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A
HANDBOOK FOR INDIA;
BEING AN ACCOUNT OF
THE THREE PRESIDENCIES,
AND OF
THE OVERLAND ROUTE;
INTENDED AS
A GUIDE FOR TRAVELLERS, OFFICERS, AND CIVILIANS,
WITH
VOCABULARIES AND DIALOGUES OF THE SPOKEN LANGUAGES OF INDIA.
WITH TRAVELLING MAP AND PLANS OF TOWNS.
PART I.–MA D R A S.
L ON DO N :
Jo H N MURRAY, ALB EMA R L E STREET.
1859.


STEPHEN AUSTIN,
PRINTER, HERTFORD,


TO
CAPTAIN WILLIAM JOSEPH EASTWIOK,
OF THE BOMBAY ARMY,
LATE DEPUTY-CHAIRMAN OF THE EAST INDIA COMPANY,
AND NOW A MEMBER OF THE COUNCIL OF INDIA,
A TRUE FRIEND OF THE NATIVES OF HINDOSTAN
AND A ZEALOUS ADVOCATE OF EVERY MEASURE CALCULATED TO
PROMOTE THEIR WELFARE,
THIS ATTEMPT TO MAKE INDIA BETTER KNOVVN TO ENGLISHMEN,
' IS AFFECTIONATELY mscnrnnn,
BY HIS BROTHER,
EDWARD B. EASTW [CK .
London, January the 20th, 1859.





PREFACE.
Ar the present moment, when India has been drawn so much
closer to England by almost continuous steam communication, by
the Electric Telegraph, and, above all, by the sympathy which even
the recent abortive effort to dissever the two countries has itself
most remarkably tended to evoke, a Handbook of India has become
an especial want.
The vast extent of that region, however, which precludes the
possibility of its being thoroughly travelled over and explored by
any one man; the dimness of its history and uncertainty of in-
formation respecting its antiquities, and the difiiculty of obtaining
satisfactory accounts of the things most worthy of inspection, render
a Handbook of India a much more arduous undertaking than the
Handbooks of most other countries. When it is considered that
the two minor Presidencies, which supply the routes for this present
volume, comprehend an extent of country equalling Spain and
Portugal, France, Belgium, Switzerland, England, Prussia, and
Bavaria, the magnitude of the task will be better appreciated, and
allowances will, it is hoped, be made for the numberless deficiencies
in its -execution.
India abounds with objects of interest. It presents every
imaginable variety of scenery, from the loftiest and most sublime
mountain ranges, to the gentle undulations and velvet swards of an
English park. Its natural products are equal, if not superior, to
those of any region in the world, and would furnish endless mate-
rials for the pen of the describer. It is rich in historical associations,
and there is scarce a hill which is not crowned with the picturesque
ruins of some old fortress, little known or altogether unvisited by
Europeans, but bound up in the native mind with many a strange


lii rnnracn.
tale and legend. In Europe the small remains of some ruined
cloister, or the mouldering walls of a solitary castle, are sought out
with eager interest; but India is a land of mined cities, and in one
of these the antiquities of a whole European province might be
collected. The ruins of Brahmanabad, the Pompeii of Sindh, extend
for twenty miles, and wherever the mattock of the excavator falls,
curious relics come to light. The deserted city of Bijapur presents
from a distance the appearance of a populous capital, and it is not
until the desolate streets are entered, that the illusion is entirely
dispelled. But Indian architecture can boast not only of what is
curious and surprising, but also of what is eminently beautiful.
The Téj excels all buildings in the world in symmetry and rich
decoration. The temples of A'bu are not to be surpassed in orna-
menture. The palace of Amber is a structure before which the
Alhambra shrinks into insignificance. It would be an error, then,
to suppose that the task of composing a Handbook for India could be
quickly or easily accomplished.
But, in addition to the vastness of the subject, there is another
formidable difficulty with which the compiler'of a Handbook for
India has to struggle. Intense heat and malaria are great opponents
to the most zealous explorer of antiquities or of the picturesque. It
happens that many of the most interesting Indian localities are
situated among thick jungles, loaded with noxious vapors, and
abounding with dangerous reptiles and wild beasts. Thus the caves
of Salsette can never be securely examined by the traveller; and no
one should explore the ruins of Mandu, unless fully equipped for a
tiger hunt. It is partly for these reasons, perhaps, that the accounts
of places furnished by Indian travellers are in general so vague and
inaccurate. Were it not for the elaborate notices of Tod, Fergusson,
and Newbold, the mere compiler would find it impossible to give an
exact description of the scenery and remarkable architectural remains
of Western and Southern India.
But although it is not pretended that the Handbook for India
in its present shape approaches the accuracy of the guidebooks to
countries which have been longer and more minutely scrutinized,
the author hopes a beginning at least has been made, and that by
the contributions and corrections of those acquainted with the
subjects treated, and especially by the aid of persons actually resi-


rnnmcn. iii
dent in India, the work now given togthe public may prove a trust-
worthy, though not altogether complete guide for travellers in Hin-
dustan. Indeed it is only fair to state that whatever there is of value
in the present pages is due to the suggestion, or research, of distin-
guished Orientalists, or those who, from their practical acquaintance
with Indian subjects, are eminently qualified to aid and advise.
The compiler of this volume, though he has himself travelled through
many parts of both Presidencics, has profited largely by the labors
of others, and tenders his most grateful thanks to Professor H. H.
Wilson; Colonel Faber, Chief Engineer at Madras; General Dickin-
son, late Chief Engineer at Bombay ;' Mr. Fergnsson, author of the
Handbook of Architecture; Major Wingate, late Superintendent of
Survey in the S. Maratha country; Mr. C. I’. Brown, of the Madras
Civil Service, author of the Telugu Dictionary and other valuable
works; Mr. Edward Thornton, and Mr. Hornidge, of the Statistical
Department at the East India House; Colonel Cotton, of the Madras
Engineers; the Rev. John Wilson, D.D., President of the Asiatic
Society of Bombay; and Mr. A. F. Bellasis, late Collector of
Ilaidarébad in Sindh. Mr. Walter Elliot, Mr. Sim, and Mr.
Chamier, of the Madras Civil Service, and Mr. Lestock Reid, of the
Civil Service of Bombay, lent their kind aid in the preparation
of the Vocabularies and Dialogues, and several other gentlemen
supplied information as to localities with which they were specially
acquainted. _
It now remains to notice briefly the plan of the work, and to
explain some things which might, at first sight, appear objection-
able. In order to make the work as useful as possible to the
servants of Government, and persons resident --in India, as well
as to the mere traveller, a greater amount of statistics, and pre-
liminary information of all kinds, has been given than is usual
in Handbooks. Many of the statistics are new, and have never
before been given to the public. Such are the names and direc-
tions of the Sub-Divisions in the diiferent Collectorates, and
their Chief Towns, and some of the Routes. To the etymology
and correct spelling of names, much attention has been given,
and owing to the almost inextricable confusion in which neglect
and indifference have involved this part of Oriental research,
the labor required here has been very considerable. This task has


iv PREFACE.
been rendered the more irksome from the conviction that, however
necessary and useful the endeavor to restore Indian names to their
original correctness may be, the attempt will be viewed with
aversion by those who, having no knowledge of Oriental languages,
are careless of the confusion and even serious mistakes arising from
the want of system in the common method of spelling. In order to
give an idea of the almost incredible absurdity, and ludicrous
inconsistency of the popular mode of spelling adopted for Indian
names, a few examples will suffice. It must be premised, however,
that the following instances are neither the most striking, nor the
most important, but simply those that come first to hand. Take,
then, as a specimen, the towns whose names are compounded with
the words Farrukh, “happy,” and Fath, “victory,” in Thornton's
Gazetteer. Farrukhnagar is the name of a district, and of a town,
which are the subjects of consecutive notices in that work. The
word is the same for both district and town; but it is spelled
Furrucknuggur for the district, and Furuknugur for the town, both
modes being wrong. In the next two notices for Fathganj we find
Futehgunge (Western), Futehgunje (Eastern), the same word spelled
in two different ways, in notices immediately following each other, and
both utterly at variance with the true Oriental name. In the next
25 notices, the word Fath is spelled in eleven different ways—Futeh,
Futh, Futhe, Futick, Futi, Futte, Futteh, Futtih, Futtoo, Futtun,
Futty,—all modes being absolutely wrong. The words, too, with
which Fath, is compounded are spelled differently in consecutive
notices. Thus Garh is spelled Ghur in one line, and Gurh in the
next. And Pür, a town, is spelled alternately Poor and Pore.
Now, let this method be applied in Indian schools for the spelling
of English names. We should then have Lancaster, or rather some
corruption of the word, for the town, and Longooster for the county,
West Riding and East Roding, York, Yark, Yirk, Yorick, and so on
for eleven varieties. The absurdity and inconvenience of such a
system is palpable. A map of France prepared for English schools
on the plan of accommodating French sounds to the English ear,
would abound with such barbarisms as would be intolerable to
every person of education and refinement. Must not then an edu.
cated native of India be disgusted with the mis-pronunciations and
mis-spellings of English writers? In the popular mode of spelling
->


PREFACE. V
Indian proper names the aspirates are continually omitted, or in-
serted where they ought not to occur; and in innumerable cases
letters are changed in a way that deprives the representative word of
all resemblance to the original. Surely the Hutnee of English maps
for Atlmt, Hungut for Hdngal, and Brooch for Bkaruch, must be very
uncouth and ridiculous to Indians, and simply unintelligible to
the lower class. Even the general English reader now smiles
at the ridiculous substitutes for Oriental names, which appear
in the writings of the first servants of the East India Gom-
pany; at Sir Roger Dowler (Siraju’d-daulah) imprisoning the
helpless English, who revenged themselves by treating his name
with a barbarity equal to his own towards themselves; or at the
ravages of the Sow Roger (Sahu Raja), and the exploits of the
valorous Bouncello (Bhonsle). But the popular mode of spelling at
present, if not quite so ridiculous, is much less consistent than that
of the old jargon, leads to the gravest errors, and can amuse no one.
But these inconsistencies assume a more serious aspect, when
We find them leading to important historical and topographical
errors. It will be necessary to instance a few of these, in order to
convince the English reader that, owing to the incorrect spelling of
Indian names, the grossest mistakes are gradually creeping into
influence.
The first instance may- be taken from an Indian city, which
has of late acquired an unhappy celebrity in this country, from
Cawnpore. Of this city, Thornton says “the importance of
this place is indeed altogether of recent date, and resulting
from its selection in A.D. 1777, as a military cantonment by the
British authorities. It does not appear to be mentioned by Baber
in his narrative of military operations in the Doab; and it is passed
over in the Ayeen Akbery. The first notice of it is perhaps that by
Renne .” This idea of the modern foundation of Cawnpore springs
partly, if not entirely, from its incorrect spelling. Cawn is the
barbarism adopted by the historian Orme for the Persian word
Klidn, “a lord,” and was contemporaneous with the equally bar-
barous chan, which was the corruption that found favor with Dow.
Cawnpore was, therefore, supposed to have been built by some
Muhammadan nobleman, and therefore to be a comparatively modern
place. But the correct spelling of the word Kanhpiir, shows that


Vi PREFACE.
it is a Hindá word, meaning “the city of Kánh,” or Krishnah. It
is, in fact, a place of primaeval antiquity, and from it the Kánhpū-
riyah Rájpúts have their title, a tribe that entered Awadh (Oudh)
many centuries ago.
By those who have not examined and compared maps of India
and the books of routes through that country, the blunders and
confusion created by incorrect spelling can hardly be imagined. In
some cases quarter-masters of regiments have been unable to
identify the name of a single place in routes furnished to them
from the Government offices, and have sent in new drafts of the
routes with the names spelled in an entirely different manner,
though the places intended were in each case the same.” The com-
piler of this Handbook, on comparing the Madras Government Route-
book with the map of the Trigonometrical Survey, was scarcely able
to trace any similarity in the names. Thus the Tâmraparni river is
called in the Route-book Tamberperny; in Thornton's Gazetteer,
Tambaravari; in Walker's map, Pambouri; and in the Trigono-
metrical map, Chindinthura. Thus, too, dr, in Tamil, signifies
“river”; but the compilers of the Route-book, ignoring that simple
fact, continually add “river” to dr, which they frequently write
aur, making it a proper name. Not content even with this, they
sometimes prefix the word nuddy, a corruption of the Sanskrit nadi,
which also means “river,” to dr. Thus the phrase occurs, “cross
the Nuddy-arriver,” equivalent to “cross the river, river, river,”
though all that is meant is, cross a stream. Giri is “a mountain,”
and Gadi, in Telugu, or Garhi, in Hindústání, is “a fort;” but
Maps and Route-books write Gherry, Ghurry, or some similar cor-
ruption, for both “fort” and “mountain.” Thus the Neilgherries
is written for Nilgiris, “blue mountains,” and Gheriah for Vijaya-
durg, simply a fort. Indifference to the meaning of names is
the prolific parent of another series of mistakes, for nearly all
Indian names of places are significant, and the etymology is
obscured and the meaning lost by their perversion. Thus
Kāghagpur, which signifies “paper-town,” and is so called on
account of a paper manufactory there, is made into Raguzpoor, which
is utterly meaningless. Kåkamári, “crow-killer,” a village so called
* See a remarkable instance in the Journal of the Bengal Asiatic Society for
1834, vol. iii., p. 285.


runner. vii
from a plant thought by the natives to be poisonous to crows, is per-
verted into 0'aa_qhmahry.* Eranaa’1.r is pronounced and written Ennore,
according to the popular English mode; but this means, “What
town? ” If an Indian peasant were asked the way to What Town,
how is it possible that he could reply satisfactorily? This case, and
the others that have been quoted, will, perhaps, be a key to the
difliculty experienced by Englishmen when travelling in India in
getting information as to places. They ask an unintelligible ques-
tion, and if they do not succeed in extracting the information they
want, too often wreak their anger on the unfortunate and bewildered
Indian. In military expeditions these mistakes have sometimes had
most serious consequences. And it was the consideration of the
necessity of furnishing the traveller with names which would be
understood by the natives that led to the adoption of the correct
mode of spelling in the present work.
In fact, notwithstanding the difliculty occasioned by the
inconsistencies of the popular spelling, it was originally intended
to adopt it, and a considerable portion of the work had already
been written according to it, but then the insuperable obstacle
that has been already noticed arose. It was found that
the natives themselves could not recognise a single word, if
spelled and pronounced according to the common method. It
was obviously a matter of imperative necessity that the traveller
should be able to make the names of places intelligible to the
natives. This could only be effected by spelling and pronouncing
the words according to the native system. Otherwise, to a native
of the Madras Presidency, Masulzpatam, Visagapatam, .’[t‘z'ph'aane,
Pondicherry, Oonjevaram, Seringapatam, and Travanoore would be
utterly unintelligible. The mention of these words would merely
elicit from a native a shake of the head, or an intimation that he
did not understand English. Whereas Machhltjoagnam, Vishdkh-
patnam, Tim vali kedi, Puda cheri, Krinekzlparam, Skrt rangapatnam,
Tirucankoalu, would be understood at once, and the direction would
be pointed out, or the traveller guided to the place. The first time
that each word occurs, however, both the popular and the correct
* For many similar perversions, see an article by Prof. H. H. Wilson on
Indian Geography, Oriental Magazine, Dec. 1824, p. 186.


viii PREFACE.
form are given, and this, it is hoped, will render the new mode less
distasteful.
In order, moreover, to save the general reader any trouble, the
popular forms of all places likely to be known to him are inserted
in the Index, as well as the correct forms. Those who desire to go
more deeply into the subject of the spelling of Oriental words, may
consult the Preface to Wilson’s Glossary of Indian Terms, Where
the whole question is fully and ably discussed. In some parts of
the work the reader will observe mention of the East India Com-
pany as still in existence, a circumstance which, when the length of
time required to print the number of pages of which the volumes
here given to the public consist, is taken into consideration, will
need no further explanation. Part of the work was already in type
when the recent change in the administration of India took place.
In conclusion, the compiler desires to invite corrections for the
numerous mistakes into which he is conscious of having fallen;
and notices derived from personal observation of the many in-
teresting localities, the description of which has been omitted, are
solicited from all travellers who may use these volumes. It will
be seen that the work has been .construeted on such a plan as to
admit of the_ insertion of a number of Routes, so that expansion
will be easy. The work thus completed might not, indeed, contain
all, or even the greater part of the objects of interest to be found
in India, but it would, at least, furnish as much as any traveller
would have time to inspect. '
Lonnon,
January the 20171, 1859.


CONTENTS.




INTRODUCTION.
PAGE
Information which may be of use before leaving England .................. .. ix
Overland Journey ......................... ........................................ .. xxiii
Chronological Tables and History . . . . . .. liii
Feasts, Ceremonies, Sects, Dress, and Manners of the Natives ............. .. lxxxi
Weights and Measures ............................................................. .. c
-European Services, Funds and Pensions ..................................... .. civ
Pay and Allowances ................................................................ .. cix
Indian Words used in the Book ................................................. .. cxvii
Abbreviations .......................................................... . . . ........... . . cxx
SECT. I.—MADRAS.
Preliminary Information .................................... ......L ............... .. 1
Preliminary Information—-Centre Division . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 14
Routes ...................................................... .................. .. 19
SECT. II.—MADRAS.
Preliminary Information—Northcrn Division ............................... .. 57
Routes .......................................................... ................ .. 62
Preliminary In.formation—I;Iaidarabad ............... ... ...... ... ............. .. 72
Routes ......................................................... ..... .............. .. 80
Preliminary Information—Nagpur ..................... ............. .. 108
Routes ......................................................... ... ...................... .. 112
Preliminary Information—Ceded Districts ........... ...-. ..................... .. 117
Routes ....................................................... ........................ .. 122
Preliminary Information—Southern Division ........ ....................... .. 134
Routes .................................................................................. .. 145
SECT. III.-MADRAS.
Preliminary Information—Maisnr (Mysore) Division ...... ... ,,,,,,,,,,,,, ,, 201
Routes ........................................................................... ... .... .. 209
\
I
2





INTRODUCTION.
SEAsoN FoR VISITING INDIA—HINTS REGARDING HEALTH, DIET, AND
CoMFORT—OUTFIT-ExPENSES-LISTS OF Books on INDIA WHICH
TRAVELLERS MAY PERUSE PREVIOUs To STARTING – OvKRLAND
JoURNEY — BRIEF GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF INDIA-
CHRONoLoGICAL TABLES-FEASTs, CEREMONIES, SECTS, DRESS,
AND MANNERS OF THE NATIVEs—INDIAN SERVANTs—WEIGHTS
AND MEASUREs—EUROPEAN SERVICEs—FUNDS AND PENSIONS-
Voca BULARIES AND DIALOGUES.
SEASON FOR VISITING INDIA.
THE most unhealthy season in India is that of the Rains, or from
the beginning of July to the end of October. It is also the most
trying to the constitution of a person fresh from Europe, and unused
to tropical heat. The following account of the climate of India at
this season of the year, extracted from Dr. James Ranald Martin’s
excellent work on “The Influence of Tropical Climates on European
Constitutions,”* will suffice to shew the traveller that he must select
any time but the Rains for the period of his arrival in Hindústán:—
“From the 15th of July to the 15th of October, and as the rains
advance, we live in an atmosphere having all the properties of a
tainted vapour-bath; and, when the wind comes sifting through the
Sunderbunds at south-east, we experience many of the inconve-
niencies ascribed by Hennen to the sirocco of the Mediterranean,
which, “without affecting the thermometer or barometer in any
remarkable degree, yet inflicts on the delicately sensitive human
frame a feeling of indescribable languor and oppression, with an
exhausting perspiration, much like that we suffer from in Bengal
during the latter portion of the rainy season, and which a West
• The Influence of Tropical Climates on European constitutions, including Practical
observations on the nature and treatment of the diseases of Europeans on their return
from tropical climates. By James Ranald Martin, F.R.S. London, John Churchill, New
furlington Street, 1856. This work is an invaluable vade mecum for the traveller on all
matters conneeted with health. b


X SEASON FOR VISITING INDIA-
Indian lady, speaking of the sirocco, described as giving ‘the feel
as if she had ‘been bathing in a boiler of syrup.’ This is the moist
sirocco of Bengal. The mind, too, seems to partake in the general
relaxation, being unfitted for vigorous or sustained effort; in short,
we here perceive the oapipleniam, languor at expletio, remarked by
Petronius amongst the luxurious and dissolute Romans of his time.
The muscular system and that of the heart are relaxed and Weak-
ened, and after a time they become irritable and very defective in
tone. These circumstances, together with the influences of malaria
on the nervous system, appear to me to occasion the intermitting
pulse so common to the old Indians. At this season, through the
saturation of the atmosphere, the perspiration by evaporation is
suppressed, but that by transudation is enormously increased, thus
rendering the system susceptible of the least impression from cold
or malarious exhalation, with a strong tendency to congestion in the
abdominal vessels, while at the same time absorption is increased,
and all the excretions diminished. The excessive watery discharge
from the skin during this season must also, and of necessity, have
the effect of rendering the venous blood unnaturally dense, and thus
cause the European to be more liable to congestive forms of disease.
Dr. J. B. Williams refers the disposition to liver complaints, dysen-
tery, and cholera, to the stimulating properties of the blood, deprived,
as we have seen, of more than usual of its water and less of its
hydro-carbon. Such is the rainy season, and such are some of the
reasons for its proverbial unhealthiness in all tropical climates.
If it be true that an individual in health ought to be in that state of
perspiration in which it is insensible, what are we to think of the
exhausting drain flowing from the pores of an European during this
and the preceding season, though differing in their modes of action?”
It may be laid down, therefore, as a rule that the traveller
should leave Europe at such a time as will enable him to avoid
being in India during the rains altogether, or, at least, to escape
passing that season in the steaming atmosphere of the low countries.
In Sindh and the Panjab, indeed, or in the N.W. provinces, he will
be better ofi' during the rainy season, so that, if he decide to stop in
India, he may frame his route so as to be in those parts at that
period of the year. All persons who visit India, then, and have the
option of the time at which they will leave Europe, should start at
the beginning of October, so as to land in India on or about the 1st
of November. Proceeding upward from the Presidency, whether
Calcutta, Madras, or Bombay, they may pass four or even five months
in the low country, reach the hills by March or April, pass one or
two months there, and descend, so as to reach Bombay, which we
,will assume to be the point from which they will return to Europe,
in May: or, if they will pass a whole year in India, in November.


HINTS REGARDING HEALTH, ETC. X1
HEALTH AND COMFORT.
The following remarks on Tropical Hygiene are condensed from
Dr. Martin’s book, “ The Influence of Zroptoal Climates” :—
The Prevention of Dtsease.—The proper selection of localities for residence;
the avoidance of exposure to heat by day, and to dews and chills at night ; care in
diet, clothing, and exercise are far more essential for the preservation of health in
India, as elsewhere, than medical treatment. Self-quackery with calomel and other
mercurial preparations is sure to destroy the most robust constitution, and many
lives have been lost by the use of saline purgatives during seasons of cholera.
The real way to escape disease is to observe strict temperance, and to moderate
heat by all possible means, habituating the body from the beginning to the im-
pressions of cold, for from heat arises the predisposition to receive and develop the
seeds of disease, and after heat has thus morbifically redisposed the body, the sudden
influence of colel has the most baneful effect upon t e frame.
Dress.~—When Europeans enter the tropics they must bid adieu to the luxury
of linen—if what is uncomfortable, and, indeed, unsafe in those climates, can be
styled a luxury. The natives, from the lowest to the highest, wear nothing but
cotton. The cotton dress, from its slowness in conducting heat, is admirably
adapted for the tropics. It must be recollected that the temperature of the
atmosphere, sub die, in the hot seasons exceeds that of the blood by many degrees,
and even in the shade it too often equals, or rises above the heat of the body’s
surface, which is always, during health, some degrees below 97°. Ootton, then, is
cooler than linen, as a slower conductor of the excess of external heat to our
bodies. Moreover, when the atmospheric temperature suddenly sinks far below
that of the body, cotton causes the heat to be abstracted more slowly, and thus
preserves to the wearer a tgrcater equilibrium of warmth. Further, cotton absorbs
perspiration with greater acility than linen, and will maintain an equable warmth
under a breeze where a dangerous shiver would be induced by wearing linen.
Woollen and cotton dresses are actually cooler in high temperatures than linen,
as may be readily proved by placing two beds in the same room when the ther-
mometer stands at 90°, and covering one with a pair of blankets the other with a
pair of linen sheets. On removing both coverings in the evening, the bed on
which the blankets were laced will be found cool, the other warm; this arises
from the woollen covering eing a non-conductor,while the linen transmits the heat.
In particular places, where the mercury takes a wide range in a very short
time, flannel is a safer covering than cotton, but, in general, it is a less desirable
covering. It is, in the first lace, too heavy; secondly, where the temperature
ranges steadily a little below t at of the skin, the flannel is too slow a conductor
of heat from the body; thirdly, the spicules of the flannel prove too irritating,
and increase the action of the perspiratory vessels, while t e great object is to
moderate the process. A too frequent change of body linen is injurious, especially
to newly arrived Europeans, as it stimulates the cuticular discharge too much.
To change morning. and evening is enough, even in the hot and rainy seasons;
and to change oftener is simply in_]urious.
E:vposnre.—No European should voluntarily expose himself at any season to
the direct rays of the sun. If forced to be out of doors, the chha'ta' or large
umbrella should never be neglected, if he wish to avoid coup de soleil or other
dangerous consequences. The ample turbans of the natives are a great defence
against the sun; and where an umbrella cannot be conveniently used, muslin
twisted many times round an English 'ockey cap, with a white covering stuffed
with cotton, such as worn by Sir C. apier in a well-known print, is the best
protection. Similarly, the thick /carnarbanda or waist-cloths of the natives pro-
tect the important viscera of the abdomen from the in_]ur1ous ctfeets of cold.


xii HINTS REGARDING HEALTH, ETC.
Food.—There are no points of hygiene to which the attention of a new comer
should be more '' directed than to moderation and simplicity in his diet.
A congestive, and sometimes inflammatory diathesis, with a tendency to general
or local plethora, characterises the European and his diseases, for some years at
least, after his arrival between the tropics; and hence nature endeavours to guard
against the evil by diminishing the relish for food. The new comer, therefore,
should avoid the dangerous stimulants of wine and liquors, as well as condiments
and spices, which should be reserved for that general relaxation and debility which
are sure to supervene during a protracted residence in tropical climates. A vege-
table diet is, generally speaking, better adapted for a tropical climate than animal
food, £ in the case of the unseasoned European; not that it is quicker or
easier of digestion, for it is slower, but it excites less commotion in the system
during the digestive process, and is not apt to induce plethora afterwards.
The febrile stricture, which obtains on the surface of our bodies, and in the
secerning vessels of the liver, during the gastric digestion of the food, as evinced
by diminution of the cutaneous and hepatic secretions, is proportioned to the dura-
tion and difficulty of that process in the stomach, and to the quantity of ingesta;
and as a corresponding increase of the two secretions £ when the chyme
passes into the intestines, the necessity of moderating them by abstemiousness is
easily perceived, since they are already in excess from the heat of the climate alone,
and this excess is one of the first #: in the chain of causes and effects that
ultimately leads to various derangements of important organs, as exemplified in
the fevers and dysenteries, in the hepatitis and cholera of tropical regions. The
newly-arrived European should content himself with a plain breakfast of bread
and butter, with tea or coffee, and avoid indulging in meat, fish, or eggs, or
buttered toast. The butter alone often disagrees, and occasions rancidity, with
nausea, while it increases the secretion of bile, already in excess. The dirty habits
of the native cooks, who may be often seen buttering the toast with the greasy
wing of a fowl or an old dirty piece of rag, will perhaps be of more avail than
£ial caution in inducing Europeans to give up this injurious article of
OOC1.
He who wishes for health in the East must beware of late and heavy dinners,
particularly on his first arrival, and must be satisfied with a light and early repast
as the principal meal, when tea or coffee at six or seven o'clock will be found a
grateful refreshment. After this his rest will be as natural and refreshing as can
be expected in such a climate, and he will rise next morning infinitely more re-
freshed than if he had partaken of a heavy repast at a late hour.
Fruits.—A limited indulgence in fruits, during the first year, is prudent; and
there is little reason to believe that when ripe # eaten in the forenoon fruit has
the effect of irritating the bowels. Particular kinds of fruit have peculiar effects
on certain constitutions; thus mangoes have sometimes a stimulating and heating
effect, which often brings out pustules or even boils, on the unseasoned European.
The pine apple, though very delicious, is not a safe fruit at any time. The orange
is always grateful £ wholesome, as is the shaddock, owing to its cooling subacid
qualities. The banana is wholesome and nutritious, whether undressed or cooked.
Drink.—The great physiological rule for preserving health in hot climates is
to keep the body cool. Common sense points out the propriety of avoiding heating
drinks, for the same reason that leads us instinctively to guard against a high
external temperature. During the first two years, at least, of residence, the nearer
the approach made to a perfectly aqueous regimen in drink, the better the chance
of avoiding sickness. Nothing is more salutary during the hot winds than iced
beverages; they revive the spirits, strengthen £ ": and assist the digestion.
Ice is invaluable, as well in sickness as in health. oderately acid drinks, such
as sharbat, are wholesome. Nature seems to point out the vegetable acids in hot
climates, as grateful in allaying thirst and diffusing a coolness from the stomach all


HINTS REGARDING HEALTH, ETC. X111
over the body. The prophylactic influence of spirits and tobacco against night
exposure, malaria and contagion, appears to be a delusive doctrine.
E:verci.s~e.—The perspiration, biliary and other secretions, being already iii
excess in equatorial regions, a perseverance in the customary European exercises
would prove highly inyurious, by promoting and aggravating the ill eifects of an
unnatural climate. Such excess very soon leads to debility, and to diminishing
action in the functions alluded to, and to a corresponding inequilibrium of the
blood. It is only at particular periods of the day or year that such active or
passive exercise as the climate admits should be taken. VVlien the sun is near
the meridian all nature is torpid, and seems to suggest inactivity to man. The
natives, though fitted by nature to bear the climate, take more care to moderate
the effects of heat than Europeans, especially in light clothing, abstemious food,
and tranquil habits. Gestation of every kind, whether in palkis or spring carriages,
is a species of passive exercise exceedingly well adapted to a tropical climate.
The languid state of the circulation of the lilood in old Indians is pointedly shewn
in the disposition to raise the lower extremities on a line with the body when at
rest; and this object is completely attained in the palki, which, indeed, renders it
a peculiarly agreeable vehicle. On the same principle may be explained the plea-
surable feeling and utility of shzzmpooing, where the gentle pressure and friction of
the soft Asiatic hand over the surface of the body, but particularly over the limbs,
invigorate the circulation after fatigue, as well as after long inaction, and excite the
inert cuticular secretion. The kzsa or hair-_r/lore of India 1S an admirable means
_ of giving additional effect to shampooing, a ractice which to the indolent wealthy
natives is a real and effective substitute or exercise. The swing is much used
by the natives, and in the hot and rainy season might be practised in the early
mornings and evenings within doors when the weather did not admit of estation
in the open air. In chronic disorders of the viscera, it could hardly ail to be
grateful and salutary by its tendency to determine to the surface and relax the
sub-cutaneous vessels, which are generally torpid in these diseases.
.Bm,‘hin_q.—-The cold bath is death, not during intemperance, but in the collapse
which follows a debauch, or indeed any other great fatigue of body or mind. It is
also dangerous under every form of visceral disease; but the healthy and temperate
may safely partake of it. The truth is the cold bath is a prize due to, and gained
by, the temperate ; to all else it is eminently unsafe. The healthy and temperate
should regularly and daily persevere in the use of the cold bath from the moment
they enter within the tropics; and when, from long residence there, the functions
begin to be irregular, or defective, they may prudently change by degrees to the
tepid bath, which then becomes a most valuable part of tropical hygiene. The
cold bath may be used at any hour of the day, though the morning and evening
are generally selected by Europeans in the East, immediately after leaving their
couch and before dinner. At both these times the bath is ve refreshing, and
powerfully obviates that train of nervous symptoms so generally elt by Europeans
in hot climates. Before dinner it seems to exert its salutary influence on the
surface of the body, and, by sympathy, on the stomach, removing the sensation of
thirst, which might otherwise induce too free potations at dinner. It is always
imprudent to bathe while the process of digestion in the stomach is going on, as it
disturbs that important operation. To persons of ordinary health, but who are
not robust, the cold bath will be found tonic and agreeable in India, from the
beginning of March to the end of September. The temperature ranges high in
these months, and the determination to the surface is such as to ensure a suflicient
reaction. It is a common error to think that it is requisite to be cool before using
the cold bath, whereas the reverse is the case. To the delicate, indeed, immersion
in a Warm bath for a few minutes is an excellent preliminary, followed at once by
the aifusion of some three or four vessels of cold water. A glow over the whole
surface of the body will immediately follow. This is a safe and excellent mode of


xiv. HINTS REGARDING HEALTH, ETC.
bathing to all who shrink from the use of cold water, or feel doubtful of salutary
reaction after it. The following is the scale of temperature of the several baths in
ordinary use:—Cold bath, from 60° to 75°; tepid, 85° to 92°; warm, 92° to 98°;
hot, 98° to 112°.
Sleep.—Whatever we detract from the requisite period of our natural sleep
will surely be deducted, in the end, from the natural range of our existence.
Notwithstanding the silence of authors on the subject, the disturbed repose
experienced in tropical climates has a great and prejudicial effect on the European
constitution. The great object of the European is to sleep cool, and obtain com-
plete protection from mosquitoes. Both these objects may be secured by the large
mosquito frame and curtain, with the pankhd suspended from the ridge, as gene-
rally used throughout Bengal. Early hours are here indispensable. The order of
nature is never inverted with impunity, even in the most temperate climates;
beneath the torrid zone it is certain destruction. The hour of retirement should
never be protracted beyond ten o'clock; and at daylight we should start from our
couch to enjoy the cool and salubrious breath of morn. In Bengal Proper, in the
plains of Upper India, and on the Coromandel coast, except during the hot land
winds, or at the change of the monsoons, Europeans may generally sleep during
the hot and dry season in the open verandah, not only with : but with
advantage. Scruple doses of carbonate of soda in aromatic water at bedtime, or
night and morning, will remove nightmare and promote digestion.
Moral Conduct.–In the tropics, licentious indulgence is far more dangerous
and destructive than in Europe.
Cholera.—The attacks of this terrible disease may in general be traced to some
imprudence, as eating unripe fruit, oysters, or other indigestible food; intem-
perance; drinking cold liquid, or anything that suddenly chills the body when
overheated; exposure to cold night air. Among the natives the most common
causes are drinking unwholesome water, sleeping on the damp ground, or in the
open air during unhealthy seasons. The safest remedies appear to be the applica-
tion of mustard plasters, particularly to the abdomen, or the warm bath, draughts
of warm water, after which 80 drops of laudanum, 6 drops of oil of peppermint, or
20 drops of essence of peppermint, and 20 grains of calomel, should be taken. To
allay the burning thirst, warm kanji or rice water, with plenty of table salt, may
be given, or pieces of ice may be allowed gradually to melt in the mouth. After the
first attack is over, if there be much irritability remaining, the dose of 20 grains of
calomel must be repeated. Afterwards the bowels must be kept open with calomel
and jalap. For a child of from 1% to 2 years old 12 grains of calomel, 8 drops of
laudanum, 2 drops of oil of peppermint, may be given on the instant of attack.
The hands and feet must be put into water as hot as the child can bear until the
disease is subdued. After a lapse of eight hours from complete relief, a dose of
castor oil must be ad: Great attention must be paid to the size of the
drops of laudanum. They must be dropped from a 2 oz. phial. To natives who
are not of a plethoric habit, the following pills may be given:—Astringent pills on
the first attack. Calomel, 5 grains; assafetida, 2 grains; black pepper, 2 grains;
opium, 2 grains; camphor, 3 grains; to be mixed and divided into three pills,
which, if rejected, must be re-administered. Three hours after these pills, if the
symptoms have stopped, mix the following into three pills:—Calomel, 5 grains;
extract of colocynth, 12 grains; extract of tartar emetic, # grain. The cholera
pills are an excellent purgative in general for bowel complaints. -
Medicine Chest.—The following medicines and articles may be taken on a
journey into places where medical aid is not obtainable:-Cholera pills, calomel,
eau de luce, ipecacuanha, laudanum, magnesia, oil of peppermint, quinine, rhubarb,
adhesive plaster, blistering plaster, gold beater's skin, lint, sponge, scales and
weights, cautery, lancet, teaspoon, scissors.
Snake Bites.—The following appears to be the best treatment for snake-bites.


HINTS REGARDING HEALTH, ETC. XV
A ligature should be instantaneously fixed round the limb affected some distance
from the wound to prevent absorption. If the wound be in a fleshy part, the
ragged edges must be cutout, making the incision elliptical. The wound must
then be sucked with a cupping glass, or with the mouth. If stupor, fainting, or
sinking of the pulse supervenc, administer brandy one oz., laudanum one drachm,
in warm water, with sugar and peppermint water. The patient must be kept
walking about, or the throat, chest, and extremities may be rubbed with laudanum,
ammonia, and ether. Dram doses of ammonia, or eau do lucc, mixed with water,
and repeated every ten or twenty minutes, according to the urgency of the symp-
toms, have also been tried with success. But scarification, or excision and cau-
terization are the only sure means of escaping death in the case of being bitten by
the most poisonous snakes as the cobra and black kcrite.
The following suggestions,* which were approved by Sir Colin
Campbell, for the use of oflicers who have had no Indian experience,
will be found instructive for all travellers in India :-
Mnncrmm.
\Vhen practicable, the best time for marching is undoubtedly in the early
morning. The march should be finished by two hours after sunrise. The per-
nicious custom of serving out a dram on the line of march sows the seeds of
disease, and should be avoided; but, as it is injurious to undergo fatigue after a
night's rest upon an empty stomach, food of some kind should be given to the
soldiers either before starting or at the first halt—tea, coffee, chocolate, or milk,
with bread, biscuits, or chapdtis.
In warm weather every precaution should be adopted to enable the Euro ean
to stand fatigue, and to prevent heating of the blood. The neck should be are,
to allow of the free return of blood from the head. A flannel roller round the
bell and loins is all the woollen material required.
n cold weather a flannel shirt, cloth coat, etc., should be worn, in accordance
with the temperature.
Every soldier should be strongl impressed with the danger of exposing the
head, uncovered, to the direct rays o the sun. A light, cool, and comfortable cap,
which at the same time allows of evaporation from the surface of the head and
shades the eyes, temples, and back of the neck, should be provided.
The men should be instructed never to throw this ofl', under an circumstances;
and they should be told, on the first symptoms of giddiness, flus ing of the face,
fulness of blood in the head, or dimness of vision, to pour cold water over the
head, and to keep it wet (with the cap on) for some hours. Strict adherence to
these instructions would prevent the large majority of eases of coup zle aoleil.
No soldier should be allowed to remain in wet clothes longer than can be
avoided. \Vhile in exercise no danger results; but, from lying down in damp
clothes, fever, dysentery, or disease 0 the liver inevitably ensue.
When in tents, the lrandts-f on the shady side should be thrown down, and
the air be allowed to circulate freely. At night, unless the weather is very
cold, the Zcanrits on two sides of every tent should be removed. Protection from
dew and rain is all that is required. More harm is caused by the respiration of
contaminated, close, and impure air than is ever brought about by exposure to
the night wind.
Dry straw, grass, karbi the stalk of jodr, a kind of Indian corn), or any of the
stalks used in thatching, ma e excellent bedding, when covered with blankets.
Bxrnmo.
The urgent necessity of keeping the pores of the skin open in a hot climate is
* By James Harrison. M.D. Surgeon, Hon. Company's Service.
1' Kan Ia, walls of a tent.


XVI HINTS REGARDING HEALTH, ETC.
only recognized by officers in reference to themselves ; its paramount importance
is not impressed u on the men. Soldiers should be made to bathe at least three
times a week in col)d water. This o eration should always be performed upon an
empty stomach, and the morning befbre breakfast is the best time.
It is not safe to bathe when the body is much heated, if, at the same time, it
is fatigued. Hence, on the march, the evening, about four hours after dinner,
would he an appro riate time.
The skin shoul be thoroughly dried and rubbed.
Water can generally be procured from some stream or tank; if these are not
convenient, the wells will always furnish abundance.
FOOD.
Experience proves that the same amount of animal food is not required in a
hot climate to preserve health and strength as in a. cold one. A large amount of
animal food, instead of giving strength, heats the blood, renders the system
feverish, and consequently weakens the whole bodv.
The Itajpfits of Raj fitana, and the Sikhs of the Punjab, are physically as
stron as Europeans, an they are capable of enduring more fatigue, and with-
standing better the vicissitudes of the climate of India. This is due, partly to
race, but chiefly to the nature of their food, of which the staple is Wheaten flour,
made into ckapdtia. They eat but twice a day; and, although they partake of
animal food, they do so in very much less proportion than is the habit in Europe.
llermetically sealed, preserved, or salted rovisions are noxious, if partaken of
for a prolonged period, or to the exclusion o fresh food.
Bread, when tolerably well made, is, of course, one of the best articles of diet.
Biscuits are not so digestible, but they have the advantage of bein easily carried,
and of being always ready. In the absence of these, flour (ant) can always be
procured, and cluzpzitis (a thin unleavened cake) are easily made, are highly
nutritious, and are perfectly digestible when eaten fresh and hot. When cold
and tough they are unwholesome. Oltapritis can be baked in any quantity on
iron plates made for the purpose, and every European should learn (which he can
easily do from any native) how to knead and rcpare them. Flour can be got
from every village, and with it no European etachment need ever be without
“ the staff of life.”
Rice and dd! (pulse or vctches, especially when split), can also be had an -
where. These, boiled separately, and afterwards mixed together, make, with t c
addition of salt and pepper, a wholesome and nutritious food, well suited for
breakfast.
Beef is the meat usually furnished to regiments. The lean commissariat kine
do not promise much, but it is difficult to procure other meat in suflicient quantity.
Slow boiling for two hours will make an meat tender, and the water in which it
is boiled makes excellent soup. The a dition of whatever vegetables are to be
had, of a few slices of salted pork or bacon, two or three handfuls of flour, some
onions, and salt, and pepper, makes a savoury mess. Rice, boiled in a separate
vessel, and afterwards Il1lX0(l up with the soup, meat, etc., adds to the quantity
and quality of the meal, which is wholesome, nutritious, and palatable.
Mutton and fowls may occasionally be had as a change; and, in the neigh-
bourhood of large rivers, fish makes a useful variety, and can usually be had in
abundance.
Milk is an invaluable article of diet, and should be largely supplied to soldiers.
Vegetables arc essential to the preservation of health. Opportunities for pro-
curing them in quantity present themselves much oftener on the line of march
than 1S generally supposed.
In cold weather inquiry will prove that in the neighbourhood of nearly every
halting place there are fields o '
vegetables, such as baigam (aolanum melagena), aaiy (greens), etc.
carrots, turnips, onions, and of many native


oorrir AND EXPENSES. xvii
Fruit, when sound and ripe, is beneficial instead of hurtful. Unripe or over-
ripe fruit will roduce disease. The water-melon and guava are, however,
indigestible. he oranges, strawberries, custard-apples, loqiiiit, musk-melons,
pineapples, grapes, and lichis can be partaken of with advantage.
STIMULANTS.
The same amount of spirit undiluted is much more injurious than when mixed
with water.
Great attention should be paid to the time of serving out the drams. They
should never be given on an empty stomach, when the system is heated, or when
exposed to the sun. To give men raw spirit early in the morning, before an
food is taken, is the surest way to lay the foundation of disease. After a mea ,
with some hours of rest in the shade in prospect, is the best period.
Oflicers on coming to India for the first time find themselves surrounded by
entirely new influences. The diseases of the country are formidable and rapid in
their progress, and inspire in many cases a vague terror, which prevents the due
exercise of the reasoning owers. The climate is found to be exhausting and
debilitating; exposure to t e sun is understood to be dangerous; and there arc
many other circumstances which combine to depress the mind and bod , and to
pre-dispose to the belief that some extraordinary course must be pursue to ward
ofi’ any evil consequence.
Recourse is had in too many cases to stimulants; brandy is taken in largo
quantities to prevent the approach of sickness; exercise and the ordinary methods
adopted in other countries to keep the frame sound and vigorous are neglected.
Many become the victims of their own imprudcnce and rashness, and their prema-
ture death is erroneously ascribed to the effect of the Indian climate.
With ordinary precaution and attention to the common laws of hygiene
Europeans may hve as long and preserve their health as well in India as in
Britain.
The neglect of these precautions rapidly produces fatal results. The mortality
from disease far exceeds that caused by the enemy, and it behoves every officer
to study carefully the means of preventing sickness.
OUTFIT AND EXPENSES.
As there are very good tailors in India at the chief towns, the
traveller need not burthen himself with an over large supply of
articles of dress. A few hints on matters which may appear trifling
but are nevertheless important as regards comfort, may be here given.
Instead of buttons, studs and wrist-links should be used. The clhobia,
or_Indian washermen, clean the clothes by beating them on stones
in the river. By this process, buttons are inevitably smashed, and
tear the clothes at the same time. The buckles of braces should be
of silver, as steel rusts. White and black silk gloves are the best for
India, as leather is too hot. Ladies’ gloves should all be tried on
previous to starting, so as to take the form of the hand, otherwise
they shrink, and are not serviceable. A good English jockey cap is
indispensable for a gentleman ; and neither ladies nor gentlemen
should fail to take with them a veil or two for crossing the desert,
and as a protection against the sand storms in Sindh and elsewhere.
A pair of spectacles, with a few extra glasses of neutral tint, will save
the eyes. Antimony applied to the eye with the common Indian salid,
or anointing needle, is an admirable preservative for weak eyes.


xviii
OUTFIT AND EXPENSES.
The following tables will show all that is required as to outfit:
Estimate of Oulfils for the East India Company/‘s Service (Overland).


ryrnonm AND .
ror,\'T.
-:.\'Ts. Artillery. Engineers. Infantry. £ 0. d. £ .9. cl. £ s d. £ .9. d.
Full Dress Tunic .... . ....... .. 8 8 0 8 8 0 9 9 0 9 9 0
,, Busby and Plume ....... .. 7 7 0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..
,, Cooked Hat and Plumc.. 5 5 0 4 12 6
,, Chaco, complete . . . . . . . . . . . .... .. 4 4 0 .... ..
,, Trowsers 5 5 0 5 5 0 2 5 0 2 5 0
,, Sword Knot . 0 18 6 0 18 6 0 L8 6 0 18 6
,, Sword Belt ............. .. 5 5 O 5 5 0 2 15 0 2 15 0
,, Pouch Belt and Pouch... 8 8 0 5 15 6 . . . . . . . . . . ..
,, Shoulder Sash . . . . . - . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 3 10 0 .... ..
,, Sword ......... .. .. 4 4 0 6 6 0 4 4 0 4 4 0
,, Spurs .... .. . 0 18 6 0 18 6 0 18 6
Undrcss Frock Coat . 8 8 0 9 9 0 5 15 6 5 15 6
,, Jacket .... .. . 6 6 0 6 6 0 4 4 O 4 4 0
,, Forage Cap 1 16 0 1 16 O 1 8 0 1 8 0
,, Trowsers...... .. 2 8 0 2 8 0 2 5 0 2 5 0
,, gword B391; 2 2 0 .... .. 2 10 0 2 10 O
, ouch, et an wor
, Belt, and Sketching Case..i 2 15 0 5 5 O ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ‘ ' ‘ "
,, Sword Knot . 0 5 6 .... .. 0 5 6 0 5 6
,, Great Coat Cloak .. . 7 7 0 7 7 0 6 6 0 6 0 0
72 1 6 69 14 0 50 18 0 47 10 6
CAVALRY.
Bengal Madras. Bombay.
FullDress.Tackct ...... .......... .. 26 5 0 28 0 0 30 0 0
,, Trowsers .... .. . 5 15 6 5 15 6 5 15 6
,, Busby and Plume . . 11 11 0 . . . . . . . . . . ..
,, Chaco and Plume .... .. 14 14 0 .... ..
,, Helmet and Plume . . . . . . . . . . .. 16 16 0
,, garrcled Sashs ................... .. 7 7 0 8 8 0 8 8 0
, word Belt, abretashe and
’ Belt, Silver Pouch Belt .... ..l 28 1° ° 28 1° ° 28 1° °
,, Sabre .......... .......... .. 4 4 0 4 4 0 4 4 0
,, Sword Knot . 1 5 0 1 1 0 1 10 0
,, Spurs ........ .. 0 15 6 01s 6 0 18 6
Un ess Jacket . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 7 7 0 7 7 0 7 7 0
Cord for ditto . 0 10 6 1 5 0 1 10 0
,, Trowsers 2 l2 6 2 12 6 2 12 6
,, Frock Coat . . . . . . . . . . .. 10 10 0 . . . . . . . . . . ..
,, Mess Waistcoat . 5 15 6 6 16 6 ,, Belts. .......... .. 4 14 6 14 14 0 5 5 0
,, Sabre ...... .. 4 4 0 4 4 0 4 4 0
,, Sword Knot .... 0 5 6 0 15 6 O 5 6
,, Forage Cap.... .. .. 2 12 6 2 12 e 2 12 6
,, Spurs ........................... .. 015 6 0 15 e 015 e_
125 0 6 132 13 6 120 14 O


Ot/TFIT AND EXPENSES.
xi
X
Personal Clothing for all Officers, Civilians, and Travellers.
12 Long Cloth Shirts, Linen fronts, etc., at 6s. ...........................
24 ** Calico fronts, etc., at 4s.
12 Linen Shirt Collars, at 10d. ........................
6 Elastic Gauze Waistcoats, at 6s. 6d.
12 Pairs Cotton Long Drawers, at 3s.6d......
24 White Cambric Pocket Handkerchiefs, at
1 Black Silk Stock, long ends ...................
36 Pairs Brown Cotton half Hose, at 1s. .....
2 ” Dogskin Gloves, at 2s. .................
2 , Elastic Cotton Braces, at 1s. 6d. .....
12 Huckaback Towels, at 10d. .................
1 Voyage Suit of Tweed ..........
1 ” Cap.............
1 Sponge and Bag ...
12
5
1 Foul Clothes' Bag .................... • • • • •- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 6
1 Brush Case, containing Clothes, Hat, and Shoe Brush 18
2 Hair Brushes, at 4s. .................... • * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * • * * * * 8
1 Dressing Comb ..... - - - - - 1
3 Tooth Brushes, at 9d........ 2
2 Overland Trunks, at 36s. .... 12
1 Pair Boots, with box heels.... 14
1 , , dress................... 10
2 ,, Walking Shoes, at 18s...... 16
6 , Drill Trowsers, at 18s. . 8
6 White Jean Jackets, at 15s. .... 10
6 ** Waistcoats, at 10s. ...... - • • • 0
3 Pairs Mili Gloves, at 4s. 6d. ... • • - - - - - 13
3 Military Stocks, at 4s. 6d................ • * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * • - - - - - - - - - 13
345 18
Saddlery—
1 case of Saddlery, complete ................................................... 8 8
48.54 7 3
Outfit—Indian Navy (Overland).
uMIFORM AND APPOINTMENTS,
36 s. d. £ s. d.
Full Dress Uniform Coat...... 5 5 0 | Undress Uniform Mercella
** Trowers ............ 1 16 0 Waistcoat ...... 0 16 0
* Cocked Hat......... 2 18 0 ?? Sword ............ 3 3 0
** Belt........ •- . 1 5 0 ** Sword Knot 0 15 6
Undress Uniform Cap . 1 10 0 ?? Jacket ............ 2 10 0
** Trowsers............ 1 14 0 -
** Cashmere Waistcoat 18 0 38 22 10 6
Personal Clothing the same as for the Military.
Civilian's Outfit (Overland).
Cloth Clothing the same as worn in England, but of lighter material (ladies'
cloth). -
Personal Clothing the same as for the Military.


XX
OUTFIT AND EXPENSES.
12
24
12
6
6
2
4
12
24
12
24
12
36
12
36
12
24
1
Ship's Sofa, with Hair Mattress and Pillows...
Cane Swing Sofa, suitable either as Cot or Sofa,
Double Sofa, with Mattress, Pillows, etc. .
Chintz Cover for Sofa .
Swinging Cot ...............
Hair Mattress and Pillows ... -
Feather Pillows.......................................
A Lady's Outfit for India (Overland).
Calico Chemises, at 3s.6d...................................................
Cambric Chemises, at 4s. 6d. .............
Cambric or Long Cloth Slips, at 7s.6d.
Middle Petticoats, at 3s. 9d. .............
Corded Petticoats, at 6s. 6.
Corsets, at 6s 6d. ..............
Flannel Petticoats, at 10s. 6d. ............................
India Gauze or Fine Flannel Waistcoats, at 5s. 6d.
Cambric Trowsers (plain), at 3s.6d.......................
Cambric Trowsers (trimmed), at 5s. 6d
Calico Night Dresses, at 4s. 6d...........
Night Caps (common), at 3s.6d. ..... -
Mosquito Trowsers for sleeping, at 3s.6d. ...
Flannel Dressing Gown (w # -
Coloured Flannel Dressing Gown
White Muslin Dressing Gown .......
Coloured Dressing Gown ..... ..
Morning Robe...............................
Cambric Pocket Handkerchiefs, at 1s. .
Fine French Cambric ditto, at 2s. 6d. .
Huckaback Towels, at 1s. .............
Diaper Towels, at 9d. ................
Fine White Cotton Hose, at 2s. 6d.
Lisle Thread Hose, at 3s.6d. ..... ..............
Lisle Thread Hose Lace Fronts, etc., at 5s. 6d.
Black Silk Hose, at 7s.6d................... - - -
Riding Collars and Sleeves, at 3s.6d. ....
Kid Gloves, sewn with thread, at 3s.6d. ...
Thread Gloves or Silk Gloves, at 1s. 6d. ...
Clothes Bag....................................
Yards Fine Flannel, al 3s.6d...
Trunks, at 35s. ...................
Overland Cabin Bag .........
Air-tight Case for Dresses...
Tooth Brushes, at 9d.
Nail Brushes, at 3s. ......
Hair Brushes, at 4s. 6d.
Combs, at 1s 6d. ......................................
lbs. Windsor Soap and Fancy Soaps, at 1s. 6d. .. - - - -
Sponge and Bag...............................................................
36 71
Cabin Furniture for the Route by Sea.
3. s. d.
4 4
i.
1
with Mattress, Pillows, etc...................
|
!1
l
%
1
|#


IIST OF BOOKS ON INDIA. xxi
Cabin Furniture-continued.
- # s. d. £ s. d. £ s. d.
Mahogany Bullock Drawers, in two parts ...... 5 0 0 5 12 0 5 18 0
Book Case or Shelves ........................ ... l 6 - 0 2 10 0 3 5 0
Wash-hand Stand to form Table... 1 14 0 2 2 0 3 8 0
Table ............................ ...... 0 14 0 1 4 0 1 6 0
Folding Cabin Chair... 0 8 0 0 8 6 0 9 6
Ditto with arms 0 12 6 0 15 0 0 18 0
Lounging Chair... 1 15 0 and upwards.
Swinging Tray .............. 0 6 6 0 7 6
Looking Glass with Slide.. 0 6 6 0 7 6 0 12 0
Cabin Lamp ................... 0 12 0 0 14 0 0 16 0
Candlestick and Snuffers ......... 0 2 6 0 3 6 0 4 6
lbs. Wax or Composition Candles 0 1 8 and upwards.
Foot Bath ................................ 0 6 6 0 7 6 0 12 6
Water Can..................................... ... 0 3 6 0 4 6 0 6 6
Floor Cloth, Matting, or Carpet for Cabin...... All prices.
Hand Brush, Dust Pan, Mop, etc. ......... 0 4 6
Filtering Machine.................... • *- 1 0 0 1 3 0 1 6 0
Bag with Hammer, Nails, Cleats, Cords, etc.... 0 7 6
LIBRARY FOR INDIAN TRAVELLERS.
The following is a list of Books which may be perused by the
traveller previous to starting. Those in Italics are less requisite, or
only of local interest:—
HISTORY.
Elphinstone's History of India, 1 vol., 1857.
Lord Mahon's British India, 1 vol.
Mill's History of India, with continuation by H. H. Wilson, 9 vols., 1848.
Kaye's Administration of the East India Company, 1 vol.
Thornton's British Empire in India, 5 vols.
Dow's History of Hindustan, 3 vols.
Murray's History of British India.
Briggs' Mahomedan Power in India, 4 vols.
Shore's Notes on Indian Affairs.
Taylor's Popular History of British India.
Malcolm's Political History of India.
Prinsep's Transactions in India from 1813–18.
Hough's Political and Military Events in India.
Speir's Life in Ancient India.
Martineau’s British Rule in India.
Macfarlane's Our Indian Empire.
Ludlow's India and its Races.
Campbell's India.
BENGAL.
Stewart's History of Bengal.
MADRAs.
Orme's Hindústán.
Wilks. History of Maisar (Mysore).
BoMBAY.
Grant Duff's History of the Marathas.
THE PANJAB.
Cunningham's History of the Sikhs.
Smyth's Reigning Family of Lāhūr (Lahore).


xxii LIST or nooxs 01¢ INDIAQ
Smnn.
Postans’ Sindh, and 1l4hfatu'l Kirdm, Bengal As. Tram, vol. xviii., 1848.
Burton's Sindh and the Races that inhabit the Valley of the Indus. 1851.
R.in>fi'r.iNA.
Tod’s Rfijfifitllfill.
GUJARAT.
Bird’: Analysis of the Mirdt-i Allmadi
Forbes’ Res Mala.
CENTRAL Imam.
Malcolm's Memoir of Central India in 1824, 2 vols.
Nirin.
Oliphanlfs Visit to Nipél.
Oarsss.
Stirling/s History of the Rajas of Orissa.
BIOGRAPHIES AND Lnrrnns.
Malcolm’s Memoirs of Lord Clive, 3 vols.
Macaula 's Essa on the Life of Clive.
The We lesley espatches and Despatches of the Duke of Wellington,
vols. 1, 2, 3 (Gurwood); and Supplementary Despatches, vol. 1.
Gleig’ s Life of Lord Clive.
,, Sir T. Munro.
Kaye's Life of M etcalfe.
,, of Tucker.
of Malcolm.
av _
Life of Sir C. Napier.
TRAVELS AND MISCELLANEOUS.
Hakluyt, vols. 2 and 5.
Purchas’ Pilgrims, vol. 1, books 4 and 5.
Fryer's Account of India.
Forbes’ Oriental Memoirs.
Foster’s Journey from Bengal to England.
Buchanan's Travels through Maisfir and Kanada.
Tod’s Travels in \Vestern India.
Heber’s Journal.
Fitzelarencds Journey from India to England.
Lord Valentia’s Travels.
J acquemonifs Voyage aux Indes.
Graul’s Indische Reise, 5 vols.
Bacon’s First Impressions.
Baron IIugcl’s Travels in Kashmir and the Panj ab.
‘Fraser's Tour in the Himalayas.
Vigne’s Travels in Kashmir.
Sleeman’s Rambles and Recollections.
Burton's Unhappy Valley.
,, Goa and the Blue Mountains.
Burnes’ Visit to the Court of Sindh.
Mrs. Postans‘ Kaehh (Cuteh).
,, Western India.
Hervey’s Ten Years in India.
Dry Leaves from Young Egypt.
Davidson’s Trade and Travel 111 the Far East.
Von Orlich’s Travels.
Walsh's Military Reminiseenccs.
Taylor’s Memoirs of a Thug.


OVERLAND JOURNEY. xxiii
Rice's Tiger Shooting in India.
Smoult's Edition of Baikie's Nilgiris.
Lawrence's Thakurine and Life of an Adventurer.
Bradshaw's Overland Guide to India.
Autobiography of Lutfullah.
Fane's Five Years in India.
Thornton's Gazetteer.
Letters from Madras.
Capper's Three Presidencies of India.
Crauford's Dictionary of the Eastern Archipelago.
The Káněn-i Islám, being an account of all Muhammadan Customs, etc.
Royle's Productive Resources of India.
Cotton's Public Works in India.
Emma Roberts' Scenes and Characteristics of Hindústán.
OVERLAND JOURNEY.
For the general rules of the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Com-
pany, reference must be made to their Hand-book. The following
are their lines of communication, the length of passage, rates of
passage money, and baggage regulations. The expense of transit
through Egypt is included in the routes, with the exception of hotel
expenses, and of extra baggage, wines, spirits, beer, and soda water,
all of which the Egyptian Transit Administration charges for
separately. Servants of the Company soliciting fees are liable to
dismissal. Bedding, linen, and requisite furniture are provided in
the steamers, together with the attendance of experienced male and
female servants.
The Lines of Steam Communication embraced by the Company’s operations are
as follows, viz.:-
PLACES. Date and Hour of Departure from Southampton.
'' örökro"............ 7th, 17th, and 27th of every month, at 1 p.m.
#.£ N.B.—When these dates fall on Sundays, the Steamers
CADIz : . start on the following day (Monday) at 1 p.m.
GIBRALTAR. ............... MEDITERRANEAN AND PENINSULA.
MALTA........... - :} 4th and 20th of every month, at 1 p.m.
ALEXANDRIA ............ / | When the 4th or 20th falls on a Sunday the Steamer
leaves at 9 a.m.
BoMBAY ..................... 4th and 19th at 7 a.m. from Marseilles.
MAURITIUs ....... • - - - - - - - - 4th at 3 p.m.
ADEN ........ .......'........
CEYLoN
MADRAs INDIA.
CALCUTTA 4th and 20th of every month, at 1 p.m.
£: - - - When the 4th or 20th falls on a Sunday the Steamer
Hong Kong... - leaves at 9 a.m. |
SHANGHAI .... /
MANILLA........... ---


xxiv. OVERLAND JOURNEY.
The following table shows the length of Passage, under ordinary circumstances,
between Southampton and the several Ports outwards; also, the usual dates of
arrival at, and departure from, each Port in the course of the Voyage, and the
average stay at each place.
OUTWARDS (FROM ENGLAND).
#3 CD
.### Date of #5, Date of
FROM $25 To # 5 NOTES.
3 ## Arrival. 3 * | Departure
###
PENINSULAR LINE.
Southampton ....:...]:..................:::::::::::...:... 7, 17, 27 |n'
** 3 Vigo .... | 10, 20, 30 || 3 hrs. 10, 20, 30 on asunday, the Steamers
** A ||(of) Oporto... ii. 21, 31 || 1 , | ii. 31, 31 |ićave on the following
** 5 isbon . 12, 22, 1 |12 |, |13, 23, 2|day, at 1 p.m. |
** 7 | Cadiz. 3 || 3 14, 24, 3
** 8 Gibral 41 .........
SOUTHAMPTON TO ALEXANDRIA, AND SUEZ TO CALCUTTA LINE.
Southampton 4, 20 When the 4th or 20th
** 9, 25 |{ills, on a Sunday, the
14 30 Steamer leaves at 9 a.m.
- *
** 13 || Alexandria ... 17, 2
(60 hours from Alex-
andria to Suez.)
Suez ............l........l.....................l...............' ......... 19, 4
** 6 25, 10 |24 hrs. 26, 11
** 17 5, 21 | 12 ,, 5, 21
** 21 9, 25 | 12 , 9, 25
** 25 | Calcutta 13, 29 |..
MARSEILLES AND ALEXANDRIA LINE.
. 4, 11, 19, 27
7, 14, 22,30
... 7, 14, 32.36 i3
10,15,33,3
AND BOMBAY LINE.
12, 27
7 19, 3
15 27, 11
ADEN AND MAURITIUS LINE.
*~|~|~ |- |- | *
BOMBAY AND CHINA LINE.
Messrs. Menar and Co’s
Steamers leave about this
date with Mails and pas-
sengers for Mauritius.
Bombay ...............!..........................'..........] ......... 31, 16
** 4 Galle, Ceylon 4, 20 24 hrs. 5, 21
** 11 | Penang......... 11,
** 13 | Singapore..... 13, 29 |24 , 14, 30
** 24 | Hong Kong...] 24, 9 |.........].... -
-
HONG KONG AND SHANGHAI LINE.
|
Hong Kong...'.. 26, 11
27 | 12 ,, 11, 27
|
|
|
|


OWERLAND JOURNEY. RXV
The following table shows the length of Passage, under ordinary circumstances,
between the several Ports homewards; also, the usual dates of arrival at, and
departure from, each Port in the course of the Voyage, and the average stay
at each place.
HOMEWARDS (To ENGLAND).
FROM £ # Date of # s, Date of No
*- ****
o # To Arrival. $2 # Departure TES
S C- <!
'Z.
PENINSULAR LINE.
Gibraltar ...... 5, 15, 25 |. When the days of sail-
** 1 | Cadi ####, £
3 | Lisbon . ... 8. 18.28 || 48 9, 19, 29 • *. em.
: 3 |#%p: ###| | | | ####" "
** 5 | Vigo ............ 10, 20, 30 || 3 |, | 10, 20, 30
** 8 | Southampton | 13, 23, 3 ......... ...............
CALCUTTA TO SUEZ, AND ALEXANDRIA TO SOUTHAMPTON LINEs.
10, 24 In May, June, and Jul
13, 27 the Steamers leave Cal-
18, 1 cutta 5 days earlier.
| ** 24 | Suez .. | 19, 5 |...'......'.......
| (60 hours from Suez to
Alexandria.)
Alexandria ...l.........l........... - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 6, 20
- ** 3 10, 24 12 hrs. 10, 24
** 8 15, 29 | 12 , 15, 29
** 13 | Southampton 20, 3 | ......... ...............
ALEXANDRIA AND MARSEILLES LINE.
Alexandria ...! 2: ....................................] ......... 11, 19, 26, 3
** | * * * * * * * * * Marseilles..... 27, 12 |......... [...............
BOMBAY AND SUEZ LINE.
Bombay ............... 9, 24
** 18, 2
LINE
Hong Kon 1. 15 The Steamers in May,
". g 6 Singapore. 7, 3i |48 hrs. 9, 23 ###'
** 10 | Penang......... 11, 25 is , li; 25 |#ions song 5 days
** 16 |Galle, Ceylon | 17, 31 |24 ,, 18, 1 •
** 21 | Bombay........ 22, 5 ......... ...............
SHANGHAI AND HONG KONG LINE.
Shanghai .........
*


XXVI OVERLAND JOURNEY.
Bxeosea.
First-class passengers are allowed, in the Oompany’s steamers only, on either
side of the Isthmus, 3 cwt. of personal baggage free of freight, and children (above
three years) and servants lg cwt. each.
A passenger taking a whole cabin will be entitled to take in the steamers, free
of freight, one-half more baggage than the regulated allowance, and a married
couple, paying for reserved accommodation, will be entitled to take 9 cwt.
The charge for conveyance of extra baggage, should there be room in the
vessel, will be at the rate of £1 per ct. between England and Malta, or Alexandria;
£2 per cwt. between Suez and India ; and £3 pcr cwt. between Suez, the Straits,
and China.
Passengers for India and China will have to pay the Egyptian Transit Admin-
istration in Egypt 14.2. per cwt. for conveyance of baggage through, should it
exceed, for first-class passengers, 3 cwt. each, and children and servants 1Q cwt.
each.
The Egyptian Transit Administration have given notice that they will not for-
ward any package of baggage exceeding 80 lbs. weight, and measuring more than,
length, 3 ft. ; breadth, 1 ft. 3 in. ; depth, 1 ft. 2 in., with the passengers to Suez.
A departure from this regulation will cause a detention in Egypt, to such pack-
ages, of a fortnight.
All baggage intended for transit through Egypt should be packed in strong
and well-secured packages, in order to avoid breakage or damage en route.
The Company cannot engage to take any excess of baggage over the regulated
allowance, unless shipped at Southampton on the day before sailing, and freight
paid thereon.
All baggage for the ports of the Mediterranean, India, and China, must be
shipped not later than noon on the day previous to sailing, except carpet bags or
hat boxes. All other baggage received on board on the day of sailing will be
considered as extra baggage, and charged freight as such.
The insurance of baggage can be effected on very moderate terms.
Passengers embarking at Marseilles for Alexandria, India, and China, can
have 3 cwt. of their baggage conveyed by the steamer from Southampton free of
charge; all in excess will be charged.
Passengers outwards, proceeding aid Trieste, and joining the steamers of the
Peninsular and Oriental Company at Suez, and passengers homewards who have
been conveyed to Suez in the Peninsular and Oriental Company’s steamers, can
ship their baggage by the Company's vessels from Southampton to Alexandria,
and vies oerszi, subject to the following charge, payable in advance :— -
For the regulated allowance of 3 cwt., 10s. Exclusive of the charge for transport
per cwt. } made by the Transit Administra-
For any excess over 3 cwt., 20s. per cwt. tion of Egypt.
N.B.—The baggage of passengers proceeding aid Trieste must be shipped at
Southampton so as to ensure its arrival at Alexandria a fortnight in advance of
the passengers to whom it may belong. Non-compliance with this regulation is
likely to involve loss or detention of the baggage in Egypt.
Passengers taking parcels or articles of merchandize in their baggage will


OVERLAND JOURNEY. xxvii
incur the risk of seizure by the Customs authorities, and of detention for freight
by the Company's agents. -
Every package of baggage should have the owner's name and place of destina-
tion distinctly painted upon it.
Baggage can be occasionally had up from the baggage-room during the pas-
sage by application to the officer in charge.
No trunks or boxes allowed in the Saloon or Cabins.
INDIA, ETC.
Passengers leaving Southampton by the Company's steamers on the 4th and
20th of the month, for Aden, Ceylon, Madras, Calcutta, Penang, Singapore,
Hong Kong, Shanghai, or Manilla, arrive at Gibraltar about the 9th and 25th
of the month, and after staying there, say twelve hours, proceed to Malta, at
which port they remain about the same time; they then leave for Alexandria,
arriving there, under ordinary circumstances, in about 13 days from Southampton.
At Suez, passengers embark, by steam tender, on board one of the Company’s
steamers, which sail about the 19th and 4th of the month, arriving at Aden about
the 25th and 10th, at Point de Galle, Ceylon, about the 5th and 21st (passengers
for the Straits and China are here transferred into one of the steamers on the
Bombay and China line), Madras about the 9th and 25th, and finally at Calcutta
about the 13th and 29th of the following month.
TRANSIT THROUGH EGYPT.
Passengers are conveyed through Egypt by the Transit Administration of his
Highness the Pacha.
The mode of transit is as follows:-
From Alexandria to Cairo by rail ... ... 7 hours.
Time for refreshments at Cairo.............. ... 3 *
From Cairo to No. 12 station, per rail ..................... 4 ,
Time for refreshments at No. 12 station..................... 2 ,
No. 12 station to Suez in vans................ • • * * * * * * • * * * * * ... 4 »
Total.............................. 20 ,
The following are extracts from the tariff of the Transit Administration:—
“Passengers are furnished with three meals # diem, during the time they are
en route, free of charge; but their expenses at hotels must be defrayed by them
selves, as also wines, beer, etc., during their entire transit.
“The portmanteaux, trunks, carpet bags, etc., of the passengers, must bear
the £ and destination of the owners; such inscription to be legible and well
88Cure(i.
“On the arrival of each steamer, the officer of the Administration will attend
to receive the luggage of passengers.
“The Administration will not be responsible for any loss or damage of unsuit-
able or insecure luggage, nor for unavoidable detention.”
Packages containing jewellery, plate, or other Valuables, must be specially
booked, and freight and transit duty paid thereon.
Packages containing parcels of specie or merchandise are liable to seizure and
confiscation, and to detention for freight by the agents of the Company.


XXV111 OVERLAND JOURNEY.
Rates of Passage Money, imluding the Expenses of the Transit throuyh Egg/pt.


. 6 3 - '
, §' n {l id E‘ 3. - '5,
Fimu ENGLAND 1-0 5 ‘g §_ § 2 E, E’? 5
<: in 6'3 2 5 8 in :2: :1 22
£ £ £ £ £ £ 5 £
GENTLEMEN on Lsnn-:s TRAVELLDIG
BXNGLY.
Gentlemen occupying a Berth in a '
Cabin, with two or three others, 70 95 95 mo 105 no 130 150
Ladies, if booked sufficiently early,
a Berth in a Cabin, with two or
on the Lower Deck.
three others, on the Upper Deck. J
Mmnizn Cournns occupying a Re-
served Cabin on the Main Deck E 200 M0 240 250 270 290 335 375
CHILDREN wrrrr THE PAB.EX'l‘—3
years and under 10 ................... 35 45 45 50 50 55 60 70

A CHILD under 3 years (no Berth
provided), ____________________________ N Free. Free. Free. Free. Free. Free. Free. Free.
SEBVANTS——E\1l‘0p€3.1l
35 45 45 50 50 55 60 70
} In Fore Cabin. {
,, Native _ .. 20 25 25 30 30 40 45 50

F‘ Except £75 transit ezipenses through Egypt, if above 2 years.
MARSEILLFS TO MALTA AND ALEXANDRIA.
The Company’s steamers, Vectis, Valetta, or Euxine, leave Marseilles for Malta
on the 4th, 11th, 19th, and 27th of the month, at 7 a.m., with her Majest 's mails.
Passengers must be at Marseilles the afternoon of the day previous to sai ing.
First Class. Second Class. Servants.
Fare to Malta.................. £8 £5 £4
Fare to Alexandria 18 10 9
A child, under three years, if with the parent, free. Above three, and under
ten ears, half fare.
assengers proceedin throu h France, and joining the Peninsular and Oriental
Company‘s steamers at arseifics, will please take note that, to save themselves
trouble and anno ance, it will be neeessar to send their pass orts, as soon after
their arrival at l\ arseillcs as possible, to lt essrs. R. Gower an Co., the agent to
the Peninsular and Oriental Company at that port, as it is requisite they should
be noted at the Police and Marine Oflices before the departure of the steamers.
The journey across France to Marseilles, and then by a steamer
to Alexandria, is undoubtedly the quickest way of reaching Egypt.
The greater number of travellers, however, prefer proceeding by
steamer from Southampton direct to Alexandria, because this saves
much fatigue, shifting of luggage, and also some expenses.




WHAT T0 OBSERVE ON THE OVERLAND JOURNEY.
The vessel, in general, approaches tolerably near to Cape Finis-
terre. The outlines of the landscape are bold, varied and beautiful ;
but a heavy swell, which commonly rolls in, is apt to interfere with
the voyager’s contemplations.


WHAT TO OBSERVE ON THE OVERLAND JOURNEY. XXIX
From this, on running down the coast of Portugal, the steamer
on most occasions keeps close in-shore, so that the land is for the
most part visible. The first places of note that present themselves
are Oporto and Vigo Bay. The appearance of the mainland is
exceedingly picturesque. The coast is rocky and precipitous, jagged
and irregular. There are lighthouses on certain small islands, and
on more than one of the headlands; and white-walled dwellings
and villages gleam out from the blue line of coast.
Torres Vedras.—-The heights of Torres Vedras, close on shore,
present nothing to the eye that is marvellous or attractive, though
rich in the most striking historical associations. The magnificent pile
at Mafra is generally distinctly visible without the aid of a telescope.
It is of enormous extent, containing a palace, convent, and superb
church. The lines of Byron here recur to remembrance :——
“The horrid era s, by toppling convent crowned,
The cork-trees oar that clothe the shaggy steep,
The mountain-moss by scorching skies embrowned,
The sunken glen, whose sunless shrubs must weep,
The tender azure of the unruflicd deep,
The orange tints that gild the greenest bough,
The torrents that from cliff to valley lea ,
The vine on high, the willow branch be ow,
Mixed in one mighty scene, with varied beauty glow.”
The ridge, on the highest pinnacle of which the convent of our
Lady of the Rock is situated, is wild, rugged, and precipitous, as-
cending to an elevation of about 2500 ft. A low clifi' skirts the sea-
shore, and singular masses, apparently of drift sand, make their
appearance, stretching along and inland for some miles.
A very picturesque appearance is often presented by the fishing
boats when the breeze is fresh. They have a drag-net attached to
the extreme end of a long outrigger, stretching some thirty or forty
feet beyond the vessel, and hundreds of sea-birds follow the net.
with the view, apparently, of picking up any stray fish they can
extract from it.
Lisbon.--The Rock of Lisbon, a huge, unshapely, but striking
mass,indicates the approach to the Tagus. The river opens up mag-
nificently from the sea. The spires and lofty buildings of Lisbon are
distinctly seen, with the vessels at anchor off the quay. Cape Espartel,
a remarkable headland, with a lighthouse upon its extremity, becomes
visible a little to the south of the debouchure of the Tagus. The
cliff is obliquely stratified, and marked like those of Alum Bay, Isle
of Wight. The land now recedes, and is in a considerable measure
lost sight of, till, rounding close in upon Cape St. Vincent, the
scene of the celebrated engagement in 1797, the Bay of Cadiz is
entered. In crossing this bay, land is no longer in sight for a time.
It becomes visible again off Cape Trafalgar.


XXX WHAT TO OBSERVE ON THE OVERLAND JOURNEY.
Gibralta/r.—The next place of importance reached by the steamer
is Gibraltar, where the vessel quits the Atlantic Ocean, and enters
the Mediterranean. The rock of Gibraltar first comes into view
about ten miles off. As the bay is approached, the suddenness of
the change in the colour of the water, from bright deep blue to
green, as the soundings decrease at once from 24 to 16 fathoms,
strikes the voyager. The transition is instantaneous, Without any
intermediate hue or shading. Rounding the Point Carnero, and
breasting Europa Point, you find yourself at once within a
beautiful sheltered and spacious recess, some six miles across and
ten in depth, with British men-of-war, steamers, and merchant
ships of every nation at anchor. The appearance of the rock at
Gibraltar, with respect to its known military strength, generally
disappoints the stranger. The most formidable of the batteries
are either concealed in mysterious galleries in the bosom of the
rock itself, half-way up, or lie so close on the line of the sea, as
to be lost sight of amongst the hulls of the vessels around. The
promontory consists of a vast rock, rising from 1200 to 1400 ft.
above the sea; is about three miles in length, and from one-half to
three-quarters of a mile in width, and is joined to the mainland by
a low sandy isthmus, about a mile and a half in length. On the
north side, fronting the isthmus, the rock is almost perpendicular,
the east and south sides are also steep and rugged; but on the west
side it slopes downward to a. fine bay, nine miles long by four miles
and a. half broad. On this slope lies the town, containing a mixed
population of 16,000, and above rise the principal ramparts of the
rocky fortress, which is generally garrisoned by from 3,000 to 4,000
- troops. The ordnance consists of more than 700 cannons fit for
service.
Gibraltar derives its name from Tarik, the Moorish General, by
whom it was taken from the Spaniards in 7ll—Jabalu’t Ta'm'I:,
“ the Mountain of Taril_§.” It remained in the hands of the Moors
till the beginning of the fourteenth century, when it was recovered
by the Spaniards. It was retaken by the Moors in 1333. In 1462
it finally fell into the hands of the Christians, after having been
possessed by their adversaries for 748 years. ,On the 24th of July,
1704, it was captured by the English, who fell on it suddenly, and
stormed it—the garrison amounting to no more than 150 men, the
batteries mounting 100 guns. From this time till nearly the end
of the century, numberless attempts to wrest it from us have been
made by the French and Spaniards, but in vain. During the late
war, it seemed to be considered idle to attempt to disturb us!
The town of Algesiras, a place of considerable importance, and
remarkable as that at which the Moors first landed in Spain, lies
across the bay at about 5% miles off, while the village of St. Roque,


WHAT T0 OBSERVE ON THE OVERLAND JOURNEY. XXXT
at the upper end of the bay, is conspicuous on the slope. The high
blue mountains of Granada fill up the background.
The winter climate of Gibraltar is extremely delightful. In
December, the temperature varies from 60° to 70°, clouds shading
the piercing rays of the sun. In summer, it is occasionally ex-
tremely hot, especially when the Wind blows from the African shore.
The appearance presented by Gibraltar, viewed from the harbour,
is peculiarly striking after nightfall. The numberless lights, seen in
all their brightness through the open windows, look as if issuing
from apertures admitting to some bright cave or furnace in the
centre of the rock, whose huge black mass towers on high, the
houses in the town being undistinguishable in the darkness. In
summer, the surface of the sea is occasionally so closely covered with
luminous particles, as to seem sheeted with phosphorus. The slightest
ripple increases the intensity of the light, and the dolphins flash
through the water, literally “ moving in light of their own making.”
In winter, this in a great measure disappears, the luminosity being
confined to a few bright masses which sweep by the ship.
The view of the African shore from Gibraltar Bay is, towards
sunset, peculiarly beautiful--the fortress, of Ceuta, standing out
purple and red in the setting sun, in mimic rivalry of that on the
European shore. One huge mass of mountains, of the Atlas group
on the African side, with the Sierras of Andalusia on the Spanish
shore, “fill the mind with beauty” for a long while on leaving or
on approaching Gibraltar.
Algiers.-—Steamin g onward through the Mediterranean, the vessel
steers direct for Malta, by which the African shore is neared. The
bay and town of Algiers, with the villas around, are passed, and are
plainly visible to the naked eye. The country adjoining is fertile
and well cultivated, and roads, gardens, and enclosures, with fields
and vineyards, are seen in good condition. Cape Faroe, and the pro-
montory of the Seven Capes, are jagged, irregular headlands, very
distinctly visible. Cape Ben is another headland which comes into
sight. The dreary island of Pantellaria, which is evidently the huge
tumulus of an extinct volcano, is next seen. It is about 36 miles
in circumference, and seems about 3000 ft. in height. The ruptured
craters and streams of lava are easily traceable, with beds of loose
stones hurled down the mountain’s side during some of its fiercer
explosions. A large mass of cloud, which might readily be mistaken
for the smoke of smouldering fires, almost constantly rests on the
summit of the mountain. There is a considerable town, of the same
name with the island, near the sea-shore on the western slope, and
vineyards and gardens appear scattered about in surprising abund-
ance. It belongs to the king of Sicily, and is used as a penal settle-
ment, whither the Sicilian convicts are sent.


xxxii WHAT TO OBSERVE ON THE OVERLAND JOURNEY.
Malta.—The island of Malta, which now belongs to England, is 60
miles from the nearest point in Sicily, and 200 from the African shore.
It is 70 miles in length, nine in width, and 160 in circumference.
It attains in one place an elevation of 600 feet. The climate is fine
and healthy, though hot in summer, and suffers occasionally from
the sirocco, which blows from the south-east, and occurs chiefly in
September. The mean annual temperature is 67°; the variation of
the yearly means from 1820 to 1840 was no more than 3°; the
extreme range during the year is about 24°. -
Malta consists entirely of calcareous rocks, with scarcely any
soil, diluvium, or abraded matter. The country has rather an arid
appearance, but it produces grapes in abundance, and other fruits.
At a distance, the view is rendered lively by the great number of
windmills perched on the heights, and employed for grinding corn.
The inhabitants speak a language partly Arabic and partly Italian,
the former predominating.
The port of Malta consists of two splendid harbours, sepa-
rated from each other by the narrow promontory called Mount
Xiberras. On this stands the capital, Waletta. Marsamuscetta is
the name given to the western or quarantine harbour; the other is
called Waletta, or the Great Harbour. The entrance to this last
is guarded on the one side by the fortress of St. Elmo, on the other
by that of Ricasoli, both of remarkable strength. On Fort St. Elmo
is one of the most brilliant lighthouses in the Mediterranean. The
Great Harbour runs away into numerous creeks and inlets. In one
of these are the dockyard, the victualling-yard, and arsenal, with a
wet-dock just finished, which is said to have cost the government
not much under a million sterling. In another is the merchant
shipping wet-dock and store-yards. A number of British, American,
and French ships of war are commonly at anchor in the port; one
British line-of-battle ship, of the largest size, with the admiral's flag
on board, being of the number. The vast variety of forms, and
diversity of appointments, of the mercantile vessels, especially of
those from the Levant, present a most picturesque appearance.
It is seldom the traveller to or from the East can find leisure to
examine the whole of the noble sights in or around Malta. There
are abundance of excellent “guide-books,’ of which a supply can at
all times be procured from the admirable library of Mr. Muir, for
those who have leisure and inclination for such things.
One of the principal objects of attraction is the cathedral of St.
John, the patron of the order of the famed Knights of Malta. It
was built in 1580. Externally, it is a heavy-looking pile. It has
a fine chime of bells, supposed to have been brought from Rhodes,
and its internal decorations are rich and beautiful. The floor is
mosaic marble pavement, chiefly composed of sepulchral monuments


wn.-u‘ T0 ossnnvn on run ovnsmnn JOURNEY. xxxiii
of the knights, whose figures are represented in white marble. The
governor now resides in the palace of the Grand Master, a fine
spacious building. The most striking object connected with it is the
armoury. It contains 10,000 stand of modern infantry arms, fit for
immediate use. The most attractive portions, however, of its contents
are the arms and suits of armour of the Middle Ages: some of these
are beautifully chased, and inlaid with gold. There is a singular
piece of ordnance, an eight or ten pounder, made of a moderately
strong tube of sheet-copper, covered over with coils of tarred rope.
The gun is neatly formed, and, at first, the singular material of which
it is made is not apparent. It seems to have been burst in firing. The
library is said, at the time of the expulsion of the knights, to have
contained 70,000 volumes. There are in the palace tables, slabs, vases,
and ornaments of various kinds, cut from the marble of Valetta.
The fortifications of Malta are most extensive and intricate;
they are connected with the harbours; and on looking at their
powers of defence, the mind is impressed with the conviction that
they are impregnable. Fort St. Elmo, the most massive of these
works, contains accommodation for 2,000 men. Few things are more
dazzling or trying for the eyes than the rocks and buildings around
Malta harbour: they are of an intensely yellowish-white, without
one particle of vegetation to relieve them. The waters of the
harbour are singularly pure, so that the bottom is distinctly visible
to the depth of 30 or 40 feet. The Parlettario is the favourite
resort for quarantine-bound passengers. It is a long narrow room,
near the anchorage, divided by abarrier, where the gold and silver
filigree-work, for which Malta is famous, is sold. Here also are
shell cameos, bracelets, and brooches in mosaic, and a vast variety
of bijouterie. The Maltese females are celebrated for the skill and
delicacy with which they embroider silks, as well as for the beauty
of the knit silk gloves, etc., which they manufacture; and on these
a good deal of money is usually expended in the Parlettario for the
benefit of friends at home.
There is a tradition that, from the time of the visit of St. Paul,
Malta has been devoid of serpents or other poisonous reptiles. Dr.
Buist, from whom this account of the Overland Journey is taken,
gives evidence of the baselessness of the tradition, having seen a
snake killed by a soldier on duty close by his sentry-box. It was
about three feet long, of a dingy brown, and had very much the hue
and aspect of the common cobra. Close by the anchorage are
several sentry stations, and the neat economical penthouse with
which the soldier is protected from the sun is particularly suit-
able for India. It is a light wooden stand, not unlike a music
stand in shape, with a moveable board, which can be fixed at any
degree of angle, to shelter the sentinel from the sun.
0


XXXTV WHAT T0 OBSERVE ON THE OVERLAND JOURNEY.
E_qypt.—The land around Alexandria is so low, that it does not
come into sight till the harbour of Alexandria is quite close; but
some time previously, are observed rising, as it were, out of the sea,
the windmills, Pompey’s Pillar, the Lighthouse, and Cleopatra’s
Needle, with several towers and minarets. From the town westward
to the Lake Mareotis, for the space of nearly a mile, the sand
hillocks by the shore are literally covered with windmills. The
turrets are about 30 feet high, the length of the arms about 20 feet,
breadth of sail three and a half feet. They have eight vanes each;
and as they are set different ways, and so move in opposite direc-
tions in different mills, when tossing their arms in the wind, they
look like sea-monsters sprawling about on the shore, and striving
to regain their native element. They are all employed in grinding
wheat; and though rugged and rude enough in appearance, are in
reality simple and efficient implements. They employ a single pair
of stones, made of vesicular lava from Sicily. They have no sift-
ing or boulting apparatus: the ground wheat is received from the
stones in a sack, and the flour afterwards dressed through a fine
gauze sieve by the hand.
_/1lex(mdm'a.—On landing at Alexandria, the traveller feels that
he is fairly out of Europe. He may have seen a stray and stunted
palm-tree or two at Gibraltar or Malta, with here and there a Turk
or Arab in his native dress : these last, indeed, may be met with in
the streets of London. At Alexandria all the costumes are Oriental,
European residents even dressing like Turks. Vast groves of mag-
nificent date-trees, far surpassing in beauty those to be met with
in Westem India, stretch away in all directions. Long strings of
camels are employed in carrying merchandise. The women are all
veiled—-covered over with that unsightly blue vestment which con-
ceals the person and the face, leaving a pair of little holes for the
eyes to peep through. Formerly, it was the custom for passengers
from the steam-packets to place themselves on the backs of donkeys,
in order to get through the streets. This is all changed now, and
the traveller finds a large and roomy van ready for his conveyance
to the hotel, without absurdity, romance, or inconvenience.
The great square of Alexandria, where most of the European
inhabitants reside, has a singularly fine and pleasing appearance,
though without any true architectural beauty. The houses are
built of whitish limestone, like Bath stone, only here the walls
remain pure as when erected-—taking no tarnish from the wea-
ther. In the centre is an obelisk of the yellowish-white Cairo
marble, which surmounts a fountain. The residences of the consuls
around the square have each a flag-staff, on which on gala-days the
ensigns of their respective nations are displayed. The house of the
French consul has a strange-looking corkscrew staircase surrounding


WHAT TO OBSERVE ON THE OVERLAND JOURNEY. XXXV
it, and leading to a watch- tower which overlooks the town. Many
of the sign-boards of the shopkeepers, especially the apothecaries,
are painted with Greek characters. Here are situated the principal
hotels, and hence diverge streets to all parts of the town.
Alexandria was originally built in the form of a Macedonian
mantle, with its longer side to the sea. At one time it contained a
population of above half a million, of which one moiety were slaves.
It boasted of 4,000 palaces, 4,000 baths, 400 theatres or places of
amusement, 12,000 shops for the sale of vegetables, and 40,000
tributary Jews. Its public libraries are said to have contained
700,000 volumes of books. It was accidentally destroyed by fire
during the war with the Romans in Caesar’s time. Ages of misrule
under Saracens, and latterly under Turks, fell like a blight on
everything in Alexandria, as on everything else in Egypt; and not
until the era of Mehemet Ali did the country show any symptom of
revival. Since the beginning of the present century, the population
of Alexandria has increased from 7,000 to 70,000. With its harbour
and docks, it now possesses the appearance of a thriving port.
Vestiges of the ancient splendour of Alexandria are everywhere
to be found. Fragments of richly-sculptured columns, of archi-
traves, cornices, and other portions of architectural ornament, are to
be seen strewed about in every quarter of the oity—broken up for
lime or for paving-stones, and built into the meanest houses. Huge
shafts of granite are continually disclosed, half buried amongst the
rubbish or the sand; and the mounds of ruins are in many cases
one mass of porphyries, granites, verde-anticoes, and marbles, brought
from Upper Egypt or the south of Europe. Mosaics, and pieces of
ancient glass, are also abundant; the latter marked by that irides-
cent semi-metallic hue which indicates decay through extreme lapse
of time.
The sights at Alexandria are Pompey’: Pillar, Uleopatrds ZVeedles,
the Catacombs, the Pasha’s Palaee, the battlefield where Abereromlzy
fell, the Lake ]l'[a'reot1's, of which a distant view usually satisfies
the traveller; and the Canal. Pompey/s Pillar stands on an
eminence about 600 yards from the present walls of the town,
close beside the road which leads from the Rosetta Gate to the
Mahmoudyé Canal. The total height of the column is 98 feet.
The shaft, which is a single block of red granite or syenite, is
nine feet eight inches in diameter, and 73 in length. It is now
proved to have been erected by Publius, the prefect of Egypt, in
honour of the Emperor Dioclesian. It was probably removed from
some other site to the place where it now stands, and is said to
have been originally erected, and formed most likely a portion of
some of the more ancient and noble relics of Egypt. Cleopa-
tra’s Needles are at the opposite extremity of the town; they


xxxvi WHAT TO OBSERVE ON THE OVERLAND JOURNEY.
consist of two obelisks, one prostrate, and one erect, of the same
material as the column. One is 70, the other 65 feet high, and
about seven feet in diameter at the base. They stood originally at
Heliopolis, and were brought to Alexandria by one of the Caesars.
Both are covered with hieroglyphics.
The Lake of Mareotis is one of the curiosities of the neighbour.
hood of Alexandria, and is situated a short way beyond the Rosetta
Gate. This lake, which is about 150 miles in circumference, was
originally freshwater; and being about five or six feet deep, it
answered the purposes of navigation. In consequence of its con-
nexion with the Nile being cut off, its waters were wholly dried up,
or nearly so; and in this condition it was 80 or 90 years since. An
entire change followed. It is divided from the sea by mounds of
sand, blown up from the shore, and its bottom is several feet lower
than the level of the Mediterranean. Thus exposed to the danger
of submersion, it was resolved, during the siege of Alexandria, in
1788, to let in upon it the waters of the ocean. It was certain to
produce a wide-spread calamity; but when did the demon war stop
to consider results? Four cuts were made, each of six yards in
width, and ten distant from each other. The waters rushed in with
a fall of six feet. Two more cuts were finished next day, and the
sea finally broke down the divisions. The sea flowed in for a week.
The calamity was fearful. The sites of 300 villages were flooded,
and rendered barren for ever. The bank was afterwards closed up
again, and the communication with the sea cut off; but the basin of
the lake being lower than the surface of the sea, and the Mediter-
ranean here being without tide, there was no means of drawing off
the salt water. It was by degrees in a great measure evaporated by
the sun, leaving a vast expanse of once fertile surface covered with
a dazzling snow-white sheet of salt. The Nile is admitted annually
to it at flood, and the lake then re-appears, but the returning dry
season only restores the condition previously existing. Nor does
there appear to be any remedy for this, until the successive de-
positions of silt from the river accumulate sufficiently to raise the
bottom of the lake to a level with the sea—an operation only to
be effected through some vast and indefinite lapse of time. Till
then, the salt must always mingle with the freshwater silt de-
posited every year. Could rice or any grain be grown on it, as in
India, which flourishes even on saline grounds, the process of re-
covery would of course be greatly accelerated. The lake formerly
communicated by a canal with the port of Old Alexandria.
The Catacombs—In various masses of rock, composed of oolitic
limestone, adjacent to the lake and near the town, are shown a
number of curious catacombs, and other ancient works of art,
including a variety of mosaics. South of the city are several


WHAT TO OBSERVE ON THE OVERLAND JOURNEY. xxxvii
high mounds, likewise interesting from the relics of ancient art
found imbedded in them. The bricks used for building in Alex-
andria are those excavated from the ruins of the ancient city;
they are quarried in abundance in all directions. They are well-
formed, and excellently burnt; and so perfectly cemented to-
gether, that it is often more difficult to break the hardened mortar
than the material it unites. The potter's wheel at Alexandria
is a singular one: it consists of a spindle about two feet long,
turning in a socket some one and a half feet under the level of
the floor, and a collar about three inches from the upper extremity.
The circular disk on which the ware is thrown is of course above
this last. The wheel is turned at the rate of about two revolutions
a second, by a circular flange 14 feet in diameter just above its
lower insertion. The potter sits on the floor, his legs in a small pit
below the wheel, shuffling with his feet on the flange just mentioned,
and so making the wheel revolve. It is certainly a most awkward-
looking implement. Yet the ware turned out is good, strong, well-
shaped, and is afterwards thoroughly burned in kilns.
Admission to the Pasha's Palace may be procured by an order
from the vakil, or steward. It is a meat, but plain and unpre-
tending building. The view from it is beautiful. The rooms are
handsome, and well-proportioned and arranged; and the floors, of
inlaid brightly-polished wood, have a very pleasing effect.
Travellers for India usually hurry through Egypt, with the view
of not losing the steamboat, which is ready for them at Suez. But
those who have time and money to spare may occupy themselves
very delightfully in spending a fortnight on the journey. The con-
veyance of travellers from Alexandria to Suez is effected by the
Pasha, at an expense of £12. This charge includes everything save
liquors and hotel bills of all kinds at Cairo, which fall on the pas-
senger, and frequently amount to 15s. or £1. All charges of this
class seem in Egypt extortionately high, and are indeed out of all pro-
portion to tavern bills in Europe. But then it must be remembered
that the whole establishments are permanently maintained for the
sake of employment one day in seven; and that, unless when the
passengers are on the way, the innkeepers are wholly idle. The
whole distance from Alexandria to Cairo may now be performed by
rail; but should the tourist wish to take things more leisurely, he
may sail or steam up the canal. Having arranged matters at the
Transit Office, the traveller will be duly informed of the hour when
the vans quit the hotel, and should make the best of his time in the
interval. The vans proceed to the place of embarkation, about two
miles distant, on the Mahmoudyé Canal. The luggage is forwarded
beforehand on camels, a carpet-bag being all that is allowed—it is all,
indeed, that is requisite—for each individual to carry along with him.


xxxviii WHAT ro onsnnvn on run ovnnmnn JOURNEY.
The road to the canal leads through the great square already
described, and on to the Rosetta Gate—an old ragged fragment of
the fortifications of the town. And here the traveller finds that
Alexandria is being fortified, after the manner of Paris, with walls,
and bastions, and ditches, and all the other contrivances of military
engineership. The works are being constructed on the recommenda-
tion of the French, and under the superintendence of French engineers.
Passing onward, the road leads close to the elevation on which stands
Pompey’s Pillar. Not far to the left is the battlefield where Sir
Ralph Abercromby fell.
A2{féh.—-The Mahmoudyé Canal connects Alexandria with Atféh,
a navigable point on the Nile. This important public work was begun
in 1819, and completed in little more than six months, having been
opened on the 24th of January, 1820. It is 48 miles in length, 90
feet across, and about 18 feet in depth. For a long distance, the
banks of the canal are ornamented on one side by neat villas, with
most beautiful shrubberies and flower-gardens in front of them.
The little kiosks, or summer-seats, consisting, in a circle, of benches
shadowed by lofty trees, almost hang over the banks. The canal is
nowhere straight, and passes along a country so perfectly level that
locks are not required. One onl exists at Atféh. As many as
150,000 people are said to have been employed in the excavation of
the canal: the inhabitants of all the villages in Lower Egypt were
marched down to the stations respectively assigned to them, one
month’s pay having been advanced to enable them to supply them-
selves with provisions. The assemblage of so enormous a multitude,
which would have formed a double line from end to end of the
canal, had they stood as close as possible to each other, was sure
to be productive of fatal results; and, accordingly, 20,000 perished
on the occasion. Provisions ran short, many fell victims to starvation,
and pestilence swept many more away. Two~thirds of them were
without tools or clothing of any kind whatever, groping up the mud,
and lifting it out with their hands.
The banks of the canal are sufliciently high to intercept the view
of the adjoining country, so that, after passing the villas already
alluded to, there is really nothing to be seen. A good sailing-boat
traverses the distance in eight hours; one, tugged by horses, in ten.
A small high-pressure steamer may be employed, which goes along
at the rate of about five miles an hour. The boats containing
the passengers and luggage are towed behind. In going up the
Nile, several large works for assisting the irrigation of the country
are passed.
One who has examined the magnificent specimens of grain now
grown in England, is exceedingly disappointed on examining that
for which Egypt, for thirty centuries, has been famous The stalks


WHAT TO OBSERVE ON THE OVERLAND JOURNEY.‘ XXX]-.X
of the barley are seldom above 18 or 20 inches long; each root
produces from 6 to 25 stems, 15 being about the average. -There
are six rows of grains on each stalk, each row containing at an
average about ten grains, so that the return from the seed is from
600 to 900. The roots are from six to fourteen inches from each
other; and an acre of land in Egypt will not yield so much grain,
by measure or weight, as a similar surface in England——both
under present cultivation. The barley itself, when rubbed out,
would be little short of unsaleable in average seasons at home, so
thin, husky, and poor is it. It is trampled out of the straw by
oxen, and cleared of chaff by the wind. The straw is chopped or
cut up into what is in India called bhusd, by an implement closely
resembling a turnip-sowing harrow, drawn over it by oxen, each
roller being armed with three or four circular cutters.
The crop which most surprises by its abundance is tobacco, vast
fields of which extend in all directions. Nor is it to be wondered at
that the cultivation of this narcotic should rival in extent that of
grain, or roots, or fruits for human food. In Egypt, every man who
can afford it smokes at every hour of the day. A singular variety of
raft, consisting of a framework of slight sticks, buoyed up by a vast
number of earthen pots, is frequently to be seen on the Nile. These
rafts appear to be chiefly employed in carrying coarse earthenware
down the river.
First sight of the Pg/ra1m'cls.—From the moment of arrival in
Egypt, we feel that we are in a country possessing many relics
of the past; but this feeling cannot be said to exist in perfect
force till we approach Cairo, which is the threshold of all the
great marvels of ancient art. Those who have not before sailed up
the Nile, watch for the first appearance of the Pyramids. These be-
come suddenly visible about 40 miles below Cairo. They are seen
far across the desert breaking the western horizon, and seem at this
enormous distance almost as large as when looked at from Cairo.
Here the desert sand has fairly drifted over the fertile soil, and is
blown in masses into the river. The banks of the Nile, indeed,
show that this has been an event of frequent occurrence since silt
began to accumulate, alternate beds of sand and mud being visible
all down a section of 10 to 15 feet of bank. The sand, examined
through a magnifier, is of a yellowish smoke-colour, sharp and
angular, often of a regular cubical form. It looks like the quartz
portions of disintegrated granite, which it probably is.
The banks of the Nile, which have been hitherto dull and un-
interesting, become exceedingly striking on approaching Boulak,
which is in the vicinity of Cairo. Long lines and groups of trees
skirt the left bank of the river. Amongst some half-dozen of
beautiful acacias, the magnificent golden flowers of the acacia fistula


Kl WHAT TO OBSERVE OK THE OVERLAND JOURNEY.
stand conspicuous. The tree receives its name from the seed-pod
being of the form and size of an ordinary fife: the flower is some-
thing like that of the laburnum, with each branch five or six times
the size of those of the latter tree. Then come the gardens and
pleasure-grounds around the palace of Shoubra. The island of
Rhoda, almost one entire garden, divides and half fills up the
river in front. The beautiful weeping willow of Egypt—most
graceful and lovely of its loveliest of races-—is conspicuous every-
where. The long sweeping yards of the lateen-sailed boats of the
Nile, sometimes not less than 60 feet in length, shoot up by the
shore. Just beyond are the large cotton-mills and other works of the
Pasha, and English steam-engines and huge chimney stalks intrude
upon the sight, which, though striking enough as contrasts, seem
here eminently out of place. Sweeping along the eastern horizon, at
a distance of two miles, is the Citadel, with the vast city and count-
less minarets of Grand Cairo. On the other or right side only two
objects present themselves to the eye—the Desert and the Pyramids.
The voyage up the Nile, extending to 120 miles from Atféh, occupies
from 18 to 19 hours, and is brought to a close at Boulak.
0'm'ro.—The drive to the city is by no means over a good road;
but being through fields and gardens, the scene is everywhere most
rich and beautiful. Crossing various canals and gardens, and thread-
ing some beautiful avenues of trees, the traveller at length reaches
the great square at Grand Cairo, and the picture presented is suffi-
ciently striking. There is nothing in the way of building which
deserves the name of fine architecture ; but the houses are lofty and
picturesque, and of every conceivable shape and size—with tall grace-
ful minarets shooting up in all directions. The Hotel d’Orient, the
principal one in Cairo, is in the great square, and is a large and very
showy building, though the establishment and style of living are
somewhat too French for an Englishman’s taste. There is an excel-
lent, though less conspicuous, English tavern close by. The area
enclosed by the great square is surrounded by a very wide and deep
ditch, which is filled with water during the inundation : fine rows
of acacia trees skirt it on both sides, and form a double avenue along
_ the road which intersects it. Vast crowds of people are at all times
in the neighbourhood, and this is almost the only place in Cairo where
there is abundant room for observing the passers-by. It is, indeed,
almost the only open space in this vast city, the thoroughfares of
which consist of narrow lanes, hardly anywhere deserving the name
of streets. The houses are so high, and the balconies above project
so far, that it is often difiicult to obtain a glimpse of the sky above.
The streets are almost everywhere crowded most densely with people.
Nimble donkeys, with jingling bells, trot rapidly along, threading their
way with extraordinary dexterity through the multitude. Lines of


WHAT TO OBSERVE ON THE OVERLAND JOURNEY. Xll
huge camels, with vast burdens on their sides, bear down upon you,
threatening to close up the pathway, and arrest the progress of the
living current. Contrasted with all this activity and bustle, is the
profound composure of the shopkeepers, who, in their richest dresses,
and with long flowing beards, recline beside their wares, smoking
their hukkas, or long cherry-stalked, amber-mouthed pipes, in a
state of apathetic unconcern.
Cairo is said to contain a population of 200,000 inhabitants:
it stands on a plateau about 40 feet above the level of the Nile,
and on the edge of the Desert. The citadel is one of the most
prominent objects of attraction, and can be examined, however
short the traveller’s stay. It was built about the year l17l, by
the lghalifah Yusuf $alahu’d-din, well known in the history of the
Crusaders as “the Magnificent Saladin.” A long ride through
narrow, crowded, and irregular lanes, past numerous mosques of
great magnitude and beauty, leads to the bottom of the steep wind-
ing ascent, at the extremity of which is the gate of the fortress.
The first object of attraction which it contains is a magnificent
mosque, which has now been ten years in process of construction.
It is still incomplete. It consists of an open square, surrounded by
a single row of 35 columns. In the centre of this is a superb
fountain, and on the east a lofty gate leads to the inner part of the
house of prayer. The extreme richness of its decorations does
not weary by sameness-—they are all symmetrical, tasteful, and
beautiful. The effect is even heightened by the burnished brass
mouldings which surround the base of the capital and top of the
basement of the column, though this combination of metal and
stone is one of the most unusual in masonry. The walls, which
consist of the common building-stone of Cairo, are everywhere
crusted over with a yellowish-white variegated horny-coloured
marble. It is brought a considerable way across the country,
having been discovered some fourteen years since at a place called
Wadi Moiihat, about 70 miles from the Nile, and is a travertine,
or fresh-water limestone, deposited from springs. The undulations
and coatings of the deposit form beautiful markings in the marble :
it is unfortunately not susceptible of a very high polish, and is often
defaced by small angular crevices, which, however, cease to be
observable a few yards off. It is brought in large blocks from the
quarry, and sawn into slices beside the building. The magnificent
granite columns which formerly surrounded Joseph’s Hall are lying
prostrate around. They were pulled down in 1827, to make room
for the mosque, and were in all likelihood originally the fragments
of some of the noble works of Egypt’s splendour in its earlier days.
They are of the same material as that of which Pompey’s Pillar
and Cleopatra’s Needles are composed. Just beyond the mosque are


xlii wan T0 onscsvs 0N ms ovsnnmn Jovnnsr.
the palace and harim of the Pasha—a neat, plain building, more
richly than tastefully fitted up and furnished, but quite worthy of
examination. The Mint is beyond this; and near it is Joseph’s
VVell, an excavation 260 feet in depth, a winding staircase leading
to the bottom. The reader must be reminded that the Joseph here
referred to is not the Hebrew patriarch, though commonly imagined
to be such, but the famous Sultan Saladin, by whom the Works
were constructed.
From the palace garden may be seen the spot where Emir Bey
leaped his horse over the wall, to escape the massacre which awaited
his brother Mamelukes on the 1st of March, 1811. Muhammad ’Ali
had prepared an expedition into Arabia, to chastise the Wahabis,
who had robbed and murdered the pilgrims on their way to Makkah.
The Mamelukes, impatient of a curtailment of their power, re-
solved to avenge and liberate themselves by the overthrow of the
government. Their secret was badly kept, and the Pasha was in-
formed of the plot hatching against him. He pretended to disbe-
lieve it altogether, and treated it as a slander against the Mamelukes.
His preparations being completed, he invited all his courtiers and
chiefs to the Citadel, to be present at the investiture of his son
with authority to be exercised during his absence. The beys of
the Mamelukes were received with the usual courtesy; but on
retiring, found the gates shut against them, while volleys of
musketry were poured in on them from every side. Horses and
riders fell in heaps. It is said that 440 were slaughtered in the
court, Emir Bey alone escaping. He remembered that a heap of
rubbish, thrown over the wall, had accumulated to a considerable
height near its base. He leaped his horse over: the animal was
dashed to pieces, but the rider escaped. He found shelter in the
tents of some soldiers near, and succeeded in making his way to
Constantinople. He survived till within these few years. The
beautiful aqueduct seen from the Citadel was originally built by
Saladin the Magnificent, in 1171, for the purpose of bringing water
from the Nile to supply the garrison: it was renewed and enlarged
in 1518.
The Nile.—Egypt, as is well known, consists of the fertile valley
of the Nile, and a strip of desert on each side. The Nile, formed by
streams coming out of Abyssinia on the south, is about 1500 miles in
length ; at certain places it forms rapids, or sloping cataracts, and at
other points encloses islands, interesting for their beauty or the ruins
which remain upon them. The remarkable phenomenon connected
with the N ilc, is its annual overflow of the banks which border it
-—an event looked for with as much certainty as the daily rising of
the sun. These inundations of the Nile are owing to the periodical
rains which fall between the tropics. They begin in March, but


Wrmr T0 OBSERVE or rm: OVERLAND Jouamsr. xliii
have no effect upon the river until three months later. Towards
the end of June it begins to rise, and continues rising at the rate of
about four inches a-day, until the end of September, when it falls
for about the same period of time. The towns are generally built in
such a situation and manner as not to be overflowed by the inunda-
tion, and in some parts of the country there are long raised cause-
ways, upon which the people may travel during the floods. It is
only in cases of an extraordinary rise that any villages are destroyed.
The inundations, instead of being viewed as a calamity, are con-
sidered a blessing, for they are the cause of inexhaustible fertility.
After the waters have subsided, the earth is found covered with
mud, which has been left there by the river. This mud, which is
principally composed of argillaceous earth and carbonate of lime,
serves to fertilise the overflowed land, and is used for manure for
such places as are not sufliciently saturated by the river; it is also
formed into bricks, and various vessels for domestic use. The whole
valley of the Nile may be considered as an alluvial plain, formed of
the washed-down mud and sand of Central Africa, and it is therefore
to these inundations that Egypt owes its existence.
Notwithstanding the overflow of the Nile, the atmosphere of-
Egypt is extremely dry and healthful. During our winter, the
climate of Egypt is delightful. The inhabitants speak with intense
affection of the Nile, for to it they owe the verdure of their fields,
their food, their drink, and the cotton for their clothing. In its
taste the water is delicious and it is also extremely salubrious.
The P;yramz'0ls are situated about ten miles from Cairo, i‘n a
western direction, and consequently on the farther side of the Nile.
The traveller may have the benefit of a carriage for the journey:
formerly, the only conveyance was by donkeys. The road leads by
Old Cairo, a decayed suburb of Cairo, at two miles’ distance, on the
banks of the river. The Nile is forded or crossed in boats at the
upper end of the island of Rhoda. When Within a couple of miles
of the end of the journey, a number of frightful-looking Bedouins
commonly make a rush from a large village a little way oil‘, as if
intent on mischief. They are men anxious to be employed as
guides; and they had better be employed at once, to save further
annoyance.
The Pyramids scarcely appear to increase in size until you are
close up to their base; then their bulk seems enormous, and the dis-
,tance betwixt the one and the other looks like a forenoon’s journey.
They are four in number in one view—three large and one small-
and are usually known as the Pyramids of Gizeh. They stand on a
plateau some 40 feet above the plain, and are fairly within the
Desert. The present base of the Great Pyramid of Cheops, as it is
called, is 746 feet each way; the mass is estimated at 85 millions of


xliv wnur 'ro onsssvs on rns OVERLAND JOURNEY.
cubic feet, and covers an area of 11 acres. Measured by the slope,
its height is 611 ft., and its perpendicular height 461 ft. The age
of the Pyramids is unknown, but it cannot be less than 3,000 years.
At a distance, the Pyramids appear to be tolerably smooth and
yramidal; but on coming close to them, they are found to have a
ragged and half-ruined aspect, in consequence of the outer coating
of stones and plaster having been removed. Their sides in this rough
state present the appearance of a. series of steps, composed of huge
blocks of yellowish-white limestone. The ascent is toilsome, and
the ledges of stone are uncomfortably high for a stair. Ladies
meaning to ascend, should provide themselves with a footstool, which
the guides may lift and hand up to them at each step. There are
altogether 206 tiers of stone, from one to four feet high. The top is
an irregular platform, 32. feet square; the stones constituting the
apex having been thrown down. On gaining this lofty eminence,
on which there is room to move about, the view on all sides is mag-
nificent. One of its most striking features is the distinctness of the
line which divides the fertile region from the Desert. There is no
middle ground—no debateable land, over which fertility and desola-
tion, the sand of Sahara and the silt of the Nile, alternately hold
sway. So far as the influence of the Nile extends, all is verdure;
the moment the sand begins, utter waste ensues.
It is necessary to make provision for refreshment, because there
is no house, tent, or village in the neighbourhood. The Great
Pyramid is not entirely solid. An entrance has been made, by which
a series of labyrinthian passages and chambers have been discovered.
The entrance is on the north side ; the journey in some places must
be performed on hands and knees. At the centre are two chambers
of red granite, in one of which is a sarcophagus; and here it is
thought was buried the king of what was the greatest kingdom of
the earth; the proud mortal for whom this mighty structure was
raised.
The ascent of the second Pyramid is seldom attempted by
visitors: it is much more diflicult than that of the first, especially
over that portion of the smooth granite crust which still remains
about 30 feet down. It is of somewhat less magnitude than the
other, but looks as large, from standing on higher ground. The
third of the group is considerably smaller. In the neighbourhood
of these grand objects of antiquity lie scattered about many interest-
ing remains. The most attractive of these is the Sphinx—-a gigantic_
figure, half-woman half-lion, nearly all hewn from the solid rock, the
fore-legs and part Jr the back only being built. There is an altar
between the two paws, on which sacrifices appear to have been
offered. From the lower part of the body to the top of the head,
the Sphinx measures 66 feet, the recumbent portion 102, the paws


WHAT TO OBSERVE ON THE OVERLAND JOURNEY. XlV
50, and the circumference of the head 100 feet. Such has been the
drifting of the sands, that the whole figure is now covered except
the head and a portion of the dilapidated neck.
The Petrffied Forest.-—This extraordinary curiosity is situated
eight or ten miles south from Cairo, and is reached by a journey
on the back of a donkey through a rugged country. The road lies
over a dry gravelly soil, without a particle of vegetation. Having
proceeded for some miles through a rocky valley, by a sudden turn
to the right a low range of sand-hills is crossed, and in less than a
quarter of an hour more the forest is reached. And such a forest!
Trees lying prone on the ground, and transformed into stone. The
world contains nothing more wonderful than this work of nature.
On every side the prostrate forest extends as far as the eye can reach.
Plains and rolling hillocks of sand sweep on and on to the horizon,
all strewed thickly over with fragments of fallen trees. They lie at
some places so close to each other that a. sure--footed Cairo donkey
can scarcely thread his way through them : at other places they are
few and far between, scarcely within stone-throw of each other, as
if those had been the thickets, these the openings, in the forest.
The trees are nowhere round in the surface, but sharp and angular,
as if split by heat into many fragments. Few pieces are more than
from four to six feet in length; but a series of these may often be
seen lying end to end for a space of from 50 to 60 feet, as if the tree
they constituted had been sawn or broken across,‘ the pieces remaining
in their places. The appearance of the fallen trunks is like that of
~ the half rotten bog-wood found in an Irish or a Scottish morass. In
hue, they are for the most part of a lightish chestnut brown; some
of them of a dusky-white, precisely of the colour of common ash or
pine long exposed to the weather. Of this tint are nearly all the
smaller fragments, which often lie about as if chipped off from the
larger ones. There are no fangs of roots or branches connected with
the stems, but there are the rudiments of both in abundance. The
knots indicating where branches once had been, are often of singular
beauty and distinctness; sometimes so much so, as to seem freshly
torn ofl' from the stem. The whole scene is the very picture of solitude
and desolation, enhanced beyond that of the ordinary Desert——which
leaves no token of ever having been more productive than it is—
inasmuch as the remains around must once have been fertility and
verdure. The trees, as already said, are mostly on the surface; many
of them, however, are half-buried, others barely show themselves
above the sand. The sand itself is light-coloured; the nodules of
stone intermixed with it are rounded; sea-shells everywhere abound-
ing. Near the edge of the forest there are what resemble the dry beds
of small-sized streams and torrents: here the little cliffs are of very
soft limestone, full of oyster-shells, so fresh and bright, that they


XlVl WHAT TO OBSERVE ON THE OVERLAND JOURNEY.
seem scarcely at all alfected by the weather. They are of the trans-
parent kind, nearly fiat, and scarcely thicker than common paper.
Selenite here abounds, as generally over the Desert, where sea-salt
prevails. It is here for the most part fibrous, the fibres being
horizontal, and at right angles to the axes of the vein.
As for the nature of the trees, they are not palms, as their
branches show; nor, perhaps, is any living race nearly akin to
them. They are completely silicified, ring like cast-iron, strike fire
with flint, and scratch glass. How has this transformation been
efi'ectedP By no chemical process now known to man. We have no-
thing at all analogous to it either in the laboratory of the chemist
or that of nature. There is no substance more indestructible than
that of charcoal. Cut off from air, it resists the most intense heats
known to us, and remains in the bowels of the earth unscathed for
millions of years! Here the whole woody and carbonaceous matter
has vanished, and in its place we find silica-—the earth of fiints,
a substance nearly insoluble, and by itself infusible by any heat
we are acquainted with. Yet so quietly and so perfectly has the
exchange been effected, that for every atom of charcoal that has
been displaced, an atom of flint has been left behind. Textures and
tissues so minute, that the help of powerful microscopes is required
for their detection—that their delineation can only be attempted
after they have been much magnified—are changed in substance, but
in substance only: the most minute and fragile of their forms remain
as when the green leaves and bright blossoms drew their sustenance,
and the vital fluids circulated through them. Egypt is the land of
hoar antiquity; but what are the wonders of the mummy-case to this?
The trees look as if they had fallen down, and been turned to stone
on the ground where they grew; they look “like to a forest felled
by mighty winds ;” they bear no marks of rolling or abrasion, such
as that by which flints themselves are rounded. Yet all is sea-sand
and shells everywhere; there is nothing to sustain vegetation; and
whether the theory, that they belong to an age previous to that of
the rock in which they are occasionally imbedded, be adopted or not,
it is clear that, subsequent to their assumption of their present form
and condition, the ground on which they now repose sunk beneath,
and rose again far above, the surface of the sea.
It is singular, considering the extent of area, and the diversity
of positions in the world over which silicified trees are found exposed
above ground, that so little has been written on the subject. In
Trinidad, in the West Indies, they are abundant; and they prevail
over a vast expanse of surface on the seaboard of New Holland.
They abound on the Coromandel coast near Madras; and in Sindh
are found from Sakkar to Karachi, on salt desert sand, resting on
nummulite limestone, exactly as in Egypt.


wrmr ro ossnavn on THE OVERLAND JOURNEY. xlvii
Cairo to Suez.—Only a few hours being allowed at Cairo, every
one should make his arrangements without unnecessary delay. Having
arranged at the Transit Oflice to get all luggage, a small bag excepted,
sent forward, and secured his place, the traveller may be considered
ready to start. . In hot weather, it is preferable to start from Cairo
in the afternoon, so as to travel all night.
The distance from Cairo to Suez is 85 or 86 miles; and as the
line of route is without any towns or villages, station-houses have
been erected for the accommodation of travellers, and for the chang-
ing of horses. As far as N o. 12 station-house is now performed by
rail. Refreshments are furnished here, and are usually of the most
sumptuous kind. Thence the journey is performed in vans, which
are of different sizes. For the greater part they are strong clumsy
machines, open all around, tolerably stuffed, but without springs-—
merely suspended on leathern straps. They have two wheels about
five feet in diameter; that is, one-third larger than those of a
common carriage. They are drawn by four horses, two being in
shafts, and two before them in traces. They are, in general, not
over-well trained, tempered, or conditioned; but, on the whole, get
on wonderfully well. The plan of the drivers generally is to urge
them to a good gallop for a mile or so, and then allow them a few
minutes to rest.
The Dese'rt.—There is but little of the Suez desert covered with
drift sand; it consists mainly of hard gravel, with a vast abundance of
loose stones in all directions. The vans seldom adhere very regularly
to any particular track, and the jolting is occasionally dreadful. In
the direction of Suez, as indeed in most other directions, unless when
approaching the Nile, you enter on the Desert at once. The bury-
ing-ground around the city is all sand; and the first step beyond
this the ground is as completely barren and desolate as it can be in
the heart of the Great Sahara itself. The route through might be
almost traced by the skeletons of camels; thousands and thousands
lie bleaching by the wayside. The surface of the ground is salt, and
covered with rounded pebbles, chiefly the Egyptian agate, and sea-
shells. Pieces of petrified wood, often of considerable magnitude,
lie strewed around ; and when the limestone rock shows itself above
the sand and gravel, it is generally perforated by the pkolas, or some
other variety of marine borer. The rocks, like those near Cairo,
abound in petrifactions—-beautiful specimens of crabs and star-fishes
being "amongst the most abundant. Little, nimble, fairy-looking
lizards, in colour very like the surface of the ground around them,
are occasionally to be seen in the Desert; also a curious variety of
serpent, with two horn-like processes protruding from the forehead.
There are numberless vultures and carrion crows, which feed on the
dead carcases of the animals who so frequently perish on the way


xlviii WHAT ro.oBssRvr: on ran ovrznnsrm JOURNEY.
across. Besides these, scarcely a living thing is to be seen. Here
and there are considerable quantities of the poisonous henbane, and
half-way betwixt Suez and Cairo numerous bushes of the prickly
acacia or camel-thorn. Just beyond the centre station is what is
called “the tree of the Desert,” a solitary acacia, 18 inches in
diameter, and with a stem 10 feet long, and a large, thick, bushy,
round top. This is seen at a vast distance from each side: to the
weary traveller it seems almost impossible to approach it, so long
is it before he reaches it after first seeing it.
The beautiful phenomenon known to sailors as “looming,” to
naturalists as mirage, equally visible in extremely cold as in warm
countries, is often seen in great perfection betwixt Cairo and Suez.
It is occasioned by the unequal temperature and refractive powers of
different strata of the atrnospher<.+objects being invariably elongated
or depressed, or a succession of images of them exhibited one over
another. Scoresby gives drawings of images of ships and icebergs
seen by him in the arctic regions--direct or reversed, or the one
and the other alternately—high up in the air. Pools, and lakes
of water, are occasionally seen to fill up the lakes and valleys; and
this is the shape the illusion most frequently assumes.
The portion of the road nearest to Suez is extremely rough, and
the path is covered on every side with large rounded stones; the
whole forming one of the most unsightly portions of the Desert.
Barren and arid as it is, it is curious to find fresh plants of the
water-melon species growing here and there on the most unfruitful-
looking spots. The leaves resemble in tint, form, and size, those
of the sweet-scented gera.nium._ The stems trail along the ground,
attaining a length of two or three feet. The fruit is the size
of a small apple, bright green, and very pretty. In many places
here the sand of the Desert is in process of solidification into rock.
The muriates and sulphates of the sea-salt, with which the soil is
charged, seem to act on the calcareous material abounding every-
where; and the result is a carbonate of soda and a sulphate of lime.
The last constitutes the cementing material: it is bright and shining,
in small plates or crystals, and yields readily to the finger-nail. A
specimen of the rock which is the result of this would most grievously
perplex a geologist not familiar with the process by which it is
formed. It consists of the sand and sea.-shells of the Desert—the
last of these, when near Suez, being all apparently perfectly recent
and identical with those now in the Red Sea; of the Egyptian
jaspers, which here mainly constitute the gravel of the Desert, and
are themselves the remnants of an abraded conglomerate of one of
the rock formations at hand; and of the oyster, nummulite, and other
shells of the different varieties of tertiary limestone, everywhere
presenting itself above the surrounding drift and alluvium. With


WHAT T0 OBSERVE ON THE OVERLAND JOURNEY. xlix
these heterogeneous materials, the bones of birds and animals now
existing in the country, or portions of the works of man, may occa-
sionally mingle, and present a conglomerate made up of as many
different kinds of material as can be collected together. This, it
must be recollected, is a process not confined to a few limited spots :
it is apparently in progress over vast expanses of surface in all parts
of the Desert towards the shore of the Red Sea. Though there is
no continuous rain, heavy showers occasionally fall near Suez; and
in the pools formed by them, fishes, some inches long, have been
found four or five miles from the sea.
When within four miles of Suck, you reach the edge of a per-
fectly level plain, diversified here and there by slight ridges and
hilloeks of sand and gravel, but the whole wearing the appearance
of one of the most recent upheavals--the Red Sea, at a geological
period comparatively recent, having obviously covered a large surface
now dry land. Close to Suez is the track where the Israelites crossed
the Red Sea. Wilkinson assumes the place to have been a little above
the harbour, at the camel ford, where the water then must have
been much deeper than now, and where the effects of “ a strong east
wind,” as described in Exodus, are now similar to what they seem
to have been from the account given of them in Holy Writ. The
extremity of the Red Sea is a few miles above the town, and thither
travellers sometimes proceed to have the pleasure of placing one foot
on African, and the other on Arabian ground.
Sues to Imlia.-—Suez is a poor, walled town, situated at the head
of the Red Sea, and sustains its existence principally by the trade of
the great caravans of pilgrims from Egypt in their journey to Makkah.
Latterly, it has come a little into note by being made the point
of embarkation for India. The Pasha built a very large and hand-
some hotel at Suez, the only respectable building in the place. The
water here is highly saline: it contains a considerable quantity of
pure alkali, and is well adapted for washing——that used by Euro-
peans for drinking is brought from the Nile. Coal is also transported
across the Desert from Cairo on camels, and here costs £6 a ton.
Quitting Suez, a long pull of nearly two miles through shallows
and intricate channels takes the traveller to the roadstead, where
the steamer awaits his reception-—the smoking funnel and roaring
steam giving note of preparation for a start. The Gulf of Suez,
which comes to a point a little way above the town, is about three
miles across at the place from which the steamer starts. The dis-
tance from Suez to Aden is 1,600 miles due south-east; that from
Aden to Bombay is 1,960 miles east and by north. Passengers to
Calcutta are accommodated in the magnificent steamers of the
Oriental Steam Navigation Company, each from 1,200 to 1500 tons
burden, and 400 to 500 horse-power. These vessels proceed straight


l WHAT T0 OBSERVE ON THE OVERLAND JOURNEY.
to Aden, this part of the route being common to both; then stretch
away south-east for Ceylon, nearly at right angles to the path
pursued by the Bombay vessels. The Bombay passengers are
conveyed by the packets or war-steamers of the Indian navy: a
portion of these are from 700 to 750 tons burden, and from 220 to
250 horse-power. Some very superior vessels, each of 1,200 and
400 horse-power, have been put on the line, and others of still
larger dimensions are in process of construction. The traveller to-
wards the East, who has been dragging by each remove a lengthen-
ing chain—who has found semi-tropical Europe at Gibraltar and
Malta, and fairly tasted of the Orient in Egypt—at length finds a
floating fragment of India before him at Suez. The talk becomes
exclusively of Bombay: inquiries are made after old places and
friends, and England is spoken of now as a distant country, not soon
to be seen again. The regulations as to dress, discipline, etc., are
the same in the Indian as in the royal navy; and the packets are in
all respects regarded as ships of war. To the old Indian, everything
looks familiar; to the visitor for the first time to the East, all seems
a fragment and foretaste of what is to come. Seldom, indeed, is
found so large a variety of races assembled in so narrow a compass.
The ofiicers, engineers, and regular seamen of the ship are English-
men, all dressed in man-of-war fashion. The pilots are Arabs, from
Aden or Mocha. Their costumes are beautifully picturesque, and
they are for the most part highly intelligent-looking men. Then
there are the sipahis of the Bombay Marine Battalion, smart, dark-
olive complexioned men, of a very low caste, in the common uniform
of the English soldier. The servants of the ship are mostly Portu-
guese, natives of the East, dressed in jackets and trousers of white
cotton, such as Europeans not in uniform usually wear in India.
The butler and head servants are generally Parsis or Muslims:
the Hindu is forbidden by his creed from sewing where his hands
might be defiled by the flesh of the sacred cow. The firemen are
mostly Muhammadans, or low-caste Hiud1'1s—strong active fellows,
who perform all the drudgery about the engine-room.
Fairly afloat on the Red Sea, there is little to attract the eye, the
shores being rocky, sandy, and lifeless. If the weather be clear, north
from Suez the towering summit of Sinai may be seen in the distance.
As the traveller proceeds southwards, he begins to be interested in
the changes presented by the firmament. A.t night the Southern
Cross becomes prominent amongst the constellations, and the beautiful
clouds of Magellan give nebulae of an aspect altogether different from
any he has seen before. The Great Bear is no longer seen to sweep
around the Pole; the tail becomes at times altogether invisible, the
four stars which constitute the quadrangle only keeping in view, and
the great land-mark, so to speak, by which the tyro astronomer


BRIEF GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF INDIA. ll
guides his way amongst the constellations, is for a period lost sight
of. The moon and planets again shine out with unusual splendour,
and there is the novel combination of a night sky intensely bright
without the sensation of cold. _
The middle channel alone is navigable for vessels of any con-
siderable burden. Vast margins on either shore are filled up with
coral to near the surface of the water. The scenes these present are
often beyond description beautiful. V
Keeping straight on its course down the middle of the Red Sea,
the steamer does not approach the land till the Straits of Babu’l
Mandab (Babel Mandel) make their appearance. Here the sea is
greatly narrowed, not only by the projections of land, but by the
island of Perim. The straits are closed in on both sides by rugged,
barren, burnt-looking rocks—the distance across being about three
miles. Pushing her way through one of the channels, the steamer
turns towards the left in a south-easterly direction, being now in
what is called the Sea of Babu’l-Mandab, which is a. portion of the
Indian Ocean. A series of picturesque and precipitous capes and
headlands, along the coast of Arabia-Felix, on the left, come in
view, and stretch away to the most prominent of them—Cape
’Adan (Aden).
Aden is situated in latitude 12° 47' north; longitude, 45° 9'
east. It is a wild, barren peninsula, composed of volcanic rocks,
and of no use except as a half-way house to India etd the Red Sea.
Within 200 yards of the landing-place there is an hotel, kept by a.
Parsi. It contains a large roomy hall, in which smoking is specially
forbidden, but always indulged in, with a very good verandah all
round, and good bedrooms and baths. There is a store for general
merchandise behind, and a billiard-room, close by.
Aden fell into our possession in 1839. It previously belonged
to the Sultan of Lahege, who was little better than a common
marauder, and in 1837 plundered a Madras vessel sailing under
British colours, which had the misfortune to go ashore. A collision
with Britain followed; and finally, after some fighting, and a
stipulation by treaty to pay the Sultan a few thousand dollars
annually, the place was taken possession of. The population has
since risen from 600 to above 10,000, besides the troops and their
followers from India; of these there are generally 3000 in garrison:
A traflic is kept up with the interior of Arabia by means of camels
and asses. There is good fresh water in wells in the cantonments,
but nowhere besides.
BRIEF GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF INDIA.
India lies between N. lat. 8° 4' and 36°, and E. long. 66° 44' and
99° 30', and contains, according to Thornton, 1,399,443 sq. miles,


III BRIEF GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF INDIA.
with a population of 172,399,235; according to Mills, 1,465,322
sq. miles, with 180,367,148 inhabitants ; according to the East India
House Statistical Returns of the 27th of July, 1857, 1,466,576 sq.
miles, with 180,884,297 inhabitants. This vast region is, more
than any other, formed by nature to be the storehouse of the world.
The magnificent chain of mountains that encircles it from N.W.
to N .E., consisting of the Himalayas to the N. and N .E., with
the Sulaiman and Hala ranges running down to the sea on the
W., supply abundant water to irrigate the whole of Upper India;
as, in like manner, the Vindhayan range, joined eastwards by the
Rajmahal hills and other lower ranges, and the E. and W. Ghats,
furnish sufiicient Water for the requirements of the Dakhan or S.
India. Thus India exhibits a series of great water sheds, in which,
or on adjoining hills, grain of all descriptions-cotton, sugar-cane,
indigo, tea, coffee, rice, opium, tobacco, oil-seeds, pepper, cardamoms,
ginger, capsicum, cumin, coriander, turmeric, and all kinds of vege-
tables and fruits, are, or may be, produced in inexhaustible quan-
tities. In its forests, India possesses resources superior to those of
any country in the world. The teak tree, the cocoa-nut tree, the
sago palm, and the sandal tree, are first of their kind in utility; and
innumerable trees, only second in value, might be mentioned. Iron,
the parent of all other metals, abounds; and coal exists in sufiicient
quantity. Precious stones of all descriptions are found in diflF'erent
localities; and in the number and variety of its animals, no region
of the earth is comparable with India. To man, the climate of India
is less favourable than that of the temperate zone; yet, amid the
variety of races which is found from the Himalayas to Cape Kumarin
(Comorin), some are not inferior in beauty to any that exist, as e.g.
the people of Kashmir, the Rajpfits, the Bilachis, and Jats, of Sindh,
and some of the Brahmans.
The traveller will find in India beauties of scenery and architec-
tural works inferior to none. The Himalayas transcend Mount
Blane as much as that giant and his brethren do the hills of Wales;
and in the Westem Ghats and the Nilgiris there are innumerable
spots, many, we may be sure, never yet explored by Europeans,
Whose loveliness cannot be surpassed. The Cataracts of Gerseppa
and of Gokak, the Falls of the Kavéri, and others, rank next to
Niagara. In Lake scenery alone is India deficient; and, in this
particular, there is nothing which can be enumerated in the same
list with the lakes of Switzerland, or even of the British Isles.
To the antiquarian and architect, the Cyclopean Tombs, the
Cave Temples, and the Pagodas of S. India, furnish inexhaustible
materials for study and research; and though differing from Euro-
pean edifices in character so widely as scarcely to admit of com-
parison, the Taj Mahall must be pronounced the gem of all art.


CHRONOLOGICAL TABLES. liii
Delhi, Agra, and Benares are rich in historical associations, and
present marvels which will many times repay the trouble and ex-
pense of a visit. Those, therefore, who have the means and the
leisure to travel can certainly find no region more attractive, or
Which, on every account, more deserves to be visited than India.
CHRONOLOGICAL TABLES.
The following tables supply the dates of the principal events in
Indian history :—






13.0.
Arrangement of the first nine Books of the Rig Veda (about) 1400
Composition of parts of the tenth Book (about) ............................. .. 1100
} Veda (about) ....................................................... .. 1000-800
Sutras Vaidik, comprising laws .................................... . .. ............. .. 1000
Sfitras of Philosophical system (about) 1200-800
Atharva Veda ................................. .. 800
Sakya Muni, birth .. 638
Death and Era 543
First Buddhist Convocation at Rajagrih . . . . . . .. 543
Voyage of Skylax down the Indus by order of Da us ystasp s . 490
Second Buddhist Convocation at Vesali .... ......... ..... .. 443
Alexander crossed the Indus, April .. .... .. .. .. 327
Chandragupta or Sandrakottus ............................ .. 315
Mission of Meyusthenes to the Court of Sandrakottus... 302
Ramayana .......................... .......... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 300
Asoka ............................ .. 270
Third Buddhist Convocation 249
Mahabharata 240
Laws of Manu... . 200
Menander . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 126
Ceylon Buddhistical Books .... .... ........... .. . . 104-76
.ZEra of Vikramaditya and of the Shakuntala ...... ...................... .. 57


Cave Temples at Era of Shalivahan ......
Sahd ast of Gujarat .
Trave of a-Hian..
Mahawanso ............... ..
Travels of Hiuan Tsang .. . . Puranas ....... ................................ ............. .. 800—1400
EARLY MUEIAMMADAN CONQUERORS OF INDIA AND THEIR. SUCCESSOB-3.
Muhammad Kasim conquers Sindh for the _K_halifah Walid ............. .. 711
Sabuktigin (Sabuctagi), surnamed Néziru ’d-din, Kin of Qhizni and
Qurasan, defeats J aypal, the Brahman King of N. . India 977


Ism’ail Ismaiel), second son of Sabuktigin, succeeds his father ............. .. 997
Mahmu I. (Mamood), eldest son of Sabuktigin, wrests the crown from
his brother ................................................................ 997
Eleventh invasion of India by this Prince, in which he plunders and
destro s Somnath ...... .................................. ................ .. 1022
Muhamma I. (Mahommed), son of Mahmud, succeeds ............... .... .. 1028
Mas'a\'id I. (Masaood), second son of Mahmud, dethrones his brother .... .. 1028


~
liv cnnonoroercu. TABLES.
Muhammad I. restored on the murder of Mas’aud by Ahmad the son of A.D.








Muhammad .. ........................... ................ .. .. . . . . . . . .. 1041 ~
Modud (Modood), son of Mas'aud.. 1041
Mas’aud II., son of Modfid (6 days) 1049
Interregnum of one year till ......... .. 1050
Abu'l Hasan ’Ali, son of Mas'aud I ...................... ...................... .. 1051
’Abdu 'r-rashid, son of Mahmud 1., succeeds, and is shortly after murdered
by one of his chiefs named Tughril ............ ................ .... .. 1052
Tughril (40 days), and is murdered .. .. 1052
Farrulg Zad, son of Mas’aud ............ .. 1052
Ibrahim 1., brother of Farruk_h Zad 1058
Mas'aud III., son of Ibrahim I. 1098
Arsilla, brother of Mas’a1id III. 1115
Bahram, son of Mas’aud III. .................................................... .. 1117
Death of Bahrém and extinction of the kingdom of (ihizni by the Princes
of (_}l1or ......................................................... ....... 1152
ran HOUSE or gum AT Linux.
I_{11usrau I. son of Bahram ................................................ 1152
Qusrau II., son of lfilusrau I. .............................. .. 1159
Muhammad (fliori takes Lahfir and dethrones lfliusrau II. ................ .. 1184
Muhammad defeats the Rajus of N. India on the banks of the Saraswati,
80 miles from Delhi, with dreadful slaughter ............................ .. 1193
Muhammad Ghori assassinated iu his tent on the banks of the N ilub by a
band of Gikkars . .... ........... ............................ 1206
rnr: snsvn DYNASTY.
Ku_t,b, an imperial slave, succeeds to the sovereignty of Lahur, and soon
after conquers Delhi ...................................................... 1206
A'ram, son of I_(u_t_b, King of Delhi ,_ 1210
Altamsh, a slave, but originally of a noble family 1210
Fir-uz Shah, son of Altamsh ..................... 1235
Sul_t_a.nah Rizia, eldest daughter of Altamsh.... . 1235
Bahram, son of Altamsh ......... ........... .. 1239
Mas’aud IV., son of Firuz .................. .. 1242
Mahmud II., ounger son of Altamsh 1245
Balin, Vazir o Mahmud ........ ........ .. 1265
Kai Kubad, grandson of Balin ......... .. 1286
Firuz II., Khil'y .......... ................................... .. 1289
Allahu ’d-din ., having murdered Firuz II., ascends the throne . 1295
’Umar, oungest son of Allah (but seven years old)....._...... .... 1316
Mubara , third son of Allah .. ........................ .. 1316
Mubarak murdered by his slave, _Khusrau..... 1321
Tu hlak I., a slave .............................. .. 1321
Mu_ammad III., son of Tughlak ...... .. . .. 1325
Firuz III., cousin of Muhammad III. .. 1351
Tughlak II., grandson of Firuz III ....... .............. 1388
Abu Bakr, grandson of Ffruz III., by his third son 1389
Muhammad IV., son of Abu Bakr ...................... 1389
Humayun or Sikandar. son of Muhammad IV. (45 days) .. 1392
Mahmud III., son of Muhammad IV. ..................................... 1393
Timur Lang (Tamerlane) conquers Hindustan, takes Delhi, and massacres
the inhabitants. He returns by way of Kabul to Samarkand, leaving
Khigr Viceroy of Multan, Lahur, and Dibalpur. Mahmud takes
refuge in Gujarat, but on T'1mur’s departure returns and re-ascends
the throne forashort time. ..... ..... .... ...... ......... 1397


MUHAMMADAN KINGs oF THE DAKHAN. lv
DYNASTY OF LODI. A.D.
Daulat Lodi............ • - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 1413
Khizr, (This Prince claimed to be a Saiyid, and he and the three following
Emperors do not belong to the Lodi dynasty).............................. 1414
Mubarak II, son of Khizr.............................................. - * * * * * * * * * * * * * 1421
Muhammad V., grandson of Khizr (Mubarak being assassinated by the
Wazir) ....................................... * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * . . . . . . . • 1433
Allâhu'd-din II., son of Muhammad W. .. ... 1447
Beloli (an Afghan of the tribe of Lodi)..... ... 1450
Nizām or Sikandar I., son of Beloli ..... ... 1488
Ibrahim II., son of Sikandar I.............................................. • • - - - - - - - 1516
HoUSE of TíMúR, or MUGHULs.
Bábar, son of Amir, son of Abū Said, son of Muhammad, son of Mirán
Shāh, son of Timür................. • * * * * * * * * * * * • - - - - - - - - - - - - • * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 1525
Humāyūn, son of Babar............................................................... 1530
Shir or Farid, an Afghan of the Sur tribe, expels Humāyún, who takes
refuge with Shāh Tahmāsp, king of Persia........................ ......... 1542
Salim (Selim) or Jalāl, younger son of Shír................. 1545
Firúz, son of Salim (three days, murdered by Mubarak):.............: •-
Mubarak or Muhammad’Adil, nephew of Shir, styled Muhammad VI. ... 1552
Ibrahim III., cousin of Muhammad................................................ 1552
Humāyún restored ..................... • • -
Akbar the Great.......................
Salim or Jahāngir, son of Akbar ....................... • • • • • - - - - - • •
Khurram, third son of Jahāngir, and known as Shāh Jahān..
Aurangzib or ’Alamgir, third son of Sháh Jahān, ..............................
Muhammad M'uzim, second son of Aurangzíb, and known as Bahádur Shāh 1707
Mu’azza'd-din or Jahāndār Shāh, eldest son of Bahádur Shāh.... ... 1712
Farrukhsiyar, son of ’Azim, second son of Bahádur Shāh ..................... 1713
Rafi'au'd-darjat, son of Rafi'au-sh-Sháh, third son of Bahádur Shāh (a
few days)................................ • * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * • • * * * * * * 1717
Muhammad Shāh, son of Jahān, son of Bahádur Sháh.. ...... 1718
Nadir Sháh takes and sacks Delhi............................ ... 1739
Ahmad Shāh, son of Muhammad Sháh.................................. 1747
'Iyázu'd-din, son of Jahāndār Shāh, and known as 'Alamgir II. . . 1753
Interregnum ............ • - - - - - - - - - - ** - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
'Ali Gauhar, known as Shāh ’Alam ..... .... . 1761
Akbar, son of Shāh ’Alam. ... 1806
Muhammad Bahadur.................................................................. 1837
ABSTRACT OF THE HISTORY OF THE MUHAMMADAN KINGS WHO RULED
IN THE DAKHAN.
Abú'l-Muzaffar Yūsuf ’Adil Sháh, the founder of the Adil Shahi
dynasty of Wijayapur, was the son of Aghā Murád or Amurath II.,
Emperor of Rüm, i.e. Asia Minor. His elder brother, on his acces-
sion, ordered him, then an infant, to be strangled; but his mother
substituted a slave, and sent him out of the country. He was
educated at Sava, and of his own accord passed through Persia to
India, and was there sold as a Georgian slave at the age of 17 to
Mahmūd Gawān, minister of Muhammad Shāh Bāhmaní II. He


~
lvi ‘MUI_iAMMADAN xnres or THE DAKHAN.
soon distinguished himself; and when Nigamu ’l-Mulk was slain at
Kehrla, in 1467, Yfisuf took command of the army of the Dakhan.
After the death of Muhammad Shah, in 1489, he retired from Bidar
to Vijayapur, and declared himself independent. In 1493 he de-
feated the Raja of Vijayanagar, and took 200 elephants, and, it is
said, two millions of pounds sterling, and this accession of wealth
confirmed his power. One of’his first steps was to surround his
capital, Vijayapur, with a stone rampart. In 1497, he betrothed
his infant daughter to Ahmad, the son of Mahmad Shah Bahmani ;
and in 1504 defeated and slew in battle Dastiir Dinar, the Governor
of Kulbarga and Sagar. whose province he annexed to his own
dominions. At the same time, ’Ainu ’l-Mulk Gilani, who held the
Konkan and all the sea-board, did homage to him as his vassal, so
that he now assumed the title of Shah, and caused the Ehutbah
to be read in his own name, this being the mark of royalty. In
1510 he re-took Goa from the Portuguese, who had captured it that
year; shortly after which success he died.
The first event of importance in the reign of Ism’ail Shah, who,
when he succeeded his father, Yiisuf, was yet a child, was the final
surrender of Goa (which had been retaken by Albuquerque on the
25th of Nov., 1510) to the Portuguese, on condition of their attempt-
ing no further encroaehments. This eession was made by the advice
of the Regent, Kamal Q1511, who shortly after began to aspire to
the throne. He imprisoned Ism’ail and his mother, and had resolved
on putting them to death, when he was himself assassinated by one
of their friends. A struggle ensued, in which Ism’ail was saved
by his mother and his foster-aunt, who, clad in armour, rallied a
few troops, and fought round the young sovereign, with the skill
and intrepidity of men. In 1514 the young monarch had to defend
his capital against Mahmad Shah Bahmani, or rather Amir Barid,
the minister and virtual king, who advanced with 25,000 men
against him. These he defeated at All-ahpur, 1% miles from Vijaya-
pur, and took Mahmad and his son Ahmad prisoners. He treated
his captives with respect, released them, and gave to Ahmad his
sister, who had been betrothed to him 17 years before. A war
broke out with Vijayanagar in 1519, and here Isma’il, imprudently
crossing the Krishna with a small force when heated with wine, was
defeated, and 242 elephants and many of his soldiers were drowned.
The same year he received an embassy with the present of a sword
from Shah Ism’ail Safavi of Persia. In 1524 he gave his sister
Maryam to Burhan Shah of Ahmadnagar, but neglecting to make
over the districts of Sholapur, which he had allotted as her dowry,
a war ensued, and in 1525 Ism’a1'l defeated his brother-in-law with
great slaughter, and took his royal standard. In 1528 he again
defeated Burhan Shah, and next year took Bidar, where, however,


~* ~'
MUIIASIMADAN KINGS or run naxrmu. lvii
he still suffered the pageant king, Allahu ’d-din II., to reside. In
1531 he again defeated the King of Ahmadnagar, and three years
after closed a glorious reign of 25 years with a peaceful death.
The 1'eigns,._ of his sons, Malii and Ibrahim, present no events
that require to be noticed. Ibrahim was succeeded by his son ’Al1',
who formed an alliance with Ram Raja of Vijayanagar, and with
him ravaged the territories of Ahmadnagar. Subsequently he joined
a coalition of Muslim princes against the Réja, and with Husain
Ni_z_é.m Shah of Ahmadnagar, Ibrahim Ku_t_b Shah of Golkonda,
and ’Ali Barid of Bidar, fought the great battle of Talikot on the S.
bank of the Krishna on the 25th of January, 1565. In this battle
the army of Vijayanagar was completely destroyed, and it is said
100,000 Hindiis fell by the sword. Ram R-aja was taken prisoner
during the conflict, and his head struck off and exhibited on a pole
by command of Husain Nigam Shah. A sculptured representation
of it to this day forms the opening of one of the sewers of the citadel
of Vijayapur, and the real head itself was long annually exhibited
on the anniversary of the battle, covered with oil and red pigment,
to the pious Muhammadans of Ahrnadnagar, by the descendants of
the executioner, in whose hands it remained. After their victory,
the Kings marched on Vijayapur, which they sacked and razed,
so that it never afterwards recovered.
In 1568, according to Firishtah, but two years later according
to the Portuguese writers, ’Ali Shah attacked Goa, but was repulsed
with great loss. In the same year he took Adhwani, a fortress
which had hitherto been deemed impregnable. He subsequently
took Dharwad and Bankapur, and in 1577 compelled the brother of
Ram Raja of Vijayapur to retire with his treasures and effects to
the fortress of Chandragadi in the Karnatak. Two years after, he
was assassinated—by a eunuch who had been the favorite of ’Ali
Barid Shah, king of Bidar, and who was surrendered to him as the
price of his aid in a war with the king of Ahmadnagar--after a
fortunate reign, leaving the grand cathedral, mosque, and many
other buildings, to attest his magnificence, which they do to this
da .
y’A1i Shah was succeeded by his nephew Ibrahim ’A'dil Shah II.,_
son of Tahmasp, the younger brother of the late king. In 1586,
Ibrahim married the sister of Kuli Kutb Shah of Golkonda. In
1589, his minister and general, Dilawar Igién, was defeated by
Jamal Iihan of Alimadnagar. In this battle, the historian, Muham-
mad Kasim Firishtah Astarabadi, who was with Dilawar 1_(hé.n, was
wounded and taken prisoner.
Ibrahim was a prince of great justice, as well as firmness and
resolution, which he showed in a successful war with Ahmadnagar,
and in escaping from the thraldom of his minister, Dilawar Em,
‘ d


—??—___--—
lviii nnnsmnsnsn KINGS or rnr. nsxnsy.
He was also humane, for the time and country in which he lived;
yet, after quelling a dangerous insurrection raised by his only brother,
Ism’ai1, and one of his nobles, ’Ainu’l-Mulk, he found it requisite
to put them both to death. This happened in 1593. Two years
after Ibrahim’s general, Hamid Khan, defeated and slew in action
Ibrahim Nigam Shah, King of Ahmadnagar, and with this event
Firishtah’s history of the ’A'dil Shahi kings closes abruptly.
Ibrahim ’A’dil Shah II. died in 1626, and his mausoleum “is
the most perfect (see Grant Duff) and beautiful of the many build-
ings which remain among the ruins of Vijayapur to attest its former
grandeur.” He left his son, Muhammad ’A'dil Shah, who succeeded
him in the sixteenth year of his age, a full treasury, and an army
which is stated at 80,000 horse and 200,000 foot. In 1635 Vijaya-
pur was besieged by Kl_1zin Dauran, the general of the Emperor
Shah Jahan; but the following year Muhammad ’A'dil Shah was so
fortunate as to conclude an advantageous peace, by which he gained
the province of Kalyani and the whole of the country between the
Bhima and Nira rivers, as far north as Chakan. For these districts,
however, he was to pay a tribute of 20 lakhs of pagodas. Soon after
this peace Shahji, the father of the famous Sivaji, took service with
Muhammad ’A'dil Shah, and the Marathas began to make a promi-
nent figure in the wars of the Dakhan. Muhammad died at Vijaya-
pur on the 4th of November, 1656, and his son, ’Al[ ’A'dil Shah,
then in his nineteenth year, succeeded him. In March, 1657,
Aurangzfb and Mir Jumlah laid siege to Vij ayapur, and would have
taken it but for the civil war breaking out between Aurangzib and
his brothers. In October, 1659, Sivaji murdered the Vijayapur
general, Afgal lfiian, at Pratapgarh, and destroyed his army, taking
4,000 horses, several elephants, camels, a considerable treasure, and
all the camp equipage. From this time may be dated the rise of the
Maratha power, which was soon to eclipse, and finally to extinguish,
that of the Muhammadans in India. At the close of 1662 Sivaji
had wrested from Vijayapur, notwithstanding the vigor and personal
bravery of Muhammad ’A’di1 Shah, the whole of the Konkan from
Kalyan to Goa, while his territory extended inland about 100 miles.
He occupied this province with 50,000 foot and 7,000 horse. On
the 5th of January, 1664, he, with 4,000 horse, sacked the city of
Surat, and on his return heard of the death of his father, Shahji, by
which he acquired a claim to the Forts of A'rni and Porto N ovo, and
the province of Tanjur, these having been conquered and held by
Shéhji. On this Sivaji assumed the title of Rajé. and caused coins
to be struck in his own name. Next year his inroads into the
imperial territories brought upon him the Mughul army under
Aurangz1'b’s general, the Raja Jay Singh, who laid siege to Purandhar.
The garrison were soon reduced to extremities, but before they capitu-


MUHAMMADAN xmes or THE mnnan. lix
lated Sivaji concluded a treaty, called the Convention of Purandhar,
by which he surrendered to the Mughuls 20 forts he had taken from
them, retaining 12 to be held as a fief from the Emperor. A revenue
also of five lakhs of pagodas was assigned to him, to be levied on
Vijayapur, and his son Sambhuji received a command of 5,000 horse
in the imperial army. Sivaji then joined Jay Singh’s army with
2,000 horse and 8,000 foot, and co-operated with him against
Vijayapur, and for his services received a letter of thanks, and an
invitation to Court from Aurangzib. Accordingly he set out for
Delhi in March, 1666, and effected his memorable escape from
thence in November of the same year. From this time till the day
of his death on the 6th of April, l680,* his history is one of con-
tinued successes over the forces of Vijayapur and Delhi.
Muhammad ’A'dil Shah died in December, 1672, and left a son,
Sultan Sikandar, five years old, and a daughter, Padshah Bibi.
Lhawas Qan was appointed Regent, but three years after, on con-
senting to give Padsh-ah Bibi to one of the sons of Aurangzib, and to
hold Vijayapur as a province of the Mughul empire, he was assassi-
nated by a faction headed by ’Abdu’l Karim, who then assumed the
office of Regent. He held oifice till January, 1678, when he died,
and was succeeded by Mas’a\'1d Khan. The Mughul army, under
Dilir _K_h-an, now advanced against Vijayapur, and in spite of the
generous devotion of Padshéh Bigam, who surrendered to the enemy
in order to remove that ground of contention, they laid siege to the
city; partly, however, owing to the vigorous resistance of the
defenders, partly through the harassing attacks of the Marathas,
Dilir l{_l_1an was compelled to retire, and was soon after attacked by
a Maratha army and completely defeated.
The extinction of the ’Adil Shahi dynasty was thus deferred till
1 686, when Aurangzib in person besieged Vijayapur with a vast army,
and took it on the 15th of October of that year. The young prince
Sikandar was kept a close prisoner for three years in the Mughul
camp, when he died suddenly, not without suspicion of having been
poisoned by Aurangzib.
Sul_t_én Kali Ku_t_b Skdh, the founder of the _K'u_t_b Shéhi dynasty,
was a Turkaman chief of the Baharhi tribe, and of the ‘Ali Shakar
persuasion. He was born at S’adébé.d, a village in the province of
Hamadan, and came to seek his fortune in the Dakhan towards the
close of Muhammad Shah Bahmanfs reign. He was soon ennobled
by the title of Kut_bu’1 Mulk, or “Pillar of the State,” and made
governor of Telingana; and when Yfisuf ’Adil Shah and others threw
ofl' their allegiance to the Bahmani family, he, being then general in
chief, caused the public prayers to be read in the name of the 12
° According to Wilks and Grant Dufl’; in 1682, according to Orme and Mill.


~
IX MUIIAMMADAN KINGS OF THE DAKHAN.
Imams; or, in other words, changed the public confession of faith
to that of the Shi’ahs. In 1512 .s.n., under the weak government
of Mahmiid Shah, he declared his independence, and assumed the
title of King of Golkonda, the name of a village where he built his.
capital, and called it _Mul_1ammadnagar, after Muhammad Shah
Bahmani, but the original name prevailed. In the commencement;
of his reign he was incessantly occupied in reducing the Hindii
Rajas of Telingana till the year 1533, when Ism’ail ’1Xdil Shah
entered his country and laid siege to the fort of Kalyani. A peace,
however, was concluded through the mediation of Burhan Nigam
Shah. In 1543, in the ninetieth year of his age, Sultan Kuli Kutb
Shah was assassinated by a slave, or, according to another account,
by Mir lllahmiid Hamadani, Governor of Golkonda, at the instiga-
tion of his second son, J amshid. He left three other sons, Ku_t_bu’d-
din, Haidar, from whom the present city of Haidarabad takes its
name, and Ibrahim.
The parricide Jamshid Ku_t_b Shah now ascended the throne, and
caused his elder brother, I_§u_t_bu’d-din, to be blinded. Sometime
after a war broke out between the kings of Vijayapur and Ahmad-
nagar, and Jamshid supported the latter, but was defeated in several
engagements by Asad I_Q1an, the Vijayapur general, from whom he
received a sabre wound which cut off the tip of his nose and his
upper lip, disfiguring him for life; though, according to another
account, it was his father, Sultan Kuli, who was so wounded, and
not Jamshid. Towards the close of his reign his temper became so
morose that his younger brothers fled to Bidar, where Haidar died.
Ibrahim then fled to Vijayanagar, but hearing of Jamshid’s death,
which took place in 1550 A.D., he returned to Golkonda and was
proclaimed king, thus putting aside Subhan Kuli, the infant son, of
J amshid, who had been for a few months on the throne.
Ibrahim Kutb Shah was a prince of great personal valour. When
at Vijayanagar, he killed in a duel with swords Ambar Quin, an
ofiieer in the pay of that court, and on the slaughtered man’s brother
taking up the quarrel, Ibrahim slew him also. In his public wars,
however, Ibrahim showed more craft than courage. In 1558 he
joined Husain Nigam Shah, King of Ahmadnagar, in a war with
Vijayapur, but deserted his ally before any encounter took place, and
soon after joined ‘Ali ’Kdil Shah and Ram Raja of Vijayapur in
besiegingAl_1madnagar. After the fall of that city, with characteristic
inconsistency, Ibrahim again united his forces to those of Husain
Nigam Shah, and in 1564 laid siege to Kalyani, a fort belonging to
Vijayapur, and, in consideration of this aid, obtained the hand of Bibi
J amali, the daughter of Husain Shah. Next year he marched with
the other Muhammadan kings of the Dakhan against Vijayanaga.r,-
and was present at the capture of the place, and defeat and death


MUHAMMADAN KINGS OF THE DAKIIAN.
of the Raja. Afterwards, while in alliance with Murtaza Nigam
Shah, of Ahmadnagar, in a war with ’Ali ’1¥dil Shah, of Vijayapur,
he made overtures to the latter, who forwarded his letter direct to
Murta_za. Incensed at this treachery, Murtaza sent abody of horse
to attack Ibrahim’s camp, which they surprised, and took from him
150 elephants, at the same time putting the flower of his army to
the sword. In order to check the pursuing enemy, his son, ’Abdu’l
Kadir, asked leave to head an ambuseade and make a counter-
surprise; but Ibrahim, jealous of the young prince, ordered him to
be confined and then poisoned. He himself died suddenly, A.D. 1581,
after a reign of 32 years, leaving six sons and thirteen daughters.
He had greatly adorned his capital, Golkonda, and fortified it anew.
Among his public works the ]_§[usain Sagar Tank and the Kala
Chabutarah, or Black Terrace, at Golkonda, may be particularly
mentioned.
The ’Imdzl Skdhz’ dynasty of Berdr was founded by Faflmlldk,
originally a Hindu boy of Vijayanagar. Having been taken pri-
soner by the Muhammadans, he was enrolled in the body-guard of
K_han Jahan, governor of Berar, who raised him to oflices of dis-
tinction. After Khan Jahan’s death, he repaired to the camp of
Muhammad Shah Bahmani, and, through the influence of Mahmud
Gawan, received the title of ’Im-adu-l Mulk, “ Pillar of the State,”
whence his subsequent title of ’Imad Shah. He declared himself
independent in 1484 4.1)., and shortly afterwards died, and was
succeeded by his eldest son, Allahu’d-din.‘
This prince fixed his royal residence at Gavel. When Mahmud
Shah Bahmani fled from the persecutions of Amir Barid, A1lahu’d-
din marched to his aid, but Mahmud deserted his ally in the heat
of the action which ensued. Sometime after, Allahu’d-din having
got possession of the forts of Mahur and Ramgarh by treachery, was
involved in a War with Burhan Nigam Shah of Ahmadnagar, who
utterly defeated him, and wrested from him the two forts. Al1ahu’d-
din had married the daughter of Ism’ail ’A'dil Shah, but that
monarch being at war with Vijayanagar was unable to assist him.
In 1527, however, Allahu’d-din, with Miran Muhammad, governor
of Khandesh, marched against Burhan N i_7_.am Shah to revenge his
defeat, but was again routed with the loss of all his elephants and
guns. Miran Muhammad then called in the aid of Bahadur Shah,
king of Gujarat, and swore fealty to him, as did Allahu’d-din.
Bahadur Shah advanced upon Ahmadnagar, and compelled the king
to acknowledge him as paramount, and had coins struck there in his
own name. Shortly afterthis, Allahu’d-din died and was succeeded
by his eldest son, Darya ’Imad Shah, who gave his daughter, Bibi
Daulat, in marriage _to Husain Nigam Shah of Ahmadnagar. His
reign appears to have been one of great tranquillity. He was sue-


lxii MU1_1AMMADAN KINGS or rm: DAKHAN.
ceeded by his son, Burhan ’Im-ad Shah, then a child. The regent,
Tufal gas, soon usurped the throne, and confined the young prince
in irons in the fort of Narnala. He was, however, himself made
prisoner by Murtana Shah of Ahmadnagar, who is said to have
destroyed him and Burhzin ’Imad Shah, together with their whole
families, amounting to 40 persons, by confining them in a close
dungeon on a hot night. Berér thenceforward became an appanage
of Ahmadnagar.
The founder of the Mgam Sindhi dynasty of Ahmadnagar was
Malik Ahmad Mgdm Sheik, the son of Malik N aib Ni;.{amu’l Mulk
Bahri. This Nigamu’1 Mulk was originally a brahman of Vijaya-
nagar, and his real name was Timappa; but having been captured
in his infancy by the army of Ahmad Shah Bahmani, he was
brought up among the royal slaves as a Muhammadan, and named
Hasan. The King was so struck with his abilities that he gave
him to his son Muhammad Shah as companion; and when that
Prince succeeded to the throne, Hasan rose to the first ofiices of the
state, with the titles of Ashraf Hurnayiin and Nigamu’l Mulk.
After the assassination of Iihwajah Mahmud Gawain, he succeeded
him as prime minister; but was himself assassinated at Bidar, by
Pasaud Khan, in the year 1486. Malik Ahmad, at the time of his
father’s death, was in charge of Junir, Bir, and other districts near
Daulatabad; he had already displayed uncommon vigor in his
operations, and had reduced a number of hill forts, and the whole of
the Konkan, and was besieging the seaport of Danda Réjpur, when
the tidings of Ni_z_5.mu’l Mulk’s murder reached him. Returning
forthwith to Junir, he assumed the titles of the deceased, and began
to act as an independent prince. Mahmud Shah Bahmani despatched
an army against him, under Shel_(_h Muwallid, and Zainu’d-din, the
governor of Chakan, a neighbouring fortress, when Ahmad suddenly
escaladed the walls, having made a rapid counter-march at night.
He himself was the first to ascend, and 17 of his comrades in full
armor secured their footing before the garrison were alarmed. The
assailants continued to swarm up, and in spite of a desperate resist-
ance, Chzikan was taken, and Zainu’d-din and 700 of his men cut to
pieces. Ahmad next made a night attack on Shelgi Muwallid’s
camp, and slew him and the flower of his army, taking all the ele-
phants, tents, and baggage.
Mahmud Shah now sent forward another army of 18,000 men,
under ’A_z_amatu’1 Mulk, but Ahmad Shah passed him with 3,000
horse, and arriving suddenly at Bidar, gained over the guard, was
admitted, and carried off, not only the females of his father’s family,
but also those of the principal ofiicers now in arms against him. ’Ag_a~
matu’l1\Iulk was then disgraced, and Jahangir K_han appointed to
succeed him; but on the 28th of May, 1490 s.n., Ahmad made a


uniguummm xnms or THE nsxnm. lxiii
night attack upon his camp, and put to the sword, or made prisoners,
the greater part of his army. Jahangir himself, and many of his
chief oflicers, were among the slain. Ahmad Shah, in commemora-
tion of this victory, which was called the “ Victory of the Garden,”
built a. palace, the ruins of which still exist at Ahmadnagar. He
laid out there an elegant garden, which was beautified by his suc-
cessors, surrounded with a fortification, and called Bagh Nigam.
Moreover, being now placed by his successes beyond all risk of re-
duction, he assumed the white canopy, and directed his own name
to be substituted for the Bahmani king in the public prayers. In
1493, Ahmad, at the solicitation of Kasim Barid, compelled Yiisuf
’A'dil Shah to raise the siege of Bidar. He then himself unsuccess-
fully besieged Daulatabad for two months. Next year, 4.1). 1494,
he laid the foundation of a new capital for his dominions, which he
called Ahmadnagar, or “the city of Ahmad.” It was built on the
banks of the Sena river, and near the palace of the Bdgi Nigdm.
In the meantime, Malik Ashraf, the governor of Daulatabad, had
called in the aid of Mahmiid Shah Begarha, king of Gujarat. This
led to more than one campaign between Ahmad Nigam Shah and
Mahmfid in 1499 and the following years; but at length the garrison
of Daulatabad deposed their commander, and surrendered to Ahmad
Shah. In 1508 A.D. Ahmad Shah died. He was an able general
and politician, and renowned for his justice. Among other accom-
plishments he was an expert swordsman, and used to permit young
men to exhibit their prowess before him in single combat, till the
practice grew to such a height that one or two perished every day.
The king then discountenanced these fights; but duelling had taken
such firm root that it spread all over the Dakhan, insomuch that
Firishtah tells us he himself saw two brothers, respectable grey-
bearded men, and the son of one of them, engage three other grave
and elderly gentlemen, who were also brothers, -with such fury that
all six combatants were slain.
Burhan N igam Shah, the son of Ahmad, ascended the throne in
his seventh year. At ten he was an accomplished scholar for those
days, and Firishtah mentions having seen in the Royal Library, at
Ahmadnagar, a work on the duties of kings, copied by him at that
early age. In 1510, he was present, mounted on the same horse
with his tutor, at the battle of Ramiri, when his troops entirely
defeated the army of ’Imadu’l Mulk, king of Berar. A peace fol-
lowed this victory, but hostilities were soon recommenced, in conse-
quence of a claim to the district of Patri, in the Berar dominions,
preferred by Burhan Shah, whose ancestors had been the brahman
accountants of the place, before they moved to Vijayanagar, where
Nigamifl Mulk, the grandfather of Burhan, had been taken prisoner,
and converted to Islam. It is a striking proof of the importance


~
lxiv MU]_£[AMMADAN runes or THE DAKHAN-
attached to such hereditary ofiices in Hindiistan, that, after a change
of faith, and after rising from a private station to a throne, the
family of Burhan Shah should have perseveringly made war to
recover this district. In 1523, Burhan married Bibi M-aryam, the
sister of Ism’ail ’A'dil Shah; in 1524 he attacked his brother-in-
law, in conjunction with the kings of Bidar and Berar, but suffered
a sanguinary defeat. In 1527 he took the fort of Patri and razed
it to the ground, giving over the district in charity to his relatives,
the brahmans, in whose hands it continued for several generations.
’Imad Shah then called in the aid of Bahadur Shah, king of Gujarat,
who occupied Ahmadnagar, taking up his quarters in Burh-an’s
palace, and compelled him to submit to a disadvantageous peace.
Burhan Shah, in short, acknowledged himself the vassal of the king
of Gujarat, and even submitted to stand in his presence. In 1531
he invaded the dominions of Ism’ail ’A'dil Shah, but was totally
defeated by him, with the loss of 4,000 men. In 1537 he was more
successful, and took 100 elephants and some guns from the king of
Vijayapur. In 1542 he made another successful campaign in the
same territory; but, in 1546, he was defeated by Ibrahim ’A'dil
Shah, with the loss of 250 elephants and 170 guns. In subsequent
campaigns against Vijayapur he was very successful; but in 1553,
while besieging the capital of that name, he was seized with a
mortal disease and returned to Ahmadnagar to die. His body was
sent to the holy Karbala-a in Persia, and entombed near the burial-
place of Husain, the grandson of the prophet.
Husain Ni_z_am Shah, the eldest son of Burhan, succeeded his
father at the age of 13 years. The beginning of his reign was dis-
turbcd by the pretensions of his half-brother, Shah Haidar, whose
rebellion he quelled in spite of the support given to the pretender
by Ibrahim ’A'dil Shah. In 1557 he gave his daughter in marriage
to the king of Berar. In the same year his capital was besieged by
the united forces of Vijayapur, Golkonda, and Vijayanagar, and
Husain was compelled to accept a very ignominious peace. In 1562
he gave his eldest daughter to Ibrahim Ku_t_b Shah, and with him
laid siege to Kalyani, which the king of Vijayapur had wrested
from him. ’Ali ’A'dil Shah, however, called to his aid Ramraj
of Vijayanagar and the kings of Bidar and Berar, and inflicted a
signal defeat on Husain, taking from him 660 pieces of cannon, and
among them the celebrated gun of Vijayapur, the largest piece of
brass cast ordnance in the world (see Vijayapur in Bombay Pre-
sidency), which had been cast by Chalebi Rami Qian at Ahmad-
nagar. Three days afterwards he was again put to the rout and
lost his few remaining guns. The enemy pursued him to Ahmad-
nagar, which they entered, and the Hindii soldiers of Ramraj com-
mitted every species of atrocity there. They were unable, however,


nunsnn.-roan KINGS or run mxnsn. lxv
to take the fort; and, after beleaguering it for some time, the siege
was raised by an extraordinary flood of the Sena, which is said to
have swept away 25,000 of Ramra_]"s troops. In 1564 Husain N i_z_am
joined the Muhammadan league against Ramraj, who encountered
them with an immense host, said by Firishtah to have consisted of
2,000 elephants, 70,000 horse, and 900,000 infantry! but was
defeated and slain. Husain Nigam Shah died at Ahmadnagar in
1565, soon after this victory, of a disorder brought on by excess.
The son of Husain, Murtaga Nigam Shah, was yet a minor,
when by his father’s death he became king. His mother, I_{hunza
Sultanah, acted as Regent, and conducted in person an invasion of
the Vijayapur dominions, and afterwards of Berar. In 1569 he
caused his mother to be seized and began to act for himself. Shortly
after, he began to display that blind violence which obtained for him
the name of Diwanah, “the madman.” Being enraged with Kish-
war Quin, the governor of the fort of Dhariir and General of the
Vijayapur forces, he charged up to the gates at full gallop, amid a
shower of rockets and cannon balls. Suddenly the fire ceased, and
the enemy evacuated the fort, a lucky arrow having killed Kishwar
_K_han, and the garrison being terrified by the madness of the attack.
Soon after this, Murtaga concluded an alliance with ’Ali ’A'dil Shah,
according to which he was at liberty to reduce the kingdoms of
Berar and Bidar, while the Vijayapur king prosecuted his conquests
in the Karnatak. Berar was soon subdued, and Burhan ’Imadu’l-
Mulk, the king, with his usurping minister, Tufal Khan, were made
prisoners and died suddenly in confinement. Murtaga then marched
against Bidar, but was recalled by the invasion of Berar by Mir-an
Muhammad Shah, King of Khandcsh. This invasion he soon repelled,
and obliged the ruler of Khandesh to buy peace with a large sum of
money. He would soon have reduced the kingdom of Bidar also,
but Mirza K_han Isfahani, the crafty agent of Ibrahim Kutb Shah,
managed to fill his mind with suspicions of his minister, Ohangiz
Khan. Murta_za, in consequence of these doubts, compelled the
faithful Changiz to drink poison, but afterwards, discovering his
error, he called his nobles together, and, committing the government
to Mir Kazi Beg, shut himself up in an apartment of his palace, and
refused to meddle in public aflairs, as being unworthy to reign. In
1584 he obtained _K_hadij-ah, the sister of Ibrahim ’A'dil Shah, in
marriage for his son, Miran Husain, but, being jealous of the young
prince, endeavoured to destroy him. A sanguinary struggle followed
between the king’s faction and that of the prince, and the historian
Firishtah was engaged on the side of the king. Miran Husain,
however, proved victorious, and put his father to death by sufl’o~
eating him in a bathing room, the doors and windows of which were
closed, while a great fire was kindled beneath.


~
lxvi MUHAMMADAN KINGS or ran mxrnm.
The reign of the parricide Miran Husain was short and bloody.
It lasted but ten months and three days, when he was beheaded by
his minister, Mirza lgian, whom he had intended to destroy. The
minister, in turn, was seized by a chief named Jamal Khan, hewn in
pieces, and his limbs aflixed to different buildings. The bodies of
his friends were rammed into cannon and blown to fragments.
Jamal Qan, who was now the most powerful noble in the State,
raised Ism’ail Nigam Shah, the son of Burhan Nigam Shah, and
nephew of Murtaza, to the throne. Being himself of the schismatic
sect of Mahdi, who believe that Saiyid Muhammad, n.1>. 1550, was
the promised Imam Mahdi, he persuaded the king to embrace that
heresy. It is a sect still numerous in the Dakhan, the N fiwabs of
Karnul, Elichpur, and Tuljepur being followers of it. Jamal Khan
was opposed by Salabat Qan, who had been formerly prime minister
of Murtaza, but totally defeated him at Paitan on the Godavari.
_Salabat ]_§_l1an soon after died at Talagaon, near Punah, and his
mausoleum at Ahmadnagar is one of the most picturesque objects of
that interesting capital. Meantime Burhan Shah, the father of
Ism’ail, who was a refugee with the Emperor Akbar, thought the
opportunity favorable for advancing his own claims to the throne.
He was supported by Vijayapur, and after a short but fierce struggle
defeated and killed Jamal lgian, and having imprisoned his son
Ism’ail, was proclaimed king by the title of Burhan N i_z_am Shah II.
His reign was short and inglorious, lasting but 4 months and 16 days.
The principal event of it was a terrible slaughter inflicted on his forces
by the Portuguese. He died in 1594, and was succeeded by his son
Ibrahim Nigam Shah, who, after a short reign of four months, was
killed leading his troops in an attack on the forces of Vijayapur.
The son of Ibrahim being an infant, it was proposed by Miyan
Manju, the noble of the greatest authority, to put him aside and
elevate some older prince of the Nigam Shahi family to the throne.
For this purpose Ahmad, the son of Tahir, was elected, and he was
crowned August 6th, 1594. It was soon discovered, however, that
he was of spurious birth, and this led to a sanguinary struggle with
a faction headed by Ikl_1las lflian, who was at first so successful that
Miyan Manju invited the prince Murad Mirza, son of the Emperor
Akbar, to occupy Ahmadnagar. Murad Mirza accordingly advanced
with 30,000 Mughul and Rajpfit horse, but before he could enter the
fort of Al_1madna_g_ar, Manjii had completely defeated the other party,
and had begun to regret his overtures to the Mughuls. He, there-
fore, made preparations for the defence of the fo-rt; and, leaving
Chand Bibi, the aunt of the late king, and some of his own confidential
adherents there, he departed with Ahmad to seek the aid of the
Kings of Golkonda and Vijayapur. No sooner was he gone than


muirnmnsnsn xnvcs or THE nsxnm. lxvii
Ohand Bibi caused the chief ofiicer he had left to superintend his
interests to be assassinated, took upon herself the conduct of the
defence, and proclaimed Bahadur Shah, the infant son of the late
monarch, king. The Mughuls invested Ahmadnagar on all sides,
and out off Shah ’Ali, a chief who endeavoured to throw reinforce-
ments into the place, with all his men. Ibrahim ’A'dil Shah of
Vijayapur, alarmed at this progress of the Delhi army, despatched
25,000 horse to Shahdurg on the frontier, where they were joined
by Miyan Manjfi, Ahmad Shah, and Ik_hlas Elan, who laid aside
his factions feelings on this emergency. Murad Mirza, hearing of
this assemblage, determined to storm, and five mines were laid, which
were to explode on the morning of Feb. 21, 1590. One of the Mughul
nobles, however, betrayed the secret during the night to the garrison,
who were thus enabled to render two of the mines useless. They
were in the act of removing the powder from the third when it ex-
ploded, killing numbers of the counter-miners, and throwing down
several yards of the wall. A panic seized the garrison, but Chand
Bibi, with a veil over her face, and a naked sword in her hand,
rushed into the breach, and her example brought back the fugitives.
Animated by her heroism, the besieged fought with such desperation
that, though attack succeeded attack from four p.m. till nightfall,
they were all repulsed. During the night, the breach, under the
superintendcnce of Chand Bibi, was built up seven or eight feet, and
the Mughuls were so daunted by the defence that they made terms
and retired, on the province of Berar being ceded to them. From
that time the Lady Chand was called Sultanah Chand, “ the Empress
Chand.” Bahadur Shah was proclaimed king; but the fall of the
kingdom was at hand. After three troublous years, Akbar him-
self marched towards the Dakhan in the beginning of the year
1599 A.D. He laid siege to the fort of Asirgarh, while Prince Daniyal
Mirza and Khan l_(_hanan operated against Ahmadnagar. Chand
Sultanah was basely murdered by the garrison, and the Mughuls,
having stormed the fort, gave no quarter. Asirgarh fell at thesame
time, and Bahadur Shah was imprisoned in the fortress of Gwalior,
where he was at the time Firishtah wrote his history.
From this time, then, the kingdom of Ahmadnagar may be said
to have become a province of the Mug_hul empire; but the Nigam
Shahi oflicers having made the son of Shah ’Ali king, by the title of
Murtaza Nigam Shah IL, this puppet monarch held his court for
some time at Parenda. Meantime, an Abyssinian chief, named
Malik Ambar, rose to great power, and eventually reduced under
his control nearly the whole of the Ahmadnagar territories. He, in
1610 A.D., founded the city of Khirki, to which Aurapgzib after-
wards gave the name of Auraugabfid, and was renowned for his


~_i
lxviii Muirsnusnxx KINGS or run DAKHAN.
justice and wisdom. He abolished revenue farming, and collected
the sums due from the land to government by brahman agents under
Muhammadan superintendence. He restored the village system
Where it had fallen into decay, and revived a mode of assessment
by collecting a moderate proportion of the produce in kind, and
commuting this for a money payment after the experience of a few
seasons. His territories thus became thriving and populous; and
though he occasionally met with reverses, the ancient N igam Shahi
flag, which he hoisted on the impregnable rock of Daulatabad, was
never lowered; and he even for a time regained Berar and Ahmad-
nagar itself. But in 1626 he died, and his death was followed by
the final annexation of Ahmadnagar to the Mughul empire.
K_'a'sz'm Bartd was the founder of the Barfd Skdlzi dynasty of
Bidar. He was a Turk, and was sold as a Georgian slave to Sultan
Muhammad Shah Lashkari Bahmani. He distinguished himself in
reducing the rebel Marathas of Paitan and Chakan; and having
slain the chief Sahaji, was rewarded by the daughter of his deceased
foe being bestowed on his son, Amir Barid, by Muhammad Shah.
The tribe of the Maratha chief now joined him as retainers, and it
was by their aid he rose to greatness, and usurped the forts of
Kandhar, Udgarh, and Ausa. He died in 1504, having for 12 years
acted as an independent prince.
His son, Amir Barid, reigned 45 years. In his time, Kalimu’llah
Shah Bzihmani, the last of his race, fled from Bidar to Ahinadnagar.
At the same period, Ism’ail ’Adil Shah took Bidar, but made it over
again to Amir Barid, whom he invited to Vijayapur, and entrusted
4,000 foreign horse to his command, deputing him to aid Burhan
Nigam Shah. In the campaign which-followed Amir Barid greatly
distinguished himself. Some years after, when proceeding again to
assist Burhan Shah, he died at Daulatabad. He was succeeded by
’Ali Barid, who first took the title of Shah. Having offended Shah
Tahir, the envoy of Burhan Shah, who was sent to congratulate him
on his accession, he incurred the resentment of that monarch, and in
the war which followed he was divested of almost all his territories.
Some years after, Murtaza Nigam Shah besieged Bidar itself, and
would have taken it but for the diversion effected by ’Ali ’A'dil Shah.
’Ali Barid reigned 45 years, according to Firishtah. The dates of the
reigns of this dynasty are, as seen in Briggs’ translation, involved in
inextricable confu'sion. According to Grant Duff, Bidar was annexed
to Vijayapur before the year 1573. The names of the other sove-
reigns who are said to have reigned at Bidar are as follows :—
1.1:.
Ibrahim Baiid Shah, eldest son of ’Ali Barid ................................. .. 1562
Kasim Barid Shah, brother of Ibrahim . 1569
Mirza ’Ali Barid, son of Kasim ........... .. 1572
Amir Barid Shah lI., who was on the throne in 1609, when Firishtah wrote 1572


EVENTS CONNECTING INDIA WITH EUROPE.
1xix'
KINGS or GUJARAT.
Mugaifar Shah I. .......... ............... ................ Ahmad Shah I., grandson of M_ Shah..
Muhammad Shah, son of Ahmad .. .
I_(u,t_b Shah, son of Muhammad .
David Shah, uncle of Ku_t_b ..................... ...... ....... ............... ..
Mahmud Shah I., surnamed Begarha (Two-castle, from the forts of Girnal
and Champanir reduced by him, and before thought impregnable),
nephew of Daud ...... .......... .... ............................. Mugaifar Shah ]I., son of Mahmud ..
Sikandar Shah, eldest son of Mugafiar .......................................... ..
Nasir Iflian, brother of Sikandar, is crowned under the title of Mahmud
Shah II. ........................... ..
Bahadur Shah, brother of Sikandar ........... ..
Bahadur being murdered by the Portuguese,
Miran Muhammad Shah Farrukhi, king






and dy tho t h ,
of Khandesh, is made king




Mahmud Shah III., nephew of Bahadur Shah ....................... Ahmad Shah I1 ......................................... ..
Mugaifar Shah III ...... ..
Dethroned by Akbar ............ ...................... ...... .....
xnvcs or MALWAH.
governor of Malwah, proclaims himself king,
making Dhar and Mandu his capitals ................ ..... ..
Hushang G_11m-1, son of Dilawar ..... ..
Muhammad Qniri, son of Hushang ..
Mahmud Khiljy ............................. ..
(fliiyasu ’d-din, eldest son of Mahmud Nasiru ‘d-din, son of G_hiya_s_u ’d-din ...... ..
Mahmud II., younger son of Nasir , . . . . . . . . . . . . _. Bahadur Shah conquers Malwah ......................... .................... ..
KINGS or KHANDESH.
Malik Raja Farru@i ......... ......... ....... ...................... ..
Malik Nasir, elder son of the above .......... Miran ’A'dil Khan Farrukhi, son of the above ...... ..
Miran Mubarak Khan Farrulghi, son of the above ..
’A’dil Khan Farrulr_hi I., eldest son of the above.....
Dead mam Farru1_<_l_ii, brother of the above ...... ..
’A'di1 flan Farru@i II. ...................... ..
Miran Muhammad Shah, son of the above Miran Mubarak Khan Farru@i ........................ ..
Miran Muhammad Igmn Farruk_h_i, son of the above....
Baa ’Ali IQan Farni@i, brother of the above ...... .. Ba édur Igian Farrulghi, son of the above .......... ........................ ..
REMARKABLE EVENTS CONNECTING INDIA \VI'1"H EUROPE.
Odoricus, an Italian friar, visits Thanah ........... .......................... ..
Vasco de Gama reaches Kolikod (Oalicut) by sea ............................... ..
Albgquerque, the Portuguese admiral, burns Kolikod, but is at last driven
0 .................................. ................................................ ..
Goa captured by the Portuguese; retaken by the natives; ceded to the
Portuguese .......... ............................................................ ..
The Zamorin permits the Portuguese to build a fort at Kolikod Bombay occupied by the Portuguese"................ .......... ............... ..
Sultan Dilawar G_h1iri,





AJJ.
1396
1412
1443
1451
1459
1459
1511
1526
1526
1526
1536
1538
1553
1561
1583
1401
1405
1432
1435
1469
1500
1512
1534
1370
1899
1437
1441
1457
1503
1510
1520
1535
1566
1576
1596
1300
1498
1510
1510
1513
1532


IXX EVENTS CONNECTING INDIA WITH EUROPE.
11.1).
The Venetian merchant, Caesar Frederick, reaches Ahmadabad............... 1663
Thomas Stephens, of New College, Oxford, reaches Goa in October, and
Sir Francis Drake lands at Ternate, and subsequently at Java ......... 1579
A land expedition, organised by the Levant Compan , reaches India 1589
Petition presented by 101 merchants and others to lizabeth for a charter
to trade with India.. .............. ........................................... .. 1599
John Mildenhall sent as Ambassador to Agra, which he reaches in 1603...
Charter for 15 years to “The Governor and Company of Merchants of
London trading to the East Indies ” .......................................... 1600
A fleet from Torbay reaches Acheen in Sumatra, and Bantam in Java,
establishing factories in each lace ............. ................... 1601
Second Charter, by which the ast India Com any is made a corporate
body, with the retention of a power to dissolve t em at three years’ notice.
Captain Hawkins of the Hector reaches Agra with a letter to Jahangir.
The Dutch occupy Palikat .................................................... ..... 1609
The Mu@u1 Emperor issues a farmdn permitting the English to establish
factories at Surat, Ahmadabad, Khambayat, and Gogo .............. 1611
Captain Best, with the Dragon and Ilosiander, defeats the Portuguese
squadron at Surat, and receives a farmdn, authorising an English Envoy
to reside at Agra, and the English to trade with Surat 1612
Sir Thomas Roe, Ambassador to J ahan ir, reaches India ...... 1616
The Danish settlement of Tallanganibadi (Tranquebar) founded ..... 1617
The Dutch and English Companies contend for the exclusive trade with
the Spice Islands ................. ........................... ............ 1618
The Dutch assign to the English a share of the pepper trade with Java
and with Pali at ............... ................... ..... .... 1619
Sir Robert Shirley courteously received by J ahfingir at Agra ............. ..
The East India Company receive permission to exercise martial law in India 1624
The English open trade with Durgarazapatnain ................ .... .. 1625
Treaty with Portugal, b which the English are allowed to trade with
Portuguese ports in In ia ................. ...................... 1635
Gabriel Boughton, surgeon of the Company’s ship Hopewell, cures the
daughter of Shah Jahan and the favorite mistress of the Niiwab of
Ben al, and so obtains for the Company the right to trade throughout


the ominions of the Great Mughul ....................... .. 1636
The English remove from Durgarazapatnam to Madras. 1639
Fort St. George built at Madras .................. 1641
Fort St. Geor e constituted a Presidency... 1654
New Charter or seven years ....................................... . 1657
Forts on Malabar coast placed under Surat, Bengal under Madras . ...... .. 1668
The Dutch take Nagapatnam from the Portuguese, and make it their
ca ital on that coast ............ .............................................. .. 1660
Bom ay ceded to England by the Portuguese as art of the Infants
Catherina’s dower on her marriage with Charles I. ...... .......... .. 1661
A New Charter confirms former privileges, with the ri ht to make peace
and war, to exercise civil and criminal jurisdiction, an send unlicensed
persons to En land ............ .............................................. 1661
French East In ia Company established. Defence of Surat by the Enghsh
against Sivaji, for which they are rewarded with fresh privileges by


Aurangzib .................. ......................................... 1664
Island of Bombay granted by Charles II. to the East India Company 1668
The natives destroy the English factory at Honawar, and murder every
Englishman... ............................................. ....... ...... 1670
St. Helena granted by Royal Charter _to the Company . . 1673
Bombay revolts under Captain Keigwin ............ 1683


EVENTS CONNECTING INDIA WITH EUROPE.
Admiral Sir Thomas Grantham arrives in Bombay, and Keigwin submits
to his authority ..... ........................................................... ..
Bombay made a Regency, with sway over all the Company's establish-
ments. Puducheri (Pondieherry) colonized by the French. English
driven from Hugli, and allowed to return .................................... ..
Fort St. David built. Yakub Iflian Sidi, the Imperial Admiral, lands in
Bombay with 25,000 men, and takes Mazagaon ............................ ..
Charter forfeited for non-payment of 5 per cent. levied on all Joint Stock
Companies, but on Octo er 1st a new charter granted by the Kin
New Com any incorporated under the name of “ The English Company."
The old Company, called “ The London Company,” ordered to cease
trading in three ears. Calcutta purchased by the old Company, and
Fort William bu' t ................................................................ ..
The old Company obtain an Act authorising them to trade under the
charter of the new Company ................................................... ..
Lord Godolphin’s Award, by which the two Companies are united under
the title of “ The United Company of Merchants of England trading to
the East Indies.” Three Presidencies established, and a Governor, with
the title of General, and a Council appointed for Bombay, 29th of Sept.
An Act passed (9 Anne, c. 7) that no person shall be a Director of the East
India Company and a Director of the Bank of England at the same time
Jul . Deputies from the Company arrive at Delhi, and on the 6th of
ianuary, 1717, obtain a farmdn exemptin their trade from duties, and
allowing them to ossess land round their actories ... ................... ..
Ostend East India ompauy formed .............................................. ..
The Emperor of Germany grants a charter to the Ostend Company, under
which they carry on a successful trade ........................................ ..
Charter renewed till Lady-day, 1769. The Company accept 4 per cent.
interest for £3,200,000 lent to Government, and pay a premium of
£20Q0OO ............................................................................ N
Swedish India Company formed ................................................. ..
The Company lend £1,000,000 to Government, and obtain an extension of
rivileges to 1783. Commencement of the contest between England and
rance in India ................................................................... ..
War declared between En land and France. A French fleet anchors 12
miles S. of Madras, an lands a force under Labourdonnais. Madras
eapitulates after a bombardment of five days. Labourdonnais si s a
treaty to restore the town on a ransom being paid. This treaty violated
by Dupleix, Governor of Puducheri ........................................... ..
December 19th. Dupleix fails in an attack on Fort St. David ............. ..
The English lay siege to Puducheri, but without success. Treaty of Ail-
la-Chapelle, by which Madras is restored to the English ________________ ,,
Sahuji Raja of Tanjfir, dethroned by his cousin, calls in the aid of the
English, who, after one repulse, take Devikota, which was to be the
guerdon of their assistance. They then desert their ally, and conclude
a treaty with Pratap Sing. Clive leads the storming party at Devikota.
The war in the Karnatak begins .............................................. ..
Muhammad ‘Ali, claimant of the Niiwabship of the Karnatak, whose cause
is espoused by the English, takes refuge in Trichinapalli, which is
besieged by the French, under M. Lally and Chanda Sahib. The siege
ends in their utter diseomfiture. Chve takes Arcot, and defends it
against overwhelming odds ................................................... ..
Dupleix superseded. December 26th. Treaty of peace signed at Puducheri
—the French and English withdraw from interference in the aifairs of
the Native Princes ................................................................ ..
1687
1689
1693
1698
1700
1708
1711
1723
1730
1731
1744
1746
1747
1748
1749
1761
1754


lxxii EVENTS corrmzcrrzvo INDIA wrrn EUROPE
Commodore James takes Suwarndurg and Bankot from Angria, the Maratha
iratical chief ....................................... .. . ............................ ..
Fe ruary llth. Angria taken prisoner, and his forts destroyed, by Admiral
\Vatson and Colonel Clive, assisted b the troops of the Peshwa. June
%{8t1h. Calcutta attacked by Siraj1i'd- aulah. The tragedy of the Black
oe ...................................................... ... .................... “.“.
January 2nd. Calcutta retaken. June 23rd. Battle of Plassy. Mir J’afar
made Siibahdar of Bengal in room of Siraju’d-daulah. War renewed
in the Karnatak. English take Madura ................. ................. ..
April 28th. Count de Lally arrives at Fort St. David with a French fleet,
and an indecisive action is fought next day. June 1st. Lally takes Fort
St. David, and razes the fortifications. June 11th. A commission arrives
in Bengal from the Directors, ap 'ointing a Council of ten, with a Go-
vernor for each three months. All invite Clive to assume the Govern-
ment. October 4=th. Lally takes Arcot; and December 11th lays siege
to hladras .... ................................................................ ...@
February 19th. Lally retires from before Madras. April 6th. The Englis
take Machhlipatnam. The Nigam en ges not to permit the French to
settle in his dominions. N ovcmber 951. Wandewash taken ............. ..
February 9th. Arcot taken by/the English. July. Vansittart succeeds
Clive as Governor of Ben ral. Clive sails for England in February.
Mir Kasim succeeds Mir ‘afar as Siibahdar of Bengal. Sept. 27th.
Revenues of Vardhawan (Burdwau), Midnapur, and Chittagaon ceded
to the English b Mir Kasim. ................................. ............. ..
January 7th. Batt e of Panipat. 14th. Puducheri taken by the English.
Fall of the French power in the Dakhan. Shah ’A'lam II. defeated
at Patna by Major Carnac. Treaty with Shah ’A’lam, who acknow-
ledges Mir Kasim on payment of £240,000 per annum ................... ..
February 10. Puducheri and other forts restored to the French by the
treaty of Paris. June 25th. Mr. Ellis, with a body of troops, attacked
and made prisoners by Mir Kasirn at Patna. July. The English agree
to restore Mir VJ ‘afar. Nov. 6th. Patna taken by the English: Mir
Kasim seeks shelter with the Niiwab of Awadh (Oude) ................... ..
October 23rd. Battle of Buxar .................................................... ..
Death of Mir J’afar at Calcutta. His son, Najmu’d-daulah, succeeds him.
Ma 3rd. Lord Clive arrives at Calcutta as Governor-General. August
l2t . The Diwani, or Revenue of Bengal, Bahar, and Orissa granted to
the Company by Shah ’A’1am II. .............. .... ..................... ..
May 8th. N ajmu’d-daulah dies, and is succeeded by his brother, $aifi1'd-
daulah. The mam (Nigam ’Ali) cedés the N. Sarkars to the English
for 5 lakhs er annum .................... ............................. ..
January. Lor Clive sails for England. September. The troops of the
N igam and Haidar ‘Ali attack the English .............................. ..
Treaty with the Nigam, who cedes the Karnatak, Balaghat, and reduces
the tribute for the Sarkars. The English attack Haidar A'li .......... ..
April 4th. I;Iaidar, at the gates of Madras, forces the English to conclude
a eace
Marc 10th. $aifu‘d-daulah dies, and is succeeded by his brother, Muba-
raku'd- daulah ...................................................................... . .
\Var between Haida!‘ and the Marathas. Shah ’A'lam II. enters Delhi
with the Marathas ............................. .; ......... ................... ..
July. Marathas make peace with Haidar...... .................................. ..
Allahabad and Korah sold to the Niiwab of A’wadh (Oude) for 50 lakhs ;
the Niiwab agrees with Warren Hastings to pay 40 lakhs for the reduc-
tion of Rohflkhand. Tanjfir taken by the English on the 16th of Scpt.,

1758
1759
1760
1761
1763
1764
1765
1766
1767
1768
1769
1770
1771
1772


EVENTS CONNECTING INDIA WITH EUROPE.
lxxiii


at the instigation of the N fiwab of the Karnatak, and the Raja handed
over to the N fiwab. The Dutch expelled by the English from N aga-
patnam. June. Act to lend the Compan £1,400,000 at 4 er cent.
Act to regulate the votes of Proprietors of ast India Stock, giving one
vote to holders from £500 to £1000, two votes from £1000 to £3000,
three from £3000 to £6000, four from £6000 to £10,000. Six Directors
to go out by rotation. The other Presidencies subordinated to Bengal.
Supreme Court established at Calcutta. .................................. ..
April 23rd. The Rohillas defeated by the English. Dec. 28th. Salsette
and Bassein taken by the Bombay troops ............ .................... ..
March 6th. Treaty between the Bombay Government and Raghuba, the
deposed Peshwa, who cedes Salsette and Bassein, and the revenues of
Bharuch. May. The Bombay army march to the aid of Raghuba, and
gain several successes. The Supreme Government disapprove of the
proceedings of the Bombay Government, who are compelled to withdraw
their troops, whereupon Raghuba retreats to Surat. A’safu’d-daulah,
Niiwab of A’wadh, cedes Benares to the Company, who guarantee to
him b treaty Allahabad and Korah. December 11th. Lord Pigot
succee s to the Government of Madras ......... ......................... ..
April llth. Raja of Tanjfir restored. August 5th. Nand Kumar han ed
for forgery. Lord Pigot (August 24th) arrested by two suspen ed
members of Council and their faction, and imprisoned ............ .... ..
July. Chandranagar (Chandernagore), Machhli atnam, and Karikal taken
from the French. August 10th. The French eet defeated ofl‘ Puducheri,
and driven from the coast by the English. October. Puducberi sur-
renders. Hastings tenders his resignation to the Court of Directors, who
accept it, but he subsequently disowns it .................. ................ ..
January 4th. Expedition to Piinah to support Raghuba. It fails, however,
and the English are compelled to sign a treaty, by which they (give up
Ragguba and all their acquisitions since 17 56. January 30th. enera
Go ard's celebrated march across India. He reaches Burh anpur in the
Niganfs country, leaves it on the 6th of February, and reaches Surat on
the 26th ............ ....................................................... ..
Janna 2nd. General Goddard crosses the Tapti, and takes Dubhoi Jan.
20tlil, and Ahmadabad (Feb. 15th), and April 5th he defeats Sin hia.
August 26th.~ Sir Hector Munro arrives from Madras to oppose Haidar.
September 10th. Baillie’s defeat and surrender. 11th. The English
retreat, and reach Madras on the 13th. October 31st. Haidar takes
A1-cot. Nov. 5th. Sir Eyre Coote arrives at Madras with reinforcements
January 17th. Advance of Sir E. Coote. July 1st. He defeats Haidar
near Porto Novo, and returns to Madras in November. June 22nd.
Lord Macartne arrives at Madras as Governor. Sadras, Palikat, and
Nagapatnam ta en from the Dutch. October 24th. Jud eship of Sadr
Diwani given by W. Hastings to Sir Elijah Impey, alrca Chief Judge
of the Supreme Court. The Commons recall Impe in l\ ay following.
The Company's Charter renewed by 21 Geo. II ., c. 65, till March,
1794-; the Company to pay £400,000, and to be allowed a dividend of
8 per cent. ......................................................................... ..
February 18th. Colonel Brathwaite, with 100 Europeans, 300 cavalry,
and 1,600 Sipahis, after a gallant defence of two days, overpowered by
Tipu, and his whole force cut to pieces or made prisoners. ‘The battle
took place about 40 miles from Tanjfir, on the Kolerun river. 19th.
The French land 2000 men to aid Tipfi. April 12th. Indecisive action
between the fleets of Admiral Hughes and the French Admiral Sufi‘re_in.
August 31st. The French take Tiincomalce. September 8th. Action
A.D.
1773
1774
1775
1776
1777
1779
1780
1781


lxxiv. EVENTS CONNECTING INDIA WITH EUROPE.
between the fleets, in which the English have the advantage. Dec. 7th.
Death of Haidar 'Ali........................................... ..................
General Matthews takes Bednur. March. M. Bussy lands at Gudalūr (Cud-
dalore). General Stuart, who had succeeded Sir Eyre Coote, being ordered
to march on Gudalár, refuses, but sets out on the 21st of April at the rate
of 23 miles a day. He attacks Gudalar on the 13th of June, and is re-
ulsed with the loss of 62 officers and 920 men, nearly all Europeans,
illed or mortally wounded. Indecisive action between Hughes and
Suffrein. General Stuart's army saved by the peace between the English
and the French: he is arrested and sent to England. The French
essions in India restored in pursuance of the treaty of Versailles.
rincomalee restored to the Dutch. Tipá retakes Bednar, where
Colonel Macleod had superseded General Matthews. The English
army made prisoners, and treated with great cruelty by Tipa ...........;
J'' 24th. The English garrison of Mangalar, which had been besieged
by Tipú since May 23rd, 1783, capitulates, and marches out with all the
honors of war. March 11th. Peace with Tipá; conquests on both sides
restored. August 13th. Mr. Pitt's Bill, 24 Geo. III., c. 25, establishes
Board of Control................ • - - - - - - - --------------
Pulo Penang, or Prince of Wales Island, purchased ' the Company, and
occupied July 6th. , 26 Geo. III., c. 16, empowers Governor-General to
act in opposition to his Council; c. 25 grants the power of recall of the
Governor-General to the Crown .................................... ---
February 13th. Trial of Warren Hastings began, Defence began June
2nd, 1791; acquitted April 23rd, 1795. The Court grant him an an-
nuity of £4,000 for 283 years from the 24th of June, 1785. September.
Guntar ceded by the Nizām .......................... * - - - - - - - - •- • •- - -
Decennial land settlement in Bengal began; the same in Bahár next year:
the whole completed in 1793, when it was declared perpetual. This is
the Permanent Settlement of Lord Cornwallis, by which the Zamíndārs
were declared landowners, they having been only the revenue agents of
the Mughul Government. December 24th. Tipú attacks the lines of
Travancore ............ •- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - •- - - - * - - - - •
May 7th. Tipú ravages part of Travancore. June. Alliance between the
glish, Marathas, and the Nizām against him; signed by the Marathas
on the 1st of June, by the Nizam on # 4th of July. June 13th. General
Meadows opens the campaign................................. •- - - - - •- - -
February 5th. Lord £ marches to Vélür. March 21st. Takes
Bengalur, , May 26th. The English, on their retreat owing to disease,
are joined by the Marathas. July. The allies reach Bengalar............
February 6th. The allies storm the redoubts at Shrirangpatnam (Seringa-
patam). March 9th. Tipá signs treaty, by which he agrees to pay
.#3,300,900, and to give his two eldest sons as hostages....................
Zila or District Courts for Civil Causes established in Bengal; Courts of
Appeal at Calcutta, Patna, Dhaka (Dacca) and Murshidābād; Sadr
Diwani Adalat (Final Civil Appeal) at Calcutta, and Sadr Nizāmat
'Adālat (Final Criminal Appeal). Puducheri and other French settle-
ments taken for the third time. New Charter for 20 years; salaries of
Commissioners of Board of Control to be paid by the Company; the
Commissioners not necessarily to be Privy Councillors. Company to
provide 300 tons of shipping for private traders ... •- e.
Sons of Tipa restored to him...................................................... -
The Marathas defeat the Nizam and compel him to cede territory. The
Dutch settlements in Ceylon, at Banda, Amboyna, Malacca, and the
Cape taken. Cochin surrenders after a gallant defence .....................
A.D.
1782
1783
1784
1786
1788
1789
1790
1791
1792
1793
1794
1795


EVENTS CONNECTING INDIA WITH EUROPE.
lxxv
Se tember 1st. Treaty with the N i_1_.am, by which he agrees to disband his
rench Contingent and receive four battalions of English May 4th. Seringapatam stormed and Ti (1 slain. Partition Treaty of
Maisfir between the Nigam and the nglish. October 25th. Treaty
with the Raja of Tan'fir, “by which he surrenders his power to the
English, receiving a la h of pagodas as pension, and one-fifth of the net
revenue.” December 29th. Sir J. Malcolm sails from Bombay as Am-
bassador to Persia ............ ..................... ........... ...... ....
May 13th. The Niiwab of Surat compelled to sign away his government
for a pension of £10,000 per annum. October 12th. Subsidiary Treaty
with the Nigam, who gives up his share of Maisur in consideration of
English protection ............ .......... ........ ..
July 16th. On the death of the N nwab of the Karnatak the English de-
mand that his heir, ’Ali Husain, shall sign away his power, and on his
refusal raise ’A'zimu’d-daulah, his nephew, to the throne on that con-
dition. October 14th. Jeswant Rao Holkar defeated at the battle of
Indnr (Indore) by Daulat Rao Sindhia. November 14th. The Nfiwab
of Kwadh compelled to cede Rohilkhand and the Doab to the Company.
Puducheri restored to the French in ursuance of the Treaty of Amiens.
June 4th. The Nfiwab of Farsukjaba compelled to cede his territory to
the English for a pension of 108,000 rupees per annnm. October 25th.
Holkar defeats Slndhia near Pnnah, whereupon the Peshwa flies to
Bassein, leaving with the English Resident an en agement to subsidize
a body of English troops. The Governor Genera ratifies the engage-
ment, and agrees to restore the Peshwa. December 31st. Treaty of
Bassein, by which the Peshwa a eed not to hold intercourse with any
State except in concert with the nglish Government, and to cede terri-
to for the sup ort of the contingent furnished by the Company .... Marc . The Ma as army, under General Wellesle , march on Pfinah,
which the reach on the 20th of April. May 13t . The Peshwa is es-
corted bac to Piinah by British troo s. August 12th. General Wellesley
takes Ahmadnagar; September 23r , ains the victo of Assaye over
Sindhia and the Raja. of Nagpur; ta es Burhanpur ctober 13th, and
Asirgarh October 21st; defeats Sindhia at Argaum November 28th, and
takes Gavelgarh December 15th. General Lake takes Aligarh on the
30th of August, defeats the Marathas near Delhi September 12th, and
enters Delhi, where he captures the Emperor and his family; enters
A’gra October 17th, and gains the victory of Laswaree November 1st.
December 17th. The Raja of Nagpur cedes Katak (Cuttack) and agrees
to admit no Euro eans but the English into his dominions. December
29th. Sindhia ce es Ahmadnagar, Eharuch, and his forts in the Doab,
with a like clause about the exclusion of Europeans. Puducheri taken
mu .. ............................. "U. ................ N. .................... "nu
February 27th. Treaty of Burhanpur with Sindhia, who agrees to receive
and support a British Contingent. April 16th. War declared against
Holkar. August 24th. Colonel Murray takes Indfir. Oct. 8th. Holkar
attacks Delhi, but after a nine days’ siege is repulsed by Lient.-Colonels
Burn and Ochterlon . November 13th. General Frazer defeats Holkar
at the battle of Dig Deeg) and takes 87 guns. December 4th. The Fort
of]Dqgtaken ................................. U. ....... .".. ...................... ..
Januafiy 3rd. Siege of Bharatpnr (Bhurtpore) be an, and lasted till the
22n of February, when Lord Lake determine to retreat, having lost
2334 men in killed and wounded before the place. April 10th. The
Bharatpur Raja signs a treaty, by which he a recs to pa 20 lakhs,
cede certain districts, and deliver his eldest son as ostage. ctober 5th.


s.n.
1798
1799
1800
1801 I
1802
1803
1804


lxxvi EVENTS CONNECTING INDIA. WITH armors.
Marquis Cornwallis dies. N ov. 23rd. Treaty with Sindhia. Dec. 2-ith.
Treaty with Holkar, who renounces all territory N. of the Chambal and
in Bandalkhand, and agrees to exclude all Europeans but English from
his dominions .............. .... .... .................................... ..
July 10th. The mutiny of Véliir, in which Colonel Fancourt and 13 other
oificers and 99 Europeans were massacred .................... ..
War with the Raja of Travancore... ............................................ ..
Colonel Hamilton defeats the Travancore army at Anj uricha, December 3rd.
January 15th. Travancore army again defeated. February 10th. The lines
stunned and entirely in possession of the English on Feb. 21st, which
ends the war. August 6th. The Madras troops at Ohitradiirg (Chittle-
droog) mutiny and seize the treasure, and march to join other mutiiieeis
at Seiingapatani, but are routed by Colonel Gibbs. August 23rd. The
mutineers at Seringapatam surrender at discretion ......................... ..
February 17th. Island of Ambo a taken by the English. July 9th. Isle
of Bourbon taken. August 9t . Banda; 29th, Ternate ; December 9th,
Mauritius taken ........................................................... ..
July 21st. Charter renewed, but trade with India thrown open by 53rd
Geo. III., c. 155 ......... ....................................................... ..
May 29th. The Nipalese attack the Police Station at Bhutwal. Nov. lst.
or declared a ainst Ni 61 ........................................ ..
April 27th. Nipalgcedes Kii)maon by the Convention of Almora
June 13th. Ba_]i Rao cedes Ahmadnagar and other places. October 18th.
The Governor General takes the field against the Pindaris. Nov. 6th.
The Géiikwad cedes Ahmadabfid. Nov. 5th. Battle of Khirki, in which
Baji Rae Peshwa is defeated b Colonel Burr, the Marathas being 12
to 1. November 26th. Battle 0 Sitabaldi, in which Colonel Hopcton
Scott defeats the Raja of Nagpur, the Marathgs l)0l!1%‘:tVIb;€l\i6 times IX1€fi9
numerous than the En lish. December 28t . Sir . is op gains e
battle of Mehid ur agaiist Holkar ................................. ..
J anuary_6th. Hol 1_' makes peace. May._ Piriglari war ended l)y‘?l16 de-
struction of the principal hordes and tl(i1eir chiefs. BJune 3rd. Ba_]i Rfio,
the last of the Peshwiis surrenders, an is sent to enares ........
The Nfiwfib of A'wadh (Oiide) at the suggestion of Lord Hastings, Governor-
General, assumes the title of king, and renounccs his nominal fealty to
the Emperor of Delhi .................. .................. ................... ..
Malacca ceded to the British b the Dutch. Singhapur purchased. War
with Barmah. April 12th, lith. The Bengal army embark for Rangfin,
which is taken May llth. August. Mergui, Tavoy, and Teiiasseriin sur-
rendered. October. Martaban and Yeh taken. N_ov. lst. Mutiny at
Barrackpur of the 47th Ben al Native Infantry, with part of the 26th
and 62nd Native Infantry. he 47th erased from the army hst, and
many sipahis of that corps killed .......................... ............ .... ..
Feb. 13th. A rebellion at Bharatpur on the death of the Raga Baldev Singh.
A strong faction support Durjan Sal, his brother_; the English declare
in favor of Bnldcv Singh, infant son of the late Raye. Dec. 9th. British
troops march for A'va ..........................................................
Janna 18th. English, under Lord Combermere, take Bharatpur, with
the ribss of 578 men killed and wounded. February 24th. Treaty of
Yalp<%‘abu, by_ Wl11Cl1d the lzargaegcoggde Assam, Arakan, Tavoy, Mergui,
an enasserini an a ............................... ...... ..
February. Eiiropehns alloiivedito hold lands in _Ii_idia in their own names
on lease for 60 years. December. The abolition of Sati, or “widow
burning,” decreed

--...-us.-----------|-".-..--..---"us-
A_D.
1805
1806
1807
1808
1809
1810
1813
1814
1815
1817
1818
1819
1824
1825
1826
1829


.E'VEI\'TS CONNECTING INDIA WITH EUROPE.
_lxxrii


June 18th. By 2 Wm. IV., c. 117, natives of India allowed to sit as jury-
men and justices of the peace ............. .................................... ..
Au ust 18th. Royal assent given to 3 and 4 Wm. IV., c, 85, by which the
harter is renewed till April 30th, 1854, the pro erty of the Company
being held in trust for the Crown for the service 0 India. From April
22nd, 1834, the China trade of the Company to cease, and all their com-
mercial transactions to close. St. Helena to revert to the Crown ....... ..
April 6th. Markara, capital of Kurg, taken. 10th. Raja deposed, and
Kurg annexed .................................... .........................
October lst. The Simla Proclamation. Lord Auckland declares war against
Dost Muhammad ................................................................ . .
February 20th. Bengal army begins to march towards Afghanistan from
Firfizpur. March 6th. Enters the Bolan Pass. April 12th. The Bom-
bay army enters the Bolan; and May 4th, joins the Bengal army at
Kandahar. July 22nd. Fall of Qiazni. August 7th. Shah Shuj’a enters
Kabul ............................................................................... ..
November 3rd. Dost Muhammad gives himself up to Sir W. Macnaghten
November 2nd. Sir A. Burnes, Lieut. C. Burnes, and Lieut. Broadfoot,
murdered at Kabul. The Afghans rise en masse against the English
and Shah Shuj’a. December 23rd. Sir W. Maenaghten shot by Akbar
Khan. December 26th, The English army at Kabul capitulate ....... ..
J an. 6th. Retreat of the English from Kabul commences. Jan. 13th. The
massacre of the British forces consummated at Gandamak. 18th. Akbar
besieges J alalabad. March 6th. Colonel Palmer surrenders at Qhazni.
September 6th. General Nott retakes Qiazni. 15th. General Pollock
enters Kabul. 17th. Rescue of Lady Sale and the Kabul prisoners.
October 12th. The army begins to return to India ............... ....... ..
February 17th. Sir O. Napier gains the battle of Miani ; and March 24th,
the battle of Dabba or Haidarabad. December 29th. Sir H. Gough
ains the victory of Maharajpur (15 miles NNV. of Gwalior) over the
awalior army, in the interest of the widow of J anka'i Rao Sindhia; and
on the same day, General Grey wins the battle o Paniar (a place 12
miles S.W. of Gwalior) over another division of the same army ....... ..
December 18th. Battle of Mudki, in which Sir H. Hardinge and Sir H.
Gough capture 17 guns from the Sikhs. 21st, 22nd. Battle of Firuz-
shahr; the Sikhs lose 74 guns, the English killed and wounded amount
to 2,415 ............................ .... .................. ..... ...... ..
January 28th. Battle of Aliwal. Sir H. Smith takes.48 guns from the
Sikhs. British killed and wounded, 589. February 18th. Battle of
Sobraon; the Sikhs lose 13,000 men and 67 guns, the English 2,383
killed and wounded. March 9th. Treaty of Lahfir; the J alandar Doab
annexed, the Sikhs to pay £1,500,000, and Dhalip Singh placed on the
throne of Lahfir under the protection of the British. March 16th.
Kashmir given to Gulab Singh by the treaty of Amritsar. Gulab Singh
pays £1,000,000 of the Sikh fine .................. ................ .....
April 20th. Murder of Mr. Vans Agnew and Lieut. Anderson by Mulraj,
the Governor of Multan. July. Lieut. Edwardes and the N11“-ab of
Bhawalpur’s army, under Fath Muhammad (flori, the former Vazir of
Mir Rustam of Slndh, lay siege to Multan. August 18th. Gen. Whish
arrives, and batteries open on the 12th of September; on the 22nd of
which month General VVhish is obliged to raise the siege in consequence
of the desertion of Shir Singh with 6000 Sikhs. December 27th. Siege
of Multan renewed ................. ..
A.D.
1832
1833
1834
1888
1839
1840
1841
1842
1843
1845
1846
1848


lxxviii EVENTS CONNECTING INDIA WITH EUROPE.
January 2nd. Multan taken by storm; 13th. Battle of Chilianwälä. Lord
Gough's army repulsed by the Sikhs, with the loss of 2,357 killed and
wounded; 22nd. Mulraj surrenders, February 21st. Victory of Gujarat
over the Sikhs, who lose 53 guns and all their stores. The British killed
and wounded amount to 807. March 14th. The Sikh army, 16,000
strong, lay down their arms; 29th. The Panjāb annexed. May 6th.
Sir C. Napier arrives in Calcutta as Commander-in-Chief September.
Mulraj sentenced to be transported for life ....................................
February 27th. Sir C. Napier disbands the 66th Bengal Native Infantry
for mutiny. May 25th. Jang Bahádur, the Nipálese Ambassador, arrives
in England. July 2nd. Sir C. Napier resigns.................................
January 28th. Death of the ex-Peshwā Bāji Rao at Bithar, near Kánhpur
£ September 21st. Prince of Wales's Island, Singhapur, and
alacca formed into a separate government, independent of Bengal.
October 29th. British squadron arrives from Rangan to demand redress
of injuries..............................................................................
April 14th. Rangan taken by General Goodwin. , June 4th. Pegu taken
and evacuated; 9th. Prome taken and evacuated. October 9th. Prome
retaken. Nov. 21st. Pegu retaken. Dec. 20th. Pegu annexed.........
June 20th. Proclamation announcing the 2nd Barmese war at an end. Aug.
20th. By 16th and 17th Vict, c. 95, Charter renewed, until Parliament
shall otherwise provide. After April, 1854, the Directors to be reduced
from 24 to 18, the Crown to nominate six. Dec. 11th. Raghuji, the Rajá
of Nagpur, having died without issue, his dominions were annexed......
February 7th. The King of Awadh (Oude) deposed and his kingdom
annexed ..............................................................................
January. Great excitement and discontent apparent among the Bengal
army. 18th. The subject of the greased cartridges discussed amongst
them. 24th. The Telegraph Office at Barrackpur burnt down by #
Sipahis. February 15th. General Hearsey harangues the Barrackpur
Brigade, consisting of the 2nd Grenadiers, the £ Infantry, the
43rd Light Infantry, and the 70th Native Infantry, on the groundless-
ness of their suspicions, Colonel Birch telegraphs to the Schools of
Musketry at Siyalkót and Ambála, in the Panjab, to prohibit the use of
the obnoxious cartridge. February 24th. A detachment of the 34th
Native Infantry communicate their grievances to the 19th Native In-
fantry at Burhānpur (Berhampore); 26th. The 19th Native Infantry
mutiny; but after treaty with Colonel Mitchell give up their arms.
27th. Distribution of chapatís from Kánhpur, being the signal for a
neral revolt. March 6th. The “Bentinck,” sent to Rangún to bring
er Majesty's 84th # to Calcutta, returns with that corps on
the 20th. 29th, Manga Pándi, of the 34th Native Infantry, wounds
Lieut. Baugh, the Adjutant of the regiment. , 31st. The 19th Native
Infantry disbanded at Barrackpur. £ 3rd. Execution of Man
Pandi. 21st. Execution of the Jam’adár of the 34th who commanded
the guard on the day that Lieut. Baugh was wounded. May 3rd. Sir H.
Lawrence suppresses a mutiny of the 7th Awadh Irregulars at Lakhnau
(Lucknow). 6th. The 34th Native Infantry disbanded at Barrackpur.
9th. 85 troopers of the 3rd # Cavalry placed in irons for refusing
the cartridges. 10th. The 3rd Cavalry and the 11th and 20th Native
Infantry rise and set fire to the cantonments at Mirat, set at liberty the
prisoners, murder many Europeans, and march for Delhi. 11th. The
mutineers reach Delhi, and are joined by the whole garrison, the 38th,
the 54th, and 74th Native Infantry, and a battery of Native Artillery.
A.D.
1849
1850
1851
1852
1853
1856


THE MARA'.l_.‘HA PRINCES. lXXlX


The restoration of the Emperor of Delhi to the throne of his ancestors
proclaimed at Delhi. 13th. The 45th and 57th Native Infantry mutiny
at Firfizpur, but the mutiny is quickl quelled; other mutinies at various
laces; the 16th, 26th, and 49th ative Infantry disarmed at Miyan
ir, the cantonment of Lahur. 16th. The Sappers and Miners mutiny
at Mirat, and kill their commanding oflicer, Ca tain Fraser. 22nd. The
24th, 27th, and 51st disarmed at Peshawar; t e 55th Native Infantry
dispersed or destroyed at Mardan; General Anson dies of cholera at
Karnul, and is succeeded by Sir H. Bamard. 30th. The Mirat Brigade
defeat the mutineers of Delhi at (fifiziwd-din nagar. 31st. The 48th,
71st, and part of the 13th Native Infantry, and two troops of the 7th
Cavalry, mutiny at Lakhnau. June 1st. The 44th and 67th Native
Infan disarmed at Agra. 4th. Mutiny of the 37th Native Infantry,
a Sikh egiment, and Irregular Horse at Benares, and of the 6th Native
Infantry at Allahabad, with great slaughter of Europeans. 5th. Mutiny
of the 12th Native Infantry at Jhansi and massacre of all the Euro eans.
6th. Nana $al_1ib attacks Sir H. Wheeler's entrenchments at Kan pur;
the revolt general throughout the Bengal army. 8th. Sir H. Barnard
takes up a position before Delhi, after a sharp action at Badli Sarai, in
which Colonel Chester, the Adjutant-General, is killed. June 27th.
Nana Sahib massacres the Europeans at Kanhpur. Julfi 1st. General
Havel0ck’s victorious advance. 4th. Sir H. Lawrence ki ed by a shell
at Lakhnau. 5th. Sir H. Barnard dies of cholera, and is succeeded by
General Reid. 17th. General Havelock retakes Kanhpur. 22nd. General
Reid succeeded b General Wilson. August 2nd. Death of Gulab Singh.
10th. General icholson joins the camp at Delhi with a strong column.
September 14th—20th. Storm and capture of Delhi, with the loss to
the British of 1178 killed and wounded. 25th. General Havelock and
Sir J. Outram fi ht their way to the Residency at Lakhnau, where the
British garrison ad been besieged since the beginning of June. Nov.
3rd. Sir C. Campbell reaches Kfinhpur. 11th. Advances against Lakhnau.
13th. Defeats the enemy and reaches the Canal. 15th. Takes the Dil-
kusha Palace and the La Martiniére. 16th. Storms the Sikandar bagh.
17th. Opens communication with General Out:-am. 22nd. The garrison
of Lakhnau evacuate their position, and the retreat on Kanh ur com-
mences. 25th. Death of General Havelock. 26th. General indham
defeats the van of the Gwalior Contingent. 27th. He is defeated and
driven into his entrenchments by the Gwalior rebels and N {ma Sahib,
who take and plunder Kanhpur. December 6th. Sir G. Campbell defeats
the Gwalior rebels with great slaughter and the loss of nearly all their
guns ............... .... .............................................................. .. 1867
January 2nd. Sir C. Campbell takes Farrukhabad. J ang Bahadur, the
Nipélese General, advancing with 10,000 Gorkhas to the aid of the
British, takes Gurakpur. 12th, 16th. General Ontram defeats the rebels
at ’Alambfigh_ ...................................................................... .. 1868
rm: msnrirnn rnmcns.
Shahji Bhonslé, born at the village of Verol, near the caves of Elfira .... .. 1694
Enters the service of the Emperor Shah Jahfui as the Chief of 6000 horse 1629
Sivaji, founder of the Marfitha empire, born at Junir, 50 miles N. of


Pfinah, May ....................................................... .. 1627
Murders Afga Khan, the Bijapnr General at Pr tipgar . 1659
Assumes the title of Raja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 1664
Repairs to Delhi ............. .. ..... .. 1666
Ascends the throne ........................ ..... .... ...................... .. 1674


IXXX GOVEBNORS~GENEB;\L OF INDIA.
n.n.
Dies, and is succeeded by his son Shambuji (Sambhajee) ................... .. 1680
Shambuji executed by Aurangzib ............................... .. 1689
Raja Ram, son of Sivaji, by his second wife ........... .. 1690


Shao or Sahu Ra'a, or Sivaji II., son of Shambuyi ___________________ _, 1708
Dies, and the Pes was _gct possession of the who e power, 27th December 1749




Ram Raja, son of Siva_]i II. ....................... .. 1778
Sahu II., adopted son of Ram Raja, 4th of May ..................... .. 1808
Pratap Singh, eldest son of Sahu II., enthroned by the English 1818
Deposed by the English, and sent prisoner to Benarcs ____ ,,,,,,,, _, 1839
Appa Sahib, brother of Pratap Sin h .................... .. 1839 .
Dies, and his territories are annexe by the English ........ . .. ............. .. 1848
rnsrrwis.
Balaji Wishwanath .......................................... . . . ................... .. 1714
Ba'i Rao Balal, son of Balaji 1720
Balaji Ba'i Rao, eldest son of Baji Rao Balal.. 1740


Mahadev ao, second son of Balaji .... ....................................... .. 1761




Narayan Rao, brother of Mahadcv Rao (murdered 3rd August, 1773). 1772
Ra hunath Rao, second son of Baji Rao Balal .. . 1773
Ma adev Rao Narayan, son of Narayan Rao .. ._ 17 74
Death ofltaghunath Rao .......................................................... .. 1784
Mahadev Rao Narayan kills himself, and is succeeded by his cousin, Baji
Rao Raghunath, son of Raghunath, and born at Dhar, 1774 .......... .. 1793
Dcposed by the English, and his dominions annexed, June 3rd ............. .. 1818
1vt'Jv\'Xns AND KINGS or Awnnn (ovnn on onnn).
S’aadat Khan, a Persian nobleman and Saiyid ....... ..... .... .. 1722






’Abdu’l-Mansfir, his nephew, surnamed Safdar J ang. 1739
Shuj’au'd-daulah, sen of Safdar J ang .. .. .. 1756
Asafu'd-daulah, son of Shu"a ............................................. .. 1775
Vazir ’Ali, son of 1’(safu’d- aulah, depose n f ur months by the English
as illegitimate, died a prisoner in Fort William in 1817 ________________ ,_ 1797
S'aadat ‘Ali Qan, brother of A'safu-d-daulah ...... ...... .. 1798
G_h_aziu’d-din Haidar, son of S’aadat ’Ali ......... ................... .. 1814
Assumes the title of King- at the suggestion of the Governor General .... .. 1819
Nasiru’d-din Haidar, son of @aziu’d-din ......... ......................... .. 1827
Muhammad ’A1i Shah, brother of (_‘}l1<'iZ1l.1,d-dill . 1337
Amiad 'Ali Shah, son of Muhammad 'A1i.. __ 1842
Wa_]id ’Ali Shah, son of Amjad ’Ali . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 1847
GOVERNORS-GENERAL OF INDIA.
Alexander Dawson, January 27th, 1748. Lord Cornwallis, February 24th, 1786.
William Fytche, January 8th, 1752. Major-General W. Meadows, April
Roger Drake, August 8th, 1752. V _28th, 1790.
Colonel Robert Clive, March 25th, 1758. S11‘ John Shore (Lord Tcignmouth),
Henry Vansittart, Nov. 23rd, 1759. September 19th, 1792.
Lord Clive (2nd time), June 1st, 1764. Sir Alured Clarke (provisionally), Sept.
John S encer, November 26th, 1764. 20th, 1797.
Harry gerelst, January 26th, 1767. Lord Mornington (Marquess Weflesley),
John Cartier, December 16th, 1769. October 4th, 1797.
Warren Hastings, April 25th, 1771. Marquess Cornwallis (2nd time), January
John Macpherson (provisionally), Feb. 9th, 1805; died October 6th. l
1st, 1785. Sir Geor e H. Barlow (appointment re-
Lord Macartncy (declined oflice), July, voked_ y H.M.), Feb. 9th, 1806.
1785. 1 Lord Mmto, July 19th, 1806.


HINDö FEASTS AND FASTs.
lxxxi
Earl of Moira (Marquess of Hastings), George, Lord Auckland, Aug. 12th, 1836.
November 18th, 1812.
George Canning (declined office), March,
27th, 1822.
Edward, Lord Ellenborough (recalled by
Court of Directors, May 1st, 1844),
Oct. 20th, 1841.
William, Lord Amherst, Oct. 23rd, 1822. W. W. Bird ( £ 1844.
(
W. B. Bayley (provisionally) March | Sir Henry
23rd, 1828.
ardinge (Wiscount Har-
dinge), May 6th, 1844.
Lord Wm. Bentinck, March 13th, 1828. James Andrew, Marquess of Dalhousie,
William, Lord Heytesbury (appointment
revoked by H.M.), Jan. 28th, 1835.
Sir Charles Metcalfe (provisionally),
March 20th, 1835.
August 4th, 1847.
Charles John, Wiscount Canning, July,
1855.
PRESIDENTs of THE BOARD OF COMMISSIONERS FOR INDIA SINCE 1784.
Thomas, Lord Sydney, September 3rd,
1784.
*: Hon. W. Wyndham Grenville,
March 12th, 1790.
Right Hon. Henry Dundas, June 28th,
1793.
George, Wiscount Lewisham, May 19th,
1801
Robert Viscount Castlereagh, July 12th,
1802.
Gilbert, Lord Minto, Feb. 12th, 1806.
Right Hon. Thomas Grenville, July
16th, 1806.
Right Hon. George Tierney, October
1st, 1806.
Right Hon. Robert Dundas, April 6th,
1807.
Dudley, Earl of Harrowby, July 16th,
1807. -
Right Hon. R. Dundas (2nd time),
ovember 13th, 1809.
Robert, Earl of Buckinghamshire, April
7th, 1812.
Right Hon. George Canning, June 20th,
816
1816.
Right Hon. Charles Bathurst, July
16th, 1821.
Right Hon. C. Watkin Williams Wynn,
uly 8th, 1822.
Robert Dundas Wiscount Melville, Feb.
7th, 1828.
Edward, Lord Ellenborough, April 24th,
1828
Right Hon. Charles Grant, December
6th, 1830.
Edward, Lord Ellenborough (2nd time),
December 20th, 1834,
Right Hon. Sir John C. Hobhouse,
Bart., April 29th, 1835.
Edward, Lord Ellenborough (3rd time),
April 9th, 1841.
W. F. Fitzgerald, Lord Fitzgerald and
Wesci, October 28th, 1841.
Frederic J., Earl of Ripon, May 23rd,
1843.
Sir J. C. Hobhouse, Lord Broughton,
(2nd '' July 10th, 1846.
Right Hon. Fox Maule, Feb. 5th, 1852.
Right Hon. J. C. Herries, Feb. 27th,
1852.
Right Hon. Sir Charles Wood, Bart,
ecember 28th, 1852.
Right Hon. R. Vernon Smith, 1855.
Edward, Lord Ellenborough (4th time),
March, 1858.
FEASTS, CEREMONIES, SECTS, DRESS, AND MANNERS OF THE NATIVES.
HINDU FEASTs.
In the subjoined brief description of the principal native holi-
days, it will be seen that the order observed is that by the months,
commencing with the month which corresponds to January and
ending with that which answers to December.
Makar Sankránti (from Makar, the Sanskrit name for a monster,
with the head and forelegs of an antelope, and the body and tail of
a fish, the sign of the Zodiac corresponding to Capricorn, and
Sankránti, the passage of the sun from one sign of the Zodiac to
8


lxxxii HINDü FEASTs AND FASTs.
another), held on the 5th of Paush (Dec.-Jan.). From this day,
when the sun reaches the most S. sign of the Zodiac till the
time he leaves the most N. sign, is called Uttarāyanam, and
the other half of the year Dakshináyanam. The days of Utta-
rāyanam are considered lucky, and marriages and the ceremonies
of investiture with the sacred cord are then performed, while
the days of Dakshindyanam are held to be unlucky. On Makar
Sankránti the Hindús bathe, and rub their bodies with the tilah
or sesamum seed, the favorite grain of the sun. On returning
home they feast brâhmans, and present them with cups of bell
metal filled with the sesamum seed, and with money. Friends
and relations are invited to dinner, and the tilah seeds are dis-
tributed with the words “Receive these tilahs mixed with sugar,
and be friendly with me throughout the year!” The sun is the
sole deity worshipped this day. On the following day women
distribute presents among their own sex.
Rathsaptimi (from Rathah, Skr., a car, and Saptami, 7th day of
the month), is the 7th of Māgha (Jan.-Feb.), the day on which a new
sun is supposed to have mounted his car, and a feast is accordingly
observed in honor of the sun. On this day the present Manwantaram,
or reign of a distinct Manu, commenced. There are 14 Manwantarams
in each Kalpah or grand period of creation and destruction, and the
present is the 7th Manwantaram of this Kalpah.
Shivarātri (Shiva, the Hindú deity, and Rátri, night), a cele-
brated festival on the 14th of the moon’s wane in Māgha, in honor
of Shiva. The 14th of the dark half of every month is observed
by the votaries of that god, but that day in Māgha is peculiarly
sacred. The followers of Shiva fast during the day, and at night
repair to the temples with a bráhman, who pours water over the
Lingam or Phallus, the emblem of Shiva, and decorates it with
flowers. He then reads over the 1000 names of the god, and
at each name the worshippers cast leaves of the Vilva, commonly
called Bel, the Ægle Marmelos, over the Lingam. This is done four
times during the night, which is consequently a complete vigil from
eight p.m. to five a.m. There is a tradition that on this night a
hunter took shelter in a Bel tree, and to amuse himself plucked
branches and threw them down, which, accidentally falling on a
Lingam, so gratified Shiva that he immediately carried the hunter
up to Kailās, his celestial abode. On this day there is a fair at
Elephanta.
Holi (etymology doubtful), a most popular festival held on
the full moon of Phalgun (Feb.-March) in honor of Krishna, the
day previous being called Dolā or Dolavatra, in commemoration
of the god's sportive swinging. This day is held as a complete
saturnalia. An excellent account of the festival will be found in


Burnt’! rmsrs AND mstrs; lxxxiii
Broughton’s Letters from a Maratha Camp. Red powders mixed
with water are squirted over every one, rude jests are passed, women
addressed in ribald language, and persons are sent on bootless errands
as in England on the 1st of April. At the close of the festival a
pile is lighted in every village, on which a Wheaten cake is placed,
and the right of offering this is considered an honorary privilege.
The Rds, or circular dance, by boys, is performed on this day in
commemoration of Krishna dancing with the cowherdesses.
Gm_Zo_l2’ Paahoa (from the Hindu word Gudafi, “a paper kite,”
Padwa, flying), the Hindu New Year’s day, is held on the new moon
of Uhaitmh (March-April). In the morning the Hindu anoints
himself with oil, and then bathes in warm water. He then erects
a. pole bearing a flag, and crowned with a brass or copper vessel, in
front of his house. This represents the banner of Indra, who is
supposed to be similarly honored by the gods in their sphere. The
leaves of the N imb tree /Mam Asadimchtaj are then chewed.
Pitjri or worship is then paid to the Almanac, and its predictions
are heard from the mouths of the Jyotishis or astrologers, to whom
presents are given. This is an auspicious day for beginning to
build, or engaging in any undertaking.
Rdm Naumt (from Rdm, the Skr. name of the 7th Incarnation of
Vishnu, and Naumi, 9th day of the month Chaitra) (March-April), a
festival in honor of the birth of Rama, at Ag/odhyah, A’wadh or Oudh.
It is celebrated from the lst of Ohaitm Shualh to the 9th. The temples
of Rama are decorated and illuminated, and readers recite the verses
of the Ramayana or other poems descriptive of the glorious acts of
the god. The red powder called gulzil, which is the same as that
used at the H'ol1’, and composed of barley meal or rice paste, or the
Dupe natans, dyed with balcam (sappan) wood, is thrown about. On
the 9th the Hindus fast all day.
Ndg Pzmakmnt (Skr. Ndg, the cobra, and Panchmni, 5th day), a
day sacred to certain demigods called Noigas, z'.e. Pythons, the 5th
of 8'12/rdvan (July-August). On this day Krishna slew the great
serpent Kdli. Ceremonies are performed to ensure protection against
the bite of snakes.
NdriyaZP1’trr_tamé, cocoa-nut day (from Ndriyal, a cocoa-nut, and
Pitmamd, the day of the full moon), is held on the 15th of the
light half of SI:/rzivan, and is reckoned to be the last day of the
rainy season, and on that day cocoa-nuts are thrown into the sea
as a propitiatory offering for those who are about to embark, as the
season for voyages now commences.
J1/mmah Aqhtamf (from Skr. Janmdlz, birth, and Ask?_§mni, eighth
-day of the month), is a feast held on the 8th of the dark half of
Shrdvan in honor of the birth of Krishna, who was born at Mathura
on that day at midnight. A sect of Hindus keep the following day


lxxxiv zimiaii rmsrs AID rssrs.
sacred instead of this as being the day when Krishna was carried off
to the house of N and in Gokul to save him from the fury of his
uncle Kaiis, and this sect call their holiday Gokul A.gh_tami'. Which-
ever day is kept, the Hindiis fast the whole day, and at night bathe
and worship an image of the infant Krishna, which they adorn with
the tulsf ( O03/mum Sanctum j and other flowers. Fruit and par-
ticular kinds of grain are eaten at 11 p.m., rice being prohibited.
On Gokul Aehtamf the cowherds keep up great rejoicings, dancing »
with joined hands, and throwing curds over one another. The
Bhagat or head priest of the temple of Kanhoba is supposed to have
miraculous powers on this day. He dances a frantic dance, and
soourges himself and his disciples.
Prdcki Amdwasya (Skr. Prdchi, Eastern, Amdwasg/a, produced
in the new moon), a festival on the last day of the dark half of
Shrdmm, when women Worship the 64 Yoginfs or female attendants
of Durga with the hope of obtaining offspring. Prdcht is a god-
dess of the East called by the people of the Konkan and Dakhan .
Petkitri’. Wealthy Banyaiis and others from Gujarat go to the
temple of Valukeshwar in Bombay, remain in the Dita/ramsdlak all
night, and bathe the next morning in the tank, which is called
Bdngangri (from Bdn, an arrow, and Gangd, the Ganges). Shrédhas
or ceremonies for the deliverance of ancestors from the thraldom of
Yuma, the Regent of Hades, are also performed on the margin of
the tank. The rest of the day is spent in amusement, but par-
ticularly in gambling.
Ganesh Ohauth or Obaturtkflfrom Ganesk, name of the son of Shiva
and Parvati, the deity who presides over wisdom and who removes
obstacles, and Okauth, the 4th day of the month), is a festival on the
4th of Biuiahapad in honor of the birth of Ganesh. Clay images
of the deity are formed, worshipped for eight or nine days, and then
thrown into the water. The Chinchwad (Chinchore) man-god who
resides at the village so called is thought to be an incarnation of
Ganesh, who granted to an ascetic who had won his favor that he
would take human shape in his family for seven generations. This
is the third day on which clay images are made; the worship of
Mrittikd, or earth, being on these occasions enjoined by the Shastras.
The other days are Nzig Panchamt, when a snake of clay is wor-
shipped; and Gokul Ashtamt, when a clay image of the infant
Krishna is made, and similarly adored. On the day of Gzmesh
Ckaturthi, Hindus are prohibited from looking at the moon, and if by
accident they should see it they get their neighbours to revile them
in the hope the calamity likely to follow will be limited to this abuse.
Rishi Par_wkam£.—On the day following Gtl7_t88h Okauth the seven
lfiqhis or sages are worshipped.
Gauri (Skr., a virgin, a name of Parvati). On this festival,


nrnnri rmsrs AND msrs. lxxxv
which follows two days after the above, the wife of Shiva is wor-
shipped as a tender maid. Cakes are made in the shape of pebbles,
and eaten at night.
Wdman Dwddashi (Skr. Wdman, a dwarf, Dwddaqhi, 12th day
of the month), a feast in honor of the 5th incarnation of Vishnu in
the shape of a dwarf, in which form he beguiled Bali, the universal
monarch, to grant him as much ground as he could compass at three
steps. On receiving his boon he set one foot on earth, one on the
sky, and with a third thrust Bali down to the infernal regions. It
is held on the 12th of Bkddrapad (Aug.-Sept).
Pitra Pa/ash (Skr. Pitrah, paternal ancestors, Pa/:§h, half of the
lunar month). The dark half of the month B/uidrapad, or the last
day of it, or new moon of Askwin, sacred to the Pitris or progenitors.
At this time the celebration of funeral rites is peculiarly proper.
Offerings of water and fire are made to the manes.
Dasahrd (Skr. dashan, ten). On this day, the tenth of the light
half of Aahwin, Rama marched against Ravana, the demon king of
Ceylon. The Marathas therefore selected it as the day for com-
mencing their inroads into foreign states. They worship the sword
and other weapons of war, and beseech them to be propitious. They
go to the temples in procession, carrying flowers and branches of
the Palds tree (the Butea Frondosaj, which is thought to represent
gold. They give presents to the brahmans with leaves of this tree.
It is said that on this day the Pandu Princes, after twelve years of
exile, commenced their great war with their cousins the Kauravas.
Horses are decorated with flowers in imitation of what the Pandus
did. The nine days previous are called the Naurdtri, nine nights;
and the votaries of Durga, particularly women, keep vigils with
dance and song during those nights. It is also said that on this
day Durga slew the Maheshdsur or bufl?-alo-headed demon. Maratha
Princes review their armies at this feast, it being, in fact, the con-
clusion of the rains, when military operations can be undertaken.
Dewdli (Skr. Dipah, “ a lamp,” A’lt, “ a row,") “ feast of
lamps,” a festival held with great rejoicing on the new moon of
Kdrtik (Oct.-Non), in honor of Lakshmi, the wife of Vishnu. On
this day, new accounts being opened, pztjd, or worship, is performed
by bankers and merchants to their new and old books. The feast
lasts five days, beginning with the 13th of the dark half of Ashwin,
during which houses are cleaned, white-washed, and illuminated. A
quadrangular floor is made in front of the house, and painted different
colors, and is called Rangalt. The 13th of the dark half of Ashwin
is called Dkan Tryodaski (Skr. .D/um, wealth, Tryodashi, 13th) ; on
this day a light is made, and dedicated to Yama. The next day is
called Narak Chaturdashi (Narak, hell, Chaturdaahi, 14th), from
_JVrrraIca'sur, a daemon slain by Vishnu. The mistress of each house


lxxxvi MUHAMMADAN FRASTS AND FASTs.
places wicks in silver or brass dishes, and each male makes her a
present. Next day is the new moon, and is sacred to Saraswati,
the goddess of learning, the same as Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth.
A basket is filled with rubbish, a lighted lamp put in it, and it is
cast out with these words, “Let all the misery and troubles go,
and the kingdom of Bali come!” Next day is Yama devitiya
(Yama, death, devitiya, 2nd day); and as Yama on this day visited
his sister, Hindús go to visit their sisters and make them presents.
Gambling is carried on vigorously throughout the whole festival.
Kártik Purnamá, a festival on the full moon of Kārtik, in honor
of Wishnu's victory over Tripurásur, “the daemon of the three
cities.” A great fair is held in Bombay at the temple of Vāluk-
eshwar.
MUHAMMADAN FEASTS AND FASTs.
Muharram (Ar. Muharram, “most sacred.”)—A fast and solemn
mourning, commencing on the evening when the new moon of the
first month (Muharram) becomes visible. It lasts, including the
Ziyarat, “ or visiting the grave,” till the 12th. But the fast is for
10 days, and is hence called 'A'shära, from the Arabic word signify-
ing “ten.” Houses are set apart for the mourning ceremonies, and
are called 'A'shur-khanah, “ten-day house;” Táziyah-khanah, “house
of lamentation;” and A'stánah, “threshold,” or “fakir's residence.”
The moment the new moon is seen a spade is struck into the earth,
and at this spot a pit is dug two or three days after for a bonfire.
The striking the spade is called kodal: márnd, and the bonfire alláwa.
At night men dance round the fires, fencing with swords, and spring-
ing through and into the flames with cries of Yā 'Ali ! O'Ali,
Sháh Hasan Sháh Husain | Dulhá, “bridegroom,” etc. Instead
of the 'A'shür-khánah rich people have an Imám barah, which is
often also a Mausoleum. Here verses are chaunted in honor of Hasan
and Husain, in memory of whom the fast is held. They were the
sons of 'Ali, the cousin, and Fátimah, the daughter, of Muhammad,
and wife of 'Ali. Of these two brothers, the elder, Hasan, was
poisoned by Yazid, the son of Máwiah; and the younger, Husain,
was murdered with all his retinue at Karbalá-a, in Turkish Arabia,
in the 46th year of the Hijrah. Zainu'l-'Abidin, eldest son of
Husain, alone escaped. On the night of the 7th, a representation
of Burák, the horse or mule on which Muhammad ascended to
heaven, is brought out. On the 10th, a bier called tâbit or tdziyah
is carried in procession. It is gaily decorated and lighted up, and
is intended to represent Husain's tomb at Karbalá-a. It is during
this procession that furious encounters take place between the
Muslims and the Hindús, and between different processions, for it
is a point of honor not to give way. The Shí'ahs alone observe the


MUHAMMADAN FEASTS AND FASTs. lxxxvii
fast and these rites, which are strongly condemned by the Sunnis.
Before the martyrdom of Hasan and Husain this fast was observed
as a feast, and is still reckoned one of the lesser 'I'ds.
A'khiri Chahār Shambah.—A lesser 'I'd, or minor festival, held
on the last Wednesday of the second month (Safar) on account of
Muhammad having recovered a little on this day during his last
illness, and taken a bath for the last time. It is usual to write out
seven benedictions, wash off the writing while the ink is fresh and
drink it. On this day it is proper to bathe, wear new clothes, pre-
pare sweetmeats, walk in gardens, and repeat prayers.
Bari Wafát (H. Bari, great, Ar. Wafát, death).—A fast held on
the 13th of the third month (Rabiu'l-awwal) in commemoration of
the death of the Prophet, which took place on the day previous.
On this day the Kadam-i rasil, Prophet's foot, the impression of a
foot on stone, or the mü-i mubarak, sacred hair of Muhammad, is
brought forth and honored. On the 11th and 12th processions take
place at night.
Pir-i-dastgir.—A festival on the 11th of the fourth month
(Rabiu's sani) in honor of a famous saint who has 96 names. He
is better known as Saiyid 'Abdu'l Kādir Jilani or Ghilāni, and as
Pir Pirán, and is reverenced both by Sunnis and Shí'ahs. He was
a celebrated doctor of the Sûffs, born in Ghilān, who taught at
Baghdād, where his tomb is still held sacred. S'adi studied under
him, and mentions him in the third story of the second chapter of
his Gulistán. On the day above mentioned, as well as during the
ravages of cholera or any plague, it is usual to carry a large green
flag in his name. Vows are made to this saint for offspring. His
sister's son, Saiyid Ahmad Kabir is the patron of the remarkable
religious mendicants called Gurzmár, for whom see Kānūn-i Islám,
p. 191. -
Chird ghan-i Zindah Shah Madár.—A festival on the 17th of the
fifth month (Jumáda'l-awwal) in honor of Badi'u'd-din, a Syrian
saint, who is said to have fixed his abode at Makkhanpur in Awadh
(Oudh), and to have lived to a great age, or to be yet living, whence
his name of Zindah (living). His tomb there, or cenotaph, is visited
annually by a million pilgrims, and the fair lasts 17 days. Dam
Madár, “the breath or spell of Madár,” is supposed, like St. Oran's
rhyme, to be a charm against bites of snakes, the violence of fire,
and, in short, all evil. His flag is black, and black cows are
sacrificed in his name.
'Urs-i Kādir Walt.—A festival on the 11th of the sixth month
(Jumada'l-ākhir) in honor of Kādir Wali or Khwājah Mu'inu'd-
din Chishti, one of whose shrines is at Nāgār, near Nāgapatnam,
and another at Ajmir. This saint was born in Sijistán (Autobio-


lxxxviii MUHAMMADAN FEASTS AND FASTs.
graphy of Lutfullah, p. 345) in the year 527 A.H., and lived to the
age of 108. He reached Ajmír during the reign of the Emperor
Kutbu'd-din Ibak, where he married the daughter of Saiyid Husain
Mashhadi, though himself a Sunni and the Saiyid a Shi’ah. A
magnificent mosque was built near the tomb at Ajmír by the Emperor
Jahāngir, 1027 A.H. He is greatly revered by the Mápillahs
(Moplahs).
Miróji-i Muhammad.—The ascension of Muhammad on the 27th
of the seventh month (Rajab), when the angel Gabriel mounted him
on Burák and conveyed him to heaven.
Shab-i Barât, or night of record, is a festival held on the 16th
of the eighth month (Sh'abán), when it is said the actions of men
for the ensuing year are recorded. It is passed in mirth, with
illuminations and the discharge of fireworks. This is one of the
three inferior I'ds. The whole night should be spent in reading the
Kur’ān, and a fast should be observed next day.
Ramazán Rd Rozah.—The Muhammadan Lent, which commences
from the morning that succeeds the evening when the new moon of
the ninth month (Ramazán) is observed. From two to four a.m. a
meal may be taken, and from that time till sunset it is unlawful to
eat, drink, or have connubial intercourse. On the 20th or 21st the
Shí'ahs celebrate the might of 'Ali, as he is said to have died on one
of these nights, it is uncertain which. They perambulate the streets
beating their breasts, and carry a bier (tābut) in procession. On the
night of the 27th it is said the Kur'ân descended from heaven, and
it is therefore called the Lailatu'l-Kadr, or night of power. A
vigil should be kept all night. On this night the Ghair Mahdis
(see Sects) have dreadful encounters with the Sunnis and Shí'ahs,
and those who are killed are supposed to be rewarded as martyrs.
'I'du'l-Fitr, “the festival of breaking fast,” or Ramazán ki 'I'd,
“the 'I'd of Ramazán,” called in the Könün-i Islam “the feast of
alms,” is held on the 1st of the tenth month (Shawwal). On this
day all Muslims bathe, put on new clothes, apply antimony.to the
eyes, and perfume themselves. They then distribute the fitr or
Sadkah, “alms,” which is 24 ser of wheat, dates, grapes, or any
grain used for food given to the poor or to religious mendicants.
All then proceed to the 'I'dgāh, repeating “God is great. There is
no God but God.” The priest ascends to the middle step of the
mimbar or pulpit and reads the Khutbah or Friday sermon, preceded,
however, by a short thanksgiving. He then descends to the lower-
most step, which is the third with Shí'ahs, and the fourth with
Sunnis. On this step he recounts the virtues of the king, and prays
for him. The king is he whose coin is current, but in India the
King of Delhi has been prayed for, not the Company. After that a
general prayer is offered, and the congregation rise with a shout of


FEASTs of THE PARsis. lxxxix
Din “Faith !” and fire off muskets. The evening is spent in
rejoicings. Nách girls attend in the men's apartments, and the
domnis, a class of singers who exhibit before females only, present
themselves in the seraglios.
Charághān-i Bandah Nawaz.—A festival on the 16th of the
eleventh month (Z. K’adah) in honor of a saint called Bandah Nawaz
“slave-cherisher,” or Gish darāz, “the long ringleted.” His
shrine is at Gulbarga (Calburgah), in the Nizām's territories.
Bakar: 'I'd or 'I'd-i Kurban (Ar. Bakar, a bull, Kurban, a sacri-
fice), a feast on the 10th of the twelfth month (Z Hijjah) in honor
of Abraham’s intending to offer up Ism’ail (Ishmael), whom, and
not Ishāk (Isaac), the Muslims say he was called upon to sacrifice.
On this day, sheep, cows, or camels are sacrificed, for those who
offer them will be carried with lightning speed over the
Pāl-sirát, or bridge of trial, into heaven. In the morning all attend
at the 'Idgäh. This and the 'I'du-l fitr are the two great festivals
of the Muslims.
FEASTs oF THE PARsís.
The dates are given according to the system of the Kadamis, for
which see SECTs.
Nawroz or Pappāti, New Year's day, the 1st of Farwardin (Aug.-
Sept.). On this day the Pársis honor the memory of Yazdijird, the
last of the Sassanian dynasty, who was dethroned by the Khalifah
'Umar about A.D. 640. His accession forms their aera, so that the
present year is with them 1227. Their year contains 12 months of
30 days each, and they add 5 days at the end of the year. In
every 120 years a month is intercalated. On this day they go to
the Fire-temples, and pass the day in visiting and merry parties.
Akbar borrowed this and the other festivals of the Pársis for his new
faith called Ilahi Din, “Religion of God,” which he vainly tried to
introduce. On the 19th of this month a feast is kept in honor of
the angel who presides over the month.
Ardibihisht, a day sacred to the angel of this month (Sept.-
Oct.), held on the 3rd. It is supposed that the angel presiding over
this month has the keys of Paradise. It is a fortunate season for
going to battle, and presenting petitions to a king.
Kh'urdād-Sál.—The birthday of Zartasht or Zoroaster. He was
born in the city of Rehe in the north of Persia, 520 B.C., and his
birthday is kept on the 1st of the month Khurdád (Oct.-Nov.) The
religious ceremonies are performed by the women and the priests.
On the 6th it is considered fortunate to marry. On the 20th a great
victory was obtained over the tyrant Zahhák.
Nowroz-i Jamshid, the New Year's day of Jamshid, is observed
about the 21st of March, in the month Mihr (Feb.-March), and pro-


XC HINDU CEREMONTEs.
bably on account of the vernal equinox. The feast is kept by the
Pársis with great merriment, but without religious ceremonies.
The Muktads are certain days at the end of the year on which
ceremonies in honor of the dead are performed before a pile of brass
or silver vessels filled with water. The custom is supposed to have
been borrowed from the Hindús.
HINDU CEREMONIEs.
It obviously would be impossible to supply here the most abridgsd
account of Hindú or Muslim ceremonies in general. All that can
be done is to notice very briefly some of the observances at births,
marriages, and deaths.
Birth.—At the birth of an infant a drop of honey should be
given it out of a golden spoon before dividing the navel string. This
is called Jal-Karan. When a father first sees his son he should
take a piece of gold in his hand, offer a sacrifice to Brahmā, and
anoint the forehead of the child with the ghi left on the fingers at
the close of the sacrifice. A string of seven or nine threads and five
blades of the Durba grass must be bound by the father round the
wrist of the child. Other rites are to be observed on naming the
child 12 days after birth, on bringing him outside the house when
three months old, on feeding him with the hand at six months, and
on shaving the head at three years.
Marriage.—Among Bráhmans the male may be married at any
time after the Munj, or investiture with the sacred thread, which is
done within the age of eight years, and among other castes at any
age. The female should not be ten years old, and her age must be
less than that of her husband; and she should be married before the
appearance of the signs of puberty. The Shasters mention eight
kinds of marriage, but only one is observed by the higher castes,
named Brahma, when the charges are severally incurred by the
fathers of the parties. The principal marriage ceremonies among
Bráhmans are the Laganpatriká, or writing by the Joshi or astrologer
the names of the parties, and the day and hour at which the
wedding is to take place; the Saptapadi, or walking round a fire
three times, at each time seven steps, and tying together the gar-
ments of the parties, and the hom or burnt offering; after which
the contract is indissoluble. The girl is given away by her father
in his own house, in which it is usual for her to remain a certain
time, after which she proceeds to the residence of her father-in-law,
where her husband also resides, or to that of the latter, should it be
otherwise. Particular months and junctions of the planets are
prescribed for the celebration of marriages in different castes; as
also the same castes in different countries have their peculiar cere-
monies, which are too various to be described here.


MUHAMMADAN CEREMONIES. xci
Death.—On the death of a man the performance of his funeral
obsequies (Kriyas) and of the monthly and annual purificatory
ceremonies, devolves on his heir. The principal times for per-
forming Shrádh are eleven days after death; secondly, every
month; and thirdly, on the anniversary of death. Bráhmans are
unclean for ten days after the death of a relation, the military class
for twelve, the mercantile for fifteen, and Shudras for thirty.
Among the Hindús generally the body of the deceased is burnt, but
that of an infant under two years of age is buried. The Shrádh
consists in the offering of rice, flowers, water, etc., to the deceased
and to his manes, in order to enable his soul to ascend to the heaven
of the Pitris, or great progenitors of the human race.
MUHAMMADAN CEREMONIEs.
Birth.—At the end of the seventh month of pregnancy the family
that can afford it make great rejoicings, put new clothes on the
woman, and adorn her with flowers. This is called Satwdsá (sapta,
seven, masa, month). The same thing is repeated in the ninth
month, and the merry vigils then kept up are called Ratjaga (rat,
night, jagna, to watch). A lemon, some Nimb leaves, and a Kathar,
or poniard, are laid near the parturient woman’s head to ward
off misfortune, and for drink she is allowed boiled water in
which a red hot horse shoe or other iron has been slaked.
In general, she has nothing to eat for the first six days
but achwani, caudle. On the 6th and 40th days if a stranger
enters the room rue is thrown on the fire to avert evil,
and an iron plate and a broom are placed in a corner to keep
off evil spirits. No dog or cat must come near, and the very name
of a cat must not be mentioned. The birth of a boy is always hailed
with much greater rejoicing than that of a girl. After the infant
has been wrapped in swaddling clothes, the summons to prayer must
be uttered aloud in his right ear, and the Muhammadan creed in his
left. Some man of pious repute must dip his finger in honey and
insert it in the infant's mouth before it is put to the breast. The
friends or kith of the mother repair in a body to the house, and
place a few blades of green grass in the husband's hair, for which
he must reward them with a present.
The name of the child takes place on the day of its birth or that
day week. It belongs to its father's tribe invariably; hence if the
father be a Saiyid the first name is Saiyid or Mír. After mature
age this is often dropped. Certain names are peculiar to certain
familes or tribes. Thus Shekhs will have Khwajah, Ghulām, 'Ali,
Bakhsh, Din, 'Abd, etc., added to their surnames. Mughuls are
marked by the names Mirzah, Beg, A'gha, or A'ká; Patháns by
Khān as the last name. If the father be a Shekh and the mother a


xcii MUHAMMADAR CEREMONTEs.
Saiyidání, Sharif is added or prefixed. If the father be a Mughul
and the mother a Saiyidání, the offspring are called Khwājahzādah.
Sáhib, Miyan, and Ján, are loving titles given by parents, but
often supersede the true names. Female surnames for Saiyidánís
are Begam, Bibi or Bi, Nissa, and Shāh; for Mughulānis, Khánam;
for Pathánís, Khātūn or Báná, but, when illegitimate, Bái is in-
variably subjoined.
The choice of the particular name from the proper class is
decided either by opening the Kur’ān at a venture, and taking the
first letter of the first line of the page at which the book is opened
as the first letter of the name, and then making a child select a paper
from among several on which names beginning with that letter are
written, or by the planet in whose hour the child is born. For
further information on this subject see Kānun-i Islam, p. 18.
On the chillá, or 40th day, certain ceremonies are performed
when the mother ceases to be unclean, and then, and not till then,
she may pray, touch the Kur’ān, and enter the masjid. A sacrifice
is sometimes offered of two he-goats for a boy and one for a girl.
On the same day, or the day after, the child is shaved and the hair
is carried to the water-side and launched on a raft into the river,
after a prayer in the name of Khizr or Elias has been said over it.
Sometimes the hair, or a lock of it, is allowed to grow in honor of
some saint.
Marriage.—Marriages are contracted at a very early age, and
are solemnized when the youth is 18 and the lady 13 or 14 at most.
When a youth is desirous of marrying he or his parents send out
some female emissaries called Madówatniyah, who report the charms
or the riches of such and such maidens. Astrology then steps in,
and, for its precepts, the Kanûn-i Islam must be consulted, where
they are laid down at length, p. 86, etc. The ceremonies attending
betrothment are six—the distribution of betel leaves, sending pre-
sents to the bride called “sugar-bringing, solicitation, or wooing,”
in which the bridegroom goes on horseback attended with musicians
and persons carrying presents to the house of the bride, sending
sweet cakes from the bride to the bridegroom, treading the threshold,
when the bride's mother gives a handkerchief, a gold ring, and some
money to the bridegroom, and tasting salt, till which the bridegroom
must eat only sweet things in the house of the bride. Subsequent
to these there are various ceremonies of anointing and bathing, after
which the wedding garments are prepared. Then follow eight cere-
monies, the most important of which are the carriage of the bride-
groom's wedding gifts to the bride, and the conveyance of the bridal
paraphernalia to the bridegroom's house; after these the Shab-
gasht, or nocturnal perambulation, takes place. This is the grandest


Mnnsnmsnan cnnnmomss. xciii
ceremony of all. The bridegroom, gaily dressed, and attended by
musicians and a company of friends, rides on horseback or on an
elephant to the mosque, where he ofl'ers three short prayers, and
then proceeds to the bride's house. It is usual to oppose his
entrance until he bestows a present on some of the bride’s friends;
and, on entering the court-yard, he dismounts, and is carried by a
man whose advance is also resisted till further presents are given.
The marriage ceremony is performed by the Ké._zi or his deputy,
who, after removing two veils from the bridegroom’s face, causes
him to repeat after him, in Arabic, first a form of deprecation, then
the 109th, 112th, 113th, and 114th chapters of the Kur’an; then
the five creeds; then the articles of belief; and, lastly, a thanks-
giving. After this the bridegroom repeats the marriage contract,
when the hand of the bride is joined with his, and the Kazi then
offers a supplication that the couple may be as loving as Adam and
Eve, Abraham and Sarah, etc.
Death.--When a man is dying, a reader of the Kur’é.n is sent
for, who reads the chapter called the Sarah-i-3/dsin and two creeds.
Sweet shcirbat is then poured down the throat of the moribund person,
and this is said to facilitate the exit of the spirit. Mrs. Meer gives
the following account of the ceremonies attending washing the
corpse and shrouding it. They will be found at much greater length
in the Kdnwtn-i Islém :—“ The dead body of a Muslim, in about six
hours after life is extinct, is placed in a coflin and conveyed to the
place of burial, with parade suited to the rank he held in life. A
tent or lpandt (screen) is pitched in a convenient place, where water
is available, near the tomb, for the purpose of washing and preparing
the dead body for interment. They take the dead body out of the
cofiin and thoroughly bathe it. \Vhen dry, they rub powdered
camphor on the hands, feet, knees, and forehead, these parts having,
in the method. of prostrating at prayer, daily touched the ground.
The body is then wrapped neatly in a winding-sheet of neat calico,
on which have been written particular chapters of the Kur’an. The
religious man generally prepares his own winding-sheet, keeping it
always ready, and occasionally taking out the monitor to add an-
other verse or chapter as the train of thought may have urged at the
time.” The coffin is carried to the grave by the relations, who
repeat all the way, “ There is no God but God, and Muhammad is
the prophet of God ;” or another creed, or sacred verse. The Ka_zi
reads service for the poor and friendless, and the nearest relation, or
any other required to do so, for the opulent. Then some one calls
three times, “The funeral service is beginning,” on which any
persons within hearing run to the spot, and reverently take part in
the service. All stand up in three rows, with an Imdm, or head, in
front. The service consists of four confessions of faith and one


xciv nmnii sacrs.
benediction, after which the nearest relative calls out, “All have
leave to go.” The body is then lowered into the grave, and is laid
on its back, with the head to the north and face towards Makkah or
the west. Each person then takes up a little earth, and after
repeating the 112th chapter of the Kur’é.n, or the verse, “We
created you of earth and return you to earth, and we shall raise you
out of the earth on the day of resurrection,” puts the earth softly
into the grave. Fdtilzah for the dead is then offered, first for the
person just interred, then for all the dead in that burying ground.
It consists in saying, “ I offer this prayer for such a one.” The 1st
and 111th chapters of the Kur’an are then recited. Alms are then
distributed, and all depart. On the 3rd, 10th, 20th, 30th, and 40th
days after the demise the grave is visited and various ceremonies are
performed. On the third day the whole Kur’an is read through
near the grave; and after three, six, nine, and twelve months
jdtilbah is recited.
Hmnfi Snows.
The principal Hindu Sects are the Saivas, the Vazshqzavas, the
Shdlctas, the Bauddkas, the Jainahs, and the Si/aka. The followers
of Chaitanya are rather reformed Vaishnavas than a distinct sect,
as reckoned by Ward. The Saivas are the worshippers of Shiva,
and worship the Ling or Phallus. They are distinguished by
marking their foreheads with three carv_ed lines like a half moon,
to which is added a round dot on the nose. It is made either with
the clay of the Ganges or sandal wood, or with ashes of cow dung.
The religious mendicants called Sannydsis belong to this Sect.
The Vaighnavas, as their name implies, worship Vishnu, reject
all animal food, even fish, and wear only white garments. One-
half of the Hindus in Bengal belong to this Sect, and almost all in
Orissa. The distinguishing mark of the sect consist of two lines,
rather oval, drawn the whole length of the nose, and carried for-
ward in two straight lines across the forehead. This mark is com-
mon to the worshippers of all the different forms of Vishnu. It is
generally made with the clay of the Ganges ; sometimes with powder
of sandal wood. The religious ascetics called Gas’étns and Bairdgis
belong to this Sect.
The followers of Chaitanya, a branch of the Vaighaavas, worship
Krishna, the 8th incarnation of Vishnu, and the Bhriyavad is their
favorite book. The wandering mendicants called Sakht-bhdvas, who
dress as women, belong to the school of Chaitanya.
The Shdlctas are worshippers of the female principle, that is, of
the divine energy in its feminine personification. Their principal
deity is Bkagavati or Durgd, the wife of Shiva. In their outward


nmnfr sncrs. xcv
dress they resemble the Saivas, but they have distinctive marks on
their bodies. They do not embrace a life of mendicity, and indulge
much in spirituous liquors, which are said in their sacred books, the
Tantras, to be a proper offering to Bhagavati.
The Bauddkas were, in the fourth and third century 12.0., the
dominant sect in India ; but they are now to be found only in Pegu
and Ceylon. They consider matter as eternal, that there is always
some superior deity, who has attained to this elevation by his own
merit. Their idea of beatitude is called N1}r-vdzmah (from Skr. m'r,
out, mi, blow), extinction as of fire, emancipation from matter, and
perfect and perpetual calm. They revere Gautamah, another name
for Sakya Muni or Buddha. Their five commandments forbid the
destruction of animal life, theft, adultery, falsehood, and the use
of spirituous liquors. Their priests are forbidden to marry, must
live by mendicity, possess only three garments, a begging dish, a
girdle, a razor, a needle, and a straining cloth, to prevent swallow-
ing insects, and so destroy life, when they drink. The Bauddhas
have no caste distinctions among themselves.
The Jainaks closely resemble the Bauddhas in some points, but
they are divided into the four Hindi’: castes. They marry and burn
their dead, but do not make offerings to them in the Siwdddka.
The strict Jainahs are constrained to a life of mendicity. This sect
was founded by Rishabba-deva, of the family of Ikshwak; its name
is said to be derived from ji, to conquer. He who has overcome the
eight great crimes is a Jain. These crimes are eating at night;
slaying any animal; eating the fruit of trees that give milk, pump-
kins, young bambiis; tasting honey or flesh; taking the property
of others; taking by force a married woman; eating flowers, butter,
cheese; and worshipping the gods of other religions. Their sacred
book is the Kalpa-mitm, and their principal deity is Bdrskwanlith.
They are found principally or solely on the W. coast, in Malwah
and Gujarat, and are distinguished by wearing a cloth over the
mouth that they may not swallow insects, and holding a branch
in their hands to sweep insects out of their path lest they should
destroy life.
The Sikhs (literally, “ disciples,” from the Skr. Skishya) are the
followers of N anak, who was born in 1469 at Talwandi, or, accord-
ing to some, at Kanakach, near Lahur. His father, Kalu, was a
leader of the Khatri tribe. He taught one sole and timeless Deity,
the creator, the self-existent, the incomprehensible, and the ever-
lasting. He was succeeded by nine Great Teachers, of whom the
fifth, Arjun, compiled the A’dz'-Gnmth, or First Book, the Sacred
Code of the Sikhs; but the tenth Guru Govind was the most cele-
brated, and his name is the Sikh battle-cry. He also compiled a
sacred book which is called DasIzama-Pddshdk2-Grantiza, “Tenth-


XGYl MUEAMMADAN BECT8.
King’s-Book.” This and the other Gmnth are placed in the temples
and worshipped. They contain the histories of the Hindu incarna-
tions and accounts of the inferior heavens, but advise Sikhs to seek
absorption into the Supreme Deity rather than enjoyment in those
inferior abodes of bliss. They admit all castes as proselytes, and do
not acknowledge caste among themselves. When a Muslim becomes
a Sikh he is forbidden in the strongest manner to eat beef. The
Sikhs burn their dead.
Besides these sects there are the Sauma, who worship the sun,
and the Ganpatg/as, who worship Ganesh. They are not, however,
very numerous.
Caste.-—There are four principal castes among Hindus :--1,
Brahmans, or priests; 2, Kshatriyas, or warriors ; 3, Vaishyas, mer-
chants or agriculturists; 4, Shudras, or servile tribe. Among these,
again, are infinite sub-divisions.
Mnnsmnsnnn Sncrs.
The two principal Muhammadan Sects are the Sunnis and the
Shi’ahs.
The Sunnis consider the Sunnat, or traditions of Muhammad, as
a supplement to the Kur’an, and of nearly equal authority. They
revere equally the four successors of Muhammad, viz.: Abu Bakr,
'Umr, ’U§man, and ’Ali. The Arabs, Turks, Afghans, and Rohillae
are Sunnis.
The Shi’ahs reject the Sunnat, and do not acknowledge Abu
Bakr, ’Umr, or ’Usman as Qalifahs. The Persians, the Kings of
A'wadh, and a great portion of the Muhammadan population in
India are Shi’ahs ; as are also the Kizzilbashis of Kabul. They are
called by the Sunnis Rdfizi, or heretics. Few Shi’ahs perform the
pilgrimage to Makkah, because they are then obliged to praise the
three Khalifahs whom they regard as usurpers; and none go to
Madinah, because there are buried Abu Bakr and ’Umr. Instead,
they go to Karbala-a, where is the tomb of Husain.
Besides these, there are four sects, called from four celebrated
doctors of Islam. These are :—Hanafi, or followers ofAb1'1 Hani-
fab, surnamed Al-l\"uman. This theologian was born at Kufah in
the year 80 AJL He was imprisoned by the lfiralifah A1-Mansur
for refusing to subscribe to the doctrine of absolute predestination,
and died in confinement 180 A.H. In the year 1092 A.D., Malik
Shah Seljuki erected a superb Mausoleum to him at Baghdad. He
adhered very closely to the Kur’an and the traditiongwherefore
his rejection of predestination appears the more surprising. He
held that sins did not destroy faith, or that the faithful might fall
into sin.


DBESS AND MANNEBS OF THE NATIVES. XOVI1
»S'hdfi'i, called from Abii ’Abdu’llah Muhammad bin Idris, sur-
named Shzifli, from one of his ancestors, descended from the grand-
father of Muhammad. This doctor of Islam was born at Gaza, 1D.
Palestine, in 150 AJI. He died in Egypt 204 A.H. He was the
first Muhammadan who wrote of jurisprudence. In India, his
disciples reside principally at N zigur, near N zigapatnam.
rlldliki, followers of Malik Ibn Ans, who was born at Madinah,
and died in 179 .1.n.
Hanhali, followers of Ahmad Ibn Hanbal, surnamed Al-Shibanf
Al-Meruzi, born at Baghdad in 164 A.H. He died 241 A.I{. He
was imprisoned and punished by the Ifiialifah Mutassim for refus-
ing to say that the Kur’an was not created.
Other sects, such as the _(_1"_haz'r Mahdi, or deniers of Mahdi’, being
]?athans,wvho aflirm that the 12th Imam Mahdi is come and gone,
while the orthodox Muslims hold he is yet to come, need not be
mentioned here, but some notice of them will be found in the
Preliininary Information to the Routes.
Pinsi Snors.
Shdhanshdhis or Rasmis are those who retain the computation
of time and liturgical forms used since the arrival of their tribe in
India.
lfadimis assent to the change in computation and other matters
introduced by Jamasp, a learned priest, who came to India from
Persia about 150 years ago. He found a difference of a month be-
tween the year of the Parsis in India and that of the same tribe in
Persia. The question was Warmly canvassed, and the Parsis at
Bombay presented a considerable sum to Lieutenant W. Eastwick for
translating some parts of Hyde, De Reliyion Persarum, which referred
to the question.
Dnsss sun Mnmnns or run Nxrrvns.
In the Autobiography of Lutfullah, at pp. 41, 124, will be found
the opinions of a native of India regarding both native and European
dress. It will be seen there that the natives, while they like and
approve their own costume, consider ours as absurd, inconvenient,
and indecorous. The common dress of a male Hindu is the dhoti, a
long cotton cloth passed round the waist and between the legs and
fastened at the back; and for the upper part of the body the
angarklui, a sort of shirt, over which the jdmah, or long gown, is
worn, the body part being tied in two places on each side. It is to
he particularly remarked that the Ifindhs fasten their ja'mahs on the
left, the illuhammadane on the right. Bréhmans wear small white tur-
bans; Rzijputs, turbans of the same color, but much larger. Reli-


XCVil.l DRESS AND MANNEES OF THE NATIVES.
gious personages and ascetics wear little or no clothing. The do-
paflah, a long scarf of two brcadths, joined down the middle by a
seam, is also a common Hindu vestment. Hindu females wear a
oholt, or bodice, generally blue or red ; and a sriri, a very long piece
of cotton cloth, which is passed round the waist, under the legs, and
over the shoulder or head.
Mukammadans wear the turban, which is of many different sizes
and shapes, according to the tribe. In the folding andwearing
thisarticle especially consists the style of those who are thought to
be tasteful in dress. The angarkha and jdmah are both worn by
Muslims as by Hindus, but are buttoned on the right side. The
[camel/rband, or girdle, is a most useful article, and very conducive
to health. The lungi, a colored cloth girdle, must, according to
Muslim rule, be simply wrapped round the body and not passed
under the thighs, as is done by Hindus. Pa'i;jdmah are loose
trowsers; shalwdr, long drawers; gurgi, short drawers. Females
wear the ckolt, or bodice, which has tight sleeves reaching half-way
down between the shoulder and elbow, never farther, as it would
resemble too much that of the Hindus, which reaches entirely down
to the elbows. The shalwdr, or trowsers, are tighter than those of
the men. The sari is also worn, but falls down over the legs to the
ankle like a petticoat. The orjlmt is a wide muslin scarf thrown
over the left shoulder, and, passing under the right arm, is crossed
under the middle, and hangs down to the feet, or is spread over
the head for a veil. The chaclwr is a sheet thrown over the head,
which covers the whole body, and reaches to the ground. Women
wrap themselves in it when going into the streets, and conceal their
faces with it. The pishwds is a double-breasted gown of colored
muslin.
The Pdrsés may be distinguished by their very peculiar turban,
which looks like a pasteboard mitre covered with chintz.
.l[¢mners.—-The nativesof India attach more weight to form and
ceremony than Europeans. It is obviously unnecessary to enter at
length into their codes of etiquette, and it will be suificient to men-
tion a few things on which they lay great stress. It is considered
highly disrespectful to use the left hand in salutation or in eating,
or, in fact, on any other occasion when it can be avoided. Hindus
sometimes prostrate themselves with the arms stretched out and the
hands joined; Muslims never. To remove the turban is disrespect-
ful; and, still more so, not to put off the shoes on entering a
strange house. Natives, when they make calls, never rise to go
until they are dismissed, which, among themselves, is done by giving
betel, and sprinkling ’I_t_r, “ rose-essence;” and with Hindus, by
hanging wreaths of flowers round the visitor’s neck, at least on


INDIAN snnvsrvrs. xeix
great occasions. Discourteous Englishmen are apt to cut short a
long visit by saying Alwjdo, “ Now go ! ” than which nothing can
be more offensive. The best way is to say “ Come and see me again
soon ;” or, “Always make a practice of visiting my house,” which
will be speedily understood. Or to one much inferior, one may say,
Ruflagat lend, “Leave to go;” or better, Ruflgat lijtye, “Please
to take leave.” A letter closed by moistening the wafer or the
gum with the saliva of the mouth should not be given to a
native. The feet must not be put on a chair occupied by them,
nor must the feet be raised so as to present the soles to them. One
must avoid touching them as much as possible, especially their
beards, which is a gross insult. If it can be avoided it is better
not to give a native three of anything. Inquiries are never made
after the female relations of a man. If they are mentioned at all it
must be as “house.” “ Is your house well?” 1.'.e., “Is your wife
well?” There are innumerable observances to avoid the evil eye;
and many expressions, seemingly contradictory, are adopted for this
purpose. Thus, instead of our “Take away,” it is proper to say,
“ Set on more;” and for “ I heard you were sick,” “ I heard your
enemies were sick.” With Muhammadans of rank it is better not to
express admiration of anything they possess, as they will certainly
offer it. In ease of acceptance they would expect something of
more value in return. To approach a Hindu of high caste while at
his meal is to deprive him of his dinner; to drink out of his cup
may deprive him of his caste, or seriously compromise him with his
caste-fellows. Leather is an abomination to Hindus; as is every-
thing made from the pig, as a riding saddle, to the Muslim. When
natives of difl'erent' ranks are present you must be careful not to
allow those to sit whose rank does not entitle them, and to give to
each his proper place. Hindus, in general, will not kill insects;
and a Réjé. will remove a bug from his turban and place it on your
carpet with all care. To kill monkeys or peacocks may create a
dangerous disturbance, as an order to put dogs to death produced a
serious émeute among the Pzirsis in Bombay. Natives, in general,
will not kill wolves; to kill a cow is, with Hindus, a crime of the
first magnitude.
INDIAN SERVANTS.
The Native servants are often bad, because they are badly treated.
Pay them well, and treat them well, and, in general, they will be
found more faithful and attached than English domestics. For a
traveller, four'servants will be sufficient, if he means to travel leisurely
and keep his horse-—.@dmamdn, or butler; a Bawarohi, or cook; a
Dhobi, or washerman; and a Sdis, or groom. If he prefers travelling
by Dd/: he may dispense with servants in regular employ, and hire


c
WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.
them only at those places where he makes a lengthened halt.
ordinary establishment of a European gentleman resident in India
is as follows:–
- RUPEEs.
Münshi, linguistic teacher or amanuensis .................. 15 to 30
Khánsamán, or butler ..... - - - - - - - - - - - - ... 12, 24
Under-butler.................. •- ,, 12
Khidmatgār, body servant . ... 10 , 12
Iławarchi, or cook.................... 10, 20
Sardar, or chief bearer of Palki .......... 10, 0 -
Three Hammals or Palki bearers, each . 6, 8
Darban, porter or doorkeeper ............. 8, 0
Dhobi, washerman............... 8, 12
IDirzi, tailor ........... 12, 16
Gáriwan, coachman ............... 10, 12
Saís, groom (two or three), each... 6, 8
Bihishti, watercarrier ............ 5 , 0
Mali, gardener .......... 8, 0
Chaprasi, messenger.. 7, 9
Diriyd, dog-keeper ....... ... 5, 7
4 yah, nurse, lady's maid ....................................... 10 , 16
Mihtar, sweeper ..... * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * - - - - - - - - - - ... 4 »,
WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.
TIME.
Indian AEras.—The Kali-Yug, the present or fourth age of the Hindús,
commenced in March................................ • -
The Samvat, or AEra of Vikram, Prince of Ujjain ......
Sdka, or AEra of Shálivāhan, a Prince of the Dakhan......
Muhammadan AEra or Hijrah (Hegira) 15th of July ...
Pārsi or Persian AEra of Yezdijird III., 16th of June......
Division of the Day by Native Reckoning.
60 Til = 1 Bipal, and 150 Til = 1 second.
60 Bipal = 1 Pal, and 2% Pal = 1 minute.
60 Pal = 1 Ghari = 24 minutes.
60 Ghari = 8 Pahar and 1 Din or Day of 24 hours.
MoNEY-THE CoMPANY’s RUPEE.
3 Pie = 1 Paisd (Pice).
4 Paisa (Pice) = 1 And.
16 And (Annas) = 1 Rupiyah = 2 shillings.
BENGAL WEIGHTs.
The
3102
57
A.D.
78
622
630
In 1833 the Bengal Government (by Reg. VII. of that year)
effected a great reform in the ponderal system of the Company’s
principal territory, by establishing the Told or Sikkah (Sicca)
weight (identical with the weight of the Company's Rupiyah
(Roopee) as the Unit by which the principal legal commercial
weights and the weights of the Calcutta and Ságar (Saugor) Mints


BENGAL WEIGHTS. - ci
should be regulated. . The weights were consequently revised
according to the following table:—
British Indian Weights. Bengal Commercial Weights. English Troy Weight.
lbs. oz. dwt. grs.
4 Dhan (Dhan) = 1 Ratti (Rut,tee) : 1.875
8 Ratti (Rut,tee) = 1 Mashah (Ma,sha) : ... 15
12 Mashah (Ma,sha) = 1 Told (Tola :- 7 12
5 Told (To,la) = 1 Chhatáñk (Chhut,ank)= 1 17 12
4 Chhatanik (Chhut,ank)= 1 Páo (Pao) = ... 7 10
4 Pao (Pao) = 1 Ser (Ser) = 2 6 ...
5 Ser (Ser) = 1 Paseri (Puser,ee) = 12 6
8 Paseri (Puser,ee) or ) -
40 Ser (ser)." } = Man (Mun or Maund) = 100 ...
In Bengal and the Upper Provinces all goods, whether dry or
liquid, are sold by weight. There are certain articles which are
usually sold by measures, but these are all referable to the weights
named in the above table, each article, as lime, milk, grain, etc.,
having its own peculiar measure regulated by the weight from
which it derives its name, from the Man (Mun) down to the
Chhatánk (Chhut,ank).
The Man (or that weight to which it closely accords in value,
and to which it is legally equivalent in the new scale), has been
hitherto better known among Europeans by the name of Bázár
Maund; but, upon its general adoption (under Reg. VII. of 1833)
for all transactions of the British Government, it should be deno-
minated the British Man (Angrez; Man) to distinguish it at once
from all other weights in use throughout the country.
The Pasert is, as its name denotes, a five Ser weight, and there-
fore (with the Páo) should not form an integrant point of the scale;
but as its use is very general, it has been introduced for the con-
venience of reference.
The Ser being the commonest weight in use in the retail busi-
ness of the Bázárs in India, and being liable, according to the per-
nicious system hitherto prevalent, to vary in weight for every article
sold, as well as for every market, is generally referred to the com-
mon unit, in native mercantile dealings, as the ser of so many tolás
(or sikkahs, etc.), the standard or Bázár Ser being always 80 tolás.
The Chhatáñk is the lowest denomination of the gross weights,
and is commonly divided into halves and quarters (called in Bengali
kachcha ; thus marking the line between the two series, which are
otherwise connected by the relation of the ser, etc., to the told.
The Told is chiefly used in the weighing of the precious metals
and coins; all bullion at the Mints is received in this denomination,
and the tables of bullion produce are calculated per 100 tolds. It
is also usual at the Mints to make the subdivisions of the told into
ands (sixteenths) and pie in lieu of mashahs and rattis.


cii PENGAL WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.
The Mäshah, Ratti, and Dhan are chiefly used by native gold-
smiths and jewellers. They are also employed in the native valua-
tion by assay of the precious metals: thus 10 mashahs fine signifies
10-12ths pure, and corresponds to the “10 oz. touch” of the Eng-
lish assay report on silver. There is a closer accordance with the
English gold assay scale, inasmuch as the 96 rattis in a told exactly
represent the 96 carat grains in the gold assay pound, and the dhān
the quarter grain.
The accordance of the man weight (of 40 sers) with the 100 lbs.
troy of England affords a ready means of ascertaining its relative
value in the standards of other countries employed in weighing the
precious metals, since tables of the latter are generally expressed in
lbs. troy.
The same degree of correspondence cannot be expected between
the Indian weights and the avoirdupois system of England; but, as
the latter are employed in all the transactions of commerce except-
ing those of bullion and some other trifling articles, rules for their
conversion may prove useful.
Since 35 sers are exactly equal to 72 lbs. avoirdupois, the follow-
ing simple and accurate rules will effect their mutual conversion:—
RULE I.—To convert Indian into £ weight.
1. Multiply the weight in sers by 72 and divide by 35: the result will be the
weight in lbs. avoirdupois.
2. Or, multiply the weight in mans by 36 and divide by 49: the result will
be the weight in cwt. avoirdupois.
RULE II.—To convert avoirdupois into Indian weight.
1. Multiply the weight in lbs. avoirdupois by 35 and divide by 72: the result
will be the weight in sers.
2. Or, multiply the weight in cwts. by 49 and divide by 46: the result will be
the weight in mans.
One ton = 27.222 mans, or 27# man nearly.
One man = 82 lbs. avoirdupois exactly. -
The readiest practical method of reducing the Indian into the
English system, where the utmost accuracy is not required, is derived
from the equation—300 mans = 11 tons. Hence the following
rules in addition to the foregoing :-
1. Add a tenth to a sum of mans, and divide by 30: result, the weight in tons.
2. Multiply a sum in tons by 30, and deduct an eleventh from the product:
result, its value in mans.
3. Deduct one-third from a weight in mans, and increase the remainder by
one-tenth: result, the weight in cwts, nearly.
4. Add one-half to a given weight in cwts, and diminish the sum by one-
eleventh: result, the equivalent in mans nearly.
Grain Measure.
5 Chhatdrik = 1 Kunki (Koon, kee) = 1 Pdo 1 Chhatañk.
e?".
4 Kunki = 1 Rek = 1 S
4 Rek = Payali = 5 Ser.
20 Payali = 1 Sodli = 24 Man.
16 Sodli = 1 Kahun = 40 Man.


MADRAS WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. C111
Cloth Measure.
3 Jau (lit. barleycorns) = 1 Ungal (Oongul) = 0# inches.
3 Ungal (lit. fingers) = 1 Girih (lit. joint) = 2} ,
8 Girih = 1 Hath (lit. cubit) = 18. ,
2 Haith = 1 Gaz = 36 ,
Long Measure.
3 Jaw = 1 Ungal = 0# inches.
4 Ungal = Müthi (lit. fist) = 3 ,
3 Muthi = 1 Bilisht (span) = 9, ,
2 Bilisht = 1 Hath = 18 ,,
4 Haith = 1 Baim = 2 yards.
1000 Bám = 1 Kos * = 1 mile and 240 yards.
Land Measure.
45 sq. feet.
1 Kattha (Cotta) = 80 sq. yards.
1 Bighd (Beegah) = 1600 ,
1 English acre.
1 Chhatdrik
16 Chhatanik
20 Katthd
30+ Bigha
:
MADRAs WEIGHTS AND MEASUREs.
The weights and measures given in the two following tables
were directed by proclamation, dated Fort St. George, October 16th,
1846, to be used exclusively in the Public Departments throughout
the Madras Presidency, and all the Public Accounts are now kept
therein. Money, same as Bengal. Accounts were formerly kept
in Star Pagodas, Fanams and Cash, thus:-80 Kásulu (cash)
= 1 Fanam; 42, 44 to 45 Fanams = 1 Star Pagoda.
Madras Weights. Avoirdupois. Troy.
lbs. oz. drS. lbs. oz. dwts.
1 Told............... •- - - - - * - - - - - - 0 0 6.582? 0 0 7
3 Told = 1 Palam (Pollam)..... ... 0 1 3.748: 0 1 23
40 Palam (Pollams) = 1 Wis ......... 3 1 5.942% 3 9 0
8 Vis = 1 Man (Maund)............ ... 24 10 15,542: 30 0 0
Dry Measure. Cylindric.
Depth and diameter inside in
inches and tenths.
1 Olak (Ollock).... . 2.5154
# ditto .......... ... 1.9965
3 ditto ..... • - - - - - - - - - - - • - - - - - - ... 1.5846
8 Olak (Ollocks) = 1 measure..... ... 5.0308
4 ditto = 3 ditto ..... .......... 3.9930
2 ditto = # ditto..... ... 3.1692
8 measures = 1 Markdl.. ... 10.0616
4 ditto = } ditto ..... 7.9859
2 ditto = } ditto .... . 6.3384
5 Markdl = 1 Phard (Parrah ..... 17.2050
The Garisha (Garce) of rice or corn = 320 lbs.
Land Measure.—1 Ground or Mani = 2,400 square feet.
24 Grounds = 1 Kani £ = 57,600 square feet.
- The Kani is to the English acre as 1 to 1.3223.
Cloth Measure.—The Kovid = 18 inches, but the English yard of 36 inches
is generally used.
* The Kos varies in different parts of India from one mile to three.


civ EUROPEAN SERVICES.
BoMBAY WEIGHTS AND MEASUREs,
In common use in the Bazir, by which all heavy goods, except grain and rice,
are weighed.
lbs. oz. drs.
30 Paisd (Pice) or 72 Tārik (Tanks) make 1 Ser (Seer) = # # #
40 Ser (Seers) 1 Man (Maund) = 28 0 0
20 Man (Maunds) l Khandi (Candy) = 500 0 0
Grain Measures.
2 Tipari (Tipprees) make 1 Ser (Seer)* = 0 11 3.2
4 Ser (Seers) 1 Payali (Paily) or Adhali (Adowley, or
Adol = 2 12 12.8
16 Payali (Pailies) 1 Phard (Pharah) = 44 12 12.8
8 Phard (Pharahs) 1 Khandi (Candy) = 358 6 6.4
Weights for Drugs, Precious Metals, &c.
1 Chdwal (lit. grain of husked rice) (Chawl) or 4 Dhan (Dhans) = 1 Ratti
(Rut,tee) or Guní (Goonj, seed of the Abrus Precatorius) = 2 gr. Troy.
2 Guní (Goonj) = 1 Val (Wal) 4 gr.
8 Gunj 4 Val = 1 Mashah (Masha) 16 gr.
96 Gunj =48 Val = 12 Mashah = 1 (Tola) 9.12 gr.
EUROPEAN SERVICES.
Of the European Services, the Civil and the Medical are both
thrown open to competition. Chaplains, Cadets, and Midshipmen
for the Indian Navy are still appointed by the Directors.
Civil Service. — Haileybury College, at which all but a few
Civilians for the 50 years previous to 1856 were educated, was
closed on the 31st of January, 1858. The first Student who was
educated at that College was Robert Mertins Bird, who entered
January the 22nd, 1806; and during the half century the College
was in existence 2055 Students passed through it. In July, 1855,
the first competitive examination took place according to the sub-
joined rules. Mr. Wells Butler was the first civilian appointed on
the new system:—
Civil Service.-Rules for the Competitive Examination.
1. Any natural-born subject of her Majesty, who shall be desirous of entering
the Civil Service of the East India Company, will be entitled to be examined at
such examination, provided he shall have transmitted to the Indian Board, Cannon
Row, Westminster,
(a) A certificate of his birth, showing that his age will be above 18 years
and under 23 years at the time of the examination.
(b) A certificate signed by a physician or surgeon, of his having no disease,
constitutional affection, or bodily infirmity, unfitting him for the
Civil Service of the East India Company.
(c) A certificate of good moral character, signed by the head of the school
or college at which he has last received his education; or, if he has
not received education at any school or college, then such proof of
good moral character as may be satisfactory to the Board of Com-
missioners for the affairs of India.
(d) A statement of those of the branches of knowledge hereinafter enume-
rated in which he desires to be examined.
* This is the common Bombay Ser (Seer) and is computed at 11 oz. 4 drs.


,~--~
EUROPEAN SERVICES. CV
2. The examination will take place only in the following branches of know-
ledge :-
English Language and Literature :—Composition......... .......... .. 500
English Literature and History, including Laws and Constitution 1,000




1,500
Language, Literature, and History of Greece...... ...... 750
,, ,, ,, Rome 750
,, ,, ,, France 375
‘ ,, ,, ,, Germany... 375
av n n Italy 375
Mathematics, pure and mixed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. .. 1,000
Natural Science, that is, Chemisty, Electric y, and agne rn,
Natural History, Geology, and ineralogy ...... ................ .. 500
Moral Sciences, that is, Logic, Mental, Moral, and Political
Philosophy ..................... .............. .......... .. 600
Sanskrit Language and Literature 375
Arabic Language and Literature ............... .. 375
6 875
3. The merit of the persons examined will be estimated by marks, according
to the ordinary s stem in use at several of the Universities, and the numbers set
opposite to each ranch in the preceding paragraph denote the greatest number of
marks that can be obtained in respect o rt.
4. No candidate will be allowed any marks in respect of any subject of ex-
amination, unless he shall obtain, in respect of that subject, one-sixth of the
number of marks set against that particular subject.
5. The examination will be conducted by means of printed questions and
written answers, and by vied voce examination.
6. After the examination shall have been completed, the marks obtained by
each candidate, in res ect of each of the subjects in which he shall have been
examined, will be adlded up, and the names of the candidates who shall have
obtained a greater aggregate number of marks than any of the remaining can-
didates will be set forth in order of merit; and those candidates will be ap-
pointed to the Indian Civil Service, provided they comply with the regulations
111 force at the time for the said Service.
7. All papers relating to the above-mentioned examination are to be sent, and
all inquiries are to be addressed, thus :—
“ Indian Civil Service , “ The Secretary, India Board,
“ Examination. “ Westminster."
1l[emo.—All persons appointed to the Civil Service will be required to attend
at the Secretary's Oflice, East India House, to make the necessary arrangements
for entering into covenant, and for giving a bond for £1000 jointly with to
sureties for the due fulfilment of the same.
Civil Furlough Regulations will be found at length in the Imlfa
Register, p. xxxvii. It will be sufficient here to mention that a
civilian may proceed to Europe on medical certificate for 15 months
at one time, or for 18 altogether, retaining a moiety of his pay,
provided that does not exceed £1,000 per annum. He may also
during his period of service, after having served seven years,
proceed to Europe on private affairs for one year; and, again, after
f


OVl 1 FUNDS AND PENSIONS.
a like period of service, take furlough for another year; and, again,
a third time after a like period. Or he may divide his three years’
furlough into two, and take one moiety after ten years’ service, and
the other moiety after another ten years. But, in all such cases,
he must vacate his office; and, on his return, take such appoint-
ment as may offer. An allowance, at the rate of £500 per annum,
will be made to him for three years, while on furlough, whether on
medical certificate, or on private affairs. Absence for one year, on
medical certificate, is reckoned in the period of 22 years, which any
Civilian must serve in India before he becomes entitled to the
retiring annuity of £1000 per annum.
Civil Retiring Annuity/.--The covenanted Civil servants, as long
as they remain in the service, pay at the rate of 4 per cent. towards
the Retiring Fund, from all their salary, except from travelling
allowances. This entitles them, in turn, to a retiring pension of
£1,000 per annum, after 22 years’ service, or 25 years, including
furloughs. If invalided before 10 years, they receive a donation of
£500; before 15 years, a pension of £250; before 22 years, a
pension of £500.
Civil Fund for lVi¢lows and 0rphans.—By subscriptions, to the
amount of £2,500, each Civilian may secure for his widow, subject
to various regulations, an annuity of £300; for each daughter, an
annuity varying from £30 to £100, with a donation of £300 on
marriage; and, for each son, an annuity from £30 to £100, up to
his 21st year.
Military Service.—The appointments for the Indian Army are
either direct, when the nominee must have attained the age of 16,
and be under 22 years-—or, if a commissioned officer in Her
Majesty’s Service, under 25 years; or, to the College at Addis-
combe, when the age must be between 15 and 18 years. For the
Examination Rules of direct cadets, and the Regulations of the
Military College, the India Register, p. xxvii., must be consulted.
Military Furlough Regulations.-—Every oflicer may proceed to
Europe or elsewhere on furlough, for two years, after ten years’
service ; and, again, for a like period, after a like period of service.
Stafi' appointments are not vacated for a period of six months’
absence. Leave, on sick certificate, is granted for 18 months, and
this may be renewed, if requisite.
FUNDS AND PENSIONS.
Retiring Allowances?-After 22 years’ service in India, an officer
may retire on the full pay of his rank. If compelled, by ill health,
to resign the service before this time, an o-fiicer receives from two
to six shillings a day, according to his period of service.
Jlilitnry Fwml for Widows and 0rpl2ans.—Subject to certain


FUNDS AND PENSIONS-
cvii
regulations, for which see the India Register, the following
annuities are attainable from the Madras Military Fund"" :—
Table shewing the Amount of Pensions to Widows during their Widowhood,
and to Children of each Class and Condition.
Description of the Annuitants, the Widows according to the








Pension payable
Classes. Regimental Rank of their Husbands, the Children accord- by the Military Fund
ing to their Age and the Parents they have lost. in England.
Widows. £ s. d.
1 Ofa Colonel ...... ......... ....... 235 18 9
2 Lieutenant-Colonel ............. ....... .. 208 16 0
3 Ma'or, Chaplain of 10 years’ standing, Major and Assist.
(lhaplain 15 years’ standing... ............ ........... .. 181 11 3
4 Captain, and Assistant-Chaplain under 15 years’ standing 136 17 6
5 Lieutenant.............................................. . . 102 3 9
6 Cornet, 2nd Lieutenant, and Ensign 81 16 0
Children having lost One Parent.
1 Under6yea.rs ofage ....... ....... 20 0 0
2 Between 6 and 12 years of age.. 30 0 0
Above 12 until 21 for boys, and for girls for whom the
donation may not have been paid........ .......... 40 0 0
Children having lost both Parents.
1 Under 6 years of age .................. .... 30 0 0
2 Between 6 and 12 years of age ............ 45 O 0
3 Above 12 until 21 for boys, and for girls for whom the
donation may not have been paid ................ 60 0 0
At Bombay, the following are the annuities :—
Table shewing the Amount of Pension to Widows during their Widowhood.
\Vidow ofa Colonel .................. .... ...................... 205 0 0
Lieut.-Colonel, Member of Medical Board, or Archdeacon 175 0 0
Ma'or, Superintending Surgeon, and Chaplain, above 10, or
Assistant-Chaplain above 15, years’ standing ........... .... .. 145 0 0
Captain, Surgeon, Chaplain under 10 years’, Assistant-Chaplain
under 15 years’, or Veterinary Surgeon after 20 years’ service 120 0 0
Lieutenant, Assistant-Surgeon, or Veterinary Surgeon, after
10 years’ service ....................... ....................... 102 3 9
Second Lieutenant, Cornet, Ensign, or Veterinary Surgeon,
under 10 years’ service ...................................... 81 15 0
Table shewing the Amount of Annuities payable to Children for whom
donations have been paid. £ s. d.
Children, without distinction of rank, if bereft of both parents,
under 7 years old ......................... .... ...... 30 0 0
From 7 to 10 years 0ld.... .. 45 0 0
From 10 to 18 years old ....... ....... .. 60 0 0
If bereft of their father only, under 7 years old.. . 22 10 0
From 7 to 10 years old . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . 30 0 0
From 10 to 18 years old . ......... ........... ...... 37 10 0


The subj oined statements and Pay Tables have been drawn up more
particularly with relation to the Madras Army, now the chief Native
Army of India, but apply generally to the Army of Bombay also.
A Regiment of Cavalry consists of 6 troops, with 1 serjeant major, 1 quarter-
lliilitary Fund was in an embarrassed state before the revolt. During the revolt
‘ The Ben
so many 0 cars died, or were killed, that the Fund, without aid from Government, would be
insolvent.


cviii rmvns AND PENSIONS.
master serjeant, 1 assistant apothecary, 1 second dresser, 6 sfibahdars, 6 jam'adars,
1 havaldar major, 30 hevéldars, 24 naiks, 1 trumpet major, 6trum eters, 1 farrier
major, 12 farners, 2 veterina pupils, 300 troo ers, 40 recruit an pension boys,
1 second tandel, 8 re§'men askars, 1 chau hart (purveyor or clerk), 2 peons,
6 pakhdlis (water-carriers), 6 artificers, and 2 totia (scavengers).
The Horse Brigade Artillery consists of 4 European and 2 native troops, with
1 ridin master, 1 serj eant major, 1 quartermaster serjeant, 1 schoolmaster serjeant,
1 order yroom clerk, 1 trumpet major, 1 farrier major, 1 hospital writer, 1 chaudhari,
2 peons.—Each European troop consists of 1 troop quarterm-aster, 1 troop serjeant
major, 1 troop quartermester serjeant, 6 sergeants, 6 corporals, 12 bombardiers, 2
trumpeters, 3 farriers, 84 gunners, 1 assistant apothe , 1 second dresser, 4
pakhdlis, 12 artificers.—Each Native Troop consists of 1 so ahdar, 2 jam’adé.rs, 1
troop quartermaster, 1 troop serjeant major, 1 troop quartermaster serjeant, 3
serjeants, 1 assistant apothecary, 1 troop havaldar major, I drill havaldar, 1 drill
nfuk, 6 havaldars, 6 naiks, 2 trumpeters, 3 farriers, 1 veterinary pupil, 84 troopers,
3 pakhdlia, 5 recruit boys, 3 pension boys, 2 regimental Laskars, 12 artificers,
1 to_tz'. A Battalion of Artillery consists of 4 Companies, with 1 serjeant major, 1
quartermaster serjeant, 1 schoolmaster serjeant, 1 drill serjeant, 1 orderly room
clerk, 1 second apothecary, 1 assistant apothecary, 1 second dresser, 1 hospital
writer, 1 drill corporal, 1 bugle major, 16 Laskar boys, 1 chaudhari, 2 peons, 2
to_tis.—Each Com an consists of 1 brigade staff sergeant, 6 serjeants, 6 corporals,
6 bombardiers, 2 ug ers, 2 half-pay buglers, 60 gunners, 2pakha'l1's, 12 artificers,
Two Companies of Gun Laskars are attached to each Bat. of Eur. Art.-—Ewch
Companyconsists of 1 subahdar, 1 jam’adar,4 havtldars, 60 gun Laskars, 1 pakhdli.
The Golandéz Battalion of Artillery consists of 6 subahdars, 12 jam'adars,
1 serjeant major, 1 quartermaster serjeant, 1 assistant apothecary, 1 second dresser,
1 havaldar major, 1 drill havaldar, 48 havaldtrs, 2 bugle majors, 12 bu lers,
1 drill naik, 48 naiks, 652 privates, 6 pa/chdlis, 30 recruit boys, 40 pension Iioys,
16 Laskar boys, 1 second tandel, 8 regimental Laskars, 72 artificers, 2 to_t1's.
Two Companies of Gun Laskars are attached to the Battalion.—Each Com-
pany consists of 1 sfibahdar, 1 jam’adar, 6 havaldars, 60 gun Laskars, 1 pakhdli.
The Sappers and Miners consist of 9 Companies, with 1 serjeant major, 1
quartermaster serjeant, 18 serjeants, 18 first corporals, 18 second corporals, 1
assistants othecary, 1 second dresser, 9 subahdars, 9 jam’adé.rs, 1 havaldar major,
38 haval ars, 76 naiks, 18 buglers, 1,039 privates, 24 recruit boys, 24 pension
boys, 1 chaudhari, 2 peons, 9 re imental Laskars, 9 pakhdlia, 41 artificers, 2 to_tis.
A Regiment of European I antry consists of 10 Companies, with 1 se 'eant
ma'or, 1 quartermaster serjeant, 4 staff serjeants, 50 sprjeants, 50 corporals, 1 um
or ugle major, 20 drummers or buglers, 20 half-pay drummers or buglers, 800
privates, I second apothecary, 1 assistant apothecary, 1 second dresser, 1 hospital
writer, 20 paklzdlis, 3 artificers, 1 chaudhari, 2 peons.
A Regiment of Native Infantry consists of 10 Companies, with 1 serjeant
major, 1 quartermaster serjeant, 1 assistant apothecary, 1 second dresser, 10
sfibahdars, 10 jam'adsrs, 1 havsldar major, 50 havaldars, 50 naiks, 20 drummers
and fifers or buglers, 700 privates)‘ 30 recruit boys, 40 pension boys, 1 second
tandcl, 12regimental Laskurs, 1 chaudhari, 2 eons,4 artificers, 10 pakkdlis, 2 totie.
The 20th Regiment N. I. has an additions jam’adérto carry anhonorary color.
A Native Veteran Battalion consists of 1 serjeant ma'or, 1 quartermaster
serjeant, 1 assistant apothecary, 1 second dresser, 20 sfibah ars, 20 jam’adars, 2
drum majors, 2 havaldér majors, 80 havaldais, 80 naiks, 30 drummers, 1000
privates, 30 recruit boys, 40 pension boys, 10 pakhdlis, 2 to_tz's.
The Artillery Veteran Company consists of 6 serjcants, 6 corporals, 2 buglers,
10 bombardiers, 100 gunners, 2pakha'l1'.9.
The Infantry Veteran Company consists of 6 serjeants, 6 corporals, 2 drum-
mers, 100 privates, 2 pakhdlia, 1 assistant apothecary, 1 to_h’.
' .»
 augmentation takes place during war, as now, owing to the Revolt of the Bengal Army.


PAY AND ALLOWANCES. cix
TABLE A.—Pay and Allowances of the European Commissioned Officers of
H. M's. and H. M. I. Services at the three Presidencies, in cantonment and
in the field; pay of Paymasters and Quartermasters in H. M's. Service, and
of Adjutants and Quartermasters in H. M. I. Service being shown separately.
In Garrison or Cantonment within 200 ": % direct distance from the seat of Government at
ort St. George.
d 3: d ##
1. H| | | | | | #
CoRPS AND RANK. # # ## # #####
# =#| + || 5 || ##
| - -
Horse Artillery and Cavalry. R. A. P. R. R. A. P. R. R. A. #
Colonel..... - 1158 7 0 |..., |120 0 0 |200 1478 7 0
Lieut.-Colonel. .... 582 10 0 100 120 0 0 150 952 10 0 |
| Major -................ ... 461 1 10 80 120 0 0 120 781 1 10
|Captain or Surgeon............ 306 11 4 50 90 0 0 || 75 521 11 4
1st Lieut. or Assistant-Surgeon 194 6 0 || 30 60 0 0 || 50 334 6 0.
2nd Lieut. or Cornet ......... 154 1510 |25 | 60 0 0 || 50 289 1510 |
# (Under 3 years service... 182 4 5 30 47 13 3 50 #10 1 $
# Above ditto ............... | 206 10 0 || 30 47 13 3 50 334 7 3
a < Ditto 10 ditto ... .... 230 15 6 30 47 13 3 || 50 358 12 9
| # | Ditto 20 ditto............ 267 8 0 || 30 47 13 3 50 395 5 3
|% Ditto 25 ditto ........ .... 297 14 11 || 30 47 13 3 || 50 || 425 12 2
| Artillery, Engineers, Euro- |
pean, or Native Infantry. |
|Colonel........................... 1065 5 0 | ... 30 0 0 |200||1295 5 0
| Lieut.-Colonel. ... 547 14 0 100 30 0 0 150 827 14 0
Major ........... .... 410 14 6 80 30 0 0 120 640 14 6
Artillery or Engineers.
Captain or Surgeon............ 267 5 0 || 50 ... ... 75 392 5 0
Lieut. or Assistant-Surgeon. 154 14 0 || 30 ... ... 50 234 14 0
Second Lieutenant ............ 117 10 6 25 ... ... 50 192 10 6
European Native Infantry. -
Captain or Surgeon............ 249 1 0 || 50 ... ... 75 374 1 0
Lieut. or Assistant-Surgeon. 145 12 0 || 30 ... ... 50 225 12.0
Ensign......................... ... 107 1 11 25 ... ... 50 182 1 11
Her Majesty's Cavalry,
: [First appointment....... 279 8 0 || 50 90 0 0 || 75 494 8 0
# After 5 years service .. 309 15 0 || 50 90 0 0 |75|| 524 15 0
# Ditto 15 ditto ........... . 340 6 0 || 50 | 90 0 0 || 75 555 6 0
2. Ditto 20 ditto ... 370 13 0 || 50 90 0 0 || 75 585 13 0
* UDitto 25 ditto ............ 401 4 0 || 50 90 0 0 || 75 616 4 0
: # (First appointment ... 161 2 3 ||25 | 60 0 0 || 50 296 2 3
## |: 10 years' service 185 7 10 |25 | 60 0 0 || 50 320 7 10
c = [Ditto 15 ditto......... | 203 12 1 ||25 | 60 0 0 || 50 338 12 1
Her Majesty's Infantry.
#f First appointment ...... 279 8 0 || 50 ... ... 75 404 8 0
#| After 5 years service ... 309 15 0 || 50 ... ... 75 431 15 0
#4 Bitto ##" ............ #' ' ' || 5 | ... ... 15 465 : 0
£1 to 20 dino #1: . . . . . . . . . . . .
: I Ditto 25 ditto ......... ... 401 4 0 || 50 - - 75 526 4 0
- # (First appointment..... 164 0 3 30 ... ... 50 244 0 #
## |: 10 years service 188 5 9 || 30 ... ... 50 26S 5 9 |
|c à Ditto 15 ditto ......... 206 10 0 || 30 ... ... 50 286 10 0


OX PAY AND ALLOWANCES.
TABLE A. II.—Pny and Allowances of the above 0fi¢'m's in the Field and in
Garrison or Cantonment beyond 200 miles of direct distance from the seat of
Government at Fort St. George.







5 8' . Q §§
-u _ = ~.,
Cons AND Rum. 55% 5% fig 1% gag
$555 £5 £5 § £5535
Horse Artillery and
Uavalry. n. A. 1». 11. .1. 1>. 11. A. P. 11. 1:. A. 2.
Colonel ,,,,,,,,,, ,,,,,_,,1158 7 0 120 0 0 .200 1478 7 0
'Lieut.-Colonel. 10 0 304 6 0 120 0 0 150 1157 0 0
Major .......... 461 1 10 228 4 6 120 0 0 120 929 6 4
Captain or Surgeon... 306 11 4 91 5 0 90 0 0 75 563 0 4
Lieut. or Assistant-
Surgeon .......... .. 194 6 0 60 14 0 60 0 0 60 365 4 0
Cornet ................ .. 154 15 10 45 10 6 60 0 0 50 310 10 4
=3 Under 3 years’
§o service ...... .. 182 4 5 so 14 0 47 13 3 50 340 15 3
5 Above ditto 206 10 0 60 14 0 47 13 3 50 365 5 3
Q1 Ditto 10 ditto 230 15 6 60 14 0 47 13 3 50 389 10 9
E4 Ditto 20 ditto 267 8 0 60 14 0 47 13 3 50 426 3 3
> Ditto 25 ditto 297 14 11 60 14 0 47 13 3 50 456 10 2
Artillery, Engineers, ‘
European, or Native
Infantry.
Col0nel.... ..... .... .1065 5 0 30 0 0 200 1295 5 0
Lieut.-Colonel 547 14 0 304 6 0 30 0 0 150 1032 4 0
Major ......... .... .. 410 14 61228 4 6 30 0 0 120 789 3 0
Artillery or Engineers. '
Captain or Surgeon... 267 5 0 91 5 0 75 433 10 0
Lieut. or Assistant-
Sur con . ........ .. 154 14 0 60 14 0 ... 50 265 12 0
Secon Lieutenant 117 10 6 45 10 6 50 213 5 0
European and Native
Infantry.
Captain or Surgeon... 249 1 0 91 5 0 75 415 6 0
Lieut. or Assist.-Slug. 145 12 0 60 14 0 ... ... 50 256 10 0
Ensign ........... .. 107 1 11 45 10 6 .. 50 202 12 5
Her Jlfajestg/‘e Cavalry.
_ 1st appointment. 279 8 0 91 5 0 90 0 0 75 535 13 0
§ After 5 years’
Z; service ....... .. 309 15 0 91 5 0 90 0 0 75 566 4 0
E Ditto 15 ditto 340 6 0 91 5 0 90 0 0 75 596 11 0
5: Ditto 20 ditto 370 13 0 91 5 0 90 0 0 75 627 2 0
Ditto 25 ditto 401 4 0 91 5 0 90 0 0 75 657 9 0
_ First appoint-
§ 3 ment ....... .. 161 2 3 45 10 6 60 0 0 50 316 12 9
5% After 10 years’
55 service .... .. 185 7 10 45 10 6 60 0 0 50 341 2 4
Ditto 15 ditto.. 203 12 1 45 10 6 60 0 0 50 359 6 7


PAY AND ALLOWANCES. cxi
Pay and - || Total pay and
| " | # | #" | "... :#
|Her Majesty's Infantry. R. A. P. R. A. P. R. A. P. R. R. A. P.
- [' appointment. 279 8 0 | 91 5 0 ... 75 445 13 0
# After 5 years'
# service ......... 309 15 0 | 91 5 0 | ... ... 75 || 476 4 0
F \ Ditto 15 ditto ... 340 6 0 | 91 5 0 | ... ... 75 506 11 0
| 5 | Ditto 20 ditto ... 370 13 0 | 91 5 0 ... 75 537 2 0
* | Ditto 25 ditto ... 401 4 0 | 91 5 0 ... 75 567 9 0
t First appoint-
# # ment ........ . 164 0 3 | 60 14 0 ... 50 274 14 3
## After 10 years'
ă ă (,': 188 5 9 60 14 0 ... 50 299 3 9
Ditto 15 ditto... 206 10 0 | 60 14 0 ... 50 317 8 0
REMARKs.—The pay, half bhátá, and gratuity of the European officers, both of H. M.'s, and
H. M. I. Services, together with the non-effective allowance received by certain classes of the
former, are included in one sum under the denomination of Pay and Indian Allowance, leaving
#.#. House-rent, Tentage, and Horse Allowance to be drawn up separately according to
s e.
TABLE B.—Table of Pay Proper of European Commissioned Officers of H. M.'s
and H. M. I. Services, converted into Indian currency at 2s. 03d per rupee,
and admissible when not in receipt of Indian or Staff Allowance.
For any Month.
HER MAJESTY's TRooPs.—Cavalry. R. A. P.
Colonel................................................... • • • • • - - - • * * * * * * * *
Lieutenant-Colonel.. .... 342 14 2
Major ................. .... 286 15 9
Captain ... .... 217 6 7
Lieutenant 134 2 9
Cornet ........... •- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 119 4 3
Adjutant (being a Lieutenant or Cornet)...... 149 1 4
0 On first appointment ... 186 5 8
After 5 years' service .. 223 9 11
Paymaster*......... , 15 33 260 14 3
7, 20 35 • 298 2 7
,, 25 39 • • 335 6 11
On first appointment .......... ... 126 11 6
Quartermaster...... |: 10 years' service .... 158 8 7
,, . 15 35 e- 178 14 4
' first appointment ..... 193 12 11
After 10 years' service .. 223 9 11
Surgeon ..... - ,, 20 55 283 4 1
o: intment..... 327 15 8
- n Ointment..... 126 11 6
Assistant-Surgeon {# 10 # service ........................... 163 15 10
* * On first appointment .. 119 4 3
aft: After 3 years service 149 1 4
Veterinary Surg.f ,, . 10 95 178 14 4
* * , 7, 20 3 * 223 9 11
. , 25 35 - * * * * * * * * * * • • * * * * * * * * * * * ... 260 14 2
Infantry.
Colonel....... • • - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - • •- - - - - - - - - • • • • - - - - - - - - - - - - - - • • * * * * * - - - - - - - - - - • • •
Lieutenant-Colonel.............. • * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 253 7 0
• The Pay of Paymaster, Quarter-master, Surgeon, and Assistant-surgeon, is the same in the
fa -
In W#nary Surgeons in H. M. I. Horse Art, and Cavalry get the same pay as here shown.


cxii PAY AND ALLOWANCES.
Major ........ •- - - - -išeing a Brevet Field officer ........ ............. 238 8 :
• eing a Brevet Fie Cer .. ... 202 8
Captain • • • - - - - - - £ g ,' 55 - 172 11 0
- ove 7 years' service......... 111 13 0
Lieutenant ....... • • {# 7 y 35 •- 96 14 5
Ensign............. - - - - - - - - - • * * - - - - - • • • • 78 4 3
Adjutant (being a Lieutenant or Ensign)......... • * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 126 11 6
HER MAJESTY's INDIAN ARMY.—Horse Artillery and Cavalry.
Colonel ..................... 486 11 9 || Captain ..................... 219 10 8
Lieutenant-Colonel ...... 340 11 5 I Lieutenant.... .... 134 l
Major........................ 285 1 7 | Cornet ..... • - - - - - - - - - - ... 119 2 11
Foot Artillery, Engineers, European and Native Infantry.
Colonel .............. ....... 372 11 3 | Surgeon..................... 149 1 4
Lieutenant-Colonel ...... 298 2 7 | Assistant-Surgeon....... • 74 8 8
Major........................ 223 9 11
Root Artillery and Engineers. European and Native Infantry.
Captain ..................... 171 6 10 | Captain ..................... 149 1 4
First Lieutenant ......... 85 11 5 I Lieutenant... - 74 8 8
Second Lieutenant ..... • 73 7 6 | Ensign ........... 60 9 0
TABLE C. -STAFF PAY.
# # #| 3 | ". .
REGIMENTAL STAFF-HER MAJESTY'S INDIAN ARMY. # g# # g# #
## 5: #5 53
ă 5: #3 ##| £:
ADJUTANTS.
European Regiment, or European Foot Artillery,
or Sappers and Miners. *
Adjutant and Quartermaster, combined appoint- R. A. R. R. R. R. A.
ment ....... • • * * * * * * * * • * * * * * * * * * * * • * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * , 122 0 | 55 30 30 |237 0
Horse Artillery and Cavalry.
Adjutant ........... • • - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 92 7 55 30 30 207 7
IEngineers.
Adjutant (consolidated pay) ........... • • • • * * * * * * * * * 137 0
Golandáz, i.e., Native Artillery, or Native
Infantry.
Adjutant .......... • * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * • * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 92 7 | 40 || 30 30 1927
Detachments of not less than a wing of a Brigade
of Horse Artillery, or wing of a Battalion of
Foot Artillery, or wing of a Regiment of
Cavalry or Infantry.
Adjutant..................... combined on
Quartermaster . • consolidated ... | 181 5
Paymaster ..... • • * * * * * * * • • • • pay |
QUARTERMASTERS AND INTERPRETERS,
European Regiment.
Quartermaster and Interpreter ..................... 62 0 | 55 30 30 1770
Horse Artillery, Golanddz, Cavalry, or Infantry
Regiment.
Quartermaster and Interpreter .......... • * * * * * * * * * * 62 0 | 40 30 ... 132 0
* In the Sappers and Miners, the Adjutant draws Staff pay-212R. 7A.; Quartermaster and
Interpreter, 137R.


PAY AND ALLOWANCES.
cxiii
TABLE D.--GENERAL STAFF,
- When not '' public office, draws office rent, 17R. sa. per mensem.
Civil Buildings.
+ For careo
# 4 #| #.
APPOINTMENT # o # .# # #|## 3.
- 8: #3 Es: # =#| 5%
# ##| #* | ###|##| #
Commander-in-Chief
(if Member of Coun- || R. A. P. R. R. A. P. R. R. R. A. P.
cil) " .................. 6941 5 8 - ... [280 |722.1 5 8
Ditto (not Member
of ditto) c ..... .......|5316 8 2 ... - ... [5316 8 2
Ditto Provincial, e ...|1300 0 0 - ... [1300 0 0
Commander of the
Forces, e .......... ... 875 0 0 - ... 875 0 0
Commandant of Ar-
A: £i- ..[1250 0 0 || 30 ... ... . 1280 0 0
jutant-General" e 1867 00
£) 1940 0 0 | 60 # 4 8). “ . 2000 0 0
Deputy ditto, b ......... 539 5 4 || 60 ... ... . .. ... 599 5 4
Assistant, a ... . 263 0 10 | 60 - . 323 0 10
£ ... 175 0 0 | 60 - 235 0 0
Aide-de-Camp to
Governor or Com-
mander-in-Chief, a... 149 9 8 || 60 - 209 9 8
Ditto to General Offi-
cer on the Staff, a ... 149 9 30 ... ... 179 9
Assistant Adjutant-
General Artillery, a 263 0 10 60 (250 00) 323 0 10
Auditor-General (Mili-
tary) e. ............... 2916 10 8 ... (4667 00) ... ... 2916 10 8
Deputy ditto, b ......... 700 0 0 | ... . ... ... . ... . ... 700 0 0
Assistant ditto, b ...... 350 0 0 | ... - - - - ... 350 0 0
Second Assistant do., b|280 0 0 | ... . ... 280 0 0
*# Master in th
"ield, a ............... 350 0 0 350 0 0
Deputy ditto, a ......... 350 0 0 350 0 0
Barrack Master at
Madras, a ............ 456 2 10 35 |185+ 676 2 10
Brigade Major in the
ield, a ............. ... 124 0 0 | 60 - - - - 60 244 0 0
Ditto Bengalúr, or
H. M. troops, b...... 124 0 0 | 60 60 244 0 0
Brigadier, 1st class, a 1000 0 0 || 30 40 1070 0 0
** 2d ,, a 750 0 0 || 30 20 800 0 0
* 3d , d 500 0 0 || 30 - - - 20 ... [ 550 0 0
| Commissary-General, c. 2189 7 9 ... (7103 144) ... . 2189 7 9
Deputy ditto, a........ .1063. 10 11 - - - 1063. 10 11
Assistant ditto, a ...... 709 15 8 709 15 8
Deputy-Assistant do a 356 2 10 356 2 10
Sub-Assistant ditto, f | 181 2 10 181 2 10
Temporary Assistants
ditto, d .......... ..... 150 0 0 | ... . ... ... 150 0 0


PAY AND ALLOWANCES.

- :- # = -
APPOINTMENT, =# # ### #=# # :
# ##| ##" |###| ##| #
(Officers under rank
of Generals, com- R. A. P. R. R. A. P. R. A. R. R. A. P.
manding, e...... 2500 0 0 | ... . . . - . . ... 2500 0 0
Assist. - Adjutant-
- General, a ....., 263 0 10 | 60 205 528 0 10
# | Ditto Qr-master-
.2 General, a ...... 263 0 10 | 60 170 493 0 10
# Deputy-Assistant
s Adjut.-General, a 143 15 11 60 100 303 15 11
Ditto Qr.-master-
General, a ..... 143 15 11 || 60 117 8 ... 321 7 11
Brigade Major,
Malabar and
Kanara, a ...... 143 15 11 || 60 42 245 15 11
Fort Adjutant of Fort
St. George, b......... 280 0 0 || 30 - - - 310 0 0
Ditto of Cantonment, d. 70 0 0 || 30 35 135 0 0
General Officer on the
s: - 3333 5 4 .. . .3333 5 4
UD eputy - Inspector
3. £ £
2 pitals, h......... 2150 0 (214 00) .. . 2150 0 0
£4 Ditto Adjutant-
: General, c ...... 1454 7 9 (185 80) ... 1454 7 9
Ditto Qr.-master-
* U General, c.1454 7 9 (87 8 0) ... 1454 7 9
Joint Agent for pur- |
chase of Remount
Horses for Madras
and BombayArmies, a 709 15 8 k . . ... ... ... 709 15 8
Judge Advocate-Gen, b|1000 0 0 | 60 (327 00) ... . ... 1060 0 0
£ - 350 0 0 | ... . ... ... 52 8 ... 402 8 0
Ordnance Commissary, b|1000 0 0 . (500 00) ... . ... 1000 0 0
Ditto Superintendent
Gun Carriage Manu.
factory, " .........: 700 0 0 (300 00) 700 0 0
Ditto Director of Artil-
lery Depot, a - - - - 450 0 0 ... 105 555 0 0
Ordnance Commissary,d 350 0 0 - - 350 0 0
"' ditto, being a
ommissioned Offi-
cer, d .................. 250 0 0 | .. - - ... 250 0 0
Assistant ditto, ditto
ditto, d ............... 200 0 0 - ... 200 0 0
Deputy Assistant Com-
missary, ditto ditto, a 120 0 0 - - 120 0 0
Ordnance Inspector, if
a Field Officer, b...... 200 0 0 || 30 ... ... 42 ... 272 0 0


PAY AND ALLOWANCES. Cx V

#| #| | | | |#.
APPOINTMENT. # # : # # # # 3
# ##| ##" | ###|##| #
Ordnance Inspector, if | R. A. P. R. R. A. P. R. R. A. R. A. P.
not a Field Officer, b 100 0 0 42 ... 142 0 0
Officer Commanding
Nilgiri Hills, a ...... 400 0 0 - 20 || 420 0 0
Ditto General Depôt
of European Pen-
sioners, Gudalar, b | 200 0 0 ... ... 15 ... 215 0 0
Paymaster, Madras, b|1000 0 0 (1000 00) ... . ... 1000 0 0
Ditto Out-station, 1st
class, d ............... 600 0 0 ... . ... . ... 600 0 0
Ditto ditto, 2nd class, d 400 0 0 - - - - - - ... 400 0 0
Deputy ditto, 1st class,d 300 0 0 - - 300 0 0
Ditto ditto, 2nd class, d 200 0 0 200 0 0
Persian Interpreter at
Head Quarters, b ... 350 0 0 | 60 ... ... . ... ... 410 0 0
Secretary to Com-
| mander-in-Chief, a... 891 8 7 60 (160 00) ... . ... 951 8 7
Ditto to Provincial
ditto, a ............... 445 12 4 30 | 475 12 4
| Staff Officer at St.
Thomas's Mount, b | 207 0 0 ... ... . . . . ... 207 0 0
Ditto at Palaveram, |
Singapur, and Moul-
mein, d ............... 60 0 0 60 0 0
Ditto at Pumamallí, d 50 0 0 | ... • * * * * * | * * * 50 0 0
Ditto at Tirupatiar
(Tripassore), d ...... ... ... . ... . ... ... 35 | ... 35 0 0
Ditto at Stations of one |
or more corps, d...... ... ... • - - - - 25 - 25 0 0 |
| Ditto at inferior Sta- |
| tions, d ............... ... ... . ... . ... ... 10 ... 10 0 0 |
Superintendent of Pow-
der Manufactory, b...1000 0 0 | ... (136 8 o ... . ... 1000 0 0
Ditto of Family Pay-
ments and Pensions, b|600 0 0 (795 00) ... . ... 600 0 0
| Ditto of Cadets, b....... 110 0 0 - - - ... 94 s 204 8 0
REMARKS,
a Exclusive of pay and full regimental allowances.
b Exclusive of pay and ordinary regimental allowances.
c Exclusive of pay proper, but including full regimental allowances.
d Exclusive of pay and allowances, according to rank and station.
e In addition to pay and allowances, if a Major-General commanding a division.
f Draws 175R. in addition when in charge of Military Bázárs.
h Including pay and full regimental allowances.
k Paid at Bombay-half chargeable there and half at Madras.


cxvi
PAY AND ALLOWANCES.
TABLE E. -— CIVIL STAFF-
1
1

APPOXNTXBNT.
Assistant Assay Master, b .... ..
Do. to Government Agent at
Karnul, d ...................... ..
Do. in Ganjam, d ............. ..
Agent for suppression of Meriah
Sacrifice and Female Infanti-
cide in Orissa, d ............. ..
Principal Assistant do., d ..
Assistant do., d ................ ..
Government A cnt at Chcpék, f
Marathi Trans ator to Govern-
ment, i ...... ................ ..
Mint Master, d
Police Magistrate, d ..
Resident at Tiruvankodu (Tra-
vancore) and Kachhi (Cochin) d
Secretary to Government Mili-
tary Department, c .......... ..
Deputy do., u ..... ........... ..
Do. Private to Governor, d
Do. Military to Governor, d
Do. College Board and Uni-
versity f
Superintendent Magnetic Ob-
servatory, b
Do. of Roads ..... ..
Do. first Assistant . Q c
D0. second do .... ....... ..
Surveyor-General in charge of
Survey, a ..................... ..
Do. attached to a Survey, It





Salaries Paid and Audited in the Civil Department.


- § E 5? h .
as ~
si 2'55 R. A. P. 11.. A. R. A. P. R. A. P.
350 0 0 .. 350 0 0
200 0 0 (1:81 6) '... ‘ 200 0 0
1420} '
55s 5 4 {L816 600 5 4
2000 0 0 9500 0) .2000 0 0
.900 0 0 g250 0) 1 900 0 0
000 0 0 9250 0) ...'e00 0 0
525 0 0 525 0 0
300 0 0 .. 300 0 0
..1750 0 0 .. 1750 0 0
1000 0 0 .. 1000 0 0
2800 0 0 .2800 0 0
2000 0 0 .. .2000 0 0
600 0 0 .. 600 0 0
1500 0 0 1500 0 0
1000 0 0 . .. 1000 0 0
500 0 0 500 0 0
500 0 0 ...,500 0 0
1250 0 0 11250 0 0
400 0 0 h93 0) 400 0 0
300 0 0 h93 0) 300 0 0
350 0 0 43 14 0 sea 14 0
1s000 .249420494
1i.1‘.MAl-Lille.’ W
a Exclusive of Pay and full Regimental Allowances.
b Exclusive of Pay and Ordinary Regimental Allowances.
0 Exclusive of Pay Proper, but including full Regimental Allowances.
d Including Pay and full Regimental Allowances.
e Pay Audited in Military Department.
f When held by a Military Qflicer, not otherwise entitled to Pay and Military Allowances,
the Salary is Consolidated and includes these.
a Travelling Allowances paid only when absent from Head Quarters on Duty.
h Tcntage at ta. per diem to Civil Engineer, and Ba. to an Assistant do. while actually
under canvass.
i When held by Military Omcer, not otherwise entitled to Pay and A1lowauees,he receives
only Pay or Subsistence in Military Department.
j Fixed Tent Allowance.
Ic Extra Ten Luge at 211. 10A. per diem only while on Circuit on Duty.


A VOCABULARY OF INDIAN WORDS
USED IN THIS Book.
[A. signifies Arabic; H. Hindustani or Hindi; K. Kanarese ; Mal. Malayalam; M. Mar&_thi ;
My. Malay; P. Persian; B. Sanskrit; Tel. Telugu; Tur. Turkish; T. Tamil.]
Anxiu, A. pl. of lmkm, “orders.”
Amie. (lsiingelalr), A. “commander,” a title of princes and nobles, as, the Amirs of
in .
A’N5 (Anna , H. the 16th part of a rupee, or about three half-pence.
Atmona, al. the 10th class of Nairs, who are potmakers by profession.
Aiysxsrr (Anicut), Tel. aqida, “ between," kagfgfu, “to bind," a dam or embank-
ment.
Bsnfin, A. a tree of the tamarisk kind.
B.uL/mun, P. “brave,” “chivalric ;” a title of honor among Mubammadans.
Berni (Bud erow), H. a large, round~bottomed boat, without a keel.
Baum, S. t e 5th incarnation of Vishnu in the shape of a dwarf.
BANG-LA (Bungalow), H. a thatched house, the name usually applied to the houses
of the English in India, and to the houses for travellers built by Govern-
ment on the public roads.
Biesu (Begum), Tur. a lad of rank, a queen or princess.
Bnflri (Betta), H. additiona allowance to public servants or soldiers employed on
special duty.
Bniumsiv, S. a Hindu of the first, or priestly caste.
Bonnmsr, S. a worshipper of Buddh, or Sakya Muni, who died A.D. 543.
Bizin, P. a market, or market-place.
CASTE, class, sect, corruption of the Portuguese caste or race.
GATAMARAN, T. ka_t_tu, “to bind,” maram, “a tree,” a log-raft on which the
natives of Madras paddle throu h the surf.
Gianni, S. a discus, the quoit of Vis nu.
Crmusan, S. Hindii dice.
OHLRNADU, Mal. the 3rd class of Nairs, who are accountants.
On iwsni, Tel. a native rest-house for travellers.
CHIINNA-KUNDAKA, T. a kind of native harrow.
Cnourxrnr, an English corruption of Chawadi, q.v.
CHUNAM, S. an English corruption of H. chwind, from S. 0/nZr1_1ah, lime, a plaster
or mortar made of shells of a remarkable whiteness and brilliance.
Comrourzn, M . an enclosure. A corruption of the Malay word, Kampong.
Daenors or AHGOP, S. deb, “the body,” _(/up, “to hide,” a circular structure
inside Buddhistic cave temples, supfposed to contain the ashes or relics of
Buddha, and occupying the place 0 our altars.
Dnnniin (Durbar), P. a royal court, an audience or levee.
DHABAM SAL.-1, S. dhwrma, “ justice," “piety,” and .vha'Za’, “a hall ;” a place
of accommodation for travellers and pilgrims.
Dfwiiv, P. “a ro al court," “ a minister ;" especially the chief financial minister.
Dave, S. an Eng ish corruption of durga, “a fort.”
Dunisn, S. do, “two,” bhdskd, “language;" one who speaks two languages, an
interpreter.
17


cxviii A WOCABULARY OF INDIAN WORDS.
FAKfR, A. “poor;” a religious man, who has taken the vow of poverty.
GANA, S. an attendant of Shiva.
GARISHA, Tel. a measure of grain = 400 markals, or 185.2 cubic ft., or 9860 lb.
avoirdupois.
GHAT £ S. ghatta,“a landing place,” “steps on a river side,” a mountain
eading up, like a step, to a tableland.
GoPURA, S. from gup, “to preserve;” a town gate.
GUMÁsHTAH, P. an agent.
HAMMAL, A, a bearer of a pálki.
HAváLDAR, H, an officer in native regiments corresponding to our sergeant.
HóM, S. sacrifice.
HUK#AH (Hookah), A. a pipe.
HUzöR, A. The royal presence, a respectful term applied to collectors, judges, or
other high officials.
ILAVAs, T. a tribe in Tinnevelli and S. Tiruvankodu (Travancore).
JAGíR, P, a tenure by which the public revenues of an estate or district were
granted to an individual, with powers to collect them, and administer the
general affairs of the place.
JANJAM. T. the thread worn by brahmans as a caste distinction.
JAM'ADAR, A, a native officer next to a Súbahdār, and corresponding to our
lieutenant
KACHERí or KACHHARí, H.M. a court or office for public business.
KáLAM, T. a disease affecting the tobacco plant.
KÁTopf, M. a wild tribe inhabiting the Sahyādri range. -
KHAN, A, a title of nobility answering to our “lord.”
KHANDí (Candy), M. a measure of weight and capacity: in Madras = 500 lb.;
in Bombay, 560 lb.
KHIND, M. a narrow pass between mountains.
KIL'ADAR, A, the commander of a fort.
KIMKHwAB (Kimcob), P. silk stuff interwoven with gold and silver.
KIRüM, Mal, the highest class of Nairs.
KoLís, M., a caste in the Konkan and Gujarat, who are fishermen, watermen, and
robbers.
KoTARAM, T. a palace.
KUBBAH, A, a dome.
KULí £ T. and Tur, a day laborer.
KUMBí, M. a farmer, a farm laborer.
LáKH (LAC), S. the number 100,000.
LAT or LATH “a pillar;” ancient Hinda pillars on which inscriptions were set
up in an old and obsolete character.
MÁLA, S, a garland.
MAN (Maund), H. a weight, varying in different parts of India. In Bombay it
is 25 lb.; in Bengal, since 1833, 87#1b.
MANDAPAM, S. an open pavilion or porch in front of a temple.
MAssULAH, T. a boat sewed together, used for crossing the surf at Madras.
MoNsoon, A. a corruption of the A. mausim, “a season;” applied now to the
periodical rains in India.
MoRTT, T, a Toda village.
MAHARs, M. a low caste in the Bombay Presidency.
MUKwAR, T, a low caste in Malabar.
MUNSHí (Moonshee), A., a writer, a secretary, a teacher of languages.
MUNSIF, A. a native judge of the 3rd class.
NACH, S. a dance, an exhibition of dancing-girls.
NAG, S. the cobra snake.
NAIK, S, an officer in native armies corresponding to a corporal.


A WOCABULARY OF INDIAN WORDS. cxix
NAUBAT KHANAH, A, the guard-room, the chamber over a gateway, where a
band is stationed.
NLADIs, Mah. an outcast tribe of Malabar.
NIZAM, # arranger; a title of the prince whose capital is Haidarābād in the
Dakhan.
NówÁB, A, this word means lit., “deputies,” being the pl. of na'ib, “a deputy.”
It is now a title of governors.
PAGoDA, P, an Anglican corruption of the P. word but-kadah, “an idol temple;”
also a coin = 33 rupees, called by the natives hun, but deriving its appel-
lation of pagoda from its showing a temple on one face.
PAL-AL, T. the priests of the Toda tribe, lit. “milkmen.”
PALEGAR (Polygar), T. Tel. a shareholder, a landed proprietor. A title of native
chiefs in the Madras Presidency.
PALANQUEEN, H. an Anglican corruption of the word palki, a sedan in which
persons of rank are carried on men's shoulders.
PAN, S. the leaf of the betel tree.
PARsís, P. a caste who worship the Deity under the emblem, fire.
PARwARís, H. people of low caste.
PE-Kov1L, T. “devil-temple,” a hut dedicated to the worship of the spirits of
dead men.
PEoNs, H. an Anglican corruption of the word piyddah, “footman.”
PESHKARs, P. an agent. In Bengal, the native officer under a judge, next to the
Sarrishtadar in rank.
PESHKASH, P. tribute, an offering from an inferior to a superior.
PESHwA, P. the prime ministers of the Rājas of Sátárá, who afterwards became
the supreme chiefs of the Maratha nation.
PETA, Tel. a native town or suburb.
PHATEMÁR, # lit., “a letter carrier,” a sailing vessel common on the W. coast
of India.
PHINs, T. the Tuda name for the stone circles on the Nilgiris.
PICE, H. a corruption of the word paisa, a copper coin, of which 64 go to a rupee.
PíR, P. old, a Muhammadan saint.
RáJA, S. a Hinda king or prince.
RAMosís, S. a tribe in the Dakhan who are watchmen and thieves.
RÁNí, S. the wife of a Rājā, a queen or princess.
RATH, S. a chariot.
REGIMENTDARs, E. and P. a commissioned native officer in the Maisür Horse.
RISALAHDAR, A, a native captain of a troop of horse.
RYor, A. an Anglican corruption of the word r’aiyat, a subject, a peasant.
SADR AMíN, A. a native judge of the highest class.
SADR 'ADALAT, A. the Supreme Court of Justice in India for trying appeals.
SAHIB, A. lord, a title applied to English gentlemen in India.
SAKTí, S. a goddess, the personified power of a deity.
SAMBARANI, T. frankincense.
SARPEsHKARs, P. a non-commissioned officer in the Maisür Horse.
SARZAFARDARs, P. a commissioned officer in the Maisür Horse.
SATí (Suttee), S. the burning of a widow with her deceased husband.
SHAH, P. a king, the title usually applied to the King of Persia.
SHANARs, T., a tribe in Tinnevelli and the extreme S. of India, who are palm
tree climbers by profession.
SHANKH, S. a shell, the large shells which are blown as horns by the Hindús.
SHOLA, T, a patch of jungle, a wooded dell.
SHUDRA, S. the 4th or lowest caste of Hindús.
SIPAHs (Sepoy), P., a native soldier, one of a sipah or army. - -
SHIBANDí (Seebandy), M. an auxiliary, a soldier of a nativo auxiliary levy.


CXX A WOCABULARY OF INDIAN WORDS.
SíTÁPHAL, S. a species of fruit.
SúBAH, A, a province,
SúBAHDAR, A, a governor of a province, a native military officer corresponding
to a captain.
TAHsíLDAR, A, a native collector of revenue.
TAj, P. a crown, the name of a magnificent mausoleum at Agra.
TALUK, or more properly ta’allukah, a district, a division of a province,
TANAR NAIMAR, T. the 9th class of the Nairs, who are tailors by profession.
TAPPAL, H, the post, delivery of letters. -
TARAGoN, T. the 11th class of the Nairs, who are weavers.
TATTI, M. matting, especially of bamba.
TERIRIs, T. the temples of the Tuda or Toda tribe.
TUDAs, T. a remarkable tribe on the Nilgiri Hills.
TUGULTIs, T. '" quagmires on the Nilgiris.
TURBAT, A. a tomb.
WAZIR, A, a prime minister.
WIHARA, S. a cell, an apartment in a monastery.
WILLIAM, T. the 4th class of Nairs, who are farmers.
WIMÁNA, S. a sacred vehicle or shrine.
WALLAKATRA, T, the 7th class of Nairs, who are barbers.
WALLATERA, T. the 8th class of Nairs, who are washermen.
WARALí, M. a wild tribe in the N. Konkan.
WATTAKATTA, T, the 5th class of Nairs, who are oilmakers,
WóTz, K. Indian steel. .
ZAFARDARs, A. a non-commissioned officer in the Maisar Horse.
ZAMíNDAR, P. a landed proprietor.
ZIAR, T. a low caste in Malabar.
ZIL'A (Zillah), A. a province or tract, constituting the jurisdiction of a circuit
judge.
The following abbreviations are used in the Routes given in this book:—
b. Bungalow Properly Banglá. x 2 ns....... Cross two nálás (nullahs).
b. & t Banglá and Tappāl or N............. North.
. & t. o. ... { native post-office. . ............ Page.
div........ .... Division of the army. Post-office.
Dharam Sálá, a native Road.
dh........ • * * * * | house of accommoda- River.
tion for travellers. River left bank.
E. I. C....... East India Company. Right bank.
... East. Rupees.
Furlong. Roy. As.Soc. Royal Asiatic Society.
Feet. 8............. South.
... Inch. W. ......... West.
*... . . . . . . . . . . . . 3/ds. ......... Yards
- Mile. h
(Properly Nálá or nála
n. Nullah... l “water-course.” 5


SECTION I.
MAD RAS.
Preliminary Information.
1. TERRITORIAL DIVISIONs — CoLLECTORATES - PoPULATION - REVENUE.-
2. Monsoons — CLIMATE.-3. GovERNMENT – CIVIL OFFICERs – ARMY.-
4. OBJECTs oF INTEREST To THE TRAVELLER — NATURAL PRODUCTS.-
5. ARCHITECTURAL AND PICTURESQUE ToURs.
1. TERRITORIAL DIVISIONS-COLLECTORATES-POPULATION-REVENUE.
THE Madras Presidency may be conveniently considered as consisting of five
divisions, according to the present distribution of the army. These are:-
1. Central Division, comprehending Guntár, Nellar, Chengalpatt, N. Arcot, S.
Arcot. 2. The N. Division, comprising Ganjām, Wishakpatanam (Vizaga-
patam), Rajamahendri, and Machlipatanam (Masulipatam). 3. The S.
Division, or Salem, Koimbatar, Trichinápalli (Trichinopoly), Tanjar, Madura,
Tinnevelli, and the territory of the Rājā of Travancore. 4. The Maisür Division
extending over the province of the same name, Malabar, and Kanara. 5. The
Ceded Districts Division, embracing Kadapa, Ballari, and Karnal. Besides these,
Madras troops are employed in two portions of the Bengal Presidency, thus
forming–1. The Ságar Division, lying to the N. of Nagpur, and comprising the
British districts of Ságar, Jabalpur, Hushangābād, Seoni, Dumoh, Narsinghpur,
Baitul, Ramgarh, and Sohájpur, as well as some Native States. 2. The Pegu
Division. To these are to be added the Nizam's territory and that of Nagpur, in
both of which subsidiary armies are maintained; and which, as being, quoad
military matters, governed by Madras, as well as on account of their geographical
situation, are best included under the Madras Presidency. It must not be for-
gotten, however, that they are usually assigned to Bengal, to which, as far as civil
administration is concerned, they belong.
The total area of this Presidency is 355,846 sq. m., reckoning the British terri-
tory (as per table) at 184,077 sq. m.; the Nizam's dominions at 95,337; and
Nagpur at 76,432.
The following is a table of the Collectorates in the Madras P. taking them in
1


2 TERRITORIAL DIVISIONS. Sect. I.
their order from N.E. to S.W. The names in Italics are those of protected States,
more or less subject to British dominion :-
No. NAME. *£" | PopULATION. Drvis. | NET REv." CHARGES
| COLLEC.
1 | Ganjam............... 5,758 926,930 # £142,366 |£16,847
- Jaypur ........ ..., | 13,041 391,230 #
2 | Vishakpatanam...... 4,690 | 1,254,272 | E | 151,006 | 12,124
3 | Rājāmahendri ...... 4,501 | 1,012,036 a 247,326 21,363
4 Machlipatanam ... 4,711 520,866 || 2: 130,118 13,522
5 || Guntúr and Palnád 4,752 570,083 - 205,787 20,258
6 | Nellór ............... 7,959 935,690 | # 246,409 24,699
7 | Chengalpatt ......... 2,717 583,462 | * | 147,751 17,138
including Madras 27 720,000 | # 169,343 | 19,012
8 | N. Arcot ............ 6,580 1,485,873 5 234,553 | 19,604
9 S. Arcot............... 5,020 | 1,006,005 o 297,111 22,718
10 | Ballari .. ... 12,101 | 1,220,599 - # . 284,717 21,800
11 Kadapa ... ... 13,298 | 1,451,921 : ##| 250,245 17,936
12 Karnal ............... 3,278 273,190 55*| 85,778 11,783
13 | Salem.................. 7,499 | 1,195,377 201,643 17,819
14 || Koimbatár - 8, 151 | 1,153,862 | | | 259,491 | 19,438
15 Trichinápalli.. 2,922 709,196 || 3 || 141,782 | 11,517
— | Pudukóta ... • • 1,165 61,745 | #
16 Taniór ............... 3,781 1,676,086 # 482,101 45,675
17 | Madura & Dindigal 13,545 1,756,791 - 249,794 15,696
18 Tinnevelli............ 5,482 | 1,269,216 | * 282,930 22,046
- | Kurg.................. 2,116 135,600
- || Maisür ............... 30,886 || 3,460,696 || -
19 || Malabar 6,050 | 1,514,909 | # - 260,478 28,857
20 | Kanara ... 7,152 | 1,056,333 || 3" | 275,755 29,310
- | Cochin ............ ... i,988 || "288,176 | *
– Travancore ......... 4,722 | 1,011,824
— | French Territory ... 185 171,217
Total ............ 184,077 28,222,185
1 | Nizām's dominions. 95,337 || 10,666,080 1,550,000
2 | Nagpur.............. . 76,432 4,650,000
Grand Total ... [355,846 || 43,538,265
Of the Collectorates, Ganjām, Vizagapatam, and Karnal are Non-Regulation
provinces; the rest are subject to the Government Regulations in matters of law
and finance.
* Taken from the Revenue Board's Report for the Faslf year 1262=1852-3. Since that year
in consequence of drought, the revenue has somewhat fallen. The charges of collection
comprise the salaries of collectors, Tahsildárs, and other Revenue servants; but not the ex-
penditure of the districts in the Judicial, Military, or Public Works Departments. There are


Madras. GOVERNMENT-CIVIL OFFICERS-ARMY. 3
An analysis of the Revenue supplies the following particulars:-
Land Tax .................. £3,445,716 Post-Office ... 41,392
Abkāri........................ 221,431 || Marine....... 7,862
Sàir Tax on Personal Pro- Judicial Fees and Fines... 14,053
perty ...................... 25,597* | Subsidies (from Maisar,
Muhtarifah Taxon Trades 110,237 Travancore, and Cochin) 344,643
Stamps........................ 50,185 | Interest on Rev. Arrears 33,227
Customs .............. ... 100,931 || Miscel. Civil Receipts...... 33, 183
Tobacco (abolished) - - 8,958 Do. in Revenue Depart. ... 6,880
Salt ........................... 480,214 -
Mint........................... 9,893 Total ... £4,934,402+
2. MONSoons—CLIMATE.
The whole of the Madras P. is situated within the tropics, extending from
Cape Komorin in lat. 8° 4 to Nagpur in lat. 21° 10'. The climate, therefore,
may be generally described as exceedingly hot, intensely so in the provinces, where
the Monsoons are slight and short in duration, as in the Ceded Districts and in
the Collectorates of the N. Div. The S.W. Monsoon, commencing about April,
thoroughly cools all the W. coast of the Madras P., i.e., the provinces of
Travancore, Malabar, and Kanara, as well as part of Koimbatar and Maisür;
but the W. Ghats prevent its beneficial effects from being much felt further
inland. On the other hand the N.E. Monsoon, which commences in Oct., is
neither so strong nor so lasting, and hence the greater heat of the E. provinces,
which are principally dependent upon it for rain. From the middle of Nov. till
March is the best season for travelling.
3. GOVERNMENT—CIVIL OFFICERS–ARMY.
The Government of Madras is vested in a Governor and 3 members of Council,
of whom the Commander-in-Chief is one. The other 2 are civilians. There
have been 59 Governors since the time of Sir W. Langhorne in 1672. Of these
the most distinguished were—Lord W. Bentinck, 30th Aug., 1803; Sir G. Barlow,
24th Dec., 1807; and Sir T. Munro, 10th June, 1820. There are 3 Secretaries;
the Chief Secretary, who, with 1 deputy, manages the Political, Public, and Judicial
Department; the Secretary of the Revenue and Public Works D., to whom a
deputy will probably be assigned, and has been applied for; and the Secretary of
the Military D., assisted by 1 deputy. There are 186 Civilians, of whom, on an
average, about 40 are applied in exclusively judicial duties; 94 are collectors of
revenue, and magistrates; 34 are absent or unemployed; 7 studying at the col-
no authentic returns of the revenue of Jaypur, Pudukóta, Cochin, Travancore, and the
French Territory. In fact (with the exception of Pudukóta, which is only a Zamíndári of the
Madura Collectorate, and ought to be included in it) these States are not subject to the Civil
Government of the Madras Presidency, though included in its territorial limits. The returns
from them are submitted direct to the Government of India in the political department. The
population returns are for 1853-4. A new census is about to be taken.
* This tax was abolished in 1844, and is now collected only on the frontiers of foreign
territories. When levied throughout the Presidency it amounted to £242,066.
f The refunds of charges, and proceeds from public sales of provisions, etc., in the Military
Departments, and items of profit and loss, are not included. With all these the total receipts
would be £5,098,338.


4 TABLE OF CIVIL PAY. Sect. I.
lege; and 11 engaged in the Accountant-General's and other offices. The scale
of allowance is shown in the following table:—
Table of Civil Pay, per Mensem,
Member of Council and Chief Judge of Sadr and Faujdari’Adilat. 5,333 5 %
Member of Council, President of the Board of Revenue............... 5,333 5 4
Commissioner N. Sarkārs, who is 1st Member of Board of Revenue 5,000 0 0
Accountant-General (including fees)................................. • * * * * * 4,188 4 11
Member of Legislative Council of India................................. 4,166 10 8
Chief Secretary ........... - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ... 4,166 10 8
Puisne Judge of Sadr’Adālat .. .... 4,083 5 4
2nd Member of Revenue Board............................................. 3,408 5 4
Secretary in Revenue Department.......................................... 3,333 5 4
Collector of Sea Customs ..... .... 3,179 6 0
3rd Member Revenue Board ..... ... 3,016 10 8
Sub-Treasurer (including fees)..................................... ........ 2,672 11 7
Deputy Accountant-General (do.) .................. • • • • * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 2,679 6 8
Collector of Ganjām and Agent to Governor .. 2,850 0 0
Collector of Tanjar................. • * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 2,583 5 4
Collector of Machlipatanam ... ................... • * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 2,508 5 4
Collector of Wishakpatanam and Agent to Governor ... 2,500 0 0
Inspector of Prisons ........................... •- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ... 2,500 0 0
Director of Public Instruction ............................................. 2,500 0 0
Postmaster-General, or Collector, or Civil and Session Judge ...... 2,333 5 4
Secretary to Revenue Board ..................................... * • * * * * ... 2,000 0 0
Sub-Secretary to ditto ............................. ... 1,500 0 0
Register S.C. and Translator to Government. ... 2,259 6 0
Register Sadr Court ..................... - ... 2,187 10 0
Deputy ditto ........ • * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * . 1,300 0 0
Civil Auditor and Superintendent of Stamps ....... * • ... 2,166 10 8
Governor's Agent at Karnal....... * * * * * * ... 2,000 0 0
Deputy-Secretary to Government ........................ ... 1,650 0 0
Deputy-Collector of Sea Customs............................ • * * * * * * * * * * * * * 1,500 0 0
Subordinate Zila Judge ................ • * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * • * * * * * * * * * * * • * * * * * * * * 1,400 0 0
Sub-Collector and Joint Magistrate........... ... 1,166 10 8
Head Assistant to Accountant-General ................................. 850 0 0
Head Assistant-Register Sadr Court.................... • * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 700 0 0
Second Assistant to Accountant-General .. 700 0 0
Head Assistant to Collector (above 6 years). 733 5 4
Head Assistant to Collector (under 6 years). 558 5 4
Assistant to Collector (above 6 years) ....... 525 0 0
Assistant to Collector (under 6 years) .. 350 0 0
Senior Civilian without employ........... ... 350 0 0
Student at College [highest rate].......................................... 350 0 0
Ditto [second]......................... • • * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 300 0 0
Ditto [lowest rate]................................. • * * * * * * * * • * * * * * * * * * * * * * * ... 250 0 0


_~




Md&!‘d8. PAYMENT OF DAILY AND MONTHLY BH.A'TAI. 5
l Pay of Native Civil Oficers. Mo1(1_<g1,y_
B. A. P.
Above 20 years‘ service as Sarishtadar in unsettled districts ......... 700 0 0
From 15 to 20 years, as do. do. . 525 0 0
Principal Sadr Amin ........................ .. . ............................ .. 500 0 0
From 10 to 15 years as Sarishtadar in unsettled districts 437 8 0
Above 20 years as do. in settled do.
,, 15 to 20 as do. in do. do.
,, 5 to 10 as do. in unsettled do. 350 0 O
Under 5 years as do. in do. do. .......... ..
From 10 to 15 as do. in settled do. } 280 0 0
,, 5 to 10 as do. in do. do. 245 0 0
Under 5 years as do. in do. do. 210 0 0
Sadr Amins .................................................... .. 200 0 0
District Munsifs, lst class 0 0
,, 2nd ,, 0 0
an 3rd ,9 0 0
Table of Rates for Payment of daily Bhdtd.
To Col1ector’s Huzfir servants above the rank of Dafadar when on
circuit, whose pay amounts to or exceeds 200 rupees ............. .. 1 14 0
To do. less than 200 and more than 100 rupees 0 15 0
To do. ,, 100 and more than 35 rupees .. 0 7 6
To do. ,, 35 and more than 10 rupees ............. .. 0 3 9
The above allowances are to be paid for the whole period the Kachcri is on
circuit, except when a halt of more than 10 days is made : upon such occasions
they will cease after the 10th day, until the setting out again of the Kacheri.
Monthly Bluitd.
Sarishtadars of the Board of In addition to the
Revenue when required hire of Palan- .
to travel the provinces 87 8 0 keen bearers and bsarggfgfg
upon public duty .......... .. coolres. 13:3 Ht on the
On account of all 30th J
To Gumashtas accompanying l 28 0 0 their travelling 1 826“ne'
them ................ charges of every ‘
description. /
Peons escorting prisoners and witnesses beyond the limits of the Sanctioned
district to which they are attached, receive bhata at the rate of by Govern-
one ana each er diem, from and after the day on which they ment on the
may quit the limits of their own district until that of their re- 6th August,
turn within those limits. N183§é9
0. .


6 PoWERS OF CIVIL OFFICERS. Sect. I.
POWERS OF EUROPEAN AND NATIVE CIVIL of FICERS--JUDICIAL DEPARTMENT.
Civil Jurisdiction.
Village Munsifs—Are empowered to try suits, without appeal, for money or
other personal property not exceeding 10 rupees.
District Munsifs—Have original jurisdiction in suits for land exempt from
revenue, the annual produce of which does not exceed 100 rupees, and in all other
suits the amount or value of which does not exceed 1,000 rupees. They, however,
cannot receive suits in which they themselves, or their relatives or dependants,
are parties. Nor can they try pauper suits unless referred to them by the Zila
Judge.
Sadr Amins—Have original jurisdiction in suits for land exempt from revenue,
the annual produce of which does not exceed 250 rupees, and in all other suits,
the amount or value of which does not exceed 2,500 rupees; but they cannot
receive pauper suits unless referred to them by the Zila Judge.
Subordinate Judges and Principal Sadr Amins—May hear and try appeals
from District Munsifs, when referred to them by the Zila Judges, but when the
Subordinate Court is established at a place remote from the Zila Court station,
the Sadr’Adálat, with the sanction of Government, may order appeals from the
decisions or orders of District Munsifs stationed within the limits assigned to such
Court to be preferred to the Subordinate Judge or Principal Sadr Amin of such
Court. Their original jurisdiction extends to suits not exceeding 10,000 rupees.
Assistant Judges—May hear and try appeals from Sadr Amins and District
Munsifs, when referred to them by the Zila Judges.
Zila Judges—Appeals from inferior Courts lie to Zila Judges.
At stations where the Subordinate Court is presided over by a Principal Sadr
Amin, appeals from decisions of European Officers of Government lie to Zila
Judge, instead of the Principal Sadr Amin.
Have original jurisdiction in all cases for not less than 10,000 rupees.
Sadr 'Adalat-All appeals from decisions or orders of the Zila Courts lie to
the Sadr’Adálat.
All special appeals lie to the Sadr’Adälat.
The Sadr’Adālat is empowered to call up from the Zila Courts, and try in the
first instance, suits for 10,000 rupees and upwards.
The Queen in Council—Appeals lie to the Queen in Council from decrees of
the Sadr’Adálat, in which the amount or value exceeds 10,000 rupees.
No. of Courts.
Sadr’Adälat.................. ......... 1 | Principal Sadr Amins ............... 12
Zila Judges ....... ... 20 | Mufti Sadr Amins...... •
Assistant Judges ....
Subordinate Judges ...
... 1 | Sadr Amins .... - -
.... 9 | District Munsifs .................. ... 119
Criminal Jurisdiction.
Heads of Villages—Are to apprehend offenders and forward them to the
District Police, except in the trivial cases which they are empowered to punish.
To report to the District Police-officers the arrival of suspicious persons.


Madras. CRIMINAL JURISDICTION, 7
To search for stolen property, on receiving information of such property being
concealed.
To take charge of strays and report each case to the District Police.
To hold an enquiry when receiving information of the discovery of dead
bodies supposed to have been murdered, and to send a notice of the same to the
District Police-officer.
Are empowered in trivial cases, such as abusive language, inconsiderable
assaults or affrays, and petty thefts not exceeding 1 rupee, to confine the offender
in the Village Châwadi for a period not exceeding 12 hours, or to put him in stocks
for a time not exceeding 6 hours.
Subordinate Officers of Police—Are not empowered to hear and determine
complaints for petty offences; they are required to hold enquiries in cases of a
heinous nature, and to forward their proceedings to the District Police-officer for
transmission to the Magistrate, or Criminal Courts.
In all cases of murder they should proceed to the spot, examine the body and
all other circumstances likely to lead to the discovery of the perpetrators.
To search for stolen property.
Not empowered to inflict punishment of any kind.
Police Amins—Possess the same Police and Criminal powers as are vested in
Tahsildárs.
Tahsildars—Are to act as Heads of Police, and to have charge in subordination
to the Magistrate. To exercise general authority over all Subordinate Police-
officers; are charged with the maintenance of the peace. To assist the village
police in apprehending offenders.
On receiving information of heinous offences, to apprehend the suspected per-
sons, and, on apprehension, to examine the witnesses and forward proceedings to
the Subordinate Judge.
To communicate with each other information they may receive of offences
committed, or of gangs of robbers, or of suspicious persons having entered or
taken refuge in each others’ Districts.
To pursue offenders into any District or Zila.
In all cases of murder they shall proceed to the spot, examine the body and
other circumstances likely to lead to the discovery of the perpetrators.
To search for stolen property.
To prevent Sati [the cremation of widows], to arrest persons selling or pawning
property under suspicious circumstances, to prevent forcible occupation or seizure
of lands, crops, or water.
May punish cases of a trivial nature, such as abusive language and incon-
siderable assaults or affrays, by a fine not exceeding 3 rupees, commutable to im-
prisonment not exceeding 3 days, or to confinement in stocks for a time not
exceeding 6 hours. -
In cases of petty theft, or cattle stealing, or killing or wounding cattle not
attended with aggravating circumstances, and when the value of property shall
not exceed 5 rupees, they may punish by imprisonment not exceeding 10 days.
Magistrate—To apprehend offenders charged with crimes or misdemeanors. To
take security for keeping the peace.


8 CRIMINAL JURISDICTION. S8Ct. I.

To apprehend and confine, or hold to bail, vagrants and suspicious characters.
To have charge of the Police, and the maintenance of the peace.
To require manufacturers of fire-arms and offensive weapons to take out
licenses.
To prevent forcible occupation or seizure of lands, crops, or water.
To remove nuisances.
To determine rates of hire for coolies, bearers, etc.
To sell stray cattle if not owned.
To prevent Sate’.
To receive complaints respecting false weights and measures.
To appoint Police-oflicers.
To hear and determine all petty cases, as abusive language, calumny, incon-
siderable assaults or petty affrays, thefts unattended with aggravating circum-
stances, petty cases of stealing, poisoning or maliciously killing, maiming or
wounding cattle. '
May also exercise the powers vested in Subordinate Criminal Judges by Section
7, Regulation X. of 1816.
To report to Government before trying a case in which a British subject is
charged with an offence committed in the territory of any Foreign State.
To give immediate notice to Government on receiving charges of offences
against the State.
To act as guardian on behalf of any orphans or poor children abandoned by
their parents or convicted of vagrancy or any petty offence.
To report to Government any particular cases which may render it advisable
that an offence alleged to have been committed in a Foreign Territory should be
investigated in a District near to such Territory.
Powers—In petty cases of abusive language, calumny, or inconsiderable
assaults, or afl'rays—imprisonment not exceeding 15 days or fine within 50
rupees.
For petty theft and petty cases of poisoning, or maliciously killing, maiming
or wounding cattle—corporal punishment not exceeding 90 stripes, or imprison-
ment not exceeding 1 month. May adjudge solitary imprisonment when exer-
cising the powers of Subordinate Criminal Judges, may punish by imprisonment
not exceeding 6 months, with corporal punishment not exceeding 150 stripes, in
cases of theft, or in other cases with fine not exceeding 200 rupees, commutable
to imprisonment for a further period of 6 months.
Sadr Amin—May be employed by Subordinate Judges in the investigation
and decision of criminal cases under the same rule as Subordinate Criminal Judges,
except that cases committable to the Sessions Courts and those inwhich Europeans
or Americans are concerned are not cognizable by them.
When a Sadr Amin’s Court is established at a detached station, the Govern-
ment may empower him to receive and dispose of criminal cases sent to him by
the Police and Magistracy, for which the punishment shall not exceed the limi-
tation prescribed by Section 7, Regulation X. of 1816.
Subordinate Judge and I’rim-ipal Sadr Amin—Are to take cognizance of only
B11011 cases as are brought before them by the Magistrate or Police-officers, except


_~
Madras. cnrnmsr JURISDICTION. 9
in cases of gross and culpable neglect on the part of guards, whereby prisoners
may have escaped from custody; stealing, obliterating, injuring, or destroying
judicial records; perjury, subornation of perjury.
Principal S. Amin cannot receive charges against Europeans and Americans.
Subordinate Judge and Principal S. Amin may communicate direct with,
Police-oificers, and call for documents from Magistrates and Police-oflicers.
May punish or discharge prisoners.
To commit to Session Courts all cases not punishable by themselves.
Subordinate Judge to have charge of the jails.
Principal S. Amin not to have charge of jails except at a station detached
from the Session Court.
May act for the Magistrate for preserving the public peace or securing public
oifenders, when the Magistrate or his assistants are not present, and the ease
requires the immediate interference of the Magistracy.
Power-s—Two years’ imprisonment, corporal punishment not exceeding 150
stripes. Fine not exceeding 200 rupees.
Session Judges—To hold permanent Sessions for trial of Criminal cases cog-
nizable by them, and committed by Subordinate Judge and Principal S. Amin.
To discharge the functions of Subordinate Judges when no Subordinate Court
is established at the Zila stations. V
To have charge of jails at stations where the Subordinate Court is presided
over by a Principal S. Amin.
To review all reports of eases disposed of by the Subordinate Criminal authori-
ties and Magistracy, as well as all sentences and orders of the same.
To refer to the Faujdari ’Adalat all cases requiring sentence of death or im-
prisonment for life, or cases in which they differ from the Fatwa of Law-ofiicer or
verdicts of assessors and jurors.
To report to Faujdari ’Adélat the misconduct, neglect, or incapacity of Magis-
trates and Subordinate Criminal authorities.
May communicate direct with District Police-oificers.
To visit and inspect the jails.
Power-s—Fourteen years’ imprisonment, corporal punishment 195 stripes.
Fa14;7ia'rz' '.Addlat—To take cognizance of all matters relating to the adminis-
tration of justice in criminal cases, and the police of the country, and to submit to
Government such suggestions regarding them as may be deemed advisable.
To receive reports from Session Judges on the criminal system.
A single Judge competent to exercise all the powers vested in two or more
Judges except in trials where prisoners are liable to a sentence of death, and when
a single Judge does not concur with the Session Judge as to the conviction of the
prisoner.
May, on the representation of Magistrate, Subordinate Criminal or Session
Judge, sanction the offer of a conditional pardon to one or more of the supposed
accessories in heinous crimes, and confirm the same on the necessary condition
being fulfilled.
To prescribe the forms and fix the period for the transmission of all Reports
Calendars, Registers, or other Statements, etc. _


10 CRIMINAL JURISDICTION. Sect. I.

Po wera—-Death. *
The Madras army consists of a. body-guard of 127 troopers, who are with-
drawn from, and form part of, the regts. of Light Cavalry; 8 regts. of Native
Cavalry, of 376 men each ; 1 brig. Horse Artillery, consisting of 4 European and
2 native troops—European 483, and natives 216 men; 5 bat. Foot ditto-4
European, 4 companies 339 men each, 1 native, 6 companies 690 men each; 52
regts. of Native Infantry, 843 each; 3 regts. European Infantry, each 10 com-
panies, 2,841 ; 1 corps of Engineers and Sappers, 1,229 men; 2 European veteran
companies Artillery 125 men, and 2 of Infantry 115 men; 2 native veteran bat-
talions 2,472 men. The entire strength of the army for the year 1856 is as follows :-
European oflicers, 1,883; medical establishment, including veterinary surgeons,
253; Europeans, 5,100, including H. M.’s troops in all 9,287; native troops,
51,944; 10151, 59,180.
To this is to be added the Haidarabad contingent, consisting of 4 companies
of Artillery, 400 men; 4 regts. of Cavalry, 2,000 men; and 6 regts. of Infantry,
4,800 men ; in all 7,200 men. The stations of this force are Bolaram, Aura.nga-
biid, Gulbarga, Elichpur, Mumidabéid, Maktfil, Lingasur, Hingoli.
There is further the Nagpur subsidiary force, consisting of 1 regt. of Irregular
Cavalry, 500; 3 regts. of Infantry, 2,400; and 1 Horse Field Battery, 96; in
all 2,996 men.
Besides the above there are, also, the Nair brigade in Travancore, consisting
of 2 bat. of Infantry, 1,670 men, and 30 Artillerymcn, under 4 European com-
missioned oflicers, and 40 native commissioned ditto. The Karnfil Irregular
Horse, consisting of 226 men, under 2 European commissioned ofiicers and 9
native ofiicers. The Maisfir Silahdar Horse—7 ’ regts., in all 2,679 men, entirely
under native ofiicers, of whom there are 56. They are termed Regimentdars,
Risalahdars, and Sarzafardars, who are all commissioned; and Sarpeshkars,
J amfidars, Zafardérs, and Peshkérs, who are non-commissioned. The Malabar
Police Corps of 183 men, in 2 companies, each under a European oflicer ; and the
Ganjam Police Sibandi of 155 men, under a Sardar, 2 J am-iidars, etc. Finally
there is the Pegu Light Infantry bat., consisting of 1 European officer, 2 European
' It seems desirable to note here a few of the differences between the Bengal and Madras
civil system.
There are no village Munsifs in Bengal.
Munsils are placed at various towns or large villages in a Bengal district. There may be
from 8 to 12 in a district. In Bengal they are of two grades. The lowest can try cases involv-
ing property of the amount of 300 rupees, and the highest can go as far as 1,000 rupees.
Sadr Ainins can generally try cases up to 5,000 rupees in value.
Principal Sadr Amlns can try cases in which the amount of the property in dispute is un-
limited. Appeals from them go direct to the Sadr 24551111.
There are neither Subordinate nor Assistant Judges in any part of the Bengal Presidency.
At Madras the. e was, till recently, not much more than a verbal di11’ereuce between an As-
sistant and a Subordinate Judge——il' the post be held by an English eovenanted servant. The
Assistant Judges have now no criminal or original civil jurisdiction.
A Sarishtadar in Bengal is the head native ministerial oificer in a. court, whether it be the
court of a Civil and Sessions Judge, of a Collector, or of a Magistrate, or even of a Native
Judge. lie generally sits at the right hand of the presiding oflicer; reads out the depositions
of witnesses; countersigns many of the orders issued irom the court; and is generally re-
sponsible for the conduct oi’ the details of business.
Few Sarishtadars in Bengal get more than 100 rupees a month.


Madras. owners or INTEREST ro rnn TRAVELLER. 11
non-commissioned ofliccrs, and 930 men. This corps is at present very short of
its full complement.
In round numbers, therefore, the Madras army may be said to form a grand
total of 75,000 men.
4. osmcrs or mrnnnsr T0 THE TR.AVELLER—NATURAL rnonucrs.
The western Ghats present the greatest attractions to the tourist in quest of
beautiful scenery, as also to the sportsman. Under the head of Scenery most
worthy of a visit may be classed the Nilgiri Hills; the Animallé Hills ; the pro-
vince of Karg; the Falls of the Kdoéri; the Fall: of Gerseppa; the Falls of
Kulallam and Pdpandsham ; and the whole Coast of Kanara and Malabar. The
Collectorates of S. Arcot, Salem, Trichinapalli (Trichinopoly), Tanjfir, and
Madura are full of the most interesting remains of Hindu architecture, at the
same time that they possess remarkable public works, and ape rich in natural
products.
The finest specimens of Hindu architecture are the Pagodas of Conjeveram,
lfalwibalipuram, C’/ielambram, Shrirangam, Kumbhakonam, Tanjar, Madura, and
Rdmeshwarmn; and the Olioultry of Trimal Naik at Madura.
The Hill Forts of Vélar, 0/iitradrag, Suvarnadrug, Ambar, Nanolia’rug,‘and
Rag/akéta, may be taken as specimens of native fortresses.
The best specimens of English Oantonments are that at Bengalfir and the
Artillery Cantonment at St. Th0mas’s Mount.
The rice cultivation of Tanj fir, the tobacco and cotton of Koimbatfir, the
cofce plantations of the Shiva Rai Hills near Salem, the sandal wood, pepper, and
cardamoma of certain localities on the Malabar coast, the Teak Forests of the same
coast, the Pearl Fishery at Tutikorin, and the Iron Works at Bépur, deserve most
attention from those who are disposed to occupy themselves with the resources of
the Presidency.
The Uhiqf Public Works are the railroad in progress to Bengalfir, under which
may be noticed the fine stone bridge across the Ponnar at Trivellam, near Arcot;
Anakatt across the Godavari at Dauleshwaram in the Rajamahéndri Collectorate;
the Anakatt across the Krishna river at Baizwada in the Guntfir Collectorate;
the Grand Anakatt of the Kavéri, 10 m. E. of Tricbinapalli; Colonel Cotton’:
Anakatta, called also the Upper and Lower Anakatt, near the same place;
the Bridges between Tanjfrr and Triviér, and that erected by Captain Lawford
across the Kavéri on the high road from Trichinapalli to Madras, consisting of 32
elliptic arches, each with a span of 49 ft.; also the bridge erected by the same
officer on the same road across the Kolerun,—this truly noble bridge is half-a-mile
in length, and has 32 elliptic arches, each with a span of 60 ft.; it cost £15,000 :
and the Great Tanks, of which the following are the most remarkable specimens :—
The triangilar Lingamprithi tank in the Rajamahéndri Collectorate, 2% m. long
and 1 broad at base, constructed 170 years ago by a Zamindar of Peddapur; the
Bapétla tank in Guntfir, 8 m. in circumference ; the Bhusrapatanam tank, 13 m.
in circumference; that of Gurgi, 12 m. ; those of Shengamnalla and Dharmaveram,
each 11 m. in circumference ; and that of Daroji, 9 m., in the Ballari Collect/crate.
The Kavéripak tank, 10 m. E. of Arcot, the dam of which is 4 m. long; that of


12 ARCHITECTURAL TOUR. Sect. I.
Chambrambákam, in the same Collectorate, 20 m. in circumference, and watering
68 flourishing villages; and the Wiranam tank, also in the same Collectorate, which
is the largest in S. India, its band or dam being 12 m. in length. This last tank
is, however, both as to supply of water and embankment, not in good order.
The magnificent barracks at Trimalgadi, the new cantonment at Sikandarābād,
which cost about £120,000; and those at Jakatalla, near Kunár, on the Nilgiris,
which cost £140,000, especially deserve notice.
5. ARCHITECTURAL TOUR.
MADRAs To RAMNAD AND MADURA AND BACK BY SALEM AND ARNí.
815 M. 4 F. 40 DAYS.
DAYS.
PRINCIPAL PLACES. M. F. Arr. Dep.
Madras.
Sadras (7 Pagodas) ......................................... ....... 40 4 1 3
Pondicheri............. .... 88 1 3 5
Kudalar............................................................... 100 5 5 6
Chelambram (Pagoda, and Porto Novo and Devikota, time
allowing) ......................................................... 125 0 7 9
Kumbhakonam (Pagoda and Lower Anakatt) ............... 172 6 10 11
Tiruvadiár (Tanjar and 4 bridges on road thither) .... 1933 11 13
Kovalidi (Grand Anakatt) ....................................... 213 6 13 14
Trichinápalli (Fort, Pagodas of Shrirangam, Upper Anakatt) 2252 14 17
Tirupatiar (Pudukóta, capital of Tondiman Rājā) ......... 277 6 18 19
Râmnád (Pagodas] ................................................ 339 4 20 21
Rāmeshwaram (Pagoda).......................................... 376 7 22 23
Madura (Pagodas, Palace and Choultry of Trimal Naik)... 482 3 24 27
Dindigal (Fort, Pagoda).......................................... 522 2 28 29
Kárðr (Station) ................................................... 567 5 29 30
Namkal (Fort) ....... • * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 588 5 30 31
Salem (Station, Shiva Rai Hills) .............................. 620 1 31 35
Arni (Fort) .............................. ..... 732 5 36 38
Conjeveram (Pagodas)... ..... 768 2 38 39
Madras ...... • * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 815 4 40
By proceeding to Madura direct from Trichinápalli 6 days may be saved, and
the route may be still further reduced 5 days by going direct from Trichinápalli to
Salem, and a very interesting tour will still be made, sufficient to give the traveller
a good acquaintance with the best structures of the Hindås.
PICTURESQUE TOURS.
MADRAs To BENGALöR BY SERINGAPATAM, MAISGR (MYSoRE), KURG, AND THE
NíLGIRI HILLs, RETURNING BY KoIMBATUR AND SALEM, 943 M. 5 F.
PRINCIPAI, PLACES. M. F. A: *:
Rājā Chattram (Conjeveram Pagodas) ........................ 39 6 1 2
Arcot (Fort and Station)...................... • ... 70 5 3 4
Wélür (Fort and Station)..................... ..................... 84 3 4 5


Madras. PICTURESQUE TOURS. 13
- 42 DAYS.
PRINCIPAL PLACEs. M. F. Arr, Dep.
Hosar (Remount Depót)............................. •- 188 3 6 7
Bengalur (Station) ................................................ 212 6 7 8
Shiva Samudram (Falls of the Kávéri)........................ 290 0 9 10
Maisar (Seringapatam) .................... - 329 7 10 12
Hunsór (Government Farm) ................... 357 2 12 13
Merkárà (Picturesque Scenery of Kurg) .... 403 0 14 15
Kannanar ........................................ ............ 4757 16 17
Utakamand (Nilgiri Hills)...................................... 605 1 19 27
Koimbatúr (Pagodas, tobacco and cotton culture, also
Animallé Hills)...... •- - - - - - - - - •- 652 3 28 33
Salem (Shiva Rai Hills, coffee plantations, and Indian steel
manufacture) ................................................... 751 0 34 38
Arni (Fort) ......................................................... 863 4 40 41
Madras ............................................................... 943 5 42
By going direct from Maisar to Utakamand, and leaving out the Kurg country,
this tour may be shortened 6 days.
COAST OF MALABAR AND KANARA.
A tour along this coast may be made in a palanqueen or on horseback; or a
native vessel may be hired for from £10 to £15 a month, and the chief places con-
veniently visited. The names of the principal places worthy of a visit are as
follows, in their order from S. to N.:—
Cochin (Jew Colony, Animallé Hills). Mangalár (Pagodas).
Kalikodu (Calicut). Karikal (Jain Temple and Gigantic
Statue).
Mahe and Tellicheri (French Settle- Barkar (Ruined Temples).
ment).
Bépur (Iron Works). Kondapur (Fishery).
Kannanür (Cantonment). Honawar (Falls of Gerseppa).


14 Sect. I. Madras.

CENTRE DIVISION.
Preluninary Information.
1. BOUNDARIES AND Gnnnnsn Asraer or run DIVISION—SUB-DIVISIONS AND
Omar TowNs.—2. HISTORICAL SK1a'ro1{—CAsr1~‘.s—EM1>LoYMnN'rs or run
Nsrrvns.
1. BOUNDARIES AND GENERAL ASPECT OF THE DIVISION—-SUB-DIVISIONS AND
CHIEF TOWNS.
This division, l 'ng between 11° 30’ and 16° 30’ N. lat., and 78° 30' and 81“
E. long. is in lengthla out 400 miles, and in breadth from 50 to 100 miles. The
river Krishna bounds it on the N., and separates it from the Collectorate of
Maehlipatanam; while the Kolerun branch of the Kavéri forms its S. limit, and
divides it from Trichinapalli and Tanjur. On the W. it borders on Salem,
Kada a, and the Nizam’s territory, and on the E. it is washed by the ocean.
T e general aspect of the country towards the coast is low and sandiy, with
occasional patches of stunted jungle and lon lines of cocoa nut and almyra
trees. Inland the soil is richer and more pro uctive, the inferior kind being red
and avelly, and the best land dark loam.
here is a gradual rise towards the W., until the scattered hills, growing more
numerous, form a continuous line with the E. Ghats, which separate N ellur from
Kada .
T e Ponnar (or Pennar) and Pfilér rivers divide this whole extent of country
into three nearly equal portions.
The Sub-Divisions of the Collectorates comprised in this division and their
6'In'ef Towns are as follows :—
ormrfia (nzcnusrvn or run 1111.1. msrnror or PALNXD).
Ta-luks or Sub-dlvlsions from N.W. chm» Towns; Distance Distance
and N. to S. and S.E. from Madras. from Guutflr.
1 Timmarakota Timrnarakota 78
2 Dachépalli Dachépalli 49
3 Kondavid or Kondur Kondavid 14
4 Mangalagadi Mangalagadi 12
5 Guntur Guntur 247 ,,
6 Répalli Répalli ' 29
7 Mfirutflr Marutfir 35
8 Sattinapalli Sattinapalli 21
9 Prattepad or Parlapadu Prattep ad 12
10 Innakonda or Vinukonda. Vinnkonda 50
1 1 N arsaravupét Narsaravupét 27
12 Ponnur Ponnur 11
13 Kamalpad or Kurapad Krosfir 26
14 Bapétla Bapétla 32
' There are no direct routes from Madras to most of the chief towns above mentioned. It
will be necessary for travellers, nearly in all eases, to go to the chief town of the District
first. and then wend their way to the place to which they wish to go.


Centre Div. SUB-DIVISIONS AND CHIEF TOWNS. 15
NELLóR.
*#£ons from chief Towns. ...#. "'.
1 Chendalar Addinki 95
2 Inámanamellūr Inámanamellar 82
3 Wangavolu (Ongole) Wangavolu 77
4 Davagudür Ponnalar 75
5 Badapudi Kandukür 53
6 Saidapur Saidapur 25
7 Wudiargadi Wudiargadi 36
8 Káligadi Káligadi 36
9 Ravar Devarayapatti 40
10 Gundavolu Rapur 33
11 Punalatalpur Todaru 13
12 Kavalli Kavalli 33
13 Sangam Sangam 20
14 Talamanchi Allór 17
15 Nellar Nellūr 108 55
16 Köta Köta 28
17 Sarvapalli Gudór 23
CHENGALPATT.
Táluks or Sub-divisions. Chief Towns. tro's. ":
1 Nayár Ponnäri 20 60
2 Peddapalliam Tiruvallúr 30 35
3 Punamalli Punamalli 13 28
4 Saidapét Saidapét 7 30
5 Tiruparar Tiruparar 28 15
6 Monimangalam Shri Perumbudür 26 22
7 Chengalpatt Tirukákshikonam 44 8
8 Kanchiveram (Conjeveram) Kánchiveram 46 22
9 Uttaramallar Uttaramallúr 54 18
10 Karungali Madrantikam 51 15
MADRAS COLLECTORATE.
Sub-divisions.
1 Muttial Pét 9 Wepe
2 Peddu Naik's Pét } Black Town 10 #aam
3 Chintádripét 11 Nadumbare
4 St. Thomé 12 Chetpatt
5 Triplicane - 13 Perumbúr
6 Komaléshwaram Kovil 14 Vaisarpádi
7 Nangambákam 15 Erungundam
8 Elambúr 16 Tondiarpét
(See under Madras for explanation of names).
N. ARCOT,
Tāluks or Sub-divisions. Chief Towns. f'#'s. #.
1 Chittúr Chittúr 98 29
2 Tirupati Tirupati 80 67
3 Kávéripák Wālājāhpét 42 36
4 Sholingad Sholingad 62 15
5 Tiruvelam Tiruvelam 78 8


16 HISTORICAL SKETCH. Sect. I. Madras.
Tāluks or Sub-divisions. Chief Towns. "'. f't.
6 Sátgad Guriattam 104 34
7 Kadapanattam Palmanér 124 54
8 Arcot Arcot 70 25
9 Velar Vélar 84 14
10 Tiruvatür Tiruvatür 65 25
11 Polar Polar 96 34
12 Wandiwash Wandiwash 72 38
13 Satwgid Nägalapuram 42 50
14 Penmarri Penmarri 88 36
15 Venkatagadi Kót Palmanér 124 54*
S. ARCOT.
Taluks or Sub-divisions. Chief Towns. no'. n:#ar.
1 Tindevanam Tindevanam . 76 40
2 Tiruvadi Tiruvadi 110 14
3 Willapuram Willapuram 98 28
4 Bhawangadi Bhawangadi 124 22
5 Manārgadi Manárgadi 140 37
6 Chelambram Chelambram 129 24
7 Trinomalli Trinomalli ** 70
8 Verdachelam Verdachelam ** 37
9 Ellavans(ir Ellavans(ir 75 48
10 Tirukallur Tirukallar 35 46
11 Kallakurchi Kallakurchi » 66
12 Chaitpét Chaitpét ** 72
13 Gadalar (Cuddalore) Manjakuppamt or New Town 3
The distances given above from Madras cannot be depended upon, as they vary
according to the route that may be taken to reach the place.
2. HISTORICAL SKETCH-CASTES-EMPLOYMENTS OF THE NATIVES.
Of this Division the Collectorate of Chengalpatt has been longest in the pos-
session of the English, having been ceded to them by the Nüwab of Arcot in
1763, in return for services rendered to him; and his grant was confirmed by a
sanad or imperial rescript from the King of Delhi in 1765. Previous to this, the
ossessions of the Company were confined to the narrow slip which is now covered
# the City of Madras and its suburbs, forming the Madras Collectorate. Chen-
alpatt was formerly called the 'Jagir’ or Fief, a name which is still often used.
# Company at first preferred leasing their new acquisition to the Nüwab to
taking charge of it themselves, which they did not do till 1780. In that year,
and previously in 1768, it was desolated with fire and sword, by Haidar 'Ali. In
1783, the Company let it out in 14 large farms, on leases of 9 years; and in the
following year they appointed a Resident to superintend the revenue. In 1786 a
superintendent was appointed, who shortly after assumed the sole charge; but
2 years after the Jágir was divided into 2 Collectorates, and next year into 3, when
the office of superintendent was abolished. In the same year (1789) the land was
re-let in smaller portions. In Nov., 1794, Mr. Lionel Place was appointed sole
* The Kadapamattam and VenkatagadiTāluks are under the same Tahsildár; hence the
same town is the chief town of both.
t Manjakuppam was formerly the chief town of the Táluk; but Cuddalore is now the resi-
dence of the principal officers.


Centre Div. cAs'rns—nm>LoYMENrs or run NATIVES. 17
assessment was introduce and the Collcctorate was divided into 64 Mutas or
estates, paying from 7,000 to 16,000rs. each per annum. All these were subse-
uently bought up by Government, the proprietors having fallen into arrears, so
t at the s 'stem is now that of ryotwar. T e ancient Tamil Mirasi tenure exists
here, as a so in N. and S. Arcot, but not so fully as in Tanj fir. The propnetors of
such lands have exemptions from assessment, and also en_]oy certain fees from the
other cultivators.
N. and S. Arcot were acquired by the Company with the rest of the Karnatak,
on the death of Umdatu ’l-Umara, the last reigning N niwab, who expired on the
15th of Jul , 1801. His eldest son, Ali Husain, was set aside, and the title of
N riwab co erred on another son, Azimu-’d-daulat, on condition of his ceding his
territories. At that time there were in N. Arcot several independent vassals,
whose fiefs have all lapsed, with the exception of Kallfir and Pulicherla, in the
Chandra di Taluk; of Venkatagadi, Tumba, and N argrmti, in that of Chittur;
and of Iggrkambaddi and K1-ishnapuram near Tirupati, which last were granted
500 years ago for protecting the pa oda of Tirupati and the pil ims. The
Chittfir Palegars, or barons, claim E ' t e Rajas of
collector, and introduced great reforms and improvements. In 1802 a permanent
I
escent from functionaries o
Vijayanagar. A’rni is also a fief in the family of a Maratha Brahman. There
are also 2 great Zamindaris of Kalastri art of which is in N ellfir) and Kavet-
nagar, aymg 190,393, and 187,663rs. tri ute respectively.
N el fir was ceded to the English by the Niiwab of the Karnatak at the same
time as Arcot. There are in it three eat Zaminda.ris—Venkata adi, Chundi,
and Mutialpad. The portion of the Kfi astri barony which is in Ne fir, contains
copper mines, which were worked from 1801-1806.
Guntfir, formerly called Murtazanagar, was granted to the Company bythe
sovereign of Delhi, in 1765, in a decree obtained by Clive, then governor of
Bengal. The Madras Government, however, ceded it as a Jagir to Basalat Jang,
elder brother of the N izam, contrary to the wishes of the Supreme Government,
who restored it to the Nizam in 1780, and thus detached him from an alliance
with Haidar ’Ali. Basalat Jang died in 1782, and in 1788 the Company took
possession of the Collectorate. The Bengal revenue system was introduced in
1801. In 1816 the Pindaris made a most destructive i.nroad into Guntfir, in
which they plundered 339 villages, killed 182 ersons, wounded 605, and tortured
in different ways 3,603. Guntfir was former y reckoned one of the N. Sarkars,
and formed part of the ancient Kalinga, as did Nellur. The other Collectorates
of the C. Division were the ancient Dravida.
The early history of these provinces is veiled in obscurity. Guntfir and Nellfir
were, it is supposed, anciently included in the rovince of Andhra (see N. Div.)
The rest of the Centre Division formed part o the ancient province of Drévida
Proper. Wilks states that this territory was ruled before the Christian era by the
Chalukia dynasty, to which the Kadamba succeeded, and this line of princes,
again, terminated in the 2nd century, s.n. The next rulers of this province
a pear to have been the Rajas of Kanchi or Conjeveram, who were conquered by
e Chola Princes about the 8th centur . In the 15th century the country became
sub'ect to the Rajas of Vija anagar, w ose empire was crushed by the confederate
M ammadan kings of the Dakhan, at the fatal battle of Tellikota in 1564, when
Ram Rife, the 7th monarch of the house of N arsingh, with all his principal
oflicers, ell. His descendants, however, though driven from their possessions
near the Tunga Bhadra, continued to maintain themselves with varyin fortune in
the districts which form the present Centre Division of the Madras residency.
They fixed their head-quarters sometimes at Chandra adi, sometimes at Vélur,
and again at Chengalpatt, until the Marfithas—an , shortly afterwards, the
Europeans-came upon the stage.


18 EMPLOYMENTS OF THE NATIVES. Sect. I.
The bulk of the population in this Division consists of the descendants of the
Aboriginal Ugrian race, on which, in remote ages, the pure Hindás or Aryans
grafted themselves. Some tribes of this type still exist in their original savage
state, differing little from the beasts of the forests. Such are the Chenchis, near
the Pallikat lake. They have high cheek bones, flat noses, and altogether a
£ physiognomy. They go nearly in a state of nudity, and have no know-
ledge of a £ or belief in a future state.
Other castes are such as are usually met with in other parts of India, the great
bulk of the people being Hinda, and a very small portion Muhammadans. The
jealousy of caste is carried to a great height, particularly of those 2 sections of
traders and artificers called the right-hand and left-hand castes (See Buchanan,
vol. i., p. 77). Even of late years blood has been shed in these caste disputes;
and at W: on one occasion so serious an outbreak took place on this account
that only European troops and artillery could stop the struggle.


O


18
The b
Aborigin:
grafted th
state, diff
the Palli
Scythian
ledge of
Other
bulk of t
jealousy
traders al
vol. i., p.
and at
that only


Madras.
19
ROUTE 1.-LONDON TO MADRAs.
1: O U TES.
ROUTE 1.
I/ONDON TO MADRAS.
SouTHAMPTON. To MADRAs.— The
journey from England to Madras occupies
about 40 days.-See Introduction.
MADRAS–1. Arrival at Madra:-
2. Servants.-3. Hotels at Madras–
Madras Club.–4. Plan of Madras.—
5. Sights of Madras–Fort St. George
-Arsenal–St. Andrew's Church—
The Mint—Statue of Sir T. Munro–
Government House – Palace of the
INüwdb—University and Central Mu-
seum — Cathedral – St. Thomas’s
Mount—List of Churches and In-
stitutions.
Madras.—All writers agree that a
worse site was never chosen for a great
city than in the case of Madras. The
roadstead is open to all winds, except
from the west; and, in case of a sudden
gale, there is no security for vessels,
save in slipping their cables and putting
out to sea. There is no navigable river
to bring down the wealth of the in-
terior; the soil, a sandy clay, is but
moderately productive; and the heat is
so intense that, during the hottest
months, the thermometer, in a well-
appointed room, often rises to 96°. Yet,
so attractive is every place in which
Government centres, that though Fort
St. George, as the Fort of Madras (said
by some to be Mandir-ráj, “Central
government,” but prop. £ of
unknown etymology,) is called, dates no
* The 4 of Chandragadi, a descendant
of the Rájás of Bijanagar, who granted the
English permission to remove to Madras, and
to erect a fort there, expressly stipulated that
the new town was to be called by his name,
Shri-Ranga-Răid-patanam; but the local go-
vernor or Naik, Damarla Venkatadrí, through
whose instrumentality the grant had been
procured, had previously, intimated that, he
would have the new settlement founded in
the name of his father, Chennappa; and this
earlier than 1639 A.D.; and the English,
under their Factory Chief, Mr. Francis
Day, then first removed thither from
Armagon,f 36 m. to the N. of Pulicat,
—which had been their earliest settlement
on the coast of Coromandel (prop. Chola-
mandal, “Territory of the Cholas,” or
from Cholum, a kind of grain “Holcus
Saccharatus”),f the population had,
notwithstanding, risen in a century to a-
quarter of a million, and is now officially
given at 720,000.
1. Arrival at Madras.—The danger
of crossing the surf has, no doubt, been
somewhat exaggerated. In calm wea-
ther this foaming barrier may be passed
in the massulah, § or “fishing-boat,”
without risk. But when a red and
white chequered flag is hoisted at the
Master attendant's flagstaff (as it is
during storms, and from the 15th Oct.,
when the N.E. Monsoon commences,
name, # probably been given before the
execution of the, Royal grant, was never
superseded, and Chennapatanam, “the city of
Chennappa,” is the word still in general use
among the natives in speaking of Madras.
f The word Armagon, itself is properly Ar-
mogam (Tamil dr, “six,” and mogam, for Skr.
Tmukham, “face”), the “six-faced,” an epithet
of Kártikeya, the God of War; from whom
many Hindús are named Shanmogam, “Six-
faced.” The name Armagon was given by the
English to Durgarázápatanam, a small port
36 m; N. of Pulicat, when they began to trade
in 1625. They gave it this name in honour of
Armogam Mudeliár, the chief man of the
locality.
# Such is the popular etymology;
+ •
real origin of the word £
lows:-There is a small fishing village a few
miles S. of Pulicat, called Kari-manal, “black
sand,” which to this day is called in advertise-
ments “Coromandel.” The Dutch who first
landed at this village, corrupted the word,
and by a strange fate this insignificant place
has given a name to the whole coast.
§ These boats are made of planks sewed to-
gether with coir twine, without any nails or
iron clamps. Thus constructed, they yield to
the force # the 'a' # # #
being broken up by eir elasticity.
word massulah is derived from machhli, “a
fish.”
but the
is as fol-


20
Sect. I.
ROUTE 1.—MADRAs—SERVANTs—HOTELs.
till the end of Dec.)," as a warning not
to cross, those who are, nevertheless,
resolved to make the attempt, must pre-
pare for some trial of their nerves. Cap-
tains of ships, and others whose busi-
ness is urgent, do often come through,
even when the warning flag is flying,
and not unfrequently bring with them
boxes and other lumber, by which the
danger is much increased. In those
cases the adventurous massulah is fol-
lowed by one or more catamarans (the
word is derived from the Tamil words
kadu, “forest,” and maram, “tree,”
“a log from the jungle;” or kattu, “to
tie,” and maram, “tree”), a sort of raft,
consisting of three logs tied together,
with three spreaders and cross lashings.
The logs are from 20 to 25 ft. in length,
and 25 to 33 ft. in breadth. The centre
log is much the largest, with a curved
surface at the fore end, which finishes
upwards to a point. The side logs are
similar in form, but smaller, havin
their sides straight and fitted to the
centre log. There is also a smaller
catamaran, consisting of a single log
about 8 ft. long. These rafts have a
small sail, and are paddled by one or
two men, who speculate on the chance
of a reward in case of rescuing the vic-
tims of an upset. In fine weather the
surf breaks about 300 ft. from the shore,
in squally weather about 450 ft., but
during gales from the E. nearly 1,000
ft. In calm weather the surf wave is
about 3 ft. high, in squally about 6 ft.,
in storms 14 ft." It is more dangerous
to come on shore in a heavy surf than
to go off to sea, as it is more difficult to
keep the boat end on. There are two
lines of surf between which it is pos-
sible for a boat to keep its position
without crossing either barrier, The
outer wave, called the male surf, is
much the more formidable; and when
the storm-flag is up, boatmen sometimes
wait many minutes, watching a good
opportunity to pull in. It is then that
they make a demand for a douceur,
which, under the unpleasant circum-
stances of the case, is but seldom re-
fused. The great art is to ride in on
* During this period sea insurances are
doubled.
one wave, keeping the boat straight,
and then pull away from its successor,
so as to avoid being £, in which
case the boat would be inevitably
swamped. Nor is the result less dis-
astrous should the boat turn broadside
on, for then, too, it is certain to be
struck and overset. In such a catas-
trophe there would be but small chance
of escape for European passengers, for
only the most consummate skill in
swimming could save life, even were
the ever-watchful sharks eluded. The
rowers of the catamarans, indeed, are
continually washed off and regain their
logs, but their powers of natation are
matchless, and their dark skin does not
so readily betray them to the shark:
yet, in spite of these advantages, they
often perish, and of late, especially,
several fatal cases have occurred.
soon as the boat is resigned to the surf,
it is hurried along with great rapidity,
and at last tossed up astern, till it is
almost perpendicular. The sensation is
like that experienced when taking a leap
on horseback. The instant the first
surf has broken, the boatmen pull
furiously to escape the next, shouting
“Hillea, hillea,” “Pull, pull.” Some-
times their cry is “Javier, Javier,” an
appeal to the celebrated St. Xavier, who
visited the fishermen all along this coast,
from Cape Komorin, converted many,
and is still revered by them. The
second surf carries the boat to the
shore, and at such stormy times the
prow impinges with great force, so as
not rarely to split, and bestow more
water than is pleasant on those about
to land. A number of men, however,
stand ready to catch the boat and drag
it clear of the reflux, and of danger
from the next surf.
2. Servants.– As soon as landed,
strangers are surrounded by a tribe of
most importunate native servants of all
kinds, who keep up a distracting hubbub
of broken English, to which it is a
pitiable thing to listen. Servants who
speak English may be hired for 10rs, a
month — palankeen bearers 6rs. a
month—per man. -
3. Hotels at Madras.—The best thing,
of course, to be done, if no friends come


_~
Madras.
to meet one, is to get into a alankeen
and be carried to the club, if a achelor ;
or, if travelling with ladies, to some
friend's house. There are, indeed, hotels
which may be repaired to as a dernier
ressort. These are Valu Mudeliar's
Family Hotel, Myrtle Grove House,
near the Club, which is tolerable; Iyah
Mudeliars (The Elphinstone) 35, Mount
Road; and the Clarendon Hotel, more
indifferent, but conveniently situated for
travellers on the Esplanade, near the
beach and Black Town. But it cannot
be too often repeated that, to one igno-
rant of the langua es and customs of
the country, or to t e lover of comfort,
cleanliness, and economy, a friend's
house is the best resting-place in India.
The Madras Club is situated near the
Mount Road, in the district of Pudupak,
about 2% m. from the landing-place. It
was founded in 1832, and is admirably
managed. It possesses a good library,
which is also well supplied with periodi-
cals, and the charges for living are
moderate. Members of the Bengal and
Bombay clubs, are de facto honorary
members of the Madras Club, and vice
verse. Strangers and travellers who
have friends in the Club can easily se-
cure their election through their inter-
vention. The accounts of honorary
members are settled weekly. There are
sleeping apartments for bachelors, and a
separate building for married people has
been pro osed. The charge for a bed-
room an bath-room is ha f a rupee a-
day, and the rooms must be vacated
after a month if required by other and
more recent visitors; but this is not
likely to happen. Daily expenses need
not exceed from 4 to 7 rupees (8.2. to 14.2.)
a head. The Club is open from 6 a.m.
to 12 p.m.
4. Plan of Madras.—Madras, with
its numerous suburbs, now extends from
N. to S. along the coast, from the vil-
la e of Attapolam to the mouth of the
Adyar river, nearly 9 miles, with an
average breadth of 3% miles. The flag-
stalf of the Fort is by the best calcula-
tions made to be in N. lat. 13° 4', and
E. long. 80° 16' 45", and may be taken
as the centre of the ground built over
from N. to S. A little to the N. of it
noun: l.-—MADRAS—CLUB—-PLAN.

21
is the landing-place, op osite to a line
of buildings well finishe , having colon-
nades to the upper stories, supported on
arched bases, and plastered with shell
mortar, forming a hard, smooth, and
polished surface, resembling white mar-
le when recently laid on. Of these the
following are the principal, succeeding
each other in a line from S. to N. :—-
Messrs. Parry and Co.; Granary; Bain-
bridge and Co.; Arbuthnot and C0.;
Su reme Court; Sea Custom House;
an Town Police. Behind these build-
ings is the most populous part of Ma-
dras, extending about 1;1;m. in a W.
direction, and a mile N. and S., called
Black Town. This is bounded to the
\V. by Cochrane's (iormerly Lord
Clive's) canal on whic a steamer is
now established , and is enclosed on the
N. and VV. b a strong wall, once forti-
fied. Still arther to the N. lie the
suburban villa es of Ra apu.ram,* Atta-
puram, and Tgandiavu u; and beyond
Cochrane’s canal to the W. are the dis-
tricts called Vepery (from Skr. Vydpdr,
“ trade,” as “the trader's resort,”) and
Parsawakam, and to the N.W. of these,
and separated from them by a canal, are
the vil ages of Vasarvalli and Perumbflr,
in each of which is a large tank named
after the village. To the S.W. of the
Fort is a piece of ground about § of a.
mile long, and half-a-mile broad, which,
as being surrounded by the Kfiam river,
is called the Island. Still further to
the S. the Mussulman quarter, Tripli-
cane (prop. Tiru-valli-kedi, “the lake
of the sacred lamp,” a Tamil name),
and the Chcpak Gardens, where is the
palace of the former Niiwabs of the
Karnatak, a large building with some
good rooms. Close to this, in a N.\V.
direction, is Government House; and
still further W. are the districts of
Chintadripét and Egmore (formerly
Ellembfir, and prop in Tamil, Yalam-
bzir), to the \V. of which is a large
tank, called the Spur tank. W. of
Triplicane lie the districts of Pfidupak
* Rayi. in 'l‘1imn., signifies " a stone ;” hence
ltdya pa, a commonname for men among
Tamii) Christians, equivalent to “Peter.'
Hence Roi]/appa-puram, “Peter's town ;" the
Catholic Church there being Rviyappa-kovil
" St. Peter's Church.”


22
Sect. I .
ROUTE 1.—MADB.AS—PLAN, ETC.
“New Town” and Nam ambékam, sepa-
rated from Egmore an Chetpatt by the
Kfiam river. S. of Tri licane is the
district Kishnahpéta, an WV. of this
Roya éta and Parcheri (“Place of the
Paria s"); and S. of these, St. Thome,
Quibble (kovil, “a church” in Tamil)
Island, and Alvfirpéta (Alvar, 12 saints
adored by the worshippers of Vishnu),
bounded finally on the S. by the Adyar
river, and on the W. by the N angam-
bakam tank and Long tank, the latter
2 m. long from N. to S., ande m. broad,
while to the extreme S.\V. is the Ar-
tillery Station, called the Mount, more
than 8 m. from the Fort. From this
cantonment to the Fort runs a fine road,
called the Mount Road, lined with
beautiful villas along most of its course,
and shaded b magnificent banyan and
tulip trees. he Adyar river to the S.,
the Nangarnbakam tank to the \V., and
the village of Tondiarpét to the N. form
the limits of the district controlled by
the Supreme Court of Judicature and of
the Madras Collectorate. The A'bkari
or Liquor Revenue limits extend 8 in.
beyond this boundary, and the revenue
from this item exceeds £60,000 a-year,
and forms about 1 moiety of the revenue
of the Madras Collectorate. Within
these limits no one can sell arrack with-
out a Government license. The licenses
are put up to auction, and those who
offer to take most arrack, specifying the
quantity per day, obtain them. Govern-
ment imports Colombo arrack at 10a.
per gal. and sells it at 3r. 6a. 10p. It
manufactures pat_t_a or bark arrack at
8a. per gal. and sells it at 2r. 15a. llp.
5. Sights of Madras.—The sights of
Madras are not numerous, and may very
well be exhausted in 4 days. The first
evening may be spent in a survey of Fort
St. George, which is not devoi of his-
toric recollections. Hcre, on the 10th
of Sep., 1746, M. de la Bourdonnais
marched in and received the surrendered
keys in the name of the French King,
to be restored once more to the English,
by the treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle. Here
again, on the 14th of Dec., 1758, a
French besieging army made its ap-
earance under M. Lally; to retreat,
afiled and discomfited, on the 16th of

Feb., 1759, leaving behind them 52
pieces of cannon, and many of their
wounded. The enemy then made their
approaches on the l\. side, and their
principal battery, called Lally’s, after
their general, must have been somewhere
near where the house of Parry and Co.
now stands, as it was close to the beach,
and about 580 yards from the Fort.
Another battery was at the native Bury-
ing-ground in Black Town, and a third
about 400 yards to the S.W. Here
again, in April, 1769, while the English
forces were far away, were suddenly be-
held the cavalryof Haidar ’Ali, who dic-
tated to the governor the terms on which
he would spare the defcnceless territory.
Once more, on the 10th of Aug., 1780,
and again in J an., 1792, the Maisfir
horsemen alarmed the garrison of
Madras. Here, in Writers’ Buildings,
Bob Clive, an idle and discontented
clerk, twice snapped a pistol at his
own head. From this Fort, too, he
marched to his earliest tr-ium hs, and
hence went forth the host whic , on the
4th of M ay, 1799, overthrew the streng-
hold of Tipti. In shape, the Fort is an
irregular polygon, approaching to a semi-
circle, of which the sea-face is nearly a
diameter running N. and S., and pre-
senting a clear front on that side of 500
yards. The sea flows to within a few
ards of the ram arts, which are fenced
y an artificial arrier of stone work
from the destructive violence of the
surf and tides. The foundation of the
works on the sea-face contains a series
of cisterns, which are filled with fresh
water from the “Seven wells” at the
N. extremity of Black Town. These
wells were originally 10 in number, but
onl 2 are now in use, the others being
cho ed up. These two yield 264,000
gals. in 24 hours. The fortifications on
the land side consist of three full and
two demi bastions, which latter rest on
the line wall which runs en cre'mm'lle're
along the beach. The curtains are
covered by cavaliers and lunettes. The
ditch is wet except between the curtain
and ravelin of the north face, which are
connected by a strong caponiére, while
the curtain is covered by a tmaille. The
connterscarp is faced with a revetment,


Madras.
23
ROUTE 1.-MADRAS–ARSENAL-LIGHTHOUSE.
and defended by a palisaded covert way
and a glacis, which is mined. Within
the Fort is a terraced two-storied bar-
rack for European troops, running N.
and S., at the N. and W. extremity of
the Fort; the upper story being occupied
by the officers, the lower by the men.
In this barrack there is said to be ac-
commodation for 1,000 men. Thegar-
rison for years has consisted of 1 regt.
of H.M. Infantry and 2 companies of
Artillery. Outside the Fort there are
usually 3 regts. Native Infantry sta-
tioned at Madras, one of which is the
Veteran Battalion in Black Town. Of
the other 2 native corps one is hutted at
Vepery, the other at Perambar. Fort
St. George also contains the following
Government offices: the Council House,
where the members of the Government
meet for the transaction of business;
Adjutant-General's Office; Quarter-
Master General's Office; Military Au-
ditor-General’s Office; the Accountant-
General's Office, in Charles and James
AStreet; the Board of Revenue, Old Ex-
change; Civil Auditor's Office, St. Thomé
Street; General Treasury, Portuguese
Square; Stamp Office, St. Thomé Street;
Stationery Office, Arsenal, and various
Military offices.
The Arsenal is well stocked and
adorned with 2 of Tipú's guns, the
muzzles of which are carved to repre-
sent a tiger's head. St. Mary's Church
is nearly a century old, and possesses
some good monuments, particularly one,
executed by Bacon for the E. I. Com-
pany, to the Missionary Schwartz, who
was buried, however, at Tanjar. In
the centre of the Fort, on the parade-
ground facing the Council House, is a
marble statue of Lord Cornwallis, under
a stone £ It stands upon a cir-
cular pedestal, on which is sculptured,
in alto rilievo, the surrender of Tipu's
children. After visiting the Fort, the
fine Light-house may be inspected. It
stands on the Esplanade, close to the N.
face of the Fort, and is 128 ft. above
the level of the sea. Its light, one of
the most brilliant in the world, is a
flashing one, the duration of the flash
being to that of the dark interval as 2
to 3, and was first shown on the 1st of
Jan., 1841. It is exhibited from the
top of a Doric column of granite,
standing on a cubic pedestal, also of
granite, with massive steps. The lan-
tern consists of a 12-sided polygon,
framed in gun-metal, with 9 glass and
3 blank faces. The interior diameter
of the lantern is 9.ft., and its height
43 ft. The traveller may then enjo
the sea-breeze for a little, and watc
the surf rolling, if the wind be high, in
thunder to the shore.
Another day may be devoted to St. An-
drew’s Church, the Mint, Black Town,
Government House, the Nuwab's Palace,
and Pacheappa's School (with Branch
Schools at Conjeveram and Chedam-
bram), founded 1842, which has a De-
bating Society attached. The debates
take place once a week, and are nu-
merously attended. Travellers are al-
lowed to be present; the School House
is on the Esplanade.
St. Andrew's, the Scotch Church,
stands about equi-distant from the Club
and the Esplanade, in the angle between
Vepery and Chintádripéta, near the
Kaam river. The first stone of this
fine church was laid on the 6th of April,
1818. The edifice was completed in
about 2 years at a cost of £20,000, and
reflects great credit upon the architect,
Major Fiott de Havilland. The Madras
stucco, or chunam, has been most skil-
fully applied in the interior of the
church, and gives to the pillars all the
whiteness and polish of the finest Parian
marble. The steeple rises to the height
of 1663 ft. above the pavement, and
the whole edifice is remarkable for the
complete snbstitution of masonry for
timber, which would be soon destroyed
# the white ants, Bishop Heber com-
plains that the form of the church is
singular, and injudicious for the purpose
of hearing, though he praises the state-
liness of the structure. The foundation,
however, is the most curious part to the
English traveller, consisting as it does
of wells, which have been formed over
the whole area of the edifice, except in
a space in the centre of about 30 ft. in
diameter. These wells of masonry are
sunk 9 ft., the foundations being raised
133 ft. above them, and the basement


~_
24
being 4 ft. more, making the whole
dept below the pavement 26} ft. In
spite of the nature of the soil—which is,
first, vegetable mould for 10 in.; then
a foot or two of alluvial earth; then 8
or 10 ft. of black, soa y, salt mud; and
then sand, which a ew ft. downwards
becomes a veritable quicksand—these
brick wells, filled with rubble, present a
solid support to the vast superincumbent
weight. These wells, like all others in
the country, are built to a convenient
height above ground, and then made to
subside by scooping the earth from the
basement. As the water rushes in the
men are obliged to work beneath it,
their bodies being completely immersed ;
and it is surprising how long they con-
tinue undcr water. This labor, how-
ever, is so exhausting that they are
obliged to relieve one another unceas-
ingly. The well-diggers are a distinct
caste by themselves, and will not inter-
marry, even with their tank-di ging
brethren. The bridge over the (ram
river, near the church, is called St. An-
drew's bridge, after the church, and was
erected by the same architect in 1817,
at a cost of £8,000.
The ll/[int is situate not far from the
wall, at the N .W. angle of Black Town.
Here some ingenious contrivances, in-
vented by the able manager, Major
Smith, and speciall an instrument for
testin theweighto coins, which gained
one o the great prizes at the Exhibition
of 1851, may be inspected. In aline
with it to the sea are the barracks of
the N. Vet. Bat., Black Town chapel
and school, and the Supreme Court jail;
at the S.E. angle are the Roman Catho-
lic cathedral, Church Mission chapel,
and Armenian church.
Black Town itself lies very low, being
in some places only six inches above the
level of the sea at spring-tides, against
the inroads of which it is rotected by
a strong bulwark of stone. Three broad
streets, running N. and S., intersect the
town, dividing it into four nearly equal
.parts. These streets are well built, and
contain many terraced houses and Eu-
ropean shops. Near the N. wall is the
enclosure known by the name of the
Seven Wells, the water of which is
ROUTE 1 .—MADRAS—MINT—G OVIERNMENT HOUSE.

Sect. I.
highl valued for its purity, which it is
said y sea-faring people, to preserve
for a len th of time at sea. Public
water-wor s have been erected in this
enclosure b Government, and two reser-
voirs have een constructed—one in the
Fort, the other midway between the
Fort and the town, which are dail
filled from the wells by means of metal
pi es The shipping, and all the in-
a itants who choose to send for it, are
supplied from these sources. The purity
and wholesomeness of the water seem
owing to its being filtered through a bed
of fine sand, consisting almost entirely
of quartz, which extends several miles
in length in a N. direction, but is not
more than 300 or 400 yards in breadth
—its depth varyin from 1 to 15 R.
The fine polish of: t e Madras chunam,
or plaster, is obtained by the admixture
of this pure sand with shell lime.
In the centre of the island between
the Fort and the Governor’s garden
stands the bronze equestrian statue qf
S17‘ Munro, by Chantrey, erected by
public subscription at a cost of £9,000.
his able statesman died Governor of
Madras at Pattikonda, in the Ceded
Districts, on the 6th of July, 1827, of
an attack of cholera. His body was in-
terred at Gfiti, where the Madras Go-
vernment erected a stone monument to
his m_emory, and the people of the Ceded
D_1SlZl‘lClZS built a choultry in honor of
him, to which Government added a tank,
and provided an establishment of ser-
vants to keep it in repair.
Governmeat House is much inferior to
the stately viceregal palace at Calcutta,
and even to the smaller but very lea-
sant residence of the Governor of om-
bay at Parell. The house is fronted by
a handsome colonnade and stands in a
ark, at the end of which, on the sea.-
each, is the Marine Villa, where the
Governor resides in the hot weather.
There is one immense banquetting-room
detached from the other rooms and con-
taining some portraits of Coote, Corn-
wallis, Meadows, and other heroes, of
most indifferent execution; and one of
Sir R. Strange, which possesses more
merit. Two good pictures of Sir T. and
V Lady Munro, which were originally here, -P ~


_~
Madras.
have been i'estored to their placesfrom the
College. Any gentleman can attend the
Governor’s public breakfasts, and, by
putting down his name, obtain an inter-
view, if he feels so inclined, with the
Viceroy, when he will probably be in-
vited to dinner. The Governor’s body-
guard are a remarkably fine body of
men, consisting of 2 troo s of 80 men
each, superbly dressed, an commanded
by an officer of the Light Cavalry, as-
sisted by an adjutant from the same
branch of the service. Their canton-
meut is on the island opposite the Go-
vernor’s gardens.
The Palace of the Nhwdb of the Kar-
natak, at Chepak, was formerly visited
by those who wished to see a specimen
of a Muhammadan chieftain’s court in
India. H. H. Amiru‘l-Hind, Walahh,
’Umdatu 'l-’Umai'a, Mu@taru’l- ulk,
Sir£iju’d-Daulah, Qiulam Muhammad
Qhaug Iihan Bahadur, Bahadur -Tang,
the last Nfiwab, died in November,
1855. He was born on the 25th of
Aug., 1824, and installed as Nfiwab on
the 25th of Aug., 1842. By his death
a large pension has reverted to Govern-
ment. The Niiwiibs of the Karnatak
were originally deputies of the Sfibahdar
of the Dakhan, under the Mugl_iul Em-
crors, and their ofiice does not date
om a time earlier than the close of the
17th century, when Aurangzib made
himself master of the Karnatak, which
had previously belonged to the States of
Golkonda and Bijapur, and before that
to the Rajas of Bijanagar. The Darbar,
or reception-room, is large and hand-
some, and adorned with pillars. There
is a picture of Geor e the Fourth as
Prince of Wales, by oppner.
A third day may be given to the
Military Orphan Asylum, the Madras
University, the College, the Observa-
tory, the Horticultural Society’s Gar-
dens, St. Georgc’s Cathedral, and the
Mount.
The Military Mala Orphan Asylum
was founded in 1788, at E ore. It
was here that, in 1789, t e Madras
system, as it has been called, of Educa-
tion was first tried under the English
Government, by Dr. Bell. Thence
it was imported into England, and,
ROUTE l..—--MILITARY ORPH.-KN ASYLUM—UNIVERSI'IY.

25
under Bell and Lancaster, eflected a
very eat alteration in educational es-
tablis ments, being received not only
into the national schools and places of
instruction for the lower classes, but also
into some of the great public schools,
such as Ru by and Charter House. The
whole nove ty consists in employing the
more advanced scholars as monitors to
instruct the younger boys, or those who
have made the least progress.
Madras University stands in Pantheon
Road, in the district of Pudiipéta, close
to St. Andrew’s Bridge, about a mile
from the club. Here are three Euro-
pean professors, and a large establish-
ment of European and native teachers;
and those who wish to test the abilities
of the native students may find ample
means of forming an opinion by inspect-
ing the establishment. It consists of a
College department, a primary and a
high school, of which the first two were
opened in 1833, the latter in 1841. The
College—which has ceased to exist as a
College, though the civilians’ examina-
tions are still held in it—is close to the
S. side of the Kiiam river, in a line
with the Egmore Tank. The library
of the Literary Society-—a branch of
the Royal Asiatic Society—is here.
Amongst the volumes, the Mackenzie
MSS., in upwards of sixt gigantic
folios, contain a large mass o historical
and legendary lore respectin India.
There is also a very beauti ul folio
Virgil; and a portrait of the well-known
French missionary, the Abbé Dubois, in
a native dress, who lived 25 years in
Maistir to little profit, if we may believe
himself. The building likewise contains
the Government Central Museum, where
an admirable collection of the natural
products of the Presidency is exhibited,
which is well worthy of inspection, if
for the marbles alone. It is open to the
public daily, from 6 to 9 a.m., and 12 to
6 p.m. The Observatory, erected in
1793 by Michael Tapping, under the
Court’s orders, is now under the charge
of Captain Jacob, late of the Bombay
Engineers; it is not far from the Col-
lege, and close to the Kfiam river.
About a mile thence, in Mount Road, in
a southerly direction, are the Horticul-
2


‘Z6
Sect. I.
ROUTE l.iTl:[E CA'I‘HEDRAL—LI'I‘TLE MOUNT.
tural Gardens, and St. George's Cathe-
dral, contiguous to each other.
The Cathedral may be ascended for a
general panoramic view of the city and
its environs, and as there are only low
and detached hills for a space of thirty
miles, the prospect is extensive. This
church possesses several monuments by
Chantroy;—one of Bishop Heber re-
presents him in a half-kneeling posture,
in the act of blessing a kneeling Hindu
female. There is also an exquisite figure
by Flaxman to the memory of Arch-
deacon Mously; it represents Religion
in pilgrim arb, with face upturned to
heaven, and holding across. The visitor
may also remark a tasteful device to the
memory of Mr. Chamier, and a slab to
the unfortunate 37th Regiment N.I., the
greater part of which perished in an
unseaworthy transport which was cou-
veying them to China. -
The general hour for Church Service
is 11 a.m., and half- ast 6 p.m. on Sun-
day, and on Wedne ay half-past 6 p.m.
and a quarter-past 6 p.m. in winter.
From St. George's to the Little Mount,
where tradition says St. Thomas, the
Apostle of India, was martyred,‘ is a
distance of about two and a half milcs
from the Mount Road, and across the
Adyar river by Marmalongf Bridge.
This mount is a small rocky knoll, with
a Roman Catholic church on it, in the
suburb of Mailapur,1 or “City of
Peacocks," as St. Thomé is called by
the natives. There are some relics here,
exhibited to the pious or the curious.
According to some, the bones of St,
Thomas were interred at this Mount.
-From Marmalong Bridge to the larger
Mount the approach is by a beautiful
' It is now decided that the St. Thomas from
whom the Mount is called. is no other than
St. Thomas aquinas. and that the story of the
martyrdom is pure fiction. though Haber eon-
ceded his belief to it.
1' Properly Mamill-anima, " Our Lady of the
Mangoes.” This bridge is an interesting ob-
ject. _Its extreme length ineludin the cause-
way. is 410 yards. and it has 29 are es.
1 Or, Tamil, Mayiliir. from man/il, " a ea-
cock." 1lr._“ city.” Here again is a trace 0 the
almost universal worship of K_artikéya o_n this
coast. The peacock is the bird on which he
is supposed to ride. _Bome say, however. that
the Jungle round _this suburb. 60 or 70 years
aso, abounded with peacocks, whence the
name


and well-kept road, lined with rows of
the Ficus Indira, or “Banyan Tree,”
forming a beautiful avciiue,—the re-
freshing shade of which enables the
traveller to pass on without suffering
even from the noonda sun. There is a
gradual ascent to the oot of the Mount,
which is an isolated cliff of greenstone
and syenite, about 300 feet in height.
The summit is crowned by an old church,
called the church of “t e Expectation
of the Blessed Virgin,” measuring 109
feet by 78, built by the Po ese in
1547,—-a pictures ue little buil 'ng, the
property of- the oman Catholic Ar-
menians. The view from the top is a
fine one, ranging over the cantonments
and noble parade-ground of the ar-
tillery, and the surrounding district.
About 2000 men have been quartered
here on an average. The native popu-
lation exceeds 20,000. The traveller
may remark at the Mount the Adansonia
digitata, a native of Senegal, which
grows in Africa to the enormous size of
100 feet in girth. There is one specimen.
the circumference of which
is 30 feet. A curious account of the
destruction of a tree of the same species
at Kolaba, in Bombay, which was £4
feet in circumference, by the Lorine
semis beetle, is given in the Bombay
Asiatic Society’s Journal for 1844, p.
136. The fruit is occasionally used by
the natives in curries; the leaves dried
and reduced to powder are useful to
diminish excessive perspiration, while
the expressed juice, mixed with sugar,
is valued as an antiseptic drink. In
the gardens here may also be seen the
Sapodilla, a rare shrub, native of the
Celebes; it bears a wholesome oval-
shaped fruit, in taste like a medlar.
The traveller ressed for time may
pass his fourth ay in visiting Ennfir
and the Red Hills, the Highgate and
Hampstead of Madras. He may take
boat at the basin, close to the Ming
and for the moderate sum of 4 rs. be
conveyed in as many hours to Ennfir,
along C'ochrane’s Canal, or still more
expeditiously by the steamer. He will
thus see the garden-houses of the wealthy
inhabitants; and three hours’ drive in a
buggy will bring him thence by the
at the mount,


Madras. RoUTE 2.—MADRAS To
ENNUR BY TRIVATUR. 27
Red Hills back to Madras. As the
Madras Snake Charmers and Jugglers
are perhaps the most famous in India,
he should not omit seeing a speci-
men of their performances. One of the
most curious of their tricks is the string-
ing a basket of eggs thus: the juggler,
while spinning round with wonderful
velocity, inserts a number of eggs, one
by one, into the loops of string fastened
to his head-dress, and keeps them all in
rotatory motion, without any collision
or fracture.
The traveller must not forget that the
luxury of ice is procurable at the ice-
house, established 1845, at South Beach.
It is open at dawn and sunset, except on
Sundays, when it closes at 8 a.m.
Charges, 1 aná per lb., for cash, and 1
aná 3 pice for credit. Branch house at
No. 24, Second Line Beach.
The garrison band plays every Tues-
day evening, at the Gardens of the
Horticultural Society. -
The best confectioners are Laybourne
and Co., Mount-road. Pharoah and
Co., and J. Higginbotham, 122, Mount-
road, are the principal booksellers. The
former keeps also a general European
warehouse. Deschamps in Mount-road
is a very superior cabinet-maker and
upholsterer. He gained a prize at the
Great Exhibition; and his carving in
ebony, rose-wood, and satin-wood fur-
niture, is not inferior to Paris work. He
has sent large orders to Australia.
There are nine weekly newspapers, of
which the Athenaeum, published by
Pharoah and Co.; the Spectator, a semi-
Government Journal; and the Examiner,
by J. J. Craen, are the chief.
EXC U R SION S.
ROUTE 2.
MADRAs To ENNöR BY TRIVAT6R.
- 11 M. 3 F.
MILITARY AUTHORITY —Officer com-
manding Centre Division—Madras.
CIVIL AUTHORITY – Collector of
Chengalpatt–Pallikarni. STAGES.
PLACES. M. F. M. F.
From St. George's Gate of
the Fort to Market i
Black Town ............ . 0 5}
STAGES
PLACES. M. F. M. F.
Black Town Gate ............ 0 7%
Monegar Châwadi. ... . 0 1
Tandiarved ....... . 1 1
Wanárpét .......... ... l I
Trivatór begins............... 1 2
,, ends. Horse Stables 0 6 6 0
(a) Yena-ar, called Ennúr... 20
A Dwelling-house called
“the Retiro” 2
Kattipäkam ...... . 1 3
Mr. Wellington’s house ... 0 6
The Club House ............ 0 2
Mr. Minchin's house ...... 0 2
The Nawab's house......... 0 1%
Binny and Co's house and
banglá....................... 0 23: 53
11 3
There is a good road the whole of the
way from Madras, lined on each side, as
far as Trivatar, by the garden-houses of
wealthy natives. After passing Trivatar
the cultivation ceases, and a sandy plain
commences, flat and barren. If the
traveller prefers water carriage, he may
roceed to Ennar by Cochrane's canal,
ull particulars of which Route will be
found in Route 4–Madras to Palikat.
(a) Ennir.—The name Ennár, which
is properly written Yena-Gr, “What
town P” is said to have arisen from
some European asking the name of the
place in not very intelligible Tamil.
The native he interrogated miscon-
ceiving his question, replied by another
question, “Yena-Gr?” “What town?”
and the questioner put down the
words as the name of the place,
Anglicising their sound to Ennár.
Near Ennár are the great Salt pans, in
which upwards of 36,000 tons of salt
are annually manufactured for the con-
sumption of the city of Madras and its
environs. The salt is sold at 120 rs.
per garisha=4.4 tons, or 34 lbs. for 1d.
A revenue of nearly £60,000 a year is
raised from it.
The soil in which the salt is manu-
factured is of two kinds, red and
brown. The former produces the finest
and whitest salt; the latter a coarse
inferior kind. The manufacture begins
in January, as soon as the rains are


*
28
over, and the weather begins to grow
warmer. The pans, which, including
their reservoirs, are each about two-
thirds of an acre in extent, are first
cleansed from the mud accumulated in
them during the monsoon... Next day
they are moistened with a little water,
and ridges are raised between the pans.
On the third day the pans are dug 13
inches deep with a kind of spade, and,
in the evening, an inch of water is let
in. From the fourth to the ninth day
they are trod down crossways. On the
hinth day an inch of water, already well
heated by the sun in the reservoirs, is
admitted. . In the course of 4 days a
little inferior salt is produced, mixed
with brackish water. The pans are
again well trodden down for 4 days, and
water is admitted, which, in 4 days
more, will produce good salt. From the
23rd to the 25th day the pans are
pounded with rammers till the salt is
quite destroyed, when an inch of water
is again admitted. On the 29th day,
when the water is a quarter of an inch
deep, the salt is fit to be taken out. It
is then strewed on the banks to dry for
6 hours, when it is placed on platforms
in heaps of 60 tons each, and thatched
with straw to prevent damage from rain.
There is a small salt-water lake
at Ennar, where the Madras gentry
enjoy the diversion of boating, which is
impossible at Madras itself, on account
of the surf. This lake contains excel-
lent fish and oysters, and there is a club-
house, with all the agrémens of billiard
tables, card-rooms, etc. Here, there-
fore, the traveller may pass a day very
pleasantly.
ROUTE 3.
MADRAs To MAHABALIPURAM,
oR “SEVEN PAGoDAs,” BY SADRAS
40 M. 4 F.
MILITARY AUTHORITY-Officer com-
manding Centre Division-Madras.
CIVIL AUTHORITY – Collector of
Chengalpatt–Pallikarni.
STAGES.
PLACES. M. F. M. F.
From Walajah Gate to
Rayapéta .................. 2 4
Mailapur Tank ............... 1 3
Elphinstone Bridge ......... 1 5
ROUTE 3.-MADRAs To MAHABALIPURAM.
Sect. I.
STAGES.
PLACES. M. F. M. F.
Pápan Châwadi............... 1 3
Mutukáren Châwadi......... 4 4
X an Inlet..................... 0 5
SHOLANGANELUR...... 1 1 13 1
Chinnancheri.................. 3 1
(a) Wánien Châwadi (Kovi-
lam is near this), b......... 2 4
Padda-ar ..................... 1 5
Changamaliserenkovil 2 2
TRIPALUR, t. o.. ... 3 5 13 1
Alatür ......... •- .... 2 3
Pyandr, t. 9................... 3 1
Paulakaran Châwadi......... 1 5
Kilkanni ..................... 3 2
Direct ra. to Wapencheri..... 0 2}
(b)SADRAS FORT (Mahā-
balipur is near this), b.
and t. 9....................... 34; 14 2
40 4
About 35 miles S. of Madras, and a
few miles from Sadras, are the remark-
able temples of Mahabalipur, “The city
of Great Bali,” or as it is called by the
natives, Mahvellipur; though, as Mr.
Babington informs us, the real name is
Mahāmalaipur, “City of the Great
hill;” while to Europeans the spot is best
known by the title of “The Seven
Pagodas.” As these remains are among
the most curious in India, they deserve
from the traveller more than a hurried
visit. If provided with tents, the
traveller may leave Madras by palan-
keen at night, and reach the pagodas
early next morning, and so spend a day
or two in investigating the ruins. Other-
wise, it will be as well to proceed to
Sadras, which is but a few miles distant
from Mahabalipur, and possesses a good
banglá, at which head quarters may
be fixed.
There is nothing deserving of note
between Madras and Sadras, except
the large and very sacred pagoda at
Tripalár, where there is also a hand-
some Châwadi (choultry). An under-
taking of no little local and even
general importance is, however, now
under prosecution, which cannot but
tend greatly to develope the resources
of the S. districts. Funds have


Madras.
29
nonrn 3.aKor1r.Am--sinass.
been allotted for the formation of a
navigable canal, connecting the Adyar
and Palar rivers respectively at Madras
and Sadres; and it is intended to form
a section of the “E. Coast Canal,” com-
mencing at‘ Tuni in the Vishakpatanam
District, and terminating either at
Tutikorin or extending even to Cape
Kumari (Komorin , in the Tinnevelli
oollectorate. Muc has already been
accomplished in various separate por-
tions of this important commercial and
' social enterprise; but its present cha-
racter of one uninterrupted navi able
canal, available for transit and tra c at
all seasons, is chiefly to be ascribed to the
enlightened views of Lord Harris. The
total length of the Coast Canal will not
be less than 800 miles ; and the average
outlay, including locks and bridges, 18
£1000 per mile. Thus, for less than
£1,000,000, benefits may reasonably be
expected much greater in proportion
than from an equal outlay upon the
lines selected for the Indian railways.
These are, perhaps, of more political
importance in consolidating the powers
of Government, than of commercial
value in improving and developing the
resources of the country.
(a) Kovz‘lam.—At 4 miles S.E. of
Wanien Chawadi is Kovilam (Cove-
long), a small town, between which
and M-ahabalipur is a dangerous reef,
where the Rockingham was lost in
1775. At this place, called by the
Muhammadans Sazidat Bandar, a fort
was built near the ruins of one ercctcd by
the Ostend Company, b Anwaru'd-din
Khan, Nuwfib of the Narnatak. The
French took it in 1750 by a singular
stratagem. A shi anchored in the roads
with asignal of istress flying. On the
N(1wab’s people coming on board, they
were told nearly all the crew had died of
scurvy, and that the rest would perish
too if not suffered to land. According-
ly 30 marvellously ill-favoured French-
men were suffered to come ashore, and
admitted into the fort, counterfeiting a
variety of ailments. These had arms
concealed under their clothes, and in
the night rose on the garrison and over-
powered thcm. Clive took the place in
1752 with a few hundred recruits, whom

he animated by his daring. He found
there 50 cannon of the largest calibre,
which had been captured by the French
at Madras. The commandant sur-
rendered on condition of carrying ofl'
his own property, which turned out to
be turkeys and snufi', in which articles
he dealt.
(b) Sadras itself is a large decayed
place, once a Dutch settlement, and
frequented by the Dutch so long back as
1647; it was annexed by us in 1795, re-
stored in 1818, and finally ceded to the
British in 1824, together with all other
Dutch settlements on the continent of
India, in exchange for certain posses-
sions situated chiefly in Sumatra.
The spot on which the temples are
situated is insulated b an arm of the
sea, one mouth of whic is near Sadras,
and the other at Kovilam (“ church,”
in Tamil), not far from Madras.
This streamlet is always fordable.
Proceeding from Sadras, the first sight
reached is the five Rathas, or “sacred
cars,” as they are called, though
they were obviously not intended as
imitations of those wooden vehicles on
which the ima es of the Gods are moved
on festivals. T ey were probabl carved
for temples; but have been oft un-
finished, being blocks of pale ranitc,
highly ornamented on the outsi e, and
covered with figures, but, with one ex-
ception, not hollowed out. They stand
in a grove of Palmyra trees, and are
partly covered with sand. The one
most to the N. is plain, square, and
hollowed, 10% feet long, and 17 feet
high. The next is square, and much
ornamented, 26 feet 2 in. long, and 25%
feet high. The largest of all is the third,
being 47 feet long, and 25% feet hi h.
Round the lower part, on three sidlas,
are galleries. The whole is cracked
through, and a large fragment broken
0fl' in front. The fourth is three-
storied, adorned with galleries and
figures, and terminates in a dome. It
is 27 feet long, and 36 feet high. These
four are in a line from N. to S. The
fifth is a little to the W., and is perhaps
the most elegant of all. It is shaped
like a horse-shoe, with a portico at the
flat end. It has adouble row of pilasters,


~-i
30
and has three stories, besides the roof,
which is round. Opposite the Rath most
to the N., is the ure of a lion, 6} ft.
long. The head is 6% ft. from the sand,
which has risen to the middle of the
legs. Behind the lion is a large ele-
hant, and the bull of Shiva, nearly
uried in sand. On these Raths are in-
scriptions in ancient Tamil characters,
which have been explained by Mr.
Babington, and which show that the
figures are of Vishnu in his various
Avatars.
About a mile to the N. of the Raths
is the village of Mahavalivaram (Mah-
vellipur), where about 400 brahmans
still reside. In the centre of this
village is a canopy of stone, called the
Dolotsava Mandapam, remarkable for
its lightness and elegance. It is of
granite, and is supported on 4 columns,
which rise from a platform elevated b
3 steps. The shafts of the columns, wit
the base, are hewn from a single stone,
and, including the capital, are 27 ft. in
height. This Manda. am stands in front
of an unfinished bu' ding called Gopu-
ram or “ ateway.” hrough these
Go urams t e idol is wont tobe brought
at indfi festivals to the Manila am to
receive the adoration of the peop e, who
are not permitted to enter the great
temple. Behind this ateway is a
temple to Vishnu, high ornamented
with elaborate carving. ut the most
remarkable object is a large rock close
to the village, in which is hewn a pagoda
" about 26 ft. in length and height, and
13 ft. in breadth. Within is the Lin am
and a long inscription on the wall. ear
this, the surface of the rock, for about
90 feet in len h, and 30 ft. in height,
is covered wit ii es. Of these the
principal are Arjun, the third son of
Pi-itha, and Pandu, performing ascetieal
worship to obtain from Vishnu a celestial
weapon which will give him power over
all his foes. He stands on the tip of his
great toe, with his hands above his head,
and eyes and face upturned. On his
right is the four-arrned figure of Vishnu,
and on either side are innumerable
figures of men. and deities, as well as
animals, particularly lions and apes.
Below, on the left, is a group of ele-
ROUTE 3.-—ii.i11.inAr.1r>unsir.

Sect. I.
phants; and, on the right, a temple
with figures. A few paces onward is a
spacious excavation called the Krishna
Manda am, where the god is reszesented
as ten 'ng the herds of Nan . The
execution is coarse, and the design rude.
Up this rock the brahmans will conduct
the traveller, and on the way it is neces-
sary to pass under a prodigious circular
stone 27 ft. in diameter, so placed on a
smooth and sloping surface that there
seems danger of its crushing those who
pass beneath. The top of the rock is
strewn with fragments of brick, said to
be the remains of an ancient palace. A
rectangular polished slab, about 10 ft.
in length, is shown as the couch of
Dharma Raja, the eldest brother of
Arjun. A rough stone excavated isalso
pointed out as the ladies’ bath.
Descending over immense beds of
stone, you arrive at another spacious
excavation, a temple of Shiva, who is
represented, in the middle compartment,
of large size, with four arms; while a
small figure of Brahma stands on his
right, and one of Vishnu on his left.
At one end of the temple is a gigantic
image of Vishnu sleeping on the S esh-
nag, or thousand-headed snake; its
heads forming his canopy. Opposite is
Durga mounted on a ion, attacking
Maheshasur, or the buffalo-headed de-
mon. This is said by Babington to be
the most spirited piece of Hindu sculp-
ture he ever beheld.
At a considerable elevation above this
excavation is a smaller temple wrou ht
out of a single mass of rock. he
situation is so picturesque, and its sculp-
ture so rich, that it is in the highest
degree worth of examination. It is in
form a para lclogram, open on one of
the longer sides. It contains four large
compartments, one at each end, and one
on each side of the central recess, oppo-
site the entrance. At the left end, is a
representation of Vishnu in the Varaha
Avatara, or Boar Incarnation, the third
of that God. He holds in one hand the
goddess Lakshmi, in the other his usual
characteristics. Adoring figures sur-
round him. At the opposite end is
another figure of Vishnu, with 8 arms,
holding various weapons. On the right


Madras.
31
ROUTE 4.—MADRAS TO PALIKAT, COROMANDEL, ETC.
and left of the central recess are female
deities with attendants.
About half-a-mile to the E. of the
village, and washed by the sea, is the
celebrated pagoda which forms so con-
spicuous a mark for navigators. The
surf dashes its spray over this temple,
and would, perhaps, ere now have
swallowed it up, but for a defence of
large stones in front. Numerous rocks
stretch for a long distance into the sea,
and on the nearest of these, standing in
the very spray of the sea, is a pillar such
as is ordinarily erected in front of the
Hinda temples of celebrity. It would
seem that 4 or 5 other pillars once stood
on this rock, for the mortices for them
remain. The position of this temple,
the pillars in the sea, and the masses of
rock visible at low water, may have
given rise to the legend of the sub-
merged city of Bali having existed here,
a story which may fairly be classed
among the wildest Hinda fictions,
though Southey has immortalised it in
his “Curse of Kehama,” and Mr. Gold-
ingham's brahman assured that gentle-
man that his grandfather had seen the
gilt tops of 5 pagodas among the break-
ers. It would have been strange indeed,
if, in a place so destitute of every capa-
bility for supporting human life, there
had once been a great city, whose
golden summits in the noon-day #
Shone '. the dark green deep thus rolled be-
W
een,
For domes, and #'s. and spires, were seen
Peering above the sea . . . a mournful sight !
Well might the sad beholder ween from thence
What works of wonder the devouring wave
Had swallowed there, when monuments so
rave
Bore record of their old magnificence.
And on the sandy shore, beside the verge
Of Ocean, here and there a rock-hewn fane
Resisted in its strength the surf and surge
That on their £ oundations beat in vain.
In solitude the ancient temples stood,
nce resonant with instrument and song,
And solemn dance of festive multitude;
Now as the weary ages pass along,
Hearing no voice save of the ocean flood,
Which roars for ever on the restless shores;
Orvisiting their solitary caves,
The lonely sound of winds, that moan around
Accordant to the melancholy waves.
The situation of the temple, however,
in so wild and desolate a spot, with the
hoarse roar of waters heard around it,
as well as its own extreme beauty, justly
entitle it to a legend, and one “married
to immortal verse.” Mr. Fergusson, in
his “Ancient Architecture of Hindo-
stan,” declares it to be with the single
exception of the Pagoda at Tanjūr, the
finest and most important Wimána in the
S. of India. It is small, being not more
than 30 ft. square at base, and 60 ft.
high, but it is free from all surrounding
walls and gateways, which so detract
from the grandeur of other pagodas.
A spirited view of it will be found in the
work above referred to. The same au-
thority assigns the edifice to the 11th
century, and the neighbouring excava-
tions to the 13th or 14th. It is to be
regretted that the inscriptions, as yet
deciphered, furnish no clue to the date
or history of these remarkable struc-
tures; though Dr. Babington explains
one line as conveying the name of the
founder, “Atiranachanda ( he who in
battle is very furious'), Lord of Kings,
built this place called Atiranachandesh-
wara.” It is equally a matter of doubt
to what deity the seaside pagoda was
originally dedicated. In the chamber
next the sea is a gigantic Lingam of black
polished stone, which would lead us to
' it a temple of Shiva. On the
other hand, there is a gigantic figure of
Vishnu, in a recumbent posture, in one
of the verandahs. The uncertainty on
all these points may, perhaps, heighten
the zest of inspection.
ROUTE 4.
MADRAs To PALIKAT (PULICAT), coro-
MANDEL, SULURPKT, AND DURGARA-
ZÄPATANAM oR, ARMEGoN. 62 M.
MILITARY AUTHORITY—Officer com-
manding Centre Division—Madras.
CIVIL AUTHORITY—To Coromandel :
Collector of Chengalpatt–Pallikarni.
Thence to Durgarāzāpatanam : Collec-
tor of Nellūr—Nellir. STAGES.
PLACES. M. F. M. F.
From Walajah Gate of Fort
St. George to Mint Gate 2 0}
Náráyan Châwadi ......... 1 5}
Road to Trivatór or Tiru-
patiar ..................... 1 7
x n. to Chirümacheri...... 27
x 2 n. and Korteliár r. to
Velivya Chávadi......... 3 1
WE'LUR t. o................ 2 0 13 5


32 RoUTE 4.—MADRAs To PALIKAT, coROMANDEL, ETC. Sect. I.
STAGES A. R.
PLACES. M. F. M. F. 2nd size Bajrá, to Ennár ......... 2 8
Mailar....................... 0 4 Pulicat top boat (i.e. with tar-
Minjar..... . 1 7 paulin cover), with 2 men, to
Medddavogel . . 1 4 Sularpét ........................ 3 8
Voyalur ....... . 1 1 Ditto, to Coromandel or Pulicat 1 8
Tiruvanavovel............... 1 5 Ditto, to Ennúr.................... . 1 0
x n. to Vellaima Chávadi 1 7 Northern lighter of any size, with
Yeddaiyen Châwadi ...... 2 7 2 men, to Sulürpét ............ 3 8
(a) x n to Palikat (Pulicat) Ditto, to Coromandel or Pulicat 1, 12
b. * 0. ..................... 1 3 Ditto, to Ennar..................... 1 4
(b) £ (Coro- If a boat be kept a full day, an extra
man')...:............... ' ' ' ' ||allowance, called "bhāta, of 1 fanam, or
SULURPET ............... 29 3 298 || 13 aná, should be given to each man.
* 4. *
@'. Should the traveller wish to retain the
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 5 ö 5 5 boat longer the following are the charges
82 0 for each additional day, including bhātā :
R.
Several things make this route in- 1st size cabin boat, per diem... 3}
teresting to the traveller, though there 2nd ditto ,, ... 2%
are little or no attractions of scenery. Pulicat top boat ,, ... 1
In the first place it leads to the most | Northern lighter ,, ... 1}
ancient settlements of the British in
India, whose colonization even precedes
that of Madras in the history of the
Anglo-Indian empire. Further, the
whole distance between Madras and
Durgarāzāpatanam is a portion of a
gigantic series of canals now in pro-
gress, which will connect Nagapatanam
Negapatam) in the Collectorate of
anjir with Tuni on the N. boundary
of Rajamahéndri, a distance of 710 miles.
To this it is expected a canal from Nāga-
patanam to Tutikorin, in the Tinnevelli
Collectorate, an extension of 204 miles
more, will be added. The benefits of
such a vast system of communication
will beincalculably great, since all coarse
and bulky merchandise will be thus trans-
mitted even more cheaply than by rail.
The land route to Coromandel has been
given above, but the best mode of tra-
velling is by boat. The hire of boats
from Madras and back again is as fol-
lows :-
1st size Bajrá, or cabin boat
(spelled by the English Budge-
r
row), with crew of 5 men, to R. A.
Sulúrpet........................... 15 0
Ditto, to Coromandel, or Pulicat 6 0
Ditto, to Ennar..................... 4 0
2nd size ditto, with 4 men, to
Sulúrpét........................... 10 8
Ditto, to Coromandel or Pulicat 3 8
The boats are private property, and
the passenger must make his own agree-
ment with the men, but the above are
the usual charges. Formerly a toll was
charged at the toll-office on palankeens
and baggage at the rate of 33 anás for
each palankeen, and 1 aná for a kuli's
load, or running porter's load, of bag-
gage; but the toll on goods has now
been abolished, and in lieu of it a tax is
levied on boats coming into the basin,
at 4 anás per ton, according to the
tonnage of the boat. The canal is
now under the charge of a Superin-
tendent (an Engineer officer), and is
being extended both to the N. and S. The
point of embarkation is at the basin,
close to the Mint. Thence to Ennúr is
about 10 m., to Pulicat 30, and to Su-
larpét 60. A cabin boat of the 1st size
will go to Sulürpét with a N. wind in
about 24 hours, with a S. wind in about
18, and to Ennar or Pulicat in a propor-
tionably shorter time. It will take 4
passengers with 5 kavadi (such as are
carried by kulis on slings) boxes com-
fortably. One of the 2nd size will take
2 passengers and 2 boxes. A top boat
will take 4 passengers and 2 boxes; or
a palankeen and 6 bearers; it sails even
better than a cabin boat. A 1st class
lighter will take ten cart loads of bag-


p /
Madras. RouTE 5.—MADRAs To ARCOT AND VELUR, By RAIL.
33
gage or goods; a 2nd class lighter 6 cart | Gopāl Naidu, some English gentlemen
O301S.
Ennir has been already described.
[R. 2.]
(a) Palikat or Palvélakatu (Pulicat),
‘‘The ancient forest of Vål trees;” from
pal, “old;” and vel, “a tree;” and
katu, “a forest” (according to Baldwin,
Balaiya Koth, “Old Fort;” according
to Graul, Pala vér Katu, “Old Mimosa
Jungle”) is a town on an island at the
S. extremity of the large lagoon, or salt
water lake, of the same name. The lake
is about 37 miles in length, and from 3
to 11 in breadth, and contains several
islands. It was no doubt formed at no
very distant period, by the sea breaking
over the low coast during a storm. The
extensive shoal which extends along the
coast in this direction seems to point to
a still more ancient catastrophe of the
same sort. Thus, in the memorable
hurricane of the 10th of Dec., 1807,
the sea inundated the whole of Black
Town in Madras, and the bottom of a
ship of 800 tons, supposed to have been
burnt 10 years before, was washed high
and dry, close to Parry's office. Such a
storm would greatly damage the canal
from Madras to the S. limit of Guntúr,
which runs close to the coast, though
embankments covered with binding
grasses might obviate the danger. Puli-
cat is generally considered the S. limit
of the Telugu language, separating it
from the Tamil it was occupied by
the Dutch in 1609, who built a fort
there, which they called Geldria. After
the loss of Nagapatanam they trans-
ferred the government of their settle-
ments on the Coromandel coast to this
place. It was subsequently occupied by
the English in 1795.
(b) Close to Pulicat is the village of Ka-
rimanal, which, being corrupted by the
Dutch and English to Coromandel, gave
its name to the whole coast. (See under
Madras.)
(c) Durgarāzdpatanam, or Armegon, is
now a small village, chiefly inhabited by
salt manufacturers. It was the first place
occupied by the British, who erected a
factory here in 1625. The native legend
is thus given:—In the time of Guruva
Naidu, great great grandfather of Rājā
came to the port and sent for the chief
men of the place, Guruva Naidu and the
Accountant,one Patnaswämula Armogam
Mudeliár, and said they wished to build
a fort there. They then landed a cannon,
and fired a shot in a W. direction, and
asked for as much land as was included
in the space the shot traversed. The
land belonged to the Venkatagadi Rājā,
who was induced by Guruva and Armo-
gam to allow the strangers to occupy
the spot called Chenva Kuppam. Ac-
cordingly they built a fort there, and
called the place Armegon, in honor of
Armogam Mudeliár.
ROUTE 5.
r
MADRAS TO ARCOT AND VELóR, BY RAIL.
STATIONS. DISTANCE FROM MADRA.S.
Miles.
Madras. Dep.
Perumbudár (Perumbir)...... 34
Red Hills...................... ... 7%
Avadi.............................. 13
Tinnanór ........ • * * * * * * * * * ... 18
Tiruvallar (Trivellore).. . 26
Kadambatar..... • * * * * * • * * * . 29%
Chinnamapét .. . 36+
Companypét.... ... 45%
Banavaram.... . 56
Arcot..................... ... 65}
Tiruvelam (Trivellam).......... 73}
Vélir .............................. 80}
The terminal station, at Madras, is on
what is called the Black Town la-
nade, just outside the wall, N., and
lying between it and the village of Raya-
puram. It is close to the beach, to
which a line of rails has been laid down.
The transport of the heaviest engines
across the surf, all of them having, in
the first instance, been sent out from
England, was a great feat of dexterity.
The principal workshops are at Perum-
budár, which is the first station on the
list (see above). The traveller who is
pressed for time may, by the rail, make
a flying excursion to Vélór, and return
the same day or next morning. This
railroad will connect Madras with the
West coast, passing—by Arcot, Vélar,
Salem, and Koimbatar—to Bépur, a
distance of 400 miles. A line to Ben-
galar will diverge at Waniambaddi, an


* * *
34
additional distance of 80 miles; and a
branch will connect the Nilgiri hills
with the main line.
Eventually Madras will be connected
by rail with Bombay, passing through
Ballári and Púna, a distance of about
800 miles.
ROUTE 6.
MADRAs To ÁRNí, BY SHRí-PERUMBUD6R
AND w8LAJAHBAD, 83 M. 6 F.
MILITARY AUTHORITY-Officer com-
manding Centre Division—Madras.
CIVIL AUTHORITY-To left bank of
Pálár river: Collector of Chengalpatt–
Pallikarni. From right bank of Palár
river: Collector of N. Division, Arcot–
Chittur. STAGES.
PLACE8. M. F. M. F.
Chaitpét....................... 4
Küam river... ... : 0
Koimbaidu............ ... 1
Wailappen Châwadi......... 4
(a) PUNAMALLI, b.&t.o. 2
2
0
1
3
l
Paité Chattram..............
Rd. to Nagari..
Irringádkoté..................
(b) x 2 n. to SHRI-PER-
UMBUDUR, b. & t. o...
Arcot rd. joins...............
Arni................
:
8 6
x 3 n. to Chairikádà.......
£".
ājampéta....... • * * * * * * * * * * * *
Iyempéta................ - - -
(d) LITTLE CONJEWE-
RAM, b. & t.0............ •
Chaiwaddimúda. -
Pălăr r. M. b..
Ditto, r. b...............
(e) AYENKOLAM...
andal..................
x n. to Wambākam.
Tripanamár.........
PERINGATUR.
Pilibákam .........
Erramberti
7 5
'
6 4
i
54
10 3
2
:
arudam.....................
x 2 n. to MAMBAKAM...
ROUTE 6.—MADRAS TO ARNI-PUNAMALLI.
Sect. I.
STAGES.
PLACES. M. F. M. F.
Mamandar.................... 3 6
Nagaram ... 1 7
x Chíár r.............. •- - - 1 4
(f) ARNI FORT, N.E.
angle, 4.0................... 1 1 8 2
83 6
Leaving the Walājāh gate of the fort,
and passing over the : of the same
name, and then over St. Mary's bridge,
you proceed for the first 4 miles through
the town and suburbs to Chaitpét.
About half-a-mile before reaching this
place, the Military Female Orphan Asy-
lum is passed on the right hand.
(a) Punamalli is the depôt for H. M.
troops. Ormementions the fort as having
been built by the Moors. It lies to the
east of the cantonment about 400 yards
from the barracks; it is square, 175 yards
long, 142 broad, and is surrounded by a
rampart 18 feet high. Within are a
magazine, and ranges of store-rooms for
the clothing and arms of H. M. troops.
The barracks can contain about 500
men. A chaplain is stationed here. The
native population is about 7000, exclu-
sive of about 200 Sipáhis and their fami-
lies. Recruits generally arrive from
England in September and October, and
remain at the depôt until after the N.E.
monsoon, which is the most unhealthy
season. Invalided men are brought
down about the end of the year, for the
£ of being sent home. It is re-
markable that this place, Palaveram, and
St. Thomas's Mount, have been exempt
from epidemic cholera for a number of
years. Specimens of gray ball clay and
magnesian clay were sent from hence to
the Great Exhibition. There is a tank
and a made road. The country around
is flat and well cultivated; the soil red.
A mile east of the cantonment there is
ground for a force to encamp. The
place lies in N. lat. 13° 2', E. long.
18° 10'. Half-way between Punamallf
and Shri Perumbudür (Streepermadoor),
at a short distance from the road, is the
noble tank of Chambrambákám, which
is not less than 16 miles in circumfer-
ence. It has been formed by banking
up the Chir-nadi river and other streams


,
Madras. nonrn 6.—snnI-risnunnuniin, WALAJAHBAD, 35
1;!:
1-zrc.
by a vast mound of earth, which has been
made to connect two natural ridges.
This sheet of water is said to be suffi-
cient for the support of 32 villages during
a time of drought.
Sb) Sh?!’-P¢1‘1l’7/|bMd7it1‘(Sl1‘0¢]06TWL(l(l00T,
an by Buchanan called Sn‘-Permzu
tum). This town is celebrated as the
birth- lace of Rama Anu'a A’charya, the
great rahman saint an reformer, and
the founder of a sect. He is su posed
to have been born in A.D. 1016. lliefore
his time Buddhists and J ains were the
prevalent sects in these parts. Both
ave now disappeared. There is a large
temple here, and between it and the
spot where Rama Anuja was born, over
which a stone chamber is erected, there
is a remarkably fine ma1_u_Iapam, or por-
tico. This is also a large place, with
the same soil and cultivation as at Pn-
namallf. Kfinam is a village of 20
houses and a bazar.
(0) Wdlajdhbdd, otherwise called Shi-
waram, and very commonly Walaj ahpét,
is a. military station. Formerly, one of
H.M.'s regiments, with one or two
corps of native troops, were stationed
there, but the mortality was found to be
so great that it obtained the mournful
soubriquet of “the grave of Europeans.”
The onl troops now located there are
the he -quarters of a Native Veteran
Battalion, which occu y the former
European barracks ; the rum-boy estab-
lishment ; and details of the native sick
arriving from the Eastern settlements.
The cantonment stands 500 *ards on the
north, or left, side of the alar river,
having the village of Wélajahbad half
B. mile to the S.E. Walayéihbad has
lon been a reat emporium for the
tra e between e coast and the interior.
It possesses, also, an extensive manu-
facture of chintz, much of which is
exported to the eastward; a good deal
of cloth is also woven there. The
country is flat and open. Along the
road may be observed a number of rest-
ing-places, built by charitable persons
for porters, who here carry all their
burdens on their heads. These resting-
places are walls four feet high, on which
the loads can he placed and taken up
again without assistance. Oha'wadis

(choultries), or native inns for travellers,
are also very numerous. The river
Palar, on which stands \V€ila_j ahbad (so
called from the Niiwab of the Karnatak,
Muhammad ’Ali, who assumed this title
of Walajah in 1776), rises near N audi-
drug, in Maisfir, bisects the collectorate
of N. Arcot, and then, entering that of
Chengalpatt_,disembogues at Sadras. The
word “ Palar,” in the native dialect,
means “milk-river;” pdl, “ milk," dr,
“ ariver;” and, in Sanskrit, is kshir-_
which has the same mean-
ing. The channel, when crossed at
\Valajahbad, is about half a mile \Yl(.lC,
but has but little water, save in the
rainy season, that is, when the rains
prevail on the coast of Coromandel, when
it rises hi hest. It flows by the city of
Arcot, Velfiir, Vaniambaddi, and other
places of importance; and in this dry
and sun-scorched region its waters are
of inestimable value. An Annkait (prop.
adqia-ka_t_ta: ar]¢_iamu, “across,” katta,
“mound,” or “dam,” in Telugu), or
dam, has been constructed across the
Chiar, one of its afliuents; and one is
now being constructed across the main
river near Arcot, from which a channel
is to be cut, terminating in the Adyiir
above the cantonment of Palaverani.
Another is to be built across the Poiné,
which falls into the Palar above
Arcot.
(d) Little Oonjereram is about 2 miles
distant from Great Uonjeveram, one of
the seven sacred cities of the Hindus,
by whom it is called Kdnchi-puram, or
“the golden city," (from the Skr. root,
kzish, “to shine," and puram, “ city.”)
It is situated on the Wegawati, a stream
which is dry in the hot season. It coii-
tains a population of about 20,000 per-
sons, and some celebrated pagodas,*
sacred to Ishwar, or Shiva, of the same
pyramidical form as that at Tanjnr.
(Vide Route 32). The largest of these
midi,
' It may be noted here, as a remarkable
[act-, that generally in the temples sacred to
Shiva, throughout the provinces of Arcot,
Tanjnr, Trichinapalli, Madura, and 'l‘in_nevelli,
the high-priest, who has the entire direction
of the revenues, is a Panddram, or Linsayat
priest or the fourth or S_hudra. caste, and that
the brahmans who offlciaie in the ceremonial
look up to this man of an order sointerior,
and show him great reverence.


36 norm: 6.—-LITTLE CONJEVERALI.
Sect. 1.
pagodas, sacred to Shiva, has an inscrip-
tion on the great tower over the grand
entrance, which sets forth that the build-
ing was erected by Krishna Rayalu Raja
of Vijayanagar, who began to reign A.D.
1509. This building is said to be the
highest of the kind in India, though
Caunter assigns the first lace to
the pagoda at Tiruvannama lé. F.
Buchanan speaks of the carving as
clumsy, though he praises the wooden
ratha or cars on which the idols are
borne in procession. '1‘hese, indeed, are
of great size, and highly ornamented.
From the top of the principal pagoda
(that of Shiva, called Ekambara Swami,
“Lord of the One _/Ether”), which
is reached by 9 flights of steps (3 of
stone and 6 of wood, all uncommonly
steep), there is a fine view over exten-
sive woods, intersected by a large sheet
of water, the distance being closed by
a magnificent range of hills, among
which that of Tiruvannamallé (Trino-
malee) may be faintly seen. The town
is of considerable size, and very regu-
larly built, with tolerably wide and
clean streets, which cross one another
at right angles. More than 100 fami-
lies of hrahmans reside in it, belonging
to the two principal pagodas, one of
which is dedicated to Yshwar, the other
to his wife, Kiimachuma (prop. Kam-
akshi-amma) or Kamakshi, “fair-eyed,”
i.e. Parvati. Besides these temples there
is a mosque of neat structure, which the
Hindus say was once a pagoda, and a
ver large temple at Lesser Conjeveram
to ishnu, who pays a visit to Shiva
twice a ear, receiving one visit back.
The year y olferings to Vishi_iu’s temple
are said to be worth about 12,000 rs.,
those of the two Shiva temples not more
than from 3000 to 4000 rs. The Vishnu
temple, cs ecially in the ornamenturc of
its hall 0 1000 pillars, resembles that
at Shri Ranga (Seringham) ; it is more
rich in architectural embellishment than
the temples at Great Conjeveram, and
cannot but excite the wonder and admi-
ration of the visitor. Among the jewels
of the god, the priests shew some which
the say were contributed by Clive
an by Mr. Glass. Mr. Glass also
bestowed a large garden on the temple.


As these temples are among the most
sacred in all S. India, they deserve
examination. There is also a separate
place of worship for the Jangams, or
wearers of the Lingani, of whom about
100 families live in the town itself, and
others in the vicinity. (For a notice of
their creed and customs see the learned
Essay of C. P. Brown, Esq., Madras
Literary Journal, Jan. 1840, . 143).
Some mutilated figures of Bud ha may
still be seen lying about, contemned and
defaced, but bearing testimony to a time
when the religion of the Quietists was
the prevalent one in this celebrated city.
Every year, in Vaishakh or May, there is
a festival, attended by vast numbers of
people. The town was burned by the
French in 1757. Conjeveram is most
memorable, however, for the defeat of
Colonel Baillie, when that gallant but
unfortunate otficer, with about 200 Euro-
peans, the remnant of his force, was
taken prisoner by Haidar'Ali. This
victory, almost the greatest ever obtained
over the English arms in India, was
gained by the Maisfir Prince, Sept. 9,
1780. Baillie had with him originally
150 Europeans and upwards of 2000
Sipahis. With these troops he re-
pulsed an attack made on him by Tipfi
$al_1ib, with prodigiously superior num-
bers, at Perambiikam. On the 8th
he was joined by Colonel Fletcher,
with the flank companies of the 73rd
Regiment, two companies of European
Grenadiers, one company of Sipahi Marks-
men, and 10 of Sipahi Grenadiers, de-
tached to his support by Gen. Munro,
who lay with the main army at Con-
jeveram. Baillie’s orders were to effect
a junction with Munro ; and, marching
at 5 a.m., he had so nearly succeeded in
this, in spite of a furious attack made
upon him by Tip(i,that the pagoda of
Conjeveram was already in sight, when
Haidar’s main army, with upwards of 60
pieces of cannon, and an immense number
of rockets, came up, and poured in a fire
which was irresistible. To add to the
misfortunes of the English, at half-past
7 a.m., two of their tumbrils blew up.
Notwithstanding this they stood their -
ground till past 9; and, after the Sip-ahis
were almost all destroyed, Colonel Baillie,


- • /
Madras.
although severely wounded, formed a
square with the surviving Europeans,
and gained a little eminence, where,
without ammunition, and almost all
wounded, they repelled 13 attacks of the
enemy. At last, to save the lives of the
remainder, Baillie hoisted a flag of truce,
but nothing but the strenuous interven-
tion of Lalivand the French officers pre-
vented the £ from massacring
their prisoners. Some paintings on the
walls of Tipa's palace, at Seringapatam,
though now half defaced, still commemo-
rate this triumph, and represent Baillie
and his soldiers in the hands of their
captors. The Swiss Count De Boigne,
afterwards so celebrated as Sindhya's
General, and who raised and disciplined
for that Prince the regular battalions
that, after many victories over native
troops, were crushed by Wellesley at
Assaye, and Lake at Laswari, was a
subaltern in the 6th Regt., part of
Baillie's force. Being detached with 2
companies on escort duty, he escaped the
massacre of his corps. There is an ex-
cellent and well-attended school of the
Scotch Free Church Mission at Conje-
Veram.
(e) Ayenkolam (or Ayengolam) is a vil-
lage of 40 houses. There is a tank, and at
no great distance another very large one,
called Māmdār Tank. Beyond the vil-
lage, on each side of the road, there is
ound for troops to encamp. The road
is good, the soil sandy; the country flat,
open, and cultivated. Peringatar is a
large weaver's village, very populous.
Thereare 15 streets of shops and an ample
and unfailing supply of water from tanks.
The road is very good, over hard red
soil, except near Peringatür; the coun-
try is flat and open, and well calculated
for encamping. Mámbàkam is a village
of 70 houses. There is encamping
ground E. and W. of it; but water is
not always to be had from the tanks.
The road is good, over red soil, passing
by Palmyrah topes. The country is flat
and open.
(f) Arni, in N. lat. 12°40', E. long. 70°
21', was, in the days of Haidar "Kii, al
strong fort, but its defences are now much
dilapidated. Clive gained a victory here
in 1751, over Rājā Sáhib. In June,
RoUTE 7.—MADRAS To ARCOT, VELUR, ETC.
37
1783, Sir Eyre Coote made an unsuccess-
ful attempt to invest it, as Haidar had
deposited his treasure there. Attacked
by the Maisüreans, the English General
retired in the direction of Madras, and
in his retreat lost a regiment of Euro-
pean cavalry, which he called his grand
guard, and which, being drawn into an
ambuscade, was entirely cut to pieces or
made prisoners. There is now a canton-
ment for European troops within the
fort, which is only occasionally occupied,
and which serves as a temporary depôt
for corps proceeding up country, or pre-
vious to embarkation from the Presi-
dency. The officers' quarters are in two
bomb-proof ranges of buildings; and
about 300 yards in rear of them are the
barracks, which can accommodate one
regiment, but which are now garrisoned
by a detachment of invalid Sipahis. The
barracks are also bomb-proof, and are
spacious and commodious, forming a
square, of which one side is a wall with
a gateway. The fort is elevated 400
feet above the sea. There is a town
of the same name adjacent, the site of
which is rather low, but slopes down a
quarter of a mile to a river, in which is
a constant supply of excellent water. The
country around is flat and open, the
nearest hills, which are granite, being
6 miles of Vegetation is scanty. The
soil is disintegrated granite, with sand
and clay impregnated with impure saline
matter.
ROUTE 7.
MADRAs To ARCOT (70 M.5 F.), véLóR
(84 M. 3 F.), AND THE KURAMBA-
PATTI PASS, 164 M. 7 F.
MILITARY AUTHORITY—Officer com-
manding Centre Division—Madras.
CIVIL AUTHORITY – Collector of
Chengalpatt-Pallikarni, as far as boun-
dary £ Dámal and Sangrambaddi
Chattram. Thence to Pálár r. l. b., after
Udiendram: Collector of N. Div. of Arcot
–Chittur. Thence to Kurambapatti Pass:
Collector of Salem–Salem. STAGES.
PLACES. M. F. M. F.
PUNAMALLI*........... # #} 25 4
SHRI PERUMBUDUR, 13 #}
Wenkatarangapilli Châwadi 1 4
* For Remarks, vide Route 6.


* *
38 RoUTE 7.—MADRAS TO ARCOT, VELUR, ETC. Sect. I.
stAGES. STAGES.
PLACES. M. F. M. F. PLACES, M. F. M. F.
Mámbàkam Chattram...... 2 7 Palár, r. l.b.................. 0 3
Rāmākā Chattram ...... ... 30 Ditto r. b...................... 0 2
(a) Pillé Chattram ......... 2 7 (k)VANIAMBADDI,b.&t.o. 0 5 104
(b) x 2 n. to RAJA CHAT- x branch of Pálár r. to
TRAM, b................... 4 0 14 2 Gowindapuram....... ..... 0 5
Râmanappa Chetti Chat- x the Kallar n. to Nekundi 2 1
trum......................... 3 2 Kaitondapattà......... - - - 2 4
Pass between Two Tanks x n. to Pallatür............. 2 4
to Káklam Chattram..... 2 6 x KALLAR n. to NATA-
Surappyen Chattram........ 2 1 RAMPALLI, b.......... . 2 0 9 6
(c) BALCHETTI CHAT- Katkawúr............ ... 1 2
TRAM, b................... 2 1 10 2 | x n. to Mallapalli.......... 2 4
(d) Dámal .... .... 20 x 2 ns, to Nandibandi...... 1 5
Boundary .... .... 1 3 x 4 ns to Kishtnampatti... 32
Sankrambaddi Chattram... 0 5 # MALLAPADDI, b...... 1 7 10.4
x c. to Awalar............... 1 4 angla ..................... ... 0 5
UCH-CHERI (WOCHE- X Bargūr r; to Bargūr .... 03
RI) CHATTRAM, b... 24 8 0 | Maudaipalli.................. 1 4
(e) Kávéripák, b. &. t. o... 30 x 3 ns, to Kandikuppam... 20
x n. to Waniam Chattram... 30 x 2 ns, to Worapam..... .. 20
Karrapen Tángal........... . 2 0 Kátnampatti ......... - - - - - 3 0
Walājāhpét begins b........ 14 £ 6 11 2
Ditto £ • - - - - - - - - - - 0 7 tayakóta ra....... • * * *-* * * 0 2
(f) ARCOT (Church) Allinagaram. . 2 6
b. & p. o... ....... 22 12 5 | Bandarpalli.. .... 1 6
Karay...... 0. 5 Kolpatti...................... 0 7
Tengal ......... 2 5 x CHIKKAHOLLA r. to
Pălăr r. l. b... .... 0 14 (n) KURAMBAPATTI, b. 22 7 7
Ditto r. b..................... 1 3% -
Arramailómangapuram .... 4 7 164 7
Vélér begins ...... • * * * * - - - - 3 1
Chittar rd. ioins............ . 0 5 As far as Vélár, the road from Madras
(g) VELUR FORT b.&t.0 0 2 13 6 is excellent; but in the next stage, to
Abdullapuram...... ....... 3 1 Pallikonda, it becomes heavy.
Satyamangalam.. 2 5 (a) Pillé Chattram, or the inn of
Werinchipuram........ 1 3 Virapermalpillé, is the first place to be
Rd. to Kanyambaddi........ 2 3} noticed after passing Shri Perum-
Rd. to Göriattam............ 3 0} budar. This Vira Permal Pillé was
(h) PALLIKONDA, b.&t.o. 0 2 127 the dubash, or head servant of Sir
x Ugram r. 200 yards wide 2 0 Charles Oakley, who, on the 1st of
Kutambákam................. 3 0 '. 1792, succeeded Gen. Meadows
(i) TOTALAM..... • 2 7 7 7 as Governor of Madras. The inn con-
Paitinámkuppam .. 3 7 sists of two square courts, enclosed by
Pachakuppam.... 1 5 low buildings, and divided into small
Gomeshwaram................ 1 6 apartments for the accommodation of
AMBURPET, b... 2 5 9 7 travellers. The buildings on the out-
Pălăr r. r. b........ 0 3 side are surrounded by a colonnade, and
Ditto l.b....... 0 2 are constructed of well-cut whitish
Daivalapuram.... () 1 granite, brought from the distance of
Virakuppam .................. 2 6 20 miles. The inn is said to have cost
Waddagaray.... 1 4 15,000 pagodas, or 5,515l. 8s. 1d. The
Waddicheri ... 1 5 country here greatly lackstrees. Among
Udiendram .... 2 5 the few that grow spontaneously are


llaclras.
39
ROUTE CHA'1‘TRAM—ARCOT, ETC.
the melia azadirachta and the robinia
mitis.
(I1) Rajd Uhattram is a large place
with sixteen shops, There is extensive
encampin ground 100 yards E. of the
village. he water is from a tank. The
country is flat, and in general cultivated,
with a red soil.
(0) Bdlchetti Ohattram, said by Graul
to be pro . Pdl-Chettvi Uh., “Lodging-
house of t e milk-merchant,” has fifteen
shops. There is ample ground for en-
eamping 100 yards W. of the village.
Water from two tanks is close at hand.
The country is flat, open, and generally
cultivated.
(d) Ddmal is the last village of what
was the Jdgir, or estate granted by the
Nfiwab of the Karnatak to the English, in
1750, and confirmed in 1762. The canal
that runs between this place and Awahir
waters much valuable rice land. At
Awaliir (or the soil is good; but,
as a general rule throughout the collecto-
rates of Chengalpatt and N. and S. Arcot,
irrigation by artificial means is required
to produce fertility. From this stage,
however, to Kdvéripdk, water is abimdant
for irrigatory purposes, from the noble
tank at the latter place. The country,
consequently, has afertile and refreshing
appearance. Wocheri Chattram is a
villa e with eight shops. There is here a
verydiandsome tank, formed by digging a
square cavit in the soil. The sides are
entirely line with cut granite, in the form
of stairs. Such a tank, when intended for
the accommodation of travellers, or the
0 le near, is called in Tamil Kola/m;
in anarese, Kunte’; and in Telugu,
Gu/nta. The same remarks apply to it
with re eet to soil, encamping grounds,
road an cultivation, as have been re-
corded of the receding stages.
(e) The tan at .Ka'véri'pa'k is nearly
8 miles long and 3 broad, and is, in fact,
one of the most magnificent in the S. of
India. It is not an excavation, but
formed by moundin streams. Near it
a vast extent of lan may be seen under
luxuriant crops, in every stage of growth,
throughout the year, even iii the height
of the hot season, afi:ording a striking
contrast to the umrrigated country
around, in which the crops often perish,



even in the monsoon season; while in
the hot weather not a blade of vegetation
is visible.
Hence to Arcot the country is more
barren.
(f) Arkdt (Arcot); in Tamil, Aru-
Kddu, “6wildernesses,” from 6 Bishis, or
Saints, who are said to have dwelt there),
in N. lat. 12° 54', E. long. 79° 24',-—
formerly
the Karnatak, and of Payin Ghat, or
the country below the Maisur hills, and
still the principal place in the N. divi-
sion of the Colleetorate of the same
name, though the residence of the
British Collector is 28 miles distant, at
Chitti'ii',—is a city with 54,000 inhabi-
tants, on the right side of the Pfalfir liver,
which is here, during the rains, half a mile
wide. The town stands on an eminence,
which slopes down to the river’s bank;
but in s ite of this advanta e, it is one
of the Iiiottest places in ndia. The
neighbouring hills are of granite, and
being utterly destitute of vegetation, add
to the intense heat. On the N. side of
the Paler, which divides it from old
Arcot, is the cantonment, called by the
natives Rfinipét, where is accommodation
for 1 European and 2 native cavalry
regiments. At present there are no
troops at this station, except the head-
quarters of a Native Veteran Battalion.
The European barrack is built of brick,
with lime-mortar. Adjoining are three
hospitals and a church. The ruins of
the N fiwab's palace are still to be seen.
Two miles to the E. is extensive ground
for encamping, with abundant water.
The country is slightly undulating.
Arcot is a place of no great antiquity;
indeed, according to \Vi.lks, there are no
means of tracing its existence higher than
1716; far less can it be identified with
the Arcati regia Sara of Ptolemy. In
one of the Mackenzie MSS., however,
mentioned in the Madras Literary Jour-
nal, of January, 1838, two ehiefs—Na1a
Bomma-nayadu and Timma-nayadu—
are said to have built a stone fort there some
centuries back. Nothing more is heard
of it till, in 1698, Zu’l-faker llhan,
Aurangz'ib’s general, took the hill fort
of Jiiiji, when Arcot received one of
his lieutenants. It was not till 1712
the capital of the N fiwabs of“


40
Sect. I.
noun: 7.-Ancor—v1~:'1.U'n.
that a Muhammadan Governor of the
Karnatak, Sa'1ddu'l1ah K_han, tl1e first
who took the title of N uwab, removed
to Arcot from Jinji. It is chiefly cele-
brated as the lace where Clive, then a
captain, laid t e foundation of his re-
nown; and it may truly be said that
none of his subsequent exploits, brilliant
as they were, eclipsed his capture and
defence of this town. In July, 1751, he
had been promoted from lieutenant to
captain, and in the beginning of Au ust
of the same year, the Com any’s a airs
then being 111 a wretche position, he
volunteered to lead an expedition against
Arcot, with the view of divertin the
attention of Chanda Sahib an the
French from the siege of Tiichinapalli.
With 200 Europeans, 300 Sipéhis, and
but three officers, he advanced against this
stron fort, garrisoned by 1,100 men.
In spite of a terrific storm of thunder,
lightning, and rain, he marched on with
perfect uneoneern, and the garrison were
so terrified at his composure that they
deserted the fort. As soon as Clive had
entered it he was menaced b the enemy
in still greater numbers, an at last be-
sieged by an arm of 10,000 men, under
the command 0 Raja $ahib, son of
Chanda. After repeated daring sallies,
in one of which he inflicted great loss on
the enemy, Clive with his little garrison,
diminished by war and sickness to 80
Europeans and 120 Sipahis, finally re-
pulsed his assailants in a furious attempt
to storm the place by two practicable
breaches, one of which was 30 yards
wide. The assault was made on the 14th
of November, on the festival of the Mu-
harram, when the fanaticism of the
Mubammadans was inflamed to madness ;
yet, though the enemy attacked in 4 strong
columns at as many dilferent points, they
were totally defeated and driven back,
with the loss of twice as many men as
formed the whole English garrison. It
was during this siege that the Sipahis
gave that touching instance of dc-
votion to their young commander,
which Macaulay ranks above anything
recorded of the 10th Legion, or Napo-
leon's Old Guard. They came to Clive
and besought him to give the grain
rations to the Europeans, who needed


more support than Asiatics, while they
would content themselves with the thin
gruel strained from the rice.
After this success, Clive was joined by
300 English and 700 native soldiers,
upon which he hastened after Raja
Sahib, and gained a complete victory
over him, capturing his military chest.
The consequences of this battle were
most important to the British. Several
of the neivhbourin forts surrendered
without a blow, an many of Chanda
$al_iib’s allies deserted him. _
In 1758, Lally obtained possession of
the fortress by bribing the native gover-
nor; but in 1760 it was recaptured
from the French by Colonel Cootc. In
1780, Haidar ’Ali, after his victory at
Conjeveram, made himself master of
Areot, and eatly strengthened the for-
tifications; ut in the beginning of 1783,
Tipii abandoned the place, and ordered
two sides of the wall to be thrown down.
Subsequently it passed into the hands of
the British, along with the other pos-
sessions of the Nuwabs of the Karnatak.
It will be seen that the Palar river is
not crossed at Arcot, the bang-la being
on the left bank, nor till somewhat more
than three miles further on. The road
to Vélur now coasts the chain of hills
which command that place, and winds
among masses of rock and oves of wild
date (Elate Sylvestris), an the palmyra.
( g ) Vélzkr (Vellore), built by
Narsin h, Raja of Vidyanagar, after-
wards ijayanagar (or Beeyanuggur),
about the year 1500 A.D., for an occa-
sional residence, has been considered one
of the strongest places in India, thou h
it is completely commanded from t e‘
neighbouring hills. On the three loftiest
summits are forts, of which one only is
supplied with water. These still bear
the Maratha names they received from
Sliahji, the father of the celebrated
Sivaji.
In 1677, Sivaji took Vélfir from
the king of Vijayapur, in whose pos-
session it had been 31 years; the siege
lasted four months and a half. Its im-
portance is at an end now the whole
country is in possession of the En lish.
One native regiment is stationed ere,
but there are barracks, hospitals, maga.


Madras.
41
notrrn 7.—vaLtin—PALL1KoNm.
zines, and accommodation for a con-
siderable garrison. The ramparts are
built of very lar e stones, and have
bastions and roun towers at short dis-
tances. A fausse-bray lines the wall
between them, and with its embattle-
ments and small over-hanging square
towers produces a striking effect. A
deep and wide ditch, chieily cut out of
the solid rock, surrounds the whole fort,
except at one entrance, where there
was a causeway, according to the Indian
s stem. The whole much resembles
t e architecture of the ancient En lish
baronial castles. The ditch is led
with large alligators.
Lord Valentia mentions that a ser-
geant of the Scotch Brigade encountered
these monsters for a small wager. He
entered the water, and was several
times drawn under by these ferocious
animals; but escaped at last with seve-
ral severe wounds.
Tip\i’s children were formerly con-
fined here; and in the public square,
in which are the palaces they once
occupied, is a very beautiful pagoda,
built, about 4 centuries ago, by a
Hindu chieftain, and especially deserv-
ing of a visit. In front is a lofty gate-
way, with four armed statues of Krish-
na, of the blue color, which is his
usual characteristic. \Vithin is a noble
apartment, supported by ‘pillars, each
formed of a sin le stone, an carved with
astonishing elalmorateness. The pillars
in front represent figures on horseback,
and are very spirited. On the others
are carved the adventures of Krishna
with the Gopis, or Cow-herdesscs, among
whom his youth was passed in Vrinda-
van, near Mathura. 1n some places he
appears treading on the great serpent’s
head,—-a corruption, no doubt, of the
tradition derived from the prophecy in
Genesis. Facing the gateway are several
pagodas, of the Tan_]1ir style of archi-
tecture. '
Vélfir is a place of intense heat,
increased by radiation from the hills,
yet it is accounted healthy. In the
dry weather, the crossing the channel of
the Palar river is a very tedious opera-
tion, owing to the deep sand. The
locality acquires a painful interest for

the English traveller, from the recollec'-
tion of the dreadful mutiny of native
troops, which took place here on the
morning of the 10th June, 1806, when
Col. Fancourt and 12 other European
officers,‘scveral European conductors of
ordnance, and about 100 soldiers were
killed, and a eat number of oflicers
and men woun ed. This outbreak took
place partly from religious excitement
among the Sipahis, owing to the inno-
vations made in their dress, and partly
from the presence of Tipfi’s family, his
twelve sons and six daughters eing
confined in the Fort, along with several
hundreds of their connections and fol-
lowers. As the Sipahis fortunately
lacked a daring and skilful leader, the
mutiny was soon quelled by Colonel
Gillespie and a squadron of the 19th
Dragoons from the neighbouring station
of Arcot, and about 400 of the mutincers
were put to death. Subsequently, 3
native officers and 14 non-commissioned
ofiicers and privates were executed, ac-
cording to the sentence of court martial,
and the numbers of the guilty regiments,
the 1st and 23rd, were erased from the
Arm List.
(kl, Pallikomla. - At Verinchipuram is
a large temple, and another at Pallikonda,
within the fort. The name of the
latter si ifies, in Tamil, “sleeping,”
and is orrowed from an image in
the pagoda there, of Raghunath,
one of the forms of Vishnu, in a sleep-
ing posture. The country between
Velnr and Pallikonda exhibits no va-
riety of geological structure, but is in-
teresting, from the singularly wild and
beautiful character of its mountain
scenery. On the summits of the hills
masses of sycnite are grouped in the
most varied forms, sometimes shooting
up like spires, anon strewed around like
the ruins of some great edifice, or stand-
ing square and solid like the massive
walls and donjon keep of some robber
chieftain's tower. Thevallcys are covered
with similar blocks piled in the wildest
confusion, and seeming to tell of mighty
convulsions in the by-gone ages of the
world. Pallikonda is a large place,
with 20 shops, half a mile to the right
of the road. There is ground to the E.


42
Sect. I.
RoUTE 7.—TOTALAM—KRISHNAGADI, ETC.
of the banglá sufficient for two corps
to encamp. The water is from a nálah
and channels from the river. The nålahs
are bridged. The country is open and
level, with hills in the distance.
(i) Totalam is a place with 40
houses, two bázárs, and with but indif-
ferent encamping ground E. of the
village. The water is from the river;
the country is open and cultivated.
Ambarpét is a town with 1000 houses
and 40 shops. It is a place of very
active trade, and £by a number
of wealthy and enterprising merchants
of the Labbé class, who collect the coun-
try produce —sugar, clarified, butter,
chillies, etc., and transport it to Madras.
Near the town is a lofty isolated moun-
tain, on which are the ruins of a fort,
once deemed impregnable. The flat
ground on the summit is so extensive
as to have been formerly under cultiva-
tion; and there are two tanks near where
the barracks stood when the English
kept a garrison there. The view from
the summit is a noble one. The best
ground for encamping is N.E., of the
town, on sandy soil, and sufficient for
one corps. The supply of water is from
the river and a tank. The road im-
proves here. The country is hilly and
picturesque. The travellers , banglá
is a most excellent one. Indeed, all
along this road the banglås are worthy
of all praise. The beautiful chunam,
well-kept compound and hedge, excellent
stabling, and respectable well-behaved
peons, £ nothing to be desired. It
is true that crockery and hardware are
not supplied as in the banglás on the
Bombay side, a circumstance which en-
ables the traveller to dispense with some
articles of his canteen; but then no
charge is made, whereasin Bombay every
comer must pay for the use of the room.
(k) Vaniambaddi is also avery consider-
abletown, with 1000 houses and 150 shops.
There is £ ground for one corps
E. of the town. The Pălăr river is wide
and shallow, and flows on each side of the
town. The country is open, with hills
in the distance; at first thickly studded
with palm trees, and, further on, well-
cultivated. There is a good road hence
to Tripatar. In Waniambaddi are two
temples of great note. At that of Ish-
wara are about twenty inscriptions on
stone, some of which are fabled to be as
old as Wikramāditya—that is, in the
century before Christ. At the temple
of Wishnu, under the name of Allaba
Perumal, are six inscriptions of the date
of 1466, commemorating the grants of
villages to the temple by Hindú Rājās.
The nālah to be crossed before £
Nátarampalli is that of a stream whic
flows into the Pálár river, and must be
a difficulty in the rains, but at other
seasons it is almost dry. Natarampalli
has 60 houses and 4 shops. There is
encamping ground for two corps a little
off the road to the N., and on the bank
of the river. The road is sandy, but
made; the country is well-cultivated, and
generally level, with hills in the distance.
(l) Mallapaddi is a good-sized village.
There is indifferent encamping ground
E. of the town, in front ' the banglá,
on sandy soil, and with space sufficient
for one corps. Water is got from the
river. The road is made, but sandy.
The country, is tolerably level, with
occasional hills.
(m), Krishnagadi (or Kishnagherry)
is a large place, with extensive en-
camping ground 1% mile E. of the
village, on hard, sandy soil. There
is water from a tank close at hand,
and from the river at a distance. The
road is made. The country is in general
level, with abrupt rocky hills. Much
of the plain is rice-ground; but the soil,
though well watered, is poor. The Fort
of Krishnagadi is situate on a rock 700
feet in perpendicular height, and remark-
ably bare and steep. The road passes
through the jungle. No tigers, the in-
'" say, are heard of here now-a-
aVS.
') Kurambapatti is a village of 30
houses. No good encamping ground.
Water is procurable from the river, and
from wells. The road is made, but sandy.
The country is cultivated throughout;
and for a mile round the village is level
with small abrupt rocky hills. At the
little village of £d. road
begins to ascend the Eastern Ghats,
which divide the table-land of Maisür
from the Karnātak.


Madras.
43
ROUTE 8.—MADRAS To CHENGALPATT AND KARANGULI.
ROUTE 8.
MADRAS TO CHENGALPATT AND
KARANGULI. 48 M.
MILITARY AUTHORITY-Officer com-
manding Centre Division–Madras.
CIVIL AUTHORITY – Collector of
Chengalpatt-Pallikarni. STAGES.
PLACES. M. F. M. F.
From Wālājāh Gate of
Fort St. George to Ta-
nampét..................... 3 1
Mámill-amma (Marmalong)
bridge begins ... ..... • • •
Ditto ends ........... • * * * * * * 0 2
(a) ST. THOMAS'
MOUNT (Church)...... 22% 84
Minambákam b. ............ 2 0
Palaveram (Cantonment)t.o. 1 5}
Gulān Châwadi ............ 1 3}
Kadapairi Châwadi. 1 6
Irambuliyúr........ • • 1 5
Vandalir, b................... 2 3
GUDUVANCHERI, b, ... 33 14 2
Katankolatür ............... 3 2
Chingaperumal Kovil 3 6
Kazzakolipéta ......... ... 3 5
Chengalpatt (Fort)......... . 0 6
# CHENGALPATT, b.p.o. 0 6 12 1
itto ends .................. 0 5
Waimbákam..... 1 7
Pálár r. l. b. 1 2%
Ditto r. b. 0 5
Māmandúr ..... ... 0 5%
Pukaturé ............... ...... 16
x n. to Parāyan(ir ......... 0 6
Waluapākam ........ • * * * * * * 2 2
(c) KARANGULI, b. t. o. 3 2 13 1
48 0
(a) The Cantonment of St. Thomas'
Mount has already been partially de-
scribed (see Madras). On the 9th of
Feb. 1759, a battle took place here be-
tween Capt., Calliaud, advancing with
5,000 men (chiefly irregulars) and six
3-pounders to the relief of Madras, and
the French besieging force under Lally.
A deserted temple, still standing at the
N.E. corner of the present parade ground,
and Carvalho's garden were the two
oints on which Calliaud’s force rested.
he latter post was carried at the close
of the day by the enemy after the action
had £ from 5 a.m., with great spirit.
In spite of this success, Lally drew off
his troops just as Calliaud's ammunition
was almost exhausted. Upon this the
English commander retreated to Chen.
galpatt, with the loss of 220 killed and
wounded, of whom 20 were Europeans.
On the 2nd of April, 1769, a treaty of
peace was signed at the Mount between
Haidar 'Ali and the Madras Govern-
ment; and, in 1774, at the suggestion
of Colonel James, commanding the artil-
lery, the Mount became the head quar-
ters of that corps. Previous to this, the
artillery practice was carried on on the
shore, the firing being directed into the
sea. In 1780, the 73rd Highlanders,
with 400 other Europeans, about 1,200
in all, encamped here, intending to join
Baillie's force in his attack upon Haidar
'Ali. After the destruction of Baillie's
division, which they had been too late to
join, they retreated again to the Mount,
and to protect themselves against the
Marātha horse, threw up works, the re-
mains of which may be still seen cross-
ing the Palaveram plain from E. to W.
and S. of the Mount. The excavation still
bears the name of the Marātha ditch.
The Cantonment is of a very irregular
shape, about 1 mile long, and of varyin
width. Directly under the Mount, an
to the S. of it, are barracks for 2 bat-
talions of artillery; and St. Thomas'
Church, erected in 1825, with sittings
for 500 persons. Here is a marble bust,
by Chantrey, of Col. Noble, C.B. Tablets
to the memories of Col. Darville, Major
Oakes, Capt. Byam, and an obelisk in
the churchyard to Gen. Sydenham, may
also be noticed. At the foot of the
Mount steps is a neat Wesleyan Chapel,
and 200 yards to the N. of it a Roman
Catholic Chapel; E. of these lies the
Parade ground, which is very extensive;
and still further in the same direction is
the native town. At a short distance to
the W. of St. Thomas Church is the
Depôt for Instruction, where is a model-
room and a percussion-cap manufactory,
which supplies the whole army of this
Presidency. Still to the W. is the
Artillery mess-room, which is allowed
to be the finest in India. It is built in
the form of a double “T,” the S. cross
containing an excellent library, the N. a


44
Sect. I.
ROUTE 8.—KARANGULI TO PONDICHERI.
ball-room. In the dining-room, which
can accommodate 80 persons without in-
convenience, are two good portraits of
Gen. Montgomerie, C.B., and Col. Noble,
C.B. Proceeding still further W., the visi-
torcomesto the Horse Artillery lines. On
the shoulder of the Mount, overlooking
them, is a granite column erected by the
men of the H. Artillery to Col. Noble,
(b) Chengalpatt, the capital of the
Collectorate of the same name, and a
Zila-court station, was formerly a place
of some strength, and is still surrounded
by a rampart and deep ditch, 2 miles in
circumference, though the wall is much
dilapidated and the ditch dry in the hot
season. Orme makes the wall 18 feet
high, and the ditch 60 feet wide.
The Fort is situated on the N. extre-
mity of a valley upwards of a mile long,
and is bounded on the E. and part of the
N. face by an artificial lake 2 miles lon
and 1 broad, which supplies the ditc
with water. The Fort is 400 yards long
from N. to S., and 280 broad from E. to
W. It is divided into 2 parts by a ram-
part and a ditch; the E., which is called
the inner fort, being considerably ele-
vated. The W. face and part of the N.
are bounded by rice fields irrigated from
the lake, the water of which is pent in
by an embankment 1000 yards in length,
on the top of which runs the high road
leading . from Madras. Small, rocky,
bare hills lie S. and N. of the Fort, but
the country is in general level and open.
This fort was taken from the French by
Clive in Oct. 1752, after a resistance of
some days.
The Town of Chengalpatt lies 3 mile
to the S.E. of the Fort, and consists of
1 long street. The Pălăr river runs
about a mile to the W. of it. There
was a manufacture of pottery here, which
attracted the attention of Government
in 1841, and received a grant of 2,000
rupees per annum for 2 years. It has
now been removed to Madras.
The Gaol, Place of Arms, Hospital,
and Court House are within the Fort.
The station is considered healthy.
(c) Karanguli is a village of about
200 houses. N. of it there is extensive
and excellent ground for encamping,
with a tank close by. To the W. of
this, at the distance of about 15 miles,
is the travellers' banglá. From this
lace there are two main roads, one to
'richinápalli and the other to Pondi-
cheri; the principal stations being as
follows:–
KARANGULI To TRICHINAPALLI.
150 M. 3 F.
MILITARY AUTHORITY—Officer com-
manding Centre Division—Madras, as far
as Tulu-ár. Thence to Trichinápalli:
Officer commanding S. Division-Tri-
chinapalli.
CIVIL AUTHORITY – Collector of
£ — Pallikarni, as far as
boundary after Acherapākam. Thence
to Tulu-lir : Collector of S. Arcot–
Güdalur. Thence to Trichinápalli:
Collector of Trichinápalli–Trichind-
palli. STAGES.
PLACES M. F.
£ 0, t. 9............... 10 6
Konarikuppam"...... .... 8 4
Tindevānam....... 8 0
Wallangambaddi ... 8 0
Vikravandi, b........................ 7 7
Willapuram, or Belpur, b. t. o. ... 7 1
Arristir................................ 9 3
Ulandürpét, b. t. 0. ... 13 7
Assandr, b........... 8 0}
Kydi-ūr, b..... 10 7
Tulu-ár, b........... 9 4
Walkundapuram, b. 8 1
Turaimangalam, b. . 6 4
Pādalūr ............. .... 10 3
Samiaveram, b.............. .... 13 0
Trichinápalli Cantonment........ . 10 3}
150 3
KARANGULI TO PONDICHERI.
48 M. 7 F.
MILITARY AUTHORITY—Officer com-
manding C. Division–Madras.
CIVIL AUTHORITY – Collector of
Chengalpatt–Pallikarni, as far as boun-
dary after Acherapākam. Thence to
Yeranjen Châwadi after Killianúr: Col-
lector of S. Arcot–Güdalur. Thence to
Pondicheri: French Government—Pon-
dicheri.
* Tbe old, line, given in the Road-book
through Wallakuir has been abandoned.


Madras. RouTE 9.—MADRAS TO
CHITTUR AND PALMANER. 45
STAGES.
PLACES. M. F.
Acherapākam, b, t. o................ ... 10 6
Yaipäkam................ ... 11 0
Killianár........... . 13 5
Pondicheri, b. p. o.............. ... 13 4
ROUTE 9. 48 7
MADRAs To CHITTúR AND PALMANKR.
124 M. # F.
MILITARY AUTHORITY—Officer com-
manding Centre Division–Madras.
CIVIL AUTHORITY—To Dámal, be-
yond Balchetti Chattram: Collector of
Chengalpatt–Pallikarni. From Dámal
to Palmanér: Collector of N. Arcot–
Chittir. STAGES.*
PLACES. M. F. M. F.
Punamalli, b & t. o. ....... ... 12 4
Shri Perumbudür, b. & t. o... ... 13 0
Rājā Chattram, b........... • * 14 2
Balchetti Chattram, b...... . ... 10 2
Wocheri Chattram, b........ - - - 8
Arcot (to church), b, & p. o. 12
rd to Chittúr.................
x 3 m. to Narsingapuram...
x Poinér. 33 furlongs wide,
to Trivellam, b........... •
Pudumottir.........
SAIRKAD ...
Mustürkuppa
0
5
#
#
9 7%
Chinna Bomasamudram....
x n. to Timyapalli..........
x 4 m. to NARHARI-
PETA, b............... • • • -
8 0
Chimalapalli.. •
Mutkürpalli............ •
x Dumagunta Ghât to
Annapapilli............. • • *
Gangaságaram.. • * *
Reddigunta ..... • • - e.
Greenpéta........... • * * * * * * * * *
# CHITTUR, b. t. o. ...
angarpalli...................
Veruwaram................... •
x Newna r. 110 yards wide
to Waragapalli...........
Mudureddipalli....
BAIRIPALLI.
Gunalkattamanji
Nallasantapalli...............
x 3 n. to Danduwaripalli..
:
9 4
6 7
•
|
|
* See Route 7 for the first six places men-
tioned.
STAGES.
PLACES. M. F. M. F.
x n. to Bangarázupálliam.. 16
WENKATAGADI, b....... 0 6 7 6
x n. to Balamagulapalli... 1 5
Balijaipalli............ ... 1 1
Mugli, b............. * * * * * * * * * * 1 6
x n. to Mugli Pass begins 0 3
Ditto ends............ • * * * * * . 4 4
Yellampalli.... .... 0 6
Madigapalli................... 0 1
(b) PALMANER, b & t. o. 1 1 11 3
124 0}
The route, as far as Arcot, has been
already described (see R. 7). From that
city it takes a N.W. direction, passing,
at the distance of 5% miles from Arcot,
the Poiné river, called, by Thornton,
“Puni,” and by Wilks, “Poony,” an
affluent of the Pălăr. This stream, dur-
ing the monsoon, is more than a quarter
of a mile broad, but in the dry season
sinks to a rivulet. A large bridge across
it at Trivellam is just completed. Pass-
ing Sairkad, a smallvillage with 10 wells
and a tank, and Narharipéta, a cluster
of two or three villages together, the
traveller reaches Chittir, which may be
regarded as the capital of N. Arcot, in-
asmuch as it is the residence of the chief
civilfunctionaries, and contains the “Sub-
ordinate Court” and “Civil Court,” which
latter is a Court of Appeal, substituted
by Art. VII. of 1843, of the Government
of India, for the one Provincial Court
which formerly existed here. About
200 Sipáhis are quartered there, and
both the civil and military officers reside
in commodious houses on the S.E. and
S.W. sides, in compounds thickly planted
with trees.
(a) Chittir lies in a valley said to be
1,100 feet above the sea, shut in on all
sides but the E. by hills composed of
coarse granite, gneiss and greywacke, and
veined occasionally with iron ore. The
native town is ill-drained, and the ex-
halations make it very unhealthy. Ele-
wated a little above it is the lower fort,
containing the old palace of the former
Păligărs or chiefs of the place, and a
reservoir supplied from a tank above with
a perpetual stream of fine water. From
this is the ascent of the Drug, or upper


* *
46
fort, under six successive gateways, at
different heights, and traversing a laby-
rinth of fortifications, all of solid ma-
sonry, and winding £ up from
rock to rock, to the summit. The ascent
is partly by steps and partly by almost
superficial notches, cut in the steep and
smooth surface of the rock, and to be
scaled only with great difficulty. The
fort contains two beautiful tanks, various
temples, and a deep magazine, well sunk
in the rock. There is not much histo-
rical interest about Chittúr; the English
suffered a reverse here, when the fort
was taken from them on the 11th of Nov.,
1781, by Haidar 'Ali, and the garrison,
consisting of 1 battalion, destroyed. The
gaols, which can contain 800 prisoners,
and are well managed, may be inspected
by those to whom such matters are of
interest.
About3} miles to the E.N.E. of Chittúr
are the ancient sepulchres of Panduvaram
Déwal, which are well and minutely de-
scribed by Capt. Newbold in his paper,
Art. IV. Vol. XIII., of the Roy. As Soc.
Journal. These tombs cover an area of
more than a square mile. The majority
of them have been thrown down chiefly
by the Wadras, the Indian stonemasons.
Some few, however, are still standing,
and present a striking similarity to the
cromlechs of Wales, such, for instance,
as those at Plas Newydd, in Anglesea,
and to the ancient tombs in Circassia.
There is, first, a Druidical circle of up-
right stones. Within this is the tomb,
like a huge box, composed of 4 slabs, and,
of these, that which forms the roof projects
about 18 inches beyond the sides. The
roof-slab of one tomb is 13 ft. by 12 ft.,
and averages 4} in thick. Through one
of the side slabs is cut a hole about 18 in.
in diameter. The terra cotta sarcophagi
containing the bodies are placed on the
floor-slab, and are covered to the depth
of 3 or 4 ft. with earth. They are filled
with bones and hard earth; and ele-
gantly-shaped earthen vases are found
near them. Iron spear-heads and swords
are sometimes met with. Similar tombs
are found at the Nilgiris and other places,
but nowhere in such numbers as at this
spot. All account of their origin is lost
in the dimness of antiquity.
RouTE 10.—MADRAs"To GUNTUR, BY NELLUR, ETC.
Sect. I.
From Chittúr, the road passes due W.
through Bairipalli, an insignificant vil-
# of 30 houses, and through the town
of Venkatagadi to that of Palmanér.
(b) Palmanér.—About 2 miles before
this, an ascent commences at the Mugli
Pass, and Palmanér is 1,200 ft. above
Chittúr, being no less than 2,312 ft.
above the marine surface. This great
elevation gives to Palmanér a climate
far superior to that of Chittir, to
which it serves as a sanatarium. The
temperature is 8° less, and the nights are
always £ cool, while the fresh-
ness of the morning air invites to exercise.
At 1 m. 2.f. distance from Palmanér.W.
is the village of Nellagutalpalli, which
forms the boundary of the Centre D. The
road to Bengalúr then passes into the
Maisür D.
ROUTE 10.
MADRAs To GUNTöR, BY suLóRPär,
NELLóR(NELLORE),ANGULA(oNGoLE);
GUNT.6R (251M.4 F.), AND BAIzwARA,
271 M.4 F.
MILITARY AUTHoRITY-To Krishna
r., after Mangalagadi, Officer command-
ing Centre Div.–Madras.
CIVIL AUTHORITY – To Salt-water
Inlet after Puduwoil: Collector of Chen-
galpatt—Pallikarni. Thence to Pudi
after Arambák: Collector of N. Arcot–
Chittir. To Boundary after Dudukür:
Collector of Nellir—Nellir. To Krishna
r. after Mangalagadi: Collector of Gun-
túr-Guntur. STAGES.
PLACES. M. F. M. F.
From Wālājāh Gate of Fort
St. George, x 3 n. to
Mādaveram ...............
x 2 n. to Kārkhānah or
Puli line ..................
PALWAICHATTRAM,5.
Chambeliwáram.............
Cholawāram..........
Korteli-ár, r. r. b...
Ditto l, b.......
Neduvárambákam.....
PUDUWOIL, t. 9....
X Arni, r.............
Kávéripét...............
Páta Gumudipundi, b.
Wobalapuram.......... -
x Salt-water Inlet...........
7
0
#


Madras.
p r-
GUNTUR, BY NELLUR, ETC.
ROUTE 10.—MADRAs To
PLACES.
Rāmapuram..................
(a) ARAMBAK, b..........
Pudi........ • * * * * * * * * *
Tada Chattram.. - -
Bolingampádu ...............
x 4 n. to Akamapét.........
x 2 n. and Kalangi, r......
(b) SULURPET, b.........
x 4 n. to Uparapalliam....
x 3 m. to Akarapākam......
DHORAWARI, or NAIDU
CHATTRAM, t. o...
Nalabali..... -
Beradavada...................
x 3 n. to Naidupét, t. 9....
x 3 m. to Suwarnamukhi,
r. r. b............... • * * * * * * *
Ditto, l.b................. •
x 4 n. to WUJELLI, b...
Rājupälliam................. •
Putr tah..................
£:
Writer Chattram..... - -
x 4 n. to Chelakur..........
x 3 n. to GUDUR, b.......
x 11 m. to Manubol.........
Krishnamáchári Chattram
x 4 n. to Govindapudi......
x 2 n. to VENKATACH-
ELAM'S CHATTRAM,b.
x 2 n. to Chamadugunta...
Commandant's Chattram...
(c) x n. to NELLUR,
b. p. o. (enter).............
Ditto leave................
Ponnar, r. r. b....... • • * * * * * *
Ditto, l.b............ • • * - - -
x 6 n. to Kovir (centre)...
x7 n.to KODAVELUR,b.
x n. to Damaigunta ........
x 3 n. to Mopur Chattram
ALLUR, b...................
x 3 m. to Sidhanapālam....
x 2 Salt-water inlets to
Koladenna............... • •
x n. to MAWILADO-
RUVU, b.............. • * * * *
x n. to Köta Chattram.....
Chinnapalliam...............
x Salt-water inlets to
Rahvir.............. •- - - - - -
RAMYAPATANAM,
b. t. o. ..... • - - - - - - - - - - -
# 13 4
#|
#
9
2
15 1
1
1
1
|
:
1
4
0
9
0
%
3
9
0
!
1
4
5
1 5 11.6
PLACES.
x Salt-water r. to Chauki-
cherla.......................
Subharayan Chattram..
x Maneru n ................. 2
Manatukót................... 2
x Manerur. 200 yds. broad 1
x 2 n. to SINGHARAI-
KONDA, b................
Somarajapalli... - - - -
Naravaripalliam ...
Betragunta ....
Pálár r. r. b.
Ditto, l.b. ...... - - - -
TANGATUR, b.............
× n. to Musir. 200 yds. wide 2
Naidupalliam ....... • • * * * * * *
x n. to Ulúr...... • * * *
x n. to Belár .............. •
(d) x n to ANGULA (On-
gole) to N. of Fort, b. t. o.
Potarajá n. ...... • * * * * * * * *
Muktanululah ...............
x 2 bridged n. to Trovagunta 0
Maderalapád ...............
x Adda Vágu n. to r. b. of
Gundlakamma r..........
CHEDULWADA .........
Nágulupalapád, b. ..
£• * * * * * * - -
x Kongalavágu n. .........
x Rallavágun. to Ráchapudi
A Tank......... • • * * * * *
DUDUKUR
x Parakadivágun. to Koneki
x Konekivágun. to Ganga-
Veran ............... • * * * * *
Attiyaru n. ..................
Small Tank, Boundary ...
INKULA, b. t. o. .........
::
2|3
X *. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Wankayalapád...
Nutulapád ..................
x NAKKAKALWA r. to
PARCHUR, b. .........
x bridged n. to Podavāda
x Sakikalva r. to Adusu-
mallé ..............
Chinnameddipad
Nalamada n. (bridged) ...
NANDIPAD ...............
Buragavágu n. (bridged)...
|
##
:
|
:
#
13 3
7 7
12 0
8 3
6 1
12 0


48
Sect. I.
* p / *
ROUTE 10.—ARAMBAK-SULURPET.
STAGES.
PLACES. M. F. M. F.
Waragāni................. ... 0 2
x4 n. to Abbareddigunta-
palliam.................... . 3 3
x n. four times to PRATI-
PAD, b. t. o. ............ 4 0 8 4
Luyavágun.................. 1 0}
Takkareddipalliam ......... 0.4}
x Walagalakalwa to Koia-
waripalliam ............... 1 5
Kurunutula.................. 1 7
x n. (bridged) to Yatukùr 36
(e) GUNTUR, b. t. 9. .... 2 4 113
x 2 n. (bridged) to Akatar-
Pădu........................ 2 3
Kákani 2 1
Káza..... 5 0
Kukakákeri.................. 1 3
MANGALAGADI, b. t. o. 2 1 13 0
Yerrapalliam ............... 1 5
Tādapalli..................... 3 0
x n. (bridged) to Sítána-
garam .......... - - - - 1 1
Krishna r. r. b. ............ 01
Ditto, l.b. ............ ... 1 0
BAIZWARA, b. t. o....... 0 1 70
271 4
As soon as the traveller has left the
suburbs of Madras, with their numerous
arden houses and park-like enclosures,
£, his first feeling will be one of
surprise how such verdure and so plea-
sant a habitationforman, as thesesuburbs
are, could have been created in the bare
and sandy waste into which he is
emerging. There is no good halting
place until Arambák is reached. At
Madavaram, a small village, whence
the Tamil Vaishnavas brin £
of firewood for sale into Madras, the
old road ceases to be practicable for
horses. On this account, a new road
was opened last year by the Red Hills,
where is the first station, distant 9m. 6f.
from the capital, and thence to Cham-
belivaram, where the old road is joined,
is 4 m. 2.f. While at the Red Hills
station, the traveller, if curious in such
matters, may inspect some ancient tombs
about 2 m. W. of the lake at that place,
and 11 m. N.W. of Madras. They are
similar to the tombs described in R. 9,
at Panduváram Déwal, near Chittúr,
but smaller. For a further account of
them see Madras Journal, vol. viii., p.
346 (No. 6). The roads in this quar-
ter till within a very late period were,
indeed, execrable, but the Trunk Road."
from Madras to Ganjām is now complete
the whole way from the Presidency town
to Angula. ' stream, too, between
Madras and Nellir has been bridged
£ the Suwarnamukhi. Carriages
can drive the whole distance at any speed
that may be desired.
From the desolate-looking banglá
at Gumadipundi not a tree is to be seen.
Between Gumadipundi and Arambák, a
vast plain, in parts overflowed with salt
water, and unclothed with even a single
shrub, stretches on, and on, before the
eye. Only, on the left, a distant rim of
cocoa nut trees breaks the monotony,
above whose tops rises a faint blue line
of hills. The strong and peculiar saline
smell, and the desolation, remind the
traveller of the Dead Sea. Towards
Arambák, rice fields begin to appear,
and then a few clumps of trees and scat-
tered hamlets.
(a) Arambdkitself is an oasis of shady
tamarind trees in the bare plain just de-
scribed. In front is seen the bright mir-
ror-like surface of the creek of Palikat;
behind, the spurs of the Ghâts run down
closer and closer upon the road. The
banglá here is small but comfortable.
Though the country would be, but for
man's labour, a vast salt desert, still it
must be owned, improvements are made
every year. The consumption of fuel is
so great at Madras that the low jungle
is all cut and carried off thither, and in
its stead rice fields gain ground daily.
Numerous wells are being sunk every
year; and at the village of Tada, be-
tween Arambak and Sulúrpét, where a
few £ back scarce a well was to be
found, there are now a considerable tank
and a still larger lake, both artificial.
(b) Sulürpétis a considerable village.
Hence there is water carriage to Madras.
(See R. #. The Kalangi river, which
is crossed before reaching it, is about 150
yards broad. Hence the stage is often
continued to Nallaballi, in preference to
halting at Dhorawári.
The Suwarnamukhi river, which must


Madras.
49
norrrn 10.—cuniin—-imtriin.
be crossed between Nalabali andWujelli,
rises in lat. 13° 26', long. 79° 11’, and
falls into the sea in lat. 14° 8’, long. 80°
11', after a course of 99 miles.
Gudwkr is a very considerable village,
or rather small town, 20 m. from the sea.
The bangla is S. of it, and 1} a m. W.
from the road. It stands close to an
extensive artificial lake, which supplies
good fish to the traveller. All round
this place there is much verdure and
cultivation, but the sand and jungle
commence again at -Manubol.
(0) Nelhtr, capital of the collectorate
of the same name, is situate on the right
bank of the N. Ponnar, and about 18
miles from the lace where that river
enters the sea. t has a population of
about 24,000, and there are more Mu-
hammadans here than are usually found
in the towns of the Madras provinces to
the north. Here are the residences of
the collector and the chief civil autho-
rities. The town stands well, on toler-
ably high ound, with a red and
lateritious soi , and is green with cluster-
ing folia e, being well irrigated from
tanks an numerous wells. On the W.
is a very large tank supplied with water
b_y the river, and to thc E. are extensive
rice fields, also copiousl irrigated from
tanks and canals cut m the river.
The houses of the English residents are
S. of the town, on the E. bank of the
lake.
To the S.E. of the town is a 'ail
which can receive 800 persons. he
town itself has some ood streets, but in
general it is crampe and crowded, and
ve irregularl built. The old fort
an rampart w 'ch surrounded the town
have fallen to ruins. In 1753, Nellfir
was taken from Na'ibu’l1ah, the brother
of the Nfiwab o the Karnatak, by
Muhammad Kamel, an adventurer, and
held for a year. After this, Kamal, in an
attempt u on Tripetti, bein defeated by
the joint orces of the Englis and of the
Niiwab, was taken prisoner and instantly
beheaded. On the 2nd of Ma , 1757,
Colonel Forde, with a large lmdy of
auxiliaries furnished by the Nfiwab,
attempted to recover that lace from
Najibu’llah, who was in rebellion against
his brother. Najibu’llah himself de-

serted Nelliir, but left a gallant oflicer
in char e of the fort, who defended it
most va iantly, and repulsed the storm-
ing parties of the English, killing and
wounding nearly 100 of them. At that
time, the walls extended 1,200 yards
from E. to W., and 600 from N. to S.,
and were of mud; only the gateways
and a few towers being stone.
In 1787, a peasant who was ploughin
near N ellfir, found his plough stoppeg
by some brickwork. On digging at the
spot, he discovered the remains of a
small Hindu temple, and from beneath
the masonry he took out a pot, contain-
ing Roman coins and medals of the
second century, 4.1). These he sold as
old gold; and the larger number were
melted down, but about 30 were saved
from the fusing operation. They were
all of the purest old, and many of
them quite fresh an beautiful. Some,
however, were defaced and perforated as
if they had been worn as ornaments.
They were most of them of the time of
Tralan, Adrian, and Faustina.
In 1801 several copper mines were
discovered in the collectorate of N ellur,
in the Zamindari of Kiilastri, 50 miles
N.W. of the town of Nelliir, and 30
from the sea. Specimens were sent
home and tried in the Tower mint.
One specimen of 20 cwt. yielded 9 cwt.
of pure cop er. The specimens were
declared to e remarkably fusible, very
free from iron, and consequently well
adapted for sheathing. The mines were
leased to a contractor for 5 years,
but proved a failure, probably on ac-
count of the want of fuel, and are given
u .
pBesides the eat N. road leading to
Ganjam and t e frontiers of Bengal,
there are two principal roads from
Nelliir into the interior, the one lcadin
to Kadapa, in the Oedad Districts; an
the other by Kammam to Haz'dar-
a'ba'd, the capital of the Niga'm’s cou/ntry,
and to the military station of S1'kandar-
a'bdd.*
* A first-class road has also been made from
Neilur to the coast at Krishpapatanani; of
great value for the ti-aiflc in salt with the
interior. Other roads traversing these dis-
tricts from E. to W. are in course oi’ forma-
tion. 3


- 50
Sect. I.
RouTE 10.—NELLöR, KADAPA, HAIDARAEXD, ETC.
The distances and routes are as fol-
lows:–
1.—NELLúR To KADAPA, 112 M. 1 F.
STAGES.
PLACES. M. F.
Nellór Fort Gate to Duvair......... 12 5
Kolagotla ..... •- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 11 0
Pattépádu.............................. 5 5
Iska Dewapalli 10 3
Upalpád...... 8 1
Guntanelpár.... 11 6
Gopawaram ........................... 11 2
Budawél, t. o. . 4 4
Uttimarragu...... 9 6
Nandialampét......................... 8 2
Kazipet................................. 6 0
KADAPA.............................. 12 7
112 1
The only town on this road is Buda-
wel, which is the capital of a Taluk.
From Upalpad there is a road to Kadapa,
nearer than the above by 18 m. 33 f.
The stages are– M. F.
Yepperal........... - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 8 4
Kötapád... • * * * * * * ... 11 3
Sidháwat............ ... ... 11 3
KADAPA............. •- - - - - - - - - - 10 2}
41 4+
This road, at present bad and imprac-
ticable for £ traffic, it is in contem-
plation to improve.
2.—NELLöR. To HAIDARABAD AND SI-
KANDARABAD, BY KAMMAM.
311 M. 3}. F. STAGES.
PLACES. M. F. M. F.
From Nelluír Fort N. Gate
to Duvar ................. 12 7
Chirumana ... ... 13 7
Kalligadi, t. 0. ... 11 0
Bámanpalli... ... 10 6
Iyankóta...... ... 134
Cherlupalli........ • * * * * * * * * * 10 2
Durgam, or Kannagadi... 11 1
Patapadu...:::.............. 11 2
Kālajuwalapád.... 5
Tarlapádu...... * * * * * * * * ..... 10 6
KAMMAM FORT, t. o. 10 0 127 0
x Gundlakamma r. to En-
camping Ground ...... 8 2
Markapur, t. 9............ , 77%
Kacherlakóta 8 0}
Dupar Fort ...... 6 5:
Komarol ................... 13 6
PLACES. STAGES.
M. F. M. F.
An open space............. 13 0
Kandalgunta....... . 11 6
Gopanair........ • 8 7
Yeleshwaram... 10 1
Suryaraopéta .. 10 1
Peruwälä........ 9 0
Dewakunda .... 9 5
Mallareddipalli. 8 6
Kurumpalli........ 9 2
Gurkonda........ 7 2
Yáchewaram....... ... 8 2
Peddagangaram ... 13 6
Nizāmnagar............... 11 1
Haidarābād Residency, p.o. 40
SIKANDARABAD, p.o. 4 7 311 3:
Between Nellūr and Kammam the
only places of any size are Duvar, Kalli-
gadi and Tarlapadu, all very large vil-
lages, and the second the residence of a
Tahsildar. . From Kunnagadi to Kam-
mam there is a more direct but not easy
road by the following places:-Dodi-
chintla, 8 miles; Yéma'd, 8; pass
the Yémalpád Ghât to Nagalmarragu,
7 m. 3 f.; Kammam, 11 m. 2 f.; total,
34 m. 5f. From Kammam to Dewa-
kunda the road is very bad, in some
places a mere footpath through thick jun-
gle. However, on £ or in a pa-
lankeen, the traveller may proceed very
well, and find excellent shooting at seve-
ral of the stages. The only places of
any size and importance are Markapur,
Kacherlakóta, and Dewakunda itself,
where there is a detachment of the
Nizam's troops.
The Pennár or Ponnar river, through
all its long course of 300 miles, has been
made little use of for irrigation until it
reaches Nellir, where an Anakatt is
now constructed, which renders an in-
creased supply of water available for the
canals, which already irrigate the E.
part of the collectorate. This Anakatt
was finished in August, 1855, at an ex-
pense of £8,000. The subsidiary chan-
nels, however, have still to be laid
down, the irrigation being now carried
On ' the old channels from the river,
but their capacity is insufficient.
After leaving Nellir the first town is
Kovár, which has about 600 houses.
Kodavelür is about 200 yards to the E. of


a *
51
Arcot–Giudalur. Thence to Kynea
Kovil: French Territory. Thence to
Porto Novo : Collector of S. Arcot–
Güdalür.
PLACES. STAGES.
M. F. M. F.
Madras to SADRAS, b.t.o.
(See Route 3).............. .40 4
x an Inlet ...... - - - -
x ditto.........
Wailir ......
Pălăr r. V. b. • * * * * * *
Ditto, r. b. ..................
Wapencheri...................
x n. to Gādalūr (Cuddalore)
x n. to Arrayalancheri ...
Kowattir .....................
Ténpatnam ..
# • - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
x an Inlet to CHIKANA-
KUPPAM.................
Linga Chetti Châwadi......
x an Inlet 5% furlongs broad
Mutukadu ..... • * * * * * * * * - - -
Muniapallé Châwadi ...... 2
Panićir Chattram............ 1
ALAMPARWA, b. ........ ... 2
Ténpäkam
x an Inlet to Núwáb's
Châwadi ..................
Komati Chávadi.. - -
KUNIMODE ...............
Ranganadapuram Châwadi
Putupallu Châwadi.........
Rangapilli Châwadi..... ...
Bammanapálliam............
Kandapa Châwadi .........
Kotta Kuppam...............
Mattalpéta ..... • • • - - - - - - - - •
Puducheri, Madras Gate....
(a) PUDUCHERI, Gódalir
Gate, b. & p.o............. 1
Mudeliárpét.............. .... 0
x 7". # yards wide to
a Kuppa Ill ........ • * * * * *
c: ?'................
x ditto 440 yards wide to
Taulakuppam ........... •
Wānakāra Chávadi.........
Mullatār r. ...... • • - - - - - •
Reddi Chávadi -
Kynea Kovil ..... -
Ponnár Chávadi........ • *-
x ford 681 yards wide to
MANJI #U' b. &p.o. 0
13 3
|
8 6
13 3
|
|
12 1
|
2
0}
3}
5
6
1
0
2
2
7
3
3
3
7
1
6
1
4
6
0
2
3
1
4
6
0
6
3
5
0
0
7
7
0
2
6
5
5
4
6
5
Madras. ROUTE 11.—MADRAs To PUDUCHERI, GUDALUR, ETC.
theroad. Theroad, thoughsandyinplaces,
is upon the whole good to Ongole.
(d) Vangaolu, or according to Hamil-
ton, Angula, corrupted by the English
into Ongole, is a considerable town, and
a military station. The Road Book,
probably by a typographical error, states
the number of houses to be only 200.
It formerly belonged to Kadapa, but
was transferred to the Nüwab of the
Karnātak, and from him acquired by the
English in 1801. The great road to
Haidarābād passes through this station.
(See Route 18).
The Gundlakamma river, which is
crossed between Angula and the next
stage, is 385 yards wide, and always
contains water sufficient for a large
force. The 2 n, in the next stage are
an obstruction in the rainy season.
There is no place of importance until
Guntur is reached.
(e) Guntur is a town with about
26,000 inhabitants, and the capital of
the collectorate of the same name. It is
situate about 40 miles from the sea, and
18 from the river Krishna. Towards
the coast the country is flat and open,
but a few miles towards the N.W. a
range of hills commences. The houses
of the collectors and the other officials
and the Courts of Justice, are to the
N. and W. of the town. The town is
divided into the old and new town. It
has been much improved of late, and is
considered remarkably healthy. In
1816 it was pillaged by the Pindaris,
The next station, Mangalagadi is a
very large village. An account of the
Krishna river, and of the town of Baiz-
wdra will be found in Route 15, N.D.
ROUTE 11.
MADRAs To PUDUCHER1 (PoNDICHERRY)
88 M. 1 F.), GöDALöR (CUDDALORE),
100 M. 5 F.), AND PoRTo Novo,
125 M. 3 F.
MILITARY AUTHORITY-Officer com-
manding Centre Division—Madras.
CIVIL AUTHORITY—From Sadras to
Inlet after Pallikarni: Collector of
Chengalpatt-Pallikarni. Thence to
Kandapa Chávadi: Collector of S.
11 7


52
Sect. I.
noun: ll.—I‘UDUCHEB.I.
PLACES. srsons.
M. F. M. r.
(6) Gfidaluir 0/»z'ef’s house
New Town ...... .... .. 0 5
Chonian Chawadi, b. .... .. 9 1
Pudu Chattram, b. 6 7
(0) PORTO NOVO, 8 6
125 3
(u) Puducheri. — There is nothing
remarkable on the road between Sadras
and Puducheri. The small town of
Alamparva, which is passed on the way,
has some wells of fine water, the bcst on
the coast. There is a good hotel, at
Puducheri, as well as a traveller’s bangle.
The char e at th‘e hotel is 5 francs a day
for boar and lodgin ; whereas it is 5
rupees at English hote at Madras, ctc. ;
moreover, the French cuisine is superior,
t ou.gh the apartments are not so good.
n the same way, the wages of servants
are only half what is given in the
English settlements; being, at Madras,
7 rupees; at Puducheri, 3%. Puducheri
itsclf—though a handsome town, with
avenues of fine trees—has declined
from its former flourishing condition,
when it was reckoned one of the finest
towns in India. This was before it
was taken by Colonel (afterwards Sir
Eyre) Coote, who leveled its fortifica-
tions, and injured it to such an extent
that it never afterwards entirely re-
covered. Nevertheless, Lord Valentia,
in 1804, renounced it the handsomest
town he ad seen in India, except Cal-
cutta. The proper name is Puducheri,
“ new village,” though the English, with
their usual cleverness, have metamor-
phoscd it into Pondicherry; it is situated
in a sandy plain, not far from the sea
shore, where only palm trees, millet, and a
few herbs are produced. The Arya-
kuppam river flows into the sea, close
to the S. side, and forms there a small
isle called “Cocoa-nut Island." This
river is only deep enough to admit
coasting craft of small burden; but it
adds to the strength of the place. On
the N.W. are hills, the chief of which is
called the Red Hill. From the N. to
the Aryakup am river the town was de-
fended, in a dition to its other fortifica-
W--is, by a bound hedge, which enclosed


seven square miles of ground, and was a
very formidable obstacle to a besieging
force. The surf, though somewhat less
dangerous than that of Madras, is still
impracticable for European boats. Ships,
in fine weather, may anchor abreast of
the town, within three-quarters of a mile
of the shore, in 6 fathoms; but at stormy
seasons, it is wiser to lie in 14 fathoms
in the outer roads. The town is regu-
larly built, and is divided by a canal into
two parts, the \Vhite Town to the E.
near the shore, and the Black Town to
the W. In the centre of White Town
is a handsome square, of which Govern-
ment House forms one side. This and
the Church of Foreign Missions; the
bazar, built in 1836; and a lighthouse,
which shows a light 89 ft. above the
sea, are the most remarkable buildin s.
There are two missions—that of t e
Jesuits, and the Missions Etrangercs.
The latter have Bishops at Madras,
Puducheri, Trichinapalli, Koimbatiir,
and Benvalfir.
Puduclicri is the capital of the French
possessions in India, and the seat of the
supreme government. The places under
its authority are Karikal on the Coro-
mandel coast; Yanam, and the lodge of
Machlfpatanam, on the Orissa coast;
Mahe, and the lodge of Kolikod Calicut),
on the Malabar coast; andChan anagar,
in Bengal, on the Hugli. Of these, the
first is 47 miles distant from Tanjfir to
the E., and contains an area of 63 square
miles, with a population of 49,307 per-
sons, of whom 43 are Europeans ; Yanfun
is in the province of Rajamahéndri, 9 m.
from the embouchure of the Godavarf,
and has an area of 8,147 acres, with
6,881 inhabitants; Mahe, 7 miles S.E.
of Tellicheri, has an area of 2 square
miles, wth 2,616 inhabitants; and Chan-
dranagar, with 2,330 acres, has 32,670
inhabitants, of whom upwards of 200 are
Europeans. Puducheri itself has an area
of 107 square miles, with a population of
79,743 persons, of whom 790 are white.
The town contains about 30,000 inha-
bitants. The establishment is divided
into—-1. Executive and legislative, in-
eluding the governor, council of ad-
ministration, and council general. 2.
Judicial, including the royal court, the


_~
Madras.
tribunal of first instance, and the tribunal
of peace and of police. 3. Public instruc-
tion. 4. Marine. 5. Military. The
Governor-General receives 1,333 rupees
a month; the Attorne -General, 400;
and the four senior Ju ges, 200; about
the same as an ensign in the Company's
service.
In 1672, Puducheri, then a small
village, was purchased by the French
from the King of Vijayapur, 71 years
after the first arrival of French ships in
India. In 1693, the Dutch took Pudu-
cheri, but restored it, with the fortifica-
tions greatly improved, in 1697, at the
peace of Ryswick. On the 26th of Aug.
1748, Admiral Boscawen laid siege to it,
with an army of 6000 men, but was
compelled to raise the siege on the 6th
of Oct., with the loss of 1065 Europeans.
M. Dupleix was the Governor, and had
under him a garrison of 1800 Europeans
and 2000 Srpahis. On the 29th of
April, 1758, M. Lally landed at Pudu-
cheri, and commenced a vigorous war,
which ended ruinousl for the French.
In the beginnin o July, 1760, Col.
Coote, with 2000 uropeans and 6000
natives, began to blockade Puducheri.
On the 17th a detachment of his arm
under Ma'or Moore attacked a Frcnc
convoy, w 'ch had with it 4000 Mais1'1-
rean horse, 1000 Sipahis, and 200
Europeans. Moore had 1600 native
cavalry, 1100 Sipahis, and 230 Euro-
peans, and was entirely routed, losin
105 Europeans, killed or wounded, an
a great number of natives. Neverthe-
less, the English army having received
reinforcements, on the 9th of Sept.,
1760, carried the bound-hedge and two
of the four redoubts which defended it,
with the loss of 115 Europeans, and
about the same number of Sipahis. On
the 27th of Nov., M. Lally, finding the
garrison hard pressed by famine, expelled
all the native inhabitants from the town,
1400 in number. These bein driven
back b the English, attem te to re-
enter t e fort, but were fire on by the
French, and some of them killed. For
8 days these unfortunates wandered be-
tween the lines of the two hostile armies,
subsisting on the food which they had
about them, and the roots of grass. At
norms 11.—r-Imucnnnr.

53
last, finding Lally inexorable, the English
suffered them to pass.
On the ni ht of the 30th of Dec., while
an English eet of 8 sail of the line, 2
frigates, a fire ship, and a transport were
at anchor in the roads, a terrrfic storm
arose. The Newcastle, the Queenborough
frigate, and Protection fire-ship were
driven ashore 2 miles to the S. of Pudu-
cheri, but only 7 men of their crews
were lost. More dreadful was the fate
of the Duke of Aquitaine, the Sunder-
land, and the Dido transport, which
foundered with 1100 Europeans on
board. Only 14 men were saved, being
picked up next day as they were floating
on pieces of the wreck. All the other
ships, with the exce tion of the Admi-
ral’s, were dismaste . The disasters on
shore were likewise great. The sea
overfiowed the count as far as the
bound-hedge; all the attcries and re-
doubts which the English army had
raised were utterly ruined; the tents
and huts of the soldiers were blown to
atoms; all the ammunition was des-
troyed, and the men were compelled to
throw away their muskets and seek
shelter where they could, whilst many
of the camp followers perished. The
ho es of deliverance which this storm
ha raised in the minds of the French
were, however, soon dispelled by the
arrival of fresh men-of-war from Ceylon
and Madras, so that the blockading fleet
was again raised to 11 sail of the line.
On the 5th of Jan., 1761, the French
obtained a trifling success over a detach-
ment of 170 men who were in the St.
Thomas’s redoubt, at the mouth of the
Aryakuppam river. These were all killed
or taken; but Lally having no means of
feeding his prisoners, sent them to
Coote, with a demand that they should
not be allowed to serve again against
him during the siege. On the 16th,
the town surrendered, as the garrison
was reduced to 1100 men of the line
fit for duty, and these enfeebled by
famine and fatigue, with but two days’
provision left. Altogether 2458 Euro-
peans, including civilians, wcre made
prisoners, and 600 s, with 100 mor-
tars and howitzers were taken, with a
proportionate supply of stores.


a /
54
In 1763, Puducheri was restored to
the French. On the 9th of Aug., 1778,
Sir Hector Munro, with an army of
10,500 men, of whom 1500 were Euro-
peans, again laid siege to it. On the
10th, Sir E. Vernon, with 4 ships,
fought an indecisive battle in the roads,
with 5 French ships under M. Tron-
jolly, who, some days after, sailed off at
night, and left the town to its fate.
Puducheri, after an obstinate defence,
was surrendered in the middle of Octo-
ber by M. Bellecombe, the Governor, and
shortly after the fortifications were de-
stroyed. In 1783, it was re-transferred
to the French; and on the 23rd of Aug.,
1793, retaken by the British. The
treaty of Amiens, 1802, restored it to its
original masters; whereupon Buona-
parte sent thither General de Caen, with
7 other generals, 1400 regulars, a body
guard of 80 horse, and £100,000 in
specie, with a view, doubtless, to extensive
operations in India. His intentions,
however, whatever they may have been,
were defeated by the re-occupation of
Puducheri in 1803. Puducheri was
then attached to S. Arcot, and yielded a
yearly revenue of about 45,000 rs. In
1817, it was restored to the French, and
has remained ever since under their rule.
A traveller may pass some time very
agreeably here. The people are hospit-
able and gay, though poor; and very
many officers in the Company's service
have found wives at Puducheri. It is
perfectly allowable for gentlemen to
enter any ré-union that may be taking
place, uninvited; a privilege, for the
non-abuse of which, the scant supply of
strangers is a sufficient guarantee.
(b.) Gidalir. – There is nothing
worthy of note on the way from Pudu-
cheri to Gūdalir (Cuddalore). This
town, the capital of S. Arcot, and the
lace of residence of the civil authorities,
is situated in lat. 11° 43', long. 79° 50',
about 1% miles to the S. of the ruins of
Fort St. David, and a mile from where
one branch of the S. Ponnár (or £
enters the sea. This branch is calle
the Guddalam river. It is strictly
speaking a separate stream, though an
arm of the Ponnar flows into it at
Tiruvamür, as it approaches the coast,
ROUTE 11.–GUDALUR.
Sect. I.
takes a sweep to the N., and bends again
to the S., close to and on the W. of
Fort St. David, and, running parallel
to the beach for 3 or 4 miles, is separated
from the sea only by a bank of sand, in
some places but a few hundred yards in
£ It is joined at its embouchure
by the Karanguli river (usually termed
the Cuddalore river), a considerable
stream, which comes from the S.
The place where the Ponnár turns N.
is called Venkapét; and there a branch
is given off from it, which runs E. and
joins the main river again in its S. course,
thus enclosingasemi-circular tract of land,
on which stands the new town of Gūdalūr,
the old town being on its opposite or S.
side. The tide flows several miles up
the river, which may be said, during the
dry months, to be more an inlet of the
sea, or back water, than a fresh water
river. Its depth is about 6 ft. when the
tide is low; and a muddy bank of con-
siderable extent is exposed, from which
foetor arises, especially in the hot season.
The site of the town and its vicinity is
not more than 5 ft. above the level of
the sea, the soil being sandy and mixed
with clay. From this lowness of situa-
tion it might be expected to be unhealthy;
but so far is this from being the case,
that it enjoys a remarkable immunity
from disease, and the New Town and
Fort St. David in £ are pro-
verbially healthy. In fact, sick officers
and convalescents not unfrequently resort
to Gūdalúr for change of air, and several
banglás have been erected in New
Town for their accommodation, which
are procurable at moderate rents. The
climate is as equable as that of Madras,
and cooler.
In other respects, it has incontest-
able advantages over both Madras and
Puducheri, for an emporium, as it
is the natural port of Salem, from which
it is but 118 miles distant, even by the
present circuitous route. Yet cotton
is sent from Salem to Madras, nearly
double the distance, because the road to
Gūdalir is impassable for carts. The
bar of sand, too, which, owing to the
slowness of the current, the surf has
thrown up across the mouth of the river,
might easily be removed; in which case


_~
lfazlras.
the stream would be navigable for vessels
of considerable size: as it is, the trade
of the lace is decaying. There are no
roads, ut a pleasure drive on the beach
1% miles in extent; and another from the
town to the civilians’ house, 3 miles. Of
seven sugar refineries, six lie in ruins.
The collector’s house was built by Mr.
Place, at the beginning of the present
century, and was occupied till 1820 by
the Governor; after that, by the diffe-
rent collectors. Prior to 1690, the E. I.
Company had a factory here; which, on
account of the increasm trade, was, in
1702, rebuilt and forti ed. In 1746,
after the capture of Madras by De la
Bourdonnais, the English functionaries
betook themselves to Fort St. David and
Giidalfir. Both these places were then
attacked by the French without success.
On the 13th of April, 1749, a dreadful
storm took place, which destroyed the
British encam ment at Giidaliir; and
several ships oundered with all their
crews, among which was the Apollo
transport, the Pembroke of 60 guns, and
the Namur of 74. This last was con-
sidered the finest ship then in the Eng-
lish navy of her size, and carried 750
men, not one of whom escaped.
In 1758, M. Lally got possession of
both Giidalfir and Fort St. David, and
forthwith destroyed the fortifications
of the latter. In 1760, Col. Coote
recovered thcse places; and on the
lst July, 1781, gained between this
place and Porto Novo a great victory
over Haidar ’Ali, who is said by Wilks
to have lost 10,000 men; but on the 8th
of April, 1782, Gudalfir surrendered to
the combined French and Maisfirean
armies. The French then greatly
strengthened the works, and threw in a
powerful garrison under command of the
Marquis de Buss . On. the 13th of
June, 1783, the p ace was attacked by
General Stuart, with an army of 10,000
men. Hereupon ensued a siege, remark-
able in the annals of Indian warfare for
many memorable circumstances. In the
first place, while the armies were con-
tending on the shore, a British fleet of
17 shi s, with 1,202 s, under Sir
Edwar Hughes, was engaged with a
French fleet of 15 ships, carrying 1,018
,
nourn 11.—eui>ALuia.

55
guns, under M. Snlfrein. On the 20th,
a battle was fought between these arma-
ments, in which the English fleet lost
532 men, and was completely out-
manoeuvred b the enemy, who succeeded
in crippling the British vessels, and re-
turning to its anchoi-aige off Gfidalfir, at
which lace it lande 2,400 men to aid
in the efence of the town. This naval
engagement had been preceded by a
desperate encounter between the two
armies, in which the English got posses-
sion of 13 guns, and carried some out-
works, but with a loss of 1,016 men, of
whom 500 were Europeans ; the greatest
loss, particularly in oflicers, that had
been ever et sustained b them in any
action foug t in India. n the 25th, a
sortie of the garrison was repulsed, with
the loss to them of 600 men.
Among the wounded French risoners
was a young sergeant, who, by 's noble
appearance, attracted the attention of Col.
\Van enheim, the oflicer commanding
the anoverian troops in the En lish
service, to such a degree, that he or ered
the young man to be convqyled to his
own tent, where he was kin y treated
until his recovery and release. Many
years after, when the French arm , under
Bernadette, entered Hanover, angen-
heim, among others, attended the victor’ s
levee. Bernadette asked him if he had
not served in India, and at Giidalfirz"
and on his replying in the afiirmative,
inquired if he remembered a wounded
sergeant to whom he had been kind.
The Hanoverian said he recollected him
well, that he was a fine gallant fellow,
and he should like much to know what
had become of him. “Behold him in
me ! ” exclaimed Bernadette, and added
that nothing should be wanting on his
part to testify his gratitude.
On the 27th of June, two days after the
garrison had made their desperate sally,
the Medusa frigate arrived from Madras,
bringing news of the peace between
France and England.
The Fort qf Giidalar is an unequal-
sided quadran le with an indifferent
rampart and 'tch, and no outworks,
excepting one advanced from its N.E.
angle. A bastion covers each of the
other angles, and the curtains are fur-


56
Sect. I. Hahn.
noun: ll.-—POR’l‘0 NOVO.
nisbed with the imperfect kind of flank-
ing defence obtainable by means of a
succession of bastions, laced in a pro-
longation of one and t e same straight
line. The place, however, is naturally
strong, being defended by rivers on the
N. and E. Lord Valentia praises the
factory-housc as a chaste piece of archi-
tecture, built by his relative “Diamond
Pitt,” and ossessing a noble poitico.
The terrace roof was so much to the
fancy of M. Lally, that he carried it
awa to Puducheri.
(c Porto No»vo.—Five hours’ join‘-
ncy in a palankeen, brings the traveller
to Porto Novo, which stands on the
N. bank of the river Véliir, close to
the sea, and is called by the natives
Mahmud Bandar and Firingi 't. At
this place, and at Bé ur in alabar,
are the works of t e Indian Iron
Company, which obtained its charter
in 1854. In 1835, Mr. Heath, of
the Madras Civil Service, commenced
making iron at Porto Novo; intending
first to make wrought iron by charcoal
alone, with fires and ehaferies as in
Sweden. Owing to the nature of the
fuel, this experiment failed. Puddling
was then tried, using, instead of coal,
billets of wood, dried and half charred.
This also failed from the ditficulty of
getting up the heat with such material ;
and the wood being impre nated with
nitre and salt, owing to t e soil, the
ashes were so alkaline as to act as a
powerful flux on the bricks. Further
experiments were also rendered abortive,
by the character of the fuel, which
generates volumes of nitro-muriatic acid;
and in 1846-47 coals were tried unsuc-
cessfully.
The Porto Novo works are now at
a stand. Every one will admit, more
particularly at a time when railways


and steam engines are being intro-
duced into India, that the problem of
rendering the vast quantities of iron ore,
which strew the surface of the ound
in the collectorates of Salem and oim-
batiir, available for manufacture, is one
of the highest interest. It seems, how-
ever, that Poito N ovo was ill-chosen as
a site for works. The ore-ground is at
the distance of 80 miles, 30 of which
must be traversed by an execrable road,
and the remainder by tortuous canals,
navigable only during 4 months in the
year. Moreover, the wood fuel has the
pernicious qualities already stated, the
supply is much too scant , and is con-
tinually diminishing as t e jungles are
brought under cultivation every year, in
consequence of the extension of irriga-
tion. Add to these disadvantages the
circumstance that the works at Porto
Novo have been built on ground but 18
inches above the level of the river, and
close to it, so that deep castings cannot
be attempted, from the danger of ex-
plosions.
Nevertheless, the ore is good, yielding
on an average 65 per cent.; labour
is cheap, and there is an unlimited de-
mand. It may be that, after all, the
sim le method of the natives would prove
the est for the manufacture of iron. A
native furnace costs £56, in which all
expenses for working it for one year are
included, and returns £20 annually; so
that the first outlay is covered in 3
years, and after that, a regular profit
sets in.
The governorship of Porto Novo was
the bribe, in addition to a sum of money,
for which, in 1693, Dr. Blackwell, the
gariison surgeon of Fort St. David,
covenanted to surrender that place to
Zulfilgar Iflan, then besieging the Ram
Raja in J hinji.


Nor. Div. 57
SECTION II.
N OR T H E R N DIVISIO N.
Preliminary Information.
1, BounDARIES AND GENERAL ASPECT OF THE DIVISION-SUB-DIVISIONS AND
CHIEF Towns. -2. HISTORICAL SKETCH-CASTEs-EMPLOYMENTs oF THE
NATIVES.
1. BOUNDARIES AND GENERAL ASPECT OF THE DIVISION-SUB-DIVISIONS AND
CHIEF TOWNS.
This division, lying between 16° and 20° N. lat., is a narrow slip of country
about 350 miles in length, and from 60 to 10 miles in breadth.
It is bounded on the N. by the Chilka Lake and the territory of the Gumsir
Rājā; on the S. by the river Krishna; on the E. by the Bay of Bengal; and on
the W. by the Ghats, which separate it from the Nizam's country and that of
Nagpur.
he general aspect of the country from the Krishna as far as the frontier of
Vishakpatanam (Vizagapatam) is a flat alluvial plain rising gradually towards
the Ghâts. From that point northward it is more hilly. ... In the tract between
the sea and the Ghats the climate, though hot, is generally salubrious; but the
Ghats themselves, with a colder temperature, are very unhealthy, fever being the
prevalent disease.
The Sub-divisions and Chief Towns of the four Collectorates comprised in this
Division are as follows:–
GANJAM.
Taluks:#m N. and chief Towns. to:#.
1 Gumsür Nauga'on 55*
2 Moherri - Burhānpur 19
3 Ichchhápur Ichchhápur 33
4 Surada Surada 53
5 Palatalagam - - - -
6 Kantálavalsa
7 Kodár • * * * * * - - -
8 Pubakonda Prashutpur 16
9 Wadada Bairí 110
VISHAKPATANAM (VIZAGAPATAM).
Talu'sions Chief Towns. v'.
1 Pálkonda Pálkonda 86
2 Sarvasiddhi Sarvasiddhi 38
3 Golkonda Narsapatanam 54
* Owing to the intersections in the Delta, the distances here given cannot in some cases
be depended upon as quite correct,


58 HISTORICAL SKETCH. Sect. II. Madras.
RAJAMAHENDRI.
Tuu'sions chiefTowns, n's, £.
Andrangi - -
2 Uppáda - - - - - • -
3 Lingampuru Lingampuru 33
4 Kattapilli Kattapilli 24
5 Peddapur Peddapur 27
6 Bikkaval Bikkaval 20
7 Köta Ramchandrapuram Rāmchandrapuram 22
8 Rajamahéndri Rājamahéndri 365.6 -
9 Kapáveram Kapáveram 12
10 Ralli Ralli - 19
11 Amlápur Amlápur 40
12 Nagaram Nagaram 42
13 Tadimallé Tádimallé 14
14 Tannaku Tannaku 19
15 Undí Undí 38
16 Magaltúr - Magaltúr 46
MACHLíPATANAM (MASULIPATAM).
Tāluks. Chief Towns. n:£as. M'.
1 E'lúr E’lúr 48
2 Kaikalur Kaikalûr 30
3 TirVuir TirVuir 85
4 Gudewada Gudewada 23
5 Padana Padana 8
6 Machlipatanam Bandar or Mach-
lipatanam 315.2% - -
7 Divi Divi 16
8 Jaggiapéta Jaggiapéta 90
9 Nandigáma Nandigáma 74
10 Baizwäda Baizwāda, or Baizwāra 44
2. HISTORICAL SKETCH-CASTES-EMPLOYMENTS OF THE NATIVES.
The ancient name of the N. Sarkārs was Kalinga, '' this country was
known also to the Romans. It is £ however, that Orissa is the Calinga
spoken of by Pliny as a powerful and civilised kingdom, for according to the evi-
dence of the Chinese traveller, Hiuan Thsang, a desert forest extended for 500
miles from Kánchi (that is, from near Madras), towards the frontiers of Ganjām
in the early part of the 7th '' A.D. The name Kalinga has survived to the
present day under the corruption Keling, or Kling, among the inhabitants of the
E. islands, who have for ages carried on a trade with this coast. Of the kings
who anciently ruled over this territory we know nothing. A king of Andhra,
Andhrarayudu, son of Suchandra, is spoken of as reigning at Shrikákolam, on the
Krishna, and is said, after the death of his father, to have transferred his residence
to the banks of the Godāvarí, perhaps to Rájamahéndri. At his suggestion, the
sage Kanwa, the earliest of the Telugu grammarians, prepared a treatise on Telugu
grammar. A dynasty of Chalukia princes, and afterwards a Kadamba dynasty,
is said to have reigned subsequently at Rajamahéndri. The Ballal kings of
Warangol or Orankal appear to have succeeded; but in 1323 A.D. their capital
was taken by the Patháns. In 1471 A.D. the Muhammadans of the Dakhan began
to interfere in the affairs of this province. There being a disputed succession in
the family of the Rājā of Ganjām, Muhammad Shāh, of the Bahmani dynasty,
installed one of the claimants as Rájá on condition of his paying tribute; and in


Nor. Div. CASTES—EMPLOYIIENTS or THE mrrvns. 59
1480 made over to him also the countries of Kondapilli, E’l\'ir, and Raamahéndri.
To these provinces, in 1490, Mul_1ammad’s successor, Mahmud, ad ed Machl1'-
patanam and Guntiir. In 1512, the Bahmani dynasty came to an end, when the N.
Sarkfus, at least that part S. of the Godavari, fell to the Kutb Shahi kings, who
reigned at Golkonda or Haidarabad. The N. part was retained by Vishnu Dev,
who reivned at Rajamahéndri till 1571. In 1687, Aurangzib took Golkonda,
and made himself master of the Kutb Shahi dominions. Aperiod of anarchy
followed, as the Muhammadans were too much engrossed with the Marathas to
settle their outlying provinces. However, in 1713, Ni;amu’l-Mulk, Sfibahdar
of the Dakhan, appointed Anvfu-u’d-din, the future N fiwab of the Karnatak, to
the government 0 Shrikakolam, and Rustam Khan to that of Rajamahéndri and
the more S. portions of the Sarkars. In those days the names and boundaries of
the Sarkars were different from what they are now. Gmitzir alone had the same
boundaries, but was also called Murtaganagar or Kondavir. To this succeeded,
in a N. direction, Kondapilli, being the country between the Krishna and the
town of E'l1'1r and the Kolar lake. E'Z12r, the next Sarkar, lay between Kenda-
pilli and the S. branch of the Godavari. Thence .Ra_’jamahe'ndri extended N. to the
river Sattiaveram, which enters the sea at Kakinada (Cocanada). The rest of the '
present Collectorate of Rayamahéndri, and the whole of Vishakpatanam and Gan-
Jam, were included in the arge Sarkar of Shrikdkolam, the ancient name of which
was Kaling, whence Kalingapatanam. There was also a distinct government
called the Machlipatanam Haveli, extending from Mutapilli to Point Gudewaré.
Machlipatanam was looked upon as the chief fortress in the N. Sarkars. In 1750
it was made over to the French by Mugaifar Jan on his becoming Sfibahdar of
the Dakhan; and his successor, $alabat J ang, ded to this grant the whole of
the N. Sarkars. M. Bussy was appointed Governor on the part of the French;
and in 1757 he reduced several refractory chiefs, and expelled the English from
their possessions in the province, and took their arrison at Vishakpatanam pri-
soners of war. Soon after Bussy was called to adras to assist M. Lally in the
siege of that place; and the native Governor he left to act for him, A'nandraz
Gayapati, made overtures to the English. Clive detached Col. Forde to co-0 erate
with him, who completely defeated Oonflans, the successor of Bussy, at Ped apur.
In this battle the English had 470 Euro eans and 1,900 Sipahis, with about 5,000
auxiliaries under A’nan1raz, who were 0 little use. Oonflans had 500 Europeans,
500 horse, and 6000 Sipahis. He lost 30 pieces of cannon, his camp with all its
equipage, and 18 oificers and 170 Europeans killed, wounded, or prisoners, besides
Srpahis. Next year Forde stormed the fortress of Machlipatanam, and made
prisoners of a force which exceeded his own in number. Upon this a treaty was
concluded with Salébat J ang, Siibahdar of the Dakhan, by which Mechlipatanam
and the territory dependent on it, about 8 miles long and 20 broad, was ceded to
the En lish, and the expulsion of the French was agreed to. In 1762, Nigam
‘Ali, who had s erseded his brother Salabat J aug, ofi'cred the Sarkars, except
Guntfir, the fief 0 Basalat Jang, to the English on condition of their aiding him
with troops; but the offer was declined. fhree years afterwards Clive obtained
a grant of the Sarkars from the King of Delhi; and on the 12th N ov., 1766, the
N igam signed a treaty at Haidarabad agreeing to this ant. The Company did
not, however, take possession of their new provinces t' l 1769, and it was not till
17 78 that they assumed charge of Guntur, having then obtained a lease of it from
Basélat Jang. (See C. Division, Preliminary Information).
The most interesting castes peculiar to the N. Sarkars are the Rdtsas and
Velamas. The Ratsas are the Rajputs of the south, and possess all the high sense
of honour of that chivalrous people. Ignorance of their prejudices, or a rude way
of dealinrr with them, has more than once led to fatal 'results. Ratsas have
stabbed tliemselves in our courts of law when an attempt has been made to deprive
them of their weapons; and others, when cited to appear before our judges, have


60 CAS'1'ES—EMPLOYMENTS or rm: rurrvss. Sect. II. Madras.

destro ed themselves and their whole families. Orme (vol. ii. p. 258) records a
remar able instance of the unyielding coura c of these men in the defence of
Bobilli, a fortress in the N.\V. part of the Sar fir of Vishakpatanam (lat 18° 35',
long. 83’ 25’ . The chieftain of this lace, Rangarao, was at feud with Vijaya
Ram R:’rz,t e deputy of M. Bussy, w o was persuaded to attack the fortress,
situate in an almost impenetrable forest. The French troops, after netrating
through the jungle with much difiiculty and some loss, stormed the ort on the
24th of J an., 1757. \Vhile the action was at its height, a select band of Ratsas
put all their women and children to death, and then returned to die upon the
walls without 'ving or receiving quarter. Of the whole clan but 6 men survived,
the tutor of filangarads son, who preserved the youn chieftain contrary to his
father’s commands, and 4 warriors, who ledged themsc ves to slay Vija a Ram,
the originator of the war. On the thir night after the storm two of t ese men
penetrated into Vijaya Ram’s tent, and stabbed him to death, inflicting 32
wounds on his body. They then calmly awaited their fate, exclaiming to their
assailants, “Look here! we are satisfied!" Had they failed, the attempt would
have been renewed by their two remaining comrades.
The Velamas are likewise chieftains, and resemble the Ratsas in their pride
and war-like spirit. They are said, however, by Campbell to be Shddras.
Many of the rincipal Zamindars are descended from the family of the Rajés
of J agannath in rissa, who, some centuries ago, conquered the ancient Serkar of
Shrikakolam. They still maintain large bodies of armed retainers. The principal
Zamindfirs in Ganjam are those of Parlah Kimedi, Pedda Kimedi, or Vijayanagar,
and Chinna Kimedi, or Pratapgadi. The town of Parlah Kimedi is in lat. 18° 50',
long. 84° 10'. In 1829 the country was attached on account of its disturbed
state; and in 1833 troops were employed to put down the refractory, among
whom was a clan of highlanders, whose c iefs were called Bisais. The peshkash, or
tribute, paid by the Zamindar is 82,529 rs. per annum. The Zamindar claims
descent from the royal families of Orissa.
Pedda Kimedi hes due N. of Parlah Kimedi. The Raj 5, or Zamindfrr, whose
family formerly lived at Vijayanagar, now resides at Digapudi. The peshkash is
23,000 rs. per annum, Pratfrpgadi is the most N. of the three Kimedis. The
Riija lives at Pudamari, and pays 20,000 rs. er annum. The large Zamindari of
Gumsdr, lying between 29° 40' and 20° 20' . lat., and 80° 10' and 85° 5' E. long.,
was entered by our troops in 1835, in consequence of the Raja having refused to
pay his arrears of tribute. An army of 7000 men was employed under the direc-
tion of Mr. Russell, and in two eampai ns succeeded in penetratin all the passes,
and reducing the country. It was at t is time that the town an cantonment of
Russell-Konda (Russell-hill , called from the Commissioner, was founded, in lat.
20°, long. 84° 40', 50 miles .E. of the town of Ganjam, and 6 N.N.W. of the
fort of Gumsrir. This station is about 150 feet above the level of the sea; but
within a short distance are the Ghats, from 500 to 2000 feet high, thickly clothed
with jungle. Gumsfir may be divided into two tracts, Upper and Lower Gumsfir.
Lower Grumsfir is overspread with thick jungle full of poisonous malaria; and
here our troops, in the campaig'ns_of 1835-36, sufiered eatlyifrom fever. The
Upper country is more open, and is comparatrvel healt y. he Rhonda, a wild
people who inhabit Gumsfir, had for ages been ad 'cted to the barbarous customof
female infanticide and human sacrifices. It was usual to kidnap or purchase chil-
dren of both sexes, and feed them up as richly as the resources of the inhabitants
would allow, indulging them at the same time in all their wishes, until the day of
offering the Maria, or sacrifice, arrived. A solemn convocation was then held, and
the victim was led with music and reoicings to be butchered. The sacrifice was
supposed to obtain good crops and ot er b essings for the ofl'erers. By the well-
sustained efforts of the English Government, this horrible custom, as well as that
of inthutieide, have been suppressed (see Journal qfRo_1/al Asiatic Society, vo_l.


Nor. Div. CASTES—EMPLOY1IENTS or THE mrrvns. 61
xiii., art. xii., b Capt. Macpherson). About ten miles S. of Gumsfir, is the
small town and arnindéri of Aska, which yields 4700 rs. The sugar factories of
Messrs. Binny and (10., which are close to the town, are worked by steam, and
are fitted with machinery of the best and most modern description.
In the Collectorate of Vishfiikpatanam there is the great Zaminddri of Vija-
yanagaram, which pays 6 lacs of rupees, or £60,000, a-year to Government.
This Zamindari, one of the largest in India, is divided into 11 Taluks, and has a
population of 561,748. The present Zamindar, Vijaya Ram Gajapati Raz is 30
years of age, and has just assumed charge of his country, which, at his own re-
grest, was placed for 3 years after his accession, under an English Superintendent.
e is the representative of that Vijaya Ram who induced M. Bussy to destroy
the Chief of Bobilli, and who in 1712 erected the resent fort of Vijayanagaram.
On his assassination he was succeeded by his nep ew, A’nanda, who aided Col.
Forde in the siege of Machlipatanam, in 1759, and died shortly afterwards at
Baizwada, on his way to obtain the recognition of his title from the N iggam. The
names of the Taluks in this Zamindari are as follows :—
'1‘s.lul-rs. No. of Villages. Chief Town. Population.
1. Vijayanagaram 213 Vija anagaram 95,985
2. Gudivada E. of Vijayanagaram) 180 Ven atapur 65,553
3. Bonanghi . of ditto 98 Kottiam 48,410
4. Kurnéram (N. of ditto 1 819 Chipurupalli 91,520
5. Gajapatinagaram (ditto) 167 Gajapatinagaram 46,301
6. Padagadi (S.E. of ditto) 226 Padagadi 67,656
7. Vapada (S.W. of ditto) 90 Lakavarapukéta 34,029
8. Alamanda (S. of Vapfida) 48 Gavaravasam 31,223
9. Chodaranen (S. of Alarnanda) 123 Ohodéranen 40,684
10. Nellimuku (S. of Vishakapatanam) 84 Nadpur 20,980
11. Shrikurmam (N. of Shrikakolam) 53 Shrikurmam 15,547
This Zamindari is bounded to the W. by the Késhipur Hills, which rise to
the height of 3000 feet. In this range excellent plumbago is found, and other
minerals.
There are no Zamindaris deserving particular notice in the Collectorates of
Rajamahéndri or Machlipatanam.


62
Sect. II.
RoUTE 15.—MADRAs To GANJAM.
ROUTE 15.
MADRAs To GANJAM.
673 M. 4 F.
For the particulars of this Route as
far as the Krishna river, see Route 10.
Thence proceed as follows:–
MILITARY AUTHORITY—Officer com-
manding Northern Division—Walter.
CIVIL AUTHORITY-From Baizwāra,
or Baizwada, to Yernagudiam: Collector
of Machlipatanam — Machlipatanam.
Thence to Tuni: Collector of Rajama-
héndri — Rajamahendri. Thence to
Shrikákolam: Collector of Wishakpata-
nam-Wishakpatanam. Thence to Gan-
jám: Collector of Ganjām-Ganjam.
STAGES.
PLACES. M. F. M. F.
(a) BAIZWADA, b.t.o. 271 4 271 4
Machaveram ............ 2
Ramavarāhupadu ...... 2
Yánikapādu ............ 1
Nedumanáru ............ 0
x Bodaman Channel to
Kasarapalli............
GANNAVARAM, b. t.o.
Atukar ................. •
Ampapuram . - - - -
Viravalli...........
Narsanapālam
RAMACHANDRA
APPARAOPET, b. 2
x Rámileru n. to Bo-
multir ..................
Kalāmāruvu -
x4 n to Tamelér, r.......
E'lórpét, enter .........
(b) ELUR ends, b. t. o.
x Tameléru r. to Pál-
gudiam
Dandalór ......
Gundugolovu .....
BHIMADOL, b.
Gopalpuram .....
Náráyanpuram .........
Ghantavārígudiam......
Dubachérla...............
NALLACHE"RLA, b.
Achanapálliam .........
Anantapalli...............
x Yerrakalva, r.
X *... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
YERNAGUDIAM, b. t. o. 3
Krishnampalam......... 1
|
13 7
|
|
i
|
|3|
|
|
:
i
:
STAGES.
M. F.
10 1
10 1}
13 4}
14 0
11 2
12 7
12 6
8 1
PLACES.
Daivarapalli ............
Bandapadu..... -
Dudukür........ -
Gauripatnam ............
PEDDAPANGEDI, b.
x a channel
Domairu.
Kauðr........ • -
Godāvarí r. r. b. -
Ditto, l.b. ...............
(c) RAJAMAHENDRI,
b. t. o. (Fort) ........ •
Divánjíchervu -
Wiranáthnipandal ......
x r. to RAJANAGA-
RAM, b. t. o. .........
Gonagudem
Murári ........
Gandapalli..
Mallapalli ..
Tālūru
JAGAMMAPET, b. t. o.
Rámaveram
Somaveram...............
x Yaleru r. to Yera-
Varam ..................
Govindapuram .........
Pattipādu ...............
DHARMAVERAM, b.
Chendurti .......
Robertsonpéta .
Kattipundi.......
Tamyapéta .... -
£ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
ARAMPUDI ANNA-
VERAM, b....... • * * * *
x 3 n. to Tătagunta ...
x 4 n. to TUNI, b. t. o.
x Tondava r. to Paika-
raopéta, t. 9............
Nauvaram .....
Kodechirla .....
Udantapuram..
Kaité ....... •
NAKKAPALLI, b, ...
Timmasapuram .........
Gokalapádu ....
Penugol ...........
X Pandayaru, r.
Pulaparti ........
Rangupalliam..
YEL'AMANöffi£f 5.
x n. to Narsanapalli...
12 1
13 5


Madras.
63
RoUTE 15.—MADRAs To GANJAM.
PLACES.
x large n. to Tallapál-
liam.....................
Unknipalliam............
Puyawāram ............
KASIMKOT, b. t.o....
x Sarada, r...............
Ankapalli (Fort
Marripálliam ............
Jangalpälliam ....
Askapalli.......... - - -
SUBHARAM, b..........
x large n. ...............
Kulupalli ........ - - - -
Santapälliam ............
x 2 n. to KO'TAWAL-
SA, "...................
Sungaripálliam - -
Kandagapalli............
Kätikapalli
Nerikattu ........ • * * * * * *
ALAMANDA, t. o......
Chinnapálliam .........
x n. to Bhimsinghi, b.
x Krostang, r............
• araki.........
(d) VIJAYANAGARAM
(Fort), b. t. o..........
Dasanapéta...............
x 3 m. to Peddatádivāda
Chinnatádivāda .........
Bhogapuram ............
x Konada, r. ............
KONADA, b. t. o. ......
x n. to Yelladár.........
x 3 n. to Chinnapadi-
• •
Sundarapalliam .........
Kálikosakalla............
x n. to Kötapéta ......
x n. to Kupelli, b. t. o...
x 2 n. to Mutadda......
x '# ?". . . . . . . . . . . . .
(e) SHRIKAKOLAM,
(Chicacole), Place of
-
|
:
F.
:
#
|
STAGES.
M. F.
8 5
9 0
12 3
13 4
16 3
PLACES.
M
A Masjid and Tank ... 3
Agrahāram............... 1
x n. to GARRAH...... 3
Koni ..................... 0
g' apatnam..... 2
x Wangsédhára, r....... 0
Govindapuram ......... 0
Nandigaon............... 1
Dandulachmipuram ... 3
PERIA AGRAHARAM 0
Vânistapuram............
Bhorbhadra
x n. to Wutebhára...... 1
Antulaveram ............ 1
x 2 n. to GOPALPURAM
b. t. 9....... • -
Tálagaon .........
Chinnarogandlapalli ...
Lingalapadu ............
x 2 n. to Daivāda ......
PANTA TEKELLI, b.
Govindapuram .........
Murlapádu........ * - - - - - -
x n. to Kövité Agrah-
āram ..................
x 3 m. to Cross Road...
x 2 n. to Chinna Pádám
KASIBUGA, b..........
Padmanapapuram .....
x n, to Makkārājola...
Păligăon..................
Haripuram, b............
x n. to AMBUGAON .
Parterunipalli......... • * *
x n. to Mahéndratanya
r. and Shāsanam on
the left ..... * - -
x n. to Hukmpéta
k 2 £
ancher iam, b, ...
J : • • * * * *:
Jam’adárputi............
x n. to Savaradaivupéta
x 3 n. and Lotabuti, r.
g) ICHCHHAPUR,b.t.o.
Suvâni ..................
Jatipadra ....
Chimmeripalli
Jagannāthapuram
MöNTRE)pp.........
Pannapalli......... • *
Indrarajápuram...
Tirthapuram ......
:
|
#
:
Arms, t. o. ............
tipakki ..................
}
STAGES.
M. F.
12 4
8 7
11 6
10 7
10 3}
7 3}
8 3


64
Sect. II.
novrn 15.—n.u>nas T0 eANJ.iM——Bs1zwi1_>s.


rnscns. srseas.
M. 1-‘. M. r.
E Skalt-water Inlet...... 1 0
o alli ...... 2 7}
Gopzlspuram .......... .. 1 3
xr. to ANSU’RKO’TA 1 5§ 12 4
Konamanna .... .. 4 4
Partachattapuram 1 6
Chhatra ur, l. 0. ...... .. 1 6}
Bishiku ia, r. r. b. 3 0
,, z. b. ....... .. 0 3;
(h) GANJA'M(enter),t.o. 0 2 11 6
673 4
(11) Baz'zwa'¢_ia.—The Krishna river,
where the great north road crosses it at
Baizwada, is 1160 yds. broad, and its
velocity 5 m. an hour. It is said to dis-
charge more water in one hour than the
Clyde at Glasgow in one year. The river
begins to rise in June, and freshes con-
tinue till the end of October. After this
the stream adually subsides, but is not
fordable tillrabout the end of January.
When the rise attains the height of
22 ft., the water enters the ducts for
irri ation; when it reaches 32 ft. the
ban are overflowed. In 1861-52-53
it rose to 35 ft., and caused some
damage. At Baizwada there are three
lar e ferry boats belonging to natives,
and some others are obtainable from
other ferries when required for the pas-
sage of troops. Government has sane-
tioned the outlay of £20,000 for a
timber bridge, the stanchions of which
are to be imbedded in the masonry of
the Anakatt. This work is now under
construction with teak obtained from
Pegu. The banks of the river are
plentifully clothed with the Balnil tree,
the Mimosa Arabica, which yields a
quantity} of valuable gum, the collection
of whie gives employment to many per-
sons. This gum is used by cloth paint-
ers, toy-makers, pa er fitters, and others.
The seeds of the abfll are used by the
peasants for feeding their cattle during
the dry season.
The Krishna is one of the principal
rivers in India. Rising
at Mahabaleshwar in lat. 18° 1' long.
73° 41' on the E. brow of the Ghats,
4,500 ft. above the sea, it flows almost
due E. into the bay of Bengal, bisect-
in the W. Ghats '


ing, as it were, the Dakhan. It does
not divide till within 23 m. of the sea,
and the Delta it forms is insignificant.
Its whole course is not less than 800 m.,
but, unha pily, from the rockiness of
its channe , and the rapidity of the
slope, it is useless for purposes of navi-
gation; being, indeed, crossed for the
most part only with wicker vessels lined
with hides. At the same time the great
height of its banks (which average
from 30 to 50 ft.) prevents its being
made available for irrigation. How-
ever, after it emerges from the E. Ghats
at Baizwada and Sitana aram, several
canals have been carried rom its banks,
and on the rise of the river in June
these arefilled. The principal canal is
the Tungabhadra, excavated 1n 1842, by
which the Sandol, Kammanfir, Bapétla,
and other tanks are supplied. The
Velatfir canal feeds the important tank
of Allfir.
But the great work which spreads the
fertilizing waters of the Krishna over
the adjacent lands in both the Guntfir
and Machlipatanam provinces is the gi-
gantic Anakatt, or embankment, now
carried across the river from S'1tanaga-
ram in Guntfir to Baizwada on the oppo-
site shore. This Anakatt supplies water
to a million acres. It is situate close to
the Great N. road, where two lofty hills,
one on either bank, reduce the river's
breadth from 2,000 to 1,350 yds. The
velocity of the river is augmented by its
being thus narrowed, and hence addi-
tional strength is required in the Ana-
katt, which consists of a wall 19 ft. hi h
above the deep bed, and resting on we
of masonry from 7 to 8 ft. deep. This
wall is 10 ft. broad at bottom, and 4 at
top. It is supported in rear by a back-
ing or apron of loose stone cxtendin to
more than 90 yards in breadth, wit a
second retaining wall or revetment also
based on wells. The first part of this
is covered with rubble masonry and hewn
stone carried to a level with the to of
the wall, so as to form a flat breadt of
20 ft. This cut stone is continued in an
inverted curve 30 ft. further, after which
the loose stone commences, and slopes
d_own gradually to the sandy bed of the
river.


Madras.
ro aANJ.iM—1i:Liin.
nourn l5.——MADRAS
.65
At each end of the Anakatt is a large
sluice, with 16 vents to keep the bed of
the river clear of deposits, in front of
the head sluices of the great canals. At
each head sluice there is a lock to pass
boats between the river and the canal,
with a chamber 50 yds. long and 20 ft.
wide.
Length of theAnakatt,or dam,is 3750 ft.
Two under sluices at E. and W.
extremities (each, between the
abutment? ............ .... .. 132 ,,
Two head itto (ditto) ....... .. 132 ,,
Two locks on E. and W. canals


(each, between the gates)...... 150 ,,
Depth of foundation walls 7-8 ,,
Height of wall ......... .. .. 19 ,,
Breadth of do. at crown .. 20 ,,
Do. curved slope ................ .. 60 ,,
,, first part of loose stone 50 ,,
, second ,, ,, ,, .... .. 180 ,,
Crown of Anakatt, above sum-
mer level ............... .. 14 ,,
Head sluice, flows above ditto... 9% ,,
Under ,, ,_, at Sitanagaram 6 ,,
,, ,, Baizwada .......... .. 6% ,,
Summer level above deep bed.. . 5 ,,
Deep bed above high water
mark, at Machlipatanam .... .. 23 ,,
The cost of the work, which was
finished in 1855, is estimated at about
£78,000, exclusive ' of the irrigating
canals, which will be all navigable. Up
to the present time rice in large quanti-
ties has been imported into the collec-
torate of Machlipatanam from Bengal,
but the Anakatt will probably supply
water enough to enable the inhabitants
to grow this important article for their
own consumption, and even admit of
considerable export.
Another work of great utility, would
be a canal to join the Krishna and
Godavari rivers. This work is, indeed,
already in pro ess, by a high level
channel from t e Godavari to E’lfir,
where it will be locked into the hi h
level channel from the Krishna, t e
waters of which have an elevation of 8'
above those of the Godavari. A glance
at the ma will show the facility with
which suc a work might be accom-
plished. The Kolar lake, which, during
the rains, covers upwards of 100 sq. m.,

lies directly between Baizwada and
Rfijamahéndri, on the Godavari; and
into this lake the river Budwar (which
passes within a mile or two of Baiz-
wada) flows. It must be noted, how-
ever, that the Kola: lake will be greatly
reduced in area b draina e and em-
bankment. Alrea y some t ousands of
acres have been reclaimed, and are bear-
ing heavy crops of rice.
Baizwada itself is a large and rapidly-
improving place. A great festival is
held here on the banks of the Krishna,
about February, in honor of Shiva. At
that time sin is supposed to be removed
by bathing at certain famous spots; for
the river is held to be most sacred.
There are two other festivals, one at
Kallapilli in honor of the same God,
and another six weeks later in honor
of Vishnu, celebrated at Shrikakolam,
between Kallapilli and Baizwada. In
the hills close to Baizwada there is good
bear shooting; and tigers, hog, and
bison are to be met with.
(b) E'l1'4r, called Upper E’lz’¢r, is a
very populous town, and has been occa-
sionally the station of a native regiment.
At present the cantonment is occupied
only by a detachment, or by recruiting
parties. The Tammeler, a small shal-
low river, the bed of which is dry during
the greater part of the year, divides the
town into two parts. On the right
bank are the remains of an old fort,
distant 1.} miles N .E. from the barracks.
The officers’ houses are on the opposite
side, 1 m. W. of the barracks. The
lines are well situated, dr and commo-
dious, and the houses of t e town are of
a better description than is usually seen.
In the great Kolar lake, which is close
to the town, there is abundance of fish,
and wild fowl may be shot ad libitum.
Sixteen miles S.\V. of E'l(ir is the
village of Mallavelli, one of the 7 places
in this province at which diamonds are
found. The names of the other 6 places
are Partal, Alkwir, Partkenipddu, Pra- '
talla, Wastapilli and Kodzwetti Kallu.
The hollow flat, where the diamond
pits are, is a low, dry, gravelly plain,
but which has the ap earance of having
once been a lake. hrough this lain
no stream flows, and the pools, in its


66
nourn 15.--nA1'm.is T0 aANJ.iir—niiJsMsn1§Nnni. Sect. I1.
lower part, dry up in March, when the
excavation may be commenced, and not
before. The its are in general exca-
vated at the end of the bank, that
surrounds the hollow. The deepest are
not more than 12 ft., and, whatever the
depth, a hard mass of rock is never
reached. The strata penetrated are——
first, a grey, clayey, vegetable mould,
about a foot or two thick; below this
an alluvium of the following pebbles,
rounded by attrition : sandstone, quartz,
siliceous iron homstone, carbonate of
iron, fe ar, conglomerate sandstone,
and a pr 'gious quantity of concretion-
ary limestone. The diamond is never
found imbedded, or in any way attached
to an of the pebbles, but always loosely
mixe with the other little stones. The
detritus, forming the diamond stratum,
must have proceeded from the hills to
the N., the only hills, in fact, near the
place. They are the continuation of the
sandstone range, which extends E. from
Banganapilli, Kondapilli and Malla-
vclli, in all of which localities the matrix
of the diamond is a conglomerate sand-
stone.
From E'li'ir, a heavy, sandy road
leads to Rdjamahéndri, the next place of
importance. The Yerrakalva nver in
the third stage is for a few days every
year unfordable, and must be crossed
on rafts, for there are no boats to be
had.
(c) Rajamrchéndn, the capital of the
Collectorate of the same name, is a town
with a population of about 15,000 per-
sons, of whom about a fourth are brah-
mans. The Muhammadans are few in
number, and are comparatively poor.
The mosques, however, which are still
standing, show that formerly the follow-
ers of the Prophet at this place must
have been both numerous and wealthy.
.Ra'jama/zéndri is built on the N. bank of
the Godavari, in lat. 16° 15', long. 81°
53', on somewhat elevated ground, and
consists of one principal street half-a-
mile in length, ninning nearly due N.
and S., where is the chief béizar. The,
houses on each side are generally of
mud, one story high, and ti ed. Several
narrow lanes rim E. and W. from the
principal street. Those to the W. pro-


coed to the bank of the river, and con-
sist of mean houses, with here and there
large two-storied dwellings belonging to
the Zamindars of the district, or wealthy
brahmans. The streets on the E. side
are more narrow and irregular, and
have fewer houses of the respectable
classes.
The Fort is N. of the town, and is
square, with high round walls and a
ditch, now partially filled up. lt is
usually garrisoned by two companies of
the native regiment, stationed at Samar-
lakota, a town not far from the sea, and
29 m. 6} f. from Rajamahéndri. The
barracks, hospital, 'ail, magazine, and
lines of the detachment are in the
Fort.
The Rajas of this place are mention-
ed by Farishta as independent princes,
when the Dakhan was invaded by
Allahu’d-din, A.D. 1295. In 1471, A.D.,
it was subjected by the Bahmani sove-
rei s of the Dakhan.
he Goddvari Skr. Go, “water,” d,
“that gives”), w ich washes the town,
is the third river of India in length, its
whole course being 898 m., and it is
probable that its navigation may soon
ecome of corresponding importance.
Its floods rise from 30 to 100 feet above
the summer level, and its discharge
varies from 200 millions of cub. yds. per
hour in extreme floods, to about 300,000
ds. in the hottest weather. It rises in
at. 19° 68’, long. 73° 30' in the W.
Ghats, at an elevation of about 3,000 ft.,
near Trimbal: Ndrak, in the Collectorate
of Ahmaduagar. The place where it is
supposed to have its source is considered
by the Hindfis one of the most sacred in
India, and vast crowds of pilgrims throng
to it at the time of festivals. After a
S.E. course of 100 m., the Godavari
reaches the W. frontier of the N i_zam’s
territory at Phultamba, in lat. 19° 48',
long. 74° 40', and during thc next 90 m.
forms the boundary of the Ahmadnagar
Collectorate and the country of the
Nigam, which latter it enters 10 m. be-
low Manjf, and flows in a winding E.
course 160 m. to Lasona, receiving on
its way the Dfidhna, a considerable
stream. Eighty-five miles further it re-
ceives the Manjara, a large river from


Madras.
I I I
e.mJ.m—rn.s eomvnnr. 67
noun-3 15.-—MADRAS TO
the 8., and again after 170 m. near the
town of Vil Sager, the Maner. Thence
it flows about 20 m. to Kaleshwar, in
lat. 18° 62’, long. 79° 55’, where it joins
the Wain Gangzi, there called the Pra'n-
him, a very lar e river, which brings
down the great ainage of the S. si e
of the Vindhyah mountains. At Kotur,
170 m. further, the Godavari crosses the
Nigé.m’s frontier into the Collectorate of
Rajamahéndri, through a deep chasm in
the E. Ghats, with, however, so gradual
a slope as to present no difiiculties of im-
portance for navigation. At Devi ata-
nam the river emerges from the i s,
and passes Rajamahéndri to Dau1esh-
waram, about 6 m. ofi‘, where is the
largest Anakatt in India. Here, too,
commences the delta of the Godavari,
which divides into two streams, the E. or
Gautami, which flows by Nilapilli and
the French settlement of Yanam into
the sea, 2 miles S. of Korangi (Coringa);
and the W. or Vasishta, which de-
bouches 4 or 5 miles S. of Narsapur.
The Vasishta has also a smaller branch,
called the Vainatyen, flowing E. to the
sea near Bandamurlanka.
As the Godavari, were it navigable
above the Ghats, would open up the
commerce of the vast provinces of Haid-
arébad and N wpur, including the pro-
ductive cotton elds of 'Beré.r, it will be
seen at once that there is no question
connected with Public Works in India
of equal importance with the problem
of how to render its navigation prac-
ticable. The difliculties have been ably
stated by Lieut. Haig, and are as fol-
lows. It must be premised, that near
Siruncha, the Wain Ganga, or Pranhita,
meets the Godavari, and that the navi-
%tion from thence proceeds N. up the
ain Ganga, not W. by the Godavari,
where, indeed, the water is much too
shallow in the season to admit of
vessels passing.* The course of the
river then, to Chanda, a considerable
town, favorably situated on the Erai and
Jarpatti rivers, which flow into the Wain
Gangs, and but S0 m. from N agpur,
may be divided into 7 portions :—
AVERAGE
RISE-
IILE5. FRET.
1. From Dauleshwaram
to Sintral barrier 108 10$
2. The Sintral barn'er.. . 4
3. From Sintral barrier
to Enckanejzalli .... .. 76 10$
4. Enchanépalli barrier 12
5. Enchanépalli barrier
to Dewalamarri .... .. 100 8%
6. Dewalamarri barrier 40
7. Dewalamarri banier
to Chanda . ......... .. 72 4%
Total ....... .. 412
1.—At Dauleshwaram, the Anakatt
dams back the water more or less above
its natural summer level for 10 m. to
the village of Komaradevam, where the
natural slope of the bed commences and
continues to Devipatanam, where the
river emerges from the hills. Thence to
Koyendé, 30 m., the stream is for the
most part pent between hills, which at
one place run sheer down to the water's
edge, being not more than 250 yards
apart. Owing to being thus narrowed,
the river is deeper, and has a greater
rise and velocity during floods; but for
half the year, when the water passing
down is only from 400,000 to 1% mil-
lions of cub. yds. per hour, the great
depth to which the bed has been exca-
vated in the freshes gives a section,
which requires scarcely any fall in this
30 m. to discharge the water. Hence
from Devipatanam to Koyendé the water
is nearly still, for some months in the
year. From Koyendé to Bhadrachélarn,
about 46 m., the rise in the bcd is 63 ft.,
or at the rate of 15 ft. per mile. This
slope is not, however, uniformly distri-
buted. \Vhen the river is low, the
shoals of sand which are constantly in
motion form bars at intervals, the fall
over which is somewhat above the aver-
age. This remark applies to every por-
tion of the river bed, when there is no
great body of water coming down. Just
above the Bhadrachélam the first rocks
appear. They extend 4 miles, but are

' Sh-uncha is remarkable as the lace near
which the late Dr. Bell dug for coa , it is said
with success. That it exists there can be no
gazpbt, as black shale is found in great quan-
1 es.
thinly scattered, and may he so easily
removed, that a small party of Sappers
_.-I
'~


68
ROUTE 15.-—MAD]iA.S TO GANI,dM—DAULESlIWARA)[. Sect. II.
cleared a good passage right through,
with the expenditure of only 100 lbs. of
powder. Durin floods these rocks are
covered, and 0 er no impediments to
boats.
The Sintral barrier consists of two
separate masses of rock, 1 and 2 m. in
length, with a chasm three quarters of a
mile long, tolerably free from rock, be-
tween them. In the summer, the differ-
ence of level between the water imme-
diately above this barrier and that below,
is 36 ft. When full the stream passes
clean over the whole of the rocks, and,
though the current is great, boats can
ascend. But in summer the tops of the
rocks are uncovered, and the river passes
through 2 channels varying from 20 to
30 ds. in width, and from 10 to 20 ft.
'n epth. The width of the stream when
full varies from 600 yds. at the lower end
to 1000 yds. at the upper.
3.—In the next 76 m. a few detached
rocks occur. A little below Enchané-
palli, the second barrier begins. The
river turns sharp to the E., and near the
village of Talagudim rocks begin, and
at Enchanépalh almost shut the stream,
the only passage being a narrow wind-
ing one, 30 yds. wi e and 25 deep,
smooth as though hewn by man. Above
it the rocks continue, but more thinly,
for 4 m., where a narrow ledge, over a
low part of which the water falls 2 feet
in summer, crosses the river. At the
village of Damur, 5 m. higher, the prin-
cipal barrier commences. Here a. solid
mass of rock runs completely across,
rising from 18 to 25 ft. above the summer
level, the water falling over it in the
most icturesque manner. This barrier
is a ew hundred yds. broad, and then
there are no rocks for 1% m. to Pank-
hina, where there is another fall of 6 ft.
over a narrow ledge. The difl'erence of
level between the water above the rocks
at Pankhina and that at Enchanépalli is
50 ft. The rock is mostly slate; the
width of the river is from 300 to 600
yds., and the banks are from 60 to 70 ft.
igh above the summer level.
5.—The third and most formidable
barrier, of solid rock, commences 1 m.
above the village of Dewalamarri, and
extends 40 m. When the stream is

high, that is for 4 months in the year,
the total fall being only 142 ft., or 3% ft.
per m., this barrier is less of an obstacle
than the two preceding, but indryweather
it is at present quite impassable to boats.
It is proposed to connect the two points
of the river above and below this bar-
rier by a canal with locks, and thus
avoid this barrier altogether. Owing to
the stream taking a great bend precisely
at this spot, it is thought that two points,
at present 96 m. distant, may be joined
by a canal 35 m. long,thus saving 61 m.
transit. The estimate for this work,
and for passing the other two barriers
by means of locks, is £300,000.
The Great Anakatt at Dauleshwaram
crosses the Godavari, where the river is
4 m. wide, but 3 small islands form, as
it were, points d’appm'. The first wall
from Dauleshwaram on the E. side, to
the island called Pichika Lanka, is 1624
yards long; the second from Pichika
anka to Rali Island, is 954 yards; the
third to Mahfir Lanka is 516 yds. ; and
the fourth, to the village of Vij eshwaram,
on the \V. bank, is 862 ds. long. From
the Dauleshwaram, or ead sluice, two
canals have been cut leading E., the
Samarlakota, and Tulia Bégha. The
latter runs 30 m. to Kakfnada, on the
sea coast, and the traffic upon it is very
considerable. Besides these there are
the Rali canal, watering the Delta
proper ; the Gannaveram, which irri-
ates the Nagaram district; and the
alkol, Kakarparru, Venkia, Nakkala,
and Yelemanchilli canals, which water
the W. districts and part of Machl'rpa-
tanam. The cost of the Great Anakatt
was about £95,000, and that of the canals
for trafiic and for irrigation, £150,000.
Besides these artificial ducts there are in
the Delta the Tulia, Waiyaru, and Gosta
Nadi rivers, of which the two first have
been furnished with locks and embank-
merits. The Wai fun, with the aid of
the Venkia cana , has been rendered
navigable to within 18 m. of the town
of Machlipatanam, and boats can pass
from above the Anakatt, by the salt
river, which debouches between Chinna
Golapalam, and Samarladevi to the
sea.
The native population of Daulesh-


Jllazhas.
emJ£M—snnixixor.xM. 69
nourn 15.-—MADRAS r_o
war-am is about 4,000. The head quar-
ters of the Civil Engincer’s division are
there, the ofi‘icers' houses being on ‘a
rocky hill, about a mile from the river.
A steam engine is constantly employed
at the Government \Vorkshop and oun-
dry, and a -eat number of men are en-
aged at t e Quarry and other neigh-
ouring works, so that with the steamers
on the river incessantly pl ing to and
fro, a scene is daily exhi ited which
realizes somewhat of the bustle of our
Western marts. Between Dauleshwaram
and Rajamahéndri is the sugar factory
of Arbuthnot and Co., which has been
established some years, and contributes
much to the prosperity of the district.
The expenditure at this factory is said to
be between £40,000 and 50,000 a year.
The cloths made at Rajamahéndri
were once in high repute in the English
market; and napkins, table cloths, and
drills are still largely manufactured.
Fine muslins are made at Updda, near
Kakinada. '
The lively authoress of the “Letters
from Madras” (p. 42), describes Raja-
mahéndri as “a most lovely spot, on
the banks of a magnificent river, with
fine hills in the distance.” The Goda-
vari is, indeed, a noble stream at this
place, being nearly 2 miles wide, and
the assage of it was a business of time
unt' lately, when a steam ferry was
established, conducted by a joint-stock
company, of which the members are
chiefly natives. The hills teem with
game of the nobler kind, such as
tigers, bears, wild hogs, and leopards.
Antelopes, spotted deer, and elk, are
numerous in the plains, and bison are
occasionally found. Florican, and all
sorts of wild fowl are in inexhaustible
abundance—as are hares, pi eons, and
peacocks. On the other han , the heat
is intense during the dry weather, and
the plague of snakes, centipedes, flyin
bugs, and a thousand other reptile an
insect torments is so great as to mar
what would otherwise be the Sports-
rnan’s Paradise.
The road is excellent as far as Tuni,
after which it is not so good, and in
the rains it is excessively heavy and
bad.
(d) Viiayanagaram is the capital of
a Zamindari of great extent, which has
been alread noticed (see Prely. Inf.)
It is 12 mi es from the sea, situate on
ground sloping ently to the N. The
climate is so salubrious from Se tember
to March, that the Europeans at ishak-
patauam resort hither for change. In
the adjacent hills, however, a spur of
the Ghats, which come down to within 6
miles of Vij ayanagaram, fever is endemic.
Vijayana aram is the station of a native
corps, an a detachment of foot artillery.
A large tank divides the cantonment
from the town. A church which holds
150 persons has been erected, and is
visited by the Chaplain of Vishakpata»
nam once in 3 months. A s uare stone
fort, with 4 enormous roun bastions,
incloses the Rajéfs palace, which has an
open square in the centre, an arcaded
hall of audience, and fountains. The
town, which has a population of 15,000
persons, exclusive of the garrison, is
connected with the seaport of .Bhimam'-
patanam (or Bimlipatam), by an ex-
cellent road. The country around is
very rich, and it is altogether a thriving
place. It is remarkable that the cholera
has never been epidemic in this canton-
ment.
From Vijayanagaram the road turns
almost at a right angle down to the sea
coast, the next station, Kondda, being
a seaport. At Kétapdlliam the water
is brackish, and rather insufiicient.
(e) Shrikdkolam (Chicacole) is the
chief civil station in the Collectorate of
Gan'am. The ‘udge and sub-collector
resi e there. t is about 4 miles from
the sea on the N. bank of the river
N a la, which rises in the mountains
of ondwana, near Polkonda, and over
which a bridge of masonry has been
completed. The population is said to
be 50,000 b some authorities (Statis-
tical Report, adras, 1844), but according
to the census of 1851, it appears to have
been then only 12,800, of which 1,287
were Muhammadans. There are also
about 150 native Christians. Shrike.-
kolam was ancientl the capital of a
Hindu kingdom, an subsequently of a
Sarkar or province, but there are no re-
mains of its greatness. There is, how-


70
Sect. II.
noun: 15.—MADBAS T0 osNJ.iu—xaLnves1=s'rivsM.
ever, a mosque of some sanctity, built
b Shekh Muhammad Eran, s.u., 1051.
Tile town is ill-built and straggling.
Owing to the flatness of the surrounding
country, the streets are frequently
almost impassable after rain. To secure
flooring, the houses are all raised
from 2 to 4 ft. from the ground. There
are several very lar e tanks about 5 or
6 miles ofl', covere with rank vegeta-
tion, and in the dry season these are
productive of malaria. In the bed of
the river are a number of granite rocks.
A lar e one about 1; mile S.E. of the
town is called the Black Rock, between
which and the town were former] the
alaces and gardens of the N fiwa s of
hrikakolam. A detachment from the
native corps stationed at Burhanpur, or
Russellkonda, garrisons Shrike. clam.
The barracks, hospital, magazines, and
residences of the ofiicers, as well as the
post-ofiice, treasury, and oflice of the
assistant-collector, are all within the
precincts of an old mud fort, to the N.
of the town, which is in such a ruinous
condition that its walls are hardly to be
traced. The court-house and jail are
near the river, about half-a-mile from
the cantonment. A beautifully fine
muslin is made at Shrfkakolam, similar
to that of Dhaka (Daccaz.
(f) Kalingapatnam Kalinga city),
in the name of which the ancient appel-
lation of the whole province of Ganj am
is preserved, is a seaport on the S. bank
of the Vimgsédlidra or Vanahadara
river, which is 1,180 yards broad, with
a sandy bed. Under Muhammadan
rule it was a place of much trade, as is
testified by the remains of a large town,
with numerous mosques and burial places.
It is now recovering its im ortance as a
harbour, being, except ranga (Co-
ringa), the safest place to anchor in,
during the S.E. monsoon, on the whole
coast. The Garra hill, near the station
of that name, is a ood sailing mark
for vessels bound to t is port.
There is nothing to be noticed respect-
ing the stations between_Kalin_qapatnam
and Ichchhdpur, except that excellent
fish, particularly oysters and whiting,
are procurable at some of them. The
traveller therefore may note the tide,
and give strict injunctions for a fish
repast. Water is scarce and bad at
Ambugrdm, and bad and muddy at
Burgrdm. The small well in the vil-
lage is brackish.
(g) Ichchhdpur (“Wish-town") hasa
large native (pppulation, and is the sta-
tion of a Sa Amin. Hence there is
another road to Gan'am, as follows :-—
Burhanpur, 16 m.; hhatra ur, 14 m.
3 f.; Ganjam, 4 m. 5 f. otal from
Madras to Ganjlim, 675 m. 5 f. Bur-
hdnpur (Berhampore) is the chief mili-
tary station in the collectorate of
Ganjam, having been selected for
that purpose 41 years ago, when Gan-
jam was abandoned in consequence of
a dreadful fever which raged there.
Burhan ur stands on a rocky ridge sur-
roundedp by a well-cultivated plain,
which is bounded on the \V. and N. by
a range of hills, at from 8 to 10 m. dis-
tance, and is open to the S. and E.
The W. hills are high, and covered with
jungle to their very summits, where are
great numbers of bears, leopards, and
chitas, as well as hyaenas, tiger cats,
jackals and hares.
The native town, which has a popula-
tion of 20,000, lies near the N. side of
the cantonment. It is famous for its
silk manufacture. A macadamized road
to Russellkonda is under construction.
It is to cost £14,224. The cantonment
is properly called Baupm", to distinguish
it rom the town.
The town of Aska, which is but
24 m. 1 f. distant from Burhanpur is
worth of a visit, in order to see the
flouiis ing sugar factory of Messrs.
Baring and Co. All the latest improve-
ments in machinery have been introduced
from England, and, by its operations,
this factory circulates no less a sum than
£50,000 per annum in the district.
Chlmtrapur is the place where the Col-
lector resides.
The two stations between Iehehhapur
and Ganj am require no particular notice.
Mzmsiarkéta is avery large and flourish-
ing village.
(h) Gimjdm, in lat. 19° 23', long 85°
7', was deserted in 1815, both as a mili-
ta? and civil station, in consequence of
a ever, which in 8 weeks carried ofl‘


Madras.
71
RouTE 15-MADRAs To GANJAM.
700 persons. The public buildings and
the houses and gardens of the civilians
were on a scale of grandeur, surpassing
all others in the Madras Presidency.
The principal arm of the Rishikulia
river is about one-third of a mile broad,
and, though fordable at most seasons,
is at all times difficult for cattle and
carts. Another more narrow but deeper
branch is crossed by a wooden bridge.
The Route hence to Calcutta is as
follows:–
STAGES.
PLACES. M. F. M. F.
Pryägi, t. 9........... • e - - - - - 11 7
Maulod... 9 2
Mithaktiá........... 12 2
Mánikapatnam ............ 10 1
Narsingapatnam............ 12 3
£ ATH, or PURI,
t. 0. ......... • * * * * * * * * * * .... 7 6 63 5
Amritapur .......... • • * * * * * * 12 0
Pipalgaon, or Pipalli...... 12 0
Balibanda, or Balwanta ... 14 1
KATAK (Cuttack), p. o. 11 51133
10 0
0
2
4.
2
PLACES.
M.
Bāripur ............... • * * * * * 10
Bhadrak .... ... 7
Simlia ...... .... 8
Soroh ........................ 11
Khuntapára, or Naya Sarai 12
Baleshwar (Balasore)..... ... 10
Haldipadda ... - - ... 8
Bastah ................. 7
Jaleshwar (Jellasore)...... 11
Dantun............... • * * * * * * * * 12
Bailda ......... .... 10
Makrampur... ... 10
Karakpur............ 9
MIDNAPUR. . . 6
Munibgarh ...... .... 8
Debra ........................ 8
Right b. of Khatan, or
ossàf r. at Pánchkura
Ghat........................ 9
Ditto Rupnarayan r. at
Koyelā Ghât ............ 11
Ditto Damuda r............. 7
Ulabareah ...... ... 7
Budge Budge ... ... 5
Calcutta ..................... 12
Total .........
STAGES.
F.
M.
F
|0
292 5
361 0


72 Sect. II.
HAIDARABAD.
Preliminary Information.
I. BOUNDARIES AND GENERAL Asracr or rim PBOVZNCI-1—SUB-DIVISIONS um
Cniar TOWNS.-—2. HISTORICAL SKI-:'ren—OAs'ras.
1. BOUNDARIES AND GENERAL ASPEU1‘ OF THE PROVINCE.
The large Province of Ijlaidarabad, so called from the capital (Arabic Haidar,
a proper name, lit. “ a lion,” and Persian a'ba'd, “ populated ”) occupies the whole
centre of the Dakhan. Its shape is that of a trapezium, the base or S. side of
which, from Ham asiigar, in lat. 15° 10', long. 76°, on the extreme W. to Mal-
kalgadi, in lat. 17 49', long. 81° 30' on the E., is 420 miles long. The E. side
of the province is 390 miles long from Malkalgadi to Mail Ghat, in lat. 21° 40',
long. 77° 15’; the N. side 220 miles from Mail Gh'at to Phultamba, in lat.
19° 47', long. 74° 40’; and the W. side 330 miles from Phultamba to Hampa
Sagar. This province is now, on all sides, surrounded by British territory; on
the E. b the latel acquired province of Nagpur, on the N. by the Sagar
D.; on t e W. by istricts belonging to the Bombay Presidency; and on the
S. by the Ceded Districts, and part of Guntiir and the N. Sarkars.
he general aspect of the province is that of a vast table land, dotted with
occasional hills, but corrugated by very few mountain ranges, and with a general
elevation of from 700 to 800 feet above the sea. The hills consist cliiefl of
dark coloured ranite, found in most places in large detached blocks, an in
others pervade by dykes of green stone. The soil between the granitic hills
is extremely fertile, and when capable of being irrigated, produces rich crops
of rice. In general, the fertility is in inverse ratio to the height above the level
of the sea. There are but few forests, and no natural lakes, except the eat
one of Pakhal, 120 miles N.E. of Haidarabad. Artificial lakes or tanks, ow-
ever, are very numerous.
The Godavari river almost bisects the province of Haidarahad, and the Varada
(Wurda) bounds it on the N.E., and separates it from Nagpur, until it joins
the Wain Ganga. The boundary is then continued by the united rivers, under
the name of Pranliita, until they fall into the Godiivaii, near Sirunch. Aiter
this, the Godavari may be said to form the E. limit, although a small strip on
its E. bank belongs to Haidarabad. In the same manner the Tunga Bhadra
forms the S. limit, until it joins the Krishna, whence that river continues the
boundary to the E. Ghiits. The drainage of this large country is entirely
from W. to E.
The Nigam’s territory is divided into four great provinces—I;Iaidarabad,
Aurangabad, Elichpur, and Bidar.
The Sub-divisions and Chief Towns are as follows :—
nsmsninin.
Taluks or Districts. Chief Towns. fioglgltgsrcgg %:§§:,_°§br£_m
1 Pangal Pangal aos ' es
2 Idgarh l’dga_rh ,, 1 20
3 Ghanpur Ghanpur 332 64
4 Dawarkonda Dawarkonda 376 1 12


Haidarābād. HISTORICAL SKETCH. 73
Táluks or Districts. Chief Towns. frc'. I'"
5 Nalgunda Nalgunda -
6 Kammamet Kammamet 335 160
7 Warangol Anamkonda 410 112
8 Bongar Mutakurür 374 48
9 Golkonda Fort Golkonda 395 6
10 Koilkonda Koilkonda f 350 76
Malkār, or Muzaf-
11 Malkar { farnagar } ** 88
12 Maidak Maidak 445 60
13 Kaulás Kaulás 483 90
14 Elgandal Elgandal 460 64
15 Malangarh Aknür 55 104
16 Ramgarh Chinnü 490 192
AURANGABAD. - -
Tāluks or Districts. Chief Towns. *'. P:#"
1 Baglána 99 35 - 75
2 Daulatābād Daulatābād 706 300
3 Jálnapur Jálnah 656 240
4 Bhir Bhír 640 234
5 Fathâbâd Fathâbâd, or Dharör 597 180
6 Perainda Perainda 590 200
BIDAR (BEEDER.)
Tāluks or Districts. Chief Towns. *'. #"
1 Kulbarga (Calberga) Kulbarga 430 120
2 Naladurga (Naldrug) Naladurga 561 160
3 Akalkót Akalkót 35 160
4 Kaliyani Kaliyani 510 100
5 Bidar { Bidar, or } 469 80
Muhammadābād
6 Nanchira 55 33 **
7 Pahtari Pahtari 600 212
BERAR.
Taluks or Districts. Chief Towns. r:#. #"
1 Baitálbári (Ajayanti) Songaon 33 300
2 Nernala Fort Nernala . 5% 346
3 Ga'algarh (Gāwelghur) Fort Gāwel 95 360
4 Maikar (Maihker) Maikar 646 240
5 Wasim (Waussim) Bâsim 625 320
6 Mahvar (Mahore) Mahūr 650 260
7 Kalam (Kullum) 55 55 350
2. HISTORICAL SKETCH-CASTES-EMPLOYMENTS OF THE NATIVES.
The history of the country now ruled by the Nigâm is mere conjecture until
the year 1292 A.D., 692 A.H., In the most ancient times this region seems to
have been divided into two kingdoms, called Chanderi and Vidarbha (Skr. vi,
“not,” darbha, “the sacred grass, Poa Cynosuroides,” because a saint is said to
have imprecated that no such grass should grow in the land, his son having
been killed there by a blade of # and Kundinan or Kundalpur was the capital.
Krishna's first wife is said to have been a daughter of Bhishmak, King of Kun-
4


74 nrsronrcu. sxmcn. Sect. II. Madras.
dalpur. Afterwards mention of the realm of Vidarhha is made in the Maha-
bharat, but from that time to the end of the 13th century its history to us is
a blank. The astonishin works, however, of Ilindfi industry remaining to us
in the caves of E'l(|r (El ore) and Ajayanti (Ajunta) show that a considerable
population must have existed in these regions in very early times. If it be true,
too, that Daulatabad or Kulbarga (as some German writers affirm), is the ancient
Tet-yapa, we must believe that 20 centuries ago the Dakhan was but little, if at all,
less opulous than at present.
n 1292 .\.1>., or, according to Briggs, in 1294 A.D., Allahu'd-din Khiljy,
nephew of J al!slu’d-din Finiz, Emperor of Delhi, and Governor of Manikpur,
in Awadh (Oude), obtained permission to invade the territories of the Hindfi
Rajas to the W. of his province. With 8000 chosen horse he advanced with
rapid marches against Ram Dev, Raja of the Dakhan; or, more properly, of
Devagarh, now Daulatabad. On his way he took and sacked the considerable
town of Elichpur. He then defeated the Raj£1’s son, and compelled the Riff;
to purchase his safet with prodigious sums. Flushed with this success, e
determined to seize t e throne of Delhi, which he effected by the murder of
Firiiz. After his accession to supreme power, Allfi.hu'd-din sent his generals
into the Dakhan, and reduced various provinces to subjection. In 1303, he
despatched a bod of horse to bcsiege Orankal (Warangol), an expedition
attended with indi ercnt success. In 1306, Malik Kaffir was sent with 100,000
horse to subjugatc the Dakhan. The first fruits of this inroad was the capture
of the beautiful Princess Dewal Devi, daughter of Rsja Karan Ran’, who was
subsequently married to Qizr Qman, eldest son of Allahu’d-din, and whose
loves are sung in a celebrated poem by Amir Iihusrau. In 1309, Malik Kaffir
took the town of Orankal, but the Raja purchased his retreat before the fort was
stormed.
Two years after, the same general carried his conquests even to the sea,
and built a mosque at Rfiméshwaram, which some suppose to be Cape Ramas,
in Kauara, and not the island opposite Ramnad. In 1321, Alif gen, the
eldest son of the Emperor G_hi -2\§u'd-din Tugl_1lak was obli ed to retreat from
the siege of Orankal, with the oss of nearly all his arm . ext year, however,
he returned with renewed forces and took Bidar, an afterwards (in 1323)
Orankal itself, the name of which he changed to Sultanpur, a designation
which was soon lost. Orankal had been founded in 1067. The Rafas of
Telingana and of the Karnatak revolted. In the same year the city of ijaya.-
nagar was founded, and became the capital of a powerful state. In 1339,
Alif @5111, now the Emperor Muhammad Tughlak, caused the population of
Delhi to emigrate to Devgarh, in the Dakhan, which he fortified and adorned,
changing its name to Daulatabad. He had before subjugpted nearly all the
Dakhan; but, in 1343, Bilal Dev, Res of the Karnata , or, according to
V§'ilks, two refu ee nobles from Orankal, founded the city of Vijayanagar, on
the Tunga Bha ra, and revolting against Tughlak, expelled the Muhammadans
from all their ossessions in the Dakhan except Daulatabad.
On the 12t of August, 1347, A.D., Hasan, a native of Delhi, who had been
surnamed Zafar Iflan, ascended the throne of Kulbarga, thence called Ahsanabad,
and was proclaimed the first Muhammadan kin of the Dakhan, by the title of
Allahu’d-din Hasan Shah Gangu Bahmani. e had been the servant of a
brahman astrologer, high in favor with Muhammad Tughlak; and when Né.siru’d-
din rebelled against that Emperor, and assumed the title of King at Daulatabad,
Hasan, who was then called Zafar Khan, greatly distinguished himself in action
with the Imperial troo s. Afterwards, having defeated and slain ’Imadu’l-Mulk,
the Em ror's son-in-liaw, in a great battle, Nasiru’d-din resigned the crown of
the Dak an in his favor. He soon extended his dominions; and, appointing the
astrologer Gangfi, who had predicted his success, prime minister, reigned with


_~
lfaidarébdd. rrrsronrcu. snnrcrr. 75
great wisdom. It is said that Gangu was the first brahman who took service
under a Muhammadan Prince.
Muhammad Shah, the second king of the Bahmani dynasty, in 1366 defeated
Bhoj Mall, the general of Krishna Ra’: of Vijayanagar in a great battle, in which
it is said 70,000 Hindus were slain. From that time the Rajas of Vijayanagar
and Tclingana paid tribute to him.
In 1378, Mahmud Shah became king; and so great was then the renown of
the Bahmani Court, that the celebrated Persian poet determined to visit it.
He embarked at Ormus, but the vessel encountered a tempest, and the Iranian
Horace at once abandoned the voyage, and despatched an ode to Mahmud as his
apology. It was under this reign, and that of his successor, Firuz, that the
Muhammadan sovereignty of the Dakhan reached its culminating oint.
Mahmud’s reign lasted 20 years, and in all that time he had occasion to uns eath
the sword but once either against foreign or internal enemies. At his death, some
short troubles ensued for afew months, during which (fl1iya§u’d-din and Shamsu’d-
din were crowned and deposed. Firuz Shah then mounted the throne in 1397,
and obtained great successes over the Rajas of Kehrla and Vijayanagar. In 1401 he
sent an embassy to the great conqueror Timur Lang (Tamerlane), who conferred on
him the sovereignty of Malwah and Gujarat in addition to his former dominions.
Firuz was never able, however, even to attempt the reduction of these kingdoms.
On the contrary, the close of his reign was disastrous; his armies were defeated by
Dev Rai of Vijayanagar, and he was at last deposed, and it is said strangled by
his own brother. Firuz died in 1422. He was a great patron of astronomy, and
in 1407 built an observatory on the summit of the Daulatabad Pass, the ruins of
which are still to be seen. In the early part of his reign the Dakhan was wasted
by the dreadful famine called Durga Devi, which, commencing in 1396, lasted 12
years, and exceeded everything of the kind of which the Hindus have any record.
Ahmad Shah, the brother and successor of Firuz, was a warlike and able monarch.
He entered the territory of the Raja of Vijayanagar, and compelled him to sue
for peace. The King of Malwah, Sultan Hnshang, havin invaded Telingana,
Ahmad Shah marched to the aid of the Raja of Orankal, an overthrew Hushang
in a great battle. In 1428 he sent his General, Maliku’t-tujjar, into the Konkan,
who ovcrran that province, and occupied the island of Mahian or Bombay, then
belonging to the King of Gujarat. That monarch despatched his son with an
army to encounter the invaders, and a desperate battle took place, in which the
brother. of Maliku’t-tutjjar and two other oflicers of high rank were slain, and the
Dakhan army sutfere a total defeat. To avenge this disaster, Ahmad Shah
Bahmani marched towards Gujarat, and fought near the Tapti an indecisive
action, which lasted, with great carnage, all day. After this he retired into his
own country. In 1432 he finished the fort of Ahmadabad, at Bidar, and restored
that ancient city, which, more than 2000 years before, had been the capital of the
Hindu Raju Bhim Sen, the loves of whose daughter Daman with Rajé. Nal of
Malwah are sung to this day throughout Hindustan, and were translated from
Sanskrit into Persian verse by Faizi at the command of the Emperor Akbar.
In the reign of Allahu’d-din Shah, the son and successor of Ahmad Shah, a.
sangninar war with Vfayanagar was concluded successfull by the Bahmani
King. is General, Ma iku't-tujjar, likewise defeated the lgin of Khandesh,
and subju<rated_ the greater part of the Konkan. But, in 1453, e was led with
his arm by Sirké, a Marétha chief, into a difficult pass, where he, with 500
noble aiyids of Madinah, and nearly 10,000 men, were slaughtered b the
Marathas, led by the chief of Vishalgarh. Al1ahu‘d-din's son, Humayun huh,
was only remarkable for his cruelties, whence he was called Zalim, “the tyrant.”
He caused his brother, Hasan I_{_h€m, to he cast to a tiger, which devoured him in
his presence ; and from a balcon gluttecl his eyes with watching the tortures of
7000 persons, male and female, w o were by his command hcwn in pieces, flayed,


76 HISTORICAL snzrcn. Sect. II. Madras.
boiled in oil, or otherwise destroyed with every refinement of cruelty. In 1461,
Nrgam Shah, the son of Humayfin, being but a child, the Rajfis of Orissa and
Telingana invaded his territories with a great army, but were repulsed. They,
however, soon took the field again; and, at the same time, Sultan Mahrnfid of
Malwah entered Nigam Shah's dominions, and after defeating him in a great
battle, occupied the city of Bidar. But the citadel resisted his efforts; and soon
after, the King of Gujarat advancing to the aid of Nigam Shah, Mahmfid was
ob_hged to retreat through Gondwana, where the greater part of his army
miserably perished.
Nighm Shah died A-1). 1463, exactly two years and one month after his
accession to the throne, on the very night of his nuptials with a Princess of
his own famil ; and was succeeded by his next brother, Muhammad Shah, who
was then in is ninth year. In 1470, his general, Ifliwéiah Mahmud Gawan,
took Vishalgarh, and srgnally avenged the death of Mah u't-tujjéir. He also
reduced other strongholds of the Marathas, and took the port and island of Goa
from the Rfia of Vijayanagar. Next year, another of Muhammad Shah's
generals, M ik Hasan Bahri, called Nl7,§1m1l'l-Mulk, reduced Rajamahéndri
and Kondapa1li(sce Preliminary Information, N .D.) At the same time, Yfisuf
’A'dil Ifian, Muhammad's deput in Berar, made various conquests in that
direction. In 1472, Muhamm himself stormed the fort of Belgam, and
annexed the town with all its dependencies to his empire. In 1477, he invaded
Orissa, the Raja of which country had stirred up a revolt in Rajamahéndri,
and took the ea ital, compelling the Raff; to pay tribute. He then remained
three years in ajamahendri, settlin his newly-conquered territories. He
likewise invaded the Karnatak, and sac ed the city and temples of Conjeveram,
where he obtained rodigious spoils; and subjugated the province of Machli- '
patanam, and severa districts bordering upon 1t. All these triumphs, however,
were tarnished and embittered by the slaughter of his faithful general and
minister, Mahmfid Gawan, whom he caused to be put to death on a false accu-
sation of treachery. From this event may be dated the dissolution of the
Biihmani empire, as Muhammad Shah’s other great generals made it the pretext
for retiring to their respective ovornments, where they soon rendered themselves
independent. Muhammad ha previously (1478 s.n.) divided his dominions
into eight rovinces, and assi e them as follows :—1. Vijayapur, to Qwfiah
Gawan, an at his death to fisuf 'Kdi1 Khan. 2. Ahsanabad, which mclu ed
Kulbarga, Naladur a, and Shela ur, to the Abissinian eunuch, Malik Dinar.
3. Daulatabad, to fisuf ’Adil _é.n, and after im to Mnlik Hasan Nigamu’l-
Mulk. 4. Junir, with the Konkan, to Fal_<_hru’1-Mulk. 5. Telingana, in-
cluding Rajamahéndri, Machlipatanam, &c., to Nigamu’l-Mulk, who governed
these through his son Malik Ahmad. 6. Orankal, to 'Azim Kllillh 7. Gawel
and Berar, to 'Imadu‘l-Mulk. 8. Mahfir, to the Abyssinian, I_{_hudawa.nd 1(_han.
Out of these eight principalities arose (after Muhammad Shah’s death,‘which
took place in 1482) the five kingdoms into which, in the year 1516, when Babar
conquered Delhi, the Dakhan was divided:—-1. The ’A’dil Shahi, Kings of
Vijayapur. 2. I_{u_t_h Shahi, Kings of Golkonda. 3. ’Imad Shahf, Kings of
Berar. 4. Nigfim Shahi, Kings of Ahmadnagar. 5. Barid Shahi, Kings of
Bidar. The last Kings of the Bahmani dynasty, Mahmfid Shah II., Ahmad
Shah II., Allahu’d-din II., \Valiu'1lah Shah, and Kalimu’llah Shah were
mere c hers in the hands of the great chiefs, who founded the five new king-
doms. Far the dynasties of these Kings, see “Chronological Tables?)
After the reduction of the Dakhan by Aurangzib, it was governed by
Zu’lfi1_d1r Eran as Viceroy, with Daiid I_{h£in as second in command. Kam
Balihsh, the Emperor's youngest son, had Yija 'apur, but on his father's decease,
he engaged in an absurd contest with his el er brother, Sultan Mauzfim, and,
riding‘ out with a few hundred horse to encounter the whole Mugul army,


lfaidardbdd. nrsronrcn. SKETCH. 77
was cut to pieces with his followers. In 1765, at Mauz1'1m’s death, Mir 1_(amr1_1’d-
din, whose title was Chain Kulich Eran, was appointed Viceroy, and raised
to the still higher title of Ni_z_amu’l-Mulk, or “Re ulator of the Realm.” He
was of Tatar descent, and consequently of the unni faith. His ancestor,
Babau’d-din Nakshbandi, of Samarkand, founded in the 14th century the order
of N akshbandi darveshes, which still exists in Tatary and Turkey. ’Abid flan,
the grandfather of Niz,amu’l-Mnlk, was the first of the family who settled in
India, and while with Aurangzib‘s arm , was killed by a cannon shot, at the
siege of Golkonda, in 1686, falling before the very fortress of which his
grandson was to become the sovereign. ’A’bid’s son, _(fl1aziu'd-din, had been
appointed by Aurangzib to act under his son, Kam Bal_<_hsh, but when that
rmce resolved to oppose his elder brother, he accepted the Siibahdarship of
u'arat.
JAt this time, Nigamu’l-Mulk remained only a year and a few months at
Haidarabad. His government was then changed for that of Malwah; but in
1720, the first year of the reign of the Emperor Muhammad Shah, he incurred
the suspicion of the two Saiyids, who were then supreme at court. They
desired to remove him a ain, and offered him his choice of Multan, Khandesh,
Agra, and Allahabad. 0 this proposal he returned a haught reply; and,
crossing the Narmada, soon made himself complete master of the Da han. I-_Iusain
’Ali Khan, one of the Saiyids, then advanced with a great army to reduce him to
obedience, but was assassinated on his march, This was followed by the defeat
and death of his brother, Saiyid ’Abdu’llah, and the Vazirship was then ofifered
to Nigamu’l-Mulk, accepted, and held by him for a short time; but, on some
disgust, he withdrew from Delhi, and added to his other possessions in the
south, Gujarat and Malwah. Of these, however, he was soon dispossessed. After
the retreat of Nadir Shah from Delhi, Nigamu‘l-Mulk obtained the Vazirship
for his relation and artizan, Kamru‘d-din, and the high post of Amiru’l-’Umara
for his eldest son, _haziu’d-din. He himself returned hastily to the Dakhan
to defeat the projects of his second son, N a_z_ir Jan , then aiming at independence.
Him he defeated near Ahmadnagar; and the Saba s of Haidarabad, Aurangabad,
Elichpur, Bidar, Ahmadnagar, and Vijayapur, were permanently settled under
his rule. But though in reality independent, he acknowledged himself in form
the delegate of the Em eror, as his descendants have continued to do. Coins at
Haidarabad are stampe with the name of the Emperor of Delhi, and his name,
not that of the Nigam, is mentioned in the public prayers. The state seal of
the Nigam bears on it “servant of the Emperor;" and though he confers
titles on his own subjects, he receives his own from Delhi. The government
of Ni;amu’l-Mulk, though on the whole pros erous, was one continued struggle
with the Marathas, and at times he was re uced to great straits. He died at
Burhanpur on the 19th of June, 1740, in his 104th year. This remarkable
age was even exceeded by that of one of his oflicers, Anvaru’d-din, Niiwab of
the Karnatak, who was killed in his 107th ear, in a sanguinary action fought
at Ambur, with the French and Chanda Sahib about this same time. Ni;/,amu’l-
Mulk left six sons, Ql1_aziu’d-din, Nagir Jang, Salabat Jang, Nigam ’Ali,
Muhammad Sharif, and Mir Mughul. The eldest being at Delhi, N agir Jung
succeeded his father; and on the 5th of December, 1750, was treacherously shot
near Arcot, by Muhammad Khan, the Pathan Nfiwab of Kadapa, when on an
expedition into the Karnatak. This event was brought about by the intrigues
of M. Dupleix. Nagir was destitute of his father's prudence, but had many of
the qualities which go to form a gallant knight and an accomplished gentleman.
The vice-royalty of the Dakhan was now assumed by Hidayat Mahiu’d-din
Khan, andson of Nigamu’l-Mulk, and better known by his title of Mugaflhr
Fang. e was supported by the French under Bussy, but in the end of January,
17 51, he too, was slain in action. Salabat Jang was now elevated to the N i_/,axn..


~i._i
78 HISTORICAL SKETCH. Sect. II. Madras.
ship by the French, while the Peshwa supported the elder brother, Ghaziu’d-din.
The latter advanced towards the Dakhan with an army which has been computed
at 150,000 men, and would, doubtless, have been successful in his aims, but
accepting an invitation at Auran abad, he was oisoned by the mother of N igam
’Ali. Salabat Jung was now le in undisputed possession of the Dakhan. In
1756 he appointed his brothers governors of provinces, Ni;fun’Ali of Berér,
and Basalat Jang of Vijayapur. They soon conspired against him, having the
minister Shah Nawaz gran and the Marathas as confederates; but the arrival
of Bussy with 200 European cavalry, 500 European infantry, 5000 si ahis, and
10 field pieces, disconcerted all their schemes. Bussy's Diwan, Hai ar Jan ,
imprisoned Shah Nawfiz, and was meditating the imprisonment of Nigém ‘Adi
also, when he was murdered by the latter, who then fled to Burhfinpur. In
the tumult that ensued, Shah N awéz and his son were put to death by Lakshman,
a Siibahdar of French Sipahis, with whom I-_Iaidar J ang was very popular. This
tragedy took place on the llth of May, 1757. Bussy was soon after recalled
by the peremptory order of Lally, and left Haidarabad at the moment when
he might have consolidated the French power in the Dakhan, and, perhaps,
changed the destiny of Hindustan. The English now began to court Nigam
‘Ali, as his rupture with the French was irrcconcileable. This compelled
Salabat J ang to conclude the treaty with Colonel Fotde in 1759, by which he ceded
Machlipatanam and the adjacent districts to the English. He also re~
stored the'oflice of Diwan to Nigam ‘Ali. Next year Ahmadnagar was trea-
cherously given up to the Marfithas by Kawi J ang. This led to an immediate
war, in which the Nigam's forces were completely defeated near Dharfir, and the
Ni_1,fim, in consequence, was obliged to cede, not only Ahmadnagar, but also the
forts of Daulatabad, Sewnari, Asfrgarh, Vijayapur, and the province of .Aurang-
abiid, except the cit and two parganahs. On the 18th of July, 1761, Salabat
J ang was imprisone by Nigiun ’Ali, and having been recognized as Nigam in the
treaty of Paris of the 10th of February, 1763, and being thereby rendered an
object of jealousy to his ambitious brother, was by his order murdered in September
of that year. In 1766, General Calliaud, the first British Envoy that ever visited
Haidarabad, arrived in that city, and ne otiated a treaty, by which Nigam ’Ali
ceded the N. Sarkars to the English. In t e same year he pushed the Marathas
hard, and burned Piinah, their capital. In the preceding cam aign he had re-
covered Daulatabad. In 1790 he subsidized two battalions o English sipfihis
and one artillery corps, consisting of six guns manned by Europeans, and joined
Lord Cornwallis in the war with Tipfi. He was subsequently engaged in 1799
in Lord Wcllesley’s war with the same prince, and the English troops serving
with his contingent on that occasion were the first brigade which the Duke of
Wellington, then Colonel Welleslcy, ever commanded. Sir John Kennaway,
who was appointed Resident in 1788, was the first permanently accredited
English minister at this court. In 1798, the French force at Haidarabéd, of
14,000 men, with 124 European ofiicers, was disbanded by command of the
Bengal Government. On the 12th October, 1800, the Nigfim's subsidized force
was fixed at eight battalions of sipfihis, two regiments of cavalry, with the usual
complement of guns. For the payment of this force the territories acquired by
Nigiim ’Ali by the treaty of Seringapatam on the 13th of March, 1792, and that
of Maisfir on the 2nd of June, 1797, with a revenue of £874,000, were given
back to the Company. On the 6th of August, 1803, Nigam ’Ali died at Haida!"-
abad, and was succeeded b his son, Mirza Sikandar J ah. He was less well dis-
oscd to the English than is predecessor, and held aloof during the war with the
1 arathas. He died on the 20th of May, 1828, aged 59, and was succeeded by
his eldest son, Na_z_iru'd-daulat. l\’a_1,iru’d-daulat died on the 16th of Ma ,
1857, and was succeeded by his son Af;alu’d-daulat. His titles are Mugaffaru’ -
Manialik, Nigfimlfl-Mlllli, Mir Fflr@1.111<1fll1 ’.Al1' mm Bahadur Fath Jang.


Haidarābād. CASTEs—EMPLOYMENTs of THE NATIVEs. 79
There are few provinces in India where aboriginal races are so scant as in the
Nizam's dominions. The Bedars, however, are a warlike aboriginal tribe, who
have distinguished themselves much in the wars of the Dakhan. Briggs says
(Journal Royal Asiatic Society, vol. xiii., p. 294), “The Rājā of Sorapur, in the
heart of the Nizām's country, still holds his patrimonial appanage, surrounded by
his faithful tribe, claiming a descent of more than 30 centuries; and, up to the
middle of the last century, and even till the end of it, Bedar chiefs, with their
clans around them, retained considerable power in Mysore and the districts east of
it.” On the other hand, Pathán, i.e. Afghān, Turkish and Tátár families are
very numerous, and some of them are of very ancient descent. Mughuls and
Persians are also numerous, and among all these Muhammadans a deep feeling of
regret for their former greatness, and of dislike to the advances of a more civilized
government, prevails. Of the curious sect of Mahdi mention has already been
made (see Nizam Shahi dynasty). Notice of the Maratha tribes, which made so
£ a figure in the wars of the Dakhan, will fall more £ under the
reliminary Information to the Bombay. Presidency, Of all places in India,
Burhānpur, in Berar, is most famous for its Nách girls, who there seem to form
the greater part of its female population. . They are renowned for their beauty
and accomplishments, and some of them, in the olden time, have risen even to
sovereign dignity. Thus Aminah, a Nách girl, was married by Burhān Nizam
Sháh, and continued to be his queen and favourite wife even after he had espoused
a princess of Vijayapur. -


80 ROUTE 18.—MADRAs
Sect. II.
To HAIDARABAD.
ROUTE 18.
MADRAs To HAIDARABAD AND SIKAN-
DARABAD, BY sulüRPKT, NELLóR,
ANGULA, NAKRIKAL, AND HAITI-
PAMLA. 391 M. 5 F.
For this Route, as far as Angula,
see Route 10, Centre Division.
MILITARY AUTHORITY—Officer Com-
manding Centre Division—Madras, as
far as Krishna rr.b. after Pondigal.
Then Officer Commanding Haidarābād,
subsidiary force—Sikandardbad.
CIVIL AUTHORITY – Collector of
Chengalpatt–Pallikarni, to Salt-water
Inlet, after Wobalapuram. Thence to
Chontupalliam, after Ardinghi: Col-
lector of Nellūr—Nellur. hence to
Krishna, r.r.b. Collector of Guntair—
Guntur. Thence to Sikandarābād—
British Resident at Haidarabad.
PLACES. STAGES.
M. F. M. F.
ANGULA (Ongole)...... 185 6 185 6
x n. to Lingamgunta...... 3 5
x 2 n. to Tudavapadu.... 1 7%
x n. to YELLAMPALLI,b. 4 0} 9 5
Gundlakamma, r. r. b..... 0 1
Ditto, l.b.................... 0 0}
Guntalgapalla.............. 0 6
x n. to Timmanapalliam, 2 7%
Boluvárupălliam........... 4 1
Ardinghi, b. t. o.... ... 4 4} 12 4}
Bhavanāshí ndld ......... 4 13
x 5 n. to Chontupalliam, 2 5
x n. to KOPPERAPAD, 2 3 9 13
x 3 m. to Tankâralingam-
gudepādu ........ ... 2 6
Kammalpdd, b.............. 3 5
x 4 n. to WELLECHUR, 4 0 103
x 2 n. to Putuvaripalliam 3 5
x n. to Tarumella......... 2 1
x n and road.............. 0.6%
ROMPECHIRLA, b...... 27} 94
x 2 n. to Santagudipadu, 3 3
Bâravāripálliam............ 3 0
Gorgaya nald to Wippar-
lah ........ ........ 04
Tallagandla...... ... 4 0
NAKRIKAL, b............ 1 1 12 0
x n. to Tripurapuram.... 2 3
Navalepuri.................. 2 5
Pillaruvágu nald . 0 2}
Kotanamalepuri............ 0.7%
Yerravágundla ........... 1 6
PEDDIGURAL, b......., 1 1 91
PLACES,
x n. to Brdhmanapalli...
x 2 n. to Tammalachervu
A Tank.................. --
DACHAPALLI, b. t. o...
x Nâgalár, r...............
Gaumalpád.....
A tank.......
Ditto............ • -
PONDIGAL, b...
Krishna, r. r. b...
Ditto, r. l. b................
WARAPALLI, b. -
Dámalcherla................
x 2 n. to Kondrapadu....
Krishnapuram..............
Gudair........................
MERIALGUDIAM, (b...
x 2 n. to Yámalpalli......
Kukádam ...................
Madhugalpalli.............
x 2 n. Salarmeagudiam..
TIPARTI, b................
x n, to Indralúr.. -
Gorangilapalli....
x 3 m. to Nakerak * * *
HAITIPAMLA, b, .......
x 2 n. to Kattangúr......
x n. to Bārangundla......
Lingodam...................
Pusalpädu...................
NARKAILPALLI, b.....
Gopalaipalli................
Chittala ......
GUNDRAMPALLI, b...
Pantanghi...................
x 2 n. to Chautupalli.....
rd. to Nallakonda .........
Nagaram ...................
Kaitarpuram................
MALKAPUR, b. ..........
x n. to Chiniairu nālāh
(bridged) .................
Battasingaram. • •
Mandupam...........
AMBA.RIPET, b.
Guntalór ....................
(a). Haidtnagar, 9 m, 6f.
from which is Haidar-
dbad, and (b) Golkonda,
7 m. W. of Haidarābād
Annáram.....................
STAGES.
M. F. M. F.
4.6%
2 0}
22}
4 3 13.4%
0 2
1 7}
2 6
1 3
1 7 8 13
0 2
0 4
0 1 0 7
4 1}
4.4%
3 4
0 7}
2 7} 16 1
4 4
3 2
2 4
2 7
1 5 14 6
3 1
1 4}
5 5
4 5} 150
3 0
4 1
1 5}
1 1}
1 5 11 5
2 5
2 2}
34%
3 4
2 3 14 3
1 63
4 4
27
0.3%
1 4
2 2 13 3
4 1
1 0
1 13
5 0 11 23
1 5}
0 7
1 7


_~



Madras.
PLACES. srmss.
M. r. M. r.
Mathalgudiam 1 3
Musi, r. r. 0 7%
Ditto, 1. b. 0 cg
rd. to Warangol 0 7}
UPAL .......... .. 0 3 s 1%
Auskanpalli 1 4
Nésaram ..... .. 1 5
Lallapét ............... .. 0 s
Cantonment Church....... 2 0
(e)SIKANDARABA’D,p.o.
and 6 m. to the N. (d)
(Boldram) ..... ...... .. 1 2 6 1
391 5
There is no place of importance
between Angula and Haidarabiid. The
country is level and open as far ns
Peddigural, when it first becomes hilly
and jungl . Near Pondigal it is very
stony. The road is good to Vellechiir,
where it becomes indifferent. At Dach-
apalli and Pondigal it is very hard and
stony. At Haitipamla it passes through
low Jungle infested with thieves. From
the next station to the end of the route
it is generally good, in some parts ex-
cellent.
Y ellampalli is a small village. Water
is procured from the Gundlakamma
river. Ardinyhi is a village about
four times larger than Yellampalli.
The Bhavandshi ndlzi is about 250
yards wide, but offers no im ediment
to the passage of troops. he next
four stations are small villages, and
require no particular remark. .Da'¢:h-
apalli is a larger place, with about 200
houses. The Ndgaldr river is 50 yards
broad, eight deep, and very rapid in
the rainy season. At Pondigal there
is always a supply of water irom the
Krishna. Pondigal itself is a small
village. Wa1'rapalli presents every con-
venience for a camp, if a force should
require to halt there. From Haia't-
mzgar a road diverges to Haidarabad,
as follows : — Sirwanagar, 5 m. 4 f.
(a good place for a camP) § Gate of the
Residency, Haidardbdd, 4 m. 2 f.;
Sikandardbdd, 4 m. Total from Madras,
893 m. 5 f.
(a) I_Im'dara'ba'd. — This city was
founded by the third son of Ibrahim
nouns 18.-—MADRAS T0 irsinsninin.
81
Kutb Shah Muhammad l_(uli, who, in
1589, determined to remove the seat oi
his government from Golkonda on ac-
count of its want of water, and conse-
quent unhcalthiness. - He therefore
built a new city on the banks of the
Musi river, 10 m. from his former
capital, and called it Bhagnagar, “ for-
tunate city," from his favourite mistress
Bhagmati, but after her death he named
it Haidarabad, “the city of Ijlaidar,”
though for many years it retained its
former appellation. A fine mosque, and
the Uhahdr Mindr, “four minarets,” a
college in the centre of this city, were
among his public works. _
Soon after establishing himself in his
new metropolis, Muhamiiiad Kuli coni-
menced an aggressive war with the
neighbouring Hindu Rojas. He took
the strong fortress of Gandikota, and
one of his detachments sacked the city
of Kadapa. Some of his troops pene-
trated even to the frontiers of Beng-.'il,
and he defeated the Raja of Orissa, and
sub'ugated the greatest part of the N.
Sar 'ars. In 1603 an ambassador from
Shah ‘Abbas, king of Persia, arrived at
Haidarabfid with a ruby-studded crown
and other magnificent presents. The
palace of Dilkusha was allotted to the
Envoy, and he remained there six years,
receiving from Muhammad Kuli £2,000
yearly for his expenses. When he re-
turned to Persia, Hffi Karam ’Ali, an
ofiicer of the Court o Haidarabad, ac-
companied him, bearing return presents,
amon st which was some gold cloth,
man actured at Paitan, which it took
5 years to complete. In 1611 Muham-
mad Kuli died, after a most prosperous
reign of 34 ears. Besides the works
already mentioned, he left the following
memorials of his ma nifieence in the
vicinity of Haidaraba :-
1. The palace and gardens of Ilfiihi
Mahall.
2. The Muhammadi gardens.
3. The palace of Nabat Ghat.
4. The alms-house called the Langar
of the 12 Imams.
5. The Jam’a Masjid, or Cathedral
Mosque.
According to the accounts of Mir Abe
'_I_‘Ei.l.ib, the kiiig’s private treasurer,


~_
82
£2,800,000 was expended on public
works during the reign of Muhammad
Kuli ; and £24,000 was distributed
annually to the poor.
Sultan ’Abdti'llah, the brother of
.\lul_iammad Kali, succeeded him. The
Mu@uls now began to a pear on the
stage, and soon compelle the king of
Golkonda to pay tribute. In 1643,
’AbdL'i’llah gave his daughter in mar-
riage to Muhammad ’A'dil Shah of
Vijayapur, but this alliance had no
effect in checking the decline of their
states. In 1655 Haidariibad was at-
tacked by Aurangzib, and plundered of
great riches, and the yearly tribute was
raised to £800,000. ’Abdfi’ll'f1h died in
1672, and was succeeded by his son-in-
law, Abfi Husain, who, in his youth,
had been notorious for dissipated habits.
He fell entirely under the influence of a
Maratha brahman, named Madhuna
Pant, who became his prime minister.
In 1676, at the invitation of this man,
Sivaji entered Haidarabad with an
army of 70,000 men, on his way to the
Karnfitak, and concluded a treaty with
Abii Husain, from which that unfortu-
nate prince derived no advantage. In
September, 1687, Aurangzib stormed
the fort of Gclkonda, after a siege of 7
mouths, and Abfi Husain ended his life
a prisoner in the fort of Daulatabfid.
An instance of the conqueror’s pompous
and hypocritical politeness to his cap-
tive deserves mention. Abii Husain
was so pleased with the performance of
a Hindustani musician that he exclaim-
ed, “Would that I had a lakh of rupees
to bestow upon him!” The wis_h was
reported to Aurangzib, and he imme-
(liately bestowed the money on the per-
former.
It is very remarkable that such scant
descriptions of this celebrated ci_ty have,
as yet, been given to the ublic. The
brief notice of Hamilton is found re-
peated with trifling modifications in
English, German, and French books._A
tour through the N i;am's territory, with
a really graphic account of the prin-
cipal places in it, is altogether a deside-
ratum. _
The city of Haidarabad, the capital
of the Nig:'im’s dominions, is situate on
noun: l8.—)1ADBAS ro niinsaisin.

Sect. II.
the S. side of the Musi or Musah river,
which is there between 400 and 500 ft.
wide, runs very rapidly in the rains, but
has hardly 2 ft. of water in the dry
season. The city of Haidarabfid is
1,672 feet, and the cantonmcnt of
Sikandarabad 1,837 feet above the level
of the sea. The po ulation of Haidar-
abad is unknown. I amilton reckons it
at 200,000, which is probably much
under the mark. A late writer (Bevan)
describes its Muliammadan inhabitants
as “the most disorderly, turbulent, and
ferocious set of rufiians within the limits
of India." He adds, “No European
can venture to pass through the city un-
rovidcd with a suitable escort; Were
e to make the attcm t, he would not
escape insult, and per aps personal in-
jury." Therc are few manufactories;
the rincipal being silks, with gold em-
bro cry interwoven in the weft, called
Kimflwdb. Turbans also, and some
trinkets, are prettily made in the city.
The environs have a Wild but highly
picturesque appearance, being overspread
with granite hills and isolated rocks,
some of hemispherical form, others cubi-
cal or columnar.
Approached from the west, the ap-
pearance of Haidariibad is very striking:
the palace and numerous mosques, rising
above the surrounding buildings, give it
an air of grandeur, which is much
strengthened by the superb pile of build-
ings eiected as the British Residency.
These external attractions, however, as
is often the case in the East,~fade fast
awa as the traveller approaches the
wea stone wall, which did, indeed, for-
merl protect the town from the ravages
of aratha horse, but would prove but
a slight defence against the battering
guns of a European army. Internally
the city may claim to be considered as
one of the filthicstin India, and, but for
the ever- liding waters of the Must, it
would be airly intolerable.
In shape the town is a trape-
zoid, of which the N.\V. side, ex-
tending along the right bank of the
Musf, is 2} m.; the S.E. side, 2 m.;
the S., 1 iu.; and the S.\V., 1} m.
On the N. side of the Musi is a.
considerable suburb, built by the Hindii


_~
Madras.
merchants who supply the city, and
called the Baigam Bazar, or “Princess
Bazar,” because the imports levied there
are a perquisite of the Nizam’s princi-
al wife. In this quarter is the British
sidency, and the communication be-
tween it and the palace of the Nizam, is
kept up bya noble stone bri e, planned
and erected with much skill y Colonel
Oliphant, late of the Madras Engineers,
long a distinguished oflicer attached to
the Ni5am's service, and a director of
the East India Company. This fine
structure was built in 1831, of squared
granite stone. It has eight arches, semi-
elliptical, each of 56 ft. span and 18 ft.
rise, with iers 10 ft. wide, and a land
arch on t e N. side of 77 ft. span and
16 ft. rise. The bridge is 24 ft. wide on
the roadway. It cost £10,200.
The British Residency stands on
the site of a villa belonging to a
favorite adherent of Nizam ’A.li, and
was appropriated to the reception of
Sir John Kennaway, appointed Resi-
dent in 1788. The house was small
and inconvenient; and, in 1803, shortly
before Nizam 'Ali’s death, and while
Aristfi Jab was minister, and Colonel
Kirkpatrick Resident, the present Resi-
dency was begun. After various in-
terru tions, it was continued and com-
plete during the time that Mir ’A’lam
and Raja Chandu Lal were Ministers,
and Captain Sydenham and Mr. Russell,
Residents. The desi n was made by
Mr. P. Russell, son 0 the well-known
Royal Academician, and then an oflicer
of the Madras Engineers, who also
superintended the erection of the edifice,
which is remarkable, as well on other
accounts as for having been raised en-
tirely by native workmen. The north
front looks away from the river Musi
and the city. It is adorned with a
magnificent portico, supported by six
Corinthian columns. According to
some, the size of this portico is dis-
proportionately large, compared with
the rest of the building. A flight of 22
steps, havin on either side a colossal
sphinx, lea up to the portico, and
from the summit of the steps the gigan-
tic Corinthian columns rise to the to
of the uppervstory of the main buil -
nouns 18.-——MADRAS T0 nsrnsninin.

83
ing. They are faced with Chunam of
a azzling whiteness. The three points
of the pediment are surmounted by
statues, and the Company’s arms, in
alto relieve, form the centre ornament.
The interior of the portico, the cor-
nices, &c., are richly carved; the
pavement is an imitation, executed in
Chunam, of black and white marble.
The building stands in ornamental
pleasure grounds, with a circular basin
of water in front of the portico, the
whole enclosed by a wall with two gate-
wa s.
The lower story of the main building
is one of arches, and this story, con-
tinued with a balustrade, connects the
centre with two win s. The second
stor contains the 'ning-room, &c.,
use on ordinary occasions. Three
lofty folding doors lead into a very
statel hall, spacious and well-propor-
tione , supported by 32 columns, with
architrave and cornices to correspond.
Three splendid chandeliers hang from
the ceiling; the furniture is of ma-
hogany, manufactured at Calcutta. A
smaller saloon ad'oins at either end,
similarly furnishe , where the Resi-
dency oflicers usually take their meals.
The staircase is the grandest in India,
each step being a single block of the
finest granite; the walls, which are
circular, are richly ornamented with
stucco work, the niches containing
statues of the Grecian divinities. The
upper story is used only for State re-
ceptions. The apartments blaze with
gilding and the richest hangings. The
walls are hun with the finest scarlet
cloth, bordere with gold; and the
mirrors between the windows are of a
gigantic size, reaching from the ceiling
to the ground. The chandeliers cost a
prodigious sum, and the lighting of the
Residency on a single reception night,
in former times used to cost £1000. On
such occasions the crowd was so great,
and the number of those who tried to
force an entrance so excessive, that
swords were often drawn, and blood
shed in repelling them. While the
male visitors were received by the Resi-
dent, their wives were entertained by
the Resident's lady, in a superb man-


~*
84
sion attached to the Residency, called
the Ran Mahall. This was built b
Colonel irkpatrick, who formerly fille
the office of En lish Minister at the
Niaanfs Court. e married an Indian
Princess, and built this alace for her
abode. It was enclosed a ter the Asiatic
manner by high walls, the centre con-
taining a large marble basin filled with
water, and fed by numerous fountains,
lined with stately cypress trees. The
pavilions, galleries, and terraces around
were ornamented in the richest st le of
Oriental architecture, with a pro usion
of delicate trellis-work, painting, and
gilding. As the entertainments were
conducted in the Oriental fashion, N ach
girls were commonly introduced, splen-
didly dressed; some of them have been
known to wear £30,000 worth of jewels.
There is a large lake a few miles
S. of Haidarabad, which supplies the
city with water. The dam is of solid
masonry, constructed by Captain P.
Russell, who built the Residency,
whence it is called “ Engineer’s Lake ”
by the Europeans, and by the natives the
lake of Mir ’A'lam, from the minister
during whose government it was com-
mcnced. It was finished by Muniru‘l-
Mulk, at a cost of £80,000. The dam is
formed of a series of 21 ve large granite
arches, laid on their si es, with the
semi-circular projection opposed to the
body of water. These arches are not
ranged in a straight line, but form in
the aggregate the se ent of a circle.
Nineteen of them are 150 feet, the other
two 250 feet, in the span, with 150
feet of wall at the end, making in all
3,350 feet. When full, this sheet
of water is nearly 20 miles in cir-
cumference, and covers 10,000 acres.
There is a good boat upon it, with both
oars and sails, belonging to the minister.
On the margin tents may be pitched,
and it is an excellent place for a plea-
sure party.
The Palace of the Ni_:,'a'm is badly
situated, and is a confined and not over-
clean building, without any pretensions
to splendour. M. Langles speaks of
the palace of the Nigam, in his time, as
more than a league in circumference,
and as tenanted by 600 beautiful ladies,
noon: l8.—-MADBAS ro mrnlniain.

Sect. II.
of whom the majority were Georgians
and Circassians, with a few Italians.
These were under the surveillance of an
Amazonian co s, who discharged the
duties entruste to eunuchs by our ally
of Constantinople. Like a similar
corps in the service of Ranjit Singh,
they wore uniforms resembling those of
our Si ahi regiments, and could per-
form t e manual and platoon exercises
with great smartness, and deliver a
volley with precision. The showed
great steadiness in action, an on some
occasions returned to the charge, when
the Ni_z_am's European force had been
driven back.
The finest private residence in the
city is the Palace of the late titular
Prime Minister, Maniru’l-Mulk, called
the Bdrah Dari, “Twelve Doors.” It
is now occupied by his grandson, Sela:
Jang, the present talented minister.
The ardens belonging to it are very
bcautifull laid out.
The alace of Slzamsdl-’ Umard,
which has been recentl erected, is also
worthy a visit. He, imself, is the
most respectable of all the nobles at the
N igam’s court.
The Old Palaces of the Ohahdr lfallall
and Dad Maliall, or “ Hall of Justice,"
which date from the time of ’Abdu'llah
I_(u_t_b Shah, or according to some, Mu-
hammad Kuli l_(u_t_b Shah (see above),
ma also be noticed. Two parts out
of our of the Chahar Mahall have lon
since fallen down, and on their cleare
sites corn is now sown.
As mi /ht be ex ected in such a
stronghol of the l\ uhammadan faith,
the mosques are ve numerous. The
Cathedral Mosque is uilt of stone, after
the lan of that at Makkah, and is
calle from it. It is large, but devoid
of ornament. The minarets, however,
are of an extraordinary height, and
may be discerned from a very great
distance. The pillars within are each
of a single piece of ranitc, highly
olished, and surprising y lofty. l‘lIe
akirs and other mendicants, who swarm
in the vicinity of this mosque, are most
extortionatc in their demands, and
think nothin of seizing the horses of
passing gent emen by the bridle, to


Madras.
85
RouTE 18.—MADRAs To HAIDARABAD-GoDKONDA.
enforce their appeals. The Mosque of
the Prophet is also of large dimensions.
But, perhaps, the most interesting
building in the city is the college,
called the Chahdr Mindr, of which men-
tion has been made above. It is built
where the four principal streets meet,
upon four grand arches, through which
the thoroughfares run. Above , are
several stories of apartments, and in
each story a different science was for-
merly taught. These chambers, alas !
are now turned into warehouses.
Above, and towering to a vast height,
rise the four minarets, whence the
building is named.
(b) Golkonda.–If the traveller makes
a stay at Haidarābād, even of a few days,
one day should be given to Golkonda.
The town is 6 m. 2. f. from the Resi-
dency, and 6 m.4 f. passing the Husain
Sagar tank from the centre of the can-
tonment at Sikandarābād. The fort
crowns a conical hill, and is deemed by
the natives impregnable, every advan-
tage being taken, according to the In-
dian style of fortification, of the masses
of granite heaped together by the hand
of nature. It is defended by several en-
closures, and the works are strong and
in good repair; and, as all the Nizām's
treasures are deposited there, a strict
guard is maintained. There are, how-
ever, within breaching distance (600
yards), several tombs of the Golkonda
kings—massive buildings, where bat-
teries might be erected which would
soon reduce the fortress. These tombs
bear testimony to their dangerous vi-
cinity to the fort by the marks of shot
fired at them when Aurangzib invested
the place. They are all of a uniform
character; each mausoleum standing in
the centre of a vast quadrangular ter-
race, approached on all sides by flights
of steps, which enter upon a rich ar-
cade, formed of an equal number of
ointed arches on each front, and
nished with a lofty balustrade, and a
minaret at each angle. The body of
the building, also quadrangular, rises
about 30 ft. above the upper terrace of
this arcade, and is also surrounded by a
balustrade, flanked with minarets of
smaller dimensions than those below.
From the centre of this part of the
building springs the kubbah, or dome,
which, by its magnitude, adds greatly to
the grandeur of the edifice. The prin-
cipal material employed is grey granite,
ornamented in some parts with stucco,
and, in others, with porcelain tiles. The
colors of the tiles retain their brilliancy
to the present day, and the extracts from
the Kurán, in white characters, on a
polished blue ground, have all the rich-
ness of enamel. A mosque is attached
to each tomb, which formerly possessed
the privileges of a sanctuary; and its
revenues, besides supporting a number
of priests, afforded a daily meal to the
neighbouring poor. The surroundin
gardens were beautifully planted, an
adorned with fountains, and with their
falling waters formed a delicious retreat
during any season in the year. Now
desolation and silence reign around, and
except the echoes which the footstep of
the traveller awakes, not a sound is
heard. The solitude adds, perhaps, to
the impressiveness of these stupendous
fabrics. Their vastness and solidity
strike at once upon the eye, and produce
a greater effect than the most elaborate
sculpture. Some of them are said to
have cost £150,000. The enamelled
work with which they are ornamented,
is reported to have been the performance
of artists brought from China for the
[' but there is every reason to
elieve that these decorations are of na-
tive workmanship, similar ornaments
being found at Vijayapur and Agra, and
in Bengal, Bahár and Sindh.
The country round is remarkable in
its character. The plain is heaped with
enormous masses of black granite, so
fantastically piled together, that the task
seems done by art. One huge rock is
thrown upon another until a gigantic
minaret is raised, the crowning mass
being often the largest of all, and appa-
rently requiring but a touch to roll
headlong down, and topple all its sup-
porters with it. The natives account
for this chaos after their usual strange
fashion. They say, “The great Archi-
tect of the universe having finished the
earthly part of creation, threw the
chips and refuse materials on this spot.”


86
Sect. II.
RouTE. 18.-MADRAs To sIKANDARABAD.
(c) Sikandardbad.—An excellent road,
equal to any in England, leads to Si-
kandarābād, distant 5 m., and thence
to the Nizam's cantonment of Bolāram,
5 m, further. On leaving Haidarābād,
it crosses the river Musi by the hand-
some bridge erected by Colonel Oliphant,
and then passes, for upwards of a mile,
over a gigantic dam (wide enough at
summit for 3 carriages to pass abreast),
carried across a £, and built to pen
the streams there, into a lake called
Husain Ságar, which lies 4 m. N. of
Haidarābād, and close to Sikandarābād.
This latter place, in lat. 17° 26', long.
78° 32', is the head quarters of the
Haidarābād subsidiary force, 6 m. N. of
the city of Haidarābād, and 4 from the
Residency. The cantonment extends in
a direct line from E. to W., nearly 3 m.
at right angles to the extremity of the
tank; and forms one long curved and
irregular street, with the officers' houses
ranged on either side. The Madras
road to Jálnah forms the N. limit, and
beyond them, on the N.W., are the
Horse Artillery lines, then a tank, a
burial ground, the Foot Artillery lines,
and, on the N.E., two very remarkable,
large granite hills, of a hemispherical
shape, lying about 3 m, asunder, and
completely isolated. They are both of
considerable height, with the tombs of
Fakirs on their summits. The nearer is
called Maula 'Ali; the other, named
Imām Zámin, is about one-fifth smaller.
There are annually great assemblages of
p' at them.
The original lines face the N., and
behind them is the bázár, commencing
at the E. end, and extending three-
fourths of the length of the cantonment,
and running parallel with it about 2 fur-
longs in the rear. To the E. of the whole
line, is the European Infantry barrack
(now condemned), and, proceeding W.,
the hospital and lines of the officers.
S. of these European lines are those of
a native corps added to the force in
1834; to the W. of these the lines of four
Native Regiments. St. John's Church,
a large handsome building, stands on
the highest ground of the cantonment,
due N. of the European barrack, and
divided from it by the Madras Road.
The Trimalgadi (Trimulgherry) bar-
racks, which have been # built,
beyond the Horse Artillery lines, to the
N.W., for the European regiment, con-
sist of ten ranges, eight of which occupy
an elevated ridge near the village
of Trimalgadi, about half-way between
the cantonment of Bolāram and Sikan-
darābād; and the other two occupy
a second ridge at a short distance
from the others. Each barrack range
consists of a principal room or hall, 172
ft. long, 24 ft. broad, and 26 feet high;
which being occupied by sixty men,
allows each occupant 1788 cubic ft. of
space. Extending the whole length of
this hall, on each side, is an enclosed,
and also an outer verandah; the former
being 12 ft., and the latter 10 ft. in
breadth, clear: the inner verandahs
have each a flat terraced roof, as well
as the principal hall; but the outer
verandahs are provided with a sloping
terraced roof, supported upon masonr
columns. Each inner verandah, whic
includes a space of 32,640 cubic ft.
is provided with fittings for 18 men.
Thus, 96 men will be the number that
can be accommodated in each barrack.
Besides this accommodation, each range
is furnished with two wings, and each
wing contains four apartments, well
suited for the non-commissioned officers.
The buildings are laid out so as to face
N. and S., the wings at each end being
respectively opposite to the E. and W.
There are also ten otherranges of build-
ings to be occupied by the married men
of the regiment. Each of these groups
contain twelve families, besides a non-
commissioned officer. Each married
soldier will have two rooms, one of
16 x 14 ft., and the other 16 x 10, with
a private garden in front, and in the
back yard a separate cook-room, bath,
etc., for each family.
In connection with these, there is an
hospital, containing accommodation for
144 men, besides a large number of
women. The dimensions of the two
principal wards are, 274 ft. by 19 high,
and 40 wide, allowing each occupant
1450 cubic ft. of space. The building
is 320 ft. long, and 100 broad, exter-
nally. The lower and upper stories


Madras.
87
RouTE 19.—SIKANDARABXD To ÉLóRA.
will be provided with deep, colonnaded
verandahs, and the interior accommo-
dation contains rooms for apothecaries,
nurses, medical stores, bath and store-
rooms, etc.
The total cost is 11,81,490 rs., of
which 5 lakhs are for the barracks, 2}
lákhs for the married men's quarters,
1 lakh for the hospital, and the remain-
# portion for the auxiliary buildings.
he whole population of Sikandarābād
is about 40,000. A European Regi-
ment, and 5 Native Infantry Regiments,
1 Regiment of Native Cavalry, 1 troop
of Horse Artillery, and 4 companies of
Foot Artillery, are cantoned there.
(d) Boldram lies about twelve miles
N. of Haidarābād, and five N. of Sikan-
darābād. It was first occupied by the
Nizām's troops in 1815, and ever since
that time it has been famous for its
salubrity and exemption from the perio-
dical ravages of fever, to which Sikan-
darábād is subject. It stands on a
granitic ridge, 1,890 ft. above the sea,
and about 60 ft. higher than Sikandar-
abád. This ridge is of considerable
extent, six or eight miles in circum-
ference, but is bounded on all sides by
rice fields. The gardens produce all
kinds of European vegetables, in great
perfection. Mangoes, grapes, figs,
strawberries, and pine apples are also
particularly fine. There are lines for
two battalions of infantry, a Risâlah,
or squadron of 200 irregular horse,
and 250 artillerymen. Bolāram is so
healthy that invalids resort to it from
other stations, for change of air. No
rank vegetation is permitted to spring
up within the limits of the cantonment;
the hedgerows are cut down annually
to a certain height, and the place is
consequently open, and in a great
measure free from the noxious exha-
lations which are the frequent causes of
sickness at large military stations.
ROUTE 19.
sIKANDARABAD To JALNA (265M. 3 F.),
AURANGABAD (305M.2}. F.), DAULAT-
ABAD AND THE CAVES of E'LöRA
(ELLORA) AND AJAYANTI.
322 M. 7F. To E'LóRA (ELLORA).
MILITARY AUTHORITY—Officer com-
manding Haidarābād Subsidiary Force
—Sikandardbad.
CIVIL AUTHORITY – Resident at
Haidarābād-Haidardbad.
PLACES. STAGES.
M. F. M. F.
From Arsenal at Sikandar-
&bād to Rasalpur.......
Baigampéta........ • * * * * *
x n. to Bălănagaram...
KUKATLAPALLI ...
Nizāmpét..............
Miyānpuram .. - -
Gangăwaram..................
x n. to Rāmachandrapuram
PATANCHERU, b.........
x n. to Mutangi.........
x 2 n. to Rudraram ...
x n. to Kaulampéta..........
KANDI........................ 2
x 2 n. to Potareddipalli..... 2
6
2
6
2
12 0
x 5 m. to Nandi Kandi......
SADASHIVAPETA,b. t.o.
x n. to Yempalli and Nå-
galpalli....................... 3
x 3 m. to MUNUPALLI...
Kammampalli ..............
x to n. to Pedda Chilmaira,
x n. to Rartanapalli.........
x n. to Jarralapalli....
x n. to Bhorgaon....
Bápanpalli............... - - -
x 3 m. to SANGAM, b......
x 3 n. to Sítápur.......
x n. to Dumsalpur.....
x n. to Rāmatirtham........
GUNJATTI ..................
x n. to Shamsallápur..
Gumea ...............
x 3 m. to Allad
Bidarpéta begins
3
8
3
(a) BIDARPETA ends, b.
* 9............................ 8 5
x n. to Naubäd.... - - -
x 2 n. to Kulár ...... • * *
x n. to KANAPUR..........
x several n. and a Pass to
HALBARGA, b............
Taigampur.....................
x 2 n. to Ahmadābād..
x 2 n. to Upalla........
x 2 n. to Ambarsingu.
x 2 n. to Kótikilwādi.
Karrasudal...............
:
|
9 5
4 7


88 Route 19.—sIKANDAR&BáD To ÉLüRA. Sect. II.
PLACES. STAGES. PLACES. STAGES.
M. F. M. F. M. F. M. F.
x 'Inaivatullåh ndld to x Indadi r. twice to Ugar-
DIWAN KUPRA......... 2 2 12 1 lamba...................... ... 3 5
x n. to Manjira r. r. b...... 3 0 x n. to Babülgaon ......... 1 2
Ditto, l.b. . ..... 0 1 x 2 n. to MANDAKALLI 2 2 10 2
Alstir..................... ... 0 1 x 2 n. to Baládi ............ 2 7
x 2 n. to Chandas ... 2 5 Saurgaon .......... . 1 4
x n. to Digi.................... 0 7 x n. to Sahulf .... ... 1 0
x Daia rito MURGHPET,b.14 82 | x 3 m. to Utarwadi . ... 2 4
x Chikal n, to Tugarí ....... 3 6 x n. to MANWAT ......... 23 10 2
Sãwargaon..................... 1 4 x 3 m. to Karoba .... ... 30
x 4 n. to Mugah ... 1 0 Karanjí .......... . 1 4
Bahmani........... ... 10 x n. to Pipalgaon......... . 2 2
x 3 m. to Malawá. ... 2 0 x Khajurah r. to Dikarshi. 1 5
# x n. to UDGIR, b ... 26 12 0 | SAILU ........................ 36 12 1
omnáthpur.............. ... 1 2 ... 32
x Ghat to Usnakawādi...... 26 . 1 6
x Ghát & 6 n. to Kallair...... 2 2 2 2 7 2
Isma'ilpur ..................... 0 4 x 2 n. to Chata Satona...... 1 7
Yekruka.... ... 1 3 x 2 n. to Rohma............... 27
x n. to Kinni... ... 2 0 x Woarpair r. to Woarpal 3 3
x n. to Sukni........ ... 1 1 x 2 n. to PARTUR......... 3 7 12 0
x 3 m. to HALLI.. ... 2 2 13 4 | x n. to Maslah....... ... 2 0
x Tair r. Anderaguli........ 0.6 x 2 n. to Jaulah... .... 20
x 3 m. to Gadaiwádí.. . 2 0 x n. to Ramjani.............. 3 3
Sopalli .............. ... 2 0 x n. to Chitragaon & Dadh-
x n. to Serür........ • • * - - - - - - 2 0 ná, r. r. b. ............ ... 2 6
x Laindin. and 3 others to Ditto, l.b. .. . 0 1
Talaigaon .................. 3 0 Pipalgaon...................... 1 3
x 2 n. to RAJURA......... 24 12 2 | X Gundalka r. to KARLAH 2 1 13 6
x 3 n. to Kålegaon ......... 2 4 Wadi ........................... 2 7
x Maniar r, and some n. to Wargaon......... . 5 0
Sumtāna..................... 3 0 x n. to Sárwádí 1 5
Khandálí ..... • * - - - - - - - 2 4 x 2 n. & Gundalka r. to
x a hill and 2 n. to SAWAR- (c) JALNAHCantonment,
GAON ..................... 4 0 12 0 49. 9... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 6 13 2
Jogalgaon ..................... 1 4 --
x Kallatin. to Poti ......... 1 3 265 3
Khandala ..................... 2 0 X Gundalka r................ 04:
Kaudgaon ... 1 7 x 3 ravines and a n to Nar-
x Masūl r.... 0 1 gawadi..................... 3 6
Wadi ........................... 1 3 x 2 ravines to Jalgaon..... 4 1
x a hill to GANGAKHAIR, x a ravine to Pándí ... 1 0
t. 0...... • • • • • • * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 3 1 11 3 | x n. to Pádalli............... 1 3
Godāvari, r., r. b. .. . 0.2% BADNAPUR FORT...... 04; 11 3
** l. b. .. . 0 1} Pass through a Péta, and
Chotá Khair......... . 0 1 cross n. to Wahaigaon... 6 13
• . 2 1 Chota Julgaon........... .... 04
. 2 0 Karrigaon..................... 1 7
. 1 5 x Lohara r.. .... 0
. 1 6 Jalgaon Fort. ... 0 1
. 2 3 KARUMAD ........ ... 3 5 13 0}
• • . 1 5 12 1 | x n to Kunbepal.... ... 2 7
x 3 n. to Bhorwan ........ . 3 1 x n. to Chandrávi........... 1 6


Madras.
89
RouTE 19.—sIKANDARABAD To ÉLURA—JALNAH.
PLACES. STAGES.
M. F. M. F.
x 3 m. and a ravine to Ján-
dah.......................... 2 5
x n. to CHIKALTHANA 1 4} 86}
Piraswädí.......... ...... 1 5%
Pásipur, E. Gate. . 2 2
, W. Gate........... 0 3}
(d) AURANGABAD, E.
gate, b.p.o.................. 0 2 6 5}
Ditto W. Gate ........ - - - - 2 0}
305 23
E'LURA (ELLORA)....174; 322 7
Along this road there are some ver
considerable towns, and it passes throug
a country which, from its rich black
soil, ought to be a garden; and, but
for long misgovernment, would be as
#' as any part of India. The
t station, Kukatlapalli, is a large
village; where, however, supplies are
but indifferent. The soil here is red,
but at the next station becomes black.
Patan Cheru, now only a large village,
was in ancient times a city, the remains
of which are still spread over a great
extent of country. It is to be observed
that the name Patan only applies to
cities of considerable size. Fragments
of temples of black granite, among
which images of Buddha are found,
mark the site of the former town. Sup-
plies are here most abundant. Kandi
is a good-sized village.
Saddshivapét is a large and populous
town. A market is held here every Wed-
nesday. Supplies are most abundant,
except firewood. The next two stations
are hamlets. At Gunjatti the country
assumes quite a different aspect, the
road passing now between hills.
& Bidar, once the capital of the
Da , is still a large and populous
town, surrounded by lofty walls, and
containing about 2000 houses. It
stands near the right bank of the Man-
jira river, on a table land, 2359 ft.
above the sea, and about 100 ft. above
the surrounding plain. Hamilton states
that the E. side alone is on rising
ground, and that 300 ft. high. There
are the remains of some fine buildings
still to be seen. It is noted for the
manufacture of Bidari ware, used for
the bowls of hukkahs and betel-boxes.
The material consists of a tutenag, or
alloy of 24 parts tin to one of copper.
It is £ black, with a mixture of
equal parts of muriate of ammonia and
saltpetre-earth, made into paste with
water. The color is very durable, and
is easily restored by rubbing it with oil
or butter. It shows off to advantage
the silver ornaments with which it is
usually adorned. There is a road hence
to the large town of Umnábad (vulg.
Homnabad).
The next four stations are small
villages. The road, which is tolerably
good to Murghpéta, becomes stony in
places after passing it, and bad in wet
weather, particularly at the Manjira
r1Wer.
(b) Udgir (Udayagiri) (“Sunrise
Mount”), Oudgheer of the Road Books,
and Oudghir of Hamilton. This is a
considerable # containing about
1000 houses. There is a fort also, and a
cypress garden. Supplies are abundant.
A road branches off hence to Shekhapur.
Near Magah there is a small Ghat,
which, though not steep, is extremely
Stony.
The next station—Halli—is a small
village. The road thence is very rough
in places, and crosses some Passes,
which are extremely rugged. In wet
weather the transport of guns is diffi-
cult. Rajira is a large village; Sdwar-
gaon, about one-third of its size. Gan-
gdkhair, or Khair, is a town with about
1,000 houses, and a well-supplied mar-
ket. There is a branch road thence to
Akolah and Perli. Before arriving at
Pångri, there is a náld, which it is dif-
ficult for carts to cross. The Godāvarí,
which is passed directly after leaving
Gangakhair, has steep, lofty banks of
hard black soil, and its bed is of black
sand and mud. It is unfordable from
June to October. During the rest of
the year the ford is good. Mandakalli
is a small village; Mainwat a petty town.
There is nothing particular to be re-
marked of the other stations, of which
Sailu and Partür are good-sized towns,
the other two places villages.
(c) Jalnah, or Jalnapur, is a con-
siderable town, or rather assemblage of


90
Sect. II.
noun: l9.—s1xAivnsiz$Bs'1> ro 1'-:Liins—AunA1<e,iB.in.
three towns: the Cantonment; Ka'di'r-
a'ba'd, a town on the left bank of the
river Gundalka, or Kandula, with 7,000
inhabitants, six furlongs from the can-
tonment; and old Jdlnah on the
opposite bank, with 10,000, of whom
one-fifth are Muslims. Kadiréibad is
surrounded b a high stone wall, and
J élnah is de ended by a strong well-
planned Fort, 1 mile 3 furlongs from the
cantonment. There was a flourishing
manufacture of silk and cotton about 50
years ago, both at J alnah and Kfidirabad,
which gave employment to 5000weavers.
Now, owin to the great influx and
cheapness 0 English manufactures, the
heavy taxation of the Nigam’s govern-
ment, and the rapacit of the oflicials,
the trade has greatly eclined, and the
weavers are reduced to 400, who are
chiefly employed on the coarser muslins
and cotton cloths. The cotton raised in
the neighbourhood is principall used
for home consumption, and is o a su-
perior qualit . At Kadirabad, a beau-
tiful scarlet ye is prepared, and sent to
Bombay, where it is much prized for its
brilliancy. The streets in J alnah and
Kadirabad are very narrow; the houses
are tiled, and some of them have 3 or 4
stories ornamented with figures from the
Hindu mythology, and with a corre-
sponding number of balconies and ve-
randahs. The ground floor is sometimes
of stonework, overlaid with burnt brick
and chunam, and the houses, generally,
have a cleanly appearance.
The Cantonment of Jdlnah is situated
on a gentle slope, with a small range of
hills, from one to two miles distant, to
the north, forming an amphitheatre, and
with the town of Kadirabad, at about
an equal distance, to the S.; and 'ust
beyond it the river Gundalka, ca led
Condoolon and Koondulka in the Sta-
tistical Reports. There are lines for one
troop of European Horse Artiller , one
Regiment of Native Cavalry, an 3 of
Native Infantry. The barracks were
built in 1827. The General Bazar in-
tervenes between Kadirabad and the
Infantr lines. The Cavalry lines are
on the .; N. of these are the Artillery
lines and the general parade.
The river Gundalka rises near Taperan

and Raj fir, two small villages, 16 m. to
the N. In its course it receives several
tributaries, and empties itself into the
Dfiidhnfi, a branch of the Godfivari, 15
miles to the S.E. During the monsoon,
it comes down with great violence, and
is then 100 yds. broad; but in the dry
season it sinks rapidly to 12 feet in
breadth, and IQ ft. in depth. It is
generally fordable at all seasons. The
Water is much esteemed by the natives.
When it subsides, deep pools are to be
found scattered along its bed, in which
are excellent fish. A dam across it,
with sluices, would preserve much valu-
able water through the hot season. The
climate is most salubrious, and is well
adapted for horticulture ; European
fruits and vegetables being grown in
great perfection. Old people of the ages
of 80 and 90 are not uncommon among
the natives of J iilnah. A recent writer
and enthusiastic sportsman, calls it “ a
most delightful cantonment, situated in
an open fertile oountry;” and speaks
much of the pleasures of the chase
there. He mentions antelope shooting,
and, in particular, coursing. The hares,
he says, are astonishingly fine and fleet,
so that to run down one is considered
the criterion of a good dog. The lines
are at present full, with the exception of
those of one infantry regiment.
(d) Aurangdbdd, on the left bank
of the Dudhna, a tributa of the
Godavari, is a city now in ecay, but
which still possesses a population of
about 60,000, though it once exceeded
100,000. It was formerly called Khirki,
and is said to have been founded in the
beginning of the 17th century, b Malik
Ambar (see Chronological ables) ;
but, in 1650, Aurangzib fixed his resi-
dence there for seven years, after which
it was called Aurangabad (“Throne-
town”), in compliment to him. It is
surrounded by a wall rather lower than
the defences of native fortified towns in
general, but with round towers at in-
tervals, on some of which are heavy
guns. From a distance the city has an
imposing appearance. Lofty minarets
peep out from among groves of trees;
the large white domes of mosques with
gilded points glitter in the sun, and


Madras. noun: l9.—-SIKANDARABAI) T0 1':1.r'm.s-.suns1vciB.in.
91
contrast well with the abundance of
green foliage within the walls; and
a number of large, terraced houses rise
high above the ramparts. But on en-
tering the gates the scene changes, and
it is evident that desolation has done
its work on the once imperial city. It
is still, however, the capital of the pro-
vince of Berar, and continued to be
the residence of the native Governor,
and the head-quarters of the Nizanfs
forces which occupied that territory,
till its cession to the British in 1855.
The late Governor, who had resided
for some time at J alnah, moved here in
1811. The streets are broad, and a few
of them are paved. The public build-
ings, mosques, and caravanseras are of
a superior description, and Aurangabad
is still famous for its manufacture of
silks, its gold and silver brocades, and
tissues, as well as for its gardens, fruits,
and vegetable productions of every kind.
Although the city is built in a plain,
with low hills at some distance, its al-
titude above the sea, which is 1885 ft., as-
sures it a climate of comparative coolness;
and it is remarkable for the abundance
and excellence of its water, almost eve
house having its own spring. Indec ,
it was the salubrity of the place, the
broad stream of the Diidhna, a11d the
vicinit of the then deemed impregnable
fort o Daulatahed, that recommended
it to Aurangzib as a residence. The
pleasures of the chase, too, may be fully
enjoyed, without there being any dense
jungle to engender malaria. Wild fowl,
partridges, peacocks, quails, hares, foxes,
Jackals, tigers, wild hogs, deer, and
wolves may be found in the neighbour-
hood. The princifil sights are Aurang-
zib.’s palace, the l ausoleum of Rabia
Durrani, the J am'a Masjid, and some of
the gardens.
/1urangzib’s Palace is, accordin to
Fitzclarence and Seely, a ruin, w ich
at the best had never any pretensions
to magnificence, and was rather typical
of that monarch’s parsimony than of his
s lendor. It stands on the S. side of
t e Dudhna, beyond which, and oppo-
site to the palace is the city wall, and
beyond that a ain the tomb of Rabia.
The city stretc es out to a great extent

either way, and from this point has a.
ver picturesque appearance.
he Tomb of Rubia .Durra’m' was
built in 1645, after the model of the
Taj at Agra, which was reared by Shah
J ahan, Aurangzib’s father, to the
memory of his favourite Sulténah, Mum-
tazah Be am, more generally known
by her tit e, Taj Mahall, “Diadem of
the Seraglio." Aurangzib's affection
was, however, less ex ensive than that
of his parent; for w ereas the Taj is
said to have cost £700,000, its imita-
tion at Aurangabad was raised for
£90,000, and is even meaner than the
difference of cost would make us anti-
cipate. The tomb stands within an
enclosure of about 30 acres, laid out in
gardens; the approach is throu h a
gateway, the doors of which are p ated
with embossed brass, into a paved
avenue, having a piece of water with
13 fountains in the centre, and shaded
with orange, lime, pomegranate, peach,
and apple trees. At the end of the
avenue, within a spacious terraced area,
stands the edifice, to which a few steps
lead up. The building is a square of
72 ft. From the foundation on the
terrace, for five feet upward, the material
is white marble. There are here three
windows of exquisite trellis-work, so
fine that it is inconceivable how the
chisel could have done its work without
leaving a flaw. Above five feet, the
structure is of stone faced with chunam,
but the great dome is of marble. There
are two smaller domes and four mina-
rots, and at the four corners of the area,
four other and still taller minarets.
The tomb is in the centre of the build-
ing, and you descend to it by 24 steps,
like going into a bath. Its top reaches
to a level with the terrace. It is en-
closed by an octagonal screen of marble
trellis-work, exquisitely carved, each
face of the octagon being 9 ft. long,
9 ft. high, and but 4 inches thick! The
fioorwithin the screen is two inches above
the outer aisle, and the tomb itself
stands on a terrace 10 inches higher than
the floor. The whole of the vault is
faced with white marble. A few feet
above the tomb, a marble gallery runs
round the interior of the edifice, on e


92
RouTE 19.—sIKANDARABAD To #LüRA—AURANGABAD. Sect. II.
level with the three windows alread
mentioned. The tomb is covered wit
a pall of scarlet velvet, fringed with
£ and held down by eight marble
nobs. This the attendants, if re-
quested, will remove, but there is
nothing to repay curiosity but a plain
slab. It must be observed, that the
marble used in this edifice was brought
from Lahir, which, according to the
travelling in those days, was a four
months' journey. Tavernier, in 1645,
encountered 300 carts bringing large
# of marble from Lahár to Aurang-
&
The detached minarets at the corners
of the terrace are 72 ft. high, and are
ascended by a spiral stone staircase of
122 steps. At the top is a balcony 31 ft.
in circumference. The girth of each
minaret at the foundation is 48 ft. The
view from the top is very fine, ranging
all over the city and the surrounding
country. To the left of the Mausoleum,
between the gardens and the building,
on a raised terrace, is a handsome room
open on one side, 62 ft. by 54 ft., and
22 ft. high. The floor is of white
marble intersected with streaks of black,
but in some parts the marble has been
replaced by a chunam imitation of a
chocolate color. The open entrance is
a Gothic arch well carved. The building
is supported by fluted wooden pillars,
graduated to the capital, the flutings
being green and white alternately. This
room is called the Jam’a Khanah or as-
sembly room for the priests. At a little
distance, and close to a grove of fragrant
limes, is a smaller room, once richly
adorned with painting and carving.
This apartment is interesting as the
place where Aurangzíb was wont to
retire with Rabia and a learned Mullá
for devotional studies. From this, too,
the Emperor proceeded to his grand
hunts, when the country for 20 or
30 m. was surrounded and swept by
hunters.
The Jam'a Masjid or Cathedral Mosque
is plain in design. It faces Makkah, and
is open on one side. The roof is arched
and supported by pillars. This is all
that Seely says of it. Langlès gives a
view of it which resembles so much the
tomb of Rabia, as represented by Seely,
that it is perhaps a copy.
The gardens of Shāh Safi, a holy
man, who was the Pir or saintly adviser
of Aurangzib, are well laid out. The
Mausoleum is a neat building, which,
without the architectural attractions of
Rabia's tomb, receives more respect
from the Muhammadans, and is attended
by a greater number of pilgrims. The
descendant of Sháh Saff in Seely's time
£ was a gentleman of parts and in-
ormation. He had travelled to Rome
and Palestine, returning by Suez, and
had visited many other countries. The
gardens where he resided were well worth
visiting, and were remarkable for a
water-mill, a contrivance then unique in
India. These grounds may still attract
the traveller. # are adorned by two
large pieces of water, filled with innu-
merable shoals of fish, which are never
killed, but constantly fed by the owners.
A splendid future may confidently be
anticipated for Aurangābād, now that it
has come under the British Government.
Its position fits it to be the great em-
porium for Berar, the valley of the
Narmadá, and all the central Dakhan;
and a railroad will soon pass through it,
or in its vicinity.
The caves of E'lúra are close to Au-
rangābād, and the fortress of Daulat-
abád can be visited en route.
SUPPLEMENTARY ROUTE.
FROM AURANGABAD To E'LúRA (ELLORA)
BY DAULATABAD.
PLACES. STAGES.
M. F. M. F.
From the E. gate of the Fort
at Aurangābād, to the
Kaum river........ - -
Masiid ........
(a
9
1
Along the Péta Wall.........
(b)Gampunchesaor Pipalghat
To descent of Ghat..... .....
Foot of ditto..... .....
Kāghazpur...
(c) Rauzah......
Along the wall.. •-
Top of Ghat...................
}


-~


Madras.
PLACES. STAGES
M. P. M. F
0 4
(.1) E'LU'RA 0.... 1 2 s as
17 4%
The Kaum river has no water in the
dry season. Kaghagpur is in the Route
Book erroneously called Raguzpoor. It
has its name from a paper manufactory,
which, as Fitzclarence informs us, was
established there in consequence of the
advantageous vicinity of some large
tanks of spring water.
a) Daulatdbdd, “City of Wealth."
-— he route to this celebrated fortress
from Aurangabad, lies through a fertile
plain intersected with many streams.
[he fort is built on a huge isolated
conical rock of granite about 500 feet
high, with a perpendicular sc of 150
ft. all round. The rock above t is scarp
is of a sugar-loaf shape, with a sharp
point, and the whole may be likened to
a compressed bee-hive. At the base is
the native town, with now but very few
inhabitants. It is defended b a loop-
holed wall with bastions, whie on the
E. side joins the scarp of the fort. At
the bottom of the scarp is a ditch, be-
fore reaching which, four lines of wall,
including the outside wall of the Péta,
must be passed. The fosse can be crossed
only in one place by a stone causeway,
so narrow that only two men can obtain
a footing on it abreast, and commanded
on the side near the fort by a battle-
mented outwork. The only means of
ascendin the rock is throu h a narrow
passage ewn in the soli stone and
eading to a large vault in the interior.
From this a ramp or gallery gradually
slopin upwards, and also excavated in
the so 'd rock, winds round in the in-
terior. The first part of the ascent is
easy, towards the end it is diflicult. The
height averages from 10-to 12 ft., with
an equal breadth, and it is so dark that
torches are requisite.
In several parts of the ramp are small
trap-doors, with flights of steps commu-
nicating with the outer ditch. There is
an opening near the top of this gallery,
in a hollow of the rock, nearly 19 feet
square, and, in case of danger, this is
nourn 19.—siimivnsni'iia.in T0 r';i.iiim-—nsnLsriB.in.

93
covered with an immense iron plate, on
which a vast fire is kindled; and, to
make it bum the fiercer, there is a draft-
hole 3 ft. in diameter, cut through the
rock, through which a constant gush of
air acts as a bellows, and enters with
such force that a man can hardly stand
against it. Above and beyond this, the
road to the summit is very stee ,and on
the top is some scattered an stunted
brushwood. On the summit is a plat-
form, 20 feet square, on which a 24-
pounder is mounted, and where the
N igam’s flag (now replaced by that of
England) used to float. Tavernier says
this_ gun was raised here under the di-
rections of a European artille man, in
the service of the Great Mu ul, who
had been repeatedly refuse leave to
return to his native land, but was at
last promised it on some occasion when
the Emperor was passin near, if he
could mount the gun on t ' spot. Sti-
mulated by the promise, he at last suc-
ceeded, after great exertions. In a bend
of the subterraneous passage are re-
cesses excavated for stores, and there is a
cistern which will hold about 40 hogs-
heads of water. The road to the sum-
mit, after emerging from the ramp,
passes through the governor’s house,
which is a handsome buildin , surround-
ed by a verandah with 12 arc es, whence
it is called the Duwdzdah Darwdzah, or
“ Twelve-doors.” The outer wall of the
fort is 5,000 yards in circumference, and
is 15 feet thick at the base, and 48 feet
hi h. The space within is divided into
9 ortifications, separated by strong walls
rising adually above one another to-
wards t e centre, so that each interior
one commands those beyond. The view
from the summit is very fine, and the
resting place of Aurangzib, at Rauzah,
may be plainly discerned. Not far from
the causeway, which crosses the ditch, is
a minaret 120 ft. high, said to have been
erected by the Muhammadans, in com-
memoration of their first capture of the
place. At a short distance from this is
a tower, on which a heavy brass gun is
mounted, which Fitzclarence conjectures
would cast a ball of 60 lbs. weight. The
best authorities (see Ritter, vol. vi., p.
437), pronounce Daulatabad to be the


94 nourn 19.—s1mmma.im'n
T0 r':r.1'mA—-asm_zu1 Sect. II_

same as the ancient Tagara, and it seems
probable that there must have been a
vast population in this region at the
time the E'l(1ra caves were excavated;
for these works could have been finished
onlyb multitudes, great as those that
erecte thepyramids. In the year 1293,
A.D., Alla.hu‘d-din, afterwards Emperor
of Delhi, took the city of Deogarh, but
the citadel still held out. Subsequently
Allahraised the siege on receiving a rau-
som, the amount of which may well
appear incredible, 16,000 lbs. of pure
old, 175 lbs. of pearls, 60 lbs. of
iamonds, and 25,000 lbs. of silver
being enumerated among the items. So
much, at least, appears certain, that
Allé.hu'd-din levied an enormous sum
upon Deogarh, and that consequently it
must, at that time, have been a very
great city and a rich emporium. In
1338, A.D., Muhammad Shah Tughlak
removed the inhabitants of Delhi to
Deogarh, the name of which he changed
to Daulatabad. It was this Emperor
who dug the ditch round the rock, and
made the fortifications so strong. The
people, who had been brought from
Delhi, soon fled back to their homes,
and though the tyrant made a second
attempt to establish his capital in the
Dakhan, he was finally baflied. Still,
we may suppose that Daulatabad re-
ceived some accession to the number of
its inhabitants by these forced migra-
tions, enough to re air in some degree
the ravages of the uhammadans under
Allahu’d-din. For the subsequent his-
tory of the place, sec Preliminary Infor-
mation, Haidarabad. As the I_(il’adar,
or Governor of the Fort, lives some way
ofi', it will be better to send on before to
him the order for admission, or Ahkam,
which must be obtained from the oflicer
commanding at Aurangabad.
(I2) Pipalghdt, which is the Ghat
above Daulatabad, was paved by one of
Aurangzib’s courtiers, whose name, and
the date when he performed this ood
work, are recorded on two small pi ars,
about half way up the hill, which is ve
steep. N0 one has thought it wort
while to furnish a translation of what
is inscribed on these pillars, and Seely
remarks that he did not dismount to

inspect them; such is the apathy of
In ian travellers. The stones used in
paving the Ghat are many of them very
elaborately carved, and were probably
taken from some ruined building, which,
to judge from these relies, must have
been of great beauty. On the ascent,
as far as the pillars, there are exquisite
views of the fortress of Daulatabéd,
which from hence, indeed, appears
truly impregnable. After passing the
pillars, the road winds round the hill,
and the view of the fort is shut out. '
At the top, there is an extensive table
land to the right, the steep face of
which is similar to that of the range
of hills overlooking E'l1'ira, with which
it is connected by a ridge turning to
the N. at right angles. On this table
land are man Muhammadan tombs,
some large an of superior workman-
ship, extending all the way from the
road over Daulatabad to Rauzah, about
6 miles.
£0) Raugali, “Garden" or “Paradise,”
is amous as the burial place of Aurang-
zib. It is also remarkable for the
tombs of several saints revered by the
Muhammadans. Amon these worthies
lies Burhanu’d-din, a oly man, who
is said to have founded the city of Bur-
hanpur. The doors of the outer wall
of his mausoleum are plated with
silver, and the tomb is covered with a
pall of green velvet, the color being
emblematic of his descent from the Pro-
phet. Outside is a naubat Mdnah, and
there are many holy men attached to
the service of t eplace. The Tomb qf
the Emperor is comparatively mean and
insignificant, being a plain sarcopha
covered with green cloth, in a woo en
screen, not even painted. Aurangzib
is said by some to have reached the
age of 94 years, when he expired at
Ahmadnagar. His body, as had been
directed by himself, was removed to
Rauzah, and Fitzclarence ascribes the
simplicity of his tomb to his parsimony,
“the ruling passion strong 111 death;"
but, in fact, Aurangzib was a sincere
believer in Islam, and a strict follower
of its precepts, and, according to these
precepts, there should be no ostentation
111 death. The tomb of a true disciple


_~
Madras.
of the faith should be a plain turbat,
rising about two ft. from the ground,
and open to receive upon it the dews
of heaven. Rauzah is surrounded
by a stone wall, with a handsome gate
of the same material. There is a fine
view from it over Aurangabad and Dau-
latabad.
(d) E’lz2m (Ellora) is a pretty rural
village embosomed in trees, about a mile
from the foot of the hill on which
Raugah stands, and consequently from
the caves, for these are formed in the
face of the hill just mentioned. The
best description of the caves is that
given b Colonel Sykes, in the 3rd vol.
of the ombay Asiatic Society's Trans-
actions, and is for the most part fol-
lowed here. The hill in which the caves
are is of moderate height, and of a cres-
cent shape, the concavity facing the W.,
and the horns rising considerably above
the intermediate ridge. The slope of the
hill is in general easy; but is occasionally
interrupted by a disposition to stratifica-
tion in the rock, which in such places
presents a. perpendicular face of from
20 to 100 ft. About 200 yards up the
hill, which forms the N. horn, are the
Pdrasndth sculptures, and the extreme
cave to the S. is the 1_)he_r Wdya.
Commencing, then, with the N ., the
description proceeds S., till it ends with
the Dher Wara.
Pdrasndth, or more properly, .Pa'r-
swandth, “Lord of Purity,” is the name
of the Jain Deity, and it is here given
to an image, about 10 ft. high, of a
man in a sitting posture, with the hands
in the lap laid one within the other,
the fingers extended, and the alms
inwards. The hair is curly, an the
head is canopied by a seven-headed
serpent, whose folds, doubled behind
the image, serve it as a prop. From
the centre of the seat of the image half
projects a wheel, above which an astro-
nomical table is carved. Elephants’
and tigers’ heads support the seat on
either side. There are also 5 sitting
figures, and 1 standing figure of attend-
ants, decorated with ear-rings, neck-
laces, bracelets, and anklets. A banker
at Aurangabad, named N aimidas, built
a handsome stone porch over this
nourn 19.—s1xAnnAniis.in mo fi1.1'm.\.—1':1.1'mA.

95
figure about 140 years ago, and caused
a long inscription to be out in front of
the seat. '1his image is an object of
worship to the Gujar Baniyas, and
there IS an annual pilgrimage to it on
the 14th of the light half of the month
Bhadra. A similar figure, in the desert
of Parker in Kachh, is described by
Ca tain McMurdo. Trans. Lit. Society
of ombay, vol. 1, p. 190.
The next caves are the three called
Indra Sab/ta’, “Court of Indra,” form-
ing in all a square of 60 ft., the W. face
being open, the other three supported
by pillars elaborately carved. These
eaves are two stories high, but the
lower stor is destroyed by damp, and
partially filled up b the earth that has
T e first of these is
61 ft. by 48 ft. The ceiling is flat,
and supported by 16 pillars and 12
pilasters. Its height varies from 13 ft.
8 in. to 14 ft. 6 in. There is a reccss
from this room in which is a fi ure of
Budh, in the usual sitting attitu e, with
a triple eanopg. This image is called
J agannath Bu h. In the centre of this
recess are three circles, cut in the floor
at equal distances. Indra Sabha has
its name from two figures, one of Indra
seated on an elephant, and in that atti-
tude 7 ft. high and 4 ft. 3 in. across
the shoulders, and one of Ind.ra’s wife.
A tree, probably the Kalpa V_riI:._sh,
supposed to grant all wishes, ows out
of the head of the deit . In réni, the
wife of Indra, is seate on a lion, and
has also a tree g-rowin from her head.
She holds a child in er arms. The
room is exquisitely carved, even the
floor being covered with ornaments.
All round in compartments are figures,
seated or standing, which, accordin to
some, represent Budh. It is possi le,
however, that these are images of the
supreme Deity, or Bhagwan; otherwise
the introduction of Buddhist or Brah-
manical figures into the same tem leis
inexplieab e. The second cave, o the
three which compose Indra Sabha, is
entered b a narrow passage from the
first, which it resembles as regards its
sculpture. There is here a figure simi-
lar to that above-mentioned, of Paras-
nath, but it is here called Parshurarn.
been washed in.


96
Sect. II.
noun: 19.—srxANn.ui.inin 1:0 1':r.i'Ins——iiLiin.s.
In two compartments, Bhavani, the
wife of Vishnu, of whom Parshuram
was an Avatara, is re resented, in one
holding a mirror an flowers, in the
other with a tiger by her side. Either,
then, the figure of Parasnath, at the N.
extremity of the excavation is modern,
or it should be called Parshuram, but
probably to flatter the J ains from Guja-
rat, the brahmans have conceded to it
the name of a Jain deity. If this con-
jecture be correct, thew eel is perhaps
the ohakra, or discus, with which Par-
shuram cut oil‘ the 1000 arms of Sahas-
rarjun. The third cave is entered from
the second, and is 685 ft. by 665 ft.,
and 15 ft. high. It is supported by
16 pillars and 20 pilasteis. There is
a cross-legged sitting figure, which
Colonel Sykes thinks to be Budh, but
the brahmans call it Rancher, a name
of Krishna. The doorway to the
sanctuary is highly decorated with
small figures of men and women, in
attendance on similar sitting figures.
These are said by the brahmans to be
the inhabitants of Dwarka, the city
where Krishna reigned, which is ano-
ther and stronger argument for sup-
posing these seated figures, which
Colonel S kes calls Budh, to be the
Supreme city, of whom Krishna was
the seventh, and most special, incar-
nation. In the extremities of the front
verandah to this cave, are the figures of
Indra and Indrani above described.
The front of the Parshui-am cave is
divided into two compartments, in one
of which is the representation of a
battle. Colonel Sykes very properly
remarks, “that this is a ve unusual
iece of sculpture for a Bu h cave.”
t may rather be taken as a convincing
proof that these are not Budh caves
at all.
About 50 paces from Indra Sabha,
is a cave now choked up with earth,
which rises three-quarters of the way
up the pillars. Some distance further
is a temple, in the midst of a large
area cut out from the rock, but the rains
have.washcd the earth into it up to
the capitals of the pillars, a process
which it must have taken ages to com-
plete thus far.

The Dim/mar Lena‘, or “Nuptial
Palace,” according to Colonel Sykes,
or Dumal Lena’, for D12 Mahall, “ two-
mansion cave," according to a very
recent traveller, is the next in order,
distant about 200 yards from the last,
and so called from a group which is
said to represent the marriage of Shiva
and Parvati. This is the most exten-
sive excavation under one roof to be
found at E'liira, being 185 ft. by 150 ft.,
and 19 ft. high. There are 28 pillars
and 20 pilasters. On the left of the
W'. entrance is a gi antic eight-armed
figure of Shiva, as irabhadra. With
one arm he raises on a sword the head
of Gajasur, “the elephant dzemon;”
with another he transfixes Ratnasur,
“gem daemon,” with a spear; another
arm holds the cobra; another a cup;
another Raja Dakslia; and two arms
appear to support the building. The
central colonnade leads to the sanctuary,
a square room containing the Lin am.
It hgsdfogir doors each of whic is
ar e y two colossal Dw als,
Illft. 8 in. high. In the S.E.éc1iiiner
of the Propylaeum, is a roup of Shiva
and Parvati as principa s, with Vishnu
on Garuda, and Brahma on his goose,
as subordinates, and the skeleton figure
of an ascetic which is usually found
near Shiva. In the N.E. corner is a
figure, said by Colonel Sykes to repre-
sent Jum Dhurma, or to write the
words more roperly, Yama the Rhada-
manthus of t e Hindiis, otherwise called
Dharma. He sits on a strange thing,
resembling a rake with the teeth ulled
out, supported b two nude emale
figures. He has t e Brahmanical cord,
necklace, earrings, bracelets, and. a
tiara. In his left hand he holds what
is perhaps a club. His ri ht hand is
held up, with the thum and two
fingers extended, the other two fingers
bent down. Close to the Dhumar
Lena, on the S., the rock has a per-
pendicular scarp of about 100 feet, over
which falls a stream, and forms a beau-
tiful cascade. Ascending the hill here,
and following the bank of the stream
for about half a mile, the traveller
comes to the cave of Devi on the right
bank. The excavation is small, and


Madras.
97
RouTE 19.—SIKANDARKBAD. To ÉLURA—ÉLöRA.
has no beauty to boast of; the only
figure being the mis-shapen, unfinished
image of the goddess Devi. There is,
however, a yearly Jätra, or pilgrimage
to the spot, and the fame of the miracles
of this Deity is great. Consequently,
steps have been cut down from the cave
to the water, and pools have been dug
in the bed of the stream, and among
these the water dashes and whirls in a
most picturesque manner.
Returning down the stream, several
small caves are passed on both banks,
each a cube of about 7 ft. In the centre
is the Lingam : the right and left walls
are devoid of sculpture, but the wall
fronting the entrance has the bust of the
celebrated Triad represented at Ele-
phanta. The Elephanta bust being mu-
tilated, it becomes possible to restore it
from these designs, which are quite in-
tact. The centre figure has a placid
face; with one arm it holds the mald or
rosary, with the other a cocoa nut. On
both arms above the elbow there is a
twisted ornament, intended probably to
represent a snake. In the cap is the
crescent moon attached by a braid. On
the left side of the cap is a skull. The
Jánwá or Brähmanical cord, unlike
that of the present day, is as thick as a
rope. The right hand face of the triad
has an impression of fury; the eyes
starting, the mouth open, and the brow
and cheeks corrugated. The right hand
holds a dish, which may refer to Shiva's
drinking the poison which was produced
when the £ and Asurs churned the
ocean, or it may be the vessel in which
Shiva caught the blood of Ratnāsur,
every drop of which on touching the
earth produced a new daemon. In this
dish Colonel Sykes supposes rosin was
Placed and £ to represent the God
reathing fire, a characteristic of Shiva.
The left hand holds the Nag or cobra.
The left face is smaller and more femi-
nine. The head-dress consists of the
Nag, the head of the snake forming the
top-knot. Both arms have #: joined
by a longitudinal bar, and like those
worn by the women of Gujarat, which
thus establishes the female sex of the
figure. The right hand holds a mirror,
the left a pencil or brush for applying
collyrium to the eyelids. The bust is
indubitably intended to represent Shiva,
—in the centre face, in his ordinary cha-
racter; and, in the other two faces, in
his quality of Arddha-nārisha, half male,
half female.
Returning to the Dhumar Lend and
crossing the stream, two caves called the
Janwdsd are reached. The word Jan-
wdsd signifies the pavilion assigned by
the father of the bride to the bridegroom,
when he comes to marry his betrothed.
There is nothing remarkable in these
caves. The first has Wishnu in the Boar-
incarnation, and three figures of Brahmā,
Wishnu, and Shiva; the second has a
few sculptures of Sevakas or attendants.
Over the most N. of the two a stream
falls, and forms a beautiful cascade.
A little to the S. is the cave called the
Kumhdr Wara, “the potter's place.”
This cave is sacred to £ and Col.
Sykes finds nothing to explain the ap-
pellation it has received. It may be
either that earthenware vessels, so much
used by the Hindas in their culinary and
devotional operations, were really made
here for the use of the priests and their
followers. Or there may be a reference
to Shálivahan, who is said to have been
a potter, and to have made figures of
men, horses, and elephants, into which he
infused life, so that he thus raised a
large army, and became master of Hin-
dūstān.
The Tailíkd Ghand, “Oilman's Mill,”
comes next. A hole sunk in the floor,
resembling the mill used by oilmen, has,
doubtless, caused the cave to be so de-
signated; but this hole is exactly similar
to one in Rävan ki Khai, which is there
said to mark the place of sacrifice. The
Taili kā Ghaná is sacred to Shiva.
Ascending the hill there are three small
caves called Nil Kanth, “Blue throat,”
a name given to Shiva from his drinking
the poison produced by the churning of
the ocean, and which stained his neck
blue. These caves have no sculptures,
but each has a Lingam, and in one of
them the Lingam has a blue stain,
whence probably the name given to the
caves. This Lingam is a nicely polished
stone of a nature different from that of
the rock where the cave is formed. The


98
Sect. II.
! I I I I I
ROUTE 19.-—BIKANDA.RABAD TO ELUBA--ELUBA.
brahmans send on a man to throw water
over it, and then show the traveller his
face reflected, for which he is expected
to pay.
A little to the S. is Rdmeahwar,
“ The Lord of Rama,” i.c. the Lingam,
considerabl below the level of Nil
Kanth. he name is borrowed frphm
a ou su osed to re resent e
1I1D.lg1'lfl got‘ Iggma and Sitar.) This cave
is 90 t. by 26 ft. 6 in., and is highly
elaborated: a recess, in which is the
Lingam, is not included in the measure-
ment. In the first compartment on the
lefi; of the entrance is Ku'rlilc Swdmi,
the god of war, with a goose at his
feet. On his right is Rajh Daksha,
the father of Parvati, with a ram's
head, his own having been cnt off by
Mahiidev, on which Virabhadra sup-
plied him with that of a ram. The N.
wall is entirely covered with figures, the
centre group being supposed to represent
the nuptials of Rama and Site; Sir C.
Malet calls it the marria e of Rsja
Janaka, Sita’s father. C»oTonel Sykes
is inclined to think it is the mama e
of Shiva and Parvati, as the chief ma e
figure has three eyes, a characteristic
of Shiva, and as, in adjoining com‘part-
ments, various conflicts of that Go are
portrayed, and his gana, or retinue, fill
a narrow slip which extends the whole
length of the wall, at the feet of the
plrinci al figures. Seven figures at the
.en of the N. wall are remarkable
as having their heads shaven up the
middle, leaving a sort of crescent above
the ears. This is a tonsure quite dis-
similar to that of the Hindus. In the
first compartment on the right of the
Lingam, is Bhavani, as she ap eared
when she slew Jllizlies-hdsur, “the ufl'alo
dzcmon,” in honor of which event the
Dasahra was instituted. In the second
compartment, on the right of the Lin-
gam, Ravana, with ten heads and nume-
rous arms, is liftin Kailas with Shiva
and Parvati upon it, and endeavouring
to remove it. An ass’s head peeping
out from among his other ten is, per-
haps. intended to convey a sneer at
the futility of his efforts. In the first
compartment on the left of the Lingam,
Shiva and Parvati are playing at chau-
8417', the Hindu dice. The shake of
Parvatfs hand, with ext/ended thumb
and fingers, indicates unsuccess or
denial. Sliiva's face is calm, and he
is about to throw with his inner right
hand. The gana below are playin
p;-anks—one bites the tail of the bufi
andi, another seizes his leg, another
holds a fellow attendant on his back by
the heels. Two other compartments
on the loft show Bhairava preparin to
kill the daemon Siwésur Sonasur, w ich
he did at the villa e of Sonéiri, near
Karwalla, in the D an. The S. wall
exhibits seven females seated on a
bench, each with a child in her arms.
At one end is Ganesh, at the other Bhai-
rava. These figures are called the Nau
Ratri, “nine nights ;" the seven fe-
males, representin the seven principal
oddesses, are m ti lications of Devi.
nderneath each go dess is the Wahan,
or vehicle of her husband. The group
are supposed to be engaged in a Mm,
or sacrifice. These nine deities are
worshipped on the nine nights preceding
the Dasahra. In a compartment on
the right of the entrance, at an angle
with the S. wall, are three skeleton
figures, and another on a level with
them. A fifth fi e stands in the air.
These are suppose to represent the niiser
and his family with a thief stealing his
money. The supposed thief is flying in
the air with a purse or bag for betel
in his hand. The rincipal skeleton is
armed with a croo ed knife, while the
others clin round his knees. As this
group is on y found near the N an Ratri
in this cave, in Kailiis and in Ravan kt
Kliai, it perhaps represents the purchase
of a mortal for the sacrifice, mwhich
case the figure in the air is a minor
deity sent with the mone ', or the
figures may be Rakshasas, or evils, who
gorge themselves with the blood of
victims. The pillars which support
Rameshwar cave are singularly ele ant.
Ascending the hill from Riimes war
three small caves are reached imme-
diately above Kailas. They are seldom
sliewn to visitors. Each has a Lingam,
and over the door of the first, Lakshmi
is sculptured with elephants pourin
water over her. The second and third


Madras.
99
RouTE 19.—SIKANDARKBAD TO ÉLURA—ÉLURA.
have each a bust of the triad, behind
the Lingam.
The next cave is Kailds, or “Mahá-
deva's heaven,” a work which competent
judges have pronounced to be second
only to the pyramids in grandeur. To
give a sufficient idea of the magnificence
of this edifice, which surpasses all others
at E'lúra, it will be requisite in the first
place, to mention the measurements of
the work in the gross. The excavation
has been carried back into the rock to
the depth of 401 feet, measuring from
the foot of the hill to the back of the E.
colonnade, but from the wall across the
area, in which is the doorway, it is only
323 feet. The extreme breadth is 185
feet, corresponding to the length of the
E. colonnade, which runs due N. and S.
Within this area stands a conical pagoda
100 feet high, with a noble portico,
above which is a music gallery, five large
chapels surrounding the adytum, and a
£ court bordered by three magni-
cent colonnades. On either side of the
base of the portico are three elephants
facing outwards. Gigantic columns sup-
port the naubatkhanah, or music gallery,
and immediately opposite to the entrance
is a figure of Lakshmi, the wife of Vishnu,
in a sitting attitude, with two elephants
by her side, and two standing on their
hind legs and pouring water from
vessels grasped in their trunks, over the
Deity. In the outer wall of the portico
are niches, with gigantic figures of door-
keepers.
On reaching the figure of Lakshmi,
the e opens to the right and
left into the area. Facing these open-
ings are two stone elephants of the
size of life, more or less mutilated.
About 30 feet beyond them are two
obelisks most beautifully carved, 41 feet
high and 11 feet square. Between these
obelisks is the chapel of Nandi, with the
figure of the bull, which is not large,
and rather disfigured. About 30 feet
further is the great pagoda, which is
covered with sculptured figures from the
summit to the base, both within and
without. The hall of this pagoda is
66 ft. 4 in. by 55 ft. 8 in., and varies in
height from 16 ft, 6% in to 17 ft. 10 in,
It is supported by 16 pillars and 22
pilasters. The pillars run in right lines,
but are discontinued in the middle of the
hall, leaving an open space. There are
five entrances to the hall, three from the
W., N., and S., 12 ft. high by 6 ft. broad,
respectively, with sculptured Dwarpals,
and two from the E.
On the side nearest the portico are
two flights of stairs, one at each corner,
for ascending to the top. In the centre
of the ceiling, according to Col. Sykes,
Lakshmi Nārāyana is sculptured, but
as Lakshmi is the name of the god-
dess, the wife of Nārāyana or Vishnu,
there seems to be some inaccuracy in the
account here. The adytum, in which is
the Lingam, opens out of the great hall
of the pagoda. The pillars in the great
hall are in four rows, and not above four
of them are of the same workmanship.
The shafts are elaborately carved, but
the capitals are quite plain, and the
roof between them is carved so as to re-
present great beams, crossing and rest-
ing on the capitals of the pillars. The
pillars themselves are of a vast and dis-
£ circumference, and this,
and the dimness of the light, which
renders vision very indistinct at first,
combined with the £ of the ceiling,
give the idea of an immense and crush-
ing weight being superincumbent, so
that there is a disposition on entering to
crouch down. On each side of the centre
of the great hall are porticoes, their roof
supported ' pillars resting on elephants.
In the N. face of the basement of the
portico, the exploits of the Pandus are
sculptured. Bhimah and Arjuna appear
fighting in chariots. On the S. face of
the basement the wars of Rāma are re-
presented, and Hanumán is seen sitting
on his tail, which bears him up higher
than Rāvana on his throne in Lanká.
At the back of the adytum is a balcony
or open gallery, and beyond, the five
chapels all sculptured in the same
manner. The outside walls are carved
in panels with grotesque and obscene
figures, and all these edifices are sup-
ported on elephants and tigers placed
alternately. Between the scarp of the
rock, and the temple is an open space,
varying from 22 ft. to 36 ft. In the N.,
E., and S. scarps are colonnades, consist-


100 RoUTE 19.—sIKANDARABAD
To ÉLüRA-ÉLURA.
Sect. II.
ing of a single row of pillars in front,
with corresponding pilasters at the back,
and, between the pilasters, figures of
Shiva or Vishnu.
The N. Colonnade has 15 pillars and
15 pilasters. The sculptures begin be-
tween the third and fourth pilaster. At
the third pillar a partition wall with a
doorway crosses the colonnade. Mea-
suring through the doorway the length
is 175 ft.; the breadth, including thick-
ness of pillars in front, 11 ft. 2 in. ; the
height from 14 ft. 8 in. to 15 ft. The
first design on the left is Rāvana cutting
off with a sword his tenth head in honour
of the Lingam, while nine heads which
he has already severed are seen garnish-
ing that emblem. Shiva, gratified by
this devotion, promises Rāvana a boon,
and he asks for universal dominion, im-
mortality, the Lingam and Pârvati. In
another place he is seen carrying off his
ifts, while Wishnu, in the form of a
rahman, meets him, and recovers by a
stratagem the too precious rewards. The
next compartment represents Pârvati
£ by Rāvana endeavouring to
recover her lost purity by worshippin
the Lingam. The next shews Shiva an
Pârvati in Kailās. The god turns his
back on his wife in consequence of her
pollution by Rāvana. Kartikeya, son of
Shiva, follows, and then Pârvati listen-
ing to a male figure reading sacred books
as part of her purification. After this
comes the Rishi Muchkund, who is per-
haps the figure reading in the preceding
design. In the next, Pârvatí has her arm
entwined in Shiva's, who appears to be
exhorting her. In the next, Shiva and
Pârvati appear reconciled, the god throw-
ing his arm over his wife's shoulder. In
the next Shiva and Pârvati are seated,
and he appears to be interrogating her
with £ forefinger. She is shaking
her hand, with the fingers open, in token
of denial, as is the wont of Hindú women
at the present day. In the next, Shiva
stands erect with the cobra in his left
hand. In the twelfth compartment a
brahman is worshipping the Lingam and
is surprised by a £ who, having
slipped a chain round his neck, is at-
tempting to : him; but Mahādeva,
issuing from the Lingam, rests one foot
upon it, and with the other kicks the
assassin, at the same time transfixing
him with his trident.
The E. Colonnade has 18 pillars, 20
pilasters, and 19 compartments. It is
185 ft. long, 13 ft. 1 in broad, and 14ft.
10 in. to 15 ft. high. In the first com-
partment Shiva and Pârvati are stand-
ing. He lays his hand upon one of hers,
and is supposed to be promising that no
penance of his votaries shall make him
part with her again. Brahmā seated is
witness of the pledge. In the next Shiva
appears as Vírabhadra. With one arm
he holds Ratnāsur on a spear, while an-
other grasps a dish to receive the blood-
of the daemon, for every drop, if it
reached the earth, produced fresh daemons
like himself. In the next, Sadáshiva
with six arms stands in a car drawn b
four horses. He is said to have £
the four Vedas into steeds, seized the
chariot of the sun, and with Brahmá as
his charioteer, rushed to the attack of the
daemon Tripurasur. Shiva and Pârvati
appear next, seated. Next comes a four-
armed figure, called by some Kártikeya,
but thought by Colonel Sykes to be
Vishnu. This is followed by Vishnu in
the Narasingh Avatar. With the 7th
compartment begins the series called the
Bandíkhánah or “prison,” the gods
being shewn as the captives of Ravan;
in this Brahmā is chained. In the 8th
compartment Shiva is in like plight; in
the 9th, Wishnu; in the 10th, Shiva
stands holding the cobra, unchained;
in the 11th, Brahmā is seen with three
faces; in the 12th, a figure called
Mahadev. From the 13th to the 19th
compartment the eight Bhairavas, or
manifestations of Shiva in his terrific
character, are delineated. 1st, Bhairava;
2nd, Bhūpāl Bhairava; 3rd, Baltuk
Bhairava, with a trident in the left
hand; 4th, Siddhiyogni Bhairava, with
the same; 5th, Nauyogni Bhairava, with
the trident in the right hand, the left
resting on the head of a female; 6th,
Kapal Bhairava; 7th, wanting; 8th,
Kál Bhairava.
The S. Colonnade has ten perfect
£ and three others broken by a
all of the rock, and twelve compart-
ments. It is 115ft. long. In the 1st


Madras.
101
RouTE 19.—SIKANDARABAD To ÉLöRA—ÉLURA.
compartment is Shiva as Arddh-Nári,
or “Half-Female;” in the 2nd he
appears in his usual form. Next comes
a four-faced, four-armed figure, called
Brahmā by the brahman guide of Colonel
£ but thought by him to be Wishnu.
ishnu in the Narasingh Avatar comes
next. In the 5th compartment, She-
shaya Bhagavān, that is Nārāyana, is re-
presented on the eternal serpent Ananta,
whose seven heads canopy the god. From
Nárāyana's navel springs the lotus on
which Brahmā is seated. In the 6th
compartment Krishna is shown attend-
ing the herds in Braj; the cattle are
well represented. In the 7th, Wishnu
appears in the Bdman or Dwarf Avatar.
Bali offers him an urn of pearls, which
he refuses, and demands three strides of
land, which Bali promises on his life.
Vishnu is then shown in his proper
form, making a monstrous stride. Ac-
cording to the legend, he fixed one foot
on earth and one on heaven, and with a
third thrust Bali down to Pátál, or
hell. In the 8th compartment, Vishnu
is seen mounted on Garuda; in the 9th,
in the Varāha, or Boar Avatar, holding
up the earth on his tusks; in the 10th,
as Krishna, he holds the great serpent
Kálf by the tail, and tramples on its
body; in the 11th, he is Balaji, who
slew Indrajit, the son of Rāvan. The
last compartment exhibits Anna Pūrnā,
an Avatar of Pârvati. The rear right
hand holds the Ját Málá; the front
right hand, a lotus inverted; the rear left
hand holds something like a horn; the
front left hand is open with the finger
downwards. Anna Púrnå is the Ceres
of Eastern mythology, and not impro-
bably the Anna Perenna of the old
Romans. These compartments are from
8 ft. to 9 ft. high, and from 4 ft. to 5 ft.
broad. Further down the S. scarp to-
wards the gateway, in a long narrow
cave, are the Nau Rātri, already de-
scribed. Close by is an arched excava-
tion, with a ribbed roof and pillars,
which, from the presence of the Lingam,
is evidently a Brahmanical work, and
shows that arched excavations are not
exclusively Buddhist, as some have
thought.
In the scarp above the N. Colonnade
of Kailās is Lanka, a cave sacred to
Shiva. It is 106 ft. long and 72 ft.
broad. The ceiling is flat, and sup-
ported by 32 richly carved pillars and 8
pilasters. In a large central compart-
ment, Brahmā, Vishnu, and Shiva stand
side by side; in others, Vishnu and
Shiva are represented in various Ava-
tars. In the scarp above the S. Colon-
nade of Kailās is the cave called the
Pir Lanká, the communication with
which from Kailās was by a bridge of
rock, which has fallen down.
Before the entrance to Kailās is a
Muhammadan building, a square room
with a cupola. A few paces S. of it is a
large terrace, raised 5 ft. or 6 ft. with a
Pipal tree growing out of it. The
brāhmans say that Aurangzíb was
£ by the gods with the loss of
is wife, for desecrating these caves and
blackening them with fire, and to appease
the divine wrath he built the room.
They add that his son died next, and
that he then built the terrace; and that
his favourite horse then dying, he built
up the doorway into the temple, which
was once vast, but has been built up
into a common-sized modern door.
Ascending the hill a few steps S. of
Kailās, the cave of the Das Avatar,
“Ten Incarnations,” is reached. This
cave has two stories, but in the lower
there are no sculptures. Those in the
upper cave, which is 102 ft. long by
98 ft. broad, and from 11 ft. 4 in. to
12 ft. high, are in such high relief as to
be almost statues. The #: are all
in recesses round three sides of the cave,
the fourth being open to the light. The
following is a list of the personages re-
presented, each, or each pair, occupying
a separate recess:—Wirabhadra; Shiva;
Shiva and Pârvatí; Shiva and Pârvati,
his hand placed over her shoulder; Rāvan
crushed in lifting Kailās; Shiva issuing
from the Lingam; Shiva and Pârvati,
with five human heads at their feet; a
gigantic Ganesh; Sítá holding the sitd
phal, elephants pouring water over her;
Kártikeya; Vishnu in the Narasingh
Avatar; Shiva in his chariot, having
shot the arrow which slew Tripurásur;
Wishnu; Vishnu on Garuda; Sheshaya
Nārāyan, with the lotus growing from


102
* *
Route 19.—sIKANDARABAD To ÉLURA-ÉLüRA. Sect. II.
his navel, and Brahmā seated on it; the
Varāha Avatar; the Báman Avatar;
the Narasingh Avatar. There are 48
pillars, each 3 ft. 2 in. square, and 22
pilasters in the upper cave of Das
Avatar.
Ravan ki khai, “Rávan's ditch,”
comes next, and is small but highly
finished. The first figure on the left of
the entrance is Bhāgeshwari Bhavani;
second, Lakshmi bathed by elephants;
third, the Varāha Avatar; then Shiva,
Gangá, and Gauri; Shiva and Pârvati
with gana, and along the N. wall the
Nau Rátri. On the right of the en-
trance is Devi slaying the Maheshasur;
second, Shiva, Pârvati, and Ganesh;
third, Shiva girded with the Ndg; fourth,
Ravan shaking Kailās; fifth, Virabhadra.
The next cave, Tin Thal or Tin Lók,
(“Three stories,” or “Three worlds”),
is said by Col. Sykes to be a Buddhist
cave. The lower story, or Pátál, is
115 ft. long by 41 ft. 6 in. : and
but 11 ft. 8 in high. There is here a
large figure of Ananta, and two £
figures of Angari and Adináth, whic
almost touch the ceiling. Here, too, are
cisterns containing an abundant supply
of very fine water. The ascent to the
second story is by 24 fine stairs. Half
way is a recess 25 ft. by 20 ft. 6 in., with
a gigantic figure of Kuvera. The second
story consists of a large room 114 ft. by
82 ft. 6 in., and 12 ft. 4 in. high. At
each end of this room are four small
apartments and a recess 16 ft. deep, with
a colossal figure of Lakshman, half bro-
ther of Rāma. Other 24 stairs lead to
the upper story, which, with regard to
the variety of rich sculpture, its massive
pillars, the polish of the stone and its
state of preservation, is perfect. It is
112 ft. 6 in. by 72 ft, and from 13 ft.
7 in. to 11 ft. 7 in high. It has 50
pillars and 14 pilasters. In the grand
recess is a gigantic figure seated, its legs
doubled up so as to show the soles. This
is called by the brahmans, Ram Chandra.
All round are females seated on the lotus.
The Dwarpals are represented with their
arms folded and without weapons. The
only figure on horseback, amongst thou-
sands of figures sculptured at E'lúra, is
found on the staircase of Tín Lók. On
the second pillar in the second row of the
centre cave is a modern inscription in
characters resembling the Nāgari, but
which no one can decipher.
South of Tin Lók is the cave called
Dukhiya Ghar, “House of Pain,” from
a figure said by the brahmans to be
Vishwakarma, the architect of the gods,
who having finished Tín Lók, com-
menced this cave, intending it to sur-
pass all his former efforts, but cutting
his finger, he was compelled to stop
short. Colonel Sykes thinks the figure
to be Buddh, in one of the four medita-
tive attitudes.
The next cave is Vishwakarma, and
is called by Europeans “The Carpenter's
Cave.” It is the only grand arched
temple at E'lúra. It is 80 ft. by 42 ft.
6 in., and 35 ft. high. The extreme
depth of the excavation is 156 ft. There
are 28 octangular pillars in two rows,
and two pillars supporting a galle
over the doorway. The front of this
cave is magnificently carved, principally
with figures of men and women in pairs.
The last caves are the Dher Wara,
or “Outcast's Quarter.” A stream,
the water of which falls over the front
of one of these, divides them from the
Vishwakarma. On the walls are fre-
quent groups of the Nau Graha, or
“Nine Planets,” represented by nine
figures seated in a square. All these
caves were once chunamed and painted.
According to the brahmans, this was
done long after the original construction
of the caves (for which they go back
to a period beyond computation), by
Rājā Elu, who is said to have lived 4750
years ago. The rock in which the caves
are, varies in its nature considerably.
Black and grey basalt is most abundant.
Narrow veins of quartz frequently in-
tersect the sculptures; and the hill is
strewed with fragments of quartz and
other silicious stones.
FROM JALNA To AJAYANTí
(AJUNTA), 55 M.
MILITARY AUTHORITY-Officer com-
manding Haidarābād Subsidiary Force
—Sikandardbad.
CIVIL AUTHORITY – Resident at
Haidardbad.


-mm-
Madras.
PLACES. STAGES.
M. F. M. F.
From Kádirābād to Jalna
Péta begins..... • * * * * * * * * * * *
Ditto ends..... •
Tank........
> *------------
x Kandula r.........
x n. to Pipalgaon..
Măng Dewalgaon...
PANGRI .......
Wärí.............. • •
2 n. to Longáon .
Pipalgaon ........ • * * *
Palaskerah ...
12 2
X *... .........
Bará Nalní.
13 4
Bâranjalla............ • * * *
Kodali..........................
(a) x Khelná r. (Assye is
close to this river).........
Babúlgäon..............
x n. to BAIRI ..
Kahrah............ •
Daghāwārí.
# - - - - -
Wākrí.......
x Jewai r.
Kokri.......
ANWA...
Kodah....
An ascent.. -
Descent..........................
x Wågar r. to Diggres...... 0
X *... ..... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . • - - - 1
Rajni .......................... 2
(b) x Wagúr r. to AJA-
YANTI, begins........ .... 0 5
10 1
:
|
9 1
RouTE 19.—sIKANDARABAD To ÉLURA—AssyE.
103
55 0
(a) Assye.—The three first stations
are small hamlets. At the Khelná
river, before reaching Bairi, is the
village of Assye, the scene of General
Wellesley's world-famous victory.
On the 23rd Sept., 1803, Wellesley,
on reaching the village of Nalni, where
he was about to encamp, learnt from
his scouts that the armies of Daulat Rao
Sindhia and Raghuji Bhonslah, Rājā
of Nagpur, were encamped on the
Khelná river within 6 m. of him. The
English general had, at a council held
with Colonel Stephenson at Badnapur
on the 21st, agreed that the forces under
their respective commands should move
separately, and attack the enemy on the
morning of the 24th. Now, however,
being apprehensive that the Marathas
would decamp if allowed a respite, he
with great sagacity and decision resolved
to attack them. He had with him
about 4500 men, consisting of the 19th
Light Dragoons, the 4th, 5th, and 7th
Madras cavalry, detachments of Madras
and Bombay artillery, the 74th and
78th Highlanders, a battalion of the
2nd, 4th, 8th, and 10th regiments of
Madras N.I., and two battalions of the
12th. With these he prepared to en-
counter the Marāthas, of whom 10,500
were regular infantry, trained by De
Boigne, supported by 100 guns, and
who had besides 30,000 horse, and irre-
gular infantry as numerous as their
regulars. On ascending a rising ground
to reconnoitre, the English general per-
ceived this vast host extending in a
line along the opposite bank of the
Khelná river, near its junction with the
Jewah. Their right consisted entirely
of cavalry, and their left, formed of
infantry and guns, rested on Assye.
The English passed the Khelná at a
ford beyond the enemy's left flank, and
then formed, the infantry in two lines,
and the cavalry, as a reserve, in a third
line, the left wing being towards the
Khelná, and the right towards the
Jewah. The enemy changed position
as the British turned their flank, and
formed in two lines, one fronting the
British, and the other at right angles
to the first line, but the left of both
resting on the fortified village of Assye.
The Marathas, as the British were
forming, opened a heavy cannonade,
which did terrible execution. The in-
fantry piquets and the 74th suffered in
particular, and when the officer com-
manding the piquets was told to advance,
he replied that the guns were disabled
and the bullocks killed, to which
message the English general simply
answered: “Tell £ to get on without
them.”
While the 74th were suffering in this
manner, a powerful body of Maratha


104
Sect. II.
noora l9.—szxAnnsninin ro *éI.1’ms—uArAnri.
horse advanced to charge them, but were
themselves met by the 19th Dragoons
and the 4th Madras cava , who, ass-
ing through the broken ranks o the
7-4th, overthrew the Maratha horse, and
rushed upon the infantry and guns be-
yond them. At the same time the English
ine advanced with the bayonet and
completed the victory. Some loss was
occasioned b the enemy's artillerymen
feigning to be dead; and, after the
British battalions had passed, risin and
pouring in a. fire in their rear. ight
of the old battalions of De Boigne, too,
shewed much firmness, and re-formed
after they had been deserted by their
own cavalry. It was in chargin one
of these battalions that Colonel ax-
well, who commanded the English
cavalry brigade, was killed. The
English loss in killed and wounded
amounted to 1566 men, more than one-
third of the whole force engaged, for
the horse belonging to the Peshwa and
the Raja of Maisfir, which accompanied
General Wellesley, were formed at a
distance across the Khelna, and had
little or no share in the action. The
Marathas had 98 ns taken from
them, and their killed amounted to 1200,
hile the whole neighborhood was
filled with their wounded. Yadu R-ao
Bhaskar, Sindhia’s minister, was among
the slain, and his prince and the Nag-
pur Riia ignominiously fled soon after
the batt e began. On the English side
the cavalry particularly distin ished
themselves, and, as cases of in ividual
heroism, those of Lieutenant Nathan
VVilson and Sergeant Stran e deserve
record. Mr. Wilson continue tocharge
at the head of his troop after his arm
had been shattered by a grape shot, and
hung dangling at his side; and Strange
rode out the da after he had been
speared through t e lungs.
Anwab is a considerable village. The
road is good all the way to Ajayanti,
though in some arts stony.
(b) Ajayanti Ajunta) is avillage with
about 300 houses and 5 shops. The word
signifies "unconquerable,” from Skr. a.
“ not," jay “to conquer.” The caves
are 6 m. to the N., 111 the face of the
Ghat. As tigers and other beasts of
prey are very numerous, it will be re-
quisite for the traveller to go well
armed. At the time of Lieutenant Alex-
ander’s visit in 1824, there was some
da er from the savage Bhils who in-
habit this wild region, but at present
there is no cause of apprehension on
that score. There is a well built cara-
vansera in the vill e or town of
A'ayanti, which stan near the top
oi] the Pass of the same name.
The road to the to of the Ghét is
stony, and in the jun e on either side
cairns may be remarke the bushes round
which are covered with rags, showing
the spots where unfortunate travellers
have perished b tigers. On reaching
the summit of t e Ghat, a magnificent
scene displa s itself. The vale of Khan-
desh exten at the foot of the Pass,
stretchin far into the blue distance,
and enc osed by wooded mountains.
Lakes and streams intersecting it in
every direction, diversify its surface;
and here and there the pointed top of
the Hindu pagoda, or the white cupola
of a mos ue, gleam from among the
trees. e traveller must here dis-
mount, and lead his horse down a pre-
cipitous pathway to the left of the
Pass, when he will find himself in a
glen filled with the sweet-smelling
ELM-Q08 grass. At the débouche of
this glen there is a mountain stream,
along the banks of which lies the path-
wa to the caves, leading through low
nnderwood,_interspersed with trees and
water- ass 15 ft. high. On one occa-
sion t roe tigers were killed in this
spot. The defile through which the
caves are reached is remarkable for its
beauty, winding among hills 500 ft.
high, on which grow the nim, pzjpa-Z,
mahwd, babizl, and other trees. The
scenery far surpasses that of the hills
in which the E'l\'1ra eaves are situated.
The eaves here are excavated in hori-
zontal strata of greywacke, with im-
bedded portions of quartz, approachin
chalcedony. Blood-stones, m whie
the ortions of jasper are larger than
usuai: may be picked up in a water-
worn state, in the bed of the stream.
Indurated fels ar is also in abundance.
On reaching t e extremity of the defile,


_~
Jfad/ras.
the traveller comes to what is called the
nit kimul, or “seven falls,” being a
cascade of which the lowest fall is about
100 ft. high, the others together about
100 ft. more. Immediatel below the
fall, the ravine makes a su den turn to
the right, and it is in the per endieular
cliff, forming the outer si e of the
bend, and facing the ravine, that the
eaves are situated. The whole series
extends about 500 yards from N. to S.E.
The most ancient are those about 150
yards from the N. end, and lowest down
in the rock, being not above 30 or 40
ft. from the bed of the torrent. From
this point they gradually rise to the
S. extremity, where they are from 100
to 150 ft. from the bottom of the glen,
and are uuapproachable, the athway on
the face of the rock, by whic they were
formerly accessible, having fallen. To
the N. also, the altitude at which the
caves have been dug increases to about
80 ft.
Mr. James Fergusson has pronounced
the Ajayanti caves to be “the most
perfect and complete series of Buddhist
caves in India, without any admix-
ture of brahmanism, and containing
type; of all the rest.” Following his
arrangement, the caves may be num-
bered from 1 to 27, the first being
the lowest down the stream, be 'nning
at the N. end, and 27 being t e last
accessible cave at the S.E. extremity.
All the 27 caves are Vihdmhs, or
monasteries, with cells and flat roofs,
except the 9th, 10th,. 19th, and 26th,
which are Ohaitya, or Daghopa vaulted
caves, without cells. The lowest down
and most ancient are the 12th and 11th,
of which the 12th is the plainest of the
series, having no pillars, sanctuary, or
an visible object of worship. The
only ornament consists in seven horse-
shoe canopies on each side, four over
the doors of the cells, the other three
merely ornamental. These canopies
are very similar to those at Katak
(Cuttack), and under them is a reeded
string course found only at Katak and
Karli. This cave is 36 ft. 7 in.
square. There is an inscription on the
inner wall, in a character slightly modi-
fied from that on the La'_ts, and written
nonrn 19.—siKA1~znsnin.§1> ro éLiins—A.uYANri.

105
plrobably early in the Christian era.
o. 11 is only 37 ft. 10 in. by 28 ft.
6 in. It resembles N0. 12, but has
four figures in the centre supporting
the roof, being probably one of the-
earliest instances of the introduction of
pillars for such a purpose. The sanc-
tua is unfinished. On the walls are
ante opes, lions, and a boy praying,
sculptured in the very best style of art,
and evidentl coeval with the Ganesha
Gumpha at atak. The walls have been
stuccoed and painted, but the paintings
are now scarcely distinguishable.
Nos. 10 and 9 are Davhopa caves, of
which l0 is 94 ft. 6 in. eep, and 41 ft.
6 in. wide, while 9 is only 45 ft. by 23 ft.
No. 10 has 29 pillars surrounding the
nave, of which 13 are fallen. The are
plain octagons without capital or ase,
and have been stuccocd and painted.
The roof is ribbed, the ribbing in the
aisles being of stone, and in the nave of
wood, though only now the fastening
pins and the footings for the ribs are
left. The Daghopa is plain and solid,
with onl the square capital or tau on
the top. r. Fergusson thinks it was once
richly ornamented in wood, and had three
umbrellas, as at Karli’. The whole of this
cave has been ainted, thoueh now only
some figures otp Buddha andliis disciples
are left. On the interior face of the
cave, and very high up, is an inscription
in the pure La’; character, which would
've an antiquity of from 200 to 100 B.C.
o. 9 has only 20 pillars surrounding
the nave, of which 8 are broken; but
there are four pillars at the entrance, of
a different shape and more rich in de-
tail. There are three inscriptions, pro-
babl of the second or third century A.D.
T e 8th cave is merely a natural
cavern devoid of interest.
No. 7 is a large verandah 63 ft. 4 in.
long and 13 ft. 7 in. broad, with cells at
the back like the Katak caves. Two
porches of two pillars each project from
the front line of the verandah, resem-
blinv those at Elephants and the Dhu-
mar ne, at E'1fira, and probably of the
same date. There is also a chapel with
two pillars at either end. To the left
of the sanctuary are five cross-le ged
figures seated on the lotus, with a otus


106
Sect. II.
- - - p , *
RouTE 19.—sIKANDARKBAD. To KLüRA-A1AYANTí.
between each pair; on the right are two
cross-legged and seven standing figures,
the centre lotus of each series "'
by figures with snake canopies. Within
the sanctuary, on each side, are two large
figures and one small, and two men sit-
ting cross-legged holding chäoris. On
the step are 16 cross-legged figures.
No. 6 is the only two-storied cave
here. In the upper story are 12 pillars,
octagons, with plain squares at top and
bottom, and bold bracket capitals, not
# but carved with figures of
uddha. This cave is 53 ft. square, and
the aisles are 9 ft. wide. The lower story
has 16 pillars, of which 9 are fallen.
From No. 5 to 1 are the most modern
caves, dating from the sixth to the tenth
century A.D. From 20 to 27 are also of
about the same date. No. 5 is choked
with mud. It is a square cave of no
great dimensions. No. 4 contains no-
thing of interest. No. 3 is a very fine
cave, one of the largest vihārahs of the
series. The colonnade in the centre
consists of the unique number of 28
pillars, the pillars being in 4 ranges of
8 pillars each, counting those at the
angle in each line. The pillars are bold
octagons, 11 ft. in circumference. The
hall is 91 ft. square; the aisles, 12 ft.
2 in. wide, which is also the width of
the verandah. The bats lodge here in
such numbers, and the acrid exhalations
from their dung are so intolerable, that
it requires great resolution to inspect the
cave. No. 2 is a cave with 12 pillars,
on which the paintings are tolerably
perfect. There is a statue of Buddha in
the sanctuary, and a chapel on each side
of it. In the N. chapel are two fat
figures, a male and female; and in the
S. chapel two obese males. Cells line
each side of the hall, No. 1 is very
handsome, and the paintings are in fair
preservation and extremely interesting.
The hall is 64 ft. square, with 20 pillars,
each 3 ft. in diameter, richly carved, with
bracket capitals. The verandah is 98 ft.
long, and there is a chapel at each end.
Returning now to the centre, No. 13
is a small cave with two cells, and de-
void of interest. No. 14 is a large un-
finished cave beneath it. Only the
pillars of the verandah are finished.
Within, the first line of pillars are hewn
out, but left in the rough. No. 15 is a
plain square cave, nearly filled up with
mud and débris.
Nos. 16 and 17 are the two finest
vihārahs of the series. On the external
faces are two long inscriptions. These
caves date, probably, between the fourth
and sixth century A.D. No. 16 is 67 ft.
6 in. wide, and 66 ft. 2 in. deep, exclu-
sive of the sanctuary. Around the centre
hall are 20 pillars painted with some-
thing like a Roman scroll, alternating
with wreaths of flowers. The paintings
in the great hall are very £
representing battles. The soldiers hold
short swords like the Nipálese knife, and
oblong shields. The architectural de-
tails are more elegant than in any cave
in the series. No. 17 is called the
Zodiac cave, and resembles 16, except
that it is not so lofty, and the detai
are not so elegant. The paintings, how-
ever, are more perfect. It is 64 ft, by
63 ft., and has 20 pillars. On the right
hand wall, as you enter, a procession is
painted. Three elephants are issuin
from a gateway, one black, one red, an
one white. Flags and umbrellas are borne
before them, and men with spears and
swords make up the train. On the back
wall is a hunting scene, in which a
maned lion is a prominent figure. In
the verandah are some curious paintings,
especially a circular one, with eight com-
artments. Over the door are 8 sitting
gures, of which 4 are black, and the
rest each a degree fairer, the 8th being
quite white and wearing a crown. Mr.
Fergusson pronounces these paintings to
be £ y superior to the style of
Europe during the age in which they
were executed.
No 18 is merely a porch with two
pillars. No. 19 is a Chaitya cave. It
is only 46 ft. 4 in. by 23 ft. 7 in. wide,
but it is remarkable for the beauty and
completeness of its details. Seventeen
richly ornamented pillars surround the
nave, and above them a band with niches
containing Buddha, standing and sitting
alternately. The roof is ribbed in stone.
The Daghopa has three stone umbrellas,
rising till they touch the roof; in front
is a standing figure of Buddha,


Madras.
107
ROUTE 19.-SIKANDAR (BAD To £LüRA—AJAYANTí.
No. 20 is a vihārah 28 ft. 2 in. wide,
by 25 ft. 6 in. deep, with two cells on
each side. The roof is supported by
advancing the sanctuary 7 ft. into the
hall, with two columns in antis in front.
By this arrangement an external colon-
nade is dispensed with.
Leaving No. 20, the traveller proceeds
some distance along a narrow and dan-
gerous ledge, and the heat radiating from
the rock is terrific. No 21, which is
reached after this passage, is 52 ft. 6 in.
deep, by 51 ft. 6 in. wide. The paint-
ings are almost obliterated, except on the
left hand as you enter, where there is a
large black Buddha, with red hair, at-
tended by black slaves. There are, also,
a number of females, fair as Europeans.
The ornaments in this cave are executed
in an inferior style.
No. 22 is but 17 ft. square, and has
only two rough hewn pillars in front of
the sanctuary, in which is a seated figure
of Buddha with the legs down.
No 23 is an unfinished vihārah, with
12 £ and without paintings. It is
51 ft. by 51 ft. 8 in. No. 24 is half
filled with mud, and is unfinished; but
the details, where completed, are so rich
as to leave no doubt that this would have
been one of the finest caves had the de-
sign been fully carried out. Only one
illar has been completely sculptured;
it was intended that there should be 20,
The centre hall would have been 43 ft.
uare, and the whole cave 74 ft. square.
The verandah is finished, but of the six
columns three are broken. In this cave
the whole process of excavation may be
traced. It appears that the rough work
was done with the pickaxe, and that
stones were not regularly quarried, but
the rock being a soft amygdaloidal £
it was first cleared roughly with the pick,
and then carved into pillars, etc. No.
25 is a small rude vihārah with 10
pillars. No. 26 is a vaulted, or chaitya
cave, and decidedly the most modern of
the series. It resembles No. 19, but is
much larger, being 66 ft. 1 in long, and
36 ft. 3 in. wide. The width of the
nave is 17 ft. 7 in. Its sculptures are
more numerous and minute than those of
any other, but they are inferior in design
and execution. The Buddha in front of
the Daghopa is seated, with his feet down.
The walls are covered with sculptures
of Buddha and disciples. In the S. aisle
is a figure 23 ft. long, reclining all its
length, in which attitude Buddhists ' -
pare to receive nirvanah, “beatitude.”
Above are many angels, one of them
sounding vigorously a big drum. The
fat figures with wigs, which serve as
brackets, have here four arms. There
are two inscriptions on the outside, one
under a figure of Buddha on the left of
the entrance; the other much broken,
but more distinct, on the right, in the
character of the 9th or 10th century, A.D.
No. 27 is a small square vihārah with-
out pillars, unfinished, the sanctuary be-
ing only commenced. The front has
completely crumbled away. There ap-
# to be one or two caves beyond this,
ut the ledge having fallen they are
quite inaccessible. It must be noticed,
that the E. I. Company have wisely and
liberally employed Capt. Gill for some
years in taking copies of the paintings
at these caves, which have already suf-
fered much, and must in the course of
time utterly perish. Several of these
copies have been sent to England, and
are now (1857) exhibited at the Crystal
Palace, Sydenham. They have been
much admired by eminent English artists.
Although the chief subjects are un-
doubtedly Buddhist, yet some few are as
indisputably Saiva. Several of the
Buddhist paintings represent incidents
that are related in the popular legends
of the life of Buddha. Others delineate
domestic manners and customs of sin-
£ interest. The dates are obviously
iversified, but none probably are later
than the third or fourth century of the
Christian era, while others precede it by
one or two centuries. In spite of what
has been said, however, and what is
generally believed, as to their connection
with Buddhism, some may think that
they really portray the history of
Krishna. That deity is represented of
a black or blue hue, and the introduc-
tion of soldiers, women, and elephants,
is some ground for believing that the
scenes relate rather to the seventh than
the eighth incarnation of Vishnu.


108 Sect. II. Madras.
N A GPU R.
Preliminary Information.
1. BounDARIES AND GENERAL ASPECT of THE PROVINCE-DIVISIONs.
2. HISTORICAL SKETCH-CASTEs—EMPLOYMENTs oF THE NATIVEs.
1. BounDARIES AND GENERAL ASPECT of THE PRovINCE—DIVISIONs.
This province, lying between lat. 17° 15', and 23° 5', and long 78° 3', and
83° 10', is bounded on the N. by the British territory of Ságar and Narmada;
on the E. b £ the British districts of Sambhalpur and Udaipur, and a
large tract of unexplored country; on the S. by the Indrawati river, a tributary
of the Godavarí, and the hill Principality of Jaypur and the Ghats, which skirt
the collectorate of Ganjām; and on the W. by the territories of the Nizām. Its
extreme length, from N. to S., is 368 m., and its greatest breadth, from E. to W.,
278. Its area is 76,432 square miles.
In shape the province of Nágpur resembles a triangle, the base being the
E. side in the direction of Bengal, and the other two sides running up to the
apex a little beyond the city # Nágpur on the N.W. On the N. this tract
of country is of a mountainous character, being traversed by spurs from the
great Windhyan range. No part of it, however, towards the W. has a greater
elevation than 2500 ft. above the sea, though on the E. it rises above 3000 at
Amarakanthaka, but it soon sinks into a plain, the average level of which is
but 1050 ft. above the level of the sea, and is thus considerably below the
summits of the E. Ghats. The table land of the Dakhan, therefore, which
towards the W. is in some places 3000, in others 2000, ft. above the sea, here
sinks into a hollow lower than the hills which form its rim. The climate,
as might be expected, is in these parts generally hot, close, and unhealthy. The
slope is from N.W., to S.E., and the drainage is for the most part received into
the Bay of Bengal, into which the two principal rivers—the Mahānadi, and
the Wain Ganga, the latter falling into the Godavari—flow. Of the unexplored
country on the S.E., all we know is, that it is hilly, covered with jungle, and
swarming with wild beasts.
The province of Nagpur has five principal divisions. 1. Sindhwāra, or
Deogarh above the Ghâts; 2. Nagpur, or Deogarh below the Ghats; 3. Bhan-
dāra, or Wain Ganga; 4. Raipur, or Chhattisgarh; 5. Chanda.
2. HISTORICAL SKETCH-CASTEs—EMPLOYMENTs oF THE NATIVEs.
Little or nothing is known of the ancient history of this country. Elliot,
in his “Glossary” (357), says that it derives its name from the Nag races,
who were Scythians, and who were so called from their having a snake
(Nag) represented on their standard. The same authority tells us this people
invaded India about 600 B.C. All this is mere conjecture. It is extremely
improbable, or rather wholly unimaginable that any Scythian people should
have had the particular serpent—the cobra—which alone is designated Nāga,
on their flag. If they had a common snake as their emblem, the Indians would
not have called it Nága, but given it a generic name. Further, we know that


Ndgpw. HISTORICAL sxnrcn. 109
an old mythological legend of the Hindfis makes Petal, or Hell, peopled with
a snake-race, and this le end either arose from the world-ancient tradition of
the Fall, or was invented y the brahmans after the Naga had become associated
with their worship of Mahadev and Durga, 1'. e. long after the supposed Scythian
invasion. Finally, it would be strange if invaders should give their name
especially to that tract of territory which, owing to its impenetrable jungles, and
still more to its comparative worthlessness, has been of all parts of India the
most exem t from invasion.
After t e Muhammadan invasion of the Dakhan, inroads were made into
the N’ ur territo , and, in time, parts of it, particularly on the N .W., were
occnpie ; but Gon wana remained unconquered. One of Auran zib’s generals,
indeed, took prisoner the Gond Chief of Deogarh, and carried 'm to Delhi,
where he was converted to Islam, and then Slermitted to return to his country.
It was_n0t, however, till the middle of the 18 century that permanent progress
was made in subjugating the Gond tribes. In 1734, Raghuji Bhonslé, descended
from a family whose native village was Deviir, near Satéra, and who were of
the same name as that of the great Sivaji, superseded his cousin Kanhoji in the
office of Sena Sahib Sfibah. Sahu Raye, son of Sambhuji, grandson of Sivaji,
and then the head of the Marirtha nation, at the same time that he elevated
Raghnji to this high oflice, ave to him in marriage the sister of one of his own
wives, of the great family 0 Sirké, and assigned to him the province of Berar.
Raghuji soon showed himself to be one of the best Maratha generals. He
lundered Katak, and made an incursion as far as Allahabad, where he slew
huj’a K_h_an, the Sfibahdar, and returned loaded with spoil. In 1740, Raghuji,
with a large army, invaded the Karnatak, and defeated and slew Dost ’Ali,
the Nfiwab, in the neighbourhood of the Damalcheri Pass. He then left the
army for some time, and went to Satara, to oppose the elevation of Balaji Baji
Rao to the oflice of Peshwa. Failing in this object, he returned to the Karnatak,
and on the 26th of March, 1741, took Trichinapalli, and sent Husain Dost
flan, commonly known as Chanda Sahib, son-in-law of Dost ’Ali, to Satara,
where he remained a prisoner seven years. Next year, Raghuji led back his
army to his own territories to support his Diwan, Bhéskar Pant, in an invasion
of Bengal; but the Peshwa, allying himself to Aliverdi Igan, the Subahdar of
Bengal, attacked and defeated Raghujf. In 1744, Raghuji formed so powerful an
alliance against the Peshwa, that he was obliged to concede to him the collection
of revenue from Lakhnau, Patna, and Lower Bengal, including Bahar, and also
the sole authority of levying tribute in the territory from Berar to Katak. On
the conclusion of this treaty, Raghu'i despatched Bhaskar Pant with 20,000
horse, to invade Ben 91. Aliverdi lam, on pretence of comin to an agree-
ment with that chie , invited him and twenty of his principal ofiiccrs to a
banquet, where he put them all to death. Ra huji Gaekwar, who was left
in camp, led back the discomfited arm to agpur. Undismayed by this
disaster, Raghuji Bhonslé invaded Orissa, ut was compelled by an insurrection
of the tributary Gond Chiefs of Deogarh and Chanda to return. He quelled
the insurrection, and annexed Deogarh and Chanda to his own dominions.
In 1749, Raghuji sent his son Janoji with 10,000 horse to aid N agir Jang
in his expedition into the Karnatak; and in January in the next year proceeded
to Satara with 12,000 men, to confer with the Peshwa as to the successor to
Sahu R2'i'e., just deceased. On his recognising Ram Raja, he received new
ts o Berar, Gondwana, and Ben 91. eturning to Nagpur, Raghujf
spatched his son, who had left Nagir ang, into Orissa, and in 1751 compelled
Aliverdi Qan to cede the whole province to him, as far N. as Balasfir. In
the meantime, Raghuji himself was not idle, but made new acquisitions in Berar,
and took the forts of Gawelgarh, Narnalla, and Manikdrug, with the districts
dependent on them. He also laid the whole country between the Pain Gangs


110 HISTORICAL SKETCH. Sect. II. Madras.
and the Godavarf under contribution, drove out the Mughul posts, and established
his own. In March, 1753, he died, and bequeathed to his eldest son, J anoji, the
territories of a king.
The exploits of Janojf are scarcely worth chroniclin . He had the good
fortune to be absent from the terrible defeat of Panipat, w ere so many Maratha
chieftains fell. In 1763, he joined himself to Nigam ’A’li, against the Peshwa,
and with his Muhammadan allies plundered Piinah, but shortly afterwards
deserted them as they were crossin the Godavari, and so occasioned their defeat,
with the loss of 10,000 men. or this treachery he received from Raghunath
Rae, uncle of the Peshwa and Regent, territory elding £320,000 a-year. In
1766, the Nigam and the Peshwa formed an al 'ance, and compelled Janoji to
restore three-fourths of the land he had received. In 1769, the same allies
entered Berar, defeated and killed Naru Pant, J ano'i‘s Viceroy, and plundered
Nagpur. J anoji, on his art, carried the war into t e enemy’s dominions, and
ravaged the neighbourhoo of Piinah. Nevertheless, on the 23rd of March, 1770,
he was obliged to agree to disadvantageous terms. He gave up the rest of the
territory he had received for deserting the Nigam in the war of 1763, and
submitted to pay a tribute of £50,000. l‘his was called the treaty of Kanka ur.
In May, 1773, J anoji died childless, and was succeeded by his only nep ew,
Raghuji, whose father, Mudaji, held the reins as Regent. In 1779, Warren
Hastings despatched Mr. Elliot to Mudaji, offering to form an alliance with him,
and to aid him in becoming Raja of all the Marathas, an impossible and im-
politic pro'ect. Mudaji, sensible of his own want of claims, declined the alliance.
n 1780, astin s offered terms of eace to the Peshwa, through Muda'i; but
the Nagpur chie was already incline to join his countrymen against the ritish,
and Ba1llie’s defeat happening just at this time, still more disposed him to avoid a
connection with the foreigners. He therefore so managed the negotiations that
they came to nothing. In the meantime he had despatched his second son,
Chinnaji, with 30,000 horse, into Katak. Hastings obtained the recal of this
army, which a great authority tells us might at that moment have pillaged
Bengal, and burnt the towns from Bardwan to Point Palmyras. The Governor-
General, however, paid high for this concession, and for the aid of 2,000 N ur
horse, which was to move with Colonel Pearce’s detachment against Haidar ’ i.
He gave £160,000, or 50,000 rupees a month for the pay of the auxiliaries, and
gs aidlto Mudaji in raising a loan of £ 100,000 more, and in reducing Garha
anda a.
In 1786, we find the Nagpur troops assistin the Peshwa in taking the fort
of Badami from Tfpii. In 1788, Mudaji died. n 1796, Nana Farnavis made a
treat with Raghu_]i’ very advanta eons to the latter. In 1803, Raghujijoined
Sin 'a in his war with the Englis , was present at the battle of Assye, and fled
disgracefully from the field. On the 17th of December of that year, Raghuji
made peace, and ceded to the British the province of Katak and all his territory
to the W. of the river Varada, and S. of the hills on which stand the forts of
Narnalla and Gavelgarh. This was the treat of Deogaon. On the 22nd of
March, 1816, Raghu_]i died, and was succeeded y his son Parsajf, but he being of
weak intellect, the government devolved upon his cousin, Mudaji, commonly
called Appa Sahib, son of Venkaji Manya Bapu, who commanded at the battle
of Argaon. Ap a $al_iib, in order to consolidate his power, made overtures to
the English, ancl) concluded a defensive alliance with them, by which he agreed
to pay the field-charges of one regiment of cavalry and 6,000 infantry, and to
maintain a subsidiary force of 3,000 horse and 2,000 foot. As soon, however, as
he felt his power secured, he murdered Parsaji, and en aged in intrigues with the
Peshwa. _ he English, ignorant of the manner of arsajfs death, reclaimed
Appa $al_iib his successor, by the name of Mudaji Bhonslé. On t e 26th of
Nov., 1817, Appa Sahib threw ofl‘ the mask, and attacked the English _at


Ndgpur. CASTES-—EMPLOYM'ENTS or rnn NATIVES. 111
_ ....-n .- an-1- 2.'_r*uil H‘ ll ii .-I ‘H \z.Iri>'ll.sI._kl'|u Lrfi f4» E1-F h‘i.
Sitabaldi, an account of which battle is iven elsewhere (see Nagpur). On
the 15th of December, Appa surrendered an was reinstated; but being shortly
afterwards discovered intri 'ng against the British, he was arrested and sent off
to be confined in Allaha ad. On the way he corrupted his guard of Bengal
Sipahis, and made his esca e to the Mahadev hills, where he was joined by the
celebrated Pindari chief, C itii, and subsequentl threw himself into Asirgarh.
This fortress was taken b General Dovcton on t e 9th of April, 1819, but Apps.
_Sal_iib escaped to the Si hs, while Chitii, having also fled from the fort, was
devoured by a tiger. A grandson of Raghuji was proclaimed Rajé. of Nagpur, in
succession to Appa, by the name of his grandfather. During the minor-it of this
rince, the Nagpur territory was placed under the able management of the I esident,
r. Jenkins, and, to use the words of Colonel Sutherland, “became compara-
tively a arden." In 1826, the Raja having attained his 19th year, his territories
were ma e over to him, except the tract the revenues of which were applied to
the pay of the Contingent. In 1829, this tract was likewise given up to the
Raj s, and in lieu of the Contin ent, he agreed to pay a yearly subsidy of £ 80,000.
In 1840, Appa Sahib died at odhpur, the Rfififi of which place, Man Singli, in
accordance with the chivalrous feelings of the ajputs, had refused to surrender
the fu itive to the English. The English, to their honour be it said, respected
the forging which prompted the refusal; and, while they informed Man Singh
that he would be held responsible for the behaviour of his guest, forbore to enforce
his extradition. On the 11th of December, 1863, Raghuji, the last Raja of
N ur, died without issue, and his territories lapsed to the British.
he most remarkable people in these territories are the Gonds, who are the
aborigines of the Sager provinces and of Nagpur, and are not improbably the
same as the Khonds of the N. Sarkars. They are very black, short in stature,
but thick-set and muscular. Elliot describes them as truthful, drunken, and
superstitious. The two latter qualities they undoubtedly possess; their truth-
fulness is probably only a deficiency of invention. Human sacrifices were com-
mon among them before the strong arm of the British Government interposed.
Spry accuses them of cutting the throats of the sick and devouring them. They
have a language eculiar to themselves, unconnected with the Sanskrit, but pro-
bably akin to the ravidian stock. Their country is covered with a dense jungle
swarming with tigers and other beasts of prey, yet it is marvellous with what
confidence and security they thread the forests. The fact is their ste is noise-
less, their dark color conceals them, and they are thoroughly acquainte with the
localities. Thus, they avoid osen glades surrounded with jungle, where the
tigers resort to hunt the deer, an , in general, they move out only when the sun
is hot. Yet, no doubt, numbers are destroyed by wild beasts. They are fond of
trfiaring fowls, swine, and buifalos, and these last are no doubt a protection to
em. »
Gondwana has been thought by some to be the ancient Ohedi, which was
ruled by Sisupal in the time of Krishna. They iden ' Chandéri, his capital,
with Ohandail. In 1433, we find the Gond Raja, arsin 'h Rai, who is
represented as powerful and wealthy, slain in battle b Hushang, ing of Mélwah,
and his capital Kehrla taken. In 1513, the Gon chiefs formed a powerful
oonfederacy against the king of Malwah. Akbar reduced the W. part of Gond-
wfma, and the Marathas, as has been already recounted, subjugated almost all
the accessible parts. Much of the country, however, remains even yet unknown.


112
Sect. II.
RouTE 20.—JALNA To KAMPTí.
ROUTE 20.
JALNA To NAGPUR AND KAMPTí.
257M. 13 F. To NAGPUR; 267 M. 6} F. To
KAMPTí.
MILITARY AUTHORITY to Varada river
after Tuesa—Officer commanding Hai-
darābādsubsidiary force–Sikandardbad.
To Kamptí—Officer commanding Nág-
pur. Subsidiary Force–Kampti.
CIVIL AUTHORITY to Varada river
after Tuesa—Resident at Haidardbdd.
To Kampti-Resident at Nagpur.
STAGES.
BLACES. M. F. M. F.
From m. on left of canton-
ment at Jalna to Pipal-
gaon......... •-
Manga Dewalgaon .........
x large n. to PANGRI ...
x n. to Asarkaira...........
x 2 n. to Dongaon........
x 5 m. to AKOLI .........
x 3 n. to Timborní..... -
x n. to Sangi ........ - - - -
x Pôrna r. to J’AFARA-
AD, t. 9......... • * * * * * * * * *
Pipalkóta................... • •
x Damna r. and 3 small n.
Borkaira .....................
x large n. to WARUD ...
Sanjol ................ • - - - - -
x n to Pokhar.....
Paláskaira ...... - - -
Chandí........................
x large n, to Chikli.........
Ditto PETA ends .........
#
8
4
10 5}
|
6
7
9
2
1
1
0
Deothánah ..................
x Páin Gangár. to Uttara-
dapét........... • * * * * * * * * * * * *
i
Descend hill........... :
x n. to AMARAPUR......
x Man r. and 2 n. to Toren-
|
|
W
:
:
1
3
5
ur..... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Gate at the top of Lākhen-
wári Ghat..................
x 2 n. and Lindí r. to
LAKEIENWARI ..... -
x 3 m. to Ambé Takli......
3
:
1
3
6
PLACES.
Re-cross Lindi r. and 2 n.
to BOTA..................
Descend a hill...............
Pass up the bed of n. to
Lonf.................. -
x Man r. to Chicholi......
x 2 n. to WARAGAON...
x Nirguna r. and n. to
Nakkast ..................
Bara Koragaon ... •-
Kalmajer.....................
x 2 n. to AKOLAH FORT
* 0. .............. •-
x Murna r. to Dásenpét...
Umri.................. ---
x 4 n. to Khurdí... -
x n. to Shísa ...............
x 2 n. to BHORGAON...
x 3 n. to Rhambapur......
x Katapuirna r, to KU-
RANKAIR...............
x n. to Koragaon ..........
X 2 large n. to Chikli......
MURTAZAPUR
Irpur ........................
x Khambé n. to Jatapur...
Manna ........................
x Umah, Korti, Bota, and
Landí n. to KORAD
x 5 n. to Pichinägi.........
x 3 n. to Gannúrí .........
x 2 n. to BIALAM.........
x 2 n. to Kautah............
(a) x 4 n. and the Nandini
r. to Amråwati, t. o. ...
End of AMRAWATI ...
x 4 n. to Rāhadgaon ......
x 3 n. to Bhorgaon.........
x Bhor and Nand r, to
Nandgaon ...... --- •
x 2 n. to Sãwali............
x 2 n. to PIPALJIRAH
x Suru Gangá n. to Sewan-
ãon..................... - -
x Ditto to Sindholah ......
x Bhāgal n. to Mojeri ...
Taligãon .................. --
Pengala r. to TUESA.
Mandapur •-
x Ganeshpét n. to Baoli
Ghat........................
STAGES.
M. F. M. F.
2 7 7 3
2 0
2 3
2 2
3 6 10 3
1 4
3 7
4 0
4 1 13 4
1 2
1 3
1 7
3 6
2 5 10 7
2 3
3 7 6 2
3 1
2 4
3 1 8 6
2 1
2 3
3 1
6 1 13 6
3 1
2 2
2 5 8 0
2 2
5 2
0 7 8 3
3 2
2 2
2 2
3 3
26 13 7
2 2
2 1
1 9
1 6
2 5 10 7
3 5
1 4
4 4 9 5
2 0


Madras. RoUTE 20.—JALNA To
KAMPTí—AMRAwATí. 113
STAGES.
M. F.,
PLACES.
Descend Ghāt ..... • * * * * * * * * *
Descend a Ghát ...
x n. to Sabandí ...
SARWARI ..........
× 5 n. to Kapri ............
x 2 n. to Karinjäh.........
Pass 2 hills and 4 n. to
THANAGAON ...... • • •
x 6 n. to KONDALI......
x Jám r. and several n. to
Ringnapuri.............. •
x Sakdo n. to BAZAR-
GAON ................. • * * *
x several n, and Khirkí r.
1
1
:9
:7
3
7
9 0
6 5
x Woni Gangá r. and n. to
KAIR.I..................... 9 3
:
x a hill and 4 n. to Takiya
x 3 m. and the Kálápání n.
to Wärí ..................
Rájá's Banglá.. -
x 2 n. to Karkao............
(b) x_n, to NAGPUR
RESIDENCY, p. o. ...
:
1 0 11 7
257 1}
Old Barracks ...............
x n. to a chauki and bázár
x 4 n. to Khafri............
x n. to Kamptí (church)...
(e) KAMPTI (Main Guard)
£7. 0. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
|
2:
10 5
267 6#
There is nothing particular to be
remarked until the traveller reaches
the flourishing town of Amrawati. The
country is undulating, and in some
places intersected with ravines. , Chikli
is a place with about 1000 houses.
Akolah is a town surrounded by a
stone and brick wall, with a lofty fort.
At Waragdon supplies are scarce and
dear. Murtazapur is a considerable
town with 4000 houses. After Korad
the road becomes indifferent, and passes
through thick jungle.
(a) Amrdwati, prop. Amaravati,
“immortal,” as the great entrepôt for
the cotton of Berár, is likely to become
one of the most important towns in
India. The district in which it is
situated has been made over by the
Nizām to the British, and, consequently,
the vexatious imposts and transit duties,
which so long impeded and crippled
the trade of i. place, are at an end.
It has, indeed, long been a flourishing
commercial town, and most of the
leading merchants in Upper India (see
Thornton's Gazetteer), as well as those
at Bombay, have their correspondents
or branch houses here. Their agents
traverse the cotton growing districts,
and make advances of money to the
cultivators, by which they secure the
produce to themselves. Thus, when
the crop is ripe for picking, the culti-
vator has, in general, nothing further
to do with it. The capitalists have it
picked under the superintendence of
their subordinates, and it is then trans-
ferred to Amråwati, where large ware-
houses are open to receive it. It is
then cleaned and repacked for exporta-
tion, either from Bombay or Calcutta.
It is easy to see that this system has
its faults. The cultivator is kept poor
and impoverished, and has not the
capital to use means for improving the
growth. If he is '' to pick
the cotton, as must often be the case,
he has no interest in its being clean
and in good order, his bargain being
already concluded. We may look, how-
ever, for great improvements, now that
the whole country is in the possession
of the English Government. What
Amråwati may become may be in-
ferred from the amount of its trade
under all its disadvantages. Statis-
tical information is wanting, but a
single fact may be quoted as to its
commerce. In 1842, a single merchant
despatched thence to Calcutta 100,000
bullock-loads of cotton.
Water is deficient at Amråwatí during
the hot season. The soil is black. There
were here several remarkable Buddhist
sculptures surrounding the base of a
hillock, no doubt the site, and possibly
the remains, of a Tope. They were first
noticed by Colonel Mackenzie. Several
specimens were brought away, and so
rescued from the destruction caused
both by the villagers and Company's
officers, who used the slabs uncere-


114
Sect. II.
noorr: 20.-—J.'ir.si ro xAnrri——1~:.'ierUn.
moniously for building materials. Some
were deposited in the Calcutta Society’s
Museum ; but several of very elaborate
execution are preserved in the Museum
of the East India Com any.
There is nothing o interest on the
route between this and N ur. The
road is in general hilly an stony, and
in some parts narrow.
(6) Ndgpur, “ Snake city," from Skr.
mfg, “a cobra," and pur, “town,” is
the capital of Gondwana. It is 930 ft.
above the level of the sea, but this
elevation is owing to its being situated
in the table land above the Ghats, for,
as compared with the country of which
it is the capital, it lies low. It is, in
fact, built in a low swampy hollow,
unhealthy b nature, and even more
so through t e negli ence and filthiness
of its inhabitants. t is, including the
suburbs, which are extensive, about
7 m. in circumference, and contains
about 115,000 inhabitants, of whom,
more than half live in thatched huts.
These huts are interspersed with a vast
number of trees, Wl110l1 intercept the
air, and increase the unhealthiness of
the place. The town lies on the N. bank
of the N ag river, a small stream which
falls into the Kanhan some miles to the
E. About a mile due W. of the town,
are the two hills of Sitabaldi, where
the celebrated action-named after the
place, the battle of Sitabaldi—was
fought. In close proximity to them
on the W. is the Residency. Due E.
of them, and between them and the
town, is a tank about three-quarters of
a mile long, and 400 yards broad, called
the Jam’a Talao, surrounded by the
Péta, or suburbs, and a few hundred
yards to the E. of it is the wall of the
city, properly so called, about 3 m. in
circumference, but very imperfect. To-
wards the centre of this, is the old
palace of the Rajas, and more to the E.
the old fort.
The Palace is a large tasteless stone
building encrusted with mean huts, which
have been reared against its very walls.
The grand entrance is on the N. side.
There are some finely-carved black
wooden pillars, 30 ft. high, supporting
the portico and the principal courts; but

the grand entrance itself is choked up by
an unseemly pile of stables and work-
shops. These were happily burnt down
in 1846, but the Raj 2., with the obstinacy
of his race, insisted on their being rebuilt,
brick for brick, in the same objection-
able locality. There is a row of fine
houses extending in a line due E. from
the palace, but the way to them is ob-
structed b a foul open sewer, across
which the Ttajas and their families have
for generations passed by stepping-
stones. The houses of the great nobles
look into this ditch, and some of the
chiefs have not failed to pay the penalt
of residing in such a neighbourhoody,
being martyrs to cutaneous diseases.
N. of the fort extends the suburb, in
which are three small tanks. On the
S. bank of the N ag river are the
Imambarah, and a suburb called Nara-
yan Rae Vakil K51 Pét. About three-
quarters of a mile to the S.E. of this
suburb is the Sukhi Darah garden ; and
in this spot, between the said garden
and the suburb, on the 16th December,
1817, General Doveton defeated the
forces of Appa Sahib, Raja of N’ vpur.
The W. gate of the fort is calle the
Jam'a darwdzah, and here General Dove-
ton, after three days’ battering, on the
23rd of December, attempted to storm,
many of the troops of the Raja, par-
ticularly the Arabs, having thrown
themselves into the town after their
defeat on the 16th. In spite of the
gallantry of the troops, the attempt to
enter the cit failed, with the loss of
2 ofiicers an 53 men killed, and 14
otficers and 216 men wounded.
The action of Sitabaldi, fought on the
26th and 27th of November preceding
General D0veton’s operations just men-
tioned, was one of the most glorious in
the page of Indian history. The Eng-
lish force at Nagpur consisted of a bri-
ade of 2 battalions of Madras Native
nfantry, the 1st battalion of the 20th
Regiment, and the 1st of the 24th, both
much reduced by sickness; 2 companies
of Native Infantry, forming the Resi-
dent's escort; three troops of the 6th
Bengal Cavalry; and four 6-pounders,
manned by Europeans of the Madras
Artillery: in all 1,350 men, commanded


Madras.
115
RouTE 20.—JALNA To KAMPTí—NAGPUR.
by Colonel Hopeton Scott. The Maratha
army numbered about 18,000 men, of
whom 3,000 were Arabs, with 36 guns.
The Sítábaldi hills, which the English
had chosen for their position, were na-
turally very strong. Two eminences,
N. and S. of each other, and due E. of
the Residency, are joined by a broad
saddle about 300 y: long. The N.
hill being almost a cone, could only
cover a few men with two guns; but
the S. eminence had been used as a
Muhammadan burying ground, and, be-
ing flat at top, could hold one or two
battalions in column. It was accord-
ingly occupied by the main force, while
300 men of the 24th Regiment, under
Captain Sadler, occupied the conical hill
to the N. The cavalry, under Captain
Fitzgerald, held the enclosures surround-
ing the Residency, behind and partly to
the right of the S. hill. A village of the
Arabs skirted the bottom of the N. or
lesser hill, and the gathering of the
Arabs there grew so menacing that Col.
Scott thought it requisite to post sen-
tries close up to it on the evening of the
26th. The Arabs remonstrated against
this measure, but the English com-
mander informed them that it was a
military precaution which had become
indispensable, and that the sentries could
not be withdrawn. On this the Arabs
opened a fire of matchlocks and drove in
the picquets. A severe action then be-
£ and a sharp fire was kept up on
th sides throughout the night.
At daylight the Arabs had got their
heavy guns into position, and recom-
menced the attack with a heavy cannon-
ade and volleys of musketry. By this time
the 1st battalion of the 24th had suffered
so severely that it became necessary to
reinforce them with 50 men of the 20th
Regiment. At five a.m. this force was
again so crippled that the remains of the
24th Regiment were withdrawn, and
their place taken by the Resident's
escort. At the same time, the lower
part of the hill was abandoned, and onl
the very summit retained, a breastwor
of grain bags being formed to shelter the
defenders. At nine o’clock some con-
fusion was created by the explosion of a
tumbril, and the Arabs, who had formed
under cover of a deep quarry, which
allowed them to get within 30 yds. of
the English unseen, charged sword in
hand, and carried the N. hill or lower
eminence. At the same time they
forced their way into the huts of the
British troops, and the cries of their
women and children reached the ears of
the Sipáhis. The grounds of the Resi-
dency were also now attacked, cannon
were brought to bear on the enclosures,
and the enemy's cavalry, in masses,
threatened to break in.
At this desperate moment the coura
and judgment of one man saved the
English force from total destruction.
Captain Fitzgerald had repeatedly re-
quested permission to charge with his
cavalry, and had been as often refused.
He now sent once more to ask Colonel
Scott for leave, and was answered,
“Tell him to charge at his peril!”
“At my peril be it,” said Fitzgerald,
and instantly gave the word to advance.
As soon as he got clear of the enclosures,
he formed his men and made a furious
charge ": the main body of the
enemy's horse, which melted away be-
fore him, as an eye-witness said, “like
a thread in the flame of a candle.” He
took 2 guns which the Marātha cavalry
had with them, overthrew and cut to
pieces a body of infantry drawn up near
them, and came back to the Residency
with the captured guns in triumph.
The English troops on the hill were
spectators of this brilliant charge, which
they acknowledged with repeated huzzas,
£ glowing with enthusiasm, rushed
down upon the lower hill to recover it
from the Arabs. It fortunately hap-
pened that at this very moment a maga-
zine of the Arabs exploded, and threw
them into confusion. Before they could
recover, the English troops were upon
them, and swept them headlong down
the hill, capturing two guns which they
spiked. In a short time the Arabs
rallied at the foot of the hill, and were
preparing to charge up it again, when
they were broken by a troop of cavalry
under Cornet Smith, which, passing
round the base of the hill, took them in
flank and dispersed them. The English
infantry now advanced, drove the enemy


116
Sect. II. Jlfad/rae.
acorn 20.—:.'u.ru ro KAMPTI-—KAMPTI.
from the surrounding huts, and b noon
the contest was over, and the ritish
arms were crowned with complete suc-
oess.
Our loss was 833 killed and wounded,
according to Hamilton and Grant Duff;
318, according to Fitzclarenee; and 367,
accordin to Blacker. Mr. Sotheby,
first assistant to the Resident, a very
promising civilian, Captain Sadler and
Adjutant Grant of the 24th, Lieutenant
Clarke of the 20th, and Dr. Nixen
were killed, and 11 European oflicers
were wounded. It is remarkable, that
, in the descri tion of this memorable
battle, there s ould be the most pointed
discrepancies between those from whom
the greatest accuracy might have been
expected. The accounts of Colonels
Blacker and Fitzclarence have been here
followed. On the other hand, Grant
Duff and several others maintain that it
was the S. hill that was taken and not
the N. In the same way, Grant Duff
allots but one 6-pounder to the defence
of the hill which was carried by the
enemy, while Fitzclarence gives two.
The dilference in the statements as to
loss has been already noticed.
(0) Kwmpti.—After the treacherous
attack of the Raja of Nagpur on the
English troops at Sitabaldi, it was re-
solved to occupy the neighborhood of
the capital permanently with a subsi-
dia force. At the close, therefore,
of t e Maratha war of 1817, a canton-
ment for such a subsidiary force was
formed close to the Residency at Nag-
ur, at the foot of the Sitabaldi hills.
his situation, however, was found so
unhealthy, that in a few years it was
abandoned, and Kampti was selected
in its stead. The cantonment extends
about 4% miles on the right, or S. bank
of the river Kanhan (Kunnan of Top.
Reports . The river flows tortuously
from . to E., and falls into the Wain
Ganga, near Bandaola, 54 miles below
Kamptf. It rises in a range of
hills 120 miles N.W. of Kampti. On
the extreme W. are the race-course,
the artillery exercise ground, and the
European horse artille lines. Pro-
ceedin E., the next buildings are the
barrac s for European infantry, calcu-
lated to hold 1,000 men, lofty, and
situated on high ground. N. of these
are the lines of the Gun Lascars, and
E. of them the Native infantry lines,
for most part on elevated ground, and
the ofiicers’ quarters, the best to be
found throughout the Madras Presi-
denc . Next comes the bazar, which
is o considerable extent, with many
shops of Parsis, well supplied with Euro-
pean stores. S. of this, is another race-
course and the brigade parade-ground;
and at the E. extremity of the canton-
ment are the cavalry lines. The
climate of Kampti is remarkable for the
extremes of heat and cold. During the
cold season, that is, from the 20th of
October to the middle of March, the
mean temperature in the house is 68°,
and at sunrise, outside, the thermometer
sometimes falls to 36°. In the hot
season, from the middle of March till
the 10th of June, from 12 to 4,p.m.,
the heat is generally from 96° to 104°
in ordinary houses. In the rainy season
which succeeds, the heat is less oppres-
sive. Gardens are cultivated with great
success at Kampti. Among fruits,
oranges are especiaflm be mentioned,
bein of a superior ' d here. When
the ate Raja was questioned by the
Resident with respect to the products
of the country, in order that the best
mi ht be transmitted to the London
E ibition, he said, “My country is
famous for oranges and pdn,” ¢'.e., the
betel leaf; a pregnant saying, which
might be interpreted, “Nature has not
been niggardly, but man has done no-
thing here.”


Oeded Districts. 117
CEDED DISTRICTS.
Preliminary Information.
1. Bovxnuuns AND GENERAL ASPECT or ran DI‘VISION——SUB-DIVISIONS AND
CHIEF TOWNS.—-2. HISTORICAL sKETCH—CASTES-—EMPLOYMI-JNTB or nus
N xrrvns.
1. BOUNDARIES AND GENERAL Asrrzcr or THE DIvIs1oN—Sun-Divisions AND
CHIEF Towns.
This division, lying between lat. 13° 12' and 16° 19', and long. 75° 44', and
79° 48’, is bounded on the N. by the Tunga Bhadra river, which separates it from
the Ni;am’s dominions ; on the S. by the N. division of Arcot and art of
Maisfir ; on the W. by Maisfir; and on the E. by the Collectorates of Ne fir and
Guntfir. In shape it may be described as a triangle, having the base towards
Guntfir, and the other two sides running up to an apex a little beyond Ballari on
the N .W. The whole province forms part of the table land between the E. and
W. Ghats, and slopes from the W. and N .W. towards the S.E. ; the elevation of
Ballari being 1,600 feet above the sea, and the average elevation of the plain to
the E. of Ballari and Gutti 1,182 feet. Karmil again, to the N. of Kadapa, has
an elevation of about 900 feet, which sinks in the E. parts of Kadapa to about
500 feet.
The Geded Districts are, in the first place, divided into three Collectorates-—
Balléri, Kadapa, and Karnfil. Kamfil is not at present included in “the Regulation
Districts.” Ballari collectorate is bounded on the N. by the Tungu Bhadra river,
which separates it from the territory of the Nigam; on the E. by Kada a and
Karnfil ; on the S. by Maisfir; and on the W. by the Tunga Bhadra, divi ' g it
from the S. Maratha country. The general aspect of this region is bare and arid,
there being no forests and but few trees. The climate is ve Balléu-i is
thus subdivided (the districts are taken in the order from W. torE.) ---
Distance Direction of Distance
Tdluks or Districts. Chief Towns. from Chief Towns from
Bs.11s_ri. h'omBa.11Ari. Madras.
_ _ 11- M. 1?.
1.Ba11ar1 Ballén ,, ,, 306 6
2. Kompli Kompli 31 N.W.
3. Ha anhalli Har anhalli 86 S.W.
4. Ku 'gi Ku 'gi 50 S.\V.
5. Hoven Hadgalli Hoven Hadgalli 76 W.
6. Adhwani (Adoni) Adhwani 43 N.E.
7. Gfilliam A’l1ir 27 N.E.
8. Panchapélém Pattikouda 45 E.N.E.
9. Gutti Gutti 52 E.
10. Yadaki Yadaki 72 E.
11. Raidrug Raidrug 33 S.
12. Tafidputri Tafidputri 84 E.
13. Anantapur Anantapur 58 S.E.
14. Pennagonda Pennagonda 95 S.S.E.
15. Kodegonda Hindfipur 110 S.
16. Madagasiva Madagasiva ' 98 S. .
17. Dharmavaram Dharmavaram 77 S.E.


118 HISTORICAL SKETCH. Sect. II. Madras.
2. KADAPA.
Túluks or Districts. Chief Towns. r.'. "#"
M. F. M. P.
1. Jammalmadugu Jammalmadugu 42
2. Duvair Poddatür 30
3. Koilgunta Koilgunta 67
4. Kamalapur Kamalapur 14
5. Channur Kadapa ** 166
6. Sidhávat Sidhavat 10
7. Pulivendala Kadiri 50
8. Guramkonda Wailpád 70
9. Ráchoti Ráchoti 35
10. Chitwól Chitwél 46
11. Badwél Badwél 37 198 4
12. Madanpalli Madanpalli 87
13. Kambam. Kambam. 92 2 261 7
14. Dupăd Markapur 112
The direction here taken is from W. to E., and afterwards to the N.E.
- 3. KARNúL.
Taluks or Districts. Chief Towns. fr!'u. Pi":"
1. Châgalmarri Châgalmarri 85
2. Sirwél Sirwél 56
3. Nandiál Nandiál 44
4. Pániam Pániam 42
5. Dhone Ramalakóta 20
6. Guduir Kalúr 1 290
7. Nandikotkür Nandikotkür 20
8. Atkür Atkfir 42
2.—HISTORICAL SKETCH-CASTEs—EMPLOYMENT of THE NATIVEs.
About the year 1515, A.D., in the reign of Krishna Rai, of Vijayanagar, a
chief named Timmapa came from the Konkan to the Tunga Bhadra river, and
there settled. Krishna Rai bestowed on him the taluks of Ballári, Kargod,
Takkalkót, and Handé Anantapur; and Timmapa chose Ballári for his residence
and built a small fort there, which was enlarged and strengthened by his son
Rangappa, who assumed the title of Naik. In 1559 Rangappa died, and was
succeeded by Deopa. In 1564, after the kingdom of Vijayanagar had been
overthrown £, the Muhammadan kings of the Dakhan, at the battle of Tellikóta,
Ballári became tributary to Vijayapur. It had before paid a tribute of 1,000
rupees yearly to Vijayanagar. ": dying in 1600 was succeeded by his son
Hanampa, the first of the line who called himself Raja. He defeated the
descendant of the Vijayanagar Rājās in the plain of Kompli. In 1650, he died
and was succeeded by # brother Chikka Ramappa, who defeated Venkat Rái of
Vijayanagar, and £ in 1681 was succeeded by his son Hanappa. Hana
carried on the feud with the Rājās of Vijayanagar, and died about 1700. His
son Râmappa took the chief of Anantapur prisoner, and carried him with all
his family to Ballári. He died in 1716, and was succeeded by his son Hanampa,
who died in 1750 without issue, and was succeeded by his adopted son Dúdappa.
In 1769, Safdar Jang and M. Bussy were despatched by Basālat Jang from
Haidarābād to take Ballari. While before the place they were attacked by Haidar
'Ali and defeated, and Dúdappa, who had been a spectator of the battle, escaped
by night from the fort with all his women and treasure, and fled to Sholapur.


Oeded Districts. HISTORICAL SKETCH. 119
Ballfui was now strongly fortified by Haidar, and remained in his possession and
in that of Tipii his son till 1792, when by the treaty of Seringapatam it was
ceded to the Ni_z_am. On the 12th of Oct., 1800, it was made over with Kadapa
to the British for the support of the auxiliary force which they engaged to
maintain and ofiicer for the Nigam. Sir T. (then Major Munro was the first
Collector, and held the appointment nearly 8 years. e found the country
swarming with freebooters, and terribly wasted by armies, which, incessantly
marching through those parts, had left scarce a tree to be seen. He restored
order, established the Ryotwar revenue settlement, and did much to improve the
province; and afterwards,'when Governor of the Presidency, unwillin to uit
ndia without once more visiting the scene of his labors, proceeded to t e Ce ed
Districts, was seized with cholera, died at Patti Konda on the 6th July, 1827,
and was buried at Gutti. Among the public works executed in his time was the
road from Kadapa to Ballari, planted on both sides with trees, chiefly pipal and
nim. As it runs chiefly through black cotton soil, it is hardly passable in the
rains; but metal bein found at no great depth, this important road will shortly
be so improved as to lie practicable at all seasons. There are excellent banglas
at the different stations.
Kadapa was formerly held by the Chiefs of Chitwél, under the Rajas of
Vijayanagar. In 1589 it was taken by Muhammad Kuli Kutb Shah, king of
Golkonda. When Mir J umlah, Vazir of Golkonda, made his expedition into the
Balaghat and Karnatak, he left Neknam Khan, in charge of Ohinniir Taluk.
This nobleman annexed the districts of Gandikét, Sidhavat, Badwél, Kambam,
and Jammalmadugu, and founded a Muhammadan city at Kadapa, on the site
where Mfr Jumlah’s army enoamped. It was first called N eknamabad, but soon
took the name of the ancient Hindu town adjoining, i.e., Kadapa Kovil. In
1750 the Nfiiwab of Kadapa was a party to the assassination of the Nigam Nagir
Jang, when preparin for action with the French near Jinji. In 1779 Haidar
’Ali took Kadapa, an carried Halfm Ifiian, the Niiwab, to Seringapatam, where
it is su posed he was put to death. Kadapa was ceded in 1792 to the Nigam,
and by im to the British in 1800, together with Ballari.
Karnall, also called Kammir Nagar, was governed by an Afghan family, under
the Kings of Vijayapur. We have no information as to when or by whom it was
originally founded. In 1651 Aurangzib conferred the district on Qiizr Quin,
from whom the late N iiwéb was lineally descended. Qizr Khan was murdered
by his son Dafid, who was killed in battle in 1715, and his body dra ged at the
tail of an elephant round the city of Burhanpur. His brothers, Ibra im Elan
and ’Ali IQ1an, succeeded him in the N iiwabship of Karnfil, and governed jointly
for 6 ears. Ibrahim Iflien, the son of ’Alf, succeeded, and rebuilt and enlarged
the ort. After ruling 14 years, he was succeeded b his son, Alif Khan, who
governed 17 years, and was succeeded by his son, immat Bahadur, who, in
1750, accompanied N agir J ang, the Nigam, into the Karnatak, and trcacherously
slew him at the battle of J inji in that year. Wilks says that Nagir J an , who
was mounted on an elephant, was in the act of saluting the Niiwab of Kgiida ,
who was similarly mounted, when two carbine shots were fired from the hau 3
in which the Niiwab of Kadapa was seated, and mortally wounded Nagir Jan .
These shots were fired, it is supposed, by Himmat Qan. In 1752, a bloogy
revenge was taken for this treason, when Salabat J ang, brother of Nazlr, stormed
the Fort of Karniil, and put all the garrison and most of the inhabitants of the
town to the sword. Munawir Qian, son of Himmat, now succeeded, and, in
1790, sent a party of horse, under his third son, Alif K_han, to join Lord Com-
wallis, at Seringapatam. Shortly after, Munawir died, and Alif K_hén—his two
elder brothers being absent-—seized Karnul. In 1800, the rights of soverei ty
were transferred to the British, and Alif Iflian paid regularly to them his t1'i€l1lt6
of 100,000 rupees until his death in 1815. Miigaflar I_(lian, second son of Alif,


120 HISTORICAL sxsrcn. Sect. II. Madras.
now seized the Fort and attempted to displace his elder brother Munéwir, but a
force under Colonel Mariott marched against him from Ballfiri, and he surrendered.
Munawir reigned until 1823, and died much re rctted as a just and lenient ruler.
Mugaflar l\'_h6n would now have been installe but while on his way to assume
the Nfiwabshi with Mr. Campbell, Collector of Ballari, he ut his wifeto death
at Adoni. L this murder was committed within the ompany’s territory,
Mugatfar Khan was imprisoned for life in the hill fort of Ballari, where he still
is. Qhulam Rasiil I_(h-fin, a son of Alif Khan by a N ach girl, though not the
eldest surviving, was now raised to the N iiwabship. He owed this to his having
been a. favorite of his father, who had applied to the Governor General to recog-
nise him as his successor. In 1839, G_hulam Rasfil incurred the suspicions of the
English Government, as he was believed to have received emissaries from the
Amirs of Sindh, and was known to have made a vast collection of warlike stores.
On bein called upon for an explanation, he refused to give it, and a force marched
against im from Ballari. The troops pre ared to attack Karniil, on which the
Niiwab quitted the fort with a body of ohilla mercenaries; and being sum-
moned to surrender, he made a furious charge on the English force, but was
taken prisoner and his Rohillas were cut to pieces. He was then sent prisoner to
T1-ichinfipalli, and having visited the Mission Chapel more than once, a re rt
got abroad that he was about to embrace Christianity. As he was coming om
the chapel on one occasion, he was assassinated by a retainer, but whether out of
private revenge, or from religious feelin , cannot be known with certainty. The
murderer was hanged, and the N1iwab’s ody was sent to Karmil for interment.
It was subsequently ascertained that the Nfiwhb had no intention of rebelling
against the English; that he was fond of military display, and that his minister,
hamdar gen encouraged the fancy, as his family were enriched by the contracts.
Most of the guns were not powder proof, and the shot were too large for use.
Those who have dispassionately studied the history of similar occurrences in
Anglo-Indian history, will come to the conclusion that it was considered conve-
nient to remove the Nfiwab, and that those who were commissioned to deal with
him were careful not to be too explanatory.
In the latter half of 1853 and the earl part of the following year, Balléiri was
visited by a great scarcity (owing to the ailure of the ordinary monsoon), which
threatened to devastate the district. Pestilence, the usual attendant of famine,
broke out among the population and cattle. Prices rose high, and such was the
distress prevailing throughout the country that hundreds fled from their homes to
the sea coast. Cattle were found dead in numbers on every road; and, owing to
the want of forage and water, it was practically impossible to convey food into
the district. It was known that much grain remained in the larger towns and
villages, but the exorbitance of the rices rendered it inaccessible to the r,
except by the commission of gang ro beries, which soon became ve prev ent.
Under these circumstances, there remained no alternative to save the istriet from
ruin but for Government to inteppose its aid,_ which was promptly and cheer-
fully done, by at once undertaking e construction of several artenal roads. The
lines selected at first were—
1. That from Ballari to Adoni aid Aulfir ................... .. 60 miles.
2. That from Balléri to Karnfil viii the same village . . . . . .. 90 ,
But the work on them being insuflicient for the employment of the numbers that
were obliged to resort to la or to save themselves from starvation, other additional
lines were undertaken. These were—-


From Adoni to Gutti ........................ .... 45 miles.
,, Ditto to Kudamiir towards Karnifll .. .. .. 32 ,,
,, Karnfil to Ananta ur ................ 64 ,,
,, Ballari to Kodfir y Honawar .. 105 ,,
,, Ditto to Anantapur and Diampéta... 85 ,,


_~
Oaclezl Distr-iots. CAS'l‘ES—-E‘.\IPLOYMEN'1‘S or rrrr: NATIVES. 121
_ making in all upwards of 450 miles. It was estimated that a number of 118,800
kulis (coolics) would find employment daily on all the above roads at a cost of
3,53,925 rupees monthly; but the actual numbers employed, it is believed, fell con-
siderably short of the above. The expenditure, for which bills have been submitted
to Government, exceeds 13 lakhs of rupees, or £130,000 ; and a good portion of all
the roads has been operated u on, though the exact extent is as yet not re orted.
Similar distress prevailed in t e other inland districts, but to a much more imited
extent than at Ballari.
It may fairly be said that out of the 450 miles thus roughly undertaken by
untaught and debilitated men, women, and children, more than 300 miles have been
completed and metaled, so as to be a permanent acquisition to the district; 120
miles require partial assistance to complete them, and perhaps thirty miles may be
so far abandoned that nothing more Will be undertaken by Government.
This gratifying result is very much to be attributed to the admirable arrange-
ments of the Collector and the organization of the Civil Engineer; and the
Government so fully appreciate the value of the lines already executed, that
an annual allowance of 10,000 rupees has been sanctioned for their maintenance,
and estimates have been ordered for constructing masonry bridges throughout.
The .Pa_tha'ns of Karnfil and Kada a are genuine representatives of the old
Muhammadan Warriors, who conquere Hindustan. They are brave, courteous,
and cruel; fond of horsemanship, cockfighting, and ram fights, and despise other
pursuits as effeminate. They would, no doubt, make good irre lar cavalry, but
could never be de ended upon, in India at least, as they have abigoted hatred of
all who are not foillowers of Islam. Beyond the frontiers, in places where they
could not easily regain their own country, they might be usefully employed.
The Hindu castes present nothing remarkable.


122
Sect. II.
ROUTE 25.-—MADRAS T0 BALLABL
ROUTE 25.
anonns TO BALLXRI,
(NUGGERY), KAIQAPA (connnmn),
AND 0n'r'r1 (onocrry). 316 M. 6 F.
MILITARY AUTHORITY-—TO Bound-
ary after Karkambadi: Oflicer com-
manding Centre Division-—Madras.
Thence to Ballini: Oificer commanding
Ccdcd Districts—Ballu'r1'.
Crvu. Au'rn0n1'rY—To Pfindfir after
Kékalfir: Collector of Cl1enga1pat_t—
1’allz'karm'. Thence to Boundary after
Karkambadi: Collector of N. Arcot—
Ohitthr. Thence to Boundary after
Gundahir: Collector of Kac_lapa—I(a-
BY Nficnni






dapa. Thence to Ballériz Collector of
Balliui—Balla'ri.
rmcns. suozs.
m.1='. M. F.
PUNAMALLY, b. & t. o.
(See Route 6) ...... .. 12 4 12 4
Palté Chattram .... .. .. 2 4
rd. to Arcot ..... .. .. 0 2
Trirnnchi .................. .. 1 0
>< n. to Weflawaid Chat-
tram ..................... .. 1 7
KORATUR (new Chat-
tram) b ............ .. .. 2 4 8 1
rd. to Pemmbf1kam.. 0 6};
>< Madras r. 1 fur. wi eto
Tiru-fir ................. .. 2 3;
><2n. to KA’KALU’R... 2 7 6 1
Trivelllir begins, t.a ..... .. 1 6
Ditto ends ................. .. 1 0
(a) Tripatfir, 6. and t. 0 .. 1 4
>< 2 n. to Pimdfir ........ .. 2 2
x Kortilli r. 220 yds. wide
to K;-ighnapnr ........ .. 1 7
><n. to RA’MANJE’RI... 3 2 11 5
Ksinuka Chattram, b .... .. 3 1
><n. t0A1k&du ..... .. 2 2
N élgarfizupalli... 0 6
xn. to Il1at1ir..... 2 2
Venkammapuram 1 7
NELLATUR, b. ....... .. 1 4 11 6
P0(1fiI.. ............ . .. .... .. 2 4
>< n. to Bugé Agrahfiram 2 0
X n. to NA ari .......... .. 3 0
NA’GARI' E'TA, b.&t.o. 1 0 8 4
Pass ends ................. 2 6
Parameshweramangalam 2 0
Rfimkflshnapurampéta 0 6
PU'TU’R, b. ............. .. 2 5 8 1
x 2 n. to Agrahflram 2 0

PLACES.
Tédhku ...................... ..
x n. and the Woramalli
Pass to WORAMALLL
PE'T, b. ................ ..
x 4 n. to Géznlamundyam
>< Suwarnamukhi r. 140 yds.
wide to Yellamandyam .
>< 7 n. to Rénukunda. .... ..
(b) KARKAMBADI, 6. &
t. 0. (near this is Tri-
pettl) _
>< 2 n. to Balrfigip
>< 2 n. to Mémandfir .... ..
>< 5 n. to Bound ....... ..
BA’LA’PALLI, b .......... ..
>< n. to the Kuruwfin Pass,
6 f. lon ................ ..
x 2 n. to ghettignntahu...
x 3 n. to Kétapalli Agra-
héram ................... ..
>< n. to KODUR, b ...... ..
>< 2 n. to Chenchu Amma
Chattram ................ ..
>< _Gundel r. to Anantar&-
Jupeta .............. . . .
>< 3 n. to Mangammapeta
Konimbapalli ............. ..
Chillampéta.... . >< 3 n. to WORAMPAZDU
Reddipallipéta ............. ..
x n. to Apparéjupéta .... ..
>< n. to Pulampéta, b ..... ..
>< n. to Venkatar€1mé.r&ju-
éta .... .................. ..
U KUR Rfxjampéta Mannfir ...... ..
Yellak6ta.....
>< n. to Yerrapall .
x n. to Gundalfir .......... ..
>< Sees. r. 3% fur. wide to
NANDALUR, b. >< 2 n. to Mallapéta ....... ..
>< 3 n. to Mangam ta.....
>< 2 n. to Cherlorf ' (0) WONTIME TA, b....
>< n. to Chimmanapalli....
BA’KERAPE’TA
X 2 n. to Kannawoypalli...
x 3 n. to Chillfillékll ...... ..
(d) KADAPA beginsb.&p.0.
Kadapa ends ................ . .
>< 2 n. to Bassamipal1i.....


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3
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Madras. noun: 25.—MADRAS T0 B.u.L.iRI—rn1PArI'In.. 123
rnscrs. smons. Pmors. srmss.
M. r. M. r. M. r. M. r.
>< 3 n. to Pirzadapéta .... .. 5 6 Joaladarasi ................ .. 5 7
\Vulh’u- ...................... .. 1 1 PARAMADAVENHAL-
(e) >< n. to TA’PE'TA .... .. 1 5 11 1 LI,b ...................... .. 3 7 13 1
x Papaghni (Paupdgny) r. Huggadi (Huggery) r. to
650 yds.w1de to ppya- Budeyalu ................ .. 1 1
palli, b .................... .. 2 2 Amarapuram ...... .. 1 5
Sadapuralla ................ .. 2 1 Chikka Bavenhalli. 0 6
x 3 n. to Pandalapalli..... 3 1 Bavenhalli... . 0 4}
x Pia?’ r. 100 ds. broad Bissanhalli .................. .. 1 2
to ' IPPAL R ........ .. 1 2 8 6 (9) BALLA’RI FORT, E.
X 2 1|. to Ycrragunta ..... .. 3 2 gate . ..................... .. 3 7 9 1%
>< 2 n. to Nirjevi .......... .. 2 5 ———
x 2 n. to CHILLAM- 316 6
KUR, 6. ................ .. 2 1 8 0 This route, now being greatly im-
>< 4 n. to Kétapalli. 3 0 roved, is one of the great trunk roads
Timmapuram ............... .. 1 2 om Madras, leading up into the Ceded
>< 3 n. to Mumareddipalli 2 6 Districts, a province which produces
x 2 n. to YAIMA\VE- much cotton, and possesses a rich black
RAM ........... .. 1 3 8 3 soil of the highest fertility. As this
Chettiwarpalli, b . . . . . . . . .. 5 7 road avoids the lofty chain of hills which
x 2 n. to Tallapalli ....... .. 3 1 everywhere encircles Maisfir, and as the
>< 2 n. to GUN DALUR... 2 5 11 5 Ceded Districts, though of considerable
x Siri or Sir, r. 3} f. wide elevation above the sea, are 1,000 feet
and n. to Chaiwotipalli. 1 4 lower than the said province, the com-
Gangapuram ............. .. 1 4 munication by this route with the Bom-
x n. to Talapodutfir, 3 4 bay Presidency, especially for the line
Boundary ................... .. 2 2 of rail, seems preferable to that by
BONDALDINNI... 0 5 9 3 Bengahir.
x 3 n. to Yirapuram .. 2 5 A good road, though sandy in some
x 3 n. to Kotapalli ....... .. 3 6 places, leads from Punamalli, through
Tarpatri, b ............. .. .. 1 6 the small villages of Koratfir and Ka-
Penniir, r. r. 0 4 kalfir, to Tripaiizr.
Ditto, Z. b ........ .. 0 3 (a) Tripatzir prop_Tiru-paii-fir, from
SU'KALU'R 2 3 11 3 the Tamil wor s ’l'iru, “divine,” pati,
Ycggadfir ................... .. 3 0 “1ord,” tr, “town”), is the first place
>< 6 n. to VAIMALPA’DU 7 1 10 1 of any interest. For the last 5 miles
>< 3 n. to Ryalcheru, 4 1 the Madras river runs close to the
x 4 n. to Yirai alli. .. 6 4 road. Tripatfir was once a place of
JA_KALOHERll.... 1 2 11 7 some importance as a depot for pro-
>< n. to Tondapadu.... .. 1 4 visions, and was defended by a fort, not,
Hospéta ............ ...... .. 3 4 however, of much strength. On the
(f) GUTTI centre, b. &t. o. 2 2 7 2 22nd of August, 1781, Sir Eyre Coote
>< 3 n. to Kojaipalla ...... .. 3 0 took it from Haidar ’Ali. It was then
x n. to Yerrat1n1maryen- garrisoned by 1,500 men, who surren-
cheru ..................... .. 3 0 cred after three days’ eannonade; and,
Patakochern, b ............ .. 4 0 upon the English general oiiering to
>< n. to AMYNAPALLI... 1 4 11 4 exchange them for an equal number of
Timmapuram ............... .. 3 6 English prisoners, Haidar re lied,
>< n. to GUNDUKAL, b. 4 3 8 1 “These men are faithless; they ow
>< n. to Pinchella adu .... .. 7 3 they dare not ap roach me; they are
>< oz. to GADDA AL, b... 3 1 10 4 your prisoners, an I advise you to put
X a deep n. twice to every one of them to death with all
3 3

Doanakal ..... ......... .. speed." Four days afterwards, Sir


124
Sect. II.
noun: 25.—ms1>ass TO Bsr.r..in1—xsn1mMBAnI.
Eyre Coote, advancin from Tripatfir,
fought a drawn batte with Haidar,
almost on the same ground on which
Baillie's arm was destroyed the preced-
ing year. he English army, 11,000
stron , lost 421 men, and retired again
to Tnpatur, after burvin the bones of
those who fell under Ba lie, as well as
their own dead. The Kortilli river
svritten also, by Wilks, Cortelair and
ortelaur, and 1n the Tri onometrical
map, Cortcliar, but prop. Ii%datal-a'ru—-
dru signifying “ river” in Tamil , rises
near Arcot, and is joined by the agari
river close to the place where it is crossed
on this road, about 4 m. from Tripatiir.
It disembo ues at Enniir, 9 m. N. of
Madras. n August it sinks, but is
liable to be swollen by rains which fall
in the hills. By a sudden rise of this
kind Colonel Baillie was detained on its
N . bank 11 da ‘s, and this delay was one
main cause o his subsequent disaster.
Orders have lately been issued for the
construction of a permanent masonry
bridge across this stream.
The‘ road as far as Nfigari is very
sandy, and runs beside the river of that
name. Nellatrlr is a considerable vil-
lage ; Ndgari itself a town of some size.
Hence the road turns almost direct
N. to Karkdmbadi (Circumbaddyz), and
about one mile from Nagari, egins
to ascend a pass through the Ghats.
Again, after the large vifiage of Putfir,
the \Voramalli Pass is ascended. This
Pass is easy of ascent and descent; the
hills around are covered with a thick
bamboo jungle, but, beyond, the country
is richl cultivated. TVoramalZ1'_ne't is a
large ace. The Suwarnamukhf river,
also a out to be bridged, which is crossed
between this and the next stage, has its
name from Skr., suvdrna, “golden,”
mukham, “mouth." The stream rises
in lat. 18° 26', long. 79° 11’, and, after
a course of 100 miles, falls into the sea
in lat. 14° 8’, long. 80° 11’.
(b) Karkambadi is a good sized vil-
lage with a fort. W. of this, at the
distance of about 10 miles, is the temple
of Tripetti (prop. fllirupati : Tamil, iiru,
“holy,” pati, “ lord," “holy lord” ,
the most celebrated Hindu temple .
1*" the Krishna. It stands in lat. 13°

46', long. 79" 24', and is 80 miles N.W.
of Madras. The pagoda is placed in an
elevated hollow or basin, enclosed by a
circular crest of hills, the sacred pre-
cincts of which are said never to have
been profaned b Christian or Muham-
madan feet, while, it is added, that even
the exterior of the temple has never been
beheld but by a genuine Hindu. To
obtain this immunity from desecration,
large sums have been paid to Govern-
ment, the fee in 1758 amounting to no
less than £30,000. An incarnation of
Vishnu is worshipped here, called, in
Skr., Venkat-esha; in the Karnatak,
Trz'pati,- in the Telugu country, Venkat-
Rdma Govinda ; in Gujarat, Thdkur ,'
and in Marathi, Ba'la_’;'i. The temple is
built of stone, covered with plates of
gilt copper, and has an extensive dis-
trict appended to it for its support.
Crowds of pilgrims resort to it from all
parts of India, especially from Guja-
rat, and (pour in offerings of goods,
grain, ol , jewels, etc. These gifts,
which ormerly yielded a surplus re-
venue to Government, maintam seve-
ral thousand priests and ministers, and
defray all the expenses of the wor-
ship, which is herc conducted on a
magnificent scale. The British Govern-
ment at one time, before its connection
with the native religion was abolished,
realized from the profits of this tem le
from £15,000 to £20,000 a year. e
deity here worshipped is thought to pre-
side in a. special manner over commerce,
and the merchants and shopkeepers of
Gujarat are accustomed to offer a per-
centage of their gains to this temple
annually. The god is said in this m-
carnation to have been attended by two
of his wives, Lakshmi and Satyabh ama,
and they are generally represented with
him. His name of Venkat-esha, “Lord
of difiiculties,” probably refers to the
legend of his restoring plenty to the
Yadavas b the recovery of a certain
'ewel ealle Sumantika, which is said to
ave belonged to his wife Satyabhama’s
father. It is remarkable that the earliest
recorded outbreak of cholera took place
at Tripetti in 1772. It is mentioned in
the journals of the missionaries of that
date (Allen's India, Ancient and Modem,


_~
Madras.
p. 530). The great festival was held
that year in September, and half of the
vast concourse of pilgrims were swept
away.
The road from Karkambadi to Ba'Za'-
palli, a much lar er place, is but indif-
ferent, and for t e next 6 m. becomes
still worse; but these difliculties are now
in course of removal. It then improves
a little, passing through a hill and
'ungly country to Kodiir, a sma vil-
age; after which it again becomes bad.
Wwampddu has about 100 houses. The
nalas to be crossed in this stage are
troublesome and diflicult. Ud/car is a
fine village on high ground; the road
after passing it becomes very bad and
stony. Nandalwir, with about 500 houses,
is the Kagbah, or principal town of the
district. The road here is bad and
ston .
(oi Wontimetta is a considerable town,
muc larger than Nandaliir. About 6
m. from it, on the N. bank of the Pen-
nar, is the town of Sidhdvat (Sidhout)
(prop. Siddha'vam; Skr. Siddlm, “Saint,”
vatam, “a -tree,” i.s. the Ficus In-
dica, under w ich the Saint dwelt), once
the head quarters of the European civil
establishment. The Pathan Chief of
Kada a fled here in 1779, when at-
tacke by Haidar, but was compelled to
surrender, and was sent prisoner to Se-
ringapatam. The Maisiir prince, however,
was nearly losing his life from the sudden
attack of 80 Afghan prisoners, and owed
his escape to his great coolness and
presence of mind. hese Afghans, men
of prodigious strength and coura e, had
refused to surrender their swor , and
Haidar, hoping to enlist them in his
own service, had suffered them to retain
their weapons, thou h he took care to
have them watched y a strong guard.
At night, however, the rose on the
soldiers who were guar ing them, and
cut them to ieces, while two of their
number force their way into Haidar's
tent. Hearing the tumult, Haidar
covered the long pillow of his bed with
a. quilt, and with his sword cut a pas-
sage for himself through the tent, and
escaped to the next battalion. Mean-
time, one of the Af hans dealt a furious
blow at the bed, an was thunder-struck
nouns 25.—1\IADRAS TO BALLABI—KAI_)APA.

125
at finding that his intended victim had
escaped. \Vhile he stood in amazement,
a soldier of Haidar's, who was sleeping
in the corner of the tent, roused by the
noise, sprang up, and transfixed the in-
truder with a spear, and on the second
Afghan advancing, slew him also. The
rest of the band were then overpowered.
Some had their hands and feet lopped
off, and were then thrown to die on the
public roads, while others were dragged
about the camp tied to the feet of ele-
phants. One of these latter, after he
had been unfastened, to all a pearance,
dead, unexpectedly recovere<£ and was
seen, twenty years afterwards, by Sir
Barry Close, a powerful, healthy-look-
ing horseman.
Bdkerapéta is a village of moderate
size. Before reaching it an extensive
plain is passed.
(d) Kaz_lapa.--Ka¢_1apa (Cuddapah)
signifies in Telu “a doorway," and
here means “t e gate of Tripetti,”
Kadapa being on the way to that sacred
spot. The word is written Kurpa by
\Vilks, and wrongly derived by Hamil-
ton from the Skr. k_r1'pa', “ mercy." It is
a large town, a civil and military station,
and the capital of a Collectorate which
has a population of 1,451,921 inhabit-
ants.
The Uantonment in lat. 14° 28', long.
78° 52’, is situated on a gentle declivity,
507 ft. above the sea, and nearly in the
centre of the Collectorate. It is bounded
on the E. by the Bo awanka river (called
in the Trig. map, oogoo, but properly
Bogga.-canka : bogga, “ a fountain,”
vanka, “a 1ivulet,”) and over which
a bridge has just been completed. This
stream separates it from the town of
Kadapa, whence it is distant about 3
miles; on the W. it is bounded by
an extensive and open plain, stretch-
ing with little interru tion to Gutti;
on the N. by the Ba lari road, some
cultivated ground, and a lar e tank ;
and on the S. by a ro on its
left flank, and b cultivated ground.
There are two arraeks for Euro-
peans, and spacious lines for native
infantry, of which there are generally
about 1000 men at this station. The
climate is excessively hot and dry. The


126
Sect. II.
ROUTE 25-—~MADBA5 TO BALLriRI—-GUTTI.
wind blows enerally from S.W. to W.
and N .W. om March to Oct., and
duri the rest of the year from N .E.
to S. . In Jan. and Feb. it often
shifts from N.E. to S.W., W., and
N .W., and is usually stron est in March
and April. Showers fall rom April to
November, at first attended with severe
thunder-storms. March, April, May,
and June are the hottest months; Nov.,
Dec., and Jan. the coolest. The greatest
fall of rain is generally in Sept. and
Oct. Owin to the great heat, the
climate is un avourable to the European
constitution, and fevers in particular are
rife from the end of June to October.
During the hot season the high
table land of Madanapalli (l\ludden-
pilly) and adjoining range of hills, 56
miles to the S.\V., form an agreeable
retreat from Kada a, and exhibit a de-
lightful contrast oth in climate and
scenery. The temperature on these hills
seldom exceeds 87° during the day, and
the nights are refreshingly cool, while
the place abounds in fruitful gardens,
shady clusters of trees, and green valleys.
The gardens produce grapes both green
and purple, as well as peaches, straw-
berries, apples, and guavas. _ The plain
of Kaqlapa, on the contrary, 1s encircled
by mountains, which add to the sultri-
ness of the atmos here. Those to the
WI, being more t an 30 miles distant,
do not so much affect it, but those on
the N.E. and E. being within from 3 to
8 miles, have the most injurious influ-
ence. These latter are the N alla Malla
and the Lanka Malia ranges, and turn
beyond Kadapa in a S.E. direction to_-
wards the famous hill-shrine of Tripetti.
Their formation is clay slate, sand-
stone, quartz rock, silieious and arena-
ceous schist, with a few hills of blue and
grey limestone. The base of these rocks
IS granite. To the W. the Sondar or
Sandfir and Kampli ranges have a some-
what arallel direction. Ablue limestone,
imbe din iron pyrites, occupies alarge
portion o the adapa plain, where 1t
occurs in beds dipping generally at an
angle of 5° to the E. Granite is found
in clustered and dome shaped masses,
often crowned with tors and logging-
stones. Near Chinnfir, about 7 miles

from the town of Kada a, on both banks
of the Pennar river, w 'ch here washes
the base of a hilly range, whose reatest
elevation is about 1000 ft., are t e once
famous diamond mines. These mines
are surrounded by cultivated fields, and
have the ap earance of hea s of stones,
and pits haf filled with ru bish. The
mines are said to have been worked for
several centuries, and sometimes stones
of a considerable size were found. They
are always met with either in alluvial
soil or rocks of the latest formation.
Heyne thinks they are by no means yet
exhausted . Hence, and from the vicini
of Gutti, were brought the celebrated
Golkonda diamonds; the province of
Golkonda itself not producing any.
Kada a was for many years the capital
of an intiiapendent Pathan state, and many
old Pathan families still reside there, who
speak the Hindustani dialect with re-
markable purity; but the prevailing lan-
guage is Telugu. The principal products
of the surrounding country are indigo
and cotton.
(e) Tdpéta or Tdrpatri (vulg. Ta-
putla), is close on the Pa'pagIam' (Pau-
pugny) “ ilt-removing,” river, which
rises in aisiir, in lat. 13° 30', long.
77° 50’, and, after a course of 130 m.
flows near this place into the N.
Pennar. On the opposite bank to
Tapéta, and about 3 miles from it, is
the town of Kamalapur, capital of a
téluk, and a place of some importance.
The N. Penmir flows close to 1t on the
E. This river rises in Maisfir in lat. 13°
23', long. 77° 43', from a square stone
tank in the centre of the mined fort of
Ohandradrug, and after a course of 355
miles, falls into the Bay of Bengal in
lat. 14° 38’.
The remaining stations between Ka-
dapa and Gutti present nothing worthy
of remark. They are all unimportant
villages, with good and high ground
for encamping. The road runs through
a flat country, the black soil of which
becomes diflicult to cross in wet weather.
There is considerable cultivation. At
Jukalcheru (prop. Zaggula-cheuru) there
is a fort. ( hm f
(f) Gum‘ Ghoo is a p e 0 re-
markable strengthfy e first hear of it


Madras.
127
ROUTE 25.—-MADRAS T0 BALL.;B.I—]3ALL.iRI.
durin the reign of Aurangzib, when it
forme part of a small state held by
the predecessors of the Shahnfir family,
who were dispossessed in 1758 by the
Maratha artizan chief, Murari Rao.
It was en from this chieftain in
1776, by Haidar ’Alf, after a siege of
upwards of 9 months, and Murari Rae
was sent prisoner to Seringapatam, and
afterwards to Kabul Dru , where he
died. His family were a put to the
sword, by command of Tfpfi, in 1791.
The fort is composed of a number of
strong works, occupying the summits
of a circular cluster of rock hills eon-
nected with each other, an enclosing
a space of level ground forming the site
of the town, which is a proached from
the plain by two brea s or openin s,
forming fortified gateways to the S. .
and N.W., and by two footpaths across
the lower hills, communicating through
small sally-ports. An immense smooth
rock, rising from the N. limit of the
circle, and fortified by gradations sur-
mounted by 14 gatewa s, overlooks and
commands the whole o the other works,
and forms a citadel which famine or
treachery alone can reduce. When it
was taken by Haidar, the supply of
water had failed, and the garrison were
compelled by thirst to surrender them-
selves unconditionally. A small detach-
ment of Sipahis is kept at Gutti. Thence
to Handé Anantapur, a large town, and
formerly the capital of a race of petty
Hindu Rajas, is 31 m. 4 f., and, if
the traveller has abundance of time, he
may visit this place as a specimen of a
Hindu baronial residence. There is
also a tank worth of inspection; and it
is said by Wilks 5) to be the boun-
dary town l)€t\§V8911 thg ]l§3.1rl[$‘i,l‘185e lan-
es onthe .,an te e ,on
ii1u:gE.’, though in point of rligtu the
Kannadi or Kauai-ese is spoken in many
places E of it. The stages are from


Gutti:-— M. P-
Pfilnri ... ............. .......-... .... .. 12 7
Gurudinni .... .. .. 8 5
Handé Anantapur, b. & t. 0 ..... .. 10 0
The intermediate stations are mode-
rately-sized villages, with good encamp-
ing ground, excellent water, and supplies.
Handé Ammtapur (prop. Handé

Ammta-Para/m, “ The eternal city
of Handé,”) was anciently called
Ananta-Sagaram. It was built A.D.
1364, by Chikkapa Wadeyar, chief
minister of Bukka Rayulu, Raja of
Vijayana ar, or, in the vulgar cor-
ruption, eejanuggur. This Ohikappa
raised an emban ment so as to stop,
at Devarakonda, the river Pandu,
which rises in the Kambu-giriswarni
hills. To the lake thus formed he
made two outlets, at each of which
he built a village. The village on the
W. outlet he called after his lady,
Ammta Sdgaram, or “Ananta’s sea."
Some time after this, Chikkappa died.
The lake, owing to heavy rains, burst
its embankments, when Musalamma,
the seventh and youn est daughter-in-
law of Basi Reddi, a armer, who dwelt
at Bukka Raya Samudram, the village
at the E. outlet, was offered as a sacri-
fice, being built into the gap. In 1569
A.D., Anantapur, together with all the
surrounding districts and Balliiri, was
bestowed b the Raja of Vijayanagur
on Handé Hanumappa Nayudu, who is
said to have defeated the Muhammadan
kings of the Dakhan, and to have taken the
Nigam Shahi king prisoner, for which
services he was liberall rewarded. He
was originally chief o Sonnalapuram.
His grandson, Malakappa N ayudu, built
a palace at Anantapuram, and took u his
residence there, and thenceforward, fiom
his family name, it was called Hande-
Anantapuram. The descendants of this
family were afterwards mercilessly
hanged on hooks by Tipfi, near the
town. There is no place of im ortance
between Gutti and Ballari. he road
runs almost due \V. ; is good, and sup-
plies are plentiful.
(g) Balldri (erroneously derived by
some from the Skr. Bela, name of a
daemon, and ari, “ foe," “ Foe of
Bala,"—a name of Indra, but written
by Hamilton Valahari), in lat. 15° 8',
long. 76° 59', with a population, in
1836, of 30,426, is the capital of the
Collectorate of the same name, which,
with an area of 13,056 square miles, has
a population of 1,229,599. See .Preli-
minary Information “Coded istriets.”)
The face of the country in this Col-


128
Sect. II.
ROUTE 25.-MADRAS To BALL&RI-BALL&RI.
lectorate is generally flat and open, but
numerous isolated mountains of granite
are scattered over it, and it is intersected
by many lower ranges of hills. In the
hot season it has a sterile appearance,
from the absence of trees and all vege-
tation, but shortly after the rains fall in
June, the plains become converted into
vast fields of luxuriant grain. The open
country is a rich black cotton ground,
but near the hills it is of a deep red, and
is generally thickly covered with stones,
of the same geological character as the
rocks round. Granite is chiefly met with
about Ballari, Vijayanagar, Adoni and
Pálsamudram. The principal ranges of
hills are the Nalla Malla on the N.E.
frontier, and the Kämpli and Sandúr on
the W. A spur from the Sandür range
runs along the S. side of the canton-
ment of Ballári, and extends in an E.
direction to Budihál, 8 m. distant, where
it abruptly terminates. A high point in
this range is opposite to the fort of
Ballári, and within 4 m. of it, and is
called the Copper Mountain, the height
being 1,600 ft. above the plain, or
2,800 ft. above the sea. There is a small
space of table-land on the top, which
might be made available as a sanatarium.
The chief objections are the steepness
of the ascent, and the necessity of carry-
ing up supplies of all kinds, and even
water. About 15 years ago, as a £
of officers were preparing to ascend this
hill, a baggage tent pitched on the sum-
mit was struck by lightning, and two or
three men were £ The copper ore
here found is the green carbonate, in the
state of clay, lying below the crest of
thé S. épaulement of the hill. Excava-
tions are still to be seen, said to be the
remains of mines worked by order of
Haidar 'Ali, but abandoned in conse-
quence of the expense exceeding the
profit. Besides copper, haematitic iron
ore in large quantities is found, some of
which possesses magnetic properties.
The chief produce of this Collectorate
is cotton. On first preparing the ground
for this crop, and once in about every 10
or 12 years, the soil is turned up with a
large plough drawn by 12 or even 16
bullocks, and traversed several times in
different directions, until weeds and jun-
gle plants are entirely extirpated. A
# tree is then drawn over the ground
to break the clods thrown up by the
plough, and it is afterwards £
with an instrument called chinna kun-
daka, 3 ft. square, in order still further to
level and smooth the surface. In suc-
ceeding years the small plough, worked b
2 bullocks, and the harrow only are used.
The inhabitants are partly Telugu,
who worship Vishnu and burn their
dead, and partly Kanarese, who worship
Siva, and are chiefly of the Jangam
caste, wearing the Lingam or Phallus in
a silver box on their breast, or tied round
the arm: these bury their dead. There
are also considerable numbers of Ma-
rathas and Muhammadans: they are
tall, stout, and well-formed, and are
comfortably clad.
The Fort, or fortified rock, around
which the cantonment of Ballári is situ-
ated, is a bare granite hill, of an ob-
long, or rather a semi-elliptical form,
the longest diameter of which extends
from S. to N. It rises abruptly from
the plain to the height of 450 ft., and is
about 2 m. in circumference. Viewed
on its E. and S. sides, it presents a bold
and precipitous aspect, and appears to be
composed of a huge heap of loose frag-
ments, irregularly piled on one another;
but on its W. face it declines with a
gradual slope toward the plain, and ex-
hibits a smooth unbroken surface, indi-
cating that it was originally one entire
solid mass, and that, on its more ex-
posed aspects, it has been gradually de-
composed by the continued action of the
elements. At the distance of a few hun-
dred yards to the N. is a ' ridge of
bare rugged rocks of similar formation,
and a short distance to the E. are several
lesser elevations of the same character.
They are all of granite origin, and are
chiefly composed of felspar and ferru-
ginous hornblende, the former frequent-
ly presenting large rhomboidal prisms,
which strongly reflect the rays of light;
and the latter, disseminated through the
rock in black shining crystals and gra-
nules, giving to it, when recently frac-
tured, a dark grey colour, but which,
after exposure to the atmosphere, first
assumes a dull greenish hue, and after-


Madras.
129
RoUTE 26.—MADRAs To BALLKRI, BY RACHOTI.
wards a light rusty brown, apparently
from the readiness with which this spe-
cies of hornblende undergoes decompo-
sition.
The rock is defended by two distinct
lines of works, constituting the upper
and lower forts, both built of granite.
In the upper one, the summit of which
is flat and of considerable extent, stands
the citadel, which is reputed to be of
great £5. and might be rendered
impregnable. It affords, however, no
accommodation for troops, and is conse-
quently never occupied except by a
small guard. The cells for the prisoners
are built within it, and from their ele-
vation are at all times cool and pleasant.
Several tanks or cisterns have been
hollowed out in the rock, to hold rain
water. The lower fort, which is of
more recent construction, consists of low
turrets, connected together by curtains.
Its shape is quadrangular; it has a dry
ditch and covered way in front; and
surrounds the base of the rock from its
S.W., to its N.E. angle. It is half-a-
mile in diameter, and within it are the
barracks for the Queen's regiment, and
the Company's European Artillery, the
arsenal, the ordnance, and commissariat
stores, the Protestant church, and nu-
merous banglás for officers. The soil
is much # with saltpetre;
the wells within the fort are therefore
all brackish, and the water used by the
troops is brought from without.
On the S. side of the fort, about 100
yards from the rampart, is a large tank,
with a road running along its edge.
To the N., at the distance of about 200
yards, is a rocky hill of granite. On
the S.W. the ditch is widened, and
walled up at one end so as to form a
tank, which is filled by the rain from the
upper fort, and which descends from the
rock in cascades during heavy showers;
and on the E. is a wide £ COIn-
taining the burial-ground, beyond which
are the zila court, gaol, collector's kacheri
(cutcherry), and the houses of the princi-
pal European gentry. S.E. of the fort,
and below the embankment of the tank,
is the péta, or native town, in which
those who formerly inhabited the fort
now reside, having been removed out in
1816, at a considerable expense to Go-
vernment. At the head of the tank is
the bázár, and about half-a-mile off is
the cantonment, with the barracks and
officers' houses of the native troops.
The climate is characterised by the
extreme dryness of the air at all times.
The fall of rain is less than in any other
art of S. India; dews in general are
ight, and last but a short time, and
there are no heavy fogs. The wind
blows principally from the W. and
N.W. from March to November, and
# the # *: S.E. # £
all , and February. In the hot sea-
SOrl ' W. wind blows during the
night, and about sunset, occur oppres-
sive calms or lulls. The hottest part
of the year is from March till the end
of May, when the temperature is 93° in
the shade. In the cold season the ther-
mometer in the open air falls at times
below 50° in the morning, and rises to
100° at 2 p.m. in the sun. The glare
is at all times very great, from the
white sparkling nature of the ground,
which, as well as the roads, is composed
of the débris of granite rock; and hence
ophthalmia is very common. Thunder
storms occur from April to July, and
again in September and October, and a
year seldom passes without the electric
fluidinjuring buildings or persons within
the fort or cantonment.
ROUTE 26.
MADRAs To BALLARI, BY NAGARí,
RACHOTI AND BALAPANúR. 334 M.
MILITARY AUTHORITY – To Munu-
reddiwaripalli, after Mangalampéta:
Officer commanding Centre Division—
Madras. Thence to Ballàri: Officer
commanding Ceded Districts—Ballari.
CIVIL AUTHORITY-To Kortilli river
after Kåkalûr: Collector of Chengalpatt
—Pallikarni. Thence to Munureddi-
wāripalli: Collector of N. Arcot–
Chittir. Thence to Boundary after
Bālāpanir: Collector of Kadapa –
Kadapa. Thence to Ballari: Collector
of Ballāri-Ballari.
PLACES. STAGES.
M. F. M. F.
PUNAMALLI, b, & t. o... 124 12 4


130
Sect. II.
RouTE 26.-MADRAs to BALLART, BY RACHOTI.
PLACES.
M.
Koratár, b, .................. 8
Kákalûr........ 6
Rāmanjeri ..., . 11
Nellatür, b............. 11
Nágari, b. and t. o... 7
Kótapéta ........... • * * 0
Chattrawādah ...
Karambaido... - -
Naddiam .....................
Konetti Amma Agrahāram
(a) PALLIPAT.............
Rd. to Arcot, left............
x Kortillir. 440 yds. wide
to Chokamaddagu........
Kondapalli............
Sulakallu.....................
(b) x 6 n. to TYUR ......
x 2 n. to Kannagapuram .
Rd. to Chittúr, left.. - -
Kammampalli...............
Gudiwánipalli...............
Goralgundapalli............
PENNAMUR...............
Rassamanpalli.....
Udahalli.....................
Rudriagâripalli..............
WUDALWALAPALLI...
Mallyampalli................
Rd. to Chittúr, left .........
x n. to Dámalcheri.........
x Punér. to Mogralpéta ..
Tellakondapalli..............
x Puné r. twice to MAN-
GALAMPETA..........
x Puné r. to Râmareddi-
palli........................
Pulicherlah ..................
Munureddiwáripalli........
Yellawaripalli...............
Bolreddipalli.... •-
(e) PrLER (Tripetti is
near) •
x Pinchi r, to Sonapara-
lapalli.......................
Raghupalli. -
Kammapalli..
Kótapatti.....
Surkháipéta. - -
Agrahāram, ..................
# GUNDLUR (Gurram
STAGES.
10 7
10 4
10 4
13 1
14 4
:|5|
Konda is near this)......
Mahal.........................
x Bahu r. to Kalkatta.....
13 0
PLACES.
x Talliáwä r. to Boiwāri-
alli,........................
Trimmareddipalli............
RAJAWARIPALLI.. ...
Daipatla.......................
Chambargarh .. -
Bolreddipalli..
x n. to Golapalli
Kammapalli .....
Mittawārlápalli..............
RACHOTI, b. and t. o.....
x Mandawa r. to Másapéta
Rd. to Kadapa...............
x 3 n. to Tătăreddipalli...
x n. to Bandahalli.........
x Maddiál n. and Ráil-
chaiwu n. to Pedda Gár-
lapalli......................
LIKIREDDIPALLI......
Kuruvireddipalli............
Ganalanutlaválápalli......
x small Ghât and n to
Rámanapalli ............
Bodibandapalli - - -
Vangamartarapalli
Gowindappapalli, SURU-
PU AGRAHARAM ...
Daivaragudupalli...... •- - - -
Chakrapéta ...,
Wopalnidupalli ............
X £ alwoy to Sá-
malwalápalli ............
x Pápaghnir, to Kumba-
Warpalll ..................
WAIMPALLI......
x n. to Nandipalli
x 2 n. to Tátimágálápalli
x 2 n. to Sákaleru .........
x 2 n. to GOLALGUDUR
x n. to Chintallagutar...
x 2 n. to Ulimilla .........
x 4 n. to Rāyalapuram ...
x4 n. to BALAPANUR...
x n, to Boundary .........
Angalammagudar .........
Agrahāram...................
x 3 n. to Simmâdripalli...
x 2 n. to Pātapalli........ •
Krishnapuram...............
Pátapéta .........
YELLANUR ...
Chiträwati r. r. b. -
Do. 1 b, ............ • * * * * * * * *
|
STAGES.
. F.
Mi F.
10 1
10 0
12 0
12 0
10 4
12 6


_~


Madras.
PLACES. srsens.
M. r. M. I-‘
x 2 n. to Nittfil‘ .......... .. 1 0
>< 3n. to Shivanagyapalli... 2 6
Narranapalli ............. .. 1 2
SANNAGALLAGUDU’R 1 7 8 7
>< 2 n. to Gandlapadu .... .. 2 3
Tippareddipalli .......... .. 2 2
>< 2 n. to Tfirpatri b. . 2 2
Pennar r. r. b. . . . . . . . . .. 0 6
Do., l. b. ........ .. 0 3
Boundar ...... .. . 1 2
SUKAL R . 1 0 H0 2
Vaimalpadu .. . 10 1 10 1
Jakalcheru ..... .. . 11 7 11 7
Gutti,b. &t. 0. . . 7 2 7 2
Aminapalli ..... .. . 11 4 11 4
Gundukal, 6. . 8 1 8 1
Gaddakal, b. . . . . . . . . . . . .. 10 4 10 4
Paramadavenhalli, b. 13 1 13 1
Ballari, I1. 8:11. 0. ....... .. 9 1 9 1
334 O
This Route is the same as the pre-
as far as Nfigari; after that it
takes a direction a httle to the W.,
running parallel with it by Gutti, at a
distance on the average of about 20
miles.
(a) Pallipat is a small village, with a
large tank. To the left of the road be-
tween it and Navan‘, runs the Kortilli
river as far as Nadiliam. The road itself
crosses a red soil for some furlon , and
then enters the bed of a river, wdiich is
very sand . After 5 m. of a low and well
cultivate country, hills are close on the
right for the next three, and thence the
coun is open to Pallipat.
(6) ar is a hamlet much smaller than
Pallipat. The country during the first
half of the stage is open and cultivated;
but after that hilly and wooded, except
near the road.
Pennamar is a village of moderate
size ; Wudalwdldpalli a very small ham-
let. The road from Pennamur to Raja-
waripalli is very bad. At Mangalam-
péta, which is a small village, it becomes
a little circuitous for a short distance, in
order to avoid the Ddmalcheri Gladt,
which is impassable by carts. The
stage from Damalcheri to Pilér is thus
' For remarks referring to this and follow-
ing stages see Route 25.
ROUTE 26.—nsnsAs ro BALLARI, BY nicnorr.

131
lengthened about 4 miles, the direct
distance being 15m. 7f.
(101) Pilér or Pillier is a large place,
't a good bazar. The Pinchi river
supplies the town with water. From
this place the Pagoda of Tripetti, which
is about 20 miles distant, may be conve-
niently visited.
d) Gu/mil12r.—-This is a large village
1 m. 2 f. to the left of the road. Water is
supplied from the Bahu river. There is
a road hence b the N amma or Dumbra
Ghat, which, owever, is uite im as-
sable. Hence Gurram onda (
Telugu, garramu, “ horse,” konda,
“hill,” “horse hill” , 8 m. distant to
the W., ma be visite . The mountain
of Gurram onda is one majestic, almost
perpendicular, mass of granite, towering
to the height of about 800 or 900 ft.
The rock is throughout naked, and its
convex summit is crested with a strong
fortification, constituting a formidable
hill-fort, inaccessible, save on the E.
face, where a narrow difiicult pathway
winds through a defile of projecting
rocks, which, through the disintegrating
influence of ages, have been rent from
the mountain. Here once stood the
capital of the district of Gurram Konda
(at present comprehended in that of
Kadapag, but now a heap of shapeless
ruins, t e haunt of beasts of prey, such
as 'ackals, h enas, etc., and the source
of deadly aria; the noxious influence
of which is seen in the sickly and drop-
sical appearance, the premature senjlity,
the anasarcous extremities and enlarged
spleens, of the squalid and thinly scat-
tcred population of the surrounding
country ; which, though much more
elevated than that of Rachoti, is over-
grown—particularly between the hills-—
with low dense jungle, while the country
about Rachoti is perfectly open and free
from underwood. The natives com lain
of the water, too, being bad; an it is
certainly much imbued with saline par-
ticles. The fortress Gurram Konda
was besieged in 1791 b the Niganfs
army, assisted by a small ritish detach-
ment, which stormed the lower fort with-
out much loss, and was afterwards ordered
S. to join the grand army. Some troops
were left to garrison the lower fort and
T011] .


132
Sect. II.
RouTE 27.—MADRAs To BALLAR1, BY PALMANKR.
Werradanangi Sitapalli... 1
Sup, of Bengalúr–Bengalur. Thence
to boundary after Kogirra: Collector of
Ballari—Ballari. Thence to boundary
after Tirumani: Sup. of Bengalūr-
Bengalur. Thence to Ballári : Col-
lector of Ballári-Ballari.
TLACES, STAGES.
M. F. M. F.
PUNAMALLI, b. & t. o. 12 4 12
Shriperambudur, b. & t. o. 130 13
Rājā Chattram, b........... 14 2. 14
Bălchetti Chattram, b..... 10 2 10
Wocheri Chattram, b...... 0 8
Arcot, b. & p. o... - 5* 12
Sairkád ..... •- - - 7} 9
Narharipéta, b, ..
Chittar, b. & t. 0
Bairipalli....................
Venkatagadi, b.............
# b. & t. o. ......
Bengalúr Rd. joins........ 0
#
}
Kalpalli
Boundar • -
x n. to Pandanghi........
x dryn, to LINGAPURAM 3
Basapuram.................. 3
Kulupalli .................. 3
PUNGANUR, private b.
& t. 9......................
Widdawaldinni . -
Wannagánpalli.....
Kudursinnapalli
Minniki.........
Dinpalli..........
Rámasamudram .........
SOMIADULAPALLI...
Yerrataimanpalli .........
x n. to Timbălă
Ronir........................
YAICHAMPALLI.......
Aríguntah........ • • • * * * * * * *
#• - - - - - - - -
freddipalli ....
£ • • - - - - - - - - - - -
CHINTOMANIPET....
Timmasamudram ..........
Sorpal .............
Sandapalli..
Battalpalli............ • * *
GUNNALG'RKf
Darrupalli.................
Venkatampalli............
TAIKUPALLI............ 7 6
1
0
8
4
1
5
7
9
5
blockade the upper, under the command
of one of the Nizam's generals, who was
shortly afterwards attacked by the eldest
of Tipa's sons, totally routed and slain.
Haidar Sáhib then threw supplies into
the upper fort, and retired with complete
success. In 1767, it had been surren-
dered to the Marathas by Mir 'Ali Riza
Khan, the brother-in-law of Haidar
'Ali. The Mir's grandfather had re-
ceived it from the court of Golkonda;
and his son again had been dispossessed
by the Pathán Nüwab of Kadapa, and
reinstated by the Marathas. In 1768,
however, Mír 'Ali Riza returned to his
alliance with Haidar; but, in 1770, his
nephew, Sayid Sahib surrendered Gur-
ram Konda to the Marathas under
Trimbak Rao, after a siege of two
months; but it was again reconquered
from them by Tipú, three years after,
and held by him until his fall.
After passing the hamlet of Rajawāri-
palli, Rachoti is the next large village.
Likireddipalli again is a small hamlet;
Surupu Agrahdram, a cluster of villages.
Waimpalli and Baldpanir are both large
villages; the intermediate one, Golal-
gudur has about 100 houses. Yellanur
and Sannagallagudur are both large
villages. For the remaining places, see
the preceding Route.
ROUTE 27.
MADRAs To BALLARI, BY ARCOT AND
PALMANKR. 340 M. 23 F.
MILITARY AUTHORITY-To Palma-
nér: Officer commanding Centre Divi-
sion—Madras. Thence to Râmasamu-
dram: Officer commanding Ceded Dis-
tricts—Balldri. Thence to boundary
after Bāgaipalli: Officer commanding
Maisür Division—Bengalur. Thence to
Kogirra: Officer commanding Ceded
Districts—Balldri. Thence to boundary
after Tirumani: Officer commanding
Maisür Division—Bengalur. Thence to
Ballari: Officer commanding Ceded Dis-
tricts—Balldri.
CIVIL AUTHORITY – To boundary
after Balchetti Chattram : Collector of
Chengalpatt — Pallikarni. Thence to
boundary after Palmanér: Collector of
N. Arcot–Chittir. Thence to Rámasa-
mudram: Collector of Kadapa-Kadapa.
Thence to boundary after Bāgaipalli:
* For remarks relating to this and six fol-
lowing stages see Routes 7 and 9.
1
2
3
8
3


Madras. RouTE 27.—MADRAs To
BALLARI, BY PALMAN£R. 133
PLACES. STAGES.
F
M.
F
Bábishettipalli....... ---
Wallásápalli... -
Bammanapalli......
Gaddaminchepalli ...
SADILLI ....
Wusampalli.
Mittimarri .
Kótakóta..........
Marriganipalli....
Yellampalli.......
Gundapalli ............ •-
BAGAIPALLI, t. o. ......
x Chiträwati r. to Gant-
wárpallib. ...............
Pulaparti }
9 6
15 0
:
2
#
Boundary
Kodikunda ............
Chillamatür........... •
x 2 n. to KODUR.
Kambalpalli............ -
Pulagorapalli............... •
x 3 m. to PALSAMU-
DRAM, b. ...............
Pápireddipalli...
Rd. to Gutti.........
Ran # •- * * * * * *
# PETA b.
Sumpalli.............
x n. to Turukulputra.....
KOGIRRA, b................
Rágimakulapalli............
x n. to Rāmchūr..... ......
Jakalcheru, Boundary .....
Râpéta........................
Hanumanpalli.
Tirumani, b....
Ráchirla ............
Kiawaganicherlah
Boundary........... -
Makaiyengāmapalli.........
PAIRUR, b ...............
Conettinainipálliam ........
x n. to Anantapuram......
x 2 n. to Dinnamída Chen-
naipalli.....................
x Pennár r. 220yrds. wide
to RAMPURAM ......
Yennamal Chennapalli ...
x n. to Kauperlapalli......
x n. to GOLAH b..........
x Síareddi n, to Ganga-
Waram ......... •- -
Sírpf..................... -
X # n, to Awala-anna...
#
8
3
|
7
4
9 7
|
|
:
|
PLACES.
x ditto to BELLAKUPA
x 4 n. to Pengalpädu......
x 2 n. to Malliam .........
Nagayapalli ...............
x n. to TUMAGANUR...
Garudacheru .. -
x n. to Minapalli.
Bidurakonattam .... -
Hondr " ......................
GOWINDAVADA.H......
Huggidir. r. b. ............
Ditto l, b, ..
Benganpalli..........
Harisamudram
x n, to Kurubahalli ......
BUDIHALU ....... -
x n. to Bobagunta .........
x n. 220yds, wide to Go-
mihálu ..................... 3
x do do. to Gutti Rd.,joins 1
Péta begins, pass through
it to
BALLARI, E.gate, b, & p.o. 1 0
T
A.
:
E.
S.
:
*:
:
8 7
7 6
|
9 3
:
8 2
340.2%
The road to Palmanér has already
been described (Routes 7 and 9). A very
bad road, over a white clayey soil, leads
through the village of Lingapuram to
Punganur, a large fortified town, the
residence of a petty Rajá, whose palace
is open to all gentry. To this town a
district is attached, 2-3rds of which were
acquired by the British Government in
1799. In 1806 this district, comprising
60 large villages and 675 hamlets, was
put under the management of the col-
lector, not owing to the misconduct of
the Rājā or Páligár, but as an experi-
ment; and the sum collected during this
period was made in 1816 the basis of a
permanent settlement. The gross re-
venue was about 12,000l. a-year.
The road continues bad for the next
7 stages to Kodár. Chintomanipét is
a large# with upwards of 200 shops.
From Kogirra to Râmpuram the road is
tolerably good, but thence to Ballári it
is bad, particularly in wet weather, when
the blacksoil becomes almost impassable.
There is no place of importance on the
route which, after Chintomanipét, runs
arallel to the preceding, at an average
£ of 50 miles to the W.


134 Sect. II. Madras.
SOU THE R N DIVISION.
Preliminary Information.
1. BouxDARIES AND GENERAL ASPECT OF THE DIVISION–SUB-DIVISIONS AND
CHIEF Towns.–2. HISTORICAL SKETCH–CASTEs—EMPLOYMENTS OF THE
NATIVEs.
1. BounDARIES AND GENERAL ASPECT of THE DIVISION.—SUB-DIVISIONS AND
CHIEF TOWNS.
This division, lying between lat. 8° 5' and 12°, and long, 76° 12 and 79° 56',
is bounded on the N. by the S. division of Arcot, Maisür, and S. Malabar, and on
the other three sides by the sea. It is somewhat of a triangular shape, the base
being towards Maisür, and the apex Cape Komorin. The W. Ghats, running
through it from N. to S., divide it into two vastly unequal parts, Tiruvankodu
£") on the one side to the W., and the remainder of the division to
the E.
Sub-divisions.—The S. division is subdivided into the following Collecto-
rates:–Koimbatar, Madura, Tinnevelli, Salem, Trichinápalli, and Tanjūr, and
the semi-independent state of Tiruvankodu (Travancore). These Collectorates are
again sub-divided as follows:–
1. KoiMBATUR.
Distance from Distance
Taluks or Districts. Chief Towns. Koimbatuir." from Madras.
- M. F. - -
1. Nilgiris Utakamand 47 ": #3 #
2. Kolligål Kolligål 96
3. Satyamangalam Satyamangalam 42
4. Danaikenköté Sirumu 24
5. Andiir Bhavanigudal 62
6. Cheynir Cheynir 30
7. Yirúd Yirüd 59
8. Peranduré Peranduré 48
9. Koimbatür Koimbatúr ** 306
10. Paládam Paládam 23
11. Kängiam Kangiam 43
12. Dhārapuram Dhārapuram 51
13. Kárúr Kártir 80
14. Paláchi Paláchi 24
15. Chakragari Udulmalköta 42
The direction taken is from N.W. to S.E.
2. MADURA.
Táluks or Districts. Chief Towns. Pl:om fro:
1. Iyampalli Palné 64
2. Tondikombu Dindigal 39 7 259 2}
3. Nellakoté Nellakoté 25


Southern Div. SUB-DIVISIONS AND CHIEF TOWNS.
135
Tāluks or Districts. Chief Towns. Pl'm
M.
4. Mādakolam Madura 9%
5. Tirumangalam Tirumangalam 12
6. Mailur ailür 17
7. Rāmgadi Kaurapatti 65
8. Tenkarré Tenkarré 46
. TINNEVELLI.
Taluks or Districts. Chief Towns. for 'u'.
1. Shankarnakoil Shankarnakoil 34
2. Tenkäshi Tenkáshi 30
3. Brahmadāsam Ambasamudram 17
4. Sharmadevi Sharmadevi 10
5. Nelliambalam Tinnevelli 35
6. Strivaiguntam Strivaiguntam 17
7. Panchamål Trichendür 35
8. Wedugrámam Pudugrâmam **
9. Satuir Sātūr 46
10. Uttapandaram Uttapandaram 28
11. Nagunari Nágunári 18
12. Valiuir Valiar 26
13. Shrivalliputúr Shrivalliputór 55
4. SALEM.
Táluks or Districts. Chief Towns. f'.
1. Hos(ir Hostir. 92
2. Denkenkóta Denkenkóta 76
3. Krishnagadi Krishnagadi 65
4. Tirupatiir Tirupatiar 70
5. Dharampuri Dharampuri 42
6. Tengarakóta Utangadi 50
7. Womaliir Tārāmangalam 14
8. Salem Salem **
9. Ahtúr Ahtúr 32
10. Shankaridrug Shankaridrug 23
11. Rāzipur (Raizepoor) Rāzipur 15
12. Trichengód Trichengód 29
13. Namkal Namkal 31
14. Parmatti Parmatti 40
5. TRICHINAPALLI.
Táluks or Districts. Chief Towns. from 'alii.
1. Toriúr Kananür 22
2. Walkondapuram Parembaluir 33
3. Aryalur Kílapalúr 32
4. Wudiarpalliam Jainkondasholapuram 58
5. Wittikatti Kulatalé 21
6. Muserí Muserí 22
7. Lalgudi Lálgudi 12
8. Konád Trichinapalli
**
Distance
from Madras.
M. F.
280 5
Distance from
Madras.
377
Distance from
Madras.
193
Distance from
Madras.
198


136
Sect. II. Madras.
SUB-DIVISIONS AND CHIEF TOWNS.
Taluks or Districts.
1
l
1
|
|
Tiruvadi
. Pāpanasham
Kumbhakonam
Myaveram
Shealli
. Tranquebar
. Kodavasel
. Tiruvaluir
. Kivalór
. Pattákóta
. Manārgudi
. Titrapundi
. Nannellam
. Kotallam
. Peralem
. Valengamán
6. TANJúR.
Chief Towns,
Tiruvadi
Pápanásham
Kumbhakonam
Myaveram
Shealli
Pariár
Kodavasel
Tiruvalar
Nágapatanam
Pattököta
Manárgudi
Titrapundi
Nannellam
Kotallam
Peralem
Valengamán
Distance from Tanjár to Madras
Distance
rom Tanjur.
M.
7
13
22
43
54
58
32
35
49
27
22
38
40
38
44
24
7. TIRUVANKoDU (TRAVANcoRE).
Táluks or Districts.
!
|:
|
|
:
:
:
. Agasteshwar
. Tovanla
. Kakkolam
Yeraníl
. Vellavenkod
. Neyattenkaré
. Trivandram
. Nedduvenkád
. Sherankíl
. Kolam (Quilon)
. Karnagapalli
. Kartigapalli
. Amballapalli
. Kotarakaré
. Pathánapuram
. Kunattir
. Mävalikaré
. Chenganár
Tiruvalla
. Kottiam
. Changanacheri
. Minachel
. Toduwala
. Yaithmanūr
25.
26.
27.
28.
Shertallé
Wyekam
Pírávam
Muattupallu
{
Chief Towns. £
M. : ... i
Shushindram 44
Pudupandi 40
Kakkolam, or 31
Palpanapuram }
Yeranil 32
Kulatoré 23
Neyattenkaré 12
Trivandram
Nedduvenkäd 11
Sherankfl 20
Kolam (Quilon) 42
Karnagapalli 54
Kartigapalli 70
Amballapalli (Aleppee) 40
Kotarakaré 42
Pathánapuram 54
Kunatür 50
Mávalikaré 68
Chenganur 72
Tiruvalla 78
Kottiam 94
Changanacheri 82
Laulam and Paulipét 108
Toduwali 122
Yaithmanūr 92
Arriádu 92
Vyekam 109
Pirávam 119
Muattupalli 129
Distance from
Madras.
M.
194 2
Distance
from Madras
M.
467


Southern Div. msromesr. sxnrcrr. 137
rerun or Districts. Chief Towns. I1’-l,‘§f,‘,‘,_",‘,§,,‘:',,‘§',‘f ,-,.,,§“§f,'j§.°,,,,,_
29. and } Perambaulfir 141
30. Allangfid Allangfid 134
31. Parraur Parrafir 34
32. {,S,f,f,‘,‘,l;‘1’f,§:iai‘;1°1“di“g} Shenkotta (aid Quilon) so
2. HISTORICAL SKETCH——CASTES—El\IPLOYMENTS OF THE NATIVES.
We know from an ancient Tamil MS. in the Mackenzie collection, and from
other sources, that Koimbatiir formed the chief and central part of the once
powerful kingdom of Chera, Sera, or Kan 'am. The principality may be
escribed as bounded on the N. by the hills w 'ch form the S. limit of Maisur,
on the E. b Salem and Dindigal, on the S. by the Pandyan kingdom, and on
the W. by t e ocean. Its limits, however, were afterwards extended much further,
and at times are said to have reached even the Narmada river and the sea of
Coromandel. The antiquity of the empire is proved by what we read in Ptolemy
of the Oarura Regia Cerebothri, in which, with a slight allowance for the altera-
tion of sounds to be expected in a foreign writer, we recognize the Cheras Kérur,
still a city in that locality, and Uherapati, “the sovereign of Chera." The MS.
above-mentioned, gives a list of 28 monarchs, who ruled the Ohera country from Shrf
Vira Raja Chakravarthi, of the Solar race and Reddi tribe, born at Skandapura, a
city somewhat to the W. of the Gajalhatti Pass, down to Malla Deva Raya the
II., who died about the end of the 9th century, A.D., and in whose reign Shri
Ranga, pa_t!azw/m (Seringapatam) was founded by a person named Tiru Mall.
The names given are too few to cover the number of years allotted to this dynasty,
for the fifth king is said to have made a grant of land in A.D. 82. Still we may
accept the catalogue as an approximation to the truth. The 7th king is said to
have been converted from the -Taina to the Saiva faith b the celebrated Shan-
karacharya, and after his conversion to have conquere the Chola, Pand a,
Kerala, and Malayala countries. The 10th king made the great cit of Da a-
vanpura or Télakad his capital. It was built on the N. bank of the avéri, 30
miles E. of Seringapatam, on the frontiers of Maisfir and Salem, and was called
the S. Gaya. It 16 now buried in sand, but a single magnificent tem le and some
ruins attest its former greatness. About 900 s.n., Vi_]a a Raya A 'tya Varm_a,
who had been installed as king of the Chola country at lyanjiir, conquered Chera
and took Talakad, the capital. He may, therefore, be reckoned as the 29th
monarch of the Chera country. The next kinv, Vira Chola Raye, built the
Kanaka, or golden hall, at the pagoda of Chelam ram, after having seen Shiva
and Parvati dancing on the sea shore. The 34th king, Ari Vari Deva, ruled
over Chola, Chera, Dravida and Karnata. He conquered the Kerala country
also, and his standard was carried victoriousl to the Godavari and Narmada.
With his reign, .s.1>. 1004, the notice of the hola dynasty in the MS. alluded
to concludes, and proceeds to the Bellala.
Chola kings appear to have ruled the Chera country, after the conquest in
900 A.D., about 160 years. In 1058, Ari Vari Deva, the Chola king, was slain by
the forces of the Chalukya Ra's, whose territories he had invaded. Then arose a
new dynast , the Belléla or oyisala kings, the first of whom established himself
at Télaka 1069 .s.1). The capital was subsequently transferred to Dwara
Samudram, 105 miles N.W. of Seringapatam, which was built in 1133, and
destroyed in 1326 A.D., by Kaffir, general of Allahu’d-din. The seat of govern-
ment was then transferred to Tonfir, or Yadava-puri, 12 miles N. of Seringa-
patam; but, in 1343, Vijayanagar was founded on the banks of the Tunga


138 HISTORICAL SKETCH. Sect. II. Madras.
Bhadra, and the Rājās of that place soon subverted the Bellala kings. After the
decline of Vijayanagar, Koimbatar fell under the power of the Maisar # and
subsequently formed a part of Haidar and Tipú's dominions, from the latter of
whom it passed to us in 1799 A.D.
Madura was the capital of the regio Pandionis, mentioned by Ptolemy. It is
supposed that this region was peopled soon after Rāma's e'dition to Ceylon, by
# grims to the scene of his exploits; and Professor Wilson conjectures the
&ndyan principality to have been an organized state as early as six centuries
before the Christian era. Its history is made up of wars with the Chera and
Drávid kings. . About the 10th century a college was founded at Madura, which
seems to have had considerable influence on the language and civilization of the
Tamil people. At last, hemmed in by the growing power of the Chera and Chola
kings, and by the growth of the Râmnád principality, the Pandyan kingdom
shrank into a small chieftainship tributary to the Bellala sovereigns of Maisür, and
afterwards to Vijayanagar. The dynasty of the Madura Naiks commenced about
A.D. 1420, of whom #ma: Naik was the most celebrated. He succeeded in
1623, and magnificent edifices still attest his riches and his taste. In 1731, on
the death of £ Ranga Chokanāth Naik, a dispute took place as to the succes-
sion, as the Nāik died childless. His wife, however, Minakshi Ammal, adopted
'' Kumāra, a descendant of a younger son of Tirumala Naik, and assumed
the £ Bhangaru, the father of the adopted child, claimed the chiefship for
himself, and the dispute being imprudently referred to Dost 'Ali, the Nüwab of
Arcot, Chanda £ the son of Dost 'Ali, after some hypocritical proceedings,
made himself master of the territory. Then followed the war of the Karnātak.
In 1781, the English government appointed its own collectors, to realise the
revenue assigned by the Nawab to his foreign allies, and thus the Pandyan king-
dom became merged in the rapidly extending territories of the British. Tinne-
velli, however, is to this day called Pāndi by the natives.
Tiruvankodu (Travancore) part of the ancient Kerala, appears to have been for
a very long time subject to the Chera kings. In the Kerala-Utpati, an ancient
history of Malayalam, eighteen princes are mentioned as sovereigns before
Cheraman Perumal, with whom, to judge by the name, which signifies “ Viceroy
of the Chera King,” terminated the independent government of the country.
This event is referred to the year 352 A.D. These viceroys of the Chera rulers,
however, no doubt soon emancipated themselves. The 27th descendant of Chera-
man, named Wanji Martanda Perumal, added considerably to his territories by
conquest. In 1757, he subdued, after a sanguinary and dubious conflict, the petty
state of Kayan Kulám, or Quilon. His successor, Wanji Banla Perumal, with a
strong force disciplined by D'Lanoy, a Flemish adventurer, made further acquisi-
tions, but, in 1788, his progress was checked, and his country invaded by Tipú,
who would soon have reduced him to the position of a vassal, but for the timely
advance of Lord Cornwallis. In 1799, Rāma Warma Perumal became Rājā; he was
a weak prince, whose reign was little better than a succession of troubles. In 1808,
a general insurrection of his people took place, which was put down by a British
force under Colonel St. Leger. At the outset of the struggle, an attempt was
made to assassinate the British Resident, which, owing to the fidelity of a
domestic, proved abortive. The expenses of the military operations were very
justly imposed on the State where they took place; and, agreeably to a former
£ concluded in November, 1795, a subsidiary force, consisting of one Euro-
pean and three Native regiments, was cantoned at Quilon. In 1811, the Rājā died,
and was succeeded by a princess, Lakshmi Rání. On her accession, the Resident,
Colonel Munro, assumed the duties of Minister, and in three years, having
restored the finances of the country to a flourishing condition, resigned them into
the hands of a native Diwán. In 1814, Lakshmi Räni died, and her sister acted
as Regent till 1829, when the eldest son of Lakshmi was placed on the throne by


__-mm-
Southern Div. CASTEs—EMPLOYMENTs oF THE NATIVEs. 139
the Resident, Colonel Morison. He died in 1846, and was succeeded by the pre-
sent Rājā, Martanda Warma.
...There are a number of petty chiefs within the territories of Travancore, who
still preserve some semblance of authority. Of these, the Yeddapalli Rajá, who
is the family priest of the Travancore Rajás and a Namburi brahman, possesses
the most populous and productive territory. His spiritual influence is extensive.
His capital, Yeddapalli, is situated a few miles N.E. of Cochin... In the S.
Autingal is the appanage of the eldest female of the reigning family. Near it
is the domain of the Rājā of Killimanir, otherwise called Koil Pandala. The
territory of the Pandalam Rājā has been sequestered, since 1812, by the Travan-
core Rājā for debt due to him. This is the largest mountain chiefship, and the
hillsmen, who possess the S. p": of the cardamom highlands, consider them-
selves as clansmen of this chief. The Punyatu Perumal, a highland chief rules
with doubtful sway a large hilly tract, peopled by migratory tribes. The British
districts, Anjutenga and Tangancheri, near Kayan Kulam, are included in the
Malabar Collectorate, and in judicial matters are under the principal Sadr Amín
at Cochin.
In Travancore and Malabar the native brahmans of the country are called
Namburís, and are regarded as having higher claims to sanctity, and as of a
superior caste to all foreign brahmans. They claim a hereditary right to all the
land of the country below the Ghats in this direction, affirming that it was
bestowed upon them by the God Parshurama, when he created this part of India.
The legend is, that he hurled his axe from the top of the Ghats, and that the
ocean receded from the space over which the weapon flew. The newly acquired
region was named Kerala. The Namburi brahmans are much sought after as
aramours by the Nair women; and, in particular, the ladies of the Tamuri
äjä's family (the Zamorin of Calicut) are always impregnated by these men.
They still possess much of the land, which they have been accustomed to cultivate
by slave labour.
The Naimar or Nairs are the pure Shudras of Malabar, and all pretend to be
born soldiers; but they are of various ranks and professions. There are in all
eleven classes of them, the highest being the Kirim or Kiril Nairs. On all
public occasions these act as cooks, which, amongst Hindús, is an infallible sign of
transcendent rank, for every one can eat food prepared by one of a superior
caste. They never marry a woman of any of the lower Nairs, except of the
Shudra or of the Charnadu Nairs, and of these rarely. The second class of Nairs
are the Shudra Nairs, who are farmers, officers of government, and accountants.
They marry only in their own class; but their women may cohabit with any of
the low people without disgrace. The third class are the Charnadu, who follow
the same profession as the class above them. The fourth are the William, who
are farmers and also carry the pálkis of the Rājas and of the Namburís. The
Wattakatta or oilmakers, who are also cultivators, form the fifth class; and the
Attikourchis, also cultivators, are the sixth. The Wallakatra, barbers and
cultivators, are the seventh class; and the Wallatera, who are washermew, the
eighth. Ninthly, there are the Tanar Naimar, or tailors. Tenthly, the Andora,
or pot-makers. The eleventh and lowest class are the Taragon, or weavers, whose
title to be considered Nairs is so doubtful that, should they touch even a pot-
maker he must wash his head and purify himself by prayer.
The men of the three higher classes may eat together, but their women and all
the inferior classes can eat only with those of their own class.
The Nairs formed, before our rule was established, the militia of Malayala,
directed by Namburís and governed by the Rājas. They are submissive to
their superiors, but so jealous of their own dignity and caste, that formerl
a Nair would instantly cut down a Ziar or Mukwar who presumed to touc
him, or a slave who did not turn out of his road. The Nairs worship


140 CASTEs—EMPLOYMENTs of THE NATIVEs. Sect. II. Madras.
Vishnu especially, and offer bloody sacrifices to Marima and the other Saktis.
They are excessively addicted to intoxicating liquors, and are allowed to eat
venison, goats, fowls, and fish. The most singular of their customs has
reference to marriage. They wed before the bride is ten years old, but after
the first night the husband never cohabits with his wife. She lives in her
mother's house, or, after the death of her parents, with her brothers, and cohabits
with any lover, or as many lovers as she chooses, of equal or superior rank. The
Nair women are £ beautiful, and cleanly in their habits as regards
£ and dress. They are proud of reckoning among their paramours brâh-
mans, Rājās, or other persons of high rank. They do not sell their charms,
but the lover commonly presents some ornaments of small value to his mistress,
and a piece of cloth to her mother. The consequence of this strange proceeding
is, that no Nair knows his father, and regards his sister's children as his heirs.
A man's mother manages his family; and after her death, his eldest sister assumes
the direction. Brothers live under the same roof, but if one separates from the
rest, he is always accompanied by his favourite sister.
This want of restraint among the women does not have any injurious effect on
the population. To it may be, perhaps, attributed the total want of that penu-
rious disposition natural to other Hindús. The young of both sexes vie with one
another as to who shall look best, and while they seek to enjoy the present moment
they are careless and indifferent as to the future.
The Niadis may be taken as a specimen of the low outcast tribes of Malabár.
They are reckoned so impure that even a slave will not touch them. They are
almost entirely naked, and wander about in companies of ten or twelve, keepin
at a little distance from the roads, and on seeing a passenger they set up a how
like so many hungry dogs. Those who compassionate them, put down what they
wish to give in the road and go away. The Niadis then come and put the dole
in baskets they always carry about with them. They speak a barbarous dialect,
and from being always obliged to bawl from a distance to those they address, they
have acquired a prodigious strength of voice. They refuse all labor, except that
of keeping off wild beasts and birds from the crops, for which services they receive
a pittance from the owners. Hunters also employ them to rouse game, but they
are unable to kill animals themselves, except sometimes a tortoise, or, by means
of hooks, an alligator, which they reckon delicious food. Their wretched huts
are built in secluded spots under trees. They worship a goddess called Maladeva,
and sacrifice fowls to her in March. When one of them dies, all the neighbouring
Niadis assemble and bury the body. They have no marriage ceremony.
The Shandrs of Tinnevelli and S. Travancore are a very numerous caste. In
locality they succeed the Hindú Tamils of Tanjar and Madura, and fill up all
the extreme S. part of India, extending round Cape Komorin 30 miles up Travan-
core. Next to them come a similar tribe called I'ldvas, who number 180,000,
making in all about 700,000 souls. Their habits are thus described by the Rev.
J. Mullens:—“Their legends declare that they came last from Ceylon, which lies
immediately ' to Tinnevelli; and Rāvan, whom the Hindús esteem an
unholy giant, they look on as their divine king. On his birthday is held their
greatest annual festival. Their language is a rough uneducated Tamil, without
any mixture of Sanskrit, and furnishes a strong proof, cognate with others, that
these Shānārs are another portion of the great aboriginal Tătăr race which first
overran the soil of India. They live in a singular manner. Where no rice or
corn whatever is to be had, they subsist entirely upon the palm tree, whose latent
riches long experience has taught them to develope. Where the soil is favorable
to rice cultivation, or any kind of vegetables or fruit can be purchased, the pro-
duce of the palm forms only a part of their living. Of these two plans, the latter
is most common on the Travancore side. The people obtain their food from the
palm in this way: the flower of the tree is contained in a large sheath, which,


Southern Div. CASTES—-EMPLOYMENTS or THE NATIVES. 141
when cut and pressed, furnishes a considerable quantity of fresh sweet ‘nice. If,
newl cut and attended to every day, the juice is deposited daily ; but left for a
coup e of days, the juice thickens and the vessels in which it lies become hard
and cease to secrete it. This palm juice is the life of the Shanar population;
and in order to get it regularly, they are compelled to pass their life in ainful
and incessant toil. From forty to sixty trees are required to feed one amily.
The Shanar peasant furnishes himself with a large pot and several smaller ones,
a stafl‘ with a cross at the top, and a pair of wooden pincers. Arriving at his to e
of trees, he puts the large vessel on the ground, and hangs the small pot and t e
pincers to his waist. He next slips a small band round one of his feet, plants his
stick against the tree, and, clasping the trunk with both arms, begins to climb.
He first places one foot on the head of the stick ; this is his start; he then slips
both feet into the band, which prevents them from going a art; and clasping the
trunk alternately with his arms and his bound feet, climlbs speedily to the top.
He then cuts the bud of the tree, or lucks ofi‘ a small strip; squeezes the juice
into his little pot, presses it gently wit his wooden pincers, and comes down again.
Pouring the contents of his pot into the large vessel, he climbs another tree, and
another, and another, until he has gone over his fifty trees. By this time, in the
favorable seasons of the year, he has collected a large quantity of palm juice and
returns home. In the evening he goes the same round, and thus climbs full
a hundred times a da . In the dry season he must climb each tree three times
a day, but he never oes it less than twice. Most Shanars take about fifty trees,
but some climb as manyas sixty. Surely few people in the world can be reckoned
more hard-working than they. The juice taken home, the peasant’s wife boils it
continuously over a slow fire; the watery part is adually evaporated, and a
lump of coarse black-looking sugar is left behind. hat sugar is the food of the
people ; with the very poor it is their wealth, and it is often put into the late at
the communion table as an offering to the Lord. The following singu ar fact
cannot be forgotten here. Though holding in their hands, on the largest scale,
the means of making spirits, the Shanars, as a people, do not allow their palm
juice to ferment ; they are, hence, not at all a drunken race. The Ilavas, on the
other hand, their neighbours in Travancore, who live on the cocownut, always
ferment palm juice, and do drink to excess.”
The most remarkable characteristic of the Shanars is their reli ion, which is
Devil-worship. They have no notion whatever of a Supreme Go , the Creator
and Ruler of the Universe. To a very slight extent they acknowledge some of the
Hindii deities, but only those that resemble the peculiar objects of their own
worship; and they themselves are not Hindiis by caste, birth, or religion. Their
creed is, that the spirits of men after death continue to exist, and possess
the power of inflicting all kinds of evil on the living. Whatever may have
been the sex or caste of the human bein s, whose frames these spirits ani-
mated on earth, the same is retained by t em when disembodied, but in this
one oint they all agree, a measureless malignity, and capacity for originating
misc ief. Blessings are never prayed for from these spirits; their com assionate
or tender feelings are never appealed to; they are, in short, fiends, and t e utmost
that can be hoped for from them is, that their malice maylbe appeased, so far, at least,
as to pass over those who reverence them, and select ot er victims. They blast the
crops, withhold rain, spread murrain among the cattle, ride on the storm, and
afllict men with diseases, especially sun-strokes, madness, and epilepsy. They
dwell in waste places, in the densest forests, and among ruins. No temples are
ever erected to them, but the whole Shanar country is covered with mud p a-
mids, plastered and white-washed, and with the figure of a devil delineate in
front, set up to mark the spots where the peo le assemble for the worship of these
revolting deities. Sometimes a thatched she£ open in front, is substituted for the
pyramid, but both alike are called pé-kovil, “devil's-house." Some of the figures


142 CASTES-EMPLOYMENTS OF THE NATIVES. Sect. II. Madras.
represent Bhadrakali, the Hecate of the Hindas, others have buffalo heads, but
most commonly the pictures are those of hags devouring children. In one village
the spirit of an English officer, named Pole, was the presiding fiend. The worship
consists of dancing and sacrifice. The people collect near one of the pé-kovils,
beat drums, and sacrifice a fowl, sheep, or goat. A man then comes forward with
tinkling anklets, in his hand a # staff or bell, his long hair loose, and his
body wrapped in a black cloth covered with figures of fiends, or in reeds orna-
mented with red and white flowers. At the sound of horns, drums, and the dee
tone of the devil-bow, he begins to dance. After a while he refreshes himself wit
a draught of the victim's blood, and then, with staring eyes and long hair streaming
in the wind, he whirls round and round mad with excitement. In his frantic fury
he cuts himself with the sacrificial knife, and lashes his body with a huge whip,
while the yells of the crowd encourage his exertions. When he is thoroughly ex-
hausted he sits down, and is then consulted, as inspired, regarding the ominous
occurrence which has occasioned the ceremony, for it is generally some disaster
which brings the people together. The oracle then, either by signs or muttered
words, appoints a future day for another sacrifice, when the victim is killed and
eaten with rice and other accompaniments. It is not easy for Europeans to get a
sight of these ceremonies, as the natives are averse to their presence at them.
There are some reasons for believing that this is the primitive worship of the
aborigines of India, and that it is consequently of £ antiquity. The
absence of caste, and the absurdity of their own belief, have probably aided the
missionary in his efforts among the Shánárs, and there are now considerably more
than 50,000 of them receiving regular instruction in Christian congregations.
Tribes of the Nilgiri Hills.—The curiosity of every traveller cannot fail to be
excited about these singular people, differing, as some of them do, from every other
race with which we are acquainted. At the foot of the mountains, and along the
edge of the great forests which skirt their base, dwell the Erulars (or “benighted,”
from the Tamil word erul, “darkness,”) who are divided into two classes—the
Urdli or “rulers;” and the Kurutali, or “common £ in number less than
two thousand. Their lan e is a£ composed of a mixture of Kanarese,
Tamil, and Malayalim, and though they are sometimes ranked as Hindis, they
bury their dead, and it does not M' that they worship any deities except the
winnowing-fan, which they call Mahri—to which ' sacrifice goats and cocks.
They cohabit indiscriminately, have no implements of husbandry but the hoe, sow
but little grain, and consume quickly the '. without ever storing up any-
thing, even for seed; and live half-famished the rest of the year upon a £ yam,
which has hence been called the Erular root. During the winter hunger compels
the families to separate, and the women and £ children are often left alone.
In these cases mothers frequently anticipate the doom of their infants by interring
them alive.
Above the Erulars, at a height of from one to two thousand feet, in the moun-
tain clefts and glades, live another race, who call themselves Kurumbars (“the
self-willed”), to which their neighbours prefix the epithet mullu, “thorn.” They
are also called Kurbs, from a Tuda word which signifies “glen.” Their language,
like that of the Erulars, is a mixed jargon, and their religion, too, differs only as
regards the sepulture of the dead, as they use cremation and interment indifferently.
In number they do not exceed the Erulars, and are a dwarfish, sickly-looking race,
with little or no hair, blood-shot eyes, pot-bellies, and water running from their
mouths. The women and children wear ornaments made of wild seeds and berries,
and the men adorn their ears with yellow straw, plaited with some ingenuity.
Utter savages in most respects, they seem to have some knowledge of herbs.
They draw off the sap or milk of a tree called dupa, whence they procure the
sambarani, or frankincense, and by the use of various simples they have made the
surrounding tribes believe that they are possessed of magical arts. Thus, they are


_~
Southern Div. CASTES—-EMPLOYMENTS or THE NATIYES. 143
su posed to inflict murrain on the cattle of their enemies, and this has occasionally
le to individuals among them being murdered; while the Badakars, the most
wealthy peoplle on the hills, ropitiate their goodwill by gifts.
Above t e Kurumbars well the Kohatars, é rop. Gohatara : Skr. go, “ a
cow,” and ham, “slaying,” i'.e. “ cow-killers”) ese are a strange race, having
no distinction of caste, and differing from the tribes around them, and all other
natives of India. They are the artizans of the hills, being smiths, potters, etc.,
and hence are called by the Tudas, Kiws, or “ mechanics.” Their villages are
generallyuprettily situated on hills, and every hill thus occupied is called Kahata-
giri, or garly Kotdgi-ri. They are not Hindus, but worshipagods of their own,
which they do not, however, represent by images. Barle me is their common
food, but they are greedily fond of flesh. Even the ha -devoured earcases of
animals killed by the tiger or wild-dog, are to them an acceptable repast. Like
vultures, they will follow a drove of bullocks bringing up supplies from the lower
country, and pounce upon those that drop from exhaustion or disease. The hides
they carefully prepare, and by the sale of them realise enough to pay the tax which
Government exacts from them. They number about two thousand.
The next tribe, by far the most numerous and wealthy of all, are the Badakara,
or Vadakars, (from Badaka or Vadaka, “the north,” ese people having come
to the hills from that quarter) vulgarly called Burghers. They number upwards
of ten thousand, and are divided into eight classes—but are all Hindus, of the
Shiva sect. Their language isprincipally Kanarese. The Tudas call them Mares,
“laborers.” They are a small-limbed, short race, but straight and well-made.
About seven generations ago, during the anarchy that ensued at the downfall of the
Vija anagara empire, the Badakars, then cultivators of the plain, fled to the hills.
To tlie tribes already in possession they aglreed to pay certain tithes for pei-mission
to cultivate. Thus each community of t em, beside a contribution to the Tudas
as lords of the soil, pays to the Kohatars of their district 80 measures for each
lough of land, and about 1-60th of the produce to the Kurumbars. The Kurum-
bars are, moreover, residuary legatees to the Badakars, and should any of the latter
die without heirs, his property goes to the Kurumbars, after the expenses of the
funeral are paid.
The last and most singular tribe of all is that of the Tudas, or, as they are
more commonly called, Tormzars (a Tamil term for ‘herdsmen.’ This extraor-
dinary race, who altogether do not number one thousand, inclu ' g women and
children, style themselves “men,” and the question, “Is that a Badzwa or a
Tuda ?” would with them be literally, “Is that a laborer or a man?” They
divide themselves into two classes—-Paikis or Terallis, who can hold all sacred
offices ; and Kata: or Tardas, who are the laymen. The Tudas are a singularly
handsome race, tall and athletic, with Roman noses, beautiful teeth, and large,
full, expressive eyes, They never wear any covering on the head, but their jet-
black hair is allowed to grow to the lengt of six or seven inches, and forms a
thick bushy mass _of curls all round. Their women retain their good looks lon er
than the females of the low count , and many of the girls are exquisitely beau ' u.l.
Their dress consists of a short nn er-garment folded round the waist, and fastened
by a girdle. Over this is thrown a sort of mantle, or toga, which covers every
part except the head, legs, and right arm. The tresses of the women are allowed
to fall in natural profusion over the neck and shoulders. Their villages, which
they call Mortts, are enerally situated on some lovely verdant slope, near the
borders of a wood. T ey breed no animals save the buffalo, nor do they engage
in agriculture or any other pursuit, but wander over the hills, of which it is said
they are the aborigines, free and unshackled. In their Mortts, their dairies form
a separate building of superior size, which is viewed by them as sacred, and into
which no female is allowed to enter. Their religion seems to be pure Theism ;
idols they have none, and they regard the brahmans with contempt. They‘ have


144 CASTES-EMPLOYMENTS OF THE NATIVES. Sect. II.
a temple dedicated to Truth, but there is no visible representation within; in
fact, nothing but three or four bells in a niche, to which libations of milk are
poured out. They salute the sun on its rising, and believe that, after death, the
soul goes to Om-norr, “the great country,” respecting which they do not attempt
to furnish any description. They have a sort of sacred groves called Teriris, and
to these herds of buffalos are attached, whose milk is allotted entirely to the
calves; and the priests of these groves are called Pal-dl, from Tamil words
signifying “milk-men.” They are honest, brave, inoffensive, and contented;
but, on the other hand, they are indolent, and do not esteem chastity a virtue.
Their dwellings more resemble the dens of beasts than the abodes of men. A
door about two feet high, and so narrow as almost to forbid ingress, leads to a
dark dirty chamber, where a whole family may be found huddled together. Yet,
even here, in spite of their rude dress and not over cleanly habits, the beauty of
their maidens cannot be overlooked. Their symmetry of form, and the tender
and delicate expression of their features, enable them to stand a comparison with
the paler beauties of the West. Among the most singular of their customs is the
sacrifice of buffaloes at their funerals, attended with a strange sort of games.
These animals, which are of a prodigious size, and far larger and wilder than the
buffaloes of the plain, are driven into an enclosed area by a party of young men
armed with huge clubs, who join hands and dance a sort of circular dance among
them. They then with shouts and blows excite the fury of the herd, and at a
iven signal two athletic youths throw themselves upon a buffalo, and grasping
the cartilage of the nostrils with one hand, hang on to the neck with the other.
Two or three more rush to their aid, while others strike the animal with their
clubs, and goad them on to fury. After a time, when the buffalo is nearly
exhausted, they fasten a bell to its neck and let it go. In this way they over-
power the herd in succession, and then resume their dance, which is concluded by
a feast. The next day a similar scene takes place; but on this occasion the
buffaloes are dragged by the sheer force of six or eight men up to a mantle con-
taining the relics of the deceased, and there slain with a single blow from a small
ax6. #. the desperate struggles of the infuriated animals to escape, the Tudas
are often severely wounded; but the courage and strength they display is very
remarkable, and it is a point of honour # those who have first attacked an
animal not to receive assistance. Another singular, though not unique, custom
of the Tudas, is that of £ also found among the Nairs of Malabār and
the hill tribes of the Himalya. The brothers of a family regularly have only one
wife, and the same arrangement is frequently, nay, generally, adopted with others
not related. As a consequence of this, female infanticide was formerly practised,
and though stopped for a time by the exertions of the late Mr. Sullivan, has, it
is feared, been again resumed. Many conjectures have been made as to the
origin of the Tudas, but as yet no certain traces of their past history have been
discovered. Their language is quite isolated, the sounds of it are deeply pectoral,
and it seems to have no affinity either with Sanskrit or with any other language
of the East. Harkness, however, thinks it is allied to the Malayalam, and alleges
that it has a dual number and an aorist tense, Caldwell (Compar. Grammar)
classes it with the Dravidian languages.


Madras.
145
RoUTE 32.-MADRAS To BOMBAY.
ROUTE 32.
(RoUTE 11-continued.)
MADRAs To BOMBAY, BY MAHABALI-
PURAM, SADRAs, PUDUCHERI (PoN-
DICHERRY), GöDALúR (CUDDALORE),
PoRTO Novo, CHELAMBRAM, TAL-
LANGAMBADI (TRANGUEBAR), KUM-
BHAKONAM, TANJUR, TRICHINAPALLI,
TRIPATúR, RAMNAD, PALIAM-KoTTA
(PALAMCOTTAH), MADURA, DINDIGAL,
SALEM, KolMBATUR, UTAKAMAND
AND THE ANIMALLE' HILLS, MANAN-
TÁDI (MANANToDDY), MAISöR, SE-
RINGAPATAM, SHIVASAMUDRAM, BEN-
GALóR, síRA, HARIHAR, AND HONA-
wAR, oR HoNoHE, 1729 M. 4 F.
PLACES. STAGES.
M. F. M. F.
Madras to PORTO NOWO
b (see Route 11)......... • 125 3
(a) CHELAMBRAM, b. &
* 0. ........................ 7 0 7 0
Ammaipéta, b.... 0 7
Kolerun r., n. bank......... 1 5
x 310 yards to the n, bank
of another branch of the
Kolerun r. .............. . 1 5
x this branch to Annákára
Chattram, b................ 0 3
Putuír .... 25
Arrastir........................ 2 0
SHEALLI, b. & t. 9....... 2 2 104
x Upanar r. 100 yards wide
to Chattanādapur........ 1 3
x n. to Tennelküdi......... 2 4
x 3 n. to Katti-irripu...... 2 0
x 5. n. to TALLI CHEN-
KADU............ • * * * * * * * * 3 4 9 3
x n. to Pundree ............ 0
x 6 small n. to Tirukadye-tir 30
Wallégumangalam - - - - - - - - - 4
(b) TALLANGAMBADI
(Tranquebar), t 0, ...... 2 2 10 6
Puraiar....................... . 1 4
Pudanur ... 3 5
Yellapur .............. 1 7
Vailampudugudi.. ... 2 6
PERAMBUR, b...... ...... 2 1 11 7
Myavaram road joins ...... 33
Manganūr .................. 1 3
Komalla .............. ... 2 5
x r. to Kattrimulé......... 30
Karraikandam... ... 2 0
SATENUR, b............... 1 2 13 5
PLACES.
Arrutoré .....................
Tiruwaddamurudar, t, 0...
Tirubhavánam...
Chandála Permalkovil.....
x Tirumalarājan r, to
Utamalli..................
x Kodamaruti r. to Tiru-
paltoré..............
PAPANASHAM -
Rajagadi......................
Serrabhojarājapuram ..... •
Ayenpetté.................. • * >
# • * * * * * * * *
Pashupetti Kovil...... - - -
Tandunkoré................. e
Allamgudi ......... ........
x Kaddungal r. to Pallia-
£ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
x Wannār r, to Wānatan-
karré........................
(d) TANJUR, b. & p. o...
Púlayanpatti.................
WELLAM, t. o. ............
x n. to Tirumallasamudram
SINGAPATTI, b, .........
Pudukudi......., • * * * * * * * * * * * *
Boundary.... •
TUWAGUDI, -
Sholamadavi ...... • * *
Kötapatti.....................
(e) Through Cantonment
over Putar bridge to TRI-
CHINAPALLI, b. & t. o.
From Putór, bridge to
Madura road joins ......
Infantry Butts...... -
Kalladamallépatti •
x n. to Sátanir............
x n. to Waddawúpatti...
x n. to Wolyar............
x Koray-ār r. 140 yards
wide to Boundary ......
Kolūkattay ......... • * * * * * * *
x 2 n. to A-UR ........
x n. to Amúrpatti... .....
x 2 n. to Perumbar......
x 3 m. to Welatandipatti
x n. to Wodaiyampatti...
STAGES.
M. F. M. F.
2 2
2 4
1 2
1 3
3 4 10 7
3 4
2 0
1 2
1 1
0 4 8 3
1 5
2 2
1 4
0 4
0 4
2 0
1 5
2 5
0 5 -
1 7 15 1
5 5
22 7 7
37
3 3 7 2
4 5
1 4
3 4 9 5
3 5
4 7
4 0 12 4
0 7
1 3
0 6
1 4
1 0
1 5
1 6
0 6
1. 3 11 0
1 5
1 7
2 5
1 5


146
ROUTE 32.–MADRAS To BOMBAY.
PLACES.
X n. to Chetterpatti ......
ILLAPUR ..................
x n. to Walliamgudi......
x n. to Pannampatti......
Parambúr...... -
Pinnamgudi........
x Vellaur r. to Shairanar
NERANJAKUDI .........
x n. to Parranderpatti...
Kovanór ....................
Shivalar .....................
x 2 n. to Tirukalgudi ...
x 6 n. to Mallampatti ...
VAILANGUDI, b..........
x n. to Shundakád..
x 3 m., to Pyór ............
x Pershalai r. to Udaiya-
napatti.....................
Pudupatti.....................
TRIPATUR or TIRUPA-
TUR, b. & t. o............
x 4 m. to WALLIATUR
Ponagudi.....................
x r, to Shivakotay.. •
x r. to Kallel ...
SIRUWYEL
x 2 n. to Kurungulipatti
x 2 n. to KAULIARK0-
WIL, b.
Udivakamma .
Andiyar........
Mangalam ...
Serutanpilli ..
x n. to Kilotra
KANNAMANGALAM ...
Pudu-ar .............. •-
Yelláyangudi ... - - - -
x n. to Väni .......
Andagudi ...........
NINARKOWIL............
Neddamkorchi...............
x n. to Anäsheddivanda
x n. to Pandiár..
Umbaddishâten..............
TORATTIYENDAL,
MUDALUR .............
x Wygay r. to , Kavandr
To the end of a large tank
|
|
||
STAGES.
M. F.
#
11
1
0
1
2
%
12
12
0
:
(". £n. egins,
& W. 0. ..... . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Kuriar............ • * *
Putambal....
x m. to Vennigudi -
x n. to Wellah...............
PLACES,
UTARAKOSHAMANGAI
Nalliyerraka
Andichikolam ..... •
SHEKAL, t. o. .
Killineermangalam...
x n. to Kotankolam
- - -
x n. to Talakayee.........
Shailuvanar............ - - -
Chouky........................
KADDAGUSHANDI.....
x m. and the Kundal-ár
r. 220 yds. wide to
Shayilkudi
Tarrakudi ..
Shewalpatti. -
Boundary.....................
TANGAMAPURAM ......
Shurangudi..................
Chenmugaveram.
Maimanday............
x n. to Idduwanpatti......
x n. to Kalgutam .........
x Vaipár r. 500 yards wide
to WAIPAR, t. o. ......
Rāmachandrapur............
Kollatür ............ -
Venkateshwaram............
WAIDANATTAM .........
x 2 n. to Venkateshwaram
Shanmugaveram............
x 2 n. to Velayidiweram...
x n. to Kakerampatti......
Jailandāveram...............
x n. to WOTTAPADA-
RAM, t. o. ...............
Kolayanellair ....... •-
x 2 n. to Kumbadi.........
x n. to Khandeswāmipur.
PARAGUTTAM
x n. to Maniachi....
Pawani.............
Uterampatti..
Shevellaperri ...............
x 3 m. to SHIVILPERRI
x Tamraparní r. 500 yds.
wide to Kilpatam ......
Tritu-ir .....................
x n thrice to Shettikolam.
(g) To N. Gate Fort, PA-
LIAM-KOTTA (Palam-
kottah), b, & t. o..........
(h) x n to Tamraparní(close
to this is Tinnevelli)....
:
1
1
0
14 4
10 1


Madras. ROUTE 32.–MADRAS To BOMBAY.
147
PLACES, PLACES.
M.
x Chindinthura.r. (bridged) Tädikambu t. o. ............
to Tachakurchi ......... 1 x Kodavenar r. to Gi-
x m. to SHADIKHAN’S riampatti.............. • - e.
CHATTRAM, b........ • Wittanaikenpatti ...........
Pandarakolam...... - - - + Kodavenar r. to Ameå-
Pallakolam .................. bādrampatti...... • * *
x Sitar, r. (bridged) to
Perritikolam...............
x 5 m. to KAITAR PETA,b.
x 2 n. to Saiwallapuri ...
x 2 n. to Asir...............
YERRASHAIWAL ......
Narratumutri .............. •
Maniachi.........
KOILPATTI, b.
x 2 n. to Nelli...
x 2 n. to Urapat
x n. to Allakapuri.........
x n.and Satürr, to SATUR,
b. & t. o. ..................
x n. to Kattalampatti......
x n. to Râmalingapuram..
WAIPALPATTI .........
x r. to Wachakarapatti...
x n. to Rettanaikenpatti
Sulikerraij Agrahāram ....
X n. and r. to WIRDU-
PATTI b. & t. o..........
x n. to Reddiarpatti......
x n. to Boundary and
Awailishwaranpatti.....
x n. to Kallaguri Chat-
tram near Sholampatti..
x n. to Shevarakotta......
x Shevarakottar. to Kond r.
x Kond r. to TIRUMAN-
GALAM b. t. o. .........
Kappalar..............
Kutiarkundu ...
Sikandamallay...... • * * *
Pallanganattam ............
# MADURA b. p. o. ......
Coilmattu ................... •
Kodimangalam ..
x Vaidair. ...
Tiruvadagam ...
SHOLAVANDAN .........
Nachikolam..................
3
AMMAYANYKANURb.t.0.7
x several small n. to Am-
matirra...... - - - - - • * - -
x n, to Dindigal begins....
(j) DINDIGAL ends bit.o.
CHENGOLATAPATTI
WADASANDUR ....... ...
x Kodavenar r. to ruined
Fort........................
x 2 small n. to Wirdapatti
Yettalampatti...............
x n. to Kalwarpatti ..... •
Yeddachi Pass begins......
Ditto ends....................
x m. to ANDIA PATTI
FORT.....................
WAILANCHETTIU'R....
Maitupalli ..................
x Nanganji-ār r. to Tallä-
Vukovil...... • * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
x Nanganji-ár r. to ARA-
WAKURCHI
Karradipatti....... • • •
Kovilpalliam ...............
x Kodavenar r. to Kak-
rampatti ..................
PUTAMBUR CHAT-
TRAM.....................
Chukampatti .. - - -
Pettanar .....................
Râmalingam Chetti Chat-
tram........................
Chellandipalliam....
Tirumanellór .... • * *
(k) × Amråwati r. 13 f.
wide, to KARUR b. i. o.
Arugampalliam .............
Sangarappenpälliam ......
Kupachipälliam ....... • * * * *
x n. to WANGAL .........
x Kávéri r. 14 miles wide
to MOGANUR .........
x Upar r. to Chingikaun-
N' - - - - -
ayikapatti..
£ • * * * * * * * * *
Konichettipatti......
NAMKAL, b. t. o. ...
Chinna Mudellipatti
Pápa Naikenpatti .........
Chillapatti .......... - - -
Kalakani ........ • - - - - - - - - - -
x n. to Wallalanpatti
Pachan..................... * * *
2
STAGES.
. F. M. F.
5
0
3
3
5 9 0
0
4
6
0
4
2
1 11 1
3
7
7
4 6 6
7
0
5
6 10 0
1
5
3
1
6
0 8 0
2
3
6
0 6 3
5 2 5
1
7
7
4
5 12 0
4
4
4
6
6
0


148
Sect. II.
ROUTE 32.-MADRAS To BOMBAY-CHELAMBRAM.
PLACES. STAGES.
M. F. M. F.
x Porangal r, to MUNU
CHAWADI, b, ......... 0 5 13 5
X n. to Andipalliam ...... 26
Iyapálliam ............ ..... 1 6
Attur.......................... 1 7
Komárakaundenwallasia .. 2 1
MALLUR, b....... 1 1 9 5
Attampatti ..... • 1 6
Gajalnaikampatti 2 0
Nellawarpatti ...... ... 1 0
Tandakarampatti............ 2 0
xn.toSalem pettahends,b.p.o. 1 4
x Manimúta r. to SALEM
FORT ..................... 1 *8 3
MACDONALD'S CHA-
WADI, b. ............... 12 7 12 7
SANKERIDRUG, b. t. o. 11 0 110
PALLIAPALLIAM, b.... 11 5 11 5
YIROD (ERODE), b. t. o. 2 1 2 1
PERUNDURE", b. t. o. ... 114 11.4
CHANGAPALLI, b....... 12 4 12 4
AVINASHI, b. t. o. ...... 10 6 10 6
KARMOTTANPATTI... 8 6 8 6
RAMANUJAN CHAT-
TRAM..................... 8 5 8 5
KOIMBATUR, b. p. o.... 8 7 8 7
From Jail to end of the .
town and Rd. to Bhawani 04
x 2 n. to Changanar ...... 2 5
x 3 n. to Tudialúr ......... 3 2
x 2 n. to Narrinaikenpälliam 1 7
x 4 n. to Parnaikenpalliam
GUDULUR, b, ......... 3 4 11 6
Karramaday.......... ** * * * * * * 7 0
METTUPALLIAM, b.t.o. 4 0 11 0
x Bhawāni and Kallar r.
and ascend GHAT to
KUNUR, b t. o.......... 14 2 14 2
x n. to Yebbadalla......... 26
Yellalli-Kaikatti ......... 1 7
Kaiti....................... ... 1 5
(l) Ascend a steep Rd. to
UTAKAMAND, p. o.... 4 0 10 2
844 0
UTAKAMAND to HONA-
WAR f..................... 545 4
HONAWAR to BOMBAY 340 0
1729 4
* For remarks relating to this and ten fol-
lowing stages, see Route 34.
f For this part of the Route, see Route 47.
For the stations to Porto Novo see
Route 11, of which this is a continuation.
Thus far the traveller's route has been
by the sea side, within a mile or so of
the shore; hence it turns W. into the
interior. Many of the chief halting
£ as far as Kārūr, are distinguished
the most remarkable remains of
inda architecture, properly so called,
which have descended to our days, so that
this journey alone will amply repay the
traveller for the labor and inconveni-
ences of his pilgrimage from Europe to
the East, and afford him materials for
long study and reflection.
(a) Chelambram.—At Chelambram or
Chillambaram are the oldest pagodas
in the S. of India, and part of these
are gems of art. These temples are
situated three miles S. of the Wallar
river, and 29 miles N. of Tranquebar,
in lat. 11° 25', long. 79° 45'. Here
is placed by some the N. frontier of
the ancient Chola kingdom, the suc-
cessive capitals of which were Uriyar
on the Kávéri, Kumbhakonam, and
Tanjar. Others carry the frontier as
high as the S. Pennár river, which falls
into the sea a few miles N. of Gadalúr.
The principal temple is sacred to Shiva,
and is affirmed to have been erected, or
at least embellished, by a king named
Hiranya Varna Chakravartti, or “the
golden-coloured Emperor,” who is said
to have been afflicted with leprosy, and
to have come S. on a pilgrimage. He
recovered at Chelambram, and built or
rebuilt all the sacred edifices there.
Now, since this name occurs in the
Rājā Tarangini, or Chronicles of Kash-
mir, as that of a king whose father con-
quered Ceylon, it has been thought that
it was really a Kashmir prince who
erected these buildings or their proto-
types, and that the said event occurred
about A.D. 471. He is said to have
brought 3000 brahmans from the N.
with him. It is added in one of the
Mackenzie MSS. that Wira Chola Rājā
(A.D. 927–977), saw the Sabhapati, i.e.
Shiva dance on the sea-shore with his
wife Pârvati, and erected the Kanak
Sabhá or Golden Shrine in honor of the
god. There is, in fact, an old legend
that Shiva here vanquished his wife


---mm-
Madras.
Kálí in dancing, and granted her as a
boon, to sweeten the defeat, that all evil
spirits should be banished from the
neighbourhood, and that she alone
should be supreme over it. Afterwards,
Ari Vari Deva, grandson of Vira Chola
Rājá, built gopuras and other orna-
mental additions to the temple. Finally,
the Chola kings, from A.D. 1695–1785,
made many donations to the fane, and
probably repaired and beautified it.
Possibly, therefore, there may be re-
mains #: of the 5th century; and,
assuredly, there is much that dates as
far back as the 10th and 11th. Even
Lord Walentia remarks that the archi-
tecture has a more ancient appearance
than that of Tanjór or Rāmeshwaram;
and Mr. Fergusson infers the same,
independently of historical accounts,
from its surpassing excellence.
It is to be remarked with regard to
all Hindá pagodas that the vimāna or
sacred shrine to which the other build-
ings lead, is almost invariably an in-
significant structure compared with the
gigantic gopuras, or gateways and halls,
which surround it. This arises, an
acute observer informs us, from the
original fane being thought too sacred
to be enlarged or modified. The great
temple at Chelambram is no exception
to this rule. The adytum, or inmost
sanctuary, cannot be profaned by Euro-
ean eyes, but externally it consists of a
ow wall, surmounted with an ugly and
prodigiously heavy curvilinear roof, tiled
with copper. This sanctuary stands in
an inner enclosure, which is about
400 ft. square; and within the same
enclosure, and just opposite, is a little
shrine, of £ Mr. Fergusson (from
whom the chief part of this description
is quoted), says, “It is without excep-
tion the most perfect gem of art which
I saw in the South. All that remains of
it is a small porch of two pillars, about
6 ft. in height, supporting a roof of
richly sculptured copper, mounted on a
stylobate, covered with figures of men
and women dancing and playing on
various instruments, executed with a
freedom and grace quite equal to any-
thing either at Barolli or Elára. In-
ROUTE 32.-MADRAS TO
deed, I am not certain if there is not
BOMBAY-CHELAMBRAM. 149
more animation in their attitudes, and
more grace in the grouping, than in
almost any Hindú sculpture I ever saw.”
The inner enclosure is placed towards
the S. end of a much larger one, which
is 1000 ft. long N. and S., and 750
ft. broad at the N. extremity; but
narrows to 600 ft. at the S. end. This
larger enclosure has four magnificent
gopuras, of which the principal is 122
ft. high, or, according to some, nearly
200, the side pieces being huge stones,
40 ft. long and 5 ft. square, covered
with copper. The doorway, which ex-
tends up the greater £ of the height,
is built of granite, and is ornamented as
if it had two stories, but the building is
solid, with the exception of a recess on
each side of the gateway, and a stair-
case leading to the top of the same.
The gateway is surmounted as usual
with a pyramid of brick. On each side
of the entrance, about 20 ft. from the
ground, is a brick chamber containing
a mutilated figure of a dwārpálah, or
“warder.” The four gopuras are placed
towards the four cardinal points of the
compass. This court is called the Hall
of One Thousand Pillars, though in
point of fact there are but 936, but these
are amply sufficient to create a magnifi-
cent impression. The columns are but
six or eight ft. apart, as at Persepolis.
There are six rows, then steps, then five
rows; on each side are stone galleries
supported by square pillars, for specta-
tors on festal days. The shrine of
Pârvati, Shiva's wife, is here. The
goddess reclines under a golden tent
with superb fringes. The portico to
her temple is very beautiful. Without
this court is still another, which is, how-
ever, unfinished, and its beauty is de-
stroyed by its gateways having been
converted by Haidar 'Ali and Tipú into
bastions during the war with the Eng-
lish. In 1760 it was surrendered to
the British without firing a shot, but in
1781, having been materially strength-
ened by Haidar, and garrisoned with
3,000 good troops, it repulsed the attack
of Sir Eyre Coote, who was obliged to
retire with the loss of a gun.
The traveller's banglá at Chelam-
bram is at the entrance of the town.


150
RoUTE 32.—MADRAs To BoMBAY-KUMBHAKONAM. Sect. II.
The pagoda itself is but a short way
from the principal street, and an avenue
of overarching palms leads to it. The
towers are covered with successive series
of figures, each series about 5 feet high.
The whole temple covers 50 acres.
Three thousand brahmans are said to be
supported there.
(b) Tallangambadi (Tranquebar: prop.,
according to Hamilton, Tarangiburi, but
rather a corruption of Tallangambadi),
is a town of about 25,000 inhabitants, in
lat. 11° 1', long. 79° 55'. A Danish East
India Company was established at Co-
penhagen in 1612, and the first Danish
merchantman arrived on the Coromandel
coast in 1616, when the company pur-
chased the village of Tranquebar with a
small district around it, 5 m. long and 3
m. broad, from the Rājā of Tanjūr. Here
the Danes erected the fort of Dansborg,
and the settlement increased rapidly,
However, in 1624 the Company made
over their charter and this territory to
Christian IV., in liquidation of £
which they owed to that monarch. In
1807 the British took possession of this
and all the other Danish settlements in
India, and restored them again in 1814.
Finally, in 1845 the King of Denmark
ceded the territory to the £ for a
sum of money. In 1780 Haidar 'Ali
exacted a fine of £14,000 from the
Danish government of Tranquebar for
supplying the Núwäb of the Karnātak
with arms. Tranquebar is reckoned a
very healthy station and much cooler
than Madras, and it has therefore been
made a convalescent depôt. The coun-
try around is well-wooded and culti-
wated; the soil light and sandy.
(c) Kumbhakonam.—A tolerable road,
in parts heavy, leads through the villages
of Perambúr and Sátentir to the consi-
derable town of Kumbhakonam (Comba-
conum), from Skr. kumbhah, “a water-
pitcher,” and konah, “a corner;” which
is the capital of a very fertile district of
Tanjūr, and a Civil and Detachment Sta-
tion. No sooner has the traveller
crossed the Wellàr river near Chelam-
bram than he perceives the contrast be-
tween the rich soil of the Tanjūr coun-
try he there enters and the sterility of S.
Arcot, which he there quits. The dis-
trict of Kumbhakonam, situated in the
richest part of the Tanjūr province and
intersected in all directions by the Ko-
lerun and Kävéri rivers, presents all the
appearance of a garden. It extends 20
m. E. and W. 30 m. N. and S. ap-
proaching in some parts within 10 m. of
the sea. Here are seen luxuriant crops
of rice and sugar-cane, varied with
flourishing plantations of cocoa-nut and
betel trees, plantains, etc.
About 12 m. from Kumbhakonam a
celebrated Anakatt is thrown over the
Wellár river, the work of Colonel Cot-
son. Kumbhakonam itself is a town of
about 35,000 inhabitants, extending two
miles in length from N. to S., and one
in breadth from E. to W., and possess-
ing several wide and airy streets, in
which the houses have upper stories.
It lies thirty miles from the sea, in a
flat country. The Kāvéri and Arra-
silliyar rivers approach the suburbs. It
is a place of great traffic and resort for
religious purposes. After Uriar, the
ancient capital of the Chola kings, had
been destroyed, as the legend declares,
by a shower of mud which overwhelmed
it some time in the fifth century, Kum-
bhakonam became their chief city. From
the ruins of ancient buildings which
have been employed in the construction
of those now existing in the town, and
which appear like a purpureus pannus
in their new position, it may be con-
jectured that under the Chola dynasty
this city was adorned with many fine
edifices. The temples now existing are
not, however, of remarkable beauty, and
in all £ do not date higher
than the sixteenth century. In the
principal one, dedicated to Rāma, and
now squalid with filth and disfigured
with unsightly mud walls built up
within, the centre aisle, 22ft, 8in. wide,
is crossed by another of the same width
and design, like the transept of a
Gothic church. The designs of the
pillars and the execution of the details
are clumsy, and they are too thickly
overlaid with ornaments. Some of the
gopuras at this and the other tem-
ples are fine, but they are, as usual,
too vast in comparison with the build-
ings to which they lead. In all, there


Madras.
151
RoUTE 32.—MADRAs To BOMBAY-TANJüR.
are about forty pagodas. There is here
a sacred pool, which once in every twelve
years acquires a peculiar cleansing effi-
cacy, inasmuch as it removes all the
corporeal and spiritual impurities of
those who bathe in it, even those con-
tracted in prior existences. Hence arises
the high importance of the place to the
Hindui devotee,
There is a very large gaol at Kumbha-
konam, where sometimes 500 prisoners
are confined. The population of the
whole district, of which Kumbhakonam
is the capital, may be computed at
135,000 persons.
Pápandsham, the intermediate station
between Kumbhakonam and Tanjar, is
a large place. The road is good, and
the water-courses and canals are every-
where bridged,
(d) Tanjur (prop. Tanja-ir) is a city of
about 90,000 inhabitants, situated in lat.
10° 47', long. 79° 12", 47 miles from the
sea, in the midst of an extensive plain.
It is the residence of a Hinda Rājā,
a descendant of Shahji, father of the
celebrated Sivaji. That famous Maratha
chieftain had three sons, of whom the
eldest, Sambhaji, was killed on service
in the S. of India. The second, Sivaji,
in 1664 laid the foundation of the
Maratha empire. The third, Ekoji or
Venkaji, is said by Wilks and others to
have conquered Tanjar; but, according
to the Marātha accounts, as stated by
Grant Duff, he merely succeeded his
father, Shahji, in that province. As
Sháhji is known to have taken Porto
Novo in 1661, it is probable that Tanjūr
fell into his power about the same time.
We know, indeed, that he went as
second in command of the forces of
the Muhammadan king of Bijapur when
Ran Dulha Khán, the general of that
monarch, invaded the Karnātak in 1638,
and that he was left as governor of the
conquered provinces, residing for some
time at Bengalúr, and afterwards at
Kolár and Bālapur. We may suppose
that he did but exact tribute of the
Naik of Tanjar, and that his son Ekoji,
the Ankoji of Scott, and the Venkaji of
Grant Duff, completed what his father
had begun. This he is said to have
done on occasion of a war between the
chiefs of Tanjir and Madura, when
he was sent by Shahji to aid the former.
After repulsing the Madura forces, Ekoji
fixed a quarrel upon the Tanjūr chief
with reference to his remuneration, and,
entering the fort with 100 horsemen as
if for a conference, slew the Rājā and
usurped the government. Ekoji left
three sons, Shahji, Sharfoji, and Tukoji,
who succeeded to the rājāship in suc-
cession. These brothers all left chil-
dren, and, after several irregular succes-
sions, one of them, Sahuji, being
dethroned in favor of his cousin, Pratāp
Sing, came in 1749 to Fort St. David
and besought the English to assist him.
There can be no doubt that the British
government had no right to interfere;
but, lured by the promise of a large sum
of money and the cession of Devikóta,
a fort at the mouth of the Kolerun
river, they undertook to reinstate the
Tanjúrine. Accordingly a force of 430
Europeans and 1,000 Sipáhis, with four
field pieces and four mortars, marched
from Fort St. David, and on the 13th
of April encamped on the bank of the
river Valar. Here they were overtaken
by the terrible hurricane, which has
already been described (under Gūdalár).
After an ineffectual bombardment of
Deviköta and the loss of 400 of their
camp followers, the force made a pre-
cipitate retreat to Fort St. David.
In spite of this failure another expedi-
tion was immediately undertaken, under
£ Lawrence, who was sent by sea
with all the Company's available troops,
amounting to 800 Europeans and 1,500
Sipahis, to besiege Devikóta. The fort
was a mile in circumference, with six
unequal sides, the walls being 18 feet
high, built of brick, and flanked by
projecting towers, some circular and
some square. The English, with four
24-pounders, made a practicable breach
across the river, which they crossed on
a raft, not without loss. The storming
party of 34 Europeans and 700 Sipahis
was led by Clive, then a lieutenant, who
advanced briskly with the Europeans,
but the Sipahis failed to support him.
Their rear being thus left unguarded,
the little company of English were
charged by a body of Tanjarine horse,


~i
152
and 26 out of the 34 were killed. Clive
narrowly escaped being cut down, and
ran back to the Sipahis. Lawrence
then advanced with his whole force, and
effected an entrance into the fort, which
was evacuated by the enemy. After
some further unimportant operations,
the Governor of Fort St. David con-
cluded a_treaty with Pratap Sing, the
Riija of Tan'iir, by which the English
acquired Devi 6ta,with territo enough
to produce a yearly revenue o 31,000
rupees, at the same time that the ex-
penscs of the war were reimbursed to
them, and a pension of 4000 rupees a
year was settled on their protegée,
Sahuji.
At the end of the same year Tanjfir
was besieged b the French and their
ally, Chanda $a_ib, Niiwab of the Kar-
natak. The Raja got rid of his as-
sailants by agreein to pay 7,000,000
of rupees to the iiwab, and 200,000
to the French, besides ceding to them
the ort of Karikal and 81 villages.
The, atter of these sums, and some 01‘-
tion of the former, were actually eli-
vered over, when a rumour of the a -
preach of Nagir Jan s army from Go -
konda. induced the esiegers to retreat.
On the 18th of July, 1758, Tanjfir was
again besieged by the French, under
Lally, who raised the siege on the 10th
of August, and was much harassed by
the Tanjiiriiies in his retreat. In 1771
the Raye. of Tanjfir incurred the dis-
pleasure of the British, in consequence
of an attack made by him on the chief
of Rfimnad, or, as he is generall called,
the Marawar Pol gar, and w o was
maintained by the n lish to be a feud-
atory of their all , t e Nfiwab of the
Karnfitak. On t e 23rd of September
of that year the En lish appeared be-
fore T8.Xl_]flI‘, and on 516 27th of October
a practicable breach was reported. Be-
fore the assault, however, the Nfiwab
concluded a eace with the Raja, on
condition of is paying 301,» luks of
rupees, and restoring all the territor-
he had taken from the Marawar chic .
But, notwithstandin this treaty, the
Niiwiib was secretly esirous of roent-
inglthe complete subjugation of anjiir
to imself by means of his En lish allies.
Tu 1773 he again instigate them to
ROUTE 32*-MADRAS T0 BOMBAY—"1‘ANJI’>'R.

Sect. II.
advance against the unfortunate Raja,
and on the 16th of September, after
nearly a month's siege, the English
troops carried the Fort, and made pri-
soners of the Rajéi and his family, who,
together with the whole province, were
handed over to the N cwsb.
But the Court of Directors disapproved
of this unjust war, and directed the Raja
to be reinstated, on condition of his re-
ceiving a garrison of the Company's
troops into the fort, providing lands for
their support, paying tribute to the
Nfiwab, and furnishing him with such
troops as, backed by the Company’s
authority, he might demand. It was
added that he should contract no
alliances with foreign powers, without
the approbation of the English. These
terms were acted u on, but such dis-
putes arose in the onncil at Fort St.
David’s, pending their execution, that
the Governor, Lord Pigot, was arrested
by command of his own Council, and
died in confinement. In 1786 died
the Raja Tulsaji, son and successor of
Pratéip Sing above-mentioned, after
adopting a boy named Sharfoji, to the
exclusion of his own half-brother, Amar
Sing. The adoption, however, was de-
clared by the English illcgal, and Amar
Sing was suffered to reign till 1798,
when Sharfo"i was pronounced legally
adopted; an on the 25th of October,
1798, a treaty was concluded with him
by the Company, according to which he
resigned all powers of overnment to the
English, retaining tie two Forts of
Tanjiir (where alone he could exercise
sovereign power), and sundry palaces,
together with an annual revenue of
350,000 rupees, and one-fifth of the re-
mainder of the whole net revenue of the
country, amounting to 700,000 more,
as well as the Danish tribute from Tran-
quebar, about 5,000 rupees. Sharfo'i
was educated at Madras, and afterwar
by the missionary Schwartz, to whom
he was sincerely attached. Indeed, the
funeral of Schwartz was delayed in order
that the Rcja might gaze on his face
once more ere the cofiiii was closed. At
the sight of the lifeless form of his
guardian, the Prince was painfully
agitated. He bedewcd the corpse with
tears, covered it with a cloth of gold,


-~
Madras.
and, in spite of the defilement (accord-
ing to Hindu belief), accompanied it to
the ave. He was brought up among
.Christians, yet he ever remained a Hindu
in religion, and a munificent patron of
brahmans. He was an accomplished
musician and linguist, reading daily the
En lish newspapers and litght literature,
am? in the management o his revenue
he displa ed all the prudence, libe-
rality, an exactness of the most saga-
cious English nobleman. It is he of
whom Lord Valentia s eaks with so
much praise in 1804, and eber again in
1826. He died in 1832, and was suc-
ceeded by his son Sivaji, the late Ra'a,
who died in 1855, when the dignity lie-
came extinct, and all the jewels and
roperty of Sivaji were seized by the
om any, though the Raja left two
dau ters.
T e two Forte of Tanjfir are so con-
nected that they may almost be regarded
as one. The smaller one lies to the S.,
and near its most S. wall is the great
pagoda. On this side also were the
attacks of the French in 1758, and of
the English in 1771. On the W. is a
large tank, about 400 yds. square. On
the N. this fort joins the larger, being
itself about 600 yards in its greatest
length from its most S. angle to where
it Joins the larger fort. From this
point, again, to its most extreme N.
wall, the larger fort is about 1,I00 yds.
long. It is of a circular form, whereas
the smaller fort is aparallelogram. The
walls of both are lofty, and built of large
stones; on the corners of the ramparts
are cavaliers; the ditch is broad and
deep, cut out of the solid rock, and has
a well-formed glacis.
The Palace of the Ra_'ja' is in the great
fort, almost in the centre. It is an old
building with several lofty towers, and
surrounded by a high wall. The great
square, which is first entered, has never
been finished. The passa cs leading to
the Darbar, or Diwau-i-lass, Private
Hall of Audience, are narrow, and the
room itself is not large, but very cool,
as it forms one side 0 11 square, which
is nearl filled by a tank, in the centre
of whie is a small apartment reached
from the audience chamber by steps.
There is a library in the palace hung
ROUTE 32.—MADRAS 1'0 BOMBAY——T.{N'Jl‘lR.

153
with portraits of the Tanjfir princes of
the Maratha dynasty, from Sivaji down-
wards. The pictures are by a native
artist, painted on canvass from drawings
on the walls of the palace now going to
decay. There is a disused audience
chamber, which was built by the an-
cient Ra'éis, who preceded Ekoji. It
far excee in size and magnificence that
erected by their Maratha conquerors.
The pillars are of black stone, lofty and
massive; and the roof is formed by vast
masses of the same material. It forms
one side of a quadrangle like the other
darbar, but is surrounded by pillars,
and has on one side a high tower like
the gateway of a agoda, which adds
greatl to itsma niiibence. This apart-
ment as been isused, as the first Ma-
ratha prince died a few days after he
took his seat in it.
The great Payoda is considered to
be the finest ccimen of a pyramidal
tem lc in Hin fistau. The tower over
the imanam, or shrine, is 100 ft. high,
and is capped with a block of granite
which is said to weigh 80 tons. The
exterior court is about 570 ft. long from
E. to W., and about 200 ft. broad. Oppo-
site the gateway of the pagoda is a pyra-
midal building nearly similar, on the
ramparts, about 270 ft. long and 110 ft.
broad. In the porch is a bull, the sacred
vehicle of Shiva, carved out of black
granite, and executed in a style unsur-
passed in India. The ground plan is a
parallelogram, the tower being at the \V.
extremity. N o European is allowed to
examine the interior ; but, by mounting
a part of the ramparts higher than the
enclosure of the temple, a view may be
obtained, which will well repay the tra-
veller for his visit. In the foreground
is the great pagoda; behind this is the
large fort, with the Raja’s palace and
pagoda; beyond these again a country
smiling with grain and loaded with fruit
trees, and in rear of all a chain of lofty
hills.
The province of which Tanjfir is the
capital is 120 miles long from N .E. to
S.W., and 75 miles broad. It contains
3,900 square miles, with a population
of 1,676,086, or 429 to the square mile,
by the census of_ 1850-61.
The road from Tanjfir to Trichina-


154
Sect. II
RouTE 32-MADRAs To BoMBAY-TRICHINARALLI.
palli is excellent. Wellam, the first halt-
ing place, is a small town, the residence
of an assistant-collector. There is a fort
here, which is said to have been a place
of some strength, yet it was easily taken
in 1771 by the English after 24 hours
battering. Singapatti and Tuwagadi
are small villages. At the latter place
good drinking-water is deficient.
(e) Trichindpalli is a town, exclusive
of the troops and officials of the E. I.
Company, of about 30,000 inhabitants,
and of these one-fifth are Muhamma-
dans. It is situated on the right bank
of the Kávéri, in lat. 10° 50', long.
71° 46', and is the capital of a Col-
lectorate containing 3,243 square miles,
with a population of 709,196 persons, or
219 to the square mile.
The Fort, which includes the old town
of Trichinápalli, is about two or three
furlongs from the S.W. bank of the river
Kávéri, at the nearest point, and is a
place of £ antiquity. The flag-staff
is placed on the summit of a rock of
granite, rising to a height of about 500
ft. (or 330 ft. according to Pharoah's
Gazetteer), called the “Rock of Trichind-
palli,” which is seen in every direction
from a great distance, and forms a grand
and striking object. From the W. it
resembles Edinburgh Castle. There is
easy access from the S. side to the flag-
staff, by means of a spacious flight of
stone steps, which, about halfway up,
crosses the site of an old magazine,
which was accidentally blown up in
1772. Here, in 1849, 500 persons were
crushed to death in a vast crowd which
had assembled to worship Pilliar or
Ganesh in a pagoda on the summit.
From the summit there is a com-
manding view of the country around,
including the island of Seringham, with
its numerous pagodas and the windings
of the Kávéri and Kolerun rivers. In
the distance, on the W. and N., are seen
the Shivarai hills, and the mountains
near Salem, which divide Maisar from
the Karnātak. In the other quarters
there is a beautiful prospect over waving
fields of grain and a country diver-
sified with hill and dale, wood, and
stream, The walls of the fort were
built of solid masonry, strong and mas-
sive, but having become in some places
rather dilapidated, were, in 1845, or-
dered to be £ a work which has
been commenced. They are in certain
parts double, from 20 to 30 ft. in height,
of great thickness, with a circuit of
upwards of two miles. They contain a
dense native population in low, narrow
huts and houses, closely packed toge-
ther. The streets, however, are toler-
ably regular and straight, and of a fair
' and at all hours of the # they
are crowded with multitudes of pas-
sengers, bullock-carts, and cattle.
he Pay-office, Arsenal, Garrison
Hospital, and the Commissariat, Ord-
nance, and Medical Storehouses, are in
the fort near the mainguard. To the N.
of the fort and between it and the Kā-
véri is the village of Chintamanipét.
Parallel with the flagstaff to the W., at
the distance of about two miles from
the fort, is the village of Uriar, with
the old Artillery Barracks and Parade
Ground, Close under the W. wall of
the fort, a little to the S. of the above, is
Názir Sáhib's bázár. A little further
to the S. and 13 mile from the W. wall
are the Native Regimental and General
Bázárs, with the Native Infantry Bar-
racks and Parade Ground. S. of these
runs a stream separating them from the
£ Artillery Barracks, the Euro-
pean Infantry Barracks, and the Cavalry
Barracks, which succeed one another
from W. to E. at the distance of about
two miles from the fort. S.W. of all is
St. John's Church; then, eastward, the
commanding officer's house and other
barracks for native infantry. The lines
for the men and the officer's houses
cover a space of ground not less than six
or seven miles in circumference. Many
of the houses occupied by the military
officers and civilians are large and ele-
gant, and have extensive well-wooded
gardens. The house of the general
£ the division is a lofty and
spacious building. The force generally
consists of one regiment of native ca-
valry, one company of European foot
artillery, one regiment of H.M. in-
fantry, and four regiments of native
infantry. The native infantry corps fur-
nish detachments in rotation to Tanjūr,


Madras.
155
noun: 32.—ii.ipn.ls ro noixnir--rnrcniimiririi.
Kumbhakonam, and N agapatnain; and
occasionall to Koimbatiir, amounting
in all to om four to six companies,
which are relieved twice every year.
St. JoIm’s Church is a handsome
building, affording ample accommoda-
tion for the European inhabitants and
troops, and service is regularl per-
formed twice every Sunday. The c urch-
yard is a spacious enclosure, thickly
studded with tombs. This church is
rendered interesting, by the fact that in it
Bishop Heber preached his last sermon,
his career having been suddenly ter-
minated at Trichinapalli on the 3rd of
April, 1826. His remains are interred
near the altar; a mural tablet with a
short and simple inscription marks the
s ot.
pThere is a small Roman Catholic
Chapel and burying ground in the W.
outskirts of the cantonment, at which a
Portuguese priest officiates, as at other
European stations throughout the Presi-
dency. There is also a large missionary
chapel in the fort.
The natives of Trichinapalli have long
been famed for their skill in the manu-
facture of hardware, cutle , and jewel-
le ,espcciallygo1dchains. heirharness
an saddlery are also excellent, both as
to workmanship and materials, and very
cheap. Large quantities of cheroots are
made here from tobacco of superior
quality grown in the neighbouring dis-
tricts.
During eight months of the year the
climate of Trichinapalli is exceedingly
sultry. In March, April, and Ma ,
vegetation is burnt up, and the who e
country wears the appearance of a desert.
Yet the Collectorate is well-watered b
rivers. The Kavéri, entering at the .
extremity, passes E. to the sea, and near
Seringham divides into two branches, of
which the N. is called the Kolerun and
the S. the Kavéri. The river is at its
lowest during the three months preced-
ing June, when the inundation caused
by the S.W. moonsoon fills it to over-
flowing, as well as all the tanks and
canals along its course.
Insects and noxious reptiles are exces-
sively troublesome in this Collectorate :
in particular ants, white, black, and red
abound. Scorpions, too, and snakes are
very common ; and the deadly cobra de
Manilla is often found in houses, as well
as, though more rarely, the cobra de
Capella.
Trichinapalli early figured in the wars
which the English and French waged
for the possession of the Karnatak. In
1736, the Rajii, who was a tributary to
the N fiwab of the Karnatak, died; and,
of his three queens, two underwent
cremation. The third refused to be-
come a sati, and assumed the govern-
ment. In the disputes that ensued,
$afdar ’Ali, the N uwab’s son, and
Chanda Sahib, his Diwan, found means
to enter the city; the Diwan swearing
to be faithful to the Queen. As soon,
however, as he had got a secure footing
in the place, he seized the government
and imprisoned the Rani. On the 26th
of March, 1741, the Marathas took the
city from Chanda Sahib after a siege of
three months, slew his two brothers, and
carried himself prisoner to Satara. In
August, 1743, Murari Rao, the Maratha
Governor, surrendered Trichinapalli to
the Ni_7,fim. In 1751, the French and
Chanda Sahib laid siege to it, and Clive
took a conspicuous part in the defence.
The siege ended disastrously for the be-
siegers. After seven months spent in
ineffectual operations, the French under
M. Law surrendered, to the number of
35 officers, 785 Europeans, and 2000
Sipahis, with 54 pieces of artillcrv.
Chanda $al_iib gave himself up to
Manikji, the Tanj urine general, who cut
off his head and sent it to the Niiwab.
After this success, the English gar-
rison of Trichinapalli was exposed to
the attacks of a new enemy, the Regent
of Maisfir, who, supported by the
French and the Marathas, long be-
leaguered the place. On the 20th of
Sept., 1753, Major Lawrence, the Eng-
lish commander, defeated the French
and Maisiireans in the battle of “the
Sugarloaf Rock," in which he captured
11 guns, and killed or took prisoners
300 Europeans. On the 27th of Nov.
of the same year, the French, having
been reinforced, attempted to storm
Trichinapalli, but were repulsed with
the loss of nearly 500 Europeans killed


156
Sect. II.
RouTE 32-MADRAs To BoMBAY-TRICHINAPALLI.
or taken prisoners. On the 12th of
May next year, the French, with their
native allies, amounting in all, it is
said, to upwards of 15,000 men, were
defeated by an English force of 1,500
Sipahis and 360 Europeans. In 1757,
M. D'Auteuil, with 1000 Europeans,
150 hussars, 3000 Sipahis, and 10 guns,
advanced again upon Trichinápalli,
which was left with a weak garrison
during the absence of Capt. Calliaud,
the commanding officer. Calliaud,
however, executed an unexpected and
difficult march through swampy rice-
fields, in which his progress did not,
with all his exertions, exceed a mile an
hour, and relieved the place, the French
General retiring at once upon Pondi-
cheri, In 1700, the principal army in-
tended to operate against Tipu, amount-
ing to 15,000 men, assembled at Tri-
chinápalli, and it was there that General
Medows assumed the command of it.
The island of Shrirangam (vulg. Se-
ringham), “the divine Vishnu,” which
lies 1% mile to the N. of Trichiná-
palli, and is washed on all sides by
the Kolerun and Kávéri rivers, is well
worthy of a visit on account of the
two celebrated pagodas there. The
island is about 14 m. long and 2 broad
at its greatest width. ear the E.
extremity is an immense mound 50 ft.
broad at the top, raised to prevent the
water of the Kāvéri, the channel of
which is 20 ft. higher than that of the
Kolerun, from flowing into that branch.
A mile from the W. extremity is the
Shrirangam Pagoda, one of the largest
in India, and consisting of seven courts,
of which the outer one is 900 ft. from
E. to W., and 650 ft. from N. to S.
The gateways of this court are all un-
finished, and of some only the base has
been erected and the door posts set up;
but even these, being blocks of granite
40 ft. in length, have a grand appear-
ance. Mr. Fergusson, in his Ancient
Architecture, has given a view of the
most finished gateway, of which only
the lower part is complete, being about
60 ft. high. Had it been finished with
the usual pyramid of brick, he calculates
it would have risen to a height of 300 ft.
Even now it is a very noble edifice-
130 ft. in width and 100 ft. in depth,
the opening of the gateway being 20 ft.
6 in. in the clear, and more than twice
that in height. The architecture is £
and good, but wholly unadorned wit
figures. The next four courts are simply
fine but unornamented granite walls.
The sixth court contains the great hall,
165 paces by 47, but not more than 15
or 20 ft. high. This court also con-
tains a fine mandapam, with a noble
centre aisle at least 30 ft. high, crossed
at right angles by another of similar
dimensions. The gateways also are fine.
The seventh or innermost enclosure con-
tains a small vimāna with a gilt dome.
Strangers are not allowed to enter. The
whole building is conjectured to belong
to the 14th or 15th century.
About a mile further E. is the smaller
but older and handsome Pagoda of
Jambukeshwar, “Lord of the rose-
apple,” dedicated to Shiva, to whom
that fruit is sacred. It possesses only
three courts, but these are much larger
than the inner ones of the other temple;
and, being built on a uniform and
well-arranged plan, ' a finer
effect. It probably belongs to the 12th
century, and must have been com-
leted before the larger pagoda was
egun. The inner enclosure externally
presents only a high wall, and has but
one gopura. The next, or middle court,
is a fine building, surrounded on all
sides by a colonnaded, cloister, with a
very handsome porch, in the form of a
cross, leading from the gateway to that
of the inner enclosure. Attached to it
is a baoli, or well of masonry, the water
of which remains always at the same
level, however much is drawn from it.
As this level, however, is that of the
river which surrounds the island, this
fact may easily be accounted for, with-
out having recourse to the miracle by
which the brâhmans explain it.
The outer court contains, on the left
hand, the hall of a thousand columns,
here consisting of 800; and, on the
right hand, a tank, round which runs a
two-storied cloister. The effect of the
whole building is exceedingly striking,
and it may be looked upon as a perfect
specimen of a Tamil temple,


Madras.
157
RouTE 32.—MADRAS TO BoMBAY-TRICHINKPALLI.
Where the Kāvéri separation takes
place, at the W. end of Shrirangam, a
work of considerable magnitude and im-
ortance was erected some years ago,
£ as the Upper Anakatt. For many
ears past it had been observed that the
ed of the Kolerun was gradually deep-
ening, while that of the other branch
was rising; and the effect of the change
was a constantly increasing difficulty in
securing sufficient water in the Kāvéri
for the irrigation of Tanjir. Various
expedients were adopted from time to
time to arrest the evil, but with only
partial and temporary effects. At this
uncture, Colonel A. T. Cotton of the
£, proposed an Anakatt across
the head of the Kolerun, which was ac-
cordingly constructed in 1836, and it
has completely answered the important
end in view. Not only was the down-
ward progress of Tanjór arrested, but
signal improvement has followed: the
irrigation was rendered both more abun-
dant and less fluctuating, and both the
Government revenue from the province
and the prosperity of its inhabitants
have attained a higher point than at
any former time.
Some years after the Anakatt came
into operation, its effect was found to be
even too powerful; the bed of the
Kávéri river was being deepened, and
it was feared that ultimately the quan-
tity of water poured into Tanjar would
be too great. To avert this danger,
an Anakatt on a level with the bed
was constructed in 1845 across the head
of the Kávéri. This prevents the lower-
ing of the bed; and, by means of this
# the undersluices in the upper Kolerun
Anakatt, the river is now effectually
under command.
The whole Anakatt across the Kolerun,
and excluding the sole or flooring across
the Kávéri, consists of three parts, being
broken by two islands, one 70, the other
50 yds., wide. The south part is 282
yds. in length, the centre 350, and the
north 122; total, including the islands,
874 yds: or, exclusive of the interven-
ing islands, the clear length of the
Anakat itself is 754 yds. It is simply
a plain brick wall six ft, thick and seven
ft. high, the crown being covered with
cut stone, to resist the friction of the
water and sand passing over it. It is
founded on two rows of wells sunk
nine ft. below the bed of the river,
and protected from the overfall by
an apron or pavement of cut stone,
from 21 to 40 ft. broad, the outer edge
of which rests as a foundation on a
single row of wells; and, further, is
secured as an exterior defence by a second
apron from 6 to 10 yds. wide, formed
of large masses of rough stone, thrown
in loosely without cement of any kind.
A similar work of rough stone extends
along the entire front or ' side, to
protect the foundation of the body of
the Anakatt.
There are 24 sluices distributed at un-
equal distances along the weir, the
largest being 7 by 2 ft., which are very
effectual in keeping the bed of the river
above the Anakatt free from accumula-
tions of sand and mud. The sluices are
connected by a narrow bridge of brick,
consisting of 62 arches of 33 ft. span
and 6 ft. rise. The piers of this struc-
ture, built on the Anakatt, are 63 ft.
high and 5 ft. thick. The breadth
across the soffit of the arches is 8 ft. 3 in.,
and the roadway within the parapets is
6 ft. 9 in. The object of constructing
the bridge having been principally to
secure access to the sluices during floods,
and there being no great thoroughfare
across the river at this point, a greater
breadth of roadway was unnecessary;
but the communication is very useful
for foot passengers and cattle.
The cost of this work, from its con-
struction in 1836 to the year 1850, in-
cluding all repairs, was about 2,00,000
rupees, or £20,000. The extent of land
influenced by it is about 600,000 acres,
yielding a revenue of £300,000 annually,
which is steadily increasing.
The lower Anakatt is built across the
same river in the Trichinápalli district,
60 miles further to the eastward. This
work also, though standing within the
Trichinápalli district, was not designed
for its benefit, but for that of Tanjar
and S. Arcot, more particularly the
latter. It was built like the upper
Anakatt in 1836, and also under the
advice of Colonel A. Cotton. The chief


~_
158
use of it is to su ply the Vfranam tank
in S. Arcot, an to water the two S.
taluks of that Collectorate, Chelam-
bram and Manargudi.—(See Gazetteer of
Southern India).
After crossing the Koray-fir river, 7
miles from Trichinapalli, the traveller
enters the country of the Tondiman
Rajd, sometimes called, from the chief
town, Pudukota (New Fort). This
country is bounded on the E. b Tanjiir,
and on the S. and W. by Ma ura. It
extends from lat. 10° 6' to 10° 46', and
from long. 78° 33' to 79° 16', being 43
miles square, with an area of 1,165
square miles, and a opulation of 61,745
persons. Very litt e is known of the
former history of this district. In 1752
we find the Tondiman Rfia sending 400
horse and 3,000 foot to t e assistance of
the Nfiwab of the Karniitak against the
French, who in revenge ravaged his
territory. The whole country is co-
vered with tanks, so that there is
scarcely a mile in any direction without
one. After the death of Raje Raghu-
nath, in 1839, the country was for some
time, during the minority of his suc-
cessor, mana ed by the British Resident.
Thus also, om 1807 to 1811, under
the administration of Major Blackburne,
Resident at Tanjiir, a debt of 280,000
rupees was cleared oil’. In 1807 the
above-mentioned oflicer decided a re-
markable territorial dispute between the
people of this district and those of She-
vaganga, in which, after a patient in-
vesti ation, it was full roved that all
the oeuments adduced y both parties
were forgeries, and that even the rows
of landmarks which extended for miles,
and to the antiquity and gcnuineness of
which each claimant was ready to swear,
had all been set up within the last four
years. Pudukota, the capital, was burnt
down in 1812, and rebuilt on an im-
proved lan. It is situate on the left bank
of the ellar (not to be confounded with
the Vellfir which enters the sea at Porto
Novog, in lat. 10° 24’, long. 78° 62', and
has a out 13,000 inhabitants.
A’-ar is a small hamlet. Illapu/r
Neranjakudi are large villages. The
water at Illapur is brackish. The road
as far as Shivaliir is very bad in wet
and
ROUTE 32.—imnn.is ro BoiraAY—n.iMiv.in.
Sect. II.
weather, being for the most part over a
black soft soil. Vailangudi is a small vil-
lage in a low country, with some jungle.
Tripatztr, or Tirupatfir (prop. in
Tamil, Tiru-pati-z'1r, “town of the Sa-
cred Lord”) is a small town which was
never defensible, and fell, as a matter of
course, in the wars of the Karnatak, to
every assailant.
(f) Ra'mna'd.—-Rdmmid prop. in Skr.
Rama Natha, “The Lord ama") con-
tains about 13,000 inhabitants, of whom
about 6,000 reside in the Fort. The
remainder live outside the walls, and the
majority of them on the E. side, near the
principal entrance to the fort. They are
chiefly Hindus, occupied in selling grain,
or in manufacturing coarse cloths. Some
forty years ago the manufacture both of
cotton and silk cloths, was carried on
briskly here, but the introduction of
English cottons has seriously injured the
native manufactures.
Ramnad is about 2% miles in circum-
ference, and is surrounded by a wall or
ditch, defended by numerous small has-
tions, but the works are now in a
ruinous condition, and the ditch is
nearly filled up. It is the capital of a
Zamindarf, or arony, lying between lat.
9° 3', and 10° 2’, and long. 78° and 79°
24’, stretching in a S.E. direction to-
wards the Island of Rameshwaram,
from which it is separated by the Pam-
ban strait, and covering an area of
upwards of 1,300 square miles. Of this
area one-half is cultivated, and the rest
sand and waste land, marshes and low
jung e. It is bounded on the N. by
Shevaganga, on the S. and E. by the
sea, and on the W. by Tinnevelli. The
Zamindéiri was nted to the ancestors
of the present mje, with the title of
Sadhu-pati “ patron or lord of holy
men,” or, according to Wilson, Setu-
Pati, “lord of the causeway leadin
from the continent of India to the sacre
islands of R§.m0SllWB1‘8.m,” for the pro-
tection of the pilg-lriins resorting to the
Pagoda of Rames waram. The founder
of the family was named Wudya Taven,
who on one occasion escorted a relation
of the King of Madura to the sacred
shrine, and received some territory as a
reward, with the title of Raj s. The


Madras.
1-59
ROUTE 32. —MADBAS TO BOMBAY—B.=lMNdD.
chiefs of Ramnad threw ofl' their de-
pendence on Madura in 1380 A.D. after
the Mnhammadan invasion led by Mu-
jahid Shah.
The count is an extensive plain,
with neither ‘bill nor wood to obstruct
the view; but near the coast the 6116121
tree abounds, and, with the palmyra and
cocoa-nut tree, forms a com lete belt of
vegetation alon the sea. he S. part
of the coast is aced with rugged rocks,
which extend some distance into the
sea, rendering the navigation dangerous.
The neck of land which runs towards
Rameshwaram is almost entirely com-
posed of sand, covered with a low brush-
wood and scanty grass. It terriiinates
abruptly, there being a break or chasm,
about 2,250 yds. wide, between the
island and the main-land, and the a -
pearance of. both leads at once to t e
conclusion that they were formerly
united. The soil in the interior and
W. taluks is black cotton ground, and
in the E. arts, for about 15 miles from
the sea, ight and sandy. \Vith the
aid, however, of manure, a large por-
tion is brought under cultivation. Even
the worst parts are not entirely unpro-
ductive, as the valuable chay-plant, from
the root of which a beautiful red dye is
extracted, grows spontaneously in the
sand, and is found in great abundance
along the coast, often growing in ap-
parently the most sterile spots.
Ranmad is divided into 17 taluks, as
follows :-




Taluks. No. of Villages. Population-
Riimnad 160 25,000
Kflakfid .. 53 19,200
Chekal....... ...... .. 140 12,000
Mudakulatiir .... .. 112 8,500
Papankolam .... .. 114 14,000
Kamuthi .......... .. 148 24,000
Abramem 185 17,600
Vindoni 87 14,500
Kamenkoatté .. . 19 1 22,000
Shaligrirmam .... . . 81 14,200
R-iisingamangalam 78 8,600
Arnutamangalam.. 191 14,400
Hanumantagudi... 184 14,500
Gutaganad ....... . . 86 9,800
Orlir.......... . 107 9,700
Kotapatnam 24 2,300
Pallimaddham 223 58,800

The inhabitants of the interior are
chiefly Hindus; those on the coast Mu-
hammadans, or Roman Catholics. The
Christians are employed as fishermen,
and are very poor, their villa es con-
sisting of mean huts erected a ong the
sea beach, having usually a small church
attached to them, in a conspicuous posi-
tion.
The Fort of Rdmndd is an equilateral
triangle, the sides of which face the
cardinal points, and areveach half-a-
mile in length, the wall being 27% feet
high. It was built about 270 years
ago by Magana, or Moghana, Ra hnnath
Sadhupati, who also constructs a large
tank near it on the N. side. Seen from
the flat count around, the fort, with
its massive wa , and the pagodas and
palace rising above them, has a fine
appearance.
The Zaminddfs Palace, composed of
four square buildings, of two or three
stories, stands in the centre of the town.
It is an ancient structure, ornamented
in the native style, with carvings of
deities, and little statues in niches, at
every corner. The Darbar, in the centre
of a small court, is of massive stone, with
pillars of the same. The whole build-
ing has a loomy appearance, and is now
going to ecay. Near it is a handsome
house built by the late Colonel Mar-
tinez, who resided here forty years, and
commanded the garrison and district.
Adjoining this is a small Protestant
Church and vestry in good repair, erected
chiefly at the expense of Colonel Mar-
tinez, who, though a Portuguese and a
Catholic, furnished 3,150 rupees towards
this good work. On the opposite side
of the tank is the burial place of the
Rajas, in which are several tombs of
granite. The Roman Catholic Church
stands near the S.E. corner of the fort.
In the centre of the town is a pagoda of
great sanctity and some interest. There
are two bazirrs regularly built, with
tiled roofs, where amarket is held every
Wednesday. The principal streets are
within the fort, and are wide and airy.
About three miles N. of the town
flows the Vaiga or Vyga river, which
rises in lat. 10° 17', long 77° 37', and,
after a S.E. course of 130 miles, in


~_
I
160
which it passes through the Collectorate
of Madura and washes the capital of the
same name, falls into the sea in lat. 9"
20', long. 79’ 4'. In passing Ramnad
it enters and almost ex ends itself in
the large tank to the of the town,
made by Raghunath. This tank is
usually not completely filled for years
together, but in 1810 it burst its banks,
and overfiowed to the sea. Ramnad is
garrisoned by a com any of Sipahfs,
under a European 0 'cer; and an as-
sistant of the Collector of Madura re-
sides there. It is a hot but extremely
healthy station.
In 1772, the Marawars, as they are
called, 1'. e., the Zamindars of Ramnad
and N alguti, were attacked b the Eng-
glish, at the instigation of t e Nuwab
of the Karnatuk, on ounds which are
thus pithily explainc by the British
government:—-“ The Nfiwab has made
them his enemies. It is therefore ne-
cessary they should be reduced. We do
not say it is altogether just, for 'ustice
and good policy are not often re ated.”
General Smith marched against Ram-
nad with 400 European infantry, 5
regiments of Sipiihis, 6 heavy guns,
and a body of horse. The batteries
opened on the morning of the 2nd of
April, and the breach was practicable
before evenin , when the fort was
stormed with t e loss of only one Euro-
pean and two Sipahis killed. The
Zamindar and his mother were then
handed over to the tender mercies of the
Nfiwab, who did not fail to treat them
so that even their enemies pitied them.
The fate of the other Marawar chief
was still more disastrous. Having con-
cluded a treaty with the Nfiwab, he was
rcposing in fancied security, when,
owing to some mistake, the English ad-
vanced against him, and put him and
his followers to the sword.
There are several laces of minor im-
portance in the neig bourhood of Ram-
niid, which, if the traveller has time,
may be visited. Kilakarnai or Kilia-
lcarai is a seaport two miles to'the
S_\V. of it, having a opulation of 7,000
Muhammadans, emp eyed in manufac-
tures. It is supposed by( Professor
Vfilson to be the site of urkhi, the
noun: 32.—2mnass ro BonrB.iY—.1;.iir1v.in.

of Madurn. This opinion, however, 1.s
controrerted b Mr. Taylor, the epito-
mizer of the ackenzie MSS. There
are several mosques and Muhamlnadan
tombs in the town, some of them very
elegant, especially one which stands in
the centre, and has a gilt cu ola. The
traveller may also remark t e Roman
Catholic Church, and the ruins of a
Dutch factor . Another seaport, Devi-
patanam, is luiown by the name of the
“ nine stones," from the circumstance of
a natural bath being formed there by
nine rocks, which has been held sacred
from the most remote antiquity. This
bath must be visited by all pilgrims on
their way to Rameshwaram. At a hand-
some chawadi (choultry) built there for
travellers, alms are bestowed daily.
Devikuta, on the north bank of the
Verashelagar river, is a populous vil-
lage, and one of the most important
places in the district, on account of its
trade and the numerous wealthy mer-
chants who reside there. These live in
a mean style, but distribute large sums
in charity. They salute their superiors
by rubbing the hand upon the stomach.
Mutapéta is a fishin villa e, ten miles
S.E. of Ramnad, in abite by Roman
Catholics. Here are two bangles, erected
on the sea-shore for Europeans who
desire to inhale the sea breeze. At
Atankarai, a. small seaport 11 miles E.
of Rarnnad, at the mouth of the Vaiga.
river, is a spacions chawadi built by the
late Zamindar, where alms are daily
distributed to pilgrims. Here is ob-
tained the best tobacco grown in the S.
provinces. Veraaholen, avillage on the
road to Madura, was formerly the resi-
dence of a Itaja, and the many re-
mains ef antiquity to be met with there
show that it was once a place of im-
portanee.
But the place of most interest, and
that which in the eyes of the Hindii
confers sanctity, not only on Ramnad
itself, but on all this part of India, is
Rdmeshwaram. On this island, which
is remarkable also on other accounts, is
a celebrated pagoda, where are two
Lingams, one of which Rama is said to
have procured from Benares, while he
Sect. II.
ancient residence of the Pandyan kings


Madras.
161
ROUTE 32.-—1[AI)RAS T0 BOMBAY-—RriMES1IWARAM.
fashioned the other with his own hands.
According to the tradition, Ravana,
king of Lanka or Ceylon, carried off
Sfta, the wife of Rama; and, to recover
her, the hero, who was Vishnu in his 7th
Avatar, or Incarnation, crossed the sea
at this spot on a brid e of rocks placed
here by Hanuman, tie monkey king.
After slaying Ravana and recovering l1lS
bride, as Rama returned from Ce lon,
he was observed to have two sha ows,
which is said to be a mark of sin of the
deepest dye. However, on reaching
Gundamantram, the original name of
the promontor which now forms this
island, the a ditional shadow disap-
peared, and he was informed by an at-
tending priest that he stood on holy
round, and that his sins were forgiven.
rom that period the island has been
dedicated to him; and, in the hope of
worldly blessings and immediate beati-
tude after death, said to be insured to
all who visit the sacred shrine and per-
form the prescribed ceremonies, vast
numbers resort hither from all parts of
India.
The island, which is about 14 miles in
length by 5 in breadth, is said, and no
doubt with truth, to have once joined
the mainland of Ramnad, and to have
been separated from it by a violent storm.
This took place in 1484 A.D., in the
reign of Achudapa Naik, Rajs of
Madura. A small breach was then
made, but the water was so shallow as
to be passable on foot till the time of
Aehudapa’s successor, Visuvarada N aik,
when another hurricane enlarged the
passage, which was continually increased
y succeeding storms. The passage was
further enlarged by the Dutch when they
possessed the island. But the greatest
improvements have been made since 1 830
by the British Government. Before
these improvements were made the pas-
sage was excessively crooked, and the
depth, at high water and neap tides, only
about five ft., so that dhomes without
keels, even after discharging most of
their cargo, would be often days getting
through when the current was strong.
There is now a channel called the
Pamban Pass, the whole breach being
about a mile broad, while the channel
for ships clear of rocks is about 90 ft.
wide and 10% ft. deep, so that keeled
vessels can pass through in either direc-
tion without delay and without dis-
charging car o. Even this space has
been obtaine b much labour, at an
expense of upwar of £15,000, the work
of dredging having been carried on since
1837. The expenditure, however, has
been repaid by a proportionate increase
in the number of vessels which have
passed through. The trade has in-
creased from 17,000.tons in 1822 to
160,000 tons in 1853. Vessels of 200
tons have passed, and even the war
steamers Pluto and Nemesis ; and freight
between Colombo and Negapatam has
been reduced by about six rupees, or
more than one-half, a ton.
The channel takes its name from the
small town of Pzimban at the W. extre-
mity of the island, and on the opposite
shore is Rameshwaram, which is a town
of about 1000 houses, most of which are
well built, and man of them terraced.
There are some goo streets running at
right angles with the pagoda, the in-
habitants being chiefly the attendants on
the shrine.
The Pagoda, the
tion, stands at the E. end of the town,
and is far less imposing in appearance
than either that at Madura or that at Che-
lambram. It consists of a quadrangular
enclosure, the N. and S. sides of which
are 657 ft. in length, and the E. and \V.
sides nearly 1000 ft. There are three
entrances, at one of which is a go ura,
rising to the height of 100 ft., the oor-
way being 40 ft. high, composed of single
stones placed perpendicularly,with others
crossing them. In massiveness of work-
manship the architecture resembles the
Egyptian or Cyclopean. On entering,
the visitor is struck by the vastness of
the building, the numerous columns
which support the roof, and the mas--
sivencss of the materials. The length
of the temple itself is 353 ft. from N. to
S., and 671 ft. from E. to W. The
ceiling is composed of large slabs of
granite, supported by carved pillars of
the same material, raised on a platform
five ft. high, the pillars themselves be-
ing 12 ft. in height, and most of them
great object of attrac- I


162
Sect. II.
RoUTE 32.-MADRAs To BOMBAY-TANGAMAPURAM.
formed of single blocks of stone. As no
granite is found in the island, the trans-
portation of these huge masses a distance
of 40 miles, from whence it is said they
were brought, must have been a work of
stupendous labour.
n the colonnade leading from the
doorways to the interior of the temple
are figures representing the Rājā of
Ramnad, by whom it was built, with
his family and ministers. Immense
sums were formerly lavished in presents
to the temple, both in money and jewels;
and châwadis, where alms are bestowed,
are erected all along the coast of Rām-
nad. The road from Rāmeshwaram
to Pámban, a distance of eight miles, is
paved, a châwadi being erected at every
mile, with wells and numerous small
odas.
The annual revenue is upwards of
40,000 rupees, derived principally from
lands, the rest from the offerings of
devotees. No one is permitted to enter
the inner temple save the attendant
brāhmans, who live in the town, and
have their share of the offerings. For-
merly, when the Rājā of Tanjūr visited
the shrine, his expenditure £
exceeded 1,80,000 rupees. The water
oured over the image is brought by the
evotees all the way from the Ganges,
and after it has becn poured over the
idol it is carefully bottled off and sold at
a high price.
most 1% mile N. of Rāmeshwaram
is a small hill, about 30 ft. in height,
open on all sides, on which a building
of two stories has been erected. From
the upper story is an extensive view of
the whole island, with a part of Adam's
bridge. This would be a good spot for
a lighthouse. There is to the S. of the
town a fresh-water lake three miles in
circumference, which is filled by the
rains, and to the N. is an extensive salt
marsh, which is said to exert a bad in-
fluence on the health of the inhabitants.
As, however, the island enjoys both
monsoons, it is generally healthy and
cool, the thermometer ranging from 75°
to 80°. The fixed population is about
4,300; the number of pilgrims who
annually resort to the island is about
30,000. The language of the islanders
is Tamil, but the brahmans, through
constant intercourse with strangers, con-
verse in many tongues. At Pamban
there is a European officer with 100
sappers and miners and 150 convicts.
Rameshwaram (lit. in Skr. “The God
of Rama”) completes the Hindú's circle
of pilgrimage, which, commencing with
the temple of Devi at £ a little to
the W. of Sonmiání, in Sindh, proceeds
to Jwala Mukhi, near Lahore, and
thence to Haridwār and down the Ganges
to Orissa, and finishes at Rāmeshwaram,
at the S. extremity of India.
The road, after leaving Râmnád,
passes over a flat country, through the
villages of Utarakoshamangai and She-
kal, at which place water is rather defi-
cient, and the hamlet of Kaddagoshandi,
and across the small river called the
Kundal, into the Collectorate of Tinne-
velli. This Collectorate, of which the
three principal towns are Tinnevelli,
Páliam-kotta (Palamcottah), and Tuti-
korin, is not remarkable for its ferti-
lity, having generally either a loose
soil, for which the native name is regad,
or else a black cotton soil. Yet the po-
pulation increases very rapidly. In 1823
it numbered 554,947 persons, and in
1852 it had risen to 1,269,216, which,
with an area of 5,700 square miles, gives
221 to the square mile. Tinnevelli
lies between lat. 8°9' and 9° 56', long.
77° 15' and 78° 56', being from N. to S.
122 miles long, and from E. to W. 74
miles broad.
Tangamapuram, “Golden-lady-town,”
on the frontier, is a small hamlet. The
village of Vypdr stands on the S.W.
bank of the river of the same name,
close to the sea. This river, the largest
in the Collectorate, rises in lat. 9° 45',
long. 77° 54, and flows S.E. 80 miles
into the Gulf of Manár. The water at
Wypár is brackish, and it is necessary to
send three miles to obtain good. The
road from it lies through a thick wood
of palms. Of the remaining stations
between this and Páliamkotta, Vaida-
nattam and Paraguttam, are small, and
Wottapadaram and Shivilperri large
villages, especially, the latter. From
Râmnád to Vypár the road runs for the
most part within five or six miles of the


Madras.
163
ROUTE 32.—MADRAS To BOMBAY-KUTALLAM.
sea; thence it proceeds more inland.
The Tamraparni river (from Skr. tamra,
“copper” varnah, “color,” “copper-
colored;”—in classical Tamil, Porunei;
called in the Road-book, Tamberperny;
in Thornton's Gazetteer, Tambaravari;
in Walker's Map, Pambouri; and in
the Trigonometrical Map, Chindinthura,
this latter name being properly the
name of a ford in the river), rises
on the E. slope of the E. Ghats, in
lat. 8° 52', long. 77° 20', and after
a winding course of 80 miles, falls
into the Gulf of Manár, in lat. 8° 38',
long. 78° 10', close to the town of
Panakovil. The Tamraparní is a sacred
stream; the fish, which abound in it,
are fed at Pápanásham.
(g) Páliam-kotta (Palamcottah), “camp-
town,” is a military station, at which
there is generally a native regiment, and
a few artillerymen. The Fort, which
is elevated 120 ft. above the level of
the sea, stands in an extensive plain, one
mile E. of the Tamraparní river, and is
built on a bed of granite rock. Within
the fort are numerous wells, with an
abundant supply of water, but with a
few exceptions they are all brackish.
The native lines are outside, on a rocky
platform. The gaol and hospital were
removed hither in 1838 from Tinnevelli.
The station is considered healthy. A
church, with a spire, has been erected
within the last few years. Near the
houses of the European officers, which
form an oblong square on the S. face of
the fort, are public baths.
(h) Tiru-nel-véli.—At the short dis-
tance of three miles across the Tâmra-
arni river is Tirunelvéli, “sacred rice-
#. (Tinnevelli), the capital of the
Collectorate, containing a population of
25,000 souls. A very handsome and
substantial bridge, built at the sole cost
of Sulochamma Mudeliár, a native gen-
tleman, has been thrown across the
river, and by this the intercourse be-
tween Tinnevelli on the left and Pā-
liamkotta on the right bank is main-
tained during the rains, when it was
formerly intercepted. The expense of
erecting this bridge was 65,000 rupees.
There are two fine pagodas at Tiru-
nelvéli, one to Shiva, the other to Shri,
built of granite. The town is well-built
and handsome.
The three places of interest to be
visited from this, are the waterfalls of
Kutallam and Papandsham, and the
earl fisheries of Tuttukudi (Tutikorin).
he route to Kutallam, “stunted ban-
yan,” from Páliam-kotta, is as follows:-
STAGES.
PLACES. F. F. M.
From the Madura gate x
n. to Muruwankurchí ...
Tamraparní r., r. b. .
Ditto, V. b...........
Rd. to Madura........
Tinnevelli begins b. .
Rd. to Pāpanāsham.
Tinnevelli ends.......
Tulukankolam...
KANGAIAMKOLAM.....
Karwanellir.................
Pudu-ür .....
Marandai ..
Kárumpilliar
ALANKOLAM (“banyan
tank”) b.........
Krishnaperi........
Shivakamipuram. - -
Pa-Vir........................
x 3 m. and Chiträwati r.
Tenkäshi, begins t. o.... 5
Ditto ends ,
x Chiträwati r, to Malla-
Veran ..........
Kudiyirrapu ................. 1
(a) x £ r. to Kutallam
ZAMINDAR'S CHAT-
TRAM..................... 1
!
9 2
!:|
10 4
|
1 18 2
38 0
There is a good made road the whole
way, and the country is open and flat till
within the last # miles, when there
are hills on the right, .
Tenkashi, in Tamil, “S. Benares,”
is a very holy place, and boasts a fine
pagoda, partly ruined.
a) Kutallam is a large village, with
several banglás close in among the
hills. The famous Cataracts are close
at hand. The Sylar, or, more pro-
perly, Chittar river, which rises in
the hills immediately N. of Puliéri,
“tamarind tank,” at the E. opening
of the Ariangával Pass, receives several


164
Sect. II.
RouTE 32.—MADRAs To BoMBAY-PAPANAsHAM.
streams, the most remarkable of which
is that which here creates by its fall, in
lat 8° 56', the Kutallam cataracts. This
stream issues from the mountains that
compose the S. side of a recess formed
by the retiring of the great Ghats. The
recess is about 20 miles in width, and
its greatest opening into the Ariangával
Pass, which connects Tinnevelli with the
country of Travancore, is about 10 miles.
The Pass itself is very narrow, and
about 10 miles in length. The name
signifies “The guard of Arian,” i.e. the
guardian deity of boundaries, and the
same as Shāstā. Here, accordingly, is
the boundary of the Drávida £
This Pass admits the S.W. monsoon
into the happy region, of Kutallam,
which thus enjoys the benefit of both
monsoons, and its climate is, conse-
quently, at least 10° cooler than that of
Páliamkotta, and is particularly enjoy-
able after the heavy rains on the W.
coast have commenced—in June, July,
and August. In February, March,
April, and May, the climate is damp,
and fevers are rife. The scenery here
is exquisitely beautiful. Around are
£ hills, in one part clothed with
orest, in another broken with huge
rocks. The banglås are in the plain,
close to the foot of the rise, near the
cataracts. The lowest fall is about 200
ft. in height, but broken midway. The
Sylar, or rather Chittar, river here
shoots from a projecting rock, and when
the stream is full, presents a grand spec-
tacle. At a short distance from it is a
beautiful pagoda dedicated to Shiva.
The average temperature of the water is
from 72° to 75° Fahrenheit, and invalids
derive much benefit from bathing in it.
The bathing place is under a fine shelv-
ing rock, which forms a shower-bath of
nature's own making, not to be equalled
by art. There are three falls, the highest
being 2,000 ft. above the sea. The third
fall is very sacred, and all the pilgrims
go up to it. In one place the river is
unfordable when the stream is full, and
on one occasion a number of native
women were drowned in trying to cross
it.
The route to the Papandsham (vulg.
Paupanassum, but derived from Skr.
Papa, “sin,” ndsha, “extinction,”)
Falls, from Páliamkotta, is as follows:–
MILITARY AUTHORITY: Officer com-
manding S. Division – Trichinapalli.
CIVIL AUTHORITY: Collector of Tin-
nevelli–Tinnevelli.
PLACES. STAGES.
M. F. M. F.
From the Lines + Tâmra-
arni r. (bridged) to
Virarájavupuram ...... 2 0
Tinnevelli begins, b, ...... 1 1
Ditto ends ............ 1 0
Péta........................... 1 3
Shankaranarnang Chat-
tram........................ 1 4
Kundanagaram .. 1 6
Kilkallar..................... 2 4
+ Tamraparni r. 220 yds.
wide to Shairmadevi, t.o. 2 6
VAIDINADEN KOWIL
(Lord of Physic Church)b. 04 144
Kárkurchi .................. 1 5
Kílankolam ... ..... 1 5
Wellangudi .................. 1 7
+ Kuraiár r. 220yds, wide
to Kaldakurchi, begins... 1 7
Ditto, ends .................. 1 2
+Tamraparni (bridged) to
Ambasamādram ........ • 4
Pudupatti ............. ..... 24
Vikramasingham............ 2 0
(a) PAPANASHAM KO-
WIL and CATARACT 0 6 15 0
29 4
(a) At Pápanäsham, the Tamraparni
river, which has its source about 22 miles
to the W., precipitates itself for the last
time before passing from the hills into
the level country. The cataract is but
80 ft. high, but the body of water ex-
ceeds in bulk that of the Chittar at the
Falls of Kutallam. Near the Fall is a
pagoda, and the brahmans feed a multi-
tude of sacred fish, which are very tame,
and come when called to be fed. The
climate is inferior to that of Kutallam.
The scenery resembles that of some parts
of Switzerland, where the mountains
are of a moderate elevation. In a W.
and N. direction the hills have been but
little explored. They are covered with
a dense jungle, and abound in game.
Tigers, deer, and bisons are numerous,


Madras. . RouTE 32.—MADRAs To
BoMBAY-TUTTURUDI. 165
Some peaks rise to a considerable height.
Thus the Agastya Mallé, from which
flows the Tamraparni river, towers 6,200
ft. above the sea. Higher up the river
are two fine cataracts, the Bána Tir-
tham and the Pámbànasuri or “Snake
daemon,” in a very dense tigerish jungle.
The route from Páliamkotta to Tu-
tikorin is as follows: -
MILITARY AUTHORITY: Officer com-
manding S. Division–Trichinapalli.
CIVIL AUTHORITY: Collector of Tin-
nevelli–Tinnevelli.
PLACES, STAGES.
M. F. M. F.
From N.E. angle of the
fort to Kotór ............ 1 2
Nawab's Chattram......... 1 4
x 2 n. to Mutikolam ..... 3 5
x Chindithura or Tâmra-
arní r. to SHEWEL-
E"RI ... ........ • - - - - - 0 6 7 1
Shingatakurchi.............. 4 5
MEL (West) CHAKRA-
GUDI ..................... 3 5 8 2
x sandy n, to Kallamu-
ramben .................... 3 2
+ rivulet 30 yds. wide to
MEL THATTAPAURA 2 6 6 0
Varāhapatti.............. .... 1 7
Madáturpatti ............... 3 5
(a) TUTTUKUDI (Tuti-
korin) b. & t. o............ 4 2 9 6
31 1
a) Tuttukudi.–Tuttukudi (Tutiko-
* “Scattered habitation,” formerly a
Dutch settlement, lies in lat. 8°48', long.
78°12', on the N.W. coast of thc Gulf of
Manár, and is the only really important
harborintheTinnevelli Collectorate. This
place is remarkable for its pearl fishery,
and its shankh shells, which are found
in no place in the world save here and
in the Palk Straits. The pearls on the
Tutikorin bank are reckoned inferior to
those on the banks nearer Ceylon, as
they are not pure white, but have a blue
or greenish tinge. Nevertheless, the con-
tract for fishing on this bank brought
to Government in 1803 £15,000; in
1804, £75,000; in 1805, £35,000; in
1808, £90,000; in 1809, £25,000; in
1810, £26,980; in 1814, £64,000. In
1810, ten days fishing on the Tulayeram
Paar bank produced 2,203,658 oysters,
of which one-third went to the divers,
and two-thirds to the contractors, who
paid 34,300 star pagodas for the lease.
After six days more fishing it was con-
sidered so completely fished as to require
rest for seven years. The life of the
pearl oyster is computed at from seven
to eight years duration. The shells are
of a uniform size and shape-oval, and
about 7% inches in circumference. The
animal adheres to the coral banks until
its fibres are weakened by age, when it
falls off into deeper water. It is fatter
and more slimy than the common oyster,
and is held to be unwholesome. The
formation of pearls itself is regarded as
a disease, though, as has been justly
remarked, since the vast majority of
oysters on these banks produce pearls,
we should have to suppose either that
there was something poisonous in the
ground on which they feed, or that the
banks were a sort of hospital for invalid
oysters. However this may be, the
pearl oysters are of so delicate a nature
that they cannot be raised elsewhere;
and all attempts at engrafting them on
other beds, even within the immediate
vicinity, have failed. The great pearl
banks in the Gulf of Manār extend about
30 miles from N. to S., and 24 from E.
to W. The best fishing is in water
from 6 to 8 fathoms deep.
The Conch or shankh shell, a univalve
of a £ white colour, is used by the
Hindas at their pagodas and hermitages
as a musical instrument, and blown at
certain hours. In heroic times it was
used as a trumpet, and every hero had
his own shell. Great numbers are sent
hence to Bengal and other parts of India.
The shell is also cut into ornaments, as
bracelets, rings, etc. The fishery is rented
at 5,000 rupees per annum. About 18
miles S. of Tuttukudi, as the crow flies,
is the town of Tiru-send-ar ''
door; in the Trigonometrical Survey
Map, Tritchindoor), where is a famous
temple of Subramana, erected on a rock
projecting into the sea, one of the largest
second-class temples in the Karnātak.
This edifice is built of the hard white
sand-stone of the vicinity, instead of


166
Sect. II.
ROUTE 32.—M'A.DRAS TO BOMBAY——l§IADURA..
the ordinary black granite, and is equal
to any temple in ornamentation.
Proceeding still along the coast eight
miles further S., the traveller would
come to 1l[ar_zapa'r, or 1l[a1_wpa'du,“ sand-
town,” written in the ma s Munahpaud,
a little port on the lee si e of a point of
land, formerly a Dutch settlement.
Somewhat to the N. of this is a very
risin town, with a port, called after the
first in of Madura, Kulase'kharapat-
nam, an written in the maps Golisair-
putnum.
The road to Madura from Paliamkotta
leads in a N.N.E. direction through the
small villages of Kaitar, Yerrashaiwal,
Kovilpatti, Satur or Chatfir, and Wai-
palpatti, to the considerable town of
Virdupaggi. The road is generally good
except in some parts near Kovilpatti,
where the soil is black. At Yerashai-
wal the encamping ground is bad, and
the water execrable. Virdupatti is a
considerable town, of about 2,000
houses. The undulatin country around
is extensively cultivate , and handsome
clumps of trees adorn the scenery:
(i) Madura (prop., according to assen,
Mathurd, from a Skr. root which sig-
nifies “to stir ;” or, Madhura, “sweet,"
according to\Vilson, inJour.Roy.As. Sea,
vol. iii., p. 204, not J!/[uddara-_4/, as given
in the Madras Route Book), situated in
lat. 9° 55', long. 78° 10', is the capital
of a Collectorate of the same name,
which, with an area (including Dindi-
gal) of 10,700 square miles, has a po-
pulation of 1,756,791 persons. This
Collectorate extends from lat. 9° 5' to
10° 54'., and from long. 77° 15' to 79°
15', being to the S. and E. a nearly
level plain, with large patches of unpro-
ductive sandy soil, an rising to the N.
and E. into a series of hilly ranges, which
occasionall sink into low slopes broken
by isolate rocks. The inhabitants
are chiefly Hindus, and the language is
Tamil. Of eve 100 persons, exclusive
of Christians, 6 may be reckoned
Sh\idras,l3 Brahmans, 16 Pariahs, and 5
Muhammadans. The Catholics, who are
more numerous here than in any part of
India, form about the one-fortieth part
of the population. Madura Collectorate
constitutes a part of the ancient king-


dom called by Ptolemy Regio Pandiords,
whence an embassy was sent to Augustus
in the 18th year after the death of
Julius Caesar, and again six years later.
So early as the third century after Christ,
it is reputed to have been a hi hly
civilised and flourishin country. iss-
sen and Professor ilson conjecture
(lour. Roy. As. 800., vol. iii., . 202
that the kin dom may have been fgund
13.0. 500. ' he city of Madura, lying in
the direct route of the pilgrims to the
sacred island of Rameshwaram, and
possessing itself several renowned tem-
ples, early became a {place of importance.
A university was ounded here—it is
said, by the sage Agast a—to which
students from all arts of ndia resorted,
so that Madura as been aptly termed
“ the Athens of South India.” Of the
authentic history of the country u to
A.D. 1532, little 1s known, save the are
names of a long list of kings—one series
alone consisting of 72 princes. The
magnificent tanks, however, the vast
extent of count marked by the little
embankments w ich indicate irrigated
land, but are now covered with 'ungle,
the temples and long mounds oil rm
vouch for the prodigious po ulation, and
for the ancient splendour o the govern-
ment. This much, at least, is certain,
that, after various struggles with the
neighbouring states, the power of the
Pandyan kin s was overshadowed and
eclipsed in t e 8th and 9th centuries
A.D, by that of the Chola monarchs.
The Belal Chiefs of Maisur then became
paramount; and, in the 14th century,
the Muhammadans pushed their incur-
sions into those parts, and penetrated
even to Rameshwaram. Soon after the
Rajas of Vijayanagar reduced the South
of India under their yoke. In 1552,
Nagana, or, according to some, N agama
N is ak, who is said to have been chief
of t e bullock department to Achta Deva,
Rayal of Viygyanagar, founded the dy-
nasty of the
succeeded, some say deposed, by his son
Vishwanath, who built several pagodas
and executed many useful works. The
eighth chief of this race was Tirumalla
Nayak, commonly called Trimal N aik,
who laid the foundations of 96 temples
ayaks of Madura. He was -


Madras.
167
ROUTE 32.-—MADRAS r0 BOMBAY-MADUBA.
to Shiva and Vishnu, and so adorned
Madura as to have inseparably connected
his name with the history of the pro-
vince.
Among the buildings which owe
their origin to him, is the famous
Choultry or Maqtzlapam, which is un-
doubtedl one of the noblest edifices in
India. t consists of avast hall, 312 ft.
in length and 125 in breadth (according
to Fergusson 333 ft.’ long by 81 ft. 10 in.
broad) of an oblong square form, built
of hard grey granite, the labor of carving '
which must have been immense. Yet
128 pillars which sup ort the stone roof
are profusely covere with ornaments,
man of the figures being executed with
muc delicacy and taste. The pillars
are in six rows according to Graul; in
four, according to Wilson,-—each being
25 ft. high, and man of them fashione
from a single bloc . On the second
pillar to the right, as the spectator faces
the door at the bottom, are sculptured
Trimal Naik himself and his six wives.
The principal wife, dau hter of the
Raja of Tanjiir, on being s ewn by her
husband the newly-erected edifice, is said
to have coldly remarked that it was in-
ferior to her father‘ s stables. Trimal Néik
was so incensed at this speech, that he
struck his dagger into his wife’s thigh ;
and, accordingly, the stone figure displays
a large gash below the hip on the left
side. It is possible, however, that this
story may have been coined for the oc-
casion, the figure havin been injured
in the lapse of time. he legend, too,
which points out, in another place, two
figures in a cell, as the architects, im-
mured to prevent their accomplishing
any work which might ecli se this
Choultry, has probably no foun ation in
truth. This noble building is said to
have been be in 1623, the second
year of Trimal’s reign, and to have been
com leted in 22 years, at the cost of up-
war sofa million of pounds, a sum, how-
ever, which is, dou tless, exaggerated.
The curious figures with the eads of
pigs represent twelve hunters, who, when
pursuing wild ho , disturbed the medi-
tations of a ho y recluse, and were
changed by his curse into swine: subse-
quently, Shiva had compassion on them,
restored them to human shape, and
taught them wisdom to such good effect,
that they rose to be chief ministers of the
State.
The Choultry stands close in front
of the great Pagoda of Mindkshi (“Fish-
eyed," a name of Pérvati, Shiva’s
wife) and Sokkalinga, or Sundara
Pandya, an incarnation of Shiva, who
reigned among the early kings of Ma-
dura. The whole buildin covers 20
acres, and is adorned wit four lar e
gopurams, and five smaller ones. T e
vast aisles are dimly lighted by a number
of twinkling lamps, which seem to ren-
der the gloom more oppressive. Bats
flit among the dark ranges of columns,
and the grotesque figures carved upon
them seem to peer and gibber in the
obscurity. Trimal Naik’s magnificent
Choultry is sim ly a porch to this temple,
and was erecte with the design of pro-
viding an apartment for the god, who
consented to eavehis shrine for ten days
in every year, and visit the King, pro-
vided a suitable place was erected for his
accommodation.
The pa oda is efipecially famous for a
tank ca ed“theta ofthe oldenlotus,”
beside which a bench of gold, or, as some
say, of diamond, was set. The bench was
presented by Shiva, and possessed the
marvellous pro erty of discriminating the
merits of can idates for a place in the
Collegiate Synod, and so deciding on
their election or rejection. This Synod
or Sangattar consisted of fort -eight
professors, the god Shiva himsel being
the forty-ninth. When a candidate for
honors appeared, he was questioned by
the professors, and, if his answers were
considered satisfactory, he was finall
told to seat himself on the bench. f
really worthy of the honor, the bench
extended so as to allow him a seat; but
if not, it contracted its dimensions, and
the unworthy aspirant was thrown to the
ground or cast into the tank,—a result,
at least, in the present slim and weed-
covered state of the water, y no means
desirable.
The Synod is said to have been abo-
lished some time prior to the year 1028
A.D., in a singular manner. The ro-
fessors had grown proud and neglectful


~-
_themsclves in the tank.
168
of literature, when a Pariah priest of
Mailapur, named Tiruvalavar, who, some
affirm, was the god Shiva incarnate, pre-
sented himself for election, with an
ethical oem he had composed in his
hand. he hi h caste members of the
Synod were in 'gnant at his presump-
tion, but as his claim was backed by the
Raja, they were obliged to give him a
trial. To their astonishment he was
ermitted to take his seat, and so morti-
ed were they at his success, that they
passed out, one by one, and drowned
It is supposed
that there is some allusion here to the
first reaching of Christianity. The
legend) is variously told. This templeis
said to have been erected by Vamsa
Sekhara, the 44th king of the first
Panglyan dynasty, who is su posed to
have reigned in about the 5t century
A.D. Inliis reign the College also is said
to have been founded; and he is the re-
puted builder of the Fort, and of the
ancient Palace. Whether this be true
or not, it can hardly be su posed that
any remains of buildings 0 such high
anti uity can now be left. The great
temp e may, perha s, be as old as the
11th century; and t e other edifices are
indubitably the work of Rajas, long sub-
sequent to Vamsa Sekhara. A lar e
number may be ascribed to Trimal Nai ,
whose age seems to have been the Au-
gustan period of Madura. To him also
is referred the Perwmal “ Great-one," or
Vishnu pagoda, an exquisite specimen
of Hindu architecture, and which is re-
markable as being a very exact counter-
part of one of the seven Raths, or rock-
cut temples at Mahabalipur. There is,
likewise, a famous temple in a place
called Pahlari, dedicated to the god
Vellayadah, at whose shrine shoes of
leather, highly ornamented, are offered,
as the Deity is supposed to be much en-
gaged in hunting, and to require frequent
renewals of his c/zaussure.
The ruins of the old Palace, erected
or enlarged by Trimal N aik, are also
highly interesting. The grandeur of
the columns, and the vast hall of audi-
ence, remind one of the magnificence of
imperial Rome. The roof is a dome
' ft. in diameter, and richly ema-
norrrn 32.—-MADBAS TO BOMBAY-—MADUBA.

Sect. II.
mented, supported by sculptured pil-
lars joined b arches, so as to form
a superb g. ery, which a ain rests
on massive columns below. e archi-
tecture is Saracenic, blended with Hindu.
On the ceiling are figures resembling
angels, which some suppose to have been
suggested by the famous Jesuit, Robertus
de Nobilibus, the nephew of Cardinal
Bella:-mine, who came to Madura during
the rei n of Trimal Naik, and, giving
himsel out as a brfihman from the West
played the part of a Hindu priest, and
wanted to engraft Christianity on the
Vedas. The court of the English Judge
has its sittings in this Palace. From
the roof there is an extensive view,
closed on the N. and W. by hills, of
which the most remarkable 1s—to the
N., Solai Mallé, where is a tem le of
Suntararasan, Siru M-allé, and Yatta
Mallé; and to the \V., Naku Mallé,
and Pasu Mallé, where is the Perumal
pagoda. To the S. are three large
tanks. Trimal lVa'_1/ak’s Tank, about a.
mile S. of the town, is, perhaps, the
finest in S. India. An artificial island
adorns the centre, with a tem le on it.
This piece of water is walle all the
way round, with steps of black granite.
To the E. are the Roman Catholic Church
and the American. The former of these
churches is the finest; but even the
American surpasses in appearance the
English, which has no pretensions to
beauty or taste.
The Travellers‘ Bangld issome distance
outside the town, and on the way thither
is a monument to Mr. Blackburne, a
former collector. The natives, in grate-
ful acknowledgment of his having been
the first to enlarge and beautify their
streets, have erected to him a tall pillar,
on which is a large light, kept con-
stantly burning. Indeed, till within
late years, all travellers spoke with dis-
gust of the crowded and filthy condition
of the houses in Madura; but so much
has been done within the last few years
in the way of improvement that the
streets have now a handsome appear-
ance, are wonderfully clean, and the
houses, man of them of two stories,
built of bric and faced with chunam,
end an air of opulence and prosperity


__-mm-
Madras.
to the place. In fact, Madura is pro-
bably the only city in the interior of
India which has a decidedly pleasant
appearance, and is entirely free from
all the filth and other usual evils of a
native town. The wall of the Fort,
originally about 33 miles in circumfer-
ence, has been removed and the ditch
filled up. This is the head quarters of
a flourishing American Mission, con-
sisting of 12 American missionaries, 71
catechists and readers, and 68 school-
teachers, distributed over nine stations
scattered through the district. In 1850
there were 202 native communicants and
about 2,000 Christians who keep the
Sabbath and attend Church, but whose
conduct is not altogether satisfactory.
Madura was several times taken and
re-taken during the English war in the
Karnātak. In 1751, Capt. Cope, with
about 6,000 men, of whom 180 were
Europeans, attempted to storm the city,
but was repulsed with the loss of 90
men. In 1755 the army under Colonel
Heron entered it without opposition.
Lying in the direct route of the pilgrims
to the shrines of Râmnád and Rāmesh-
waram, it has always been a # of
importance in the eyes of the Hindús,
and the remains of some of the finest
edifices in India render it well worth
visiting to the traveller. Madura is the
seat of the remarkable scarlet dyeing
establishments, the colours (said to be
owing to the water of the Wyga), being
so superior to that obtained anywhere
else, that the cloth is sent to all parts of
India.
(i) Dindigal may be easily reached in
one night by palankeen from Madura.
The road leads through the town of Shola-
vandan, which has about 1,500 houses,
and the smallvillage of Ammayanykanūr.
The town of Dindigal, with about
9,000 inhabitants, is the capital of a
valley lying to the N. of Madura, hav-
ing an area of 4,500 square miles, and a
opulation exceeding 300,000. It is
uilt on a gentle ": and the streets
are wide and clean. The traveller may
halt here if only to visit the Palnai
mountains, 20 miles to the W., which
have a climate not inferior to that of
the Nilgiris, while they even surpass
RouTE 32.—MADRAs To BoMBAY.-KARöR.
169
them in beauty of scenery. They rise
to the height of 7000 ft. above the sea,
and five miles S. of the town are the
Siru Mallé hills, 3,500 ft. high. The
sportsman will find abundance of amuse-
ment here, as elephants, leopards, elk,
and bison are to be found; wild hogs
are common; and florican, snipe, pigeons
of various sorts, and waterfowl, are in
plenty. The rivers and tanks abound
with excellent fish, among which manil,
or sand-fish, eels, and prawns, may be
particularized. In the Nellakotta dis-
trict, in Mutu Mudia's well, a large
species of cockle or muscle is found,
about the size of an ordinary oyster,
having a dark brown circled shell, with
a bright pearly inside. It is considered
wholesome as food, and is said to pro-
duce pearls. The climate of Dindigal
is considered one of the best in India,
and the nights are always cool. A wing
of a native regiment is kept here. The
Fort is built on a rock to the W. of the
town, about 400 ft. long, 300 ft. broad,
and 280 ft. in height. This rock is a
singular wedge-shaped piece of gneiss,
veined with felspar, and is a conspicuous
object from all parts of the plain. In
1736, Chanda Sáhib, Núwäb of the
Karnātak, placed his brother, Sádik
Sáhib, in Dindigal, as one of the
strongest forts in his viceroyalty; but
four £ after Sädik Sáhib was de-
feated and slain by the Marathas.
Dindigal was taken by the Maisür Raja
in 1755, and from Tipú by the British
army in 1783, but restored to him in
1784, and finally ceded to the British
#". along with the district, in
1792.
There is no place of interest on the
road from Dindigal to Salem until the
traveller comes to Kairür. The inter-
mediate stations are unimportant vil-
lages. At Putambur Chattram water
is deficient and bad.
(M) Karár is a considerable town, with
fine streets, situated in lat. 10° 55', long.
78°12'. It stands on a gentle slope,
in a dry, open country, on the N. bank
of the river Amaravati, a little above its
confluence with the Kávéri. Near it
are the ruins of a considerable fort,
with a large temple, the spire over the
8


i"~
170
gateway of which is 88 ft. in height,
64 ft. long at the base, and 52 ft. broad.
It was formerly considered one of the
strongest frontier towns of the kingdom
of Maisiir, and stood a siege for several
months against Chanda Sahib, in 1751.
In 1781 it was taken by Colonel Lon ,
and in 1801 the fort was abandoned.
Karfir is the capital of the sub-district
of Koimbatfir, containing 79 villages,
with a population of 70,000 persons.
A little beyond Kara: the Salem road
crosses the Kavéri, after which the
only considerable place is Namkal Drug,
a large town, with a fort built on a very
remarkable bare granite rock, which was
once of some strength, thou h, in 1768,
Colonel Wood took it from _ aidar with-
out any loss.
For a description of Salem and Koim-
batfir see Route 34.
The Nilgiri Hills (from the Skr. nila,
“blue,” gin’, “ mountain," vulgarly
sp)elt N eilgherries), are a most remark-
a le range of mountains, situated be-
tween lat. 11° 10’—1 1° 38', long. 76° 30'
-—77° 10’, and connected on the W. with
the Siadri branch of the W. Ghats.
They form a sub-division of the Collec-
torate of Koimbatur. The greatest
length of these mountains, at an eleva-
tion of 5000 ft., is 42 miles from N.E.
to S.W., and their average breadth at
the same elevation is 14 miles. Their
figure is that of a trapezium, and their
surface is a continuous succession of
ridges, slopes, and knolls, with here and
there a grand peak rising up by itself.
The granite of which they are com osed
is covered with a rich black soil, w ich,
in the valleys and ravines, is often 10 ft.
deep and even more; in some places are
found morasscs, generally consistin of
eat, which is now extensively use for
fuel. The base of these mountains,
which is supposed to cover a surface of
nearly 200 miles, is clothed with a belt
of primeval forest, almost impenetrable
in many parts, and swarming with wild
animals of all descriptions, among which
elephants and tigers are ve numerous.
This barrier jungle is so un ealthy that
it is necessary to pass through it with-
out a halt, for to stay a night 111 it would
be almost certain death even to the
norms 32.—Msnnss 'r0 BOMBAY-—-1TlLGIHI HILLS.

Sect. II.
natives, multiplied instances having oe-
curred of fatal results from sleeping once
within its limits, both to Europeans and
natives. Accordingly, bearers are not
compelled to wait for those who, from
whatever cause, delay their coming be-
yond such an hour as would enable the
I_zamma'l.v to cross the forest ere night
sets in. The Nilgiris are divided into
four Nhds or districts: to the E., I’ar1m-
anad; to the S., Maikanad; to the
.\V. and W., Kundanad; to the N.
and N.W., including nearly the whole
crest of the mountains, Tudanad. In
the last of these divisions is the prin-
cipal European settlement, Utakamand,
bordered to the E. and N.E. by moun-
tains which rise high above it; and
towering even over these is seen the
majestic Petmarz, as it is called by the
Tudas; or, in the Kanarese langlilifige,
Dodabetta (doda, “great,” bet_ta, “ ”),
the lofticst mountain of India S. of the
Himalya, its summit being 8,760 fiz.
above the sea. The other principal
yaks have the following elevation 1-
udiakad, 8,502; Bevoibetta, 8,488;
Murkurti, 8,402; Davarsolabetta, 8,380;
Kunda, 8,353; Kundamogé, 7,816;
Utakamand, 7,361; Tamrabetta, 7,292;
Hokalbetta. 7,267; Urbetta, 6,916;
Kodanad, 6,815; Davebetta, 6,571;
Kbtagiri, 6,571; Kundabetta, 6,555;
Dimliatti, 6,330; Kuniir, 5,886; Ran-
aswami Peak, near the Gajalhatti
ass, 5,948. Two rincipal rivers rise
among these hills, t e Moyar and the
Siru, or Little Bhavani, which flowing
round their E. side, in some parts sweep-
ing close under them, anon diverge to
a considerable distance, but at last meet
a_ little to the N .E., and thence flow in
one united stream under the general
name of Bhavani, which again empties
itself into the Kavéri. Those who pro-
ceed to the hills from Areot b Ben-
galfir and Maisiir can secure at Iadras
carriages drawn by hores or bullocks.
Tables of charges, and all other par-
ticulars, will be found in Smoulfs edition
of “ Baikie’.s Ncilgl|err1'es.”
The pr1'm'1'p/ll Passes up to the hills
are six. 1st—The Kumir Pass from
Koimbatfir. After leaving Gadahir, a
moderately-sized village, with a fine


Madras.
171
ROUTE 32.-MADRAs To BoMBAY-NíLGIRI HILLS.
£ going to Kolikod for the less
irect, but in some respects more con-
venient, Kunda Pass.
4. The Kunda or Sispárá is remark-
able for its magnificent scenery; and, as
it forms the principal communication
with Kolikod, and so with Malabar and
Bombay, the stages are here given in
detail.
MILITARY AUTHORITY – As far as
Avalanche : Officer commanding S.
Division — Trichinapalli. Thence to
Kolikod: Officer commanding Malabar
and Kanara-Kananür.
CIVIL AUTHORITY-To Avalanche :
Collector of Koimbatúr – Koimbatür.
Thence to Kolikod: Collector of Mala-
bar-Kolikod.
PLACES. STAGES.
M. F. M. F.
From Utakamand bāzār to
Mr. Grove's house ...... . 1 3
Cowhatti................... ... 3 1
x 3 m. to Nanjénád ....... 1 5}
Pudugalúr ................... 1 7}
(a)x4 n. to AVALANCHEb.5
x r. 5 times to Bági Chat-
tram ........................ 8 7#
x r. 7 times to SISPARA b. 8 7}
x r. 6 times and descend
Ghát to Wālākád b...... 57%
x r. twice and descend
Ghat to foot of Nilgiri
Hills, SHOLEKAL b. 5
x 5 bridges to Pariangád 8
Madapallacheri.......... • -
WANDUR b. ... - - -
Yariyettu ............
x n. to Punapalli
Allapeti ..........
Manjeri .............
+ r. rā, to Tiruvâdi ......
YEDAMANA b.............
x n. to Pallapatti. - - -
Perravenné...................
x bridge to Yirrivetti...... 1
Wakalûr ........... • - - - - - - - 1
Putallam......................
ARIAKOD b. on. l. bank
of Bépur river ..... ...... 0
Descend Bépur r. to KO-
LIKOD (Calicut) b, .... 35
}
1
1
4
10 4
• * * * * * * * * *
7
3
1
7
5
rivulet of clear water, and Metopdlliam,
a somewhat larger place, with an ex-
cellent banglá, the traveller crosses a
nearly level plain for six miles, and then
reaches the foot of the Ghât. There is
an excellent road the whole way up. The
maximum slope of the Ghat is 1 foot in
5, the average slope 1 in 12}; but in
many places there are level spots, and
in others counter dips, so that the slope
is rarely so small as the average from top
to bottom. There is no wheel-carriage
traffic by this Ghât. The road passes
through thick jungle and a most pic-
turesque country the whole way. To
the right of the traveller's banglá at
some little distance is an hotel. Though
carriages cannot ascend this Pass, there
is an immense traffic by bullocks, which
ascendit in thousands on the Utakamand
market-day. Travellers from Madras
and the S. £ come by this route,
which is shorter and easier than that by
the Sigür Pass from Bengalúr.
2. At the S.E. angle of the hill
plateau is the Kötagiri (vulg. Koter-
' Pass. The road passes through
tidalár and Metopälliam as before.
The bottom of the Pass is 2 m. 4 f. dis-
tant from the latter place, and at 9 m.
2 f. thence is Kótagiri, whence Utaka-
mand is 14 m. 6 f. distant. This is the
oldest road cut by Government for the
ascent of the Nilgiris, and it led for-
merly to the original sanatarium at
Dimhatti. It is too steep for wheel-
carriages, but it is very practicable for
other traffic. This Pass is well suited for
the march of troops, which, by leavin
Metopälliam at day-break, can ascen
into a cool climate before the sun rises
sufficiently to distress them. It is also
of much importance for the E. parts of
the hills for the passage of produce from
the coffee plantations and the lands cul-
tivated by the Badakars.
3. At the N.W. angle of the plateau
lies the Gūdalór, or Naduwattam Pass,
which communicates with the W. coast
and Kolikod (Calicut), through the
Karkar Pass, and with Kananür and
Tellicheri, through the Wainád country.
The Pass begins at 6 m. 6 f. from
Paiakerra, and is only 5% miles long.
This Pass has been £i of late by
35 0
103 3


172 ROUTE 32.—MADRAS To
BOMBAY-AVALANCHE. Sect. II.
It is very requisite that the traveller
who is going by this route, and, indeed,
by any other Pass into the low country,
should start early in the morning, so as
to avoid the £ of travelling
in the hills by night. At such a vast
elevation the clouds often drive across in
thick masses; rain falls very frequently,
and the bearers, or, as often hap-
pens, the wretched kulis sent in their
place, are but too commonly ill-provided
with torches, so that altogether the be-
nighted traveller may la £ account to
suffer much annoyance from delay, and
either to risk a fall over a precipice, or
to walk, after his palankeen in drizzling
rain and darkness. The traveller must
carefully look to the attendance of his
bearers himself, and see that they are
provided with torches. He must also
call for the postmaster's bill in good
time, so as to be able to settle any dis-
puted charge, for the native clerks often
make attempts at imposition.
(a) The stage to Avalanche is not very
remarkable for beautiful scenery; but,
arrived at Avalanche the traveller may
feast his eyes indeed. This spot has its
name from an extensive land-slip, which
took place in 1824. For eight days be-
fore the slip occurred there were heavy
and continuous rains, accompanied by
heavy rolling thunder and a tempestuous
wind. So thick, too, was the darkness
brooding over that part of the hills, that
none of the natives durst venture from
their homes. When the gloom cleared
away, it was found that the river Pavhk
had swept away a vast portion of the
mountain's side, which descended with
its woods into the valley. The traces,
however, of this event arenownearly obli-
terated. The bangláis prettily situated,
and close by are woods, in which plenty
of game is to be found, not excepting
woodcocks. To the S. and W. stretch
the Kundas, as the S.W. division of the
Nilgiris is called, a range remarkable for
lofty steeps, clothed with belts of the
most verdant forest trees. These be-
come ever thicker towards the ravines,
and end there in impenetrable jungle.
On every side the rhododendron blooms
in rich profusion, and the shrubs attain
the size almost of trees. Ever and anon
from among the wood a glittering cas-
cade leaps out and casts its glassy
shower into the dark basin of rock be-
neath. The clouds driving over the
heights add to the beauty of the scene,
now concealing and now revealing its dif-
ferent parts.
Avalanche banglá, which is 6,720 ft.
above the level of the sea, may very well
claim a week from the traveller to enable
him to visit the most remarkable peaks in
the vicinity. Crossing the summit of
the Avalanche mountain, and proceed-
ing due S., a day's march will bring
him to the Guli-kal, which is 8,585 ft.
above the sea, and whence, in clear
weather, the ocean may be descried
washing the coast of Malabar 50 miles
to the Some miles still further to
the S. are the peaks of Anginda and
Muka Malé, The road is difficult, and
there are morasses, which abound in
tugultis, or dangerous quagmires. This
part of the hills is shrouded in mist and
rain during nine months of the year;
during the other three months the
scenery is beautiful, Bears, tigers, and
elephants occasionally visit this locality.
North of Guli-kal is another remarkable
peak, and one most deserving of a visit,
called Taigannam, or, more commonly,
Murkurti, which is upwards of 8,500
ft. high. The traveller will follow the
winds of the Pavhkriver to its confluence
with the Paikärí. Thence he will trace
the Paikari to its source, which is close
to the Murkurti peak. From the source
of the Paikari an easy ascent of 1% mile
leads to the summit of the peak; and
here, should the mist and clouds fortu-
nately roll away, a grand and awful
scene will present itself to the view.
The W. side of the mountain is a terrific
and perfectly perpendicular precipice of
at least 7,000 ft. The mountain seems
to have been cut sheer through the
centre, leaving not the slightest shelve
or ledge between the pinnacle on which
the traveller stands and the level of the
plains below. To add to the terror of
this sublime view, the spot on which
the gazer places his feet is a mouldering
precipice, the ground being so unstable
that, with a touch, large masses are hurled
down the prodigious height into the bar-


Marl/ras.
acorn 32.—-iunnls ro BonB.uz—nrAx.i1uANn. 113
W
rier forest at the foot of the hills, which
looks at such a distance like moss.
Many parts of this locality are still un-
explored; and the lover of the pic-
turesque, the man of science, and the
sportsman will find unending amusement
around them.
From Avalanche bangle. to Sispara
the road is narrow, steep, and stony;
but the scenery compensates for these
disadvantages. At Sispdrd the descent
into the low country commences in
earnest. On all sides extends a mag-
nificent forest, and this becomes still
denser at Sholekal, which is merely a
traveller’s bangla at the foot of the lllllS.
The traveller will find this bangla fenced
with a huve scaffolding of timber to
keep off the wild elephants. These
animals are very numerous here, and
not unfrequently mischievous. The next
stage, to Wandar, lies through the barrier
forest infested with tigers, elephants, and
other wild beasts, and still more dan c-
rous on account of the malaria. A er
passing Wandfir the jungle gradually
becomes thinner. The road is very
shingly, but preserves its picturesque
character the whole way to the con-
siderable village of Ariakod. In this
stage the eye will often revert to the
Blue Mountains, which seem to rise
like a perpendicular wall from the low
country. Yedamzma is a large village,
and A'n'akod a small town of about 400
houses. The villagers in these parts are
a handsome race, and seem to live
ver comfortably. The men are fairer
more athletic than those of the
Karnatak, and many of the women are
lovel . The journey from Kriakod to
Koli od is performed in a boat, which
asses quietly down the Bépur river.
he banks of the river are prettily
_ wooded and fringed with long grass,
among which repose a number of alliga-
tors. The voyager may amuse himself
the whole way down with rifle shots at
these monsters. The breadth of the
fiver is about 200 yds. Ten miles from
Kolikod the boat leaves the main stream
by a branch, which leads directly to
Kolikod. All along this branch-stream
are retty cottages of the natives. Most
of t e women wear the Mnsalmanf dress,

and run to hide themselves at the ap-
proach of the stranger.
Koli/cod is described elsewhere (vide
Route 48.)
5. The Sigiir Pass is the most fre-
quented of all, being practicable for
laden carts, and other wheeled convey-
ances. The road is carried down the
N. face of the hills, the descent com-
mencing near Mutanad, and endin near
the village of Sigur, eight miles efore
reaching which is Kilpatti, about 5,500
ft. high, where is a good bangla. Tra-
vellers coming from Bengahir should
send a message to some friend on the
hills by electric telegraph, so as to ensure
supplies at Kilpatti. By this Pass com-
munication is kept up with Bengaliir,
Madras, and all placcs to the N. ; and
the chief bulk of the European supplies
and heavy baggage, etc., is brought by
it to Utakamand. The teak timber used
on the hills is also transported by it, as
the road passes near the forests where
teak trees are cut under sanction of
Government, about Tippa Kadu and
M asneamkovil. The trees are felled by
Kurumbars and others; and, after being
lopped and roughl dressed, are dragged
on rude carts by utfalos to the road-
side, where they are sawn into building
pieces and sent on bullock carts to the
Utakamand market. The average rise
in this Pass is l in 15. The head of
the Pass is 7,204 ft. high.
6. The Jllailizr or Su/ndarpzttti Pass,
due S. of Utakamand, is now disused,
though in former years much frequented
by travellers journeying from the E. by
Koimbatfir to the hills. There are the
remains of a very good road still exist-
ing from the top of this Ghat all the
way to Utakamand ; but, owing to
neglect, quagmires have formed in some
parts, and it has thus become impassable
to all but smugglers and Badakars, who
still use it occasionally.
(Z) Utakamamlr-lfotels at Utaka-
mand.—Beside the club-house, there are
two hotels, the Union and the Victoria.
Theexpenses atthese may be given as fol-
lows (see Goa and the Blue Mountains, p.
287; and Smoulfs edition of “Bai/c1'c'.9
Ne1'l_;rIzerrz'es," Calcutta, 1 857,which latter
work is a complete Guide to the Hills) :


174
Sect. II.
ROUTE 32.*HADBAS TO B0)lBAY—UTAKAMAND.
-For a lady or gentleman, £22 per
menscm ; l6a. per day for a broken period,
less than a month; for children under
10 cars, and European servants, 2s.
per ay; for a native ayah, ls. er day.
As a private housekeeper, a achelor
may live for £20 per month, and in
great comfort for £30 per month. There
is no traveller’s bangla. It will be seen
that the prices have grcatl risen since
Dr. Baik1e’s time, as in 's day the
char es were for a single person 10:.
per ay, or £12 per month.
The prinei al place on the Nflgiris,
and that whic alone deserves the name
of a town, is Utakamami, situate in lat.
11° 24', lon . 76° 47', at an elevation of
7,300 ft. a ove the sea, and 1.300 ft.
above the minor stations of Kétagiri
and Kuufir. Its position in the hills is
almost centrical. It lies in a vallcy
o en to the W., but sheltered to the
.E. and S. by the mountain Dodabet,
and the ranges which project from it.
At their base, and on many lesser hills
and knolls, are dotted the ban las of
the Europeans, retty white bur din s,
which gleam out rightl fromamongt e
rich een verdure. T ey are substan-
tially built of burnt bricks, set in clay and
painted with lime, with roofs generally
of tiles, or terraced, rarely of thatch, the
timber being teak. Everywhere the
award is bespangled with beautiful wild
flowers of eve hue. The trees exhibit
a variety of fo ' ge; some covered with
moss seem to be silvered over with the
breath of Winter, others as the rhodo-
dendron, are crimsonemi with flowers.
The numerous streamlets and rills are
lined with the jessamine and the dog-
rose. Several of these rivulets meet at
one oint and fall into a natural basin,
whic , being confined to the S.W. by a
strong mound of earth, forms a lake of
five or six miles in circuit. Utakamand,
roperly so called, is the district to the
El. and N.E. of the lake. The rin-
cipal building in it is St. Step en's
church, a handsome edifice in the Saxo-
Gothic style. Directly N. of the lake
is the district of Kiindalmand, in which
the palace erected by Sir William Rum-
bold, now a clubhouse, is conspicuous.
There is also here a native village. To
jakamand. Around this beautiful
the S. of the lake is the district of Man-
piece
of water, which at one point expands to
a considerable width, at another winds
among gentle hills in a serpentine course,
there is a ublic carriage-road, with
which few srives in any of the
world can compare. To the S.W. in
the distance are seen the Kunda moun-
tains whose peaks, mostl hidden in
clou , seem, when they 0 appear, to
be even higher than the might Dods-
bct. The climate of Utakaman is cold
and damp in the monsoon; at other sea-
sons it is intensely dry, the mean annual
tem erature being 58°. After sunset,
the allin the thermometerisve great;
and, without care, invalids are ikely to
suffer from the sudden change. To
weakly constitutions, the warmer and
more sheltered stations of Kétagiri and
Kunur are preferable.
Arrived at Utakamand, the chief sights
for the traveller are—lst, the Kunda
ran e already described; 2nd, the stone
circ es, which the Tudas call Phins,
and which contain images, urns, relics,
and some very prettily wrou ht gold
ornaments; 3rd, the waterfa at U-
Yél-Hatti, those at the top of the Sigfir
Ghat, and that of Kaiti at Mr. Grove’s
plantations: there is also a fourth,
much finer, in the heart of the Kundas,
formed by the Bhawimi, 400 or 500 ft.
high, with a large bod of water, and
surrounded by scene o the most savage
grandeur, but it is d' cult of access, and
scarcel to be found without a guide;
4th, t e Ran a-Swami temple; 5th,
the fortress 0 Gaganachiki. The na-
tive villages of the Tudas and other
tribes may be visited en route in any of
these expeditions.
The atom-circles are found in many
parts of the hills, but the most conve-
nient locality for a visit from Utaka-
mand is the hill of Karoni, three miles
to the S. The circles are built of rough,
unhewn stone, some of them of a lar e
size, which must have been broug t
from a considerable distance. The his-
tory of their construction is quite un-
known.
There are many beautiful cascades in
various parts of the hills, but those men-


Madras.
175
ROUTE 32.-—MAI>RAS T0 BOMBAY-—UTAKAMAND.
tioned above may be taken as specimens.
En route to U-Yal-Hatti the ruined
fortress of Malékbta, N .W. of Utaka-
rnand, may be visited. It occupies the
N .E. extremity of a range of hills, its
figure being an irregular square, the
diameter of which does not exceed 300
yards. The walls are built of rough
stone, and are surrounded by a dry
ditch, fearfully deep in some arts, and
in general not less than 60 ., with a
breadth, at the surface, of 30 ft. There
is but one entrance, by a causeway little
more than 2 ft. wide, over one of the
deepest parts of the fosse. To the S.E.
are hills of much greater elevation, on
which are the ruins of two watch-towers
built by Ti ii. The road next passes
through the arge Badakar villa e called
Sholrtr, two miles to the .W. of
Malékota, and thence through many
pretty villages to the hamlet of Ballikal,
which is little more than eight miles from
Utakamand. The traveller will next
descend to Sigrir at the base of the
mountains, and thence pass through a
deep forest for 22 miles, abounding with
wild animals. The path now lies over
several chains of mountains, which skirt
the higher lauds of the N ilgiris to the
N .; and from these ridges there are
magnificent and extensive views of
Malsfir. A day's travelling among this
picturesque scenery brings the traveller
to Kzm-age, a Ter-ir-i, or sacred place
of the Tudas, near which three of their
villages are situated. At a short dis-
tance from this is U-Ya’!-Hatti, or
“ The Hamlet of the Cataract.” The
water falls about 60 or 70 ft. into a
natural basin. The scene is rather
picturesque and beautiful than grand.
The same remark applies in a still
stronger degree to the next two falls
noticed above, which are too well known
and too easily visited to require any
particular description here. If inclined
to look for the fourth cataract in the list
here given, the traveller should quit the
road about five miles from Avalanche
bangle, and follow the Bhawani river
due south for four miles, which will
conduct him to it.
In order to visit the temple of Ran-
gaawdmi the traveller will proceed first
of all 15 miles nearl due E. to K6ta-
giri. This station 1s, perhaps, better
suited for invalids than Utakamaud.
The climate is nearly three degrees
warmer, and the variation five less. The
rain which falls is also considerably less,
as the S.W. monsoon seems to spend its
force on the Kuuda range, and reaches
Kotagiri with abated violence. About
five miles from Kétagiri is a beautiful
valley, called the Orange Valley, from
the number of orange and lime trees
that row there. Between this valley
and otagiri, on a plateau about two
miles from the latter place, is the in-
valid station of Dimhatti, which was the
first place colonised by Europeans on
the hills, but is now almost deserted.
At all these places fruits ripen infinitely
better than at Utakamand. At Orange
Valley there is a Government farm.
Leaving Kotagiri, the road descends
about 1,000 ft. to a village called Bel-
liké, in the a proach to which is a low
hill, on which are several monuments,
resembling the stone circles already de-
scribed. After a further descent, the
ruined fortress of Atra is reached,
situated in the centre of the glen, with
here and there an opening in the moun-
tains, through which partial vicws of
the low country may be obtained. The
thermometer here rises to 80°. Limes
and oranges of s ontaneous growth are
in abundance. ence the road passes
to the E. base of the hills, near which is
the sin r conical hill on which is the
temple of Ramaswami. Its isolated situa-
tion and difiiculty of access have perhaps
combined to enhance its sacredness with
the natives. On the top is a solitary
stone, which is an object of worship.
There is a rude shed near, dignified
with the name of temple. This excur-
sion will serve to acquaint the tourist
with the scenery of the E. side of the
Nilgiris. He ma also, en route, visit
Danaikenkoté, an the confluence of the
Ma air and Bhawani rivers.
he fortress of Gaganachiki (Gagzma,
“heaven," chiki, “reaching”), lies S.E.
of Utakamand. The road leads through
the valle of Kaiti, which is, perhaps,
the most eautiful on the hills. On the
E. face of one of the mountains which


176 ROUTE 32.—MADRAS To
BoMBAY-UTAKAMAND. Sect. II.
surround it is the Badakar hamlet of
Kammand, where the traveller may halt
awhile and enjoy the delicious scene. A
few miles further on is the village of
Kaultré, also belonging to the Badakars,
where a halt may be made for the night.
To the N.E. of this village, at the dis-
tance of a few miles, is a fine cataract,
which must be passed on the way to
Gaganachiki. The stream in its fall
forms a vast perpendicular column 100
ft. high, and then dividing into several
minor columns, finds its level 300 or 400
ft. lower down. At about 12 miles dis-
tance from Utakamand, the traveller
comes to the hamlet and ruined fort of
Hulikal £ “tiger,” kal, “rock,” a
chief of the native tribes having slain a
tiger here). Near the village is a de-
serted mortt of the Tudas, situated in a
lovely spot, part of the brow of an im-
mense mountain, beautifully wooded, the
regularity of the trees and the vistas
they afford giving to it all the appear-
ance of being adorned by art. At Huli-
kal the night's halt may be made.
Starting at an early hour next morning,
the traveller will reach in two or three
hours a Badakar village at the foot of
the mountain Gaganachiki, which is par-
tially detached, and stands at the extre-
mity of one of the ribs, which, like
mighty buttresses thrown up to support
the central and more elevated parts,
surround the hills in every direction.
From its base to the walls of the for-
tress on the summit the mountain is
covered with a dense forest, which, to
the height of some thousand feet, re-
sembles the jungles of the plain. Above
that point the trees are loftier, with
large spreading branches, and with little
or no underwood. The approach to the
fortress is most difficult—along the edge
of a precipice where it is necessary to
advance in single file, and that with the
greatest caution. . A narrow gateway
opposite to the principal one, which is
now choked up with trees, admits the
visitor. In the time of Tipú this for-
tress was called Saiyidābād, and was
held by a garrison of 100 men under a
Kiladár named 'Alí Khán. The ruins
'' the whole crest of the mountain,
on the edges of which the walls are
raised. The view from the summit into
the low country is magnificent.
It remains to say something of the
sport to be obtained on the Nilgiris,
and of the natural products. The woods
in general are so ornamentally disposed
as to remind one of the parks in a Euro-
pean country. They are easily beaten,
and, from the end of October to March,
woodcocks are found in them. Jungle
fowl and spur fowl are very nume-
rous, and are excellent eating. Par-
tridges are rare; quails common in the
lower parts of the hills. Snipe come
in in September, and are seldom found
after April. The solitary snipe (Sco-
lopax major) is occasionally shot.
There are blackbirds, larks, thrushes,
woodpeckers, imperial pigeons, blue
wood-pigeons, doves, and green plo-
vers in abundance. There is also an
immense variety of hawks, and among
them a milk-white species, with a large
black mark between the wings; as also
a cream-coloured species. Large black
eagles are occasionally seen; and owls
of various sorts, particularly an immense
horned kind. £ and porcupines
abound, and do much damage to the
gardens. Both are excellent eating;
the flesh of the porcupine resembles
delicate pork. In the most inaccessible
parts of the Kundas the ibex and the
#' sheep or muntjak may be found,
ut are very shy and difficult to approach.
Among the larger game wild hogs and
sámbar, the Cervus Aristotelis or black
Rusa of Cuvier, generally called elk in
India, afford good sport. They are
exceedingly tenacious of life, and some-
times carry off eight or ten balls. Pole-
cats, martins, jackals, wild dogs, and
chitas are numerous. So, too, is the
black bear, especially in the early part
of the monsoon, when they ascend the
hills in pursuit of a large brown beetle,
their favourite food. Among the tall
grass, which is often as high as a man's
head, the royal tiger is not unfrequently
met with. # beast, so ferocious in
the plains, seems to be tamed by the
cold of the hills. When put up by the
beaters it bounds away with ' springs
over the grass or underwood, and is
seldom or never known to attack man.


Mad1'as.
177
ROUTE 32.—-MADRAS T0 B01\[BAY—-ANIM.-\LLli,‘ HILLS.
There are no dangerous snakes, and no
troublesome insects except the flea, which
is easily put to flight by an infusion of
the root of a plant called wassamba by
the natives (Acorus czzlamus).
Among flowers, the commelinea, pedi-
cularis, anagallis, two or three sorts of
jasmines, white and red roses, magnolias,
anemones, two sorts of clematis, three of
ranunculi, 19 kinds of orchideze, etc.,
may be noted. The Brazil cherry, a
small prickly shrub, with a yellow fruit
the size of a cherry, of a sub-acid flavor;
the hill gooseberry, a small branchy
shrub, with short, thick, dark-green
leaves; blackberries; and the Orahis
Mascula, from the last of which the
Salep Misri is obtained,.are found in
profusion, the last-named on the Neddi-
wallé hills, and near N eddiwattam. The
camphor tree grows in the Orange
Valley. There is a teak forest on the
Kunfir Ghiit, which is reserved for Go-
vemmcntuse. The Cliam ani furnishes
a very hard, tough, soli , wood, of a
blue-white-colour, with deep blue streaks,
useful for rafters, door posts, etc. The
bastard cinnamon also supplies a ood
wood, though not equal to the ast.
There is also a deep red wood, called
by the natives Billu, and said to be
proof against insects. Cofl'ee planta-
tions and mulberry trees thrive well,
and all European vegetables may be
had in perfection.
From the Nilgiris the still wilder
range of the Animallé Hills may be
conveniently visited.
Animallé IIz'lls.~—Ab0ut 60 miles S.
of the Nilgiri plateau, and beyond the
dead flat of the plains of Koimbatiir, is
the range of hills known by the name of
the Animallé, or “ elephant hills." The
range gives its name to the village of
Animallé, which is near the foot of it on
the North face, the approach of tra-
vellers to these hills being usually
the village: it is a convenient basis of
further movements, being in the centre
of the N. face of the range, and most of
the passes into the mountains diverge
from this point. The Animallé range
stretches from a little N. of W. to the
E. a little S., with an abrupt face of
about 50 miles to the N., the view of

which on a clear day from the village of
Animallé is magnificent; the slope is
more gradual on the S. and WV. face to-
wards Cochin and the coast, the depth
being about 30 miles in this direction.
This block of hill may be divided into
two distinct portions--the point of divi-
sion being about the village of Ani-
mallé; to theW.of this towards Palghat,
the hills are not much above 3,000 ft.
high, and are covered with a primeval
forest of gigantic teak and other trees,
which supply the Bombay dockyards
with timber. The westerly portion
ranges from 3,000 to 6,000 ft. in eleva-
tion, and has much the peculiar char-
acter and features of the N flgiri hills;
the whole is a continuation of the eat
range of the Westem Ghats, whic , as
they approach the Southern part of the
peninsula, expand into plateaux with
intervals of plain.
These hills are often visited from the
Nfl iris on account of the swarms of
wil game they contain. The Route is
from-
1. Utakamami; 10 miles, to
2. Kunwtr, good hotel at the edge of the
Nilgiri hills; thence down the Kunfir
pass, 15 miles, to
3. Zl[a'ti}m'llz'a-m, where is a bangla,
with servants and food to be had; here
the plain of Koimbatiir commences;
thence 25 miles to
4. Koimbatitr, a civil station, with
travellers’ bangla and servants. From
Koimbatiir by Chettipalliam and Pu-
lachi, about 40 miles of plain, with a fair
road to
5. Animallé, a considerable village,
where the oflice of the superintendent of
the forests is held; there is a good bangla.
The lower portion of the Animallé
range is much varied in level, and inter-
seeted with mountain streams, some of
considerable size, which force their way
throu h rocks, and form cascades of no
smallgieauty; the sound of the falling
water is most refreshing to the traveller
through the forest. The trees consist of
the teak Tectana grandis), several
kinds of Dal ergia (Siau , and the iron-
wood, with its aspen-li e foliage, con-
trasting with the immense lcaves of the
young teak trees. There is not much


178
Sect. II.
aours 32.-—xsnass ro nounsr—sn1mm.i; mus.
underwood, and it is easy to walk in any
direction, the stems of the forest-trees
rising often to the height of 60 ft with-
out a branch, while the s reading folia e
of their heads complete y keeps ofl' the
sun, these huge stems being interlaced
with climbing plants with stems little
inferior to those of their su ports. At
the sides of the streams broad patches of
bamboos are found, which hang over the
water from side to side waving in the
wind, and forming a means of commu-
nication for the monke s, who seem to
delight in passin over t em; no under-
wood grows un er the bamboos, but
there is a deep bed of the fallen leaves,
which have collected for ears, where
the herds of wild cattle Boa gaurus)
are fond of retreating during the day.
These are said to be exactly similar
to those formerly found in Britain,
and still preserved in Chillingham
Park. Sometimes the forest opens out
into clear ark-like glades covered with
rass, wi pools of water and wild
ruit trces, where in the evening the
wild cattle and deer are usually to be
found grazing; these cattle are so nu-
merous that one may see several consi-
derable herds in a walk of a few miles.
At Tunakadu is the residence of the
Superintendent of the forests, with an
establishment for the cutting of timber,
including elephants, who are most use-
ful assistants in dragging and piling the
timber. The logs are usually dragged
by bullocks to the N. face of the range,
when they pass down an inclined plane,
and thence into the river Pun-Err, which
runs through the Palghat opening in
the range, and into the sea on the Ma-
labar coast. From the mouth of the
Punar the timber is shipped for Bom-
bay. Much teak and other timber is
also cut on the S.W'. face of the hills
within the province of the Raja of
Cochin, who has an agent for the ma-
nagement of this portion of his revenue
at the port of Cochin. The teak of this
forest is far superior to that of Burmah
in respect of hardness and durability.
The forest also abounds with ginger,
cardamoms, turmeric, honey, and wax;
the epper-vine covers the huge stems
of tiie trees like ivy, and the sarsa-

parilla a pears in all the newly-cut
paths; w e the pn.rpllfi1Torem'a and a
variety of sweet-sme ' g orchidaceous
plants, contribute to the beauty of the
scenery.
There are but few inhabitants; but
they are a peculiar race, and call them-
selves Kadirs; the live entirely in the
forest, and their abits are sin ar.
The number of wild animals who 'vide
with them the fastnesses of the hills has
rendered them as familiar with the
habits of beasts as with their own : the
facility with which they will track a
deer or a wild bull over ground where,
to an ordinary eye, there is no visible
mark, is quite wonderful; they seem to
follow it without the least hesitation,
like a dog on a strong scent. This
renders them invaluable aids to a sports-
man. They eollect and sell the produce
of the forest, but do little in the way of
cultivation; but the are an honest
plain-s oken race, an easil managed;
their w ole number is not a ove 200.
To a sportsman the Animallé Hills
offer an inexhaustible source of amuse-
ment; herds of wild elephants abound,
and are of some value. They do not
domesticate them here, but shoot them
for the value of their ivory. The sport
re uires a ood shot, for 1llll888 the
bu et be l ged in the brain it has no
effect; the only vulnerable spot being at
the root of the trunk, and a space as
large as the hand on each temple. They
are usually fired at from a distance of
10 or 16 paces, and if the aim be
the huge animal falls perfectly dead at
one shot; but the sport requires nerve,
as a miss may have serious consequences.
The Kadirs re ard them with much
respect, as they ave no means of killing
them. The wild cattle are noble ani-
mals, lar er than an English ox, with
short mue curved horns; the bulls of a
sloe black, the cows of a dee tawny,
but all with white le s as far as alt"-way
up the fore arm an stifle joint. The
activity with which these immense beasts
lea over obstacles and ass through
bro en round is astonishing. When
wounde they are very dangerous anta-
gonists; or even without, when a sulky
old bull is found alone, having been


Madras.
179
nourn 32.—MADRAS T0 Bonnsr-—sm1uALLi: mus.
driven from the herd by his younger
brethren. There are also bears and
tigers, as well as the spotted deer; and
in the bluffs and precipitous parts of the
rocks, the ibex is often to be met with.
There is no part of the world where
stalking can be carried on with so much
success, but it is only during the rainy
months. The forest is perfectly healthy
at that season. In November, when the
wind changes to the west, and the leaves,
under a bright blue sky, become brown
and dry, fever will attack the workmen
by the dozen in a day; and they are
obliged to return to the plains. At that
season stalking is out of the question, as
there is no concealment, and the rustling
of the dry leaves betrays the movements
of the sportsman.
There are some very fine ea les;
and the rhinoceros-birds (hornb' )-—
birds resembling toucans—with their
immense beaks, are continually seen, or
the harsh metallic sound of their note is
heard echoing through the woods. There
are also some good Warblers. One bird
has a singular note. The tone is like a
full clear whistle, but the intervals of
the scale are singularly marked ; and it
gives the idea of some one learning to
whistle. Some flying squirrels and b ack
monke s occupy the upper story of this
leafy dwelling place. The butterflies
and other insects are of great beauty;
and there is a spider of an enormous
size; its body is about two inches long,
striped with black and yellow, and its
legs cover a space as big as the hand.
The web is often met with in the brush-
wood, six ft. square, and strong euou h
to pull off a man’s hat in passing. n
the larger and deeper parts of the rivers
are some fine fish of the Mahasir kind,
which rise well to a fl .
From Animallé to Punakadu is about
16 miles ; 10 through the jungle at the
foot of the hills, which swarms with pea-
fowl and deer, and five miles up the
pass, through magnificent scenerpy; a
mountain stream passes close to una-
kadu, and forms a very beautiful cas-
cade. About 10 miles urther to the S.
is a considerable river, abounding with
fish: there is a pass through the forest
direct to Cochin from this place; the
distance is about 35 miles, but it is a
rough passage. There are many leeches
in this part, whichcontrive to get up 0ne's
legs and to fill themselves before they
are perceived: the Kadirs rub their
legs with tobacco to keep them off;
linen gaiters, pulled over the feet, are
useful for this purpose. The eastern
ortion of the Animallé is above the
evel of the teak-tree, which is not
usually found higher than 3,000 ft.;
there are some to be found near Punachi,
but they are scattered and small,—in
fact there is no teak forest. It is much
intersected with hills and valleys; the
hills are covered with coarse , and
the valleys and vicinity of the streams
are wooded. At Punechi there are two
or three huts, containin a few families;
but, after assing this p ace, the interior
is nninha ited, exce t by wild animals,
which are much the same as about
Tunakadu. The scene
and, from the greater eight, perhaps
grander; and in the highest valleys,
where the rhododendron and willow
hang over the streams, and the ferns
grow on the sides of the slopes, and the
hoar frost in the winter covers everythin
with listening white, the scenery muc
resem les that of England, though there
are few parts of England which equal it.
The eculiar feature is that the forest
fills a l the intersections of the hills, and
does not graduate with brushwood into
the open ground, but ceases suddenly,
the largest forest trees being completely
at the edge, while beyond it is a clear
meadow. As in the Nilgiris, the trees
are rounded at the to , and the branches
gnarled and covere with long white
moss. There are some orchids, but they
difl‘er from those of the lower art of the
range; and the open sides o the hills
are covered with anemones, balsams,
pedicularis, ejacum, and lilies. The
Salep Misti is also found; indeed, ex-
cept in England, the ath is nowhere so
tbronged with a ro ion of flowers as
in these high lan s of the tropics. The
only paths are those made by the deer or
elephants, and by the wild cattle. It is
singular how precisely the wild animals
follow these paths, and with what preci-
sion they are carried to the point in
is more open,


180
Sect. II.
RouTE 32.–MADRAs To BoMBAY-ANIMALLÉ HILLS.
view, however distant—not in a course
up and down the hills, but round them,
observing a regular rise of level, as if they
had been planned by an engineer. The
following is taken from a note made at
the time of an excursion into these
hills by three Englishmen, with Kádir
guides :-
“20TH OCTOBER, 1851.—Left Ani-
mallé £ above the sea, 765 ft) at
2 A.M., and reached the foot of the hills,
about five miles, at daybreak—having
lost our way in the dark. A number of
large squirrels, purple and black, were
playing about the trees. Ascended the
Ghàt on horseback, but not without
much difficulty; it would have been con-
sidered impassable for horses elsewhere,
but the Arabs are as good as mules in
the hills. We went on over a good
path, about 10 miles, to Punāchi (3,000
ft. elevation). There is a fine cascade
just before reaching Punăchi, and an old
coffee plantation, which had been de-
serted, was near the foot of the fall; the
coffee trees were looking healthy, and
were covered with berries of a bright red
and yellow color. After a rest, went on
foot through open ground with scattered
trees, fording the river Turakadwar, and
afterwards along the valley of that
stream, gradually ascending the whole
time as far as a waterfall, where an old
Anakatt bore witness to former culti-
vation. It had rained the whole way,
and we had left the people behind us;
the guide said he was tired, and would
go no further: bivouacked on the rock,
having made a little shelter from the
wind with a few boughs. An old otter
and its young one were playing in the
waterfall in a very amusing way; one of
us shot the mother, and the Kádirs ate
her. Anakatt 3,650 ft. by the barometer.
“21st.—This cascade was at the head
of the valley of the Turakadwār, and on
leaving it the ascent was severe. The
two mountain, peaks, Tangāchi Mallé
and Ekka Mallé (the younger and elder
sisters), were on our right, and the
scenery was magnificent; the grass at
the Anakatt was 10 ft. high, and
being very wet, it was like walking
through a pond. On the hill we got
into an elephant path through the forest,
and followed it. Came suddenly on a
male elephant, and fired two shots at
him from about 15 yds. distance, with-
out effect. The beast turned and strode
through the forest down hill at his best
pace, crashing through the thickest part
of the wood with a terrific noise. We
followed, but could not come on him
again. We had come about seven miles,
and then crossed the river again up to
the middle, and went up a grassy hill
to a small hut, which had been made by
the Kádirs beforehand, near a swamp.
Camped for the day; height, 5,600 ft.
“22nd.—Went to the top of the Ekka
Mallé; height, 7,000 ft. nearly; found
the top grassy, but scantily covered.
This is nearly the highest point of the
whole range. Got a general view all
around. Several cascades visible in the
forest. Saw a fine open valley clear of
trees, about five miles long, leading up
to a conical hill, which appeared like the
water shed of the range. Returned to hut.
“23rd.—From hut to the bottom of
the valley, which we called Michael's
valley; height, 6,000 ft. Very fatigu-
ing walk of about five miles on the
steep side of the hill, covered with long
grass, concealing pointed and loose rocks;
then through a shola or patch of dense
jungle, where we found the carcase of a
deer just killed by a tiger. Found the
track of the elephant of yesterday, but
did not follow it up. Camped in a hut
at the meeting of two small streams;
plenty of fern, rhododendrons, etc.
“24th.—Rainy. Went up Michael's
valley; found numerous tracks of ele-
phants, cattle, and deer. The Kadirs
pointed out the number of the herd of
elephants, distinguished the males from
the females, and the young ones which
had strayed and returned to their mo-
ther's heels; in fact, the whole history
of them was told us from the tracks.
Found a large bull, and fired two balls
into him, but he got off, though he must
have died. Tracked an elephant down
to the south of the conical hill, but
without finding him. Rain all day.
Returned to Michael's valley, and bathed
in the stream; bitter cold.
“25th.—Went again up the valley,
and beat several '' found 'i


Madras.
181
RoUTE 33.—ARcoT To SALEMAND PALGHATCHERI.
hog and monkeys. The ground near
the marsh was much cut up by the hog.
The Kadirs said this valley must swarm
with game in February and March,
when the jungle is burned in the low
grounds; very little at this season.
“26th.—Left Michael's Walley and
returned to the Anakatt; found a fine
buck elk, which £ up close to us,
also a number of toucans and some
eagles. The path lay through the
forest the whole way, but was good
enough, having been made by the ele-
phants; distance, 10 miles.
“27th.—Walked from the Anakatt
to Punāchi, and in the evening went on
to Animallé; distance 25 miles; the
latter part of the way through wet rice-
fields, in the dark.”
There is a road from Tunakádu to
Pálghat, through Chamampadi and
Kolangod; distance, 45 miles. It skirts
the hills through bamboo jungle, after
descending the Ghat, and then stretches
over the cultivated plain, with a road
such as is usually found in the interior
of India; that is, of earth cut up by
carts and the feet of bullocks.
The Animallé hills require more ex-
amination; many parts of them have
not been visited. The eastern portion
of them joins, or nearly joins, another
range of hills, which is said to be still
more stocked with game, among which
the woodcock ought not to be forgotten.
The high lands of the Animallé are quite
capable of cultivation, and are as habit-
able as the Nilgiris, though less cool,
being a degree nearer the equator, and
2,000 ft. lower in elevation.
ROUTE 33.
ARcot To SHRLAM (SALEM) AND PAL-
GHATCHERI, BY THE MANJEWADI
GHAT, SANKERIDRUG, YIROD (ERODE),
AvLNASHI, AND KonMBATúR.
139 m. 1 f. to Salern; 268 m. 1 f. to
A- Palghatcheri.
As this Route is the same as Route 7,
from Arcot as far as Waniambadi, and
agrees with Route 34, from Salem, the
only new stations are those between
Waniambadi and Harir, which therefore
alone are given.
PLACES. St.A.G.E.S.
M. F. M. p.
Madras to VANIAMBADI
b. & t. o. (See Route 7) 125 4 1254
x Branch of Pălăr r. 220
yds. wide to Gowinda-
Puram ... .............. -
Waipampattu.
Kallandaré ....
Kambambattu..
Wakālampatti ..
Katteri........ • •-
x n. to Anusirpatti.........
x n. to TRIPATUR, b.&t.o.
Road to Dharmapuri ......
x n. to Andur......... -
x n, to Koratti .
Kumārampatti.......
Karrumândăpatti .
Kárapattu .... - -
WOMANUR ...............
x Kunattir r. 60 yds. wide
to Motör.................. 1
x n. to Tándipenir........ 2
4|::
x Pennar r. 130 yds. wide
to WARRATANUR ... 2
Kumārampatti............... 0
Peddakungam . -
Yísampaddi..
Mosanpatti
x n to HARU R (a new
Châwadi)................. 1
HARU’R to SALEM
SALEM to PALGHAT-
CHERI
10 4
37 1
129 0
338 6
ROUTE 34.
ĀRNí To SALEM AND PALGHATCHERI,
BY PULöR AND HARöR, YIRoD
(ERODE), AVINASHI, AND KolM-
BATúR.
112 m. 4 f. to Salem; 241 m. 4 f. to
Pálghatcheri.
MILITARY AUTHORITY—As far as
Pedda Manjewadi: Officer Command-
ing Centre Division—Madras. From
Pedda Manjewadi to Pálghatcheri:
Officer Commanding Southern Division
–Trichinápalli.


mň-
182
CIVIL AUTHORITY-To boundary after
Nartampundi: Collector of N. Division
of Arcot–Chittir. From Nartampundi
to Nipatür: Collector of S. Division of
Arcot–Güdulür. Thence to Pallia-
älliam : Collector of Salem–Salem.
rom Palliapalliam to Walaiyar: Col-
lector of Koimbatür—Koimbatür. From
Walaiyar to Palghatcheri: Collector of
Malabar-Kolikod (Calicut).
PLACES. STAGES.
M. F. M. F.
From Arnix n. to Sydapét 1 2
Kallambúr ..... • * * * * * * * * .... 4 3
KASTAMBADI............ 1 7 74
x 2 n. to Páldona ......... 30
Bagumarpéta ... . 2 5
Kunátár .... . 1 3
PULUR, 5. .... 2 0 9 0
Kurimallé ......... .... 36
Kálispákám.................. 2 1
x Chíár r. to NARTAM-
PUNDI .............. .... 3 4 93
Aggram .... ... 1 7
Kallambadi. ... 0 7
Boundary...... ... 0 6
Nyambadi .................. 2 3
x n. to Worwandawādi ... 2 1
PALLAPADI............. ... 2 3 10 3
x n. to Sherampalliam ... 35
Náchipattu .................. 5 1
x Chíár r. to CHANGA-
MAH ..................... 2 3 11 1
x n. to Pulidiyúr ......... 1 5
(damir .............. ... 1 3
PALLIPAT ............... 1 6 4 6
Kattemargu Pungávi . 6 0
NIPATUR................. . 4 2 10 2
x Pennär r. 200 yds. wide,
to Tagárápatti........ .... 14
Rámapuram...... .... 24
Poyapatti ....... . 2 6
Chellapatti .... ... 4 2
Kāwāpatti................... . 1 3
x large n. to HARUR (a
new Châwadi)............ 1 5 14 0
Dudampatti....... .... 1 5
x n. to Gopānādhampatti 3 1
x Wáni r. to Pudupatti 30
x r. to PALLIPE'TA (a
new Ch.áwadi)............ 1 7 9 5
Paperedd"patti............... 2 7
x 2 n. to Wartākaundentir 3 1
x 2 n. to PEDDA MAN-
JEWADI ................. 2 2 8 2
RouTE 34.—ARNí To SALEM AND TALGHATCHERI.
PLACES.
x 4 n. to Kombór (a new
Châwadi).............. •-
Manjewadi Ghat begins...
x r. to ditto-ends.........
Atchakotapatti ......
x m. to KUPANUR.
x n. to Tădentir ............
x 3 n. to Chukampatti.....
x n. to Kallampatti........
x n. to Motupatti..........
x Ayodhiapatnam r., 110
# s. wide to Máshinya-
ampatti...................
x 2 n. to Adigárápatti.....
Ammapéta ..........
Salem begins ...
Rd. to Trichinápalli..... •-
(a) x_Mani Mukta r. to
SALEM FORT, b. & p. o.
Shivapéta................. • -
x Mani Muktā r. to Pedda
Kondapatti.............. •
x ditto to Utama Sholā-
Varam .................... • *
Serrapádi.
Kambapalliam ......
MACDONALD’S
wadi, b.................... • -
Daivaryapatti.. -
w£: -
and ........... - - - -
x # Avarangampálliam
x n. to Venkatanyákam-
alliam........... •- - - -
SANKERIDRUG, b.&t.o.
Rd. to Bhawani ...... - - - -
x n. to Natapalliam .
Kālikalli............... -
x n. to Pádriah......... • -
x 4 n. to Chanámpálliam..
Kahtapalliam................
Ahlámpálliam...............
PALLIAPALLIAM, b....
Kávéri, r, l.b. .. - - -
Ditto, r. b. ..................
x n. to Kárangalpälliam...
(b), YIROD (Erode), b.
& t. 9.......................
Kumulangkóta.............. •
3. n. to Sangolipalliam ...
Mánikapālliam..............
Karkampattu................
Kárpampalliam ............ •
Sect. II.
STAGES.
M. F. M. F.
1 5
1 0
1 6
2 4
1 0 7 7
0 4
1 7
1 5
1 1
1 1
1 2
2 2
0 5
0 6
0 2 11 3
1 0
2 0
2 2
3 6
3 4
0 3 12 7
1 6
1 6
2 0
2 5
2 5
0 3 11 0
1 5
1 04
1 04
2 4
2 0#
1 2}
0.6%
1 0# 11 5
0 2
0 2}
0 73
0. 5 2 1
2 0
1 4
1 7
1 6
2 0


Madras.
183
RouTE 34.—ARNí To PALGHATCHERI—sALEM.
PLACES.
PERUNDURE, b. & t. o.
Wolaipālliam................
Nágappakaundenpälliam..
Vijayamangalam...... ---
Dudipalliam ........
Kunampálliam .....
CHANGAPALLI -
Kálipálliam .................
Perumalnellur
Mutienkanāru •
Tempálliam .......... •-
Avináshilingampálliam....
£ & t. o. ...
x 2 n. to Attaiyampalliam,
Rd. to Nilgiris...........
£ ---
x Wanátangari r. to Tai-
lair .......................
K£óñNPATTI, 5.
Yunjalpälliam... •
Kairayir...... •-
Wutupálliam .......
Araisür ....... Q-
Modinpälliam ... -
Nilambúr ............ •-
x n. to RAMANUJAN
CHATTRAM ............
Totapälliam ........ -
Châwadipalliam
Pulaimaidu ........... • • • •
Upallipálliam, Hutting
Lines.......................
(c)KQIMBATUR (to Jail)
b. & p. o. Trichinápalli
Rd. joins............ -
x n. to Kurchi.
Ishuneri............... -
MADDUKARRE''.........
x n. to Yettimarré •
Pudu-ár ....................
x 2 n. to WALAIYAR ...
x r. to Wattaparé .........
Shulimarré ..................
x Narrāgambuli r. to
GANJITROTE'...........
+ r. to Puducheri..........
Kunatür ............ * - - - - -
Sultânpéta ..................
(d) PALGHATCHERI b.
& t. o. ........... •-
Fort N. Gate
i
6|:
|
|
0
#
124
10 6
8 6
8 5
8 7
5 5
8 7
8 4
7 3
24l 4
This route forms the grand line of
communication between Madras and
the Western Coast, and has therefore
been chosen for the line of the Madras
Railway (see Route 5).
A very good road takes the traveller
through the large villages of Kastam-
badi, and Pulür, to the hamlet of Nar-
tampundi, where the country begins to be
jungly. This increases at Pallapadi,
Changdmah, and Pallipat, all small vil-
lages. Nipatür, on the left bank of the
Pennár, has about 80 houses. The Pen-
nár river, called Southern Pennár, to
distinguish it from a river of the same
name, which falls into the Bay of Ben-
l, 3° to the north of this river, near
ellar, has its name from the Tamil
word Pondru, “Golden,” or the Skr.
word Pindkini, “three-pronged.” It
rises in N., lat, 13° 32'; E. long, 77°
45', to the N. of the Nandidrug hills,
in Maisür. From Maisür it passes into
the Karnātak, at Martanhalli, and falls
into the Bay of Bengal, a mile N. of
Fort St. David, after a course of 245
miles. Gold is found in its sands in
the Karnātak, whence perhaps its name.
There is always water in its channel at
Nipatór. From Pular to Pallipat, the
roads skirts, at the distance of about
eight miles, the Jávenie Hills; and
after Pallipéta, passes through a gorge
of the Shivarāi Hills, for which see
under Salem.
Harir is a considerable village; the
next three stations are small hamlets.
A good road, well shaded with a fine
avenue of trees, leads to Salem. At
Kupdnur, there is a thick bamboo
jungle.
'' Salem, according to Graul, “rocks,”
(Shelam or Chelam), in N. lat. 11° 31',
E. long. 71°12', is the capital of the
Collectorate of the same name, which,
with an area of 8,200 (Thornton),
or 7,499 (Parliamentary Papers, 1857)
square miles, has a population of
1,195,377. The population of Salem
itself was, in 1843, 19,021. The cli-
mate is not considered a healthy one,
being liable to violent alternations of
from 20° to 30°. Intermittent fever is
endemic, and few, if any, strangers
escape during a twelve months' resi-


~_
184
deuce. Often they are attacked within
a few weeks of their arrival. Janna
and February, during which a dry wind rcvails, are specially unhealthy.
Thouggi the town is 1,070 t. above the
level of the sea, it lies in the lowest ‘
part of a valley, about seven miles in
width, formed by the Shivarai Hills
(called also Sheewarry and Shwary)—a
name derived from Shiva, the name of a 1
Hindu god, and Rdf, “ a king"—to the c
N ., and a smaller and nameless range
to the S.
Salem is well built with many hand-
some chawadis, or houses for travel-
lers,_ and is altogether one of the best _
specimens of a native town in this part
of India. The streets are wide, and
lantcd with cocoa nut trees in regular
ines; and there are two very broad
rincipal streets, runnin E. and W.,
aving handsome two-storied houseswith
bastard Italian facades. The Tyromani
river, which has its main source in the
Shivarai hills, forms the boundary of
the town on the N. and W. sides, and
there is a good substantial bridge, with
three arches thrown across it on the W.
side, over which the road into the town
from that quarter passes. This stream,
elsewhere inconsiderable, is made to bear
the appearance of a river near Salem,
by three dams, one at the entrance of
the town, and a second, nine furlongs
ofl', where the river ceases to form the
\V. boundary, and seems to have been
diverted from its natural course for the
defence of the fort, now old and dis-
mantled, two sides of which are washed
by it. The third dam is nine or ten
furlongs lower down the stream.
‘ The face of the surrounding country is
studded with tanks, and during the rains
not less than 200 can be seen from the
brow of the Shivarai hills. VVithin a
circumference of five miles there are 18
of these tanks, from a furlong to ll
miles in diameter. Besides the Tyro-
mani river, which is never entirely dry,
there are 2,400 well s, and 30 large ones,
with steps and arches to descend to the
water. In spite of these being in gene-
ral brackish, the natives drink of them,
and think the water not unwholcsome to
themselves, though they admit that it
noun: 34.——1ia1\'i T0 P.iLG1I.iTCIIERI—SA.LElI.

Sect. II.
is to strangers. As there is abundant
means of irrigation, the land round
Salem is highly cultivated. Of the
arable land, the proportion of wet culti-
vation to dry, is estimated at lg to 3%.
The population of the town, exclusive of
agricultural labourers, consists chiefly of
silk and cotton weavers, and cotton
more than suflicient for their employ-
ment is grown in the vicinity. Upam
cotton, a perennial lant, is indigenous
in the country. e Bourbon cotton
has also been introduced, and is greatly
on the increase, from the congenialit of
the calcareous soil to its growth. e
American sca-island, vine leaf, and Nan-
kin cotton have also been successfully
introduced. Indigo and the common to-
bacco of the country are cultivated ; the
former being manufactured to some ex-
tent»—and all the ordinary grains are
produced. In average seasons, even
from dry cultivation, two and even three
crops are reaped, and grain is, therefore,
cheap. The soil of the country round
Salem varies much. A thin layer of
calcareous and red loam prevails, through
which quartz rocks appear on the sur-
face in many places. ative carbonate
of magnesia, or magnesite, is found in a
ston barren plain, five miles to the
N.V;., in veins running in a vertical
direction through hornblende rock, of
which all the hills about Salem are
formed. lVith this magnesite, chromate
of iron is found, and also thick veins of
quartz. The chief value of this carbo-
nate of magnesia is to form an excellent
cement; but it has also been used in the
preparation of sulphate of magnesia, and
pure magnesia. n the S. of the Col-
lectorate iron ore exists in considerable
quantit , and yields, on fusion, 60 per
cent. 0 metal.
The district of Salem is the principal
seat of the Indian steel manufacture or
writs). The ore occurs generally in t e
low hills, and the quantity exposed above
the surface is so great, that it is not
probable that mining operations will ever
be necessary. The ore is prepared for
smelting by stamping and separating the
quartz from it, by washing it in a cur-
rent of water, or winnowing it like rice.
In most deposits, parts are found where


i_~
Madras.
the quartz is in a state of disintegration,
and these, from the facility with which
they are broken, are selected by the na-
tives for their furnaces. The smeltinv
furnace is from three to five ft. high, and
the ground is hollowed beneath from
eight to twelve inches. From two ft.
diameter at the ground, it tapers to one
foot at top, and is built entirel of clay
Two men can finish one in a ew hours
and it is ready for use next day. The
blast is supplied by two bellows, each
made of a single goat’s skin, with a
bamboo nozzle. The two nozzles meet
in a clay pipe, which passes half-way
through the furnace at the level of the
ground, and by working the bellows
alternately, an uniform blast is main-
tained. A semicircular opening, one ft.
inheight, and in diameter at bottom, is
left in the furnace, and before each
smelting built up with clay. The fur-
nace is then filled with charcoal, and a
lighted coal being placed before the
bellows the fuel is soon kindled; where-
upon a little ore, moistened with water
to prevent its running through the char-
coal, but without any kind of flux, is .
laid on the fuel, and the furnace is filled
up with charcoal. In this manner ore
and fuel are added, and the bellows
plied for four hours. The temporary
wall in front is then broken down, and
the bloom removed with tongs from the
bottom of the furnace, and beaten with a
mallet to separate as much of the vitrified
oxide of iron as possible, and, while red-
hot, it is cut through with a hatchet to
show the quality. It is then sold to the
blacksmiths, who forge it into bars, and
make it into steel.
The iron is forged into bars by sink-
ing the blooms in a small charcoal fur-
nace, and by repeated beatings and
hammerings, to free it from the vitrified
and uureduced oxide of iron. It is thus
formed into bars 12 inches long, 1’;
broad, and 1% thick. In this state it is
full of cracks, and exceedingly red and
short, and were an English manufac-
turer of steel to be told that excellent
cast steel could be made from such iron,
he would treat the assertion with con-
tempt.
It is from this unproinising material,
nourn 34.--Lani TO 1=iiLe1I.iTcnEn1—sALnM.
185
lhowevcr, that Indian steel is always
made. The bars are cut small to ack
close in the crucible, into which rom
half-a-pound to two pounds, according
to the required weight of the mass of
steel, is ut, with one-tenth of the
weight of ied wood, chopped small, and
the whole is covered with one or two
green leaves. The crucible mouth is
then stopped with tempered clay, rammed
close, so as to exclude all air.
The wood which is always selected to
furnish carbon to the iron, is the Cassia
auriculata, and the covering leaves are
those of the Asclepias gigantea, or of the
C'0m'0l1;olus laun_'folz'-us. When the clay
is dry, 20 to 24 crucibles are built up in
the form of an arch, with their bottoms
inwards, in a small furnace urged by
two oatskin bellows. Charcoal is
heape over them, and the blast kept up
for 2% hours, when the process is com-
plete. The crucibles are then removed
and allowed to cool, then broken, and
the steel taken out in a cake. The
crucibles are made of red loam mixed
with charred husk of rice; a rotato
motionis given to this clay in one han ,
' while it is hollowed out with the other.
The steel cakes are prepared for being
drawn into bars by annealing them for
some hours in a charcoal fire. This
operation removes the excess of carbon,
and without it no cake would stand
drawing into bars without breaking.
The antiquity of the Indian process of
making steel is no less astonishing than
its in cnuity, for its theory is extremely
recon ite, and in its discovery there
seems but little room for the agency of
chance. We can hardly doubt that the
tools with which the Egyptians covered
their obelisks and temples of porphyry
and syenite with hieroglyphics, were
made of Indian steel; for there is no
evidence to show that any nation Of
antiquit , save the Hindus, were ac-
quailnte with the art of manufacturing
stee .
Salem is likewise remarkable as bcin_g
the first district in the Madras Presi-
dcncy where a European Zamindfir
possessed land. The holder is Mr-
Fischcr, who claimed the privilege l_>Y
the charter of 1833, and purchased 111


186
Sect. II.
RoUTE 34.—ARNí To PALGHATCHERI—SALEM.
1836 a considerable Zamindári, or es-
tate, eight miles long and six broad.
He pays not less than 10,000 rupees to
Government. By his example and hissue-
cessful experiments in agriculture, plant-
ing, and manufactures, he has done very
much to benefit the part of India in
which he resides. The ryots under him
cultivate the usual Indian grains, and
each is assessed in a fixed proportion of
the crop. With this system the natives
appear perfectly satisfied, and from the
air of comfort about them, and the
rapid multiplication of their numbers,
its excellence cannot be doubted.
The Shivardi Hills, which form one
boundary of the Salem Valley, approach
within five miles of the town, and stretch
north towards the flat land of the Bára-
mahal. Their greatest altitude is 4,190
ft. above Salem, and 5,260 above the
level of the sea. The highest peak is
called Mutu Nád. A few small streams
only are found on these hills, some of
which dry up between the N.E. monsoon
and the return of the S.W. These hills
are at summit but scantily clothed with
vegetation. On their sides, for about
one-third of the ascent, the common
shrubs and trees of the plain are met
with ; the next third is almost wholly
clothed with bamboo, while, on the
upper third and summit, a short, thick,
coarse herbage, long rank grass with
ferns, and a thick stubborn shrub pecu-
liar to the hills, are found. Large wide-
spreading trees, among which the bas-
tard ce predominates, border the
streams. Two passes lead up the hills,
one on the south side, towards Salem,
and one on the north. Previous to 1824
the range was much frequented by in-
valids, £ in June of that year a fatal
disease broke out, assuming the yellow
or remittent form of fever, which caused
the place to be deserted for some time.
The elevation is not above fever £
but, as a general rule, the hills may be
£ free from fever during the dry
months, and it is not till after a fall of
rain that disease prevails to any extent.
The same remarks apply to the Shenda-
mangalam and other mountainous ranges
in this Collectorate.
The cotton tree is found to grow upon
these hills with great luxuriance, and to
yield one ton per acre, whereas in Ceylon
the yield is but from eight to ten cwt.
Thus a single tree will give 2 lbs. pro-
duce, and in Ceylon #. The plants
bear a little in three years, are in full
bearing at six years, and last about thirty
years. Planting and trenching cost about
100 rupees per acre. Mr. Fischer and
many other gentlemen from Madras own
plantations here, and but for the pre-
tended inalienable right of Government
to the soil, every inch of ground would
be cultivated and become incalculably
valuable. The sportsman will find abund-
ance of game in the more jungly parts
of the hills. The forests abound with
elephants, deer, elk, hogs, leopards, and
tigers. The bison, too (Bos cavifrons),
ordinarily frequents this locality, roam-
ing freely after the first showers of the
rainy season, and then seeking the highest
and coolest £ but congregating in
large herds during the heats, and strik-
ing deep into the great woods and val-
leys. In July and August these ani-
mals regularly descend to the plains, to
lick the earth impregnated with natron
or soda, which seems as essential to their
well-doing as common salt is to the
domestic animal when kept in hilly
tracts. Many attempts have been made
to domesticate them, but in vain. They
£ to a gigantic size. Some have
een killed more than six feet high at
the shoulder, and eight feet in girth.
Specimens of the following minerals
were sent from Salem to the Great
Exhibition of 1851:—White kaolin;
# ditto; white ditto composed of
ecayed felspar and soapstone; fawn-
colored ditto; red ditto; soapstone;
corundum; cube-spar; talc and mica;
grey salt; glaze clay; grey and yellow
clays; black clay; light red marl;
variety of icespar; Venetian talc, -
nesia, or magnesite; saltpetre; #.
blue, and green corundum; tourmaline
bloodstone; chromate of iron; terres-
trial native iron, highly magnetic; com-
pact black ironstone; vesicular iron ore;
octohedral crystals of peroxide of iron;
cream-colored and flesh stone-color
ochre; salmon-colored ditto; raw and
burnt sienna. On the same occasion,


Madras.
187
nourn 34.—.iimi T0 Piiteiriircisnnr--irorirn.srrin.
Mr. Fischer and other landholders ex-
hibited specimens of coffee, cotton,
tobacco, and cheroots from Salem and
the ad'oining hills.
A e road, well shaded with trees,
leads to Sankeridrug, a village of about
400 houses. This was a place of some
strength during the war with Tfpii and
Haidar. In 1768 it was the only for-
tress which, in this line of count , held
out for Haidar against Colonel ood.
It was afterwards several times taken
and re-taken during the same war. From
Pallia alliam the road descends towards
the avéri Cauvery). The Kavéri,
perhaps “Ye ow River,” from the Skr.
root kava, “to dye," rises in N. lat.
12° 25', E. long. 76° 34', in the British
district of Kurg, and, after an eastern
course of 41 miles, for the next 20
divides Kurg from Maisfir. Through the
latter province it then flows for about
100 miles, and for the next 40 forms
the boundary between Maisiir and Koim-
batfir. It then descends through the
pass of Kavéripuram, from the E. Ghats,
and near Trichinapalli forms a delta 70
miles long and 80 broad at the base, near
the sea, dividin into several streams,
the principal 0 which is the Kole-
run (“place of slaughter,” from the
Tamil words, kol, “ slaughter,” idam,
“here,” the legend being that a Raja
having finishe a celebrated pagoda in
the vicinity, drowned the workmen in
the river). The Kavéri is lowest in
March, April, and art of May; but,
swollen by the S. . monsoon, inun-
dates its banks in August. By the rich
clay it brings down it renders its delta
the richest soil in S. India. During its
inundation, cotton, sandal-wood, salt-
gptre, etc., are brought down through
t e low country in circular baskets from 9
to 14 ft. in diameter, covered with buffalo
leather. On reachiu their destination
these rimitive vesse s are broken up,
the wicker abandoned, and the leather
carried back on the boatmeu’s heads.
Of the famous Falls, and no less famous
Anakatt of the Kavéri, notices will be
found in the proper places, for which
see Index. It enters the sea after a
course of 472 miles. It is here a deep
and rapid stream, and the road up to its
left bank is bad and stony. The pas-
sage is made in basket boats.
(b) Yi-rod (Erode) is a small town,
which figures in the wars with Tipii.
It anciently belonged to the Naiks of
Madura, from whom it was taken by
Dud Dec Raj, Raja of Maisfir, in 1667
A.D. In 1768, though garrisoned by
200 Europeans and 1,200 Sipahis, and
provided with eight heavy guns and two
mortars, it was surrendered to I-_Iaida.r
by its commander, Captain Orton, with-
out a blow, under rather remarkable
circumstances. Haidar had 'ust before
destroyed a detachment of 50 uropeans
and 200 Sipahis, with two s, and
hurrying on to Yirod he demanded a
surgeon to dress his wounded risoners.
He at the same time requeste Captain
Orton to come out and confer with him,
and on his coming made him prisoner,
and desired him to write an order to
Captain Robinson, the second in com-
mand, to capitulate, which was accord-
inglly done.
ere is nothing to be remarked of
the stations between Yirod and Koimba-
tfir. Perunduré is a large place; Chan-
gapalli a very small hamlet; Aaindski
a village of some size; Kdrmattanpatti
has ten houses.
(c) Koz'mbati'u'.-Koimbatiir (Coimba-
tore), (prop. Koiamathura), in N. lat.
11°, E. long. 77° 1', is the capital of
the Collectorate of the same name,
which, with an area of 8,280 (Thornton),
or 8,151 (Parliamentary Papers) square
miles, has a population of 1,153,862.
The town, the native population of
which does not now exceed 12,000,
stands on the left bank of the river
No el, a tributary of the Kavéri, in a
high, dry, and well-cultivated count ,
and is neatly built. It is abundanty
supplied with wells; but the water they
furnish is brackish, and injurious to the
health of the lower classes who make
use of it. The palace, now in ruins,
which is a little higher than the rest
of the town, is 1,485 ft. above the
level of the sea. This palace was built
by Madana, who was governor under
Haidar ’Ali' for 40 years, and was of the
Liuga sect. During his government
the place was very flourishing, contain-


188
Sect. II-.
norm: 34.--inni ro r.'iLcn.i'rc1ir:ii1—~1roiira.1'rira.
ing 4,000 houses; and Tipu, who had
a great opinion of its salubrity, built a
mosque ere, and occasionally resided
in the palace. Subsequently it sufferctl
much in the Maisiir wars, being often
taken and retaken; and in 1792 Tfpfi
destroyed the fort. Koinibatfir is now
a civil and military station. The houses
inhabited by the Europeans are sub-
stantially built, and generally well
situated; they are placed E. of the
town, and, with the exception of one
near the ol, are quite clear of it. The
name of t e place was anciently Koiam-
paddi, at which time it was a villa e of
a rude tribe called Malashir, the cad
man being called Koia. A Vaylalar
chief, some twenty generations back, is
said to have built a fort at this village,
and chan ed its name to Koiamathura.
The fami y originally aid tribute to the
Rajas of Madura. A out two centuries
$0 the country was conquered by the
aisiir Raja, and the fort was then en-
lar ed.
t the villa e of Periira, about two
miles to the S.%V. of the town, there is a
celebrated pagoda, dedicated to Maha-
deva, and called Mel, or High 6'hz't-
tambra, to distinguish it from another
Chittambra, near Puducheri. This pa-
goda is said to have been erected 3,000
years ago, by a Raja of Madura. There
are four ratha or state cars for the idol,
and a very fine tank entirely lined with
cut stone. The building is highly or-
namented after the Hindu fashion; but
the figures are rude, and some indecent.
The stone of which it is built is very
fine, and its freshness by no means
corresponds with the era ass";gpedb the
brahmans to the work. en ipfi
issued an order for the destruction of all
idolatrous edifices, which was but very
imperfectly obeyed, he excepted this
agoda and two others, those of Mel-
éta, near Scringapatam, and that at
Seringa atam itself.
Koim atiir is but 10 miles distant
from the extreme base of the Nflgiri
Hills, and but 47 from Utakamand, the
principal town there. It is therefore a
good position from whence to visit that
interesting mountain range. The climate,
‘ -'\. is sufficiently cool, without being

subject during the S.W. monsoon to the
excessive humidit of Kanara and Ma-
labar, of which ir T. Munro, when
collector at Kanara, complained so much
in his letters. It owes its agreeable
exemption from heat, partly to its height,
1,400 ft. above the sea; partly to its
being situated in the great chasm of the
Ghats, called the gap of Palghfitcheri.
Here, as in a funnel, the full force of
the strong winds of the S.W. monsoon
is concentrated, while it is equally a
well-known fact that, abreast of this
embouchure, ships commonl experience
a. stronger gale during tlie opposite
monsoon.
A lance at the map will show that
Koim atur holds an im ortant position
in a commercial point 0 view, placed as
it is in the direct line of communication
between Madras, Salem, and Trichin.'1-
palli on the one side, and the \V. coast
on the other; and being moreover the
capital of a great cotton and tobacco
growing Collectorate.
Six inds of cotton are growing at
present in this district. First, Upam
Parthi,* an indigenous annual; 2d, Nat-
tam Parllz 1', an indigenous triennial ; 3rd,
Bourbon; 4th, American ; 5th, Shem Par-
thi, or green seed; 6th, Sliedrla Parthi.
For the first two sorts, the land is ma-
nured b having sheep fed on it till
April. tcr the first rain in that month
it is ploughed four or five times, and
again twice or thrice before sowing in
August, September, or October, accord-
ing to the rains. This ploughing answers
the ur use of harrowing, and renders
the fit for the seed, which is thrown
in “ broad cast,” like common
grains; the seed being first stccpcd in
cow-dung and water, or red earth and
water, to prevent adhesion. As soon as
the seed is sown, a plough follows to
cover it in. The plants show in seven
or eight days. At the end of the month,
a light plough, without iron on the
coulter, is run over the ground to weed
it, and thin the plants. Next month
the weeds are removed by the hand, and
the plants are then strong enough to
resist the weather, and are left to come
' Perth! sigiiifles " cotton with seed."


Madras.
189
nourn 34.—.inNi ro r.iLon.ironEn1—xo1iunA'riia.
to maturity. It is usual to mix the first
species with dry grain, as Bengal gram,
castor oil plant, etc., which are reaped
in the January following. The cotton
plants bear in February and March,
when the first gathering begins, and
lasts till the end of A ril. Should rain
fall in the latter mont , the plantation is
again weeded, and a second gathering
takes place in July and August, which
yields about half the first crop.
The wood, when the plant ceases to
bear, is used for making tatties or
matted shutters, and other domestic pur-
poses, and the seed to fatten cattle. In
this respect, the indigenous plant excels
the Bourbon and American kinds, as
their seeds are said to be injurious to
cattle, being too heating.
The seed is separated from the wood
by the small hand-mill in common use,
the charge for cleaning a -mzm of 25lbs.
being two éinas, and one person can
clean about half a man daily. The seed
fetches one rupee the six or eight mans.
When cultivated on black soil, the
yield of wool increases in proportion to
that of seed; the first gathering giving
one part of wool to three of seed, the
second one part of wool to 31; sccd.
Upam Parthi rows best on dec black
lands, Nattam arthi on light re loam,
mixed with gravel and sand, and on a
red stony soil, and the light soils on which
the common dry grains of the country
can be cultivated.
Bourbon cotton was introduced in
1819. It ows best in red loam, yet it
succeeds well in all light red soils of a
middling quality; but all black soils
should be avoided. The seed should be
sown in Au st, and the lants should
be weeded or a couple o months, and
secured by fences from cattle, which are
exceedingly fond of them. Should there
be no rain, the lants must be watered
occasionall . hey will bear in May of
the year following, and need not be re-
newed for two or three years or more.
The distance between them should be
six ft. The first year will not be so
productive as the second and third. The
neighbourhood of hills should be avoided,
as the dampness they engender is in-
jurious to the produce, and causes tho
i before cotton is again sown in it.

cotton to deteriorate. This cotton is
cultivated chiefly by the Vellalar, Val-
luver, and Kammawer castes; the pro-
portion of wool to seed is one to three.
American cotton seed was distributed
in 1831; but failed, owing to the re-
pugnancc of the natives to innovation in
their mode of cultivation. Subsequently
a farm was established b Government
for its culture, and was iscontinued in
1849, its object having been fullyattained
in demonstrating that the soil and cli-
mate are capable of producing cotton
suitable to the British market.
The Shem Partlu’, so called from its
dark red flower, is cultivated only as a
shrub in flower gardens, and is said to
possess medicinal virtues, being pre-
scribed in inflammatory diseases by the
native doctors.
The Shed:/in Perthi is grown like the
last kind, only in ardens. Both species
reach the heighto eight or ten ft., and
continue bearing for seven or eight years.
They are almost exclusively used for
pagoda lamps, or by brahmaus for making
janjam, i.e., the thread worn by them
as a caste distinction.
The labourers employed in gathering
cotton are paid in kind, about one a.uéi’s
worth of imperfect ods being given to
each daily. Shoul the crop be good,
the hire is made up with a proportion of
clean cotton. A succession of cotton
crops should never be grown in the
same ground, as it im overishes the soil,
and the land should t erefore lie fallow
and be manured for one year at least
The
expense of cleaning cotton is covered by
the sale of the seed. A lar e portion of
the cotton produce of Koim atiir is ma-
nufactured into piece goods for the Tri-
chinapalli, Salem, Maisfir, and Malabar
markets, and a considerable quantit of
cloth is likewise made up for Bombay
and the Persian gulf.
Tobacco is the ancient staple of this
district. There are three kinds, of which
the first, and most valuable, is called by
the natives vddamugain, and also yew-
makappal and cam‘/cappal. From the
thickness and softness of its leaf," its
pungent and peculiar flavour, it is pre-
ferred for chewing by the natives of the


~—
190
W. coast, which is the only
it. It is raised on lands irrigated from
wells, and should they contain saltpetre,
the leaf is improved both in flavour and
appearance, but its saline qualities ren-
der it unfit for smokin or making snuff.
Some, however, raise in one part of the
taluk of Koimbatfir, must be exce ted
from those remarks, being of cxce ent
quality for eve urpose, and capable of
being preserve or two years.
The second kind, called tenmugam, is
of the same description as that grown in
Dindigal and Madura. The leaf is
larger than that of the vddamugam. It
is raised by irrigation, and is much pre-
ferred for smokin and making snuff,
but is too harsh or chewing, and will
not keep long. It is in great request on
the W. coast.
The third kind, called mdnagadi, is
raised only on lands suited for dry grains,
and is never irri ted. Itis used for
smoking and snu , but is too bitter for
chewing, and cannot be ke t long. Su-
perior tobacco is produce in the taluks
of Koimbatiir, Palladam, Cheyiir, Danai-
kenkéta, Chakragadi, and Palachi, and
upwards of 4,000 kham_iis(candi'es arcan-
nually ex orted to S. Malabar, raven-
core, and ochin, besides large quantities
sent to Trichinapalli and Maisfir. The
superiority of this tobacco is attributed
to the richness of the soil, and to irriga-
tion from wells containing much salt-
petre.
The mode of culture is as follows :——
The plant is grown in garden lands,
artificially irrigated from wells. A crop
of dry grain is reviously grown; then
from May to eptember the land lies
fallow, and sheep are folded on it, after
which it is got ready for tobacco. The
period for sowing in beds is September
and October, and for transplanting
November and December; the harvest
being in March and April of next year.
The land is ploughed six or seven times,
and divided into beds of five or six ft.
square. The young plants are watered
for thirt or forty days, according to the
soil, an when they have thrown out
three or four leaves, are transplanted
into beds, each containing about twenty
nlaiits, and watered every second or third
market for
aotrrs 34.—.'uziwi ro 1>.iLon.i'rcunn1—-xomasrfin. Sect. II.
day till ripe. At the end of a month,
when the plants have thrown out e' ht
or more leaves, they are topped. o
render the leaf long, eight or ten leaves
are left; but if short leaves are desired,
from ten to twelve are left. In the
second month, the plants throw out buds
which are cautiously removed, care being
taken to keep them free from weeds.
They come to maturity in four months,
and when cut are spread out to dry.
To keep the leaves on the ground for
more than one day, is thought to injure
tobacco. They sometimes, however,
remain two days, but never longer.
After gathering the leaves, they are
dried on the milk-hedge (Euplioréia
tirucalli), which is supposed to impart
a superior quality to t e tobacco. No
other hedge is used for this purpose,
and when this is not available, stron
poles are driven into the ground, an
the leaves are hung on ropes fixed to
them. The drying is continued in the
o en air fifteen days; should the wea-
t er be wet, or the dews heavy, the
leaves are placed in the sheds; but are
never smoke-dried in this district. After
hanging fifteen or twenty days, and
attaining a reddish-brown colour, the
leaves are collected in heaps under sheds,
and turned once every third day, for
nine da s, when they are stri ped from
the s and tied in loose lliundles of
thirty or forty each. These are again
packed in heaps and frequentl turned
or teu days more. In these bundles,
the stalk ends of the leaves are alwa
outwards, the points meeting in t e
centre. The last process is to tie the
tobacco in parcels of ten to twelve
bundles, weighing about four pounds
each, which arc pressed with planks or
heavy weights, and occasionally turned,
to prevent their bein in'ured by heat :
tho tobacco is then t or the market.
The tobacco raised in this district is
liable to deterioration, from scarcity of
rain or well-water, cloudy and fog
weather, and E. winds. Should it not
be sufiicicntl watered at the time of
being toppe , the plant is liable to
injury from the roots throwing out
sprouts of white appearance, like aspa-
ragus, called by the natives kdlam,


Madras.
191
ROUTE 37.*MADB.AS TO POINT CALIMEBE.
which stops the growth of the leaf, and
injures its qllliality. When trans lanted,
if the weat er is unseasonably y, the
leaves become covered with spots called
gun, which are very injurious to the
tobacco. Should it be cloudy and foggy
at the time the plants are topped, or
should an E. wind prevail, the leaves
become white, as if sprinkled with ashes,
and are entirely destroyed. This blight
is called sdmbal.
Tobacco exhausts land very much, so
that frequent and regular manuring is
requisite. It is therefore grown only
every alternate year, with cholam and
other dry grains. It thrives best in red
lands containing the peroxide of iron.
All classes grow it, the richer ryots
allowing one-third of their gardens to
it, the oorer a fourth. That which is
exporte costs on the spot 25 rupees for
a khanqii (candy) of 500 lbs.
Ivory must be included among
staples of Koimbatur. Government
gives a reward of 70 rupees for each
eleplsiant destroyed, appropriating the
tus ; but, as the largest and finest
pairs are worth from 80 to 90 rupees,
many elephants are killed by the natives
which are never reported to the author-
ities. Saltpetre is also largely manu-
factured.
At the village of Pattdle’, in the taluk
of Kfingiam, the most highly-prized
varieties of the beryl or Aqua-marine
are found. A mine near the villa ewas
once worked by Mr. Heath, but 1s now
closed. Specimens of white and blue
sapiphires, found in this district, of beryl,
an of the different kinds of wood, were
sent from this Collectoratc to the Great
Exhibition. The sandal-tree is found
in jungles at the base of the hills in
Koimbatiir, and teak and other valuable
trees abound in the cat forests near
the Animallé Hills an other parts. In
these forests the sportsman will find
abundant employment for his rifle, and
in the more open country the snipe
shooting is excellent.
From Koimbatiir to Palghatcheri the
road lies through a very jungly country.
Madukaré and Gan/akété are large vil-
lages, Wdlaiydr a small hamlet.
(d) Pdlghdtclzeri (Palacacherry), in N.
the
lat. 10° 45', E. long. 76° 38', stands in a
funnel-shaped gap of the Western Ghats,
about 20 miles broad, and is distant
from the sea about 45 miles, above the
level of which it is elevated 800 ft. It
is a large town and military-Canton-
ment situated on the N. or right bank
of the Pala, the principal feeder of the
Piniani (or Ponany) river. The surface
of the countr is undulating as far as
the hills, whic rise abruptly on either
side, distant seven miles to the N. and
13 to the S. In the E. or inland direc-
tion, the country rises adually for
several miles, and to the . there is a
gentle descent to the sea. The view
around is ve beautiful, and the sports-
man will fin himself well located for
sportin excursions in forests of statel
teak w ich clothe the hills aroun .
Palghat is the capital of a téluk, with
upwards of 100,000 inhabitants. Five
roads proceed thence; three to the W.
and two to the E., the princi al of which
is the great Koimbatfir ro . The fort
was built by Haidar ’Ali in 1757, when
he first entered Malabar, to assist the
Nair nsjs of the lace against the Rajas
of Cochin and K0 ikod. It stands at the
S.E. corner of the cantonment, and is a
fine structure ; square, with round bas-
tions and curtains, surrounded by a.
ditch 21 ft. deep and 15 broad, the area
within measuring 160 square yards. On
the 15th of November, 1783, it was
taken by Colonel Fullarton from the
Maisfireans after a brisk defence, and,
shortly afterwards, restored to them. It
was again captured by Colonel Stuart
in 1790 after a feeble resistance, though
it then mounted 60 guns. From this
place, Kanara and Malabar, or the
N flgiris, may be conveniently visited.
ROUTE 37.
MADRAS ro ronvr xsnnmnru (cnu-
mmn), BY snnnss, ALAMPARVA, PU-
nvcnnru, efinsnun, SHBALLI, TAL-
LANGAMBADI rnsnaunnsn), iviiofm
(ivixeonn), NAGAPATNAM (NEGAI’A-
TAM), AND xnnimonu. 217 M. 3 F.
MILITARY Au'rnonI'rr—To Vellar r.
after Ramalinga: Ofiicer commanding
Centre Division—Madras. Thence to


192
Sect. II.
RoUTE 37.—MADRAs To PoinT CALIMERE-KARIKAL.
Point Calimere: Officer commanding
Southern Division–Trichindpalli.
CIVIL AUTHORITY-To Tainpákam,
after Alamparva: Collector of Chengal-
patt–Pallikarni. Thence to Bomin-
filliam, after Kunimode: Collector of
. Arcot–Giudulär. Thence to Kainya
Kovil, after Puducheri–French Ter-
ritory. Thence to Ammaipéta: Col-
lector of S. Arcot–Güdalir. Thence
to Râmalingareddi Châwadi; Collector
of Tanjūr-Tanjur. To Wangi r. :
French Territory. To Point Calimere:
Collector of Tanjar–Tanjür.
For this Route to Sadras see Route 3.
Thence to Pudu Chattram see Route 11.
PLACES. STAGES.
M. F. F.M.
Madras to SHOLANGA-
NELLUR ................ 13 1
Tripalir, t. o. ............... 13 1
Sadras Fort, b. & t. o. ..... 14 2
Chikanakuppam ............ 13 3
Alamparva, b, ...... - - - 8 6
Kunimode.................... 13 3
Puducheri, Gūdalúr Gate,
b. p. o. ..................... 12 1
Manjikuppam, b. p. o...... 11 7
Chonian Châwadi, b, ...... 9 1
Rámalinga or Pudu Chat-
tram, b......... • * * * * * * * * * * * * 6 7
Ammaipéta, b, .. 11 1
Shealli, b. t. o. .. • - 10 4
Tallichenkadu ............... 9 3
Tallangambadi (Tranque-
bar), t. 9................... 10 6
Purayár .... 2 0
Boundary... 1 6
Kóticheri... ... 2 2
Ramalingareddi Châwadi 1 6
(a) KARIKAL, t. 9........ 1 6 9 4
3: Wangi and Arrasilé or
Arsilär r, to Woditoré 1 1
X Tirumalleraien r. to
Tirumalleraien Patnam 2 4
x Párawaddayen r. to
Wanjiar .................. 27
Boundary ..................... 0 4
(b) x Wetär r. to Nagūr t. o. 1 2
Påpencheri ... ........ 16
Wellipalliam.................. 1 4
(*) NAGAPATNAM (Ne-
gapatam) t. 9, ............ 1 2 12 6
x Walliar r. to Patán-
cheri ............. - - - - - - - - 1 3
TLACES, STAGES.
M. F. M. F.
x Vellawari r. to Puyár
(North) .................... 1 0
Mutuswami Kaundin Chá-
Wadi........................ 2 1
Wellamkani, near Kein-
eerpéta................... . 1 5
x Walliar r. to Pudupalli 1 7
TIRUPUNDI .............. 2 2 10 2
Wuden Châwadi ............ 2 4
Táden Châwadi ............ 32
Manmadevi.................. 2 0
x 2 r. to KALLIMODU 2 3 10 1
Pushpawanam............... 1 5
Tetagudi........ 2 0
Tellugudi ......... 1 3
Mogaduwaram ... 1 7
Mahārājapuram .... 0 5
WADARNIAM, t. o. ...... 1 4 90
Agatyampalli........ • * * * * * * * 1 0
x a backwater 1 m. 1 f.
broad to Korapallam.... 24
Kuduvikáran Chávadi..... 3 1
x Upanar r. to Kodikarré 0 4
Collector's House........... 0 5
(d) POINTKALLIMETU
(CALIMERE), t. o. .... 02 80
217 3
This Route may be taken by a tra-
veller desirous of keeping along the sea-
coast on his way to Tanjūr, which is
distant 79 miles from Point Calimere;
or of retaining the sea breezes, as far as
the latter place, on his way to Râmnad
and Rāmeshwaram, and finishing the
rest of the journey by boat. The various
places of interest, as far as Tranquebar,
have been already described. (Vide
Routes 3 and 11).
(a) Karikal.—A well-constructed,
broad, straight road, shaded by tamarind
trees, and made lately by the English Go-
vernment, since its occupation of the
Danish territory of Tranquebar, leads to
Karikal. On either side are extensive
rice-fields, which in August and Septem-
ber are dressed in the richest green. In
the back-ground are the many snow-white
houses of Tranquebar, formerly inha-
bited by Danes, but now deserted. The
road is crossed by many canals and water-
courses, which are passed, where the
water is deep, in ferry-boats. These are


Madras. RouTE 37.—MADRAs To PorNT CALIMERE-NAGAPATNAM.
193
always ready, for the traffic on the road
is great. On entering Kárikal the tra-
veller will remark a neatness charac-
teristic of the French. The town stretches
along the road for some distance. It is
the capital of a territory of 63 square
miles, with a population of 49,307 per-
sons, divided into five districts. These are
Kárikal, Tirnelár, Nellajendür, Nedu-
gadu, Kóticheri. The total superficies of
these five districts, consisting of 39,985
acres, was thus distributed in 1836:-
ACRES.
Cultivated lands............ 21,030
Villages of concession or
In’ám lands...... - 1,512
Rice grounds ............... 3,010
Uncultivated for want of
Water...................... 4,340
Woods and jungle - 208
Salt marshes................ 87
Occupied by buildings... 2,230
Public lands ............... 7,568
The soil of Kárikal is very fertile, and
is watered by six small rivers, and 14
# canals, with their branches.
arikal is situated one mile and a half
from a branch of the Kávéri called the
Arsilär, the mouth of which is ob-
structed in the dry season by a bar
which no vessel can cross, but in the
rains flat-bottomed boats can take in
cargo off the town. This territory was
restored to the French in 1814 on con-
dition of no fortifications being erected
on it, and no military being retained
there except such as should be requisite
for police purposes.
(b) Nagar.—The next place of import-
ance after leaving Kârikal is Nagir (vulg.
Nagore), “snake-town,” on the estuary of
a small branch of the river Kolerun. At
high water during the springs there are
eight ft. of water on the bar. , Vessels
of 200 and 300 tons belong to this port,
and trade with Sumatra, the Straits of
Malacca, etc. There is a considerable
Muhammadan population, and a brisk
trade in cotton, rice, etc. The town is
easily distinguishable at sea by five white
pagodas.
(c) Nagapatnam.—At a short distance
is Nagapatnam (Negapatam), “snake
city.”
This is a place of considerable
trade, and has a population of up-
wards of 10,000 persons, many of
whom are the descendants of the
Dutch, and Portuguese colonists who
formerly possessed it. In 1660 it
was taken from the Portuguese by the
Dutch, who strengthened the fortifica-
tions, and made it the capital of their
ossessions on the Coromandel coast.
n 1781, the English under Sir Hoctor
Munro, with a force of but 4,000 men,
took it from the Dutch, whose garrison
amounted to 6,551. Next year an in-
decisive naval action was fought off the
ort between Sir Edward Hughes and
uffrein. The town stands in an open,
level, sandy plain, with a gentle slope to
the sea, above which it is not elevated
more than three or four ft. It is built
in a straggling manner, and occupies
a considerable area. Three principal
streets or thoroughfares, which are wide,
open, and airy, intersect the town. Of
these, two run parallel to each other,
one at the E. and the other at the W.
end, being connected by the third nearly
in the centre, and from them all the
other streets, which are little better
than narrow lanes, branch off. To the
W. of the town, facing the esplanade,
which runs between them and the sea,
are the houses of the European resi-
dents. There are still some remains of
the old Dutch fort, though most of the
stones have been removed by the Eng-
lish, and used in constructing the pier.
S. of the town the Valanganey river
empties itself into the sea. Near its
mouth is a long bar of sand, on which,
in stormy weather, there is a tremendous
surf. Still the port is visited by small
vessels, and carries on a fair amount of
trade with Ceylon. The roads in the
vicinity are remarkably good; and in
spite of a considerable salt marsh, which
lies contiguous, the station is considered
eminently healthy. The barracks for
the native detachment located here
are to the N.W. of the esplanade, and
the building was formerly a Dutch
dwelling-house. The gaol is spacious,
lofty, and commodious. It fronts the
sea, and is distant from it about 50
yards.
There is here a gigantic ruin, whose


9


-
194
massiveness has defied all attempts at
its destruction. It is doubtful whether
it is a Buddhist or Jain temple, though
tradition assigns it to the latter sect, of
which there are still some professors in
the neighbourhood. There is also a
Jesuit College, which was burned down
a few years ago, but has been rebuilt.
The old Dutch burial ground is thickl
studded with monuments, some of whic
are large and remarkable. The Dutch
church has been appropriated by the
English. The £ house is a
handsome residence, and well situated.
The journey from Negapatam to
Point Calimere occupies about 18 hours
in a pálkí or bullock-carriage. The
road is good, but crossed with many
canals and water-courses. Tirupundi
is a moderate-sized village, Kallimodu
about one-half smaller. The sea is
about two miles distant to the left.
Vedaranyam is considerably larger than
the other two stations; after quitting
it the country becomes more and more
desolate.
(d) Point Kallimetu.—There is a
small village at Point Calimere, and
a comfortable banglá belonging to the
Collector of Tanjūr, who visits the
spot twice a year for the collection
of revenue. The banglá is five minutes'
walk from the sea, near which is
also a good encamping £ The
soil around is sandy, but passable
for wheeled vehicles. The nearest vil-
lage, Kodikarni, is situated on the edge
of a thick jungle, and herds of antelope
are often seen in the vicinity. To the
W. is a vast salt marsh, which, how-
ever, does not make the place insalu-
brious. On the contrary, the sea breeze
is most refreshing and invigorating to
those whose nerves have been shattered
by the heat of the upper country. The
Cape, called Point Calimere, juts sharply
out into the sea. The word Calimere
is an Anglo-Indian corruption of the
Tamil Kallimetu, “Euphorbia Hill.”
At the point a lofty white pillar has been
lately erected to serve as a mark for
vessels £ the coast. Boats can
always be obtained for a passage to
Ceylon, or along the coast to Rāmesh-
waram, etc.
RoUTE 38.-TRIVANDERAM To PonANI.
Sect. II.
ROUTE 38.
TRIVANDERAM To PoNANI, BY KAYAN
KULAM (QUILoN) ÁLAPALLI (ALEPPY),
AND KACHHI (CoCHIN).
95 M.
MILITARY AUTHORITY.—Officer com-
manding S. Division–Trichindpalli.
CIVIL AUTHORITY.—To Kodangalir
r., after Manapath: Resident of Tra-
vancore and Cochin–Trivanderam.
Thence to Ponâni: Collector of Mala-
bar-Kolikod (Calicut).
PLACES. STAGES
M. F. M. F.
'' Trivanderam to Pattanam 2 2
lar ......................... ... 2 0
KALIKULAM ... 4 2 8 4
Pallipuram. ... 2 0
Yeddakod.................... 5 7
(b) ATTANGADI or AT-
TANGAL (near this is -
(c) £ • * * * * - - - - 2 4 10 3
x r. to Maiverakal......... 1 4
Pulair ................. • - - - - - - - 3 3
NAUKOLAM .... 22 7 1
Kaddamhatúnam.. 2 2
Shâtentir...................... 5 5
x PARA-AR r. to MAI-
LAKAD... ........ 1 4 93
Wadakakaré .. ..... 24
Vadakavilla................... 2 2
(d) KAYAN KULAM
(QUILON), b. t. o....... 1 6 6 4
From Artillery Barracks to
Minutucheri .............. 4 1
Saktikolangaré .............. 1 0
x Kayan Kulam r. to
Ambalam Kovil.. ... 2 5
SHAWERRE’. ... 3 6 11 4
Allapadutór .................. 3 1
x Sirupalli r. to Padda-
nairkolamkerré .......... . 2 5
KARNAGAPALLI........ 1 0 6 6
Potan-tera-u................. 1 0
Shangamkolamkerré ....... 1 6
x r. to Krishnapuram...... 3 3
x a backwater to KAYAN
KULAM .. ... 2 1 8 2
Râmpur .............. ... 1 6
KASTIGAPALLI......... 33 7 3
Aripád ....... • * * * * * * * * * * * * .... 1 6
x n. to Sunga Chaukí ..... 5 6
x 2 n. to PARRAKAD... 3 4 11 0
Ambalapalli................. . 2 1


Madras. RouTE 38.—TRIVANDERAM To PonáNI—TRIVANDERAM.
195
PLACES.
Padiamkolamkerré ....... •-
(e) x 2 small saltwater n. to
ALAPALLI(ALEPPY)
t; 0, ........ - - - - • * * *
x 4 n. to Kátárpalli •-
Aritangalpalli............... •
KUNJETTI-ANDAR-
HALLI ......... • -
Boundary.....................
MARRAWAKAD .........
Thánah and Chauki .... ..
Manacheri ..................
(f)KACHHI (COCHIN),
b. *. o. ... ..................
x the bar to NAURAKA
Noyār Ambálam ............
x a channel 220 yds. wide
to Kolakale Kholāgam...
AYAKOTA or MANA-
PATH .....................
x Kodangalúr r. to N. bank
Jayíkod Muri................
Wadathod Kāma Muri......
Padthenetré .........
Boundary—a Palace .......
KO’TAPERAMBA–AN-
GADI .....................
x a channel to Shri Nä-
rāyana Palace ............
Madthelogam, b, ............
PERINGANAM ...........
Kaipamangalam Ambalam
Kannan Kulam ..... • - - - -
Kankathod bridge .
WALLAPAD ...
Wadanapalli................
Thirtalatháver Ambálam...
x a channel to CHAITWA,
5. t. o. ......................
x Chaitwa r. .....
Salt Godowns ..... ...
Valankád.......... •-
CHAUKAD ................
x a backwater to Yeddi-
kolipalli............. • -
MANALKUNAM.
Andatodu...............
Palapatti-ambalam - - -
Weliangod...................
x r. to Ponáni begins .....
(g) PONANI ends b. t. o.
|
STAGES.
F. M. F.
6
4 10 3
4
6
5 13 7
4
5 10 1
7
4
4 8 7
5 6 5
6
0
3. 8 1
0
0
0
5
0
1 8 6
0
1
7 6 0
6
3
0
5 8 6
2
7
6 7 7
4
6
2
2 3 6
1
4 6 5
1
0
1
1
1 8 4
195
(a) Trivanderam, in lat. 8°28', long.
77° 2', is the capital of the province
of Tiruvankodu (Travancore), and is
situated about a mile and a half in a
direct line from the sea, with which it
is nearly on a level. There are no
means of estimating the population, but
the town is large, lying outside the fort,
in which the Rājā and his family re-
side, and extending chiefly towards the N.
At the extremity of the town, in that
direction, are the barracks and the old
cantonment, formerly occupied by a
regiment of Native in: and a de-
tachment of Artillery, and now the head
quarters of the Nair Brigade. A mile
to the E. of the fort, and elevated con-
siderably above it, is the Residency, near
which the medical officer resides, the
hospital and the lines for the escort
being close at hand. The fort is about
half a mile square, and has no ditch.
The walls are of mud, with the excep-
tion of part of the W. and N. sides,
which are faced with stone. About
5,000 people reside within the fort, but
the population of the town without the
walls is very much larger. The Rajá
is a man well versed in European science
and literature, but still, strangely enough,
a bigoted follower of the Hindú religion.
In 1837, he erected on an eminence out-
side the town, and 195 ft. above the sea,
an observatory 78 ft. long from E. to W.
and 38 ft. broad. It contains a transit
instrument, a transit clock, two mural
circles, an altitude instrument, an azi-
muth instrument, and two powerful
telescopes, one a refractor, and the other
a reflector; as well as meteorological,
magnetic, and pendulum apparatus.
The Rājā was a considerable contri-
butor to the Great Exhibition, and the
ivory chair he presented to the Queen
was one of the most beautiful objects
exhibited. It is now placed in St.
George's Chapel, Windsor, and is the
throne on which the Queen sits when
she holds a Chapter of the Garter.
The Ghats in the vicinity of Trivan-
deram are worth exploring, for the
scenery is singularly beautiful, and game
of all kinds abounds. The traveller
may proceed 16 miles to Arienäd by a
tolerable road, which frequently tra-


~_
196 noun: 38.—'riiivsivnnnair
verses, however, lar e tracts of rice
grounds and steep ri ges covered with
Jungle. The second march, crossing
several elevated ridges, is to Kaviatten
Kudal, ei ht miles nearer to the base of
the bills. he road is tolerably good, and
asses through a very picturesque un-
dulating country much covered with
jungle. The encampin place at Ka-
viatten Kudal is on t e banks of a
branch of the Karamoné river, and is
only 430 ft. above the sea. The third
march conducts the traveller to a hi h
art, though not to the summit of t e
hills. The road lies through lonely
forests and over wooded rid es to the
Attiar, a small river at the oot of the
hills, and 1,230 ft. above the sea. Hence
the ascent is more stec , through a dense
and almost impenetrab e forest of magni-
ficent trees, which form a canopy im-
pervious to the sun, and beneath which
the temperature is cool and pleasant.
The traveller now comes to a ridge, a
kind of promonto or projection of
rock, on which are t e remains of an old
barrier, and whence there is a magnifi-
cent view of the plain below. Beyond
this is a plateau covered with noble
forest trees, which is terminated by
another ridge, and beyond this a in is a
dense low jungle, the abode of e ephants
and innumerable wild beasts. The
course now turns to the right, over very
rough ground, and an encamping place
may bc selected near one of the rivulets of
deliciously cool water, which here flow
down from the hills. The height is
here about 4,000 ft. and the thermo-
meter falls to 65° Fah. in the morning.
The view to the S. of the Agastya peak,
towering up 7,000 ft., now capped with
clouds and now glitterin in the sun-
light, is from this spot t y_ grand. It
is requisite to light great piles of wood
to scare away t e wild_ beasts, and to
give warmth to the natives, who suffer
pitiably from the cold of these elevated
regions. On the fourth morning a march
of two miles carries the travellerto the very
summit of the Ghats, whence he has a
magnificent view on each side of the
hills, as well as over the Tiruvankodu
coun to the sea on the W., as towards
Pirpanasham in the Tinnevelli Collector-
ro i>oiu'1\'I—-a'r'rsn*osi>r. Sect. II.
ate to the E. The elevation is here
about 6,000 ft., and the climate not dis-
similar to the Nilgiris. The whole sur-
face of the table land is trampled all
over by elephants, who make this a
favorite resort from the jungles below.
Tigers too are very numerous, and may
be easily hunted out of the sholas, or
open patches of jungle.
(11) Attangadi is notable as the resi-
dence of the Tamburettis, or Princesses
who had been from time immemorial
queens of Tiruvankodu, until Réja Mar-
tanda Deva Varmah, who died in 1758,
persuaded the reigning Tamburetti to re-
sign the soverei n authority to the Raj as,
both for herself and her successors.
treaty to this effect was accordin ly in-
scribed on a silver plate, and rati ed by
the most solemn imprecations. It is
surprising that no account of this place
is to be found in the Gazetteers or
topographical works relating to India.
Forbes, in his Oriental Memoirs, merely
mentions it with regard to an anecdote,
confirmation of which he obtained there.
The story was told by a Mr. Grose, and
pugported that a Malabar woman, who
a
lady, visited Attangadi, and appeared in
the queen’s presence with her bosom
covered. This is contrary to the custom
of Malabar and Tiruvankodu, where all
females are naked to the waist. The
gueen of Attinga was so offended at this
eviation from the usage of the country,
which she regarded as an insult to her-
self, that she ordered the unfortunate
woman’s breasts to be cut olf, a mandate
which was rigorously put in execution.
Forbes mentions that, at the close of the
17th century, the Mapillas attacked the
English chief of Anjengo and his suite,
who were paying a public visit to the
ueen of Attinga, and put them all to
eath close to her palace; and, in some
instances, in her very presence, in spite
of her efforts to restrain their fury. In
1685, the queen of Attinga fell in love
with a young Englishman, who was sent
to her with the customary annual re-
sents, and offered him her hand. his
he declined, but remained with her
some months, and departed loaded with
gifts.

lived in the service of an English V


_~
Madras.
(0)Anjutmga.--Afewmilesdistantfrom
this place, and due W. of it on the sea-
coast, is An/‘utanga or Aiij engo, where the
E. I. Company had a factory of some im-
portance established so early as 1684, and
withdrawn in 1813. Allllltfillgfl. is situate
in lat. 8° 40’, long. 76 49', and is re-
markable as the birthplace of Sterne's
Eliza, “alady,” says Forbes, in his
Oriental Memoirs, “with whom I had
the pleasure of bein(g acquainted at Bom-
bay, whose refine taste and elegant
accomplishments require no encomiums
from my pen.” The same author adds,
“ Anjengo likewise gave birth to Robert
Orme, a writer, who has been frequently
denominated the British Thucydides,
and the father of Oriental history. This
amiable man (born in 1728, and who died
in England in 1801 was the second son
of Dr. Alexander rme, who came to
India as an adventurer in 1706.
The coast near Anjutenga is hilly and
romantic, and there is usually a violent
surf, impassable by an English boat.
During the beginning of the S.W. mon-
soon, the sea presents an awful spectacle ;
the billows rising to a great height, and
breaking on the shore with a report
equal to that of the loudest cannon.
Each ninth wave is said to be larger than
the rest, and apparently threatens to
submerge the whole settlement. During
the rainy season it is curious to watch
the shoals of fresh-water fish that are
swept down b the floods across the bar
into the sea, W ere numbers of the larger
marine fish are assembled to devour them
wholesale. Anjengo is famous for the
pepper-vine and cassia. The pepper-
vine, being incapable of supporting itself,
is entwined round poles, or planted near
mango-trees, or others with straight
high stems, as the jac. The lower
branches of these are stripped off, and
the vine covers it with graceful festoons
and rich bunches of fruit. The vines
begin to bear in the fourth year, or occa-
sionally not till the sixth. The leaf is
large and of a bright green; the blos-
soms are small, and of a greenish white.
They appear in June soon after the rains
commence ; and are succeeded by bunches
of green berries, which turn brown and
hard as they ripen. The pepper is ga-
BOUTE 3 8 .—-T RIVA NDE RAM T0 PONANI-‘A NJUTENGA.

197
thered in February, when its appearance
is the same as we sec in Europe. The
maria resembles the bay-tree, of which
it is a species. It is called cassia lignea,
to distinguish it from the laurus-cinna-
momum, or true cinnamon, to which it
is very inferior. The leaves of the cassia
are smaller and more pointed than those
of the laurel, while those of the cinna-
mon are still more delicate. The blos-
soms of both, like the flowers of the
arbutus, hang in white fra rant bunches.
The fruit resembles a sma lacorn. The
young leaves and tender shoots are bright
red, changing to green as they approach
maturity. They taste like cinnamon,
but the inner bark is the only valuable
part of the tree. This is carefully peeled,
cut in pieces, dried in the sun, and
then exported. The tree decays on losing
its bark, and is out down, and the roots
throw up fresh shoots. It is also raised
from seeds.
The town of Anjutenga is situate on
a narrow strip of land, running from
N.W. to S.E., in which latter direction
is the sea, and to the N.E. an extensive
backwater. It consists of two parallel
rows of houses, with a fort at the S.E.
extremity, built in 1695 ; and the Por-
tuguese Church and English burial-
ground at the N.\V. Forbes, the author
of the Oriental Memoirs, was appointed
a Member of the Council of Anyengo in
1772. He describes himself as livin
in the verandah of a cottage, thatche
with palmyra leaves, and so small that
a sofa which he brought from Bombay
could not enter the door. The inhabi-
tants are still, as he states, for the most
part Christians of the Romish Church,
poor and wretchedly ignorant. The
chief point of difference, indeed, between
them and their Hindii neighbours is
that their women cover the upper part
of their bodies. The country round
Anjutenga exhibits a charming variety
of river, lake, rock, and forest. The
birds are remarkable for the beaut of
their plumage, particularly some kinds
of parroquets, and the Attinga bird, or
pie bird of Paradise (picus orienmlia),
with a purple crest, snow white feathers,
and long tail. Reptiles are ver nume-
rous; and among snakes the mphis-


198
Sect. II.
RouTE 38.—TRIVANDERAM To PoNANI-KLAPALLI.
baena, or double-headed snake, is re-
markable, as also the crescent snake,
two or three inches long, with a head
shaped like a crescent. The curious
fish called the hippocampus is very
Connlon.
The Parra-ār river, before reaching
Mailakād, must be crossed in boats.
(d) Kayan Kulam (Quilon), a town
with about 20,000 inhabitants, is situate
on the sea coast, in a bight, where there
is secure anchorage for ships about three
miles from the fort. It was from 1809
to 1830 the head quarters of a subsidiary
force of five regiments and a company of
artillery, but the garrison has for the last
26 years been limited to a single regi-
ment. The cantonment is to the E. of
the town, and stands on ground rising
by a gentle ascent from the sea. It in-
cludes an area of nearly five miles in
circumference. There are barracks and
other buildings requisite for the large
force above mentioned, and also an
Episcopal Church. . In spite of , the
withdrawal of the large force which
occupied it for so many years, Kayan
Kulam still possesses extensive bázárs
and several £ shops, well supplied
with articles from Bombay. ayan
Kulam is a place of great antiquity, and
is said to have been originally founded
in 825 A.D. The natives of this part of
Malabar, both Hindás and Christians,
date their era from the epoch of its
foundation. The first Archbishop of Goa,
Alexius Menezes, held here his first con-
ference with the St. Thomas Christians,
when he induced a large portion of them
to renounce Nestorianism and join the
Roman Catholic Church, to which the
still continue united. The Britis
Residency is a fine building. It lies
N. of the cantonment, and commands
a beautiful view of the backwater and
adjacent country, Near it is an ancient
pagoda dedicated to Krishna. Prior to
1829 the Court of Appeal and Office of
the Diwān, or Minister, were at Kayan
Kulam, but were removed to Trivan-
deram when the present Rájá mounted
the throne. There is excellent water
communication the whole way to Tri-
vanderam, by means of canals du
-parallel to #. low sandy coast, an
connecting the different backwaters.
The military road is comparatively dis-
used. Water communication is still
more in vogue to Alapalli and Cochin,
though the road is practicable for cattle
and horses, but very difficult for wheel
carriages. A phatemar (pattymar) will
reach Kananür by sea in five or six days
from Kayan Kulam, so that a sea pas-
sage is the most convenient.
Shawerré or Shivardi is a smallvillage,
and theriver to be crossed before reaching
it has always a great depth of water, so
near the sea. . In the next stage, the
Sirupalliriverisfordable at ebb-tide, but
at ' times must be crossed in boats.
Karnógãpalli is a middling village,
Kayan Kulam a # one. The road
is tolerable to Alapalli, whence it passes
through deep sand. Parrakdd was
once a place of considerable trade,
and is still populous. There is a
Roman Syrian Church; and the Kötd-
rams, or palaces, of the Rājās of Travan-
core and Chambagacheri, and a large
pagoda, are worth notice.
": Alapalli (Aleppy), spelled Aula-
polay in the trigonometrical survey, lies
in lat. 9°30', long. 76°24', and is the chief
: of the principality of Tiruvan-
odu (Travancore). The English had
formerly a factory here. The trade in
betel, coir, pepper, and cardamoms is
very considerable. Down to this port,
too, through the backwaters from Cochin,
vast quantities of timber, the produce
of the Rājā's forests, are floated. There
is also an establishment for building
small craft, belonging to the Rājā.
There is no shelter for large ships; but
owing to the sea having encroached on
the land in this locality, a bank of soft
mud subtends the shore, so that a large
vessel may anchor four miles out, in
about five fathoms water, in some de-
gree protected by this bank, and with
less risk than on any other part of the
coast. The backwater and rivers at
Alapalli abound with large and fierce
alligators, which often make prey of
human beings.
The road from Alapalli to Cochin,
through the villages of Kunjetti and
'" lies through very deep
SanC1,


Madras.
199
RouTE 38.—TRIVANDERAM To PoNKNI-KACHIII.
(f) Kachhi, Kuchi, or Kuchibandar
(Cochin), is a town with about 20,000
inhabitants, belonging to the English,
though it gives name to a small native
principality extending over the adjacent
territory, and was formerly the capital of
the Rājā. So early as 1503, Albuquerque
erected a fortress here, the first possessed
by the Portuguese in India. In 1663,
after the expulsion of the Portuguese,
the Rājā ceded the town to the Dutch,
who made it the capital of their posses-
sions in India, and raised its trade to a
very flourishing state. They converted
the cathedral into a warehouse; and, the
bigoted tyranny of the Roman Catholics
being at an end, Hindú, Muhammadan,
and Arab traders frequented the port in
great numbers. The town is situate at
the N. extremity of a spit of land about
twelve miles long, but whose greatest
breadth little exceeds a mile, while it
often narrows to a quarter of that width.
It is almost insulated by inlets of the
sea and estuaries of streams flowing from
the W. Ghâts. Indeed, the backwater
is of such extent as to be of paramount
importance to the place, and to supply
in a great degree the place of roads.
This backwater extends, S. nearly to
Kayan Kulam, and N. about 40 miles
to Chaitwä. In its course it throws out
many ramifications in an E. direction,
and to the W. it communicates with the
sea by three estuaries, at Chaitwa Kadan-
£ (Cranganore), and Kuchí (Cochin).
t is very shallow in many places, more
particularly in the N. part of the Chaitwa
branch, but between the inlets at Kadan-
gulúr and Kuchi, and Kuchí and Ala-
palli, it is at all times navigable, both
for passage and cargo boats. It shoals,
however, from Alapalli to the bar of
Ivica near Kayan Kulam. During the
rains every part is navigable, flat-bot-
tomed boats being employed; but for
the conveyance of small merchandize
canoes drawing but little water are pre-
ferred. The backwater is affected by
the tides, which rise about two ft., and
flow at the rate of 2% miles an hour.
It is tortuous in its course and some-
what sluggish, but affords to the mer-
chant a safe and convenient means of
transport for his goods, as also to the
cultivator of carrying his produce, with-
out much trouble or expense, to the best
market. It is also a very important
advantage that this communication is
open at all seasons of the year. The
cargo-boats are covered with bambui or
reed mats, by which the goods are pro-
tected both from the sun and rain.
Cochin is the only port S. of Bombay
in which large ships can be built. In
1820–21 three frigates were built here
for the Royal Navy. Smaller vessels
for the Indian Navy have likewise been
built, and many merchant ships of from
500 to 1000 tons burthen. For the
construction of ships there is excellent
teak in abundance. There is, however,
a bar at the mouth of the harbor which
is a serious obstruction. Horsburgh
says it is practicable for # drawing
14 or 15 ft. of water. Within, under
the old walls of the fort, the depth is
four or five fathoms.
Cochin is a well-built town, about a
mile long and half a mile broad. In
1796 it was taken by the British from
the Dutch, and in 1806, or, according
to another account, in 1814, the forti-
fications were, by command of Govern-
ment, blown up with gunpowder. The
explosion threw down or shattered all
the best houses, and most of the Dutch
families who could afford it left the
place. Thus, by a barbarous and im-
politic measure the place was halfruined.
A few Dutch families still remain, and
there is an old Dutch Church on the
N.W. side of the town, in which the
Protestant missionary officiates.
Cochin is most remarkable as the re-
sidence of the black and the white Jews,
who inhabit the suburbs of Kalvati and
Mottancheri, which extend about half a
mile along the backwater to the S.E.
of the town. In Mottancheri there is a
large but not very handsome Kótáram, or
palace, of the Rājā, and close to it is the
£ of the white Jews, or Jews of
erusalem, who are said to have arrived
in India at a much more recent date than
the black Jews, whose residence dates
from time immemorial. The white Jews
inhabit the upper part of Jews'-town,
the black Jews the lower part. There
are also a great number of black Jews


200
Sect. II. lfadras.
ROUTE 38.-raivsmmasm ro PONANI.
in the interior, their principal towns
being Iritiir, Parur, Chenotta, and Maleb.
There is every reason for believing that
the black Jews were established at Ka-
danguliir (Cranganore) in the third or
fourth cent , 5.1). They possess a
cop er grant om the brahman Prince
of alabar, conferring the said place
upon them, and dated 388 A.D., or, ac-
cording to Hamilton, 490. Their syna-
gogue is a plain edifice, with a small
bclfrey, in which is a rude clock, 200
years old. The floor is neatly paved
with china, and there is a gilt recess at
one end, veiled with a rich curtain.
Behind this are foldin doors, and within
these are five co ies o the Pentateuch in
silver cases, wit covers of rich brocade.
On one is a crown of gold presented by
Colonel Macaulay, a former Resident.
The copies are written in Hebrew on
vellum, and in such a beautiful char-
acter as to match engraving. In these
synagogues the women sit apart from
t e men in a gallery hidden with railings
and network. Cochin is famous for cu-
taneous diseases, and especially for ele-
hantiasis, which is sometimes called the
ochin leg. These diseases are said to
be owing to the badness of the water, as
well as to the dissolute habits and want
of cleanliness of the peo le. From the
proximit of Cochin to t e sea, its low
site, an the soil being loose sand, the
ound on which the town stands is
amp, and water is found just below the
surface. This water is brackish and un-
Wholesome, but the lower orders make
use of it, and suffer in consequence.
Indeed, the unwholesomeness of the
water is so much a recognised fact, that
Government causes a supply of drinking
water to be brought in boats from a
river, near the village of Alwai, 15 miles
distant. This stream, rising in the hill
count to the N.E., empties itself into
the backwatera few miles above Cochin.
As it passes the village Alwai, the water
is extremely pure, and great numbers of
the inhabitants of Cochin resort thither
to bathe.
Leaving Cochin, the traveller must
cross the at in boats three furlongs to
V~""~~u. The road is very sandy, and

only brackish water is obtainable in this
march.
The stations as far as Ponani (Pani-
ani) are unimportant villages or small
towns. The road is throughout sandy.
(g) Pondm‘ or Pam'a'm', called by the
natives (according to Hamiltonz Pzmang
Wdkal, in lat. l0 48’, long. 75 58', is a
seaport town with about 8,000 inhabi-
tants. Itis situate on the S. side of the river
of the same name, which rises in Koim-
batiir, and after a course of 128 miles
here disembo es into the sea. It is
navi able o for canoes as far as
Palg at, 63 miles from the sea; but its
general shallowness, except during the
monsoon, and a bar at its mouth, pre-
vent its being available for other vessels.
Paniani was before the time of Tipfi a
much more flourishing place, -but his
oppression reduced it considerably. It
is the head-quarters of the ll{a'_m'llaa
(see Preliminary Information of the
Maisvir Division), and the place where
their Tangal, or high priest, resides.
This functionary claims descent from
’Ali and Fa_t_imah, the son-in-law and
dau hter of Muhammad. His office, in
con ormity with the custom of Mala-
bar, is hereditary in the female line.
The town is chiefly inhabited by Mus-
lims, who have 40 mosques. Itis built
in a straggling manner on a sand plain,
and there are about 500 stone ouses,
two stories high; the rest are huts. A
lar e part of the population is employed
in shing. Others are seamen, and be-
sides coasting craft, there are vessels that
sail to Bombay, Surat, and Madras, and
even as far as Arabia and Calcutta,
carrying on a trade principally in pep-
per, betel, rice, cocoa-nuts, iron, and
timber. The imports are grain, sugar,
and spices, and also salt, the home
sup ly made by evaporation not bein
s cient. Paniani is likelyto derive
additional importance from being very
near the terminus of the Madras Rail-
way, at Bépur. After leaving Paniani,
there is a backwater which it takes a
corps with baggage 12 hours to cross.
There is no road between Taniir and
Chaliam, and thence for 7% miles it passes
through very deep sand. (See Route 48.)


Maisar Division. 1..
201
SECTION III.
MAISU'R (MYSORE) DIVISION.
Preliminary Information.
1. BOUNDARIES AND GENERAL Asrncr or run DI‘VISION—-SUB-DIVISIONS AND
Cums TowNs.—2. HISTORICAL SKE'1‘CH—CAS'l‘ES——EMPLOYMENTS or "ma
Narrvns.
1. BOUNDARIES AND GENERAL ASPECT OF THE DIVISION-—SUB-DIVISIONS AND
CHIEF TOWNS.
The Maisfir Division is bounded on the N.W. by the Collectorate of Dharwar,
in the Bomba Presidency, and the Portuguese territory of Goa; on the N.E. and
E. by the Ce ed Districts; and on the S. by S. Arcot, Salem, Koimbatur, and
Travancore. It lies between 11° and 15° N. lat., and 74° and 78° 40' E. long. ;
and contains about 44,666 square miles, of which 30,886 belong to Maisiir
proper, 6,060 to Malabar, and 7,720 to Kanara. The sha e of this division is
very irregular, the west side being comparatively straight, ut the limits on the
other three sides bein tracedb a zig-zag waving line which does not admit of
verbal description. e NV. G ats cut oif the long coast-tract of Malabar and
Kanara from the table-land of Maisfir, which, with a general elevation of 2,000 ft.
above the sea, is here and there studded with huge isolated rocks, such as N audi-
drug, 4,856 ft., and Suwarndrug, 4,004 ft. above the marine level. These hills
are chiefly composed of masses of granite, gneiss, and hornblende, and bein
generally inaccessible on one or more sides, were fortified by native princes an
cliieftains, and held by them as secure retreats, until British valor dissolved the
charm of their impregnability. Nandidrng stands in the very apex of the pro-
vince, and several rivers, the Palar and Pennar, etc., rise in its vicinity. At its
S.W. angle, Maisfir is based as it were on the junction of the E. and W. Ghats.
In 1849-50, the population was estimated at 3,300,000, that of Malabar at
1,514,909, and that of Kanara at 1,056,333. British troops are stationed at
Ben alfir, Harihar, and French Rocks, 20 miles N. of Seringapatani. There is
besi es a body of 2,700 irregular horse, and 2,400 irregular infantry, called the
Maisfir Locals. Wild beasts were once very numerous, and still abound in the
great jun les near the Western Ghats. _ In nine months of 1836, 337 human
eings an nearly 7,000 head of cattle dperished by them, and in the same space of
time rewards were granted for the estruction of 29 elephants and 941 ti ers,
leopards, and bears. Useful minerals are found in some parts of Maisfir. pe-
cirnens of the following earths, etc., were forwarded to the Great Exhibition from
Bengaliir :~Kaolin or porcelain earth, puce-colored ditto, greenish yellow ditto;
very pure fibrous gypsum; greenish- ellow earth and friable lithomarge ; pink and
bright-red granite and syemte; porp composed of basalt and quartz; silicious
eurite, a variety of greenstone; hornb ende schist; serpentine and serpentine
porphyry; common garnet; vesicular iron ore; pure stone-colored ochre, white
ochre or porcelain earth, and lavender-colored ochre. The province produces,
beside the common grains, cinnamon, pepper, cardamoms, coffee, raw silk, cotton,


~_ii
202 Sect. III. illad/ras.
sugar, sugar-candy, teak, and sandalwood. The sago palm is common in the
jlpqglcs, and especiall in those of Maujerabiid, bordering on Kurg and Nagar or
c nfir. It is one o the most graceful of the palm tribe, grows to a considerable
height, and must attain a diameter of two ft. before it is fit for use. It thrives best
along the edges of the ghfits and in the thickest parts of the forest, where itis
sheltered from the sun and wind, and where the soil is consequently moist and
enriched with deca cd vegetable matter. A full-grown palm will yield about 90 lbs.
weight of sago, w ich is obtained, after felling the tree, as follows :—-The woody
parts are removed with a small country hatchet about two inches broad, and the
soft spongy inner substance chopped u , then pounded in a common rice mortar,
and formed into balls, which are hel over an earthen pot, covered with a thin
cloth, while water is poured slowl upon them. The farina passes through the
cloth, and is deposited in the form 0 a tine paste at the bottom of the vessel. The
water is then ourcd ofi', and the paste dried, when it becomes friable and
crumbles into nc flour. The sago-tree is produced from seed, and arrives at
maturity in from 16 to 20 ears.
At Deonhalli, a foitific town about 30 nriles N. of Bengalfrr, tobacco and
sugar-cane are much cultivated; and Tr'pi'r, who was born there, established some
Chinese in the vicinity to improve the cultivation of the cane.
The betel-nut (Areca Catechu) produced in the N ar districts is of a superior
kind, and is much sought after in the markets of the arnértak. The sandalwood
is in great request among the Parsis of Bombay, being used as a perfume in their
religious service.
Carpets arc manufactured at Maisfiir and Bengaliir, which are good imitations
of the English and Persian. The Kambals (Cumblies), woollen blankets of Davan-
gadi, are excellent, and sometimes fetch as much as 20 rupees each. Much trouble
as been taken by Government in improvin the native breed of sheep by crossing
it with the pure merino, and the wool tra e will probably become of importance
in this province. The silk cloths of Bengalfrr are praised for their substantial
texture, as also for their bright colors.
Rice is exported from Maisur to Kanara, where the produce of that grain is
not deficient, but is exported to Arabia.
Since the assumption of this province by the British, 1,600 miles of cart road
have been made and bridged at a cost of £185,000. The revenue has steadily
increased from 43,97,035 rupees in 1831-32, to 80,08,339 rupees in 1848-49, and
to 82,00,000 rupees in 1863-54.
Sub-dw'vis1'ons.-—Maisi'ir proper is sub-divided into four Collectorates.
galllfir; 2. Astagram; 3. Chitradurg; 4. Nagar.
o ows :-
SLYIS-DIVISIONS AND CHIEF TOWNS.
1. Ben-
These again are sub-divided as
1. Bsnosnfin.
Distance from Distance
Tainks or Districts. Chief Towns. Be,,g“m,,_ mm, n,m,.,“_
H. ll. IF.
1. Ben aliir Ben alfrr ,, 208 1
2. Hos ota Hos ota 18 193 1
3. Mauliir Maulfir 30 179
4. Kolar Kolar . 43 167 2
5. Baitmanglam Baitmanglam 66 144 2
6. Mulwfagal Mulwagal 61 148 3
7. Strinivaspur Strinivaspur 60 169
8. Ambajidrug Ambajidrug 45 180 5
9. Sillagutta Sillagutta 51 196
10. Gumnaikenpalliam Gumnaikenpélliam 66 214
11. Gudibanda Gudibanda 51 226
12. Chikkabalapur Chikkabalapiir 35 200
13. Davanhalli Davanhalli ' 24 188


Maisür Div. SUB-IDIVISIONS AND CHIEF Towns. 203
Tāluks or Districts. Chief Towns. "...'. "#"
M. M. F.
14. Doddabalapur Doddabalapur 25 206
15. Goribednur Goribednir 50 236
16. Nellavanglam Nellavanglam 17 227
17. Maugri Maugri 25 235
18. Huliardrug Huliárdrug 43 253
19. Chennapatnam Chennapatnam 35 245
20. Closepét Closepét 27 238
21. Kankanhalli Kankanhalli 30 240
22. Aunaikal Aunaikal 23 208
2. ASTAGRAM.
Tāluks or Districts. Chief Towns. tr.:#r. Dis'm
1. Maisür Maisür ** 293 1
2. Maisür Astagram Maisür Astagram 9 284
3. Pattan Astagram Pattan Astagram 11 283
4. Attikuppa Attikuppa 33 303
5. Nāgamangalam Nágamangalam 34 278
6. Kikairi Kíkairi 43 290
7. Narsipur Narsipur 36 302
8. Chenráipatnam Chenráipatnam 53 293
9. Banawár Banawar 89 314
10. Hassan Hassan 76 313
11. Arkalgód Arkalgód 48 305
12. Harnhalli Harnhalli 73 314
13. Mahārājdrug £ 87 326
14. Mangúrábād Mangúrábá 102 343
15. Bailür Bailtir 107 323
16. Malwalli Malwalli 30 268
17. Nanjengód Nanjengód 16 308
18. Mandiam Mandiam 30 265
19. Yadathoré Yadathoré 21 311
20. Yagadavenkotta Yagadavenkotta 23 314
21. Châmrajnagar Châmrajnagar 38 330
22. Thalká Thalká 33 278
23. Periapatnam Periapatnam 38 323
24. Gundalpét Gundalpét 35 328
25. Maddûr Maddûr 42 254
. CHITRADURG.
Táluks or Districts Chief Towns. mom'ss. Pl:om
1. Chitradurg Chitradurg 55 328
2. Hiriar Hírivir 32 306
3. Hosdrug Hosdrug 10 323
4. Davengadi Davengadi 30 367
5. Kankuppa Kankuppa 23 356
6. Mulkalmuru Mulkalmuru 60 361
7. Doddéri Doddéri 50 335
8. Madgadi Madgadi 102 271
9. Kortagadi Kortagadi 94 261
10. Tumkar Tumkür 82 252 7
11. Kadub Kadub 92 266
12. Turuvukerré Turuvukerré 90 284
13. Chikknaikenhalli Chikknaikenhalli 74 288


204
suB-DIVISIONS AND CHIEF Towns. Sect. III. Madras.
Taluks or Districts. Chief Towns. "#" "'as.
M. M. F.
14. Honwalli Honwalli 17 296
15. Budihál Budihál 52 304
16. Sirah Sirah 54 281
17. Paugad Paugad 67 301
18. Kungal Kungal 104 248
4. NAGAR.
Tāluks or Districts. Chief Towns. ": from £.
1. Nagar Nagar 9% 423
2. Ságar Ságar 30 416
3. Kaulidrug Kaulidrug 12 403
4. Koppa Koppa 20 388
5. Lakwalli Lakwalli 40 358
6. Wastára Wastára 108 356
7. Surab Surab 42 436
8. Shikárpur Shikárpur 60 418
9. Shimogha Shimogha 36 378
10. Honhalli Honhalli 50 293
11. Harihar Harihar 90 380 3
12. Terrikerré Terrikerré 55 353
13. Chikkmaglir Chikkmaglar 102 348
14. Chennagadi Chennagadi 65 358
15. Kaddur Kaddûr 73 338
Malabar is sub-divided as follows, from N. to S.:—
Tāluks or Districts. Chief Towns.
1. Kawai Talliparamba
2. Cherakal Pallikunu
3. Kotiam Kathrür
4. Wainád Manantāwadi
5. Kartanåd Baddagadi
6. Kariambranád Koilandi £)
7. Kolikod (Calicut) Kolikod (Calicut)
8. Shernád Tiruvangadi
9. Ernád Mangiari
10. Waluvanád Angadipuram
11. Betatnád Betatpudiangadi
12. Nedinganād Cherpalcheri
13. Kutnád Ponáni
14. Chaughât Kutangal
15. Pálghat Pálghat
16. Temalpuram Allatür
17. Kuchi Anjutenga
(Cochin Anjengo) Kuchi (Cochin)
N. Kanara is sub-divided as follows, in the same direction :-
1. Ankola Ankola
2. Honawar Honăwar
3. Kundapur Kundapur
4. Sünda Sirkí
5. Süpa Yellapur
6. Bilgi Siddhapur
Of these, the three first are below, the other three above the Ghâts.


5 Maisar Div. HISTORICAL sxnrcn. 205
-Z-~
S. Kanara is thus sub-divided .--
1. Barkfir Brahmawar
2. Udipi Udipi
3. Mangalfir Mangalfir
4. Bantwal Bantwal
5. Bekal Bekal
2. HISTORICAL SKE'l‘OH—OAS'1'ES-—EMPLOYMENTS OF THE NATIVES.
From the fact of the mountains and valleys in the vicinity of Anagundi bearing
the same names as those given in the Ramayana to the places in the realm of
Sugriva, the monkey king, who aided Rama in his expedition to Ceylon, Wilks
has conjectured that Maisfir was the region intended in the oem. But the same
names are given to many other places in other parts of India, so that no certain
argument can be founded on that basis. The earliest government in this part of
India, of which we have any record, is that of the Chalukian Rajés, who seem to
have been Rajput princes, otherwise called Solankhis. Their capital was Kallian,
or Kalyan, on the Malabar coast (see Tod's W. India, p. 1670). There can be no
doubt, too, that the Yadavas and other Rajput tribes from Kathiawad penetrated
into Maisur, and there founded dynasties. Thus a Yadava race of kings is often
spoken of in the Mackenzie MSS. (Wilks 1, p. 14, Note), as existing at Vijayanagar,
long before the new city was founded in 1336 A.D. The Kadamba Rajés who ruled
at Banawasi, the ruins of which city may still be seen in the district of Siinda, in
the Balaghat of N. Kanara, were, perhaps, of this race. Their power was over-
thrown in the second century of the Christian era.
The history of Maisiir, however, up to the Muhammadan invasion in 1326
remains a blank. We learn that in that year the army of Muhammad III.,
Emperor of Delhi, took and destroyed Dwara Samudram, the capital of the
Belal kings of Maisfir, which had been built in 1133, or rather rebuilt then on the
ruins of a more ancient city. The ruins of Dwara Samudram have been found
and identified by inscriptions, at the village of Hallabe, 105 miles N.W. of
Seringapatam. The Belal kings then removed their seat of government to Tonfir,
otherwise called Moti Tdlrib, “Lake of Pearls,” twelve miles N. of Seringapatam.
In 1336, Biika and Aka Harihar, fugitive officers of the dethroned king of Araukal,
founded the city of Vijayanagar, and their descendants soon extended their sway
over Maisfir.
After the capture of Vijayana ar in 1565, A.D., by the Muhammadan kings of
the Dakhan, the petty chief of lt aisfir be an to raise his head. His ancestors are
said to have been originally Yfidavas, an to have fixed their seat first at Hadana
and Kfirugalli, near the resent town of Maisfir. One of them, named Kam
Raj, removed in 1524 to aisfir, then called Puragadi, and changed its name to
that it now bears. This name is properly Mahesh A'sur, “the buffalo-headed
Titan," a monster slain by the goddess Kali, who is especiall worshipped under
the title of Chamfindi, “discomforting enemies,” on the hi of Maisfir. Her
image used to be decorated by the Maisfireans with the noses and ears of their
captives. Hira Kam Raj succeeded to the throne in 1571, and was the first of
his line who refused tribute to Vijayanagar, and erected fortifications. Raj
Wade ar, who became Raja about 1576, acquired Seringapatam in 1610, and con-
sidera ly enlar ed his territories. In 1638, Kanti Raf, a chivalrous prince, be-
came Raja. efore his elevation, he had distinguished himself by slaying in
single combat, with the broad sword, a renowned ladiator, at the court of the
Ra a of Triehinapalli. He was the first Rajé. of aisfir who established a mint,
an from him the well-known coins, Kanti Rai Iuina, called by the English
pagodas, have their name. He was the hero of his line, and made many conquests,
especially from the Raja of Madura. Diid Deo Raj, who succeeded him in 1659, still


206 HISTORICAL SKETCH. Sect. III. Madras.

further eiilar the principality, which now began to assume the dimensions of a.
kin om. e set up the colossal figure of Shiva’s bull on the hill of Maisfir. It
is t c largest and most skilfully executed figure of its kind in S. India.
In July, 1687, Chik Deo R~.'ij, who mounted the throne in 1672, purchased
Bcngalfir of Kasim IQifm, the general of Aurangzib. _IIe_ next pushed_his con-
quests oyer great part of the Bfirah Maliall, as the N. division of Salem is called,
and carried is arms as far S. as Pcrmctti on the Kfiveri. In 1690, he extended
his dominions to the verge_ of _thc \V. hills _0f Bednfir. He then determined to
possess himself of the territories of the N ark of Madura, and began with laying
siege to Trichinapalli._ \V_liile his army was thus engaged, _two Marfitha enerals,
Jagdeo Ghfitki and N1ml)flJl Ghatki, suddenly appeared with a considera le force
be ore §eringapatam. C_hik_ Deo, who appears to have been at the capital, sent to
rec_al l11S troops from Trichinapalli, but his general despatched his son, Dudifi, to
relieve Scringapatam. Dudia completely defeated the Marathas, killed the two
generals and most of their ofiicers, and captured all the baggage, guns, and military '
stores. He owed his success to the stratagem said to have been employed by a far
greater general. He sent a small detachment at night to worry the enemy, with
a number of oxen havin torches attached to their horns, in a direction opposite to
that in which he inten ed to make the real attack. The Marathas having dis-
posed their troops to receive what they supposed, from the number of lights, was
an advancing army, Dudta broke inupon their rear, and routed them with dreadful
slaughter. After this victory, Chik Deo despatched an embassy to Aurangzib,
which reached Ahmadna ar, where the Emperor then was, in 1699, and returned
in 1700, bringing to Chi Deo various insignia of honor and patents of nobility.
Among the things conceded, was the right of sitting on an ivory throne, and that
accordingly made use of by Chik Deo was, in 1799, found in a lumber room of
Ti'pi'i's palace, and was subsequently employed to install the new Raja of Maisiir.
Chik Deo, whose revenues amounted to £496,339, died on the 12th of December,
1704, and was succeeded by his son, who, in consequence of being born deaf and
dumb, was called Mfik Arsu, “ The Dumb Sovereign.” He died in 1714, and his
son, Dud Kishen Raj, was compelled, in 1724, to ay a million sterling, to buy
ofi' an attack made on him by the Nuwabs of Sera, arniil, Kadapa, and Savanfir,
and Siddhaji Ghorporé, the Maratha chief of Gutti. Two years after, the
Marathas exacted a further contribution at the gates of Seringapatain. In 1728,
however, these drains were in art made good by the conquest of Savendrug; the
chief of which place, Kem é oud, was taken prisoner at Maagri, in which weak
fortress he suffered himscl to be surrounded. Thus the accumulated plunder of
two centuries, fell into the hands of the Maisfir Rea. Dfid Kishen, a weak, cruel,
and sensual rince, was succeeded, in 1736, by am Ray, who was deposed and
put to death y his cousin and general, Deo Raj, and Chi Kishen Raj, a distant
relation, was exalted to the throne.
In 1737 the Nfiwab of Arcot, Dost ‘Ali, sent an army against Seringapatam,
which was utterly routed by Deo Ra', who was still general of the Maisiir army.
After this victory, Deo Ray, feeling 's strength declinin with advancing years,
surrendered the conduct of affairs to his younger brother anjiréj, whose dau hter
was given in marriage to the pageant Raja. In 1749, Nanjiraj undertoo the
siege of Deonhalli. In this siege Haidar ‘Ali made his first appearance in arms,
as avolunteer horseman, in the corps of his brother Shahbaz $al,iib, then com-
mandin 200 horse and 1,000 foot in the army of Nanj'ira'. Haidar gained the
notice 0 the general by being foremost in eve attack, an was put over 50 horse
and 200 infantry, with a command at Deo alli. He was soon after drafted
with his men into a body of 15,000 Maisiireans, attached to the arm of
Na_1,ir J ang, Suhahdar of the Dakhan. When that prince was slain in M. e la
'l‘ouche’s attack upon his army, near Jinji, in 1750, Haidar gallantly charged the
"H nch column. In the subsequent confusion, however, he plundered Négir


llaiszir Div. CAS'l‘ES——EMPLOYME1\’TS or run NATIVES. 207
-~
J ang’s treasury of gold, sufficient to load two camels, which, with 300 horses and
500 muskets picked up on the field, he sent to his head-quarters at Deonhalli.
After that eventful day, the Maisiir contingent returned to their own country.
\Ve next hear of Haidar as holdin a command in the army of N anjiraj, which
marched to the aid of Mubamma 'Al1', the claimant for the Nfuvabship of the
Karnatak, whom the English supported. Nanjiraij was to receive Triehiuiipalli
as the price of his support, but finding that it wou d not be delivered to him, he
made overtures to M. Dupleix and 'oined the French. In the operations that
followed Haidar bore a distinguishe part. He was one of that body of cavalry
which destroyed a large detachment of Major Lawrence’s army, coming to
Trichinfipalli with a convoy from Tanjur. Of 188 Europeans, 50 were killed,
100 wounded, and the rest made prisoners. Haidar seized the guns and kept
three of them for his own use : the other he yielded to Hari Singh, a Rajput 1n
the service of Maisur. In 1755, N anjiraj made him Governor of Dindigal, and
from that time he gradually rose in power till he became ruler of Maisfir. His
subsequent history, and that of Tipfi, are too well known to need mention here.
On the 3rd of May, 1799, Seringapatam was stormed and Tipii slain. The
rightful heir to the throne of Maisur was then restored; and, bein a child, his
affairs were administered b Parneah, a brahman of great talents. n his coming
of age the Raja was allowe to govern the country, and a treasury with £2,812,500
in it, was handed over to him. This he soon dissipated, and so misman ed affairs
as to cause a rebellion. Thereupon, in 1832, the English took upon t emselves
the entire control of the country. The revenue, when it came under British
management, in 1831-32, was £440,000, but has since doubled.
Malabar was conquered by Haidar ’Ali in 1761, and the settlement made by his
deputy in 1782 is said to be the foundation of that made by the British Commis-
sioners in 1792, when the English took ossession of the province. Of the former
history of the country little is known. ts ancient name was Kerala, and it is said
to have been acquired by Parshuram, the first of the three Ramas, and sixth
Avatarah of Vishnu, by a cast of his axe, which caused the waters to retire. This,
perhaps, refers to the Kshatriya invasion at a very remote date. So early, at
least, as the 9th century, the Arabs began to settle on this coast, and migrations
of J cws and Syrian Christians thither probably preceded them.
Kanara is a name given by the English to the provinces called by the natives
Tulava and Haiga, with a small part of Malabar. The word is robabl a cor-
ruption of Karnata, as the table-land above the Ghats was called: Its istory,
before it came into possession of the British, in 1799, is but little known. The
most remarkable fact connected with the province, and also with Malabar, is that
“ the lands of Kanara (Munro's Report, 9th November, 1800) have for ages been
private property, and the landed property of these countries is both more ancient
and more perfect than that of En land.” To quote the same authority, “ private
property in land has never existe in India, except on the Malabar coast.” The
result is that Kanara and Malabar are more flourishing than any other parts of
India, and the revenue is there aid with greater alacrity than in any other
district; a singular proof of the olly of regarding land as the property of the
state, and ‘raising the taxes accordin ly with the increase of produce.
Th; Nairs, Namburi brfihmuns, iadis, and Shanars have been already men-
tione .
The Mdpillas are Sunni Muhammadans of the Sha.fi’i sect, the same to which the
Arabs belong. They are descended from Arab settlers and women of the country.
An old legend relates how an Arab youth became the husband of a Nair woman by
'ving her a cloth, when her own clothes had been taken from her while she was
athing. The word Mapilla comes no doubt from ma’, “mother,” and pilla,
a son ;” though some derive it from Makka, “ a daughter,” and pilla, “ a
son ;” and others, from Jl/lo/rkai, “ Mocha,“ and pilla, “ a son.” They are a


208 CASTES-EMPLOYMENTS OF THE NATIVES. Sect. III.
light-colored race, with ' features and sinewy frames. Their hands and feet
are delicate, and their beards bushy, a sure sign of their mixed origin from Hindú
women, as the Arabs are notoriously scant bearded. They shave the hair, trim
the mustachios according to the Sunnat, and wear a small silk or cloth cap on
their heads. The chest and shoulders are left bare, and a white or dyed piece of
linen is tied round their loins. The garment of the men does not reach below
their calves, but that of the women falls to the ankles. Unlike the Hindú women
of Malabar, their females cover the upper part of their figures, with a shift buttoned
round the neck with large sleeves, the opening being infront. A veil is also worn.
The earrings worn by £ Mápilla women are enormous, and the lobe of the ear
becomes the size of a crown piece. The Māpillas are a most bigoted and ferocious
race, and are ready, on slight provocation, to use the long knives they wear at
their waists. Fanatical outbreaks among them took place in 1843 and 1849, and
several European officers have fallen victims to their vengeful feelings; among
others, but very recently, Mr. Conolly, Collector of Malabar. They learn Arabic
from their infancy, and are often proficients in that language. The Tángal, or
chief priest, resides at Kolikod, and has great influence over them.
The Syrian Christians'' existed in India so early as the third century.
In 325 a bishop from India was presented at the council of Nice. Cosmas visited
them in his voyage to India in 547, and describes their tenets as similar to those
of his own church, the Nestorian. He adds that their bishops came from Persia.
Not long after this, they seem to have obtained a grant of land near Koilandi.
When the Portuguese arrived, the Syrian Christians possessed upwards of one
hundred churches. Their scriptures and liturgy were in old Syriac. In 1595,
Menezes, Archbishop of Goa, endeavoured to force them to embrace the Catholic
faith, and began a hot persecution of recusants, which continued for 50 years.
Many became Catholics, and the number now belonging to that church is
reckoned at 150,000. In 1836, the Syrian Christians, who retained their old
belief, numbered 120,000. The head-quarters of the Romo-Syriac mission is at
Verápalli, near Cochin, and there the vicar-general resides. From Cochin harbor
seven Catholic churches are visible, and there are two seminaries and a large
establishment of priests. The chief errors of the Syrian Christians seem to be
offering prayers for the dead, prayers to saints, and enjoining auricular confession.
According to Wrede they deny the divinity of Christ, and maintain that the pro-
cession of the Holy Ghost is from the Father only. He adds that they have
three sacraments,—baptism, the eucharist, and orders, Buchanan and a writer in
the Transactions of the Royal Asiatic Society, vol. ii., 1837, deny the truth of
these assertions, and say that the doctrine of the Indo-Syriac church agrees with
that of the English Episcopal, except in holding seven sacraments, in saying
masses for the dead, in the use of holy oil in baptism, and in auricular confession.
They observe five lents in the year, and their fasts are very rigid.


Madras.
209
RouTE 42.-MADRAs To BENGALüR BY HossúR.
ROUTE 42.
MADRAS To BENGALöR BY HossúR,
212 M. 6 F.; FROM KURAMBAPATTI
To BENGALöR, 47 M. 7 F.
(For this Route as far as the Kuramba-
patti Pass see Route 7.)
MILITARY AUTHORITY—Officer com-
‘manding Maisür Division—Bengalir.
CIVIL AUTHORITY – Superintendent
of Bengalúr Division—Bengalir.
PLACES. STAGES.
M. F. M. F.
Kurambapatti to Kuram-
bapatti Pass, begins...... 0 7
Ditto ends.................... 1 1
Melmallé....... ... 0 3
x Chemmalpalliamr. & an.
to Udanar ................. 2 0
x Chinna Yairú r. to Bal-
luatimmenhalli............ 1 6
x 3 ms. to Golahalli........ 1 6
SHOLAGADI (Shola-
gherry) b. ....... ... 1 4 9 3
Gurupārādahalli ... 2 0
Coneripalli .................. 1 7
Kaitikanhalla x to Ka-
mandudi.................... 1 5
x Rāmāchandrahalla and
6 n. to Pendapalli ....... 3 7
Báglúr r. to Kupátanhalli l 1
Alságram ..................... 1 4
Hossúrpéta begins ......... 1 5
(a) HOSSUR(Ossoor) ends,
0 & # 0. ................... 0 4 14 1
Mukondapalli 2 3
Juzawādi..................... 1 2
Boundary ..................... 0 6
Attipalli....................... 0 4
Rd. from Bengalúr to the
Remount Depôt, which
is distant 7 m. 6 f. from
this spot.................... 0 2}
Kotarpalliam ................ 1 3}
Perumalpalli................. 2 1
YEBBAGODE b. 3 5 12 3
Kondappa Agrahāram...... 2 2
Timmasamudram.......... ... 1 7
Brahmanpalli................ 2 3
Maddawālam .... .... 1 0
Kupasamudram...... ....... 3 4
(b. BENGALUR, b. &
. o., CANTONMENT
MAIN GUARD ......... 1 0 12 0
47 7
From Kurambapatti to Sholagadi the
country abounds with small abrupt rocky
hills. From Sholagadi, which is a vil-
lage of about 100 houses, to Hossar, the
ascents and descents along the road be-
come very frequent.
(a) Hossar.—Hossar (Ossoor), “new
town,” in Kanarese, is the Madras Re-
mount Depôt, or Government stud, num-
bering about 1,550 horses, with some
Turki mares. The average cost of horses
assed for the service from the breeding
epartment is said to be lower than that
of those purchased at Bombay. The
ground occupied by the depôt extends
over 200 acres. The superintendent is
an officer of the commissariat depart-
ment, who has two conductors under
him—one for the remount and one for
the breeding establishment. March and
April are the critical months for the
horses, which are, however, in general
very healthy.
% Bengalur.—If the traveller leaves
Hossúr after dinner, between 9 and 10
# a good set of bearers will bring
him into Bengalúr about 4 in the morn-
ing; or he may drive, for there is an
excellent carriage road all the way. He
may then enjoy his bath and a sufficient
slumber before visiting the cantonment,
which is one of the largest, and de-
cidedly one of the most agreeable, in the
Madras Presidency. It lies in N. lat.
12° 58'., E. long. 77° 38', and is situated
midway between the coasts of Coro-
mandel and Malabar. Its great eleva-
vation, 3,000 ft. above the level of the
sea, and the proximity of the ocean on
the E., S., £ W., combine in endowin
it with a climate at once pleasant an
salubrious. European fruits and vege-
tables grow here in perfection. Straw-
berries are remarkably fine and abun-
dant, though the plants degenerate so
quickly that the beds require to be re-
newed every year. The peach-tree yields
a double crop. Large plums, the alli-
gator pear, oranges and limes, water
melons, mangos and loquats abound.
Apples, too, are plentiful and good; and
among vegetables, it will be sufficient to
enumerate potatoes, cabbages, cauli-
flowers, brocoli, carrots, turnips, radishes,
knolkole, asparagus, peas, beans, celery,
lettuces, endive, chervil, and a variety of


210
Sect. III.
nonra 42.—M.innAs ro nr:1vc.iL1in—sr-mc.ALt"a.

pot-herbs. Roses, violets, and the hone -
suckle, bloom uninterruptedlythro11gh-
out the year; and among the more
gigantic tropical lants, the eye every-
where recognises t e common ornaments
of the English garden, as larkspur, car-
nation, etc. D ' six months of the
year, the thermometer never reaches
80°, but ranges in a comfortable house
from 60° to 79°. The mornings and
evenings, from October to the middle of
Februa , are cold, and blankets are
absolute y required at night. March,
April, and May are rendered somewhat
disagreeable by the prevalence of strong
dry winds, attended with clouds of dust.
The remaining four months constitute
the wet season, and the climate is then
generally ve agreeable. The can-
tonment was rst arrisoncd in 1806,
but the town is no oubt a lace of some
antiquity. It is said that fra Gaud, a
common farmer of Aliir, near Conjeve-
ram in the Dravida, fled thence to save
his beautiful daughter from the impor-
tunities of the Waqlcyar or Baron of
that place, and founded about the
middle of the sixteenth century, the
village of Yellavanka, 13 miles N. of
Bengalfir. Subsequentl he attacked
and overcame the then adeyar of Ben-
lfir, and, taking possession of the place,
uilt there the present fort. About a
century afterwards, Ran Dulha Qian,
the Vi_]ayapur general, wrested this and
other ossessions from the fifth descend-
a:nt o Vira Gaud, whose family was ul-
timately extinguished by Dodda Kishen,
king of Maisiir, in 1728. Bengalfir next
fell into the hands of the Maratha chief-
tain, Shahjf, father of Sivaji, and passed
to his son Venkaji, who agreed to sell
it for three lakhs of rupees to Ohik Deo,
Raja of Maisiir; but Aurangzfb’s gene-
ral, Késim @5111, having captured it in
the meantime, the money was paid to
him. In 1758, the Maisfir Rejs granted
it as a fief to Haidar ’Ali, who greatly
strengthened its fortifications. In 1790,
.it was taken b Lord Cornwallis, with
the loss in kille and wounded of about
500 men, from Tipfi; and, when restored
to him by the peace of 1792, the fortifi-
cations were 111 a great measure dis-
mantled by his orders. In 1802, Par-
nouh, the minister of the Itaja of Mai-
sfir, to whom it had nominally reverted,
though really then, as now, in the hands
of the British, expended a considerable
sum in repairing it. It is nearly of an
oval form, with round towers at proper
intervals, and five owerful cavaliers, a
faussebray, a goo ditch and covered
we without palisades.
The Oantonment stands on an elevated
plateau, which runs E. and W. and
slopes N. and S. To the extreme E., is
the village of Alsfir, ad'oining which, on
the N., is the tank 0 the same name,
about a mile long. In the centre of the
embankment of this tank, is an enormous
rock of gneiss, from which there is an
extensive view of the N. art of the can-
tonment. The natives ave a le end
that a god appeared to Kempe and
(written Kempa Goud in the Madras
Topographical Report, but roperly
Kempe-Gaudu), the Romulus o Benga-
lfir in this spot, and revealed to him
a buried treasure. This Kemipp dug
up, and built with it a vc e an
large pagoda, which still stan to com-
memorate the occurrence, and is worth
of a visit. It is believed that there are
caverns in the rock beneath, filled with
treasure, and many influential natives of
high caste, attached to the public depart-
ments, reside near it, in consequence of
its sacred character. N. of the tank, are
the foot artillery barracks, and a quarter
of a mile further, those of the horse
artillery. To the \V. are the barracks of
the European cavalry, and the huts of
the native infantry, with their parade-
ground, and on an eminence still more
to the W. of these is a tower called
the Belfry, said to have been erected by
Kem e Gaud, to show the extent to
whic the city founded by him would
reach in after times. The road to Se-
ringapatam runs due W. from the village
of Alsfir, past the N. front of the fort,
which is 3% miles distant, and between
the fort and the Péta, or native town.
The buildings and parade-ground already
described, he to the N. of this road, as
does the residency, about a furlong from
it, and half way between Alsiir and the
Fort. S. of the road are, first, the race-
course, 1§ mile round, and possessing a
handsome stand and racket-court, erected
by the Riija of Maisfir: next to it, the


Madras.
211
RouTE 43.—MADRAs To BENGALüR BY Kol (R.
Dragoons' drilling-ground; then the
Brigade Parade-ground; the Sunakal
tank, and the Lál-bāgh garden and tank.
This garden was laid out by Haidar 'Ali
in the native taste, of which it may be
considered a specimen. The fashion is
to allot a separate piece of ground for
each kind of plant. Thus one square
plot is filled with rose-trees, another
with pomegranates, and so on. The
walks are ornamented with cypresses, a
favorite tree with Orientals, and to
which they are fond of comparing the
graceful stature of their mistresses. In
the fort is the old palace of Haidar and
Tipó, which may be inspected by those
who would like to know the arrangement
of rooms in an extensive and imperial
seraglio. The ladies' sleeping apart-
ments are mean and dark, not more than
12 feet square, and with no light but that
admitted by the door, or, in some, by a
hole about a foot wide. The water-
wheel in which Sir D. Baird was placed
to draw water for the amusement of
Tipú and his ladies has but lately been
removed.
Bengalir is a central position, from
which the traveller may visit some of the
most interesting localities in the Madras
Presidency. Hence to Seringapatam is
75 miles; to Maisür 84; to the Nilgiris
162; to the Falls of the Kávéri 77; to
the Gerseppa Falls 252; to Kadapa 157;
to Ballári 178; to Harihar 170; and
thence to Dharwar 93 miles. (Wide
Route 32 and following Routes.) Thus
it may be desirable even now, and
decidedly so, when the railway from
Madras to Bengalúris completed, for the
traveller to take up his head-quarters at
the latter place, and having fixed on his
nd return-route to England, to pay
ing visits to such sights as the Falls
#the Kávéri, etc.
ROUTE 43.
MADRAs To BENGALóR BY KoDAR AND
HoskoTA. 208 M. 14 F.
MILITARY AUTHORITY-To Nellagu-
talpalli: Officer commanding Centre
Division–Madras. From Nellagutal-
palli to Pannamakupilli: Officer com-
manding Maisür Division—Bengalur.
From Pannamakupilli to Alkuppam:
Officer commanding Ceded Districts—
Balldri. From Alkuppam to Bengalar:
Officer commanding Maisür Division—
Bengalur.
CIVIL AUTHORITY-To Damal, be-
yond Balchetti Chattram: Collector of
Chengalpatt–Pallikarni. From Damal
to Pannamakupilli: Collector of N.
Arcot–Chittur. From Pannamakupilli
to Alkuppam : Collector of Kadapa-
Kadapa. From Alkuppam to Bengalúr:
Superintendent of Bengalúr Division—
Bengalur.
PLACES. STAGES.
M. F. M. F.
PUNAMALLI, d. & t. o. *12 4
Shri Perumbudir, b.&t.o. 13 0
Rājā Chattram, b, ......... 14 2
Bălchetti Chattram, b..... 10 2
Wocheri Chattram, b...... 8 0
Arcot (to church) b. & p. o. 12 5
Rd. to Chittúr ............. 1 0}
x 3 m. to Narsingapuram 30
x Poiné r. 33 furlongs
wide, to Trivellam, b.... 1 3
Pudumotar ................. 3 3
SAIRKAD .. ... 1 1 9 7%
Mustarkupa................. 1 6
Chinna Bomasamudram ... 14
x n. to Timyapalli........ 1 2
x 4 m. to NARHARI-
PETA, b, ............... 3 4 8 0
Chimálapalli .. ... 1 0
Mutkarpalli................ 1 0
x Dumagunta Ghât to
Annapapilli....... - - - - - 3 0
Gangasagaram.............. 0 5
Reddigunta ..... ... 1 0
Greenpéta ......... - 1 5
(a) CHITTUR, b. t. o.... 1 2 9 4
Sangarpalli........... - - - - - 0 6
Veruwaram ................. 1 3
x Newna r. 110 yds. wide
to Waragapalli........... 1 1
Madureddipalli............. 0 5
BAIRIPALLI .. 3 0 6 7
Gunalkattamanji. ... 0 7
Nallasantapalli............. 0 3
x 3 m. to Danduwaripalli 40
X n, to Bangarázupälliam 1 6
VENKATAGADI, b, .... 0 6 7 6
x n. to Balamagulapalli 1 5
Balijaipalli........ 1 1
Mugli, 0..................... 6
x n. to Mugli Pass begins 0 3
.*For remarks relating to this and five follow-
ing stages see Route 7.


212
Sect. III.
ROUTE 43.–MADRAs To BENGALüR—CHITTöR.
PLACES.
Mugli Pass ends
Yellampalli.....
Madigapalli.................
(b) PALMANE'R, b.&t.o.
Nellagutalpalli.............
x a bridged r. to Marai-
mamillapilli.............
Máwill Agraháram ........
Gowindchettipilli......... •
Pattikunda...............
Pannamakupilli
Boundary .......... - - -
MARIMAKUL.APILLI
Gunarázupilli..............
Alkuppam ..... • • * * *
Boundary ....
Yellapilli... - - - -
Mudugadi...................
Nangali b. rd. to Gun-
dagal......................
Tardakal.....................
KAPPALMADDAGU ...
Taraipalli...... • * * * * *
Mulwāgal, b. & t. o. -
Wírubăchi...... • * * * * * * * • • • • -
Mukandalli ..
Wosahalli.... - - -
Kāmanir....................
x r. & n. to ALYA TAM-
BAHALLI b............ •
Srisamudram.... • * * *
Wudagar
Kumbaralli
Tamuka ............ .
Baitmangalam ra. joins
(c) KOLAR begins, b.&t.o.
Ballári rd. joins............
Kolár ends.........
Konarajupalli ..
Maddairalli.....
Chanchaipalli...
Narsapuram, b.
BELLUR ...
Râmâchandrapura.. •
Tawerkerré ................ •
MUGUBALA . - - - -
Artur.............. • * * *
Sriniwásapura....... - - - - -
(d) HOSKOTA or KOTA-
KOTAH b. & t. o. .....
Rd. to Hosstir .......
Rd. to Ballári .
Kátannellar....
Awalpalli.....
STAGES.
M. F. M. F.
4 4
0 6
0 1
1 1 11 3
1 2
2 0
2 1
0 7
1 2
1 4
0 2
0 1 9 3
2 2
1 5
0 4
0 3
1 0
1 0
2 4
2 7 12 1
1 2
2 5
1 7
1 3
1 5
2 7
1. 3 13 0
2 3
1 4
1 1
1 4
0 5
1 5 8 6
0 3
0 4
1 6
1 7
1 4
3 7
0 7 10 6
2 5
1 7
27 7 3
2 4
2 6
2 4 76
0 1
0 4
1 6
2 4
PLACES. STAGES.
M. F. M. F.
Maidalli................... ... 1 1
KRISHNARAJAPU-
RAM, t. o. ... ... 2 1 8 1
Nārāyanpura....... . 1 7
Billamangalam.. ... 2 2
Allastir....................... 1 1
BENGALUR CANTON-
MENT, b. & p. o. Main
Guard............. •- - - - - - - 1 5 6 7
208 13
The Route, as far as Arcot, has been
already described (see Route 7). From
that city, it takes a N.W. direction,
passing at the distance of 5% miles from
Arcot, the Poiné river, called by Thorn-
ton, “Puni,” and by Wilks, “Poony,”
an affluent of the Palár. This stream,
during the monsoon, is more than a
quarter of a mile broad, but in the dr
season sinks to a smaller stream.
large bridge across it at Trivellam is now
£ and is almost completed. Pass-
ing Sairkad, a small village with ten
wells and a tank, and Narharipéta, a
cluster of two or three villages together,
the traveller reaches Chittir, which may
be regarded as the capital of N. Arcot,
inasmuch as it is the residence of the
chief civil functionaries, and contains the
“Subordinate Court” and “Civil Court,”
which latter is a Court of Appeal, substi-
tuted by Art. VII. of 1843 of the Go-
vernment of India for the old Provincial
Court, which formerly existed. About
200 Sipahis are quartered here, and both
the civil and military officers reside in
commodious houses on the S.E. and
S.W. sides, in compounds thickly planted
with trees.
(a) Chittur.–Chittirlies in a valley said
to be 1,100 ft. above the sea, shut in on
all sides but the E. by hills composed of
coarse granite, gneiss, and greywacke,
and veined occasionally with iron ore.
The native town is ill-drained, and the
exhalations make it very unhealthy.
Elevated a little above it is the lower
fort, containing the old palace of the
former Pálegådus (Polygars) or chiefs
of the place, and a reservoir supplied
from a tank above with a perpetual
stream of fine water. From this is
the ascent of the Durg, or upper fort,


Maulras.
213
noun; 43.-—MADBAS T0 nnNosL1in——1I0sKom.
under six successive gateways, at dif-
ferent heights, and traversing a laby-
rinth of fortifications, all of solid
masonry, and windin irregularly up
from rock to rock, to t e summit. The
ascent is partly by steps, and partly by
almost superficial notches, cut in the
steep and smooth surface of the rock,
and to be scaled only with great diffi-
culty. The fort contains two beautiful
tanks, various temples, and a dee maga-
zine, well sunk in the rock. here is
not much historical interest about Chit-
t\’1r; the English suffered a reverse here,
when the fort was taken from them on
the 11th of November, 1781, by Haidar
‘Ali, and the garrison, consisting of one
battalion, destroyed. The gaols, which
can contain 800 prisoners, and are well
managed, may be inspected by those to
Whom such matters are of interest.
(6) .Palm¢me'r.—From Chittur, the road
passes due W. through Bairipalli, an
msignificant village of 30 houses, and
through the town of Venkatagadi to that
of Palmanér. About two miles before this,
an ascent commences at the Mugli Pass,
and Palmanér is 1,200 ft. above Chittiir,
being no less than 2,312 ft. above the
marine surface. This great elevation gives
to Palmanér a climate far superior to that
of Chittiir, to which it serves as a sana-
tarium. The temperature is 8° less, and
the ni hts are always pleasantly cool,
while t e freshness of the l'[l0l‘l1lIl air
invites to exercise. From this to olar
there is no lace of importance, the
three intermediate stations being all very
small villages.
(0) Kohir.-—-Kola’r,inlat l3° 8', E. long.
78° 10', is a large town, once strong as a
native fort. In this place, Fath Muham-
mad, the father of I-_Iaidar ‘Alf, is buried,
and here is also the mausoleum where
Haidar himself lay, till his son removed
his bones to the Lsrbsg, near Seringa-
patam. Lord Valentia and others in-
correctly call Kolar the birth lace of
Haidar. He and his brother hahbaz
were both born at Budikota (“Ashes-
fort.” For an account of most re-
markable mounds of scorious ashes, sup-
posed to be the remains of immense sac-
rificial holocausts, see Journal of Ray.
As. Sea, vol. iii., p. 129), a town 17
miles to the S. of Kolar. His father,
Fath Muhammad, had been residing at
Kolar, where he married the daughter
of a respectable Nevayat, or a man of
Arabian descent, who had travelled to
Maisiir from the Konkan. Of this mar-
ria e spran Haidar. Fath Muham-
ma himsel was descended from a reli-
gious personage, who flourished in the
Panj ab, and afterwards came to the
Dakhan, named Muhammad Bahlol.
The domes of the mausoleum are hand-
some, surrounded by trees, with a lofty
and craggy hill in the back-ground, and
altogether form a beautiful view. Kolar
is the capital of the district. W. of it
four miles, there is a place where 10,000
men might encamp. Belliir and Muga-
bala, are small villages. On the top of
the hill, close to the town, is a payada,
in which is some fine carving. At the
village of Marlcuppam, not far 0fi', gold
dust rs found, and Hamilton says that
the country to the distance of 130 square
miles round this spot is impregnated
with gold.
(d) Hoskota.—Hoaa-kota (Ooscotah)
“New Fort," is a town of about 1,000
houses, the mud fortifications of which
were once of some strength. Haidar 'A1i,
in 1761, obtained the title of Bahadur
Jang, “brave in war,” as the price of his
assistance to Basalat J ang, the brother of
the Sfibahdar of the Dakhan, in capturing
this fort. It lies low and is generally
healthy, but its extreme sickliness in one
particular year may serve as an example
of those extraordinary epidemical fevers
of terrible fatality, but of short duration,
which occur from time to time in Maisfzr.
In 1836, a fever, of typhoid type, broke
out here, which swept away in a few
weeks 2,000 persons; so dreadful wero
its ravages, that even the letter-carriers
refused to enter the place. Since then
it has recovered its former reputation
of salubrity. Between this place and
Bengalfir, which has been already de-
scribed (see Route 42), there is only the
station of Krishnarajapuram, a small
village.
ROUTE 44.
MADRAS -ro nnnesrfin, BY rns warns-
rvsuu rsss AND xornin.
(As there is no place of importance on
this Route but those already described,
the stages only are given It is rather


214
Sect. III.
RoUTE 44.—BENGALüR TO BELGAoN.
more direct than Routes 2 and 3, and
lies exactly between them, having Am-
buirpét as much to the S. as Chittir is
to the N. The Naikanairi Pass is steep,
and said to be incapable of improvement,
et it was by this route that the forces of
£ penetrated into the Karnātak,
£ forming, part of his equipment.
he average slope is one foot in eight.)
STAGES. M. P.
From the Walajah Gate of Fort
St. George to Punamalli....... 12 4
Koratūr (New Chattram), b....... 8 1
Pinjibakam ......................... 10 2
(b. at Perambákam, 3 m. 7 f. fur-
ther on)
Pichipäkam............. • * * * * * * * * * * * * 4
b. at Pallu-ir, 7 m. further on)
rimapür ... ... 9 2
Allapākam, b. ... 10 1
Allikolam ...... • * * * * * - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 9 6
(b. at Trivellam, 7 m. 2 f. further
on)
Karmampéta. ........................ 10 3
Latairi, b, ..... 11 0
Kotapéta .............. 6 5
Guriattam, b, & t. o. ... 8 2
Lálapét, b, ............... 9 0
Naikanairi, b, ........... 10 1
Venkatagadi, b. & t. o.... 9 1
Baitmangalam, b, & t. o. .. 11 2
Shamrapalli, b, .............. 8 7
Kolár, b. & t. o.. 8 2
Narsapuram, b. 9 7
Mugubala .......... 8 2
Hoskota, b. & t. o. .... 7 6
Krishnarajápuram..... .... 8 1
Bengalúr, b. & p. o. .................. 6 7
302 2
ROUTE 44–Continued.
(Section of Route 7, Madras to Bombay).
BENGALóR (BANGALORE) To BELGAoN
£ BY CHITRADURG (CHIT-
TLEDRoog), HARIHAR (HURRYHUR),
sAvANGR, HúBLI, DHARWAR, AND
KITTÜR. 311 M. 7 F.
MILITARY AUTHORITY.—To the Fort
on r. b. of the Tungabhadra (Toomboo-
dra), r. after Harihar: Officer com-
manding Maisür Division—Bengalur.
Thence to Belgaum: Officer command-
ing South Division of Bombay Army—
Belgaum.
CIVIL AUTHORITY.--To Bámanhalli:
Superintendent of Bengalúr Division—
Bengalur. Thence to Davengadi: Su-
perintendent of Chitradurg Division—
Tumkir. Thence to Tungabhadra r. b. b.
after Harihar: Superintendent of Nagar
Division—Shimuga. Thence to Kittúr:
Collector of Dhārwär–Dharwair. Thence
to Belgaum: Collector of Belgaum—
Belgaum.
PLACES. STAGES.
From Cantonment, Main
Guard to Residency......
Kutupalli.....................
x 2 n. to Yessantapuram
Pi-enam..................... •-
Sogasamudram.
Dásahalli.............
MADAVERAM .. - - - -
Gadamanalli..................
x Arkawati r. to Arki-
mánalli.....................
Kungal rd. joins.
Dásanpura ........
Arsenkuté ......... • -
Pinnamangalam ............
Nelwanglam, b, & t. o. .....
Bâmanhalli..... - -
Tolsankupé ........... • - - - - -
TAPPAD BAIGUR ......
Tippanalli....................
Kulánalli....
Taimaguntla • -
Kempanalli ..................
DOBB’S PETA SOM-
PUR, b, ... - - -
Agalamkupé..................
Nidgigal Drug descends ...
Nandahalli...................
Chikkanalli..
Mandaganalli..
Kaitsamudram ........
TUMKUR, b. & t. o.
Merkara ra. joins ..
Udikairé .............
KORA .....
Golaratti.....
Timråiánalli ...
NELHAL, b. .
Chikkisi......
Joiginalli.........
Bomasamudram.. - - - -
Karrijawanalli...............
i
l
1
0
|
!
8 5
12 3
7 2
6 3


Madras.
215
RouTE 44.—BENGALüR To BELGAoN.
PLACES.
MARLAGAUDENPAL-
LIAM (near Kalambella
%) ....................... ...
c: -
Yārganalli......
Yemmaralli.......
SIRA, b. & t. o. .
Mānangi...........
Daivahalli......
Taverikairah ...
Pängeré ...
Nellukirré .
JAUNKON
". ...........................
Unshitiri ..
Adewal.................. - - -
HARIU'R, b. t. o. ..........
× Huggidi r. to Yodukarré
Maidukür........ - - - - -
Hulial ........................
AYAMANGALAM, b, ....
Nandranalli..................
Pallanalli....
Kaitikerré . .
Ingallalu ....
Kusanalli... - - -
Ballārird. ....................
CHITRADURG (Chittle-
droog), b. t. o. ............
Shimoga ra. .... - - -
Kargattigam....
Markatta ..
Pallagatta
Godapalli...............
VIJAYAPUR, b, ....
Híra Bennúr ...........
Chikka Bennúr ....
Chettanalli........ - -
Kotall.........................
BRAHMASAGARAM, b.
Ambandr .....................
Unsikatté....
Yebbali .
Arlwanti ....
ANAGOD, b.
Kaikanūr .........
Wanshettinalli ..
Kalpanalli........
Wudanalli .....
A werrikerré .... - - - -
Chikkanalli..................
DAVENGADI, b, .........
Yerrapādi.....................
STAGES.
M. F. M. F.
2 0 10 0
1 7
2 1
1 5
2 0 7 5
4 2
2 1
1 4
1 0
1 6
2 1" 12 6
1 7
5 7
4 2 12 0
3 3
1 0
3 7
3 5 11 7
3 3
1 4
1 7
2 0
0 5
3 1
0 1 12 5
0 4
1 0
4 5
1 3
1 3
0 5 9 4
2 6
0 6
1 6
1 0
2 0 8 2
2 0
2 4
2 0
1 2
2 5 10 3
1 7
1 1
1 6
0 4
2 2
1 0
1 5 10 1
4 2
PLACES.
Nilahalli ...... -
r. to Harihar Fort, which
is 1 m. 3 feet. distant ...
Amrawati ....................
HARIHAR (Hurryhur)
(to Barracks), b. & t. o.
From Fort on Tungabha-
dra r. r. b. to l.b. Kurial
Uderalli............. -
Kerrúr ......
Chelkerré -
x n. to Ushaikatté..... -
x n. to RANI BENNUR
x n. to Kunbaiwu..........
x n, to Kajelli..........
x 2 n. to Kágol ...
x m. to Chakkra - -
Lakshmipura ................
x 2 n. to MOTE BEN-
NUR, b, ..................
x n. to Humallah .. -
x n. to Nelluwa-Kal .
x n. to Yellapuram....
x n. to Awerí...........
Lakmapura...... -
DAIWIGADI ..............
x Varada r. to Melkatté
x n. to Wurlikupa..........
SAVANUR, b, .... -
Silair ............ -
x n. to Badní ..... -
x 2 n. to Chondalu.
x 2 n. to Konalli............
i 72. : SHESANAL..... •
fra Arguni .................
Chikka K'i
Kammudalli.......
x n, to Blabel.. -
KUNDAGAL...............
HUBLI N. GATE, b, ....
x n. to Wunukal............
Bhairi Devakupa......
x n. to Amaragola .
Sautikatté ....
Naular .......... -
Dhārwärpéta ................
DHARWAR FORT, b. t. o.
Saidapur .....................
Monimkatti ..
YENGERA..
Yenktapur.........
Bara Taigir, b, .. - - -
KITTUR ....................
STAGES.
M. F. M. F.
1 2
1 3
0. 5
1 2 8 6
0 2
27
1 7
1 5
3 3
4 3 14 3
3 1
2 0
2 1
1 6
1 6
2 1 12 7
2 4
1 4
2 1
1 5
1 3
3 4 12 5
22
27
4 1 9 2
3 2
0 4
2 5
0 6
2 3 9 4
6 6
1 1
1 3
1 4
2 1 12 7
9 6
27
1 0
1 4
1 3
2 3
3 0
0 4 12 5
1 0
5 1
2 6 8 7
3 6
1 7
5 2 10 7


216
Sect. III.
RouTE 48.—UTAKAMAND To HoNAwAR.
PLACES. STAGES.
M. F. M. F
Timapur ...................... 0 5
DASTIKOPAL............. 8 0 8 5
x Malparbar. 90 yds. wide 04
it' Húbli, b, ...... 1 1
Mutunal ................. .... 34
HIRA BAGHWARI ..... 2 2 7 3
Bastawārí .................... 6 0
Algaví ................ ........ 10
x Ballarin, bridged ....... 1 5
Old Belgaum ...... ......... 0 5
Shahpur ..................... 0 4
BELGAON (Belgaum)
FORT, p. o. .............. 1 6 11 4
311 7
ROUTE 48.
(Routes 11 and 32 continued.)
MADRAs To BoMBAY, BY MAHABALIPU-
RAM, SATURANKAM (SADRAs). PUDU-
CHERI (PoNDICHERRY), GöDALöR
(CUDDALORE), PoHTo Novo, SITTAM-
PARAM (CHILLAMBRAM), TALLANGAM-
BADI (TRANQUEBAR), KUMBHAKONAM
(CoMBAcoNAM), TANJ GR, TRICHINA-
PALLI (TRICHINOPoLY), TRIPATöR,
RAMNAD, PALIAM-KoTTA (PALAM-
CoTTAH), MADURA, DINDIGAL, SALEM,
Koim BATúR (CoIMBATORE), UTAKA-
MAND, MANANTADI, MAISüR, SERINGA-
PATAM, SHIVASAMUDRAM, BENGALöR,
síRA, HARIHAR, AND HONAWAR.
1729 M. 4 F.
For Military and Civil Authorities
to Utakamand, see Routes 11 and 32.
Thence:
MILITARY AUTHORITY.—From Uta-
Kamand to Harihar: Officer command-
ing Maisür Division-Bengalur. Thence
to Boundary after Holawikonda: Officer
commanding S. Division of Bombay
Army–Dharwar. Thence to Honawar :
Officer commanding Maisür Division—
Bengalir.
CIVIL AUTHORITY.—To Bâwalli:
Collector of Malabar-Kolikod/Calicut).
To Kannuva r.: Superintendent of
Ashtagram Division—Maisür. To Bam-
manahalli: Superintendent of Bengalúr
Division—Bengalur. To Davenhalli:
Superintendent of Nagar Division-
Shimuga. To Holuwikonda: Collector
of Dharwär–Dharwar. To boundary
after Soruba r. : Superintendent of
Nagar Division—Shimuga. To Honá-
war: Collector of Kanara—Mangalur.
PLACES. STAGES.
M. F. M. F.
MADRAS to UTAKA-
MAND... - -
Kandal........................
X £ r., 140 yds.
wide, to PYAKERRA, b.
Neduwattam Pass begins...
Neduwattam, b, .............
Neduwattam Pass ends.....
GUT)ALUR, b, .....
NELLIALAM, b, ..
× 3 n. to Kolpalli..
Cherangkoté ......
Naicheri ......
Nellimadu ..
Chalikod ....
Mangalam .....
Koliad or Golawadi .......
GANAPADDIWATTAM,
0............ ................
x n. to rd, to Kolikod......
Yeddúr ..................
Walla-úr ........
Rd. to Kolikod .
Pannapádi ....
Pudadynādu...
Naddaperi.....
Putang Angadi ..............
x 2 n. to PANAMURTA-
KOTA, b, ................. 1
x Kabbani r., 100 yds.
wide, to Kupatatta ...... 1
Koileri Nadu ................ 1
x r. to Yellurădu Nádu ... 2
Waltir Aman Kovil ......... 1
(a) x 2 n. to MANANTA-
WADI, b. t. o............. 1
x n to Virajandrapét rd.
OlliS .........
BAWALLI, b, ..............
x Bawalli r. to Udugan-
malla........................
x 2 n. to Anaimalla ........
x 2 n. to Nettaikalundi....
KAKANKOTA, b, .......
x 3 m. Mahāswāmi Kovil
Katapur.......................
X_n, to Rägalkupa..
ANTERSANTI, 5...
Kolyagaudenalli .. • *
Bhupanalli ...... * * * * * * * * * * * * *
844 0
1
0
1
1
1
1
3
1
6
1
5
|
6
7
7
3
:
i
l
0
2
13


*
Madras. ROUTE 48.–UTAKAMAND TO HONAWAR.
PLACES.
M.
x Kabbánir. to Mādawapur 2
Kuchapanhundi............. 1
x m. to KARGOLA ........ 2
x 2 n. to Hampapur, b, ... 2
Manhalli..................... 3
x 2 n. Aroli ................. 1
*: to CHATTENHALLI,
• - - - - - 3
x 2 n. to Salundi ........... 2
Chaudhalli, b................. 3
x 2 n. to Daivigaudagundi 1
(b). Maisür begins (visit
# Seringapatam from
this)........................
TRAVELLER'S bangld...
End of Péta..................
Wodaralli ............
Aldalli........
Chikkalli .. --
Worna ................
NAIRNALLI.......
Kellaigatpur ........ -
Tammasalli..................
Purnaya Agrahāram, Se-
ringapatam ra. ioins ....
K.' : • - - - -
x Kávéri r. 450 yds. wide
to SOSELLI... -
Warruhalli........
Chikka Bagulu ...
Narripur...........
Burikalli ....
£ •- - - - -
appakandapur ..
£ • • - - - - - - - - -
Belkuwädi......... • -
Rudrandudi..................
Rd. to Bengaldr by Madir 1
x Kávéri r. by bridge to
(d) SHIVA SAMUDRAM,
private 5....................
Bridge over Kävéri
Bridge ends .......
x n. to Malkatanalli.......
Wosahalli.....................
Dasendudi ........ -
Sirumalli.......... - - -
Kundir........................
Pass 3 tanks to MUNA-
WALI, t. o................ 4
Golakatta..................... 2
Mandagahalli............... 3
Waulikairi ................... 2
#
:
||
T.
'.
:
1
3
4
1
1
2
10 7
10 6
8 7
10 3
9 7
14 5
PLACES.
x Kannuvar, to Yegganár
NIRALUR..................
x n. to Nunur ....... -
Sogala................. -
Arravalli.....................
Chuleri........
Chaikanur...... - - -
Bairapatnam ...... -
Dodda Mallaòr...............
x Kannuva r. 1 f wide to
Chikka Mallair. .........
CHINNAPATANAM.b.t.o.
Wannaganhalli....
Vandargupa.......... ...
CLOSEPET, b. t. o. ......
x Arkawati r. to Miagon-
halli........................
BIDDADI, b. t. o. .........
Billakampenhalli....
Lakshmisägar ....
Yejalla.............
Kannekamaneké.. - - -
Chelghat.....................
KINGARI, b, ...............
Nayendahalli ...............
Devatramenhalli............
Bengalúr Fort, outer gate
CANTONMENT main
guard ............ . . . . . . . . . . .
General Cubbon's house....
Kutupalli.....................
x 2 n. to Yassantapur......
Pí-enam.......................
Sogasamudram ...
Dassarhalli..........
MADAVERAM ...... • * *
Gadamanalli.................
x Arkawati r. to Arki-
mánalli.....................
Kungal rd. joins ......
Dassenpura..
Arsenkuté .....
Pinnamangalam.
Nelwanglam b. t. o. ........
Bámanhalli ..................
Tolsankupé...................
TAPPAD BAIGUR ......
Tippanalli....................
Kulánalli.....................
Taimaguntla ... • • - -
Kempanalli...................
DOBBS PETA - SOM-
PUR, b. ...... * * * * * * * * * * * * *
-
0|
13 2
7 0
9 4
10 0
10 3
|
!
























1
0


218 RouTE 48.—UTAKAMAND To HoNAwAR. Sect. III.
PLACES. STAGES. PLACES. STAG
M. F. M. F. M. F. M.
Agalamkupé................. 0 7 Híra Bennór ................ 2 6
Nidgigal Drug descends.... 1 2 Chikka Bennár ..... ... 0 6
Nandahalli................... 1 5 Chettanalli........... .... 16
Chikkanalli.................. 10 Kotal .......................... 1 0
Mandaganalli.. . 1 4 BRAHMASAGARAM,
Kaitsamudram. 24 b. s. c. .. ... 2 0 8
TUMKUR, b. s. c. t. o. 3 5 12 3 || Ambanu 2 0
Merkära ra. joins..... ... 1 3 Unsíkatté 2 4
Udikairé ...... • • * * * * * * * . 3 0 Yebbali ... 2 0
KORA ....... ......... 27 72 Arlwanti ............ 1 2
Golaratti .... ........ 12 ANAGOD, b, s, c. 2 5 10
Timråiánalli........... ... 2 3 Kaikanór ............ . 1 7
NELHAL, b. s. c........... 2 6 6 3 | Wanshettinalli... 1 1
Chikkisi ................ ... 1 0 Kalpanalli........ 1 6
Joginalli......... • * * * * * * ... 30 Wudanalli........ ... 04
Bomasamudram ............. 1 7 Averikerré ....... ... 22
Karrijawanalli .............. 2 2 Chikkanalli.................. 1 0
MARLAGAUDENPAL- DAVENGADI, b. s. c...... 1 5 10
LIAM, near Kallam- Yerrapadi .................... 4 2
bella, b. s. c. .............. 20 10 0 | Nilahalli.... ... 1 2
Chikkanalli. 1 7 Rd. to Harihar Fort,
Yarganalli... . 2 1 which is 1 m. 3 feet off 1 3
Yemmaralli.................. 1 5 Amråwati..................... 0. 5
.... 20 75 (h) HARIHAR, b. t. o. to
4 2 barracks) .................. 1 2 8
2 1 From centre of Péta to
1 4 Tungabhadra r. b......... 02
1 0 Ditto '. b. ..................... 0 2
1 6 Wusahalli..................... 5 1
JAUNKONDANAHALLI, x 3 m. to Yiddiki ........... 4 1
b. *, *........................ 2 1 12 6 | x 4 n. to ALLEKAIR.I... 4 4 14
Anshitiri.......... .... 1 7 x n. to Wosakur ........... 3 4
Adewal........................ 5 7 Yeddai-al..................... 2 0
HARIUR, b. s. c. t. o. 42 12 0 | Lingadarikupa .. 2 6
X Huggidir. to Yodukarré 33 Wodai-aralli.. 1 3
£ . 1 0 KOD ........ 2 4 12
Hulial................ .... 37 Kallikonda .... 2 5
AYAMANGALAM, b. s. c. 3 5 11 7 | Bassahalli ..... .......... 16
Nandranalli................... 3 3 Yerrakerrór .................. 1 5
Pallanalli......... .... 14 x m. to HOLAWIKONDA 3 2 9
Kaitikerré ........ ... 1 7 Boundary..................... 1 2
Ingallalu ...... ... 20 Taddasatanalli.. 0 2
Kusanalli......... .... 0 5 Hulienakupa.... 2 5
Ballári rd. joins............. 3 1 Chanchakopa ... 2 6
(g)CHITRADURG, b. s. c. Wodakairi ...... 0 6
t. 0. ........................ 0 1 12 5 || SIRALKUPA.. 2 1 9
Shimoga ra....... 0 4 Billiwani ........ 2 6
£ • - - - - 1 0 Andigi ... 3 6
Markatta .. 4 5 Godkanni... 2 2
Pallagatta 1 3 SORUBA, t. o. 2 4 11
Godapalli..................... 1 3 x r. to Yelsi......... 3 4
VIJAYAPUR x n. to Konamanné........ 2 1
*, *, *. ...................... 5 94 Kadasūr....................... 1 4
:


-—=mm-
Madras.
PLACES.
TA
''
:
x Varadá r., 90 yds. wide,
to Baradabailu............
2
Boundary ......... 0
#. - .... 0
Siralaki ........ .... 0
BELU-ULI.................. 2 13 5
Siddhapuram, b. t. o. ...... 1
Hosstir........................ 0
x n. to Tarsa .... 2
BAIRDKANNI 1
Daserikaddé .. ... 2
Bilghi ....................... 1
x Somawati r. 60 yards
wide, and n. to Ittighi 3
ALLAWALI, b, ...... ...... 2
5
5
Ditto Ghât begins .......... 0
x ascents and descents and
n: to (i) GERSEPPA, b. 9
x Jok r. to Kasubail ....... 1
x Ghātand 2 n. to Yerangi 4
x n. to Sulukodu .......... ... 3
1
2
0
Kamālankerwa ..... • * * *
WOSAD .............. •- - - - -
x r. to Mannakarru .......
Junction of 2 r. and x 1 r.
to (j) HONAWAR or
HONORE, b. t. o.........
13 0
|
RouTE 48.—UTAKAMAND To HoNAwAR—MAlsóR.
219
3 3 4 1
1389 4
HONAWAR to BOMBAY 340 0
1729 4
In order to see the fine forest scenery
of the Wainád (Wynaad) country, of
which Manantawādi (Manantoddy) is
the chief town, the traveller : pass
this way to Maisür, though he thereby
makes a considerable détour. The road
to Pyakerra is very good, passing over a
succession of hills and dales. The river
is crossed in basket boats, and is the
boundary of the Wainád district. Pya-
kerra is a healthy place. At Gudalur
there are a few shops, and a market
every Thursday. Peons are stationed
here to assist travellers, who may halt
without risk of fever, Nellialam is a
small place, but ordinary supplies may
be procured through peons stationed for
that purpose. The road after Nellialam
leads at first through high bambá
jungle, but afterwards it becomes marshy
and bad. At Ganapaddiwattam, or Sul-
tan's Battery, there is a good bázár.
The traveller's banglá is pleasantly
situated in an old redoubt, on an emi-
nence, with a fosse round it. Pana-
murtakóta is a small village. The road
thence passes over a hard sandy soil,
with a gentle descent the whole way.
For 10 miles the country is covered with
a dense and almost impervious forest.
(a) Manantawddi.-During October
the direct road to Manantawādi by the
pagoda is impracticable on account of
the streams, but after November, it is
open. At Manantawādi a local force is
stationed. The town is about 4000 ft.
above the sea, and the temperature is
moderate, never rising to 80°. Wheel
carriages can reach this place from the
east, £ afterwards bullocks must be
used for the transport of baggage to the
hills; and to procure them, notice must
be given beforehand. Wainádor Bainád
(also called Nelakal and Wainátil by the
natives), signifies ' country, for
though thickly wooded the jungle is less
dense than in the Koté-hatti, a district
in Malabar, which formerly belonged to
the Rājā of the Wainád. Wilks gives
a curious account of the ceding of
Wainád by the Rājā to the Rājā of
Kurg in 1789. In 1792 the country was
# ed to the # by Tipó, but the
&já, usually called the Paichi Raja,
long resisted the usurpation, and in-
flicted much loss on the invaders.
Wainád produces the santalum album,
or sandal-wood, and the finest cardamoms
in the world. They can be told at once
from all other cardamoms by the number
of fine white seeds.
The first stage from Manantawādi to
Maisür is through thick bambu jungle,
over a succession of ascents and descents.
The hamlet of Bawali is a feverish place,
and a night should not be passed there.
The country continues jungly as far as
Antarsanti. All the other places to
Maisür are small villages unworthy of
notice.
(b.) Maisür.—The city of Maisür
£ in lat. 12°. 19', long. 76°42',
is built at an elevation of about 2,450
ft. above the sea, on a declivity formed


ll/lwdras. noura 48.—-UTAKAMAND T0 noNfiwAa—sEa11vesrArAM. 221
sions; but next year he obliged Tipfi to
submit to severe terms as the price of
raising the siege. The subsequent con-
duct of this Prince brought a British
army a ain before it in 1799, and on the
3rd of ay the fort was stormed, Tipu
slain, and his possessions virtually an-
nexed to the Company's territories,
though there was a show of restoring
them to the representative of their an-
cient Hindfi Princes.
Seringapatam lies in lat. 12° 25', long.
76° 45’. Its site is not favoured by
nature, for though 2,412 ft. above the
sea, it is low as com ared with the sur-
rounding country. he hills around
are barren, and even the Kavéri, which
washes the island on which the town is
built, sinks in the dry season to an insig-
nificant stream, about 100 yds. wide and
4 ft. dee . This islandis about threemiles
in lengt and one in breadth, having the
river to the N. and S.\V. The plan of
the fort is an irregular penta on, about
1% miles in diameter from S. . to N.W.,
and § of a mile in breadth. To the E.
and S. the defences were very strong,
and the place was therefore stormed 111
1791 by an advance across the river, on
which side, owing to a vain belief in the
security afforded bv the stream, the for-
tifications had notbeen rendered equally
formidable. The walls of the fort are
strongly built of stone, and the gateways
are particularly strong, having several
turns at right angles; but the plan is
otherwise unskilful, being deficient in
flanking fires, havin no covered way or
revetemens. A goo view of the city and
of the surrounding coun may be ob-
tained by ascending the minarets of the
Sultan’s mosque,0r Juma’ah Jllasfid, built
by Tfpfi not long before his death. The
city, which can never have had any pre-
tensions to architectural beauty or sym-
metry, is now but the mouldering ske-
leton of what it once was. In its palrny
days it is said to have numbered 300,000
inhabitants, a number, erhaps, not
exaggerated, if we inclu e the troops
and their followers who then thronged
it. In 1800 the population had fallen
to 31,895, and it may be doubted whether
that number is not now greatly reduced.
There is a -ruinous, poverty-stricken air

about the place, which warns the visitor
truthfull of its real condition. Never-
theless, t e view is not wholly devoid of
attractive points. To the N., at the
distance of about five miles, is the sta-
tion called French Rocks, from its having
been occupied bya Frenchregiment in the
time of Tipfi. It is now occu ied by a
corps of Native Infantry an a small
detachment of artillery. The Canton-
ment is rettily situated near a large
tank. The proper name is Yirod or
Erode. It was found requisite, on ac-
count of the unhealthiness of the city, to
remove the troo s that formerl arri-
soned it to that ace. To the . is s
chain of hills rom which the Kfivéri
descends. On the S. the great breach
was made, and there the British troops
advanced to the storm. There, too, Tipu
fell, after he had sallied from his palace,
which abuts the wall in that direction.
Close in front of the palace is the build-
ing where the European prisoners were
confined ; where Lindsay, and Baillie,
and Gordon, and many other gallant
hearts pined in captivity; and, fitting
retribution ! hard by the same spot came
the advancing stormers, and the anio-
stricken Moslems were swept away efore
them; and there, too, the tyrant him-
self and his detested minister, Mir seam,
sealed the victory with their blood. All
along this very part there are now trees
with luxuriant foliage, and the grass
grows freshly under them. One would
call it the most quiet, peaceful spot even
in this silent, deserted city. \Vithin the
fort there are now about 4,000 Hindus,
and half that number of Musalman ; but
there are hundreds of deserted houses
fast falling to ruin. The palace is a vast
stragglin building without much de-
sign, an in its present state of decay
more resembles a u e caravansérai than
the habitation of a rince. A pillar in
the Harim is shewn which was fractured,
as they say, by a cannon ball during the
bombardment. The passage isalso pointed
out where the chained tigers were kept,
whose roarings were heard by the pri-
soners. In the place in which they were
immured there are piles of cannon shot and
broken guns. In the front of the palace
there is a spacious maiddn or plain, once


222 nourn 48.—UTAKAMAND TO HON.»iWAR-— SIIIVA SAMUDRAM. Sect.1II.
covered with oflices, and separated from
the walls by a huge ditch, which has
been filled u and planted. Near the
prison is a ne Hindu tem le to Shri
Ranga, where the family of t e Rsjs of
Maisiir took refuge during the storm.
The old inhabitants still speak of the
horrors of the siege, and say that 17,000
persons were slaughtered 111 the storm.
They raise Tipfi, and, indeed, songs
are sti sung in his honour, not only
near the seat of his empire, but even
in the distant province of Malabar.
The tombs of the nobles who died
in his defence are pointed out at the
Juma’ah Masjid.
At the lower end of the island are two
gardens, the one called the Lal Bagl_1,
and the other the Daryau’d-daulat Bagl_\,
and between them is the suburb named
Shahr Ganjan, which Tipfi destroyed,
fearing it would afford cover to his be-
siegers, but which was subsequently re-
built. It is little better than a succes-
sion of mud hovels. The Lal Bagl_1 is a
lace of considerable interest, both for
its natural beauties and as enclosing
the Dargah, or magnificent mausoleum
of Iqlaidar and his son, which Buchanan
calls the handsomest building he ever
beheld in India. Tipn’s mother was
likewise interred there ; and the English
Government still allows a monthly sti-
pend of 1,000 rupees for the mainte-
nance of the place and of the Musal-
man doctors who pray there. The ap-
proach is by an avenue of tall cypress
trees. The garden, being well supplied ‘
with water by canals from the river, looks
refreshingly green. The mausoleum itself 1
is a domed building of moderate dimen- '
sions, the portico of which rests on pillars ‘
of black hornblende found in the neigh-
bourhood, and which takes s. surprising I
polish. Close by are the graves of 46 ‘
English otficers and men, of which the
tomb of Col. Baillie alone is remarkable.
It was erected, so says the inscription, by
his nephew, Colonel Baillie, Resident at
Lakhnau (Lucknow). Here is food sufii- >
cient for those who would moralise, for
licrc the victor and the van uished sleep
together in one spot. The arya Bagh l

was the favorite country house of Tipfi, ‘
and was afterwards the residence of a ,
still greater man, the Duke of Welling-
ton, then Colonel Wellesley. On the
walls are painted the triumphs of I;Iaidar
and Tipn, in which Baillie and other
officers of his unfortunate army were
conspicuous, and are still discernible in
spite of the whitewash which, with ques-
tionable taste, has been applied to obli-
terate them. The garden is beautiful,
and has great associations, but, unfortu-
nately, it is a very hot-bed of fever, even
more so, if possible, than the rest of
Seringapatam.
The traveller who has abundant time
for sight-seeing might proceed from Se-
ringapatam to the village of Smmma
Belgula, 33 miles N .W. of it, which is
now the head-quarters of the Jain reli-
gion in India, and where there is a
gigantic image of Parasnath, the Deity
of the J ains, 70 ft. high, cut out of the
solid rock. It stands on a hill which
rises to the elevation of 500 ft., and has
a very singular appearance, seeming to
lean and look over the wall of the temple
which has been built around it.
(d) Shiva Samudra/m.—But the great
attraction in this locality is Shiva
Samudram, the Falls of the Kdvéri,
which is to be visited an route to
Bengalnir, and which is indubitably
one of the sights most worth seeing in
S. India. There is nothing remarkable
on the road thither. Soselli is a large
place with a fort ; the other two stations
are mere hamlets. At Shiva Samudram
the Kavéri forms an island about three
miles long and one in breadth, which,
as the stream is here during the rains
exceedin ly rapid and strong, was natu-
rally a pdace of great strength, at least
against native assailants. Accordingly
it became the stronghold and capital of
a Raja, whose fortres and town were
utterly _destroyed by one of the Bellél
Rajas, perhaps about the 15th century.
Ruins of walls and temples are stillto be
seen, but there is no authentic account
of the history of the place, though various
legends are told. For a long period the
place, being utterly deserted except by a
solitary fakir or two, became overgrown
with a. thick 'ungle, infested with tigers
and other wild beasts. The bridges which
had led to the town, formed of huge


Maclraa. noon: 48.—-UTAKAMANI) T0 iaio1v.iwss.—sn1vA SAMUDRAM. 223
blocks ofblaek stone, some placed upright
singly as pillars, and others laid across,
in the manner of Egyptian buildings,
were broken and dilapidated, and the
whole island had in fact returned to the
state of a rimitive jun le. However,
in 1825, a agirdar name Rama Swami
Mudeliar, carried a fine bridge across,
repaired the temples, and built a tra-
veller's bangla, laying out a. large sum
on the works, which it took him three
years to finish. Government were so
pleased with his ublic spirit that they
granted the island, to him and his heirs
in J agir. They also bestowed on him
the title of Jamib Kdm Kai-ta’, or, in
Kanarese, Janupakdr, i.e., “ the benefi-
cent lord." He died in 1837 at the age
of 70, and his son also. His grandson,
Shev Gharam Mudeliar, is now in pos-
session of the family Jagir. A com-
fortably furnished bangle is maintained
on the island, and eve European en-
tleman is received an entertaine by
the Jégirdar, who holds his fief by this
truly Oriental tenure. The approach to
the island from the Bengaliir side is very
picturesque. Around are loft hills
thickly wooded, where the trave er may
enjoy excellent tiger shooting. Several
gigantic skins are shewn in the bangla,
of tigers killed by the J agirdar in the
vicinity. The bridge on this side is
1,000 ft. long and 13 broad. The pillars
are of granite, 400 in number, and 20 ft.
high. At the extremity are two ele-
phants carved in stone on pedestals.
The whole expense of this bridge was
20,000 rupees. During the season
the river falls so low that this great work
thrown across it appears to be one of a
somewhat redundant labour and ex-
pense. Nevertheless, evcn when lowest,
the current of the stream is strong, and
it brawls angrily along among the rocks ;
and there are, besides, so many deep
holes and pools that it is highly dan-
gerous to ford. In the rains it is a
furious torrent. The island at the upper
or W. end, at Satyagala, is not much
raised above the channel of the river, but
maintains the same level at the other
extremity, while the bed of the river falls
prodigiously. Conseguently the lower
or E. end of the islan appears very high
ground. The N. branch of the river is
the most considerable, and soon divides
into two channels, which form a smaller
island named Nellaganatitu. The Fall
on this side is called Gangana Chuki,
from a place on the large island, about
three miles from its up er end. This Fall
is 460 ft. in height. he stream rushes
with vast rapidity among huge rocks
until it reaches Gangana Chuki, where
it plunges ith a thundering noise into
the abyss, not, however, in unbroken
volume, but divided, first by a small
island and then by several black, beetling
rocks. A cloud of vapor rises from the
pool beneath, and hides it from the view,
and this mist is visible at Satyagala.
The broken woody banks, the immense
slippery rocks from which one gazes
dizzily on the cataract, the thundering
roar of the water, the volumes of mist,
and the rainbow glittering over the dark
gulf, like hope spannin the grave, are
things not to be paintc in words. Be-
side this fall is a small mosque cared for
by a few Mnhammadan fakfrs, who
show the tomb of Pir Qhaib, an imagi-
na saint, whose lace of sepultiire is
sai to have been discovered 700 years
ago. There is also a chawadi here, and
some Hindfi ascetics live near it. The
S.E. Fall exceeds the other in beauty,
though it is less grand, being only 370
ft. in height, while the stream is smaller
and less impetuous. It is called the Fall
of Birra Chuki. After descending many
steps the traveller reaches the rocky bed
of the river, and near him falls a shining
wreath of water, from which the spray
drifts away in light clouds. A black
mass of rock hides the basin which re-
ceives this cascade, while beyond, another
cascade half appears among the trees and
erags; and, still further, three distinct
sheets of water reach the pool in un-
broken descent. Such is the appearance
in the dry season ; in the rains, of course,
the scene gains in grandeur. It is to be
regretted that the place is very un-
health . Three times the little colony
lante by the J agirdar perished from
ever and other ailments. Since then,
however, the jungle has been to a con-
siderable extent eleared away. Indeed,
further clearance might add to the salu-


224
Sect. III.
ROUTE 48.——UTAKAMAND TO HONA\VAB—~HARIHAB..
brity), but would undoubtedly diminish
the eaut of the spot.
From hiva Samudram, a road, good
in dry weather, but impassable for carts
in the rains, leads to the small town and
fort of Malawali, which is also called
Munawali. Thence to Niralitr, “water-
town," the road deteriorates, and in the
next stage, to the large town and fort of
0/iinnapatanam, passes throu h a succes-
sion of swamps and paddy fiel s. Ulosepét
is a large place, Biddadi a middling vil-
lage, and Kingdri a still lar er one.
Ben aliir has been alrea y fully de-
scribe . (Vida Route 42). Thence to
Tumkitr there is no place of importance.
This is a large town, the capital of the
division of the same name, and where
the Superintendent resides. The other
places to Sfra are unimportant.
(e) 8z'ra.—Sz'ra is the capital of the
division, and was at one time the
scat of a considerable provincial go-
vernment. It was conquered b Ran
Dhula flan, the General o the
Vijayapur monarch, in 1644, and con-
ferred in Jfigir on Shahji, the father of
the great Sivajf. In 1761 it was con-
ferred by Basalat Jang on Haidar ’Ali,
and several times taken and retaken in
his wars with the Mai-athas. At one
time it is said to have had 50,000 houses,
but this, no doubt, is a gross exaggera-
tion. Tipii demolished a great part of
it, and conveyed the inhabitants to Shah
Ganjan, a suburb of Seringapatam.
After his death it somewhat recovered.
The soil about Sira contains salt, and is
therefore favorable to the growth of
cocoa-nut trees, which grow luxuriantly
in the surrounding valleys.
/fj Hariiir. — Hariiir is a cou-
sidcrable place and chief town of the
division, with a large fort. There
is ood fishing and bathing in the
Va wati, a clear stream close by.
After leaving this place, the Hugri
river is crossed by a bridge with 15
arches. At Ag/amangalam there is a
lar e fort, now deserted.
§g) 0.'n'tradurg.-0ln'tradur_q (Chit-
tle roog),—Oln'tra, “wonderful,” durg,
“fort,” not "spotted fort,” as in
Hamilton and Buchanan,—also called
by the natives Chatrakal, “umbrella

rock," is a large town, capital of the
division, with a strong fort, the im ort-
ance of which was overrated b iiipfi
and the other native chiefs ough
whose hands it passed, who regarded it
as almost impregnable. Tfpii was wont
to deposit his treasure and valuables
here on emergency. It cannot, however,
be denied that it is one of the strongest
fortresses in S. India. It is built on a
low rocky hill, one of a number of such
emincnces which surround the town.
According to the usual style of Indian
fortified rocks, it is girdled by several
walls, one within the other; and it is,
moreover, divided into an upper and
lower fort; nor would the capture of the
lower much assist operations against the
far stronger works of the summit. It
is remarkable for a memorable defence
made by its Pale ax, or Chief, against
Haidar m 1777. he garrison, day after
day, after completing the worship o Kali,
the Indian Hecate, whose tem le stands
on the summit, made furious s 'es upon
the besiegers to brin in heads to offer
to their Deity. e advance of a
Maratha army compelled Haidar to raise
the siege, thou h next year he made
himself master o the placeb treachery,
and he then found upwar of 2,000
heads of his own soldiers stuck round
the temple as offerings. This fortress
connects the great S. line of defence,
extending from Madras to the Malabar
coast, with the advanced line of forti-
fications in the Balaghat ceded districts.
The three next stations are unim-
portant. Devdngiri is a large town,
the capital of a division.
(Ii) Harilzar (Hurryhur), (Hari, “a
name of Vishnu,” Hera, “a name
of Shiva”), so called from a temple
dedicated to Vishnu and Shiva, with
an idol which combines the symbols
of both the gods, is a military can-
tonment, where a native corps is sta-
tioned. It is situated on a wide plain,
about 1,600 yds. from the right bank of
the Tunga Bhadra river, at an elevation
of about 1,900 ft. above the sea, which
is distant 90 miles at the nearest point
on the Malabar coast. The climate is
pleasantly cool during the greater part
of the year, the hot weather being con-


Madras.
225
ROUTE 48.—UTAKAMAN1'.\ T0 IION.§WAR@-HARIHAH.
fined to Ma and J unc, previous to the
setting in 0 the S.\V. monsoon. After
the fall of Vijayanagar, Harihar became
subject to the ’Ald.il Shahi d nast , and
was conferred in Jagir on hir _han,
who built the fort. lt was next cou-
quered by the forces of Aurangzib, and
again wrested from the Delhi Emperors
by the Ikeri Rsjas, who were expelled
by the Marathas. Finally, Haidar got
possession of it, and though it was three
times retaken by the Marathas he suc-
ceeded in recovering it.
Leaving Harihar for Honawar, the
traveller comes to no station of im-
portance till he reaches Soruba, which
is a considerable place, and the chief
town of the division.
(i) The Falls of Gert-eppa.—The next
locality of interest is the Great Cataract
of Gerseppa. The hamlet near the Falls
is called Jog or Kiirkfmi. The tra-
veller's bangle. is about one mile and
a quarter from the Falls. It is small
but comfortable, and beautifully situated
amid park-like glades. From the win-
dow of the bangle herds of wild bison
may sometimes be seen grazing, and the
woods around are frequently tenanted
by tigers, bears, leopards, and other
game. The sportsman could hardly
find a more delightful sejour, and the
most phlegmatic person cannot but have
bis enthusiasm somewhat kindled by the
scenery. After a short walk through a
beautiful wood, the sound of rushing
waters breaks upon the ear; and as one
descends the last slope to the bed of the
river fitful gleams of silvery light, burst-
ing forth from the dark masses of rock,
announce the Cataracts. During the
rains it would be difficult, perhaps, to
approach so as to gain a complete view.
But, at other seasons, after crossing some
50 ft. of the rock bed of the river, the
traveller comes ull on a tremendous
gulf, a chasm such as we might suppose
opened beneath the rebellious angels,
which, opening wide,
Boll’d inward. and a spacious gap disclosed
Into the wasteful deep; the monstrous sight
Struck them with horror backwards.
On three sides descend the sheets of
silvery foam with stunning roar, and
shoot like rockets down an unbroken


fall of near a thousand feet, where, in
the gulf below, an unfathomable pool
receives them. Sitting on the edge of
the rccipice one could gaze for ever at
the ustrous waters as they hasten on
pinions of light to the depth beneath.
l‘he river is called by various names,
but the Kural is the most common. Its
bed is here about 600 ft. across, of late-
rite mixed with mica and fels ar, worn
and riven by the violence of t e stream
into innumerable fantastic shapes. In
one place there appears a succession of
waves of stone, and in another rocks are
piled on rocks in erfect chaos, while
some again are s apen into hollow
cylinders, in which the stream boils and
bubbles as in a cauldron.
There are in all four Falls, which
have been called the Great Fall, the
Roarer, the Rocket, and the Dame
Blanche. In the first of these, the
water, in considerable volume, leaps
sheer down a height of 890 ft. mea-
sured by line, and falls into a pool
350 ft. deep. The spectator may stand,
or lie flat should he prefer the safer
position, looking sheer down into this
abyss, and what with the awful pro-
fundity of the gulf, the stunning roar
of the cataract, and the wildness of the
scenery around, the view is really ter-
rific. Viewed from below, and at some
distance, this Fall appears one slender
and lovely stem of light, and contrasts
with mag1cal effect with the next Fall,
the Roarer. Here a far larger body
of water rushes with less abruptness,
foaming down a tortuous channel into
a cavern or cup, which turns it into
the bed below. The name given to the
next Fall, the Rocket, is very appro-
priate. It continually shoots out in ‘ets
of foam, which burst like fire-roe ets
into showers of glittering dro . The
Dame Blanche comes down l e liquid
silk or a stream of feathers. It is ex-
quisitely beautiful, but, from above,
seems quite gentle as com ared with
the other three. The gui es conduct
the traveller to three points to view
the Falls from above, all well chosen,
and it is difficult to say which surpasses
the other. After satisfying himself, if
that be possible, with gazing from above,


226
Sect. III.
nourn 48.—-UTAKAMAND ro noimiwsn-—noiv.iw.iB.
the traveller may descend into the valley.
He will, however, be prepared for con-
siderable exertion, as the rocky bed of
the river is rugged and slippery, and the
descent is both steep and circuitous. It
will perhaps, too, be as well for him to
carry a gun, as on one occasion a party
above saw a friend, who had preceded
them in the descent, standing in dange-
rous proximity to a royal tiger, who lay
unobserved by him among the bushes;
and, being probably gorged by a recent
meal, made no attempt to spring. Bears,
too, are very numerous, and are often
prowling about in quest of the honey
made by the bees in the cliffs around.
After crossin the bed of the river, a
wood is pass , and some steps are
reached cut in the rock by a Raja
about 40 years ago. Half-way down
there are several beautiful views of the
Falls, until, at the bottom you include
them all in one coup d’aeil. The ma-
jority of visitors, however, will no doubt
give the preference to the views from
above, which have more of awful gran-
deur, associated with a feeling of cr-
sonal insecurity to the spectator, w 'ch
prodigiousl increases our sense of the
sublime. he valley mi ht open a wide
field for speculation to t e geologist as
to the ori n of the chasm, whether he
should re er it to some great convulsion
of nature or to the slow process of attri-
tion through infinite ages. Enormous
masses of rock are still from time to time
detached from the cliffs and strew the
valley below. The mist from the waters
ascends through the air like the steam
of a great cauldron. Innumerablc
pigeons circle over the Falls, and, as
the sun declines, the cataracts are par-
tially lighted up by a bright rainbow.
The visitor may return from the river
with the most complete certainty that
he has beheld in this Niagara of the
East a scene second to none of its kind
in the world. These wonderful Falls
were first discovered by a Mr. Campbell
about 35 years ago, and even to this day
have not been much visited b Euro-
peans, not, indeed, at all as t ey de-
serve. Bishop Spenser, however, speaks
of them with admiration, and declares
mat he never saw in Switzerland or
for the produce of this
elsewhere anything to be compared to
them.
The road from the Falls to the village
Geraeppa (or Gairsoppah) is a mere path
for Brinjari bulloeks, which bring up
cocoa-nuts from the coast, and return
laden with rice. It may be said to com-
rise every difliculty possible to roads,
eing narrow, rough, swampy, a per-
petual series of ascents and descents;
in short, a mountain gully, full of rocks,
pebbles, and twistiugs. Add to this, it
passes through a dense 'ungle infested
with wild beasts. On the other hand,
the rays of the sun are eom(pletely warded
off by the branches; an the lover of
sport may often get a shot at the jungle
fowl, peacocks, and spur fowl, which are
here in great abundance, and may be
seen at every glade, showing not much
fear of man. The monkeys are very
numerous. There is a very small bangle
at Gerseppa, which centuries ago was a
place of im ortance. Mounds of ruins
are still to e seen in the vicinity, now
so thickly covered with trees and under-
wood that it requires a spade to con-
vince an unbeliever that they are really
the débrir of houses. At Gerseppa it is
best to take a boat and proceed by water
to Honiiwar. The banks of the river
are marked by patches of cultivation,
and a tiny village here and there.
Alligators are ver numerous on the
banks, and may ord some diversion
and employment for the rifle.
(j) Hondwar. — Hondwar (Honors)
is, or rather has been, a good outlet
part of N.
Kanara. The Gerse pa or Shiravati
river flowing towai s it is met by
an inlet of the sea, forming a salt-
water lake seven miles in length from
S.E. to N.W., and three miles in
its greatest breadth. This lake con-
tains several islands, and abounds with
fish. Honawar is situated on the N.
side of it. It is the chief town of a
sub-division, and is a civil and detach-
ment station. It contains about 12,000
inhabitants. On account of the pepper
grown in the surrounding country, a
small Factory containing 18 persons
was established here by the English at
a very early period after their arrival


AMadras.
227
RoUTE 49.—PoNANI To HONAwAR.
the water flows out with great violence,
and, being hemmed in by the sand, rises
in huge billows, with a noise that may
be heard a great distance off. The cur-
rent runs out with the force of the Bore
in the Ganges; and, even, without a
breath of wind, the sea all around is
white with foam, and as agitated as if a
furious tempest were blowing. . Many
native vessels that have anchored under
such circumstances have been dashed to
pieces and every soul has perished, for
the water shoals many foet in an hour;
and in such a sea, if a vessel strikes, it
goes to pieces in a moment.
ROUTE 49.
PoNANI To HoNAwAR, BY KolIKoD
(CALICUT), KoilAND1 (QUILANDY),
TELLICHERI, KANANúR (£
AND MANGALöR (MANGALORE), 177M.
3 F.; To HoNAwAR, 291 M. 0# F.
MILITARY AUTHORITY-Officer com-
manding Malabar and Kanara-Kana-
nur, under officer commanding Maisür
division—Bengalur.
CIVIL AUTHORITY - Collector
Kanara—Mangalur.
PLACES.
M
From TRIVANDERAM
to PONANI
x a backwater...
KUTWOI ... 4
Parwanni, b...... 4
TANUR, b. t. o............. 5
Kaitukalpalli ............... 2
3
3
2
of
STAGES.
F. M. F.
1950
:
in India, but after a short time it came
to a melancholy end. About the year
1670, the Chief procured a fine bull-
dog from the Captain of an English
vessel which had come there to take in
cargo. This animal, when accompany-
ing the Factors on an excursion, seized
a sacred cow in the neighbourhood of a
Hindu temple, and killed her. Insti-
gated by the brâhmans, the natives were
resolved to revenge this injury to their
prejudices, and in a fury of fanaticism
murdered every Englishman. Some
natives, more friendly than the rest,
caused a large grave to be dug, and
in it eighteen victims were interred.
The chief of the Factory at Karwar
sent a monumental stone, on which was
engraved the story of their wretched
fate. There were recorded the names
of John Best and seventeen other
Englishmen, who, according to the
epitaph, “were sacrificed to the fury
of a mad priesthood, and , an en-
raged mob.” In the time of Haidar
there was a considerable trade in pepper
and sandal wood from this place, and
that Prince established at it a dock for
building ships of war. In the time of
Buchanan (1800) the wrecks of some of
these vessels remained in the lake, hav-
ing been sunk # the British troops
when they carried the fort by assault.
So early as 1569 we hear of Honawar
as a rich and beautiful city, with a fort,
belonging to the Queen of Gerseppa;
and the Portuguese at that time plun-
dered and burnt it, but shortly after
fortified and garrisoned it anew. It
then fell into #. hands of the Rājās of
Bednár, and next passed with their
other possessions to Haidar. In 1783
it was taken by the forces under General
Matthews, but restored next year to
Tip6 by the treaty of Mangalir. The
commerce of Honăwar would, under any
circumstances, be most seriously impaired
by the dangers of its bar. A spit of
sand has formed across the mouth of the
khdrí or creek, and is continually in-
creasing. There is in consequence a
surf here at all times, but in rough wea-
ther it becomes impassable. Even in
the calmest season, at spring tides, there
is great danger. When the tide ebbs,
x 3 m. to Parpanādu ......
Kadalwandi.......... •
x r. to CHALIAM .....
(a) x a backwater to
Bépur, b, .................. 1
Tiruvanür-ambalam ......
(b) x r. to KOLIKOD
(CALICUT), b. p. o. ...
Putúr ..... • * * * * * * * * * * *
YELLATUR ...............
Korapoyé r. to Pengaldesam
Tiruwanar .................. 1
Chamancheri ........ .... 2
KOILANDI(QUILANDY)
0, t. 9...................... 2
1
l
12 6
7 2
8 3
7 0
:
Polakeri ....


D-mm
228 RouTE 49.— PoNKNI To HoNAwAR.
PLACES. STAGES PLACES.
M. F. M. F.
Pormalla............ •- 1 2 x r. to Mogsäl...............
Palür 1 4 Kannipura, b, ....... -
TIKODI .............. ... 1 0 7 0 | x r. to KUMBLAH, b. t. o.
Kannang Kolangaré ...... 2 2 x r. to Arruka...............
Ivnikád ................. ... 04 x 2 n. to Iylah ............
otekal Angadi ............ 1 6 Upala ........................
x Murata r. to Pudu-pan- x r. and n. to MANJESH-
Ilam ........... - - - - - - .... 1 2 WARAM, b. t. o..........
Karumbanaikal ............ 0 6 Wudiawar ..... • * - - - - - - - - - - -
WADDAKARRE', b. t. o. 1 2 7 6 | x r. to Uchal ...
CHOMBE PERAMBA.. 7 0 7 0 | Someshwaram ...
(c) x_MAHE r, to Ulal........... • - - - - -
(d) TELLICHERI, b.t.o. 70 7 0 | Netrawati r., l.b. .........
Koduwalli .................. 1 4 Ditto, r. b. ..... • * * * * * * * * * * * *
x 2 saltwater n. to Dhar- f) MANGALUR, b. p.o.
mapatnam ............... 1 4 to INFANTRY BAR-
x saltwater r. to Maipal- RACKS ..................
angăd ..................... 2 0
Yeddakād .................. 3 0
(e) Road to KODALLI, x r. to Polár ...............
KANANUR (CANNA- Paddangúr .
NORE), b. p. o. ......... 5 1 13 1 | Púsūdi............ -
Serkal, t. o. .......... ... 2 SURATKAL, b.............
Baliapatnam ............... 1 x broad r. to MULKI,
x r. 2 furlongs broad to b. * 0. .............. •- - - -
Pápancheri ............... 2 x broad r. to Paddibiddiri
Kannaveram 1 x n. to Yerrumāl ..... • * * *
x n. to Cherukunam ...... 2 x n. to KAP and ESTA-
x small r. to PALLA MADI, b................. •
ANGADI, b, ............ 13 5 | x n. to Kattapädi........
x n. to Kuluwel.
Kunjimangalam .
Yerrayattu .......... • *-
x r. to Pyandr ............
x r. to KAUWAI, b. t. o.
x a broad r. to Panderan-
dunadu.....................
KATKACHERI, b.
Tirrittinādu............
Puniai .......... • * *
WOSADURGAM, b. t. o.
PUDUKOTE'............
Ajamir................ • • •
Chittāri ...............
x r. to Puchakád .
BAIKAL, b, ...... • * *
x r. to Kodikalla ...
x r. to Kaddanādu...
:::
|
10 2
9 6
7 6
7 2
Chandragadi ...............
x broad r. to KASER-
GOD, b. t. o. ... • * *
X n. to Kaūgoli.
Futur ....................... :
2
2
1
8 4
(g) x broad r. to UDAPI,
b. * 0. .....................
x n. to Kalyanpurah .....:
Twice x r. to £i
Angadi.....................
BRAHMAWARA, b.......
x r. to Gandama Angadi.
KOTA........................
Kolūstia Angadi............
Koteshwaram ...............
(h) KHUNDAPUR, b.t.o.
x Garget r. to Gangalli...
+ "....................... • • -
KARMUNESHWAR, b.
x narrow and deep r.......
Kanchigaur..................
(i) x r. to BEDNUR, b.t.o
An old Fort................. •
A steep Ghât ...............
Encamping Ground
X 7?.....
Sect. III.
STAGES.
M. F. M. F.
:
||
8
7
8
O


-—-=mm-
Madras.
PLACES. STAGES.
M. F. M. F.
BATKAL, b. t. o.......... 2 3# 13 2}
Encamping Ground ...... 0.6%
x r. not fordable ......... 4 1}
MURDESHWAR, b.t.o. 3 2} 8 2}
Encamping Ground ..... . 304
MONKE''........ ......... 57# 90
A steep pass, ascend and
descend.................. 0 24
Encamping Ground ... .. 4 3
x Shiravati r. to HONA-
WAR, b, t, 0,............ 1 7 6 4+
291 04
(a) Bépur. — Bépur '' s Wai-
pura) in lat. 11° 10', long. 75° 5'1',
is a seaport with about 1,000 in-
habitants, on the N. side of the
Sharapoya or Bépur river, which flows
from the W. Ghats. Tipu called it
Sultânpatanam, “City of the Sultan,”
and intended to have made it a flourish-
ing commercial town. A vast quantity
of teak is floated down to this place
for exportation. Wessels drawing 14
feet of water may, when the tide is
high, be floated over the bar with casks,
and there is a good depth of water
within. An attempt was made to build
ships of war at this place, but the bar
proved an insuperable obstacle. Another
project for saw-mills also failed, the
wind being so often lulled. Iron ore is
very abundant and rich, and the natives
have long been in the habit of smelting
it. Induced by this abundance, the
Porto Novo Iron Company established
works here, and sent out steam engines;
but a want of coal has hitherto proved a
great impediment to success. The wood
fuel, it is true, is plentiful, but it has
many disadvantages, and enormous stores
are required, which are liable to be de-
stroy # fire, or injured by the heavy
rains. The Company, however, have
been encouraged lately by purchases
of their iron for the gun carriage de-
partment; and favorable reports of its
uality have been transmitted home. As
the terminus of the Madras Railway,
Bépur must become a place of import-
ance. .
About five miles to the E. of Bépur
RoUTE 49.—PoNANI To HoNKwAR-BéPUR.
229
is a hill, which rises abruptly from the
S. bank of the Bépur river, called
Chataperambah (chatam, in Malayalam,
“death,” peramba, “field:” “field of
death”). This hill deserves to be visited,
as no place in Malabar contains in
greater numbers or better preservation
the remarkable sepulchres called Kodé
kals (kodé, in Malayalam, “umbrella,”
kal, “stone”), whose history is veiled
in the remotest antiquity. These tombs
are to be found in many places both on
the E. and on the W. of the Ghats, and
in particular there are two very remark-
able specimens to the E. of the village,
called Paddi Angadi, on the high road
to Palghat. It will suffice, however, to
describe those at Chataperambah, accord-
ing to the account of Mr. J. Babington
(“Transactions of the Literary Society
of Bombay,” vol. iii., p. 324). First,
as to the name: the tombs are called
Kodé kals, “umbrella stones,” or Topi
kals, “hat stones,” from a circular
stone like the top of a mushroom placed
on some upright stones, resembling the
stem of that fungus, which marks the
locality of these ancient burial places.
According to Babington, however, the
Topi is the space between the circular
top stone and a cavity over which the
Kode kal is erected, and in which bones
and ornaments are found. In that case
the word is Drávidian, and signifies
“place.” A third name is Pandu kulis,
“the Pándu laborers,” from the fact
that these works are ascribed by the
natives to the Pandu princes during
their exile.
The soil of the hills on which these
tombs are found is generally a red
vel with a substratum of laterite.
ere the soil is of considerable depth,
there is generally only a large earthern
vessel, shaped like some of the Etruscan
vases, deposited in a cavity, with a few
steps down to it, and a ledge of rock on
which are placed small earthern vessels,
arms, etc. The whole is covered with
the large circular stone shaped like the
top of a mushroom, as above-mentioned,
and this, not having a stem of upright
stones, might be passed by one ignorant
of such depositories without attracting
any notice. According to Mr. Babing-


230
Sect. III.
nourn 49.-—r0NA1vI T0 no1~r.{wAn—xoL1Kon.
ton, the lrals which have upright stones
set up to support the circular stone
never contain anythi , while the others
are as uniformly foun to be filled with
relies and with bones, which, on being
exposed to the air, crumble into dust.
The relies consist of vases, tripods,
lamps, rosaries, tridents, and other iron
instruments, such as spears, swords,
knives, axes.
Amongst the native legends regarding
these tombs, Mr. Babington tells us of one
“that at some very early riod of the
world men did not die, ut after in-
creasing in stature dually for a num-
ber of years, they windled to pygmies
of a few inches in length, when they
ceased to eat and drink, or to perform
most of the other functions of animal
life, and were in this state of doubtful
existence inclosed in these tombs, with
the implements and arms they had used
when in the enjoyment of their faculties !
Absurd as this account is, it is not more
improbable than various others which
are current, of the origin and use of
the Kodey Kulls. A very fine owder
or sand is found generally at the ottom
of the ehatties, most probably the re-
mains of animal matter from the dead
bodies or bones placed in them. It is
shining, and appears mixed with minute
particles of mica: which perhaps has
given rise to the idea generally enter-
tained, that this substance is pure gold
when in the cave unexpose to the
light; but, throu h the agency of spirits,
becomes sand w en viewed by mortal
e e l”
yBurial places of a similar character
are also found so far to the E. of the
Ghats as Chittfrr, and have been already
noticed in the description of that place
(Route 9, p. 46). _
After leaving Bépur, it rs necessary
to cross in a boat a very rapid and difii-
cult river. A regiment can be ferried
over in 40 minutes.
(b) Kali/cod. —Kol|'kod or Kalikod
(C'al1'¢.-at) in lat. 11° 15’, long. 76°
50', is a town with 15,000 inhabi-
tants, of whom 4,000 are Portuguese,
and of the rest two-thirds Muham-
madans, chiefly M-apillas (Mo lahs).
The name is said to be derive from

Kolikodu, “ cock-crowin ,” because
Cheruman, when he divi ed Malabar
among the ancestors of the resent
chieftains, had nothing left to tow
on the Tamuri. Whereupon, he gave
his sword to that chief “with all the
territory in which a cock, crowing at a
small temple here, could be heard. This
formed the original dominions of the
Tamurin, and was called Kolikodu, or
the cock-erowing.”—(See Buchanan’s
Mysore, ii, 474.) The town is but little
above the level of the sea, but is both
healthy and picturesque. It consists of
one long street, about three-quarters of
a mile in extent, with numerous small
cross streets leading from it. To the S.
stretching to the river, is the Mapilla
quarter, where are many mosques. On
the N .W. is the Portuguese quarter, in
which the houses are of a superior de-
scription. There is here a Roman
Catholic Church and a large tank. In
the same direction are the Collector-’s
ofiiee, and the lines and parade ground
of a detachment of Native Infantry.
The jail is also in the Portuguese
quarter. It is an oblong building, en-
closed by a double wall, and at each
corner are watch towers, which commu-
nicate with each other, and completely
overlook the interior. There is room
for 600 prisoners. To the N. of the jail
is the English burial ground. Facing
the sea are the houses of the European
gentry and the custom-house. The
chief su ply of drinking water is from
a beauti ul tank towards the E. portion
of the town. It is 200 yds. square, and
is built of hard laterite. The houses
are built chiefly of laterite, and are
some thatched, others tiled. The town
is well drained, and the sewers are of
stone, but open at the top, except where
they pass through thorou hfares. There
is a great appearance o neatness and
comfort in the houses even of the very
poor about this locality, and the cer-
tainly contrast advantageously wit the
abodes of the same class in any other
nation.
Kolikod is famous as the first place in
India touched at by a European navi-
gator. Here, on the 11th of May, 1498,
arrived the adventurous Vaseo de Gama,


Madras.
231
ROUTE 49.—PONr'1NI TO IION.l\VAR—-KOLIKOD.
ten months and two days after his de-
parture from Lisbon. It then contained
many noble buildings, especially a Brah-
man temple said to have been not in-
ferior to the greatest monastery in
Portugal. Tradition says that the ocean
overw elmed a great art of the city,
and the boatmen of t e place declare
that they can see the remains of build-
ings a considerable way out at low tide.
It is certain that either rocks or build-
in s cause breakers in the said spot.
e may with more reason attribute the
decline of Kolikod to various wars in
which it sulfered greatly; and to the
extinction of the power of the native
Rajé, the Tamurin called Zamor-in by
European writers. This Prince once
ruled over an extensive territory, but
his successors are now stipendiaries of
the English Government. In 1509 the
Marechal of Portugal, Don Fernando
Coutinho, made an attack on Kolikod
with 3,000 men, but was himself slain
and his forces repulsed with great loss.
In 1510, Albu uer ue landed, burnt the
town and plun ere the palace, but was
eventually put to flight, and was obliged
to sail away with great loss. In 1513,
the Raja concluded a peace with the
Portuguese, and permitted them to build
a fortified factory. In 1616, an English
factory was established at Kolikod. In
1766, Haidar ’Ali invaded the country,
and the Raja, finding that his offers of
submission would be 111 vain, barricaded
himself in his palace, and, settin fire
to it, perished in the flames. _ aidar
was soon called oif to the war in Arcot,
and the territory of the Raja of Kolikod
revolted, but was re-conquered in 1773
by the Maisiireans. In 1782, the vic-
tors were expelled by the English, and
in 1789 Tipu again overran the countlry,
and laid it waste with fire and swo .
Many women were hanged with their
infants round their necks—-others were
trampled under the feetof elephants. The
cocoa nut and sandal treeswere cut down,
and the plantations of pepper were torn
up by the roots. The town was almost
entirely demolished, and the materials
carried to Ncllur, six miles to the S.E., to
build 8 fort and town called Farragu-
dbdd, “ Fortunate City." The next year,

however, Ti fi's General was totally
defeated an taken risoner with 900
of his men, by the ritish, at the so-
called “Fortlmate City ;” and in 1792,
the whole territory was ceded to the
English Government. Since that time
the country has gradually recovered it-
self. According to a recent traveller
(Graul), Kolikod was built about 1300
A n. According to the same authority,
two pillars of the old palace in which
De Gama was received, still remain, as
well as a. portico and some traces of a
terrace, and houses for brahmans. It
is said the Portuguese leader knelt down
on his way to some Hindu idols, taking
them for distorted images of Catholic
saints. “ Perhaps they ma be devils,”
said one of the sailors. “ 1 0 matter,"
said another, “ I kneel before them and
worship the true God.” The noble
avenue which leads to the ruins of the
old palace leads also to the new, which
is a low tasteless building. Not far off
is an island between the Kali river and
an arm of the Bépur river, from which
the Raja used to come to his coronation.
Before the bridge a Ma illa. woman then
spread a carpet, on whie the Raja seated
himself and ave her two pieces of gold.
This custom ad its origin from the fact
of a Raja of Kolikod having been har-
bored b a Mapilla woman when his life
was in anger. The French have still
a lodge at Kolikod, in which is one
solitary watchman. Cotton cloth origi-
nally imported from this town derives
from it its name of Calico.
A good road leads from Kolikod
through the small village of Yellatizr,
for about half a mile of the way to-
wards Koilandi, when it becomes ve
sandy. The Korapayé river is broa ,
and it takes a regiment forty minutes
to cross. The road continues sandy for
five or six miles beyond the hamlet of
Tikodi. Both Koilandi and 7Vadda/carré
(this word means perhaps “N. shore"),
have about 500 houses. It takes a regi-
ment half-an-hour to cross the Murata
river. Those who go by sea from Koli-
kod to Mahé pass Sacrifice Rock, a rock
so called from the massacre of an Eng-
lish crew there b pirates, in the be-
ginning of the 17t century. The rock


232
Sect. III;
noorr: 49.—PoN.in1 ro n01v,iwsa—rELLrcni-zni.
is further remarkable for the nests of
the hirundo nidis edulibus, of which the
Chinese birds’-nest soup is made. These
nests are three or four inches in circum-
ference, and one in depth, and are made
either of the spawn of fish, or of a glu-
tinous frothy seum which the sea leaves
on the rock. Forbes tells us that the
newest and most transparent nests were,
in his time, purchased by the Chinese at
five or six dollars the pound.
By going to Ohombé Peru/mba the tra-
veller avoids the French settlement at
Mahé, leaving it to the W.; but as
Mahé is really a pretty lace, the route
by it will probabl be pre erred. The dis-
tance fromWada aré to Mahé is 8m. 3f.,
and from Mahé to Tellicheri, 4 m. 3 f.
(0) Mahé.—Mahé, from Skr. Mahi, “a
fis ,” in lat. 11° 42’, lon . 75° 36', is a
charming little town, wit a population
of 2,616 souls, and a dependent territory
of two square miles, belonging to the
French. A recent traveller says, “ One
cannot help feeling a soothing, peaceful,
happy sensation, when the eye rests
upon Mahé with its neatest of all neat
dwellings, emhosomed in the darkest,
richest green, and its air of perfect
cleanliness and comfort.”
Mahé is finely situated on high ground
overlooking the river, which runs to the
N. of it into the sea. Rocks close the
entrance of this river, but it is deep,
and art could doubtless remove these
obstacles. At present only small craft
can pass the bar in safety, and that
only in fair weather; but the river is
navigable for boats to a considerable
distance inland. On a high hill some
way oif is seen the White MlSSl0D House
of the Basle missionaries at Chombala.
From this hill there is a beautiful view
of the wooded mountains of Waindd.
Hamilton, speakin of the superior site
of Mahé to that o the English settle-
ment of Tellicheri, remarks, “Generally
all the spots selected by the French for
the establishment of their factories in
India, were, in point of local circum-
stances and geographical situation, much
superior to those chosen by the English.
The English appear to have been in-
fluencediliy the temporary resort of com-
merce, while the French were guided by

more enlarged views, which to them,
however, never had any beneficial re-
sult.” The Frenoh settlement at Mahé
dates from 1722, but it was taken by the
English under Major Hector Munro in
1761. The peace of Paris, in 1763,
gave it back to the French, but it was
retaken b the English in 1779, and
dismantle and formally taken oases-
sion of by them in 1793. The ritish
establishment at Tellieheri then moved
to Mahé; but the place being finally
restored to the French at the general
pacification in 1816, the English ofiieials
returned to Tellicheri.
‘(gel TeIlicheri.—TeZlz'cheri, perhaps
“ ite Village,” said by Hamilton to
be properly Tali Chars‘, and written
b Graul Talaitcheri, is a town with
a out 20,000 inhabitants. It lies low,
picturesque, bein
yet the situation is
'11s, intersperse
acked by wooded
with valleys and watered by a fine
river. It is considered very healthy;
Forbes calls it the Montpelier of
India; but delicate Europeans suffer
from the dampness of the climate. At
about 614 yards from the shore there
is a reef of rocks, extending 472 yards
in length, which forms a natural break-
water. Within there is sutficient depth
of water for a ship of 600 tons to ride at
anchor. As the wind and current pre-
vail very much from the N .\V. during
what is called the S.W. monsoon, the
water is not so smooth upon the beach
immediately opposite this reef as it is a
little to the S. of it. In 1781, H. M.
ship Superb of 74 guns was lost here,
having anchored in 5 or 5} fathoms
water. A heavy sea set in, and the
Superb struck on the anchor of the
Sultan, a ship moored inside of her.
The fort, which Forbes speaks of as
“large and well garrisoned," is built
on a rising ound close to the sea, and
is about 40 . above its level. It is of
an oblong shape, being 117 yards in
length and 34 in breadth; its len th
running parallel to the sea-shore. he
whole of the N .W. side of the citadel is
occupied by a lofty building, the upper
part of which is appropriated to the
Criminal Court and ofiiccs, while the
lower part forms the jail.


Madras.
233
aourn 49.—1>oN.i1n T0 noniwAn—xANAm'IB.
The cardamoms qf Waindd, which are
mostly exported from Tellicheri, are
reckoned the best in the world. This
spice (amomu/m repens) is much esteemed
by Asiatics, who chew it separately, or
with betel. It is also a principal ingre-
dient in their cooke , and is used medi-
cinally as a stomac ic. The plant in
appearance resembles the ginger. It
‘attains the height of two or three feet,
and sometimes more, before it bears
fruit. The blossoms are small, white,
and variegated with purple, but some
have a brownish appearance. They are
succeeded by small green pods, contain-
ing the seeds, which turn to a light
brown when the seed ripens, then ow
black, and acquire the aromatic avor
for which they are so esteemed. The
cardamom is indigenous to many parts of
Malabar, but flourishes most on the side of
moist cool hills, among low trees, bushes,
and springs of water. Though the plant
thrives best in such a situation, it will
grow in other places, and is sometimes
roared in plantain gardens. The carda-
mom hills are generally rivate property.
When the plants are ound the bushes
are cut down, and the shoots attended
to for three years, when they begin to
bear. They produce the best cro s in
the fourth year, after which they egin
to decay. The plants spring u in
the rainy season, and are not s ered
to grow too thickly. The seed ri ens
about the middle of September. he
pods sometimes grow on a high stalk,
ut often in short clusters near the root.
When ripe they are gathered dail , and
dried for sale, otherwise the bir and
squirrels would make sad havoc with
them. Excellent sandal wood is also
exported from Tellicheri. The factory
at Tellicheri, which was established
chiefly for the purchase of epper and
cardamoms, was first opene in 1683,
under orders from the Presidency of
Surat. In 1708, the East India Com-
pany obtained from the Cherical Raja
a grant of the Fort. In 1782, Haidar
’Ali besieged the place, but was com-
pelled by the vigorous sally of the gar-
rison under Major Abington to raise the
sie e.
6) Kanamir.—Kanam2r (Cannanore)

in lat. 11° 52', long. 75° 26', is the
capital of the province of Malabar
and Kanara, and a large military
cantonment. The native town is very
populous, but the exact number of in-
a itants is not known. It is situate
at the bottom of a bay, S.E. of the Can-
tonment. There are many good houses
of Muhammadans, but the streets are
narrow and filthy. The Cantonment is
on a 'utting ortion of land, which forms
the N.W. si e of the bay. Near the end
of this is a promontory, on which stands
the Fort. l‘his, since its acquisition b
the English, has been improved an
strengthened according to regular miles.
The cliffs are from 30 to 50 ft. high
here, with piles of rocky boulders at their
feet, and many a good shi has been
dashed to pieces along their ase. The
bangles of the ofiicers are most of them
built on the edge of these cliffs, and en-
joy a cooling sea breeze. Alittle inland,
and N. of the Fort, are barracks for one
Eu.ropean regiment. The hi h road
from the Fort leads past them to anara,
and a branch road to the town of Kaua-
mir strikes ofl' 'ust abreast of them.
Close to this roa , a little to the E., is
the Mapilla burial ground. Further
inland, and in the centre of the Canton-
ment, are the church, magazine, and
English burial ound, contiguous to
one another. T e Portuguese church
is nearly parallel with the English, but
close to the sea. N. of it, and still closer
to the edge of the cliffs, is the European
regimental hospital. The Sipahi lines
for three regiments are on the extreme
N. verge of the Cantonment; but before
reaching them you pass the Cantonment
bazars, and an old Fort. The climate
of Kanamir is mild, equable, and re-
markably healthy. The town is sur-
rounded by small hills and narrow val-
leys, and is altogether free from any
extensive reservoirs of stagnant water.
Clurnps of cocoa-nut trees form one of
the characteristic features of the place.
In fact, the Cantonment may be said to
be imbedded in a forest of these trees.
Kananfir is a place of great antiquit _
The Portuguese had a Fort here so ear y
as 1505. They were expelled by the
Dutch, who subsequently sold the place


234
Sect. III.
morn 49.—Pom'mI TO I£01v.iwsR—MANeAL1'm.
to a Mapilla family, in which the suc-
cession goes on in the female line. The
territory consists only of the town and
the country for about two miles round,
for which an annual rent of 14,000 rupees
is paid to the Company; but the sove-
reignty of the Lakkadiv islands also be-
longs to the Raja of Kananiir. In
1768, ’Ali Raja, the then rulin chief,
readily submitted to Haidar ’ li, and
'oined him on his invading Malabar.
n the war with Tipii, in 1783, it was
occupied by the English; but, on the
conclusion of peace at Mangalur next
year, it was restored to the Mapilla
chief. It soon, however, fell into
the hands of Tipfi, from whom it
was wrested by General Abercromby,
and since then it has continued to be
the principal British station in Malabar.
The present Rani of Kananfir, Waliya
Bibi, will receive a European visitor at
her palace, which is a large, common-
lookmg house. In the upper suite of
apartments she is accustomed to give
parties, while on the ground floor is a
vast pepper warehouse. The nephew
of the Rani, ‘Ali, has the title of Raja.
He is a short fat person, in appearance
like a common Konkani Muslim. The
family are said to have been originally
Hindus, and to be of great antiquity.
Rumour sa s that they ossess a treasure
buried in the earth. ipu intended to
have laid hands on their wealth, but
they escaped by givin a young and
pretty princess of the amily to Tip1i’s
son. Though of the Shafi’i sect of
Muhammadans, the Ma illa women do
not conceal themselves -om strangers,
and the Rani gives parties to the Euro-
pean gentry, at which she docs not scruple
to be present smoking her hulgkah, and
watching the dance with infinite zest.
The road from Kauamir to Mangalur
is for the most part through dee sand ;
but in some places it is rough an rocky.
Kasergod is a large village, 7Vo.vadurgam
one less considerable; and Kumblah
smaller still. The ban la at Kasergod
is very prettily situate , surrounded by
trees, and with the sea only a few hun-
dred yards distant. The old Fort of
_0Iumdraga¢_iz'_is close to the bangla, and
is worthy avisit. A pretty, well-shaded

road leads from Kasergod to Kumblah.
Manjeshwarmn is a picturesque village,
with a temple of some celebrity. It is
the head quarters of the Konkani Vaish-
navas. The car of the god is a huge
vehicle, 15 feet high, and cost 7,000
rupees. The Raja of Kumblah is roud
of dis layin a very flattering etter
from Eord entinck, also the original
letter from Captain Dirom, confirming
his family in their possessions after the
war with Tipfi. The other Stations are
mere hamlets.
(f) Mangah2r(Mangalore), Skr. Man-
gala, “rejoicing,” air, “ town,” “ Glad-
town,” or, accordin to Graul, from
Mangala Devi, who has a tem le there,
in lat. 12° 52', long. 74° 54', ist e ri.nei-
pal civil and military station in anara,
and has a population of about 20,000
souls. This includes the seven villages
of Bazar, Allawar, N irawalya, Kodial-
bail, Kadre, Mangalfir, and Bolur.
Hamilton tells us that the population
was estimated at 30,000 in 1806, and
has probably greatly increased since.
This is a proof how erroneous mere es-
timates are; for we know, by census,
that the number of inhabitants was only
11,548 in 1836. Graul, however, who
travelled from 1850-1853, makes the
number 40,000. Mangalfir is separated
from the sea by a backwater, formed by
the junction of the Bolfir, called b
some the N etrawati, a large river, whic
rises in the Ghats, and flows in a W.
direction, past Buntwala, a trading place
near the Ghats, whence from 50 to 200
boats, laden with rice, dail start for
Mangalfir; and the Balure,w ich,rising
in the same locality, passes to the coast
by a more N. course. In the rains
these rivers, which flow round two sides
of a peninsula, on which the town and
cantonmcnt of Mangalur stand, brin
down a large quantit of water, an
they are then naviga le for boats of
some burthen, to a considerable distance
inland. In the dry season there is but
little current in either, exce t that
caused by the influence of t e tide,
which flows to about nine or ten miles
from their mouth. The banks of these
rivers—partieularly of the Bolfir—are
high and steep, and, unlike those of


Madras.
235
acorn 49.—PoN.i1vi T0 HoNiiw.\R—MANoAI.iin.
most others in this country—which are
covered with rank vegetation—are,
where the soil permits, planted with
cocoa nut trees, or laid out in gardens
and rice fields. On the cantonment
side of the backwater, immediately
under some high ground, is a level belt
of land surrounding the peninsula, but
little raised above the sea, and varying
in breadth from 100 to 200 yards. At
the S. end it is converted into rice fields,
or thickly planted with cocoa nut trees,
and thence N. along the edge of the
backwater, most of the fishermen
and laborers of the place reside. At
the back of the present landing place,
and on ground contiguous to the said
belt, the eat bazar commences, and
stretches . on the edge of the back-
water about half a mile. It is irregu-
larl built, and though the trade carried
on ere is considerable, there is little
indication of the wealth it may be sup-
posed to possess. In this low site good
water is qplpocurable only in the dry
season. at which is to be had is
always more or less impregnated with
iron from the laterite through which it
pcrcolates. The small tanks in the
neighbourhood are seldom dry, but in
the hot season they become covered
with slimy vegetable matter. The general
appearance of Mangaliir from the sea is
picturesque. The houses are detached,
particularly those towards the N ., on
separate l1lllS, whence an extensive view
is to be had, while the thick woods on
these heights, and intervenin valleys,
add much to the beauty of t e place.
Immediatel beyond the cantonment,
however, t e country alters consider-
ably, the hills attaining a greater eleva-
tion, with a barren and rugged aspect.
\Ve know that Mangalfir has from
ancient times been a place of very great
commerce. Ibn Batuta, in the middle
of the 14th century, speaks of 4,000
Muhammadan merchants as resident
there. Forbes speaks of it, in 1772,
as the rinci al seaport in the domi-
nions ofp Hai r ’Ali, and well situated
for commerce. Moreover, both I;Iaidar’s
and Ti (i’s ships of war were built at
Manga Cir of the fine teak produced on
the slopes of the Ghats. But in the

last 40 ears considerable changes have
taken ace in the harbor, which, com-
merci y, have much injured it. The
harbor was of much eater extent and
depth than now. e old jetty and
stone embankment, raised to prevent the
encroachments of the sea, are now almost
buried in sand, and though the tide
rises 4ft. 5in. on thebar at springs,
the native craft are obliged to anchor
in the narrow channels of the rivers;
and between these and the shore a mud-
flat is now exposed at every ebb-tide.
These changes in the harbour ap ear
to have originated, in the first p ace,
from an opening having been cut by
the natives through a narrow part of
the back sand, to the N. of the present
outlet, to permit the escape of the freshes
in the river, which had caused alarm in
consequence of an unusual rise. The
sea entered the cut, and, besides the
changes alluded to, has formed an ex-
tensive and permanent opening.
The Cantonment is situate on the N.
side of the village of Mangalfiir, properl
so called. The ground is tolerably leve ,
rising gently till it reaches the place of
arms, the centre and highest part.
Thence it slo es on all sides, except
towards the .E., when the elevation
continues till it is lost among the hills.
To the S. of the parade ground, with
merel the high road intervening, are
lines or one regiment of Native Infantry.
The huts are of clay and are thatched
with grass. They he in parallel lines
E. and W. Mangaliir is considered a
health station, and is favorably re-
gardedy by the troops, especially by the
natives.
In the variety of the tribes which
frequent its marts, Mangaliir may be
called a miniature Bombay. Europeans,
Indo-Portuguese, Indo-Britons, Parsfs,
Mughuls, Arabs, Sidis, Koiikanis, Ma-
pillas, Kanarese, and Tamulians jostle
one another in the streets. The mother
language of the place, however, is the
Tuluva, for Mangalfir is the chief town
of the Tuluva country. The Tuluva
language is a dialect of Kanarese, which
approaches closely to the ancient lan-
guage of Halla-Kanada, and bears more
resemblance to the Tamulian than to the


236
Sect. III.
ROUTE 49.—1>0N.iN1 T0 Hoiniwan-iiANsALiiR.
modern dialect. As a sin ar perver-
sion of terms of world-wi e use, it may
be noticed that in Tuluva amma means
“father,” and appa, “ mother."
The 11/fissirm Home at Man alfir is
worth of avisit. Formerly the acheri
or Collector's office occupied the s ot,
but that being burnt down by the re els
in 1837, a new house was erected at the
expense of Mr. Blair, the collector, and
most liberally presented by him to the
Mission. The site is, perhaps, the best
at the station, commanding a fine view
of the sea and surrounding country,
and being considerably elevated above
the camp. The missionaries are Mora-
vians, and indefatigable, excellent men.
They have a school with about 60
scholars. An industrial school is at-
tached, where a watchmakerand typo-
graphic printer give lessons. The out-
break in 1837, alluded to above, was
one of some im ortance. The Mapillas
were as usual oremost in the fra , but
several thousand people assemble also
from Kurg, and cut ofi‘ two companies
of Sipahis. The likewise attacked the
station of Manga fir, and burnt several
of the houses. It is said the authorities
on the spot did not behave well, and
but for the arrival of troops from
Bombay and other stations, the insur-
rection would havc become very for-
midable.
T he Burial Ground at Mangaliir is
neat and well kc t. It is enclosed and
the ate is locke . There is an obelisk
to t e memory of Brigadier-General
Carnac, who died here, aged 84, in 1806.
IIe was second in command to Clive at
the battle of Plassy. A tomb to the
captain of the Fair Rahman may also
be remarked. He with his wife and two
children all perished, when the vessel
foundered off camp, on the 1st of May,
1840. The oldest tombs are dated
1803.
There is a curious old ruin at Man-
galfir, apparently a Muhammadan tomb,
but respecting which tradition is silent.
It is a square building with minarets
at the corners, and a large arched gate
in front. Numerous small openings in
five regular rows ermcate the walls.
The most remarkab e part of the build-
ing, however, is its curious top, an
inverted cupola, open like a cup. Before
leaving Mangaliir, the hill of Kadiri,
two miles off, should be visited. Here
is a Hindu, or rather Jain, pagoda, a
Dargah or shrine of the Muhammadans,
and the residence of a Mahant, or Abbot,
of the Kanphattis, a sect of Hindii as-
cetics, distinguished by their split ears.
It is a pretty spot shaded with trees,
and rich in a spring of the clearest and
most delicious water. The pagoda con-
tains four images of Tirthankars, most
Egyptian looking idols. The priests say
that these divinities were Tapawis, or
ascetics, thousands of years ago, and at-
tained Siddhant or beatitude by their
devotion. The Dar ah is said to have
been the residence o a noted holy man,
one Shaig Fari, who performed a most
unpleasant and unbecoming penance,
hanging by one leg in a well for 12
years with his head downwards, by
which he was uiificd from all sin.
The visitor who as studied Hindfi and
Muhammadan lore will remark how,
amongst the common people, the reli-
gious belief of both sects approximates,
as in the above legend, w ch is tho-
roughly Hindii in its character. The
Saints’ chamber adjoins the well, and is
a very uncomfortable niche cut out of a
huge block of laterite. The Mahant is
a native of Benares, and being a person
of great sanctity, treats his visitors with
uncommon haughtiness. He occupies
the sole chair his tenement can boast
of, while he leaves the traveller stand-
ing. There are here caverns in the
rock which are said to extend to a vast
distance.
The Jain Temples at Mmla Biddari
and Kdr/cal may be conveniently visited
from Man aliir. Muda Biddari is about
30 miles rom Mangalfir, to the N.E.
A very hilly road leads to Gonpur, 12
miles, and the next stage of 18 carries
the traveller to the R£ija’s palace at
Muda Biddari. The Raareceives about
800 rupees yearl from overnment, and
has given up ha f his palace for the re-
ception of European travellers. It is a
large, rambling, native house. Amon
the ornaments is an ele hant carve
in wood and formed of t e figures of


Madras.
237
ROUTE 49.-—PON.dNI TO HONAWAB.-—MANGALl§B.
five mermaids. At a short distance
from the palace are the temples. The
principal one is a very large building,
the outer wall forming an oblong of
300 yards by 200. In front is a grace-
ful pillar about 40 ft. high, and formed
of only two blocks. At the base are
steps. The capital is well executed with
the figure of a lion carved on the top.
The temple itself is of granite, and the
basement is curiously engraved with
figures of men and beasts, amon which
is the cameleopard very tolera ly de-
signed. The eople about the tem le
do not know w at animal it is inten ed
to represent, but if asked, say they sup-
pose it is meant for a camel. In a dark
chamber, in the interior of the temple,
is a sanctuary, with an image of Paras-
nath, dimly shewn by a few flickering
oil lights. There are numerous inscrip-
tions, but the iron stone in which they
are cut has so mouldered away that they
are now quite illegible. Round the chief
temple are sixteen smaller ones, all of
the same character, with a solitary pillar
in front of each. The town was once
considerable, but has gone to ruin, and
there are man streets of crumbling
houses filled with jungle.
A ourney of four hours takes the tra-
veller to Karkal (“ Black-stone”). The
road is very stony and hilly, and for
some miles passes through thick jungle,
where are tigers and bison. A stream
about four feet deep must be passed, and
the palki is carried on the bearers’ heads.
In the rains this stream would be a for-
midable obstacle. It is full of fish. On
enterin Karkal, the traveller passes a
tank, with a neat Gothic looking house
built on an island in the centre. The
village is small, and has but an 0 en
shed for a traveller’s bangla, and t is,
too, situated at a most inconvenient dis-
tance from the road. The view from it,
however, is good, with a bold range of
hills called the Durg to the N., at the
foot of which is a belt of deep jungle.
The Jain temples, two in number, are
about half a mile from the traveller's
bangle, on the top of bare black rocks,
without any coating of earth, and con-
trasting strongsly with the verdure of the
snbjacent fiel . The nearer temple is

the larger of the two, and is said to be
very ancient, thou h, in point of fact,
its age probably ocs not exceed three
centuries. It is of the same shape as
the temple at Biddari, but has no pillar
in front. The most curious part of it
is the roof, which is of solid stone cut
into squares, which are supported by
illars. The weight must be enormous.
imber has not been used in any part of
the buildin . On the door is sculptured
the figure o a Dwarpal, or warder, lean-
ing on a mace, and along the walls are
some strange otesques. In the in-
terior are 12 gures of Parasnath in
black marble, three facing each quarter
of the horizon. From this hill the
gigantic image of Gautama Swami, at
the next temple, has a most singular
appearance. The sun shining on the
hu e black figure shows its enormous
bul , with a strange and almost super-
natural effect. It requires but a little
stretch of the imagination to suppose
that some hellish monster has descended
from the dark mountains in the distance,
to prey on the fair country around. One
cannot but feel a sickening sense of the
folly and hateful im iety of idolatry,
while gazing at this dlemon form black-
ening against the pure sky. The figure
is erect, and bears an E yptian look.
The hair curls close to tie skull; the
ears are broad flaps, which descend half-
way to the shoulders, and these again
are of great breadth. The hands are
stretched close down to the sides. One
holds a bell; the other, the Shesh N ag,
or “many-headed cobra." A tall man,
standing at the foot of the figure, 'ust
reaches to the calf of the le . he
height of the figure is said to e 45 ft.
According to an inscription on the stone
itself, the statue was made by Vira
Pandia, son of Bhairava-Indra, 419
years ago. In the portico of this
temple, or rather before it, is the usual
pillar, surmounted by an image with a.
sort of tiara. Below is the representa-
tion of a man on horseback, not unlike
St. Geor e, but the priests call it Brahma
Dev. hey further assert that these
temples were erected 423 Lyears ago by
Byas Sandel, the Raja of ubli. vast
stone was out out from a spot on the hill


238
Sect. III.
nourn 49.—-Poiv.i1vr T0 1roiviwnn—Bxaxiin.
close by, dragged up to the summit,
and then formed into the present erect
figure. The quarry from which it was
cut is shown. Certainly the removal
and erection of so vast and onderous a
mass deserves to be ranke as a work
of labor with the performances of the
Egyptians and Assyrians. _An entrance,
supported by pillars, leads mto the mner
room of the temple. On the right is a
double row of eight pillars. Behind the
statue is a kind of verandah and twelve
pillars. To the ' ht of the statue is
a sacred tank. '1‘ ere is a Jatra, or
il ‘ age, to this place once in se_ven
§'eagir*s1.m From the top of the hill is a
good view of the surrounding country,
which is chiefly covered with Jungle,
and shews but little cultivation, though
there are two very large tanks close to
the village.
Leaving Mangaliir, the road asses
through a large bazfir, on the anks
of the backwater, for 2 miles 4 fur-
longs, to the Bolar river. After cross-
ing the river, for which any number of
boats may be procured, the road is very
bad for two miles, passing through heavy
sand. It then turns inland and im-
proves. The traveller’s bangle. at Su-
ratkal stands on an airy eminence,_at
the foot of which the sea breaks vio-
lently. Mulki is a small town, the seat
of the Basle mission. It stands on the
Shambawati river. The long street of
the bazar is envelopled in a luxuriant
thicket of jungle. he Tulu churches
are entirely indebted to Mr. Amman,
the missionary at Mulki, for the trans-
lation of the New Testament into their
language. This work was printed at
the Mangalfir press. A good road leads
through the village of Kap to Uda i.
(g) Udapi is a large place, an re-
markable for a vast pagoda. The Go-
vernment allow 8,0_00 rupees yearly to
the support of this temple, and the
ex enses are about 35,000 rupees. The
ba anee is made up by the contributions
of pilgrims who fre uent the yearly
Jirtra, in Januar . ore than 1,000
brahmans are fe here daily. There
are several distinct shrines. The most
modern, sacred to Krishna, is said to be
G00 years old; and the most ancient,
that of Ananteshwar, is of much greater,
but unknown, antiquity. Within the
enclosure is a beautiful tank, an immense
storehouse, eight houses for the chief
priests, and many other edifices. The
town swarms with beggars.
After leaving Udapi, the traveller, by
a very slight détour, may visit Barkiir
on his way to Khundapur.
Barker was once a flourishing town,
and is said to be of great antiquity.
The fort, according to Buchanan, was
built by Harihara, the first king of
Vijayanagar, about five centuries ago.
It has long since fallen to decay, but
its extent, which appears to have been
considerable, can yet be traced by the
ditch and some ruined bastions. Inside,
a thick jungle has sprung up, where the
tiger is not an unfrequent guest. Some
o the inscriptions remaining in tem les
outside date back about 350 years, W en
Barkiir was still a flourishing place, go-
verned by a brahman Nails as Viceroy
of the Rai of Vijayanagar. Within the
town and about it are temples, to which
a sum of 1,000 rupees is allotted yearly
by Government. Near a tank are the
ruins of an extensive Jain temple, artly
buried in the accumulating soil. here
are several tanks, one a very large and
fine body of water. The most remark-
able thing in the place is a procession
carved in wood, on one of the temples,
representing warriors with short swords
and huge round shields, ve much re-
sembling the soldiers of o d Greece.
There is also the figure of a centaur
among them, an efligy, to sa the least,
extremel uncommon in Hin fistan. The
beauty 0 the women of this place de-
serves mention. Here are also three old
English tombs, which it requires some
search to discover. Tradition says that
there was a talismanic throne at Barkiir,
on which the Princes of Ana di sate
once a year, to ensure goo fortune.
On one occasion of this sort, the Prince
was returning on horseback from Barkur
to his capital, when the horsekee er,
who held his rcmount horse at the rst
stage, was suddenl struck down by a
mortal sickness. n consequence, the
man who had run beside his horse from
Barkfir went on, and some other acci-


JMadras.
239
RouTE 49.—PoNANI To HoNAwAR—BEDNüR.
dent occurring at the next stage, he kept
on over that to. In short, the Barkór
horsekeeper ran on all the way to Ana-
gundi, an impossible distance. The
legend would not be worth mentioning,
but that it goes on to say, that this man
was taken into the Prince's service, and
soon became prime minister of the power-
ful state of Vijayanagar, and one of its
best rulers. # these circum-
stances are recorded on stone monu-
ments set up in various parts of the
country. There is also a written account
of the whole affair in Kanarese, a copy
of which is easily procurable.
(h) Khundapur. — Khundapur or
Kunda-pur is a very large village,
situated on the S. side of a river which
forms the boundary between the N. and
S. divisions of Kanara; Kunda-pur
itself, however, being included in the N.
division. The river, here debouching
into the sea, forms a sort of lake, into
which four other streams flow, and,
meeting the tide, intersect the whole
level country, and form a number of
islands. Buchanan says with truth, “I
have not seen a more beautiful country
than this; and an old fort, situated a
little higher up than the town, com-
mands one of the finest prospects that I
ever beheld.” The traveller's banglá is
prettily placed on the edge of the lake
or creek, with a : ber tree
behind it, and the neat tombs and grey
old mosque of the Muhammadans adjoin-
ing it. The Portuguese are said to have
erected a small fort here, round which
General Matthews drew lines, when he
went up to Bednir. These lines were
afterwards strengthened by Tipi, who
had a dock on the N. side of the river,
though the water on the bar even at
spring tides does not exceed 13% ft. At
no great distance is a fine freshwater
tank, which the traveller must visit in
order to see the Machchhí kd shikdr, or
“Sport with the fish.” The tank, in
fact, abounds with a very fine fish called
the Hu-minu, or “flower-fish,” or, in
Hindústání, Phill-machchhi, which grows
to a good size, weighing sometimes 20lbs.
The traveller having entered a boat, con-
veniently placed to see the sport, nets
are put down along one end of the tank.
A band of fishermen then enter with
sticks on the opposite side, and com-
mence shouting and thumping the water.
Immediately shoals of fish £ out in
frantic confusion. Some fall into the
boats, others drop on the fishermen's
heads, or are caught in their arms, a
lusty handful. The scene is laughable
enough. In a short time 30 or 40 fish,
weighing from 5 to 20 lbs., may be
secured. This kind of fish is best
salted, and is then excellent. The
wood on the banks of the tank is full
of flying foxes, which, alarmed by the
cries of the fishermen, make their ap-
pearance in flocks.
The ruined town of Basnür, two miles
from Kunda-pur, up a broad but very
shallow river, swarming with fish, may
be visited. As the boat passes, hundreds
of women will be seen gathering cockles
and shell fish, which are much used for
food. The temple at Basnár is 280
years old, as may be read in the Kana-
rese inscription. The car of the deity
was built at Bombay, and cost 4,000
rupees. It is covered with grotesque
and indecent figures.
Much sandal wood, which comes from
Bednur, is exported from Kunda-pur.
This, like the Shisham and teak, is a
tree which no Indian subject can grow
or cut. About thirty years ago, per-
mission was granted to grow it in the
Kunda-pur district on payment of a tax,
but this permission was soon recalled,
for every village entered twenty or thirty
plants on the books, which would soon
have ruined the monopoly. A good tree
will produce a Khandi of wood of the
value of 100 rupees.
(i) Bednur.—Bednur, the second city
in Haidar's dominions, and by the
plunder of which he is said to have
gained £12,000,000, but which is
now in ruins, is only two stages off
from Kunda-pur, and if the traveller
has much spare time may be visited.
It is situate in the midst of a basin or
depression in a rugged table-land on the
estern Ghâts, and at an elevation esti-
mated at more than 4,000 ft. above the
sea. The greater part of the surround-
ing country is covered with dense and
luxuriant forests, nearly impenetrable


240
Sect. III.
noun: 49.—~PONiN1 'ro noniwsn—-nnniviin.
from underwood, and fostered by the
extraordinary moisture borne along by
the prevailing winds blowin from the
Indian Ocean, and condense and re-
cipitated by those lofty mountains. ine
months’ ram are ex ected every year, and
for six of those the inhabitants la in
provisions as for a siege or voyage. e
town does not appear to have been at
any time fortifie , its defence having
been injudiciously intrusted to the line
of posts erected on the summits of the
surrounding hills. On a bold eminence
within the lines of defence are the citadel
and the ruined palace of the Raja.
Its rise seems to have taken place in
1645, when it became the capital of
the Ikeri Rajas, whose ancestors were
Viceroys of the Anagundi kings at
Mangalrir. Haidar took it in 1763,
and called it Haidarmzgar, “the city
of Haidar,” which appellation became
generally abbreviated into Nagar. In
1783, General Matthews, with ‘a force
of about 2,000 men from Bombay, oc-
cupied the city, but was shortly after-
wards com lled to surrender, and put
to death y Tfpu. This is a lace
which deserves a visit, as it has een
very little explored.
Homiwar has been already described
(see Route 48).


A.
HANDB00K FOR INDIA.
BEING AN ACCOUNT OF
THE THREE PRESIDENCIES,
AND OF
THE OVERLAND ROUTE;
INTENDED AS
A GUIDE FOR TRAVELLERS, OFFICERS, AND CIVILIANS,
WITH
VOCABULARIES AND DIALOGUES OF THE SPOKEN LANGUAGES OF INDIA.
WITH TRAVELLING MAP AND PLANS OF TOWNS.
PART II.—B O M BAY.
L O N DO N :
JOHN MU R RAY, ALB E M A R L E S T R EET.
1 8 59.


sTEPHEN AUSTIN,
PRINTER, HERTFORD.


C O N T E N T S.
BOMBAY.–PRELIMINARY INFORMATION.
PAGE
Territorial Divisions .................................................................. 241
Population and Revenue of Collectorates.......................................... 242
Revenue of the Presidency............................................................ 243
Population, Area, and Resources of Native States.............................. 244
Climate, Monsoons, etc. ............................................................... 254
Government .............................................................................. *b.
Tables of Civil Pay..................................................................... ib.
Army (European and Native) ...................................................... 260
Indian Navy.............................................................................. tib.
Objects of Interest to the Traveller................................................ 261
Architectural and Picturesque Tours................................................ 262
SECTION I.-BOMBAY.
BoMBAY ISLAND-
Preliminary Information...................................................... 264
Routes ........................................................ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 270
PúNAH DIVISION.—
Preliminary Information......... - - - ............ 294
Routes ........................................................................... 304
SECTION II.-BOMBAY.
SouTHERN DIVISION-
Preliminary Information...................................................... 385
Routes ........................................................................... 394
NoRTHERN DIVISION-
Preliminary Information...................................................... 423
Routes ........................................................................... 434
SINDH DIVISION –
Preliminary Information.................
Routes ...........................
Vocabularies and Dialogues....





BOMBAY.
Preliminary Irvformation.
1. TERRITORIAL DIVISIONS—-COLLECTORATES-— POPULATION —Ravanun.--
2. MONSO0NS—GLIMATE.—3. GOVERNMENT———CIVlL OFFICERQ-—ARMY.——
INDIAN NAVY.-4. Osancrs or Inranssr T0 THE TRAVELLEB—NATUR.\L
PB.oDuc'rs.—5. ARCHITECTURAL AND Prcruaasqun Towns.
1 . TERRITORIAL DIVISIONS —COLLECTORATES——POPULATlON—BEVENUE.
The Bombay Presidency contains, according to the present distribution of the
army, besides the separate military command of Bombay Island, the forces in
which are under the direct control of the Governor, who holds a special com-
mission for the purpose, four divisions. These are :--1. Piinah (Poona) Divi-
sion, comprehending the Collectorates of Thanah (Tanna), also called Northern
Konkan, Satara, Ahmadnagar, including the sub-collectorate of Nasik, and
Khandcsh. 2. The N. Division, including the Collcctoratcs of Surat or Surat,
Bharuch (Broacl1),Ahmadabad, Qeda (Kaira), and the provinces of Gujarat and
Kathiawéd (Kattywar). 3. The Sindh Division, in which are the Collectorates
of Karachi (Karrachec), Haidarabad (Hydrabad) and Shikarpur, the province
of Kachh (Cuteh), and the territory of Kl_1airpur belonging to Mir ’Ali Murad.
4. The S. Division, comprising the Collectorates of Ratnagadi or Ratnagiri
(Rutnagherry), also called S. Konkan, Bclgfniw (Belgaum), Sholapur or
Solapur (Sholaporc) and Dharwad (Dharwar), and the province of Kolhapur
(Kolapore).
The total area of this Presidency is, according to Thornton’s Gazetteer,
180,715 sq. m., with a population of 15,578,992, but a slight difference will
be found in the later returns of the following table, in which the Oollectorates
and Native States are arranged according to their position from N .W. and N.
to S. and S.E.:—
ll


242 COLLECTORATES.

£. city's
No. NAME. ''' | Population. £, rent year | collec-
only. TION.
| 1 | Shikarpur (includin
| £ ( #
2,147 square miles, :
42,955 population). 13,679 693,259 ## 11,27,641 2,40,613
– Khairpur (Khyrpore) 5,000 105,000 ## 2,95,500+ ......
2| Haidarābād............ 26,760 703,296 | * ~ || 9,96,036 2,14,693
3 Karáchi (including
Thar and Parkar,
3,920 square miles,
51,073 population) 23,160 372,182 5,34,375 2,09,709
| – || Kachh (Cutch) ...... 6,764 500,536 7,38,423 ......
4| Ahmadābād........... 4,402 || 653,730 | | | 5,93,337; 1,02,076
– Kathiawad (Katty- 5
*).................. 19,850 1,468,900 # 45,0.7%. , :
| 5 || Kheda (Kaira)......... 1,375 £ # 1,25,609; 1,24,736
| 6 || Bharuch (Broach) ... 1,351 290,984 || " 24,52,114 | 1,05,175
| 7 | Sarat................... 1,482 493,934 || 2 |20,77,599||1,42,575
| – Gaikwad's(Guicowar)
dominions............ 4,399 325,526 66,87,440 ......
| – | Petty States in Gujarat 16,617 | 1,030,938 5,58,381 ......
|
8 Khandesh ............ 12,078 785,744 20,71,412 |2,28,577
9 || Ahmadnagar, with
sub-coll, of Nashik 10,078 | 1,002,723 22,70,058 2,42,710
| 10 | Panah (Poona) ...... 5,250 698,587 - 11,89,025 | 1,68,451
| 11 Thánah (Tanna) or .#
N. Konkan ......... 5,400 874,570 || 3 |17,74,363 |3,01,815
– | Sub-coll, of Kolába, £-
under Thánah......' ...... . ......... ) ...... . ......
12 | Bombay Island ...... 20 520,758 86,576 32,527
13 Sátárà.................. 11,000 1,219,673 13,25,872 ......
14 Ratnagadi (Rutna-
gherry) or S. Konkan 4,500 | 665,238 7,60,513 |1,19,526
| – | Maratha Jagirdars... 3,775 419,025 || 3 |13,90,572 | "......
15 Solapur ............... 8,565 685,587 .# 11,99,780 | 1,72,736
16 || Belgáñw (Belgaum). 6,515 1,035,728 5 23,29,738 1,74,176
– Sawant Wadi ......... 800 120,000 - 2,00,000 | ......
| – || Kolhapur............... 3,445 500,000 | * 15,04,196 ......
| 17 | Dharwad (Dharwar). 3,790 757,849 28,92,058 |170,998
* Outstanding balances from former years not included.
+ This amount is simply approximate, there being no returns published.
# The Subsidy, 9r Gáikwád's Cession, is 12,58,980 rupees.
$ The Subsidy, or Gáikwád's Cession, is no less than 22,72,939 rupees; hence the heavy charges
on collection.
| The Gaikwad's Cession is 87,532 rupees.


POPULATION OF THE COLLECTORATES. 243
' Jains Chri -
ribes ris-
. Hindús. , and , |Muslims. Pârsts. Jews. | #' | Total.
DISTRICT S '' Lingayat uslims. Parsis. Jews. | tians. ota
Ahmadā-
bād...... 363,980|180,765 35,970 69,275. 156 || – 77 650,223
Kheda |
(Khaira).289,060 |230,944 7,010 53,541 5 || – 71 580,631
Bharuch
(Broach) 122,528|104,999 || 3,607 52,272 2,552 – 26 290,984
Siirat ...... 256,535|166,045. 10,687 46,608 12,663 || – 146 492,684
Thánah ... 640,821|153,512 3,822 39,624 2,213 2,440 32,138|| 874,570
Khandesh.|566,562|152,347 8,232 50,879 25 4 63| 778,112
Bombay
Island...!296,931 8,007 | 1,902 124,155||114,698 [1,132|19,294 566,119
Pūnah...... 514,596 |114,817 | 11,651 24,604 107 3 228 666,006
Ahmadna-
gar......722,818, 198,969| 21,906 || 51,520 65 || – 307 995,585
Sholapar...427,501 | 98,318, 88,060, 61,202 18 || – 16| 675,115
Ratnagiri..|549,960 61,183 6,056 46,023 19| 29 1,968 | 665,238
Belgáñw...|543,762|135,006 .271,706 | 72,322 35| – | 3,051 1,025,882
Dharwad..!357,055 91,067 223,636 82,239 7| – || 381 || 754,385
9,015,534
An analysis of the Revenue of the Bombay Presidency for the year 1855-56
supplies the following particulars:—
Land Land........................ £2,845,723 £ On }^2 488.461
Sair Tax on Personal Property, £115,630 U collection, £472,892 3 * ~ *
Stamps, £68,496 (less charges, £3,418) ....... - - 65,078
Customs, £348,255 (less charges, £31,614). - - 316,641
Salt, £275,402 (less charges, £31,264).................................... 244,138
Mint, 58,493 (less charges, £20,375) ........ * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * • 38,118
Opium, £1,024,258 (less charges, 13,895) .... • 1,010,363
Post Office, £22,129 (less charges, £79,653) ..... Q - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 57,524*
Miscellaneous Civil Receipts................................................ 194,786
Total Net Revenue..................... £4,888,001
The Total Disbursements were ................. ................ 5,123,425
Shewing a deficiency on the entire year of ............ 170,253
* The sum so marked is a disbursement, not a receipt.


244 NATIVE STATES IN THE
An Analysis of the Resources of the Native States gives the following results:—
NATIVE STATES IN THE
Annual
- Amount of
- Area in - Subsidy,
NAME. Locality. square | Population. Revenue. Tribute, or
miles. other pay-
ment.
BOMBAY. Rupees. Rupees.
Balasinheshwar Gujarát...... 258 19,092 41,548 10,000
(Balasinore).
Bánsda ........... . Ditto...... 325 24,050 47,000 7,800
Baroda (Domi-| Ditto...... 4,399 325,526 | 66,87,440 • - e.
nions of the
Gáikwád.)
Khambáyat (Cam- Gujarát...... 500 37,000 3,00,000 60,000
bay).


PRESIDENCY OF BOMBAY. 245
PRESIDENCY OF BOMBAY.

-
Nature of Connec- MILITARY RESOURCES.
tion with British l— R.E.M.A.R.R.S.
Government. Artil. Caval. Inf.
Protected and tri-, ... 8 50 This force is not superintended or con-
butary. trolled, as to discipline, by British
officers. It is kept up at the Nú-
wab's cost, and employed indis-
criminately in revenue and police
duties. -
Ditto............ - - 77 Ditto ditto.
*Subsidiary Alli- 63 |5,942t|3,054 |f|This force includes a contingent of
allCe. 3,000 cavalry, which acts with the
British subsidiary force, but is sup-
ported at the Gaikwad's '
and paid and '' agreeably to
the suggestions of the British Go-
vernment. There is also another
body of troops (the Gujarat Irregular
Horse), consisting of 756 men, paid
by the Gaikwad, but commanded by
British officers, and stationed in the
British district of Ahmadābād.
In addition to the foregoing there is a
police force, consisting of 4,000 men.
The military force in Gujarat is thus
composed of
1st. British subsidiary force, 4,000 in-
- fantry, 2 regts, cavalry, and
1 compy, artillery.
2nd. Gaikwad's Regular troops, 6,059
3rd, Gaikwad's Contingent ... 3,000
cavalry.
4th. £ rregular Horse... 756
5th. Police Corps ............... 4,000
Protected and tri-, ... 200 | 1,500 In addition to the tribute of 60,000
butary. rupees, as rated in the schedule to
the treaty of Bassein, the Nawab
pays to the British Government half
the customs duties of the port of
Khambayat. The military force of
| the Núwab is employed in revenue
and police duties.
* By the treaties of 1805 and 1817, the subsidiary force to be furnished by the British
Government is to consist of 4,000 infantry, with two regiments of cavalry, and one company
of European artillery.


246 NATIVE STATES IN THE
| Annual
| Amount of
Area in Subsidy,
NAME. Locality. square Population. Revenue. Tribute, or
miles. other pay-
ment.
BoxBAY-continued | | Rupees. Rupees.
Kolhapur (Cola-1 Southern Y f 5,50,000 •-
pore), including 1 Marātha |
its dependencies, country |
viz.:- |
500,000 51,662 -
75,000 --
| 72,760 -
- 1,23,146 -
113 Sarinjäms, U 631,625 ...
orminordepend-
encies.
|
|
|
Kachh (Cutch).... Western 6,764 500,536 7,38,423 2,00,000*
India | |
| |
Dángt Rājā...... Gujarát..... 950 70,300 ... | “.
Dharampur........ Ditto (col- 225 16,650 91,000 9,000
lectorate of
Surat.)
Gujarát (Gäik-
wád's dominions)
vide Baroda. | |
Gujarat Petty | |
| States— I
Chaurár ......... Gujarát..... 225 2,500 9,000 -
* This amount of tribute is subject to reduction in the event of a reduction of the British
subsidiary force. - - - - -
Ra'. ## are several petty chiefs in the Dáng district acknowledging the supremacy of the
3a of Lang. -
: Quotas of horse and foot are furnished by chiefs in the Petty States of Gujarát to their
feudal superiors which have not been included in the military resources of each State. They
annount in the aggregate to 1,493 horse and 16,954 foot.


mass-
247
REMARK8.
PRESIDENCY OF BOMBAY.
Nature of Connec-
tion with British
Government.
MILITARY RESOURCES.
Protected; now
under the ma-
nagement of
the British Go-
vernment.
Subsidiary alli-
allCe.
Protected, but
not tributary.
Protected and tri-
butary.
Protected, but
not tributary.
Artil. | Caval. | Inf.
27 450 3,848
16 468
50 | 1,051
- 25 672
•- 5 164
105
•- 25 • -
The Kolhapur force here specified,
consists of native troops uncontrolled
as to discipline, and are assembled
under the orders of the political
Superintendent whenever required.
There is, however, an efficient force
(the Kolhapur local corps), com-
manded by British officers, and con-
sisting of-
Cavalry........ • * * * * * * * * .... 303
Infantry .................. 604
907
The military force of the four Feudal
Chiefs is shown under “Military
Resources.” . They are bound to
furnish a contingent for their feudal
superior, consisting of—
Cavalry................ ..... 246
Infantry .................. 580
826
Besides the above there is a regular
police corps of 674 men, and a body
termed extra fighting men, available
for police duties, amounting to 3,113
Innell.
The Ráo of Kachh maintains a body of
irregular horse for the protection of
his own country, in no way subject to
the control of the British Government.
The petty State of Chaurár is divided
among a number of chieftains.


248 NATIVE STATES IN THE
Annual
Area in A' of
NAME. Locality. square | Population. Revenue. T'r
miles. other pay-
ment.
BoMBAY-continued. Rupees. Rupees.
Gujarát Petty
States—continued.
Påhlanpur ...... Gujarat...... 1,850 130,000 | 2,98,838 50,000
Rádhanpur...... Ditto........ 850 45,000 | 1,65,000 • -
Baubier ......... Ditto 500 1,206 - - -
Chárkat ......... Ditto ... 2,500 2,524 -
Deodar . ... Ditto 2,000 3,650 - -
Kankrej......... Ditto ...... - - - 12,895 • * *
Merwara ...... Ditto ........ Included in 4,230 • *-
Tharrád.
Sántalpur ...... Ditto • • • 11,346 • * *
Soegáñw . Ditto 4,500 5,404 •-
Therwāda . Ditto 48 800 2,363 • * *
Tharra . Ditto - - - - 6,460 - -
. Ditto. 600 23,000 11,335 - - -
Ditto . 299 20,000 16,770 - - -
Waw ............ Ditto ........ 364 10,000 7,360 •-
Harsul(videPenth)
Káthiawād *
Petty Chiefs ... Ditto........ 19,850 | 1,468,900 45,01,723 10,47,396
* The province of Káthiawād is divided among a considerable number of Hindú chiefs.
Some of them are under the direct authority of the British Government; the remainder,
though subject to the Gáikwád, have also been placed under the control and management of
the British Government, which collects the tribute and accounts for it to the Gáikwád. The
following table exhibits the division of the province into táluks or districts, with the num-
ber of chiefs, the amount of revenue and tribute, and the military resources of each.
Number SIBANDf Force.
TALUKs. ' Revenue. Tribute. Remaindr.
Tāluk. Artillery. Cavalry. Infantry.
Rupees. Rupees. Rupees.
Sorath.. 3 6,28,000 99,959 5,28,041 30 903 1,930
Hallar.. - 26 9,73,100 3,22,461 6,50,639 25 827 1,702
Machhukánta.. 2 1,51,000 66,358 84,642 20 102 175
Bábriawad...... 32 30,200 8,127 22,073 - 40 65
Ond Surn 23 32,923 10,307 22,616 - - - 2 5
Jhalawar. 51 8,31,900 2,38,143 5,93,757 7 472 717
27 7,25,300 1,46,492 5,78,808 - - - 915 1,720
47 8,55,800 | 1,21,113 7,34,687 20 480 895
1 2,00,000 34,436 | 1,65,564 -- 100 400
4 73,500 ...... 73,500 - - - 47 513
216 45,01,723 10,47,396 || 34,54,327 102 3,888 8,122


m=-l
Nature of Connec-
PRESIDENCY OF BOMBAY.
MILITARY RESOURCEs.
249
tion with British R.E.MARK8.
Government. Artil. Caval. Inf.
Tributary to the 10 | 110 || 429 In addition to the native force here
Gaikwad, but specified, the Rājā is bound to main-
protected by tain a contingent, consisting of 150
the British Go- cavalry and 100 infantry. There is
vernment. also a police of 13 horse and foot.
The tribute is paid over to the
Gaikwad by the British Government.
Protected, but 20 285 | 197 There is also a police force in Rad-
not tributary. hanpur of 193 men.
Ditto............ - -
Ditto............ - -
Ditto... - -
Ditto... - -
Ditto 6 1
Ditto
Ditto ,
Ditto... - -
Ditto... 24 8
Ditto... 20 18
Ditto............ - - -
Ditto............ 15 8
Tributary to the 102 |3,888 |8,122 |The whole of the force here specified
British and to
the Gaikwad,
but protected
by the British.
must be regarded rather as police
than as available for military duties.
But a portion of the Gaikwad's con-
tingent, amounting to 900 cavalry,
is employed in the province; and a
company of Arabs, consisting of 111
men, is attached to the establishment
of the British agent,


250 NATIVE STATES IN THE
Annual
- Amount of
- Area in • Subsidy,
NAME. Locality. square | Population. Revenue. Tribute, or
miles. other pay-
ment. *
BoMBAY-continued. Rupees. Rupees.
Khairpur ......... Sindh ...... 5,000 105,000 • * * • • *
Mahi Kanta" is Gujarat..... 3,400 150,000 5,00,000t 1,38,400
distributed into
six districts-
1st, Nání Márwād, comprising Idar, Ahmadnagar,
Morassa, Harsul, Byer, Tintie, Dánta, Málpur,
Pol, Pál, Posana, Gadwada, Walāsan, and Harol.
2nd. Rehwar, comprising Gorwāda, Ranasam, Mo-
hanpur, Sardae, Rupāl, Borūdra, Warragáñw,
and Dhadalea.
3rd, Sábar Kánta, composed of Kuli possessions on
the eastern bank of the Sábar Matí, with the
Rājput districts of Warsora, Mánsa, and Pitha-
ur, on the western bank of that river.
4th. Kattosan, composed exclusively of Kuli posses-
S10R1S.
5th. Byal, or Băwisí, comprising Wásna and Sádra.
6th. Watrak, comprising Amleyára, Mándwah,
Kharal, Bār Muárah, and Sâtumba.
Penth and Harsul | Collectorate 750 55,000 29,724 3,360
of Ahmad- -
nagar.
Rewa Kanta, #
comprising—
1st. Baría or Deo-| Gujarát ..... 870 64,380 57,651 § 12,000
garh Baría.
2nd. Lunawada ... Ditto........ 500 37,000 40,000 19,200
* The province of Mahí Kánta is divided among several petty chiefs, tributary to the
Gáikwad. The whole province has been placed under the control and management of the
British Government, which collects the Gaikwád's dues, and pays over the amount to that
prince. •
t Revenue of Ídar and Ahmadnagar...
Ditto remaining States . 2,66,000 ps
Total revenue of Máhí Kánta ... 5,00,000 ,
! The province of the Rewa Kánta, though tributary to the Gaikwad and to Sindhia, has
been placed under the management and control of the British Government.
§ The Rájá derives a tribute from the Pánch Mahals of 4,750 rupees per annum.
. 2,34,000 rupees.


PRESIDENCY OF BOMBAY.
251
Nature of Connec-
tion with British
Government.

Protected in the
hereditary pos-
sessions allot-
ted to him (Mir
’Ali’ Murad) by
his father.
Tributary to the
Gaikwagl, but
under the con-
trol and nia-
nagemcn tof the
BritishG0vern-
ment.
Protected
tributary.
and
Ditto .......... ..‘
the 5
but ,
to‘
Protected by
British,
tributary
Sindhia, the;
Gaikwad, and}
the Rajé. of I
Balasinheshwar-‘
Artil.
MXLITARY RESOURCES.
Caval. Inf.

47 727 105
291 630

100
168
100
REMARKS.
This force was maintained by ’Ali
Murad before he was degraded and
deprived of the territory, which he
had obtained b forgery and fraud.
N 0 advice has een received of its
subsequent diminution.
The militar force here specified was
maintaine by the two States of I'dar
and Algmadnagar, now merged into
one principality, that of I'dar. The
force maintained by the other chiefs
of the Mahi Kanta is stated to con-
sist of about 6,000 men. But, for
the purpose of assisting the British
agency 1n securfllg the tranquillity of
the country, a portion of the Gaik-
wad’s contingent, amounting to
1,000 cavalry, is stationed at Sadra,
from which place detachments are
distributed over the province.
There is also a feudal force available
to the Réja of 15 cavalry and 190
infantry.
The State is entitled also to the ser-
vice of a feudal force of 50 cavalry.


252 NATIVE STATES IN THE
| Annual
| - Amount of
- Area in - Subsidy,
NAME. Locality. square | Population. Revenue. Tribute, or
miles. other pay-
ment.
BoMBAY-continued Rupees. Rupees.
Rewa Kánta–
continued.
3rd. MewasíChiefs Gujarat..... 375 27,750 67,613
residing on the
banks of the Nar-
badá and the Mahí
4th. Udaipur Ditto........ 1,059 78,366 74,000 10,500
(Chhota)or Mohan
5th, Rajpipla...... Ditto........ 1,650 122,100 2,03,966 60,000
6th. Soath......... Ditto........ 425 || 31,450 20,000 7,000
Sátárà Jágirs—
1. Akalkot ...... Sátárá ...... " The area and po-
2. Bhor ......... Ditto........ | pulation of these
3. Ditto........ States cannot be
4. Ditto........ given separately
5 Ditto........ from the princi-
6. Ditto........ J pality of Sátárá.
Sãwant Wadi .... s' Kon- 800 | 120,000 2,00,000
all.
Sindh (vide Khair-
pur).
Southern Maratha
Jágirs–
Háblí ............ ( 10,024
Jhámkandí ...... 2,70,246
Kunwar ......... 1,67,392
The two chiefs Southern
£"j ...... y Maratha 3,700 410,700 : *' | }. 61,720
Mudhol ......... ntr * "####
Nargund .. country. 51,609
Sánglí ..... 4,68,044
Savanür .. 29,670
Shedbal .. - U1,23,599
Suchin ............ Gujarát ..... 300 22,200 89,000 -
Wasravi (Bhil) | Ditto(south- 450 33,300 - -
Chiefs, ern bound- -
ary of Raj-
pipla).
ABSTRACT-
Bombay......... -- 57,375 4,393,400 186,70,820 | 18,62,990


PRESIDENCY OF BOMBAY.
253

MILITARY RESOURCES.
Nature of Connec-
tion with British


G°"emme“t' A1-til. Caval. Inf.
Protected by the British, but
tributary to the
Gaikwad.
Ditto .......... .. 70 368
Ditto .......... .. 98 - 286
Protected by the 40 100
British, but
tributary to
Sindhia. ,
Protected, and [‘_,, 122 493
bound to fur- | 20 908
nish contin- ) 10 202
gents, amount- V‘ 25 255
ing in the ag- I 15 175
gregate to 235 L _ cavalry.
Protected; now 611
under the ma-
nagement of the
BritishGovei'n-
ment.
I’ 14 75
102 785
43 682
Protected and 87 1,053
tributary. 35 420
103 643
575 3,900
25 431
68 212
Protected, but 18
not tributar .
Protected by gri-
tish Govern-
ment.
379 13,632 27,872


REMARKS.
A feudal force of 50 horse is also avail-
able to the Rsjs.
A proposal has been made to the Raja
of A’kalkot and the other ssisrs
J agirdars, who supply contingents
of horse, to commute the obligation
of military service for a pecuniary
payment, at the rate of twenty-four
rupees per month per man.
The military force of Sawant Wadi
consists solely of the local corps,
under the control of European offi-
cers, and in subordination to the
political superintendent.
The Chiefs of Kunwar, Miraj, Shed-
bal, Jhamkandi, and Mudhol, were
bound to furnish contingents of
cavalry, amounting in the aggregate
to 231 horse. They have now com-
muted the obligation by a money pay-
ment of 61,720 rupees per annum.
The Niiwab recently maintained a body
of Arabs, but he is now prohibited
from entertaining foreign mercenaries.


254 eovEn1vMENr—c1vIL OFFICERS—AB1\[Y.
2. MONBO0NS—OLIMATE.
The Presidency of Bombay reaches from N. lat. 28° 32', the N. point of Sindh,
to lat. 14° 16’, the S. extremity of the Collectorate of Dharwad; and from long.
66° 43', the most W. part of Sindh, to 76° 20', the E. extremity of Khandesh;
and the climate varies considerably more than even this statement would induce
one to expect. In Upper Sindh, the extreme dryness and heat, combined with
the aridity of a sandy soil, make up a climate resembling that of the sultry
deserts of Africa. The mean maximum temperature at Haidarabad, in Lower
Sindh, during the six hottest months of the year, has been given at 98° 5' in the
shade, and the water of the Indus reaches blood heat; but in Upper Sindh it is
even hotter, and the thermometer has been known to register 130° in the shade.
In Kachh and Gujarat, the heat, though less, is also very great. The Konkan is
hot and moist, the fall of rain during the monsoon sometimes nearly approaching
300 inches. The table land of the Dakhan, above the Ghats, on the contrary,
has a very agreeable climate, as has also the S. Maratha country; and in the
hills of Mahabalcshwar, Sinhgarh, and other detached heights, Europeans may go
out at all hours with impunity. Bombay Island itself, though in general cooled
by the refreshing sea breeze, is oppressively hot during May and October. The
S.W. monsoon generally sets in about the first week in June, and pours a pro-
digious quantity of rain along the coast. From June till October, therefore,
travelling is difiicult and unpleasant, except in Sindh, where the monsoon exerts
no influence. The season for travelling is the same as at Madras, from November
till March.
3. GOYERNMENT—CIVIL OFFICERS-—ARMY.
The Government of Bombay, like that of Madras, is vested in a Governor and
three members of Council, of whom the Commander-in-Chief is one, and the
other two are civilians. There have been 46 Governors since the time of Cook
in 1661. Of these the most remarkable have been—Jonathan Duncan, appointed
1795; the Hon. Monntstuart Elphinstone, 1815; Sir J. Malcolm, 1827; and
Sir T. S. _Beckwith, 1830. Sir W. Macnaghten, appointed in 1841, never
entered upon ofiice, having been murdered at Kabul before he could reach Bombay.
The Secretariat is constituted as at Madras. There are 148 Civilians at pre-
sent, of whom nine hold oflices in the Council, Secretariat, Sindh Commissioner-
ship, and Educational Inspection Commission; while, on an average, about 25
are employed in exclusively judicial duties; 68 are collectors of revenue and
magistrates; 15 absent or unemployed; 23 studying at the Presidency, and 8
engaged in the Accountant-General’s and other oflices. The scale of allowance
is shown in the following table :—- '
Bombay Civil .EslaI1lis/zmcnf, ofire and salary of Servants in U15 receipt qf 100
rupees and upwards per month.
GENERAL nnranrzunxr. _ BS_ A_ ,_
Europeans. ns. .4. 1». 1 Surgeon attending Go-
1 Governor ............. .. 10,606 10 8 vernor ................ .. 600 0 0
2 Members of Council 5,333 5 4 1 Chief Secretary to Go-
1 Secretary t_o Governor. 1,500 0 O vernment — Revenue
1 Assistant ditto .... .. 350 0 0 and Financial 3,633 5 4


TABLE OF CIVIL PAY.
255




as. .4. 1».
1 Chief Secretary to Go-
vernment — General
and Ecclesiastical De-
partment ............. .. 2,916 10 8
1 Ditto——Political and
Secret ................ .. 2,916 10 8
1 Ditto—Military and
Naval ................ .. 2,266 8 0
2 Assistants, Secretariat
Department .......... .. 600 0 0
1 Ditto ........ .. .. 450 0 0
1 Ditto ................... .. 400 0 0
ZVutt'ves.
1 Assistant ........ .. 400 0 0
3 ,, 300 0 0
2 ,, 250 0 0
3 ,, 200 0 0
1 ,, 185 0 0
1 ,, 175 0 0
2 ,, 160 0 0
2 ,, 150 0- 0
1 ,, 140 0 0
3 ,, . 130 0 0
2 ,, 125 0 0
2 ,, 124 0 0
3 ,, 110 0 0
5 ,, ............. .. 100 0 0
1 Oriental Translator 750 0 0
ACCOUNTANT GENERAL AND MILITARY
OFFICE.
Europeans.
1Accountant General 3,333 5 4
1 Assistant ditto ....... .. 1,250 0 0
1 Ditto ............ .. .. 850 0 0
1 Auditor ......... .. . 2,000 0 0
1 Assistant ditto .. . 700 0 0
lSiib-Treasurer .. .. 1,500 0 1
1 Actuary ................ .. 250 0 0
Natives.
1 Clerk .............. 450 0 0
s ,, .. 300 0 0
I ,, 225 0 0
3 ,, 200 O 0
3 ,, 150 0 O
i ,, 140 0 0
1' ,, 125 0 0
1 ,, 123 0 0
2 _,, iio 0 0
l.-l 100 0 0






MINT.
Europeans.
BS.
1 Mint Master .......... .. 1,860
1 Assay Master.... 1,500
1 Deputy ,, . 750
1 Clerk ........ .. 507 1
1 ,, .. 420 1
1 ,, 350
2 ,, 340 1
2 ,, .. 300
1 ,, .. ................ .. 175
150
120
100
LUNATIC ASYLUM.


Europeans.
1 Surgeon.... ............ .. 325 1
1 ,, .......... .. 300
Natives.
1 Apothecary ............ .. 110
omur MEDICAL couaoa.
Europeans.
1 Professor 400
4 ,, . 300
1 ,, . 200
4 ,, . 150
6 Sub-Surgeons“ .... 100
STATIONERY,
Europeans.
1 Superintendent ..... 200
Natives.
1 Clerk ..... ......... 100
RAILWAY DEPARTMENT.
Europeans.
1 Engineer ............. .. 1,657
2 ,, - ............. .. 550
1 Registrar of Seamen... 600
1 ,, 200
1 Administrator ....... .. 850
1 Photographic Artist 815
Natives.
2 Clerks...... ............ 100
GOVERNMENT SAVINGS’ BANK.
Europeans.
1 Superintendent .. . . .
COO
OOOOO
QOOOGO0
0
325 _9
occaocao-1000;»
D-4 I-4
ooooocnooolv
COO
O0
OOOOO
OOOOQO


256
TABLE OF CIVIL PAY.
EDUCATIONAL DEPARTMENT.
Europeans.
S. A. P,
1 Director.................. 2,500 0 0
1 Professor...... .... 300 0 0
1 , - 150 0 0
1 ?? • * * * 100 0 0
1 Schoolmaster... 350 0 0
1 55 • * * 300 0 0
2 Inspectors .... 700 0 0
1 Wisitor ....... 300 0 0
1 Principal .... 600 0 0
2 Lecturers ............... 425 0 0
Matives.
1 Clerk ..................... 150 0 0
4 Wisitors of Schools...... 150 0 0
2 Superintendents........ 150 0 0
3 ?? - - - - - - 100 0 0
PoST OFFICE ESTABLISHMENT.
Europeans.
1 Postmaster-General ... 1,500 0
1 Deputy , ......... 950 0
I Inspector ............... 350 0
1 *, • • • 300 0
1 1, 250 0
2 ” 200 0
1 *, 150 0
1 » • * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 100 0
Natives.
2 Clerks.............. 200 0 0
2 ” ... 150 0 0
7 , 100 0 0
DISPENSARY.
JEuropeans.
1 Surgeon.................. 560 10 10
2 5? 360 10 10
3 '' ..... ... 100 0 0
1 Apothecary.............. 200 0 0
JNatives.
4 Sub-Assistant Surgeons 100 0 0
DAK ESTABLISHMENT.
JEuropeans.
1 Surgeon.................. 515 4 0
1 » 412 3 3
5 , ..... 360 10 10
4 , , . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 0 0
TRIGONoMETRICAL SURVEY.
Europeans.
1 Engineer................ . 678 14 0
1 » 309 12 3
l 295 10 6
|
BOTANICAL DEPARTMENT.
Europeans.
1 Superintendent .........
1 Assistant ditto ....
1 35 -
1,517
200
360
UNPASSED CIVIL SERVANTS.
Europeans.
2 Unpassed Civil Servants 270
POT, ITICAL DEPARTMENT.
IEuropeans.
Resident andCommandant
at Adan (Aden).........
Resident in the Persian
Gulf .................... •
Political Agent in Kathia-
wad.......................
Superintendent of Sãwant
Wädi and Commandant
of the local corps there;
Superintendent of Kol-
hápur and Commandant
of local corps; Political
Agent in Mahi Kanta,
including 200 rupees
travelling allowance;
Political Agent in Rewa
Kánta, including ditto;
PoliticalAgentin Kachh
(exclusive of 200 rupees
travelling allowance) ;
Settlement Officer in
Gujarat ..............: •
Superintendents of Re-
venue Survey........ • * * *
Commandant of Gujarát
Irregular Horse.........
Bhil Agent and Com-
mandant of Khandesh
Bhil Corps; British
Agent at Maskat; Set-
tlement Officer at Rat-
magiri: Superintendent
of Police in Thánah
Collectorate ........... •
Bhil Agent and Command-
ant of Ahmadnagar
Police .................. • *
3,000
2,400
2,000
1,400
1,075
1,000
800
716
:
:


TABLE OF CIVIL PAY.
257
Assistant Political Agent BS-
in Kachh; Assistant Re-
sident in Persian Gulf;
Interpreter to Envoy to
Persia; 1st Assistant in
K€it_hiaw£i(_l ; Assistant
Political Agent in S.
A.P
Maratha country .... .. 700 0 0
Commandant of Punah
Police Corps .......... .. 604 1 0
2nd in commandof Sawant
Wadi local corps; Bhfl
Agent at Kanhar and
2nd in command of
Khandesh Bhil corps;
Agent for Bhils in W.
district of Khandesh;
2nd in command of
Kolhapur locals; As-
sistant Resident at
Adan; AssistantSuper-
pptpndent of Thanah
oice ................... ..
Commandant of Rama-
'ri Rangers .......... ..
Zngliu command of Guja-
rat Irregular Horse;
Superintendent at Pab-
lanpur; lst Assistant
Superintendent of Re-
venue Survey; 2nd As-
sistant Political Agent
in Kathiawad ....... ..
3rd Assistant Political
Agent in Kathiawad...
Ad'utant of Sawant \Va<_li
ocals ................... ..
Ad'utant of Kolhapiir
ocals ................... ..
Superintendent of Gaik-
w!i(_l’s Contingent in
Kolhapur ............. ..
Superintendent of Gaik-
wa(_l’s Contingent in
M!-ihf Kénta .......... ..
2nd Assistant Superin-
tendent of Revenue
Survey ................ ..
E I. Company’s Agent at
Jaddah ............... 3rd Assistant Superin-
tendent of Revenue
Surve ................ ..
Ad'utant of Gujarat
llrregular Horse
600
523
500
450
422
418
400
375
350
250
200
10
10
14
0000
De uty Opium Agent in


alwah ......... Natives.
4 Clerks ..... ..
1 ,, ..
. 1 ,, .
1 ,, 4
EB-
200
150
140
125
110
100
REVENUE DEPARTMENT.
Europeans.
2 Commissioners and 1
. Commissioner of Salt
and Opium .......... ..
12 Collectors and Magis-
trates ............. ..
1 Collector of Solapur..
2 Collectors and Magis-
trates ................ ..
2 Commissioners ....... ..
1 Sub-Collector of K0-
labah, Joint Magis-
trate of Thiinah...
1 ,, 1 ..........


10 1st Assistant Collectors
and Mag-istrates......
3


1 ,, ,, 15 2nd AssistantCollectors
and Magistrates .... ..
1 ,, ,, .... ..
2 ,, ,, .... ..
22 3rd Assistant Collectors
and Magistrates .... ..
13 ,, ,, :7 ,, ,, .... ..
Z ,, ,, 1 ,, ,, .... ..
1 A
1 C
1
2
2 ,, ............... 1 Superintendent Pre-
vcntive Service .... ..
2 Apothccaries .......... ..
1 Civil Servant on special
duty ................ ..
1 Superintendent of Cot-
ton Experiments.....
1 ,, ,,
,, ,, .... . .
2 Assistant Commissioners
3,500
2,333
1,916
1,500
1,322
1,400
1,050
1,000
800
700
661
611
550
600
450
400
350
300
250
200
200
225
160
150
100
550
200
700
250
200
0
00000
00 0 00 0000000000 0_00 00100 000
00 0 00 0000000000 000 0000 000
0
00000
00 Q» 0


TABLE OF CIVIL PAY.
l
1
Natives.
1 :
i Assistant to Čolićctor
and Magistrate ......
25 - - - - - -
14 Deputy Inspectors, etc.
1
33 55
35 - * * * *
2 Inspectors..
1 Overseer ..
i Deputy Superintendent
Preventive Service...
1 Inspector .....
|
?? • * * * *
5 Mamlatdārs ..
23 ,
22 ”
43 ,
3 35
23
1 Daftardar. :
SURWEY AND ASSESSMENT
Europeans.
4 Superintendents ......
1 Settlement Officer.....
RS.
Rs. A. P. 1 Assistant Superinten-
500 0 0 dent ............. ..... 800
180 0 0 || 1 , ?? • * * * * . 700
100 0 0 | 16 , ?? - * * * * . 575
- 29 " " ..... . 500
500 0 0 | 14 , ?? • * * * * * 450
350 0 0 || 4 , ,, ...... 325
300 0 0 || 4 , ,, ...... 255
250 0 0 || 3 , ,, ...... 175
225 0 0 || 4 , ?? • * * * * * 125
200 0 0
198 0 0 JUDICIAL DEPARTMENT,
191 8 0 Europeans.
1$ 8. 0 || 1 Chief Justice.... . 5,000
180 0' 0 || 1 Puisne , ............ 4,166
150 0 0 || 3 Judges of the Sadr (ex-
144 0 0 clusive of 10 rupeees
120 0 0 a day when on circuit) 3,500
1ll 12 0 || 1 Registrar............ ..... 2,000
100 Q 0 || 1 Assistant Registrar..... 500
125 0 0 || 1 , ,, ... 400
100 0 0 || 1 Coroner ....... • * * * * * * * * * * 425
400 0 0 || 1 Advocate-General...... 1,600
140 0 0 || 1 Solicitor ................. 1,200
125 0 0 || 2 Accountant-Generals... 888
100 0 0 || 1 Master in Equity ...... 525
1 Attorney............ 500
225 0 0 || 1 Deputy Sheriff. . 300
215 0 0 || 1 Interpreter.............. 600
200 0 0 || 1 Clerk ....... ... 525
175 0 0 || 1 , ..... . 400
150 0 0 || 1 , 210
140 0 0 || 1 , 200
200 0 0 | 1 , . 175
175 0 0 || 1 , ..... ... 100
150 0 0 | I Surgeon................. ... 100
125 0 0 || 1 Inspector of Prisons ... 2,500
115 0 0 || 1 Senior Magistrate...... 2,500
100 0 0 || 1 Assistant Magistrate... 1,300
500 0 0 || 1 , 55 . 1,000
480 Q 0 || 4 Judges .................. 2,333
385 0 0 || 1 , .. ... 2,300
383 5 4 || 1 , . 2,000
300 0 0 || 2 ... ..... 1,500
290 0 0 || 2 |, ............ ... 1,000
250 0 0 || 2 Assistant Judges ...... 1,200
150 0 0 || 7 , 35 - * * * * * 700
144 0 0 || 1 Remembrancer ......... 500
4 Assistant Magistrates... 100
1 Agent for Adjustment of
DEPARTMENT. laims against Sirdars 500
1 Superintendent of Police 1,200
1,075 0 0 | 1 3? ,, ... 915
1,000 0 0 | 1 ,, . , ... 878
1.
0
l
|
#
|


|-mm-
TABLE OF CIVIL PAY. 259
RS. A. P. - -
2 Superintendeut of Police 700 0 0 || 1 Munsif ............... 1: $ 6
1 ?? ,, ... 678 4 0 55 - .... 140 0 0
1 33 ,, ... 674 1 0 || 8 , ............... 100 0 0
1. 35 ,, ... 645 6 0 || 1 Police Officer ... 523 10 0
1 35 ,, ... 604 1 0 | 1 * 160- 0 0
5 ** ,, ... 500 0 0 | 2 ** • • 100 0 0
1 Assistant ditto......... 539 2 0 || 1 Kotwal ........... 188 8 0
1 ......... 457 8 0 || 4 Risâldárs 150 0 0
1 453 4 0 | 1 ** - - - - - 105 0 0
1 534 1 0 || 1 Sheristadár 131 8 0
1 55 - - - - - - - - - - ... 530 4 0 || 1 Faujdar ... 200 0 0
Natives. 1 Apothecary - 200 0 0
1 Interpreter ............ 500 0 0 | 1 Senapati ...... ... 576 0 0
1 55 ... ......... 340 0 0 1 Bakhshí ................. 192 0 0
1 , ... 175 0 0 || 1 Sená Sarkhail ......... 168 0 0
1 *, . 135 0 0
3 3? - ... 100 0 0 ECCLESIASTICAL DEPARTMENT.
1 Sheriff • • • * * * * • * - 350 0 0 Europeans.
!'" . : ###| Lord Bishop of Bombay 2,133 5 4
2 Tipstaff. ... 100 0 0 | Senior Chaplain........... 1,200 0 0
7 Constables. £, o 0 || Archdeacon (extra allow-
1 Clerk... ... 250 0 6 ance over the pay of
1 : ... 153 6 his rank) ............:.. 266 10 0
1 * #6 o 0 | Garrison Chaplain at the
1 * 125 0 0 Presidency.............. . 980 0 0
2 " . 1% o 0 || 7 Chaplains, each .. :} f 700 0 0
18 55 s 100 0 0 19 Assistant ditto ...... 500 0 0
1 Käzi - - - - 300 0 0 Assistant ditto at Adan,
i Shastri. ... 300 0 0 with 75 rupees rentage 705 0 0
: . ... # ' ' ST. ANDREW’s CHURCH.
1 *, . 100 0 0 | Senior Minister..... ....... 980 0 0
1 Maulví 100 0 0 || Junior ditto ............. ... 700 0 0
1 Názir. . 125 0 0
2 ” 120 0 0 PUBLIC WORKS.
1 » 118 0 0 Europeans.
1 116 8 0 p
1 '' 109 & 0 | Chief Engineer ... 2,250 0 0
i . . . 100 0 0 | Assistant ditto .. ... 785 12 0
8 Principal Sadr Amin's 500 0 0 1 Civil Architect .. ... 668 # 6
3 55 55 ... 350 0 0 | Assistant ditto.....:...: 185 7 0
5 #6 o 0 || 1st class Executive En-)
1 53 55 ... 330 0 0 ineer ................. 550 0 0
3 : : . 326 0 0 2n ditto. * { # 450 0 0
9 Munsifs................. 200 0 0 || 3rd ditto.:..... J 300 0 0
11 35 • • * * 192 0 0 Assistant ditto ......... 200 0 0
2 ” 188 4 0
3 95 186 8 0 * £owance when on a tour, 1,000
15 52 150 0 0 £ allowance when on duty, 8
# : : : # ' ' '', pay and allowances of their


*-m-m--
260 ARMY AND NAVY.
Established strength of the Army at Bombay Presidency, European and Native,
including Irregular Corps, to the 30th April, 1856.
RoyAL TRooPs—Cavalry, officers and men ................................. 723
Infantry ................................................ • * * * * * 4,424
Total Royal troops........................ 5,147
CoMPANY's TRooPs—
Engineers, officers and men ..... • * * * * * * * * * * * * * * • * * * * * * * * * 685
Artillery, Horse (European) officers and men......... 582
, European Infantry 55 • • • * * * * * * 1,348
, Native 35 35 * * * * * * * * * 1,468
Total Artillery ........ ... - 3,398
Cavalry, Native Regular, officers and men... 1,566
39 , Irregular 35 ............ 2,362
Total Cavalry...... ... -- 3,928
Infantry, European, officers and men .... ... 2,904
Native Regular , • • * * ... .28,014
, Irregular , ...... .... 2,766
Total Infantry . .... -- 33,684
Veteran officers and men ................................ . 933
Medical establishment, Europeans and natives, and
warrant officers ..... • • * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * ... 336
•- 1,269
Total Company’s troops............ • * * 42,964
Total Royal and Company's troops...... 48,111
Total European officers and men......... 10,633
, Native 35 ......... 37,478
48,111
There are, besides, a Gujarát provincial battalion, Gujarát Irregular Horse,
Khandesh Bhil corps, Kolhapur local corps, Rajputana field force, Sãwant Wadi
local corps, Kachh Irregular corps, S: Maratha Irregular Horse, Ratnagiri
Rangers, and two police corps, making in all, according to Thornton's Gazetteer,
18,000 Irregulars.
INDIAN NAVY.
The Bombay Marine was organized shortly after the cession of the island in
1661. In 1670 there were three men of war, of which the Revenge carried 22
guns; and this vessel, in 1669, commanded by Captain Keigwin, beat off 40
vessels of Sivaji's fleet. In 1749 Commodore James carried Lord Clive to the
capture of Suwarndurg (Severndroog), and thence to Bengal. In 1810 the
vessels of the Indian Navy assisted in the capture of the Isle of France; and Sir
John Hayes, the Commodore, was eminently useful in the expedition against


OBJECTS OF INTEREST TO THE TRAVELLER. 261
Java. In the Chinese war, in 1842, the steam frigates of this Navy were at least
as effective as those of Her Majesty. In the late war with Burmah, and in the
expedition to Persia, the ofiicers of the Indian Navy have taken the first place.
There are now 24 steamers, of which three are of 1440 tons burden, carrying
seven 68-pounders and two 32-pounders. There are also nine sailing vessels, of
which the largest is 556 tons.
The total number of oflicers is 229, of which the Commodore receives 2,500
rupees a month, and eight captains 900 rupees and 800 rupees a month, according
to the size of their vessels. There are also 16 commanders, with pay ranging _
from 700 rupees to 500 rupees a month.
4. OBJECTS OF INTEREST TO THE TRAVELLER.
The most remarkable objects to be visited by the traveller in the Bombay
Presidency are the Uaves of Elephants, Salsette, Kdrli, Ndsik, and Bdgh. Next to
these come the ruined city of B1_'/apur or V1_'/yapur (Becjapore), and that of Goa, the
Jain Temples on Mount A’ 611, and the ruins at Pdlitdna and Dwdrka. For scenery,
the Ghdis at Khanddla and Mrihdbaleshwar are not inferior to the N ilgiri Hills on
the Madras side, and though less lofty, are equally rich in woods, and surpass
them in the picturesque remains of ruined Forts, such as Pratdpgarh, the scene of
Sivaj'i’s famous exploit, the slaughter of the Bijapur General, Afgal Khan. The
Falls of Gokd/c, in the S. Mar€it_ha country, are grand, and the traveller who goes
to Goa may visit them by an inconsiderable extension of his tour.
In general, the specimens of Hindu and Muhammadan architecture on this
side of India are inferior to those of the Madras Presidency, such as the Pagodas
of Tanjiir, Shrirangam, etc., and the tombs of Golkonda. But the A’b12 Temples,
for minute and delicate carving, are unique; and their romantic situation, on the
crest of a lofty mountain, adds inexpressibly to the pleasure of visiting them.
The Mosques, too, at Alfimaddbdd, and the mausoleuma of the ’Adil Sluihi princes
of V1];/apzlr, are fine specimens of Muslim taste. In Sindh, the tombs of the
Kaloras and Talpurs at Haidarabiid, and the ruined city of Brahmanabiid, well
merit a visit. Scattered through Gujarat and Kathiawad are many beautiful
ruins of Rajpiit fortresses. But perhaps the most peculiar structures in this part
of India are the vast wells, with many flights of steps arched over to descend to
them, forming great piles of building underground.
The Hill Forts of Prata'pga_rh, Purandhar, Sinhgayll, Sdtdrd, and Raigarh, in
the Dakhan, and of Jbnagayh in Kathiawad, may be taken as specimens of native
fortresses.
The best specimens of English Canlonmmts are those at Piinah and Karachi,
and Haidarabad in Sindh, where are the magnificent barracks erected by Sir C.
Napier, built entirely of burnt brick, at a cost of £100,000, but so ill adapted to
the climate that they are almost uiiinhabitable.
The cotton fields of Gujarat and the S. l\Iarat_ha country, the agates, the
blood-stones, lapis lazuli, chrg/sials, and carnelians of Khambayat, the Zikngis and
enameled work of Thattha (T atta) and Haidarabad in Sindh, and the pearl
fishery of Karachi, with the fine wool which passes through that port from


262 sncnrrncronu. sun rrcrunnsoon roons.
Makr-an, deserve the attention of those who desire information on the resources
and natural products of this part of India.
The Chief Public Works are the Great Indian Peninsular Railway/, of which
88% miles are open from Bombay to W'assind and from Kalyan (Callian) to
Kampuli, and 687 miles under construction. This Railway will be carried S.E.
to Solapur (Sholapore) and N.E. to Amrawatf (Oomrawuttee), the principal cotton
dep6t of Berar, and thence by a branch line to Nagpur and by the main line to
Jabalpur (Jubbnlpore), and so passing Rewah to a junction with the East India
Railway at Mirzapur. The works at the Bhor Ghat, where is the ascent from
the Konkan to the table land of the Dakhan, are on a gigantic scale, and are
especially worthy of inspection. The Bombay, Baroda, and Central Indian
Railway, to be carried in the direction indicated by the name, and the Sindh
Railway from Karachi to Multan, are only commencing operations.
The Great Water Works for the supply of Bombay at Vehar, in the island of
Salsette, deserve notice, and may be visited when the traveller goes to view the
Salsette caves, which are in the immediate vicinity of the Valley of Vehar.
5- ARCHITECTURAL AND PICTUB-ESQUE TOURS.
nomau -ro rnn CAVES or ssnsnrrn, run xnsivnirs G-HATS’ mnni cuss,
CITIES or PCNAH, siswnn, Jrrfinf, AND sirini, AND RUINED CITY or
viarsron (nnmsronn), RETURNING BY soniirun, AEMADNAGAR, AND
NABIL 720 M. 1% r. 32 nsrs.
DAYS.






PRINCIPAL PLACEE H. F. AIR‘. D01).
Bombay to
Thanah (by rail) ............. ...... 20 2 2 3
Kal an Callian . 33 4
Kaiiipuli .. .... (by rad) i 71 0 4 4
Khandala ...... ........... 76 1;‘; 4 6
Karli (Caves) ............... ......... .................. 83 6} 6 7
Warganw ............ ...... ................. ..... .. 94 7% 7 7
Pfimah 119 3 7 9
Saswar (Palace) .................................................... .. 136 4 9 10
Jijfiri (famous Temple) ....... ................... 146 2 10 11
Nira Bridge ........................... ......... .. 160 4 11 11
Satara (3 days’ visit to Mahabaleshwar Hills) 193 0 11 ‘15
Pusasauli ............ ....... 219 2 15 16
Phulshai (boundary of Satara territory)... 247 2 16 17
Jatt...... ..................... ...... 277 2 17 18
Bijapur . . . . . . . . . .. .. 307 2 18 20
Solapur ........... . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. .. 379 2 21 22
Parinda (fine Fort) ............ 435 0 23 24
Ahmadnagar (Fort and Tanks) 511 7 24 26
Sindfir ..... ... ..................... ..... 590 4% 27 28
Nasik (Caves and Temples) 607 6 28 30
Thanah (Tanna) . ............. .... ...... ... ..................... ... 697 5} 31 32
Bombay.................... 720 11 32


ARCHITECTURAL AND PICTURESQUE TOURS. 263
BOMBAY To GoA, DHARWAD, AND THE FALLs of GokAK, AND THENCE To
BELGANW AND VINGoRLA, GoING To GoA, AND RETURNING FROM VINGoRLA
BY WATER. 727 M. 7 F. 27 DAYS.
PRINCIPAL PLACES. M. F. Ar"be".
Bombay to
Goa (touching at Ratnagiri and Wingorla; excellent snipe
shooting) ..... ................................................ 233 0 5 8
Pundá ............. 253 0 8 9
Khandapur river ............................................. • 263 5 9 9
Chandawadi (shooting and hunting to be had here)......... 278 6 10 11
Dandilli (excellent sport)... 309 4 12 14
Dhārwād ............. • * * * * * * ... 343 4: 14 15
Pádshāhpur ........ • - - - - - - - - - - - • - - - - - - - - • * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 391 0} 15 16
Gokák.................... • - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 403 7} 16 17
Belgáñw... 439 4} 17 19
Vingorla...................... • • * * * * * * * * * * * * - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 512 7} 21 22
Bombay ............................................... • * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 727 7. 27
BoMBAY To THE TEMPLEs oF AB6 BY stiFAT, BHARUCH (BROACH), BARODA,
AHMADABAD, AND DísA (DEESA), RETURNING BY PATAN (PUTTUN), KARRí
(KURREE), AHMADABAD, KHEDA (KAIRA), AND KHAMBAYAT (CAMBAY).
886 M. 6: F. 30 DAYs.
PRINCIPAL PLACES. M. F. Ar:"iep.
Bombay to
Sūrat (by steamer) ........... • * * * * * * * - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - • • • * * * * ...... 150 0 2 5
Bharach (Broach), (cotton port)............ • * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * - - - - 190 0 5 7
Baroda (Court of a Maratha Prince) ............... • • - - - - - - - - - 240 0} 7 9
Ahmadābād (Mosques and picturesque ruins ... 309 5} 10 12
Maisana (excellent shooting) ........ • * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * • • * * * * 353 63 12 13
Disa (tiger and lion shooting and hog-hunting)............... 403 6} 14 15
Abu .................... • * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 453 0} 15 17
Dísa ... 502 0} 17 18
Patan.................... * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *...... • * * 530 7} 18 19
Karri (Palace of Malhär Rao Holkar) ... 570 7} 20 21
Ahmadābād .................. - - - - - 599 13 21 22
Kheda ................ .............. • * * * * * * * * * * * * ... 621 6} 22 22
Khambāyat (Cambay), (Jain Temples) ........................ 656 6} 23 25
Bombay (by boat).................. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 886 6} 30


264 Sect. I
SECTION I.
B.OMBAY ISLAND.
HISTORICAL SKETCH.
The first European traveller who gives an account of the districts near Bombay
is Odoricus, an Italian friar of the order of Minorites, who passed 28 days at
Tanna or Thanah, as he rightly spells it, where four of his Christian brethren
sufl'ered martyrdom. His narrative was published in Latin in 1330 A.D. by
- William de Solanga. Thomas Stephens, of New College, Oxford, was the first
Englishman who visited the \Vestern coast of India. H c reached Goa in October,
1579, and in 1608 Pyrard de Laval mentions him as then Rector of a College in
Salsette. A letter he Wrote is printed in Haklu t’s collection of voyages. In
May, 1609, Captain Hawkins of the Hector reache Agra with a letter from King
James to the Great Mugl_111l. He returned to Europe aid Khambayat (Camba ),
where he embarked in an English ship on the 26th of January, 1612. On tlie
26th of September, 1611, Sir Henry Middleton, with four ships, arrived at Surat,
where his crews had many skirmishes with the Portuguese. He was at last com-
pelled to leave the place by the Governor of Khambayat. On the 28th of October,
1812, the first founder of English commerce in this part of India, Capt. Best,
commanding the Dragon and Hosiander, fought his way through the Portuguese
armaments to Surat, where he established a factory under Canning, Aldworth,
Wittin on, and Kerridge. Next season, Ca taiu Nicholas Downton, with four
ships, efeatcd the Viceroy of Goa with a cet of six large vessels and sixty
smaller ones, and left a lasting impression of English valour on the minds of the
natives. A regular factory, presided over by Kcrridgc, was now established at
Surat, called “the English House.” On the 24th of September, 1615, Sir Thos.
Roe, Ambassador to the Emperor of Delhi, reached Surat, and having passed
some time at the Court of Jahangir, obtained leave to establish a factory at
Bharuch (Breach), which, in 1688, was so flourishing that 55,000 pieces of cloth
were sent to it in a single year from England. In 1623, Surat was visited by
Pietro della Valle, surnamed ll Pellegrino, and in 1626 b Sir Thomas Herbert.
In 1632 the Portuguese took possession of the island of omba . In 1636, the
chief and factors of Surat sent Gabriel Boughton, surgeon 0 the Company’s
ship Hopewell, to Shah Jahan, at Delhi, and having cured the Emperor's
daughter, he obtained permission to trade throughout India. Proceeding to
Bengal, he cured a favorite mistress of the Nuwab, from whom he secured im-
portant commercial privileges for his countrymen in that province. Thus far the
circumstances that prepared the wa for the successful occupation of Bombay by
the En lish have been ex lained. hey had sent an expe ition from Surat to
wrest t e island from the igortuguese so earl as 1627, an expedition which failed
from the death of the Dutch commander, an Spenlt. In 1653, the President
and Council of Surat drew the attention of the Directors to the desirableness
of acquirin the island, and the next year the Directors represented the matter
to Cromwefi.


266 HISTORICAL SKETCH. Sect. I,
ment. In that year the settlement was made superior to all the other Com-
pany’s settlements in the East, and the Government was st 'led a Re ency, and a
body guard of 50 grenadicrs assigned to the Governor» Sir Jyohn Child, brother to
Sir Josiah Child, Chairman of the Court of Directors. Child left Siirat with his
Council on the 2nd of May, 1687, and fixed his residence at Bombay, leaving an
Agent at Surat. But his rule was of short duration, for, having committed man
aggressions upon the natives at Sdrat, and in particular having made himsef
obnoxious to Y'2i1_u'it Khan, the Sidi, or African Admiral of Aurangzib, that
ofiicer, on the 14th of February, 1689, landed in Bomba with an army of 25,000
men, and soon got possession of the whole island, with t e exception of the Fort,
or Castle, as it was then styled. Establishing his head quarters at Maza aon,
the Sidi erected batteries on Dongari Hill, an one within 200 yards of the ort.
After a short resistance, Sir J. Child was obliged to submit to hard conditions,
one of which was that he should leave India within nine months. On the 22nd
of June, 1690, the Sidi departed from Bombay, having first burned the fort at
Mazagaon. On the same day \Vil1iam and Mary were proclaimed in Bombay King
and Queen of England. The sequel to this war was a estilence, by which in four
months the English garrison was reduced to only 35 sol iers, and the Company lost
£416,000 by the contest. Sir J. Child died on the 4th of February, while the
negotiations with Aurangzib were pending. From this time to the end of that
century the Company’s affairs continued in a very depressed state, and in 1696
received a further blow from the French, who in that year captured four East
Indiamen.
In April, 1699, the Shrewsbury galle arrived at Siirat with the intelligence
that a new Company had been establishe by Act of Parliament, and on the llth
of January, 1700, Sir Nicholas Waite, President for the new Company, landed in
Bombay. From this time ensued a series of nndignified squabbles and mis-
chievous intrigues between the chiefs of the two Companies, who were played off
by the native authorities one against another. Nor were these contests dimin-
ished, but rather increased, by the presence of an ambassador from England to
the court of the Emperor. As ambassador, Sir \Vil1iam Norris was superior in
rank both to Sir N. \Vaite, and to Sir John Gayer, the Governor for the old
Company; but he was unable to eifect much against their influence. At last Sir
J. Gayer was seized by the Governor of Sfirat at the instigation of Sir N. Waite,
and confined with a number of others, in all 109 persons, in the Factory, where
they remained in duresse for three years. On the 28th of April, 1701, Sir W.
Norris had an interview with Aurangzib, at Panala, was graciously received,
and obtained the grants he applied for; but, refusing to guarantee the safety of
the coast from the Malabar pirates, and having imprudentl offended Ghazidi Khan,
the Minister, he finally failed in his negotiations, and die on his way home. His
embassy was a magnificent one, and the presents he carried were very costly; but
he was thwarted by the intrigues of Sir N. \Vaite and his own i norance of the
native character. In the meantime, the English Company of w ich Waite was
the representative disa proved of his violent proceedings, and soon afterwards
made overtures to the ondon, or old, Company for an union, which was agreed
upon on the 27th of April, 1702. At this time the afliliated Factories of Surat,
Bharuch, Ahmadabiid, Agra, and Lakhnau (Lucknow), and, in Malabar, the Forts
and Factories of Karwar, Tellicheri, Anjutenga (Anjengo), and Kolikod (Calicnt),
and the Factories of Gombrfin, Shiraz, and Isfahan, were under Bombay. This
union, however, was for some years little more than nominal, and it was not till
the publication of Lord Godolphin’s famous award on the 29th of September,
1708, that the two companies were thoroughly amalgamated under the name of
the “United Compan of Merchants of Eng and trading to the East Indies."
From this time omba became a distinct Presidency, with a Governor, at
first called General, and a ouncil of its own. At the same time an important


Bombay. CAS1‘ES—-EMPLOYMENTS or rnn NATIVES. 267
change took place in the shipping. The trade was now carried on in hired or
chartered vessels, not, as formerly, in ships of the Company's own build and
ownership, and a steady increase of revenue set in. It was not, however, till the
accession of Mr. Richard Bourchier as Governor, on the 17th of November, 1750,
that any very material extension of political ower took place. But from that
time a more intimate intercourse commenced etween the Maréitha Government
and that of Bombay. A league was formed to destro the power of Tulaji
Angria, a (pirate chief who was in possession of Suwarn urg, Vijyadurg SVizia-
droog), an other strong forts. On the 2nd of April, 1755, Commodore ames,
with a small fleet belonging to the Company, attacked Suwarndurg, and by noon
of the fourth day was in possession of the four distinct forts of which it consisted.
Shortly after Lieut.-Colonel Clive arrived from England at Bombay with a large
force of soldiers, and he and Admiral Watson, in conjunction with the Peshwii
Bfilaji Baji Rae's troops, but with ve slight aid from them, on the 13th of
February, 1756, captured Vijyadurg, or heriah, as it was also called, and made
Angria and his whole family prisoners. Angria was given over to the Marathas,
an confined by them in the fort of \Vandan, near Satara, and afterwards in that
of Sholapur, where he died. On the 12th of October, 1756, by a treaty concluded
with Balaji Baji Rao Peshwa, the sovereignty of the Bankot (Bancoot) river,
with ten villages, was ceded to the Bombay Government. In 1759, the troo s of
that Presidency took possession of Sfirat Castle. By the famous battle of Panipat,
on the 7th of January, 1761, the Mai-atha power was_much broken, and the
English were not slow to avail themselves of the fact to push their fortunes on the
W. coast. In that year they entered into negotiations with Raghunath Rae, the
Maratha Regent, to obtain the cession of Salsette, but in the end failed. They
ained, however, some commercial advantages. On the lst of April, 1772, the
ourt of Directors appointed Mr. Thomas Most the first resident envoy at the
Peshwéfs Court at Pfinah; and on the 18th of ovember, in the following year,
the Bombay troops ca tured Bharuch (Breach) on the very day that the Peshwa
Mahadeo Rae died. he year 1774 was marked by the conquest of Thanah and
the whole island of Salsette, which was attacked by the Bombay troops on the
20th of December, and entirely reduced before New Year’s da , 1775. On March
the 6th of that year a treaty was entered into between the ombay Government
and Raghunath, by which the latter ceded in perpetuity to the Company Bassein
with its dependencies, the island of Salsettc and other islands ad'accnt, the dis-
tricts of J ambhusir and other valuable districts in Gujarat. his treaty was
afterwards disallowed by the Bengal Government, but the substantive power of
that of Bomba must be dated from it. Some account of the subsequent opera-
tions of their orces will be found in the Preliminary Information of the different
Divisions, and here the historical sketch of Bombay Island itself may fitly close.
CASTES-—EMPLOYMI-INTS or THE Nxrrvns.
The two castes which peculiarly deserve mention under the head of Bombav
Island are the Pdrsia and the Bhuraa or Bohraha (Borahs), both remarkable for
their extraordinary commercial activity and intelligence at present, and for a
singular and romantic history in former ages.
According to the I_(’1';§ah-i Sarg/'a'n, as translated by Lieut. E. B. Eastwick in
the Journal of the Bombay Asiatic Society for April, 1842, the ancient books of the
Fire-Worshippers were destroyed by Alexander the Great, and, for 300 years after
his time, their sect was ievously oppressed. Ardeshir Babegfin, who flourished
in A.D. 229-243, restore Fire-\Vorshi_p. After this rei the Fire-Worshippers
were again persecuted until the accession of Shahpur, o which name there were
three kings, the 2nd, 9th, and llth of the Sassanides. It does not appear to which
of these three reference is made; but one of the three greatly upheld the fol-
lowers of Zaitasht. After the defeat of Yezdajird the Fire-Worshippers migrated


268 CASTES——EMPLOYMENTS or TEE nsrrvns. Sect. I.
to Hurmaz (the island of Ormuz), where they remained 15 years, and, being
warned by their ancient prophecies, then fled thence to Hindustan. They
anchored at Dib or Diva, an island a little to the S.W. of the peninsula of
Kfithiawad. There the disombarked, and resided 19 years, and then migrated
to San'an, 24 miles S. o Daman, and five miles inland. Daman is 101 miles
N. of ombay and about 30 miles S. from Surat. The neighbouring chief was
Rana. Jadi or J ayadeva, a feudatory of the Raj ut King of Champanir, who
granted an asylum to the fugitives on conditiont at they explained their faith,
adopted the language of Hin in place of that of Persia, assimilated the dress of
their women to that of India, laid aside their arms and armour, and agreed that
their marria e rocessions should be at night. They told the Raja that they
worshipped az an, and revered the moon and sun, the cow, and water and fire ;
that they wore as a sacred cincture a belt of 72 threads (called the Kusti); that
their women at certain periods forbore to look on the sun, the moon, and water,
and kept at a distance from water and fire; and that they had various other
observances, which will be found in Dr. \Vilson's “The Doctrine of Jehovah
addressed to the Pu’rsis.” They then took up their abode in the Itajéls terri-
tory, and called their place of residence Sanjan. Three hundred years passed
awa , and thou h the 13 ire-Worshippers held their head-quarters at Sanj an, many
of t em were ' persed throughout Gujarat. Some went to Nausari, some to
Bankanir, some to Bharuch, others to Baryao, others to Anklisar, and others
again to Khambayat. lfive hundred years after the settlement at Sanjan had
been founded the Musl1ms conquered Champanir, and Mahmud Shah Bcgada
began to reign there, and sent Alif 15300 to conquer Sanjan. This leader was
defeated by the Hindfi Raja, chiefly through the aid of the Fire-Worshippers,
under their chief Ardashir. In a second action, Mahmud Shah’s army was
victorious, and Ardashir and the R030 were slain. For twelve years after this the
settlement of San'an lay waste, and the Fire-\Vorshippers then moved to Bimsda
or Bansadah, an not many years afterwards to N ausari, whence they migrated
to Bombay and other places. The Kiggah-i Sanjlin was written in 1599 nu.
Those who wish to have a complete insight into the faith of the Parsis may
consult Dr. \Vilson's work, The Piirsi _Reli_r/ion, published at Bombay in 1843,
which contains also a translation, by E. B. Eastwick. of the Zartasht Ndmah, or
History of Zoroaster. '
The Parsis acknowledge one Omnipresent, All-creative, Omniscient, and In-
visible God, but aflirm that beholding his works is equivalent to beholding him-
self. The corollary of this is that they worship the sun and the elements as the
index of Deity. A traveller on arriving in Bomba will soon remark the strings of
Parsis standing on the sea-shore at dawn worsiipping the rising sun. There
they range themselves, supported sometimes on one leg, and rapidly reciting
prayers, of the meanin of which they are _ent1rely ignorant. They elieve in two
principles, the good I ormazd and the evil Ahnman, who are the cause of man’s
good and evil actions, and of all other good and 6V1l things. They are demon-
ologists, and entertain absurd notions about the possession of men's bodies by
devils and the mode of expelling them. Thus “the cursed devil Nasush, who
comes from the North, and is frightened away by_the white do with four white
eyes and yellow ears," is to be expelled by ablutions, which rive him in the
s ape of a fly from the crown of the head, the eye-brows, the back of the head,
the ears, nose, mouth, chin, right and left feet in succession. In point of fact the
things worshipped b the Parsis will be found to differ but little from the deities
enumerated in the edas. The five elements—the wind, the sun and moon and
stars, the ocean and rivers, the mountains, the Hom and its juice Perahom, are all
revered and adored.
Amon st the most singular of their notions are those they entertain about the
dead. A uman corpse, or that of a dog, is unclean beyond all other things. He


Bombay. c.isrns—nin>Lovnnivrs or THE NATIVES. 269
who_eats of either can never be purified, and is condemned to hell. The rules
about the escape of marrow from the bones of such a corpse are incredibly absurd,
and are more like the ravings of insanit than the doctrines of intelligent men.
“ He that suffers the escape of marrow o the size of a whole body of a dead dog
or man must undergo 1,000 stripes." In the following precept we have the
origin of the temples of silence :—“Dead bodies are to be carried on a bier of
iron, stone, or lead to a high place, where they may be devoured by dogs or
birds. If it be impossible to find a place where they may be so devoured, they
- are to be exposed on a bed to the sun on a high situation.”
In the 16th F/argard of the Vandidad there are some monstrous absurdities about
the offender who strikes a water-dog. He is to suffer 10,000 stripes; to carry
20,000 bundles of wood to the sacred fire; to kill 10,000 creeping reptiles and
10,000 that resemble a dog in form; 10,000 turtles, fro , ants and flies. Yet,
notwithstanding the idiotic foll of their sacred books an rites, the Parsis are an
eminently practical and sensib e people. Like the Quakers, they support their
poor‘by subscriptions among themselves, and no Parsi is ever seen begging. An
amusing description of a visit to one of their temples of silence, extracte from the
Autobiograp/iy of Lutfullah, will be found under the head of Surat.
The B0h1'ahs.—Acc0rding to a paper by that illustrious scholar, H. T. Cole-
brooke, published in vol. vii. of the Asiatic Researches, the Bohrahs are natives of
Gujarat converted to Islam about 5% centuries ago. The said high authorit
affirms that the Bohrahs are distinct from the Ismifiliyahs, so called rom Isma'i ,
eldest son and nominated successor of Imam J afar ${idik, which Isma"il was put
aside by his younger brother, Miisa. The Ismifiliyahs, therefore, deny the
legality of the succession of the last six Imiims, and herein are said to differ from
the Bohrahs, who are orthodox as regards the Imfims. Nfiru’l1fih of Shustar
states that the Bohrahs reside chiefly near Ahinadabfid and its environs, and that
they were first converted by Mullfi ’Ali, “whose tomb is still seen at the city of
Khambayat.” . Bohrah signifies “merchant” in the dialect of Gujarat, and this
sect transmit a fifth of their "Hills to the Saiyads of Madiuah, and pay eleemosy-
nary contributions to the chief of their learned men, who distributes the alms
among the poor.
More recent in uiries seem to show that the Bohrahs are really of the sect of
Isma'iliyahs, as t ey at the present day do undoubtedly reverence Saiyad
Muhammad Husain, or, as he is more usually called, 'Agl_ia lgan Muhulati,
who is a lineal descendant of Hasan Sabéih, the Prince of the Assassins, or Old
Man of the Mountains, so well known to iis by the records of the Crusades. This
Hasan Salifiili was chief of Persian ’Ir§il_<, a mountainous country, and hence his
name of Old Man of the Mountains. He got possession of the Fort of Almaut
in 1090 A.D., and died 1124 .\.n. Afterwards his sect were much destroyed by‘
the Kings of Persia, and, according to some accounts, annihilated; but even in
the present day, ’Agl_ia Khan has been owerful enough to contend with the
Shah of Persia, and imperil his throne. he Bohrahs apparentl adore him, and
when they come into his presence creep on the ground before im in the most
abject posture. The tribe are remarkably given to commerce.


270
Sect. ~11.
ROUTE I.—-LONDON TO BOMBAY.
ROUTES.
ROUTE 1.
LONDON T0 nonnmr.
Lennon TO Borrnur.--The journey
from England to Bombay occupies about
30 days.—-See Introduction.
BO2l[BAY.~.Hotels—PrincipuZ Sights
-—The Fort—T/ze Town HalZ—The
Mint—TIte C‘a.thedral~—Tlze Docks-
Govermnent House at Malabar Point
—T/ze Great Bdzdrs — Govermnent
Hozise at 1’arell—BotanicaZ Garden-
The Elp/zinstone Institution -— The
Grant College.
Bombay, written by the natives Mambé,
and sometimes Bambé, has its name, no
doubt, from a temple to the goddess
Mamba; or, according to Anderson,
Mamba, which word Tod thinks a cor-
ruption of ma’ma' or ammo and anzba,
“mother.”* In the Madras territory,
very many names of places are traceable
to this word, and an old temple dedi-
cated to this particular goddess, Mamba
Devi, stood about a century ago on what
is now called the esplanade at Bombay.
It was pulled down at that period, and
rebuilt near the Bhengli Bazar, on the
right hand side as you enter from the
Fort, having the temple of Bholeshwar
(“ Lord of the Simple,” a title of Shiva),
also of some antiquity, op osite on the
left. Some have suppose that “Bom-
bay” is a corruption of the Portuguese
words Buon Bahia, “good haven ;" but
the name dates from a time anterior to
the arrival of the Portuguese in India.
That people first occupied the island of
Bombay in 1532, and it is scarcely
likely that, as the had then held for
22 years the har or of Goa, which
' The Maratha name of Bombay is lllumbat.
This, according to the best Maratha linguists,
is from lllahtmd. “ Great Mother," a title of
Devi, still traceable in the name of Mah-im, a
town ,l_\'inz ontlie N. of Bombay, and on the
sun» ‘~lzL1lCl wnhit.

Tavernier calls “one of the finest of
the world,”* and which was at least
equal to the requirements of the small
vessels which then formed their navy,
and as, too, they had made it the capital
of their dominions, they should have
distinguished a new acquisition by the
title of “ Buon Bahia.”
It must be acknowledged, however, that
whether the Portuguese so designated
Bombay or not, it well deserves the title
of “Fair haven." A somewhat narrow
entrance renders it more diflicult of ap-
proach to an enemy; the harbor is
capacious enou h to shelter any number
of vessels, an the island of Bombay
subtends it in such a manner as to
lessen the fury of the sea in that direc-
tion. The scenery, too, is amongst the
most beautiful in the world. To the E.
arise the Ghats, and intermediate hills
of nearly equal hei ht, their sides belted
with rich jungle, tieir summits broken
into fantastic shapes, often wreathed
with clouds, and here and there crowned
with ancient fortresses, which were
stron before the European invader
set oot in the land. \Vriters have
justly been unanimous in eulogising
the many natural advantages of the
great port of W. India. It must not,
owever, be overlooked that Bomba is
at present weak against invasion. he
Fort is, in parts, so crowded with dwel-
ling-houses, that it is impossible it
could make a long defence; and, even
if it could, an enemy would not be
called upon to waste time over it. There
are seasons when steamers could lie ofi'
shore in great safety, without entering
the harbor at all, and debark troops on
the N. part of the island. The narrow-
ness of the entrance to the port has also
its disadvantages. Many fearful ship-
‘ A bar is now accumulating at the month,
and large vessels cannot enter.


%
le!
th
th
Th
Bo
lik
22
Thi
is f
Dev
tow
Sam.


Bombay.
271
noun: l.—-—B01i[BAY-—'1‘H1<] HARBOR-
wrecks have occurred off the Light-house
Prong, when ships have tried to enter
in stormy weather. Back Bay, which a
modern writer regards with satisfaction
as “in war a tempting and dangerous
lure to threatening invaders,” causes
during the far longer intervals of peace,
much loss of life and cargo. The
island of Bombay itself is deficient in
water (though in some places, especially
Girgaon, and also Mahim, the wells
never fail, and, according to one autho-
rity, the esplanade has been called a
covered tank, and every well yet dug in
i,t has been rapidly filled), and is quite
dependent on the main land for supplies.‘
Forbes, speaking of his time (1770)
says, “so circumscribed, so rocky, and
so unequal is the surface of Bombay
itself, that it only produces a suflicicncy
of grain in one year, to su ply its popu-
lation for six weeks.” he vast in-
crease of population since his time must
now limit the supply to a still shorter
period; nor in a military point of view
does the railroad communication, which
could so easily be cut oil‘, altogether
remove the danger of famine, if the
command of the sea were, through any
cause, transferred to the enemy. Lastly,
Bombay harbor is subject to occasional
hurricanes, as in 1837, and again in
October, 1854, which do nnutterable
mischief, and often cast lar e vessels
high and dry on the shore. n a mili-
tary point of view Karachi, could the
bar be removed and the harbor deepened,
would outweigh Bombay in importance;
and if natural advantages alone are
' Whenever the fall of rain during the mon-
soon is less than so inches—and the average
hill ior 83_ years has been only 7682 inches,
Bombay is compelled in April and May to
draw largely upon the mainland. Kolaba is
generally dependent on the wellsoi’ the espla-
nade; and the villages on the E. coast surfer
much from drough' But the construction
of magnificent watt;-works at Vehar in the
island oi’ Salsette, 14} miles from the Fort of
Bombay, _will in a great measure remove all
these evils. In the hills round Vehar, a
rivulet has its source, which drains 13 square
miles oi’ country, By damming this stream a
lake is formed, which has been computed to
(.'-Ol'l_tBll‘l 157,100,000 cubic feet of water. The
basin of Vehur is ini-losed on all sides by hills.
of which those on the N. and W. are very
lofty, precipitous, and well wooded. The
neigliboiirliood affords excellent shooting.
and the _vicinit_v oi the caves renders it a most
interesting spot for the traveller to halt at.

considered, Goa, with the neighbouring
port of Mamagiion, perhaps claims the
first place amongst the ports of \V.
India. For it must be particularly
noted, that from Karachi to Cape Ko-
morin all the inlets, with the exception
of Gheriah, Mamagaon, and Bombay,
are inaccessible during'the S.W. mon-
soon, as the entrance to all of theni
faces the N.; and at Bombay, though
the direction of the entrance is favor-
able, there is danger of the swell, during
the monsoon, forcing vessels on the
rocks off the Light-house Prong.
Bombay is situate in lat. 18° 57',
long. 72° 52’. It is one of a group of
islands (perhaps that called Heptanesiu
by Arriau) of which the following are
the principal, proceeding from N. to S. :
l. Bassin; 2. Dravi; 3. Versova; 4.
Salsette; 5. Trombay, in which the
hill called the N cat’s Tongue, 900 feet
high, is a conspicuous mark; 6. Boni-
bay; 7. Old \Voman’s Island; 8. Ko-
liiba; 9. Elephanta; l0. Butcher's
Island; 11. Gibbet Island; 12. Ka--
ran_'-.'i. The island is in shape a trape-
zoi , with a side six miles long towards
the sea, and a longer side of eleven
miles parallel to the mainland. Its
area is about 16 square miles according to
P. Anderson, 18 according to Thornton,
and 21 according to Buist (Transactions
Bombay Geographical Society, vol. x.,
art. 4). It has not a strikin appear-
ance on approachin it from t e sea, as
its highest point, alabar Hill, is but
190 feet above the level of the ocean.
The sides are formed by two ridges of
trap ean rock. i.e., from Malabar Point
to orli Wadalé or \Vadali, “the
vill e of t e wad, i.e., Indian fig) on
the . side, and from the Fort to Sion
(Shivagad) Hill on the E, between
which is a level plain, about two miles
wide, part of which is called the Flats,
and which is all of lagune formation,
with a few patches of littoral concrete.
The greatest breadth of the island does
not exceed three five according to Buist)
miles. The broa est part is from Maza-
gaon to the temple of Mahii Lakshmi, at
Breach Candy. There can be no doubt
that Bombay, within the last few cen-
turies, formed a group of small islets.


272
Sect. I.
nours 1.-- nonn.uz-—no1‘ELs.
Freyer, m I680, speaks of Mahim as
a se rate island. He says, “in the
mid e, between Parell and Mayem
(Mahim), Seeam (Sion) and Bombaim,
is a hollow, wherein is received a branch
of the sea, running out at tlrree several
places, which drowns 40,000 acres of
good land; athwart which from Parell
to Mayem, are the ruins of a stone
causeway made by Pennances." The
places where the sea entered are,—
1. Between Riva Fort and Mahim; 2.
Between Worli and Mahim Woods; 3.
Between Breach Candy and Lovegrove.
Between Belvedere* and Nauroji Hill,
the sea, which entered at the three
places just mentioned, most probably
assed out. At its N. extremity, Bom-
y island is joined to that of Salsette
by Sion causeway, and the Railway
parallel to it, and by Lady J amshidjis
causeway to Bandora. A causeway from
Mahim Fort at the N.W. extremity, is
continued eastward ast Riva Fort to
Sion. Proceeding ., Mahim Woods
extend about two miles on the W., and
very lar e and productive Salt Pans
run para lel, and to the same distance
on the E. coast, stretehin from Sion to
Sewri (Shivadi, “ the ittle Fort of
Shiva," opposed to Sllivagad, above-men-
tioned, “the Large Fort of Shiva ”) Fort.
In the space between are the villages of
Matunga, formerly the head-quarters o_f
the Bombay Artillery, Vadala (“grove
of the vaql, or Indian fi ”), and some
others. In the next ara e , proceeding
S., is Worli Hill, ari ge about two miles
in length, with Worli F0rt_ on_ the N.
extremity, a very sharp pro_]e_ctm pro-
montory. This ridge occupies t e \V.
coast, and on the E. is Parell Hill and
village with Government House, Lowji
(Lavaji, from Lava, a Hindu name:
some Piirsis having Hindu names)
Castle, and the Botanical Gardens. Be-
tween is the low tract called the Flats,
which ma be described as bounded on
the N. by orli sluices, Phipps’ Ort1- to
the E., and Bycullah Club to the S. In

the next parallel, we have Breach Candy
Hill to the W., and Mnzagaon to the
E., with the Flats, the Race-course, and
Bycullah between them. The ridge
called Malabar Hill, about two and a
half miles in length, with Government
House and Valukeshwar at its S. ex-
tremity, now occupies the W. Back
Bay indents on the S. into the island
to about half-way along the eastern foot
of this ridge; and parallel with the N.
half of the ridge is the native town of
Bombay, the principal divisions of which
are Kbmatipura to the N .; Girgaum
(perha s Gird aon, “environs,” or more
probaby Gi gariw, “villa of the
vultures”) to the S.; and Bhendi Bézar
to the E. The Marine Lines and the
Esplanade follow, and S.E. of these,
the Fort, crowded with buildings, and
with a dense gppulation of Parsis in the
N. quarter. he Mint, the Town Hall,
Barracks, Cathedral (St. Thomas’), and
Custom House are in the Fort to the E.,
near the Castle; and S. of the Castle,
and also on the E. side of the Fort,
are the Courts of Justice and Docks,
and the Jetty, called (perhaps from
its being to the E. the Apollo Ban-
dar.__* Two sma islands form a
sort of tail to the S. The nearest of
these is Old Woman’s Island, joined by
a road_at low water, and by a ferry at
high tide. S. of all is the island of
Kolaba (Colaba), now joined to the
main island by a causeway, with bar-
racks for a Queen's Regiment on the N.
part of it, a road passing through the
centre, and at the S. extremity, on the
W. a Lunatic Asylum and a. Burial
Ground, and on the E. an Observatory
and a Lighthouse.
Hotels. —There are five hotels at
Bombay. Hope Hall, in the pleasant
district of Mazagaon (perhaps Mahesh-
gaon, “the village of the emon Ma-
hesh," or simply “buffalo village,"
or more probably Mdadgdhw, corrupted
to Mqiagdhw, “fish-village”) may be
well recommended. The daily ex euse
for one person, dining at the able
' Formerly the residence of the Hon. Daniel
Draper, Member oi’ Council, the husband of
S\.erne’s “ Eliza."
‘t Tl ' l O
M"mI'1§:£_\sen.r,t is probably a corruption of
* Acoordin to some.the name is a corrup-
tion ofPalw 1', from an old native villa e, so
called. It in intended to re-name this etty,
and call it " Wellington Pier."





=
-
-
\- \-->
\->--
-
-
-
<>
.
->
-
of
*
TOWN AND FORT
Castle
-
W.) >
-
Babula Tank:
8. Grant Medical Cou.
Mint
6. Mumba Devi Tank
References
| 1. Town Hall
7.
2. Bombay Green
3. Cathedral
4. Secretariat
5.
BAY
OM
-
B
-
Scale or * a Mile
9. Jamshadji Hosp.
- —ll-


Bombay.
278
novrs l.—nonnAY——rns roar.
, which used to
d‘H6te, may be reckoned at five rupees
a day (including rooms). Separate
bangles are also to be had. The dis-
tince from the landing-place at the
Apollo Bandar is about three miles.
The other hotels are the British Hotel,
Apollo-street; Barnes’ English Hotel,
Military-square ; Prince Albert’s Hotel,
Esplanade; \Vellesley Hotel, Chinch
Bandar, and the Adelphi, recently
established at B cullah, in the house
e called Clair Hall.
Three of these are in the Fort, and
close to the landing-place. This is, so
far, a convenience; but, on the other
hand, the air is more confined, and it is
far hotter in the Fort, and when cholera
or other epidemics are prevalent, de-
cidedly less healthy and safe. By a
recent order, it is not allowed to erect
temporary banglas on the Esplanade, or
to pitch tents there. To those who can
obtain election at the Club, or who
have friends willing to receive them,
there will be no troubles to encounter.
The Railway Terminus is close to the
Bazar, or N. Gate of the Fort, and the
fare to Bycullah, where the Club is, is
only six iiuas for a first class ticket.
The Club is conducted on much the
same terms as that at Madras (See
Mad1'as Club). It is, perhaps, rather
more expensive. The charge for land-
ing is from one to two _rupees. Palan-
quins, with four bearers, are hired for
Ii rupee per day. Oificers in the army
have to report themselves immediately
at the Town Major's ofiice; and every
traveller, after locating himself, will do
well to notify his place of residence at
the Post-oflice.
Principal Sig/its. — The sights of
Bombay, if the traveller confines him-
self to the isfand itself, are soon ex-
hausted. They may be enumerated as
1‘ollows:—1. The Fort, including the
, Town Hall, where is also the library
of the Asiatic Society, the Mint, the
Cathedral, and the Custom-house. 2.
The Docks, Cotton Screws, and manu-
factory of Bombay Inlaid Work. 3. The
Governor’s House at Malabar Point,
the Tank of Valukeshwar, the Parsi
Towers of Silence, and the Temple of
Malia Lakshmi at Breach Candy. 4.

The houses and gardens of the Lowjf
family and of Sir Jamshid'i Jijibhai,
Government House at Parell, and the
adjoining Botanical Gardens. 6. The
Elphinstone Institution and Grant
Medical College, with the Jamshidjf
Hospital to the E., and the Jamshidji
Obstetric Hospital to the N. The Mis-
sionary Institutions, all of which have
neat and commodious buildings, may
also be visited. There is also for those
who are curious in such matters the
Brute Hospital, now the largest of the
kind in India. The places may be con-
veniently visited as here grouped.
1. The F0rt.—The Fort of Bombay
is about one mile long, and not more
thanone-third of a mile in width, where
broadest. Its length is from N .N.E.
to S.S.W., and Fort George, so called
in honor of Geor e III., is at the N.
extremity. The 0 d Castle stands about
the centre of the fortifications, and on
the sea-side. On the land side a long
semicircular line of fortification extends
from Fort George, to a point about as
far S. of the Castle as Fort George is
distant from the Castle to the N. The
unusual straightness of this line of
fortification is, of course, a disadvantage ;
but the line is, to a considerable extent,
commanded by a plunging fire from the
guns of Fort George. The ditch is
deep at Fort George, and would there
be a formidable obstacle to an enemy.
The oldest part of the fortifications is
the Castle, which was probably com-
menced by the Portugucse not long
after the cession of the island to that
nation in 1530, by Raja Bhim, or, ‘ac-
cording to Hamilton, “a chief residing
at 'l‘h€1n. h.” - The marks of the cannon
balls fired at this fortress by the Sidi, or
M1igl_1ul admiral, when _he besieged it
in 1690, may still be seen. Fryer, who
travelled from 1672-1681, says that
when Cooke landed in Bombay, in
1664, “he found a pretty well seated,
but ill-fortified house; four brass guns
being the whole defence of the island,
unless a few chambers, housed in small
towers, convenient places to scour the
Malabars, who were accustomed to seize
cattle, and depopulate whole villages by
their outrages. About the house was a


274
Sect. I.
ROUTE 1.'*BOMBAY-—-THE TOWN HALL-
delicate garden, voiced to be the plea-
santest in India; intended rather for
wanton dalliance, love’s artillery, than
to make resistance against an invading
foe.” Fryer adds, that on his arrival,
“ bowers dedicated to ease were turned
into bold ramparts. VVithin the fort
were mounted 120 pieces of ordnance,
and in other convenient stands 20 more.”
This account would lead us to suppose
that the Portuguese had done little or
nothing to fortify the place. The
English proceeded more vigorously to
work, and by 1683 the Company had
expended no less a sum than £ 300,000
on fortifications and improvements ! The
ditch dates from 1739, when the prin-
cipal merchants subscribed 30,000 ru-
pees towards the ex ense of that work,
induced, probabl , y their a prehen-
sion of an attacli from the lt arathas.
The works of Fort George itself, and
the whole plan as now completed, are
not older than 1760, when Sir Archibald
Campbell, Chief Engineer in Bengal,
was sent round to Bombay to make the
place as strong as possible. Fort George
IS provided with bomb proofs, covered
ways, magazines, etc., and is entirely
free from all private domiciles; but
there is an extensive range of barracks,
and great part of the ground within the
Old Fort is built over, which, of course,
is highly objectionable in a military
point of view. So early as 1739, the
Government issued an order that a space,
to the extent of 400 yards, in front of the
.Walls should be kept clear of buildings
and plantationg; and this space was
afterwards extended to 600 yards, and
again to 800 yards in 1803, after the
great fire; and, by a late order, not
even temporary buildings may be erected
on this open space, now called the
Esplanade. Hamilton represents the
Fort in his time, as “towards the sea
extremely strong, but on the land side
not offering the same resistance; and, to
an enemy landed, and capable of making
regular ap roaches, it must soon sur-
render." This description may be now
directly reversed, as the Fort is strong
landwards, and weak, nay comparatively
dcfcncelcss, towards the sea. It is true
thfit the whole of the sea.-face would be

formidable, provided the works were
properly constructed. But, at present,
there is a space of about 100 yards be-
tween the Redan near Fort St. Geor e
and the oremailliere works adjoining t e
Castle, where there is no rampart or
battery whatever, but sinipl a sea-wall.
Further, in the Castle itsel there is no
ram art or parapet of the adequate
thic ness. Adjoining the Castle to the
S. is the Hornby battery, mounting
upwards of 20 guns. Next to this is
the Mandavi or Custom House Bandar
batter , and, with a small interval, the
three atteries on the Dock Pier Heads,
surmounted on the right by the Dock-
yard Bastion. But in all these batteries
the revetment is constructed of such
small stones, that the concussion of the
heavy guns now used in defence would
of itself be suflicient to crack, and per-
haps throw down, the works. And were
the ramparts of brick or earth, the
cnemy’s shot would bur themselves, or
were they of large b ocks of stone,
would bound ofi‘, as they did at the siege
of Gheriah, in 1756, from the vast blocks
of laterite which form the facing of that
fortress. But the splinters alone, which
would be caused by the enemy's fire on
the defences of Bombay Fort, facing the
sea, would soon render them untenable.
This weakness, however, of the Fort
towards the sea might be remedied by
refacing the works, and by a heav bat-
tery on the Middle Ground Shoal, 'stant
from the Fort three-quarters of a mile,
which would completely command the
anchorage. The sand of this shoal has
beneath it, at no great depth, a solid
substratum of basaltic rock, which would
afford a secure foundation for the said
work. The fortifications of Bombay re-
uire a arrison of 8,000 men to man
t em su ciently. There are in all upon
the works about 1,000 guns, some of
which are of the largest calibre. Per-
haps, however, the most secure defences
against foreign invasion w_ould be bat-
teries at the mouth of the harbor.
The Town Hall stands in front of the
Castle, and occupies part of the E. side
of the well-known square in the Fort
called the Green, which contains about
15 acres, is partly shaded with tamarind


Bombay.
275
noon: l.---130)[BAY—-THE TOWN HALL.
trees, and is as dear to the natives of
Bomba as the parks to the inhabitants
of Lon on. Just to the N. of it, on the
same side of the Green, is the Mint, and
beyond that the Barracks, the Offices of
the Fire Department, and of the Great
Peninsular Railway. On the opposite
side of the square is the most eminent
mercantile house in Bombay, that of
Messrs. Forbes and Co., and the Cathe-
dral. At the S.\V. angle is the old Go-
vernment House, now the Secretariat.
All the principal military oflices, includ-
ing those of the Adjutant-General and
Town Major, are also on the Green, or
close to it. The Town Hall is a hand-
some building, with a fine colonnade in
front, and does credit to the taste of its
designer, Colonel Thomas Cowper, of the
Bombay Engineers, afterwards Chief
En 'neer. It was commenced in 1820,
too 15 years in building, and cost about
£60,000, an expense of which by far the
larger portion was defrayed by the E. I.
Company, and the remainder cleared off
by subscription, and a fortunate lottery
ticket, taken by the committee for the
erection of the building, which came up
a prize of £10,000. The building is
200 ft. long by 100 ft. deep. The pil-
lars in front, and the external character
of the edifice, are Doric; the character
of the interior is Corinthian. It is a
curious circumstance respecting the
pillars, that it was Colonel Cowper-'s
intention to have them in pairs, a de-
sign which was opposed on the round
that the crowded ap earance wou d mar
the efl'ect. The p lars were prepared
in England, at the expense of t e Com-
pany, and were further delivered free of
charge for freight. On being landed
they turned out so much more massive
than Colonel Cowper intended, that the
plan of having them in pairs was, by
what all must now admit to have been a
fortunate contretemps, necessarily aban-
doned. The supernumerary columns
were, by command of the then Go-
vernor, Lord Clare, made over to By-
cullah Church, then in course of erec-
tion.
The building consists of a ground
floor, in which the rooms are rather low,
and a story above with lofty apartments.

On the round floor are various public
ofiices: t e Medical Board, in which are
four very handsome Ionic pillars, copied
from those of an admired temple on the
banks of the Ilyssus, and set up by Col.
Waddington, the present chief engineer ;
the office of the Military Auditor General;
the meeting room of H. M. Justices of
the Peace for Bombay; the Geogra-
phical Society's Room; and some of
the weightier curiosities of the Asiatic
Society). In the upper story is the grand
Assem ly Room, 100 ft. square, in which
ublic meetings and balls are held.
eading from this on the N. are the
Library, Museum, and Assembly Room
of the Bombay Asiatic Society. The
Library, which was founded b Sir
James Mackintosh, is well selecte . and
contains about 100,000 volumes. A
stranger can have gratuitous access to
the rooms for a month, by an order from
one of the members of the Society. On
this side, also, is a room used by the
authorities of the Educational Depart-
ment. On the S., from the Grand
Assembl Room, are the Levee Rooms
of the ovcrnor and the Commander-
in-Chief; the Council Room, and pri-
vate rooms for each Member of Council.
In the S. vestibule, near the Council
Room, is a statue of Mr. Norris, for
many years a distinguished Secretary
and Member of Council, whose labors
in the Judicial Department were most
useful to Government. There are, or
shortly will be, five other statues in the
edifice, of men whose memory is held in
high esteem by the inhabitants of Bom-
bay. Of these, the statue of Mount-
stuart Elphinstone occupies par excel-
lenca the place of honor in the Grand
Assembly Room. The statue of Sir J.
Malcolm is on a pedestal at the head of
the staircase in the grand vestibule, and
that of Sir C. Forbes in a corner near
it; that of Sir J amshidji J i'ibhai, when
it is finished, will probably e placed on
the opposite side; and that of Lord
Cornwallis, by Bacon, at present on the
Green, is to be ut up on a high edestul
in the W. vesti ule to the Gran Room.
The statues of Elphinstone, Malcolm,
and Sir C. Forbes, are all by Chantrey,
and in his best style. That of Lord


276
Sect. I.
ROUTE l.—-BO.\IBAY—--‘HIE MINT.
Cornwallis * is now on the Green, under
a cupola; hut the Town Hall Committee
have recommended its removal to the
Town Hall. It deserves especial notice
that, owing to the cupola, which pro-
tected it from the weather, the statue of
Lord Cornwallis is quite uninjured, and
almost as fresh as when it left the sculp-
tor’s hands, while the far finer statue of
Lord \Vellesley, on the Esplanade, which
has no defence against rain and storm,
is greatly disfigured—tlie features being
almost obliterated. This ought to be a
warning against placing marble statues
in future at the mercy of the weather in
India.
The Council Room contains pictures
of Ba'i Rao Peshwa, whose adopted
son, ans Dhundu Pant, will be ever
infamous as the author of the massacre
at Kanhpur (Cawnpore); of Baji Rao’s
celebrated minister, Nona Farnavis ;
and of Mahad-a'i Sindhia. All three
paintings are lily Mr. Wales, whose
' The following is the inscription on the
pedestal oi‘ this statue :-
This memorial is consecrated
By the British inhabitants of the Presidency of
Bombay,
To the Name and Character of
CHARLES, MARQUIS CORN WALLIS, K.G.,
Governor-General oi‘ India;
Who resigned in Ghazepoor, in the Province of
Benares,
On the 5th of October, 1805,
A life dedicated to the service of his King and
Country-
But more especialiy devoted,
In its regretted close,
To the restoration 01' peitee in India,
Arid to the Eroinoti-in of the best interests
Uft e East India Company.
Inflexible and ste courage.
A sacred fidelity in Po ltieal trust,
Purity and singleness of heart,
A temper the mirror or that purity,
A reflective and well disciplined judgment
In the most arduous conflicts,
A dignified simplicity of manners,
And the most elevated sense of honor,
Every public Virtue and Spirit,
Every gpnile and graceful infection,
aide him universally
Admired,
Revered.
And beloved;
The ornament of his country and of the age,
A model to posterit) .
Ions’ Bacon, Junior, RA S,. Sculptor, London.
nnoocxr.
This insci-i tion was probably written by Sir
J. Mnckintos , who too n_n nctivs part in the
arrangements for the erection of the statue. A
letter i'roin_ him to_ Flaxman on the subject will
he found in his life, vol. i, p. ‘Z65. Sir James
wrote the sermon which was preached h the
Senior Cliapiaiii on the occasion of Lord orn~
Wallis‘ death.

daughter married Sir C. Malet, some
time Resident at Piinah. In the Asiatic
Society's Library are busts of Sir James
Carnac and Sir J. Mackintosh, that of
Sir James Carnac by Chantrey. The
Geographical Society’s Room contains
pictures of Sir A. Burnes, and Sir C.
Malcolm and Captain Ross, the two first
Presidents of the Society; as also a very
fine collection ot maps. Among details,
that part of the Town Hall which deserves
the greatest praise is the elliptical stair-
case on the N. side, with the tessclated
floor in the vestibule adjoining. The
execution of these is admirable, and re-
flects great credit on Capt., now Major-
General, Waddington, the oflicer of en-
gineers, under whose directions they were
executed. There is another name which
must not be passed over in noticing the
Town Hall. Augustine, of Portuguese
descent, showed extraordinary talent in
the plans he submitted; and played an
important though a subordinate role in
the erection of the edifice.
The Mint is contiguous to the Town
Hall, but stands further back, having a
tank in front of it. The foundation
stone was laid on the lst of January,
1825, and it was in working order in
December, 1827. It is a plain build-
ing, with an Ionic portico. It has
been erected, however, on a spot which
was for many years the place where all
the refuse of the Fort was cast. It
was then called Muddi Bay, and the
object in casting the rubbish there was
to recover the ground from the sea.
But when it was decided that the Mint
should be built upon it, it became re~
quisite to clear away masses which had
been for years accumulating, in order to
lay the foundations. The sum expended
in this work was large, and the cost of
the Mint fell but little short of the
more s lendid building adjoinin , the
Town all. The architect was ilajor
Hawkins, a Bombay oiiicer, who, with
Colonel Forbes, of the Bengal Engineers,
was sent to England by Government to
study in the office of Boulton and Watt.
At this Mint, 150,000 rupees can be
coined in one day. We read that
authority was granted to the Company
by the Crown to establish a mint so


Bombay.
277
ROUTE 1.—-BOMBAY—'I‘HE CATHEDRAL .
early as 1676; but it does not appear
when first, or to what extent, the Com-
pany availed themselves of this privilege.
The Oathedml church of St. Thomas
stands in the Fort, close to the Green.
It was built as a garrison church in
1720, and made a cathedral on the
establishment of the See of Bombay,
in 1833, on which occasion the only
change in the structure was the eon-
version of the low belfry into a high
tower, which was done at the expense
of the Court. The plan is simple; the
columns approach the Tuscan, the roof
is vaulted, and the whole building is of
stone. The body of the church is
roomy, but there is no gallery. There
are some monuments here which deserve
attention. Of these the one of greatest
interest is by Bacon to Governor Jona-
than Duncan,* who held his oifice for
the unprecedented period of 16 years.
The monument was raised by public
subscription, and represents Mr. Duncan
receiving the blessings of young Hindus.

This has reference to his glorious and
successful eiforts in suppressing infanti-
cide in certain districts near Benares,
and afterwards in Kathiawad, through
the zealous and able agency of Colonel
Walker. Mr. Duncan was a warm
friend of the natives of India, and
a true philanthropist; but his services
were but inadequately appreciated by
Government.
Next in interest is the monument, also
by Bacon, of Captain Hardinge, R.N.,
younger brother of Lord Hardiuge, who
fell in capturing the Piedmontese, a
ship of far superior size. The Pied-
montese had been eminently successful
in taking English merchant ships, and
on one occasion, when she made a
prize of the Warren Hastings, com-
manded by Captain Larkins, the French
first lieutenant, M. Moreau, rendered
himself infamously notorious by stab-
bing the captain and several of the
ofliceiis of the English ship. This man,
when the Piedmontese struck her colors,
blew out his brains, anticipating, pro-
bably, no very gentle usage from the
captors. Captain Hardinge’s ship, the
St. Fiorenzo, a frigate of 38 guns,
miserably undennanned, sailed from
Point de Gallo on- Friday, the 4th of
March, 1805, and sighted on that day
the Piedmontese, Captain Epher, of 50
guns, and 566 men, of whom, however,
200 were Lascars. He gave chase, and
exchanged the first broadside about half-
past eleven at night. The French ship
then got away, but next day the action
was renewed, and the English frigate
being terribly cri pled in her rigging,
the renchm_an, t ough a worse soiler,
got away again. Next day, the Fiorenzo
came up with her, when, after a contest
of one hour and 40 minutes, the Pied-
montese struck her colors. The French
had 48 killed and 112 wounded; and
the English but 13 killed and25 wounded.
The merchants and principal inhabi-
tants of Bombay presented a vase,
worth 300 guineas, to the father of
Captain Hardinge, a sword worth 100
guineas to the lst Lieutenant, Dawson,
5001. to the crew of the Fiorenzo, and
‘The i’ollowin_ is the inscription on the hand-
some and taste ul monument to Mr. Duncan in
the Bombay Cathedral:
In memory of
THE HON’BLl] JONATHAN DUNCAN,
Governor of Bombay, from 1795 to 1611.
Recommended to that high oiflce by his talents
and integrity,
In the dischar e of various important duties in
ongal and Benares,
His purity and zeal for the public good were
equally conspicuous
During his long and upr_i ht administration st
this Presi ency.
with a generous disregard oi’ personal interest,
His private lite was adorned
By the most munilicent acts of charity and
friendship
To all classes oi’ the community.
To the nntivés in particular he was Ii friend and
protector,
To whom they looked with unbounded confidence
And. never appealed in vain.
He was born at Wnrdhouse. in the county of
Forlar in Scotland,
On the lst of lllay, 1756,
Came to India at the age of id: and. after 89
years of uninterrupted service,
Died at this place on llth August, lSll.
Iufantioide
abolished
in
Bensrcs and Kattywar.
Several of the Br_itish_inhi_ita,n_ts of Bombay,
Justly appreciating his distinguished merits
In public and private life,
Have raised this monument
Al a tribute of respect and esteem,
HDCCCXVII.
erected this monument in the Cathedral,
at a cost of 2,000l.


278
Seet. I.
BO UTE l .—BOMBAY—THE DOCKS.
Opposite Governor Duncan’s monu-
ment is one to Stephen Babington, of
the Bombay C.S., who was chosen by Mr.
Elphinstone to revise the Judicial Code,
having as colleagues Mr. Erskine, the
translator of “Baber‘s Memoirs,” and
Mr. Norris. The figure is by Chantrey,
in his best style. Mr. Babington is
represented in a sitting posture, holding
in his hands a book, the “Judicial
Code," which he revised. The inscri -
tion on this monument is by Sir .
Mackintosh, and is 'ustly reckoned one
of the most classical pieces of English
composition. On the left, going up to
the chancel, are two monuments erected
by the E. I. Compan ,—one to Colonel
Dow, killed by a roe et at the capture
of Thanah, and the other to Colonel
Campbell, who, in 1783, with less than
700 Euro cans, and with only 2,300
native sol 'ers, defended Mangaliir for
many months against Tipii, who had
with him an army of 30,000 regular
infantry, an immense body of horse,
said to have been 60,000, 100 guns, and
upwards of 1,000 French. Mangalur
was in the end surrendered, but not till
the garrison had fed on rats, jackals,
and every sort of loathsome and un-
wholesome food, and till Tipu had sacri-
ficed half his army (Mill, vol. iv., p.
246). In the chancel, on the left-hand
side, is the tomb of General Carnae,
who was Clive’s second in command at
the battle of Plassey, and who won
independent laurels 111 many other
fields. He died at a very advanced age,
at Mangalur, having retired from the
service, and this monument was erected
to his memory by his nephew, Mr.
Rivett, Member of Council, to whom
he bequeathed his fortune, and who was
the father of the late Sir James Rivett
Carnac, Governor of Bombay. There
are also monuments to General Bellasis,
Captain Warden, Mr. Seton, Chief of
Surat, Admiral Maitland, to whom Na-
poleon surrendered, and others. To
General Bellasis, Bombay is indebted for
the Apollo Baudar and the road through
the Flats, called after his name, which
useful works were executed under his
orders by a multitude of the people of
Surat, driven from that city during a
nmnne.

2. The Docl:a.—So early as 1673, the
East India Company had been com-
pelled to build ships of war to protect
their merchantmen from the attacks of
the Maratha and Malabar pirates. Surat,
however, was the chief station for build-
ing vessels, and up to 17 35 there were
no docks in existence at Bombay. In
that year a vessel was built at Surat for
the Company, and an oflicer being des-
patched from Bombay to inspect it, he
was much pleased with the skill and
intelligence of the Parsf foreman, Lowji
Naushirwanji; and, knowing that the
Government was desirous of establishin
abuilding-yard at Bomba , endeavoure
to persuade him to leave biirat and take
charge of it. The Parsi, however, had
too much honesty to accept this advan-
tageous offer without permission from
his master to whom he was en a ed.
On its being granted, he proceede to
Bombay, with a few artificers, and se-
lected a site for the Docks. Next year,
Lowji was sent to the N. to procure
timber, and on his return he brou ht
his family with him. From that ay
to this, the supcrintendence of the Docks
has been wholly in Lowj'1’s family, or,
as it is well expressed by a well-known
writer, “The history of the Dock-yard
is that of the rise of a respectable, honest,
and hard-workin Pérsi family.” Up
to this time the ing’s ships had been
hove don for repairs at Hog Island;
but now they were so frequently brought
for that purpose to the Docks that it
became necessary to enlarge the yard.
This was done about 1767. In the year
1771, two grandsons of Lowji—Framji
Manikjf and Jamshidjf Bahmanj1’—en-
tered the Dockyard; but were com-
pelled by their grandfather to learn
their profession practically, working as
common carpenters at 12 rupees a month.
In 1774, Lowji died, leaving only a
house and a sum of money under £ 3,000.
He bequeathed, however, to his family,
a more precious legac ,—the remem-
brance and prestige of is character for
spotless integrity. Manikji succeeded
him as master-builder, and Bahmanji
was appointed his assistant, and the two
managed the Docks with increased suc-
cess. They built two fine ships of 900


Bombay.
279
noun: 1.—-BOMBAY—-THE nocirs.
tons, and the men of war crippled in
the severe actions between Sir Edward
Hughes and Admiral Suffrein were all
docked at Bombay. Bahinanji died in
1790, in debt, and Manikji two years
afterwards, leaving but a scanty sum to
his famil . Their sons of the same
names-Fpiamji Manikji, and Jamshidji
Bahmanji—succeeded them. .Tamshid'i,
in 1802, built the Cornwallis frigate for
the East India Company, and his suc-
cess determined the home government
to order the construction of ships for
the royal navy at Bombay. At first it was
proposed to send out a European builder;
ut J amshidj’i’s talents being properly
represented, he was permitted to have
the sole supervision as master builder.
In 1805 the Dockyard was enlarged;
and the thoroughfare, which till then
had been o en through it, was closed.
On the 23r of June, 1810, the Miiiden,
74, built entirely by Parsis, was launched,
and not long after the Cornwallis, 74,
of 1767 tons, at an expense, including
lower masts and bowsprit, of £60,762;
and in 1812, the Wellesley, 74, of 1,745
tons, at a cost of £56,003. In 1818,
the Malabar, 74, and the Seringapatam,
a frigate of 38 guns, were built, and
subsequently very many other ships of
war, among which the Ganges, 84, the
Calcutta, 86, and the Miani, of 86 guns,
may be particularly noticed. All these
vessels were made of teak, and have
sufficientl proved the lasting qualit of
that woo . It has been pronouncedy by
persons intimately acquainted with the
subject, that a teak ship will last from
four to five times as long as one of
English oak. The worm will not eat
it, and the oil it contain protects the
iron clamps and bolts from rusting.
Thus we are told that, while ships in the
British nav are replaced every 12 years,
teak ships ast 50 years and upwards.
Indeed, the old Lovvj'i Castle, a mer-
chantman of about 1,000 tons, is known
to have made voyages for nearly three-
quarters of a century. The dockyard
has been of late years much enlarged.
It now extends from the Apollo Gate to
the Custom House, with a sea face of
nearly 700 yards. The enclosure con-
tains about 200 acres. There are two

Graving Docks, the Bombay Dock, 618
ft. long,_57 ft. broad at top, and 34 at
bottom, and with 21 ft. perpendicular
depth; the Duncan Dock, built by
Colonel Cowper, in 1816, at a cost of
£140,000, 550 ft. long, 68 ft. broad at
top and 46 at bottom, and with 26 ft.
perpendicular depth. There are also
four noble building slips opposite the
Apollo Pier, and on the S.E. side of the
enclosure. The work is greatly facili-
tated by a steam engine, which pumps
out the water in a few hours. At
Bombay alone, two ships of the line, or
one ship and two frigates, can be finished
for the English navy every 18 months.
Bombay is also the only principal settle-
ment in India where the rise of the
tide is sufficient to permit docks on
a large scale. At Bombay, the highest
spring tides reach to 17 ft.; but the
usual height is 14ft. The Docks be-
long to the Company, and a high
monthly rent is paid for the repairs of
royal vessels.
The original Cotton Screws are worked
by West’s patent. West came to India
in 1798, to set up the hydrostatic
presses of which Mr. Henshaw was pro-
prietor. Through the bigoted opposi-
tion of the merchants these presses
failed, and were broken up and sold for
ballast, though they cost upwards of
£20,000. After this, the iron screw
was graduall improved till 1806, which
is the time amilton speaks of when he
says, “at Bombay, 1,500lbs. of cotton
are screwed into 50 ft. or one ton; but,
at Calcutta, 7 per cent. more are put.”
He adds, “The cotton screw is worked
by a capstan, to each bar of which
there are 30 men, amounting, in the
whole, to about 240 to each screw.
Hemp is packed in the same manner;
but it requires to be carefully laid in
the press, for the fibres are liable to be
broken if they are bent.” In 1819,
Mr. West brought his geometrical press
into work. The machine, in appear-
ance, resembles in some measure a pile
engine. Like it, the rammer slides in a
mortise up and down two strong up-
rights, which are laid hold of by two
strong iron rods attached to the capstan,
which is easily worked by a man to each


280
Sect. I.
ROUTE 1.—'BOMBAY—-THE GOVERNMENT HOUSE-
bar. The process of packing is com-
pleted at once, and when the cotton is
pressed down to the proper size, the
machine, by an ingenious contrivance,
stops, the doors fly open, and the lash-
ing of the bale commences. The bale
is taken out completely finished, and
the press being relieved without the
tcdious process attendant on a screw,
the rammcr flies up, and the press is
ready to receive cotton for another bale.
\Vest’s prcss effected a diminution of
labor and expense, in comparison with
the old screw, in the ratio of 20 to 50.
For a history of cotton packing in Bom-
ba , see the Asiatic Journal of 1819.
\ cst’s press was, till lately, close to the
Apollo Bandar in the Fort, and is now
at Kolaba. It screws bales at the rate
of 7% minutes per bale from the time of
putting in cotton until the men stop
turning, and half a minute more for
lashing the bale, averaging about 7
bales per hour. There are now new
screws erected by a company at Kolaba,
on ground recovered from the sea. There
is at Kolaba also a new Whar , the
onl one in India, where a s ip of
mo erate size can lic alongside to re-
ceive cargo. Bctween the A ollo Cot-
ton Screws and the Post Ofhce, stands
the ofiice of the Hydraulic Press Cotton
Packing Company. It is a handsome
building and contains a Brahma press,
with eight presses, each worked by three
force pumps, the whole moved by a
steam engine of 60-horse power.
The Bombay Inlaid Work.-—We learn
from a. letter in Miss Edgeworth's life
of her father, vol. ii., p. 274, that in
1808 there was but one family in Bom-
bay that practised the trade of Bombay
inlaying. This family was a Miighul
one from Labor, and has thrown out
several branches; but the Bombay in-
la ers are even now far from numerous.
The art is said to be of Sindhian origin;
if so, it can only be said that the dis-
ciple has far outstripped his master, for
the Ijlaidarabad veneeriug is very in-
ferior to the mosaics of Bombay. The
method of operation is as follows:~A
frame is constructed, on which is placed
_two planes of ivory, silver, or whatever
is required to form the extreme edges of

the borderinv. Then small rods of
ivory, stained with various colors, and
which have been first dipped in strong
colorless glue, are laced horizontally be-
tween the planes, t c arrangement being
according to the pattern required. The
whole is then pressed with heav weights
till perfectly dry. When a order is
required for any article, the ivory cutter
saws from either end of the planes thus
prepared, a segment, about a quarter of
an inch thick. By this method, two
six-inch ivory planes will supply borders
for a number of articles at one-third of
the price which would be required, were
each strip of Mosaic arranged ex ressly
for the purpose. A handsome esk or
work-box of Bomba inlaid work costs
about six guineas, ut a watch-stand
or card-case may be obtained for ten
shillings.
3. The Government House at Malabdr
Point.--Supposing the traveller to make
his visit from the Apollo Gate of the
Fort, close to which, inside the Fort, on
the \V. side of the road, is St. Andrew’s,
the principal place of worship of the
Church of Scotland in Bombay,‘ he
will pass along a broad open drive cut
through the rampart and outworks,
which, however convenient to the public,
has not improved the defensive charac-
ter of the Fort. At a_ point where the
Koliiba road fronts him, and that, to
the Apollo Pier, is on his left, he will
turn to the right along the Esplanade.
Here was to have been the column com-
memorative of Napier, formed of the
guns taken at Miani. As no one in
India would undertake the work, the
cannons were put on hoard the ship
Stalkart, and lost in her in descending
the Hugh’, in I847. About half a mile
from the Apollo Gate the Church Gate
is passed, and here is Chnntrey's statue
of the Marquis Wellesley m white
marble. For years after its arrival, it
lay neglected in the warehouse of Messrs.
Forbes and Co., and, but for the exer-
tions and liberal contributions of Sir C.
Forbes, would, (perhaps, have not been
erected to this ate. In the same way,
' It is proposed now to erect the Wellington
column on this spot. The Apollo Gate and
Apollo Bandnr are to _be called Wellington
Gate and Wellington Pier.


Bombay.
281
ROUTE l.—BOMIlAY—'l'EMPLE OF VdLUKESH\VAB.
the bust of Sir J. Carnac lay three years
forgotten in a packing box under the
Town Hall stairs, and was only dis-
covered by accident—s0 transient is the
feeling of enthusiasm for defunct public
characters. Proceeding on, the tra-
veller will observe to the left a large
stone cross, marking the site of a Por-
tuguese Church, removed when the
Esplanade was cleared. On the right
he will remark the Scotch Free Church,
first used in 1847, and near it the El hin-
stone Institution. Next to these IS the
Court of Small Causes, presided over by
three Judges. Before entering the Gir-
gaon road, a large tank is assed, which
bears the name of Framji fifisji, and a
Doric building, usually called Cow Castle,
erected in 1852, by the rich Hindu
banker, Ram Lél, as a shed for cattle
employed in lifting water. On one side
of the portals of the native town is the
“Robert Money School,” and on the
other the Depository of the Bombay
Tract and Book Society; and half-way
up the Girgaon-road is the mansion of
Jagannath Shankarseth, awealth mer-
chant of the Goldsmith caste, an Pre-
sident of the Bombay Association.
Thence to Malabar Point the road
calls for little particular remark. The
residence of Ram Lél, said to be the
richest inhabitant of Bombay, a small
Muhammadan masjid, the grand Medical
College, and the B cullah Schools, will,
however, attract t e attention of the
stranger as he gasses along. A few
words may be sai as to the Govemor's
residence at the Point. Up to the time
of Sir Evan N epean, the Governor had
resided either at the Fort or at Parell.
At Malabar Point there were only
Scr_jeant’s quarters near the Flagstaff.
In 1813, Sir Evan, feeling the cool
sea brecze to be indispensable to his
health, built an additional room to the
Scrjeant’s quarters. He also some-
what improved the access by the back
road, then in existence. In 1819-20,
Mr. Elphinstone added a public break-
fast-room, and a detached sleeping
bangla on a small scale. At that time
there was not a single house on the
Malabar Hill and Breach Candy, now so
covered with villas, except that called
The Retreat, and one other. But the
presence of the Governor soon attracted
various individuals to settle in villas near
the spot, and the colonization of this part
of the island of Bombay may be said to
date from 1820. In 1828, Sir John
Malcolm gave up, for public oflices, the
Government House in the Fort, the
present Secretary's ofiice in Apollo-
street, and considerabl enlarging the
residence at Malabar oint, regularly
constituted it a Government House. Ho
also converted a footpath, so steep and
rugged as to be almost impracticable,
into a carriage road. The Governor’s
residence at the Point is elevated about
70 ft. above the sea, and stands close to
the edge of the steep clifl' in which Mala-
bar Hill, on this side, terminates. The
drive to Malabar Point, and thence along
the sea by Breach Candy, is one of the
most beautiful in the island, and is well
thronged with carriages and equestrians.
A recent traveller Graul) says that he
was reminded of aples by this pro-
menade.
The temple of Vdlukeshwar, “ Sand-
Lor ," is on the W. side of Malabar
Hill, and close to Malabar Point.
Throngs of Hindus will be met coming
from it, their foreheads newly colore
with the sectarial mark. The legend
says that Rama, on his wag from
Ayodhya (Oude) to Lenka ( eylon),
to recover his bride Sita, carried off by
Ravana, halted here for the night.
Lakshman provided his brother, Rama,
with a new Lin am direct from Benares
every night. his ni ht he failed to
arrive at the expectc time, and the
impatient Rama made for himself a
Lingam of the sand at the spot. When
the one from Benares arrived it was set
up in the tem le, while the one which
Rama had ma e, in after ages, on the
arrival of the Portuguese, sprang into
the sea from horror of the barbarians.
There is also a very fine, but small tank
here, adorned with noble flights of steps,
which, too, is not without its legend.
Rama thirsted, and there being no water
near, he shot an arrow into the earth,
and forthwith appeared the tank, hence
called the Vdnatirtha, “Arrow-tank.”
The tank is shaded by fine trees, and


282
Sect. I.
ROUTE 1.—BOMBAY-THE GREAT BázARs.
encircled by snow-white pagodas and
neat houses of brahmans.
The Dokhmas or Towers of Silence,
as the burial places of the Pársis are
called, are three in number, the third
having lately been erected at a cost of
£4,000, by Främji Kaasji, on the oc-
casion of a domestic £ these
tombs being usually built by some rich
Parsi, on losing a wife, or some other
near and dear relation. In the same
way, Sir Jamshidji has lately erected
one at Púnah. As the bodies of the dead
are exposed nude on an iron grating, an
attempt to approach the building itself
would, for obvious reasons, be highly
resented.* At times, however, when
there are no bodies exposed, and the
gates are unlocked for any purpose,
there would be no opposition to a
stranger's entering. Fitzclarence says
of the towers, “I did not go very close
to the burial place, but I have been
assured by those who have ascertained
the fact, that the body is not permitted
to be destroyed by vultures, as is gene-
rally supposed. On the contrary, it
has an iron grating over it to preserve
it from their voracious appetites.” Cer-
tain it is, that vultures are generally
seen perched on these towers, and it
must be owned not with a look of ex-
pectancy, but in that foul gorged stupor
that tells of a full banquet. The grat-
ing slopes downwards, so that the re-
mains fall at length through a pipe into
a receptacle at the bottom.
An inferior Fire Temple may be seen
on the road to Malabar Point, about
half-way between it and the Fort.
There is no objection whatever made
to a stranger visiting it. The building
is about 8 ft. long and 5 ft. broad, wit
a pent roof, small iron-grated windows,
and a door strongly padlocked. The
smoke has no means of escaping but
through the windows. The fire, which
is never suffered to die out, is fed with
the sweetest kinds of wood, and it is a
crime to throw any impure substances
into it. Perfumes, as is well known,
hold an important place in the worship
prescribed by Zartasht. There are also
two very sacred fire-temples in the
* See Ovington, on the Dokhmus at Surat.
Fort, but it is not permitted to strangers
to enter them. They are described as
merely spacious halls, with a central
arch over the sacred fire.
The temple of Mahd Lakshmi at
Breach Candy is a fine pagoda, much
frequented and venerated by the Hindas,
who do not like it to be profaned by
the steps of unbelievers. Near it is a
large temple sacred to Shiva, which is
more accessible. Breach Candy (per-
haps a corruption of Burj Khind, “the
pass of the tower”), where these pagodas
are situated, was, within the last 50
years, overflowed by the sea, as the name
imports. Candy may, however, be a
corruption of Khari, “saltwater creek.”
The Causeway, a little farther on, is
a fine stone embankment, about half
a mile in length, built in Governor
Hornby's time, between 1776–1780.
4. Lowji Castle, the seat of the Lowji
family, and Sir Jamshidji Jijibhai's
house may be visited en route to Parell.
The road from the Fort leads through
the Bhendi Bāzār thronged with Marā-
thas, Parsis, Müghuls, English sailors,
Arabs, Portuguese, and the natives of
many other countries in their costumes
of various kinds and colors. It is a
strange sight to see, as soon as night
falls, all the upper rooms of the houses
along this bázár, lit up, while, every
window is crowded with females in
gaudy dresses, a scene, to the traveller,
strangely contradictory of woman’s se-
clusion in the East. The fact is, the
upper rooms in most of these houses
are inhabited by women of the Nách
girl caste, but of the very lowest descrip-
tion; and the police apparently care for
none of these things.
But it is right to give here a general
description of the bázárs in Bombay, of
which there are several.
The Great Bazars.—Basil Hall has
well described the bāzārs of Bombay,
but we extract the following account
from an equally lively writer (Mrs.
Postans, Western India):—“Offensive
to every sense, as the dust and noise of
these crowded ways must be, steaming
under the noontide influence of a tropic
sun, ’tis worth the cost, to stop a mo-
ment at the entrance of a great bázár,


Bomba/y.
283
ROUTE 1.iBOMBAY--LOWJT CASTLE.
and looking along the wide and busy
way, watch the full tide of human be-
ings, jostling, and vociferating against
each other, as the throng presses on-
wards, each individual animated with
the object of labor or of profit. More
strange and interesting is it still, to
move among the groups, and, passing,
mark the varied characters which form
the living mass. To a stranger’s eye,
the chintz bazar will afford the most
curious scene ; the road skirts that par-
ticular portion of the bay occupied by
native shipping, and is wholly devoted
to the purposes of commerce. Here,
indeed, is a ‘mart of nations,’ where
the genius of traffic reigns triumphant,
and the merchandize and produce of all
nations of the East seem garnered in
one common store, awaiting an escort
to the lands where the arts and manu-
factures of civilized life will increase the
value of nature’s gifts. Piles of rich
gums and aromatic spices, carboys of oil
and rose water, pure ivory from the
forests of Ceylon, rhinoceros hides from
the burnin coast of Zanzibar, the richest
produce o Africa, India, Persia, and
Arabia, is here cast in large heaps, ming-
ling with Coir cables, huge blocks, and
ponderous anchors, the requisite mate-
riel of island exportation. On the high-
way, porters bending beneath square
bales of ti htly compressed cotton, stag-
ger to an fro, as if overpowered with
their loads ; Arabs with ponderous
turbans of finely checked cloth, and
Aabas loosely flowing, lounge lazily
along; Persians in silken vests, with
black lamb skin caps, the softest pro-
duce of Bokhara, tower above the crowd;
Banians, dirty and bustling, wearing red
turbans bristling with pens and memo-
randa, jostle roughly to the right and
left; Bangies with suspended bales, or
well-filled water vessels; Fakirs from
every part of India; Jains in their snowy
vests, with staff and brush, like palmers
of the olden time; Padres with round
black hats and sable cloaks; Jews of the
tribe of Beni Israel, all mingle in the
throng; while ever and again, a bullock
hackeric struggles against the mass, or
a Parsee, dashing onwards in his gaily
painted buggy, forces an avenue for an

instant, when the eager crowd, rapidly
closing in its rear, sweeps on a resistless
torrent as before. The Arab stables,
which occupy a considerable space in
the great bazar, form a powerful attrac-
tion to the gentlemen of the Presidency.
Military men, of whatever rank, in India,
consider it necessary to possess at least
a couple of horses. Colts being usually
preferred for a new purchase, the stables
are eagerly resorted to whenever a fresh
importation arrives from the gulf.”
After passing the Bhcndi bazar, the
next obyect of interest is Bycullah
Church on the left, built by Augus-
tino, of whom mention has been
made above (see Town Hall), and the
Orphan Schools. Lowji Castle stands,
about half way up, on Chichpugli
(“ little tamarind grove") Hill, the
railway passing close to the W. of it.
A spacious hall and a flight of broad
and handsome stairs lead to a magnifi-
cent drawing-room, decorated with the
utmost richness. The European visitor
is struck, perhaps, more with the over-
crowding of the beautiful chandeliers
and the furniture generally than with
the richness of the articles themselves.
The walls are covered with paintings,
among which are full length portraits
of Lord Nelson and Sir C. Forbes.
Indeed Sir C. Forbes deserves to ap ear
among the Larcs of this family. or-
muzdyi, the father of the present owners,
was engaged with the house of Forbes
and Co. in mercantile transactions, and
was highly esteemed by Sir Charles.
Just before his death, by an unfor-
tunate speculation, he lost £200,000,
so that the property was about to be
sold, and a family, which had so long
held the highest position in Bombay,
would have been ruined. Sir C. Forbes
came forward in this urgent need, ad-
vanced money so as to admit of the
property being retained, protected and
promoted the interests of the orphan
sons, and enabled them to clear them-
selves of their embarrassments. It de-
serves also to be recorded of Sir C.
Forbes, that, objecting to the opium
trade on conscientious motives, he re-
stricted his house from trading in that
pernicious drug It may be said, with-


284
Sect. I.
ROUTE l..—-BOMB.-\Y—-ELPIIINSTONE INSTITUTION.
out exaggeration, that he had magna-
nimity enough to reject millions rather
than sacrifice his principles. Lowjf
Castle may be taken as a specimen of
the other great Parsi houses.
Government Home at Parell was a
Portuguese place of worship and monas-
tery, confiseated by the English Govern-
ment, on account of the traitorous con-
duct of the Jesuits in 1720. Governor
Hornby was the first who took up his
residence there, between 1771-1780. It
remained in statu qua till the expiration
of Sir Evan Nepean’s government.
VVhen that Governor quitted Bombay
in 1819, he left a minute regretting
that he had been compelled by the
necessities of Government to neglect the
house at Parcll. To supply the required
accommodation, Mr. Elphinstone built
the right and left wings. In the right
wing are the apartments belonging to
the Governor and his family, in the
left are those appropriated to the aides-
de-camp and stafl‘. The public rooms
are in the centre facing the W. The
dining room below, where also the
Governor holds his public breakfasts, is
86 ft. long by 30 broad, with a fine
verandah on three sides, about 10ft.
broad. Above the dining room is a
drawing room, or ball room, of corres-
ponding dimensions, with a similar
verandah. The verandah below is open,
and that above is closed. These rooms
occupy the place of the old Portuguese
chapel. The altar was where the billiard
table is now, in the recess at the end of
the hall. In the ball room is a full
length portrait of the MarquessWellesley,
by Home, an artist of Calcutta. The
likeness is good and the painting excel-
lent. On the landing place of the very
handsome stone staircase is a valuable
marble bust of the Great Duke. For
these memorials of two such eminent
statesmen, under the latter of whom Mr.
Elphinstone served as Political Assistant
throughout the brilliant campaign of
1803-4, it has been asserted his suc-
cessors are indebted to the private
liberality of Mr. Elphinstone. The
garden of Parcll is pretty, and has at
its E. extremity a tank, and on its
margin a noble terrace, which rises

about 10 ft. above the water and the
grounds. It is here that native visitors
of distinction are entertained on royal
birthdays and other festivals, and from
this spot they witness the display of
fireworks.
The Botanical Garden was opened in
1830, under the auspices and munificent
patronage of Mr. Farish, long a distin-
guished member of the Government of
Bombay, su ported by Mr. Vaupell,
Dr. Heddle, Captains Pringle and Dick-
inson, Mr. Graham (see Khandala), and
other gentlemen. The person, however,
possessed of the greatest botanical know-
ledge, and to whom reference has been
generally made in all matters of doubt
and difiicult , is Mr. Nimmo, late trans-
lator to the upreme Court. The garden
is in a sheltered spot under Flag-staff
Hill. It is on a limited scale in point
of extent.
5. The Elphinstone Institution stands
next to the Racket Court, at the entrance
of the native town beyond the Esplanade.
It is a plain building with two stories.
It was founded at a meeting of the
rich inhabitants of Bombay, held in the
Theatre, to do honor to Mr. Elphinstone
at the close of his government in 1826,
when the largest subscription ever col-
lected for one purpose‘ in India was
raised, amounting to £26,000, which
defrayed the cost of a fine service of
plate presented to Mr. Elphinstone, and
the remainder, with a correspondin sum
from the Company, endowed this nsti-
tution. A considerable time elapsed,
however, before the Court were induced
to grant the said money. The exhibi-
tions of the College are held in a room
adjoining the Librar of the Asiatic
Society 111 the Town all. The Native
Education Society’s schools have for the
present merged into the Elphinstone
Institution. There are 18 scholarships,
endowed by subscriptions in honor of
Messrs. Farish, Reid, Anderson, and
others who have filled im ortant offices
at Bombay. The success l candidates
receive 10 rupees a month for three
years. Pupils from the out-stations of
Dharwad and Pfinah are eligible for
scholarships. There are belonging to
the N.E. Society's schools full length


Bombay.
285
ROUTE l..—BOMBAY'—Tl1E GRANT COLLEGE.
portraits of Sir J. Malcolm, Mr. Elphin-
stone, and Colonel G. Jervis, the great
benefactors of the Institution. The
picture of Sir J. Malcolm is little to be
commended, but that of Mr. Elphinstone
is by Sir T. Lawrence, and in his best
style. Mr. Elphinstone is represented
seated in his chair, with his countenance
lighted n with that benevolence which
was his c aractelistic.
The Grant College stands next to the
Sadr ’Adalat, the Company's Supreme
Court of Judicature, formerly the resi-
dence of Sir J. Mackintosh, close to the
Babula Tank on the way to Bycullah.
It was founded in the memory of Sir
Robert Grant, by subscription, at a.
meeting held on the occasion of his
lamented death in 1837. Government
gave an e ual sum. The foundation
stone was aid on the 30th of March,
1843. The building is of one story,
with a castellated front. In the centre
is a fine archwa , the top of the arch,
about 25 ft. high, rising to a level with
the to windows in the story. Over
the are are three windows. This col-
lege has been admitted by the Royal
College of Surgeons among the colonial
hospitals recognised by that body.-
Medical instruction is here given ‘a-
tuitously to natives. The Principal ec-
tures on the theory and practice of
medicine, and there are separate Pro-
fessors for Chemistry, Anatomy, and
Physiolog , Surgery and Clinical Sur-
gery, M1 wifery, Materia Jlledica, and
edical Jurisprudence. Close b is the
Jamshidji Hospital, founded
Parsi gentleman whose name it
at a cost of £17,000.
date 300 patients.
The Population of Bomba , according
to the census of 1849, is as ollows :—
Jains, Lingayats, or Buddhists 1,902
Brahmans ...................... .. 6,936
Hindus of other castes 289,995
the
ears,
It can accommo-


Muhaminadans ....... 124,155
Parsfs (over-rated).... 114,698
Jews ............................ .. 1,132
Native Christians (this head is,
no doubt, considerably un-
der-rated)
. . 7.456 ‘
Indo-Britons ..... . .
1,333 ‘



Indo-Portuguese .. .. 5,417


Pure European (including sol-
diers ................... .. 5,088
Sidi, lgro, ' . 889
Othercastes................. ..... .. 7,118
566,119
For a description of the peculiarities of
some of these castes, see Preliminary
Information, Bombay.
Places of Worship. — Besides the
Cathedral, there is also in the Fort
the Presbyterian St. Andrew's Church.
Other Churches are Christ's Church, at
Byeullah; the Kabul Memorial Church,
at Kolaba; Trinity Church, at Sona-
pfir; the Free Church of Scotland, on
the Esplanade; the Free Church Mis-
sion House, at Ambroli ; and the Ame-
rican Mission Chapel. The principal
Roman Catholic places of worship are
the Cathedral at Maza iron; St. Sal-
vacao, in the Mahim oods (in the
front is a fine tank and the ruins of
the college be n, but not finished, by
Sir Minguel e Souza); and Mahim
Church. The Roman Catholic Bishop
of Bomba ’s residence is in Medows-
street, an next to it is the Armenian
Chapel. Service in the Protestant
churches, on Sundays, is at 11 a.m. and
6 p.m.
The principal Daily Papers are the
Bombay Times (which dates from 1838),
edited for 18 years b the talented Dr.
Buist, who has just een removed by a
native clique ; Dr. Buist’s Bombay Times,
a new paper; the Bombay Gazette (which,
with mtermissions, dates from 1789);
the Telegraph, formerly the, Courier
(1792). The Bombay Calendar and
Almanac will supply the traveller with
all the information he can possibly need
respecting the island.
Places of Amusement.--Among the
places of amusement, the Racket Court
must not be omitted. It stands next
the Elphinstone Institution, and was
built by subscription, and finished in
1825. The Theatre originally stood,
ad'oining what is still the Fire Engine
O cc, in the Fort. It was built as
early as 1770. Government, however,
resumed the land, makin compensation
for the same, and the '1 eatre was, in


286
Sect. I.
ROUTE 1.-BOMBAY-ELEPHANTA.
1845, removed to Kómatipura, near the
Grant-road.
Of sights within the immediate
vicinity of Bombay, the most curious
is certainly that of Elephanta, to which
the traveller must allot one day.
Elephanta, called by the natives Ghd-
rapuri (“the town of the rock,” or
“of purification,” according to Dr. Wil-
son)—according to the Rev. J. Steven-
son, Journal of the Bombay Asiatic
Society, for July, 1852, Art. iv., Gara-
puri, “the town of excavations,”—is
a small island, distant about six miles
from the Fort of Bombay. The caves
are called Lenen £ by the na-
tives, a word used throughout India
and Ceylon for these excavations, most
probably on account of the first of
them being intended for hermitages
of Buddhist ascetics. The traveller
will take a bandar boat at the Apollo
Pier, which is most accessible at low
water, and, next to the Mazagãon
bandar, most convenient for embark-
ing. At the other piers, passengers
must be carried on board at low tides.
For a bandar boat with thirteen men,
the hire to Elephanta is five rupees;
for a boat with eleven men, four rupees;
and for one with seven men, three
rupees. With a favorable wind and
tide, the run is made in three-quarters
of an hour. Butcher's Island, where
quarantine is performed, is passed on
the way. The island of Elephanta is,
according to Forbes, three miles; ac-
cording to Erskine, six miles in circum-
ference. This difference in measure-
ment arises from the islet being twice
the size at low water that it is at high,
In low tides, passengers are carried
ashore through a swamp. The island
is covered with low corinda bushes. It
consists of two long hills, with a narrow
valley between them. The usual land-
ing-place was formerly towards the
S.W., where the valley is broadest.
About 250 yards to the right of the
landing-place, on the rise of one of the
hills, and not far from the ruins of the
Portuguese building, is a now shapeless
mass of rock, which was cut into the
shape of an £ of the following
dimensions, which we give as a specimen
of native knowledge of proportion at
the remote age when the figure was
sculptured:– FT. IN.
Length from the forehead to
the root of the tail........ .... 13 2
Height at head.................. 7 4
Whole circumference at shoul-
ders ...................... 35 5
Ditto round four legs............ 32 0
Breadth of back across rump... 8 0
Girth of body about the middle 20 2
Height of left hind foot......... 5 6
Circumference of right fore foot 6 74
—— hind foot 6 3
Circumference of left hind foot 7 7
— fore foot 7 3
Height of stone support to
sustain belly..................... 2 2
Length of tail.......... ... 7 9
Circumference of tail............ 2 10
From top of brow to curve of
trunk ........................... 5 3
Length of trunk from between
tusks
Left ditto...........................
Pyke in 1712, and Anquetil in 1760,
represented the elephant as having
another smaller one on its back. In
-1764, Niebuhr reported that there
were the remains of something on the
back, but that it was impossible to
distinguish what it was. Basil Hall,
however, conjectured, and no doubt
correctly, that the smaller animal was a
tiger. r. Erskine (Transactions of the
Bombay Literary Society, vol. i.) gives
the following dimensions: length, 4 ft.
7 in. ; distance of two hind paws,
3 ft. 6 in. ; breadth of body, 1 ft. 2 in.
In September, 1814, the head and neck
of the elephant dropped off, and the
body, which had a huge crack down the
back, sank down, and threatened to fall.
Advancing up the valley, which grows
more and more narrow, at a place where
the two hills approach so close as to
leave only a steep gulley between them,
is the spot where £ in 1673, found
a stone horse, which had sunk into the
earth up to the belly. It still remained
in 1712, but disappeared in 1784. There
is, however, now a staircase leadin
directly to the excavations from the $
The following description is extracted


Bombay.
287
nonrn 1.-—BOMI)AY——ELl:IPIIANTA.
~ taches piece after piece from the fi
chiefly from Mr. Erskine’s paper in the
Transactions of the Bombay Literary
Society above alluded to:—
“Ascendin the narrow path where the
two hills aredrnit together, we at length
come to a beautiful and rich prospect of
the northern part of the island, of the
sea, and the opposite shores of Salsette.
Advancing forward, and keeping to the
left along the bend of the hill, we gra-
dually mount to an open space, and come
suddenly on the grand entrance of a
magnificent temple, whose huge massy
columns seem to give support to the
whole mountain which rises above it.
The time when these caves were ex-
cavated can only yet be guessed at, but
it is supposed that it must have been
some time between the eighth and twelfth
centuries of the Christian era. The
main reason for this supposition is, that
from inscriptions and tablets found in
various parts of Southern India, and
architectural structures whose age is
known, it seems that the religious system
to which the carved images and architec-
tural embellishments belong, had not
gained much currency before the first
mentioned of those eras; and, owing to
their conflicts with the Muhammadans,
the Hindfi Rajas, it is surmised, would
not be able to give attention to such
works after the last mentioned period.
The rock, also, out of which the caves
are excavated, being full of rents, the
water penetrates through it, and de-
gures,
so as to threaten to destroy them one
day altogether. This process, then, it
is conjectured, if the caves had been of
very ancient date, would by this time
have occasioned a greater degree of
damage than we find has actually taken
place. This damage, since the caves
were first described by Niebuhr, has
been very considerable, and several
Europeans in Bombay can testify that
even during the last quarter of a cen-
tury it has been by no means imma-
tenal.
The entrance into the temple, which is
entirely hewn out of a stone resembling
porplzlyrg, is by a spacious front sup-
porte y two massy pillars and two
pilasters forming three openings, under

a thick and steep rock overhung by
brushwood and wild shrubs. The Whole
excavation consists of three principal
parts: the great temple itself, which is
m the centre, and two smaller chapels,
one on each side of the great temple.
These two chapels do not come forward
into a straight line with the front of the
chief temple, are not perceived on ap-
proaching the temple, and are consider-
ably in recess, being approached by two
narrow passes in the hill, one on each
side of the grand entrance, but at some
distance from it. After advancing to
some distance up these confined passes,
we find each of them conduct to another
front of the grand excavation, exactly
like the principal front which is first
seen, all the three fronts being hollowed
out of the solid rock, and each consist-
ing of two huge illars with two pilas-
ters. The two si e fronts are precisely
opposite to each other on the east and
west, the grand entrance facing the
north. The two wings of the temple
are at the upper end of these passages,
and are close by the grand excavation,
but have no covered passage to connect
them with it.
The left side of the cave, that is the
side on which the square temple is
situated, is 130 ft. 8 in. in length, while
the right side is only 128 ft. 4 in.
Varieties of this kind are observable in
every other part;--some of the pillars
are situated from each other at a. dis-
tance only of 12 ft. 10 iu., others are
separated to 16 ft. 4% in. ; some of them
at 15 ft. 3 in., others at 13 ft. 2in.,
others at 14 ft. 3 in., and so on; nor is
the size of the pillars themselves less
various; the side of the pedestals being
some of them 3 ft. 3 in., others 3 ft.
4 in., others 3 ft. 5 in., and others 3 ft.
6 in.
The great temple is about 130; feet
long, measuring from the chief entrance
to the furthest end of the cave, and 130
feet broad from the eastern to the
western entrance. It rests on 26 pillars
(eight of them now broken) and 16
pilasters; and neither the floor nor the
roof being in one plane, it varies in
height from 17! to 15 feet. The plan
is regular, there being eight pillars and


288
Sect. I.
ROUTE l.iBOMBAY—THE LINGA CHAPEL.
pilasters in a line from the northern
entrance to the southern extreme of the
temple, and the same number from the
eastern to the western entrances. The
only striking deviation from this regu-
larity in the chief temple, is the small
square excavation that is seen as we go
up the temple on the right: it occupies
the place of four pillars and of the in-
termediate space inclosed between them,
as if a veil had been drawn around
them, and the s ot so inclosed divided
from the rest 0 the temple. At the
furthest extremity there are two small
excavations facing each other, the one
on the right the other on the left; their
use is not well ascertained: they were
probably employed for keeping the holy
utensils and offerings. The excavation
presents to the eye the appearance of
perfect regularity, which it is not found
to possess when accurately examined.
The pillars, which all appear to run in
straight lines parallel to each other,
and at equal distances, are crossed by
other ranges running at right angles in
the opposite direction; they are strong
and massy, of an order remarkably well
adapted to their situation and the pur-
pose which theyare to serve, and have
an appearance of very considerable ele-
ance. They are not all of the same
orin, but difl'cr both in their size and
ornaments, though this difference also
does not at first strike the eye. They
rise to upwards of half their height
from a square pedestal, generally about
three feet five inches each way, crowned
on the top by a broad bandage of the
same shape: above this, but divided
from it by a circular astragal and two
olygonic fillets, rises a short round
uted shaft, formin about a fourth of
the column and diminishing with a
curve towards the top, where a circular
cincture of beads binds round it a fillet
composed of an ornament resembling
leaves, or rather cusps, the lower ex-
tremity of which appears below the
cincture, while the superior extremity
rises above, projecting and terminating
gracefully in a circle of over-hanging
leaves or cusps. A narrow band divides
this ornament from the round fluted
compressed cushion, which may be re-

garded as the capital of the column,
and as giving it its character: its fluted
form coalesces beautifully with the fluted
shaft below. This cushion has its cir-
cumference bound by a thin flat band
or fillet, as i.f to retain it; and above
supports a square plinth, on which rests
the architrave that slopes away on each
side in scrolls connected by a band or
riband, till it meets the large trans-
verse beam of rock which connects the
range of pillars.
The Linga 0ha42el.—The great cave
at Elephants. is what the Hindiis call a
Shiva Linga (Sheewa Ling) Temple, a.
class of sacred buildings very common
in Southern and Central India. Many
of the brahmans in Bombay will not
acknowledge its claim to this honour,
and the place is now nearly deserted.
They, with other natives, maintain that
this and all the rest of the excavations
around are the works of the sons of
Pandii, who constructed them while
wandering about the country in banish-
ment from their native land. They
ima 'ne these excavations works far too
mig ty for the degenerate mortals of our
day. The reason why this tem le has
been deserted may have been t e un-
healthiness of the island, which, during
certain seasons of the year, is very pro-
lific of ague ; or erhaps the first Euro-
peans may have esecrated the images,
and led the Hindus to abandon them.
Although the current tradition that the
Portuguese fired into the cave from the
ofiing, and hauled guns up the hill to
its mouth to destroy the idols, is absurd,
and could never, even if true, account
for the actual damage done, asevery
visitor may easily satis himself; still
it is not improbable t at they dese-
crated the lace, and that hence arose
those pop ar stories. The great cave
is nevertheless still visited by Hindus,
especially of the Banyan caste, on the
eat festivals of Shiva, and the great
ing is worshipped on these occasions
by crowds of devotees.
After entering the great cave from
the usual entrance on the north, the
popular object of worshi , which more
particularly attracts the evotees above
mentioned, is seen about half-way up


Bombay.
289
ROUTE l.—BOMBAY-‘THE LINGA CHAPEL.
on the right hand, or towards the west
of the cave. It is a conical stone called
the Ling, and is enclosed in a square
chapel with four doors, facing the
four rincipal directions. The Ling is
lnten ed to represent Shiva in his cha-
racter of the prolific power of nature.
Around this chapel on the outside are a
number of large figures, representing
door-keepers, who are supposed to be
high caste Hindfis. They lean on
dwarfs, intended for low caste men, but
called by the Hindfis ishach (peesha-
chas), or demons. This ing, then, is the
principal object of popular worshi . All
the other figures in this excavate tem-
ple are to be considered merely as sub-
sidiary to this, and might rather be
compared to our historical frescoes in
Europe than to anything else. At most
they can but be considered analogous to
the pictures in churches in Southern
Europe, additional to the altar-piece,
which receive a degree of homage far
inferior to that reserved for the patron
saint.
Three-faced Bust, or Trimurti.—The
chief of the mural figures is the immense
three-faced bust, 19 ft. in height, which
faces the northern entrance. It is the
representation of Shiva in his three-
fold character of Brahma, Vishnu, and
Rudra. The Hindfi notion of the
deity is, that God is essentially one, but
that, when the time for the renewal of
the world arrives, he causes to emanate
from his essence three impersonations of
the divinity, one who creates, a second
who preserves, andathird who destroys.
The three-faced figure, then, called by
the Hindiis a Trimurti (Treemoortee),
is intended to represent these three gods,
who emanate from the one divinity, and
still continue united in him. According
to the system of Hindiiism followed in
these sculptures, the eternal divinity is
Shiva, in another system it is Vishnu,
and in a third the principal goddess of the
Hindfis. Shiva is sometimes represented
with five faces, and it has been surmised
that this three-faced bust is intended to
represent him in that form, one of the
heads being hid behind, and another
above; but in those figures part of all
the five faces are visible, four arranged

round the head, and one peeping out
from the crown before the knot of twisted
hair. In the other figures, especially
that of Brahma, as carved in these caves,
a portion of all the faces any being is
supposed to have are always represented.
We do not, then, need to go to the
Greek and Roman representations of the
three-faced Hecate, as preserved in an-
cient sculptures, for an illustration of the
theory for which we contend, when we
find it universally adopted by Hllldli
artists, and even in these very caves.
The bust, then, represents a. three-faced
od.
g The central face—the one that im-
mediately fronts the spectator in this
triple bust—-is intended for Shiva in
the character of Brahma, the Creator.
Brahma, again, is, perhaps, the im-
personation of the brahman ca.ste,—
the originator of all the sacred rites
and ceremonies of the Hindfis. He is
represented as an ascctic brahman, with
his characteristic gourd in one hand, to
serve for a drinkin vessel. The face to
the spectator’s rig t, and to the left of
the bust, is Shiva in the form of Vishnu
the Preserver; he has here his unfailing
mark, a full-blown lotus, in his right
hand. To the right of the bust, again,
or to the spectator’s left, Shiva appears as
Rudra, Le. the Destroyer, which IS gene-
rally considercd to be his proper cha-
racter. He is smiling on a cobra capella,
which is twisted round his arm, and with
expanded hood looking him full in the
face. A swelling on his forehead is his
third c e, from which is to burst the
flame t at will consume at last the
world. Among the ornaments of his
cap are a death’s skull, a leaf of the
nirgudi, and a branch of the bilca tree,
all peculiar characteristics of this god.
The lar e figures at the portals are
Hindfi (fiber-kee ers, and they lean, as
before, on dwar s, called by the natives
pishach, or demons, probably carica-
tures of the rude aborigines or hill
tribes of the country.
Ardha/ndriskwar, or Half Male Half
Female .Divim't_z/.—In the first compart-
ment to the right of the central figure,
or to the spectator’s left, there is an ex-
hibition of Shiva in his character of
13


290
Sect. I.
ROUTE 1.—B0l\IBAY-—THE LINGA CHAPEL.
Ardhanaiishwar. The right half of the
figure is intended to be that of a male,
and the left that of a female, and thus to
represent Shiva as uniting the two sexes
in his one person. The first European
visitors supposed this fi e to be in-
tended for an Amazon, transferring the
traditions of Greece to India. N 0 such
being is known, however, to Indian
mythology, while such a manifestation
of Shiva as we have mentioned is de-
scribed in the Puranas. The bull on
which two of the hands of the figure
lean, and on which it is supposed to ride,
is called N andi, a constant attendant on
Shiva. Brahma, on his lotus throne,
supported by five swans, and with his
four faces, is exhibited on the right of
the figure. He has a portion of all
these faces visible. On the left, Vishnu
is seen riding on what is now a head-
less Garuda, a fabulous creature, half
man half eagle. Above and in the
back-ground are found a number of
inferior gods and sages of the Hindus.
Indra, king of the old gods—those wor-
shipped in ancient times—appears there
mounted on an elephant.
Shiva and Pu'ruatz'.—In the compart-
ment next on the lcft of the 1'1-imurti
are two gigantic figures of Shiva and
Parvati, the former 16ft. high, the
latter 12ft. 4in. Shiva has a very
curious cap, on which the crescent and
other ornaments are sculptured, and
from the top of which issues something
which looks like a foam-crested wave,
from which arise three female heads, to
represent the Ganga Proper, the Ya-
muna, and Saraswati, which three
streams unite at Pi-ayagah, or Allaha-
bad, and form the Gan es. According
to a well-known Hin u legend, the
Ganges flowed from the head of Shiva.
The god is standin , and has four arms,
of which the outcrdcft rests on a pi.vhd-
chah, who seems to bend under the
weight. Niebuhr mistook the twisted
hair of this dwarf for a turban, whereas,
as is worthy of remark, there is no such
head-dress on any figure at Elephanta,
and it is altogether i nored in ancient
Hindu books. In t e dwarf’s right
hand is a cobra, in his left a ehauri;
from his neck hangs a necklace, the
ornament of which is a tortoise. On
Shiva’s right are several attendants, and
above them Brahma, sculptured much
as in the compartment on the right of
the Trimarti. Between Brahma and
Shiva is Indra on his elephant Airava-
tah, which appears to be kneeling. Pur-
vati leans slightly from left to right,
towards Shiva, and is represented with
very full breasts. Her left hand rests
on a female pishdehah, above whom is
Vishnu on Garur_la,.with the sectarial
mark and a snake tied like a ncckcloth.
Above is a group of six figures, two of
which are females.
Marriage of Shiva and .Pa'ri=atz'.——
Proceedin still to the left of the Tri-
marti, an in a westerly direction, the
visitor comes to the compartment repre-
senting Shiva’s marriage, as Pyke and
Moor were the first to discover. Mr.
Erskine, however, in mentioning their
conjecture, adds, “though, from the
most careful inspection of the sculpture,
I can perceive nothing to favor the sup-
position.” This remark from so learned
an Orientalist, is the more singular, as
the position of Parvati on the right of
Shiva would alone o far to prove it to
be the delineation o her bridal; it being
well known that to stand on the right
of her husband, and to eat with him are
privileges vouchsafed to a Hindu wife
only on her wedding-day. In the cor-
ner, at the right of Pérvati, is Brahma,
known by his four faces, sitting and
reading the sacred texts suited to the
occasion. Above, on Shiva’s left, is
Vishnu. Among the attendants on the
right of Pérvati is one bearing a vessel,
supposed to be filled with sugar-plums,
as is the custom still in Bombay on
such occasions. Behind the goddess is
a priest, who is pushing her forward to
overcome her bashfulness.
Birth of Garteshah, Shiva’s eldest son.
—In the corresponding compartment, to
the east and right of the Trimurti,
Shiva and Parvati are seated together,
with groups of male and female inferior
divinities showering down flowers from
above, the rock being cut into various
shapes to represent the clouds of Kailas,
Shiva’s heaven. At Shiva’s feet is the
skeleton figure of Bhringi, one of his


Bombay.
291
ROUTE 1.'—-BOMBAY-—THE LINGA CHAPEL.
favorites ; and behind Parvati is a female
with a. child a-straddle on her left hip.
This child, accordin to Stevenson, is
Vinayaka, or Ganes , though Erskine
supposes it to be Kartikeyah. Beneath
is N andi and the tiger on which Par-
vati rides, with a piskdclmh lifting up
its leg. Two skeleton Kishis, the one
on the left holding a basket, may be
remarked in the clouds.
Rzivanah attempting to remove Kailds.
—The visitor must now face completely
round, and look to the north instead of
the south, and, advancing a few paces,
he will come in front of the sixth com-
partment, which is to the right of the
eastern entrance. Here Ravan, the
demon king of Lanka, or Ceylon, is
attemptin to remove Kailés, the
heavenly hill of Shiva, to his own king-
dom, in order that he may have his
tutelary deity always with him, for
Ravan was ever a worshi per of Shiva.
Ravan has ten heads an arms, and is
with his back to the spectator. Shiva
is seen in Kailas, with Parvati on his
right, and votaries and Bishis in the
background. On the left of Shiva, who
is represented with eight arms, his third
eye, and the crescent on his cap, is
Vishnu on Garuda, Ganesh, and Bhringi,
and in the recess is the Vdlwma, or
vehicle of Parvati, a tiger crouched on
its paws. Two of Shiva’s attendants,
on opposite sides of the compartment,
have the eye on the forehead, and one
has a death’s head on his cap, “for,”
says the Shiv-Gita, “he who worships
me disinterestedly, by knowin me gains
myform.” The legend runst at Ravan
shook Kailas so much, that Parvati was
alarmed, whereupon Shiva pressed down
the hill with one of his toes on the head
of Ravan, who remained immovable for
10,000 years, till his grandfather, Pu-
lasti, the son of Brahma, taught him
how to propitiate Shiva, and thus eifected
his release. Ravan afterwards ever re-
mained a worshipper of Shiva. In this
tale is depicted the devotion of the abori-
ginal races to the worship of the destroy-
ing god.
Dakg/m’.s sacrifice destroyed.—The
visitor must now cross over to the oppo-
site side, passing the Linga chapel, in

order to arrive at the oorreponding
compartment on the west to that just
described on the east. Here is repre-
sented the sacrifice of Daksha, a le end
very famous in Hindfim thology, W 'ch
is twice depicted at E ora, and more
than once at the Amboli caves in Sal-
sette. Daksha, a son of Brahma, born
from the thumb of his right hand for
the purpose of peopling the world, had
60 daughters, of whom 27 are the
nymphs of the lunar asterisms. Another
of them, named Sati or Durga, married
Shiva, and 17 were married to Kasyapa,
and were the mothers of all created
beings. On one occasion, Daksha be-
gan a sacrifice according to the ancient
aidik ritual, and as the gods of the
Vedas alone were invited, Shiva and
his wife were not asked to attend. Sati
went, nevertheless, unbid, and being
badly received, threw herself into the
fire, whereupon Shiva made his ap-
pearance in his most terrific form
as Vira Bhadra, which manifestation
of the od here forms the rincipal
figure 0 the tableau. He 'spersed
the ods and other attendants of the
sacri ce, and seizin Daksha with one
hand, decapitated him with another,
while in a third he held a cup, into
which spouted the blood. The head
was hacked to pieces; but when Shiva’s
wrath was appeased, he put the head of
a ram on Daksha’s body, thus kee ing
him ever in mind of the power o his
decapitator. Vira Bhadra has here
eight arms, three of which are occu-
pied in slaughtering Daksha, two are
stretched ‘up, and three are broken off.
The face of the god is distorted with
rage, long tusks roject on either side
of his mouth, an a necklace of human
heads passes over his left shoulder and
thigh, and returns by his right thigh.
On the right of Vfra Bhadra is an
ele hant, around are the gods in atti-
tu es expressive of fear, and above are
ten figures, two of which are children.
They are seated in devotion round a
curious bottle-shaped figure, which is
the Lingam, or Phallus, and is exactly
over the head of Vira Bhadra. On it
is a curious character, which Erskine
and Stevenson suppose to be the mystic


292
Sect. I.
‘ ROUTE l.—-BOMBAY—THE LINGA CHAPEL.
Om, a-monosyllable which contains let-
ters from the names of Mahadeo, Vishnu,
and Brahma. The whole group refers
to the contest between the followers
of the ancient Hindu ritual and the
worshippers of Shiva, which latter pre-
vailed.
Bhairava. — Advancin
trance of the cave, an still on the
same side, the visitor comes to another
compartment. Here Shiva appears in
his terrific form of Bhairava, which he
assumed to outdo the incarnation of
Vishnu as N arsinha, the man-lion.
Above is a very perfect Ganesh with
elephant head. Bhairava has eight
a.rms, which are all broken but one.
Beneath is Bhringi with his skeleton
form, and on the right is an attendant
withithe crescent on his cap, and a
skull, from the right eye of which a
cobra issues. The appearance of con-
flict is avoided, perhaps in deference to
the numerous worshippers of Vishnu.
Shiva as rm Ascetic.—If the visitor
now turns and advances a little, he will
come in front of the last group, which
is to the left of the grand entrance.
Here Shiva a pears as a Yogi, and the
figure so much resembles Buddha, that
many describers of the cave before
Erskine thought it to be that personage.
The figure has the remains of two arms,
which appear to have rested on his lap.
It is seated on a lotus, the stalk of
which is supported by two fi res below.
The Brahmans detest Bud hism, so it
is hardl ossible that this can be a
figure o the genuine Buddh; but per-
haps it is Shiva under the form of
Buddh, for there appears to have been
some attempt to reconcile the two reli-
'ons. At the two wings of the Ellora
aves are Buddhistic excavations, a fact
which favors the supposition of an at-
tempt to unite the creeds.
So, too, Vishnu is said to have be-
come incarnate in Buddh, to deceive
mankind. Brahma is seen on the right
of the principal figure, and Vishnu, on
Garuda, on the left. There is also a
figure riding on an animal, which
Erskine conjectures to be a horse. It
has lost the head, but has a saddle,
~:-iddle cloth, and girth, like thosc used
to the en-
in Europe. If it be a horse, it is
unique in these sculptures.
Supplementary Ez'aavato'ons.—Oppo-
site the Ling chapel first described in
the face of the hill to the west, is a
small excavation dedicated to Ganesh,
who is seated at the southern extremity
with a company of Shiva's attendants.
At the eastern opening is a stair with
a few steps, on either side of which is a.
sculptured lion, leading to a small Lin
chapel, in which are no figures. Roun
the hill, a little to the south, are two
other excavations fronting the east.
These are also Ling chapels, with
Dwdrpdls sculptured outside. On a
hill opposite to the Great Cave, an ex-
cavation has been commenced, but
without much progress having been
made. Dio 0 de Couto, the Portuguese
8.11119.llSi7,lIJ.%llB 8th Decade, Book iii.,
chap. 1i., mentions that “a famous
stone over the gate of the Pagoda, as
he calls the cave of lephanta), which
had an inscription of large and well-
written characters, was sent to the King
D. John III,” and that it was lost in
Portugal. He also asserts that, in
another hill towards the east of the
great Pagoda, there was another Pagoda,
which had “ a marble porch very curi-
ously executed,” as also another in the
same hill as the great Pagoda, “about
two stone throws to the east," “ the most
stupendous work of its size.” He adds,
that these Pagodas were constructed by
a King of Kanada, named Banasur, and
that the Portu esc soldiers did all in
their power to estroy them.
Dr. Wilson traces a resemblance be-
tween some of the compartments at
Elephanta and those at Ellora, particu-
larly in that which re resents the
marriage of Shiva and En-vati, and
considers the Elephanta cave as of later
construction than that at Ellora. He
adds that the image of Devi, in the
form of a tiger, on the hill above the
caves, which IE called Uma'- Wdgesbwari,
is mentioned inthe 29th chap. of the
1st sec. of the Sahgddri Khand of the
Ska1_n_1a .P!41‘lZ'7_ld. In 1851, a subscrip-
tion of 2,000 Rs. having been raised at
Bombay, the earth was cleared from
the front of the north aisle, when two


-–-mi-
Bombay.
remarkably well-executed leogriffs of
orphyritic basalt were discovered.
heir counterpart may be seen in the
“Dhamar Lena,” at Ellora, and the
reddish basalt of which they are formed
is not found at Elephanta, but is of the
same material as that of which the
temple of Ahilyā, Bāi, at the village of
Ellora, has been built.
K. Graul, in the 3rd volume of his
travels, p. 124, et seq., gives a brief
account of his visit to the Kánhari
temples, on the 9th of January, 1850.
He drove from Bombay to Wihár,
whence it took him one and a half
hours to reach the temples. He found
a few of the cells strewn with hay,
showing that they had recently been
slept in by native pilgrims. In one,
resided a Brahman, who employed him-
self in decking one of the idols with
fresh flowers, and was himself an object
ROUTE 1.—BOMBAY-THE LINGA CHAPEL.
293
of veneration to the neighbouring vil-
lagers. He says that the temple proper,
or Chaitya, measures 88 ft. long, and
39ft, broad, and that, though neither
the figures nor the pillars can be called
tasteful, the general effect is very im-
posing. The Portuguese name of Sal-
sette, he informs us, is derived from the
salt that was prepared during the occu-
pation of the island by that people. It
was made not far from the causeway
that unites Salsette to Bombay. The
notice of these caves may be concluded
with Goethe's lines:—
“Auch diese will ich nicht verschonem,
Die tollen Höhlexcavationen,
Das dtistere # engewtuhl,
Mit Schnauz und Rüssel ein albern Spiel;
Werrickte Zierath brauerei
Es ist eine saubere Bauerei.
Nehrme sie Niemand zum Exempel,
Die Elephanten-und £h l!
Mit heiligen Grillen trieben sie Spott,
weder Natur noch Gott-
all
In Indien mócht 'ich selber leben,
Hätt es nur keine Steinhauer gegeben.”


294 Sect. I. Bombay.
PUNAH (room) DIVISION.
Preliminary Information.
1. BOUNDARIES AND GENERAL Asraer or run DIVISION——sUB-DIVISIONS
AND Crirsr Towns.-2. HISTORICAL SKETCH--OASTES—EMI’LOYMENTS or
rim Nxrrvns.
1. BOUNDARIES AND GENERAL ASPECT OF THE D1VISION—-SUB-DIVISIONS AND
CHIEF TOWNS.
THIS Division lying between N. lat. 17° 53' and 19° 26', and long. 73° 20' and
75° 10', has an area of 43,816 square miles. From its most N. to its S. extremity
it is nearly 300 miles long, but its breadth is very irregular.
It is bounded on the N. by that part of the Satpnra (Sautpoora) mountains,
which runs from the Bhil (Bheel) town of Akrani to Asirgarh (Asseergarh),
beyond which, to the N., lie Holkar’s territories. On the E., the boundary of
this Division is the Niaam's dominions, and on the W., the sea. Towards the S. it
is conterminous with the Maratha State of Kolhapur and the Belgaon
Collectorate.
The general aspect of the division above the Western Ghats which cut it into
two unequal parts, a narrow sli of 40 miles in breadth towar s the sea, called
the Konkan, and a broader ha to the East), is that of a fertile country, inter-
sected b rocky ridges, which decline gradually towards the Eastern boundary.
Here an there magnificent isolated peaks shoot up to the height of between
1,000 and 2,000 feet, man of them crowned with forts, whose crumbling walls
were once deemed im re na le. The centre part of the Division is far more dr
than Satara to the out . On the North, Khandesh is a great basin, traverse
by the Tapti from east to west; and shut in by the Satpura range of mountains
on the north; by the Ghats on the west; and on the south, by the hills, in which
is the fort of Chandfir. The climate of Khandesh and of the Konkan, are
more unhealthy than that of the other provinces, fevers in the former Collectorate
being very malignant, and the Konkan being intensely hot, and but too subject
to the ravages of cholera.
The Sub-Divisions and Uhiqf Towns of the five Collectorates comprised in this
Division are as follows :—-
rfinnn.
Taluks or Sub-Divisions from N. to S. Ohlet’ Towns. ;,.°%s§::,c§,,,y_ ;,.1Z‘,,§“§'3;',‘§,h_
1 Shiwner (Sewnere) Junfr J ooneer) 142 50 N.
2 Khed (Kheir) Khed Kheir) 116 24 N.
3 Pabal Pabal 116 24 N.E.
4 Mawal Khadk-.'al_e (Khurkaleh) 116 26 \V.
5 Haweli Pfinah (Poona) 92 ,,
6 Purandar (Poorundhar) Séswad (Sasoor) 110 18 S.E.
7 Bhimathadi (Beimthurree) Pimpalganw (Pimpulgaon) 120 28 E.
8 Indapur Barfxmati 145 53 S.E.


Altnah Div. SUB-DIVISIONS AND CHIEF TOWNS. 295
THANAH (TANNA.)
Táluks or su'." from N.W. Chief Towns. fo'',• no'n.
1 Māhim Mahim 50 32 N.W.
2 Bassein Wasai (Wussyee) 35; 15 N.W.
3 Bhiwadi (Bhewndee) Bhiwadi 29} 9 N.E.
4 Sáshthi (Salsette) Thánah (Tanna) (by Rail) 20% 3%
5 Kalyān (Callian). Kalyan (by Rail) 33} 10 E.
6 Murbåd (Morbar) Murbád 49 25 E.
7 Taloje Dahisar 28 8 S.E.
8 Panwel Panwel 22 17 S.E.
9 Nasrápur Dahiwelf 40 33 S.E.
SATARA.
Tāluks or su's from N.N.W. Chief Towns, fro£y• r:#4.
1 Wai (Wye) Waf 110 2 •
2 Jawali Medhe 121 12 N.W.
3 Sátárà Sátárá (by Nágotná and
Mhár) 133 **
4 Koregáñw Koregáñw 143 10 E.
5 Khataw Dahiwádi 168 35 E.
6 Pandharpar Pandharpur 217 84 E.
7 ańw Masur (Mussoora) 155 22 S.S.E.
8 Karhād (Kurar) Karhād 163 30 S.S.E.
9 Khānāptir (Khanpoor) Wite 177 44 S.E.
10 Walwe (Walwa) Ashte 189 56 S.S.E.
11 Vijápór, or Bijapur (Beeja-
pore) Vijápúr 245 124 E.S.E.
AHMADNAGAR.
Taluks or sub::ns from N.W. Chief Towns. no:#y. ##
1 Wandiñdori Wandiñdori 109 96 N.W.
2. Näshik (Nassuck) Nāshik (by Thánah and
Bhiwadi) 112# 87 N.W.
3 Kawnai (Kownaee) Kåwnai 100 87 N.W.
4 Chandwad (Chandore) Niphad 78 N.W.
5 Shinar (Sinnur) Shinar 85 70 N.W.
6 Patode Yewle 69 N.
7 Ankole (Ankola) Ankole (Ankola) 219 58 N.W.
8 Sangamner Sangamner 208 47 N.W.
9 Shewgáñw Shewgáñw 196 35 N.E.
10 Newäse Newäse 194 33 N.E.
11 Ráhuri Ráhuri 181 20 N.
12 Nagar Ahmadnagar 161 35
13 Parner Parner 183 22 S.W.
14 Karde Karde 198 37 S.W.
15 Korti Korti 214 53 S.
16 Jámkhed Jámkhed 204 43 S.E.
KHANDESH.
TABLE I.—Taluks as they at present stand.
Taluks or su":£ns from N.E. - Chief Towns. fro:#y. fr#h.
1 Sawaden (Sowda) Sawadeñ (Sowda) 285 76 N E.
2 Yawal Yawal 273 64 N.E.,


296 HISTORICAL sxarcn. Sect. L Bomba/3/.
3 Nasirabad (Nusseerabad) Nasfrabad (Nusseerabad) 268 59 N.E.
4 Chopadeii (Chopra Chopadeii (Cho ra) 251 42 N .E.
5 Erafidol (Erundole Erafidol (Erun ole) 245 36 E.
6 Thalncr (Talneir) Thalner (Talneir) 241 32 N.E.
7 Amalner (Amulneir) Amalner (Amulneir) 233 24 N.N.E.
S Sultanpur Shahadeii (Shada) 264 55 N.N.W
9 Nandurbar Naiidurbar 261 52 N .W.
10 Fimpainer (Pimpulneir) Piiiipalner (Pim ulneir) 257 48 W.
ll Dhuleii (Dhoolia) Dhulefi (Dhoolia 209 .
12 Jainner Jamner 277 68 S.E.
13 Chalisgaiiw Chalisgfinw 243 34 S.S.E.
14 Bhadganw Bhadganw _ 242 33 S.E.
15 Malegfiiiw (Malligaum) Maleganw (Malligaum) 241 32 S.S.W.
l6 Baglana Sat_£u_ie ' 259 50 S.\V.
ximxnrzsn. i
TABLE II.—Ta'luks according to a proposed arrangement.
Taluks or S b-Di 1 i r N35, . Di t Di t from
u to id ivons rom ch1erT°wn5' from B01s1li::;.eDl1l1l68!la(r1l)c:00liB)
1 Sawaderl (Sowda) Sawadeii (Sowda) 285 76 N .E.
2 Nasirabfid (Nusseerabad) N asirabad 268 59 N .E.
3 Thalner (Talneir) Shir-pur 261 52 N .N.E.
4 Cliopadeii (Chopra) Ohopadeii (Chopra) 251 42 N.E.
5 Dharangfiiiw (Dhurungaum) Dharanganw 243 34 N.E.
6 Amalner (Amulneir) Amalner (Amulneir) 233 24 N.N.E.
7 Sllltfinpllr Shiihaden (sllalida) 264 55 N.N.W
8 N afidurbér Naiidurbar 261 52 N.W.
9 Chiinathan Chimathfin 239 30 N.N.W
10 Pimpalner (Pimpulneir) Piiiipainer (Pimpulneir) 257 48 W.
11 Dhulcn (Dhoolia) Dhuleii (Dhoolia) 209 ,,
12 Jamner J amner 277 68 S.E.
13 Lohar Lohfir 262 53 S.E.
14 Chalis-g-.'ii'iw Chalis-géiiw 243 34 S.S.E.
15 Bhadgaiiw Bhadganw 242 33 S.E.
16 Baglana Sat_.'ir_ie 259 60 S.W.
l7 Miilegaiiw (Malligaum) Malegaiiw (Malligaum) 241 32 S.S.W.
2. HISTORICAL BKETCH—C'ASTEB—EMI’LOYMEl\'TS OF THE NATIVES.
The part of India comprehended in this division has been known to the
western world from very ancient times. But it was known in those remote ages
in so indistinct a manner, that it is now utterly im ossible to settle the locality of
the few places named, with the sole exception of alyan, which was undoubtedly
a great city long before the Christian era. Tagara, generall * acknowledged to
be the present Daulatabad, lay on the eastern frontier of t is division, and the
author of the Periplus reckons it amon the largest cities of India, even in his
time, “a circumstance which would lea us to infer a long period of antecedent
splendour.”1~ Another eat em orium was Pluthana, 20 days’ journey S. of
Barygaza or Bharfich, an which ecren therefore concludes to have been some-
where in the Ghats of this division. It is said that it was the mart for onyx
stones, and that goods were transported from it over bad roads to Barygaza.
But, if it were 20 days’ journey S. of that place, it cannot have been very far
* Eiphlntone, p.22i_, note, Ed.is57,__savs that Tagara cannot possibly be Daulat-abad, and
takes Pluthana or Plithana to be Paitan (Pattan); but he is perhaps inclined to measure
distances to0_ exactly for such a book as the Pei-iplus, -
T Heereii, iii, p. 378.


Pztnak Div. css1*Es—EMrLorMnnrs or THE NATIVES. 297
from Kalyan, and its ex orts would rather have been taken to this latter port,
unless, indeed, we are to believe what is said of a raja of Larikah, forbidding the
Greeks to trade at Kalyan, and limiting them to Barygaza. Wilford* makes
Pluthana to be “ Pultanah,” on the Godavari, a name which is not to be found
in the maps or azetteers; but probably represents Phultamba, in lat. 19° 48',
long. 74° 40'. hatever its exact locality, Pluthana certainly lay within this
division, as perhaps also Nelkynda, which, however, Heeren and others take to
be Neliceram, a little N. of Kalikod (Calicut). The difliculties that beset these
questions are confessedly insu erable; but so much is certain, that a trade
existed between the provinces W ich compose this division and Europe, not long
after the time of Alexander, if not before. Sehlegel and others have proved the
extreme anti uity of this trade from the Sanskrit names of various articles which
have found t eir way into the Hebrew and classical languages. Of these it is
suificient to mention carbasua, from the Sanskrit lcdrpdaam, “cotton,” which
occurs in Greek and Hebrew as well as in Latin; saccharum, “ sugar," from the
Sanskrit sharkard ; piper, “ pepper,” from the Sanskrit pippali; zingiber,
“ginger," from the Sanskrit shfingaveram, “antler-shaped.”1- Without then
attempting to settle what is hopelessly uncertain, we may assume that there was
a considerable trade with this part of ndia before the Christian era, and that the
present Kalyfin was one of the great ports at which this trade was carried
on. It is further shown by ancient inscriptions on copper d up at Thanah in
1787, and translated by Ramalochan Pandit,1 at the request 0' General Carnac,
that, at a remote period, there was a king of Tagara named Jimfitavahana
“ cloud-borne,” || of a race of “ Rajpfits, called Silar, and that from him descended
princes, who, in 1018, A.D., ruled over the Konkan, and had their capital some-
where near Sashthi, probably at Kalyan. A similar inscription found at ss:ara,§
roves that there was in 1192, A.D., a raja at Panala similarl descended, who
built fifteen of the principal forts round Satara, including that o same itself.
The Piinah division forms the principal part of the coun called by Hindus
Maharashtra, or “great country," which is bounded on the . by the Narmada
River; on the E. by the Wain Ganga River to its junction with the Varada and
b the E. bank of the latter stream to Manikdur ; on the S. by a line drawn from
anikdurg to Méihfir, and thence to Goa; an on the W. by the ocean. That
part of this re 'on, however, which lies to the E. of the territories of Bombay, and
is under the igam, thou h originally included in Maharashtra, can no longer be
said to belong to it.** he Marathas are the inhabitants of this country; but the
word Maratha is especially applied to the Kunbis, or Shfidra cultivators, in con-
tradistinction to the Brahmans and rajas on the one hand, the latter of whom
claim a Rajpiit origin, and the Parwaris, or low castes. These latter again, who
are village ‘watchmen, porters, guides, etc., are no doubt the aborigines of the
countr . They are also called Mahfus and, when contem t is intended, Dhers.
The arathas rose to notice and power under Sivaji (see hronolo 'cal Tables),
and the most valiant and distinguished among them came from the onkan Ghat
Maths, or Table-land at the top of the Ghats, which is in some places 30,
according to Grant Duff (the Maratha Dictionary makes the Mawal alone 50),
miles broad. It is divided into three regions, of which the most westerly is called
Murheiifl-; the tract which adjoins to the E. is the Mawalji; and the glens are
* " Asiatic Researches,” v_ol. i. p. 871.
1* Bitter, vol. v. 436, derives Sindon, " fine linen,” from Sindh, the name of the province
lo-called but this s highly improbable.
I “ Asiatic Researches,’ vol. i. p. 857-
II A common epithet of Indra. __
6 “Transactions of the Bombay Literary Society," vol. in.
" For the history oi’ the Marathas and oi’ the progress oi’ the English power in this part or
India, see Chronological Tables in the Introduction, pp. lxix. to lxxx.
fr " Mist,” because during the rains, this tract is en'veloped in mist.
1: " West," because this tract is the W. boundary of the Desb or upper Marathi. country.


298 cAsTEs—EMPLOYM!<1NTs or ran mrrvss. Sect. I. Bombay.
called Khoras. The tract to the S. of the Sawitri River, is called Het, or
“ lower." The Mawalis and the Hctkaris, or inhabitants of the Mawal and the
Het, were long the best Maratha soldiers. The Maratha Brahmans are divided
into eight classes: 1, Karara; 2, Yajurvcdi; 3, Kannu; 4, Deoruke; 5, Kirwant ;
6, Shenwi; 7, Tirgul; 8, Suwasse. Of these the most renowned is the
Kara;-a, of which s ran the famous Ohinakya, the Peshwas, N ana Farnavis,
and N ant. Sahib. ‘he rahmans also call themselves Deshists, if they live above
the Ghats; and Konkanis, if below.
The most remarkable tribes in this division are the forest tribes of the N.
Konkan and the Ramusis. Of the former, the Waralis and Katodis may be
taken as specimens.
The Wa'ralz's.—The following is the account of this tribe given by Dr. \Vilson
in the 7th vol. of the “ Trans. of the Roy. As. Soc.” p. 14 :-
“When Dr. Smyttan and I went out to view the village of Umargaum, we
found three or four Waralis, who had come down from the Jungles with the view
of disposing of bamboos which they had cut. Their hair was black and lank;
their bodies were oiled; and altogether they had a very wild appearance. They
spoke Marathi, and seemed to be highly amused at having a European to spea
with them. On questioning them, we found that they have no connection either
with the Brahman or the Hindfi religion, that they have priests of their own, and
very few religious rites of any kind, and that these rites principally refer to
marriages and deaths. They move about in the jungles according to their wants,
many of their villages being merely tem orary. Their condition is well worthy
of being inquired into. In an old boo of ‘travels, I find their tribe repre-
sented as much addicted to thievin . In the Puranas, they are spoken of as the
Kalapraja, in contradistinction to t e common Hindus, who are denominated the
Subhrapraja. There are other tribes in the jungles whose state is similar to
theirs, and should be investigated. The wildness of their country and the difi"1~
culties and dangers of moving in it are obstacles in the way of research.
“They were the most ignorant persons I have ever met with. They answered
all my questions with the exclamation, ‘How is it possible for us to know such
matters?’ and laughed most immoderately at my inquiries, both as to their
novelty and the idea of my] expecting them to know anythin about them. Two
days afterwards, at a neig bouring village, I sat down besi e a small com any
with the view of examining them at length respectin their tenets and ha its.
Amongst other questions, I asked them if they expecte to go to God after death.
‘How can we get to God after death,’ said they; ‘men even banish us from
their abodes ; how will God allow us to approach him P’
“After leaving Rakholi, two marches from Daman, we visited a considerable
number of other hutteriea belon ing to the Waralis, and situated in the Company’ s
territories. The principal of t em were those of Kudad, Pa 'i, Dhabari, Phal-
suni, Kinhauli, Thalasari, and Pimpuri. The boundaries of t e country of the
Waralis it is difiicult to speci . Their principal locations are Nehar, Sanjan
Udwach, Baharaeh, Ashari, T alasari, and Gambirgad. They are also found
near the coast, but less frequently the farther south. Their total number may
be about 10,000.
“ The Waralis are ore slender in their form than the common agriculturists
in the Mai-atha coun , and they are somewhat darker in their complexion.
They seldom cut either the hair on their heads or beards ; and on ordinary occa-
sions they are but slightly clothed. Their huts are sometimes qpadrangular and
sometimes circular, and on the whole are very convenient, eing formed b
bamboos and hramble twisted into a framework of wood, and so thickly cover
with dried grass as to be impervious both to heat and rain. They do not rear
many cattle; but the have a superfluity of domestic fowls. The wood which
they fell near the ban of some of the principal streams brings them some profit;


Patna?» Div. CASTES—EMPLOYMENTS or run NATIVES. 299'
and altogether they appear to be in comfortable circumstances. It is robable,
from their consciousness of this fact and their desire to preserve themse ves from
the intrusion of other tribes, that man of them are not unwilling to he esteemed
sorcerers. They are immoderately a dicted to the use of tobacco, which they
urchase on the coast; and almost ever man amongst them carries the materials
or striking a light for smoking, in a ho low cocoa nut. They are, unfortunately,
fond of ardent spirits, and the Parsis have many shops in the wilderness, placed
under Hindu servants, for their accommodation. The scarcity of money is no
obstacle to their indulgence, as liquor can be procured for grain, grass, wood, or
any other article which may be at their disposal.
“ There are many kuls, or family divisions amongst the Wfiralis, such as the
Ravatia, Bhangara (that of the chief), Bhavar, Sankar, Pileyaua, Merla,
Wan ad, Thakarifi, J hadava, Karbat, Bhandar, Kondaria, etc. The clans
indee are so numerous, that we are forced to come to the conclusion that they
must at one time have been a very powerful people. The population appears to
be at present nearly stationary. On account of the unhealthiness of the Jungles,
many of the children are cut off at a very early age. No person marries in his
own clan.
“The Warali villages have not the common oflicers found in similar places
among the Marathas. They have, generally speaking, a head man, who is in
some degree responsible to the government for their behaviour. The Waralis are
not particularly noted for crime. Unless when calamities overtake them, they
are not frequent in their visits to the images of Waghia, their deity, which, at
the best, are only rude forms of a tiger. They have an annual service for the
dead, when their blmgats, or elders, repeat incantations, kindle lights, and strew
flowers at the place where the ashes of the dead have been scattered. They
partially observe the two festivals of the Shimyd and Divdli, which are connected
with the vernal and autumnal equinoxes, and which, though celebrated by the
Hindus in general, are often supposed to be ante-Brahmanical.”
The Kdtodia.—The Katodis receive their name from the occupation on which they
are principally dependant for support, the manufacture of the K dt, or terra japonica
from the Khair tree, or Acacia catechu. They principally inhabit the part of the
northern Konkan, which lies along the base of the Sahyadri range, and is inter-
mediate between the Nashik and Pfinah roads. A few of them may be occasionally
found on the E. face of the Ghats, in the same latitude as the district above
mentioned. Major Mackintosh, who has written an interesting notice of the
manner in which they prepare the catechu, and of some of their peculiar habits,
speaks of them as also in abiting the jungles of the Ativisi between the Daman
Ganga and Tapti Rivers. “They may be considered as nomades to a certain
extent,” he says, “for, notwithstanding they always reside in the same country,
they frequentl change their lace of residence. If we are to believe their own
account, they ave been settle in the Ativisi from time immemorial. They have
the tradition among them that they are descendants of the demon Ravana, the
tyrant monarch of Lanka, and the same whom the god Rama vanquished, and
whose exploits are related by the distinguished poet Valmiki.” They have not
settlements of their own, like the Waralis, but they live as outcasts near
villages inhabited by other classes of the communit . They are held in great
abhorrence by the common a 'culturists, and particnlarl by the Brahmans, and
their residences are wretche beyond belief. Among other things, they eat rats,
lizards, squirrels, blood-suckers, the black-faced monkey, swine, and serpents.
They will not touch the brown-faced monkey, which they say has a human soul.
They will awn the last rags on their bodies for a dram. The natives have a
great drea of their magical powers. Their names, like those of the Waralis, are
entirely different from those of the Hindus. Of a future state they know nothing.
When a death takes place, they give food to crows, and call out kdva! kdva!


300 CAS'1'ES——'EMPLOYMENTS or THE NATIVES. Sect. I. Bomba/_i/.
crow! crow! They say it is an old custom, but do not know the reason. The
cost of a wife is fixed at 2 rs. Marriage is performed by placin a chaplet of
leaves on the bride's head, and then on the bridegroom’s; after w ich both are
smeared with turmeric. When they go to the jungle to prepare Kdt, they hold
their encampments sacred, and will sufl'er no one of another caste to approach
without giving warning. The Kdt is prepared from the inner portion of the
khair tree, h ‘boiling and then inspissating the juice. Before fellin a tree, they
select one, w ich they worship by offering to it a cocoa-nut, buming rankincense,
and applying a red igment. They then pray to it, to bless their undertaking.
The Ra'mosis.—— apt. Alexander Mackintosh of the 27th Madras N. I. pub-
lished at Bomba in 1833, an account of this remarkable tribe. His memoir also
appears in the ournal of the Madras Literary Society, vols. i. and The
following account is condensed from it.
The race of people known by the name of Ramosis (Ramoossies) reside chiefly
in the outskirts of the towns and villages in the valleys of the Man, N ira ,Bhima,
and Peta Rivers, and in the adjoining plains and highlands.
The tract of country over which they are dis rsed is nearly 200 miles in
length; and throughout the same territory an the southern portion of the
Pfinah district, it varies from 80 to about 120 miles in breadth, becoming much
narrower as we approach the N. limits in the vicinit of N ashik on the banks of
the Godavaii, so that the part of the country in whic they reside lies within the
17° and 20° of N. lat. and 73° 40" and 75° 40" E. long.
The Ramosi ranks very low among the Warna Shankar, or mixed classes, and
far beneath the Pulkash, or Dongri Kole, but before the Holar, Maliar, Mung,
Dhaur, etc. These last, the Rtimosi scrupulously keeps at a distance. The tribe
pf dltamosis appears to be divided into two main branches,—the Chowan and the
£1 u. - -
It is very robable that this tribe 0ri%nally migrated from some art of the
ancient king om of Telingana, probably . or S. E. of Haidarabad; cause, in
the scanty remains they have of a distinct language, many of the words evidently
belong to the Telugu. While their funeral rites and ceremonies of purification
bear a eat analog to those of the Lingayats of whom the Jangams are priests,
and in t e part of t e country in which the Ramosis at present reside few of the
Liiigayat persuasion are to be found. These are more to the E. and S. E.
They a pear to have been very cautious in preventing their language from
becoming nown to any other persons than those of their tribe ; for all that the
inhabitants know is, that the Rhmosis have a language peculiar to themselves, and
with which the other members of the community are unacquainted.
The total po ulation of the Ramosfs was estimated, in 1833, at 13,000. They
are chiefly emp oyed as village watchmen. No uniform system prevails as to the
pay, fees, and emoluments to which a Ramosi watchman is entitled from long-
established usage. The watchmen, in a great many villages, hold portions of
rent-free land, and have stipulated allowances in cash, besides the Baluteii perqui-
sites, while in other places they receive only the cash payment and Baluteri. -
The Ramosi, in his character of watchman, is not included among the 12
members of the village Balute ; but among the Aluta, or those who receive the
charitable allowance. The inhabitants of some villages grant the Balutefi dues of
their own free will, but do not acknowledge it as a perquisite, or right. Besides
these emoluments the R.’-imosi receives a perquisite, which is termed the Talckd
paisa’, or fees for the halting place. Travellers passin through the country with
cattle loaded with goods, and occupying the Ta_l “ha ting-place” near a village,
with bullocks conveying merchandise, pay this fee to the Ramosi for protecting
their property during their stay. In some few towns, the Patils and Mahars et
a trifling allowance from these travellers; but the Rfimosi always receives his ee,
a\'oi'aging from 2 to 4 annas per 100 bullocks.


Pfmals Div. CABTES—EMPLOYMEHTS or ran NATIVES. 301
The Ramosis have ever been renowned thieves and bandits, and the stories of
their exploits are innumerable. When Sivaji commenced his career, they flocked
to his standard and did him great service. They led the storming party at the
unsuccessful attempt made by that chief to escaladc Purandar. Many of them
were dashed to leces, the ropes having been cut by the arrison. The next
attempt succeede , and the Sahu Raja granted lands in the vicinity to the Ramosfs,
as a reward. In 1730 they became extremely troublesome, and rendered all the
roads around Purandar and Punah unsafe by their robberies. Dhumaji, a plun-
derer, had seized the Peshwa Balaji, and the chief of Purandar, and cruelly
tortured the latter, and one Pilla'i J adu having rescued them, he was made chief
or Sir Naik of the Ramosis, an restored order among them, putting many to
death. Soon after they were appointed watchmen of Punah, and retained this
oflice till lately. Pilla'i’s descendant was living in 1833 near Sasfir, enjoying a
pension from the Eng ish of 5,000 Rs. a ear. From Purandar, the Ramosis
made their way N. up- to the districts of Smnfir and Sangamner, and as far as
Nashik. About 1780, one of their chiefs, named Dadji, became notorious for his
robberies near Punah. He was at last put to death, owing to the Peshwa’s wife
vowing not to touch food till he was executed. The mimsters, finding that the
Ba’: was inexorable and determined on fulfilling her resolution, swore solemnl
by her feet that they would have Dadji put to death, and she was then satisfie .
A confidential messenger was then dispatched to direct Dadji to proceed forthwith
to the Purandar Fort, as he was required for the performance of some special
service. He repaired to Purandar with a number of his followers, and, after
having received some presents, he was told a confidential communication would
be made to him in the afternoon. When he returned for his instructions, accom-
panied by a few friends, he was seized. A Brahman ofiicial guestioned Dadji
about the property he had secured by plunder, and the number 0 gang robberies
he had committed. Dadji said he had perpetrated 1,110 robberies, and that he
secured the greatest riches in a banker's house at Charnargonda, between one and
two lakhs of rupees. He and a number of his followers were immediately
executed. The natives persist in saying that a charm in the possession of this
Ramosi rendered him invulnerable, and that the executioner found it quite
impossible to make any impression'on his neck with his sword. An order was
consequently given to bring a saw to have his feet and hands sawed ofl‘, upon
which it is sai Dad'i entreated them to have some patience, and to let him have
a knife, and he wo d remove the invisible dificulty. VVhen he got the knife he
made an incision in his left arm, and extracted a valuable gem that had been
placed there by himself; he then told one of the three executioners (who were all
greatly alarmed) to strike and sever his head at one blow, otherwise he would fly
at his throat and tear him to pieces. In 1803 the Ramosis, forming at that time
the rincipal part of the garrison of Purandar, attempted to make themselvc inde-
engent, and defended the fort for 7 months against Baji R510 Peshwa; but, when
e obtained the co-operation of the English, they evacuated the place. He then
seized all their lands, and compelled them to emigrate, whereupon their chiefs
swore before their idols never to rest till they had recovered their lost rights.
Omiah, one of their chiefs, afterwards gave great trouble to the English Govern-
ment. Before noticin the exploits of this Rob Roy of the Dakhan, it must be pre-
mised that when the nglish absorbed the territories of the Peshwa, they found
the Ramosis busily plundering, and that, in July, 1818, they made a most suc-
cessful seizure of treasure near J ijfiri. Shortl after this, the Ramosis at Punah
became extremely troublesome, committing rob eries constantly in the houses of
the European gentlemen residing there. It was therefore deemed advisable to
em loy Rémosis to watch during the night. Almost every ofiicer in the place
ha one of these men in his service, receiving 7 Rs. monthly. Having thus
succeeded in levying black mail from their European masters, the Naiks in charge


302 CASTES——EMPI.0YMENTS or THE NATIVE8. Sect. I. Bombay.
of the Ramosi police, found it advantageous to engage persons of other castes
to act as watchmen. By this arrangement, many of the Ramosis could follow
their accustomed avocation of pillaging in Pnnah and the surrounding country.
It is common now to see Mangs, Dhers and Kunbis, etc., performing the duties of
watchmen, and who consequently style themselves Ramosis. This is also the
case at Bomba .
Omiah, or maji, as he was frequently called, was born in the year A.D. 17 91,
at the small village of Bhiwadi, two miles N.E. of the Purandar Hill, and about
sixteen S.E. of Pfinah. His father, Dadji Naik, died at an advanced age on
the hill fort of Purandar, durin the rains of 1802, a few weeks before the arrival
of Holkar's army at Punah. maji was the third child by the second wife. He
was a slight made man, about five feet four inches in height, with large dark
searching and expressive eyes, a large nose deeply set under the brow. His
features, upon the whole, were mild and rather pleasing; he had a very fine
throat, and his skin was of an unburnished copper color. Umaji lived with his
mother after the Ramosis were expelled from Purandar, as above related. The
first adventures of Umaji as a brigand were not encouraging. In his first action
with 21 comrades against 100 of the Nigam’s horse and 150 foot, he was made
prisoner, ten of his party being killed, and eight desperately wounded. After
three months, he was set at liberty, and, shortly after the English took possession
of Pfinah, he committed arobbery 18 miles from Panwel, and, being apprehended,
was imprisoned for a year. During his confinement, he learned to read, a most
rare accomplishment amongst Rfimosis, and an indication of the energy of the man.
Some time before this, having received a violent blow when intoxicated, he gave up
drinking entirely, another proof of his remarkable character. From the moment
of his release from the English prison, he commenced a career of the most
astonishingly bold and successful robberies, in which he often attacked and slew
parties of police and sepoys, was wounded, admitted into the service of Govern-
ment, again became a plunderer, and was again captured and finally executed.
The sin(gular adventures of this man, who, but for the En lish, might have become
a. secon Sivaji, deserve to be perused in Captain Mac 'ntosh’s papers, but the
following may serve as a specimen. Umaji had just made prisoners of a
Havaldkrs party, near the village of Wasunda 1--
“The members of the ang now sat down to determine how they should dis-
pose of their prisoners. uring this tryin period, the Sipahis, who had every
reason to suppose that the Rfimosis intende to murder them, or to torture them
in some horrid manner, beg ed them most earnestly to spare their lives, and to
set them at liberty. With t e view of exciting the sympathy of the gang, and
making a eater impression on their feelings, all the prisoners laid hold of the
dilferent aiks’ shoes with their teeth, and put grass into their mouth, indicating
that they were on a footing with the beasts of the field, and devoid of the power
of making an exertions to save themselves. The Ijlavaldar and a Sipahi con-
trived to reac Omiah; they threw their arms round him, and clinging to him,
prayed of him, in the name of everything dear to him in this world, to have
mere on them, and not to put them to death. These men most fortunately, by
attac ing themselves in sue a determined manner to Omiah, at last succeeded
in prevailing on himto reserve their lives, while the others were doomed to
suffer death. Two of t ese were handed over to two men of the Mang
caste, from the Ni;.'1m’s territories, who had been some time with the
band. These men cut the Sipahis down, and afterwards beheaded them.
Some of the Ramosis did not scruple to lend an assisting hand on the
occasion. Durin this interval, the third Sipahi endeavoured to excite the pity of
the Naiks ; but t ey forced him from them. When the Mangs were approachin
to take him awa for execution, the Sipahi observed the Naiks fall back to avoi
his clinging to t em. This he considered a favourable opportunity to make his


P1'mak.Div. cssrns-nnrnornnnrs or THE ruzrrvns. 303
escape to the jungle, which he attempted to accomplish. Ten or twelve Ramosis
followed him. All eyes were now directed to the Sipahi and his ursuers; but
Bhojaji Naik, uttering some abusive language, remarked that t ey were not
gaining on him, and he consequently sprang on his legs and followed them. By
the time they had reached the distance of five hundred yards, Bhojaji had headed
the Ramosis, and in a short time came up with the Sipahi, whom he cut down,
and the Mangs were sent to cut his head ofl'. The Ramosis having thus, with
the ferocity of a tiger, glutted their revenge, Omiah sent for a Brahman, and
ordered him to address a letter to the Governor, in which it was stated that he
had fallen in with some Sipahis, who had afterwards been killed (in action) and
that he had cut off their heads, and forwarded them, knowing that heads would
be acceptable, and that he, therefore, meant to send him more. He added a
postscript to his letter, addressed to the different villages on the route to Sassfir,
cautioning the inhabitants to be particular in transmitting the baskets to their
destination, and that he would burn the village where they should be detained,
and punish the inhabitants. The note was dated the 20th of December, 1827.”
The Kolis are a tribe similar to the Ramosis. They are fishermen, watermen,
porters, and hunters, and are, or were, thieves and plunderers to a man. In the
Balute, or village oflicers, the K072’ comes last. There are several divisions of
them. Those inhabitin the Sah adri range from the foot of Trimbak to Bhima
Shankar, both above and below t e Ghats, are cultivators, but, at the same time,
most enterprising and determined robbers. They are of a more pure race than
the Kolis in the Atavisi and more to the N. Those settled round the Purandar
Hills, are of the class employed as the village Koli, who sup lies the inhabitants
and travellers with water, and belong to the Balute. The oatmen and fisher-
men on the coast round Bombay are Kolis, and many of them are common
laborers. Captain Mackintosh, in his note, p. 43, is mistaken in supposing that
the term Oonly “porter,” originated among the first English settlers in Bombay.
It is a genuine Tatar word, and should be written Kuli, and was used in the
Persian and other languages, before an English face was ever seen in Bombay.


304
Sect. I.
noorn 2.—nom:AY T0 nm>I'n.i.
ROUTE 2.
BOMBAY T0 KAMPGLI (CAMPOOLEE) BY
run LINE or THE smear INDIAN
PENINSULAR RAILWAY, via TBXNAH
mm "ran caves or SALSETTE.
71 miles.
MILITARY Au'rnonI'rY—-Ofiicer Com-
manding at Bombay—Bomba_1/, as far as
the causeway between Bombay and Sal-
sette. Thence to Kampnli: Oflicer
Commanding Pfmah Division-—Pi’mah.
CIVIL Anruomrr - Governor of
Bombay—Parell, to limit of Bombay
Island. Thence to Kampfili: Collector
of Th5nal1—Thdnah.




DISTANCE
i sranoxs. FROM BOMBAY.
M. P.
Bombay ........ 0 0
B cullah . 2 2
ahim rd. . 5 6
Kurla (Coorla) . . 9 2
Bhandfip ......................... .. 16 6
(a) Thanah (Tanna) (Halt here
to visit Ga/ves of Salsette) 20 4
Parsek (Parseek? .... .. , 24 4
3?) Kalyan (Cal ian) 33 2
Itwala ............ .. . 40 0
Badlfipfir (Budlapoor) . 41 6
Wasind ...... .... .. . 49 4
Narel ...... .. 53 4
(c) Kampfili... .. . . .. 71 0
Total 71 0
The direction of the Great Indian
Peninsular Railway, and the principal
points which it is intended to connect,
may be indicated as follows :—-Com-
mencing to the north of the Fort of
Bombay, and on the eastern side of the
promontory which connects it with the
native town, the line traverses the
island of Bombay, and, after crossing
the Sion Causeway, roceeds along the
eastern side of the Is and of Salsette to
Thanah. It thence crosses an arm of
the sea by a viaduct surmounted by an
iron girder bridge; then assing round
the promontory of Parsek oint, reaches
the town of Kalyan (Gallian).
Here an important bifurcation takes
place, one branch goin off to the south-
east to Punnh and hollipur by the

Bhor Ghat, the other to the north-east to
J algaon, N £1 ur, and the districts of
the Tapti an Narbada rivers. By the
former of them it is anticipated that a
junction will ultimately be effected with
the Railways of the Madras Presidency,
and by the latter -with those of Bengal.
Between Bhosawal, a small town in
Khandesh, and Jalgaon, a second im-
portant bifurcation of the line will take
place. One branch will proceed nearly
due west to Amrawati and Nagpur,
passing through the rich cotton district
of Berar, while the other, proceeding to
the north-east, will cross the valleys of
the Tapti and the Narbada, will pass
through the district of Hoshangabfid,
abounding in rich mines of coal and
iron ore, and will then proceed on to
J abalpur, where the junction with the
line of the East Indian Railway Com-
pany from Calcutta will, it is expected,
take place.
(a) Tlm'nah.—At Thdnab, the traveller
may halt for two days to see the cele-
brated caves of Salsette, called by the
natives Sashthi, an island 18 miles
longand 13 broad, densely wooded,
and with hills more lofty than those of
Bombay, with which it is connected by
an arched stone bridge, by the Bandra
and Mahim Causeway, and that of the
railway now under notice. The water-
works of Vihar are also worth inspec-
tion. If the traveller be a sportsman, he
ma fill his bag with quail and hares, and
per aps obtain a shot at a tiger; and
In any case he should make provision
for a chance encounter with such an
animal, for they are often found in the
caves. The town of Thanah itself pre-
scnts no attraction to the tourist. Its
population is about 12,000. The rail-
way to it was first opened on the 16th
of April, 1853. In 1320 A.D., four
Christian companions of the Italian
friar, Odoricus, herc suffered martyr-
dom. In April, 1737, it was taken
from the Portuguese by the Marathas,
under the first fiaji Rao Peshwa, after
a gallant defence. At this time the
-country round Thanah was highly
cultivated, and the traveller’s eye‘
rested at every half mile on elegant
* Anderson's Western India. 9.146.


Bombay.
305
nourn 2.—aomsu' ro xsur1iLi—-raisin.
mansions, two of which deserve special
mention. One, the property of John
de Melos, was three miles from Thfinah ;
it stood on a sloping eminence,
decorated with terraced walks and
gardens, and terminating at the water
side with a banqueting-house, which
was approached by a flight of stone
steps. A mile further was Grebondel,
the property of Martin Alphonso, said to
be “ the richest Don on this side Goa.”
Above rose his fortified mansion, and a
church of stately architecture. This
prosperity was ruined by the Maratha
irrugtion and occu ation of the island
of ashthi, of w ich the retained
possession till 1774. In t at year,*
the Portuguese sent a formidable arma-
mentfrorn Europe, for the avowed pur-
ose of recovering their lost possessions.
his circumstance becoming known to
the Government of Bombay, Mr.
William Hornby the Governor, de-
termined to anticipate their enterprise,
and seize upon the island for the
English. In the beginning of Decem-
ber, a force of 620 Europeans, 1,000
sipahfs, and 200 gun laskars, was re-
ared under General Robert Gor on,
or the reduction of Thfinah. The
batteries opened on the 26th of Decem-
ber, and on the night of the 27th an
attempt to storm was repulsed with the
loss of one hundred Europeans killed
and wounded; but next evening a
second assault was more successful,
when almost all the garrison were put
to the sword. The third day of the
siego was marked b the loss of Com-
modore J. Watson,t e manner of whose
death was most singular. A cannon
shot struck the sand close to him, and
drove the particles into his body. On
March the 6th, the Peshwa Raghuba,
by the treaty of Wasai (Bassein), ceded
the island of Sashthi (Salsette) in
perpetuity. By the convention of
Wargaon, concluded in January, 17 79,
this acquisition, with all others, was to
be restored to the Marathas, but Mr.
Hornby disavowed the treaty, and
determined at all hazards to resist the
cessions. Whether Thfmah was ever

really given up docs not appear; but,
if so, it was recovered the next year,
when General Goddard captured Bassein.
In 1816, Trimbak'i Dan lia, the cele-
brated Minister 0 Baji no, the last
Peshwfi, effected his escape from the
fort of Thanah, though guarded b a
strong body of European soldiers. ' he
difliculties of this escape were greatly
exaggerated all over the Marfitha
country, and it was compared to that
of Sivaji from the power of Aurangzib.
The principal agent in the exploit was
the Maratha horsekeeper in the service
of one of the English ofiicers of the
garrison, who, passing and repassing
under the window of Trimbakjfs cell,
as if to exercise his master’s horse, sang
the information he wished to convey in
a careless manner, which disarmed
suspicion. Heber, who had seen Trim-
bakji imprisoned in the fort of Chunar,
was much interested in this escape, and
speaks of it thus :*—“The groom’s sing-
ing was made up of verses like the
following :—
' Behind the bush the howmcn hide,
The horse beneath the tree ;,
Where shall I find a knight will ride
The jungle paths with rns P
There are flve—and-fifty coursers there,
And four-and-fifty men ;
When the tiny-fifth shall mount his steed,
The Deckan thrives again.‘
This might have been a stratagem of
the Scottish border, so complete a simi-
larity of character and incident does a
resemblance of habit and circumstance
produce among mankind.” The same
writer comments on the “neglected and
uncivilised state of Salsette,” after it
had been so long in the hands of the
English. He adds that Thanah is
chiefly inhabited by Roman Catholic
Christians, either converted Hindus, or
Portuguese, who have become as black
as thc natives, and assume all their
habits; he also describes the town as a
neat and flourishing place, and famous
for its breed of hogs and the manner in
which its Portuguese inhabitants cure
bacon. The church, which he describes
as small, but extremely elegant and
convenient, was being built when he
arrived, and on July the-10th, 1826, it
was consecrated by him. The neigh-
' Grant Duffs History of the Mara_thas,
vol. 8, 11.876.
* Haber, vol. 2. p. s, Ed. 1844.


306
Sect. I.
novrn 2.—CAVE rnnrnns or xiignsnr.
bourhood was, from the time of the
Bishop‘s visit till 1844, notorious for its
robberies, but rigorous measures being
then taken, these disorders were sup-
ressed. Shortly before that date the
nglish judge having incautiously en-
tered with too few attendants anion
the large number of prisoners confined
in the jail there, was seized, and was
within a hair's breadth of being exe»
cuted by them. The rope was already
round his neck, when help arrived.
The 0ava- Temples of Kdzihari (Kan-
nari or Kenerg). These caves are all
excavated in the face of a single hill in
the centre of the island, and about five
miles from the traveller’! bauglé. at
Thanah, which is situate to the north
of the town. Thanahis on the E. coast
of the island, opposite the main land,
andthe caves lie dueW. of it. There are
nearly a hundred of them; but though
more numerous, they are pronounced
by Mr. Fergusson* to be much less
interesting than those at Aj ayanti (Ajun-
ta), Elfir (Ellora), or Karli. The same
authority considers this series of caves to
be “ one of the most modern of the Bud-
dhist series in India, and that the
greater part of them were executed by
a colony of Buddhists, who may have
taken refuge here after being expelled
from the continent, and who tried to
reproduce the lost Karli in their insular
retreat." He ranks them as follows :—
“Those in the ravine, in the 4th and
6th century A.D. ; those on the south
side, under the brow of the hill, with
those on each side of the great cave, a
cent later; then the great cave; and
lastly, the unfinished one, which is the
first the traveller approaches by the
usual route, and which dates about the
9th or 10th century A.D., or is even
still more recent.” Heber con'ectures
that the Kanhari caves are ol er than
those of Ele hanta, to which he is
“not dispose to assign any great de-
gree of antiquity ;" but Caunterf speaks
of “sixteen or ei hteen hundred years,
the latest robable date assi ed even
by Bishop eber himself to t ese exca-
vations.” However this may be, it is
' Rock-cut Temples of India, p. 34.
T Oriental Annual, p. 278.
at least certain, to use Heber-’s words,
“ the beautiful situation of these caves,
their elaborate carving, and their marked
connection with Bu dh and his reli-
gion, render them every way remark-
able.”
The best account of the Kanhari
caves is that given by Salt, p. 47, vol. i.
Transactions of the Literary Society of
Bombay, which will be here mainly
followed. This writer speaks of there
being no regular road to them, and of
its being requisite to clear u way to
them through the jungle, the whole of
the part of the island where they lie
being covered with a thick and almost
impenetrable jungle. But though the
path is narrow, and winds alon the
sides of rocks, it is quite possibe to
roceed along it in palkis or on horse-
hack. If the traveller possess a tent,
he ma send it on to the little village
of T i, a lovely spot in the centre
of mountains of considerable height,
abounding with game, but intensely
hot. Most of the surrounding hills are
covered with jungle, but the one in
which are the caves is nearly bare, its
summit being formed by one large
rounded mass of compact rock, under
which a softer stratum has been washed
out by the rains, forming natural caves,
which, slightly improved by art, were
appro riated as cells. The road which
ascen s the hill from Tulsi leads to a
platform in front of the great arched
cave, where are several mounds of
masonry. The lar est of them was
opened by Dr. Bir , and many relics
and inscriptions on copper were found.
This is the first stage of ascent to the
caves, which consist of six stories, on
the ledges of the mountains, connected
with each other by footste s cut in the
rock. The ascent is gradua until with-
in a few hundred yards of the southern-
most, when the path becomes steep and
rugged, and so closely shaded with
shrubs and lofty trees as to conceal
every appearance of the caves until
actuall m front of them. This gives
a stri 'ng effect to the first which
comes in view. Two massive columns,
of the same order as those at Ele-
phanta, support a plain solid entabla-


Bombay.
307
ROUTE 2.—CAVE TEMPLES OF KAIITHARI.
tiire, above which an oblong square
is hollowed out. Within are two ante-
rooms, each about 35ft. broad and 12ft.
deep; and beyond, an unfinished cham-
ber 26ft. deep. The front screen has
three doors, and three windows over
them, and the partition between the
second ante-room and the inner cham-
ber has likewise three doors, and over
the centre one a large open arch, rising
nearly to the roof. Salt thinks that
the workmen be an this cave from the
top, and worke downwards. There
are here no fi ures or carvings, and the
details are of%ittle interest. Fergusson
supposes it to be the latest excavation
in the hill, and to date in the 9th or
10th century s.n., or even later.
From this a vihdra, consisting of a
long irregular verandah with cells at
the back, extends in a direction from
south-west to north-east to the great
cave, from which it is divided by a
partition, so thin that it has been
roken through by some accident. It
contains, and this is the chief point of
interest, two sanctuaries, in which are
daghopas, or solid masses of stone or
earth, in the form of a cupola. The
most southern of these stands in a
recess, the three sides of which are
divided into panels, on which are carved
one, two, or more figures of Buddha
and of Bodhisatwas in various attitudes.
Behind the northern daghopa Buddha
is represented on a lion-throne, which
rests on a lotus, whose stalk is su -
ported by two boys with hoods li e
that of the cobra. From the main
stem spring two others, on which are
two youths with the fans called chauri,
and one with a lotus-head in his hand.
Above are two flying figures, and two
of priests below, and a group is thus
formed, the fac-simile of which is seen
at Karli and Ajayanti (Ajunta). One
of the daghopas was opened b Dr.
Bird, but no relics were-found’. In
digging round the foundation, however,
a small earthern pot was discovered,
in which was a brass serpent and an
image of Buddha of baked earth, in-
scribed with very minute characters.
The Great Cave.—-Joining this veran-
dah, in the manner just mentioned, is

the Great Gave, which resembles in
almost every respect the great cave at
Karli; but it is here even still more
evident that the centre at least must
have been roofed, though the roof
could not have extended to the ends,
for then it would have cut across the
figures of Buddh, 23ft. hi h, which
occupy both extremities. e dimen-
sions of the interior are somewhat less
than those of Kfirli, the length being
88ft. 6in., breadth 39ft. 10in; the
length and breadth of the nave, 74ft.
2in. and-39ft. 10in.; but in front of
the cave itself is a portal, and after that
a vestibule. In going from the veran-
dah to the Great Ctwe, you pass a small
tank. An ascent of five steps leads to
the portal, which was once arched or
much higher than at present, as is
proved by the broken figures on either
side. The portal opens into a court, in
which are two lofty columns, that on
the right surmounted by three lions
couchant. Its pedestal is cut into
panels and supports an image of Buddha,
whose head is canopied by five heads of
the hooded snake. The left column
has dwarf figures on the top. The
whole space at the further end of the
portico is occupied by the front face of
the cave, which is divided by plain
columns into three square portals be-
neath and five open windows above,
beyond which is the vestibule. On the
right and left of the vestibule, in re-
cesses, are gigantic statues of Buddha,
23ft. high. On the leg of the left-
hand image are a cross and an inscrip-
tion in Roman letters, which, according
to Dr. Bird, is shown to be more
ancient than the times of the Portu-
guese by the Ethiopic or Arabic term,
Abuk, “the father,” and which, accom--
panied b the date 78, with a resem-
blance o the cross, and the letters for
Kal Buddha, Buddha Sakya, may indi-
cate its connection with primitive Chris-
tianity, whose spurious doctrines, intro-
duced into India, are supposed by
"Wilford to have given rise to the aera
of Shiilivahana, which dates 78 years
after Christ. The court is parted by a
screen, over which was once a music
gallery, from a vestibule. The interior


308
Sect. I.
novra 2.-—CAVE rammas or Liivnsm.
temple again is parted from the vesti-
bule by a second screen, the figures of
which are only remarkable for their
miserable execution. Indeed, all the
carving and the general execution of
this cave are declared by Fer on to
be most slovenly. The pillars that sur-
round the nave are of the same order
as those at Karli, but much inferior
in execution. Six on one side and
eleven on the other have ca itals orna-
mented with figures of elep ants our-
ing water from 'ars on the sacre bo-
tree or on dag opas, and ho s with
snake heads are also introduce . The
remaining fifteen columns are finished
as lain oc ons. These columns
stan at about 5ft. distance from the
sides of the cave, and thus form a
narrow aisle on each side of the nave,
which terminates in a semicircle; and
at this end is a daghopa 49ft. in
circumference.
Mr. Fergusson is of opinion that this
great Chaitya Cave was excavated after
the vihara, and that the three daghopas
existing at its threshold are more an-
cient than the cave itself. As the spot
had been regarded as sacred, owing to
them, some devotee, he thinks, deter-
mined on excavating a great temple
behind and between them. There being,
however, but thirty feet between them,
the court in front of the great cave
could only be made of that width, while
the great cave itself, in the rear of
them, swells to 40ft. This way of
accountin for dimensions that are con-
trar to 1 rules of architecture, seems
pre erable to Mr. Salt’s supposition,
that the form of the hill occasioned
such a plan of construction.
The Darbdr (lave. —Pr0ceeding a
little to the north from the caves Just
described, and turning to the right,
round an angle of the rock, is a long
winding ascent by steps cut in the rock,
leading to many smaller caves in a
ravine, through which a strong moun-
tain torrent pours in the rainy
season. There are ranges of caves
at different heights on both sides
the ravine, communicating by ste s
with one another, and above are t e
remains of a dam erected across the
ravine, by which a ca acious reser-
voir was once forme . The first
cave on the right hand is the so-called
Darbdr Gave, or “Cave of Audience,”
the finest vihara of the series, and the
only one that can compete in size with
those at Ajayanti. It is 96fi:. 6 in.
long, and 42ft. 3in. dee , exclusive of
the cells. The colonna e goes round
only three sides, and the sanctuary
occupies one intercolumniation of the
inner range. It is scarce 9ft. high, and
therefore too low for its other dimen-
sions. The pillars and plan are similar
to those of the Viswakarma at Ellora.
The verandah has a range of eight plain
octagon pillars, with pilasters. Below
is another cave, which gives to the
Darbar Cave the appearance of having
two stories. Imme iately opposite is a
vast excavation, in which are a few
fragments of columns hanging to the
roo .
Upper U1/wea.—Ascending still higher
from the platform of the Great Cave,
the traveller comes to 20 or 30 excava-
tions, containing nothin of note.
Above these again is anot er series of
vikdras, of which three are very in-
teresting, their walls being entirel
covered with figures, finely execute;
The general design is Buddha seated on
a lotus. Remains of plaster and paint-
ing are seen here and there. Mr.
Fer son remarks on the peculiar
hea -dress of the principal figure in
some of the groups, which he had not
noticed elsewhere, and observes, also,
that this figure is attended by two
female figures, whereas the true Buddha
is always attended by men. On the
east side of the hill 1s a broad, long,
and level terrace, commanding a very
fine view of the surrounding country.
The inscriptions at Kanbari have
been translated and ex lained to some
extent, and with much eaming, by the
Rev. Dr. J. Stevenson in the “Journal
of the Bombay Asiatic Society,” vol. v.,
No. XVIII., Art. I., for July, 1853.
In Bird’s “Caves of Western India,"
also will be found some translations fin‘-
nished to the author by persons ao-
quainted with Sanskrit; but the most
valuable part of the work last named
O


Bombay.
309
ROUTE 2.—CAVE TEMPLEB OF KALIHARI.
the notice of discoveries made on open-
ing the dafghopas, etc. The following
passage re ers to a discovery of great
importance made by Dr. Bir :—
“The tope at Kanhari (Kanari)
which was opened by me in 1839, ap-
peared to have been originally twelve
or sixteen feet in height, and of a pyra-
midal shape; but bein much dilapi-
dated, formed exterior a heap of
stones and rubbish. he largest of
several, being selected for examination,
was penetrated from above to the base,
which was built of cut stone. After
digging to a level with the ground and
clearing away the loose materials, the
workmen came to a circular stone, hol-
low in the centre and covered at the
top b a piece of gypsum. This con-
tame two small copper urns, in one of
which were a ruby, a pearl, and small
piece of gold mixed with ashes. In
this urn there was also a small gold
box, containing a piece of cloth, and in
the other, ashes and a silver box were
found. Outside the circular stone there
were two copper plates, on which were
legible inscriptions in the Lath or Cave
character. The smaller of the plates
had two lines of writing in a character
similar to that met with at the entrance
of the A'anta caves; the larger one
was inscri ed with letters of an earlier
date. The last part of the first-men-
tioned inscription contained the Bud-
dhist creed, as found on the base of the
Bauddha image from Tirhut, and on
the stone taken from the tope of Sar-
ndth, near Benares; an excellent com-
mentary on which will be found in
Mr. Prinsep’s %ournal for March and
April, 1835. he original of the Kan-
hari Kanari) inscription reads,
“ ‘ é dharma hetu prabhava, tesham
hetu Tathagata suvacha téshéncha yo
nirodha evam vadi Maha Suvana.’
“ And may be translated,
“ ‘ Whatever meritorious‘ acts proceed
from cause, of these the source Tatha-
gata (Buddha) has declared; the op-
posing principle of these, the great
one of golden origin has also demon-
strated.’
“ This discovery at Kanhari of the
Buddhist confeasio jidei establishes the
Bauddha origin of the cave temples of
Western Indra.”
The most curious fact of all connected
with Kanhari is the existence there in
ancient times of a tooth of Buddha.
The cave over which inscription VII.
of those mentioned by Stevenson is en-
graved, is called Saka-datya-lena, the
“Buddha-tooth Cave," probably be-
cause the relic was there temporarlly de-
posited, while the tope, there compared to
the ole of the heavens, in which it was
final y lodged, was being prepared.
The final lodgment (says Dr. Steven-
son) of the tooth was doubtless in the
tope opened by Dr. Bird, opposite the
great temple cave, as appears from the
important copper-plate inscri tion, of
which there is a fac-simile in is work.
At the foot of this inscription, in very
large letters, is written Dadha, “Canine
tooth.” There was no tooth among
the valuables brought to light by Dr.
Bird; but Dr. Stevenson thinks there
was a secret door or passage to the
adytum in which it was contained, for
a plate, in a character more modern
than that above referred to by five or
six centuries, was found with it in the
same mound. The same authority
therefore supposes that when Bud-
dhists began to be persecuted in India,
their priests conveyed the tooth to a
place of safety, and he is even of
opinion, “that it is not he ond the
bounds of robabilitythat the eylonese
tooth, sai to have been brought from
the other side of India, AJ). 310, may
be the identical Kanhari relic.”
Besides the name of Ohanakva, the
Kénhari inscriptions record that of
Buddaghosha, who is claimed by the
inhabitants of Siam and Burmah as
their apostle, and who, the Ceylonese
afiirm, translated into Pali or compiled
the Atthakatha or commentary on the
sayings of Buddha. There are also the
names of Gautami-putra and Yadnya
Shri-Sat-Karni, two famous sovereigns
of the Andhra dynas mentioned b
Pliny, and perhaps t at of a thir ,
Balin, first sovereign of the race.
Lastly, there has been the name, now
obliterated, of one of the Mahaksha-
trapas, kings, who in the beginning of


310
Sect. I.
RouTE 2.—CAVEs oF MONTPEZIR-GHORA BANDAR.
the Christian era reigned over the
country on the Indus and Gujarat, at
first as satraps of the Bactrian or Par-
thian monarchs, but afterwards as
independent princes. Dr. Stevenson
thinks that in Dhanuka-Kata, who is
mentioned in No. 7 inscription as an
artist, and in No. 11 of Bird's Kärleń
inscriptions as a Yavan or Greek, we
have the name of the principal archi-
tect of the excavations, whose Greek
name was Xenocrates. The whole sub-
ject is worthy the study of orientalists
and the continued research of travellers.
The Caves of Montpezir.—Nine miles
west-north-west of the Kánhari Caves,
are those of Montpezir, where are the
ruins of a Catholic Monastery, built by
the Jesuits in the 16th century. Below
these ruins, on the east side of the hill,
is a cave, which the Portuguese covered
with a thick coat of plaster. This has
been removed on the right hand wall as
ou enter, and a fine piece of sculpture
is visible, which Mr. Salt regards as
the marriage of Shiva and Pârvati.
The god is of gigantic size, and has six
arms, and Pârvatí is advancing towards
him between two female attendants.
Above are Brahmā, Vishnu on Garuda,
and other gods. The pillars resemble
those at Elephanta. Fronting Shiva is
a painting of a Portuguese saint, and
Mr. Salt remarks that “there is,
perhaps, no spot in the world where
the catholic and heathen imagery come
so closely in contact as here.”
Magatani Caves.—Two miles south
by east from Montpezir are the caves
of Magatani, which are in a most
decayed state, and the entrance over-
own with thick bushes. It seems
oubtful whether it would be worth
'. traveller's while to explore them, a
task from which Mr. Salt excused
himself.
Jageshwar Caves.—Six miles to the
south of Magatanie Caves are those of
Jageshwar, which are two miles N. E.
of the village of Jageshwar, and this
# is eight miles to the N. of
&him, the town at the N. W. point
of the island of Bombay. The west
entrance to these caves is that now
used; but the decorations on the east
side are more carefully executed, and
the principal entrance was probably
there. Over the sloping path that
leads to the western entrance, a natural
arch is formed by the branches of a
banyan tree, which, shooting across,
have taken root on the other side, and
render the approach singularly pic-
turesque. Eight steps lead down to
a small ante-room, in which the figures
are greatly decayed. A door leads into
the great cave, and above this are two
figures in the attitudes in which Rāmah
and Sítá are often represented. The
great cave is 120 feet square, and 18
feet from the door are 20 pillars of the
same order as at Elephanta, forming an
inner square. Within, there is a
chamber 24 feet square, with doors
corresponding to each other on the four
sides. This is a temple sacred to
Mahādeo. On the walls are the
vestiges of many figures. Over the
door at the east entrance is a curious
design of a monster, with the mouth of
a. £ trunk of an elephant,
and a dragon's tail, which appears to
vomit forth a sculptured group, repre-
senting Rāmah and Sítá, supported by
Rāvan. From this entrance two vesti-
bules lead to three doorways, which
again open into the great cave. Over
the doorways are some curious designs,
as, e.g., over the centre one a figure
resembling Buddha, and on one side a
hero leaning on a dwarf, who grasps in
his hands two enormous snakes that
are closely twined round his body.
Adjoining the principal cave are several
vihdras. The whole locality is much
infested by tigers, and Mr. Salt saw
the footprints of many of these animals.
Vihar, or Vehar.—The traveller who
has leisure and is fond of shooting, will
do well to send a tent to Wehar, which
is 144 miles from the Fort of Bombay,
and on the road to the caves. Here the
magnificent waterworks for supplying
the city of Bombay are well worth in-
spection; and snipe and quail are to be
found in abundance.
The City of Wasai (Bassein) and
Ghord Bandar.—While at Thánah, a
visit may be conveniently paid to Ghora
Bandar, the Montpellier of Bombay,


Bombay.
311
RouTE 2.—wASAí, OR BASSEIN.
whither invalids betake themselves for a
short change of air when unable to go to
Mahābaleshwar. “The Ghorá Bandar
river flows between lofty hills, beauti-
fully wooded, and studded here and there
with antique ruins and huge masses
of dark rock, fringed with luxuriant
creepers.”* It enters the sea about 8
miles to the N.W. of Thánah, and the
same distance S. E. of the city of Bas-
sein, which is on the S. coast of an
island that lies to the N. of the island
of Salsette, and separated from it by a
frith about 3 miles wide. Visitors from
Bombay generally take boat there, and
for the moderate sum of a pound are
landed at Ghorá Bandar. Above the
landing-place, amid lofty and luxuriant
trees, is a many-turreted Portuguese
monastery, which has besides a dome
similar to that of a mosque. It contains
several excellent apartments, lighted
by large windows, commanding magni-
ficent views of the surrounding scenery.
“On the one side are seen the pic-
£ windings of the beautiful and
placid river, its rocks, and trees, and
mountain scenery; while on the other,
a wide P: covered with fine planta-
tions of rice and sugar-cane, stretches
away to a considerable distance, where
the river, forming a natural boundary
to Salsette on one side, on the other,
washes the extensive walls of the city
of Bassein. A Parsi tower and the
ruins of cloisters are scattered about the
ground on which the monastery stands,
while the rich and tangled underwood
affords shelter to many a snake and
beast of prey. The Ghorá Bandar
river abounds with alligators and otters,
and the sportsman will find good em-
loyment for his rifle along its banks.
' Ghorá Bandar, an hour's sail
takes the traveller to Bassein.
Wasat, or Bassein.—More than half a
century has passed since the city of
Bassein ceased to be inhabited. A few
wild huntsmen and fishermen now alone
occupy a spot which was once the seat
of luxury and power. The market-
place, cloisters, and churches are in a
state of ruin and desolation, overgrown
with grass, and garlanded with para-
* “Western India in 1838,” p. 174.
sitical plants, which hasten their des-
truction. Silence reigns throughout,
and the traveller's step startles the owl
and the lizard, or makes the cobra dart
forth with inflated hood. The city
contains eight churches of considerable
size, and, according to the authoress of
“Western India,” * “great architec-
tural beauty;” though Heber remarks
of them that they “are all in a P:
style : of Grecian mixed wit
Gothic.” The most perfect are those
of St. Paul and St. Francis, both
which have square towers, with cloisters
and priestly residences attached. They
have tower-steeples without spires,
while the churches in Salsette have
small arched pediments to hang the
bell, which is usual in Wales. The
roofs of the Bassein churches are very
steep and covered with tiles; and one
which appears to have belonged to a
house o £ has the remains of a
handsome coned ceiling of teak, carved.
and gilded. Among the ruins many
richly chiseled tombs will be discovered
by the traveller, as that of Don Lorenço,
: encountered the Turkish armada
near Diu, and that of Alphonso Albu-
querque, who first took Goa. Heber
also notices the monument of Donna
Maria de Souza, dated 1606. A good
description of Bassein, with an account
of the inscriptions to be there found, is
still a desideratum.
The first notice we have of Bassein is
in 1532, when the Portuguese ravaged
the neighbourhood and burned all the
towns between it and Chikli Târâpur. *
In 1534 they took Daman, and obliged
Sultán Bahádur of Gujarat, then hard
pressed by the Emperor Humāyún, to
cede Bassein in perpetuity, on the 17th
of February, 1765. Chimnaji Appa,
brother of the Peshwā Bājí Ráo I.,
invested Bassein, and the town sur-
rendered on the 16th of May, after a
most desperate resistance, in which the
commandant, Silveira de Mineyes, was
killed, and 800 of the garrison killed
and wounded, while the Marātha loss
was upwards of 5,000. The capitula-
* P. 180.
t Grant Duff's “History of the Marathas,”
Vol. i., pp. 75, 76.


312
Sect. I.
norm; 2.—wAsAi-xurin.
tion was made b Captain de Souza
Pereira, and the historian of the Mara-
t_has declares that it was the most
vigorous siege ever prosecuted by that
people, while another authority* says
that “no contest had been so lorious
for the Indo-Portuguese.” y the
terms of capitulation, “ all the garrison,
as well regulars as auxiliaries,” were
allowed free passage out of the town,
“ with their arms in order, drums beat-
ing and colours flyin , also with four
ieces of cannon an two mortars.”
he seventh article declared, “that the
Christians, who remain voluntarily in
the lace shall enjoy the liberty of
wors ipping God in the faith they pro-
fess.” The English, who might easily
have saved the place, but, out of a
miserable jealousy, had refused all aid,
except 15,000 Rs., for which they took
the security of the church plate and
some brass guns, which were for the
purpose removed from the defences,
now made some amends for their oss
indifference to the interests of an a 'ed
nation. They sent boats with a strong
escort to bring off the garrison, per-
mitted them, 800 in number, to remain
in Bombay during the monsoon, and
advanced 4,000 rupees monthl for their
support. But the disasters o the gal-
lant Portuguese were not over. On the
29th of September they left Bombay,
but, taking the overland route from
Chawal (Choul) to Goa, were attacked
by Khem Sawant, with 300 horse and
5,000 foot, and, after a furious contest
of two hours, routed, with the loss of
200 of their best men.1~ The remnant
escaped to Goa, where the English com-
modore saw them arrive “with care
and grief in their faces." The Portu-
guese neverrecovered this blow, and soon
after ceded the forts of Chawal and
Maira to the Marathas. On the 13th
of November, 1780, General Goddard
arrived before Bassein, and on the 28th
his first battery opened a ainst it. He
had a very powerful arti lery, and one
battery of 20 mortars, which was shortly
after opened at the distance of 500
' "Bombay Quarterly Review" for July,
I856, No. v1i., p. 84. _
W1‘ ‘Bombay Quarterly Review,” No. vli.. D.

A
yards, did great execution. The place
surrendered on the llth of December,
on which day Colonel Hartley, with a
covering army of 2,000 men defeated the
Maratha relievin army of upwards of
24,000 men, and killed its distinguished
General, Ramchandar Ganesh.
(b) Kalg/dzi.—This is a very ancient
town, and in early times was no doubt
the capital of an extensive rovince.
There is ood reason to think that a
Christian ishop resided at Kalyan in
the beginning of the 6th century, A.D.
Thus, when Cosmas Indico leustes
sailed down the western coast o India,
he found at “Male, where the pepper
grows, a regularly ordained clerg , and
at Kalliana a Persian bishop.” en
the Muhammadan power extended itself
over the Dakhan, the province of
Kalyani fell to Ahmadnagar, but was
ceded by that state to Bijapur in 1636,
and being divided into two, the N. part
extending from Bhiwadi to Nagatha-
nah, was placed under a new governor,
who resided at Kalyan. In 1648 Ab-
baji Sondeo, a Brahman general, under
Sivaji’s orders, sur rised Kalyan, and
was appointed by ivaji, Suibahdar of
the province. In 1780 the Marathas
having cut oil‘ the supplies from Bom-
bay and Salsette, which were usually
brought to those places from the main
land, and were so necessary to the in-
habitants of Bombay especially, the
government of that place determined
to occupy the Konkan opposite Thanah
as far as the Ghats. Accordingly,
several posts were seized, and Kalyan
amon them, and here Ca tain Richard
Camp ell was placed wit a garrison.
Nana Farnavis forthwith assembled a.
large force to recover Kalyan, on which
he set a high value, and his first opera-
tions were ve successful. He attacked
the English a vanced post at the Ghats,
consisting of four European officers,
two companies of sipahis, and some
European artillerymen with three guns,
captured the and killed or made
prisoners the whole detachment. He
then compelled Ensign Fyfe, the only
survivin olficer, to write to Ca tain
Campbe l, that, unless he surren ered,
he would put all his prisoners, 26 in


Bombay.
313
ROUTE 2.-BOMBAY T0 KAMPlJLl.-—-KAMPfTLlT-
number, to death, storm Kalyan, and
put all the garrison to the sword. To
this, Campbell replied‘* that “ the N ans
was welcome to the town if he could
take it,” and, after a spirited defence,
-was relieved by Colonel Hartle on
the 24th of May, just as the ara-
thas were about to storm. The re-
remains of buildings round Kalyfin
are very extensive, and Fryer, who
visited the place in 1673, “gazed
with astonishment on ruins of stately
fabrics, and many traces of departed
magnificence.”
It is especially deserving of notice that
the inscriptions at Kfiinhari, which are
marked XIV. and XV. by Dr. Stevenson
in his paper in the Bombay Asiatic So-
ciety’s journal for Jul , 1853, establish
the fact that Chiina ya, the famous
receptor and prime minister of Chau-
a-gupta or Sandrocottus, was a native
of Kal an. He is called in the inscrip-
tions amila, which signifies Malaba-
rian. The XV. inscription runs thus:
—“To the Perfect One. To Diimila,
inhabitant of Kalyan, famed through-
out the world, and purified, the religious
assignation of a cave and cistern in the
Kanha Hill.” It is shown by Wilford
in “Asiatic Researches,” vol. ix., that
Chanakya finished his life as a penitent
or religious recluse, and, being a native
of Kalyan, he probabl retired to the
neighbourhood of the K)i1I}hflYl caves. It
may be fairly conjectured that one of
his descendants, becoming a convert to
Buddhism, devoted his property to the
excavation of a monument to his great
rogeuitor, and hence the inscriptions.
everal other inscriptions will be found
in Dr. Stevenson's paper, commemorat-
ing thc names of natives of Kalyan.
Thus the first Prakrit inscri tion is by
Samidabha, a goldsmith of alyan, and
the fifth is by Bishi-hala of the same city.
Dr. Stevenson infers from the ap car-
ance of the letters, that the fifteent in-
scription was engraved shortly after the
commencement of the Christian era.
Further testimony to the ancient
splendor of Kalyan is found in the
Ratan Mala, or “ Garland of J cwcls,”
in which the Brahman Krishnaji cele-
brates the glories of the Solankhi
princes. The scone is Kalyiin, where
Rnjfi Bhuwar, the Solankhi‘, reigns, and
the time is the year of Vikram 752,
A.D. 696.4’ “The capital city, Kalyan,
is filled with the spoils of conquered
foes, with camels, horses, cars, elephants.
Jewellers, cloth-makers, chariot builders,
makers of ornamental vessels, reside
there, and the walls of the houses are
covered with colored ictures. Phy-
sicians and professors o the mechanical
arts abound, as well as those of music,
and schools are provided for public edu-
cation. It is for the sole purpose of com-
aring the capital city of Ceylon with
alyan, that the sun remains half the
year in the north, and half in the
south."
The traveller who would thoroughly
examine and describe the ruins of this
ancient city, and collect such local
legends as may exist, would be doing
good service to the cause of Indian
archaeological research. After leaving
Kalyan, the line of rail bends in a
complete semicircle to the S. E. and S.
until it reaches the village of Kampfili,
at the foot of the Ghats.
(0) Kamp:2li.——This is a large and
very pretty village, with a fine tank and
temple to Mahadcc, built by the cele-
brated Maratha minister, Nana Far-
navis, whose real name was Balaji‘
Janardhan Bhanu, and who was a
Konkani Brahman of the Cliitpaivan
tribe, a tribe which gave rulers to the
Maratha empire in the Peshwas, and
not improbahly produced the celebrated
Chanakya mentioned above. Kampiili
is 23 miles 3% fur. from Panwel. The
scencry is beautiful. At tho back of
Nana’s pagoda, the Ghfit rises perpen-
dicularly, and seems to overhang it.
Over the lake spreads a magnificent
banyan tree, and near it is a grove of
mango trees. Titwala and \V£isind are
stations on the N.E. branch of this line,
for which see Route 6. They are given
here to com lete the view of the works
finished on t e line.
' Grant Dufl"s Marathas, vol. L pp. 139, 141;
vol. ii., p. 414.
' Ras Mala, vol. i.,p. 26.
14


314
Sect. I.
RouTE 3.—BoMBAY TO PUNAH.
PLACES. T.
YELLU, dh...... ---
x Nirá "... to Sewri......
Kapral.............. -
KIKWI, dh . * * *
Panda .................. -
x Nirá r. to Sírwal b ...
KHANDALA, dh ......
Ascend Kāmākshi Ghât
3
Descend to bottom of ditto 1
1
Yella....
Kinial .... -
Sindúrjan........ - •
(i) Pass WAI and x
Krishná r. 140 yards
wide, to b..... -
Yeskarwāni.
Ascend Tài Ghat........
Summit of ditto .........
(k) MALCOLMPENTH
CAN TON MENT
CHURCH ............
Descend Rartunda or
Rartofidya Ghát ......
Bottom of Ghât .........
x Koiná r. ........ -
PAR.................... • * * *
(l) Descend Pár Ghát.
(Hence visit (kk) Pra-
'' •-
Kineshwar at bottom of
Ghat......... • -
Kápra ............
POLADPUR ....
x Säwitri r..........
(m) MAHAR, b .........
x Gandári r...............
Kambirli....
Ovár.....
Dásgåon ..
Kurdpalla..... -
LONARA ...............
Usarker .......
Talígā’on....
Garel........
x Kál r. ..
Kändär.....
x Gund r..
Tālūra ..
Kusambla.
Kasāna..... --
INDRAPUR ....
2
3
3
4
0
1
9
1
ROUTE 3.
BoMBAY To PúNAH (119 M. 4 F.), AND
THE MAHABALESHwAR HILLs (190M.
2 F.), VISITING THE CAVEs oF SAL-
SETTE AND KARLí, PASSING THROUGH
WAí, AND RETURNING BY PRATAP-
GARH AND NAGATHANAH.
294 M. 13 F.
For particulars of this Route as far as
Nárel, 53m.4f, see the preceding Route.
MILITARY AUTHORITY.—Officer Com-
manding Púnah Division—Phnah, to
Sewgangá r. Thence Officer Command-
ing at Sátárá—Satárd,
CIVIL AUTHORITY. — Collector at
Púnah-Panah, to the Sewgangá river,
between Kikwi and Khandálá. Thence
to the foot of the Hills: Commissioner
at Sátárá—Satárd. Thence to foot of
Hills towards Chikli: Superintendent
of Malcolm Peñth–Mahdbaleshwar.
Thence to Poládpar: Commissioner of
Sátárá–Sátárd. Thence to Naga-
thānah: Collector of Thánah—Thdnah.
PLACES. STAGES.
M. F. M. F.
Bombay to (a) Nárel
hence visit Mátheran)
See Route 2) ..... .... 53 4 53 4
Kampalí .................. 17 4 17 4
(b) KHANDALA at
summit of (aa) Bhor or
Bor (Bhore) Ghat, b. 5 2+ 52}
Wálwan .... .... 30
Wichira............ .... 10
(c) KARLI, b ......... ... 3 5% 7 5}
Pass several small ham-
lets to Iñdrawani r... 83
d) WARGANW, b..... 2 6 11 1
aligáñw Khind......... 34
Rd. by Bhojapur......... 0 13
NIGRI AKURIDI, b. 70 10 5:
(e) x Dápuri (Dapooree)
bridge (hence visit .
(f) £in: wad) ...... 7 0
(g) Khirki (Kirkee) can-
tonment ...... - 1 1}
t. b. at Pünah ............ 4 #
(h) PUNAH CHURCH 1 0# 13 53
Bibiwādi ................. . 3 1
Kátruj.... ... 204
Kátrujwadi. ...... 1 2%
Kátruj Ghat............... 1 04
Summit of Ghât ......... 2 4
Descend Ghāt ............ 0. 5
STAGES.
F. M. F.
2 12 - 0
3}
0
0 13 3} .
0
4
7 11 3
0
0
3
4
1
6 13 6
6
7 8 5
4%
4}
3} 11 4}
2%
6
0
6 5.6%
4
0
4+
2 11 2+
4
1 10 5
3
1
6
2
4
7 9 7
2
0
7
6
2
7
0
5
4
6 11 7
4


Bombag/. ROUTE
315
3.—no1uBsr ro 1>r'INs.rr——1v$nr:r..



rmcns. srsons.
l\[. F. M. F.
Budhauli . ........... 0 7
Patnal 0 2
Vavu........ 0 7%
Ratwan .. 1 1%
Bhfin ....... 1 2
Kaloli 0 5
>< Kolé.r1_-.... 0 7
PUGAPON ............ .. 2 7 9 3
NAGATIIANAH (NA-
GOTNA) ............. .. 9 1 9 1
BOMBAY, by water 36 0 36 0
294 1;
(a) Ndrel and Mdtheran. —Before
leaving Kampfili the traveller may pay
a visit to Matheran, a delightful hill
station, first visited by Europeans, for
the purpose of residence at least, by Mr.
Hugh Malet and his family in 1850;
but, since the railwa was opened in
April, 1855, from K yan to Kampiili,
the resort of the Governor and principal
inhabitants of Bombay. To reach the
place he must return to Narel, or halt
there for the day, and next moming
pass on to Kampfili, which has been
alread described. See Route 2.)
If t e traveller loo across the harbor
of Bombay he will observe an enormous
mass of flat-topped mountain, about
2,250 ft. high, facing him like a wall. The
name of this is Parbnl. Over the right
hand, or south-eastern, extremit will
be observed a curious broad-shou dered
hill, terminating in two low conical
peaks,—this is ano Machhi, a portion
of the Bhor Ghat mass, by the base of
which runs the steepest part of the
Railway Incline. Over the other ex-
tremity of Parbfil, where the mountain
terminates in two singular peaks, the
summits of Matheran may be observed.
The mass fills up the whole interval be-
twixt the railway and the old Panwel
and Khandalé. roads. From Chauk,
whence the original bridle path to
Matheran used to ascend, to the Narel
railwa station, from which visitors now
take t eir departure, the distance in a
straight horizontal lino exceeds 12 miles;
it is nearly 16 by the path across the hill.
Matheran is a vast mass of trap of vari-
ous kinds, much of it highly crystallized

and of great hardness.
the north a nearly straight and even
wall of 2,000 ft.; above this are num-
berless peaks, glens, ravines, and hil-
loeks; the uppermost part for 40 or
50 ft. consists of laterite, boulders of
which of five or six cubic feet are to
be found some way down the hill.
The thickness of the lateritc cap has
been very well made out, numbers of
wells having been dug through it, and
so down to the trap, which is com-
monly reached in from 20 to 30 ft.,
water always making its appearance at
the line of Junction. Until 1854 Mathe-
ran was accessible only from the Panwel
side by a bridle path leading from Ohauk
on the Prinah road, in the valley of the
little River Pen, up to the top of the hill.
It presents on
\Vhen the railwaiy was opened, a very‘
skilfully designe and well executed
road was cut, under the supervision of
the late Mr. \Vest, from the Narel Sta-
tion to the top of the hill. If the
traveller leave Bombay with the Satur-
day half-past three o'clock train, after a
ma nificent view of the beautiful range
of ills along the base of which the
railway passes, he will reach Nfsrel by
half-past six o’cloek, but, unless it be
full moon, the ascent had better be de-
ferred till next morning. Dinner can
be had from a. Parsi mess-man close by,
but it is well to be provided with a
basket of eatables, which makes a very
small addition to the lu gage. All the
station-houses are furnis ed with abund-
ancc of tables and chairs, a ood lamp,
and comfortable couches. T c neatness
and cleanness of everything strike those
who remember the filth and untidiness
of the majority of travellers‘ ban las.
Nothing can surpass the civility of the
attendants, and for all this there is no-
thing whatever to ay, as the railway
servants accept no ees. The traveller
on reaching Nirrel should order a pony
to take him up the Ghat next morning,
with kulis to carry his luggage. The
distance from the station to the further
cnd of the hill, where a bakery presents
the only ublic place of refreshment of
which athcran at present boasts, is
eight miles, and it takes two good hours
to accomplish it. A pony costs 1% ru-


316 noun: 3.—noiin.iY
T0 i>1iivsii—iv.in1:i.. Sect. I.
pees a day, and the ascent counts as a
day's work. A l_{lill receives a § rupee
and though there is the usual clamor
for cherrimeri, gratuities should be made
as moderate as possible, or prices will
soon become extravagant. The road is
excellent, and, considering the height
to be ascended, not at all too steep for
a good pedestrian to enjoy the walk.
The succession of views presented b
the ascent are endlessly varied, an
many of them of surpassing beauty.
About half up the hill there is a long
easy slope, where a carriage might drive,
the ground on both sides presenting the
most tempting facilities for landscape
gardening—Nature having left matters
here just as if soliciting a trifling help
from the hand of man. The road to-
wards the top becomes a steep zig-zag,
the turns of which exhibit in succession
the series of staircases and galleries the
traveller has been traversin . On a -
proaching the summit of t e hill t e
roads become so spacious, are so per-
fcctly constructed and admirably kept,
that it seems next to impossible to sup-
pose that this exquisite and fashionab e
sanatarium, with a gentleman’s seat and
grounds at every hundred yards, had,
within these eight years, never been
trodden by a white man’s foot, and was
tenanted only b the tiger and leopard
and wild boar. l’assing along an almost
level ridge for about a mile, a little
Portuguese church, the only place of
worship on the hill, is reached. A
hundred yards further on is the bakery
forming the hotel—an nninviting place
enough certainly; but Matheran has so
many attractions of its own. that the
visitor is not very particular as to
matters of domestic accommodation.
After making his toilette and breakfast-
ing, the traveller may pass the greater
part of the day in visiting the different
view-points on the hill. The most
striking of these is that called Panorama
Point, at its western extremity, where it
seems to attain its greatest elevation.
Immediately in front, in the middle
distance, is the majestic Bhiio Mallin,*

presenting the reverse face to that passed
near Thfinah, and affording the most
superb background to the lon chain
of castellated peaks along the ase of
which the railway passes, now viewed
from the rear, fore-shortened and nearl
end on. The last of these is connect
by a picturesque ridge with Mfitheran
itself, from which it looks like a gigan-
tic spur. In the extreme distance be-
yond Bhao Mallin, are Thanah Water
and Creek, with the estuary which
divides Bombay from Salsette, stretch-
ing away down towards the harbor
like a silver band. The harbor itself is
one sheet of beauty.
"With all its fairy crowds
OI Islands, which tgigether lie,
As uietl as sea. an sky
Am dst t e evening clouds.”
Kanhari seems a mere spot on the hori-
zon, but it is difficult to make out the
line where the sea and sky unite. Up
the hollow is a long level valle inter-
sected by winding streams, an deco-
rated by villages, corn-fields, and clum s
of trees. Ever here and there a litt e
castellated pea rises 500 or 600 ft.
above the plain, a miniature copy of the
gigantic pmnacles, from 1500 to 2000ft.
high, springing up in the most majestic
forms everywhere around. Turning to
the north and east, the Railway and
N arel station are immediately beneath
the gazer. The superb ridges, stretch-
ing towards the Tal Ghat, close up the
line of an enormous sweep of the
Northern Koiikan. The needle-shaped
peaks of J ano Maoli, as majestic as
those around Matheran itself, shut the
background, and stand out clear and
firm against the sky. On the other
side of Panorama Point the flat-togped
Parbfil with its gigantic peaks and ut-
periodical pilgrim es to his tomb, and great
crowds flock to t e holy place. On the
summit oi’ the mountain are the remains of a
fort, to which the only means oi’ access was a
flight oi narrow steps cut, or rather notched,
in the rock, with a miserable shaky wooden
banister, quite insecure. This frightful as-
cent oi‘ 200 ft. perpendicular at the top oi’ a
mountain, where a tremendous gust might
sweep the climber in n moment from his
hold, was destroyed by Captain, now General
Dickinson, about 40 ears ago, by order of
Government. The in ddle fort is below the
scarp, and is now deserted. Amongst the
* Bhao Mallin has its name from a Muham-
madan Pir or Saint, who is said to have chosen
this mountain for his residence. There are
first operations oi’ the Bombay army was the
siege _oi’ this fort-, and considerable loss was
experienced in assaulting it.


Bombay. noon: 3.—nonnaY ro
1>u1r.u1——ran anon ensr. 311
n
tresses, and the great pro'ecting spur of
Matheran itself, shut 111 t e view. Re-
turning to the bakery the traveller may
next proceed to Louisa Point, which
overlooks a ma'estic cliff, whence, in the
rainy season, alls a cataract 100ft. in
width, and which bounds into the valley
below by a single leap of 1000 feet. So
strong and gusty is the wind here
at times that the cataract seems to
struggle against it in dubious conflict,
the water with some ditficulty forcing
its way through the troubled air. Re-
turning once more to the original start-
ing-pomt, the visitor should now make
his way through the picturesque hollow,
where a series of ponds are being con-
structed up to the crest of the waterfall
itself, whence another scene of surpass-
ing grandeur presents itself. The tra--
veller is now in the ver midst of those
majestic mountains that make the Ghal;
scenery of Bombay harbor the most pic-
turesque and beautiful in the world.
The vast flat-topped mass of Parbfil,
which seen from Mazagffoli, seems
right over Panwel, stands close in
front, separated from Matheran by a
valley half-a-mile across, and nearly
2,000 feet in depth, through which
winds :1 beautiful silver stream. To
the southward are the valley of the
river Pen and the mountains skirting
the old Punah road. Funnel Hill
stands up quite alone, et at some dis-
tance are many simiar hills, close
copies of the ori iual, about one-fourth
of its size. T ese seen from below,
where they form the fore-ground, seem
very respectable eminences. Looking
down upon them from an altitude of
2000ft. where they occupy the middle
distance, they seem mere hillocks.
There is still one more view to be
visited before retiring for the evening
meal. A short cut across the hill, by
the elegant mansion of Mr. Chapman,
leads to the edge of a tremendous
ravine, which here cleaves the hill
nearly in two. There are traces of
numberless waterfalls down both its
sides, with a river channel which is
singularly picturesque when full. The
glen widens and opens out in the di-
rection of Khandala; the Duke’s Nose
and other well-known mountains being
conspicuously in view. And here, be-
fore taking leave of the scenery of
Matheran, it ma be remarked how
frequently the hi s seem to repeat the
form of the Duke’s Nose. Scimitar-
formed promontories resembling that at
Khandala, which monopolises the name
to which a dozen rivals might equally
lay claim, present themselves almost
whichever way we turn.
Next to the beautiful scenery of Ma-
theran, the grand attraction for the
Anglo-Indian is the cool slumber the
elevation insures him. To require a
blanket in the end of May, and find the
thermometer from dark to dawn below
70, is such unspeakable luxury, that it
would requite the trouble of the jour-
ney were this thc only en'oyment held
out. If returning to ombay, the
traveller must start before dawn, so as
to be in time for the 7 o'clock train at
Narel. If a good pedestrian, he will
find it pleasanter to walk down than to
ride. He should, however, attend to
the precaution observed in Switzerland,
of strapping a strong leather thong
round his shoe at the mstep so that the
pressure ma fall on the crown of the
arch of the oot. \Vithout this, or with
a slack shoe, he is sure to bruise his
toes, so as to lame him for a week.
The accommodation for casual visitors
at Matheran is at present imperfect.
By next season it will probably present
a hotel or a clubhouse.
(am) The Bhor or Bor* Glui_t.—Kam-
p\’1li is not 200 ft. above the sea, while the
Government bangld, at Khandala, the
lowest point on the table-land reached
by the railway, is 1,800. At Lanauli,
the Ghat is 2,037 feet above the sea,
~and is naturally an abrupt and volcanic
scarp, which is the general character of
the Sahyadri Range. The heights of
the Kasfir, the Malsej, and the Tal
Ghats, are 2,149 feet, 2,062 feet, and
1,912 feet respectively. The importance

* This name is, perhaps, from Bar a
Maratha word for the Jujube tree-Zizypiius
J ujuba. Drummond, however (Illmtraliom of
Gr-am.). derives it from the Bhor river, but
does not explain whence the river has its
name. It would probably be from Bhowad,
“ whirl."


318
Sect. I.
-nourn 3.—BOM]3.\Y T0 riiiurr-—:rns anon oair.
of the Bhor and the Tal Ghat, may be
understood from the fact that, along
range of 220 miles of the Sahyadri
Mountains, there are no passes for
wheel traflic from Bombay to the in-
tcrior of the country, but these two.
The many so-called Ghats are merely
precipitous footpaths for natives, or
steep, windin , ru ged tracks for ack-
bullocks. T e éfinah and Ca cutta
road crosses the Bhor Ghat, and the Agra
road the Tal Ghat. The present road
over the Bhor Ghat was constructed 25
years ago, is three miles long, has in
that distance about 40 well defined
turns, besides curvatures, and leads to a
point 150 feet higher than the Railway
arrives at. The first incline for the
G. I. Peninsular Railway over this
Gh-.’rt_ was laid in 1852, and at its base
crossed some low ground on the left of
the Ulasa valley, near the village of
Padasdarf, and proceeded along the
N. flank of the spur, which projects from
the main escarpment near Khandéla.
It ascended this mountain side, crossing
several spurs of the Songirf Hill, above
the village of Newalf, and rose along the
upper edge of a basaltic dykc, above the
village of Bhfr to the Kh1'1i1_i, or Pass,
called Mhau ki Mali. It then curved
through the Khamni Hill, and reached
a natural terrace near the hamlet of
Thakfirwada. Thence it ran for two
miles to Gambhirnath, where it crossed
two ravines, and ascended to a height
called Nath ks Dorlgar, and, passing a
deep chasm, entered upon a long level
depression in the crest of the ridge.
From this an inclined plane of 1 in 20,
and 1 mile and Q long for stationary
engines was laid alon the east of the
Shfbi Hill, passing un er the mail road
below the old temple, and up the mural
precipice of the main Ghat to its crest
on the rice ground, to the N. of Sir
Jamshid'i’s bangld. Thence the line
passed y a tunnel under the said
ground to the rice fields on the S. of
the Khandala Tank, whence it turned
into its proper direction, and crossing
the mail road about half a mile above
Khandéla, ran to the summit of the
incline near the village of Tungarli.
lts M 1 -1 length was 13} miles; its rise
a ' £483,900. The difficulties in this
was 1,796 feet; and its estimated cost
plan
induced Lord Dalhousie, in 1853, to
call for further investigation, and this
led to the examination by Mr. Berkley,
the Chief En ineer, of the Kasur, Saoli,
Kuraunda, awa, W i, Sawasni,
Kauni, Bhurfi , Gardo et, Pimpri,
Kumbha, and iptati Ghats, none of
which were found so eli ible as the Bhor
Ghat. It was proved, or example, that
the Kasur Ghat, on the River Kndhru,
with 1,728 feet to be ascended, would
require a gradient of 1 in 33 instead of
1 in 40, as at the Bhor Ghat, and be, in
other respects, greatly more difiieult.
A new incline up the Bhor Ghat was
now adopted, and as the works in ro-
gress alon it are the most stupen ous
of the kin in the world, they deserve a
somewhat detailed notice here. For the
first four miles from Padasdari to Mhau
kt Mali, the route was entirely changed.
It now skirted the foot of the spur,
and turned its S.W. angle below
Songiri Hill to its S. flank, up
which it ascends to Mhau kf Mali.‘ By
this the gradient was reduced from 1 in
35 to 1 in 50 and 1 in 40. From
Khamni Hill to the Khind, the course
was very slightly altered, but from that
point it was entirely changed. This
was accomplished by adhenni to the
side of the great ravine below K andalfi,
b sweeping round the W. slope of
Shibi Hill, and by perforating by a lon
timnel the lofty projection on whie
Mr. Adamson’s ouse now stands.
Emerging from this tunnel, the altered
incline ascends the precipitous escarp-
ment on the left margin of the great
Khandéla Ravine. It rises to a new
summit near the village and beautiful
wood of Lauauli. Thus the stationary
engine plane was dispensed with, but
the wor s in the upper portion were
much increased. In 1854-5, improve-
ments were introduced. A reversing
station was then carried down across
the mail road to the Hill op osite to
Toll _House, and thence asccn ed alon
the Battery Hill, recrossed the mail,
road a second time, traversed the head
of the large ravine undcr the mountain
called “the Duke’s Nose,” entered the


Bombay.
319
nonrn 3.—BOMBAY T0 1>1'msn—rrm anon enér.
tunnel, through the same hill as before,
swept round the side of a lateral ravine
through Khandala village, and bisecting
the ‘Tank, struck nearly into the
original line. The incline, as it is now
being constructed, is 15 miles 68 chains
long; the level of its base is 196 feet
above high water mark in Bombay,
and of its summit 2,027 feet, so that the
total elevation surmounted in one lift is
1,831 feet. Its average gradient is
1 in 48.
The total length of tunneling is
2,535 yards. Short additional tunnels
will probably be substituted for the
deepest parts of some of the cuttings.
There are eight viaducts, of which the
iijgmensions are given in the following
t :—
Viaduct Yds.long. I:‘t.high.
No. 1, eight 50 ft. arches...168 127
2, six 50 ,, ...12s 95
3, four 50 ,, 85 74
4, four 50 ,, 85 94
5, eight 50 ,, ...168 139
6, six 40 ...101 s5
7, four 30 ,, 52 45
8 ............. ..101 56
The total quantity of cuttings amounts

to 1,623,102 cubic yards. The largest
cuttings contain respectively :-—
113,000 cubic yards.
72,000
96,000
77,000
75,000 ,,
greatest depth of cutting is 80
he embankments amount to
1,849,934 cubic yards. The heaviest
embankments contain, respectively,-
159,000 cubic yards.
The
feet.
128,000 ,,
139,000 ,,
263,000 ,,
125,000 ,,
209,000
1!
Their maximum height is 74 feet.
There will be 18 bridgdes of various spans,
from 7 to 30 ect an 58 culverts from
2 to 6 feet span. i The estimated cost of
this incline is £597,222, or £41,188 a
mile, and its completion has been con-
tracted for in five years from the date of
commencement, which will expire i11
February, 1861.
A comparison between the Bhor Ghot
and the two most remarkable mountain
inclines in Europe is given below :—

Name of Incline.
Lenzth.
Total Ascent.
GIOVI INCLINE ....... ..
SEMMERING INCLINE
Ascent from Paycrback to
Scmmering ....... .. 13% 1325

Miles. Feet
6 889
Descent from Semmering
to Miirzzuschlag .....
BHOR GIIHT INCLINE 15% i1831
>
sg 705



.s B.» i 3'-5 55 Sharpest Curves. 33%
5% E? 2 2
53¢ Eu 5 £5
M11 .
1 in 36 1 in 29 20 chains radius. 2.5?
1 in 47 1 in 40 30 curves of 10
chains radius, 2 66
and 38 curves '
1in501in50 of14 C.R.
1 of 15, and 2
1 in 48 1 in 37 of 20 chains 1.44
radius.

The Giovi incline is upon the Turin
and Genoa Railway, and commences
7} miles from Genoa, at a point 295
feet above the level of the Mediterra-
nean, and ascends the Apennincs.
The Semmering incline is u on the
Vienna and Trieste Railway, an crosses

the Noric Alps at the Pass of that
name. It is replete with extensive and
extraordinary works. The reliminary
operations and study of t is incline
occupied from 1842 to 1848, a period of
six years ; it was opened in May, 1854,
its construction having taken five and a


320
Sect. I.
noun: 3.——-nounsr T0 ri'n~'AH——xnA1vni1..i.
half years. Upon the Bhor Ghfit, about
four years have been spent in pre-
liminaries, and the works will be com-
pleted in five years from the date of
their commencement.
The beautiful scenery of the moun-
tains, and the remarkable character of
the incline, make the passage of the
Bhor Ghat one of the most remarkable
stages in Indian travel. In consequence
of the reversing station, one portion of
the incline will be nearly parallel to and
much above the other, both being, as it
were, terraced 1,400 feet directly over
the Konkan. In some parts the line is
one half on rock benching, while the
other half consists of a very lofty em-
bankment, sometimes retained by a
Wall of masonry. In other places, on
account of the enormous height, em-
bankment is impossible, and while half
the width of the railway is on rock
benching, the other half rests on vaulted
arches. The viaduct that crosses the
Mhau ki Mali Khind is 163 ft. high
above the footin , and consists of eight
semi-circular arc es of 50 ft. span. On
the whole the traveller will here find
much to astonish and delight him.
(Z1) .Kh1mda'la'.——This beautiful vil-
lage has for more than 20 years been a
favourite retreat for the wealthy inhabi- i
tants of Bombay from the distressing
heat of the summer months. It pre-
sents so many attractions to the tourist
and the sportsman that as many days as
can be spared may well be 'ven to it.
The village itself is large, an , now that
the railway is open, must extend rapidly.
The second ban lfi reached is one on the
left of the road, uilt by General Dicken-
son, of the Bombay Engineers, who did
much to make the place known, and to
improve the roads. The site of this
hangla is well chosen. It overlooks a
tremendous ravine, the sheer depth of
which is in great part concealed by
luxuriant trees. At the bottom winds
:1 small silvery stream. This ravine
harbors many wild beasts, and at night
tigers, leopards, and bears ascend the
steep sides, and are often seen even
under the windows of the bangles.
The natives, when they get sight of
them, raise wild shouts to scare them

away; and these cries, echoing among
the hills, and a knowledge of the purpose
for which they are raised, have a not
very encouraging effect on the lonely way-
farer. About a quarter of a mile from this
stands the traveller’ s bang-la, also on the
ed e of the ravine; and on the right is
a arge tank, adjoining which is the
bangla of Sir Jamshidji J ijibhai. Lead-
ing past this, to the East, is a road
to a magnificent hill called the Dnke’s
Nose, whence is a fine view over
the Kofikan, similar to those at M atheran,
already described. Beyond the tank is
the village of Kbandala; and still further
on the Kurli road is the beautiful wood
of Lanauli, where wild boar and other
game ma be found. A gentleman
riding in t is direction some years ago
came upon a party of seven large wolves.
who, however, did not attack or pursue
him.
The Waterfall. —Distant from the
traveller’s bangla, about half a mile on
the opposite side of the ravine, is a much
admired waterfall. To reach it it is
necessary to‘ go about a mile and a half
in order to get round the head of a water-
course. In doing this the site of a banglé
is passed, once the residence of Mount-
stuart Elphinstone,Governor of Bombay.
The foundation alone remains. In the
monsoon the distant view of the Fall
from the top of the Ghat is very fine.
There are then two cataracts, divided
into upper and lower bya short interval.
The flipper cataract has a sheer fall of
300 .
The European burial ground is
beside the tank, and is rather thickly
tenanted Herc is buried Mr. Graham,
who was the rincipal founder of the
Botanical Gardbn at Bombay, and whose
researches in the neighbourhood of the
Khandala Ghét were marked with much
success.
(0) Ka'rli.—The truveller’s next halt-
ing place must be Karli, where is a
travcller’s bangla and a barrack for
200 men, with a small village to the
right,'hid among trees. The celebrated
caves are on a hill about two miles to
the N. of the bangla.
The following is Mr. Fergusson's de-


Bombay. ROUTE 3.—BOMBAY
To PúNAH-KKRLí. 321
scription of the Kárli cave : *—“The
great cave of Kārli is, without excep-
tion, the largest and finest chaitya cave
in India, and is fortunately the best
preserved. Its interior dimensions are
102 ft. 3 in., in total length, 81 ft.
3 in length of nave. Its breadth from
wall to wall is 45 ft. 7 in., while the
width of the nave is 25 ft. 7 in. The
nave is separated from the side aisles
by 15 columns on each side, of good
design and workmanship. On the
abacus which crowns the capital of each
of these are two kneeling elephants, and
on each elephant are two seated figures,
generally a male and female, with their
arms over each other's shoulders; but
sometimes two female figures in the
same attitude. The sculpture of these
is very good, and the effect particularly
rich and pleasing. Behind the chaitya
are 7 plain octagonal piers without
sculpture, making thus 37 pillars alto-
gether. The chaitya is plain and very
similar to that in the large cave at
Ajayantí (Ajunta), but here, fortunately,
a part of the wooden umbrella which
surmounted it remains. The wooden
ribs of the roof, too, remain nearly
entire; and the framed screen, filling
up a portion of the great arch in
front, like the centering of the arch
of a bridge (which it much resem-
bles), still retains the place in which
it was originally placed. At some
distance in advance of the arched
front of this cave is placed a second
screen, which exists only here and at
the great cave at Salsette, though it
might have existed in front of the
oldest chaityacaves at Ajayanti (Ajunta).
It consists of two plain octagonal
columns with pilasters. Over these is
a deep plain mass of wall, occupying
the place of an entablature, and over
this again a superstructure of four
dwarf pillars. Except the lower piers,
the whole of this has been covered with
wooden ornaments; and, by a careful
examination and measurement of the
various mortices and footings, it might
still be possible to make out the greater
part of the design. It appears, how-
ever, to have consisted of a broad bal-
* Rock-cut Temples of India, page 27.
cony in front of the plain wall, sup-
ported by bold wooden brackets from
the two piers, and either roofed or
having a second balcony above it. No
part of the wood, however, exists now,
either here or at Salsette. It is more
than probable, however, that this was
the music gallery or Nagara Khánah,
which we still find existing in front of
almost all Jain temples, down even to
the present day. Whether the space
between this outer and the inner screen
was roofed over or not is extremely
difficult to decide. To judge from the
mortices at Salsette, the space there
would seem to have had a roof; but
here the evidence is by no means so dis-
tinct, though there is certainly nothing
to contradict the supposition. There
are no traces of painting in this cave,
though the inner wall has been plastered,
and may have been painted; but the
cave is inhabited, and the continued
smoke of cooking fires has so blackened
its walls that it is impossible to decide
the question. Its inhabitants are Shi-
vites, and the cave is considered a temple
dedicated to Shiva, the Daghopa per-
forming the part of a gigantic lingam,
which it resembles a good deal. All
the flat spots of the rock are, during
festivals, occupied by tents and the
booths of the various dealers in sweet-
meats and trinkets who frequent these
places.
“It would be of great importance if
the age of this cave could be positively
fixed; but though that cannot quite be
done, it is probably antecedent to the
Christian era; and at the same time it
cannot possibly have been excavated
more than two hundred years before
that era. From the Silasthamba (pil-
lar) on the left of the entrance, Colonel
Sykes copied an inscription, which Mr.
Prinsep deciphered in the sixth volume
of the Journal of the Asiatic Society.
It merely says, “This lion pillar is the
gift of Ajmitra Ukas, the son of Saha
Ravisabhoti; the character Prinsep
thinks that of the first or second cen-
tury, B.C. From its position and im-
port, the inscription appears to be
integral, and the column is certainly a
part of the original design.”


322
Sect. 1.
norrr: 3.-—nons.u' ro Pfir:An—Iu'Br.i.
According to a letter from Dr. Bird: is at least extremely probable,-though
to Mr. Fergusson, one inscription at
liirrli, is “ of the 20th year of Dattha-
ma. Hora, otherwise called Dattagamini,
king of Ceylon, n.c. 163." Mr. Fer-
gusson did not see this inscription ; and
could not tell therefore whether it is
integral or not, nor in what character
it is written; but thinks that unless
other circumstances confirm the iden-
tity, dependence ought not to be placed
upon the nominal similarit of a king
at so great a distance. In is work on
“The Caves of Westem India,” Dr.
Bird makes no mention of this inscrip-
tion. Dr. Stevenson (Bombay Asiatic
Societya Journal, vol. 5) gives 70 n.o.
as the date of the great cave temple at
K.'n'lcr'1,* executed according to this
Writer by the Emperor Devabhfiti, under
the care of Xcnocrates (Dhannkakata or
Dhcnukakati). The same authority
says that in 326 A.D. the village of
Karanja on the Ghats was made over
to the monks at Karlen by the two
great military commanders, who in the
struggles between the relgal Satraps
and Magadh emperors, ha most like y
wrcsted the adjacent territory from the
former, and resi ed it to the latter.
About the same time the Buddha on the
left of the entrance, where these in-
scriptions are found, was probably exe-
cuted. Dr. Stevenson adds that in
an 342 the monastery cave at Karleii
was excavated by a mendicant devotee.
But Mr.Thomas (Prinsep Papers, vol. ii.
p. 254) doubts the accuracy of these
dates.
“ In disposition and size, and also in
detail as far as similarity can be traced
between a cave entirely covered with
stucco and painted, and one which either
never had, or has lost both these orna-
ments, this cave,” says Mr. Fergusson,
“is so similar to the two at Ajunta,
which I had before placed about this
age, and on the front of it there 15 also
the reeded ornament, which is so com-
mon at Khandagiri, and only exists
there, and in the oldest caves at Ajunta;
that from all these circumstances I am
inclined to think the above date, 163 n.c.
' rms is the Iorm of spelling Karl! adopted
ul\'n_\‘s by Dr. Stevenson,
by no means as a date to be implicitly
relied upon.”
“It is to this cave more ially,”
says the same writer, “that the remark
applies that I made (p. 6) that the
chaitya caves seem at once to have
sprung to perfection; for whether we
ado t the Mahawanso for our guide,
or oka’s inscriptions, it is evident that
this country, under the name of Maha-
ratthan in the former, and Pitenika. in
the other, is one of the unconverted
countries to which missionaries were
sent in the tenth year of Asoka’s
reign; and if, therefore, we assume the
above date to be at all near the truth,
a century had scarcely elapsed between
the conversion of the country and the
execution of this splendid monument.
There is nothing in the Viharas here
or elsewhere, which I have placed
about the same date, that might not
have been elaborated from a natural
cavern in that eriod; but there is a
complication of esign in this that quite
forbids the supposition; and it must
either be brought down to a much more
modern epoch, or it must be admitted
to be a co y of a structural building;
and even t en but half the difficul is
got over. Was that structural buil ' g
a temple of the Brahmans or Buddhists P
was it desi ed or invented since the
death of Sa ya SinhaP or did it belong
to a former religion? and lastly, if we
are correct in supposing cave-digging to
have commenced only subsequent to
Asoka’s reign, why, while the vihfiras
were still so small and so insignificant,
was so great a work undertaken in the
rock?
“ It would be a subject of curious in-
quiry to know whether the wood work
now existing in this cave is that origi-
nally put up or not. Accustomed as I
had long been to the rapid destruction
of everything wooden in India, I was
half-inclined to be an when the idea.
first suggested itself to me ; but a calmer
survey of the matter has convinced me
that it is. Certain it is that it is the
original design, for we find it repeated
in stone in all the niches of the front,
and there is no appearance of change


Bombay.
323
ROUTE 3.—BOMBAY TO PIlNAB’—-\VAItG¢{’0iY.
or alteration in any part of the roof.
Every part of it is the same as is seen
so often repeated in stone in other and
more modern caves, and it must, there-
fore, have been put up b the Buddhists
before they were expe ed; and if we
allow that it has existed 800 or 1000
years, which it certainly has, there is
not much greater improbability in its
having existed near 2000 years, as I be-
lieve to be the case. As far as I could
ascertain the wood is teak. Though
exposed to the atmosphere, it is pro-
tected from the rain, and has no strain
upon it but its own weight, as it does
not support the roof, though it ap ears
to do so; and the rock seems to ave
defied the industry of the white ants.”
Mr. Fer usson appends to his notice
of this “decidedly the finest chaitya
cave in India,” a general description of
the arrangement of such caves. He
observes that the disposition of parts is
exaetl the same as those of the choir
of a othic round, or polygonal apse
cathedral. Across the front there is
always a screen with a gallery over it,
occupying the place of the rood-loft, on
which we now place our organs. In
this there are three doors; one, the
largest, opening to the nave, and one
to each of the side aisles. Over the
screen the whole front of the cave is
open to the air, being one vast window,
stilted so as to be more than a semi-
circle in height, or, generally, of a
horse -shoe form. The whole light falls
on the daghopa, which is exactl oppo-
site, in the place of the altar, w ile the
colonnade around and behind is less
perfectly lit,the pillars being very close
together. To a person standing near
the door there appeared nothing ehind
the daghopa but “illimitable gloom.”
The writer above-mentioned thinks
that a votary was never admitted be-
yond the colonnade under the front,
the rest of the temple being devoted to
the priests and the ceremonies, as in
China, and in Catholic churches, and
he therefore never could see whence the
light came, and stood in com arative
shade himself, so that the c ect was
greatly heightened. To the description
above given it is only requisite to add

that the hill in which the caves are is
very steep, and about 600 ft. hi h from
the plain. A huge round c' like a
tower shuts in the view in one direction.
The guides call the male and female
figures in the portico, bairdgis, or devo-
tees. The fi ure on the daghopa they
call Dharma aja, the Hindu Minos.
Besides the great cave at Karli, there
are a number of viharas, but small and
ver insignificant compared with it;
an this, Mr. Fergusson thinks, is a
proof of their antiquity. For at first
the viharas were mere cells, where, as
Fa-hian says, “ the Arhans sat to medi-
tate,” and as the reli ion was corrupted,
became magnificent alls and temples.
Such are the viharas at Ajnyanti. The
principal vihara at Karli is three tiers
in height. They are plain halls with
cells, but without any internal colon-
nades, and the upper one alone possesses
a verandah. The lower fronts have
been swept away by great masses of
rock which have rolled from above.
Near this is a small temple to Bhanfrvi,
with the figure of a tortoise in front of
the mm-ti, or “image,” which is that of
a moon-faced female with huge eyes.
There is a small village at the foot of
the hill, in which the caves are, called
Ekvira, and from this the great cave is
sometimes called the Cave of Ekvira.
Besides the caves, the traveller, while
at Karli, may also visit the hill forts of
Logarh and ’Isap\’1r,* which are at an
elevation of 1,200ft. above the plain,
with a sheer scar of 200ft. Logarh
was taken by Ma ik Ahmad from the
Marathas in 1485 A.D., and by Sivaji in
1648, and again by the same chief in
1670. It was here that the widow of
Nana Farnavis took refuge from the
time of Amrit Rao’s coming to Punah
on the 12th November, 1802, to March
16th, 1804, when General Wellesle ,
according to the proposal of Dhon (1
Balal 1_{il'adéLr, of Logarh, guaranteed
to her her safety, and an annual pension
of 12,000 rupees. Logarh was twice
taken by the English with little difficulty.
(d) Warymiw or Wnr_qd'o1i.— This
is a very large and flourishing vil-
lage, and celebrated for the defeat
‘ Grant I)'llfl'l Marifllas. DD. 73,110.


324
Sect. I.
novra 3.—-BOMBAY ro 1>1§'1\'An—vvARc.i’oiv.
of a considerable British force under
Lieut.-Col. Coekburn, on the 1‘Zth
and 13th of January, 1779, and for a
disgraceful convention concluded there
by Mr. Carnac with the Marathas. The
history of the affair is briefi this. The
Governor of Bombay, Mr. ornby, had
agreed with the ex-Peshwa Raghunath
Rae to place him at Pf1nah* as regent,
and sent a force of 3,900 men, of whom
591 were Europeans, to execute the
agreement. With this little army went
a triumvirate of two civil oflicers and
Colonel Egerton to direct operations.
One of the civilians, Mr. M ostyn, was sent
back sick, and died on the 1st of Jan.
at Bombay, without ever attending the
Committee. Mr. Carnac, as President,
with the casting vote, had now the full
power. The force advanced from Panwel
to Khandala, when Lieut.-Col. Cay was
killed by a rocket, the enemy's advanced
guard having commenced an attack as
soon as the troops surmounted the Ghat.
At Karli Captain Stewart, a most gal-
lant ofiicer, who, by his conspicuous
courage on many occasions, had won
from the Marathas the soubri net of
Stewart Phakre, or “ Stewart the ero,”
was killed by a cannon ball. The Ma-
ratha main army, which was commanded
by N ana Farnavis, and Mahadaji
Sindhia, Hari Pant Pharke, and Tukajf
Holkar, advanced to Taliga’oi'1, but re-
tired on the advance of the British,
having first destroyed the village. Col.
Egerton now resigned the command to
Lieut.-Col. Coekburn, and shortly after,
Mr. Carnae becoming alarmed, proposed
to retreat.
January the heavy guns were thrown
into a tank, a quantity of stores were
burned, and the retreat commenced. At
2 a.m. the Marathas began an attack,
plundered part of the baggage, and
shortly after completely surrounded the
army. The fiercest onset was made
upon the rear guard, which, but for the
heroism of its commander, Captain J amcs
Hartley, would have been cut to pieces.
Animated by his harangues, the sipahis
repulsed the enemy till 10 a.m., when
Colonel Coekburn sent peremptory or-
ders to retreat,—-orders which would
' Grunt D140": Mardtfuu, Vol. IL, p. 368.
On the night of the llth of i

have been fatal had they been obeyed.
But they were disregarded, and the
troops maintained the contest until a
favorable o portunity presented itself of
falling bac on Wargffon. The total
loss on this day was 352, among whom
were 15 European officers, killed and
wounded. Colonel Coekburn now de-
clared that further retreat was imprac-
ticable, and that the army was at the
mercy of the Marathas; and this pusi1-
lanimous opinion was vainly combated
by the gallant Hartley. Mr. Carnac
sent Mr. Holmes to make terms with
the enemy, and was not ashamed after-
wards to declare that he granted the
powers to that gentleman, under a
mental reservation that they were of no
validity. The terms agreed upon were
that everything should be restored to
the Marathas as held by them in 1773 ;
that the committee should send an order
to the Bengal column, advancing to their
support, to halt; that the English share
of Bharueh should be given to Sindhia,
and 41,000 rupees to his servants.
However, as soon as the committee
were safe down the Ghats they broke
faith, by countermanding the order to
the Bengal troops, thou h the Marathas
held two hostages, Mr. armer and Lt.
Stewart, for the due performance of the
treaty. For this disgraceful convention
and retreat, Colonel Egerton, Colonel
Coekburn, and Mr. Carnae were dis-
missed the service.
Uaves of Birsa and BrZj'al¢.—While at
\Varga’on, the traveller may pay a visit
to some caves a few miles ofi‘, and about
3 miles from Kérli.
In the Journal of the Bombay As.
Soc. for May, 1844, Art. vi., some ac-
count is given of these caves by Mr.
Westergaard, who writes to Dr. Bird as
follows: “I have just returned from a
visit to the caves in the neighbourhood
of Karli, and I am led to suppose that
the minor caves at Birsa and Bajah
might possibly have escaped your
notice. I take the liberty to send you
a short description with copies of the
few inscriptions there ; hoping that you
will not refuse this small contribution
to your most important and interesting
work on the Caves of \Vestern India.


Bombay.
325
noun: 3.—-BOMBAY T0 l’IlNAE—D.-iPIl'.Rl'.
The caves at Birsa are situated about
six miles S.\V. from \Varga’oi'i. The
plan of the temple resembles Karli, but
is neither of so great extent, nor so
well executed, and appears more modern.
It _cont_ains_ a dehgop; and its roof,
which is ribbed and supported by_ 26
octagonal pillars about 10 ft. high,
seems to have been covered with paint-
ings, which are now, however, so in-
distinct that nothing can be made out
of them. There are 4 pillars about
25 ft. hi h in front, surmounted by a
group 0 horses, bulls, and elephants.
The first pillar supports a horse and a
hull, with a male and female rider;
the next, three clephants_and one horse,
two of the elephants having a male and
female rider; the third, three horses and
one elephant, a male and female rider
being placed on two of the horses ; and
the fourth pillar is surmounted by two
horses bearing a male and female rider.
The hall of instruction, which is of an
oval shape, has a vaulted roof, and is
situated close to the temple. It con-
tains 1l small cells, and over the door
of one of them there is an indistinct and
partly defaced inscription, which will be
immediately noticed.
“ The caves of Bajah are situated 3m.
S.E. from the village of Karli. The
principal temple contains a dehgop, but
no sculptures, and has its roof supported
by 27 plain pillars. Outside there is a
group executed in baa relief, now much
efaee_d. On both sides of th_e chapel
the hill has been excavated into two
stories, corresponding with the height
of the temple, and containing the usual
halls of instruction, with cells. But
the most curious of the sculptures is a
collection of 14 dehgops, 5 of which are
inside and the others outside the cave.
On the first of the latter there is an in-
scription. The group of horses, bulls,
and elephants, on the 4 pillars _in front
of the arched cave at Beira (Birsa) re-
sembles what we find on the Indo-
Mithraic coins of the N., and is ovi-
dcnce, were no other proofs prociu-able,
that such belongs to the worship of the
sun.
“The first inscription from the Beira
cave, described as executed over the

door of a small cell, may be translated
—‘ By an ascetic of Nasika, resembling
the purified Saint (Buddha), the pri-
meval heavenly great one.’
“ The second inscription from the same
caves, said to be over a well, may be
translated—" A righteous gift of a small
offering to the moving power (body),
the intellectual principle, the cherishing
material body, the offspring of Mann,
the precious jewel, the supreme heavenly
one here.’
“The inscription on the first of the
nine dehgopas outside the cave, may
be translatcd—‘ The resting-places of
the prescrver dwelling in the elements.’
The next inscription from the Bfijah
caves is said to be over a well, and may
be translated—‘ The ri hteous gift of a
s nibol and vehicle of t e purified Saka
1 aka, the resting-place of the giver.’
The last inscription which is given is
not quite so distinct as the others. It
ma be translated—‘A gift to the ve-
hic e of Raddha (the perfect one), the
Sn ata (Buddha) eternally gone.’ "
t was at Wargéiiw thug, Ca tain
Vaughan, of the 16th Ma ras .I.,
and his brother, a cadet, were inter-
ccptcd by the Mai-fitlias after the battle
of Khirki, and, having been “driven
forward in the most insulting manner"*
to Taligaoii, were there cruelly hanged
on a tree on the Punah side of the town.
(e) Ddpari (Dapoorie).-—The name of
this place is perhaps a corruption of
Indraptir, “city of Indra,” and may
be connected with the worship of the
god at Chinohwad. It was here that
on the banks of the little river Pa-
wana, “pure stream," a tributary of
the Mala, Captain, afterwards Colonel
Ford, C.B., built a handsome residence,
and expended on it, and on the beauti-
ful gardens surrounding it, no less a
sum than 1 10,000 rupees. This oflicer had
long been the assistant of Sir Barry
Close, and was by his interest appointed
to raise and command a bri ado of
troops, disciplined after the n lish
fashion, for the Pcshwa Baji :'io.
This was in 1812, and the new levies
were cantoned at Dfipiiri till 1817,
when they marched to the aid of Col.
' Bl4lL‘ké'7"81llfl7‘d(lLG War, p. 71, ed. l82l.


326
Sect. I.
ROUTE 3.*BOMBAY T0 PllNAI{—OHINCHWA]_).
Burr’s army at the battle of Khirki, and 1 Colonel Sykes in vol. iii. Trans. Lit.
took a prominent part in the engage-
ment (vide Khirki). During his resi-
dence at Dapiiri, Major Ford was
conspicuous for his hospitality; his
house being open to all strangers, and
his table maintained in princely style.
He was also the liberal supporter of all
charities, and was beloved and respected
by the natives, as much as an European
who ever visited India. t was the
declared intention of the Peshwé. to
spare Major Ford alone of all the
Europeans, had he succeeded at the
battle of Khirki. Some time after that
victory, Major Ford, having attained
his Lt.-Colonclcy, was attacked with
fever, and died at Bombay. His beau-
tiful residence at Dapiiri was purchased
by Sir J. Malcolm for Government for
the paltry sum of 10,000 rupees. Near it
are now the Botanical Gardens. The
principal bangle. contains some fine
reception rooms ; and one, in which the
Government balls, so amusin ly described
b Lady Falkland,‘ are hel , 1s upwards
oi, 80ft. long and well proportioned.
There are besides several detached
bangles.
f) Ghinahwad (Chinchore) . From Da-
pfiri the traveller ma visit Chinchwad,
the residence of a br man, who is wor-
shipped as an incarnate od. The vil-
lage is about 5 miles . of Dapuri,
and has a picturesque appearance from
the river s1de.1- Above the handsome
ilight of stone steps which leads to the
river Mala, are many fine trees, but the
temple is low and devoid of ornament.
Lord Valentia has given an account of
his visit to this place in 1804, and Mrs.
Graham of hers on December the 19th,
1809,: when she saw the boy who was
then the Deo or god, “ not anyway distin-
guished from other children, but by an
anxious wildness of the eyes, said to be
occasioned by the quantity of opium
which he is daily made to swallow."
Lady Falkland, in 1848, visited the place,
but did not see the god, who was out on
a tour. An account of the origin of this
“ extraordinary imposturc” is given by
* Chow-chow, vol. Lp. 228.
1* mm, p. 20:
f, Journal Qf Reeirlence in India, p. 70.

Soc. of Bombay, art. iv. p. 64. About
two centuries and a half ago a poor
couple obtained the promise of a son to
soothe their declining years, from Gan-
pati, the Hindu god of wisdom. The
oy was named Moroba, in honor of
the god, this being one of his titles.
Shortly after his birth the parents
moved to Pippalgaiiw, about 4 miles
from Chinchwad, where they died; and
Morobfi. then came to Tatar close to
Chiuchwad, and spent 22 years in prayer
and ilgrimage. At the end of this
time e restored a blind girl to sight,
and Sivaji, whose career was then com-
mencing, was induced by the fame of
this miracle to seek a cure for a disorder
of his eyes from the new saint. The
cure was efl'ected, and Morobfi’s name
became widely celebrated. He then
quittcd Tatar, and took up his residence
in a jungle which then covered the
site of Chmchwad. Herc Ganpati ap-
peared to him, and promised him as 9.
reward for his piety to be incarnate
in him and his descendants for seven
generations. Various miraculous cir-
cumstances followed, such as the emerg-
ing of a sacred conical stone from the
earth close to Moroba, and ended in
his being revered as a god. After a
long career he buried himself alive in
a sitting posture, with a holy book in
his hand, and with a strict command
that his resting place should never be
disturbed. Moroba was succeeded by his
son Chintaman Deo, in attestation of
whose divinity a second conical stone
emerged from the earth. He had eight
. wives and eight sons, and was succeeded
by Narayan Deo, whose fame having
reached Delhi, the Emperor ’A'lamgir,
to test his godship, sent him as an
offering a piece of cow’s flesh wrapped
up in many cloths. On bein opened,
after N érayan had sprinkle it with
holy water, it was found changed to a
bouquet of jessamine flowers ; and’A'lam-
gir was so pleased with the miracle, that
he presented eight villages in erpetuity
to the god for his support. 0 Nara-
yan succeeded Chintaman Deo II., to
him Dharmadhar, and to him Chintf1-
man Deo III., who was followed by


Bombay.
327
noun: 3.'—BOMBAY T0 rd1un—1rnrnK'1.
Nérayan II. This last brought down
a curse upon the family by opening the
grave of Moroba, who imprecated child-
lessness upon the intruder; and, in con-
sequence, Dharmadhar, the son of N a-
rayan II., died without issue. The
brahmans, however, were determined
to keep alive the deceit, and adopted
for the god a distant relative named
Sakhari; and as long as the contribu-
tions of votaries supply the means of
giving monthly dinners to select parties,
and annual entertainments to unlimited
numbers, as is now the ease, the im-
posture will flourish.
(g) KIn'_rki.—After Da rm, the next
place worth seeing is Khir i, which may
either be visited en route to Punah or
from Pfinah. It is the station of a Eu-
ropean cavalry regiment, but the spot is
chiefly interesting as bein the scene of
a splendid victory over aji Rao, the
last Pcshwa. On the 1st of November,
1817, the dispositions of that prince had
become so threatening, that Mr. Elphin-
stone, then Resident at Pfinah, deter-
mined to remove the troops from the
cantonment of that place to Khirki,
where, on the 5th, they took up a good
position to the east of an eminence, on
which stands the village of Khirki, and
where the stores and ammunition were
stationed, under the rotection of the
battalion companies o the 2nd battalion
of the 6th Regiment. In the rear of the
troops was the river Mula, and from the
S. and W. advanced the masses of the
Peshwa’s army, amounting to 8,000 foot,
18,000 horse, and 14 guns,* besides a
reserve of 5,000 horse and 2,000 foot
with the Peshwa at the sacred hill of
Parbati. The cantonments at Punah
and the Residency at the Sangam, on the
site of which now stands the Judicial
Commissioner's oflice, had been plun-
dered and burnt on the 1st, as soon as
the English troops quitted them. One
regiment of Major Ford’s brigade was
at Dapfiri, and the total strength of the
English, even when that joined, was,
according to Grant Duff, but 2,800 rank
and file, of which 800 were Europeans.
Colonel Burr, a good and gallant ofiicer,
but almost disabled by paralysis, com-
‘ Grant Dufl‘, .vol. '1ii., p. 427.

manded this little army, and formed
them, with the Bombay European regi-
ment, a detachment of H. M. 65th,
the Resident’s escort, and part of the
2nd battalion of the 6th N .I., in the
centre; on the right flank, the 2nd bat-
talion of the lst N .I.; and on the left
the 1st battalion of the 7th N .I . Gokla
commanded the Peshwa’s army, and its
advance is compared by Grant Duff,
who was an e e~witness, to the rushing
tide called t e Bhor in the Gulf of
Khambayat. It swept all before it,
tram ling down the hedges, and fields of
stan ' g corn which then covered the
plain. Colonel Burr was now informed
that Major Ford was advancing with
his regiment, the Peshwa’s own, from
Dapfiri on the \V., to join him; and in
order to facilitate the junction, he moved
the main force to a position about a
mile in advance, and to the S.W. of the
village of Khirki. The Maratha leaders
had been tampering for some time with
the regiment that was moving from
Diipiiri, and they fully expected it would
come over, as it was paid by the Peshwa.
A strong body of horse, therefore, under
More Dikshat, the prime minister of the
Peshwa, advanced about 4 P.M. upon
the Dapfiri battalion, but Major Ford,
throwing back his right wing, opened a
heavy fire upon the Marathas, both of
musketry and from three small guns
commanded by Captain Thew. A good
many Marathas fell, and among them
Moro Dikshat, who was struck by a
cannon shot in the mouth. It is re-
markable that this chief, who was an
excellent man and a faithful servant
of his prince, had several times en-
deavoured to persuade Major Ford of
the hopeless nature of the contest for
the British; and, finding that officer
determined to side with his countrymen,
had asked for and obtained a promise
of protection to his family in case he
should fall, engaging to do the same for
Major Ford’s family in case the Peshwa
triumphed. It need scarcely be added
that Major Ford faithfully performed
his agreement to the children of the
gallant Marathi leader. In the mean-
time, Gokla had organised an attack
on the left flank_ of the English


3'28
Sect. I.
noun: 3.-—BOMBAY T0 Pi':ivAi1—i>i;"i~I.i1r.
main force, and this was led by a
regular battalion commanded by .a
Portu uese named De Pento; and,
after is discomfiture, a select body of
6000 horse, with the Jari Patka, or
golden pennon, flying at their head,
charged the 7th N .I. as they were
pursuing De Pent0's men. Gokla’s
horse was wounded in this charge, and
his advance was sto ped; but there
were other gallant lea ers, such as N arii
Pant Apté and Mahadeo Rae Rastia;
and it was well for the Si ahis that a
swamp in their front checke the charge
of the Marathas, whose horsemen rolled
headlong over one another in th_e deep
slough. As it was, some cut their way
through the Sipahi battalion; but,_in-
stead of turning back, when they might
have destroyed the regiment, they rode
off to plunder the village of Khirki,
whence they were repulsed by a fire of
grape. After this charge, the Marathas
drew ofl‘ with a total loss of about 500
men, while that of the English was but
86. On the 13th, General Smith's
army arrived from Sertir, and the
Peshwa, after a slight resistance, put
his army in full retreat. The most re-
markable point in the battle of Khirki
is, perhaps, the extraordinary steadiness
of Major Ford’s regiment under great
temptation. In it were upwards of 70
Marathas, yet not a man deserted on
the day of battle, though promised vast
sums to join their countrymen. After
the action, the Marathas, but only the
Maréit_has, joined the enemy, and man
of them being subsequently capture ,
their culpability, such as it was, was
very properly ignored, and they were
set free. A further proof of the fidelity
of this corps to its officers must not be
overlooked. On crossing the river from
Dapiiri it was found impossible to get
the guns to move, as the bullocks would
not draw them out of the bed of the
stream. Captain Thew,_ commanding
the guns, announced this to Captain
Lodwick, the brigade major, who im-
mediately ordered the Iight battalion to
take the drag ropes and extricate the
guns. The Sipahis, though men of the
highest caste, obeyed this order with
the utmost alacrity, much to the surprise
of the artillery oflicer, who fully ex-
pected them to mutiny. Upon the
whole, it must be admitted that the
Dapfiri regiment decided the fate of the
day. The officers with it were Major
Ford, commanding; Capt. now General
Lodwick, brigade major; Lieut. now
Colonel Sykes, adjutant; and Captain
Thew, commanding the guns.
(h) Pfmah, or Pufld (Poona).—The
first mention we have of Piinah is in
the Maratha annals of 1599 s.r>., when
the parganahs of Pfinah and Sfipa were
made over to Malaji Bhoiisle (grand-
father of Sivaji , by the Nigam Shahi
government. n 1750 it became the
Maratha capital, under Balaji Baji Rae.
In 1763 it was plundered and destroyed
by Ni_1,am ’Ali, with the Mugl_iul army
of Haidai-abad in the Dakhan. Here,
on the 25th of October, 1802, Jeswant
Rae Holkar defeated the combined armies
of the Peshwa and Sindhia, and cap-
tured all the guns, baggage, and stores
of the latter. The city stands in a
somewhat treeless plain, on the right of
the Miita river, a little before it 'oins
the Mifila. At its extreme eastern limit
is the hill of Parbati, so called from a
celebrated temple to the goddess Durga,
or Parvati. Beyond is the English
cantonment, where there are always one
or more European regiments, and several
native corps. A few miles to the E. and
N.E. are the hills, which lead up to a
still higher tableland in the direction
of Satara. The station is the principal
one under the British Government in
the Dakhan, and is justly a favorite for
its salubrity and pleasant climate; but
there is not much to be seen. In the
church is the tomb of Sir Robert
Grant, who died Governor of Bom-
bay on July the 9th, 1838. There
is an aqueduct built by one of the
Rastias, a family of great distinction
amongst the Marathas. There are
also extensive water-works constructed
by Sir J amshidji Jijibhai, which cost
upwards of £20,000. Of this sum, the
Parsi baronet contributed £17,500.
Lady Falkland* pronounces the view
of Piinah from the Safigam, or junction
of the rivers Mala and Miita, to be
* Chow-chow, vol. 1., p. 265.


Bombay.
329
nonrn 3.—BOMBAY T0 PIlNAB‘.-—PIlNAH.
“perfectly enchanting." The bridge
at the Safigam, called “W'ellesley
Bridge," was built by Major Nutt, of
the Bombay En ineers in the governor-
shi of Sir J. alcolm. It is of stone,
an cost £4,700. At the Saiigam, Hindu
widows formerly underwent cremation
with the corpses of their husbands. On
the left are several temples in a garden,
and among them a tall white one, be-
longin to the Gosains, followers of
Maha eo. When the water is low at
the Sangam, flat stones are visible with
two feet engraven on them. These
have been placed there in remembrance
of Satis. There are also some exca-
vations near the same spot, but of little
interest to those who have seen Karli.
On the right is the cit , and rising
above it is Parbati, an high above
that, and the adjacent hills, towers the
famous Siiih garh, or “Lion’s Den,”
of which hereafter. In this direction
the banks of the river are thickly
wooded, and there is a long, low, native
bridge. The city of Piinah contains
about 80,000 inhabitants. During the
flourishing times of the Pcshw-.’is it
properly contained, inclusive of troops,
twice that number. For a native town
the streets are wide, and there is little
to remind the traveller of Europe. A
European carriage is seldom seen. The
city is divided into seven quarters, named
after the days of the week. The prin-
cipal street is lon and wide, and has
“trottoirs” on eac side. As Punah is
a stronghold of brahmans, and under
the Peshwas was the ca ital of a. brah-
man dynasty, tokens 0 the prevalence
of Hinduism abound. Emaciated de-
votees, clothed in the skins of wild
animals, and fat, lazy, and mischievous
brahmani bulls parade the streets, and
are an insufferable nuisance to civilized
folk. Many rams kept for fighting, are
led about, their combats being afavorite
spectacle of the Marathas. Temples of
all shapes, painted with gods of all
forms and colors, are seen everywhere.
In many places are the former residences
of the old Maratha chiefs, some in
ruins, some turned into Government
ofiices. The huts of the poorer people
arc squalid enough; but in the general

mass there are many picturesque spots.
In the principal bazar are the remains
of the Peshwa’s castle, which in Mrs.
Graham’s time, 1809, was surrounded
by “high, thick walls, with four large
towers,”* there being but one entrance
through a high pointed arch, on each
side of which is a tower. The doors
are very large, and covered with iron
spikes. Above the gateway is a small
balcony supported on pillars. Here is
the terrace from which, on the morning
of the 25th October, 1795,-f the youn
Peshw-ii, Mahadeo Rao, threw himse ,
and died two days afterwards of the
injuries he received in the fall. On
the 22nd he had shown himself to
his troops, who passed before him
in thousands, a sea of horsemen.
It was the festival of the Dasahra,
and on this occasion that national
féte of the Marathas was conducted
with unusual splendor. In the even-
ing the young Peshwa received his
great chiefs, and the ambassadors of
oreign courts, in his accustomed man-
ner; but the restraints imposed upon
him by his minister, Nana Famavis,
had stung him to the quick, and he was
then meditating the act of sclf-destruc-
tion, which, three days after, he accom-
plished. Here, too, on the 30th of
August, 177 3, Narayan Rho, at the age
of eighteen, after he had been but
nine months Peshwa, was sava ely
murdered, by Somar Sin h and Tra iya
Powar, two of his guar . The unfor-
tunate youth had confined his uncle,
Raghunath Rao, in an apartment of the
palace, and Raghunirth had commis-
sioned tliesc two assassins to seize the
young Peshwa, and thus bring about
is own release. But the vindictive
A’nandi Biii, the wife of Raghunath,
secretly altered the word “ seize" to
“kill,” and, in obedience to the mandate,
Somar Singn forced his victim even
from his uncle’s arms, to which he had
fled for refuge, and stabbed him, killing
with the same blow a faithful servant
who had cast himself on his body.
Not far from this castle is a street in
which, under the Peshwas, offenders
* Journal p. 78.
+ Grant 151/J, vol. iii., p. 120.


330
nours 3.—nommr ro riiN.uI——r11E rinmri HILL. Sect. I.
were executed by being trampled to
death b elephants. One of the most
meniora le of these executions, 011 ac-
count of the princely rank of the suf-
ferer, was that of \Vittoji Holkar, bro-
ther of that J eswant Rao Holkar who,
the same year, won the battle of Piinah.
The last of the Peshwas, Baji Rao, be-
held the agonies of the victim from a
window of his palace, where, on the
morning of the 1st of April, 1800, he
took his seat with his favorite Bala'i
Kunjar, in order to lut his e es wit
the revolting sight. n the “ ednes-
da ” quarter of the city is another
pa ace called the Budhwar, or “ \Ved-
nesday.” Here are now public offices
and an ~English school for the natives.
This school has been amalgamated with
the Sanskrit College, which was, in
1821, established for the study of the
ancient literature of the country. In
the same quarter is the quondam resi-
dence of Nana Farnavis, a shabb man-
sion with a small court- ard an foun-
tain, and many small ark rooms and
dingy passages. On the outskirts of
the town is a very large Jain temple
with Chinese-looking ornaments. “ In
a small room,* with a ceiling, walls, and
pillars painted red and green, and all
the quaint ornaments carved and painted
the same color, there is a small square
cage with bars in which are two marble
elephants, and on each side a little white
marble goat.”
T/ze Prirbaii Hz'Zl.—But the most
beautiful spot in the neighbourhood of
Pfinah is the Hira Bag, “ Diamond
Garden,” and the hill of Parbati. The
drive to the foot of the hill is very pretty,
leading past the Hira Bagh, where is a
fine tank, in the centre of which is an
island with trees. Near the tank is a
pavilion of the Peshwas, in which are
several rooms with colored ceilings that
have a good effect. A narrow staircase
leads to a platform with two verandahs,
mentioned by Lord Valentia in his
notice of a visit to the Peshwa in 1804.
Near the tank is also a handsome
mosque and many temples built by
Gosaifis. On leaving the tank, Parbati
* Lady Falkland’: Chow-chow, vol. i., D. 276.

Hill, crowned with temples, is directly
in front. The ascent is by a long flight
of handsome steps. The largest temple
is dedicated to Shiva, and in it is a silver
image ofthe god, with two images, said
to be of gold, representing Parvati and
Ganesh, seated on Shiva’s knees. This
temple cost £100,000, and was erected
by Balajf Bajf Rao in 1749, by whom
most of the other six temples also were
built. During the Diwali this temple
is lit up in a beautiful manner. Lamps
are placed up the sides of the structure,
and the effect is most strikingl pic-
turesque. Here is also the ruin 0 a pa-
lace built by the last Peshwa Baji Rao.
Siugularly enough, it was struck by
lightning in the ear 1817, the year
of his overthrow the British, and
totally destro ed. o the N.W. is a
picturesque oorish-looking window,
whence, it is said, the last Peshwa
watched the defeat of his troops at
Khirki. The views from this spot are
most beautiful, particularly that on
the W. which overlooks the city, its
bridges, rivers, meadows and groves.
At the foot of the hill is a square field,
which, in the time of the Peshwés, was
enclosed by high brick walls. Here, at
the end of the rains, about the time of
the Dasahra, alms in money were pre-
sented to all brahrnan comers. In
order to prevent the holy men from
receiving more than their share, they
were passed into this enclosure, at the
gate of which stood a vast cauldron,
lled with a red pigment. Each man,
as he entered, was marked with this,
and nothing was given till all had gone
in. They were then lct out one by one,
and three, four, or five rupees were
given to each. On one occasion the
Peshwa is said to have lavished away
£60,000 in this manner.
The C¢mt0nment.—After leaving the
Sarigam, the road passes the travellers’
bangle, which is on the left, and throws
elf a branch road to the left, which
leads to the river side, and the dam
constructed by Sir J. Jijibhai. The
main road passes, on the left, the Col-
lector’s Kaaheri, and treasury. The
next buildin is the Lunatic Asylum
and Hospita ; next to which is the


Bombay.
331
nourn 3.—BonBAY T0 riizvsn-—s11'vrreA1_m.
hotel. Shortly after this is passed, on
the left, Sir J. Ji'ibhai’s house, sur-
rounded by a beautiful garden and hi h
wall, and close to this, on the right, t e
Parsi Fire-temple. Here two roads
diverge, of which that to the left leads
to the Gymnasium or Jim Kizdnah, as it
is st led by the natives. Here a large
buil ing is annually erected, in which
cricket dinners, etc. are given. The
banlglé adjoining is that in which Lord
F. itzclarence lived. The other road
goes straight on to the Magazine, and
then diverges right and left. That to
the_1'ight leads to the church, close to
which are the reading room and library,
and then asses close to the fine new
European arracks, and then on to the
band-stand, where all the fashionables
congregate in the evening. Close to
the band-stand is the old race-course,
and, to the ri ht of it, the artillery
barracks. Ont e opposite side of the
old race-course, about a mile ofl‘, is the
place where one of H.M. regiments is
ocated, called Gorpzira. The new race-
course lies between these two places.
_Bambz2ra.—-Before leaving Punah it
will be well to visit the little village of
Bamblira, where, in former times, an
enormous gun was fired every evening
as a Maratha curfew to warn honest
folk to keep within their houses. On
one occasion several Brahmans, disre-
garding this warning, remained out till
late, and were locked up by the police,
at which the people were so enraged
that they insisted on the superintendent
of police being given up to them, and
stoned him to death, though he had not
even been informed of the circumstance
that his satellites had arrested the holy
men.
The traveller ma
time to halt at finah for a few
days, visit the forts of Ohtkan and
Sinhgarh, which are within an easy
ride or drive.
C’Iza’kan.-—Thcre is a ood cleared
road to Chakan, which is t us described
by Grant Duff, vol. i. p. 61 : “Chakan
is a small fort 18 m. N. of Pfinah. It
is nearly square, with towers at the
angles and centres of the faces. It has
a good ditch about 30 ft. wide, and 15
also, if he has

deep, but wet on the N. side only. The
walls are high, the parapet and ram art
narrow, and the towers confined. T ere
is but one entrance into the body of the
place, through five or six gateways; and
there is a mud outwork, which also has
a ditch. I mention it particularly on
account of its re uted antiquity; for,
although it probab y is the first built by
Maliku’t-tu jar, yet, according to concur-
ring Hindu egends, itwas constructed by
an Abyssinian Palegar in A.D. 1295. As
to how he got there they do not pretend
to account.” This fort was given to
Malaji Bhonslé, andfather of Sivaji,
in 1604, by the igam Shahi king of
Ahmadnagar. In 1662 it surrendered
after a sie e of two months, in which
Shfiistah _han, Aurangz'ib's general,
lost 900 men; but it was restored to
Sivaji a few years afterwards. In 1671
it was taken again by Diler Eran, with
less difficulty. In 1818 it was easily
captured by the British. Over the gates
are three inscriptions, announcing the
successes of the Muguls. There are
also two guns inscribed with Maratha
characters.
Shihyayh. — This is a place very
famous in Maratha annals, and ve
interesting on account of scenery as we
as historic recollections. It is distant
from Pfinah 11 miles S.W., and is thus
described by Grant Duff, where he speaks
of its astonishing capture b the re-
nowned Té.na'i Mélusré, in ebruary,
1670 :-—“ Sin garh is situated on the
E. side of the great Sahyadri range,
near the point at which the Pfirandhar
hills branch ofi' into the Dakhan. \Vith
these hills it only communicates, on the
E. and W., by very hi h narrow ridges,
while, on the S. and ll, it presents a
hu e rugged mountain, with an ascent
of dmlf a mile, in many parts nearly
perpendicular. After arriving at this
height, there is an immense craggy
precipice of black rock, upwards of 40ft.
high, and sunnounting the whole there
is a strong stone wall with towers. The
fort is of a triangular shape, its interior
upwards of two miles in circumference,
and the exterior presents, on all sides,
the stupendous barrier already men-
tioned; so that, except by the gates,


332
Sect. I.
noorn 3.—BoMrs.iY TO rii1v.irr—sr1'vnesnn.
entrance seems impossible. From the
summit, when the atmosphere is clear,
is seen to the E. the narrow and beau-
tiful valley of the Nira; to the N. a
great plain, in the forepart of which,
Pfinah, where Sivajf passed his youth,
is a conspicuous object. To the S. and
W. appear boundless masses of moun-
tains, lost in the blue clouds, or mingled
by distance with the sky. In that
uarter lies Raigarh, from which place,
irected by Tanaji Malusré, the thou-
sand Mawalis, prepared for the attempt
on Sinhgarh, set out by difl'erent paths,
known only to themselves, which led
them to unite near the fortress, accord-
ing to the words of the Maratha M.S.,
‘on the 9th night of the dark half of
the moon, in the month Magh.’ Tanaji
divided his men; one half remained at
a little distance, with orders to advance
if necessary, and the other half lodged
themselves undiscovered at the foot of
the rock. Choosing a part most difli-
cult of access, as being the least liable to
discove , one of their number mounted
the roe , and made fast a ladder of
ropes, by which they ascended, one by
one, and lay down as they gained the
inside. Scarce 300 had entered the fort,
when something occasioned an alarm
among the garrison that attracted their
attention to the quarter by which the
Mawalis were ascending. A man ad-
vanced to ascertain what was the matter.
A deadly arrow from a bowman silently
answered his inquiries; but a noise of
voices and a running to arms induced
Tanaji to push forward in hopes of still
surprising them. The bowmen plied
their arrows in the direction of the
voices, till a blaze of blue lights, and a
number of torches kindled by the garri-
son, shewed the Rajpfits armed or arm-
ing, and discovered their assailants. A
desperate conflict ensued ; the Mawalis,
though thus prematurely discovered, and
opposed by very superior numbers, were
gaming ground, when Tana'i Malusré
ell. ' hey then lost eonfi enee, and
were runnin to the place where they
had escalade , but by that time the re-
serve, led b Tanajfs brother, Suryaji,
had entered. On learnin what had
happened, Suryaji rallied t e fugitives,

asked ‘who amongst them would leave
their father’s (eommandefs) remains to
be tossed into a pit by Mahars P’ told
them the ropes were destroyed, and now
was the time to rove themselves
Sivajfs Mawalis. his address, the
loss of Tana'i, the arrival of their com-
panions, an the presence of a leader,
made them turn with a resolution which
nothing could withstand. ‘Har! Har!
Maha Deo 1’ their usual cry on des-
perate onsets, rcsonnded, as they closed,
and they soon found themselves in pos-
session of the fort. Their total loss was
estimated at one-third their number, or
upwards of 300 killed or disabled. In
the mornin 600 gallant Réfputs, to-
gether wit their eornman er, were
found dead or wounded; a few had con-
cealed themselves, and submitted; but
several hundreds had chosen the des-
perate alternative of venturing over the
rock, and many were dashed to pieces
in the attempt. The preconcerted signal
of success was setting on fire a thatched
house in the fort, a joyful intimation to
Sivaji; but when he heard that Tanaji
Malusré was killed, he was deeply con-
cerned, and afterwards, on being eon-
gratulated, mournfully replied, in allu-
sion to the name he had given the fort,‘
‘ The den is taken, but the lion is slain;
we have gained a fort, but, alas! I have
lost Tauaji Malusré!’ Sivaji, though
he seldom bestowed pecuniary gifts on
the Mawalis, on this occasion gave
every private soldier a silver bracelet,
or ban le, and proportionate rewards
to theo cers." The surprising character
of the night esealade above recorded
will be appreciated by those who now
ascend peaeefull in their pfilkis, and in
the daytime. he ascent is in part
almost perpendicular; and one is aston-
ished that the palkf bearers never slip
back and roll down into the plain. In
1665 Sivaji had surrendered Sirihgarh to
Aurangzib, but retook it, as described,
in 1670. In 1701 Aurangzib recovered
it; but Shankarji N arayan Sachiva
again captured it in 1705. On the lst
of March, 1818, it was taken by the
' It was originally called Kondanah, but
Sivajl himself changed its name to Slnhgarh.
See Grant Daw’, vol. i., n. 134. '


Bombay.
333
ROUTE 3.—BOMBA.Y T0 Pl'JNAH—W.dl§.
English, without loss. Thc garrison,
1,100 men, of whom 400 were Arabs,
capitulated, afterbeing shelled for three
days, in which time 1,400 shells and
upwards of 2,000 shot were fired into
the place. Lady Falklancl* notices the
splendid balsam trees which completely
cover _the sides of the path that leads up
to the fort, and are many of them nearly
10 ft. high. In the old ruined gateways
hang festoons of leaves and flowers
almost touching the traveller's head as
he enters. Being 4,162 ft. above the
sea, Siiihgarh is a delightful retreat for
Europeans from the heat of the plains.
The air is cool, and the views beautiful.
Here, for some time,- was confined, in
a wooden cage, the brahman Babji Pant
Gokla, the murderer of the Vaughans.
The road from Punah to Sfrwal has
been lately cleared, an operation of
which it stood greatly in need ; for, even
in a pélki, the fatigue of travelling over
it was considerable. The village of
Sirwal is prettily situated on the Nira
river, and the bangla is a very 00d one.
This place formerly belon e to the
Pant Sachiva, a Maratha c ief of high
rank. The Kamakshi Ghat is steep
and slippery, and paved in some places.
The natives’ have a superstition against
crossing it at night; and, in fact, wild
beasts are not unfrequent intruders upon
it.
(i) Wdi (Wye).—This is one of the
mostbeautiful rustic towns in the Dakhan.
Lady Falkland says of it, with justice :1~
“I know nowhere a more lovely spot
than \Vai, and, although I often visited
it during my stay in fndia, I saw new
beauties every time. Here there is
grand scenery, as well as pleasing, quiet
spots, and charmin bits. The view
from the traveller’s angla is perfectly
beautiful. Behind the city rise hills of
all the shapes which are peculiar to the
mountains in the Dakhan. There are
round, peaked, fiat-topped hills; some
covered with rocks, looking, at a dis-
tance, like forts and castles. One hill,
near the city, rises very abruptly, and
has a hill-fort on the top. It is called
Pfiiidugar .” Wai is situated on the

left bank of the Krishna, which is lined
with beautiful pippal and mango trees,
and with handsome flights of stone steps,
ornamented with graceful fi ures of
lovely brahman women, for w ich this
place is renowned. The traveller's
bangla is on the opposite side of the
river, on that nearest to the Maha-
baleshwar Hills. The nearest temple
to it, and the river is lined with beau-
tiful temples, is dedicated to Ganpati;
the next to Mahadeo ; and one at some
distance, to Lakshmi. These were built
about 80 years ago, by the father of
Bale. Sahib Rastia, of whom Lady
Falkland speaks.* They are exceed-
ingly elegant, and form the great beauty
of this most picturesque spot. The
mandap or canopy in front of Mahadeo’s
temple is very light, and a fine specimen
of carving in stone. The roof, as also
that of Gar_ipati’s temple, is like a pave-
ment reversed. Stones cut into three
cubes are joined at the corners, and are
then so locked that each locks into six
others. When the roof is finished, the
support, which is generall of earth,
is du out from the inside o the tem le,
and om below only the flat un er-
surface of the lowest cube is seen. The
fortune of the Rfvstias was much im-
paired by the expenses incurred in erect-
ing these temples, and by their munifi-
cence to the brahmans. To avoid the
imputation of abandoning a generosity
which they are no longer able to sustain,
they have discontinued their custom of
visiting Wai, except at very great inter-
vals. They have an excellent mansion
at no reat distance from the town,
called t e Moti Béi@, or “Pearl ar-
den.” The road thither is beaut' ully
shaded by s lendid bambfis, mangos,
and tamarin s. The house was built
nearly a century ago, and is a good
s ecimcn of the Muhammadan style.
t is open on one side from top to
bottom, and shaded by huge curtains.
The decorations are still fresh, but one
of the mirrors has been broken by a
monkey which got in, “and imagined
he beheld an o poneiit in the reflection
of himself.” n the garden are foun-
tains with curious primitive works,
* Chlow-chow, vol. 1., ‘P, 808.
T I bui, D. 188.
' Chow-chow, p. 209.


334
Sect. I.
BOUTE 3.—THE MAHABALESHWAB HILLS.
which are now seldom used. Bala
Sahib commanded the Pcshwa’s horse
at the siege of Shri Rang Patanam
(Seringapatam). At Wai 15 also" the
villa of the widow of Nana Farnavis.
Lady Falkland* describes her as very
old, but ossessing the traces of great
beauty. Vhen Lord Valentia saw her
in 1804, at Panwel, she was “a ver
retty girl-—fair, round-faced, wit
beautiful eyes, and apparently seven-
teen years of age.”-i" he possesses a
ortrait of Mahadeo Rao Peshwit, and of
is famous minister N ana Farnavis, and
several letters from the Duke of \Vel-
lington, who, in 1804, obtained for her
leave to settle where she chose in the
Peshwsfs dominions, with an annual
pension of 14,009 rupees. A life of the
Nana, writtpnb himself, and full of ex-
traordinary mci ents, was, at the request
of Colonel Lodwiek, given by this lady
to an ofiicial at Satara, and is now in
the hands of General Briggs.
Dom.-—Abont 5 m. from Wei is the
village of Dom, where is a ver hand-
some temple, in the middle of t e court
of which is a gigantic basin of white
marble, the edges carved with lotus
leaves. There is also a pillar about 5ft.
high, on the top of which are the five
heads of Shiva, with cobras twisting
round them, all in white marble.
The Bum/an-tree of Wairdtga_rk.—
But the most curious thing to be seen
near Wei is a gi antic tree, at the foot
of a mountain, cal ed Wairatgarh, about
8 m. from Wai. The exact area shaded
by it is three-quarters of an acre. The
space covered 1s a very symmetrical oval.
There is no brushwood underneath, nor
aught to impede the view save the stems
of the shoots from the parent tree. Lady
Falkland sa s, “ The shade was so com-
lete, I cou d sit in the middle of the
ay without an covering on my head.
The tree was o such a sizc, that sepa-
rate picnie (parties might take place
under it, an not interfere with each
other. There were countless avenues
or rather aisles, like those of a church,
the pale grey stems being the columns,
which, as the sun fell on them, glistened
' Vol. i., p. 203.
1' V01/ages and Travels, p. 173.

in parts like silver; and here and there
were little recesses like chapels, where
the roots from the boughs formed them-
selves into delicate clustering pillars, up
and down which little squirrels were
chasing each other, while large monkeys
were 'umping from bough to bough, the
branc es cracking and creaking as if
both they and the monkeys would fall
on my head." Wai is a spot much
famed in Hindu legend. Here, accord-
ing to old tradition, the Péuidus spent
part of their banishment, and performed
many wonderful works. On this ae-
count, as because of its proximity to
the Krishna river so near its source,
\Vai is viewed as a place of great
sanctity; and there is a college of
brahmans established at it, once in
much repute. The road from ‘Vii to
Mahabaleshwar has lately been cleared
and improved. The Tai Ghat, so far
from being, as before, so rough and slip-
pery as to be perfectly dangerous, may
now be driven down or up the whole
way. The distance from the top of the
Ghat to Malcolm Penth is nearly ten
miles.
(k) Makdbaleshwar Ht'Zls.—HoteZs.--
On reaching the Hills, the traveller
may either roceed to the.house of a
friend, or to t e Sanatarium, where he can
engage rooms beforehand. There is also
a fair hotel near the church and library
that can be recommended to Euro cans.
Some ofiicers live in tents, whie can
be hired on the spot, and, thatched
over, are very comfortable ; but this, to
the mere pleasure tourist, would involve
greater expense, and be less convenient
than a house. Having located himself,
he ma study the following descri tion
of the llills, with a view to his guid)ance
during his residence there. The table-
land on which stands the village of
Mahabaleshwar is a very elevated por-
tion of the great western range of Ghats,
forming some of the highest ground, it
is believed, between the Nil ' 's and
the I-Iimélayah mountains. T evillage
lies in lat. 17° 59’ N. and long. 73° 30'
E., and is about 40 miles distant from
the western sea coast. Mahabaleshwar
is placed in rather a remote corner of
the tablcland, at a distance of more


Bombay.
335
ROUTE 3.-—THE MAHABALESHWAR HILLS.
than 3 miles from the station to which
it originally gave name, and from Mal-
colm Pexith, the flourishing village
which has now with more propriety
succeeded to the distinction of head
quarters. Immediatel on the E. of
the station rises a roc y plateau to the
height of about 200 ft ; and this, which
is the highest point of the range, has
been found by careful and repeated
measurements to be upwards of 4,700 ft.
above the level of the sea. The table-
land, though in most parts of no great
breadth, is yet of very considerable ex-
tent. Takin Malcolm Penth as a cen-
tre, it stretc es with little apparent
declination about 15 miles E. towards
Wei; another branch extends about 7
miles S. E., in the direction of same;
westward, to the top of the Ghat, lead-
ing to the Koilkan, is a distance of 2
miles, and to the N.N.W. the level is
prolon ed for nearly 6 miles by the
magni cent promontory of Elphinstonc
point. Such are the wide-s read out-
ines of this elevated tract 0 country:
its lesser features will be better traced
when we come to speak of the numerous
roads which are rapidly branching in
all directions over its whole extent.
The soil -of this tract is ‘generally
rather scanty, and composed o red iron
clay and sand, with a small proportion
of vegetable matter; but in many parts
a more productive brown mould is
met with, of ver considerable depth,
and every way a apted to agricultural
urposes. A large extent of surface,
however, is occupied by tabular and
detached masses of black rock, the in-
durated iron clay, or laterite of some
geologists, which here overlies the ba-
salt and other members of the secondary
trap family, that prevail throughout
the adjacent country. This rock 1s ex-
tremely cellular, an before exposure to
the action of the atmosphere, of a soft
consistence, and of a yellowish red
tint. Under exposure, it gradually
darkens in color, hardens and proves
a very durable material for build-
ing, a purpose for which the ease with
which the stone is wrought, in its original
soft state, renders it peculiarly well fitted.
In some situations it is found nearly

white, a clay stone without perceptible
admixture of iron, while in others the
metal is so prepondcrant as to constitute
an ore sufficiently rich to be smelted by
the rude process of the natives, and yields
a considerable return. The geographical
position of the Western Range secures
to it a redundant supply of moisture
during the S.\V. monsoon, and has
rendered it a fruitful parent of the rivers
that fertilize the peninsula. To the site
of the templeof Maha Deo, at Mahaba-
leshwar, brahmans assign the honor of
giving birth to the Krish1_1a* and four
other streams of less note, besides a
fabulous periodical visitant. Of this
numerous pro eny, the five that come
within the sp ere of profane eyes are
the Krishna, the Koina, and the Yenfi,
which take their course to the Dakhan,
and the Sawitri and Giiwitri, which,
falling down the western face of the
Ghat, unite with other neighbouring
streams to form the river, at the mouth
of which stands Bankot, or Fort Vic-
toria. Of the two minor rivers run-
ning to the Dakhan, one is lost in the
Krishna at Maoli, near same, and the
other at Karar, 60 miles to the S.
The real sources and feeders of these
rivers are of course to be sought in the
numerous ravines and rocky dells that
intersect the tableland in various direc-
tions, and in most of which are found,
at all seasons, a streamlet of the purest
water, pursuing its devious way through
the huge rugged blocks that obstruct its
passage. In this way a supply of excel-
lent water is everywhere procurable,
within an easy distance, thou h none
meets the eye 111 the landscape, ut that
of the Yena, which, in its gentle wind-
ing course towards its final fall into the
Dakhan, forms man picturesque little
cascades and pools, s iited by their na-
tive willows.
Although the axe of the charcoal
burner has in some places barcd
the hills of wood, Mahabaleshwar is
well covered with trees. By far the
most common tree is the Jdmbitl, the
1' The Krishna is considered as the Deity
Krishnah in a female form, and ls often spoken
of as Krishna Bar, " the Lady Krishna."


336
Sect. I.
ROUTE 3.—THE MAHABALESHWAR KILLS.
Eugenia Jambos of botanists. Its lux-
uriant foliage is of a dazzling green,
and in its form and distribution it is
cqually'picturesque. The willow is
identical with that of Europe and
abounds by the side of the numerous
rivulets. Among flowering shrubs, of
which there is a great profusion, the
most remarkable is the Aiijuni, or iron-
wood, the lllemecg/lon tinctorium, with
beautiful pur le flowers clustering round
the smaller ranches. There are also
several species of jasmin. The fern
and arrow-root plants cover the face of
the ground during the greater part of
the year. Several individuals of the
fern tribe grow here with great luxuri-
ance; but are rivaled in vigor of growth
by a flag-leafed plant, a species of Our-
cuma, from the root of which an ex-
cellent arrow-root is prepared. During
the rains the broad green leaves of this
plant, interspersed with its tall flowering
stems, bearing white, pink, or yellow
blossoms, completely overspread the
surface of the earth. The ferns next
predominate, and soon after a crotolaria
resembling the yellow broom, but ex-
celling it in the size and beauty of its
flowers, becomes conspicuous. After
their decline, various parasitieal plants
begin to develop their delicate blossoms
in singular profusion, and at the same
time'a multitude of bulbous-rooted
flowers spring up and prolong the series.
The annual mean temperature of the
station is 65$ Fahrenheit, than which
no temperature is more suited to the
development and preservation of the
human frame, or its restoration to
health. For nine months, from June
to February inclusive, so equable is the
climate, that the mean heat of any
month does not differ 4°, and for more
than half the time not 2° from the
annual mean; whilst the mean of the
hottest month only exceeds it by 7?.
The average daily range of the ther-
mometer, in the open air, throughout
the year, is only 8°; and in a house but
4° or 5°. The extreme limits of the
thermometrieal range in the open air
are 87° and 45°. The season for visiting
the Hills opens in the beginnin of
October; the period at which, o all

others, the transition from the low
country can be made with the greatest
advantage to the convalescent. The
atmosphere is at this time still very
moist, but clear and.fair in general
during the day, with frequent gentle
showers falling in the evenings. By
these, and the prevailing light E. winds,
the air is delightfully cooled, the mean
temperature ranging below 66°, with a
daily variation of only 7° in the open
air. Yet the difference of temperature
which the new-comer experiences be-
tween the hill and low country,
though equal to 20° at noon-day, is
even less striking than the change from
the sultry closeness below to the in-
vigorating elastic freshness of the moun-
tain air. November brings a drier and
colder climate, a more uniformly clear
sk , and stronger E. winds, and the
co d season extends from the middle of
this month to the end of February.
During this period, the weather is almost
always clear, serene and fair, with gentle
winds, chiefly from the E. ; but, as the
season advances, increasingly from the
W. and N .W., constituting a faint sea.
breeze. The mean temperature averages
62$‘, and the greatest cold in the
open air is about 45°. Throughout
the day the temperature is mild and
genial, with somewhat of an autum-
nal sharpness in the nights and
mornings. Hoar frost may occasion-
ally be seen in situations favorable
to its production. But the stillness of
the weather, and the nights especially,
of this season is very favorable to the
preservation of a comfortable tempera-
ture within doors, even without fires,
the thermometer so placcd ranging be-
tween 58° and 66°. A fire-place will
always be found, however, a desirable
adjunct to houses at the hills. The
warm season commences with March,
and lasts till the beginning of June.
Its mean tem erature may e taken at
71°, with a aily range of 9°. The
mean of the hottest month is less than
73°, and at the hottest time of day but
76°. Any transient feeling of heat is
soon relieved by the strong sea breeze,
which now sets in daily, and blows
fresh, cool and moist, from the N.W.,


Bomba._i/.
337
ROUTE 3.—-THE MAHAIBALESHWAB HILLS.
increasing in strength with the heat of
the season. From the end of April
squalls and thunder-storms are not un-
usual; and in May the atmosphere be-
comes moister, and clouds and mist hang
over the hills in the nights and morn-
ings. In the be 'nning of June the mon-
soon sets steadi y in, and to this period
visitors may, in general, prolong their
sta . Whi e the S.W. monsoon pre-
v ' s, fog and heavy rain envelope this
exposed face of the mountains; but to
the E. the table-land en'oys a less
trying climate. The winds are high
and stormy in the early part of the sea-
son, but adually abate as the rains
cease ; an in September the sky begins
to clear, and calms and variable winds,
with passing showers, usher in a ain
the desirable weather of October. he
range of the thermometer during the
rains does not exceed 2}” in the open air,
day and night; and the mean tem era-
ture is about 63?. The total fall o rain
is from 200 to 220in. The elevation and
geographical position of this table-land,
which bestow on it so deli htful a cli-
mate, place it also beyond t e sphere of
malaria. The station, accordin ly, is
entirely free from endemical fisease,
even during the excessive and continued
moisture of the rainy season, nor are
fevers known on its cessation, or at any
other period. No case of cholera has
ever occurred.
The discoverer and first visitor of the
Mahabaleshwar Hills, for change of cli-
mate, was Lt.-Col., now General, P.
Lodwick, who, being stationed with his
regiment at sacara during the hot sea-
son of 1824, determined on exploring
these mountains. He was the very first
European who ever set foot on the now
celebrated promontor of Sidney Point,
and after him it shou d, in justice, have
been named. He made his way, with a
walking-stick in his hand, through the
dense and tigerish jungle, to the edge of
that grand precipice, without any en-
counter with the wild beasts that then
infested the place in numbers; but a day
or two after his dog, when close to him,
was carried ofi‘ by a tiger, To him also
belongs the merit of first bringing the
subject before the public through the
medium of the newspapers. He was
followed by Colonel, now General,
Briggs, Resident of smart, who in
1826 built a cottag_e, and prevailed on
the Raja to construct an excellent car-
riage road from his capital to the
resent station. Little further was
one, till Sir J. Malcolm, Governor of
Bomba , zealously took up the matter,
establislied an experiments convalescent
hospital for European soldiers, and by
his personal residence at the Hills in the
hot season of 1828, attracted a crowd
of visitors. In the same season, Colonel
Robertson, the successor of Colonel
Bri s, built a house at the station.
In ovember, 1828, Sir J. Malcolm
returned to the Hills, bringing with
him Dr. Williamson, specially appointed
to the duty of reporting on the climate,
and the fitness of the locality for a
sanatarium, who died not long after-
wards. Sites were now selected for
some public buildings; the Governor’s
residence on Mount Charlotte, called
after Lady Malcolm, was commenced;
and a proclamation was soon afterwards
issued by the Rsjs of same, inviting
settlers to his newly-founded village of
Malcolm Pewith, or “Malcolm-ville."
His Highness also undertook to con-
tinue the high road onward over the
hill and down the Rartoii(_lya* or Ro-
tunda Ghat to the boundary of the Bri-
tish territory in the Konkan, from which
point the English Government agreed
to construct a similar road down the
Part Ghat, through Mahfir to Das-
gaoii, the most convenient harbor on
the Bankot river. These works were
completed in 1830. Next season Péirsi
shopkeepers made their appearance, and
Government employed a number of
Chinese convicts in cultivating an ex-
tensive garden, whence supplies of the
finest vegetables, especially potatoes,
were speedily drawn. These convicts,
about 12 in number, came from the
' The orthography of this word ls uncertain.
It may perhaps. be an English word, but no
dependence whatever can be placed on An-
glican spelling of Indian words. If alllaratha
word, it m be used with reference to the
stee _ness o the ascent. as we might su in
Eng ish, “ Whimper hill."
1' Pdr signifies “limit ;" also " beignd."


338 nourn 3.—uAmin.u.EsnwAn HILLS-—PB1NCIPAL enirs. Sect. I.
English settlements to the E., and after
working out their time in chains, re-
mained at the place, married and im-
proved their condition, with the ro-
verbial frugality and industry of t eir
race. A public subscription was now
raised to make bridle roads to the most
picturesque points, and in a few years
the station reached the flourishing eon-
dition which is now to be described.
Principal GIm’_I.9.—The roads from the
low countrv are tl1l'6(%lSl£, that from
\Vai, alread in part described, leading
up the Tai hat, and entering the Hills
from the E.; 2nd, that in the directly
opposite quarter leading from Bomba
up the Par Ghat on the W.; and 3r ,
the sums road from the S.E., which
ascends the Knrrilshi Ghat. The road
from Wai, after surmonnting the Tai
Gliiit, enters a valley formed y heights
of very varied form, among which the
most remarkable are the striking, crowned
summit of Mount Olympia on the right
hand, and the bold rocky promonto
of Kate’s Point, with its natural tunne ,
on the left. Both these heights are
named from Sir J. M aleolm’s daughters.
Kate’s Point commands a magnificent
view of the valley of VVai, and is about 8
miles from Malcolm Penth. Thetraveller
now comes to a high ridge, and crossing
that, enters a hollow, the scenery of
which is very attractive. His road
passes for some distance by the side of
the Yena, and, crossing that river, enters
Amelia Vale, called from another daugh-
ter of Sir J. Malcolm. The Falls of the
Yené are situate in the valley of that
name, on the left of the road from
the Tar Ghat, and are reached by a by-
path from a point on the same road
into the station. The stream is here
precipitated over the face of a steep
cliff with a sheer descent of 500 ft., un-
broken when the torrent is swollen by
rain, but ordinarily divided by projecting
rocks about one-third of the way down,
and scattered below into thin white
streaks and spray, which are often
circled by rainbows from the oblique
rays of the sun. The headlong rush
and roar of the falling river; the many
other streams lining with silver the
-fcop dark sides of the chasm, as they

hasten to join the foaming torrent,
which far below is dashing on throu h
masses of rock; the grandeur of t e
scenery, now wreathed in floating
mists, now bright in sunshine—com-
bine to form a scene of the most absorb-
ing beauty. From this oint the road
winds alon the top of t e clilf, crosses
the river Enow flowing through over-
hanging woods and rocks) above the
waterfall, ascends to a sweetly-situated
village on the opposite bank, where the
dog-rose is found owing wild, and
enters a closely-woo ed avenue, skirted
liy a most picturesque forest dingle.
hence it opens on smooth green
meadows and luxuriant willows, through
which the Yena is a in seen sluggishly
winding. The who e distance from the
top of the Tiri Ghats to Malcolm Penth
is about 9 miles. On the right of the
road, and on the way to Elphinstone
Point, is the ancient village of Maha-
baleshwar. It is a small place, but of
great sanctity in the eyes of the Hindus
as being the spot where the Krishna
and four other rivers have their source.
There are several temples, one very old,
of black stone, said to have been built
by a Gawli Rajai‘ Another, built by
the same chief, and called Koteshwar,
commands a grand view over the Whi
valle . The principal temple, however,
is ca ed Mahfibaleshwar. This stands
close under a hill, where there is the
stone image of a cow, from whose
mouth the five rivers are said to spring.
These rivers fill a tank, round which is
a raised walk, and near it are several
recesses, where various saints, famous in
Hindu legends, are supposed to have
their retreat. N o European is allowed
to enter this holy lace. At the temple
they show a be , which the priests
assert is visited by the god Kr-rshnnh
every night. At a certain hour they ring
a bell, and then the deity, though in-
visible to mortal eye, enters the bed and
rests till morning. The wretched garni-
ture and stifling atmosphere of the room,
however, dispel all classic recollections,
and prevent any comparisons with the
* The Gawlts are herdsmen, and are thought
by spgne to bfi nip alporigliinriil rilrfirii. Afiraawonng
o em wi e oun lkl '
Chow-chow, vol. 1., n. 154. n y ud '


Bombay.
339
ROUTE 3.—ELPHIi\'STONE POIN’.l‘—'1‘HE STATION.
superstitions of old Babylon recorded
by Herodotus. The Hindu le end about
the place is related by Lady alkland,*
and is simpl that two demons, named
Antebali an Mahabali, were destroyed
here by Mahadeo, and the younger,
Mflhilbflll, obtained, as his dying request,
that rivers should spring from the bodies
of the slain. Three of these temples
were rebuilt, about a century ago, by
Parshuram N §.I‘ii.y8.l_1 Angal, a wealthy
banker of Satéra. The sixth temple,
called Kudreshwar, was built about 75
years ago by A’hilya Bar, Rani of Indfir.
Elphinetone .Point.——Another of the
sights of the Hills, situated to the E., is
Elphinstone Point, the grandest of all
the precipitous sca s which front the low
country. This is a out 6 m. to the E. of
the Wei road. There is a sheer descent of
above 2000 ft., though not so steep at the
summit but that wild bison have been
seen to gallop down some part. A rock
rolled from the top thunders down and
crashes into the forests below with a noise
and commotion which is really grand to
witness, and it is a common amusement
of visitors to throw over huge masses.
The view extends to the mountains,
among which is the hill-fort of Toma,
over an apparently uninhabited jungle.
To the right of the Point is “ Arthur-'s
Seat,” another fine view which must by
no means be omitted. The distance
from Malcolm Penth is about 10 miles.
The Station.—The Satara road leads
from S.E. to N.W. directly through
the Station. From the top of the
Kurfilshi Ghat there is a fine view as
far as same, the hill-fort of which
closes the vista at the distance of some
20 miles. Hence the road commands
successively the valleys of the Koina and
of the Yena, and, crosses the central
ridge under a remarkable flat-topped
height, named by Sir J . Malcolm, Mount
Minn , which looks like a great battery
place to obstruct the passage. As the
station is entered, Mount Charlotte, the
highest point, lies to the left; and also
Bohemia, where Mr. \V. Newnham was
the first to build a residence. Below
Bohemia, in a dell, is the Chinese
garden; and, more to the left, a pro-
* Ghow—chow, vol, i., p. 162.

found and precipitous valley, overlooked
by what is calle Babington’sPoint. Pro-
ceeding along the central road of the
station, the monument to Sir Sidney
Beckwith, who died here Commander-
in-Chief in 1830, is passed on the left.
It is a plain obelisk, and was erected by
the public subscription of about 3,000
rupees. The subscribers put up an in-
scription, which not thoroughly satis-
fyin Lady Beckwith, she sent out
anot er on a marble tablet. Such,
however, is the action of the weather
on marble in India that this latter in-
scription was completely defaced and
illegible so soon as 1843, while the
original inscription remains uninjured
to this date. It was from this hero
that Sidney Point has its name. He
was among the most renowned leaders
of the P6Il1l1S\l.l8.l‘ war, and has a prouder
epitaph in the splendid narrative of his
deeds in Na ier’s History. Eastward
and onward rom the obelisk, at a little
distance, is the church, which Lady
Falkland compares to “a small, fancy
dairy with verandahs.” Beyond this is
the library, and close by the hotel.
About a quarter of a mile be ond this
are the new barracks, and h a mile
further the old sanatarium, to the right
of which a road leads to a magnificent
tank, formed by damming up a valley.
This admirable work was projected by
Col. P. Lodwick, and afterwards carried
out b his successor. A fine ti ress was
shot ere by Lieut. H hes, o the 4th
Rifles, on the 7th of ebruary, 1842,
after she bad killed two cows. Another
quarter of a mile and a road turns ofi‘
to the right or N.E. to Elphinstone
Point, to reach which the village of
Mahabaleshwar is passed. A second
branch-road to the right leads to Sidney
Point, and passes a rett bangle. with
a fine view, called “The a le’s Nest,"
at present belonging to - r. Lestock
Reid, of the Civil Service, while one
on the left leads to Scandal Point, other-
wise called Bombay Point, the fashion-
able drive, whence, in the far distance,
is seen the hill and fort of Makrangarh.
Before reaching this turning is the
burial ground on the left hand. It is a
quiet secluded spot, well fitted for the


340
Sect. I.
ROUTE 3.——MAH_iBALESHWAB. EILLS—PRA'l.‘A’PGABH.
last resting lace. Here, among others,
is buried
Dragoons, who was killed near these
hills by a bison. He was a fine athletic
man, upwards of 6ft. high, but was
borne some distance on the horn of the
infuriated beast, who dashed on with
him as though he were a feather. Here
is also buried Dr. Hennel, some time
Master of the Mint at Bombay, and a
truly scientific man. The Bombay Geo-
graphical Society was founded mainl
through his influence, and owed muc
to his exertions. He died on the 6th
of March, 1842. Major Miller's tomb
may also be remarked. It is an urn on
a pillar of grey stone, rather neatly
executed. Beyond the cemetery, on the
left of the road, is Sir Jamshfdjf Ji'i-
bhai’s house, and on the right a circ ar
walk round a hilly rise, called “ Murray's
Foll .” The main road continues on-
war to the Par Ghat, whence magnifi-
cent views are obtainable of Pratapgarh,
which towers aloft in solitary gran eur,
and which is seen from many other
points, as from Sidney and El hmstone.
(kk) 1’rata'pgarh.--Some 0 the most
icturesque scenes near the Hills have
been already indicated, but there is not
one which, for historic recollections or
natural beauty, is so deserving of a visit
as Pratapgarh. The distance from Mal-
colm Pe1'11_:h is called by the natives
three kos or six miles, and the direct
distance may indeed be that, but by the
Par Ghat it is over thirteen. The road,
however, presents magnificent views at
eve turn. The traveller may ride the
who e way into the fort, but the en-
trance is very rugged and stee . From
the walls are seen to the S. .Sidney
Point and Elphinstone Point and the
Marrf Mahal, as the Mahabaleshwar
Hills are called by the natives. Beyond
Elphinstone Point towers Raieshwar, a
cluster of black and abrupt precipices
which no human foot has ever trod. To
the N. rise the majestic Toma and
Rajgarh, and in the far distance Rai-
garh. On the S. is Makrangarh or
Dhabar, to use the native name. On
the W. the creek of Mahar and Polari-
ieut. Hinds, of the 4th‘
. some distance from the rest.
1 middle of the night Sivaji secretly in-

deo, and several tanks for rain water.
The old tower under which Siva'1’, in Oct.
1669, buried the head of Afgal _l1a.n, the
Bijapfir general, is crumbling to decay,
and is overgrown with weeds. This
- celebrated ex loit, the murder of Afgal
lflian, laid t e foundation of Siva'i’s
greatness and is thus admirably descri ed
by Grant Dufl“:-—“ Sivaji provided ac-
commodation for the envo and his suite,
but assigned a place for t e brahman at
In the
troduced himself to Pantoji Gopinath.
He addressed him as a hrahman, his
superior. He represented that ‘all he
had done was for the sake of Hiudiis
and the Hindu faith; that he was called
on by Bhawani herself, to protect brah-
maus and kine, to unish the violators
of their temples an their ods, and to
resist the enemies of their re igion; that
it became him as a brahmau to assist in
what was already declared by the deity;
and that here amongsthis caste and coun-
trymen he should hereafter live in com-
fort and ufliuencc.’ Sivaji seconded his
arguments with presents, and a solemn
romise of bestowing the village of
ewra in In'fim on im and his pos-
terity for ever. No brahman could
resist such an appeal, seconded b such
temptation; the envoy swore fide 'ty to
Sivaji, declared he was his for ever,
and called on the god to unish him if
he swerved from an task e might im-
pose. They accor ' gly consulted on
the fittest means for averting the present
danger. The brahmau, fully acquainted
with Afgal IQan’s character, suggested
the practicability of seducing lnm to a .
conference, and Sivaji at once deter-
mined on his scheme. He sent for a.
confidential brahman, already men-
tioned, Krishnaji Bhaskar, informed
him of what had 'ust passed, and of
the resolution whic he had, in con-
sequence, adopted. After fully con-
sulting on the subject, they separated as
secretly as they had met.
“ Someinterviews and discussions hav-
ing takeu place, merel for the purpose of
masking their design, rishnaji Bh askar,
pill’, are distinctly visible. Ill the fort 9,5 Sivajfg vakfl, was despgtched with
are two temples to Bhavani and Maha-
‘ Vol. i. page 169.


Bomba4;.
341
nourn 3.—MAHiBALnsnw.in i1rLr.s—i>nAriii=o.u2H.
Pantoji Go inath, to the camp of Afgal
Khan. T e latter represented Siva'i
as in great alarm; but if his fears co d
be overcome b the personal assurances
of the Ifiian, e was convinced that he
might easily be prevailed upon to give
himself up. With a blind confidence,
Afgal Igan trusted himself to Pai'itoji’s
guidance. An interview was agreed
upon, and the Bi'ap(ir troops with great
labor moved to aoli. Sivaji prepared
a place for the meeting, below the fort
of Pratapgarh; he cut down the jungle
and cleared a road for the IQ_ian's a -
preach; but every other avenue to t e
place was cnrefull closed. He ordered
up Moro Pant an Netaji Palkar from
the Koiikan, with many thousands of
the Mawali infantry. He communicated
his whole plan to these two, and to
Tanaji Malusré. Netaji was stationed
in the thickets a little to the E. of the
fort, where it was expected that a part
of the Khan's retinue would advance,
_ and Mo; Trimmal, with the old and
tried men, was sent to conceal himself
in the neighbourhood of the main bod
of the Biyaptir troops, which remainecz
as had been agreed upon, in the neigh-
bourhood of Jaoli. The preconcerted
signal for Netaji was the blast of a horn,
and the distant attack, by Moro Trim-
mal, was to commence on hearing the
fire of 5 guns from Pratapgarh, which
were also to announce Sivajfs safety.
1,500 of Afzal lQan’s troops accompa-
nied him to within a few hundred yards
of Pratapgarh, where, for fear of alarm-
ing Sivaji, they were, at Paiitoji Gropi-
nfith's suggestion, desired to halt. Afgal
Khan, dressed in a thin muslin garment,
armed only with his sword, and at-
tended, as had been agreed, by a single
armed follower, advanced i.n his pélki to
an open bangla pi-e ared for the occasion.
“ Sivaji had ma e preparations for his
pu ose, not as if conscious that he
me itated a criminal and treacherous
deed, but as if resolved on some meri-
torious, though desperate, action. Hav-
ing performed his ablutions with much
earnestness, he laid his head at his
mother’s feet and besought her blessing.
He then arose, put on a steel chain cap
and chain armour under his turban an
cotton gown, concealed acrooked dagger,
or bichwd, in his right sleeve, and on
the fingers of his left hand he fixed a
wdghnakh, a treacherous wea on, well
known among Marathas. hus ac-
coutred, he slowly descended the fort.
The _IQian had arrived at the place of
meeting before him, and was expressing
his impatience at the delay, when Sivaji
was seen advancing, apparently un-
armed; and, like the 1(_hé.n, attended
by onl one armed follower, his tried
friend €ma'i Malusré. Sivajf, in view
of Afgal __ an, frequently stopped,
which was represented as the effects of
alarm, a supposition more likely to be
admitted from his diminutive size.
Under pretence of assuring Sivaji, the
armed attendant, b the contrivanee of
the brahman, stoo at a few paces dis-
tant. Afgal lfiian made no objection
to Sivajfs follower, although he carried
two swords in his waistband,—a cir-
cumstance which might pass unnoticed,
being common amongst Marathas; he
advanced two or three aces to meet
Sivaji; they were intro uced, and, in
the midst of the customary embrace,
the treacherous Maratha struck the
wdghnakh into the bowels of Afgal
Khan, who quickly disengaged himself,
clapped his hand on his sword, exclaim-
ing, ‘Treachery and murder!’ But
Sivaji instantly followed up the blow
with his dagger. The I_{_han had drawn
his sword, and made a cut at Sivaji, but
the concealed armour was proof against
the blow; the whole was the work of a
moment, and Sivaji was wresting the
weapon from the hand of his victim
before their attendants could run towards
them. Saiyid Bandii, the follower of
the lflian, whose name deserves to be
recorded, refused his life on condition of
surrender; and, against two such
swordsmen as Sivaji and his companion,
maintained an unequal combat for some
time before he fell. The bearers had
lifted the Qian into his palki during
the seufile; but, by the time it was over,
Khandu Mallé, and some other followers
of Sivajf, had come up, when they cut
off the head of the d 'ng man, and
carried it to Pratapgar . The signals
agreed on were now made; the Ma-


342
Sect. I.
ROUTE 3.—MAHdBALESHWAB. HILLS--l§[AKBANGA1_2.H.
walls rushed from their concealment,
and beset the nearest part of the Bi-
japiir troops on all sides, fcw of whom
had time to mount their horses, or stand
to their arms. Netaji Palkar gave no
uarter; but orders were sent to Moro
aiit to spare all who submitted; and
Sivaj’i’s humanity to his prisoners was
conspicuous on this as well as on most
occasions. This success among apeople
who cared little for the means by which
it was attained, greatly raised the repu-
tation of Sivaji; and the immediate
fruits of it were 4,000 horses, several
elephants, a number of camels, a con-
siderable treasure, and the whole train
of equipment which had been sent
against him.” '
.Darm.—The sportsman will find ex-
cellent shikdris or native huntsmen at
the Hills waiting to be employed, and
many laces all round where he may ply
his ri e and gun. Jungle fowl and spur
fowl are to be had in most directions, and
there is always a chance of coming upon
a panther, a child, a bear, or a tiger.
Bison, once numerous on the hills, are
now only to be found at considerable
distances, and are excessively shy. For
a first attempt, the visitor in search of
glame may descend between Sidney and
lphinstone Points to the village of
Darra, which is situated about 2,000 ft.
down. The descent is rather fatiguing
on account of the long grass, low 'un-
gle, and broken masses of rocks, w ere
snakes are plentiful. Besides the cobra.
and rock snake, there are great numbers
of a most deadly little snake, called by
the natives plzursert, the Kaju Tate. of
Russell. It is requisite, therefore, to be
careful, though no European has yet
been killed by the bite of these reptiles.
Instances, however, of deaths among
the natives owing to the bites of snakes
are not uncommon. Enormous mon-
ke s inhabit the trees which clothe the
sidyes of the mountains, and there are
a few peacocks, which two kinds of
animals are said to be always in spots
where the tiger is found. The mon-
keys, by their cries and excitement,
wi l generally make known the where-
abouts of the monster. After reaching
Darra there is a path beside a clear

stream to another village, and thence
the return may be made up Sidney
Point. As the climber advances, the
ascent grows more steep, until near the
top there is a sheet of grass without
any jungle, so extremely slippery, that
it is almost impossible to cross it with
unspiked shoes, next to which bare feet
are safest. To those who are accus-
tomed to climb mountains, the ascent
will be very enjoyable, commanding as
it does the most magnificent scenery on
either side. To persons subject to gid-
diness this path can hardly be recom-
mended, as a slip might carry them
down man hundred feet into the forests
below. Alger passing the grass, a narrow
path about three feet broad is reached,
which winds along under Sidney Point
on the brink of a tremendous precipice,
and at last leads to the road. So great
is the height that if the visitor has
nerve to look down he will see the most
'gantic trees dwarfed to tiny shrubs.
ndeed the forest looks almost like a
carpet of moss.
]l[akran_qa_r'h.—An0tl1er place where
ame is to be found is the forest near
akrangarh. A ride of about 13 miles
leads through beautiful scenery to the
villa e of Dewli, where the sportsman
may alt in an old temple, under some
of the tallest trees to be found in these
parts. In the early morning the jungle
owl and partridges will be heard crying
in all directions on the road hither,
from the Hills’ side; while as evening
comes on, shouts may be occasionally
heard from the herdsmen calling to one
another to be on the look out, as some
one among them has from the moun-
tain top descried a prowling tiger near
the herds. A fine river flows through
the valleys in this direction, and the
jungles are adorned with magnificent
timber. Bears and chital, the spotted
antelope, are obtainable here, and occa-
sionally tigers; but the jungle is so
thick that it is exceedingly difllcult to
follow up or secure a wounded animal.
Besides these, there are many other
places to which the experienced shikdri
will conduct the sportsman, and even on
the hills themselves he may shoot tigers
and panthers if he is content to sit up


Bombay.
343.
ROUTE 4:.—BOM'.BAY T0 PA.l7I)HLRPl'711.
in a tree with a goat tied as bait at the
foot of it.
The road down to Par is not inferior,
perhaps, to any other from the Hills in
eauty.
(I) Pdr.-——There is a goodbazar and tra-
veller‘s bangla at Par, which is a village
with many temples, in a dell at the sum-
mit of the Ghat which bears its name.
To the right, at 2 m. distance, is the
fort of Pratapgarh, already described,
and which the traveller coming from
Bombay may visit from this place be-
fore procceding to Mahabaleshwar. The
Par Ghats is exceedinglysteep, in some
parts almost perpendicular. The journey
up it from Poladpfir is usually made in
a palki, and the traveller will do well
to recollect that he must here reverse
his osition of feet foremost, and be
carried up with his head in the ascend-
ant, unless he would wish to experience
inconvenience similar to that of be-
ing suspended by the heels for more
than an hour. Poladpfir is also a good
halting place, and near this is the tomb
of the Rev. Donald Mitchell, the first
Missionary of the Scottish Missionary
Society to India, who chose Bankot for
the scene of his labors. (See Oriental
Uhristia/n Spectator for 1840, p. 66.)
(m) Ma/zdr or Mdhdd is hot and un-
healthy, and has a most unenviable
reputation for cholera. The only induce-
ment to stop at the spot is the circum-
stance of there being two caves about a
mile from the town, and close to the ford
of the river, on the right hand of the
road which leads by Indrapfir to Bom-
bay. They are small and very rudely
executed, but contain two inscriptions,
fac-similes of which will be found in
Bird's Caves of Western India. The
first inscription refers to the Datha data, -
or “tooth-relic,” given at the funeral
pile of Bhagava (Buddha). One of
these caves contains a dahgapa. There
are said to be caves in the adjoining
Ghats also, which form the limit of what
is called the Pant Sachi'l)a’s territory.
These, however, have not been explored,
and the traveller who would ascertain
their existence and describe them would
be serving the cause of archaeological
research in India. Mahar is the place

where the treaty, spoken of by Grant
Duff, vol. iii., p. 142, was concluded in
1796 between NanaFai-navis and Nigam
’Alf,.by which Baji Rae was to be ele-
vated to the Peshwaship on the death of
Mahadeo Rao. Hence to Bombay is
100 m.: b the Sawitri river 30 m.,
and thence ;0 m. by sea, and this route is
often adopted by travellers to the Hills.
The objections are the occasional stormi-
ness of the passage and a dangerous bar
at the mouth of the river, where some
sad accidents have occurred, particularly
one in which Mrs. Malet, wife of the
present Member of Council of that name,
was drowned with her child, and Mr.
Malet was only saved by his native ser-
vant, who swam with him to shore.
Bankot, at the mouth of the river, was
one of A.ngria’s strongholds, and was
surrendered by that piratical chief to
the English in October, 1755, as the
fruit of Commodore James’ successes,
and Suwarnadurg (Severndroog) was at
the same time given up by Angria to
the Marathas. Fort Victoria is on the
S. side of the entrance to the river, on
a hi h barren hill of red color.
T e bangla at Indrapfir stands
high, and is altogether prettily situated.
At this place, therefore, rather than at
Mahar or Nagathanah, it will be well
to halt. At Nagathfmah there is an old
bridge worth a visit; but the place is
intensely hot, and the road to it is
through a jungle, where ti ers have
several times been eucountere . On one
occasion Dr. \Vi1son beheld here an
immense tiger drinking b the road
side, and was almost upon it before he
could check his horse. The passage
down the creek of N agathanah is ener-
ally accomplished by rowing, an from
its mouth to the Apollo Bandar at
Bombay there is a sea voyage of two
hours.
ROUTE 4.
FROM Bomanr TO SXTARX 193M. 1 F
BY Pl'1NAH, AND Sfiswno (SAssoon),
vrsrrmo Pfinsnimn, AND rnnivcn T0
Psfinnanrfia.
285 M. 4r.
For particulars of this Route as far
as Pfmah, see the preceding Route.


344
Sect. I.
RouTE 4.—BoMBAY TO PANDHARPUR-skswap.
MILITARY AUTHORITY.–From Panah
to Nirá bridge: Officer commanding at
Panah—Punah. Thence to Pandhar-
púr: Officer Commanding at Sátárá–
Sátárd.
CIVIL AUTHORITY. — Collector at
Púnah—Punah, to Nirá bridge. Thence
to Pandharpór: Commissioner at Sá-
tárá–Satdrd.
PLACES. STAGES.
M. F. M. F.
": to PU’NAH
(see Route 3)............ 119
Cantonment Church at
Púnah to Chhotá Kondwa 2
Ascend Báp Deo Ghat...
Summit of Ghât .........
Foot of Ghát ...... * * * * * *
BHIWRI ..........
Bápgáñw .....
Chámlí ........ -
Hiwrá .............. • * * * * * *
(a)SASWAD(SASSOOR)
b. p.o. (hence visit Pá-
randar) ..................
x Kará r. ..
Siwra..................
(b) Jr.JURr, dh..
x Wálá Khind....
4 119 4
9 6
|
7 3
9 6
14 2
Lenand ....................
x Sálpa n. to Thámbai...
SALPA.....................
Ascend Sälpa Ghat ......
Summit of Ghât .........
x 4 n. to DEUR .........
× Wasná r. to Pipari ...
Waral x Krishná r. by
bridge..................... 6
x Yená r. by bridge at
Wárá..................... 2
(e) SATARA, canton-
ment, 5................... 2
x Krishná, r. at its junc-
tion with Koiná r. to
Chhoti Māhuli .........
x small Ghât to Bari
Mahuli . • * * * * * * * *
Triputí ..
Lasurná.....
#
10 6
7 6
|
PLACES. STAGES.
M. F.
Pass Wardangarh fort,
mile to right...........
Pusagáñw ...... • * *
Sinduwari..................
NIDAL or NIRDAL ...
Mahimán Fort, 1 mile to
left..... • * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Bari Pinglí ...............
BARA GUNDAULA ...
Chhotá Gundaulá .........
x Mán Gangá r.
MASWAR ... •
Dúl Deo......... • - - - - - - - e.
Ascend Kolwanti Ghat...
Summit of Ghât ....... • •
Foot of Ghát ............
PILIWA ......... • • * *
Tândulwari ..... • •
BHALAWNY
Kupri
Wākri .....................
(d) PANDHARPUR, S.
side ........... .......... 4
M. F.
1
15 4
12 1
14 0.
12 4
10 7
|
0
14 0
12 6
|2
|4
Ascend Ghāt ........ • * * * * * *
14 5
285 4
The road from Pinah to Sátárà given
above is one of the most beautiful in
the Dakhan, and the sportsman and the
tourist will find abundant gratification.
The view from the top of the Báp Deo,
“Father God,” Ghát is very fine, and
extends over the Mútá Mulá plain,
taking in the hill forts of s: and
Torná. The traveller is now 3,000 ft.
above the sea, and, except in April and
May, the temperature is at least so
bearable as to give little inconvenience.
(a) Sdswad £ .—The road to
Sáswad is lined with fine mango trees,
£ by the Peshwás. Sáswad is a
arge market town on the left bank of
the Kará river. An old palace of the
Peshwa's beyond the town and across
the river, which, in the rainy season, is
difficult to cross, is used as a kacheri or
collector's office, and traveller's bangla,
The rooms are good, but low, and un-
furnished; so that if there is an inten-
tion of halting at it to visit Pirandar,
it would be well to make interest with
the civil officers of the district for some
requisite articles, as a bed, table, and


Bombay. RouTE 4.—BOMBAY To
PANDHARPüR—PóRANDAR. 345
chair: and it is also necessary to ask
ermission to stay at the palace. There
is fair quail shooting to be had in the
neighbourhood of this town; but for
hog-hunting the sportsman must go to
Pârgă'on or to Kāmgā’on, on the road
from Panah to Sholapür, in the adjoin-
ing Bhimătadi district. In an island in
the river as you cross to the banglá are
some temples of black basalt. The
Peshwá's palace still bears marks of
English shot. As Pirandar was a fa-
vorite residence of the Peshwás, the
national spirit of the Marathas has
always been strong in it, and the in-
habitants have not been backward in
shewing their dislike to Europeans
when they could do so with impunity.
At this place the Amirs of Sindh were
confined for some time. Though pri-
soners, they were permitted to amuse
themselves with their favorite pursuit,
shooting, and the hogs in the vicinity
were much reduced in numbers by their
battues.
Purandar, or, according to Blacker,
Punadar (Poorundhur of £"
The hill-fort of Pürandar is not more
than 5 miles in direct distance from
Sáswad, and by the road it is an easy
morning ride. The ascent is by a
rough, steep path, but the traveller may
ride up the whole way. According to
Thornton," who, however, merely tran-
scribes the words of Grant Duff (vol. i.
p. 207, note) the highest point of the
mountain is upwards of 1,700 ft. from
the plain immediately below, and 4,472
ft. above the sea. Another authority
makes it 2,500 ft. above the plain, re-
ferring, probably, to a different part of
the low country. It is certain, at least,
that Púrandar is the most elevated point
of the ridge which runs from the W.
Ghats and terminates at Jijärí. The
climate is so fine that one may sleep
even without a tent, and this fort has
consequently just been made a conva-
lescent station for Europeans from
Pūnah. There are several tanks cut in
the solid rock in the forts, which are
two, '' and lower, situated about
300 ft. below the summit. The view is
* Gazetteer, 8. v. Poorundhur.
magnificent. It will be well for a
stranger to get an introduction to some
inhabitant of the many banglas, as
there is no house for travellers.
Púrandar was one of the first places
occupied by Sivaji, having been acquired
by him in 1647. The Kil'adar, dying
in that year, left three sons, who chose
Sivaji to be arbitrator of their disputes.
That wily chief entered the fort with a
few attendants, and persuaded the two
younger brothers to make the eldest a
prisoner. Under the pretext of fur-
thering this design, he got them to
admit a band of his Máwalis, and im-
mediately captured the fort for himself.
In 1665 this fort was most gallantly
defended for Sivaji by Baji Parbhū,
who disputed every inch of ground with
Diler Khán, the general of Aurangzíb's
army. At last a mine blew up one of
the towers of the lower fort, and so
shattered the rock, that the besiegers
were enabled to effect a lodgment in
the lower fort. But while the Afghans,
who formed the storming party, were
£ they were suddenly attacked
y the garrison, and driven out of the
fortifications, and thence headlong down
the hill. This success was stopped by
the death of the Marātha leader, who
was shot with an arrow by Diler Khán.
After this the Mughuls succeeded in
capturing Wajragarh, a small detached
fort on the N ' angle of Parandar hill,
which commands a great part of the
works. From this they kept up a can-
nonade for weeks, and at length the
arrison would have evacuated the fort,
ut Sivaji made terms with the imperial
general, and surrendered Púrandar and
with it 19 other forts, but only to re-
capture them again in 1670, when Pú-
randar was escaladed and reduced by
the Marathas with little difficulty. In
1714, Yesu Bái, mother of the Pant
Sachiva gave up, Pürandar to Bălăji
Wishwanath, the founder of the Peshwa
dynasty, as a place of refuge for his
family, then residing in Saswad. “On
the same pretence,” Bălăji obtained a
grant of it from Sāhu (the Raja of
Sátárá), by which concession, that
* Grant Duff, vol. i. p. 437.


346
Sect. I.
aourr. 4.—-BOMBAY TO rai~'n1nnriia——JiJr':ai.
prince forged the first link in the chain
which afterwards fettered his own power,
and reduced his successors to empty
pageants of brahman policy." On the
lst of March, 1776, a treaty of 18 ar-
ticles was signed here by Colonel Upton,
agent for \l”arren Hastings, and N {ma
Farnavis, by which Salsette_was to be
retained by the English or exchanged
for territory of £30,000 annual revenue,
as the Governor-General might decide ;
the revenue of Bharuch was ceded to
the En lish, and £120,000 guaranteed
to the ombay Government in payment
of expenses incurred, and the treaty
between that Government and Raghuba
Peshwa was formally annulled. Un the
14th of March, 1818, Piirandar was
attacked by the En lish column under
General Pritzler. l‘he British troops
had advanced by way of Ji'(iri, and
at Saswad had had some littie trouble
in capturing “ a strong stone building *
in hich 200 Arabs, Sindhis, and Hm-
diistanis had shut themselves up, with
some small guns. The walls were so
substantial that six-pounders were found
incapable of affecting them. Eighteen-
pounders were then brought up; but,
though these also appeare to make as
little impression on the walls, they had
sufficient effect on the minds of the gar-
rison to induce their surrender at dis-
cretion." On the 14th a mortar bat-
tery opened, and on the 15th Wajra-
"arh -|~ surrendered, and as it commanded
lhirandar, the I_(il'adar of the latter place
was compelled to capitulate on the l6th.I
The sportsman may occasionally find
panthcrs and chitzis in the hills round
Purandar ; deer and sdmbar are also to
be met with at no very great distance.
(I1) J('j12r1'.—This place is famous for
a temple of considerable size, and built
in a picturesque situation on the sum-
mit of a hill, about 260 ft. high. The
temple was built by Holkar, about

two centuries ago, and is dedicated to
Khaildoba or Khandcraw (M. k/zaziqi, a
sword, and rdw, king), an incarnation
of Shiva, but dimly distinguished from
Bhairava, a terrific form of the above-
named deity. The whole ascent of the
hill is covered with pillars and gate-
ways set up by various votaries, and
there are many stone images of animals,
which are also the records of vows.
The huge drum in the nalrlrdmh kluinalz,
or music room, at the top, is heard to a
great distance round, and has a remark-
able effect, when, breaki the stillness
of the night, it arrests t e traveller's
attention, and he beholds a huge mass
of pillars and buildings faintly lit up
by the moon or the light of torches. The
revenues of the temple are apportioned
thus‘ :——The Government has the offer-
ings of two months and 18 da s, being
the Saturdays, Sundays, and londays
of Ashwin, the first six days of Mar-
gashirsh, and the whole of Paush and
Magh. Of the remaining months, the
offerings of one half are given to certain
Shudras employed in the service of the
temple called Guravs, and the other half
realized is apportioned equally between
the Garalwa and Virs. Ture and chu_re,
arlands and bracelets, are also ofl'ered
or the government throughout the year.
It is estimated that there are from 125
to 150 girls attached to the temple, who
lead an infamous life. Of these about
80 are present at the place, and the rest
are scattered through the villages within
20 miles. These girls are formally mar-
ried to the god, and they, and the male
servants of the temple, are continually
recruited in the following way :——When
a man or woman, being childless, is
anxious for offs ring, such a person vows
that if a chil be granted it shall be
devoted to the god. Accordingly, whe-
ther male or female, it is, on its birth,
made over to the care of the servants of
the temple, and is brought up in habits
of shameful profligacy. Among the
noticeable things at this shrine is a long
pole covered with red and blue cloth,
and having a crown of peacock’s feathers
at the end; this is carried round on
* Blacker’: Mardtjla lVar, p. 241.
1 This place is wrongly called Wnzcer Ghur
by Blacker.
t All the adjacent forisl surrendered in the
same easy way. In fact the only one which
made anything like a defence was Wasota.
where Cornet-s Hunter and Morrison were
rescued. having been confined for man weeks
m a dark dungeon. where they ha never
beheld the light of diq’.
' Oriental Christian Spectator for 1887. p. 204,


Bombay. acorn 4-.—-BOMBAY T0 P.ir'rpirAaPi'in—s.ir,in.i—rnii roar. 347
pilgrimage to other shrines, and is, as
it were, the banner of Khandoba.
In the Nira’ Bridge the traveller will
observe one of the best works of the
kind, if not the best, ever constructed
by the Marathas.
(0) Sdta'm’.—The city of Satara has
many historic recollections, and the
station is one of the most salubrious
and pleasant in the Dakhan. The town
is situated in a hollow between two
ranges of hills, which rise above it on
the E. and W., and partly overlap it on
the S. also. The Hill on the W. is the
termination of a spur, which runs down
from the Mahabaleshwar Hills. It is
called Yuteshwar, and there are some
temples on the top with a colony of
brahmans, and also of the largest mon-
keys to be seen in these parts. These
creatures run chattering up to a stranger
in a menacing manner, and might, per-
ha s, attack a single unarmed indi-
vidiual; but if threatened, they disappear
over the face of the clifl‘, which is quite
perpendicular and of great height. The
monkeys manage, however; to scud along
its brow, clinging to the underwood an
bushes which grow along it. The Ghat
up Yuteshwar from Satfira is very steep
and paved with rugged stones, so that
some care is required in riding up and
down it. From the hill to the city
there is an aqueduct, a distance of 4
miles, and 2 fine tanks are passed be-
tween the palace and the foot of the
hill.
Tho For-t.~—On the E. of the city is
the hill on which is the fort. The fort
is said to have been built by a Raja of
Panéla, who, as testified by a copper
plate found at sam.a,* reigned in A.D-
1192. By him, too, were erected the
forts of Bairatvarh and Pariglugarh,
near Wei, and Chandan and \Vandan,
near sauna Long before the time of
the 'Kdi1 Shahf dynasty at Bijapur, the
fort of semi-a+ was used as a state
prison, and Sivaji, who captured it in
I673, after a siege of several months,
unwittingly fumished for his descend-
ants a prison in which they were for
' Gram! D1417, yol. i., p. $8. Transactions of
Bombay Lit. Soeie! . vol. iii.
T Grant Dim’, vo . i.. p. 260.

years confined. In 1698, at the sug-
gestion of Ramchandar Pant, same.
was made the capital of the Maretha
government. Next year Aurangzib,
with a reat army, arrived before the
city. is own tents were pitched on
the N. side of the fort, on the site of
the resent village of Karanja. ’AJ,im
Sha was stationed at a village on the
W.~ side, which has since retained the
name of Shahpfir, or “the Shah’s town."
Shirzi lflian invested the S. and Tar-
biyat Iflian oecu ied the E. uarter.
Chains of posts etween the erent
camps effectually secured the blockade.
The fort occupies the summit of a hill,
which is about 800 ft. high, and extends
1,100 yds. in length and 500 in breadth.
The sides are very steep, and even the
ascent from the city by a somewhat
winding path on the W. is difficult.
The defences consist of a scarp of up-
wards of 40 ft. in perpendicular black
rock, on the top of which is a stone
wall. It was defended against Aurang-
zib by Pryagji Prabhfi, hawaldar, who
had been reared in the service of Sivajf.
As soon as the Mu@uls began to gain
any part of the hill, he withdrew his
troops into the fort, and rolled down
huge stones from the rock above, which
did great execution, and, until cover
could be thrown up, were as destructive
as artillery. The blockade, however,
was complete, no communication could
be held with the country, and as the
small stock of grain in the garrison was
soon exhausted, the besieged must have
been compelled to surrender; but Par-
shuram Trimbak, who had thrown him-
self into the fort of Prali, purchased the
connivance of ’A’_7,im Shah, and con-
veyed stores to the besieged. The
Mughul troops on the W. and S. faces
erected batteries; but the grand attack
was directed against the N.E. angle,
which stands up like a tower, and is
one of the strongest oints, the rock
being 42 ft. high, an the bastion on
the top consistin of 25ft. of masonry,
making a total eight of 67ft. Tar-
biyat gran undertook to mine this
angle, and at the end of 4; months had
completed two mines. So confident
were the Mughuls of success, that the


348 nours 4.-—l‘:0MBAY T0 miwnnnnriin-—sA'r£nL—PnLncn. Sect. I.
storming pa was formed under the
brow 0 the hill. Aurangzib moved
out in grand procession to view the
attack, and the garrison, and among
them Pry_€1gjf, attracted by the splendor
of his retinue, crowded to the rampart.
The first mine burst several fissures in
the rock, and so violent was the con-
cussion, that a great part of the masonry
was thrown inwards, and crushed many
of the garrison to death. The storming
party advanced with eagerness, and at
" that moment the second and larger mine
burst outwards with a terrible explosion,
and destroyed upwards of 2,000 Mugl_1uls.
Prya 'i was buried by the first explo-
sion c ose to a temple to Bhavani, but
was du out alive. This was regarded
by the arathas as a happy omen, and,
animated by it, the garrison would have
made a prolonged and desperate defence,
but provisions fell short, and 'A’gim
Shah would no longer connive at their
introduction. Pro osals of surrender
were, therefore, ma e through him, and
the honor of the capture, which he so
ill-merited, was not only assigned to him,
but the very name of the place, in com-
pliment to him, was changed by the
Emperor to ’A'g1'm Tara.
In 1705 the fort was retaken by the
Marathas, through the artifice of a
brahman named Anaji Pant. He in-
gratiated himself with the Mughuls
under the character of a mendicant
devotee, amusing them with stories and
songs, and, being allowed to reside in
the fort, introduced a body of Mawalis,
and put eve man of the garrison to
the sword. o this place, on the sur-
render of Trichinépalli (Trichinopol )
on the 26th of March, 1741, Chan a
Sahib, the well-known aspirant to the
Nawabship of the Karndtak, was brought
a prisoner, and remained under surveil-
lance 7 years. In 1798 Ram Raja, son
of‘ Siva'i II., got possession of the fort,
and collected troops with a view of re-
gaining his independence from the
Peshwa Bhji Rao; but his forces were
surprised by Parshuram Bhaw, and
driven out of the town in spite of the
heroism of Yeloji Mohité and Lenaji
Mohité, who charged singl into a host
of enemies and were kille . After the

rupture with Baji Rao, the English
troo s marched to Satara, which sur-
ren ered, after little or no resistance,
on the 10th of February, 1818, and
Pratap Singh, eldest son of Sahu II.,
was installed as Raja. He held the
principalit 21 years, and was sent pri-
soner to anaras in 1839, being suc-
ceeded by his brother, Apa. Sahib, on
whose death, in 1848, the territory was
annexed.
The ate-of the fort is on the W.
side, an up to it, as has been said, a
steep zig-zag path leads from the town.
Continuing along the same side, near
the further extremity is the old palace,
in which are some curious and not very
refined mythological pictures. On the
opposite side from the palace is another
gate, not used. There are also 16 tem-
les, of which 11 are to Shiva and 5 to
havani, the especial patroness of Si-
vaji and his family. Panthers are occa-
sionally seen, from the walls of the fort,
basking on the rocks, a few score feet
below the ramparts. The view from
the fort is very beautiful, hills rising
in every direction of varied form,
and some of them crowned with old
forts now crumbling to decay. Such
are the hills of Ghandan and Wandan
on the W., and the lofty hill of Amboli
which, accordi to Hindu legend, was
a pebble that slipped from a moun-
tain which Hanumau was car 'ng to
help in making a bridge from ndia to
Lanka in Rama’s war with Ravan. A
wide plain extends to the N., opening
out from the town and comprehending
the cantonment on the W., the Resi-
denc with its fine garden on the E.,
and beyond, many gardens and groves.
Through this plain runs a broad excel-
lent road, shaded by an avenue of trees
to the Sangam, or Junction of the rivers
Krishna and Yena at the beautiful vil-
lagc of Mahuli.
The PaZace.—After satisfying himself
with the scenery, the traveller may pay
a visit to the Palace, which lies on the
S.W. side of the town. It is a ver
lar e, but not particularly tastefu ,
hm ding. The apartment most worth
seeing _is the Jalmmidir, or “ water
pavillonf’ a place built on the model of


.BomIm_z/.
349
ROUTE 4.—sonB.iY TO miInnAn1>1'Jn——mi11nr.i.
the Residency, but surrounded by vines
and cooled by numerous jets of water,
being nearly encircled by a tank. The
greatest curiosity to be seen here is,
however, Siva'i’s famous sword called
Bhavani, whic is now worshipped as a
deity, and has a tem le to itself. It is
very long, the bla e being 4ft. and
several inches, and quite straight, of
good and well-polished steel, with two
grooves running down it. According
to Lady Falkland, vol. ii., p. 34, it is a
genuine Andrea Ferrara. The handle
IE very small, too small to admit the
hand of a moderate-sized European;
and there is a spike on the top of the
handle for beating back an enemy, who
might have got within the guard. It
is marvellous how Sivaji, who is repre-
sented as a very slight small man, could
have wielded so lone and ponderous a
weapon; yet with this sword he slew
Afgal Qan, the Bijapdr general (see
Pratapgarh, p. 341). The wdglmakh,
or “ t1 er's claws,” which Siva'i plunged
into __al llhan’s stomach is also shown,
and a smaller sword, which once be-
longed to the Sahu Raj s.
The village of Mdlmli Mowlee).—
This is the Scandal Point of the station,
and is reached b a pleasant evenings
drive or ride. n both sides of the
river are several temples, and on the
sszsrs side are some magnificent ban-
yan trees, inhabited by huge monkeys
with grey beards. On a very high
bank overlooking the stream, with a
broad flight of steps to descend to it,
are several temples. Of these, one is
dedicated to Parshuram, the 6th incar-
nation of Vishnu, who is said to have
performed austerities for many days at
this spot. This temple is about 180
years old. Another is dedicated to the
rivers, and a third to Rameshwar.
This last was built by a banker named
Parshuram, who is said to have found
a large cavity filled with treasure at
Satara. There are also several hand-
some tombs to widows who have per-
formed satf here. The last sati took
place on the 12th of August, 1836, the
victim being an aged brahman woman.
Lutfullah also, in his Autobiogra hy,
p. 221, refers to one. Not far om
these tombs is one* to a black dog that
saved the life of the Sahu Rsjs. This
prince was very fond of hunting, and on
one occasion a tiger was about to attack
him, when a black greyhound by its
barkin drew his attention, and he
killed t e ferocious animal in the act to
spring.
There are man beautiful rides at
Satara, and goo sport to be had.
Quail and floncan are plentiful in the
neighboring villages, and foxes are
very numerous. These are coursed with
reyhounds, and afford excellent sport.
ears, panthers, and chitds may occa-
sionall be found. 1111836 a large bear
came own to plunder the Residency
garden, and slipped into the large well
there. When the gardener went to
draw water he beheld the animal swim-
ming round and round, there being no
possibility of its escape, and it was many
ours be ore it sank. A mango tree in
this garden is worth a visit, being a very
fine specimen, and nearly 30 ft. i.n cir-
cumference. At a village a few miles
oil‘ is a still larger tree of the same
s ecies, and nearly 40 feet round.
hose who take an interest in old tra-
ditions will find Satara a gpod place for
inquiry after such legen . l‘here is
one, and most probably founded on fact,
that when the fort was erected the son
and daughter of the principal Mahar in
the place were burie alive at the prin-
cipal entrancc, which, as already noticed,
is on the W., and may be known by two
large fish, the ensigns of nobility, sculp-
tured upon it. These living sacrifices are
part 0 the aboriginal worship of the
country, and the legend tends to show
that the Mahars are no other than the
aborigines, as, indeed, is believed on
many other accounts. During the
Dasahra the Mahars of Satara sacrifice
a male bufl‘alo at the temple of Bhavani,
which stands at the N .E. angle of the
fort where the mine, so fatal to the
Mugul troops, was s rung. The
animal is buffeted, woun ed, and driven
furionsl about in the very way in which
the Tu as (see p. 144) beat the buffalos
they sacrifice at their funeral rites. In
' Chow-chow, vol. ll. p. 82.


350
Sect. I.
RouTE 5.—BoMBAY To DAMAN.
this, then, there is an undoubted relic
of most ancient aboriginal worship.
The road from Sátárá to Pandharpúr
has been lately cleared and made. Sup-
plies are not very abundant, but the
sportsman may always provide game for
himself.
(d) Pandharpiir. This is a town with
a population of about 20,000 persons,
situate on the very verge of the Sátárá
and Sholapar Collectorates, and on the
high roads from Panah to Bijapór, and
from Sátárá to Sholapür. It is a place
therefore of great importance owing to
its situation. It is also one of the most
sacred places in the W. of India in the
eyes of the Hindús, it being supposed
to be the residence of Withobà, a sub-
ordinate incarnation of Vishnu, or rather
Krishnah himself, who is supposed to
have visited this city. The legend is
told in More's Hindu Pantheon, and is
briefly this:—A, brahman named Pan-
dali, on a pilgrimage to Banāras with
his wife and parents, neglected the latter.
Stopping at Pandharpar, he put up at
the house of a brāhman who was a
pattern of filial piety. , Here Pandalf
was not only rebuked by the example
of his host, but Gangá, Yamunā, and
Saraswati appeared to him in the shape
of three beautiful ladies, who performed
the household duties in this pattern
family, and on his inquiring how they
could so humiliate themselves, informed
him that the gods delighted to honor those
who £ their parents. Hereupon
Pandalí abandoned all idea of his pil-
grimage, and fixing himself at Pandhar-
púr, devoted himself so assiduously to
his father and mother that Vishnu be-
came incarnate in him, and he took the
name of Withobd, which is said to mean,”
“receiver of the ignorant.” . The town
is filled with a class of priests called
Pujdris, who are brahmans, and whose
business is to beat up for pilgrims, and
to instruct the pilgrims in the proper
mode of worship. These men reside in
a street which runs round the principal
temple, and which contains all the sub-
ordinate shrines. Their houses may be
known by the number of stories, often
* Molesworth's Maráths, Dictionary.
six or seven, a height very unusual in
the Dakhan. They lodge the pilgrims
without charge, but each disciple on
leaving the town is expected to make a
£ which far exceeds the cost of
is entertainment. His name is further
recorded in a book or roll. By refer-
ence to their registers, which are most
carefully # a Pujari can tell at once
whose hereditary guest a pilgrim is, and
the allotment is most jealously looked to,
and observed. The ceremonies are end-
less, but the principal one is the em-
bracing the image of Withoba, which is
about 4 ft. high, of black basalt, and
represents a man with his arms akimbo.
It stands in a dark cell about 12 ft.
square, and accessible by only one small
doorway. Consequently, when 50,000
pilgrims are congregated, the difficulty
of £ e image is great. A
Pujári stands behind the idol to receive
the offerings, and he is relieved every
half hour, that being the utmost time a
strong man can bear the heated and
stifling atmosphere. Pandharpūr was
the scene of the infamous murder of
Gangadhar Shåstri, the envoy of Fath
Singh Gaekwád to the Peshwā Bāji Rāo.
The Peshwá invited him to attend him
on a pilgrimage to that place, and there,
on the 14th of July, 1815, the Shāstrí
was barbarously cut to pieces by assas-
sins hired by Trimbakji Dänglia, the
Peshwä's minister. An account of this
affair, which was one of the principal
causes of the rupture between the Peshwa
and the English, will be found in Grant
#: History of the Mardthas, vol. iii.
p. 374.
ROUTE 5.
BoMBAY To DAMAN (DEMAUN).
125 Miles, 2 Fur.
(Part of the route from Bombay to
Sórat.)
MILITARY AUTHORITY—Officer Com-
manding at Bombay—Bombay, as far
as Māhim Causeway. From Mahim
Causeway to Dáman: Officer Command-
ing Panah Division—Punah.
Civil AUTHORITY.—To Nowapara,
or S. suburb of Dáman: Collector of


Bombay.
351
RoUTE 5.-BOMBAY To DáMAN-DAMAN.
Thánah-Thanah.
Portuguese Governor-Daiman.
PLACES.
*: Cathedral to
Parell.................
S. extremity of Mahim
Causeway ...............
N. extremity of do. and
BANDORA ...
Kárigá'on ...
Púla dh ......
Anderí ......
Goraga'on ..................
MALLAR ..................
Kāshí .................. -
GHORABANDAR ......
x arm of the sea to land-
ing place in Wasai
Bassein) t................
WASAI (BASSEIN) city
x creek to SACHPA-
-
RAH b. .............. -
x several creeks to Agási,
dh. ........................
x in boat Waitarna Creek
DANTURA ...............
x creek to Dánda .........
x Dânda r. to Kilwi......
x creek to Mahim, dh....
x creek to SIRGAON ...
Sātpatti............ - * * *
x Sātpatti Creek to Mu-
ramb ........... • -
Nandgä'on......
Aliawāri........ •-
Nowapúra ..................
x Surní Mátá Creek......
x Dhār Creek to Papran
x Gaoli Creek to Târâpar
x creek to CHICHAN...
x creek to Bar ............
x SURI r.,700 yds. wide,
to DANU ...............
x Kotamba or Wāghnadí
Creek to Chiklí .........
x Badori Creek to Golwar
x two creeks to Burdi ...
x Jai Creek and n. to
Gowand..................
Dewarai................... -
x n. to old Umarga'on...
UMARGA’ON ...... ---
x r to Nargul ............
Thence to Dáman:
STAGES.
M. F. M. F.
5 0
3 4
0 5 9 1
1 0
1 5
2 6
2 1
1 6 9 2
7 0}
17 87%
5 0
1 0 6 0
11 0 1 1 0
4 1
2 3
2 0 8 4
7 4
0 5
2 6
4 3 15 2
2 3
0 5
2 2
1 3
1 2
0. 5
0 6
4 6
0 4 14 4
5 7
3 4 9 3
5 3
2 7
2 3
2 4
04
2 2
1 0 16 7
1 5
PLACES. STAGES
M. F. M. F.
x Sarundi Creek ........ . 2 3
3 3
x Creek to Fansa........ . 3 4
x Mor Creek to Kalai ... 30
x Kalai r. to Jajpar...... 7
(a)NOWAPURA S. suburb
of DAMAN (Demaun) 1 6 164
125 2}
The only remarkable places on this
Route, Ghorá Bandar, and Wasai or
Bassein, have already been described,
and this Route is here given only as a
portion of that to Sürat, and as '
the line over which the Bombay an
Baroda Railway will be made. It is
advisable to travel on this road between
the springs, during which the streams
fill with great rapidity, and are dan-
gerous.
(a) Daman.—The town of Dáman
(Demaun) is close to the fort, on the
S.W. side, and on the S. bank of the
Dáman Gangă, or “Border Ganges,” a
deep navigable stream, never fordable,
and 350 yards wide at the ferry. The
N. and W. faces of the fort are washed
by the sea. The rise of the tide is
18ft. The river has a bar at its mouth,
with 2 ft. at low water spring tides, and
18 or 20 ft. water inside. In common
springs there is never less than 3 fathoms
on the bar. Outside the bar is a road
in which vessels may anchor in 8
fathoms. The town £ to the Por-
tuguese, is fortified, and has a rampart
with 10 bastions and 2 gateways. There
are 9 churches. The fort is called the
Castle of St. Hieronymus. The country
around is fruitful, and produces good
vegetables. In the rains it is much
overflowed. This is a good harbor for
the repair of small vessels, timber being
plentiful. Dáman is described as a
town “great and strong,” when sacked
and burned by the Portuguese in 1531.
It was then rebuilt, and again cap-
tured by the Portuguese in 1558, who
changed the mosque into a church. It
is the capital of a district about 10 miles
in length from N. to S., and 5 in
breadth.


352
Sect. I.
RoUTE 6.-PüNAH To AHMADNAGAR—LoNí.
ROUTE 6.
FROM PöNAH To AHMADNAGAR, BY
LoNí, KoRIGA'oN AND SERóR.
73. M. 5 F.
MILITARY AUTHORITY.–From Pü-
nah to Kondaptir: Officer Commanding
at Púnah—Punah. Thence to Ahmad-
nagar: Officer Commanding at Ahmad-
nagar—Ahmadnagar.
IVIL AUTHORITY—From Pönah to
Końdápúr: Collector at Panah—Punah.
Thence to Ahmadnagar : Collector at
Ahmadnagar—Ahmadnagar.
PLACES. STAGES.
M. F. M. F.
Púnah cantonmentChurch
x n to Ghorpari 1
Mundāwa on Mütā Mūlá r 2
S. bank of r................
x r. to Karādhi on N. b.
Wāghūlí ......... ........
(a) LONI b, .
x Bhimá r. .
(b) Korigá'on ......
x Yel r. by bridge
Shikrápur ...........
KONDAPUR 5. ...
Ranjanga'on......
Kárigá'on ....
Saradwādi....
(c) SERUR b. p. 0 •
X Ghod r. ..................
Náráyanga'on ... - - -
Ascend Ghāt ...... • * *
'' of Ghât ........ • • * * * * *
x Hangá r. to Waghundá
Wells of fresh water......
SUPA b, ..................
:
14 0
13 6
15 0
Khairgá'on
x Sinar. ..................
#) Ahmadnagar S. gate
. GATE ..................
• *
17 1
73 5
(a) Loni –This place derives interest
from an able paper in the Trans. Lit.
Soc. Bomb., vol. iii. p. 172, by Mr. Thos.
Coats, in which he describes the vil-
lage system of the Dakhan, taking the
Loni districts for his sample. The
following extract from Mr. T. Coats'
admirable paper will give a general
idea of Marātha country towns and
country life, but the whole paper de-
serves to be studied by all who would
gain an insight into the character and
customs of the Marātha nation. The
paper was written indeed, on the 29th
of February, 1820, but it is an endurin
picture of the manners of the cultivat-
ing classes of Hindústán –“The town
of Loni is situated on a dry slope, over-
looking its gardens and arable lands,
which extend to the eastward, and afford
a pleasant prospect when the crop is on
the ground. The lat. is 18° 37' N., and
long. 74° 8' E., and it is about 12 miles
N.E. of Púnah, and 70 miles in a direct
line from the W. sea-coast, and about
1,470 ft. above its level. . At a distance
the town has the appearance of a mass
of crumbling clay walls, with a few
stunted trees growing out amongst them,
and here and there a building like a barn
or stable covered with red tiles. The
whole is surrounded by a mud wall of a
circular form that measures five furlongs,
and is from 10 to 14 ft, in height, and
4 or 5 ft. thick at the bottom, and in-
creasing (sic) towards the top. It has
two rude gates 10 or 12 ft. high, and as
many wide, made of two pieces of thick
£, of teak wood, united by cross
beams let into an eye cut in a frame
above, and resting on a hollowed stone
below, on which they turn instead of
hinges. On entering the town, appear-
ances are not more prepossessing; no-
thing meets the eye but filth and misery,
a total neglect of all regularity, neat-
ness, and comfort; what seemed crumb-
ling clay walls are the dwelling-houses
of a great body of the inhabitants, made
of sun-dried bricks of the white calcareous
earth that has been described, with ter-
raced tops of the same material: some,
however, are uninhabited ruins; and
some have pieces of straw thatch thrown
'' against them, to shelter some wretch-
ed people and their cattle who have not
the means of getting better lodging.
The inhabited £ -houses amount
to 107; and the public buildings are the
châwadi or town-hall; three Hindú
temples, one dedicated to Mahādeo, one
to £, and the third to Bhairava;
and a Muhammadan place of worship at


Bombay. RouTE 6.—PóNAH To
AHMADNAGAR-LONí. 353
present in ruins. The buildings are put
down as if by chance, without any atten-
tion to regularity. Narrow, dirty, crook-
ed lanes wind through some of them.
Some are in clusters of three or four,
and others are entirely detached. The
houses are generally constructed as if
for defence, and have an impression of
gloom and unsociableness. The best
are surrounded by a square dead wall,
which is entered by a low door. Two or
three sides are occupied by sheds for
cattle, husbandry implements, etc., and
one only by the dwelling-house. If a
wall does not enclose the whole, there is
a walled court in front, or in the rear,
or both. The houses have all square
gable-ends, and a sort of open portico
runs along the front of the dwelling-
house; the poorer employ this to tie
their cattle in, and the richer as a store-
room, or keep it clean to sit in. From
the centre of the portico a small door
leads into the body of the house, which
is divided into two, three, or four small
rooms, without any openings to admit
the air and light; at the back of which
is another open purasdar, or portico
corresponding with that in front, which
commonly opens into a private court
used by the women for bathing, etc.
The purasdar is sometimes open, at other
times divided into rooms more or less
numerous. The rooms in the centre, or
mazghar, are of a good size. Some are
3} cubits broad and 6 cubits long; they
are generally used for sleeping-rooms,
and the hottest and darkest are chosen
for child-bed women and the sick of the
family. A good terraced house, for a
cultivator and 6 or 8 bullocks, will be
30 cubits long and 20 wide. The walls,
built of sun-dried bricks, are 5 cubits
high; the doors are 3 cubits high and
1} wide; the roof is formed by small
beams of wood, a span asunder, laid
across the room; and across these pieces
of plank are laid, and on this chips, and
the whole is covered with 8 or 10 inches
of terrace, made of white earth, so as to
give alight slope, which effectually keeps
out ordinary rain; and, if the wood is
good, will last 50 or 60 years. When
grass grows on this terrace, it must be
removed from time to time, otherwise
the roots give admission to the wet, and
occasion it to leak. A house of this
description will cost 300 rupees. Two
or three houses have upper stories, but
they are the property #some families
who formerly inherited a portion of the
Government revenues of the village, and
had a horse in the service of Govern-
ment; these houses probably cost about
1000 rupees. The houses of the poorest
inhabitants are not more than 10 or 12
ft. long, 4 or 5 ft. wide, and covered with
ass, and cost 20 or 30 rupees; they
ave square gable-ends, which also is
the form of all the houses. The out-
casts, till lately, occupied a place by
themselves outside the wall, and, as
usual, on the E.; but, in consequence
of their houses having been destroyed
during the late campaign, they have
been permitted to construct some tem-
porary places within the wall. The
châwadi or town-hall, where the public
business of the township is transacted, is
a building 30 ft. square, with square
gable-ends and a roof of tiles supported
on a treble row of square wooden posts;
it cost about 250 rupees, which was paid
out of the Government revenues of the
village. Travellers put up here, and the
Government messengers; a corner of it
at presentisoccupied by the koli or water-
carrier. The temple of Mahádeo is built
of hewn stone and lime, with a terraced
roof of the same materials. It is about
16ft. wide and 10 ft.long, and is divided
into two parts. The front, which is to
the E., is a small portico, entered b
three pointed arches; and the bac
£ which is entered from the portico
y a small door, is the sanctum, and
contains the ling and silvanka. This.
temple was built about 18 years ago by
Eswant Ráo Sindhia, a £ of the
present pâtil, in the hope probably of
covering some of his sins. He was em-
# for many years as a siladár in
indhia's service, and made a great deal
of money. The temple of Handmán is
a building 26ft. square, with a flat roof,
terraced with white earth, open in front,
supported on rows of wooden posts.
The figure of the idol is placed against
the back of the wall in a little niche
facing the front; it is a rude imitation


354
Sect. I.
novrn 6.—-rfnvsn T0 AI_IMADNAGAB--LONi.
of a monkey covered with cinnabar.
This temple, as well as all the others,
is used as a lodging for travellers. The
temple was built at the expense of the
village, and cost about 200 rupees. The
temple of Bhairava is a tiled buildin ,
0 en in front, and meanly constructe .
he idols are those of Bhairava and his
wife Jogishwari, so disfigured by the
oil and cinnabar that have been thrown
over them, as to have no traces of fea-
tures. This idol is famed for preserving
persons and cattle bitten by snakes. It
is said many such patients have been
brought to this temple, and have all
recovered. The nim tree, which is used
against snake bites, is not permitted to
ow within the walls of the village by
hairava, as he takes all such patients
under his own care. The building cost
about 125 rupees. The Muhammadan
place of worship is 10 cubits long and
5 wide; but at present only the bare
walls are standing. The township con-
tains 568 inhabitants, with an extent of
laud equal to about 51- sq. m., which
gives rather more than 983- persons to
the sq. m. The number of houses is
107, in a few of which are more than
one family; and the proportion of per-
sons to each house is rather more than
5. There are 130 married men, 11 or
12 of whom have two wives; and the
total number of children is 203, which
gives only 1% to each family. The
lands of the township embrace a cir-
cumference of nearly 9 m,, comprising
3,669 acres, or about 5% sq. in., of
which 1,955 acres, or 2,410 bigas of
3,926,? sq. yds. are arable, and the rest
is common, and appropriated as pastur-
age. The boundary is marked merely
by heaps of stones, unploughed ridges,
etc., and is not apparent to an indif-
ferent person; but it is well known to
the community, and watched with the
utmost jealousy. The common land is
situated to the \V.N.W. and S.\V.;
generall elevated, rising in some places
into hi ocks, showing the bare rock;
in others it is undulating, with hol-
lows opening to the E., which carry
off the water in the rain season; and
the whole is more or less thickly strewed
with stones, from the weight of a few

ounces to as many hundred-weights.
The soil here is in no place more than
a few inches deep, under which is gene-
rally a layer of soft decaying, slimy
substance, covering a stratum of hard
basaltic rock. It yields a scanty cover-
ing of grass in the hot and cold season,
and is interspersed with stunted shrubs
and some wild vines. The arable land
lies chiefly to the E., the surface of
which is more level, and slopes gently
towards the Bhima, which it approaches
within a mile; and the soil is in some
places 6 or 7 cubits deep, and every-
where sufficiently so for all the purposes
of tillage, and is rich and productive.
A highway leads thron h the grounds
from E. to W.; and t ey are besides
intersected by roads, or rather foot-
paths, which are not confined by any
oundary, except where they cross fields
while under cultivation. At these times
a few thorns are temporarily stuck in
on each side of the path; and, as there
are no re ations for making or repair-
ing roads, they are therefore seldom
practicable for wheel-carriages, and are
never straight, but wind to avoid diffi-
cult places, and arc often only known
by the uncertain track of cattle and
travellers. Some small streams from
the high grounds unite, and form a
brook, which runs E. past the town
and through the arable land to the
Bhima. It generally ceases to run for
a month or two before the commence-
ment of the rains; but water is alwa s
got by digging a foot or two in a. san y
bed. There are 25 wells, said to be 3
fathoms deep, and the water within a.
few feet of the surface, 10 of which
are at present in use, and applied to
purposes of irrigation, and the others
are neglected from the poverty of their
owners. The water of the brook is alone
used for drinking; that from the wells
is considered better and was formerly
preferred, but it has been disused for
some years, as it was thought to occa-
sion guinea-worm, a complaint formerly
common and now said not to be so. A
few hedges of Euphorbium, or ever-
green, partially enclose some garden
ground a little to the right and left of
the town, which also contain some fine


Bombay.
355
RouTE 6.—PüNAH. To AHMADNAGAR-LONí.
trees–mango, tamarind, jujube, mimosa,
and India fig—that give a somewhat
picturesque appearance throughout the
£ to those spots. The rest of the
ands are wholly without enclosures,
so that after the crops have been reaped
—that is, from February till the end of
June—the whole has a most dreary
aspect, and presents nothing to the
imagination but barrenness and neglect.
The prospect, however, is different
during the other months. In the be-
inning of July the young corn, that
ad been sown by the drill, appears in
rows on the level and nicely cleaned
fields. The brown waste suddenly gets
a tinge of green, and the successive hot
and cold weather crops, and the neces-
sary operations of husbandry, give an
appearance of cheerfulness and industry,
until the approach of the hot season in
March, that is highly interesting.”
The description given of the vil-
lage economy by Mr. Coats, may be
compared with that in the Oriental
Christian Spectator, for June, 1845, p.
183, and may be condensed as follows:
The head man of the village is the
pdfil, who has charge of the revenue
and police duties. Sometimes two per-
sons share the pdfil's office, in which
case one takes care of the police,
while the other is called away by revenue
matters. The police pdfil or kdrbhdrí,
receives a warrant from the magistrate
of the zil'a, empowering him to super-
intend the village watchmen, to prevent
and trace robberies, to punish slight
misdemeanors by a few hours' detention
in the village châwadi, and to forward
weightier cases to the district police
officer. The revenue patil has no war-
rant, nor are his duties specified, though
they are well defined by immemorial
custom. He has to aid in bringing
waste land under cultivation, in esti-
mating the value of crops when re-
missions of rent are applied for, and in
collecting and forwarding revenue to
the mamlatddr, or district revenue offi-
cer. For the discharge of the above
duties, a percentage on the village
revenue is allowed, and a piece of land,
rent free, as also fees in grain and
straw, called ghugri, from every ghat-
kuli field, or field to the cultivation of
which no villager has an exclusive right.
Under native rule the patils had fees
called babi and watwal, the first being
betel, tobacco, vegetables, etc., for their
personal requirements, furnished by the
vendors in the village; the second,
money payments from merchants who
put up in the village. These have been
abolished by the English Government;
but the pdfil still enjoys certain hono-
rary distinctions. hen the yearly
settlement of revenue takes place, on
£ a rupiyah, he receives a tur-
an and betel from the settlement offi-
cer. Every married couple present him
with betel and invite him to dinner. At
the holi he sets fire to the holi; he leads
the procession at the festival of Siral
Shet, and his bullocks lead the cattle at
the feast of Polá on the new moon of
Shrávan or Bhādrpad, when all the
cattle are exempted from labor, deco-
rated, and worshipped. These distinc-
tions are called mdnpan, and are most
highly valued. Next to the pdfil, who
can seldom read or write, is the kul-
karni, or “accountant,” who assists the
patil in all his duties, writes the police
and revenue reports, and keeps a day-
book and ledger of all monies received
on account of rent. He is paid in
the same way as the pdfil, but his
emoluments are of course less. The
kulkarnis are brahmans, and though
nominally inferior to the patils, arro-
ate to themselves more importance, as
eing of a superior caste to the latter,
who are Marathas and Shudras. The
chauguld is the next village officer, and
may be regarded as the pâtil's deputy.
He carries the records, and sees that the
patil's directions are carried out. He
has a small payment from Government,
and ghugri, in fees, from the cultivators.
The balutadars come next, and are gene-
rally 12, divided into 3 oli or “classes.”
They are remunerated by baluten, i.e.,
a share of the gross produce of the village
fields. In the 1st class are the sutdr or
“carpenter,” the lohdr or “blacksmith,”
the tsdmhdr or “cobbler,” and the mahdr
or “messenger.” Iu the 2nd class are
the marig or “scavenger,” the parit or
“washerman,” the ndhdwi or “barber,”


356
Sect. I.
ROUTE 6.--PUNAH T0 Al_IliADNAGAB--LONl.
and the kuinbhdr or “ potter." To the
3rd class belong the gurav or “ verger,"
the sondr or “ goldsmith,” the muldqta’
or “schoolmaster,” and the _qra'mjo.si or
“village astrologer.” The mahdris the
bearer of all reports fronfthe pa'_til to
the district oflieer, and of all revenue
collections, when the pa'_til proceeds with
them to the district treasury. He as-
sembles the cultivators when required
for payment of revenue, or to hear a go-
vernment notice. He attends travellers,
guides them to the next village, and
carries an loads for a small sum. He
removes ead cattle from the stalls of
the cultivators, and gives their skins to
the owners if they be mirdsddrs or
“ hereditary proprietors.” Otherwise,
he keeps the skins himself; but in all
cases appropriates the flesh. He sweeps
the space in front of the village ehdwarji
every morning, and that in front of the
district kacheri, if there be one. In
fact, he performs all the works which
would prevent the oultivators from
attending to their fields. Low cunning
and foul wit are the characteristics of
the mahdr. He practises his cunning
on every traveller, but attempts to be
witty only among his companions. He
prides himself on his honesty; and
though he has ample opportunities of
abseonding with money, when conveying
the revenue collections to the district
kaakcri, no attempt to rob, much less an
actual theft b a mahdr, has ever been
discovered. e is ea er for knowledge,
and is much respecte by his own caste,
if he acquire it. He is passionatel
fond of dress, and tries much to look
respectable, but is sure to be detected by
his speech, if not by his appearance.
He is not enerally anxious to conceal
his descent, owever, except when absent
from his own village. The mahzir
women are more ignorant and degraded
than other females, and polygamy is
indulged in by the males to an extent
that would hardly be tolerated among
other castes. The huts of the mahrira
are always without the village walls,
and are disgustingly filthy and wretched.
They may be known by the bones of
animals strewn around them, and the
numbers of children who swarm out on
the heaps of filth to stare at a stranger.
The mahdrs use a peculiar salutatlon,
which is johdr, lit., “ O warrior l” The
principal duty of the mdrlg is to make
ropes for the cultivators, who cannot
touch the raw hide of which they are
sometimes made. Besides his baluteri, the
mdrig has the sweepin of the khaleri or
“threshing floor.” his is a very de-
graded caste, and one not suffered to
live within the village walls. Even the
mahrir is above coming in contact with
a mdrig, and to call a person “ a son of
a ma'1'zg,” is the grossest abuse. The
salutation used by the mdrig is haydt or
“life,” i.e., “ Live long!” The dut
of the gurav is to sweep the temples an
wash and anoint the idols daily. For
this, besides his baluteri, he appropriates
all the offerings made to the idols. If
the village be large, he usually attaches
himself to the most popular idol, leaving
the care of the rest to volunteers, who
are never wanting in this service. The
astrologer prepares the Hindu almanac,
and gives notice of fasts, festivals,
eclipses, &c., as also of the muhartta, or
“ auspicious moment” for ploughing,
sowing, marrying, &c. He olficiates as
priest at marriages and all rehgious
ceremonies. Besides his baluteri, he gets
a fee for every s eeific service. In the
month Shravan e makes a rich har-
vest, for then all persons perform the
ceremony of tirth every Monday before
breaking their fast. This ceremony
consists in drinking a little of the vva.ter
in which the great toe of the astrologer
has been dipped, which is thought to
purify from sin, and a paiaa’ is the least
that can be offered as a fee. The
muldrid is the only Mulganimadan village
oificer. He is the butcher, and no ani-
mal is eaten by the villagers unless
slaughtered by him. Besides his baluteri
he gets a portion of each animal slaugh~
tered. He keeps the village mas/‘id or
“mosque" clean, and makes the tdbzit
for the procession at the Muharram.
The next class of village officers are the
alutaddra, a term alliteratively formed
from bulutadér. These are the rdmoai
or “watchman,” the weskar or “ gate-
keeper," the koli or “ watermau," the
korbu or Muhammadan “messenger,"


Bombay.
357
nourn 6.-—1>1'mAn T0 sr_1M.n>NAesn—Lo1\'i.
and the ndikwddi or Hllldfi “messenger,”
the tdwhboli or “betel-man,” the mdii
mhetri or “head gardener,” the math-
pati or“ host of the javigams,” the _tha'kar
or “bard,” and the haldr or “musician.”
The caste of the rdmosis has been already
noticed (p. 300). As a professional
thief the rdmosi is much despised, and is
not suffered to live within the walls.
He is responsible for all thefts com-
mitted at night, and must either make
good the loss or trace the thief. He
receives from Government a money pay--
ment, or land rent free, or both. Be-
sides his baluteri he has a ortion of grain
from every grain-pit tliat is opened.
From the sho keepers he gets tobacco
and betel, and) wa_twaZ from merchants
who halt at the vill e. He is also
always invited to ta e his food at
marriages, and is sometimes presented
with a turban. The weakar is by caste a
mahdr.‘ He conveys the orders of the
pdfil to the malzdra, and is constantly
seen at the gate of the village or of the
chawadi with a lon stick in his hand,
and with a coarse b anket, his sole gar-
ment, wrapped around him. The ko_lz',
or “Waterman,” brings water when the
well or stream is at a distance from the
village, and supplies travellers with
water. He keeps the chawadi clean,
and lights the lamp in it every evening.
The korbu and na'ikwa'|_i¢' attend on the
pa'_tz'l and his assistants, and carry all
messages, which cannot be conve ed by
malzdrs. The tainboti supplies t e cul-
tivators with betel in the fields during
threshing time; for which he gets grain
and straw, according to mutual agree-
ment. The ma'l_i mhetri supplies the
villagers with vegetables during the
nine days fast before the Dasahra, and
gets food in return. He also supplies
travellers with ve etables on their paying
for the same. T e maflzpati, lit. “lor
of the hermitage," entertains all J an-
gams, who visit the village, in his math,
or “hut.” In consideration of this,
he is allowed to go about begging with
a yellow bag under his arm, receiving
alms, in the shape of grain from every
housewife. The Jailgams adore Shiva,
worship thelingam, and abhor brfihmans.
The (hdkar is a go-between for families
desirous of inter-marriage. During
marriages he repeats oetr , into which
the names of the bri e an bridegroom
are introduced. The holdr is of the
lowest caste of all. He is cobbler to the
mahdra, and performs on some instru-
ment at marriages, and at the threshing
floor during threshing time. His salu-
tation is pharmdn, “command me.” The
bulutaddrs and alutaddn are required to
amuse the people at the Holi, by getting
up what is called the Rddkd.” The
best looking of them is richly dressed
as a woman, and dances and sings to
another, who represents her lover. This
is a representation of the loves of
Krishnah and his favorite mistress Rb.-
dha. They also assist at surveys. The
goldsmith carries the inkstand,the cobbler
provides a pot of vhunam, and plasters
the boun marks, the maluirs drag
the chain, t e mdrlgs dig holes where
the boundary stones are to be laced,
and the rest place signals to guide the
surveyor. Such is the village system in
its integrit , but it is fast crumbling to
pieces, an interlopers are bein ad-
mitted on reduced payments to 0 the
work of the old ofiicers.
The kuinbis or peasants are a frugal
and patient race, Just in their dealings
with one another, but not scrupulous
about over-reaching government or
strangers. They are disposed to be
hospitable, but extreme poverty pre-
vents them being so. N o one, however,
would be in want of a meal among
them, and they are kind and polite to
strangers whose manners are not ofl'en-
sive. Only the children of the brah-
mans and richer kuinbia attend school,
so that the majority cannot read or
write; but they are minutely informed
of everything that relates to their own
calling, and many of them have a fair
knowledge of the histo of their own
country. They are low in stature, lean
and small, the average height being
5 ft. 4in., and weight 7 stone 101 lbs.
Their features are often harsh, and the
expression is rather sedate and ood-
humored than sharp, and is quite evoid
of any trace of ferocity. In a list of
the oldest men and women, 5 men are
stated to be upwards of 90 and one 96,


358
Sect. I.
noun". 6.—i>i'nnn so .u_nrAns1isan—xoii1ei’oii'.
and 7 females above this age, one being
99. Their ordinary food is grain, pulse,
greens, pods, roots and fruits, hot spices,
oil, milk, curds, and clarified butter; but
the are fond of the flesh of wild hogs
an of sheep. They are not prohibited
from drinking spirits, but it is thou ht
disreputable, and when they ind ge
they do it by stealth. The value of a
householder's whole furniture is about
£2; of his wardrobe, about £ 1. 18s.
In general they make a wretched ap-
pearance, wearing a scanty rag or pair of
drawers, and another rag tied round the
head. For their numerous superstitions
and ordinary mode of life the paper
above referred to must be consulte .
The Bhima, near Korigalon, is ford-
able in the dry weather, and crossed by
a fl ' g bridge in the rains. .
I1) Kariga"o1i.—This is but a small
village, and would be undeserving of
notice, but for the famous battle fought
at it. It is situated on the N. side of
lZl1€,BlllI1li1. On the S. side, before
reaching the river, on the right of the
road, is an obelisk, which marks the
spot where the ofiicers who fell in the
action were buried. It is of black
basalt, finely polished, and about 25ft.
high, and stands in the midst of culti-
vated fields. There are inscriptions on
it in Marathiand English. It was here
that the Peshwfals army encamped, and
they crossed the river to attack Capt.
Staunton’s battalion. The cemetery is
planted with cypresses and enclosed.
The following is the description of
this famous battle given by Grant Duff,
vol iii., p. 432 :—“ But when the
Peshwa commenced his flight to the
southward, Colonel Burr, hearing that
he meditated an attack on Pfinah, sent
off an express for the 2nd battalion of
the 1st regiment to reinforce himself.
The battalion, on the receipt of this ap-
plication, commenced its march from
Serfir on the last day of the year, at 8
o’clock in the evening. It consisted of
little more than 500 rank and file, and
was su ported by two 6-pounders, well
manne by 24 Europeans of the Madras
Artillery, under a sergeant and a lieu-
tenant. It was also accompanied by
300 of the newly raised irregular horse,

and the whole were under the command
of Captain Francis Staunton. Having
marched all night, 10 o’clock on the
morning of New deans Day, 1818,
Capt. Staunton reached the high ground
above the village of Korig€i‘o1'i on the
Bhimfi, where he beheld the whole of
the Maratha horse, consisting of about
25,000, on the op osite bank of the
river. He continue his march towards
the bank, and the Pesliwa’s troo s be-
lieved that he intended to ford, ut as
soon as he had gained the neighborhood
of the village, he immediately took post
in it. Korigao'i'i is a moderately sized
village, immediatel overhanging the
steep bank of the B ima, but, owmg to
the immense beds of the Indian rivers.
which are never filled, except during
the rains, the channel occupied but a
small part of the s ace between the
banks, so that the vil age was 50 or 60
yards from the water. There is a mud
wall which, at one time, probably sur-
rounded the village, but is now full of
large breaches on the side next the
river, and on the E. it is com letely
open. Most of the Peshwefs in antry,
in number about 5,000, had gone on in
advance to the Bhor Ghat, E. of Pfinah;
but on first descrying the battalion,
immediate orders were sent to recall
them. As soon as the arrived, 3 bodies
of 600 choice men eac , Arabs, Gosafiis,
and re ular infantry mixed together, ad-
vancedg on 3 different points, under
cover of the bank of the river, supported
by two guns, to storm the village. A
continued shower of rockets was at the
same time poured into it, and many of
the houses were set on fire. Captain
Staunton had selected a commanding
position for the guns; but, unfortu-
nately, the interior of the village was
not sufficiently reconnoitred, as there
was a strong square inclosure command-
ing most of the streets, of which the
enemy obtained possession, and whence
they could not be dislodged. The
village was immediately surrounded
by horse and foot, and the storming
party was su ported by fresh troops.
All access to t e river was speedily cut
off, Captain Staunton was destitute
of provisions, and this detachment


Bombay.
359
RouTE 6.—PóNAH To AHMADNAGAR-KoRIGA'oN.
already fatigued from want of rest and
a long night march, now, under a burn-
ing sun, without food or water, began a
# as trying as ever was main-
tained by the British in India. Every
foot of ground was disputed, several
streets were taken and re-taken, but
more than half the European officers
being wounded, the Arabs made them-
selves masters of a small temple towards
the E. side of the village, generally used
as a châwadi, where three of the officers
were lying wounded. Assistant-sur-
geon Wingate, one of their number,
got up and went out, but was immedi-
ately stabbed by the Arabs, and his
body cruelly mangled. Lieutenant
Swanston, who had two severe wounds,
had the presence of mind to advise his
remaining companion to suffer the
Arabs to rifle them unresistingly, which
they did, but committed no further
violence ; and, in the meantime, a
£ of the battalion under Lieut.
ones and Assistant-surgeon Wyllie,
arrived to their rescue, re-took the
châwadi, avenged the death of Mr.
Wingate, and carried their companions
to a greater place of safety, The suf-
ferings of the wounded became extreme
from thirst; and the men who con-
tinued the conflict were fainting or
nearly frantic, from the dreadful priva-
tion of water. Some of the artillery-
men, all of whom bore a very conspicu-
OuS £ in this glorious defence, pro-
posed to Captain Staunton that they
should surrender if terms could be ob-
tained. His determined refusal did not
satisfy them; but Lieut. Chisholm, their
officer, being killed,the enemy,encouraged
by this circumstance, rushed upon one
of the guns and took it. Thomas Pat-
tinson, adjutant of the battalion, lying
mortally wounded, being shot through
the body, no sooner heard that the gun
was taken, than, getting up, he called
to the grenadiers, “once more to follow
him, and, seizing a musket by the
muzzle," rushed into the middle of the
Arabs, striking them down right and
* Lieut. Pattinson was a very powerful
man and of gigantic stature, being 6 ft. 7 in.
high. His heroism at this battle was the sal-
vation of the regiment. He did not #
until the corps reached Servir, but died in
left, until a second ball through his
body completely disabled him. Lieut.
Pattinson had been nobly seconded; the
sipahis, thus led, were irresistible; the
gun was retaken, and the dead Arabs,
literally lying above each other, proved
how desperately it had been defended.
The body of Lieut. Chisholm was found
by his gun, with the head cut off;
Capt. Staunton judiciously took advan-
tage of the circumstance, by pointing
it out to the men, and telling them
‘such was the way all would be served
who fell, dead or alive, into the
hands of the Marathas, on which they
declared, “they would die to a man,'
and the conflict was resumed by all
with the most determined valor. Capt.
Staunton, Lieut. Jones, and Assist.-
surg. Wyllie were the only officers who
remained fit for duty, and manfully per-
severed in the defence. Their situation
towards evening was very hopeless; Capt.
Staunton had apprized Col. Burr of the
difficulties he labored under, and an un-
availing attempt from Púnah had been
made for his relief. As the night fell,
however, the vigor of the attack re-
laxed, and the men were able to procure
a supply of water. By nine o'clock at
night the firing ceased, and the village
was evacuated ' the Peshwá's troops.
Next morning the Maratha army was
still hovering round the village, and
Captain Staunton opened his guns upon
them as soon as he could see. They
appeared to draw off in the direction of
Púnah; they had heard of General
Smith's approach, who was hastening
forward with a very small force, in
hopes the Peshwa might be encouraged
to make a stand. Captain Staunton
not knowing of General Smith's ad-
vance, and having reason to believe the
enemy was in wait for him on the route
to Púnah, gave out that it was his in-
tention to proceed thither. As soon as
it was £ however, taking as man
of the wounded with him as he £
carry, he moved out of the village, at
first in the direction of Pánah; then
changing his route, he retreated to
great distress of mind, laboring under the
£ession that the regiment had been
*U60.


360
Sect. I.
noun-1 6.—i>r'11un T0 sI_m.in1uosn—snni'ni.
Seriir, where he arrived next morning,
with the loss of 175 men in killed and
wounded, of whom 20 were of the
small detachment of artille . Besides
these, about one-third of ltlyie auxiliary
horse were killed, wounded, and missing.
The Marathas lost 600 or 600 men, and
had the generosity on all occasions to
do justice to the heroic defenders of
Koriga’oii. During the conflict the
Peshwa sat on a rising ground on the
opposite side of the river, about two
miles distant. Gokla, Ape. Desai, and
Trimbakji directed the attacks, and at
one time Trimbakji entered the
village. Baji Rao frequently ex-
pressed his impatience, and asked his y
commanders ‘where were now their
boasts of defeating the English when
they could not overcome one bat-
talioni’ The Rae of same was with
the Peshwa, an having put up an
aftabgir or screen from the sun, the
latter begged he would put it down,
‘otherwise the English would send a
cannon ball through it.’ ” Of the eight
English oflicers present, Lieut. and A jt.
Pattinson died of his wounds, Lieuts.
Conellan and Swanston were wounded,
and Lieut. Chisholm and Assist.-surgeon
Wingate were killed. Capt. Staunton,
Lieut. Jones, and Assist.-surgeon Wyllie
esca ed unhurt.
(0 Ser-12r.—-This is the name of the
cantonment alone. The town is called
by the natives Ghod nadi, from the
river Ghod, on the r.b. of which it is
situated. Here are still the head-
quarters of the Pfinah auxiliary horse,
a most distin uished corps of ii-regulars,
who in Sindh, Kabul, and the Panjab
have done noble service. But formerly
there was a large force here until the
war with the Peshwa broke out in
1817, when the regiments were moved
to Pfinah, which thenceforth became the
principal station. It is remarkable that
an English oificer, Colonel Wallace,
who took Chandwad and Jalnah in
1804, is worshipped at this place. His
tomb has become a temple for burning
incense, presenting oiferingg and making
vows an rayers. The ev. R. Nes-
bit was tol in December, 1840, by an
_About 8 m. to the S. of Ahma

intelligent native, a palki-bearer by
grofession, that “ he had prayed to
olonel Wallace, and that his request
had been heard and granted."
(d) Al_imaa'nagar.—Passing through
Sopa, one of the earliest acquisitions of
Maloji Bhoiislé, Sivaji’s grandfather,
the traveller arrives at Ahmadnagar, or,
as it is simply styled by Europeans,
Nagar; Coming from Punah, the fort
is on the left on the N.W. The road
passes along the town to it. The fort
has a ditch 20ft. dee and 40 ft. broad,
with draw-bridges. his ditch is now
dry ; but formerly it was a great source
of malaria. Indeed, when Ahmadna-
gar first came into the En lish ses-
sion, when given up to t em y the
treat of Piinah in 1817, it was so un-
healt y as not to be habitable by Euro-
peans. This malaria, however, was
effectually removed, by draining, before
1829, when Sir J. Malcolm, then
Governor, removed thither the head
gruarters of the artille from Bombay.
his was done express y on account of
the health of the troops. The fort is
surrounded b a stone wall 30ft. high,
at one part o which is a slab with the
names of Ca tains Mackenzie and Hum-
berstone, an another officer, who were
killed at the storming of the place in
1803. The ditch was excavated out of
the rock, and the walls were built from
it. In the fort is the arsenal of the
artillery. The cantonment, which is a
remarkably fine one, is on the right of
the road coming from Pdnah. The
principal sights to be seen at this sta-
tion are the Fariha Bagh, about 1 m.
W. of the cantonments. Here is an
old Muhammadan alace in the centre
of an artificial tan , which has copings
of stone. The access is by a stone
causeway. This building has gone to
ruin. Some years ago there were silk-
worms in it; now it is in the pos-
session of Mr. Dickinson, a sugar ower.
agar,
is the tomb of $alabat K__liz’m, a ver
conspicuous object. It is a large dome
structure of stone, whitewashed. Its
shape is octa onal, and it has arches in
the faces. 1% is about 80ft. high, and
stands on a hill about 500ft. above the
plain. From the top there is a magui-


Bombay. RouTE 7.—PóNAH. To run NAR-HARICHANDRAGARH.
361
ficent view. . About 12 m. N. of Nagar
is a most picturesque ravine, in which
are several old tombs. This place is
much resorted to for pic-nic parties.
Nagar is a renowned station for hog
hunting. The best riders in the Bom-
bay £ have all gone through
an apprenticeship at Nagar; and game
is still abundant in the vicinity.
ROUTE 7.
FROM PúNAH. To JUNNAR (JUNíR oR
JoonEER) BY CHAKAN AND NARA-
YANGA’oN.
56 M. 5 F.
MILITARY AUTHORITY.--Officer Com-
manding at Púnah—Punah.
CIVIL AUTHORITY..—Collector at Pú-
nah—Punah.
PLACES. STAGES.
M. F. M. F.
From Pönah cantonment
Church to the Welles-
ley Bridge at the San-
Ill .....................
- - - 2 3
Pass cantonmentat Khirki }
to Dápari Bridge N.
end........ . .............. 40%
BHOJAPUR .. ... 3 2 9 6}
Músi ....................... 4 0
x Indrawani r. 230 yds.
wide .. ... 0 5
1 -------------- - 1 6
toWn ... 3 5
b. at CHAKAN............ 1 0 11 0
x Bám r. 40 yds. wide ... 1 5}
Chándolí .......... ........ 40
x Bhimá r. to Khair ... 04
Ascend a Khind............ 40
Top of Khind............... 04
(a) PENTH ....... 2 1 12 6}
Manchar .................. 57
x Ghur r. 230yds, broad,
to Kalam ............... 27
x Miná r. 100 yds. wide,
to NARAYANGA’ON 5 3 14 1
rwi ............. ........... 2 3
(b) JUNNAR FORT, W.
of town (Hence visit
Haricharidragarh)...... 6 4 8 7
56 5
The fort of Chakan has been already
described (p. 331). In the rains a fly-
ing bridge affords the means of £
the Indrawani river. The Bâm an
Bhima are crossed in small boats at that
season. Khair is a town of 1,000 houses
with a good bázár.
(a) Peith.—This place is remarkable
for a temple to Dharmardja or Yud-
hishthira, the elder of the 5 Páñdava
princes and the leader in the great war
'' the Kurus in the beginning
of the iron age, celebrated in the San-
skrit epic poem, called the Mahābhā-
ratah. The other brothers were Bhima,
Arjuna, Nakula, and Sakula. These
heroes are said to have dwelt a long
time at Wai during their exile from
Delhi, and in many other parts of the
Dakhan the scenes of their exploits are
shown. Dharmarāja is, however, also
a name of Yama, the regent of Hades;
and it is possible that this temple may
be £ to the latter personage, and
not to the Páñdu hero. Information
regarding this place is a desideratum.
(b) Junnar (Jooneer). — The road
after leaving Penth passes through a
'' undulating country. The Ghur
and Miná are crossed by boats durin
the rains. Junnar is a large walle
town and fort on the Kukri river. A
grant of money was made by the Govern-
ment in 1841, by which many improve-
ments were carried out in the town,
which is now in a flourishing condition.
Here commence the Ahmadnagar hills,
which run to Bhir in the Nizam's do-
minions, in lat. 19° and long, 75° 55'.
The fort, which is often noticed in
Maratha annals, was built by Maliku’t-
tujjar" in 1436. In May, 1657, Si-
vaji surprised and plundered the town,
carrying off £100,000 in specie, besides
other valuable spoil. About 13 m. to
the S.W. is the hill-fort of Sewnir,
which was granted in 1599 to Sivaji's
grandfather, Maloji Bhonslé. It was
afterwards £ by the Mughuls,
and in March, 1670, Sivaji's troops
were repulsed from before the place.
Haricharidragarh.—A visit to Hari-
chandragarh will alone amply repay the
traveller for taking this route. This
remarkable hill-fort is situated in the
Ghats to the W. of Junnar, and at
* Grant Duff, vol. i. p. 61. 16


Bombay. RouTE 8.—BoMBAY To MAHU (MHow). 363
ceroses. o: ' entrance is an in- PLACES. M ..":
scription. evond is an apartment - - - -W- - -
£ square, with cells on a: sides; Bombay Cathedral to
and still further a series of plain rooms, Sion Wellard............ 8 7
with separate doors and good tanks. KURLA "....; :::....... 22# 11 13
Beyond this hill to the E is another, Descend steep hill near
with hermitages and one arched chaitya, ...Will'::::::::: - 6 4
'the front of the arch richly carved with THANAH b. t.0.......... 46%. 11 24
figures and a wheel with £ The Koler (Colsette) Bandar 4 13
third set of caves is in a hill to the W. | x creek 292 yds. wide, to
of the fort. They are much dilapidated, ...}{Ql'R.",...;......: 1 0 5 13
and the fronts are destroyed. The tem: | BHIWADI (Bhewndy) 42+ 424
ple has a dome supported by octagonal | Pass 5 villages and, ×
pillars. On the fort-hill are many creek to Parga, b (bad
caves, but difficult of access. Among | . Water) .................... ? 0}
these is a large square room with a | DOHALA.... 203 11 1
lofty roof, painted in squares of flowers |x Sărmal; ".....: 5 0
or foliage, the colors still brilliant. A | x Bhringi, r, to SHAH-
fifth set is in a hill to the S. of the PUR, b................... 50 100
town, consisting chiefly of detached X Aura ". .......::::::::::: 30
cells, but with one temple with lofty Pass Puransira Ghat 2%
illars in front, and arched within. fur. long.................. 10
here is another series of caves at some Pass. Khirpoli, Aurá, Bír-
distance in the same hill, with a temple wadi to KARDI, 5...; 70 110
apparently unfinished. In the hill of x littler. Tallika, 15 yds
ewnir are many large tanks of fine wide ..... *:::::::::::::: 2 0
water carried under ground and pil- || Ascend Umbrāmali Khind
lared, which Dr. Gibson considered (steep and bad for 2 fur) 04
coeval with the temples below. Fur | Pass 6 small villages to
ther information on these caves and KASARA, at foot of
also on those in the Naná Ghat, first Tal Ghat.......... •- 853 11 14
made known by Col. Sykes, will be Ascend Tal Ghat to top... 50
found in a paper by that writer in the EGATRUBA, "......... . 33% 83%
Jour. of the Roy. As Soc. vol. iv., pp. WARIWADA, ......... 1443 144%
281–291. (a) NASHIK, b. p.o. ... 141 14 1
ROUTE 8. x Godāvari r. to Ath-
BoMBAY To MAHU, or MHAUwA ...gå'oh or Argá'on ... .. 613
(MHow), BY NASHIK, CHANDúR, AZAR ............ ...... 564 120
MÁLEGKNw (177M. 1 F.), DHULEN | PIMPALGA’ON, b....... 7 1 7 1
(DHoor.IA) AND THE SINDwA GHAT. WADALI.......... --- 10 5: 10 5*
351 M. 44 F. (b) CHANDUR or
MILITARY AUTHORITY.—To top of CHANDWAD, b.
Tal Ghát: Officer Commanding at ence visit the Fort and
Púnah—Punah. Thence to Chándúr: c)Caves of Ankai-Tankai).94% 943
Officer Commanding at Ahmadnagar– |Ascend Chándwad Ghāt
Ahmadnagar. Thence to Sindwa: to N. side ............... 5 6
Officer Commanding at Dhuleñ—Dhu- | x Saudána r. to SAU-
!eri. Thence to Mahu: Officer Com- DANA, b, ............... 8 4 14 2
*::: f T x 2 n. and Girná r. to
IVIL AUTHORITY.—To top of Tal d) MALEGAN - -
Ghât: Collector at T'i' £ to £: '' : 11 0
Thence to Chándár: Sub-Collector of | x Musam r to Darra-
Náshik-Nashik. Thence to Sindwa : *on ..................... 1 2
Collector at Dhuleń-Dhuleri. Thence Ascend Ghat............... 1 4
to Mahu: Resident at Indúr—Indur. CHIKALWAL, b. ...... 4 2 8 4


364
Sect. I.
norm: 8.--nomsu 'ro MAIIU (imow)—1v.ismx.






PLACES. srsors.
M. F. M. r.
J oregii and branch rd. to
Asirgarh ...... .. 4 6
x Borir. 4 7_
KRVI’ ................... .. 1 5 11 2
X large n. twice and other
n. to Bokra Bhao 6 0
Ascend Lallin Ghat_ to
(e)DHUI_.EN(Dhoolia) 6 2 12 2
X Panjré r. 1 0
Ngm) ...... ._m U" 10
Sarwar .......... ...... .. 4 0
(f) SONGYR, I2. . ...... .. 5 4 11 4
NILDANA, b. .......... .. 9 4 9 4
>< 2n. and Ta ti r. 2f.
broadto SI’ PUR, b. 11 0 11 0
>< 2 n. and Umranfir. twice
to (g) PALASNER, b. 16 4% 16 4}
x n. and pass large tank 3 0
Ascend Sindwa Ghat .... .. 1 0
SINDWA,b ............. .. 7 6% 11 6}
x small r. to J iimli Chauki 5 4
>< 3 small n. to BA’LSA’-
MAN ................... .. 5 3 10 7
x 3 n. to Jhilwana, 6.
(no supplies) .... .. 5 0
>< 2 n. and Dib r. to
THA’N 6 0 10 0
2 4
Barsarif or J alwa ....... .. 2 0
KURA PURA, b. (no
snpplies&water scarce) 5 2 9 6
>< Bokrar r. to Tikri .... .. 4 4
>< r. and 2 n. to Limrtini 4 4
x Satakn ................. .. 2 4
(h) AKBARPUR ....... .. 1 0 12 4
x N armada r. 1000 yds.
wide to Damangifon... 4 2
SIRSODA.. .............. .. 7 5% 11 7%
x 16 n. and Karam r.
160 yds wide, and pass
2 Ghats to KILNER’S
i) GHA'T or GIIA'RA
encc visit Mandu and
aves of Bagh), 10 3% 10 3%
M£mp1ir...... ..... 3 4%
x 13 n. and Km-am r.
35 yds. wide, Chambal
r. 16 yds. wide, and
Gambhir r. 40 yds. wide
to(k)MA'IlU(Ml10W)
apa.mmmmH“wo wig

351 4%

This road is part of the great trunk
road from Bombay to Agra, and is con-
sequently one of the most important in
India, though not the most mteresting
to the traveller.
From Bombay to Wasind, 49 m. 4 f.
(See Route 3, p. 304), and but 4m. 4 f.
short of Shahpfir, the tourist may travel
by the N.E. extension of the Great
Indian Peninsular Railwa . This dis-
tance is traversed in 3 ours and 5
minutes. From Wasind to the Rar-
toiidya (Rotunda) n., at the foot of the
Tal Ghat, a distance of 25 miles, the
works have been contracted for, and are
being carried on by J amshidji Dareb"1,
an enterprising Parsi, who has alrea y
executed “to the entire satisfaction of
his emplo ers" several important works
for this Cbmpany and for the Govern-
ment. The next section, from the foot
of the Tal ens; to Egatpura, a distance
of 9% miles, comprises the diflicult ascent
of the Ghat with several important tun-
nels. It will probably take four years
more to complete this part of the line.
From Egatpflra the line of the railway
diverges from the Route here laid down,
in an E. direction to Manmar, in N. lat.
20° 20’, and thence along the Gima
river to the Tapti, which it crosses be-
tween Sauda and Edalabad and then
passes into the Ni;:'1m’s territories and
between Burhiinpfir and Asirgarh.
From Kardi to Nashik the road is in
general very 'ungly, and in some places
the ndlda o er a serious impediment;
but all this will speedily be rectified as
the railway works pro ess.
(a) Ndshik (Nassuc ).—This town,
one of the most sacred to Hindus in
the W. Presidene , is said to derive its
name from the S r. misikd, “a nose,”
as, according to the legend, Lakshman,
the elder brother of Rama, here cut 011'
the nose of the giantess Sarpnakha, the
sister of Ravan. By some, the giantess
Hidimba is said to have been slain here
by Bhim, the second of the Paiidu
brothers. But tho real cause of the
sanctity of Nashik, in the eyes of the
Hindus, is its situation on the Godi-
vari‘ and vcry near the source of the
river, which is called Ganga by the
natives. To this it owes its numerous


Bombay.
365
noorn 8.—IBOMBAY T0 MAHU (nmow)-—Nis1amr.
wealthy temples, and the many families
of brahmaus, who aid in making up its
population of 25,000. At certain sea-
sons there is a great concourse of pil-
grims at this place, so many, indeed, as
to outnumber the residents. The pil-
grims proceed to Trimbak, which is
about 18 miles off, and to which a road
has been lately cleared. At Trimbak
the Godavari 1s supposed to rise. It
must here be admitted that a good
description of N ashik is a desideratum,
which it would be well if some traveller
would supply.
The traveller’s bangla is half a mile
S.\V. of the town, and close to the
European burying- round, which is
picturesqnely situate on an undulating
slope, with gardens around it.
The Temples.—The first thing to be
done is to visit the temples, in order to
reach which it is necessary to pass
through the centre of the town by the
high road, which leads straight through
it. There are some handsome houses
of brahmans with two or three stories.
These mansions are called wddde, and
in one of them the collector used to re-
side. The road slopes down to the
God-fivari, and the temples are built
along both banks of the river, and in
the river, on rocks. They are of black
basalt, and are all dedicated to Shiva.
Nevertheless, the Godavari itself is
especially sacred as the scene of Ramafs
first exploits in his expedition against
Rfivanafi Here is shown R-.'ima’s bath,
and the ashes of devotees are brought
from great distances to be scattered on
the holy waters. The river, indeed, is
said to have been the limit between the
empires of Rama, King of Ayodh a or
Oudh, and of Ravana, King of nka
or Ceylon. Hanuman, the monke who
performed such prodigies for ama,
was born in this locality; and here
Rama first beheld the beautiful ante-
lope, to gain whose skin for his consort
sea, he was, according to some legends,
first induced to enter 1tfivan’s territories.
An inquiry into the legends of this
locality, and a thorough examination of
the temples, ought to be undertaken,
for there is no doubt that, absurd as

the traditions are, they refer to some
ancient war which actually took place
between the invading A’rian nation and
the aborigines of S. India, and which
led to the introduction of the Hindu
religion into the regions S. of the Goda-
van.
Tlze Ervca/vations.—But the principal
objects to be seen at Nashik are the
cave temples, which are 6 m. distant
from the town. These were first de-
scribed by Colonel James Delamaine,*
who is called by Ritter, vol. iv. 1st Div‘.
p. 682, their discoverer. He visited
them in May, 1823. The first thing to
be remarked regarding them is the
rudeness of the execution, which is
thought by Ritter, Bird, and others to
be an indication of their great antiquity.
They are situated in a conical hill rather
more than 100 yds. from its base, and
face N .E. In a small recess T near the
extreme excavations on the right, which
are intended for tanks, are three figures
of Buddha, of the same character as
those in the Viswakarma cave at E'lura.
The entrance to the next cave is by a
verandah, raised on six colossi, in relief’,
and each bearing on his shoulder a
beam. This cave is about 45 ft. square,
and its fiat roof is entirel unsupported.
Small cells are excavate on both sides
at the further end, where a dab"-op pro-
jects from the wall. Next to this cave
is another of similar dimensions and
form. The next is also similar, but
has a raised platform at the further end
in the centre of which is a lingam.
The next cave in the series has a
vaulted roof with pillars on either side,
the dahgop at the end, and a large
arched window in the front face. It is
45 ft. long by 25ft. broad. The out-
side is ornamented with small dahgops
cut in relief. A flat-roofed excavation
of 60 ft. by 40 ft. follows, with cells to
the right and left. At the further end
is a verandah, the pillars of which have
their capitals omamented with various
animals. Beyond this is a recess with
a colossal fi ure of Buddh. There are
also two ot er figures holding up in
* Asiatic Journal, 1827, vol. xxiii., p.853.
28; Asiatic Journal. N.E., 1830, vol. iii. U. 275-
1' Bird’: Caves of W. mam, p.11.


366
Sect. I.
noon". 8.-—BOMBAY T0 MAHU (miow)—misnix.
their right hands the mdld, or necklace,
and in their left a flower and stem.
The principal idol is called Dharina
Raj a, a name of Yudhishthir, the eldest
Pafidu, who is much worshipped in these
parts, and to whom (p. 361) there is a
temple at Penth between N ashik and
Pfinah. In front of this ra e of
caves is a good platform, at the le end
of which are stairs or rather _notches in
the rock, which'lead to the Sutdfs or
Carpenters Cave. Here is a recum-
bent Buddha, near a group of smaller
figures. Several inscriptions in a large
character, nidely executed, are on the
pillars and other parts of the ex-
cavation.
The following description is extracted
from the Journal of the Bombay Asiatic
Society for January, 1850, vol. iii., p.
65, and is from the pen of the learned
Dr. John Wilson, President of the above
Society. It adds to what has been given
above some particulars of importance:
—“Nashik is an important place in
the Hindu traditions, particularly those
connected with the progress of Rama,
and there can be little doubt of its an-
tiquity, as it is mentioned by the name
which it now bears in Ptolemy/'s Geo-
_9raphy."' The principal excavations of
the place are situated on a hill, named
from them Pafidu Lena, about 5 miles
to the S.S.W. of the town, and over-
hanging the Bombay road. When we
first had an opportunity of seeing them
-—-on the 15th of March, 183l—we wrote
thus res ecting them :--‘ They are de
cidedl uddhist, and are very exten-
sive. hey scarcely fall short in interest,
taking them as a whole, of those of
Elephanta and Karli. The view from
them in the direction of the E. and
S.E. extends for many miles, and com-
mands the range of some very sublime
mountains of the trap or basaltic forma-
tion. The figures in the caves are in a
state of goo preservation. They are
those of Buddha. The princi al ones
have been newly painted and oiled, re-
paratory to an approaching Jfitra.
is nothing bra manical about them;
but as there are no Buddhists in this
part of India to come near them, the
GT6

brahmans, for the sake of their own
gain, encourage the Jatra.’ When we
next visited them-—on the 5th of June,
1840—we were particularly struck,
without altering altogether our opinion
of their Buddhist ori ‘n, with the com-
paratively modern c aracter of their
architectural forms, which, though of
inferior execution and less ornate, re-
semble those which have been called
the Indrasabhfi group at Elora. They
awakened within us a sort of mysterious
feeling, which we have only got solved
to a certain extent by the following
notice of the Indrasabha group * in Mr.
Fergusson’s interesting paper :—‘ The
sculptures to this grou have hitherto
proved a stumbling-bloc to antiquaries,
and no fixed opinion seems to have been
arrived at regarding them. Buddhist
the certainly are not, or at all events of
so egenerate a type as scarce to deserve
that name. Nor are they brahmanical;
and though they certainly resemble Jaina
sculpture more than any other, I do
not think they can be correctly ascribed
to that sect either, at least as we know
it. In no place in these caves do the
24 Tirthalcars appear, nor have the
cross-legged figures the symbols which
almost invariably accompany these wor-
thies, and are the only means of dis-
tinguishing one from another. If,
however, I am correct in supposing
Jainism to be a sort of compromise
between the other two religions, which
did not acquire its present form and
consistency till after the downfall of
the Buddhists, when they were joined b
most of that sect who had not embrac
the dominant religion; these caves are
doubly interesting as showing us the
religion in a state of transition from
one set of tenets to another.’ Of the
age of the Jaina faith we here say
nothing; but that the N ashik caves
must have originated after some revival
of Buddhism following the great victo
of the brahmans over that faith, an
that they belong to some system of
transition and compromise, we think
evident, not only from their architec-
tural character resembling those at
E’h'ira here referred to by Mr. Fer-
' Ptolemy‘: Geography. lib. vil.
' See p. 95 of this book.


Bombay.
367
noon: 8.—-BOMBAY ro MAHU (imow) uisnxx-
gusson, but from one of those inscrip-
tions forwarded to us by Dr. Gibson 111
1836, and also given, by Dr. Bird, from
a transcript by Mr. H. W. Reeves,
C.S. That inscription is in Sanskrit,
though not of the purest character, and
though Dr. Stevenson, who has cor-
rectly given the scope of it to Dr.
Bird, thinks from his interpretation
of its general astronomical date, it
points to a construction about B.c. 453,
it yet seems evident, from its contents
as noticed by Dr Bird, that it indicates
such a state of matters as may be sup-
posed to have existed when Buddhism
was becoming somewhat assimilated to
the rites of the Shaiva Margis.* It
refers very distinctly to the brahmans,
and several of their distant land proxi-
mate holy places, and to several of
their customs and legends. The follow-
ing notes refer to the details of the
N ashik caves, which have not yet been
fully enumerated. They commence with
the N. extremity, or that on the right
hand as the visitor ascends the hill:—-
1. Unfinished compartment, with a few
steps, but without figures. \Vorkman-
ship modern in appearance. 2. Cham-
ber with three 4 ft. figures of Buddha
seated with attendants, with chawaris
(fans made of the Tibet cow's tail), and
giving their blessing. 3. A square hall
of about 17 by 19 paces, with a dahgo
of about 13 ft. projecting from the wail
opposite the door, and with 18 monks’
cells at the sides. At the corners of the
dahgop are two figures with aha/waria.
In the front of this excavation are three
doors and pillars, one of which is broken.
They are supported by six iants (from
the breast upwards) ; an on their
capitals are the figures of the heads of
bulls, elephants, lions, owls, goats, and
of a man and woman. There are two
cells in the verandah. 4. A tank (P)
5. Four cells of monks, with two pillars,
and two pilasters in front, on the capi-
tals of which are elephants, cows, lions,
and antelopes. 6. Square hall like No.
3, with 16 cells, and a dahgop project-
ing from the wall opposite the entrance.
In the middle of the dahgop there is a
Buddha wearing a aha'Za', about 6§ ft.
" Bird's Historical Reamrchoa, p. 61.

high, and two female attendants like
dancing girls, frequently carved within
and without Hindu temples. On the
capitals of the six pillars at the entrance
are figures of elephants, lions, bulls,
and owls’ heads. Above the three doors
are large inscriptions. There are two
cells in the verandah, with inscriptions
above the doors. 7. An apartment
communicating with that last mentioned,
with three figures of Buddha, one of
which is on an elephant, one on a lion
with two small figures, and one squatted,
with lion’s head with curious ears be-
low. 8. Six cells. 9. A small room,
with Buddha seated in the centre, and
with two attendants, one of which is
destroyed. On the S. side are two small
squatted Buddha figures, su ported by
two men bearing a lotus. A ove there
is aroom nearl inaccessible, with three
figures of Bu dha, coarsely ainted by
the brahmans. 10. Room 0 about 14
aces by 9, with a dahgop near the
urther end. The roof is carved, as if
arched. There are 17 pillars, and two
of them have inscri tions. There is a
chawa/ri bearer near t e door. 11. This
is a room of about 16 by 9; paces. It
is reached by an ascent of a few steps,
leading from No. 10 to the right. It
has six cells; at the entrance of one
the brahmans have constructed apocry-
phal images of Ganesha and Hanumén.
This cell also contains a seat cut in
the rock of about eight paces in length.
It has two pillars, and two pilasters,
with figures, like some of those already
mentioned in the front. 12. Large col-
legiate hall of 29 by 17 paces, with a
platform, 4 in. high, for the teacher,
and a seat for the pupils running along
the excavation, except in front. ' There
are 21 cells off this room, but without
couches. One of them has a small in-
scription. Behind there is a com art-
ment, having an inscription in ont,
with two elegant illars, and two ilas-
ters, with a Bud a seated as i lec-
turing his disciples, and two ckobddrs
with chawaris, and two pages or dwarfs.
There are six pillars in the entrance to
this hall; but some of them are oom-
pletely worn away by the action of
water. There are two cells in the


368
Sect. I.
novrn 8.-—-BOMBAY ro MAHU (mHow)—cH.i1vnws1_J.
verandah, and an empty chamber above
to the left. 13. A large unfinished
semi-circular hall, with numerous figures
of Buddha, with attendants bearing elm-
waris. On the sides are cells with
Buddhas. . . . . In the front are five
tanks. For bathing? Is this a place
for morning ablutionsi These ex-
cavations may not be all of the same
age. 2. There is another series of ex-
cavated temples near Nashik. They
are on the lllll called Rérmshej, but ac-
cording to Dr. Gibson, they are com-
arativcly of little conse ucnce. 3.
here are one or two small (dhambers in
a pass on the road leading between
Nashik and Chandwad.”
The following is a translation by Dr.
Stevenson of the only one of the inscrip-
tions that has as yet been satisfactorily
made out :—-
“T0 the Perfect Being. May this
rove auspicious! By the son of King
shaparata, ruler of the Kshatriya
tribe and protector of men, the Lord
Dinika, resplendent as the morn, a gift
of a hundred thousand cows along with
the river Banasa, and also a gift of
gold, even by him the constructor of
v this holy place for the gods, and for the
brahmans to mortify the passions. There
is net so desirable a place oven at Prab-
hésa, where hundreds of thousands of
bréhmans go on pilgrimage to repeat
sacred verses, nor at the pure city of
Gaye, where brahmans go, nor at the
steep hill at Dirsapura, nor the serpents‘
field at Govardhana, nor at the city of
Pratisraya, where there is a. Buddh1sti-
cal monastery, nor even at the edifice
built by Depanakara on the shore of the
freshwater sea. This is a lace which
confers incomparable benc ts, wholly
leasing, well fitted for the spotted
deer-skln of the ascetic. A safe boat
has been provided by him, the maker
also of a free ferry, which dail plies to
the well supporte bank. By im also,
the constructor of a house for travellers,
and a ublic reservoir of water, a gilded
lion (seer?) has been set up at the
crowded gate of this
another also at the ferry,
at Ramatirtha. For lean cattle Within
the bounds of the village there are vari-
Govardhana,
and another

ous kinds of food, for such cattle more
than a hundred kinds of , and a
thousand mountain roots, given by this
bounteous donor. In this very Govard-
hana, in the radiant mountains, this
excavation was ordered to be made by
the same charitable person. And these
venerated by men, namel , the Sun,
Sukra, and Rdlm were in ‘t eir exnlta-
tion in that year when the ift was
bestowed. Lakshmi, Indra, an Yama
also consecrated it (in Vaishakha), and
the couch was set up on the most for-
tunate day of the month, Bhadrapad.
Thereafter, these, Lakshmi, Indra, and
Yuma departed with a shout of triumph
for their excellent easy car, sustained
by the force of incantatory verses, on
the unbrolfen road. When all their
retinue had departed and was gone,
there fell a shower of water before the
army, which, being purified and havi
departed and having passed over wi
the thousand cows, approaches the vil-
la e.”
ghfter leaving N fishik the Godavari is
crossed by a flyin bridge in the rains.
The road, it mustie observed, has been
much altered lately in the whole line
from N éshik to Mahu, and as yet there
is no return of the distances saved by
cutting through hills, and by the aban-
donment of circuitous routes to avoid
diflicult n-alas and streams, which are
now bridged over. In general, the
countr to Cliandwad is open and cul-
tivate near the road, but hills are not
far eff. The traveller is now entering
on districts which have been much dis-
turbed during the late rnutinies by
hordes of Bhils and other plunderers.
The first outbreak of the tribes took
place in September, 1857, and in the
eginning of October, the Superin-
tendent of the Ahmadnagar Police,
Lieut. Henry, was killed 1n a sharp
action with them near Shinar or Sinnur,
20 m. S.E. of Nashik. A desnltory war
ensued, which was gradually restricted
to the Satpura range, in which several
severe engagements took place.
Sea C'ha'ndwaz_l or 0ha'ml12r(Chandore).
—' is flourishing town contains a po-
pulation of nearly 10,000. On the E.
18 o range of hills, on the W. a culti-


Bombay. nonrn 8.—BOMBAY,T0 MAIIU (unow)—.unru mnxu. 369
vated- lain. According to the Tatum’,
a Hinru book, the country of the Ma-
riithas terminates with the Chandwad
Hills; and beyond, is Khandesh. One
of the grandest peaks of this range is
that which, overlooking the town of
Chandwad, is crowned with an ancient
fort, much mentioned in Muhammadan
and Maratha wars. This fort was cap-
tured, after slight resistance, by Colonel
Wallace, in 1804, who thus describes
it: “The hill on which it stands, or
rather which forms the fort, is naturally
the strongest I ever sa, being quite in-
accessible everywhere but at the gate-
wa , where alone it is fortified by art,
an where it is by no means weak.
There is but one entrance of any kind."
It was subsequently restored to Holkar,
but in 1818 surrendered to a detach-
ment of Sir Thomas Hislop’s army. It
is remarkable that Holkar is the Patil
of this place; and there is a fine build-
ing in the centre of the town, called the
Rang Mahal, where his family resided.
(c) Ankai Tank-ai.—-Twelve m. S.E. of
Chandwad are the Hill-forts and Caves
of Anlcai Tzmkai (Unkye Tunky),which
are in the Patoda Taluk, and are thus
described by Major Wingate. Anlrai
is a small deserted village, under the
Hill-fort of the same name. The for-
mer inhabitants were mostly on the fort
establishment, and on this being broken
up, had to proceed elsewhere in search
0 a subsistence. Behind the village,
about 100 ft. higher on the hill, is a
small series of seven or eight cave tem-
ples, all evidently Buddhist, and be-
longing to a late a e, like the Indra
Sabha at Ellora. hese caves all ad-
jvrain each other, and beginning from the
. end of the series are as follows.
1. A small cave, in the style of a Hin-
du temple, having the top supported
by four square, carved columns. The
shrine is empty, but the doorway is
sculptured with male and female figures,
most of them having something like a
human head in one hand, and the palm \
of the other hand turned outwards. The
outer doorway of the cave, communi-
cating with the front verandah, is "sculp-
tured over with small naked figures of
Buddha in a sitting posture. like those

of the Indra Sabha at Ellora. There
is an upper apartment to this cave, but
without sculptures. 2. A small but
rather elaborately carved cave. At each
end of the front verandah is a colossal
figure, but so covered up with rubbish
as to be only partly visible. That to
the W. is apparently a figure of Buddh,
with a amidical cap, or tiara, on his
head. he figure at the opposite end
is a female with curly hair, and Nubian
countenance. The male fi ure is sculp-
tured on a slab, which has been let
into the rock, possibly in consequence
of the rock itself not having been well
suited for sculpture. The mner cave
and shrine are very like a Hindu tem-
ple, but without sculpture. 3. Similar
111 arrangement to the two preceding
caves, i.e., consisting of a front veran-
dah, an inner temple, and an inmost
shrine. At the end of the front ve-
randah are a male and female figure
similar to those of No. 2. Both have
thick-lip ed Nubian countenances, and
the fema e has immense circular en-
dants in her ears, like the wooden ises
worn by some of the South-Sea Islanders.
The inner apartments are exactly like a
Hindu temple, the central ornament
on the roof is formed of small fi res
of musicians playin on various inds
of instruments, and in another circle
outside of the former, are figures
mounted on various sorts of animals.
On each side of the doorway to the
shrine are upri ht naked figures with
hands hanging own by their sides like
those in the Indra Sabha group at Ellora.
4. Similar in arrangement to the preced-
ing caves, but without sculptures. There
is an inscription in the Devanagari
character on one of the columns of the
front verandah, but apparently of a later
date than the cave ltself. 5. Similar
in arrangement to the others, but without
sculptures in the temple. In the tank
excavated underneath are two figures of
Buddh, naked and seated in the cross-
le gcd position, with hands on lap and
so es of feet turned upwards. The
features are Nubian. 6. Similar to
preceding, but with doorway sculptured.
7. The same, without sculptures.
Most of these cave temples have an


370
Sect. I.
RouTE 8.—BoMBAY To MAHU (MHow)—MáLEGANw.
upper apartment, probably for the ac-
commodation of the £ priest,
and a tank for water excavated under-
neath. They are nearly all on the same
plan, and apparently belong to one
period. The African type of the faces
of the sculptured figures is very re-
markable; though as in the caves of
Ellora, the noses and mouths have all
been more or less defaced. After visit-
ing the caves, the traveller may ascend to
the hill-fort of Tankai. The twin fort
immediately E. of it, is called Alka-
Palka, and the village below Ankai.
Both forts, however, are known to us
as Ankai-Tankai. The top of the hill
of Tankai must be about 1000 ft. above
the plain, and the ascent is very steep,
great of it being by steps cut in
the £ From the summit is a mag-
nificent view over a wide extent of
country. Bears and panthers may be
£, the sportsman. Major Win-
gate saw, from this hill, a large chitd
stealing after a herd of cattle which
Were # below, but the cattle were
startled, and evidently conscious of his
proximity, and did not give him an op-
£ of making his spring, though
e followed them up closely for about
half a mile to the very verge of the
bush jungle. The watershed of the
Tapti and Godavari systems of drainage
occurs at the pass of Ankai-Tankai, but
there is no £ ridge, the plain
being continued through the pass to the
other side of the hills. Almost 10 m.
further N. is a ridge, which divides the
Dakhan from Khandesh, and four or
five m. of rather rough country sloping
down to the plain of Khandesh. The
difference of level between the plain of
Khandesh under the hills, and that
above, is not great, and Major Wingate
does not estimate it at more than 150 ft.
The plain of Khandesh appears to be
everywhere covered with low bush jun-
gle, which is not really the case, how-
ever, as a great deal of it is cleared.
The appearance is occasioned by belts
of £ lining the fields, roads, and
water-courses, as well as by the con-
tinuous bush-jungle of the uncultivated
lands.
The river at Saudána has a sandy
bed, and subsides in a few hours after
rain. The Girná may be forded in fine
weather, and is crossed by a good ferry
and flying bridge in the rains.
(d). Malegdiw (Mallegaum).—This
town is the head-quarters of a brigade,
and has become large and populous.
The houses are built of : and in
general with flat roofs; though, in
some instances, the European mode of
building has been imitated by the
richer members of the native com-
munity. The town itself is clean, and
the principal streets are of a good
width. It is situated on the left bank
of the river Pársul, which is nearly dry
in the hot weather. This river joins
the Girnå about a mile and a half below
the town, and is now bridged over on
the Bombay road. The cantonments
are about a mile and a half N.W. of
the town, and are a mile in extent.
The Fnglish cemetery is half a mile
from camp, on the Surat road, running
in a N. direction. There is a large fort
on the river close to the town, built of
rubble, now in a somewhat ruinous con-
dition, but still very strong. A full
description of it will be found in
Lake's Sieges. It is occasionally used
as a prison. There is a guard kept over
the only entrance gate. An order from
the brigade-major is necessary for the
admission of visitors. As a specimen
of an old native fort, it deserves inspec-
tion. This fort was built by Naru
Shankar, about 1740; it is quadran-
gular, having on one face, and on half of
the two adjoining, the river; which, at
this place, forms a convenient curve.
On the opposite side is the town, which
nearly encompasses the remainder of the
fort by approaching the river at its two
extremities. There are two lines of
works. The inner, a square of about
300 ft., is of superior masonry, and
surrounded by a fausse-braye, 7 ft. high,
and a dry ditch 25 ft. deep by 16ft. wide.
The outer line is built of mud and
stone, having flanking towers and ap-
proaches within a few yards of the
town on one side, and of the river on
the other. It is only of moderate ele-
vation; but the inner fort is 60 ft. high
with a terre-pleine 16ft. wide, to which


Eombay.
371
RouTE 8.—BoMBAY To MAHU (MHow)—DHULEN.
there are no means of ascent except
through narrow covered staircases of
difficult access. On the 16th of May,
1818, this place was attacked by Lieut.-
Colonel Mac Dowell, and the Arab gar-
rison made a desperate defence, an ac-
count of which will be found in
Blacker's Mardtha War, p. 325. The
garrison numbered only 350 men, and
the besiegers amounted to 2,630. In
the 25 days of the siege the English
lost 209 : and wounded, including
officers.
After leaving Málegáñw the country
is open and very barren. The Musam
river is now bridged, as are all the nálás
and rivers to Chikalwal. This village
lies in a valley someway off the road to
the right; the traveller's banglá is be-
tween the road and village. There is
a large tank 3 m. S. of the town.
About 4 m. from Chikalwal, at the vil-
lage of Jorega, is an extremely curious
Jain temple, small but very ancient, put
together without mortar. It is com-
posed of stones laid together, the outside
being minutely carved. The inside is
equally curious, and altogether it well
deserves a visit. The traveller's banglá.
at Arvi is about 100 paces from the
road on the left hand side. The Lallin
Pass is very beautiful, commanded by a
hill fort now in ruins. This was long
the resort of a gang of freebooters who
came from the N. and carried on their
trade with impunity, and who may have
been the very gang of whom Lutfullah
(p. 113) speaks. -
(e) inhuleri (Dhoolia.)–This little
town is situated on the Pānjrá river.
It is the civil station of Khandesh, which
should, however, be removed to Mále-
gáñw, by which a great saving in troops
would be effected and greater security
ensured to Europeans. The place has
been much improved of late by the resi-
dent officers under the instructions of
Government. Two tanks have lately
been constructed S. of the town. The
traveller's banglá has been recently
erected on the bank of the river close to
the town, which, being, situated in a
hollow surrounded by hills, is most un-
healthy. - -
(f) Songir is a small village on a hill.
The traveller's banglá is close to the
road on the right. The fort is much
dilapidated, and not worth a visit. It
was here, however, that during the in-
vasion of Khandesh in 1802, by Holkar,
the Peshwá's Mámlatdār drove off the
invading army by sending a body of
troops to the rear and giving out that
the British were at hand. Nildana is a
small hamlet. The traveller's banglá
is near the road. The Tapti, which
flows between this village and Sirpúr, is
easily crossed at a place called Sámalda,
except during the rains, when travellers
are ferried over in rough native boats.
Sirpir is the residence of a Mámlatdár.
The traveller's banglá is close to the
road on the right. The Umrānā or
Arnàwati river is easy of passage, and
is dry during some months. Four m.
E. of Sirpiir, and off the line of road, is
the fort of Thálner (Talneir), which is
worth a visit. This strong fort is situated
on the E. bank of the Tapti river, from
which one of its sides rises. The three
other sides are surrounded by a hollow
way varying in width from 100 to 150
yds. The walls rise to the height of
about 60 ft. above this hollow, and the
interior of the fort has the same eleva-
tion. There is only one entrance, which
is on the E. side, and is secured by five
successive gates, communicating by in-
tricate traverses, whose enclosures gra-
dually rise to the height of the main
wall. A winding ramp, interspersed in
some places with steps, ascends to the
ates, to the terre-pleine of the rampart.
he ground immediately surrounding
the hollow way is cut by deep ravines,
which run into it. The intermediate
parts are crowned with clusters of houses,
which form the town of Thälner, distant
from the fort about 50 yds. On the
27th of February, 1818, Sir. T. Hislop
captured this 1. and put the whole
garrison to the sword, hanging the
Kiladár to a tree on the flagstaff tower.
The excuse for this severity was a sud-
den attack made on the storming party
while a conversation about terms of sur-
render was going on. Colonel Murray,
during the conference, pushed into the
last gate with Major Gordon and some
Grenadiers, which they certainly had no


372
Sect. I.
acorn 8.—nounsv ro HAHU (sn1ow)—e11.iaA.
right to do. The garrison, mistrusting
their intentions, fell upon them, and the
result was a loss to the British of 25,
among whom were 7 officers.‘ There
are a number of Mubammadan tombs
a quarter of a mile from the fort, three
or four of which are of a lar e size.
One is especially remarkable or the
beautiful way in which its exterior is
carved. It is of octagonal shape. On
the front of the largest is a Persian
inscription, which states that 100,000
rupees were expended on the structure.
There are a great many smaller tombs
of Muhammadan women.
(9) 1’a'la.mer, a mere hamlet, is close to
the Satpura mountains. The traveller’s
bangla ad'oins the road. Not far from this
the travel er crosses the British boundary,
a portion of the country here having
lately been made over to Sindhia. He
then enters the Sindwa Pass, throu h
which a road has been lately made. Tn
former days this was a dangerous spot,
being close under the stronghold of a
robber chief named Gumaniah N aik.
His fort is situated on one of the highest
hills on the left of the Pass, and all
travellers had to payblack mail. Half-
way through the ass is a mud fort
called Bargarb, where was formerly B
post of irrerrulars for the protection of
the road. The fort oi’ Sindwa has been
latcly made over to Sindhia. It is not
worthy of :1 visit. The description of it
will be found in Sir J. Malcolm's Cenlral
India. The Bhils in this part of Khan-
desh have always been marauders, but
after the dcsolating invasion of the pro-
vince b Holkar in 1802, and the famine
which ollowed it next year, the excesses
of this tribe rose to an intolerable height.
In 1825 the British Government raised
a Bhil corps, and appointed to its com-
mand Cuptain, now General, Sir James
Outram, who shortly after the corps had
been ‘raised attacked a very numerous
horde of robbers who had just plundered
the village of Barwadi. After a severe
action, Captain Ontram, finding it im-
possible to pursue the Bhil robbers from
hill to hill, feigned a retreat, and thus
drew them within reach of the bayonet.
The result was that the chief and most
*1‘ Blaclce-r'a Mardlha War, n.§29.

of his followers were killed, and the
horde was entirely dispersed. On the
return of the Bhil corps to camp the
Sipahis of the regular army received
them with acclamations, and presented
them with betel. From that day the
Bhil corps acquired the honorable statue
which they have ever since maintained.
Ca t. Outram with admirable firmness
an sagacity continued the pacification
of the province, and his efforts were
nobly seconded by Capt., now Ool., Wil-
liam Morris, who succeeded to the con-
trol of the country.
(la) Al:6arp:2r.—At this place are the
remains of some fine Muhammadan
buildings, which deserve to be visited
and described.
(1') Gluira.-—The traveller will do
well to make a detour from Ghara, in
order to visit the magnificent ruins of
the ancient city of Mandu, which is
distant about 20 m. to the N .W. It is
situated on part of the Vindh a ran .,
at an elevation of 1944 ft. a ove t e
sea. This city, according to'Malcolm,
was built in a.n. 313, and was the
capital of the Hindu rajiis of Dhar.
According to Firishtah, it was the seat of
govemment of Dilawar Eran Q61-i,
the first king of Mhlwah, who reigned
from 1337 to 1405. His son, Hfishang,
completed the fortifications of the city.
In 1526 it was taken by Bahfidur Shah,
king of Gujarat, and was conquered by
Akbar in 1670. Akbar’s name and the
date of his visit, are inscribed on a
marble tablet, over one of the princi
gates. A good description of the rums
of this celebrated cit , as they at pre-
sent exist, is still a csideratum. Ac-
cording to Malcolm, the circuit of its
ramparts is 37 m., and in this vast space
are whole streets of ruins, and the re-
mains of splendid edifices overgrown
with creepers and brushwood, in which
tigers and other wild beasts have their
lair. It seems almost incredible that a
city, which in 1570 was named Shadi-
abad, “the abode of happiness,” and
was described by the Franciscans, Adol-
pho Aquaviva, Antario de Monserrati,
and Francisco Enriqucs, deputed in the
above year from Goa to the -Mugl_1ul
government on a religious mission, as


Bombay. ROUTE 8.—B0lIBAY T0 MAIIU (nnow)-cavns or mien. 373
one of the largest cities in the world,
with handsome buildings and thronged
streets, should now be so utterly deso-
late. The greatest and least in'ured
of the ruined buildings is the :’im’i
Masjid, or Cathedral Mosque. Its area
is raised several 'ards above the ground
and is reached y a large and hand-
some flight of stairs: its interior is open
to the heavens. The ound-plan is a
square, and on each si e is a low deep
gallery supported by several ran es of
enormous pillars. The size 0 this
building is great, so that, notwithstand-
ing some degree of heaviness and incle-
gance, its appearance is very striking.
Next in importance is the mausoleum
of Hiishang Qifiri, King of Malwah,
who raised this city to great splendor.
It is built, in massive style, of white
marble, and is situate in a square court
from which proceeds a deep gallery,
supported b columns elaborately sculp-
tured; an in a chamber roofed with
vast slabs is the sarcopha us of the
Sultan. The ruins of the pa ace of Baz
Bahiidur, King of Malwah, and of many
other gorgeous buildings, strew the
ground to a great extent.
- The Caves of Bdgh.-—Another place
of much interest is Bagh, which may be
reached b a detour of about 50 m. to
the E. T e following description of the
caves is given b Capt. F. Dan erfield,
in the Tram. 0 the Lit. Soc. o .Bomb.,
vol. ii., p. 197 :--“ The caves are 4, one
only of which, the most N., can, how-
ever, be said to be in a state of pre-
servation. Immediately after crossing
the river, you ascend up the slopin
part of the hill to the first or most cave by a flight of 70 rudely-formed
stone steps, and arrive at a small land-
ing-place overhung by the hill. This
bears the marks of having once been
formed into a regular verandah sup-
ported by columns, the roof plastered
and ornamented, as shown by its fallen
fragments. The front of the cave still
retains this plaster. At each end of
this verandah is a small room containing
small ill-covered figures, evidently of
modern workmanship, that on the left
bein" a female, much mutilated; that
on the right, a bad representation of

Ganesh. You enter this cave at the
centre by an unornamented rectanggilar
doorway 5% ft. wide. There is a o a
similar one to the right, but much
choked with the fallen a ents of the
roof. The cave derives its sole light
from these two entrances, consequently
to examine its remoter parts the aid of
torches is necessary; and as ti ers,
which abound in this country, ave
been found in the interior of the caves,
this precaution becomes the more requi-
site. On entering the eave you are im-
pressed with its gloomy grandeur : it is
not, however, till you have been a few
seconds in it that you perceive its great
extent. The open area of this cave is a
re ar square measuring 84 ft. each
si e. Its height is 14% ft. The roof
is supported by 4 ranges of mass
columns; the 2 centre ones being roun ,
those on the right and left, square at
the base, but at the heights of 5 and
8 ft. formed into hexagons and dodeca-
gens. The roof, but no other part of
this cave, bears the marks of having
been once ornamented with paintings in
square compartments of about one foot.
From the frequent smoke of torches,
however, suflicient of the design is not
at present apparent to admit of any
judgment of its merits. Passing be-
tween the centre range of columns to
the end of the cave, you enter an oblong
recess or verandah, measuring 20 ft. by
12 ft., open in front towards the cave,
and suplported by 2 hexagonal columns.
In nic es on the remaining 3 sides of
this apartment are carved in bold relief
several figures. The centre, or female
figure measures 9; ft.; and the male
ones to the right and left 9ft. Those
on each side the doorway measure also
9 ft. From this recess or veranduh you
enter in its back part, through a small
doorway, an inner apartment measuring
20 ft. by 17 ft., in the centre of which,
out out of the solid rock, is what the
natives term ‘The Churn,’ being a
regular hexagon of 3 ft. 3 in. each side,
surmounted y a plain dome, reaehin
nearly to the roof, to which it is joiiieil
by a small square ornament. Around
the large cave also, on 3 sides, are
small apartments culled the duh-dm, or


Bombay.
375
I I I I I I I
ROUTE 9.—'SATARA TO BIJAPUR'—BIJAPUR.
and female figures of a red or copper
and Major Harris, of the lst Light
color; the upper parts of the whole of Cavalry, was killed at the same time by
which have, however, been intentionally
erased. Such of the lower parts (the
legs and feet) as remain show them to
have been executed in a style of paint-
ing far surpassing anything in the art
which the natives of India now possess.
Leaving this cave by the right hand
doorway, and proceeding a few paces
farther along the hill you enter a fourth
cave nearly similar in dimension and
arrangement to the second. It has not,
however, been finished, and is falling
fast to decay. There appears at the
extremity of this cave the rude com-
mencement, or, perhaps, the ruins of a
fifth. It is not sufficiently accessible on
account of the large fragments of fallen
rock to admit of any correct judgment
of its former state.”
(k) Mahu, or, Mhau/wa (Mhow).—-The
town of Mahu is situate on the Gambhir
river, on an eminence lgm. N.W. of the
cantonments, and 13 m. S.\V. of Indfir,
the capital of Holkar’s dominions.
Mahu may be regarded as the frontier
station of the Bombay Presidency, and
the rest of the route to Agra therefore
belongs to Bengal. By Article VII. of
the treaty of Mandesar, which was con-
cluded in January, 1818, between the
British Government and Malhar Rao
Holkar, it was agreed that a British
force should be stationed at Mahu, and
a. considerable body of troops have con-
sequently been evcr since stationed
there. The cantonments have all the
appearance of a European town, having
a church with a steeple well situated on
an eminence, a spacious lecture-room,
an excellent library, and a theatre.
The elevation of these cantonments
above the sea is 2,019ft., and the cli-
mate is considered salubrious, though
the jungles on the road hither from
Malegfifiw used to be accounted so un-
healthy as to be quite a barrier; this,
however, has of late years been much
remedied. To the sportsman, Mahu has
ever bqen a favorite station. Here, on
the 1st of July, 1857, the 23rd Regt.,
Beng. N. I., rose in mutiny and mur-
dered their commanding ofiicer, Col.
Platt, and his adjutant, Capt. Fagan;
his own troopers. The mutineers then
proceeded to Indiir, and plundered the
treasury of £100,000. They were then
joined by the 5th Regt. of the Gwalior
Contingent, moved upon Agra and took
a leading part in the subsequent opera-
tions of the rebels. i
ROUTE 9.
FROM SATARA TO Biurfin.
120 M.
MILITARY Au'ruoni'rY.—Ofiiccr com-
manding at Satara~Su'ta'ra'.
CIVIL AUTHORITY. —— Commissioner
at Sz'itai‘é.~—S¢2tu'rd.


rmcns. sue:-:s.
11. F. M. 1‘.
S-{itéra to Anga 9 0
PUSASESOL b. .... 13 0 22 0
VITTA 16 0 16 0
PULSHEA 12 0 12 0
NAGAZ .. 10 0 10 0
JAT......... 30 0 30 0
KABI'RI' ................... .. 15 0 15 0
(a) BUAPUR I2. ....... .. 15 0 15 0
120 0
All the small villages on this road
are so bad, that it is diflicult to choose
between them, and so ill-placed, that it is
impossible to divide the marches equally.
At Pulshea you cross from the semis
territory into villa es belongin to the
Patwardan In’ am firs, isolate In’am
villages, and villages belonging to the
Belgaiiw Collectorate. At J at the sepa-
ration between the Marfitha and the
Kanarese languages is distinctly marked.
From this point also distances are mea-
sured by the Sultan Kos, which is at
least 3 m. At Tikota, 13 m. W. of the
Makkah gate, is a. large building, the
mausoleum of Malik Sandal, a courtier
of the time of the fifth and sixth kings
of Bijapfir.
(a) Brjjapar-The Su6urba.—Before
entering Bija fir from the W., the tra-
veller passes t rough Torwa, a deserted
suburb, in which are whole streets of
ruins, without one inhabited house. The
road then issues in an open space before
the walls of the city, which extend 8 ni.,


376
Sect. I.
I I I I I I I
ROUTE 9.—sirsai TO BIJAPUB—-IBIJAPUR.
measuring by the counterscarp of the
ditch, and though decayed in man
places, there is not a complete breac
in any part. The defences of Torwa
were constructed by Ibrahim ’A’dil Shah
II. in the 24th year of his reign, A.D.
1604, when he removed the seat of
government from the citadel of Bijapiir
to this place. This removal was made
in absurd compliance with the sugges-
tions of the astrologers, who pretended
that a longer residence in the citadel
would be unlucky. As if in mockery
of their predictions, the new capital was
plundered by Malik Ambar in A.D.
1621, whereupon the court returned to
the citadel, and when Aurangzib took
Bijapfir in s.n. 1686, Torwa was‘
“quite depopulated, its ruined palaces
alone remaining, with a thick wall sur-
rounding it, whose stately gateways
were falling to decay." The other
suburbs are the Shalipiirah on the W.,
the Yeimc iirah adjoining it, and the
Zuhrfi or bréhim Piirah to the S. of
the above. The impression produced
by the first appearance of the city is that
of a splendi and populous metropolis,
from the innumerable domes, spires,
and lofty edifices, which meet the eye;
and though the road up to the walls
leads through ruins, the illusion of an
inhabited city is still preserved, by the
state of the defences, the guns mounted
on them, and the guards stationed at
the ates, of which there are 6,—the
Mak'ah, the Shahpiir, the Bahmani,
the Piidshfihpur, the Allahpiir, and the
Fath. B this last Aurangzib entered
in triump when he captured the city,
whence its name of “ Gate of Victory.”
There were formerl a ditch, covered
way, and glacis on t e E. face, but the
works are now entirely obliterated. The
rampart, contrary to the usual custom
in native defences, is extremely broad.
On entering, the illusion of a living city
is at once dissipated, and the mind is
struck with the contrast of the admira-
ble preservation of the numerous build-
ings eonsecrated to the dead and the
crumbling decay or total destruction of
those once throngcd by a swarming
population. Jungle has shot up and
' Sc0f!‘s Firiahlah, vol. ii.. p. '73.
almost obliterated streets and market-
places, while tombs and mausoleums still
stand uninjured, and show that the hand
of man is even yet busy in protecting
them.
The Ibrdliim Rogah or Mausoleum of
Ibrahim Shdh II. is the first object that
attracts attention on approaching the
city from the W. by the Makkah te.
This magnificent building is said to ave
been erected by a Persian architect. It
is enclosed by a strong wall with a
handsome gateway, and stands on an
elevated platform, on the \V. of which
there is also a small but very beautiful
mosque. This mosque is 105 flz. long
and 66 deep, and to the E. presents a
front of seven graceful arches. In the
open space between it and the Ibrahim
Rogah is a ruined fountain with a reser-
voir. On each of the four sides of the
Rozah is a tasteful colonnade, open at
the side by seven arches, and forming a
verandah of 15 ft broad round the whole
edifice. The pavement of this colon-
nade is slightly elevated, and the ceiling
is exquisitely carved with sentences of
the I_(ur’£in, enclosed in compartments,
and interspersed with wreaths of flowers.
The letters were originally gilt, and the
ound is still a most brilliant azure.
n some places the gilding also is still
remaining. The border of every com-
partment is diflerent from that of the
one adjoining. The windows are formed
of lattice work of Arabic sentences cut
out of stone slabs, the space between
each letter admitting the light. This
work is so admirably executed that Col.
Sykes declares there is nothing to sur-
pass it in India. Above the colonnade,
and outside the building, is a magnifi-
cent cornice, with a graceful and lofty
minaret of 4 stories at each corner, and
between each 2 such minarets 6 smaller.
From a second enclosure of 4 minarets
on each side rises the dome, the plan
of the building resembling the Gol-
l(0l1d€l- tombs see p. 85 . The ceiling
of the Rozah is quite at, being made
of square slabs without apparent sup-
port, and it is remarkable that this
tomb, and its adjoining mosque, are the
only stone edifices in Bijapiir of this
description. The Ibrahim Rogah was


Bombay.
377
I I I I I I I
nonrr. 9--——SATARA 'ro BIJAPUB—-BIJAPUB.
completed in 12 years from the time
when it was commenced, and is de-
cidcdly the most chaste in design and
the best executed of all the works left
by the kings of Bijapfir. From the
insrriptions it appears that it was origi-
nally intended or the mausoleum of
111/ 0' Sulgdn or Tuji Jahdn Bigam, wife
of Ibrahim Shah IL, daughter of Sai 'd
’Abdu’r-rahman, and mother of 111111-
hammad Shah, the sixth king The
following is a translation of the mscrip-
tion over the N. door. “ Heaven stood
astonished at the elevation of this build-
ing, and it might be said that when its
head rose from the earth, another
heaven was produced. The garden of
Paradise has borrowed its beauty from
this garden, and every pillar here is
aceful as the cmfiess tree in the gar-
en of purity. angel from heaven
above announced the date of the struc-
ture by saying, ‘This building, which
makes the heart glad, is the memorial
of Taj i Sul_t;én."’ The last words 've
the numerals A.E.1036=A.D.1626. l‘he
incription over the S. door is as fol-
lows:--“In pomp like Zfibaiza and in -
magnificence like Balkis, she was the
ornament of the throne, and crown of
chastity, and when she passed to the
capital of Paradise from this terrestrial
abode, which is but dust, when I asked
an old man the date thereof, he
answered me saying, ‘Taj i Sultan is
among the cople of Paradise.”’
The wor give .s.rr.1043 =A.D. 1633.
On the same door is also inscribed,
“ Malik Sandal, by expending 150,000
lums,* with 900 more, caused this tomb
to be finished after great exertion.” It
was erected according to order for Taj i
Sultan, at whose purity even Eden was
astonished. When Aurangztb besieged
Bijapfir in 1686 he took up his quarters
in the Ibrahim Rogah, which received
some damage from tho Bi'apf1r guns.
These injuries were partia y repaired
by the Raja of same; but it is only
a few years ago that the edifice was put
in its present perfect state, at the ex-
pense of the English Government. The
onl other building in the suburbs espe-
cially deserving of notice is the’1’dgt.h,
' Each hun = Bi rupees.

which was built by Aurangzib. The
Rozah is on the right of the road; _on
the left the ground is covered with
tombs, some half finished, and some in
ruins. The country all around the walls
is dotted with similar tombs.
B;']'ap1Zr——T/le Cit;/.—~A description
of Bijapfzr has been given by Captain
Sydenham in the Asiatic Researches,
vol. xiii., p. 432, 4to. ed., and also by
Colonel Sykes in the Trams. of the Lit.
Soc. of Bombay, vol. iii., p. 55. But the
following account is for the most part
taken from the paper by Dr. James Bird,
in the Jour. of the Bom. As. Society, for
May, 1844, and from the notes of a much
more recent visitor. The town is en-
tered by a small ate made by Gokla,
who changed the akkah gate into a
kacheri and treasury still in use. The
first thing deserving of notice near the
Makkah gate is the celebrated gun called
the Malik-i-Maiddn, or “Monarch of
the plain,” said to be the lar est
picce of ordnance in the world. tis
mounted on a round tower called the
Bur/-1'-Skarzah, or “Lion Tower," from
being ornamented with two lion’s heads
in stone. The following inscription on
the right hand of the steps up to the
tower gives its date: “Durin the reign
of the victorious king ’Ali ’A’ il Shah, to
whom, by the favor of Murtaza (’Ali),
God granted a distinguished victo ,
this bastion was in five months ma e
firm as a mountain, throu h the fortu-
nate efforts of Ma'lis Shir . At which
time an angel, in clight, gave the date
of the ycar, saying that the Sharzah
bastion was without an equal.” The
last words make A.H. 1079 =A.D. 1668.
This celebrated gun is made‘ of gong
metal, which is smooth, and admits of
a high polish. On being struck it sounds
like a bell. Its dimensions are as fol-
lows :——Diamcter at breech, 4 ft. 10 in. ;
at muzzle, 6 ft. 2 in. ; diameter of bore,
2 ft. 4} in. ; of touch-hole, fin ; length,
14 ft. 3 in. The following are the in-
scriptions upon it :—“There is no God
but God, and none bcsides Him."
“ Ab1'1’l (@1121 Nigirm Shah, king, ser-
vant of the race of the apostle (Muham-
mad), and of the house of God, 956."
“Muhammad Bin Hasan Rfimi made


—““"""'l
378
this.” V“ Shah Uilamgir (Q5111, the
asylum of religion, who granted the
claims of the just, took possession of a
kingdom, and conquered Bijapfir. For
the date of the con uest good fortune
came and said, “ Be su dued the monarch
of the lain.” In the 30th year of his
exalte reign =A.H. 1097.” The last
inscription commemorates the victory of
Aurangzib. The muzzle is wrought into
the form of a dragon's mouth. This
gun was regarded with superstitious
reverence by all the inhabitants of Bija-
pfir, and till lately the Hindus worshiped
it, smearing it with oil and cinnabar.
In speaking of the magnificence of their
former kings the eople boast that this
gun was carried be ore them on state oc-
casions. The most absurd stories of
the terrible efl“ects produced by its
fire are current amongst the natives.
Many buildings are said to have been
thrown down by the concussion, and
many ladies injured by the fright.
There is a small tank just behind it, and
into this, it is said, the gunner, after
igniting the fusee, was obliged to plunge
headlong, t_o escape from the destruction
which would otherwise have been certain
from the tremendous sound. The ridi-
culous character of these legends was
shown on the 5th of Janu , 1829,
when by order of the Raja o same,
the gun was loaded with eighty pounds
of coarse powder, and fired. Many
of the inhabitants left the city in
alarm at hearing what was intended to
be done; but the explosion, though
loud, was nothing very extraordinary,
and quite disappointed their expectations.
In the ci a scene of ruin and desola-
tion meets t e eye. Almost all Oriental
towns, consisting chiefly of flat-roofed
houses built of mud and perishable mate-
rials, have a desolate appearance, but
Bijapfir is peculiarly a city of ruins.
The inhabitants are all collected in one
row of houses extending from the old
Makkah gate to the Allahpfir gate.
Every street beside this is more or less
in ruins. The best place within the
town for pitching tents is in the Nau
Ba h, where there is abundance of
she ter, and plenty of ood water. Ac-
commodation can also had in a small

I I I I I I I
ROUTE 9.'—'SATAB.A T0 BIJAPUB.—BIJ'APUB.
Sect. I.
masjid, now converted into a traveller’:
bangld. Residence in any of the other
mosques and buildings is forbidden by
Government. Near this traveller’ s bangla
is the Mihtari Mallal or Mhetri Malual,
a most beautiful building, highly orna-
mented with richly carved clay-stone
that looks like wood until closely ex-
amined. This stone is found in the
neighbourhood of Bijapfir. The build-
ing is a perfect gem, and nothing can
exceed the execution of its ornamenture.
Indeed, the carving reminds one of the
best pieces of wood carving in the
Netherlands, and is quite as elaborate.
There is a. curious story regarding the
erection of this structure, which has
probably sprung from a corruption of
its name, Miktari Mallal, “ Prince's
Palace,” to Mhetri Maltal, “ Sweepers
Palace.” * When the Muhamrnadans
first invaded India, and, in their cam
about Delhi, came into contact with e
Hindus, they, in their rough jokes, gave
the Hindu workpeople vanous mck-
names, and called the low caste sweeper,
Mihtari or “Prince,” and this word in
its corruption of Mhetri has lost the
original meaning, and now signifies only
sweeper. \Vith this explanation the
story nizyl be related. Ibrahim Shah
I. was 'cted with a dreadful malady,
which no medicine could cure, and des-
pairing of assistance from his physicians,
e applied to the astrologers. One of
them craftily assured the king that he
might recover if he would present a large
sum to the first person he beheld next
morning, intending to present himself to
the king’s notice the instant he should
awake. The king, however, awoke
much earlier than usual, and, lookin
out from a window of his palace, behel
a poor sweeper, on whom he conferred
the prodi ious sum which had been
named. he Mhetri, overloaded with
unexpected wealth, disposed of it by
_ * This is the explanation given by a writer
in the Calcutta Review, but it is not impos-
sible thatthe names mav have been chan ed
through a peculiar _Orienta1 delicacy, wh ch
will utter no low or 1ll_-omened word. When
an Oriental would signify that he has finished
his repast, he does not say, " take away," but
" set on more." So not to utter the word
“ sweeper." he would call a man oi’ that class
" a prince."


Bombay. acorn 9.—1;iJs1>im—'roms or MUHAMMAD snin.
879
~ roof of the mosque.
building this edifice. Whether the
building was intended for a mosque
seems doubtful. It is three stories high
with minarets at the corners and in front.
From the angles hang massy stone
chains, which must have been cut out of
solid blocks, as there are no joinings in
the links. On the left, and almost op-
posite to this, are 4 large Gothic looking
arches. They formed the gateway lead-
ingto thepalaces of Mfi$I;&f&@5.H Ardis-
tani, and ’Iwaz Iihan; the former of
whom was a distinguished nobleman at
the Bijapiir Court during the reign of
its 4th king. The next edifice reached
is the Jam’i-Masjid or Great Mosque,
which was built by ’Ali ’A’di1 Shah I.
durin the life of his father Ibrahim I. ;
and t e following chronogram, which
is near the altar-piece, gives the date of
the structure, A.H. 943=A.n. 1536.
“ Enter the mosque of the Sultan whose
end was happy." It is an extensive
edifice, surrounded on the N.W. and S.
side by a high wall of nearly40ft., which,
concealing the dome, gives the whole
a clumsy appearance from without.
The wall has a lower story of false
arches, raised on a plain base of 6 or 7ft.
in height, and an upper one or narrow
arcade, opening externally, along which
runs a passage communicating with the
The entrance is by
a. door on the N. side to an extensive
court, raised about 6ft. high; in the
midst of which there is a fountain, and
on the right a raised pavement of 2 ft.
high, fronting the mosque on the E.
The body of the buildin consists of a
magnificent arcade 240 ft. road by 138.
The pillars are all equi-distant, some-
thing more than 26 ft. from centre to
centre, and elevated 25ft. From them
spring arches of the usual pointed shape
common to masjids, which support a
flat dome, resting between every 4 pil-
lars. In the centre of the floor below
there is a clear space of 75 ft., over which
rises the large external dome of an egg-
shape, and whose span of 54 ft., is raised
80ft. from the avement. On the N.
and S. walls t ere are two hand-
some piazzas, that consist of 7 lar e
arches, and run from the body of t e
mosque to about 186 ft. The milcrdb,

or altar, on the W'., is elegantly gilded,
and displays above its centre the follow-
ing inscription :—“ Allah, Muhammad,
Abiibakr, ’ Umr, ’U§m:'in, Haidar,” which
informs us that Muhammad the 6th king
by whose orders the ornaments were
made, was of the Sunni sect of Islam,
though all the others excepting Ibrahim
the 1st was of the Shi'ah persuasion.”
There are several other inscriptions,
among which are the following,-—“I
remember, that this royal altar was or-
namented by orders of Muhammad
’A'dil Shah.” “Place not reliance on
this life, because it is not steadfast, and
in this house of inquietude nothing is at
rest for any one." “ Pleasant is the
stage of the world now sparklin in
mine eye; and happy is the lot of my
life, but it is fleeting.” “ Y£il_rut_i was
the servant of the mos ue and the slave
of Muhammad Shah, w ose shadow may
God continue to support! A.H. 1045"
=A.D. 1635. An aggregate height of
the dome from the ound to its a ex,
may be about 120 ft. The floor be ow,
which is chunamed, is divided by black
lines into numerous square portions made
by order of Aurangzib, when he took
Bijapiir and carried away the velvet
carpets, along with a golden chain and
othervaluables, belon to the mosque.
The view from the flat roof of the Jdm’s'
Ma.g7'id is the best in Bi'ap1ir.
Tomb of Multamma Shdh.--On the
opposite side of the road, to the N ., is
the celebrated mausoleum of Muhammad
Shah, the 6th king of Bijapiir. The
dome is said to be lar er than that of
St. Paul’s, and even t an that of St.
Peter’s, but it is to be regretted that no
exact measurements have been obtained
to justify these statements. According
to Colonel Sykes, the circumference of
the dome inside is 139 paces, which
would give a diameter of 116 ft., but it
is obvious that a measurement so made
can only be an approximation to the
truth. _The external view of this edifice
is not fine from any point, and, apart
from its gi ntic dimensions, little can
be said in its favor, but the enormous
proportions of the interior cannot fail
to impress every beholder. All the
domes at Bijapfir, large and small, are


380
* / p / * * /
RoUTE 9.—sÁTARA To BíJAPöR—THE UPARí BURJ. Sect. I.
built on the same £ and as, in
some that are unfinished, the plan can
be distinctly seen, it is very desirable
that some architect should examine them,
and explain how such vast masses of
masonry and rubble are supported. This
tomb is commonly called the Güli Gum-
baz, or “Rose dome.” It is built on a
terrace 600 ft. sq. and 2 ft. high. Each
face presents three lofty false arches,
springing from the pavement, and sup-
porting several feet of plain limework
and plaster, above which is a cornice of
grey basalt, and a row of small arches
supporting a second line of plain work
surmounted by a balustrade 6 ft, high,
terminating in small cupolas. The base
of the middle arch is of grey basalt, the
others are of stonework and plaster.
At the corners of the edifice are minarets
of eight octagonal stories, 12 ft. broad,
entered by winding staircases and ter-
minating in cupolas, which communicate
with the terraced roof of the building,
Each story has 7 small arched windows
opening outwardly and looking into the
court below, while the 8th admits a
passage for the circular stair. From
this there is also an entrance to the
large dome and on to a broad ledge sur-
rounding its interior edge. This is so
large that a carriage might pass round
it, and rests on supports, inclining in-
wards in curves, like half arches. The
cupolas and dome communicate by nume-
rous niches, which take away from the
distinctness of the echo of the voice,
though, according to Col. Sykes, the
dome transmits sound like St. Paul's.
Dr. Bird conjectures the height of the
tomb to be 150 ft., but is probably
within the mark. From the roof there
is a commanding view of the ruined city
and surrounding country. The build-
ing is entered by a lofty door on the S.
side, where the first thing to be observed
is the grave of the king, which is im-
mediately under the dome. It is a com-
mon tomb, much broken, and covered
with a wretched wooden canopy. To
the left, facing the spectator, are the
tombs of his youngest wife and the son
of 'Ali 'Adil Shah II. On the right
are those of his favorite mistress, the
dancing girl Rambhá, his daughter, and
his eldest wife, sister of the king of
Golkonda, whose pilgrimage to Makkah
is noticed by Bernier." On the inner
side of the doorway by which the build-
ing is entered are several inscriptions.
Of these the first is “Sultán Muhammad,
a dweller in Paradise.” These words
ive the date A.H. 1067 = A.D. 1656.
he second is, “The end of Muhammad
was worthy of praise.” This gives the
same date as the above. “The third is,
“King Muhammad was in the house of
peace.” This gives the date, A.H. 1068,
A.D. 1657, which was the true date of his
decease. Opposite the E. and W. sides
of the mausoleum are two ruined foun-
tains, and at the end of the platform on
the W. is a small but beautiful mosque
in tolerable repair. The wall of the
enclosure is a mass of ruins, except the
gateway on the S. face. This locality
was called, Pádshāhpūr Bázár.
The Tāj Bā’ori or “Crown Well.”—
This superb well or tank is not far from
the Mihtari Mahal, but nearer the
Makkah gate. It is 100 yds, square
and 50 ft. deep, and is surrounded by a
colonnade and gallery. The entrance
is through a grand arch, on either side
of £ is a wing for the accommoda-
tion of travellers, and the descent to the
water is by a magnificent flight of steps.
It is said by Col. Sykes to have been
built by Malik Sandal in Sultán Mu-
hammad's reign, and a curious story
is related by Col. Sykes regarding it, a
parallel to which is, however, to be
found in the Bágh o Bahár, whence
probably the tale was taken. Accord-
ing to Dr. Bird, it was built by Sanidu'l
Mulk, the Wazir of Sultán Muhammad.
There is also another fine well called
the Chānd Bá'ori, said by Dr. Bird to
be the work of the famous Chānd Bibi
(see p. lxvii.).
The Upari Burj. — Another object
that attracts notice, not far from the
Makkah gate, is the Upari Burj, or
“Over tower,” an isolated tower 80ft.
high. It was built by Haidar Khán,
who, being absent when the king made
his chief nobles build each two towers
and a connecting curtain of the outer
* Brock's Translation of Bernier, vol. ii., p.


Bombay. RouTE 9.—sáTARA To BíJAPúR—THE AsăR 1 sIIARíF.
381
fort, complained on his return that no
task had been assigned to him. “You
shall build a tower to overlook all,”
said the king; and Haidar accordingly
built this tower in front of his house.
The ascent is by a winding ramp outside.
On the top is a very curious gun made
of iron bars welded together and bound
with iron hoops at regular intervals.
It is said by Col. Sykes to be 30ft. long.
The Palace of the Asar i Sharif–
Returning in a W. direction to the fort
ditch the traveller will come to the
Asår i Sharif, or “Illustrious relics,”
so called from some hairs of Muham-
mad's beard said to be preserved there.
This building was a mosque formerly
attached to a college and library long
since decayed. It was built by Muham-
mad’Adil Sháh, and contains a library
of Kur'ans and religious works, but no
histories. A catalogue was made by
Gen. Briggs Persian secretary. It is a
large heavy building of brick and lime,
whose magnificent verandah, 33 ft.
broad, and 120ft. long, has an elevated
roof supported by four massy wooden
pillars. The entrance is by a door on
the S.; and on the left a stone stair-
case leads to the upper part of the
palace; and to a hall of the same dimen-
sions as the verandah, where are two
large folding doors at the N. and S.
ends. Beyond these is a small closet
on the right, where the relics of the
prophet are deposited; but which are
only shown once a year for the gratifi-
cation of the faithful. These were
formerly exhibited to the multitude
from a small balcony, which extends
along part of the upper story. The
building is supplied with a fine reser-
voir of water, 25 yds. long, 60 yds.
broad, and 6 yds. deep, supplied from a
distance by several of the square towers
called Ganj. The most important part
of this building is the room which con-
tains the relics. Such is the sanctity
that they bestow, that strangers are not
allowed to enter; but at the annual
festivals a large sum is collected from
devout pilgrims. Some costumes of the
former kings and beautiful carpets may
be seen by visitors, who must not forget
the view into the mosque from the
other side of the tank, which is worth
looking at. The Asări Sharif formerly
communicated with the citadel by means
of a bridge, of which nothing now
remains excepting the pillars, and suc-
ceeded to the honor of holding the
precious relics of the Prophet, after a
similar building within the citadel had
been burned down. Following the edge
of the ditch to the S.W. the traveller
will come to a massy square tower, called
the Chatra Ganj, which is one of 14
such, that were built by the unfortunate
Afzal Khán, who met his death at the
hands of Sivaji, the founder of the
Maratha empire. These, which are
contrivances for giving impetus to the
water of an aqueduct, were built, it
would appear, in the time of Muham-
mad Sháh for the purpose of supplying
the city. The following inscription on
the one first mentioned must ' read
with some interest, by all who have
curiosity to know the condition of one
whose history is so connected with the
famous Maratha leader. The inscrip-
tion on the original is written in the
Tughrá character.
“Be it known to the executors of
ornamental arts, the architects of im-
portant works, and to celebrated livin
workmen, that Afzal Khán £i
Shāhi, a nobleman of good fortune, the
present commander-in-chief, the first in
rank of the Dakhan lords, the religious
destroyer of infidelity, on whom descends
God’s favor, whom heaven pronounces
to be the most accomplished and excel-
lent, and whose name, like God's praise,
is resounded from every quarter, saying,
it is excellence, did, after much labor,
and by order of Muhammad Shāh Ghazi
(the exalted in dignity, whose court is
like that of Sulaimān, and whose glory
is as the sun), render this aqueduct con-
spicuous (calling it by the name of Mu-
hammad Nidā) for the convenience of
God’s people, so that whosoever should
have a thirsty lip might have his heart
filled and satisfied at this water, whilst
his tongue would be moist in praying
that this sovereignty of the king, the
asylum of the universe, may abide for
ever,” A.H. 1063 = A.D. 1652.
The unfinished tomb of 'Ali 'Adil


882
Sect. I.
ROUTE 9.—-siriali ro Bi.u1>1'm-—rrrs crrsnnn.
Shah II. is to be seen W. of the Xsar i
Bharif, and on the N. of the citadel.
It is a noble ruin of seven large Gothic
looking arches, constructed on a terrace
15ft. high and more than 200 ft. square.
Had not the death of the Sultan put a
sto to its progress and prevented the
ad ition of an upper story, in con-
formity with the original desi n, it
would have surpassed every other uild-
ing at Bijapur, both in magnificence
and beauty. There are many other
tombs and buildings in that part of the
city which lies between the outer wall
and the wall of the citadel, but only
four need be mentioned here. Of these,
two stand together on the S.W. of the
citadel, being that of Sidi Rihan, a
famous fakir, and his pupil Ifllawas
Khan, who was regent to Sikandar, the
infant son of ’Ali ’Kdil Shah II. His
tomb is S. of the other. S.E. of these
is the tomb of one of Aurangzib’s wives,
and also that of Kishwar Ifiian, the
founder of the fort of Dharur, who was
taken and ut to death by one of the
Nigam Shalii kings, and whose father
Asad Qran is prominently mentioned
by the early Portuguese historians.
The Citadel and Palace.—It must be
particularly observed that the buildings
Just described are between the outer wall,
or wall of the enclosed town, and the
wall of the inner fort or citadel. The
wall of the enclosed town, which is, ac-
cording to Col. Sykes, 8 m. in circum-
ference, is flanked by numerous semi-
circular towers; and was, at one time,
strengthened by a ditch and covered
way, now in many parts destroyed, and
admitting cultivated fields to closely
approach the curtain. It is strongly
built of stone and lime, with a parapet
9 ft. high and 3 ft. thick, and was com-
pleted by ’Ali ’A’dil Shah I. in A.D. 1566,
or two years after he and his Muham-
madan confederates had overturned
the neighbouring Hindu principality of
Vijayanagar. The Citadel, which is by
far the most remarkable sight in Bi'a-
pur, is within this enclosure, to the V.
of its irregular square, and is defended
by a rampart, round towers, and fausse
braye, having also a wet ditch 120 ft.
broad. The ditch, completely flooded
in former times, is now nearly dry on
the N .; on the S. it is of considerable
depth, and contains small fish -, but there
are no alli ators, as mentioned by
Tavernier. t would appear that the
water of the ditch on the N. has been
at all times deficient,therebeing a. double
wall and second wet ditch at that part.
The entrance to the fortification is by a
road which separates from the main
road at right angles, and is marked by
an immense block of black marble of a
columnar shape, lyin flat on the ground.
Following this roa the traveller will
enter on the E. by two gateways; the
inner one is of black marble, apparently
taken from a Hindu temple, and has a
door made of wooden planks, clamped
by iron plates, riveted by strong iron
pegs. Close to the entrance of the
citadel are four pillars of polished black
basalt, three on the right and one on
the left. They belonged to a. Hindu
temple, and, accor ' to Sydenham,
were sent by the widow of Ram Res to
Sultan 'Ali ’A’dil Shah I. when ija-
nagar fell. But, as similar pillars are to
be met with among the brahmanical re-
mains near, it seems probable that if not
spoils from Bfj anagar they were formerly
part of the Hindu temple now standing
in ruins on either hand; and through
which the present gateway was carried
on the first foundation of the citadel by
Yusuf ’fi(dil Shah, who, according to
Firishtah and others, built the fort.
The doubt, however, would probably be
cleared up b the dec herment of an
inscription w 'ch will e noticed on a
slab close to the pillars. Two other
rows of pillars are to be seen a few
paces further on to the right, and 3 to
the left, which are the only remainin
parts of the Hindu temple just allude
to, and which is said to have been the
place where the Hindu ladies in the
harims of the kings of Bijapur paid
their devotions. Though not uniform,
the pillars consist generally of a plain
base, a rudely-carved shaft, with a
square projection in the middle, and an
overhanging capital. Many of them
at the base commemorate grants of land
iven to the temple by the Rfsjput
amilies of Ghalukya and Yadava, who


Bombay.
383
noun: 9.—s.irini ro BiJ.u>r'm—1‘nE CITADEL.
reigned here previous to the Muham-
madan invasion of the Dakhan. The
oldest grant is written in Sanskrit and
Hali Kanada, and announces a gift of
laud to this temple of the deity Nara-
sifiha, b Chalukya Mula Devara, in
the Sha ivahan period 1114, or A.D.
1192. There is a similar gift, to the
same deity, written in the name of
Shankrapa Danda Naik, the military
rime mmister of Yadava N arayana, a
hakravarti Raja, during the 46th
year of that prince's reign, or in the
1l62nd year of the Shalivahan period,
A.D. 1240. The whole style of sculp
ture is here very similar to that of
the E’lfira excavations; and if not
told by the inscriptions that this was
a Vaishnava temple, we might con-
jecture its dedication from the sub'ects
on the square projections of the pil ars.
Among the mythological devices, there
is one of a cross-legged figure, sittin
with the hands joined, as if emplo e
in devotion, whilst on the right and eft
there are 2 standing es in attend-
ance. There is a. representation also of
Ganesh on another pillar; of Krishnah
killing the serpent Kali; and of an ele-
phant. Proceeding onwards from the
temple we come to a yet more extensive
Hindu buildin on the left. This is an
Agrahfir or br manical Colle e, which
the Muhammadans converte into a
mosque by placing on it a mimbar, or
“pulpit,” and writing the confession of
faith over the mibrab, or “arc ,” of
the altar on the W. A large enclosed
s ace in front is entered by a vestibule,
e portico of which, with its win ,
occupies the complete length of t e
Agrahar. This building consists of 2
stories, the lower presenting a front of
10 tall columns, each of a single stone,
and 6 or 7 feet distant from the other,
and deepening backwards at right angles
in rows of 6 columns each. Like the
oldest Hllldfi buildings in the Dakhan,
this has massy pieces of quartz rock
assin from one pillar to another to
orm t e roof. The walls are similarly
formed, without lime or any other
cement. There are also one or two
pillars of black basalt, which do not
appear to have belonged to the original
building, as all the others are of the
quartz rock, which must have been
brought from some distance, there being
no appearance of this formation in the
neighbourhood. A smaller, though in
other respects similar, A ahar 18 on
the N .E. of the ’Adalat _l1anah; and
this proves the existence of a consider-
able Hindu town here previous to its
being fortified by the first king of
Bij The local tradition is that a
Hm ii Raja, named Bijan Rai, whose
capital was Mangalbira, 15 m. S.S.E.
of Pandharpfir, founded these Colleges.
A round tower also, now standing, is
said to have been built in this prince's
time. It is said that soon aft-er this
time, Pir Mabrit Khandayat, the leader
of a body of fakirs having come here,
expelled the brahmans from the Agra-
hars, and propagated the faith of Islam,
p)revi0us to any regular invasion of the
akhan; and that when Yfisuf ’A’dil
Shah founded Bfapfir, this town was
called Biian H i. The tomb of the
Pir‘s son 1s within the area of the largest
Agrahar, built of lime and stone, and
covered with Arabic sentences from the
l_(ur’a.n. His own burial place is some
wa off to the E., and his descendants
stil reside there, and possess some rights
in the village of Tinié Halli, not far
from Bi'apfir.
The uhammadan buildings in the
citadel are completel in ruins, except
a small mosque, c ed the Makkah
Masjid, built by ’Ali ’Kdil Shah I.
It derives its name from a re resente-
tion of Makkah on its I_(’aba , and is
a chaste building with 12 arches sup-
ported by stone pillars, finely carved
and disposed in a square. Behind this,
to the N. stood the ’Ada'lat lflzdmzli,
or “Hall of Justice,” where the kings
received the petitions of the poor, and
shewed themselves to the people. It
was of two stories, with wide vcrandahs
raised on large wooden pillars, and was
standing when Dr. Bird first visited
Bijapfir, but was taken down by the
Rfija of same, on account of its dan-
gerous state. The ruined fountains and
the terrace where the people assembled
may still be seen. It was erected by
’Ali ’Kdil Shah I.


384
RoUTE 10.—BOMBAY To sonDAGARH. Sect. I.
The Sond Mahal, or Palace of Gold,
stood near this on the right.
burnt down. To the W. is the Ananda
Mahal, or Harim, which points S. It
has 3 stories, each having a middle hall
and smaller rooms at either end, com-
municating by narrow arches, which
were closed with curtains. It had for-
merly 2 wings to the N. The whole
ends in a broad terrace, and a wall 10ft.
high, surmounted by minarets. To the
of this is the Dhobi Mahal, and to
the S. the Sijdah Mahal, “ #
Palace,” called Sát Khaidi, or Haft
Mahal, “Seven Stories.”
the tropical rains have wroug
havoc on this splendid building, but
enough remains to attest its former
magnificence, in one vast hall with a
vaulted roof. The shell alone of the
rest is left, and the inside, which was
laid out in fountains and gardens, is
now a tangled jungle. Just beyond
this is the most picturesque view in
Bijapur. From an £ Hindú
temple, you behold the ruined walls of
the palace, covered with trees and lux-
uriant creepers. The round towers jut
out, and give variety to the scene.
The Aqueducts alone remain to be
mentioned, and, though in ruins, they
are worth inspection, particularly by
the sportsman, as in the low brushwood
which marks their position outside the
walls, lurk innumerable hares and par-
tridges, which will afford abundant
sport to the tourist.
ROUTE 10.
FROM BoMBAY To SoNDAGARH.
99 M. 2 F.
For particulars of this Route from
Bombay to Mahār see Route 3.
MILITARY AUTHORITY.—Officer com-
manding at Panah—Punah.
CIVIL AUTHORITY. — Collector at
Thánah–Thanah.
PLACES.
M. F. M. F.
BOMBAY to MAHAR 76 2 76 2
x Sãwitri r. fordable at
low water ......... .....
STAGES.
0 4
PLACES. . STAGES.
It was M. F. M. F.
Sirgā’on........ - - - - - ... 1 2
Ascend Kordari Hill...... 0.6
X 7?. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ....... 2 3
Karanjwadi ...... ... 1 3
x n to Kawalgá'on ...... 3 5
Ascend Kâwal Khind or
Latwān Ghât ......... 2 1
Top of Ghât ............... 02
LATWAN dh. . 1 0 13 2
x n to Winoí ...... ... 2 1
Ascend Mákhan Khind... 20
Top of Pass ............ ... 0 5
Time and 'Isàpór ..... • .... 04
ht sad | Sirkal.................... ... 2 3
(a)SONDAGARH, hence
visit Dápúli and Su-
warmadurg, (Severn-
droog) .................. 23 100
99 2
This Route is a section of that to
Ratnagiri and Goa, places generally
visited by sea. In the monsoon, how-
ever, it is impossible to travel by boat,
and this Route must then be taken.
(a) Soñddgarh.—Dapuli, called by the
natives Jognadi, the head-quarters of the
invalids, which ought to be one of the
best stations of the army, is 8m. distant.
It does not appear, however, that either
climate or any other advantage was
much considered in its selection.
Suwarmadurg (Severndroog of Grant
Duff and others).—This place has its
name from Skr. suwarna, “golden,”
durgam, “fort.” The fort stands on a
small island close to the coast, and is of
Some £ as Sivaji did but repair
it in 1662. In 1713 it was ceded with
9 other forts to Kánhoji Angria. On
the 2nd of April, 1755, it was attacked
by Commodore Jones, who, after a bom-
bardment of 4 days, captured the 4 dis-
tinct forts of which it consists, without
the loss of a man. It was made over to
the Marathas in exchange for Bankot
and Fort Victoria, and finally acquired
by # #!" on the fall of the Peshwá
in 1818.


Bombay. S.Jio. ' 385
SECTION II.
SOUTHERN DIVISION.
Preliminary Information.
1. Boonnsnms AND GENERAL Asrncr or THE DlIVISION——-SUB-DIVISIONS AND
CHIEF TOWNS.—-2. Hrs'roB.w.u. sKEICK—CASTES—EMPLOYMEN"l‘S or THE
Nsrxvns.
1. BOUNDARIES AND GENERAL ASPECT OF THE DIVISION——SUB-DIVISIONS AND
CHIEF TOWNS.
This division, lying between N. lat. 18° 34' and 14° 16', and E. long. 73° 40' and
76° 28', has an area of 27,615 sq. m. From its most N. to its most S. point it is
290 m. long; but this is owing to the narrow strip of -the Shela fir collectorate
stretching far to the N. beyond the other parts of this division. n breadth, the
S. division nowhere exceeds 195 m.
It is bounded on the N. by the etty principality of J injirah, a corner of the
Thanah collectorate, Satéra, Ahma a ar, and the N i_z_am’s dominions; on the
E. by the N i_z_am’s dominions ; and on t e W. by the sea. On the S. its frontier
meets those of Goa, N. Kanara, Maisfir, and Ballari.
The General aspect of the Division above the W. Ghats, which cut off from it
the narrow slip of territory that forms the Ratnagiri collectorate, is that of an
undulating plain. But from this description must be excepted the province of
Kolhé ur, which is a rough hill country, gradually sloping from the Ghats
towar s the more level tract of Be gaixw. The climate of Sholapiir is dry and
tolerably healthy. The fall of rain averages no more than 22 in. In the
plains of Kolhapiir the average fall is 30 in. 18 ccnts., while in the hilly districts
1t varies from 46 in. to 294 in. 90 cents. This province suifers much from
cholera, and though its elevation of 1,790 ft. above the sea ensures it a comparatively
temperate climate, it cannot be considered healthy. Belganw and Dharwad
ossess a far better climate, and may be regarded as quite as congenial to the
uropean constitution as any part of the Bombay Presidency. Col. Sykes
pronounces them to be the finest provinces in the Dakhan. Ratnfigiri and
Sawant Wadi are rugged, broken, interspersed with mountains and jun les, and
intersected by torrents, which, as they ap roach the sea, become very deep and
muddy. The rains on the Ghats are as eavy as in any part of the world, and
approach 300in. Tigers and other wild beasts abound, and snakes are innu-
merable and very destructive to human life. The stations by the sea, such as
Vengurla (V ingorla), are by no means unhealthy for Europeans.
The Sub-divisions and Ohief Towns of the five provinces comprised in this
division are as follows 1-
nnrivilorni (RUTNAGHERRY).
W~~* 1 Suwarnadurg Harnai 57 N .N.W.
2 Alij anwel Chipalun 40 N .N.E.
17


386 suB-DIVISIONs AND CHIEF Towns. Sect. II. Bombay.
Taluks or £ions from ChiefTowns: T.'ri. Direction.
3 Ratnāgiri Ratnagiri 3% **
4 Vijayadurg (Wiziadroog) Rájápúr 28 S.S.E.
5 Málwan Málwan 64 S.
sHoLAPGR (SHOLAPORE).
Taluks or s#sions from Chief Towns, P:#m Direction.
1 Karmále (Kurmulla) Karmále 67 N.W.
2 Bársf Bârsi 40 N.N.W.
3 Márhe (Mahara) Márhe (Mahara) 34 N.W.
4 Mohol Mohol 19 W.N.W.
5 Sholapür Sholápúr ** 3?
6 Indi Indí 34 S.
7 Hirpargi (Heepurgee) Hirpargi 60 S.S.E.
8 Mangoli Mangolf 70 S.
9 Mudebihál (Moodbhal) Mudebihál 92 S.S.E.
KoDHAPöR.
Taluk or 'sions from Chief Towns. T###ar. Direction.
1 Wishalgarh Malkāpar 30 N.W.
2 Panhálá Panhálá 10 N.W.
3 Alte Alte 13 N.E.
4 Sherúl Sherúl 25 N.E.by E.
5 Kolhapur Kolhapur ** **
6 Baora (Bowrah) Báorá 25 S.W.
7 Kágal Kágal 9 S.E.
8 Budargarh (Boodurgur) Budargarh 31 S.
9 Garh Inglaj Garh Inglaj 32 S.E.
10 Inchalkarinji Inchalkarinji 18 E.
11 Toregal Toregal 87 S.E.
Of the above sub-divisions, Nos. 2, 3, 4, 5, 8, and 9 are called Parganahs,
and the rest are Jagirs or districts belonging to feudatory chiefs. There are,
besides, 14 smaller Jagirs, viz.:-Walwd, Kapsi, Jagir of Jagat Guru, or
Sankeshwarswami, Jagir of Raoji Mahdraj, Jagir of Tatia Mahdráj, Jagir of
Josi Rao, Jagir of Siriashkar, Jagir of Himmat Bahadur, Jagir of Jabtan Mulk,
Jagir of Narayan Rao Ghatke, Jagir of Amiru'l’Umard, Jagir of Hindu Rao, Jagir
of Bhim Bahadur. The Jagir of Toregal is completely separated from Kolhapûr
by the collectorate of Belgá'on, and is situated on the confines of Dharwad.
BELGANw oR BELGA'oN (BELGAUM).
**#" chiertowns. T###, Direction.
1 Tásgáñw (Tazgaum) Tásgáñw 80 N.
2 Athni (£ Athni 70 N.E.
3 Chikori Chikori 40 N.
4 Gokak Gokák - 30 N.E.
5 Bágalkot Bagalkot 82 E.N.E.
6 Padshahpar Belgáñw ** 25
7 Parasgad Sawdatti 40 E
8 Badámi Badámi 78 E.
9 Hungund Hungund 103 E.
10 Sampgáñw Sampgáñw 17 E.S.E.
11 Bidi Bídi 22 S.S.E.


Southern Div. HISTORICAL snnrcu. 887
nnziawén.
T‘1“k“ °' 5I‘,‘_",'§’§‘fisi°“‘ Mm Ohlel’ Towns. To1,?',*;*,';gg§ {’,§,§‘,‘§,°,{,,_ Direction.
1 Nawalgund (Nowlgooud) Nawalgund 24 E.N.E.
2 Dharwad Dharwad ,, ,,
3 Dambal (Dummul) Gadag (Gudduk) 40 E.
4 Hubli (Hooblee) Hubli 12 S.E.
5 Barikapiir (Bunkapoor) Shiwgaiiw (Seegaon) 34 S.S.E.
6 Hangal (Hun ut) Hangal 48 S.
7 Ra1_1ebc1'1n\ir( ednore) Ranebefinfir 69 S.E.
8 Kod (Koda) Ratihali 77 S.S.E.
2. HISTORICAL SKETCH--OASTES—-EMPLOYMENTS OF THE NATIVE-
The history of this Division, so far as it can be dissociated from that of the
surrounding provinces, resolves itself into a history of Kolhapur, the Rajas of
which country have for 1000 years, at least, been dominant over the greater por-
tion of territory included in this Division. In the elaborate report on the Princi-
palit of Kolhapfir, compiled by Major D. C. Graham, of the 28th Bomba N. I.,*
will be found various inscriptions and their translations, which refer to ynasties
of the 12th and 13th centuries .a.1). Before that date tradition is the only guide,
and from it, it would seem that in the beginning of the 6th centur n.n. Raja
Ram ruled over all the countries between the Narmada and the sea. n .s.n. 789
a prince of Jayanagar overran the S. provinces. His minister, Himar Pant, is
said to have invented the Mop or written character of the Marathi language. A
blank follows till A.D. 1028, when the light of the inscri tions is first reached.
An inscription found in a Jain temple at Raibagh, date 1202, in the Sanskrit
langua e, but old Kanadi character, 'ves the genealogy of a conquering prince
named akshmi Deo, which oes bac about 174 ears, and shows that, in 1028,
a dynasty had been establishe which ruled over t e W. part of Kolhapur. The
founder was J imfitawahana Shilahar, who was a branch of the Réfés who reigned
for centuries previous at Tagara. At the same time, in the 13t century, there
ruled another dynast , eight miles from Kolhapfir, at Berad, which included
Kolhapfir itself and anhala; and another at Vishalgarh, where tradition says
that a Raja Bhoj reigned in A.D. 688; and, finally, a fourth at Sankeshwar.
There are still remains of a palace and a very ancient temple at Berad, and it is
said that the seat of government was transferred thence to Kolhapfir in con-
sequence of a great earthquake that took place between the 13th and 14th cen-
turies. The Jimfitawahan dynasty appears to have been overthrownf by Shringan
Deo, who was probably a Yadava Rajpiit. Inscriptions in the Sanskrit character
of the Chlalukya dynasty also have been dug up at the temple Ambabf at Kolha-
pfir, but unfortunately without date. There is reason to think, however, that they
are the oldest that have been discovered. The earliest Persian inscription found
at Vishalgarh shews that the Muhammadans took that fort in A.D. 1234. Malik
Rahim, who led the invaders, was canonized after death, and miracles were pre-
tended to be wrought at his shrine. This is all that can be ascertained at resent
regarding the history of the division before the Muhammadan conquest; ut the
caves and other remains shew that the Buddhists were numerous and powerful
here, probably, in the first centuries of the Christian aera. It is to be anticipated
that many discoveries of inscriptions will yet be made at Ranebennfir, Hubli,
- Athni, and other ancient towns; and, when all these are deoiphercd and compared,
much of the annals of the early Hindu princes who reigned in this quarter may
yet be recovered.
* Selections from t_he Records of the Bombay Government, No.viii. New Series, Bombay, 1851..
1' Grant Dufl’, vol. 1. p. ‘:9. .


388 znsronxcu. sxarcn. Sect. II. Bombay.
The conquest of these territories, which, for some years previous to the battle
of Talikot, in 1565, were subject to Bijanagar, was not entirely completed by the
Muhammadans till the close of the 15th century A.D., and in the middle of the
next the country passed into Sivaji’s hands. In 1690 A.I). Kolhapur, as a province
of the kingdom of Bijapur, was reckoned the 5th Subah of Aurangzilfs conquests
in the Dakhan. But the people resisted the M@ul yoke, and at Anrangzib's
death the Maruthas became possessed of the whole province, which remained an
integral part of the Maratha empire until 1729, when it was formed into an in-
dependent princi ality, under a prince of the house of Sivaji, whose descent is as
follows :——Siva'i eft two sons, Shambuji or Sambhaji and Rea Ram, by different
wives. Ruja am was, in 1689, declared Regent after Sam haji's execution by
Aurangzib, during the minority of Sambhaji’s son Sahu, who was shortly after
made prisoner by the Mughu s. In 1700, Raja Ram died, leaving, by dif-
ferent wives, two sons, Siva'i and Sambhaji, of whom Siva'i was placed on the
throne by his mother, Tara ai, but in 1708, Sahu, being re eased, seized same,
and became the acknowledged head of the Maratha nation. On this, Sivaji,
whose adherents were strong m the S., fixed himself at Panhalé. and Kolhapur. This
%rince died of small-pox in 1712, when Ramchandra Pant A’matya placed Tara
ai and Sivaj'1’s widow, Bhawani Bai,* in confinement, and raised Sambhaji to
the throne of Kolhapur. Sarje Rao Ghatke,1' the powerful chief of Kagal, now
Joined Sambhaji, and, the Mugl_1u1 viceroy of the Dakhan also assisting him, the
struggle for supremacy continued for 13 years with alternate success. In 1727
Samllahaji made great preparations for a final campai n, but the Peshwa, Bajf Rao
Balal, gained such advantages over him, that after eing deserted by his allies,
Kfn'1ho_]i Angria, and the Nigam, he was obliged, in 1729, to ield- his claim on
the Maratha sovereignty to Suhu, and content himselfwith Kol apur, as adistinct
principality. Its boundaries were the ‘Verna and Krishna on the N. and E.,
and the Tungabhadra on the S. From this date, then, the separation between
the Sataré. and Kolhapéir families became complete. In imitation of the elder
kingdom, the Raja of olhapur appointed eight grand officers of State. Bhag-
want Rao had Vlshalgarh with the oflice of Pratmidhi; Ramchandra Nil Kafith
had Baora, with the oflice of Pant Amatya ; the oflice of Senapati or General, fell
to Shidoji, nephew of Santaji Glmdpade, and other chiefs were made Pant Sachiva,
Mantri, Dabir, Nyayadhish, and Nyayashastri.
In December, 1760, Sambhaji, the last lineal descendant of Sivaji, dyin
without issue, the son of Shah'i Bhonslé, of Kanhwat, a descendant of the 10tlg1
son of Bhosaji, of the line of apa Rawal, of Ohitur, who reigned in 134 A.D.,
was carried ofl' and adopted, and the Queen, with 5,000 followers, set out with
him for Banaras. Her party was met at J ijuri by the Peshwa, who, after great
entreaty, agreed to the adoption, and presented the young Raja with a magnifi-
cent diamond ring. In October, 1762, the youth was enthroned at Panali or
Panhala, under the name of Sivaji, and rich presents were sent to him by the
Nigam, Haidar ’Ali, and all the neighboring chiefs. For some years the Queen
acted as Regent, and, under her rule, piracy grew to such a height that the En lish,
in 1765, despatchcd an armament; which captured the fort of Mélwan, an the
Peshwa wrested the districts of Chikori and Manoli from Kolhapur, and gave
them to the Patwardans. This latter circumstance led to a petty warfare with
the Patwardans, which was rancorousl carried on for many years. Malwan,
however, was subsequentl restored by t e British, on their receiving ayment df
382,896 rupees; and Chi ori and Manoli were given back by the Pes wa in his
last illness. In February, 1772, the Queen J ija Bai died. She had encouraged
human sacrifices to a fearful extent, and parties scoured the plains at night for
' She was then pregnant, and, in 1750. her son, Barn ll-4&8. became Rm of sate;-9..
_ 1' The founder of this family, Kam Dee. acquired the name of Ghatke by suppressing 5
mmous brigand named Ghnt. Sec Graham’s Report, p. 504, note.


Southern Div. . HISTORICAL sxnrcn. 389
victims to be offered at the Black Tower of Paiihala, within a few hundred yards
of her palace. This tower was a temple to Durga, the Hindu Hecate, in the
inner fort, and so thickly over-canopied with trees, that not a ray of light could
break the gloom. In 1773, Kunhar Rae Trimbak, Patwardan of Kurandwar,
overran the count , laid siege to Kolha fir, and burned a famous Math or
monastery in the su urbs, whence he carrie off an immense treasure. The Chief
Priest buried himself alive at Shengaiiw, invoking curses on the sacrilegious
spoiler, who nevertheless returned ha pily to his own district. In 1777 the chiefs
of Kagal, Baora, and Vishalgarh, ai ed by the Punah troops, attacked Kolhapfir,
but were signally defeated, as was also the Peshwa’s general, J iwaji Go él Joshi.
In revenge for this, Mahadaji Sindhia was despatched from Piinah wit an over-
whelmin force, and ravaged the whole province, nor did he withdraw till he had
exacted rom the Raja an a cement to pay 15,00,000 rupees for losses sustained by
the Peshwa. In 1777, Hai ar ’Ali visited Kolhapfir, presented 1,00,000 rupees, and
offered the support of his troops. In 1777 the Patwardan Parshuram Ramchandra,
of Mira_', took Akewat, and 2 years after Sherfil, and in 1780 got possession of the
strong ort of Budargarh. Ratnakar Pant Apa now became prime minister, and
under his guidance the Raja made a successful expedition to SawantWa1_li, and soon
after transferred the seat of government from Panhala to Kolhapfir. In 1786
the Raja Sivaji again invaded Sawant Wadi with complete success. In 1792 the
English fitted out a force at Bombay to attack Wadi and Kolhapfir in conse-
quence of the piracies of those powers, but an apology was made by the Raj a, and
a treaty concluded, by which permission was conceded for the establishment of
British factories at Malwan and Kolhapfir. In 1793 Parshuram Ramchaudra,
who had just returned from aiding the British in Maisur, invaded the Kolha fir '
territories, but in 1794 his son Rarnchandra was defeated before the walls of te
by Sivaji, and made risoner with all his principal officers. They were treated
generously and release , but the elder Patwardan, unsoftened by this kindness to his
son, immediately recrossed the frontier, and laid siege to Kolhaprir, from which city
he exacted 3,00,000 rupees. Soon after this Nana Farnavis encouraged the Rife. of
Kolhapfir to attack the Patwardans. Upon this Sivaji called out the whole orce
of his State, and, by a well-managed surprise, recovered the strong fort of Budar-
garh, which had been 10 years in the Patwardan’s ossession. Chikori and
Manoli were recovered from Bhaskar R510 Trimbak, t e chief of Nepani. In
October, 1796, Sivaj i marched from Kolhapur, and, after plundering several
towns, completely sacked Tasgailw, and burnt the palace of the Patwardan. In
1798 the Kolhapiir Rsja aided the Raja of semis in his attempt to recover his
independence, and received the gallant Chatur Singh, the Raj ifs brother, when he
escaped from Satara. This prince, being pursued by the Peshwa's troops, turned
back upon them with the reinforcements he had received from Kolhapfir, and cut
them oif almost to a man, and then, marching on Karad, surprised the Patwardan’s
troops and totally routed them. During this march an unsuccessful attempt was
made to assassinate Sivaji, who returned in triumph to Panhala. Soon after, a
detachment of the Kolhapfir troops was despatched on a foray, and, falling in
with a band of 400 Thags, hanged or beheaded them all. After this unishment,
other hordes of that fraternity of miscreants avoided the province o Kolhapfir.
At Savanfir the Kolhapfir troo s were, however, totally defeated, and driven back
by Dhondu Pant Goklé; but, eing reinforced by Siva'i in person, took Konfir,
killed the Desai, and laid the whole country round un er contribution. In 1799
N ané Farnavis, being reconciled to Parshuram Patwardan, directed him to
restrain the forays of the Kolhapfir Raja. This led to a pitched battle at Chikori,
where Sivaji, surrounded by a body-guard littering in chain armour, ap earcdat
the head of 16,000 men, and completely gefeated Parshuram, killing im, and
utting his whole army to flight. Ramchandra, Parshuram’s son, repaired to
tinah, and obtained powerful reinforcements, among which were 5 battalions of


390 HISTORICAL SKETCH. Sect. II. Bombay.
Sindhia's regular troops, under Major Brownrig. With this army, in 1799, he
besieged Kolhapir. Sivaji himself retired into the fort of Panhälä, but was
£ on the way and suffered heavy loss. On the 4th of Jan., 1800, the enemy's
batteries opened against Kolhapûr; and on the 12th of March, a wide breach
having been made, the enemy's columns advanced to the assault, but were driven
back with the loss of 3,000 killed and wounded, including several of Sindhia's
European officers," whose graves may still be seen near the ramparts. The next day
the enemy raised the siege. A peace of some years followed, and during the cam-
paign of 1804 the Kolhapūr Rājā observed a strict neutrality between the English
and Marathas. In 1806, Sivaji besieged the fort of Wadi, whereupon the
Peshwá sent assistance to the Sãwant. This led to a war between the Peshwá
and Sivaji, and in 1808 the Peshwä's general, the chief of Nepání, totally
defeated the Kolhapar army at Songahw, with the loss of 5,000 men, and
all their cannon, colors, and elephants. Sivaji himself, severely wounded, with
difficulty escaped. A peace followed, and on the 21st of June, 1809, a princess
of Kolhápar was given in marriage to the Nepāni chief, who, suspicious of
treachery, suddenly decamped in the night with his bride, and two years after
made £ irruption into Kolhapûr, and defeated Sivaji's troops at Hewra,
capturing 5 guns and 1,200 prisoners. In 1812, a British force assembled at
Pandharpúr, and peace was made between the contending parties, through the
intervention of Mr. Elphinstone. The fort of Málwan was, on that occasion,
ceded to the Bombay Government, which guaranteed Kolhapir from further ag-
£ The same year the palace and state records were partly destroyed at
olhápiir, during a tumult, by some Patháns. Sivaji died on the 24th of April,
1812, after a reign of 53 years... He left two sons, by different mothers, Shambhu
and Shāhji, better known as Abá Sáhib and Bāwā Sáhib. Abá Sáhib quietly
succeeded. During the war with the Peshwá, in 1818, he heartily espoused the
British cause; and, by a new treaty, Chikori and Manolí were taken from the
Nepánichief, and restored to Kolhapūr. On the 2nd of July, 1821, Abá Sáhib was
murdered in his palace by Sáhaji Mohité, and Bāwā Sahib succeeded. He was
a prince of a daring and ferocious character, and, in 1824, during the disturbances
at Kitar, his behaviour led to grave suspicions. Next year his intrigues had pro-
ceeded so far, that the British resolved to interfere. A force of 6,000 men
marched on Kolhapur, and arrived there in December. The Rājā had assembled
20,000 men; but, as the British troops crowned the heights above the city, his
heart failed him, and he submitted to ' terms offered to him. In October, 1826,
he visited the Governor of Bombay at Pinah. He came with a splendid body-
guard of 1,000 horse, 16 elephants, a battalion of Arabs, and 1,600 irregular
infantry . His conduct was most irritating; and at last, having wounded a trooper
in the Pūnah horse, he made a precipitate retreat. Troops were now put in
motion against him from Belgáñw, and he again tendered his submission; but not
keeping to his promises, a British force was, in 1827, for the third time assembled
at Kolhápiir. The town, though garrisoned by 3,000 Arabs, immediately surren-
dered, and, on the 23rd of October, a new treaty was imposed. The # WaS
compelled to reduce his troops to 400 horse, and 800 foot; to discharge his Arabs;
to cede Chikori and Manoli, and the forts of Panhálá and Pawangarh; and to
permit a British regiment to be be quartered at Kolhapūr. Bâwá Sáhib died on
the 29th of November, 1837, at Yeoti, near Pandharpúr, whither he had gone on
a pretended pilgrimage, but really with the design of plundering some of the
towns on the Krishná. He left two sons and two daughters. His eldest son,
Sivaji, succeeded him. A regency was formed of the young prince's mother, his
aunt, and four ministers, but the aunt soon got possession of the whole power.
.* Jules Romen, né 1768, un citoyen de Languedoc, commante du battn. de l'arm
Sindhia. Tué aux trenches de Kolápiir, 23me Mars, 1806, is one of the inscriptions. ee de


Southern Div. HISTORICAL sxnrcn. 391
As she ruled most oppressively, the En lish Government resolved to appoint a
minister, and, in 1843, nominated Daji Kgrishnah to the ofiice. This officer con-
scientiousl endeavored to introduce reforms, but was resolutely opposed by the
Regent, w o enco ed a spirit of discontent, until a regular conspiracy was or-
nized against the ritish Government. In July, the forts of Samangarh and
udargarh closed their gates, and Lieut.-Col. Wallace, of the Madras army, was
sent from Belganw, with 1,200 men, 4 mortars, and 2 nine- ounders, to capture
them. He arrived before Siimangarh on the 19th of Septem er, and on the 24th
carried the Péta, but was obliged to turn the siege of the fort into a blockade, and
to send to Belgafiw for battering- uns. On the 22nd of September, the garrison
of Budargarh sullied out on the olha fir troops sent against them, and d.1SP€l‘S6d'
them with loss, and this success greatly encouraged the rebels. Reinforoements
of English troops were now ordered up. On the 8th of October, General Dela-
motte took command, and on the 11th, 4 battering guns reached Samangarh.
They were immediately placed in position, and by the next evening a breach was
effected. The Commissioner, Mr. Reeves, allowed the garrison to parle , but
found they were confident of support from Kolhapfir, where the troops h risen
and confined Daji Krishnah. Aifairs, therefore, took their course, and on the
morning of the 13th the place was stormed and carried with little opposition,
and a wing of the 6th Madras Cavalry cut up a large body of rebels, who had
assembled in the neighborhood.
On the day before the storm, Colonel Outram joined the camp to act with Mr.
Reeves, and was the first man inat the assault, and, indeed, for several minutes,
alone among the enemy. On the lace being captured, the Joint Commissioners
ofi'ered an amnesty to all who would return to their allegiance. This proclama-
tion, however, produced no etfect. Colonel Outram then, with characteristic
energy, set off for Kagal, taking with him Lieut.-Colonel Wallace and 600 of his
brigade, in order that, by his near proximity, he might be the better able to
support the Rajé. against his rebellious troops, and effect the release of the minister,
Daji Krishnah, who was now imprisoned in the fort of Pawangarh. On the 24th of
October, after much negotiation, the Minister was released, and the younti Rajfi
of Kolhapiir, with his aunt and mother, and a majority of the chiefs, cit e city
and joined the British camp. This movement was strongly opposed by the
soldiery, of whom 600, under Btibaji Ahirékar, went ofi‘ to jom the malcontents at
Budargarh. On the 20th of October, General Delamotte moved from Saméngarh
against Budargarh, the ‘garrison of which place had, ten days previously, plundered
the British Parganah o Chikori and robbed the treasury of the principal station.
On arriving at Budargarh, General Delamotte admitted the arrison to surrender;
but, while he was parleying at one gate, Babtiji and his fol owers escaped at the
other, and threw themselves into the still stronger fortress of Panhala. On the
17th of November, Colonel Ovans, the Resident at same, who had just been
appointed Special Commissioner in the S. Maratha country, was seized by the
rebels while incautiously travellin with a very slight escort from same, and
carried prisoner into Panhala. T e Joint Commissioners exerted themselves to
procure his release, and succeeded, but the garrison of Panhala still kept their
gates closed, and rejected the terms offered to them. On the 27th the Peta was
captured. On the morning of the 1st of December the batteries opened; the same
afternoon, the breach, being reported practicable, was stormed 111 allant style;
and a portion of the garrison, endeavoring to escape to the adjoining fort of
Pawangarh, were so closely followed by the British troops, that this second fortress
also fell on the same da . Babsji Ahirékar, and about 70 other ringleaders of
the malcontonts, were kified in the storm of Panhalfi, and many prisoners were
captured by troops 'udiciously posted in the surrounding plain. On the 5th of
December, Colonel allace, with a light force, proceeded against Rangna, 70 rn.
distant, and reached it on the 9th. He carried the Péta the same day; and,


392 HISTORICAL SKETCH. Sect. II. Bombay.
having got two guns and two mortars into position during the night, # ": SO
heavy a fire from them next day that the enemy, after dark, evacuated the fort,
and fled into the jungles of the Sawant Wadi country. To this quarter many of
the fugitives from Wishälgarh and other forts in the Kolhapür province betook
themselves. Colonel Outram was appointed to the command of a light field force
for the reduction of these rebels. The 7th Regiment Bombay N. I., the left
wing of the 2nd Queen's Royals, a company # M. 17th Regiment, the 3rd
Regiment Madras N.I., detachments of the 10th, 21st, and 23rd Bombay N.I.,
and of the 8th and 16th Madras N.I., of the 5th Madras L. C., and the Pinah
Horse, and a few light guns, were the troops destined for the service, and they
arrived at Wengurla about the middle of December, 1845, Their first operation
was the reduction of the hill forts called Manohar, “Mind-ravishing,” and Man-
sanitosh, “Mind's delight,” situated on two lofty rocks, about a mile from the fort
of the Ghats, and 35 m., from Wingorla, E. by N. In the first march from
Wengurla, Colonel Outram had a narrow escape. £g at the head of the column
with Capt. Battye, of the 21st N. I., he was observed by a party of rebels posted
in trees, and was known by his blue coat to be the bard sáhib or officer of the
highest rank. A volley was fired at him, but the bullets intended for him struck
Capt. Battye's horse, which fell dead, shot through in three places. On arriving
at the forts it was found that, though close to one another, there was no com-
munication between them, but that they were separated by a profound chasm.
It was resolved to attack Manohar, and as it was impossible to carry up heavy
guns into that difficult fortress, the only course was to storm. The scarp was
about 50 ft. high, and the only access was by steps cut in the rock. The height
of the forts above the plain was about 2,500 ft. £ noon, the company of the
17th and some Sipáhis, led by Lieut. Munbee of the Engineers, advanced gallantly
up the rocky steps, but the garrison rolled down on them heaps of large stones,
which swept away several of the Europeans, and struck the officer leading them on
the head. Lieut. Munbee was shot through the hand, and the storm failed. It
was then determined to renew the attack at night, but, under cover of the dark-
ness, the garrison, who did not amount to more than 30 or 40 men, let themselves
down over the wall with ropes and escaped. The troops now moved through the
jungles in the direction of Goa, clearing them of the rebels. They found many
stockades, and there was considerable danger in straying from the column, but
they did not meet with any serious resistance, and, after a harassing campaign of
three months, the rebellion was completely put down. The rebels were driven
into the territories of Goa, where they received shelter. After the lapse of some
years an amnesty was granted to them, but some desperate characters were ex-
ressly excluded from terms. These men have again raised the standard of rebellion
£ the late disorders in India, and although their attempts to rouse a general
spirit of revolt have failed, they still continue to elude pursuit in the dense jungles
which surround the province.
In January, 1845, a British officer was appointed Political Superintendent of
the Kolhapūr State, a brigade was stationed in the vicinity of the town, and
various measures of reform were introduced into the government with the happiest
results. Kolhapór, however, was one of the few places which, during the disastrous
rebellion of 1857, furnished proofs that the fidelity of even the Bombay army was
not altogether incorruptible. On the night of the 31st of July a sudden uproar
and firing was heard in the lines of the 27th Bombay N.I., stationed at Kolhapūr.
The night was dark, and heavy rain was falling. . The mutineers at first induced
by threats several sipáhis who were not in the plot to join them. They broke
open the store guard and carried off spare arms and ammunition. They then
proceeded to the quarter guard, released some prisoners, and carried off public
treasure to the amount of 45,000 rupees. ' then plundered the bázár and the
house of the Jam'adár Adjutant, whose mother they shot. Then, headed by


Southern Div. CASTES-EMPLOYMENTS OF THE NATIVES. 393
Rámji Shershat, a Maratha of huge stature, they went to Major Rolland's house,
into which they poured a volley, and afterwards visited other officers' houses, but
luckily without encountering any European. Capt. M'Culloch with several junior
officers now proceeded to the lines and endeavored to rally round them some
of the loyal men, but was obliged to fall back on Báorá (Bowrah), the civil
station, where the local corps was under arms. Reinforced with some troops of
the S. Maratha Horse, the party returned to the Mess house; but, after some
ineffectual efforts at restoring order, retired once more on Bāorá. Next morn-
ing a party under Col. Maughan and Capt. Schneider, proceeded to a fortified
house in the suburbs of £" where some rebels had taken post, but, after
exchanging a few shots, retired. Col. Maughan now telegraphed to Sátárá for
aid, and Capt. Kerr immediately started to his assistance with 50 men of the
S. £ and reached Kolhapur, 76 m. off, in 26 hours. Meantime the
mutineers, having left the station, fell in with Lieut. Norris and Ensigns Stubbs
and Heathfield near the Phunda Ghat, and barbarously murdered them. On the
9th of August, the rebels, being hard pressed for food, moved back on Kolhapūr;
and some of them, having thrown themselves into the same square building in the
suburbs from before which Col. Maughan had, on the 1st, retired, were there
next day attacked by Capt. Kerr with a party of his horse and 60 volunteers of
the 27th N. I., and, after a desperate defence, were all cut to pieces. Others of
the mutineers were destroyed by the villagers, and in a short time the whole body,
about 170 in all, were annihilated. It was then discovered that an extensive plot
had been formed for a general rising in the S. Marātha country, and several
executions took place in consequence. Among those executed was the Havaldar
Major of the 29th N. I., who was blown from a gun on the 20th of August. In
consequence of these disturbances, Col. Le Grand Jacob was sent down to take
supreme command in the S. Maratha country; and, under his vigorous control,
the crisis of the rebellion was successfully met. A subsequent rising at Kolhápar
was repressed instantaneously, and signal punishment was inflicted on the rebels.
The great mass of the population in this division are Hindús. There are a
great number of aboriginal races, whose customs and languages deserve more
attention than has yet been given to them. The names of 52 different wander-
ing tribes are given in Major Graham's Report of £, whose customs are
very peculiar, but have not yet been satisfactorily described. Besides these, there
are the Garkaris and Pataks, who are the ancient soldiers of Sivaji, and are
a brave, hardy, and independent race. The Jains also are numerous in this divi-
sion. They worship Shiva under the form of a naked image, and abstain from
animal food and intoxicating liquors. They burn their dead, and despise their
Hinda brethren, with whom they will neither eat nor intermarry. -


394
Sect. II.
/ r
RouTE 15.—BoMBAY To saw ANT wadí.
ROUTE 15.
FROM BoMBAY, BY CHIPALüN, To RAT-
NÁGIRí (177. M. 5}. F.), AND THENCE
To SÄwANT WADí, BY RAJAPúR.
283 M. 5% F.
For particulars of this Route from
Bombay to Sondágarh, see Route 10.
MILITARY AUTHoRITY.—Officer com-
manding at Ratnāgiri-Ratnagiri.
CIVIL AUTHORITY—Collector at Rat-
nāgiri-Ratnagiri.
PLACES.
BOMBAY to SONDA-
GARH ................. • 9
KHAIR..... ..... 9
Murad ..................... 1
Parshurám Pagoda ...... 12
x n to Parshuram Wädi 0
x r to Máp, a suburb of
Chipalán .............. •
X ". . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
(a) CHIPALUN .........
x Kapsalwādi r. .........
Kalaura Khind............
Kalaura.....................
x n. to DAIWAL
Mándki ...
Palwā...........
x n. to Kokra
x Gad r. 140 yds. broad
AROLI.....................
Ambua ........... •-
x r. to Makjún............
Ascend Mahálungá Khind
Dingmi
16 5
9 5
10 0
0
0
1
2
3
1
2
2
1
3
1
1
2
1
2
|
A well and dh. ............ 10
x Sílá r. to Fansola...... 4
Mirjälä .....................
Cantonment begins ......
(b) RATNAGIRI b. p. o.
Rājwadi.....................
x Kálinda r.
Bhātea .....................
A well and dh.
A well and dh. .. -
A well and dh. ............
Paved descent
x r. to Golap...............
X *. . . . . . . . . . . .
X ". . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
PANWAS..................
}
0
}:-
PLACES.
x n and r. to Maulangă
X * ........................
x r. to Bhar ...
BINI .........
x Machóndir. -
Asolí ........................
Ascend hill to a Temple.
x r. to Kotapúr .........
X *..........
Ghotná
X *.................... -------
(c) x r. to RAJAPUR .
x Suknadir................
Satíáli -
Juátí ..... - - - - - - - - -
x Kanwir. ...............
(d) Kábarli £ visit
Vijayadurg, Viziadroog)
× "...........................
PATGA'ON. - - -
Tambhán ..................
X Seo r. 110 yds. broad.
Bagh ........................
Chandosí .
Walaudí....
Sirga'on Wäd
x Mithbás r.......
SALSI .........
X *..........
x Barni r..
Barní .......
X 77.... • -
X *...........................
x n, with steep banks ...
x n. to Warora
x Harni r.......
X Gad r......... -
SANTRUL ...............
x n. ra. to Málwan ......
Bordwi .....................
x Amardá r. 60 yds. broad
to Amardawādi .........
X 7?..... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . •- - -
Kondawádí
Wardài ..... -
x r. 110 yds. • * * * * - -
ONWALAGAON .........
x n. and passa Khind ...
x Atkairi r. 80 yds. wide
>< *. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Tors(ilí ....
Gáonáli .........
x Sewapúr r.
:
#
STAGES.
. F. M. F.
:
1
2
1
*
1
5
1
1
5
0
s


396
Sect. II.
RouTE 15.-BoMBAY To sáwANT w8Dí—RAJAPöR.
the nets are beautiful, and display their
fine athletic figures to advantage. They
stand in the bows of the canoes, leaning
slightly forward, with the nets gathered
up, the head turned back over the
shoulders, and with eyes glancing keenly
around in search of the shoal. The fish,
which is most delicious, is caught in
such numbers that a single net-caster
will fill his canoe in the course of the
morning, as many as 50 fish being taken
at a single cast, and quantities of the
fish are used to manure the rice fields.
At these times the deep sea fishing is
entirely neglected. The fishing is within
a short distance of the shore, just out-
side the breakers, and can be carried on
only when the water is sufficiently clear
to admit of the fish being readily seen.
In calm weather the water is as clear as
crystal; and it is a beautiful sight at
such times to watch the waves breaking
on the sands, which seem literally of
pearls, while the fleet of canoes is shoot-
ing hither and thither among the bright
waters, with a fisherman standing in the
bow of each boat in a picturesque atti-
tude, like a piece of Grecian sculpture.
The back-ground of this picture is formed
by a fishing village, with many boats
drawn up on the beach, nets drying on
the sand, huts nestled among groves of
cocoa nut and other trees, and the old
fort of Ratnagiri frowning over them.
The Kalinda r., just beyond Ratnā-
girí, is never fordable except at neap
tides, but is crossed in boats. The r.
and n, at Golap are likewise unfordable
at high water. Pinwas is a small
straggling village, with a few temples;
Maulangd a good sized village; Bhar
and Bini mere hamlets. Not far from
Bini is a pretty fishing village called
Saigameshwar, where two rivers meet,
with steep hills all round, and scenery
as attractive as can be found in the S.
Konkan. There is, also, at no great dis-
ance a tirth, or place of pilgrimage, of
some celebrity, called Waddwādi. Here is
a shrine of Ganpati, which draws from
Government a revenue of 1,200 rupees
per annum. A spring of fine water
oozes from the rock.
(c) Rajapur.—This is a very flourish-
ing place, and a great emporium, there
being good roads to Kolhapūr and
Belgáñw, and the Suknadi river, on
which the town is situated, being navig-
able for vessels of 450 khandis. The
exports are cloth, ght, and pepper," and
the imports dates, dried fruits, and iron.
There are about 1000 families resi-
dent, exclusive of strangers, who are
very numerous. A considerable quan-
tity of oil is made here from the sesa-
mum and the cocoa-nut. The manner
of extraction is somewhat primitive.
The trunk of a large tree forms the
mortar, and a branch the pestle, which
is made to revolve by a buffalo, driven
by a man. One such apparatus extracts
20 sirs of oil from sesamum, or 40 from
cocoa-nut, daily. The town of Rājāpār
is some miles up the first creek met with
to the N. of Vijayadurg. Still higher
up the creek, and about 1 m. above the
town, on the l.b. of the r. is a hot
spring, which gushes from a cow's head
carved in stone, at the base of a hill
about 100 ft. high, which joins with the
general range of the Konkan. The
mouth of the spring is 8in, in diameter.
The color of the water is dark, and it is
strongly mineral. According to the
natives, its temperatnre never varies.
Major Wingate, on the morning of the
21st of July, 1850, found it to be 109°,
and Dr. Wilson states that it boils an
egg easily, and that the water is too
hot for bathing. It appears to be a
similar # to those at Māhār, Dá-
bhul, and other places in this direction.
On the hill above, about half a mile
further on, are 14 singular, intermittent
springs, which are reported to flow only
during a part of the year. They com-
mence in December and January, but
not simultaneously, and continue flow-
ing for several months, when the water
diminishes, and at last disappears. This,
however, does not appear to be the in-
variable course, as in 1849 they did not
flow at all, and at other times all or
some of them have flowed at uncertain
intervals. A small well or cistern has
been built around each spring, but when
the spring is in full flow the water
passes this barrier. The temperature
* Oriental Christian Spectator, April, 1834.


Bombay. ROUTE 15. —BOMB.\Y T0
s.iw.i1\':r W.»i1_)l—-VIJAYADUBG. 397
of the water in one of these wells was
found by Major Wingate to be 84°.
(mi) Vg';'a_1/adurg (V1ziadro0g).—From
Kabizrli or Roydpar it is an easy journey
of some 12 m. to visit the ancient fort
of V1_7ia3/adurg, “fort of victory ;" or
Gheriah as it is called by some En-
glish writers, the word being merely a
corruption of ga_rhz', “fort.” This
place has some historical interest at-
taching to it, having been captured by
the great Clive (then Colonel Clive) and
Admiral Watson, on the 13th of Feb.
1756. The whole afl‘a.ir was extremely
characteristic of those times, when the
ideas of honorable procedure were al-
most as lax among the English as
among the Marathas. A British arma-
ment, consisting of three ships of the
line, one of 50, and another of 44 guns,
with several armed vessels belonging to
the Bombay marine, having on board
800 English soldiers and 1000 sipahis,
sailed from Bombay, early in February,
to reduce Vijayadurg, the stronghold of
the piratical chief Tfilaji Anglia. They
were to eo-o erate with the Peshwéls
troops under lihaiidaji Mimkar, and the
fruits of success were of course to be
shared, But a committee of ten officers,
of which Admirals Watson and Pococke,
Mr. Hough and Colonel Clive were
members, had, before leaving Bombay
harbor, agreed to share all the prize
property taken, without any recognition
of the Maratha claims to a portion.
When the English fleet appeared, A'n-
gria repaired to the Maratha camp to
negotiate for a surrender. The English
pronounced this an infraction of the
terms of alliance, though on what
grounds it is difficult to see. Admiral
Watson attacked the sea-face of the
fort on the 12th of February, while
Clive, the same night, landed with the
troops, so as to cut off any communi-
cation between the Marathas and the
garrison. The Maratha general en-
deavoured to bribe Mr. Hough to get
the Admiral to suspend operations; and,
failing in that, he offered to Captain
Andrew Buchanan, commanding the
picquets, a bill on Bombay for 80,000
rupees, to permit him with a few men
to pass into the fort.» The bribe was

rejected; but the Bombay Government
were so struck with the singular honesty
of their otficer, that they presented him
with a gold medal in consideration of
his extraordinarily good behaviour. The
fort surrendered on the 13th, when the
captors decided that the Marathas had
no right to share, and divided the prize
property, amounting to £100,000,among
themselves. Tfilaji A’ngria was taken,
putin irons, and imprisoned in one of
the Peshwa’s hill forts near Raigarh.
A few months afterwards, the fort was
given up to the Peshwa, and did not
revert to the English till 1818. Vijaya-
durg is one of the few good harbors on
the W. coast of India. The anchorage
is landlocked, and sheltered from all
winds. There is no bar at the en-
trance, the depths being from 7 to 5
fathoms, and from 4 to 3 inside at low
water. The rise of the tide is about
7 ft. The fort is in good preservation,
and is one of the finest specimens of an
Indian fortress to be seen in the W.
Presidency. It has a double wall, with
flanking towers, rotected by ditches.
There is a well 0 sweet water inside,
and also a large tank, the bottom of
which is said to have been lined with
lead. The English batteries were on
the N. side of the creek about 1200 yds.
oif, too distant to have done much
damage. The wall on that side has
many shot marks, but there is no in-
dication of a breach, or other serious
injury. There is a large temple within
a mile of Vijayadurg, which is very
picturesquely situated at the bottom of
a ravine, and is worth a visit. Angria’s
dock is 2 m. to the E. of Vijayadurg,
and is merely a wet dock with a ma-
sonry entrance. It has no gates. The
entrance was probably built up on the
admission of a vessel, and the water
afterwards drained off to the level of
low tide, when the remainder was
pumped out, or allowed to evaporate.
Pa’tga'o1i is a village of moderate size,
with a large temple, near which is good
ground for encamping. After leaving
this place other temples will be passed at
Tmnbhdn. Beyond this is the Sea river,
which is fordable at low water. Three
small boats are kept for crossing at other


398 RouTE 15.—BoMBAY To saw ANT w8pí-sAwANT waDí. Sect. II.
times. The bed of the r. is sand and
mud. The places between it and Salsi
are small hamlets. Salsi itself is a
village of moderate size, with two tem-
ples so large as to be capable of ac-
commodating a regiment. The Mith-
bas, or “sweet-smelling” river has
bad, stony, and difficult banks. Beyond
Barni, the country becomes very jungly.
The Harni and Gad rivers are crossed
in boats, but the latter is fordable in
the fair season. Santrül is a small vil-
lage with some temples, near which is
good encamping ground. At the first
n, after passing it, is a very small
hamlet, and here a road branches off to
Malwan, which is a large place, with a
population of 10,000. Good iron ore is
found here, an account of which, and of
the smelting process, will be found in the
Bom. As Jour. for 1844, p. 435. The
fort, called also Sindidurg, was built by
Sivaji in 1662. In 1756 it was taken by
Major Gordon and Commodore Watson,
'' called Fort Augustus," but was next
year restored to the Rājā of Kolhapir,
and finally ceded to the English in
1812. It stands on an island, which is
low, and at a little distance not distin-
guishable from the mainland. The re-
maining places to Sãwant Wädi are
small villages. At Mangdon is a large
temple; and at Achera, not far off, is
a very sacred '' to Rāmeshwar,
which was endowed by Angria with a
yearly revenue of 3000 rupees. The
rivers between ' and Sãwant
Wädi are all unfordable in the rains,
but boats are procurable.
(e) Sdwant Wadi (Sawuntwarree).—
According to the Bombay Route Book
there were, in 1851, 4000 houses in
Sãwant Wadi, but Mr. H. L. Ander-
son's census of the 30th October, 1852,
makes the population 9,118. The place,
however, is of more importance than the
number of its inhabitants would indi-
cate, being the capital of a province
held by a martial and turbulent people,
and abounding in natural fortresses,
which present great difficulties to an
* Grant Duff, vol. iii. p.99. In the Selections
from the Records of Bombay, vol.x. N.S., p.3, it
is stated that it was the Fort of Réri (Räiree),
the name of which was so changed.
invader. Its situation also is central
between Málwan, Vengurla,and Belgáñw.
The traveller's banglá is to the N.E. of
the fort, near the lines of the Sãwant
Wädi local corps. The fort is situated
13 m. E.N.E. of Wengurla, and 7 m.
N.N.W. from Banda. Its walls are of
loose stone and mud, and are much
dilapidated. It is of an irregular shape,
with roofed towers and curtains loop-
holed. The bastions are too much in-
jured to support ordnance, and there are
no embrasures. The entrances are three;
that on the N., which is the principal,
is flanked by two towers, but it is not of
any strength. There is a ditch on the
N.E. and S. sides, dry in the fair season,
but filled during the rains. On the W.
is a tank 280 yds. wide by 650 long,
which comes close to the wall. On the
three other sides trees and buildings
extend to within 25 yds. of the wall.
There are several guns, but only two,
which are brass, mounted on carriages,
and all are unserviceable. There are
several wells of good water inside. All
the buildings are tiled. The local corps
lines are outside on the N., and about
280 yds., from the N. entrance. The
fort could make no resistance to regular
troops.
This place is interesting, as having
been the residence of one of the oldest
Marātha chieftains, the Sir Desáis of
the Wädi territory, a branch of the
ancient family of Bhonslé, whom the
English in their papers of the last cen-
tury termed the Bouncello. The first
chieftain of the Wädi Bhonslés known
to English writers is Māng Säwant,
who three centuries ago rebelled against
the King of Bijapar, and repulsed every
force sent to reduce him. After his
death he was deified, and his math or
shrine is still to be seen at the village
of Haraud, which he made his capital.
His successors, being destitute of his
energy and prowess, relapsed into feuda-
tories of Bijapur. In 1627, Khem
Sãwant became chief, and was succeeded
in 1640 by his son Som Sãwant, who
died in 18 months, and was succeeded
by his brother, Lakem, who died
in 1665 without issue. His brother
Phond Sawant then became chief,


400 noon-2 15.—BonsAr T0 s.-iwsur w.i1_>i—s.'iwmr wini. Sect. II.
as the Kolhapiir force was removed,
caused Lakshmi Bai to be imprisoned,
and had her son Bhaii Sahib strangled
in his bed. Durga Bai II., widow of
Khem Sawant, now became Regent, for
Lakshmi died of ill-treatment, and
Phond Sawant, the son of Som Sawant,
was raised to the throne. In 1809
Phond expelled the Nepani chief, but
several of the minor chiefs now became
so powerful that they could not be re-
duced. They attacked foreign powers,
and, among others, the English, who, in
1812, through Captain Schu ler, the
envoy at Goa, com elled the ir Desai
to cede the fort of engurla. Soon after
Phond Sawant died, and Durga Bai,
the Regent, set up his son Khem Sa-
want, who was but eight years old. In
1812 the Wadi troops took the fort of
Bharatgarh, but were immediately com-
elled by an English force under Colonel
owse to restore it. In 1815 the Bri-
tish took the districts of Warad and
Maland, with all the villages to the N.
of the Karli river, and gave some revenue
grants in exchange. In 1817 the Por-
tuguese made an inroad, in revenge for
which the Wadi troops plundered the
fort of Tirakol. The Portuguese then
laid siege to Réri, but, after a siege of
27 days, were obliged to retire. In
1819 a force under Sir W. Grant Keir
took \Vadi and Réri, and compelled the
Sir Desai to cede the forts of Réri and
N cwti, the whole line of coast from the
Karli river to the Portuguese territory,
and the Path and Arganw districts.
This treaty was signed on the 17th of
February, 1819, but on the same day of
the year following the English restored
Path and Arganw. This was effected
through Captain Hutchinson, who con-
tinue to manage political relations with
Sawant Wadi till the end of 1820, when
that duty was assigned to the Judge of
Ratnagiri, and in 1822 to the Collector
of that province. In the same year
Khem Sawant, under the name of Bapn
Sahib, assumed the government, bein
than in his 19th year. In 1828 Phon
Sawant raised a rebellion against him,
and again in 1832 and 1838, when the
English took the mana ement of the
country into their own ands, and ap-
ointed a Political Superintendent. Two
ormidable invasions now followed, led
b rebels harbored in the Goa State.
Tlhese insurrections being put down, a
local corps was raised in 1839,* and a
year after all regular British troops were
withdrawn, the country being greatly
tranquillized. The finances of the pro-
vince were also brought into order, and
the debt to the British Government in
great part paid ofl'. This rosperous
state of things continued till t e autumn
of 1844, when the disturbances in the
Kolhapfrr country produced a. corres-
ponding efl‘ect in Wadi. On the 10th
of October, the Garkaris in the fort of
Manohar descended into the plains,
carried ofl' two native officials, and
burned the public a rs at Gotas.
Next night they attac a detachment
of the local corps at Dukan Wadi, but
were repulsed. On the 13th, Major
Benbow, commanding the local corps,
marched ainst the insurgents at Mano-
har and alltangna forts, belonging to
Kolha fir, but on the frontier of Sa-
want adi. The rebels were in too
great strength to be put down, and out-
rages and disorder now became general.
In November, Phond Sawant, e. chief of
note, joined the insurgents with his eight
sons; and on the 16th of that month,
Anna Sahib, eldest son of the Sir Desai,
a youth of 16, left Wadi by night and
went ofl' to Manohar. On this Major
Benbow fell back to head quarters at
Wadi, and the whole province broke
out into open rebellion. On the night
of the 19th a body of rebels marched up
to the gates of Wadi, and opened a fire
of matehlocks, but Major Benbow, who
had been reinforced by a company of the
10th N. I. under Captain Hume, and 60
men of the 16th Madras N. I., immedi-
atel sallicd out upon them, and they
ma e off with all speed. On the 22nd,
Captain Skinner, with 200 of the 7th
N. 1., proceeding to Simgli, near Phond
Sawant's village, was attacked b the
rebels led by the sons of that chie , and
obliged to retreat with the loss of three


' At first, consisting of 426 rank and file, 13
Hnvaldars, 6 Jam’adars. and 2 European com.
rhissloned cmeers- and since increased to 520
‘, rank and file, 32 _ avalaars. S Jmnhdnrs, and
; S F.m"opean omoers.


Bombay.
401
RouTE 16.—sAwANT wApí T0 G0A.
killed and 22 wounded, including Ensign
Collier. Lieut. Bate, of the 7th N. I.,
with 200 men more of that corps, was
then sent out to reinforce Capt. Skinner,
but the united detachment were com-
lled to fall back on Mándkhol. In
anuary, 1845, the disorder was still on
the increase, and a small party of ca-
valry with two officers moving from
Belgähw to Vengurla were attacked, and
Ensign Faure, of the 2nd Eur, L.I. was
killed. On the 16th of January, 1845,
Lieut.-Colonel Outram entered Wadi
with all the forces he could assemble,
and, as has been before shewn (Prel.
Inf, p. 392), after some months of
harassing operations, drove the rebels
into the jungles in the Goa territory,
whence the Portuguese authorities
declined to remove them. In the
present rebellion, although the old
malcontents have endeavoured to excite
disaffection in the province, Sãwant
Wädi has created no serious alarm
to the Bombay Government. The local
corps and the £ troops have con-
tinued loyal, and the chiefs, who have
tried to bring about a revolt, have been
obliged to betake themselves to the
almost impenetrable forests under the
Ghats, where they still lurk.
Manohar.—Before leaving Wadi, a
visit may be paid to the hill-fort of
Manohar, which is a solid mass of rock,
and perhaps one of the strongest forts
in India.” It is situate about 16 m.
N.N.E. of Sãwant Wádí, and constitutes
an outwork of the Konkan against the
Dakhan, to which, however, it is joined
by a narrow ridge about 2 m. long. Its
shape is angular. Its greatest length,
which is from E. to W., is 440 yds, and
its breadth 350 yds. Its height above
the sea is 2,500 ft. It has two strong
gates to a single entrance, which is ap-
proached by a flight of steps hewn in
the solid rock. To the W. is the much
smaller fort of Mansantosh on part of
the same ridge, separated by a chasm.
In skilful hands it would be impregna-
ble. Until 1845 it belonged to Kolhá-
pór, but after the rebellion of that year
it was annexed to Sawant Wadi.
* Selections from Bombay Records, No. x.,
N.S. p. 33. .
ROUTE 16.
FRow SAwANT WADí To GoA.
62 M. 6 F.
MILITARY AUTHORITY.—Officer Com-
manding at Sãwant Wádí — Sdwant
Wadi, to Bétse. Thence to Goa, Portu-
guese authorities—Goa.
CIVIL AUTHORITY.—To Betse; Poli-
tical Superintendent at Säwant Wädi—
Sawant Wadi. Thence to Goa—Portu-
guese authorities—Goa.
PLACES. STAGES.
M. F. M. F
SAWANT WADr to
TALAURA......... ...... 8 4 8 4
Málgáñw... ... • 4 0
BANDA b ... 6 6 10 6
x Kahrā r................... 7 6
SASOLI b .. 2 4 10 2
BETSE b ..... . 6 0 6 0
ASSANWADA ............ 12 0 12 2
(a)PANJIM or NEW GOA 180 150
62 6
The country round Talaurd is beauti-
ful and well cultivated. After passing
Banda, which is a large village with a
ruined fort on the Terrakol river, it be-
comes jungly and rugged. The Terra-
kol river is affected # the tide, navig-
able at high water, and fordable at low,
but not during the rains.
Sasoli is a mere hamlet, as is Betse,
From Assanwada to Panjim, the best
way of proceeding is by boat, and here
the traveller will behold scenery which
has scarce its parallel in India. It is,
indeed, almost perfect, as, in addition to
an exquisite disposition of land and
water, it combines the luxuriance of
tropical vegetation with the architec-
tural embellishments of civilized Europe.
Numerous villages, embosomed in beau-
tified groves, and adorned with fine
churches and other symmetrical build-
ings, meet the eye in every direction,
In addition to this attraction of scenery,
which all can enjoy, there is besides for
the sportsman such abundance of game
as is to be found no where else, perhaps,
in the world. The snipe shooting is
quite unequalled, and woodcocks, par-
tridges, quails, and floricans are very
numerous. The larger game, up to the


402
ROUTE 16.—s.iwsr~'r w.i1_>i 'ro GOA—PA1\'JI1I- Sect. II.
royal tiger and buffalo, are also to be ;
had in great plenty.‘
(a) 1-’my'im, or Panga’1im_,or_ New Goa,
the Pangawm of Thornton, is situate near
the middle of the N. side of the island y
of Goa, about 3 m. from Old Goa, and
nearly the same distance from Cabo,
which is the extreme point of laud on
the right at the entrance of the harbor.
There is no traveller’s bangla, but an
empty house is easily procurable, and]
everything is very cheap. The town is
built upon a narrow ledge, between a
hill to the S. and the Rio de Goa to the
N., an arm of the sea, which stretches
several miles from W. to E. A quay
of hewn stone,1~ well built, but rather
too narrow for ornament or use, lines
the S. bank of the estu , which is not
half-a-mile in breadth. Panjim reminds
the traveller of Cape Town.1 The
houses are in general very substantial,
and painted white. Many have two
stories, and united conical and lofty
roofs of red tile for every apartment in
the upper story, and are surrounded by
large court-yards overgrown with cocoa-
nut trees. The habitations of the poor
alone consist solely of a sin le story.
The glare from the white wa ls, which
receive a new coat regularly every year
after the rains, is most painful. The
streets of Panjim are full of swine, dusty
and dirty, of a disagreeable brick color,
and, where aved, the pavement is old
and bad. T e doors and window frames
of almost all the houses are painted green,
and none but those of the very richest
inhabitants have glass windows. Most
of them have balconies, but these present
none of the gay scenes observable in
Ital and Spain. On the eminence be-
hin the town is a small telegraph, and
half -way down the hill the Igreja
(church) de Conceicao, a lain build-
ing, but beautifully situate . The edi-
fices along the creek are the Palaces of
the Viceroy, that of the Archbishop, the
Contadorin or Accountant’s Office, and
* In Capt. Joaquin: Jose Clellia Kol’s Report
on Portuguese ludia, published by the Bom-
bay Government, the white bear and the cha-
moia are enumerated among the animals of
the forests!
Burton’: Goannd the Blue Moimtains. p. 29.
Oriental Chrutian Spectator, April, 1834, p.


I
116.
the Alfandega or Custom House, all re-
markable rather for their vast size than
for the elegance of their architecture.
The Viceroy maintains little state, and
his salaryis but 18,000 rupees per imnum,
which, however, is worth double what it
would be in Bombay. There are scarcely
any carriages, and the better classes go
about on a sort of litter curtained with
green wax cloth, and slung on a bambu
pole, which is carried on the shoulders
of two bearers. It is called a mam-heel.
In such a conveyance, or on horseback,
if he can bear the heat, the traveller
mayvisit the sights of New Goa. Among
the principal of these is the V¢'cero_1/s
Palace. This building was probably
erected about the year 1758, when a
Viceroy named Albuquerque transferred
the viceregal residence from Old Goa to
Panjim. It stands near the shore of the
harbor, and is a large pile with an ex-
tensive library, a private chapel, and a
suite of lofty and spacious saloons, with
enormous windows, but without fumi-
ture. Here is a very interesting collec-
tion of portraits of all the Governors
and Viceroys. Among these the most
remarkable are those of Alfonso de
Albuquerque, Vasco de Gama, John de
Castro, and Constantine de Braganza.
This latter Vicero refused to accept
from the King o Pegu the sum of
300,000 cruzados for a monkey's tooth,
which had been adored at J afuapatanani
as a relic of Buddha. At the ti.ine
of Lieut. Burton's visit in 1848 these
pictures had been much injured and dis-
gured by the daubings of a miserable
artist who had been commissioned to re-
store the coloring. Not very far from
the Palace, in a small square opposite
the barracks, under a white-washed
dome, is a statue of Alfonso deAlIm-
guerque. It has been much ed at
different times, and on one occasion at
least it has been requisite to send to
Portugal to get the fractures repaired.
The Barracks are a large building, in
the form of an irregular square, fronting
the Rio. Here the Sawant Wadi rebels,
and among them Phond Sawant, with
his eight stalwart sons, were for a. 1
time confined. The Library is situate
between the statue of Albuquerque and


Bomlva/y.
403 '
acorn l6.—SAWANT wini T0 GOA-—-BIBANDAB.
the Viceroy’s Palace. There are about
2000 volumes, most of them ecclesias-
tical works. The collection has not
been satisfactorily examined by any Eng-
lish visitor, and a good -account of the
books is a. desideratum. According to
Lieut. Burton there are a few old books
of travel, but he gives no description of
them. The Corso is at the W. end of
the town on the shore. Seats are erected
wherever there is a pretty point de cue.
In 1851 Panjim had 3,600 houses, and
a population of 9,500.* The garrison
consists of a Regiment of Artillery, a
company of Moors or Sipahis, and a
Contingent. The whole militar force
of the Goa State is about 3,300, o whom
400 are Europeans.
The Harbor.—-The geo aph of Goa
is the op robrium of nglis map-
makers. ‘he position of places, names
of rivers, towns and provinces, are
given incorrectly, or not at all. The
Report of Captain J oaquim Kol, pub-
lished by the Bombay Government, is
meagre, defective, and incorrect, and it
is very desirable that some one should
supply a good map of the whole terri-
ry, with some statistics that can be
relied upon. In the Report above men-
tioned “the harbor of Goa is said to be
formed by the extremities of two pen-
insulas, Salsette and Bardez, and to be
divided by the pro'eotion from the
island of Goa called abo (cape), which
leaves space on both sides, at A oada
and Mormugao, for ships to anc or."
At both these places ships may lie from
September to the end of May, without
any dan r, and in 3% to 5 fathoms
water. n the monsoon, with a N .W.
wind, ships can remain at Mormugao.
The harbor is, upon the whole, the best
on the \V. coast of India. The streams
Sinquerim, Zuary, and Mandovi, dis-
ch e themselves into it. Of these
the first is but 3% m. long, the second
38}, and thethird 39. They all abound
in excellent fish, of which the pomfret
is the best. There are no less than 20
islands in the Goa territory, of which
Goa, Tissuvady, Chorao, Divar, and St.
Esteram are the principal, All the
N'sSelecl1'ona from Bombay Records, N 0. x.,

the harbor is most
In the Isles there
in Sal-
country adjoinin
densely populate .
are 989 persons to the sq. m. ;
sette 945; in Bardez 1,331. In ex-
pl-orintg the harbor a row may be taken
st o all to the W., to the Aldeas or
villages of St. Agnes and Verim. The
shore will be found thickly inhabited.
Handsome residences appear here and
there among the scattered line of churches,
and cottages, half-concealed from view
by the towering trees, or thrown for-
ward into clear relief by the green
background. At St. Agnes there is a
vast straggling edifice, formerly the
archiepiscopal palace; Verim is a large
Hindfi village.
Ribandar and 0hora'o.—Ribandar is
about 2 m. E. of Panjim, and is con-
nected with it by a long stone bridge,
built by the Viceroy Don Miguel do
N oronha. Many respectable Portuguese
reside at Ribandar, and it seems to have
grown upon the ruins of its neighbor,
San Pedro or Panelly, an old village de-
po ulated by fever. Here is a noble
pa ace, anciently inhabited by the arch-
bishops, containing a library of 2,000
volumes, which are going rapidly to
decay. But very few of the works
are modern. Among the MSS. is a
translation of the Four Gospels into
Arabic. Close by is the palace of the
Viceroys, called the Oasa de Polvora,
from an adjoining manufactory of gun-
powder. On the wall of the church is
a figure of a ship in distress, with the
Virgin Mary coming to its aid. Two
crosses are planted near the shore, which
mark the alleged length of the ship de-
icted on the wall. The story is, that
uring a storm oil" the coast of Mozam-
bique, the Yirgin was appealed to, and
she responded to the prayer by con-
veying the ship in one night to Goa.
In memory of this deliverance, she is
usually invoked by the crews of vessels
in distress as Nessa Senhora do Ribandar.
Chorao is a small island opposite Ri-
bandar, which is but thinly opulated,
owin to its insalubrity. 'lhe pallid
comp exion of the residents tells how
injurious is the malaria of the place.
It was formerly the noviciate place of
the Jesuits, their other clerical insti-


Bombay. uorrn 16.-—siiwA1vr w,'u_>'1 I0 GOA-—1‘]IE CATHEDRAL.
405
public buildings. The landing-place is
a little beyond the arsenal, and com-
mands a full vicw of the cathedral and
other conspicuous edifices. The wharf,
which is a long and broad road, lined
with double rows of trees, and faced
with stone, opposite the harbor, leads to
the palace-gate. This is asolitary gate-
way on the right of the wharf, which
towers above a huge mass of ruins
flanking the entrance to the Strada
Diretta, or “straight street,” so called
as most of the streets in Goa were
built in a curve. In an up er niche
is a statute of St. Catherine, t e patron
Saint of Goa, the city having been
taken by the Portuguese on her da .
Beneath this statue is one of Vasco e
Gama, which Lieut. Burton* calls
“grotesque,” in classic garb. Under
this arch the Vieeroys, on the day of
their investiture, passed in pomp to the
palace. The view from this point is
exquisite. On the one side are the
grand ruins of the deserted city, and,
towards the N., the dark hills on the
opposite side of the harbor, canopied
with mist; at their foot a rich plain
embroidered with silver streams, and
close at hand the bright expanse of the
harbor estuary, whose tiny waves ripple
against the lon stone barrier of the
wharf. Beyon the gateway, a level
road, once a populous thoroughfare,
leads to the Terra di Sabaio, a large
square fronting the Se Primaqial, or
Cathedral of St. Catherine, and flanked
by the Case Santa or Palace of the
Inquisition. Before visiting these build-
ings the traveller may turn to the left,
ascend a. heap of ruins, and see the ex-
cavation which marks the site of the
once splendid Viceregal Palace. It
covered two acres, but even the founda-
tions have been razed, and in their place
is a wilderness of thorns and poisonous
shrubs, among which lurk the jackal and
the snake. The Ohurch of the Palace,
or St. Oaietan, however, remains. It is
an exact model of St. Peter’s at Rome.
The roof is arched, the convent and
cloisters small. The principal altar is
very richly decorated. It belongs to
* Goa and the Blue Mountains. D. 60.

the Theatins, or order of St. Co.'etan,*
which was instituted in Italy y St.
Cajetan of Thiena and John Carafia
(Paul IV.), Bishop of Theato. They
were established at Goa in the middle
of the 17th century, and were soon
joined by many natives, those of brak-
manical descent alone being admitted.
At the time of Dr. Wi.lson’s visit in
1834 there were no Europeans in the
convent, yet, very curious to relate, the
brahman friars were the most renowned
eonfessors in the colon . They live
almost entirely on the o erings of their
flock, seldom exceed 15 in number, and,
owing to the unhealthiness of the spot,
are short-lived.
The Oasw Santa or Inquisition was
foundedin 1560, and su pressed in 1812,
at the representation 0 the British. A
heap of ruins, to the top of which the
visitor may scramble, marks the spot
where its three gates stood. Not even
a shrub grows among the ruins, which,
broken and black with age, seem to be
under the influence of some special
curse. Of the walls, where so many
hundreds of miserable victims lan-
guished and died, scarce a trace is left.
The Cat/1edral.—Claudius Buchanan
remarked of the metropolitan church of
Goa,—“It is worthy of one of the
principal cities of Euro e,” and this
observation has been ec oed by later
travellers. There is nothing, however,
in the exterior to strike the spectator;
it is not till he enters that an impression
is made. The body of the church is
200 feet long, and 80 broad, exclusive
of a row of chapels on either side, but
Dr. Wilson makes the height to the top
of the vault only 40. The principal
altar is very richly adorned with gilt
pillars, pilasters, and images, and along
the sides of the church are 14 minor
altars; The seats are few, the anes of
the windows small, and made 0 mother
of pearl. Divine service is performed
twice a day. The establishment con-
sists of an archbishop, a dean, a re-
centor, an archdcacon, ten canons, our
semi-prebondaries, two quaternarians,
twelve chaplains, and several treasurers
H3 Oriental Christian Spectator, Anril,1834.i1-


406
norm: 16.-—siwmr wini T0 GOA-—THE cmmcrn-:s. Sect. II.
and assistants. The total stipendiary
revenue is 15,582 Rs. per zmnum. The
total number of communicants at Easter
is about 110. With the exception of
some good carving in wood, there is
nothing very striking in the decorations.
The pictures of martyrs and the frescoes
are in very indifferent taste.
The Aljava, or bishop’s prison, may
next be visited, where refractory or
erring priests are incarcerated, and then
the traveller may proceed to the
Nunnery of St. Monica. This is the
only nunuery in Goa, and was founded
b the cruel bigot Dom Fré Alexo de
enezes, Archbishop of Goa, about the
year 1600, and dedicated to the mother
of Augustine. The nuns are called
madres (mothers) by the natives, in
token of respect, and are supposed to
lead a ve austere life. The exterior
of the bu' ding is not remarkable, and
the cloisters cannot be visited. Euro-
pean ladies pay 1,000 Rs. entrance
money, and natives double that sum,
and the institution receives from
Government 1,000 Rs. annually. The
nuns, of whom, including novices, there
are about 30, occupy themselves in
making rosaries, sweetmeats, and pre-
serves.
The Augustinian Convent may next
be visited. M. Cottineau sa s of it,-
“Few cities in Europe can oust of a
finer edifice of the kind; the eloisters,
pillars, galleries, halls and cells, are all
most beautiful.” There is here a large
collection of portraits of the martyr
missionaries of the order, many of
which are well executed, and represent
the friars in the attitude of death.
There are about 1,600 books in the
library, but they are goin fast to decay.
Many of them are very ol and valuable,
and among the collection are most of
the old historians of the church referred
to by Mosheim. The view from the
turrets is entrancingly beautiful. The
Augustinians, 12 in number, came first
to Goa in 1572. They have a yearly
income of 16,000 Rs., exclusive of
1,500 Rs. allowed them by the Goa
Government. They are the most re-
spectable monks in the Catholic church,
and have several missions in the East

under their care. Their robes are
white, but were originally black. The
change was made on account of Luther's
defection.
The next building to be visited is the
church of Bom Jesus. It is a noble
edifice, built in the form of a cross.
Here is the splendid shrine of St.
Francis Xavier, which is hardly sur-
passed b anything of the sort in the
world. t is of copper, richly gilt and
ornamented, and placed within a silver
enclosure. It rests upon a highly
wrought altar of Italian marble, and
the hfe and miracles of the saint are
represented around in different com-
partments in basso relievo. The whole
was executed by European artists of the
highest order. There is a vera ejigies
of the Apostle of India on the S. of the
tomb, and a statue of solid silver, which
is not exhibited. This superb shrine
and silver ornaments were presented by
a Queen of Portugal! Xavier died in
the island of Santian, in the Chinese
seas, in 1552. His body was brought
to Goa in 1554, and was exposed to
public view till 1780, when it was
locked up in its present receptacle.
The Church of the Dominicans is also
a large and handsome buildi , and
there are many ictures, some by talian
masters. The est is the trial of our
Saviour. One of the lictors is repre-
sented holding a pair of s ectacles.
The convent contains 25 mon s. The
Dominicans came to Goa shortly after
its conquest by the Portuguese, but
their convent was not established till
1548. The college of Thomas Aquinas
belong? to them. There are several
other uildings worthy inspection, such
as the Church and Convent of the
Carmelites, and the Church and Convent
of the Franciscans.
Goa is the cheapest of all places. A
large family can hve most comfortably
on £100 a year, and three times that
sum is afliuence. The Portuguese, who
come from Euro e, are called Reinols,
while the native ortuguese are termed
Oastissos, and the mixed race, sprung
from inter-marriage with natives, Meg-
tici. The higher orders breakfast be-
‘ Forbes’ Oriental Memoirs, vol. i., p. 188.


408 RoUTE 17-60A To sáTARA. Sect. II.
PLACES, STAGES. PLACES STAGES.
M. F. M. F. M. F. M. F.
X steep "..................... 0 6 Mangalwar Penth......... 3 6
Kaddígátá .. 0 4 KOLHAPUR CANTON-
Belgündí ....... 4 6 MENT b. p. o. ......... 0.6 9 5
JANGWAD .... 2 4 11 7 | N. or Shukrwar Gate of
Siparmatti .................. 1 5 Kolhapur to Bawra ... 25
* * ................ ........... 04 x Panchgangár. 200 yds.
f) KALADGI, b.p.o. ... 9.4 11 5 broad..................... 2 3}
rom Kaladgi S. gate, TOP ........ 24 74}
close to cantonment, to Wattár n. .. ... 4 44
Gatparbá r. 210 yards Kintí .............. - - - - 1 1
wide....................... . 0 7 x Warnå r. to Kanai-
Ningapúr.. 1 4 gahw .................... 2 1
Kātrāj..... 0 5 TANDUL WADI (sup-
: "....... 1 3 plies scarce) ...... ... 16} 9 5
Kopå ... 0 6 Itkar ............. 3 2
Algundi ..... 1 5 Kamerí .... ..... 2 7
WAJRMATT 5 0 11 6 || Masūd Wadi.... 2 3}
Edalf-Ingalghi .... 2 2 Peñth............. 1 7
MUDHAL .......... . 47 71 | NERLA.......... 2 13 12 5
Sorgâmí ..... . 2 1 Kāshígáñw 33}
× 74. ........... . 34 x Mán r. .... 33}
Belagatti ..... 4 1 Watúr .. 0.3%
2< *. .......................... 0 3 Nandlapür.. 33}
MALINGAPUR ......... 23 124 KARHAD ............... 4 1 14 7
Bídalli.. • - 0.4 x Koiná r. to Korsi...... 2 1
X *. ........... 3 5 Belaura ........... - *- 37%
Handigund..... 0 3 Warádà..................... 16}
Saltânpür ..... ... 2 2 x Man r. 100 yds. broad 14%
Pálanbhánwá ...... •- 1 6 UMRUZ 03 9 6}
MUGHULKHOR . ... 21 105 | x Târlă r. 180 0. 5
x n. to Idgal .......... . 3 0 ATIT ..................... 8 2 8 7
x n. to Alagwādi . . 4 3 Latna........... ....... 30%
x n. to Nirgundí.... 2 1 x Urmuri r. 80 yds. wide
x n. to Bumnal .... 1 6 to Borgañw ............ 0 5
Passa Khind . 0 3 Pass the Kurul Khind... 60
RAIBAG.H., 26 14 3 | SATARARESIDENCY
Pass a Khind 0 5 9 p. 9................... 26%. 124
Erdaráí ..... - 3 3
Naslápiir.......... 2 5 356 7
YAKSHAMBA • 5 6 123 The route from Panjim to Assanwädá
Narwādi .......... 1 7 has been already described (p. 401).
s' ::::::::::::::::::::: 3 2 The rest of the journey to Belgáñw
x Wedganga r. 150 yards presents scenery scarcely less attractive,
wide 0 4 though not so unique. For about 6 m.
Janwār £: 1 6 from Assanwädá the country is highly
Borgáñw Wadi 2 4 cultivated and populous. The Portu.
RONY:CHF WADI ... 1 # 114 guese territory is then quitted, and the
Tallandgi::::::......... •- 6 2 road enters a dense jungle of high
HALLASWA.. ... ? 8 90 trees, which continues to the foot of the
Nerlí ........... 1 7 Rám Ghāt. The ascent of the Ghāt is
Tāmgāńw ..... 0 7 very steep, and the peculiar character of
#w:# ... 0 3 the escarpment, which divides the table
jlechi Wadi .........., .... 2 0 land of the Dakhan from the Końkan,


Bombay.
409
RouTE 17.–GoA To sáTARA-BELGANw.
is” nowhere more remarkable than here.
Viewed from the top of the Ghat the
summits of the highest neighboring
hills appear on a level with one another
and the observer, and seem to have
formed one tableland continuous with
the plain of trap on which Belgáñw is
situated, though now separated from
one another by deep and precipitous
ravines. These summits are all ta-
bular, but between and in the midst
of them are lower hills, whose summits
are conical. The forest that clothes
these hills abounds with game, and the
sportsman will find ample employment
or his rifle if he can afford time to halt.
The villages all the way to Belgáñw
are small, the country, after leaving the
Ghats, open and undulating, with culti-
vation in the hollows. Immediately S.
of Pátna is the hill-fort of Kald Nidhi
or Nandi Garh, 1,200 ft. above the
plain, and possessing a fine climate.
Thither the European Residents at Bel-
gáñw resort in the hot weather. N. of
this 15 m. is Hanmant Garh, which was
the seat of the S. Maratha campaign
(see p. 391).
(a) Belgáriw (Belgaum).—This town,
by the natives, is called Shahpur Bel-
gdiw, from the neighbouring Jágir of
Shāhpar which lies to the S. It is
situate about 2,500 ft. above the sea, in
a plain, with low hills in the distance.
From an adjoining eminence the tra-
veller may see the fort, town, and can-
tonments in a line from E. to W., the
fort being at the E. extremity, the town
in the centre, and the cantonments to
the W.
The Fort is strong against natives,
built of stone, with earthen ramparts.
It is of an oval shape, about 1,000 yds.
in length, by 700 in breadth, with a
broad and deep wet ditch, cut in very
hard ground, and surrounded by an
esplanade 600 yds. wide. The wall is
30 ft. high. To the N. is a large tank,
and to the S. rice fields. The entrance
is to the N., just opposite the tank.
Within the Fort is an arsenal, and the
banglás of the civilians and of the
staff. In every compound is a good
* Prof. Orlebar on the “Geology of the Rām
Ghát.” Jour. Bomb. As Soc. 1812, p. 199.
spring of water,
which percolates
through laterite. This fort was taken
by Brigadier-General, afterwards Sir
., Munro, on the 10th of April, 1818,
having been besieged from the 20th of
March. The English batteries were
erected on the N.W. of the fort, and
between the tank and the native town.
The enemy had 1,600 men and 36 guns,
besides 60 small brass guns and janjals."
They lost 20 killed and 50 wounded,
while the English loss was 11 killed
and 12 wounded.
The Town has nothing remarkable
about it. It is clean and neat, and
was greatly improved in 1848 by a
atriotic subscription of the principal
inhabitants, in acknowledgment of
which meritorious conduct Government
presented £600 for the same purpose of
improvement. There is a college here
for the instruction of the sons of na-
tive gentlemen, supported by the chief
families of the surrounding districts,
with subscriptions which amount to
£600 annually. Government £
ed the building, and supplied other
requisites; and in February, 1853,
the number of pupils amounted to 50.
On the N. of the town are extensive
cemeteries. In the same direction from
the W. is the Kacheri and Treasury, a
large two-storied building. The road
through the town has been much im-
£ lately, and the traveller can
rive through it to the cantonments,
which are about 1% m. from the fort.
If the route now being described be
followed, the traveller arrives at the
cantonments first. He then comes
first to some high ground, where is the
race-course and the European lines. He
will next come to the lines of the Na-
tive Infantry. To reach the fort he
need not pass through the town, but
may, if he prefer it, take a road out-
side to the N., which passes the Kacheri.
The Kacheri is not seen if the road by
the town be taken.
In the vicinity of Belgáñw are many
places well worthy of a visit. At Sub-
gati or Sutgati, 14 m. from Belgáñw,
* This is a Hindústání word, and originally
means “troublers.” The janjail is a swivel
gun or blunderbuss. 1
8


410
Sect. II.
RouTE 17.—GoA To sáTARA—FALLs of GoRKK.
from that place on
the road to Púnah, are two remarkable
banyan trees of very great size. The
first is near the traveller's banglá. Its
stem, or rather stems, have grown to-
gether into a wall of timber for a dis-
tance of 40 ft. This tree rises to a
great height, and the branches spread
out for 100 ft. around the trunk. The
other tree is about a mile from the
banglá, and, though not remarkable for
height, covers a larger surface of
ground. It consists of a grove of
small stems, instead of one grand cen-
tral trunk. A wire-rope bridge was,
in 1851, thrown across the Gatparbá
at this place, at the expense of Sardár
Gaurah Wankmunka, a native gentle-
man. At Hoskerri, the next stage on
the same road, are three fine Muham-
madan tombs, in one of which the tra-
veller usually puts up. These have
never yet been described. Hoskerri
was a place of note among Muhamma-
dans under the Bijapur monarchs, and
the town was supplied with water from
several aqueducts, which have now be-
come choked up. A notice of the an-
tiquities of this place is a desideratum.
But the most remarkable sight in
this locality is the Falls of Gokak, dis-
tant about 35 m. to the N.E. The
stages are as follows :- STAGES.
PLACES. M. F. M. F.
Belgáñw Fort, N. or Main
Gate to Kanbargi
Kalkamba ................ *
Muchundí ....
Astgí ..... • * * * *
Chand Kera......... - - - -
Chik Kangāmi ............
Chandúr .... • • * * * * * *
X Ballarin............
TUMBARGUNDI’..
Soldhál .....
Budihal .......
Kunjanhall. - - - -
Kundargá.....................
PADSHAHPUR .........
x Márkand r. to Gurk-
hetr ........................
Gotgiri............ - - - -
Kunuir or Kanûr
FALLS OF GOKAK ... 5
and the first #
?
• * * * * *
12 5
• * * * * * * * *
10 1
The road is indifferent, and supplies,
except at Pádshāhpūr, which is the
principal town of the district, are
hardly procurable. The Mārkand is
an insignificant stream, except during
the rains, when it is crossed in boats.
Kandr is a small hamlet on the Gat-
£ river, which, rising in lat. 15° 50',
ong. 74° 3', and flowing in a N.E. di-
rection for 160 m., falls into the
Krishná in lat. 16° 20', long. 75° 52'.
The Falls have been described by Dr.
Bird" and Captain Newbold. Accord-
ing to Dr. Bird, the Falls are but a
mile from Kanar, but the distance
given above is taken from the Route-
book published by Government. They
derive their name from the old fort of
Gokak, 2 m. off, now in ruins. The
cataract passes over a perpendicular
quartz rock 176 ft. high. In the dry
season the body of water which forms
the fall is not very considerable, and is
broken by a projecting rock, and so
descends in two separate columns into
a semi-circular basin of still water.
Though not grand at this period of the
year, the Falls of Gokák may yet bear
comparison, in picturesque beauty, with
other celebrated cataracts. The dazzling
whiteness of the descending columns,
the rainbows formed by the sunbeams
on the silvery spray, the murmurin
voice of the water, the large blac
rocks in the bed of the river, and the
solemn loneliness of the surrounding
jungle, combine in creating an im-
pression which will '' be remem-
bered. In the rains, however, the
river is 180 yds. broad, and the Falls
are then a grand and magnificent sight.
“Even the apathetic Hindú,” says Dr.
Bird, “could not here contemplate un-
moved the majesty of Nature, but has
recorded his admiration of her works
by erecting a temple on either side of
the cataract.” These temples are sa-
cred to Mahádeo, and are built where
the quartz sand-stone hills ascend from
the river. The roofs are formed of
long flat slabs of quartz rock, resting
on short thick pillars of the same. The
general figure of these temples is ob-
* Jour. of the Roy. As Soc., vol. ii. p. 70, and
of the Beng. As, Soc. for 1845, Vol. xiv. p. 268.


Bombay.
411
nourn l7.—GOA TO s.ir,in.i-—rsLLs or ooxiir.
long, and they have but one story, with
several smaller buildings at the side.
They, therefore, differ from modern
Hindu pa odas, which are usually pyra-
midal, wit several stories, d.iminish'
in size to the top. The rock in the be
of the river, and near the ed e of the
cataract, has been formed, by t e action
of the water, into deep circular holes
of from 2 to 3 ft. in diameter. The
path to the water-edge lies on the right-
hand side, between vertical columns of
quartz rock, and the passage is too
narrow for more than one person. The
opening into it is so low- that it is requi-
site to creep on hands and knees, and
the loose blocks of rock wedged between
the perpendicular columns hang threat-
eningly overhead. The cataract appears
to less advantage from below, but the
noise of the fall is grand. The scenery
all around is very beautiful.
The following is the account
by Captain Newbold, which is ller
than that of Dr. Bird, and replete with
scientific information :—
Falls of Goka'l:.—“The subordinate
ran es of Gokak and Kotabangi form the
E. ank of the W. Ghats, and run in a
parallel direction here about S. by E. At
Gokak, the upper portions of this range
present mural precipices with either flat
tabular summits or running in narrow
crested ridges. They are enclosed from
the E. b a (picturesque gorge, through
which e atparba hurries from its
mountain sources into the elevated plains
of the Dakhan, near the town of Gokak,
which is about 3Q n1. E. of the falls. The
road la along the bottom and side of
this de e, on the r. b. of the river,
which was now (July) swollen b the
monsoon freshes from the W. G fits.
It varied in breadth from 90 to 300
yds., presenting a rapid muddy stream,
rawling and rushing from the alternate
confinement and openin out of its rocky
channel. It is unfor able from the
middle of Ma to the middle of Sept.
The water at t c dry season ford, a little
below the town, is now 15 ft. deep.
The sources are said to be near Bandar
or‘ Gandar Garb, a little N. of the main
Ghét. After a course of about 100 m.,
watering the plains of Kaladgi and
'ven

Bagalkot, it finds its way through the
gaps in the Sitadongar hills to the
Krishna, which it joins at the Kudll
Sarigam. After an hour spent in wind-
ing up this rugged defile, the Falls, the
roar of which we distinctly heard dur-
ing the silence of the night at the town
of Gokak, at a sudden angle of the road
became partly visible, presenting the
magnificent spectacle of a mass of water
containing u wards of 16,000 cubic ft.
precipitated om the tabular surface of
the sandstone into a gorge forming the
head of the defile, the bottom of which
is about 178 ft. below the lip of the
cataract. The Gatparbfi, a little above
the fall, is apparently about 250 yds.
across, but contracts to 80 as the brink
of the chasm is approached ; conse-
quently the density and velocit of the
watery mass is much increase , and it
hurries down the shelving tables of rock
with frightful rapidi to its fall. The
fall over the face of t e precipice seems
slow and sullen from the velocity of the
surface water of the rapid, and from the
great denseness of the bod ; and it
plungies heavily down, wit a deep
thun ering sound, which we heard dur-
ing the previous night at our encamp-
ment, 3§ m. farther down the river.
This ponderous descent and the heavy
muddy color of the water conveys a feel-
ing of weight through the eye to the
scnses, which is relieved by the bright-
ness and airiness of thin clouds of white
vapor and amber colored spray which
ascend from the basin at the bottom of
the gorge in curling wreaths, curtaining
the lower portions of the fall, and
through which the basin was only seen
at intervals, when its surface was swept
by the fitful gusts that swept up the
glen. Rising above the cliffs that con-
fine the falls, the watery purticlcs vanish
as they ascend; but, again condensing,
descend in gentle showers, which are
felt at a short distance round the head of
the falls. Spray bows, varying in bright-
ness, distinctness, and extent, accor ing
to the quantity of light refracted, and
the modification of the vapor, lent their
prismatic tints to the ever ascending
wreaths; the largest (observed about 4
p.m.), formed an arch completely across


412
Sect. II.
RoUTE 17. –GoA To sáTKRA-FALLs of GokáK.
the river, rose, and, receding as the sun
sank in, gradually disappeared with it.
Like the rainbow, they are only pro-
duced on the surface of the cloud op-
# to the sun's rays. The size and
istance from each other of the drops
composing the different portions of the
spray cloud, evidently influenced the
brilliancy of the refracted colors, the
tints being brightest in those portions
where the drops were of medium size
and density, and dullest where the
watery particles were smallest and
closest together. The velocity of the
surface water of the rapid was about
9 ft. per second, and its depth 10 ft.
About 23 m. farther up the river, near
the village of Kunir, beyond the rapids,
is a ford in the dry season, and a safe
ferry during the monsoon. A tumbler-
full of the turbid water deposited 1-50th
of its bulk, of a fine £ clay, not
calcareous,—a fact showing that the
lime which exists in the sediment of this
river at its confluence with the Krishná
must have been derived from the inter-
mediate plains. The pebbles brought
down are chiefly quartz granitic, and
from the hypogene schists, with a few
of chalcedony; the sands containing
grains of magnetic iron. The boiling
point of water at the plateau of sand-
stone from which the cataract falls gives
2,817 ft. above the level of the sea.
The mean temperature of the place,
approximated by Boussingault's method,
is 78°, which I should think rather too
high, as the temperature of a spring close
by was only 75°. The temperature of the
air in the shade at the time was 78°. The
mean temperature of Dharwād, which
stands much lower, is calculated by
Christie at 75°. The head of the fissure,
which is elliptical in form, with mural
sides of sandstone, has much the appear-
ance of having been cut back, like
Niagara, by the absorbing action of the
water, for the space of about 100 yds.
Large rocks, with angular and worn sur-
faces, evidently dislodged from the rocks
on the spot, are seen in the bed and on the
sides of the river below the deep basin, the
receptacle of the fallen waters, and on its
margin. The great hardness and com-
pact structure of the sandstone above
the falls offers great obstacles to their
rapid recession. The cliffs, however,
flanking the right side of the river be-
low, are rent by nearly vertical fissures
from summit to base, by one of which
I descended to the bed. The direc-
tion of two of the largest was about
E.S.E. £ are crossed nearly at
right angles by minor cracks, which
thus insulate portions of the rock.
The bases of these tottering pinnacles
are often undermined by the action of
the water, and the mass tumbles head-
long into the stream. The sandstone,
in its lower portions, is interstratified
with layers of shale, the softness of
which facilitates this process of under-
mining. These shales are of a purplish-
brown and yellowish-brown color, with
minute spangles of mica disseminated,
and between the lamina contain incrus-
tations of common alum (sulphate of
alumina). The alum is earthy and im-
pure, and sometimes has a mammillated
surface, resembling the alum incrusta-
tions in the ferruginous shales cresting
the copper mountain near Ballari. It
is found in considerable quantities in a
small cave near the foot of the falls.
The ripple mark, so often seen on the
sandstones of Europe, is observed in
eat distinctness on the tabular sur-
aces of the cliffs, and in exposed layers
of the subjacent beds, at least 100 ft.
below the surface. Its longitudinal
direction is various, but generally S.
25° W., indicating the # and
W.N.W. direction of the current which
caused them. The ripple marks on
the sandstones of Kadapa and Karnal
have a general similar direction. At
the bottom of the deep fissures in the
sandstone cliffs already described, accu-
mulations have formed of fallen frag-
ments of rocks, sticks and leaves, etc.
from above, intermingled with the dung
and bones of bats, rats, and wild
pigeons, with a few sheep and goat
bones. Some of the latter have the
appearance of having been gnawed by
hyenas, jackals, or other beasts of prey,
many, however, are evidently the remains
of animals that have fallen from above,
as the bones are fractured. The upper
portions of these fissures have sometimes


Bombay
413
* / / *
RouTE 17.–GoA To SATARA—KITöR.
been choked by rock and rubbish from
above. Their sides, though generally
smooth, are marked with shallow po-
lished grooves. I made two excavations
through the floor of the principal fis-
sure, in the hope of meeting with
organic remains, but in vain. After
penetrating the surface layer of loose
stones and bats' dung, a fine red earth
was met with, embedding angular frag-
ments of sandstone, and a few rounded
pebbles of it and quartz. After digging
for about 4 or 5 ft. through this, farther
progress was prevented by great blocks
of solid rock. The seeds of creepers and
other plantsvegetate on thissoil,and shoot
rapidly towards the surface, shading the
fissures with their leaves. On the cliffs
near the falls, on the right bank of the
river, stands a small group of Hindă
temples dedicated to Shiva. The prin-
cipal shrine is a massive and elaborately
carved structure of sandstone, elevated
on a high, well-built pediment above
the reach of the ordinary floods.
Seven years ago three of the steps of the
N. flight ascending this terrace were
submerged by an extraordinary rise of
the river. The Wimána of this temple
contains the Phallitic emblem of Shiva,
the Linga, guarded by the sacred bull.
Here we passed the heat of the day.
On the opposite bank of the river rises
a well wooded hill, about 100 ft. above
the brink of the rapid, on which stand
a few ruins of other Hindú religious
structures. The table-land to the S. of
the falls is covered with low'' of
Mimosa Euphorbia, Cassia and Bunder,
the Mend Bundati with its lilac sweet
pea-like blossom, the Carissa Spinarum,
Webera Tetrandra and other thorny
shrubs. The Euphorbia Antiqua and
tortilis were in flower (July).”
b) Kitár.—The road from Belgáñw
to Dharwād is a very good one, and the
rincipalnálás are bridged. The country
is undulating, and in general fertile and
well cultivated, with abundance of water.
Good quail and florican" shooting is to
be had. The Malparbá river, which is
crossed before reaching Kitár, may be
forded from December to June. Dur-
*:The Otis Campestris, a small kind of
bustard.
ing the rest of the year it is crossed in a
basket boat. This river rises on the E.
slope of the W. Ghats, in lat. 15° 45',
long. 74° 19 and flowing through the
Collectorate of Belgáñw for 160 miles,
falls into the Krishná in lat. 16°12',
long, 76° 9'. The town and fort of
Kitár are to the left of the road. This
place was the fief of a Desái, or chief,
who received investiture from the Rajá
of Kolhapar. When Colonel Wellesley
was marching on Panah in 1803 this
chief was of great service" to him; and
on many former occasions he strongly
supported the English; yet Colonel
Wellesley was obliged to remonstrate
to save him from being dispossessed. In
September, 1824, he died without chil-
dren, and the British Government, then
paramount, claimed the reversion of his
fief. The family sent in claims to be
allowed to adopt, which Mr. Thackeray,
the collector, refused to recognise with-
out the sanction of the Bombay Govern-
ment. He assumed charge of the dis-
trict, and was directed to retain it pend-
ing inquiry. On the morning of the
23rd of October he was encamped with-
out the walls of the fort with a com-
'' of Native H. Artillery and one of
N.I., when the gates of the fort were
shut; and on his attempting to force
admittance the garrison sallied out and
overwhelmed his party. Mr. Thackeray,
Capt. Black, and Lieut. Dighton, com-
manding the escort, were killed, Capt.
Sewell wounded, and Messrs. Stevenson
and Elliott, assistants to the collector,
carried prisoners into the fort, where
they were threatened with death in case
of an assault. On this, a force, consist-
ing of H. M. 46th Regiment, 1 Bombay
European Regiment, the 3rd, 6th, 14th,
and 23rd Regiments N.I., a brigade of
Madras and Bombay Artillery, and the
4th and 8th L. C., were sent to reduce
the place under Lieut.-Colonel Deacon.
On the evening of the 4th of December,
a practicable breach having been made,
the garrison surrendered on condition
that their lives should be spared. In
1832 another formidable insurrection
occurred, which was suppressed by the
zeal and courage of two pátils, Linga
* Wellington Despatches, vol. iii., p. 252.


414
Sect. II.
ROUTE l7.—oos ro s.i'rs'n.i—1>i1inws'n.
Gowah and Krishn Rae, who were re-
warded with grants of land. The rocks
in the vicinity are com osed of alter-
nate layers of quartz an iron ore.
$2] ha'rwa':_i (Dharwar or Darwar).
— is is a lar e open town, in a plain,
once defended by a low mud wall and a
ditch of no strength.‘ On the N. is the
fort, which is strong, though the de-
fences are of mud and irregular. It
has a double wall, and an outer and
inner ditch from 25 to 30 ft. wide, and
nearly as many feet deep. It was taken
from the Marathas by Haidar’Ali in
17 78, and stood a siege in 1789 from a
British force, co-operating with the
Maratha army under Parshuram Bhao.
It then belonged to Tfpfi, and one of
his ablest enerals, Badru’z-zaman, with
7000 reguiars and 3000 irre ars, hav-
ing thrown himself into it, defended it
with eat spirit. The first operation
took p ace on the 30th of October, when
an attack was made on a arty of the
garrison that had advance outside the
town. They were driven in, with the
loss of three gums and many killed and
wounded. The native town was then
taken by storm, in which Capt. Little
and Lieut. Forster, who first mounted
the wall, were wounded, the latter mor-
tally. Besides these the British lost 62
killed and wounded. They made over
the place to the Marathas, and returned
to camp, and had no sooner done so
than the garrison sallied, and-—after a
severe conflict, in which 500 Marathas
were killed and at least as many of their
own party——re-occu ied the town. After
a truce, to burn an bury the dead, the
fight was renewed, and the Marathas re-
took the place. The En lish had no
battering ns, and the ort was too
strong to e taken by assault, but a
regiment of Europeans and pa native
corps were sent under Lieut -Colonel
Frederick of the Bombay arm to rein-
force the besiegers. Colonel rederick
reached Dharwad on the 28th of Dec.,
and immediately took command and
commenced operations. As fast as the
Mai-atha gims, which were now manned
by the English, made a breach, the
enemy repaired it; and when the Bri-
tish troops advanced to the assault, on
the 7th of February, they were repulsed
with the loss of 85 men. Col. Frederick
died of chagrin at the failure, and was
succeeded by Major Sartorius; and at
length, after a protracted siege of 29
weeks, the brave Badru’z-zaméui sur-
rendered on condition of being allowed
to march out with all the honors of war.
The allies took possession of the fort on
the 4th of April, and the Marathas then
attacked Badru'z-zaman as he was
marching away, wounded him, and made
him prisoner, with man others, and
dispersed the rest of his orces, on pre-
text of his having destroyed some of the
stores after he had surrendered. In
September, 1801,‘ Colonel Weflesley,
afterwards Duke of Wellington, ex-
pressed his opinion that Dharwad could
e taken by a coup de main, and he drew
up a plan of attack on the S.W. side. In
1803, Colonel Wellesley gave a very re-
markable roof of his confidence in
Bapfiji Sinshia, who then held the fort,
with very dubious intentions as r rded
the British. He invited Col. We lesley
to an entertainment in the fort, and his
invitation was accepted, to the surprise
even of Bapffi himself, who, in remark-
ing afterwar s that he had not taken
advantage of it, said, “ For I am still a
Maratha." 1- In 1814, the same Kiladar,
havin come to pay his respects to Bajf
Rae eshwa, was told to give up the
fort to Trimbakji Danglia. His answer
was worthy a chivalrous baron of the
feudal times, “If your Highness will
send a gentleman to relieve me in the
command, or if you will send my secre-
tary, in your own name, I will deliver
the keys to him, but I will never give
over the fort to such a person as Trim-
bakji Dfmglia.” For this speech he was
seized as soon as he left the Peshwffs
tent, bound and tortured by Trimba 'i
until a promise of surrenderwas extorte .
He then gave his keys to his secretary,
a brahman on whom he could rely and
the latter, accompanied by a body of
troops, roceeded to Dhtirwlid. No
sooner, owever, had he reached the
gate than he asked leave to go a little
' Grant Du]. vol. lli., p. 48.
* De tches v_ol. 1., p. 860.
1' id, vo . ill., p. 405.


Bombay.
415
noorn 17.-—e0a T0 sir.is.i—LAxnuNi>i.
in advance, and, as soon as he had entered,
he caused all the gates to be closed, and
opened such a fire upon Trimbakji and
his men as compelled them to retire
with precipitation. In 1837 Dharwad
was the scene of such violent feuds be-
tween the Brahmans and Lingayats that
Government were obliged to interfere.
There are three Government Schools at
Dharwad, one for Marathi, one for
Kanarese, and one for En lish. From
this place many agreeabe excursions
to places of interest may be made. Of
these the three most pleasant and in-
teresting are to Lair/tundi, Ddndtltt, and
Rd1_wbe1in1'n' (Bednore).
Lakh1mdi.—This place is about 30 m.
E. of Dhiirwad, on the road to Ballari
and between Gad (Gudduk), and
l_)ambal gDummul). It must have been
a place o great sanctity in very ancient
times, when the Jains ruled the pro-
vince. It contains nearly 50 temples, of
different sizes, erected by that sect.
Many of the larger ones are of great
interest, and wonderfully elaborated,
the stone being carved in a way more
resembling the ivory work of the
Chinese, than what is ordinarily seen.
These temples, and many others of the
same period in different arts of the
country, are said to be t e work of
J akhan A'charya, a famous Jain Guru,
who flourished before the brahmans
obtained complete ascendancy in this
art of India, or, according to the Jain
egends, about 3000 years ago. The
temples have now been all desecrated or
appropriated by the orthodox Hindus
for their own deities, with the excep-
tion of one, which is still used as a Jain
place of worship. This last is one of
the finest, and is especiall interesting
to architects, from never _avii_1g been
quite completed, and exhibiting the
exterior carv' in a half finished state,
thus proving t at the elaborate orna-
menture was done after the buildings
had been finished. A naked figure of
Buddha, seated cross-legged with his
hands in his lap, is sculptured in many
places in this temple. In another temple
is a similar figure, but standing, and
canoplied by a hooded snake, _the body of
whic , in many windings, is seen be-

I
hind. The lower part of this figure is
now imbcdded in rubbish. Another
figure, seated on its heels, and holding
one sceptre in the right hand, and an-
other, of a different kind, in the left, is
very conspicuous in one of the temples.
There are several stones with inscrip-
tions, called, in Marathi, Shdacn Dagad,
in Kanarese, Nipac Katlu, at this village.
There is also a very long inscription, in
tolerable preservation, on the roof of
one of the temples in the inner fort.
The names of the founders and other
particulars connected with the temples
are said to be recorded in these inscrip-
tions. The village is styled in them
Lakhi Gundi, or “Stone of wealth.”
This title is said to be derived from a
shower of old coins which fell in ancient
times on t e spot. Besides the tem les
there are two magnificent wells, wit a
supply of excellent water, outside the
village. They are very ancient, and are
also the work of the J ains.
\Vhile the traveller is at Lakhundi he
will do well to visit Gadag, which is
about 5 m. oif. The town is large, and
there is a fort; but the principal objects
of interest are two large and very ancient
temples, one in the town, the other in
the fort. That in the town is dedicated
to Vfranartiyaua, an incamation of
Vishnu, and is about 700 yds. in cir-
cumference, with a gateway 100 ft.
high.‘ It is built of solid stone, most
beautifully carved. All the Vaishnava
travellers halt at it. The temple in the
fort is the more ancient, and is said by
the natives to be 2000 years old. This
date is also given in the inscri tions,
and in the Puraiias. One of the in-
scriptions is dated Shalivdhana ska/c
900 = A.D. 987, and states that the
temple having, in the course of ages,
fallen into a ruinous state, it was re-
paired by a certain king. The Jains
ad the supremacy here about s.n.
1000, and some of the battles fought
by them are recorded in this temple
in _the inscriptions. The pillars are a
miracle of carving. There is a figure
of Trikzlteshwara, the chief Lingo
branching into three heads.
30; Ortentat Christian Spectator, July, 1889. p.


416 RouTE 17.—GoA To
sÁTARK-RANEBENNUR.
Sect. II.
Close to , Gadag is the village of
JBetwari, where valuable cloths are
manufactured, and where abundance of
excellent grapes may be got, the vine-
yards about 20 miles off being very cele-
brated. There is also here a remarkable
range of hills called Kapot, which are
about 2000 ft. high, commencing three
miles off, and extending about 30. The
native doctors come to these hills from
distances of 200 or 300 miles to collect
roots, leaves, and simples. These hills
are very rich in mineral products, and
among them are iron ore containing
plumbago, and sand with particles of
£ A scientific description of these
ills is a desideratum. There are some
remarkable caverns here, which are
fabled by the natives to be inhabited by
certain demigods of the Lingayats called
Siddhs. There are also three curious
temples and a statue about 12 ft. high,
concerning which there are strange and
hateful stories. A few miles to the N.
of Gadag is the town of Hambál, where
is a large temple with a tank about 150
yds. long, 80 broad, and 50 deep, the
Water # which is salt. The whole
country abounds with temples, inscrip-
tions, and objects of interest, which have
never been properly described.
Dandilli.–Three stages on the road
to Goa, and 34 m. W. of Dhārwād, are
the jungles of Dândilli teeming with
every sort of game that can amuse and
excite the sportsman. Here tigers and
wild buffalos are to be found in ''
and elephants come up from the S. after
the rains. The traveller may proceed
to Goa this way, and so by sea to Bom-
bay. The stages to Goa are as follows:
STAGES. M. F.
Dharwad Fort Gate to Kalkerra 10 1}
Hallihál b, ........................ 11 5}
Dándilli (no supplies).. ... 12 1
Jagalpenth .............. 12 5
Chāndawādi ..................... 18 1
× Kandapür r. (no supplies)... 15 1
Punda .............................. 10 5
St. Jago on the island of Goa 11 5.
Panjim or New Goa, b. p. o. ... 84
110 5}
Raineberinir (Bednore).—This is the
S. limit of the Bombay Presidency, and
borders on Madras. The stages are as
follows:–
STAGES.
Dharwad Fort to Hubli (end of
the town)........ • * * * * * * * • • * * * * * * 12 64
Betadar .... ... 8 6
Ingalji "............................ 8 4
Sávanir (further end of town) b. 1343
Dewgiri b, ................... ..... 8 6
Moti Behnür b. ... ... 13 24
Rånebennar b. .................. 12 6
78 3}
This is a most interesting route, but
it has never been well described, and a
notice of the many remarkable sights it
presents is a great desideratum. Hubli
is one of the principal cotton marts of
the S. Marātha country, and is also in-
teresting as being the seat of one of the
earliest English factories, which, in 1763,
was plundered by Sivaji of£ to the
value of 27,629 rupees. The popula-
tion of Hubli is now about 15,000.*
In the old fort is a very curious well,
about 80 ft. deep, of a strong mineral
taste. The water from all the other
wells is delicious. The old town of
Hubli was built some centuries ago,
the new town by Chintaman Ráo Pat-
wardan, of Sángli, about 60 years ago.
At the village of Adargunchi is a gigan-
tic statue #one of the Buddhist or Jain
deities. At Ingalji are 10 temples, at
Savanür 6, at Dewgiri 6, at Moti Beinür
5, at Chatr, between that place and Räne-
beinür, 3, none of which have been de-
scribed. From Sāvandr three places of
considerable interest are within an easy
day's journey, viz., Sigdiw, Bankapir,
and Hangal. Sigdriw is famous for its .
betel gardens. The betel leaves are sold
at 1 aná for 500, while at Bombay the
cost the same for 80. There is a sma
but nice banglä here for travellers close
to a large betel garden. Bankapir was
a very flourishing place under the Mu-
hammadan kings of the Dakhan. It is
now desolate, but there are beautiful
temples and mosques, which have never
been described. Hangalis a large town,
* According to Thornton: but Tirmal Rao,
Principal Sadr Amin of Dharwad, in the Ör.
Chris. Spectator, for July, 1839, p. 300, states
that, there were then 4,506 houses, and 21,500
inhabitants,


Bombay.
417
.BOU’.l‘E 17.--—GOA T0 s.ir1'lni—cnrx NABGUND.
and one of the most ancient places in the
Dharwad districts. It is mentioned in
the Puranas under the name of Virdtna»
yam, “the cit of King Virata." Its
principal temp e is large and very an-
cient, and is dedicated to Jarkeshwara.
The carving is remarkable. Opposite
the idol is a place called by the natives
the ramal, or lotus of Hangal. It is an
octagonal building, and the ceiling is
formed b one immense stone, about
20 ft. in iameter, cut into the shape of l
a lotus flower, and resting on 8 illars.
On eight stones adjoining the pi ars are
sculptured the aghtadikpdlakas, or guar-
dians of the eight cardinal points.
Thousands of other fi ures, some seated,
some standing, are sc ptured in various
parts of the temple. According to Pau-
ranik legend, the Rakshas, or demon,
Kéchaka, was destroyed at this place.
Hangal is surrounded by extensive ar-
dens of betel and cocoa-nut trees. he
sugar cane is also very lar ely cultivated.
The method of betel c ture is as fol-
lows :—When the betel nuts are quite
ripe the are gathered and planted, with
the hus s on, at intervals of 4 ft. from »
each other, and in square patches. In
6 months the stem begins to appear, and
in about 12 years it reaches the height of l
20 ft., when it throws out branches with i
nuts. In its full growth it is 60 ft. ,~
high, but never thicker than 5 or 6 1
inches in diameter. In February and
March a thick green cover, called by 1
the natives adkihali, forms at the top of l
the tree. This dries and falls ofi', and -
is then 4 ft. long and 2;; broad, brown i
outside andwhite in. It is very strong, 1
after having been soaked in _
water, an is used by the natives for
bags. In this cover is a shell, at first
2 or 3 inches, and, when full grown,
2 ft. long. As the nuts in the shell get
particularly

ripe it gives way and falls down. Out
of it bursts a large bunch of nuts divided
into 3 branches. Each bunch contains
from 3 to 4 ears of nuts. The tree
bears fruit once a year, and hoots out
two or three branches at a time. Each
of the nuts is covered with a shell like
that of a cocoa-nut, which is easily re-
moved by the gardeners. When fully
ripe the nut is fit for seed, but not to
eat. When three-fourths ripe it is only
eaten by the poor, and is then called, in
Kanarese, be_t_te¢_iike. When half ripe it
is the chi/cm’ udki, and is then at its
best flavor, and sells from 6 to 8 rupees
per man. It is cut into wafers or small
pieces, and is then boiled and dried, after
which it is called the kafrui adki. The
trees live about 60 years.
The sugar cane is of four kinds-
white, black or red, the rastdli, and the
huohch or mad. There are two species
of the white cane, the hula and the bet.
The hula is about half an inch in dia-
meter, and contains little juice, but the
best gul or molasses is made from it.
Bet is the hardest of all the canes, and
grows 10 ft. high; its juice is superior
to that of the preceding kind. The
black or red sugar cane is three times as
thick as the white, and gives more juice,
but of a different flavor. It grows to
12 ft. The ractdli is divided into white
or gubi, and striped. The white ruatdli
is much thicker than the red, and con-
tains more juice than an cane. Its
juice is a de icious drink, ut when in-
spissated makes the worst gul. It is so
soft as to be easily eaten. The striped
sort is exactly the same as the other
species except in color. It grows to
15 ft. The huchab is good only for
cattle, and elephants are very fond of it.
The other sorts, when full grown, are
cut up, and have the juice expressed by
two rollers, and this 1s then inspissated
by boiling it in large iron basons, when
it is called gul. Reduced to power, this
is the native sugar, and is sold in this
district at 8 anés er mam.
The road from hfn-wad to Kaladgi is
not good, and in the rains impractic-
able. After -March, until the rains,
there is a general scarcity of water. It
may be noted here that in the Dharwaql
districts there are in many places very
dangerous holes, into which the rains
have washed a quantity of black slime,
which, on the surface, appears dry, but
would instantl engulph a man. The
sportsman nee s to be careful of these
pits. All the villages on this route are
poor, and none are of considerable size.
(d) Cllik Nargmzd or Little Nargund.
—Here the traveller may halt for a day


Bombay.
419
soon: 17.--cos ro s£rinX—xALsr_>ei.
and, being shut in by perpendicular walls
of rock from 100 to 250 ft. in height,
with only a narrow strip of blue sky
visible overhead, the passage along it is
ve wild and peculiar.
he Bdddmi Caves are all flat-roofed,
and smaller than those at Kai-li and
J unnar; but the sculptures in them are
in good preservation, and some of the
groups in alto-relievo on the side walls
of the front part of the caves are well
executed. The principal figures have
all caps of a truncated conical form, not
unlike the Albert shako, but loftier.
The shape and capitals of the pillars
are different from those in other eaves.
Groups of figures extend from the illars
of the rincipal cave to the roo at an
angle o 45°. The faces of these figures
are turned downwards, so as to meet the
eye of a spectator looking at them from
below.
Not far from Badamf are the ruins of
the old shrine of Ban Shankri, 2 m. from
Tolasgad. There is, at this place, a very
fine tank of masonry, surrounded by a
double colonnade of pillars, forming a.
covered way all round. The water,
however, is bad. There are several
ruined temples, and a large modern
one, built about 80 years ago, by a
banker of Satara. It is of green-stone,
but the older buildings are of the sand-
stone of the nei hborhood. Close by
the ruins is a ne dam of masonry,
about 60 ft. in thickness, by which the
water of a small stream is diverted to
the irrigation of some gardens near
Tolasgad, which are retty extensive.
Badami was taken on are 20th of May,
1786, by the confederate armies of the
Peshwu and the Nigam, from Tipu,
with heavy loss on both sides. In 1818
it was captured by Colonel, afterwards
Sir Thomas Munro.
(f) Kaladgi (Kaludghee).-—This is
usually the station of a small body of
native troops. The town is beyond the
oantonments, on the Gatparbu river.
The traveller who has not visited Bi'a-
pur may proceed to it from Kala gi.
The distance is 54 m. 6 f. as follows :—-
sreoss. M. r.
Banlhatti.............................. 8 6
Ba-rgandi.............................. 9 0

srsons. 14.1‘.
Kolar ..... 9 4
Mulwar ...... 11 7
Fath or S. Gate of Bijapur 15 5
0‘ i
DB
G3
For the description of Bijapur see
Route 9, . 375. Four stages to the
W. from ijapur, on the road to Kol-
hupur, is AU11_:.i (Hutnee), a_ very cu-


rious place well deserving a visit. The
stages are—
srsons. M. P.
From Bijapur N.W. Gate to
Tikotfi . 12 2%
Honwsr. .. 7 2
Aga1li.... . 11 35
13 5}
44 5;
By the Route from Kaladgi to Kol-
hapur it may be reached from R£1ibagl_i,
whence it is a journey of 3 stages.
Atlmi is a thriving town of 1,000
houses and 7000 inhabitants, with 3
streets of shops called the Raviwar,
Buddhwar, and Jain buzars. The
streets are wide and level, with ma-
sonry drains at the sides, and these are
covered over at the street-crossings.
There is a curious hybrid temple here,
built by Ibrahim Shah, Jagat Guru, of
Bijapur. This pjlace of worship is fre-
uented both y Muslims and by
indus. The Hindus worship in the
inner temple in the centre of the court,
while the Muslims perform their rites
in the court itself. A little shrine in
front of the gateway contains the lin-
gem, and is surmounted by the crescent.
brahim Shah was warned, so the people
of this town aflirm, to destroy no more
Hindu temples, and this edifice was one
of the first fruits of his tolerant spirit.
His olic was evidently to conciliate
the in us, from among whom the
Maratha chiefs were then rising into
power; and his name is still held in
affectionate remembrance by the Hindus
around Bijapur. The Hindu temple i.n
the centre of the court has a dome like
a Muhammadan tomb. This Catholic
edifice is frequented by people of all
castes and persuasions, fly the Brah-
man and by the outcast ahar, by the


420
Sect. II.
RouTE 17.–GoA To sáTARá-JoTíBA's HILL.
Muslim, and also by the Lingayat.
They all worship in their respective
fashions, without interfering with each
other. The temple is, in fact, an em-
bodiment of the principle of toleration.
W. of Athni 15 m. is the large village
of Mangsolí, where are some fine gar-
dens. This is the boundary place be-
tween the Marathi and Kanarese lan-
guages. About a mile W. of the village
is a large temple, sacred to Khandoba,"
*An account of this very popular deity
of the Maráthas will be found at p. 371 of the
Oriental Christian Spectator for August, 1840.
The exploits of Khande Ráo, or Khandobá.
are celebrated in the Mallári Mahātmya,
said to belong to the Kshatra Khanda of the
Bramhanda Purána. The scene of the Mal-
lári M. is laid at a low range of hills near
Jijūri (see p.346), called in Maráths the Khalke
Pathar. The legend avers that certain bráh-
manswere here interrupted in their devotions
by a Daitya, or Titan, called Malla, who, with
his brother Mami and a great army, trod down
their gardens, killed their cows, and beat them
and their families. There seems to be some
historical basis for this, as Malla is the place
whence came a family of Bhils, mentioned by
Sir J. Malcolm in the 1st vol. of the As. Trans.,
whose king murdered a bráhman and carried
off his daughter. The oppressed bráhmans
visited heaven in search of a protector, and
after all the other gods had refused, Shiva as-
sented, and, becoming incarnate in Khande
Ráo, killed the Daitya. The 6th day of
the first fortnight of Margashirsh, the 9th
Hindu month, is sacred to the god in this in-
carnation, otherwise called Mallári, “the foe
of Malla.” This, therefore, is the great day at
Jíjuirí, where the present temple was built by
the first Malhár Ráo, who died in 1767. The
ascent is by a broad flight of steps. After as-
cending a little way there is a landing-place,
where is Khandoba's shepherd with a herd of
buffalos, etc., of stone, presented by devotees
whose cattle have recovered, after vows to the
god. At a second landing-place is his Prime
Minister, who is said to have been of the Wāni
caste. The third landing-place is the platform
of the god. Outside, by Khandoba's horse,
stands the giant Malla, who is first kissed by
the worshippers. Inside are the images of
Khande Ráo and his principal wife, Mhálsa,
placed behind a lingam. The founder of this
temple, Malhár Ráo, built another at this part
of the hill, in which he placed his own image
and that of his wife, Ahilya Bái, behind the
lingam, so that in bowing to the lingam
the worshippers bow to his image. Ahilya
Bai, so famous for her virtues, has also a
temple at Náshik, where she is worshipped as
approached through a pleasant glen full
of sacred trees, affording good shade
for encamping. These trees have all
been planted at different times, by pil-
ims to the shrine at the annual Jatra
eld in the hot season. Any pilgrim
who has planted a tree enjoys the right
of encamping under it, and may dis-
place an interloper.
Kolhapur is, in many respects, a very
interesting place, and deserves to be
thoroughly explored and described.
The great temple to Ambabái or Mahá
Lakshmi is very ancient. Its cloisters
now lie buried many feet under the
surface of the earth, owing to some
terrible convulsion. Stone slabs,
covered with , strange figures and
ancient inscriptions, are dug out from
a depth of 15 ft. The old bed of the
river Pánchgangă can be traced at an
elevation of 70 ft. above its present
level, and was discovered in digging for
a foundation, when a stratum of po-
lished pebbles, evidently rounded by
running water, was found. This temple
is shewn, by the figures of Buddh and
its style of architecture, to have been
originally a Jain church. The length
of the foundation from E. to W. is
144 ft., and from N. to S. 157. The
height of the dome is 36 ft.
Jotiba's Hill is distant 5 miles from
Kolhápür, and is a truncated cone about
1000 ft. high, separated by a deep ravine
from the Panhálá range. This hill has
been a place of great sanctity for ages,
and its top is a labyrinth of temples,
and pilgrims come from distances of .
700 miles to visit its shrines. Jotiba
is the protector of the family of Sin-
dhia, and his image of soft black stone
is said to have been in a state of
continual perspiration during the last
an incarnation of Bhaváni. Holkar endowed
the temple with 10,000 rupees annually, and
the Peshwá granted a like sum, which has
been continued by the English Government.
Besides the image dressers, there are 50 Vira,
one of whom is required, at the annual festi-
val, to run a sword through his thigh, and
afterwards walk through the town as though
nothing had happened. This he does under
the influence of stimulants, but usually keeps
his bed six weeks, and sometimes dies of his
Wounds." - -


Bombay.
421
RouTE 17.—GoA To sáTARA—JoTíBA’s HILL.
British campaign against Gwalior.
Ratnāgiri, Kedar Náth, and Nāth are
also names of this place. It is said that
Jotibá, an incarnation of Shiva, here
killed two demons, Ratnāsur and Kol-
hásur. The temples are chiefly built
of blue basalt, and many are highly
ornamented and covered with brass or
silver plates. There are many sub-
terranean temples in the town of Kolhá-
pór, said to have been buried by an earth-
quake in the 14th century. There are
also at Jotibá's Hill and other places
cave-temples. The following is a notice
of the most remarkable of these by Dr.
F. Broughton, Civil Surgeon at Kolhä-
pór, furnished to Dr. Wilson, and which
will be found in the Journal of the Bom-
bay Asiatic Society for 1853, vol. iv.,
p. 362:—
“Since the receipt of your instructive
Memoir on the Temples of Western
India, I have visited two series of Bud-
dhist caves which have not, I believe,
been before described, and may not, I
trust, be deemed by you devoid of in-
terest. The first I will mention is
situated on a hill, called Mhálasā Pa-
thar, a continuation of the Panhälä
range, and distant from thence about
6 m. The nearest village is called Bada-
wárá; but the best mark for finding it
is a white temple conspicuous on the
western border of the hill, and near
which some curious marks in the rock,
like the foot-prints of men and animals,
are described by the natives as being
the impressions made in a conflict there
fought between the giants and demons.
These caves of Páñdu Hari are also
celebrated as being the favorite retreat
of the renowned robber chief (rishi 3)
Jaimini, and their situation is well
suited to such a purpose, as, concealed
in a small ravine and hidden by trees,
none but the initiated are likely to be
aware of their proximity. The excava-
tions are formed in a semicircular scarp
of amygdaloid in a wooded ravine, the
chord of the arc being 40 yds., and the
aspect is due E. Near the centre, and
approached by a flight of rudely cut
steps, is a temple 30 ft. wide and 40 ft.
long by 7 ft. in height, opening into an
inner chamber 10 ft. square, in the
centre of which is a ruined block of
uncut stone, the remains, I believe, of a
dahgop. The roof is, or rather was,
supported by 6 separate pillars, and 6
cut in half relief at the corners and
sides; but the soft nature of the rock
has been broken up by the growth of
the roots of the trees and the action of
the water, and the roof has given way,
carrying with it many of the pillars,
and nearly the whole of the verandah,
which once evidently protected its front.
To the right of this cave is another,
40 ft. long and 17 ft. wide, being 7 ft.
8 in. high, and supported by 6 pillars of
uncut rock. In this is also an inner
chamber containing a mutilated pillar,
on which a portion of squaring and a
cut line or edging are visible. In the
area formed by the pillars in the outer
apartment of this cave is a raised seat,
indicating a spot from which some
figure has been removed. Much wan-
ton mischief appears to have been com-
mitted in these caves, and the linga
now occupies situations created by the
destruction of the original design. To
the right and left of these caves, cells
about 6 ft. square are found: two on
the right are approached by steps, and
are above the level of the larger caves;
those on the left are also two in number,
and contain stone seats, and are ap-
proached by doorways; and between
the cells and the centre cave is some
carving on the rock, indicating it as the
posterior wall of a chamber which has
fallen in. Two half relieved pillars are
surmounted by a curious Buddhistic
figure. To the extreme left is a natural
cavern extending far into the hill, and
from which a stream of remarkably pure
water flows, thus completing the re-
quisites of the recluse.” “The caves of
|Panhald Dari are situated close to the
village of Panhälä, in a hill about 7
miles from Kolhapur, and close to Jo-
tibd’s dongar. They are excavated near
the upper part of the hill, and the en-
trance is hidden by trees. They consist
of a chaitya in the shape of a horse-
shoe, 27 ft. long, 16 ft. wide, and 11 ft.
high, containing a dahgop 8 ft. high,
and 21 ft. in circumference, in the cen-
tre of which some slight remains of


422
Sect. II. Bombay.
RouTE 17.—GoA To sáTARA—JoTíBA's HILL.
carving are visible, as forming a circle
round the pillar.
“This temple and pillar, distinctly
monolithic, and attesting the design of
the excavator, corresponds exactly with
the £ you give of the chaitya,
and will, I hope, authorise me in speak-
ing so positively in my description. On
the right of this cave is a spacious vihāra
44ft. by 41, but only 9 ft. in height,
supported by six pil on each side,
£ by a '' 7 ft. high
and 5 wide, and lighted by two win-
dows 4 ft. square on either side of the
doorway. From the three sides of this
hall there are entrances by narrow door-
ways into seven cells, so that there are
altogether 21 separate apartments about
7 ft. by 6% and 6 ft. high. Some of these
cells contained seats, 't are sadly dila-
pidated, as in defiance of a verandah
running along the front, the caves fac-
ing the S. are filled with water during the
monsoon. On either side of these caves
are nests of cells, on the right hand
leading the one into the other, on the
left separate. There are four on the
right 6 ft. by 4, and on the left three,
and £i there are two vinhás
affording an abundance of water. These
caves are fast going to decay from the
before-mentioned causes, and also from
the rain finding its way through the
roof, there being only 15 ft. of rock
from the roof of the temple to the top
of the scarp. There are some curious
excavations also that have lately been
cleared out by Capt. Graham in the fort
of Panhälä. I do not myself consider
them as having been used for religious
purposes, but will describe them for
your opinion. Descending by 7 steps,
and following a subterraneous passage
5 yds. long, 6ft. high, and 2% ft. broad,
the passage turns suddenly to the left,
and after another couple of yds. describes
a semi-circle again to the left, and opens
into a chamber about 8 ft. square, in
which is an uncut seat. A doorway
leads into another similar apartment on
the left, in which is also a seat, and a
niche in the wall for a lamp is found in
both, which, from the blackened appear-
ance of the rock, would seem to have
been used. On the right is a similar
sized room, in one corner of which is a
deep pit, at the mouth of which a groove
is carefully cut in the rock, into which
stone of a different material is fitted, so
as to close the entrance. Above the
centre of the middle chamber is a square
well-cut aperture, in fact a trap-door,
on the two sides of which places have
been cut to let in a bar, by which the
aperture could be closed. The impres-
sion on my mind is that the staircase
was cut to facilitate the formation of
the retreat, and afterwards filled up,
and the trap-door only used as the
entrance. This subterranean abode
could never have been a pleasant
habitation, particularly when the door
was closed above. That this door
was closed is probable, by the black-
ened walls where lamps have been used,
and which would not be necessary if
the traps were left open. From the
evident design of concealment, both of
the external aperture and the pit's mouth
below, I am disposed to think it was
contrived for the security of property,
and sometimes, probably, as a refuge
for persons in times of danger. This
excavation is situated on the side of the
Koti, and is now surrounded by villages.
Its situation does not indicate any wish
for retirement, as it is in the midst of
buildings of all descriptions; but the
object appears to have been conceal-
ment, and was most probably intended
for treasure.”


No1'tleern Div. 423
NORTHERN DIVISION.
.Preliminary Information.
1. Bourznsnrns sun Gmxsnsr. Asrncr or was DIVIBION—SUB-DIVISIONS AND
Cams‘ TowNs.——2. Hrsromcan sKE'1‘CH—-OAS'l‘ES——EMPLOYMENTS or ‘rm:
Narrvss.
1. BOUNDARIES AND GENERAL ASPECT OF THE DIVISION~—SUB-DIVISIONS AND
CHIEF TOWNS.
This division, lying between N. lat. 24° 45' and 20° 3', and E. long. 69° and
74° 20', has an area of 41,536 sq. m. From its most N. to its most S. point it is
316 m. long, and from E. to W. it is 321 m. broad, reckoning from the E. frontiers
of the Rewa Kanta to the most W. extremity of Kathiawad.
It is bounded on the N. by the Gulf and Ran of Kachh, Jodhpfir, Sirohi, and
Udaipfir; on the E. by Don a%|1r, Banswada, Dohad, ’Alirajp1’1r, Akrani, and
Khandesh; on the S. by the . onkan and the sea ; and on the W. by the sea.
The General aspect of the Division is that of a rich plain, in many parts posses-
sing a deep black soil, admirably adapted for the production of cotton, and all
the varieties of grain. Rice is much cultivated near the river Sabarmati, wheat
in the N. parts and in Kathiawad. In Sorath and Kathiawad pro er, both of them
divisions of the peninsula of Kathiawad, are hill districts, calle the larger and
lesser Gir. To the N. of these are the famous hills of Junagarh. There are also
hills at Palitana, on the E. coast of Kathiawaql, and in some other parts of that
peninsula, and in the N. part of the Gaikwa¢_l’s dominions. The climate of this
ivision is extremely hot, the thermometer ranging from 90° to 105° within walls
during the hot weather. Fevers are very common, and at times cholera commits
great ravages. The fall of rain is moderate, but in Kathiawad it is scanty, and
periodical famines are caused by the utter want of rain.
The Sub-divisions and Ohief Towns of the four Gollectorates comprised in this
division are as follows :—-
Anuaninén.
Tziluks or 5I\q1'l1€(I))lS\l'l8l0l15 from chief Towtm Distance 112% gliggugggriiltrom
1 Parantij (Purrantij) Parésitij 31 N .E.
2 Viramgam (Veerumgaum) Viram am 34 \V. by N.
3 Daskrohi Ahmadabad Ahma abad —--i
4 Jetal ur Jetalpur 8 S.
5 Dhol a Dholka 20 S.W.
6 Dhanduka Dhanduka -57 S.\V.
7 Gogha (Gogo) Gogha 120 S.


~i
424 sun-mvrsroivs AND earns TOWNS. Sect. II. Bombay.
xnnni (KAIRA).
Trilnks or isions from Cm“ Townm Distance sK.1:iBgair(ek0gii1p;)from
1 Kapadwaiij (Kupperwunj) Kapadwanj 25 N .E.
2 Muhiidha (Moouda. or Mhounde) Mnhiidha 12 E. by N.
3 Thasra (Tasra) Thlisra 20 E.
4 Mata: Matar .3§ S.
5 N adiyad (Ncraid) N adiyad 12 S.E.
6 Napad (Nappa) " Napad 20 S.E.
7 Borsad (Boorsud) Borsad 24 S.
nnmucu (BROAUH).
Taluks or S1lqib£(I,)gvlslons from cm“ T°wm_ Dl!tan%gl::_i‘4Ec%ii('%crf::hl;r'0m
1 Jainbusar (Jumbooseer) Jainbusar 27 N.
2 Aiimod (Ahmode or Ahmood) Kiimad 20 N.
3 Wégra Wagra 13 N.W.
4 Bharuch (Breach) Bharuch
5 Ariklesar Aiiklesar 4 S.
6 Haiisot (Hansoot) Haiisot 13 S.W.
sunxr.
Tsluki or S§Pg))lsV'l510l]l trorn chief Town.‘ Distance and clsiaggttton from
1 Kudsad Kudsad 13 N.E.
2 Orpad (Oolpafi) Orpad 7 N.W.
3 Kadod (Curro e Kadod 24 E. by N
4 Mai1(_lwi (Maundwee) Ma.i'1r_lwi' 27 E. by N
5 Chorashi Surat
6 Supé (Soopa) KaliyaWadi(Kalliawaree) 16 S.
7 Parchol J alalpur 17 S.
8 Sarbhon Sarbhon 18 S.E.
9 Walogl Wélod 29 S.E. -
10 Chikhli (Chiklee) Chikhli 32 S._
11 Walsod (Bulsar) Walsod 38 S.
12 Parnera Balda Pizrdi (Baldee) 46 S.
13 Bagwada (Bngwara) Bugwada 53 S.
The great Peninsula of Kat_hiaw='i<_1 is divided into the following provinces,
which are given in the order from N. and N .W. to S. and S.VV. :—
1 J hfilawéd. 6 Uiid Sarweya.:
2 Machhu Kantfr. 7 Klithiawad.
3 Hal ad. 8 Sorath.
4 Olilia Mai'i<_ia1. 9 Barda or Jaitwad.
5 Gohelwfid , - l0 Babriawfid.
1. Jha'la'wa'r_i, or the country of the J hf-ilas, contains 54 Taluks. of which the
rincipal are Halwad Drangdra, Limrf, Wadwan, Wankanir, Than, Sails, and
hnra, all of them petty chiefships. In Halwad Drangdra alone there are 122
towns and villages; and the whole province, in 1842, contained 240,325 inhabi-
tants. In this province are also the petty States of Mi'il'i and Ba'ana, the former
occupied by Parmar Rajpiits, the latter b Jats, who are now uhammadans;
the Muhammadan States of Dasahra and anod; the Koli State, Jhinjuwada;
and part of the Kuiibi State, Patrf. 2. Machhu Ku'1i_ld has but two taluks, Morvi
Tankara and Mallia, thc former containing 48 and the latter 6 towns and villages.
The principal towns in these taluks bear the same names as the taluks, and are
the capitals of the Rajas of Morvi and Mallia. The present Morvi Chief is the
eighth in descent from Rho Dhanjf of Kachh, whose son Ravaji obtained Morvi


Northern Div. SUB-DIVISIONS AND CHIEF TOWNS. 425
in A.D. 1677, but was murdered in 1698 by the son of a younger brother. Since
this event the youn er branch has been seated on the throne of Kachh, the elder
retaining Machhu ants and part of Wagar. The census of 1842 ave 28,749
inhabitants to Machhu Kai'it_a. 3. Haldd comprises 26 ttluks, but o these that
of N owanagar alone contains 231 towns and villages, Drapa 199, Gondal Doraji
81, Kotra Sangani 19, and Dharol 15. The city of N owanagar, founded b Jam
Rawal in x.n. 1540, is the most populous city, and Halad the largest an most
populous province in the whole peninsula. It contained 358,560 inhabitants
according to the census quoted above, and is entirely occupied by J adeja Rajpiits,
so notorious for the practice of infanticide. Their principal chiefs are the Jam of
N owanagar, whose ancestor, J am Hula, conquered the rovince and bequeathed
his name to it, the Rajas of Gondal, Rajkot, Dharol, and otra Sangani. 4. O/chd
Manda! has but one taluk, also called Okhfi Maiiglal, containing 43 villages and
12,690 inhabitants, who are Waghars, professing both Hinduism and Muham-
madanism. These people are pirates and robbers, and have several times come
into sanguinary collision with British troops. 5. Gohelwdqi contains 27 taluks,
of which Bhfionagar and Palitana are the principal. Bhaonagar alone contains
no less than 423, Palitana 33 towns and villa es. It is in the hands of the Gohel
Rajptits, who were driven out of Mai-war in t e end of the 12th century A.D. by
the Rathors. _Bhiionagar was founded by Bhao Singhji in 1742; and the Raja,
who has assumed the title of Rawal for that of Gohel, is very wealthy, and a most
enlightened, excellent chief. Throughout the revolt he showed himself the
staunch ally of the British, and has always been earnest and zealous in promoting
the spread of civilization. Palitana is famous for its Jain temples, and is a most
curious and interesting place on other accounts. In 1842 Gohelwad contained
247,980 inhabitants. 6. Urid Sarweya is divided into 23 taluks, but there are
but 33 villages in all, and the whole population was but 11,373 at the census of
1842. UM signifies “ low,” and the word is applied to this district as the low
country on the banks of the Shatrunii river. This division is ehiefl interesting
as belonging to the last remnants of t e Rajpiit tribe, which ruled in t e Peninsula
before the tribes, which at present are the chief occupants, invaded it. 7. Ka'-
_th:'a‘wa'a_1 is divided into five principal districts, which, naming them from N. to S.,
are—l, Panchfil; 2, Wasawad; 3, Kharapat; 4, Ala Dhanani; and 5, Khu-
man. These again are sub-divided into 55 taluks, of W ich Amreli contains 120,
Jaitpur Chital 58, Bhilka 8, Babra 79, Jasdhan 33, Chotila 13, and Sudamra 11
towns and villages. The whole population of this large and central province was,
in 1842, only 189,840. It was conquered by its present occupants, the Kathis,
towards the close of the 14th cent , and their continual wars and intestine
struggles have tended to keep down t eir numbers. 8. Sorath. This, the most
interesting province in the whole Peninsula, both as respects natural scenery and
architectural remains, contained, in 1842, 320,820 inhabitants. It has seven
divisions——1, Bhadar Kaiita; 2, Noli Kénta; 3, the larger Gir; 4, the lesser
Gir; 5, the larger Nager; 6, the lesser N ager; 7, the Gar. The two first divi-
sions are so called from the rivers which flow from them. The Gir is a very
remarkable tract, consisting of a succession of rid es and hills, covered so densely
with forest trees and jungle that Colonel Jacob* escribes himself as marching for
20 miles Within it without finding room to itch a small tent. It extends from
Koriar, near Mendarra, in Sorath, on the N. ., 50 miles, to Dadan, on the Ragna
river, in Babriawad, on the S.E.; and from Sarsai on the N. to Ghantwar on the
S., 30 miles. This mass of hills is divided by two main vallies running N. and S.,
into which pour from the adjacent heights innumerable streamlets, that form the
Singfira and Rawal rivers, that enter the sea near Korinar and Panikra. The
main lines of communications are through these vallies. There are three other
roads, but no cross communication save by difficult footpaths. Towards the N.
' Selectionsjrom Bombay Records for1856, No. 87. P. 9-


428 insroaicu. sxarcn. Sect. II. Bombay.
Godra. It is 54 in. from N. to S., and 34 from E. to W. The Chief is a Solankhi
Riijpfit, descended from the very ancient family that ruled in Anhilwfida Pattan.
His ancestors founded a chiefship at Virpiir in s..n. 1161, and in 1434 removed to
Lunawada. There is but one parganah, of the same name as the capital Luna-
wees, containing 253 villages. This is the only district in all the Rewa Keats
which is level and well cultivated. Besides the above there are a number of petty
chiefs or thakirs, called Mahwési, Le. dwellers in strongholds, who reside on the
banks of the Mahi and Narmada rivers, and possess from 1 to 12 villages each.
Their country is wild, jungly, and full of ravines.
The Main’ Ka’1_:ta’ is bounded on the N. by the mountainous Bhil districts of
Mewad and Sirohi, on the S. by the Gaikwad’s districts of Dehgaiiw and the
Collectorates of Ahmadabtid and Kheda, on the E. by Doiigarpfir, and on the W.
by Pahlanpiir and the Géiilrwad’s territory. It is divided into 6 zil'as or counties—-
1, N ahni (little) Mfirwad, including all the ossessions of the Raja of Ydar and
his famil ; 2, Rehwar, belonging to the ehwfir Rapfits; 3, Sabar Kanta;
4, Watra Kantéi; 5, Bavisi, comprising Mehwfisi vilages; 6, Katosan. Of
these, Nahni Marwad contains 10 taluks, Rewar 5, Saber Keats 12, Watrak
Kanta 11, Katosaii 18, and Bavisf or Bahiyal 24. The only places of importance
are Idar and Ahniadnagar, and even these are very small towns. The count
is level towards the S. and W., and to the N. and E. gradually rises into hills. Yt
is everywhere beautifully wooded, and abounds with game and wild beasts.
2. HISTORICAL SKETCK—CASTES—EMPLOYMENTS OF THE NATIVEB.
According to the legend, Ki-ishriah himself reigned in Surashtra, now called
Kathiawad and Gujarat, when, flying from J urasindhu, king of Magadha, he
caused the city of Dwarika to be built m the ocean, on the divine quoit Sudarshan.
This tradition points to a date of extreme antigity for the peopling of this region;
and though, according to Pauranik account, warika was submerged after the
death of Krishnah, there is ground for thinking this a mere poetical embellish-
ment, and for believing that the present town occupies the site of one of India’s
oldest cities. It is also reasonable to suppose that the Kryan nation, which dwelt
so long on the banks of the Indus, shoul have sent emigrants into Gujarat long
before they descended by the Panj ab into the valleiy of the Ganges. Accordingly
we find in the Periplus the country spoken of as ready brought under the sway
of an independent monarch; and the Girniir inscri tions show that in the 3rd
century before Christ the country formed aportion of t e empire of Central India.‘
Descending from the le endary times, the first secure stepping-stone of history is
obtained in the city of ar gaza, mentioned by Ptolemy and Arrian, the Bhriguk-
shetr or Bharuch of the indfis. Next in antiquit , perhaps, is Dholka, 22 m.
S.W. of Alimadlibad, founded, according to Colonel 0 , by Kanaksen, a prince
of Ayodhya or Oudh, in A.D. 145. About 550 A.D. his descendants founded the
city of Vidarbha, afterwards called Sinhfir (Seehore), close to the modern Bhao-
nagar ; and niuch earlier after their arrival, the renowned Balabhi (W ullubhee),
10 m. to the N ., a city which was 12 Icon in circumference. According to the
Jain writings, Balabhi was destroyed by a miracle, resembling that which over-
whelmed Sodom and the cities of the plains, in the year Vikrani 375 = A.D_ 319,
while Colonel Tod? makes that year the beginning of an aara, called the aara of
Balablii. Tradition, then, would give to the city an antiqluity little short of 2000
years; and this is confirmed by arguments drawn from t e character of its ruins.
These are now buried to a depth of from 12 to 18 ft.;1 and upon this superin-
cumbent soil grow numerous s ecimens of the Salvadora Persica. From the very
slow growth of this tree, and t c prodigious size§ it has attained, it may safely be
' For the ancient dynasties of Surfishtra. see Jour. R01/. 4|. So¢., vol. xii.,art. i., and Prin-
sep’s Antiquities. En. Thomas. vol. ii.. p- 85 etc. _ 'r Weatcm India, p. 506.
3 “_T§otes on the ancient city of Balabhipurn,” by B. A. Nicholson, Jo_ur. of the Roy, 4|. Soc.,
vol. xiii., p. 148. § Ibid.


Northern Div. HISTORICAL SKETCH. 429
inferred that ages have assed since the city was submerged. From the ruins
huge bricks, weighing 35 lbs. each, are got up in inexhaustible abundance, made
of straw and clay, and forming the pavements of the submerged houses, a practice
wholly at variance with all that is known of the customs of the Hindus, and pre-
supposing a great antiquity for the buildings. The walls of the modern and
adjoining town of Walle are built of Cyelopean blocks of granite, which were taken
from an ancient pier leading to the fort of Balabhi, the sea having been then much
nearer to the city than it now is to its site. It would appear that the Chinese
Buddhist priest Hiuan Thsang visited Balabhi between A.D. 618-627, and de-
scribes it as a cit 30 leagues in circumference.‘ Previous to this, in 524 A.D.,
the princes of Ba abhi were driven from their ca ital by an invasion of barbarians,
Fhoin Colonel Tod set down as Parthians, Mr. Vgathen 1- and Mr. Elphinstonej as
ersians.
The Balabhi dynasty was succeeded by that of the Chaoras or Chawadtis of
Anhilwada, now called Pattan, which, accordin to Tod, became the capital of
Surashtra in 746 A.D. There were 7 princes of t is dynasty, and they rcigncd till
925 11.1). They were succeeded by the Solankhi dynasty of 11 princes, who reigned
till A.D. 1172; and were followed by the Baglhela or Chfilukya dynasty, which con-
tinued till 1294, and comprised 6 rinces. T e wars between the Solankhi kings of
Kalyari in the Daklian and the Cliaora princes of Gujarat are sung in the Itatan
Mdld, or “ Chaplet of Gems,” an ancient Hindu poem ; and it would appear that
the former were victorious, and held both Gujarat and the Konkari for some time.
It is certain at least that Mfilriij, the first king of the 2nd dynasty of Anhilwada
was from Kalyari, and was the son-in-law and murderer of Samnnt, the last
Chaora monarch. In fact it may safely be assumed, with Mr. Walter Elliot,§ “that
the two powerful dynasties of Gujarat and the Dakhan had a common origin."
The Bfighela dynasty was extinguished hy Alléhu’d-din, the Emperor of Delhi,
surnamed Quint, or the bloody, from his many wars and massacres. From his
time commences the Muhammadan period, for which see Introduction, p. lxix.
On the fall of the Mugul empire the Marathas conquered Gujarat. Pillaji
Gaikwad, said to have been a servant || of Amabai, widow of Dhahadia Sena ati,
but nephew of Damaji, who, in 1720, was ap ointed by Sahu Raja secon in
command to Khaiide Rao Dhabadia, with the tit e TI of Shamshir Bahfidur, was the
Maratha General who acquired a footing for his nation and for himself in this
magnificent rovince. After various intrigues and successes, Pillaji joined Trimbak,
the son of K angle Rae, in a contest with the Peshwa Baji Rae I.; and on the
lst of April, 1831, was defeated with him at a great battle fought between Baroda
and Dubhai. Pillaji himself was wounded, an one of his sons was slain, as were
Trimbak Rae and many other leaders of note. Next year Pilla'i was assassinated at
Dhakur by the emissaries of Ahhi Singh, Raja of J odhpiir. e bequeathed to his
eldest son Dama'i the government of Ahmadtibad with the supremacy in Gujarat,
and to his secon son 9 parganahs, a artition which was confirmed by the Peshwa
and the Rafa of Sattira. Some time ' r Darnaji went to Piinah and bound himself
to ay to t e Peshwa 150,000 rupees a year, to aid him in which his brother ceded
to him 4 of his 9 parganahs. In 1768 Dama'i sent his second son, Govind Rae,
to aid Raghunath Rae in the contest for t e Peshwashi with Mahadeo Rae.
Shortly after Damaji died, and was succeeded_b Govin _ Rae, the eldest son,
Sayaji, being an idiot. But Fatih Singh, the thir son, obtained from the Peshwa
permission to act as deputy for his brother Sayfijfi, who was by a different mother
from her who had given birth to Govind. e result was a constant struggle
between Govind and Fatih Singh, and in l775_ the Peshwa sided with Fatih Singh,
while Raghunath Rae, the ex-Pcshwa, and the Bombay Government joined
* Juur. A0. Soc. Bengal, vol. v., p. 685. T Jour. Q/‘As. Soc. Q/Bengal. vol. iv., p. 680, etc.
: History q/India. p, 210. %-Iour. ofthe R01/.Au. Society, vol. iv.. p.6.
ll Jour. q/the I601/. As. Society. vol. iv.. n. 365. Grant Duff, vol. i.. p. 472.


430 i HISTORICAL SKETCH. Sect. II. Bombay.
Govind. On the 17th of Februa , 1775, Hari Pant, the Pcshwffs General, de-
feated Raghunath at Washd, on t e Mahi river. On the 27th, Colonel Keating,
with 1,500 men, arrived at Surat to join Raghunath, and after receiving rein-
forcements, which brought his little army up to 2,500, this officer effected a junc-
tion with the defeated force of the ex-Peshwa at Dharmaj, 11 m. N.E. of Kham-
ba at. In the meantime, Khaiide Rae, the uncle of the Gaikwad, had been
in uced to secede from him; but Hari Pant’s army was weakened by the de ar-
ture of Holkar and Sindhia, who left him, carryin with them 12,000 horse. he
English and their ally now advanced towards heda, and on the 28th of April
engaged Hari Pant at Asamli, and again, four days after, near the same place.
From the 5th to the 8th of Ma two more skirmishes took place; and on the 18th,
about a mile and a half from apad, a pitched battle took place, called the battle
of A'rés, in which Hari Pant was at length driven back, but not till after part of
the British troops had turned their backs and great loss had been sustained. The
English detachment lost‘ 222 men, of whom 86 were Europeans and 11 oflicers.
Raghunatlfs loss was far more considerable. It is remarkable that the action took
place on the plain whcrc Raghunath had 'ust before been defeated by the Peshwa’s
army. Shortly after the war was conclu ed by a treaty between Colonel Keating
and Fatih Singh, by which the latter was left in possession of Gujarat on paying
80,000 rupees to Raghunath, and ceding to the English Bharuch and 3 parganahs
in other parts of Gujarat. James Forbes, the author of the Orslental Memoirs,
was present throughout the campaign, and has described it in the 16th and four
following chapters of the lst vol. of that work. Govind Rho now re aired to the
Dakhan, where he remained until the death of his rival brother, Fa ' Singh, left
the field again open to him. Fatih Singh died at Baroda on the 21st of December,
1789, in consequence of a fall from an upper story in his house. Mandi, a
younger brother, was appointed Regent in su ersession of Govind, who was t en
1n obscurity at a village near Pfinah. But anaji died on the lst of August,
1793, and on the 19th of December in that year Govind was acknowledged Regent,
and at last set out to secure his birthright. He died on the 19th of September,
l800,1- leaving 4 legitimate and 7 illegitimate sons besides dau hters. The eldest
legitimate son, A’nand Rae, was placed on the throne, but anhoji, the eldest
illegitimate son, soon usurped the entire powers of the State. After a few months
he was deposed by Raoji, the minister of the late Govind; but the cause of
Kaiihoji was espoused by Malhfir R510 Gaikwad, first cousin of the late Govind,
and son of Khande Rho, the chief to whom Pilla'i had be ueathed 9 parganahs,
and who is called by Grant Dufl' the J agirdar o Karri. he Bombay Govern-
ment sent a force under Sir W. Clarke to assist Raoji, and on the 30th of April,
1801, this force stormed Malhar Rao's entrenched camp near Kan-i with the loss
of 163 killed and wounded. This victory was followed by the surrender of Malhar
Rao and the occupation of Kerri. In 1802 fresh troubles arose, owing to the
Arabs in Baroda, 7000 in number, supporting Kaiihoji in another attempt to
acquire power. On Dec. the 28th Col. Woodington took the town of Baroda,_ but
not without severe loss. Some of the Arabs submitted, others went off and joined
Kaiihoji, who fled to Raj ipla. Here they were utterly defeated on the 6th of Feb.
1803, by Major, afterwar Sir G. Holmes. The British loss was upwards of 100,
including 5 officers. The affairs of the Gaikwa<_l's dominions were now restored
to order by the able mana ement of the Resident at Baroda, Colonel A. Walker.
To him also belongs the onor of being the first to institute measures for the
suppression of infanticide in Kathiawad. Malhur Rao, who had again endeavored
to foment disturbances, was taken, and sent prisoner to Bombay, where he died.
Karihoji surrendered in 1808, and was sent to Madras. An account of the capture
'_0r, accordi to Forbes, Oriental Memoirs. vol. l., p. 834.11 European offlccrs, so European
soldiers kllled an mlsslng, a great many native oiflcers, and 200 npahil. The account in the
text is lven b Thornton, bu Forbes was an eye witnosl.
1’ R Md! , V01. 11., p. 25.


Northern Div. CASTE8—EMPLOY1\!EN’I‘S or THE narrvns. 431
of Malhar Rao, and of affairs in the Gaikwa<_i’s dominions during this eriod, was
found among the MSS. of Governor Duncan, and has been publis ed by the
Royal Asiatic Society.‘
On the 21st of April, 1805, a treaty of alliance was concluded between the
British Government and Anand Rao Gaikwad, b which the latter agreed to
receive a permanent subsidiary force. In 1815, angadhar Rao Shastri, the
rime minister of Knand Rao, was sent to Punah to negotiate with the Peshwa
or the settlement of certain matters ending between them, and on the 14th of
July in that year was barbarously mur ered at Pandharpur b the Peshwa‘s order.
This was one of the principal causes of the war between the ritish and Baji Rho,
which led to the dethronement of the Pcshwa. A'nand Rao died in 1819, and
was succeeded b Sayaji Rao.
The tribes in abiting this division are innumerable, and the habits of some of
them ve peculiar. It will be suificient here to select for notice the Bhils,
Jadejas, athis, and the reli 'ous sect of the J ains.
The Bhils rohably have t eir name from the Sanskrit bhil, which signifies “ to
separate." n that case, the meaning of the term would be “ outcasts,” a signifi-
cation assigned to it by Sir J. Malcolm.-f The native traditions of the tribe
represent them as springing from the union of the god Mahadco with a beautiful
woman met by him in a forest. From this union sprang many children, one of
whom, distinguished by his u liness and vice, killed the favorite bull of the god,
and was banished to the wi derness of Jodhpfir. Driven S., his descendants
settled in the W. boundary of Malwah and Khandesh, in the lofty ranges of the
Vindhya and Sat ura mountains, and the woody and rugged banks of the Mahi,
the Narmada, an the Tapti. The history of the Rajput princes of J odhpfir and
Udepur corroborates the account of this Bhil emigration, and the Bh ats, or min-
strels of the Bhils still reside in Rajputana, and make yearly visits to the present
haunts of the tribe to re 'ster events connected with it. Some of the Bhils have
settled in the lains, an become agriculturists ; but the greater number reside in
the hills, and ive by plunder. Along the Vindhya range from J am to the W. of
Manda the po ulation is wholly Bhil, and for more than a century before the
time when Sir . Malcolm wrote, most of them had been the subjects of the famil
of Nadir Singh, a Bhilalah, 1'. e., one sprung from the marria e of a Rajpfit with
a Bhil female. Nadir had about 200 horse and 700 foot, an was very formidable
until the English cantonment at Mhau was formed. Nadir was then compelled to
discharge his foreign adherents and to renounce lundering; but having relapsed into
his former habits, he was banished to Allahaba , where he died, and his son Bhim
Singh succeeded him. A remarkable account of a residence with Nadir and of some
of his murderous exploits will be found in the Autobiography of Lut ullahq who
was for some time in his ower. The principal Bhil chiefs are calle Bhomiyahs,
and are almost all of the B ilalah tribe. They exercise the most absolute power, and
the most atrocious crimes are committed at the bidding of the Dhani, or “lord,”
as each is st led. As some protection to the tribe against this absolute power,
there are 0 cers called Tarwis, or “ heads,” whose representations must be
attended to by the chiefs. The worship of the tribe is particularly directed to
Mahadeo and Devi, his consort, the goddess of small-pox, as also to some minor
infernal deities. It is remarkable that the Bhil women are inclined to be merciful
and chaste, while the men are brutal, cruel, drunken, and debauched. The re-
forms in the tribe have all been assisted by the women.
The Jddejda, according to Captain James Macmurdo,§ Resident at Anjar in
Kachh, than whom no man was ever better acquainted with the tribes of this part
of India, are a branch of the great Samma tribe, once so powerful in Sindh, and
assumed the title of Jadeja from a celebrated chief named J ada. He appears to
' Vol. iv., 11.865. T Central India, vol. i., p. 519. 1 P. 111.
Q I/It. flmu. of Bomb., vol. 11., p. 220.


432 cssrizs-nnrronrnivrs or rrrn NATIVES. Sect. II. Bombay.
have been a Muhammadan, who married the dau hter of a Hindu chief. After
his death this wife was expelled by the others an returned to her father's family.
Her offspring acquired such power that their chief took the title of J am, cor-
responding with that of the chief of their Muhammadan brethren in Sindh, and
the title was handed down for nine generations in direct descent, until the middle
of Akbar’s reign, when Khengar, who had been expelled by his brothers, was
established on the throne of Kachh, by a Muhammadan army sent by his brother-
in-law, the last Sultan of Gujarat. The family from whom the Jams of Nowanagar
are descended, were then expelled, and having settled in Halad, their territory was
called Little Kachh. According to Erskine,* the Sammas attained supreme power
in Sindh by the overthrow of the Sflmrés in 1340, and were themselves overthrown
b Shah Beg Arghun in 1521, when numbers of them fled to Kachh. According to
V$ilson,1~ Udaji the younger, son of the 13th Jam of Kachh, conquered Halad in
1539, s.r>., and this, therefore, will be the date of the establishment of the Jade-
jas in Kathiawad; though Macmurdo dates their arrival in 800, A.n.I The
J adejés got wives from the Sodha Rajputs of Parkar, and most of them returned
to Hinduism. In 1849, accordin to a census by Colonel Lang, the male popula-
tion was-only 7,353. They wors ip Vishnu, the Sun, Shiva, and Devi, whom
they sometimes call Hinglzif and A’sha'purz'. The have Réjgurs, or royal family
priests, distinct from the ordinary brahmans; an they greatl respect Blza'_ls and
Chdrana, family bards and chronielers.§ The remarkable c aracteristic of this
tribe is their systematic murder of their daughters, a practice which has now been
maintained for many centuries; probabl from the time when the Muhammadans
became paramount in Sindh, or as eary as 1,000 A.D. Reckoning the female
births in the tribe at 500 annually, it may fairly be supposed that hundreds of
thousands of lives have been sacrificed in this horrible and unnatural manner by
this one tribe alone! It is one of the most glorious trophies of British rule in
India that this ractice has been checked and almost abolished in Kathiawad,
b the efforts 0 Englishmen, and especially of Colonel Alexander Walker and
hill‘. WiHoughby.|I The J adejas of Kachh differ much from those of Kathiawad.
They are half Muslims, believe in the I_(ur’an, worship Muhammadan saints, eat,
drink, and smoke with Muhammadans, and swear by Allah; but they wear locks
of hair on their heads like Hindus, do not under o circumcision, adore everythinv
in the shape of an image, and will not eat the esh of oxen and other proscribed
animals. The character given to them by Capt. Macmurdo is one of the most re-
volting scnsuality; and there can be no doubt that they are habitual drunkards,
and intoxicate themselves either with wine or opium to such an excess as to deprive
themselves of the use of their reasoning powers altogether. They are listless and
inert; but their women are quite the contrary, being full of energy, which they
too often exhibit in the murder of their husbands and male relatives. In appear-
ance they are fine tall men, with singularly long whiskers—which often come down
to the breast—and handsome features. They owe their good looks to their
mothers, who are of course all from other tribes, there being no females of their
own roared. Some of the ancient traditions of the tribe re resent them as
originally fr0m_1 zgrabia, where the custom of infanticide is 'nown to have
ancient revai e .
The .h'zIi_!hz's are evidently a N. race. Their great stature, their features, and
blue or grey eyes, give an idea that they are of Scythian descentfil The sun is
their chief deity, and its symbol is drawn on every deed at the head of the list of
witnesses, with the words Sim’ Surajni Shdkh, “the witness of the holy sun."
' History of India, vol. i., p. 858. T Dr. J. Wilson, On Infanlicide, p. 56.
Lit. Trans. QfB0mb., vol. 1., p. 269. _
Dr. J. Wilson rightly compares Bhat with the Latin vatea. The CM:-am have their name
from the secular occupation of grazing. Ibtd, p. 57.
11 _ For a full account of the measures adopted. see Dr.J. Wilson On In/anticide. published by
smith. Elder, and 00., 1&5. '4' Bombay Sclcctvona, 37,1856.D.2l.


JWorthern Div. CASTES-EMPLOYMENTS OF THE NATIVES. 433
On the Māndevá hill, near Thán, is a temple to the sun, believed to have been
erected by the Käthis on their first arrival in the country. The image has a halo
round its head. The Káthis were renowned freebooters, and many were living in
1842 who had stuck their spears into the gates of Ahmadābād. Some are of
opinion that it was owing to the awe they inspired in the Marathas that the pro-
vince of Soreth was called Käthiawād, or the country of the Káthis, for, nume-
rically, they have no claim to give a name to the peninsula. According to Mac-
murdo," the arrival of the Káthis in their present locality took place 30 or 40
# before that of the Jádejás, and therefore in the # century A.D. The
athi is a Hindá, although no Hindi will eat with him.
The Jains.—A full account of this curious sect will be found in Prof. H. H.
Wilson's paper in the Asiatic Researches, vol. xvii., and Mr. Erskine's Literary
Transactions of Bombay, vol. iii., p. 494. It is sufficient here to say they hold an
intermediate place between the Buddhists and Brahmanists, but approach more
closely to the Buddhists. Like the Brahmans, they have castes; their priests
never eat flesh; and do not venerate the relics of saints. On the other hand, like
the Buddhists, they disavow the Vedas and the Hinda deities, and in place of
them the Jains worship the 24 Tirthakars or Jinas, i.e., sanctified teachers. The
Jains, like the Buddhists, lived originally in celibacy in monasteries; they select
their priests from the children of all classes of the community; preserve as their
sacred language the Páli or Prakrit, a dialect closely resembling the Magadhi, or
vernacular tongue of S. Bahár; have nearly the same traditional chronology; do
not eat after sunset, and sweep the spott on which they sit down, for fear of
destroying animal life. Both sects, too, maintain in common with the school of
Kanada, the doctrine of eternal atoms or elements. The Buddhists have entirely
disappeared from India, but the Jains remain in considerable numbers in Márwād,
Gujarat, the S. Konkan and S. Maratha country, Kanada, and Malabar. Their
riests may be known by a covering over the mouth to prevent them destroying
insect life in breathing, and by carrying a broom to sweep their path and place
where they sit, with the same object. It is remarkable that, though so '
chary of animal and insect life, they regard the infanticide prevalent in Kathiawād,
where they are very numerous, with complete indifference #
The Bhats and Chárans, bards and genealogists, of this province were remark-
able for devoting themselves to wounds and death, in order to protect those
to whom they had pledged their faith, to recover debts, or to effect any purpose
which they could not gain by force, but might hope to accomplish by inspiring
others with superstitious awe. Thus a Bhāt of Viramgáñw in 1806 put his
daughter of 7 years old to death, and sprinkled her blood on the gate of the
Mällia chieftain's castle, in order to compel him to pay a debt to the Gaikwad,
for which the Bhāt had become security. Others have sacrificed their parents,
and many have committed suicide, to effect like ends. This practice is called
traga, and was rightly abolished by the British Government.
* Lit. Transactions of Bombay, vol. i., p. 270. f Jour. As. Soc. Bombay, for 1844, vol. ii., p. 81.
**':#### * s
19


434
Sect. II.
RoUTE 21.-BoMBAY To MoUNT ABU.
ROUTE 21.
FROM BoMBAY To MoUNT ABU, BY SU-
RAT, BHARUCH (BROACH), BARODA,
RHAMBAYAT (CAMBAY), AHMADABAD,
AND Dísá, RETURNING BY ANHIL-
wADA PATTAN, víRAMGANw, RAJKoT,
DwARKA, JUNAGARH, MANIKwáDá,
PALíTANA AND GoGHA.
1244 M. # F.
MILITARY AUTHORITY.—From Dá-
man to Sewan: Officer commanding at
Surat—Surat. Thence to Khambáyat:
Officer commanding at Baroda–Baroda.
Thence to Adálij: Officer commanding
at Ahmadābād-Ahmadabdd. Thence
to Metá: Officer commanding at Baroda
—Baroda. Thence to Disã : Officer
commanding at Disã—Disd. Thence
to Kálri: Political superintendent at
Påhlanpūr—Påhlanpur. Thence to Wi-
ramgáñw: Officer commanding at Ah-
madābād – Ahmadabad. Thence to
Goghā: Officer commanding at Rajkot
-Rajkot.
CIVIL AUTHORITY.—Dáman to Se-
wán: Collector at Surat—Surat. Thence
to Miagáñw: Collector at Bharuch–
Bharuch. Thence to Sindrot: Resi-
dent at Baroda–Baroda. Thence to
Nowakal: Collector at Kheda—Kheda.
Thence to Jarola : Resident at Baroda
—Baroda. Thence to Lälli : Col-
lector at Kheda—Kheda. Thence to
Adālij: Collector at Ahmadābād-Ah-
maddbdd. Thence to Metá : Resident
at Baroda–Baroda. Thence to Kálri:
Political superintendent at Påhlanpür—
Pahlanpur. Thence to Wiramgáñw:
Collector at Ahmadābād—Ahmadabad.
Thence to Goghā : Political agent in
Káthiawād—Rajkot.
PLACES, STAGES.
M. F. M.F.
For the Route from BOM-
BAY to NAWAPURA
see Route 5 ..... .......1252: 125.2%
x Dáman Gangá r. to
Chhotá Dàman, b, ... 1 2
Mardār ..................... 1 0
x creek and Baglán r. to
Kolak.......... - - - - - - - - - 3 0
Udwād ............... •- 1 3
x Piri Ali Creek to
UMARSARI dh....... 4 3 11 0
PLACES,
x Narpár r. to Dongarí
x Bán creek to Shegwi
x r. and creek to Alär...
BAHAR, b.p.o....... •-
x 3 creeks and Bám r....
UNDAS ........
GANDAVI -
Sonwádí........... • • *-
x Ambikä or Ib r. 200
yds. wide, to Sallaij...
Tigra ........................
Nausári...........
KALIAWADI’..
Kácheawādā .....
Asunda ..... - - - - -
Pásra on Mindola or Má-
dágrír. .............. ...
ELACHPUR b. .........
Sachin .............
Baistan ...
Udná........................
a) Nausári Gate of Surat
ANTONMENT, b.p.o.
Veriwau.................. -
x Tapti r. to SEWAN
Karel1
KIM CHOKI or KATA-
DRA b, ............... -
Panaulf .............
UMARWADA -
Anklesir................. • -
b) x Narmada r. to
BHARUCH (Broach),
b.p.o. .. -
Sítápar........
TANK ERA b.
Ichar.......... -
MIAGANW b...
Anistu ................... -
ITOLA. b. and dh. ......
Jambuá................. -
(c) BARODA b.p.o.
Gorwa
Serki ........ -
Sindrot .................. -
x Mahí r, to OMETA...
Nowakal ..................
Kinchlor ..
Pipli ..... -
BADRUN
1
|
|
STAGES.
#
#
i
M.
6
£5
1
!
10
11
11
12
10
14
11
F.
0}


Bombay.
435
RouTE 21.—BoMBAY To MoUNT ABU.
PLACES.
Jarolá .....................
SAIDPUR ..
Jantral ... ....
WATADRA..
Unel ........................
(d), Khambāyat, Gowádá
Gate .....................
Through town to FAC-
TORY b, ...............
N. Gate of Khambáyat...
Akbarpur ........ • * * * * * * * * •
Käsäri • • •
Saima........
Hariáná...............
Rămol or Rāmauli
Inallataj
Alindra .....
Ratanpūr ..................
KHEDA CAMP and
RIVER,..................
(e) Kheda Town, b. p. o.
x Wätrak r............ • * * *
Sumádra ....
Wasna .....
Dharmsälä..
LALI b. ..
Chaukí .....
Batwā • * *
Esanpūr.....................
(f) AHMADABAD. N.
or DELHI GATE ...
x Sábarmatí r.............
Gâmri
Karjisan...........
Warsmä............. - - - - -
•- - - - - * * *
STAGES.
|
9
2
#
146;
1
0
2
4
}
10 0}
10 5
9 5
#
1
3
1
1
FLACES.
LANGNAJ ...............
Akhaj............ -
Sangampór ...
Kerwä .........
Karwāsan ...
Râmptir....
Kukas -
MAISANA b. -
Tarainti.....................
x Rupen n. to Dau ..... •
Jaytalwāsna ........... • • • •
Attohr ..... • * * *
UNJA .....................
Kämlí .... • - ... • * *
Bhília........................
x Saraswati r, to
SIDHPUR, dh. ......
Sajjanpūr ...... -
Dongrí Wasná .. • •
Firüzpúr ..................
x Amardesí r. to META
Basu ........................
Pattosan b.
GAD b. ......
Sámdi ... -
Dhuá........................
(g). CAMP near DISA
CAVALRY LINES b.
Râmpair.....................
x Banás r. to Bharat ...
DONPURA .......... • * * * *
Gárá ......... - - -
Kuchawádá ...
X ". . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Wangdá or Magriwádá
Warmán...... • * * *
REODAR ...
X *. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...
x Sip r. 437 yds. wide to
Lunol................. • • * *
Dáman ...... • * *
ANADRA..................
(h) NAKHI TALAO on
MOUNT ABU b.......
Return from ABU to
DIS - - - - - - - • • •
A.
End of Town..............
4.
|
STAGES.
F
#
#|
}
}
:
#
4
||
|
|
9
1
2
1
4
7
9
8
1
1
8
1
0
6
. M. F.
3}
7%
2}


436 RouTE 21.—BoMBAY To MoUNT ABU. Sect. II.
PLACES. STAGES. PLACES. STAGES.
M. F. M. F. M. F. M. F.
ASRA .............. ....... 44 7 0 | x Nyāri r. to Sarafdar
Nowagáñw 16# on Dundir. ........... . 2 2
Koita......... 4 2% Kajaria .......... ... 33
Jagral ...... 22} KAJJARI................. . 7 0 12 5
WAGROL 35+ 12 1 | x_Und, Ruparel, and
Aggar ..................... 5 3 Mándwá rs. to
URISAN ..... ........ . 12 2 12 2.
43% 96% | x Phaljár and Pāpal rs.
4 4 BARRAJA .......... ... 11 4 11 4
1 7 x Nágnir. to Koranna... 4 0
1 5% x Rangári r....... . 4 4
1 7# 10 0 || ALIKHANA ............ 5 0 13 4
2 6 x Sisir, Wirawa, Dhārda,
2 6 Rándanwá, Sāgaori,
3 5 and Kuná rs. to
2 0 MOTA TUNGI ...... 15 2 15 2
40 151 | x Phúljar, Sian, and Thäl
3 5% rs. to KAMBALIYA.. 12 4 12 4
1 63 x Ghir. ............... ... 1 4
55% X 74. ....... 1 5
2 2 VIRAMDAR ...... . 3 5 6 6
12 14 5% Bhâtel and Magpúr ...... 4 2
24% GADKA ......... - 6 5 10 7
4.4% BATTEA ......... ... 10 0 10 0
4 0} Mukhtasir Talao - 6 4
# WIRAMGANW dh. 3 5} 14 7 MADHI ................. . 5 4 12 0
abatpar .................. 6 4 DINGI ........ • ... 10 0 10 0
WANTA or WAITAL- Dosá Talão ...... ... 60
GARH ................ ... 4 2 10 6 (*) DWARKA:::::::::::: 2 0 8 0
Charopi...... 4 3 DWARKA to RAJKOT 1473; 1473}
Ulká ...... 27 X 10. ....... - .... 26
Kadu........................ 3 3 Kotáriya ... 2 4
LAGTAR .................. 33 14 0 || Kokardar ..... - .... 22
WADWAN .............. 11 0 1 1 0 | x Kokardarí r............. 0 4
Kherālu.......... * * * * * * * * * * * 5 0 x r. to GUNDASIRA... 5 3 13 3
Limblí ... . 1 3 Ardari ..................... 2 1
Jaspór ... . 4 0 x r. to Harmatálá ...... 1 7
MULI ... 30 13 3 | x Gundasri r, twice and
Garādh ........ . 2 3 a n. to Simla............ 1 6
Dedán ........... . 1 0 x n. to Nerf ............... 2 2
Umrád ......... •- - - . 3 0 x Ashapuria r. to a temple 14
CHORWIRA 30 93 | x 3 n. to GONDAL...... 1. 3 10 7
TAUHN .......... 9 0 9 0 | x n and pass a mosque... 1 5
Lákamachí .. . 3 2 x4 n. to Gomtā ......... 7 0
Sarori.......... . 4 0 x n. to WIRPUR......... 2 5 11 2
MYKA ..... 5 3 12 5 || Wasotri............ - 3 6
Ghiáwar..... . 7 0 Petrea .............. ....... 1 4
Wanjarí.. 1 0 x Bhādar r. to JAITPUR 3 2 8.4
Khairwā .. 1 0 KORALU.............. .... 13 0 13 0
SUNASRA ..... - 30 12 0 | (m) JUNAGARH......... 8 0 8 0
(k) RAJKOT, b. p. o. ... 9.0 9.0 CAMPat MANIKWADA200. 20 0
Gantear..................... 5 0 Mánikwada village ...... O 4
TARAGRI ............... 7 1, 12 1} | Munjesar .................. 31


Bombay. RoUTE 21. - BoMBAY To MoUNT KBU-sURAT. 437
PLACES.
BAGASRA ........... • * * *
x Satalgangá r. • * *
X %. ......... • • • - - -
SARBARA .............. •
x Chatroji r. 100 yds.
wide to Daularwā......
X %. ............. • - - - - - - -
GARMALLI
Sarkhá ....... •-
X *. ...........
x Sailāwā r...
Jhira ...
Budrāl
X %. ..... • * *
SABAR.................... •
x Chatrojí r. 110 yds.
wide to Sadálu ....... •
x Gangri r. 50 yds. wide
to Karákas.... • • •
X %. ........
Bheládí ...
X %. .....
X 74. ...
X %. ...
Vírdí ..
GIRIADHAR .
Lali .............
Saudā.....
Lilwār ..
(n) PALITANA ....... • •
× Kári r. 16 yds. wide ...
x small n...... • • - - - - - - - - -
Lohārwādi. • * * *
Bundarko ...... • • *-
x Rajwadá r. • • • -
Lowandá ......
x Utauli r.. • * * *
THANA ..................
Dewgannā, and x Rupå-
||
7-
6
0
STAGES.
M. F.
7 6
8
6
1
3
2
6
7
4 14 2
3
6
7
5
1
1
5
1 16 5
3
2
6
5
1
7}
wal r................. • * * * *
4
6
0 1063
3
PLACES. STAGES.
M. F. M. F
x Malesari r............ .... 4 4
Bínkrá .................... . 0 1
x 3n. to WALUKAR ... 3 0 12 0
x Ambatalí r. 25 yds.
wide, and Mallarir. 70
yds. wide, and Kankari
r to (o) CUSTOM
HOUSE at GOG.H.A... 12 1 12 1
1244 0}
From Bombay to Dáman the coast
presents to the spectator from the
steamer * a range of fine bold hills;f
but thence to Surat it is low and flat,
not unlike the Sundarbans # of Bengal.
Umarsdrá is a village of about 400
houses. Balsdr is a town with 7,000
inhabitants, and is a thriving place
with cloth manufactures, and trade in
salt, grain, and sugar. The small river
on £ the town stands, and which
bears the same name, is unnavigable
for vessels of any size, owing to a bar,
on which there is not more than 3 ft. of
water at low tide.
(a) Surat.—Steaming up the Tapti,
on the right, near the city is a house
called the Dutch Garden, where the
Chief of the Dutch Factory formerly
resided. The Dutch quitted Surat in
1822, when the English Government
£ their Factory. The ware-
ouses are now in charge of the Com-
missariat Department, and in the Factory
itself are the traveller's banglá, the Sta-
tion Library, and sets of rooms, which
any visitor may rent. Further on, and
on the brink of the river, is the house
once occupied by the Chief of the French
Factory. This Factory is now the plea-
sure house of a wealthy Banyáñ. The
landing-place is not far from this, near
the Belinda ki Bari, or Dutch Bandar.
The tourist having located himself here,
* The # from Bombay to Surat by
steamer occupies about 22 hours.
t Cities of Gujarashtra, by H. G. Briggs, p.7.
it Written commonly Sunderbunds. The
word is compounded of the Sanskrit sundar,
“beautiful,” and van, “wood,” and affords an
instance, of which Surai is another, of the
inconsistencies of the popular spelling, the w
sound being in these two words properly
represented by u, whereas in general it is
perverted into oo, -


438
Sect. II.
nourn 2l.—BonnAr T0 mourn: AsU—suaaT.
may commence visiting the si hts of the
lace. But, first, he may stu y the fol-
owing sketch.
History of Surat.—This place un-
doubtedly derives its name from the
Sanskrit Surdghfrafl‘ from cu, “ good,"
and rdghlra, “country.” In spite of
the assertions of Ovington, who speaks
of Surat as the Musiris of Ptolem , and
of Hamilton, who declares it to e one
of the most ancient cities of Hindfistan,1-
there is every reason to believe with the
Abbé Raynal, that in the 13th century
Surat was no more than a fishing vil-
la e. The Surashtra of the Ramaya-
na , and the S3/rastrena regio of Aman
are to be understood of the whole coun-
try of Gujarat, which received its present
appellation from the Giijars, a tribe
driven by some invasion far to the E.,
and now spread over the Dihli terri-
tory, the per Doab, and Upper Rohil-
khand. K ambayat (Cambay) was the
seaport of the Hindfi monarchs, who
ruled in this part of India, and Surat
rose into importance as being the place
at which the ilgrims to Makkah em-
barked from al parts of Hindfistan, in-
somuch that Surat was called by the
Muhammadans of India, “the Gate of
Makkah.” The castle of Surat, the
oldest building in the Parganah, is
about 300 years old; but there are
some far more ancient ruins on the
other side of the river, which are said
to be the remains of the Hiuda city of
Randir. These remains, the legends
attaching to them, and the advantages
of the site for a commercial emporium,
would show that in the vicinity of the
present Surat there was anciently a
lindfi town; and it may be concluded
that, about five centuries ago, the Mu-
hammadans began to colonize Surat,
'1 Wilson’: Sanskrit Dictionary. '1‘od,in his
Travels in W. India, p. 252. derives the word
Surrlslllra from a people of sun worshippers,


and that, in the 16th century, the place
attained such importance as to lead to
the erection of fortifications,‘ it being
then a ion of the kings of Ah-
madab . The Portuguese found their
way to the place soon after their arrival
in India, and in 1512 sacked the then
open town. On the 19th of January,
157 3, it surrendered to Akbar, after a
siege of 1 month and 17 days. In the
beginning of the 17th century the Eng-
lish began to visit it. Among the first
Englishmen who came to Surat was
Captain Hawkins of the Hector, in
1608, who was kindly received by the
natives, “after their barbarous man-
ner.” On his arrival at Agra, in May,
1609, he was assured of permission to
establish a factory at Surat, but quitted
India without effecting this object. He
left, however, at Surat one William
Finch, who writes that, since Captain
Hawkins obtained the jirmdn for esta-
blishing the factory (which was never
acted upon), “we have lived at our
heart’s ease.” Finch, therefore, may
justly be regarded as the first Com-
pany's A ent at Surat, and two others
intervene before Kerrid e, wrongly
designated the first by An erson in i
7Vestern India. Next year, the Ascen-
sion, Captain A. Sharpey, having been
wrecked at Gouda, on the coast of
Gujarat, 75 of the crew escaped to
Surat, among whom was the Captain,
who was employed by the Mugul Em-
peror to build a ship at the ort. On
the 26th of September, 1611, ir Henry
Middleton arrived with the Peppercorn
and three other ships, and engaged in a
series of conflicts with the Portuguese,
and finally, having disgusted the native
authorities by confining on board ship
the Ex-Governor, Llu4~o_jah Nrl_n'r, was
obliged to depart. The foundation of
the English trade at Surat was next
year laid by Captain Best, who reached
the coast on the 28th of October, 1612,
with the Dragon and the Hosiander,
and fought his way through two Portu-
guese armaments lnto the mouth of the
enlledSau1-as. Haber. who, in Indian et mo-
Ionics, stops beyond his me/fer, wrongly den-
tifles Surat. the name of the city, with tho
Arabic word sfiml, " form,” “ beauty," a gross
mistake. which it ls ain_i’u1 to see perpetu-
ated by Rltter,v0l. iv., iv. ii.,pai~t v1.,b.li., p.629.
An interesting article on Surat—its past and
present—will be found in the Calculta Review,
vol. lx.. p. 108.
+ vm. 1.,p. 270.
_: Elllots Supplement to the Glossary of In-
dian Terml.
river. The Mughul Emperor then sent
1 For a very mu notice of Surat, see Briggs’
Cities or Gwarashgra; and compare An er-
son's W. India 'and the Bombay Quarterly
Review, Nos. 7 and 8.


440
Sect. II.
ROUTE 21.—BOMBAY To MoUNT ABU-su RAT.
a new firmán to the Company, and issued
orders to the Nüwab of Gujarát and the
Súbahdār of the Dakhan to throw no
impediment in the way of the English
trade. On the receipt of this imperial
rescript the English returned to their
factory at Surat. They were, however,
exposed to many annoyances from the
Governors of the city, and especially
from Rustam Khán, who soon after this
time succeeded to the government.
Having espoused the cause of Sirbuland
Khán, Nüwab of Gujarat, in opposition
to Hamid Khán, uncle and deputy of
Nizamu’l-mulk, this Rustam was de-
feated at Aras, mainly through the trea-
chery of Pillaji Gaikwad. He then,
with great difficulty, made his way to
the vicinity of Ahmadābād, where, be-
ing deserted by all but 150 men," he
stabbed himself with his dagger, and
expired on the 10th of February, 1725.
He was succeeded in the Government
of Surat, on the 21st of June, by his son
Suhrāb; on the 5th of April, 1728,
Tegh Beg Khán, who, with the aid of
Mauláná Mahmūd 'Ali, had deposed
Suhráb, was confirmed in the govern-
ment by the Emperor. The £
lent their aid to Tegh Beg in this
revolution, having in view as a reward
a portion of the revenues which had
been set apart by the Emperor for the
payment of his Admirals. This, after
lengthened negotiations with the new
Governor, they were unable to obtain.
On the 28th of August, 1746, Tegh Be
Khán died, having previously entruste
all the executive powers of the govern-
ment to Ghulām Mahmüd, surnamed
Safdar Khán. This chief placed his
son in command of the castle, but he
was shortly after expelled by Miyān
Akhund, a connection of the family,
who, after a struggle, obtained the
Núwabship, but lost the castle, to the
Sidi or Admiral. In order to dispossess
him, Miyan Akhund came to terms
with the English, and a treaty was
signed on the 4th of March, 1759, by
which the castle and fleet were made
over to them, with two lakhs of rupees
* This part of Surat affairs is not given quite
correctly in the Bombay Quarterly for Jan.
1856, p. 73. It was not for some days after the
battle of Aras that Rustam killed himself,
yearly stipend. This was confirmed by
a sanad or grant from Delhi. Miyān
Akhund died in 1763, and the Nawab-
ship descended in his family until, on
the 13th of May, 1800, Mir Nasiru'd
dín, the then Nüwab, was pensioned
and deposed. From that time the go-
vernment of Surat vested entirely in the
Company. On account of the great
interest attaching to the English Fac-
tory at this place, the names of the
Presidents are subjoined, with the dates
of their accession:-
Date of £;
Names of the Chief Factors or ment, or of their
Presidents of Surat. first Public
Dispatch.
Wm. Finch, left in charge
by Captain Hawkins,
writes that, “since Capt.
Hawkins obtained the
firmán, we have lived at
our heart's ease.” The
firmán, however, was
afterwards revoked ... July 12, 1609
Alex. Sharppeigh......... Oct. 11, 1611
Thos. Aldworth. This
chief refused to leave
Surat when desired by
Capt. Best, and by this
firmness a stable settle-
ment was effected in
the place, after several
revious attempts had
ailed. On the 14th of
July, 1612, Aldworth
received a firman, per-
mitting the factory to
be established ......... Jan. 25, 1612
Thomas Kerridge, who
writes that, on the 20th
of Feb., 1612, a second
firmán was received,
addressed directly to
the English, the other
having been sent to the
Governor only ......... Mar 12, 1612
Thomas Kerridge (styled
President, April 1,1620) Oct. 2, 1616
Thomas Rastell............ Nov. 9, 1622
Kerridge returns from
England, Nov.15, 1624,
but does not resume his
Presidentship till ...... April 9, 1625
Richard Wyld .. ... Dec. 12, 1628
Thomas Rastell............ Sept. 29, 1630


I}ombay.
441
Route 21.—BoMBAY To MoUNT ABU-sURAT.
Date of Appoint-
Names of the Chief Factors or ment, or of their
Presidents of Surat. first Public
Dispatch.
Joseph Hopkinson;........ Jan. 23, 1631
William Methwold ...... Feb. 21, 1633
William Fremlen ......... Oct. 20, 1638
Francis Breton ............ Feb. 7, 1643
Thomas Merry............. Jan. 25, 1649
Capt. Jeremy Blackman. Jan. 12, 1651
Edward Pearce ............ Mar. 15, 1654
John Spiller ............... Jan. 19, 1656
Henry Revington ......... Jan. 30, 1656
Henry Greenhill . ... Oct. 16, 1658
Edward Pearce ..... ... Oct 20, 1658
Nathaniel Wyche ......... Jan. 11, 1658
Matthew Andrews......... Mar. 1658
Sir George Oxindon (this
is the way he signs his
name, not Oxenden)... Sept 18, 1662
Gerald Aungier.. ... Oct. 26, 1669
Charles James ............ Aug. 31, 1677
Thomas Rolt............... Feb. 5, 1677
John Child............ ..... Jan. 23, 1681
Bartholomew Harris...... Apr. 28, 1690
Samuel Annesley ......... Jan. 13, 1694
Stephen Colt, for the
older. London Com-
pany ............ - - - - - Mar 11, 1698
Benjamin Newse, for
the E. Company......
Sir Nicholas Waite ..... . Nov. 27, 1698
The last dispatch of Ste-
phen Colt ............... Jan. 10, 1700
Disputes of the rival Com-
panies, violent measures
of Sir N. Waite and
imprisonment of Sir
John Gayer ........ .... 1700–1712
The factory abandoned in
consequence of the me-
naces of the native Go-
vernment ............... 1712–1716
President Charles Boone,
Governor of Bombay,
comes to Surat to exa-
mine into affairs, in
which the late Presi-
dent Annesley is desired
to lend his aid ......... Feb. 22, 1718
John Courtney .. ... Aug. 1, 1724
Henry Lowther............ Aug. 1, 1729
John Lambton .. ... Mar. 16, 1736
James Hope ............... Apr. 13, 1739
Thomas Marsh (died Oct,
9, 1748)........... • - Aug. 4, 1747
Date of Appoint-
Names of the Chief Factors or ment or of their
Presidents of Surat. first Public
Dispatch.
Thomas Dorrill............ Oct. 10, 1748
James Henry Lambe...... Nov. 10, 1749
Charles Crommelin ...... Mar. 23, 1752
Brabazon Ellis...... ... Jan. 17, 1755
John Spencer........... .... Nov. 21, 1758
William Andrew Price... Dec. 6, 1759
Thomas Hodges ......... Oct 1, 1762
William Andrew Price... Nov. 1768
Robert Gambier . Sept. 4, 1769
Daniel Draper ............ Jan. 1, 1771
William Andrew Price
died March 10, 1774), Dec.
Robert Gambier (in Dec.
of this year suspended
on charge of gambling
away the Company's
property) ............... Mar 11, 1774
Rawson Hart Boddam ... May 21, 1776
Thomas Day ......... .... Dec. 15, 1783
Andrew Ramsay ......... Dec. 11, 1785
John Griffith............... April 2, 1787
William Gamuel Farmer Mar. 4, 1795
John Spencer ............ Jan. 13, 1796
Daniel Seton.............. . Feb. 18, 1796
With Mr. Seton ended the series of
Presidents at Surat, and on the 15th of
May, 1800, Edward Galley was ap-
ointed Collector of the Parganahs be-
onging to that city, by Mr. Duncan,
Governor of Bombay, whose proclama-
tion of that date announced that the
rule of the Nüwabs had passed away.
In 1802, by the treaty of Bassein, the
Peshwā surrendered his interest in the
two gates of the city, and the Chauth, or
fourth part, of the revenue of the Zil'a,
which was what the Marathas usually
collected. In 1842, the last titular Nú-
wäb died, and the flag of Delhi was re-
moved from the citadel. The English
Factory is now in parta Lunatic Asylum,
in part a Hospital for natives. It is a
noble pile of £ strength and solidity;
as is also the Portuguese Factory.
Surat City.—The Tapti, after run-
ning for a considerable distance in
almost a direct W. course, turns, about
20 m, from its mouth, in a S.S.W.
direction. Twelve miles after it makes
this bend, it flows past the walls of
Surat, and a few miles below passes a
small island, and just at its mouth a
6, 1771


442
Sect. II.
RouTE 21.—BoMBAY To MoUNT ABU-sURAT.
second island. Opposite this island,
on the S. bank, is Domus, 8 m. from
Surat, a small town, which is a favorite
resort of the residents of Surat during
the summer heats. Facing it, on the
N. side of the river, is Vaux’s tomb,
around which is famous ground for
hog hunting. It is in consequence
much resorted to by lovers of that
sport. Mr. Vaux, according to Hamil-
ton, was drowned in the Tapti, toge-
ther with his wife, by a pinnace over-
setting in which he was sailing for
pleasure. This took place in 1697. He
was for a short time Governor of Bom-
bay, and President of Surat in succes-
sion to Sir John Child, who died at
Bombay in 1690. Not far from the
tomb is the Bay of Sivdlya (Swally),
where, too, there used to be a village in
the palmy days of the Surat Presidency.
The Tapti at Surat is said to be ford-
able at low water, while at high tides
it can float vessels of 50 tons burthen.
From the river side to the city gates"
is a distance of 43 m, through gardens
and suburbs. A brick wall, called the
'A'lampandh, or protection of the world,
encircles the suburbs in the form of a
bow,f the string of which, depressed in
the middle, is the river. The city ex-
tends about 6 m. in circumference. The
wall is flanked by bastions of small
size at irregular distances. Its height
varies from 13 to 18 ft. It was not
originally strong, and, having never
been repaired from the time it was
built in 1530 by Rümi Khán, it is now
in a deplorable condition. It has 12
gates with heavy wooden leaves turning
on tenons. There is also an inner wall
called the Shahrpandh, or City rampart,
with the like number of gates. It ex-
tends about 3 m. in an irregular oval
form. Its date and structure are the
same as the outer wall; but its condition
is even worse, for in many places it is
level with the ground. Near the centre
of a line drawn from the point where
one extremity of the outer wall touches
the river to the other extremity of the
wall, stands the castle, which makes
such a figure in the early annals of the
* Heber, vol ii., p. 122.
t Autobiography of Lutfullah, p, 191.
English factory. It has round bastions,
a glacis, and a covered way. Accord-
ing to Mill," it was erected in 1543.
Here, in Bishop Heber's time, floated,
together with the Union Jack of Eng-
land and the plain red flag, the ancient
ensign of the Emperors of Delhi. Of
the many gardens between the outer
and inner walls of Surat, the Mahmudi
Bagh was the finest. Forbest gives a
glowing description of its walks and
parterres, and of the pavilion in which
the ladies of the Nawab used to reside.
Ruin has descended on this as on all
other parts of Surat. In its flourishing
time, in 1796, the city is said to have
contained 800,000 inhabitants, and
though Mill regards this as an exag-
eration, he is inclined to consider
Surat as, at that time, the largest city
in India. In 1838 the population was
133,544, and in 1847 was reckoned b
Briggs at 95,000. Surat has suffere
much at various times from the de-
structive floods of the Tapti. When
heavy rains fall in Khandesh, the river
swells, to a formidable height, and in
1727, according to Stavorinus, the flood
was so great that the people sailed in
boats over the city '' as far as the
Darbár. In July, 1776, the river rose
10 ft. in a quarter of an hour, and was
in a short time on a level with the city
walls. About the same time of the
year, in 1781, § a dreadful storm raised
the river to a prodigious height. Forbes,
who was then at Surat, gives an awful,
but perhaps exaggerated, account of its
ravages. According to him, 3,000 per-
sons who had taken refuge in an island
of the Tapti from the Marathas, were
all swept away '. the stream, and every
soul perished. Extensive parts of the
walls and fortifications, numbers of
houses and edifices fell, and in the adja-
cent districts, whole villages, with all
their inhabitants, were swept away.
Every ship at the bar and all the boats
and other vessels in the river foundered
or were driven ashore, with terrible
* Wol. vi.
, p.289.
+ 8'''Memoirs, vol. i., p. 152.
# Cities of Gujarāshtra, p. 138.
Oriental Memoirs, vol. ii., p. 156, compared
with pp. 337 and 367. Briggs, p. 85, £
Forbes’ account apply to the storm of 1776.


Bombay.
443
RoUTE 21.—BoMBAY To MoUNT ABU-sURAT.
loss of life. The Revenge, the finest
cruiser on the Bombay station, went
down with all on board, and the Terri-
ble, Dolphin, and other armed vessels,
were lost in the same way. In 1810,
1822, and again in 1827, there were
similar visitations. In the last named
year the inundation was preceded by a
calamitous fire. This occurred on Mon-
day, the 24th of April, and destroyed
6,000 houses, 500 human beings, and
so much property as to reduce 70,000
of the inhabitants to beggary. The
danger of inundations has been much
diminished by a canal made by the
late Capt. Watkins Wenn from Barachi
to the creek of Udanáí.
Principal Sights.—The first thing to
be visited at Surat are the European
burial grounds. The English Cemetery
is situated about a furlong from the
Biriau Gate, which is to the N. of the
city and on the direct road to Bharúch.
A mean wooden doorway opens upon a
large expanse of broken ground covered
£ weeds, trees, and mouldered tombs.
On the right is the superb mausoleum
of Sir George 0xindon," or 0xinden.
The tomb of his brother Christopher is
close by, and a small tablet of white
marble in a niche on the W. wall bears
the following inscription, according to
Briggs f:—
* Hic situs est Christopherus Oximden, obitatis
Exemplum vita sed vitae, mortae caducae,
Intrat et exit hic, inseptis ammamq finuit
Ille dies tantum numerare logista Valebat,
Non amnos, nam raptim exegit mors rationem.
Quaeritis, Ö Dominf: quid damniyel guid habetis
Ducri vos Serruntorium mos, perdidit ille
Witam sed * contra scribat MORS MIHI
LUCRU
“Exiite vita Aprill 18, 1759.”
The mausoleum is a square pile 40 ft.
high; and 25 ft. in diameter, with
columns at each angle. At the E. side
are stairs which lead to a terrace at the
top. “Over this springs a skeleton
dome of masonry, $ in the form of a
Maltese cross rendered convex,” which
is intended to commemorate Sir George,
and a lower dome is to the memory of his
* The former mode of spelling the name is
that used by Sir George himself, as may be
seen in the Records at the India House.
t The copyist has evidently made some
gross errors. One or two of these have been
corrected in the above transcript.
# Calcutta Review, vol. ix., p. 125.
* Cities of Gujarashtra, p. 36.
brother. There is here a tablet formed
of two separate pieces of marble, on
which is the following inscription to
Sir George:–
“Interrogas, Amice Lector ||
Quid sibi vult grandior haec structura? Respon-
sum habe.
In hoc gloriatur satis quod alteram illam gran-
dem continet.
Superbit insuper quod una cum illa tegit gene-
rosós duos fratres
Praterrimos
Quiet in Vivis fuerint et etiam in mortuis sunt
quam conjunctissimi.
Alteram velis intelligas ? lege alibi.
Intelligas velis alteram P lege hic.
Dominus Georgius Oxinden Cantianus
Filius natu tertius D, Jacobi Oxinden Equitis,
Ipse equestri dignitate ornatus,
Anglorum in India, Pérsia, Arabia, Praeses,
Insulae Bombayensis Gubernator
Ab Illustri Societate pro gua presidebat et
gubernaba
Ob maxima sua et repetita in eam merita
Singulari favori, et gratitudinis specimine
honestatus.
# spie're rerum usu,
Fortitudine, prudentia, probitate
Peremementissimus ..
Cum plurimorum luctu, obyt July 14°...
Cum Plurimor'. #" est July 15°
Anno AEtatis 50,
Haeus Lector!
Ex magno hoc viro, vel mortuo aliquid proficias.”
It has been well remarked that this
pompous epitaph and grand mausoleum
contrast strangely with the paltry
allowances of the Governor whose
memory they record. His pay was
£300 a-year, with £200 as a compensa-
tion for foregoing the privilege of
private trade. A less ostentatious tomb
marks the resting-place of President
Breton. It bears a Latin inscription,
which may be thus translated:-
“Stranger, pause (if at least, you are a
Christian), pause, I say, for a little
while, nor will it be in vain. For you
will know that here lieth Francis
Breton, Chief for the Honorable Com-
pany of English merchants trading to
the East, who, when for five years he
had, with the greatest diligence and
strictest integrity, completed his duties,
completed his life. He went unmarried
to the heavenly nuptials, in the year of
Christ, 1649, on the 21st of July. It
is enough, stranger, for you to know
this, expend but one tear, and depart.”
Other inscriptions on various tombs are
as follows:–Stephen Colt," late Presi-
* According to Briggs, p. 90, President Colt
added Latt to his name; but this does not
appear from his signatures. Perhaps late has
been mistaken for an additional name,


Bombay.
445
nourr. 21.-—nonn.u' TO iiooxr .iisU~—_suii.\'r.
The place is more curious than inviting.
The ground it covers is extensive, and
is partly occupied by sheds, full of
crippled cattle, horses, dogs, and oxen,
in various stages of disease, decrepitude,
and filth. Among them are cages
with various disgusting occupants, and
such as can hobblc may promenade
about a spacious yard. The squalor
and odour are better imagined than
described. A ladder conducts to a hu e
loft, where all the bad grain of the
bazar is deposited. Here millions of
weevils swarm, and this, according to a
writer in the Bombay Courier, of the
11th of June, 1836,‘ has iven rise
to the tale of the bugs, eas, etc.,
which it is thought had an hospital
here. The same writer maintains that
“the whole affair a pears very like a
'ob. The place is ed with healthy
ullocks, cows, calves, cocks and hens,
and milch goats, which, no doubt, bring
in a snug revenue to the managers.”
The Agaris, or Fire Temples, and
Dukhma, or Burial Tower of the Pfirsis,
who are numerous at Surat, may also
be visited. Of the former there are
two; one built by Dadéibhai Nasar-
wiinji and Hormuzdji Bahmanji, the
other by Pestan"i Kalabhfii Wakil, both
in 1824. The ukhma is about a mile
from the E. gate of the city. Au
amusing description of a visit to it will
be found in the Autobiography of Lut-
fullal1,1' and the following account is
also by the same hand.
“ When death completes its opera-
tion, the body is wound up in the oldest
clothes and taken to an extraordinary
cemetery, hereafter described, on an
iron platform made for the purpose,
carried on the shoulders of 4 Mubids,
or Priests. They tie pieces of white
rags on their. feet, and with a long slip
of rag fastening each other together,
proceed on with great solemnity, with-
out moving their lips, or touched by
anybody. On their arrival at the place,
the 4 priests enter the cemetery with
the corpse, and, laying it in its proper
an enclosure for those sacred so-called Brah-
inani bulls that rove unmolested through
Hindu cities. _ _
* Quoted in Briggs’ Gward_xI1_Ira, 11.113.
1' I’. 193.

place, return to the people of the pro-
cession, waiting at some distance for
them, and then all return home. As
soon as the priests, having laid the
body, turn their back to it, large vul-
tures that alwa s impatiently wait on
the walls, imme iately descend, tear up
the old windings, and devour the flesh,
etc., in a few seconds, and leave the
hard substance for the weather to con-
sume, and the humidity to run into the
ground through the drains. These
animals are said to have been brought
from Persia for the purpose, as the
Indian vultures are not half so stron
as these horrid human-carcase-eaters. t
will not be amiss to give a concise
description of the shape, form, and
structure of their wonderful cemetery
in this place, which is called ‘ Dukhma.’
I had an internal view of it afterwards,
in 1821, 5.1:. It is a multivorous place
built of stone, in the shape of a roof-
less circular tower, with one small door
to the E. The floor is somewhat
convex, and about 60 ft. in diameter at
the ground, shooting out 4 drains at
equal distance from each other, the re-
ceivers of which are subterraneous. The
wall is about 20ft. high, and 30 ft. in
diameter. The inside of this tower is
formed like a well brinked with a sloping
verge, 12 ft. wide, to one half the height
of the circular wall. The verge is
divided into three circles, the 1st 6ft.
broad, beginning from the wall; the
2nd, 4ft.; and the 3rd, 2ft. Each
circle has arches about an inch deep,
wide enough to receive the inmates,
with open drains communicating with
the middle well. The first circle is
for men, the second for women, and the
third for infants of both sexes. When
the arches are filled with bones, the
are thrown down into the middle wcl ,
and when all the well is either filled up
or a dead dog_is thrown into it by
an enem of their faith or chance, a
new Duk ma must he resorted to. In
case of death, when the victim is far
from the Dukhina, the corpse is placed
upon the hi hest mountain in the vici-
nity, expose to the sun.”
Palace of the N12wa'b.—~The palaces of
the Mughul nobles have long since fallen


Bombay. noun: 21-BOMBAY ro
MOUNT ,(nu——nn,
ocn. 447
is thought to be the Barygaza of Ptolemy
and Arrian. Though in the middle of
a most fertile district, the town is ugly
and dilapidated; the houses like those
of Surat, but the streets narrower and
more filthy. It is built partly on a
small hill, which, according to Colonel
M. Williams, is an artificial mound,
and partly on the skirt of the same as
it slopes towards the river, which is here
2 m. wide even at ebb tide," and never
fordable; havin , besides the shallow
water, a deep but intricate channel,
admitting vessels of considerable draught.
The assagc is made in ferry boats, and
trave lers are sometimes delayed an hour
or two waiting for the return of the
boat. The traveller’s bangla is beyond
the town and to the N ., and there is
room for two families only.
Principall Sights.—The fortifications
of Bharuch are strong for a native town.
The circuit of the walls is 2% m. They
are high, perforated for musketry, and
flanked by towers mounted with cannon.
There are two princi al gates and several
smaller ones. Bharuch was takenb Akbar
in 1572, and was overned by a fiwab
in dependency on elhi till 1685, when
the Peshwa became aramount; and in
1772 it was ca ture by the English,
under General eddcrburne, who was
killed in the assault. Its revenues
were at that period divided between
the Niiwab of the place and the Gaik-
wad, and the later ceased to receive
any share in 1775. In June, 1782,
it was ceded to the E. I. Company,
but made over by them to Mahadaji
Sindhia, in July, as a recompense for
his humane treatment of the English
prisoners taken at Wargiinw. It then
remained an appanage of Sindhia till,
on the 29th of August, 1803, it was
finally ca tured by the British under
Col. \Voo ington. The tomb of Gen.
Wedderbume is near the flag-staff tower.
The Silver llfasjid is the burial place of
the Niiw-abs of Bharuch. It stands in
a large area, and has its name from a
sanctuary on the S. enclosed with lattice
work, and covered with thin plates of
silver. Here, under velvet canopies,
are some handsome marble tombs, under
which are deposited the remains of the
N fiwébs of Bharuch. The last, after the
loss of his capital, fled to adistant coun-
try, where he died. A .Pi1ijra'po§, or
asylum for animals, similar to that at
Surat, may also be inspected by those
curious in such matters. On an emin-
ence, a mile from the city, is the mau-
soleum of Bdba Rihdn, near a spacious
tank and shady groves. There are many
Muhammadan tombs at this spot,‘ but
that to Baba Rihan, who came to
Bharuch from Bagdad in A.D. 1078, is
in the Saracenic style, and is a noble
edifice, with several domes and smaller
cupolas richly ornamented, beneath
which are marble tombs. From the
upper terrace there is a fine and exten-
sive view. This is probabl the same
place as that mentioned b utfullah 1-
under the name of Pir hattar. Ac-
cording to that writer there is here a
miraculous reservoir of very cold water
in the middle of a tomb, which is always
full to the brim however much is drawn
from it. It is about 5 ft. long by 2
broad, and 14 inches deep. The Dutch
Burial Ground has some of the oldest
tombs of Europeans to be met with in
India. The following dates are legible :
August the 23rd, 1654; 10th Se tember,
1666; July 3rd, 1667; 9th anuary,
1704; 29th July, 1731; 1st November,
1732; 17th March, 1744; llth July,
1746; 29th May, l76l——1770. The
inscriptions show that the tombs are of
persons belonging to the Dutch Factory.
The two principal sights, however, of
the place are the Om-nelian Jlines and
the Kabir Bar, or great Banyan Tree,
in an island of the Narmada, opposite
the village of Sukal Tirth, 12 m. above
Bharuch. The tree is said to have its
p name from Kabira, a celebrated teacher
of whom a ridiculous legend is narrated
respecting the tree. This wonderful tree
supposed to be the largest in India, could
at one time, it is said, shelter 5000
horsemen. A large portion of it was
destroyed some years back in a terrible
storm, but it still extends some 1800 ft.
in circumference. The inside or original
trunk of the tree is gone, having rotted

* Heber, vol. ii., p.120.
* Oriental Memoirs, vol. i., p. 486.
1‘ P. 197.


448 ROUTE 21–BOMBAY TO
MoUNT KBU-BHARUCH.
Sect. II.
away, and its place is occupied by
nimb and other trees. A small temple
close by marks the spot where it
grew. The large branches from this
centre have spread in all directions,
throwing down roots to support them-
selves. Some of the branches are so
near the ground that there is great
difficulty in getting under them. This
umbrageous cover is full of enormous
bats and flying foxes, as well as snakes.
The leaves of the Bar tree are elliptical,
smooth, crisp, and glossy. The fruit has
no stem, but adheres to the twigs. It is
the size of a hazel nut, of a bright red,
and is edible. Its appearance will
remind the visitor of the lines in
Milton:—
“So counsel'd he, and both together went
Into the thickest, wood; there soon they chose
The fig-tree, not that kind for fruit renown'd,
But such as at this day, to Indians known
In Malabar or Deccan, £ her arms
Branching so broad and long, that in the ground
The bended twigs take root, and daughters grow
About the mother tree, a pillar’d shade
High overarch'd, and echoing walks between;
There oft the Indian herdsman shunning heat
Shelters in cool, and tends his £ herds
At loopholes cut through thickest shade: those
eaVes
They gather'd, broad as Amazonian targe,
And with what skill they had, together sow'd
To gird their waist: vain covering, if to hide
Their guilt and dreaded shame.” -
“Paradise Lost,” book ix., p. 195.
The island and the village of Sukal
Tirth are celebrated places of Hindú
pilgrimage; and Forbesspeaks of 100,000
persons assembling in the vicinity at a
Játra or religious meeting. The scenery
for many miles up the river is very pic-
turesque. An account of it will be
found in the 8th vol. of the Transactions
of the Bombay Geographical Society for
1847–1849, p. 119–144, and 174–177;
also in the same journal for the year
1836–38, p. 174.*
The Carnelian Mines of Ratanpur are
about 17 m. E. of Bharuch.f. For the
first 8 m. the road leads through deep
and dusty ravines, formed by the rush
of water into the Narmada during the
monsoon. After passing the village of
Sukal Tirth, a highly cultivated plain
opens to view, clothed with sugarcane and
* In the same vol. is an account of the great
flood at Surat, in August, 1837, by Lieut. G.
Fulljames.
+ A description of them will be found in an
article by that able officer the late Capt.
Fulljames, in the Transactions of the Bom-
bay Geographical Society, for 1838, p. 74.
other rich crops. The cultivators here
pay 12 rupees per bighd. The Kabir
Bar is seen from the village. The river
is crossed in a flat-bottomed boat, and
the road then leads over a bed of fine
loose sand for 6 m. to the village of
Minadarah, the approach to which is
marked by numerous pieces of agate, of
all colors, strewn in every direction.
Ratanpur, “jewel-town,” is about a
mile from this, and the mines are 3 m.
further, the whole road being strewn
with agates. The mines are on the
slope of a hill, and extend 4 m., and
about 1000 men work at them, each
man collecting 1% mans of good stones
daily. The average depths of the shaft
is 30 ft. The galleries, which run in every
direction, are 3 ft. high and 4 wide,
through a stiff ' in which the stones
are imbedded. The stones are tried by
chipping them with another stone; the
finer and more compact the stone the
better it will be when burned, and the
blacker it is at first, the redder it will
become. The stones are collected for a
whole £ and turned over every four
or five days. Thelonger they are exposed
to the sun the deeper and brighter is the
color when they are polished. In May
the stones are burned in earthen pots
laced mouth downwards. A hole is
roken in the bottom, and a piece of
broken pot placed over it. Sheep's dun
is then piled on the pots, and kindle
at sunset so as to burn till sunrise. No
fuel but sheep's dung will answer. In
the morning the pots are examined, and
if any white spots appear they are sub-
jected to fire a second time. Immense
quantities of beads are made of these
stones for exportation to the African and
Arabian coasts, where they are bartered
for ivory, gold dust, etc. The beads
are formed with a hammer on the point
of a sharp pin driven into the ground.
They are then rounded by rolling on a
slab of hard sandstone, after which they
are polished and drilled.
Bharuch is one of the most famous
cotton districts in India. In 1852 the
aggregate area under cotton cultivation
in the British Collectorates was 978,988
bighds = 460,000 statute acres; of these
478,791 belonged to Ahmadābād,417,590


Bomoay
419
ROUTE 2l.—Il0MBAY T0 MOUNT ¢iBI.'—BAROTlA.
to Bharuch, 72,706 to Surat, and 9,901
to Kheda. According to Mr. Mackay,
the assessment on the cotton lands is too
high, being 2 rupees 2 anas per bighd,
or Bs. 6d. yearly per acre,‘ while the
average produce 0 a bighd is but 50 lb.
of clean cotton yearly, which, at 2§d.
per lb., would give 9:. 10§d. as the
average return.1- Food in this district
is wonderfully cheap. The pay of a
farm laborer, according to Colonel M.
Williams, is but 3.9. a month, with 1.9. 4d.
monthly for his food. The farming
im leinents of a cultivator cost £7 18.9.
inc uding a pair of bullocks. '
The halting places between Bharuch
and Baroda are all large villages. The
country is well wooded and watered, and
highly cultivated, enclosed with hedge-
rows on both sides the road for a con-
siderable distance.
(0) Baroda ( roperly Varodarah,I
perhaps from S r. var, “best," ad,
“water-”), in N. lat. 22° 16', long.
73" 14-’, is the capital of the Gaikwad's
dominions and contains about 140,000
inhabitants. To reach the traveller’s
bangla from Surat the town must be
passed and the little river Vishwa‘mitra§
crossed, and at the distance of about
1% m. is the Cantonment. The first
house in the Cantonment on the right
of the Surat road is the traveller’s
hangla.
Baroda City is fortified with a wall
of no great strength, protected by towers
at irregular distances, and several double
gates. The streets are tolerabl wide,
with very high houses, chiefly o wood,
with tiled sloping roofs, and rows along
the streets," something like those of

Chester. Two s acious streets intersect
the town and ivide it into 4 equal
parts, meeting in the centre at a market
place, containing a square pavilion,
with 3 bold arches on each side, and
a flat roof adorned with seats and
fountains.‘ The G1i1'kurdd's Palace is
a large shabby building close to the
street, with wooden galleries projecting
one over the other. There is little to
be seen in the city itself, except some
pretty pagodas; but Forbes speaks of
“super mausoleums" in the environs
which have never been described. On
the \V. of the town are the Gaikwa<_l’s
elephant stables, which are worth a
visit. The Moti Bfigl_i, His Highness's
country seat, is on the left coining from
Surat. European ladies and entlcmen
are permitted to see it when I is High-
ness is not there. It is a pretty place,
and there are some curious specimens
of machinery, such as clocks with moying
figures, tight rope dancers, singing birds,
etc. But the sportsman must not for-
et to apply for admission to shoot at
chka, the Gaikwarfs hunting preserve,
10 in. N.E. of the cit . It abounds with
black buck and wil hog. The Resi-
dent has here abangla close to the river.
The Cantonment reminded Heber of
a village near London, “having a
number of small brick houses with trellis,
wooden verandahs, sloping tiled roofs,
and u pcr stories, each surrounded by
a ar en, with a high green hedge of
mi kbush." The oflicers’ lines are close
to those of the men, and in front of
the latter is the Parade Ground, on part
of which, since the mutiny, temporary
barracks for European troops have been
erected. The Church is a small but
convenient and elegant Gothic build-
ing, accommodating about 400 persons
well, and was raised for 12,000 rupees.1~
It was consecrated by Heber, March 20,
1824. The Residency is on the left of
the road, 200 yds. beyond the travellers’
bnnglfi. The Vishwlimitra river, on
the N. bank of which the Cantonment
is situated, rises in the remarkable, and
from the camp apparently isolated, hill
of Pdwdgayh or Pawangarh, “ Fort of
* Western India, 109. f Ibid, p.115.
$Tod, Wealern ndia. . 245, makes the
ancient name of Baroda (-' andamzvatf, “City
of sandal wood,” or from its founder Chandra,
a prince of the Dor R ms. Its name was
afterwards changed to iravati, “Abode of
warriors," and then to Barpalra, “Leaf of the
_Ficns Indica." from some fancied resemblance
in the shape of the town. All this, however,
is mere speculation.
6 This is the correct name. and it is properly
that of a famous _IIindu saint, who, being
oriirinally 0|’ the military tribe, raised himself
pihis aiisterities to the rank of a brahman. ‘
e vulgar corruptions of this name, Wis-
Wpminti-e of the Bombay Selected Reports, and
Bliwarnintre of Thornton and others. snrin
from a blunder of Forbes in his Orienla
Memoirs.
ll Heber, vol. ll-, p. 97.
* Oriental Memoirs, vol. 11.. D. 28?.-
f Heber, vol. ii., p. £5.


450 ROUTE 21-BOMBAY TO
MoUNT ABU—DUBHAf.
Sect. II.
the winds.” This hill is 28 m. due E.
of Baroda, rising abruptly from the
plain to the height of 2,400 ft., and
2,800 ft. above the sea. To the E. lie the
vast Baria jungles through which Tantia
Topee's horsemen have lately made
their way, and Pawangarh seems to
form the boundary between them and
the clear open country W. to Tankaria
Bandar. The road to the Cantonment
from the city of Baroda is very good, has
been lately widened, and is kept in good
order. #. land being low the whole
way from the city, and liable to inun-
dations from the river, it has been neces-
sary to carry the road on an embank-
ment, which is in some places 8 ft. above
the land on either side. The river, and
a large ndlá leading into it, are crossed
by strong substantial bridges of stone
and brick. That over the nald is a very
beautiful bridge of one arch, and a large
circular opening on either side. It was
erected in 1826 by the late General
Waddington, C.B., at the expense of
Sahiji Rao Gáikwád. It is faced with
a handsome yellow sandstone brought
from a range of hills 30 m. to the S.E.
The interior is of brick. Not many
yards further up the ndld is another
stone and brick bridge, similar to the
old native bridge which crosses the river
300 yds, nearer the city, having two
ranges of arches one over the other,
which Forbes" mentions as the only
bridge he ever saw in India. The main
road from the city to the Cantonment
passes through the officers' lines, while
another to the left branches off to the
Residency. There is a drive of 3 m.
round the Cantonment.
The Baords, in Gujarāti Wāvadis
(Bowrees), Large Wells near Baroda,
are the principal sights of the place.
The following account of these struc-
tures is given by Mr. A. Kinloch
Forbes, in his interesting work on
Gujarat, the Rds. Mald f :-“Of the
wells of this period there remain in
different parts of the country examples
of two kinds. Some are large circular
wells of ordinary construction, but con-
taining galleried apartments; others are
* Oriental Memoirs, vol. ii. p. 287.
+ Vol. i. p. 256." p
more properly described as “wdvs” or
“bawlis.” The way is a large edifice,
of a picturesque and stately, as well as
peculiar, character. Above the level of
the ground a row of 4 or 5 open
pavilions, at regular distances from each
other, usually square on the interior,
but sometimes, in the larger examples,
passing into the octagonal form within,
is alone visible; the roofs are supported
on columns, and are, in the structures
of the Hindú times, pyramidal in form.
The entrance to the wav is by one of
the end pavilions; thence a flight of
steps descends to a landing immediately
under the second dome, which is now
seen to be supported by two rows of
columns, one over the other. A second
flight of steps continues the descent to a
similar landing under the third pavilion,
where the screen is found to be three
columns in height. In this manner the
descent continues stage by stage, the
number of the columns increasing at
each pavilion, until the level of the
water is at last reached. The last
flight of steps frequently conducts to
an octagonal structure, in this £
necessarily several stories high, and
containing a gallery at each story. It
is covered by the terminating dome, and
is the most adorned portion of the wav.
The structure, which is sometimes 80
yds, in length, invariably terminates in
a circular well.”
The largest of these wells near Baroda
is a magnificent work, and from having
cost 9 lakhs of rupiyahs is called Nau-
ldkhi. There is the following inscrip-
tion over the portal:—
“In the name of the most merciful God.
There is no God but God,
And Muhammad is the Prophet of God.
J'afar Khán, Viceroy of Gujarát, was great,
successful, and mighty in battle. , Baroda was
under his rule; he was the most noble of nobles,
and honored with the most honorable titles by
the Sháh. By his favor Sulaimán, his chief
minister, was appointed Governor of Baroda;
where, by the biéssing of God, he amassed great
riches, and ''' them in works of charity
and beneficence. By him this work of admirable
beauty and strength was, by the Divine
Sion,£pleted on the first of the mont
A.H. 807.”
£,
The water of this well is excellent, and
is in much request.
The City of Dubhdi (Dubhoy, the
Dubboi and Dhubbooee of Thornton),
15 m. S.E. of Baroda, is well worth a


Ilombay.
451
more 21—noiimY T0 MOUNT A'BU—ciLiiri>.i1»iin.
visit. It is a place of which Forbes, in
his Oriental Memoirs, makes so much
mention, and deserves the praise he
bestows upon it. It contains 20,000 (P)
houses,* and its walls extend more than
2 m. in circumference. Its shape is
quadrangular, but two of the sides some-
what exceed the others, being about 1000
ds. in length, the others about 800.
uch parts of the fortifications as re-
main entire are of large hewn stones,
and the interior colonnade is a beautiful
work.1- The walls rise to nearly 50 ft.,
and in the centre of each side is a large
gateway, the platform above which is
supported by rows of brackets projected
beyond each other until they nearly meet
at the to , and form a substitute for an
arch. n the thickness of ‘the wall
these bracketed doorways are six times
repeated, and upon them is laid a flat
stone roof. At each corner of the for-
tress is a tower,1 square in general plan,
but broken into the peculiar form in
which the Hindu architect delights.
Four rectangular bastions intervene be-
tween each corner tower and the central
gateway. The walls are throughout
ornamented with sculptured horizontal
bands re eated at intervals, and are
complete by semi-circular battlemcnts
screening the way along which the
warders passed. The gateways are
covered with a profusion of sculptured
ornaments which the photographer alone
could represent. But the most magni-
ficent part of the whole work is the
gate on the E. side, which, from its
singular beaut , is called “The Gate of
Diamonds.” t is 320 ft. long and pro-
portionably high, and the upper part of
the building is supported by rows of
stone elephants. The whole is covered
with a profusion of sculptured figures
of animals of all sorts, the lion, camel,
etc. Combats of warriors on horseback,
on foot, and in chariots, are also repre-
sented with much skill and s irit. Ac-
cording to native tradition, t ese works
cost 10 millions sterling. \Vithin the
fort is a magnificent tank of strong

masonry, with a grand flight of steps all
round escending to the water's edge.
On the stone platform at top many
temples are erected to Hindu divinities.
Pawangayh and C’ha'mpn’m'r."—The
ascent of the hill is about 4} in.
About 2 m. from the base, on the E.
face of the hill, is a fort, in which
the I_(il'adar resides, with 100 men of
an irregular corps. It is about 40 ds.
in circumference, its walls are 1 ft.
high, without bastions, but mounting 2
small guns. The path up is extremely
rugged. About 2 m. further up is a.
gate on the E. side, leading into the
main fort, on a table land about an acre
in extent. On the E. side the wall is
about 16 ft. high. On the W. and N.
there is no wall, as the rocks are pre-
cipitous; on the S. the hill rises up into
a peak, abruptly, about a quarter of a
mile high, on which are Hindu and
Muhamniadan temples. There are 10
guns of diifcrcnt sizes, two tanks filled
with rain water at all seasons, and
a third tank in which water is more
scarce. The fort is in repair, and is a
place of great strength, requiring artil-
lery to take it. There are heights to
the N ., on which guns might be placed
so as to reduce the fortress.
At the foot of the hill is the ancient
and now deserted city of Charnpiinir.
It is surrounded by walls 15 ft. high
and 1% in. in circumference. This ex-
tent is covered with the remains of
tombs, mosques, and edifices of all de-
scriptions, overgrown with jungle, the
haunt of wild beasts. Herc the sports-
man will find ample employment tor his
rifle. The late Capt. George Fulljaines
and Capt. Battye, some years hack,
among many large tigers, killed here one
of extraordinary dimensions, measuring
15 ft. from the nose to the tip of the
tail. For the general traveller there is
the attraction of many curious and
beautiful ruins. On the E. side of the
hilltop are some ancient Jain tcm les
of admirable execution. On the .,
' Bombay Selected Reports, No. xxiii..p.97.
1‘ The author of the Oriental Memoirs coin-
ares this with the iporticoes in front of the
arracks at Pom ei .
I Rd: Mlild, V0 .1.. 1!. 9.51.
* These "places are described in the Trans-
actions of the Literary Society of Bombay, vol.
i., n. 140; and in No. xxiii. or the Bombay
Selected Reports, pp. 83 and 37. Forbes
(Oriental Memoirs. vol. 1. 520) considers
Pawangarh the Tiagum oi’ tolemy.


Bombay. noun: 2l..—B0l\1BAY ro MOUNT .ii:o—inrki1n.iYAr.
453
built for a town of the
gentiles.” The present name signifies
“ City of the Pillar," Khambh meaning
“ pillar," from a copper pillar set up by
a Raja before the llth century, A.D.,
on which was an inscription dedicating
the city, with 84 villages, to Devi.*
Prhieipal Sighls.—The 0ily.—The
city of Khambayat, built on uneven
ground, which, on the whole, may be
termed an eminence, is now only 3 m.
in circumference, but ruins extend a
long way in every direction. The wall
is of brick, and appears to have been
perforated for musketry,1- and flanked
y 52 towers, without fosse or espla-
nade.
lous, and fairly
There are l0 gates, with ard-
rooms. Making a circuit to the ., the
ates are as follows :-—the Phurza, or
ustom’s Gate, with 26 guards; the
Makkah Gate, 25 men; the Bhoz’ kl
ba'_ri Gate, 30 men; the Media ki bu'_ri,
25 men; the G0wa'z_ia' Gate, 50 men;
the Bohord ba'_ri Gate, 15 men; the Lcil
Gate, 100 men; the Fatlz Gate, 50
men ; the Mullammadi Gate, 15 men;
and the Ohdlc Gate, 20 men. The walls
have never been properly repaired since
the time of Akbar. The population is
reckoned at 37,000, inhabiting no less
than 17,000 houses, and about 10,000
other houses are deserted and half
mined. The establishment of the Eng-
lish Factory here was almost contempo-
raneous with that of Surat.
The .Tum'aah Jfasjid is situated about
a quarter of a mile from the English
Factory. According to Tod and Forbes,
it is built on the site of a Hindu or
Jain temple, and the idols there wor-
shipped were interred by the conquering
Muslims under the pavement, once com-
posed of white marble slabs, removed,
erhaps by the Mariithas, and replaced
y stone. It forms a square of 210 ft.,
and a succession of domes of different
Bizes, supported by pillars, compose a
d colonnade round the interior area.-
n the S. entrance is a handsome mina-
ret, the com anion to which having
been destro e by lightning, was never
restored. riggs, who in general is not

an impassioned observer, remarks that
it is “impossible not to be lost in rap-
ture at the elegant frieze. the elaborate
ceiling, the costly accuracy in great pro-
ortions and minute detail in the trel-
ised windows and fretted domes." It
is to be re retted that this grand struc-
ture shoul have fallen to ruin. In the
centre of the court-yard is a tomb with
a mean cupola, under which one Mali-
ku't-tig/dr, a rich merchant, who is said
to have been the founder of the mosque,
is interred. Over the centre arch is a
marble slab, with the name and date in
Persian. On the broken shaft of a
column is rudely sculptured what the
natives call “the curse.” It is sup-
sosed to imply a malediction on any
estroyer of the building. Not far from
this mos ue is the Darbdr, or N:2wa'b’s
Palace. (ht is a poor and patched build-
ing, its archway daubcd with yellow
wash and rotcsque figures. It is the
only place, owever, besides the English
Factory, and the broad street of the
bazar, where it is possible to step with-
out coming in contact with huge stones
and rubbish that are strewn all over
the town.
Dil-kuslid, “heart-expanding,” the
Ntiw'iib’s garden, is about 2m. from
the Factory There are a large tank and
rather pretty summer-house. The place
was laid out by Col. Charles Reynolds,
Surveyor-General of W. India,* and
was subsequently purchased by the Nu-
wab. The English Cemetery is close to
the seaward gate of the city. It is a
small plot of ground surrounded by a
low brick wall with an iron railing on
the top. There are about 25 monu-
ments, and among them one to Captain
Francis Outram, of the Bombay En-
ineers, brother of Sir J. Outram, who
ied at the Factory. One also to
Byrom Rowle, Collector of Khcda, de-
serves notice on account of the great
ability and promise of him over whom
it is reared. The Subtermmeous Jain
Temples must on no account be un-
visited. One of them is in the quarter
of the city called the Pa'r.sz'-wa'¢_ia', a
rather filthy locality. In outward ap-
* Western India. p.248. _ _
ttlompare Briggs’ Cities of Gwardqhlra,
D. 169, with Oriental Memoirs, vol. i, p. 818.
* According to Briggs, who censures Forbes
for inaccurate statements regarding it.


454
Sect. II.
BOUTE 2l——BOMBAY TO MOUNT AIBU-'KHEDA.
pearance there is nothing to distinguish
the shrine from the a jacent houses.
The interior of the chapel is narrow.
The altar stands towards the E., and
near it is a large and magnificent image
of Parshwanath in white marble, sup-
ported on either side by smaller and
similar figures, while a host of miniature
facsimiles occupy the whole length of
the room, which are sold to votaries.
The eyes of the images are of crystal,
and several are ornamented with ear-
rings of emeralds and rubies. A side
door leads, b a narrow flight of steps,
into the un erground temple, resorted
to on account of the persecutions of
the Muhammadans, and resembling the
similar places of worship used by the
primitive Christians under like circum-
stances. There are several white marble
figures, but nothing very striking.
The Jain temple in the Hindil-wa'z_1a' IS
much more worth seeing. The figure
of Parshwanath is in execution and
finish far superior to that in the Parsi-
wada. A fanciful and not inelegant
canopy affords a liberal supply of light,
and the wooden pi1lars- are curiously
wrought. The cla -wall in front of the
altar is covered wit figures of warriors,
dancing girls, etc. Besides these temples
there are innumerable remains worth
examining, and the antiquarian and
linguist might spend a life in decypher-
ing the inscriptions of the place. Afew
miles from Khambayat is a celebrated
well, built in A.I). 1482. It is called the
well of Vadava, and is well worth a visit.
Khambayat is remarkable for its lapi-
daries, and a specimen of agate, jasper,
onyx, cat's eye, or carnelian, should be
purchased as a memento.
The road from Khambayat to Kheda
commences with dee sand. At Sqfitra
reside a number of ncing irls called
Pdthar. They are also foun at Kalol,
Chakalasi, and Kheda.
(e) Kheda (Kaira).-—A magnificent
avenue of trees leads into Kheda, once
the station of a dragoon regiment, two
infantry regiments, and some artillery,
but now deserted by all but the civil
functionaries. When Heber visited it
in 1825, it was a large, opulous, and,
in some respects, flouris ing canton-

ment, though even then noted for its
unhealthiness. The Bishop writes of it,
“Altogether I have seen no Indian
station (Mfrath excepted) from which I
have derived so much comfort and plea-
sure as Kheda.” He adds, however,
“The worst is its extreme unhealthi-
ness,” and says of the regimental school,
“There are, indeed, few children, the
greater number having been carried ofi‘
by a grievous sickness which prevailed
amongst them last year.” Many of the
Bishop’s servants were attacked, and he
attributed their illness to the brackish-
ness of the wells and the quantit of
saltpetre in the soil. The churc , a
large and solid but clumsy building, was
consecrated by Heber on the 27th of
March, 1825. The deserted barracks
and bangles give the place amelancholy
air.
The City of Kheda is distant from the
Cantonment 1% m., and is reached by
crossing a large wooden bridge over the
Seri river. At the confluence of this
river with the Watrak is the city, con-
taining 4,7 00 houses, with a population
of 12,000. It is surrounded by a brick‘
wall, with flanking towers, which, in
Forbes’ time, mounted 47 guns. The
Fort was built by Muhammad 1(_hfi.n
Babi, of the family of Radhanpnr, in
A.D. 1736. He resigned it to Igian
Daurfin Qan Babi, in whose family it
remained 27 years, and was exchanged
by them for Balasinar with Damaji
Gaikwad, and in 1804 passed to the
Company. It is 7,425 ft. in circuit, and
has 5 gates. That on the S., facing the
Go1lector’s kacheri, is called Pm-a‘ ; next
which is the La’! leading to camp; then
the Bdlpizr, the Alamaddbdd, and the
Ba'_n', the last being, as its name im-
plies, a wicket. Tradition alleges that
a very ancient city was here over-
whelmed by the Wsmk river, from the
bed of Wh1Cl1 enormous bricks are still
dug up. The ruins of buildings are seen
in the channel of the river, and from
one of them some curious copper-plates,
decyphered by the late J as. Prinsep,
were obtained. Heber records his visit
to the city as follows :—
* Heber makes a mistake here in saying that
the wall ls of stone. No stone is procurablo
within many miles.


Bombay.
MOUNT .isc—Ai_1imn.-1ia.ii>. 455
nown 2l—BOMBAY ro
“ The streets within, though narrow,
are clean, and the houses solid and
lofty, with sloping tiled roofs, and a
good deal of carving exhibited on the
woodwork and verandahs. Near the
centre of the town are a large Jain
temple and school; the former consist-
ing of many small apartments up and
down stairs, and even under ground,
with a good deal of gaudy ornament,
and some very beautiful carving in a dark
wood, like oak. In one of the upper
rooms is a piece of mechanism, some-
thing like those moving clock-work
groups of kings, armies, gods and god-
esses, which are occasionall carried
about our own country by It 'ans and
Frenchmen, in which sundry divinities
dance and salam with a sort of musical
accompanimentn These figures are
made chiefly of the same black wood
which I have described. \Vhat they
last showed us was a cellar below
ground, approached by a very narrow
passage, and containing, on .an altar of
the usual construction, the four statues
of sitting men, which are the most
frequent and peculiar objects of Jain
idolat . They are of white marble,
but ha (as seems to have been the case
with many of the images of ancient
Greece) their eyes of silver, which
gleamed in a very dismal and ghostly
mannerin the light of a solitary lamp
which was burning before them, aided
by a yet dimmer ray which penetrated
through two narrow apertures, like
flues, in the vaulting. We were very
civilly conducted over the whole build-
ing by one of the junior priests, the
senior pandit of the place remaining as
if absorbed in heavenly things, im-
movable and silent, during the whole of
our stay. While I was in the temple, a
good many worshippers entered, chiefly
women, each of whom, first touching
one of the bells which hung from the
roof, bent to the ground before one or
other of the idols, depositing, in some
instances, flowers, or sugar-candy before
it. There seemed no reluctance to
admit me and Mr. Williams, the (judge
and magistrate, who accompanie me,
art of the building; but the
to any _
rove back, without any cere-
priests
mony, such of our attendants as wished
to follow us. Near this temple is the
’Adu'lat, a handsome building, with
pillars in the Grecian style, having its
attic story raised high above the town,
and containing very convenient apart-
ments for the judge and his family.
Separated by a narrow street is the
prison, a large and strong building,
which was, nevertheless, nearly forced
eight or ten years ago, by a mob of
Kolis, who had determined to release
one of their associates who was in con-
finement. Mr. Ii-onside, the senior
judge, nearly lost his life on that
occasion.”
The road from Kheda to Ahmadabfid
is dee and sandy. Along the whole
route rom Khambayat to A’bu, there is
more or less risk of being robbed, as
the Kolis are the most expert thieves
and robbers imaginable, and the in-
cautious traveller may be ure he will
suffer. -
( f) Alimaddbdd.-——The ruins of this,
once the most splendid city in \V. India,
extend for miles to the S. and E., and
cannot fail to impress the traveller with
a strong feeling of its former magnifi-
cence. On the left of the road to the
city, and near the village of ’Isap(ir, is
a once elegant mosque, in_ ruins. The
fcstooned ornaments, the symmetrical
oolonnades and exquisite proportions of
the dome and its supports, testify to the
taste of the architect. The name of the
building is variously given as Ru'm' ki
Jlfasfid, “ Queen's Mosque,” and Shdlti
Mas/‘id, “ Shah’s Mosque.” The
traveller will enter the city by the
Jamélpfir Gate, and find the bangla,
his resting--place, in the quarter called
Mirzapura.
_Histor_1/.—AZlmada'l>a'd, according to
Firishtah, was founded in 1412 run. by
Ahmad Shah. This Sultan, “ who had
always rofessed himself extremely par-
tial to t e air and situation of the town
of Kshawal, situated on the banks of
the Sabarmati," inaugurated his reign
by laying the foundations of a new city,
bearing his own name, and of this
Ashawal formed a suburb. According
to Tod,* the edifices of both Chan-

‘ Western India. 9.288.


~_
456
dravati and Anhilwada, ancient Hindfi
capitals of Gujarat, su plied materials
for building many of t e structures in
the new city of Ahmad. This became
at once the capital of the rich empire of
the Sultans of Gujarat, and lost" little
of its splendor when, in 1572, it passed
under the power of Akbar, for princes
of the blood royal, and among them
Shah Jahan, were ap ointed viceroys.*
In 1737 Damaji G-ai wad obtained a
footing in Ahmadabad; but it was not
finally occupied b the Marathas till
April, 1855, when amaji and Raghu-
nath Rao took it. The city was first
taken by the English on February the
15th, 1780, when the troops under
General Goddard stormed it, thou h
garrisoned by 6,000 Arab and Sin hi
infantry and 2,000 Maratha horse. The
victors lost 106 men killed and wounded,
of whom 10 European oflicers and 4
gentlemen volunteers were wounded,
three of the 14 dying of their wounds.
Ahmadabad was, however, restored to
the Marathas, and remained in their
hands till 1818, when, on the fall of the
Peshwa, it reverted to the British.
The Oity is surrounded by a wall per-
forated in places for musketry, averag-
ing 15 ft. in height, 5 ft. thick, and
5 m. 6 f. and 28 poles in circumference.
This was built in 1485 by Mahmud
Shah Begarha. There are bastions
almost at every 50 paces, and 18 gates,
on the wooden leaves of which many old
iron shoes are nailed. In 1832 the
mnnici al authorities levied a special
tax, and with the proceeds repaired' the
walls. The population is, according to
Briggs,1- 90,000; accordin toThornton,
130,000.; General God ard’s assault
was made at the Qan J ang Gate in
Mirzapur, and the traveller may find
evidence of it in the Masjid there, close to
the Protestant Cemetery, which is pitted
with shot, and is considered by the
Muhammadans to have lost its sacred
character. The Persian proclamation
by General Goddard, issued to tran-
* Of these Vieero s there were 9 in Akbar’:
re n. l:';7‘.’.-1605, 8 n Jahfinghfs, 1605-1627; 12
in nan J ahan s, 1627-1666; 10 in Au:-angz{b’s,
1666-1707 ; 1 in sr-an ’A'lam’s, 1707-1712.
+ Cities of Guiardqhtra, p. 209.
1 Thornton’! Gazetteer.
nonrs 2l.—BOMBAY T0 MOUNT Anu—.u_1uAn.iBin.

Sect. II.
quillize the citizens, is in the possession
of Seth Phulsha Dipsha, on Hppi‘. ~ ition
to whom, or to whose family, it may be
seen. The city is built in the form of a
semi-circle, the base being to the W.,
along the Sabarmati, which originally
ran lietween the Badr Gate and the
three gates, but was diverted to its pre-
sent course by Mahmud Begarha.
.Pr¢'m:t'pal Sights.—-Many days mivht
be s ent at Ah madabad before the siglhts
of t e place could be exhausted, and a
week at least will be required to view
even the principal ones. The nearest to
the travellers’ ban la is the Protestant
Burial Ground, w ere there are many
marble monuments. The oldest is that
to Captain John Gough, of the Bengal
army, who died of wounds received in
storming the city, under General God-
dard. The monument 'was erected to
his memory by the General. One to
Major Wiflock, of the Bombay Artillery,
drowned in attempting to ford the
Sabarmati, will also be noticed, and
one to Major Thomas D’Arcy Morris,
of the Bombay Infantry, Author of the
Grffin, the Aghori, and other poems,
especially Chansons du (J/tasse, which
have a celebrity all over India. He
was also a renowned stag-hunter, and
famous for his wit and humour.
At no great distance to the S. is the
Roman Catholic burial ground; and
further still the fire Temple and Tower
of Silence of the Parsis. This daycs
tour may be concluded by a visit to t e
Ra'm' kt’ Ma.§7'i/1, amosque in Mirza fira.
on the S. boundary of the trave er‘s
bangla. It stands on a mound several
feet above the road. The area is over-
run with custard apple-trees and weeds,
and the mosque itself is thickly tenanted
by monkeys and parrots. The minarets
are of considerable size, but are broken
oil‘ at the roof. An aged fakir has
charge of the mosque, and some years
ago, Mr. Vibart, of the Civil Service,
shot a tiger in this mosque, which,
strantg-e to say, was crouching within a
few eet of this ve fakir. In the
Roaah, to the N .E. 0 the mosque, are
two elegant but ruined marble monu-
ments to the memory of two princesses,
of whom one was named Rupavati, and


Bombay.
457
acorn 21-nomaar T0 mourn‘ L1w—A1_mAn.iBlio.
from her the mosque was called “ Q,ucen's
Mosque." These tombs are adorned
with sculptured censers and triple chains.
The concave of the dome is gorgeously
fretted, and pillars running uadran-
gularl * form four open co onnades
around the monuments. In the same
vicinity, and a very short distance from
the Jamdlpitr Gate, is the Ra'm' Siprd
lci Rdm’ Siprd was one of the
wives of Sultan Ahmad, the founder of
the city, and her mos ue was built
in 5.11. 835. It is a all, open on
the E. side, from either end of which
springs a slender minaret to the height
of 50 ft. The length of the mosque,
including the towers, is 54 ft.; its
breadth, exclusive of them, 20 ft. Two
rows of double illars running trans-
versely, support t e roof. The mauso-
leum 1S directly in front of the mosque.
Briggs? and others consider this the
handsomest mosque in the city. From
this a gate to the W. leads to the quar-
ter called Assa Bhil, the Yessaval of
Ferishtah, the place with which Ahmad
Shah was so pleased that he founded
the city. Assn Bhil was a Bhil chief-
tain, with whose beautiful daughter
Ahmad fell in love, and after convert-
ing her to Islam, made her his mis-
tress. Beyond this, about 50 yds., is
Dastvir Lltdn’s Jllaqjid, covering an
area of about 76 ft. sq., with an open
quadrangle, the aisles of which are
covered. In the centre are three mar-
ble tombs and a reservoir. To the S.
of the city is the Kdch ki Mas/‘id, or
“glass mosque.” On the road to it,
the traveller will pass many gravestones,
and among them 9 erected side by side,
measuring 18ft. 3in. in length each,
and known by the name of the Nau
Gaz Fir, or “nine yard saints.” They
are much resorted to by the followers
of Islam. Five of them have sunk
u wards of a foot, perhaps from the
e ects of the earthquake in 1818. The
lodge leading to the Kdch ki ll/[asjid is
heavy. Above it are two small cupolas,
each raised on 4- slender pillars. A
third cupola has been destroyed. The
mosque is of brick coated with mortar.
" Omen of Gujm-n"sh-_lra, p. 221.
'l' Ibtd, p. 245.
It is the only building of the kind in
Ahmadabad with domes in the Turkish
style surmounted with brass ornaments,
terminating in the crescent.
The Juma’ah Mas7'id.—The next visit
may be to the Cathedral Mosque, which
is situated in the centre of the town.
The entrance is from the S. of the street
in the vicinity of the Hdnik-Ohauk.
An inscription on a slab over the centre
arch states that this mosque was built
in the year 827 .s..n. by Sultan Nas-
ru'd din Ab\’1'l Fath Mahmfid Shah bin
Muhammad Shah bin Sultan Ahmad.
The material is the trapstone peculiar
to the coast of W. India, and it is now
almost black with age. The edifice is
oblong, with a s acious court-yard, and
colonnades of e cgant columns support-
ing a roof of ‘light domes on the sides,
except to the ., where is the temple.
Here are three open archways, and the
centre one is adorned on either side by
a minaret. These are beautifull orna-
mented with fanciful devices. ithin
are spiral stone staircases, which lead
to an upper gallery and the roof. These
minarets used to rock when a little
force was applied at the arch in the
upper gallery, “though,” as Grindlay
remarks, “there is no perceptible agi-
tation of the art connecting the two on
the roof of t e building.” The earth-
quake of 1818 cut off these minarets at
the sill of the window, whence the
mu'aggin used to call to prayers. In a
demi-sconce on one side of each miner
is a sculptured representation of the
Ficus Indica, nude of its foliage The
extreme length of the mosque from E.
to W., including the court- ard, is
400 ft., and its breadth from . to S.,
260 ft. Over the and entry is a
loft elliptic arch,~an in the floor im-
me iately in front of it is an inverted
plinth, said to be the figure of Persh-
wanath, the Jain Deity. On this every
true believer is expected to stamp before
he advances into the nave. In the
centre of the court-yard is an open
reservoir for ablution. The avement
of “finest marble,” of whic Forbes
speaks,* has been removed. The body
of the mosque is too crowded with
* Oriental Memoirs, vol. ii., p. WI-


~\
458
illars, which are of peculiar design.
he base and capital are octa onal,
each being about a quarter o the
entire column, while the shaft is plain,
exce t in the centre. The sculp-
ture omaments are bells, with triple
chains and festoons. There are abun-
dant traces of this mos ue bein com-
osed of portions of indii e ifices.
lius the portico over the S. entrance
exhibits on its ilasters two Hindu
figures. The E. oorwa leads to the
mausoleum where Ahma Shah, his son
Muhammad Shah I., and grandson,
J alal K_han, surnamed I_(ut,bu'd din, are
buried. The tombs are of pure white
marble, raised 2 ft. above the tesselated
pavement. A talc ball suspended from
the ceiling hangs over the tomb of
Ahmad Shah, while his descendants lie
on either side N. and S., with the coun-
tenance turned to the W. towards Mak-
kah. Fifty paces further to the E. is a
courtyard, where, on a stone foundation
10 ft. high, are the ruins of a magnifi-
cent open mausoleum. An elegant trellis
adorns the windows of the quadran ular
colonnades, which are supported y a
series of pillars rimning transversely.
The tomb in the centre is of white
marble, and is said tobe that of Mugl_1u-
lani’ Bibi, the Queen of Ahmad Shah.
Above the fillets of the basement is a
Persian inscri tion. Another monu-
ment of blac marble, inlayed with
mother-o’-pearl ornaments, is supposed
to be that of a favorite mistress of
Ahmad Shah. There are a multitude
of other tombs. One has a slab with
white characters on a green field. Not
far from this mosque, in the heart of
the city, is the Mint of Jalidngir. It is
in a quadrangular ard, built in the
old st le of Mugl_i fortification, with
an are ed stone entrance, and lodges on
either side for guards. On the right is
a large Hindu temple built by Samaldés,
the last mint master, from whom a par-
ticular coinage is still called Samal
Shahi. In the A’ ' in-i Akbar, Ahmadabad
is mentioned as one of the four cities
allowed to coin gold. When the beauti-
ful Niirjahan was Lady Govemor, rupis
'were struck here with the following in-
scription:-“Thc 13th of the installa-

nourn 2l—BOMBAY are nouns Ann-sirnsoinin. Sect. II.
tion, AJI. 1028, Nfnjahan, wife of the
Emperor J ahangir, son of Shah Akbar,
being Viceroy of Ahmadabad ;” and
gold muhrs with the inscription, “By
order of the Emperor J ahangir, gold has
acquired a hundred degrees of excellence
in receiving the name of Niirjahan.”
The place is now occupied by gold and
silver wiredrawers.
A walk along the cit wall westwards
will conduct the trave er to the Mdnik
Bum", or “ Ruby bastion,” where the
foundation of the city is said to have been
begim. Not far from this is the Jail.
This was originall the Muhammadan
College, and was c anged to its resent
use in 1820. For neatness and t e ele-
gance of its exterior it is unrivalled as
a building in Ahmadabad. It was built
by ’A’lam Khan (_}_hf1zi in AJI. 1046=
A.D. 1636, during the reign of Shah
J ahan. The building has a demi-octagon
entry with a heavy wooden portal lead-
ing into an octagonal lodge, lofty, airy,
and clean. A Persian inscription above
the entrance, may be translated as
follows :—
"The Protector of the people of the Universe
under the shadow ofthe Almighty,
The Shéhi Sahib Kiran, Timur IL, Sh5.h6.bli'd
din Muhammad, king oi’ kings;
The king of kings the great Akbar, B Sultan and
son ofa Sultan,
From amongsfhis servants, one who is in heart
and soul obedient to his mandate,
The glory of justlce—‘Alam grim the brave,
Whose sword is the life of the country,
Built in Gujarat a mansion unequalled in the
world.
Echo was aslied to siipply its idatei. A.voic'e was
heard, declaring,
‘The house of goodness and favor.’ ”
The Jail is a large open court parcelled
out into many compartments. In the
centre is a covered reservoir with 16
brass cocks, which are allotted to the
various castes of prisoners. The cistem
is 14 ft. square, and holds water for the
wants of 1000 men daily. It is filled by
a Persian wheel worked by a capstan,
about 300 yds. beyond, on the Mdnik
Burj. The risoners, who number
several hundre s, are employed in mak-
ing carpets and coarse cloths. For-
merl they made gold-embroidered stuffs,
but tliat is now given up. On the left


Bombay. nourn 21.--BOMBAY ro
MOUNT .inU—ar;1\1an.inin. 459
of the entrance to the J ail, in a recess,
is an ima e of Kali, brought here by
the Marat as, and now the fashionable
deity of the Hindus of Ahmadabad. The
Jail stands on the S.E. angle of the
citadel, within the area of which is the
’Ada'lat, a large ile erected between
1784-1800, by the Marathas, full of
dark tortuous staircases and small apart-
ments. Here, too, is the Collector’s
Oflice or Kacheri, occupying the site of
the old Muhammadan Palace, and one
of the prettiest buildin s in the whole
city. Its architect was apt. T. Remon
of the Bombay Engineers, who razed
the old palace and built this edifice in
its place. To the S. is the royal garden,
which had once 6 fountains in every bed,
and now produces most delicious vege-
tables. In an adjoining store-room is
the carpet throne of the royal line of
Ja'ka', a Hindu apostate, who founded
the dynasty of Ahmadabad.
The Badr or Citadel itself is an
extensive piece of ground in the W.
winv of the city, enclosed by a hi h
brick wall. The great entrance on t e
E. face is composed of three lofty arches,
the sides of which are adorned with
gleeful inscriptions in Persian and
abic. Before this entrance was a
square building, with archways at each
cardinal point. Between this and the
entrance was the Kdranj, a spacious
reservoir, the remains of which are con-
verted into a European shop and a row
of mean residences. At the E. gate of
the square building, where three arches
were joined into one, five archers, in
advance of the Viceroy, used to aim
their shafts, and the good or ill fortune
of the day was augured from their
success in striking the mark. The
traveller will observe the notches made
by the arrows. The gate called the
Tin darwdzah, or “ Three Doors,” is not
far from this, and over it is a marble
slab with a Marathi inscription as to
the rules of inheritance, set up b Sir J.
Carnac, when Resident of Baro a. Of
the English Factory here, established
by Aldworth, in November, 1613, it is
now impossible to trace the site. Ald-
worth died at Al_1madabad, and in 1670,
bar, E. of Surat. The English Church
was built by a talented officer, Lieut.
William Rice Dickinson, of the Bombay
En 'neers, and was consecrated by
Bis op Carr, on the 6th of January,
1848. It is a neat and tasteful edifice,
small, of course, to suit the congrega-
tion, and measuring 42 ft. from N. to
S., 71 ft. from E. to W. Close to it is
the mosque of Mahafig I_{l_ia’n, situate in
the quarter of Burhanu’l Mulk, com-
monly called Idhar ka’ chaklri. This
mosque was built in A.H. 870, by Vazir
J amalu’d-din, in the reign of Mul_iam-
mad Begarha. The entrance is mean,
the court-yard paved with sandstone,
but the coup d’aeil* of the mosque is
magnificent. It is the only masjid in
the city unimpaired by time and un-
in'ured by man. The court-yard is full
o tombs. In the same uarter is the
mosque of Sultan I_(ut_bu’ -din, son of
Ahmad Shah, built in an. 850. It is
a large massive edifice, with not much
to attract. The central arch, however,
and the carved buttresses, relieve it
from absolute u liness. Another
mosque, much praise by Forbes, is that
of the Nfiwab Shuj’aat Qan. It
adjoins the Lunatic Asylum. Accord-
ing to Briggs, it is frequently styled
the Marble, sometimes the Ivory
Mosque. On entering the area, the
first thing noticed is a fountain in ruins,
the slabs of marble having been carried
ofl' for use in the Protestant Burial
Ground. The tesselated pavement of
the Mosque itself, formed of different
colored marble, is very beautiful, and
the recesses from the Iméms are highly
finished. The minarets are une ual to
the rest of the buildin . An Ara ic in-
seription, on a black fie d, gives the date.
In the Rozah is the tomb of the founder,
and closc by the site of his magnificent
palace.
The temple of Swami Narayan may
be visited on account of the interest
attaching to the sect ;"r but the build-
ing is not remarkable. The great J ain
temple of Hathi Singh, who died im-
mensel rich in A.D. 1845, is gor eously
adorne , and blazes with gold an gems.

" Cities of Gujardshlra, p. 254-
the Factory was transferred to Nand(ir- I -y Heber_v01,1i_,;,_1qg_


~¥
460
His country house is a noble edifice, and
cost £100,000.
_The Environs of Ahmadabad abound
with interesting and beautiful spots,
where nature and art have done much
to attract the visitor. Amonv them is
the Well of Da‘da' Ha¢~ir. This is half
a mile N .E. of the Kolhapdr Gate. By
the natives it is called Nurse 1-[ari’s
Well, and a legend is told about a cer-
tain Hindu woman converted to Islam,
who vowed to construct it if she could
obtain the favor of the Sultan Mah-
mud Begarha. In the first gallery on
the S. wall is a Sanskrit inscription,
which assigns the date of Shalivahan
1421 =A.D. 1499, and states the cost at
23,29,000 Mahmfidis or half rupees.
The inscri tion on the N. wall is in
Arabic, an it rims as follows :—“Dada
Harir originally established a para in
the vicinity of this well and within the
bounds of the village of Asarva, which
he called Harirprim. He also built
the mosque and the domed building,—
the latter is his burial place. The well
was constructed in A.H. 906=A.D. 1556,
for 3,29,000 Mal_1mfidis.” The extreme
length of the well from the verge of
the W.- ground to the steps at the E.
end is 196 ft., and its greatest breadth
40 ft. At the E. end is the entrance
under a cu ola, covering 12 sq. ft., and
supported y 12 pillars. Four flights
of 8 and 9 ste s alternately lead down
to the centre. etween each two flights
is a gallery supported on columns with
a sconce on either side. In the first
gallery are the two inscriptions noted
above. At the W. end is a semicircular
wall 20ft. in diameter, adorned with
sculptured tracery down to the sheet of
water. Between this part and the centre
are series of galleries, one above another,
supported by double columns 9 ft. hi h.
Immediately before the circular bui d-
ing are cupolas, which spring above
the spiral stone stairways leading to the
ran c of galleries below, some of which
are elow water. The minarets of the
adjoining mosque -are remarkable as
having the upper part quite plain, so
that at a distance the resemble the
towers of a castle. T e mausoleum
‘1-as been broken into and the tombs

nourn 2l—BOMBAY T0 MOUNT .iBU—A1_m.m/iBA'n. Sect. II.
destroyed, and all but the N. entrance
plastered up.
The Kan/car-1'yah Tank and Naginah
Garden are also attractive spots and
only half a mile from the city. I_(u_t_-
bu’d-din, grandson of the founder of
Ahmadabad, caused these places to be
laid out. The lake is a mile in circum-
ference and situated in a pretty country,
where hills, dells, and woods combine
for the picturesque. In the lake is an
islet, and on this are the ruins of a sum-
mer palace, now gracefully overshadowed
by a grove of lofty tamarind trees. The
lake was originally lined with hewn
stone, and a stone bridge unites the
Naginah Garden on the island to the
shore, but both the bridge and the stone
lining are in ruins. Flights of steps,
however, leading down to the water re-
main, and in diiferent directions are four
cupola-roofed avilions, where visitors
may lounge and enjoy such coolness as
the water close by im arts. On the
W. shore of the lake is t e Dutch ceme-
tery. The following epitaphs are legi-
ble :—-Wilhelm Huysman. Died 28th
October, 1699. — J oharm Millisscu,
Onder Ghirur . Died 5th August,
1679.—-David oed k.-—Be ven Cor-
nelius Weyus van anda. Died 12th
January, l699.—A tombstone lastered
with lime in a peculiar watere style is
inscribed: — Begraven Dalniel Aima
Obyt, 23rd April, anno 1664.-The
epitaph on a stone with the date 1641
is illegible. There are also some tombs
of Armenians in this cemetery, probably
persons employed b the Factors. The
Dutch Factory, a eavy up r-roomed
building, stands without the t rec gates.
A mosque called Bibi Isa’ Maqfid, built
b Malik Bahau’d din, entitled ’Imf1du’l
ulk, a minister of Mahmud Begarha
in A.l-l. 874, is also close to the city,
outside the l\'. or Delhi Gate. It once
had seven minarets, of which three stood
at the outer entrance and two at the
door of the courtyard. These have been
entirely removed, but fragments of two
which stood near the sanctuary remain.
These used to rock, and were overthrown
by the earthquake of 1818. Mr. W.
B. B. Mills, of the Civil Service, who
was hunting at tho timc, saw them fall.


Bombay.
461
a *
RouTE 21—BoMBAY To MoUNT ABU-AHMADABAD.
This is, perhaps, the only mosque in
Ahmadābād in which there is no admix-
ture of Hindú ornament.
Four miles from the city and one from
the Cantonment is the Shahi Bagh, or
“Royal Garden,” a palace and country
seat £ for Sultán Khurram, *
afterwards Shāh Jahán. That prince,
then Viceroy of Ahmadābād, never en-
tered the magnificent structure raised to
receive him, the gate not being high
enough to admit him on the #, ele-
phant on which he rode. Before it
could be altered he had become emperor
of Hindústán. The domain extends
over 100 acres, and fine avenues of the
red tamarindlead to the principal build-
ing, which is a “stupendous edifice.” +
Entering the S. gate and ascending the
noble avenue a fine view is obtained of
the Palace, which stands on a high ter-
race banked by balustrades. The main
pile is a square and massive structure,
and has two projecting wings of an
octagonal shape. The roof is turreted
as well as terraced, and affords an exten-
sive view of the surrounding country.
In rear of the Palace is a woody dell,
and the Sábarmati is not far off. The
ruins of many mosques, and domes and
cupolas, still undecayed, look out on all
sides from among beautiful trees, and
the whole view may truly be styled
magnificent. The Shahí Bāgh was
finished in A.H. 1032. The town resi-
dence of the Viceroy was near the
Khánpür Darwāzah. The Cantonment
can accommodate two native regiments,
and the Koli corps has its camp without
the W. gateway.
The Royal Cemetery of Sarkhej is
43 m. S.E. of the city. On an eminence
to the E. are two pillars 30 ft. high and
12 in diameter, which, perhaps, marked
the entrance into the cemetery. The
Sábarmati once flowed at the foot of
them, t but now its course is 13 m. to
the E. On the right of the entrance is
a domed edifice, called the gumbaz of
Ganj Bakhsh. Over the door is a
Persian inscription, and above the tomb
*
..: "o" vows:
f Ibid., p. 272.
: Briggs' Firishtah, vol. iv., p. 49.
within from the centre of the dome
descends a massive chain, said to be
of silver. Here is buried a saintly
man named Shekh Ahmad Khattu
Ganj Bakhsh, the spiritual adviser of
Ahmad Shāh. He died A.D. 1445.
The gumbaz and mosque were begun by
Mahmad Shāh, and completed by
Kutbu'd-din. To the W. of the dome
is a large square building, with a
mosque upon its N. side. Along the
other sides are colonnades, and covered
seats in the S. walk overlook a tank
about a quarter of a mile long from N.
to S., : somewhat less in breadth from
E. to W. S. of the gumbaz is a chaste
stone building and the mausoleum of
Mahmūd Begarha and two of his bro-
thers, while a smaller one to the W. is
that of his Queen. The marble tomb-
stones are elegantly adorned with quota-
tions from the Kur’ān. Sarkhej, is
mentioned in the A” in-i Akbari under
the name of Sarganj. Mandeslo, who
visited the place in 1638, speaks of
“440 great pillars, 30 ft. high,” at
the gumbaz, called Zirkees. S. of these
buildings is the very sacred tomb of
Bdvd 'Ali Shir, which has no preten-
sions to architectural elegance. The
whole vicinity is covered with the re-
mains of arches, colonnades, and build-
ings of various kinds. There is also
excellent fishing in the tanks, and the
sportsman will find florican, partridges,
and game in abundance. At Sanahtal,
3 m. to the W., are the remains of a
pretty tank.
Very much in the same direction as
Sarkhej, at the same distance, but rather
more to the S., is Batwa, a large vil-
lage, where is the tomb of Kutbi’Alam,
grandson of Makhdam Jânia, the saint
of Uch (Ooch), on the Satlej. It is far
loftier than that at Sarkhej. There is
also a large tank to the S. of this tomb,
and several other similar structures,
with much elaborate adornment.
The Cemetery of Pirand is 10m. to the
S.W., and by S. of Ahmadābād. Here
are the tombs of Imām Sháh, Shekh
Sharif, and Bákir 'Ali, remarkable for
their lofty cupolas. Besides the above,
the Hird Bagh, or “Diamond Garden,”
beyond the Delhi Gate, and the stu-


~%
462
pendous dome of Darya K_han, who,
from his Satanic life, was called King of
the Imps, are worth a visit; and many
of the mosques and buildings of various
kinds are still in need of the descri tive
pencil and pen of the artist an the
explorer.
On the road to Dist. from Ahmadabad
the only work of art worth notice is the
magnificent well at Adalij. It is similar
to that already described as Dada Harir's
well, but larger. It was built by Rani
Radhébai, wife of Raja Virsani, a noble
of Mahmud Shah's court. At most of
the stations there is excellent sport of
all descriptions, and every tank is covered
with waterfowl.
(9) Died (Deesa).—This is a very hot
station, but still much liked on account
of the abundance of sport of all descrip-
tions in the vicinity. It is the sole
place in the known world where the lion
and tiger prowl in the same jungles.
The Cantonment is situated on the Z. b.
‘of the Banas, 3 m. N.E. of the town.
Among the thickets along the river's
side, tigers and leopards are often found,
and lions occasionally enter the Canton-
ment at night. In one field not far
from this station seven tigers were found
together by some officers who were hunt-
' on elephants. The sportsman may
OXIJOY himself to the full, and when tired
seek the cool retreat of Abu.
(h) A’bu (Aboo . -- The road from
Dish to Abu lea across the Banas
river and then through patches of 'un-
gle, more or less dense, to the vil age
of Anadaré at the foot of the moun-
tains. From this point a broad and
well constructed ath affords easy access
to the summit. t leads directly to the
Na.khi Talzio, or “Nail Lake," said to
have been scooped out by the nails of a
saint. This beautiful lake is studded
with islets and encircled by rocks, which
in the most picturesque forms reach
down to the margin of the water. They
are thickly covered with beautiful trees
and shrubs. Around are the European
residences, a barrack for convalescent
soldiers, and a church. Here, on the
21st of August, 1857, a detachment of
the J odhpur legion under Captain Hall
rose and attempted to murder the Euro-
nourr. 2l.—no1usxr 'r0 MOUNT .inu—.inu.

Sect. II.
cans. They fired a volley into the
arracks, having assembled before it in
the grey of the morning. The soldiers,
however, hastily throwing on their
clothes and catching up their arms,
0 ened a fusillade upon the rebels, and
s ortly after, headed by Captain Hall,
sallie out and drove them along the
road. One mutineer was shot through
the shoulder, taken and hanged; and
on the British side, Mr. Lawrence, son
of Col. George Lawrence, was wounded.
The mutineers then descended to Ana-
dara, which they plundered, and, plac-
ing their booty on carts, made off
towards Sirohi. Subsequently, the rest
of the legion, 1,000 strong, joined in
the revolt, and sufl'ered signally in
several engagements, until it was en-
tirely broken and dispersed.
Near the Nakhi Talao is Dailwdg-d,
“the region of temples.” The princi-
pal shrines are those of Ty‘ Pdl and
Vimal Sdh, the latter of which, founded
in A.D. 1031, appears to have been the
first built of all the Jain edifices on this
mountain. Colonel Tod, in his Wes-
tern I ndia,* gives the following descrip-
tion of Dailw£v;a:—
“The temple of Vrishabhdeva 1' stands
isolated in the centre of a quadrangular
court, the length of which, from E. to
W., is about l80ft., and the breadth
100ft. Along its internal faces are
ranges of cells, 19 on the larger and 10
on each of the smaller sides, each cell
being of uniform dimensions. A double
colonnaded piazza, elevated on a terrace
rising from steps above the level of the
court, passes all round in front of the
cells, the inter-columniations being the
breadth of these; each, besides its four
columns, having two ilasters to cor-
respond therewith an the partition
walls of the cells, the roofs of which
are flat. In each cell, opposite to the
door of entrance, is an elevated altar,
on which is placed the image of some
one of the 24 J in-cshwars. Architraves
passing from each pair of columns and
resting on the corresponding pilasters,
constitute a separate vestibule to each
* P. 102.
1' Vrishabha is the first of the J sin pontifls
of the present mra.


Bombay.
468
noun: 2l.—-BOMBAY ro MOUNT .iBu—iBU.
cell, and this is rendered the more dis-
tinct by "every compartment between
the four columns having either avaulted
or flat roof. The whole is of pure white
marble, every column, dome, and altar
varying in form and ornament, the rich-
ness and delicac of execution being
indescribable. ach of the 58 cells
merits an entire day’s study, and a first-
rate encil to delineate it. It is as-
serte that each separate coll was added
by wealthy individuals of various cities
and countries professing the Jain faith,
which may account for the great diver-
sity of style and ornament, while the
harmony and symmetry of the whole
attest that one master mind must have
lanned and executed, except at the
.W. angle, where some dissimilarity
prevails. The altars are of a chaste
and simple design, while money, labor,
skill, and taste have been lavished on
-the details of the colonnade wherein
each of the columnar rules of Jain
architecture has its example. Each cell
contains its statue dedicated to the par-
ticular objcct of worship of the person
at whose expense it was raised, and in-
scriptions recording the period of erec-
tion are carved on the inner lintel of
every doorway. We now descend to
the tesselated marble pavement in the
area, crossing which we reach the
Sow-.3.-mandap, fronting the shrine of
Vrishabhdeva. It may be well in the
first instance to explain the meaning of
this term (mandap) in Hindii architec-
ture, which belongs more to the Sivite
than to the Jain style, and was perhaps
borrowed from the former. The man-
da may be either square or circular,
an its roof, whether vaulted or pyra-
midal, is enerally supported by open
columns. n the Sivite shrine it contains
the symbolic bull, while the appropriate
representative, the lingam, occupies the
interior cell. Whoever has noticed the
ichnographic plan of the temple of
Jupiter Serapis at Puzzuoli, will be
tolerably familiar with a Sivite shrine.
With the J ain, the mandap contains no
object of adoration, and serves merely
for the votaries to prepare themselves
and their ofl'erings. The one in ques-
tion has a hemispherical vault of 24 ft.

diameter, supported by columns of pro-
portioual height. As these are ranged
in a quadrangle, ponderous architraves
are thrown across, excluding the corner
columns, thus making the dome rise
from an octagonal base. This is only
perceptible from the inside; externally
it appears an ovate spheroid, but ob-
taine from an horizontal, not a radiat-
ing pressure. Each pair of columns is
connected b a tonm, or trium hal arch,
of peculiar ut very elegant orm, and
of most elaborate workmanship. On
the E., N., and S. sides, intervening
columns unite the mandap with those of
the piazza, and thus conjoined, they fill
up one entire side of the area. The
roofs either domed or flat, which cover
these intervening columns and surround
the larger vault rivet attention. In
their surfaces are sculptured innumer-
able incidents from the various epics,
—the Rdindyana, the Maltziblidrat, etc.,
thus whimsically blending the unitarian
and olytheistic sects; while Kanya in
the llas-Mandala is represented en-
circled by the Gopis, relieved by fes-
toons of folia e, flowers, and fruit.
While the eye etects a want of ease in
the figures of the animals, the most
fastidious critic could not find fault
with the copies from inanimate nature.
The flowing lines and graceful pendant
flowers could not be surpassed by the
work of any chisel in Europe.
“ Passing throu h a court, a flight of
steps conducts to t e rival temple dedi-
cated to Piirshwanath the 23rd, and
most popular of the Jin-eshwars. This
shrine was erected by the brothers Tej
Pal and Basant Pal, likewise mer-
chants of the Jain ersuasion, who in-
habited the city of handravatf, during
the sway of Dharaburz, and when
Bhim Deo was paramount sovereign of
Western India. The design and execu-
tion of this shrine and all its accessories
are on the model of the preceding,
which, however, as a whole, it sur-
passes. It has more simple majesty,
the fluted columns sustaining the man-
dap are loftier, and the vaulted interior
is full equal to the other in richness
of scu pture, and superior to it in the
execution, which is more free and in


Bombay.
465
noors 21—nomn.ur T0 MOUNT inu—.ino.
figure of Parshwanath. Externally the
temple is plain, and there is nothing to
indicate the magnificence within, exce t
the spire peeping over the plain wa l.
The great pillars are of the same height
as those of the smaller external porticoes,
and like them finish with the universal
bracket capital of the East. Upon this
an upper dwarf column or attic is placed
to give additional height, and on these
up er columns rest the great beams or
arc itraves which support the dome;
as, however, the bearing is long, at least
in appearance, the weight is relieved by
a. curiousangular strut or truss of white
marble, which, springing from the lower
capital, seems to support the middle of
the beam.”
In the Asiatic Researches‘ will be
found a translation of the Kbu inscrip-
tions and a historical memoir of the
princes in whose reign most of the build-
ings there were erected. The 18th and
19thinscriptions are on the temple of Tej -
pal, and intimate that a temple or group
of temples were dedicated to Neminath
by the brothers Tejpal and Vastupal, of
whom Tejpal was Jlludrd Vydpdri,
“ Keeper of the Seals,” or Minister to
Bhima Deva. The dates are Vikram
1287 = A.D. 1231. Another inscription
states that Vimala Sal» built the temple
of Adi Ndtha in Samwat 1379 =
A.D. 1313. The inscriptions may be
divided into Saiva and ain, of which
the Saiva date from A.n. 671 to 1821,
and the Jain from 4.1). 1189 to 1752.
The original worship in the mountains
appears to have been that of the Lingam
under the name of Achaleshwara, “or
the immovable Lord.” The Jain faith
was engrafted on the older religion in
A.D. 1032, when Vimala Shah built a
temple of Adinath, the first of the Jain
series. In 1189, the traces of Jain faith
are frequent, and in that year the images
of Ara and Santi Nath were set up by
Yasadhavala, of the royal house of
Gujarat. Kumara Pal, the sovereign
of Gujarat, was converted to the Jain
faith in Samwat 1230 = A.D. 1174. In
A.D. 1231, Vastupal and Tejpal, minis-
ters of the feudatory chief o Chandra-
vati, were munificent adorners of the
* Vol. xvi., p. 284.

spot. Kbu was lon de endent on
Anhilwada, but immc 'ate y governed
by the chiefs of Chandravatl. From
them it was transferred to the rulers of
Meda, and from them again to the
Baas of Sirohi.
After satiating his eyes with the beau-
tiful temples of Dailwara, the traveller
must proceed to the ancient fortress of
Achalgarh. The entrance is by the
Hanuman Gate, -which has two noble
towers built of huge blocks of granite,
black with the storms of a thousand win-
ters. The towers wcre originally united
by a guard-room at top, and this portal
opens into the lower fort, now in ruins.
A second gate, called the Obampd-pol,
conducts to the inner fortress. The
first object that strikes the eye is a
beautiful Jain tem le built at the sole
ex ense of a. ban er of Mandu, the
co umns of which resemble those of the
ancient shrine at Ajmir. The upper
fortress is said to be the work of Rand
Kumbho, when driven from his 84
castles in Mewar; but his work was
merely that of rc airing what had been
built centuries be ore. On the left is the
palace of his queen, called the Oka-
Mandal, from the country of Oka, where
she was born. On the highest emi-
nence to the E. are the remains of an
alarm tower of the Parmars, the name
of whose gallant chief Lakshman is
recorded on the pillar of Delhi. After
the lapse of 7 centuries the Rajpfit of
every tribe pays homage to it. On the
descent from the fort, the traveller will
remark an equestrian brass statue of
Rana Kumbho, one of his son Rana
Mokal, and one of his grandson Uday
Singh, who “tarnished the glory of a
hundred kings.”
The next visit must be to the shrine
of Achal-eshwar, “one of the most
renowned in the fabulous annals of the
Hindus." Here is the Mdn-agni-kunda,
or “fire-font,” 900 ft. long by 240 ft.
broad, excavated in the solid rock and
lined with solid masonry of immensely
large bricks. On a mass of rock in the
centre is a mud shrine of Mata, “the
universal mother.” On the crest of the
N. face is a group of temples to the
Panda brothers also in ruins. On the


466
Sect. II.
RouTE 21.—BOMBAY To MoUNT ABU-ABU.
W. side is the shrine of Achal-eshwar,
a massive building. On entering, the
eye is attracted by a statue of Pârvati,
and it is only on looking into a deep
fissure in the rock that the bright toe-
nail of Shiva is visible, which has here
been worshipped from remote ages. In
front of the temple is a colossal brazen
bull, much indented on the flanks,
having been broken into by Mahmud
Begarha, the monarch who is the origi-
nal of Butler's “Prince of Cambay,”
whose—
44 daily food
Is asp, and basilisk, and toad.”
On the very verge of the Agni-kund is
the tomb of Ráo Mán of Sirohi, who
was poisoned in one of the Jain temples.
His body was burnt near the shrine, and
five of his queens entered the fire with
his corpse. On the E. side of the kund
is a temple to the founder of the Par-
már race. The statue of Adipal, of
white marble, 5 ft. high, is thought by
Tod to be the finest piece of sculpture
in India, except the figures on the
Barolli column.
Having ascended from Anādarā, the
traveller may descend into the plains by
Girwar and thence visit the ruins of
Chandrávati, which are 10 m. off. He
may then return to Anādarā. The road
by Girwar is thus described:—*
“Mount Abu is said to be most easily
accessible from the direction of Sirohí
and Jhálor. On the Gujarát side, the
ascent which possesses the greatest inte-
rest is that from the village of Girwar; it
is, however, impracticable except to foot
men. The traveller from the shrine
of Ambá Bhawāni passes for a lon
distance through romantic highlan
scenery, his lonely pathway usually the
bed of a mountain torrent. All is
grand in this region,-lovely and wild,
as if it were destined by nature to be
the haunt of her favorite progeny, where
human passions should never intrude to
disturb the harmony of the scene. The
sky is cloudless; the notes of cuckoos
are heard responding to each other from
amidst the deep foliage, while the jun-
gle-fowl are crowing their matinals in
the groves of bamboo which shelter
* Rás Málá, p.264.
them; and groups of grey partridge,
nestled in the trees, vie with the ring-
doves in expressions of delight, as the
sun clears the cliffs and darts his rays
among them. Others of the feathered
tribe, not belonging to the plains, are
flying about, while the woodpecker's
note is heard reverberating from the
hard surface on which he plies the
power of his bill. Fruits and flowers
of various kinds and colors invite the
inhabitants of the forest, whether quad-
ruped or feathered, and the industrious
bee here may sip the sweetest of sweets
from jasmine, white or yellow, climbing
the giant foliage, from kámbir or kānoa,
whose clustering purple and white
flowers resemble the lilac, or from the
almond-scented oleander which covers
the banks of the stream, on whose mar-
gin abundantly flourishes the ricinus,
or the willow. No human form ap-
pears to disturb the charm of this en-
chanting solitude, except perhaps the
grave figure of some Rajpat cavalier, a
pilgrim to Ambaji, who, with shield at his
back and spear swaying on his shoulder,
fills the vista of a long and narrow
gorge, in which a handful of stout hearts
might stand against a host; or a group
of quiet grain-carriers, with piled up
sacks and grazing cattle, occupies some
lovely wild spot in the heart of the
defile, where the crystal stream expands
into a little turf-bordered pool. By-
and-bye the hills slope away into a
level valley, which, though more or less
sandy, exhibits many fertile spots, pro-
ducing abundant crops of grain, with
little villages here and there, and rivu-
lets flowing from the mountains that in
the distance raise, in front and rear,
their gigantic forms. Majestic Abu,
shrouded in its cloak of mist, now en-
grosses every thought, its varying out-
line filling the imagination with a
thousand suggestive forms, until a near
view is at last obtained of its precipitous
face; its dark recesses lined with forest
and underwood, and streaked with many
a silver stream; its ": shoulders
pushed majestically forwards in their
garb of £ variegated, as the sun
rises towards his meridian, with tints of
brightest gold.


Bombay.
467
RouTE 21.—BoMBAY To MoUNT ABU-ABU.
“Over one of these spurs a path may be
seen from the village of Girwar, wind-
ing like a thread upon the mountain's
side, now rising and again, sinking
almost to its former level. Through a
thick and tangled forest it pursues its
lengthened ascent to a small spot of level
ground, below an almost perpendicular
scarp, where, amidst a grove of magni-
ficent foliage, is embowered the shrine
of Wasishth Muni. The traveller rests
here in a little garden filled with the
strongly-perfumed flowering shrubs that
are natives of the mountain, among
which the yellow Rewara is conspicu-
ous; and sight and smell thus regaled,
his sense of hearing is not less pleasingly
entertained with the melodious murmur-
ing of the waters which, ' forth
through a cow's mouth sculptured in the
rock, are received into an excavated
basin beneath it. The temple of the
Muni is a small and unimportant edifice,
sufficient to contain a black marble
figure of the sage, who called from the
fire-fountain of Achaleshwar the ances-
tors of the Rajpat tribes. There is also
a brass figure '. of the martial hero
of Abugarh, “the terror of the Danuj,”
Dhārāwarsh, the Parmer, who is repre-
sented in the act of supplication to the
sage, the creator of his race. From the
shrine of Wasishth Muni the ascent is
continued by a long flight of steps cut
in the living rock, which conduct at
length to the level of the plains of Abu.
Arrived at this spot, the traveller may
well fancy himself to have reached a new
world—an island floating in the air. The
table-land is walled on all sides by abrupt
and lofty cliffs, similar to those which
he has ascended; it possesses an area of
several miles; contains villages and
hamlets; is ornamented by a lake and
by more than one rivulet, and wears a
coronet of mountain peaks, of which the
highest is that called, from a little shrine
on the summit, “The Saints' Pinnacle,”
and the most remarkable that which is
crowned by “the fortress that cannot be
shaken, the renowned Achalgarh.
“The country between the shrine of
Vasishth and Dailwārā is thus pleas-
ingly described by the annalist of Raj-
pútána. “There is more of cultivation,
the inhabitants are more numerous, the
streams and foliage more abundant; here
and there a verdant carpet decked the
ground, while some new wonder, natural
or artificial, appeared at every step.
Every patch where corn would grow was
diligently tilled, and in this short space
I passed four of the twelve hamlets of
Abu. On the margin of each running
brook was the aret, or Egyptian wheel
for irrigation, and, as the water lies close
to the surface, the excavations were not
required to be deep. The boundaries of
these arable fields, chiefly of the prickly
cactus, were clustered with the white
dog-rose, with which was intermingled
the kind called seoti (sacred to Seo or
Shiva), much cultivated in the gardens
of India. . The pomegranate was lite-
rally growing out of a knoll of granite,
where there was scarcely any soil be-
yond the decomposed surface of the rock.
The apricot or nectarine appeared occa-
sionally, covered with fruit; but being
et quite green, it seems probable that
it will never ripen. They also brought
grapes, which, from their size, I should
have deemed cultivated. These, as well
as the citron, are claimed amongst the
indigenous products of Abu. The mango
was abundant, and a rich and elegant
parasite, with a beautiful pendant blue
and white flower, resembling the lobelia,
found root in its moss-covered branches.
This parasite is called ambatri (from
amba, mango) by the mountaineers,
with whom it appeared an especial favor-
ite, as I observed that whenever it grew
within reach it was plucked and
“wreathed in their dark locks” and
their turbans. Of flowers there was a
profusion; amongst them were the jas-
mine, and all the varieties of the balsam
as common as thistles. The golden
champa, the largest of the flowerin
trees, rarely met with in the plains, an
which, like the aloe, is '' to flower
but once in a century, was seen at
every hundred yards, laden with blos-
soms and filling the air with perfumes.’
The rest of Route 21 has not been
lately described by any traveller, and
the notice of the places is reserved for
a future edition.


468 Sect. II. Bombay.
SINDH DIVISION.
Preliminary Information.
I. BOUNDARIES AND GENERAL ASPEUI‘ OF THE DIVISION—SUB-DIVISIONS AND
CHIEF TOWNB.——2. HISTORICAL SK]?/1‘GH—CAS’I‘ES—EMPLOYMENTS or Tau
Nxrrvrs.
1. BOUNDARIES LND GENERAL ASPECT OF THE DIVISION——~SUB-DIVISIONS AND
CHIEF TOWNS.
The province of Sindh has its name from the Skr. word sindhuh, “ ocean,"
“flood,” applied to the great river Indus, which name is merely a corruption of
the Skr. word. The natives to this day, in speaking of the Indus, always call it
daryd, a Persian word of equivalent signification to sindhuk. Sindh lies between N.
lat. 23° 37' and 28° 32, and E. long. 66° 43' and 71° 3', and is 360 m. long from
N. to S., and, where broadest, 270 m. from E. to W. The measurement of the
area in sq. m. is very variously given, being, aceordin to Thornton, 52,120, and
according to the Bombay Selected Records, No. xvii. or 1855, xlii., 60,240 sq.
m. This latter statement includes 2,708 sq. m. of territory elon ng to Mir
'Ali Murad, and would make Sindh 2,427 sq. m. larger than Englan and Wales
together. The population is remarkably low, scarcely exceeding 20 persons to
the sq. m., which is partly owin to the extensive tracts of waste and of forest land.
Sindh is bounded on the . by Bilfichistan and Bhawalpiir; on the E. by
J aysalmir and Mai-war (or J odhpfir) ; on the S. by Kaehh and the Indian Ocean;
and on the W. by Makrén, the country of the Brahiiis and the Bolan.
The General aspect of the Division is that of an alluvial plain shut in by the
Hale Hills on the W. and by deserts on the E., and is such as to have occasioned
a comparison with E t, which country Sindh in many points strongly resembles,
bein almost as depen ent on the Indus, as Efgflypt on the Nile, for irrigation and
ferti ization, on a ar as regards the scant of rain, and agreeing very much
in its vegetable an animal roducts. At arachi, the annual fall of rain does
not exceed 6 inches; at Hai arabad, 2.55 inches; and at Larkhana, in N. Sindh,
three years have passed without any rain at all, as during Hamilton's visit in
1699, when no rain fell in that district for three years. On the 15th of Jul ,
1839, the day the Amirs signed the new treaty with the British, it rained heavily
at Haidarabad, and the rain continued at intervals for four days, a most unusual
circumstance. Many houses and part of the cit wall fell, owing to the rain,
and the Amirs and people looked upon it as a ad omen, and were filled with
superstitious alarm in consequence.
The Indus is called Sindhuh throughout its course, but from Kalabagh to
At_ak* it is sometimes locally termed Atalr. From Bakar to Kalabagh is the
Upper Indus; from Bakar to the sea the Lower Indus. From the sea to Atak,
in a straight line, is 648 m. ; by the river 942 m. The width of the surface water in
the dry season is from 480 to 1,600 yds. ; the average width 680. The greatest
depth is found between Ka.labiigl_i and Atak, where it is 186 ft., the average
' Afak, in Hindustani, signifies “stop." this river being regarded as the boundary of India.


~_
470 HISTORICAL sxsrcn. Sect. II. Bombay.
of that period appear to have been much the same as Alexander the Great found
them in 326 n.c. The great change in the course of the Indus since that time
prevents recognition of the places said to have been visited by the conqueror. It
1s probable that the Indus then flowed much to the E. of its present course, passing
by the walls of the ancient city of Alor. According to the tradition of the country
periodical floods of eat height take place about twice in a century, and produce
great alterations. hus, in 1819, the ear of the earthquake,‘* which deepened
the arm of the sea so greatly between achh and Sindh, there was an extraordi-
nary flood, which efl'ected great changes in the Sindh Delta. The depth, too, to
which some ancient cities, as Brahmanabad for example, have been buried, shows
that earthquakes have been productive of alterations which render it im ossible
to identify the cities and routes described by Arrian. In the words 0 a late
author,1~ “Beyond the apparent identity of such places as Pattala with Tatta,
and Crocola with Karachi, there is in reality nothing whatever to attest that
here the great conqueror was.” From the time of Alexander to the 7th century,
A.D., nothing is known of the history of Sindh. Arab descents on Sindh by sea
are mentioned as early as the Qalifat of ’Umr. Several expeditions were also
sent through Makran to invade the countriesl 'ng on the Indus; but all failed
until, in 711, A.D., in the reign of the 1_(_l1alifa Walid, Hajj aj, the Governor of
Basrah, dispatched an army of 6,000 men under his nephew, Muhammad bin
Kasim, a youth o'f 20, to conquer Sindh. This general took first Dewal,i the sea-
ort, and then marched b Brahmanabad and Sewan to Alor, the capital of
indh. Here Raja Dahir, who seems to have been the supreme ruler of the
country, was defeated and slain, and, after one more desperate stand by the
Rajpfits at Ashkandra, Muhammadan rule was firmly established on the Indus.
Kasim, according to the Tarikh-i Hind wa Sindh,|| consolidated his conquests
with wisdom equal to his valor; but, being falsely accused by the daughters of
Dahir, was cruelly put to death by Walid. He was succeeded by Tamim, in
whose family the government of Sindh remained for 36 ears. After this period,
according to Elphinstonefll “the Muslims were ex elle by the Rajpfit tribe of
Sumra, and all their Indian conquests were restore to the Hindus, who retained
possession for nearly 500 years.” This statement, however, is contradicted by
other authorities, according to whom ** the lieutenants of the ’Abbas Qialifs were
deputed to Sindh for three centuries. In 1025, A.D., Mahmfid of Qiazni unques-
tionably conquered Sindh, and it was probably not till 1064 that the Sztmrds attained
to power. In 1340, the Sammds, another native tribe—converts, like the Sfimras,
to Islam-—acquired the government. These again were overthrown in 1521 b
Shah Beg Arghun, who was driven from Kandahar by Babar. Shah Beg is sai
to have committed suicide not long after his conquest, and was succeeded by his
son Shah Husain, in whose reign, in 1540, Humayfin fled to Sindh, and in his
flight, the illustrious Akbar was bom at’Umrkot. Mirzé. ’l's!1 Tirkhan shortly
after this rebelled against Shah Husain, who died and left the rebel without a
rival. Mirza ’I'sa employed the Portuguese as mercenaries, and they, during his
absence, set fire to Thattha. In 1590, Akbar conquered Sindh, and the authority
* For an account of this extraordinary event, see Bomb. Lit. 7'ram., vol. iii.. p. 90.
T Personal Ob.ver~vatiom on Sindh, by Captain Postans, p. 144.
Z Perhaps ’i‘ha_ttha, so named from a vast Dewal, or idol temple, the most conspicuous
building there.
§ According to the Chachmimah, a work of rather doubtful authorit Dshir was a Brah-
man and the son of Chach. '1his Chach was prime minister of the fa of Sindh, and ob-
Itgaggipeq the soverelznty by an intrigue similar to that which gave to Gyges the throne of his
|| This history was written by Muhammad ’AlI bin Humud in AJI. 6l3=A.D. 1216, but pro.
fcsses to be a t1'ans_lati0n of an Arabic work writtemimmedlately after the conquest and
found in the possession oi’ the Kan of Bakar.
'1! P. 202. ' '
" Personal Obasroatlomon Sindh, p. I53.


472 HISTORICAL SKETCH Sect. II. Bombay
out 'Abdu'n-nabi, and finally obtained from Zamān Sháh, the Afghān, king,
a confirmation of his title as ruler of Sindh. He associated with himself, but
in a subordinate position, his brothers Ghulām 'Ali, Karam’Ali, and Murād ‘Ali,
and, having settled the internal affairs of the country, recovered Karáchi from
Khil'at, but ‘Umrkot, which had been ceded to Jodhpur, was not recovered till
1813. Of his two nephews, Suhrab obtained the principality of Khairpur
(Khyrpore), and Mír Tará that of Mirpur. So amicably did the four brothers
rule at Haidarabad that they were called the Char Yār, or “Four friends.”
Fath 'Ali died in 1801, leaving a son, Sabahdar, but bequeathed two-fourths of
his territory to Ghulām 'Ali, and one-fourth to each of the others. The joint
government continued, and peace £ among the brothers and their families
in a manner which was the theme of astonishment to the surrounding nations.
Ghulam 'Ali died in 1811, leaving a son, Mir Muhammad, but Karam"'Ali and
Murád retained the government as long as they survived. Murád left two sons,
Nür Muhammad 'í Nasir Khān, of whom, in the redistribution of power and
territory consequent on the death of all the elder Amirs, Nür Muhammad was
elected Rais or chief. In the meantime the English Government had been making
advances towards the occupation of Sindh. On the 21st of August, 1809, a treat
had been concluded with the Amirs, by which they agreed not to allow the Frenc
to establish themselves in the province. On the 9th of November, 1820, a new
treaty was made to exclude European and American adventurers. On the 22nd
of April, 1832, and the 23rd of December, 1834, other treaties opened the roads
in Sindh and the Indus to trade. On April the 20th, 1838, new stipulations were
made for the residence of a political officer at Haidarābād; and next year diplo-
matic operations were £ and on the 15th of July, 1839, a new treaty was
signed by the Amirs of Haidarābād, by which they were compelled to cede an
encampment for 5,000 British troops, and to supply £30,000 a-year towards the
expenses of the force, to abolish all tolls on the river, to admit the Company's
rupee, and to forbear from all negotiations with foreign States, as also to furnish
3,000 auxiliary troops when required. . A separate treaty with Khairptir, signed
on the 24th of December, 1838, placed that principality in subordinate alliance
with the British Government, £ a separate article obtained from Mír Rustam,
the then Ráis, and son of Suhráb, the fort of Bakar as a depôt in time of war.t.
This fortress, in contempt of the treaty, was at once permanently occupied, and
this although Sir A. Burnes had informed the Governor-General that Mir Rustam
considered it the key of his country, and that his honor would be compromised by
its retention. Subsequently, the Governor-General imposed an enormous fine of
£300,000 on the Amirs under the name of arrears of tribute to Sháh Shuj'a,
the Afghān prince, who was to be reinstated on the throne of Kábul: , These
aggressions led to discontent and distrust, on the part of the Amirs, which were
strongly fomented by the conduct of Mr. Ross Bell, who supported the rebellious
attempts of 'Ali Murad, the younger brother of Mír Rustam, against his Ráis.
Finally, Sir C. Napier, by a series of aggressive measures, forced the Amirs of
Haidarābād to open resistance, and having defeated them at the battle of Miyání
on the 17th of February, 1843, and again on the 24th of March at Dappa, or
Dabba, on the Phulelí, annexed the whole country.f
The principal tribes in Sindh are the Bilūchis, the Jats or Sindhis, who were
* Karam 'Ali ceded the post of Ráis to his brother Murád. See the Amirs own narrative
of events in their family, in Dry Leaves from Young #gypt, Appendix, p. 362,3rd Ed.
Sindh Correspondence, 1836:1843, p. 151, “If the Governor-General in time of war should
£ £py the fortress of Bakar as a depot for treasure and munitions, the Amir shall not
Object to lt.
# The question of the English policy towards the Amirs may be examined in the writings
of Sir W. Napier and Sir J. Outram, and in the Amirs own statement in the Appendix to
Dry Leaves from Young Egypt. On the one side are the voices of Sir C. Napier and his
brother, and Sir C. Napier's Secretary; on the other, in favor of the Amirs, the unanimous
voice of all the political officers of any note employed in Sindh, of General Jacob, and the
majority of military men occupied in the reduction of the country.


~_
474
ROUTE 25.
rnou xamicni (KURRACHEE on CURRA-
cman) T0 Loani on noni BY "rnsfrni
TATTA) (5811. Oil-‘.) nsrnmfinin
114111. 5_‘;r‘.), VISITING THE numsn
crrv or BRAHMANXBAD AND THE
BATTLE-FIELD or imzirii.
STAGES. PLACES.
M. F. M. F.
(a) From Karachi Can-
tonment to Mallir r. 6 0
JAMZADKR Kl’ LA’NDl’




bandd/1. ...... .. 6 0; 12 05
Pfpri, b. and dh. .. .. 10 2
WATTEJI', a’/2. ....... .. 5 2 15 4
(b) >< 2 n. to GIIA'RK
(hence visit Bambh ura)
0. . ..................... .. 9 3; 9 as
x r. near Gunda ....... .. 6 4
GU’J A Collector’s Bangle.
and db. ............. .. 5 21 11 6}
Markar .... .. 6 0
(0) THATTHA1 (Tatta),
E. side 6.12.0 ........... .. 3 2 9 2
IIELAH, dlz. .......... .. 15 2 15 2
(a) JARRAK, b. and db.
W ................... 15 3; 15 3}
A'NGA'R, db .............. .. 9 4 9 4
MIYA'NI’ MUL'1‘A’NI'
x Indus to entrenched
camp,dh. .. .......... 12 7i 12 7}
(e)I;IA DARA’BAD(hence
visit’Umrko? b.p.o.... 3 4 3 4
(f) MIYA'N (Meea-


nee) 6. ............... 6 4} 6 4}
MATTA’Rl', b and dk... 9 1 9 1
RASI’D KHAIBAR, dh. 7 6} 7 5%
(9) HALA', (hence visit
Brahmanabad), b. and
db. ........ ...... ll O 11 0
SAIYID KA’ GOT, b.
and d/1. ...... .. .. 10 4 10 4
Duli Ka Dera .......... .. 16 3
KA’JI' KA'GOT, b.&dh. 15 25 15 2%
DAULATPUR, 6. & db. 16 1} 16 1;
MOHRA, b. and db. 11 5; 11 5%
NAUSHAHRA, b&dh. 15 2; 15 2%
LA’KKA,dh .............. .. 13 0; 13 og
l1ALLA’Nl’ BILA’Nl’, 6.
and dh. ................ .. 9 1 9 1
HINGURGA .. 10 2 10 2
RA’Nl'PU’R .. .. 7 6 7 6
FATHPUR ............. .._10 O 10 0
noun: 25.—KAu.ic11i T0 noai-—1mn.icni.

Sect. II.
PLACES. srsons.
M. 1‘. M F.
LUKMAZN KK TANDA 12 7 12 7
(/1) RORI’ 10 4% 16 4;
314 0;
(a) Kardchi (Kurrachee) is distant
from Bombay 808 m., and the time oc-
cupied by a steamer in reaching it from
the Presidency is in general 4 days. Pas-
sengers land at the Kimari (Keamaree)
Bandar, where alkis and shigrams are
easily procurab e to convey the tourist
to the traveller's bangla, which is 2% m.
distant in an E. direction on the Bandar
road. The bangla has 10 rooms and
every sort of supply is procurable at
Treacher and Go.’s stores, close by.
Messrs. Treacher and Co. have also
banglas to let, by the week or month,
the rates being about 50 rupees per
month for a bangla, with a garden and
stables. It must be particularly re-
marked that the only good well is near
Messrs. Treacher’s store, close to the
Liyari river. The municipality have
undertaken to carry pipes from this
well over the station; but at present
the water in other places is not gJood,
and tends to produce diarrhoea. lose
to the landing place is the site of the
Sindh Railway terminus. The line will
run about half a mile in an E direction,
and then turn to the N.E., pass' from
Kimlari Island across the new c annel
for diverting the water of the Chinna
Creek. The line was formally com-
menced on the 29th of April, 1858
when the Commissioner, Mr. Frere, an
the other authorities attended; and
from that date the part from Karachi to
Haidarabad, 110 m., has been under
construction. From Haidarabad to
Multan, a distance of 570 m., the traflic
will for the present be carried on in the
steamers of the Indus Steam Flotilla
Company. From Sakar to Dadar at
the mouth of the Bolan, a distance of
160 m., there will be an extension of
the Sindh Railway, and likewise an
extension from Haidarabfid to Disu,
260 m. From Multan, lines of railway
will run to Lahor, and thence to Am-
;-itsir and Peshawar.
N. of the Railway Terminus is the


Bmnbay.
475
aours 25.—1ua.icni 'ro noni-xsmicni.
Custom House, and beyond that it is
proposed to have docks and a basin for
ships parallel to the Napier Mole. Other
roposcd works‘ are a breakwater pier
rom Manora Point, 1,500 ft. long, at
an estimated cost of £110,000; a stone
groyne upon Kimari Sand Spit, 7,400 ft.
long, at a cost of £42,000, with an E.
pier, 2,600 ft. long, to cost £40,000;
a bridge over a proposed tidal opening
in the Napier Mole, £40,000; a native
jetty or quay, £28,000; and a new
channel from the Chjnna Creek, at a
cost of £18,000.
Government Home is about 5 m. from
Bandar-road point, and 1% from the tra-
veller’ s bangle. In going to Government
House from the travellcr’s bangla, the
barracks are passed on the left, and are
worth inspection, being remarkably fine
buildings, extending over a vast space.
S. of Government House, 3 m., is Clifton
Marine Sanatarium, with good bathing
and sands. Here in fact is the only
bathing, for at Manora it cannot be at-
tempted on account of sharks, not to
mention the surf. At Clifton there are
private ban las to be rented. The rides
on the sands are very enjoyable. Ex-
cellent fish can be procured, and especi-
ally soles and black and white pomfret.
Oysters are abundant, but large ; shrimps
andcrawfish and bobils, commonly called
bummelos, as well as many other varie-
ties of fish, are obtainable. The enor-
mous basking shark is often caught, and
specimens have been east ashore 60ft.
long. They are quite harmless, and are
killed for their fins, etc. At the Govern-
ment gardens is an excellent swimming
bath; the water from the well that
irrigates the gardens passes through the
bath. A subscription of 4 rupees er
month, entitles residents to vegetab es,
flowers, and fruit from these gardens.
The cauliflowers, lettuces, peas, beans,
are excellent. A band plays occa-
sionally at the gardens, an , on alter-
nate nights, at the collectors /caeheri,
or on the parade ground.
The Bay of Karachi is the more E. of
two large bays formed by the junc-
tion of the Smdh and Goadar coasts,
' see Mr. James Walker's second report on
Karachi harbor, 1858.

and is situated between Ras Muari
Cape Monze of the old charts) and the
ilti or W. mouth of the Indus. It
embraces an extent of 83 m. of sea coast,
and recedes in the centre to a depth of
8 m. The shore is very low, consistin
of heaps of loose sand, thinly dotte
with the prickly pear, and on the E.
side with the tamarisk. To the N. the
Hala range, descending from theinterior,
ends at Ras Muari in a long, narrow
precipitous ridge, about 1,200 ft. high,
and is washed on both sides of the Cape
by the sea. Further inland the moun-
tains average about 3000 ft. On the E.
side of the bay the Delta of the Indus
commences, in which not a hill or rising
round is to be seen. Karachi harbor
15 at the head of the bay. On the sum-
mit of the rocky cape that forms the \V.
point is a small fort, built to command
the entrance. It is situated in N. lat.
24° 47' 17", and E. long. 67° 51".
The Baghar, or \V. branch of the Indus,
falls into the bay 15 m. below the har-
bor. Its mouth, the Pilti, is wide but
shallow, and choked with sand banks.
A few m. above it is a long irregular
bay, in which is a low flat island oppo-
site the S. end, of which the Ghisri, a
salt water river, called the Ghara in the
u per part, reaches the sea. It is 500
g . wide at the mouth, and leads to
andar Ghara, a small seaport about
30 m. from the sea. It has no com-
munication with the Indus. About R55
Muari there are 14 fathoms close to the
rocks. In most parts of the bay the
bottom is soft mud, and the soundings
decrease towards the E. shore up to the
edge of a broad sandbank lying ofl‘ it.
This bank commences at the mouth of
the harbor, crosses the mouths of the
Baghar and Gharé, and has from 2}
fathoms to 3 ft. water on it. The har-
bor is nearly 5 m. long, and extends E.
and W. 10 m., three-fourths of this area
being mud flats or shoals, partiallydry
at low tide. The W. side is formed by
a narrow ridge of loose sand with steep
cliffs at the extremity about 100 ft. hi ll.
On the summit of this rocky cape, cal ed
Manora or Mamira (Munhora), is a small
fort, built in 1797, a mosque, and other
buildings; and half-a-mile beyond them,


476
Sect. II.
nourn 25.—xsn.'
Bombay.
477
RouTE 25.—KARACHí To RoRí—soNMIYANí.
the journey may be conveniently made
in 4 marches, it being requisite to carry
tents. The stages are as follows:–
PLACES. STAGES.
M. F. M. F.
From Karáchi and x bed
of Karáchir. ............
x shallow inlet of sea......
Patali tank, dry ...... • • * * * *
Patta tank, dry ............
x rocky ridge ...
x ditto..........
|
|
x muddy n...................
Pass thin jungle to HAB r.
400 yds. wide, with sandy
pebbly channel .........
Enter Gandába Lakk, a
narrow stony pass in the
Pab mountains
Pass small tank and tombs
x Bhawání r., with sandy
bed, and well, 55ft. deep
x Bhāgal ravine, steep and
deep
1
1
:0:
contains several scores of alligators,
which lie concealed in the ooze and
mud until the summons is heard.
The stillness of the bluish water, and of
the motionless palms, which seems more
profound from the intense heat and the
cloudless glittering sky above, contrasts
strangely with the wild cry of the un-
earthly looking Fakir and the sudden
rush of a crowd of unwieldy monsters
lashing and £ to the bank.
he largest of all is called Mor Sáhib,
which is an appellation probably de-
rived from a demon 'it': five £
destroyed by Krishnah, and from which
that # is called Murdri, though Cap-
tain Burton supposes it to mean “ £
cock.” This alligator may be about
18 ft. long, and seldom or never leaves
the concealment of the pool, and is said
to be exceedingly savage and dangerous.
The rest are sluggish, and the feat of
running over them, and round and across
the pool has been performed," though
their terrible powers of destruction are
seen when a goat is given to them for
food, and is in a moment torn to shreds
by their£ iaws. About 10 m.
to the W. is the Hab River, in which
# are very numerous, and whence
no doubt the Magar Taláo was stocked,
and is replenished with these animals.
The visitor will call to mind the sacred
crocodiles of Egypt, and will see in the
veneration for the alligator here and at
some places in Malabar a curious coinci-
dence. It is probable that these crea-
tures derive their sanctity from the
place, being regarded as ikéral, like the
sparrows of the Branchian oracle.t.
About a quarter of a mile from the pool
is another hot spring, the water of
which is as hot as can be borne for
complete immersion. These hot springs,
like the phaenomena at Sonmiyâni,
50 m, further W., are attributable pro-
bably to volcanic action. A kariz, or
aqueduct, from the Pab Hills will be
observed on the way from the Magar
Pir to Karáchi.
Sonmiydní and Hingldj.—This place
is 50 m. 1 f distant from Karáchi, and
* For example, by the renowned tiger
killer, Lieut. Rice, of the 25th Bombay N. I.
t Herod. i. 159.
Pass well of good water,
30 ft. deep, 400 yds. to
r., up Burídah ravine...
Brackish well, called Kári
2 wells, 40ft. deep, 300
yds to r, up Chabheji
TâWIIle ..................... 1 5
DUDA..................... ... 1
Pass 3 brackish wells...... 1 1
3 good wells, 400 yds. to
l, called Oká ............ 6
x sandy bed of Indra, or
Windúr r................... 4
SONMIYANI
|
:
#
50 1
The character of the country to the
Hab River is the same as that described
on the way to the Alligator Tank. A
belt of tamarisk jungle extends a few
hundred yds, on each side of the river,
which, according to Captain Hart,"
ceases to be a stream in February,
though water is always found in pools.
The tombs near the Gandába Lakk,
* Bombay Selections, p. 323. The account of
this officer's '' is the one here followed.
It will be found, in the place referred to
above, and somewhat differently given in the
Proceedings gf the Bomb. Geo. Soc. for 1839,
under the title of “A Pilgrimage to Hingláj.”


~_
478
called by Hindus, Angdkherd Bheram
Lakk, are those of some soldiers of the
Jam of Bela and of N umria plunderers,
who were killed in mutual conflict about
30 years ago. The Buridah ravine,
called by Captain Hart the Bareed Luk,
presents a most singular appearance and
is formed by a hill having been detached
by some convulsion of nature from the
range, which is here about 200ft. in
perpendicular height. The pat-h leads
along the edge of a deep ravine, where
the rush of the stream has cut a channel
as even as if done by art. The sea is
not far off at this spot ; but further on,
the distance widens into a flat a mile
in breadth, covered with low tamarisk
'ungle and caper bushes. On this, in
ebruary, is a crop of grass, affording
excellent pasturage for the horses of the
traveller. To the left of the road, be-
fore reaching the Vindfrr river, are the
ruins of a small building, called Pir
Patta by Muhammadans, and Gropi-
chand Rajs by Hindus. Thence the
road lies over a barren plain and a
range of sand-hills, from the top of
which Sonmiyani is seen, “remarkable
only from the absence of all verdure
around it.” The town is situated at the
head of alarge shallow bay, like a horse-
shoe, into which vessels of any drau ht
cannot enter except at spnn ti es.
The entrance is narrow, and t e low
sand-banks bordcrin the harbor afford
little shelter. All oats but coasting
craft anchor outside the bar, 2 m. from
the town. The ancestors of the Jam of
Bela, in whose territory the fort is, are
said to have been Hindu Rajas con-
verted by the first Muslim invaders of
Sindh. Many Hindu festivals are till
observed in l11S family. Sonmiyani has
a population of about 2,000, chiefly
Numrias. The water is brackish. In
1808, the lace was burned by Arab
pirates. T ere are the remains of a
small fort, which, since the British army
destroyed the pirates of the Persian Gulf,
has never been repaired. The stages
from Sonmiyani to Hinglaj are, lst, to
a pool of fresh water at the edge of the
sand-hills which border the mangrove
swamp, called Guru olzela Ira’ Ran ; 2nd,
a range of sand-hills, with a small well of
noun: 25.—-imnécni ro aoni—soNMrriNi.

Sect. II.
brackish water beyond the Purali river.
3rd, Dambo; 4th, Kattewaya; 5th, The
Tilak Puri wells. Two m. to the \V.
of this are 3 hills of very light colored
earth rising abruptly from the plain.
That in the centre is 400 ft. high,
conical, with the apex flattened and dis-
colored. It joins one half the size by a
causewa about 50 paces long. Abasin
of liqui mud 100 paces round occupies
the centre of the highest. Jets of liquid
mud rise here incessantly to about 1 ft.
At times the rise is so high that the
mud overflows the hill, the entire coat
of which is slime baked hard by the sun.
The mud and water of all the pools is
salt. These basins are called“ Rama
Chandrakikup," “Rama’s wells.” The
legend is that Mahadeo, who had been
12 ears searching for Sita in vain, here
das ed down his vibhzkt, the mark of
ashes on his forehead, and it split into
18 pieces, and formed as many kzlps,
when Site. appeared in the form of Sin-i
Mdtd, “the divine mother," and in-
formed him that she had been with him
in all his wanderings in the shape of a
fly seated on his vibhrtt, and that, in
titude for his exertions, these'k\'1ps
should ever be the object of pil image.
Of the 18 kfips 7 are here an 11 are
spread over the mainland of Makran,
near the barren island called Sita Dwi ,
which is the farthest limit of Hin mi
worship. The Hindu ascetic, com-
mencing with this island and the temple
of Hinglaj, should roceed N. to the
fire temples of Jwala ukhi, near Lahfir
grahorg; thence to Haridwar and to
uru shetr, the plain round Delhi;
thence to Banaras, and to the temple at
the supposed confluence of the Gan 5.
and the Godavari in the heart of e
Gond country, and close the circle at
Rameshwaram, at the extreme S. of
India. He will then have completed
the entire round of Hindu pilgrimage ;
and having begun with Site and Bha-
vani at Sita Dwip and Hinglaj, willend
with Ramah and Bhavani at R£u:nesh-
waram and Cape Kumarin (Comorin).
The Hindu pilgrim to Hinglaj secures
first an A’gwa, or spiritual guide, to
instruct him where and how to worship
on the journey. The office of the A'gw§1


Bombay.
479
- I I I I
nonrn 25.—KABACK1 ro BORI--HINGLAJ.
, and even brahmans must
follow their directions. The Afigwas
alone ofliciate in the temple, and divide
the offerings at Hinglaj; but they are
subject to a chief, who is called the Pir,
or saint of the Hindus in Sindh, and
who furnishes each with a chhay-i, or
“ wand of office,” which he gives back
on his return. It is 2 ft. long, forked
at one end, and painted with red ochre.
The A’gwa carries it in his waistband,
fixes it in the ground as a signal for a.
halt, and lights a fire round it, with the
ashes of which each pilgrim smears his
forehead. The pil rims, as soon as they
have placed themse ves under an A’gwa,
ut on clothes of a brickdust color.
hey then start from the Ram Bagh, or
the temple of Kalikot, on the r. b. of
the r. beyond it, the A’ wa on all occa-
sions going first. The rst halt is made
at the Imli or Gorakli Tank, where
Ramah and Sita, having started from
the Ram Bagl_i with their A'gwa, Lallu
Jasraj, a hermit of the hot springs at
Magar Pir, first halted. Tonga Bheru
is the next halt, marked by a few pointed
stones, the site of a ruined temple, and
here offerings are made and prayers ro-
cited. The fourth halt is at a place
where Ramah is said to have been de-
feated when attempting to reach Hing-
laj with an army. He then turned back
and set out a second time, in the humble
guise of a pilgrim, as above mentioned.
Near this is a range of mountains called
Mor. The next place for special cere-
monies is the Kn s, where a cake of fine
flour, almonds an raisins, sugar, spices,
etc., called a ro_t, is offered to Ramah,
and cocoa nuts are thrown into the heav-
ing mud. Some fanatics have here
drowned themselves, and the body of
one of them is said to have been found
floating in the sea, which is supposed to
communicate with the Kfips. Twelve
miles from the Kiips is a hill called “ the
Sulphur Mountain,” abounding in that
mineral, and the hills between Lyari and
Bela are reported to be a mass of copper
ore. W. of the Kiips is a low quad-
rangular range of hills called the Sath
Darwazah, or “ 60 doors,” leading to
the sanctuaries of Shri Mata, esteemed
very holy ground. Here is a rock called
is hereditary

the G_hura'b-2' sang, or “stone ship,"
where the vessel of an inipious merchant
was turned into stone. After leaving
the Kiips the road lies through a tract
called the Sfinwal, in which are many
ndlds, their beds lined with tamarisk
and babal jungle. Here the pilgrims
are paired off, and told to regard each
other as brothers and sisters. They eat
from each others’ hands, and then roll
down a sandbank to ether. The road
then runs nearly para lel to the Hara or
Hala mountains, and a range towering
far above them is now seen, in which is
the far-famed temple of Hinglaj. Be-
fore reaching this the Aghor river is
crossed, to drink of which is esteemed a
blessing. The view here is magnificent.
The river flows through a orge 200 yds.
in width, overhung by Tire en crags.
Be ond is a range of light colored sand-
hil s, and towering over them the blue
mountains of Hinglaj precipitous and
wild. A square peak like a pillar among
them is pointed out as the A's¢m, or seat
of the goddess, where she dries her hair
after her ablutious ; and two other hills
are called Jay and Vi/ay, fabled to be
the janitors of Indra’s heaven, meta-
morphosed for ne lect of their duties.
Under the hill o Vzjay is the usual
place of encampment, and here the
Aghor river is about 60 yds. broad, and
6 m. from this it enters the sea. At
this halt the ilgrims shave off every
hair on the bo y exce t a single tuft on
the crown of the head? The road then
lies along the Z. b. of the Aghor, which,
after leaving the hill of Vi_]ay, is called
the Hingul, “verniilion,” for a mile,
and then timis ofi‘ to a range of sandhills
called Dewalgarli (Dowlagarh). These
are 400 ft. high, and are covered with
numberless conical, ribbed, light brown
peaks. Before reaching them worship
is performed to Ganesh, the infant. The
path then leads up a ravine and over
several hills, where offerings of needles
and thread are made in front of a stone
called “Bhera’s needle,” and of betel
before other two called Manalid and
Mamyd Devi. A plain to the N .E. is
then crossed, about a mile in length,
when the river is again reached and
crossed at a spot where it flows on each


~_
480
side of a small island. Here is a monu-
tain whose face towards the stream rises
1000 ft. in one sheer precipice. To its
right the path turns up a ndlci, in which
is a rock split in two, beyond which
Ganesh, the adult, is worshipped; and
2 m. further a stone marks the cell of
the goddess here called A’aha'p12ra,
“wish fulfiller,” through which flows a
stream. Not far from this, along the
course of the stream, is a gorge only
20 ft. broad and half a mile long. On
each side huge erpendicular cliffs almost
exclude the lig t of day. A short dis-
tance from its entrance is a low natural
cave 30 ft. in width and 10 deep where
male oats, without blemish, are offered
to Ka i, and the blood and ardent spirits
are dashed upon the rock. Beyond this,
a quarter of a mile, is the cave of Hing-
la_'/'. It is larger but of similar shape to
that of Kali. At its W. end a mud
temple 20 ft. long and 12 deep, under a
ppojecting rock, contains the efligy of
inglaj. On the E. side, a few steps
lead to two rooms, where singing and
music go on. Between them and the
rock is a doorway leading to the efligy,
an oblong stone within a railed space,
in size and shape like a small Muham-
madan tombstone, raised and hollowed
at each end to hold the sacred fire. At
its foot a conical stone 12 in. high is
called Sadashiva. Both are colored with
red ochre, as is the arch of the rook
above. From this, perhaps, the place
has its name from the Skr. hingul,
“verrnilion," and laksh, “to paint.”
The whole stands on an earthen plat-
form, between which and the rock is a
narrow arched passage, through which
a man can scarcely crawl. This is called
the Shara, and every pilgrim must pass
it on his hands and knees. In front of
the cave the stream forms a pool, oppo-
site which is a lar e rock called the
0'hho_ti Uhaurdsi. ear the summit of
the opposite mountain in a small cave,
circular patches of red ochre represent
the sun, moon, and stars, said to have
been painted by Rarnah. No one is
permitted to remain at the temple more
than one night. At midni ht all the
women and children are ma e to bathe
in the pool, and with scarce any clothes
ROUTE 25.—x,u1,ici1i ro noRi—niNor,s'J.

Sect. II.
on go into the building, from which all
men but the Agwas are excluded. All
their ornaments are then taken oif, and
they are sent two by two, the ri ht hand
of one sister being placed on t e leg of
the other, on their hands and knees into
the narrow opening of the rock under the
platform. On coming out on the opposite
side they again bathe and then resume
their clothes. The men in pairs then
follow. This is called the Shara Hing-
ldi, and is a sort of ba tism. At da -
light the pilgrims crow into the temp e
and repeat certain prayers, after which
necklaces of Tnmra beads, made of a.
small white stone, found at the hill of
Makalla, near 'I‘hat_I_:ha, are hung round
their necks. An ascent into the moun-
tains to the Great Chaurdsi concludes
the pilgrimage. A narrow path leads
up a defile to the right, and ascends the
diflicult bed of a torrent. It passes a
cave called Gorakh 7711' Gzqahd, where a
famous ascetic resided, and in it every
pilgrim leaves a stick. About 2 m. from
this is a low building called the Dharam-
sala of Nanak, and half a mile from this
is “the pilgrim’s well,” 15 yds. in dia-
meter, formcd b a cascade, and divided
by a wall of roc , in which is a natural
archway. The sides are perpendicular,
and the level of the water about 20 ft.
below the edge of the fall. The well is
veriy cold, and said to be unfathomable,
an into this all pilgrims must jump.
A small plant growing in the crevices of
the rock, called the Raj Hans, is much
sought for here. Its leaves must be
gathered with the lips, or, if possible,
with the eyelids. Abed of rushes hides
the stream after it leaves the basin, and
a short distance beyond a perpendicular
wall of sandstone marks the limit of the
pilgrimage.
he journey to Ijlaidarabad and Rori
may be made in the steamer starting from
Gisri Creek, and if celerity be the at
object, this mode of travelling w'l be
best; but if the tourist would really see
Sindh, let him go by land, and descend
by the steamer. He will have to en-
counter, except from the 1st of December
to the lst of March, intense heat, and the
risk of fever is not slight. Karachi is
a healthy place in general, though it


Bombay.
481
xourn 25.—Ksn.iorri T0 noni—r1nr'r1u'..
suffers eriodicall from fearful visita-
tions o cholera; ut the climate up the
river cannot be called salubrious, except
to the Bilfich. Dust, or rather fine
sand, with which the air is loaded, and
intense glare are also evils that must be
encountered, and spectacles of a neutral
tint and a gauze veil may here be
brought into requisition.
Jam'ada'r ki Ldndi is so called from
a. native ofiicial, who built a mud tower
on the spot many years ago. A pole
on the summit of a hill 111 this first
stage used to mark the spot where a
Sindhi was executed for the murder of
an English oflicer.
(b) G'ha'ra'.—Between Karachi and
Thattha the onl object of interest is
the ruined city 0 Bambhfira, or Bham-
bora, suppose by the natives to be the
site of the most ancient seaport in
Sindh. It may be visited from this
stage. Nothing remains but the founda~
tions of houses, bastions, and walls ; but
the antiquarian excavator would proba-
bly meet with many relics to reward his
search.
(0) _Tha_t_!ha' (Tatta), called by the na-
tives, Nagar Thattha. Travellers by
steamer, landing at Thattha, will find
no conveyance unless it be previously
ordered through the Deputy-Collector of
Jarrak. There is a good traveller’s ‘ban-
la at Thattha, and well situated for the
arachi Route, N. of the town, but if
coming from the steamer, the traveller
will have to go right through the town to
it. The city is situated 3 n1. W. of the
right, or W. bank of the Indus, and 4 m.
above the point where the Baghar or W.
and the Sata or E. branch of the great
river diverge, and is therefore at the very
a x of the Delta. Thnttha has been
t ought by some to be the ancient Pat-
tala; but there is little to prove the
identity, except a fancied similarity of
name, owing to its being misspelt Tatta.
The three gutturals which really exist in
the word could hardly be softened as in
Pattala, and the name is probably not
very ancient, and comes rom _Tha_th,
“ the shore,” the city having been
originally on the bank of the Indus.
Thatthé. is said to have contained some
centuries ago nearly 300,000 inhabi-
tents, and Lieut. Burnes afiirms that it
had once a circuit of 30 m. ; but Lieut.
Wood, with more robability, supposes
that the ruins whic surround the pre-
sent town, and extend from Pir Patta,
10 m. S. of it, to Sami Nagar, 3 m.
N. W., are the remains of successive
cities built and deserted as the river
changed its course. The city was built,
according to Macmurdo, in l 522, and now
contains a population of about 10,000.
The most remarkable sights at That-
tha are the .Tum’aah Jllaefid, or Grand
Mosque; the manufactures of silk lungis
and stamped cottons; the Residency
where Mr. John Crowe resided, and his
tomb ; the tombs at the Makkali Hill;
Pir Patten and Kalyan Kot_. The
Grand Masque is situated near the centre
of the town. It was begun by Shah
Jahim, in 1057 A.H., = 1647 A.D., and
was finished by Auran zib, in 1072 A-1-X.
= 1661 A.n.* It has namagnificent
edifice, but is now much decayed; is
about 200 yds. long by 100 yds. broad,
and is built of baked bricks and mortar.
The inner laster is glazed in blue and
white, whic has a beautiful appearance
when fresh. The roof is surmounted by
100 domes, each painted in a different
way. The inscriptions carved round
the great stone arch, and those upon
the two stones on which the date of the
edifice is iven, are admirably executed
in lar e etters. Not far from this is
the ol house inhabited by Mr. Crowe,
the first Resident in Sindh deputed b '
the British Government. His tom
may also be seen outside the walls. The
Makdlli Hill_ is situate about a mile
and a half to the W. of the town. The
range runs from W. to N., bein 8 m.
long and under a mile broa . Its
average height is 55 ft. According to
Lutfullah, the name is derived from a
fishwoman, whose shop was there in
days of yore; but Captain Burton sup-
poses it to mean Makkah-like, and to be
so termed to denote its peculiar sanctity.
The area of this vast cemetery is said to
be 6 sq. m., and to contain a million
graves, the custom of Muljiammadans
reguiring that all tombs shall be single,
an that none be re-opened to receive
* Autobiography QfLut/’ullah, p.


Bombay.
483
I I I I I
noun: 25.-—KA‘B.ACHI ro ROBI—1_IAIDAB.ABAD-
revéted with kiln-burnt brick, which
break the line of the outer curtain, are
within easy bow-shot of one another.
The mceinte contains a vast tarre plsine,
in the form of a parallelogram, in
obtaining earth for which the large tank
below the ruins was probably excavated.
Within are masses of masonry shaken
by time or earthquakes into fantastic
shapes, resemblin at a distance huge
red rocks ; moun s of clay and chopped
straw used in this country as laster; a
few ruined walls and a dome tomb, in
which many pigeons make their nests.
The old cemetery near Thattha, called
Pir Pan'ah, has never been worthily
describe . Some account of the repre-
sentatives of the ancient familes at
Thattha is also a desideratum. Thus
$abir ’Ali Shah is the hereditary Saiyid
of the Grand Mosque, and holds a
grant from Akbar for the support of
this building, which grant has been
confirmed by Mr. Frere.
(d) JarraIc.—Those who steam up
the river from Thattha to Jarrak when
the Indus is in flood, behold a magnifi-
cent sight. The monarch of Indian
rivers then pours down with a strength
and velocity which it is truly grand to
witness. The large native barges which
are tracked up ainst the current some-
times break ' t, and are whirled like
feathers down the stream, perhaps to
be wrecked on some shoal, or dashed on
the opposite bank. In some places vio-
lent e dies are formed, in others Zahara
or rapids, with which nothing but steam
can contend. The banks are lined with
the dense woods, which were once the
Shikdrgdhs, or hunting preserves of the
Amirs, and which, being a barrier to
the encroachments of the desert sand,
and productive and retentive of mois-
ture, were of infinite service to the
country. The land route presents
nothing remarkable. Jarrak itself is
the first town the traveller in Sindh
encounters not built on the alluvial flat
formed by the Indus. It occupies the
summit of an irregular height, which
rejects into the river and forms a
arrier to it against its encroachments
westward. This was the station of the
Camel corps raised by Sir C. Napier,

and subsequently disbanded by Govern-
ment, on account of its enormous ex-
pense. Here Age Khan, a Persian
nobleman and lineal descendant of the
Ism’ailiyah chiefs, was placed as com-
mandant after the battle of Miyani by
the conqueror, and after giving exces-
sive umbrage to the surrounding opu-
lation, was attacked by the Bi Cichis
and driven out of the place.‘ At J arrak,
Lower Sindh terminates, and \Vichelo,
or Middle Sindh, commences. Some
ruins may be seen here, and have not
been as yet properl described.
(e) Haidardbdd Hydrabad), formerly
called Nirankog, “\Vater-fort," or “the
fort of Niran,” is the capital of Sindh,
and has a population of about 25,000
inhabitants. It is situated 4 m. E. of
the E. bank of the Indus, on a hi h
part of the rocky ridge, called t c
Ganjah Hills, in an island formed b
the Indus and the Phuleli, a brane
which, leaving the main stream
12 m. above the town, rejoins it 15 m.
below.
On the opposite side of the river to
Haidarabad is Kotru, where there is a
good traveller's bangle with a messman
and supplies. Here too are the head
quarters of the Indus flotilla, com-
manded by a captain of the I. Navy,
and an extensive arsenal. Kotru is a
very pretty station with several roads
planted with trees leading from it. A
church has been built by voluntary sub-
scriptions, and the clergyman is paid
partly by the additional Clergy Fund,
partly by the subscriptions of the eon-
gregation. The routes from Kotru to
Haidarfibad are two. The more direct
is to cross to Giddu Bandar, where
there is a dietty, and then proceed to
Haidarfiba , 3 m., by the Bellasis road.
The other is to drop down the river to
the Entrenched Oamp, where, on the
15th of February, 1843, Major Outram,
with the Light Company of H. M.
22nd Regt., commanded by Capt. Con-
way, gallantly defended himself for 4
hours against the attacks of alarge body
of Biliichis, and, on his ammunition
failing, retired in good order to the
Planet and Satellite steamers, which
_ ' Burton’: Sindh, vol. 1., p. 190.


. , , , ,
486
its silver tissues. The fabric of Ltair
Muhammad is the most celebrated. _He
gained a medal at the London Exhibi-
tion of 1851, and another at the Paris
Exhibition of 1856. There are four or
five other famous fabricauts, each work-
ing with a different stitch. A table-
cover costs from 50 to 100 rupees,
according to size; chair-covers from
25 to 40 rupees. Book-covers, slippers,
etc., are made of endless varieties. All
these are worked on a simple wood
frame, similar to that used by ladies for
Worsted work. 1?/'namclr'ng.—In the
Amirs' time there was a great demand
for this manufacture, the principal
Sardars vieing with each other in the
beauty and costliness of their swords,
matchlocks, and horse-trappings, which
were profusel decorated with enameled
ornaments. n enameling on gold, the
colors red and crimson are chiefly used,
and blue and green are the favorite
colors with silver. This trade is now
on the decline, as is also that of manu-
facturing arms. Haidarabad was re-
nowned for its sword blades and match-
lock barrels, but there are now only one
or two families who work in this line.
Seal Engraving is a business of great
importance in the East, where the Per-
sians and the artizans of Delhi are cele-
brated for their skill in this craft. At
Haidarabad, Fa_zl ’Ali Vingirr is the
best engraver. He works on carnelian,
silver and other metals, enerally in the
Persian or Arabic c aracter. He
obtained a medal for his seals at the
Exhibition of 1851. A small seal, with
the purchasers name in Persian,
mounted on a handle of enamel-work,
is a good memento of Haidarabad, as
combining two of its most noted manu-
factures. Lacquered-work is admirably
executed at Haidarabad, but will be
described under Halt, where it is even
better done. A visit to Ijaidarabad
will not be complete without inspecting
the Barracks, which arc, perhaps, the
finest in India, and cost nearly
£100,000. The are built entirely of
burnt bricks, wit a tiled roof, the worst
materials to use in a climate like that
of Sindh. Intolerably hot in the hot
waion, they are very cold in the winter.
nouns 25.—KAB.ACHI rro RORI-—MIB.IPU.R.
Sect. II.
The hospital is a palace in a pearance
and size, but so lll adapte to the
climate, that the medical oflicer in
charge, with pankhds and every appli-
ance for reducing the heat, is unable to
keep the temperature below 100° for the
greater part of the hot season. In
short this magnificent and costly struc-
ture is worse than useless, and is justly
entitled to the name of Sir C. Na ier’s
Folly. A Church is now being uilt.
Hitherto Divine Service has been er-
formed in one of the rooms in the ort.
The Roman Catholics have had a church
at Haidarabad from the time of the
con nest; but 12 years elapsed without
the oundation-stone of a place of Pro-
testant worship being laid by the
Government of Sindh. If the traveller
has time, he should drive or ride down
the Bellasio Road, along the bank of the
river, and up b the entrenched camp
to the Bandar Igoad Avenue, which is
one of the most beautiful avenues in
India. The Bellasis Road was made
and planted by Mr. A. F. Bellasis, late
Collector and Magistrate of Haida!‘-
abad.
Route from Haidarabad to ‘Umrkot.
—l-laidarabtrd to Alléhyar ka Tanda
6., 24 m. The town is large, with a good
bazar, and the merchants of this place
carry on a considerable trade direct with
Bomba .
All yar kt. Tanda to Mirpfir, 18 m.
Here there is a large mud fort, formerl
the residence of Mir Shir Muhamma
and his brothers. It is now converted
into the Kardar-’s Kacheri, treasury,
police lines, and district jail. Mirpfir
is the head quarters of the Deputy-
Collector, who has a good bangla and
garden here.
Mir Shir Muhammad, whom Sir C.
Napier st ‘led the Lion of Sindh, still
lives at irpiir. He was the last of
the Amirs who fou ht in defence of
his country, and the t to retm-n to it
from exile. It was he who fou ht with,
and was defeated by Colone Jacob,
C.B., at Shahdadpfir in 1843, and
directly the Governor-General's permis-
sion was given to the Amirs of Sindh
to return to their country, he was the
first to avail himself of that act of grace.


Bombay.
487
r I I I I I
ROUTE 2d.—*KARACH.[ T0 BORI—'MIYANI.
He draws a considerable ension, as do
his two brothers, Mir Sha Muhammad
and Qian Muhammad, who live at
Allahyar ka Tanda; and each of the
brothers was allowed a liberal grant of
money to build a house and to make him-
self comfortable. Mir Shir Muham-
mad has, however, no reliance on Eng-
lish faith, and prefers to live in awretched
hut and tent; he is, however, greatly
respected, and looks completely what he
is, a patriot and a hero.
From Mirpiir to ’Umrkot_ is a long
march of nearly 40 m.
’ Um:-It-of or Amirkot (Omercote,
Oomercote, Amercot of Elphinst.one).—
At this town in the desert there is a
large mud fort, which, like that of Mir-
pur, has been converted into public
oflices. The fort is 500 ft. square, with
a mud wall 40 ft. high, a strong round
tower at each corner, and 6 square
towers on each side. It contains a
massive circular tower in the centre,
similar to the one in the Haidariibad
fort. There is a banglti, and from
hence there are routes to Jaysalmir, to
Bélmir, to Islamkot, and Virawao; but
these are all desert routes, without any
bangliis or other conveniences for tra-
vellers, and are consequently little fre-
quented. ’Umrkot_ is renowned as the
birth-place of the Emperor Akbar, the
reatest monarch that India ever pro-
guced. His father, Huma '1ll1, flyin
from the successful rebel, %lllI', foun
at ’Umi-kot a friend and protector in
Rana Praséd, the Rajpfit chief. And
here, on the 14th of October, 1542, the
Empress Hamidah, a native of J em in
Igurasan, gave birth to Akbar. It is
usual on such occasions for the father to
givc presents to his friends; Huma fin
had nought to give but one po of
musk, which he distributed with the
rayer that his son's fame might be
'fi'used like the odor of the musk, a
pra er which was granted a thousand
foldy. The Talpfirs won back ’Umrkot_
from the Riija of J odhpiir in 1813, and
in April the 3rd, 1843, it surrendered to
Captain Edmund Brown, of the Bengal
-Engineers, deputed by Sir C. Napier to
obtain possession of it.
(f) Miydni (Meanee or Mceanee).-—
A lan of this celebrated battle-field,
an the only correct account of the
battle itself, carefully written by General
Waddington, C.B., the engineer ofiicer
so justly praised by Sir C. Napier, will
be found in the Appendix to “Dry
Leaves from Young Egypt?‘ The
events which receded the engagement,
may also be llearned from that book,
shorn of the ridiculous exaggerations
and misrepresentations in w ich the
have been involved. The aged an
helpless Mir Rustam having been driven
from his dominions by the intri ues and
violence of his younger brot er and
feudal subject, Mir ‘Ali Muréid, en-
couraged and aided first by Mr. Ross
Bell, and subse uently by Sir C. Napier,
took refuge wit the Amirs of Haida!‘-
shad, on whom an unjust treaty was
being forced by the English Government.
In consequence of this aggressive atti-
tude on the part of the General, the
Bilfichi Chiefs assembled their retainers
at Haidarébad, and Sir O. Napier
moved down upon the city from Emir-
fir with all the forces he could collect.
ending Captain Jacob with the Sindh
Horse along the skirts of the desert, on
the E., he himself, with about 3,000
men, marched on Haidarabéul by tho
main road. The Amirs, however,
signed the treaty imposed upon them,
on the 11th of February, and Major
Outram, the political officer deputed to
them, energetically protested against
the injustice of further ag essive move-
ments on the part of Sir . Napier. In
spite of these remonstrances, that oflicer
continued his march, and on the after-
noon of the 16th of February, 1843,
encamped at Mattari, 17 m. N. of
Haidarabad, after a fatiguing march of
21 m. from Ham. Here he was joined
by Major Outram, who, in consequence
of the advance of Sir C. Napier after
the treat had been signed, was attacked
bly the iliichis under Mir Shahdad,
e dest son of the late Mir N fir Muham-
mad, and compelled to quit the Resi-
denc . Major Outram brought the
inte ' ence that the Biliichis had occu-
pied t e shikdrgdlis, between Mattéri
and Haidarabad, in great force. An
1 p. 846.


Bombay.
489
RouTE 25.—KARACHí To RORí—MIYANí.
but the Biláchis maintained a heavy
fire of matchlocks, and as the
22nd neared the steep bank of
the Phuleli, the Bilüchis threw aside
their fire-arms and rushed furiously on
them, sword in hand. In its turn, the
25th N. I. became similarly engaged,
and then the 12th and the Grenadiers.
The 12th were three times driven back,
and as often nobly rallied by their officers.
Brigadier-Major Jackson of that corps,
dismounting, cheered on the men, and
rushed, supported by two havaldárs,
into the thick of the enemy, where all
three were cut to pieces. Major Teas-
dale, commanding the 25th, was killed
while animating his men, who gave
und in an alarming manner. The
renadiers, driven back with the 25th,
fell into confusion, and on their com-
manding officer giving the word to re-
tire, went to the right-about and took
no further share in the action. Lieut.-
Colonel Pennefather, commanding the
22nd, was shot through the body, and
Major Poole succeeded to that com-
mand. It was at this critical moment
that an advance of the English cavalry
decided the day. The Grenadiers, as
has been said, had been put into confu-
sion on the English left flank, had gone
to the right-about, and retired some dis-
tance before they could be halted by
their officers. At the same time the
Bilüchis showed themselves in numbers
from the concealed village and the ra-
vines in that direction; and had they
been suffered to take the regiments
which still maintained their ground in
flank, the day would probably have
ended doubtfully for both parties. But
at the urgent representation of Captain
Tucker, of the 9th Cavalry, Lieut.-
Colonel Pattle of that regiment per-
mitted the cavalry to act. Captain
Tucker then, with the 3rd squadron,
passing between the infantry and the
village, charged the Bilachís, and drove
them into and along the bed of the
Phulelí. Then that gallant officer re-
ceived six wounds and fell, but Captain
Bazett succeeding him, completed the
dispersion of the enemy in that direction.
The 2nd squadron, under Captain Gar-
ratt, assisted Colonel Pattle in an attack
on the village, and the 1st, filing, be-
tween the 12th N. I. and the Grenadiers,
crossed the Phulelí and dispersed the
enemy on the opposite bank. Here
Captain Cookson, the Adjutant, was
killed and three officers were wounded.
The Sindh Horse, after vainly attempt-
ing to get round the outside of the
village, being stopped by a deep canal,
crossed the £ '' captured the
enemy's camp, from which they drove a
heavy body of the enemy's cavalry;
£ Captain Jacob had his horse
killed under him, and some loss was
experienced. Sir C. Napier meantime
had, with great gallantry, cheered on
the infantry, and at half-past one, a.m.,
the line crossed the Phuleli, when the
battle may be said to have been won,
though the firing did not cease for some
hours afterwards. The General formed
his camp on the field, with the baggage
in the centre of a hollow square, and
the troops slept on their arms, . The
total loss of the English was 62 killed
and 194 wounded, of whom 6 officers
were killed and 13 wounded. The
enemy lost all their guns, 15 in number,
and 800 killed, with about as £
wounded. This proportion is explaine
by the fact that the Bilachis neither
asked nor received quarter. Such was
the memorable battle of Miyání, which
transferred Sindh to the British. The
Bilachis fought more courageously than
could have £ expected, seeing that
they had almost always shown them-
selves inferior even to the Afghāns; but
they had no discipline, and bands of
20 men rushed out at a time with no
order or method, only to impale them-
selves on the bayonet or to be swept
away by grape. Their guns were
wretched six-pounders, and were served
so inefficiently as to occasion no loss,
and the Amirs themselves took little or
no part in a struggle which they knew
to be hopeless. It must be remarked
too that even Shāh Shuj'a's rabble had
defeated the Amirs of Upper Sindh at
Sakar ten years before, with little diffi-
culty, and with still greater slaughter,
than was inflicted on the Bilüchís at
Miyani; so that it will rather be matter
of surprise that so large a force of disci-


~_
490
plined troo s should have suffered so
much in ispersing what was little
better than a vast mob. On the two
following mornings six of the principal
Amirs surrendered, and on the 21st
Haidarabad was taken possession of,
and the property of all the Amirs and
chiefs seized, even that of Mirs Sobdar
and Husain ’Ali, whom Sir C. Napier
himself designates as allies, and who
had nothing whatever to do with the
battle.* The whole Talpfir famil ,with
the one exception of ’Ali Mura , were
stripped of everything, and either sent
prisoners to India or left to starve where
the had reigned as princes. The battle
of abba, a place 6 m. N. E. of Hai-
darabad, fought on the 24th of March
of the same year, concluded the war.
The Bilfichis on this occasion were pro-
bably almost as numerous as at Miyani,
but their loss was much heavier. The
English lost 267 killed and wounded,
includin two officers killed and 10
wounde . There is a lofty stone obe-
lisk at Miyani on the spot where all
the ofiicers and men who fell were
interred in one common grave, but it is
without an inscription. Sir G. Napier is
supposed to have written one, but it
has never been found, and no one else
has taken upon himself to pen one.
Matldri is a very old, but miserable
town. The Saiyids of Mattari, who cul-
tivate the lands in this district on a very
favorable tenure, are litigious and trou-
blesome, and often uncivil to travellers.
(g) Hdld is a lar e town, and the
head quarters of a eputy-Collector.
The bangla is good, but off the high
road. The J um’aah Masjid here is well
worth a visit. It is faced with glazed
tiles of various colors and patterns, and
when seen at a little distance has a most
gorgeous effect. Héla is famous for
the manufacture of glazed tiles, and
the mud or clay of the locality is of a
fine quality, almost of the consistency of
plaster of Paris. The manufacture of
these tiles was formerly very extensive,
as most of the mosques and tombs
through Sindh testify ; but the trade is
now, from want of a demand, decaying.
Besides tiles, they make latticed win-
‘ We Qfsir C‘. Napier, vol, 1i., p. 318.
acorn 25.—xsaioni T0 noRi—n.§L.i.
Sect. II.
dows, vases, dishes, covers, and orna-
ments in reat variety. The process of
the man acture is worth examination.
Hala is also noted for its lacquered
work, of which they make work-boxes,
cigar cases, tables, rulers, pen cases,
map cases, vases, flower stands, etc.
The wood used is the bahu, which turns
ver readily in the lathe. The process
of ac uering is by applying different
colore sealing-wax or lac on the surface,
while the box is turning round ra idly
on the lathe. First yellow is lai on,
then red, then green, and so on. After-
wards, the man, holding the box between
his toes, with thegreatest nicet of touch
cuts through with a sharp ni.fe the
different depths or layers of color, and
thus produces all sorts of patterns.
Two miles off the road from Hala is
old Hala, and the ruins of Khudabad,
which areworth visiting, if there be time.
If the traveller is desirous to visit the
ancient and ruined city of Bral1ma.né.-
bad, Hale is the best place whence to
diverge to see it.
From Héla to Shahdadpfir is 20 m.
Here there is a Bangle, with a most
uaint fireplace, of native construction.
ere, also, in the low ground, just
behind the bangla, Col. J. Jacob, C.B.,
fou ht and defeated Mir Shir Muham-
ma , in 1843, since which date a hostile
shot has not been fired in Sindh.
From Shahdadpfir to Brahmanabad
is between nine miles. A tent should
be taken.
Bra'hmana’ba'd,*calledinmodern Sindhi
Bambhra ke T121, “the ruined tower,"
was undoubtedly one of the most ancient
cities in Sindh, and, according to Saiyid
Sabir ’Ali Shah, a leamed Saiyid of
Thattha, and the lineal descendant of
the author of a history of Sindh, called
the Tu/¢fatu’l Kira'm,1~ was founded be-
fore the Brahman dynast that reigned at
Alor, and consequently efore A.D. 622.
In the TuI2fa'tu’l Kirdm, Chach, the first
Brahman King of Sindh is said to have
subdued the Chief of Brahmanabad.
According to the same authority, the
»¢J.‘1§y”°XT‘§?§_’Li‘{?.€i2?iZ~‘§.’§.,”f;’€,’m _'T'{€‘~,~.”‘“""
1' A translation of this work wil be found

£1; the A0. Soc. Q1‘ Beng., vol. xiv.,


Bombay.
491
nourn 25.—xAa,icni I0 aoai——noni.
city was ruined before .\.1>. 1020. The
Ohcvlmdmah, which was written in
Arabic about A.D. 700, mentions Brah-
manab-Zid as the capital city of Lower
Sindh. The place was first visited by
Mr. Frere and Mr. A. F. Bellasis, in
1854. It is at present a labyrinth of
ruins, forming irregular mounds, vary-
ing according to the size of the houses,
and in circumference it is 4 m. At ll
m. distance is the distinct and ruined
city of Dolora, the residence of the king,
and 5 m. in another direction is Dipiir,
also in ruins, where the Vazir resided.
Between these cities_are the ruins of
suburbs, extending for miles far and
wide. There is the stereotyped legend
as to the destruction of the cit , that
‘it was overthrown for the wic edness
and debauchery of its king.‘ Several
reasons are given for believing the
destruction o the city to have been
caused by an earthquake. The skele-
tons of the inhabitants are found in
crouching attitudes, crushed under the
walls and doorways, as though in the
attempt to fly. These skeletons are not
of bodies that have been buried, for
they are in every kind of attitude, and
few in a recumbent posture. Coins and
valuables are found in great numbers,
in the houses, which would not have
been left by an invading army. The
furniture of the houses is all intact, and
it is evident that the inhabitants were
engaged in their usual avocations when
some sudden calamity overwhelmed
them. The city was well and strongly
built, the walls of the common houses
even being from 18 in. to 3 ft. thick,
and nothing but an earthquake could
have caused so complete an overthrow.
The Indus is shown by tradition, and
the dry bed still visible, to have washed
the walls of the city, and itis reasonable
to believe that the same shock which
overthrew the city diverted the stream
to its present course. For a full account
of this most singular lace the reader is
referred to the pamp lst of Mr. A. F.
* It is remarkable that the same legend,
which is not very different from w_h_a.t we are
told of the_ overthrow or the Cities of the
Plain in Scnpture, is narrated of the destruc-
tion of Alor, Brahmanabad and the ruined
city between Karachi and 'l‘hat_l_h$.

Bellasis. It will be sufficient here to
mention a few of the relics discovered.
The most curious of them is, perhaps,
a hexagonal cylinder, with an inscrip-
tion in Kiifik characters on three sides.
An almost complete set of ivory chess-
men was also disinter-red, together with
many figures beautifully carved in ivory,
numerous coins, en vcd seals of agate
and carnelian, and ' king vessels.
From Brahmanabad the adventurous
traveller can proceed, vid Sanjora and
Jakkrau, to l’m£inga1_rh, the desert fort
of Mfr ’Ali Murad, and thence on
to Rori or Sabzalkot; but this is a
very unfrcqucnted route. For the
general traveller, it would be best, after
visiting the ruins of Brahmanabad, to
return to Shahdadpfzr, and then strike
the high road again at Saiyidabad.
From Saiyidabad the nearest road is
on to Sakkrand, where there is good
duck and snipe shooting; but parts of
this road are so low that, during the
inundation and some months afterwards,
it is impassable, and therefore it is
necessar to go round by Dereh Dalil,
where t ere is a large circular mud
fort built by Mir Nur Muhammad.
The road then passes by Kaji ka Got
and Daulatpiir to N awsh ahra. l\ awsh ahra
is a good-sized native town, where they
manufacture the coarse kinds of paper,
upon which the native correspondence
is usually written. Ten miles ofl“ the
road from Nawshahra is Taru Shah, the
head quarters of a Deputy Collector.
At Hallani is the last Government
bangle; a few miles further the tra-
veller crosses the British boundary at a
village called Kotri, and enters the
territories of Mir ’Ali Murad. The
road is without much interest on to
Rori. The sportsman should endeavor
to obtain his Highness’ permission to
shoot in his shikargahs, which are full
of hog and small deer; in fact, many
villa cs have been laid waste to gratify
his I§ighness’ love of the chase.
(h) Ron’ or Lo/tri (Roree). —This
town, built on a rocky eminence over-
looking the Indus, is interesting from
its situation, for here the river rushes
with a rapid sweep round the island of
Bakar, which has therefore been rc-


492
Sect. II.
nourn 25.—Kmic1ri T0 noni—noai.
gardcd by Asiatics as an impregnable
position. The great de th of the stream,
too, and the thick ate groves that
clothe the banks, the hills and ancient
buildings render this one of the most
remarkable localities on the Indus. It
has been the general thoroughfare for
invading armies, whether Afghan de--
scending upon India, or Indian, such as
the expeditions of Shah Shu"a, ad-
vancing into Afghanistan. he rock
on which Rori is built terminates
abruptly on the W. side, in a precipice
of 40 ft., and up this the Indus rises in
the inundation 16 ft. above its ordinary
level. It then runs with a rapidity
exceeding 7 m. an hour, and forms vio-
lent eddies, in which large boats are
sometimes overturned and sunk. The
breadth of the stream opposite Rori is
about 1200 yds. There are 4 rocky
islets in it,--1, the island of Bakar,
“dawn,” so called by a Saiyid of note
shortly after the Muhammadan con-
quests of Sindh ; 2, Sati, between Bakar
and Rori, a very small islet in which
are some ver old tombs ; * 3, the isle of
Ifiivyajah K_iz.r, or “Saint Elias,” a
little N. of Bakar; and 4, Navy-wood
Island, a few hundred yards S. of Bakar.
In the island of Qwajahft 1Qizr is a
masjid, whose appaearancc bespeaks an-
tiquity. In this uilding is the follow-
ing incription :—
" When this Court was raised, be it known,
That the waters of lgiar surrounded it.”
" §hi_zr wrote this in pleasing verse.
Its date is found from the Court of God.
341s.u.
If this date 341 A.H. be correct, the
masjid was erected in the year 952 A.D.,
about 250 ears after the Muhammadan
invasion 0 India.
The most curious fact, however, con-
nected with this locality is, that a
building is still visible in the centre of
the stream, a little below Navy-wood
" The inscriptions at Rorl and Bakar and an
account of the ancient nit of Alor will be
found in Dru Leaves from
ouna E01/pt, pp.
37——46.
T Dry Leaves, p. 39.
Island; and this, coupled with old tra-
dition and the inscription in the isle of
lfiivyajah lihizr, shows that the Indus
has within historical times deserted a
former channel and taken its present
course. In the Chaohndmah this change
is said to have taken place in conse-
quence of the wickedness of the Rajé of
Alor, and a story is told similar to that
recounted of the overthrow of Brahman-
abad. The ride to Alor will repay the
traveller. The distance is but 5 m.
N.E. and the ruins are curious, if only
for the historical renown of the place.
After crossing an ancient bridge you
come upon a small villa containing
about 60 inhabitants, o whom two-
thirds are Mfisliman and the rest
Hindus. The find a sale for the pro-
duce of their arms among the votaries
of Shakar Gan' Shah, a renowned saint
who is buried ere. From this
an extensive ridge of ruins is to e
traced in a N.E. direction. In this
huge congeries there is no inscription
to be found, or anything worthy“ of
notice, except a picturesque ruin w 'ch
bears the name of ’A’lam ir’s Mas'id,
and two tombs of Sai ' ,—Sha ar
Gan' Shah and Klialifa I_(u_t,bu’d-din
Sha . The tomb of the former is a
celebrated Ziyarat, and the people of
the neighboring villages make a pil-
grimage to it twice a month. It as
no dome or edifice over it; but is a
Slain white sepulchre, with a neat bor-
er of carved flowers resembling the
fleur-de-lys.” The principal mosque at
Rori was built in the time of Akbar, as
were most of the buildings of note, by
Muhammad M’as1'1m, a Saiyid of rank,
who is buried at Sakar under a tower
90 ft. high, which commands a. fine
panoramic view, and is the most con-
spicuous edifice in the place. His de-
scendants still reside in the town, and
will supply to the traveller all the in-
formation he can require on the an-
ti uities of the three localities Sakar,
Ba at, and Rori.


#
Fifty-nine
Sixty
Sixty-one
Sixty-two
Sixty-three
Sixty-four
Sixty-five
Sixty-six
Sixty-seven
Sixty-eight
Sixty-nine
Seventy
Seventy-one
Seventy-two
Seventy-three
Seventy-four
Seventy-five
Seventy-six
Seventy-seven
Seventy-eight
Seventy-nine
Eighty
Eighty-one
Eighty-two
Eighty-three
Eighty-four
Eighty-five
Eighty-six
Eighty-seven
Eighty-eight
Eighty-nine
Ninety
Aivattombattu
Aravattu
Aravattondu
Aravatteradu
Aravattumüru
Aravattunălku
Aravattaidu
Aravattāru
Aravattélu
Aravattentu
Aravattombattu
Eppattu
Eppattondu
Eppatteradu
Eppattumuru
Eppattunälku
Eppattaidu
Eppattāru
Eppattelu
Eppattentu
Eppattombattu
Embattu
Embattondu
Embatteradu
Embattumüru
Embattunălku
Embattaidu
Embattāru
Embattélu
Embattentu
Embattombattu
Tombattu
Yábhaitommidi
Aruvai
Aruvaiwokati
Aruvairendu
Aruvaimudu
Aruvainălugu
Aruvaiaidu
Aruvaiaru
Aruvaiyédu
Aruvaiyenimidi
Aruvaitommidi
Debbhai
Debbhaiwokati
Debbhairendu
Debbhaimúdu
Debbhainălugu
Debbhaiaidu
Debbhaiaru
Debbhaiyédu
Debbhaiyenimidi
Debbhaitommidi
Yenabhai
Yenabhaiwokati
Yenabhairendu
Yenabhaimúdu
Yenabhainălugu
Yenabhaiaidu
Yenabhaiaru
Yenabhaiyédu
Yenabhaiyenimidi
Yenabhaitommidi
Tombhai
Eimpattonpadu
Arupadu
Arupattondru
Arupattirandu
Arupattimundru
Arupattinángu
Aruppaindu
Arupattāru
Arupattézhu
Arupattettu
Arupattonpadu
Yezhupadu
Yezhupattondru
Yezhupattirandu
Yezhupattumündru
Yezhupattinángu
Yezhupattaindu
Yezhupattāru
Yezhupattézhu
Yezhupattettu
Yezhupattonpadu
Yempadu
Yempattondru
Yempattirandu
Yenpattumündru
Yempattinángu
Yenpattaindu
Yenpattāru
Yenpattézhu
Yenpattettu
Yenpattonpadu
Tonnaru
Ekunsáth
Sáth
Eksasht
Băsasht
Tresasht
Chausasht
Páñsasht
Sahāsasht
Satsasht
Adsasht
Ekunhattar
Sattar
Ekähattar
Báhättar
Tryaháttar
Chauryāhattar
Pañchyāhāttar
Shāhāttar
Satyaháttar
Aththyāhāttar
Ekunaishin
Aishih
Ekáñyshin
Byáñyshin
Tryáñyshin
Chauryáñyshín
Pañchāyshin
Sháñyshin
Satyáñyshin
Aththyányshin
Ekunnavvad,
yáñyshin
Navvad
ImaW-
Ogamsäth
Sáth
Ekseth
Băseth
Treseth
Choseth
Páñseth
Chhäseth
Sadseth
Adseth
Aganyoter
Sitter
Ekoter
Bohoter
Tohoter
Chuñmoter Or
Chauñoter
Pañchoter
Chhoter
Sittoter
Iththoter or Ath-
thoter
Oganasi
eñsí
Ekyási
Byåsí
TrVási
Chorási
Pañchāsi
Chhási
Satyási
Athyási
Nevyási
Newuñ


#
ENGLISH.
Ninety-one
Ninety-two
Ninety-three
Ninety-four
Ninety-five
Ninety-six
Ninety-seven
Ninety-eight
Ninety-nine
A hundred
Two hundred
Three hundred
Four hundred
Five hundred
Six hundred
Seven hundred
Eight hundred
Nine hundred
A thousand
Ten thousand
A hundred thousand
A million
Fractions.
A quarter
A half -
Three-quarters
One-and-a-quarter
One-and-a-half [ters Ondúvare
One-and-three-quar-
Two-and-a-quarter
Two-and-a-half
KANARESE. TELUGU.
Tombattondu Tombhaiwokati
Tombatteradu Tombhairendu
Tombattumuiru Tombhaimúdu
Tombattunălku Tombhainălugu
Tombattaidu Tombhaiaidu
Tombattaru Tombhaiaru
Tombattélu Tombhaiyédu
Tombattentu Tombhaiyenimidi
Tombattombattu Tombhaitommidi
Núru Núru
Innuru Inniru
Munniru Munnúru
Nānūru Nanniru
Aintiru Yéniru
Aruniru Arnàru
Eluniru Yélniru
Entundru Yenamanniru
Ombaintaru Tommanniru
Sävira Weyyi
Hattusávira Padivélu
Núrusávira or Laksha Laksha
Hattulaksha Padilakshalu
Chillare, Chillaralu.
Kalu Pätika
Ardha Ara
Mukkálu Muppätika
Ondúkálu Wokatimpátika
Wokatinnara
Ondimukkálu Wokat :*
Eradákálu Rendumpátika
Rendunnara
[ters Eradóvare
Two-and-three-quar-Eradamukkalu
Rendummuppátika
TAMIL.
Tomnáttonru
Tonnattirandu
Tonnúttumündru
Tonnittinángu
Tonnúttaindu
Tonnóttaru
Tomnáttézhu
Tonnittettu
Tonnattonpadu
Nûru
Iruniru
Munnúru
Nániru
Einniru
Arundru
Yeszhuniru
Yennfiru
Tolāyiram
#
Padináviram
£"
Pattulatcham
Kál
Arai
Mukkál
Onrékál
Onpurai
Onremukkál
Irandékál
Irandarai
Irandémukkál
MARATHí.
Ekyannav
Byånnav
Tryannav
Chauryannav
Pañchānnav
Shānnav
Satyannav
Athyánnav
Navyānnav
Shambhar
Don shen
Tinshen
Chár sheh
Páñch sheh
Sāhāsheh
Sát shen
Ath sheh
Nawsheh
Haiár
£jar
Laksh
Dáhá laksh
Apürndhk.
Paw
Ardhá
Pāwān
Sawá
Dir
Påwne don
Sawá don
Adits
Pawne tin
GUJARATí.
Ekānnuń.
Báñnuń
Tráñnuń
Choráñnuń
Pañchānnuń
Chháñnuń or Chhan-
newu or Chhannun
Sattánuń
Aththānun
Nuwännun
So
Baso or Basen
Transen
Chârsen
Páñchsen
Chhasen
Sátseh
Athsen
Naw sen
Ek hajár
Das haiár
Ek lâk
Das lákh
Apurnańk.
Pá.
Ardho
Pomo
Sawa
Dod
Poná be
Sawá be
Hadi
Poná tran


86$’
‘OI?! ‘SKOSVZIS-—I-[KIJZ -IO SKOISIAI([——'SiIIHV'Il1!IVOOA
Exousn.
Monday
Tuesday
Wednesday
Thursday
Friday
Saturday
East
West
North
South
Spring
Summer
Autumn
Winter
Abyss
Air
Atom
Ashes
Bank of river.
Bay
Beach
Bridge
Bubble
Burning
Iiauanizsn. Tsuzou.
Somavara Sémavaramu
Dlangalavara Mangalawaramu
Budhavara Budhawaramu
Guruvara B1-ihaspativaramu
Shukravara Sukravaramu
Shanivara. Sanivaramu
Mfida or Pdrva Tfirpu
Padava or Paschima Padamara.
Badaga or Uttara Uttaramu
Tenka or Dakshina Dakshinamu
Vasantarutu Vasantarutuvu
Grishmarutu Grishmarutuvu
Sharadrutu Saradrutuvu
Varsharutu Varsharutuvu
Patala Patalamu
Gali Akfasamu
Anuvu Anuvu
Bndi - Bddide
Holédada or Naditira Yétiwoddu
Sarave 1A’ hatamu
Révu R vu
Sétuve Vantena
Nfrugnllo Nirubugga
Urita Kaltsadamu
TAMIL.
Tingal
Sevvay
Budan
Viyazham
vein
Sani
Kizhakku
Mérku
Vadakku
Terku
Vasandakalam
Kodaikalant
Karkalam
Panikkalam
lgatélam
’ a avéli
A5113’ .
Sambal
Attangkarai
Kudakkaqlal
Kadalorarn
Varavadi
Nirkkumizhi
Yoridal
LIARATHi-
Somwar
Mangalwar
' Budhwar
Guuniri.
Somwar, [in writing]
Some
Mangalwar, [in writ-
ing] Bhome
Budhwar, [in writ-
ing] Budhc
Guruwér, brihas at- BrihaspatwarorGuru-
war war, [in writing]
Shukrwar
Shaniwar, mafidwar
Pfirv
Pashchim
Uttar
Dakshin
Vasant ritii
Unhala, grishm ritfi
Sharad rit\i
Gareu
Shukarwar, [in writ-
ing] Sukre "
Shaniwér, [in writ-
ing] Saneu
Perv, Ugaman
Paschim, A’thamar_1
Uttar, Ottar
Dakshan, Dakhkhan
Vasarit ritfi
Unalo, Hunalo
Sard ritu
Hi1'1wa1a,hema1'1t rite Shialo
Doh, agadh jal
iDoh, Dahro, Pam;
Hawa, vayu Hawa, Wayu
Parmanfi, kan Parmanun, Kan, Raj.
Rakh [cheiitfr Rakh
Naditsa kénth, nadi- N adino Kinitho or Tir
A'khat Akhat
Samudr kinaré. Samndr kinaro
Piil, bandh P61
Budbuda Parpoto
-7 $11.10 Balwufi


#
ENGLISH.
Inundation
Lake
Lightning
Marsh
Mountain
Ocean
Path
Plain
Pond
Promontory
Quicksand
Rain
River
Sand
Sea
Shower
Smoke
Snow
Spark
Soot
Stone
Stream
Tempest
- £
Walley
Water
Well
Whirlpool
Whirlwind
Wave,
KANARESE.
Pravāha.
Maduvu
Minchu
Kesarunela
Betta
Samudra
Hadi
Maidāna
Kola
Kóna
Kallusubu
Male
Hole
Usubu
Samudra
Male Sóne
Hoge
(no word/
Kidi
Kádige
Kallu
Pravāha or Orate
Gálímale
Gudugu
Kamari
Niru
Bávi
Suliniru
Suligálf
Ale
TELUGU,
Warada
Madugu
Merupu
Bādavanéla
Konda
Mahá samudramu
Dári
Bayalu
Gunta
Bhimyagramu
Dongaisuka
Wāna
Yéru
Isuka
Samudramu
Türa
Poga
Mantsu
Minuguru
Karadūpamu
Ráyi
Pravāhamu
Gálivāna
Urumu
Kondalasandu
Nillu
Nuyyi
Sudi
Sudigali
Ala
TAMIL.
Wellam
Yéri
Minnal
Saduppu nilam
Malai
Samuttiram
Pádai
Maidánam
Kulam
Taraimunai
Tali
Mazhai
Aru
Manal
Kadal
Perumazhai
Pugai
Vuraindamazhai
Tippori
Ottadai
Kallu
Niróttam
Káttumazhai
Kumaral
Malaichandu
Tannir
Kinaru
Nírchuzhi
Sushar kattu
Alai
MARATHí. GUJARATí.
Púr Rel, Pür
Sarowar Sarowar
Vij Bijlf
Pánthal dzāgā Anjan
Parwat, dungar
Parvat, dongar
Mahá samudr, ságar
Ságar, samudr
Márg, wát Rasto, wát, marg
Maidan Medan
Talen Taláw
Bhushir Bhūshir
Rutan, bárík walá Garkijay tewi reti
Páňs Warsät
Nadi Nadi
Reti, wälú Retí
Samudr Dariyo, dario
Pawasachi sar Warsatnun jhaptuñ
Dhür Dhuñmádo or Dhun-
wădo
Barph, him Baraf
Thingli, thingi, thingi Changi, kājli
Kájal, mas Dhons, mes
Dhondā, dagad Paththar
Odhā, jhará Jharo
Wádal, tuphán Tofan
Gadgadāt, megh garj-Gadgadāt, megh garj-
ná ná nedán
Khoreń, dará Orin, dungroniwach-
chenuh medán, khinn
Pání Pání, jál
Vihir Kuwo
Bhonwrā, jalabhram Wamal
Wawatal, tsakra wat Watoliyo wa
Lahar, lát. Moje, dariání leher


Youth
Parts of the Body.
Ankle
Arm
Back
Back-bone
Bile
Blood
Beard
Body
Bone
Brain
Breast
Breath
Cheek
Chin
Ear
Elbow
Eye
Eye-brow
Eye-lash
Face
Fat
Finger
Fist
Flesh
Foot
Forehead
Gland
Gum
Hair
Hand
Head
Heart
Hareya
Avayavagalu.
Girige
Rette
Bennu
Bennelubu
Pitta
Rakta
Gadda
Mai
Elubu
Médhe
Ede
Usuru
Galla
Davade
Kiwi
Monakai
Kammu
Hubbu.
Reppékúdalu
Mukha
Kobbu
Bettu
Mushti
Māmsa
Päda
Hane
Gantalmani
Wasadi
Kúdalu
Kai
Tale
Hrudaya
Yauvanamu
Avayavamulu.
Chilamanda
Bhujamu
Vipu
Wennemuka
Paityamu
Netturu
Dádi
Shariramu
Yemuka
Medadu
Rommu
Upiri
Davada
Gaddamu
#
ôchevyi
£7
Kanuboma
Reppaventrukalu
Mukhamu
Kovvu
Wélu
Pidikili
Máñsamu
Pädamu
Nosalu
Kaniti
I
entrukalu
Cheyyi
Tala
Gunde
Vålíbam
Kanuk kāl
Pujam
Mudugu
Mudugelumbu
Pittam
Irattam
Tádi
Wudal
Yelumbu
'
ul
#
Kannam
Móváyk kattai
Kádu
Muzhangai
Kán
£
annual
£"
Kozhuppu
Viral Pp
Musti
Sadai
Pädam
Netti
Wisainarambu
#
aWir
#"
Talai
Irudayam
Jwāni, tàrunya
Sharirdche bhag.
Ghotá
Bahá, bhūj
Path
Juwäni, joban
Sharirnd awayav.
Ghunti
Båhu, bhūj, páñkha-
Wáñso, pith [duń
Kaná, pathitsä käitä Wansaniwachchenum
Pitt Pitt [hádkun
Rakt Lohi, rakt
Dárhi Dáhádi
Sharir, ang Sharir, dil
Hád Hádkun
Mendui Bhejun
Chhátí, ur Chhátí
Dam, shwás Dam, swas
Gál Gál
Hanawati Hádpachi
Kán Kán, karn
Kopar Kopriyun, końhoñni
Dolá, netr Ankh, netr wuń.
Bhinwai Ankhnun topun, bha-
Pápanítsä kesh Ankhní pânpen or
Chehrá Chehero ... [pâmpan
Lathth, tsarbi Jádo (adj), charbí
Bot Angli [(subs.)
Math Muth, dhink
Más Måns
Pây Pag
Kapal Kapál, lelát
Piñd, máns granthi
Hiradí
Kesh
Håt
Doken
Hrid, hridya
Pind, másgranthi
Awālū [wāla, kes
Nimálá, bál, wal, mo-
Háth
Máthuh
IIrid, haiyun, dil


#
ENGLISH.
Heel
Hip
Jaw
Joint
Kidney
Knee
Knuckle
Leg
Lip
Liver
Loin
Lun
M£w
Moustaches
Mouth
Nail
Neck
Nose
Palate
Pulse
Ribs
Side
"Skin
Sinew
Skull
Shoulder
Spittle
Sweat
Stomach
Tear
Temples
Thig
Throat
Thumb
KANARESE.
Himmadi
Tonka
Davedéhallu
ul .
Gundige
Monakalu
Ginnu
Kålu
Tuti
Yakruttu
Naduvu
Swása kôsh
#
Mishe
Bávi
#.
Kuttige
Múgu
Angala
Dhātu
Pakkelubugalu
Alle
Tölu
Nara
Kapála
Hegalu.
Ugulu
Bevaru
Hotte
Kanniru
Kendáre
Tode
Gantlu ,
Hebbettu
TELUGU.
Madime
Tunti
Lodavada
# dekā
Pakkeragundekāya
Mókalu gun y
Ganupu
Kálu
Pedavi
Neride
Nadumu
Shwāsakósamu
Mülaga
Misalu
Nóru
Góru
Meda
Mukku
Angili
Dhātuvu
Pakkayemukalu
Pakka
Tölu
Naramu
Purre
Bhujamu
Yengili
Chemata
Kadupu
Kanniru
Kanatalu
Toda
Gontu
Bottanavélu
TAMIL.
Kudik kāl
Iduppu
Tà dai
Kílu
Kundikkäy
Muzhangál
Virar kamu
Kál
Wudádu
Iral
Arai
Nurai Ira.
Yelumbu mulai
Misai
Way
Nagam
Kazhuttu
Múkku
Mélváy
Nádi
Vilávelumbu
Pakkam
Tôl
Narambu
Mandai Yodu
T6]
Yechil
Wérvai
Wayirn
Kannir
Pori
Todai
Tondai
Kai peru viral
MARATHí. GUJARATí
Tánch, khoñt Edí
Kamaretsä khawātā Jhangno thapo
Jabrā Jadbun
Sandhá Sándho
Mitra piñd, gurd Mutra piñd, gurdi
Gudghá, dophá Ghutan
Per Bedkun, periyuń, per
Tangadi Tangadi
Oth Ot, oth, ohot
Kálij Kaljun
Kamar Kamar, ked
Phupphüs Fefasun, fufus
Asthisár, hádáñtalá Asthisar,hádkáñmáñ-
Mishí [mendū Mūchh ...[heno medá
Toñd, mukh Mukh, mhodun
Nakh Nakh
Mán Gardan, bochi, doki
Nākh Nák
Tálá Tálwun
Nádi Nád, nádí
Phäsalyā, baragadyá Pänslí
Kús Kükh
Kátadi, tsarm, tsam- Twacha, chamdi
Snáyu [den Snáyu -
Mastakāchikawanchi Khopri
Khāndā Khándh, khanjuñ
Thuhkí Thuink
Ghám Parsev
Jathar Jathrágni, pet
Asúñ, ashru Añsüh
Kānshíl Namnáñ
Mahdi, jångh Jhang
Galá Galun
Angathá Háthno angotho


#
Toe
Tongue
Toot
Waist
Windpipe
Wrist
Wein
Diseases.
Ague
#
Beauty
Blind
Bruise
Cholera
Cold
Cough
Consumption
Deaf
#
igestion
£
Drowsiness
Dumb
Fainting
Fever
Fracture
Kåluberalu
Nálige
Hallu
Tonka
Kanthavála
Manikattu
Raktanara
Rógagalu.
Chali jwara
Bólu
Cheluvike
Kurudu
Jajjughāya
Wántibhédi
Nagadi
#
shayaró
Kivudu ga
Sávu
Jírna
Kanasu
Tūkadike
Múgu
Mürche
Jwara
Muruku
Kálivélu
Nāluka
Pallu
Mola
Gontupika
Manikattu
Nettuti naramu
Wyddhulu.
Chali jwaramu
Bódi
Andamu
£
ôgudu
£
Padisemu
Daggu
Kshayarógamu
Chevudu
Tsävu
Jírnamu
Kala
Nidramabbu
Mūga
Mürchha
Jwaramu
Bítika
Kálviral
Naku
Pal
Iduppu
Kuralvulai
Kanukai
Iratta narambu
Kulirk kāychal
Mottai talai
Azhagu
Kurudu
Vuraytal
Wāndi bedi
Saluppu
Irumal
Kshayam
Sevudu
Săvu
Sirana,
Kanavu
Wurakkam
Wimai
Múrchai
Suram
Wedippu
Pāyāchen bot Pagnun angluń
Jíb J#
Dáñt Dáñt
Kamar, kati Ked -
Naraden Galání nalí, nardi
Mangat Ponhocho, káñduń
Shir Shurá, nes
Rog. I'og.
Antaryå táp Tāhādīyo taw
Takkal [panā Tal
Saundarya, sundar-Swarap, ra
Andhlá Andhlo #"
Thetsmen [wākhá Chhundāwuñ, kach-
Dzari marí, patki, Aghok, wákho, kogli-
Hiñw, thandi, sardi Sardi [yun
Khoklä Khās, końso
Kshay Kshay, khaí
Bahirá Behero
Hasti bhang, hádkun
bháge chhe te
Gout
Hunger
Indigestion
Inflammation
Jaundice
Lame
Madness
Wáta hidita
Hashivu
Aiírna
£
Kåmåle
Kuntu
Huchchutana
Watarógamu
Akali
Ajirti
anta
Kámerlu
Kunti
Werri
Sălai
Pasi
Asiranam
Yerivandam
Kåmålai
Mudam
Paittiyam
Mrityu, maran
Jirne, páchan
Swapn
Gungi, sustí
Muká
Murchchhá
Tàp
Asthi bhang
Wáta róga
Bhük, kshudhá
Apachan, ajírn
Rakta dosha
Káwi]
Lungrá
Wed, khü]
Mot, maran
Páchan, jarwun
Swapn, Samanun, sap-
Ghen, sustí [nun
Gungo, mungo
Murchhá, behons
Tâw, jwar
Najlo
Bhukh, kshudá
Ajirn, apacho
Lahi wikar
Kamalo
Lungdo
Gändäpanui


909
'S(IiI&l1H(IVI1'O—'OIfi ‘SHSY'£[SI(I—'SIIlIV'I.0.i[VO0A
Exousn.
Measles
N nmbness
Ophthalmia
Pain
Rash
Rheumatism
Sickness
Sleep
Smallpox
Spasm
Sore
Squint-eyed
Stammering
Swelling
S ptoms
Tbinrst
Voice
\Vatching
Weakness
Wound
Wrinkle
Quadrupeds.
Alligator
Animal
Antelope
Ass
Bat

Kanazmsn.
Dadara
Timaru
Kannunovu
Bénc
Isabu
Vétaroga
Vyadhi
Nidde
Shidnbu
Shelevu
Hunnu
Meralugannulla
Natti
Bavu
Rogalakshanagalu
Bayarike
Swara
Eehcherike
Nistrane
Ghaya
Madatcbidda
0hatughpddaja/ntu-
galu.
Mosalc
Jantu
Chigari
Kattc
Kunnu kapiti
TELUGU.
Tattammavam
Timmiri
Kandla kalaka
N .
$iI£1%‘i
ayuvu
Vyadhi
N idra
Masiiehikamu
fdpu
Pundu
Mellakannugala
Netti
Wapu
Lakshanamulu
Dahamu
Kanthadhwani
Nidrapattaka p6va--
damn
Balahinata
Gayamu
Mudata.
O'hatuahpaj;bntm'ulu.
Mosali
Jantuvu
J inka
Gadide
Gabbilamu
TAMIL-
Seruvaisfin
Timir
Kar_n_1oy
Novu
Kappan
Vayvu
Viyadi
Nittirai
Vaisfirf
Kurandavali
Pun
O’rak kannulla
Tettuvay
Vikkam
Kungel
Tagam
Toni
Tfikarn pidiyamai
Turp palam
Kayam
Tiraivu
Mudalai
Jentu
Man
Kazhudai
Turunjil
Msnirni. Gwaniri.
Gowar Gowruii
Mehri, sunpana Behermari jawmi, ka-
kadai jawuii
Dole yene Ankh dukhwa awawf
Shiil, kal, tidik Shul, tadak, bhala
Ghamolya sis: "
Sandhi wayn Saiidhf wayu
Dukhne, malmal Mandwai, jiw chun
thay chhe te, chun-
thado
Nfj, nidra Uiidh, nidra
Devi Seli, sitla, devi
Gola, petka, val T§i1'n_1, want, iuikdi,
kheiich [wade
Khat, kshat Chadu, ojhdo, ogh
Tirpa, tsakna Undhi pultjno
Totareii bolne Bobduii or totaduii
Sfij Sojo [bolwuii
Chinh, lakshan Chinh, lakshan
Tahan Taras
Swar, awaj Swar, awaj
Pahart. karne, jéga- Pohoro bharwo, jag-
ran wuil, (protecting)
, rakhwuii
Ashaktata N abalai
Ghay, dzakhm Gha, 'akhm [luii
Surakuti, chiramya Kach i,karch1i, kach-
Chatuphpad. Ohopagdri jamiwar.
Magar, susar Magar, suswat
Jiw, prani, janawar J auawar, jiw, prani
Haran, mrig Haran
Gfidhav Gadheduii
Wiigfil Wagluii


#
ENGLISH.
Iion
Lizard
Mare
Monkey
Mouse (muskrat)
Mule
Muskdeer
Otter
Ox
Panther
Pig
Porcupine
Rabbit
Ram
Rat
Rhinoceros
Sable
Sheep
Squirrel
Tiger
Wolf
Birds.
Adjutant
Brood
Chicken
Cock
Crane
Crow
Dove
Duck
le
Falcon
KANARESE. TELUGU.
Sinha Sinhamu
Halli Balli
Hennu kudure Godige
Kóti Koti
Chundili Tsuntsu
Hésarakatte Kantsara gădide
Kasturimruga (no word)
(no word) £ word)
Basava eddu
Honniga Chiruta puli
Handi Pandi pilla
E'du Mundlapandi
£ mola £ kundélu
Hagaru ottelu
Ili Yeluka
Khadgamruga Khadga mrigamu
(no word) (no word)
Kuri Gorre
Anilu Udata
Huli Puli
Tôla Todélu
Pakshigalu. Pakshulu.
(no word) Begguru pakshi
Pakshimarigalahindu Pakshipillalu
Kólímari Kodipilla
Hunju Punju
Kokre Konga
Kåge Káki
Pârvánada hakki Pavurayi
Tadi Adabátu
Haddu Bóruva
Giduga Déga
TAMIL.
Singam
Palli
Mádaván
Kurangu
Sitteli
Kövéru kazhudai
Kastüri mán
(no word)
Yerudu
Siruttai
Panri
Mullam panri
Simai musal
Attuk kadā
Yeli
Kândă mirugam
(no word)
Adu
Amir pillai
Puli
Tóndán
Madáli
Kunjugal
Kózhik kanji
Séval
Narai
Käkkai
Purá
£ váttu
azhu
#"
MARATHí. GUJARATí
Sinh Sinh, sahín
Pál Ghalodi
Ghodi Ghodi [dar
Wānar, mákad Wánar, wánaro, wán-
Undir Undar
Khenchar Khachar
Kastūritsä mrig Kastir mrig
Pán manjar Daríái kutruń, geábí
Bail Balad
Bibalyá waghá Chitto
Dukar Dukar
Sălui Sáhudi
Sasa Sasólo, saso
Mendhá Mendho
Ghus, mushak Kol, ghtis
Gendà Geñdo
Samir Sasuir
Mehdhrúñ Ghetum, medhun
Khár Khareli, khiskoli
Wagh Wågh
Landgä Wadu
Pakshi. Pakshi.
Saras Baglo, kolang
Andiumbawine, pileń Marghi wagerepaksh-
inán bachchán
Kombadichen pilín Marghinum bachchuń
Kombadá Margho, kukdo
Baglá. Baglo
Kawalá Kágdo
Párwā, kabutar Khabutar, párewun
Baten Batak
Garud Garud pakshi
Sasanā Bâj, shakro


‘SEIIISIE[—-SC[?III—-'SGII'¥IY'IZlHVI)O_\
Florican
Fowl
Game
Goose
Hawk
Hen
Heron
Hoopoe
Jungle Fowl
Kite
Nightingale
Ostrich
Owl
Parrot
Partridge
Peacock
Peahen
Pheasant
Pigeon
Quail
Sparrow
S pur- fowl
Wagtail
Fishes.
Bombelo
Crab
Eel
Hilsa
1\‘[ahasir
Mango-fish
Oyster
Pomfret
Porpoise
/no word)
Koli
Bétegalu
Batu
Dége
Pette
Heg okkare
Kon é hakki
Adavikoli
Haddu
no word)
no word)
fibe
Gini
Kau'u a
Navilug
Hennu navilu
(no word)
Parivala
Lavuge
Gubbi
Kadukéli
Kurirbara gubbi
Minugalu.
(no word)
Nalli
Havuminu
no word
no word
no word
Chippuminu
(no word)
Kai minu
Kamiledipitta
Pakshi
Veta mrigamu
_ Peddab atu
Dé a
Petia
Konga .
Kfikuduguvva
Adavikodi
Gadda
no word)
no word)
Gudlagxiba
Chiluka
Kauiizupitta
N emali
Pentinemali
Pedda néla nemali
Pavuramu
Kolankipitta
Urapitsuka
Chimatakodi
Dasaripitta
Uképalu.
(no word)
Pita
Pamu ohépa
(no word
(no word
Yerra maga chépalu
Gulla chépa
Tsanduvayi ohépa
(no word)
Varagu kozhi (no word)
Kézhi Kombaden
Véttaip pa;-av-ai Paradh, shikar
Periya vattn Hails
Dékai Bahiri sasana
Pettai Koinbadi
Kurugu l Bagla
Kuk kuruvana pakchi Hudhud
Kattuk kozhi Ran koinbadeii
Parundu Ghar
Sagorap patchi Bulbul
Tikkuruvi Shaha mrig
A'ndai Ghubad
Kilip pillai Popat
Kavdari Titar, kawada
Mayil Mor
Penmayil Lander
Kattu ehéval Kukkut kombada,
kukkut kumbha
Pu_ra Kabutar
Kadai - Lawa
Vrirk kuruvi (lhixnani, chidi
Mullen kézhi Ran koinbada
Valat_t_u kuruvi Khanjan, khanjrit
Machangal. Mdse.
Karuvadu Bobil
Nanglu Khenkadeii
Vilangu N iwata
(no word) Hilsa
no /word) Mahasir
no word) Ta shi
Matti K’ av
Vavval min Sarariga
Kadar panri Gada
/no word}
Marghari, kukdari
Shikar
Hans
Baj, shakro
Marghi
Baglo
Hudhud
Rani kukdo
Samdi
Bulbul
Shahamrig
Ghuwed
Popat
Titar
Mor
Dhel
Kakknt kumbdo
Khabutar
Lawri
Challi
Rani kukdo
Dhobl chario, mamolo
all/ldchhldri.
Bobilo
Karchalo
Bam, lewato
Hilsa
Mahasir
Tapshi
Kalu
Chhamanun
Dariai dukar, gado


#
ENGLISH.
Rahu
Shark
Shrimp
Skate
Sole
Turtle
Whale
Insects.
Ant
Bee
Beetle
Bug
Butterfl
Caterpi
Centipede
Cochineal worm
Fire-fly
Fly
£
raSSnOOOer
Leech pp
Locust
Louse
Maggot
Millepede
Moth
Scorpion
Silk-worm
Snail
Snake
Spider
Swarm
Tick
KANARESE.
no word)
no word)
igadi
740 wo?"
# tword
firma
Timingila
Hulagalu.
Ira
Jénunona
Dumbi
Tagani
Sítá prätti hula
Kambali hula
Narugalu
(no word)
Beñki hula
Nona
Gungădu
Midite
Atte
Midicha
Hinu
Hula
Sáviragalu
Patañgada hula
Chélu
Pattu hula
Basavana hula
Hávu
Jéda
Makshika samudāya
Unni
TELUGU.
£ word)
ora chépa
Kindrapottu
Téki chépa
Nāluka chépa
Tábélu
Timingilamu
Purugulu.
Chima
Téneyiga
Boddanki
Nalli
Sitákókamu
Kambalipurugu
Kállajerri
Arudrapurugu
£g"
3.
£a
Midata
Jelaga
Peddamidata
Pénu
Purugu
Rókatibanda
Chimata
£
attupuru
#"
Pámu.
Salepurugu
Gumbu
Pinujulu
TAMIL.
(no word)
Surá
Irál
# word)
erumai näkku
Amai
Timingilam
Pichigal.
Yerumbu
Téni
Wandu
Mattup pichi
Wannáttip puchi
Kambalip pachi
Púram
Tambalappachi
#in minippuchi
Kosu
Pachaik kili
Attai
Pattup pichi
£
Pâmbu
Silandi
Kēttam
Vuni
MARATHí.
Roh
Mushi
Kolambí
Bhākas
Jhipati
Kásava
Magar
Kitak,
Mungi
Madha máshi
Mogar
Dhenkün
Patang
Surwant, kusarád,
Ghon kusarin
Kirmijäche kiden
Kádzawā
Máshi
Machchhar, dáñs
Tol, gawatyā to]
Dzalá
Tol
U’
Kidá, ali
Kanakhajará
Kasar
Winchú
Reshmätsä kidá
Mogal gay
Sáp, :
Suterá, koli
Thawá.
Gochid
GUJARátí.
Roh
Mushi
Kolabi
Lákad
Jhipdi
Káchbo
Magarmachh
Kitako.
Kídi
Madh mákh
Bhamro
Máñkan
Patañg
Kamlo,
Kánsalo
Kirmajno jiwado
Agiyo
Makh
Machchhar, dańs
Tíd
Jalo
Tol
Jú
Aiel, kido
Kánkhajuro
Tao
Wichhu
£ kido
okalgäy
Sáp, sarp
Karoliyo [samudfly
Makhno dhaglo or
Chimo, chimodi"
[kido
káñmliyo,


#
Vermin
Wasp
White ant
Stones, etc.
Agate
Alum
Amethyst
Antimony
Brass
Cat's-eye
Chrystal
Copper
Coral
Carnelian
Diamond
Dross
Emerald
Flint
Gold
Iron
Jet
Jewel
Lapis lazuli
Lead
Loadstone
Marble
Metal
Mine
Mineral
Pearl
Kita
Kadaja
Geddalu
Kallugalu muntaddu.
Vaidarya
Patikāra
Mánikya
Surma
Hittåle
Gómédhika
Sphatika
Tâmbra
Havala
Holeva kallu
Vajra
Nore
Pachche
Chakkumukkikallu
Chinna
Kabbina
Karanji
Odave
Waidarva
Shisa ry
Sajikáñtakallu
Alémänikallu
Lóha
Gani
Lóhadhātu
Muttu
Purugulu
Tummeda
Cheda
Ratnamulu
modalayinavi.
(no word)
Patikáramu
no word)
urumá
Ittadi
Waiduryamu
Sphatikamu
Rága
Pagadamu
Kuruvindaráyi
Rava
Chittamu
Patsa
Chekimukiráyi
Bangaru
Inumu
(no word)
Ratnamu
Vaidaryamu
Sisamu
Südanturáyi
Chaluvarayi
Lóhamu
Gani
Ganilónivastuvu
Mutyamu
Pandangalaiazhikkun Kide, kid mungi
Kulavi [genduk kul Gáñdhil mási
Sel
Vaidariyam
Pdik kāram
Sevvandikal
Nílánjanakkal
Pittalai
Púnaik kanga!
Padikam
Sembu
Pavazham
(no word)
Wairam
Sittam
Pachai
Sakkai mukkikal
Pon
Irumbu
Karunindlai
Irattinam
(no word)
Iyam
Kándakkal
Salavaik kal
Lógam
Kani
Tadu
Muttu
Walwi, udai
Dagad wagaire.
Akik
Turtí, phatki
Yākūt
Surmyáchi dhātū
Pital
Lasapyá
Bilor, káñts
Támben
Poñwleń [dhrá akik Parwālāń
Kidi mankodi
Diltin pádnári mákh
Udhai
Patharo wagere,
Akik
Fatki, fatakdí
Yákut
Surmo
Pital
Lasanio
Kách, billor
Trâmbun, tarâmbun,
[támbuh
Támbrá kinwá pán-Lál, dholo akik
Hírâ Hiro.
Mal, kit Mel, kāt
Pâts Pánuń.
Gár Chakmakni pathri
Soneh Sonuń, sunuñ
Lokhand Lohodun, lodhuñ
Sange másá Sange musá
Ratn Jwäher, ratn
Lájaward Lájaward
Sisen Sisuń.
Loh chumbak Loh chumbak
Sang marwar Araspähän
Dhātū Dhātū,
Dhātūchi khán Dhātuni khánd
Khanij Khanij (i.e., what
comes out of a mine,
etle kháñdmáñthi
je nikle te)
Motí Moti


ENGLISH.
Quicksilver
Ruby
Sapphire
Silver
Steel
Sulphur
Talc
Tin
Topaz
Touchstone
Turquoise
Apparel.
Boot
Bracelets
Brocade
Button
Cap
Chain
Cloak
Clothing
Coat
Cotton
Drawers
Ear-rings
Embroidery
Fan
Girdle
Glove
Gown
Handkerchief
KANARESE.
Pädarasa
Kempu
Nila
Belli
Ukku
Gandhaka
£
ara
£g.
Ore kallu
Nilada kallu
Udupu.
Mójá
Balegalu
Sarige buttà pattu
Gundi
Kulláyi
Sarapani
Doddachatte
Wastragalu
Chatte
Alle
Challana
Hattakaduku
Nirāji
Bisanige
Datti
Kaigausanige
Niluvangi
Kaivastra
TELUGU.
Pädarasamu
Kempu
Nilamu
Wendi
Ukku
Gandhakamu
Abhrakamu
Tagaramu
Pushyarāgamu
Woragallu
Firójáráyi
Lustulu.
Mójá
Kadiyamulu
Atarash
£
ullávi
£
Kunche
Battalu
- Kótu
Duidi
Sharāyi .
Tammetlu
Buttapani
Wisanakarra
Nadikattu
Cheyjódu
Niluvutangi
Rumâlu
TAMIL.
Rasam
Kembu
Nílam
\'
e
:
Abarékku
Tagaram
Pushparagam
Vuraikal
Níla rattinak kal
Búts jódu
Kudagam
Sittirap pattádai
Pottán
Kullá
Sangili
Porvai chattai
Vuduppu
Nedunjattai
Panju
Nisar
Mattikkág
Púttaiyal
Visiri
Araik kattu
Kaimér sódu
Gavun
Kaik kuttai
MARATHí.
Pará
Mánik, lál
Shani, nil
Rupen
Tikheh
Gandhak
Abhrak
Kathil
Pushkaraj
Kasotí
Phirojá
Poshdk.
Bút
Chudá, kar bhūshan
Kinkhâb
Gundi, builtàw
Topí
Sánkhli
Ghongadi,
[daglá
mothá
[nen
Wastreñ, pangharu-
Dagleń, angarakha
Kápis
Ijár, páyjämä
alí
Kashídà
Pankhá, vijhaná
Kamar, kamarband
Hát mojà
GUJARATí.
Påro
Máñnek, lál
Shaní, nilam
# £ lád
ikhun, khad
Gandhak uń, po
Abarak
Kalhai
Pushkráj, pokhraj
Kasotí
Piroje
IPoshak.
But [duñ, kallf
Ponhonchi, chudi, ka-
Kínkhāb
Boriyun
Topi
Sánklí, sáhkal
Ghughadi,
daglo
Lugdán, wastr
Angrakho, daglo
Ru
mhoto
Ijär, lengo, páyjámo
#" '
kadi, waliyun
Resamun, or jarinum
bharat, chikan
Pankho, winjhno
Kamarbañdh [táná
Háthnuil mojun, das-
Gaun,dzhaga,peshwāj Gawan, jáñmo,jhago,
Ru -
Rumál
mâl [peshwājh


‘H9
‘(I001 10 SH’IOIJiEV—'SIIIlIV'1LlflVOOA
Enomsn.
Broth
Butter
Cabbage
Cauliflower
Cheese
Cork
Cream
Curds
Dainty
Dinner
Drink
Feast
Flesh
Flour
Fried
Glass
Gravy
Greens
Guest
Host
J am
Jelly '
Knife
Milk
Millet
Minced
Mustard
Mutton
Napkin
Oil
Karzanasa.
Mfuiisa sara
Benne
Kovisapalya
Hfivinakovisu
J unnu
Bendu
Kene
Mosaru
N okada bhakshya
Madhyanada fita
Pfmiya
Habba
Miuhsa
Hittu
Huridaddu
Gaji
Mamsa rasa
K ayi palyagalu
Avutanakke handava
Avutana iduvava
Murainba
no word)
firi
Hfilu
N avane
Hachchida
Basive
lléuri miuhsa
'4 8“<.1<.!@
Ewe
Tanuou.
Chfiru
Venna
Kosukura
Pedda kosukiira
Dzunnu
Birada
Migada
Perugu mu
Ruchigala padar ha-
Vedibhoj anamu
Tagé vastuvu
Panduga
Mamsamu
Pindi
Pélchina
Gadzupatra
Méniisa rasamu
Kkukfira
Atithi
Grihastu
Tandra
Sharabattu
Katti
Piilu
Mokkaj onnalu
Ohitakagottina
Kvalu
Véta mainsamu
Rumalu
N one
TAMIL.
Anam
Vcnrxaiy
Kovic kirai
Kali pillavar
Sunnuk kat_t_i
Karku
Palédu
Tayir
Rusiyana vastu
Tini
Panam
Virundu
Mamisam
Mavu
Poritta
Palingu pattiram
Mamisa rasam
Kirai
Vinmdali
Virimdiduvon
Jam tittippu
Jelli
Katti
Pal
Tinai
léogdina
a _ u
A’i_:1_:ir:i‘cuhi
Napkin
Yenney
l\l.m.i1_'nr.
Kiilats
Loni
Kobi
Kfiliphlauwar
Panir
Bats
Malai
Dahin
Pakwiinn
Jewan, bhojan
Guxaniuri.
Sorwo
Mankhan
Kobi
Kaliflowar
Panir
Blich
Malai
Dahiii
Mishthari, pakwan,
swadisht ann
J aman, bhoj an
Pey, pine, pi1_1yatsaPiwf11'1, piwano pa-
adflrth
darth
Jewanawal, mejwani, Ujani, majbani
M as
Pith, kanik
Talalelen
[sari Mans, gost
Lot
Talelun [son
Karlts, kanchechen Kach, kachnun wan-
bhénden, glés
Grewi, minis ras, abe Maiisno ras
Shaka, bhaja [gost Tarkari, shak bhanji,
Pahuna
Yajman, ghar dhani
Muranhbé, murabbé.
Jeli
Tsakfi, suri
Dfidh
Barag, wari
Chhindlelen
Rayf, mohri
Mendharachi sagoti
Tuwal
Tel
shak tarkari
Parono
Ghar dhani, yajman
Muraho
J eli
Chaku
Dfidh
Wari [W\1l'1
Khimo karwo, ghu1'1d-
Rat [dhannun mans
Ghetininu or men-
Mhodun luchhwano
Tel [rumal


#
Pickle
Pepper
Plate
Roast
Rice
Salt
Sauce
Spoon
Stewed
Sugar
Supper
Sweetmeats
Tablecloth
Tra
Wea
Vinegar
Wheat
Wine
House, Furniture, &c.
Arch
Bag
Basket
Barber
Bearer
Bath
Bed-room
Beam
Bench
Uppina kāyi
Menasu y
Pingáni
Sutta
Akki
Uppu
£
Sautu
Bésida
Sakkare
Rātri (ita
Mithayigalu
Méjébatte
Tâmbála
Karuvina mämsa
Kádi
Gódi
Drákshimadya
Mane muttugalu
Muñtdddu,
Kamānu
Chila
Güde
Kshaurakanu
Horuvavanu
Bachchalu mane
Malaguva kóme
Tole gu
Kålu mane
Urugāya
Miriyalu
Tatta
Wurugay
Milagu
Pingán
Sega dzupina vastuvu £ káttinadu
Annamu ôru
Uppu Wuppu
Wyanjanamu Kuzhambu
Garite [mu Karandi
Wetsachesina åhára- Sunda vaitta
Tsakkera Saruk karai
Râtribhôjanamu Iráp pósanam
Mithayi Mittà
Méjà duppati Mésai duppatti
Tatta Tiré
Dúda mamsamu Kanriraichi
Kádi Kádí
Gódhumalu Kódumai
Draksha-sărăyi Diráksha sārāyam
Illu s-dimdnulu
modalayinavi.
Kamānu Walaivu
Gótámu Pai
Gampa Küdai
Mangalavādu Ambattan
Bóyi Bóvi
Snánamu Snána totti
Padakatillu Padukai arai
Dúlamu Wuttiram
Balla pita Visuppalakai
Lonchen
Kálen miri
Rupyächen sämän,
bāsan,bashi
Bhájne
Tândul, bhāt
Mith, lon, lavan
âs
Chamchā
Máñd agnitsá pák
Sakar .
Rátrichen bhojan
ithai
Dastar khán
£ hí
ansrächi sãguti
Shirka $gu
Gahúñ
Drákshächi dárú
Ghar, gharditalei
sdmán, wagaire.
Kamān, mehrāb
Pishwi, thaili
Topli, pátí
Hajám, nhãwi
Atháñnun
Marí
(silver) Ruperi sãh-
man; (a plate) ri-
kábí, thälf
Sekwun, bhajwun
Bhat, chokhā
£, lañn
ăs
Chamcho [rändhelu
Dhime dhime tape
Kháñd [nui bhojan
Wālūn, sandhyá kal-
Míthäi
Dastarkhán
Tabak, khumcho
Wächhardáñnuń
Sarko [máñs
Ghahun
Darākhno dāru
Ghar ane gharno
sdiman ityddí.
Kamān, meherāb
Kothli, theli, £
Topli, toplo [gáñjho
# £
Annárá; (of pålki) Bhoi, aimnár, láwnár
bhoi
Hamām, nháni
[rang mahāl
Nidzawyáchi kholi,
Bál, bahál, tulai
Báñk
Nāhāwāni or snán-
karwanijägå, náñ-
háñni, hamám
Suwäno ordo
Pehed
Bánk


#
ENGLISH.
Bell
Bedstead
Bedding
Blanket
Box
Board
Bolt
Brick
Bucket
Building
£
arria
Ca :
Casket
Cellar
Chink
Chamber
Chimney
Chair
Chest
Cistern
Cook
Corner
Counting-house
Comb
Cover
Coverlet
Cup
Cupola
Cradle
Curtains
KANARESE.
Gañte
Mancha
Hásige
Kambali
Petti
#
Agali
Ittige
Băni
Kattada
Ménada batti
Bandi
Ratnakambali
Barani
Nelamálige
Shilu
£
oge gadū
£
Dodda pettige
Totti
Adigeyavanu
Mūle
Daftara kháni
Báchanige
Muchchala
Hoddike
Batlu
Kalasa
Totlu
Teregalu
TELUGU.
Ghanta
Mantsamu
Parupu
Gongadi
Pette or dabbi
Palaka
Gadiya
Itikerayi
Nillu todé patra
Kattadamu
Vatti
Bandi -
Ratna kambali
Samputamu
Nélamáliga
Bitika
£
ogagúdu
£
Bóshánamu
Níllatotti
Wantavādu
Múla
Kothi
Duvvena
Gavisena or mata
Palangu poshu
Ginne
Górígummatamu
Totla
Dómatera
TAMIL
Mani
Kattil
Kattil mettai
Simai kambili
Petti
Palakai
Tázhppäl
Sengal
Kaittotti
Kattadam
Mezhuku vartti
Wandi
Samukkálam
Simizh
Nilavarai
Pugai kandu
Nárkáli
Periya petti
£"
Samaiyar käran
Mülai
Panachâlai
Sippu
Múdi
Duppatti
Kinnam
Stübi mandapam
Tottil
Tirai chilai
MARATHí.
Ghont
Khát, palang
Bichhänä
Burntis, kámbli, dhā-
bal
Peti, dabí
Phali, takhtā
Khil, adkan
It, wit bálad
Pohryá, báladi
£
Men batti
Wahán, gadi
Satranji, gālitsa
Dabbá
Tal ghar
Phat, chir
Kholí
Dhuráñdeñ
Khurchí
Peti, hadpá
Táñki, kund
Atsäri, swayampâki,
babarchi
GUJARATHí.
Ghant [palangdi
Khatlo, palang,toliyo,
Godduń, pathari,
bíchháñnün
Káñmel, burnus,
dháblí
Peti, dābdi
Patiyun
Aglo, bílí, atkan
Int
Dol, baldi
Imárat
Min batti
£ wāhan
etranji, setrangi,
£ £o
Bhoneńruń
Tad, fät, chir, chiro
#."
uñwādiyui
Khurshi yun
Peti
Tánki, kund, táñkuñ
Rasoiyo
Kon, koprá Khuñno
Pedhi Pehedi, dukán
Phani Káñski [puthun
Dzhāhkan Dháñknuń, padbidun,
Palang posh, påsodă, Chádar
Pyálá # PVáluń
Ghumat #: [jholi
Pálmá, dzholi
Parda
Pálmuñ, ghodivuf
#. ghodiyun,


#
ENGLISH.
Pot
Roof
Scissors
Servant
Sheet
Slave
Snuffers
Soot
Stair
Step
Storey
Sweeper
Table
Tailor
Terrace
Tile
Top
Ton
£
Torch-bearer
Wages
Wall
Washerman
Water-carrier
Window
Wood
Bit
Bridle
Curry-comb
Girth
Martingale
KANARESE.
Gadige
Súru
Kattari
Sévakanu
Hachchada
Gulāma
Kudikattari
Abbaji
Sópána
Mettu
Antastu
Gudisuvava
£
lool
#"
Henchu
Tudi
Ikkala
Divatige
Mashalji
Sambala
Góde
Agasamu
Niru horuvava
Kitiki
Kattige or mara
Kadivála
Lagamu
Karáru
Thadi
Jérbandu
TELUGU.
Kunda
Paipúri
Kattera kóla
Naukaru
Duppati
Udigapuváduorkhāsa
Dipapu kattera
Karadapamu
Mettu
Adugu
Méda
Udchévádu
Méjàballa
Darjívadu
Târusu
Peñku
Midde or kona
Patakāru
Diviti
Mashalji
Jítamu
Góda
Tsákalavádu
Nillu-techchévădu
Kitiki
Mánu
Kallepumukka
Kallemu
Gorapamu
Tanguváru
Mukhapatta
TAMIL.
Pānai
Kurai
Kattari kól
Wélai kāran
Duppatti
Adimai
Vilakka kattari
Ottadai
Marappadi
Karpadi
Mél mettai
Perukku kiraval
Mésai
Taiyar käran
Talam
#
erpuram
£
Pandam
Masalji
Sambalam
Suvar
Wannán
Tannir k karan
Janal
Maram
Kadiválattinirumbu
Kadiválam
Kurappam
Tanguvár
Martingal
MARATHí
Bháñden
Chhappar
Kátar
Tsákar, sewak, dās
Châdar, pásodá
Gulám, dàs
Diwyächi katar
Mas £
Jiná, shidi, dadar,
Páyrí
Majlá, málá
Dzhārūwalá
Mej
Shimpi
Gachchi, agāshí
Kaúl, wit
Shendá, shikhar
Chimtā
Mashál, diwati
Diwatyá, mashälchi
Rozmurá, pagár, mu-
shâhará
Bhi’t
Dhobi, parit
Pānakya
Khidki, bari
Lakúd
Lagâm
Lagam
Kharārā
Tang
Jerband
GUJARA11.
Wäsan
Chhaprun
Kátar
Châkar
Chadar, pichhodi, (of
paper) taw
Gulám, dās
Gul kåtarni
Dhons
Dadar, nisarni [yuń
Pagthiyum, bánhān-
Mál, medo, majlo
Jhádu karnár
Mej
Darji, sui
Agási
Naliyun, int
Toch, shikhar
Chipiyo
Masāl, kākdo
Masālchí
Pagar, majuríná
paisà
Bhit, karho, diwál
Dhobí
Bhisti, páñni bharnár
or láwnar, paniári
Bârí
Iākduń
Kadini lagám
Lagám
Kharelo
Tan
Jer £


ENGLISH.
0 .
Peach
Pear
Pine-apple
Plantain
Plum
Pomegranate
Quince
Raisins
Sugar-cane
Tamarind
Walnut
Trees.
Bambfi
Blaekwood
Boxwood
Coffee
C press
Figtree
Mallows
M le
Piiilat A
Tamarisk
Teak
Vine
Anise
ASPWEW
Beet-root
Cabbage"
Capsicum
Caraway
Cardamurn
Carrot
Ksusnasn.
Kitlfliannu
(no word
(no word
Anasu _
Bale
gm word)
filafnbi
Bédéinb.
Drakshi hanrru
Kabbu
Hunishe
Akréta
Maragalu;
Biduru
Kenrmara
Petti émara
Biin u bija
Snru
Attimara
Khanguni
Pannirugida
Anésu
$10 word)
e
Drglishi gida
Soinpu
"0 W07‘
£20 worg;
ovisapalyn
Menashina kfiyi
(no word) V
E'lakki
Pitakanda


TELUGU. Tuun.
Kichchili pandu Kichili p azham
no war Peach paz am
no war Pear pazham
Anfitsa pandu Annésip pazham
Arit_i pandu Vézhaip azham
Driiksha pandu Plum paz am
Dédima panzlu Madulam pazham
(no word) [du Quince pazham
Yenc_linadr£1kshapan- Kiiynda mundirikai
Cheruku Karumbu [pazham
Chinta pandu Puliyam pazham
(no word) Walnut kottai
Chellu. Maranyal.
Veduru Miingil
N alla mfimu Karuppu maram
£20 word) Punnai maram
afi vittulu Kappichedi
Chfkati menu Pungamaram
Shima médi ehet_1_:u Attimaram
Bella pfakuehettu Tattichedi
(no word) Myrtle maram
Dévadaruvrikshamu Sadikkfiy maram
(no word) no word)
Teku rniinu ékka maram
Driiksha tiga Tirfitcha kodi
Sopu Sornbu cheqli
no word Asparagus
no word Beet-root '
osukrira Kovik kirai
Mirapakilya. Simai mulakfiy
no word) Sombu
‘L-lukulu Yélak kiiy
Gazaragadda Carrot
.-.--.__-.'._._-._
M.
.i'rni. G':J.uu'rri. g
Niiring Nfirangi o
Shaphtélfi, pfch Saflzfilu
N éshpéti Per '
Aniinas Anenés
Kelen Kelun, kelun
Alfi bukhér, iuhbes Klu bokhfir
Dnlimb D-.'u;lem
Bcdéin-(1 Bedfiinnfi g
Manukfi Kali darfikh §3
U ns Seradi Q
Chinch Knmli H
Kkhol, akhrod Akhrot E
Dzhdzjeri. Jam, wrikgko. 5
Bfimbn Wins I
Sisav Sfsam Q
Devadér Dewadér S
Bund Bund »-1
Sari’: [dzhar Sarwu I
Anjir, anjirfiehen Anjirnu jhfid Q
Shakarteti, dilpasantGole-kheru,saka1-teti, z-1
Matli Mat_li [dilpasand 37;
Sural Shanobar
Tiimarisk (slhinni 5
S’ fag, ségwém Q
Dilikshaaa wel Drakshna wela .53
Shep“ Al'llSli Q
N daun Nfigdon 51
In ish hit Chakundar '
K0 f Kobi
Mirchi Mflrchun
W all Wariyali
\7Vcl orfi, welchf Elchi
Giidzur

Glijar


‘O11-I ‘STIHVIHQEIA ‘SlIH.MO'I.>I—‘S.’:[IHY’ID.fiYO0A
Chamomile
Coriander
Cresses
Anemone
Jasmine
Lily (water)
Nosegay
PO PY
Roge
Tulip-tree
Violet
Wreath
Bark
Ber
Blossyom
Branch
Fibre
Flower
Gum
Leaf
Plant
Root
Trunk
Cucumber
Fennel
Flax
Garlic
Gourd
Hemp
Indigo
Ivy
Leek
Lentil
Shfivantige (no word)
Kottuinbari bija Kotimira
Turuka sfisive A’ délukfira
(go word) no word)
allige alle
N aidale Tellakaluva
Hiivinaturéyi Turayi
Péstugida Gasagasfi
Gulébi Gulfibi
Basari no word)
(Go word) (no word)
file Danda
Patte Baradu
Kfiyi Kaya or pandu
Moggu Mogga
Kale 1\[an<_la
Kusuma. Nara or uda
Huvvu Puvvu
Ména Bauka
Ele A’ku
Gigla or sosi Chcttu
Béru Véru
Buda Moqlu
Sauté kfiyi Dose kayo
Sépu Pedda jilakara
Sanabu Dzanumu
Bellulli [kéyi Tellagadda
Séré kayi or kumbala Pottigummadi kaya
N firu Dzanapa. n2'1.ra
Nfli N ilimandu
(no word) (no word)
Ullégedde (no word)
Alasaridi no word)
Sixmnndi
Kottamalli
Cress
(no word)
adimalli kai
Tfimarai
Puehendu
Kass. kasfi.
Rojfi.
Pfivurasu
Violet pu
Pfimalai
Mara attai
Sirukgl;
Pfmgottu
Kilai
Nar
Pu
Pisin
Ilai
N attu
Kizhangu
Adimaram
Vellarik kay
Sadak uppi
Sanal
Vellaip pfinqlu
Surnik kiiy
Sanambu
Aviri
Ivik kodi
N ila venkayam
‘ 1’aya.;'u
Bablina
Dhane
Halim, ahlfiiw
Gulelalé
Jai
Susan, bhuf kamal
Turé.
Apbuehen dzhai;
Gulab
Lélé.
Banaphshfi
Mala, gajré, weni
Sal
Lahan phal
Mohor
Dahéli, khfiiidi
Taiitfr
Phiil
Goiid, dfk
Pan
Rope.
Mill, p.'a.l_ .
Khod, kaiid
Kankcli
Shewapa, shepu
Dzawas, tag
Lasfin
Bhomplé, danger
Tag, sen
Nil, kaliguli
Aivi
Karma
llasfir
Babuna
Dhfinnafi, Kothmir
Halem
Gullala
Cham eh’, jfii
Kama
Fulno dare, or tore,
or ot_o
Kbas hasnuri or allu-
Gulal [nun jhar
Lilla, gulléilé.
Banafs
Fulni mfila or bar
Chhal
Dirnédar fal
Mohor, mor
pals, darlkhlf
Reshi, ehhishthufi
Ful, ushp
Gun ar
Patruzi, pan
Ropo, ehhod, ehhodwo
Mul, muliyun, jad,
jac_l'1yf1i1
Jhadnun thad
Kakadi
Suwa, sué.
Sen
Lasan
Koholun
Sen
Gali
A’shak pecho
Kando
Masfir, masurni dial


ZZ9
‘om ‘nrvus ‘sauna ‘sn'ravnsna—-'sn1uv'1navoo.i
Exams!-r.
Lettuce
Linseed
Mint
Nettle
Nightshade
Oiuon
Parsley
Peas
Rue
Saffron
Sorrel
Spinache
Squill
Thistle
Turnip
Jet-d’eau
Aqueduct
Arable Land.
Barle
Barn y
Bran
Cart
Chaif
Corn
Farm
Farmer
Field
Grass
Harrow
Harvest
Hay
Hedge
KANARESE.
(no word)
Agashe
Pudiné.
K6pa~
(no word)
Yrulli
Achaméda
Battmi
Sadapu
Arishana
Pullamburuchi soppu
no word
no word
attfiri
(no _word) _
N irma hayike
Karanji
Haeondguva bhiimi.
Jave godi
Kanaja
Tavudu
Bandi
Hottu
Dhan a
Géni lnimi
Raitanu
Hola
Garike hullu
Guddali
Suesi
< Onahullu
Béli
TELUGU.
%n0 word)
no word)
Pudini
Duradagondi
(na_wora')
Ulligadda
no word)
atanilu
Sadapa chettu
Kunkuma puvvll
Pulichintaku
Batsalikfira
Adavi, tellagadda
Kusuma chettu
no word
no word
alava
Sévgapu bhnmi.
Barli biyyamu
Dhanyapu kottu
Tavudu
Motabandi
Pollu
Dhanyamu
Idzara
Kapu
Polamu or chénu
Pachchika
Papatumu
Kota
Yendu kasuva
Kanchc
TAMIL.
Lettuce
Siru sanal virai
Tulasi
Kaujori
Vish appundu
Venkayam
Parsley
I’at_tar_ii
(no word)
Manjal
Sukkan Nfirai
Kirai
(no ioord)
Mulli
Turnip
N irt tarai
Vayk kél
Say kdl nilam.
Varkodumai
Kalan'uyam
Tavi _u
Sumai vandi
Padar
Taniyam
Sakupadi
Payir seykiravan
Pulam
Pullu
Parambu
AruPP11
Vularttina pul
Yéli
MARATHi.
Letyfis
Alshi
Pudina
Khaj kolti
Ringni
Kands
Aj mod
Watane
Shitab
Keshar
Tsuka
Palak
Karidra, kankad
Gwaniri.
Kahu
Alasi
Fudno
légwech
onerin i
Kando gp
A'mid
atannafi
Sitab
Kesar
Chuko, khatumro
Palak, cholaini bhaji
Kakad
Utaktara, kélite dho- Utkato
Salgam [tara Salgam [bhani nali
Karanjachi t0t_i Fuwarani, or kara1'n-
Nal, pat Pannino nal, pat
Jirdit dza/min. Jardetjamin.
J av J av
Kothiir Kothér, péluii
Konda Thuliiii, chalan
Gees Gaaun
Bhiis Bhusuii
Dhanya [dzamin Anaj [ijaro
Dharyane ghetleli Ijare lidheli jamin,
Dharekari Ijaradar
Shet Khetar
Gawat, tsar _ Ghas
Kulav, dé.i1tal_en Kulav
Haiigam, Kapniche
divas
Walalelcii gawat
Kupan
Mosaru, kapnino wak-
hat
Sukuu ghlis
wan, jhadi
Iv


#
Wheat
Wild
Yoke
Yoke of oxen
Of Banking and
Accounts.
Account
Acquittance
Address
Advance
Advertisement
Agent
Agreement
Answer
Apprentice
Asset
Gódi
Adavi
Noga
(no word)
Savukaratana va
Lekkavishaya.
Lekka
Bidugade
Arji or vilāsa
Mungada
Prakatane
Mutálika
Odambadike
Udárane
Abhyasisuvava
Jindagi
Phajindár, dzamindár Jamíndār [bid
Kuran Medán, ghāsnowädo,
Náñgar Hol £
Lání karnárá Dhálnár, kāpní kar-
Wilá Dâtarduñ, kāpní kar-
Wānun, or kätar-
wánum hathiyar
Táñdal Chokhā, bhāt [nár
Pernárá Wâwnar, ornár, rop-
Påwden, khoreń Påwado
Peñdhá Parál
Husban
£y
Landlord
Meadow
Plough
Reaper
Reaping-hook
Rice
Sower
Spade
Straw
Stack
Tenant
Vyavasāya
Gémegára
Neladayejamána
Holamála
Négilu
Koyyuvava
Kudugélu
Akki
Bittuvava
Guddali
Gódihullu
Mede
Okkalu
Vyavasāyamu Vivasāyam
Kamatagadu A!
Néla khāvandu Nilakkāram
Pachchika polamu Pulttarai
Nágali or araka Kalappai
Kotagadu or kodavali Arup paruk kiravan
Kalupu tisé ayud- Arival
hamu
Biyyamu gamu Arisi
Wittévādu or dzaddi- Wiraik kiravan
Salakapāra Manvetti
Gaddi Waik kól
Káda or todime Pór
Kapu or kapuramu Paykari
Shetkäm, krishikarm Khetino dhandho
Madzür, bigári Majár
Gañj, ganji, kumbheri Ganji, kundwun
Bhádekari, dhárekari, Ganotío, khedut
vundé vådu sárekari, kū!
Gódhumalu Kódumai Gahúñ Ghahuh werán
Adavi Kádu Osád dzāgā Jangal, padtarjamin,
Kádi Nukattadi Dzukad Jhusri
Woka araka yeddulu Orér kundai Dzot, dzodi Baladní kháñdh
*: : Säwakdri wa dzand Sāhukári anejame
inchi. khartz yd prakarni. kharchne hisób.
Lekka Kanakku Khâteñ Hisāb, khâtun
Chellu chiti Sellu chittu Phárakti, pharakhti Făragatí
Wilāsamu Mél vilāsam Pattà Tháñmokáñnuń.
Santsa kāramu Mun panam Agáà dilelã aiwaj, Ang upar or agáu
tagãi apwun, takäwi
Prakatana Wilambaram Dzáhirát Jáher khabar
Adatídàru Kumāstā Adtyá Adtiyo
Wodambadika Wudan padik kai Karár, karārnāmā Kabulat, karár
Javābu Padiluttaravu Dzawab Jawab, jabáp
Pani nértsukoné Vélai kattuk kollu Shāgird Shikádí
chimnavādu kiravan
Sammati Asti Punji Mál milkat


(~59 ‘O-LI '5[DYIE[]\U'(OO—-'S5lTHI'V'Ii1lIV{)0A
Goods
Grain
Handicraft
Import
Interest
Lease
Leisure
Letter
Loan
Loss
Manufacture
M arket
Memorandum
Merchant
Merchandize
Message
Money
Mortgage
Note
Overplus
Packet
Partner
Passport
Pa ment
Pe dler
Penalty
Plenty
Pledge
Post
Poverty
Samanu or jinasu Saruku
,Dhan a Dhanyamu
Kaike asa Shilpamu
A'madu Diguinati
BB-diii Vfldsii
Patte Kaulu or kararu
Savakasha Tirika
Khattu Uttaramu
Sala Cheyibadulu
N ashta N ashtamu
Utpatti Sétapani
Ba] am Baj aru
Yadastu Yadastu
Vartakanu Vartakudu
Vya arajinasu Vartakamu
Sud i Vartamananiu
Hana Riikalu
Adamana Takattu
Chiti Puréijii
Migate Petstsu
Tabalaku [garanu Katta
Bhagastanu or palu- Palikapu
Rahadari Rahadari
Sandaya Ivvadamu
Hakaru Hakaru
Danda Daiidana
Vistara Vistaramu
Adamana Takattu
Tapalu or aiiche Tapalu
Daridra or badatana D-aridriyamu
Sarakku
Taniyam
Kaivélai
Irakkumadi
Vatti
Kuttakai
Savak asam
Kadidam
Kadan
N ashtam
Se arkai ornl
Saiidai P P
Yadastu
Varttagan
Varttaga charakku
Solli Anuppudal
Panam
Adagu
Sittu
Vubari
Sippam
Panguk karan
Radari sittu
Pananjeluttudal
Tirindu vii-kiravan
Tagdam
Migudi
l’du
Tapal
Tnrittiram
Mal
Dhanya
Hatkani
Bandaraiit nial {inane
Byaj
Pata
Wel, phursat
Patr, chiththi, kagad
Usanwar
Tota, nuksani
Karkllana
Badzar
Yadi
V apari, udami
al
Nirop
Paika
Gama
Chithi, patr I
J asti, pha'i
Lhkhota J
Bhagidar, sarakati,
hissedar
Parwafia, dastak
Dene, bharne
Pheriwala
Gunhegari, daiid
Pushkal
Gahan, t'arai_i
Tapal. flak
Garibi
M al
Damian
mal lawawo
(of money) byaj, biaj;
(influence) wag wa-
silo
Pato
Fursad, fursat, aw-
kash, sawkash
Kagalpatr
Uchhinuii
Toto, nuksan
Karkhanuii
Ba'ar, chauiituii
I i
Wepari
Mal
Saiideso
N aiinuii, paisa
Gharenau, girwi
Chiththi patri
Baki, fajal
Lakhoto
Bhagiyo, paiityalo,
hissedar, paiitidar
Parwano
Bharnun, apwuii
Ferio
Gunhegari, daiid
Pushkal, ghanuii
Giro, san, hadap
1.>s1<,wi>a1
Garibi
[dliaiidho
Hathe kiini karwano
A'mdani, baiidarmaii


969
'9NI<IJlHS——I'IOHiIKKOD -'—'S1II'EY'Il1HVO0A
Exomsn.
Price
Principal
gofit
0 e
Ratg fly
Receipt
Rent
Sample
Scarcity
Seller
Shop
Signature
Sum-total
Trade
Trustee
Usage
Wages
‘Warehouse
Wealth
Wharf
Of S/nipping.
Anchor
Boat
Cable
Cargo
Commander of forces
Compass

Kamnnsn. TELUGU. Tamn.
Bele, dhzirane or kraya Vela Kirayam
Aaaln Asalu Mndar panam
Labha A'dayamu Labam.
Sottu Sottn Sottu
Dara Dhara Vidam
Rashidn Rasidu Pattfi chitlgu.
Bédige Adde Vadakai
Madari Madiri or méstarn Madiri
Bara Arudu Arumai
Marnvavanu Amrnévfidu Virkiravan
Angadi Angagli [kamu Kadai
Oppa or daskatu" Chevralu or santa- Kai yezhuttn
Aiitu Verasi Mottam
Vyapara Vartakamu Viya pararn
Jimmédara Sommntana-paramn- Poruppfili
ga-untsu konnavadn
Kchara A'ché.ramu Vazhakkam
Saihbala Jitamu Sambalam
Ugriina or kéthi Giddangi Sflmankidangu
Sampattu Bhagyamu Selvaru
A’madu raftina ghatta Dignmatirévu Yéttirakknmadi pan-
.. . , . . numidam
Jflhtljtgfl samcmu yert- Va-damn“ 9”"-1w” ' '
auva viphaya. ' '
Lafigaru Larigaru Nangfiram
Doni Padava Padagn
Langarnhagga Méku Amara kaylrn
Jahajina saraku Virglasaruku Kappa: sarakku
vayi
Sénadhipati or cialn- Adhikiiri Kappaladikfiri
Digdarshiyaiitra Kfmtapu sfldi Tisai arikaruvi
Guaamiri.
Kinmat
Muddal,m\il principle Mu1tatw,niyam,(prin-
motive), é_r,hetn ciple) karan, hetfi
Na ha Nafo,liibh,f-Eredo,h.’n'1-
M ' kat Mal milkat [sil
Manriijn i.
Kimat
Dar, bhéw [sid Bhaw, dar
Pawati, pohoiich, ra- Ponhonch,kahaj,rasid
Bhaqien Bhadun
Namuna N amnno
Kamtai Tangi, achhat
Wiknaré. Bechnar
Dukan Dukiin
Sahi Sahi, matnn
Ekaridar bcxij Knl, ckandar berii
Vyépar, udim, dliaiida Wspfir, ndyam, dliar'1-
o
Jimmedfir
Tsél,wahiwf	_, shiras- Siraato, mfimnlchal,
Jnmediir, jnmo lenar
ta wahiwat, dharo
Rojmnra pager Pagar majurf
Wakhar ’ Wakh,é.r
Danlat Dolat
Dhakka, ghat Danko, ghal;
Galbata sairzbafidh. Wdfihdfilt bdbat.
Naiigar [ter, hori Lafigar
Bot, machwa, naw, Bot, machhwo, hodi
Hamar Hamfir
Tarwawaxtsa mfil Wanhtmn npar cha-
rhawelo mél
Tandel Nakhudfi, tandel
Hoke. Hokayaiitr, hoko


'HOIlSfl1‘ (INV AXYI-—DNI<IdIHS—-'SHIHV'I£1HYO0A
Ferry-boat Haragolu Done 0'dam Tar Tar
Flag Kodi or nishtni Kodi Kodi Béwta, nishiin Wawato, nishtnn
Mast Naveya kamba Vfiglastambhamu Paymaram naivan I_)ol Dol
Mate no word) Zatakadu Kappladikarik uttu- Mfilim Malam
Car uttu Teddu Tandu Walen Halesun
Passenger Bhatesari [ arshva Bhfitasari Pirayanak karan Utarfi Utfiru
Prow Jahajina muk a Veda mundaritattu Kappalinmunpakkam N él Nal
Rope Hagga Tadu Kaylru Dor Doradun
Rudder Uttu Tsukkani Sukkan Sukén Sukan
Sail - Hayi Vadatsapa Kappa; pay Shir Sahad
Sailor Naviganu Védaviidu Kappalal Khalléshi, nfiwéri Kharwo, khalési
' Stem Tumbu Vadayokka mundari Kappal irupurat te- (Stern) Waram War€1m,c_iab\ino
bhagamu yum serkkung kat_t_ai
Twine Sanabina huri Dzanapuri Sana; kayiru Sutal Sutli
Voyage Samudra yima Sabaru [karra Kappal attirai Jul prawns, saphar Safar
Yard Adda mara Vadastambhapu adda Pay viri kumarand Parwan, kiithi Parban, kathi
Of law and Judicial .~Ka’m'mu on vyawalldra Nydya, .minba1idha- Kdyadd wa nydya Kdg/add tathd addlat
Matters. vighayagala kuritu. maina vighayamulu prakarni. prakarni.
Abuse Baigala Tittu Adikkira mittal Shiwi, gél ; (bad use), Gal; (to misuse), ger
. ' gair upyog rite anmal karwo
Acquittal Bidugadi Vidudala Vidndalai Sutne, muktata (to obtain) Chhuti ja-
Wu1'1;(to ronounce)
niraparé hi t_har-
[chara wun [chliinalufi
Adultery ‘ Hédara. or vyabhi- Vyabhicharamu Vipa saram Vyabhichtu Vyabhichiinbadkarm,
Amputation Angahinfi. miado-na Avayavawhchhédana- Anga sédanam Torne, kapne, ai1g- Aiigchhed, angkap-
, mu chhed wu1'1,sharirno koi
. awayaw kapwo
Arbitration Madhyasta Madhyasthamu Panjayattu Pantséjt Panchat, lawadi
Arbitrator Madhyastagara Madhyasthudn Punj ayattuk karan Pants, lawfid Panch, lawad
Attorney Vakilu Vakilu Vakil \Vakil W'akil
Award Tirpu Tirpu Tirppu Pantsétsa niwadti, Panchat némuri,
panchno tharaw
hukm namin, pair-
or chukiido
tséit ufim-"1


‘I-IOIISHI.‘ (IKV MV'I-—'SHIHY'Ifl€lYO0A
Legacy
Legatee
Murder
Murderer
N onsuit
Notice
Oath
Pardon
Per‘
Plaiiigf
Prison
Prisoner
Proof
Punishment
Quarrel
Reader
Respite
Right .
Scourge
Sentence
Suit
Summons
Testator
Theft
Thief
Tribunal
Sfiyuvfiga itta. fisti Marana shirsans. (xr- Marana sitdana porul Mritlekhdéui
vakamugfi iohc ina
sottu
Molrtyfirf prakfrra &s- Morena shasana pra- Marana sadana porul Mritlekhdénfidhikfiri Mritlekhdénédhikfiri
tiya tegadu kol_lu- karamu fistini pon- pettavan
Mritlekhdan
vavnnu dévfidu
Kole Khfmi Kolai Khxin Khfin
Kolemfididavanu. Khiini ehésinavaqlu Kolai Ali Khnni, khfin karnérh Khuni. khfinkarnfu
Nirvyajya. Vyajyamunu raddu Vazha kut tallunakai Namaiidziir (no word)
ehéyadamu
Istyéru Prakatana or yeruka. N otiee Sfichana, dzéliirat J éher khabar, suehné
Pramana Pramanamu Sattiyam Shapat Sam, sogan
Kshame or mannane Mannirhpu Mannippu Maphi, kshama Kshama, meff
Tappupraména Apramanamu Poy sfitehi Khoti shapat Khotji sam
Vfidi Vadi Vfidi Wadi Wadi, farfyadi
Kaidukhene Cheraséla Kaidu Kaid khaua Baridhf khanuii
Baudivfina or kaidi Kayidi Kaidi Kaidi Kedi
Ruju Ruzuvu Ruju Praman, pnriwt. Purawo, pramzin
Dandnne Shiksha. Tandanai Shiksha [dau Shikshfi, sa'é., nasfhat
Ja ala Dza adamu‘ Saeharavu Kadzzé, tanta, bhé.ri- Kajio, kaii es, klesh,
O’ uvavanu Cha ivévadu Padippavan Wiitsanfirs. Wiiiichnar [kalah
Tadedu i¢_i61_1a Tirpu nilipi pel_:1_:a- Kon_]a kalattukku Shikshechi tahkubi Mehetal
damn dandanai yai nirulb
vaittal
Hakku or badhyate Bfidh ata. Su dandiram Hakk Hak, kharun, séchun
Korade Korajz Adi Tsabiik, kordfa. Chabako, korglo
Shikshatfrpu or N a- Tirpu Tirmimam Shikshetsfz tharfiw Sajano tharfiw
shiduname
Vyavahfira or vyajya. Vyajyamu Viyfi ehiyam Mukaddama, lzhatla Mukardamo, khat_lo
Sammauu Talabu ehiti Sommous Samman Saman
Maranashasanagfira Marana shésanamu Morena sédanam Mritlekh kamaré Mrityu patr karnfiro
vrfisi tsachehévadu eshudi vaippavau
Kallatana Dongatanamu Tiruttu Tsori Chori
Kallanu Dongs Tirudan Tsor Cher
Nyayasthfina Nyaya sthalamu N iyeya stalam Adélat, nyaya sabha Adalat, nyiiya. sabba


#
Edict
Emperor
Empress
Excellency
Exchequer
Foreigner
Faction:
Nirápa
Chakravarti
Sárva bhaumini
Ghanate
Khajane
Paradéshadavanu
Bandukattu
Shāsanamu
Paradéshasthudu
Kakshi
Sattam
Sak kravarti
Irani
Sirappu
Pokkisha salai
Anniya désattán
Kátchi
dostí
Simá, hadd Hadd, sim
Chhat Chahdrawo, chhat
Rajdhání Rajdhání
Shahar Sheher, Nagar
Nänen Shikko, Nännun
Jásúd Jásud, jásus
Mukat Mugat, tàj -
Wansh am Wansh [náyab
Dharm Kám, kāmgiri, jakát
- dharm
Rājāgyá Rājāgyá, rājano
hukm, farmán
Pádshāhā Bădshahá [ráñni
Pádshähächi stri Bádshahání stri,
Rāja shri, alijá
Dzamábandichi ka-
cheri
Pardeshi manushya
Alijá, ráje shri
Jamá bandhini ka-
cherí
Pardeshi, pārakāń
rājnu männas
ENGLISH.
Trial
Will
Witness
Of Governments.
Ally
Ambassador
Authority
Alliance
Boundary
Canopy
Capital
City
Coin
Courier
Crown
Dynasty
Deputy
Duty
Gentleman
Granary
KANARESE.
Vicharane
Maranashásana
Sákshi
Dhoretanada vishaya.
Samākhyedāra
Rāvabhäri
Adhikāra
Samākhye
Sarahaddu
Asamānagiri
Rājadhani
Patna
Nánya
Harakāranu
Kirita
Rājyabhāra
Náyabu
Kelasa or terige
Doddamanushyanu
Kanaja
TELUGU.
Wichārana
Maranashāsanamu
Sákshi
Doratanamulanu
gurinchi.
Kattubaturádzu
Rāyabhäri
Adhikāramu
Wihitamu
Poliméra
Pandili
Rajadháni
Pattanamu
Nányamu
Harkárà
Kiritamu
Doratanamu
Náyabu
Pani
Chakravarti
Chakravartiyokka
bhārya
Shréshthta
Bokkasamu
Peddamanishi
Dhanyapukottu
TAMIL.
Wichāranai
Maramasádanam
Sātchik kāran
Ikkiyamána rajá
Stánádi padi
Adikáram
Wudandai
Yellai
Mera katti
Rāja dani
Pattanam
Nāniyam
Túdan
Kiridam
Rāja vamisam
Irandán durai
Aluval
Durai
Kalanjiyam
GUJARATí.
Tajwij, insáf, tapás
MARATHí.
Insáph, tsaukashi
Mrityu patr Wasiet nåmun
Sákshi Sahedi, sákshi
Rājya prakarni. Rajprakarni.
Dost Dost
Wakil Wakil, elchi [käri
Sattá, adhikár Sattà, adhikár, adhi-
Sangan mat, ek mat, Dosti, ek mat
[y
Wakil, karbhári, du-Wakil, kärbhāri,
Tat, phali, paksh Toli
Grihasth Grihasth [páluń
Kothar Kothar, dáñnáñnu


#
ENGLISH.
Subject
Throne
Titles
Town
Traitor
Treaty
Treasurer
Tribute
Traveller
Tyrant
. Usurper
Umbrella of state
Viceroy
Professions and
Trades.
Armorer
Artificer
Artist
Baker
Beggar
#ith
Bookseller
Brazier
Bricklayer
Butcher
Carpenter
Confectioner
Cook
KANARESE. TELUGU. TAMIL. MARATHí. GUJARATí.
Kulavu or okkalu Kapu Kudi Prajá, raiyat Raiyat, prajá
Simhāsanavu Simhāsanamu Singāsanam Sinhäsan Gádí, sinhäsan
Birudávaliyu Birudulu Pattam - Marátab, kitāb Kitāb, alkāb, marátab
Patnavu Pattanamu Pattanam Kasbá, shahar Kasbo, seher
Dróhiyu Dróhi Wanjagan Wishwās ghātaki, Fituri, fitur karnár,
rājdrohi wishwāsghātki,
rājdrohi
Odambadikeyu Samādhānamu Samādāna pattirikai Tahnāmā Tah, tahnāmuń.
Khajánjiyu or Bok- Khajánji Pokkishak karan Khajinadár, bhāhdāri *'. bhahdāri,
kasadavanu kilídàr
Kappavu or känike Kappamu Kappam Khandaní Khandani
Bhátesáriyu Bhātasäri Pattai sãri Prawási Musafar, prawási,
watemârgu
Janakantakanu Krirudu [du Kodungólarasan Dzulmi Julamgár
Apaháriyu Akramintsukonnavā- Abagarikkiravan Apahār karnárá Chhinwilenár
Rājachhatriyu Rājachhatramu Pú chakrak kudai Chhatr Chhatr
Divānanu Yuvaraja Arasanukku vadil Alu Radza pratinidhi Rajpratinidhi
kiravan
Vruttigalu va Wyd- Writtulu wydpdra- Dhanide wa kasab. Dhandd ane kasab.
pdragalu. mulu.
Ayudhagáranu Ayudhamulu chésé- Ayu danjey kiravan Shastra kär Hathiyar banāwanár
Yantragāranu Shilpi [vādu Sirpi Kárigar, shilpí Kárigar
Shilpakaranu Shilpi Sittira vélaik karan Kasbí, káràgir Kisabi, kasabi
Rottiyavanu Rottelukálchévādu Rotti kidangukkāran Bhājnárá, rotiwálá Bhathiaro
Bhikshakanu Bitsagádu Pichaik kāran Bhikari Bhikhari,mangan lok
Kammāranu Karamalavādu [du Karumán Lohár Luwhar [wechnár
Pustuká maruvavanu Pustakamulammévá- Pustagam virkiravan Pustake wikmárá Pustak or chopadi
Kanchugăranu Kantsaravadu Kannán Pitalechen kámkar-, Kansaro, pital kám
Kämätagăranu Tápigádu Kollattuk kāran Gawahdi [nárá Kadiyo [karnaro
Katikanu [nu Katikavadu Kasaykkaran Khātaki Khátaki
Ojanu orbadigeyava-Wadlavadu [vādu Tachan Sutar Suthár [mithäf walo
Mithayi garanu
Adige yavanu
Mithayichési ammé-Mittày kadaikkāran Mithaiwálá
- Supádiyohalwāiwálo,
Waitavadu. Samaiyalsey kiravan Swayampaki
Rasoiyo


989
‘O13 ‘SHEEN; 'I0OHOS1.h‘[OIIVOfl(K>[—'S1'l1'HV'Ifl€[VO0A
Enemsn.
Education
Exercise
Fable
History
Index
Ink
Leaf
Lecture
Lesson
Zlwrine
Iar 'n
Maxi;
P e
Pzier
Pen
Pencil
Pen-knife
Pasteboard
Play
Play-fellow
Play-ground
Poet
Preface
Professor
Prose
Proverb
Rule
Rh me
R0
Scholar
School
Kwanzaa.
Viddeyu
Sndhaka
Kattu kathe
Charitra.
Sfichi
She '
Banillu
Upanyasa
Patha
Pankti
Anchu
Paddhati
Puta
Kfigada
Pena
Shisada kaddi
Chfiri
Kfigadada atte
Kta
J otegiira l
A’tadasthala
Kavishvara
Pithike
Shikshakanu
Vachanakérvya
Gide
Sfitra
Prfisa
Kolu
Vidy'.'irthi or pandita
Siili


TELUGU.
Tsaduvu
Sadhakamu
Katha
"Charitra
Sfichi
Shiréi
(of a tree), éku; (of Yédu
a book), patramu
Prasangamu
Pathamu
Pankti
Pakka
Nitivékyamu
Puta, porata
Kakitamu
Péna
Pensalu
Tséku
Atta
Ata
A’¢_lukonév!u_lu
A’1_lukonéts6tu
Kavi
Pithika
Panditudu
Vachanamu
Sémita
Sritramu
Antaniyamamu
Bcttamu
Vidyérthi
Bmli
n."|n.z.|.......
TAMIL. l\LsnXrn1.
Paljlippu Shiksha
A i ésam Ahh {us
Kggtiikkadai Goslit, katha
Sarittiram Itihés, bakhar
Attavanai Anukramaniké.
Mai Shai
Patr, pfin
Vupaniyasam V fikhyan
Pfidam D are, path
Vari Re h, ol
O'ram Ra ans, kénth
Pazhamozhi Mhan, wachan
Pakkam Prishth
Kadudasi Kégad
Pénfii Lekhni
Pensil Pensil
Peniikatti Tsakfi
Attai Jana kagad
Vilaiyfittu Khel
Vilaiyfittu tozhan Khelgadi
Vilai yadagira idam Khelnyéchi dzégfi
Kavirayan Kawi
Mugavurai Prastawann
A’siriyan Widya guru
Vésagam Gadya géthfi
Nidimozhi Mhan, anti
Sfittiram Riti, kanu
Yednkai Yamak
Tendippukrkél Chhadi, knthi
Pallik lrddattup pillai Shishya
Pallik kfidam Shela


Guuni-rf.
Kelawani, widya,
shiksha
Abhyas
\Vat [rfkh
Itihfis, bakhar, tawn-
Anukramanikfi, sank-
liyun
Shéhi, rushnai
Panun, patrun
Vyakhybn, bhfishan
D a_ro, path
Liti, ol, pankti, har
Hénsio
Kehewat, wachan
Prishth, safo
Kagal
Kalam
Pensil
Chakhu
J ado kiigal
Ramat, khel
Bhilu
Ramawani jaga
Kawi
Prastawana, dibacho
Widyii guru
Gadya, gnthfv.
Kehewat
Riti, kéinun
Thnmak
Chhari, lfikri
NlSll5.llyfl, shishya
N|sl|.’1l


#
-v
School-hours
School-master
Section
Student
Teaching
Tutor
Verse
Writing
Word
Colors.
Black
Blue
Brown
Dun
Green
Indigo
Lilac
Orange
Purple
£"
Scarlet
Spotted
Striped
Wermilion
White
Yellow
The Senses.
Hearing
Seeing
Sáleya vélegalu
Upādhyāyanu
Prakarana
Vidyarthi
Kalisóna
Pantóji
Shlóka or pada
Baraha
Mátu
Bainagalu.
Kari Varna
Níla varna
Shyamala varna
Búda varna
Hasaruvarna
Nila varna
Kágu varna
Badikálamu
Upādhyāyulu
Sanchika
Vidyarthi
Nérpadamu
Upādhyāyudu
Padyamu
Vrâta
Máta
Rangulu.
Nalupu
Nilavarmamu
Pandutákuvarnamu
Kapila
Akupatstsa
Nílivarmamu [mu
Dásánipuvvu varna-
Nimbe hannina varna Tsótákichchilipandu
Udá varna
Kehcha varna
Sindhüra varna
Machcheyulla
Gerehākida
Ingalika
Bili varna
Haladivarna
Indriyagalu.
Shrötréñdriva
Chakshurindriya
Varmamu
Udavarmamu
Yerupu
Sindüravarmamu
Tsukkalugala
Gítaluvéyabadda
Ingilikapuvarnamu
Telupu
Pasupu
Indriyamulu.
Vinadamu
Tsádadamu
Pallik kadattuvélai
Wattiyár
Pirivu
Mának kan
Karpittal
Karpikkirávan
Páttu
Yezhuttu
Wärttai
Karuppu
Níla niram
Pazhuppu niram
Mangal niram
Pachai
Nílam
Wen sevappu
Ponniram
Indira nilam
Sevappu
Irat támbaram
Karai
Kiru
Sádi linga niram
Wenmai
Manjal niram
O'sai
Oli
Sháletsä wel
Pantoji
Kalam
Widyarthi
Shikawine, parhawine
Shikawinárá, shik-
shak
Padya, kawitā, charan
Lihine, hastákshar
Shabd
Rang.
Kálá
Asmání
Udi, badámi, tapkiri
Dzardà
Hirwa
Nilá
Dzámblá
Nārangi
Bainganí
Tambadá, lál
Rakt
Bibata, tipkedár
Pattedár
Hinglyásárikhâ
Pándhrá
Piwalá
Indriyeti.
Shrotra
Chakshu
Nishální wakhat
Mehetàjí
Kalam
Widyarth:1
Shikhawawun,bhaná-
Wawun
Shikshak, shikhawa-
nár
Kawità, padya, charan
Lekh, akshar, daskat,
dastawej
Shabd, bol, sukhan
Raig.
Kálo, káluń, káli
Asmání
Badami, tapkhiriyá
Jardo
Lilo, jangári
Galíno, nilo
Jambuo
Nárangi
Wenganí
Lál, räto
Rakt
Butídàr
Patedár
Hinglokno
Dholo, sapet, safet
Pilo
Indriyo.
Shrotra
Chakshu


OF LANDING AND GOING T0 AN HOTEL. 5>ll
Tum.
Karin’ irangi sattirattukku
pogiradai kurittu.
[gavénum.
Nan karaikku irangi po-
Idu vunnuqlai ap padaga?
Yennai karai ku ittukor_i-
du pévaya?
Ni yennak két pay P
Inda pottigalelilam yennu-
daiyadu.
Avagalai padagi léttu.
Inreya. dinam alai balama
iruk kirada P
Ni r6tt_a madigama iruk
kirada P
Karaik kittuk kondu péga
yennéram sellenu.
Yenak koru savvari vénilm
Yennai sattirattukku ittu-
kondu 6.
Yedu nettiyana sattiramP
Adu yevvalavu diiram P
Adn enda teruviliruk
kiradu P
Sikkirarnafipo, pallakkai
kulukka e.
Pallakkai yedu.
Adai irakku
Adai nizhalilévaiyi.
Tattigalengé irukkinranai
Avagalin éril tanriir
Ti vattik ara, yenak ku-
man male odu.
Yennayin azhukkai cru-
pakkattilvai.
Ti vattiyin sudarai yen
mnkattil pada diruk-
kattum.
Nan palana durai vittil
yiluruk kavénum.
Ni sattirattukku poyaiyil
kiippidu.
N iyayamana kiili ai tavira
adigamay kodu ka mat-
ten.
Kidniatgaré, indamanida-
rukku seluttip p6<_lu.
Ni yadigam kétppayanal
miyadipadikku piriyadu
seyven.
M.in.i"_riii.
Utaran porits/cha'n_1/a'1it
dzdnydoishyfri.
[ahe.
Mala kinariii dzavyaclieii
Hi tujhi bot ahe P
Tiiii mala kinariii nesil P
Tiiii kay gheshilé
Ya sarv petya majhya
ahet.
Tya botiiit ghal.
Adz lata mothya ahct.
Panyas phar bin ahe.
Kaiithiii dzanyas kiti wel
lagel P
Mala palkhi pahije.
Mala potskhanyaiit ne.
Sarvahfin tsaiigla
kliana koritai
To kiti diir aheP
To kothle rastyawar ahei‘
pots-
Lawkar tsala, paraiitu pal-
khis hiske dci'ir'i naka.
Palkhi utsla.
Utara.
Tila chliayeiit thewa.
Walyache parde kothe
ahct P
T aiiwar pani shiinpa.
ashalchi majhe purheii
dzara tsal.
Waryache samorche dishe-
kade tiiii raha.
Mash al majllie toiidapurheil
ai_i(i1'i na 0.
Mala-—-else ghariii utai'a-
'acheii ahe.
P0‘i,vSlil1fiIlY5.i1li dzatana te-
theii tsala. t
Nirkhaliiin mi dzasti deijiar
nahi.
Khidmatgar l ya manuall-
yaiiche paise tsukiv.
Tuhmi adhik magal tar mi
majistretakade phiryad
kariii.
GI.’-I.\R.§'!'i-'
7Vd1i/ninnzdnl/ii ntarine
1100,!/C]!-(ill? jaw-a’ bdbat.
Mhare kiuarc jawuii chhe.
K tamaro hodi chhe? -
Tun mane kinare lei jashe P
Tun shun leshe P '
H saghli peti rnhari chhe.
Teone hodimaii miik.
Aije pannini gharii chhol
mare chhe P
Aje pan'i_i’iui ghani tan
chhe P
Kafithe utarwanc kctli iviir
lagslie?
'Mhare palkhi joie.
Mhane pochkhane lei jii.
Sarva kartaii saruii pocli-
khanuii kn ufi chhe?
Te ketluii ag uii chhe?
Te kaya rasta upar clilie?
J aldi chalo, pan pallahi
halawo man.
Palkhi uiichako.
Utaro.
Tene sole rakho.
Walana parda karlh-.'n'i
chhe?
Teoni upar paiini clihafito.
Masalchi, jara mari agal
chal.
J e tarafthi pawan awato
nathi te tarai’ rclie.
Masalni jhal mhara mho-
daiiupar awawa nahi dc.
Mhare falannaiine taiihan
utarwuii chhe.
Pochkhane jataii taiiliaii
thaine ja)']o.
Huii nirak kartaii wad-
hare apish nahi.
Khidmat ar, amaiinasoiifi
paisa c ukwi ap.
Tame wattuii niagsho to
huii magistretne ty:'in-
hail phariyad karisli.
2%


~_
542
Exeusn.
Hold your tongue.
Go about your business.
Let one speak at a time.
Don't say another word.
Of II £1-ing Servants.
What is your name P
Of what caste are you?
I am in want of a servant.
\Vhat wages do you re-
quire P
I will not give so much.
With whom did you live
lust P
How long were you with
that gentleman?
Have you a character from
him P
Have you any objection to
travel?
Have you any friends who
will be surety for you?
You must keep exact ac-
counts.
Write down all that is ex-
pended.
Don’t omit the smallest
item.
I agree to take you.
I will give you a trial.
Of Dressing and Washing.
Call me early.
Call me at five, or a quar-
ter-past.
Have water ready for a
bath.
Have some warm water
ready.
Let the water be as cold as
possible.
DIALOGUES I
Kanannsn.
N innabayi muehehiko.
N inna kelasakke hogu.
Sartige obba matadali.
Mattondn matu hélabéda.
Nau/carara kziliye s'§_tulco_l-
_luoada kuritu.
Ninna hesarénu P
Ninu y9.va'§1ti?
Nanage ob a chakara béku
Nineshtu sambala kélut-
tiyei
Nanu asht_u kodenu.
Ninu yidakke muiiche ya.-
raliatra yiddi?
Ninu a sahébarabalili esh-
tukala iddi .>
Ninu avariiida 6giyata-
patrikctegadu ondiyai
Pa anakke ninage yéna-
aru a(_l(_l1vu1'1t_6 P
N inage j ami nu koduva sné-
hitaru yaradarii vunté P
Ninusariy agi lekhkha yida
béku.
Kharchaddafmella bari.
Atyafita chillure babaiinu
saha bida bédn.
Ninna ittukolluvadu na-
nage safnmati.
Nauu ninage kelasa kottu
nodutténe.
Unjozta ea sndmi md¢_l61_uz.
Naiina nasikke yebbisu.
N aima. aidugantege a
aidnkalu gantege yeh-
bisu.
Snanakke niru siddha pa-
disu.
Swalpa bishi nirn tnyaru
madu.
A niru kfididashtu taniiage
yirali.
Tnnuov.
N orumuyyi.
Ni pani tsfitsukoui nivu
p6, or idi ni zéli kadu.
Wglfarokaruga matladan-
1.
Badulu mata matladaku.
Naukarlanu kudurtsu ko-
vaqiamunu gurincbi.
Ni pérémi P
Nivu yékulasthuclavu P
Maku woka naukaru kara-
lenu.
N ivu yenta jitamu adugu-
tavu P
N énu aiita ivvanu.
Iiitaku mnizdu nivu yevari
vadda koluvn untivi 9
Kdoravadda nivu yenniallu
nntivi P
Kyana vadda nivn y6gya-
tapatrika tisukoni un-
nava 9
Déshamulu tiragaqlanaku
niku yémaiua akshé-
pana kadda?
Ni snéhitulalo yevaraina
niku zaminu istara?
Nivu lekkalu sarigga pet-
tavalenn.
Khirtau ainadanta vrasi
Pei?“-
Yenta chinna paddunayina
vadili petta vaddu.
Ninnu u1'1tsuk6va<_iamuna-
ku maku samma tamé.
N innu konnalla daka un-
tsukoni tsustamu.
Ba_t_taluve'auko'va¢_1amu ma’-
munu chéyadanzu, vé_tz'm‘
guririchi.
Mammuna endaladelépu.
Aidu aidnmpkalu ghantaku
lépu.
Snananiki nillu siddhamu
chéyi.
Konchemu vénnilln sidd-
hamu cheyyi.
Nillu yenta tsallaga ufité
unta manchidi.


nnrssme, WASHING, 1:10. .045
I’
TAMLL.
Maski lirundu tar_1r_1ir viittu.
Kulikkaiyi ludutti kollu-
giru kal sattai yenge P
Onru get_t_iyum, onru me
duvumanu irar_1c_lu tuva-
laigalai konduva.
Orupétttiramum savukka-
ramum konqluvfi.
Yenkainpéril tar_u_1ir vidu.
Savaragariai varaehollu.
Nfindane savuram seydu
kolvén.
Kattigalum tittugira varu
menge P
Yen mayir karuvigalai
té<_lu. _ _
Yen sattaiyai tudai.
Yeuak koru kamisaiyum
kal mejottayum kodu.
Yen sappattai tédi yedu
Idu vella yalla.
Idu migavum azhukka-
yiruk kiradu.
Vannane kiippudu.
Inda mdupgugalai amni-
dattil p6_u.
Vuduppugalai yennu.
Adiga jakkir adaiyay iruk-
kamalponal tallip po-
duvén.
Oru vellai sattayayum ven-
rnaiyana sappfittéyum
veliyilvai.
Ni kosa valaiyai podugira
munnale tuvalai néle
kosukkalai yellém o’§t_u.
Mamjattin kalgalil e-
rumbu varadap padi ki
tannirin peril val.
Péyigal ira muzhuvadum
pangavai izhukkavén-
gium.
ltianrirui.
Masketiin ten mnjhyawar
Ot.
Majhi snan karnyachi ijiir
kothe ahe P
Ek dzara, ani ek maii ase
don swaehha t_uwé.l_f1u.
Tast wa saban an.
Majhe hatawar paniot.
Nah ale en as sa_ .
Malfrywatalenykifi mlilgéple
hfitin hajfimat karin tar
baren.
Wastre wa palatane kothe
ahe P
Mfijhe bares kothe abet
te paha.
Majhe dagalyés barés
mar.
Mala swachba khamis wa
pae moje de.
Majhiii sapaten shodhiin
karh.
Hen saph nahi.
Hen phar malkat fihe.
Dhobyés yenyfis sfuig.
Hiii wastren tyas de,
Tin kitin ahet tin moz.
To fidhik mehnat na gheil
tar mi tyés kfirhfin tfikin.
Pa.i1(_lhre1'1 da len fini sfiph
dzoden kér fin thew.
Maehhardani band kan_1y-
éehe pfirvin tuiiwalaue
sarv maehhr haiikfin
karh.
Muiigya tsarhfinnyet mha-
nun palaiigéche pay
pan iu'1tt_he. _
Ham ane sarv ratr pan-
kha orhala pahijet.
GIJJARATI.
Masakmfirlthi mhari upar
. red.
Mhari nahawani ij or kan-
hfui ehhe P
Ek jade ane ek naram
ewn be staph rumal law.
Cingli ane sabu law.
Mhfira hath upar p£u'n_n'
red.
Ha'amne awawane kehe.
Hun mhérri melej haja-
mat karish to saruii.
Astra ane tapasiyuii (strap)
kixilhiiil ehhe P
Mharéii barns kiulhiin
ehhe te jo.
‘Mhara glaglane barbs mar.
Mhane siiph khamis ane
pagnén mo'ax'1 hp.
Mhari sapfit s odhi kahéid.
A toisaph nathi.
A bahu meluii ehhe.
Dhobine awawaue kaho.
A lugadén tene hp.
Te ketlfiii ehhe te gan.
Te watti mehenet nahi
karshe to hun tene ka-
hfidi mukish.
Dholun waskut ane saph
jodfi béhar kahédi muk.
Machhardéni baridh kartaii
elieléui tuwale karine
adha maehhar hiuiki
karh.
Palangna paiya piilinimfaiz
muko et_le kidi na eharhe.
Bhoioe akbi rat paiikho
khenehwo joie.


MEALS AND DINING OUT,
549
TAMIL,
Anda turaikku oru katti-
yum mullum karandi-
yum kodu,
Avarukku oru tattungkóp-
payung kodu,
Angenallapálédumténum
pazhamum irukkiradu
pattiram.
Palai mugaráde.
Käppik kottainallay va-
ruppadavidu millai idip-
padavu millai pattiram.
Sūdāda, yenakku mana-
dirukkiradu. -
Nán säppidugira pódu an-
danda vastávin pér
chollu.
Idu ortolan, snipe, kuyi-
lenrum kavudari yen-
rum, florican yenrum,
chollu.
Irattiri mamisamum panni
todayu menge *
Té tanni pâttirattai itta-
laiyilung, kāppi patti-
rattai attalaiy ilung
vuppu Sisak kalai pak-
kang kalilum vai.
Rotti kettadum tavudu
māga irukkudu.
Nánveliyilépagal sappádu
sáppida pogirén,
Ini nán póga véndiya
yidattai povigalukku
chollu.
Oru pégi, oru tivattiyai
Y' lândalaiyavadu
ondu pogattum.
Yenakku pinnále irundu
# véndiyadugalai
odakkapár.
Oru gilásu vuyin yenakku
kodu,
Ange vellai chārāyamum
Segappu, charayåmum
irukkirada?
Kilasil avvalavu niraiya
vidade,
MARATHí.
Tyå grihasthās surí, wa
kantá wa tsamtsä de.
Tyás ek swachh pyälä wa
bashi de.
Tsängli malai, wa madh,
wa phaleh tayar thew.
Dudhás dhurakatawtin
nako.
Káphis karapawúñ deóñ
mako, äni tí tsāńgli
da!íw.
Shikār ānaleli sãmpadel
tartsängli.
Mi ek ek padārth khát
dzāin tasen tyáchen
malá náw sång.
Há ortolan ähe, kińwá
snáip ahe, kinwá láwá
ahe, kinwá titar ahe,
kińwá florican ähe, asen
sáñgat dzā.
Thande máñs, wa ham
kothe āhe .
Tsáhádání yethen thew
wa kāwādāni palikadle
shewatás thew, wa ni-
makdānibádzús thew.
Páñw wait, wa katsakachit
ahe.
*: jewäwyás dzát
Gn.
Kothe dzāwyácheñáhe ten
hamáláñs sång.
Mashälkinwä kandyáekás
ghenyás sång.
Aikaleńs? tai májhe khur-
chíche pathimágenubhá
rāhan malājehlägel ty-
achi tajwijthew.
Malá waín dárüchen ek
glás de.
Tâmbadi wa páñdhrí yá
donhi dzátítsä wain
âhet 3
Glás itken agdin bharúñ
nako.
GUJARATí.
Te grihasthne chhari,
káñto ane chamcho ap.
Tene ek sojun pyäluń ame
rikábí ap.
Sárimalai,madh, anemewo
taiyar rākhje hoñ.
Dadhne dhumádo lágwā
detoná.
Käfine balí jawa detono;
ane te sari jhinni dala-
w]e.
Kain āńnelo sikār male to
såruń.
Huñkhātojáuñtemmhane
dar ek, janasmuń nám
kehetojá.
A ortolan chhe, athwá
snaipchhe, athwālāwarí
chhe, athwá titar chhe,
athwá florikan chhe, em
keheto já. *
Thando gost anehåm kān-
háñ chhe 3
Chahādāni ahiyán muk,
kāwādání pele chhede,
ane nimakdáñni bajue
muk.
Páñuñ matháruń ane kas-
tarwäluń chhe.
Huń bähär jamwä jäuñ
chhauñ.
Káñháñjawun te hamálne
kehe.
Ek janne masal agar fanas
lewānun kehe,
Sambhalyuń alyá, tun
khurshini pâchhal ubbo
râhinemhaneje joie tení
tajwijrākh.
Mhane wain dárunun ek
glás àp 3
Dholo ane râto ehenjātno
wain chhe *
Glås etluń badhuń bhar-
toná,


550
DIALOGUES :
ENGLISH.
That is enough.
Bring me a tumbler of
Water.
Get me some chicken.
No more, I thank you.
Hand me the vegetables.
Give me pepper, mustard,
vinegar, and salt.
Give me a glass of beer
after the curry.
Give me the rice.
Give me a small plate for
the cheese.
Where is the butter-knife?
Cool the wine with salt-
petre.
Ice the water and the soda
Water.
Of a Journey.
I am going to Allahabad
to-morrow.
I shall go by dåk.
Where is the post-office 3
I want bearers t
What must I pay?
Must I give largesse ?
What is the custom ?
Give me a receipt.
Tell the bearers their re-
ward depends on their
conduct.
If they go quick they shall
be # paid.
KANARESE.
Adu sāku.
Nanage voidu dodda gåji
batlu niru tegadu kondu
bá.
Nanage tusa kólimarí tá.
Iñnubéda, ninage vandaná
mădutténe.
Nanage käyi palyagalañnu
kodu.
Nanage menasi sãsuveyá
kádiyá uppū kodu,
Palyá vuñda méli manage
voñdu găji batlu bir
sārāyā kodu.
Nanage anná kodu,
Junnu geddege manage
voñduchikkatatteyannu
kodu,
Benneya chari yelli ?
Kadduppininda drákshi
sárayavannu tampáyisu.
(Unknown).
Prayanavakuritu.
Nánu nále Allahābādige
hógutténe.
Nánu tapálinalli högut-
téne.
Añchékachéri yelli?
Phaláni sthalakku manage
bestaru béku.
Nanu yénu kodabéku ?
Nánu yinám kodabékó *
Paddhati hyáge? [kodu,
Nanage voidu rashidu
Inámu awara nadavadike-
yannu hididu, yidhe
yeñta bestarige hélu.
Avaru churukági hôdare
avarige chandági ko-
duve.
TELUGU.
Adi tsalunu.
Woka tamblaru nillu tisu-
koni rā.
Máku kódipillala kara
koñchemu té.
Inta tsälunóí.
A kāya kāralu itlá té.
Miriyalu, ävälu, kádi, uppu
iyyi.
Kára tinna tarwāta woka
glásu biru sārāyite.
Annamu té.
Dzunnugaddapettadānaku
woka chinna pallemu
iyy1.
Venna tisé kattiyekkada?
Surékárapunillalówoyenu
sārāyi buddi petti tsal-
lagā undétattu cheyyi.
I nillanunnu sódávátaru-
nunnumantsugaddu nil-
laló unchi tsallagá un-
détattu cheyyi.
Praydnamunu gurinichi.
Mému répu Alahābāduku
ôtámu.
Mému anchela mida pó-
támu.
Tapáláphisu yekkada 3
Phaláni tsótiki máku b6-
élu kāvalenu.
Mémémiivvavalasinadi ?
Mému bahumánamu ivva-
valená 3
Māmalu yetlà '
Mákoka rasíduiyyi.
Bóyilato váru nadutsu kö-
Vadamunaku taginattu
vāriki'bahumánamuivva
badunani cheppu,
Váru twaragā pôté váriki
manchi bahumänamu
ippiñtsabadunu.


5
- 10IAiOGUES :
ENGLISH.
If they put the palki down
to rest one or two must
remain with it.
Havedone with your smok-
ing and go on.
As you value your place
see that there is a torch-
bearer with each set.
See that he has abundance
of oil for each stage.
How far is it to
What sort of road is it?
?
Are there any rivers or
water-courses }
Can they be crossed, and
if so, how?
Are there plenty of sup-
plies at each station ?
What kinds of food are
there?
Is there good and whole-
some water ?
Is this water from a tank,
river, or well ?
Shew me where you got it.
What is the name of that
village, fort, or moun-
tain?
What temple or mosque
is that ?
Is there a European banglá
or a native inn for tra-
vellers?
Is this bed clean?
Are there any #. fleas,
or other insects
Is there any epidemic in
the village 3
KANARESE.
Avaru talárishi kolluva-
dakke pálkiyañnukelage
ittare obbanu yā ibbaru
adara hatra irabéku.
Ninu hogébattiyañnu nil-
lisi mundakke nadi.
Niñna udyógadalli ninage
ashe #: jote :
dakkevobba mashäljiya
yirisu.
Prati majiligó avanalli
tumba yenne yiruva
hánge mädu.
– adu yeshtu dára
dhe *
A: yenthá dári ?
Alli nadigalu kaluvegalu
yāvadādari unté »
Avugalannu dáta küdite,
hangādare hyánge?
Prati majilinallá padār-
thagalu bahalavági
aveyé *
Alliyâva bagé àháragalu
iruttave *
Alliollé àrógyavāda niru
idheyé !
I niru kerédé, holédó, yá
bhávidó 2
Aduninage shikkida stha-
lavannu manage törisu.
Agrámada, kóteya, yá par-
vatada hesarénu ?
Aduyávagudi,yámashidi ?
Alli bhātesárigalige in-
aríjara bangale yágali
# ti satra vågali irut-
tadeyé?
I hashige chökatavágid-
heyé *
Alli tigane küre yá béré
hulagaluénadarüaveyé?
I grāmadalli antu vyādhi
nādaru untó 3
TELUGU,
Badalika tirtsukóvadamu-
naku palaki tagginat-
taitéwokadu iddaru dáni
vadda undavalasinadi.
Pogatsuttalu tägadam tsā-
£ nadavandí.
Níkuudyógamu mida lak-
Shyamu unté àyá dzata
bóyilatówokamashálchi
uñdélágujāgratacheyyi.
Prati majiliki kävalasin-
anta tsamuru Vânivadda
tinnadá tstidu.
adiyeñta daramu?
A bhāta yetuvantidi ?
Akkadayéllu kaluvaluyé-
mainá unnavá 8
Wâtini dáti póvatsuna atlá
aité yetlá data vala-
sinadi"?
Prati majilílónunnu kāva-
lasinańta sámagri doru-
kuna 3
Yé tarahá áhára vastuvulu
dorukunu ?
Akkada manchi ärögya-
maina nillu unnavá #
Idi guita millá, yéti ni lá,
bávinillá *
Adiyekkadi nunchi tech-
chinávó tsapu.
A viri péru, kóta péru,
konda péru yémi ?
Adiyémi gudi, léka yémi
masídu ?
Akkadabhātasărlugă undé
doralu digadánakuban-
# gāni mallaváñdlu
igadánaku satramu-
gāni unnadá 3
I parupu dulipinadéná ?
Añduló nallulu gāni min-
nallulu gāni purugulu
gāniyémainá unnava?
I válló jādyalu yématná
kalavá 3


554
DIALOGUES I
ENGLISH.
Is there sm all-pox, cholera,
or fever P
Is this a healthy place?
Is it so now?
Has any sick person slept
on this bed lately P
What was his ailment?
Call the sweeper and let
him clean the place.
Take care where you pitch
the tent.
Let it be in a dry place.
Are there any snakes, scor-
ions, or other reptiles
ere P
Ishall ride this stage in
preference.
Of Sickness and consulting
a Doctor.
What is the matter with
you P
I have got a fever. _
When were you taken ill?
Last night at bed-time.
What do you complain of P
I have great pain and
giddiness in the head.
My‘ skin is ver hot, and I
ave great t ii-st.
Let me feel your pulse P
Shew me your tongue P
Have you a bad taste in
your mouth?
Yes; I have great clam-
mincss and a very bitter
taste in the morning.
Karznnnsn.
Illi shidubu, vantihhédi,
ya, jwara unt_6 P
Idu arogyavada sthalavé P
Adu yiga hiige idheyé P
Munche yi hashigeméle
yéiva yyadhista néidara
malagi kondu iddané P
Avana jadyavénu P
Jhaqlmfiliyannu kari, avanu
i sthalavannu gudisali.
Takka sthaléi nédi gudéra
hodisu.
Adu onagida sthaladalli
irali.
Illi énadarifi ha alu
chelugalu ya yitura Jan-
tugalu vunté P
Nanu yi majilige viBhé-
shavagi kuduré savfiri
madutténe.
Vyddlziyarinii vaidya non-
digo mdtdgidnavannii
kuritu.
Ninage mai yénu P
N anage j wara.
Ninagf yavfiga kfiyile kn-
r_iis ituP
Ninne rfitri malaguviiga.
Ninage yiga yénfigi yidhe?
Nanage bahala talenévfi
inayakavfi iigi yidhc.
Nanage déha bahala tapa-
vagiyfi hahu béyarike
yagiyfi yidhe.
Ninna dhiitu no1_lalisuP
Ninna nélige yaiinu nanage
tbrisu P
N innabiiyikaiyagi i<lhey6 P
Havudu nanage belig e
bayi ibahala 8D.t§g?yy(l
kaiiigiyfi idhe.
Tswov.
Mash fichakamu, marzi<_li',
léka jwaralu unnavii P
Idi saukhyamaina. sthala-
ména P
Ippurlu saukhyamuga un-
nadé. P
Itivala régishthi yevzi.-
dainéi i-padakamida
paiidukonniiiléi P
Vadiki yémi vytidhi 9
Jhedumélini pilichi i
sthalamu uiltsamanu.
Déra yekkaqla kottistfivé
bhadram.
Poqli nélanu kot_t_ii'itsu.
Ikkada yémainé. pémulu
téllu, léka, itaramaina
paké jantuvulu unnava?
I’ mejililé gurrapu savfiri
cheya gc'>rutunné.uu.
Vydd/14', vzu'dyu¢_lt'k4' lsi'zpa-
daniu m'_lt'm' guri1icI_u'.
Nfku wollu yémi?
Nfiku jwarnmu tagilinadi.
Niku yepgudu jwaramu
tagilina i?
Ram paduké boyyét_ap-
udu.
Ni u iindé bhiidha yémi?
Nfitala tiriigutii nilidfi nop-
pigé. unnadi.
N fa wollu ninda kagutii
naku vidfihamuga un-
nadi.
Ni’ dhatuvu tsudani P
Ni néluka tsfipu P
Ni norii chéduga unnadii?
Avunu tellavari pfita nu
néru niiidéi jigatagfi-
nunnu katika chédug6_
nunnu untuunadi.
4 l


SICKNESS.
557
TAMIL.
Wayattil yedavudu nóvu
vunda?
Am iráttiri oru diram ván-
dip panninén.
Wunakkup pasi yirukki-
radá 3
Inetta konjam sappitta #.
guvândi yágip pégudu,
Wayattil kólá rilla diruk-
kiradá P
Yenakku mala banda mi-
rukkiradá.
Ní yeppódu salavādaik-
kirunday?
Inrukálamé.
Wunadu avayavangalil
nóvirukkiradā >
Talai vali tavira véré nó-
villai.
Ni vândikki yeduttukkol-
lavenum.
Inda talai oru kóppai ja-
lattil karai.
Ippó £ kálmani
poruttu inda avizh dat-
tinálvunakku vupattira
millá dirundal matta-
pangeyum sappidu.
Wunakkuvupattiramkanda
mattirattil adigamay
vāndi yagumbadikku
irandu alladu mūnru
kóppai sudu tannir
kudi.
Nányennasáppidavénam?
Anamung kanjiyuntavira
véronrusappidavéndām.
Adiga vastirangal póttu
póttuk kolládí.
Yunnar kadiya mattu sa-
lavaiya yirukkappár.
Ráttirikku marupadiyum
yunnai van dupár kirén.
Wiyädikkaranukku inda
rendu mattirai yaipa-
dukkain pódum nála
kálamaikku inda avizh
dattéyuna kodu,
MARATHí.
Tumche potáñt dawalten ?
Hoy, kál rātriñ mi ekadán
okalon.
Tumhās bhak lágte *
Thorkilágte anijeñwalyā-
war potáñt dhawalten.
Tumhás parsåkades săph
hoteñ ?
Mádzhá kothá thorkäsä
kabaz àhe.
Tumhas parsákade kew-
háñ dzhälen hoten ?
Adz sakälin.
Tumche hát páe dukhtát?
Doken måtr dukhteh.
Tumhás ultichen aushadh
ghetleń påhije.
Hibhukipyálá bhar thand
pányáñt milwā.
Ardhen åtåh pyā āni pan-
dhrá minità nahtar tum-
che potânt kalmalaleń
nāhitarbäkicheñardhen
pyä. - -
Tumche potáñt kalmalúñ
láglen mhanje wantí
tsängli honyá karitáñ
don tin pyäle ushn pání
pyå.
Mikāy khá'ín 3
Adz tumhín káhin khâûn
naká, pejwa káñjí pyá.
Pushkal páñghraneghean
naká
Tumtsane ápanás jitken
thand råkhwel titken
rākhā.
Rātris tumchi mi punah
khabar ghein.
Adzári manushyás nijte
welin don golyá dyá áni
udyáñsakálín pinyacheñ
aushadh pájá.
GUJARATí.
Tamárá petman doholáe
chhe *
Há; kále râtre hum ek
wár okyo.
Tamne bhūkhläge chhe *
Thodi thodi láge chhe, ane
jamyá £" jiwarchú
thäe chhe.
f
Tamne jhādo saru thae
chhe *
Mháro kotho jará kabaj
chhe.
Tamne jhādo kyáre thayo
hato ?
Ajsawáre.
Tamárá hath pag dukhe
chhe P
Ekluń máthuń dukhe chhe.
Tamáre ultinum osad khá-
wun joie.
A bhaki pyáláñ bhar tād-
háñ pånnimán melaw.
Ardhun hamnán pio ane
pandarminitmáñtamárá
petmáñ kalmale nahin
to bàkinun pile,
Tamárán petmáñ kalmal-
wämände etlesári pethe
okári thawá sáru be
tran pyälän bharine un-
hun páñní pijo.
Huh shun kháun ?
Ajtame kain khâso nalu,
pejane káñje pije.
Ghanāh lugadán orhso
nahín.
Jetli thandak rakháy tetli
rakho.
Râtre páchhí huñ tamarí
khabar leish.
Máñdán männasne râtre
sutí wakhte à be goli
# ane pfwānun osad
kale sawáre pājo.


558
DIALOGUES :
ENGLISH.
Tell him to put his feet in
hot water before going
to bed.
Is there any medical man
in this place #
Is he anative or European?
Send for him whoever he
may be.
Tell him I have been at-
tacked with cholera, and
to bring medicine with
him.
Have you any cholera me-
dicine in the house ?
Have you any mustard 2
If so, make plasters to
put on my stomach and
feet.
Fill these stone bottles with
boiling water and apply
them to the feet.
Tell my servant not to
leave me for a moment.
Of Riding and Buying a
IHorse,
Is the horse ready?
Put the saddle well on.
Hold the bridle till I be
fairly mounted.
Take
hole
Let the stirrup down two
holes.
Tighten the girth.
Put a cloth over the horse's
up the stirrup one
eyes.
Coax him that he be not
restive.
Is that a riding or a car-
riage horse ?
Keep out of the way, per-
haps he may kick, bite,
Or rear,
KANARESE.
Avanu malaguvadakke
munche avanu kāluga-
lannu bishinirallida
hélu.
Illiyárádard vaidyaruñté?
Avanu yárádarásari avan-
na kareyisu.
Nanage vanti bhédi kah-
diruvadágiyú sangata
avusti taruvanteyü ava-
noñdige hélu.
Ninnamaneyellivántibhé-
dige avustiidheyé !
Ninna hatra sásivépudi
idheyé, iddare nanna
hottémélá kălugala
mélú hakuvadakké mu-
låmu mådu.
I kallu buddigalolage bish-
inirahnu tumbi avuga-
lañnu kālugalige hāku.
Nannañnu nimishavi bit-
tiradante nańna navu-
kāranige hélu.
Kuduré sawdri mádóna-
vdiini, kollóñavarini, ku-
ritu.
Kudure tavärägi Vidhevé »
£ # • y
Nänu chandāgi adaraméle
hattuvatanaka kadi-
vână hidi.
Rikábahnu ondu kahnu
mélakke yettu.
Rikábahnu yeradu kannu-
galu kelage bidu,
Tanguvárannu bigisu.
Kudureya kanmugalu méle
ondu batteyannu haku.
Chandi mádadante adañnu
tattu.
A kudure hattuvadé, bań.
dige kattuvadé?
Hádí bittu yiru, vonduvéle
adu vodditu, kachchítu
yå mungalugala yettitu.
TELUGU.
Padakaku poyyétappudu
kállu vénnillaló untsu-
kommani atanitó
cheppu.
Ikkadayevadainávaidyudu
unnádá 3
Atadunallavādā,jātivádà?
Yevarainā saré pilipintsu.
Máku maradi sankatamu
kanipinchinadani chep-
pi atanni aushadhamn
pattuka rammanu.
Intlo nivadda maradíkiyé-
mainá aushadhamu un-
nada 8
Ní vadda avălu, yémaina
unnavá, unte kadupuku
kállaku pattuveyyadá-
naku nūri guddalaku
tSarumu.
I ráti budlaló uduku nillu
pósi vátini kāllaku
Wottu.
Nimishamu küdâ mam-
muna vadilipetti, unda
vaddani má naukarutó
cheppu.
Gurrapu savari póvadamu,
gurramu konadamu
vitini gurinichi.
Gurramu siddhamuga un-
nadá 3
Jini tsakkagå kattu.
Mému yekki bāgā kürt-
sundédáká kallemu
attukó.
Ankevanne woka randhra-
munaku paigă dzarupu.
Ankevanne rendurandhra-
mulaku kindugå diñtsu.
Tanguváru bigintsu.
Gurramu ' aku adda-
mugá woka gudda veyyi.
Mondi £ #
láguna dānni tattu.
Adi yekkudu gurramá
bandi gurramà ,
Dáritolagipó, adiwokavé-
la tannunu karutsumulé-
ka mundari kallu pai-
kettunu.


SICKNESS-RIDING AND BUYING A HORSE.
559
TAMIL.
Avan padukka pógu mun-
ne avan kál kalai ven-
niril toyikka chóllu.
Ividattil vayittiya liruk-
kirárà 3
Avan yivváráná alladu
iróppiyáná 3
Avanyárá Írundálum kūp-
idu.
Y', pédi yágu denru
avanukkuchollimarindu
konduvara chollu.
Wun vittil vándi pédima-
rindu irukkudá P
Vun vittil kadugu iruk-
kudá irundāl arachi
kālukku pattupidu.
Inda kål puttiyil sudutan-
niyai nirappi kālukku
ottadam pódu.
Konjanéramāgilumyenna
vitta pógámalirukkum-
badi yen velaik kara-
nukkudi.
Kudirai vangi savari sey-
giradai kurittu.
Kudirai tayārāyirukkuda?
Síniyai nanráy kattu.
Nán yérugira varaikkum
kadi välattaip pidi.
Angupadiyilorutuvárattai
yeduttividu.
Angu £ kizh tuvu-
A ratti ' -
Ingul Dadilwal Olgruvu Sew.
Ku ' £1
múdu.
Adu murandāda padikku
tāsā sev.
Adu : kudiraiya yéru
kudiraiya?
Odingi yiru, oruvélai ka-
dikkum vudaikkum, ye-
riyum alladu pinnukku
yedayum.
MARATHí.
Nizāwyás dzányáche par-
win aple pāyushn pány-
áñt ghālā mhanan tyás
sångå.
Yá thikānin koni waidya
£he *
To etaddeshiya ahe kinwa
European ahe *
To koni tariñ aso tyás
bolāwā.
Tyás sång kiñ malá wakhâ
dzhälä &he yástav au-
shadh ghean ye.
Tumche gharáñt wakhyā-
cheh kahih ausha
£he P
Tumhádzawal rayá áhet?
astiltar májhe potáwar
wa, payáñwar ghâlnyá
sáthin tyá watūn tyáñt-
sā patyá kará.
Hyachinai mátichesisháñt
ukalten pání bharán
májhe pay sheká.
Májhe tsākarás sångå kin
tún májhe dzawalún
dzará halań nako.
Ghodydwar basnyd visha-
giri wa ghodd kharid
karmyd vishayiri.
Ghodá tayáráhe *
Khogir nit ghāl.
Mi barobar basen ton par-
yañtlagāmdharanthew.
Rikibitsá ek burăkh tsar-
hiw.
Rikib don burăkh khálfil
utar.
Tang tánán báñdh.
Ghodyache dolyawar
pharká ghāl.
Tyás tsutskär mhanje to
tsalwal karnár nahí.
To basnyatsa ghodá áhe
kinwa gåditsä ghodá
ahe:
Dur ubhá ràhá, kadáchit
to lat máril, kinwa tsā-
wel, kinwá upáñ yell.
GUJARATí.
Tenekaho ke sutāń pehe-
láñ potáná pag unháñ
páñnimán rākhe.
Ahiyah koi waid chhe *
Te et deshiya chhe ke Yu-
ropian?
Te game tehoe pan tene
oláw.
Tenekahokemhanewäkho
thayo chhe waste osad
leine châlo.
Tamárá gharmáñ kain
wäkhánum osad chhe *
Tamárá gharmáñ kain rài
chhe hoe to mháráñ
pet ane pag upar mu-
kwá sáru watine lepri
karo.
A chinái mátíná sisãomáñ
khalkhaltun páñni bha-
rine mhárá pag sheko.
Mhárá chákarne kaho ke
tuh sahebne ek kshan
bhar wihilo mukine ja-
tono.
Ghodd upar beswd ane
ghodo kharid karwd
bdbat.
Ghodo taiyar chhe *
Jin thik máñd.
Huń barahar besun tyáh-
háñ sudhi lagam jhāli
rākh.
*: ek chhed upar char-
&
W.
Ríkáb be chhed niche utár.
Tang khenchine báñdh.
Ghodání ankh upar lug-
duń nākh.
Tene buchkär etle techal-
wal kare nahiń.
Te beswano ghodo chhe
ke gădino *
Bájue ubho rehe wakhte
te lät mårshe, athwá
karadshe, athwä jhár
thashe,


562
DIALOGUES I
, Eivomsn.
G0 to the other side and
see if the bank be steep
or sloping.
Are there any rocks or
stones in the bed of the
river?
You must not give the
horse any water while
he is so warm.
Walk him about.
Rub him well down, and
take care that he does
not catch cold in your
hands.
What makes the horse trip
and stumble so?
Examine his hoofs—-per-
haps some gravel or
stones are sticking there.
Take them all out, or the
horse will assuredly be
lamed.
Why does he limp in the
right fore leg P
He seems to have something
the matter also with his
hind-leg.
Is this a quiet horse for
the road?
Does he ever rear, run
backwards, or stand still
on the road?
Is he hard-mouthed 3
Does he bite his rider,
ever.
Is he perfectly sound in
wind and limb ?
This horse trots and can-
ters well.
Gan he leap 9 and how does
he gallop P
Does he stand fire P

Kamxunsa.
K ché kadege hogi édada
gandfiiitravagi idheyé
osanagi idheyé néglu.
Nadiya kelage kallu pare-
galagali liallugalégali
yénadarfi idheyé P
Kudure ishtu bechchage
iruv adakke ninu
niru torisa kfidadu.
Adannu tirigisu.
Adafinu chaiidiigi
adakke chali
hangs madu.
K kudure yatariiida haiige
edari biluttade?
A aragorasugala.!'inuchar'i-
nfigi n6<_lu. Oiidu véle
kelavu garusu alagali
kallugala ali s ikki
koiidu id hitu.
Avugalaiinelle. horage tegi,
illadiddare kudure ms-
chayavagi kuntaditu.
tikki
yagada
Adu yatarifida bala muii-
galalli kuiituttade P
Adara hiiigalu kiida swalpa
ai bagi kiiriuttade.
Darige idu siidhuvada ku-
dureyé P
Idu yavfiigalfidarfi dfirfli
mungiilugala mélakke
yettuvadagali hiiidakke
voduvadagali suminane
nilluvadagali unto P
Adara biiyi Judd-addo?
Adu savaranaiinii ytiv€iga-
ladarii kachcliuva duiito?
Adu chaiin {igi usuru bic_lut-
talii aiiga balavagiyfi
yidheyé.
I kudure chaiinagi depu-
gfilittu hadn hoguttade.
Adu negeya balladé, mattfi
adu h 'ai'1ge dhandu ho-
gutta e?
Adu beiikige tuijade nili-
fité?
Tnuzan.
Addhariki poyi a gattu yet-
tarainugé. unnadé léka
yétavaluga unnadé
tsfidu.
K yetlo aduguna bandalu
rallu yéniaina unnavéi?
Gurrémiki aiita kéik s un-
(laga daniki nill minni
pettaradu.
Danni at_la tippu.
Bhadrani, nivalla dzalubu
daniki yekkakuiidii tsak-
kaga malisu cheyyi.
Gurrarnu yeiiduvalla at_l£i
tadabadi padutunnadi.
Dani goriselu tsfidu, woka
véla gulaka rallu {mi
riillu gaui gutstsu oni
uiidunu.
Vatinaiita tisi veyyi, léka-
poté adi avashyafn kui'1-
t_unu.
Adi muiidari kudikéilii en-
duvalla kuiitutunnadi.
Dani venakati kalilé kfidfx
koiiehemu yédo toridara
uiidétattuga unnadi.
I’ gurramii rastalé kudu-
ruga potunnada P
I’ gurramu yeppudaina
muiidari kallu yetta
damn venakku paruget-
tadamu dovalé nilichi
pévadamu kaddé. P
I’ gurramu kallemunaku
aniginadénii P
l'di yeppudainii ravutunu
karustunnada?
Idi rommulonunnu takkina
avayavauiulalénunnu
noppi novi lékuiidfa
druclliamuga nnnada?
I gurramu datlu véstu
b ti parugettutunnadi.
Adi atagalada adi yetls
parugettutunnadi P
Idi tupaki vetlaku l)0(l£ll‘fl-
knrida nilustunnada?


RIDING AND BUYING A HORSE.
563
TAMIL.
MARATRf.
Gvninivrf.
Innoru pakkattia-kku_ p6y Pali karle badzfis dza anl Pele_tfre jainc jo karndo
karai sen ttay 1ruk-
kuda fl.ll3%‘il saysippa
irukkuda par.
A'ttile yedavadu malaikal
alladu karkal irukkuda P
Kudirai tagama irukkum
pozhndu enda tanni-
yum kodu kadi.
Konqlupo.
Nanray todai vunkaiyinfil
kudir varnmal iruk a ni
pattirap paduttu.
Kudirai yén iradi tondi-
ravu pattaduP
Adin kulambukalai arik-
shai seydu par, alla-
gilum, parikkang kalln-
gilum adaindu kor_1qli-
rukkum.
Adugalellam yeduttividu
illavittal mey yagave
kudiraigal nonqliyay
p6 vidum.
"ala u munnangal yén
nondudu.
Pinnangal nondugir adaga
kfznappadu ginradu.
Pattaikku saduvana kudi-
raiya P
Pnttaiyile pin Gqluda alladu
mun (adudé. P
Adu azhagina vay yudai
aP
Ali: eppédagilum savari
seykiruvanai kadik-
kuduP
Avayavam mudalan adu
nanray yirukkudai
Inda kudirai kal nudaiyil
dp6guda.
A u tanduma adu yep-
padi tanddumP
Adu rozhama ' k-
kumnP ga yr“
knnth ubha ahe kinwa
utarta ahe to paha.
N adiche tales kharak kin-
wa dhonde abet?
Ghoda itka garam astan
tyas agdin pant denn
nako.
Tyfis phiriw.
Tyachi tsangli tsakari kar
ani tyas sardi hofin deun
nako.
Ghoda itka adkhalto kanP
Tyache khur aha, kada-
chit tyant k agla kinwa
dhonqln shirla ascl.
Te sarv kin-hun tak nahin
tar ghodfi khachit lan-
gagla hoil.
To purhla udzwa pay kan
T ka.i{1htoP 1 h
ac e m e nyas i
ykahin dzlfiiéigxlen pahe asen
watate.
Ha ghoda swnrint garib
abeP
v To kadhin upain yeto, kin-
we mnghen hatto, kin-
wa rastyant adto P
To tondatsa kathin ahei
Basanarawar to kadhin
tond t_akto P ‘
To chhatint wa hatin pn-
yin tsokh nhe P
Ha ghoqla duclkits tsauwad
tsal mm li. tsfilbo.
Tyatsane u _ awatenP wa to
bhar dhanw kasa pa1toP
To baras tsamakto P
sonsarone sonsro chhe ke
utarto.
N arlinnn bhathanman kha-
dak chhe ke pathran P
Ghoqlo etlo garam hoy
tyanhan sudhi tene kain
panni pfishono.
Tene ferav.
Teni saripathe chnkari
kar, ane tene sardi tha-
wa detono.
Ghoglo kem etlo thokarae
chheP
Teni khan‘ jo—wakhte
temnn kakaro, athwa
pathro bharayo hashe.
Te sarv kahfidi nankh,
nahi to ghodo nishche
langdo thashe.
Te a le 'amr_ pa kem
laiigaqlaie chheP ge
Tene pfichhle page an
kain thaelun ma am
pane chhe,
K hoc_lo swarimnn garib
c heP
Te kadi jhnd thae chhc,
athwa pachho hate chhe,
athwa rastamnn adi
rahe chhe?
Te kathan mhodanno chhei
Te kadi besnarne askma
bhare chhe?
Te chhatie ane bathe page
majbnt chhe P
A ghodo dudki ane adasho
t_hfk chale chhe.
Tene kundto awade chhe P
ane te kewi rapatj mare
chhe P
Te barthi chamke chhe?


564
DIALOGUES 2
Ezmusn.
Bring the horse I bought
yesterday.
He is quite a colt yet.
What is his age?
He carries l].1S head re-
markably well, and is
elegantly formed, par-
ticularly before.
Measure him exactly, and
tell us his height.
He can carry your weight
over any ground.
His paces are very good,-—
make him trot round
that circle; now gallop
him.
But he appears to greater
advantage when mounted
One of the horses appears
to be lame.
He is sprained in that
joint.
Send for a farrier to look
at him.
The horse’s leg has swelled
greatly during the night.
What shall we apply to
reduce it? '
Tell the groom to cut the
horse's mane and tail
properly.
Tell the coachman to bring
the harness which came
home last night.
One of the wheels is
broken by the driving
of these unruly horses.
They have never been tho-
rougbl broken in.
This bed ' g is extremely
dirty, why don’t you
clean them every day ~P-
Kmnnrsn.
Niime nanu konda kudure-
aimu tatta.
A u iimii shuddha mari.
Adara vayasénu?
Adu tanna taleyannu bahu
chaiidagi vo uttade
vishéshavégi ara riipa
murigadéli cheluvadu.
Sariyagi adara alaté nédi
:1 atateyannu namage
hélu.
Yava bhiimi mélfr nin-
nashtu bharavaiinu adu
horalapadu.
Adaranade atu bahneha1i-
dirgi yi he, adaimu £1
guiidu sutti dapugalagi
vodisn,yiga dhaudu bidu.
Adare adarameli hattidaga
adu iimfi adhika g'u1_1a_-
vagi iruvadagi kar_iut-
tade.
Kuduregalalli ofidu kud-
tagiruvadagi kanuttade.
A kilinalli adakke uluki
idhe.
A annu noduvadakke ash-
wa vaidyanafinu kareyisu.
A’ kudnreya kalu rem ba-
hala bfituhbyitu.
K bavu tegeyuvadakke na-
vénu hakéna P
Kudureya jfiganmi bala-
vaimli channagi katta-
risa héti kudurévanige
hétu.
Ninne ratri manege banda
kudure saménaiinu tara-
héli bandivanige héln.
1' adagada kuduregalarinu
katti savari madidda-
riiida bandi chakra-
galalli ondu muriyitu.
Avu shuddhava i bandige
abh Asa atta dalla.
1’ h u fishige bahal_a.
mannégi idhe fitakko
adaimu dina c okkata
maduvadilla.
Ts-Luau.
Mému ninna konna gur-
ramu tisukonirfi.
Adi inks. chinna pillé.
Daniki yennéndln P
Adi talanu bahu tsakkagé
pettukoni potunnadi
mari muxidari tattu so-
gusuga unnadi.
Sariga kolichi adi yefita
yettu unnado cheppu.
Adi yekkadi kanté akka-
diki mimmuna mosuka
pégaladu.
Dani nada bahu bags un-
nadi, a girilo trattu mida
poniyyi; ikanu nalugu
allato parugettintsu.
K gurramunu yekkinap-
pndu vattappati kanna
sogasuga agupadutun-
nadi.
I gurramnlalo wokati ku1i-
tétattu unnadi.
Daniki kilulé iruku patti-
nadi.
Salistrini pilipinchi danni
tsfipintsu.
A gurrapu kalu rfitri légfi
ninda vachinadi.
A’ vapu tiyadamunaku yémi
véya vatstsunu. ,
I gurra u megla midi vexi-
truka unnu toka ventra-
kalunnu tsakkagfi ket-
tiri1'1tsumanigurrapuvfi-
nité cheppu.
Ninnati rfiitri intiki tech-
china gurrapu sam&nu-
temmani bandivénitb
cheppu.
I’ pokiri rralanu ban-
one vésinanduna woka
chakramu virigi poyi-
nndi.
Vatini tsakkaga mampané
lédu.
I radakesaddi nifidé asa-
hyamuga unnadi dimni
yenduku nityamu nillu
posi kadagavu?


570
DIALOGUES 1
,_ "I"? ~—-‘ s. {J3 -_-‘-,- ...-
ENGLISH.
\Vell, nurse, has the child
slept this forenoonP
You must always put it to
sleep at noon.
What makes the child cry
so P
I fear that you are not kind
to baby.
Bathe the children regu-
larly every morning.
If the children wish to run
about allow them.
Take care that they go
into no danger.
Bring those playthings I
bought for the children.
Order my palki, I am go-
ing to make some visits.
Kyah, have the bed made,
and flap away all the
mosquitoes.
A Lady and Tailor.
Tailor, can you make ladies’
dresses P
I want a gown made of
this pattern, out of this
muslin ; out it out before
me, and don’t waste the
cloth.
Measure this child for a
suit of clothes.
The same as that of the
suit now in wear, but to
be larger.
The le s and sleeves are
too s iort, and the arm-
holes are too tight.
Give tucks in the legs and
arms to admit of length-
ening.
Kanannsn.
Dadi’! imadhyanha kiisu
nidde madité P
N inu yavagalfii kfisaimu
madyanhadalli malagisa
béku.
Kiisu hinigeyéike aluttade P
Ninage kiisinalli adarane
illavéno.
Makkalige dine beligge
kramavagi snanti ma-
dliisu.
Makkalu védiyada bekei'1-
dare hage madalisu.
Avarige apaya baradailte
nodiko.
Makkaligagi nanu tegeda
atada samanugalaiina
tatta.
N aiina pélakiyaiinu sidd-
ha padisu nanu kelavara
node hogutténe.
Dadi héshigé iiski soile-
galannu hadidu bi<_lu.
Dhoresdniyii daaffiyit.
Darji, ninu dhoresanigala
vudupu holiya balliyaP
I’ shelleyalli yi madriyégi
nanage voiidu aiigi made.
béku, adailnu nanna. ye-
durige kattarisu, batte-
yaiinu pélu mada béda.
Voiidu jote vudupu ma-
duva bagye 'i mogu-
vaimu ale.
Yga hakiruvaiitha dusti-
na haiige ira béku, adare
swalpa doddadu.
Kalugalfi tolugalfi bahala
giddfigiyfi kaiikulu san-
iiiigalu bahala higiya-
iyfi idhe.
U da madi kolluva has e
kiilugalallu tolugala u
madidu holi.
Tunes.
Yémi dadi I nédu tellavari
bidda nidra poyinadti?
N ivu nityam biglglanu mad-
hyanhamu nidrabutstsu
valenu.
Bidda yenduku atlé yé-
dustunnadi P
A’ chinna bidda mida niku
vishwfisamu undétattu
maku tétsa lédu.
Prati dinamu udayana bid-
dalaku kramamuga
snanamu chéintsu.
Biddalu atla itléi parugetta
valenanté parugettani.
Varicllaku apayamu lékui'1-
as matramu tsutsuké.
Mému biddalaku ganu
konna atladé vastuvulu
tisukoni ra.
Mému koiidarini tsiichi
rabotamu, palaki tem-
manu.
A’y€i, padaka véii'1chid6ina-
lananta téli veyyi.
Dérasdnikinni ku_trapu
vdnikinni sainbhdshana.
Kutrapuvada dorasanula.
dustulu kuttagalavf1P
I’ ravasellato 1 taraha
aunu mfiku wokati
uttavalenu, mi1yeda-
tané kattiriiitsu gudda
adhikainu a khartsu
chéya va du.
I’ biddaku woka dustu bat-
t_alu kuttadanaku kolts
pat_t_:u.
Ippudu vésukoiitii undé
dustu madiré kut_tava-
lasinadi, aité danikanté
pcddadiga undavalenu.
Kallu chétulu niiida ot-
tiga unnavi tsaii alu
niiidii bigutugii nnnavi.
Podigifitsukoné laguna
kallalénunnu chétulal6-
nunnu maglupulu pettgi
kutm.


LADY AND MAID-LADY AND TAILOR,
571
TAMIL.
Nalladu tädi kuzhandai
mattiyanam nittiraisey-
dadá 8
Adai ni mattiyānam yep-
pódum tanga vaikkave-
num.
Kuzhandai yén appadi az-
hugiradu ?
Nikuzhaindaiyidattil pat-
cham vaik käderuk kira
yenru ténru kiradu.
Piridi kaleyilung kuzhain-
dagalai niratti vai.
Pillaigal ödi vilaiyada vi-
rumbinal idangodu.
Avargalukku mósam néri-
# padipārttukko].
Nán pillaigalukkága vän-
gina vilaiyattu pandan-
galai konduva.
Nán silarai sandikkap po-
giren Savāri konduvara
chollu.
Aya!! padukai póttu ko-
sukku lai yellánattayum
torattināya.
Oru turaisdniyum taiyal
karanaiyum kurittu.
Taiyal kārā duraisanivu-
duppu seyvaiya *
Inda sallávil inda mádiri-
yana, nedungavunukku
véndiyirukkudu yenak-
kediredán vettu tuniyai
pazhukkade.
Inda pillaikki oru disttu
vuduppu alave dulluko].
Ippóduvuduttirukkira vu-
duppu mädiriye anal
konjam perida irukka
venum.
Kal alavum kai alavum
metta kuttaiyāyirukku-
du ukkul migavum pi-
dikkiradu.
Kálum kaikkum alaviruk
kumbadiyāy madippu
Wall.
MARATHf,
Dái ! mulgen adz sakáliń
nizleń hoten ?
Túñ tyás nehmi don pra-
harin nijwit dzá.
Mulgen itken káñ radten ?
Malá watateñ kín tañ
tāhānyāwar mamtā
karít náhis.
Mulánsdarroj prātahkálin
nemáne nāhūn ghāl.
Mulenikadetikadedhāwāń
# tar dhāwaii de.
Sámbhál, ijá hof ase thik-
anin tyáñs dzāūn dean
nako.
Muláñ karitán mi khelní
wikat ghetliń tin an.
Májhi pâlkhi äniw, mí
bhetàwyás dzānār āhen.
Ayāl bichhánátayárkaríw
ani sarv machhar had-
pún kärh.
Bai wa shimpi.
Shimpf tulá báyakáñche
poshāk shiwtá yetát?
Yá majhlinichen yá tarhe-
chef, malá gown kara-
wyáchen ahe; májhyá
samaksh käp, kápadná-
sán nako.
Yá mulâche kapade kará-
wyáche ahet, yachen
máp ghe,
Hallí to kapade ghālto tyá
sárikhets pahijet, pa-
rantu mothe pahijet.
Payche wa astanyà phêr
ākhūd ahet, animundhe
phár tang ahet.
Paychyáñs wa astanyáñs
uni thev mhanje pur-
hen lamb karitán yetil.
GUJARATí.
Dái! chhokaruń. #. ba-
pore sutun hatun;
Tun enerojbapore suwädti
já.
Chhokaruń etluń kem rade
chhe *
Mhane láge chhe ke tun
bachyán upar het rākhti
nathi.
Chhokaráñone roi sawáre
wakhte ne wakhte na-
wadāw.
Chhokarán ahiyan tahiyan
dore to dorwä de.
Sambhál, ijá thae tewe
thekáñne teone jawá de-
tíno.
Chhokaráñone saru meñ
ramkarán wechátān lid-
háñ te láw.
Mháripálkhimangaw, hun
malwājawani chhauñ.
Ayāl patháritaiyárkaraw,
ane saghlā machharjha-
padi kärh.
Bdi ane darji.
Darji! tamnebåedioná po-
shák siwtáñáwadechhe *
A majlinno à tarheno
mháre gawan karáwawo
chhe, mhárámhodā āgal
wetar, ane lugdun ba-
gädto mán.
A chhokariñnáñ, kapráñ
karawawāno chhe, enun
parmáñnun le.
Hamnân pehere chhe te-
wáñj karwān, pan tethi
jará mhotáñ.
Páyachá ane báñhe ghani,
tunkí chhe, ane mundhá
ghanáñj tang chhe.
Páyachäne ane bánhene
ghadiwáline doro bhar
etle lambí kartan áwade,


LADY AND TAILOR.
573
Tnun.
Inda kavun yenakku pi-
dikka vé illai.
I¢_luppa1_n_iaiyi1 evvalavu
agala ma iruk ira den-
rum kai al ycvvalavu
andappaz ada irukkira
den;-um par.
Iduvuii tavira saflgai kai
mi avumnulan irukki-
r u avaigal muzhang
kai mafiu mirukka véx_1-
dum kaikku yidupél sa-
mama yirukkaggum ton-
al konjam aiava iruk-
agium iduppalavel; ye-
duttuk kol.
Ni munseydadupfil laiyal
konjamlixuppayirakkap
H1111.
Kuvunai nan ma.ruppa1_1i-
yum pottu parkkaiyum
appédu yenna koraiya-
denrum pfzrtm kolvay.
Buja tux_n_1u metta vimmala
lruk kinradu tongal
metta adigamfi u"uk
kiradu.
Adiga taiyal illada padikki
talarttivigiuvayk P
Marba1_1<_iaiyil nanréyirak-
kinyada maglippugal
konjam kurai.
Adiyil éram suttilum in-
nam magiittagavillai ya?
Inda madiri iranqlu kavun
sey giradarkku sallavil
yettani yard pidikkumP
Inda madiriyim day nan
parl tu koiiumbaglikki
mélaiya dinam mfinu
alladunalu sallfivugalum
paltu kopduva.
ldé madiriyay padukkai
kavun oma sey {mid
konjam agalamk in1k-
kaI_:t_nm.
Mfir turaisani taiyyakiuan
flngiekkfi 6y anan and
tqraisfuiikfii seygira top-
Elmfidiri sariyay yena-
onru sey.
MARXTHf.
Hen gown majhe iuigas
barobar basat nfihi.
Hen ka1'nbrei1t kitin dhil
aha aha, aai hi astani
kiti e daul aha.
Astan aphéxatslédnbahet;
tyfi opara pa ant
yavya; hfitas s obhat
asa bastyé kar; teal
moghfi kar; kainbreilt
débfin ghe.
Twin‘: pahilyane shiwan keli
ahes ti nswfin ya pru-
m£u_1e kar.
Mala gown ghsmm do
mhagqe t am kay pher
phar kee Yahijet te
tula samazti .
Khaizda phfir tang ahe £\1_1i
Hlflliil phat dhil aha. P
Kx_1khidzo<_i1awa1y6.w!1ts\in
teii tujhyfme gihil kar-
wel P
Ten chhfitila barobar bas-
wn paraiitu dam lahan
kar.
Khfiliin saghii got; adzhfin
hatli ahes kmwa nahi P '
As i1'1 don gowne kargyas
kiti war majhlin 1f1gelP
Ashb. tarheche bérik majh-
liniche tin char take (mi
reshmi take p€1hé.ny.'1-
main udyéfi ghefin ye.
Y6 sarikhefi dusrefi ek ni-
dzéyache gown m-éjhe
satlhiil kar parailtu ten
yahfm thogike dhil yhew.
Mis Murche shiinpayfi dza-
wal dza, anito aple dim-
nagi karitaii topi karit
the tashits majhe séthifi
ek kar.
Gvnnhf.
gawan mhnme muddal
besto fiwato nathi.
Jo ka1‘1m'armafi fi ket_lo
dhilo chhe, ane 6. banhe
kewi bedol chhe.
A’
K bafiheghanij lainbi chhe ;
te kopriyam sudhi awa-
wi joie; hathne shobhe
tewi besti kar; chai
mhogi kar ; ane kan-
mar man dfibine lo.
Tex‘: pehelafi siwag bhari
chhe, te ukeline a pra-
m£u_1e kar.
Mhane farithi gawan pe-
herwfi de, egle bemfui
sho ferfar karwo joie te
tane malam paqlshe.
Khéndhoghaxgotaxi chhe,
ane he§hal_thi g ago
dhflo chhe.
Siuidho karyia wagar te
mam gihilo karashe ke
nahii1P
Te chhatie barabar besto
awe chhe, pan pagli
nhani kar.
Haju hethalthi saghli cyan
bhari chhe P
Ewé. be gawan karwlmo
kelila h€n'majlin oishe P
Ewi tarheni jhir'11_1i maj-
linna trap char takb.
ane resmi takfi jowaue
kale lei aw.
Anna jewo bijo ek suwémn
gawan mhare saru kin,
par; te (1 kartiui jara
gihilo rakhje.
Mis Mfirna darji pése jh.
ane te potfini sct_h€u'1-
nine saru topi siwe chhe
tewij ek mhare sfiru kar.


'~
580
cim.1.1mm’m.
Chillamkur, 123.
Chimnaji Appa, 311.
Cllimathan, 296.
Chinchore, 326. _
Chinchwad, 326.
Chingleput, 44.
1 Chinnaméipet, 33.
Chinna atanam, 217.
Chintfi ripét, 15.
Chintomanipét, 132.
Chinnfi, 73.
Chipalufi, 385, 394, 395.
Chiploon, 395.
Chipurupalli, 61.
Chitradurg, 203, 215,218;
described, 224.
Chittoor, properly Chittfir,
212.
Chittledroog, 224.
Chittfir, 15, 45, 132, 211;
described, 212.
Chitwél, 118.
Cliodiranen, 61.
Chombé Peramba, 228,
232.
s Chorashi, 424.
Chorvira, 436.
Chota Nalni, 103.
i Chrpnological Tables, liii.
— xxxi.
Clive, 17; attein ts sui--
cide, 22; takes ovilam,
29; 37; takes Arcot, 40 ;
44, 59; leads storming
party at Devikota, 151 ;
155, 236, 260, 267-
glorpét, 203, 217. d
cc in 2 13 195' e-
scrib,ed,,199: 204.’
Coimbatore, 187.
Combaconum, 150.
Con'everam, 12, and see
finchiveram.
80011:, Caiga, 265, 273.
oo son apt. 489.
Coorg, ’
Cogtéeusriar llgre, 37, 40,
iii’. Cope’, Capt, 169.
Coggvallis, Lord, 78, 220,
.1‘ -
ii. Corteliar r., 124.
_ :.,_.__~_-.-_-_.-v.-_-_é_
. Cotton cultivationinCoim-
‘ § batore, 188; at Breach,
448.

INDEX.
Corygaum, 358.
Covelong, 29.
Cowper, Col., 275, 279.
Crowe, Mr., 481.
Cuddalore, 16; described,
54; 216.
Cuddapah, 1, 2,
118, 122;
125.
Cinch, 241470.
Cuttack, 71.
50,
described,
D.
Dachapalli, 80.
Dachépalli, 14.
Dahisar, 295.
Dahiwadi, 295.
Dahiweli, 295.
Dailwaréi, 462.
Daiwi adi, 215.
Daiwa, 394.
Damal, 39.
Damaji Gaikwfid, 429.
Daman (Demaun), 351.
Dambal, 387.
Danaikenkété. 134.
Dandilli, 263, 416.
Dang Rajfi, 246.
Danglia, 305.
Dantura, 351.
Dénu, 351.
Dapoorie, 325.
Dapiiri (Dapoorie), 326.
Darra, 342.
Dastikopal, 216.
Daulatabad, 73, 92; de-
scribed, 93.
Daulatpur, 475.
Davagudfir, 16.
Davanhalli, 202.
Davengadi, 203,
218.
Dawarkonda, 72.
Dawson, Lient., 277.
Defican, kings of, lv.
Deesa, 462.
Delamotte, Gen., 391.
Demaun, 351.
Denkenkbta, 135.
Deodar, 248.
Deogarh, 108.
Defir, 344.
Devarayapatti, 15.
215,
nurfin.
Devikotta, 151.
Dewgiri, 416.
Dhaiiduka, 423.
Dharampur, 246.
Dharampuii, 135.
Dharapuram, 134.
Dharangafiw, 296.
Dharmavaram, 62, 117.
Dh:'a.i-wad (Darwar), 215,
241, 243, 263, 387, 407;
described, 414.
Dharwar, 414.
Dholka, 423.
Dhone, 118.
Dhoolia, 296, 364 ; de-.
scribed, 371.
Dhorawari or N aidu Chat-
tram, 47.
Dlllllefi, 296, 364; de-
scribed, 371. .
Dialogues, 540-575.
Diamond mines, 65, 126.
Dickinson, W. R., Lient.,
459.
Diiligégal, 2, 12, 134, 147,
Dilawar Qén Qifiri,
372.
Dfngi, 436.
Dirom, Captain, 234.
Disa, 263, 435; described,
462.
Divi, 58.
Diwali Kupra, 87. '
Doaba, 470.
Dobbs Péta, 214, 217.
Doddabalapur, 203.
Doddéri, 203.
Dohéla, 363.
Dom, 333.
Donpura, 435.
Dost’Ali, 109,138, 206.
Dow, Colonel, 278.
Dowlutabad, 93.
Downton, Captain, 264.
Dress, directions for, xi. ;
of natives, xevii.
Dubhfii, 450.
Dubhoy, 450.
Dudfi, 478.
Dudukiir, 47.
Dumoh, 1.
Duncan, Jonathan, 254;
tomb of. 277.
Dupad, 118.


INDEX.
583
KONDALI.
Khataw, 295.
Khed, 294.
Kheda (Kaira), 241, 242,
263, 435; described,
454.
Kheir, 294.
Khelná r., 103.
Khirki, 327.
Khundapur, 228, 239.
Khurkaleh, 294.
Kikairi, 203.
Kikwi, 314.
Klapalir, 135.
Killianár, 45.
Kingári, 217.
Kirkee, or Khirkee, 327.
Kistnah, or Krishna river,
64; Great Anicutt at,
64, 65; source of, 335.
Kittúr, 215.
Kitár, 407,413.
Kirkpatrick, Colonel, 84.
Kivalúr, 136.
Kod (Koda), 387.
Kodavasel, 136.
Kodavélür, 47.
Kodegonda, 117.
Kodey Kulls, 229.
Kodar, 57, 122, 133.
Kogirra, 133.
Koilandi (Quilandy), 204.
227.
Koilgunta, 118.
Koilkonda, 73.
Koilpatti, 147.
Koimbatür, 1, 13, 134,
148, 183; described,
187.
Kolába, 242.
Kolagotla, 50.
Kolam (Quilon), 136, 194,
198.
Koler, 363.
Kolár, 202, 212, 214.
Kolhapur, 241, 242, 246,
38
6.
KALAM.
Kalam (Kullum), 73.
# (Calberga), 73.
Káligadi, 15.
Kaliyání, 73.
Kalkerra, 416.
Kallakurchi, 16.
Kallimetu, 194.
Kallimodu, 192.
Káliyā Wádi, 424, 434.
Kálri, 436.
Kalúr, 118.
Kalyān (Callian),
295, 304, 312.
Kalyān Kot, 482.
Kamalpäd, 14.
Kamalapur, 118.
Kambaliyá, 436.
Kambam, 118.
Kammamet, 73.
Kammam Fort, 50.
Kamptee, 116.
Kamptí, 113, 116.
Kampalí, 262, 304, 313.
Kanara, 1, 2, 204, 207.
Kanapur, 87.
Kanchiveram (Conjeve-
ram), 15, 35.
Khandesh, 241, 242.
Kandi, 87.
Kandukür, 15.
Kangalamkolam, 163.
Kángiam, 134.
kanhari čaves (Kennery),
306, 313.
Kankanhalli, 203.
Kankrej, 248.
Kankuppa, 203.
Kannamangalam, 146.
Kannanür (Cannanore),
13, 135, 228, 233.
Kantálavalsa, 57.
Käp, 228.
Kapadwańj, 424.
Kappalmadagu, 212.
Kapáveram, 58.
Karáchi (Kurrachee), 241,
242,470.
Karnampéta, 214.
Karanguli, 43.
Karde, 295.
Kardi, 363.
Kargola, 217.
Karhād (Kurar), 295.
Kariambranád, 204.
Karikal, 13, 192,
262,
Karimanal (Coromandel),
32, 33.
Karkambadi, 122, 124.
Kärla, 88.
Karli Caves, 261,
314, 320.
Karmále, 386. -
Kármottanpatti, 148, 183.
Karnagápallé, 136, 194.
Karnūl, 1, 2, 118, 119.
Karmuneshwar, 228.
Karri, 263.
Kartanåd, 204.
Kartigapalli, 136.
Karumãd, 88.
Karungali, 15.
Kārār, 12, 134, 148, 169.
Kasará, 363.
Kasergod, 228.
Kásibuga, 63.
Kasimkót, 63.
Kastambadi, 182.
Kastigapilli, 194.
Katak (Cuttack), 71.
Kathiawad (Kattywar),
241, 242, 248, 424.
Kathrar, 204.
Katkacheri, 228.
Kattapilli, 58.
Kaulås, 73.
Kauliárkovil, 146.
Kaulidrug, 204.
Kaurapatti, 135.
Kauwai, 228.
Kavalli, 15.
Kávéripák, 15, 39.
Kawai, 204.
Kåwnai (Kownaee), 295.
Kayan Kulam (Quilon),
194, 198.
Kázipét, 50.
Keigwin, Captain, 265.
Kennaway, Sir J., 83.
Khadkâle, 294.
Khágal, 246.
Khair, 394
Khairpur, 241, 242, 250.
Khambāyat(Cambay),244,
263, 435; described,
452.
Khandāla, 262, 314; de-
scribed, 320.
Khandapur r., 263.
Khánápúr, 295.
Khandesh, 295,
262,
Kolikod (Calicut), 171,
204, 227, 230. .
Kolligål, 134.
Kompli, 117.
Komaléshwaramkovil, 115
Konād, 135.
Konāda, 63.
Konarikuppam, 44.
Kondali, 113.


INDEX.
, 585
MALKAPúR.
Malkāpir, 80, 386.
Malkár, 73.
Mallár, 351.
Malliankolam, 137.
Malligaum (see Málegáñw)
Mallur, 148.
Malwalli, 203.
Málwan, 386.
Mámbàkam, 34.
Manalkunam, 195.
Manantāwadi (Manan-
toddy), 204, 216, 219,
Manárgadi, 16.
Manárgudi, 136.
Mandakalli, 88.
Mandiam, 203.
Máñdwi, 424.
Mangalagadi, 14, 48.
Mangalampéta, 130.
Mangaldr, (Mangalore),
13, 205, 228; described,
234. -
Mångåon, 395.
Mangiari, 204.
Mangoli, 386,
Manikwádá, 436.
Manjeshwaram, 228.
Manji Kuppam, 16, 51.
Mansórkóta, 64.
Mánwat, 88.
Manzárábād, 203.
Marátha Jāgirs, 252.
Marrawakád, 195.
Marimakulapilli, 212.
Markapur, I18.
M:" palliam,215,
1
Marlborough, Earl of,
265
Márhé (Mahara), 386,
Marutir, 14.
Masulipatam, 1, 2, 58.
Masur (Mussoora), 295.
Maswar, 344.
Mátar, 424.
Mattari, 475, 490.
Matheran, 315.
Matthews, Gen., 227, 240.
Maugri, 203.
£ Col, 393.
Maulür, 202.
Mävalikaré, 136.
Maviladoruvu, 47.
Máwal, 294.
Medhe, 295.
Meeanee, 475, 487.
Mel (West), Chakragudi,
165
0.
Mel Thattapaura, 165,
Merialgudiam, 80.
Merkárà, 13.
Merwära, 248.
Metá, 435.
Mettupalliam, 148.
Mhow, 364; described,
375.
Miagáñw, 434.
Middleton, Sir H., 264.
Midnapur, 71.
Mínachel, 136.
Mír 'Ali Murád, 241,491.
Mírpar Battora, 470.
Mirpur Sákrá, 470.
Mír Rustam, 473.
£ Multâni, 475.
Moherri, 57.
£ 147.
Mohol, 386.
Mohra, 475.
Money, c.
Monimangalam, 15.
Monké, 229.
Monsoons, 3, 271, 337.
Montreddi, 63.
Morris, T., Major, 456.
Mostyn, Mr. T., 267.
Mota Tungí, 436.
Moté Bennür, 215, 416.
Muattupalli, 136.
Mudebihál (Moodbhal),
386.
Mugubala, 212, 214.
Muhammad'Ali, 135,207.
Muhammad Kulí, 81.
Muhammad Sháh's tomb,
379.
Muhüdhá, 424.
Mülf, 436.
Mulkalmuru, 203.
Mulki, 228.
Mulwägal, 202.
Mulwar, 419.
Munawali, 217.
Munu Châwadi, 148.
Munro, Sir T., statue of,
24; Gen., 36; Sir H.,
54; Sir T., 119; Col.,
138; Sir H., 193,232.
Munupalli, 87.
Murab, 407,
NANJENGOD.
Murbād, (Morbar), 295.
Murdeshwar, 229.
Murghpét, 88.
Murtazapur, 112.
Museri, 135.
Mutakurür, 73.
Muttial Pét, 15.
Myaveram, 136.
Mysore (see Maisür).
N.
Nadiyād, 424.
Nadir Singh, 431.
Nadpur, 61.
Nadumbare, 15.
Nägalapuram, 16.
Nāgamangalam, 203.
Nágapatanam, 136, 192.
Nagar, 204, 295.
Nagaram, 58.
Nagarí (Nuggery), 122.
Nagar Thatthá, 470.
Nagaz, 375.
Nágathána (Nagotna),
315.
Nagpore, 114.
Nágpur, 1, 2, 108, 113,
114.
Nágunári, 135.
Nágar, 193.
Naikanairi, 214.
Nairnalli, 217.
Nakhi Talao, 435, 462.
Nakkapalli, 62.
Nakrikal, 80.
Nakkakalva r., 47.
Naladurga (Naldrug), 73.
Nalgunda, 73.
Nallachérla, 62.
Namkal, 12, 135, 147.
Náná Dhundu Pant, 276.
Náná Farnavis, 276, 313,
330, 343.
Nanchíra, 73.
Nandalir, 122.
Nandiál, 118.
Nandialampét, 50.
Nandigáma, 58.
Nandikotkür, 118.
Nandipád, 47.
Nandurbár, 296.
Nangambákam, 15.
Nanjengód, 203.


586
INDEX.
Nernala, 73.
Newäse, 295.
Neyattenkaré, 136.
Nidal or Nírdal, 344.
Nildána, 364.
Nilgiris, 142, 170.
Nipatür, 182.
Nirá, 344.
Nirá Bridge, 262.
Niralár, 217.
Nizām 'Ali, 78, 82, 83,
110.
Nizam's Territory, 1, 2.
Nizamu’l-Mulk, 77.
Norris, Mr., 275.
Norris, Sir W., 266.
O.
Odoricus, 264.
Okhá Mandal, 424.
Omercote, 487.
Ometá, 434.
Ongale, 47, 51.
Onwalagá'on, 394.
Ootacamund, 173.
Orme, 197.
Orpád, 424; defence of
entrenched camp, 483.
Ossoor, 209.
Outfit and Expenses, xvii.
Outram, Col., 391, 401,
487.
Ovans, Col., 391.
Overland Journey, xxiii.;
steamers, xxiv., xxv.;
baggage, xxvi.; transit
through Egypt, xxvii.;
rates of passage money,
xxviii.; what to observe
on, xxviii.; Torres We-
dras and Lisbon, xxix.;
Gibraltar, xxx.; Algiers,
xxxi.; Malta, xxxii.;
# xxxiv.; Alex-
andria, xxxiv.; Lake
Mareotis, xxxvi.; the
£ #.
, xxxvill.; ml
xxxix., xliii. ":
xl.; Nile, xlii.; petri-
fied forest, xlv.; the de-
sert, xlvii.; Suez, xlix.;
Aden, li.
NÁPAD.
Nápád, 424.
Napier, 280, 473, 484,
485, 487.
Nārāyanga'on, 361.
Nárel, 304,315.
Narharipéta, 45, 132,211.
Narkailpalli, 80.
Narmada, or Nerbuddah
river, 434, 447.
Narsapatanam, 57.
Narsapuram, 214.
Narsaravupét, 14.
Narsinghpur, 1.
Narsipur, 203.
Nartampundi, 182.
Nāsik, 241, 261, 262, 295,
363; described, 365.
Nasirābād, 296.
Nasrápur, 295.
Nassick, or Nassuck, 364;
Caves at, 365, 368.
Native Army, cvii., cviii.
Native States, 2, 60, 61,
73, 138, 139, 201, 242,
244, 253.
Nauga'on, 57.
Naukolam, 194.
Naushahra, 475.
Nawalgund, 387.
Nawapura, 434.
Náyar, 15.
N:#d. 204.
Nedduvenkád, 136.
Neilgherry Hills, tribes of,
142, 143, 144; route to,
145; description of,
170; passes to, 170,
171, 172, 173; chief
town of, and hotels at,
173; climate of, 174;
sights at, 175; natural
products, 176.
Nelhál, 214, 218.
Nellakoté, 134.
Nellatür, 122.
Nellavanglam, 203.
Nellialam, 216.
Nelliambalam, 135.
Nellimuku, 61.
Nellar, 1, 2, 15, 17,47, 50.
Nelson, Lord, 282.
Nepean, Sir E., 281.
Neranjakudi, 146.
Nerbuddah river,
447.
434,
PARBATTí HILL.
P.
Pábal, 294.
Pädagádi, 61.
Padana, 58.
Pädalúr, 44.
Pádshapur, 263, 386, 410.
Påhlanpur, 248.
Pahtari, 73.
Pairdr, 133.
Paláchi, 134.
Paládam, 134.
£ 372.
atalagam, 57.
Palghat, 204.
Palghatcheri, 181, 183.
Palla Angadi, 228.
Palikat, 33.
Páliam Kotta, 146, 163.
Pălitána, 437.
Pallapadi, 182.
Pälkonda, 57.
Palliapalliam, 148, 182.
Pallikonda, 38, 41.
# 130, 131, 182.
Pallikunu, 204,
Pallipéta, 182.
Palmanér, 16, 45,132,212.
Palnad, 2.
Palné, 134.
Palpanapuram, 136.
Pålsamudram, 133.
Palwai Chattram, 46.
Pâmri, 127.
Panamurta Kóta, 216.
Panchamál, 135.
Panchapálem, 1, 117.
Pandharpúr,295,344,350.
Pångål, 72.
Pangri, 88, 103, 112.
Panhälä, 386.
Pâniam, 118.
Panjim or New Goa, 401,
407,416.
Panshar, 435.
Panwas, 394.
Panwel, 295.
Pánta Tekelli, 63.
Pāpanāsham, 136,
151; falls at, 164.
Pár, 314, 343.
Paraguttam, 146.
Parántij, 423.
Párbatti Hill, 330.
145,








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