SCHLESINGER LIBRARY RS MD1D I LIONI ! WTS KT REA INT. ..Vo HHAMBERLAIN Samuel and Narcissa Chamberlain Collection The Schlesinger Library THE FRENCH COOK. . ---------- BY LOUIS EUSTACHE UDE, CI-DEVANT COOK TO LOUIS XVI. AND THE EARL OF SEFTON, AND LATE STEWARD TO THE UNITED SERVICE CLUB. SEVENTH EDITION. LONDON: JOHN EBERS, 27, OLD BOND-STREET. 1822. Printed by S. & R. BENTLEY. Dorset street, Salisbury square, Loudon. TO THE GENUINE AMATEURS OF GOOD CHEER, THE FOLLOWING PAGES ARE RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED, BY THEIR VERY DEVOTED, HUMBLE SERVANT, THE AUTHOR. a 2 PREFACE. Upwards of thirty years' practice and assiduous study of my profession, have undoubtedly given me a thorough knowledge of it; and it must be conceded, that to conquer all the difficulties at- tached to it, is not a trifling task. The patronage and encouragement I received in this country, at the hands of one of the best masters man ever served, co-operating with my experience, enabled me to succeed in all my undertakings; and my gratitude can cease only with my existence. Many professional men have written on this subject; but very few of them have possessed at once the theory and practice of the art. I must own, that my severity towards my apprentices, and my unremitting care in keeping the inferiors who attended me, in a state of constant assiduity in what concerned the cleanliness of the kitchen as well as of the larder, has been of the utmost advantage to myself as well as to them: I have the satisfactory reward of seeing all my pupils held in the highest estimation by persons of the greatest distinction. I shall in this edition, as I did in the former, say, that Cookery is an art appreciated by only a very few individuals, and which requires, in addi- PREFACE. tion to a most diligent and studious application, no small share of intellect, and the strictest sobri- ety and punctuality: without the latter, the very best Cook is unavoidably deficient in the delicacies of his profession : there are cooks, and cooks, as there are painters, and painters: the difficulty lies in finding the perfect one; and I dare assert, that the nobleman who has in his service a thorough good one, ought to be as proud of the acquisition, as of possessing in his gallery a genuine production of the pencil of Rubens, Raphael, or Titian. In England the few assistants allowed to a head cook, and the number of dishes he has to prepare, often deprive him of an opportunity of displaying his abilities; and after ten years of the utmost exertion to bring his art to perfection, he has the mortification of ranking no higher than an humble domestic. · As several noblemen and ladies of distinction have remarked to me, that my book contained too many French terms, I have endeavoured in this edition to meet their goodness and liberality towards me, by giving translations of such names as were translatable. But I must still observe, as I did in the preceding editions, that Cookery, like fortifi- cation, music, dancing, and many other arts, being of foreign origin, its nomenclature is, like theirs, in the language of the people who first cultivated it; and hence the impossibility of transferring by an equivalent, many terms into English, so as PREFACE. vii to convey any intelligible meaning. In this case they have been unavoidably retained; but care has been taken to give at the bottom of the respective pages where the expressions occur, such elucidations as may be fully explanatory of their import to the practitioner. As I shall explain the manner of dressing entrées, it is proper for me to observe here, that the word en- trée has no equivalent in English. It is the name of any dish of meat, fowl, game, or fish, dressed and cooked for the first course; all vegetable dishes, jellies, pastries, salad, prawns, lobsters, and in general every thing that appears in the second course, except the roast, are termed entremets. . It is time for me to give the translation of such words as are of most immediate occurrence. French. Potages, ........................ Entrées, .......... Entremets, .... Jelées, .......... Marquez, ...... Masqué, Sautez, ... Reduire, .. Relevé, ......... English. Soups. Made dishes. 1st course. Made dishes. 2d course. Jellies. Mark, or put, &c. Covered with, &c. Fry lightly on the stove. To reduce, or boil down. Remove. Most of the dishes retain their original name. In a former edition I enumerated the articles in sea- son; but I find it useless in the presen't one, because, when in London, the markets and shop-keepers are always provided according to the season ; the price viii PREFACE. of the various articles is always the thermometer to be consulted : when in the country, the Cook must use in preference the produce of the farm and gardens. The futile search after novelty in Cookery, is the running after the philosopher's stone. Every thing is equally good when done in perfection. The sweet dishes that conclude this work, have no translation, any more than plum-pudding has in Paris; it bears the same name there which it does in London; so Suédoise, Charlotte of apples, or Charlotte of apri- cot, rice, and apples, Chartreuse of fruits, apple fri- tures glazed, soufflées, miroton of apples, croquettes of rice farcie d'abricots, croquettes of potatoe, panequet, are at once French and English: however, no difficulty can result from a dish bearing a foreign name, as the way of making it is explained in Eng- lish, and the learner will be easily familiarized with their names. The various articles will be treated of in their respective classes, of which there are seven, viz. soups, fish, removes of either fishes and soups; entrées, entremets, roasts for the second course; in the first course there are always removes; and then the removes of roasts, called soufflées, or biscuits à la crême, or fondus, &c. &c. It is necessary to remem- ber all these observations, as they teach the learner to serve with order; by taking a dish from the dif- ferent classes, you may compose your dinner without any assistance but this book. Suppose you have . eight persons at dinner, you cannot send up less than four entrées, à soup, and a fish; you must have two Plate 1. First Course GOOOOO 200C Le Potage Printannier, relevé * arec La Poularde á la Montmorenci. DOSO JOO CSS96969 SO90099900 29 C90 Fricassee Coteletter DOO de Pouletir d'agneau OOOGOOCOO@en 200DNOSNO 000000000000000 9999999999 98989900958 au nautés, sauce Champignons lála Macédoing18 SOOSSSSS 00000 CCCCCC GOOGLE Dormant (or) CENTER Stationary Dish. 00000000000000000 SE680509 090065COBOG. Tendons de Veau. aurlaituas ál'efrence. OOOOHOSOCOCC. OOOOOO GOOOOOCESS Filets de Poulets gra. Sautés, au supreme OOOOOOOOOO 00000 0909 09 COCOOOC 988993005 Le Poisson, relevé par le Jambon de Westphalie, á l'Essence. 000 000 Second Course. 20,000000 CROSCO9099COLO Cailles, relevées avec un Soufflé. Pesce 00 COGOSOL OORSOOO Coe990GCGLOBO Petits puits d'Amour, Les Petits Pois 3 á la Francair DooOOOGBLOG garnis GOGOROUS confitures, DOGOVOODBC 00000000 Dormant OOOOOOO du Milieu. 200969 BORB004 --- Grosses ACCOG:9029 La Jeleé de fraizes framboisée DOODDOSSOS - asperges DOGGOOOCOCCC - - 2006 UOC 2000.02003 Chapon, relevé avec une Tarte. 2000GORGEOUS *releve avec mans removed by Jones feulp..hydess CourtLe PREFACE. ix . removes, viz. for the second course two dishes of roast, next four entremets; and if you think proper, two removes of the roast. Make the bill of fare, by choosing out of each chapter whatever you may want, namely, a soup, a fish, two removes, four entrées for the first course; then for the second course, two roasts, four entremets, and two removes of the roast. By this I mean that you must take one article out of the chapter that relates to mutton, or lamb, or veal, or fowl, or fish, taking care, however, that no two dishes are to be alike, either in shape, colour, or taste. For the second course you must act on the same principle: the roasts must likewise not bear any resemblance to each other. In summer-time you will select two dishes from among the vegetables, one from among the jellies, and one out of the chap- ter of pastry; as for instance: Bill of Fare for a Dinner of Four Entrées. Soupe printanniere, or spring soup. Crimp cod and oyster sauce. Two Removes. Fowl à la Montmorenci, garnished with a ragout à l'Allemande. Ham glazed with Espagnole. Four Entrées. Fricassée of chicken and mushrooms. Lamb chops sauté, with asparagus, peas, &c. Fillets of fat chicken, sauté au supreme. Petits pâtés of fillet of fowl à la béchamelle. PREFACE. Second Course. Fowls roasted, garnished with water cresses. Six quails. Four Entremets. Asparagus with plain butter. Orange jellies in mosaiques. Cauliflower with velouté sauce. ..Petit gateaux à la Manon. Two Removes of the Roast. Soufflée with lemon. Ramequin à la Sefton. From the above statement it will be easy to make a bill of fare of four, six, eight, twelve, or sixteen entrées, and the other courses in proportion. I have inserted a bill of fare for a dinner of twenty entrées that I served at the Right Hon. the Earl of Derby's at Knowsley-Hall, when the late Duke of Gloucester was in that part of England. The second course was in the same proportion, as it requires the same number of dishes for the second, that you have served in the first. Observe, that whenever there are more than four entrées, symmetry must always be attended to: the two flanks for a dinner of six entrées must be parallel, that is to say, if you place petits pâtés on one side, you must have croquettes on the other; if you have a vol au vent on one side, you must place a pâté chaud opposite, and so on; a judicious arrangement of dishes gives additional merit to .a dinner. Plate 2. First Course. Soupe á la Bonne Femme, relevée avec le Turbot. relevé avec le Dindon á la Périgueur. 390 nnnnODO Salmi Cotelettes de Mouton de perdreaux á la Der Soubise. OOO9 BONEKDO l'Espagnole. SODOTTO GOOO. SPODO SS Vol au vent DORMANT Casserolle d'Escalopes au ris noooooooooo de d'un hachi du Cabilleau ODOROBUSOODOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO 0000000OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO Gibier la Crême. non M ILI E U. au fumez Chogan och GOGGSAGE 8319999 OTO Escalopes de filets 0000OOO Cotelettes de filets de ces 3000DUO de lapreaux, á la conti. C2020. poulets gras, en Epigramme COUCUDOO 9000000 SOSIOS 000000 OOONO POLOS GORA UUUUU Soupe á la Beauveau, relevée avec le Dorey, relevé avec le porc. yoon Plate 3. Second Course. WeSCOS Quatre OSOS be c afe . . . OVDES 09000009 Sodo na OO DOUBOUD Les La truffes entieres, Jelée de vin de au vin de Champagne Madere, dans une serviette OOooooo garnie de jelée CORO GO BOSC DORMANT Les 990990%DOSCO Épinards Cardons d'Espagne, COMOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO 000000000OOMOOOOO00000000000 00000000000000000OOOOOOOOO consommé, á la garnis 1000000000000 moelle, MILIEU. croutons, á l'efrence, 26 CON La Les gateaur á la Polonaise, oooooo OGOS Salade SOSWIOWONDO de garnis de confitures. deux Homards./ COORDOOMOWROO OOOO000000 Quatre Perdreaux. WONOCROSO 009099 OOOOOOOOOOO 009000909000 29 OSALONSO PREFACE. xi The second course requires also a different ar- rangement when you have more than four entrées. At the two flanks you must have two dishes of ve- getables, if approved of; and at the four corners, a jelly, a pastry, a lobster salad, and a cream jelly, &c.; if you have a different instruction, you may put two sweets in the flanks, two vegetables at each opposite corner, and an Italian salad, and a dish of prawns at the two other corners. Bill of Fare of Six Entrées. Dinner for Twelve or Fourteen Persons. Two Potages. Good woman's soup, dite flamande, white and thick. Soup à la bauveau, brown and clear. Two Fishes. Turbot, with lobster sauce. Slices of crimped salmon boiled, same sauce. Two Removes. Turkey à la perigueux, purée of chesnut. Leg of mutton roasted. Six Entrées. Cutlets of mutton braized, with soubise sauce. Salmi of young partridges à l'Espagnole. Vol au vent of salt fish d la maître d'hôtel. Casserole of rice, with a purée of game. Sauté of fillets of fowl à la Lucullus, with truffles. Fillets of young rabbits à la orlies, white sharp sauce. xii PREFACE. Second Course. Two Roasts. Three partridges roasted. Three woodcocks. Six Entremets. Spinach with consommé, garnished with fried bread, Whole truffles with champaign. Lobster salad a l'Italienne. Jelly of marasquino. Buisson of gâteau à la Polonoise. Charlotte of apples with apricot. Two Removes of the Roast. Biscuit à la cream. Fondus. Dinner for Sixteen or Twenty Persons. Two Potages. Soup à la Reine. Brunoise, clear. Two Fishes. Turbot, garnished with fried smelts, lobster sauce. Slices of salmon, with Genévoise sauce. Four Removes. Fowls à la Condé, ragout à l'Allemande. Westphalia ham glazed, and Espagnole under it. Saddle of mutton roasted. Haunch of venison roasted. Eight Entrées. Fillets of young partridges à la Lucullus, with trutlles. Small timballe with a salpicon. Croquettes of fowls au velouté. Plate 4: Bill of Fare for December or January: First Course. O DENSO SE Potage á la Reine, relevě d'une longe de Veau, en Surprise. SUOSU CEREDE Petites Filets de ECCO COCOCO Perdreaur, CoSDORSECUATO GOODICA limballer dun Solpicon á la Monglas ecogresco CCCCCCCCCC CoolXCOM sauter ála Luculus. DAS So0000 BUSSOCCESU UEGE ADOS SMS 995 so Trois Perdreaur á la Barbarie, Italienne, SES ACCO Carre de Veau á la Châlons, Harricots, Vierges. Susu go SOODUOUSSOS Turbot DORMANT Matelotte a la 1000m OSCOGOOOOOOGOGO garni d' éperlans, relevé de deur Domenade du 00000000000000000000000000000 Royale, relevée d'un Jambon de Westphalie OSCOOOOOOOOOOOC GOOOOOOOOOOOOO Poulardes a la Condé. MILIEU. CODD.CO l'Espagnole. GOOOOOOOOOOOO OOOO CO009 DOMOV PO Coteletter SESS OSCO Coco Deur Poulet á la Reine, Aspic liée, & pluche de persil. de porc á la Mirepoix, ál'Espagnole SO SO OSSO Areas SSS Filets mignons de Pouletsgras DASS99000SSOS Petites croquettes de filets de Volailles, au Velouté. lá la Pompadour GODSVESBOSC'RGHERIA Italienne, Potage á la Brunois, relevé ccc9ec360909090 Gerardesces ALCO d'une Selle de Mouton. UUSBRANOS GAISMO Plate 5. Second Course . CORSEASIBOGOS Becassines, relevées d'un Soufflé á la fleur d'Orange, Salcifis, á la Beececceco QeQoDDD 200CCCC.000000000 Maccaroni | ál'Italienne garnie de patisserie sauce blanche, COU ATA Dariolles Jelée á la de vin de OOO Crême. Madere. AAO ESCOGS DORMANT Soccolo Tin CACICO COCOS Deur OSOVOOOO900 momo Liévre, Poulets gras, du relevé COCOCCCOUNOWODWOROCCONDDOC000000000 un piqué avec des ISO 909090 relevés avec 6666uce KABeceros fondues. des ramequins. COTECO 900 MILIEU. KOLC LOG CORSOS Pain de Canapé, Framboises, garni de á la Glase. Marmelade. SOODS TERRIBBEDRE Euks brouillés au 090909009SCN206. trules garnis de croutons de pain frits. Pommes de terre á la | Maitre d'Hotel coupées enliards COUDO TODOS S ar celles, relevées par les Biscuits á la Créme. 100004 overeeSSSSSSSSSSSSS e nne e come PREFACE. xij Small fillets of fowl à la Pompadour. Three small partridges d la Barbarie, with truffles. Two small chickens poëlé, with tarragon sauce. Cutlets of pork à la mirepoix, brown sharp sauce. Cutlets of mutton à l'Italienne. Second Course. Four Roasts. Five snipes. A hare roasted. Two wild ducks. A capon, garnished with cresses. Eight Entremets. Salsifis à la sauce blanche. Macaroni à l'Italienne. Poached eggs, with gravy of veal clarified. Brocoli au velouté. Jelly de noyau rouge. Italian cheese a l'orange. Gateaux à la Madeleine. Little bouchées, garnished with marmalade. Four Removes of the Roasts. Soufflée à la fleur d'orange. Ramequin. Biscuit à la cream. Petits choux à la cream. Dinner for Twenty or Twenty-four Persons. Four Potages. Soup of rabbits a la Reine. Soup à la Carmélite. Soup Julienne. Soup à la Clermont. xiv PREFACE. Four Fishes. Turbot and lobster sauce. Three slices of crimped cod, Pike baked, Dutch sauce. oyster sauce. Matelotte of carp. Four Removes. Rump of beef glazed à la fla- | Boiled turkey, celery sauce. mande. Saddle of mutton roasted. Leg of pork garnished. Twelve Entrées. Small casserolettes of rice, | Small cases of sweetbread dla : mince of fowl. I Vénitienne. Scollops of fillets of fowls, Grenade of small fillets offowls with truffles. à l'essence. Turban of fillets of rabbits. Attelets of sweetbread, Ita- Petits pâtés à la nelle. lienne. Cutlets of fillets of partridges. Petits pátés of oysters à la Chartreuse of palates of beef. Sefton. Fillets of soles à la ravigotte. | Partridges&cabbages dressed. Second Course. Four Roasts. Two fowls with cresses. Two ducklings. Five woodcocks. | Two young rabbits. Twelve Entremets. Spinach à la cream. Cauliflower au velouté. Asparagus with butter. Salsifis à l'Espagnole. Cream au caffé, white. Jelly of Madeira. Sultane with a vol au vent. Fromage Bavarois au chocolat. Small lozenges garnies. Gateau pruliné. Meringues à la Chantilly. | Jelly of marasquino rose. Four Removes. Two dishes of fondus. One of talmouse, or cheese-cake. One of choux en biscuit. Plate o First Course.' O) Bil of Fare for January & February. DAINESODO09 Casserolle auris émince de volailles, au veloute Potage à la Cressi; relevé par un Turbot, relevé parune l'ulotte de Bauf á la Flamande. S ESSORIES HAUTE COURT Petits Påtés anar huitres. Le Turban de hilets de lapará l'Espagnole Peritrir na chour. 13 drefses ál'Efrence. Escaloper de filets de Poularda aur truffes Filets de Solles simutis i la rarigotti Blanche. RA VASE VASE Terrine de B queue de Baur Ill en Harricot, relevé par les Merlans frits | relevés par Ile Dindon en Chipolata. omo00m DORMANT DU MILIEU. ngharge Terrine relevée par un Brochet au four; relevé par un filet With Room enough for l’tensils & a Vase at each corner. Veau Roti. PASSION VASE VASE Aueleto deris de Veau, lahenne Ctrlettes de filets de Pendreaur an - - Za Chartreur Lun Sahian de palais de Beut. lugnnad del hilets mimom B kepouletsgrad ilmmande . .. Petits Pátes á la Nesle, en timballes, Petites Unises de bois gras, vila Dukielled Potage à l'Allemande; relevé par les trunches de cabilleau: 13 relevé par le Cuijsenu ile Pore, aur épinards. Plate 7. --- - -- --- --- - ---- Second Course. - ---- 99999999999OSASSOONESSES La Poularde, relevé par le Flan Picard, Osode SISSE 1999 --- - GROOGS les épinards á la crême garnis de croutons. Les navets, en poire de Roufselet. PacereeSARONOSCOCCINECOCACOOOO -- COLOUR -- Tes Héringues garnies de Chantilli, Moors සිරගෙබවටය tane - -- GG GURO - -- La Creme au catré, blanche, La Jelée de vin d'Espagne. GO - VASE VASE 99969899906 es Lapredur Les de garenne, DORMANT du MILIEU, Perdraur MOOOIGOGOOCOOMOSIS US3009Usou 999999999 relevés O OD O 23600000000000000000000000 relevéer par des (Four Vases &c as before ) par des COCOCO CROCOCODOS Fondues. Fondues, LOUBOUGOUCO VASE : (VASE 60899ceeded GOOOOOOOOO RDC COCUNUM COULDOG Le Fromage á l'Italienne á la glace. La crème au chocola en Petits Pots. MOOC SOLO 3969905 Les Petis Luzenges, garniesde confitures SECONDS HOLOOGICO Le Builson de 3 tienevoiseen gimblettes ఎందనం Les GEOUSO Salsifts frits, garnis de GUUUUU Les (Eufs pochée, lá la chicorée, au velouté./ WAGGGO GOS09000C persil. DOGS Les Canetons, relevés par les Talmouses. 200299300 2002200329320022000an --- PREFACE. XV I have here given only a specimen of the form and general arrangement of a bill of fare'; the selection of the articles rests with the Cook, or the persons who order the dinner. You may serve a good dinner without adhering to the identical dishes which I have selected, or rather mentioned as it were at, random. I think it would be useless to go beyond sixteen entrées ; for a multiplicity of dishes are easily made out. I shall only observe, that with twenty entrées, the counter-flanks must exhibit co- pious entrées, and that for the second course there must be introduced what we call moyens d'entremets, or ornamented dishes, or brioches, or biscuits, or babas, either in the counter-flanks, or at the top and bottom of the table. Eight large pieces of ornaments are not exactly wanted with twenty entrées ; but when you have thirty-two entrées, you must put large pieces at the top and bottom, and the two flanks; and four smaller ones in the four counter-flanks. Whenever a dinner consists of more than eight entrées, those huge pieces are indispensable; but it is then impossible for any Cook to dress them with- out assistants; by himself, he would be able to send up to table nothing but common dishes, to either of the courses. I have not mentioned the second course for the dinner of twenty entrées ; as it is known that there are to be the same number of dishes as in the first course; there must be also the same number of roasts in the room of removes, or of large entrées ; two at xvi PREFACE. ise the top and bottom, two at the flanks, and four at the counter-flanks. If you have assistants enough to make the ornamented pieces, then remove the four roasts of the counter-flanks with soufflées, biscuit, fondus, &c.; and put four large pieces at the top and bottom, and on the two flanks. I have added two cold pies, which are likewise served at a large dinner. I like them to be sent to table with the first course ; and to remain there be- tween the two courses. By this means the epicure and dainty eater will always have something before them. They are not at all in the way, but improve the look of the table. N.B. -The pies may be either of game or poultry. Plate 8 i Bill of Fare for First Course, July &•August. Petitor boucher Potage aur nouilles, relevé pur l'Allorau ii la bilard, coccoccused 17 and de quenelles wkwk Boutins de Lunar Roller l'nne finne fine dhe aprilar10 Drwille. Táté Proiel COOCOS de Faisints, Invita sumnenie nelen d'ime poulante il crime Tnindus de whilhun.rekrviss purlopiti chum biliminis truttes. th The Ministek Tilinn. BOSS Pirudietan ska Paksis 13 de Baul, en gnitin 2811/ Heyvanlayn laurentius pricornis) INT Alevwaniu WIMIT biske filets ws DORMANT BOUD -(((du) - Potage ála Jantien relevé avec la Scle de Mouton notie, ou une hanchu de Vanaison.JP GROSSO Potage a la Julienne, relevedum Road 3 Beef Annean piqué sur les filets (surles deux cuitses ଉତ GC de la Voyage CORO T A BL E. Sauld filets de pouler l'écarlund al supay the term munurila ith Wavel kunma W DOWOCALACATOX les Petits nadine Tlphavincia nihin, SOS Páte Turbot, relevé d'im chapon á La Villeroi Estungon Sirler arveli nguirnos kuirudis, LES POUR SOBRE de Poularite, Jambon. Za filcted Terlarila SCINE 1• Bevelin Vila Rin kun velour under lrtins Le Páte chuna u la 06.0.. Potage au ris, releve par une longe de Veren á la crime. Secarocco.co... COM POORGE 1.zrind OOPA The Potages at the extremeties &on the flanks & the Poiſsons on the counterflanks. Jars feulplydes Co., eiers ADVICE TO COOKS. nence I trust that I shall not be accused of vanity, for seeking to enforce good precepts, as well as for giving good examples. Cooking is an art which requires a great deal of time, intelligence, and activity, to be acquired in its perfection. Every man is not born with the qualifications necessary to constitute a good Cook. I shall demonstrate the difficulty of the art by offering a few observations on some other arts. Music, dancing, fencing, painting, and mechanics in general, possess professors under twenty years of age, whereas in the first line of cooking, pre-eminence never occurs under thirty. We see daily at Concerts, and Academies, young men and women who display the greatest abilities; but in our line, nothing but the most consummate experience can elevate a man to the rank of Chief Professor. I must acknowledge, that there are very few good Cooks, though there are many who call themselves so. This dis- proportion of talent among them is the cause of the little respect in which they are held; if they were all provided with the necessary qualities, they would certainly be con- sidered as artists. What science demands more study than Cookery? You have not only, as in other arts, to satisfy the general eye, but also the individual taste of the persons who employ xviii ADVICE TO COOKS. you; you have to attend to economy, which every one demands; to suit the taste of different persons at the same table ; to surmount the difficulty of procuring things which are necessary to your work; to undergo the want of una- nimity among the servants of the house; and the mortifica- tion of seeing unlimited confidence sometimes reposed in persons who are unqualified to give orders in the kitchen, without assuming a consequence, and giving themselves airs which are almost always out of reason, and which frequently discourage the Cook. In fact, a thousand particulars too tedious to detail, render this employment very laborious, and little honoured. Nevertheless, if you are extremely clean, if you are very sober, and have, above all, a great deal of activity, you will succeed one day or other, in acquiring that confidence, which these qualities always inspire. You have not the power which other artists and mechanics have, of putting off for another day what cannot be done in this; the hour imperiously commands, and the work must be done at the appointed time. Be careful then to have every thing ready for your work always by the time it is required, and above all without noise or confusion. If you possess a thorough knowledge of your profession, or have the entire confidence of your employer,, do not be so inconsiderately proud of it, as to treat any one with disdain, a practice too common among persons in place. Do not take any other advantage of your superiority, than XX ADVICE TO COOKs. dirty vessels, are often exposed to colics and other maladies, without knowing the cause of them It is on a good first broth, and good sauce that you must depend for good Cookery; if you have entrusted this part to persons who are negligent, and if your broth has not been well skimmed, you can make but indifferent work; the broth is never clear, and when you are obliged to clarify it, it loses its goodness and savour. I have elsewhere said, that any thing clarified, re- quires great seasoning, and consequently it is not so healthy. A stock-pot well managed, saves a great deal of trouble, for it would be ridiculous in a small dinner to make several broths. When you have put into the stock-pot the articles and ingredients as directed in the Chapter on that subject, the same broth will serve you to make the soup, and white or brown sauce, &c. Economy is most the order of the day, seeing the dearness of every thing used in the kitchen. You should be very careful to take off the fat, and skim the soups and sauces; it is an operation which must be repeated again and again: the smallest drop of fat or grease is insuf- ferable ; it characterizes bad cookery, and a Cook without method. The different classes of cookery, viz. the soup, the entrées, the fish, the entremets, the roasts, the jellies, the decorated entremets, the pastry, &c. all require the greatest attention. The theory of the kitchen appears trifling; but its practice is.extensive: many persons talk of it, and yet know nothing of it beyond mutton-chops, and beef-steaks, or bubble and squeak, &c. Many writers have exercised their pen upon the subject, and yet know little about it; ADVICE TO COOKS. xxi for instance, the Almanach des Gourmands, la Gastrono. mie, a poem on the subject of Cookery, without treating of it ; both excellent works to read after dinner, but giving no previous advice how to make it properly. Cooks in this country have not the opportunity of in- structing their pupils that we have in France, except at the Royal Palace, where every thing is, and must be, done in perfection, as neither hands nor expense are objects of consideration. The chief Cook must be particular in in- structing his apprentices in all the branches before-men- tioned ; and that they may be certain of teaching them pro- perly, not the slightest particularity of the art must be omit- ted. The difficulties to be conquered are a national preju- dice which exists against French Cookery ; and the cir- cumstance of a young man coming to this employment from school, with his taste settled, and remaining a long time in a kitchen, before he will attempt to taste any thing that he has not been accustomed to; if he does not like Cookery himself, he never can be a good Cook. Cookery cannot be done like pharmacy; the Pharmacist is obliged to weigh every ingredient that he employs, as he does not like to taste it; the Cook, on the contrary, must taste often, as the reduction increases the flavour. It would be blind work indeed without tasting; the very best soups or entrées in which you have omitted to put salt, are entirely without flavour: seasoning is in Cookery, what chords are in music; the best instrument, in the hand of the best pro- fessor, without its being in tune, is insipid. I shall recom- xxii ADVICE TO Cooks. mend particularly to a Cook, to bestow great attention on the sauces; they are the soul of Cookery; all other parts are indispensable, but this is considered the chief part of it. A great difficulty in cooking is the name of the dishes ; Cooks seldom agree upon this point: some names owe their origin either to the Cook who invented them, or to the first Epi- cure who gives them a reputation. Cookery possesses few innovators; I have myself invented several dishes, but been rather shy in giving them my name, for fear of being ac- cused of too much vanity. I confess there are some ridicu. lous names; for instance, soup au clair de lune, soup à la jambe de bois, la poularde en bas de soie, les pets de nonne &c. &c. and many other names still more ridiculous, which I omit to mention in my Treatise. . As Cookery originated in France, it is not a wonder to find most of the names of French extraction-soup à la Reine, à la Condé, à la bonne Femme, &c. entrées à la Richelieu, à la Villeroi, à la Dauphine, à la du Barri. Why should we not see in this book the names of those true Epi- cures who have honoured good Cookery by their approba- tion, and have by their good taste and liberality elevated it to a great superiority in this country, over what it is now in France ? I dare affirm, that Cookery in England, when well done, is superior to that of any country in the world. Béchamelle owes its name to a rich financier who was a great Epicure. I am surprised not to find in Cookery the names of those who have given a celebrity to that science, such as Apicius, Lucullus, Octavius, and those others who ADVICE TO COOKS. xxiii patronized it under the reign of Louis the Fourteenth. Voltaire says in one of his works, “ Qu’un cuisinier est un mortel divin : “ Chloris, Eglé me verse de leur main,” &c. &c. Why should we not be proud of our knowledge in Cookery? It is the soul of every pleasure, at all times, and to all ages. How many marriages have been the consequence of a meeting at dinner? How much good fortune has been the result of a good supper ? At what moment of our existence are we happier than at table? There hatred and animosity are lulled to sleep, and pleasure alone reigns. It is at table that an amiable lady or gentleman shines in sallies of wit, where they display the ease and graceful manners with which they perform the honours of the table. Here the Cook, by his skill and attention, anticipates their wishes, in the happiest selection of the best dishes and decorations ; here their wants are satisfied, their minds and bodies invi- gorated, and themselves qualified for the high delights of love, music, poetry, dancing, and other pleasures ; and is he whose talents have produced these happy effects, to rank no higher in the scale of man than a common servant? Yes, if you adopt and attend to the rules that I have laid down, the self-love of mankind will consent at last, that Cookery shall rank in the class of the Sciences, and its Professors deserve the name of Artists. If you follow my precepts you will never have any ill luck: never be afraid of doing too much for your employer; the idle very seldom succeed; take great care of the com- xxiv ADVICE TO COOKS. pany you keep; a bad companionship is of the worst con- sequences to a man cook ; it makes him take the habit of going out frequently, and returning home again too late to attend to his business: these bad principles will be always highly prejudicial to a Cook, and will prevent him from attaining the perfection required. xxvi ON COOKERY. I am greatly concerned at being obliged to combat a still more powerful, though amiable enemy to Cookery. The Ladies of England are unfavourably disposed towards our art; yet I find no difficulty in assigning the cause of it. It is particularly the case with them (and indeed it is so in some measure with our own sex) that they are not introduced to their parents' table till their palates have been completely benumbed by the strict diet observed in the Nursery and Boarding-Schools. Here then are two antagonists to Cookery--the Ladies and the Doctors, whose empire is as extensive as the universe, and who divide the world between them. However, in spite of the envious, the Ladies will still wield the sceptre of pleasure ; while the dispensations of the Doctors will be sought for by us only when under the influence of pain. Nature affords a simple remedy against the abuse of good cheer--ABSTINENCE.—If you have eaten too much, doubt- less you will feel inconvenienced. In that case, have imme- diate recourse to some weak tea *, which will speedily libe- rate your stomach from the superfluities which encumber and oppress it, without leaving those intestinal pains which are rather the result of the medicine than the effect of the disorder. Numbers of persons attribute the gout to the fre- quent use of dishes dressed in the French way. Many years experience and observation have proved to me, that this dis- order has not its origin in good cheer, but in excesses of * Galen and Hippocrates said, that they left behind them two still greater Doctors than themselves—WATER and ABSTINENCE, ON COOKERY. xxvii other kinds. Have we not seen, in years past, numberless individuals who have lived entirely on French Cookery, to very advanced ages, without being afflicted with that dis- · order and do we not see daily, that the greater number of those who suffer the acute agonies of it, derive it from their predecessors, rather than from their own habits of life? A copious and sustained exercise is the surest preventive. It is true, the gout more frequently attacks the wealthy than the indigent: hence it has been attributed to their way of living; but this is an error. It is exercise only which they need; not an airing on horseback, or in a carriage, but that bodily activity which occasioning fatigue, would enable them to enjoy the sweets of repose. I do not attempt then, as empirics do, to prescribe ineffectually a remedy to cure the gout; but I have this advantage over them, that I afford a positive preventive against it; and thus withhold many a sufferer from falling under their dominion. If the Art of Cookery had been held in a little more estimation, there can be no doubt, but that among its professors many might have been found informed enough, and sufficiently devoted to the interests of the human race, to give prescriptions in Cookery as Doctors give them in medicine. We have this advantage, however, over them, that our compositions are always agreeable to the palate, while theirs are horribly dis- gusting. I therefore recommend a skilfully dressed dish, as in all respects more salubrious than simple fare. I do not mean to deny that a plainly roasted joint, well done, is food of easy digestion ; but I peremptorily proscribe all salted and xxviii ON COOKERY. underdone provisions. Pork, in whatever way it may be dressed, is always unwholesome; yet if dressed in the French fashion, the stimulant of a sauce makes it aperient, and it of course is less indigestive than when dressed plainly. Our man- ner of dressing vegetables is more various and extensive than in England, a circumstance which embraces the double ad- vantage, of flattering the palate and being of easier digestion. I recommend as a certain preventive against disorder, great bodily exercise-as tennis, shuttlecock, fencing, &c. for gentlemen ; and for ladies, dancing, and such lively ex- ercises as are suited to their sex : walking also, but not the grave and deliberate movements of a magistrate, but an active and accelerated pace, such as may occasion fatigue. Thus you may find health and appetite, which afford the pleasure of self-government, by keeping you from the power of Doctors and Doctor's stuff. One more remark; and that on the disproportion of talent which exists among Cooks. A person who has never tasted made dishes, sits down for the first time, perhaps to indifferently dressed ones : hence arises at first setting out an impression, which I confess it is hardly ever possible to overcome. I myself prefer a thousand times, plain dishes, to a made dish that is badly seasoned, badly trimmed, and above all, dressed in an uncleanly manner, and served up with a disagreeable appearance. But the wealthy are able to vanquish these disadvantages, by engaging in their ser- vice persons properly qualified to be placed in the rank of ARTISTS. CONTENTS. CHAP. I. Sauces, Broths, and Consommés. PAGE 12 14 14 14 vo.o. O emo A w w w nois 14 15 First Broth ...... First Consommé.... ..... Consommé of Poultry .... Consommé of Game ...... Consommé of Rabbits .... Blond, or Gravy of Veal. Gravy of Beef. ........... Aspic .................. Jelly of Meat for Pies Suage, or Empotage ...... Clarified Consommé Clarified Gravy ....... Bouillon de Santé ...... Roux (white) ...... Ditto (brown) ....... Coulis ............ Grand Espagnole ...... Espagnole of Game .... Sauce tournée .. Sauce à l'Allemande .... Velouté ................ White Italian Sauce ...... Brown Italian Sauce....... Sauce Hachée White Sharp Sauce ... Brown Sharp Sauce ...... Aspic Lié................ PAGE White Ravigotte. .......... 12 Maître d'Hôtel ......... 13 Maître d'Hôtel Maigre .... Tarragon Sauce, or Pluche.. Bourguignotte......... Bon Beurre............. Béchamelle ............ Béchamelle Maigre.. ..... Genoese Sauce ......... Matelotte ditto for Fish ... 15 Ditto ditto for Entrées .... 16 Apple-Sauce for Geese & Pork 16 Purée of Sorrel .......... Bearnoise.............. | Sorrel en Maigre. ........ 17 Purée of Celery .......... Soubise, or Purée of Onion 18 Ditto ditto, brown and Ly- onaise ....... Purée of White Beans .... 19 Purée of Mushrooms, white and brown .. ......... 20 Purée of Green Peas, new and dry..... Purée of Chesnuts. ....... 12 | Nouilles. 12 Macédoine ........ 17 O 8 ..... 18 ............ 20 XXX CONTENTS. 22 33 33 34 ...... 34 35 35 35 . PAGE PAGE Sauce d'Attelets ........ Butter of Crawfish ...... Sauce for Sturgeon...... Butter of Anchovies ..... Red Cardinal Sauce Glaze ........ Lobster Sauce. Sauce Robert ....... Sauce à la Lucullus ...... Livernoise Velouté .............. Hochepot. .......... Remoulade, common and Polonoise .............. green ................ Cucumbers, or Blanquette.. Mayonaise .......... Ditto Essence of........... Egg Sauce ............. Green Peas in White Sauce Green Extract of Spinach.. Ditto à l'Espagnole ...... Verd de Persil .......... Peas and Bacon .......... Pompadour Sauce ....... Poor Man's Sauce ........ Dusselle ............. Love-Apple Sauce........ Pointes d’Asperge ...... Bitter Orange Sauce .. Haricot (brown).......... Celery Sauce ........ Ditto (vierge) .......... Pascaline .... Green Dutch Sauce ...... Sauce à l'Aurore.. Dutch Sauce ............. 30 Toulouse ............ Sauce Blanche, or French Wasterfisch. melted Butter .......... 31 Oyster Sauce for Fish .... English melted butter .... 21 Ditto for Poultry.......... Ragoût à la Financière .... Italienne with Truffles .... Godard.. ......... Manselle .. Chambord ............. 32 | Marechale Sauce ........ Sami Sauce à l'Espagnole.. 33 / Caper Sauce for Fish ...... . . : 38 . : 38 . : 38. : : : CHAP. II. Potages and Soups. Soupe de Santé ........ 43 Soupe à l'Aurore. ....... Potage Consommé of Fowl 43 Brunoise............... Potage à la Clermont...... 43 Soupe à l'Allemande ...... Ditto à la Julienne........ Ditto à la Condé........ Ditto ditto with Consommé Ditto à la Faubonne ..... of Fowl Ditto à la Carmelite ...... Cressy Soup ............. 44 | Purée of Green Peas ...... CONTENTS. xxxi PAGE PAGE Purée of Peas, very green.. 47 Potage with Cabbage .... Macaroni with Consommé.. 47 German Cabbage Soup.... Lazagnes, or flat Macaroni Good Woman's Soup .... ditto ................. 47 47 | Potage au Nouilles........ 52 Rice Soup .............. Soupe à la Borgosse ....... Ditto, with different Purées Milk Soup with Almond Laurel 53 Vermicelli Soup .......... 48 Pottage au Lait d'Amande 53 Vermicelli à la Reine ...... Turtle Soup.............. 54 Italian Pastes ............ Spring Soup ....... Turnip Broth ............ Gardener's Soup..... Potage à la Reine . ...... Mutton Cutlet Soup .. Semolina with Consommé.. Hochepot Soup ........ Cream of Rice .......... 50 | Mock Turtle ............ Garbure, with brown bread 50 | Potage à la Beauveau...... 50 Entreés that are to be served as Soups, or which want much Sauce, and are consequently to be served in Deep Dishes. Macaroni with Parmesan Cheese.... .......... 59 Breast of Lamb with Green Peas (brown) .......... 60 Ditto (white) ........... Tendrons of Veal with Peas Ditto en Haricot Vierge .. Ditto en Chipolata ....... Peas & Bacon, French fashion Haricot of Breast of Mutton 62 Hochepot of ditto ........ 62 Lamb's Pluck à la Pascaline 63 Civet of Hare............. Duck with Sour Crout.... 63 Ditto (Members of) with French Sour Crout. .... 64 Haricot of Turkey Giblets Ditto of Turkey Pinions .. Legs of Fowl with Nouilles 65 Eggs à la Tripe .......... Eggs à la Crême en Surprise Hochepot of Rump of Beef Ditto en Haricot Brun .... 66 Ditto with Green Peas .... Xxxii CONTENTS. CHAP. III. Removes of the Soups and Fishes. PAGE PAGE Rump of Beef glazed .... 67 Ditto braized ............ 68 Breast of Beef à la Flamande 68 Sirloin of Beef roasted.... Leg of Mutton ditto...... Saddle of ditto, ditto...... Leg of Mutton braized .... Loin of Veal roasted ...... Ditto à la Bechamelle...... Ditto à la Crême.......... Calf's Head, plain ......... Ditto, with Love-Apple Sauce 72 Ditto Bigarrée... ......... Ditto du Puits certain ... Ditto à la Chambord ...... 73 Farm-Yard Turkey à la Montmorenci .......... 73 | Turkey and Celery Sauce .. 73 Ditto à la Perigueux, with Truffles ............. 74 Ditto, boiled with Oyster Sauce 80 Fowls à la Condé ......... Ditto à la Montmorenci .. 75 Ditto à la Mirepoix ...... Capons à la Turque ...... Ham (Westphalia) à l’Essence 75 Ditto with Madeira ...... Ditto with Windsor Beans Roast Beef of Lamb ...... Ditto of Mutton Saddle of Fawn ..... Haunch of Venison .... Neck of ditto ............ Leg of Pork ...... Fish sent up with the Soups, or as a Remove of the Soup. Turbot with Lobster Sauce 80, Soles broiled Ditto broiled ............ 81 | Whitings, fried .......... 84 Salmon with Lobster Sauce 81 Ditto, ditto French fashion Ditto broiled, with Caper Ditto, boiled ............ Sauce ..................81 Mackarel, boiled.......... Ditto crimped............. Mackarel, broiled ........ Ditto, with Genevoise Sauce Haddocks, boiled ........ Cod with Oyster Sauce .... Skate with Shrimp Sauce .. Cod (slices of crimped).... Pike (boiled) with Dutch Sauce 86 Ditto with Cream Sauce .. 83 Ditto baked.............. John Dory with Lobster Sauce 83 Ditto à la Genevoise ...... Ditto with Anchovy Sauce 83 | Ditto à la Polonoise ...... Soles, fried or broiled .... 83 b Ditto à la Chambord ...... CONTENTS. xxxiii PAGE PAGI Pike au Court Bouillon.... 88 Carp au bleu, farci and baked 90 Court Bouillon for Fish au bleu 89 Ditto with Matelotte Sauce 91 Trout à la Genevoise ...... Ditto, broiled, with Caper Sturgeon roasted.. ........ Sauce ..... ............. Ditto, baked Tench ................. Ditto, plain boiled ........ Perch ........ Carp au bleu without Sauce 90 | Ditto au Water Suchet.... CHAP. IV. Farces or Forced Meats. Panadas for Farces in general 93 | Boudins à la Richelieu .... 97 Quenelles of Veal ........ Ditto à la Sefton........ Ditto of Fowl..... ...... Farce of Carp......... Ditto of Rabbits........ Ditto of Godiveau ..... Ditto of Partridges ....... Ditto, green marbled ... Ditto of Whitings ........ Ditto, red marbled ........ Farce of Fowl à la Cream .. 96 Ditto for Pies ............ Ditto à Gratin of Partridges, Ditto for Sausages ......... 101 Rabbits and Fowl ...... 97 | Stuffing for Hare or Turkey 100 CHAP. V. Entrées of Butchers' Meat. BEEF. Beef Palates, Blanquettes of 102 Beef Palates, Miroton of, à Ditto ditto, with Peas .... 102 la Ude ................ 104 Ditto ditto, with Cucumbers 102 Ditto ditto, Croquettes of, Ditto ditto, with Truffles .. 103 au Velouté ............ 104 Beef Palates, Attelets of, à Beef Tongue with Sauce l'Italienne ............ 103 Hachée..... ...... .. 105 Beef Palates au gratin, or en Ditto ditto, Miroton of, Paupiette ............. 104 | with Turnips .......... 105 xxxiv CONTENTS. PAGE PAGE Beef Tonguc, Miroton of, Miroton of Beef .......... 108 with Sorrel Sauce ...... 105 Beef Kidney with Champaign 108 Ditto ditto ditto with Spinach 106 | Beef Steaks with Potatoes, Tongue, Miroton of, with French fashion......... 108 mashed Turnips ........ 106 Sirloin of Beef braized .... 108 Ditto Pickled, glazed and Roast Beef .............. 109 bigarré ................ 106 Brisket of Beef à la Flamande 110 Fillet of Beef sauté à la Rib of Beef, braized en Lyonaise .......... 107 Hochepot.............. 110 Ditto Marinaded à la Broche 107 L'Entre Côte of Beef broiled, Ox Tail in Hochepot ...... 107 | Sauce Hachée ........ 110 moc ... CHAP. VI. "S of Entrées of Mutton and Lamb. Mutton Cutlets à la Soubise 111 | Sheep's Tongues with Cab- Ditto ditto en Haricot Vierge 112 | bage Lettuce .......... 118 Ditto ditto à la Minute .... 112 Ditto ditto au gratin ...... 119 Ditto ditto à l'Italienne .... 113 | Ditto ditto à la Maintenon 119 Ditto ditto à l'Epigramme . 113 Mutton hashed .......... 119 Ditto ditto en Haricot Brun 113 Ditto,minced withCucumbers 120 Ditto ditto Sautés à l’Essence 114 Ditto ditto with Endive .... 120 Ditto ditto à la Maintenon 114 Sheep's Tails with purée of Ditto, inside fillets of, mari green Peas ............ 120 naded ................ 115 Ditto ditto à la St. Laurent 120 Ditto dittò à la Maréchale 115 Sheep's Brains en Matelotte 121 Ditto do. with purée of Sorrel 115 Ditto Trotters à la Poulette 121 Mutton (Necks of) en ai Ditto ditto en Canelons .... 122 grettes ................ 116 | Ditto ditto, fried .......... 122 Ditto ditto with Parsley.... 116 Ditto Kidneys broiled .... 123 Carbonades à la Jardinière .. 116 Ditto ditto with Champaign 123 Breasts of Mutton à la Ste. Leg of Mutton braized .... 124 Menhoult ............ 117 Ditto stuffed ............. 124 Musette of Mutton with Ditto boiled ............. Endive ................ 117 Neck of Mutton boiled ..... Sheep'sTongues with Turnips 118 CONTENTS XXXV CHAP. VII. Entrées of Veal. PAGE PAGE Veal Cutlets broiled à l'Ita Ditto ditto à la Paysanne .. 136 lienne ................ 126 Calf's Brain en Matelotte .. 139 Ditto ditto à la Venitienne 126 Ditto à la Maître d'Hôtel .. 139 Ditto ditto à la Dauphine 127 Ditto with fried Parsley ... 139 Ditto ditto à la Mirepoix .. 127 Ditto, Marinade of ....... 140 Ditto ditto à la Maintenon 127 Ditto, with Love-Apple Sauce 140 Ditto ditto à la Chingara .. 128 Tendrons of Veal à la Jardi- Ditto ditto à la Dreux .... 128 nière ................ 141 Ditto ditto à la Châlons ... 128 Ditto with green Peas(brown) 141 Ditto ditto à la Financière 129 Ditto, ditto (white) ....... 141 Veal (Neck of) à la Cream 129 Ditto with Cabbage Lettuce Ditto ditto à la Mirepoix .. 129 I'à l'Espagnole .......... 141 Ditto ditto à la Barbarie.... 130 Ditto en Marinade dites au Ditto ditto à la Ste. Menhoult 130 Soleil ................. 141 Fricandeau with the different Ditto en Chipolata (white).. 142 Purées ................ 131 Ditto ditto (brown)....... 142 Grenadins of Veal, with Pu Ditto with Purée of Chesnuts 142 rée of White Celery .... 133 Calf's Ears farcies, and fried 142 Noix of Veal en Bédeau .. 133 Ditto with Love-Apple Sauce 142 Veal à la Bourgeoise ...... 134 Ditto withGreen Dutch Sauce 143 Sweetbreads à la Dauphine 134 Ditto with Ravigotte Sauce 143 Ditto à la Financière ...... 135 Calf's Liver, larded & roasted 143 Ditto à la Dreux.......... 135 Ditto (Scollops of) aux fines Ditto (Scollops of) with Herbes .............. 143 green Peas ............ 137 Petites Noix d'Epaules de Ditto (Attelets of) à l'Ita- Veau with Sorrel........ 144 lienne ................ 137 Noix of Shoulder of Veal Sweetbreads (small cases of, with Endive............ 144 scollops of) ............ 138 Calf's Feet, plain. ........ 144 Ditto Croquettes of........ 138 Ditto ditto marinaded. .... 145 Blanquette of Veal with Cu Ditto ditto farcis en Soleil.. 145 cumbers .............. 136 | Ditto ditto à la Poulette. ... 145 c 2 Xxxvi CONTENIS. CHAP. VIII. Entrées of Fowl. PAGE 48 149 149 : : 150 : : : ... 151 PAGE Fowl au consommé ....... 146 | Wings of Fowl à la St. Laurent 155 Ditto au gros sel .......... 147 Fillets of Fowl sautez au Su- Ditto à la Villeroi ........ 147 prême ................ 156 Ditto à la Montmorenci.... Ditto ditto à la Chingara .. 158 Ditto à la Condé.. ....... .. 148 Scollops of Fowl with Cu- Ditto à la Turque cumbers .............. 156 Ditto à la Dreux........ Ditto ditto with Essence of Ditto with green Oysters Cucumbers .......... 156 Ditto with Olives ...... Ditto ditto with Truffles .. 157 Ditto à la Crême ...... 150 Ditto ditto à la Conti wiih Ditto à la Monglas...... Truffles .............. 158 Ditto à la Dubaril ....... 152 Ditto ditto with green Peas 158 Ditto à la Mirepoix ...... 152 Blanquette of Fowl Marbrée 159 Ditto à la Cardinal........ 153 Wings of Fowl à la Dauphin 159 Ditto à Campire with raw Pudding à la Reine ........ 160 Onions ................. 153 Croquettes of Fowl au Ve- Ditto à la Tartare ........ 153 louté.................. 160 - Ditto à la Chingara ....... 154 Minced Fowl à la Polonoise 161 Ditto with Tarragon Sauce 154 Legs of Fowl (Duckling like) 161 Ditto with Cauliflowers.... 155 | Ditto en Balotine ....... Cutlets of Fillets of Fowl, Ditto à la Orlie ......... with Crumbs of Bread à Ditto à la Dreux.... ... la Maréchale ......... 155 CHAP. IX. Entrées of Fat Chickens. Chickens à l'Ivoire........ 164, Ditto à la Turque ........ 165 Ditto à la Villeroi ........ 164 Ditto with Italian Paste.... 166 Ditto à la Montmorenci .. 165 | Ditto aux Nouilles ........ 166 Ditto à la Condé. ......... 165 | Ditto à la Tartare ........ CONTENTS. Xxxvii PA PAGE Chickens à la Givry ...... 167 Quenelles of Chicken with Ditto à la Barbarie with clarified Consommé .... 175 Truffles .............. 167 Rissolles of Chicken ...... 176.com Ditto à la Cardinal ........ 168 | Croquettes of Chickens au Fillets of fat Pullets à la Velouté .............. 176 m eno Royale ............... 168 Fricassée of Chickens au Cutlets of Chicken à l’Epi Naturel ..............: 177 gramme ............... 169 Ditto ditto à la Paysanne .. 178 Fillets of fat Chicken au Ditto ditto à la Chevalière.. 178 Suprême ............. 169 Ditto ditto à la St. Lambert 179 Ditto ditto à la Lucullus .. 170 Ditto ditto à la Dauphine .. 179 Scollops of Chicken with Ditto ditto à la Bardoux .. 180 Truffles .............. 171 Marinade of Chickens à la Ditto ditto à la Conti with St. Florentin ......... 179 , ditto ................. 171 Friteau of Chickens ..... 180 Ditto ditto à l’Essence of Capilotade of ditto ... .... Cucumbers ............ 171 Marinade Cuite, or Members Wings of Chicken à la Maré of Chicken au Soleil .... 181 chale.. ...... ......... 172 Ditto of Chickens à la Orlie 181 Blanquette of Chicken à la Minced Chickens à laPolonoise 181 Turque.................172 Blanquette of Chickens with Sauté of Fillets of Chicken à green Peas ............ 181 la Turque.............. 173 Soufflé of Chickens à laCrême 182 Ditto ditto au Suprême ... 173 Gratin of Fillet of Chicken Wings of Chicken à la Dau- with Velouté .......... 182 phine ............... 173 Galantine of Chicken...... 183 Boudins of Fillets of Chicken Boudins of Chicken à la Ude 184 à la Reine ............ 173 Grenade of Fillets of Chicken 184 Ditto ditto à la Richelieu .. 173 Turbans of Fillets of Chicken Ditto ditto à la Sefton .... 174 à la Sultane ........... 185 xxxviii CONTENTS. CHAP. X. Entrées of Partridges, young and old. PAGE 189 PAGE Partridges à l'Espagnole.... 187 | Sauté of Fillets of Partridges Ditto à la Montmorenci.... 188 à la Sefton ............ 194 Ditto à la Barbarie ....... Croquettes of Partridges.... 195 Ditto à la Dreux.. ....... Soufflé of ditto............ 195 Ditto à la Crapaudine...... Purée of Game à l'Espagnole 195 Ditto à la Givry .......... Salmi of Partridges à l’Es- Ditto (Compotte of) à blanc 190 pagnole ............... 196 Ditto (ditto) à brun ...... 191 Partridges à la Monglas.... 197 Ditto dressed with Cabbages 191 Ditto en Surprise ........ 197 Sauté of Fillets of Partridges, Quenelles of Partridges au au fumet of Game ...... 193 fumet ................ 198 Cutlets of Partridges en Epi- Boudins of ditto .......... 198 gramme, with Truffles .. 194 Quenelles of ditto à la Sefton 198 CHAP. XI. Rabbits. Fillets of Rabbits à la Orlie 199 | Giblottes of Rabbits ...... 204 Turban of Fillets of ditto à White Giblottes of Rabbits 205 la Sultanc ............. 199 Fillets of Rabbits en Lorg- Mince of Rabbits au fumet 201 nette ................. 205 Scollops of Rabbits with Hot raised Pie of Rabbits .. 206 Truffles, or à la Conti.... 201 Quenelles of Rabbits ...... Blanquette of Rabbits with Gratin of Rabbits ........ green Peas ......... 201 Soufflé of Rabbits ........ 207 Scollops of Rabbits au fumet 202 Croquettes of ditto ........ 208 Ditto à la Conti ........... 203 Boudins of ditto à la Reine 208 Rabbits en friteau ........ 203 Ditto ditto à la Richelieu .. 209 Ditto à la Venitienne...... Legs of Rabbits à la Main- Ditto en Caisses .......... 204 tenon .............. 209 • 207 207 203 CONTENTS. xxxix PAGE PAGE Rissolles of Rabbits ...... 209 Attereaux of Rabbits à l'Ita- Boudins of do. à la Lucullus 210 lienne................ 211 Fillets of Rabbits à la Maré Rabbits and Onions...... 213 chale .............. ........ 210 | Rabbit Soup ........... 213 210 Ditto ditto à la Pompadour 211 | CHAP. XII. 220 229 221 Hares and Leverets. Pigeons. Hare en Daube.. ....... 215 Compotte of Pigeons (brown) 226 Civet of Hare ......... 216 Ditto ditto à la Paysanne.. 226 Fillets of Hare with the Blood 217 Pigeons à la Crapaudine .. 227 Ditto ditto en Chevreuil .. 218 Ditto au Soleil .. ....... 227 Roasted Hare, Pains of Hare, Cutlets of Pigeons à la d'Ar- Boudins of Hare ...... 218 magnac .............. 228 Hare Soup.............. 219 Ditto ditto à la Maréchale 228 Pigeons à la Financière. 229 Quails. Ditto à la Thoulouse...... 229 Compotte of Quails . .... Ditto à l’Aspic Clair. ..... Ditto ditto white .. .... 221 Ditto in various ways .... 230 Quails with Peas ........ Ditto au Gratin ........ Ducks, Wild Ducks, &c. Ditto à la Bourguignotte.. 222 | Duck with Turnips ...... 231 Ditto à la Cmapaudine .... 222 Ditto with Green Peas .. 231 Ditto with Purée of ditto.. 232 Woodcocks and Snipes. Ducklings à la Bigarrade .. 232 Salmi of Woodcocks... 223 Salmi of Wild Duck. ..... 233 Ditto ditto à l'Espagnole.. 223 Members of Duck with Croustade of Purée of Wood- Purée of Lentils ...... 233 cocks ................ 223 Duck with Olives ........ 234 Salini of Woodcocks à la Capilotade of Duck ...... 234 Lucullus ............ 224 Larks. . Plovers. Larks au gratin .......... 234 Capilotade of Plovers ... 225 Caisses of Larks ........ 235 221 CONTENTS. PAGE PAGE Hot raised Pies of Larks .. 235 | Croquettes of Pheasant.. 237 Larks en Croustade ...... 236 Hachi of Pheasant à la Po- lonoise .............. Pheasants. Soufflé of Pheasant ....... 238 Salmi of Pheasants à l'Es- pagnole .............. 236) 238 CHAP. XIII. Fresh-Water Fish. Bouillon..... 250 243 Carp. Pike with Dutch Sauce... 247 Ditto baked in the French Broiled Carp, with Caper way .................. 248 Sauce ................ 239 Ditto with Sauce à Matelotte 249 Carp farcie, baked........ 240 Fillets of Pike à la Maître Carp au bleu, and au Court d'Hôtel ................. 249 240 Ditto à la Maréchale ..... 249 Court Bouillon ........... 240 Ditto à la Turque ....... 250 Carp à la Chambord .... Pike à la Chambord ..... Matelotte of Carp à la Royale .............. 242 Perch. Ditto ditto à la Marinière.. Petits Pâtés of farce of Carp 243 1 Perch à la Waterfisch .... 250 Ditto plain boiled, or Wa- ter Suchet.............. 251 Matelotte of Eels ....... 244 Ditto à la Maître d'Hôtel 251 Tronçons of Eels broiled à Ditto plain boiled with la Tartare ............ 244 Dutch Sauce .......... Ditto ditto à la Poulette ... 245 Ditto ditto, larded and Tench. glazed ............. 246 Fried Tench ............ 252 Eels baked ............. 246 Trout and Salmon-Trout. Pike. Eels. 252 Pike à la Polonoise ...... 246 | Trout au Court-Bouillon .. 253 Ditto with Genévoise Sauce 246 Ditto with Genevoise Sauce 253 CONTENTS. xli PAGE PAGE Fillets of Trout à l'Aurore 253 Crawfish. Baked Trout 254 Crawfish à la Poulette .. 255 Trout plain boiled ...... 254 | Ditto (Bisque of) ...... 255 Ditto for Entrées ........ 256 Lamprey ....... ... 254 | Shad ............. 257 CHAP. XIV. Salt-Water Fish. Cod. Turbot. | Salmon with Genevoise Sauce 264 Turbot plain boiled .... 258 Ditto Matelotte Sauce .. 265 Ditto Fillets of à la Maréchale 258 Sturgeon. Ditto ditto à la. Crême .... 259 Roast Sturgeon ....... Gratin of Fillets of Turbot 265 Baked ditto ............. 265 au Velouté ......... 259 Sturgeon à la Ude ...... 266 Volau Vent d'Escalopes of Blanquette of Sturgeon à la Turbot au bon beurre.. 260 Paysanne ............. 266 Petites Timballes of Fillets Ditto ditto with green Peas 266 of Turbot à la Venitienne 261 Croquettes of Sturgeon .. 267 Turbotin broiled with Caper Sauce ............. 261 Cod with Oyster Sauce .. 267 Brill ................. 262 Ditto with Cream Sauce.. 267 Scollops of Cod en bonne John Dory ............ Morue .............. 268 Vol au Vent of Scollops of Salmon. Cod à la Crême ...... 268 Crimped Salmon with Lob Scollops of Cod à la Maître ster Sauce .......... 2021 d'Hôtel ........... 209 Ditto broiled with Caper Sauce .............. 263 Salt Cod. Cutlets of Salmon à la Mai Salt Cod à la Maître d'Hôtel 269 tre d'Hôtel 263 Ditto à la Provençale .... 270 Salad of Salmon ........ 263 | Ditto with Cream Sauce .. 270 262 xlii CONTENTS. PAGE PAGE Salt Cod à la bonne Femme, 270 Fillets of Piper à la Sefton 283 Ditto à la Lyonaise ..... 270 Ditto ditto à la Maître d'Hôtel 283 Ditto Plain Egg Sauce .. 271 | Ditto ditto à la Orlie .... 283 Whitings. Red Mullet ............ 283 Broiled Whitings ...... 271 Fillets of ditto à la Orlie.. 271 Mackarel. Quenelles of Whitings .. 272 Mackarel à la Maître d'Hôtel 284 Boudins of ditto à "la Ude 272 Ditto boiled ....... 284 Fillets of ditto à la Maître Fillets of ditto à la Ste. d'Hôtel ............ 273 Menhoult ............ 285 Paupiettes Fillets of Whiting 273 Do. do. à la Maitre d'Hotel 285 Whitings au gratin ...... 274 Ditto ditto à la Ravigotte 285 Ditto fried ............ 274 Timballe of soft Roes of . Soles. Mackarel à la Sefton .. 285 Soft Rocs of Mackarel in Soles au Water Suchet .. 275 Cases ............. 286 Paupiettes of Fillets of Soles 275 Fillets of Soles à la Ravigotte 276 Sea Dragon ........... Ditto ditto à la Orlie .... 276 Timballes of Fillets of Soles Anchovies ........... 287 à la Venitienne ...... 277 Vol au vent of Fillets of Smelts .............. 287 Soles with Cream Sauce 277 Fillets of Soles à l'Aurore.. Skate. Soles à la Miromesnil .... 278 Skate with Caper Sauce .. Aspic and Salad of Fillets Ditto au beurre Noir .... 288 of Soles with Butter of Ditto plain boiled........ Montpellier .......... 279 Small Skates fried ......, Croquettes of Fillets of Soles 281 Fillets of Soles à la Turque 281 Flounders .............. 288 Fresh Herrings. Plaice.................. Fresh Herrings broiled. 281 289 Ditto ditto (soft roes of) in Lobster. cases ................ 282 Small Timballes of Lobster Piper. au Velouté .......... 289 Baked Piper, with Dutch Scollops of Lobster in the Sauce .............. 282 Shell ................ 290 2777 287 288 288 CONTENTS. xliii PAGE PAGE Lobster Sauce......... Salad of Lobster ......... 290 290 Small Oyster Patties à la Sefton ................ 292 Small Patties à la Française . 292 Oyster Sauce.............. 293 Ditto ditto for Entrées ...... 293 Attelets of Oysters ........ 293 Mussels. ............... 291 Crabs ........ Oysters. Scollops of Oysters ........ 292 EGGS, 298 . 299 Omelette Moëlleuse ....... 295 | Fried Poached Eggs ....... 298 Ditto au fines Herbes...... Eggs à la Tripe .......... 298 Small ditto with Ham...... 296 Ditto à la Maître d'Hôtel 298 Ditto ditto with Sorrel .... 296 | Ditto à l'Aurore......... Omelette with Veal Kidney 296 | Ditto en surprise........ Small Omelettes with Sweet Croquettes of Eggs meats ........ ......... 296 Andouilles of Eggs .... Fried Eggs ........ Eggs à la Neige ....... Eggs au Miroir ......... 297 Les Cocottes ......... 300 Poached Eggs ............ 297 297 | Eggs brouillés .......... . 300 . 297 300 . . 301 ENTREMETS OF VEGETABLES. Cardons. Endive. Cardons à l'Espagnole...... 302 | Endive with Gravy of Veal.. 306 Ditto à l’Essence with Marrow 303 Ditto au Velouté.......... 306 Ditto au Velouté.......... 303 Ditto à la Française ....... 307 Ditto à la Sauce blanche.... 304 Cauliflowers. Spinach. Cauliflowers à laSauce blanche 307 Spinach au Consommé .... 304 Ditto au Velouté. ..... ... 307 Ditto with Cream ......... Ditto with Parmesan Cheese 308 Ditto, French fashion ..... Ditto à l'Espagnole........ 308 Croustades of Spinach... .. 305 xliv CONTENTS. PAGE PAGE Sea Kale ................. 320 309 Salsifis. Salsifis au Velouté ........ Ditto à l'Espagnole........ 309 Ditto fried................ 309 Ditto en Salade or Aspic .. 310 Brocoli ............ ..................... 320 321 311 Potatoes. Potatoes à la Maître d'Hotel 321 Ditto fried ... 321 Ditto (Puréė of).......... Ditto Croquettes of....... Ditto Casserolles of ....... Ditto Soufflé of ......... ... 322 Ditto Gateau of .. ....... Ditto Biscuits of... ...... 323 311 Artichokes. Artichokes au Naturel ...... Ditto à l’Estouffade........ Ditto à la Barigoule ....... Ditto à la Provençale ...... 312 Ditto fried .............. Ditto à l'Italienne ......... Artichoke Bottoms........ 313 Blanc for Vegetables in ge- neral .................. 313 Artichoke Bottoms en Ca- napes................... 314 312 313 Young Green Peas. Peas, French fashion ....... 324 Ditto stewed with Bacon ... 325 Ditto plain boiled ........ 326 Ditto à la Paysanne........ 326 French Beans. French Beans à la Poulette.. 314 Ditto à la Lyonaise........ 315 Ditto à la Française........ Ditto à la Provençale ...... Windsor Beans. Windsor Beans à la Poulette 327 Ditto with Bacon ......... 327 315 White Beans. White Beans à la Maître d'Hôtel................ Ditto à la Lyonaise........ 316 Ditto (Purée of)........... 316 Turnips. Turnips with Sauce blanche 328 Ditto glazed, Pear fashion .. 328 Ditto, white Purée of...... 328 Ditto, brown Purée of ..... 328 316 Asparagus. Carrots. Asparagus with Sauce blanche 317 Carrots à la d'Orleans. . .... 329 Asparagus Peas ........... 318 Ditto Purée of.... ...... 329 Ditto Soufflé of .......... 329 Cucumbers. Cucumbers farcis......... 319 Celery. . Ditto à la Poulette ........ 319 | Celery à l'Espagnole ..... 330 Ditto Cardon fashion ...... 320 Ditto with Sauce blanche .. 330 CONTENTS. SWEET ENTREMETS. PAGE 331 332 333 : : 336 351 · PAGE Apples. Egg and Water Cream .... 346 Apples à la Portugaise ..... Eggs au Bouillon,and reversed 346 Ditto Miroton of.......... Eggs à la Neige ......... 347 Ditto Suédoise of.......... Italian Cream ........... 347 Ditto Chartreuse of...... Pine-Apple Cream ........ 348 Ditto Turban of ........ 333 Cabinet, or Chancellor's Pud- Crême Patissiere ........ 334 ding .................. 348 Frangipane .............. 334 Soufflé, or Cake of Tapioca 348 Tapioca gratiné .......... 349 Rice for Entrées. Croquettes of Chesnuts .... 349 Casserolle of Rice ........ 335 Cassolettes of Rice ........ Soufflés for Entremets. Rice Cake ........... Souffléof Potatoes with Lemon 350 Croquettes of Rice ... Ditto of Orange-Flower .... 351 Soufflé of ditto. ...... Ditto of ground Rice ...... 351 Rice gratine.............. Ditto of Bread............ 351 Ditto Turban of .......... 339 Ditto of Coffee ........... Ditto, Croquettes of, with Ditto of Chocolate .. 352 Apricot Marmalade ...... 340 | Ditto of Vanilla ..... Ditto, ditto, stuffed with.. Ditto of Saffron ...... 352 Apples ................ 340 Ditto of Rose ............ Soufflé of Apples in a bordure Ditto Pine-Apple, &c. &c... 352 of Rice... ..... 340 Omelette Soufflé .......... 352 Charlotte of Apples, mixed with Rice .............. 341 Pancakes. Pancakes, French fashion .. 353 – Ditto, English ditto ........ 353 Coffee Cream ........... 342 Lemon ditto .............. 342 Jellies of Fruit. Chocolate ditto ........... 343 Strawberry Jelly .......... 354 Cream à la Vanille ....... 343 Raspberry ditto............ 355 Ditto au Thé ............. 344 Red Currant ditto ......... 355 Orange-Flower Cream .... 344 Currant Jelly with Raspber- Cream à la Genêt, dite au ries....... ........ 355 Caramel ............... 344 White Currant Jelly ...... To melt Isinglass.......... 345 | Orange Jelly............ 352 352 Creams. 355 355 xlvi CONTENTS. 359 378 PAGE PAGE Lemon Jelly ............. 356 ) Paste for Tarts and Tourtes 373 Mosaic ditto.............. 350 Pine-Apple ditto. ......... 358 Puff-Paste .............. 374 Cherry ditto. ... ....... 358 Jelly and Miroton of Peaches Pastry for Entrées. à la Ude .............. | Vol au Vent ............. 376 Calf's Foot Jelly. ........ 359 Ditto for Sultane......... 376 Madeira Wine Jelly ....... 360 Petits Pâtés of all sorts .... 376 Fromages à la Glace, or Fromages Small Timballes for all sorts Bavarois. of Entrées, or for Darioles à la Cream of every flavour 377 Fromage of Apricots ...... 361 Dariole à la Cream........ 377 Ditto of Strawberries ...... Ditto of Raspberries ...... 362 Ramequins à la Sefton .... 378 Ditto of Orange-Flowers .. 362 Ditto common . ......... Cheesecakes ............. 378 Ditto à la Vanille... ..... Ditto au Marasquin ....... Ditto, French ............ 379 Ditto au Chocolat ...... Pastry for Entremets. Ditto au Café ... ...... 363 Marbled Jellies .......... Gateaux à la Polonoise .... 379 Marbled Cream au Café.... 3 Puits d'Amour with Jam.. 380 - Ditto ditto White Vanilla Petites bouchées, garnished 380 and Chocolate.......... 364 Lozenges ditto............ 380 Feuillantines Pralinées .... Hot and Cold Pastry. Gateaux à la Manon ...... Pâte Brisée .............. 366 Croques en Bouche ....... 381 Cold Pie en Timballe...... 368 Feuillantines garnished .... 382 Cold or Hot Pies of Fowl or Petites paniers garnished with Game, either dressed or in Jam .. ............... 382 Timballes.............. 369 Petites Nattes decorated.... 382 Consommé for the inside of Little Cockades garnished.. 383 .... 370 Apricot Cakes trellised .... 383 Paste for Hot raised Pies ... 370 Hot Water Paste ......... 3 Brioche Paste ............ 384 Trufles. Gateau de Compiegne ..... 386 Truffles withChampaignWine372 Baba.. ............... 386 Ditto à l'Italienne ........ 372 Brioches au Fromage ... .. 381 . 381 ditto. .. 386 Timballe for Macaroni .... 373 | Nougat lle for Macaroni .... 373 | Nougat ....... ........ 387 CONTENTS. xlvii 396 PAGE 1 PAGE Sweet Entremets and Hot Pastry. Paste for Tarts............ 396 Dry Meringues ......... 387 Crême patissiere, or Frangi- Meringues au Marasquin .. 388 pane ...... Almond Paste............ 397 Ginblettes Paste.......... 389 Tartlets of ditto .......... 398 Ditto ditto with Strawberries 398 Royal Paste, dite au Choux 390 Tartlets of Jam .......... 399 Gauffres à la Flamande.... 399 Petits choux pralinées ..... 391 Gateau à la Madeleine .... 400 Gimblettes à la d'Artois .. 391 Genevoise Paste .......... 400 Ditto Pralinées ......... 392 White Gimblettes of Gené- Basket of Petits Choux à la voise.................. 401 Chantilli ............. 392 Rose, or Green ditto ditto.. 401 Pains à la Duchesse ...... 393 Choux en Biscuits, or Ga Fruit Tart, English manner 401 - teaux à la d'Artois ...... 393 Receipt to make a Ham su- Savoy Biscuits, hot. ...... perior to those of West- Ditto ditto, cold .......... 395 phalia ................ 76 Biscuits in cases . ..... 396 To mash Turnips or Carrots 106 Ditto à la cuillière ........ 396 Batter for frying .......... 123 394 THE FRENCH COOK. CHAP. I. SAUCES, BROTHS, AND CONSOMMES. No. 1.--First Broth. Take part of a breast or of a rump of beef, with some of the parures, or trimmings. Put the meat into a stock-pot with cold water. Set it on the fire, and watch the proper moment to skim it well. If this broth is not clear and bright, the other broths and sauces will also be spoilt. Be particular in skimming off the black scum; pour a little cold water into the above to raise up the white scum. When all the scum has been skimmed off, put in a few carrots, turnips, heads of celery, and leeks, fourlarge onions, one of which is to be stuck with cloves; then throw a handful of salt into the stock-pot, and let the whole simmer for five hours. Strain the broth through a cloth, or a double silk sieve. Lay the piece of beef in some of the broth, to keep it hot. This first broth serves to moisten all the other broths, of which the different names are as follows: No. 2.--First Consommé. MARK* in a stock-pot a large piece of buttock of beef, with a knuckle of veal, and the trimmings of meat or fowls, according to the quantity of sauce you may wish to make. This broth will admit all sorts of veal or poultry. Let the meat stew on a gentle fire. Moisten with about two large ladles-full of the first broth; put no vegetables into this broth, except a bunch of parsley and green onions. Let them sweat thoroughly ; then thrust your knife into the meat; if no blood issues, it is a sign that it is heated through. Then moisten it with boiling broth, and let it boil gently for about four hours. Use this consommé to make the sauces, or the consommés of either poultry or game. Skim off the fat and scum of all the various broths, and keep the pots full, in order that the broth be not too high in colour. When the broth remains too long on the fire, it loses its flavour, acquires too brown a colour, and tastes strong. No. 3.--Consommé of Poultry. Beer is no longer required in the consommés either of poultry or of game. Put a few slices of ham in the bottom of a stew-pan, or of any other vessel, with some slices of veal. In France, we generally take the noir and the contre noirt. Lay over the veal the loins of fowl and trimmings. Then moisten about two inches deep with first consommé, and let it sweat on a fire, so con- fined that the blaze may not colour the exterior of the * Mark is a French word, which signifies, that all the ingredients requi- site are to be put into the stock-pot. + The leg of veal is divided into three different parts, noir, sounoir, and contre noix. vessel. When the meat is heated through, (which you ascertain by thrusting your knife into it, as at page 2), cover it with the first consommé; season it with mushrooms, a bunch of parsley and green onions, and let the meat boil till it be done properly. The broths are more savoury and mellow when the meat is not overdone. Strain the con- sommé through a silk sieve, to use it when wanted. No. 4.-Consommé of Game. If you are to send up aitrées of partridges, you must have ready a consommé of partridges. Put into a stew-pan a few slices of veal, the backs, &c. of partridges to be laid over them. If you moisten with a consommé containing ham, there is no occasion to put in any more; if not, a few slices of ham will not be amiss. If your entrées are with truffles, add the parings of your truffles and a few mushrooms. When the consommé is sufficiently done, strain it through a cloth, or silk sieve, and use it when you have an opportunity. No. 5.-Consommé of Rabbits. MARK* the various consommés with the bones and trimmings of rabbits. Do the same as for a consommé of partridges; put in truffles if your entrées are to be with truffles. No. 6.-Blond of Veal, or Gravy of Veal. Put a few slices of Westmoreland ham (the lean only) into a pretty thick stew-pan. Lay over them some fleshy pieces of veal. You may use rump of veal. Pour into the * Mark means, to make each consommé with the trimmings either of game or fowls. B 2 stew-pan a sufficient quantity of first consommé to cover about half the thickness of the meat. Let it sweat on a stove, over a brisk fire. Watch the stew-pan and the con- tents, for fear of burning. When the broth is reduced, thrust a knife into the meat, that all the gravy may run out; then stew the glaze more gently. When the whole is abso- lutely à glace, of a good colour, you must let it stew till brown, but take care it does not burn, to prevent which put it on red-hot ashes. Keep stirring your stew-pan over the fire, in order that the glaze may be all of the same colour. Turn the meat upside down, that it may not stick. When your glaze is of a dark red colour, moisten with some hot broth; let the glaze detach before you put the stew-pan on the fire, for it might still burn. Season with mushrooms and a bunch of parsley and green onions. When the gravy has boiled for an hour, it is done enough, Take off the fat, and strain it through a silk sieve. No. 7.—Gravy of Beef: Trim, with layers of fat bacon, the bottom of a thick stew-pan; cut four large onions by halves, lay the flat part over the bacon; take a few slices of beef, put them in the same manner as in the gravy of veal, moisten with the first broth only. Let this sweat, in order to get all the gravy out of the beef, and when the broth is reduced, thrust a knife into the meat; let it stew gently on a slow fire, till the gravy be of a light brown*. Next moisten with some first broth, throw in a large bunch of parsley and of green onions, a little salt, and a pepper corn. Let the whole boil for one hour; take the fat off, and drain it through a silk sieve, to use it when wanted. * The browner the glaze is, the better, but care must be taken not to burn it, as it will then be bitter. i 5 No. 8.-L'Aspic. Take a handful of aromatic herbs, such as burnet, chervil, and tarragon. Boil them in white vinegar; when the vinegar is well scented, pour into your stew-pan some consommé of fowl reduced; season well before you clarify. When the aspic is highly seasoned, break the white of four eggs into an earthen pan, and beat them with an osier rod; throw the aspic into those whites of eggs, and put the whole on the fire in a stew-pan; keep beating or stirring till your jelly gets white, it is then very near boiling. Put it on the corner of the stove, with a cover over it, and a little fire on the top of it. When quite clear and bright, strain it through a bag or sieve, to be used when wanted. N.B. If you should want to use it for a mayonaise, or as a jelly in moulds, you must make sure of its being stiff enough. If it be not, add to it, either a knuckle of veal or a calf's foot; put it into a small mould in ice, for trial; when you may ascertain whether it may be used in large moulds, which, it is to be observed, require the jelly to be quite firm. You must use chiefly those parts which have tendons about them, as knuckles of veal, calves' feet, &c. No. 9.—Jelée of Meat, for Pies. · The jelée of meat for pies is not to be prepared in the same manner as the aspic. Neither aromatic herbs nor vinegar are to be used. The jelée is to be made as follows: Put into a stew-pan a good piece of beef, two calves' feet, a knuckle of veal, remnants of fowl, or game, according to the contents of your pies, two onions stuck with cloves, two carrots, four shalots, a bunch of parsley and green onions, some thyme, bay-leaves, spices, &c. and a small piece of ham. Sweat the whole over a very slow fire, then moisten with some good broth, let the stew-pan be covered close, and those ingredients stew for four hours, but very gently. When done, taste it, season it well, and clarify it as you do the aspic. In order that it may keep the better, put it into ice. No. 10.—Le Suage, or l’Empotage*. Markt in a marmite twenty pounds of beef, a knuckle of veal, a hen, and if you have any remnants of fowl or of veal, you may put them in likewise. Moisten this stock- pot with two large ladles full of broth. Sweat it over a large fire. Let it boil to glaze without its getting too high in colour. Next fill it up with some first broth that is quite hot. Put some vegetables into this pot, which is intended for making soup only. But you must put very few into the consommés which are to be reduced, and would have a bitter taste if they were to retain that of the roots, and accordingly not be fit to be used in delicate cookery. L'empotage requires no more than five hours to be done; strain it through a silk sieve, and use it when you have occasion for it. No. 11.-Clarified Consommé Is to be clarified as specified for the aspic, and jelée of meat. You must not forget, that such articles as are to be clarified, require to be more highly seasoned than others, as the clarifying takes away some of the flavour. No. 12.-Clarified Gravy. Gravy of veal, or beef, is to be clarified with whites of eggs. The gravy of veal is best suited for the table of * Remark, that this broth is to be made for a very large dinner only. + Mark, must be understood as an abbreviation for putting in all the requisite articles. the great. The gravy of beef may do for private families of the middle class. No. 13.-- Le Bouillon de Santé. MARK or put into an earthen pot * or stock-pot, six pounds of beef, one half of a hen, and a knuckle of veal. Moisten with cold water. Let it boil so that the scum rises only by degrees; skim it well, that it may be quite clear and limpid. When skimmed, throw into it two carrots, two leeks, a head of celery, two onions stuck with three cloves, and three turnips. Let the whole simmer gently for four hours. Then put a little salt to it, and skim off the grease or fat before you use it. No. 14.- White Roux +. Put a good lump of butter into a stew-pan, let it melt over a slow fire; when melted, powder it over with flour, enough to make a thin paste; keep it on the fire for a quarter of an hour, fry it white ; pour it into an earthen pan to use it when wanted. No. 15.-Brown Rour. Put into a stew-pan a piece of butter proportionate to the quantity of roux you want to prepare. Melt it gently; then put flour enough to make a paste; you must fry it on a brisk fire, and then put it again over a very slow fire, till it be of a nice colour; but mind this is to be obtained only by slow degrees. When of a light brown, you pour it into an earthen pan, and keep it for use. It keeps a long while. * In France these broths are generally made in an earthen pot, but such pots cannot be found in England. + We are unable to find an equivalent in English for the French term roux. It is an indispensable article in cookery, it serves to thicken sauces; the brown is for sauces of the same colour; and the colour must be obtained by slow degrees, otherwise the flour will burn and give a bitter taste. No. 16.--The Coulis. Make the coulis in the same manner as the gravy of veal, with slices of ham, and slices of veal, &c. When the glaze is of a nice colour, moisten it, and let it stew entirely. You must season it with a bunch of parsley and green onions, mushrooms, &c. Then mix some brown roux with the gravy of veal, but do not make it too thick, as you could not get the fat out of your sauce, and a sauce with fat neither has a pleasing appearance nor a good flavour. Let it stew for an hour on the corner of the stove, skim off the fat, and strain it through a tammy, &c. No. 17.-Grande Espagnole. BESIDES some slices of ham, put into a stew-pan some slices of veal.' Moisten the same as for the coulis; sweat them in the like manner; let all the glaze go to the bottom, and when of a nice red colour, moisten with a few spoon- fuls of first consommé, to detach the glaze: then pour in the coulis. Let the whole boil for half an hour, that you may be enabled to remove all the fat. Strain it through a clean tammy. Remember always to put into your sauces some mushrooms, with a bunch of parsley and green onions. It is time to observe to the professors of cookery, that the flavour comes from the seasoning : if you neglect to put into your dish the necessary articles to a nicety, the flavour will be deficient. Mind that the sauce or broth, when kept too long on the fire, loses the proper taste, and takes in- stead of it, a strong and disagreeable one. No. 18.-Espagnole of Game. The same operation as above, except that in this you introduce the loins and trimmings of either young or old partridges, in order that this sauce may taste of game. Put them to sweat. Remember that such sauces, if kept too long on the fire, lose their savour, and fumet of the game. No. 19.-Sauce tournée. Take some white roux, dilute it with some consommé of fowl; neither too thin nor too thick. I must repeat what I have already said, a sauce when too thick will never ad- mit of the fat being removed. Let it boil on the corner of the stove. Throw in a few mushrooms, with a bunch of parsley and green onions. Skim it well, and when there is no grease left, strain it through a tammy, to use it when wanted. No. 20.--Sauce à l'Allemande. This is merely a sauce tournée as above reduced, into which is introduced a thickening * well seasoned. This sauce is always used for the following sauces or ragouts, viz. blanquette of all descriptions, of veal, of fowl, of game, or palates, ragout à-la-toulouse, loin of veal à-la-béchamel, white financière, &c. &c. No.21.—The Velouté. Take much about the same quantity of consommé and of sauce tournée, and reduce them over a large fire. When this sauce is very thick, you should have some thick cream boiling and reduced, which you pour into the sauce, and give it a couple of boilings; season with a little salt, and strain through a tammy. If the ham should be too salt, put in a little sugar. Observe, that this sauce is not to be so thick as the béchamel. * Thickening, is what is called in French, liaison; the yolk of two or four eggs. 10 No. 22.-White Italian Sauce. After having turned some mushrooms, throw them into a little water and lemon-juice to keep them white. Formerly it was customary to use oil for these sauces, as on account of its being much lighter, it would rise always to the top, whereas in thick sauces butter does not. Put into a stew-pan two-thirds of sauce tournée, and one-third of consommé; and two spoonfuls of mushrooms chopped very fine, and especially of a white colour, half a spoon- ful of shalots likewise chopped, and well washed in the corner of a clean towel. Reduce this sauce, season it well, and send it up. No. 23.--Brown Italian Sauce. It is requisite in a kitchen to have what is commonly called an assiette, which is a dish with four partitions, in- tended for the reception of fine herbs. You must always have ready some parsley chopped very fine, some shalots the same ; if the mushrooms were chopped beforehand they would become black; therefore only chop them when you have occasion for them; the fourth partition is intended for the reception of bunches of parsley and green onions. The chopping and mincing of the above is the business of the apprentice, if there be one under the head cook; if not, of the junior kitchen-maid. Take two spoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, one spoon- ful of shalots, one ditto of parsley.* Throw the whole into a stew-pan with two-thirds of Espagnole sauce, and one-third of consommé. Some people add white wine to the sauce. In France, where there is a choice of light white wines, it might be done easily, but in England, where Champaign is * This sance will have a better taste, if you fry the finer herbs in a little butter, and moisten them after with the Espagnole, and consommé. the only wine that can be used, it would be too dear; be- sides, the sauce may be made very good without any wine whatever, if you know how to work it well, to its proper degree, with a little salt, and still less pepper. Brown sauces are not to be made thick. When the sauce is done enough, you must shift it into another stew-pan, and put it au bain marie. If you were not to skim this sauce with particular care, you might skim off all the parsley, which must remain in it. No. 24.- The Sauce Hachée. This sauce, although seldom if ever used in good cookery, is frequently to be met with at taverns and inns on the road. Such as it is, it is to be made in the following way. Chop some girkins, mushrooms, capers, and ancho- vies, which throw into a brown Italienne, and that is what is called a sauce hachée. Why have I called this a tavern or common inn sauce ? Because it is not requisite to have an Italienne well prepared. A common browning made with butter and flour, moistened with a little broth, or gravy, and some fine herbs in it, will answer the purpose of those who know no better. No. 25.-White sharp Sauce. Pour into a stew-pan four spoonfuls of white vinegar, to which add some tarragon (if you have no tarragon, use tarragon vinegar), and about twenty pepper-corns; reduce the vinegar to one-fourth of its original quantity ; pour into the stew-pan six spoonfuls of sauce tournée, and two spoon- fuls of consommé; then reduce this sauce over a large fire. Strain it through a tammy, and then put it again on the fire. When it boils, thicken it with the yolk of two eggs, work it with a small bit of butter. In case it should hap- 12 pen to be brown, pour a spoonful of cream into it, to re- store the white colour, and put a little cayenne and salt. No. 26.—The Brown sharp Sauce. In a small stew-pan, put a small bit of butter, a small carrot cut into dice, a few shalots the same, some parsley roots, some parsley, a few slices of ham, a clove, a little thyme, the half of a bay-leaf, a few grains of pepper-corn and allspice, with a little mace. Let the stew-pan now be put on a slow fire, till it begins to be of a fine brown all round; then keep stirring with a wooden spoon ; pour into the stew-pan four spoonfuls of white vinegar, and a small bit of sugar. Let this reduce nearly à glace. Then moisten with some Espagnole and a little consommé, that you may be enabled to take the fat off from the sauce; season with cayenne and a little salt. Taste whether there be salt enough, but mind, it is not to be too acid ; skim off the fat, and strain the sauce through a tammy, and serve up. No. 27.-The Aspic Lié. Put into a stew-pan such herbs as are called ravigottes, namely, burnet, chervil, and tarragon. Add two or three spoonfuls of white vinegar, and let the herbs infuse on a slow fire for half an hour. Then moisten with eight spoon- fuls of Espagnole: let the whole stew for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour. Season it well, and strain it through a tammy, to use when wanted. - - - No. 28.— White Ravigotte. The same as above, except that, instead of Espagnole, · you use sauce tournée. Let it boil for half an hour, then strain this sauce through a tammy. Have the same herbs as above, chopped very fine, blanch them in a little salted water, lay them in a sieve to drain, and pour the ravigotte 13 into the sauce. Work it with a small lump of butter, sea- son with salt and pepper, and send up. Never omit to taste the sauce, for occasionally, according to the palate of the host, some ingredients may be wanting, others too plentiful, which may be easily remedied; when too salt, a small bit of sugar corrects the briny taste. No. 29.--The Maître d'Hôtel. Take four spoonfuls of Allemande ; work this sauce over a stove with a small lump of fresh butter. Take some parsley chopped very fine, throw it into the sauce with a little salt and pepper, and the juice of a lemon. Let this sauce be thick, if intended to mask* any entrée whatever. At any rate it is easy to thin a sauce ; but if too thin, it is a hard matter to thicken it, except with a lump of butter and flour, yet, let it be ever so well managed, it is but a sad contrivance. No. 30.- Maître d'Hôtel maigre. Is nothing more than plain butter sauce with a little chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and lemon-juice. If sha- lots are acceptable, a few may be added, the same as to the maître d'hôtel above. . No. 31.--Tarragon Sauce, or Pluche. See No. 25, White sharp Sauce. Blanch some tarragon, either in fillets, squares, or any other shape you may think proper, and put it into the sauce. It is then called Tarra- gon Sauce. In other pluches, tarragon must always pre- vail. You may make pluches of parsley, chervil, &c. with the sauce called white sharp sauce. * Mask, means to cover over with the sauce. 14: No. 32.—The Bourguignotte.. Cut some truffles into balls of the size of a nutmeg : take some small round mushrooms, and put about twenty of each into a small stew-pan : pour over them a pint of red wine, with a small lump of sugar. Let the wine be reduced to a glaze. Then throw into the stew-pan six spoonfuls of Espagnole, and two of consommé. Let the whole boil for half an hour, taste it, and if well seasoned, serve it up. No. 33.—The bon Beurre. Take some Allemande, (Vide No. 20) rather thick, into which put a bit of butter. Work the sauce well, season it, and serve up. No. 34.—The Béchamel. Take about half a quarter of a pound of butter, about three pounds of veal, cut into small slices, a quarter of a pound of ham, some trimmings of mushrooms, two small white onions, a bunch of parsley and green onions; put · the whole into a stew-pan, and lay it on the fire till the meat be made firm. Then put three spoonfuls of four; moisten with some boiling hot thin cream. Keep this sauce rather thin, so that whilst you reduce it, the ingre- dients may have time to be stewed thoroughly. Season it with a little salt, and strain it through a tammy, when it retains no taste of flour, and the sauce is very palatable. No. 35.—The Béchamel maigre* Is prepared as above, with the exception of the meat, which is to be omitted. If you have made any sauces * This sauce is only for those who practise the Roman Catholic religion. 15 from fish, put a little of the juice or gravy of the fish with the cream. When done, strain it through a tammy, and · serve up. No. 36.—The Genoese Sauce. This sauce is made by stewing fish, yet it is natural enough that it should find its place among the other sauces. Make some marinade of various roots, such as carrots, roots of parsley, onions, and a few mushrooms, with a bay- leaf, some thyme, a blade of mace, a few cloves, and some spices; fry the whole white in some butter. Pour in some Madeira or other white wine, and let the vegetables stew. When done enough, use it to stew your fish in, and take some of the liquor to make the sauce. Then take a little brown roux and mix it with some of the marinade, to which add too or three spoonfuls of gravy of veal. Now let these stew gently on the corner of the stove ; skim off all the grease, and season well. Then put to it two spoonfuls of essence of anchovies, and a quarter of a pound of but- ter kneaded with flour, and throw them into the sauce. When this is done, squeeze into it the juice of a lemon, and cover the fish with the sauce, which must accord- ingly be made thick and mellow. No. 37.-Sauce à Matelotte for Fish. Melt some brown roux, into which throw a few onions cut into slices: keep it stirring over the fire till the onions be dissolved in the roux. Then moisten with the wine in which your fish has been stewed, and which, by the by, must be red wine. Add some parures, or trimmings of mushrooms, with a bunch of parsley and green onions, well seasoned with spices; bay-leaves, thyme, sweet basil, cloves, allspices, &c. Let the flour be well done. Re- member to throw in a few spoonfuls of gravy of veal. Now 17 been continually boiling for an hour, rub it through a tammy. If it should happen to be too thick, dilute it with a little consommé or Espagnole. If too acid, put in a little glaze and sugar. You must always put some cabbage- lettuce with the sorrel, to correct its acidity. When you · make purée of sorrel, if you have no sauce to put to it, put a spoonful of flour, and dilute with gravy of veal, and proceed then as before. No. 41.-Sorrel en maigre. Pick your sorrel, let it melt, drain it, and lay it on the table, as above. Mind that the table be very clean. Then chop the sorrel for a long time and very fine, fry it gently in a stew-pan with a little butter. When it has been kept for about half an hour on a slow fire, throw in a spoonful of flour; moisten with boiling hot cream, and let it stew on a slow fire for an hour. Then season it with a little salt. If your sorrel should be too acid, put a little sugar to it. Then thicken it with the yolks of four eggs, and serve up. If you should prefer making a Béarnoise, you make a kind of pap with flour and cream or milk, and let it boil. When the sorrel is done enough, pour the Béarnoise into it, and let it boil ten minutes, then put the yolks of four. eggs immediately after to thicken it. In this manner the sorrel will never curdle, whereas if you follow the other method, it most frequently will. If it be with broth that you wish to prepare your sorrel, instead of cream or milk, you mix some with it, and use the yolks of eggs in the like manner, and that is what we call farce*. No. 42. -Purée of Céleri. Cut the whitest part of several heads of celery, which blanch in water, to take off the bitter taste. Let it cool, * A dish much used by the Roman Catholics ; Eggs à la farce. 18 and drain all the water off. Then put it into a stew-pan with a little consommé and sugar. Let it stew for an hour and a half, and be reduced till there be no kind of mois- ture. Then mix it with four spoonfuls of béchamel or velouté, strain the whole through a tammy, and put it au bain marie *. When ready to send up, refine the sauce with a little thick cream, to make it white. No. 43.-Purée of Onion, or Soubise. Take a dozen of white onions. After having peeled and washed then, cut them in halves, take off the tops and bottoms, mince them as fine as possible, and blanch them to make them taste sweeter. Then set them melting on a small stove, with a little butter. When they are thoroughly done, and no kind of moisture left, mix four spoonfuls of béchamel. Season them well, rub the purée through a tammy, and keep this sauce hot, but without boiling. You must also put a small lump of sugar with the sauce if necessary. No. 44.—Purée of Onion, Brown, and Lyonaise. Peel and wash twelve onions clean, then mince them, and fry them in a stew-pan with a little butter, till brown. * Bain marie is a flat vessel containing boiling water; you put all your stew-pans into the water, and keep that water always very hot, but it must not boil. The effect of this bain marie, is to keep every thing warm, without altering either the quantity or the quality, particularly the quality. When I had the honour of serving a nobleman in this country, who kept a very extensive hunting establishment, and the hour of dinner was conse- quently uncertain, I was in the habit of using bain marie, as a certain means of preserving the flavour of all my dishes. If you keep your sauce, or broth, or soup, by the fire-side, the soup reduces and becomes too strong, and the sauce thickens as well as reduces. It is necessary to observe, that this is the best manner of warming turtle- soup, as the thick part is always at the bottom of the stew-pan; this method prevents it from burning, and keeps it always good. 19 Then moisten with some Espagnole, if you have any ; if not, singez* with two spoonfuls of flour, mixed with some gravy of veal. Now scum the fat, and season well with salt. Then strain the purée through an old tammy, for these sort of purées would destroy new ones For the Lyonaise make a purée of onions likewise, but then keep the sauce a little more liquid. Take some very small white onions, cut them into rings, and fry them till they be of a light brown, then lay them on a clean towel to drain, and throw them into the sauce. Give them one single boiling, that the fat, getting at the top, may easily be skimmed off; and serve up. No. 45.—Purée of White Beans New white beans are the best suited for making a purée. Put them into boiling water if they be fresh, and in cold water if they be dry, with a little butter in either case, which makes the skin more mellow. When they are done, throw in a handful of salt, to give them a seasoning. Fry a few slices of onion in a little butter; when they are of a nice brown colour, singez them with half a spoonful of flour; moisten with gravy of veal, and season with a little salt and pepper, and skim off the grease.' When the flour is done, mix it well with the beans, let them boil fifteen minutes, squeeze them well before you rub them through the tammy. Let your purée be rather liquid, as it gets thick when on the fire. A short time before it is sent up, mix with your beans a small bit of butter, and then serve up. The purée en maigre is prepared in the same manner; but instead of sauce grasse, you use jus maigre, or milk, If you wish to make it white, you must sweat the onions gently and slowly, that they may not get brown. * Singem, is putting some flour into the stew-pan. c2 20 No. 46.-Purée of Mushrooms, White and Brown. If you wish to make a white purée of mushrooms, you must then turn the mushrooms white in a little water and lemon-juice: chop them; then put them into a stew-pan, with a very small bit of butter. When the mushrooms are what we call melted, moisten them with four or six spoon- fuls of velouté. Do not let them boil long, for fear they should lose their taste and colour. Then rub them through a tammy. It is no easy matter, indeed, with regard to mushrooms, yet this sauce is called purée of mushrooms. It is almost useless to observe, that for the brown purée, it is enough to moisten with some Espagnole only. If you were to fry the mushrooms brown, they then would turn black, and make the sauce of the like colour. Skim your sauce. Put a little sugar into both. All such sauces as are called purée, must be made thicker than others. · No. 47.-Purée of Green Peas, new and dry. The purée of green peas for an entrée, is prepared in the same manner as that described for potage or soup. You must only keep it thicker, and richer, which is done by mixing a little glaze with it. But if you were to put too much, the purée then would no longer retain its green colour; neither must you let it boil, for it will lose its green colour. The purée of dry peas is made as follows. Stew the peas with a large piece of bacon, the breast part, a few carrots and onions, a bunch of parsley and green onions, a little thyme, and bay-leaves, and some cold water. Let them boil four hours. When quite done, pound them in a mortar, and then rub them through a tammy, with the liquor they have been boiling in. Let it be properly 21 seasoned, and a short time before you send up, pour in a verd de persil, or verd d'épinards, to make it green. No. 48.-Purée of Chesnuts. TAKE some fine new chesnuts; slit the peel with your knife, and put a little butter into a frying-pan. Fry the chesnuts till the peel comes off, then boil them in a little consommé and sugar. When done, add four or six spoon- fuls of Espagnole, and rub the whole through a tammy. Keep this sauce rather liquid, as it is liable to get thick. No. 49.-Les Nouilles. Nouilles are nothing but a French paste, which the cooks prepare themselves. Lay flat on your table, or dresser, half a dozen spoonfuls of flour; make a hole in the middle, and put in a small pinch of salt, a little water to melt the salt, the yolks of three eggs, a lump of butter of the size of a walnut; mix the whole well, flatten the paste with a roller, about one line thick, cut it into slices of about an inch broad, and next cut your nouilles nearly as thick. Blanch them in boiling water to take off the flour that sticks around, and when they are blanched, drain them and let them cool, that they may not stick together. Put them to boil in some good consommé. When done enough, drain them, and put them into whatever sauce you may fancy, either a blanquette, an Allemande, or a velouté. If they are to be served with a fowl, use velouté ; and Parme- san cheese, if served for an entremêt. But if for soup, serve them in the broth in which they were boiled. This soup is very good with Parmesan cheese; have the cheese scraped, and serve it separately in a plate. No. 50.—The Macédoine. This sauce can never be good but in the spring season, as green peas, asparagus, French beans, and artichoke- 22 bottoms, are indispensably requisite, besides carrots, turnips, heads of celery, and small cauliflower sprouts. As it is very difficult to procure those various vegetables and roots at the same time of the year, you must contrive to do your best, and put as many as you can procure. Cut some carrots in the shape either of olives, of balls, or small thin corks. Blanch them in a little water, then set them to stew with a little sugar and a few spoonfuls of consommé, over a large fire, that they may glaze without breaking. Stew the turnips in the like manner, but sepa- rately. Mind that the glaze of your roots be not made too high in colour. The other vegetables are to be boiled in salt and water. Lay them on a clean towel to drain; mix them with the carrots and turnips, and three spoonfuls of béchamel. Toss them gently, not to destroy the shape of the ingredients. If you are short of other vegetables, you may use cucumbers and mushrooms; be cautious however in using them, as they would make the sauce too thin, if you did not pay particular attention. No.51.-Sauce d'Attelets.* Take a spoonful of fine herbs, such as mushrooms, parsley, shalots, and a little butter, which fry slightly in a stew-pan. When the herbs begin to fry, without how- ever being too dry, singez with a little flour, and moisten with broth or consommé. Reduce over a large fire, with- out skimming off the fat. Season with pepper and salt. When the sauce begins to thicken, take it off the fire. Then throw in the yolks of two or three eggs, well beaten : keep stirring, and pour the sauce over whatever it may be intended for. * This sauce is generally used to stick the crumbs of bread round what- ever you may wish to put in crumb, instead of butter. It is made use of for attelets of palates of beef, sweetbreads, fillets of rabbits, &c. &c. 23 No. 52.-Sauce for Sturgeon: We call sauce d’esturgeon a marinade, that which has served either to baste the sturgeon whilst roasting, or serves as a sauce when baked. Take part of this marinade, which reduce with some other sauces either brown or white, and when it begins to get thick, put in a good lump of butter kneaded with flour, a little glaze, some essence of anchovies, and the juice of a lemon. Mind, do not put too much salt, as a very little is required when you use an- chovies. Besides, you are always at liberty to add salt if required. No. 53.- Red Sauce Cardinal. Reduce some sauce tournée with a few spoonfuls of consommé of fowls. When the sauce is sufficiently done, take a butter of craw-fish*, which throw in. Work it well, with a small lump of fresh butter, to prevent the other butter from turning to oil. Give it a good seasoning, and add to it the juice of a lemon. No. 54.- Lobster Sauce. A hen lobster is indispensable for this sauce. Put some of the spawn of the fish into a mortar, to be pounded very fine; add to it a small bit of butter. When very fine, rub it through a hair sieve, and cover it till wanted. Break the lobster with great care, cut all the flesh into dice, but not too small; dilute some of the red spawn in some melted butter, two spoonfuls of essence of anchovies, a little salt and Cayenne pepper, two spoonfuls of double cream, and mix it all well before the meat is put to it, as the meat must * Butter of craw-fish:-In England they use the spawn of lobster in- stead : it should be well pounded. . 24 It retain its dice-like form. Do not let this sauce boil. must be very red. No. 55.-Sauce à la Lucullus. . le LUCULLUS was one of the most renowned epicures of ancient Rome; it is very natural of course to assign the name of a man who has brought the art of cookery into so high a repute, to a sauce which requires so much pains, attention, and science for its production, and which can only be sent up to the table of a wealthy and true con- noisseur. After having worked the fillets, as indicated at the entreés, you have the legs and loins left to make the sauce, which is to be proceeded in as follows. Put into a small stew-pan a few slices of ham, about one pound or two of veal, and the legs and rump of a partridge on the top of the former, moisten with about a wine-glass of good con- sommé, put the whole on a slow fire, in order to sweat it through; thrust your knife into the partridge, if no blood comes, moisten with boiling consommé, enough to cover the meat; season with a bundle of parsley and green onions, a few blades of mace, one clove, a little thyme, half a bay- leaf, four or five allspice, the trimmings of truffles and mushrooms ; let your consommé boil till the partridge is well done, then strain through a silk sieve; reduce the consommé to a very light glaze. Then take a sufficient quantity of velouté, and mix a spoonful of glaze of game with it; but as this glaze would make the sauce of a brown colour, you must have a few spoonfuls of thick cream to mix with it. You must have for your sauté, some truffles cut into the size of a penny. Put them separately into clarified butter with a little salt. When you are going to send up the dinner, sautez or fry gently the truffles, and when done drain the butter off: put them separately into a small stew-pan with a little essence 25 of game and truffles. As you are to mask those parts only which are not decorated, take up the fillets and dip them into the sauce, but no deeper than the part which you have glazed slightly, in order to render the truffles blacker. When you have dished a large fillet and a small one alter- nately, you mask the filets mignons with the remainder of the sauce, and put in the middle the truffles, cut to the size of a penny, which have been lying in a sauce like that which has been used for the fillets *. No.56.- Velouté, a new Method. As it is not customary in England, as it is in France, to allow a principal cook six assistants or deputies, for half a dozen or even ten entrées, I have thought it incumbent on me to abridge, to the best of my abilities, the various pre- parations of sauces, &c. Put into a stew-pan, a knuckle of veal, some slices of ham, four or five pounds of beef, the legs and loin of a fowl, and all the trimmings of meat or game that you have, and moisten with boiled water, suffi- cient to cover half the meat; make it sweat gently on a slow fire, till the meat is done through; this you can as- certain by thrusting your knife into it; if no blood flows, it is then time to moisten with boiled water, enough to cover all the meat; then season with a bundle of parsley and green onions, a clove, half a bay-leaf, some thyme, a little salt, and some trimmings of mushrooms. When the sauce has boiled long enough to let the knuckle be well done, skim off all the fat, strain it through a silk sieve, and reducet this consommé till it is nearly a glaze; next take four spoonfuls of very fine flour, dilute it with three pints of very good cream, in a stew-pan big enough to contain * When this sauce is made with great care, it is certainly the ne plus ultra of the art. + Reduce, means to boil down till reduced. 26 the cream, consommé, flour, &c.; boil the Hour and cream on a slow fire. When it boils, pour to it the consommé, and continue to boil it on a slow fire if the sauce be thick, but on a quick fire if the sauce be thin, in order to thicken it. Season with salt, but put no pepper. No white sauce ad- mits pepper, except when you introduce into it something chopped fine, pepper appearing like dust should therefore be avoided ; this sauce should be very thick. Put it into a white bason through a tammy, and keep it in the larder out of the dust. This sauce is the fundamental stone, if I may use the expression, of all sorts of little sauces; especially in Eng- land, where white sauces are preferred. On this account I have relinquished the former method. In summer time I was unable to procure any butter fit for use. I accordingly was forced to do without, and discovered that my sauce was the better for it. You must always keep this sauce very thick, as you may thin it whenever you please, either with consommé, or with cream. If it were too thin, it could not be used for so many purposes. No. 57.-Common Rémoulade, and Green Rémoulade. Take two or four eggs, boil them hard, then pound the yolks in a mortar, add a spoonful of mustard, pepper and salt, three spoonfuls of oil, one spoonful of vinegar, and break the yolk of a raw egg into it, to prevent the rémou- lade from curdling; rub it through a hair sieve, and serve it up.. The rémoulade verte is the same as the other, only you have a ravigotte, composed of chervil, burnet, tarragon, and parsley Pound all these, and rub the remoulade and ravigotte, in the state of a purée, through a tammy. Throw a little verd de persil into the remoulade, to make it look quite green. Add likewise a little Cayenne pepper. If 27 approved of, you may put a few chopped shalots. Should you want more sauce, double the quantity of your ingre- dients. No.58.-Mayonnaise. TAKE three spoonfuls of Allemande, six of aspic, and two of oil. Add a little tarragon vinegar that has not boiled, some pepper and salt, and chopped ravigotte, or some chopped parsley only. Then put in the members of fowl, or fillets of soles, &c. The mayonnaise must be put into ice; but the members must not be put into the sauce till it begins to freeze. Dish up the meat or fish, cover it with the sauce before it be quite frozen, and garnish the dish with whatever you think proper, as beet-root, jelly, nas- turtiums, &c. : nas- . No. 59.-Egg Sauce. Chop two hard eggs, and throw them into melted but- ter, and serve up. No. 60.-Verd d'Epinards, or Green Extract of Spinach. Pick and wash two large handfuls of spinach; pound them in a mortar to extract all the juice. Then squeeze the spinach through a tammy, and pour your juice into a small stew-pan, which put au bain marie*, that it may not boil. Watch it close, as soon as it is poached lay it in a silk sieve to drain, and when all the water is drained, use the verd, to green whatever may be required. No. 61.-Verd de Persil. The same operation as above. Parsley is a necessary ingredient in many sauces, it gives them an agreeable flavour. The verd d'épinards is without savour, so that it * See Bain marie, page 18. 28 may be used for entremets; but the verd de persil is intend- ed for entrées and sauces. No. 62.-Sauce à la Pompadour. Fry or sweat white a few chopped mushrooms and sha- lots in a little butter. When well melted add to them six spoonfuls of sauce tournée, and two spoonfuls of consommé. Stew them for three quarters of an hour on the corner of the stove, and skim off the fat: you must keep your sauce rather thin; then throw in a thickening made of the yolks of three eggs. Moisten with a spoonful or two of cream; add a little pepper and salt; work your sauce well. When it is done, have a little parsley chopped very fine, blanch it, drain it, and let it cool, that it may look quite green ; mix it with the sauce, and serve up. A little lemon-juice may not be amiss, but be aware that acids will always alter the taste of good sauces to their disadvantage, except when highly seasoned. No. 63.-La Dusselle. This sauce is only used for panures* and broilings. Put a little butter into a stew-pan with an equal quantity of rasped bacon, together with some fine herbs, parsley, sha- lots, mushrooms, pepper and salt, and stew them on a slow fire. When the fine herbs are done, beat the yolks of four eggs, moisten with the juice of a lemon, and pour that thickening into the dusselle. Mind your fine herbs must not be too much done, for in that case the eggs would not thicken the sauce. The dusselle is generally used for cote- lettes à la Maintenon, sweetbreads, and fat liver caisses, &c. &c. * I call panures, every thing that has crumbs of bread over it. 29 No. 64.-Les Pointes d’Asperges. Pick some nice asparagus, not however of the finest, but all of an equal size. Cut off the tops only, about an inch long, and blanch them in water with a little salt, but do not boil them too much. Then put them with whatever you choose, but only at the last moment, and that for two different reasons; the first, because they are liable to turn yellow; the other, because they would give a bitter taste to the sauce. If you wish to serve any thing up with asparagus tops, you must put them into a little velouté, or Allemande. They do not look well in a brown sauce. For this reason they are seen in Macédoines, Chartreuses, pâtés de legumes, vol au vents, &c. If intended for soups, never put them in but at the moment you send up. No. 65.-L'Haricot brun. Cut some turnips into the shape of heads of garlic, wash them clean, and stew them with a nice Espagnole, without frying them in butter, as many persons do. If your sauce be of a fine brown colour, the turnips will acquire the same. Add a little sugar. With regard to salt, it is needless to say that not a single dish, or sauce, can be prepared with- out it. When you have no Espagnole sauce, take the trimmings of the chops of which you intend to make your haricot, and put them into a stew-pan with carrots, turnips, an onion, a little thyme, and a bay-leaf; moisten with a ladle of broth, let it all sweat till the broth is reduced to a glaze of a good colour; then moisten with some boiling water; season with a bunch of parsley and green onions! let it boil for an hour, and strain it through a sieve. Fry the turnips of a good colour, dust them with a spoonful of flour, and moisten with the liquor; skim off all the fat, and cover the chops with the sauce. . 30 No. 66.-L'Haricot vierge. Cut small turnips into the shape either of corks, or olives, or into any other shape according to your fancy. Blanch them with one single boil in water; drain them; next stew them with a little sugar, and two spoonfuls of good consommé. Mind they must stew over a large fire, that they may be reduced speedily, for otherwise they would be too much done. When they are à glace, or re- duced, take them off the fire. Pour in three or four spoon- fuls of velouté, according to the new method. If the sauce be too thick, put to it a spoonful of thick cream; do not forget a little salt. This sauce must always be white, and is generally required with glazed articles, which have a sufficient degree of substance. No. 67.-Hollandoise verte, or Green Dutch Sauce. TAKE a couple, or four spoonfuls of sauce tournée, re- duced with a little consommé. Give a good seasoning to it; add a verd de persil, and work the sauce well. When you send up (and not before), add a little lemon-juice, for otherwise the sauce would turn yellow. No. 68.-Dutch Sauce. Put into a stew-pan a tea-spoonful of flour, four spoon- fuls of elder vinegar, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, the yolks of five eggs, and a little salt. Put it on the fire, and keep continually stirring it. When it has ac- quired thickness enough, work it well, that you may refine it. If it should not be curdled, you have no occasion to strain it through a tammy; season well, and serve up. 31 No. 69.-Sauce Blanche, or French melted Butter. Put into a stew-pan a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a spoonful of flour, a little salt, half a gill or glass of water, half a spoonful of white vinegar, and a little grated nut- meg. Put it on the fire ; let it thicken, but do not allow it to boil, for fear it should taste of the flour. Serve up. · Melted Butter. English manner.-Put into a stew-pan a little flour, a small quantity of water, and a little butter : when the butter is melted, and the sauce quite thick, with- out having boiled, serve up. No. 70.-Ragoût à la Financière. You must procure cock's combs, cock's kidneys, fat livers, and a few fowls' eggs. The combs are to be scalded in the following manner. Put the whole of them into a towel, with a handful of salt that has not been pounded. Then lay hold of the four corners of the towel, and dip the part containing the cock's comb into boiling hot water. Leave it in for a minute, and then take it out, and rub the whole well together, to take off the first skin that is about the combs, and open your towel; if the combs be not skinned sufficiently, dip them into the boiling water a second time; but mind they do not get too firm, because that prevents them from whitening. When they are well skinned, or scalded, pare the little black points, that the blood may be extracted. Next put them into a pint of water, and lay them on the corner of your stove for two hours; in which there must be but a very little fire. Then blanch them, and put them into a little blanc, by which is meant butter, salt, water, and a slice of lemon. Try them frequently, lest they be too much done. The kidneys are not to boil, for then 32 they would break. The eggs are to boil a little, in order that the first skin may come off. This being done, throw the whole into the blanc. As soon as the combs are done, have ready a nice Espagnole reduced, with large mushrooms turned, and some small quenelles, which have been poached separately. Mix together, and drain the ragoût, the combs, the kidneys, and the eggs. Put the whole into the sauce with the quenelles; stir gently, not to break the latter; season well, and use it as occasion may require. No. 71.-La Godard. This is the same ragoût as the financière, only it serves to garnish a surloin of beef. You then add pigeons gautiers, and larded sweetbreads; keep your sauce thin, as you have nothing to mask.* No. 72.- La Chambord. This is a ragoût like the financière, with this difference, that you must first reduce a pint of Madeira wine, and mix it with the Espagnole. Add to the above garnish, soft roes of carp, some good-sized craw-fish, and two spoonfuls of essence of anchovies. The quenelles are to be poached in a spoon. This, to be performed properly, requires two spoons: fill one with the farce, which has been levelled all round, with a knife dipped into boiling water. With the other spoon, which is lying also in boiling hot water, take the quenelle out, and put it into a buttered stew-pan. When you have thus marked your quenelles, pour some boiling water into the stew-pan, and boil them for a quar- ter of an hour. A small quantity of salt is required in the water. Some people poach the quenelles in broth. In my opinion it is wasting the broth to no purpose. * Mask signifies to cover ; when you do not mean to mask, the sauce must be thinner. 33 No. 73.-Salmi Sauce à l'Espagnole. Cut four shalots, and a carrot into large dice, some pars- ley-roots, a few bits of ham, a clove, two or three leaves of mace, the quarter of a bay-leaf, a little thyme, and a small bit of butter. Put the whole into a stew-pan over a gentle fire; let it fry till you perceive the stew-pan is coloured all round. Then moisten with half a pint of Madeira wine, and a very small lump of sugar. Let it reduce to one half. Put in six spoonfuls of Espagnole and the trimmings of your partridges. Let them stew for an hour on the cor- ner of the stove. Skim the fat off, taste whether your sauce be seasoned enough; strain it over the members, make it hot without boiling ; dish the salmi, and reduce the sauce, which strain through a tammy. Then cover the salmi with the sauce. No. 74.-Butter of Crawfish. Pound the shells and lesser claws, &c. in a mortar with a good lump of fresh butter, till made into a paste. Put this into a small stew-pan au bain marie. When it is quite hot, strain it through a tammy over a tureen, or earthen pan, containing cold water. The butter will rise on the surface. Take it when entirely cold, and use it as occasion may require. No. 75.--Butter of Anchovies. To make this butter you must have young anchovies Take them out of the pickle and wash them well. Take off the bones and head ; then pound them in a mortar with fresh butter, till very fine; rub this through a hair sieve. 34 No. 76.-Glaze. Glaze is very seldom made on purpose, except on par- ticular occasions. Lay on the fire a stock-pot, with plenty of veal, and a small quantity of beef and ham; moisten with broth; when stewed for a proper time skim it well. The glaze of sweated broth is not so bright. Season the broth with carrots and onions, a large bunch of parsley, and green onions; but no turnips nor celery, for they give a bitter taste. If you should have a grand dinner, and wish to glaze of a nice colour, put more veal into your Espagnole. The moment it comes to a glaze, put part of it into a small stew-pan, for the purpose of glazing only. The most common glaze is made of remnants of broth, the liquor of braize, or fricandeaux, &c. which are to be reduced on a brisk fire. If you keep your reduction too long, it will become black and bitter. Always warm your glaze au bain marie, that it may not get too brown*. No. 77.- La Sauce Robert. Cut some onions into small dice, fry them of a fine brown, moisten them with some Espagnole, or singez t, and moisten with some gravy of veal. Skim it, that the sauce may look bright; put in a little pepper and salt, and just before you send up, mix a spoonful of mustard. No. 78.--La Livernoise Is a Macédoine, which you make with some Espagnole, instead of béchamelle. Reduce some carrots and turnips à glace, then put them into the Espagnole, which must not boil. Mind that the sauce does not taste of the roots. * Bain marie.See note to No. 42. + Singez means, put flour to it with the dredging-box. No. 79.-Le Hochepot. Turn some carrots, and in winter-time blanch them. When they are young, that operation may be dispensed with. Boil them in a little broth and sugar; when done, reduce the broth, and put the whole into a good Espagnole. Give them a good seasoning, skim the fat off, and serve up. No. 80.--La Polonoise. Take some of the liquor in which a pike has been boil- ing. Make a little white roux, moisten with the liquor, and reduce it over a large fire. Take a pint of thick cream, boil it, and whilst boiling keep turning it constantly, to prevent a kind of skin from rising. Mix the whole with the sauce, which is to be kept thick. Have ready some small turnips cut into corks or sticks, that have been boiled in a little water with salt and sugar; drain them well; add them to the sauce ; taste whether it be duly seasoned, and mask, or cover the fish. No. 81.-Cucumbers, or Blanquette. CUCUMBERS are good only when quite young; you must take care, however, that they have not a bitter taste. Those are the best that have a rough shaggy coat. Cu- cumbers are cooked in various ways, either for sauces or for entremêts. It is useless to fry them white in clarified butter, (as practised in France). As soon as they have been pared, stew them in a little sauce tournée and sugar, but do not let them stew too long. Lay them in a hair- sieve to drain, reduce the liquor in which they have been stewing, and thicken it with the yolks of four eggs. Do not put the cucumbers into the sauce till you are going to send up, for the sauce would get too thin. D 2 36 No. 82.- Essence of Cucumbers. Peel your cucumbers as above, and keep the parings, which are to be made into a purée with a little butter. When entirely melted, drain the butter, and moisten with the sauce tournée, in which you have stewed the cucum- bers, and which have been drained upon a hair-sieve, and covered with a round of paper. Reduce this purée to a state of great consistence, and mix with it four large spoonfuls of velouté. You must also put a little sugar when you stew the cucumbers in the sauce tournée. After having thrown in the velouté, and reduced it, strain the purée through a tammy. Put in the scollops, and toss them in the sauce. If the sauce should happen not to be white enough, pour one or two spoonfuls of thick cream into it. A short time before you send up, throw the cucumbers into the sauce. Serve hot, and well seasoned. This entrée is in high estimation amongst the epicures, but it requires the greatest attention, or it will turn out to be but a very indifferent dish. No. 83.--Green Peas in White Sauce. You must procure some very young peas. Do not take those which have a kind of kernel, for they are liable to break, and thicken the sauce. Put the peas into an earthen pan, with a small bit of butter, and plenty of fresh water. Handle and shake the peas well in the water, and then drain and put them to sweat on a little stove, with a small bunch of parsley and green onions. When they are nearly done, pour in four or six spoonfuls of sauce tournée ; reduce it over a large fire, thicken it with the yolks of two eggs, and send it up. If the sauce be intended to mask or cover the entrées, it must be kept thicker. 37 No. 84.-Green Peas à l'Espagnole. PREPARE as above; the only difference lies in using Espagnole instead of sauce tournée. Be particular in skim- ming the fat before you reduce the sauce. Whenever there are peas in a sauce, you must always put a little sugar. No. 85.- Les Pois au Lard, or Peas and Bacon. Cut about a pound of bacon (the breast part), fat and lean, into square pieces of about an inch; which boil in water for about half an hour to take off the salt, drain them, and fry them till they are quite brown. Then throw them among the peas, that you have previously handled in butter, as above. Let them sweat with a bunch of parsley and green onions. When well sweated, take the parsley out and put in a spoonful of Espagnole, with a lit- tle sugar and salt. There must be very little sauce, if in- tended for pois au lard only; but, if intended for sauce, it must be thinner. No. 86.- La Sauce au pauvre Homme, or Poor Man's Sauce. This sauce is generally sent up with young roasted tur- keys. Chop a few shalots very fine, and mix them with a little pepper, salt, vinegar and water, and serve it in a boat. No. 87.- Love-Apples Sauce. Melt in a stew-pan a dozen of love-apples, one onion, with a few bits of ham, a clove and a little thyme, and when melted, rub them through a tammy. With this purée mix a few spoonfuls of good Espagnole, a little salt and pepper. Boil it for twenty minutes, and serve up. i 38 No. 88.--Sauce à la Bigarade, or Bitter Orange Sauce. Cut off the thin rind only, and quite equally, of two bitter oranges. Blanch it. Have ready a rich Espagnole reduced, and throw the rind, with a small bit of sugar into it, and season it well. When you are going to send up, add the juice of one of the oranges and a little lemon. The sauce must be made strong, on account of the acids. No. 89.-La Sauce au Céleri. Cut off the stalks of a dozen heads of celery. Pare all the heads, and let them be well washed. Blanch them. Stew them in a blanc, with some beef-suet, some fat of bacon, a small bit of butter, a little salt, and some lemon- juice. When they are done, drain them well, cut them about an inch in length, and put them into some velouté, according to the new method (Vide No. 56). This sauce is not to be too highly seasoned, but kept thick for the purpose of masking. No. 90.–The Pascaline. This sauce is most particularly sent up with lamb or mutton trotters. Make a white Italienne (Vide No. 22), keep it rather thin. Thicken it with the yolks of two eggs mixed with the juice of a lemon. A short time before you send it up, throw in a little chopped parsley that has been blanched. No. 91.–Sauce à l'Aurore. Pound the spawn of a lobster with a little butter, and strain it through a hair sieve. Take the straining, and mix it with a sauce tournée reduced, and the juice of a 39 lemon. This sauce must be highly seasoned with pepper and salt, &c. It is generally sent up with fillets of trout, or fillets of soles. No. 92.—The Toulouse. HAVE an Allemande ready (Vide No. 20), and rather thick. Throw into it a ragoût of cocks' combs, kidneys, fat livers, the choicest mushrooms, small quenelles, &c. No. 93.-La Wasterfisch. When you have boiled the perch with roots of parsley, a few slices of onions, as many shreds of parsley, and some pepper and salt, drain through a silk sieve part of the sea- soning which has been reduced, with four spoonfuls of velouté or béchamelle. Then take some roots of parsley and some carrots, cut in the same manner as for the juli- enne, and let them stew with a little pepper and salt, and water. Drain them and throw them into the sauce. You must mix a little chopped and blanched parsley with this sauce, and a small bit of butter, some pepper and salt, and a very little lemon. Mask the perch, or fillets of soles with it. No. 94.-Oyster Sauce. Be careful in opening your oysters to preserve the liquor. Put them into a stew-pan over a stove on a sharp fire. When they are quite white and firm, take them out of the water with a spoon, and drain them on a hair sieve; then pour off the liquor gently into another vessel, in order to have it quite clear. Put a small bit of fresh butter into a stew-pan, with a spoonful of flour, fry it over a small fire for a few minutes ; dilute it with the oyster-liquor; add to it two spoonfuls of milk ; let it boil till the flour is quite 40 done, then add the oysters, after having taken off the beards. Season with a little salt, and one spoonful of es- sence of anchovies. No. 95.-L'Italienne with Truffles. Chop some nice black truffles. Sweat them in a little consommé, and mix them with the Brown Italian Sauce (Vide No. 23). If you should have no Italienne ready, stew them for half an hour in an Espagnole only. Let this sauce be kept thin and highly seasoned. No. 96.-La Manselle.* Make a salmi as indicated above, with this difference, that you pound all the parings and bones, &c. which you put into the sauce when it is done. Rub this purée through a tammy, and pour it over the members of game or fowls. This sauce is to be kept hot, without boiling, otherwise it will curdle. No. 97.–Sauce à la Maréchalle. Take a handful of green tarragon, and boil it for ten minutes in four spoonfuls of white vinegar. Put in a very small lump of sugar with a little salt. When the vinegar is half reduced, pour in four large spoonfuls of sauce tournée reduced, and give it one single boil. Strain your sauce through a tammy, and add to it a quarter of a pound of fresh butter. Work your sauce well, and pour it over the meat or fish, quite hot. This sauce is to be kept ra- ther thick, that it may adhere either to the meat or fish. * This sort of salmi is generally used for woodcocks or partridges, if requisite. 41 . Observations relative to the Sauces. Amongst the number of sauces that have been men- tioned, many may be found that are not to be used. But I thought it incumbent upon me to introduce them all, for fear of incurring censure. If four entrées only are to be sent up to table, it would be ridiculous to make preparations that would answer the purpose of a grand dinner. Instead then of using a great many sorts of broth, suage, coulis, &c. merely prepare a stock-pot the preceding day, if you have leisure, with twenty pounds of beef, a knuckle of veal, and a hen; do not season with too much vegetable. As this is to be used for sauces, the vegetable would give a disa- greeable taste to some of them when reduced. When you are to send up a dinner of six or eight entrées, with a view of not carrying the expense to an ex- treme, take a nice rump of beef, and about twelve pounds of buttock, a leg and knuckle of veal, and, as there must be no waste, the rump is used to make a remove; make gre- nadins, or fricandeau, or quenelles, with the noix of veal. By this means the expense is reduced. On the preceding evening put into a stock-pottwelve pounds of beef, with the bones and trimmings of the rump, a knuckle of veal, and a few other parings, if you have any. Set the pot to skim, and season it with two large onions, one of which is to be stuck with four cloves, three carrots, four large leeks, as many turnips, a head of celery, a little salt, and leave the whole to stew on a slow fire for five hours. Strain the broth through a silk sieve, and skim the fat; for if the broth of any description be not thus skimmed, it will turn sour in the course of the night. On the next day mark your sauces with this broth; and the day on which you are to serve the dinner, make anotherstock-pot with the rump, a knuckle of veal, and a hen, seasoned in the same manner as above. This broth is used for potages, and to moisten the braizes. Mark* in a stew-pan some thin slices of ham, and a few slices of veal, moistened with some of the broth, which reduce to a glaze. When it begins to thicken, so as to stick, put the stew-pan on a very slow fire, in order that the glaze may get a good colour without burning; then moisten with the broth, to which you add a bunch of parsley and green onions, and a few mushrooms; let them stew for an bour. Next make a roux, and moisten it with part of the gravy of veal; and keep some of it for the gravy of the roasts ; skim all the grease off, and use it when occasion may require. : For the white sauces, put some slices of ham in the stew-pan with a few pieces of veal, the bones and remnants of fowl, which moisten with the same broth you have used for the coulis, or Espagnole. When the meat is sweated through, cover it entirely with boiling hot broth, season with a bunch of parsley and green onions and a few mushrooms, and stew the whole for an hour and a half; skim off the fat. This consommé is used to make either the velouté No. 56, or la sauce tournée, which is the key to all other thick sauces, &c. The stock-pot. must be put on the fire at an early hour. The rump of beef must be kept hot. Reduce to glaze the broth that you have left after having made every article. This glaze may serve either to strengthen or to glaze. If you are frequently set to work, you must always have a little glaze ready. By this means you have no occasion to reduce your liquor till the following day, and it will serve for the morrow. * Mark, or prepare. 43 CHAP. II. POTAGES AND SOUPS. No. 1.- Soupe de Santé, or au Naturel. Take some broth well skimmed, and the fat taken off. Take thin slices of crust of bread, cut round, of the size of a shilling. Soak them separately in a little broth. As you are going to serve up, put the whole into a tureen without shaking, for fear of crumbling the bread, which would spoil the look of the broth, and make it thick ; add some of the vegetables that have been boiled in the broth. No. 2.-Potage consommé of Fowl. Take some consommé of fowl, and clarify it, after having mixed with it some gravy of veal, to give it a good colour. Prepare the bread as above. No. 3.---Potage à la Clermont. TAKE some good broth, mixed with a little gravy of veal, in order to give a nice brown colour to the broth. Take a dozen of small white onions, cut them into rings, and fry them in clarified butter. When they are of a fine colour, drain them on a sieve, throw them into a little broth made hot, to rid them of the butter that might remain; then mix them with the clarified broth, and let them boil for half an hour. Put in thin bits of bread, as in No. 1, and some salt. Remember that the bread would spoil the look of the broth, if put in whilst the latter is boiling. 44 . No. 4.--Potage à la Julienne. Take some carrots and turnips, and turn them ribband like, a few heads of celery, some leeks and onions, and cut them all into fillets thus: “ Then take about two ounces of butter and lay it at the bottom of a stew-pan, and the roots over the butter. Fry them on a slow fire, and keep stirring gently; moisten them with broth and gravy of veal, let them boil on the corner of the stove; skim all the fat off, put in a little sugar to take off the bitter taste of the vegetables : you may in summer time add green peas, asparagus-tops, French beans, some let- tuce, or sorrel. In winter time the taste of the vegetables being too strong, you must blanch them, and immediately after stew them in the broth : if they were fried in butter, their taste would also be too strong. Bread as above. No. 5.—The Julienne, with consommé of Fowl. The same as above, only you moisten it with consommé of fowl and put in, the back of a roasted chicken, which stew with the roots, and send up with the bread as above. No. 6.—Cressi Soup. Take the red part of eight carrots, two turnips, the white of four leeks, two onions, three heads of celery, all washed very clean. Mince the whole small, put a bit of fresh but- ter at the bottom of a stew-pan, and the roots over it; put it on a slow fire. Let it sweat a long while, and stir it fre- quently; when fried enough to be rubbed through a tammy, add a small crust of bread, moistened with some broth; let the whole boil gently. When done, skim all the fat off, and rub the whole through a tammy. Put it to boil on the corner of the stove in order to skim off all the grease, and 45 the oil of the vegetables; then cut some crumbs of bread into dice, fry it iu butter till of a good colour, and put it into the soup when you send up. No. 7.--Soupe à l'Aurore. Take some carrots, the reddest that are to be met with, scrape them well; wash them clean ; then take off the outside till you come to the middle part. Sweat it in about a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, on a very slow fire. When the carrots are soft enough, put in a crust of bread well rasped, and moistened with some good broth. Let the whole boil for about an hour, and rub it through a tammy, then pour a little more broth in, that it may boil again. Skim it; when you have taken off the fat, it will be of a reddish colour. Put in some bits of soft bread cut into dice, that have been fried in butter till they are of a light brown. No. 8.--La Brunoise *. Take some carrots, turnips, &c. cut them into dice, and in summer time fry them in butter; but in the winter sea- son blanch them. When fried without having lost their original colour, moisten them with rich broth, seasoned with salt and a little sugar, and let the whole boil for about an hour. You may add green peas, asparagus-tops, &c. Skim off the fat, and put bits of crust of bread, the same as No. 1. soaked separately in broth. These you put in only at the moment of serving up, that the bread may not crumble. No. 9.– Soupe à l'Allemande. MAKE a pâte à nouilles (see pâte à nouilles), cut into dice, blanch and drain it, and then let it cool. Boil them * This soup has the same flavour as the Julienne, the only difference is in the shape of the vegetables 46 in rich broth. When thoroughly done, take them out of the broth, and throw them into a good rich consommé of fowl well clarified. When you take them out of the liquor in which they have boiled, you must use a skimmer, and drain them in a clean napkin, then put them into the con- sommé, and serve up. No. 10.-Soupe à la Condé. Take about a pint of red beans, well washed, let them soak in soft water for about a couple of hours : then put them into a small pan with a pound of the breast part of bacon, a knuckle of veal, and the legs and back of a roast- ed fowl, if you have any such thing by you. Put the whole together with an onion stuck with two cloves, a carrot, and a couple of leeks. Moisten with soft cold water, and let the beans boil till they are quite soft. Then take the beans, pound them, and rub them through a sieve; moisten with the liquor sufficiently thin to admit the fat being skimmed off. Slices of bread prepared, as in No. 6. No. 11.--Soupe à la Faubonne. PREPARE the vegetables and roots, as in No.6. Mince some cabbage lettuce and sorrel, and sweat them sepa- rately; throw them into the soup when you have skimmed off the fat. Slices of bread as above. No. 12.-Soupe à la Carmelite. Take some lentils à la reine, which prepare as the beans above: when stewed, rub them through a tammy; moisten the purée with a little gravy of veal, and rich broth. When well skimmed throw in the bread. Send up rather thin, as it is liable to thicken when getting cold *. * This soup is very good to make when you have soupe à la reine left ; mixed with it, it is excellent. 47 No. 13.-Purée of Green Peas. Take three pints of large peas of a nice green colour, sweat them with a quarter of a pound of butter, and a handful of parsley and green onions, over a slow fire, till they be thoroughly stewed, then rub them through a tammy, and pour over the purée some very good broth. Leave it on the corner of the stove; for if it were to boil, the peas would lose their green colour. Just at the mo- ment of sending up, putin square slices of bread nicely fried. No. 14.—The same, made very green. TAKE three pints of large green peas, which mix with a little butter in two quarts of water, then drain the water from them, and add a large handful of parsley and young green onions: let it sweat over a slow fire till quite soft. Pound the whole and rub it through a tammy, moistening at the same time with strong broth. Season with sugar, salt, &c. Let it merely be made hot. The bread, cut into squares, is to be imbued separately with a little broth. TAKE No. 15.—Macaroni with consommé. Take a quarter of a pound of Naples macaroni, and boil it in water and a little butter, till it is nearly done. Strain it well, and put into a rich consommé to boil. Let it be well done ; rasp some Parmesan cheese, which send up separately in a plate. No. 16.–Lazagnes au consommé, or Flat Macaroni. TAKE Naples Lazagnes; boil them as the macaroni (Vide No. 15), and serve up in the same manner, with cheese in a separate plate. 48 No. 17.-Rice Soup. ; TAKE half a quarter of a pound of Carolina rice, picked clean, and washed in two or three different waters, till no smell or dirt remain. Blanch it in boiling water, and drain it. Then take some rich broth, season it well, throw the rice in and let it boil, but not so as to be too much done, for then it breaks and does not look well. : No. 18.—Rice with different sorts of purée. The rice is to be prepared as above: only mix it with the purée-you have chosen an hour before you send up, in order that the rice may retain the taste and colour of the vegetables. The purées intended for soups are not to be so thick as those that are intended for sauces. Those that are most generally used are, purée of carrots, turnips, ce- lery, white beans, red ditto, lentils, green peas, the cressi, &c. The mode of proceeding is the same with all the va- rious kinds of purée; they only differ in the taste and colour of the particular vegetable used. All the various vegetables being mixed together, take the name of cressi. When used separately, each retains its own respective appellation, and is made as at No. 6, p. 44. No. 19.--Vermicelli Soup. For eight people take a quarter of a pound of vermicelli, which blanch in boiling water to take off the taste of dust. Strain it and throw it into some broth that is boiling, otherwise the vermicelli would stick together, and could not be diluted unless crumbled into a thousand pieces. All purées used as above. Mind, the vermicelli must be boiled in broth before you mix it with any of the purée. 49 No. 20.- Italian Pastes. Take Italian pastes, and prepare them as above (Vide No. 19), and as follows (Vide No. 21). No. 21... Vermicelli à la Reine. BLANCH the vermicelli in boiling water, drain it, and throw it into some rich consommé well seasoned. When done, a short time before you send it up thicken it with the yolks of eight eggs, mixed with cream, and pour the vermicelli into the tureen for fear the thickening should get too much done, which would be the case if it remained on the corner of the stove. No. 22.- Turnip Broth Is made with about a dozen of turnips, peeled and cut into slices. Blanch them for a short time in water; drain them, and put them with a knuckle of veal, a small piece of beef, and the half of a hen, into a stew-pan; and pour some rich boiling broth over the whole. Let the whole stew for about two hours. Then strain it through a double silk sieve, and use it with rice, vermicelli, &c. &c. No. 23.Potage à la Reine : a new Method. For twelve people take three fat chickens or pullets, which are generally cheaper and better than fowls : skin them, take out the lungs, wash them clean, and mark them in a pan with a bunch of parsley only; moisten the whole with good boiling broth: let it stew for an hour, then take out the chickens : soak the crumb of two penny loaves in the broth; take off the flesh of the chickens, and pound it with the yolks of three or four eggs boiled hard, and the crumb of bread which has been sufficiently soaked in the 50 broth. Rub the whole through a tammy; then put a quart of cream on the fire, and keep it stirring continually till it boils. Pour it into the soup. It is not liable to curdle as when the other method is used, and it tastes more of the chickens. If you think proper to add either barley, rice, or vermicelli, let it be stewed in broth beforehand, and pour it into the soup only when quite done. When you have a great dinner, and fowls are very dear, you must use the fillets for entrées, and make the soup with the legs only; the soup is as good, but not quite so white, as when made with the fillets. . . . ".!? No. 24.-Semolina with Consommé. Boil some consommé and throw the semolina into it. If you are inclined to mix a purée with it, keep the semolina thinner. You may use any purée you please, the same as with rice, No.18.'. ", ", No. 25.-Cream.of Rice. This is flour of rice, which you make yourself in the following manner. Take a pound of rice, well washed in different waters, and drained and wiped with a clean towel. Let it get quite dry; then pound and shake it through a sieve. Take one or two spoonfuls of this flour, and dilute it with broth, rather cold than hot. All this time you have some broth on the fire; throw the flour of rice thus diluted into the broth, and keep stirring till you find the soup is not too thick and may boil without the rice burning. This same kind of rice flour, may serve for soufflés of the second course. 4.1 No. 26.-The Garbure, with Brown Bread. Take a knuckle of ham, perfectly sweet, a knuckle of veal, and about six pounds of flank of beef, which put into 51 a pan, with an onion stuck with two cloves, a few carrots, &c.; pour over the above two ladles of broth, and let the whole sweat over a slow fire. When the meat is done through the middle, cover it entirely with boiling broth, and let the whole stew for three hours. Then take one or more cabbages, which are to be washed clean and blanched. Braize them between layers of bacon, and moisten them with the liquor in which the sweating has been made, strained through a silk sieve. You must observe, that if the cab- bages are not made rich and mellow, they are good for nothing. Add to the above, either sausages, bacon, or stewed legs of geese if you have any: mind above all things, that the cabbage be not too briny, for the soup then would not be eatable. When the cabbage and broth are stewed enough, cut very thin slices of rye-bread: drain the cabbage in a cloth, so that there be no fat left; then take a large deep silver dish, lay a bed of bread, and over that, one of cabbage, and moisten them with a little broth; let them gratiner on a slow fire. When the cab- bage and bread are sufficiently moistened, lay on six or eight beds more of each, and let it simmer on the stove. Send up with the ham on the middle; the bacon, the legs of geese, and sausages on the borders, and some broth separately. No. 27.-Potage with Cabbage. Take four cabbages, with curling leaves; wash them clean, blanch and braize them with a little seasoning; ob- serving however, that for a soup they are not to be so highly seasoned as for an entrée. Your soup may be prepared as in No.l. Cut the cabbages into quarters, and put them into the soup when the latter is in the tureen. This broth is to be prepared plain, and kept clear, as the cabbages, being braized, are very tasty ; cut them nicely on the top of the tureen. E 2 52 No. 28.-German Cabbage Soup. Take a white cabbage, mince and wash it well, and let it sweat on a slow fire in a little butter. When it begins to get tender and to be a little reduced, moisten it with half broth and half gravy of veal very clear; skim off the fat, and when the soup gets of a fine brown colour, throw in slices of bread cut the size of a penny thus (), and send up. No. 29.-Soupe à la Bonne-Femme; or good Woman's Soup. Take two handfuls of sorrel ; after having taken off the stalks, put the leaves one above another and mince them. Take the hearts of two or three cabbage-lettuces, which mince likewise. Wash the whole well, then take about two ounces of fresh butter, and put the herbs to melt in a small stock-pot. When so, moisten with broth *, and let it boil for an hour. Skim off the fat, and throw in a little sugar, to take off the acidity of the sorrel. Then thicken the soup with the yolks of eight eggs, mixed with a little cream. Remember to keep a little broth to soak the bread in, for this could not be done in broth after it is thickened. No.30.--Potage aux Nouilles. • Take a handful or two of flour, with which mix a little salts, the yolks of three eggs, a little water, and a small bit of butter. Let this paste be as compact as possible. Spread it very thin on the table, next cut it into small slices as a Julienne ; then blanch it in water, drain it, and let it cool, in order to get rid of the flour, which might spoil the * If you have in the larder, the back and legs of a roast fowl, put them into a stew-pan with a few carrots, turnips, and celery; a little parsley and chervil, &c. ; moisten with some good broth; let the whole boil till tho- roughly done, and skim it well, strain it, and moisten the sorrel with this. 53 appearance of the soup. Throw the paste into some rich broth, and let it stew till it is mellow. You may intro- duce either turnip broth, or purée as above. No.31. -Soupe à la Borgosse. This soup, although a potage de desserte, has some ad- mirers even amongst the first epicures. If you should have left in your larder a small quantity of rice soup or peas soup, or good woman's soup, mix and make them hot, but without boiling, as the thickening would most undoubtedly curdle. Rub the whole through a tammy, and put it into a stew-pan au bain marie. Then boil some green Windsor beans; when done, skim them, and throw them into the soup; when you are going to send up, put in some bits of bread cut into dice, fried in butter, and well drained of the butter. . No. 32.-Milk Soup, with Almond Laurel. Boil in a quart of milk, a leaf of almond laurel, some sugar, and a little salt. Thicken it with the yolks of six eggs just as you are going to send up. As to the bread, crumb only is used in this instance, which is to be shaped of the size of a penny, and glazed in the oven with sugar. Lay it in the tureen, and pour the soup over when you send up. No. 33.--Potage au Lait d'Amande. Boil a quart of milk as above, seasoned with a little salt. The bread as in No. 32. Put a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds and a dozen of bitter ones, into hot water, peel them, and pound them in a mortar; moisten with a little milk, to prevent their turning into oil. When sufficiently fine, rub them through a tammy, and throw them into the soup instead of a thickening. They must not boil. 54 No. 34.-La Tortue. Turtle Soup. If you wish to make turtle soup with less difficulty, cut off the head the preceding day. In the morning open the turtle: this is done by leaning heavy with your knife on the shell of the animal's back, whilst you cut it off all round. Turn it upright on its end, that all the water, &c. may run out. Then cut the flesh off along the spine, with your knife sloped towards the bones, for fear of touching the gall, which sometimes might escape your eye. When you have obtained all the flesh that is about the members, wash them clean, and let them drain. Have ready a large vessel full of boiling water on the fire, put in the shells, and when you perceive that they come off easily, take them out of the water, and prick all the shells of the back, belly, fins, head, &c. Boil the back and belly in water till you can take off the bones, without, however, allowing the softer parts to be done enough, as they will boil again in the sauce. When these latter come off easily, lay them on earthen dishes singly, for fear they should stick toge- ther, and put them to cool. Keep the liquor in which you have blanched the softer parts, and let the bones stew thoroughly in it, as this liquor must be used to moisten all the sauces. All the flesh of the interior parts, the four legs and head, must be sweated in the following manner. Lay a few slices of ham on the bottom of a very large stew-pan. Lay over the ham two or three knuckles of veal, according to the size of your turtle, and over the veal the inside flesh of the turtle, and the members over the whole. Then partly moisten it with the water in which you are boiling the shell, and sweat it thoroughly. Then moisten it again with the liquor in which the bones, &c. have been boiling, put in a large bunch of all such sweet herbs as are used in the 55 cooking of a turtle : sweet basil, sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, winter savory, two or three bay-leaves, common thyme, a handful of parsley and green onions, and a large onion stuck with six cloves. Let the whole be thoroughly done. With respect to the members, probe them, to see whether they are done, and when done, drain and send them to the larder, as they are to make their appearance only when the sauce is absolutely completed. When the flesh is also completely done, drain it through a silk sieve'; make a white roux very thin, for turtle soup must not be much' thickened; when the flour is sufficiently done on a slow fire, moisten it with the sweating. By this time all the softer parts are cold enough; cut them about an inch square without waste, mix the whole with the sauce, which must simmer gently. Then try them again, for if done enough, they are not to be kept on the fire. . Skim all the fat and froth. Next take a small quantity of the herbs, which are to be chopped fine. For a turtle of 120lbs. weight, take four bottles of Madeira, which must be re- duced to two. Let the sweet herbs boil in the wine with a little sugar, to take off the tartness of the wine and herbs: then rub them through a tammy, and pour that over the turtle sauce, and let the whole boil for a short time. Then make some quenelles à tortue, which being substitutes for eggs, do not require to be very delicate. They are made in the following manner: take the fleshy part of a leg of veal, about one pound, scrape off all the meat, without leaving any sinews or fat, and soak in milk about the same quantity of crumbs of bread. When the bread is well soaked, squeeze it, and put it into a mortar, with the veal, a small quantity of calves' udder, a little butter, the yolks of four eggs boiled hard, a little Cayenne pepper, salt, and spices, and pound the whole very fine. Then thicken the mixture with two whole eggs, and the yolks of another. 56 Next try the farce in boiling hot water; and if too thin, you add the yolk of an egg. When the farce is in perfection, take half of it and put into it some chopped parsley. Let the whole cool, in order to roll it of the size of the yolk of an egg; poach it in water, and put it into the turtle. Be- fore you send up, squeeze the juice of two or three lemons, with a little Cayenne pepper, and pour that into the soup. The fins may be served as a plat d'entrée with a little tur- tle sauce; if not, on the following day you may warm the turtle au bain marie, and serve the members entire, with a matelotte sauce, garnished with mushrooms, cocks' combs, quenelles, &c. When either lemon-juice or Cayenne pep- per have been introduced, no boiling must take place. It is necessary to observe, that the turtle prepared a day before it is used, is generally preferable, the flavour being more uniform. Some people require besides, fricandeaux, blanquettes, &c. all of which are prepared in the same manner as veal. (See fricandeaur, blanquettes.) No. 35.Spring Soup. TAKE carrots, turnips, heads of celery, and small onions, cut into the shape of olives, blanch them, in winter; but in. summer, fry them with a little butter, and put them to boil in clear broth, with a little sugar. Have ready the green tops of asparagus, and French beans cut into lozenges, which have been boiled separately in water very green, put them into the soup, when you send up, with slices of bread cut of the size of a penny, and soaked separately in a little broth; if you have any peas ready, you may put in some likewise. No. 36.-Potage à la Jardinière, or Gardener's Soup. This is like all other Spring soups, only and leaves of sorrel and lettuce, without the stalks. 57 No. 37.-Mutton Cutlet Soup. Take a neck of mutton, cut off all the ribs to put into the soup, which is to be made in the following manner :: put all the trimmings of the chops, with a knuckle of veal, into a stew-pan, with leeks, a few turnips, and shreds of parsley. Moisten the whole with good boiling broth. Let it stew for two hours; then put the chops to boil thoroughly in that broth, in order that they discharge no scum. Have some pearl-barley boiled in water. Drain it well, put it into a stew-pan with some of the broth strained through a silk-sieve. You must likewise have a few turnips, cut into dice, which you put with the pearl-barley, when the turnips are nearly done enough. Lastly, drain the chops from the broth, and give them a few boils with the barley and turnips; skim all the fat, and serve up the chops, ribs, or cutlets, as you please to call them, in the soup, and put in a little parsley chopped very fine. No.38.-Hochepot Soup. Cut some carrots, turnips, and a few heads of celery, into the shape of small corks or otherwise. Blanch them, and put them into some nice brown clear broth. Let them boil for about an hour. You must have a few mutton chops done separately, that they may not make the broth look white. Throw them into the soup, with the bread as in No. l. Serve up hot, and without any fat. No. 39.-Mock Turtle, English Fashion. Take a calf's head very white and very fresh, bone the nose part of it; put the head into some warm water to dis- charge the blood. Squeeze the flesh with your hand, to ascertain that it is all out. Blanch the head in boiling water; when firm, put it into cold water, prepared blanc 58 in the following way to boil it in: cut half a pound of fat bacon, a pound of beef suet, an onion stuck with a clove, and two slices of lemon; put all this into a vessel, with water enough to contain the head; boil the head in this, and leave it in to cool, then make the sauce in the follow- ing manner. Put into a stew-pan a pound of ham cut in slices, put. over the ham two knuckles of veal, a large onion, and two carrots, moisten with some of the broth in which you have boiled the head, to half the depth of the meat only, cover the stew-pan, and put it over the fire to sweat through, let the broth reduce to a very good colour, turn up the meat, for fear of burning. When you have a very good colour, moisten with the whole broth from the head, season with a large bundle of sweet herbs, viz. sweet basil, sweet mar- joram, lemon thyme, common thyme, two cloves, a bay-leaf, a few allspice, parsley, and green onions, and a few mush- rooms; let this boil together for one hour, then drain it. Put into a stew-pan a quarter of a pound of very fresh butter, let it melt over a slow fire; put to this butter as much flour as it can receive; let it go gently over a slow fire, till the flour has acquired a very good brown colour; moisten this gradually with the broth, till you have em- ployed it all; add half a bottle of Sherry or Madeira; let the sauce boil, that the flour may be well done ; take off all the scum and fat; cut the calf's head into square pieces of about an inch each; put them to boil in the sauce ; season with salt, Cayenne pepper, and lemon-juice, and add some quenelles. (See farce à quenelle). Observe, that you must not have the quenelles too deli- cate, for they would break in the soup, and spoil the look of it; the calf's head must not be too much done; thrust your knife into the skin, and if the knife enters and de- taches itself easily, the meat is done enough. Some gen- 59 tlemen will have their mock turtle green; in that case, you must do as follows: put into a stew-pan a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, mince one onion or two, add a handful of each of the herbs described above, and sweat it all gently over a slow fire. When the herbs are well done, moisten with some of the sauce, and rub it through a tammy; lastly, mix this with the sauce, and the turtle will be green, without any alteration in the flavour. No. 40.--Potage à la Bauveau. Take some turnips, peel them, and use a cutter with which you cut out a few balls as round as possible, but very small. Blanch them, and boil them in some consommé, well clarified, with a little sugar. Serve up with bits of bread as in No. 1. It must appear very bright; put to it two spoonfuls of gravy of veal. Entrées that are to be served as Soups, or which want much Sauce, and are consequently to be served in deep Dishes. No. 1.-Macaroni with Parmesan Cheese. Boil some Naples macaroni in water, salt, and butter. When it is done, put into a stew-pan a quarter of a pound of butter, some rasped Parmesan cheese, some Gruyère or Swiss cheese likewise, a little pepper, and a spoonful of cream. Then drain the macaroni, and toss it till the cheese be well mixed with it; then pour it into a dish; sprinkle some rasped cheese over it, baste it with a little butter, and use the salamander to make it brown, for the butter would turn to oil if you were to bake it in the oven. 60 No. 2.--Breast of Lamb with Green Peas, brown. Braize the whole breast; when it is done take out the small bones, flatten it between two dishes, and let it cool. Next cut it into the size of small chops, and warm it in some of the liquor in which the breast has been braized; lastly, drain and glaze it, and cover it with your peas in the following manner. Take some very fine peas, which you handle in water with a little fresh butter; drain them, then sweat them over a very slow fire, with a small slice of ham, and a bunch of parsley and green onions. When they are nearly done, take out the ham, and the parsley and onions ; reduce them with two spoonfuls of Espagnole and a little sugar. They are used to mask the meat. If you have no Espagnole, put a tea-spoonful of flour with the peas, moisten with some of the liquor which has braized the breast of lamb or mutton; reduce it, and season with salt and pepper; mind that the sauce must be very short. No. 3.--Breast of Lamb with Peus, white. Take a breast of lamb, which braize as above. Stew the peas also in the same manner; but instead of using the Espagnole you must use the sauce tournée. When you have no sauce tournée, a small bit of butter, and a tea-spoonful of flour, will answer the same purpose; moisten with broth only. Thicken your sauce with the yolks of two eggs, that it may look whiter. (See Sauces.) w No. 4.- Tendons of Veal with Peas. (See entrées de Veau.) I mention them here, only be- cause they are sent up in deep dishes. The peas are prepared as above. (See Sauces.) 61 No.5.--Tendons of Veal, en Haricots Vierges. Braize them as indicated (entrées of Veal), and mask them with an haricot vierge. (See Sauces.) No. 6.-Tendonis of Veal en Chipolata. Braize the tendons as above. The chipolata is made in the following manner. You have some chesnuts ready peeled and boiled; take a few small sausages, some small onions stewed very white, likewise bits of bacon, the breast part, cut into corks, and also stewed white, and some mush- rooms, which you stew with some sauce tournée. When the sauce is in a proper state of forwardness, thicken it; put in all the ingredients, and after having dished the tendons in the shape of a miroton, or one upon another round the dish, put the chipolata into the middle, but keep some of the sauce to mask the tendons. You may add some cocks'- combs, &c. It is almost unnecessary to observe, that all the ingredients of the chipolata must be done separately, and put into the sauce when ready to serve up. When you want to serve the chipolata white, you must use white sauce instead of brown; the motive for having two colours is, that sometimes in spite of your endeavours to keep the tendons very white, as well as all the other ingredients, you can only succeed in obtaining a darkish colour ; in that case, you must make the chipolata brown. No. 7.-Green Peas with Bacon, French Fashion, These may be served without any other meat; but they may also serve as a sauce for tendons either of veal or of lamb, members of fowl, and giblets of turkey. It is to be observed, however, that those articles which are served in a deep dish, must be cut up, as you could not carve them in 62 so much liquid. Take some bacon, the breast part, cut about an inch square, boil it in water to extract the salt, then fry it in a little butter till it is of a fine brown. Next handle some fine peas and a little fresh butter in cold water. After having drained them, put them into a stew- pan with the bacon, and a bunch of parsley and green onions. Let the whole sweat over a slow fire. When nearly done, moisten with two or three spoonfuls of Espagnole and a little sugar. Boil them a few minutes. Send up either with or without any other meat. No. 8.--Breast of Mutton en Haricot. BRAIZE the breast of mutton as you would do any other meat; when done, take out the small bones and let the breast cool. Then have the meat cut into hearts; warm them again separately in a little of the liquor, and after having drained them, mask them with the haricot. (See Sauces:) No. 9.-Breast of Mutton en Hochepot. Braize* it as above, and mask it with a hochepot. (See Sauces.) * Braizes in general.-It is necessary to observe, that every thing which has the name of braize, must be done thoroughly, and must likewise be seasoned with vegetables, spices, sweet herbs, &c. Braizes belong rather to à common style of cookery, but to be made in their perfection, they are one of the difficulties of the art ; they require so much care and such con- stant attendance, as to be very often neglected in a gentleman's kitchen. I shall name those things that are in most frequent use, and are of the class of braizes, viz. Fricandeaux, sweet-breads, mutton à la soubise, tendons of veal in all their styles, galentines, cotelettes à la dreux, ditto è la chalon, partridges with cabbage, pheasants ditto, rump of beef, breast of ditto, leg of mutton, &c. &c. are all braized. Every thing that is termed poële, must have its proper time to be done ; and as the poële must preserve the colour of the fowl, and sometimes even whiten it, it is not an easy matter to make it in perfection. No. 10.-Lamb's Pluck à la Pascaline.. Take the head, trotters, liver, lights, &c.; bone the head and trotters as well as you can. Set them to disgorge, and blanch them. Then boil them in a blanc as you would do a calf's head. When thoroughly done, drain them and cover them with the pascaline, which is no other thing than a white Italienne, that you have thickened. (See Sauces.) CO No. 11.- The Civet of Hare Is only mentioned here, to imply that it is sent up in a deep dish. (See entrées of Game, and Hare Soup.) No. 12.-Duck, with Sour-Crout. SOUR-CROUT is sold ready pickled. Drain some, and put it into a braizing-pan with a piece of bacon (the breast part), a bunch of parsley and green onions, spices, bay- leaves, thyme, and mace; put also a little whole pepper. Next put the duck in the middle of the sour-crout, cover the whole with layers of bacon, and moisten with some liquor of braize, or top-pot*, strained through a silk sieve. If you should have a knuckle of ham, you may put it in after having blanched it.. You may add a German sausage, together with some English sausages, observing that the small sausages must not be added till half an hour before serving up, otherwise they would be too much done. Three hours are required for the above to be done over a slow fire. When the sour-crout is done, put it into a large hair sieve to drain; then dish it, that is, put it into a deep dish with the duck in the middle, the sausages and bacon, &c. being put round it. The duck will be better if cut into • ' * Top-pot, is the fat that comes over the broth. 65 No. 16.--Legs of Fowls with Nouilles. When you have a large dinner to send up, you necessa- rily have a vast quantity of fillets of fowl, and as many legs. You must use them in preference for a deep dish. Bone the thighs, season well inside, and sew them up so as to give them a good shape. Next braize them as white as possible, and sauce them with the nouilles. This dish is most excellent. For a family dinner, the day after com- pany, you may make a soup of it; instead of sauce put broth, and let there be less nouilles. No. 17.-Eggs à la Tripe. Take a dozen of eggs boiled hard, cut them into thick round slices, and put them into the sauce, which follows. Cut three large white onions into dice; fry them white in butter; when they are nearly done, powder them well over with flour, and moisten with some good milk, and a few spoonfuls of cream. Keep stirring with a wooden spoon to prevent their burning. When the sauce is done, grate a little nutmeg into it, and season with a little salt and pep- per, &c. then throw the eggs in and send up. No. 18.-Eggs à la Crème en Surprise. Take a dozen of eggs boiled hard, and cut them in two. Then take out the yolks and rub them through a hair sieve. Chop the whites very fine, and make a sauce à la crême, which is marked the same as melted butter, except that you moisten it with cream. When the sauce is well done, add to it a lump of butter, throw the chopped whites into the sauce, and season it well. Lastly, pour the sauce and whites into the dish, and cover the whole with the yolks, which you baste with a little butter, and make them brown with a red hot shovel or salamander. F 66 No. 19.-Hochepot of Rump of Beef. Beef tail is very good eating, but in general it is sel- dom sent up as an entrée, although en hochepot et en haricot (see Sauces) they may be served in a deep dish. The beef tail is to be cut in the joints, and left to disgorge in water. It must next be blanched. You then let it cool, and put it between layers of bacon, to prevent its getting black. Moisten and season it with carrots, onions, &c. When done, drain it, and serve up with the sauces above-men- tioned. Observe that this dish must be well done, as the meat must detach itself freely from the bones. No. 20.—The same, en Haricot brun. Braize as above, and cover with haricot brun. (See Sauces.) No. 21.-The same, with Green Peas. The same as above ; mask with green peas, No. 7, page 61. 67 CHAP. III. REMOVES OF THE SOUPS AND FISH. No. 1.-Rump of Beef glazed. The rump is undoubtedly the best part of the beef, and particularly for French cookery; it is necessary to select for this dish, that which is most covered with fat; cut out the small fillet first; then take out the bone, and tie it round of a good shape; put it into the stock-pot in which you make the broth. When done, drain it a quarter of an- hour before dinner-time, that you may trim it well and glaze it several times. Dish it with green parsley all round. It is necessary to observe, that as the best eating part is that which is most covered with fat, the cook must be particular in trimming the fat, and leaving only what is necessary to receive the glaze. The manner of cutting the meat is a great advantage to the savour; the cook must mark the place with chopped parsley, as was my constant practice when I had occasion to serve the rump of beef. Several people braize the rump of beef, a practice of which I do not approve, as it gets too highly seasoned for people who have so many other things to eat. The sauces and garnitures that are served at the same time are sufficiently seasoned, without the beef being so like- wise. Besides, the first method is the most economical, as the braized rump furnishes too rich a liquor to be used in delicate cookery. Moreover, when boiled in the com- mon way, the rump is more wholesome, makes more broth, F 2 68 and therefore deserves the preference. However, not to disappoint such as might like it, I shall proceed to treat of No. 2.—Rump of Beef braized. Take a rump of beef well covered with fat; bone it, tie it up with packthread. Then put layers of bacon at the bottom of a braizing-pan; lay the rump of beef with its top part upwards on the bacon: next cut into slices a large quantity of veal, which serve to wrap up the beef; then cover the whole with layers of bacon, put in some carrots, onions, parsley, green onions, thyme, bay-leaves, mace, cloves, spice, salt, and pepper. Moisten with a little broth; then close the braizing-pan as hermetically as possible, and let the meat stew on a slow fire for four hours; when done, reduce some of the liquor, and glaze it with the same. Then take some carrots that have been braized with the beef, and trim them of a nice shape. They must be served up glazed. Add likewise some glazed onions and braized lettuce, and put all those roots and vegetables round the rump in small heaps, then send up with some of the liquor that you have thickened with brown sauce; if you have no sauce, put half a quarter of a pound of butter into a small stew-pan, mix with it a tea-spoonful of flour, mois- ten with some of the liquor; add a little gråvy to give it a good colour, and when well done, put it over the rump. No.3.-Breast of Beef, à la Flamande. Take that part of a breast of beef which contains the gristle, and season it the same as the rump. Put to it some carrots and turnips cut into the shape of corks, and some braized cabbage. When done, drain the vegetables, and dress them round the beef in the same manner as in the preceding article (the Rump). The sauce also the same. You should also have some small vegetables boiled to glaze, 69 which spread over after having poured the sauce. This breast of beef may be sent up whole, the same as the rump, No. 1 and 2, garnished with glazed onions, cabbage and sausages, hochepot, petty patties à la Mazarine ; lettuce glazed à l'Espagnole, artichoke bottoms ditto, cauliflowers, &c. &c. • No. 4.-Surloin of Beef roasted. The principal observation and direction required with regard to this article, is, that it is of all the parts the most delicate; and when the piece is very big, the fire must be more moderate, as it is very long before the mid- dle can be warm. If your fire is sharp, the meat will be burnt on the outside, and quite raw in the middle. Ano- ther necessary observation is, that when you put the spit too low, the meat loses a great deal of the heat, receiving it only from the top: to keep down the colour, it is better to cover it with a few sheets of white paper, and uncover it only when the meat is nearly done. : No.5.-Leg of Mutton roasted. This joint is with reason the great favourite of an Eng- lish epicure, and the one that makes its appearance oftener than any other at his table: the Welsh mutton is in very great repute; but I have frequently dressed some Leices- tershire, equal to any mutton in the world. This joint does not allow of being covered with paper. It must be cut in the joint, that it may be bent round when put on the spit: this operation makes the meat carve better; as the sinews have been cut, they don't shrink, and the gravy remains more in the meat. A leg of mutton shews its goodness when the sinews are very small, and the back of it appears very brown: it is never in that state till three or four years old; and it must have that age to be in perfection. 70 The leg must be roasted by a pretty sharp fire, to keep the gravy round it. : No. 6.--Saddle of Mutton roasted. This joint is likewise a great favourite, and possesses a very delicate meat, particularly if carved in the proper way; the only objection is the great weight of the joint, consi- dering how very little meat may be cut out of it, you must procure for this joint a proper skewer, give a little nick with the chopper to separate the bone near the tail, and put the skewer through; then tie the saddle on the spit, and roast it the same way as the leg, before a sharp fire, otherwise it is not so tasty. To carve it well, you must make an incision about three inches along the bone, then cut it sideways as a cutlet; in this way the meat is better. Those persons who dislike the fat, may leave it on their plates. By this mode of carving, you may serve twelve people instead of six. No.7.- Braized Leg of Mutton, otherwise Gigot de Sept Heures Put the leg of mutton into a braizing-pan; trim it with a little veal, a few carrots, onions, and a bunch of parsley and green onions, properly seasoned. Cover the whole with thin slices of bacon, to prevent its being burnt. Let it stew for about four hours; then strain the liquor through a silk sieve; reduce it to glaze, and then glaze the leg of mutton which you send up, with glazed onions, or white beans à la maitre d'hôtel, or à la Lyonnaise. No. 8.—Loin of Veal roasted, TAKE a fine loin of veal, which cut quite square. In- troduce attelets, or skewers, in the flank which you have 71 rolled up. Then fix it on the spit, and cover it with but- tered paper. Take the paper off about a quarter of an hour before you send the joint up, that it may be of a nice brown colour. Gravy alone is requisite under the joint. No. 9.-Loin of Veal à la béchamel. When you have served a loin of veal, and very little has been eaten of it, take off the fillet, cover the whole with some buttered paper, and put it to warm in the oven; when well warmed, make a blanquette with what you have taken out; replace it in the fillet, and serve up very hot. This is as good as a new dish, and looks as well. No. 10.-Loin of Veal à la Crême. The same as the first, No. 8. As soon as it is done, take off the fillet and cut it in scollops, which throw into the sauce à blanquette. (See Sauce à blanquette.) Put this blanquette into the aperture, and send up with the same sauce under it. No. 11.-Calf's Head plain. Take a nice calf's head and bone it, that is to say, take off the bones of the lower jaw, and of the nose, which you cut off as close to the eyes as possible. Then put all this into a large vessel with warm water, to wash off the blood, or otherwise the head would look reddish. Then blanch it thoroughly and let it cool. Now make a blanc in the fol- lowing manner: one pound of beef suet, cut into dice, one pound of fat bacon, also cut into dice, half a pound of butter, the juice of a lemon, salt and pepper, one or two onions, a bunch of parsley, seasoned with thyme, bay- leaves, cloves, mace, allspice, and water enough to cover the calf's head. When the blanc has boiled for an hour, 72 fold the head up in a clean towel, let it boil in that blanc for about three hours. When done, drain it. Take out the tongue, flay it, and then replace it. A calf's head must be served up quite hot, with a sauce called au pauvre homme, namely, minced shalots, parsley ditto, vinegar, salt and pepper, and the brains well minced. No. 12.-Calf's Head, with Love-Apple Sauce. The same as in No. 11; with this difference only, that it is to be covered with love-apple sauce. No. 13.-Calf's Head bigarrée. Take a nice calf's head, which prepare as in No.11; drain it whilst hot, that you may be able to give it a good shape; then divide it into two parts, which squeeze hard between two dishes, and let them cool. When quite cold, dip one half into the yolks of four eggs well beaten up with butter, and a little salt and pepper, then into crumbs of bread. This is to be repeated twice. Do the same with the other half, only add plenty of chopped parsley to the crumbs of bread, that it may be made quite green. Next put both halves into an oven till they are of a nice brown colour, and serve up with either a sharp sauce, an Italienne, or a love-apple sauce. When you have no other sauce by you but a little glaze, make some good melted butter, and put to it some blanched and chopped parsley, some salt and Cayenne pepper, and the brains chopped. Add a small bit of glaze or portable soup, and you will find this sauce as good as many others. No. 14.-Calf's Head du Puits certain. Bone a calf's head. Make a farce or force meat with yeal, fat bacon, and sweet herbs, chopped fine and highly 73 seasoned. Add to it two or three yolks of eggs. When made, stuff the calf's head with it, and sew it up all round, to prevent the stuffing from falling out, then wrap it up in a cloth, and stew it à la braize ; that is to say, put it into a braizing-pan with an abundance of slices of veal and layers of bacon, seasoned with carrots, a bunch of parsley, thyme, bay-leaf; and spice; moisten with a glass of white wine, and a ladle-full of broth*. Let it stew for four hours, and serve up with a financière. * No. 15.-Calf's Head à la Chambord. Dress it as indicated at No. 13. When done and drained, take pieces of pickled cucumbers and truffles cut into the shape of nails, with which symmetrically stick.. the head; then sauce it with a financière, garnished with larded sweetbreads, large quenelles, pigeons à la gautier, and some craw-fish. . No. 16.— Farm-Yard Turkey à la Montmorenci. Take a large fat farm-yard turkey: truss it up as if it were to be poëlé; dip the breast into boiling hot water to make it firm, which will enable you to lard it nicely; then braize it with a good fire on the cover of the pan, that the bacon may get dry and retain the glaze better when you glaze it. Take care not to do it too much; drain it, and serve up with a financière of a fine light brown colour and well seasoned. No. 17.-Turkey and Celery Sauce. Truss it nicely, wrap it up in layers of bacon; then boil it in plain water with a little salt, butter, and lemon- juice. Drain it, and maskt it with celery sauce. (See Sauces.) * Some of the liquor in which you have boiled the calf's head reduced with some of the sauce. f Mask, means to cover it with the sauce. 74 No. 18.--Turkey à la Périgueur, with Truffles. TAKE a nice fat turkey the moment it has been killed ; empty it, and put plenty of salt inside of the body, to draw the blood out. Then let it cool, and prepare some truffles in the following manner : take two or three pounds, peel them, and smell whether they are all of a good flavour. Then pick out the smallest from amongst them, and chop them very fine. Take some fat white bacon, and rasp it so as to obtain the fat only, without any of the sinews. When you have thus rasped a sufficient quantity to fill the body of the turkey, stuff the turkey with the chopped truffles, together with the whole ones, and bacon seasoned with salt, spices, pepper, and Cayenne pepper, well mixed together. Sew the turkey up, and keep it in the larder long enough for it to obtain a fine flavour of the truffles. Then roast it well, wrapped up in layers of bacon, and covered with paper, &c. Serve up with a purée of ches- nuts à brun*. No. 19.--Fowls à la Condé. Take a couple of fine white fowls, empty them, take off the bone of the breast, and the sinews of the legs, then truss them, and put into the body a little butter, seasoned with lemon-juice and salt, which will make the fowls look well and whiter. Next mark them in a stew-pan trimmed with layers of bacon, cover them well, and pour over them a poële, which is made in the following manner: take a pound of veal, a pound of fat bacon, and a little fat of ham, all cut into dice. Fry the whole white in half a pound of butter. Moisten the whole with boiling water ; season * This dish is one of the best in cookery, if it is well seasoned and roasted. It is necessary to observe, that the carver must serve the inside with the fillet, as that is one of the best parts of the dish. - 75 with a bunch of parsley, salt, and pepper, a little thyme, half a bay-leaf, and a clove, and when sufficiently stewed, strain it through a hair-sieve over the fowls, which stew for three quarters of an hour over a slow fire, but keep a brisk fire on the cover of the stew-pan. When done, drain and dish them with a tongue à l'écarlate in the mid- dle, and the sauce à la financière under it. No. 20.-Fowls à la Montmorenci ARE prepared the same as fowls à la Condé, with this only exception, that the breast of these is to be larded, and glazed of a fine colour : garnish with larded sweet- breads, quenelles à la cuillière, &c. and a ragoût à l'Alle- mande for sauce*. No. 21.-Capons à la Turque. TAKE two white capons, empty them, and put them into warm water that they may disgorge the blood, which would otherwise produce a great deal of scum. Have ready some rice which has boiled till soft in rich consommé, put this rice well seasoned into the body of the capons; then truss them, cover them with layers of bacon, wrap them up in paper, and spit them; they must be an hour roast- ing. When done, dish them with a garnish of soft rice, and a velouté for sauce. No. 22.-Westphalia Ham à l’Essence. Take a small Westphalia ham, and trim it well. Be particular in sawing off the knuckle, in order not to break the bone into splinters. Keep it one day in water, to take * Observe, that the difference of ragouts is in their colour only; finan- cière is brown; Allemande, or Royal, or Toulouse, are white. In general, you must put white sauce with glazed entrée, and brown with white. 76 out the brine, and boil it in plain water for four hours. When done, drain it, take off the rind, and give it a nice round form. Then put it in the oven for a few minutes to dry the fat, which otherwise could not be glazed pro- perly. When quite dried, glaze it of a fine colour, and serve under it an essence. (See Sauces.) Receipt to make a Ham better than those of Westphalia. As soon as the pig is cold enough to be cut up, take the two hams, and cut out the round bone, so as to have the ham not too thick; rub them well with common salt, and leave them in a large pan for three days; when the salt has drawn out all the blood, throw the brine away and proceed as follows: for two hams of about eighteen pounds each, take one pound of moist sugar, one pound of common salt, and two ounces of saltpetre, mix them together, and rub the hams well with it, then put them into a vessel large enough to contain them in the liquor, always keeping the salt over them; after they have been in this state three days, throw over them a bottle of good vinegar. One month is requisite for the cure of them; during that period they must be often turned in the brine; when you take them out, drain them well, powder them with some coarse flour, and hang them in a dry place. The same brine can serve again, observing that you must not put so much salt on the next hams that you pickle. No. 23.-Ham with Madeira. Take in preference a Bayonne ham, which prepare in the same manner as directed above: but it need not be left so long in water, as it is not so briny as the Westphalia hams are. Blanch it in water only during two hours. Then drain it and put it into a braizing-pan, trimmed with thin slices 177 of veal at the bottom, seasoned with carrots, onions, parsley, bay-leaves, spices, &c. Pour over these two glasses of rich consommé and a bottle of Madeira, let it boil for about a couple of hours. When done, pour some of the liquor, after having skimmed off the fat, to reduce to an Espagnole, which is the proper sauce. N.B.—When the ham has boiled for two hours in the water, you must trim it instantly, before you put it with the wine, that you may send it up the moment you take it out of the braize. Reduce the liquor to make the glaze for it. No. 24.-Ham with Windsor Beans. Boil the ham as in No. 22, glaze it in the same manner, and serve under it Windsor beans, dressed as follows: Take some very small Windsor beans, boil them in water with a little salt; when boiled enough, take a little velouté, into which throw a half quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a little chopped parsley and savory, toss the beans in that sauce after having drained them, and dish the ham over the beans. No. 25.—A Roast Beef of Lamb. TAKE the saddle and the two legs of a lamb, cut on the middle of each leg a small rosette which is to be larded, as also the fillets. Roast the whole, and glaze the larded parts of a good colour. In France we serve it up with maître d'hôtel, but in England you send up with gravy under it, and mint sauce in a boat.* * The appellation of roast beef of lamb, must sound very extraordinary to an English ear, but the singularity of the name will be as nothing, when compared with the importance and necessity of the dish. At a very great dinner, it is essential to have some dish of magnitude. This one exhibits a very good appearance, and is truly excellent. I beg to recommend the trial of a maître d'hôtel under, as the butter, parsley, salt, pepper, and lemon- juice, agree well with the gravy of the meat; those who make the experi- ment will certainly approve of it. 78 No. 26.--Saddle of Mutton, or Roast Beef de Mouton. THE same preparation as above. This is sent up in particular cases only; when large dishes are wanted to cover a table of extraordinary magnitude, or to display the magnificence of the host. No. 27.-Saddle of Fawn, or Chevreuil. The same as No. 26. When larded, put it into a very large vessel with salt, pepper, and onions cut into slices, parsley, vinegar, spices, &c. Leave it to pickle for two or three days, taking great care to turn it frequently on every side. Then roast it, and serve with a poivrade under it. Mind that the fillets and both legs must be larded. No. 28.-The Haunch of Venison *. It was customary in France to cut off a small rosette from the leg, lard it, and then pickle it. In England it is customary to put it on the spit, then make some paste with flour and water only, and case the venison with it, secur- ing it with a few sheets of paper. It cannot be done thoroughly in less than four hours. It is usually served up with red currant jelly made hot with a little port wine. No. 29.-The Neck of Venison Is also to be roasted; but as it is not by far so thick as the haunch, the paste may be dispensed with, if you take great care to stop the spit in the under side of the neck. * The great point in roasting venison is to keep as much as possible the fat from melting ; the paste put over it, is to prevent the heat of the fire from wasting it. 79 No. 30.--Leg of Pork. Take the leg of a porket, and rub it over with salt, and put it well covered with salt also in a vessel, where it is to be left ten days. Then boil it in water, and send it up with green cabbage all round, and a peas-pudding which is made as follows : Take a quart of dry peas, wash them clean, wrap them up in a clean towel, and throw them into the same vessel as the leg. When the peas are done, strain them through a sieve, put in a good lump of butter, some salt, two eggs, and poach them, wrapped up in a clean towel, to make the pudding No.31.- Fowls à la Mirepoir. Take a couple of white fowls, which empty and truss with the legs bent down. Then make a mirepoix in the following manner: take a few slices of ham, some rasped bacon, butter, salt, bay-leaves, parsley, and lemon-juice : let the whole fry white on a very slow fire. When the rasped bacon and butter are well mixed together, put the fowls into an oval stew-pan trimmed with layers of bacon, which moisten with the mirepoir and a spoonful of broth, to prevent their frying. They must stew for an hour* on a very slow fire ; then drain them well, and serve up an Espagnole, or a ravigotte. N.B.-All voluminous entrées may be served as a relevé (remove); as for instance, a large noix of veal à la bour- geoise, a large carée of veal garnished with vegetables, and, in short, whatever is of too great a magnitude for an entrée. * You must however proportion the time to the size of the fowl. A small one will of course require less time, as a very large one would demand more. 80 No. 32.- Boiled Turkey with Oyster Sauce. This is to be boiled in the same manner as in No. 18. (See Oyster Sauce, No. 94, page 39.) Fish sent up with the Soups; or as a Remove of the Soup. No. 1.-Turbot and Lobster Sauce. . Choose a very white and fine skinned turbot; three quarters of an hour before dinner, or an hour if the turbot is very large, put it into boiling water and salt, with lemon slices over it; start it very quick, when it begins to boil draw the pan on the side of the fire. If the turbot boils too fast, it will be woolly; when you have ascertained with your knife that it is quite done, serve with green parsley on the broken places; and put round the dish some horse- radish scraped fine; serve the lobster sauce separately in a boat. Observe that you must make an aperture on the back of the turbot ; it will by that means be sooner done. Lobster Sauce. TAKE a hen lobster, cut the flesh into small dice, keep the eggs, which pound with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and strain through a hair sieve. You then make some melted butter; let it be rather thick : mix the eggs of the lobster with it, and throw into it a little essence of anchovies, a small quantity of cavice*, and a little cream. Take care that the sauce does not boil, for it would curdle, and lose its colour. * Mackay, in Piccadilly, sells the best, that is to say, the only genuine cavice. No. 2.--Broiled Turbot. MARINADE the turbot in sweet oil, salt, pepper, &c. and broil it on a slow fire: but it cannot be sufficiently done in this way in less than an hour. You must accordingly put it on a slow fire in due time. Then cover it with caper- sauce, which is to be made as follows: make some melted butter with a little glaze in it; when melted you throw in some essence of anchovies, capers, and vinegar. Then give a good seasoning, and mask, that is, pour the sauce over the fish. No. 3.—Boiled Salmon with Lobster Sauce. Put the salmon into boiling water, the same as the turbot, with salt only. Serve up with lobster sauce. No. 4.-Slices of Salmon broiled, with Caper Sauce. MARINADE your slices of salmon in oil and salt, broil them on a slow fire, and cover them with caper sauce. No.5.-Crimped Salmon. THE Thames produces the best salmon, but its price allows it to make its appearance at the table of the rich only, or at that of the extravagant. I have occasionally bought some at sixteen shillings per pound, which brings the price of one dish only to more than four pounds; it requires to be boiled quickly in salt and water. Serve up with lobster sauce. Fifteen minutes is sufficient to boil it. If you leave it too long in the water, it loses all its taste and colour. No. 6.-Salmon with Genévoise Sauce. Take a few shalots, some roots of parsley, a bunch ditto, seasoned with spices, thyme, bay-leaves, and a few carrots. Let the whole be lightly fried in a little butter. Then moisten with white wine (Madeira in preference). Let it boil for three-quarters of an hour. When the mari- nade is done, drain it through a tammy over the fish, which stew in that seasoning. As soon as the fish is sufficiently stewed, drain it, pick off all the scales, and return it into the vessel where it has already boiled, with some of the liquor to keep it hot, and mind to cover it to prevent it from drying. Now reduce some of the marinade with a good Espagnole, skim off all the fat, throw in a good piece of butter, well kneaded with flour, a little essence of an- chovies, the juice of a lemon, some Cayenne pepper, and a little salt. When you have drained the fish, cover it with the sauce, and send some likewise separately in a sauce- boat. N. B.-Salmon is also served au court bouillon. (See No. 27, page 89.) No. 7.—Cod with Oyster Sauce. Bon the fish in boiling water and plenty of salt; mind that if the fish is very large, you must not boil it too fast, as it then becomes woolly ; be careful before sending up, to ascertain with your knife whether it is well done. Serve with oyster sauce, as described No. 94, page 39. No. 8.—Slices of Crimp Cod. Boil the slices in the same manner as the fish when whole, and send them up with the same sauce ; mind that ten or fifteen minutes are sufficient to boil them. If you are obliged to wait after the fish is done, do not 83 leave it in the water, but take it out, and cover it with a clean cloth, and when you are to serve, dip it again into the warm water, and by this method you preserve its fla- vour, and are able to serve it hot. No. 9.-Crimp Cod with Cream Sauce. The same as above. The sauce à la crême is made in the following manner: take a quarter of a pound of butter, a little flour, some cream and a little salt, mix them toge- ther, and turn them on the fire, but do not let the sauce boil. Then cover the fish with it. N.B.-It is not served up so in England. No. 10.-The John Dorey, with Lobster Sauce. Boil it in the same manner as you do turbot. (See No. 1.) Send it up with lobster sauce. (See Lobster Sauce, No. 1, page 80.). No. 11.- Ditto, broiled with Anchovy Sauce. MARINADE in oil, and broil it in the same manner as you do turbot. The same sauce also, but without capers. No. 12.–Soles fried or boiled.* Boil the soles in boiling water with a little salt and vi- negar. Fried soles are to be covered with crumbs of bread, which is done in the following manner: break two eggs, * Observations on Fish in general.-It is necessary to have the fish well cleaned from all the blood, as the least redness left in it is very prejudicial. When the soles or whitings are large, it is natural to conceive that they will be longer frying or boiling than when small. Pay proper attention to the following observation : fish not well done is not eatable; and served up in that state, it would prejudice the company against the rest of your dinner By this want of attention, you lose all chance of pleasing your employer. G 2 84 which beat with a little salt : dip the soles into this ome- lette first, then into crumbs of bread. Fry the fish till it is of a fine colour. Shrimp sauce is made as follows : make some melted butter, with which mix a little essence of anchovies; throw in the shrimps, some cavice, and send up in a sauce-boat. .. No. 13.-Broiled Soles. Dip them into beaten eggs and crumbs of bread as above, but twice, using melted butter the second time. Broil them till they are of a light brown, and send up with shrimp sauce. No. 14.-Fried Whitings. * Take very fresh whitings, empty them well, and flay them. Then fasten the tail in the mouth with a small skewer, and dip the fish into an omelette, the same as the soles, then into crumbs of bread, and fry them till they are of a light brown. (See Shrimp Sauce, No. 12 above.) No. 15.- Fried Whitings, French fashion. Let the whitings be very fresh, and of an equal size : empty and scrape them well all over; then wash them in different waters. When quite clean, slit them equally on the back, and dip them into flour only. Next fry them in very hot oil, and over a large fire, otherwise when you put them in, they might cool the dripping. When of a light brown, send them up with shrimp sauce in a sauce- boat. No. 16.-Boiled Whitings. I THINK it useless to explain what is generally known, about boiling whitings, or fish of any other sort; I shall 85 therefore only mention a particular or two, which might, have escaped the memory of some of my brethren, who are desirous of displaying variety. When you want to boil the whitings, it is better not to open the belly, as they have a better appearance on the table. Mind to keep the skins whole, otherwise they will look very bad. No. 17.-Boiled Mackarel. Boil the mackarel as you would any other fish, and make a fennel sauce. The fennel is to be boiled in boiling water with salt; then it is to be chopped very fine, and thrown into melted butter; and serve up. N. B.—It is necessary to observe, that in England it is the custom to send up this fish with the fennel sauce, and garnished with fennel round. No. 18.-Broiled Mackarel. Pick out in preference mackarels with soft roes, which are the most delicate. Gut them, open them at the back, and marinade them in oil *, salt, and pepper. Next broil them, but unless they are done enough they are never good. The maître d'hôtel sauce is to be made separately, and served in a boat. Those who wish to have the mac- karel dressed in the French fashion, must have some par- sley chopped very fine, mix it with some fresh butter, salt, pepper, and lemon-juice, put this into the aperture of the mackarel's back, and when well broiled, serve very hot. The fillets of mackarel are to be cut from the bone, and trimmed of a good shape; put them into a sauté pan with some clarified butter and a little salt over them till dinner time, then put them to do into the oven, or on the stove; * The oil is to prevent the fish from drying, and sticking to the gridiron. 86 drain them upon a clean sheet of paper; dress them on the dish, and cover them with the maître d'hôtel sauce. N. B.-All other methods of dressing fish, will be found in the chapter of entrées. No. 19.-Boiled Haddocks. They are boiled in the same manner as soles, and served up with shrimp sauce. You may use haddocks for que- nelles, or filets, as well as whitings. No. 20.-Skate with Shrimp Sauce. SKATE must be boiled in water with a little salt and vinegar. The sauce is sent up separately in a boat. Skate may be served up also with caper sauce. No.21.-Boiled Pike with Dutch Sauce. Empty and scale the pike, wash it well after it has stood for an hour in cold water, to disgorge all the blood; then 30. boil it like any other fish, and serve up with a Dutch sauce. do No. 22.–Baked Pike. SCALE and empty the pike, without injuring the skin of . the belly, into which introduce a farce, which would drop out if not well secured. This farce is made of two handfuls of crumbs of bread, one handful of chopped beef-suet, a little lemon-peel chopped likewise, parsley ditto, salt, pep- per, and spices, two whole eggs, and a little fresh butter. Mix the whole together, and pound it in a mortar: then stuff the pike with it, and turn the pike with its tail fasten- ed in its mouth by means of a skewer; next dip it, first into an omelette, and then into crumbs of bread, and again into crumbs of bread; then baste it over with butter, before 87 you put it into the oven. If you are to send up two, one of them is to be made of a green colour, by means of a quantity of chopped parsley being mixed with the crumbs of bread. Mind the oven must be well heated. When the pikes are of a fine brown, cover them with paper, and let them be well done through. Serve up with a Dutch sauce. (No.68, page 30.) No. 23.—Pike à la Genévoise. Scale and wash the pike, and stew it in the same man- ner as the salmon, No. 6, page 82. No. 24.-Pike à la Polonoise. Wash the pike clean as above, then cut it into slices as if you wanted to make a matelotte; then fry in a quarter of a pound of butter the following herbs : a few carrots cut into dice, a few roots of parsley, a bunch of parsley and green onions, seasoned with mace, cloves, thyme, and bay- leaves, and a little ham. When fried, moisten the whole with a sufficient quantity of boiling water, and let it boil for one hour. When the marinade is well stewed, drain it through a silk sieve over the slices of pike, and let them stew, but not too long, for they would break. When the fish is done enough, take the liquor in which it has boiled, to moisten a béchamelle maigre, which you make in the fol- lowing manner: take a few bits of ham, some mushrooms, a bunch of parsley, and green onions, a small white onion, which fry white in butter, then put to it a large handful of flour, let it fry a little, and moisten with the liquor in which the pike has been boiling. Stir this with a wooden spoon; let it boil till the flour is well done, throw in a pint of thick cream, that has already been boiled, and reduce the whole, till the sauce is thick enough to cover the fish. Next take some turnips, cut into dice, that have been stewed in some 88 of the broth and sugar; drain them and throw them into the sauce, after the latter have been drained through a tammy. Drain the pike also, and cover it with the sauce, and the turnips. N. B.—This sauce requires a little sugar, on account of the turnips. Mind the sauce is well seasoned. No. 25.--Pike à la Chambord. Scale the pike, and let it disgorge in water for an hour or two. Then lard it in different places on one side of the back, and bake it in a marinade au vin, as you would do in the marinade à la Genévoise. That part which has been larded must stand uppermost, to prevent the part which is not larded from getting dry. Cover this with layers of ba- con, and be particular in basting frequently with the sea- soning. When the fish is done, glaze the parts that have been larded, and mask the others with a ragoût à la Cham- bord. Observe that the quenelles must be made of fish. The garnish is generally composed of large quenelles, small pigeons (squab pigeons,) larded sweetbread of lamb, &c, Take a little of the marinade, skim off the fat, reduce it nearly to glaze, and mix it with the Chambord, which is no other thing than a financière with the addition of a little essence of anchovies, the juice of a lemon, and a little Cayenne. No. 26.—Pike au Court Bouillon. Take a large pike, which empty, without scaling it. Then wash it clean, and drain it. Next boil some vinegar, and when boiling, pour it over the scales of the pike, which will turn blue, and the scales will curl up if the vinegar is hot enough. Wrap the pike up in a towel, and let it boil in the court bouillon, which is prepared as follows: * (No. 27.) * If you should be in the country, where there is plenty of pike, you may make fillets of them, for they are as good as any other fish for that. They No. 27.—Court Bouillon for Fish au bleu. Take two of each of the following roots: carrots, onions, roots of parsley, leaves of ditto, thyme, bay-leaves, mace, cloves, spices, which fry in butter without their getting too much colour. Then pour into it two bottles of white and a bottle of red wine with salt, &c. This marinade being stewed properly, will serve several times for stewing the fish, but remember each time you use it, it requires a little water ; besides, it would become too strong in the course of time. Take some of that liquor to make the sauce matelotte, Genévoise, &c. &c. No. 28.-Trout à la Genévoise. This fish is the most delicate that can be prepared à la Genévoise. The marinade to be made the same as in No. 6, for salmon, page 82; or above, No. 27. No. 29.- Roast Sturgeon. Spit the sturgeon: make a marinade with white wine, with which baste the sturgeon. Next take some of the marinade that you reduce with four large spoonfuls of good Espagnole sauce. When the sauce is of a good consist- ency, put about half a pound of fresh butter kneaded with a little flour, salt, and Cayenne pepper, the juice of a lemon, and a spoonful of essence of anchovies. If you have no Espagnole, make a little roux, with flour and butter, and moisten with the marinade ; add to it a little glaze. must be dressed in the same way as fillets of soles or whitings, à la maître 4'hôtel, or ravigotte, or à la orlies. No. 30.- Baked Sturgeon. MAKE a marinade the same as above, and bake the fish with that marinade. The sauce as above. No. 31.–Sturgeon plain boiled. Boil the sturgeon as you would any other fish. Send up with Dutch sauce; mind that this fish is very firm, and requires more time to boil. No.32.-Carp au bleu, without Sauce. Take a fine carp, which empty without injuring the belly. Take off the gills, and after you have washed it clean, pour over it some boiling vinegar, by which means the scales will curl up, and the fish get a blue colour. Then wrap the carp up in a towel, and stew it in the court bouillon. (See No. 27, page 89.) No. 33.-Carp farci, baked. Take a fine carp, scale and empty it. Then detach one side of the fillets, without injuring the head. Take this flesh, and that of another carp of a smaller size, and make a farce in the following manner : take the crumb of two penny loaves, soak it in cream or milk, then squeeze it, and put it into a mortar, with an equal quantity of the flesh of the carp, nearly as much fresh butter, with a little chop- ped parsley, a few mushrooms fried in a little butter, salt, pepper, and spice. When all these ingredients have been pounded in a mortar, add a couple of eggs, and continue pounding for a long time, then take a little, which throw into boiling water, and taste. If it be too delicate, which means too thin, add one egg more, pound it again, and 91 then rub it through the sieve à quenelles; and fill up the cavities in the fillets of the carp, giving it the shape of a fish. Take care however to give it a good shape. Next let it be done thoroughly in the oven, and serve it with caper sauce under it. No. 34.-Carp, Sauce à Matelotte. Take a fine carp, scale and empty it.' Then let it stew in wine enough to cover it. After having drained it well, take that wine to make the sauces, and send it up covered with sauce à matelotte. (See Sauces.) No: 35.-Broiled Carp, with Caper Sauce. Scale and empty the carp. Wash it, and wipe it quite dry. Then marinade it in oil, salt, and pepper ; broil it and send it up with caper sauce as follows: Ta No. 36.-Caper Sauce for Fish. Take some melted butter, into which throw a small bit of glaze, and when the sauce is in a state of readiness, throw into it some choice capers, salt and pepper, and a spoonful of essence of anchovies. No. 37.–Tench. Tench, in England, are eaten boiled, with a Dutch sauce, yet they are far better en matelotte. No.38.—Perch. THESE likewise are sent up boiled, with Dutch sauce; but you will find a different way to dress them in the following entrée. 92 No. 39.-Perch au Water-Suchet. Scale and clean the perch as much as possible ; then cut some parsley roots into small fillets; put them to boil with some parsley tied up in a bundle, and some salt, in a quantity of water sufficient to boil the perch. When the roots are done, put in the perch; ten minutes are sufficient. Have some parsley leaves blanched very green in salt and water, drain the perch from all the liquid, and put it into a tureen ; put the roots and parsley leaves to it, and throw the liquor over it through a silk sieve. Send up slices of bread and butter in a separate plate. 93 CHAP. IV. FARCES, OR FORCED MEAT. No. 1.- Quenelles of Veal. Take the fleshy part of veal, cut it into slices, and scrape it with your knife till you have got off all the meat without the sinews. About half a pound of this rasped meat is sufficient for an entrée. Boil either in your stock-pot, or in plain water, a calf's udder. When it is cold, trim all the upper part, cut it into small pieces, and pound it in a mortar till it can be rubbed through a sieve. All that part which has been thus strained through the sieve, you make into a ball of the same size as your meat, which you have also rolled into a ball; you then make a panade in the following manner: you must have three balls, one of udder, one of meat, and one of panada. Panadas for Farces in general. Soak in milk the crumb of two penny rolls for about half an hour; then take it out, and squeeze it to draw out all the milk. Put that crumb into a stew-pan with a little béchamelle, a spoonful of consommé, some fine herbs, that is to say, a little parsley, and a few mushrooms, and if approved of, a few shalots or very small green onions chopped very fine. Stew these herbs in a little butter for a moment, to take away their rawness. Then set them to reduce with the panada, which you must keep stirring con- stantly with a wooden spoon. When the panada begins to 94 get dry in the stew-pan, put in a small lump of butter, which helps to dry the panada without its sticking to the pan. When it is quite firm, take it off the fire, and mix with it the yolks of two eggs. Then let it cool, to use it when wanted. The panada must always be prepared before- hand, in order to have it cold, for it cannot be used when hot, or even warm. When the panada is cold, roll it into balls, the same as the two other articles, but let the balls be all of a size. Pound the whole in a mortar as long as pos- sible, for, the more quenelles are pounded, the more delicate they are. Then break two eggs, whites and yolks together, which you pound likewise; now season with pepper, salt, and spices in powder; when the whole is well mixed to- gether, try a small bit, which you roll with a little flour; then poach it in boiling water with a little salt. If it should not be firm enough, put another egg without beat- ing the white, which only makes the quenelles flat, and hollow inside. When you have made the farce, rub it through a sieve. If you are in a hurry, you may use only crumb of bread soaked in milk without panada, but the panada is most tasty. Many persons who use the same ingredients as I do, but not in the same way, will perhaps feel inclined to censure my method ; yet such as will adhere to it, will derive great benefit from it; the materials are to be well pounded and seasoned. No. 2.—Quenelles of Fowl. The quenelles of fowl are made with the fillets only, all other parts being too full of sinews. Take the fillets of young chickens, for you must never use those of an old fowl, as they are tough and thready. Veal when very white, is much better than tough fowl. Cut this meat into dice and pound it in a mortar, till it can be rubbed through a 95 sieve. Next make three balls, as you have done for the quenelles of veal. Then pound, season, and try them in the same manner as directed above, as they must be made firm, or soft, according to the use they are intended for. Quenelle au consommé clarifié, for instance, must be very delicate and soft. If they are to be served in a ragoût, either white or brown, they must be made firmer, and so on. The farce à quenelles is much used in cookery. With it alone you. may make various good entrées; and it serves besides to garnish ragoûts, matelottes, godards, chambords, pâtés chauds, &c. &c. Observe particularly, that when you use the quenelles very small, the farce may be very delicate, but if you make any boudin, or turban, or any other different kind of entrée, in proportion to the size of it you must keep the quenelles firm, which depends solely on their having more eggs; this addition makes the furce softer when raw, but increases its firmness when poached. No.3.—Quenelles of Rabbits. The best quenelles are made with fillets only. If you are engaged by a nobleman who has game in abundance, take the fillets for the quenelles; with the legs and shoulders make a giblotte, or a pie English fashion for the servants, and with the remaining bony parts you make the consommé. When you lift up the fillets, you must leave the sinews about the carcass. Pound the meat, and make a panada as for other quenelles. Take a calf's udder likewise, which prepare as directed above. Quenelles differ in flavour and appellation, only in consequence of the meat of which they are made. Remember that the panada and calf's udder are indispensable articles. Follow what I have prescribed at No. 1, for the quenelles of veal, which I have mentioned the first, as being more frequently used than all others. 96 They are very good and likewise very cheap, as veal is always requisite for sauces and broth. Half or three quarters of a pound of veal is no great drawback, neither can it weaken the sauce, although of service to make seve- ral good entrées, as will be shewn hereafter. No. 4.--Quenelles of Partridges. Take the fillets of three young partridges. Take off the skin and the sinews ; cut the meat into dice, and pound it as directed above; rub this through a sieve. Scrape the bottom of the sieve, and make a ball of the same size as those of the panada and udder. When you have mixed the three ingredients together, add two whole eggs, and the yolk of a third. Then season with pepper, salt, and all- spice. Try the quenelle as directed above. This furce will serve for different entrées, which are all to be found under their respective names in the article partridges. No. 5.-Farce of Fowl à la Cream. Make use of the panada and udder as mentioned above, but no herbs are required in the panada, instead of which put a little cream. Take the white flesh of a fowl that has been roasted ; take off the skin and sinews, chop the meat very fine; then pound it as you do for other farces. Put in the yolks of four eggs, after the farce has been pounded, and well seasoned. Beat the whites of the eggs, and mix them gently with the rest, stirring the whole with a wooden spoon. Use this farce when requisite. It is generally used for the fowl à la creum; if you have in the larder a cold roast fowl, you may make that entrée with it; empty the fowl, by cutting a square hole in the breast, the white flesh you make the farce with, and then replace it in the cavity, as directed farther on. 97 . No. 6.-Farce à Gratin of Partridges, Rabbits, and Fowls. The farce à gratin is made in the same manner as the farce à la Crême, with the only difference, that you must not beat the whites of the eggs, and that this farce is to be kept delicate and soft. Take the flesh of roasted chickens, or young rabbits, or young partridges, &c. The manner of using it is explained in its proper place. This farce is intended for the stuffing of such articles as are not to be put on the fire again; such as calf's ears, calf's feet, sheep's trotters en canelon, and risolles, as also quails, tongues, and larks au gratin. There are some gratins that are also émincés, and are treated of in their proper places. Observe that this farce is indispensable in good cookery. No.7.-Boudins à la Richelieu. As soon as you have rubbed the farce à quenelles through a sieve, have some onions cut sideways into dices or filets, and that have been sweated white, which you must mix with the farce before it gets firm, to prevent the onion from breaking. The boudins à la Richelieu, are a farce à quenelles either of fowl or of veal; they are never made of game*. No. 8.-Boudins à la Sefton Are made with quenelles the same as those above, only instead of onions sliced sideways, put mushrooms, sliced in the same manner, and sweated white in butter. When you drain your mushrooms, preserve the liquor, which * The boudins à la Richelieu, are most excellent eating. In France, they are always ordered for delicate constitutions ; the general observation, that French cookery is too rich, is here particularly out of place, for there is neither fat nor sinews, and very little seasoning in this dish, and it is of very easy digestion. 98 pour into the sauce that serves for the boudins. The flavour of mushrooms must prevail in these boudins, the same as that of onions prevails in the boudins à la Richelieu. This entrée is very preferable to that with onions. No. 9.—Quenelles of Whitings. Take the fillets of four whitings. If in a Roman Catholic family on a fast-day, instead of an udder use butter. The panada however is far superior. In either case you must soak the crumb of bread in some good milk, and squeeze it well in a towel. Do not put the same quantity of butter as you would of udder, as the butter would not remain in. In every other respect these are made like other quenelles. No. 10.--Farce of Carp. TAKE the flesh of two carps, which you must chop, pound, and rub through a sieve. Soak some crumb of bread in some good milk ; have a few mushrooms and a little parsley chopped very fine. Set the herbs to sweat in a little butter, over a very slow fire. Then let them cool in a hair sieve. Next put the bread, that has been soaked and squeezed properly, with the flesh of the carp that has been rubbed through a tammy, into a mortar, with a lump of butter of about the same bulk as the flesh of the carp, and season with pepper, salt, allspice, three or four eggs, whites and yolks together: farces with butter, require more eggs than those with udder. Yet before you put more than three, you must try to roll some of the farce in a little flour, and to poach it in boiling water. You then taste, and add to the seasoning if required. When completely done, rub it through a sieve, and let it cool in the larder, and use it when you have occasion. This farce is used for petty patties of carp. We also make quenelles for matelottes, &c. 99 No. 11.-Farce de Godiveau, for the Pâtés à la Mazarine, &c. Take three-quarters of a pound of very white veal, a pound and a half of beef suet, which you strip of all the sinewy skins; chop the suet separately, and the veal the same. When you have chopped them both, take some herbs, such as parsley, shalots and mushrooms, which chop also very fine, and sweat in a little butter; mix the whole together, veal, suet, and herbs, and season with pepper and salt. Then chop them again. Break two eggs, yolks and whites, and if the godiveau appears to be well mixed, put a little piece into the oven in a small tart mould. If it rises well, and is properly seasoned, that is a sign of its being done: if not, put it into the mortar again with a little milk or water. By dint of great practice, you acquire the facility of observing accidents which cannot be properly explained. In the summer season, for instance, the suet being very soft, you find more difficulty in using it. If you have any good ice, put some small pieces into the godiveau, to make the meat and suet combine the better. No. 12.-Green Marbled Farce. MAKE a farce à quenelles as directed above. Take part of it, and mix it with a verd de persil (See Sauces) which you have drained, in order that the water may not make the farce thinner. If you wish to use it quite of a green colour, you mix it with the whole; but if you intend to marble either galantines, or fillets of soles, you put on slightly a part white, and another green. Then roll and poach them, and when they are cut they look like marble. It is easy to conceive, that if you wish to make it marble-like, you must H 2 100 alternate the green and white by laying on the green at occasional distances. No. 13.-Red Marbled Farce. This is much the same as the former. In France we make use of butter of craw-fish, for fowls à la Cardinale, or red and marbled farces. In England the eggs of lob- sters are more frequently used, which are not amiss for farces of fish, and fowls, &c. No. 14.--Stuffing for Hare or Turkey. Take half a pound of beef suet, chopped very fine, some parsley, a little thyme, pepper, salt, the same quan- tity of crumbs of bread as of suet, lemon-peel chopped very fine, an egg or two, and mix the whole with a little milk. It would not be amiss to pound the whole in a mor- tar for a short time. This farce may be used with baked pike, or with either roasted or boiled turkey, roasted hare, &c.; in short, with all such articles as will be mentioned in this work. No. 15.-- Farce for Pies. TAKE an equal quantity of veal and of fat bacon; chop them together, season them with pepper, salt, and allspice, but no herbs, which only prevent the pie from keeping. If it is however to be eaten immediately, you may intro- duce some savory herbs, a little chopped parsley, and sha- lots, and make a pâté aux truffles, or chop some truffles, which mix with the farce. In pies made of game you may chop some ham, but in those made of fowl, the saltpetre gives a red colour to the meat, which can never look too white. 101 No. 16.-Farce for Sausages. SAUSAges are composed of only hog's flesh; but as it is not amiss to stuff turkeys with this farce, I have thought proper to mention it here. Take all the tender parts of the meat, the sinews being left aside when the hams and breasts are cured, which will be found treated of in a se- parate article. Cut the whole of the meat into small dice; then cut nearly about the same quantity of fat into small dice also. Chop and mix them very fine together, fat and lean; season with pepper and salt, allspice, and a little mint chopped very fine. All these ingredients give the sausages a very pleasing taste. When you use the sau- sages directly, you must moisten them with a little water or milk; they will keep two or three days, but then they must not be moistened. They are however not so good when kept. 102 CHAP. V. ENTREES OF BUTCHER'S MEAT. BEEF. No. 1.-Blanquette of Palates of Beef. TAKE six or eight palates of beef, rub them over with salt, and stew them in a blanc, till you can take off the upper skin. When the palates are thus skinned and done, cut them into the size of shilling pieces, and throw them into the sauce à blanquette, which is a sauce tournée re- duced, that you have thickened. The palates of beef en blanquette are sent up to table either in casserole au ris, or a vol au vent, or a timbal. No. 2.- Blanquette of Palates of Beef with Peas, This is made nearly in the same manner as that above; but previously to putting in the thickening, you take a few spoonfuls of sweated peas intended for entremets, and reduce them with the sauce, that it may give the savour of the peas. Add a little salt and sugar. Entrées of this sort should be sweet, and not briny, No. 3.-Blanquette of Palates of Beef with Cucumbers. PREPARE the palates of beef as for other blanquettes, Pare some cucumbers and cut them into the size of shilling pieces. Keep the parings to make a purée, which you throw into the sauce, to give it a taste of the cucumbers. 103 Put the cucumbers into a good sauce tournée, a little su- gar, and let them do; then drain them, and reduce the sauce separately. When done, and the sauce is thickened, put the liaison to it*; throw into the sauce the cucumbers that are entire, and the palates of beef, and serve up in a deep dish, or in a vol au vent. No. 4.- Blanquette of Palates of Beef with Truffles. The palates to be prepared as above. Only in this case cut the truffles into the size of shilling pieces, and put them in butter and salt. Sautez them on a brisk fire, till done. Let them have one single boil in the sauce, be- fore you throw in the thickening, then mix the palates and truffles together. No.5.-Attelets of Palates of Beef à l’Italienne. Palates of beef are always prepared as directed at No. 1. The only difference consists in the cutting of them, and in the sauce with which they are sent up to table. Take some sauce d'attelets (See Sauces), and after having cut the palates into square pieces of whatever di- mension you may think proper, let them cool in the sauce. When quite cold, run a silver skewer through them in a row, and cover all the meat with some of the sauce. Make the attelets as smooth as possible with your knife. Next dip them into crumbs of bread, and make them quite square. Mind that both extremities are well covered with the crumbs; dip them a second time, into an omelette ; and again into the crumbs of bread; let both ends of the skewers be remarkably clean. Then fry the palates to a fine brown colour, and serve them up with a brown Italian sauce under it. * As the cucumbers will always thin the sauce, do not put them in till you serve up. This entrée requires a little sugar. 104. No.6.–Palates of Beef au gratin, otherwise en Paupiette. Have a good farce à quenelles ready; cut the palates in slices of about an inch broad ; spread some of the farce over the rough side of them; then put part of the farce into the middle of the dish, and erect all the slices of pa- lates in the shape of a turban, after having stuffed and rolled them. Cover the whole with layers of bacon, and put the dish into the oven, without allowing the contents to get brown. When the farce is done thoroughly, drain all the fat, take off the layers of bacon, clean the dish well, and mask the meat with a thick Espagnole, well seasoned. No. 7.-Miroton of Palates of Beef, à la Ude. Use a cutter both for the palates of beef and truffles, which are thus made into pieces of an equal size. Dress them en miroton. Then take a sufficient quantity of mush- rooms, also of the same size, to make a border round the dish : put in the middle a salpicon of truffles, mushrooms, and palates of beef, and sauce the miroton with a pretty thick Espagnole. Before you use any of the preceding articles, they must be all done, and then put a palate and then a truffle alternately, to the very top of it. Keep the dish covered very warm, to prevent its drying. • No. 8.-Croquettes of Palates of Beef au velouté. Take all the trimming from the blanquettes, mirotons, &c. and chop them very fine. Have some mushrooms cut into small dice, which fry white in a little butter. Then moisten with a little thin sauce tournée, and let them boil gently on the corner of the stove, that you may skim off the grease. Next reduce this sauce with a pint of cream : when it is got thick enough, throw the palates into the sauce, and 105 let them boil for a moment, that they may taste of the sauce. Let this preparation cool in a plate. When quite cold, roll the whole into croquettes, either round or oval; dip them once into crumbs of bread, then into an omelette, and into crumbs of bread again : then fry them till they are of a fine brown, and serve up with fried parsley. If you should not have quite enough of the palates, a sweet- bread, or the trimmings of fowl, will match the other ingre- dients very well. It is not extravagance in cookery that makes it better; you may give a capital dinner at a small expense, if you employ every thing in its proper place. No. 9:— Beef's Tongue, Sauce hachée. Take a tongue that is quite fresh; let it disgorge, blanch it to take away the tripy taste it may have retained ; then stew it in a good braize *. When done, flay it, cut it in two, spread it open, and mask with the sauce hachée. (See Sauces.) This is but a very common entrée. No. 10.--Miroton of Tongue with Turnips. Let the tongue be stewed as above, and then get cold. Next cut it into scollops, dish it en miroton, and place the dish covered at the mouth of the oven. A short time be- fore you send it up to table, glaze it with a light glaze, and pour into the middle l'haricot brun. (See Sauces.) No. 11.—Miroton of Tongue with Sorrel Sauce. PREPARE the tongue as above, No. 10, only glaze it a little more, and lay thicker. Pour into the middle the purée of sorrel. * You must remember that every thing which is called braize, must be seasoned with carrot, onion, parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, and clove. (See Braize.) 106 No. 12.—Miroton of Tongue with Spinach. The same preparation as above, only use spinach, and let them be richer and more liquid than for an entremets. It is necessary to observe, that when spinach is used as sauce, it must be more tasty and liquid, than when it is used for garnishing round a tongue or ham. When for sauce, put a little more broth and seasoning, as it is to give taste and relish to whatever it is used with. No. 13.--Miroton of Red Tongue with mashed Turnips. This is not a French entrée; I only mention it here, because I have seen it sent up to well-known epicures. Take the remnants of a tongue à l'écarlate that is quite cold ; cut it into round slices, dress it in a dish, and put it into the oven for a moment. Then glaze it, and serve it up with mashed turnips in the middle. No. 14.- Pickled Tongue, glazed and bigarrée. This is a remove which is frequently used for family dinners. Take a large tongue à l'écarlate, boil it well, then flay it, glaze it, and, after having made it look quite neat, send it up with mashed turnips on one side, and mashed carrots, or carrots and spinach, on the other, &c. Mashed Turnips or Carrots.-Peel some turnips, wash and boil them with salt and water ; when properly done, press all the water out, and pound them well in a mortar, then put them into a stew-pan with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a little salt, half a pint of cream, and a tea- spoonful of flour to prevent the water from running out; 107 mix and warm very hot, and use them when wanted. The same method exactly for carrots. Never rub them through a sieve, for they then become a purée, and not a mash. No. 15.- Filets Mignons of Beef sautés à la Lyonaise. Take the inside fillet of a sirloin of beef, and scollop it of about the size of the palm of your hand. Mark them in clarified butter, with a little salt and pepper, in a sautez pan ; when dinner-time is come, sautez them and turn them over; when done on both sides, drain the butter and put a little glaze in its stead. Keep stirring the meat in the glaze with a little lemon-juice, and a small bit of fresh butter. Dish it en miroton, and pour the Lyonaise in the sautez pan with the glaze. When you have mixed that well, put that sauce in the middle of the filets mignons, and serve up quite hot. You must give that dish only when you have a rump of beef; the small fillet left to that part is sufficient; it would be extravagant to spoil a sirloin. No. 16.—Filet of Beef marinaded à la broche. TAKE the same part as above, and take off the sinews. Then lard it, and pickle it raw with an onion and a shalot cut into slices, a little parsley, salt, pepper, vinegar, &c.; let it marinade one day. Then roast and glaze it. Serve up with a poivrade. This dish is dressed in this way for those who like vinegar. You must sometimes omit the vinegar, and put instead of it a little sweet oil; it prevents the meat from drying, and makes it tender. No. 17.--Ox-Tail in Hochepot. The beef-tail being a very plain and common dish, is seldom sent up otherwise than as a tureen. (See No. 19, Deep Dishes, page 66.) 108 No. 18.—Miroton of Beef. When you have some cold rump of beef left, cut it neatly into slices, and put them into a sauté pan, with a little Es- pagnole, or brown Italienne, some salt and pepper, and a little broth. Give them a few boils, and serve up quite hot. No. 19.-Kidney of Beef with Champaign Wine. TAKE some kidneys that are of a nice light colour; take off a little of the fat, mince it, and fry it white in a pan with a little chopped parsley, shalots, salt, pepper, &c. When it is done enough, powder a little flour over it, and moisten with a glass of Champaign, and two or three spoonfuls of Espagnole. It must not boil any more, for it would get hard. But you must keep it hot, and serve it up the same. We send this entrée up to table for breakfast only, No. 20.-Beef-Steaks with Potatoes, French fashion. Take some thin slices of rump of beef, flatten them, and season them with a little salt, pepper, &c. Dip those slices into a little butter, that the gravy may not drop out whilst broiling. You must have some parsley chopped very fine with butter, salt, pepper, lemon, &c. When your beef- steaks are done, put the above ingredients under the steaks, and all round fried potatoes of a fine brown colour. Beef- steaks are also served with oysters. (See Sauces.) No. 21.-Sirloin of Beef braized, TAKE that part of the beef that is between the rump and the first ribs. Turn it over on the filet mignon, and dress it in a good shape. Mark it in a large braizing-pan with planty of parings of veal, a large piece of the breast part of bacon, a small bit of ham, a few carrots, onions, some par- 109 sley-roots, a bunch of parsley and green onions, seasoned with thyme, bay-leaves, spices of all sorts, and a ladleful of good broth. Cover the sirloin with bacon first, and then with two sheets of white paper, to prevent the fire that you are to lay over it making the meat look brown. When you have closed the braizing-pan, stick some slips of paper all round, and stew the sirloin for four hours on a very slow fire. A moderately heated oven would be preferable. The braizing-pan must have boiled before you put it into the oven. (See Sauces for the Godard.) You are to garnish with pigeons à la gautier, large quenelles, larded sweet- breads, and especially large cocks’-combs, which slit into the fillet, when you are going to send up to table. No. 22.--Roast Beef. In my former edition, I said very little on this subject, but I consider it now a part of my work that requires much attention, as well for the cooking part, as for the manner in which it is sometimes spoiled at table. I recommend to the cook, first to chuse a well-covered sirloin, not weighing more than twenty or twenty-four pounds; a larger piece is never well roasted, the time which it requires causes the outside to be too much done, while the middle remains quite raw. The meat must be covered for one hour only with paper, to prevent its taking too much colour; it is necessary to ob- serve, that for large pieces the fire must not be too sharp, or the meat will be burned, before it is warm through ; just before you take it off the spit, spread some fine salt over it, and send it up very hot with gravy only. This joint is often spoiled for the next day's use, by an injudicious mode of carving. If you object to the outside cut, take the brown off, and help yourself to the next; by thus cutting it only on one side, you preserve the gravy in the meat, and the goodly appearance likewise: by cutting it, on the contrary, 110 down the middle of the joint, all the gravy runs out, and it. remains dry and void of substance, besides exhibiting a most unseemly aspect when brought to table a second time. No. 23.—Brisket of Beef, à la Flamande. See Removes, No. 3, page 68. No. 24.-Rib of Beef braized en Hochepot. Take about four ribs of beef : pare the thick part, lard them with thick bacon, and braize them in the same man- ner as you would do the rump. Send up with glazed onions, or cabbages, or hochepot, or a sauce hachée, round it. Observe that you are not to detach the ribs, which are to be served flat, as if they were mutton chops. No. 25.-L'Entre-Côte of Beef broiled, Sauce hachée. TAKE the slice which lies between two ribs of beef, flat- ten it well in a good shape, and broil it. If it be thick, you must have a gentle fire to heat it through; if it be thin, the fire must be brisk, or it will not get a good colour, nor eat so well. The entre-côte is a most tender eating. 111 : | CHAP. VI. ENTREES OF MUTTON ENTRÉES OF MUTTON. MUTTON AND L AMB. It is necessary to observe to the junior cook, that almost every thing which is made with mutton, may be made also with lamb ; with this only difference, that lamb being the tenderest meat, it requires less doing. If you make haricot of lamb, you must sautez the cutlets first, and then boil them in the sauce of haricot (See Haricot): the epigram is always made with lamb, as it requires à blanquette in the middle of the chop. Mutton is too highly coloured for it. No. 1.-Mutton Cutlets à la Soubise. Take a neck of mutton, and cut the chops one by one without flattening them; cut off some of the flat bone at the extremity of the chops. Put them into a stew-pan with all the parings, together with the parings of the onions for the soubise. Season the whole well with carrots, a bunch of parsley and green onions, salt, and a very small quantity of spice, &c. throw in four or five spoonfuls of good broth, to braize them. When done, drain them, and let them cool. Strain the liquor through a silk sieve. Then reduce it to glaze. Next pare the chops nicely, and put them with the glaze. This being completed, dish them en miroton, and pour the soubise into the middle. 112 Some persons take two necks of mutton, cut two bones to each chop, lard them with bacon, and braize them as above; but mutton being in general fat, is better without being larded. With regard to the two bones, you must flatten them as above, for if they are too thick you cannot dish them well. Another, and a much better Method of preparing Cutlets à la Soubise. Cut the mutton chops a little thicker than when you wish to broil them. Pare them nicely, and put them into a stew-pan, where they may all lie flat. Put an onion or two, a few carrots tournées, a little salt, a bundle of parsley and green onions seasoned, four or five spoonfuls of good consommé*, and sweat the whole till it is entirely done. Then take out the roots, put in a little glaze, and reduce over a large fire. When entirely à glace, lay them on a cover to drain the fat, and serve up before they can get dry. This method is preferable to the other. You must not in either case lard your chops with bacon. No. 2.-Cutlets en Haricot Vierge. PREPARE the chops as above. Braize them in the same manner. As many people object to onions, serve them with a haricot vierge instead of a soubise. (See Sauces.) No.3.-Cutlets à la Minute. Take the best part of a neck of mutton that has been kept for a while. Cut the chops one by one, and pare them as nicely as you can. Season them with pepper and salt, * Be on your guard against using old broth: if you have no fresh broth, put water. Old broth turns the cutlets red. 113 dip them into some clarified butter, and broil them over a brisk fire. Serve up with a very strong gravy of veal, well seasoned. Observe that cutlets à-la-minute, to be good, must not be too much trimmed, and you must leave a little fat to them; they are dipped in clarified butter to prevent them from drying. No. 4.-Cutlets à l’Italienne Are prepared as above, but are to be dipped into crumbs of bread. After having dipped them once into the crumbs, repeat the same operation in clarified butter and crumbs a second time, and then broil them. Lastly, press them between two sheets of brown paper to take out all the fat, and serve up with brown Italienne. (See Sauces.) No. 5.-Lamb Cutlet Epigram. These are nearly the same as in No.3. Only you serve in the middle a blanquette of lamb, cut out of the shoulder or any other part of the lamb. : : No.6.-Cutlets en Haricot brun. Many people braize and glaze them, and put the haricot brun in the middle, but I will explain the manner in which they are to be prepared, in order that they may taste of the turnips. Cut the chops as in No. 1, pare the bones nicely, then fry them in a little butter, of a nice brown colour, drain the butter, and make a roux very blond; that is to say, put into the same stew-pan a small bit of fresh butter and a spoonful of fine flour; put this over a moderate fire, and turn it with a wooden spoon till the flour is of a very nice brown colour, then moisten with some gravy of veal of a fine colour, well seasoned. When the sauce boils, throw in the chops, and the trimmings of the turnips ; let them stew gently on the corner of the stove. Skim the sauce 114 frequently: when the chops are nearly done, drain them in a clean stew-pan. Have ready some turnips turned in whatever shape you think proper, but they must not be too small for this entrée; drain the sauce through a tammy over the turnips and chops, which stew in this sauce with a little sugar; continue skimming frequently. When the turnips are done as well as the chops, keep them warm au bain marie, till you serve up. N.B.—Some people fry the turnips in butter to make them brown, which is useless, as they will look very well, provided the gravy of veal is of a fine colour. No. 7.-Cutlets sautées à l’Essence. Pare them as in No.3, mark them in a cutlet-pan with clarified butter. Sautez them over a brisk equal fire. Drain part of the butter; put one or two spoonfuls of Espagnole and a little glaze into the cutlet-pan with the juice of a lemon. Keep stirring the whole over the fire, but do not let it boil. Dish and send up instantly N.B.-If these are kept waiting, they are spoiled. They are fine eating however for such people as like their meat under-done; but if they are over-done, they have no more savour than cork or leather. No. 8.-Cotelettes à la Maintenon. PARE the chops as in No. 3. Chop fine some sweet herbs, such as parsley, shalots, and mushrooms, which fry in a little butter. When they are done, fry the chops a little in that seasoning till nearly done, let them cool, then wrap them up in paper, and broil them over a slow fire. This entrée I cannot much approve of, on account of the greased paper which is to appear at the table. But some persons like them. 115 No. 9. The inside Filets à la Maréchale. The inside fillets of mutton are to be taken off from under the sirloin ; take off all the fat; flatten the fillets with the handle of your knife, and dip them into crumbs of bread and salt and pepper, and then into clarified but- ter, and crumbs again. After having broiled them of a fine colour, sauce them with the maréchale. The maréchale for this is tarragon vinegar reduced in a small stew-pan, and moistened with three or four spoonfuls of Espagnole sauce, and a little Cayenne pepper. No. 10.-The inside Fillets marinaded. You must have the fillets of four saddles of mutton, which of course produce eight filets mignons. Lard them in the same manner as fillets of rabbits, next pickle them in a marinade crue, such as thyme, parsley, bay-leaves, onions, salt, pepper and vinegar. When they have been lying for two or three hours in this marinade, mark them in a sauté-pan between two layers of bacon, and bake them. When done, glaze them, and serve them up with a poivrade under them. Observe, that this entrée is only to be served in a family, where you give saddle of mutton to the nursery, or to the servants; in that case, you take off the inside fillets. You may leave the fat to the saddle, and only take off the fillets. No. 11. The inside Fillets with purée of Sorrel. These are to be pared and larded as in No.10. Mark them as a fricandeau, by which is meant, that you must make a bed of roots in a stew-pan; these you cover with a second bed of layers of bacon; then lay the larded fil- lets on the bacon, and powder them over with a little salt. 1 2 116 Moisten but little. They only require one hour to be done, between two fires, one on the top, another at bottom. When they are done, reduce the liquor and put the fillets into that glaze. Serve under them the purée of sorrel. N.B.—They are also sent up with endive, or with the Soubise, or Macédoine. No. 12.--Necks of Mutton en Aigrettes. Take the best part of two necks of mutton, pare the fiillet, lard it as a fricandeau ; take off the upper skin of the flank: then take a piece of cold veal, or a piece of cold bouilli beef, which cut round, a little larger than your hand. Wrap this beef up in a very thin layer of bacon. Next turn the mutton with the larded fillets downwards, and the fat upwards : mark this in the same manner as the inside fillets with vegetables. When they are done, glaze them of a nice colour, then take out the beef and the bacon, and in the middle pour a Macédoine, or any other sauce. No. 13.—The Neck of Mutton with Parsley. Take the same two parts as above; after having taken off the bones, take off also the sinews, as if you were going to lard them. Have in readiness a few branches of parsley, quite green, with which you lard the fillet only, but very thick, for when well done the parsley is diminished consi- derably, as it gets dry. Before you split the mutton it must be marinaded in oil and salt, an onion cut into slices, &c. The oil makes the parsley crisp, and preserves its green colour. Send up with a poivrade, or an Espagnole. (See Sauces.) No. 14.--Les . Carbonades à la Jardinière. TAKE a saddle of mutton, and cut off the skin that is over the fat without stripping the fillet. Cut the saddle in E 117 two, and each of these two into three; braize them as the mutton à lu Soubise ; do not leave too much fat, glaze them of a nice colour, and serve them with the haricot, or the jardinière, or endive, &c. N.B.—This entrée, although frequently sent to table in France, is not often introduced in this country. It may be sent up with sorrel, or with any sauce whatever. No. 15.-The Breasts of Mutton à la Ste. Menoult. These are to be braized with carrots, onions, spices, &c. When they are well done, drain them. Take out the bones and let the meat cool between two dishes, that it may be kept flat. When cold, cut them into the shape of hearts, rounds, or into chops, just as you like. Brush them over with the yolk of an egg, and then dip them into crumbs of bread; next dip them into clarified butter, and give them another coat of bread crumbs. Put them into the oven to give them a fine brown, and serve them up with a sauce hachée, or an Italienne, or en haricot. This is also a common dish. No. 16.—Musette of Mutton with Endive. Take a shoulder of mutton that has been kept for some while; bone it without taking off the thin skin that is found near the joint; powder it over with a little pepper and salt. Then pass a piece of packthread round, as tailors do round a button, fasten the packthread, and mould the shoulder of mutton quite round. You must preserve the knuckle so that it may resemble a bagpipe. Brajze it, and season it well. After having drained and glazed it, send it up with either endive or sorrel. N.B.-It may also be stuffed and larded, and a flowret larded in the top part, and sent up with white beans à la Lyonaise. 118 No. 17.-Sheep's Tongues with Turnips. TAKE eight tongues of an equal size; let them disgorge in a little water and flour, and next blanch them. When thoroughly blanched, mark them in a stew-pan, to braize them. In case you should have a braize of beef, or of mutton, or any others, as they will all equally answer the purpose for sheep's tongues, when they are done, peel them and cut them in two. Dish them en miroton, and mask them with the sauce of the haricot, the turnips of course being put in the middle. No. 18.—The same with Cabbage Lettuces. The tongues are to be braized as above, the same as those you wish to cook in any way whatever. Take a dozen and a half of good cabbage-lettuces, wash them very clean, and blanch them. When they are cold, and you have squeezed all the water out of them, open them in two, take off the stalks, powder a little salt and pepper over them; then shut them and give them a good form; mark them in a stew-pan, surrounded with layers of bacon; moisten them with a little braize, or a poële, or any thing to give them a good taste; otherwise take the pot-top, with a little broth and salt. When the lettuces are quite done, drain them, and squeeze them in a cloth to extract the grease. Dish them en rosates, z namely, a tongue, a let- tuce, and so on successively. Put a large tongue in the middle, to improve the look of the rosate. Another time, cut the tongues in two, and dish them en miroton, that is, one half of a tongue, and a lettuce alternately. In this case, put a jardinière in the middle, and mask * both the tongues and the lettuce with the Espagnole. * Mask signifies, cover with the sauce. 119 No. 19.-Sheep's Tongues au gratin. Cut as many bits of bread in the shape of cocks’-combs, as you have tongues. Take some farce fine. (See Chap. IV. No. 6.) Erect a little dome in the centre of the dish, and dress the tongues in the said farce, leaving however room enough between to place one of the toasts; then put the dish into the oven. When the farce and tongues are done, take them out of the oven, and drain all the grease; they must be covered with bacon, in order that they may not get dry (unless a mould may be procured to close hermetically); you then put your toasts, fried of a fine brown colour, between each tongue, and the sauce with a thick essence. Mind that the tongues must be braized be- fore, with whatever sauce you serve them. No. 20.-Sheep's Tongue à la Maintenon. The tongues are to be cut in two, and put into a dus- selle, or in fine herbs, the same as chops à la Maintenon. When you put any meat en papillotes, you must use as great a quantity of fine herbs as possible, (as No. 8.) No. 21.--Hashed Mutton. When you know that you will have hashed mutton to make, be careful to keep some good gravy, then cut the skin off, and the sinews; leave as much fat as you can find in the inside of the leg; cut the meat into small flat bits, season with a little salt and fine pepper, spread a little fine flour over the meat, mix all very well, then moisten with the gravy; if you have no gravy, you must have a little broth and a small bit of glaze or portable soup; do not let it boil, for it will make the meat very tough. 120 No. 22.-Minced Mutton with Cucumbers. Roast a leg of mutton that has been kept for a long time, When under-done, let it cool; when quite cold, pare the sinews, skin, fat, &c. &c, next make a mince, which throw into the sauce with cucumbers à l'Espagnole. (See Sauces.) No. 23.-Minced Mutton with Endive. This is to be prepared in the same manner as all other minces of mutton. Only observe that minces of black meat, as we call them, require brown sauces; and that the meat must never boil a second time, as it would become tough. No. 24.-Sheep's Tails with purée of Green Peas. DISGORGE the tails in water to draw out the blood; next blanch them, and braize them in an old braize; other- wise they are to be seasoned with carrots, onions, spices, &c. When done, drain and glaze them. Then let them get a little dry in the oven. Put the purée of green peas under them; the same if you use the purée of sorrel. No. 25.- Sheep's Tails à la St. Laurent. BRAIZE them in the same manner as those above; drain them and let them cool, Mind to give them a pleasing shape. Next brush them over with the yolk of an egg. and dip them into crumbs of bread. Then dip them into clarified butter and crumbs of bread again. Put them into the oven till they are of a fine brown, if your oven is hot enough; if not, broil and send them up with rich gravy, of an Italienne. 121 N. B.-The entrées of mutton, from No. 17 to this last number, are not very frequently sent up to table in Eng- land, but in France they are held in high estimation. The tails are served in different ways, but the most commend- able is with green peas, and purées of all sorts. No. 26.--Sheep's Brains en Matelotte. · Detach the brains from the head without breaking them. Put them into a large vessel with some luke-warm water; take off the skin and let them disgorge for two hours. When they are become quite white, boil them in water, vinegar, and salt; and when they are done, serve them up with a sauce that is called matelotte, which is to be made as follows. Have a good Espagnole, glaze some small white onions (See oignons braisés) and a few mush- rooms in the sauce, together with a few cocks’-combs. Dish the brains in flowrets, with some bits of fine bread in the shape of a cock’s-comb between each; then mask with the sauce, and let the ingredients, or rugoût, be put in the middle. Observe, that any ragoût of this sort must be well seasoned ; a little Cayenne is not amiss. No. 27.--Sheep's Trotters à la Poulette. Take a dozen of sheep's trotters well scalded. Wash them in boiling water, and stew them in a blanc. (See a blanc calf's head.) When well done, take some sauce tournée well reduced, to help the thickening, into which you have put a little chopped and blanched parsley, with the juice of a lemon; then throw the trotters into this sauce after having them well drained. If you should hap- pen to have no sauce tournée, make a little white rour, moisten it with good consommé, seasoned with a bunch of parsley and small onions, and a few mushrooms. Let this sauce stew on the corner of the stove ; skim the grease, 122 and after having reduced it to a proper state for the thick- ening to be thrown in, drain the sauce through a tammy, and put the trotters into it. No.28.--Sheep's Trotters en Canelons. Take some sheep's trotters as above, and stew them in the same manner ; but do not let them be over-done, as they are to be stuffed with a farce, which could not be done in the latter case. Introduce the farce à quenelles in the room of the bones. When the trotters are well stuf- fed, put them between layers of bacon, and moisten them with a poële. Stew them for half an hour only, on account of the farce. Drain them, and mask them with a sauce well seasoned, either white or brown, according to your taste. As these are to be served whole, when you bone them, mind you do not injure the skin, for they would not hold the forcemeat that you must put in. Observe, that this is a most excellent dish, as well for the taste as for health. It is particularly good for weak stomachs. No. 29.--Sheep's Trotters fried Are to be prepared in the same manner as the pre- ceding. Make a marinade cuite, and leave the trotters in it to marinade. Then drain them, and dip them into a paste; fry them of a fine brown, and when well drained send them up, with parsley fried green in the middle. For a marinade cuite, take carrots, onions, a little, parsley roots, a clove, a little thyme, a bit of bay-leaf, and a shalot, which mix together. Fry them a little, but not brown, in a little butter. When the roots begin to colour, moisten with half water and half vinegar; let the roots and vegetables get quite done; season with pepper and salt, and drain it through a silk sieve over whatever you may choose to marinade. 123 Paste for frying, or batter.—With regard to the batter intended for frying marinades, fritteaux, &c. put about four spoonfuls of four into an earthen-pan, with a little salt, a little olive oil, and moisten with a sufficient quan- tity of water or good beer, that the paste may not cord. When the flour is well mixed, beat the whites of two eggs, which mix with the paste, and then put in, whatever you may wish to fry; let it be done instantly, however. This method is preferable to any other, except perhaps such as may be recommended for artichokes, orlies, &c. &c. &c. , 1 :1 No. 30.--Sheep's Kidneys broiled. Take some kidneys that have been kept for a while, cut them in two, and use a small skewer to keep them open, in imitation of two shells; powder them over with a little pepper and salt, dip them into a little melted but- ter, and broil them just as you are going to serve up. Broil the side that you have cut open first : when you broil the other side, the whole of the gravy issues on the upper part. Mind when you take them off the fire, that the gravy does not drop off. Have some parsley chopped very fine, mixed with fresh butter, the juice of a lemon, pepper, and salt; put a little of that mixture over each kidney, and send up to table in a hot dish. N. B.-Kidneys are an excellent breakfast for sports- men, but are seldom sent up to dinner. They must be eaten directly, as they lose their goodness by waiting. No. 31.-Sheep's Kidneys with Champaign ARE prepared in every respect as at No. 19, Entrées of Beef. 124 No. 32.-Leg of Mutton braized, called generally de Sept Heures. See Removes of Soup, No. 7, page 70. No. 33.—Leg of Mutton, farcie or stuffed. Take a leg of mutton, bone it without damaging the skin, cut off all the fat; then take some fat bacon, about one third of the quantity of the inside meat: chop the bacon and the meat together, season the whole well, with chop- ped parsley in the farce, or force-meat; next stuff the skin of the leg of mutton, sew it underwise, wrap the whole in a cloth, and braize it as a gigot de sept heures, Drain it a short time before you serve up, in order to be enabled to take off the packthread. Then glaze and serve up with the Lyonaise. The Lyonaise is as follows : take one quart of white haricot beans, put them into soft water for three hours, then put them into cold soft water, to boil with a very small bit of butter; when done, mince one very large white onion, and fry it in half a quartern of fresh butter; when the onion is well done, put to it a spoonful of flour, moisten with some good gravy, and leave the flour to be well done; then put a few haricot beans with it, and rub it through a sieve or tammy; after this drain the haricot beans well, and put them into that purée, well seasoned with salt and pepper. No.34.-Boiled Neck of Mutton. Take from the best part of a neck of mutton, the skin and the bones, which are unsightly. Boil it for an hour and a half. Then send it up with turnips mashed with a little butter and cream. 126 CHAP. VII. ENTRÉES OF VEAL. It is necessary to observe, that the veal you intend to serve for dishes must always be very white and fat; what you use for sauces is not of so much consequence; but I am sure that very white veal is more healthy than common veal ; red veal will disorder a great many stomachs, white never does. No. 1.- Veal Cutlets broiled, à l'Italienne. Take the best part of a neck of veal ; cut the ribs one by one, flatten them, and pare them nicely. Next dip them into butter, and broil them on a slow fire, that they may get a fine brown colour. Do not forget to powder them with a little pepper and salt before you dip them into the butter, and send them to table with a brown Italienne, or Espagnole, or gravy. No. 2.—The same, à la Vénitienne, dites aux fines Herbes. Take the same part as above; when the cutlets are well pared, take a quarter of a pottle of mushrooms, a few shalots, a little parsley, chop the whole very fine, sepa- rately, rasp a little fat bacon, and a small bit of butter, and stew these fine herbs on a slow fire. As soon as they are done, put the cutlets with them, and stew them over a small stove. When they are done, and well seasoned with 128 time with the fine herbs, let them cool; then cut some bacon into hearts, which you put on each side of the cut- lets, to prevent the paper from catching fire; then wrap them well in the paper, and rub the paper with oil, and broil them on a very slow fire. No. 6.— Veal Cutlets à la Chingara. Pare six cutlets as above. Sweat them with a little butter and ham; when they have been well seasoned, and are done, cut some slices of tongue à l'écarlate of the size of the cutlets, which you glaze, and with which each cutlet is to be covered. Serve them up with an essence detached from the glaze of the cutlets. No. 7.- Veal Cutlets à la Dreux. These are to be cut very thick, and larded with large slips of ham. Season and mark them wrapped up in bacon and carrots, onions, thyme, cloves, bay-leaves, &c. Lay the trimmings on the top, and moisten with two spoonfuls of good broth; let them stew over a very slow fire. When they are done, lay them in a dish to cool. Next pare them of an agreeable shape, and put them into the glaze of the liquor which you have reduced. When dinner-time is at hand, glaze them of a fine brown, and serve up with an Espagnole, or sauce hachée, or any other sauce. No. 8.- Veal Cutlets à la Châlons. These are prepared in the same manner as those above, No.7. The only difference is, that they are larded che- quer-like, with pickled cucumbers, ham, and fat bacon, and that the former are larded with ham alone. Serve them up with a sauce hachée, or purée of sorrel. 129 No. 9.-Veal Cutlets à la Financière. These are to be prepared, larded, done, and glazed as those à la Dauphine; put under them a ragoût à la finan- cière (See Sauces), and between each cutlet a large quenelle (See Sauces). No. 10.— Neck of Veal à la Cream*. Take the same part as is used for the cutlets ; cut the bones short enough to be enabled to roll the flanks under- neath: give it a square shape; and marinade it for a couple of hours, with oil, parsley, sliced shalots, pepper, salt, thyme, and bay-leaves. Fasten it on the spit, so that the shape is not altered, and then wrap it up in buttered paper. When roasted for about an hour and a quarter, take off the paper. Have ready a velouté reduced, which you pour over it, and with which you baste it till the sauce adheres all round; then serve up with a velouté under it. No. 11. -Neck of Veal à la Mirepoix. Make a mirepoix as follows, with rasped bacon, butter, bit of ham, thyme, bay-leaves, pepper, salt, &c. Fry the whole on a slow fire. When that is done, put the necks of veal fried with it; only stew it a little, and let it cool. When cold, take two sheets of white paper, butter one of them, and trim it with layers of bacon. Then lay the mire- poir over the bacon, and close the paper hermetically. Wrap the whole up in several sheets of paper, and bake it in an oven, which, however, must not be too hot. It will be done in an hour and a half's time. When done, take off the paper, and send up to table with an Espagnole, or an * A la cream will sound very bad to an English ear; but as this sauce gives its name to the dish, it must retain the French appellation. K 130 Italienne. As mirepoix is the name of the seasoned fat sub- stance put round the meat to prevent its drying, and also to give it taste, you must remember to make no more than is wanted for the size of the entrées you intend to make. Half a quarter of a pound of butter, the same quantity of ham, thyme, bay-leaves, salt, pepper, &c. are sufficient for this. No. 12.-Neck of Veal à la Barbarie. Trim the neck of veal as above. Cut some black truffles into nails, and with these lard the meat. Put them so as to represent a draft-board. Braize the meat as you would do a fricandeau, but it requires bacon on the top, that the veal may retain its white colour, and the truffles their black one. When done, glaze it slightly, and serve under it an Italienne with truffles, or the sauce hachée. No. 13.-Neck of Veal à la Ste. Menhoult. BRAIZE a neck of veal as above, but without larding it. Send it up glazed with any sauce you may fancy. If it is returned untouched, make a sauce d'attelets, with a little sauce tournée, and a little white Italienne (See Sauces), which reduce on the fire. When the sauce is quite thick, throw into it the yolks of two eggs. Spread this sauce over the neck of veal, cover it likewise with crumbs of bread; then have a little melted butter, and strew some more crumbs over it, and moisten it by using the brush, dipped in the butter. When the meat is thus well soaked, put it into the oven to give it a good colour, or use the salaman- der. Send it up with a sauce hachée. N.B.--All the entrées of veal, such as carrés, fricandeaux, côetlettes, sweetbreads, &c. are served up with all sorts of purées, and la Macédoine, in the summer season. It is useless to multiply these articles when they may be ex- 131 plained more briefly: by changing the sauce, you change the appearance of the dish. No. 14.--Le Fricandeau aur différentes Purées. FRICANDEAU is a very good entrée when made with due care and attention, but it is seldom dressed to that degree of perfection which it requires. To make a good fricandeau, the veal must be of the best quality, which you may know by the meat being white, and not thready. Take off the skin of a noix de veau *, flatten it on a cloth or a clean towel, then at one stroke level it with your knife, for a fricandeau that is cut off at several times never looks so well. When you have pared the top part, turn it round, make slits in the middle, that it may taste more of the seasoning. Next lard it very thick, which in general is not properly done in England. The conse- quence is, that the bacon not being laid sufficiently cross- wise, the shreds shrink, and cannot be properly glazed. Never blanch the fricandeau after it has been larded, as some people do, but mark it in a stew-pan large enough to contain the fricandeau, besides plenty of roots cut into slices, such for instance as two carrots, two large onions, and some roots of parsley, besides a small quantity of mace, allspice, thyme, bay-leaves, and whole pepper. Put all these on the bottom of the stew-pan, with layers of very fat bacon on the top of the vegetables, as lean bacon gives a red co- lour to the fricandeau. When you have thus well covered the roots, erect a small dome in the centre, lay the fri- candeau over the bacon, powder a little salt over it, and moisten with a sufficient quantity of broth to cover the roots * Noix de Veau-the leg of veal is divided into three distinct fleshy parts, besides the middle bone; the larger part, to which is attached the udder, is what is called la noix, the flat white part under it, sous noir, and the side part, contre noir. For these three parts the English have no name by which the French appellations may be rendered. · K 2 132 without reaching the said fricandeau. Then put a great deal of fire on the cover of the stew-pan, keeping very little beneath the stew-pan. It is not amiss to observe, that the fricandeau being done in this way, retains a good shape, and all its gravy. If you should wish to cook it as I am farther going to direct, the moment it is parti (which signifies, when it be- gins to boil) put it over a very slow and equal fire, for three hours and a half, if it is not very large. Baste it fre- quently with the liquor: then take a needle a brider, which run through the middle: if it gets in and comes out easily, the fricandeau is done enough. Now put a great deal of fire over it to make the bacon firm, which otherwise would break when you glaze it. The liquor must be reduced to be used as glaze for the fricandeau; it being more tasty than any other glaze. Serve up with it such purée as the season will afford, or the Macédoine, &c. N.B.—The fricandeau may vary with regard to the shape, but the savour is always the same, if it is done properly. If for instance a fricandeau is to be served when there is a grand party, it is requisite to give it another shape than for a family dinner. Though an expensive dish when served alone, it becomes rather cheap if there is a grand dinner, as veal in abundance is wanted to make the broths and sauces. The noix de veau, besides glaze, will supply a very elegant and good entrée. In the summer season give it the shape of a turtle. Cut off part of each extremity of the fricandeau, take the tops of asparagus, which you lay be- neath, after having poured the Macédoine into the dish. Have four braized lettuces ready, put one at each corner, as sham claws. Asparagus and lettuce eat well with a Macédoine, and of course they may be used without any danger of their being disapproved of. In the winter season make quenelles of veal, which place instead of the above- 133 mentioned articles, and serve up with an Espagnole; but the proper sauce is sorrel. Another Method. · When the fricandeau is fully larded, split it through the middle. Take a very large turnip, or a piece of cold veal, which has been used to make a sauce, cut either round or oval, wrap it up in bacon, and thrust it within the cleft, as you have done in the fricandeau. Mark this, as the other, and let it be done in the same manner. You must observe that it will be done sooner, that is, in less time. Glaze it. Now take either French beans or aspa- ragus; place them erect inside of the two extremities of the cleft, and pour a Macédoine between, with a very large sweetbread larded and glazed over the middle, which pro- duces a very pleasing effect. The same may be done for a fricandeau en puits, with a blanquette in the middle. No. 15.—The Grenadins of Veal with the purée of White Celery. We call grenadins small fillets of veal larded as a frican- deau, cooked and sauced in the same manner. Out of a noix of veal you may make two or three grenadins, accord- ing to its size. It is no easy matter to explain the manner of cutting them ; let it suffice to say, that being much thinner than a fricandeau, they naturally are done in less time. They are served up with a Macédoine, or with all sorts of purées. No. 16.-The Noix of Veal en Bédeau. It is so called, because in France the parish beadles wear gowns of two colours, one half of one colour, the other half of another. 134 Take the noix of a young heifer, and trim it as follows. If intended for an entrée, choose the smallest you can pro- cure; if for a remove, the largest that can be got. Flatten it a little, retaining the udder, Form a crescent on the border of the fat, and pare that part where there is no fat. Lard it as a fricandeau ; let it be done in the same man- ner, only cover with bacon the part that is not larded, in order to keep it white, and glaze it slightly when done. Being done in the same style as the fricandeau, it is served up with the same sauces. No. 17.-Veal à la Bourgeoise. The only part which I could wish to recommend in this case is the cassis *, which is fat, and a luscious eating. It is not generally sent up when there is a grand dinner; but for a family dinner it may prove very acceptable indeed. The plain way of cooking this I reckon the best, and will explain it accordingly. Take a stew-pan large enough to make the veal firm in a little butter, by frying ; when it is of a fine brown colour all round, put in a few carrots, onions, spices, a little lean bacon, and two calf's feet, sea- soned with pepper, salt, thyme, &c. Moisten with two spoonfuls of broth or water, and let the whole stew for a couple of hours on a very slow fire. When done, drain the fat, take out the spice, and serve up the veal with the roots and the gravy all round. No. 18.-Sweetbreads à la Dauphine. If you use round dishes, you must have four sweet- breads; if a long dish, three large ones will be sufficient. Mind, at any rate, to select them of a large size and very * I call cassis, that part which is attached to the tail end of a loin of veal; the same part of beef is called the rump. 135 white. Pare the sinews and the fat; throw them into warm water to draw out the blood, and make them as white as possible. When thoroughly disgorged, blanch them a little in boiling water to make them firm, that you may lard them with greater facility. As soon as they are larded, rub a stew-pan all over with butter, cut a few carrots and onions over the butter ; cover this with some fat bacon, lay the sweetbreads over the bacon, powder them over with salt, and stew them with a great deal of fire on the top, and very little beneath. When they are of a fine brown, cover them with a round of paper, and lessen the fire on the top. If they are large, it will require three- quarters of an hour to do them. If they are too much done, they become soft, and are not so palatable. When properly done, drain them, and put them in a pan with some glaze, and the bacon beneath. Leave them in the glaze till dinner-time; then drain them afresh, and glaze them of a fine brown. Serve them up with sorrel or endive. No. 19.-Sweetbreads à la Financière. THESE are to be larded and done in every respect as those above. Send up with a fine quenelle between or in the middle, and under them the ragoût à la financière, or the ragoût à l'Allemande. гу я No. 20.-- Sweetbreads à la Dreux. Let the sweetbreads disgorge till they are quite white. Then blanch them thoroughly, which is known by their becoming quite firm. Then set them to cool in cold water. Lard them with ham, chequer-like, very close to the level of the sweetbreads, mark the sweetbreads between layers of bacon; moisten with a good braize if you have any, if not, the same as the other, and stew them for three-quarters of an hour, Next drain and glaze them, and serve up either you 136 with a velouté, or Espagnole, or purée of sorrel, endive, or Macédoine. No, 21.-Blanquette of Veal with Cucumbers. Roast a neck, or a loin of veal. The leg part is tough and dry, as every one must know. When cold, cut it into scollops and put it into the sauce blanquette. (See Sauces.) Take six fine cucumbers, cut them into quarters, pare them about the size of the scollops: then take the parings and some other pieces, which mince with a little onion. Fry the whole together in a little butter; when the cucumbers are entirely melted, moisten with a sauce tournée, and stew them on the corner of the stove for an hour; skim off the grease, and rub the sauce through a tammy. Put the other whole cucumbers into some sauce tournée, and let them boil till done. Then lay them in a hair sieve to drain. Put together the purée of cucumbers and the sauce tournée in which you have boiled the cucumbers; being sufficiently reduced, thicken it with yolks of eggs well beaten, and seasoned with salt and a very little sugar. When the sauce is well thickened with the aforesaid articles and a little thick cream, put in the meat and cucumbers, and keep the sauce hot, that the meat may have a better savour. This entrée must be sweet, not too much so, but the sugar must predominate, : No. 22.-Blanquette of Veal à la Paysanne. Roast the veal as above; cut it in the same way; reduce the sauce tournée, season well, put the veal into the sauce before the thickening; chop some parsley very fine, and put it in with the juice of half a lemon before you mix it with the thickening; stir the stew-pan round without using a spoon, and send up to table quite hot. N.B,- This is a very good method; but if you can cut 137 your veal whilst quite hot, it will be a great improvement, as the sauce will then be better imbibed by the meat. No. 23.—Scollops of Sweetbreads with Green Peas. Take four fine sweetbreads, let them disgorge, and blanch them thoroughly. Next cut them into scollops, as large as possible. Mark them in a sauté pan with clarified butter and a little salt. A quarter of an hour before you send up, sautez them over a stove, with a clear fire, turn them round, and when done, drain the butter, and put a little glaze into the sauté pan. Keep stirring the sweet- breads in the glaze ; dish them en miroton, and send up the peas in the middle. When you have sweetbreads of desserte*, cut them into scollops, make them hot in a little light glaze, and after having dished them en miroton, mask them with the peas. Scollops of sweetbreads are easier to dress, when you put between them a slice of fried bread cut round, and the green peas in the middle ; without the fried bread they do not keep the shape in which you dish them. No. 24.—The Attelets of Sweetbreads à l’Italienne. TAĶe some fine sweetbreads, as white as can be pro- cured. Blanch them, and stew them in a well-seasoned liquor of braize. When done, drain them; and when cold, cut them into squares of about an inch. Put those squares into a sauce d'attelets, and let them cool. When the sauce is cold, skewer the squares, alternately, with a bit of calf's udder ready done, using silver skewers, and give them as nearly as possible a square shape, all of a size. Then, moistened with the sauce, dip them into crumbs of bread only. Now give them a complete square shape, and dip * Desserte, is when left from the table. 138, them into an omelette of four eggs, whites and yolks beaten together with a little salt, cover them over again with crumbs of bread, which level with a knife. Next powder some crumbs of bread on the cover of a stew- pan, and lay the attelets over them. The moment you are going to send up to table, fry them of a fine brown, and sauce them with a brown or white Italienne, according to your fancy. No. 25.-Small Cases of Scollops of Sweetbreads. Let the sweetbreads disgorge and be blanched as above. When they have been lying for a time in cold water, make small scollops of them, and mix them with a dusselle, which is to be made in the following way:- Take half a pint of mushrooms, four or five shalots, a little parsley, and chop the whole very fine separately. Next rasp a little fat bacon, put a small lump of fresh butter. Stew the fine herbs over a slow fire, and put the scollops with them, seasoned with salt, pepper, and a little pounded spice. When done, drain all the fat; then put the scollops into small paper cases fried in olive-oil, and put to them a deal of seasoning, I mean plenty of fine herbs. Then strew over a few crumbs of bread fried in butter. Lay the paper cases for a moment in the oven, and when you are going to serve up, pour into each of them a little thin Espagnole, and squeeze the juice of a lemon; but contrive to drain all the fat. No. 26.-Croquets of Sweetbread. Take such sweetbreads as have already been served, cut them into as small dice as possible. Have a good velouté reduced ready. Throw the dice of sweetbreads into the velouté, and give them a boil, that they may taste of the sauce. Then lay them on a plate to cool. When cold, 139 roll them into any shape you like, round, oval, or long. Of all things avoid giving them the shape of pears, as some persons do, for in that case they must be more handled, without at all improving the quality. Serve up with par- sley, fried green, in the middle. Sometimes you may spread a very thin puff paste, and wrap some of the meat of croquette in it; put some crumbs of bread over it, and fry it of a very good colour. This is what is called risole. The risole differs in this particular only, that one is wrap- ped up in crumbs of bread, and the other in paste. No. 27.-Calf's Brain en Matelotte. Take three brains of an equal size. Strip them of the upper skin, let them disgorge in water ; then boil them in water, salt, a little vinegar and butter. When done, drain and dish them, serve them up either with la sauce mate- lotte, or la financière. Cut each of them in two, and when you serve them on the dish, put between each a bit of bread, of the shape of a cock’s-comb, that has been fried of a nice colour. No. 28.—Calf's Brain à la Maître d'Hôtel. Let them be prepared as above. Cut some bread into the shape of cocks’-combs, which fry in butter till of a fine colour. Dish them between each half of the brains, which you have divided, and mask* the brains with a maître d'hôtel. No. 29.--Calf's Brain with fried Parsley. The same as above with regard to the stewing. Fry separately some parsley very green, and likewise some butter in a frying-pan, till such time as it ceases sparkling. Then put the brains into a dish, with the parsley in the middle, and for the sauce, put with the brown butter a spoonful of yinegar, some salt and pepper, and pour it under the brains. * Mask means to cover with the sauce. 140 No. 30.-Marinade of Calf's Brain. · In case you should have any brains of desserte, make a marinade cuite, and give a boil to the brains in it. Then drain them and wrap them up in paste. (See Paste for frying, page 123.) No.31.-Calf's Brain, Love-Apple Sauce. These are to be prepared and done as those above. Cut slices of bread in the shape of cocks’-combs, fry and glaze them, and dish them between the brains, with the love-apple sauce under them. No. 32.— Tendrons of Veal à la Jardinière. TENDRONS are found at the extremity of the ribs. Previously to your detaching them, pare them from the dry bone which is next to them ; then part them from the bone, and scollop them in the shape of oysters. Set them to disgorge, that they may be made very white. Next blanch them through. Let them cool. When cold, pare them of a good form, and mark them in a stew-pan wrapped up in layers of bacon. Put in a carrot, an onion, a bay- leaf, a few branches of thyme, and salt and pepper ; moisten them with good broth, or with a poële if you have any, and let them stew for four hours as gently as you can, When they are done, drain them, and put them into a sauté pan with a little glaze. Keep stirring them over the fire, that they may get the taste of the glaze. Dish them en miroton, and serve la jardinière in the middle*. * Lajardinière means the gardener's wife: by this is understood, that any vegetable of a good appearance may be used for that dish ; those most parti- cularly used are carrots, turnips, asparagus, green peas, heads of cauliflowers, artichoke-bottoms, mushrooms, French beans, Windsor beans, &c They are, however, to be used only in the spring. 141 No. 33.— Tendrons of Veal with Green Peas, brown. Whatever sauce you may wish to serve the tendrons of veal with, they must always be done as directed above. They may be served in different ways, that is, either white or brown, which is explained in the article of Sauces. The tendrons à l'Espagnole are to be drained an hour before you send them up. When you are sure there is no more fat left, put them with the peas, that they may get the taste of them; give them one or two boils, then dish them en miroton, and mask them with the peas à l'Espagnole. No.34.— Tendrons of Veal with Green Peas, white. BRAIZE the tendrons as above. When they are done, drain them, and glaze them in a sauté pan. Dish them en miroton, and put the peas in the middle. (See the articles green peas, white, or brown.) No.35.— Tendrons of Veal with Cabbage Lettuce, à l'Espagnole. BRAIZE and glaze the tendrons as above. Then take some braized lettuce. (See Entrées of Mutton, No. 18, page 118.) Dish the tendrons en miroton, that is, a tendron and a lettuce alternately, and mask* with an Espagnole. . No.36.— Tendrons of Veal en Marinade, dites au Soleil. If you have any tendrons that have been sent to table, and are returned untouched, you cannot send them up a second time dressed in the same manner, as they no longer retain their fine colour. Put them into a marinade cuite, and then in paste. (See Paste for frying, page 123.) Fry them of a nice colour, and serve them up with a poivrade. * Mask, means to cover with the sauce. 142 No. 37.-Tendrons of Veal en Chipolata, white. (See deep Dishes, No.6, page 61.) They may also be served as entrées. Glaze them, and put the chipolata in the middle. No. 38.--Tendrons of Veal en Chipolata, brown. (SEE deep Dishes, No.6, page 61.) They are also served as entrées, provided you have some deep dishes to contain all the ingredients and the sauce ; for otherwise you had better not send them up. No. 39.— Tendrons of Veal with the purée of Chesnuts. The tendrons are served with all sorts of purées, either of peas, celery, sorrel, onions, mushrooms, &c.; but it is use- less to repeat similar observations. Tendrons with a purée must always be glazed, and dished en miroton when served as entrées, with any sort of purée in the middle. . . No. 40.-Calves' Ears farcies and fried. Take six or eight calves' ears, and let them disgorge. Blanch them, and be particular to clean away all the hair they have inside; then stew them in a blanc. (See Calf's Head, No.10, Removes.) When the ears are done enough, that is, when they can stand upright, drain them ; let them cool; then introduce a farce fine (See Farces Fines, Entrées of Fowl à la créme) into the hollow part. Give the ear the shape of a horn. Dip it into an omelette and crumbs of bread twice successively, and then fry them till they are of a fine brown. Serve under them a maître d'hôtel grasse, or love-apple sauce. No. 41.-Calves' Ears, Love-Apple Sauce. These are to be done the same as above, and particu- larly when they are very white, otherwise serve them fried. 143 Slit with your knife the part of the horn all round. Cut the thickest side very flat, that they may stand upright. Dish them en fleurons à blanc, over the love-apple sauce. No. 42.--Calves' Ears with green Dutch Sauce. As above, very white, and the Dutch green sauce under it. The green Dutch sauce is a sauce tournée reduced, and . a verd de persil in it, with the juice of a lemon and a little Cayenne. No. 43.--Calves' Ears with the Ravigotte Sauce Are to be done as those above, and slit in the same manner, and served up with a ravigotte. No. 44.-Calf's Liver larded and roasted. TAKE a fine calf's liver of a light colour. Lard it as a fricandeau, and pickle it in vinegar with an onion cut into . slices, some stalks of parsley, salt, pepper, thyme, and a . bay-leaf. When it has been marinaded for four and twenty hours in the pickle, fasten it on a spit, roast it, and baste it frequently. Then glaze it with a light glaze, as it is naturally of a black colour. Serve under it a brown poivrade. No. 45.-Scollops of Calf's Liver aux fines Herbes. Take a nice calf's liver, very white, and cut it into slices, which pare in the shape of hearts. Then take some fine herbs, parsley, shalots, and mushrooms, and stew them a little on the fire. Then sautez the calf's liver with the herbs over a gentle fire. When it is done on one side, turn it round and season it with pepper and salt. Dish the liver. Put a little flour with the herbs, moisten them with a little 144 gravy and broth, and let them stew for ten minutes. Next squeeze the juice of a lemon; and with this sauce mask the liver that you have dished en miroton. This to be sure is a common entrée, yet it is very palat- able. You may put the liver in the sauce; but mind that it does not boil. It is a dish for a breakfast à la fourchette. No. 46.- Les petites Noir d'Epaules de Veau with Sorrel.* The petites noir in Paris are generally sold at the rate of half a pound of meat. Ten or even twelve are required for an entrée, which is a very dainty dish for those people who know how to eat it. In general they are very fat, for which reason you are forced to send them up to table with the fat, as it keeps the noir mellow. Set them to disgorge as you did the tendrons. Trim a stew-pan with layers of bacon, put in the noix after having blanched them, and give them a pleasing shape. Then moisten with a poële, and stew them for an hour on a very slow fire. Next drain them, and glaze them at two different times. Dish them en cordon, and put the sorrel in the middle. No. 47.-The Noix of Shoulder of Veal with Endive. These are dressed exactly in the same manner as those above; but you put endives, either white or brown, instead of sorrel. No. 48.-Calf's Feet plain. TAKE some nice white calf's feet, bone them as far as the joint; set them to disgorge, and stew them in a blanc. (See Calf's Head.) When they are done, drain them and send them up quite hot, with parsley and butter in a sauce- boat. * These are to be found on the side of a shoulder of veal. 145 No. 49.-Calf's Feet Marinade. PREPARE the feet as above. Make a marinade cuite, and some paste for frying. Serve them up with fried parsley or a poivrade in the middle. (See Sauces.) No. 50.-Calves' Feet, farcis en Soleil. · Stew a few calves' feet as above. When they are done, drain them. Then take a little farce fine, that is to say, a farce made of all sorts of dressed meat, &c. eggs ex- cepted, which serve to make the whole stick together. (In order to prevent too frequent repetitions in a work of this kind, I have shewn the manner of making the diffe- rent farces in a separate chapter.) When you have stuffed the middle of the calf's feet with the farce, give them a round shape, then dip them into an omelette seasoned with pepper and salt, and into crumbs of bread twice over; and fry them till they are of a fine brown. Serve them up with fried parsley very green, and send up the brown sharp sauce in a boat. No. 51.-Calf's Feet, à la Poulette. STEw them in a blanc, like those above. Dish them, and pour the sauce over them. (See No. 27, Entrées of Mutton, for the sauce.) If you were to put them in the sauce, they would not look so well. Mind, drain them well before you put them into the dish. 147 No. 2.- Fowl, or gros Sel. The same as above, with the only difference, that you lay both over and under the fowl some crystallized salt, that has not been pounded. mo No. 3.--Fowl à la Villeroi. Take a fine fowl, which may be known by the connois- seurs by a skin of bluish hue marbled with grey: it is to be emptied and singed in the same manner as directed No. 1. Let it be trussed, the legs turned down outwards : inside of the body introduce a small quantity of butter kneaded with salt and lemon-juice. The fowl to be put into an oval stew-pan, with a layer of fat bacon: next pour some poële over it. (See Sauces, poële.) Those ar- ticles which are poëlez *, requiring to preserve their white- ness, are not to be kept on the fire so long as others. It requires only three-quarters of an hour for a fowl to be done in this style. A capon would require full an hour. To be served with sauce à la financière. Observation to be particularly attended to by the Cook. As the poële has no translation, it retains its name; it is indispensable in fine cookery, and is made as follows :- Take one pound of beef-suet, one pound of very fresh but- ter, and one pound of very fat bacon; cut the suet and the bacon into very large dice, put them into a stew-pan with two pounds of veal cut in the same manner, fried till the veal becomes very white, and then moisten with about three pints of boiling clear water, a handful of salt, one bay-leaf, a few sprigs of thyme, one onion stuck with * Poëlez is alınost the same operation as traizing; the only difference is, that what is poëlé must be underdone, and a braize must be done through. L 2 148 three cloves, and a great bundle of parsley and green onions ; let the whole boil gently till the onion is done, then drain it through a hair-sieve, and use it for any thing that may want poële. The use of poële is to make every thing boiled in it very white and tasty: in the winter it keeps for a week, and is very useful in the larder. din the breast one skin and Heshi jard No.4.- Fowl à la Montmorenci. The same care and attention are requisite in this case as in the former. The fowl being trussed up, you have some boiling water ready, then laying hold of the fowl by the saddle, dip the breast only into the water in order to give additional firmness to the skin and flesh: next dip it into cold water. When the fowl is quite cold, lard the whole breast in the same manner as a fricandeau of veal, and put it into an oval stew-pan, trimmed all round with fat bacon, and moisten with the poële, but none at the top. There must be a brisk fire over it, and a slow one under it, the same as for a fricandeau, and it will be done within three-quarters of an hour at most. Dry the bacon with a salamander, glaze of a good colour, and send up with sauce à l'Allemande. No. 5.–Fowl à la Condé. PROCURE a nice fowl, singe and truss it up as above; slit the breast, and introduce small slices of truffles cut into the following shapes into the slits that you have made : cover the whole with slices of bacon, and let it be stewed as above. Care must be taken, however, when you pour out the bacon, not to derange the symmetry. This dish requires to be garnished in imitation of a chambord with larded sweetbread, cocks’-combs, pigeons à la gautier, large quenelles à la cuillière, and sauce à la financière. 149 No. 6.-Fowl à la Turque. EMPTY a fine fowl, and be particular in washing the inside of it with very hot water; if you leave any blood in it, the rice would be full of scum. Your rice having boiled a sufficient time in rich consommé, season it with salt, and introduce some into the body of the fowl, which you next roast, well wrapped up in layers of bacon, and in paper ; it requires an hour to have it sufficiently done. Send it up with rice round the fowl, the same as you have used to put inside, only add to it two spoonfuls of very good bé- chamelle, well seasoned ; do not let it be too thin, and pour a little velouté over the fowl. Take particular care to keep the fowl white. No. 7.— Fowl à la Dreux. The fowl to be singed and trussed up as above. In or- der to give it additional firmness, use boiling water, as in No. 4. Cut some ham into long squares ; lard the breast of the fowl in imitation of a small draft-board, put it into the stew-pan, as above, and moisten with poële. The same time, and no longer, is requisite for the fowl to be com- pletely done. To this must be added the sauce à l'Alle- mande. No. 8.-Fowl, with green Oysters. Singe and truss a nice fowl, and put it into a stew-pan, the same as in No.3. When done enough, drain it, and send it up with oyster-sauce as follows. Oyster-Sauce for Fowl or Turkey.—Take two dozen of oysters ; and take care to preserve all the liquor when you open them. Put the oysters into a small stew-pan with the liquor, and add to it a spoonful of water. When the liquor 150 boils, the oysters are done; stir them with a spoon, and put them to drain in a hair-sieve as you take them from the stew-pan with a spoon; let the liquor settle, and pour it off clear into another vessel ; beard the oysters, and wash them again in the liquor, in order to remove all grit and sand; then put a half quartern of fresh butter into a stew-pan, with a spoonful or two of very fine four; when the flour is fried a little, moisten with the oyster liquor, and a pint of cream: let this boil fifteen minutes ; and add to it two spoonfuls of béchamelle : if you have no béchamelle, put a small bit of glaze, or portable soup, well seasoned. Mind, this has no essence of anchovies, as for fish : it is the only difference. No. 9.--- Fowl aur Olives. SINGE, &c. &c. a fine fowl as above: then take some olives, which are to be blanched till they are no longer briny. Next boil them in a thin Espagnole. Skim the sauce and add a little lemon-juice, and pour it under the fowl. Serve up with some stuffed olives, without stones. Turn the olives with your knife, so as to take out the stone, and leave the olive whole. No. 10.-Fowl à la Crême. This dish is made out of a cold fowl, either roasted or stewed: you take off the breast and fleshy part of the fowl, by cutting it square all through ; with a little bread, toasted and dipped in butter, stop the aperture ; then have the farce à la crême, as directed in No.5, with which fill the fowl; then make a kind of wall round the fowl with buttered paper, 'cover the same with bacon, in order that the fowl may not get too much colour. If this dish be placed on the flanks, some of the same farce may be served on toasts cut in the shape of hearts or lozenges, which are - - - - - - - - 151 called témoins. These are to be baked in the oven, the same as the fowls, and the fat to be well drained. Send up with a thin Espagnole sauce, or velouté. The toast must be fried before you put the farce over it. No. 11.-- Fowl à la Monglas. This is likewise a cold fowl of desserte ; take off the breast as above. You must have ready either an émincé, or a salpicon pretty thick, which is to be introduced cold, into the body of the fowl. Beat the yolks of two eggs, with a little fresh melted butter; then cover the breast of the fowl only with crumbs of bread, basted with clarified butter; next give it a colour with the salamander, but you must be careful that it does not get a brown colour too soon: now baste it with a little butter again ; take the red-hot shovel to give the fowl a good brown colour on all sides; serve a brown sauce under it, if you have applied a salpicon ; and a velouté if you have used an émincé; it may also be called a poularde en surprise. Emincé or salpicon may be made with the same sauce; salpicon is a composition of different ingredients, and émincé is all of one sort. Salpicon.-Cut into small dices, some mushrooms, tongue, truffles, and filets of fowl; the truffles and mush- rooms must be ready done, as well as the tongue and fowl; put all this into a very reduced béchamelle, and when cold, use as directed. Emincé-is only the fleshy part of either fowl or game, minced and put into some béchamelle well seasoned ; the difference between mince and dice is, that when you have a short allowance of meat, you are obliged to mince, as it requires no shape. Salpicon is in general brown ; minced fowl always white. 152 No. 12.— Fowl à la Dubaril. This must likewise be a fowl of desserte*, but yet very white. Take off the breast, as in No. 11. Then take the fleshy part of a nice white roast fowl, which you cut into small square pieces of an equal size; you also cut some tongue the same : put these slices of fowl and tongue into a béchamelle pretty thick. Keep your fowl very hot. The moment you are going to serve it, pour the émincé inside the body of the fowl; thin slices of tongue, cut of the shape of cocks’-combs, should be put round the mince on the top of the fowl ; serve under it a ragoût à l'Allemande and poached eggs on the top of the mince. No. 13.-Fowl à la Mirepoix, otherwise à la Cendre. Truss the fowl as in No. 1. Next mark a mirepoix without its being melted, that is to say, scrape some bacon, a little butter, a few slices of ham, with a little thyme, bay- leaves, salt, and pepper. Then spread the whole on a sheet of white paper : wrap the fowl up in this sheet of paper, and cover it with several other sheets : let the whole be closed hermetically, lest the grease should be lost; then put it into the oven if not too hot; if it should happen to be so, let the fowl be then covered with hot ashes, and over these have some live burning coals, but not too vivid, for fear of the paper catching fire, which would spoil the fowl. It requires two hours for the fowl to be sufficiently done; when so, drain it well, and send it up with an Espagnole under it, or poivrade, or a sauce hachée. This dish is seldom served, as it gives great trouble in the making. * Desserte means what comes from the table. 153 No. 14.-Fowl à la Cardinal. Take a nice white fowl, singe it, and take out the bones without destroying the skin. Next have a farce à quenelles*, wherein you introduce a little lobster spawn well pounded, to make it very red. This farce being made rather liquid, is to be injected, first between the skin and the flesh of the fowl, and then inside of the body. You then mould the fowl into an agreeable shape: next put it into an oval stew- pan well trimmed with slices of bacon, and pour some poële over it; leave it on the fire for an hour and a half. As it has no bones left, it requires more time before it is done. Serve it up with a sauce à l'Allemande, to which you add some of the red to dye the sauce, or some love-apple sauce. No. 15.— Fowl à Campine, with raw Onions. Truss the fowl with the legs outwards, and roast it. It must be of a good colour. When done, slit the breast, cut raw onions in slices, which you introduce into the slits you have made, and send it up with a brown poivrade highly seasoned, and very hot. No. 16.–Fowl à la Tartare. TAKE a fine fowl, turn in the legs as usual, then cut it in two, take the bones off from the back, cut the breast-bones off, break those of the legs, flatten the fowl with the back of your knife, and season it with salt and pepper: then dip it into clarified butter, and next into crumbs of bread, equally on all sides. Next broil it up to a fine colour, on * Farce à quenelles; the necessity of preserving this appellation, arises out of the multiplicity of different farces which are made, and are called in England, forced-meats. As this is a particular one, the professor must retain the proper name. 154 a slow fire, that it may be done thoroughly. Send it up with the brown Italienne. Thrust your knife into it, to as- certain if it is well done; it requires an hour, or at least three-quarters, to be done properly. No. 17.- Fowl à la Chingara. Take a nice fowl of a fine white colour, singe and pick it well; then cut it into four equal parts, well trimmed. Next cut some thin slices of ham of a very good shape, put them into a buttered stew-pan, and put the four quar- ters of the fowl over them; let the whole simmer for a while on red-hot ashes: when the fowl is done, drain off the fat, and powder a little salt and pepper over it; you then detach the glaze made out of the gravy of the fowl and slices of ham ; pour a little Espagnole, with the juice of a lemon, and send it up with the slices of ham over the four quarters, and four large fried pieces of bread between, of the same dimension as the slices of ham. Mind, this is to be highly seasoned. No. 18.- Fowl with Tarragon Sauce. Take a fine fowl, truss it and poële it as in No.3. When you are going to send it up to table, mask it with tarragon sauce, made as follows: put into a small stew-pan, a few branches of green tarragon, and a wine-glass of white vinegar; let it boil for ten minutes, then add four spoon- fuls of sauce tournée, and thicken with two yolks of eggs. Strain the whole through a tammy, and put to it a small pat of fresh butter, a little lemon-juice, some salt and pep- per, and some leaves of tarragon blanched very green; cover the fowl with this sauce. All other pluches, such as leaves of parsley, chervil, &c. &c. are served up with whole entrées, by which is meant, 155 that the fowl has not been cut in pieces. Then use any sauce you may fancy. No. 19.- Fowl with Cauliflowers. The same as in No. 18; the only difference is, that you boil some cauliflowers in water with a little butter and salt. This you put round the fowl, and then mask both the fowl and cauliflower with a velouté. No. 20.--Cutlets of Fillets of Fowl, with Crumbs of Bread à la Maréchale. TAKE four small fowls; cut off the fillets, without in- juring the filets mignons; cut the merry-thoughts in two. Take off the filets mignons ; pare them in the shape of hearts; and stick the merry-thought bones into the point of the hearts, to give them the appearance of chops : and do the same for all the rest. Season them with pepper and salt; then brush the fillets over with yolks of eggs, and dip them into crumbs of bread; next dip them into clarified butter, and then into crumbs again, Use your knife to level the bread, and broil those fillets over a brisk fire. The fillets being very thin, require only to be lightly browned. Serve under them some thin Espagnole sauce well seasoned. I must here observe to young or inexpe- rienced cooks, that when they have something thin to broil, the fire must be very sharp; and when something thick, the fire must be moderate, as it takes more time to be done through. No. 21.—The Wings of Fowls à la St. Laurent. TAKE three fowls, divide the breasts into two parts, take off the sinews and small bones, season with salt and pepper, &c. brush them as above with yolks of eggs, then 156 dip them into bread, then in clarified butter, and bread again; next broil them in the same manner as above, well seasoned, and send them up with a thin Espagnole. No. 22.-Filets of Fowls sautés au suprême. Take off the fillets of three fowls, which will produce nine fillets, as two of the filets mignons are used to make a large fillet. You then prepare them all alike, and put them into a sauté-pan with some clarified butter and salt, covered with a round of paper buttered, to prevent the fillets from drying, and getting dusty. When you have sautéz the fillets on a sharp fire, drain the butter, but be careful to preserve the gravy of the fowls with a small quantity of the butter : put four spoonfuls of béchamelle and two spoonfuls of double cream. Let them warm gently without boiling, or the fillets would get tough: put likewise a spoonful of consommé, and taste if the seasoning is pala- table. You must mind that this dish is a fine entrée, and must not be too highly seasoned. Send up with sliced bits of bread, fried in butter, and glazed over, which are to be placed between the fillets. The sauce to be poured over the fillets only. No. 23.-Scollops of Fowls with Cucumbers. TAKE off the fillets of three fowls, cut your scollops of the size of a half-crown piece, dip them into some clari- fied butter, in a sauté pan, sautez them over a brisk fire on both sides, and throw them into sauce of cucumbers. No. 24.-Scollops of Fowls with Essence of Cucumbers. These scollops are prepared in the same manner as those above, but the sauce is not the same; cut the cucumbers of the same shape and size as the scollops; keep the parings 158 a little consommé, introduce some of this glaze into the scollops, and as it is always brown, add three or four spoonfuls of thick cream to the sauté, to make the sauce white; season it according to your palate. Do not forget to put the sauce through a tammy to have it very bright. Observation relative to Sautez in general.—Mind, you must never let the sauté be too much done ; these entrées are very difficult to make in perfection. When they are too much done, they are not eatable. It is this point of perfection in the management of cookery which distin- guishes the good from the bad cook. No. 26.-Scollops of Fowl à la Conti, with Truffles. The same quantity of fowls as No. 25, the only diffe- rence is, that you keep the filets mignons, which you lard, one half with bacon and the other with truffles. You must take care that the Conties are not over-done. Those that are larded with bacon, must be well covered with fire, and those that are decorated with truffles must be wrapped up in bacon, and afterwards glazed. Give them the shape you please when you put them into the sauté-pan, either of garlands, rosasses, &c. No. 27.-Scollops of Fowls with Green Peas. These scollops are prepared, and done in the same manner as those above. When they have been sautéz, put them into sauce à blanquette with green peas. No. 28.— Fillets of Fowls à la Chingara. Take the fillets of three fowls, which you divest of the skin and sinews. Mark them as the above, with clarified butter in a sauté pan, together with some slices of boiled 159 ham of the same size. Sautez them over a slow fire; but do not let the fillets be too long on the fire. Let the ham be of a fine colour; glaze it well, and dish it en miroton. Put three spoonfuls of Espagnole into the sauté-pan, after having drained the butter, one spoonful of consommé, two pats of fresh butter, the juice of one lemon, some salt, and a little Cayenne; glaze the bits of ham, and cover the fillets only with this sauce. No. 29.-Blanquette of Fowl marbrée. This dish is one of those that I do not approve of, but it is served at grand dinners. Take off the breasts of three fleshy fowls, wrap them well up in bacon and paper, then roast them; do not let them be too much done. Next lay them aside to cool, Take off the flesh, first from one side, then from the other, which you cut to the size of a half- crown piece, as also some slices of a red tongue; then put into the dish that is to be sent up a miroton of tongue and of fowl; that is, a slice of each alternately, and so on in a spiral line. . Take care to keep the dish quite hot. The moment you are going to send up, cover it with a sauce à blanquette, or à l'Allemande. (See Sauces.) No.30.-Wings of Fowl à la Dauphin. · If you have a very large dinner to send up, and use a great number of fowls, take six fillets off from the same side, which makes no difference with regard to the ex- pense; this dish looks better when the wings are all from the same side : prepare your fillets well, lard them with fine bacon, and then put them into the oven in a well-buttered stew-pan, in order to give them a good shape; when they have got a certain degree of firmness, lay them over slices of bacon, and put under the bacon a bed of vegetables, the same as for a fricandeau, with a 160 little salt, and a good fire over them, in order that the larded part may be seized: the wings will be done in ten minutes; glaze them, and send up with whatever sauce you think proper. Endives with béchamelle, the soubise, and the purée of celery, are however preferable to all others. No. 31.--Pudding, or Boudin à la Reine. This dish is made out of cold fowls. Take the breast and fleshy parts of several fowls, which you cut into small dice, all of an equal size. Throw those dice into a reduction of velouté, and season them well; next put them into a dish that they may cool. When this prepa- ration is quite cold, cut them into two equal parts, which you make into boudins *, of the size of the dish: roll them into crumbs of bread; then dip them into an omelettet, and roll them again in bread. You must take care that the extremities are well covered with the crumbs, other- wise they would break in the frying-pan. When they are fried to a good colour, drain them, wipe off the grease with a clean towel, and serve with a thin velouté, or green pars- ley fried between. No. 32.-Croquettes of Fowl au Velouté. These are prepared in the same manner as the Boudins à la Reine, but you must keep them rather thick, to prevent their shrinking while frying. A little fried parsley is to be put into the middle of the dish, and you erect the croquettes round it. There are several manners of rolling them, as in the shape of a cork, of a ball, of a pear; the tail of which is made out of a carrot, or some other substance, which I do not approve of; those which look the best, are in the shape * A long shape. + Omelette, consists of eggs beat together with a little salt. 161 of a cork. You must press pretty hard on the extremities, that they may stand erect on the dish. To place them in a circular form, with fried parsley in the centre, has a pretty effect, though it is very plain. Those that are in the shape of a pear are called à la Du- baril. There are also croquettes of sweetbreads, of palates of beef, of cocks'-combs : but they are all much alike, as will be shewn hereafter. Croquettes of any kind ought to be made only with remnants of fowl or game, as they require a great quantity of flesh; but they may be made with what is left from the preceding day. No.33.-Hachi, or minced Fowl à la Polonoise. If you have any remnants of fowl, mince them, and put the minced meat into a good béchamelle, without suffering it to boil. Sometimes you may put the whole into a vol au vent, at another time into patties en timballe ; another time you may put it in a bordure with poached eggs over the minced meat. By this means you obtain a variety of dishes : you may likewise send it up in croustades, but these croustades bear the appearance of a dish of the second course. No. 34.--Legs of Fowl en Caneton. Duckling-like. After having prepared the fillets of several fowls, you must contrive to turn the legs to advantage: pull the bones entirely away from the white flesh; but take care not to destroy the knee, which must serve to make the beak of the duck. Cut the bone on both sides the joint, and keep the knuckle. When you have boned the thighs, stuff them moderately with a farce à quenelles; next sew them up with a little thread, and put them into the oven on a flat dish; put over these another flat dish with a weight on it, to give M 162 them a good shape. Leave them in the oven till they are quite firm, that they may retain their shape; next put them into a stew-pan, wrapped up with some bacon; add a few bits of carrot, an onion stuck with a clove, a little bay-leaf, thyme, salt and pepper. Put the knuckles to braize with this; when the whole has simmered gently on the fire for an hour, drain the legs and the knuckles ; take off the thread, and stick the knuckle into the large part of the leg, and it will represent exactly the form of a duckling. Put under it a purée of green peas in summer; and at other times any kind of sauce, sharp or not. No.35.—Legs of Fowl en Balotine. Bone the legs of the fowl; cut the knee entirely off, and the leg just above the joint; then roll the legs, and thrust the claws into the hole of the leg bone : tie them up quite round, and put them between two plafonds with a pretty heavy weight over them, to give them a nice shape. When they are become firm, mark them between layers of bacon, and braize them in the common way: when they are done, drain and glaze them. Send up with any sauce you may fancy. The love-apple, or sharp sauce, will answer the purpose very well. No. 36.- Legs of Fowl à la Orlie. Bone the legs of several fowls, and set them to be ma- rinaded raw in an earthen pan, with the juice of a lemon, a little parsley, thyme, bay-leaves, salt and pepper, &c. &c. When marinaded for three hours, drain them : then beat the white of an egg, mix a little flour with crumbs of bread, and dip the legs first into the white of the egg, and then into the flour and crumbs; next fry them, but mind, your dripping must not be too hot, for if it were so, the legs would get a colouring before they were done enough 163 through. Serve up with the brown sharp sauce, or love- apple sauce. No. 37.-Legs of Fowl à la Dreux. BONE the legs, fill up the vacuity with a force-meat or quenelle; give the legs a round shape, then lard the upper part with small slips of ham, mark them between layers of bacon, and braize them as above. When they are done, glaze and send them up with whatever sauce you think proper. It is to be observed, however, that a glazed dish requires a white sauce, that the glazing may appear to greater advantage. These legs are to be put into a sauté pan on which you have spread layers of bacon. You also put the same over the legs, and cover the whole with the lid of a stew-pan, and over this put a heavy weight, to give the legs a good shape. When they are become suf- ficiently firm over a slow fire, or in the oven, take them out and mark them the same as any other braize *. * The entrées of legs of fowl are not in very great repute, but they are a very great saving of expense, and nothing but prejudice can object to them ; for when they are well made, they are excellent food, and make a very good appearance on table, as they can be served in so many different forms, and with such various flavour. M 2 164 CHAP. IX. ENTRÉES OF FAT CHICKENS. It is almost useless to describe what can be made with fat chickens. Whatever can be made with fowl, can also be made with chicken. The only difference is in the length of time requisite for dressing them. No. 1.-Chickens à l’Ivoire. Take two chickens of the same size and equally white; pick them well and singe them; then thrust your fingers inside to pull out the breast-bone. Having mixed a little butter with the juice of a lemon, and some salt and pep- per, introduce an equal proportion of this mixture into the body of each chicken, and bind them up in a good shape. Then put them into an oval stew-pan, surrounded with layers of bacon: next cut the juicy part of a lemon, and cover the breasts of the chickens with thin slices of it and bacon. Pour some poële over them. The chickens will be done in half an hour's time, and retain their white colour. Drain them, take off the packthread, and send them up with the velouté, or béchamelle. No. 2.- Chickens à la Villeroi ARE dressed in the same manner as those above. The sauce, however, is to be an aspic lié. (See Aspic Sauce.) 165 No. 3.–Chickens à la Montmorenci. TAKE two chickens of the same size, and equally white; bind them up as above ; next have some boiling water, wherein you dip only the breasts of the chickens to make the flesh firm. Then lard them the same as a fricandeau, and put them into an oval stew-pan, surrounded with ba- con, though there is not to be any over them. A large fire is required to seize the bacon; which having acquired a good colour, you remove the fire from over them, and let the chickens boil gently for half an hour : then drain and glaze them nicely, and serve up with a ragoût à la financière. Mind, they must be well done; if any blood should remain in them, the sauce would be spoiled. No. 4.-Chickens à la Condé Are to be dressed as above, but it is useless to dip them into boiling water: slit them equally with a penknife, and introduce between the slits thin slices of truffles and of tongue à l'écarlate; then stew the chickens as mentioned above, and serve up with the ragoût à l'Allemande. No. 5.—Chickens à la Turque. Take two white chickens of the same size, empty them, and dress them up as above. Then have some rice well cleansed and blanched, and boil it in some consommé. When sufficiently swelled and very thick, season it well, and take one halfof it, which you put inside of the chickens; stuff them as full as you possibly can, with the rump turned inside, to prevent the rice from bursting out: then spit the chickens, wrap them up in layers of bacon and paper, and they will be done in one hour. When done, lay them on the rice that remains, into which you pour four spoon- 166 fuls of béchamelle, and one spoonful of thick cream. Sea- son the whole well. Mind that you have the inside of the chicken well washed with boiling water, otherwise the scum of it will spoil the rice. No. 6.-Chickens with Italian Paste. Take two fat pullets as above, dress them in the like manner, but your Italian paste must be in a state of readi- ness, and made very thick, as it has less substance than rice: then stuff the chickens with part of the paste, and mix the remainder with some béchamelle as above. No.7.-Fat Pullets aux Nouilles. TAKE a couple of fat pullets, which dress and prepare as directed in No. 1, and stew them in the same manner. The nouilles are made as follows: take the yolks of four eggs, five spoonfuls of flour, a lump of butter of the size of two eggs, and a little salt; make a paste which you mois- ten with a little water, yet let it be kept thick ; work it hard with your hand, and spread it on the pastry-table with the rolling-pin; mind to powder a large quantity of flour when you cut the paste into dice, to prevent their sticking to the pan: blanch the dice in water with a little salt. Drain them, throw them into cold water, and stew them in consommé; when they are done, drain them again, and toss them in a small quantity of Allemande, or of velouté. You may also pour those sauces over the chickens. The paste may be cut into different shapes, as squares, lozenges, &c. &c. Emincés, or blanquettes, agree very well with the nouilles. No. 8.–Chickens à la Tartare. Take two very young chickens, singe and dress them en poule, by which is meant, that you make a hole above 167 the joint of the leg, and thrust the claws into those holes: then split them in two, break the bones of the legs, and bone the backs and breasts, leaving as few bones as you possibly can; then mould the chickens into a round shape; season them with salt and pepper; take a brush dipped into yolks of eggs, and brush the chickens all over; next dip them into crumbs of bread; have some clarified butter ready,dip them into it, and then into crumbs of bread again, and roll them equally; lay them on something flat, to give them a good shape; half an hour before you send them up, broil them on a clear fire; serve up with gravy, or an Ita- lienne. Observe, that the legs are a long time boiling; ascertain if they are done before you send them up. No. 9.–Fat Pullets à la Givry. Dress two young pullets, and stew them as directed at No.1. The givry is made in the following manner: take some small white onions, which you cut into rings ; select them all of the same size, which you stew in a small quan- tity of consommé; take care your onions are not too much done, for they would break. Then spread these rings at an equal distance over the breasts of the chickens. Have a verd de persil (See Sauces) ready, and put a little in the centre of each ring; the remainder you mix with some sauce tournée, well reduced, and well seasoned; add a little lemon-juice, and a little Cayenne, and pour this sauce un- der the chickens. No. 10.--Chickens à la Barbarie with Truffles. Dress two young chickens as at No. 1. Cut small pieces of truffles in the shape of nails, make a few holes in the breasts of the chickens with a pen-knife, and fill them up equally with the prepared truffles. Then cover the chickens with layers of bacon, and stew them with a poële, as at No. 1, and serve up with an Italienne with truffles. 168 No. 11.–Chickens à la Cardinal. Take a couple of fat chicken, very white, but mind that the skin is not injured, and pick them with the utmost care. Have some of the spawn of lobster ready pounded; intro- duce the handle of a small knife between the skin and the flesh, and thus separate the skin without tearing it; next introduce the red butter between the skin and the flesh very evenly; then truss your chickens in the common way, and poële them as usual, but do not do them too much; let them stew gently, and pour under them a love-apple sauce. No. 12.–Fillets of fat Pullets à la Royale. If you have a large dinner to serve, take the fillets of four chickens, and thus you obtain eight large fillets, and a similar number of filets mignons *; flatten them with the handle of a knife that has been dipped in cold water, to prevent the knife breaking the fillets or sticking to them. Then use the knife to pull off the upper skin, which is very tough ; take out the sinews from the filets mignons, put them into a sauté-pan, after having dipped them into but- ter; then powder them over with salt only, pepper being intended merely for highly seasoned dishes, but disagree- able to a dainty palate. When you are going to serve them, sautez them hastily, drain the butter, pour over them two or three spoonfuls of béchamelle, and one spoonful of thick cream, which you keep stirring for a short time; then send up, dressed en miroton, with the ragoût à la royale in the centre, after having dished the fillets in a circle. The ragoût à la royale is white, and must be com- posed of the following articles : cocks’-combs, kidneys, mushrooms, small quenelles, and truffles if you have any. Observe, that the sauce must be well seasoned. * Filets mignons are the inside small fillets. 170 No. 15.-Fillets of fat Pullets sautez à la Lucullus. Take the fillets of four fat pullets, take off the filets mignons, and pull the sinews from them : flatten them with the back of a knife, and mark them in clarified butter. The larger fillets are to be garnished with truffles, cut into small round slices, as in the contis. Next make three round slits in each fillet, and introduce the sliced truffles within each slit, though not so far as to reach through the fillets, which would break them. When your fillets have been garnished, mark them in clarified butter, and sautez them in the usual way; mind, they must be only under- done, by which is meant, that they are to retain some- what of the reddish hue; but as they are to be kept hot with the sauce, they will soon be thoroughly done, and are always tender. (See Sauce à la Lucullus.) N. B.-For the sauce : strip the legs and loins of the chickens, wash the inside of the lungs clean, and put them into a small stew-pan with a few bits of ham, half a sha- lot, and the parings of the truffles ; let the whole sweat, moistened with a spoonful or two of consommé. When the meat is done through, pour over it some boiling hot consommé, and let it boil for about an hour, then drain the whole on a cloth, or in a double silk sieve; reduce the consommé to a light glaze : this will serve you for different purposes. When you have sautez the fillets, drain the butter; take four spoonfuls of béchamelle, a little of the glaze of fowl and truffles, and a spoonful of thick cream; keep stirring the fillets in the sauce, and dish them alter- nately, a large fillet and a filet mignon. Pour the sauce over the parts that have no truffles on them, and that are not glazed ; if you dress the dish with care, it will be very good. 171 No. 16.-Scollops of Chicken, with Truffles. SEE Scollops of Fowl, No.25, p. 157. You must al- ways reduce to a glaze, a little consommé, into which you have put the parings of the truffles. When reduced, strain it through a sieve, that the parings may not injure the sauce. Then use a small quantity of it with the sauce of the sauté, and add a little cream to whiten the sance. No. 17.-Scollops of fat Pullets à la Conti, with Truffles. The same as above, with the difference only, that you preserve the filets mignons, which you garnish with truffles, and mark them in a sauté pan, in order to be enabled to give them the shape either of garlands, crescents, &c. &c. Butter the sauté pan, and put in the filets mignons, that you have larded with bacon ; divide the thickest part of the fillets, preserve the right side point, turn over the two parts that you have divided, and give them the shape of a dart or arrow. Another time you may convert them into the shape of an S, and dish them round your scollops, which are dressed in the middle in the shape of an obelisk. No. 18.-Scollops of Chicken à l'Essence of Cucumbers. Scollop the fillets of four fat pullets; mark them in a sauté pan with some clarified butter, and a little salt over them: cover them with a round piece of paper till dinner- time. The sauce is to be made in the following manner : take eight very green cucumbers, cut off the ends, and apply the tip of your tongue to taste them: if they should taste bitter, do not use them. Slice those only that are good about the size of a half-crown piece; take out all the seed; and put the parings with a few minced cucum- bers, to sweat in a little butter till they are melted ; 173 No. 21.- Sauté of Fillets of fat Pullets à la Turque. Take the fillets of three fat pullets, tear off the skin, and cut the sinews out of the filets mignons ; stick two together, and you then will have nine fillets : put the whole into a sauté-pan with some clarified butter, and a little salt (never put any pepper into white made dishes), and cover them with paper to prevent the dust. At dinner-time have some rice ready that has swelled in rich consommé; the rice must be kept thick: mix two spoonfuls of béchamelle with it, and a small bit of very fresh butter. This rice is dressed en buisson in the centre of the sauté, which is made in the same manner as the sauté au suprême, with the filets round it. No. 22.--Sauté of Fillets of fat Pullets, sautez au Suprême. See No. 22, page 156, Fillets of fowl au suprême. No. 23.-Wings of fat Pullets à la Dauphine. See No.30, page 159, Wings of fowl à la Dauphine. No. 24.-Boudins of Fillets of Chicken à la Reine. See No. 31, page 160. ' No. 25.–Boudins of Chicken à la Richelieu. Look into the Chapter of Farces, for the method of making quenelles. The boudins à la Richelieu, are the same thing as a farce à queneltes, made of either veal, or fowl, rabbits, whitings, carp, &c. Sweat some white onions that are cut into small dice; when well done, drain them in a hair sieve, in order that there may not be the least particle of butter; work the farce with a wooden spoon before you put the onions in, to prevent their breaking, for it is requi- 174 site that the onions should remain entire in the boudins à la Richelieu. Next let this farce stand to cool. When it is quite cold, roll it in the shape of a pudding of the length of the dish, and poach it in the following manner. After having rolled the puddings, rub with butter a stew-pan large enough to contain the puddings with ease; lay them over the butter; pour some boiling water with a little salt into the stew-pan, and let them boil gently, till you see they are swelled properly: then drain and let them cool. When cold, mould them of an equal size, then dip them into yolks of eggs well beaten, with a little salt, and then slightly into crumbs of bread, next into eggs again, and once more slightly into crumbs of bread : then fry them on a clear fire; they only want to get a fine colour: drain them with a clean towel, dish them, and pour over them an Italienne. Some people make use of the sauce d'attelets ; in that case it must be poured hot over the puddings. When they are cold, and the sauce begins to cool, put some equally with your knife on each square. Dip them into crumbs of bread. Take care that you make them into regular squares; then prepare an omelette, by which is meant yolks and whites of eggs, beat up with a little salt. The puddings are to be dipped only once into this preparation; give them a good colour by frying in very hot dripping; you may serve them sometimes with crumbs of bread, and sometimes white. Epicures will prefer them white, without the crumbs of bread, just at the instant they are poached. No. 26.-Boudins, or Puddings à la Sefton. Make some quenelles of fowl, in which you introduce small mushrooms, cut in the shape of dice; sweat them well over a slow fire. When they are well done, put them into a hair sieve to drain, and mix them with the farce in the same manner as the boudins à la Richelieu; then poach me manner 175 the boudins, and dip them into crumbs of bread, and fry them as the above-mentioned. Reduce the liquor of the mushrooms with four spoonfuls of sauce tournée, and let the whole boil on the corner of the stove to get the butter out. When there is no more fat left in the sauce, give it a good seasoning, and thicken it with the yolks of three eggs and a little cream, and serve it under the boudins. Sometimes serve the boudins without their having been dipped into eggs and crumbs of bread, but then keep the sauce a little thicker, to cover them, and put over each of them two small fillets, larded and glazed of a light colour; put underneath, the sauce made a little thinner. In order to give the larded fillets a proper shape, take a piece of carrot, or a bit of bread of the same shape and size, put over the carrot a thin slice of fat bacon, to prevent the fillets from smelling of it; hind the fillets over the carrot, and put them into the oven till they are firm, then glaze them, and put them over the boudin after having poured the sauce over, which must be thick; when the boudins are covered, put a spoonful of consommé to make the sauce thinner, and put it under. No. 27.—Quenelles of Chicken with clarified Consommé. The quenelles are to be rolled much about the size of a thick cork, and are to be put into a stew-pan rubbed with butter, as directed above. You must have ready some fowl consommé very clear, yet rich: drain the quenelles on a clear cloth, put them into a silver stew-pan, and pour the con- sommé gently over them, that they may not break, and that the consommé may remain clear. Observation. This dish is seldom called for in England. The other quenelles are made in the same manner, but only of various sizes. There are quenelles called à la cuillière, or spoon, which are prepared in the following manner: take two spoons, one of which is always to be kept in hot water; 176 fill the other with some farce, which you shape with a knife: when your quenelle is quite round, with the other spoon you take it out, and put it over some butter in a stew-pan, and so on with the rest. This manner of pre- paring quenelles is also practised in dressing entrées of fish. The farce à quenelles not only makes good entrées, but is indispensably necessary in the making of la Chambord, la financière, le ragoût à l'Allemande, la Godard, la Toulouse, and all garnitures in general. No. 28.-Risolles of Fowls. Risolles were formerly made with a farce fine, either of fowl, or rabbit. (See Farces.) Spread some feuilletage*, and lay at equal distances balls of the farce. Then use the paste-brush over the paste, round the farce, and fold the paste, which you press all round, in order to make the borders stick close together. Then run a videlle goudronnée round the paste, so as to cut the risolles in the shape of a crescent. When you have about two dozen, fry them, and send them up with fried parsley in the middle. Now the risolles are commonly made in the following manner: have some minced fowl, that is, the white fleshy part, which you put into a velouté reduced; give it a good seasoning, and then let it cool. When cold, divide it into small balls, and wrap them up in paste, fry them, and serve up garnished with fried parsley. No. 29.—Croquettes of Chickens au Velouté. Take the flesh of roast chickens, which you cut into small dice of an equal size; put them into a béchamelle re- duced, then let them cool ; next mould them of the shape of a cork; dip them into an omelette, and then into crumbs of bread; lastly, fry them till of a light brown, and serve up * Feuilletage, or puff-paste. 177 with some fried parsley of a good green colour. This requiring a quantity of white flesh of chickens, is termed most naturally an entrée de desserte, remnants of cold chicken. No.30.-Fricassée of Chickens au naturel. Take a couple of fat chickens, empty them, and singe them till the flesh gets firm, in order that they may cut better, and the skin may not be injured, and cover every part of the chickens: some persons neglect this operation, but the flesh of chickens intended for a fricassée, or a raw marinade, must be made firm. Next carve your chickens as neatly as possible, and each will supply you with ten pieces. Take out the lungs, and the spungy substance that is within the loins, and wash the members in luke-warm water; let them disgorge all the blood, and blanch them in boiling water, that the flesh may be made firm, and that you may give the members a good shape; drain them from that water, and put them into cold water; when cooled, put two ounces of fresh butter into a stew-pan, with half a pint of mush- rooms, a bunch of parsley and of small green onions; add the chickens, and put the stew-pan over the fire. When the chickens have been fried lightly, dust a little salt and flour over them; moisten with the liquor they were blanched in. Let them boil for about three quarters of an hour: skim off all the butter and scum; then put the members into another stew-pan, reduce the sauce, and strain it through a tammy over the chickens. This stew-pan is to be put into a bain murie till dinner-time; then thicken the fricassée with the yolk of four eggs and a little cream: it is to be observed, that if the fricassée does not boil, the thick- ening will not be thoroughly done. Some people add a little lemon-juice, but others do not use any, and they are right, for lemon is admissible only in fricassées of a high 180 them all over, that they may be made of a good equal colour; then fry them, but take care that the dripping is not too hot, for fear the chickens should be too brown and not done through; drain them on a clean towel, and serve under them a poivrade, or love-apple sauce. No. 36.-Friteau of fat Chickens. This dish is prepared as that above, but is to be gar- nished with a few fried eggs. Serve up with love-apple sauce. You must select very fresh eggs, and fry them in sweet salad oil. Observe, that you must use very little oil, otherwise the eggs will break to pieces; put a little oil into the corner of the omelette pan, and fry them one by one of a very good colour, and not too much ; then glaze them, and garnish with them. No.37.-Fricassée of Chickens à la Bardoux. This is prepared as that of No. 30. After having thickened your fricassée, take a few onions cut into dice. Sweat them in a little butter, but take care they do not get brown; drain them, put them into the sauce, and cover the fricassée with them. No.38.—The Capilotude of Chickens. This is an entrée of desserte. Take two chickens that have been either roasted or stewed, cut them as for eating, flay them, and mark them in a stew-pan like a salmi: now pour a brown Italienne over them, and let them simmer gently over a slow fire, that the sauce may not stick to the pan Then have thin slices of bread cut into the shape of flat pears, that you fry in butter till they are of a light brown; dish them between the members, glaze the fried bread, and pour the Italienne over the chickens only. 181 No.39.-Members of Chickens au Soleil, or Marinade cuite. This is also an entrée of desserte. The marinade cuite is to be prepared in the following manner : put a little butter into a stew-pan, with four shalots, an onion, and a carrot cut into dice, a little parsley, a few roots of ditto, a bay-leaf, a little thyme, clove, and some spice. Let the whole lay on the fire till the vegetables are of a light brown; then moisten with a little vinegar and water. When the mari- nade is done enough, season it, give it a high relish, then pour it over the members of the chickens; let the whole boil for a minute or two, and let it cool till dinner-time; drain the members, dip them into proper paste, (See Bat- ter) and fry them. Serve under them a brown poivrade. No. 40.—Marinade of Chickens à la Orlie. This is the same as the St. Florentin, No. 35, with the only difference, that you mix a few crumbs of bread with the flour, into which the limbs are to be dipped. • No. 41.-Minced Chickens à la Polonoise. Take the fleshy part of roasted chickens, chop it very small, and put the whole into a well-seasoned béchamelle. Send up in a vol au vent, or a bord de plat, with poached eggs over; if you have a deep dish, send them with fried bread round the dish only. No. 42.-Blanquette of Chickens with green Peas. This dish is made out of roast chickens that have al- ready been served up, otherwise it would be very expensive, as it would require five chickens at least to make it, and it would be but a small dish after all. Cut scollops of 182 chickens as large as possible, give them nearly a round shape; but it matters not whether they are of different sizes : put them into the sauce à blanquette as directed, with white peas, but not till you have thickened the sauce. No. 43.–Soufflé of Chickens à la Crême. This dish is also made of the remnants of roasted chickens : take off the white flesh, and mince it very small, and pound it in a mortar with a little béchamelle, and a good lump of fresh butter, and salt and pepper; with this mix the yolks of four eggs. Strain the whole through a tammy, or a hair sieve; then beat the white of five eggs till made in a single body; mix these with the former preparation, and put the whole in a dish à souffler, or in a croutade that has been raised like the crust of a pâté chaud. It will be done in a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes, according to the quantity. It is to be observed, that if the oven is too hot, the outside of the soufflé will be burnt, although the inside is not done enough. This therefore must be carefully attended to. No. 44.—Gratin of Fillets of Chickens with Velouté. This is likewise an entrée of desserte; mince the flesh of cold roasted chickens, which you put into a velouté well reduced; then make a border to a dish if you are without a deep one, about an inch thick, and put the minced meat in the middle. Your mince must be thick, and levelled with a knife; dust it over with crumbs of bread; pour some drops of clarified butter over the crumbs, then throw some more crumbs over, and again some clarified butter and crumbs of bread. Then give a colouring with the salamander, which you must hold at a distance, otherwise it would spoil the colour, which must be acquired gradu- ally. Next cut pieces of bread in balls, and in the shape 183 of corks, fry them in butter, with which alternately gar- nish your mince all round, and serve up quite hot. Before you put the mince, pour some of the sauce into the dish, to reduce to gratin. No. 45.—Galantine of fat Chickens. Take a nice fleshy chicken, which empty and pick nicely. When picked neatly, bone it without injuring the flesh. Take some slips of ham and some truffles, which cut into bits of the same thickness at least, if you cannot make them of the same length; cut the flesh of the chickens into fillets, and add a few slices of veal ; of these form a kind of bed, in such a manner as that when they are cut the slices may be chequered ; season with all sorts of spices, salt, &c., then close the skin of the chicken, sew up the back, and give it a nice shape before you put it into the stew-pan. You must have some calf's-foot jelly ready, for the chicken is muc hsooner done than the calf's foot; then mark the chicken in a stew-pan, and cover it with layers of bacon; season it with salt and pepper, a bunch of parsley and small onions, some thyme, a bay-leaf, a clove, a little spice, a few carrots, a couple of onions, and some slices of veal; then mix a little broth and a small quantity of the jelly. The chicken must not boil above an hour. Then take it off the fire, and let it cool in the liquor, that the slices may stick together by means of the jelly for were this neglected, the galantine would break to pieces on being cut. If you send it up hot, you may pour over it such sauce as you think proper; but it must be a brown sauce, or sorrel, or onions made brown in an Espagnole: however, it is much better to serve a galantine cold with jelly; take some of the liquor, beat the white of two or three eggs, which mix with the cold jelly after having skimmed off the fat; then again put the whole on the : 184 fire, and keep stirring till the liquor is white; then let it boil gently; next take the jelly off the fire, and lay it aside with a cover and fire over it: when quite clear, strain it through a cloth and let it cool, to be used when wanted. If you serve the jelly cold, season it with more salt and pepper, as above-mentioned. No. 46.-Boudins of Chickens à la Ude. Make these boudins with quenelles, like those à la Richelieu : dip them into crumbs of bread, and fry them to a light brown : make on the top an oblong square opening, empty the boudins, taking care to preserve, however, a coat thick enough to admit a salpicon of chickens, truffles, and mushrooms, cut into small dice and thrown into a well- seasoned béchamelle ; take six filets mignons, as three are wanted for each boudin: give them the shape of the handle of a basket, after having larded them with bacon, or de- corated them en conti, as it is called. Then take a very large carrot, cut it of the same size as the puddings, wrap it up in thin layers of bacon, put the filets mignons over the carrot, and dust a little salt over them: then put the whole into an oven; do not let it be too much done; but of a light brown only. Glaze them when ready to send up the dinner; pour the salpicon into the puddings with the sham basket handles at an equal distance over the puddings: mind, the fillets are not to be thrust in too far, that they may really look like basket handles. This dish is intended for a grand dinner, when common dishes are not to make their ap- pearance. No. 47.-Grenade of Fillets of Chicken. You must have a mould ribbed like a melon; cut very thin layers of bacon ; line the mould with them : then take fillets of chicken larded with bacon, and others de- 185 corated with truffles. Have sweetbreads of lamb already done, one of which put between each rib, and the thickest part of the filets mignons. When you have thus arranged alternately one fillet larded and another decorated with truffles, cover the whole of your fillets with a farce fine. (See Farce Fine.) Put a thick salpicon in the centre, and cover it with the farce ; stick it with force-meat, then put the mould au bain marie, or in the oven, in order to poach the whole at once ; next turn the grenade on a dish à entrées, dry the larded slices with the salamander, and glaze them. When the fillets or slices are of a light brown, uncover the rest, glaze them slightly, and serve them with an Espag- nole *. No. 48.-- Turbans of Fillets of Chickens à la Sultane. Take the filets mignons of chicken, lard them with ba- con; have ready a farce à quenelles, rather thick, which you keep in ice, that it may acquire substance, and be more easily worked ; cut a large piece of bread, which you cover with thin slices of bacon; put the bread in the middle of the dish, then lay the farce à quenelles all round, of about three inches in height; stick the fillets in the farce à quenelles; they are not to be stuck perpendicularly, though at equal distances, leaving a separation between each fillet for the reception of cocks' kidneys. These are to be put in only when you are going to send up: cover your dish with an earthen pot, or a lid that closes herme- tically. The turban is to be put into the oven, and when done, glaze the fillets with the salamander. Make small holes for the admission of the cocks' kidneys, which must be very white, and made to resemble so many pearls. If you have nothing to cover the dish, use layers of bacon; * The grenade is likewise a dish for grand dinners, and is excellent when well dressed. 186 but a plain cover is preferable, as it is free from fat, and the quenelles are better and more easily poached. Take out the large piece of bread; drain the fat off by means of crumbs of bread; and put into the centre of the dish a blanquette of chickens. (See Blanquette.) When in the season of truffles, garnish alternately with a perle or kidney, and a ball made out of a truffle, ready done; and then put scallops with trufiles in the middle. 187 CHAP. X. ENTREES OF PARTRIDGES, YOUNG AND OLD. No. 1.--Whole Partridges à l'Espagnole. It is necessary to observe, that except for partridges with cabbage, or partridges with purée of lentilles, young ones are required : these in general have yellowish claws; but it will sometimes happen that the claws and legs are of a grey, or even of a bluish colour; and yet they may be tender. Look at the extremity of the wing, if it is sharp pointed and whitish, the bird is still tender, but if those marks do not exist, the bird is invariably old, and conse- quently unfit for use, except as above-mentioned; or for sauces, consommés, and cold patties. The size of the dish must determine the number of birds you are to dress ; in general three are wanted; empty them as usual, and take care not to injure the skin : pick them well, mix a little butter, salt, and lemon-juice : put an equal proportion into the body of each bird ; cut off the sinew that is under the joint of the legs, truss the legs up towards the breast, and then sew up the birds in the following manner : first put the packthread needle through the stump of the right wing, then through the thick joint of the leg, and next across the body; then again through the other stump; let the packthread be very tight, and fasten the knot. Now from the back run the needle through the side beneath the leg, then above the pinion below the breast, so as to perforate the breast-bone: let 188 the needle come out from the part parallel to that where first it was introduced, and then from through the side to the back, and fasten the packthread. Give a good shape to the birds; which is an indispensable branch of knowledge in the art of cookery. A man cannot be really a thorough good cook unless he is practically acquainted with every branch of his art; and this branch of it is very important, though it is certainly not easy to teach how to truss poul- try or game by any written direction; you may as well at- tempt to teach drawing without a master. Seasoning and marking may be explained, but practice alone can make a man perfect. Such, however, as have been initiated, may derive great advantage from such a work as this. Put the partridges between layers of bacon, the same as legs of fowl, and pour a poële over them : if you happen to have no poële ready, use some of the pot-top, with a little salt, parsley, and onions, well seasoned with spice, salt, and pepper. They will be done in the course of twenty minutes, but let it be on a slow fire ; drain and put them into the dish, and pour an Espagnole over them, in which you have put a little glaze of game, to give it the taste of game. N. B.-All dishes of game require more seasoning than white fowl. No. 2.- Young Partridges à la Montmorenci. Take some young partridges, which empty, and truss as in No.1; dip the breasts into boiling water; when made firm, dip them immediately in cold water: next lard them with thin slits of bacon ; mark them in a stew-pan with slices of fat bacon all round only, pour a little poële or any other liquid, enough to immerse about one half of the birds. Have a brisk fire over them to seize the bacon; when they have been stewed for twenty minutes glaze them, and probe them near the back; if no blood issues, it is a sign that they 189 are done enough. Drain them, glaze them a second time, and send them up with a ragoût à la financière. No. 3.—Young Partridges à la Barbarie. Truss the birds as in No. 1; instead of butter, stuff them with chopped truffles and rasped bacon, seasoned with salt, pepper, and allspice : then cut small pieces of truffles in the shape of nails; make holes with a penknife in the breasts of the birds, widen the holes with a skewer and fill them with the truffles ; let them be nailed in very regularly. Then mark them as in No. 1. They are to be stewed also in the same manner. Serve under them an Italienne with truffles. N.B.—Take care to drain them well, otherwise the fat will spoil both the taste and look of the sauce. No. 4. - Young Partridges à la Dreux. This is nearly the same as the foregoing dish, only in- stead of using truffles you must lard with small pieces of ham : use the pen-knife to make the holes, as larding-pins would spoil the look of the birds, which are to be served whole. Mark and stew as above, and serve up with the essence of game. No. 5.—Young Partridges à la Crapaudine. Cut off the claws after having emptied and picked the birds; make a hole below the joint of the leg; truss the leg inside of the body; singe the birds over the flame till the flesh gets firm; pinch the breast with your left hand, scollop the breasts without quite reaching the skin, turn the flesh over on the table, beat the bird flat, dust it with * Essence of game is used to give all the flavour of game ; you must con- centrate the taste, by keeping the vessel in which you make the consommé, hermetically covered : and by not putting too much seasoning, which would cover the flavour of the birds. 190 a little salt and pepper; then dip it twice into clarified butter and crumbs of bread; broil it, and send it up with an Italienne, or essence of game. . No. 6.--Young Partridges à la Givry. In this case you add a decoration to the birds, in the fol- lowing manner, after having trussed and stewed them as in No. 1. At dinner-time take rings of white onions, let them be stewed white in a little consommé, then take a cutter of time size as the inside of the rings of the onions, cut and pieces of truffles that have been braized with the birds; mind, the truffles must be of a very black colour: (the parings are to be chopped and mixed with the Italienne :) the round pieces of truffles are to be put over the breasts of the birds, three on each side, Mosaic fashion, and the rings of onions round the truffles, and one over the pouch. If the truffles do not stick well, use a little glaze to make them stick, as they are liable to fall off. Do not mask with the sauce, which must be poured into the bottom of the dish; the sauce must be an Italienne with truffles, mix with it a little glaze of game, to give the taste of it. No. 7.—Compotte of young Partridges à blanc. TAKE four young partridges, cut off the claws, and truss them with the legs inwards; next singe them. Then take a few pieces of the breast of bacon, which cụt into the size of small corks, and boil in water for half an hour. Next fry them white, and take them off from the fire as soon as they are done. Now fry the partridges white also, in butter and the fat of the bacon. When they are quite firm, take them out of the stew-pan. Then throw a spoonful of flour into the butter; fry this flour white. Next pour in a little broth till the sauce is thin enough to be skimmed, (for it is to be observed, that if a sauce is 191 too thick it can never be skimmed), then put in some parings of mushrooms, a bunch of parsley and green onions, and season with a little thyme, bay-leaves, a clove, a little salt, and a very small lump of sugar. Stew the birds in this sauce, the same as a fricassée of chickens ; if onions are agreeable, put a few small ones to give a relish. When the compotte is done, skim off all the fat, and drain the partridges in a clean stew-pan; drain all the bacon and mushrooms, which you throw into the stew-pan with the partridges ; reduce the sauce after has been skimmed; strain it through a tammy over- birds, and put the stew-pan au bain marie : now take some small white onions of an equal size, which have been boiling in a little consommé with a small lump of sugar; have also some mushrooms, fried white in butter; when the onions and mushrooms are ready, set the compotle a boiling; thicken the sauce with the yolks of four eggs beat with a little cream and lemon-juice; next put in the small onions, mushrooms, and bacon, with some quenelles, if you think proper to garnish your entrée. If the dish is of a large size, put a crust of bread, cut into the shape of cocks’- combs, and glazed, between each bird, and send up with a good seasoning. No. 8.—Compotte of young Partridges à brun. Do exactly the same thing as in No.7; instead of moist- ening with consommé, use gravy of veal. Sweat the onions in a little butter till they are of a fine brown, then let them boil in a little gravy of veal; they should be of an equal size; give them a good colour. Add truffles and mush- rooms, if you have any. No. 9.— Partridges and Cabbages, dressed. Take a couple of old partridges, empty and truss them, with the legs inward ; simmer them on the fire till they get firm. Blanch two cabbages, that you have cut in halves; 192 when the cabbages are blanched, put them into cold water to cool, cut off the tops of the middle, squeeze them so as to leave no water; have also blanched about a pound and a half of breast of bacon with the cabbage ; put this bacon into a small braizing-pan, and the birds close to the bacon. Next put in the cabbage, a few carrots turned round, two or three onions, a bunch of parsley seasoned with salt, and a small quantity of allspice, bay-leaves, thyme, salt and pepper: cover the whole with a few layers of ba- con, and with a sheet of buttered paper; then moisten with a braize, have any, if not, take some of the pot-top, but in the latter case you must season a little more. Set the contents of the braizing-pan boiling, and this being done, put it over a slow fire for three hours and a half. Now take out the layers of bacon, the onions, and the carrots. Place a large sieve over a dish of the same size, turn the birds into the sieve, take a clean towel, mould the cabbages into a large roller, squeeze them so as to have no fat left; then take a plain mould, garnish it with very thin layers of bacon, make a kind of flower in the middle of the mould with the carrots, and put a border of small glazed onions all round the top; next take some of the cabbage with a ladle, with which fill the mould. At the same time let the birds be covered all over with the cabbage equally on all sides. Make a rosasse of carrots on each face of the mould, which fill to the brim. Then put it into the oven to keep warm. At dinner-time turn the mould into a dish, let it lay for a moment to drain out all the broth, and send up with a nice Espagnole over it. Partridges with cabbages, in my opinion, are far superior when not put into a mould; squeeze the cabbage the same as before in a clean towel, to give it the shape of a large rolling-pin, then take the two ends of it to make a bed for the bird on the dish; cut the cabbages of an equal size, dress them round the partridges with a carrot between each cabbage; put also some sausages, and 194 you have large fillets, glaze the fried bread lightly, then dish the sauté in the following manner : a crouton, and next a large fillet with the thick end upwards, then a filet mignon with the point upwards, then again a crouton, &c. &c. as above. Mask the fillets only, not the croutons, and send up to table. No. 11.–Cutlets of young Partridges en Epigramme, with Truffles. Take five young partridges, flay them as above; take off, first the fillets, and next the filets mignons; tear off the second skin from the fillets, point the smallest bone of the pinion, and stick it into the end of the fillet. Then season with salt and pepper; rub the fillets over with a brush that has been dipped into the yolk of an egg; then dip them into crumbs of bread, next into clarified butter; and again into crumbs of bread; just before dinner-time broil them on a very sharp fire. Sautez the filets mignons, of which you make a blanquette, in which you must mix some glaze of game. Put the blanquette into the middle of the dish, and the broiled fillets all round. Mask the fillets with some light glaze of game. ----- - - - - - No. 12.–Sauté of Fillets of young Partridges à la Sefton. Take five young partridges, as tender as possible, and of an equal size, flay them, take up the fillets, and tear off the second skin. Next slit the fillets at three equal distances : have ready some truffles that are chamfered and cut into the shape of cocks’-combs, take about eight of these slices of truffles, lay them equally over one another, and introduce some into each of the slits that you have made, and next into the other two parts: take care not to make the slits too deep; do the same with regard to every one of the ten fillets. The filets mignons are only to be marked in clarified butter; 195 do not forget to pull off the sinews, to prevent the fillets from taking a bad shape while frying. Mark the fillets in a sauté pan with butter and round slices of truffles of an equal size, and sautez the fillets when dinner-time is at hand. For the sauce, see Sauce à la Lucullus; next drain the butter, put the round truffles cut in halves on the sauce, and keep the other halves to lay over the fillets. Make a kind of coronet with the large fillets, and dish the blan- quette in the middle, standing nearly upright, by which is meant, that you are to press upon each intermediate one. This entrée has a fine appearance when dished properly. No. 13.-Croquettes of young Partridges. The same process as in No. 29, page 176. (Croquettes of Chickens.) Only add a little glaze of game to the bé- chamelle. Let the croquettes cool, and dip them into yolks of egg and crumbs of bread, as in No. 29, page 176. No. 14.--Soufflé of young Partridges. Take the flesh of roasted partridges, which chop and pound in a mortar, with a few spoonfuls of velouté, and a lump of butter: season the whole well. Mix with this purée the yolks of four or five eggs, and strain the whole through a sieve. Then put it into a bason. Beat well the whites of six eggs, which you mix lightly with the purée. Let the whole be put into a dish à soufflé, and baked in the oven for twenty minutes ; take care it does not burn at the top, which may be prevented by covering it with paper. No. 15.— Purée of Game à l' Espagnole. This is an entrée of desserte. Take the fleshy parts of young partridges that have been in a salmi, chop and pound them well. Warm the sauce, in which some fried bread is left simmering. Then throw the pounded meat into the sauce. Strain the whole through a tammy. You need o 2 196 not put any seasoning, if the salmi is seasoned enough. If you should be asked for purée of game, you must make a sauce à salmi, the same as below, and put the pounded flesh of young partridges into the sauce. This purée is to be sent up in a deep dish, and covered with poached eggs. This entrée is likewise very acceptable in a casserole au ris, a vol au vent, in croustades, &c. No. 16.-Salmi of young Partridges à l'Espagnole. Take five young partridges, rather stale, roast them un- der-done, but let them be covered with paper, for fear they should get brown while roasting; mind, they must be kept as under-done as possible. Then carve the birds as if for eating; by which is meant the wings, legs, and breast; flay them entirely, so as not to leave a particle of skin ; trim them nicely, and mark them in a clean stew-pan; cover it, and let the whole cool till the sauce is ready. Take four or five shalots, some slips of ham, a carrot cut into dice, three or four mushrooms, a little parsley-root, a bay-leaf, a little thyme, two cloves, eight grains of corn pepper, and as many grains of allspice, fry all these ingredients in a stew- pan with a little butter, and when fried lightly, moisten with three glasses of Madeira wine, six spoonfuls of Espag- nole, and two spoonfuls of consommé ; then put all the parings of the birds, namely, the loins and skin, but not the claws, as they would give a bad taste. Let them stew for an hour and a half on the corner of the stove; skim off the fat, put in a small bit of sugar to counteract the bitter taste of the lungs, and strain the sauce through a tammy over the limbs ; put the salmi au bain marie, and send up. with fried slices of bread cut into the shape of a kite, or of bellows. If by chance you are short of Espagnole, niake a little roux, and moisten with some gravy of veal, and a few glasses of wine. 197 No. 17.-Young Partridges à la Monglas. This is also an entrée of desserte. Take three roasted or stewed birds; they must be whole; cut out the whole of the breast in a square piece, so as to form a square aper- ture; clean away from the interior all the spongy sub- stance, in order to put a salpicon inside of the breasts of the birds. The salpicon * is to be made in the following manner : cut into very small dice the flesh that you have taken up; cut likewise small dice of tongue and of mush- rooms; if you have any truffles by you, a few may be added. Reduce a little velouté, with which you mix some glaze of game. Put the dice of meat into the velouté, sea- son well, and put the salpicon into the aperture. Lay with a paste-brush some yolk of egg all over, and put some crumbs of bread over the eggs, then some butter over that, and crumbs of bread again ; use the salamander to give a colouring to the birds. Next keep the whole hot in an oven, and send up with an Espagnole of game. By putting a little glaze of game in the brown sauce, it gives the taste of game. No. 18.--Young Partridges en surprise. Do as above, but instead of a salpicon make a mince of fillets of partridges only, with which stuff the birds. Dip them into eggs and crumbs of bread as above, fry them of a nice colour, and send up with a suprême of game. This sauce must be white; as you put some glaze of game into a white béchamelle, and use white sauce for the mince. * As the meat taken from the body of the bird is not sufficient to fill it again, if you have not some of the same sort of meat, it is necessary to use the various articles mentioned, as tongue, mushrooms, &c. to fill up the body. 198 No. 19.--Quenelles of young Partridges au fumet. MAKE the quenelles as directed in its proper place, only they are to be made of the meat of young partridges. You may send them up in different ways, au consommé clair, or à l'essence, &c. &c. (See Sauces.) No. 20.- Boudins of young Partridges. Make boudins de quenelles of young partridges ; butter the bottom of a stew-pan, lay the boudins over the butter, and pour some boiling water over them, with a little salt. When poached, drain them, and lay them to cool: when cold, dip them into an omelette and crumbs of bread : next fry them. Drain them well, till not a particle of dripping is left, and send up with a white Italienne under it. If you wish to send them up broiled, you must use yolks of eggs, next crumbs of bread, then butter and crumbs again, be- fore you broil them. No. 21.--Quenelles of Partridges à la Sefton. Take the flesh of three very young partridges, and make it into quenelles, as directed at that article. When the que- nelles are made, and are quite cold in ice, mould three boudins of the size of the dish, and poach them in the usual way. For the sauce, take four spoonfuls of béchamelle, and mix with it two spoonfuls of glaze of game, three spoon- fuls of double cream, a little salt, and very little Cayenne; work the sauce very fine, and cover the quenelles with it. This entrée is most delicate, when well dressed. 199 CHAP. XI. RABBITS. No. 1.-— Fillets of young Rabbits à la Orlie. It is to be observed, that warren rabbits only ought to be sent up to a good table, tame rabbits in general having no savour but that of cabbage; and you must be particu- lar in using for table only young rabbits; this you may ascertain, by breaking the jaw between your thumb and finger; if they are old, they resist the pressure: feel also in the joint of the paw for a little nut; if it is gone, the rabbit is old, and not fit for fine cookery; in such case, use them to make rabbit. puddings or pies. Take four rabbits; detach the fillets, and filets mignons : cut the large fillets of an equal size : marinade them in lemon-juice, a little parsley, a shalot cut into slices, a little thyme, a bay-leaf, salt, pepper, &c. &c. leave them in that marinade for two hours. Drain, and dip them into the white of an egy that has been well beaten, and then into some four mixed with a few crumbs of bread. Fry them of a fine brown, and serve under them a poivrade, or an Espagnole of game; observe particularly, that the fillets must be under-done. No. 2.- Turban of Fillets of Rabbits à la Sultane. TAKE the fillets of four rabbits; there will be eight; likewise the filets mignons and kidneys; lard the eight fillets with very small slips of bacon all of an equal size. Have a 200 furce à quenelles ready made out of the flesh of the legs of the rabbits. It would be requisite to have a kind of paste- cutter, very deep, or a sweetmeat pot to put into the mid- dle of the dish, that you may raise the turban all round it; in this case the fat might be more easily drained, which is always very abundant, if you do not place a mould in the centre of the dish. Take a large piece of stale bread, cover it with a thin layer of bacon, lay it in the middle of the dish, and dress the farce à quenelles equally round on it; then with the handle of a wooden spoon mark eight ribs, leaving an interval between each, not straight, but rather sloping; put the fillets of rabbits inside each of those ribs; and after having skinned the kidneys, put them into four of the intervals, two by two; in the other four put fillets of truffles. You may give to this dish a superb appearance. Mind to turn the pointed extremity of the fillets inside of the turban, otherwise they would not stick. Cover the whole with layers of bacon. If you have an earthen pan that may cover the whole hermetically, lay it over, with- out using the layers of bacon. The steam alone will pre- vent the fillets from getting dry. When the turban has been kept in the oven long enough to be well baked, glaze the fillets of a light brown, and put them into the oven again; take the lump of bread out from the middle of the dish, and wipe off all the fat. When going to send up, put a mince of rabbits in the middle of the dish, and sauce the outside with a very good fumet of rabbit. To make the fumet of rabbits, you must use all the rabbit-bones, with a little veal, ham, mushrooms, parsley, and green onions, &c. &c. and when that consommé has been made in the usual way, reduce it, and then put some of the reduction with some béchamelle, to sauce the turban or any other entrée of rabbits with. Whether the sauce is to be white or brown, you must always give it the taste of rabbits. 202 them on a sheet of paper, of the size of a shilling, and put them into the sauce à blanquette aux pois. (See Sauces.) This entrée is sent up in a vol au vent, a casserole with rice, &c. &c. . No. 6.-Scollops of Rabbits au fumet. Take five rabbits; detach the fillets, sautez them in cla- rified butter. When done cut them as for a blanquette, and put them into a sauce made as follows: make a consommé with the remnants of the rabbits; put a few slices of West- moreland ham in a small stew-pan, with some pieces of veal, &c. put the bones of the rabbits over them; then moisten with two spoonfuls of first broth. Let the meat sweat thoroughly, till, on thrusting your knife into it, nei- ther scum nor blood issue. Then fill the stew-pan with boiling broth, seasoned with a bunch of parsley, green onions, thyme, bay-leaves, and a few mushrooms. When the consommé is done enough, put a small lump of butter into a stew-pan on the fire, and as soon as the butter is melted, throw in a spoonful of flour : let the flour fry a little in the butter, without however getting brown. Next moisten with the consommé. Let this sauce boil gently on the corner of the stove for an hour. Skim the grease off carefully, then reduce the sauce, and thicken it with the yolks of three eggs well beaten with some cream. Strain this sauce through a tammy over the scollops, and send up quite hot. This entrée may be served either with or with- out contis, in a casserole with rice, a vol au vent, or a bor- dure of mashed potatoes. This sauce being made in the same way as any other sauce for blanquette, if you should have any other entrées that require white sauces, by keeping a little of this, you will save at once expense and trouble. 203 No. 7.--Scollops of Rabbits à la Conti. See No.6. Only keep two fillets, which you divide into four pieces, cross-ways. Flatten them a little with the handle of your knife; lard them with thin slips of bacon. Then butter a sauté pan. Give the above pieces whatever shape you may think proper, powder a little salt over them, and bake them. Do not let them be too long in the oven; glaze them nicely, and dish them round the scollops. No. 8.-Young Rabbits en friteau. TAKE several very young rabbits; skin them and cut them in four, according to the size; let them be marinaded as in No. 1 of this Chapter. Drain them and dip them into flour; then fry them till of a light brown. Serve up with a poivrade, or a love-apple sauce. No. 9.-- Rabbits à la Vénitienne. Take three young rabbits; skin and empty them nicely, then cut them into pieces in the following manner : take up the shoulders, then the head from the neck, divide the back into four parts; take off the legs on each side of the saddle, and cut them into two pieces. Have ready half a pottle of mushrooms chopped very fine, with parsley and shalots the same. Put a small lump of butter into a stew- pan with a little rasped bacon: put the sweet herbs on the fire with a little salt, pepper, and allspice : let them stew for a short time on a slow fire. When sufficiently fried, put in the rabbits, make them get firm with these sweet herbs, till they are sufficiently done. Take the limbs out from the seasoning, lean the stew-pan sideways to skim the fat that comes uppermost, put a spoonful of sauce tournée, or if you have none, add to it a small tea-spoonful 204 of four, moistened with a spoonful or two of consommé, let it boil a few minutes, and make a thickening of the yolks of four eggs; put the juice of a lemon and a little Cayenne pepper; stir the sauce well : if it happens to be too thick, make it thinner with a spoonful of broth : keep it quite hot, throw the members into the sauce again, and send up quite hot. This sauce must be rather highly seasoned. No. 10.- Rabbits en caisses. Make cases of paper, either square or round; do the rabbits as above with sweet herbs; when nearly done, put them into the paper cases and the sweet herbs over them, with the rasped crust of a two-penny French loaf, to ab- sorb the fat. Then put the paper cases into an oven. Before you send up squeeze over it the juice of a lemon, and pour in a few spoonfuls of Espagnole. No. 11.–Giblottes of Rabbits. Take two young rabbits to make a giblotte; but observe, they must be both alike as to quality; if you put a young one with an old one, the young one will be done to rags, when the other will scarcely be done at all. Skin them, and cut them into pieces as above. Have ready some pieces of breast of bacon cut into the shape of small corks, which are blanched in order that they may not be briny. Fry them in the stew-pan with a little butter, to give them a light brown colour. Take the bacon out of the stew-pan, and put the members of the rabbits into it; when made firm, take them out also; throw a good handful of flour with the butter into the stew-pan, let it get a little brown; next moisten with some gravy of veal. Let the sauce boil a little, to see whether it is not too thick; if so, you will never be able to skim the fat off, and accordingly it will never be of a good colour. When sufficiently stewed, put 205 in the members, bacon, a bunch of parsley and green onions, thyme, bay-leaf, clove, &c. &c.; and when the sauce has boiled for an hour, put the members into another clean stew-pan, and drain the sauce through a tammy, then take some turned mushrooms, and some small onions, and fry them white in butter; let them boil for a quarter of an hour in the sauce. When you are going to send up, dish first the members, next the small white onions, and then the bacon and the mushrooms over. Take off the fat and scum, otherwise there can be no good cookery; and cover the whole with the sauce when reduced. No. 12.--White Giblottes of Rabbits. Do as above, but after having dredged with flour, and moistened with consommé, let the whole stew for about an hour. Next take off all the scum and fat: shift the mem- bers into another clean stew-pan; reduce the sauce, strain it through a tammy over the members, lay the giblotte on the fire, and when it boils, thicken it with the yolks of four eggs, and the juice of a lemon. This sauce, although white, must be highly seasoned. Note, if you want to make the giblotte whiter, disgorge the rabbits, and blanch them. No. 13.--Fillets of young Rabbits en lorgnettes. TAKE the fillets of four young rabbits that have been skinned ; lard them with thin bits of bacon; when larded,, make an opening on the thickest part, by thrusting your knife nearly to the very extremity. Then run the knife in, but no farther than the middle ; and so on with the rest. Put a little butter into a sauté pan; thrust your finger into the opening, and put into it some carrot or turnip to keep it open ; give those parts the shape of a lorgnette, or eye- glass; put them for a moment into an oven, that they may 206 take a good form. When firm, mark them in a stew-pan, over a bed of minced roots and vegetables, covered with bacon, seasoned with salt, pepper, thyme, bay-leaves, &c. &c. and moisten with two spoonfuls of consommé. Let the whole stew for a quarter of an hour, or twenty minutes; drain the fillets, reduce the liquor, to which add a little glaze of a light colour, and send up with endives au velouté, or a soubise. (See Sauces.) Dish en miroton, and pour the sauce in the middle. Mind, this sauce must not be too liquid. No. 14.—Hot raised Pie of Rabbits. Take one or two rabbits, according to the size of your pie. Skin and empty them; then detach the legs and shoulders, which you cut into halves : from the head to the tail cut out four pieces of an equal size ; then chop a shalot, a little parsley, and a few mushrooms, and stew them a little; next put the members into the butter with the sweet herbs, till the flesh is quite firm; then season with salt, pepper, and spices. In the course of a few mi- nutes drain the butter. Then make a paste (See Pastry); put the limbs into it, and put the whole into the oven. When the crust is baked enough, make a round opening, lift up this kind of cover, and just as you are going to send up, pour into the pie a ragoût à la financière over the rabbits. Be careful to drain the fat that may have remained. N. B. The above is the true manner of making a raised pie of rabbits. Many people make a pie-crust, which is commonly called croustade ; and after having emptied it, put in a giblotte. The former method however is prefer- able, as it retains better the flavour of rabbit. 207 No. 15.-Quenelles of Rabbits. This farce is made like the generality of quenelles: the only difference is, that you take the flesh of rabbits instead of any other meat. The legs, in general, are used for making the quenelles; the fillets will supply you with another entrée ; so will the legs occasionally. The bones and the parings are used to make the consommé and sauces. No. 16.-Gratin of Rabbits. This is an entrée of desserte *; take a couple of roasted rabbits ; take off the whole of the fleshy parts; then pare those that have sinews about them; mince the meat very fine, and put this mince into a velouté sauce reduced : take a little of the liquor, which gratinez (by gratiné is meant, to boil it in a silver dish, till it sticks at the bottom with- out burning). When the preparation is cold, stick a border of soft bread all round the inside of the dish, and put your mince into the middle: level it well with a knife: then powder crumbs of bread over it, which baste with melted butter; and then put crumbs a second time; and baste with butter again. Then make it brown all over with a salamander, because if you were to put the dish into an oven hot enough to give it a colouring, the gratin would burn. Keep it hot, and send it up either with slices of bread fried in butter all round the dish, cut in the shape of corks, or with flowrets made of puff-paste. No. 17.-Soufflé of Rabbits. This is also an entrée of desserte. Take off the flesh of roasted rabbits, chop it very fine, and pound it: pour into it a few spoonfuls of velouté, season it well. Break half a * Desserte, is any thing left from the preceding day. 209 No. 20.-Boudins of Rabbits à la Richelieu Take some quenelles of rabbits, and fry some white onions of a light colour. Put them into a hair sieve to drain the butter, and then mix them with the quenelles; let them cool, and roll it into two boudins of the same length as your dish. Poach them in water with a little salt; when done, drain them on a clean cloth, and let them cool.* Next dip them into an omelette, and then in crumbs, and fry them till they are of a light brown. Send up with an Italienne under. No. 21.--Legs of Rabbits à la Maintenon. BONE the legs of the rabbits. Have ready some sweated herbs, the same as for Maintenon cutlets, with a little rasped bacon, salt, pepper, spices, &c. Stew, the legs in those herbs till they are done through. Let them cool. When cold, cut slips of paper of the size of the legs, or they may be a little larger. Then take small layers of bacon, lay one on the paper, and the leg over the bacon, then a little seasoning, and another layer of bacon; wrap the whole in the paper, which is to be plaited equally all round. Then broil them over a slow fire, and send up hot, with no other sauce but the seasoning of the herbs. No. 22.-Rissoles of Rabbits. Take the remnants of roasted rabbits, with which make a farce fine. (See Farce Fine.) Spread on the table some puff-paste, but do not let it be too rich; cover it, at equal distances, with little lumps of farce ; moisten the paste all round the farce, then fold it in two; lean upon it all round * You may serve them, when hot, covered with a good béchamelle : they have not so good an appearance, but they are better eating. P : 210 with your fingers, that the paste may stick; then with a rowel cut it and fry it till it is of a fine brown colour. You may occasionally dip them into eggs, and then powder them over with crumbs of bread ; they by that means fry of a better colour, but it makes the crust thicker. You must always send them up with fried parsley in the middle of the dish. No. 23.–Boudins of Rabbits à la Lucullus. Make boudins of rabbits with quenelles of the same length as the dish ; poach them in milk and butter, and a little salt. When done enough, drain them on a clean towel. Cut one side flat, that they may dish well ; have a little velouté reduced, and pretty thick, which whiten with a little thick cream. Mask the boudins with this sauce, but do not use more than is requisite for masking: in the mid- dle you are to serve a ragoût à l'Allemande, which is the same thing as a Toulouse. You must have six fillets larded equally. Take a very large carrot, cover it with thin layers of bacon, and lay the fillets over the carrot with a little salt : let them stand a moment in the oven till they are firm : then glaze and dry them with the salamander: glaze them a second time: then lay a fillet at each end of the boudin, and one in the middle. Mind that you keep this entrée well covered, for otherwise it would not be of a fine colour; the velouté would dry up, and consequently it would not preserve its white colour. No. 24.- Fillets of Rabbits à la Maréchalle. TAKE the fillets of four young rabbits ; divide each of them into two pieces, in order that they may not be too long: flatten them with the back of your knife, that they may be sooner done; let them be of an equal size; season 211 them with salt and pepper; then brush them over with the yolks of eggs, and dip them into crumbs of bread, next into clarified butter, and then again into crumbs of bread, but so as to lay very evenly. Press the fillets between both your hands, in order to melt the butter, and that the crumbs may stick equally all round. Broil them on a brisk fire, always observing that the thinner and the more ten- der the objects, the more brisk must the fire be; for if it were not so, the fillets would get over-done, without being of a nice brown. Glaze and dish them en miroton, mask them with a brown Italienne mixed with a small quantity of glaze of game. No. 25.--Fillets of Rabbits à la Pompadour. TAKE the fillets of four young rabbits ; cut each fillet into two, lengthways, and keep them as long as possible. Make a sauce d'attelets (See Sauce d'Attelets), put the fillets into the seasoning after having dusted them over with salt and pepper. Let this preparation cool, without however getting quite cold, yet sufficiently so as to enable you to lay some round the fillets. Next dip the fillets once into crumbs of bread : then break three eggs into an earthen pan with a little salt, beat them, throw in the fillets, dip them again lightly a second time into crumbs of bread, and fry them of a nice colour. Dish them in the shape of a pile, which could not be done if they were not kept crisp. Send up with the sauce à la Pompadour in the middle. No. 26.-Attereaux of Rabbits à l'Italienne. TAKE the fillets of four young rabbits ; cut them into pieces of an inch square; then have some mushrooms, parsley, and shalots, chopped fine; put them to fry gently in a small bit of butter over a slow fire till they are done, then put the bits of rabbits to fry gently in those herbs; P 2 212 . and when nearly done, drain them, and season them with a little salt and pepper ; take the sweet herbs with which they have been stewed, and make a sauce d'attelets in the following manner: put a spoonful of flour to the herbs, and mix it well with a wooden spoon; moisten with a few spoonfuls of good consommé ; let the whole boil till the flour is quite done; skim off the butter; reduce the sauce thick, and then thicken it with the yolks of two eggs; throw into this the square pieces you have prepared; then let them get quite cold ; next take some silver skewers, have a few pieces of calf's udder ready done, of half the breadth of the pieces of rabbits, but not so thick ; run a skewer first through one of the pieces of rabbit, dipped into the sauce, and next through a piece of the udder, and so on ; observing however, to have a piece of rabbit at each end. Do not stuff the attelet too full, for some of it must project at each end. Put plenty of the sauce, and give a square shape to the above preparation; then dip it into crumbs of bread; next, when of a good shape, into an omelette well seasoned: and into crumbs of bread a se- cond time; then fry it till of a fine colour, and send up with a brown Italienne mixed with a little glaze of rabbit, or the white sharp sauce. There are many entrées of rabbits, which I omit men- tioning in this present edition ; such as the bressole, pains of rabbits, profitrolles, &c. &c. which are now quite out of fashion, for fashion prevails in our art as in all others. A veteran cook may still make good dishes, but they will not catch the eye, as the phrase goes. In the common way many entrées may be made with the legs of rabbits; but as many dishes of game are not to be sent up at a time, provided you have fillets, it is better to use the legs for farces, or petty patties, or croquettes, &c. &c. 213 No. 27.- Rabbits and Onions. As this dish is of the English school, it will not require many observations; but I shall recommend that old rab- bits be never used, as they always spoil both the taste and the look. Take one or two rabbits, skin them and skewer them as for boiling; put them into warm water in order to extract all the blood: when they are very white, boil them in boil- ing water and a little salt, to prevent them from skimming. An hour is sufficient to boil them if they are young ; the sauce as follows: peel a dozen of white onions, cut the tops and the tails off, then cut them into six pieces, put them to boil in boiling water and a little salt; when nearly done, drain them on a sieve, put them into a clean towel, squeeze out the water, then chop them very fine on the table; put them into a stew-pan, with half a quarter of a pound of butter, let them fry to drain the water away: then put half a spoonful of flour, mix well together, and moisten with cream or milk, according to your means; cream is prefer- able: next let this sauce reduce on a sharp fire, put some salt and pepper to it, and make it rather thick. Drain the rabbits, and cover them with this sauce. No. 28.—Rabbit Soup. This soup is made almost in the same way as the soup à la Reine. Take the fillets of four rabbits to make an en- trée, and with the legs and shoulders make the soup as follows: put them into warm water to take out the blood; when quite clean, put them into a stew-pan with a bundle of parsley and a ladleful of good broth; put all this to simmer over a slow fire; when done through, moisten with some good broth. Season it of a good taste, and let it boil for an hour only: if you let it boil too long, the soup 214 will be brown: next take the meat out of the broth, drain it, and let it cool, then pick all the meat from the bones, and put it into the mortar, with four yolks of eggs boiled hard, and the crumb of a penny loaf soaked in a little broth; pound all this very fine; rub it through a tammy, moisten with the broth, and when done, add to it a pint of double cream that has boiled; mix all together, and serve up; take particular notice, that this soup must be very white; sometimes you give it with vermicelli, some- times with pearl barley, sometimes with rice; on all occa- sions, each of these articles must be done separately in broth, and put into the soup afterwards. If you should be with a nobleman who has an abundance of rabbits, you may use also the fillets, as the soup will then be whiter and better. 215 CHAP. XII. HARES AND LEVERETS. It is proper to observe, that hares are fit to be sent up to a nobleman's table, only when they still shew their age. In order to judge of their age, feel the first joint of the fore claw: if you find a small nut, the animal is still young: should this nut have disappeared, turn the claw sideways, and if the joint crack, that is a sign of its being still ten- der; if not, it is only fit to be made en daube, or en civet: but if very tough, a daube is preferable; yet it is a very insignificant dish, particularly as it requires high season- ing; it is too nourishing to be sent up to the table of any nobleman, or of a real epicure. No. 1.-Hare en Daube. AFTER having skinned, emptied, and washed off the blood of a hare, cut it through the middle. Have ready layers of bacon well seasoned with chopped parsley, spices, salt and pepper. Lard the hare as thick as you can ; put slices of bacon into the bottom of a stew-pan, cover them with the bits of hare, tie up a large bundle of parsley, sea- soned with thyme, bay-leaves, sweet bazil, a clove and common spices, a few carrots, four large white onions, two calf's feet, and a few pieces of breast of bacon; season the whole with salt, pepper, &c. and a few roots of parsley. Moisten with a couple of spoonfuls of broth, and a pint of white wine; cover the whole with a round of buttered paper, 216 to prevent the hare from getting dry; close it hermetically, and let it stew for three hours as gently as possible: then take it off the fire; drain the hare; skim the liquor, strain it through a silk sieve, and let it cool, that it may be eaten cold, though it may be served hot, with a garnish all round. In this latter case make a roux with a little flour and but- ter; when of a very light colour, moisten it with the liquor in which the hare has been stewed, and let it boil enough for the flour to be done, and then send it up, plain as it is. N.B.--If you wish the jelly to look bright, break a couple of eggs into it, before it is hot ; beat it over the fire till it begins boiling, then lay it aside with a cover and a little fire over it; when limpid, drain it through a cloth, and let it cool, to be used occasionally. No. 2.-Civet of Hare, served as Soup. Skin and empty the hare, but take care not to waste the blood. Cut off the two legs, and divide them into two or three pieces; cut the body into equal pieces; be particular in preserving the blood, to be used as follows. Take half a pound of the breast of bacon, cut it into small square pieces about an inch thick, blanch them in water, and put them into the stew-pan,with a small lump of butter; let them fry till they are of a fine brown; take out the bacon, and put the pieces of hare into the stew-pan; stew them in the butter till firm; then take them out and make a roux, with a little flour, which must not be kept too long on the fire. Moisten with about a quart of broth and a pint of red wine; put in the pieces of hare, the bacon, a bunch of parsley, &c. seasoned with pepper, salt, spices, and a few white onions, to give a relish, together with some trimmings of mushrooms. Let the whole boil for an hour, and try whether the pieces of hare are done. Skim the fat off the sauce; then put the mem- bers into a clean stew-pan, one after another, as also the 217 bacon; then skim the sauce well, reduce it to a good sub- stance, that it may stick round the hare; and put the sauce over the members through a tammy. You must have ready some white onions fried in butter till they are of a light brown; then stew them in a little consommé. Have like- wise some mushrooms stewed in butter, and put them with the onions to take off the butter. Now the blood and liver, that have been kept apart, are to be poured into the sauce as thickening. You must not let the sauce boil, or else the blood would in some measure curdle, and the sauce would not be of the same dark brown colour. Civet must appear as black as possible: then put in the onions and mushrooms, and send up highly seasoned. The consommé in which you have boiled the onions and the mushrooms, must be reduced, and put with the sauce. No.3.-Fillets of Hare, with the Blood. When a hare has been skinned, thrust your knife all along the spine, always taking care to lean towards the bone. Detach with your fingers, the fillet from the neck down to the legs ; leave the thick fleshy part to the leg; then intro- duce your knife, the sharp side towards the tender part of the fillet and your thumb towards the skin; press with your thumb on the sharp side of the blade of the knife, in order that it may not cut the part which contains the sinews; then pull towards you the fillet, and the sinew will remain at- tached to the leg. This operation being performed, scollop the fillets, that is to say, lay the fillets on the table, and flatten them with the back of your knife, then slope your knife, and cut off slices nearly flat; mark them in a sauté pan with clarified butter, and dust a little salt and pepper over them. At dinner-time sautez the scollops, drain the butter, and put the fillets into a sauce de civet, which you have made with the remnants, as it will require at least a 218 couple of hares to make scollops. Mind you preserve the blood of both, in order that the sauce may be black, or of a dark brown. The members may serve for soup. When you wish to make soup, take the parts from which you have cut the filets, and make a civet; the sauce is to be made by the same process. (See Civet above.) No. 4.–Fillets of Hare en Chevreuil. Take the fillets of three hares, according to the size of your dish, detach the fillets, and lard them with bacon cut very equally, then put them into a deep vessel, with salt and pepper, a little parsley, two onions cut into slices, a bay-leaf, a little thyme, a glass of vinegar, and half a glass of water. Let all this be marinaded for a couple of days, and then drain the fillets, and mark them in a sauté pan with a little butter: bake them under-done, and glaze them with a light glaze, as they are always dark enough. Send them up with a poivrade under. No.5.-Pain of Hares, boudins of Hares, roasted Hares. I SHALL merely observe that boudins, quenelles, minces, &c. can be made of hares, although in England it is more customary to serve them roasted. They are, however, very good when dressed as entrées. Hares for roasting ought al- ways to be tender. After being skinned, make a stuffing in the following manner: take a good handful of crumbs of bread, with the same quantity of beef-suet well chopped, a little chopped parsley, a little thyme, salt, pepper, two eggs, a little butter, a little milk, and a shalot; mix up these well into an oval shape, with which stuff the belly of the hare, and sew it up. Stick the fore legs under the belly, and double the hind legs under the belly also, then skewer them well; the head stands erect as if the hare was running; skin the ears. If it is an old hare, it will be good for nothing ; 219 if young, three-quarters of an hour will do it. Serve it up with gravy, and some currant-jelly in a sauce-boat; mind that you stop the spit with the belly towards the fire, or else the stuffing will not be done. Some persons like a poivrade under it. (See brown Sharp Sauce.) No. 6.--Hare Soup. Take two hares, young ones are the best ; skin them, and wash the inside well; separate the limbs, legs, shoul- ders, &c. and put them into a stew-pan with two or three glasses of port wine, two onions stuck with four cloves, a bundle of parsley, a bay-leaf, a couple of sprigs of thyme, ditto of sweet basil, marjoram, and a few blades of mace: put the whole over a slow fire on the stove. When it has simmered for an hour, moisten with some very good boil- ing broth, till the meat is entirely covered with it; then let the whole simmer gently till the meat is quite done. Strain the meat, put the broth through a hair sieve: put the crumb of a two-penny loaf to soak in the broth. Take all the flesh of the hare from the bones, and pound it in a mortar till fine enough to be rubbed through a sieve, moisten with the broth, and season according to your palate. You must not make the soup too thick: and be particularly careful, when you have occasion to warm it up again, not to let it boil, as boiling spoils it. No. 7.--Another way of making Hare Soup. ' On another occasion, you may select some of the best pieces, as the rump, shoulders, &c.; as soon as they are done enough, take out what you intend to put whole into the soup, and put it into a stew-pan with some of the liquor, to prevent it from drying and getting black. When your soup is quite ready, and you are going to serve up, put the reserved members into the tureen, and pour the soup over. 220 Entrées of red-legged Partridges, or Bartavelles. This sort of partridge is very scarce in England ; yet when met with, cook them in the same manner as the other partridges. Quails and Cailleteaux. The cailleteaux are young quails, but owing to their enormous price in England, they are very seldom, if ever, to be procured at the poulterers. An entrée of fillets of young quails, besides its costing too dear, is never at- tempted; the expense would be extravagant, without any other merit. No. 1.-Compotte of Quails. TAKE six or eight quails, according to the size of your dish. Cut the claws off, empty the birds, without making too large an opening. Truss them en poule, that is to say, with the legs inward. Have a dozen pieces of bacon cut into the shape of corks, blanch them in order to draw the salt out: then let them fry in butter till they are of a light brown; next take them out of the stew-pan to make room for the quails, which stew till they begin to be of a light brown also, and then take them out. Make a roux, which moisten with a ladleful of gravy of veal ; add a bunch of parsley and green onions, some small white onions (if approved of), mushrooms, &c. As soon as the quails are done, take them out of the stew-pan, and let the bacon stew till thoroughly done. Skim the sauce well, and strain it through a tammy over the quails: then dish the bacon, mushrooms, and small onions, and send up quite hot, and well seasoned. 221 No.2.-Compotte of Quails, white. This is made in the same manner as the compotte of partridges, No. 8, page 191, with the only difference that you use broth instead of gravy of veal ; thicken the sauce with yolk of eggs, and serve the onions white, the same as the mushrooms. No. 3.-Quails with Peas. Empty, singe, and truss six nice quails; put them into a stew-pan wrapped up in layers of bacon: moisten with a poële, if you have any; if not, with two spoonfuls of broth, a bunch of parsley, seasoned with bay-leaves, thyme, a clove, &c. Stew them for twenty minutes over a very slow fire. Drain them well, and let them boil for a mo- ment with the peas and bacon. (See Sauces, Green Peas, brown, or white.) Next dish them, and reduce the liquor, which, the quails having been boiled in it, would be too thin to mask with. No. 4.-Quails au Gratin. Bone six quails, pick them nicely: take a little farce fine, made in preference with the flesh of young rabbits : fill the bodies of the quails with the said farce: then raise a kind of dome on a dish, and with a spoon make room for the birds: next make an opening in the middle ; let it be either round or square, according to the shape of the dish. Put a piece of soft bread covered with layers of bacon within the opening; cover the birds with layers of bacon, and put the dish into the oven for about a quarter of an hour, or twenty minutes at most, till the birds are done. Drain the fat carefully. Then take six slices of bread cut into the shape of cocks’-combs, which you fry in butter 222 till they are of a light brown, and put them one by one between the birds. Serve a ragoût à la financière in the middle, and mask* the birds and the gratin with a good Espagnole well reduced. No. 5.- Quails à la Bourguignotte. MARK the quails as directed No.3: when done, drain them well, and let them boil for a couple of minutes in the bourguignotte (See Sauces); leave them in the sauce during an hour, when the stew-pan is to be put au bain marie, that the birds may taste of the sauce and truffles. No.6.-Quails à la Crapaudine. These are dressed and cooked in the same manner as pigeons, or partridges à la crapaudine. Serve them up with an Italienne, or a consommé à glace over them. Woodcocks and Snipes. WOODCOCKS, the same as snipes, are good only when they are fat. They are cooked but in very few ways. The most delicate parts are the legs and the intestines. The fillets of woodcocks, for those persons who do not like their meat under-done, are tough and without savour. They are held in high estimation when roasted, or en salmi. A purée of woodcocks is also served occasionally. They may however be dressed in as many ways as young partridges. When roasted, you must always put a toast under them, to receive the intestines, which generally drop out while roasting, unless paper is used to secure them. Take care to stop the spit when the back is towards the fire, because the legs are to be well done, and the fillets under-done. * Mask, signifies cover with the sauce. 224 whether they form a regular flower; then cut another slice quite round to put in the middle over the points of the hearts: this completed, make a deep incision all round the upper part, without however its being cut through : then fry them in clarified butter till of a light brown: as soon as they are fried, cut the middle out, to leave as little crumb as possible. Keep them hot, well wrapped up in a clean sheet of paper. When ready to serve up, work the purée, and pour it into the croustade. You may send up this purée in a bord de plat with poached eggs, or in a vol au vent, &c. No. 4.-Salmi of Woodcocks à la Lucullus. For this dish, you must be particular in having the woodcocks very under-done; then take out the intestines, and with the addition of two or three fat livers of fowls, make the following farce : Take a dozen of mushrooms chopped very fine, a shalot and some parsley, the same; fry these herbs in a small bit of butter; when they are nearly done, put the fat livers, and the intestines of the woodcocks, to fry with them, and when done, put the whole into a mortar, and pound the whole very fine; season with salt and pepper, &c.; then as three woodcocks give you six fillets, cut six bits of bread of the same shape, fry them of a nice colour; then spread the farce equally divided over the six croustades of bread; put them into the oven, and when they are of a good colour, serve them between each of the filets; as for the sauce, you make it with the trimmings as usual for salmi ; this, well managed, is a delicious dish. The sauce must be made early, so as to keep the fillets in it, to pre- vent them from drying : then warm them without boiling, for boiling would make the dish good for nothing. 226 No. 1.-Compotte of Pigeons, brown. Take four or six pigeons, according to the size of your dish ; after having picked them clean, cut off the sinew · below the joint of the leg: empty them without taking out the liver, but feel with your finger if there is any grain left in the paunch. Truss the legs inwards, and make an incision in the back, that they may disgorge. Then put them into a stew-pan with some lukewarm water to draw out the blood: next mark them in layers of bacon, and stew them as you would do chickens. When done, drain them, and send up with a ragoût à la financière. No. 2.-Compotte of Pigeons à la Paysanne. Truss your pigeons as above, and wash them clean in warm water. Cut half a pound of breast of bacon into small slices of about an inch, blanch them first, and then put them into a stew-pan with a small bit of butter; when they are of a nice light brown, take them out to, make room for the pigeons, and when they are become firm, take them out also. Throw a good spoonful of flour into the fat that is in the stew-pan, and let it become of a light brown colour; then pour either a little broth or warm water into it to dilute the flour, season with salt, pepper, spices, a bunch of parsley and green onions, a. few mushrooms, and some small white onions. Then put the pigeons into this sauce, and let the whole stew gently.' Next skim off the grease, put the pigeons into another stew-pan, with all the ingredients to garnish them nicely. Reduce the sauce, and strain it through a tammy over the pigeons; serve up hot. 227 No. 3.-- Pigeons à la Crapaudine. Pick the pigeons, cut off the claws, truss them with the legs inwards, and then with your left hand press on the breast, and scollop one half of the flesh of the breast: turn it down on the table, flatten it well with your knife, dust it over with salt and pepper, break the yolks of two eggs into a plate, brush the pigeons all over with them, then dip them into crumbs of bread, next into melted but- ter, then into crumbs of bread again, which you level as smooth as possible. Now broil the pigeons on a slow fire, that they may get thoroughly done without being burnt. Ascertain when they are done enough, by thrusting the point of your knife into the fleshy part of the leg. If po blood issues, then they are done enough. Serve under them an Italienne, or some rich gravy. This being a com- mon entrée, I shall explain a method of making a sauce piquante in a moment. Sauce piquante.-Chop a dozen of shalots, which put into a stew-pan with two spoonfuls of vinegar, boil till there is no vinegar left: then put in a little broth, or gravy of roast meat, with raspings of bread, salt, pepper, &c. Let this boil for a short time, pour it over the pigeons, and send up hot ; if you put to it a small bit of glaze or port- able soup, it will give it a good taste. 1. No. 4.--Pigeons au Soleil. TRULY these are not well named, for they shine but very little indeed. It is an entrée of desserte, and that is saying enough. If you have any pigeons left either roasted or otherwise, cut them in two, and put them into a marinade. (See No.39, page 181. Entrées of Fowl.) When they have simmered for half an hour in the marinade, let them cool, drain them, and put them into a paste for frying. (See Q 2 228 page 123.) Fry them of a good colour, and serve up, with fried parsley in the middle if you like, or a poivrade, or a sauce piquante. (See Sauces.) · No. 5.-Cutlets of Pigeons à la d'Armagnac. .. Take eight pigeons, as you may make one entrée with the loins and legs, and another with the filets. Take the flesh off the breasts, and make a farce of it with the same quantity of calf's udder, or calf's suet ready boiled, but somewhat less of the panada. Put the whole into a mortar, but observe that with the panada, plenty of herbs, shalots, parsley, mushrooms, &c. are required. When the farce has been well pounded, use a couple of eggs to give it more substance: then bake a little bit in a tartlet mould, in order to taste whether it is sufficiently seasoned. Spread the whole on a plafond well buttered, and very even, about the thickness of a mutton chop; then let it cool. When cold, either with a cutter or with your knife, cut the minced meat into the shape of cutlets, without however detaching it from the plafond: this being done, put the plafond over something hot, merely to melt the butter. Then take the bones out of the pinions, which scrape well, and stick them into the extremity of the mock cutlets ; dip them into an omelette, and into crumbs of bread, and fry them, but do not let the dripping be too hot, that the cutlets may have sufficient time to be done through without being burnt. Dish the cutlets en miroton, with either fried parsley, or an Italienne in the middle; send a brown Italienne separately in a boat. No. 6.-Cutlets of Pigeons à la Maréchale. Take the fillets of eight pigeons, flatten them with the back of your knife, scrape the bone of the pinion, and stick it into the point of the cutlet; dip the cutlets into clarified - 229 butter : after having seasoned them with salt and pepper, dip them once only into crumbs of bread, but very even and smooth; broil them till they are of a nice colour, and send them up with rich gravy, or an Italienne. . No. 7.-Pigeons à la Toulouse. Pick, empty, truss, and singe six young pigeons: mark them in a stew-pan trimmed with layers of bacon: moisten with a little poële ; let them stew for sixteen or twenty minutes. Then drain and dish them ; mask them with a Toulouse. (See Sauces.) No. 8.—Pigeons à la Financière. . For this entrée you must procure young pigeons à la gautier or squabbs : singe them slightly. Melt about half a pound of butter, squeeze the juice of a lemon into the butter, and then let the pigeons be fried lightly over the fire twice or three times only. Then put the pigeons into a stew-pan trimmed with layers of bacon, pour the melted butter and lemon-juice over them, and then cover them well: it is also requisite to pour in a spoonful of poële, to prevent their frying. Sweat them for a quarter of an hour over an equal fire, and drain them, dish them nicely, and cover them with a financière sauce. Mind to have them well disgorged of all their blood, before you put them into the butter. No. 9.-Pigeons à l’Aspic clair. TAKE six pigeons à la gautier, which cook as those above, No. 8. When done, dish them with large craw- fish between each pigeon, and use the aspic for sauce. 230 No. 10.- Pigeons cooked in all Manner of Ways. As I do not pretend to make a shew of extraordinary knowledge, by introducing a multiplicity of names, and of entrées which are no longer in fashion, I shall observe only, that pigeons in general are rather used for garnitures than for entrées. In the first case, they are prepared as directed in No. 8. They may be dressed with peas, white or brown, marinade, or love-apple sauce, &c. &c. The only science consists in preserving their white colour. The shape is always the same, and with respect to the sauce, every one has his choice and taste. For the godard, or the chambord, as also for the ge- nerality of great garnitures, 'pigeons à la gautier are re- quisite. A pigeon pie is a very plain dish, which is left to the management of common female cooks. To make a pigeon pie, put a few thin slices of beef in a dish, and the pigeons over them, well seasoned with salt, pepper, and spices, the yolks of a few eggs within the intervals, and a spoon- ful of broth; cover the whole with plain paste, or with puff-paste, &c. &c. Ducks, Wild Ducks, &c. Ducks are fit to be sent up for entrées, only when they begin to be plump; they are good towards November when they are plump and fat, but those that are sold in London in May, June, or July, are nothing but skin and bone. Ducks, the same as woodcocks, require the fillets to be under-done; but in that case the legs would be nearly raw, as they require a much longer time to do. Care must therefore be taken to stop the spit when the back is turned towards the fire. The legs and breast, by this means will be equally done. 232 put into a stew-pan half a pound of the best part of bacon cut in squares of an inch, and a very small bit of fresh butter; fry the bacon of a nice colour, then drain the fat and put in the peas to sweat gently. When they are all very green, put half a spoonful of flour, and moisten with boiling water. Now add the members of the duck, some salt and a little pepper, a very small bit of sugar, and a bundle of parsley and green onions. When the duck is done, serve the members covered with the peas, and take great care to skim off the fat. No. 3.-Duck with the purée of Green Peas. PREPARE the duck as above, and send it up with a purée of green peas over it (See Purée verte) or with a hochepot. (See Hochepot.) No.4.--Ducklings à la Bigarade. This entrée requires plump fleshy ducks : pick, empty, and truss them well with the legs stuck upwards. First roast them under-done, and make incisions in the breast, what the French call aiguillettes ; pour the gravy that issues from the duck into the sauce, which must be ready made, in order that you may send up quickly; a thing to be parti-. cularly attended to. With respect to the appropriate sauce, see Sauces. If you are allowed to serve up fillets only, then you must have three ducklings at least. Roast them under-done; when properly done cut them into aiguillettes, that is, four out of each duck; put them into the sauce with the gravy that runs from them, and send up without loss of time, and quite hot. As soon as you have put the aiguillettet into the sauce, squeeze a little juice of bigarade (bitter orange) over the whole; keep stirring well, and serve up the fillets in the sauce. This is a dish for an epicure; for a dainty palate. Do not think of dishing it 233 en couronne to give it a better appearance, but send it up in the sauce, and they who eat it will fare all the better. Mignonette, or coarse pepper, is required in this sauce, and the entrée altogether must be highly seasoned. Be- fore roasting the duck, blanch a handful of sage with a couple of onions cut into quarters; chop them ; season them with a little salt and pepper, and stuff the duck; by so doing it will acquire additional savour. No. 5.-Salmi of Wild Duck. If you roast a duck on purpose, let it be under-done. Pare it whilst hot, and let the parings simmer in the sauce. Then strain the sauce through a tammy over the members, and let them be made hot without boiling. The sauce is made in the same manner as that of the salmi of partridges, or as follows: cut four shalots into several pieces, a small bit of ham, a few bits of carrot, some parsley roots, thyme, bay-leaf, three cloves, a few blades of mace, five allspice, and a small bit of butter; fry all this in a stew-pan till the ham has acquired a little colour, then put a little flour to it; fry it a little more to do the flour; moisten with a glass of wine, either red or white, a ladleful of good veal gravy, and salt and pepper; put all the trimmings of the duck to boil with this sauce; skim off all the fat, reduce the sauce, and put it over the members through a tammy, to warm them only; when you send up, squeeze the juice of a lemon over. This entrée must be highly seasoned; add a little Cayenne, and do not let the members boil. No.6.--Members of Duck, with the purée of Lentilles. Poele the members as directed in No. 1. Drain them, and mask them with the purée of lentilles. (See Purée of Lentilles.) 234 No. 7.--Duck with Olives. This entrée is admired only by the Italians. Poële the ducks as directed in No. 1. Pour over them the sauce aux olives, which in my opinion is no great treat. Take a bot- tle of French or Italian olives, cut the kernel out, but mind to preserve the shape of the olive; blanch them in boiling water to take off the salt: if they are not too briny, put them into a very good Espagnole sauce, with the juice of a lemon, and a little Cayenne. Serve this sauce with duck only. No.8.-Capilottade of Duck. If you have any roasted ducks left, and are called upon for one entrée more, cut the ducks as for eating, flay them, and let them simmer in a thin Italienne. Fry a few slices of bread cut into the shape of a kite, and send up with the juice of a lemon. If you should not have any Italienne ready, mince a few shalots, boil them in vinegar, make a little browning (rour) which you moisten with broth or even water, and mix a little glaze seasoned with salt and pepper : put the shalots into the sauce; let it boil a few minutes; then put the duck into the sauce to heat, but without boiling, and give it a high seasoning. Such common dishes are always to be highly seasoned. Larks. No.1.-Larks au gratin. Take eighteen larks, as fat as possible ; pick and bone them; next season them with salt and pepper, and stuff them with a farce fine, or a farce à quenelles; the former 236 . No. 4.-Larks en Croustade. This dish would find few admirers, as birds in croustade, and even hot-raised pies, are very seldom called for. The nobility of this country like to see what they are eating; they fear to meet with something they do not like in a hot raised pie, which they accordingly seldom touch. The reason of it is obvious, and justifies their aversion : the aforesaid hot pies being generally economical entrées, made of legs or such other parts of either fowl or game. The nobility, gentry, and epicures in general, never taste any part but the fillets. Larks in croustade must be done beforehand. Put the birds into croustades fried of a light brown, the inside part of which you take out with a cut- ter: into the vacuity put first a little farce, and the lark over it. Keep the birds hot till you serve up. Pheasants. It is no easy matter to meet with a pheasant possessing that exquisite taste which is acquired only by long keeping. The damp of the climate prevents their being kept so long as they are in other countries. The hens in general are more delicate. The cocks shew their age by their spurs. They are only fit to be eaten when the blood runs from the bill, which is commonly six days or a week after they have been killed. You may then either roast, or make entrées of them. The flesh of a pheasant is white, tender, and has a good savour if you keep it long enough; if not, it has no more savour than a common fowl, or a hen. No. 1.-Salmi of Pheasants à l'Espagnole. Those articles in general, which after having been roast- ed, are to be put into a sauce, require to be under-done, and 237 especially pheasants. After having trussed them nicely, spit them. They will be done in half an hour's time. If small, take the bird from the fire at the expiration of that time. When cold, flay and cut it, as for eating, and put the parings into the sauce à salmi. If you have two phea- sants, you must not use the legs, but to give flavour; as the breast of a pheasant is generally very fleshy, cut each side in three pieces, and pare them of a nice shape, cut likewise some slices of bread of the same shape and size, and fry them of a nice brown; put the flesh into a stew-pan covered, to prevent it from drying, and keep the trimmings to put into the sauce as follows: cut four shalots, a small bit of lean ham, some parsley-roots, a small bit of carrot cut into dice, some thyme, bay-leaf, six cloves, mace, ten grains of allspice, and a small bit of butter; fry all this in a stew-pan till the ham has a good colour; if you have no brown sauce, put a spoonful of flour; moisten with two glasses of Madeira and a ladleful of gravy of veal; season with salt and pepper; put the trimmings to boil with this, and skim off all the fat; if it should taste a little bitter, correct with a very small bit of sugar. Keep this sauce thick enough to cover the meat; putit overthe flesh through a tammy, and let it warm, but it must not boil. This dish, when well made, is most excellent: if you like to make it with truffles, put the trimmings of them to boil with the sauce; have some truffles cut of the size of a nutmeg, and put them separately to boil in clean sauce ; when done, put the sauce of the truffles with the other, and put the truffles in the middle of the dish, when you send the dinner up. No. 2.—Croquettes of Pheasant. The operation is the same as for all other croquettes of fowl, or game; it is only to be observed, that croquettes 238 of game must be stronger than those of poultry. You must not forget to mix a little glaze of game, which makes the only difference. Serve up garnished with fried parsley. No. 3.—Hachi of Pheasant à la Polonoise. Use the same method as for hachis of poultry, or of game. Garnish with poached eggs, but remember to put into it some of the glaze of game. No. 4.-Soufflé of Pheasant. See No. 14, page 195, Soufflés of Partridges. In ge- neral all entrées that are made of partridges, may likewise be made of pheasants; such as aux choux, à la Monglas, à la Barbarie, otherwise en petit deuil, à la Givry, à la Crême, &c. &c. 239 CHAP. XIII. FRESH-WATER FISH. CARP. No. 1.-Broiled Carp with Caper Sauce. You must never use fresh-water fish unless it is alive, and you kill it yourself. When you have given a few strokes on the carp's head with a large knife, thrust your knife under the scales, beginning at the tail, and proceed to cut right and left. All the scales on one side must come off at once, in a piece. Then do the same on the other side, and about the belly. When the scales have been taken off properly, and none are left, the carp must be white; then take off the gills, without damaging the tongue, which is one of the most delicate parts of the carp. Make a small incision in the neck, as if you were going to cut off the head; make another in the belly, but in a contrary direc- tion, and as small as possible. Then with your fore-finger draw out the roe, intestines, and guts. Wash the carp well, till there is no blood left, and wipe it well; slit both sides of the back, and let it marinade in a little oil, salt, and pepper, for about an hour, or a little more. Now lay it on the gridiron over a very slow fire, that it may have time to be well done through. When broiled on both sides, serve it with caper-sauce, into which you put a spoonful of essence of anchovies. If the carp has a soft roe, put it - again into the body with a little chopped parsley, mixed with a small lump of fresh butter, salt and pepper; then 240 sew the belly up, for fear the contents should drop out, and broil all together. When the carp is done, cut off the thread, and mask* the fish with the sauce. No. 2.-Carp Farcie, baked. After having cleansed and prepared a carp as above, take up one half of it, and with the flesh make a farce (See Farce de Carpe), with which you cover the other half, after having taken out the bones. Give it a pleasing shape. Then with a very small spoon, figure scales over it, and put it into the oven on a baking-pan. Take care it does not get too dry. When it is of a fine brown colour, cover it, and ascertain if it is done, by running your knife be- tween the farce and the fish. Send it up to table with anchovy sauce, or sauce hachée. No. 3.-Carp au bleu, & au Court-bouillon. Take a very fine carp, cut off the gills, but keep the tongue. Then make as small an opening as possible to empty it, and wash it well, till no blood is left. Then boil some vinegar, and when boiling hot pour it over the fish, that the scales may crisp. Next wrap the carp up in a cloth, and stew it in a court-bouillon. When done, drain it, and serve it with anchovy sauce and capers. Court-bouillon t. Take three carrots, four onions, six shalots, and two roots of parsley, which pick and wash. Mince them. Put * Mask, means to cover with the sauce. + This is a very good thing in a Roman Catholic family during Lent. It is always good ; only add a glass of wine to it every time you use it. Use it for marinade, &c. &c. 241 a small lump of butter into a stew-pan, with the above roots, and fry them till they begin to get brown. Moisten next with two bottles of red wine, a bottle of water, a handful of salt, some whole pepper-corns, and a bunch of parsley "and green onions, seasoned with thyme, bay- leaves, sweet basil, cloves, &c. Let the whole stew for an hour, and then strain it through a sieve, to use as oc- casion may require. If you should have no wine, put in some vinegar. The court-bouillon is better after having served several times than on the first day. It is a famous thing for stewing craw-fish. No. 4.-Carp à la Chambord. TAKE a very huge carp, scale and empty it as directed in No. 1. Have the soft roes of other small carp, which put into the body of the large one, after you have sea- soned them with chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and spices. Sew up the belly of the carp, and lard two squares on the back with very small pieces of bacon. Next lay the carp in a fish-pan, with two ladles of court-bouillon, and put it into the oven, but mind it must be basted frequently with the marinade. When it is done, drain it, but take care you do not break it. Glaze the parts that are larded, and dish it with la chambord and its garnish. The chambord is a dish very seldom served in this coun- try, as the English nobility prefer sea-fish to any fresh- water fish, except the perch. The chambord is the same sauce as the financière; you have only to reduce a little of the marinade in which you have done the fish, whether carp, or jack, &c. and put into it some essence of ancho- vies, Cayenne, and lemon-juice. All sorts of garnish are required : lambs' sweetbread, cocks’-combs, mushrooms, truffles, quenelles, small pigeons called squabbs, &c. R 242 No. 5.--Matelotte of Carp à la Royale. TAKE several carp, which cleanse as directed in No. 1. Cut them into thick slices ; first cut off the head, but never forget to take out the stone which is at the top of the spine, exactly about the neck, for it has a most nauseous bitter taste. Next cut the remainder into three equal parts, and wash them well, then lay them on a clean towel to drain, after which put them into a stew-pan just large enough to contain the quantity of fish you wish to cook. As you are to boil the fish with wine only, if you were to take too large a vessel, it would require too much wine, which would be wasted. Sprinkle a little salt over the fish. Pour only as much wine as is requisite just to cover the carp, and let it stew over a large fire. As soon as the wine boils, if it is good, or unadulterated, it will catch fire. Red wine of course is used. Then take your pan off from the fire, and leave it on the corner of the stove, and make a sauce in the following manner: Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stew-pan, and make a roux by mixing a little flour. When the roux begins to get brown, put in two large onions cut in quarters, and let them fry till they are entirely melted. Then moisten with some of the wine in which the fish has been stewing; add a large bunch of parsley and green onions, seasoned with allspice, thyme, bay-leaf, &c. Pick a pint of mush- rooms, wash them well, turn the finest, and throw them into a little water and lemon-juice to keep them white. The parings are to be used for the improvement of the taste of the sauce, from which skim off all the fat; then strain it through a tammy over the carp, which you must have drained well beforehand. You must have ready some small onions, fried brown in butter, and stewed separately in a little broth ; and some mushrooms like- wise stewed separately. Then dish the carp with the 243 head in the middle. You must also have some soft roes stewed separately in vinegar, that they may be quite firm; with these garnish the matelotte. Next have a dozen of toasts made of rasped crust of bread, a few quenelles, and a few craw-fish, and dish the matelotte rather high in the middle. Let the sauce boil, and put in a good lump of butter kneaded with a little flour, two spoonfuls of essence of anchovies, and the juice of a lemon. The sauce must be rather highly seasoned and thick, that it may cover well and adhere to the fish. The small onions and mushrooms are not to be omitted, but put them over the fish. No. 6.—Matelotte of Carp à la Marinière. AFTER having cleansed the fish as directed No. 1, put it into a vessel that will stand a large brisk fire. Moisten with some red wine according to the quantity of fish ; put some small onions fried white in butter into the vessel, with salt, pepper, spices, a bunch of parsley, and green onions well seasoned *. Let the whole boil till you see the fish is done. Handle some butter and flour, which you drop in small portions into this sauce, in order to thicken it. Have likewise some toasts, which put round your dish in the sauce. Season it well, and serve up quite hot, ra- ther highly seasoned. No.7.-Petits Pâtés of Furce of Carp. See farces for the flesh, and pastry for the paste. These are only served in Roman Catholic families, on fast days. * I call a bunch seasoned, when thyme, bay-leaf, spices, cloves, &c. &e. have been put to it. R 2 244 EELS. No. 1.—Matelotte of Eels *. TAKE one or two live eels. Throw them into the fire. As they are twisting about on all sides, lay hold of them with a towel in your hand, and skin them from head to tail. This method is the best, as it is the means of draw- ing out all the oil, which is unpalatable. Cut the eels in pieces without ripping the belly; then run your knife into the hollow part, and turn it round to take out the entrails. Wash them well, that no blood may remain. Mark the pieces of eel in the same manner as you do the carp. The eel is longer in doing, but the process is the same. It will frequently happen that a matelotte is made of all sorts of fish, such as carp, tench, pike, and eels. The carp is sooner done than any of the other mentioned fish; but they are, notwithstanding, always cooked together when they can be procured. No. 2.--Tronçons of Eels broiled à la Tartare. Skin the eels as above, cut the tronçons or pieces about four inches long, make a court-bouillon or marinade. Stew the eels in this marinade, and when they are done let them cool, then brush them over with yolks of eggs mixed with a little salt, and dip them into crumbs of bread, then into clarified butter, and strew over them crumbs of bread again. * Several gentlemen have accused me of cruelty, for recommending in my work that eels should be burnt alive. As my knowledge in cookery is en- tirely devoted to the gratification of their taste, and the preservation of their health, I consider it my duty to attend to what is essential to both. The blue skin and the cil which remain when they are skinned, are highly indigesti- ble. If any gentleman or lady should make the trial of both they will find that the burnt ones are much healthier; but it is, after all, left to their choice whether to burn or skin. 245 Broil them of a fine colour, or bake them, and serve them up with a remoulade sauce. Remoulade Sauce. Put into a mortar, a spoonful of very fine chopped shalots, the yolks of two boiled eggs, a spoonful of mustard, salt, pepper, and a little Cayenne ; pound the whole well, then put gently one or two spoon- fuls of fine Lucca oil and a little vinegar; rub this sauce through a tammy, and put the yolk of a raw egg, to pre- vent its turning oily: if you wish the sauce to be green, put a verd d'Epinard into it, and some scented vinegar, as Tarragon, or elder, &c. &c. No.3.- Tronçons of Eels à la Poulette. THERE are some people who cook eels à la poulette, in the same manner as a fricassée of chickens; it is better, however, to stew them in a marinade, and then to make the sauce à la poulette separately, by taking some sauce tournée, which you reduce till it can take a thickening. Mix it with parsley chopped very fine, and small onions if approved of; but then they are to be done separately, and stewed in a little broth and salt. Drain them, and put them into the sauce after having thickened it. Let it be sea- soned pretty highly with salt, pepper, and the juice of a lemon. Let the eels continue in the sauce for ten minutes before you send the dinner up to table. If you should have no sauce tournée, make a little white roux (See Sauces), moisten with either water or broth, to which add a bunch of parsley and green onions, pepper, salt, a small white onion, a few mushrooms, and a little glaze. When your sauce has been boiling for half an hour, that the flour may be well done, take out the parsley and onions, skim the sauce, mix a little chopped parsley and the juice of a lemon with the thickening, and serve up hot. 249 No.5.--Pike, Sauce à Matelotte. Empty it as directed No. 2. Stew it in a marinade au vinaigre, and mask it with the sauce à matelotte, after hav- ing removed the scales, as in No. 2. The sauce matelotte is to be made with red wine. If you wish to make a ma- telotte of pike, do it in the same way as the other mate- lottes ; boil the fish in wine, and use the wine to make the sauce as usual. No. 6.-Fillets of Pike à la Maître d'Hôtel. TAKE up the fillets of a moderate-sized pike, divest them of the skin, and cut them into equal pieces, that they may be dished nicely. Mark them in a sauté pan with some clarified butter, pepper, and salt. When just going to send them up to table, sautez them over a large fire, that they may be white and firm, and turn them on the other side. When they are done, drain and dish them en miroton, and serve them up with the maître d'hôtel à pois- son; the same as for fillets of soles. No. 7.—Fillets of Pike à la Maréchale. Take the pike and skin it as above. Cut the fillets in the shape of cutlets, and powder a little salt and pepper over them. Beat the yolks of two eggs in a pan, with which brush the fillets over, and then strew crumbs of bread over them. Next dip them into clarified butter, and into crumbs of bread, to give them a second coat. Make those crumbs quite level. Lastly, broil the fillets over a slow, but equal fire. Dish them en miroton, and send them up with a white poivrade. Put into a small stew-pan two spoonfuls of Tarragon vinegar, let it reduce to half, and 250 add to it three spoonfuls of sauce tournée ; thicken it with the yolk of an egg, add to it half a quartern of fresh but- ter, some salt, pepper, and the juice of half a lemon ; work the sauce to make it smooth. No. 8.—Fillets of Pike à la Turque. PREPARE the fillets as in No. 6. Wash some rice quite clean, and blanch it. Make it swell soft in some good consommé. Let it be done thoroughly, keep it thick, and season it well. Add a few spoonfuls of velouté, and a little thick cream, still preserving it thick and firm, that it may be dished in a pyramid or dome, in the centre of the dish, and the fillets all round. Mask* the fillets, but not the rice. You may serve up either with the maître d'hôtel, or the ravigotte. (See Sauces.) No. 9.-Pike à la Chambord. Exactly the same thing as carp, No. 4. PERCH. Perch is a fish that is held in high estimation. Its flesh is white and delicate; it is easily digested, and is particu- larly recommended to those invalids who have a weak, debilitated stomach. No. 1.-Perch à la Water-fish. Empty the perch. Wash it well in several waters. Mark in a stew-pan a white marinade, composed of shreds of parsley and of parsley roots, a few carrots, and two or three green onions cut into fillets. Stew the whole in a * Mask, or cover with the sauce. 251 little butter. When the roots begin to get soft, moisten with boiling water, and a glass of white wine, salt, pepper, &c. Let the whole stew well, and pour that marinade over the fish, which stew for about ten minutes. Then drain and scale it nicely, preserving, however, the red fins. When the perch is quite clean, stick those red fins into the partition of the fillet, to shew what the fish is. As it is very liable to break, put it with care into a sauté pan, co- vered with some of the liquid, to keep it warm, reduce the remainder of the liquid almost to glaze; have some parsley roots cut as for Julienne soup, some leaves of parsley blanched very green, and two spoonfuls of good béchamelle; add to it the reduction, some salt, pepper, the juice of half a lemon, and half a quartern of fresh butter: after hav- ing drained the perch, dish it, and cover it with the sauce. No. 2.-Perch plain boiled, or Water Suchet. EMPTY and wash the perch as above. Trim a stew-pan with parsley roots, a bunch of parsley, a little salt, and a few grains of corn pepper, which you must count, that you may take every one out when the water has boiled for half an hour. Put the perch into the water, and boil them speedily, that they may be more firm. Then take out the bunch of parsley; and throw into the liquor some leaves of parsley that have been blanched very green. Serve up the fish in a deep-bottomed dish, with the liquorand the roots, which must be cut into fillets of about an inch long and an eighth wide, send up with slices of bread and butter on a plate, the liquor must be rather salt, No. 3.-Perch à la Maître d'Hôtel. Let them be prepared and cooked as above. Remember that you must preserve the red fins, which you stick into 254 No. 4.-Baked Trout. HAVING emptied and scaled the trout, put a stuffing well seasoned into the belly, then turn it round, with its tail fixed in its mouth. Put the fish in a small quantity of marinade, so that it may be just covered. Baste it frequently, and let it be made of a fine colour. When it is done, reduce one half of the liquor in which the trout has been stewing, put in a good lump of fresh butter kneaded with flour, with a little essence of anchovies, a few fine capers, salt and pepper, if the sauce is not suf- ficiently seasoned; but be careful, when you use ancho- vies, not to put too much salt. Then squeeze the juice of a lemon, drain the fish, send it up to table, with the sauce under it, but without musking, or covering. No. 5.—Trout plain boiled. After having emptied, scaled, and washed the fish, have some boiling water ready, into which put the trout with a good handful of salt only, but no vinegar, as it spoils the colour of the fish. When it is done, drain it well, and serve it up on a clean cloth, garnished with parsley. Send up the lobster sauce separately in a boat, or the Dutch sauce. The length of time it should boil, is left to the judgment of the cook ; the size determines the time. LAMPREY. Although very few people are partial to this fish, some, however, like it en matelotte; it is then to be cooked in the same manner as the eel. You must notice, however, that the lamprey requires a very long time before it is done. Make a sauce à matelotte (See Sauces), wherein you 255 let your fish simmer for an hour and a half, or two hours if the fish is of a large size. No. 1.-Craw-Fish. CRAW-fish is good only when it does not spawn, for then it is most nauseously bitter. Wash it well in several clean waters, till the water remains perfectly limpid and bright. Trim a stew-pan with a few slices of carrots, onions, roots and stalks of parsley, thyme, bay-leaves, two cloves, salt, pepper, a glass of vinegar, and some water. Let the whole stew for an hour, drain it through a sieve, and put the live craw-fish into the seasoning. Keep stirring them almost without interruption, that they may be done all alike, for twenty minutes. Keep them in the seasoning till you send them up to table, as they take a better flavour. No. 2.-Craw-Fish à la Poulette. When the best craw-fish have been sent to table plain, take the smaller ones and pick off the lesser claws; cut the large ones in half, beard them, pick the tail ; put all these in a cloth, and shake them well, that there may be no water left. Then take two spoonfuls of velouté (See Sauces), a quarter of a pound of butter, some pepper and salt, chopped parsley, a little cavice, and the juice of a lemon. Toss the craw-fish in this sauce, which must be thick, and send up to table quite hot. No. 3.-Bisque of Craw-Fish. This is a potage which is sent to table on gala days only, when you are obliged to make a frequent change of potages. Take the best craw-fish you can procure, according to the quantity you may want. Five or six 256 dozen at least are generally requisite. If you boil the craw-fish expressly for the occasion, you must not put vi- negar. Lay aside two dozen and a half of the finest tails, that remain whole. The rest, with all the meat, and fleshy parts of the inside, pound in a mortar with the flesh of the breasts of two roasted fowls or chickens. Previously, have soaked or boiled in rich broth, the crumb of two French penny loaves. Put that also into the mortar, with the yolks of three eggs boiled hard. Pound the whole together. Next put the shells of the craw-fish to boil in a little broth; then take some of the liquor to dilute the purée with, which rub through a tammy. Now boil a pint and a half of cream, which you keep continually stirring round, in order to prevent a scum from rising. Pour that cream into the potage, and season it well. Have the red spawn of a lobster well pounded, dilute it with some of the broth, and mix it with your soup, or potage. Keep it hot, without its boiling. Soak a few rounds of bread, which lay at the bottom of the tureen. Pour your bisque into the tureen, over the bread; place the tails that you have laid aside previously, all round the tureen over the soup, and serve up hot. Mind the soup is not to be too thick ; and season it of a good flavour. No. 4.-Craw-Fish for Entrées. Your craw-fish, in this case, must be dressed as di- rected in No. I. They never serve but for a garnish, and then the small claws must always be taken off. Mind that you beard the fish, take off all the small claws, and that it is of a fine colour. Thus prepared, they may be used for either chambords, godards, matelottes, fricassées, pâtés chauds, aspics, &c. &c. There are many other sorts of fresh-water fish that seldom are sent to table, which are found in sleeping 257 waters, and which accordingly shall not be mentioned here. Those who fancy them, however, may either broil or fry them, as they would a carp.. Aloze, Shad. This fish is held in high estimation in France, and espe- cially in Paris. It must be scaled, emptied, and washed nicely. Next it is to be marinaded in a little oil, with pepper and salt. It is necessary to split it, that the salt may penetrate. Broil it on both sides over a slow fire. It will be done in the course of one hour. When it is done, let it be served with caper sauce, or with sorrel, not purée, but what is called farce. 258 CHAP. XIV. SALT-WATER FISH. No. 1.— Turbot. A TURBOT of a middling size is preferable to any other. When very large, the meat is tough and thready. It is customary in France, and the same must be done in every country, to empty the fish, and to wash out all the blood. Some gentlemen are much mistaken with regard to the freshness of the turbot: I have ascertained by many years observation, that a turbot kept two or three days is much better eating than a very fresh one: it certainly depends much on the quality of the fish, but if it is boiled with care and attention, its having been kept is a great improve- ment to it. If you are obliged to wait after it is done, it is better not to leave the fish in the water; keep the water boiling, but put the fish over the steam, covered with a damp cloth. When the dinner is called for, dip the fish again into the water; by this means it never loses its quality. (See Turbot, No.1, page 80.) No. 2.-Fillets of Turbot à la Maréchale. Take the fillets of a moderate-sized turbot, skin them, and cut each fillet into equal pieces, either oval, or in the shape of hearts. Season them with salt and pepper. Then beat the yolks of two or three eggs in a plate, and brush the fillets over with them, next dip them into crumbs of bread, then into clarified butter, and next into bread again. 259 Broil them till they are of a fine colour, on a slow but equal fire. Dish them en couronne, and pour over a white sharp sauce. (See No.25, page 11.) No.3.-Fillets of Turbot à la Crème. This is an entrée of desserte*. When your turbot is returned from table, immediately take up the fillets, and skin them; you must do this while they are hot, as it will occasion a great waste to trim them when cold. The next day you must scollop your fillets, as equally as possible. Have a sauce à la créme quite hot; put the fillets into it, keep them hot, and in due time send them up in a dish garnished with a bordure, or in a vol au vent. The cream sauce may be made in two different ways; first, if you have béchamelle in the larder, put into a stew-pan three spoonfuls of it, a quarter of a pound of very fresh butter, two spoonfuls of very good cream, some salt, and a little Cayenne: mix the whole well, and put either the sauce over the fish, or the fish into the sauce, if it is for a vol au vent. If you have no béchamelle, put into a stew-pan a table spoonful of flour, a quarter of a pound of butter, two or three spoonfuls of cream, salt, a little Cayenne, and a small bit of glaze. Do not let this sauce boil, only melt it till it is thick. No. 4.-Gratin of Fillets of Turbot au Velouté. This is another entrée of desserte. Proceed as above, No. 3. Cut a few slices of bread, one inch broad and a quarter of an inch thick. Dip them into an omelette of one single egg. Stick them on the border of a dish, which lay on the corner of a little stove. As you stick on the bread, turn the dish ; when you have completed the circle, put a * I call entrée of desserte, what is left from the preceding day. s 2 260 spoonful or two of velouté, and let it gratiné in the centre of the dish. Next take more of the same velouté, to which you add a quarter of a pound of butter, and mix this on the stove without boiling. Keep this sauce thick; pour into it a little thick cream ; season it well; put your scollops into the sauce, and the whole into the dish in which you have gratiné the velouté. Now level with your knife, and strew crumbs of bread over them equally; Heat a bored ladle, put a lump of butter into it, and baste the scollops with it; let them have another coat of crumbs of bread, baste them again, and let them get a good colour with the salamander: When the gratin has got a good colour, take off the slices of bread that you had previously stuck round the dish, to make room for others that have been fried in butter of a fine colour. If you have a deep dish, the first border will not be wanted, only the second, which makes the dish look better; if you trim and fry your bread nicely, it makes a beautiful entrée. No. 5.-Vol au Vent d'Escalopes de Turbot, au bon Beurre. This is an excellent entrée of desserte. Be particular in cleaning the fillets of the turbot when returned from table, as directed No. 3. Cut them in scollops, and put them into a stew-pan, well covered, to prevent their getting dry. With regard to the sauce, take six spoonfuls of sauce tour- née, which reduce with two spoonfuls of consommé. When the sauce is reduced, thicken it with the yolks of two eggs, and refine your sauce with at least a quarter of a pound of the best butter. If you should have any thick cream, put in a little, as it will make the sauce mellower; lastly, sea- son well, put the scollops with the sauce, keep them hot, and send up the whole to table in a vol au vent. (See vol au vent.) 261 No. 6.-Petites Timballes of Fillets of Turbot à lu Vénitienne. This is an entrée of desserte, held in high estimation. It requires but very little flesh of the fish to make it. Cut whatever is left of the turbot into dice, as small as possi- ble. For the sauce, take three spoonfuls of hot béchamelle, to which add a good lump of butter, salt, white fine pep- per, a little parsley chopped very fine, and well squeezed in a towel, that it may not give a green colour to the sauce. Then put a little cavice ; that of Mackay's, which is the best, is the composition which agrees the most with all fish sauces, particularly when kept many years. Keep stirring your sauce, which is generally called work- ing it. We call it vanner, taking up the sauce in a ladle, and pouring it perpendicularly into the stew-pan, repeat- ing the operation frequently, and very quick, to make the sauce transparent, When it is mellow, and of a good taste, throw in the small dice of turbot, keep them hot, and when ready to send up to table, garnish the little timballes * with the turbut. Let them lay for a moment in the oven, and serve them up hot. If you have no bé- chamelle, you must make use of the sauce à la crème. (See No. 3, page 259.) No. 7.-Turbotin broiled with Caper Sauce. After having emptied and washed the fish clean, make an incision in the back, down to the bone; then wipe it quite dry; next lay it in a dish to marinade in salt, pepper, and sweet oil ; put in very little oil, as it requires only sufficient to prevent it from drying. Half an hour, or even three-quarters of an hour before dinner-time, broil the fish over a slow fire. It is requisite to lay some straws on the * Timballe is the pastry made in the dariole mould. 262 gridiron, to prevent its making black streaks on the tur- bot, which broil on both sides, and serve up with caper sauce. BRILL. This is very delicate, and very luscious eating when broiled, with caper sauce. It is to be cooked exactly in the same manner as the turbotin, No. 7. It is also eaten like turbot, and is almost as good. When very fresh, you, may use it for fillets, and for every entrée the same as turbot. (See Turbot, plain and cooked.) No. 1.-John Dory, John Dory is a fish of hideous aspect, but of which the meat is very delicate. Cook it in the same manner as the turbot ; and when broiled, send it up with caper or anchovy sauce. No. 2.—John Dory boiled, with Lobster Sauce. John Dory is boiled exactly the same as a turbot ; and the sauce is the same. Put parsley round it, particu- larly in the opening of the head. SALMON. SALMON from the Thames is the most esteemed, and sells accordingly. Salmon is served indiscriminately, plain, or as an entrée, entremets, &c. Crimped salmon fetches the highest price, and is the only one introduced at the table of a true connoisseur: No. 1.-Slices of Crimped Salmon, with Lobster Sauce. See Salmon, No. 5, page 81. 263 No. 2.--Slices of Crimped Salmon broiled, with Caper Sauce. MARINADE your slices of salmon in a little olive oil, with salt and pepper. Three quarters of an hour before you send up, broil them on a very slow fire, on both sides. When it is done, take off the skin, and drain it on a clean towel to draw out all the oil Dish it, and mask it with the caper sauce. Let it be understood that your gridiron must be put on a slope, with a plafond under the fore-feet to receive the oil, which, if it fell into the fire, the smoke of it would spoil the fish, and besides fill the kitchen with smoke and stench. (The sauce as in No. 4, page 81.) No. 3.-Cutlets of Salmon sautez à la Maître d'Hôtel. Cut some slices of salmon in the shape of chops. Put them into a sauté pan with some clarified butter, pepper, and salt, and sautez or toss them when dinner-time is come, over an equal fire. Drain the butter well, and dish the slices of salmon en couronne. Send up with a maître d’hôtel. For salmon, you must not use any cream, as this fish is already heavy for the stomach ; put into a stew-pan three spoonfuls of sauce tournée well reduced ; add to it a thickening of one egg, and refine the sauce with a quarter of a pound of Epping butter, some salt, a little Cayenne, the juice of half a lemon, and some parsley chopped very fine ; work this sauce very fine, and use it when wanted. No. 4.-Salad of Salmon. This is an entremet which is recurred to on economical principles, when there is any salmon left. Let it cool, and cut it nicely into hearts, or square lozenges. Decorate these with fillets of anchovies, pickled cucumbers, fine capers, and chopped eggs, to which add a few hearts of 266 sturgeon is done, have the sauce made as No. 29, page 89, and use it to mask the fish. No. 3.--Sturgeon à la Ude. Boil the sturgeon in salt and water. When it is done, drain and mask it with the following sauce: reduce in a small stew-pan four spoonfuls of elder vinegar. When it is half reduced, put in six spoonfuls of velouté, or rather a quantity proportionate to the size of the fish, half a spoonful of cavice, a quarter of a pound of butter, and some salt and pepper. Work this sauce well; drain the fish, and mask it with the sauce. In order to keep it thick and white, mix with it a little thick cream. No. 4.-Blanquette of Sturgeon à la Paysanne. When you have some roasted sturgeon returned, keep it to make a blanquette. Pare some round pieces nicely, of the size of half-a-crown, and put them into a sauce à blanquette, to which you add a little chopped parsley, and the juice of a lemon. This blanquette is sent to table : like all others in a vol au vent, or a casserole au ris. No. 5.— Blanquette of Sturgeon, with Green Peas. If you have any sturgeon left, that is still very fresh, make a blanquette with peas, which not requiring to be highly seasoned, will admit only of fish which is extremely sweet. After having simmered the peas as they are always prepared for the second course, take three spoonfuls of sauce tournée, and reduce it with four spoonfuls of the peas : add a very small bit of sugar. When your sauce is very thick, put to it a thickening of two yolks of eggs, then put the sturgeon to it, and serve either in a vol au vent, or in a bordure of potatoes. Observe, that in this entrée the seasoning must be very mild. 267 : No.6.--Croquettes of Sturgeon. STURGEON is a fish absolutely resembling veal; when fresh, it is as white as the finest veal. If it is red, there is nothing to be done with it. If there is any returned, of a very good white, but not a sufficient quantity to make a croquette, make small timballes (See Pastry); cut the stur- geon into dice, and put them into a sauce similar to that mentioned (No. 6.—Timballes de Turbot.) After having cut enough fish into dice to make the croquettes, take a velouté reduced, and some mushrooms cut into dice, to which add a small lump of butter, salt, &c. and put the fish into that sauce. Let them cool, and then dip them into crumbs of bread, as prescribed for other croquettes. Serve some fried parsley in the centre of the dish. COD No. 1.-Cod with Oyster Sauce. After having emptied the cod, you must open the sound or white skin of the belly, wash it carefully all along the bone, that there may be no blood remaining. Mind that the fish is absolutely white, then lay it on a fish plate, and put it into the kettle with salt and boiling spring water: as soon as you see the fish boil fast, slacken it, and let it boil more gently, or else the outside will be done and the middle will be raw: as it is not easy to fix the time that it ought to remain in the water, you must judge according to the size of the fish ; when done, drain it, and serve it on a napkin garnished with green parsley. (See Oyster Sauce, No. 94, p. 39.) No. 2.-Cod with Cream Sauce. PREPARE and boil the cod as above. But after having drained it, take the skin off, and mask the fish with the 269 No.5.—Scollops of Cod à la Maître d'Hôtel.. Make a maître d'hôtel, into which put the scollops; sea- son them pretty high, and add the juice of a lemon. Send them up to table quite hot, for a cold dinner is good for nothing, particularly fish. SALT COD. No. 1.-Salt Cod à la Maître d'Hôtel. The black skinned ones are generally reckoned the best. Be particular in having the salt well soaked out, put the fish into cold water, and put it on the fire. Let it be done in a large vessel, that it may have plenty of room. The mo- ment it is beginning to boil, take it off the fire, and keep it in the water well covered; it then will be tender, but, if it should boil, it will be tough and thready. Make a maître d'hôtel with half a pound of butter, a spoonful of flour, four or five spoonfuls of water, and a little salt. Taste the fish, and if required put a little more salt and pepper. Then put it on the fire without allowing it to boil. When the sauce begins to thicken, work it well, that it may be more mellow. Have some parsley chopped very fine, mix a pinch of it with a little glaze and the juice of a lemon. Then taste the sauce. If it be too brown, put in a little thick cream, which will make it both whiter and more mellow. Take away the skin and bones of the fish, and put it into the sauce, shaking it gently for fear of breaking it. Send it up either in a vol au vent, or in a deep dish with croutons of puff-paste. 270 No. 2.-Salt Cod à la Provençale. After having drawn out the salt, and done the fish as, above, pound two or three heads of garlick, which throw into a stew-pan with two spoonfuls of oil, a quarter of a pound of butter, a little salt, and some coarse pepper Continue shaking the stew-pan with its contents. Put in the salt fish quite hot, and keep shaking till the whole is well mixed together. If you should find that it is not mellow enough, add a little oil, and a spoonful of velouté. Such entrées require to be highly seasoned, and will induce the guests to send the bottle round freely. No. 3.-Salt Cod with Cream Sauce. The same process as No 2, p. 267. You may send it up to table in a vol au vent, or a bord de plat panné, &c. No. 4.-Salt Cod à la Bonne Femme. This is the same thing nearly as No.1. Only boil some potatoes, and let them stand till they are cold; turn them into corks, and then cut them into round slices much about the size of a half-crown piece, which put with the sauce and salt fish. Taste, and season well. No.5.-Salt Cod à la Lyonaise. The same process as usual ; boil it in water. Cut some onions into dice, which fry in butter till they are very brown. Dust them over with a little flour. Moisten with milk or cream. Let the onions be well done; mix a good lump of butter, and season the sauce of a good taste. Put the fish into the sauce, and serve up quite hot. 271 No.6.--Salt Cod plain, Egg Sauce. Draw out the salt, and boil it as above, in the French way. Have some parsnips well done, which dish round the fish. Boil a few eggs hard, chop them, and throw them into melted butter, which send up in a boat. WHITINGS. No. 1.-Broiled Whitings. Empty the whitings, scale them, but mind that you preserve the liver, which is very delicate. When you have washed and wiped them clean, slit the back on both sides. Beat the yolk of an egg with a little salt and pepper, and rub some of it over the whitings with a brush. Then dip the fish into crumbs of bread, next into clarified butter, and then into crumbs of bread again. Broil them of a fine colour, and serve up. The sauce is to be sent up separately in a boat, whether it is a maître d'hôtel, anchovy sauce, or melted butter. Send up the sauce separately; for if you were to pour the sauce over the fish, the whiting would not prove palatable, and the sauce would get too thick. No.2.-Fillets of Whitings à la Orlie. After having scaled, emptied, and washed the whit- ings, take up the fillets. Pare them nicely on both sides, without damaging the skin. Cut each fillet in two pieces of an equal size, and put them into an earthen-pan with a few stalks of parsley, and a few shalots shredded, some salt, pepper, and the juice of a lemon; stir the whole in the lemon-juice. Let it marinade for about three hours. Then drain the fillets on a clean towel. Next beat the whites of 272 two eggs, so that they may stick to the fillets. Mix some crumbs of bread and flour, dip the fillets into the whites of eggs, and in the crumbs of bread and flour, and fry the whole just before they are wanted, in very hot dripping, that they may be served up hot, with white sharp sauce. (No. 25, page 11.). No.3.-Quenelles of Whitings. The same process as for other quenelles. The mixtures are the same. You may make a vast number of entrées with quenelles of whitings, such as quenelles à l'Allemande in a vol au vent, a casserole au ris, and boudins either à la Ude, or à la Richelieu, which you have poached and cooled. Brush them over with an omelette and crumbs of bread, and fry them. Serve under it an Italienne, refined with a good lump of butter, &c. All entrées of fish require some additional butter in the sauce. No. 4.-Boudins of Whiting à la Ude. Make a farce à quenelles, as for other quenelles. Take the spawn of a lobster, which pound well, with a little butter, and strain through a sieve. Mix the whole well with the farce à quenelles. Then mould two boudins of the diameter of your dish. Poach them. When they are done, drain them on a clean towel, then have the tail of a very red lobster, and scollop it in several pieces. Next slit the boudins, and cover them with white béchamelle, then intro- duce the pieces of lobster in the same way as if you were mak- ing a conti, observing to put the red part upward. When the boudins are equally decorated, lay them in a dish, cover them hermetically, and put them for a moment in the hot closet to keep them hot. For the sauce, take two spoonfuls of sauce tournée, which reduce with an equal quantity of consommé, and a thickening of two yolks of eggs. Work 273 quarter of a pound of butter, seasoned with a very little Cayenne, some salt, and a little lemon-juice. Keep it rather liquid, in order to mask the intervals between the contis of lobster. If you pay proper attention to the mak- ing of this entrée, it will not merely afford a pleasing ap- pearance, but will also be found a relish for the epicure. No.5.-Fillets of Whiting broiled à la Maître d'Hótel. Take up the fillets of four whitings, after having washed them clean. Cut each fillet in two, brush them with yolks of eggs, seasoned with pepper and salt, and dip them into crumbs of bread, and next into clarified butter. Broil them of a fine brown, dish them en miroton, and sauce them with the maître d'hôtel. N.B.--Fillets of whitings never answer when sautez, as they have not substance enough; and indeed I do not altogether approve of their being dressed in that style. No. 6.- Paupiettes of Fillets of Whiting. TAKE up the fillets of four whitings, and pare them equally. Spread some farce à quenelles over the white side; then roll the fillets. Erect a small dome with some of the same farce, in the dish you mean to send up your fish in. Lay one row of fillets round the dish. Put farce enough to support the second middle row, and finally put one or three fillets in the centre of the dish, according to the space that is left. Sprinkle a little salt over, then cover the fish with buttered paper, that the fillets may bake without getting dry. They will be done in the course of twenty minutes. Then take them out of the oven, and wipe the dish clean. Put a good lump of butter, about a quarter of a pound, into an Italienne, with a little essence of anchovies ; work the sauce, season it well, and mask the fillets with it. 274 No.7.- Whitings au gratin. After having scaled, emptied, and washed the whitings, wipe them clean. Preserve the liver. Take a silver dish, if you have one, if not, a baking-pan. Rub the bottom over with butter, and sprinkle it over with parsley and mushrooms chopped very fine, over which lay the whitings. Then take some rasps of bread, that are not burnt, and sprinkle them over the whitings, with pepper, salt, and nutmeg; then again dust them over with sweet herbs ; namely, parsley and mushrooms chopped very fine. (If shalots are approved of, you may add some.) Next lay small lumps of butter on the whitings, pour into the dish a glass or two of white wine, and bake them in a hot oven. They will be done within a quarter of an hour, or twenty minutes, according to their size. Serve them up with the juice of a lemon, and no other sauce. This is a very palatable dish, but a common one ; if there is too much sauce, reduce it on a stove, as it must be very short. No.8.--Whitings fried. ACCORDING to the French fashion, you must not flay the whitings; only slit and dip them in flour, and then fry them in very hot dripping, and serve them without any sauce. In England they take off the skin, and fasten the tail in the mouth; they are then dipped into an omelette, then in a little flour and crumbs of bread. Fry them of a fine colour, and serve them up on a cloth, garnished with parsley, and send the shrimp sauce in a boat. Shrimp sauce as follows: put into a stew-pan a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a tea-spoonful of flour, a small glass of water, some salt and pepper, and a spoonful of essence of anchovies ; put this on the stove; as soon as the sauce 276 out the skin, as they look better so: do them in the oven as other paupiettes; drain the butter, and serve. Use the same sauce as for whitings, (See No. 6, page 273), or white sharp sauce, (No. 25, page 11). No. 3.–Fillets of Soles sautez à la Ravigotte. First scale the soles, and wash them, but do not empty them. Take up the fillets; by running your knife first between the bone and the flesh, then between the skin and the fillet; by leaning pretty hard on the table, you may be sure they will come off very neatly. Cut them in two. Mark them in a sauté pan with some clarified butter, and dust them over with pepper and salt. When dinner-time is come, sautez them over a very brisk fire, turn them over, and when done, drain them on a sheet of white paper. Dish them either en couronne, or en miroton. Cover them, and keep them hot. Do not forget to drain the water which has issued from the fillets, before you pour the sauce over them. (See below Ravigotte à la Créme.) Ravigotte à la Créme.—Put into a small stew-pan, three spoonfuls of very thick béchamelle or sauce à la créme, one tea-spoonful of cavice, one ditto of elder vinegar, one ditto of vinegar à la ravigotte, and a quarter of a pound of very fresh butter; mix all this with salt and a very little Cayenne, add a tea-spoonful of parsley chopped very fine, that has been blanched in salt water, that it may be very green, drain it on a sieve, and press the water out of it, in order to keep your ravigotte sauce thick enough to cover the fillets. You must make this sauce very smooth and palat- able; as the cavice darkens the sauce, add to it a spoonful of double cream. No.4.--Fillets of Soles à la Orlie. The same process, and the same sauce as for fillets of whiting, No. 2, page 271. 277 No. 5.-Timballes of Fillets of Soles à la Vénitienne. When you have served soles, either fried or boiled, you must preserve a sufficient quantity to make an entrée on the following day. Pare well the skin, and cut the meat into small dice. Take two spoonfuls of béchamelle, which mix with a quarter of a pound of very fresh butter; add to it a little parsley chopped very fine, a tea-spoonful of cavice (from Mackay's), and half a tea-spoonful of elder vinegar. Keep the whole hot, without boiling. Put the small dice of fish into this sauce, season it with pepper and salt; fill the little timballes, and serve up quite hot. The timballes are to be made in dariole moulds. No. 6.– Vol au Vent of Fillets of Soles with Cream Sauce. This is another entrée of desserte* Pare the skin ; cut the soles into round pieces of the size of half-a-crown. Then have a sauce à la crême, or else four spoonfuls of béchamelle, mixed with a quarter of a pound of butter, a little salt and pepper. Let the sauce be made hot, without boiling, put the soles into it, and then the whole mixed, into a vol au vent. The sauce must be kept rather thick, for fear of making the crust soft. No. 7.--Fillets of Soles à l'Aurore. Take up the fillets of four soles: skin them on both sides. Have ready a farce à quenelles, made of whitings, with the spawn of lobsters put in, to make it look reddish. Spread this farce over each fillet, then roll them in the same manner as the paupiettes. Next skewer them with silver skewers, three to each skewer ; dust a little pepper and * Entrée of desserte, means something left from the preceding day. 278 salt over them. Season the farce rather high. Lay the skewered fillets in a baking-pan, cover them with layers of bacon, and bake them. When they are done, take off the skewers, pare the farce that has over-reached, and dish them neatly. With a part of the pounded lobster's spawn which you have kept aside, mix two spoonfuls of sauce tournée, deprived of all fat, and a good lump of fresh but- ter; drain the whole through a tammy, in order that it may be fine. Add to it a little essence of anchovies, with pep- per, salt, and lemon-juice. Keep the sauce very hot, and mask the fillets with it. No. 8.-Soles à la Miromesnil. Take three soles, scale them on both sides, and empty them nicely without injuring the flesh. Make an inci- sion on the black side. Fry them without dipping them into flour. When they are done, drain them on a clean cloth; open the place where you have made the incision, cut the bone near the head and tail, and draw it out. Let the fish cool. Make a maître d'hôtel cold; that is to say, mix a lump of butter with some parsley chopped very fine, pepper, salt, and the juice of a lemon. Divide the butter into three equal parts, and put one part into the opening of each sole, close the opening, and make the whole stick by means of the yolk of an egg; put a few crumbs of bread at the joint. Then dip the soles into an omelette of two eggs, and next into crumbs of bread, equally on all sides. When dinner-time is come, fry the soles in hot dripping, They are done as soon as they have got a colour. The sauce is found in the sole itself. This is what we call in France an entrée bourgeoise. 279 No.9.--Aspic and Salad of Fillets of Soles, with Butter of Montpelier. Butter of Montpelier.—Take a handful of chervil, tarra- gon, burnet, and green onions; wash them very clean, and blanch them in boiling water, with a handful of salt to keep them as green as possible. When they have boiled six minutes, take them out, and put them into cold water till quite cold: you must have ready some hard-boiled eggs; drain the herbs, and squeeze all the water out; put them into the mortar, and pound them very fine; add the yolks of eight eggs, ten or twelve anchovies, cleaned and boned, two spoonfuls of fine capers, a very little garlick, some salt, a little Cayenne, and a little nutmeg; pound all this till very fine, then add half a pound of very fresh butter, a spoonful of sweet oil, and a spoonful of elder or tarragon vinegar; taste if the seasoning is very palatable. Rub it all through a sieve, and to make it of a greener colour, add some green of spinach; you must be particular in observing that none of the different herbs should predominate: put this butter into ice, and you may use it for borders of salads of fish, &c. &c. When you want to make this butter red, you must infuse all the herbs in a little boiled vinegar, and use lob- ster spawn to colour it, instead of the green of spinach. It is occasionally requisite to dress soles on purpose, to make either aspics, or salad ; in this case it is better to fry them with the skin, rather than take up the fillets and sautez them. When they are fried, the fillets come off neater, and without any scum. If, however, you have sent up to table an entrée, or a dish of fillets of soles, that has been returned untouched, you may make a salad with them. Pare them nicely. Endeavour always to procure some green salad, of any sort, to dish them with. Nature will 281 No. 10.-Croquettes of Fillets of Soles. SEVERAL books mention croquettes of salmon, and cro- quettes of cod, which are certainly not eatable. Sturgeon and soles are the only two fishes which have a sufficient firmness to allow of their being made into croquettes. The oftener a fish is presented to the fire, the more unpalatable it becomes. With regard to the croquettes of soles, reduce the sauce, cut the soles into small dice, and throw them into it, season them well, and put the whole preparation into ice. When cold, cut them into equal parts on a dish. Roll them either round, or oval, but never into pears; dip them into an omelette of three eggs, two whites of which you have laid aside; put a little salt, and then dip them into crumbs of bread, fry them of a good colour, and serve them up with crisp fried green parsley in the middle. No. 11.–Fillets of Soles à la Turque. Take off and sautez the fillets as directed before. Have some rice swelled, and made soft in good consommé; mix it with a few.spoonfuls of good velouté, to put in the mid- dle of the dish: this rice must be thick, in order that it may be dished in a pyramid. To mask the soles, take three spoonfuls of velouté, mixed with a quarter of a pound of butter, a tea-spoonful of cavice, and a little salt and pepper. Work this sauce well, and mask the fillets only. The rice is to form the centre of the turban, as implied by the title. FRESH HERRINGS. HERRINGS are an excellent fish; but the flesh is so deli- cate, that no cook attempts to dress them otherwise than broiled or fried. Those with soft roes are the most delicate. 282 You know them to be very fresh when the eyes are very red, and the scales shine bright. You must broil them over a brisk fire, but never wash them. Empty and scale them carefully; cut off a small piece of the tail, and of the head, to prevent them from burning. Send them to table with mustard sauce in a boat. Soft Roes of Herrings, in Cases. Have a paper case, either round or square; its size must be suited to the dish you are going to use: spread some butter over the bottom. Broil eight very fresh soft-roed herrings, and when well done, take out the roes, and put them, without breaking, into the case. Sprinkle over them a little pepper, salt, rasped bread, and finely chopped pars- ley; put a few small bits of butter over them in different places, and bake them in a hot oven. When they are done, put a little maître d'hôtel into the case, with the juice of a lemon. Send up quite hot, and very firm. PIPER. This fish is not in the repute which it deserves; for when it is well-dressed, it is superior to any other, but it must be used when very fresh. No. 1.-Baked Piper, Dutch Sauce. Empty and clean this fish as you do every other; then make a good stuffing in the following manner: two handfuls of crumbs of bread, the same quantity of beef suet well chopped, parsley, and a little thyme chopped very fine, two whole eggs, a drop of cream, a small bit of butter, salt, a little Cayenne pepper, and a very little spice ground very fine; mix this very well, and put it into the belly of the fish, 283 and sew it up; bind the tail of the fish to the mouth, and fasten it with a skewer, then rub the fish all over with a brush dipped into the yolk of an egg: sprinkle over some salt, then some crumbs of bread, and baste with clarified butter; then put this to bake in a very hot oven, in order to give it a good colour. When done, drain it, and serve up with Dutch sauce. No. 2.–Fillets of Piper à la Sefton. Take one large piper, or three small ones, strip the flesh from the bone, and divide it into fillets of the same shape; then put them into a sauté pan with clarified butter, as for other fillets, with salt and pepper; when it is dinner- time put them on the stove, or into the oven; when done, drain them, and dish them the same as fillets of soles, and the sauce is the same; but they are better eating than either soles or whitings. (See White Sharp Sauce, page 11, No. 25.) No.3.-Fillets of Piper à la Muître d'Hôtel. The same as No.2, only you must use the mattre d'hôtel instead of white sharp sauce. No.4.-Fillets of Piper à la Orlie. The same as fillets of whiting, No. 2, page 271. serve that the piper is best when red. Ob- RED MULLET. This fish is in great repute, and deserves it, for the deli- cacy of its flesh ; you may boil them; but in general to eat them in great perfection, you must wash them well, but not empty them: drain them very dry in a clean cloth; then have some buttered paper and a little salt, wrap them well 284 in it, and put them into the oven, or broil them if you have no oven; they may be eaten with lobster sauce, or anchovy sauce alone; send them to table without the paper. MACKAREL No. 1.--Mackarel broiled à la Maître d'Hótel. MACKAREL is a fish generally esteemed by all ranks of people. The rich eat it on account of its good savour, the poor because it is cheap. It must not be washed, when intended to be broiled. Empty and wipe it well. Open the back, and put into it a little salt and oil. Broil it on a gentle fire; turn it over on both sides, and also on the back. With the point of your knife try if it is done, by detaching the bone from the flesh. Send it up with a maître d'hôtel melted, in a boat. When you wish to eat them very good, and have the taste of the fish, they must not be washed; only pull out the eyes, and empty the intestines; then wipe them clean and dry with a damp cloth ; next make an in- cision on the back, put over them some salt and pepper, and a drop of sweet oil, to prevent them from sticking to the gridiron; broil them well, and then put into the back some butter, kneaded with chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and lemon, &c. as directed above. No. 2.--Mackarel boiled. When the mackarel have been emptied and washed clean, put them into boiling water, with a handful of salt, and let them boil very fast, that they may be firmer. When they are done, drain them, and serve them on a cloth with green fennel all round. For the sauce, blanch some fennel in salt and water. When it is quite soft, drain it, chop it, and mix it with the melted butter. Gooseberries are also 287 ANCHOVIES. ANCHOVIES are a salt fish of great utility, and of frequent necessity in cookery. Essence of anchovies is a thing which a skilful cook must use with great care, as it is not always made with the fish only, but also with the brine of it, which consequently makes it very unhealthy. Make butter of anchovies yourself, in the following manner: for a dozen of anchovies, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter will do. First wash the anchovies, so that no slime whatever may remain. Take off the bones and fins. Pound the meat with the butter. When well pounded rub the whole through a hair sieve, and secure it in a gallipot well covered. Use butter of anchovies when wanted, for either canapés, salads, fish sauce, &c.; anchovies are very seldom used with meat. SMELTS. Smelts are most generally fried. After they have been cleaned and emptied, wipe them very dry, and dip them into an omelette of two eggs, and into crumbs of bread mixed with flour. Fry them of a fine colour, and send them up with fried parsley round them. SKATE. No. 1.-Skate, with Caper Sauce. Stew the skate in a marinade, that is to say, in a ves- sel with water, vinegar, salt, pepper, a sliced onion, parsley, green onions, bay-leaves, and thyme. When it is done, pick it neatly, and remove it into another clean vessel ; pour over it some of the liquor in which it has been boil- 288 ing, then drain it and send it up to table, either entire or in pieces, with caper sauce; or in hearts, masked with the same sauce. No. 2.-Skate au Beurre noir. Fry some parsley very green. Dish the skate according to your fancy. For an entrée you must either cut it into the shape of kites, or rounds. Put the fried parsley in the middle of the dish, and the beurre noir under the fish. No. 3.—Skate plain boiled. TAKE off the skin. Boil it in salt and water, and send it up on a clean cloth with shrimp sauce, or any other sauce in a boat. No. 4.-Small Skates fried. When the skates are very small, pickle them in vinegar, salt, pepper, a sliced onion, some parsley, and lemon- juice, for about an hour. Next drain them and dip them into an omelette, and then into flour. Next fry them in hot dripping, and send them up either with or without sauce. This fish is very seldom used for entrées in Eng- land; when it is boiled with marinade, the skin must remain while boiling, otherwise the colour of the marinade will dye the fish : take off the skin after it is done, and dress it in the dish immediately. MIROTON OF FLOUNDERS A L'ITALIENNE. Cut each flounder in two, and take out all the small bones. Butter a dish d'entrée, and dish the flounders en miroton; dust them over with salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, chopped mushrooms, parsley, green onions, and raspings of bread: to which add a little butter. Then bake them. 289 When they are done, drain the butter, and send them up with an Italienne or caper sauce; add a little essence of anchovies, and lemon-juice. This fish, as well as plaice, is seldom used for entrées in England. When you give them as fish, they are to be dressed the same as soles, either fried or boiled. PLAICE. See Flounders. Plaice can only be fried, or made en miroton as above. LOBSTER. Lobsters are boiled in the same manner as craw-fish, but they would have a better savour, if sea-water could be had to boil them in. Several ragoûts are made of lobsters. Pies for entrées ; salades for entremets; fish sauce, and minces in the shell, &c. You must pay attention to the proper time required for boiling a lobster; if you boil it too long, the flesh becomes thready, and disagreeable; and if not done enough, the spawn is not red through : this must be obviated by great attention. No. 1.-Small Timbals of Lobster, au velouté. Cut according to their size, the white flesh of one or two lobsters into small dice; put them into a sauce similar to that of pâtés of fillets of soles, and serve them up quite hot. This is an entrée. The spawn will serve for fish sauce, or for any other use; as quenelles, or salads, &c. &c. 294 cool. Then skewer the oysters according to the size of your dish, and with your knife spread the sauce all round. Throw crumbs of bread over the oysters; next dip them into an omelette, and then into crumbs again. Fry them of a fine brown, and serve them up without any sauce. The sauce d'attelets is made as follows: fry some herbs in a little butter, put a spoonful of flour, moisten with the liquor of the oysters, season it well, reduce the sauce, then thicken it with the yolks of three eggs, and pour it over the oysters. Let the whole stand till cold, and then make the attelets in the same way as other attelets; the sauce must be only béchamelle, with the taste of oysters. 295 OF EGGS IN GENERAL. Eggs are indispensable in cookery. They are used for a prodigious number of entrées, entremets and sauces. Eggs are the fundamental stone of all pastry, as well as of creams. I shall endeavour to shew all the manners in which they may be used, either for first or second courses. No. 1.-Omelette Moëlleuse. BREAK eight eggs into an earthen pan with a little pep- per and salt, and a sufficient quantity of water to melt the salt. Beat the eggs well: then throw an ounce and a half of fresh butter into a frying-pan, and melt it over a brisk fire: pour the eggs into the pan, which is not to be kept too close to the fire. Keep turning continually, but never let the middle part of it be over the fire, for it is always rather too hot. Gather all the border together, and roll the omelette before it gets too much done. The middle part must always be kept mellow. Roll it equally with your knife before you dish it, and take care not to let the pan soil the dish, in turning out the omelette into it. . No.2.-L'Omelette aux fines Herbes. The same preparation as above, with the addition only of a little parsley chopped very fine. Some people mix a few chopped shalots likewise, which may be done if ap- proved of. 296 No. 3.-Small Omelettes with Ham. Mark these omelettes as above. If you have some ham which has served as a remove, mince about a quarter of a pound of it, which you throw into a little very thick Espag- nole. Then make small omelettes of about two eggs each. Before you roll them, put in a spoonful of the minced ham. You may make four or six, according to the size of the dish. Take care not to put too much salt; and if the ham is briny, do not put any salt at all. You may put four or five ome- lettes to one dish. (This is a second course dish.) No. 4.- Small Omelettes with Sorrel. MAKE small omelettes as above. Have some sorrel ready. stewed, which you put on each of the omelettes before you roll them, the same as above with ham. Give them a pleas- ing shape and colour. The same number as above. No.5.-Omelette with Kidney of Veal. If you have remaining the kidney of a roasted loin of veal, chop it, and put it into an omelette prepared as in No. 1. Make it mellow, and season it properly with salt. No.6.--Small Omelettes with Sweet meats. Make small omelettes as above. Let them be done pro- perly. Put in the sweetmeats before you roll the omelettes, and lay them on the cover of a stew-pan. When they are all made, sprinkle over them a little finely-pounded sugar, and then use the salamander to glaze them of a fine co- lour. All omelettes are always second course dishes, called entremets. 297 No.7.-Fried Eggs. BREAK some fresh eggs into a dish, without damaging the yolks, and powder them over with a little pepper and salt. Then fry some butter; a quarter of a pound will do for a dozen of eggs. When the butter is completely fried, pour it over the eggs, and then put the eggs into the frying-pan, which keep at a little distance from the fire, for fear the eggs should stick. When they are done at the bottom, use the salamander for the top, till they turn white. Then dish without breaking them, and pour over them a little vinegar. No. 8.-Eggs au Miroir. Butter the dish in which you are to send up the eggs, break eight of them, but mind that they are fresh, sea- soned with pepper and salt: then cut small pieces of but- ter over the eggs, and use the salamander, and a small fire under, till they are quite white. They must not be too much done. No. 9.-Poached Eggs. Boil some water with a little vinegar. Take some fresh eggs, and break the point of the shell with your knife, that the egg may drop into the water without breaking. Turn with the shell to gather all the white round the yolk. Never poach more than four at a time. As soon as they are done, take them out, one at a time, and throw them .... into cold water. When you have poached the number you want, pare them well. Then with your finger rub them gently over in the water, that they may be very neat and white. They must be very soft. These serve for a great number of entrées and entremets. They may be served with sorrel, spinach, gravy of veal, &c. &c. 299 little nutmeg, and half a pint of cream. Then stew this sauce till thick, but do not let it boil. Chop half the whites of the eggs, and throw it into the sauce. Next dish the whites, pour the yolks over them equally, baste them with a little butter, and use the salamander. Then serve up. No. 14.-Eggs en surprise. Cur a dozen and a half of eggs (boiled hard) in two. Take all the yolks and pound, them in a mortar, with a quartern, or if you choose with half a pound of butter, with which mix a little cream, pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. When you have pounded about half an hour, add two raw eggs to thicken the farce. Then pare out the inside of the whites, and fill one half of them again with the farce. Next mix some chopped parsley with part of the farce, and fill the other half of the eggs. Erect a little dome in the centre of the dish with some of the farce, and trim it all round with the stuffed eggs; contrive to give them a pleasing appearance. Next put them into an oven for ten minutes, and send them up quite hot. In paring the in- side of the whites, you must leave only just enough to keep in the farce. No. 15.--Croquettes of Eggs. Cu'r the white of a dozen and a half of eggs (boiled hard) into small dice. Strain the yolks of six eggs through a hair sieve. Cut a couple of onions into dice, sweat them white in a quarter of a pound of butter, then put a spoon- ful of flour to fry; moisten with boiling milk, and season with salt and pepper. Next throw both the whites and yolks into the sauce. Let them cool, and cover them with crumbs of bread, as you do all other croquettes. If you were to put in all the yolks, the croquettes, would get too 301 butter, with a little salt and some coarse pepper. Lay these over some red hot ashes, and then use the salaman- der till the eggs are done soft. No. 19.-Eggs brouillés. THERE are various sorts of eggs brouillés, namely:-with champignons, with cardes, with truffes, with cucumbers, with verjuice, with broth, and with asparagus heads, which are made as follows: Break eight eggs into a clean stew-pan with half a quar- ter of a pound of butter, and a little salt and pepper; beat the eggs till the whites and yolks are well blended. Then put the stew-pan on a slow fire, and keep constantly stir- ring with a wooden spoon; mind that the eggs brouillés are never to be grumous, or clotty. A spoonful of broth or sauce makes them more delicate. 304 No.4.-Cardons à la Sauce blanche. The same preparation as above, only sauce with the sauce blanche, or French melted butter. SPINACH. No. 1.-Spinach au Consommé.. You must take particular care when the spinach is picked, that no stalks nor weed are left amongst it. The least oversight may cause the spinach to be good for nothing, notwithstanding all the trouble you might take in cooking it. It must be washed several times in a great quantity of water. Then boil some water in a vessel large enough for the spinach to float with ease. Put a great deal of salt, that it may preserve its green colour, and press it down frequently, that it may be done equally. When it has had a few boils, try whether it can be squeezed easily, then without loss of time put it into a cullender to drain the water. Next throw it into a great quantity of cold water to keep it green. When it is quite cold, make it into balls and squeeze it well. Then spread it on the table with your knife, to ascertain that no improper substance is left among it. Chop it very fine; put a good piece of butter into a stew-pan, and lay the spinach over the butter. Let it dry over a gentle fire, and next dredge it with a handful of flour. Moisten with a few spoonfuls of consommé, and let it stew briskly, that it may not turn yellow. Make it rich with a small piece of glaze. If you intend to send it up as an entrée with a ham, or a tongue, &c. you must mix a few spoonfuls of Espagnole, and let it be well seasoned. Some people like nutmeg; in that case,you may grate a little into it. 305 Spinach thus prepared may be used with a fricandeau, sweetbreads of veal, and breasts of veal or of mutton. No. 2.-Spinach with Cream. Blanch and prepare it as above, only use cream instead of broth. Boil the cream before you throw it over the spinach. If it should curdle, the cream only is lost, whereas otherwise you would lose the spinach, butter and all. Spinach with cream requires a little sugar and nut- meg. It is needless to repeat, that a little salt is also re- quisite, as there can be no good seasoning without it. You must always have fried toasts of bread round the spinach when you send it up to table, or some 'made of puff-paste flourets; but mind that they must both be fresh made. No. 3.- Spinach French fashion. This dish in Paris is called à l'Anglaise. The spinach is to be blanched as above. Squeeze it well, and pound it in a mortar. Then mark it in a stew-pan with a little but- ter. Leave it for three quarters of an hour on a very slow fire till very dry. Next throw in a quarter of a pound of very fresh butter, with salt, and grated nutmeg. Work the spinach well, till it is thick ; but take care the butter does not turn to oil. No. 4.-Croustades of Spinach. This dish is introduced merely for the sake of variety. Cut some bread into hearts, which you slit all round. Fry them in butter. Arrange those hearts in the form of a Next cut a round of bread, which slit in the same manner, and place it in the middle, over the points of the hearts. Fry these till they are of a fine brown, then rose 306 cut out the interior, take out all the crumb, and fill the vacuity with spinach, either with cream or consommé. Ob- serve, that when spinach is dressed to put under meat, whether fricandeau or sweetbread, &c. it must be more seasoned than when dressed for entremets, and a little more liquid, as it is like sauce. ENDIVE. No. 1.-Endive with Gravy of Veal. Wasy and clean twelve heads of endive, and beware of the worms, which generally are found in the heart. After having taken off all the green part of the leaves, wash the endive again in two or three different waters, and blanch them to take off the bitter taste. Then throw them into cold water, and when quite cold, squeeze them till there is no water left in them, then chop them very fine. Next stew them in a sufficient quantity of gravy to cover them entirely, to which add a little salt, and a very small lump of sugar to qualify the bitter tart taste of the endive. As- certain if they are done enough, by squeezing a bit between two fingers ; if very tender, they are done. Then add two spoonfuls of Espagnole reduced, and use them either for entremets under poached eggs, or for entrées, such as minces of mutton,' muzettes of mutton, carbonades, fricundeaux, sweetbreads, fillets of fowl, &c. &c. No. 2.-Endive au Velouté. The same preparation as above, but instead of gravy, use consommé, and in lieu of Espagnole, take velouté. En- dive must always be stewed in broth, or gravy, or con- sommé. The sauce must not boil when you pour it over the endive, especially if it is cream sauce. If you wish the sauce to be white, add some thick cream to it. 307 No. 3.--Endive à la Française. The same preparation again as in No. 1. When the endive is done in the broth as above, reduce it quite dry; put in a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a little salt, nutmeg, and pepper. Mix all together, and serve up very hot. CAULIFLOWER. CAULIFLOWERS are never good but when white and hard, and are never used in French cookery when they begin to run to seed. No. 1.-Cauliflowers à la Sauce blanche. AFTER having torn off all the green leaves, it is requisite you should open the cauliflower, to remove the snails or other insects, which are liable to creep towards the heart, For this purpose leave the cauliflower in cold water for an hour. Next throw it into boiling water, with a little salt and butter. This vegetable being very tender is soon done. If you wish to boil it beforehand, take it off the fire when only half done, as its being left in boiling water will soon finish it. Drain them separately, without breaking them, dish them in the shape of a large cauliflower, and pour the sauce over them. (See Sauce blanche.) No. 2.--Cauliflower au Velouté. The same preparation as above, with the only difference, that you use velouté instead of sauce blanche. x 2 309 them into pieces of an equal size, and throw them into water with a little vinegar, or lemon-juice, to prevent their getting black. When you have scraped a sufficient quan- tity, boil them in water enough for them to swim with ease, put a little salt and a small bit of butter. They will generally be done in three quarters of an hour ; yet it is better to ascertain the fact by taking a piece out of the water, and trying with your knife whether they are done enough, which is the case when the knife penetrates easily. Drain the salsifis, and send them up with whatever sauce you think proper. It is generally served with velouté, or sauce blanche, or French melted butter. " No. 1.-Salsifis au Velouté. The same preparation as above. Only observe that such sauces as are sent up with vegetables, must always be refined, and thickened with fresh butter ; never forget salt and a little Cayenne. No. 2.-Salsifis à l'Espagnole. The same preparation as in No. 1. Only use Espagnole instead of sauce blanche. No. 3.-Fried Salsifis. Make a batter as follows : take six spoonfuls of flour, a small pinch of salt, a spoonful of olive oil, and beat the whole with beer, enough to make it into batter, but do not make it too liquid. Then beat the whites of two eggs, and when well beaten, pour them into the batter, which you keep stirring gently. Next put the vegetables, that are done beforehand and well drained in a cloth, into the bat- ter; take them out again one by one, and throw them into 310 the dripping. Use a skewer, to prevent their sticking to. gether. When fried of a fine colour and crisp, send them up with fried parsley in the centre of the dish, and a little pounded salt sprinkled over the vegetables. No. 4.-Salsifis en Salade or Aspic. TAKE salsifis enough to fill a mould of the size of the dish; then boil them in the same way as the others; drain and cut them of the length of the mould; dress them like a Chartreuse, dip them into a little aspic, to stick them to- gether all round the mould, and fill the middle with a salad of small bits of salsifis all of the same size; then season with salt, pepper, a little oil and vinegar, and a little aspic; put also some parsley chopped very fine ; toss the whole, and put it in the mould into ice. At dinner, dip a rubber into hot water, rub the mould all round with it, and turn the salad out on the dish to serve up. ARTICHOKES. ARTICHOKES are fit to eat only when young and ten- der. Such as are intended for l’estouffade, or la barigoule, or plain boiled, must be full grown; the sprouts are used when to be fried à la Provençale, à l'Italienne, &c. You . ascertain that they are good, by the stalks breaking with- out being thready. No. 1.-Artichokes au Naturel. ACCORDING to the size of your dish, boil a certain quan- tity of artichokes in salt and water only, after having washed them in several waters; remove all the insects that swarm about the leaves, and trim them of all the bad leaves; ascertain whether they are done enough, either with 311 the point of a knife, or by tearing off one of the leaves. If the knife penetrates, or the leaf comes off with facility, then you may be certain that the artichoke is done. Shift it instantly into cold water, that you may take out all the inside; first take off the top all of a lump, then empty the choke, set the top on again, and send up as hot as possi- ble, with a sauce blanche, or French melted butter in a sauce-boat. No. 2.-Artichokes à l’Estouffade. These are prepared as in No. 1, but boil them only till you are enabled to empty them of all the choke. When emptied drain them well. Then have some olive oil boiling, in which fry the surface of the leaves. When they are of a fine brown colour, wipe off all the oil, and mark the artichokes in a stew-pan trimmed with layers of fat bacon, and a few slices of ham; powder each artichoke with a little salt, and add to them a few carrots, onions, and a clove. Next cover them with thin layers of lean bacon. One single spoonful of broth will be sufficient to moisten the whole. There must be but a very small fire under- neath, and a very brisk one on the top. The artichokes will be done in three-quarters of an hour's time, if they are young and tender; but as not unfrequently there are old ones among the number, it is better to ascertain with the point of a knife whether they are really done enough. Next drain all the grease, dish them, and send up with an Espagnole and the juice of a lemon in the inside of each of them. No. 3.--Artichokes à la Barigoule ARE prepared in every respect like those of No. 2. Only have some sweet herbs, such as mushrooms, shalots, and parsley chopped very fine, which you fry white in a little 313 and use a skewer to prevent their sticking together. When they are done and crisp, lay them on a towel to drain, and send them up with fried crisp green parsley. No. 6.- Artichokes à l'Italienne. These are also to be cut into quarters, and boiled in water enough to enable them to swim with ease, with a little salt and butter. When done, drain them well, and lay them all round the dish with the leaves outwards. Then take some Italienne, with which you mix a small bit of butter, and pour the sauce over the part that is to be eaten, but not over the leaves. No. 7.-Artichoke-bottoms. ARTICHOKE-BOTTOMS require to be turned very nicely, and the most tender leaves are to be left on, that the in- side of the artichokes may be kept more clean. Blanch them in salt and water. When they are so far done that you may pull off the leaves, and empty the choke without breaking the bottoms, take them out of the water, and throw them into cold water, that you may strip them en- tirely of the leaves, and remove the choke. Then make a blanc in the following manner: blan Blanc for Vegetables and Cardons in general. Cut about half a pound of fat bacon into large dice, as also a little beef suet; take half a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a little salt, and the half of a lemon cut in thin slices, and put the whole into a sufficient quantity of water to cover whatever you wish to put into your blanc. Let this blanc stew for half an hour before you throw in the artichoke-bottoms, which are also generally done in the 314 same space of time, yet the most certain method is to use the point of your knife to ascertain if they are done enough. Send them up with whatever sauce you may think proper. They likewise serve to garnish either fricas- sées of fowls, ragoûts, white or brown, &c. they are always to be boiled in this way, in whatever sauce you may serve them. No. 8.--Artichoke-bottoms en Canapés. THESE, when cold, are served for entremets. Pour on the centre of each artichoke-bottom some anchovy butter, or Montpelier butter, and decorate the whole with capers, pickled cucumbers, beet-root, &c. and when ready to serve up, pour over them a salad sauce, garnished with cresses between. FRENCH BEANS. No. 1.–French Beans à la Poulette. French beans must be young and tender. The fruit- erers and green-grocers sell them by the hundred, but they are fit to be eaten only when they are sold at market by the measure. They are to be boiled in salt and water, over a large fire, that they may retain their green colour. The poulette is made with a little sauce tournée, which you reduce, and next thicken with the yolks of two eggs, to which you add a little parsley chopped very fine. When the thickening is done enough, add to it a good lump of fresh butter, which you work well, a little pepper and salt, and the juice of half a lemon. Drain the beans well, so that no water remains; dish them, and send up with the sauce over them. 315 No. 2.- French Beans à la Lyonaise. These are to be prepared as above. Next cut some onions into slices; fry them of a fine brown colour, take two spoonfuls of Espagnole, and work it with a good lump of fresh butter. After having drained the onions and beans, pour them into the sauce, keep stirring, season them well with salt, and a little pepper; serve up hot over the beans. No. 3.-French Beans à la Française. AFTER having boiled the beans as in No. 1, drain and lay them on the fire in a stew-pan, to dry all the water. When entirely dry and quite hot, add to them a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a little pounded pepper and salt, and the juice of half a lemon; keep moving the stew-pan, without using a spoon, as that would break the beans. If the butter should not mix well, add half a spoonful of sauce tournée, and send up hot. No.4.-French Beans à la Provençale. These are to be boiled as above. Take two small pieces of garlic, which squeeze on the dresser with a wooden spoon, mixed with a little fresh butter. Let the beans be made quite dry, as in No.3, and then put in the garlic with a quarter of a pound of butter, and keep stirring the beans till the whole is well combined. Mix some herbs chopped fine with the above, such as parsley and shalots, or green onions, to which add a little good olive oil. Keep stirring, and if you do it properly the oil will form a pomatum. Lastly, season it well, with the addition of the juice of a lemon. Serve up hot and with great expedition, that no oil may drop. 317 : and before you serve up, refine the purée with a bit of very fresh butter, and two spoonfuls of thick cream. This entremet is to be garnished with fried crusts of bread all round. No. 4.—The same as above, brown, Is prepared in the same manner as that above, with this difference, that the onions are to be fried brown, and moistened with some Espagnole, or gravy of veal ; in case you should not have any, as soon as the onion is of a fine brown colour, throw in a spoonful of flour, and moisten with a little gravy of veal; let the flour be well done, and set the beans to boil in it for half an hour, that the taste of both may be well mixed; next strain the whole through a tammy, and give it a good seasoning. Remember that brown sauces are always to be more highly seasoned than others. ASPARAGUS. No. 1.-Asparagus with Sauce blanche, dites en Bâtonets. ASPARAGUS are always boiled in salt and water, whe- ther intended for entrées, or entremets. The water in which they are boiled is always impregnated with a nauseous bitter taste; for which reason asparagus is never used in soups or garnish, but at the very last moment before send- ing up the dinner. They must boil over a large fire, in order to preserve their green colour. Those served en bâtonets are cut according to the size of the dish. A toast of bread is generally put under the asparagus, to raise them on the dish, and to receive the water which may issue from them. Send up separately some melted butter in a boat. 318 No. 2.-Asparagus Peas. . If the asparagus are properly dressed, they must taste like green peas. Take some young asparagus, which pick with great care; then cut them into small equal pieces, avoiding to put in such parts as are hard or tough. Wash them in several waters, and throw them into boiling water with a little salt. When the asparagus are nearly done, drain them first through a sieve, and next wipe them quite dry with a towel. Then put them into a stew-pan with a small bit of butter, a bunch of parsley, and green onions, and sautez them over the fire for ten minutes. Now add a little flour, and a small lump of sugar, and moisten with boiling water. They must boil over a large fire. When well reduced, take out the parsley and green onions, and thicken with the yolks of two eggs beaten with a little cream, and a little salt. Remember that in this entremet sugar must predominate, and that there is to be no sauce. Asparagus are always dressed in this manner, when to be served as entremets; but for entrées, instead of their being sauté over the fire with butter, parsley, and green onions, drain them well after they have been boiling in salt and water, and throw them into some good sauce tournée well reduced. Give them a few boils over a large fire, then powder a little sugar, and make a thickening of one egg. The sauce must be made thick, on account of the aspara- gus always giving out a certain quantity of water that will thin the sauce. 319 CUCUMBERS.* No. 1.–Cucumbers farcis. Take four or six cucumbers, according to the size of your dish; cut them into the shape of a screw, which is done by leaning with your thumb on the blade of your knife whilst cutting the cucumber, at an equal distance. When you have thus turned the outside, empty the inside with a scooper. Take great care not to bruise the cucumbers, which, when prepared, you throw successively into some water. Now blanch them, and cool them in cold water; drain them; then take a little farce à quenelles, or some godiveau (See Farces), with which fill the cucumbers. Mark them in a stew-pan with layers of bacon, under and above, and a little salt and pepper; moisten with some good consommé, and let them stew, but not too long. Lay them on a towel to drain, and send them up with a fine Espagnole almost reduced to glaze. No. 2.-Cucumbers à la Poulette. Cut some cucumbers in the shape of half-crown pieces, marinade them for half an hour in a little salt and vinegar; next drain them in a towel, and lay them in a stew-pan with half a quarter of a pound of butter. Fry them white over a brisk fire, and then powder them over with a little flour. Next moisten with a little broth, and let them be reduced without breaking. When sufficiently reduced, add a little chopped parsley, a little sugar, and a thicken- ing of three eggs or more, according to the quantity of the * Cucumbers are a very cool plant, but of very great use in cookery; they are useful in first and second courses, and may be dressed in a great many different ways; they are of very easy digestion, and must be recom- mended as very healthy food. 320 cucumbers, together with a little salt; you may also put a little pepper if you like it. It would be useless to recom- mend the necessity of seasoning, as it is known to con- stitute the difference between good and bad cookery. Either salt or sugar must predominate in some respects. Mind to skim off all the butter before you reduce. No. 3.-Cucumbers cardon fashion. Cut cucumbers lengthways of the size of the dish; empty the seed, and slit the outside, that it may bear the appearance of a cardoon; blanch them in boiling water; next stew them in some consommé with two or three spoon- fuls of Espagnole. Let them boil over a large fire, and take care the sauce does not become skinny. If the cu- cumbers should give a bitter taste, put in a little sugar. This dish is a very wholesome one for weak stomachs. SEA-KALE. This plant is not known in France. It is to be boiled in salt and water, and after being well drained, sent up with either a sauce blanche, a velouté, or an Espagnole ; it has a great resemblance to asparagus, but is only used for second courses. BROCOLI. BROCOLI are no other than green cauliflowers. They are dressed in the same manner, and sent up with the same sauce. (See Cauliflowers, Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, pages 307, 308.) 321 ... POTATOES. No 1.-Potatoes à la Maître d'Hôtel. Wash the potatoes clean, and boil them with the skin in salt and water. (When they are done, let them cool, then turn them in the shape of big corks, and cut them into slices as thick as twopenny pieces, for if the slices were too thin, they would break in the sauce. (For the Maître d'Hôtel, see Sauces.) If you should have no sauce ready, make a butter sauce, and instead of water, moisten with milk, mix with it a little chopped parsley, pepper, salt, a little glaze, and the juice of a lemon, if acid is required. Mind that the sauce is neither curdled nor too thick. - No. 2.-Fried Potatoes. These are to be turned when raw, and cut of the same thickness as in No. 1; then fry them in clarified butter. If you should have any goose dripping, it would do better. When the potatoes are fried of a fine brown colour, and crisp, drain all the grease on a towel, and serve them quite hot on a napkin or in a deep dish, for this entremets cannot be dished nicely in any other way. Do not forget to sprinkle them over with a little pounded salt. No. 3.-Purée of Potatoes. Take some potatoes well boiled and well drained, pound. them in the mortar, moisten with good broth and salt, then rub them through a sieve ; when done, put the purée to warm in a stew-pan, and add a quartern of fresh butter to it; purée must be thinner than mash ; put fried bread round it. Sometimes you may use cream instead of broth; but it is not so healthy, and is much dearer. Y 322 No. 4.--Croquettes of Potatoes. After having boiled the potatoes in water, to take off the tartness, boil a pint of milk, in which infuse half the peel of a lemon, a lump of sugar, and a little salt. It is hardly possible to determine exactly what quantity of po- tatoes is requisite for a pint of milk; however, the mash must be made rather thick. Let it cool, and then roll it in the shape you like best, either corks, pears, or balls. Then crumb them as other croquettes ; with an omelette and a little salt; and then crumbs of bread, repeating both operations twice. Give them a pleasing form, fry them of a fine colour, and send them up, but without any fried parsley. In this dish sugar must predominate, as it is one of the class of sweet dishes. No. 5.--Casserole of Potatoes. - INSTEAD of a rice casserole, make a casserole of pota- toes. The potatoes must be well done; then mix some butter and cream well with a little salt, and make the whole into a thick mash. Dish it, and make an opening that you may empty the centre. After having given it a fine brown colour in the oven, empty the centre, wipe your dish clean, and pour in the ragoût, macaroni, or fricassée, &c. No. 6.—Soufflé of Potatoes. The soufflé requires the potatoes to be well done also. When they have boiled a sufficient time in water, strain them through a hair sieve, and put what comes through the sieve into a mixture of milk, sugar, lemon-peel, a good bit of butter, and a little salt, as in No. 4. Work the whole with the potatoes, and add the yolks of six eggs. At the moment you are going to send up the removes of the soups, beat the 326 No. 3.- Peas plain boiled. Set some water boiling. When it boils, throw in the peas with a little salt. When done enough, drain them, and empty them into a stew-pan, with a good lump of butter, and a little salt. Keep stirring till the butter is melted, and season with a little more salt, and pepper also, if approved of. Send up hot, but take care the butter does not turn to oil. No. 4.-Green Peas à la Paysanne. MARK the peas as in No. 1. Then take a few cabbage and cos lettuces, a good handful of parsley, and a few green onions. Wash them clean, and break them with your fingers instead of chopping them. Drain the lettuce, parsley, and onions, and sweat them with the peas over a very slow fire. You need not put any other moisture but the butter : take care to stir the stew-pan repeatedly, to prevent the vegetables from burning. When they are done enough, add a little pepper and salt, without any thickening, as for peas dressed in a different way. No. 5.- Of Peas in general. When very busy, it is requisite that you should have all the peas intended for entrées or for entremets, marked in a stew-pan. Sweat them all together, take a certain quan- tity for your first course, and reduce the remainder the moment you finish the entremets for the second. Peas, to be dressed French fashion, must be very young, and of an equal size, for if of different sizes they never will adhere well. Have a sieve made of ozier or of cane, through which they must be sifted ; such as cannot come through are used for soups, purées, &c. or to be plain boiled. 327 WINDSOR BEANS. No. 1.-Windsor Beans à la Poulette. Windsor beans are to be served at a good table, only when very young, and fresh gathered. Boil them in salt and water. When nearly done, drain them, and stew them in a little sauce tournée, with a bunch of parsley and green onions, a little savory chopped very fine, and a small lump of sugar. When the beans are sufficiently reduced, throw in a thickening made of the yolks of two eggs, and a little thick cream. Send them up in a short sauce, and properly seasoned. No. 2.-Windsor Beans à la Poulette. Another Method. When the beans are large, you must take off the coats, and boil them in salt and water; cook them as above, and send them up with a short sauce. . No. 3.-Beans and Bacon. WINDSOR beans are served as an entrée in the summer season. Take a piece of streaky bacon, and boil it for a couple of hours. When ready to send up, take off the rind, and dry the bacon with a red hot shovel. Powder the bacon over with raspings of bread. Give it a pleasing shape, and lay it over the beans that have been boiled in water and salt only, without any sauce. Send up sepa- rately in a boat, some chopped parsley in melted butter. TURNIPS. TURNIPs are of the greatest utility in cookery, as they are used for seasoning all the soups, for a great many entrées, and also for entremets, as follows: 328 No. 1.- Turnips with Sauce blanche. TURNIPS only find their way as entremets, in winter- time, from a want of other vegetables. Cut them in the shape of pears or balls ; boil them in salt and water, and butter, and when done enough drain them, and send them up with a sauce blanche, to which you may add a little mustard, if approved of. No. 2.--Turnips glazed, Pear fashion. SELECT a few fine turnips; turn a sufficient number to cover, or to fill the dish ; stew them in a little broth with a little sugar, which you reduce to glaze, and add to it a little glaze. When equally glazed, dish them; take a spoonful of Espagnole to detach the glaze that remains in the stew-pan, with a small bit of butter twice as big as a walnut, which you work with the sauce. Pour the sauce over the turnips without masking them, after you have given it a good seasoning. No.3.- The White Purée of Turnips. If you want to make a purée very white, you must mince the turnips, blanch them in boiling water, drain and sweat them over a very slow fire, in a little butter, to prevent their getting brown. When they are done enough, add two or three spoonfuls of béchamelle, strain them en purée through a tammy, reduce and send them up, surrounded with fried toasts of bread. No.4. The brown Purée of Turnips. INSTEAD of blanching the turnips, sweat them on a slow fire, in a little butter. Take care that they do not burn. When they are well done, moisten with three spoonfuls of sauce tournée, and one spoonful of gravy of veal. Give them a good seasoning, rub them through a tammy, and 329 send up as above with fried toasts of bread. Never omit putting in a small lump of sugar before you serve up, to overcome the bitter taste of the turnips. CARROTS. CARROTS are like turnips, to supply the scarcity of vege- tables at a particular time of the year, when vegetables are dear and scarce. No. 1.-Carrots à la d'Orleans. Take a few young carrots, turn them of an equal size, and cut them in slices of about the eighth of an inch thick, and blanch them well. Next lay them on a towel to drain; put them into a stew-pan with a lump of sugar and a little broth, and let them boil over a large fire. When reduced to glaze, add a good bit of fresh butter and a little salt. Mind that the butter must adhere to the carrots when you serve up, as no sauce must be seen. No. 2.-Purée of Carrots. Mince some young.carrots; blanch them to take off the tart taste, and use the same process as for the purée of turnips. No. 3.-Soufflé of Carrots. MAKE a thick purée of carrots, but instead of broth use water, in which put a great deal of sugar, half a spoonful of flour, a little salt, and a good bit of butter; let all this boil till very thick, then put the yolks of six eggs, and mix all well together. The moment you are ready to send up, beat the whites of the eggs, which you throw in with the rest, and put into the oven for a proper time. 330 CELERY. No.1.- Céleri à l'Espagnole. Cut a dozen of heads of celery of the length of your dish à entremets; blanch them; and mark them in a stew-. pan between two layers of bacon. Moisten with a spoon- ful of broth, and let them boil gently; when done, drain all the fat. Lastly, dish the celery, and send it up with an Espagnole, rather thick. No. 2.-Céleri with Sauce blanche. Cut a dozen heads of celery as above. Let them stew in a little butter, salt, and water. When done enough, drain them, and serve up with the sauce blanche. No.3.–For the purée of celery (See Sauces). In gene- ral, all purées are made by the same process. : 332 Put a little marmalade on the bottom of the dish, in order to stick down the apples, one above another all round the dish. Fill up the middle of the dish with the most defec- tive slices of the apples. Now lay another bed of apricot- marmalade, to prevent the apples from slipping down. Next lay a second bed of apples, and some marmalade again, so as to form a complete spiral line. You must close the centre with a slice of apple, which is to be slit. Next bake this in a moderately hot oven. When the apples yield to the pressure of the finger, it is a sign of their being done enough. Lastly, sprinkle over the apples a little pounded sugar, and glaze with the salamander. Remember that you must give the apples a fine colouring. No. 3.—Suédoise of Apples. Make a marmalade of apples as compact as possible. Then take small pieces of apples cut into corks, and of different colours. To dye them you need only dilute with syrup a little carmine or saffron; and give them a boil. Next let the apples cool in the syrup, that the colour may be spread equally over them. When you dish the suédoise, first spread some marmalade over the middle of the dish, and next arrange the apple-corks symmetrically, viz. one white, one red, one yellow, and so on. As the rows as- cend, make the next always narrower, and decorate the top with cherries of a pink hue, green-gages, &c. Have some apple jelly, with which cover the suédoise, and put it into ice to cool. When the suédoise is decorated in an agree- able form, use some jelly for garnishing, and place it gently over and round the suédoise. The jelly must be of a sufficient substance not to run down the fruit. 333 No. 4.-Chartreuse of Apples and Fruit. A Chartreuse is the same thing as a suédoise, only in- stead of raising the fruit with the hand over the marma- lade, you oil a mould of the same size as the dish you in- tend to use, and arrange symmetrically fruit of different colours, such as angelica, preserved oranges, lemons, &c. in short, whatever may offer a variety of colours. Apples and pears are in more general use for the outside, but then they must be dyed as directed above, No. 3. When you have decorated the middle or bottom, proceed to de- corate the sides. Next use some thick marmalade of ap- ples to consolidate the decorations. When you have made a wall sufficiently strong that you may turn the Chartreuse upside down, take the whitest apple jelly you can procure,, some stewed pears cut into slices the size of a half-crown piece, and some cherries, &c. and mix the whole with the jelly, so as to represent a Macedoine. Do not fill the ca- vity too full with the miroton, as you are to close it with apple-marmalade that has more substance in it. Then turn over the Chartreuse and dish it. Glaze the fruit over with some thick syrup. This syrup gives additional lustre to the colours, and a fresh gloss to the fruit. No. 5.—Turban of Apples. Take some real rennets or golden pippins, cut them into equal quarters, and stew them in some thin syrup. Mind they do not break. Boil some rice in cream, with a little lemon, sugar, and salt. Let the rice be done thoroughly, and kept thick. Then let it cool. When it is nearly cold, take a large piece of bread, or rather an empty gallipot, which you put in the centre of the dish, lay the rice all round till you reach the top of the gallipot. Next take the pieces of apples that have been drained of all the syrup 335 dozen of sweet almonds and the same number of bitter ones, which pound very fine, and moisten a little, that they may not turn to oil. When reduced to a kind of pomatum, mix them with the frangipane, and try whether it tastes well. This you may use for tourtes, tartelettes, gateaux en dariole, &c. &c. (See Pastry.) Observe that sugar must predominate in all sweet entremets ; but they must not be too sweet. OF RICE FOR ENTRÉES AND ENTREMETS. CAROLINA rice is generally the best. It must be ob- served, that rice which has been wetted by the sea, has lost its savour, and of course is unfit to be made use of for casseroles with rice. You must in the first place pick the rice, and wash it by rubbing it within your hands, in se- veral waters, till the water has not the least stain. Then smell it, for if it should smell of musk, which is often the case, it must be washed in hot water, and then in cold water again, till the bad smell is entirely gone. Next lay it in a sieve to drain for use when wanted. RICE FOR ENTRÉES. No. 1.—Casserole of Rice. After having picked the rice well, wash it first in luke- warm, and next in cold water, as directed above. After you have well drained it, throw it into a stew-pan of a proper size, that it may swell with ease: moisten with some pot- top* The broth must be previously drained through a silk sieve, in order that the rice may be kept very clean. Mix it with a large quantity of grease, and some pieces of fat * Pot-top, fat. 338 must entirely predominate in articles for a dessert, but in entremets it is to be used moderately. When the rice is done enough, and properly seasoned, break eight eggs, and mix the yolks with the rice; next beat the whites, which pour gently into the preparation; put also a good bit of butter; then clarify about a quarter of a pound of butter, and when it is completely clarified, pour it into the mould; turn the mould round, that the butter may be spread equally on all sides of the mould, which you then turn upside down for a moment: then put crumbs of bread into the mould, and contrive to have them likewise spread equally all over the mould; now dip a small piece of paper into the butter, sprinkle some butter all round the mould, and put some more crumbs of bread. This being done to your satisfaction, pour the rice into the mould, and put it into the oven, but mind it must not be too hot. An hour is required for your gateau to be baked enough. Turn it upside down in the dish, and serve up. N. B.—You may sometimes put with it preserved cher- ries, raisins, or currants, &c. No. 4.--Croquettes of Rice. The rice is to be prepared as in No. 3. When it has swelled in the cream, and is properly seasoned, let it cool; then roll it into croquettes in the shape of a cork. Next strew over them crumbs of bread (by which is meant that you dip them first into an omelette, and next into crumbs of bread). Roll them several times in the crumbs in what form you please, and mind that they are made of a fine colour. When you have fried them of a good colour, you may glaze them on one side with pounded sugar, by using the salamander. Send up with fried parsley, of a nice co- lour, in the centre. 340 round the apples. Next decorate with sweetmeats of dif- ferent colours, such as greengages, apricots, and cherries; and when you are ready to send up, remove the gallipot, and fill the vacancy with the vanilla cream. N. B.-Many entremets are made of rice crême,which, by the by, is no more than flour of rice, which is like any other flour, except that it swells more than others. You may make soufflés of it, and give them whatever taste you think proper. They must be always sweet. No.8.-Croquettes with Apricot Marmalade. PREPARE the rice as in No.3: form a croquette, take the handle of a wooden spoon, make a hole in the croquette, which fill with marmalade apricots. Then close it up with some rice, put crumbs of bread as you do in all other cro- quettes, and fry in the same manner. No.9.-Croquettes stuffed with Apples. Prepare the rice as above, and repeat every other ope- ration, except that you must have rennets cut into small corks, and well stewed in syrup. Drain them well, and put them into the croquettes instead of marmalade. No. 10.-Soufflé of Apples in a bordure of Rice. PREPARE your rice as in No.3. Keep it of a strong solid substance, dress it up all round a dish, the same height as a raised crust, that is to say, three inches high. Give a pleasing shape to the rice, and let it be levelled smooth; have some marmalade of apple ready made; mix with it six yolks of eggs and a small bit of butter; warm it on the stove in order to do the yolks; then have eight whites of eggs well whipped, as for biscuits, mix them lightly with the apples, and put the whole into the middle of the '341 rice; put this into the oven, which must not be too hot. When the soufflé is raised sufficiently, send it up, as it would soon lower. If you wish to make a kind of pap, take a spoonful of flour, a pint of milk, a little salt, lemon, and sugar; let the whole boil well, then mix it with the apples and the yolks of four eggs: the whites are to be poured in afterwards : next bake the soufflé in the oven. This method is safer than the former, and is not deficient in delicacy. No. 11.-Charlotte of Apples mixed with Apricots. The Charlotte has been so called after the name of the original inventor, yet there is no doubt but his successors have made great improvements on the original. To make a Charlotte, take a dozen of rennets; but if you use a very large mould, you must take more. Cut them into quarters, peel them, and put them into a pan with a lump of butter, a little cinnamon, the peel of half a lemon, and a little pounded sugar. Stew all these ingredients over a brisk fire, but without allowing them to burn. When the apples are nearly done, take them off the fire, mix with them half a pot of marmalade of apricots, and throw the whole into a mould trimmed with slices of bread dipped into melted butter: cover the marmalade with bread that has also been dipped into butter. Now bake the Charlotte in an oven that is pretty hot; give it a good colour, and serve up hot. It is useless to recommend that the top of the Char- lotte must be decorated; it must always be so. To garnish the Charlotte, put some clarified butter all round a plain mould, then cut the crumbs of bread in any shape you think proper; to keep all the apples confined in the mould, the neatest and prettiest way, is to cut the bread with a plain round cutter, and lay them over one another all round; they must be dipped into clarified butter before they are 342 put into the mould; then put the apples, and cover them; give a good colour, drain all the butter, and serve very hot and crisp. OF CREAMS IN GENERAL. No.1.-Coffee Cream. It is necessary to observe in this first article, that all creams are made in the same manner; the taste and colour only varying. Take a pint of cream and a pint of milk, and boil them together. When boiled, throw in a lump of sugar and a little salt: next roast the coffee in the ome- lette pan, or in a coffee roaster. When well and equally roasted, throw it burning hot into the cream, cover the stew-pan, and let it infuse till it gets quite cold. If you wish to pour the cream into cups or any other small ves- sels, you must measure the quantity of cream, but for a mould it is unnecessary ; put the yolk of an egg to every cup; rub the cream twice through a tammy, in order that the egg may be well mixed with it, and next put the cups into a pan containing water enough to reach to half the height of them ; cover them, and put a little fire pver the lid of the pan, to prevent any steam dropping into the cream. As soon as the cream is done, let it cool, and take care to secure the cups from dust, &c. When you make the cream in a large mould, put more eggs. No. 2.—Lemon Cream. The same preparation as above; but when the cream has boiled, instead of coffee, throw in the peel of a lemon, which you leave to infuse, with the addition of a little salt and sugar. If intended for a cream in moulds of a large 344 cate, let it get cold; then put it into a vessel over ice, before you put any isinglass into it, and whip it; when quite frozen, put in some cold melted isinglass : this method requires less isinglass, and the jelly is much lighter. No.5.-Cream au Thé. Boil a pint of cream and a pint of milk, into which throw a little salt and some sugar; the latter must however predominate. When the cream boils, throw two or three spoonfuls of good tea into it, give it a boil, put in ten yolks of very fresh eggs, and proceed as usual upon the fire, till the cream becomes thick; then put in the isinglass, &c. If your mould is small, six eggs are sufficient. No. 6.-Orange-Flower Cream. Instead of tea, infuse' a large pinch of orange flowers, and when the cream has got the flavour, put in the eggs,&c. No. 7.-Cream à la Genét, dite au Caramel. Melt about an ounce of sugar in a confectionary pan. Let it reduce till it is brown, but mind to keep continually stirring, to prevent the sugar from getting a bitter taste. When quite brown, dilute it with a little water, to which add a little sugar to qualify the bitter taste. Next use a little more water to melt this caramel. When melted, take a quart of cream that has boiled, throw the caramel into it, and put a sufficient quantity of sugar to make it palatable. If you wish to have the cream iced, pourin the yolks of eight eggs; but if you intend to have it with eggs only, you must use twelve. In the first case, when the eggs are well mixed, put the stew-pan on the fire to thicken the cream; and when it begins to thicken, stir it well, and throw in the isinglass that you have melted previously; then put it into the mould and ice it. You must let it cool first, or it will melt the 345 ice, and the mould will be liable to tilt over, and the cream fall out. It is not customary in this country to use cream without isinglass, therefore it is not particularly necessary to recommend the method of making them with eggs only; it is sufficient to say, that when you intend to put no isin- glass into the cream, you must put more eggs, and it must not be done till it is put into the mould; butter the mould with clarified butter, then put the cream into it, to be poached in boiling water, with fire on the lid, to prevent the steam from falling in. With respect to the multipli- city of names, they are derived from the peculiar flavour of the cream ; there is no difference in the manutation. Thus rose cream, vanilla cream, lemon cream, orange- flower cream, marasquin cream, pine apple-cream, &c. &c. derive their respective appellation from the flavouring ingredient. They are all made alike. No. 8.—The Manner of Melting Isinglass. To melt a quarter of a pound of isinglass, take a little more than a pint of water, into which throw the twelfth part of the white of an egg; beat the water well till it be- comes white; throw the isinglass into that water, and lay it on the stove over a very slow fire. If you keep it co- vered, it will melt more easily. Take care it does not burn, for then it can never be made clear, and, besides, it would have an unpleasant taste. For a larger quantity put more water, but not more white of egg. Some people put in the peel of a lemon, which is wrong; however, you may squeeze the juice of it into it if you want the isinglass to be clear, but for cream it is useless. Always put isinglass cautiously; in order to make cream or jellies in perfection, always try a little in a small mould. If the jelly should not be firm enough, put a little more isinglass. It is impossible to determine the exact quantity that is required for creams 346 or jellies, as the dishes and moulds are never of the same dimension. The best method therefore is to try by tast- ing. A surgeon once inquiring of me, why cooks had not weights and measures the same as apothecaries? I in- stantly replied : “ because we taste our recipes, and those gentlemen very seldom taste those they are mixing; there- fore they must have exact measures.” No.9.-Egg and Water Cream. Boil a pint of water with half a quarter of a pound of sugar, a little coriander, a little cinnamon, and the peel of a lemon. When all those ingredients have been well in- fused, break the yolks of eight eggs, which you mix and beat with that preparation; then rub it through a tammy, and put it into small cups to thicken au bain marie. Put but very little fire under, as there must be some on the covers, to prevent the water of the steam from falling into the cream. The cream must not boil too long, and only gently, for fear it should curdle. This cream agrees very well with weak stomachs. AKE SO No. 10.-Eggs au Bouillon, and reversed. Take some good consommé, of the particular sort you wish to use, whether of game or of fowl : do not put any sugar to it. Measure a cup full of it to every yolk, and make this cream thick, in the same manner as you do all others. If you wish to make it with reversed eggs, use two yolks of eggs for each dariole mould, and proceed as above; with the only difference, that you must butter the moulds lightly inside with some clarified butter. Boil the eggs in moulds instead of cups, and when they are hard enough, turn them upside down in the dish ; serve up with some consommé thickened with the yolks of two eggs, and poured over as sauce. 348 No. 13.-Pine-Apple Cream. INFUSE the rind of a pine-apple in boiling cream, and proceed as usual for other fruit. You must only use the rind, for the pulp of the pine-apple being acid, the cream would curdle. No. 14.-Cabinet Pudding, or Chancellor's Pudding. Bout a pint of cream, in which put to infuse a little lemon peel, and a little salt. Pour the cream while boiling over a pound of biscuits, à la cuilliere, and let them soak. Next add the yolks of eight eggs. Then beat the whites of six eggs only: some persons add a little brandy, but that I disapprove of. Butter over a mould, and decorate it with preserved cherries. When you send up the first course, pour the above preparation into a mould, and put it au bain marie. Observe, that if the mould is large, you must use more eggs. Make a sauce as for the eggs à la neige, into which squeeze the juice of a lemon; or make a sauce with arrow-root as follows: dilute a spoonful of arrow- root with white wine and sugar, and lay it on the fire to boil; keep it liquid enough to mask the mould, and let the dried cherries that are round be full in sight. .N.B.—This pudding can be made of remnants of Savoy biscuits, or brioche, or the crumb of a penny loaf. No. 15.-Soufflé, or Cake of Tapioca. Tapioca is an article that swells very much, and which requires a long time to be done thoroughly. If you boil it over too brisk a fire, it will become tough; if over a very slow fire, it will be as mellow as marrow, and then it is ex- tremely pleasant to the palate. Boil a pint of cream and a pint of milk with a little sugar, and very little salt. Then infuse the peel of half a lemon; but if the taste of orange 349 flowers, roses, or vanilla, &c. should be more agreeable, use them in preference, according to the taste of your em- ployer. Put a quarter of a pound of tapioca into the cream, and let it boil over a very slow fire. When it is done, throw in a piece of butter, and break the yolks of six eggs, which you beat up with it, and let them do over the stove. When you send up the first course, beat the whites of the eggs, pour them gently with the rest, and set the whole into a moderate oven. If you wish to make a cake, sprinkle a mould twice over with clarified butter and crumbs of bread: mix with the preparation some dried cherries and currants, and proceed as you would do for a soufflé. When done, turn the mould upside down in a dish, and send up hot. No. 16.-Tapioca gratiné. Put half a quarter of a pound of very clean tapioca, with a quart of hot milk, a small bit of sugar, a very little salt, and one leaf of almond laurel ; let this boil gently over a slow fire; when the tapioca is done, put it into a silver stew-pan, and set it on a pretty sharp stove fire to gratiné; let it stick very much to the bottom of the stew-pan; take out the laurel leaf, and serve it up with a cover over. No. 17.-Croquettes of Chesnuts. Take fifty good chesnuts, and put them into a hot oven, observing that you must cut each of them with the point of your knife, to prevent them from bursting. When well roasted, clean them, and put three parts of them (taking care to choose those parts that have colour) into the mortar, with three ounces of butter and a spoonful of cream; rub this paste through a hair sieve, then mix with it the same quantity of butter as before, a pinch of salt, three ounces of sugar, and a quarter of a pint of cream ; put the whole over the fire in a stew-pan to dry like royal paste, or a 353 PANCAKES, FRENCH FASHION. Put into a stew-pan or basin, two ounces of fine flour, three ounces of sugar, a few macaroons of bitter almonds, a tea-spoonful of orange-flower water, a little salt, a pint of cream, a glass of milk, and the yolks of five very fresh eggs. Mix the whole well; then clarify two ounces of butter, and with a hoop of clean paper put some into the pancake pan; put a very little of the mixture into the pan at a time; let it be well done on one side only, and turn the first one on the bottom of a silver plate; and do the same alternately with the others; arrange them in an agreeable form, and when you are about finishing, glaze the last with fine sugar, and salamander it; put the plate on a dish, and send up very hot. Pancakes. Put into a pan four spoonfuls of very fine flour, a pinch of salt, a spoonful of fine sugar, the peel of a lemon chopped very fine, and an egg; dilute the whole of this with a pint of cream, melt a small bit of fresh butter in a stew-pan, throw it into the preparation, and then have a pancake pan very clean, put a very small bit of butter into it, let it get hot, put a spoonful of the mixture into the pan, turn round the pan, that the pancake may be done equally, then give a sudden jerk to turn the pancake on the other side ; let it be well done on both sides; lastly, roll and glaze them with fine sugar. They must be made quickly, as there must be many to make a dish. JELLIES OF FRUIT. It is to be observed, that all jellies made of what i scalled red fruit, must be worked cold, and be put on ice very A A 354 promptly. If you were to use a tinned mould, the tin would alter the red into a dead blue colour, and also spoil the taste; but if you use earthen moulds, the jellies will always look and taste as they ought. It is also advisable to clarify the isinglass while it is melting: there is less waste, and the jellies have a brighter appearance. (See the manner of melting Isinglass, page 345). No. 1.—Strawberry Jelly. Put some strawberries into an earthen pan, squeeze them well with a new wooden spoon; mix some pounded sugar with the fruit, and let them infuse for an hour, that the sugar may draw out all the juice; next pour in a little water. If the strawberries are very ripe, squeeze the juice of two lemons to restore the acid taste of the strawberries, for such preparations as are too sweet are insipid. Put all this into a bag that is nearly new, that the juice may be strained clear and limpid; mix some melted isinglass with the juice, but mind that the whole must be very cold. Now put half a spoonful of the jelly into a mould over ice, to ascertain of what substance it is. If thick enough, put the whole into the large mould in ice, and cover it also with ice, but no salt, for it would spoil the bright colour of the jelly. Some people clarify the sugar, and when it is quite limpid and very hot, they throw their strawberries into it. This method is good enough, but then the jelly does not keep the taste of the fruit so well. You may try either way. When the strawberries have been infused in the sugar, and they have discharged their colour, strain them through a bag, mix the isinglass, and lay them in ice. Co- ver the mould with ice also. 356 the oranges into the sieve over an earthen pan. This being done, pour the infusion of the peel through the sieve; next take a pound of sugar or so, in proportion to the acidity of the oranges, break it in a confectionary pan, pour a drop of the white of an egg into about a pint of water, whip it till it gets white, pour it over the sugar, and set it on the fire. When the sugar becomes frothy or scummy, throw a little more water in. Skim the sugar, let it reduce till it begins to bubble; and then pour in the juice of the oranges. The heat of the sugar will clarify the jelly. Do not let it boil, but as soon as you perceive a yellow scum, skim it, and pour the jelly into a bag. Next mix some melted isinglass, either hot or cold. This jelly must not be made too firm, and especially avoid introducing any colour into it, as it is almost always yellow; why should you wish to make it red? Some people add brandy to it, which is wrong, the natural flavour ought never to be adulterated. If the oranges should be too ripe, mix a little lemon-juice to make them acid. No. 7.—Lemon Jelly. Lemon jelly is made exactly in the same manner as that of oranges. However, it requires a little more atten- tion, for you must smell all the lemons you use, for fear they should be musty ; besides, the lemons being more acid, require a larger quantity of sugar. In every other respect the process is the same as above. No.8.-Mosaic Jelly. Boil half a pint of cream; when it boils, infuse the peel either of an orange or of a lemon, according as you wish to decorate the jelly with either. When the cream has im- bibed the flavour of the fruit, put in a little sugar. Break the yolks of four eggs which you beat with the cream, lay it on the fire to thicken, and then put in some isinglass that has 357 previously been melted. Strain the whole through a hair sieve, and put it well covered on some ice, in order that it may get quite firm. Now take the mould which you intend to use, brush it lightly with oil all over, and then cut the white cream jelly with a knife in the first place, and next with small tin cutters. Decorate the mould without putting it on ice, for the damp would prevent the decoration from sticking on. Decorate the bottom first, next the sides ; then only put the mould over ice. Now pour a little orange- jelly lightly, not to injure the decoration, and let it get thick. When the orange-jelly is frozen, thrust the mould deeper into the ice; then put a little more jelly to the height of the lower decoration on the sides; let the preparation be made firm again; mind the jelly is never to come higher than the flowerets, till the bottom has been first made firm; then gradually ascend to the top. Cover and surround the mould with ice. When you wish to serve up, dip a towel into some hot water, and rub the mould all round. Ascer- tain that none of the jelly sticks to the sides before you meddle with the bottom of the mould. Then rub the bot- tom with the hot towel, and turn the jelly neatly into a dish. Were it not for all these precautions, the two co- lours would melt and mix with one another. This jelly looks beautiful when well made. N.B.—It is to be observed, that this jelly can only be made in winter-time; for, during the summer season, it would melt, except made hard, then it would not be good; however, you may work it in a very cold place. I shall not describe the great variety of jellies that can be decorated in this manner; it will be sufficient for learn- ers to know, that when they are to decorate pine-apple jelly, they must give the same taste to the white jelly which is to be used for the decoration; the same must be done also for noyau and marasquino. When you make white 358 vanilla cream, use chocolate to decorate with, by making the first preparation as directed for Mosaic jelly; for lemon jelly, use lemon, and so on with any other sort of jelly. No. 9.-Pine- Apple Jelly. The pine-apple, although a very odoriferous fruit, is not very juicy. Clarify some sugar, (See No. 6,) take the rind of a pine-apple, and turn the best part equally. Let it be of the diameter of a crown-piece, but a little thicker. Boil it in the sugar, squeeze into the syrup the juice of a lemon or two, and put to it some isinglass ready clarified. Strain the whole through a bag; next put in the mould a little of the pine-apple jelly, and when there are about three-eighths of an inch deep at the bottom of the mould, put the mould on ice to freeze. When firm, lay slices of pine-apple sym- metrically over the jelly. Mind that they are quite dry, and use a little jelly to make them stick together. When the jelly is frozen to a substance, put in a little more to freeze again, then fill the mould, and put some ice all round. If the pine-apple does not look well enough to be served in the jelly, send up the jelly by itself, but keep the slices of the fruit in sugar, as they will serve another day to make pine-apple fritters. This jelly appears very well with a Mosaic on the surface of the mould. No. 10.—Cherry Jelly. The best method of making this jelly consists in clari- fying the sugar. (See No. 6.) When you have skimmed the sugar properly, and it boils, throw the cherries into it : take them off the fire, and when the decoction is cold, throw in a little liquid clarified cold isinglass, squeeze three or four lemons into it, strain through a bag, and try the preparation. Next fill the earthen mould, and put it in ice. I have already observed, that tin moulds would make these jellies turn of a dead blue colour. 359 No. 11.-Jelly arid Miroton of Peaches à la Ude. Cut a dozen of peaches into halves, peel them gently, and boil them in a thin syrup, but do not boil them too long. If they are very fine, you may use them almost raw, but if common fruit, the syrup will improve the look of them. Break the stones, peel the kernels, and throw them into the hot syrup with the fruit. When the peaches have infused about an hour, you may use them for making jelly en mi- roton, which is done as follows: drain the peaches in a new sieve, take the syrup, and squeeze six lemons into it; put this through a jelly bag; when very clear, put some clarified isinglass into it, and put some into a plain mould in ice. When it is firm, dress the peaches over the jelly, and put the kernels between, then stick all this together with some jelly; when stiff, put some more jelly gently, let it freeze, and then fill the mould; put a great quantity of ice round the mould, and some salt, as this jelly is very liable to break; but it is one of the most delicate that can possibly be made. No. 12.-Calf 's Foot Jelly. NOTWITHSTANDING calf's foot jelly is seldom made alone, yet it is incumbent on me to explain how it ought to be made. Bone the calf's feet first, put them into warm water to disgorge all the blood, then boil them in clear water, and skim till the water is quite limpid. Then put the stew-pan on a small stove, and let it boil gently till the calf's feet are well done. Drain the liquor through a double silk sieve; skim the fat off with the most scrupulous attention, then throw a large piece of sugar into the liquor. Six feet make a large dish. Throw likewise into the jelly the peel of four lemons, and also the juice; add to this a stick of cinnamon, a few cloves, a little allspice, and break four eggs whole, but very fresh, into the mixture. Smell the eggs, one after another, for if one of them should not 360 be fresh and sweet, it would spoil the whole jelly. Whip the jelly, but take care the rod is not greasy. Lay the jelly on the fire, and keep beating it till it begins to turn white, and to bubble round the stew-pan. Then remove the stew- pan from the fire, cover it, and lay some fire on the cover. This fire is intended to preserve the strength of the jelly, which otherwise (the steam dropping from the lid) would become weak. When the jelly has simmered for an hour on a very slow fire, strain it through a bag. It must be strained several times over to make it quite bright; then put it into the mould, and lay it on ice till it is frozen; send it up like all other jellies. It must be very clear and transparent. No. 13.—Madeira Wine Jelly. This jelly is made exactly in the same manner as the preceding one. When the jelly is nearly clarified, pour into the same stew-pan a bottle or two of Madeira. As the operation of clarifying takes away the strength of the wine, you must add half a bottle of brandy to it. You must ob- serve that this jelly will keep for several days, and that accordingly what you have left, and what is sent down from table, will be sufficient to supply you with another entremet on another day. This is a common jelly, which cooks and traiteurs frequently serve ; therefore, in order to avoid monotony, you must ornament it with another jelly, which you make as follows: Take four spoonfuls of the wine jelly, break the yolks of four eggs into a stew-pan, beat the eggs with the jelly, and lay it on the fire to thicken; then strain it through a sieve, lay it on ice, and use it for the same purpose, to de- corate, as at No.8. N. B.-It will sometimes happen that the jellies made of calf's feet, will break, when you turn them upside down into a dish. To prevent this accident, throw in a pinch of 362 No. 2.-Fromage of Strawberries. I TAKE a pottle of strawberries, make a purée of them, put a sufficient quantity of sugar to sweeten it well, and add a little clarified isinglass. Next mix the whole with a pint of whipped cream, and proceed as directed above. No. 3.- Fromage of Raspberries. The same process as above. Make a purée of the rasp- berries, and whip the cream, &c. as above. No. 4.- Fromage with Orange Flowers. In this case you must make an infusion. Boil half a pint of cream, into which throw a handful of orange flowers, and let the cream cool. When it is cold, and has acquired the taste of the flowers, strain it through a sieve, and mix it with another pint of thick cream; keep whipping it over ice till the mixture is made thick. Next take some melted isinglass, and mix it well with some pounded sugar: put the whole with the cream, keep stirring it over the ice till it acquires a good substance, then fill the mould, and surround it with ice. N. B.- Fromages require but very little isinglass. They must be very delicate indeed, but above all, extremely cold. No. 5.-Fromage à la Vanille. Here again you must make a decoction. Boil half a pint of cream, and infuse two sticks of vanilla, cut into halves; add a little salt and sugar. For the rest proceed as above, No. 4. N. B.—Vanilla that has served once, may serve a second time, if you pound the sticks before they are infused. 363 No.6.- Fromage au Marasquin. Whip a pint and a half of rich cream. When it is quite thick, pour into it two or three glasses of marasquino, the juice of a lemon, and a little melted isinglass. Next put the whole into a mould, and keep stirring it over ice till the isinglass is well mixed, and begins to freeze. Then proceed as above. No. 7.-Fromage au Chocolat. PROCEED as above. Melt a quarter of a pound of cho- colate that you have previously rasped or pounded : add a little water to it; when melted, mix with it a little isin- glass and a little sugar; then mix that with whipped cream, fill the mould, and surround it with ice. Do not neglect to whip it over ice, till you find the mixture be- gins to freeze, then put it into the mould, and surround it with ice. No.8.--Fromage au Café. SEE Creams, for the mode of infusing coffee ; only use one half of the cream for the infusion, which, when cold, mix with the other half. Beat the whole on ice, add isin- glass, and then fill the mould, &c. &c. Observation. The fromages Bavarois, made of fruit, deserve the preference over those made with infusions. But in the winter season, for a grand dinner or supper, when a great variety is required, infusions may be recur- red to; but in that case, use preserved fruit and sweetmeats of all kinds. No. 9.-Marbled Jellies. This method of making a jelly will answer the purpose of economy; as for instance, if you have a little orange jelly left, and should have served up on the preceding day ecur- 364 a cream à la vénitienne, keep this latter in a very cool place; cut it into unequal pieces, the same as the orange jelly : put the whole into a mould, and shake them toge- ther a little. When the pieces are well mixed, pour a little melted orange jelly into the mould ; observe that it must be quite cold, or else the composition will become livid; if you pay proper attention, this jelly will be as good, as it is pleasing to the eye. No. 10.-Marbled Cream au Café. When you have prepared the cream as directed above, have a little very brown caramel ready; take about half the cream, and add to it a little caramel, that it may be of a darker colour than the other half, but it must be of the same substance with respect to isinglass; then take a mould rubbed lightly over inside with oil, which you lean sideways, and put a little white cream into it; when that has acquired a good substance, throw in some of the brown cream, and so on alternately till the mould is quite full. Then cover the mould all over with ice. When you are ready to serve up, rub it with a towel dipped into hot water, the same as you do the Mosaique. (See Jellies, No. 8.) No. 11.—Marbled Cream, White Vanilla and Chocolate. MAKE both creams separately, as directed above. Try whether they are of the same substance, for if one should be thicker than the other, they would separate in the dish. Rub the mould lightly over with oil, give it a sloping di- rection, and pour a little vanilla cream into it; when that is frozen, turn the mould a little, and put in a little choco- late cream ; let that freeze, and go on so alternately, till the mould is entirely full. Next cover the mould with ice. Use the same process for liberating the cream from the mould, as above. 366 No.1.-Pâte Brisée. It is impossible to point out the exact quantity of paste requisite for a pie, as that depends entirely on the size of it. Take two pounds of well sifted and dried flour, spread it on a dresser, make a large hole in the cen- tre, into which put a pinch of salt, three eggs, yolks and white together, a glass of water, and three-quarters of a pound of fresh butter. Work the butter with the flour till it begins to look like crumbs of bread, then mix the whole together, till it becomes quite malleable; if the paste is too firm, add a little water. Now work it well with your hands, and make it as firm as possible, for if it is not very firm, you will never be able to erect the circumference or flank works of a pie. I have found out a method both easy and expeditious, of erecting these walls (for I will venture to call them so), in such a manner as that they never tumble or shrink, as is too often the case under the management of many unskilful pastry-cooks. Take a lump of paste, proportionate to the size of the pie you are to make; mould it in the shape of a sugar- loaf, put it upright on the table, then with the palm of your hand flatten the sides of it; always keep the middle high and upright; when you have equalized it all round, and it is quite smooth, squeeze the middle of the point at about half the height of it, and give it the shape of a hat; thus it is kept quite even, and this is executed with so much celerity, that you can make a dozen of them in an hour's time. Now, if you wish to make a cold pie, trim the middle of the paste and all round, with layers of ba- con cut of an equal size: lay those layers double all over except on the border, that you may leave room to stick the cover or upper crust on. First put in some farce (See Farce for Pies); next having boned the game or poultry, sea- son the middle well with salt, pepper, and allspice, and lard 367 the most fleshy parts with slices of bacon highly seasoned, for it is to be observed that pies taste very insipid unless they are highly seasoned. Now open the bird by the back, spread it on the table, and put some of the farce over the inside: put plenty of salt, and close the bird, &c. to re- store it to its former shape; lay it over the farce. If you dress more than one, mind that they are all equally filled with the farce. Should you wish to put in truffles, mince some with the farce, and strew the pie equally with whole ones that have been well peeled, yet always as much to- wards the top as possible, that they may be seen at the opening of the pie. As wealthy individuals never eat any but the upper part of a pie, I am induced to recommend the timballe in preference. · When the pie is quite full, cover it with bacon, the same as you do to trim the sides. Fill all the cavities with butter. Next spread with the roller, a lump of paste of a size some- what larger than your pie. Use the brush all round. Mind that the top is quite level. Stick the top or cover well over the border, make a hole, like a chimney funnel, in the middle of this top or cover, and stick a piece of paste round it, made in the shape of a stick of sealing-wax. Now cut some blades or leaves of paste, which are to be made as I shall direct hereafter. Place them close to each other round the aperture, without stopping it, and use a little water to make them stick. When you have done with the summit, pinch the bottom part, and the circumference of the upper part ; decorate the sides or flanks to the best of your abilities. This, however, being only a matter of theory, it is impossible to enter into an explanation that would require volumes. N. B.—The feuilles (blades, leaves,) are made in the fol- lowing shape o . You must fold down the point marked ||, but not lay the leaves too flat. Glaze the whole 368 with an egg well beaten, and next bake the pie in an oven that is not very hot. Four hours are required to bake it : mind to watch its baking, and if it should acquire too brown a colour, cover it with paper. No. 2.—Cold Pie en Timballe. Tuis sort of pie is preferable in taste as well as in ap- pearance. The paste is made as under: choose a stew-pan that will let the pie out easily when baked. I mean a stew- pan that is not narrower at the opening than at the bottom; butter it well all round, and spread enough paste over the dresser with the rolling-pin to fill the inside of it, then take a smaller stew-pan, one that can go easily into the other, flour it to prevent the paste from sticking to it, and put the paste over the bottom of it. Keep it turned upside down, then put the large stew-pan over the paste, and turn them both over together. Now take out the small pan, and with your fingers stick the paste equally all round the large one, observing that you must leave no air between the paste and the pan. Keep the paste of an equal thickness. Next trim your paste with slices of fat bacon, and then put in whatever you mean to make your pie of; whether poultry or game. Put the breast downwards close to the bacon, then squeeze some farce into all the cavities to fill them up. Next put some veal all over the bird or fowl, seasoning it very highly with salt, pepper, spices, Cayenne, &c. &c. Then put a few slices of ham, and fill up the pie, though not quite to the top, with farce; cover the whole with slices of bacon ; put here and there a small bit of butter, and then turn down the upper part of the paste all round the stew-pan, laying it equally flat. Roll a bit of paste, the same circumference as the stew-pan, about the thick- ness of a finger, rub the paste over with a brush dipped in 375 flour, and place it on the ground to keep it cool, and leave it there for a little while. A moment after put the paste on the dresser, and proceed twice more as before; then let it rest again, and give it two turnings more, which will make six in all. Now give it a long shape, and fold it in two. You may then use it to make a vol au vent. When at the latter end you fold the paste double only, and that is what is called half a turning, of course you are aware that the paste must have had six turnings and a half before you can make a vol au vent, and that you must keep the paste thicker than for other small articles of pastry. Cut the vol au vent of the size of the dish in which it is to be sent up, and immediately after put it into a plafond: brush it over with yolks of eggs, open it all round with the point of a knife, and put it into a very hot oven. Mind that puff- paste always requires the oven to be very hot. If you are not careful to keep the oven shut, the vol au vent will not rise properly. When it is well baked, and of a fine colour, and you are certain that it is done through, take it out of the oven, remove the middle, which served as a cover, empty, and throw away the paste of the middle which is not baked, and lay the vol au vent cleanly on some paper to extract the butter. When you are ready to serve up, dish the vol au vent, and fill it with whatever you think proper. With regard to small articles of pastry, spread more puff-paste, and cut it with cutters into different shapes.; if intended for entrées, brush the paste over with the yolk of eggs, but do not glaze it with sugar. By glazing, is here meant, the sifting of fine pounded sugar over the pastry when baked and emptied, and using over it a red- hot salamander, or else putting it into a very hot oven for the sugar to melt and glaze. 378 No. 6.—Ramequins à la Sefton. AFTER you have made the pastry for the first and se- cond course, take the remains of the puff-paste, handle it lightly, spread it out on the dresser, and sprinkle over it some rasped Parmesan cheese; then fold the paste in three, spread it again, and sprinkle more cheese over it : give what we call two turns and a half, and sprinkle it each time with the cheese: cut about eighteen ramequins with a plain round cutter, and put them into the oven when you send up the second course; doré them the same as the petits patés, and serve very hot on a napkin. NO No.7.-Common Ramequins. Put into a small stew-pan a large glass of water, a quar- ter of a pound of fresh butter, and a little salt; let this boil; when the butter is melted, put to it two or three spoonfuls of fine dry sifted flour ; stir with a wooden spoon till the paste does not stick to the stew-pan, then take it off the fire: break some eggs one after the other, and smell them, to see if they are sweet; mix them with the paste, and continue adding till you see the paste has acquired a good consistence; then put in a spoonful of rasped Parmesan cheese, and a quarter of a pound of Swiss cheese cut in small dice; mix the whole gently, to avoid breaking the cheese, and dress the ramequins as you do the petits chour; doré as usual, and bake them in a moderate oven, but do not open the oven till they are nearly done, for that will make them fall, and they never rise after. No. 8.—Cheesecakes. Put some curd from the dairy, into the mortar, with a bit of very fresh butter, a little salt, a whole egg, and two 379 yolks ; rasp the peel of a lemon over some sugar, and put this also into the mortar; add four macaroons, and a bit of sugar; pound the whole together, and when very fine, take it out of the mortar; butter any quantity of tartlet moulds according to your company, spread some puff- paste over the dresser, cut with a round cutter as many pieces as you have moulds, and put a spoonful of the pre- paration to each; bake next in a pretty hot oven, and serve up very hot with powdered sugar. Sometimes you may glaze them with the salamander. No.9.- French Cheesecakes. Take some of the petit choux paste made with water; mix with it some fromage à la cream that has been curdled cold, and then proceed for the rest as above. PASTRY FOR ENTREMETS. No. 1. -- Gateaux à la Polonoise. SPREAD about half a pound of puff-paste, to the size of half a sheet of foolscap paper, throw some flour lightly over the dresser, to prevent its sticking to it, and cut di- rectly, the paste into squares of two inches and a half : dip the paste brush into the dorure*; and touch the four corners of the paste and the middle ; turn each corner up to the middle, press them together with one finger, and brush them lightly over again with the dorure ; put them into a very hot oven. You may have twenty-four for an entremet; but they must be small. When they are done, sift some pounded sugar over them, and glaze them very bright. While they are hot, make a little hole in the middle of the paste, and garnish with apricot or any other marmalade. * Dorure, is an egg beaten up, yolk and white together. 381 No.5.-Feuillantines Pralinées. SPREAD and cut some puff-paste as above, and brush it over with white of egg; chop some Jordan almonds very fine, mix them with some sugar, and spread them over the paste; bake them in an oven not too hot, and serve them without sweetmeats. No. 6.-Gateaux à la Manon. SPREAD some very thin puff-paste on a buttered baking sheet; pour over it equally some apricot marmalade, put some dorure all round the edge, and lay over the sweetmeat another very thin paste, which you have rolled lightly round the rolling-pin; then put some dorure all over equally, mark with a knife on the surface some lines crossing each other, to cut it when done into long squares thus >>>>>> the marks on the square are made with a knife as orna- ment, and to prevent bladders of air. Glaze as above, and separate the squares when cold. No. 7.-Croques en bouche. When you have some remnants of paste, handle them together, and spread it out with the rolling-pin very thin; roll the paste over the rolling-pin, and lay it on a buttered baking sheet; rub this over with white of egg. Spread some coarse sugar equally over it, mark it strongly through with some plain paste cutter, and bake it in a moderate oven. When done, take the shaped part to make the dish. You may cut them sometimes in plain rounds, and at other times hollow out the centre of the circle, making of it a strong ring called lorgnettes. 382 No. 8.— Feuillantines garnished. Cut some puff-paste into pieces of the length of a finger, and about a third of an inch thick. 'Butter a baking dish, and lay the pastes on it sideways, at a distance from each other; put them into the oven without dorure. Observe, that when the sides of the paste have spread, and have ac- quired consistence, you must glaze with fine sugar, and take them out when done. Then drain them of the but- ter, by putting them on a sheet of paper, and garnish lightly with sweetmeat. No.9.--Petits Paniers, garnished with Jam. SPREAD some puff-paste on the dresser, about two- eighths of an inch thick, then cut with a cutter of this shape put them into a baking dish, and give them a good colour with the dorure; bake them in a very hot oven, and glaze with sugar; garnish the round part with cher- ries, and mark the lines on the side of the basket with currant-jelly cut in fillets. Eighteen for a dish. No. 10.-Petites Nattes, decorated. SPREAD some puff-paste about an eighth of an inch thick, cut out of it three ribbons, of the same length. Lay one on the dresser, and with your finger put a little dorure on the end of another, and stick it to the head of the first; then put the third in the middle by the same process, and plat them, beginning by the two outside ribbons; when platted, put again a little dorure to stick them together; doré them lightly, and bake them in a hot oven. Glaze with fine sugar, and when done, garnish between the twists with currant-jelly cut into fillets. 383 No. 11.--- Little Cockades garnished. SPREAD some puff-paste on the dresser, about a quarter of an inch thick, cut it with a large fluted round cutter, about the same as for patties; cut a hole in the middle with a small plain round cutter, then as quickly as possible with your finger turn the paste, so as to put the inside on the baking dish, and the outside above; put them at a great distance from each other on the baking dish, as the pastes spread sideways instead of rising; bake in a hot oven, and glaze of a good colour. When done, they represent exactly a cockade. Garnish with fillets of sweetmeat to form the plats of the cockade. No. 12.-Apricot Cakes trellised. SPREAD some puff-paste over the dresser; trimmings will do for these cakes; spread it equally on a large but- tered baking sheet, by using the rolling-pin as above. Spread some apricot marmalade over the paste equally, then cut some more paste long and narrow, roll it about the size of strong cord, and arrange it crossways like a trellis over the marmalade; put dorure over the bars lightly, and lastly, bake in a moderately hot oven. When done, cut it into small oblong squares, and dress them on the dish one above the other. · As there is an immense variety of paste cutters, select your own forms; the paste is always the same. Decorate sometimes with almonds cut into different shapes, and sometimes with almonds coloured with green of spinach. It would be too tedious and minute to attempt even de- scribing the various forms. The ingenuity of the practi- tioner will supply the ornaments, which must always be made of sweetmeat. 385 bring it back again towards the edge, and fraisez it a second time ; again bring it near the edge of the table, and pour the yeast paste all over it: next, divide the whole into small pieces, which you shift from one place to another : this operation is to mix the yeast with the paste properly. Now fraisez the paste well again twice, and gather the whole up together. Take a large sieve or an earthen pan, in which spread a towel, powder a little flour over the towel, put the paste on it, and cover it with the towel. In summer time remove the paste to a cool place, and in winter time to a warm one. Observe, that the paste is better when made on the preceding day, and take care to break the paste several times before you use it: then cut it into equal pieces, and shape them with the palms of your hands; lay these on the less even size ; shape off small balls, which you turn also with your palms, brush them over with a beaten egg, then make a little hollow, put the small ball into it, brush twice over with the egg, and bake in a hot oven. If you wish to make a large brioche, you must make a very large round well-buttered paper case; and then mould your paste accordingly. Make a head the same as for the small one, and bake in a hot oven, but not so hot as is used for the small ones, for the larger the articles of pastries are, the less must be the heat of the oven. The borders of the brioche, or pies, &c. would burn before the middle part could hardly be heated. When you perceive that the brioche has colour enough, if it should not be thoroughly baked, cover it with paper without losing sight of the colour. This same paste may serve to make all sorts of little entremets, such as Les petites nattes en gateaux de Nanterre; Les petits pains sucrés. The only difference is, that you must put some coarse sugar over these, and sometimes currants inside. If you make them of different shapes, you give them dif- сс 387 NOUGAT. For an entremet, cut three quarters of a pound of sweet almonds, and mix with them six or eight bitter almonds. Before you cut the almonds into dice they must be blanched, in order that the peel may come off. When they are cut equally, dry them in the oven, but keep them white: take three spoonfuls of superfine pounded sugar, put it over a slow fire in a preserving pan; when the sugar is melted without having used any water, throw the al- monds in, but take care that they are quite dry. If you hear a noise when you throw them into the sugar, it is a sign that they are dry enough. Rub a mould slightly over with oil or butter, and lay some almonds in beds as thinly as possible; take an oiled lemon to press the almonds with; but be quick, otherwise the almonds will get cool, and then they cannot be worked so thin. The nougat requires to be light, to be made to perfection. Sometimes you may make the nougat in a mould of the form of a vase, sometimes in small dariole moulds, according to your choice; it is always the same thing, bụt you may cut the almonds of different shapes. Sometimes make a pound of almonds into nougat, oil a baking dish, and spread the nougat over it, oil the rolling pin, and flatten the nougat with it; then cut it in small long squares, and keep it in a very dry place, to prevent the nougat from sticking to the fingers. SWEET ENTREMETS AND HOT PASTRY. Dry Meringues. It is to be observed, that meringues, to be well made, require the eggs to be fresh, and that you are not to break them till the very moment you are going to use them. Have 2 c 2 390 ROYAL PASTE, DITÉ AU CHOUX. This paste is the basis of many sorts of pastry; it is used to make an infinite number of entremets of various forms, and of different denominations. I shall first explain the manner of making it; next I shall enumerate briefly its various appellations. Take a stew-pan large enough to contain four pints of water; pour half a pint of water into it with a quarter of a pound or a little more of fresh butter, two ounces of sùgar, a little salt, and the peel of a lemon : let the whole boil till the butter is entirely melted, Then take some very fine dry flour, and shake it through a sieve. Take the lemon-peel out with a ladle, and throw a handful of flour into the pre- paration while boiling; pay attention, however, not to put more flour than the liquor can soak up. Stir with a wooden spoon till the paste can easily be detached from the stew: pan, and then take it off the fire. Next break an egg into this paste, and mix it well; then break a second, which also mix; do not put more eggs than the paste can absorb, but you must be careful not to make this preparation too liquid. It is almost certain, that about five or six eggs will be wanted for the above quantity; then form them en thoux, by which is meant, in the shape of a ball an inch in circumference. As this paste swells very much, you must dress it accordingly. Abroad, we use the technical word coucher, and we say coucher les choux, les biscuits, &c. but in a foreign country we must as much as possible adopt the expressions there in common use; I therefore say, dress, which is to put the chour on a baking sheet, at an inch distance from each other, in order that they may un- dergo a greater effect in the oven. Brush them over as usual with the dorure, to which has been added a little milk. Put them into an oven moderately hot, but do not 393 Pains à la Duchesse. The same paste again, with this difference, that you must first make on the paste-board some round balls, and then roll them lightly as long as your finger; next lay them on the baking sheet, dorez them with milk only, and bake them either glazed or not, as you think proper : when done, open them at the bottom, and fill them with sweetmeats. The number of forms that can be made with this paste is very considerable; but it is impracticable for the learner to undertake so many at once. If you make properly the articles you find here, your own understand- ing will soon lead you to improvement. Choux en Biscuits, dits Gateaux à la d'Artois. Take a pint of thin cream, which boil in a stew-pan large enough to contain four quarts, with a little salt, a little sugar, a pinch of orange-flower praliné, and two ounces of fresh butter. When the cream has boiled, skim off the orange-flower. Take some dry flour that has been sifted through a silk sieve, and throw a handful into the boiling cream. If the cream can absorb more, put a little more to dry on the fire, and keep stirring with the wooden spoon till the paste no longer sticks to it. Next take five very fresh eggs, break three of them whole, one after the other, and stir quick; then throw in the yolks only of the other two, but as that is not sufficient to moisten your paste properly, add as much thick cream to it as the paste can imbibe. Do not make this paste too liquid; dress the chour on a baking sheet, with a spoon; give them the shape of an egg, dorez them, and put them into the oven. When they are baked, glaze them first with sugar; next use the salamander, and serve up hot. 397 When it begins to boil, take it off the fire to mix it well; then put it on again for about twelve minutes. Melt a quarter of a pound of very fresh butter in a stew-pan, and when properly clarified, add it to the paste, and put the whole into a basin to cool. Next rasp upon a bit of sugar the peel of a lemon (put sugar according to your taste), and add to it an ounce of bitter macaroons ; if the paste is too thick, put to it a spoonful of cream; if too thin, the yolks of two eggs. This cream must take various flavours, as vanilla, orange, coffee, chocolate, &c.&c. but it is always the same cream. When you wish to make a very fine tart- let, mix with this cream some fromage à la crême. Put some trimmings of puff-paste into buttered tartlet moulds, and a spoonful of the cream over the paste, and a little star of paste over the middle : bake them in a pretty sharp oven. Glaze with fine sugar, and use the salamander, that the star may be well glazed. This sort of cream is used only for tourtes, tartlets, and darioles. Almond Paste. Take a pound of sweet almonds, blanch them in boil- ing water; take off the peel, and let them soak in cold water four hours; then pound them well in a mortar; add a little water, to prevent them from turning to oil; after they are very fine and quite in a paste, put in three-quarters of a pound of sugar well pounded, and mix all together in the mortar. If your paste is quite fine, take it out of the mor- tar, put it into a stew-pan over a slow fire, and stir it with a wooden spoon till it becomes white and dry; then put it again into the mortar, and mix with it a little melted gum tragacanth, that has been strained through a towel; take care to keep it covered, to prevent it from drying. You may give what scent you please, as lemon, vanilla, rose, orange, 398 &c. &c. If you use almond paste to make vases, or baskets, or tartlets, keep it always free from dust, spread it on a marble with a rolling-pin as thin as possible, and if you put it into a mould, butter the mould lightly, and give the paste the form of it, Bake in a moderate oven. Tartlets of Almond Paste. BUTTER some tartlet moulds, and after having spread the pašte on the dresser, cut it with a cutter to the size of the moulds; put a little sweetmeat in the middle, and a small rosette in the middle of that. Bake in a moderate oven. Tartlets of Almond Paste with Strawberries. SPREAD some almond paste over the pastry table, and cut the paste with a fluted cutter of the same size as other tartlets; butter slightly the moulds, and put them into a moderate oven. When the paste is done almost white, take them out of the mould, and garnish with currant jelly, raspberry, or apricot jam, &c. &c. As the sweetmeats do not go to the oven, they are always of a better colour and taste. In summer time, rub some strawberries through a hair sieve, mix what you have rubbed through with a little sugar and isinglass; put the mixture into ice, and when frozen, put a little into each mould. Tartlets of Jam. TAKE some remnants of puff-paste, which spread on the table with the rolling-pin; have some tartlet moulds well buttered; cut some paste with the paste cutter, the same shape as the moulds, lay the paste in each of them, and