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FOOD FOR THE INVALID
THE CONVALESCENT
THE DYSPEPTIC
AND THE GOUTY
BY
J. MILNER FOTHERGILL, M.D., EDIN.
PHYSICIAN TO THE CITY OF LONDON HOSPITAL FOR DISEASES OF THE CHEST (VICTORIA PARK)
HON. M.D. RUSH COLLEGE, ILL.
ASSOCIATE FELLOW OF THE COLLEGE OF PHYSICIANS OF PHILADELPHIA
66 May good digestion wait on appetite; and health on both”
London
MACMILLAN AND CO.
AND NEW YORK
1894
The Right of Translation and Reproduction is Reserved
LV


TO
THE SHADE OF EDWARD GIBBON,
The Historian
WHOSE GASTRONOMIC PROCLIVITIES
HAVE PRESERVED FOR US THE FEASTS OF ANCIENT ROME,
THIS WORK
Is Dedicated
BY
TIE AUTHOR.
41X12 81


PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION.
The publication of this little book has been justified
by the demand for it. From the classes for which it is
specially designed it has received a welcome; while in
families unfamiliar with sickness it has been found very
useful when a member thereof has been seized with
illness.
110, PARK STREET,
CROSVENOR SQUARE, W.,
1884.


PREFACE TO FIRST EDITION:
This little book came into the world rather oddly.
Speaking to Mr Macmillan one day about printing a
pamphlet on “Food for Invalids,” for private use,
he suggested that it had better take the form of a
book : if such a thing were useful to me it would be
useful to others ! Busy practitioners will probably
find it very useful, and save them much time to boot.
Invalids and their friends will also, in all probability,
find it of service to them ; as the initials attached to
each article of food will guide them in their choice.
A few preliminary remarks on food and its destina-
tion and on digestion, add, it is believed, to its
general utility. I have to thank Dr. H. C. Wood, of
Philadelphia, for his co-operation.
1880.


CONTENTS.
INTRODUCTION
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.
.
ALID IN B
NURSERY FOOD
...................
OF FOOD GENERALLY
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26
RECIPES.
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. . . .
29
APPENDICES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
151
INDEX
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. . .
. . .
161





FOOD FOR THE INVALID,
The Convalescent, the Dyspeptic, and the Gouty.
INTRODUCTION.
The attention now paid to our food is not a mere
fashion. Our increasing wealth permits of organisms
being reared to maturity which must have perished
under earlier and more trying conditions. It also leads
to much of what is either biliousness or gout, as the
case may be, viz., conditions where the system is taxed
by the accumulation of waste matter derived from the
albuminoids of our food. What are albuminoids we
shall shortly see! The excessive demand upon the
nervous system in the battle of modern life is leading
to much visceral disturbance, of which dyspepsia is
only a part; and we are beginning to learn to see that
derangement of the liver and of the kidneys is a not
uncommon outcome of mental worry. The relations of
mental worry to diabetes are well and generally recog-
nised. Then, again, there is a growing incapacity to
39


FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
digest fat which is truly alarming, and which has given
a distinct prominence to artificial digestive agents.
Beyond all this there is the effect of illness and acute
disease upon the digestion to be considered and taken
into account. Consequently there is a distinct necessity
for a book devoted to the food for persons who are out
of health, or whose digestive powers are feeble. How
far the writer is competent to write such a book it is
for the readers to decide; but the subject of food is
necessarily one which attracts the attention of all who
are specially devoted to that division of medicine, viz.,
the treatment of disease. By a suitable dietary many
maladies may be avoided; by appropriate food many
troubles, as indigestion, biliousness, gout, and diabetes,
may be greatly alleviated, and in a number of cases
even cured. An immense amount of human misery is
due to an unsuitable dietary. Time has sanctioned our
present eating arrangements, and it is almost impiety in
the eyes of many to impugn our existing culinary com:
binations. The ghosts of many devoted cooks, who
have given themselves heart and soul to the task of
providing what is attractive and toothsome, still hover
around us; and must be treated with respect. I do not
wish to say one word that would give offence to these
departed worthies, whose devotion and abandon have
earned for them imperishable reputations, and the grati-
tude of hungry humanity. But it is just possible to
suggest that their guides were the palate first and the
digestion next. They lived in twilight; and the day-
break of physiological knowledge is doubtless disturb-
ing to them. The light of chemistry and physiology is
causing a flutter among them. Our food-combinations


INTRODUCTION.
now are to be indicated by our advancing knowledge of
the wants of the organism, the requirements of the tissues,
and the effects of modern life upon the viscera. Our
dietaries, in other words, must become more scientific.
In the present transition state of our information
about food in relation to the needs of the body, it is
necessary to select from our extant cookery-books what
is required, so far as is possible. That is no easy task
to essay: but a beginning must be made, and errors
and omissions may be corrected and amended in future
editions, and perhaps by other writers. It is impossible
to appraise correctly and with any approach to accuracy
the amount of information possessed by each reader; so
it appears that the most prudent course is to write as if
the subject were new to all: if in so doing any umbrage
is given to those who do know something about food, an
apology is tendered to them at the outset.
For what do we require food? (1) In order to
maintain the body temperature, or to manifest force,
i.e. to exert ourselves in work or other form of muscular
activity ; (2) and to build up our tissues in growth, and
repair them in adult life. For these ends different
forms of food are required. Just as there is in a
steam-engine the metal framework and the coals which
heat the water into steam which sets the metal machine
into motion; so there are in the body the tissues and
the fuel. The bony framework, the skeleton, is moved
by muscles, which in turn are set in action by the
nerves. These correspond to the metallic portions of
the engine, which are not themselves consumed, but
wear out and need repair. The fuel of the body, like
that of the steam-engine, is hydrocarbonaceous. That
B 2


FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
is, it consists of hydrogen and carbon, which readily
unite with oxygen. This is the fuel of the body par
excellence.
The vegetable world builds up these hydrocarbons ;
the animal world burns them by oxidation. Animals
produce carbonic acid gas, as the result of the com-
bustion of their food ; vegetables deoxidise this carbonic
acid and store up carbonaceous material, and give off
free oxygen. At an early period of the earth's history
the atmosphere was highly charged with carbonic acid
gas. A luxuriant vegetable growth cleared the air of
carbonic acid gas till a warm-blooded animal became a
possibility. The vegetable world is practically without
motion; but it stores up the material which renders
motion in animals possible. And thus they live side
by side with each other; one could not live without
the other. The animal could manifest no force without
oxygen ; without the animal to produce carbonic acid
the vegetable world would perish. Then from water
is derived the hydrogen compounds. Just as the plant
takes the carbon of carbonic acid and gives off the
oxygen; so it takes the hydrogen of water and gives off
the oxygen. From these two-carbon and hydrogen-
are built up starch, sugar, and fat. These then are
the hydrocarbonaceous elements which essentially con-
stitute our food—the equivalent of the coal in the
steam-engine.
Then there are the tissues of the body. The essential
feature in the tissues of the body is that they contain
nitrogen. Liebig told us that the peculiarity of nitrogen
is that, when in combination with other elements, it
interferes with their capacity to unite with oxygen.


FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
gherkins of the Continent were of cardinal importance
before the introduction of the potato dethroned them,
and left them on a lower platform of utility.
There are, too, spices and condiments which are
agreeable to the palate ; which keep up the appetite, and
prevent too much disengagement of gas in the alimen-
tary canal during the processes of digestion and assimi-
lation. Such then are the chief constituents of our
food. We can now trace them along in their career in
the body. Hydrocarbons are quickly disposed of; a
certain surplusage being stored up as fat, on which the
body can live in times of starvation. The average
amount of this garnered store is equal to about ten
days' combustion : i.e. the body can live ten days upon
itself. Starch is converted by the action of the saliva
and the juice of the pancreas (the sweetbread) into
sugar, and is stored up from each meal in the liver as
glycogen. Glycogen is an insoluble form of sugar,
which is given off gradually according to the body re-
quirements, from the liver; and burnt to maintain the
body temperature and to generate force. Fat is burnt in
precisely the same way; and is a very concentrated
form of fuel. In very cold regions large quantities of
fat are required to maintain a body temperature com-
patible with life. Fat is found as fat, butter, and oil.
These hydrocarbons are, then, the fuel of the body par
excellence. They are, however, also essential to healthy
tissues; and a deficiency of fat is one factor in the pro-
duction of the depraved form of tissue known as tubercle.
The most dangerous and intractable form of phthisis is
that which commences with a loss of the power to
digest fat.


INTRODUCTION.
Then there are the albuminoid or nitrogenised
divisions of our food. These are requisite for tissue
growth and repair; but in their oxidation a certain
amount of heat is produced. Albumen is found largely
in the vegetable world. All seeds contain albumen.
The white of all eggs, (birds, reptiles, and fishes), is very
pure albumen. Albumen contains carbon, hydrogen,
some oxygen, and its essential characteristic, nitrogen,
with a little sulphur. It is found in various forms as
albumen; as caseine in milk, cheese, and the legumes ;
as the muscular portions of the animal framework, the
viscera, and the skin. It is a complex substance
chemically. When swallowed, albuminoids are digested
in the stomach mainly, and pass into the blood, from
whence they reach the tissues. As said before, these
albuminoid substances containing nitrogen do not
readily oxidise. The liver is the furnace in which
waste and surplus albuminoids are burnt by oxidation.
When sufficiently oxidised, they give the bile acids,
and the solids of the urine (not being salts) as lithates
and urea. Now it is the imperfect oxidation of this
albuminoid surplusage which produces biliousness and
gout, i.e. gout in its widest sense, viz. a waste-laden
condition of blood, more properly described by the word
lithiasis. Gout, a term once used to designate a disease
of the joints, has now a much wider range of applica-
tion; and, as “irregular” and “suppressed” gout, has
come to be used, in its broad sense, to indicate a
condition of the blood. In biliousness the blood is
surcharged with bile-salts, of albuminoid descent and
nitrogenised lineage; just as much as the lithic acid, or
lithates, which are known and spoken of now as “gout-


INTRODUCTION.
Meg Merrilees had compelled him to eat some of the
contents of her stew-pot; and Liebig compares the
mental attitude of three persons-one of whom has had
a substantial meal of meat; a second who has dined
on fish; and the third who has had some bread and an
onion. The beef of the British warrior has always been
counted as an element in his bravery. There are, then,
two very potent reasons why we eat too much albu-
minous food; one, because it is pleasant to eat, and,
another, because it produces an agreeable mental con-
dition. But when we have “ too much of a good
thing," and the blood is surcharged with waste, then the
mental attitude is unpleasantly affected; there is the
irascibility of gout, which is not merely the effect of
pain; and the melancholy of biliousness. Melancholia
is “ black-bile," and preserves the fossil idea of low
spirits being due to “ bile-poison" in the blood. This is
true, so far as it goes, but melancholy, or the condition
of " low spirits," is not due solely to “ bile poison.”
Probably the following disquisition is a little over
the heads of some readers, but it cannot be omitted.
Without it the whole of the attempt to make our
cookery-books more scientific would end in nothing.
The necessity for more accurate knowledge on this
subject is seen in the irrational practice which obtains
in the sick-room. A generation ago a sick person
would have been regarded as strangely neglected if
calf's foot jelly had not been provided ; now the patient
must be dosed with beef-tea, the stronger and more
concentrated the better : and yet neither has a high
food-value. In fact, there is little force-producing
material (hydrocarbon) in either. Twenty years ago


FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
3
containing nitrogen and also sulphur. All evidently
derivatives from albumen. The forms in which waste
albuminoids pass out by the renal secretion are as uric
acid and urea. Uric acid has a formula
CH.NO
This is what is recognised as “gout poison.” It is
found in the body in union with soda, magnesia, and
animonia; and as urate of soda is the material of the
chalk-stones found in the joints of the gouty and on the
ears. The more advanced and more oxidised form of
waste is the more soluble urea, which has a formula
(N.H,),00.
These renal solids are admitted to be of albuminoid
descent by all; but our accurate information about the
liver is of too recent a date for even the bulk of the pro-
fession, to say nothing of the laity, to be acquainted with
the bile acids which are found in union with soda.
This disquisition may perhaps not be interesting to
the bulk of readers, but there are a number who will
appreciate it. With a large number of persons the
avoidance of these albuminoid elements is a matter of
cardinal importance. It is with the intent of avoiding
excessive albuminoid waste that the dietaries arranged
here consist so little of “brown meats.” When the
convalescent has got so far that he can eat and digest
a beefsteak with oyster sauce, he is clearly off the sick-
list; and the fare of ordinary cookery-books once more
interests him. For a certain period, however, he is.
safer with the articles given here, as being more easily
digestible. It is not contended that in chemical


INTRODUCTION.
13
composition the flesh of fish differs from that of beasts;
it is a question of degree. A meal of fish gives less
albuminoid waste than necessarily results from a
meal of brown meats. Fish is much more largely
water than “flesh.” The amount of albuminoid matter
required for the repair of the tissues of the body, to
meet daily wear and tear, is very small. Physiologists
have not yet determined it with any approach to ac-
curacy ; but it is certain enough that it does not neces-
sitate anything like the amount of meat which is con-
sumed by most persons. Where the system has been
much reduced by acute disease, as fever, then a liberal
dietary is required for the rebuilding of the tissues. The
appetite is ravenous and the digestion good. Just as
children when rapidly growing require a dietary in
which meat is conspicuous; so the convalescent from
fever must have a dietary rich in albuininoids, in order
to repair the wasted tissues. But, except under these
circumstar.ces, our food is rich in albuminoids beyond our
absolute wants. This is a matter of primary importance,
and which is never forgotten in the selection of the forms
of food given hereafter.
Then as to the question of digestion. In the stomach
albuminoids alone undergo digestion. If surrounded by
too much fat the digestion of albuminoids is interfered
with. Consequently the dyspeptic must avoid many
dishes given here, which are admirably adapted for a
gouty person with a good digestion. For good digestion
mastication is essential. If persons "bolt” their food,
or from want of teeth cannot properly masticate it, then
indigestion follows; because the food is not in a proper
state for solution when it reaches the stomach. The


FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
stomach of man does not, like that of the lobster tribe,
contain teeth, and so cannot grind and pull to pieces
the food. If this disintegration has not been accom-
plished the stomach is unequal to perfect digestion, and
the digestive act is slow and painful. Brown meats are
close of fibre, and the fibres are not readily separated,
a matter of moment in the digestive act. If the fibres
readily fall asunder, then the dissolving action of the
gastric juice is favoured; but if the meat is in masses,
it can only act upon the outer surface. In dieting the
dyspeptic this merely mechanical matter should ever be
borne in mind. The same fact obtains about wheaten
bread. The albuminoid matter of wheat is chiefly in
the form of gluten, which when separated from the rest
of the flour is a sticky substance. “The grain of wheat
differs from that of the other cereals principally in the
peculiar physical characters possessed by its chief nitro-
genous constituents, and especially gluten, possessing in
the moist state strongly adhesive properties. These are
found to be practically of great value in bread-making,
causing the dough to retain more strongly the carbonic
acid evolved during fermentation, whereby the bread is
rendered porous and light; and this is one of the chief
reasons why the flour of wheat is preferred for bread-
making to that of all other grains.”—(Food and its
Adulterations, by Arthur Hill Hassall.) It is this ad-
hesive quality which gives trouble to the dyspeptic
about wheaten bread. It does not fall readily to pieces
in the stomach. Especially is this a source of trouble
to babies; and most “ baby-foods” consist mainly of
baked flour. After once being cooked and then again
being reduced to a finely divided form, wheat flour


INTRODUCTION.
15
changed, and the particles do not adhere together
as before.
A lady friend of mine who cannot digest with comfort
a suet pudding as ordinarily prepared, can enjoy that
suet pudding when her cook has mixed a number of
fine bread-crumbs into the flour. The delicate stomach
of the infant, adapted to the digestion of milk, which,
while it curdles in the stomach, in health, rapidly dis-
solves again, is unequal to the violent movements set
up by particles which do not readily dissolve. The
infant cries with the pain of the digestive act when
ordinary bread is put into its milk; it crows with
delight when a properly prepared flour is digesting
easily. For nursery purposes oatmeal and maize flour
are preferred, because they do not contain this adhesive
gluten. The mixture of maize flour with wheaten flour
is then clearly indicated for nursery purposes; and for
pastry for those whose digestion is not strong.
The action of the saliva upon starch is to quickly
convert it into sugar. Consequently, as sugar is soluble,
this leaves the nitrogenised portion of the flour to be
readily acted upon in the stomach. When the saliva is
defective in an infant, or, at least, insufficient to pro-
duce the conversion of starch into sugar, it is now
customary to give the infant "malt-extract,” a sweet
molasses sort of thing which can be added to the
baby's food a brief period before it has to be taken, for
the conversion is quick. The starch being thus largely
converted into sugar, the digestive act in the stomach
goes on without painful efforts. The treatment of
dyspepsia in adults is carried out on precisely the same


INTRODUCTION.
action, in which case it is necessary to bear in mind
what has just been said above, and the food should be
such as to necessitate little muscular movement of the
stomach for its disintegration. (2) Defective secretion
of gastric juice, and imperfect solvent action. In order
to remedy this state of matters it has been found con-
venient to avail ourselves of the gastric secretion of
animals; and especially the omnivorous pig. Indigestion
is not a trouble to which the pig is liable, at least so
far as we know, consequently his gastric juice is pressed
into the service of man. As pepsin we convert the
digestive powers of the pig to our purposes. Pepsin
in the presence of an acid rapidly dissolves albuminoids.
Given with an acid during the digestive act, it aids
materially in the solution of the albuminoids; and
frequently converts the digestive act from a painful to
a painless process. The conversion of albuminoids
into a soluble form is also rendered much more perfect
by the action of this artificial digestive agent,
In the dietetic management of dyspepsia it is very
important to ascertain with precision where the digestive
act is at fault. If this could always be done accurately.
the management of the case would be comparatively
easy. As it is, it is rather a sort of “educated guessing,”
and a certain amount of experiment is unavoidable in
each case.
Such, then, are the means of rendering easier the
digestive act, when imperfect, which have been in vogue
for some few years. Recent investigation into the
digestive act has led to some excellent practical results.
The pancreas, or sweet-bread, whose function until
recently was scarcely even a matter of speculation, has


18
FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
been found to hold a most important position in di-
gestion. Its secretion converts starch into sugar; it
dissolves albuminoids in an alkaline medium; and it
emulsionises fat, so that the minute particles of fat can
be taken up by the intestine. The conversion of starch
into sugar is arrested in the acid stomach ; but when
the food begins to pass out of the stomach a new
activity is set up. The stomach during the digestive
act is in active motion, rolling the food in it over and
over, and so bringing every particle more or less into
contact with the solvent gastric juice. To prevent
escape during this period the stomach is closed by two
rings, one at each outlet; one at the foot of the gullet,
the other at the intestinal orifice. This latter outlet
from the stomach is closed by the pyloric ring. When
the food in the stomach is pretty well disintegrated
and dissolved, the more fluid portions pass the partially
relaxed pyloric ring; leaving the less digested portions
to be further acted upon. At last the ring thoroughly
relaxes, and the contents of the stomach are thrust out
into the intestines.
When the contents of the stomach pass into the
intestine the alkaline bile neutralises the acid from the
stomach, and makes the food alkaline. Then the action
of the pancreas comes into play. The starch is rapidly
converted into sugar once inore; the albuminoids go
on in their conversion; the fat is emulsioned. The
digestive act is in full play all around.
It is clear, then, that imperfect action of the pancreas
is a most serious matter. It can be stimulated by
ether; a fact which has been utilised in practice. But
the great outcome of our physiological knowledge is.


FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
The digestion of fat is one of the most important
matters of our food. Not only is it a fuel-food of the
highest value, but it is also essential to proper healthy
tissue formation; not only for tissue growth, but for
tissue repair. The value of cod-liver oil in the treat-
ment of phthisis is now generally recognised; if fat
can be assimilated then the spread of the disease may
often be arrested. By the resort to cod-liver oil the
oncome of the disease is stayed. To enable the system
to digest fat is to avert many maladies. With fat and
starch the bilious are comparatively well; for neither
can produce the nitrogenised bile acids. They, however,
lead to biliousness indirectly. If a meal be taken in
excess of the needs of the body, the readily oxidisable
hydrocarbons are burnt off first in the body; as said
before, the combination of nitrogen with other elements
interferes with their oxidation. Consequently the non-
oxidisable matters are left over imperfectly oxidised ;
and that is why a rich meal renders a bilious person
“ bilious.” Sugar and fat do not furnish bile acids, but
they lead to their production indirectly.
These bile acids are useful in the emulsionising of fats;
and probably one factor in the digestibility of cod-liver
oil is that, being derived from the liver of an animal, it
contains bile elements.
Pâté de foie gras is a most digestible food as well as
toothsome, and so is the imitation form (No. 79), which
is very suitable for persons with a weak digestion, from
the liver elements present in it. The views taker
here are heretical to persons of a certain age; but they
are not contravened by that fact.
These preliminary remarks will enable the reader to


INTRODUCTION.
understand the rationale of the choice manifested in
the different forms of food to bc given in detail here-
after. It will explain why soups which are not rich in
stock are selected in preference to those that are. The
gelatinous matter of stock, though it is agreeable to the
palate, is not readily digestible, and furnishes a quantity
of the albuminoid waste which it is so desirable to avoid.
It is much better, in place of the stock, to add half-
a-pint of cream to those soups which will carry it;
and that means in nearly all cases. The impression
that the strength of meat is contained in stock is ill-
founded. What we have to aim at is to convey fuel-
food to the system, with only that amount of albuminoids
which is essential for tissue-repair.
With such preliminary remarks for the guidance of
the reader, we may now proceed to the more practical
part of the inquiry. It will be well to commence with
the invalid in bed.
THE INVALID IN BED.
The invalid in bed includes two conditions, (1) of
fever; (2) of debility. It may be well to consider the
fever patient first. Here there is much thirst to be
allayed, consequently it is well that the food be in fluid
form ; indeed, other food cannot well be taken. The first
thing is of course milk. Milk may be given plain or
with seltzer water, and may be iced. Equal parts of
milk and seltzer water form a very pleasant drink (No.
2). In typhoid fever especially, it is desirable to avoid
too great curdling of the milk, and when this occurs it


22
FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
is well to change the milk for some other fluid, or to
give it already digested' (No. 84). White wine whey
(No. 15) may be given instead. In order to prevent
the curd of milk curdling into a solid mass, it may be
well to add a little fine biscuit powder, or oatmeal, to the
milk and seltzer water (No. 2).
Then comes beef tea, now universally in vogue; as
said before, its nutritive value is very small. It may
be taken lukewarm, or cold, or iced. It is easily
made (No. 6). Too great a quantity need not be made
at once; nor is there any particular advantage to be
gained by making it so particularly good and strong,
as some persons imagine. The prevalent impressions
about beef tea show how little real knowledge exists
about our food as regards our requirements. Beef tea
is a stimulant rather than a food. A person may be
hungered to death on it. It is a pleasant, palatable,
refreshing beverage when well made. As a vehicle for
farinaceous matters, or with a teaspoonful of cream in
it, it is useful as a food. Liebig's extract, and the other
extracts, are all pleasant beverages; and may be taken
hot, lukewarm, or cold, or iced, as occasion requires, or
the taste of the patient directs. A more nutritive
material is furnished by the form No. 7, where the
water can be added warm, or, if preferred, a cold drawn
extract may be made with cold water. Preparations of
meat juice are in the market, especially Valentine's,
which are very suitable for the invalid. Then mutton
may be used (No. 8), or chicken (No. 10), or mixed
1 In order to ascertain if the milk curdles in the stomach, and does
not re-dissolve, the stools of a typhoid fever patient should be examined
(after disinfection) for any milk-curd.


24
FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
“ tick” with a pencil the different articles he wishes
the patient to have.
When the patient in bed comes under the class (2),
-debility, then any of the different articles can be
given according to the directions of the medical attend-
ant: who must always be the dictator of the situation,
and his orders and instructions should be carried out
with military obedience.
NURSERY FOOD.
This subject requires some consideration of its own,
and is one of growing importance. Up to a recent
period, oatmeal porridge and milk was the food of the
nursery par excellence; and is still so where the parents
possess good sense, and the children good digestions
-conditions which do not co-exist in every household.
Oatmeal porridge (No. 50) does not agree with every
child, and if it distinctly disagree, then something may
be substituted for it, as hominy porridge (No. 52).
Though brought up on oatmeal porridge, and having the
most affectionate remembrance of it, and still liking it,
it must be admitted that my preferences lean towards
hominy porridge. The peculiar value of oatmeal is the
amount of fat in oats. But in this respect maize stands
far ahead of it, being the richest in fat of all the
cerealia ; while it contains albuminoid matter in as
high a proportion as does wheat. Preparations of maize
are peculiarly indicated for the nursery. In another
way, Indian corn, or maize, is useful. Maize flour
alone will not make bread. It is not sufficiently"sticky”
to hold well together, consequently the admixture of


26
FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
coarse meal making a more open spongy bread, fine
meal a close compact one; some palates prefer one,
some the other variety.
The different crushed cereals now put on the market
are very toothsome and keep well. They can be procured
from the Cereals Manufacturing Co., 83, Murray Street,
New York, U.S.A., and are sold by most leading grocers.
They are already steam-cooked, and consist of “crushed
white wheat," " barley food,” “oatmeal," "maize,'
“ cereal milk,” and “cereal cream.” Directions for use
are supplied with them. Boiled with equal quantities
of milk and water so as to form porridge, they are
excellent, and can be eaten with milk, sugar and butter,
or treacle and butter.
An economical dish can be made by cracking any
bones that may be at hand, and stewing them with
rice for an hour or two. The marrow fat is very
digestible, and the bones so often wasted would, so
cooked with rice, furnish a good meal. Probably a little
pepper and salt would improve the dish.
OF FOOD GENERALLY.
In the arrangement of the bulk of this work, ordinary
cookery books are followed. But as the readers of
cookery books have nothing to guide them in the
selection of their dishes, it has been thought desirable
to provide some sort of guide. Consequently initials
are attached to all preparations after No. 43 to guide the
reader broadly. Thus “I” stands for “Invalid,” “C” for
“Convalescent,” “D” for “Dyspeptic,” “G” for “Gouty.”
and “E” for “ Economical.” But if a gouty reader be


INTRODUCTION.
27
also a dyspeptic he had better avoid the dishes marked
“G”; unless “D” also be present.
The ordinary meat dishes of family life are con-
spicuous by their absence. All dishes consisting of
meat once cooked and warmed, are to be studiously
avoided by all unless their digestion be perfect.
There is only one way of “using up” cold meat that
is (comparatively) unobjectionable, and that is—to
remove every particle of the meat, to mince this fine,
with some pepper and salt; then to place a wall of well-
mashed potato in a pie dish, or soup plate ; put in the
minced meat; then place over the meat a crust of mashed.
potato, and put in the oven till the meat is warm
through; and not one moment longer. The bones may
then be cracked and stewed with rice.
Prominence is given to sandwiches. These should
be carefully made of stale bread, cut thin; the butter
well rubbed in, so as to get it finely subdivided; then
the jam, or meat paste should be spread evenly over the
bread. Then each little sandwich should be neatly cut
in four, so as to give it the most appetising appearance,
and served up to the invalid, adult or child, in reason-
able quantity. If too great a quantity be prepared at
once, it destroys the patient's appetite: while what is
left grows stale. Invalids should always have their
food supplied in that quantity that it should be a little
short of what they can eat; so that they grumble,
and complain that they could have eaten a little more.
Too much prepared at once is bad.
Then as to these sandwiches, if so prepared with
jam, they are sufficient for a small meal, especially
if accompanied by a glass of milk.


28
FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
When patients cannot take milk then the difficulties
of feeding them are much increased. Here if the
sandwiches are prepared with potted meat, or pâté de
foie gras, and a tumblerful of beef tea for a beverage,
are given, the patient gets a fairly nutritive meal.
Then for an invalid the food should be freshly pre-
pared ; and, if possible, no more should be taken to the
sick-room than can be at once eaten.
If any remain over let it at once be taken to a cool
place, away from thc ick-room. The practice of allow-
ing food, milk, fruit, jelly, &c., to remain in a sick-
room is utterly abominable and unjustifiable. It does
not become more appetising by being looked at. It
does not improve; whilc it certainly does acquire a
taint from the atmosphere of a room.
A glass half full of milk, a tumbler half full of ice,
with a metal spoon it to help to melt it quickly; some
jelly on a saucer; some grapes, or preserved peaches
in another saucer, with the sunshine streaming in on a
summer afternoon into the sick chamber; is a painful
sight sadly too frequently witnessed. Who could have
any appetite, or wish to live under such circumstances ?
The ice should be kept down stairs, wrapped up in a
piece of flannel, and covered with sawdust: and a chip
should be cracked off it, put into the lemonade, or milk
and seltzer, or whatever it is, allowed to dissolve; and
then the whole should be taken to the patient in that
quantity that it can be swallowed at once.
Perfect cleanliness is essential to give food an ap-
petising appearance.
Ignorance in a sick-room is very objectionable, even
when combined with any amount of family affection.


RECIPES.
1.
MILK.
This should be fresh and pure: if at all stale it
should be boiled and then allowed to cool.
2.
MILK AND SELTZER WATER.
Put together equal quantities of milk and seltzer:
drink while fresh. It may be iced.
3.
MILK AND LIME WATER.
Where it is desirable to give diluted milk without
effervescence and the disengagement of gas, lime water
may be substituted for seltzer water with advantage.
Lime water is made by placing a piece of quicklime
into a gallon of water. Stir up, then let it stand,
remove the scum from the surface, and then decant for
use. It is of fixed strength.


30
FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
MILK AND LIME.
When it is desirable to have more fixed alkali, then
chalk in powder can be added : say as much as will lie
upon a sixpence to the half-pint. Stir up before
drinking
MILK AND MAGNESIA.
Where there is a necessity for a laxative, it is well to
substitute magnesia in powder for the chalk.
BEEF TEA.
Cut up a pound of lean beef into pieces the size of
dice; put it into a covered jar with two pints of cold
water and a pinch or two of salt. Let it warm gradually,
and simmer for a couple of hours, care being taken that
it does not reach the boiling point.
7.
NUTRITIOUS BEEF TEA.
To a pint of beef tea or mutton broth (not too strong)
add two tablespoonfuls of powdered biscuit, or bread
crumb; boil for five minutes, stirring well all the time.


RECIPES.
MUTTON BROTH.
Cut up one pound of lean mutton into dice, to this
put one quart of cold water, then let it simmer on the
hob for three hours : take off the scum as required, and
add a pinch of salt. Strain off the fluid, let it stand
till it is cold, then remove the fat, if any.
till it is cold, the alt. Strain off the 4s required, and
9.
VEAL BROTH.
This is prepared in the same way, using veal for
inutton.
10.
CHICKEN BROTH.
A young bird should be selected, and after disjointing
it place it in a stewpan with a quart of water and boil
two hours. Then take off the broth, let it cool, and
then skim it.
11.
BEEF TEA WITH OATMEAL.
Mix two tablespoonfuls of oatmeal very smooth with
two spoonfuls of cold water, then add a pint of strong
boiling beef tea. Boil together for five or six minutes,
stirring it well all the time. Strain it through a sieve
and serve.


32
FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
12.
MIXED MEAT TEA.
One pound of lean beef, one pound of lean veal, one
pound of lean mutton, all very fresh, and cut up into
small pieces. Put the meat into a bright stewpan, with
three pints of water, a salt-spoonful of salt, and simmer
gently, skimming often, for four hours, then strain.
Twenty minutes before serving moisten a teaspoonful
of Du Barry's Revalenta Arabica with a wineglassful
of cold water, and stir into half-a-pint of the tea ; boil
slowly for twenty minutes.
NOTE.—Du Barry's Revalenta Arabica will be found
an excellent food for invalids and convalescents.
13.
BARLEY WATER.
Put an ounce of pearl barley into an enamelled sauce-
pan with a quart of cold water, and boil for two hours
and a half. Stir it occasionally, and skim frequently.
Strain through muslin into a jug; sweeten with sugar-
candy dust, and, if the invalid may take acids, add the
strained juice of a lemon.
14.
RICE WATER.
Put two ounces of rice into an enamelled saucepan
with three pints of water, and boil for two hours and a


RECIPES.
33
half. Stir it frequently and skim. Strain into a jug
through a fine wire sieve; rub through the part that
is glutinous, but not what may be firm. Put in no
flavouring, unless ordered by the medical man.
15.
WHITE WINE WHEY.
To half a pint of boiling milk add one or two wine-
glassfuls of sherry ; strain through a fine sieve, sweeten
with sifted sugar, and serve.
16.
BEEF JUICE FOR THE SICK.
Cut one pound of beef in small pieces, put it into a
bottle and cork it up; set the bottle into a little cold
water, let it stand over the fire till it boils. For
invalids who cannot take beef tea, beef juice frozen
in an ice-cream freezer is often relished by fever
patients.
17.
CHICKEN TEA.
Cut up a fowl in small pieces. Put it into an earthen
vessel with some salt and three pints of water; let it
boil three hours, set it to cool, then take off the fat.
18.
CALF's Foot BROTH.
Take two feet; break them up; put them into a pot
with two quarts of water, one carrot, a little mace, and


RECIPES
35
22.
EGG AND SHERRY.
Beat up with a fork an egg till it froths, add a lump
of sugar and two tablespoonfuls of water; mix well,
pour in a wineglassful of sherry, and serve before it
gets flat.
23.
CAUDLE.
Beat up an egg to a froth, add a wineglassful of
sherry, and half-a-pint of gruel; flavour with lemon-
peel and nutmeg, and sweeten to taste.
Another Caudle.—Mix well together one pint of cold
gruel with a wineglassful of good cream ; add a wine-
glassful of sherry and a tablespoonful of noyeau, and
sweeten with sugar-candy.
24.
· A GRUEL.
Beat up an egg to a froth, add a wineglass of sherry,
flavour with a lump of sugar, a strip of lemon-peel, and
a little grated nutmeg. Have ready some gruel, very
smooth and hot, stir in the wine and egg, and serve
with sippets of crisp toast. Arrowroot may be made
in the same way.
D 2


RECIPES.
37
good broth, pour through a fine strainer into a saucepan,
taking care none of the coarse part of the meal goes
into the soup. Boil the soup for ten minutes, season,
and serve.
29.
TOAST WATER.
This useful beverage, like many other simple things,
is too frequently very badly made, and has acquired an
evil reputation from the crumbs of charcoal-like charac-
ter, or little sodden morsels of bread, which too often
are found floating on the surface. To remedy these
defects, take care that the crusts from which toast water
is to be made shall be only a nice deep brown; never
allowing them to catch fire or blacken in the toast-
ing, and letting them grow quite cold before immersing
them in nice fresh-filtered water. Whenever from any
cause there are morsels of bread floating on the water,
strain it through muslin. The drink should be made
an hour before it is wanted, and never be used after
standing twelve hours.
30.
LEMONADE.
Four lemons, quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, and
three pints of boiling water ; rub some sugar on the
rinds of two of the lemons till it is yellow. Strain the
juice of the four; put the sugar and juice into a jug,
and pour over the water. Cover it till cold.


RECIPES.
39
is apt to scorch, and must be stirred whilst cooking.
A little nutmeg grated on top after it is done makes a
pleasant flavour. If the gruel is desired thick more
meal will be needed.
35.
CREAM OF "TARTAR.
POTUS IMPERIALIS.
(A Cooling Drink.)
Put half an ounce of cream of tartar, the juice of one
lemon, and two tablespoonfuls of sifted sugar into a
jug, and pour over a quart of boiling water. Cover till
cold.
36.
APPLE WATER.
Cut up one pound of apples, each one into quarters,
bake them, and put them into a jug, with half a pound
of brown sugar, pour one gallon of boiling water over; let
it get cold, pulp the apples, and pass the liquor through
a cullender; bottle for use, taking care not to cork the
bottle, and keep it in a cool place.
37.
APPLE TOAST AND WATER.
A piece of bread slowly toasted till it gets quite black
and added to the above makes a very nice and refreshing
drink for invalids.


RECIPES.
50.
PORRIDGE-OATMEAL.
If you want to make it quickly for a family, take
twelve ounces of fine meal, half an ounce of salt, and
three pints of water. Dissolve the salt in the boiling
water, add the meal after having rubbed it smooth in a
little cold water, stir it all the time, and allow it to boil
all over the surface of the water for twenty minutes, or
more. Pour it into saucers, and serve with milk, and
either salt, or sugar, or treacle.
The proper way is to eat first a spoonful of porridge,
and then one of milk, but I do not think many people
· take that trouble.
(I. C. D. G. E.)
51.
WHOLE MEAL PORRIDGE.
You can get the whole meal at many bakers’shops now,
and it is very delicious when properly made. Take one
quart of boiling water, and sprinkle in gradually half a
pound of wheat-meal; boil till quite soft, then serve with
milk and treacle or brown sugar. (I. C. D. G.)
52.
HASTY PUDDING FOR CHILDREN'S BREAKFAST.
Boil half a pint of milk, beat two dessertspoonfuls of
flour into a paste with cold milk; add it to the boiling
milk and keep stirring it always in the same direction
till it is done.


FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
53.
EGYPTIAN PORRIDGE.
Take three tablespoonfuls of lentil flour, a saltspoonful
of salt, and one pint of water. Now mix your flour and
salt into a paste with the water, and boil ten minutes,
stirring all the time.
54.
COARSE PORRIDGE.
Have ready some boiling water on the fire with a little
salt in it; then sprinkle in the coarse oatmeal, and boil
it for two hours. People from Yorkshire and Scotland
will not touch the fine oatmeal, which they say is only
fit for gruel, and for sick people. (I. C. D. G. E.)
55.
SAGO.
Put half an ounce of sago into an enamelled sauce-
pan with three-quarters of a pint of cold water, and
boil gently for an hour and a quarter. Skim when it
comes to the boil, and stir frequently. Sweeten with a
dessertspoonful of sifted loaf sugar. If wine be ordered,
two dessertspoonfuls; and if brandy, one dessert-
spoonful.
(I. C. D. G.)
56.
TAPIOCA MILK.
Half an ounce of the best tapioca to a pint and
a quarter of new milk. Simmer gently for two hours


RECIPES.
and a quarter, stirring frequently.
dessertspoonful of sifted sugar.
Sweeten with a
(I. C. D. G.)
57.
RICE MILK
Wash a tablespoonful of the best rice, and boil it an
hour and a half in a pint of new milk; rub through a
fine sieve. Sweeten with a dessertspoonful of sifted
sugar. Boil up again for two minutes. (I. C. D. G.)
58.
ARROWROOT.
Mix two teaspoonfuls of the best arrowroot with half
a wineglassful of cold water; add a pint of boiling
water; put it into an enamelled saucepan, and stir over
the fire for three minutes. Sweeten with three tea-
spoonfuls of sifted loaf sugar. Add (if permitted to
take it) either a wineglassful of white wine or a table-
spoonful of brandy.
(I. C. D. G.)
59.
ARROWROOT MILK.
Mix two teaspoonfuls of arrowroot with a wineglass-
ful of new milk; add half a pint of boiling milk; put
it into an enamelled saucepan, and stir over the fire
for three minutes. Sweeten with a dessertspoonful
of sifted loaf sugar.
(I. C. D. G.)


46
FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
60.
INDIAN CORN FLOUR.
Mix a dessertspoonful of “Brown and Polson's ”
Indian corn flour with a wineglassful of new milk; add
half a pint of boiling milk, and stir over the fire for
four minutes. Sweeten with a teaspoonful of sifted
loaf sugar. Add a tablespoonful of good cream.
(I. C. D. G.)
61.
COCOA NIBS.
Two ounces will make two moderate-sized breakfast
cups. Put it into a tin coffeepot (bright inside) with a
quart of water, and boil for five hours. Pour it into a
jug, and when cold take off the fat; boil up the cocoa,
and send to table with boiling milk. If prepared cocoa
be used “ Cocoatina" will be found the best. It requires
double the quantity given in the “Directions for use.”
Prepared by Schweitzer and Co., 86, King's Road,
Brighton.
(I. C. D. G.)
62.
HOMINY PORRIDGE.
Put to soak one pint of hominy in two and one half
pints of boiling water over night, in a tin vessel with a
tight cover; in the morning place over a brisk fire and
boil for twenty or twenty-five minutes.
(I. C. D. G. E.)


RECIPES.
63.
HOMINY PUDDING.
Take the hominy soaked over night, and place in a
dish with a pint and a half of milk; put in the oven
and bake for twenty minutes. (I. C. D. G. E.)
. 64.
HOMINY CHEESE PUDDING.
· Treat the hominy as above, but when baked add
three ounces of finely grated cheese, and mix thoroughly;
then bake for five or seven minutes. (I. C. D. G.)
65.
CORN MEAL BREAD-BOILED.
In six cups of milk put one cup of molasses and half
a cup of sugar, and a little salt. Stir in six cups of
corn meal, one teaspoonful of baking soda, two tea-
spoonfuls of cream of tartar, and one pint of flour. Stir
well together. Put into a covered tin vessel, immerse
in boiling water, and boil four hours. Serve hot.
(I. C. D. G.)
66.
CORN BREAD-BAKED.
To one quart of sweet milk put one teacup of molasses,
one teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a cup of milk, one
pint of corn meal, one cup of flour, and a little salt.
Beat very light and pour into buttered pans and bake
two hours. Serve hot.
(C. G.)
ORN BREAD
KED.


43
FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
67.
CORN BREAD_STEAMED.
In two and a half cups of thick milk, or buttermilk,
put two tablespoonfuls of white sugar, one tablespoonful
of melted lard. Stir in two cups of corn meal, one cup
of flour, one teaspoonful of baking soda, and one tea-
spoonful of salt. Beat very hard, put into a buttered
mould, and steam one hour and a half. Set in an oven
for a few minutes. Turn out upon a hot plate, and eat
while warm. This makes a good plain dessert if eaten
with pudding sauce.
(I. C. G.)
68.
CORN MEAL BREAKFAST CAKE.
Mix well by siftingone pint of corn meal and two table-
spoonfuls of wheat flour; add one tablespoonful of sugar,
one teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of baking soda,
two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar. Mix rapidly and
thoroughly with one pint of sweet milk, one beaten egg,
and a piece of butter the size of an egg. Bake in a
shallow pan, in a hot oven, for twenty minutes.
(C. G.)
69.
ANOTHER CORN MEAL BREAKFAST CAKE.
Break two eggs into a pint of sour milk, add one
tablespoonful of melted butter, one teaspoonful of salt,
and stir in sufficient corn meal to make a thick batter,
then mix in one teaspoonful of baking soda. Bake in
shallow pans in a hot oven.
(C. G.)


RECIPES.
70.
CORN MEAL PUDDING.
One quart of milk, four cups of molasses, two table-
spoonfuls of corn meal, one cup of sugar, one egg, a little
salt, one quarter of a pound of suet chopped fine.
Put the molasses in one pint of the milk, then add the
salt, and cup of sugar, and the suet, and one tablespoon-
ful of the meal. Heat the other pint of milk and scald
the remaining tablespoonful of meal with it. Then
stir all together. Put in a pudding dish. Stir it occa-
sionally while baking, until it settles. Serve hot.
(C. G.)
71.
HOMINY, OR LARGE WHITE CORN-BOILED.
Soak over night one quart of the hominy in cold
water, next day put it into a pot with two quarts of water,
and boil slowly three hours, or until it is soft. Drain in
a cullender and stir in butter and salt. (I. C. D. G.)
72.
GRITS, OR BREAKFAST HOMINY.
It is the large white corn cracked fine. Soak a pint
of grits in cold water over night. In the morning
put it into about one quart of boiling water with a
little salt. Cook briskly, stirring frequently for about
half an hour. When nearly done, stir in about half a
pint of milk. It should be about as thick as mush.
(I. C. D. G.)
Ε


60
FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
73.
CORN STARCH PUDDING.
One quart of milk, four tablespoonfuls of corn starch,
four eggs, one tablespoonful of butter, six tablespoonfuls
of sugar. Dissolve the corn starch in a little cold milk,
and having heated the rest of the milk to boiling, stir
this in and boil three minutes, stirring it all the time.
Take from the fire and while still hot put in the butter.
Set away until cold. Beat the eggs very light, whites
and yolks separately. Stir the sugar and any flavour-
ing desired in the yolks and then add the beaten whites,
and stir in the corn starch beating thoroughly to a
smooth custard. Turn into a buttered dish and bake
half an hour. To be eaten cold. (I. C. D. G.)
74.
ANOTHER CORN STARCH PUDDING.
One quart of milk, three tablespoonfuls of corn starch,
three eggs, four tablespoonfuls of sugar and a little salt.
Dissolve the corn starch in a little of the milk, and mix
with it the sugar, and the eggs well beaten. Heat the
remainder of the milk to near boiling, add the above
preparation and boil five minutes, stirring it briskly.
To be eaten with cream or sauce. (I. C. D. G.)
75
SNOW PUDDING,
Put into half a pint of cold water half a package of
gelatine. Let it stand one hour, then add one pint of


52
FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
78.
SANDWICHES.
These can be prepared as directed at p. 27, and made
with a slice of beef, or ham, or from the thick part of a
tongue, or the sheep's tongues in tins, or with real or
mock paté de foie gras; or with the potted meats of
Crosse and Blackwell, potted lobster, shrimps, cod's roe,
ham, beef, or tongue. Ham with chicken, veal and ham
or Strasburg meats; or with potted game or venison.
Or they may be prepared with any jam, as strawberry,
quince, damson, apricot, peach, or plum. If marmalade
be used the act of mastication should be carefully per-
formed.
79.
MOCK PATÉ DE FOIE GRAS.
Rub the bottom of a stewpan five times across with a
piece of fresh cut garlic, put in three pounds of larded
calf's liver, with two chopped shalots, a laurel leaf, a
bay leaf, a blade of mace, four peppercorns, two cloves,
a saltspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of loaf sugar,
and half a pint of water or stock ; simmer gently for
four hours. Then cut the liver into thin slices, place
in a basin and cover with the liquid ; let it remain till
the next day. Then pound the liver to a paste, add a
tablespoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of white pepper,
add three-quarters of a pound of clarified butter ;
pound well together, and pass through a wire sieve;
put into pots; smooth over the top with a knife, then
pour over hot clarified butter or lard, and keep in a
cool place.
(I. C. D. G. E.)


RECIPES.
53
80.
POTTED BEEF.
Cook a beefsteak, cut off the fat, gristle, and out-
side pieces ; pound in a mortar till in a paste ; to
one pound of beef add a saltspoonful of salt, a tea-
spoonful of anchovy-sauce, a saltspoonful of white
pepper, a quarter of a grain of cayenne, the eighth
part of a nutmeg, grated, a mustardspoonful of fresh-
made mustard, a tablespoonful of beef gravy, and three
ounces of dissolved butter; press it into pots, smooth
over the top with a knife, and pour over an ounce of
dissolved butter. To be kept in a cool place.
(I. C. D.)
81.
POTTED TONGUE.
Cut some (cold boiled) tongue into thin slices, a little
of the fat also, pound it to paste in a mortar. To one
pound add a teaspoonful of fresh-made mustard, the
eighth part of a nutmeg, grated, a saltspoonful of
white pepper, a quarter of a grain of cayenne, and
two ounces of dissolved fresh butter; press the meat
into pots, and pour an ounce of dissolved butter over
them. Ham can be done the same way. (I. C. D.)
82.
BEEF JUICE WITH TOAST.
Broil a rump steak over a hot fire until it is only just
nicely browned and hot through; cut it into pieces and


54
FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
press it to get all the juice out of it; season this with
salt and a little pepper, pour it over some nicely made
toast on a hot dish, and serve as hot as possible.
(I. C. D.)
83.
POUNDED BEEF.
Take one pound of cold roast beef, pound it well to a
paste, add a saltspoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of
white pepper, one blade of mace, and half a pound of
clarified butter; mix together and pass through a wire
sieve. Put into pots, press down, and run over the top
hot clarified butter.
. (I. C. D.)
ARTIFICIAL DIGESTION.
This subject is practically so new that I prefer to give
verbatim the directions which are given with each
bottle of the most potent fluid we possess for the pur-
pose of artificial digestion, As said before, at p. 19,
such digested food is indicated in severe conditions, as
in typhoid fever, in gastric ulcer, in great prostration,
and in confirmed intractable dyspepsia.
84.
PEPTONIZED MILK.
Fresh milk is diluted with water in the proportion of
three parts of milk to one part of water. A pint of
this mixture is heated to boiling, and then poured into
a covered jug. When it has cooled down to about 140°


RECIPES.
55
Fahr., one or two teaspoonfuls of the liquor pancrea-
ticus, and a small pinch of bicarbonate of soda in
solution) are mixed therewith. The jug is then placed
under a “cosey” in a warm situation for one hour. At
the end of this time the product is again boiled for a
couple of minutes. It can then be used like ordinary
milk.
85.
PEPTONIZED MILK-GRUEL.
Half a pint of well-boiled gruel is added, while still
boiling hot, to half a pint of cold milk in a covered jug.
T'he mixture will have a temperature of about 125°
Fahr. The liquor pancreaticus and the bicarbonate of
soda are then added in the same proportion as in the
preceding process. The jug is placed under a “cosey”
and kept warm for an hour and half. The contents are
then boiled for a couple of minutes, and the product is
ready for use. By this second method the use of the
thermometer is dispensed with.
86.
PREPARATION OF NUTRITIVE ENEMATA.
A nutritive enema should be prepared in the usual
way—of milk—or of milk with beef tea or eggs—or of
milk-gruel. To half a pint of the warm enema a table-
spoonful of the liquor pancreaticus, and thirty grains of
bicarbonate of soda should be added. The enema can
then be administered at once.


FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
97.
STEWED FRUITS.—APPLES.
Peel one pound of apples, cut in slices, remove the
core, put into a stewpan with three or four ounces of
white pounded sugar, one ounce of butter, two table-
spoonfuls of water, stir gently on a slow fire until
tender; use hot or cold when required. Brown sugar
may be used.
Another way. To the above add the juice of half
a lemon, or of one orange, and a little of the peel of
either, or a small piece of cinnamon or in powder.
(I. C. D.)
98.
RED RHUBARB.
Cut one pound of rhubarb one inch long, put into
a pan with two tablespoonfuls of water and three
ounces of white powdered sugar; stir on a slow fire
till tender.
(I. C.)
99.
GREEN RHUBARB.
It requires peeling, and stewing with brown sugar.
Stir more if old.
(I. C. D.)
100.
CHERRIES.
Cut the stalk balf off of one pound of cherries, put
into a pan with eight ounces of sugar; set on the
stove for a few minutes, then add half a pound of


RECIPES.
red currants and the same of raspberries ; stew
altogether until getting tender and the juice becomes
quite thick, put by until cold.
(I. C.)
101.
PRESERVED PEARS.
(To be done early in October.)
Any good pears just gathered for keeping. Peel
them and cut them in halves, take out the cores. Put
the pears into cold water to prevent them becoming dis-
coloured. Put the parings and cores into a skillet with
double their weight of the common black plums, quite
ripe. Cover them with cold water and boil slowly till
the liquor is well flavoured and slightly pink; then
strain it off. Put the pears into the skillet with three-
quarters of a pound of loaf-sugar, in powder, to every
pound. Cover them with the liquor, and simmer gently
till they are tender, but not soft. Then take them out
put them in pots, boil the syrup rapidly, till it becomes
thick and bright. Pour it over the pears, and when
cold tie them over. Label the pots and keep them in
a dry closet. If the pears should get overdone by
accident, break them up into a marmalade. They
require more care than most things in preserving, as
they quickly become soft.
(I. C. D.)
rs of a poulm with the liquorihen take the
102.
PRESERVED QUINCES.
Pare the quinces, cut them in halves, scoop out the
cores, and put them into cold water to preserve the


62
FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
colour. Put into a stewpan the parings and cores, with
three times their weight of apples, cut in slices, and
sufficient cold water to cover them well, and boil till
quite in a soft pulp; then strain through a sieve with-
out bruising the pulp. Weigh the quinces and the juice,
and allow three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar to
every pound. Put the quinces, the juice, and the sugar
into a stewpan and simmer gently, skimming often till
they are tender and the juice is clear. Put the quinces
carefully into jars, and fill up with the juice. When
cold tie them down and keep them in a dry closet.
There will probably be more juice than the jars require.
This can be put into small glasses; when cold it forms
a bright jelly and is very good with cream or cold boiled
rice.
(I. C. D. G.)
103.
STEWED FIGS.
Put into an enamelled stewpan four ounces of refined
sugar, the very thin rind of a large and fresh lemon,
and a pint of cold water. When the sugar is dissolved,
add a pound of fine Turkey figs, and place the stewpan
on a trivet above a moderate fire, or upon a stove, where
they can be very gently stewed. From two hours to two
hours and a half will render the figs tender, then add to
them two glassfuls of port-wine and the strained juice
of the lemon. Serve when cold.
(I. C. D. G.)


64
FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
106.
CUSTARD WITHOUT EGGS—WITH FRUIT.
Mix a large tablespoonful of Oswego and two table-
spoonfuls of sugar with a little cold milk. Boil a pint •
of milk with the thin peel of half a lemon and a laurel
leaf; let it stand off the fire for ten minutes; take out
the peel and leaf, pour the milk over the Oswego, stir-
ring all the time; put it into a saucepan, and boil for
two minutes ; turn it into a basin, and stir it till it is
cool. Put half a pound of marmalade, or sweetened
summer fruit into a dish ; pour the custard over, and
stand it in a cool place till wanted. Sweeten the fruit
as follows :-A pint of fine red currants and a pint of
fresh raspberries, both nicely picked; put them into
a dish with a quarter of a pound of good moist sugar
and a tablespoonful of water, and let them saturate for
six hours or longer. Stir them frequently, and use as
directed
(I. C. D. G.)
107.
RICH BOILED CUSTARD.
Take a small cupful from a quart of fresh cream,
and simmer the remainder for a few minutes, with four
ounces of sugar and the rind of a lemon, or give it any
other flavour that may be preferred. Beat and strain
the yolks of eight eggs, mix them with the cupful of
cream, and stir the rest, boiling, to them. Keep the
custard stirred gently, but without ceasing, until it
begins to thicken. Then move the spoon rather more


RECIPES.
C5
quickly, making it always touch the bottom of the jug
until the mixture is brought to the point of boiling,
when it must be instantly taken from the fire or it will
curdle in a moment. Pour it into a bowl and keep it
stirred until nearly cold, then add to it by degrees a
wineglassful of good brandy, and two ounces of blanched
almonds.
(I. C. G.)
108.
CUSTARD.
A pint of new milk, three ounces of loaf sugar, and
the thin rind of half a lemon boiled in an enamelled
saucepan for three minutes ; take it off the fire for five
minutes ; beat eight eggs, leaving out four of the whites,
add the milk to the eggs, stirring quickly as it is poured
in. Put the custard again into the saucepan, and stir
over a gentle fire till it begins to thicken; then strain
through a fine sieve into a basin; add half a gill of good
cream, and any of the following flavouring :-Brandy,
curaçoa, maraschino, or rum; of either two tablespoon-
fuls ; ratafia, one tablespoonful ; essence of vanilla or
lemon, twenty drops; orange-flower water, a teaspoonful.
(I. C. D. G.)
109.
SWEET EGGS.
Divide the yolks from the whites of ten perfectly
new-laid eggs. Add to the yolks four dessertspoonfuls
of finely-pounded loaf sugar, and beat them ten minutes.
Whip the whites with a wire whisk till in a stiff froth ;
add five dessertspoonfuls of pounded loaf sugar and


RECIPES.
112.
GROUND RICE PUDDING.
Mix a teaspoonful of finely-ground rice with a des-
sertspoonful of cold milk, pour over half-a-pint of
boiling (new) milk, put it into an enamelled saucepan,
and stir over the fire for half an hour. Sweeten with
three teaspoonfuls of sifted sugar; set the saucepan
aside for five minutes. Beat the yolk of one new-laid
egg, add it to the rice, and stir over the fire for one
minute after it comes to boiling heat. This pudding
may be served either hot or cold.
(I. C. D. G.)
113.
MATRIMONY PUDDING.
Pare and core one pound and a half of apples, and
boil with three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar, the
grated rind and strained juice of a lemon, and the sixth
part of a nutmeg, grated; stir till they become a rich
marmalade ; then let it get cold. Make a custard as
follows:-Moisten a tablespoonful of Oswego flour with
half-a-gill of new milk; boil a quarter of a pound of
loaf sugar in half a pint of milk, and stir into it the
flour while boiling, add four well-beaten eggs and half
a gill of thick cream. Butter a pie-dish, lay in the
custard and marmalade in alternate layers till the
dish is full; bake in a quick oven for twenty-five
minutes. Serve hot or cold.
(I. C. G.)
F 2


FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
114.
CUMBERLAND PUDDING.
Four ounces of apples, finely chopped, three ounces
of fine crumbs of bread, four ounces of moist sugar,
four ounces of well-washed currants, four ounces of
beef-marrow or suet, finely chopped, the grated rind and
strained juice of half a lemon, the sixth part of a nut-
meg, grated, three well-beaten eggs, a tablespoonful of
dried flour, and half a gill of milk; mix these ingredients
well together, beat for ten minutes; butter a basin, put
in the mixture, tie a cloth over, put it into plenty of
boiling water, and boil fast for three hours, or bake in
a moderate oven an hour and a half. Serve with sifted
sugar over it.
(C.)
115.
SUET PUDDING.
Put into a basin half a pound of chopped suet, half
a pound of baked flour, two eggs, a teaspoonful of salt,
quarter of pepper, and four tablespoonfuls of treacle,
with nearly half a pint of water ; beat all well together,
put into a cloth or mould to boil for one hour and a
half.
(I. C. D. G.)
116.
BOILED SUET PUDDING.
Beat three eggs to a froth, add a cupful of chopped
beef suet, a teaspoonful of salt, and one pint of milk,
and stir in gradually until smooth, enough baked flour


RECIPES.
69
to make a stiff batter. Pour into a buttered bowl, and
tie in a cloth and boil four hours. Serve with either
sugar and treacle, or sugar and milk.
(I. C. D. G.)
117.
SUET PUDDING WITH TREACLE.
Put into a basin half a pound of chopped suet, a pound
of flour, two eggs, a teaspoonful of salt and a teacupful
of treacle, and nearly half a pint of water; beat all well
together and boil in a cloth or basin for two hours and
a-half.
118.
SEMOLINA PUDDING.
Blanch and pound to a soft paste six bitter and an
ounce of sweet almonds; put them into an enamelled
saucepan, with six ounces of semolina, five ounces of
loaf-sugar, and a pint of new milk; boil, stirring con-
stantly, for three quarters of an hour; add two ounces
of fresh butter, stir off the fire for ten minutes, then
add five well-beaten eggs. Butter a mould, pour in the
pudding, tie it over with writing-paper spread with
butter, and steam over fast boiling water for an
hour and a half; or bake in a moderate oven for an
hour.
(I. C. D. G.)


RECIPES.
72
then put in two ounces of sifted bread crumbs; stir
until the mixture is stiff, then add one ounce of shred
suet and one well-beaten egg; add a little flavouring or
grated nutmeg. Put the pudding into a buttered dish
and bake slowly for an hour.
(I. C. D. G. E.)
122.
LEMON JELLY.
Dissolve an ounce of isinglass in a pint of water,
then add a pound of loaf sugar, and the juice and rind
of two lemons; boil for ten minutes, then strain it into
a mould.
(I. C.)
123.
GOOSE PUDDING
Soak a quarter of a pound of scraps of bread in cold
water for one hour, pour off the water and bruise the
bread with a fork till it is smooth. Chop one large
onion (previously boiled), mix it with the bread adding
half an ounce of flour, a quarter of a teaspoonful of
powdered sage, half an ounce of dripping or butter, two
tablespoonfuls of milk, half a teaspoonful of salt, and
half that quantity of pepper. Grease a baking-tin;
place the mixture in it, and put on the top one ounce
of butter or dripping cut into small pieces. Bake in
the oven for half an hour. If there is no oven, put the
tin on a hot hob or girdle for twenty minutes, then
brown before the fire. Turn out of the tin and cut
into four or six pieces. Serve hot or cold. (G. E.)
or giru Turn out
cold.


72
FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
124.
EEL SOUP.
Take three pounds of small eels; put to them two
quarts of water, a crust of bread, three blades of mace,
some whole pepper, an onion, and a bunch of sweet
herbs; cover them close, and stew till the fish is quite
broken, then strain off. Toast some bread, cut it into dice,
and pour the soup on it boiling. A piece of carrot may
be put in at first; a quarter of pint of cream, with a
teaspoonful of flour rubbed smooth in it, is a great
improvement.
(I. C. D. G.)
125.
EEL BROTH.
Clean half a pound of small eels, and set them on
with three pints of water, some parsley, one slice of
onion, a few peppercorns ; let them simmer till the eels
are broken and the broth good. Add salt and strain it
off. The above should make three half pints of broth.
(I. C. D. G.)
126.
STEWED EELS.
Skin and cut off the fins of an eel weighing two
pounds; put it on a gridiron over a bright quick fire for
six minutes to draw out the fat, well scrape it, and cut
it into pieces three inches long; put it into a pie-dish


RECIPES.
with the strained juice of two lemons, a saltspoonful of
salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, the sixth part of a nut-
meg, grated, a moderate-sized onion, chopped fine, a
quarter of a clove of garlic, chopped, and a teaspoonful
of tarragon vinegar; well rub the eel with this seasoning,
and let it remain for an hour. Dissolve two ounces of
butter, dip each piece of eel in, and dredge it with
baked flour. Fry to a nice brown colour over a quick
fire (in two ounces of butter) for ten minutes. Put
three-quarters of a pint of stock into a stewpan, with a
teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, a dessertspoonful of soy,
a grain of cayenne, and a tablespoonful of baked flour;
stir till it boils. Put in the eel, boil up quickly, skim
carefully, then simmer gently for twenty-five minutes.
Add half a gill of port wine and serve.
(I. C. G.)
127.
EELS, WITH TARTAR SAUCE.
Have an eel weighing a pound and a half ; skin it,
and cut off the fins ; put it into boiling water with a
tablespoonful of vinegar and a teaspoonful of salt, and
let it remain five minutes; cut it into three inch lengths,
and roll it in a clean cloth to dry. Make a batter as
follows :--Beat the yolks of two eggs, and mix with
three tablespoonfuls of baked flour; add an ounce of
dissolved butter and the third of a pint of tepid water ;
beat quickly for ten minutes ; let it stand in a cool
place for two or three hours. Beat the whites of the
eggs to a stiff froth, and add to a batter, continue to
beat for ten minutes. Dip the eel into the batter, then


FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
fry it in boiling lard (enough to cover it) till of a pale
brown colour (about twenty minutes), drain on a cloth
before the fire. Place the eel in a circular form on a cold
dish, and serve with the following sauce in the centre :-
Rub the hard boiled yolks of three eggs to a powder,
add a saltspoonful of flour of mustard, half a saltspoon-
ful of salt, half a grain of cayenne, and the beaten yolk
of one egg; stir in drop by drop four tablespoonfuls of
Lucca oil, two tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, and
one tablespoonful of French vinegar; continue to stir
till the sauce becomes a thick cream; chop quite fine
one shalot, a piece of garlic as big as a pea, and one
small gherkin; stir these into the sauce, and serve (cold)
as directed.
(I. C. G.)
128.
BOILED EELS, WITH PARSLEY SAUCE.
The eel should weigh about one pound and a half
when the skin and fins are removed, put it into plenty
of cold water, with a tablespoonful of salt and a dessert-
spoonful of vinegar; boil up quickly, skim, and simmer
gently for twenty-five minutes. Serve very hot, and
with the following sauce.
Knead three ounces of butter with a tablespoonful of
baked flour; strain the third of a pint of the water the
eel has been boiled in, and stir the butter into it; boil
ten minutes. Scald a bunch of parsley, chop it, and
stir a good-sized teaspoonful into the sauce.
(I. C. D. G.)


FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
131.
STOCK FOR BROWN OR WHITE FISH SOUPS.
Take a pound of skate, four or five flounders, and two
pounds of eels. Clean them well, and cut them into
pieces; cover them with water; season with mace,
pepper, salt, an onion stuck with cloves, a head of
celery, two parsley-roots sliced, and a bunch of sweet
herbs. Simmer an hour and a half, closely covered,
and then strain off for use. If for brown soup first
fry the tish brown in butter, and then do as above. It
will not keep more than two or three days.
132.
OYSTER SOUP.
Three dozen oysters, one quart of veal broth, quarter
of a pint of cream, one ounce of butter, three-quarters
of an ounce of flour, salt, pepper or cayenne, and mace
to taste. Scald the oysters in their own liquor, beard
them and put them into a tureen. Put the beards and
liquor into the broth and simmer for half an hour, then
strain, season, bring to a boil, add the thickening of
butter or flour, simmer for five minutes, stir in the
boiling creain and pour over the oysters, and serve.
May be made less rich by using milk instead of
cream.
(I. C. G.)


RECIPES.
133.
OYSTER SOUP. (NO. 2.)
Have four dozens of oysters fresh opened; take off
the beards, and throw the oysters into a pint of cold
water with the strained juice of a lemon in it. Put the
beards into two quarts of stock and boil up.. Mix
three tablespoonfuls of baked flour with half a pint of
the oyster liquor, and stir into the soup; boil fast for a
quarter of an hour. Strain through a fine sieve; add
the oysters and the strained juice of a lemon. Simmer
very gently for eight minutes, stir in a gill of thick
cream, and serve immediately.
(I. C. G.)
134.
PRAWN SOUP.
Have a fine hen lobster and fifty prawns, quite fresh
boiled ; cut the meat of the lobster into small pieces,
and put it with the shells into a stewpan, with an onion
sliced, two ounces of butter and a quart of water. Boil
for one hour; then add two quarts of stock. Mix four
tablespoonfuls of dry flour with half a pint of cold
stock, and stir into the soup till it thickens; then boil
half an hour longer, and strain through a sieve. Take
off the shells carefully, and put the prawns into the
soup; boil up for six minutes. Add three-quarters of
a pint of sweet thick cream and serve immediately.
(I. C. G.)


FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
135.
LOBSTER SOUP.
Take the meat from the bodies, claws, and tails, of
six small lobsters; take away the brown fur, and the
bag in the head; beat the fins, chine, and small claws in
a mortar. Boil it very gently in two quarts of water,
with the crumb of a French roll, some white pepper,
salt, two anchovies, a large onion, sweet herbs, and a
bit of lemon peel, till you have extracted the goodness
of them all. Strain it off. Beat the spawn in a mortar
with a bit of butter, a quarter of a nutineg, and a tea-
spoonful of flour; mix it with one quart of cream. Cut
the tails into pieces, and give them a boil up with the
soup. Serve with forcemeat balls made of the remainder
of the lobster, mace, pepper, salt, a few crumbs, and an
egg or two; let the balls be made up with a little flour,
and heated in the soup.
(I. C. G.)
136.
RED MULLET IN PAPER.
Wash the mullet; rub each one with a teaspoonful of
salad oil, a teaspoonful of lemon juice, a quarter of a
saltspoonful of salt, the same of white pepper, the
twelfth part of a nutmeg, grated; put them into a dish,
and strew over them a tablespoonful of chopped parsley,
two shalots, finely chopped, and let them saturate for
three hours. Spread a sheet of foolscap paper (for each
mullet) with an ounce of butter; put in the mullet, and
roll the edges neatly and closely to prevent the butter


FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
139.
MUSTARD SAUCE FOR FRESH HERRINGS,
Knead a dessertspoonful of baked flour, and a tea-
spoonful of flour of mustard with three ounces of butter,
and stir into a gill of boiling water ; boil five minutes ;
add a teaspoonful of vinegar and serve.
140.
BOILED HERRINGS.
Put them into boiling water with a wineglassful of
vinegar and a tablespoonful of salt, and simmer ten
minutes ; serve on a napkin, with the preceding sauce
in a tureen.
(G. E.)
141.
BAKED HERRINGS.
Take off the heads of six herrings; put them into a
deep dish and season with a saltspoonful of pepper, a
teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of a grain of cayenne, two
cloves, four allspice, six peppercorns, a blade of mace,
half an inch of bruised ginger, and a teaspoonful of
grated horseradish ; add a gill of cold water and a gill
of good vinegar. Bake in a slow oven for half an hour.
Serve cold, with the sauce strained, and a teaspoonful of
finely chopped chives added.
(I. C. G. E.)


FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
144.
BAKED SPRATS.
Follow the preceding receipt exactly, except for time;
eight minutes will be sufficient.
(I. C. G. E.)
145.
BROILED SPRATS.
Wash the sprats in cold water, and wipe them quite
dry; place them on a folding wire gridiron, and broil
over a quick bright fire for six or eight minutes. Serve
very hot, and only a few at a time, as they spoil if not
eaten immediately.
(I. C. G. E.)
146.
MOCK WHITEBAIT.
Cut into strips an inch and a half long, and a quarter
of an inch broad, either whiting or brill. Make a bat-
ter with two eggs, two tablespoonfuls of dried flour, half
a saltspoonful of salt, and a third of a pint of new milk;
beat the batter for half an hour at least before using.
Have a bright frying-pan half full of boiling salad oil,
dip the pieces of fish into the batter, and fry quickly to
a pale brown colour. Serve very hot, piled lightly on
the dish (uncovered). A cut lemon, cayenne, and very
thin brown bread and butter should be added.
.(I. C. G. E.)


RECIPES.
83
147.
BAKED HADDOCK.
Ruo the fish over with the juice of a lemon and a tea-
spoonful of salt, and let it stand three hours ; season
two ounces of crumbs of bread with half a saltspoonful
of salt, the same of white pepper, the eighth part of a
nutmeg, grated, half a grain of cayenne, and the grated
rind of half a lemon; beat one egg. Wipe the fish quite
dry, brush it over with egg, and strew it with the
crumbs; place the fish on a wire drainer-raised about
an inch from the dish under it-put it into a moderate
oven; baste with dissolved butter (a quarter of a pound)
and bake twenty-five or thirty minutes-unless a large
fish, then five minutes longer. Strain the liquor over the
fish and serve immediately.
(I. C. D. G. E.)
148.
STEWED WHITING.
Take off the skin and the heads and tails, lay the fish
in a stewpan, and season each one with a quarter of a
saltspoonful of salt, one grain of white pepper, a quarter
of a saltspoonful of mixed sweet herbs in powder, and
for the whole (four or six) the grated rind of half a
a lemon. Pour in a quarter of a pound of dissolved
butter, simnier for ten minutes; add a large wine glass-
ful of marsala, and the strained juice of a lemon ;
simmer five minutes more; place the fish neatly on a
hot dish, and pour the sauce over. Send to table
immediately.
(I. C. D. G.)
G 2


FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
149.
BOILED WHITING.
Whiting should be large for boiling, and with the
skin taken off it is more delicate. Put it into boiling
water, and simmer from twelve to eighteen minutes
according to the size ; skim well. Drain, and serve on
a neatly folded napkin, with either melted butter or white
sauce in a tureen.
(I. C. D. G.)
150.
FRIED WHITING.
Small or moderate-sized whiting should be selected,
the skin taken off, and the tail put into the mouth so as
to be in the form of a ring. Well dry the fish, dip each
into beaten egg, and strew it over with very fine dried
crumbs of bread, and fry in boiling fat (enough to com-
pletely cover the fish) till of a pale brown colour (about
ten minutes).
(I. C. D. G.)
151.
BOILED PLAICE.
Large plaice is best for boiling; put it into plenty of
hot water, with a tablespoonful of salt and a wineglass-
ful of vinegar; boil up quickly, skim, and then simmer
gently for twenty or twenty-five minutes. Serve with
either shrimp sauce or melted butter in a tureen.
(I. C. G. E.)


RECIPES.
152.
ENGLISH SAUCE.
This is the one sauce by which we are known. But
there is room for improvement even in this solitary one,
for it is not difficult to bring to mind the pasty abomina-
tions usually served under this name. The following
method will be found satisfactory. Mix until quite
smooth equal proportions of flour and butter, with
boiling milk or water; add a very little salt, white
pepper and a mere suggestion of nutmeg. Let it boil
for two or three minutes and pass it through the strainer.
Keep it hot until wanted, and just before removing from
the fire add a little cream and stir in with the whisk a
good-sized piece of fresh butter; it must not boil after
this butter is added, but be served at once.
For vegetables, such as cauliflower or asparagus, add
lemon juice or white wine vinegar.
153.
BOILED SOLE.
A sole for boiling should weigh at least two pounds;
it must be well scaled, but the skin left on both sides.
Put it into plenty of cold water, with a tablespoonful
of salt and a tablespoonful of vinegar. Boil up quickly,
skim, then simmer for a quarter of an hour. Serve
upon a folded napkin, the white side uppermost, and
with either melted butter, white, or shrimp sauce in a
tureen.
(I. C. G.)


RECIPES.
156.
FILLETS OF SOLES, WITH MUSSEL SAUCE.
Fillet a pair of moderate-sized soles; wash and
wipe them dry, rub them over with lemon juice and
let them stand for an hour. Clean two quarts of
mussels; put them into a saucepan with half a clove
of garlic, a blade of mace, a laurel leaf, four sprigs of
parsley, an inch of thin lemon peel, one clove, two
all-spice, and a dessertspoonful of salt (no water), shake
the pan constantly till the mussels open, then turn
them into an earthen pan. Pull out the weed from
under the black tongue, and remove the beard from
each mussel; strain the liquor; put the soles into a
stewpan with half a gill of the liquor, two ounces
of butter, and a wineglassful of madeira or marsala;
boil up quickly; then simmer for fifteen minutes. Put
the remainder of the mussel liquor into a small sauce-
pan, boil up, and skim ; put in the mussels, boil for two
minutes; then add the beaten yolks of three fresh eggs
with half a gill of thick cream ; stir till smooth. Lay
the soles neatly on a hot dish, pour the sauce over, and
serve at once.
(I. C. G. E.)
157.
FILLETS OF SOLE AU GRATIN.
Cut the sole into small fillets, skin them, season
them with pepper and salt, put them on a buttered dish,
-one nice enough to send to the table, cover them
thickly with breadcrumbs and a little grated cheese


RECIPES.
89
160.
TO STEW OYSTERS.
Open, and separate the liquor from them, strain the
liquor and put with the oysters a bit of mace and
lemon peel, and a few white peppers. Simmer them
very gently, and put some cream and a little flour and
butter. Serve with sippets.
(I. C. D. G.)
161.
BOILED OYSTERS.
Let the shells be nicely cleaned, boil four minutes,
and serve in them; to be eaten with cold butter.
(I. C. D. G.)
162.
TO SCALLOP OYSTERS.
Put six or eight oysters (large) into a scallop shell, or
saucer, with plenty of bread crumbs, season with pepper,
a little salt, nutmeg, and a small piece of butter, moisten
with their own liquor. Put a few little bits of butter
on the top, and bake before the fire in a Dutch oven
till a nice light brown; ten minutes to a quarter of
an hour.
(I. C. G.)
163.
OYSTER LOAVES.
Open them and save the liquor, washing the oysters
in it. Then strain it through a sieve, put into a stew-


90
FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
pan with a bit of butter and flour, white pepper, a
scrape of nutmeg, and a little cream. Stew the oysters
gently, and cut in dice; put into rolls sold for the
purpose.
(C. G.)
164.
OYSTER PATTIES.
Put a fine puff crust into small patty pans, and cover
with paste, with a bit of bread in each ; against they are
baked have oysters ready to fill in, taking out the beards.
Beard the oysters, cut the other parts in small dice,
and put into small stewpan with a grate of nutmeg,
a little white pepper and salt, a morsel of lemon peel
cut so small as hardly to be seen, a little cream, a little
of the oyster liquor. Simmer a few minutes before
you fill the crusts.
(C. G.)
165.
OYSTER PIE.
As you open the oysters, separate them from the
liquor, which strain ; parboil them after taking off the
beards. Parboil some sweetbreads, and cutting them
in slices, lay them and the oysters in layers in a pie-
dish, season lightly with salt, pepper, and mace. Then
put in half a teacup of liquor and the same of gravy.
Bake in a slow oven; and before you serve, add a tea-
cup of cream, a little more oyster liquor, and cup of
white gravy, all warmed, but not boiled.
(C. G.)


94
FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
173.
GENOA SAUCE.
Clean and bone four anchovies, put them into a mortar
with a tablespoonful of capers, a quarter of a clove of
garlic, a teaspoonful of curry powder, a saltspoonful of
flour of mustard, and pound till quite smooth ;
moisten with a wineglassful of marsala, a wineglass-
ful of the caper vinegar, and three wineglassfuls of
cold water; put this into a saucepan and boil up.
Knead a tablespoonful of baked flour with a quarter
of a pound of butter; skim the sauce, stir in the
thickening, boil fast for ten minutes, strain, and serve.
(C. G.)
174.
NAPLES SAUCE.
Peel and shred four shalots, the third of a clove of
garlic, half a gill of fresh-boiled and picked shrimps,
two fine anchovies, and a tablespoonful of capers. Put
them into an enamelled saucepan with the strained
juice of two lemons, and stir over the fire for ten
minutes. Add three-quarters of a pint of stock, a
small blad,, of mace, one clove, and half a grain of
cayenne. Boil gently for twenty minutes; knead two
tablespoonfuls of baked flour with six ounces of good
butter, and stir in. Boil five minutes, strain through a
fine hair sieve, put it again into the saucepan, add the
strained juice of another lemon, and when on the point
of boiling, take it off the fire, and stir in quickly a gill
of thick fresh cream. Serve immediately. (C. G.)


96
FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
177.
OYSTER SAUCE.
Take off the beards of two dozen fresh-opened oysters ;
put the oysters into a basin of cold water with the
strained juice of a lemon in it; boil the beards in the
liquor with a small blade of mace for ten minutes ;
knead three ounces of butter with a tablespoonful of
baked flour, strain the liquor, stir in the thickening,
boil five minutes, drain the oysters, put them into the
sauce, simmer five minutes, stir in half a gill of thick
fresh cream, and serve at once.
178.
COD WITH POTATO WALL.
Divide the cold cod into flakes, take off the skin, and
remove all the bones. To half a pound, add a salt-
spoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of white pepper,
and half a grain of cayenne. Boil six mealy potatoes,
mash them quite smooth; add two ounces of dissolved
butter, two saltspoonfuls of salt, and the tenth part of
a nutmeg, grated. Put a layer of potato on the dish,
place the fish on it, and cover over with the rest of the
potatoes. Smooth the top over with a knife, and bake
in a moderate oven for twenty minutes. Serve in the
same dish.
(I. C. D. G. E.)


98
FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
181.
COD ROE AND COD LIVER, ..
Take a cod's liver and roe, cut open the skin which
surrounds it; put the eggs in a basin, pour water
over them, mashing them with the hand, to separate
them, throwing away the water ; add half a pound of
salt, and a teaspoonful of pepper; let them soak all
night, afterwards washing them well in two or three
waters, leaving about a gill at the bottom; then put
about two pounds of cod liver over it cut in six or
eight pieces, putting the stewpan either on a very slow
fire or in an oven for one hour; then take out the liver,
which serve as usual. Add about a gill of melted
butter to the roe, when it will be ready. (1. C. G.)
182.
COD'S HARD ROE.
Tie a cod's roe in a cloth, place in a pan two quarts
of water and two teaspoonfuls of salt; put in the roe,
boil gently for one hour, take it out, cut off as much as
you require, put it in a dish, pour over parsley and
butter, and serve; or egg, or plain sauce, with a little
butter and pepper.
(C. G.)


100
FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
turbot will require about three-quarters of an hour; one
of eight pounds, half an hour; and a small one, twenty
niinutes. Serve on a napkin, and with lobster sauce in
a tureen.
(I. C. D. G.)
BSTI
186.
LOBSTER SAUCE.
Take the meat out of the tail and claws of a fine
fresh-boiled hen lobster; cut it into pieces the third of
an inch square. Break up the head and shell, bruise a
saltspoonful of live spawn, put them into a saucepan
with a pint of water and a blade of mace, and boil for
twenty minutes; strain through a fine sieve; put the
liquor into a saucepan. Knead six ounces of butter
with two tablespoonfuls of baked flour and stir in. Boil
a quarter of an hour, add the pieces of lobster and a
dessertspoonful of strained lemon juice. Boil five
minutes more, stir in a wineglassful of thick cream, and
serve.
(C. G.)
187.
ANCHOVY TOAST WITH WHITE SAUCE.
Boil half a pint of new milk with a bay leaf and a
laurel leaf; beat six eggs, leaving out two of the whites,
take out the leaves, and mix the eggs and milk together.
Add a gill of thick fresh cream, and stir over a gentle
fire till it begins to thicken; let it stand to get cold;
stir it frequently while cooling. Scald ten anchovies,
scrape them, and remove the bones; pound the fish to
a smooth paste, cut two rounds of bread, without crust,


RECIPES.
101
off a small loaf, one day old, toast it on both sides, and
well butter it with fresh butter; spread each piece of
bread with the anchovy paste, lay one on the other, and
cut them into six pieces. Pour over the white sauce
and serve.
Note.—The bread should be half an inch thick.
. (I. C. G.)
188.
TURBOT EN Coquilles.
Turbot that has been left from the day before will do
quite as well for this dish as fresh turbot. If fresh,
boil until tender in salt and water, let it get cold, then
remove the meat from the bone, shredding it finely,
Procure a dozen scallop shells, and put a tablespoonful
of the fish in each ; have ready some cream sauce, pour
enough into each shell to cover the fish, spread over the
top some grated cheese and bread crumbs, and finish
with small pieces of butter. Bake in a quick oven
until a nice golden brown; serve at once. Sole or plaice
can also be cooked in this way.
(C. G.)
189.
BRILL.
Brill is dressed precisely as turbot, and the same
· sauce served with it.
(I. C. D. G.)
190.
BROILED MACKEREL.
Split the mackerel down the back with a very sharp
knife; season each fish with half a saltspoonful of salt, the


102
FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
same of black pepper, and the strained juice of half a
lemon, and let them stand for two hours. Dip them into
dissolved butter (for each half an ounce), and broil over
a clear fire for ten to twelve minutes. A folding
gridiron is best, as they require much care in turning.
Serve with or without chives, butter sauce poured
over.
(I. C. G.)
191.
BOILED MACKEREL.
Mackerel must be perfectly fresh. Put it into nearly
boiling water, with a tablespoonful of salt; boil up,
then simmer gently for a quarter of an hour or eighteen
minutes, according to the size of the fish ; be careful
to skim. Serve on a folded napkin, and with fennel
sauce.
(I. C. D. G.)
192.
SOUSED MACKEREL.
Mix half a pint of the best vinegar with half a pint
of water, six peppercorns, two allspice, half a grain of
cayenne, a tablespoonful of salt, and a bay leaf; boil
for five minutes. Split the mackerel (which has been
boiled) down the back, take out the bone; lay the fish
in a deep dish and when the pickle is nearly cold, strain
it over; let it remain twelve hours before serving.
Serve on a flat dish, and garnish with sprigs of fennel.
(I. C. G.)


RECIPES.
103
193.
FENNEL SAUCE.
Dip a bunch of fennel into boiling salt and water
and boil for two minutes ; squeeze out the water, and
chop the fennel quite fine (leaving out the stalks); knead
three ounces of butter with a tablespoonful of baked
flour, and stir into half a pint of boiling water. Boil
ten minutes, stir in a tablespoonful of the chopped
fennel, and serve at once.
194.
BOILED HADDOCK WITH ANCHOVY SAUCE.
Well wash the fish, and rub it over with a table-
spoonful of vinegar and a dessertspoonful of salt; let
it remain one hour. Put it into plenty of cold water
with a dessertspoonful of salt; boil up quickly, skim,
and simmer as gently as possible till done. A moderate-
sized fish will require a quarter of an hour, a large one
about twenty-five minutes; if overdone, it becomes hard
and tasteless. Serve on a neatly folded napkin, with
anchovy sauce in a tureen.
(I. C. D. G.)
195.
BOILED TROUT.
Put the fish into nearly boiling water with a table-
spoonful of salt, boil up quickly, then simmer till done.
A trout weighing one pound will require twelve minutes;


104
FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
two pounds, fifteen minutes ; three pounds, twenty
minutes. After the water boils, skimming must be
carefully attended to. Serve on a neatly folded napkin,
with a tureen of good melted butter, unless other sauce
be ordered.
(I. C. D. G.)
196.
BOILED SKATE.
Put the fish into plenty of cold water with a table-
spoonful of salt and a tablespoonful of vinegar. Boil
up quickly, skim, and simmer for five minutes. Serve
immediately on a neatly folded napkin, with either of
the following sauces in a tureen. (I. C. D. G.)
197.
WHITE SAUCE FOR SKATE.
Knead three ounces of butter with a dessertspoonful
of baked flour, and stir into a gill of boiling water, boil
five minutes. Add the strained juice of a lemon.
198.
DISSOLVED BUTTER FOR SKATE.
Dissolve a quarter of a pound of butter with a table-
spoonful of vinegar and a teaspoonful of finely chopped
parsley; simmer three minutes, and serve.


108
FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
just on the boil, skim well, and let it simmer half an
hour. Serve on a napkin, with egg-sauce in a tureen,
and parsnips in a vegetable dish. (I. C. G. E.)
207.
EGG SAUCE.
Boil six eggs for ten minutes, cut them into pieces
the size of a pea; knead a quarter of a pound of butter
with a tablespoonful of baked flour, and stir into half a
pint of boiling water. Boil ten minutes, put in the
eggs, boil three minutes more, and serve.
208.
POTTED TROUT.
Split six or eight moderate-sized fish, take out the
bones, cut off the heads, tails, and fins. Well wash and
wipe the trout; pack them (the backs uppermost) in
a pie-dish that will just contain them by pressing. Put
into a piece of muslin a bay and a laurel leaf, two
cloves, four allspice, eight peppercorns, two chillies, and
nalf an inch of ginger; lay this bag on the fish. Add
tlree saltspoonfuls of dry salt, and ten ounces of good
butter in slices. Cover the dish with strong white
paper, tie it closely down, and bake in a slow oven for
an hour and three quarters. Take out the bag, keep the
fish in a cool place till required. Serve cold.
(I. C. D. G.)


RECIPES.
109
209.
POTTED LOBSTER.
The lobsters must be quite fresh. Take out the meat
and pound it to a smooth paste ; season (to half a pound)
with a saltspoonful of good anchovy sauce, three-quarters
of a saltspoonful of white pepper, a grain of cayenne,
the eighth part of a nutmeg, grated, and three ounces
of dissolved butter. Pound till well mixed, then press
the lobster into pots or a small pie-dish, and pour over
two ounces of dissolved butter. When the butter is
set, it is ready for use.
(I. C. G.)
210.
POTTED SHRIMPS.
Take off the shells of three quarts of fresh-boiled
shrimps, season with the sixth part of a nutmeg, grated,
two grains of cayenne, a saltspoonful of white pepper,
and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, dissolved.
Press the shrimps into pots or a small pie-dish; pour
over the top two ounces of dissolved butter; when
firm, they are fit for use.
(I. C. G.)
211.
MUSSELS, PLAIN BOILED.
Clean the shells with a brush, remove the weed, and
wash the mussels in several waters. Put them into a
large saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of salt (no
water), shake the pan till they are done, which is known
by the shells opening; turn them into a tureen and
send to table at once.
(I. C. D. E.)


110
FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
212.
SCOLLOPED MUSSELS.
Boil them as directed in the foregoing receipt. Pull
out the weed from each mussel (it will be found under the
black tongue); season (to one pound) with a saltspoonful
of pepper, the sixth part of a nutmeg, grated, the grated
rind of half a lemon, and a grain of cayenne. Put
four ounces of crumb of bread, one day old, into a clean
cloth, and rub it to a fine dust, season with half a salt-
spoonful of salt and the same of pepper. Put a layer of
crumbs into a flat dish, place the mussels on them, pour
over an ounce of dissolved butter, cover closely with
crumbs, add three tablespoonfuls of the mussels' liquor,
dropped equally over the surface, baste with three
ounces of dissolved butter, and bake in a quick oven
for ten or twelve minutes. Serve in the same dish.
(I. C. D. E.)
213.
STEWED MUSSELS.
Well clean and boil the mussels as directed, remove
the weed from under the black tongue of each mussel;
take the third of a pint of the liquor, boil in it a bay
leaf, two sprigs of parsley, a small sprig of thyme, and
a chopped shalot; knead three ounces of butter with
two dessertspoonfuls of baked flour; strain the liquor,
stir in the butter, boil ten minutes ; put in the mussels,
add a gill of good cream, simmer two minutes,
stirring all the time, and serye.
(I. C. D. E.)


112
FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
216.
SCALLOPED FISH.
Season four ounces of fine crumbs of bread with half
a saltspoonful of salt, half a grain of cayenne, and the
tenth part of a nutmeg, grated. Remove the skin and
bones from any cold fish (except mackerel or fresh
herrings), and divide about three-quarters of a pound
into neat "pieces three-quarters of an inch square.
Season with a saltspoonful of salt (unless it be salt
fish), half a saltspoonful of white pepper, and half a
grain of cayenne. Mix with it either two tablespoon-
fuls of sauce or two ounces of dissolved butter. Put a
layer of crumbs into a dish or into scallop shells, lay in
the fish, cover it thickly with the crumbs, pour over
the top two ounces of dissolved butter, and bake in a
quick oven, or before the fire, for a quarter of an hour.
Six well-mashed mealy potatoes may be substituted for
bread crumbs. In this case use two ounces of butter
in mashing
(I. C. G.)
217.
FISH SALAD.
A nice dish may be made with all kinds of cold fish
and some kinds of shell-fish, but the following way of
dressing is for a small lobster salad, and will do for
all fish salads. Have the bowl half filled with any
kind of salad herb you like, either endive or lettuce, &c.
Then break a lobster in two, open the tail, extract the
meat in one piece, break the claws, cut the meat of


114
FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
of dissolved butter, and bake for an hour in a moderate
oven, basting constantly, and serve garnished with cut
lemon.
(I. C. D. G.)
220.
CALF'S SWEETBREAD, STEWED.
One sweetbread, three-quarters of a pint of veal
broth or stock; soak the sweetbread in warm water for
one hour, then boil for ten minutes, drain, and simmer
gently in the broth for half an hour. Dish, and thicken
the liquor in which it was stewed with flour and butter,
seasoning with half a blade of mace, pepper and salt to
taste, make quite hot, but do not boil, and pour over
the sweetbread, and garnish with sippets of toast.
(I. C. D.)
221.
CALF'S SWEETBREAD, BAKED.
One sweetbread; soak in warm water for one hour,
then put into boiling water and simmer for ten minutes,
take up and drain, brush over with egg, sprinkle with
bread crumbs, dip in egg again, and then into more
bread crumbs; drop over a little oiled butter, and bake
in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour.
Serve on toast and pour round, not over, a good brown
gravy.
(T. C. D.)
222.
SWEETBREADS, WITH WHITE SAUCE.
Trim off the pith and skin, and put the sweetbreads
into boiling water for five minutes, and then into cold
for an hour; lard them thickly with fat bacon, rub a


RECIPES
115
small bright stewpan with garlic ſour times across the
bottom); put in a quarter of a pound of fresh butter,
a chopped shallot, a slice of carrot, a bay leaf, a laurel
leaf, the thin rind of half a lemon, a clove, two allspice,
a saltspoonful of loaf sugar, half a saltspoonful of salt,
the same of white pepper; put in the sweetbreads and
half a pint of new milk, boil up quickly, and then
simmer gently for an hour; baste frequently with the
sauce. Take out the sweetbreads, put them in a
moderate oven for eight minutes ; skim and strain the
sauce, add the yolks of two eggs, beaten with a table-
spoonful of cream, stir over the fire for two minutes,
place the sweetbreads on a dish, pour over the sauce,
and serve.
(I. C. D.)
223.
SWEETBREADS, ROASTED.
Parboil two large ones ; when cold, lard them with
bacon, and roast them in a Dutch oven. For sauce,
plain butter and mushroom ketchup. (I. C. D. G.)
224.
TRIPE FOR CONVALESCENTS.
About one pound of fresh (dressed) tripe ; wash it in
cold water, and cut it into neat square pieces; take out
nearly all the fat. Put it into a bright stewpan with
a small saltspoonful of salt, the same of sifted sugar,
and of fresh-made mustard, and about a pint of milk.
Boil up slowly, skim, then simmer gently for three
hours ; skim and stir frequently, to prevent the tripe
I 2


RECIPES.
117
of pepper, a saltspoonful of chopped parsley, the tenth
part of a nutmeg, grated, and one small shallot, finely
chopped. Have two young pigeons, and put half of the
stuffing into each, roast them for ten minutes. Peel
twelve button onions, and fry them till slightly browned
in an ounce of butter, dredge in a tablespoonful of
baked flour, stir till well mixed, then add half a pint
of good stock, a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup,
a teaspoonful of soy, a teaspoonful of vinegar, a salt-
spoonful of good anchovy sauce, and two tablespoonfuls
of port wine; put in the pigeons and simmer gently for
half an hour. Serve very hot.
(I. C. D.)
227.
STEWED MUSHROOMS AND PIGEONS.
Cut the pigeons up as for a fricassee, put them on the
fire in a stew pan with enough stock or water to cover
them. When nearly done add an ounce of butter, a
little flour, pepper, salt, chopped parsley, and some
mushrooms (if the mushrooms are large cut them into
four pieces); stew twenty minutes, and then serve.
(I. C. G.)
228.
BOILED FOWL WITH PARSLEY SAUCE.
Dip the fowl in hot water for one minute, and rub
it well over with a cut lemon; this process will inake
it white. Cover the breast with a thin slice of fat bacon,
tie the fowl in a clean white cloth, put it into a sauce-
pan (breast uppermost) with just sufficient cold water
to cover it, boil up quickly, then simmer gently till


RECIPES.
119
230.
CHICKEN JELLY.
Put half a raw chicken in a coarse cloth and pound
with a mallet bones and meat together; then put it in
a covered vessel with enough water to cover it well ; let
it simmer slowly until the liquor is reduced about one
half and the meat falls to pieces when stirred. Strain
and press through a cullender, and afterwards through
a coarse cloth; salt to taste, then put it again on the
fire to simmer about five minutes longer ; after it is
cold skim it. It is best to keep it on ice. (I. C. D.)
231.
MAYONNAISE OF FOwl.
Wash two fine fresh-cut lettuces (or any salad in
season), and four spring onions ; leave them in water
for two hours. Boil four fresh eggs for twelve minutes,
and when cold pound the yolks to powder; season with
a teaspoonful of flour of mustard and half a saltspoon-
ful of salt, add the beaten yolks of two fresh eggs, pound
till in a paste, then drop in by degrees six tablespoon-
fuls of the best salad oil, three teaspoonfuls of tarragon
vinegar, and two tablespoonfuls of French vinegar;
continue to stir till the sauce is like a thick smooth
cream; stand it in a cool place, or on ice, for an hour.
Cut about ten ounces of cold boiled fowl into neat
pieces a quarter of an inch thick and an inch and a
half square. Wipe each leaf of the salad, and break it
into inch pieces, cut the onions quite small, put half of


RECIPES.
121
233.
CALF'S HEAD STEWED, WITH OYSTER SAUCE.
Soak half of a small calf's head (without the skin) for
one hour in cold water with a teacupful of vinegar in
it. Well wash it in two or three waters, put it into a
stewpan with two onions, a bay leaf, a laurel leaf, a
sprig of thyme, a sprig of marjoram, two sage leaves,
four sprigs of parsley, two cloves, four allspice, six
black peppercorns, half a carrot, and a pint and a half
of cold water. Boil up quickly, skim, then simmer
gently for an hour and a half, skimming constantly.
Take out the head, strain the liquor, add to it three
tablespoonfuls of baked flour and the strained liquor of
three dozen of oysters ; boil up, put the head in again,
and continue to simmer for three-quarters of an hour
longer, add three dozen of oysters, simmer seven
minutes, and serve.
(I. C. D.)
234.
CALF's LIVER LARDED.
First carefully lard the liver by passing strips of
larding pork, which is firm white fat pork cut two
inches long and a quarter of an inch square, in rows
along the surface of the liver, placing the strips of pork
in the split end of a larding needle, and with it taking
a stitch about a quarter of an inch deep and one inch
long in the surface of the liver, leaving the ends of the
pork projecting equally. The rows must be inserted
regularly until the surface is covered. Lay the liver in


124
FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
until it boils, then remove the cover. With a wooden
spoon press the spinach under the water as fast as it
rises to the top; boil it until tender. Drain it well and
let cold water run over it while in the cullender; chop
it fine and pass it through a sieve. Heat two quarts of
milk, add the spinach to it, season well, adding a very
little nutmeg, let it boil up once and serve with crusts.
(I. C. D. G.)
238.
BEAN SOUP, PURÉE D'HARICOT.
Soak some beans over night in plenty of warm water.
When wanted, put them into a pot with cold water, a
carrot, onion or leek, a faggot of sweet herbs, and salt;
cook until they are perfectly tender. Take out the
carrot and herbs, drain the beans, but not too dry, pound
them in a mortar, and pass through a hair sieve; add a
good-sized piece of butter, mix all well together, and add
stock (of mutton or veal), or if you have no stock, milk
or the water they were boiled in, sufficient to make of
proper thickness, which must be according to taste.
The excellence of this soup depends upon the way in
which it is done, and the care bestowed upon it. The
cook often spoils it for want of straining. (I. C. E.)
239.
VEGETABLE SOUP.
Wash, trim, and cut into shreds an inch long a small
cabbage, two large carrots, two turnips, a head of celery,
two leeks, three onions, a large endive or a lettuce. Put


RECIPES.
125
them into an iron pot with half a pound of good butter,
a tablespoonful of moist sugar, a teaspoonful of salt, a
teaspoonful of curry powder, and let them fry till of a
good brown colour; stir constantly to prevent burning.
Add two quarts of water, and boil moderately fast for
two hours, skimming frequently. Put into the tureen a
wineglassful of Marsala, and a teaspoonful of tarragon
vinegar. Pour in the soup and serve at once.
(I. C. G.)
240.
ONION SOUP, WHITE,
Peel and slice six large onions and four large potatoes ;
put them into a stewpan with two quarts of water, a
bay leaf, a laurel leaf, a tablespoonful of loaf sugar, a tea-
spoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of white pepper, and the
crumb of a French roll. Boil fast for two hours; then
rub the soup through a fine sieve. Put it again into
the stewpan; boil up. Beat the yolks of three fresh
cggs with two tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese,
and stir in for two minutes. Add half a pint of cream
and serve at once.
(I. C. G. E.)
241.
CHEAP PEA SOUP.
Put into a stewpan two ounces of dripping, one
quarter of a pound of streaky bacon, cut into dice, two
good-sized onions sliced; fry them gently until brownish,
then add one large or two small turnips, the same of
carrots, one leek and one head of celery, all cut thin and


RECIPES.
129
into the pan with half a teaspoonful of sugar, half a
teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter of a pound of well
washed rice. Boil for three-quarters of an hour, stirring
occasionally.
(I. C. G.)
249.
MILK SOUP WITH VERMICELLI.
Throw into two pints of boiling milk a small quantity
of salt, and then drop lightly into it two ounces of good
fresh vermicelli; keep the milk stirred as this is added,
to prevent its gathering into lumps, and continue to
stir it very frequently, from fifteen to twenty minutes or
until it is perfectly tender. The addition of a little
pounded sugar and powdered cinnamon, or any other
flavouring that is desirable. (I. C. D. G. E.)
The different soups of the Société Générale des
Potages Économique are excellent, and can be procured
in canisters, or in packets, the latter forming a meal for
one person. They are also very economical :—“It is only
necessary to boil one of these preparations with water
for a few minutes, and a soup of excellent quality is
obtained at a cost of not more than three-halfpence
per head. The soups are, we think, likely to be very
generally useful, particularly in the summer when all
unnecessary cooking should be avoided as much as
possible.”—Lancet.
The “ Ris au Gras,” “ Consommé,” “ Perles du Japon,"
and “Fromentine,” are especially adapted for invalids.


130
FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
250.
SALADS.
The vegetables should be placed in a wire basket, well
shaken in the water, and let stand until wanted. These
two points, dryness and the absence of the knife, are two
most important ones to the success of the salad. If the
long lettuce is used, the tough centre of the leaves
should be removed, as it detracts from the delicacy of the
salad. In dressing all salads, have ever in mind the old
Spanish saying, “Be a miser with vinegar, a councillor
with salt, and a spendthrift with oil.” Let the oil be of
the very best Lucca ; & poor oil is the ruin of any salad.
With this simple dressing it can be quickly and neatly
done at the table, as it is better for not standing. There
are many substitutes offered for this oil dressing, but
eschew them all if you want a true salad. To those who
like these mixtures we can only say—we wish you
did not.
The vegetables generally used are cos lettuce, cabbage
lettuce, endive, beet-root (boiled), celery, cucumber,
spring onions, shalots, watercresses, radishes, tarragon,
chervil, chives, mustard and cress, &c. Every kind of
salad must be quite fresh cut.
251.
SALAD DRESSING.
Boil three fresh eggs for ten minutes; when cold
rub the yolks to powder, season with half a saltspoonful


RECIPES.
131
of white pepper, a saltspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of
flour of mustard, a saltspoonful of sifted loaf sugar
Mix in the beaten yolk of one egg, add by degrees four
tablespoonfuls of salad (Lucca) oil, and, drop by drop,
two teaspoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, and one table-
spoonful and a half of vinegar. Be careful to stir the
same way all the time; the dressing should look like
rich cream. Pour it on to the salad, stir lightly with a
fork and spoon, and serve immediately,
252.
SALAD DRESSING, WITH CREAM AND LEMON
JUICE.
Follow the foregoing receipt, using cream and strained
fresh lemon juice instead of oil and vinegar.
253
WATER-CRESS SALAD.
Wash the cress and drain well ; add a chopped green
onion, two radishes, one spoonful of horse-radish, and
a few leaves of lettuce. Dress with salt, pepper, oil,
and vinegar—the oil to be lavishly used.
(G.)
254.
WINTER SALAD.
Equal proportions of celery, boiled beetroot, raw white
cabbage, and cooked fowl or rabbit, all chopped fine
together; dress with mayonnaise and serve with a
garnish of lettuce leaves. This will be found a very
delightful salad, but for those whose digestion is delicate,
the cabbage had best be omitted.
(G.)
K 2


132
FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
255.
ENDIVE AND CRESS.
The Batavian endive is not quite so bitter as the very
curly endive, and on this account is much preferred.
This, with a few water-cresses and a piece of bread
rubbed with garlic—which gives a good flavour of onion
without its actual presence-dressed with oil, pepper,
salt, and vinegar, is a very nice salad.
(G.)
256.
VEGETABLE SALAD.
This receipt we have found very good when it is
difficult to get fresh vegetables. Boil a small cabbage
until tender, let it get cold, cut it into pieces, add a
chopped beetroot, some sliced boiled potatoes, and some
capers, and dress with oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt.
(G.)
257
POTATO SALAD.
Slice some fresh boiled kidney potatoes before they
become cold, chop fine one or two green onions or a
little garlic, a little water-cress, and a few lettuce leaves;
dress with plenty of oil, salt, pepper, and vinegar, and
one well-beaten egg.
(G.)
258.
LOBSTER SALAD.
One hen lobster, lettuces, endive, small salad (what-
ever is in season), a little chopped beetroot, two hard-


RECIPES.
135
261.
CAULIFLOWER.
Remove all leaves, cut into pieces and boil with a
little salt until tender, then break into pieces, place
part of them in a dish, cover with butter, bread
crumbs, and a little grated cheese (the ordinary cheese
will do, though half Parmesan and half Gruyère are
best), then more cauliflower, and so on, until the dish
is full, the top being of course bread crumbs, cheese,
and butter; the last should be here liberally applied,
and when baked for twenty minutes, it should be of a
golden brown.
(C. G.)
262.
GREEN PEAS.
The peas must be young, fresh gathered, and fresh
shelled. A pint and a half of peas will require three
pints of water with a tablespoonful of sugar and a tea-
spoonful of salt dissolved in it; put the peas in, with
a good sprig of fresh mint, while the water boils
rapidly; keep the lid off the saucepan, and boil fast
for fifteen or twenty minutes; drain in a cullender, take
out the mint, turn the peas on to a hot dish, put an
ounce of fresh butter in the centre, and send to table
immediately.
(I. C. D. G.)
263.
FRENCH OR SCARLET BEANS.
Strip off the strings by breaking off each end ; cut
the beans into shreds an inch and a half long and the


RECIPES.
137
266.
WINTER CARROTS.
Scrape the carrots and cut them in halves, and the
thick ends into four: put them into cold water for an
hour; boil in plenty of water for two hours ; drain,
and serve either as garnish to boiled beef or in a vege-
table dish.
(I. C. G.)
267.
MASHED TURNIPS.
Take six moderate-sized turnips, pare them neatly,
and put them into cold water to blanch for half an hour;
then put them into plenty of boiling water, and boil
about half an hour; drain and press out all the water,
and rub the turnips through a wire sieve; put them
into a stewpan with half a gill of thick cream and a
saltspoonful of salt; stir till boiling hot, then serve.
(I. C. G.)
268.
PARSNIPS.
Parsnips aro not particularly tempting to the sceker
after a nice dish, but here are two ways in which they
can be made palatable when other vegetables are difficult
to get. 1. Boil until tender, drain off the water, cut
them into slices, put a layer of a quarter of a pound of
salt pork on the bottom of the pot, put the parsnips
in and fry until brown. Serve the pork with them.


138
FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
2. Prepare the parsnips as above, fry to a delicate
brown in butter, make a nice gravy from good stock,
season well, pour it over the parsnips, and serve hot.
(I. C. G.)
269.
ASPARAGUS.
• Scrape off the outer skin, cut off the end of the
stalk, leaving the asparagus about seven inches long;
tie it up into bundles with tape and let it remain
in cold water for two hours. Put it into plenty of
boiling water with a tablespoonful of salt, and boil, un-
covered, for twenty minutes or half an hour, according
to the size of the asparagus. Cut a round of bread
half an inch thick, take off the crust, toast the bread,
pour over it while on the fork a cupful of the water the
asparagus is boiling in, spread it with butter on both
sides, and serve the asparagus on it, taking off the tape;
serve melted butter in a tureen. Knead three ounces
of butter with a teaspoonful of baked flour and stir
into half a pint of boiling water; boil a quarter of an
hour.
(I. C. D.)
270.
ASPARAGUS. (No. 2.)
Take some boiled asparagus, cut the ends and part of
each stalk, as far as eatable, into pieces about the size
of peas; put them into a stewpan with butter, a sprinkling
of flour, pepper, and a small cupful of the water they
were boiled in, let them simmer about five minutes, and


RECIPES.
139
add a gill of cream. The yolk of an egg beaten with
the cream adds to its richness.
Another way.- Prepare as above by cutting into
small pieces; have ready some scrambled eggs, with
which mix the asparagus, adding pepper and salt to
taste, and serve hot and as soon as possible after cooking,
as it does not improve by waiting.
(I. C.)
hot improve by soon as possibler and salt to
271.
SEA-KALE WITH WHITE SAUCE.
The kale must be perfectly fresh; well wash it, take
off the outer leaves, trim the root, tie it into bundles,
and put it into cold water for an hour; put it into a
saucepan of boiling water with a dessertspoonful of
salt, and boil rapidly (uncovered) for twenty minutes or
half an hour, according to the size of the kale. Serve
upon buttered toast (without crust). Knead a table-
spoonful of baked flour with two ounces of butter, and
stir into half a pint of boiling new milk ; boil ten
minutes, and serve in a tureen.
(I. C. G.)
272.
SEA-KALE WITH PARMESAN CHEESE.
Sprinkle each piece of kale with a teaspoonful of
grated Parmesan cheese, a quarter of a saltspoonful of
flour of mustard, and the same of pepper; lay the kale
on a flat dish, strew the top thickly with Parmesan,
pour over an ounce of dissolved butter, and bake in a
quick oven, or before the fire, for a quarter of an hour,
Serve in the same dish.
(I. C.)


140
FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
273.
BOILED LEEKS WITH WHITE SAUCE.
Trim off the roots and the outer leaves, cut the green
ends off, leaving the leeks six inches long; wash them
well, put them into boiling water with a tablespoonful
of salt and a dessertspoonful of vinegar, and boil (un-
covered) for three-quarters of an hour. Serve upon
hot buttered toast, without crust, and with white sauce
poured over them.
(I. C. D. G.)
274.
VEGETABLE MARROW WITH WHITE SAUCE.
Pare the marrows neatly, cut them into quarters
lengthways, take out the seeds and wipe the marrows
with a clean cloth, put them into boiling water with a
teaspoonful of salt and boil for ten or fifteen minutes.
Toast a round of bread, without crust, pour over a cup-
ful of the vegetable water, and butter the toast. Serve
the marrows upon it with the following melted butter
poured over. Knead three ounces of butter with a
tablespoonful of flour, and stir into half a pint of
boiling milk ; boil a quarter of an hour, stirring all the
time.
(I. C. G.)
275.
STEWED CELERY.
Take three fine heads of celery, fresh gathered, cut
off all the coarse outer leaves and trim the stem, cutting
it across one inch down; wash well, and let it remain


RECIPES
145
287.
STEWED LENTILS.
Take half a pound of lentils to one quart of rain
water, boil very quickly ; will crack out of husks when
done ; do not try to drain off the water. Take some
celery, cut it up into dice, .do the same with two
potatoes and two onions ; boil them separately, and pass
them through a colander; then mix them into the
lentils, and add salt and pepper.
(I. E.)
288.
HARICOT BEANS AND ONION SAUCE.
Soak one gill of haricot beans over night, put them
into plenty of cold water and boil them three hours,
drain off the water, add two saltspoonfuls of salt, one
saltspoonful of pepper, three ounces of butter, two large
Spanish onions (previously boiled) chopped into small
pieces, and one teacupful of good cream; simmer ten
minutes, stirring carefully, and serve. (I. E.)
289.
HARICOT BEANS.
Put a quart of beans into half a gallon of soft water
with one ounce of butter, simmer them slowly for
about three hours, drain them and put them into a stew-
pan, a little salt, pepper, chopped parsley, two ounces
of butter, and the juice of a lemon; place them on the
fire for a few minutes, stir well and serve. (C. E.)
L


RECIPES.
147
altogether into a stewpan or a pie-dish in the oven,
pepper and salt to taste, and cook for an hour and
a half.
(C. D.)
292.
MEALY PUDDINGS.
Get from the butcher some long skins for puddings,
wash them well in warm water, then lay them to soak
all night in cold water and salt; rinse them well.
Toast one pound of oatmeal to a light golden colour
before the fire or in the oven, stirring it to let it toast
equally. Chop half a pound of beef suet very fine,
also two large onions (parboiled); mix all well together
with half a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter of a tea-
spoonful of pepper. Tie the end of the pudding-skin
with thread, then put in enough of the mixture to make
it the length of a sausage; tie the skin again, but leave
room for the pudding to swell. Leave about an inch
of the skin, tie it again, then fill another, and so on.
(The space is to allow each pudding to be cut off with-
out letting out the mixture.) Have a pan with water
in it nearly boiling, and a little salt ; prick the puddings
all over with a darning-needle to prevent them bursting,
and boil them for twenty minutes to half an hour.
Serve hot.
(I. C. D. G.)
293.
MINCE COLLCPS.
Mince finely half a pound of uncooked beef, melt
and warm half an ounce of butter or dripping in a pan,
put the meat in it, and beat it about with a fork or


148
FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
wooden spoon till brown, but not hard. Break two
teaspoonfuls of flour into half a teacupful of cold
water, add this, and also two small boiled onions,
chopped ; stew all together for an hour, stirring frequently
to prevent the meat going into lumps. A quarter of
an hour before serving add half a saltspoonful of salt,
a quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, and one dessert-
spoonful of ketchup. Serve hot, and garnish with small
pieces of toast.
(I. C. D.)
294.
SCRAMBLED EGGS.
Break six eggs into the frying-pan with a little milk,
a tablespoonful or more of butter, a little salt, pepper,
and a very little nutmeg ; stir until thoroughly mixed
and the eggs begin to set; then take off the fire, serve
on buttered toast sprinkled with chopped ham, parsley,
or asparagus, either being very nice; or, if preferred,
alone in a deep dish with sippets of toast.
(I. C. D.)
295.
EGGS IN THE NEST.
Beat to a froth the whites of six eggs which have been
seasoned as for an omelette, and pour into a buttered
baking tin ; pour across it at equal distances six spoon-
fuls of cream, into each of which drop a yolk whole;
bake, but not too briskly, and serve hot.
(I. C. D.)


RECIPES.
149
296.
HOMINY AND CHEESE.
MINY AND
Put half a pound of hominy in water over night;
next day boil it with a pint of milk for half an
hour; then add half a pound of finely-chopped cheese,
mixing it thoroughly ; then put the whole into a stew-
pan, or pie-dish in the oven for ten minutes.
(I. C. D.)
297.
CHEESE STRAWS.
Half a pound of dried flour, a quarter of a pound of
butter, a quarter of a pound of grated Parmesan or
Gruyère cheese, a teaspoonful of flour of mustard, a salt-
spoonful of cayenne, and a saltspoonful of salt. Rub
the butter into the flour, then mix the whole well
together. Beat the whites of two eggs with a quarter
of a pint of cold water, and stir in enough to form a
firm paste; knead the paste well, then roll it out the
eighth of an inch thick, and cut it into straw-like
strips, about five inches long. Bake in a quick oven
till of a pale brown colour (about five minutes). Pile
them on a dish, and serve either hot or cold. Must
be kept in a dry place.
(I. C.)


156
FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
clear by reference to the diagram at the end of the book.
Here, in schematic form, will be seen the digestion of
starch converted into grape-sugar by the action of the
saliva, and so readily passing out of the stomach.
(Some stomachs resent the presence of undigested
starch, which hampers the gastric digestion. In the
stomach albuminoids are digested in an acid medium.
Finally, starch, albuminoids, and fats are digested in the
bowel by the action of pancreatic juice. Fat is
digested by emulsification, i.e. by being reduced to
minute particles which are small enough to enter the
lacteal orifices. In some persons the emulsification of
fat is defective. Even cod-liver oil is passed by the
bowel unchanged, and therefore of no use to the
invalid. Here an emulsion is absolutely necessary.
Nature furnishes this emulsion in milk and cream.
Many a digestion that loathes fat can tolerate a table-
spoonful of cream, with or without a little maraschino,
or other stomachic of allied character as dom, or curaçoa,
taken from an hour and a half to two hours after a
meal. But some persons do not like either; and often
cream is difficult to obtain. I have had preserved cream
sent me from beyond the Mississippi; some of it capital,
but much unfit for use, so that it could not be offered
to the public. I have tried all manner of made
emulsions, but they will not keep long enough to be a
commercial success. Freshly prepared they are good
and useful. The most complete success so far attained
is a condensed cream preserved by the addition of
maltose, made by Loeflund & Co. The cream is gathered
from alpine milk, and this condensed cream (Cremor
hordeatus Loeflundi) is a most palatable confection,


158
FOOD FOR THE INVALID.
not actually require them. Much of their utility depends
upon their being properly used. Malt-extracts given
after a meal are wasted. Malt-extracts, pepsin, and
pancreatic preparations compose this group of remedial
agents.
1. Malt-extracts.-In animals the starch of their food
is converted into soluble grape-sugar by the action of
the saliva. This comes first in the digestive process.
So rendered soluble it escapes from the stomach
readily. In some cases the stomach is offended by the
presence in it of quantities of undigested starch, which
impedes its action. Persons who cannot digest starch are
usually ill-nourished. When the digestion of starch
is defective a malt-extract is indicated. In the act of
malting grain the starch is converted into grape-sugar
by the action of a ferment in the seed, diastase.
Diastase in the saliva does the same with starch in the
mouth, and for a brief time in the stomach; but when
the stomach becomes acid in the act of digestion the
diastase is killed. The malt-extract must then be taken
as the adjuvant of the saliva : and consequently be added
to farinaceous food before this is taken into the mouth.
Or it may be taken synchronously, while the farinaceous
dish is being eaten. But to get the full advantage of
the artificial diastase it ought to be added to the
farinaceous dish, say a milk-pudding (without an egg in
it) before the latter is set on the table.
There is one caution to be observed. If the malt-
extract be added while the food is too hot to be eaten,
it will be killed. The food must be cool enough to sip,
else the malt-extract is wasted.
Another matter is this—when malt-extract is used