A
989,550











COPYRIGHTED BY EMMA P. EWING.
1890.





PREFAOE
In bread making, as in every other branch of
cookery, the first step is the most difficult, and the
main thing is to become acquainted with the ele-
mentary principles. When one is well grounded
in these, and knows how to make the best quality
of fermented or yeast raised bread of pure wheat
flour, the rest is easily accomplished. Bread mak-
ing then becomes easier and more interesting with
each trial, and Vienna bread, Graham bread, Boston
brown bread-in fact all the varieties of bread, to
gether with rolls and buns of every description, are
achievements to be attained with a little additional
thought and efforto








000KRY MANUAL.
the acetous fermentation is being carried on incipi-
ently, in consequence of the air, which comes in
contact with the dough, exerting its influence in
forming acetic acid from the alcohol; and the
longer the dough is exposed to the atmosphere the
greater will be the quantity of acetic acid formed,
and the more liable the bread will be to have a sour
or harsh, unpleasant taste.
10.—The great need, therefore, of bread makers is
a ferment that will, within a given time, produce
only alcohol and carbonic acid, and consequently of
a yeast that can be depended upon to accomplish
such a result.
YEAST.
The first thing to be considered in bread making
is the yeast. Without good yeast it is impossible
to make good bread. A great deal depends upon
the quality of flour used for making bread; but
unless the yeast is good the best quality of bread
can not be made from the most superior grade of
flour, and much excellent flour is spoiled by con-
junction with worthless yeast in the attempt to
make it into bread.
The compressed yeast, 80 much used in cities, is
in all respects, the best commercial yeast yet dis


000KKBY MANUAL
RRYHT.
The first step in bread making is the preparation
of the ferment
Pour gradually, stirring meanwhile, & qnart of
boiling water upon half a pint of wheat flour.
When the mixture has cooled to about lukewarm.
ness (80°) add a gill of yeast, stir well, cover
closely, and let stand till thoroughly light and a
mass of white foam. Taste it, and it bites like beer;
stir it, and it seems to dance and sparkle with
exuberant life, while the odor it emits is strongly
alcoholic. Ferment can be kept for several hours
after it becomes light and foamy without growing
sour, or appearing to deteriorate in any manner.
But it is better to use it as soon as it reaches this
stage, as it is then undoubtedly at its very best
estate. The time required for ferment to grow
light, varies from two to six hours, according to the
strength of the yeast put in it, and the temper-
ature of the place where it stands. When dae
attention is given to these things, the custom of
preparing or "setting” ferment in the evening to be
used in bread making the next day, is a con.
venient one; and, as it usually proves satisfactory,
is in no way objectionable.


000KERY MANUAL
a trifle more elastic and spongy than that which
rises in separate loaves; but the latter seems to ex-
cel the former in sweetness and delicacy of flavor.
In either case the bread will be good.
POINTS FOR CONSIDERATION.
Two points in this mode of making bread de-
serve special attention:-
1. The flour is added repeatedly after intervals
of fermentation, and as it contains fresh food for
the yeast, these frequent additions of flour keep the
yeast in a vigorous and healthy condition during
the entire period of bread making.
2. The fermentation is always arrested in the
sponge and dough before it arrives at the exhaust-
ive point ; for whenever sponge or dough is al-
lowed to reach its utmost limit of expansion and
fall back or “tumble in,” as it invariably does at
this crisis, it loses something of excellence that no
after labor or attention can restore.
ANOTHER METHOD FOR MAKING BREAD.
Another method of making bread is to mix the
yeast with the wetting, and gradually add flour,
working it meanwhile, until the dough is of the
proper consistency, when it should be kneaded


16
00OKERY MANUAL
added, and the dough made considerably stiffer,
without perceptible detriment. Dough for fancy
bread and rolls should be quite stiff, so as to retain
any desired shape or form. Soft, spongy bread
possesses greater delicacy when freshly baked, but
appears to lose its moisture and grow stale much
sooner than that which is more compact.
TIME REQUIRED FOR KNEADING.
The length of time required for kneading or
working dough is materially affected by the
quality of the flour. Flour exposed to the atinos-
phere deteriorates quite rapidly, and the moisture
it absorbs so impairs the tenacity of its gluten,
that bread of the best quality can not be made
from it, in spite of all the working and kneading
that may be given to the dough. Much less time is
required for kneading dough made from choice,
than from inferior brands of flour.
PULLING AND STRETCHING DOUGH.
It is an established fact that dough is rendered
tough and elastic by working and kneading; but
as the same result can be accomplished sooner and
less laboriously by pulling and stretching, it is ad.
visable, in making bread, to pull and stretch as
well as to work and knead the dough.


18
000KERY MANUAL
form without trouble. It does not stick to the
hands or the molding board. It is in its most
amiable mood. It is perfectly docile and obedient
except in one respect-it can not be put down and
kept down; and any bread dough that can is poor
staff that will never rise to distinction or win ad.
miration.
SHOULD RISEN DOUGH BE KNEADED!
Dough after having perfectly risen should not
be kneaded again. If in pans, it should be im.
mediately baked. If in mass, it should be divided
into loaves or rolls, and gently pulled, rolled or
folded into shape, when it may also be put to bake.
These loaves or rolls will, however, be lighter and
more delicate if permitted to rise again before they
are placed in the oven. Much of the superior ex-
cellence of the Vienna Imperial roll is due to the
peculiar manipulation the light dough is subjected
to just before it is placed in the baking pan.
RISING IN THE PANS.
The final and perhaps most important point in
bread making has been reached when the loaves
are put in the pans to rise for the last time. To
decide when dough is just light enough to bake, is


20
OOOKERY MANUAL.
perfection, than after it attains the altitude at
which it begins to retrograde.
PROPER SIZE FOR BREAD PAN8.
The excellince of bread is greatly dependent
upon the perfection of its air cells. The sooner
these are fixed by heat through the entire loaf, after
it is put in the oven, the finer will be the quality of
the bread. And as these cells can be fixed more
readily in a small, than a large loaf, or than in sev.
eral small loaves packed together in a large pan, it
is quite important that bread pans should be of the
proper dimensions. It has been satisfactorily dem.
onstrated that a pan in which bread will bake
most perfectly should be about four inches in
width, four inches in depth, and adapted to the ca-
pacity of the oven in length.
POTATO BREAD.
Potato added to flour is generally supposed to
improve the quality of bread. That it does, is un.
questionably true, where the flour used is of an in-
ferior grade. “Of all starches,” says Dr. Graham,
“ the starch found in the potato is the best adapted
to the growth of yeast, and in using potato in
bread, bakers made practical application of a fact


BREAD.
TESTS FOR BAKED BREAD.
There are various methods of testing bread and
ascertaining when it is thoronghly baked.
1. A loaf of bread, if sufficiently done, will not
burn the hand when lifted from the baking pan.
If it does, there is more hot steam within than is
consistent with thorough baking, and the loat
should be replaced, instantly, in the oven.
2. If the bottom of a well-baked loaf be tapped
with the finger, a hollow, empty sound will be
emitted.
3. The crust of a loaf when properly baked is
of a rich, brown color; and if the inside or crumb
be subjected to light pressure, while fresh, it re-
bounds the instant the pressure is removed.
4. Underdone bread is easily compressed into
wads, when it resembles putty in appearance, and
is about as difficult of digestion as the greasy clay
that is such a favorite article of diet among igno-
rant “clay eaters."
REMOVAL FROM THE PANS.
Bread as soon as baked should be taken from the
pans and placed, uncovered, in such position as
will expose the greatest possible amount of surface


28
OOOKERY MANUAL
to the air. This will prevent the crust from be..
coming sodden, and permit the rapid escape of the
carbonic acid gas evolved in the process of fermen.
tation. This gas is essential to expand the dough
and lighten the bread, but its presence is not con-
ducive to health, and it should be encouraged to
take its exit at the earliest possible moment after
performing its mission.
SHOULD BREAD BE EATEN WARM ?
The cell walls of fermented bread are coated with
glassy starch which is quite moist and adhesive
while the bread is warm and fresh, and if bread is
eaten while in this condition—although very thor.
oughly baked—it becomes a compact mass, almost
impervious to the gastric juices, and resists for a
much longer time than stale or cold bread, the di-
gestive powers of the stomach. Moreover, the
yeast plants or germs generated during fermenta-
tion, although in a great measure destroyed by the
heat of the oven, continue to a certain extent to live
for some time after bread has been baked, and if
taken into the human system may prove injurious
to health. Hence fermented bread should never be
eaten till, at least, thoroughly cold.


MINOR POINTS IN BREAD MAKING.
GREASE IN BREAD.
Experience proves that butter, lard or grease of
any kind put into dough does not improve the
quality of the bread, and as it to some extent affects
the fermentation injurionsly, it should, when used,
be added at the last kneading. But as the crisp
tenderness caused by its introduction can be pro-
duced perfectly by skillful manipulating and bak-
ing, no “shortening” other than milk is ever nec-
essary in bread.
BALT IN BREAD.
Too much salt injures the flavor of bread. When
home-made yeast is used no salt is required. A
teaspoonful of salt should be added to each quart
of wetting when compressed yeast is used.
GREASED BREAD BOWLS.
To prevent dough from sticking, the bowl or ves-
(29)


000KERY MANUAL
sel in which it is put to rise should always be
greased with a little lard, batter or drippings.
BRUSHING WITH MILK.
If bread and rolls are brushed lightly with milk
immediately before they are put in, and after they
are taken from the oven, the color and flavor of the
crust will be materially improved.
ABOUT ROLLS.
Rolls are more crisp and tender when baked
quickly, and the heat of the oven should be some-
what greater for rolls than for bread. They should
also be considerably lighter than bread when put
to bake, as the fermentation is arrested so rapidly
by the heat required for baking them properly, that
they rise but little after they go in the oven.
WOODEN BREAD TRAYS.
Wooden trays or bowls are lighter and more
easily handled than stone or earthen vessels, but
are so much more difficult to keep clean and sweet
that they are less desirable in bread making.


SOUPS


SOUP AND SOUP MAKING.
PRELIMINARY REMARKS.
Soup is so convenient, economical and health-
ful, that as an article of diet it ranks second in im-
portance only to bread; and soup making is justly
entitled to a prominent place in the science of
cookery.
A simple soup or broth of good quality, delicate-
ly seasoned with salt and pepper, or containing
some of the grains, or grain products, is always ac-
ceptable, and none of the more complex soups that
can be readily secured by a judicious introduction
of vegetables, herbs and spices ever meet with pop-
alar disfavor.
There are enough scraps of cooked and uncooked
meats, trimmings of roasts, steaks, chops, cutlets
and so on in nearly every house to keep the family


0OOKERY MANUAL.
supplied with nutritious, palatable soup, with very
little trouble and at only a slight expense for ad-
ditional material. And as the best dinner can
generally be preceded with advantage by a light
soup of some kind, to an ordinary, cold, or“picked.
up” family dinner, a plate of soup is an invaluable
· adjunct, and can be prepared in a few minutes in
a kitchen where the value of the stock pot is recog-
nized, and the economy of good cooking under-
stood.
Soup scientifically prepared is easier of digestion
than almost any other article of diet. The solid
matter which enters into its composition and
would in the original form require several hours
for digestion, is so broken down in the process of
preparation that it can be readily assiinilated with
very little expenditure of vital force; and heing
absorbed by the stomach as soon as eaten, goes im.
mediately to nourish the system.
But soup to fulfill its true mission must be at-
tractive in appearance, agreeable in flavor and un.
mistakable in character. It must not be a weak,
sloppy, characterless compound, nor a crude,
greasy, inharmonious hodge-podge. The defects
of unsavory, unpalatable, indigestible soups may


SOUPS.
be concealed, but can not be removed by the ex-
cessive use of salt, pepper and other spices and con-
diments. And in order that soup of any kind may
legitimately aspire to high rank, either as a nutri-
tive or hygienic agent, it must be skillfully pre-
pared, so as to please the eye and gratify the
palate
HOW TO MAKE SOUP STOCK.
A STOCK POT.
Any ordinary pot or kettle can be used for pre-
paring stock, but as a “digester” or stock pot is
one of the most useful utensils known to the culi-
nary art, and can be obtained at almost any hard-
ware store, no kitchen should be without one.
The cook, who is provided with a stock pot, and
habitually uses it two or three times a week, can
atilize all available scraps, and generally has a
supply of stock on hand from which an acceptable
soup, or delicious sauce can be improvised in
short time, and with very little trouble.


10
OOOKERY MANUAL
The stock pot should not remain on the stove or
range, and fresh material be added from time to
time to that which is partly or wholly cooked; but
whenever a quantity of scraps accumulate they
should be carefully prepared and put to cook.
BOUP STOOK.
A great many soups are made without the pre-
vious preparation of a specially distinctive stock.
But stock has as legitimate an existence in soup
making, as ferment has in bread making; and its
recognition is quite essential to a perfect under-
standing of the subject. Stock is the base of soups.
It is the fluid foundation with which other materials
are mixed, and skillfully incorporated into soups,
that in modern bills of fare are bewilderingly des-
ignated potages, purees, and consommes.
Soup stock, in the strictest sense of the term, is
the fluid extract of meat or meat and bones, and is
of two kinds:-simple and compound.
SIMPLE stock is the extract from a single kind of
Aesh, fish or fowl. COMPOUND stock is the extract
from two or more kinds of flesh, fish or fowl min.
gled and cooked together, or mixed together, after
boing cooked separately.


14
COOKERY MANUAL
several hours, when the water should be brought
slowly to the boiling point. This tea is not so na.
tritious as stock simmered for two or three hours,
but is believed by physicians to exercise a special
tonic and exhilerating influence upon the system
independent of any directly nutritive quality it may
possess.
CONSISTENCY OF STOOK.
The consistency of stock depends greatly upon
the material used, and the length of time it is
cooked. Bones contain a large quantity of gelatin.
ous matter, and when equal portions of meat and
bones are used, the stock, when cold, will be quite
stiff and gelatinous; and the longer it is allowed to
simmer, the more stiff and gelatinous it will be-
come. If meat alone is used, or if the stock is
cooked but a short time, it will remain in liquid
form.
TIME REQUIRED FOR MAKING STOOK.
When meat and bones are well cut and broken
ap, all their valuable qualities will by proper soak-
ing and simmering be extracted in two or three
hours; and although longer cooking will render the
stock thicker and more gelatinous, it is not advis


SOUPS.
17
new combination of materials to entitle a soup to
a distinctive name, and as grotesqne a one as its
originator may choose to bestow upon it.
All soups, however, can be classified and arranged
under five heads, viz.:
1. Plain soup.
2. Clear soup.
3. Vegetable soup.
4. White sonp.
5. Mixed soup.
To one or the other of these divisions overy-
thing in the nature of soup belonys; and a little
intelligent thought will enable the cook to select
the materials adapted to, and appropriate for use in
each division.
FLAVOR AND COLOR OF SOUP.
The flavor of the solid material, either animal or
vegetable from which a soup takes its naine, should
always predominate when the soup is served, and
only such spices should be added in its prepara-
tion as have a tendency to bring out, and per-
fectly develop the flavor of the dominant article.
This proposition holds good, and should be con-
formed to also, in regard to the color; so far, at


SOUPS.
cloves, five pepper corns, and cover with five qnarts
of plain or compound stock. Simmer gently for
an hour, strain, remove the grease, and clarify.
Heat to boiling point, season with salt and pepper,
add a tablespoonful of caramel and serve. If prop-
erly made, and carefully strained and clarified, this
soup will be as transparent as amber.
No. 2.-TOMATO SOUP.
To four quarts of clear soup, add a quart of
strained stewed tomato, a teaspoonful of sugar, a
tablespoonful each of corn starch and butter stirred
together, and salt and pepper to taste. Boil a few
minutes and serve.
No. 3.—JULIENNE SOUP.
To four quarts of clear soup, add a gill each of
carrot, parsnip, turnip, celery, string beans, core of
lettuce, and a small onion, cut into thin pieces
about an inch in length, and simmer gently until
all the vegetables are tender. Season to taste with
salt and pepper, and ten or fifteen minutes before
serving the soup, put into it a few water cresses or
some sorrel leaves. If all the vegetables are not
readily obtainable, one or more of them can be
omitted without serious detriment to either the
flavor or title of the soup.


89
OOOKERY MANUAL
CLASS THREE.
VEGETABLE SOUPS.
Vegetable soup is made by cooking vegetables in
either simple or compound stock; or a special stock
may be prepared by adding water or milk to the
juice extracted from vegetables. A vegetable soup
may contain but a single vegetable; or it may con-
tain a variety of vegetables, and be of any color de-
sired. The vegetables may be cooked a longer or
shorter time, and left in, or strained out of the
soup according to taste or fancy.
No. 1.-PLAIN VEGETABLE SOUP.
To three quarts of stock add a gill each of sliced
carrot, turnip, parsnip and onion, and simmer gent.
ly till tender. Half an hour before serving, add
a stalk of celery cut in small pieces, or two or three
sprigs of parsley. Season with salt and pepper.
A number of plain vegetable soups quite differ.
ent in character can be very readily compounded
by nsing a greater or smaller variety of vegetables,
or by adapting the combination to the season and
the appetite.


26
OOOKERY MANUAL
No. 3.—A RIOH WAITE 800%.
Simmer for an hour in three quarts of whito
stock a gill each of white turnip, onion and celery
cut in small pieces, together with a blade of mace.
Strain, thicken with two ounces of flour, boil two
minutes, add half a pint of sweet cream and sea-
son with salt and pepper. When about to boil stir
in the well beaten yolks of three eggs, and serve
OLASS FIVE
MIXED SOUPS.
Delicacy in seasoning and flavoring is pre-emi.
nently the distinguishing mark of a fine soup of
any kind; but to mix, mingle and combine many
different articles of food so as to produce a soup
whose flavor is distinct from any single ingredient
entering into its composition, yet embodying the
best qualities of each, is the true criterion of merit
in a mixed soup.
Nearly all soups are in a certain sense mixed
soaps; but plain, clear, vegetable and white soapu,


BOUPS.
29
broiled chop or steak, etc., etc.; put them in the
stock pot or soup kettle with sufficient cold water,
simmer for an hour, removing any scum that rises,
then strain and set aside. Next day remove the
grease, put the soup to cook, and when it boils, sea-
son with salt and pepper, and if it seems to need
other seasoning add a pinch of thyme, or celery
seed, or a teaspoonful of sugar. It is sometimes
well to put half a bay leaf and two or three cloves
in the kettle with the scraps. The flavorings and
spices required in a mixed soup of this description
depend greatly upon the nature of the scraps used.
If they are mostly light and delicate, thyme, mace
celery, or parsley can be added; if dark and heavy,
cloves, bay leaf, sweet marjoram or a little Worces
tershire sauce, or walnut or other catsup can bu
ased more appropriately. Soinetimes an ounce
each of butter and flour cooked together in a sauce-
pan till browned, and then added to the soup, give
it the very thing it lacks; or it may be that the
flour stirred with a gill of cold sweet cream is what
is needed to make it a perfect soup.
To select and harmonize the materials for a
mixed soup is one of the best evidences of culinary
capacity; and the cook who can do this success
C
uccess.


SOUPS.
In changing an oyster stew to a soup, the thick-
ening and extra liquid should be added and cooked
before the oysters are put into it.
POTAGES, PUREES AND CONSOMMES.
These are French terms used to designate differ-
ent kinds of soups; but they are applied so indis.
criminately as to possess very little significance,
even for culinary adepts; and the dividing line be-
tween a potage, a puree, a consom me, and an or.
dinary soup, is so imaginary as to be indistinct to
plain every-day people. But as a foreign or gro-
tesqne name does not detract from the quality of a
good thing, those who prefer to call a soup a potage
a paree or a consomme, can do so with impunity,
and not legally infringe on the domain of any pro-
fessional cook.
HOW TO SOALD SOUP.
To scald stock or soup properly, it must be
brought to the boiling point and thoroughly heated.
Its liability to ferment and grow sour is only in.
creased by merely re-warming it.
WHEN TO ADD FLAVORING.
Vegetables when used merely to flavor sonps
should be simmered only long enough to extract


82
000KERY MANUAL.
their juices; and aromatic spices, orange and lem.
on juice, and other liquid flavorings whose subtle
essences are driven off by heat, should be added
barely a sufficient length of time before the soup is
served, for them to blend and harmonize with the
other materials—in fact it is usually better to put
them in the tureen and pour the soup over them
just before it goes to the table.
ORDER OF ADDING VEGETABLES.
Where several kinds of vegetables are used in the
preparation of a soup, care should be taken to pat
those that require most cooking in the kettle first;
and, if possible, to limit the simmering of each kind
to the time actually necessary to cook it tender.
BROWNING VEGETABLES.
Breakfast bacon and ham give a peculiarly fine
flavor to many soups, and when they are used the
vegetables added to such soups should be browned
in the fryings of the meat; but when neither bacon
nor ham is used, the vegetables should be browned
in butter, as in most cases they impart a richer
flavor to the soup, if nicely browned in a little
grease before being added.





SALADS


OONTENTS.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
ORANGE SALAD . . .
ONION SALAD . . . .
OYSTER SALAD . . . .
OYSTER MAYONNAISE.
Potato SALAD . . .
RASPBERRY SALAD .
TRANSPARENT SALAD DRESSING
SHRIMP SALAD . . . .
TOMATO SALAD.
SALMON SALAD . . . .
SARDINE SALAD . . .
VEGETABLE Salads . . .
.
80
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.


SALAD AND SALAD MAKING.
PRELIMINARY REMARKS.
Salads are wholesome food as well as dainty rel-
ishes. But the average cook shrinks in such dis-
may from the imaginary mysteries of their prepa-
ration, that pickles and condiments have, to a great
extent, taken the place they should legitimately oc-
capy in our dietary.
Salads when properly made and artistically ar.
ranged, are so grateful to the taste, and so pleasing
to the sight, that no cultured family can well afford
to dispense with them; and their value among all
classes, as hygienic and esthetic agents, can scarce-
ly be over-estimated.
Cook book writers, whose knowledge of the sub-
ject is, to say the least, iimited, have disseminated
che erroneous idea that salads are troublesome and


SALADS.
3.-Fish Salads.
4.—Meat Salads.
5.–Mixed Salads.
To one or the other of these classes every imag-
inable kind and style of salad belongs, and all kinds
and styles are governed by the same general prin-
ciples that underlie the art of salad making.
DIVISION OF OLASSES.
Each class of salads may, however, be appropri
ately divided into two kinds—simple and com
pound salads.
A SIMPLE SALAD contains only a single sort of
fruit, vegetable, fish or meat.
A COMPOUND SALAD contains two or more sorts of
fruit, vegetables, fish or meat.
CLASSIFICATION OF SALAD DRESSING.
As a salad may consist only of one sort of fruit,
vegetables, etc., so a dressing may be simply a
sprinkle of salt or sugar, or a few drops of oil or
vinegar. But as there are elaborate salads of va-
rious kinds, so there are elaborate dressings, capa-
ble of alınost endless changes and modifications.
There are, nevertheless, but four distinct classes
of salad dressing, viz:


10
COOKERY MANUAL
1.–Transparent Dressing.
2.-French Dressing.
3.-Cream Dressing.
4.- Mayonnaise Dressing.
THREE IMPORTANT RULES.
To excel in salad making, as in every other branch
of cookery, a close analytical study of the subject
is necessary; but the best success is attainable only
hy a strict observance of three very important
rules, viz:-
1.--The ingredients composing the salad and
dressing must be suitably chosen.
2.—They must be introduced into the mixture
in a certain, specific order.
3.—The method of mixing inust be suited to the
nature of the ingredients.
SALAD DRESSINGS.
A dressing, whether of salt, sugar, vinegar, or a
combination of many things, should not be the
prominent or main feature of a salad. It should
be only a dressing--an adjunct, to tone down and
soften too sharp an acid, or too pungent a flavor; or
to render finer and more distinctive, some peculiar
individuality of the fruits, vegetables, etc., com pos-


COOKERY MANUAL.
TRANSPARENT ORANGE DRESSING.
To the juice of three oranges and one lemon,
which should make a half pint, add four ounces of
sugar, one gill of sherry wine, and the white and
shell of one egg. Beat all together. Heat to boil.
ing point. Simmer five minutes. Strain. The
wine may be omitted from this dressing, if desired.
And, if liked, a small portion of the grated peel of
both orange and lemon can be added.
JELLIED TRANSPARENT ORANGE DRESSING.
Is made by adding to the mixture before heat-
ing it, half an ounce of gelatine soaked an hour in
a gill of cold water.
TRANSPARENT TOMATO DRESSING.
Thicken a pint of stewed, strained tomato, with
a tablespoonful of arrow root mixed with cold wa.
ter. Boil two minutes. Add an ounce of butter,
half a teaspoonful of sugar, the same of salt, and a
little pepper. This is very nice, either hot or cold,
with any kind of meat salad.
JELLIED TRANSPARENT VEGETABLE DRESSING.
To one quart of boiling water slightly salted, or


BALADS.
13
the same quantity of fish, chicker, or veal broth,
add one medium sized carrot, one onion, half a bay
leaf, a root of celery, ten cloves, twenty allspice,
thirty pepper corns, and half a teaspoonful of
white mustard seed. Simmer an hour, strain and
let cool. To each pint of the liquor add a pint of
vinegar, an ounce of gelatine soaked in cold water,
and the white and shell of an egg. Heat to boil-
ing point, simmer five minutes and strain.
Class 2.
FRENCH DRESSING.
To four teaspoonfuls of vinegar add half a tea-
spoonful of salt and one eighth of a teaspoonful of
pepper; mix, and pour over salad, then add olive
oil to taste.
FRENCH DRESSING, WITA MUSTARD.
To half a teaspoonful of made mustard, add ol.
ive oil slowly, stirring constantly. When thick,
add vinegar in like manner. And thus alternate
until the requisite proportions of oil and vinegar
have been added. By observing this method of
mixing, a large bottle of oil can be made into 8
perfectly smooth dressing-with only the half tea


SALADS.
15
and an ounce of butter, add a pint of sweet cream
and season to taste with salt and pepper. Use on
boiled cabbage, cauliflower, potatoes, turnips, car.
rots, parsnips, beets or any vegetables.
This dressing may be varied by adding whites
or yolks of eggs, minced onions, parsley, pickles,
capers, vinegar or lemon juice; and may be used
warm or cold according to taste.
HOT SLAW DRESSING.
Heat together to boiling point in a stew pan a
gill of vinegar and an ounce of butter. Stir in an
egg well beaten, and add a gill of sweet cream.
Season to taste.
Another hot slaw dressing may be made in this
manner: Mix together a gill of water and a gill
of vineyar. Thicken with half an ounce of flour.
Cook two minutes, add an ounce of butter and
season to taste.
Class 4.
MAYONNAISE DRESSING.
This is the most popular salad dressing in ase,
and is made in this manner: With a small wood-
en spoon stir the yolk of an uncooked egg in an


SALADS.
17
beating—one even teaspoonful of mustard, one tea-
spoonful of salt, and a teaspoonful and a half of
vinegar. Add the yolk of an egg, beat all well to-
gether, then add gradually half a pint of olive oil.
The oil should be poured in a fine thread-like
stream, and the mixture all the while be beaten
rapidly. More vinegar or lemon juice may be
used if required to make it the proper consistency.
COOKED MAYONNAISE DRESSING.
Add the well beaten yolks of five eggs to five
tablespoonfuls of boiling vinegar. Cook in an
earthen bowl, set in a pan of boiling water, until
stiff-being careful to stir clean from the sides of
the bowl while cooking. Remove from the fire,
add four ounces of butter, and stir until cool and
perfectly mixed. When quite cold season to taste
with salt, pepper, mustard, etc., and thin with
sweet cream to the required consistency. Oil, if
preferred, may be used in place of cream. If the
mixture when cooked is not perfectly smooth, it
should be rubbed through a hair sieve. This is an
excellent and convenient salad dressing; and when
properly cooked will keep, without deterioration,
for several days.


COOKERY MANUAL.
SYDNEY SMITH'S SALAD DRESSING.
The hard boiled yolks of eg:s were formerly much
nised, and are by some people still preferred for
Ipaking salad dressing. Perhaps the best recipe,
wlien they are used, is the one popularized by be.
iny reduced to rhyme by the talented and witty
English clergymnan after whom it was named.
Two boiled potatoes passed through kitchen sieve,
Smoothness and softness to the salad give.
Of mordant mustard add a si gle spoon:
Distrust the condiment which bites too soon;
But deem it not, thou man of herbs, a fault
To add a double quantity of salt;
Three times the spoon with oil of Lucca crown,
And once with vinegar procured from town.
True favor needs it, and your poet begs,
The pounded yellow of two hard-boiled eggs.
Let onion atoms lurk within the bowl,
And, scarce suspected, animate the whole;
And, lastly, on the flavored com'ound toss
A magic teaspoon of anchovy sauce.
Ob, green and glorious! A herbaceous treat!
'Twould tempt the dying anchorite to eat;
Back to the world he'd turn his feeting soul,
And plunge his fingers in the salad bowl!
Serenely full, the epicure would say,
Fate can not harm me, I have dived to-day.


COOKERY MANUAL.
sprinkled with sugar, or eaten without, according
to taste.
A better way, perhaps, to serve currant salad is
to remove the fruit from the stems, sprinkle lightly
with fine sugar, and set in a cold place an hour be-
fore serving.
Any fruit may be served, in a similar manner,
as a salad.
COMPOUND FRUIT SALAD
In combining fruits in salads it is well to select
for the purpose, such as not only harmonize in fla-
vor, but also act as helps to each other.
RASPBERRY SALAD
Mix in equal proportions raspberries and cur-
rants, by placing in a glass or porcelain bowl, a
layer of currants sprinkled with sugar, then a layer
of raspberries sprinkled with sugar, and thus alter-
nating until all the fruit is added. Set in a cold
place an hour before using. Raspberries and our
rants make a very harmonious mixture. The rasp-
berries give a fine flavor, and the currants add piq.
aanoy and character to the dish.
ORANGE SALAD.
Put in the salad bowl in alternate layers, the do


SALADS.
21
sired quantity of oranges and bananas, carefully
sliced. Pour over them a transparent dressing.
Cover closely and set in a cold place two or three
hours. In a similar manner fruit salads may be
prepared indefinitely, and by the omission or addi.
tion of different fruits, a great variety of combina-
tions can be made with excellent results. A va-
riety of transparent dressings can also be made, sim-
ilar tr transparent orange dressing, and adapted to
different tastes and different salads, by a harmoni-
ous combination of different fruit juices. But
whenever fruits or fruit juices are mixed in a salad,
it is very essential that the mixture should stand
in a cool place, for at least an hour before being
used, so that each distinctive flavor may be com-
bined and lost, in a rich commingling of the whole.
FRUIT SALAD IN JELLY.
Pre pare a jellied transparent orange dressing, or
a jellied transparent dressing of the kind desired.
Fill a mold of the proper size and form, to the
depth of one fourth of an inch, with it. Put the
mold on ice until the jelly is firmly set, then ar-
range a layer of fruit upon it, so as to produce a
pretty effect when turned from the mold. Do not


22
OOOKKRY MANUAL.
let the fruit touch the sides of the mold. - Fill with
jelly, just beginning to thicken, all the interstices
between the pieces of fruit and between the fruit
and the sides of the mold. Put on ice, or in a cold
place, till firmly set; then add another layer of fruit,
again filling in with jelly and putting in a cold
place; and so repeat until the mold is filled. It
should then stand on ice for several hours, and just
before serving should be placed for an instant in
hot water,-or the mold should be wrapped in a
towel wrung from hot water, and the salad be
turned out upon a shallow dish.
In this, and in a similar way very beautiful ef.
fects can be produced in preparing fruits for salads
and desserts.
CLASS 2.
VEGETABLE SALADS.
The same general principles that govern the
preparation of fruit salads, are applicable in the
preparation of vegetable salads.
Lettuce, cabbage, cucumbers, tomatoes, cresses,
nasturtiums, dandelions, onions, radishes, etc., are
all served raw, and frequently alone as salads, and
are preferred by many people, without the addi.


SALADS.
23
tion of salt, sugar, vinegar or condiments of any
kind.
Asparagus, beans, peas, cauliflower, salsify,
carrots, turnips, and in fact every known vegetable,
may when cooked, be served alone in salads, if de-
sired; and all vegetables may be combined and
mixed, more or less, according to taste or fancy,
in compound salads. Onion is, however, the most
miscellaneous and universal aid, or adjunct, in the
formation of vegetable salads, and is appropriately
called into service in combination with cucumbers,
tomatoes, lettuce, potatoes, and a number of other
vegetables.
LETTUCE SALAD.
Lettuce is a popular favorite among vegetable
salads, and is served, dressed and undressed, in an
almost endless variety of ways. Lettuce is one of
the most delicate of vegetables in both flavor and
texture, and rough handling deteriorates, and to a
great extent, spoils it. After being carefully rinsed
and drained it should remain on ice, or in a cool
place, nntil wanted for use; and is best, served
with the leaves anbroken. The dressing for let-
tuce may be very simple, or it may consist of


24
COOKERY MANUAL.
many things mixed and mingled together; but it
shwuld invariably be added at table. Some people
like lettuce dressed with sugar and vinegar. Oth-
ers prefer it dressed with sugar and cream. But
the most approved dressing for lettuce is French
dressing, with or without mustard, according to
taste. Cresses, onions and radishes make a pretty
garnish for a dish of lettuce; and either one of
thern may be mixed with the lettuce when dressed;
or they may all be served together, forming a com-
pound salad.
CABBAGE SALAD.
Cabbage comes next in popularity to lettuce as
a salad, on account of its crisp sweetness, and its
ability to stand exposure and rough treatment
without material detriment. By a great many it
is preferred to any other salad. Cabbage, when at
its best estate, makes a delicious salad-dressed
either simply or lavishly. Perhaps as a dressing for
it, a cooked Mayonnaise, or a cream dressing is, on
all accounts, most appropriate-either of which
can be varied to a considerable extent, to meet the
special requirements of the salad. The addition
of a small quantity of sugar to a dressing for cab.


SALADS.
25
bage may be an improvement, in supplying a sac-
charine need; but mustard should always be omit-
ted, as cabbage possesses that flavor, or family trait,
in a sufficient degree. Celery appears to be about
the only vegetable that makes a perfectly harmo-
vious combination with cabbage.
POTATO SALAD.
Potato salad is very appetizing, and deservedly
popular. It should be served with cooked Mayoj).
paise dressing, to which has been added finely
minced onion and parsley, in the proportion of one
tablespoonful of each to a pint of dressing. The
dressing for potato salad forms an exception to the
general rule applicable to salad dressing, and
should have a predominating flavor, for the reason
that cold boiled potatoes have no especial flavor'
that can be developed, or which it is desirable to
preserve; and a piquant flavor, like that of onions
or cresses, added to the dressing, renders the salad
much more delicious.
Potatoes for salad should be boiled until perfect-
ly tender, but not until they break and fall to
pieces. When cold they should be sliced very
thin, and put with the dressing in alternate layers,


26
OOOKERY MANUAL.
in the salad bowl. In the preparation of potato
salad, as in most dishes of the class, stirring is ob-
jectionable, and should be avoided.
A cream dressing may be used for potato sal.
ad, in place of a cooked Mayonnaise, if preferred;
but French dressing, although much used, is inap-
propriate, on account of the potato absorbing the
vinegar; and because the potato is a great absorb-
ent, the dressing used should be comparatively
thin, and a greater quantity should be provided
than for lettuce or cabbage salad. Potatoes may
be mixed with cooked vegetables of any and every
sort, in a compound salad.
BEET SALAD.
Beets, well boiled and sliced, may be served with
simple cream dressing, with or without vinegar,
either warm or cold, and constitute an acceptable
dish,—whether it be termed a vegetable or a salad.
Mixed with an equal portion of potato, and served
with cream dressing they make a very inviting and
appetizing salad. Beets, like potatoes, may be
mixed with all sorts of vegetables, into compound
salads.


BALADS.
TOMATO SALAD.
Slice perfectly ripe tornatves. Arrange taste-
fully on a dish. Place on ice or in a cold place.
Serve with a cream, French, or Mayonnaise dress-
ing.
CHEESE BALAD.
Sprinkle grated cheese plentifully over lettuce
and serve with either French, or cooked Mayon-
naise dressing
ONION SALAD.
Mash together equal quantities of boiled onion
and potato. Season with salt and pepper Add
a small piece of butter or a little sweet cream.
Serve warm.
Another nice onion salad may be made by mix.
ing together in the same way equal quantities of
boiled onion, boiled potato and stewed tomato.
MELON SALAD.
Cantaleops and melons of various kinds, when
dressed with salt, pepper and sugar, can appropri-
ately be classed among salads. They should al-
ways be served as cold as possible.


COOKERY MANUAL.
Olass 3.
FISH SALADS.
Oysters, scallops, shrimps, salmon, and all kinds
of fish may be made into salad either with or with-
out the admixture or accompaniment of vegeta-
bles. It is very important in fish, as in other
classes of salads, to use such dressing as suitably
belongs to the peculiar kind of fish to be served in
salad. If the fish be of a delicate flavor, tront, for
instance, a mild unobtrusive dressing will best
serve the purpose of making the dish most accept-
able to the appetite. But if, on the other land, it
is high flavored, like lobster, or salmon, a majority
of tastes would prefer a dressing that modified or
toned down the excessive sapidity of the fish.
Every variety of dressing is brought into use in
the multiplicity of saiads prepared from fish, and
ire varied to suit tastes and circumstances. The
dressings for many tish and meat salads, are better
made with anchovy or tarragon vinegar; and
minced onion, or onion juice, may be appropriately
added to many dressings.
---
-


80
COOKERY MANUAL
shrimp salad is to put several cooked shrimps in
shallow lettuce cups, formed by placing together
two or more of the cup-shaped leaves of head let-
tuce. When thus served, French dressing, or any
suitable dressing, may be added at table. If the
shrimps have been canned, they should be weli
riused in cold water, and after being drained, be
soaked for at least an hour in vinegar and sweet
oil, in the proportion of one part oil to three parts
vinegar. All surplus oil and vinegar should be
drained froin them before they are served on the
lettuce. Shrimps, lobster, or any cooked fish, may
be minced or cut in small pieces, mixed with a
dressing and placed in cups of lettuce leaves.
These cups can be tastefully arranged in the sal.
ad bowl with pieces of ice-a folded napkin hav.
ing been first placed in the bottom of the bowl,
and covered with lettuce leaves, to absorb the drip-
pings from the ice..
BALMON SALAD.
Salmon makes a specially nice salad when mixed
with cabbage and served with a cream dressing.
Pick the cooked salmon into small pieces free from
skin or bone, and have the cabbage white, crisp


BALADA.
OLARS 4
UKAT SALADS.
Game, poultry, and meats are seldom ased as
salads, unmixed with vegetables. And when so
used can more appropriately be classed with spiced
meats, deviled dainties, etc. A dish of salad can
however, be made from any kind of cold game,
poultry or meat, cut into dice-shaped pieces and
dressed, according to taste, with French, cream, or
Mayonnaise dressing. Or, it may be molded into
ornamental form, with a transparent jellied dress-
ing. One of the best illustrations of salads of this
class is
CHICKEN AND TONGUE SALAD.
Prepare the white meat of cold boiled or roast
chicken, and cold boiled tongue, in equal quanti-
ties, in the form of dice. Make a rich transparent
dressing of chicken broth or stock, seasoned with
salt and pepper, and flavored with tarragon vine-
gar or sherry wine. Mold the same as fruit or fish
salad, arranging the light and dark meats so as to
produce & pretty effect when turned from the
mold.


COOKERY MANUAL
BEHF SALAD.
Prepare cold roast or stewed beef by cutting in
dice free from skin, and tough or hard pieces.
Dress with French dressing and let stand an hour.
Garuish with hard boiled eggs, lettuce or curled
parsley.
Any meat may be served in this way, and if
liked, tomato may be used instead of French dress-
ing.
OLAN B.
MIXED SALADE.
This class of salads comprehends a wide range
of materials, and everything that is used in salad
making may form a part of some variety of mixed
salads. The most popular, perhaps, of all salads is
included in this class, viz.
CHICKEN SALAD.
Select a full grown chicken, and cook by simmer.
*ing very gently in beef stock or water slightly
salted, until perfectly tender. The addition of a
quarter of a pound of salt pork, if of good quality,
will improve the flavor. Lot the fowl cool in the


BALADS.
easur
liquor in which it boiled, and when perfectly cold
remove the skin, and separate the flesh from the
bones. Reject whatever is tough or sinewy. Cut
the reserved portions of flesh into dice a quarter of
an inch in length, and mix thoroughly in an earth-
en bowl, with white crisp celery cat in similar
pieces, in the proportion of two measures of chick
en to one measure of celery. Add cooked or un.
cooked Mayonnaise dressing, with which chopped
pickle, minced olives, or capers have been mingled.
Stir the salad with forks, or with spoon and fork,
put in the salad bowl, smooth the surface, epread
dressing over it, and garnish with celery and curled
parsley.
If celery can not be obtained, nice crisp head let-
tuce or cabbage, properly prepared, and flavored
with celery seed, can be used as a substitute in mak-
ing chicken salad.
HERRING SALAD.
: A very popular German salad is made in this
manner: Soak a dozen pickled Holland herring
over night, drain, remove the skin and bones, and
chop fine. Add a pint of cooked potatoes, half
a pint of cooked beets, half a pint of raw apples,


COOKERY MANUAL.
and six hard boiled eggs chopped in a similar man-
ner, and a gill each of minced onions and capers.
Use French dressing. Mix well together. Fill
little dishes with the mixture, and trim the tops
with parsley, slices of boiled egg, beets, etc.
Iu selecting materials for a mixed salad it is best,
as a general rule, to contine them to one distinct
class. But as some people are willing to tolerate
incongruous inixtures for the sake of producing
marvelous and startling effects, an illustration of
an inharınonious salad of this description may be
found in Prof. Blots felicitous recipe for
A BALAD MACEDOINE.
This salad ought to be called compound salad,
as it is made of a little of everything that can be
served in salad, that is, fish, meat, green and dry
vegetables, etc. When the whole is mixed, you add
chopped parsley, sweet oil, vinegar, salt and pep-
per. You move till your arms are sore, and you
have a salad Macedoine. Every one has a right to
try it.”
OONCLUDING OBSERVATIONS.
Balads, with rare exceptions, should be served


BALADS.
87
crisp and cool. Glass, china or earthen bowls
should be used for nixing, and nickel or silver.
plated knives for cutting and preparing the mate-
rials of which they are composed. Much care
should be observed to avoid unnecessary handling
of the ingredients, and they should not be per.
mitted to come in contact with rude vessels and
crude implements.
Fruit salads are especially acceptable at break-
fast. The heavier salads are more appropriately
served at lunches and suppers, where they form &
principal part of the repast. A rich ralad com.
posed of poultry, fish or meat seems out of place
at dinner, where a simple fruit or vegetable salad
wonld be acceptable as a dainty relish.
All kinds of pickles, olives, capers, hard boiled
eggs, and every variety of fruits and vegetables
may be used in garnishing salads. But in every
case the garnishing materials should be so chosen
that they may be suitably mixed and eaten with
the salad. Meat or wine jellies of various shades
may be cut in fancy forms, and used in decorating
salads; and combined with celery, lettuce, parsley,
or fruits produce a pleasing effect.





܀܀܀
VEGETABLES





TABLE OF CONTENTS
PAGE
8-9
9-
10
I 2
12
I 2
12
13-14
14
•
•
ARTICHOKES - • •
ASPARAGUS • •
BEETS
BEANS . . . .
BRUSSELS SPROUTS .
BROCOLI-
BORECOLE - ..
CAULIFLOWER
CABBAGE • •
CELERY . .
CARROTS - ..
CORN - -
CRESS - - -
CUCUMBERS - -
DRESSINGS FOR VEGETABLES
ENDIVE - - - -
EGG-PLANT •
GREENS • • • •
HOMINY
KALE • • • •
KOHLRABI . . .
10
.
.
.
•
•
•
.
.
.


COTTUM.
.
.
•
. 18
19-20
- 20-2)
21
34
21--22
•
.
22
•
•
23
• 23-24
23
•
•
LETTUCE
MUSHROOMS
MACARONI
OKRA • • •
OYSTER-PLANT
ONIONS - -
PARSLEY • •
PUMPKINS • •
PARSNIPS
PEAS - . •
•
POTATOES - -
RICE . . . .
SWEET POTATOES . .
SPINACH - - - -
SALSIFY - - -
SEA KALE - - -
SQUASH
SAUCE FOR VEGETABLES - -
SEASONINGS FOR VEGETABLES -
TIME TABLE FOR VEGETABLES -
TURNIPS - • • •
TOMATOES . . . . .
-
• 32
33
• 33-34
34
- 37-38
6-8
5
5
- 34-35
35-37
•
·
•
•
.
.
--
-
-


VEGETABLES.
which various vegetables will cook is approximated in
the table here given; but the true, and only safe, rule
is to test them occasionally during the process of
cooking
TIME TABLE
Giving the approximate length of time required for
cooking different vegetables :
30 MINUTES.-Asparagus, corn, macaroni, mush-
rooms, peas, boiled potatoes, tomatoes, lettuce.
45 MINUTES.—Young beets, carrots, parsnips, tur-
nips, baked potatoes, rice.
ONE HOUR.-Artichokes, new cabbage, string beans,
brussels sprouts, cauliflower, greens, salsify, new onions,
winter squash.
Two Hours. —Winter cabbage, carrots, parsnips,
turnips and onions.
THREE TO Five HOURS.-Old beets.
FIVE TO Eight Hours.—Dried beans, dried peas,
hominy, etc.
The flavor of vegetables can be very perfectly devel-
oped by the addition of suitable condiments, at the
proper stage of their preparation for the table, and
may, by judicious seasoning be modified to suit every
taste.
Melted butter, drawn butter, clear sauce, white
sauce, brown sauce, tomato sauce, and several salad
dressings are appropriate for serving with different veg-
etables, or with the same vegetable prepared in differ-
ent ways, and sugar, lemon juice, vinegar, salt, pepper


VEGETABLES.
BROWN SAUCE.
Cook together one ounce of flour and two ounces of
butter, stirring constantly, until a dark brown, add a
pint of cold water or broth, cook, and season to taste
with salt and pepper. By browning meat and making
it into broth, a rich coloring can be obtained for brown
sauce.
TOMATO SAUCH.
Stew a quart of tomatoes in a pint of any simple
broth, or in their own juice, until very soft, rub through
a sieve, and season to taste with salt and red pepper.
If too acid, add a quarter of a teaspooonful of sugar.
FRENCH SALAD DRESSING.
To a half teaspoonful of made mustard add olive
oil, stirring constantly until thick; then thin by adding
vinegar in like manner; and thus alternate until the
required quantity is obtained, when season to taste
with salt and pepper. A French dressing, without
mustard, is made by mixing together four teaspoonfuls
of vinegar, half a teaspoonful of salt and one-eighth
of a teaspoonful of pepper, and when used, adding
olive oil.
CREAM DRESSING.
Couk together, two minutes, an ounce each of flour
and butter, add a pint of sweet cream, and season
with salt and pepper.


COOKERY MANUAL.
COOKED MAYONNAISE DRESSING.
To each table spoonful of boiling vinegar used,
add the well beaten yolk of an egg, and cook in a bowl
set in a pan of boiling water, till stiff. Remove from
the fire, add an ounce of butter, and stir until cool and
perfectly stiff. After it becomes cold season with salt,
pepper and mustard, and thin to the required consis-
tency with sweet cream.
VEGETABLES.
ARTICHOKB SALAD.
There are two kinds of artichokes-the Jerusalem
and the Globe-both of which are occasionally served
as salads. The former is a tuber, similar in appear-
ance to a potato, and the latter a plant resembling a
thistle, with a large scaly head, the under part only of
which is edible. When eaten raw they are dressed
according to taste, with melted butter or oil, and salt,
pepper, mustard, vinegar, etc.
BOILED ARTICHOKES.
Wash and scrape Jerusalem artichokes, boil till ten-
der, drain, and serve with drawn butter or white sauce,
or mash fine and season with salt and pepper.


COOKERY MANUAL.
ASPARAGOS PUDDING.
Mix together half a pint of asparagus peas, four
eggs, a table spoonful of finely minced ham, an ounce
of butter, two table spoonfuls of flour, and milk suffi-
cient to make a thick batter. Pour into a buttered
pudding mould, steam two hours, and serve with drawn
butter.
BOILED BEETS.
Wash, boil till tender, rub off the skin, slice and sea-
son with salt, pepper and melted butter.
STEWED BEETS.
Wash, parboil, rub off the skin, cut in slices, put in
a stew pan, cover with milk, add a lump of butter
rolled in flour, simmer till tender, and season with salt
and pepper.
BAKED BEETS.
Bake in a moderate oven till tender, rub off the
skins, baste with melted butter and lemon juice, put in
the oven a few minutes, and serve hot.
BEET SALAD.
Mix equal quantities of boiled sliced beet and boiled
sliced potato, and serve with cream dressing; or mix
with onions, celery, endive and other vegetables, and
serve with a French dressing.


VEGETABLEA.
STRING BRAND
Remove the strings, put the beans in a small quan-
tity of water-just enough to cover them-simmer
gently till tender, drain, and serve with melted butter,
or white sauce. Or break in small pieces, cook in a
small quantity of water, let the water evaporate as the
beans become sufficiently cooked, then add sweet
cream, and season with salt and pepper.
SHELLED BEANS.
Put the beans in just sufficient water to cover them,
stew gently till tender, add a little sweet cream, and
season with salt and pepper; or omit the cream, and
season with salt, pepper and butter.
DRTD BEANS
Soak, put to cook in a liberal supply of cold water,
which must be poured off as soon as it boils and
enough of cold water to barely cover the beans be
added, salt lightly, cook gently until very tender, but
not falling to pieces, and season with salt, pepper and
butter; or serve with white, or brown sauce.
BAKED BEANS.
Put a piece of salt pork and a little molasses in a
bean pot, or a deep stone jar, and fill to within three
inches of the top with beans that have been boiled
until the skins will crack when exposed to cold air,


OOOKERY MANUAL.
and pour in enough of the water in which they were
cooked to cover them. Place the lid on the jar, set it
in the oven and bake from 6 to 12 hours-adding water
occasionally, if needed. The quantity of pork and
molasses can be varied to suit the taste, but the usual
proportions are a pound of pork and two table spoon-
fuls of molasses to a gallon of beans. The beans may
be enriched with a small piece of butter instead of
pork, or by adding a cup of sweet cream an hour be.
fore they finish baking.
BORBOOLI OR KALI.
Cook and serve the same as cabbage.
BRUSSELS SPROUTS.
Boil till tender, drain, put in a sauce pan with a little
melted butter, season with salt and pepper, simmer a
few minutes, and serveon buttered toast; or serve plain.
BROCOLL
Brocoli bears such a close resemblance to cauli-
flower that it can scarcely be distinguished from it.
Cook and serve in the same manner.
CAULIFLOWER
Wash, trim, boil gently until tender, drain carefully,
put in a vegetable dish and dress with drawn butter,
or white sauce. The white sauce may be flavored with
Parmesan cheese, if liked.


VEGETABLES.
BOLLED CABBAGD.
Trim, wash and divide each head into quarters or
eights boil till tender, drain, press out the water, and
serve with white sauce or drawn butter.
STEWED CABBAGE.
Slice or chop the cabbage, stew until tender, but not
soft, drain, add a little sweet cream or milk, simmer
ten minutes, and season with salt and pepper.
OOLD SLAW.
Slice crisp, firm cabbage very fine, dress with sugar,
salt and vinegar; or serve with a French, or cooked
mayonnaise dressing.
HOT SLAW.
Slice or chop cabbage fine, stew till tender, season
with salt, pepper and butter, add a little vinegar and
serve.
BOUR KROUT.
Stew in its own liquor till tender, or fry until slightly
brown, in fryings from bacon, or salt pork.
BAKED CABBAGB.
Chop boiled cabbage fine, add milk and beaten egg,
season with salt and pepper, put in a buttered baking


14
COOKERY MANUAL.
dish, cover with seasoned bread crumbs and bake
brown. Cold boiled cabbage can be used in this way
advantageously.
KOL-CANNON.
Chop boiled cabbage fine, add an equal quantity of
mashed potato, moisten with milk, season with salt
and pepper, mix together thoroughly, and serve hot.
STEWED CELERY.
Cut in inch pieces, simmer until tender in a little
water, add sweet cream, season to taste, and serve; or
pour over slices of toasted bread and serve hot.
-
- - -
-
BOILED CARBONEL
Wash, scrape, boil till tender, drain, season with but-
ter, salt and pepper; or slice, and serve with white
sauce.
STEWED CARROTS.
Parboil, drain, slice, put in a stew pan with a little
broth or milk, simmer till tender, season with salt,
pepper and chopped parsley.
FRIED CARROTS.
Parboil, slice, fry in butter till brown on both sides,
season with salt, pepper and chopped parsley. Oi


COOKERY MANUAL
OORN OYSTERS.
Split each row of kernels through the middle while
on the cob, shave off the corn in thin slices, and scrape
out the pulp and eyes. To the corn from each dozen
ears add the white of three eggs beaten to a stiff froth
and three tablespoonfuls of flour, season with salt and
pepper, and fry in spoonfuls in hot fat on a griddle, or
in a spider.
CORN FRITTERS.
Beat together till smooth and light, one teacupful of
sifted flour, one egg yolk, and half a teacupful of milk,
stir in gradually half a teacupful of milk, and two tea-
cupfuls of corn prepared as for oysters, add the white
of an egg beaten to a froth, season to taste with salt,
and fry in hot fat.
CORN PUDDING.
To a quart of corn prepared as for oysters, add a
quart of milk, four eggs, a teaspoonful of salt and a
little pepper. Mix well together, pour into a buttered
dish, and bake.
CRESS.
The various cresses are usually eaten raw, and
dressed according to individual taste. Mixed with let-
tuce and other salad plants they give them an agree-
ble pungency.


COOKERY MANUAL.
BROILED MUSHROOMS.
Place in a wire gridiron, broil over a clear fire, lay on
a hot dish, and season with salt, pepper, butter and
lemon juice.
MACARONI.
Macaroni is composed of wheat flour and water, and
is simply paste or dough pressed into shape and dried ;
but it occupies the anomalous position of being gene-
rally classed among vegetables. It is easily prepared
for the table, makes a palatable, nutritious and inex-
pensive dish, and should be more generally used.
BOILED MACARONI.
Break in pieces two or three inches in length, boil till
tender enough to be easily mashed with the fingers,
drain in a colander and serve with drawn butter, or
with white, brown, tomato, or any other sauce.
BAKED MACARONI.
Boil, drain, put in a shallow baking dish, season to
taste with salt and pepper, add a little sweet cream or
milk, and a lump of butter, cover thickly with grated
cheese, sprinkle with seasoned bread crumbs, and bake
in a quick oven till nicely browned.
STEWED MACARONI.
Boil, drain, stew in cream, milk or broth, season to
taste, and serve ; or serve with any kind of sauce.


VEGETABLES.
MACARONI PUDDING.
Mince together equal portions of boiled chicken and
boiled ham, add beaten egg, sweet cream and grated
cheese, season with salt and pepper, mix with boiled
macaroni, put into a buttered pudding mold, cover
closely and simmer in boiling water about an hour;
or put in a baking dish and bake in the oven. Serve
with any sauce liked.
STEWED OKRA.
Wash and slice the pods, simmer in a little water or
broth till tender, and season with salt, pepper and
butter.
BOILED ONIONS.
Peel, boil till tender, drain, season with salt, pepper
and butter.
STEWED ONIONS.
Peel, boil half an hour, drain, cover with milk, stew
until tender, drain, mash or chop, add a little cream,
stir until thoroughly heated, season with salt and pep.
per and serve. Or when cooked tender and drained
dress and serve whole.
BAKED ONIONS.
Peel, boil till tender, roll each onion in tissue paper,
bake an hour in a moderate oven, remove the parar,
þrown the onions, and serve with drawn butter.


000KERY MANUAL.
SOOLLOPED ONIONS.
Peel, boil till tender, drain, divide each onion into
several pieces, place in a baking dish with alternate
layers of seasoned bread crumbs, moisten with milk
and bake a nice brown.
GLAZED ONIONS.
Peel, slice, put in a baking dish, moisten with brown
sauce, or any well seasoned broth, and brown in the
oven.
BARATOGA ONIONS.
Peel, slice thin, drop in smoking hot fat, fry till a
light brown, drain in a colander, and serve hot.
FRIED ONIONS.
Peel, slice, put in a frying pan containing a small
quantity of hot butter or drippings, cover, and fry
slowly, turning them over frequently to prevent burn-
ing. When tender, and a light brown color, season
with salt and pepper, and serve.
PARSLEY.
For flavoring soups, stews, etc., parsley can be
minced and sprinkled in them while cooking. For
garnishing it can be used raw, or can be put in a wire
basket, plunged in not oil or fat for a minute, drained,
and then used.


VEGETABLES.
PUMPKIN.
The old familiar pumpkin is cooked and served in
every respect like the winter squash, which is so much
drier, sweeter and finer grained, that it has nearly su-
perseded it for table use.
BOILED PARSNIPS.
Wash, boil till tender, drain, cut in slices and serve
with drawn butter, or with a white sauce, to which a
little vinegar or lemon juice has been added.
STEWED PARSNIPS.
Wash, scrape, cut in pieces, stew tender, drain, press
out the water, mash fine, season to taste, add a little
cream or milk, and stir over the fire about five minutes
BROWNED PARSNIP.
Wash, scrape, boil till tender, drain, roll in flour, and
brown in drippings or butter, in the oven.
FRIED PARSNIP.
Wash, scrape, boil, drain, mash, season to taste, make
into cakes and fry brown.
PARSNIP FRITTERS.
Mash two or three boiled parsnips, add a well beaten
egg, two tablespoonfuls of milk, one tablespoonful of


000KERY MANUAL
flour, season to taste, drop by spoonfuls in a little hot
butter and fry brown.
BOILED PRAS.
Shell the peas, tie in a muslin bag, simmer till ten-
der and season with salt, pepper and butter.
STEWED PBAS.
Shell, put in a small quantity of boiling water, cover
closely, and simmer until tender. Add sweet cream,
a lump of butter rolled in flour, and season with salt
and pepper.
PRAS PUDDING.
Soak dried peas several hours in cold water, tie
loosely in a bag, boil till tender, rub through a sieve,
add half a pint of cream and two beaten eggs, to each
pint of peas, season to taste, tie up in a floured pud
ding bag, boil half an hour, and serve with melted but-
ter, or white sauce.
BAKED POTATORE.
Wash, wipe, put in a moderately hot oven and sub-
ject to a gradually increasing heat until perfectly baked,
then crack, place in a dish, leave uncovered, and serve
hot. The starch in potatoes absorbs moisture when
the cells are ruptured by heat, and unless baked or
roasted potatoes are broken as soon as cooked, so the


VEGETABLER.
28
steam can escape, they become watery and dark col-
ored, and lose their flavor.
GERMAN POTATOES.
Scoop out, and mash the flesh of partly baked pota-
toes, mix with finely minced meat, season to taste, re-
place in the scooped-out skins, put in the oven and
bake.
STUFFED POTATOES.
Scoop out and mash the flesh when partly baked,
toix with grated cheese, bread crumbs and any other
ingredients desired, season to taste, replace in the
scooped-out shells and bake.
BROWNED POTATOES.
Pare, parboil, lay in the pan containing a fowl, or
roast of meat, and turn over occasionally while cook-
ing, so they may brown evenly.
KENTUCKY POTATOES.
Pare, slice, put in layers in a baking dish, moister.
with milk or cream, season with salt and pepper and
bake in a quick oven.
Vary the liquid and seasoning used in preparing po-
tatoes according to this formula, and each variation will
produce a different dish that can, without impropriety,
be named after any State in the Union.


000KERY MANUAL.
POTATOES A LA ROYAL
Cut potatoes in balls, parboil, brown in the oven, and
serve hot.
Cut in other shapes, parboil, and brown in the same
way, and they may be dignified with other pretentious
titles.
BOILAD POTATORS.
Simmer gently and without interruption, whether
pared or unpared, until tender enough to be pierced
with a straw, drain, cover with a folded towel and set
to dry off, where they will keep hot.
SCOOPED POTATOES.
Cut balls from pared potatoes with a vegetable scoop,
boil and serve plain, or with any sauce desired. Old
potatoes treated in this way, and served with a white
sauce are often imposed upon unsuspecting guests as
new potatoes.
STHAMED POTATOM.
Put the potatoes, whether pared or unpared, in a
steamer, cover closely, set over a pot of boiling water,
and cook till tender.
STEWED POTATONA
Slice pared potatoes, stew gently till tender, drain
and serve with white or other sauce ; or when drained,


THAITABLEI.
add a little cream or milk, season with salt, pepper and
minced parsley, simmer a few minutes and serve.
ARATOGA POTATOES.
Pare, slice thin, soak in cold water, drain in a colan-
der, dry thoroughly in towels, separate the slices, drop
a few at a time into a kettle of hot lard, fry till a light
brown, lift with a skimmer, drain on a sieve, sprinkle
with salt, and serve hot or cold, as preferred.
JULIENNE POTATOES.
Slice with a crimped, instead of a plain or common,
knife, and fry the same as Saratoga potatoes.
POTATOES A LA FRANCAIS.
Cut with a scoop or spoon, and fry in a quantity of
hot grease.
PARISIENNB POTATOKA.
Cut with a spoon, fry in hot grease and sprinkle with
salt and minced parsley.
FRIED POTATOES.
Pared potatoes cut in slices and strips, or in rhom-
boidal, globular, angular and other irregular shapes and
cooked in hot fat are served as Saratoga, Julienne,
Parisienne, etc., etc., but however varied the style, and


COOLERT MANUAL
however fanciful the name under which they are made
to do duty, they are simply-fried potatoes; and the
secret of frying potatoes successfully-in whatever
shape sliced, or by whatever name dignified-is to have
the lard, oil or drippings at the proper temperature
when they are put into it, and to keep it so during the
entire process of cooking,
BROILED POTATOES.
Parboil, cut in tolerably thick slices, put in a wire
gridiron, broil a nice brown on both sides, and season
with salt, pepper and melted butter.
CRISPED POTATOES.
Boil in their skins, peel, place whole in a gridiron,
crisp thoroughly over the fire, and serve hot.
MASHID POTATO.
Pare, boil or steam till tender, drain, dry off, mash
fine in a warm pan or kettle, moisten, to the consis-
tency liked, with hot milk, season with salt, pepper and
butter, then beat very light with a wooden spoon or wire
mashut, and serve hot. Be careful to mash the potato
till very smooth before, and to beat it till very light
after, the seasoning is added.
POTATO SNOW.
Pare, boil, rub through a colander, allow the curly
strings to pile up on a heated dish in a spowy mass,
and serve bot.


VEGETABLES.
DUCHESSE POTATO.
Boil, mash, season to taste, add beaten egg, work
well, roll out flat, cut in narrow strips two or three
inches in length, or squeeze through a pastry bag in
shape of lady fingers, and brown in the oven.
CASSEROLE OF POTATOES.
Form an oval pile of mashed potato on a dish, make
a hole in the centre the size desired, brush the surface
with beaten egg yolk, set in a hot oven till nicely
browned, fill the hole with stewed tomatoes, macaroni,
or with ragout or stew of any kind, and serve hot.
POTATO CROQUETTES.
Enrich mashed potato with beaten egg yolk, season
with salt, pepper, lemon peel, nutmeg, mace or other
spices, form into balls or rolls, dip in beaten egg and
bread crumbs and fry in hot grease.
8COLLOPED POTATO.
Fill buttered shells or patty pans with seasoned
mashed potato, cover the surface with bread crumbs
moistened with butter, and brown in a quick oven.
POTATO PUFFS.
Stir together a cup of milk, two cups of mashed po
tato, two well beaten eggs, two tablespoonfuls of butter


80
: COOKERY MANUAL.
·
and a little salt, pour into a buttered baking dish, and
bake in a quick oven.
POTATO FRITTERS.
To a pint of milk and the yolks of three eggs beaten
well together, stir a half a dozen medium sized boiled
potatoes grated or finely mashed, and four enough to
make a batter the proper consistency. Add a pinch of
salt and the beaten whites of the eggs, and fry in hot
grease.
POTATO SOOTTLA.
Put a quart of mashed potato with a little butter, in
a stew pan over the fire, season to taste, add gradually
half a pint of milk and the beaten yolks of two eggs,
stir until the mixture begins to thicken, remove from
the fire, add the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff
froth, pour into a baking dish, smooth the surface and
bake in a quick oven.
POTATO BISCUIT.
Add a cup of milk and half a teaspoonful of salt to a
quart of mashed potato, work in four until the dough
is sufficiently consistent to roll out and cut into biscuit.
Bake on a griddle or floured pan. Or a tablespoonful
of yeast can be added, the dough set to rise, and when
light it can be shaped into biscuit or rolls and baked
in the oven.


OOOKERY VANUAL.
POTATO BALLS.
Enrich cold mashed potato with egg yolk, make into
balls, dip in beaten egg, roll in corn meal or bread
crumbs, and brown in a quick oven; or shape into
cakes and fry in a little hot fat.
,
TO STEW COLD POTATO.
Slice cold boiled potato, put in a stew pan with cold
gravy or milk, season with salt and pepper, and simmer
till thoroughly heated.
TO FRY COLD POTATO.
Slice cold boiled potato, dredge lightly with flour, and
fry brown; or fry without dredging. Or hash fine, sea-
son with salt and pepper, and fry brown.
POTATO HASE.
Heat together in a stew pan, a spoonful of butter
and a teacupful of milk seasoned with salt and pepper
add cold hashed potato, cover closely and simmer
gently till well heated.
SWEET POTATORI.
Sweet potatoes are much dryer and nicer steamed
than boiled, but are at their best estate only, when
baked. They can, however, be prepared very accept-
ably, in many of the ways in which white potatoes are
cooked and served. They should be cooked in their
skins.


84
COOKERY MANUAL.
·
sauce; or mash fine, season to taste, add a little cream
and serve.
FRIED BALSIFY.
Boil, drain, mash fine, season to taste, add a spoon-
ful of cream and a well beaten egg, make into small
cakes and brown on a griddle, or fry in hot fat.
SCALLOPED SALSIFY.
Boil, drain, cut in slices, put in a baking dish with
alternate layers of seasoned bread crumbs, moisten with
milk and bake brown.
BALSIFY TOAST.
Slice, stew tender in milk, season with salt and pep-
per, stir in two well beaten eggs, and pour over slices
of hot buttered toast.
BEA KALE
Cook and serve the same as asparagus.
BOILED TURNIPS.
Wash, pare, boil till tender, drain in a colander, press
out the water, mash fine, season with salt, pepper and
butter, serve hot. Or cut in slices and serve with
cream sauce, or with drawn butter to which vinegar or
lemon juice has been added till slightly acid.


VEGETABLES.
STEWED TURNIPS.
Wash, pare, boil fifteen minutes, drain, add a pint of
milk to each quart of turnips, simmer till tender and
serve with salt and pepper.
BAKED TURNIPS.
Wash, pare, boil half an hour, cut in thin slices, lay
in a buttered pudding dish, sprinkle with seasoned
bread crumbs, moisten with milk and bake in the oven
until a rich brown.
TOMATO SALAD.
Peel and slice perfectly ripe tomatoes, arrange in a
dish, set on ice or in a cold place, and serve plain, or
with cream, French, or Mayonnaise dressing. Or
arrange on a dish with alternate layers of sliced onions,
and serve with French dressing.
STEWED TOMATOES.
Peel, slice, stew until very soft, and season with salt.
pepper and butter. Or cream may be substituted for
butter, and a delicate flavoring of mace or nutmeg, if
liked, can be added. Simple broth or stock of any
kind may be used for stewing tomatoes, and a small
quantity of onion added for flavoring. The stew may
also be thickened, if desired, by the addition of bread
crumbs, boiled rice, macaroni, corn starch or flour.
TE


VEGETABLES.
BROILED TOMATOR
Slice unpceled tomatoes, dip in olive oil or melted
butter, then in flour or fine bread crumbs, place in a
wire broiler and cook quickly.
TRICASSID TOMATOMA
Slice, fry a nice brown in butter, and lift to a warm
plate. Pour a little sweet cream in the frying pan,
season with salt and pepper, and turn boiling hot over
the tomatoes.
BOILID SQUASE.
Pare, remove the seeds, cut into pieces suitable for
serving, put in a covered vessel with a small quantity
of boiling water, simmer gently until tender, serve with
melted butter, white sauce, or brown sauce; or dry off,
mash fine, and season with salt, pepper and butter.
STIAXTD SQUASH
Cut in halves, remove the seeds, steam until tender,
scoop out of the skin, and season to taste.
BACTD SQUARE
Cut in two or more pieces, scrape out the seeds, put
in a pan, skin side down, bake and serve with butter;
or scoop out of the skin, and season with salt and
pepper.


SUPPLEMENTARY SUGGESTIONS,
Most vegetables can be prepared for the table in a
variety of ways; and in a majority of cases, a large
number belonging to a special class, can be cooked and
served according to the recipes applicable to the prep-
aration of any single vegetable of that class.
By a judicious admixture of two or more vegetables
many dishes may be formed that possess characteristics
peculiar only to such combinations, and of which the
different vegetables composing them are destitute
when served separately.
Simmering in broth or plain stock improves the Ala-
vor of some vegetables, and “pot liquor." or the water
in which ham, pork, corned beef and other salt meats
have been boiled, when freed from grease, may be used
for cooking vegetables in, if prefered to clear water,
Cooked vegetables need never be thrown away or
wasted. They should all be saved and utilized. By
skillful re-warming they can be converted into number-
less dishes that are attractive and appetizing, and in
their preparation can be so varied as to suit almost
every taste and fancy.


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