NYPL RESEARCH LIBRARIES
3 3433 01731568 4



AN
EX



ANNEX
Acton


3


MODERN COOKERY.
(Getor





MODERN COOKERY,
FOR PRIVATE FAMILIES,
REDUCED TO A SYSTEM OF EASY PRACTICE,
IN A SERIES OF
CAREFULLY TESTED RECEIPTS,
IN WHICH THE PRINCIPLES OF
BARON LIEBIG AND OTHER EMINENT WRITERS
HAVE BEEN AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE APPLIED AND EXPLAINED.
BY ELIZA ACTON.
“ It is the want of a scientific basis which has given rise to so many absurd
and hurtful methods of preparing food.”—DR. GREGORY.
NEWLY REVISED AND MUCH ENLARGED EDITION.
COPIOUSLY ILLUSTRATED.
LONDON:
LONGMANS, GREEN, READER, AND DYER.
1868.
Key?.


THE NEW YORK
PUBLIC LIBRARY
9:12 12
ASTOR, LENOX AND
TILDEN FOUNDATIONS.
1898
.


Dedicated
TO THX
YOUNG HOUSEKEEPERS
OF ENGLAND.


By the same Author,
In One Volume, fcp. 8vo. price 4s. 6d. cloth,
THE ENGLISH BREAD-BOOK,
for Domestic Use,
ADAPTED TO FAMILIES OF EVERY GRADE:
CONTAINING
PLAIN INSTRUCTIONS AND PRACTICAL RECEIPTS FOR MAKING
NUMEROUS VARIETIES OF BREAD;
WITH NOTICES OF THB
PRESENT SYSTEM OF ADULTERATION AND ITS CONSEQUENCES,
AND OF THE
IMPROVED BAKING PROCESSES AND INSTITUTIONS
ESTABLISHED ABROAD.
From the ATHENRUM.
Miss Acton, whose work on Modern our sanitary talk, we are obliged to
Cookery must be familiar to all good consume from day to day, than for each
housewives, is impressed with the fact, family to make its own bread. In this
that, important as bread is, and ever must book, Miss Acton shows that, in every
be, to English people, there are large house possessed of an oven, this can be
numbers who do not know how to make conveniently and cheaply done. All that
it. She has, therefore, stepped forward seems to be required is an ordinary modi-
with her great knowledge of all cooking cum of common sense and the energy to
arts, to instruct English people how to persevere in the experiment, and no one
make bread. We see no more effectual need suffer from the wretched adultera-
way of avoiding the miserable compound tion to which the bread in bakers' shops
ot four and alum, which, in spite of all appears to be universally submitted.
Prom the ECONOMIST.
This is a useful and practical little sally amongst modern female accom-
book, with plain directions for making plishments as could be wished, and though
bread on the smallest and simplest scale, we do not go quite so far as Mr. Cobbett,
and which may encourage the most in who says that every woman, high and
experienced to venture on a trial of home low, ought to know how to make bread;
made bread, in the superiority of which if she do not, she is a mere burden upon
to the general run of bakers' bread we the community; yet we quite agree with
beartily agree with Misg Acton; but it him in deploring the general ignorance on
must be good home-made bread; very the subject which is found among the
atrocious combinations under that name women of the labouring classes, especially
having presented themselves in our own in the southern counties of England.
limited experience. This, however, Miss There is no doubt that the bread bill-
Acton in the book before us does her best that formidable item in a poor man's
to remedy; and if her clear and sen housekeeping expenditure -- might be
sible rules are closely followed, we feel greatly reduced by the adoption of the
sure that the result will be satisfactory, as practice of making bread at home. We
much in an esthetic ag an economical wish Misg Acton's book the circulation
point of view. We fear that the art of and success that it deserves,
bread-making does not rank so univer-
London: LONGMAN, GREEN, and CO., Paternoster Row,


PREFACE.
It cannot be denied that an improved system of practical
domestic cookery, and a better knowledge of its first prin.
ciples, are still much needed in this country; where, from
ignorance, or from mismanagement in their preparation, the
daily waste of excellent provisions almost exceeds belief.
This waste is in itself a very serious evil where so large a
portion of the community often procure - as they do in
England—with painful difficulty, and with the heaviest labour,
even sufficient bread to sustain existence; but the amount
of positive disease which is caused amongst us by improper
food, or by food rendered unwholesome by a bad mode of
cooking it, seems a greater evil still. The influence of diet
upon health is indeed a subject of far deeper importance than
it would usually appear to be considered, if we may judge
by the profound indifference with which it is commonly
treated. It has occupied, it is true, the earnest attention of
many eminent men of science, several of whom have recently
investigated it with the most patient and laborious research,
the results of which they have made known to the world in
their writings, accompanied, in some instances, by information
of the highest value as to the most profitable and nutritious
modes of preparing various kinds of viands. In arranging
the present enlarged edition of this volume for publication,
I have gladly taken advantage of such of their instructions
those of Baron Liebig especially) as have seemed to me
adapted to its character, and likely to increase its real utility.
These, I feel assured, if carefully followed out, will much
assist our progress in culinary art, and diminish the unneces-


viii
PREFACE,
sary degree of expenditure which has hitherto attended its
operations; for it may safely be averred that good cookery is
the best and truest economy, turning to full account every
wholesome article of food, and converting into palatable
meals, what the iguorant either render uneatable, or throw
away in disdain. It is a popular error to imagine that what
is called good cookery is adapted only to the establishments
of the wealthy, and that it is beyond the reach of those who
are not affluent. On the contrary, it matters comparatively
little whether some few dishes, amidst an abundant variety,
be prepared in their perfection or not; but it is of the utmost
consequence that the food which is served at the more simply
supplied tables of the middle classes should all be well and
skilfully prepared, particularly as it is from these classes that
the men principally emanate to whose indefatigable industry,
high intelligence, and active genius, we are mainly indebted
for our advancement in science, in art, in literature, and in
general civilisation.
When both the mind and body are exhausted by the toils of
the day, heavy or unsuitable food, so far from recruiting their
enfeebled powers, prostrates their energies more completely,
and acts in every way injuriously upon the system; and it is
no exaggeration to add, that many a valuable life has been
shortened by disregard of this fact, or by the impossibility of
obtaining such diet as nature imperatively required. It may
be urged, that I speak of rare and extreme cases; but indeed
it is not so; and the impression produced on me by the
discomfort and the suffering which have fallen under
my own
observation, has rendered me extremely anxious to aid in
discovering an efficient remedy for them. With this object
always in view, I have zealously endeavoured to ascertain, and
to place clearly before my readers, the most rational and
healthful methods of preparing those simple and essential
kinds of nourishment which form the staple of our common
daily fare; and have occupied myself but little with the
elegant superfluities or luxurious novelties with which I might
serhaps more attractively, though not more usefully, have


PREFACE.
LX
filled my pages. Should some persons feel disappointed at
the plan I have pursued, and regret the omissions which they
may discover, I would remind them, that the fashionable
dishes of the day may at all times be procured from an able
confectioner; and that part of the space which I might have
allotted to them is, I hope and believe, better occupied by
the subjects, homely as they are, to which I have devoted it,
that is to say, to ample directions for dressing vegetables,
and for making what cannot be purchased in this country-
unadulterated bread of the most undeniably wholesome
quality; and those refreshing and finely-flavoured varieties
of preserved fruit which are so conducive to health when
judiciously taken, and for which in illness there is often such
a vain and feverish craving when no household stores of them
can be commanded.*
Merely to please the eye by such fanciful and elaborate
decorations as distinguish many modern dinners, or to flatter
the palate by the production of new and enticing dainties,
ought not to be the principal aim, at least, of any work on
cookery. “Eat,—to live" should be the motto, by the spirit
of which all writers upon it should be guided.
I must here obtrude a few words of personal interest to
myself. At the risk of appearing extremely egotistic, I have
appended “ Author's Receipt " and “Author's Original Receipt
to many of the contents of the following pages; but I have done
it solely in self-defence, in consequence of the unscrupulous
manner in which large portions of my volume have been appro-
priated by contemporary authors, without the slightest acknow-
ledgment of the source from which they have been derived.
I have allowed this unfairness, and much beside, to pass
entirely unnoticed until now; but I am suffering at present
too severe a penalty for the over-exertion entailed on me by
the plan which I adopted for the work, longer to see with per-
fect composure strangers coolly taking the credit and the profits
• Many of those made up for sale are absolutely dangerous eating; those
which are not adulterated are generally so oversweetened as to be distasteful to
invalids.
3)


PREFACE,
of my toil. The subjoined passage from the preface of my
first edition will explain in what this toil-so completely at
variance with all the previous habits of my life, and, therefore,
so injurious in its effects—consisted ; and prevent the ne-
cessity of recapitulating here, in another form, what I have
already stated in it. “Amongst the large number of works
on cookery which we have carefully perused, we have never
yet met with one which appeared to us either quite intended
for, or entirely suited to the need of the totally inexperienced !
none, in fact, which contained the first rudiments of the art,
with directions so practical, clear, and simple, as to be at once
understood, and easily followed, by those who had no previous
knowledge of the subject. This deficiency, we have en-
deavoured in the present volume to supply, by such thoroughly
explicit and minute instructions as may, we trust, be readily
comprehended and carried out by any class of learners; our
receipts, moreover, with a few trifling exceptions which are
scrupulously specified, are confined to such as may be perfectly
depended on, from having been proved beneath our own roof
and under our own personal inspection. We have trusted
nothing to others; but having desired sincerely to render the
work one of general usefulness, we have spared neither cost
nor labour to make it so, as the very plan on which it has
been written must of itself, we think, evidently prove. It
contains some novel features, calculated, we hope, not only to
facilitate the labours of the kitchen, but to be of service
likewise to those by whom they are directed. The principal
of these is the summary appended to the receipts, of the
different ingredients which they contain, with the exact
proportion of each, and the precise time required to dress the
whole. This shows at a glance what articles have to be
prepared beforehand, and the hour at which they must be
ready; while it affords great facility as well, for an estimate of
the expense attending them. The additional space occupied
by this closeness of detail has necessarily prevented the
admission of so great & variety of receipts as the book
might otherwise have comprised; but a limited number, thus


PREFACE.
completely explained, may perhaps be more acceptable to the
reader than a larger mass of materials vaguely given.
“Our directions for boning poultry, game, &c., are also, we
venture to say, entirely new, no author that is known to us
having hitherto afforded the slightest information on the sub-
ject; but while we have done our utmost to simplify and to
render intelligible this, and several other processes not
generally well understood by ordinary cooks, our first and
best attention has been bestowed on those articles of food of
which the consumption is the most general, and which are
therefore of the greatest consequence; and on what are usually
termed plain English dishes. With these we have inter-
mingled many others which we know to be excellent of their
kind, and which now so far belong to our national cookery,
as to be met with commonly at all refined modern tables."
Since this extract was written, a rather formidable array of
works on the same subject has issued from the press, part of
them from the pens of celebrated professional gastronomers;
others are constantly appearing; yet we make, nevertheless,
but slight perceptible progress in this branch of our domestic
economy. Still, in our cottages, as well as in homes of a better
order, goes on the “waste" of which I have already spoken.
It is not, in fact, cookery-books that we need half so much
as cooks really trained to a knowledge of their duties, and
suited, by their acquirements, to families of different grades.
At present, those who thoroughly understand their business
are so few in number, that they can always command wages
which place their services beyond the reach of persons of
moderate fortune. Why should not all classes participate in
the benefit to be derived from nourishment calculated to
sustain healthfully the powers of life? And why should the
English, as a people, remain more ignorant than their conti-
nental neighbours of so simple a matter as that of preparing
it for themselves? Without adopting blindly foreign modes
in anything merely because they are foreign, surely we should
be wise to learn from other nations, who. excel us in aught
good or useful, all that we can which may tend to remedy


xil
PREFACE.
our own defects; and the great frugality, combined with
almost universal culinary skill, or culinary knowledge, at the
least—which prevails amongst many of them—is well worthy
of our imitation. Suggestions of this nature are not, how-
ever, sufficient for our purpose. Something definite, practical,
and easy of application, must open the way to our general
improvement. Efforts in the right direction are already
being made, I am told, by the establishment of well-conducted
schools for the early and efficient training of our female
domestic servants. These will materially assist our progress;
and if experienced cooks will put aside the jealous spirit
of exclusiveness by which they are too often actuated, and
will impart freely the knowledge they have acquired, they also
may be infinitely helpful to us, and have a claim upon our
gratitude which ought to afford them purer satisfaction than
the sole possession of any secrets-genuine or imaginary-
connected with their craft.
The limits of a slight preface do not permit me to pursue
this or any other topic at much length, and I must in conse-
quence leave my deficiencies to be supplied by some of the
thoughtful, and, in every way, more competent writers, who,
happily for us, abound at the present day; and make here my
adieu to the reader.
ELIZA ACTON
London, May, 1855.


VOCABULARY OF TERMS,
PRINCIPALLY FRENCH, USED IN MODERN COOKERY.
Bouillie—a sort of hasty pudding
Bouillon-broth.
Aspic-fine transparent savoury
jelly, in which cold game,
poultry, fish, &c., are mould.
ed; and which serves also to
decorate or garnish them.
Assiette Volante-a dish which is
handed round the table with.
out ever being placed upon
it. Small fondus in paper
cases are often served thus;
and various other prepara-
tions, which require to be
eaten very hot.
Blanquette—a kind of fricassee.
Boudin - a somewhat expensive
dish, formed of the French
forcemeat called quenelles,
composed either of
game,
poultry, butcher's meat
fish, moulded frequently into
the form of a rouleau, and
gently poached until it is
firm; then sometimes broiled
or fried, but as frequently
served plain.
Bouilli — boiled beef, or other
meat, beef being more gene-
rally understood by the term.
Casserole — a stewpan; and the
name also given to a rice.
crust, when moulded in the
form of a pie, then baked and
filled with a mince or purée of
game, or with a blanquette of
white meat.
Court Bouillon-a preparation of
vegetables and wine, in which
(in expensive cookery) fish is
boiled.
Consommé-very strong rich stock
or gravy.
Croustade-a case or crust formed
of bread, in which minces,
purées of game, and other
preparations are served.
Crouton-a sippet of bread.
or
Entrée-a first-course side or cor-
ner dish.
Entremets-a second-course side or
corner dish.
Espagnole, or Spanish sauce—a
brown gravy of high savour.
• Neither the roasts nor the removes come under the denomination of entrées : and the
same remark applies equally to the entremels in the second course. Large standing dishes
at the sides, such as raised pies, timbales, & c., served usually in grand repasts, are called
flanks: but in an ordinary service all the intermediate dishes between the joints and roasta
are distinguished by the name of entrées, or entremets.


xiv
VOCABULARY OF TERMS.
Farce--forcemeat.
Fondu-& cheese soufflé.
Gateau-a cake, also a pudding, as
Gateau de Riz; sometimes
also a kind of tart, as Gâteau
de Pithiviers.
Purée—meat, or vegetables, re-
duced to a smooth pulp, and
then mixed with sufficient
liquid to form a thick sauce or
soup.
Quenelles-French forcemeat, for
which see page 163.
Hors d'oeuvres - small dishes of
anchovies, sardines, and other
relishes of the kind, served in
the first course.
Macaroncini-a small kind of mac-
caroni.
Maigre-made without meat.
Matelote—a rich and expensive
stew of fish with wine, gene-
rally of carp, eels, or trout.
Meringue-a cake, or iceing, made
of sugar and whites of egg
beaten to snow.
Meringué-covered or iced with a
meringue-mixture.
Nouilles—a paste made of yolks of
egg and flour, then cut small
like vermicelli.
Rissoles-small fried pastry, either
sweet or savoury.
Sparghetti–Naples vermicelli.
Stock—the unthickened broth or
gravy which forms the basis of
soups and sauces.
Tammy—a strainer of fine thin
woollen canvas.
Timbale—a sort of pie made in a
mould.
Tourtema delicate kind of tart
baked generally in a shallow
tin pan, or without any : see
page 574.
Vol-au-vent-for this, see page 357.
Zita-Naples maccaroni.


TABLE OF CONTENTS.
CHAPTER 1.
SOUPS.
Page
.
.
very
.
.
10
.
ib.
.
Page
Ingredients which may all be used for Apple Soup
21
making Soup of various kinds
1 Parsnep Soup
22
A few directions to the Cook
2 Another Parsnep Soup
ib.
The time required for boiling down Soup Westerfield White Soup
ib.
or Stock
A richer White Soup
23
To thicken Soups
ib.
Mock-Turtle Soup
ib.
To fry Bread to serve with Soup
6 Old-fashioned Mock-Turtle
26
Sippets à la Reine
ib. Good Calf's-Head Soup (not expensive) 27
To make Nouilles (an elegant substitute
Soupe des Galles
29
for Vermicelli)
ib. Polage à la Reine (a delicate White Soup) 29
Vegetable Verricelli (Vegetables cut
White Oyster Soup (or Oyster Soup à la
fine for Soups)
ib Reine)
80
Extract of Beel, or very strong Beef
Rabbit Soup a la Reine :
31
Gravy-Soup (Baron Liebig's receipt) 6
Brown Rabbit Soup
ib.
Bouillon (the common Soup of France), Superlative Hare Soup
32
cheap and very wholesome
7 A less expensive Hare Soup
ib.
Clear pale Gravy Soup, or Consommé
Economical Turkey Soup
33
Another receipt for Gravy Soup
Pheasant Soup
ib.
Cheap clear Gravy Soup.
11 Another Pheasant Soup
34
Glaze (Note)
ib. Partridge Soup
35
Vermicelli Soup (Potage au Vermicelle) 12 Mullagatawny
ib,
Semoulina Soup (Soupe à la Semoule) ib To boil Rice for Mullagatawny, or for
Macaroni Soup
13 Curries
36
Soup of Soujee
ib. Good Vegetable Mullagatawny
37
Potage aux Nouilles, or Taillerine Soup 14 Cucumber Soup
38
Sago Soup
ib. Spring Soup, and Soup à la Julienne
ib.
Tapioca Soup
ib. An excellent Green Peas Soup
39
ib.
Green Peas Soup without ment
ib.
White Race Soup
15 A cheap Green Peas Soup
40
Rice-Flour Soup
ib.
Rich Peas Soup
41
Stock for White-Soup
ib. Common Peas Soup
ib.
Mutton Stock for Soups
16
Peas Soup without meat
42
Mademoiselle Jenny Lind's Soup
Oxtail Soup
The Lord Mayor's Soup
17 A cheap and good Stew Soup
43
The Lord Mayor's Soup (Author's receipt) 18 Soup in haste
ib.
Cocoa-Nut Soup
19 Veal or Mutton Broth
Chestnut Soup
ib. Milk Soup with Vermicelli (or with Rice,
Jerusalem Artichoke, or Palestine Soup ib. Semoulina, Sago, &c.)
Common Carrot Soup
20 Cheap Rice Soup
ib.
A tiner Carrot Soup
ib. Carrot Soup Maigre
45
Common Turnip Soup
21 Cheap Fish Soups
A quickly made Turnip Soup
ib. Buchanan Carrot Soup (excellent) ib.
Potato Soup
ib. Observation
.
Rice Soup
.
.
.
.
ib.
ib.
ib.
.
.


xvi
TABLE OF CONTEXTS.
CHAPTER II.
•
.
.
FISH.
Page
Page
To choose Fish
18 Baked Mackerel or Whitings (Cinderella's
To clean Fish
50
receipt. Good)
70
To keep Fishi
51 Fried Mackerel (Common French receipt) ib.
To sweeton tainted Fish
ib. Fillets of Mackerel (fried or broiled) 71
The mole of cooking best adapted to Boiler fillets of Mackerel
different kinds of Fish
ib. Mackerel broiled whole (an excellent se
The best mode of voiling Fish
53 ceipt)
ib.
Brine for bouing Fish
54 Mackerel stewed with Wine (very gooni : 72
To render boilea Fish firm
ib. Fuets of Mackerel stewed in Wine
To know when Fish is sufficiently boiled,
(errellent)
ib.
or otherwise cooked
55 To boil Haddocks (and when in season) 73
To bake Fish
ib. Baked ladilocks
ib.
Fat for fring Fish :
ib. To fry lladdocks
ib.
To keep Fishi hot for talle
56 To dress innan Haddocks
74
To boil a lu fot (and when in season) ib. To boil Gurnarus (with directions for
Turbot à la Creme
57 dressing them in other tonys)
ib.
Turbot cu Béchamel
ib. Fresh Herrings. Farleigh receipt (and
Mould of cold Turlot with Shrimp Chat-
tchen in season)
ib.
ney (refer to Chapter VI.)
To dress the Sea Bream
To boil a John Dory and when in seacon) 58 To boil Plaice or Flounders (and when in
Small John Morics baked Good (Author's
SC1807)
ib.
receip:)
ib. To fry Plaice or Flounders
ib.
To boil a Brill
ib. To rosst, inke, or brou Red Mullet and
To boil Salmon (and rhen in season) 59
trhen in spa on)
76
Salnion à la Generese
To boil Grey Mullet
ib.
Crimped Salmon
60 The Gur Fish (to bake)
Salmon à la še Marcel
ib. The Sand Launce, or Sand Eci (mode of
Baked Salmon over mashed potatoes ib. dressing)
ib.
Salmon Pudeling, to be served hot or cold To fry Smelts (and when in season)
ib.
(a Scotih receipl. Gond).
ib. Baked Smelts
78
To bow Cod fish and chen in season) 61 To dress White Bait. Greenwich receipt
Slices of Cod Fish Fried
ib.
(and when in season).
ib.
Stewed Cod
62 Water souchy (Greenwich receipt) ib.
Stewed Col Fish in brown sauce
ib. Shad, Touraine fashion (also à la mode de
To boil Salt Fish
ib.
Toraine)
79
Salt Fish à la Jlnitre d'hotel:
63 Stewed Trout. Good commor receipt
To boil Cons' Sounds
ib. (and when in season)
To fry Coils' sounds in batter
ib. To boil l'ike (and when in season)
To fry Sales and when in season)
6+ To bake Pike (commim receip!)
$1
To boil Sales
To bake Pike (superior receipt)
il
Fillets of Soles
65 To stew Carp (a common country receipt) $?
Soles ar Pint
66 To boil perch
ih
Baked Soles a simple but excelent receipij ib. To fry Perch or Tench
Soles stewed in cream
67 To fry Eels (and when in season)
ib.
To fry Whitinga land when in season) ib. Boiled Eels (Girman receipt)
ib.
Filleis of 117.tings.
68 To dress Eris (Cornish recript)
94
To boil Wings (t'rench receipo) ib. Red Herrings à la Dauphin
ib.
Baked Wings à la Française
ib. Red Herrings (cummon English mode) ib,
To boil Mackerel (and when in season) 69
Anchovics Iried in batter
ib
To bake Mackerel
ib.
ib.
80
ih
.
CHAPTER III.
DISIES
OF
SHELL-FISH.
Oysters, to cleanse and feed (and echen
in season).
To scallop Oysters
Scalioped Oysters à la reine :
85
86
ib
To stew Oysters
86
Oyster Sausages (n most excellent receip) 87
To boil Lobsters (and when in season) 89
Cold dressed Lobster and Crab
88


TABLE OF CONTENTS.
хуії
Page
Lobsters fricasseed, or au Béchamel
(Entrée)
89
Not Crab or Lobster
89
Potted Lobsters
90
Lobster
cutlets (a superior Enirée) 91
Lobster Sausages
.
Page
Boudinettes of Lobsters, Prawns, or
Shrimps. Entrée (Author's receipt) 92
To boil Shrimps or Prawns
93
To dish cold Prawns
ib.
To shell Shrimps and Prawns quickly
and easily
10.
ib.
CHAPTER IV.
GRAVIES.
Introductory remarks
94 Sweet Sauce, or Gravy for Venison 200
Jewish smoked Beef (extremely useful for Espagnole, Spanish Sauce (a highly fla.
giving flavour to Soups and Gradies) 95 toured Gravy).
ib.
To heighten the colour and flavour of Espagnole with Þine
ib.
Gravies
96 Jus des Rognons, or Kidney Gravy 101
Baron Liebeg's Beef Gravy (most excel.
Gravy in haste
ib,
lent for Hashes, Minces, and other Cheap Gravy for a Roast Fowl*
ib.
dishes made of cold meal)
ib. Another cheap Gravy for a Fowl
102
Shin of Beef Stock for Gravies
97 Gravy or Sauce for a Goose
ib.
Rich pale Veal Gravy or Consommé. ib. Orange Gravy for Wild Fowl
ib.
Rich deep coloured Veal Grary.
98 Meat Jellies for Pies and Sauces
103
Good Beef or Veal Gravy (Englisk receipt) 99 A cheaper Meat Jelly
ib.
A rich English brown Gravy
ib. Glaze
104
Plain Gravy for Venison
ib. Aspic
, or clear savoury Jelly
ib.
A rich Gravy for Venison
100
.
.
CHAPTER V.
SAU CES.
.
0
.
.
ib.
.
Introductory remarks
105 Crab Sauce
11%
To thicken Sauces .
ib. Good Oyster Sauce
ib.
French thickening, or brown Rous
106 Common Oyster Sauce
ib.
White Roux, or French thickening ib.
Shrimp Sauce .
115
Sauce Tournée, or pale thickened Gravy ib. Anchovy Sauce
ib.
Béchamel
107 Cream Sauce for Fish
Béchamel Maigre (a cheap rohite Sauce) 108 Sharp Maitre d'Hotel Sauce (English
Another common Béchamel
ib. receipt)
116
Rich melted Butter
ib. French Maitre Pilote, or Steward's
Melted Butter (a good common receipt) ib. Sauco
ib.
French melted Butter
109 Maitre d'Holei Sauce Maigre, or without
Norfolk Sauce, or rich' melted Butter
Gravy
. 117
without Flour
ib. The Lady's Sauce for Fish
ib.
White melted Butter
ib. Genevese Sauce, or Sauce Genecoise ib.
Burnt or browned Butter
ib. Sauce Robert
118
Clarified Butter
. 110
Sauce Piquante
ib.
Very good Egg Sauce
ib. Excellent Horse-radish Sauce, to serve
Sauce of Turkeys' Eggs Sauce (excellent) ib. hot or cold with roast Beef
ib.
Common Egg Sauce
ib. Hot Horse-radish Sauce
119
Egg Sauce for Calf's Head
111 Christopher North's own Sauce for many
English White Sauce
Meats
ib.
Very common White Sauce
ib. Gooseberry Sauce for Mackerei
120
Dutch Sauce
ib. Common Sorrel Sauce
ib.
Fricassee Sauce
112 Asparagus Sauce for Lamb Cutlets ib.
Bread Sauce
ib. Caper Sauce
121
Bread Sauce with Onion
113 Brown Caper Sance
ib.
Common Lobster Sauce
ib. Caper Sauce for Fish
Good Libster Sauce
Common Cucumber Sauce
.
.
.
ib.
.
ib.


xviii
TABLE OF CONTENTS,
Pago
.
.
.
• 127
.
.
.
Page
Another common Sauce of Cucumbers 122 Excellent Turnip, or Artichoke Sauce,
White Cucumber Sauce
ib. for boiled Meat
White Mushroom Sauce
ib. Olive Sauce
133
Another Mushroom Sauce
123 Celery Sauce
ib,
Brown Mushroom Sauce
ib. White Chestnut Sauce
123
Common Tomata Sauce
ib. Brown Chestnut Sauce
ib.
A finer Tomata Sauce
124 Parsley.green, for colouring Sauces ib.
Boiled Apple Sauce
ib.
To crisp Parsley
13)
Baked Apple Sauce
ib.
Fried Parsley :
ib
Brown Apple Sauce
Mild Mustard .
ib.
White Onion Sauce
ib. Mustard, the common way
ib.
Brown Onion Sauce
ib. French Batter for frying Vegetables, and
Another brown Onion Sauce
ib. for Apple, Peach, or Orange Fritters ib.
Soubise
To prepare Bread for frying Fish 131
Soubʻje (French receipt)
ib. Browned Flour for thickening Soups and
Müd Ragout of Garlic, or raii a la Bor.
Gravies
ib.
delaisc
ib. Fried Bread-Crumbs
ib.
Mid
Eschalot Sauce
127 Fricd Bread for Garnishing
ib.
a fine Sauce, or Purée of Vegetable SWEET PUDDING Sauces, CHAPTER
Marrow
ib. XXII.
• 125
.
. 126
CHAPTER VI.
COLD SAUCES, SALADS, ETC.
.
133
.
. 110
. ib.
.
Superior Mint Sauce, to serve with Lamb 132 | Anchory Butter (excellent)
138
Common Mint Sauce
ib. Lobster Butter
ib.
Strained Mint Sauce
ib. Truilled Butter, and Trumes potted in
bine Horseradish Sauce, to serve with
Butter for the Breakfast or Lun-
cold roast, stewed, or boiled Beef
chcon table
139
Cold Maitre d'Hotel, or Steward's Sauce. ib. English Salads
Cold Dutch or American Sauce, for French Salad
Salads of dressed Vegetables, Salt French Salad-Dressing .
ib,
Fish, or hard Eggs
ib.
Des Cerneaux, or Walnut Salad
English Sauce for Salad, cold weat, or Suffolk Salad
ab.
cold Fish
134 Yorkshire Ploughman's Salad .
ib.
The Poet's receipt for Salad :
135 An excellent Salad of young Vegetables . ib.
Sauce Mayonnaise, for Salads, cold Meat, Sortel Salad, to serve with Lamb Cutlets,
Poultry, Fish, or Vegetables
ib. Veal Cutlets, or roast Lamb
Red or green Mayonnaise Sauce
136 Lobster Salad
ib,
Imperial Mayonnaise, an elegant Jellied An excellent Herring Salad (Swedish re:
Sauce or Salad dressing
ib.
ceipt)
1.13
Remoulade
· 137 Tartar Sauce (Sauce'a la Tartere)
ib.
Oxford Brawn Sauce
ib. Shrimp Chatney (Mauritian receipt .246
Forced Egys for garnishing Salads :
ib. | Capsicumb Chatner
ib
.
. 1-12
CHAPTER VII.
STORE SAUCES.
. 116
.
150
151
ab.
1b.
.
.
Observations
145 | Pontac Catsup for Fish
Chetney Sauce (Bengal receip)
Bottled Tomatas, or Tomata Catsup
Fine Mushroom Catsup .
ib. Epicurean Sauce
Mushroom Catsup (another receipo) 148 Tarragon Vinegar
ib.
Green Mint Vinegnr
Compound, or Cook's Catsup : 149 Cucumber Vinegar
Walnut Catsup
ib.
Celery Vinegar
Another good receipt for Walnut Catsup 150 Eschalot, or Garlic Vinegar
Lemon Pickle, or Catsup
ib. Eschalot Wine
. jo,
183


TABLE OF CONTEXTS.
xix
Page
Page
Ilorseradish Vinegar
153 Potato Flour, or Arrow Root (Feculo de
Cayenne Vinegar
ib. Pommes de Terre)
154
Leinon Brandy for flavouring Swect To make Flour of Rice
Dishes
ib. Powder of Savoury Herbs
ib.
Dried Mushrooms
Tartar Mustard
Mushroom Powder .
Another Tartar Mustard :
ib.
.
ib.
.
• 154
CHAPTER VIII.
FORCEMEATS.
General remarks on Forcemeats
156 Mr. Cooke's Forcemeat for Geese or
Good common Forcemeat for Veal, Tur.
Ducks, No. 10.
161
keys, &c., No. 1
157 Forcemeat Balls for Mock Turtle Soups,
Another good common Forcemeat, No. 2 ib. No. 11
ib.
Superior Suet Forcemeat, No. 3 . 158 Egg Balls, No. 12 :
163
Common Suet Forcemeat, No. 4
ib. Bruin Cakes, No. 13
ib.
Oyster Forcemeat, No. 5
Another receipt for Brain Cakes, No: 14. ib.
Finer Oyster Forcemeat, No. 6
ib. Chestnut Forcemeat, No. 15
ib.
Mushroom Forcemcat, No. 7
ib. An excellent French Forcemeat, No: 16: 163
Forcemeat for Hare, No. 8
160 French Forcemeat, called Quenelles, No. 17 ib.
Onion and Sage stuffing for Geese, Ducks, Forcemeat for raised and other cold Pics,
&c., No. 9
ib. No. 18
164
Panada, No. 19
165
. 159
CHAPTER IX.
BOILING, ROASTING, ETC.
179
. 180
To boil Meat
Podlée
4 Blanc
Roasting
Steaming
Stewing
Broiling
Frying
167 Baking, or Oven Cookery
169
Braising
íb.
Larding
ib. Boning
172 To blanch Meat or Vegetables
173 Glazing
175 Toasting
176 Browning with Salamander
. 181
182
ib.
ib.
193
ib.
CHAPTER X.
BEEF.
.
.
.
ib.
• 195
To choose Bect
184 Welsh Stew
191
When in season
ib. A good English Stew
ib.
To roast Sirloin or Ribs of Beef
ib. To stew Shin of Beef
. 192
Roast Rump of Beef
186 French Beef à la Mode (common receipt). ib.
To roast part of a Round of Beef
ib. Stewed Sirloin of Beer
193
To roast a Fillet of Beef
187 To stew a Rump of Beef.
194
Roast Beef Steak
Beef Palates (Entrée)
ib.
To broil Beef
Steaks
ib. Beef Palates (Neapolitan mode)
Beef Steaks à la Française (Entrée) 188 Stewed Ox-tails (Entrée).
ib.
Beef Steaks à la Française (another re-
Broiled Ox-tail (good) (Entrée)
ib.
ceipt) (Entrée)
189
To salt and pickle Beef in various ways
196
Stewed Beef Steak (Entrée)
ib. To salt and boil a round of Beef
ib.
Fried Beef Steaks
ib. | Hamburgh Pickle for Beef, Hams, and
Beef Stewed in its own Gravy good and Tongues
197
scholesome)
ib. Another Pickle fur Tongues, Beef, and
Beef or Mutton Cake (very good!) (Entrée) -90 Ilams
ih.
German Stew.
). Dutch, or Hung Beci:
.
.
.


xxii
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
Page
Page
Fritot or Friteau of cold Fowls (Entrée) . 277
Scallops of Fou'ls au Béchamel (Entrée) ib.
Grillade of cold Fowls
ib.
Fowls à la Mayonnaise
278
279
ib.
To roast Ducks (and when in season)
Stewed Duck (Entrée)
To roast Pigeons (and when in season)
Boiled Pigeons
..
UHAPTER
XV.
GAME.
.
. 285
ib.
To choose Game
281
To roast a Haunch of Venison
282
To stew a Shoulder of Venison
283
To Hash Venison
To roast a Hare
ib,
Roast Hare (superior receipt)
Stewed Hare
286
To roast a Rabbit
ib.
To boil Rabbits
ib,
Fried Rabbit
287
To rcast a Pheasant
ib.
Boudin of Pheasant, à la' Richelieu
(Entrée)
288
To roast Partridges
ib.
Boiled Partridges
289
Partridges with Mushrooms
ib.
Broiled Partridge (breakfast dish)
290
Broiled Partridge (French receip?)
ib,
The French, or Red-legged Partridge ib.
To roast the Landrail or Corn-Crake 291
To roast Black Cock and Gray Hen (and
when in season)
To roast Grouse
292
A salmi of Moorfowi, Pheasants, or Par-
tridges (Entrée).
ib.
French salmi, or hash of Game (Enirée)
ib.
To roast Woodcocks or Snipes (and their
season)
293
To roast the Pintail or Sea-Pheasant,
with the season of all Wild Fowl 294
To roast Wild Ducks
ib.
A salmi or hash of Wild Fowl :
. ib.
.
..
.
CHAPTER
XVI.
OURRIES, POTTED MEATS, ETC.
Remarks on Currieg
Mr. Arnott's Currie Powder :
Mr. Arnott's Currie
A Bengal Currie
A dry Currie
A common Indian Currie
Selin's Curries (Captain White's)
Curried Macaroni
Curried Eggs
Curried Sweetbreads
Curried Oysters
Curried Gravy
296
297
ib.
298
ib.
299
300
.
Potted Meats
303
Potted Ham (an ercellent receipt) 304
Potted Chicken, Partridge, or Pheasant 305
Potted Ox Tongue
ib,
Potted Anchorics
806
Lobster Butter (Chapter VI.) :
Potted Shrimps or Prawns (delicious)
Potted Mushrooms (see Chapter XVII.)
Moulded Potted Meat or Fish, for the
second course
ib.
Potted Hare
. 307
ib.
301
ib.
302
ib.
CHAPTER XVII.
VEGETABLES.
.
Observations on Vegetables
308 | Crisped Potatoes, or Potato-Ribbons (En.
To clear Vegetables
from Insects
309 tremels), or to serve with Cheese 318
To boil Vegetables green
ib. Fried Potatoes (Entremets) (plainer re-
Potatoes, -remarks on their properties
ceipt)
ib.
and importance
ib. Mashed Potatoes
ib.
To boil Potatoes as in Ireland : 310 English Potato-Balls, or Croquettes
To boil Potatoes (the Lancashire way) 311
Potato Boulettes (Entremets) (good) ib.
To boil new Potatoes
ib. Potato Rissoles (French)
315
New Potatoes in Butter
313 Potatoes à la Maitre d'ustel:
ib.
To boil Potatoes (Captain Kater's receipt) ib. Potatoes à la Crème
To roast or bake Potatoes
ib, Kohl.Cannon, or Kale-Cannon (an Irish
Scooped Potatoes (Entremets)
ib
receipt)
. 814


TABLE OF CONTENTS.
xxiii
Page
.
• 330
.
.
.
ib.
. 333
• 334
Page
To boil Sea-Kale
316 Forced Tomatas (English receipt)
397
Sea-Kale stewed in Gravy (Eniremets) ib. Forced Tomatas (French receipt)
328
Spinach (Entremets) (Prench receipt) ib. Purée of Tomatas
. ib.
Spinach à l'Anglaise, or English fashion To boil Green Indian Corn
329
(Entremets)
317 Mushrooms au Beurre
ib.
Spinach (common English mode)
ib. Potted Mushrooms
Another common English receipt for Mushroom-Toast, or Croute aux Chas.
Spinach
ib. pignons (ercellent)
ib.
To dress Dandelions like Spinach, or as a Truffles, and their uses
331
Salad (very wholesome)
318 Truffles à la Serviette
ib.
Boiled Turnip Radishes
ib.
Truffles à l'Italienne
ib.
Boiled Lecks
ib.
To prepare Truflles for use
332
Stewed Lettuces
319 To boil Sprouts, Cabbages, Saroys, Lct-
To boil Asparagus
ib. tuces, or Endive
Asparagus points dressed like Peas (En-
Stewed Cabbage
(remets)
ib. To boil Turnips
ib.
To boil Green Pens:
320 To mash Turnips
ib.
Green Peas à la Française, or French Turnips in white Sauce (Entremets)
fashion (Entremets)
ib. Turnips stewed in Butter (good)
ib.
Green Peas with Cream (Entremets) 321 Turnips in Gravy
335
To boil French Beans
ib. To boll Carrots
ib
French Beans à la Française (Entremets) ib. Carrots (the Windsor receiph) (Entremets) ib.
An excellent receipt for French Beans Sweet Carrots (Entremets)
336
à la Française
329 Mashed (or Buttered) Carrots (a Dutch
To boil Windsor Beans
receipt)
io.
Dressed Cucumbers
ib. Carrots au Beurre, or Buttered Carrots
Vandrang, or Mandram (West Indian
(French receip!)
ib.
receipt)
323 Carrots in their own Juice (a simple bui
Another receipt for Mandram
ib,
ercellent receipt)
337
Dressed Cucumbers (Author's receipt) ib.
To boil Parsneps
ib.
Stewed Cucumbers (English mode) ib.
Fried Parsneps
ib.
Cucumbers à la Poulette
Jerusalem Artichokes
ib.
Cucumbers à la Crème
ib. To fry Jerusalem Artichokes (Entremets) 338
Fried Cucumbers, to serve in common
Jerusalem Artichokes à la Reine
ib.
hashes and minces
ib. Mashed Jerusalem Artichokes
ib.
Melon
325 Haricots Blancs
. ib.
To boil Cauliflowers
ib.
To boil Beet-Root
339
Cauliflowers (French receipt)
ib. To bake Beet-Root
Cauliflowers with Parmesan Cheese ib. Stewed Beet-Root
Cauliflowers à la Française
326 To stew Red Cabbage (Flemish receipt)
ib.
Brocoli
ib.
Brussels Sprouts
ib.
To boil artichokes :
ib. Salsify
Artichokes en Salade (see Chapter VI.) Fried Salsify (Entremets)
Vegetable Marrow
327
Boiled Celery
ib.
Roast Tomatas (lo
serce eith roast Stewed Celery
ib.
Mutton).
ib. Stewed Onions
3-49
Stewed Tomatas
: : Stewed Chestnuts :
ib.
ib.
.
. 324
.
. ib.
. 310
.
.
. 341
ib,
.
.
ib.
CHAPTER XVIII.
PASTRY.
.
dish.
.
Introductory remarks
344 Excellent short Crust for Sweet Pastry . 349
To glaze or ice Pastry
345 Bricche Paste.
ib.
Feilalletage, or fine French Puff Paste ib. Modern Potato Pasty, an excellent family
Very good light Paste
316
850
English Puff Paste .
ib. Casserole of Rice
351
Cream Crust (very good) (Author's receipij 347 A good common English Game Pie 352
Páte Brisés (or French Crust for hot or Modern Chicken Pie
cold Meat Pies).
ib. A common Chicken Pie
ib.
Flead Crust
ib. Pigeon Pie
354
Cominon Suet-Crust for Pies
Beef-steak Pie :
ib.
Very superior Suet-Crust
ib. Common Mutton Pie
365
Væy rich short Crust for Tarts
A good Mutton Pie .
ib.
• 353
.
. 348
. 349


xxiv
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
Page
• $07
ib.
• 369
.
.
.
Page
Raised Pies
356 Tartlets of Almord Paste
A Vol-au-Vent (Entrée)
357 Fairy Fancies (Pantaisies des Fées) 368
A Vol-au-Vent of Fruit (Entremels) 358 Mincemeat (Author's receipt)
A Vol-au-Vent à la Créme (Entremets) ib. Superlative Mincemeat
Oyster Patties (Entrée)
359 Mince Pies (Entremets)
ib.
Common Lobster Patries
ib.
Mince Pies Royal (Entremets).
370
Superlative
Lobster Patties (Author's re:
The Monitor's Tart, or Tourle à la Judd ib.
ib. Pudding Pies (Entremets)
371
Good Chicken Patties (Entrée)" ib. Pudding Pies (a commoner kind)
ib.
Pattien à la Pontife, a fast-day or maigre Cocoa-Nut Cheesecakes (Entremets) (Ja-
dish (Entrée)
360
maica receip)
ib.
Excellent Meat Rolls
ib. Common Lemon Tarilets :
372
Small Vols-au-Vents, or Patty-cases 361 Madame Werner's Rosenvik Cheesecakes ib.
Another receipt for Tartlets
Apfel Krapfen (German receipt)
A Sefton, or Veal Custard
362 Créme Patissière, or Pastry Cream
ib.
Apple Cake, or German Tart
ib. Small Vols-au-Vent, à la Parisienne (En-
Tourte Meringuée, or Tart with royal icing 363 tremets)
374
A good Apple Tart
ib. Pastry Sandwiches
ib,
Tart of very young green Apples (good) : 364 Lemon Sandwiches
ib.
Barberry Tart
ib. Panchonnettes (Entremets)
ib.
The Lady's Tourte, and Christmas Tourte
Jelly-Tartlets, or Custards
à la Châtelaine.
ib. Strawberry Tartlets (good)
. ib.
Genoises à la Reine, or her Majesty's Raspberry Puffs
Pastry
366 Creamed Tartlets
ib,
Almond Paste.
: :
367 Ramakins à l'Ude, or Sefton-Fancies ib.
• ib,
. 373
.
.
.
. 375
. ib.
CHAPTER XIX.
• 378
• 379
. 380
cate)
SOUFFLES, OMLETS, ETC.
Souffles
377 Very savoury Rissoles (Entrée)
387
Louise FranksCitron Soma :
Small fried Bread Patties, or Croustades
A Pondu, or Cheese Soufflé
of various kinds
387
Observations on Omlets, Fritters, &c. Dresden Patties, or Croustades (very deli.
A common Omlet
ib.
ib.
An Omlette Soufié (second course, remode To prepare Beef Marrow for frying
of roast)
881
Croustades, Savoury Toasts, &c. 388
Plain Common Fritters :
ib. Small Croustades, or Bread Patties, dressed
Pancakes.
382 in Marrow (Author's receipt)
ib.
Fritters of Cake and Pudding
ib.
Small Croustades, à la Bonne Maman (the
Mincemeat Fritters.
383 Grandmamma's Palties)
889
Venetiau Fritters (very good)
ib. Carried Toasts with Anchovies
. ib,
Rhubarb Fritters
ib. To fillet Anchovies
ib.
Apple, Peach, Apricot, or Orange Fritters 384 Savoury Toasts.
390
Brioche Fritters
ib, To choose Macaroni, and other Italian
Potato Fritters (Entremets)
ib.
Pastes
ib.
Lemon Fritters (Entremets)
ib. To boil Macaroni
Cannelons (Entremets)
385 Ribbon Macaroni
ib,
Cannelons of Brioche paste (Entremets) ib. Dressed Macaroni
Croquettes of Rice (Entremets).
ib. Macaroni à la Reine.
393
Finer Croquettes of Rice (Entremets) SEMOULINA AND POLENTA à Pitalienne
Savoury Croquettes of Rice (Entrée). ib. (Good) (To serte instead of Maca-
Rissoles (Entrée)
387 roni).
.
. 392
• 892
• 386
CHAPTER XX.
BOILED PUDDINGS.
General Directions
895 To mix Batter for Puddings
To clean Currants for Puddings or Cakes 397 Suet Crust for Meat or Fruit Pudding
To steam a Pudding in a common stew. Butter Crust for Puddings
pan or saucepan
ib. | Saroury Puddings
897
399
ib.
.
. 399


TABLE OF CONTENTS.
XXV
.
• 400
• 401
.
ib.
• 413
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
Page
Pago
Beef-steak, or John Bull's Pudding 399 Prince Albert's Pudding
411
Small Beef-steak Pudding,
German Pudding and Sauce (very good).
Rath Pinch’s Beef-steak Pudding
The Welcome Guest's own Pudding (light
Mutton Pudding
ib. and wholesome. Author's receip) ib.
Partridge Padding (very good).
ib. Sir Edwin Landseer's Pudding
A Peas Pudding (to serve with Boiled Pork) ib. A Cabinet Pudding
Wine-sauce for Sweet Puddings
402 A very fine Cabinet Pudding
414
Common Wine-sauce
ib. Snowdon Pudding (a genuine receip!) ib.
Punch-sauce for Sweet Puddings ib. Very good Raisin Puddings
415
Clear Arrowroot-sauce (with receipt for The Elegant Economist's Pudding ib.
Welcome Guest's Pudding)
403 Pudding à la Scoones
416
A German Custard Pudding-sauce ib. Ingoldsby Christmas Puddings
ib.
A delicious German Pudding-sauce.
ib. Small and very light Plum Pudding ib.
Red Currant or Raspberry-sauce (good) · 401 Vegetable Plum Pudding (cheap and good) 417
Common Raspberry-sauce
ib. The Author's Christmas Pudding
ib.
Superior Fruit Snuces for Sweet Puddings ib. A Kentish Well-Pudding.
ib.
Pine-apple Pudding-sauce
405
Rolled Pudding
418
A very fine Pine-apple Sauce or Syrup A Bread Pudding
ib.
for Puddings, or other Sweet Dishes ib. A Brown Bread Pudding .
419
German Cherry-sauce
A good boiled Rice Pudding
Common Batter Pudding
ib. Cheap Rice Pudding.
Another Batter Pudding
ib. Rice and Gooseberry Pudding .
ib.
Black-cap Pudding :
407 Fashionable Apple Dumplings.
ib.
Batter Fruit Pudding
ib. Orange Snow-balls
ib.
Kentish Suet Pudding
ib. Apple Snow-balls
421
Another Suet Pudding
408 Light Currant Dumplings
ib.
Apple, Currant, Cherry, or other Fresh Lemon Dumplings (light and good) ib.
Fruit Pudding
ib. Suffolk, or hard Dumplings
ib,
A common Apple Pudding
409 Norfolk Dumplings .
ib.
Herodotus' Pudding (4 genuing classical Sweet boiled Patties (good)
422
receip?
ib. Boiled Rice, to be served with stewed
The Publisher's Pudding:
410 Fruits, Preserves, or Raspberry Vi-
Her Majesty's Pudding
ib. negar.
ib.
Common Custard Pudding
411
.
.
.
• 406
ib.
• 420
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
CHAPTER XXI.
BAKED PUDDINGS.
.
.
.
.
.
.
135
.
ib.
. 436
.
Introductory Remarks
423 Madeleine Puddings (to be served cold) . 432
A baked Plum Pudding en Morie, or A good French Rice Pudding, or Gáteau
Moulded
424 de Ris
433
The Printer's Pudding
ib. A common Rice Pudding
ib.
Almond Pudding
425 Quite cheap Rice Pudding
434
The Young Wife's Pudding (Author's Richer Rice Pudding
ib.
receipt)
ib. Rich Pudding Meringue
ib.
The Good Daughter's Mincemeat Pud Good ground Rice Pudding,
ding (Author's receipt)
426 Common ground Rice Pudding
ib.
Mrs.
Howitt's Pudding Author's receipt) ib. Green Gooseberry Pudding
An excellent Lemon Pudding
ib. Potato Pudding
Lemon Suet Pudding
427 A Richer Potato Pudding
ib.
Bakewell Pudding :
ib. A good Sponge-cake Pudding .
ib.
Ratifia Pudding
ib. Cake and Custard, and various other in-
The elegant Economist's Pudding 428 expensive Puddings .
437
Rich Bread and Butter Pudding
ib. Baked Apple Pudding, or Custard ib.
A common Bread and Butter Pudding 429 Dutch Custard, or Baked Raspberry Pud-
A good baked Bread Puddling
ib. ding
438
Another baked Bread Pudding • 430 Gabrielle's Pudding, or sweet Casserole of
A good Semoulina or Soujee Pudding ib. Rice.
ib
French Semoulina Pudding, or Gáteau de Vermicelli Pudding, with apples or with
Semoule
ib.
out, and Puddings of Soujee and
Saxe-Gotha Pudding, or Tourie
431
Semola
439
Baden Baden Puddings
ib. Rice à la Vathek, or Rice Pudding à la
Sutherland, or Castle Puddings
Vathek (extremely good)
440
.
.
• 432
.
.


xxvi
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Page
Good Yorkshire Pudding :
Common Yorkshire Pudding
Normandy Pudding (good),
Common baked Raisin Pudding
A richer baked Raisin Pudding
Page
The Poor Author's Pudding
. 441 Pudding à la Paysanne (cheap and good
ib, The Curate's Pudding
ib. A light baked Batter Pudding:
it.
.
4+
.
CHAPTER XXII.
EGGS AND MILK.
To preserve Eggs fresh for many weeks . 444
To cook Eggs in the shell without boiling
thicm (an admirable receipt)
445
To boil Eggs in the shell
ib.
To dress
the Eggs of the Guinea Fowi
and Bantam
416
To dress Turkey: Eggs :
417
Forced Turkey's' Eggs (or Swans'), an
excellent entremets
ib.
To boil a Swau's Egg hard
448
Swan's Egg en Salade
To poach Eggs of different kinds
Poached Eygs with Gravy (ufs Poches
au Jus. Entremets.)
ih
Cufs au Plat
Milk and Cream
ab.
Deronshire, or Clotted Cream
451
Du Lait a Madame
Curds and Whey
Devonshire Junket .
. ib.
..
CHAPTER
XXIII.
SWEET DISHES, OR ENTREMETS.
471
.
To prepare Calf's Feet Stock
453 | Apple Calf's Feet Jelly
To clanfy Calf's Feet Stock
454 Omnge Calf's Feet Jelly (Author's receipt) ib.
To clarify Isinglass .
ib. Orange Isinglass Jelly
465
Spinach Green, for colouring Sweet Very fine Orange Jelly (Susscz Place to:
Dishes, Confectionary, or Soups 455 ceipt)
ib.
Prepared Apple or Quince Juice 456 Oranges filled with Jelly.
466
Cocoa-nut flavoured Milk (for Sweet Lemon Calf's Feet Jelly
467
Dishes, &c.)
ib. Constantia Jelly
ib.
Remarks upon Compotes of Fruit, or Fruit Rhubarb Isinglass Jelly (Author's original
stewed in Syrup
ib. receipt) (good)
469
Compote of Rhubarb
457 Strawberry Isinglass Jelly
ib.
of Green Currants
ib. Fancy Jellies, and Jelly in Belgrave mould 469
of Green Gooseberries
ib. Queen Mab's Pudding (an elegant summer
of Green Apricots
ib. dish)
470
of Red Currants
ib.
Nesselróde Cream:
of Raspberries.
458 Créme à la Comtesse, or the Countess's
of Kentish or Flemish Cherries ib. Cream
of Morella Cherries.
ib. An excellent Trifle :
. 473
of the green Magnum Bonum, Swiss Cream, or Trifle (tery good) ib.
or Mogul Plumn
ih. Tipsy Cake, or Brandy Trifle
474
of Damsons
ib. Chantilly Basket filled with whipped
of ripe Magnum Bonums, or
Cream and fresh Strawberries. ib.
Miogul Plums
ib. Very good Lemon Cream, made without
of the Shepherd's and other Cream
475
Bullaces
ib. Fruit Creams, and Italian Creams ib.
of Siberian Crabs :
ib. Very superior whipped Syllabubs 476
of Peaches
459 Good common Blanc-mange, or Blanc
Another receipt for stewed Peaches ib. Manger (Author's receipt)
ib.
Compote of Barberries for Dessert ib. Richer Blanc-mange
477
Black Caps, par excellence (for the Second Jaumange, or Jaune Manger; sometimes
Course, or for Dessert)
460
called Dutch Flummery
ib.
Gateau de Pommes
ib. Extremely good Strawberry Blanc-mange;
Gateau of mixed Fruits (good)
461 or Bavarian Cream
ib.
Calf's Feet Jelly (entremets)
ib. Quince Blanc-mange (delicious) 478
Another receipt for Call's Feet Jelly 462 Quince Blanc-mange, with Almond Cream ib.
Modern varieties of Calf's Feet Jelly 463 | Apricot Blanc-mauge, or Créme Parisienne 479
.
.


TABLE OF CONTENTS.
xxvii
.
.
.
.
• 482
Page
Page
Currant Blanc-mange
. 479Meringue of Pears, or other fruit
485
Lemon Sponge, or Moulded Lemon Cream 480 An Apple Charlotte, or Charlotte de
An Apple Hedgehog, or Suédoise
ib. Pommes
ib.
Imperial Gooseberry-fool
ib. Marmalade for the Charlotte
487
Very good old-fashioned boiled Custard . 481 A Charlotte à la Parisienne
ib,
Rich boiled Custard
ib. A Gertrude à la Creme
ib.
The Queen's Custard
ib. Pommes au Beurre (Buttered Apples) (ex-
Currant Custard
cellent)
488
Quince or Apple Custards
ib.
Suédoise of Peaches.
ib.
The Duke's Custard
ib.
Aroce Doce, or Sweet Rice à la Portua
Chocolate Custards.
gaise.
489
Common baked Custard
ib. Cocoa Nut Doce
490
A finer baked Custard
Buttered Cherries (Cerises au Beurrel
ib.
French Custards or Creams
484 Sweet Macaroni
German Puifs
ib. Bermuda Witches
A Meringue of 'Rhubarb, or green Goose Nesselrode Pudding .
ib.
berries
485 Stewed Figs (a very nice Compote) 492
Creamed Spring Fruit, or Rhubarb Trifle 486
• 483
ib.
ib.
• 491
.
CHAPTER
XXIV.
PRESERVES.
.
• 501
General Remarks on the use and value Delicious Red Currant Jam
509
of Preserved Fruits
493 Very fine White Currant Jeily
510
A few General Rules and Directions for White Currant Jam, a beautiful Preserve ib.
Preserving
496
Currant Paste.
ib.
To Extract the Juice of Plums for Jelly : 497 Fine Black Currant Jelly
511
To weigh the Juice of Fruit
498 Common Black Currant Jelly .
ib.
Rhubarb Jam.
ib. Black Currant Jam and Marmalade ib.
Green Gooseberry Jelly
ib. Nursery Preserve
512
Green Gooseberry Jam (firm and of good Another good common Preserve
ib.
colour)
499 A good Melange, or mixed Preserve 513
To dry green Gooseberries
ib. Groseilléc, (another good Preserve). ib,
Green Gooseberries for Tarts
ib. Superior Pine-apple Marmalade (a new
Red Gooseberry Jam
500 receipt)
ib.
Very fine Gooseberry Jam
ib. A fine Preserve of the green Orange Plum
Jelly of ripe Gooseberries (ezcellent) ib. (sometimes called the Stonewood
Unmixed Gooseberry Jelly
Plum)
514
Gooseberry Paste
ib. Greengage Jam, or Marmalade
515
To dry ripe Gooseberries with Sugar ib. Preserve
of the Magnum Bonum, or Mo-
Jam of Kentish or Flemish Cherries 502
gul Plum
ib.
To dry Cherries with Sugar (a quick and To dry or preserve Vogul Plums in syrup ib.
easy method)
ib. Mussel Plum Cheese and Jelly
516
Dried Cherries (superior receipė) 503 Apricot Marmalade.
ib.
Cherries dried without Sugar
ib. To dry Apricots (a quick and easy method) 517
To dry Morella Cherries
504 Dried Apricots (French receipt)
ib.
Common Cherry Cheese .
ib. Peach Jam, or Marmalade
518
Cherry Paste (French)
ib. To preserve or to dry Peaches or Necta.
Strawberry Jam
ib, 'rines (an easy and excelent receipt) . ib.
Strawberry Jelly, a very superior Pre Damson Jam (very good).
serve (new receip!)
505 Damson Jelly
ib.
Another very fine strawberry Jelly ib. Damson or Red Plum Solid (good) ib.
To preserve Strawberries or Raspberries, Excellent Damson Cheese
520
for Creams or Ices, without boiling . 506 Red Grape Jelly
ib.
Raspberry Jam
ib. English Guara (a firm, clear, bright Jelly). ib.
Very rich Raspberry Jam, or Marmalade ib. Very fine Imperatrice Plum Mármala le . 521
Good Red or White Raspberry Jam 507 To dry Imperatrice Plums (an easy me.
Raspberry Jelly for flavouring Creams ib. thod)
ib.
Another Raspberry Jelly (very good) 508 To bottle Fruit for winter
522
Red Currant Jelly
ib. | Apple Jelly
ib.
Superlative Red Currant Jelly (Norman Exceedingly fine Apple Jelly
523
receipt)
509 Quince Jelly
524
French Currant Jeuy : : ib. ! Quince Marmalade :
ib.
.
.
• 519
.
.
.
use
.
.


xxviii
TABLE OF CONTEXTE.
Page
Quince and Apple Marmalade.
Quince Paste
Jelly of Siberian Crabs :
To preserve Barberries in bunches
Barberry Jam (Hirst and best receip!)
Barberry Jam (second receipt)
Page
525 Superior Barberry Jelly, and Marmalade 537
ib. Orange Marmalade (a Portuguese receip!) ib.
526 Genuine Scotch Marmalade
529
ib. Clear Orange Marmalade (Author's receipt) 529
ib. Fine Jelly of Seville Oranges (Author's
527 original receipt)
.630
CHAPTER XXV.
PICKLES.
.
• 532
ib.
Observations ou Pickles
631
To pickle Cherries
To pickle Gherkins
To pickle Gherkins (a French receipt) 533
To pickle Peaches, and Peach Mangoes . 634
Sweet Pickle of Lemon (Foreign receipt)
(to serve with roast meal)
ib.
To pickle Mushrooms
635
Mushrooms in brine, for winter use (very
good)
536
To pickle Walnuts
53€
To pickle Beet-Root
537
Pickled Eschalots (Author's receipt) ib.
Pickled Onions
ib.
To pickle Lemons and Limes (ercellent) : 538
Lemon Mangoes (Author's original re-
ceipt)
ib.
To pickle Nasturtiums
599
To pickle red Cabbage
ib.
.
.
CHAPTER XXVI.
CAKES.
.
.
.
.
.
General Remarks on Cakes
540 | Acton Gingerbread .
553
To blanch and to pound Almonds 542 Cheap and very good Ginger Oven-cake
To reduce Almonds to a Paste (the quick-
or Cakes
ib.
est and easiest way)
ib. Good common Gingerbread
553
To colour Almonds or sugar-grains, or Richer Gingerbread
ib.
Sugar-candy, for Cakes or Pastry ib.
Cocoa-nut Gingerbread (original receipts) ib.
To prepare Butter for rich Cakes 543 Delicious Cream Cake and Swect Rusks. 554
To whisk Eggs for light rich Cakes ib. A good light Luncheon-cake and Brawn
Sugar Glazings and Icings, for fine Cakes
Brack
ib.
and Pastry
ib. A very cheap Luncheon-biscuit, or Nar:
Orange-Flower Macaroons (delicious) 544 sery-cake.
555
Almond Macaroons.
ib. Isle of Wight Dough-nuts
556
Very fine Cocoa-nut Macaroons 545 Queen Cakes
ib,
Imperials (not very rich).
ib, Jumbles
ib.
Fine Almond Cake
ib. A good Soda Cake
ib.
Plain Pound or Currant Cake (or rich Good Scottish Short-bread
557
Brawn Brack or Borrow Brack) 646 A Galette
ib.
Rice Cake
ib. Small Sugar Cakes of various kinds
White Cake
ib. Fleed, or Flead Cakes
ib.
A good Sponge Cake
547 Light Buns of different kinds
A smaller Sponge Cake (very good) ib. Exeter Buns
ib.
Fine Venetian Cake or Cakes
. ib. | Threadneedle-street Biscuits
560
A good Madeira Cake
548 Plain Dessert Biscuits and Ginger Bis-
A Solimemne (a rich Frenci breakfast
cuits
ib.
cake, or Sally Lunn)
549 Good Captain's Biscuits
ib.
Banbury Cakes
ib. The Colonel's Biscuits
Meringues
550 Aunt Charlotte's Biscuits
ib,
Italian Meringues
Excellent Soda Buns
Thick, light Gingerbread
ib.
I
• 568
.
• 559
.
561
.
• 551
-


TABLE OF CONTENTS
xix
CHAPTER XXVII.
CONFECTIONARY.
Page
565
666
ib.
567
Page
To clarify Sugar
582 Orange-flower Candy
To boil Sugar frım Syrup to Candy, or to Orange-flower Candy (another receipo)
Caramel
563
Cocoa-nut Candy
Caramel (the quickest way)
ib. Everton Toffee
Barley-sugar
564 Chocolate Drops
Nougat
ib. Chocolate Almonds
Ginger-candy
565
Seville Orange Paste
.
ib.
568
ib.
.
CHAPTER XXVIII.
DESSERT DISHES.
.
• 570
.
ib.
ib.
• 571
Dessert Dishes
569 | Normandy Pippins
579
Pearled Fruit, or Fruit en Chemise : Stewed Pruneaux de Tours, or Tours
Salad of mixed Summer Fruits
ib.
dried Plums
578
Peach Salad
To bake Pears.
Orange Salad
Stewed Pears
ib.
Tangerine Oranges .
ib. Boiled Chestnuts
574
Peaches in Brandy (Rotterdam receipt) ib. Roasted Chestnuts
ib.
Brandied Morella Cherries
Almond Shamrocks (very good and tery
Baked Compote of Apples (our 'little
pretty)
ib.
lady's receipt)
572 Small Sugar Soufles
575
Dried Norfolk Bitfins
Ices.
ib.
ib,
• ib.
CHAPTER XXIX.
.
.
.
.
.
SYRUPS, LIQUEURS, ETC.
Strawberry Vinegar, of delicious flavour. 577 | The Regent's, or George the Fourth's
Very fine Raspberry Vinegar
578 Punch
582
Fine Currant Syrup, or Sirop de Groseilles 579 Mint Julep (an American receipt) ib.
Cherry Brandy (Tappington Everard re Delicious Milk Lemonade
583
ceip!)
ib. Excellent portable Lemonade.
ib.
Oxford Punch
580 Excellent Barley Water (Poor Xury's re-
Oxford receipt for Bishop
ib.
ceipt).
ib.
Cambridge
Milk Punch
581 Raisin Wine, which, if long kept, really
To mull Wine (an excellent French re-
resembles foreign
ib.
ceip!)
ib. Very good Elderberry wine
584
A Birthday Syllabub
ib. Very Good Ginger Wine
ib.
An admirable cool cup
582 Excellent Orange Wine
585
The Counsellor's Cup
ib.
.
.
.
.
CHAPTER XXX.
.
COFFEE, CHOCOLATE, ETC.
Coffee
687 Burnt Coffee, or Coffee à la militaire (in
To roast Coffee
588
France vulgarly called Gloria).
592
A few general directions for making Coffee 589 To make Chocolate
ib
Excellent Breakfast Coffee
590 A Spanish recipe for making and serving
To boil Coffee
591 Chocolate
ib.
Café Noir
To make Cocoa
593
.
• 592


TABLE OF CONTENTS
CHAPTER XXXI.
BREAD.
Page
Remarks on Home-made Brcad
591
To purify Yeast for Bread or Cakes 595
The Oven
ib,
A few rules to be observed in making
Bread
596
Houschold Bread
ib.
Bordyke Bread (Author's receipes 697
German Yeast (and Bread made with
German Yeast).
598
Professor Liebig's Bavarian Brown Bread
(very nutritious and wholesome) 599
English Brown Bread
ib.
Page
Unfermented Bread
509
Potato Bread
600
Dinner or Breakfast Rolls
ih,
Geneva Rolls or Buns
61
Rusks
602
Excellent Dairy Bread, 'made without
Yeast (Author's receipt)
ib.
To keep Bread
603
To freshen stale Bread (and Pastry, &c.)
and preserve it from mould
ib.
To know when Bread is suficiently baked 604
On the proper fermentation of Dough ib.
CHAPTER XXXII.
FOREIGN AND JEWISIE COOKERY.
.
613
.
607
Foreign and Jewish Cookery
605 A simple Syrian Pilaw
612
Remarks on Jewish Cookery
606 Simple Turkish or Arabian Pilaw (From
Jewish Smoked Beef
ib. Mr. Lane, the Oriental traveller)
Chorissa (or Jewish Sausage) with Rice A real Indian Pilaw
ib.
To fry Salmon and other Fish in Oil (to Indian receipt for Curried Fishi
614
serte cold)
ib.
Bengal Currie Powder, No. 1.
ib.
Jewish Almond Pudding: :
608 Risotto a la Blayonnaise
615
The Lady's or
Invalid's new Baked Stufato (a Neapolitan receipt)
ib.
Apple Pudding (Author's original Broiled Eels with sage (Entrée) (German
receipt. Appropriate to the Jewish
receipt. Good)
616
table)
ib. A Swiss Sayonnaise
ib.
A few general directions for the Jewish Tendrons de veau
617
table
609 Poitrine de Veau Glacée (Breast of Veal
Tomata and other 'Chatnies (Mauritian stewed and glazed)
618
receipt)
ib. Breast of Veal simply stewed .
Indian Lobster Cutlets
610 Compote de Pigeons Stewed Pigeons)
An Indian Burdwan (Entrée) :
611 Mai Trank (May Drink) (German) 620
The King of Oude's Omlet
A Viennese Soufflé Pudding, called Sals-
L'edgeree or Kidgeree, an Indian break-
burger Nockeri
fast-dish.
613
ib.
. 619
ib.
.
INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.
TRUSSING.
Remarks on Trussing
General Directions for Trussing
XXXüi
ib.
To truss a Turkey, Fowl, Pheasant, or
Partridye, for roasting
. YrX
To truss Fish


TABLE OF CONTENT6.
ixxi
INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.
CARVING.
xb
• xxxviii
Rencarks on Carving
Xxxvii
No. 1. Cod's bead and shoulders
(and Cod fish generally)
No. 2. A Turbot
ib.
Soles
ib.
No. 3. Salmon
ib.
No. 4. Saddle of Jutton
ib.
No. 5. A Hanuch of Venison (or
Mutton)
Xxxix
No. 6. Sirloin or Rump of Beef
ib.
Ribs of Beef
ib.
A round of Beef
ib.
A brisket of Beef
No. 7. Leg of Mutton
ib.
No. 8. Quarter of Lamb
ib.
No. 9. Shoulder of Mutton or Lamb ib.
No. 10. A Sucking Pig
ib.
A fillet of Veal
A loin of Veal
No. Il. A breast of Veal
No. 12. A tongue
No. 13. A call's head
No. 14. A ham
No. 15. A pheasant
No. 16. A boiled fowl
No. 17. A roast fowl
No. 18. A partridge
No. 19. A woodcock
No. 20. A pigeon
No. 21. A snipe
No. 22. A goose
Ducks
No. 23. A wild duck
No. 24. A turkey
No. 25. A hare
No. 26. A fricandeau of venl
ib.
ib.
xlii
ib.
xliii
xliv
ib,
xly
ib.
il.
ib.
ib.
ulvi
ib.





INTRODUCTORY CHAPTEKS.
TRUSSING.
Trussing Needles.
Common and untrained cooks are often deplorably ignorant of this
branch of their business, a knowledge of which is, nevertheless, quite
as essential to them as is that of boiling or roasting ; for without it
they cannot, by any possibility, serve ap dinners of decently credit-
able appearance.
We give such brief general directions for it as
our space will permit, and as our own observations enable us to
supply; but it has been truly said, by a great authority in these
matters, that trussing cannot be " taught by words;" we would,
therefore, recommend, that instead of relying on any written
instructions, persons who really desire thoroughly to understand the
subject, and to make themselves acquainted with the mode of entirely
preparing all varieties of game and poultry more especially for
table, in the very best manner, should apply for some practical lessons
to a first-rate poulterer; or, if this cannot be done, that they should
endeavour to obtain from some well experienced and skilful cook the
instruction which they need.
GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR TRUSSING.
Before a bird is trussed, the skin must be entirely freed from any
down which may be on it, and from all the stubble-ends of the
feathers ;* the hair also must be singed from it with lighted writing
paper, care being taken not to smoke nor blacken it in the operation.
Directions for cleansing the insides of birds after they are drawn, are
given in the receipts for dressing them, Chapters XIV. and XV.
Turkeys, geese, ducks, wild or tame, fowls, and pigeons, should all
have the necks taken off close to the bodies, but not the skin of the
pecks, which should be left sufficiently long to turn down upon the
backs for a couple of inches or more, where it must be secured, either
with a needle and coarse soft cotton, or by the pinions of the birds
when trussed.
• This should be particularly attended to.
8


xxxiv
TRUSSING.
For boiling, all poultry or other birds must have the feet drawn
off at the first joint of the leg, or as shown in the engraving. (In the
latter case, the sinews of the joint must be slightly cut, when the bone
may be easily turned back as here.) The skin
must then be loosened with the finger entirely from
the legs, which must be pushed back into the body,
and the small ends tucked quite under the apron,
so as to be entirely out of sight.
The wings of chickens, fowls, turkeys, and pigeons, are left on
entire, whether for roasting or boiling. From
geese, ducks, pheasants, partridges, black game,
moor-fowl, woodcocks, snipes, wild-fowl of all
kinds, and all small birds, the first two joints are
taken off, leaving but one joint on, thus:--
The feet are left on ducks, and those of tame ones are trussed as
will be seen at page 278, and upon roast fowls, pheasants, black and
moor-game, pigeons, woodcocks, and snipes. The thick coarse skin
of the legs of these must be stripped, or rubbed off with a hard cloth
after they have been held in boiling water, or over a clear fire for a
few minutes. The sharp talons must be pulled out, and the nails
clipped. The toes of the pigeons for roasting should be cut off.
Geese, sucking-pigs, hares, and rabbits have the feet taken off at
the first joint.
The livers and gizzards are served in the wings of roast turkeys and
fowls only.
The heads are still commonly left on pheasants, partridges, and
black game and moor-game; but the fashion is declining. Of this
this we shall speak more particularly in the ensuing chapter.
Poultry and birds in general, except perhaps quite the larger
kinds, are more easily trussed into plump handsome form with twine
and needles proper to the purpose (for which see page 1), than with
skewers. The manner in which the legs and wings are confined
is much the same for all; the principal difference being in the arrange-
ment of the former for boiling, which has already been explained.
There is a present mode of trussing very large fowls for boiling or
stewing which to our taste is more novel than attractive. The feet
are left on, and after the skin has been loosened from them in every
part, the legs are thrust entirely into the body by means of a slight
incision made in the skin just above the first joint on the underside,
the feet then appear almost as if growing out of the sides of the
breast : the effect of this is not pleasing.
TO TRUSS A TURKEY, FOWL, PHEASANT OR PARTRIDGE, FOR
ROASTING.
First draw the skin of the neck down over the back, and secure it
from slipping up; then thread a trussing needle of convenient size, *
* These may be had, of various sizes, at any good ironmonger s.


TRUSSING.
XXXV
for the oocasion, with packthread or small twine (the former, from
being the most flexible, is best); pass it through the pinion of the
bird, then through the thick part of the thigh, which must be
brought up close under the wing, and in a straight line quite through
the body, and through the leg and pinion on the other side; draw
them close, and bring the needle back, passing it through the thick
part of the leg, and through the second joint of the pinion, should it
be left on the bird ; tie it quite tight; and then to secure the legs,
pierce the sidebone and carry the twine over the legs, then pass the
needle through the other sidebone, and tie them close down. If
skewers be used they should be driven through the pinions and the
legs, and a twine passed across the back of the bird, and caught over
the points of it, and then tied in the centre of the back: this is only
needful when the trussing is not firm.
When the head is left on a bird,
it may still be trussed in the same
way, and the head brought round,
as shown here, and kept in place
by a skewer passed through it, and
run through the body. When
the bird is trussed entirely with
Partridge
skewers, the point of one is brought
from the other side, through the pinions and the thighs, and the
head is fixed upon it. The legs are then pressed as much as possible
under the breast, between it and the side-bones, where they are
lettered a b. The partridge in the engraving is shown with the
skewers just withdrawn after being roasted.
Hares, after being filled with forcemeat, and sewn or securely
fastened up with skewers, are brought into proper roasting form by
having the head fixed between the shoulders, and either fastened to
the back by means of a long skewer, run through the head quite into
it, or by passing one through the upper part of the shoulders and
the neck together, which will keep it equally well in place, though
less thrown back. The fore-legs are then laid straight along the sides
of the hare, and a skewer is thrust through them both and the body
at the same time; the sinews are just cut through under the hind-
legs, and they are brought forward as much as possible, and skew-
ered in the same manner as the others. A string is then thrown
across, under the hare and over the points of both skewers, being
crossed before it is passed over the second, and then tied above the
back. The ears of a hare are left on; those of a rabbit, which is
trussed in the same way, are taken off.
Joints of meat require but little arrangement, either for the spit or
for boiling. A fillet of veal must have the flap, or part to which the
fat adheres, drawn closely round the outside, and be skewered or
bound firmly into good shape: this will apply equally to a round of
beef. The skin or flank of loins of meat must be wrapped over the
eds of the bones, and skewered o'u the underside. The cook should


Xxxvi
TRUSSING.
be particularly careful to separate the joints when it has not been done
by the butcher, and necks of veal or mutton also, or much trouble will
often arise to the carver.
To flatten and bring cutlets
into uniform shape, a bat of
this form is used: and to egg or
to cover them with clarified
butter when they are to be
crumbed, a paste-brush should be at hand. Indeed, tness
and many other small ineans and appliances, ought to be
provided for every cook who is expected to perform her
duty in a regular and proper manner, for they save much
time and trouble, and their first expense is very slight; yet
many kitchens are almost entirely without them.
Cutlet Bat.
Paste Brush.
TO TRUSS FISH.
Salmon, salmon-peel, pike, and some few other large fish, are
occasionally trussed in the form of an S by passing a string through
the head, and tying it securely, then through the centre of the body,
and next round the tail, which should be turned the reverse way of
the head, and the whole should then be drawn closely together and
well fastened. Whitings and other fish of small size are trussed with
the
tails merely skewered into their mouths.
Obs. It is indispensable for cooks to know how to carve neatly for
pies, puddings, fricassees, and curries, at the least, hares, rabbits, fowls,
and other birds. For those who are quite without experience in this
branch of their business, the directions and the illustrations in the
next chapter for carving a fowl into joints, will be found useful; and
probably many of the other instructions also.


CARVING.
xxxvii
CARVING.

Fish Carvers.
Whether the passing fashion of the day exact it of her or not,
a gentlewoman should always, for her own sake, be able to carve
well and easily, the dishes which are placed before her, that she may
be competent to do the honours of a table at any time with propriety
and self-possession.* To gentlemen, and especially to those who
mix much in society, some knowledge of this art, and a certain
degree of skill in the exercise of it, are indispensable, if they would
avoid the chance of appearing often to great disadvantage them-
selves, and of causing dissatisfaction and annoyance to others; for the
uncouth operations of bad carvers occasion almost as much discom-
fort to those who witness, as they do generally of awkwardness and
embarrassment to those who exhibit them
The precise mode of carving various dishes must of course depend
on many contingencies. For a plain family-dinner, or where strict
economy is an imperative consideration, it must sometimes, of
necessity, differ from that which is laid down here. We have con-
fined our instructions to the fashion usually adopted in the world.
Carving knives and forks are to be had of many forms and
sizes, and adapted to different purposes : the former should always
have a very keen edge, and the latter two prongs only.
As this can only be accomplished by practice, young persons should be early
accustomed to carve at home, where the failure of their first attempts will cause
them much less embarrassment than they would in another sphere, and at a
later period of life.


Xxxviii
CARVING.
No. 1. cod's HEAD AND SHOULDERS (AND COD FISA
GENERALLY.)
The thick part of the back of this, as of all large fish-salmon
excepted-is the firmest and finest eating. It should be carved
across, rather thick, and, as much as possible, in unbroken slices,
from a to b. The sound, which is considered a delicacy, lies under-
neath, and lines the back-bone: it must be reached with a spoon in
the direction c. The middle of the fish, when served to a family
party, may be carved in the same manner, or in any other which
convenience and economy may dictate.
No. 2.
A TURBOT.
In carving this most excellent fish, the rich gelatinous skin
attached to it, and a portion of the thick part of the fins, should be
served with every slice. If the point of the fish-knife be drawn
down the centre of the back through to the bone, in the lines a b c,
and from thence to d d d, the flesh may easily be raised upon the
blade in handsome portions, The thickest parts of all flat fish are
the best. A brill and a John Dory are served exactly like a turbot.
SOLES.
The more elegant mode of serving these, and the usual one at
good tables, is to raise the flesh from the bones as from a turbot,
which is easily done when the fish are large; but when they are too
small well to admit of it, they must be divided across quite through
the bone : the shoulders, and thick part of the body, are the
superior portions.
No. 3.
SALMON.
It is customary to serve a slice of the thick part of the back of
this fish, which is marked from a to b, with one of the thinner and
richer portions of it, shown by the line from c to d. It should be
carved quite straight across, and the fine flakes of the flesh should
be preserved as entire as possible. Salmon-peel, pike, haddocks,
large whitings, and all fish which are served curled round, and with
the backs uppermost, are carved in the same manner; the flesh is
separated from the bone in the centre of the back, and taken off, on
the outer side first, in convenient portions for serving. The flesh of
mackerel is best raised from the bones by passing the fish-slice from
the tail to the head : it may then be divided in two.
No. 4. SADDLE OF MUTTON.
The manner of trussing this joint varies almost from season to


CARVING.
xxxix
season, the mode which is considered in good taste one year being
obsolete the next, in families where passing fashions are closely
observed. It seems really immaterial whether it be served as shown
in the engraving; or whether two or three joints of the tail be left
on and surrounded with a paper frill. This joint is now trussed for
roasting in the manner shown in the engraving; and when it is
dished a silver skewer replaces the one marked e. It is likewise
often still served in good families with only two or three joints of the
tail left on. The most usual mode of carving it is in thin slices cut
quite along the bone, on either side, in the line a to b; but it is
sometimes sliced obliquely from c to d: this last fashion is rather
gaining ground. The thick end of the joint must then, of course, be
to the left of the carver. A saddle of pork or of lamb is carved
exactly in the same manner
No. 5. A HAUNCH OF VENISON (or MUTTON.)
An incision must first be made entirely across the knuckle end of
this joint, quite down to the bone, in the line a b, to let the gravy
escape; it must then be carved in thin slices taken as deep as they
can be, the whole length of the haunch, from c to d. A portion of
the fat should invariably be served with the venison.
No. 6.
SIRLOIN OR RUMP OF BEEF.
As the very tender part of this favourite joint, which lies under
the bone, and is called the fillet, is preferred by many eaters, the beef
should be raised, and some slices be taken from it in the direction
a b, before the carver proceeds further. The slices should be cut
quite across the joint, from side to side, as indicated by the line from
c to d, in which direction the whole of the meat is occasionally
carved, though it is much more usual to slice the upper part from
e to f. When the brown outside has been taken off this, it should
be evenly carved in thin slices, and served with some of the gravy in
the dish, and accompanied with horse-radish very lightly and finely
scraped, with tufts of which the beef is commonly garnished.
RIBS OF BEEF
Are carved in the same manner as the sirloin ; but there is no fillet
attached to them.
A ROUND OF BEEF.
To carve this well, a very sharp-edged and thin-bladed knife is
requisite. A thick slice should first be taken entirely off the top of
the joint, leaving it very smooth ; it should then be cut as thin and


al
CARVING.
as evenly as possible, and delicate slices of the fat or udder should be
served with the lean
A BRISKET OF BEEF
Is carved in slices quite across the bones.
No. 7. LEG OF MUTTON.
This, whether roast or boiled, is dished as it lies in the engraving,
unless when fanciful eaters prefer the underside of the joint laid
uppermost, and carved quite across the middle, for the sake of the
finely grained meat which lies beneath the part commonly called the
Pope's eye. In a general way, the mutton should be sliced, rather
thick than thin as directed by the line between ab; the fat will be
found in the direction c d.
No. 8. QUARTER OF LAMD.
The shoulder must be divided, and raised entirely from the breast
in the direction of the letters a b c d. A slice of butter sprinkled
with cayenne and salt is then usually laid between them, and a little
lemon-juice is added, or cold Mâitre d'Hotel sauce is substituted for
these. The shoulder may then be removed into another dish or
not, as is most convenient. The brisket is next separated from the
long bones in the line e f, and carved in the direction g h; the rib-
bones are divided from i i to j ;. The choice of the different parts
is offered in serving them.
No. 9. SHOULDER OF MUTTON OR LAMB,
Commence by cutting from the outer edge direct to the bone of
the shoulder in the line a b, and carve as many slices from that part
of the joint as it will afford: then, if more be required, draw the
knife on either side of the ridge of the blade-bone in the direction
ccdd. The fat must be carved in the line e f. Some eaters have
a preference for the juicy, but not very finely-grained flesh on the
under-side of the shoulder, which must be turned, for it to be carved.
For the mode of boning a shoulder of mutton or veal, and giving it
a more agreeable appearance, see 219.
No. 10.
A SUCKING PIG.
Every part of a sucking pig is good, but some persons consider the
Alesh of the neck which lies between the shoulders, and the ribs as
the most delicate portion of it. The shoulders themselves are pre-
ferred by others. They should be taken off, and the legs also, by
passing the knife under them at the lettes a b c. The ribs may then


CARVING.
be easily divided from e to d. The flesh only of the larger joints
should be served to ladies ; but gentlemen often prefer it sent to
them on the bones.
A FILLET OP VEAL.
There is no difference between the mode of carving this and a round
of beef; but the brown outside slice of the veal is much liked by
many eaters, and a portion of it should be served to them when it is
known to be so. The forcemeat must be reached by cutting deeply
into the flap, and a slice of it served always with the veal.
A LOIN OF VEAL.
This may be carved at choice quite across through the thick part
of the flesh, or in slices taken in the direction of the bones. A slice
of the kidney, and of the fat which surrounds it, should accompany
the veal.
No. 11.
A BREAST OF VEAL.
The brisket or gristles* of this joint must first be entirely separated
from the rib-bones by pressing the knife quite through it in the line
between a and b; this part may then be divided as shown by the
letters cccddd, and the long bones or ribs may easily be separated
in the direction e f. The taste of those who are served should be
consulted as to the part of the joint which is preferred. The sweet-
bread is commonly sent to table with a roast breast of veal, and laid
upon it: a portion of it should be served with every plate of the
breast.
No. 12.
A TONGUE.
This is sliced, not very thin, through the thickest and best part,
shown by the letters a b. The fat of the root, when it is liked, must
be carved by turning the tongue, and cutting in the direction c d.
No. 13.
A CALF'S DEAD.
An entire calf's head, served in its natural form, recalls too forcibly
* The tendons are literally the small white gristles themselves, which are found
under the flesh in this part of the joint. When freed from the bone attached to
them, they may be dressed in a variety of ways, and are extremely good: but they
require from four to six hours' stewing to render them perfectly tender, ev
when each tendon is divided into three or four slices. The upper flesh must be
laid back from the tendons before they are taken from the breast, not left ad.
hering to them. They are very good simply stewed in white gravy, and served
with green peas, à la Française, in the centre. The breast entirely boned, forced,
and rolled, makes a handsome dish, either roasted or stewed.


xlii
CARVING.
the appearance of the living animal to which it has belonged not to
be very uninviting. Even
when the half of one only is sent to table
something of the same aspect remains, and as it is in every way im-
proved, and rendered most easy to carve when boned * and rolled, we
would recommend its being so prepared whenever it can be done
without difficulty. Our engraving does
not give a very flattering representation of
it in that form, but having been dressed
with the skin on, it was not quite so easily
brought into handsome shape as if it had
been freed from it; yet we would nevertheless advise its being gene-
rally retained. When the head is served without being boned, it is
carved across the cheek, in the line from a to b; the part which in
flavour and appearance resembles a sweetbread, and which is regarded
as a delicacy, lies in the direction indicated by the letters c d. The
flesh of the eye is another favourite morsel, which must be detached
from the head by passing the point of the carving knife deeply round
the eye-hole, in the circle marked e e.
No. 14.
A HAM.
Strict economists sometimes commence the carving of a ham at the
knuckle, and so gradually reach the choicer portion of it; but this
method is not at all to be recommended. It should be cut at once
through the thick part of the flesh, quite down to the bone, in the
line a b, and sliced very thin and evenly, without separating the fat
from the lean. The decoration of the ham No. 14, is formed by
leaving on it a portion of the rind at the knuckle in a semi-circle,
and then trimming it into scollops or points at pleasure ; and the
ornamental part of the top is formed from the fat which is pared
away from the thick end and the edges. A paper ruffle, as will be
seen, is wrapped round the bone of the knuckle.
No. 15.
A PHEASANT.
This bird was formerly always sent to table with the head on, but
• This will be more easily accomplished by an experienced cook after the head
has been boiled for half an hour and then allowed to cool; but it should not be
left until cold before it is altogether prepared for dressing. After the bones are
removed, it should be laid on a clean cloth, and the inside sprinkled over or
rubbed with a little salt, mace, and cayenne, well mixed together; the tongue
may be laid upon, and rolled up in it. It must be secured, first with a skewer,
and then bound tightly round with tape. It should be boiled or stewed extremely
tender; and is excellent when just covered with good stock, and simmer for
two hours, or when strong broth is substituted for this, and the bones are added
to it. The head may be glazed, and served with rich brown gravy, or with the
ordinary sauces if preferred ; and it may be eaten cold, with Oxford brawn sauce,
which is compounded of brown sugar, vinegar, mustard, and salt, mixed to the
taste, with the addition of oil when it is liked.


CARVING.
xliii
it was a barbarous custom, which has been partially abandoned of late
in the best houses, and which it is hoped may soon be altogether
superseded by one of better taste. The breast is by far the finest
part of a pheasant, and it is carved in slices from pinion to pinion, in
the lines a a bb; the legs may then be taken off, in the direction c d.
The bird, when it is preferred so, may be entirely dismembered by the
directions for a fowl, No. 16. Black and moor-game are trussed and
served like pheasants. The breasts of both are very fine eating, and
the thigh of the black-cock is highly esteemed.
No. 16.
A BOILED FOWL.
The boiled fowl of plate 6 is represented as garnished with branches
of parsley, which is an error, as they would be appropriate to it only
if it were cold, and it is seldom served so, being considered insipid.
Small tufts of cauliflower would have been in better keeping with it,
as the bird is supposed to be dished for the dinner-table. Unless it
be for large family parties, fowls are seldom carved there entirely
into joints; but when it is wished to divide them so, the fork should
be fixed firmly in the centre of the breast, and the leg, being first
disengaged from the skin, may be taken off with the wing in the
line a b; or, the wing being previously removed, by carving it down
the line to b, and there separating it from the neck-bone, the leg may
be released from the skin, and easily taken off, by cutting round it
from a to c, and then turning it with the fork, back from the body,
when the joint will readily be perceived.
After the leg and wing on the other side have been taken off in
the same manner, the merrythought must follow. To
remove this, the knife must be drawn through the flesh
in the line d e, and then turned towards the neck quite
under the merrythought, which it will so lift from the
breast, in this form :-The neck-bones—which lie close
under the upper part of the wings, and are shaped thus
--must next be disengaged from the fowl, by putting
the knife in at the top of the joint, dividing the long
part of the bone from the flesh, and
breaking the short one off by raising it
up, and turning it from the body; the
breast, which is shown here, may then
be divided from it by merely cutting
through the tender ribs on either
side.
It is seldom that further disjointing than this is required at table;
but when it is necessary to cut up the entire fowl, the remainder of it
must be laid with the back uppermost, and
to take off the side-bones, which are of this
shape-the point of the knife must be
pressed through the back-bone, near the


xliv
CARVING.
top, about half an inch from the centre, and brought down towards
the end of the back, quite through the bone, then turned in the
opposite direction, when the joints will separate without difficulty.
All which then remains to be done is, to lay the edge of the knife
across the middle of the only two undivided bones, and then with
the fork to raise the small end of the fowl, which will part them
immediately: to carve a boiled fowl or chicken in a more modern
manner, see the directions which follow. The breast, wings, and
merrythought, are the most delicate parts of a fowl. On the upper
part of the side-bone is the small round portion of flesh called the
oyster, by many persons considered as a great delicacy.
No. 17.
A ROAST FOWL.
It is not usual to carve fowls entirely at table in the manner
described above. The wings, and any other joints are taken off only
as they are required. The breast of a very large fowl may be carved
in slices like that of a turkey; or the whole of that of a small one
may be taken off with the wings, as shown by the line a b. As the
liver is a delicacy, the handsomer mode of serving these last is to
remove the gizzard, which is seldom eaten, then to divide the liver,
and to send an equal portion of it with each wing. The whole of a
roast fowl may be carved by the directions we have alreadly given for
No. 16.
No. 18.
A PARTRIDGE.
When partridges are served to ladies only, or in parties where
they are present, it is now customary to take off the heads, to truss
the legs short, and to make them appear (in poulterer's phrase) all
breast. For gentlemen's dinners, the heads may be left on or not at
choice. The most ready mode of carving a partridge is to press back
the legs, then to fix the fork firmly in the inside of the back, and by
passing the blade of the knife flat under the lower part of the breast,
to raise it, with the wings, entire from the body, from which it easily
separates. The breast may then be divided in the middle, as shown
by the line from a to b in the engraving here.
This is by far the best and handsomest manner
of carving a partridge, but when the supply of
game at table is small, and it is necessary to
serve three persons from the choicer parts of
one bird, a not very large wing should be taken off with the leg on
either side, in the line from a to b in No. 13, and sufficient of the
breast will still remain to send to a third eater. The high game-
flavour of the back of a partridge, as well as that of various other
birds, * is greatly relished by many persons.
• A great man of the north eloquently describes that of a grouse as “the most
pungent, palate-piercing, wild bitter-sweet."


CARVING.
xlv
No. 19.
A WOODCOCK.
The thigh and back are the most esteemed parts of a woodcock,
which, being a small bird, may be carved entirely through the centre
of the breast and back, or distributed in the same manner as the
partridge for three, which we have described ; or even carved down
like a fowl, if needful. In whatever way it is divided, however, a
portion of the toast which has received the trail, and on which it
should always be sent to table, must invariably be served to all who
partake of it. The very old fashion of trussing the bird with its own
bill, by running it through the thighs and body, is again adopted
by very good cooks of the present day; but
the common method of preparing either wood-
cocks or snipes for table is this : the trussing
of the legs is, however, better shown at
Nos. 19 and 21 of Plate 6
No. 20.
A PIGEON.
The breast and wings of a pigeon may be raised in the same way
as those of a partridge (see No. 18); or the bird may be carved
entirely through in the line a b. For the second course, pigeons
should be dished upon young delicate water-cresses
No. 21.
A SNIPE.
A GOOSE.
This bird is trussed, roasted, and served exactly like a woodcock.
It is not of a size to require any carving, beyond dividing in two, if
at all.
No. 22.
The skin below the breast, called the apron, must first be cut off in
a circular direction as indicated by the letters a a a, when a glass of
port-wine or of claret, ready mixed with a teaspoonful of mustard,
may be poured into the body or not, at choice. Some of the stuffing
should then be drawn out with a spoon, and the neck of the goose,
which ought to be to the right and not to the left hand, as here,
being turned a little towards the carver, the flesh of the breast should
be sliced in the lines from b b b to c cc, on either side of the bone
The wings may then be taken off like those of any other bird, and
then the legs, which, in the engraving No. 22, are trussed so com-
pletely under the apron as to render their outline scarcely dis-
tinguishable. Graceful and well-skilled carvers never turn birds on
their sides to remove any of the joints, but those of a goose, unless it
be very young, are sometimes severed from it with difficulty; and
the common directions for assisting the process in that case are, to
turn it on its side, and with the fork to press down the small end of


xlvi
CARVING.
the leg; then to pass the knife quite under it from the top down to
the joint, when the leg should be turned back from the bird with the
fork, while the thigh-bone is loosened from its socket with the knife.
The end of the pinion marked d is then held down in the same
manner, to facilitate the separation of the bones at e, from which
point the knife is drawn under the wing, which it takes off. The
merrythought of a goose is small, and, to remove it the knife must
first be turned a little from the neck, after the flesh has been cut
through, and then passed under it, back towards the neck. For the
remainder of the carving, the directions for that of a fowl will
suffice
DUCKS.
Tame ducks are served with the feet (which are liked by many
people) left upon them and trussed up over the backs. If large they
may be carved like a goose, but when very young may be disjointed
like chickens; the only material difference between them being the
position of the thigh-joints, which lie much further towards the
back-bone than those of a fowl.
A WILD DUCK.
No. 23.
The breasts of wild-fowl are the only parts of them held in much
estimation, and these are carved in slices from the legs to the neck.
The legs and pinions may, if required, be taken off exactly like those
of a pheasant.
No. 24. A TURKEY.
The carving of a turkey commences by taking slices off the breast,
from the letters b b quite through the forcemeat, which lies under
the letter a, to cc: the greater part of the flesh of the wings is thus
taken off likewise. When the bird is boned and filled with sausage
or other forcemeat, the breast is carved entirely across in the direc-
tion de, nearly, or quite down to the back, which it is better not
altogether to divide at first, as the appearance of the turkey is not
then so good. When it has been prepared in the ordinary manner,
after the breast has been disposed of, the pinions and the legs may be
taken off, the first in the line from f to g, and the latter by passing
the knife under it at h, and bringing it down to the joint at ij, where
it must be taken off in the line shown. The whole of the joints
being in form exactly like those of a fowl, may be separated in the
same manner. The gizzard is more commonly eaten broiled after
having been scored, and very highly seasoned with cayenne and with
a sufficiency of salt, than in any other way. A slice or portion of
the liver should be served with the white flerh of the turkey as far
as possible.


CARVING.
xlvü
No. 25.
A HARE.
A hare should be placed with its head to the left of the carver,
therefore the engraving No. 25 shows it turned in the wrong direc-
tion. It is so very great an improvement to take out the back-bone
before a bare is roasted, that we would recommend it to be done
wherever it can be so without difficulty: it may then be carved in
the line a b quite through, or only partially so at choice. When the
bone remains in, slices may be taken down the whole length of the
back from cc to dd; the legs, which, next to the back, are con-
sidered the best eating, may then be taken off in the direction e f,
and the flesh divided from or served upon them, after the small
bones have been parted from the thighs. The shoulders, which are
not generally much esteemed, though sometimes liked by sportsmen,
may next be taken off by passing the knife at the letters g h between
the joint and the body. When a hare is young, the back is some-
times divided at the joints into three or four parts, after being freed
from the ribs and under-skin.
No. 27.
A FRICANDEAU OF VEAL.
This is usually stewed, or rather braised sufficiently tender to be
divided with a spoon, and requires no carving; but the fat (or under-
part of the fillet) attached to it, marked a a a, which is sometimes,
but not invariably served with it now, may be carved in even slices.
The larding differs somewhat from that which we have described, but
The mode shown here allows the fricandeau to be glazed with more
facility
The engraving of the entrée No. 26 is intended merely to show the
manner of dishing the cutlets. They may be of mutton, lamb, veal,
or pork; and the centre may be filled with the sauce or stewed
vegetable appropriate to either; as soubise, purée of asparagus, of
mushrooms, or of tomatas; or green peas à la Française, stewed
cucumbers, or aught else that is suited to the kind of meat which is
served.





2

SADDLE
MITTON
5

HATY II
OF
VEJISJON
6

SIR1OIX
OF
BEFF


-
THE NEW YORK
PUBLIC LIRDARY
ASTOR, LENOX A:D
TILDEN FOUNDAT,:)


Plate 3
7

IF G
(F MY TION

QTARTER OF
LAMB

SHOULDER
OF MUTTON


THE NEW YORK
PUBLICITARY
ASTOR ALMOX AND
TILCEN FOLDAT NS


Plate &
10


SICKING
PIG
21

BREAST
OF VEAL


THE NEW YORK
PUBLIC LIBRARY
ASTOR, LENOX AND
TILDEN FOUNDATIONS.


12
Plate 5

OX TONGUE
13

CALF'S
HEAD
14

F1 Α Ν


THE NEW YORK
PUBLIC LIBRARY
ASTOR, LENOX AND
TILDEN FOUNDATIONS.


Plate 6
15

18
19
PHEASANT
PARTRIDE
WOODCOCK
16

BOILED FOWL
20
27
PIGEON
17
SNIPE

RISI
FOWL


Ti.
PIEL
ASTOR, LINUX A'
TILDEN FOUNDATIONS.


Plate 7
22

( ) (0S E
23

WILD
DUCK

TURKEY


THE:
PUBLICIT
TY
ASTOR, LENOX AND
TILDEN FOUNDATIONS.


26

ENTRFE
OF
CT TIETS
25

HARE
27

FRICANDEAU
OF
VFAL


.
THEN
RK
PUBLIC LIBRITY
ASTOR, LENOX AND
TILDEN FOUNDATIONS.


MODERN COOKERY.

CHAPTER I.
Soups.
INGREDIENTS WHICH MAY ALL BE USED FOR MAKING SOUP OF VARIOUS KINDS :-
Beef-Mutton—Veal-Hams-Salted Pork-Fat Bacon-Pigs' Ears and Feet
- Venison-Black and Moor Game-Partridges-Pheasants—Wild Pigeons-
Hares-Rabbits—Turkeys-Fowls—Tame Pigeons-Sturgeon-Conger Eel,
with all sorts of Fish usually eaten-All Shell-Fish–Every kind of Vegetable
and Herb fit for food-Butter, Milk-Eggs— Rice-Sago - Arrow-Ront-
Indian Corn-Hominy–Soujee-Tapioca— Pearl Barley—Oatmeal – Polenta*
-Macaroni-Vermicelli-Semoulina, and other Italian Pastes.
The art of preparing good, wholesome, palatable soups, without great
expense, which is so well understood in France, and in other coun-
tries where they form part of the daily food of all classes of the
• The name given in English commerce to the maize-flour of meal of Italy.
B


2
[CHAP 1
MODERN COOKERY.
people, has hitherto been very much neglected in England ; * yet is
really presents no difficulties which a little practice, and the most
common degree of care, will not readily overcome; and we strongly
recommend increased attention to it, not only on account of the loss
and inconvenience which ignorance of it occasions in many house-
holds, but because a better knowledge of it will lead naturally to
improvement in other branches of cookery connected with it in
which our want of skill is now equally apparent.
We have endeavoured to show by the list at the beginning of this
chapter the immense number of different articles of which soup may
be in turn compounded. It is almost superfluous to add, that it may
be rendered at pleasure exceedingly rich, or simple in the extreme;
composed, in fact, of all that is most choice in diet, or of little beyond
herbs and vegetables,
From the varied produce of a well-stored kitchen garden, it may be
made excellent at a very trifling cost ; and where fish is fresh and
abundant it may be cheaply supplied nearly equal in quality to that
for which a full proportion of meat is commonly used.
It is best suited to the colder seasons of the year when thickened
well with rice, semoulina, pearl barley, or other ingredients of the
same nature; and adapted to the summer months when lighter and
more refreshing. Families who have resided much abroad, and those
accustomed to continental modes of service, prefer it usually in any
form to the more solid and heavy dishes which still often supersede
it altogether at our tablest (except at those of the more affluent
classes of society, where it appears, as a matter of course, in the daily
bills of fare), and which are so oppressive, not only to foreigners, but
to all persons generally to whom circumstances have rendered them
unaccustomed diet; and many a housekeeper who is compelled by a
narrow income to adopt a system of rigid domestic economy, would
find it assist greatly in furnishing comfortable meals in a very frugal
manner, if the proper modes of making it were fully comprehende!
as they ought to be.
The reader who desires to understand the principles of soup.
making is advised to study with attention the directions for “ Baron
Liebeg's Extract of Beef," in the present chapter, and the receipt for
bouillon which follows it.
A FEW DIRECTIONS TO THE COOK.
In whatever vessel soup is boiled, see that it be perfectly clean,
• The inability of servants to prepare delicately and well even a little broth
suited to an invalid, is often painfully evident in cases of illness, not only
in common English life, but where the cookery is supposed to be of a superior
order.
+ The popular taste in England, even at the present day, is far more in favour
of what is termed “substantial" food, than of any kind of pottage.
We are unable to give further space to this subject here, but may probably
resume it at another part of the book if practicable.


CHAP. I.]
3
SOUPS.
and let the inside of the cover and the rim be equally so. Wash
the meat, and prepare the vegetables with great nicety before
they are laid into it; and be careful to keep it always closely shut
when it is on the fire. Never, on any account, set the soup by in it,
but strain it off at once into a clean pan, and fill the stock-pot imme-
diately with water; pursue the same plan with all stew pans and
saucepans directly they are emptied.
Skim the soup thoroughly when it first begins to boil, or it will
not be easy afterwards to render it clear; throw in some salt, which
will assist to bring the scum to the surface, and when it has all been
taken off, add the herbs and vegetables; for if not long stewed in the
soup, their flavour will prevail too strongly. Remember that the
trimmings, and the bones of fresh meat, the necks of poultry, the
liquor in which a joint has been boiled, and the shank-bones of
mutton, are all excellent additions to the stock-pot, and should be
carefully reserved for it. The remains of roast poultry and game
also will improve both the colour and the flavour of broth or soup.
Let the soup be very slowly heated, and after it has been well
skimmed, and has boiled for a few minutes, draw it to the side of
the stove and keep it simmering softly, but without ceasing, until
it is done; for on this, as will hereafter be shown, its excellence
principally depends. Every good cook understands perfectly the
difference produced by the fast boiling, or the gentle stewing, of soups
and gravies, and will adhere strictly to the latter method. *
Pour boiling water, in small quantities at first, to the meat and
vegetables of which the soup is to be made when they have been
fried or browned; but otherwise, always add cold water to the meat.
Unless precise orders to the contrary have been given, onions,
eschalots, and garlic, should be used for seasoning with great mode-
ration; for not only are they very offensive to many eaters, but to
persons of delicate habit their effects are sometimes extremely preju.
dicial; and it is only in coarse cookery that their flavour is allowed
ever strongly to prevail.
A small proportion of sugar, about an ounce to the gallon, will
very much improve the flavour of gravy-stock, and of all rich
brown soups; it may be added also to some others with advantage ;
and for this, directions will be given in the proper places.
Two ounces of salt may be allowed for each gallon of soup or
broth, in which large quantities of vegetables are stewed; but an
ounce and a half will be sufficient for such as contain few or none; it
is always easy to add more if needful, but oversalting in the first
It is most difficult to render rapidly-boiled soup or gravy clear for table :
but that which is only simmered will clarify itself if allowed to remain undis-
turbed for some little time (half an hour or so) after it is withdrawn from the
fire ; it should then be poured very gently from the sediment. Calf's feet
stock likewise may be converted into transparent jelly with far greater facility
when it has not been thickened by too quick boiling, by which so many pre-
parations in our English kitchens are injured.


4
[CHAP. I
MODERN COOKERY.
instance is a fault for which there is no remedy but that of increase
ing the proportions of all the other ingredients, and stewing the
whole afresh, which occasions needless trouble and expense, even
when time will admit of its being done.
As no particle of fat should be seen floating on soup when sent to
table, it is desirable that the stock should be made the day before
it is wanted, that it may become quite cold; when the fat may be
entirely cleared off without difficulty.
When cayenne pepper is not mixed with rice-flour, or with any
other thickening, grind it down with the back of a spoon, and stir :
little liquid to it before it is thrown into the stewpan, as it is apt to
remain in lumps, and to occasion great irritation of the throat when
swallowed so.
Serve, not only soups and sauces, but all other dishes, as hot eis
possible.
THE TIME REQUIRED FOR BOILING DOWN SOUP OR STOCK.
This must be regulated by several considerations ; for though the
mere juices of meat require but little boiling after they have been
fully extracted by the slow heating recommended by Baron Liebeg,
soup to which many vegetables are added (winter vegetables espe-
cially) requires long stewing to soften and to blend properly the
flavour of all the ingredients which it contains, as that of no one in
particular ought to be allowed to predominate over the rest. We
have in consequence retained the old directions as to time, in many of
the following receipts; but an intelligent cook will soon ascertain
from practice and observation how and when to vary it with ad-
vantage. Over-boiling renders all preparations insipid, and causes
undue reduction of them likewise: it is a fault, therefore, which
should be carefully avoided.
TO THICKEN SOUPS.
Except for white soups, to which arrow-root is, we think, more
appropriate, we prefer, to all other ingredients generally used for
this purpose, the finest and freshest rice-flour, which, after being
passed through a lawn sieve, should be thoroughly blended with
the salt, pounded spices, catsup, or wine, required to finish the
flavouring of the soup. Sufficient liquid should be added to it very
gradually to render it of the consistence of batter, and it should also
be perfectly smooth; to keep it so, it should be moistened sparingly
at first, and beaten with the back of a spoon until every lump has
disappeared. The soup should boil quickly when the thickening is
stirred into it, and be simmered for ten minutes afterwards. From
an ounce and a half to two ounces of rice-flour will thicken suf-
ficiently a quart of soup.
Instead of this, arrow-root or the condiment known by the name
of tous les mois, which greatly resembles it, or potato flour, or the
French thickening called roux (see Chapter V.), may be used in the


CHAP. I.
5
SOUPS.
following proportions :—Two and a half ounces of either of the first
three, to four pints and a half of soup; to be mixed gradually with
a little cold stock or water, stirred into the boiling soup, and sim-
mered for a minute.
Six ounces of flour with seven of butter, made into a roux, or
njerely mixed together with a large knife, will be required to thicken
a tureen of soup; as much as half a pound is sometimes used ;
these must be added by degrees, and carefully stirred round in
the soup until smoothly blended with it, or they will remain in
lumps. We would, however, recommend any other thickening rather
than this unwholesome mixture.
All the ingredients used for soups should be fresh, and of good
quality, particularly Italian pastes of every kind (macaroni, vermi-
celli, &c.), as they contract, by long keeping, a peculiarly unpleasant,
musty flavour.
Onions, freed from the outer skin, dried gradually to a deep
brown, in a slow oven, and flattened like Norfolk biffins, will keep
for almost any length of time, and are extremely useful for height-
ening the colour and flavour of broths and gravies.*
TO FRY BREAD TO SERVE WITH SOUP.
Cut some slices a quarter of an inch thick from a stale loaf; pare
off the crust and divide the bread into dice, or cut it with a small
paste-cutter into any other form. For half a pound of bread put
two ounces of the best butter into a frying-pan, and when it is quite
melted, add the bread ; keep it turned over a gentle fire until it is
equally coloured to a very pale brown, then drain it from the butter,
and dry it on a soft cloth, or on a sheet of paper placed before a
clear fire upon a dish, or upon a sieve reversed.
SIPPETS À LA REINE.
Having cut the bread as for common sippets, spread it on a dish,
and pour over it a few spoonsful of thin cream, or of good milk: let
it soak for an hour, then fry it in fresh butter of a delicate brown,
drain and serve the sippets very hot.
TO MAKE NOUILLES.
(An elegant substitute for Vermicelli.)
Wet with the yolks of four eggs, as much fine dry sifted flour as
will make them into a firm but very smooth paste. Roll it out as
thin as possible, and cut it into bands of about an inch and a quarter
in width. Dust them lightly with flour, and place four of them one
upon the other. Cut them obliquely into the finest possible strips ;
separate them with the point of a knife, and spread them upon writing
• The fourth part of one these dried onions (des ognons brilés), of moderate
size, is sufficient for å tureen of soup. They are sold very commonly in Franco,
and may be procured in London at many good foreign warehouses.


6
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. L.
paper, so that they may dry a little before they are used. Drop them
gradually into the boiling soup, and in ten minutes they will be done.
Various other forms may be given to this paste at will. It may be
divided into a sort of ribbon macaroni; or stamped with small con-
fectionary cutters into different shapes. It is much used in the more
delicate departments of cookery, and when cut as for soup, and pre-
pared as for the Genoises à la Reine of Chapter XVIII. makes very
superior puddings, pastry, fritters, and other sweet dishes.
1
VEGETABLE VERMICELLI.
(Vegetables cut very fine for soups.)
Cut the carrots into inch lengths, then pare them round and round in
ribands of equal thickness, till the inside is reached ; next cut these
ribands into straws, or very small strips; celery is prepared in the same
way, and turnips also are first pared into ribands, then sliced into strips ;
these last require less boiling than the carrots, and attention must be
paid to this, for if broken, the whole would have a bad appearance in
soup. The safer plan is to boil each vegetable separately, till tole-
rably tender, in a little pale broth (in water if this be not at hand),
to drain them well, and put them into the soup, which should be clear,
only a few minutes before it is dished. For cutting them small, in
other forms, the proper instruments will be found at the iron-
monger's.
EXTRACT OF BEEF ;
OR, VERY STRONG PLAIN BEEF GRAVY SOUP.
(Baron Liebeg's Receipt.)
OBSERVATION.—This admirable preparation is not only most valu-
able as a restorative of the best kind for invalids who require light but
highly nutritious diet, it is also of the utmost utility for the general
purposes of the kitchen, and will enable a cook who can take skilful
advantage of it, to convert the cold meat which often abounds so in-
conveniently in an English larder, from our habit of having joints of
large size so much served, into good nourishing dishes, which the
hashes and minces of our common cookery are not, though they may
answer well enough as mere varieties of diet. We shall indicate in
the proper chapters the many other uses to which this beef juice-for
such indeed it is—will be found eminently adapted. Of its value in
illness it is impossible to speak too highly; and in every family, there-
fore, the exact mode of making it ought to be thoroughly understood.
The economist who may consider it expensive, must remember that
drugs and medical advice are usually far more so; and in cases of ex-
treme debility the benefit derived from it, when it is well prepared
and judiciously administered, is often remarkable. It should be given
in small quantities at first, and in its pure state. It may afterwards be
varied hy the addition of vermicelli, semoulina, or other preparations


CHAP. I.]
7
SOUPS.
of the kind; and also by using for it a portion of mutton, calfs head,
poultry, or game, when these suit a patient as well as the beef.
RECEIPT.-Take a pound of good, juicy beef (rumpsteak is best for
the purpose), from which all the skin and fat that can possibly be
separated from it, has been cut away. Chop it up small like sausage-
meat; then mix it thoroughly with an exact pint of cold water, and
place it on the side of the stove to heat very slowly indeed ; and give
it an occasional stir. It may stand two or three hours before it is
allowed to simmer, and will then require at the utmost but fifteen
minutes of gentle boiling. Professor Liebeg directs even less time
than this, but the soup then occasionally retains a raw flavour which
is distasteful. Salt should be added when the boiling first commences,
and for invalids, this, in general, is the only seasoning required.
When the extract is thus far prepared, it may be poured from the
meat into a basin, and allowed to stand until any particles of fat it
may exhibit on the surface can be skimmed off entirely, and the sedi-
ment has subsided and left the soup quite clear (which it speedily
becomes), when it may be poured gently off, heated in a clean sauce-
pan, and served at once. It will contain all the nutriment which the
meat will yield. The scum should always be well cleared from the
surface of the soup as it accumulates.
To make light beef tea or broth, merely increase the proportion of
water to a pint and a half or a quart; but in all else proceed as above.
Meat (without fat or skin), 1 lb.; cold water, exact pint: heating
2 hours or more ; to boil 15 minutes at the utmost. Beef tea or
broth.-Beef, 1 lb.; water, 1} pint or 1 quart.
Obs.—To mingle vegetable diet in its best form with this extract, it
will be sufficient, as we have explained in “ Cookery for Invalids,” to
boil down the kind of vegetable desired, sliced or cut up small, in a
very moderate quantity of water, until its juices are well drawn out;
then to strain off the liquid from it with slight pressure, and, when
it has become cold, to pour it to the chopped meat instead of water.
Several different sorts can be mixed together, and cooked in this way:
the water must boil before they are added to it.
They should be much more tender than when merely boiled for
table, but not reduced to pulp. The juice should remain clear; no
salt should be added ; and it should be quite cold before it is stirred
to the meat.
When the extract is wanted for gravy, a small portion of onion,
and of herbs, carrots, celery, and the other usual vegetables, may be
stewed together, to give it the requisite flavour.
About an inch square of the Jewish beef (see Chapter of FOREIGN
COOKERY), whether cooked or uncooked, wil) impart a fine savour to
it; the smoked surface of this should be pared off before it is used,
and it may be added in thin slices.


8
CHAP. L.
MODERN COOKERY.
BOUILLON.
(The Common Soup or Beef-Broth of France ; cheap, and very whole-
some.)
This soup, or broth as we should perhaps designate it in England,
is made once or twice in the week, in every family of respectability in
France; and by the poorer classes as
often as their means will enable them to
substitute it for the vegetable or maigre
soups, on which they are more commonly
obliged to subsist. It is served usually
on the first day with slices of untoasted
bread soaked in it; on the second, it is
generally varied with vermicelli, rice,
or semoulina. The ingredients are, of
course, often otherwise proportioned
than as we have given them, and more or less meat is allowed
according to the taste or circumstances of the persons for whom
the bouillon is prepared; but the process of making it is always the
same, and is thus described (rather learnedly) by one of the most
skilful cooks in Europe : “The stock-pot of the French artisan,"
says Monsieur Carême, “supplies his principal nourishment; and
it is thus managed by his wife, who, without the slightest know-
ledge of chemistry, conducts the process in a truly scientific man-
ner. She first lays the meat into an earthen stock-pot, and pours cold
water to it in the proportion of about two quarts to three pounds of
the beef;* she then places it by the side of the fire, where it slowly
becomes hot; and as it does so, the heat enlarges the fibre of the meat,
dissolves the gelatinous substances which it contains, allows the albu-
men (or the muscular part which produces the scum) to disengage
itself, and rise to the surface, and the ozMAZOME (which is the most
savoury part of the meat) to be diffused through the broth. Thus, from
the simple circumstance of boiling it in the gentlest manner, a relish-
ing and nutritious soup, will be obtained, and a dish of tender and
palatable meat; but if the pot be placed and kept over a quick fire,
the albumen will coagulate, harden the meat, prevent the water from
penetrating it, and the osmazome from disengaging itself; the result
will be a broth without flavour or goodness, and a tough, dry bit of
meat."
It must be observed in addition, that as the meat of which the
bouillon is made, is almost invariably sent to table, a part of the rump,
the inouse-buttock, or the leg-of-mutton piece of beef, should be
selected for it; and the simmering should be continued only until this
is perfectly tender.
When the object is simply to make good, pure-
• This is a large proportion of meat for the family of a French artisan ;
a pound to the quart would be nearer the reality ; but it is not the refuse-meat
which would be purchased by persons of the same rank in England for making
broth


CHAP. I.]
SOUPS.
9
flavoured, beef broth, part of the shin or leg, with a pound or two of
the neck, will best answer the purpose. When the bouilli (that is to
say, the beef which is boiled in the soup), is to be served, bind it into
a good shape, add to it a calf's foot if easily procurable, as this much
improves the quality of the bouillon; pour cold water to it in the pro-
portion mentioned above, and proceed, as Monsieur Carême directs, to
heat the soup slowly by the side of the fire; remove carefully the
head of scum which will gather on the surface before the boiling com-
mences, and continue the skimming at intervals for about twenty
minutes longer, pouring in once or twice a little cold water. Next,
add salt in the proportion of two ounces to the gallon ; this will cause
a little more scum to rise ; clear it quite off and throw in three or
four turnips, as many carrots, half a head of celery, four or five young
leeks, an onion stuck with six or eight cloves, a large half tea-spoon-
ful of peppercorns, and a bunch of savoury herbs. Let the whole
stew VERY softly without ceasing, from four hours and a half to six
hours, according to the quantity: the beef in that time will be ex-
tremely tender but not overdone. It will be excellent eating if pro-
perly managed, and might often, we think, be substituted with great
advantage for the hard, half-boiled, salted beef so often seen at an
English table. It should be served with a couple of cabbages, which
have been first boiled in the usual way, then pressed very dry, and
stewed for ten minutes in a little of the broth, and seasoned with
pepper and salt.
The other vegetables from the bouillon may
be laid round it or not at choice. The soup if served on the same
day must be strained, well cleared from fat, and sent to table with
fried or toasted bread, unless the continental mode of putting slices or
crusts of untoasted bread into the tureen, and soaking them for ten
minutes in a ladleful or two of the bouillon, be, from custom, pre-
ferred.
Beef, 8 to 9 lbs. ; water, 6 quarts ; salt, 3 oz. (more, if needed);
carrots, 4 to 6; turnips, 4 or 5; celery, one small head; leeks, 4 to
6; one onion, stuck with 6 cloves; peppercorns, one small teaspoon-
ful; large bunch of savoury herbs (calf's foot if convenient); to
simmer 5 to 6 hours.
Obs. 1.—This broth forms in France the foundation of all richer
soups and gravies. Poured on fresh meat (a portion of which should
be veal) instead of water, it makes at once an excellent consommé or
strong jellied stock. If properly managed, it is very clear and pale ;
and with an additional weight of beef and some spoonsful of glaze,
may easily be converted into an amber-coloured gravy-soup, suited to
modern taste.
Obs. 2.-It is a common practice abroad to boil poultry, pigeons,
and even game, in the pot-au-feu or soup-pot.* They should be pro-
perly trussed, stewed in the broth just long enough to render them
tender, and served, when ready, with a good sauce. A small ham,
if well soaked, washed exceedingly clean, and freed entirely from any
• In wealthy families the soup is boiled in a metal soup-pot, called a marmite.


10
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. I
rusty or blackened parts, laid with the beef when the water is first
added to it, and boiled from three hours and a half to four hours in
the bouillon, is very superior in flavour to those cooked in water only,
and infinitely improves the soup, which cannot however so well be
eaten until the following day, when all the fat can easily be taker
from it: it would, of course, require no salt.
CLEAR, PALE GRAVY SOUP OR CONSOMMÉ.
Rub a deep stewpan or soup-pot with butter, and lay into it
three quarters of a pound of ham freed entirely from fat, skin,
and rust, four pounds of leg or neck of veal, and the same weight
of lean beef, all cut into thick slices; set it over a clear and rather
brisk fire, until the meat is of a fine amber-colour ; it must be often
moved, and closely watched, that it may not stick to the pan, nor
burn. When it is equally browned, lay the bones upon it, and
pour in gradually four quarts of boiling water. Take off the scum
carefully as it rises, and throw in a pint of cold water at intervals
to bring it quickly to the surface. When no more appears, add
two ounces of salt, two onions, two large carrots, two turnips, one
head of celery, a faggot of savoury herbs, a dozen cloves, half a tea-
spoonful of whole white pepper, and two large blades of mace. Let
the soup boil gently from five hours and a half to six hours and
a half; then strain it through a very clean fine cloth, laid in a
hair sieve. When it is perfectly cold, remove every particle of fat
from the top; and, in taking out the soup, leave the sediment un-
touched; heat in a clean pan the quantity required for table, add salt
to it if needed, and a few drops of chili or of cayenne vinegar. Har.
vey's sauce, or very fine mushroom catsup, may be substituted for
these. When thus prepared the soup is ready to serve: it should be
accompanied by pale sippets of fried bread, or sippets à la reine. (At
tables where English modes of service entirely prevailed, clear gravy-
soup, until very recently, was always accompanied by dice, or sip-
pets as they are called, of delicately toasted bread. These are now
seldom seen, but some Italian paste, or nicely prepared vegetable, is
served in the soup instead). Rice, macaroni in lengths or in rings,
vermicelli, or nouilles, may in turn be used to vary it; but they must
always be boiled apart, tili tender, in broth or water, and well drained
before they are slipped into it. The addition of young vegetables,
too, and especially of asparagus, will convert it into superior spring-
soup; but they, likewise, must be separately cooked.
ANOTHER RECEIPT FOR GRAVY SOUP.
Instead of browning the meat in its own juices, put it with the onions
and carrots, into a deep stewpan, with a quarter of a pint of bouillon ;
set it over a brisk fire at first, and when the broth is somewhat re-
duced, let it boil gently until it has taken a fine colour, and forms a


CHAP. I.]
11
SOUPS.
glaze (or jelly) at the bottom of the stewpan; then pour to it the pro-
per quantity of water, and finish the soup by the preceding receipt.*
obs.-A'rich, old-fashioned English brown gravy-soup may be made
with beef only. It should be cut
from the bones, dredged with flour,
seasoned with pepper and salt, and fried a clear brown; then stewed for
six hours, if the quantity be large, with a pint of water to each pound
of meat, and vegetables as above, except onions, of which four mode-
rate-sized ones, also fried, are to be added to every three quarts of
the soup, which, after it has been strained and cleared from fat, may
be thickened with six ounces of fresh butter, worked up very smoothly
with five of flour. In twenty minutes afterwards, a tablespoonful of
the best soy, half a pint of sherry, and a little cayenne, may be added
to the soup, which will then be ready to serve.
CHEAP, CLEAR GRAVY SOUP.
The shin or leg of beef, if not large or coarse, will answer extremely
well for this soup, and afford at the same time a highly economical
dish of boiled meat, which will be found very tender, and very palat-
able also, if it be served with a sauce of some piquancy. From about
ten pounds of the meat let the but her cut evenly off five or six from
the thick fleshy part, and again divide the knuckle, that the whole
may lie compactly in the vessel in which it is to be stewed. Pour in
three quarts of cold water, and when it has been brought slowly to
boil, and been well skimmed, as directed for bouillon (Page 8), throw
in an ounce and a half of salt, half a large teaspoonful of pepper-
corns, eight cloves, two blades of mace, a faggot of savoury herbs, a
couple of small carrots, and the heart of a root of celery; to these add
a mild onion or not, at choice. When the whole has stewed very
softly for four hours, probe the larger bit of beef, and if quite tender,
lift it out for table ; let the soup be simmered from two to three hours
longer, and then strain it through a fine sieve, into a clean pan.
When it is perfectly cold, clear off every particle of fat ; heat a couple
of quarts, stir in, when it boils, half an cunce of sugar, a small table-
spoonful of good soy, and twice as much of Harvey's sauce, or instead
of this, of clear and fine mushroom catsup. If carefully made, the
* The juices of meat, drawn out with a small portion of liquid, as directed
here, may easily be reduced to the consistency in which they form what is called
glaze; for particulars of this, see Chapter IV. The best method, though perhaps
not the easiest, of making the clear, amber-coloured stock, is to
pour a ladleful
or two of pale but strong beef-broth to the veal, and to boil it briskly until well
reduced, thrusting a knife when this is done into the meat, to let the juices escape;
then to proceed more slowly and cautiously as the liquid approaches the state in
which it would burn. It must be allowed to take a dark amber-colour only, and
the meat must be turned, and often moved in it. When the desired point is
reached, pour in more boiling broth, and let the pan remain off the fire for a few
minutes, to detach and melt the glaze; then shake it well round before the boil-
ing is continued. A certain quantity of deeply coloured glaze, made apart, and
stirred into strong, clear, pale stock, would produce the desired effect of this,
with much less trouble.


12
[CHAP. I
MODERN COOKERY.
soup will be perfectly transparent and of good colour and flavour. A
thick slice of lean ham will improve it, and a pound or so of the neck
of beef with an additional pint of water, will likewise enrich its quality.
A small quantity of good broth may be made of the fragments of the
whole boiled down with a few fresh vegetables.
Brown caper, or hot horse-radish sauce, or sauce Robert, or sauce
piquante, made with the liquor in which it is boiled, may be served
with the portion of the meat which is sent to table.
VERMICELLI SOUP.
(Potage au Vermicelle.)
Drop very lightly, and by degrees, six ounces of vermicelli, broken
rather small, into three quarts of boiling bouillon, or clear gravy soup;
let it simmer for half an hour* over a gentle fire, and stir it often. This
is the common French mode of making vermicelli soup, and we can
recommend it as a particularly good one for family use. In England
it is customary to soak, or to blanch the vermicelli, then to drain it
well, and to stew it for a shorter time in the soup; the quantity also,
must be reduced quite two ounces, to suit modern taste.
Bouillon, or gravy soup, 3 quarts; vermicelli, 6 oz. ; 30 minutes.
Or, soup, 3 quarts; vermicelli, oz.; blanched in boiling water á
minutes; stewed in soup 10 to 15 minutes.
SEMOULINA SOUP.
(Soupe à la Sémoule.)
Semoulina is used in the same way as the vermicelli. It should be
dropped very lightly and by degrees into the boiling soup, which
should be stirred all the time it is being added, and very frequently
afterwards ; indeed, it should scarcely be quitted until it is ready
for table. Skim it carefully, and let it simmer from twenty to five-
and-twenty minutes. This, when the semoulina is good and fresh,
is, to our taste, an excellent soup.
Soup, 3 quarts; semoulina, 6 oz.; nearly, or quite 25 minutes.
* When of very fine quality, the vermicelli will usually require less boiling
than this. We have named to the reader, in another part of the volume, Mr.
Cobbett, 18, Pall Mall, as supplying all the Italian pastes extremely good. There
are, of course, many other houses in London where they may be procured equally
so; but in naming Mr. Cobbett, who is personally unknown to us, we merely
give the result of our own experience of many years.
Some articles of very
superior quality purchased for us at his warehouse by a person merely commis-
sioned to procure the best that could be had " from Town,” first directed our
attention to his house (a long established one, we believe), which is justly noted,
especially amongst affluent country families, for the excellence of the goods
which it sends out. We give this explanation, because it seems invidious to
select from the large number of deservedly celebrated establishments of the same
class which are to be found here, any one in particular for mention in a work of
this nature.


CHAP. I.]
13
SOUPS.
ar more.
MACARONI SOUP.
Throw four ounces of fine fresh* mellow Naples maccaroni into a
pan of fast-boiling water, with about an ounce of fresh butter, and a
small onion stuck with three or four cloves.f When it has swelled
to its full size, and become tender, drain it well, cut it into half-inch
lengths, and slip it into a couple of quarts of clear gravy-soup: let
it simmer for a few minutes, when it will be ready for table. Ob-
serve, that the macaroni should be boiled quite tender; but it
should by no means be allowed to burst, nor to become pulpy.
Serve grated Parmesan cheese with it.
Macaroni, 4 oz.; butter, 1 oz.; 1 small onion ; 5 cloves; { hour,
In soup, 5 to 10 minutes.
Obs.—The macaroni for soups should always be either broken
into short lengths before it is boiled, or cut as above, or sliced
quickly into small rings not more than the sixth of an inch thick
after it is boiled, unless the cut or ring macaroni, which may be
purchased at the Italian warehouses, be used ; this requires but ten
minutes' boiling, and should be dropped into the soup in the same
way as vermicelli. I Four ounces of it will be sufficient for two
quarts of stock. It may be added to white soup after having been
previously boiled in water or veal-broth, and well drained from it :
it has a rather elegant appearance in clear gravy-soup, but should
have a boil in water before it is thrown into it.
If served in very clear bright stock (consommé), it should be boiled
apart until tender in a little good broth, which ought also to be clear
and entirely free from fat; then well drained, and put into the soup
for a minute, or into the tureen, the instant before the soup is
dished.
SOUP OF SOUJEE.
The soujee is of Indian origin, but is now well manufactured in
England, ş and is, we think, somewhat more delicate than semoulina
in favour; and being made from wheat of the finest quality, is also
quite as nutritious, or more so. For each quart of soup allow two
ounces of soujee (the proportions can always be otherwise adapted
to the taste after the first trial); drop it gradually into the boiling
liquid, and simmer it for ten or twelve minutes. "Bullock's semola
is another preparation which may be used in exactly the same
manner to thicken soup; but both this and soujee are more expen-
sive at present than semoulina.
• We must here repeat our warning against the use of long-kept macaroni,
vermicelli, or semoulina; as when stale they will render any dish into which
they are introduced quite unfit for table.
# For white soups omit the onion.
For the different varieties of macaroni and vermicelli, and the time required
to boil each of them, see Chapter XXI.
By Messrs. Stephens and Co., 2 White's Row, Bishopsgate.


14
[CHAP. I.
MODERN COOKERY.
POTAGE AUX NOUILLES, OR TAILLERINE SOUP
Make into nouille-paste, with very fine dry flour, the yolks of
four fresh eggs, and when ready cut, drop it gradually into five pints
of boiling soup; keep this gently stirred for ten minutes, skim it
well, and serve it quickly. This is a less common, and a more deli-
cately flavoured soup than the vermicelli, provided always that the
nouilles be made with really fresh eggs. The same paste may be
cut into very small diamonds, squares, stars, or any other form, then
left to dry a little, and boiled in the soup until swollen to its full
size, and tender.
Nouille-paste of four eggs; soup, 5 pints: 10 minutes.
SAGO SOUP.
Wash in several waters, and float off the dirt from six ounces of
fine pearl sago; put it into three quarts of good cold gravy-stock;
let it stew gently from half to three quarters of an hour, and stir it
occasionally, that it may not burn nor stick to the stewpan. A
quarter of an ounce more of sago to each pint of liquid, will thicken
it to the consistence of peas-soup. It may be flavoured with half a
wineglassful of Harvey's sauce, as much cayenne as it may need, the
juice of half a lemon, an ounce of sugar, and two glasses of sherry;
or these may be omitted, and good beef-broth may be substituted
for the gravy-soup, for a simple family dinner, or for an invalid; or,
again, it may be converted into inexpensive white soup by the addi-
tion of some cream smoothly mixed with a dessertspoonful of arrow-
root, or of thick cream and new milk in equal portions. Veal broth
would be the most appropriate for this, or it might be made with
half veal and half mutton.
Sago, 6 oz.; soup, 3 quarts : 30 to 45 minutes.
TAPIOCA SOUP.
This is made in the same manner, and with the same proportions
as the preceding soup, but it must be simmered from fifty to sixty
minutes.
RICE SOUP.
In France, this soup is served well thickened with the rice, which
is stewed in it for upwards of an hour and a half, and makes thus,
even with the common bouillon of the country, an excellent winter
potage. Wipe in a dry cloth, eight ounces of the best rice; add it,
in small portions, to four quarts of hot soup, of which the boiling
should not be checked as it is thrown in. When a clear soup is
wanted wash the rice, give it five minutes' boil in water, drain it
well, throw it into as much boiling stock or well-flavoured broth as
will keep it covered till done, and simmer it very softly until the
grains are tender but still separate; draiv it, drop it into the soup,
and let it remain in it a few minutes before it is served, but without


CHAP. I.]
15
SOUPS.
simmering. When stewed in the stock it may be put at once, after
being drained, into the tureen, and the clear consommé may be poured
to it.
An easy English mode of making rice-soup is this: put the rice
into plenty of cold water ; when it boils throw in a small quantity of
salt, let it simmer for ten minutes, drain it well, throw it into the
boiling soup, and simmer it gently from ten to fifteen minutes
longer.* An extra quantity of stock must be allowed for the reduc-
tion of this soup which is always considerable.
WHITE RICE SOUP.
Throw four ounces of well-washed rice into boiling water, and in
five minutes after pour it into a sieve, drain it well, and put it into a
couple of quarts of good white boiling stock; let it stew until tender;
season the soup with salt, cayenne, and pounded mace; stir to it
three quarters of a pint of very rich cream, give it one boil, and
serve it quickly.
Rice, 4 oz. : boiled 5 minutes Soup, 2 quarts: hour or more.
Seasoning of salt, mace, and cayenne; cream, i pint : 1 minute.
RICE-FLOUR SOUP.
Mix to a smooth batter, with a little cold broth, eight ounces of
fine rice-flour, and pour it into a couple of quarts of fast-boiling
broth or gravy soup.
Add to it a seasoning of mace and cayenne,
with a little salt if needful. It will require but ten minutes' boiling.
Soup, 2 quarts; rice-flour, 8 oz. : 10 minutes.
Obs.-Two dessertspoonsful of currie-powder, and the strained
juice of half a moderate-sized lemon will greatly improve this soup:
it may also be converted into a good common white soup (if it be
made of veal stock), by the addition of three quarters of a pint of
thick cream to the rice.
STOCK FOR WHITE SOUP.
Though a knuckle of veal is usually preferred for this stock, part
of the neck will answer for it very well." Whichever joint be chosen,
let it be thoroughly washed, once or twice divided, and laid into a
delicately clean soup-pot, or well-tinned large stout iron saucepan,
upon a pound of lean ham, freed entirely from skin and fat, and cut
into thick slices; or, instead of this, on half a pound of the Jewish
smoked beef, of which we have already spoken, and from which the
smoked surface, and all fat, must be carefully carved away.
Dutch or hung beef also will answer the same purpose, but similar
precautions must be observed with regard to the smoked portions of
either ; as they would impart a very unpleasant flavour to any pre-
paration. Should very rich soup be wished for, pour in a pint only
of cold water for each pound of meat, but otherwise a pint and a half
• The Patna requires much less boiling than the Carolina.


16
(CHAI. I
MODERN COOKERY
may be allowed.
When the soup has been thoroughly cleared from
scum, which should be carefully taken off from the time of its first
beginning to boil, throw in an ounce of salt to the gallon (more can
be added afterwards if needed), two mild onions, a moderate-sized
head of celery, two carrots, a small teaspoonful of whole white
pepper, and two blades of mace; and let the soup stew very softly
from five to six hours, if the quantity be large : it should simmer
until the meat falls from the bones. The skin of a calf's beau, a
calf's foot, or an old fowl may always be added to this stock with
good effect. Strain it into a clean deep pan, and keep it in a coa
place till wanted for use.
Lean ham, 1 lb.; veal, 7 lbs; water, 4 to 6 quarts; salt, 1 oz
(more if needed); onions, 2; celery, 1 head; carrots, 2; peppero
corns, 1 teaspoonful; mace, 2 blades : 5 to 6 hours.
MUTTON-STOCK FOR SOUPS.
Equal parts of beef and mutton, with the addition of a small por-
tion of ham, or dried beef, make excellent stock, especially for winter-
soups. The necks of fowls, the bones of an undressed calf's head, or
of any uncooked joint, may be added to it with advantage. According
to the quality of soup desired, pour from a pint to a pint and a ball
of cold water to each pound of meat; and after the liquor has been
well skimmed, on its beginning to boil, throw in an ounce and a half
of salt to the gallon, two small heads of celery, three mild middling.
sized onions, three well-flavoured turnips, as many carrots, a faggot
of thyme and parsley, half a teaspoonful of white peppercorns, twelve
cloves, and a large blade of mace. Draw the soup-pot to the side of
the fire, and boil the stock as gently as possible for about six hours;
then strain, and set it by for use. Be particularly careful to clear it
entirely from fat before it is prepared for table. One third of beef
or veal, with two of mutton, will make very good soup; or mutton
only will answer the purpose quite well upon occasion.
Beef, 4 lbs.; mutton, 4 lbs. (or, beet or veal from 2 to 3 lbs.;
mutton from 5 to 6 lbs.); water, 1 to 11 gallon; salt, 14 oz.; mild
turnips, 1 lb.; onions, 6 oz.; carrots, lb. ; celery, 6 to 8 oz. ; 1
bunch of herbs ; peppercorns, 1 teaspoonful; cloves, 12; mace, 1 large
blade: 6 hours.
Oos.-Salt should be used sparingly at first for stock in which
any portion of ham is boiled ; allowance should also be made for its
reduction, in case of its being required for gravy.
MADEMOISELLE JENNY LIND'S SOUP.
(Authentic Receipt.)
This receipt does not merely bear the name of “Mademoiselle
Lind,” but is in reality that of the soup which was constantly served
to her, as it was prepared by her own cook. We are indebted for it


CHAP. 1.]
17
SOUPS.
to the kindness of the very popular Swedish authoress, Miss Bremer,
who received it direct from her accomplished countrywoman.*
The following proportions are for a tureen of this excellent
potage:--
Wash a quarter of a pound of the best pearl sago until the water
poured from it is clear; then stew it quite tender and very thick in
water or thick broth (it will require nearly or quite a quart of liquid,
which should be poured to it cold, and heated slowly): then mix
gradually with it a pint of good boiling cream, and the yolks of four
fresh eggs, and mingle the whole carefully with two quarts of strong
veal or beef stock, which should always be kept ready boiling. Send
the soup immediately to table.
THE LORD MAYOR'S SOUP.
Wash thoroughly two sets of moderate sized pigs' cars and feet from
which the hair has been carefully removed; add to them five quarts
of cold water, and stew them very gently with a faggot of savoury
herbs, and one large onion stuck with a dozen cloves, for nearly four
hours, when the ears may be lifted out; stew the feet for another
hour, then take them up, strain the soup, and set it in a cool place
that it may become cold enough for the fat to be quite cleared from
it. Next, bone the ears and feet, cut the flesh down into dice, throw
a clean folded cloth over it, and leave it so until the soup requires to
be prepared for table; then strew upon it two tablespoonsful of sa-
voury herbs minced small, half a saltspoonful of cayenne, a little
white pepper, and some salt. Put into a large saucepan half a pound
of good butter, and when it begins to simmer thicken it gradually
with as much flour as it will absorb; keep these stirred over a very
gentle fire for ten minutes or more, but do not allow them to take
the slightest colour; pour the soup to them by degrees, letting it boil
up after each portion is added ; put in the meat, and half a pint of
sherry; simmer the whole from three to five minutes ; dish the soup,
and slip into it two or three dozens of delicately fried forcemeat-
balls. (See Chapter VIII.)
Pigs' feet, 8; ears, 4; water, 5 quarts; bunch savoury herbs ; 1
large onion; cloves, 12 : 3to 4 hours, feet, 1 hour more. Butter,
16.; flour, 6 oz.f: 10 to 12 minutes. Minced herbs, 2 tablespoons-
ful; cayenne and common pepper, each į saltspoonful; salt, į tea-
spoonful or more; sherry, á pint: 3 to 5 minutes. Forcemeat-balls,
2 to 3 dozens.
Obs.- We have given this receipt with the slightest possible varia
tion from the original, which we derived from a neighbourhood where
* We were informed by Miss Bremer that Mademoiselle Lind was in the
habit of taking this soup before she sang, as she found the sago and eggs sooth.
ing to the chest, and beneficial to the voice.
+ The safer plan for an inexperienced cook is to weigh the flour, and then to
sprinkle it from a dredging-box into the butter.
C


18
[CHAP. L.
MODERN COOKERY
the soup made by it was extremely popular. We have better adapted
it to our own taste by the following alterations.
TIE LORD MAYOR's soup.
(Author's Receipt.)
We prefer to have this soup made, in part, the evening before it is
wanted. Add the same proportion of water to the ears and feet as in
the preceding directions ; skim it thoroughly when it first boils, and
throw in a tablespoonful of salt, two onions of moderate size, a sma]
head of celery, a bunch of herbs, two whole carrots, a small teaspoon.
ful of white peppercorns, and a blade of mace. Stew these softly un.
til the cars and feet are perfectly tender, and, after they are lifted out.
let the liquor be kept just simmering only, while they are being boned,
that it may not be too much reduced. Put the bones back into it
,
and stew them as gently as possible for an hour; then strain the soup
into a clean pan, and set it by until the morrow in a cool place. The
flesh should be cut into dice while it is still warm, and covered with
the cloth before it becomes quite cold. To prepare the soup for table
clear the stock from fat and sediment, put it into a very clean stew-
pan, or deep saucepan, and stir to it when it boils, six ounces of the
finest rice flour smoothly mixed with a quarter of a teaspoonful of
cayenne, three times as much of mace and salt, the strained juice of a
lemon, three tablespoonsful of Harvey's sauce, and half a pint of good
sherry or Madeira. Simmer the whole for six or eight minutes, add
more salt if needed, stir the soup often, and skim it thoroughly; put
in the meat and herbs, and after they have boiled gently for five
minutes, dish the soup, add forcemeat-balls or not, at pleasure, and
send it to table quickly.
Moderate-sized pigs' feet, 8; cars, 4; water, 5 quarts ; salt, 1 table-
spoonful; onions, 2; celery, 1 head ; carrots, 2; bunch of herbs;
peppercorns, 1 small teaspoonful; mace, 1 blade : 3) to 4 hours.
Stock, 5 pints; rice-flour, 6 oz. ; cayenne, teaspoonful; mace and
salt, each of a teaspoonful; juice of 1 lemon ; Harvey's sauce, 3
tablespoonsful; sherry or Madeira, į pint: 6 to 8 minutes. Savoury
herbs, 2 tablespoonsful: 5 minutes.
Obs. 1.- Should the quantity of stock exceed five pints, an ad-
ditional ounce or more of rice must be used, and the flatouring be al-
together increased in proportion. Of the minced herbs, two-thirds
should be parsley, and the remainder equal parts of lemon thyme and
winter savoury, unless sweet basil should be at hand, when a tea-
spoonful of it may be substituted for half of the parsley. To some
tastes a seasoning of sage would be acceptable; and a slice or two of
lean ham will much improve the flavour of the soup.
Obs. 2.—Both this soup, and the preceding one, may be rendered
very rich by substituting strong bouillon (see page 8) or good veal
broth for water, in making them.


CHAP. I. ]
19
SOUPS.
COCOA-NUT SOUP.
Pare the dark rind from a very fresh cocoa-nut, and grate it down
small on an exceedingly clean, bright grater ; weigh it, and allow
two ounces for each quart of soup. Simmer it gently for one hour
in the stock, which should then be strained closely from it, and thick-
ened for table.
Veal stock, gravy-soup, or broth, 5 pints; grated cocoa-nut, 5 oz..
1 hour. Flour of rice, 5 oz. ; mace, 1 teaspoonful; little cayenne and
salt; mixed with | pint of cream: 10 minutes.
Or: gravy-soup, or good beef broth, 5 pints: 1 hour. Rice flour,
5 oz.; soy and lemon-juice, each 1 tablespoonful; finely pounded sugar,
1 oz.; cayenne, 1 teaspoonful; sherry, 2 glassesful.
Obs.-When either cream or wine is objected to for these soups,
a half-pint of the stock should be reserved to mix the thickening
with.
CHESTNUT SOUP.
Strip the outer rind from some fine, sound Spanish chestnuts,
throw them into a large pan of warm water, and as soon as it becomes
too hot for the fingers to remain in it, take it from the fire, lift out
the chestnuts, peel them quickiy, and throw them into cold water
as they are done ; wipe, and weigh them; take three quarters of a
pound for each quart of soup, cover them with good stock, and stew
them gently for upwards of three quarters of an hour, or until they
break when touched with a fork; drain, and pound them smoothly,
or bruise them to a mash with a strong spoon, and rub them through
a fine sieve reversed ; mix with them by slow degrees the proper
quantity of stock; add sufficient mace, cayenne, and salt to season the
soup, and stir it often until it boils. Three quarters of a pint of rich
cream, or even less, will greatly improve it. The stock in which the
chestnuts are boiled can be used for the soup when its sweetness is
not objected to; or it may in part be added to it.
Chestnuts, 1 lb.: stewed from 1 to 1 hour. Soup, 2 quarts ; sea-
soning of salt, mace, and cayenne : 1 to 3 minutes. Cream, i pint
(when used).
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE, OR PALESTINE SOUP.
Wash and pare quickly some freshly-dug artichokes, and to preserve
their colour, throw them into spring water as they are done, but do
not let them remain in it after all are ready. Boil three pounds of
them in water for ten minutes; lift them out, and slice them into
three pints of boiling stock; when they have stewed gently in this
from fifteen to twenty minutes, press them with the soup, through a
fine sieve, and put the whole into a clean saucepan with a pint and a
half more of stock; add sufficient salt and cayenne to season it, skim
it well, and after it has simmered for two or three minutes, stir it to a
pint of rich boiling cream. Serve it immediately.


20
[CHAP. I.
MODERN COOKERY.
Artichokes, 3 lbs., boiled in water: 10 minutes. Veal stock, 3 pints:
15 to 20 minutes. Additional stock, 14 pint; little cayenne and salt;
2 to 3 minutes. Boiling cream, 1 pint.
Obs. The palest veal stock, as for white soup, should be used for
this; but for a family dinner, or where economy is a consideration,
excellent mutton-broth, made the day before and perfectly cleared
from fat, will answer very well as a substitute ; milk too may in part
take the place of cream when this last is scarce: the proportion of ar.
tichokes should then be increased a little.
Vegetable-marrow, when young, makes a superior soup even to
this, which is an excellent one. It should be well pared, trimmed,
and sliced into a small quantity of boiling veal stock or broth, and
when perfectly tender, pressed through a fine sieve, and mixed with
more stock and some cream. In France the marrow is stewed, first in
butter, with a large mild onion or two also sliced ; and afterwards in
a quart or more of water, which is poured gradually to it; it is next
passed through a tammy,* seasoned with pepper and salt, and mixed
with a pint or two of milk and a little cream.
COMMON CARROT SOUP.
The most easy method of making this favourite English soup is to
boil some highly coloured carrots quite tender in water slightly salted,
then to pound or mash them to a smooth paste, and to mix with them
boiling gravy soup or strong beef broth (see Bouillon) in the pro-
portion of two quarts to a pound and a half of the prepared carrots;
then to pass the whole through a strainer, to season it with salt and
cayenne, to heat it in a clean stewpan, and to serve it immediately.
If only the red outsides of the carrots be used, the colour of the soup
will be very bright, they should be weighed after they are mashed
Turnip soup may be prepared in the same manner.
Ovs.-An experienced and observant cook will know the proportion
of vegetables required to thicken this soup appropriately, without
having recourse to weights and measures ; but the learner had always
better proceed by rule.
Soup, 2 quarts; pounded carrot, 1} lb.; salt, cayenne : 5 minutes.
A FIXER CARROT SOUP.
Scrape very clean, and cut away all blemishes from some highly-
flavoured red carrots; wash, and wipe them dry, and cut them into
quarter-inch slices. Put into a large stewpan three ounces of the
best butter, and when it is melted, add two pounds of the sliced
carrots, and let them stew gently for an hour without browning;
pour to them then four pints and a half of brown gravy soup, and
when they have simmered from fifty minutes to an hour, they ought
to be sufficiently tender. Press them through a sieve or strainer with
the soup; add salt, and cayenne if required; boil the whole gently
• Derived from the French lamis, which means & sieve or strainer,


CHAP. I.]
21
SOUPS.
for five minutes, take off all the scum, and serve the soup as hot as
possible.
Butter, 3 oz.; carrots, 2 lbs.: 1 hour. Soup, 41 pints: 50 to 60
minutes. Salt, cayenne : 5 minutes.
COMMON TURNIP SOUP.
Wash and wipe the turnips, pare and weigh them; allow a pound
and a half for every quart of soup. Cut them in slices about a
quarter of an inch thick. Melt four ounees of butter in a clean stew-
pan, and put in the turnips before it begins to boil ; stew them gently
for three quarters of an hour, taking care that they shall not brown,
then have the proper quantity of soup ready boiling, pour it to them,
and let them simmer in it for three quarters of an hour. Pulp the
whole through a coarse sieve or soup strainer, put it again on the fire,
keep it stirred until it has boiled three minutes or four, take off the
scum, add salt and pepper if required, and serve it
Turnips, 3 lbs.; butter, 4 oz.: 4 hour. Soup, 2 quarts. I hour.
Last time : three minutes.
very hot.
A QUICKLY MADE TURNIP SOUP.
Pare and slice into three pints of veal or mutton stock or of good
broth, three pounds of young mild turnips ; stew them gently from
twenty-five to thirty minutes, or until they can be reduced quite to
pulp; rub the whole through a sieve, and add to it another quart
of stock, a seasoning of salt and white pepper, and one lump of sugar;
give it two or three minutes' boil, skim and serve it. A large white
onion when the flavour is liked may be sliced and stewed with the
turnips. A little cream improves much the colour of this soup.
Turnips, 3 lbs.; soup, 5 pints: 25 to 30 minutes.
POTATO SOUP.
Mash to a smooth paste three pounds of good mealy potatoes, which
have been steamed, or boiled very dry ; mix with them by degrees,
two quarts of boiling broth, pass the soup through a strainer, set it
again on the fire, add pepper and salt, and let it boil for five minutes.
Take off entirely the black scum that will rise upon it, and serve it
very hot with fried or toasted bread. Where the flavour is approved,
two ounces of onions minced and fried a light brown, may be added to
the soup, and stewed in it for ten minutes before it is sent to table.
Potatoes, 3 lbs. ; broth, 2 quarts: 5 minutes. (With onions, 2 oz.:)
10 minutes.
APPLE SOUP.
(Soupe à la Bourguignon.)
Clear the fat from five pints of good mutton broth, bouillon, or shin
of beef stock, and strain it through a fine sieve; add to it when it
boils, a pound and a half of good cooking apples, and stew them


22
MODERN COOKEKY.
(CEAP. 2
down iu it very softly to a smooth pulp; press the whole through a
strainer, add a small teaspoonful of powdered ginger and plenty of
pepper, simmer the soup for a couple of minutes, skim, and serve it
very hot, accompanied by a dish of rice, boiled as for curries.
Broth, 5 pints; apples, 11 lb.: 25 to 40 minutes. Ginger, 1 tca.
spoonfulį pepper, 1 teaspoonful: 2 minutes.
PARSNEP SOUP.
Dissolve, over a gentle fire, four ounces of good butter, in a wide
stewpan or saucepan, and slice in directly two pounds of sweet tender
parsneps; let them stew very gently until all are quite soft, then
pour in gradually sufficient veal stock or good broth to cover them,
and boil the whole slowly from twenty minutes to half an hour;
work it with a wooden spoon through a fine sieve, add as
much stock as will make two quarts in all, season the soup with
salt and white pepper or cayenne, give it one boil, skim, and
serve it very hot. Send pale fried sippets to table with it.
Butter, 4} oz. ; parsneps, 2 lbs. : 4 hour, or more. Stock, 1 quart;
20 to 30 minutes; 1 full quart more of stock; pepper, salt: 1
minute.
Obs.- We can particularly recommend this soup to those who
like the peculiar flavour of the vegetable.
ANOTHER PARSNEP SOUP.
Slice into five pints of boiling veal stock or strong colourless
broth, a couple of pounds of parsneps, and stew them as gently as
possible from thirty minutes to an hour; when they are perfectly
tender, press them through a sieve, strain the soup to them, season,
boil, and serve it very hot. With the addition of cream, parsnep
soup made by this receipt resembles in appearance the Palestine
soup
Veal stock or broth, 5 pints; parsneps, 2 lbs. : 30 to 60 minutes
Salt and cayenne : 2 minutes.
WESTERFIELD WHITE SOUP.
Break the bone of a knuckle of veal in one or two places, and put
it on to stew, with three quarts of cold water to the five pounds of
meat; when it has been quite cleared from scum, add to it an ounce
and a half of salt, and one mild onion, twenty corns of white pepper,
and two or three blades of mace, with a little cayenne pepper. When
the soup is reduced one-third by slow simmering strain it off, and
set it by till cold; then free it carefully from the fat and sediment,
and heat it again in a very clean stewpan. Mix with it when it
boils, a pint of thick cream smoothly blended with an ounce of goop
arrowroot, two ounces of very fresh vermicelli previously boiled
tender in water slightly salted and well drained from it, and an ounce
and a half of almonds blanched and cut in strips : give it one minute's


CRAP. I.]
23
SOUPS.
simmer, and serve it immediately, with a French roll in the
tureen.
Veal, 5 lbs.; water, 3 quarts; salt, 11 oz. ; 1 mild onion; 20
corns white pepper; 2 large blades of mace: 5 hours or more.
Cream, 1 pint; almonds, 11 oz.; vermicelli, 1 oz.: 1 minute. Little
thickening if needed.
Obs.-We have given this receipt without any variation from the
original, as the soup made by it—of which we have often partaken
seemed always much approved by the guests of the hospitable
country gentleman from whose family it was derived, and at whose
well-arranged table it was very commonly served; but we would
suggest the suppression of the almond spikes, as they seem un-
suited to the preparation, and also to the taste of the present day.
A RICHER WHITE SOUP.
Pound very fine indeed six ounces of sweet almonds, then add to
them six ounces of the breasts of roasted chickens or partridges, and
three ounces of the whitest bread which has been soaked in a little
veal broth, and squeezed very dry in a cloth. Beat these altogether
to an extremely smooth paste; then pour to them boiling and by
degrees, two quarts of rich veal stock; strain the soup through a
fine hair sieve, set it again over the fire, add to it a pint of thick
cream, and serve it, as soon as it is at the point of boiling. When
cream is very scarce, or not easily to be procured, this soup may be
thickened sufficiently without it, by increasing the quantity of
almonds to eight or ten ounces, and pouring to them, after they have
been reduced to the finest paste, a pint of boiling stock, which must
be again wrung from them through a coarse cloth with very strong
pressure: the proportion of meat and bread also should then be
nearly doubled. The stock should be well seasoned with mace and
cayenne before it is added to the other ingredients.
Almonds, 6 oz. ; breasts of chickens or partridges, 6 oz.; soaked
bread, 3 oz.; veal stock, 2 quarts; cream, 1 pint.
Obs. 1.-Some persons pound the yolks of four or five hard-boiled
eggs with the almonds, meat, and bread for this white soup; French
cooks beat smoothly with them an ounce or two of whole rice, pre-
viously boiled from fifteen to twenty minutes.
Obs. 2.-A good plain white soup may be made simply by adding to
a couple of quarts of pale veal stock or strong well-flavoured veal
broth, a thickening of arrow-root, and from half to three quarters
of a pint of cream. Four ounces of macaroni boiled tender and
well-drained may be dropped into it a minute or two before it is
dished, but the thickening may then be diminished a little
MOCK TURTLE SOUP.
To make a single tureen of this favourite English soup in the most
economical manner when there is no stock at hand, stew gently down
in a gallon of water four pounds of the fleshy part of the shin of


24
[CHAP. I.
MODERN COOKERY.
beef, or of the neck, with two or three carrots, one onion, a small
head of celery, a bunch of savoury herbs, a blade of mace, a half-
teaspoonful of peppercorns, and an ounce of salt. When the meat
is quite in fragments, strain off the broth, and pour it when cold
upon three pounds of the knuckle or of the neck of veal ; simmer this
until the flesh has quite fallen from the bones, but be careful to stew
it as softly as possible, or the quantity of stock will be so much
reduced as to be insufficient for the soup. Next, take the half of a
fine calf's head with the skin on, remove the brains, and then bone
it* entirely, or let the butcher do this, and return the bones with it:
these, when there is time, may be stewed with the veal to enrich
the stock, or boiled afterwards with the head and tongue. Strais
the soup through a hair-sieve into a clean pan, and let it drain
closely from the meat. When it is nearly or quite cold, clear off all
the fat from it; roll the head lightly round, leaving the tongue
inside, or taking it out, as is most convenient, secure it with tape
or twine, pour the soup, over, and bring it gently to boil upon
a moderate fire; keep it well skimmed, and simmer it from an
hour to an hour and a quarter ; then lift the head into a deep
pan or tureen, add the soup to it, and let it remain in unti
nearly cold, as this will prevent the edges from becoming dark. Cut
into quarter-inch slices, and then divide into dice, from six to eight
ounces of the lean of an undressed ham, and if possible, one of
good flavour; free it perfectly from fat, rind, and the smoked edges;
peel and slice four moderate-sized eschalots, or if these should not be
at hand, one mild onion in lieu of them. Dissolve in a well-tinned
stewpan or thick iron saucepan which holds a gallon or more, four
ounces of butter; put in the ham and eschalots, or onion, with half a
dozen cloves, two middling-sized blades of mace, a half-teaspoonful of
peppercorns, three or four very small sprigs of thyme, three tes-
spoonsful of minced parsley, one of lemon thyme and winter savoury
mixed, and when the flavour is thought appropriate, the very thin
rind of half a small fresh lemon. Stew these as softly as possible
for nearly or quite an hour, and keep the pan frequently shaken :
then put into a dredging box two ounces of fine dry flour, and
sprinkle it to them by degrees ; mix the whole well together, and
after a few minutes more of gentle simmering, add very gradually
five full pints of the stock taken free of fat and sediment, and made
boiling before it is poured in ; shake the pan strongly round as the
first portions of it are added, and continue to do so until it contains
from two to three pints, when the remainder may be poured in at
once, and the pan placed by the side of the fire that it may boil in
the gentlest manner for an hour. At the end of that time turn the
• This is so simple and easy a process, that the cook may readily accomplish it
with very little attention. Let her only work the knife close to the bone always,
so as to take the flesh clean from it, instead of leaving large fragments on. The
jaw-bone may first be removed, and the flesh turned tack from the edge of the
other.


CHAP. 1.]
25
SOUPS.
whole into a hair-sieve placed over a large pan, and if the liquid
should not run through freely, knock the sides of the sieve, but do
not force it through with a spoon, as that would spoil the appearance
of the stock. The head in the meanwhile should have been cut up,
ready to add to it. For the finest kind of mock turtle, only the
skin, with the fat that adheres to it, should be used ; and this, with
the tongue, should be cut down into one inch squares, or if preferred
into strips of an inch wide. For ordinary occasions, the lean part of
the flesh may be added also, but as it is always sooner done than the
skin, it is better to add it to the soup a little later. When it is quite
ready, put it with the strained stock into a clean pan, and simmer it
from three quarters of an hour to a full hour: it should we perfectly
tender, without being allowed to break. Cayenne, if needed, should
be thrown into the stock before it is strained; salt should be used
sparingly, on account of the ham, until the whole of the other ingre-
dients have been mixed together, when a sufficient quantity must be
stirred into the soup to season it properly. A couple of glasses of
good sherry or Madeira, with a dessertspoonful of strained lemon-
juice, are usually added two or three minutes only before the soup
is dished, that the spirit and flavour of the wine may not have time
to evaporate; but it is sometimes preferred mellowed down by longer
boiling. The proportion of lemon-juice may be doubled at will, but
much acid is not generally liked. We can assure the reader of the
excellence of the soup made by this receipt; it is equally palatable
and delicate, and not heavy or cloying to the stomach, like many of
the elaborate compositions which bear its name. The fat, through
the whole process, should be carefully skimmed off
. The ham gives
far more savour, when used as we have directed, than when, even in
much larger proportion, it is boiled down in the stock. Two dozens
of forcemeat-balls, prepared by the receipt No.11, Chap. VIII., should
be dropped into the soup when it is ready for table. It is no longer
customary to serve egg-balls in it.
First broth :-shin, or neck of beef, 4 lbs.; water, 4 quarts; carrots,
2 or 3; large mild onion, 1; celery, small head ; bunch savoury
herbs ; mace, 1 large blade ; peppercorns, 1 teaspoonful ; cloves, 6;
salt, 1 oz. : 5 hours or more, very gently. For stock: the broth and
3 lbs. neck or knuckle of veal (bones of head if ready): 4 to 5 hours.
Boned half-head with skin on and tongue, 1 to 11 hour. Lean of un-
dressed ham, 6 to 8 oz. (6 if very salt) ; shalots, 4, or onion, 1 ; fresh
butter, 4 oz.; cloves, 6; middling-sized blades of mace, 2; pepper-
corns, 1 teaspoonful ; small sprigs of thyme, 3 or 4; minced parsley,
3 large teaspoonsful; minced savoury and lemon-thyme mixed, i
small teaspoonful (thin rind small lemon, when liked): 1 hour.
Flour, 2 oz. : 5 minutes. Stock, full five pints; flesh of head and
tongue, 14 to 2 lbs.: of an hour to 1 hour (salt, if needed, to be
added in interim). Good sherry or Madeira, 2 wineglassesful; lemon-
juice, 1 to 2 dessertspoonsful ; forcemeat-balls, 24.
Obs. 1.—The beef, veal, bones of the head, and vegetables may be


26
[CHAF.
MODERN COOKERY.
stewed down together when more convenient: it is only necessary
that a really good, well flavoured, and rather deeply-coloured stock
should be prepared. A calf's foot is always an advantageous addiája
to it, and the skin of another call's head* a better one still.
Obs. 2.-A couple of dozens mushroom-buttons, cleaned with salt
and flannel, then wiped very dry, and sliced, and added to the ham
and herbs when they have been simmered together about half an
hour, will be found an improvement to the soup.
Claret is sometimes added instead of sherry or Madeira, but we do
not think it would in general suit English taste so well. From two
to three tablespoonsful of Harvey's sauce can be stirred in with the
wine when it is liked, or when the colour requires deepening.
OLD-FASHIONED MOCK TURTLE.
After having taken out the brain and washer and soaked the head
well, pour to it nine quarts of cold water, bring it gently to boil, skim
it very clean, boil it if large an hour and a half, lift it out, and put
into the liquor eight pounds of neck of beef lightly browned in a little
fresh butter, with three or four thick slices of lean ham, four large
onions sliced, three heads of celery, three large carrots, a large bunch
of savoury herbs, the rind of a lemon pared very thin, a dessertspoon.
ful of peppercorns, two ounces of salt, and after the meat has been
taken from the head, all the bones and fragments. Stew these gently
from six to seven hours, then strain off the stock and set it into a very
cool place, that the fat may become firm enough on the top to be cleared
off easily. The skin and fat of the head should be taken off together
and divided into strips of two or three inches in length, and one in
width ; the tongue may be carved in the same manner, or into dice.
Put the stock, of which there ought to be between four and five
quarts, into a large soup or stewpot ; thicken it when it boils with
four ounces of fresh buttert mixed with an equal weight of fine dry
flour, a half-teaspoonful of pounded mace, and a third as much of
cayenne (it is better to use these sparingly at first, and to add more
should the soup require it, after it has boiled some little time); pour
in half a pint of sherry, stir the whole together until it has simmered
for a minute or two, then put in the head, and let it stew gently from
an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half: stir it often, and clear
* Country butchers, in preparing a calfs head for sale in the ordinary way, take
off the skin (or scalp), considered so essential to the excellence of this soup, and
frequently throw it away; it may, therefore, often be procured from them at
very slight cost, and is the best possible addition to the mock turtle. It is
cleared from the head in detached portions with the hair on, but this may easily
be removed after a few minutes' scalding as from the head itself, or the feet, by
the direction given in Chapter of Sweet Dishes. In London it is sold entire, and
very nicely prepared, and may be served in many forms, besides being added to
soup with great advantage.
+ When the butter is considered objectionable, the flour, without it, may be
mixed to the smoothest batter possible, with a little cold stock or water, and
stirred briskly into the boiling soup: the spices should be blended with it.


CBAP. I.]
SOUPS.
27
it perfectly from scum. Put into it just before it is ready for table
three dozens of small forcemeat-balls; the brain cut into dice (after
having been well soaked, scalded," and freed from the film), dipped
into beaten yolk of egg, then into the finest crumbs mixed with salt,
white pepper, a little grated nutmeg, fine lemon-rind, and chopped
parsley fried a fine brown, well drained and dried ; and as many
egg-balls, the size of a small marble, as the yolks of four eggs will
supply. (See Chapter VIII). This quantity will be sufficient for
two large tureens of soup; when the whole is not wanted for table at
the same time, it is better to add wine only to so much as will be re-
quired for immediate consumption, or if it cannot conveniently be
divided, to heat the wine in a small saucepan with a little of the soup,
to turn it into the tureen, and then to mix it with the remainder by
stirring the whole gently after the tureen is filled. Some persons
simply put in the cold wine just before the soup is dished, but this is
not so well.
Whole calf's head with skin on, boiled 14 hour. Stock: neck of
beef, browned in butter, 8 lbs. ; lean of ham, } to $ lb. ; onions, 4;
large carrots, 3; heads of celery, 3 ; large bunch herbs; salt, 2 oz.
(as much more to be added when the soup is made as will season it
sufficiently); thin rind, 1 lemon; peppercorns, 1 dessertspoonful ;
bones and trimmings of head : 8 hours. Soup: stock, 4 to 5 quarts ;
flour and butter for thickening, of each 4 oz. ; pounded mace, half-
teaspoonful; cayenne, third as much (more of each as needed);
sherry, half pint: 2 to 3 minutes. _Flesh of head and tongue, nearly
or quite 2 lbs. : 14 to 14 hour. Forcemeat-balls, 36 ; the brain cut
and fried ; egg-balls, 16 to 24.
Obs.-When the brain is not blanched it must be cut thinner in
the form of small cakes, or it will not be done through by the time it
has taken enough colour: it may be altogether omitted without much
detriment to the soup, and will make an excellent corner dish if
gently stewed in white gravy for half an hour, and served with it
thickened with cream and arrowroot to the consistency of good white
sauce, then rather highly seasoned, and mixed with plenty of minced
parsley, and some lemon-juice.
GOOD CALF'S HEAD SOUP.
(Not expensive.)
Stew down from six to seven pounds of the thick part of a shin of
beef with a little lean ham, or a slice of hung beef, or of Jewish beef,
trimmed free from the smoky edges, in five quarts of water until re-
duced nearly half, with the addition, when it first begins to boil, of
an ounce of salt, a large bunch of savoury herbs, one large onion, a
• The brain should be blanched, that is, thrown into boiling water with &
little salt in it, and boiled from five to eight minutes, then lifted out and laid
into cold water for a quarter of an hour: it must be wiped very dry before it is
fried.


28
[CHAP. I.
MODERN COOKERY.
head of celery, three carrots, two or three turnips, two small blades
of mace, cight or ten cloves, and a few white or black peppercorns.
Let it boil gently that it may not be too much reduced, for six or seven
hours, then strain it into a clean pan and set it by for use. Take out
the bone from half a calf's head with the skin on (the butcher will
do this if desired), wash, roll, and bind it with a bit of tape or twine,
and lay it into a stewpan, with the bones and tongue; cover the whole
with the beef stock, and stew it for an hour and a half; then lift it
into a deep earthen pan and let it cool in the liquor, as this will pre-
vent the edges from becoming dry or discoloured. Take it out before it
is quite cold; strain, and skim all the fat carefully from the stock; and
heat five pints in a large clean saucepan, with the head cut into small
thick slices or into inch-squares. As quite the whole will not be
needed, leave a portion of the fat, but add every morsel of the skin to
the soup, and of the tongue also. Should the first of these not be
perfectly tender, it must be simmered gently till it is so ; then stir
into the soup from six to eight ounces of fine rice-flour mixed with
a quarter-teaspoonful of cayenne, twice as much freshly pounded
mace, half a wineglassful of mushroom catsup,* and sufficient cold
broth or water to render it of the consistence of batter; boil the whole
from eight to ten minutes ; take off the scum, and throw in two
glasses of sherry ; dish the soup and put into the tureen some delicately
and well fried forcemeat-balls made by the receipt No. 1, 2, or 3, of
Chapter VIII. A small quantity of lemon-juice or other acid can be
added at pleasure. The wine and forcemeat-balls may be omitted,
and the other seasonings of the soup a little heightened. As nnch
salt as may be required should be added to the stock when the head
first begins to boil in it: the cook must regulate also by the taste
the exact proportion of cayenne, mace, and catsup, which will flavour
the soup agreeably. The fragments of the head, with the bones and
the residue of the beef used for stock, if stewed down together with
some water and a few fresh vegetables, will afford some excellent
broth, such as would be highly acceptable, especially if well thickened
with rice, to many a poor family during the winter months.
Stock : shin of beef, 6 to 7 lbs. ; water, 5 quarts : stewed down
(with vegetables, &c.) till reduced nearly half. Boned half-head
with skin on stewed in stock : 14 hour. Soup: stock, 5 pints; tongue,
skin of head, and part of flesh : 15 to 40 minutes, or more if not
quite tender. Rice-flour, 6 to 8 oz. ; cayenne, quarter-teaspoonful ;
mace, twice as much ; mushroom catsup, , wineglassful : 10 minutes.
Sherry, 2 wineglassesful, forcemeat-balls, 20 to 30.
SOUP DES GALLES.
Add to the liquor in which a knuckle of veal has been boiled the
usual time for table as much water as will make altogether six quarts,
Unless very good and pure in flavour, we cannot recommend the addition of
this or of any other catsup to soup or gravy.


CHAP. L]
SOUPS.
29
and stew in it gently sixpennyworth of beef bones and sixpennyworth
of pork-rinds. When the boiling is somewhat advanced, throw in
the skin of a calf's head; and in an hour afterwards, or when it is
quite tender, lift it out and set it aside till wanted. Slice and fry four
large mild onions, stick into another eightor ten cloves, and put them
into the soup after it has stewed from six to seven hours. Continue the
boiling for two or three hours longer, then strain off the soup, and let
it remain until perfectly cold. When wanted for table, take it quite
clear from the fat and sediment, and heat it anew with the skin of the
calf's head cut into dice, three ounces of loaf sugar, four table-
spoonsful of strained lemon-juice, two of soy, and three wine-glasses-
ful of sherry; give it one boil, skim it well, and serve it as hot as
possible. Salt must be added to it sparingly in the first instance on
account of the soy: a proper seasoning of cayenne or pepper must not,
of course, be omitted.
This receipt was given to the writer, some years since, as a perfectly
successful imitation of a soup which was then, and is still, she believes,
selling in London at six shillings the quart. Never having tasted the
original Soupe des Galles she cannot say how far it is a correct one;
but she had it tested with great exactness when she received it first,
and found the result a very good soup, prepared at an extremely
moderate cost. The pork-rinds, when long boiled, afford a strong
and flavourless jelly, which might be advantageously used to give
consistence to other soups. They may be procured during the win-
ter, usually at the butcher's, but if not, at the porkshops : they
should be carefully washed before they are put into the soup-pot.
When a knuckle of veal cannot conveniently be had, a pound or two
of the neck and a morsel of scrag of mutton may instead be boiled
down with the beef-bones; or two or three pounds of neck or shin
of beef: but these will, of course, augment the cost of the soup.
POTAGE À LA REINE.
(A Delicate White Soup.)
Should there be no strong veal broth, nor any white stock in
readiness, stew four pounds of the scrag or knuckle of veal, with a
thick slice or two of lean ham, a faggot of sweet herbs, two moderate-
sized carrots, and the same of onions, a large blade of mace, and a
half-teaspoonful of white peppercorns, in four quarts of water until
reduced to about five pints; then strain the liquor, and set it by until the
fat can be taken entirely from it. Skin and wash thoroughly, a couple
of fine fowls, or three young pullets, and take away the dark spongy
substance which adheres to the insides ; pour the veal broth to them,
and boil them gently from three quarters of an hour to an hour; then
lifthem out, take off all the white flesh, mince it small, pound it to
the fi rest paste, and cover it with a basin until wanted for use. In
the mean time let the bodies of the fowls be put again into the stock,
and stewed gently for an hour and a half; add as much salt and


30
(CHAP. L
MODERN COOKERY.
cayenne as will season the soup properly, strain it off when sufficiently
boiled, and let it cool ; skim off every particle of fat; steep, in a small
portion of it, which should be boiling, four ounces of, the crimb of
fight stale bread sliced thin, and when it has simmered a few minutes,
drain or wring the moisture from it in a clean cloth, add it to the flesh
of the chickens, and pound them together until they are perfectly
blended; then pour the stock to them in very small quantities at
first, and mix them smoothly with it ; pass the whole through a
sieve or tammy, heat it in a clean stewpan, stir to it from a pint to
a pint and a half of boiling cream, and add, should it not be suffi-
ciently thick, an ounce and a half of arrow-root, quite free from lumps
and moistened with a few spoonsful of cold milk or stock.
REMARK.-This soup, and the two which immediately follow it, if
made with care and great nicely by the exact directions given here for
them, will be found very refined and excellent.
For stock: veal, 4 lbs. ; ham, 6 oz.; water, 4 quarts; bunch of
herbs ; carrots, 2 ; onions, 2: mace, large blade; peppercorns, tea-
spoonful; salt: 5 hours. Fowls, 2, or pullets, 3: to i hour; stewed
afterwards 1 to 1 hour. Crumb of bread, 4 oz.; cream, 1 to 11
pint; arrow-root (if needed), 1} oz.
Oós.-Some cooks pound with the bread and chickens the yolks of
three or four hard-boiled eggs, but these improve neither the colour
nor the flavour of the potage.
WHITE OYSTER SOUP.
(or Oyster Soup à la Reine.)
When the oysters are small, from two to three dozens for each
pint of soup should be prepared, but this number can of course
be diminished or increased at pleasure. Let the fish (which
should be finely conditioned natives) be opened carefully; pour the
liquor from them, and strain it; rinse them in it well, and beard
them; strain the liquor a second time through a lawn sieve or folded
muslin, and pour it again over the oysters. Take a portion from two
quarts of the palest veal stock, and simmer the beards in it from
twenty to thirty minutes. Heat the soup, flavour it with mace and
cayenne, and strain the stock from the oyster-beards into it. Plump
the fish in their own liquor, but do not let them boil ; pour the
liquor to the soup, and add to it a pint of boiling cream ; put the
oysters into the tureen, dish the soup, and send it to table quickly.
Should any thickening be required, stir briskly to the stock an ounce
and a half of arrow-root entirely free from lumps, and carefully mixed
with a little milk or cream; or, in lieu of this, when a rich soup is
liked, thicken it with four ounces of fresh butter well blended with
three of four.
Oysters, 8 to 12 dozens; pale veal stock, 2 quarts ; cream, 1 pint;
thickening, 1 oz. arrow-root, or butter, 4 oz., flour, 3 oz.


CHAP. ]
31
SOUPS.
RABBIT SOUP À LA REINE.
Wash and soak thoroughly three young rabbits, put them whole
into the soup-pot, and pour on them seven pints of cold water or of
clear veal broth; when they have stewed gently about three quarters
of an hour lift them out, and take off the flesh of the backs, with a
little from the legs should there not be half a pound of the former;
strip off the skin, mince the meat very small, and pound it to the
smoothest paste; cover it from the air, and set it by. Put back into
the soup the bodies of the rabbits, with two mild onions of moderate
size, a head of celery, three carrots, a faggot of savoury herbs, two
blades of mace, a half-teaspoonful of peppercorns, and an ounce of salt.
Stew the whole softly three hours; strain it off, let it stand to settle,
pour it gently from the sediment, put from four to five pints into a
clean stewpan, and mix it very gradually while hot with the pounded
rabbit-flesh ; this must be done with care, for if the liquid be not
added in very small portions at first, the meat will gather into lumps
and will not easily be worked smooth afterwards. Add as much
pounded mace and cayenne as will season the soup pleasantly, and pass
it through a coarse but very clean șieve; wipe out the stewpan, put
back the soup into it, and stir in when it boils, a pint and a quarter
of good cream* mixed with a tablespoonful of the best arrow'--'vot:
salt, if needed, should be thrown in previously.
Young rabbits, 3; water, or clear veal broth, 7 pints : { of an hour.
Remains of rabbits; onions, 2; celery, 1 head; carrots, 3 ; savoury
herbs; mace, 2 blades; white peppercorns, a half-teaspoonful ; salt,
1 oz. : 3 hours. Soup, 4 to 5 pints; pounded rabbit-flesh, 8 oz. ;
salt, mace, and cayenne, if needed ; cream, 11 pint; arrowroot, i
tablespoonful (or 1 ounce).
BROWN RABBIT SOUP.
Cut down into joints, four, and fry lightly, two full grown, or three
young rabbits; add to them three onions of moderate size, also fried
to a clear brown; on these pour gradually seven pints of boiling
water, throw in a large teaspoonful of salt, clear off all the scum with
care as it rises, and then put to the soup a faggot of parsley, four
not very large carrots, and a small teaspoonful of peppercorns ;
boil the whole very softly from five hours to five and a half; add more
salt if needed, strain off the soup, let it cool sufficiently for the fat to
be skimmed clean from it, heat it afresh, and send it to table with sip-
pets of fried bread. Spice, with a thickening of rice-flour, or of
wheaten flour browned in the oven, and mixed with a spoonful or two
of very good mushroom catsup, or of Harvey's sauce, can be added
at pleasure to the above, with a few drops of eschalot-wine, or vine-
gar; but the simple receipt will be found extremely good without them.
* We give this receipt exactly as we had it first compounded, but less cream
and rather more arrow-root might be used for it, and would adapt it better to the
economist.


32
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP 1
Rabbits, 2 full grown, or 3 small; onions fried, 3 middling.
sized; water, 7 pints; salt, 1 large teaspoonful or more ; carrots, t;
a taggot of parsley; peppercorns, 1 small teaspoonful: 5 to 5!
hours.
SUPERLATIVE HARE SOUP.
Cut down a hare into joints, and put into a soup-pot, or large stew-
pan, with about a pound of lean nam, in thick slices, three moderate-
sized mild onions, three blades of mace, a faggot of thyme, sweet mare
soram, and parsley, and about three quarts of good beef stock. Let
it stew very gently for full two hours from the time of its first
beginning to boil, and more, if the hare be old. Strain the soup and
pound together very fine the slices of ham and all the flesh of the
back, legs, and shoulders of the hare, and put this meat into a ster-
pan with the liquor in which it was boiled, the crumb of two French
rolls, and half a pint of port wine. Set it on the stove to simmer
twenty minutes; then rub it through a sieve, place it again on the
stove till very hot, but do not let it boil ; season it with salt and
cayenne, and send it to table directly.
Hare, 1 ; ham, 12 to 16 oz.; onions, 3 to 6; mace, 3 blades ; fag.
got of savoury herbs ; beef stock, 3 quarts: 2 hours. Crumb of 2
rolls; port wine, į pint; little salt and cayenne : 20 minutes.
A LESS EXPENSIVE HARE soup.*
Pour on two pounds of neck or shin of beef and a hare well washed
and carved into joints, one gallon of cold water, and when it boils and
has been thoroughly skimmed, add an ounce and a half of salt, two
onions, one large head of celery, three moderate-sized carrots, a tea-
spoonful of black peppercorns, and six cloves.
Let these stew very gently for three hours, or longer, should the
hare not be perfectly tender. Then take up the principal joints,
cut the meat from them, mince, and pound it to a fine paste, with the
crumb of two penny rolls (or two ounces of the crumb of household
bread) which has been soaked in a little of the boiling soup, and then
pressed very dry in a cloth; strain, and mix smoothly with it the stock
from the remainder of the hare ; pass the soup through a strainer, season
it with cayenne, and serve it when at the point of boiling; if not
sufficiently thick, add to it a tablespoonful of arrow-root moistened
with a little cold broth, and let the soup simmer for an instant after-
wards. Two or three glasses of vort wine, and two dozens of small
forcemeat-balls, may be added to this soup with good effect.
Beef, 2 lbs.; hare, 1 ; water, 1 gallon ; salt, 1 oz; onions, 2;
celery, 1 head ; carrots, 3 ; bunch of savoury herbs; peppercorns, 1
teaspoonful; clo es, 6: 3 hours, or mort. Bread, 2 oz.; cayenne,
arrow-root (if needed), 1 tablespoonful.
The remains of a roasted hare, with the forcemeat and gravy, are admirably
calculated for making this soup.


CHAP. I.]
SOU PS.
33
ECONOMICAL TURKEY SOUP.
The remains of a roast turkey, even after they have supplied the
usual mince and broil, will furnish a tureen of cheap and excellent
soup with the addition of a little fresh meat. Cut up rather small
two pounds of the neck or other lean joint of beef, and pour to it five
pints of cold water. Heat these very slowly ; skim the liquor when
it begins to boil, and add to it an ounce of salt, a small, mild onion
(the proportion of all the vegetables may be much increased when
they are liked), a little celery, and the flesh and bones of the turkey,
with any gravy or forcemeat that may have been left with them. Let
these boil gently for about three hours; then strain off the soup through
a coarse sieve or cullender, and let it remain until the fat can be en-
tirely removed from it. It may then be served merely well thickened
with rice* which has previously been boiled very dry as for currie, and
stewed in it for about ten minutes; and seasoned with one large heaped
tablespoonful or more of minced parsley, and as much salt and pepper
or cayenne as it may require. This, as the reader will perceive, is a
somewhat frugal preparation, by which the residue of a roast turkey
may be turned to economical account; but it is a favourite soup at
some good English tables, where its very simplicity is a recommenda-
tion. It can always be rendered more expensive, and of richer quality,
by the addition of lean ham or smoked beef,t a larger weight of fresh
meat, and catsup or other store-sauces.
Turkey soup à la reine is made precisely like the Potage à la Reine
of fowls or pullets, of which the receipt will be found in another part
of this chapter.
PHEASANT SOUP.
Half roast a brace of well-kept pheasants, and flour them rather
thickly when they are first laid to the fire. As soon as they are nearly
cold take all the flesh from the breasts, put it aside, and keep it
covered from the air ; carve down the remainder of the birds into
joints, bruise the bodies thoroughly, and stew the whole gently from
two to three hours in five pints of strong beef broth ; then strain oft
the soup, and press as much of it as possible from the pheasants.
Let it cool; and in the mean time strip the skins from the breasts,
mince them small, and pound them to the finest paste, with half as
much fresh butter, and half of dry crumbs of bread; season these well
with cayenne, sufficiently with salt, and moderately with pounded
mace and grated nutmeg, and add, when their flavour is liked, three
• It will be desirable to prepare six ounces of rice, and to use as much of it
as may be required, the reduction of the stock not being always equal, and the
same weight of rice therefore not being in all cases sufficient. Rice-flour can be
substituted for the whole grain and used as directed for Rice Flour Soup, page 15
+ As we have stated in our chapter of Foreign Cookery, the Jewis'i smoked
beef, of which we have given particulars there, imparts a superior flavour to
soups and gravies; and it is an economical addition to them, as a small portion
of it will much heighten their savour.
D


31
[CHAP. I.
MODERN COOKERY.
or four eschalots previously boiled tender in a little of the soup, left
till cold, and minced before they are put into the mortar. Moisten the
mixture with the yolks of two or three eggs, roll it into small balls
of equal size, dust a little flour upon them, skim all the fat from the
soup, heat it in a clean stewpan, and when it boils throw them in and
poach them from ten to twelve minutes, but first ascertain that the
soup is properly seasoned with salt and cayenne. We have recom-
mended that.the birds should be partially roasted before they are put
into the soup-pot, because their flavour is much finer when this is
done than when they are simply stewed ; they should be placed rather
near to a brisk fire that they may be quickly browned on the sur-
face without losing any of their juices, and the basting should be con-
stant. A slight thickening of rice-flour and arrow-root can be added
to the soup at pleasure, and the forcemeat-balls may be ired
and dropped into the tureen when they are preferred so. Half
a dozen eschalots lightly browned in butter, and a small head of
celery, may also be thrown in after the birds begin to stew, but nothing
should be allowed to prevail over the natural flavour of the game
itself; and this should be observed equally with other kinds, as par-
tridges, grouse, and venison.
Pheasants, 2 : roasted 20 to_25 minutes. Strong beef broth, or
stock, 5 pints: 2 to 3 hours. Forcemeat-balls: breasts of pheasants,
half as much dry bread-crumbs and of butter, salt, mace, cayenne;
yolks of 2 or 3 eggs (and at choice 3 or 4 boiled eschalots).
Obs.—The stock may be made of six pounds of shin of beef, and
four quarts of water reduced to within a pint of half. Anonion, a large
carrot, a bunch of savoury herbs, and some salt and spice should be
added to it: one pound of neck of veal or of beef will improve it.
ANOTHER PHEASANT SOUP.
Boil down the half-roasted birds as directed in the foregoing receipt,
and add to the soup, after it is strained and re-heated, the breasts
pounded to the finest paste with nearly as much bread soaked in a
little of the stock and pressed very dry; for the proper manner of
mixing them, see Potage à la Reine, (page 29). Half a pint of small
mushrooms cleaned as for pickling, then sliced rather thickly, and
stewed from ten to fifteen minutes without browning, in an ounce or
two of fresh butter, with a slight seasoning of mace, cayenne, and
salt, then turned into the mortar and pounded with the other ingre-
dients, will be found an excellent addition to the soup, which must
be passed through a strainer after the breasts are added to it, brought
to the point of boiling, and served with sippets à la Reine, or with
others simply fried of a delicate brown and well dried. We hare
occasionally had a small quantity of delicious soup made with the
remains of birds which have been served at table; nd
is frequently dressed, the cook, by reserving all the fragments for the
purpose, and combining different kinds, may often send up a good
iureen of such, made at a very slight cost.
here game


CHAP. L]
35
SOUPS.
Pheasants, 2: stock, 5 pints : bread soaked in gravy (see Panada,
Chapter VIII), nearly as much in bulk as the flesh of the breasts of
the birds : mushrooms, , pint, stewed in one or two oz. of butter 10 to
15 minutes, then pounded with flesh of pheasants. Sait, cayenne
and mace, to season properly.
PARTRIDGE SOUP.
This is, we think, superior in flavour to the pheasant soup. It
should be made in precisely the same manner, but three birds allowed
for it instead of two. Grouse and partridges together will make a
still finer one; the remains of roast grouse even, added to a brace of
partridges, will produce a very good effect.
MULLAGATAWNY SOUP.
Slice, and fry gently in some good butter three or four large onions,
and when they are of a fine equal amber-colour lift them out with a
slice and put them into a deep stewpot, or large thick saucepan; throw
a little more butter into the pan, and then brown lightly in it a
young rabbit, or the vrime joints of two, or a fowl cut down small,
and floured. When the meat is sufficiently browned, lay it upon the
onions, pour gradually to them a quart of good boiling stock, and
stew it gently from three quarters of an hour to an hour; then take
it out, and pass the stock and onions through a fine sieve or strainer.
Add to them two pints and a half more of stock, pour the whole into
a clean pan, and when it boils stir to it two tablespoonsful of currie-
powder mixed with nearly as much of browned flour, and a little
cold water or broth, put in the meat, and simmer it for twenty minutes
or longer should it not be perfectly tender, add the juice of a small
lemon just before it is dished, serve it very hot, and send boiled rice
to table with it. Part of a pickled mango cut into strips about the
size of large straws, is sometimes served in this soup, after being
stewed in it for a few minutes; a little of the pickle itself should be
added with it. We have given here the sort of receipt commonly
used in England for mullagatawny, but a much finer soup may be
made by departing from it in some respects. The onions, of which
the proportion may be increased or diminished to the taste, after being
fried slowly and with care, that no part should be overdone, may be
stewed for an hour in the first quart of stock with three or four ounces
of grated cocoa-nut,* which will impart a rich mellow flavour to the
whole. After all of this that can be rubbed through the sieve has been
added to as much more stock as will be required for the soup, and the
currie-powder and thickening have been boiled in it for twenty minutes,
• That our readers whom this ingredient in soups is new, may not be mis-
led, we must repeat here, that although the cocoa-nut when it is young and fresh
imparts a peculiarly rich flavour to any preparation, it is not liked by all eaters,
and is better omitted when the taste of a party is not known, and only one soup
is served


36
[CHAP. I
MODERN COOKERY.
the flesh of part of a calf's head," previously stewed almost tender, and
cut as for mock turtle, with a sweetbread also parboiled or stewed
in broth, and divided into inch-squares, will make an admirable
mullagatawny, if simmered in the stock until they have taken the
flavour of the currie-seasoning. The flesh of a couple of calves' feet,
with a sweetbread or two, may, when more convenient, be substituted
for the head. A large cupful of thick cream, first mixed and boiled with
a teaspoonful of four or arrow-root to prevent its curdling, and stirred
into the soup before the lemon-juice, will enrich and improve it much.
Rabbit, 1, or the best joints of, 2, or fowl, 1 ; large onions, 4 to 6;
stock, 1 quart : 4 to 1 hour. 2, pints more of stock; currie-powder, 2
heaped tablespoonsful, with 2 of browned flour; meat and all sim-
mered together 20 minutes or more ; juice of lemon, 1 small; or
part of pickled mango stewed in the soup 3 to 4 minutes.
Or,-onions, 3 to 6; cocoa-nut, 3 to 4 oz.; stock, 1 quart; stewed
1 hour. Stock, 3 pints (in addition to the first quart); currie-powder
and thickening each, 2 large tablespoonsful: 20 minutes. Flesh of part
of calf's head and sweetbread, 15 minutes or more. Thick cream, 1
cupful; flour or arrow-root, 1 teaspoonful; boiled 2 minutes, and
stirred to the soup. Chili vinegar, 1 tablespoonful, or lemon-juice, ?
tablespoonsful.
Obs. 1.-The brain of the calf's head stewed for twenty minutes in
a little of the stock, then rubbed through a sieve, diluted gradually
with more of the stock, and added as thickening to the soup, will be
found an admirable substitute for part of the flour.
Obs. 2.—Three or four pounds of a breast of veal, or an equal
weight of mutton, free from bone and fat, may take the place of rab-
bits or fowls in this soup, for a plain dinner. The veal should be cut
into squares of an inch and a half, or into strips of an inch in width,
and two in length ; and the mutton should be trimmed down in the
same way, or into very small cutlets.
Obs. 3.–For an elegant table, the joints of rabbit or of fowl should
always be boned before they are added to the soup, for which, in this
case, a couple of each will be needed for a single tureen, as all the
inferior joints must be rejected.
TO BOIL RICE FOR MULLAGATAWNY SOUPS, OR FOR CURRIES.
The Patna, or small-grained rice, which is not so good as the Caro-
lina, for the general purposes of cookery, ought to be served with
currie. First take out the unhusked grains, then wash the rice in
several waters, and put it into a large quantity of cold water; bring
it gently to boil, keeping it uncovered, and boil it softly for fifteen
ininutes, when it will be perfectly tender, and every grain will remain
distinct. Throw it into a large cullender, and let it drain for ten
minutes near the fire ; should it not then appear quite dry, turn it
• The scalp or skin only of a calf's head will make excellent mullagatawny
rith good broth for stock; and many kinds of shell-fish also.


CHAP. I.)
37
SOUPD.
into a dish, and set it for a short time into a gentle oven, or let it
steam in a clean saucepan near the fire. It should neither be stirred,
except just at first, to prevent its lumping while it is still quite hard,
nor touched with either fork or spoon ; the stewpan may be shaken
occasionally, should the rice seem to require it, and it should be
thrown lightly from the cullender upon the dish. A couple of minutes
before it is done, throw in some salt
, and from the time of its begin-
ning to boil remove the scum as it rises.
Patna rice, { lb.; cold water, 2 quarts : boiled slowly, 15 minutes
Salt, 1 large teaspoonful.
Obs.—This, of all the modes of boiling rice which we have tried
and they have been very numerous, is indisputably the best. Thi
Carolina rice answers well dressed in the same manner, but requires
four or five minutes longer boiling: it should never be served until it
is quite tender. One or two minutes, more or less, will sometimes,
from the varying quality of the grain, be requisite to render it ten-
der
GOOD VEGETABLE MULLAGATAWNY.
Dissolve in a large stewpan or thick iron saucepan, four ounces
of butter, and when it is on the point of browning, throw in four
large mild onions sliced, three pounds weight of young vegetable
marrow cut in large dice and cleared from the skin and seeds, four
large or six moderate-sized cucumbers, pared, split, and emptied
likewise of their seeds, and from three to six large acid apples, ac-
cording to the taste; shake the pan often, and stew these over a
gentle fire until they are tolerably tender ; then strew lightly over
and mix well amongst them, three heaped tablespoonsful of mild
currie powder, with nearly a third as much of salt, and let the vege-
tables stew from twenty to thirty minutes longer; then pour to
them gradually sufficient boiling water (broth or stock if preferred)
to just cover them, and when they are reduced almost to a pulp press
the whole through a hair-sieve with a wooden spoon, and heat it in a
clean stewpan, with as much additional liquid as will make two
quarts with that which was first added. Give any flavouring that
may be needed, whether of salt, cayenne, or acid, and serve the soup
extremely hot. Should any butter appear on the surface, let it be
carefully skimmed off, or stir in a small dessertspoonful of arrow-root
(smoothly mixed with a little cold broth or water) to absorb it.
Rice may be served with this soup at pleasure, but as it is of the
consistence of winter peas soup, it scarcely requires any addition
The currie powder may be altogether omitted for variety, and the
whole converted into a plain vegetable potage; or it may be rendered
one of high savour, by browning all the vegetables lightly, and
adding to them rich brown stock. Tomatas, when in season, may be
substituted for the apples, after being divided, and freed from their
seeds.
Butter, 4 oz. ; vegetable marrow, pared and scooped, 3 lbs ;


38
[Char. 1
MODERN COOKERY.
large mild onions, 4; large cucumbers, 4; or middling-sized, 6;
apples, or large tomatas, 3 to 6; 30 to 40 minutes. Mild currie-
powder, 3 heaped tablespoonsful; salt, one small tablespoonful:
20 to 32 minutes. Water, broth, or good stock, 2 quarts.
CUCUMBER SOUP.
Pare, split, and empty from eight to twenty* fine, well grown, but
not old cucuinbers,-those which have the fewest seeds are best for
the purpose; throw a little salt over them, and leave them for an
hour to drain, then put them with the white part only of a couple
of mild onions into a deep stewpan or delicately clean saucepan, cover
them nearly half an inch with pale but good real stock, and stew
them gently until they are perfectly tender, which will be in from
three quarters of an hour to an hour and a quarter; work the whole
through a hair-sieve, and add to it as much more stock as may be
needed to make the quantity of soup required for table; and as the
cucumbers, from their watery nature, will thicken it but little, stir to
it when it boils, as much arrow-root, rice-flour, or tous les mois (see
page 1), as will bring it to a good consistence; add from half to a
whole pint of boiling cream, and serve the soup immediately. Salt
and cayenne sufficient to season it, should be thrown over the
cucumbers while they are stewing. The yolks of six or eight egts,
mixed with a dessertspoonful of chili vinegar, may be used for this
soup instead of cream; three dessertspoonsful of minced parsley
may then be strewed into it a couple of minutes before they are
added : it must not, of course, be allowed to boil after they are stirred
in.
SPRING SOUP AND SOUP À LA JULIENNE.
Throw into three quarts of strong clear broth, or shin of beef
stock, or of consommé, half a pint each of turnips and carrots pre-
pared by the directions of page 20, or turned into any other shape
that may be preferred, with rather less of the solid part of some
white celery stems, and of leeks or of very mild onionst mixed. The
latter must, if used, be sliced, drawn into rings, and divided into
slight shreds.
When these have simmered from twenty to thirty
minutes, add the leaves of one or two lettuces and a few of sorrel,
trimmed or torn, about the size of half - a - crown. Continue the
gentle boiling until these are tender, and add at the moment of serving
half a pint of asparagus-points boiled very green, and as many French
beans cut into small lozenges, and also boiled apart; or substitute
green peas
for these last.
For the Julienne soup, first stew the carrots, &c. tolerably tender
in a couple of ounces of butter; pour the stock boiling to them
skim off all the fat from the surface, and finish as above. Sprigs of
. This is a great disparity of numbers; but some regard must be had to ex-
pense, where the vegetable cannot be obtained with facility.
+ Only a very subdued flavour of these is, we think, admissible for a delicate
vegetable soup of any kind


CHAP. I.]
39
SOUPS.
chervil, spinach (boiled apart, and sparingly added), green onions,
very small tufts of brocoli or cauliflower, may all be used in these
soups at choice. Both the kind and the proportion of the vegetables
can be regulated entirely by the taste. Bread stamped out with a
very small round cutter, and dried a pale brown in the oven, is added
sometimes to this spring soup, but is, we should say, no improvement.
Winter vegetables should have three or four minutes' previous boiling
(or blanching) before they are put into the soup.
AN EXCELLENT GREEN PEAS SOUP.
Take at their fullest size, but before they are of bad colour or
worm-eaten, three pints of fine large peas, and boil them as for
table (see Chapter XVII.) with half a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda
in the water, that they may be very green. When they are quite
tender, drain them well, and put them into a couple of quarts of
boiling, pale, but good beef or veal stock, and stew them in it gently
for half an hour; then work the whole through a fine hair-sieve,
put it into a clean pan and bring it to the point of boiling; add salt,
should it be needed, and a small teaspoonful of pounded sugar; clear
off the scum entirely, and serve the soup as hot as possible. An
elegant variety of it is made by adding a half pint more of stock to
the peas, and about three quarters of a pint of asparagus points,
boiled apart, and well drained before they are thrown into it, which
should be done only the instant before it is sent to table.
Green peas, 3 pints: boiled 25 to 30 minutes, or more. Veal or
beef stock, 2 quarts (with peas): 1 an hour. Sugar, one small tea-
spoonful ; salt, if needed.
Obs.—When there is no stock at hand, four or five pounds of
shin of beef boiled slowly down with three quarts of water to two, and
well seasoned with savoury herbs, young carrots, and onions, will
serve instead quite well. A thick slice of lean, undressed ham, or of
Jewish beef, would improve it.
Should a common English peas soup be wished for, make it some-
what thinner than the one above, and add to it, just before it is
dished, from half to three quarters of a pint of young peas boiled
tender and well drained.
GREEN PEAS SOUP, WITHOUT MEAT.
Boil tender in three quarts of water, with the proportions of salt
and soda directed for them in Chapter XVII., one quart of large, full
grown peas; drain and pound them in a mortar, mix with them
gradually five pints of the liquor in which they were cooked, put the
whole again over the fire, and stew it gently for a quarter of an
hour; then press it through a hair-sieve. In the mean time, simmer
in from three to four ounces of butter,* three large, or four small
• Some persons prefer the vegetables slowly fried to a fine brown, then drained
on a sieve, and well dried before the fire; but though more savoury so, they do
not improve the colour of the soup.


40
[CHAP. L
MODERN COOKERY.
cucumbers pared and sliced, the hearts of three or four lettuces shred
small, from one to four onions, according to the taste, cut thin, a few
small sprigs of parsley, and, when the flavour is liked, a dozen
leaves or more of mint roughly chopped : keep these stirred over a
gentle fire for nearly or quite an hour, and strew over them a half-
teaspoonful of salt, and a good seasoning of white pepper or cayenne.
When they are partially done drain them from the butter, put them
into the strained stock, and let the whole boil gently until all the
butter has been thrown to the surface, and been entirely cleared from
it; then throw in from half to three quarters of a pint of young
peas boiled as for eating, and serve the soup immediately.
When more convenient, the peas, with a portion of the liquor, may
be rubbed through a sieve, instead of being crushed in a mortar; and
when the colour of the soup is not so much a consideration as the
flavour, they may be slowly stewed until perfectly tender in four
ounces of good butter, instead of being boiled: a few green onions,
and some branches of parsley may then be added to them.
Green peas, 1 quart; water, 5 pints: cucumbers, 3 to 6 ; lettuces,
3 or 4 ; onions, 1 to 4; little parsley; mint (if liked), 12 to 20
leaves ; butter, 3 to 4 oz.; salt, half-teaspoonful; seasoning of white
pepper or cayenne : 50 to 60 minutes. Young peas, to i of a pint.
Obs.- We must repeat that the peas for these soups must not be
old, as when they are so, their fine sweet flavour is entirely lost, and
the dried ones would have almost as good an effect; nor should they
be of inferior kinds. Freshly gathered marrowfats, taken at nearly
or quite their full growth, will give the best quality of soup. We
are credibly informed, but cannot assert it on our own authority,
that it is often made for expensive tables in early spring, with the
young tender plants or halms of the peas, when they are about a
foot in height. They are cut off close to the ground, like small
salad, we are told, then boiled and pressed through a strainer, and
mixed with the stock. The flavour is affirmed to be excellent.
A CHEAP GREEN PEAS SOUP.
Wash very clean and throw into an equal quantity of boiling
water salted as for peas, three quarts of the shells, and in from
twenty to thirty minutes, when they will be quite tender, turn the
whole into a large strainer, and press the pods strongly with a wooden
spoon. Measure the liquor, put two quarts of it into a clean deep
faucepan, and when it boils add to it a quart of full grown peas, two
or even three large cucumbers, as many moderate-sized lettuces
freed from the coarser leaves and cut small, one large onion (or more
if liked) sliced extremely thin and stewed for half an hour in a
morsel of butter before it is added to the soup, or gently fried with.
out being allowed to brown ; a branch or twº of parsley, and, when
the flavour is liked, a dozen leaves of mint. Stew these softly for an
hour, with the addition of a small teaspoonful, or a larger quantity
if' required of salt, and a good seasoning of fine white pepper or of


CHAP. ]
41
SOUPS.
cayenne; then work the whole of the vegetables with the soup
through a hair-sieve, heat it afresh, and send it to table with a dish
of small fried sippets. The colour will not be so bright as that of
the more expensive soups which precede it, but it will be excellent
in flavour.
Pea-shells, 3 quarts; water, 3 quarts : 20 to 30 minutes. Liquor
from these, 2 quarts ; full-sized green peas, 1 quart; large cucum-
bers, 2 or 3; lettuces, 3; onion, 1 (or more); little parsley ;
mint, 12 leaves; seasoning of salt and pepper or cayenne : stewed 1
hour.
Obs.—The cucumbers should be pared, quartered, and freed from
the seeds before they are added to the soup. The peas, as we have
said already more than once, should not be old, but taken at their
full growth, before they lose their colour: the youngest of the shells
ought to be selected for the liquor.
RICH PEAS SOUP.
Soak a quart of fine yellow split peas for a night, drain them well,
and put them into a large soup-pot with five quarts of good brown
gravy stock; and when they have boiled gently for half an hour,
add to the soup three onions, as many carrots, and a turnip or two, all
sliced and fried carefully in butter; stew the whole softly until the
peas are reduced to pulp, then add as much salt and cayenne as may
be needed to season it well, give it two or three minutes' boil, and
pass it through a sieve, pressing the vegetables with it. Put into a
clean saucepan as much as may be required for table, add a little
fresh stock to it should it be too thick, and reduce it by quick boil-
ing if too thin; throw in the white part of some fresh celery sliced
a quarter of an inch thick, and when this is tender send the soup
quickly to table with a dish of small fried or toasted sippets. A
dessertspoonful or more of currie-powder greatly improves peas
soup: it should be smoothly mixed with a few spoonsful of it, and
poured to the remainder when this first begins to boil after having
been strained.
Split peas, 1 quart: soaked one night. Good brown gravy soup,
5 quarts: 30 minutes. Onions and carrots browned in butter,
3 of each; turnips, 2: 21 to 31 hours. Cayenne and salt as
needed. Soup, 5 pints; celery, sliced, 1 large or 2 small heads: 20
minutes.
Obs.—When more convenient, six pounds of neck of beef well
scored and equally and carefully browned, may be boiled gently with
the peas and fried vegetables in a gallon of water (which should be
poured to them boiling) for four or five hours.
COMMON PEAS SOUP.
Wash well a quart of good split peas, and float off such as remain
on the surface of the water ; soak them for one night, and boil them


MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. I
with a bit of soda the size of a filbert in just sufficient water to allow
them to break to a mash. Put them into from three to four quarts
of good beef broth, and stew them in it gently for an hour; then
work the whole through a sieve, heat afresh as much as may be
required for table, season it with salt and cayenne or common pepper,
clear it perfectly from scum, and send it to table with fried or toasted
bread. Celery sliced and stewed in it as directed for the rich peas
soup, will be found a great improvement to this.
Peas, 1 quart: soaked 1 night; boiled in 2 quarts or rather more
of water, 2 to 2} bours. Beef broth, 3 to 4 quarts: 1 hour. Salt
and cayenne or pepper as needed : 3 minutes.
PEAS SOUP WITHOUT MEAT.
To a pint of peas, freed from all that are worm-eaten, and well
washed, put five pints of cold water, and boil them tolerably tender;
then add a couple of onions (more or less according to the taste), a
couple of fine carrots grated, one large or two moderate-sized
turnips sliced, all gently fried brown in butter; half a teaspoonful
of black pepper, and three times as much of salt. Stew these softly,
keeping them often stirred, until the vegetables are sufficiently tender
to pass through a sieve; then rub the whole through one, put it into
a clean pan, and when it boils throw in a sliced head of celery,
heighten the seasoning if needful, and in twenty minutes serve the
soup as hot as possible, with a dish of fried or toasted bread cut into
dice. A little chili vinegar can be added when liked: a larger pro-
portion of vegetables also may be boiled down with the peas at plea-
Weak broth, or the liquor in which a joint has been boiled,
can be substituted for the water; but the soup is very palatable as
we have given the receipt for it. Some persons like it flavoured
with a little mushroom catsup. All peas soup is rendered more
wholesome by the addition of a small quantity of currie-paste or
powder.
Split peas, 1 pint; water, 5 pints: 2 hours or more. Onions, 2;
carrots, 2 ; large turnip, 1 ; pepper, , teaspoonful; salt, 1 teaspoon-
ful: 1'to 1$ hour. Celery, i head : 20 minutes.
sure.
OX-TAIL SOUP.
An inexpensive and very nutritious soup may be made of ox-tails,
but it will be insipid in flavour without the addition of a little ham,
knuckle of bacon, or a pound or two of other meat. Wash and soak
three tails, pour on them a gallon of cold water, let them be brought
gradually to boil, throw in an ounce and a half of salt, and clear off
The scum carefully as soon as it forms upon the surface; when it
ceases to rise, add four moderate-sized carrots, from two to four
onions, according to the taste, a large faggot of savoury herbs, a head
of celery, a couple of turnips, six or eight cloves, and a half-teaspoon-
ful of peppercorns.
Stew these gently from three hours to three and


CHAP. L]
43
SOUPS.
a half, if the tails be very large ; lift them out, strain the liquor, and
skim off all the fat; divide the tails into joints, and put them into a
couple of quarts or rather more of the stock; stir in, when these
begin to boil
, a thickening of arrow-root or of rice flour (see page 4),
mixed with as much cayenne and salt as may be required to flavour
the soup well, and serve it very hot. If stewed down until the flesh
falls away from the bones, the ox-tails will make stock which will be
quite a firm jelly when cold; and this, strained, thickened, and well
flavoured with spices, catsup, or a little wine, would, to many tastes,
be a superior soup to the above. A richer one still may be made by
pouring good beef broth instead of water to the meat in the first in-
stance.
Ox-tails, 3 ; water, 1 gallon; salt, l} oz.; carrots, 4; onions, 2 to
4; turnips, 2; celery, 1 head; cloves, 8 ; peppercorns, į teaspoonful;
faggot of savoury herbs : 3 hours to 31. For a richer soup, 5 to 6
hours. (Ham or gammon of bacon at pleasure, with other favour-
ings.)
Obs.-To increase the savour of this soup when the meat is not
served in it, the onions, turnips, and carrots may be gently fried until
of a fine light brown, before they are added to it.
A CHEAP AND GOOD STEW SOUP.
Put from four to five pounds of the gristly part of the shin of beef
into three quarts of cold water, and stew it very softly indeed, with
the addition of the salt and vegetables directed for bouillon (see page
7), until the whole is very tender; lift out the meat, strain the
liquor, and put it into a large clean saucepan, add a thickening of
rice-flour or arrowroot, pepper and salt if needed, and a tablespoonful
of mushroom catsup. In the mean time, cut all the meat into small,
thick slices, add it to the soup, and serve it as soon as it is very hot.
The thickening and catsup may be omitted, and all the vegetables,
pressed through a strainer, may be stirred into the soup instead, be-
fore the meat is put back into it.
SOUP IN HASTE.
Chop tolerably fine a pound of lean beef, mutton, or veal, and when
it is partly done, add to it a small carrot and one small turnip cut in
slices, half an ounce of celery, the white part of a moderate-sized
leek, or a quarter of an ounce of onion. Mince all these together, and
put the whole into a deep saucepan with three pints of cold water
When the soup boils take off the scum, and add a little salt and
pepper. In half an hour it will be ready to serve with or without
straining : it may be flavoured at will, with cayenne, catsup, or aught
else that is preferred, or it may be converted into French spring
broth, by passing it through a sieve, and boiling it again for five or
six minutes, with a handful of young and well washed sorrel.
Meat, 1 lb.; carrot, 2 oz. ; turnip, 1} oz.; celery, 1 oz.; onion, i oz..
water, 3 dints : half an hour. Little pepper and salt.


44
[CHAP. I
MODERN COOKERY.
Obs.-- Three pounds of beef or mutton, with two or three slices of
ham, and vegetables in proportion to the above receipt, all chopped
fine, and boiled in three quarts of water for an hour and a half, will
make an excellent family soup on an emergency : additional boiling
will of course improve it, and a little spice should be added after it
has been skimmed and salted. It may easily be converted into carrot,
turnip, or ground-rice soup after it is strained.
VEAL OR MUTTON BROTII.
To each pound of meat add a quart of cold water, bring it gently
to boil, skim it very clean, add salt in the same proportion as for
bouillon (see page 7), with spices and vegetables also, unless ur-
favoured broth be required, when a few peppercorns, a blade or two
of mace, and a bunch of savoury herbs, will be sufficient; though for
some purposes even these, with the exception of the salt, are better
omitted. “Simmer the broth for about four hours, unless the quan-
tity be very small, when from two and a half to three, will be suffi-
cient. A little rice boiled down with the meat will both thicken the
broth, and render it more nutritious. Strain it off when done, and
let it stand till quite cold that the fat may be entirely cleared from it:
this is especially needful when it is to be served to an invalid.
Veal or mutton, 4 lbs.; water, 4 quarts; salt. (For vegetables, &c.,
see page 7 ;) rice (if used), 4 oz. : 4 hours or more.
MILK SOUP WITH VERMICELLI.
Throw into five pints of boiling milk a small quantity of salt, and
then drop lightly into it five ounces of good fresh vermicelli; keep
the milk stirred as this is added, to prevent its gathering into lumps,
and continue to stir it very frequently from fifteen to twenty minutes,
or until it is perfectly tender. The addition of a little pounded sugar
and powdered cinnamon renders this a very agreeable dish. In Ca-
tholic countries, milk soups of various kinds constantly supply the
place of those made with meat, on maigre days; and with us they
are sometimes very acceptable, as giving a change of diet for the nur-
sery or sick room. Rice, semoulina, sago, cocoa-nut, and maccaroni
may all in turn be used for them as directed for other soups in this
chapter, but they will be required in rather smaller proportions with
the milk.
Milk, 5 pints; vermicelli, 5 oz. : 15 to 20 minutes.
CHEAP RICE SOUP.
Place a gallon of water on the fire (more or less according to the
quantity of soup required), and when it boils, throw in a moderate-
sized tablespoonful of salt, and two or three onions, thickly sliced,
a faggot of sweet herbs, a rent of celery, and three or four jarge
carrots split down into many divisions, and cut into short lengths.
Boil these gently for an hour and a half, or two hours, and then strain
the liquor from them. When time will permit, let it become cold ;


CHAP. I.)
45
SOUPS.
then for each quart, take from three to four ounces of well washed
rice, pour the soup or it, heat it very slowly, giving it an occasional
stir, and stew it gently until it is perfectly tender, and the potage
quite thick. A moderate seasoning of pepper, and an ounce or two
of fresh butter well blended with a teaspoonful of flour, may be
thoroughly stirred up with the soup before it is served ; or, in lieu of
the butter, the yolks of two or three new-laid eggs, mixed with a little
milk, may be carefully added to it.
It may be more quickly prepared by substituting vermicelli, semou-
lina, or soujee for the rice, as this last will require three quarters of
an hour or more of stewing after it begins to boil, and the three other
ingredients-either of which must be dropped gradually into the
soup when it is in full ebullition-will be done in from twenty to
thirty minutes ; and two ounces will thicken sufficiently a quart of
broth.
A large tablespoonful of Captain White's currie-paste, and a small
one of flour, diluted with a spoonful or two or two of the broth, or
with a little milk or cream, if perfectly mixed with the rice and stewed
with it for fifteen or twenty minutes before it is dished, render it
excellent: few eaters would discover that it was made without meat.
Good beef or mutton broth can be used instead of water for the
above soup, and in that case the vegetables sliced small, or rubbed
through a strainer, may be added to it before it is served.
CARROT SOUP MAIGRE.
Throw two ounces of salt into a gallon of boiling water, then add
three or four carrots quartered or thickly sliced, one onion or more
according to the taste, and a faggot of parsley, or some parsley roots.
When these have boiled gently for upwards of an hour, strain off the
liquor and put it back into the saucepan. Have ready more carrots,
nicely scraped and washed ; split them down into strips about the
size of large macaroni and cut them into balf finger lengths. Two
quarts of these will not be too much for persons who like the soup
well filled with the vegetable ; boil them perfectly tender, and turn
them with their liquor into the tureen, first adding pepper sufficient
to season it properly, and more salt if needed. The proportion of
carrots may be diminished, and a quart or more of Brussels sprouts,
boiled and drained, may be substituted for part of them. Some per-
sons have these soups thickened, or enriched as they think, with flour
and butter ; but the latter ingredient should at least be sparingly used;
and any other kind of thickening is more wholesome. A few ounces
of vermicelli stewed in them for twenty minutes or rather longer, will
be found a very good one. Ceiery, leeks, and turnips may be boiled
down in the carrot-stock, or added when the fresh vegetables have
been stewed in it for about ten minutes.


46
[CHAP. I.
MODERN COOKERY.
CHEAP FISH SOUPS.
An infinite variety of excellent soups may be made of fish, which
may be stewed down for them in precisely the same manner as meas,
and with the same addition of vegetables and herbs. When the skin
is coarse or rank it should be carefully stripped off before the fish is
used; and any oily particles which may float on the surface should
be entirely removed from it.
In France, Jersey, Cornwall, and many other localities, the conger eel,
Jivested of its skin, is sliced up into thick cutlets and made into soup,
which we are assured by English families who have it often served at
their tables, is extremely good. A half-grown fish is best for the pur-
pose. After the soup has been strained and allowed to settle, it must
be heated afresh, and rice and minced parsley may be added to it as
for the turkey soup of page 32; or it may be thickened with rice.
flour only, or served clear. Curried fish-soups, too, are much to be
recommended.
When broth or stock has been made as above with conger eel,
common cels, whitings, haddocks, codlings, fresh water fish, or any
common kind, which may be at hand, flakes of cold salmon, cod fish,
John Dories, or scallops of cold soles, plaice, * &c., may be heated and
served in it; and the remains of crabs or lobsters mingled with
them. The large oysters sold at so cheap a rate upon the
coast, and which are not much esteemed for eating raw, serve
admirably for imparting flavour to soup, and the softer portions of
them may be served in it after a few minutes of gentle simmering.
Anchovy or any other store fish-sauce may be added with good effect
to marry of these pottages if used with moderation. Prawns and
shrimps likewise would generally be considered an improvement to
them.
For more savoury preparations, fry the fish and vegetables, lay
them into the soup-pot, and add boiling, instead of cold water to
them.
BUCHANAN CARROT SOUP.
(Excellent.)
Make two quarts of soup by either of the foregoing receipts, using
for it good brown stock (for a common family dinner strong beef broth
will do). Mix smoothly with a little liquid, a tablespoonful of fine cur-
rie-powder, and boil it in the soup for ten minutes; or instead of this,
season it rather highly with cayenne pepper, and then stir into it from
six ounces to half a pound of Patna rice boiled dry and tender as for
a currie. The whole may then remain by the side of the fire without
even simmering for ten minutes longer, and then be served imme-
liately. As a winter potage this is generally much liked. A spoonful
of Captain White's currie-paste will flavour it very agreeably if
• Cold vegetables, cut up small, may be added with these at pleasure.


CHAP. I.]
47
SOUPS.
smoothly diluted, and simmered in it for two or three minutes : we
prefer it always to the powder. Three or four ounces of pearl-barley
well washed, soaked for some hours, and boiled extremely tender in
broth or water, may on occasion be substituted for the rice.
Obs.—This receipt was, from inadvertence, omitted at its proper
place, page 20, where it ought to have been inserted after the carrot
soups which will be found there, and to which the reader is referred
for the method of preparing the present one in part.
OBSERVATION.
The present chapter already so far exceeds the limits within
which it ought to have been confined, that we are obliged to reserve
several additions which we were desirous of making to it, for the
chance of being able to insert them in an appendix.


48
[CHAF. LL
MODERN COOKERY
CHAPTER II.
fish.

so
TO CHOOSE FISH.
The cook should be well
acquainted with the
signs of freshness and
good condition in fish, as
they are most unwhile-
some articles of food
when stale, and many
of them are also dan.
gerous eating when they
are out of season. The
eyes should always be
bright, the gills of a
fine clear red, the body
Copper Fish or Ham Kettle.
stiff, the flesh firm, yet elastic to the touch, and the smell not dis-


CHAP. II.]
49
FISH.
3
Mackerel Kettle.
agreeable. When all these marks are reversed, and the eyes are
sunken, the gills very dark in hue, the fish itself flabby and of offen-
sive odour, it is bad, and should be avoided.
The chloride of soda, will, it is true, restore
it to a tolerably eatable state, * if it be not
very much over-kept, but it will never resem-
ble in quality and wholesomeness fish which
is fresh from the water.
A good turbot is thick, and full fleshed, and
the under side is of a pale cream colour or
yellowish white; when this is of a bluish tint,
and the fish is thin and soft, it should be re-
jected. The same observations apply equally
to soles.
The best salmon and cod fish are known by a small head, very
thick shoulders, and a small tail ; the scales of the former should be
bright, and its flesh of a fine red colour; to be eaten in perfection it
should be dressed as soon as it is caught, before the curd (or white
substance which lies between the flakes of flesh) has melted and ren-
dered the fish oily. In that state it is really crimp, but continues so
only for a very few hours; and it bears therefore a much higher price
in the London market then, than when mellowed by having been kept
a day or two.
The flesh of cod fish should be white and clear before it is boiled,
whiter still after it is boiled, and firm though tender, sweet and mild
in flavour, and separated easily into large flakes. Many persons con-
sider it rather improved than otherwise by having a little salt rubbed
along the inside of the backbone and letting it lie from twenty-four to
forty-eight hours before it is dressed, It is sometimes served crimp
like salmon, and must then be sliced as soon as it is dead, or within the
shortest possible time afterwards.
Herrings, mackerel, and whitings, unless newly caught, are quite
uneatable. When they are in good condition their natural colours
will be very distinct and their whole appearance glossy and fresh.
The herring when first taken from the water is of a silvery bright-
ness; the back of the mackerel is of a bright green marked with dark
stripes; but this becomes of a coppery colour as the fish grows stale.
The whiting is of a pale brown or fawn colour with a pinkish tint;
but appears dim and leaden-hued when no longer fresh.
Eels should be alive and brisk in movement when they are purchased,
but the “horrid barbarity," as it is truly designated, of skinning and
dividing them while they are so, is without excuse, as they are easily
destroyed" by piercing the spinal marrow close to the back part of the
skull with a sharp pointed knife or skewer. If this be done in the right
We have known this applied very successfully to salmon which from some
hours' keeping in sultry weather had acquired a slight degree of taint, of which
no trace remained after it was dressed ; as a general rule, however, fish which is
not wholesomely fresh should be rejected for the table.


50
[CHAP. II.
MODERN COOKERY.
prace all motion will instantly cease.” We quote Dr. Kitchener's
assertion on this subject; but we know that the mode of destruction
which he recommends is commonly practised by the London fishmon.
gers. Boiling water also will immediately cause vitality to cease, and
is perhaps the most humane and ready method of destroying the
fish.
Lobsters, prawns, and shrimps, are very stiff when freshly boiled,
and the tails turn strongly inwards; when these relax, and the fish are
soft and watery, they are stale; and the smell will detect their being
so, instantly, even if no other symptoms of it be remarked. If bougti
alive, lobsters should be chosen by their weight and “ liveliness." The
hen lobster is preferred for sauce and soups, on account of the coral;
but the flesh of the male is generally considered of finer flavour for
eating. The vivacity of their leaps will show when prawns and
shrimps are fresh from the sea.
Oysters should close forcibly on the knife when they are opened:
if the shells are apart ever so little they are losing their condition, and
when they remain far open the fish are dead, and fit only to be thrown
away. Small plump natives are very preferable to the larger and
coarser kinds.
TO CLEAN FISH.
Let this be always done with the most scrupulous nicety, for nothing
can more effcctually destroy the appetite, or disgrace the cook, than fish
sent to table imperfectly cleaned. Handle it lightly, and never throw
it roughly about, so as to bruise it; wash it well, but do not leave it
longer in the water than is necessary; for fish, like meat, loses its fla.
vour from being soaked. When the scales are to be removed, lay the
fish flat upon its side and hold it firmly with the left hand, while they
are scraped off with the right; turn it, and when both sides are done,
pour or pump sufficient water to float off all the loose scales; then
proceed to empty it; and do this without opening it more than is abso-
lutely necessary for the purposes of cleanliness. Be sure that not the
slightest particle of offensive matter be left in the inside ; wash out the
blood entirely, and scrape or brush it away if needful from the back-
bone. This may easily be accomplished without opening the fish so
much as to render it unsightly when it is sent to table. When the
scales are left on, the outside of the fish should be well washed and
wiped with a coarse cloth, drawn gently from the head to the tail. Eels
to be wholesome should be skinned, but they are sometimes dressed
without; boiling water should then be poured upon them, and they
should be left in it from five to ten minutes before they are cut up. The
dark skin of the sole must be stripped off when it is fried, but it
should be left on it like that of a turbot when the fish is boiled, and it
should be dished with the white side upwards. Whitings are skinned
before they are egged and crumbed for frying, but for boiling or
broiling, the skin is left on them. The gills of all fish (the red mul-
let sometimes excepted), must be taken out. The fins of a turbot,


CHAP. II.)
51
FISH.
which are considered a great delicacy, should be left untouched; but
those of most other fish must be cut off.
TO KEEP FISH,
We find that all the smaller kinds of fish keep best if emptied and
cleaned as soon as they are brought in, then wiped gently as dry as
they can be, and hung separately by the head on the hooks in the
ceiling of a cool larder, or in the open air when the weather will
allow. When there is danger of their being attacked by flies, a
wire safe, placed in a strong draught of air, is better adapted to the
purpose. Soles in winter will remain good for two days when thus
prepared ; and even whitings and mackerel may be kept so without
losing any of their excellence. Salt may be rubbed slightly over cod fish,
and well along the back-bone ; but it injures the flavour of salmon,
the inside of which may be rubbed with vinegar and peppered instead.
When excessive sultriness renders all of these modes unavailing, the
fish must at once be partially cooked to preserve it, but this should
be avoided if possible, as it is very rarely so good when this method is
resorted to.
TO SWEETEN TAINTED FISH.
The application of strong vinegar, or of acetic acid (which may be
purchased at the chemists), will effect this when the taint is but
slight. The vinegar should be used pure; and one wineglassful of
the acid should be mixed with two of water. Pour either of these
over the fish, and rub it on the parts which require it; then leave it
untouched for a few minutes, and wash it afterwards well, changing
the water two or three times. When the fish is in a worse state
the chloride of soda, from its powerful anti-putrescent properties,
will have more effect: it may be diluted, and applied in the same
manner as the acid.
Obs.-We have retained here the substance of the directions which
we had given in former editions of this book for rendering eatable fish
(and meat) tainted by being closely packed or overkept ; and it is
true that they may may be deprived of their offensive flavour and
odour by the application of strong acids and other disinfecting agents,
-Beaufoy's chloride of soda more especially—but we are very doubt-
ful whether they can by any process be converted into unquestionably
wholesome food, unless from some accidental circumstance the mere
surface should be affected, or some small portion of them, which
could be entirely cut away. We cannot, therefore, conscientiously
recommend the false economy of endangering health in preference to
rejecting them for the table altogether.
TIE MODE OF COOKING BEST ADAPTED TO DIFFERENT
KINDS OF FISH,
It is not possible, the reader will easily believe, to insert in a work
of the size of the present volume, all the modes of dressing the many


52
[CHAP. IL
MODERN COOKERY.
varieties of fish which are suited to our tables; we give, therefore,
only the more essential receipts in detail, and add to them such gen-
eral information as may, we trust, enable even a moderately in-
telligent cook to serve all that may usually be required, without
difficulty.
There is no better way of dressing a good turbot, brill, John Dory,
or cod's head and shoulders, than plain but careful boiling. Salmon
is excellent in almost every mode in which it can be cooked or used.
Boiled entire or in crimped slices; roasted in a cradle-spit or
Dutch oven ; baked ; fried in small collops ; collared ; potted;
dried and smoked ; pickled or soused (this is the coarsest and
least to be recommended process for it, of any); made into a
raised or common pie, or a potato-pasty ; served cold in or with sa-
voury jelly, or with a Mayonnaise sauce; or laid on potatoes and
baked, as in Ireland, it will be found Good.
Soles may be either boiled, or baked, or fried entire, or in fillets;
curried ; stewed in cream; or prepared by any of the directions
given for them in the body of this chapter.
Plaice, unless when in full season and very fresh, is apt to be
watery and insipid; but taken in its perfection and carefully cooked,
it is very sweet and delicate in flavour. If large, it may be boiled
with advantage either whole or in fillets; but to many tastes it is
very superior when filleted, dipped into egg and bread crumbs, and
fried. The flesh may also be curried ; or the plaice may be converted
into water-souchy, or soupe-maigre : when small it is often fried
whole.
Red mullet should always be baked, broiled, or roasted: it should
on no occasion be boiled.
Mackerel, for which many receipts will be found in this chapter,
when broiled quite whole, as we have directed, or freed from the bones,
divided, egged, crumbed, and fried, is infinitely superior to the same
fish cooked in the ordinary manner.
The whiting, when very fresh and in season, is always delicate and
good ; and of all fish is considered the best suited to invalids. Per-
haps quite the most wholesome mode of preparing it for them, is to
open it as little as possible when it is cleansed, to leave the skin on,
to dry the fish well, and to broil it gertly. It should be sent very
hot to table, and will require no sauce: twenty minutes will usually
be required to cook it, if of moderate size.
The haddock is sometimes very large. We have had it occasionally
from our southern coast between two and three feet in length, and it
was then remarkably good when simply boiled, even the day after it
was caught, the white curd between the fakes of flesh being like that
of extremely fresh salmon. As it is in full season in mid-winter, it can
be sent to a distance without injury. It is a very firm fish when
large and in season ; but, as purchased comnwonly at inland markets,
is often neither fine in size nor quality. One of the best modes of
corking it is, to take the flesh entire from thy bones, to divide it, dip


CHAP. II.]
53
FISH.
it into egg and bread-crumbs, mixed with savoury herbs fiuely
minced, and a seasoning of salt and spice, and to fry it like soles.
Other receipts for it will be found in the body of this chapter.
The flesh of the gurnard is exceedingly dry, and somewhat over
firm, it when filled with well-made forcemeat and gently baked, it
is much liked by many persons. At good tables, it is often served in
fillets fried or baked, and richly sauced : in common cookery it is
sometimes boiled.
Portions on of the skate, which is frequently of normous size, are
used as food : these are general cut out by the fisherman or by the
salesman, and are called the wings. The flesh is commonly served
here divided into long narrow fillets, called crimped skate, which are
rolled up and fastened, to preserve them in that form, while they are
cooked. In France, it is sent to table raised from the bones in large
portions, sauced with beurre-noir (burned or browned butter), and
strewed with well-crisped parsley.
Trout, which is a delicious fish when stewed in gravy, either quite
simply, or with the addition of wine and various condiments, and
which when of small size is very sweet and pleasant, eating nicely
fried, is poor and insipid when plainly boiled. **
Pike, of which the flesh is extremely dry, is we think better baked
than dressed in any other way; but it is often boiled.
Carp should either be stewed whole in the same manner as trout,
or served cut in slices, in a rich sauce called a matelote.
Smelts, sand-eels, and white-bait, are always fried ; the last two
sometimes after being dipped into batter.
THE BEST MODE OF BOILING FISH.
We have left unaltered in the following receipts the greater number
of our original directions for boiling fish, which were found when care-
fully followed, to produce a good result; but Baron Liebeg and other
scientific writers explain clearly the principles on which the nutriment
contained in fish or flesh is best retained by bringing the surface of
either when it is cooked, into immediate contact with boiling water;
and then (after a few minutes of ebullition) lowering the temperature
by the addition of cold water, and keeping it somewhat below the
boiling point for the remainder of the process. This method is at
least worthy of a trial, even if it be attended with a slight degree
more of trouble than those in general use; but when fish is served
with a variety of other dishes, the escape of some portion of its
nutritious juices is of less importance than when it forms the principal
food of any part of the community : in that case, the preservation of
* We have been informed by Mr. Howitt, the well-known author of several
highly interesting works on Germany, that this fish, when boiled the instant it
was caught-as he had eaten it often on the banks of some celebrated German
trout-streams-was most excellent, especially when it was of large size; but, as a
general rule, almost any other mode of cooking is to be recommended for it i
preference.


54
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. II.
all the nourishment which can be derived from it, is of real conse-
quence.
Directions. Throw into as much water as will cover the fish
entirely, a portion of the salt which is to be added in cooking it, and
when it boils quickly take off the scum, lay in the fish, and let it
boil moderately fast from three to ten minutes, according to its weight
and thickness; then pour in as much cold water as there is of the
boiling, take out a part, leaving sufficient only to keep the fish well
covered until it is ready to serve; add the remainder of the sal
draw the fish-kettle to the side of the fire, and keep the water jus!
simmering, and no more, until the fish is done.
The cook will understand that if a gallon of water be required to
cover the fish while it is cooking, that quantity must be made to boil ;
and that a gallon of cold must be added to it after the fish has been
laid in, and kept boiling for a very few minutes. For example :-A
large turbot or cod's head for ten minutes; a moderate-sized plaice
or John Dory, about five; and whitings, codlings, and other small
fish, from three to four minutes. That one gallon must then be
taken out of the kettle, which should immediately be drawn from the
fire, and placed at the side of the stove, that the fish may be gra-
dually heated through as the water is brought slowly to the point of
simmering.
The whole of the salt may be added after a portion of the water is
withdrawn, when the cook cannot entirely depend on her own judg.
ment for the precise quantity required.
Obs.- This is the best practical application that we can give of
Baron Liebeg's instructions.
BRINE FOR BOILING FISH.
Fish is exceedingly insipid if sufficient salt be not mixed with the
water in which it is boiled, but the precise quantity required for it will
depend, in some measure, upon the kind of salt which is used. Fine
common salt is that for which our directions are given; but when the
Maldon salt, which is very superior in strength, as well as in other
qualities, is substituted for it, a smaller quantity must be allowed
About four ounces to the gallon of water will be sufficient for small
fish in general ; an additional ounce, or rather more, will not be too
much for cod fish, lobsters, crabs, prawns, and shrimps; and salmon
will require eight ounces, as the brine for this fish should be strong:
the water should always be perfectly well skimmed from the moment
the scum begins to form upon the surface.
Mackerel, whiting, and other small fish, 4 ounces of salt to a gallon
of water. Cod fish, lobsters, crabs, prawns, shrimps, 5 to 6 oz.
Salmon, 8 ozs.
TO RENDER BOILED FISH FIRM..
Put a small bit of saltpetre with the salt
into the water in which it
is boiled : a quarter of an ounce will be sufficient for a gallon.


CHAP. u.]
55
FISH.
TO KNOW WHEN FISH IS SUFFICIENTLY BOILED, OR OTHERWISE
COOKED.
If the thickest part of the flesh separates easily from the back bone,
it is quite ready to serve, and should be withdrawn from the pan
without delay, as further cooking would be injurious to it. This test
can easily be applied to a fish which has been divided, but when it is
entire it should be lifted from the water when the flesh of the tail
breaks from the bone, and the eyes loosen from the head.
TO BAKE FISII.
A gentle oven may be used with advantage, for cooking almost
every kind of fish, as we have ascertained from our own observation;
but it must be subjected to a mild degree of heat only. This pene-
trates the flesh gradually, and converts it into wholesome succulent
food; whereas, a hot oven evaporates all the juices rapidly, and
renders the fish hard and dry. When small, they should be wrapped
in oiled or buttered paper before they are baked ; and when filleted,
or left in any other form, and placed in a deep dish with or without
any liquid before they are put into the oven, a buttered paper
should
still be laid closely upon them to keep the surface moist. Large pieces
of salmon, conger eel, and other fish of considerable size are some-
times in common cookery baked like meat over potatoes pared and
halved.
FAT FOR FRYING FISH.
This, whether it be butter, lard, or oil should always be excellent
in quality, for the finest fish will be rendered unfit for eating if it be
fried in fat that is rancid. When good, and used in sufficient quan-
tity, it will serve for the same purpose several times, if strained after
each frying, and put carefully away in a clean pan, provided always
that it has not been smoked nor burned in the using.
Lard renders fish more crisp than butter does; but fresh, pure
olive-oil (salad oil, as it is commonly called in England) is the best
ingredient which can be used for it, and as it will serve well for the
same purpose, many times in succession, if strained and carefully
stored as we have already stated, it is not in reality so expensive as
might be supposed for this mode of cooking. There should always
be an ample quantity of it (or of any other friture*) in the pan, as the
fish should be nearly covered with it, at the least; and it should cease
to bubble before either fish or meat is laid into it, or it will be too
much absorbed by the flesh, and will impart neither sufficient firme
ness, nor sufficient colour.
* The French term for fat of all kinds used in trying.


56
(CHAP. II.
MODERN COOKERY
TO KEEP FISII HOT FOR TABLE.
Never leave it in the water after it is done, but if it cannot be sent
to table as soon as it is ready to serve, lift it out, lay the fish-plate
into a large and very hot dish, and set it across the fish-kettle ; just
dip a clean cloth into the boiling water, and spread it upon the fish,
place a tin cover over it, and let it remain so until two or three
minutes before it is wanted, then remove the cloth, and put the fish
back into the kettle for an instant that it may be as hot as possible:
drain, dish, and serve it immediately: the water should be kept boil.
ing the whole time.
TO BOIL A TURBOT.
[In season all the year.)
A fine turbot, in full season, and
well served, is one of the most delicate
and delicious fish that can be sent to
table; but it is generally an expen.
sive dish, and its excellence so much
depends on the manner in which it is
dressed, that great care should be
taken to prepare it properly. After
it is emptied, wash the inside until it
Turbot.
is perfectly cleansed, and rub lightly a
little fine salt over the outside, as
this will render less washing and handling necessary, by at once tak-
ing off the slime; change the water several times, and when the fish
is as clean as it is possible to render it, draw a sharp knife through
the thickest part of the middle of the back nearly through to the
bone.* Never cut off the fins of a turbot when preparing it for table,
and remember that it is the dark side of the fish in which the incision
is to be made, to prevent the skin of the white side from cracking
Dissolve in a well-cleaned turbot or common fish-kettle, in as much
cold spring water as will cover the fish abundantly, salt
, in the pro-
portion of four ounces to the gallon; wipe the fish-plate with a clean
cloth, lay the turbot upon it with the white side upwards, place it in
the kettle, bring it slowly to boil, and clear off the scum thoroughly
as it rises. Let the water only just simmer until the fish is done,
then lift it out, drain, and slide it gently on to a very hot dish, with a
hot napkin neatly arranged over the drainer. Send it immediately to
table with rich lobster sauce and good plain melted butter. For a
simple dinner, anchovy or shrimp sauce is sometimes served with
a small turbot. Should there be any cracks in the skin of the fish,
This is the common practice even of the best cooks, but is very unscientific
gevertheless. When the incision is made really into the flesh the turbot should
be cooked altogether on Liebeg's plan, for which seo ' The Best Mode of Boiling
Mish," in the preceding pages.


CHAP. II57
11..
]
FISH.
branches of curled parsley may be laid lightly over them, or part of
the inside coral of a lobster, rubbed through a fine hair-sieve, may be
sprinkled over the fish; but it is better without either, when it is very
white and unbroken. When garnishings are in favour, a slice of
lemon and a tuft of curled parsley, may be placed alternately round
the edge of the dish. A border of fried smelts or of fillets of soles,
was formerly served round a turbot, and is always a very admissible
addition, though no longer so fashionable as it was. From fifteen to
twenty minutes will boil a moderate-sized fish, and from twenty to
thirty a large one; but as the same time will not always be sufficient
for a fish of the same weight, the cook must watch it attentively, and
lift it out as soon as its appearance denotes its being done.
Moderate sized turbot, 15 to 20 minutes. Large, 20 to 30 minutes.
Longer, if of unusual size
Obs.-A lemon gently squeezed, and rubbed over the fish, is
thought to preserve its whiteness. Some good cooks still put turbot
into boiling water, and to prevent its breaking, tie it with a cloth
tightly to the fish-plate.
TURBOT À LA CRÊME.
Raise carefully from the bones the flesh of a cold turbot, and clear
it from the dark skin; cut it into small squares, and put it into an
exceedingly clean stewpan or saucepan; then make and pour upon it
the cream sauce of Chapter V., or make as much as may be required
for the fish by the same receipt, with equal proportions of milk and
cream and a little additional flour. Heat the turbot slowly in the sauce,
but do not allow it to boil, and send it very hot to table. The white
skin of the fish is not usually added to this dish, and it is of better ap-
pearance without it; but for a family dinner, it may be left on the
flesh, when it is much liked. No acid must be stirred to the sauce
until the whole is ready for table.
TURBOT AU BECHAMEL, OR, IN BECHAMEL SAUCE.
Prepare the cold turbot as for the preceding receipt, but leave no
portion of the skin with it. Heat it in a rich bechamel sauce, and
serve it in a vol-au-vent, or in a deep dish with a border of fried bread
cut in an elegant form, and made with one dark and one light sippet,
placed alternately. The surface may be covered with a half-inch
layer of delicately fried bread-crumbs, perfectly well drained and
dried; or they may be spread over the fish without being fried,
then moistened with clarified butter, and browned with a sala-
mander.
For MOULD or Cold TURBOT WITH SURIMP CHATNEY, see Chapter
Vi.


58
(CHAP.
MODERN COOKERY.
TO BOIL A JOHN DORY.
[In best season from Michaelmas to Christmas, but good all the year.)
The John Dory, though of uninvit.
ing appearance, is considered by some
persons as the most delicious fish that
appears at table; in the general esti-
mation, however, it ranks next to the
turbot, but it is far less abundant is
our markets, and is not commonly
to be procured of sufficient size for
a handsome dish, except in some fev
parts of our coast which are cele-
John Dory.
brated for it. It may easily be
known by its yellow gray colour, its one large dark spot on either
side, the long filaments on the back, a general thickness of form, and
its very ugly head. It is dressed in the same manner, and served
usually with the same sauces as a turbot, but requires less time to
boil it. The fins should be cut off before it is cooked.

SMALL JOHN DORIES BAKED.
(Author's Receipt-good.)
We have found these fish when they were too small to be worth
cooking in the usual way, excellent when quite simply baked in the
following manner, the flesh being remarkably sweet and tender, much
more so than it becomes by frying or broiling. After they have
been cleaned, dry them in a cloth, season the insides slightly with
fine salt, dredge a little flour on the fish, and stick a few very small
bits of butter on them, but only just sufficient to prevent their
becoming dry in the oven; lay them singly on a flat dish, and bake
them very gently from fourteen to sixteen minutes. Serve them
with the same sauce as baked soles.
When extremely fresh, as it usually is in the markets of the coast,
fish thus simply dressed au four is preferable to that more elaborately
prepared by adding various condiments to it after it is placed in a
deep dish, and covering it with a thick layer of bread crumbs, mois-
tened with clarified butter.
The appearance of the John Dories is improved by taking off the
heads, and cutting away not only the fins but the filaments of the
back.
TO BOIL A BRILL.
A fresh and full-sized brill always ranks high in the list of fish, as
it is of good appearance, and the Hesh is sweet and delicate. It re-
quires less cooking than the turbot, even when it is of equal size;
but otherwise may be dressed and served in a similar manner. It has
not the same rich glutinous skin as that fisk, nor are the fins esteemed.


CBAP. 11.]
FISH.
59
They must be cut off when the brill is cleaned ; and it may be put
into nearly boiling water, unless it be very large. Simmer it gently,
and drain it well upon the fish-plate when it is lifted out; dish it on a
napkin, and send lobster, anchovy, crab, or shrimp sauce to table
with it. Lobster coral, rubbed through a sieve, is commonly
sprinkled over it for a formal dinner. The most usual garnish for
boiled flat fish is curled parsley placed round it in light tufts; how
far it is appropriate, individual taste must decide.
Brill, moderate-sized, about 20 minutes ; large, 30 minutes.
Obs.—The precise time which a fish will require to be boiled cannot
be given: it must be watched, and not allowed to remain in the water
after it begins to crack.
TO BOIL SALMON.
[In full season from May to August: may be had much earlier, but is scarce
and dear.]
To preserve the fine colour of this fish, and to set the curd when it
'is quite freshly caught, it is usual to put it into boiling, instead of into
cold water. Scale, empty, and wash it with the greatest nicety, and
be especially careful to cleanse all the blood from the inside. Stir
into the fish-kettle eight ounces of common salt to the gallon of water,
let it boil quickly for a minute or two, take off all the scum, put in
the salmon and boil it moderately fast, if it be small, but more gently
should it be very thick ; and assure yourself that it is quite sufficiently
done before it is sent to table, for nothing can be more distasteful,
even to the eye, than fish which is under dressed.
From two to three pounds of the thick part of a fine salmon will
require half an hour to boil it, but eight or ten pounds will be done
enough in little more than double that time; less in proportion to its
weight should be allowed for a small fish, or for the thin end of a
large one. Do not allow the salmon to remain in the water after it is
ready to serve, or both flavour and appearance will be injured.
Dish it on a hot napkin, and send dressed cucumber, and anchovy,
shrimp, or lobster sauce, and a tureen of plain melted butter to table
with it.
To each gallon water, 8 oz. salt. Salmon, 2 to 3 lbs. (thick),
4 hour; 8 to 10 lbs., 11 hour; small, or thin fish, less time.
SALMON À LA GENEVESE.
A fashionable mode of serving salmon at the present day is to
divide the larger portion of the body into three equal parts ; to boil
them in water, or in a marinade; and to serve them dished in a line,
but not close together, and covered with a rich Genevese sauce (for
which see Chapter V.) It appears to us that the skin should be
stripped from any fish over which the sauce is poured, but in this
case it is not customary.


60
[CHAP. IL
MODERN COOKERY.
CRIMPED SALMON.
Cut into slices an inch and a half, or two inches thick, the body of
a salmon quite newly caught; throw them into strong salt and water
as they are done, but do not let them soak in it; wash them well,
lay them on a tish-plate, and put them into fast boiling water, salted
and well skimmed. In from ten to fifteen minutes they will be done.
Dish them on a napkin, and send them very hot to table with
lobster sauce, and plain melted butter; or with the caper fish-sauce
of Chapter V. The water should be salted as for salmon boiled in
the ordinary way, and the scum should be cleared off with great care
after the fish is in.
In boiling water, 10 to 15 minutes.
SALMON À LA ST. MARCEL.
Separate some cold boiled salmon into flakes, and free them en-
tirely from the skin; break the bones, and boil them in a pint of
water for half an hour. Strain off the liquor, put it into a clean
saucepan and stir into it by degrees when it begins to boil quickly,
two ounces of butter mixed with a large teaspoonful of flour, and
when the whole has boiled for two or three minutes add a teaspoonful
of essence of anchovies, one of good mushroom catsup, half as much
lemon-juice or chili vinegar, a half saltspoonful of pounded mace,
some cayenne, and a very little salt. Shell from half to a whole pint
of shrimps, add them to the salmon, and heat the fish very slowly
in the sauce by the side of the fire, but do not allow it boil. When
it is very hot, dish and send it quickly to table. French cooks, when
they re-dress fish or meat of any kind, prepare the flesh with great
nicety, and then put it into a stewpan, and pour the sauce upon it,
which is, we think, better than the more usual English mode of
laying it into the boiling sauce. The cold salmon may also be re-
heated in the cream sauce of Chapter V., or in the Mâitre d'Hotel
sauce which follows it; and will be found excellent with either.
This receipt is for a moderate sized dish.
SALMON BAKED OVER MASHED POTATOES.
We are informed by a person who has been a resident in Ireland,
that the middle of a salmon is there often baked over mashed
potatoes, from which it is raised by means of a wire stand, as meat is
in England. We have not been able to have it tried, but an in-
genious cook will be at no loss for the proper method of preparing,
and the time of cooking it. The potatoes are sometimes merely pared
and halved; the fish is then laid upon them.
SALMON PUDDING, TO BE SERVED NOT OF
(A Scotch Receipt-Gond.)
Pound or chop small, or rub through a sieve one pound of cold
COLD.


CHAP. II.]
61
FISH.
boiled salmon freed entirely from bone and skin; and blend it
lightly but thoroughly with half a pound of fine bread-crumbs, a
teaspoonful of essence of anchovies, a quarter of a pint of cream, a
seasoning of fine salt and cayenne, and four well whisked eggs.
Press the mixture closely and evenly into a deep dish or mould,
buttered in every part, and bake it for one hour in a moderate
oven.
Salmon, 1 lb.; bread-crumbs, } lb.: essence of anchovies, 1 tea-
spoonfuì; cream, & pint; eggs, 4; salt and cayenne; baked i hour
TO BUIL COD FISH.
[In highest season from October to the beginning of February; in perfection
about Christmas.]
When this fish is large the head and shoulders are sufficient for a
handsome dish, and they contain all the choicer portion of it, though
not so much substantial eating as the middle of the body, which, in
consequence, is generally preferred to them by the frugal house-
keeper. Wash the fish, and cleanse the inside, and the back-bone in
particular, with the most scrupulous care; lay it into the fish-kettle
and cover it well with cold water mixed with five ounces of salt to
the gallon, and about a quarter of an ounce of saltpetre to the whole.
Place it over a moderate fire, clear off the scum perfectly, and let the
fish boil gently until it is done. Drain it well* and dish it carefully
upon a very hot napkin with the liver and the roe as a garnish. To
these are usually added tufts of lightly scraped horse-radish round
the edge. Serve well-made oyster sauce and plain melted butter
with it; or anchovy sauce, when oysters cannot be procured. The
cream sauce of Chapter V., is also an appropriate one for this fish.
Moderate size, 20 to 30 minutes. Large, i to å hour.
SLICES OF COD FISH FRIED.
Cut the middle or tail of the fish into slices nearly an inch thick,
season them with salt and white pepper or cayenne, flour them well,
and fry them of a clear equal brown on both sides ; drain them on a
sieve before the fire, and serve them on a well-heated napkin, with
plenty of crisped parsley round them. Or, dip them into beaten
egg, and then into fine crumbs mixed with a seasoning of salt and
pepper (some cooks add one of minced herbs also), before they are
Fried. Send melted butter and anchovy sauce to table with them.
8 to 12 minutes.
Obs. This is a much better way of dressing the thin part of the
fish than boiling it, and as it is generally cheap, it makes thus an
economical, as well as a very good dish : if the slices are liſted from
the frying-pan into a good curried gravy, and left in it by the side
This should be done by setting the fish-plate across the kettle for a minuta
or two.


02
[CHAP. O.
MODERN COOKERY.
of the fire for a few minutes before they are sent to table, they will
be found excellent.
STEWED COD.
Put into boiling water, salted as usual, about three pounds of fresh
cod fish cut into slices an inch and a half thick, and boil them
gently for five minutes; lift them out, and let them drain. Hare
ready heated in a wide stewpan nearly a pint of veal gravy or of
very good broth, lay in the fish, and stew it for five minutes, thea
add four tablespoonsful of extremely fine bread-crumbs, and simmer
it for three minutes longer. Stir well into the sauce a large tea.
spoonful of arrow-root quite free from lumps, a fourth part as much
of mace, something less of cayenne, and a tablespoonful of essence of
anchovies, mixed with a glass of white wine and a dessertspoonful of
lemon juice. Boil the whole for a couple of minutes, lift out the fish
carefully with a slice, pour the sauce over, and serve it quickly.
Cod fish, 3 lbs.: boiled 5 minutes. Gravy, or strong broth, nearly
1 pint: 5 minutes. Bread-crumbs, 4 tablespoonsful: 3 minute.
Arrow-root, 1 large teaspoonful; mace, 1 teaspoonful; less of
cayenne; essence of anchovies, 1 tablespoonful; lemon-juice, 1
dessertspoonful; sherry or Maidera, 1 wineglassful : 2 minutes.
Obs.-A dozen or two of oysters, bearded, and added with their
strained liquor to this dish two or three minutes before it is served,
will to many tastes vary it very agreeably.
STEWED COD FISH, IN BROWN SAUCE.
Slice the fish, take off the skin, four it well, and fry it quickly a
fine brown; lift it out and drain it on the back of a sieve, arrange
it in a clean stewpan, and pour in as much good boiling brown gravy
as will nearly cover it; add from one to two glasses of port wine,
or rather more of claret, a dessertspoonful of Chili vinegar, or the
juice of half a lemon, and som cayenne, with as much salt as may be
needed. Stew the fish very softly until it just begins to break, lift it
carefully with a slice into a very hot dish, stir into the gravy an
ounce and a half of butter smoothly kneaded with a large teaspoonful
of flour, and a little pounded mace, give the sauce a minute's boil,
pour it over the fish, and serve it immediately. The wine may be
omitted, good shin of beef stock substituted for the gravy, and a tea-
spoonful of soy, one of essence of anchovies, and two tablespoonsful
of Harvey's sauce added to flavour it.
TO BOIL SALT FISI.
When very salt and dry, this must be long soaked before it is
boiled, but it is generally supplied by the fishmongers nearly or quite
ready to dress. When it is not so, lay it for a night into a large
quantity of cold water, then let it lie exposed to the air for some time,
then again put it into water, and continue thus until it is well


CHAP. II.)
63
FISH.
softened Brush it very clean, wash it thoroughly, and put it with
abuudance of cold water into the fish kettle, place it near the fire
and let it heat very slowly indeed. Keep it just on the point of
simmering, without allowing it ever to boil (which would render it
hard), from three quarters of an hour to a full hour, according to its
weight; should it be quite small and thin, less time will be sufficient for
it; but by following these directions, the fish will be almost as good
as if it were fresh. The scum should be cleared off with great care
from the beginning. Egg sauce and boiled parsneps are the usual
acccompaniment to salt fish, which should be dished upon a hot
napkin, and which is sometimes also thickly strewed with chopped
eggs.
SALT FISH, À LA MÂITRE D’HOTEL.
Boil the fish by the foregoing receipt, or take the remains of that
which has been served at table, flake it off clear from the bones, and
strip away every morsel of the skin; then lay it into a very clean
saucepan or stewpan, and pour upon it the sharp Mâitre d'Hotel
sauce of Chapter IV.; or dissolve gently two or three ounces of
butter with four or five spoonsful of water, and a half-teaspoonful of
flour; add some pepper or cayenne, very little salt, and a dessert-
spoonful or more of minced parsley. Heat the fish slowly quite
through in either of these sauces, and toss or stir it until the whole
is well mixed; if the second be used, add the juice of half a lemon,
or a small quantity of Chili vinegar just before it is taken from the
fire. The fish thus prepared may be served in a deep dish, with a
border of mashed parsneps or potatoes.
TO BOIL CODS' SOUNDS.
Should they be highly salted, soak them for a night, and on the
following day rub off entirely the discoloured skin ; wash them well,
lay them into plenty of cold milk and water, and boil them gently
from thirty to forty minutes, or longer should they not be quite
tender. Clear off the scum as it rises with great care, or it will sink
and adhere to the sounds, of which the appearance will then be
spoiled. Drain them well, dish them on a napkin, and send egg
sauce and plain melted butter to table with them.
TO FRY CODS' SOUNDS IN BATTER.
Boil them as directed above until they are nearly done, then lift them
out, lay them on to a drainer, and let them remain till they are cold;
cut them across in strips of an inch deep, curl them round, dip them
into a good French or English batter, fry them of a fine pale brown,
drain and dry them well, dish them on a hot napkin, and garnish
them with crisped parsley.


64
CHAP. IL
MODERN COOKERY.
TO FRY SOLES.
[ln season all the year.]
All fish to fry well must be not only fresh but perfectly free from
moisture, particularly when they are to be dressed with egg and
bread-crumbs, as these will not otherwise adhere to them. Empty,
skin, and wash the soles with extreme nicety, from one to two hours
before they are wanted for table; and after having cleansed and wiped
them very dry both inside and out, replace the roes, fold and pres
them gently in a soft clean cloth, and leave them wrapped in it until
it is time to fry them; or suspend them singly upon hooks in a current
of cool air, which is, perhaps, the better method of proceeding when
it can be done conveniently. Cover them equally in every part, first
with some beaten egg, and then with fine dry crumbs of bread, mixed
with a very little flour to make them adhere with more certainty: a
small teaspoonful will be sufficient for two large soles. Melt in a
large and exceedingly clean frying pan over a brisk and clear fire, as
much very pure-flavoured lard as will float the fish, and let it be suth-
ciently hot before they are laid in to brown them quickly; for if
this be neglected it will be impossible to render them crisp or dry.
When the fat ceases to bubble, throw in a small bit of bread, and
if it takes a good colour immediately the soles may be put in without
delay. An experienced cook will know, without this test, when it is
at the proper point; but the learner will do better to avail herself of
it until practice and observation shall have rendered it unnecessary to
her. Before the fish are laid into the pan, take them by the head
and shake the loose crumbs from them. When they are firm, and
of a fine amber-colour on one side, turn them with care, passing a
slice under them and a fork through the heads, and brown them on
the other. Lift them out, and either dry them well on a soft cloth
laid upon a sieve reversed, before the fire, turning them often, or
press them lightly in hot white blotting paper. Dish them on a
drainer covered with a hot napkin and send them to table without
delay with shrimp or anchovy sauce, and plain melted butter.
Very small soles will be done in six minutes, and large ones in
about ten. They may be floured and fried, without being egged and
crumbed, but this is not a very usual mode of serving them.
Small soles, 6 minutes; large, about 10 minutes.
TO BOIL SOLES.
The flesh of a fine fresh sole, when boiled with care, is remarkably
sweet and delicate : if very large it may be dressed and served as turboi,
to which it will be found little inferior in flavour. Empty it, take out
the gills, cut off the fins, and cleanse and wash it with great nicety,
but do not skin it; then either lay it into cold water in which the usual
proportion of salt has been dissolved, and heat it rather slowly, and
then simmer it from five to ten minutes, according to its size; or boil


CHAP. II.]
65
FISH.
it in the manner directed in the first pages of this chapter. Drain it
well on the fish-plate as it is lifted out, and dish it on a napkin, the
white side upwards, and serve it quickly with anchovy, shrimp, or
lobster sauce. It may also be sent to table thickly covered with the
Cream Fish Sauce, Caper Fish Sauce, or Lady's Sauce, of Chapter VI.;
though this is a mode of service less to be recommended, as the sauce
cools more speedily when spread over the surface of the fish: it is,
however, the continental fashion, and will therefore find more favour
with some persons.
Very large sole, 5 to 10 minutes ; moderate sized, 4 to 6
minutes.
FILLETS OF SOLES,
The word fillet, whether applied to fish, poultry, game, or butchers
meat, means simply the flesh of either (or of certain portions of it),
raised clear from the bones in a handsome form, and divided or not,
as the manner in which it is to be served may require. It is an
elegant mode of dressing various kinds of fish, and even those which
are not the most highly esteemed, afford an excellent dish when thus
prepared. Soles to be filletted with advantage should be large; the
flesh may then be divided down the middle of the back, next, sepa-
rated from the fins, and with a very sharp knife raised clear from the
bones.* When thus prepared, the fillets may be divided, trimmed
into a good form, egged, covered with fine crumbs, fried in the usual
way, and served with the same sauces as the whole fish ; or each fillet
may be rolled up, in its entire length, if very small, or after being
once divided if large, and fastened with a slight twine, or a short thin
skewer; then egged, crumbed, and fried in plenty of boiling lard; or
merely well floured and fried from eight to ten minutes. When the
fish are not very large, they are sometimes boned without being
parted in the middle, and each side is rolled from the tail to the head,
after being first spread with pounded shrimps mixed with a third of
their volume of butter, a few bread-crumbs, and a high seasoning of
mace and cayenne; or with pounded lobster mixed with a large por-
tion of the coral, and the same seasoning, and proportion of butter as
the shrimps; then laid into a dish, with the ingredients directed for
the soles au plat; well covered with crumbs of bread and clarified
butter, and baked from twelve to sixteen minutes, or until the crumbs
are coloured to a fine brown in a moderate oven.
The fillets may likewise be cut into small strips or squares of uni-
form size, lightly dredged with pepper or cayenne, salt and flour, and
fried in butter over a brisk fire; then well drained, and sauced with
a good béchamel, flavoured with a teaspoonful of minced parsley.
• A celebrated French cook gives the following instructions for raising these
fillets :-“Take them up by ranning your knife first between the bones and the
Hesh, then between the skin and the fillet; by leaning pretty hard on the table
they will come off very neatly."


66
[CHAP. IL
MODERN COOKERY.
SOLES AU PLAT.
Clarify from two to three ounces of fresh butter, and pour it into
the dish in which the fish are to be served ; add to it a little salt, some
cayenne, a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies, and from one to two
glasses of sherry, or of any other dry white wine ; lay in a couple of
fine soles which have been well cleaned and wiped very dry, stres
over them a thick layer of fine bread-crumbs, moisten them with
clarified butter, set the dish into a moderate oven, and bake the fish
for a quarter of an hour. A layer of shrimps placed between the
soles is a great improvement; and we would also recommend a little
lemon-juice to be mixed with the sauce.
Baked, 15 minutes.
Obs.- The soles are, we think, better without the wine in this
receipt. They require but a small portion of liquid, which might be
supplied by a little additional butter, a spoonful of water or pale
gravy, the lemon-juice, and store-sauce. Minced parsley may be
mixed with the bread-crumbs when it is liked.
BAKED SOLES.
(A simple but excellent Receipt.)
Fresh large soles, dressed in the following manner, are remarkably
tender and delicate eating ; much more so than those which are fried.
After the fish has been skinned and cleansed in the usual way, wipe it
dry, and let it remain for an hour or more, if time will permit, closely
folded in a clean cloth ; then mix with a slightly beaten egg about an
ounce of butter, just liquefied but not heated at the mouth of the
oven, or before the fire; brush the fish in every part with this mix.
ture, and cover it with very fine dry bread-crumbs, seasoned with s
little salt, cayenne, pounded mace, and nutmeg. Pour a teaspoonfal
or two of liquid butter into a flat dish which will contain the fish
well ; lay it in, sprinkle it with a little more butter, press the bread-
crumbs lightly on it with a broad-bladed knife, and bake it in a
moderate oven for about twenty minutes. If two or more soles are
required for table at the same time, they should be placed separately,
quite flat, in a large dish, or each fish should be laid on a dish by
itself. On our first essay of this receipt, the fish dressed by it (it was
baked for twenty-five minutes in a very slack iron oven) proved in-
finitely nicer than one of the same size which was fried, and served
with it. The difference between them was very marked, especially
as regarded the exceeding tenderness of the flesh of that which was
baked ; its appearance, however, would have been somewhat im-
proved by a rather quicker oven. When ready to serve, it should
be gently glided on to the dish in which it is to be sent to table.
About three ounces of bread-crumbs, and two and a half of butter,
will be sufficient for a large pair of soles. They will be more per-


CHAP. 1.]
67
FISII.
fectly encrusted with the bread if dipped into, or sprinkled with it a
second time, after the first coating has been well moistened with the
butter.
SOLES STEWED IN CREAM,
Prepare some very fresh middling sized soles with exceeding nicety,
put them into boiling water slightly salted, and simmer them for two
minutes only ; liſt them out, and let them drain; lay them into a
wide stewpan with as much sweet rich cream as will nearly cover
them; add a good seasoning of pounded mace, cayenne, and salt ; stew
the fish softly from six to ten minutes, or until the flesh parts readily
from the bones ; dish them, stir the juice of half a lemon to the
sauce, pour it over the soles, and send them immediately to table.
Some lemon-rind may be boiled in the cream, if approved; and a
small teaspoonful of arrow-root, very smoothly mixed with a little
milk, may be stirred to the sauce (should it require thickening) before
the lemon-juice is added. Turbot and brill also may be dressed by
this receipt, time proportioned to their size being of course allowed
for them.
Soles, 3 or 4: boiled in water 2 minutes. Cream, to whole
pint; salt, mace, cayenne : fish stewed, 6 to 10 minutes. Juice of
half a lemon.
Obs.-In Cornwall the fish is laid at once into thick clotted cream,
and stewed entirely in it; but this method gives to the sauce, which
ought to be extremely delicate, a coarse fishy flavour which the pre-
vious boil in water prevents.
At Penzance, grey mullet, after being scaled, are divided in the
middle, just covered with cold water, and softly boiled, with the ad-
dition of branches of parsley, pepper and salt, until the flesh of the
back parts easily from the bone; clotted cream, minced parsley, and
lemon-juice are then added to the sauce, and the mullets are dished
with the heads and tails laid even to the thick parts of the back,
where the fish were cut asunder. Hake, too, is there divided at every
joint (having previously been scaled), dipped into egg, then thickly
covered with fine bread-crumbs mixed with plenty of minced parsley,
and fried a fine brown; or, the back-bone being previously taker
out, the fish is sliced into cutlets, and then fried.
TO FRY WHITINGS.
[In full season from Michaelmas to beginning of February.]
Clean, skin, and dry them thoroughly in a cloth, fasten their tails
to their mouths, brush slightly beaten eggs equally over them, and
cover them with the finest bread-crumbs, mixed with a little flour ;
fry them a clear golden brown in plenty of boiling lard, drain and
dry them well, dish them on a hot napkin, and serve them with good
melted butter, and the sauce cruets, or with well made shrimp or an-


68
[CHAP. I.
MODERN COOKERY.
chovy sauce. A small half-teaspoonful of salt should be beaten up
with the eggs used in preparing the whitings: two will be sufficient
for half a dozen fish.
5 to 8 minutes, according to their size.
FILLETS OF WHITINGS.
Empty and wash thoroughly, but do not skin the fish. Take of
the flesh on both sides close to the bones, passing the knife from the
tail to the head ; divide each side in two, trim the fillets into good
shape, and fold them in a cloth, that the moisture may be well
absorbed from them; dip them into, or draw them through, soru
heaten egg, then dip them into fine crumbs mixed with a small par.
tion of four, and fry them a fine light brown in lard or clarited
butter ; drain them well, press them in white blotting-paper, čish
them one over the other in a circle, and send the usual sauce to table
with them. The fillets may also be broiled after being dipped in
eggs seasoned with salt and pepper, then into crumbs of bread, best
into clarified butter, and a second time into the bread-crumbs (or, to
shorten the process, a portion of clarified butter may be mixed with
the eggs at first), and served with good melted butter, or thickened
veal gravy seasoned with cayenne, lemon-juice, and chopped parsler.
Five minutes will fry the fillets, even when very large : rather
more time will be required to broil them.
TO BOIL WHITINGS.
(French Receipt.)
Having scraped, cleansed, and wiped them, lay them on a fish-
plate, and put them into water at the point of boiling; throw in :
handful of salt, two bay leaves, and plenty of parsley well washed
and tied together; let the fish just simmer from five to ten minutes
and watch them closely that they may not be over-done. Serve
parsley and butter with them, and use in making it the liquor i
which the whitings have been boiled.
Just simmered from 5 to 10 minutes.
BAKED WHITINGS À LA FRANÇAISE.
Proceed with these exactly as with the soles au plat of this chapter;
or, pour a little clarified butter into a deep dish, and strew it ratber
thickly with finely-minced mushrooms mixed with a teaspoonful of
parsley, and (when the flavour is liked, and considered appropriate)
with an eschalot or two, or the white part of a few green onions, also
chopped very small. On these place the fish after they have been
scaled, emptied, thoroughly washed, and wiped dry: season them well
with salt and white pepper, or cayenne; sprinkle more of the herbs
apon them; pour gently from one to two glasses of light white wine
into the dish, corer the whitings with a thick layer of fine crumbs of


CHAP. A.]
69
FISH.
bread, sprinkle these plentifully with clarified butter, and bake the
fish from fifteen to twenty minutes. Send a cut lemon only to table
with them. When the wine is not liked, a few spoonsful of pale veal
gravy can be used instead ; or a larger quantity of clarifiea butter,
with a tablespoonful of water, a teaspoonful of lemon-pickle and of
mushroom catsup, and a few drops of soy.
15 to 20 minutes.
TO BOIL MACKEREL.
Mackerel.
[In full season in May, June, and July; may be had also in early spring. 1
Open the fish sufficiently to admit
of the insides being perfectly cleansed,
but not more than is necessary for
this purpose ; empty them with care,
lay the roes apart, and wash both
them and the mackerel delicately
clean. It is customary now to lay these, and the greater number of
other fish as well, into cold water when they are to be boiled; for-
merly all were plunged at once into fast-boiling water. For such as
are small and delicate, it should be hot; they should be brought
gently to boil, and simmered until they are done; the scum should
be cleared off as it rises, and the usual proportion of salt stirred into
the water before the mackerel are put in. The roes are commonly
replaced in the fish ; but as they sometimes require more boiling than
the mackerel themselves, it is better, when they are very large, to
lay them upon the fish-plate by their sides. From fifteen to twenty
minutes will generally be sufficient to boil a full-sized mackerel
some will be done in less time ; but they must be watched, and lifted
out as soon as the tails split, and the eyes are starting.
Dish them on a napkin, and send fennel or gooseberry sauce to
table with them, and plain melted butter also.
Small mackerel, 10 to 15 minutes ; large, 15 to 20 minutes.
TO BAKE MACKEREL.
After they have been cleaned and well washed, wipe them very
dry, fill the insides with the forcemeat, No. 1 of Chapter VIII., sew
them up, arrange them, with the roes, closely together in a coarse
baking-dish, flour them lightly, strew a little fine salt over, and stick
bits of butter upon them; or pour some equally over them, after
having just dissolved it in a small saucepan. Half an hour in a mo-
derate oven will bake them. Oyster forcemeat is always appropriate
for any kind of fish which is in season while the oysters are so ; but the
mackerel are commonly served, and are very good with that which we
have named. Lift them carefully into a hot dish after they are taken
from the oven, and send melted butter and a cut lemon to table with
them.
hour


70
[CHAP. II.
MODERN COOKERY.
BAKED MACKEREL, OR WHITINGS.
(Cinderella's Receipt-good.)
The fish for this receipt should be opened only so much as will
permit of their being emptied and perfectly cleansed. Wash and
wipe them dry, then fold them in a soft cloth, and let them remain in
it awhile. Replace the roes, and put the fish into a baking-dish of
suitable size, with a tablespoonful of wine, a few drops of chili vine
gar, a little salt and cayenne, and about half an ounce of butter, well-
blended with a saltspoonful of flour, for each fish. They must be
turned round with the heads and tails towards each other, that they
may lie compactly in the dish, and the backs should be placed down.
wards, that the sauce may surround the thickest part of the flesh.
Lay two buttered papers over, and press them down upon them; set
the dish into a gentle oven for twenty minutes, take off the papers,
and send the fish to table in their sauce.
A few minutes more of time must be allowed for mackerel when it
is large, should the oven be very slow.
Full-sized whitings are excellent thus dressed if carefully managed,
and many eaters would infinitely prefer mackerel so prepared, to
boiled ones. The writer has port-wine always used for the sauce, to
which a rather full seasoning of chili vinegar, cayenne, and pounded
mace, is added ; but sherry, Bucellas, or any other dry wine, can be
used instead ; and the various condiments added to it, can be varied
to the taste. This receipt is a very convenient one, as it is prepared
with little trouble, and a stove-oven, if the heat be properly mode-
rated, will answer for the baking. It is an advantage to take off
the heads of the fish before they are dressed, and they may then be
entirely emptied without being opened. When preferred so, they
can be re-dished for table, and the sauce poured over them.
Obs.-The dish in which they are baked, should be buttered before
they are laid in.
FRIED MACKEREL.
(Common French Receipt.)
After the fish have been emptied and washed extremely clean, cut
off the heads and tails, split the bodies quite open, and take out the
backbones (we recommend in preference that the flesh should be
taken off the bones as in the following receipt), wipe the mackerel
very dry, dust fine salt and pepper (or cayenne) over them, flour
them well, fry them a fine brown in boiling lard, drain them tho-
roughly, and serve them with the following sauce :-Dissolve in a
small saucepan an ounce and a half of butter smoothly mixed with a
teaspoonful of flour, some salt, pepper, or cayenne ; shake these
over a gentle fire until they are lightly coloured, then add by slow
degrees nearly half a pint of good broth or gravy, and the juice of
one large lemon; boil the sauce for a couple of minutes, and serve it


CRAP. II.]
71
FISH.
very hot. Or, instead of this, add a large teaspoonful of strong made
mustard, and a dessertspoonful of chili vinegar, to some thick melted
butter, and serve it with the fish. A spoonful of Harvey's sauce or
of mushroom catsup can be mixed with this last at pleasure.
FILLETS OF MACKEREL.
(Fried or Broiled.)
Take off the flesh quite whole on either side, from three fine
mackerel, which have been opened and properly cleaned ; let it be
entirely free from bone, dry it well in a cloth, then divide each part
in two, and dip them into the beaten yolks of a couple of eggs, sea-
soned with salt and white pepper, or cayenne; cover them equally with
fine dry crumbs of bread, and fry them like soles ; or dip them into
clarified butter, and then again into the crumbs, and broil them over
a very clear fire of a fine brown. Dish them in a circle one over the
other, and send them to table with the Mâitre d'Hotel sauce of
Chapter V., or with the one which follows it. The French
pour
the
sauce into the centre of the dish ; but for broiled fillets this is not so
well, we think, as serving it in a tureen. The roes of the fish, after
being well washed and soaked, may be dressed with them, or they
may be made into patties. Minced parsley can be mixed with the
bread crumbs when it is liked.
BOILED FILLETS OF MACKEREL.
After having taken off and divided the flesh of the fish, as above,
place it flat in one layer in a wide stewpan or saucepan, and just cover
the fillets with cold water ; throw in a teaspoonful of salt, and two or
three small sprigs of parsley ; bring the mackerel slowly to a boil,
clear off the scum with care, and after two or three minutes of slow
simmering try the fillets with a fork; if the thick part divides with a
touch, they are done. Lift them out cautiously with a slice; drain,
and serve them very hot with good parsley and butter; or strip off
the skin quickly, and pour a Mâitre d' Hotel sauce over them.
MACKEREL BROILED WHOLE.
(An ercellent Receipt.)
Empty and cleanse perfectly a fine and very fresh mackerel, but
without opening it more than is needful; dry it well, either in a cloth
or by hanging it in a cool air until it is stiff ; make with a sharp
knife a deep incision the whole length of the fish on either side of the
back bone, and about half an inch from it, and with a feather put in
a little cayenne and fine salt, mixed with a few drops of good salad
oil or clarified butter. Lay the mackerel over a moderate fire upon
3 well-heated gridiron which has been rubbed with suet ; loosen it
gently should it stick, which it will do unless often moved ; and when
it is equally done on both sides, turn the back to the fire. About


72
(CEAP. II.
MODERN COOKERY.
half an hour will broil it well. If a sheet of thickly-buttered writiaz.
paper be folded round it, and just twisted at the ends before it is laid
on the gridiron, it will be finer eating than if exposed to the fire; bat
sometimes when this is done, the skin will adhere to the paper, and
be drawn off with it, which injures its appearance. A cold Matro
ď Hlotel sauce (see Chapter V.), may be put into the back before it is
sent to table. This is one of the very best modes of dressing a
mackerel, which in flavour is quite a different fish when thus pre-
pared to one which is simply boiled. A drop of oil is sometimes
passed over the skin to prevent its sticking to the iron. It may be
laid to the fire after having been merely cut as we have directed, whea
it is preferred so.
30 minutes; 25 if small.
MACKEREL STEWED WITII WINE.
(Very good)
Work very smoothly together a large teaspoonful of flour with two
ounces of butter, put them into a stewpan, and stir or shake them
round over the fire until the butter is dissolved; add a quarter of a
teaspoonful of mace, twice as much salt, and some cayenne ; pour in
by slow degrees three glasses of claret; and when the sauce boils, lay
in a couple of fine mackerel well cleaned, and wiped quite dry; stew
them very softly from fifteen to twenty minutes, and turn them when
half done ; lift them out, and dish them carefully; stir a teaspoonful
of made mustard to the sauce, give it a boil, and pour it over the
fish. When more convenient, substitute port wine and a little
lemon-juice, for the claret.
Mackerel, 2; flour, 1 teaspoonful; butter, 2 oz. ; seasoning of salt,
mace, and cayenne; claret, 3 wine-glassesful; made mustard, 1 tea-
spoonful: 15 to 20 minutes.
FILLETS OF MACKEREL STEWED IN WINE.
(Ercellent.)
Raise the flesh entire from the bones on either side of the mackerel,
and divide it once, if the fish be small, but cut the whole into six
parts of equal size should they be large. Mix with flour, and dissolve
the butter as in the preceding receipt; and when it has simmered for
a minute, throw in the spice, a little salt, and the thinly pared rind
of half a small fresh lemon, lay in the fillets of fish, shake them over
a gentle fire from four to five minutes, and turn them once in the
time; then pour to them in small portions a couple of large wine-
glassesful of port wine, a tablespoonful of Harvey's sauce, a teaspoon-
ful of soy, and one of lemon-juice; stew the mackerel very softly
until the thinner parts begin to break, lift them out with care, dish
and serve them in their sauce as hot as possible. We can recommend
the dish to our readers as a very excellent one. A garnish of fried
sippets can be placed round the fish at will. A teaspoonful of made


CHAP. u.]
FISH.
73
mustard should be stirred to the sauce before it is poure l over the
fish.
Fillets of mackerel, 2; butter, 2 oz. ; flour, 1 teaspoonful; rind of
lemon; salt, cayenne, pounded mace : 2 minutes. Fish, 4 to 5
minutes. Port wine, two large glassesful ; Ilarvey's sauce, 1 table-
spoonful; soy and lemon-juice each, 1 teaspoonful : 4 to 6 minutes.
Mustard, 1 teaspoonful.
Obs.—Trout may be dressed by this receipt.
TO BOIL HADDOCKS.
Haddock.
In the best season in October, November, and December.
Scrape the outsides very clean,
open the fish, empty them, wash the
insides thoroughly, take out the gills,
curl the haddocks round, fasten the
tails to the mouths, arrange them on
a fish-plate, and lay them into hot
water salted as for mackerel. Take off all the scum, and simmer
them from seven to ten minutes or longer, according to their size,
which, as we have said in the directions for “the best mode of cook-
ing various kind of fish,” at the commencement of this chapter, varies
greatly, as they are sometimes very large ; they must then be brought
more slowly to boil, and more time must be allowed for them. Send
them very hot to table, with a tureen of melted butter, and one of
anchovy sauce.
7 to 10 minutes.
Obs.-In Scotland haddocks are skinned before they are boiled,
and the heads are taken off; but we see no advantage in this mode
of dressing them. Whitings, fresh herrings, and codlings, may all
be dressed by this receipt, the time only being varied according to
the size of the fish.
BAKED HADDOCKS.
After they have been cleaned, dry them thoroughly, then bake
them, as directed in the common receipt for pike, or fill them with
oyster forcemeat, or with No. 1 of Chapter VIII., if more convenient,
and proceed as for baked mackerel.
20 to 30 minutes ; longer if very large.
TO FRY HADDOCKS
Follow the directions given for fillets of whitings; or, should a
more simple method be preferred, clean and dry the fish well, cut off
the heads and tails, take out the backbones, cut each fish in three,
egg and crumb them, fry them in boiling lard a fine golden brown,
and serve them, well drained and dried, with the same sauces as boiled
haddocks.


74
[CHAP. IL
MODERN COOKERY.
TO DRESS FINNAN HALDOCKS.
These are slightly salted and dried. They are excellent eating,
if gently heated through upon the gridiron without being hardened
and are served usually at the breakfast or supper table; a feathe
dipped in oil may be passed over them before they are laid to the
fire.
TO BOIL GURNARDS.
(With directions for dressing them in other ways.)
It is more usual to fill gurnards
with forcemeat, and to bake them,
or to have the flesh raised from the
bones and dressed in fillets, than to
serve them simply boiled; they may,
however, be cooked in any of the
modes directed for mackerel,* rather
Gurnard.
more time being allowed for them,
as they are much firmer-fleshed, thicker in the bodies, and generally
of larger size altogether. Cut off all the fins, take out the gills, and
empty and cleanse them like other fish, washing the insides well ; put
them into hot water ready salted and skimmed, and boil them gently
from twenty minutes to half an hour; serve them with anchovy
sauce, or with parsley and butter rendered acid with chili vinegar,
lemon-juice, or caper-pickle.

FRESH HERRINGS.
(Farleigh Receipt.)
In season from May to October.
Scale and clean the fish with the utmost nicety, split them quite
open, and wash the insides with particular care; dry them well in a
cloth, take off the hcads and tails, and remove the backbones ; rub
the insides with pepper, salt, and a little pounded mace; stick small
bits of butter on them, and skewer two of the fish together as flat as
possible, with the skin of both outside ; flour, and broil or fry them
of a fine brown, and serve them with melted butter mixed with a
teaspoonful or more of mustard, some salt, and a little vinegar or
lemon-juice.
To broil from 20 to 25 minutes; to fry about 10 minutes.
• Whitings or haddocks.


CHAP. 1.]
75
FISH.
TO DRESS THE SEA BREAM.
The sea-bream, which is common
in many of our markets, is not con-
sidered a fish of first-rate quality; but
if well broiled or baked, it will afford
a good, and generally a cheap, dish of
excellent appearance, the bream being
of handsome size and form. Open
Sea Bream.
and cleanse it perfectly, but do not
remove the scales ; fold it in a
dry cloth to absorb the moisture which hangs about it; lay it over a
gentle fire, and broil it slowly, that the heat may gradually pene-
trate the flesh, which is thick. Should any cracks appear on
the surface, dredge a little flour upon them. If of ordinary
weight, the bream will require quite half an hour's broiling;
it should be turned, of course, when partially done. Send plain
melted butter and anchovy sauce to table with it. In carving it,
remove the skin and scales, and serve only the flesh which lies be-
neath them, and which will be very white and succulent. A more
usual and less troublesome mode of dressing the bream is to season
the inside slightly with salt and pepper or cayenne, to dust a little
more salt on the outside, spread a few bits of butter upon it, and send
it to a gentle oven. It is sometimes filled with common veal-stuffing,
and then requires to be rather longer baked; and it is often merely
wrapped in a buttered paper, and placed in a moderate oven for
twenty-five or thirty minutes.
TO BOIL PLAICE OR FLOUNDERS.
Plaice in season from May to January; flounders in September, October, and
November,
After having emptied and well cleaned
the fish, make an incision in the back
as directed for turbot; lay them into
cold spring water; add salt and salt-
petre in the same proportion as for cod
fish, and let them just simmer for four
or five minutes after the water first
begins to boil, or longer should their
Plaice.
size require it, but guard against their
being broken. Serve them with plain melted butter.
4 to 5 minutes ; longer if needful.


TO FRY PLAICE OR FLOUNDERS.
Sprinkle them with salt, and let them lie for two or three hours
before they are dressed. Wash and clean them thoroughly, wipe
them very dry, flour them well, and wipe them again with a clean


76
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. I
cloth; dip them into egg, and fine bread-crumbs, and fry them ia
plenty of lard. If the fish be large, raise the flesh in handsoms
fillets from the bones, and finish them as directed for fillets of soles.
Obs.—Plaice is said to be rendered less watery by beating it gently
with a paste-roller before it is cooked. It is very sweet and pleasant
in flavour while it is in the best season, which is from the end of May
to about September.
TO ROAST, BAKE, OR BROIL RED MULLET.
In best season through the summer: may be had all the year.
First wash and then dry the fish
thoroughly in a cloth, but neither
scale nor open it, but take out the
gills gently and carefully with the
small intestine which will adhere to
them; wrap it closely in a sheet of
Red Mullet.
thickly buttered paper, tie this se-
curely at the ends, and over the mullet with packthread, and roast it
in a Dutch oven, or broil it over a clear and gentle fire, or bake it in
a moderate oven : from twenty to twenty-five minutes will be suff-
cient generally to dress it in either way. For sauce, put into a little
good melted butter the liquor which has flowed from the fish, a small
dessertspoonful of essence of anchovies, some cayenne, a glass of port
wine, or claret, and a little lemon-juice. Remove the packthread,
and send the mullet to table in the paper case. This is the usual
mode of serving it, but it is dished without the paper for dinners of
taste. The plain red mullet, shown at the commencement of this
receipt, is scarcely ever found upon our coast. That which abounds
here during the summer months is the striped red mullet, or surmullet,
which, from its excellence, is always in request, and is therefore sel-
dom cheap. It rarely exceeds twelve, or at the utmost fourteen,
inches in length.
20 to 30 minutes.
TO BOIL GREY MULLET.
This fish varies so much in size
and quality, that it is difficult to give
exact directions for the time of cook-
ing it. When quite young and small,
it may be boiled by the receipt for
Grey Mullet.
whitings, haddocks, and other fish of
about their size ; but at its finest
growth it must be laid into cold water, and managed like larger
fish. We have ourselves partaken of one which was caught upon
our eastern coast, that weighed ten pounds, of which the flesh was
quite equal to that of salmon, but its weight was, we believe, an
unusual one. Anchovy, or caper fish sauce, with melted butter,
may be sent to table with grey mullet.


CHAP. I.]
77
FISH.
THE GAR-PISA,
3
Gar Fish.
green colour.
This is a fish of very singu-
lar appearance, elongated in
form, and with a mouth which
resembles the bill of the snipe,
from which circumstance it is
often called the snipe-fish.
Its bones are all of a bright
It is not to be recommended for the table, as the skin
contains an oil of exceedingly strong rank flavour; when entirely
divested of this, the flesh is tolerably sweet and palatable. Persons
who may be disposed from curiosity to taste it will find either
broiling or baking in a gentle oven the best mode of cooking it. It
should be curled round, and the tail fastened into the bill. As it is
not of large size, from fifteen to twenty minutes will dress it suf-
ficiently. Anchovy sauce, parsley and butter, or plain melted butter,
may be eaten with it.
Sand-Eel.
SAND-LAUNCE, OR, SAND-EEL.
The sand-launce, which is abund-
ant on many parts of our coast, and
the name of which is derived from
its habit of burrowing in the sands
when the tide retires, may be dis-
tinguished from the larger species,
the true sand-eel, by its lighter colour and more transparent appear-
ance, as well as by its inferior size. The common mode of dressing
the fish, which is considered by many a great delicacy, is to divest
them of their heads, and to remove the insides with the gills, to
dry them well in a cloth with flour, and to fry them until crisp.
They are sometimes also dipped in batter like smelts. We have not
ourselves had an opportunity of testing them, but we have received
the particulars which we have given here from various friends who
have resided where they were plentiful. The sand-eels are not so
good as the smaller kind of these fish called luunces.
TO FRY SMELTS.
[In season from beginning of November to May.]
Smelts when quite fresh have a perfume resembling that of a
cucumber, and a peculiarly delicate and agreeable fiavour when
dressed. Draw them at the gills, as they must not be opened ; wash
and dry them thoroughly in a cloth; dip them into beaten egg-yolk,
and then into the finest bread-crumbs, mixed with a very small
quantity of four; fry them of a clear golden brown, and serve them


78
[CHAP. IL
MODERN COOKERY.
crisp and dry, with good melted butter in a tureen. They are some-
times dipped into batter and then fried; when this is done, we would
recommend for them the French batter of Chapter V
3 to 4 minutes.
BAKED SMELTS.
Prepare them as for frying; pour some clarified butter into the
dish in which they are to be sent to table, arrange them neatly in it
,
with the tails meeting in the centre, strew over them as much salt,
mace, and cayenne, mixed, as will season them agreeably, cover
them smoothly with a rather thick layer of very fine bread-crumbs,
moisten them equally with clarified butter poured through a small
strainer, and bake the fish in a moderately quick oren, until the
crumbs are of a fine light brown. A glass of sherry, half a tea-
spoonful of essence of anchovies, and a dessertspoonful of lemon-juice,
are sometimes poured into the dish before the smelts are laid in.
About 10 minutes.
TO DRESS WHITE BAIT.
(Greenwich Receipt.)
[In season in July, August, and September.]
This delicate little fish requires great care to dress it well. Do not
touch it with the hands, but throw it from your dish or basket into
a cloth, with three or four handsful of flour, and shake it well; then
put it into a bait sieve, to separate it from the superfluous flour.
Hlave ready a very deep frying-pan, nearly full of boiling fat, throw
in the fish, which will be done in an instant: they must not be
allowed to take any colour, for if browned, they are spoiled. Lift
them out, and dish them upon a silver or earthenware drainer, with-
out a napkin, piling them very high in the centre. Send them to
table with a cut lemon, and slices of brown bread and butter.
WATER SOUCHY.
(Greenwich Receipt.)
This is a very simple and inexpensive dish, much served at the
regular fish-dinners for which Greenwich is celebrated, as well as at
private tables. It is excellent if well prepared; and as it may be
made with fish of various kinds when they are too small to present
a good appearance or to be palatable dressed in other way, it is
also very economical. Flounders, perch, tench, and eels, are said to
answer best for water souchy; but very delicate soles, and several
other varieties of small white fish are often used for it with good
effect: it is often made also with slices of salmon, or of salmon-peel,
freed from the skin.
Throw into rather more than sufficient water to just cover the
any


CHAP. II.]
FISH.
79
quantity of fish required for table, from half to three quarters of an
ounce of salt to the quart, a dozen corns of white pepper, a small
bunch of green parsley, and two or three tender parsley roots, first
cut into inch lengths, and then split to the size of straws, Simmer
the mixture until these last are tender, which will be in from half to
a whole hour; then lay in the fish delicately cleaned, cleared from
every morsel of brown skin, and divided into equal portions of about
two inches in width. Take off all the scum as it rises, and stew the
fish softly from eight to twelve minutes, watching it that it may not
break from being over-done.
Two minutes before it is dished, strew in a large tablespoonful or
more of minced parsley, or some small branches of the herb boiled
very green in a separate saucepan (we prefer the latter mode); lift
out the fish carefully with a slice, and the parsley roots with it; pour
over it the liquor in which it has been boiled, but leave out the
peppercorns. For a superior water souchy, take all the bones out of
the fish, and stew down the inferior portions of it to a strong broth :
about an hour will be sufficient for this. Salt, parsley, and a little
cayenne may be added to it. Strain it off clear through a sieve, and
use it instead of water for the souchy. The juice of half a good
lemon may be thrown into the stew before it is served. A deep dish
will of course be required for it. The parsley-roots can be boiled
apart when more convenient, but they give an agreeable flavour
when added to the liquor at first. Slices of brown or white bread
and butter must be sent to table always with water souchy: the first
is usually preferred, but to suit all tastes some of each may be served
with it.
SHAD, TOURAINE FASHION.
(Alose à la mode de Touraine.)
(In season in April, May, and early part of June.]
Empty and wash the fish with care, but do not open it more than
is needful; fill it either with the forcemeat No. 1, or No. 2 of
Chapter VIII., and its own roe; then sew it up, or fasten it securely
with very fine skewers, wrap it in a thickly buttered paper, and broil
it gently for an hour over a charcoal fire.
Serve it with caper sauce,
or with chili vinegar and melted butter.
We are indebted for this receipt to a friend who has been long
resident in Touraine, at whose table the fish is constantly served thus
dressed, and is considered excellent. It is likewise often gently
stewed in the light white wine of the country, and served covered
with a rich béchamel. Many fish more common with us than the
shad might be advantageously prepared in the same manner. The
charcoal fire is not indispensable : any one that is entirely fre from
smoke will answer. We would suggest as an improvement, that
oyster-forcemeat should be substituted for that which we have indi-
cated, until the oyster season ends.
Broiled gently, 1 hour, more or less, according to the size.
HO


80
[CHAP. L.
MODERN COOKERY.
STEWED TROUT.
Trout
(Good common Receipt.)
[In season from May to August.]
Melt three ounces of butter in a
broad stewpan, or well tinned iron
saucepan, stir to it a tablespooniul
of flour, some mace, cayenne, and
nutmeg : lay in the fish after it has
been emptied, washed very clean,
and wiped perfectly dry ; shake it in
the pan, that it may not stick, and when lightly browned on both
sides, pour in three quarters of a pint of good veal stock, add a small
faggot of parsley, one bay leaf, a roll of lemon-peel, and a little
salt: stew the fish very gently from half to three quarters of an hour,
or more, should it be unusually fine. Dish the trout, skim the fa:
from the gravy, and pass it through a hot strainer over the file
which should be served immediately. A little acid can be added to
the sauce at pleasure, and a glass of wine when it is considered
an improvement. This receipt is for one large or for two middling,
sized fish. We can recommend it as a good one from our own expe
rience.
Butter, 3 oz.; flour, 1 tablespoonful ; seasoning of mace, cayenne
and nutmeg ; trout, 1 large, or 2 moderate-sized ; veal stock, pint;
parsley, smal faggot; 1 bay-leaf; roll of lemon-rind; little salt to
hour.
Obs.—Trout may be stewed in equal parts of strong veal grary,
and of red or white wine, without having been previously browned;
the sauce should then be thickened, and agreeably flavoured with
lemon-juice, and the usual store-sauces, before it is poured over the
fish. They are also good when wrapped in buttered paper, and baked
or broiled: if very small, the better mode of cooking them is to fry
them whole. They should never be plain boiled, as, though naturally
a delicious fish, they are then very insipid.
TO BOIL PIKE.
[In best season from September to February.]
Take out the gills, empty and clean
the fish very thoroughly, and soak it
for half an hour with a cup of vinegar
thrown into as much water as will
cover it well, should there be any
danger of its having a muddy taste.* Wipe the inside dry, and fill it
Soaking fish is always better avoided when it can be so; well washing the
inside with strong vinegar would perhaps remove the objectionable flavour with
out it,
Pike.


char. a.]
81
FISH.
with oyster-forcemeat, or with common veal forcemeat made either
with butter or with suet (for which see Chapter VIII.); curl the fish
round, and fasten it with the tail in the mouth, lay it on a fish-plate,
cover it well with cold water, throw in some salt as soon as it
boils, skim it well, and boil the fish gently from half to a whole hour
according to its size. Some persons prefer the scales taken off the
pike when it is prepared for this mode of dressing; and many cooks
still put the fish into boiling water well salted and skimmed. Serve
it with plain melted butter, or anchovy sauce.
Moderate sized, 1 hour ; large, 1 hour.
Obs.- We must repeat that it is impossible to give for fish which
varies so much in quality as well as in size, directions for the exact
time which is required to cook it; a few minutes, more or less, must
often be allowed ; and it should always be watched attentively, and
lifted from the water as soon as it is done.
TO BAKE PIKE.
(Common Receipt.)
Pour warm water over the outside of the fish, and wipe it very clean
with a coarse cloth drawn from the head downwards, that the scales
may not be disturbed; then wash it well in cold water, empty, and
cleanse the inside with the greatest nicety, fill it either with the com-
inon forcemeat No. 1, or with No. 4 of Chapter VIII., sew it up,
fasten the tail to the mouth, give it a slight dredging of flour, stick
small bits of butter thickly over it, and bake it from half to three quar-
ters of an hour, should it be of moderate size, and upwards of an hour,
if it be large. Should there not be sufficient sauce with it in the
dish, melted butter and a lemon, or anchovy sauce may be sent to
table with it. When more convenient the forcemeat may be omitted,
and a little fine salt and cayenne, with some bits of butter, put into
the inside of the fish, which will then require rather less baking. A
buttered paper should always be laid over it in the oven, should the
outside appear likely to become too highly coloured or too dry before
the fish is done; and it is better to wrap quite small pike in buttered
paper at once before they are sent to the oven.
Moderate-sized pike, 30 to 45 minutes ; large pike, 1 to 11 hour.
TO BAKE PIKE.
(Superior Receipt.)
Scale and wash the fish, take out the gills, then open it just suf-
ficiently to allow the inside to be emptied and perfectly cleansed,
but not more than is necessary for that purpose. Wipe it as dry as
possible in every part, then hang it for an hour or two on a hook in
a coo.
larder, or wrap it in a soft cloth. Fill the body with the force-
meat No. 1 or 3, or with the oyster forcemeat of Chapter VIII. ; se iv
G


82
[CEAP. E
MODERN COOKERY.
it up very securely, curl it round, and fasten the tail into the mouth
with a thin skewer, then dip it into the beaten yolks of two or more
eggs, seasoned with nearly half a teaspoonful of salt and a little pepper
or cayenne ; cover it equally with the finest bread crumbs, dip ita
second time into the egg and crumbs, then pour some clarified butter
gently over it, through a small strainer, and send it to a well beated
oven for an hour and a quarter or more, should it be rery large, but
for less time if it be only of moderate size. As it is naturally a very
dry fish, it should not be left in the oven after it is thoroughly dose,
but it should never be sent to table until it is so. The crumbs of
bread are sometimes mixed with a sufficient quantity of minced parsley
to give the surface of the fish a green hue. Send plain melted butte,
and brown caper, or Dutch sauce to table with it.
TO STEW CARP.
(A common Country Receipt.)
Scale and clean the fish with exceeding
care, lay it into a stewpın, and cover it
with good cold beef or real broth; add
one small onion stuck with a few cloves
a faggot of savoury herbs, three or four
Carp
slices of carrot, and a little salt, and step
the carp as gently as possible for nearly an hour. Have ready some
good brown gravy, mixed with a couple of glassesful of port wine
add a squeeze of lemon-juice, dish the carp very carefully, pour the
sauce over, and serve it immediately. We would recommend the
Genevese Sauce, of Chapter V., as superior to any other for this
dish.
This receipt is for a fish which averages from five to six pounds in
weight, but the carp sometimes attains to a very large size ; and suf-
ficient time to cook it perfectly should always be allowed for it.

TO BOIL PERCH,
First wipe or wash off the slime, then
scrape off the scales, which adhere rather
tenaciously to this fish ; empty and clean
the insides perfectly, take out the gills,
cut off the fins, and lay the perch into
Perch.
equal parts of cold and of boiling water,
salted as for mackerel: from eight to ten minutes will boil them un-
less they are very large. Dish them on a napkin, garnish them with

. The figure of this fish is very disproportioned in size to that of the carp and
other kinds inserted here, as it is quite small at its fullest growth compared with
che carp, which sometimes attains to a great weight.


CHAP. 11
83
FISH.
curled parsley, and serve melted butter with them, or Maître d'Hotel
Sauce Maigre.
Very good French cooks put them at once into boiling water and
keep them over a brisk fire for about fifteen minutes, They dress
them also without taking off the scales or fins until they are ready to
serve, when they strip the whole of the skin off carefully, and stick
the red fins into the middle of the backs; the fish are then covered with
the Steward's sauce, thickened with eggs.
In warm water, 8 to 10 minutes ; in boiling, 12 to 15
We
TO FRY PERCH OR TENCH.
Scale, and clean them perfectly; dry them well, flour and fry
them in boiling lard. Serve plenty of crisped or fried parsley round
them.
TO FRY EELS.
.
3
[In season all the year, but not so well-conditioned in April and May as in other
months. ]
First kill, then skin, empty, and wash them as clean as possible ;
cut them into four-inch lengths, and dry them well in a soft cloth.
Season them with fine salt, and white pepper, or cayenne, flour them
thickly, and fry them a fine brown in boiling lard ; drain and dry
them as directed for soles, and send them to table with plain melted
butter or anchovy sauce. Eels are sometimes dipped into batter and
then fried; or into egg and fine bread-crumbs (mixed with minced
parsley or not, at pleasure), and served with plenty of crisped parsley
round, and on them.
It is an improvement for these modes of dressing the fish to open
them entirely; and remove the bones: the smaller parts should be
thrown into the pan a minute or two later than the thicker portions
of the bodies or they will not be equally done.
BOILED EELS.
(German Receipt.)
Pare a fine lemon, and strip from it entirely the white inner rind ;
slice it, and remove the pips with care; put it with a blade of mace,
a small half-teaspoonful of white peppercorns, nearly twice as much
of salt, and a moderate-sized bunch of parsley, into three pints of
cold water, bring them gently to boil, and simmer them for twenty
minutes ; let them become quite cold; then put in three pounds of
eels skinned; and cleaned with great nicety, and cut into lengths of
three or four inches; simmer them very softly from ten to fifteen
minutes, lift them with a slice into a very hot dish, and serve them
with a good Dutch sauce, or with parsley and butter acidulated
with lemon-juice, or with chili vinegar.
For boiled eels with sage (German Receipt), see Chapter of Foreign
Cookery.


8+
(CHAP. L.
MODERN COOKERY
EELS.
(Cornish Receipt.)
Skin, empty, and wash as clean as possible, two or three fine eels,
cut them into short lengths, and just cover them with cold water;
add sufficient salt and cayenne to season them, and stew them very
softly indeed from fifteen to twenty minutes, or longer should they
require it. When they are nearly done, strew over them a teaspoonful
of minced parsley, thicken the sauce with a teaspoonful of flour mied
with a slice of butter, and add a quarter of a pint or more of cloited
cream. Give the whole a boil, lift the fish into a hot dish, and sir
briskly the juice of half a lemon into the sauce; pour it upon the
eels, and serve them immediately: Very sweet thick cream is, we
think, preferable to clotted cream for this dish. The sauce should be
of a good consistence, and a dessertspoonful of flour will be needed for
a large dish of the stew, and from one and a half to two ounces of
butter. The size of the fish must determine the precise quantity o
liquid and of seasoning which they will require.
RED HERRINGS, À LA DAUPHIN.
Take off the heads, open the backs of the fish, and remove the
back-bones : soak the herrings, should they be very dry, for two or
three hours in warm milk and water, drain and wipe them. Dissolve
a slice of fresh butter, and mix it with the beaten yolks of a couple
of eggs and some savoury herbs minced small : dip the fish into these,
and spread them thickly with fine bread crumbs ; broil them of a
light brown, over a moderate fire, and serve them on hot buttered
toasts, sprinkled with a little cayenne.
RED HERRINGS, COMMON ENGLISH MODE.
This fish is rendered infinitely more delicate by pouring boiling
water on it before it is dressed, and leaving it to soak for half an
hour, or more, should it be highly dried. The fresh Yarmouth bloaters
do not require this. Cut off the heads and tails, open the herrings at
the back, and warm them through before the fire, or upon the grid-
iron. They may be rubbed with a bit of cold butter, and seasoned
with a slight sprinkling of pepper or cayenne, when these are liked,
or served quite plain.
ANCHOVIES FRIED IN BATTER.
Scrape very clean a dozen or more of fine anchovies, and soak them
in plenty of spring water from two to six hours: then wipe them dry,
open them, and take out the back-bones, without dividing the fish.
Season the insi'les highly with cayenne, close the anchovies, dip them
into the French batter of Chapter V., or into a light English batter, and
fry them a pale amber-colour: in from four to five minutes they will
be quite sufficiently done.


CHAP. U. ]
85
FISH.
CHAPTER III.
Dishes of Shell-fisk.

OYSTERS,
[In season from September to April.]
The old-fashioned plan of feeding oysters with a sprinkling of oat-
meal or flour, in addition to the salt and water to which they were
committed, has long been rejected by all genuine amateurs of these
nutritious and excellent fish, who consider the plumpness which the
oysters are supposed to gain from the process, but poor compensation
for the flavour which they are sure to lose. To cleanse them when
they first come up from the beds, and to keep them in good condi-
tion for four or five days, they only require to be covered with cold
water, with five ounces of salt to the gallon dissolved in it before it is
poured on them; this should be changed with regularity every twenty-
four hours. By following this plan with exactness they may be kept
alive from a week to ten days, but will remain in perfect condition
scarcely more than half that time. Oysters should be eaten always the
instant they are opened. Abroad they are served before the soup in the


86
[CHAP. IL
MODERN COOKERY.
first course of a dinner, arranged usually in as many plates as there are
guests at table. In England they are sometimes served after the soup.
A sense of appropriateness must determine how far the variations i
fashion should be followed in such matters.
Obs. We were accustomed formerly to have the brine which was
supplied to oysters intended to be kept for some days, changed twie in
the twenty-four hours; but we were informed by an oyster mercha.
in an extensive business that once was sufficient.
TO SCALLOP OYSTERS.
Large coarse oysters should never be dressed in this way. Selai
small plump ones for the purpose, let them be opened carefully, give
them a scald in their own liquor, wash them in it free from grit, and
beard them neatly. Butter the scallop shells and shake some fine
bread-crumbs over them ; fill them with alternate layers of oysters,
crumbs of bread, and fresh butter cut into small bits; pour in the
oyster-liquor, after it has been strained, put a thick, smooth layer of
bread-crumbs on the top, moisten them with clarified butter, place
the shells in a Dutch oven before a clear fire, and turn them oftca
until the tops are equally and lightly browned: send them immedi-
ately to table.
Some persons like a little white pepper or cayenne, and a flavour-
ing of nutmeg added to the oysters; others prefer pounded mace.
French cooks recommend with them a mixture of minced mushrooms
stewed in butter till quite tender, and sweet herbs finely chopped.
The fish is sometimes laid into the shells after having been bearded
only.
SCALLOPED OYSTERS À LA REINE.
Plump and beard the oysters, after having rinsed them well in
their own strained liquor ; add to this about an equal quantity of
very rich white sauce, and thicken it, if needful, with half a teaspoon-
ful of flour, mixed with a small slice of butter, or with as much
arrow-root only; put in the oysters, and keep them at the point of
simmering for three or four minutes : lay them into the shells, and
cover the tops thickly with crumbs fried a delicate brown and well
dried; or heap over them instead, a layer of fine crumbs ; pour cla-
rificd butter on them, and brown them with a salamander
TO STEW OYSTERS.
A pint of small plump oysters will be sufficient for a quite mode-
rate-sized dish, but twice as many will be required for a large one.
Let them be very carefully opened, and not mangled in the slightest
degree; wash them free from grit in their own strained liquor, lay
• Common cooks merely stick small bits of butter on them.


CHAP. II.]
87
FISH.
them into a very clean stewpan or well-tinned saucepan, strain the
liquor a second time, pour it on them, and heat them slowly in
it. When they are just beginning to simmer, lift them out with a
slice or a bored wooden spoon, and take off the beards ; add to the
liquor a quarter of a pint of good cream, a seasoning of pounded mace,
and cayenne, and a little salt, and when it boils, stir in from one to
two ounces of good butter, smoothly mixed with a large teaspoonful
of flour; continue to stir the sauce until these are perfectly blended
with it, then put in the oysters, and let them remain by the side of
the fire until they are very hot: they require so little cooking that,
if kept for four or five minutes nearly simmering, they will be ready
for table, and they are quickly hardened by being allowed to boil,
or by too much stewing. Serve them garnished with pale fried
sippets.
Small plump oysters, 1 pint: their own liquor : brought slowly to
the point of simmering: Cream, & pint; seasoning of pounded mace
and cayenne; salt as needed ; butter, 1 to 2 oz.; flour, 1 large tea-
spoonful.
Obs.-A little lemon-juice should be stirred quickly into the stew
just as it is taken from the fire. Another mode of preparing this
dish, is to add the strained liquor of the oysters to about an equal
quantity of rich bechamel, with a little additional thickening; then
to heat them in it, after having prepared and plumped them properly.
Or, the beards of the fish may be stewed for half an hour in a little
pale gravy, or good broth, and this, when strained and mixed with
the oyster-liquor, may be brought to the consistency of cream with
the French thickening of Chapter V., or, with flour and butter, then
seasoned with spice as abovc: the process should be quite the same
in all of these receipts, though the composition of the sauce is varied.
Essence of anchovies, cavice, chili vinegar, or yolks of eggs can be
added to the taste.
For Curried Oysters see Chapter XVI.
OYSTER SAUSAGES.
(A most excellent Receipt.)
Beard, rinse well in their strained liquor, and mince but not
finely, three dozens and a half of plump native oysters, and mix them
with ten ounces of fine bread-crumbs, and ten of beef-suet chopped
extremely small; add a saltspoonful of salt, and one of pepper, or
less than half the quantity of cayenne, twice as much pounded mace,
and the third of a small nutmeg grated : moisten the whole with two
unbeaten eggs, or with the yolks only of three, and a dessertspoonful
of the whites. When these ingredients have been well worked toge-
ther, and are perfectly blended, set the mixture in a cool place for
two or three hours before it is used; make it into the form of small
sausages or sausage-cakes, flour and fry them in butter of a fine light


88
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. IL
brown; or throw them into boiling water for three minutes, drain,
and let them become cold, dip them into egg and bread-crumbs, and
broil them gently until they are lightly coloured. A small bit
should be cooked and tasted before the whole is put aside, that the
seasoning may be heightened if required. The sausages thus made are
extremely good : the tingers should be well floured in making them
up.
Small plump oysters, 3} dozens ; bread-crumbs, 10 oz. ; beef soet,
10 oz. ; seasoning of salt, cayenne, pounded mace, and nutmeg;
beaten eggs 2, or yolks of 3.
TO BOIL LOBSTERS.
[In full season from April to October: may be had all the year.)
Choose them by the directions given at the commencement of this
chapter, and throw them into plenty of fast-boiling salt and water,
that life may be destroyed in an instant.
To l gallon of water, 5 ounces salt: moderate sized lobster, 15 to 20
minutes ; large lobster, 30 to 40 minutes ; very large, 1 hour or more
COLD DRESSED LOBSTER AND CRAB.
Before a lobster is sent to
table take off the large
claws, hold each of them
firmly with the edge up-
wards, and with a quick
light blow from acutlet bat
orought else convenient for
the purpose, crack the shell
without disfiguring the
fish. Split the tail open
with a very sharp knife and
Dressed Lobster.
dish the lobster in the manner shown in the engraving, either with, or
without a napkin under it. When the soft part of the body is re-
quired to mix with the dressing, take it out before it is served,
and add it to the remoulade, or other sauce with which it is to be
mingled. The shrimp chatney of Chapter VI. is a wholesome accom-
paniment to this fish ; which we must remark here should be
sparingly eaten, or altogether avoided, by persons in delicate health,
and especially at night. It is too much the fashion to serve
it as a supper dish at parties; and it sometimes produces dangerous
attacks of indigestion and other illness. The flesh of the crab is much
lighter. This is served in the shell, which should be entirely emptied
and nicely cleaned out; the sides filled with the white flesh divided
into small flakes, and the centre with the soft part or cream as it is
called.


CHAP. III.]
89
FISH.
The flesh of two crabs
can be served in one shell
when a dish of handsome
appearance is required, and
the sauce can be mixed
with it the instant before
it is sent to table, though it
will be whiter, and of better
appearance without it. The
centre may be filled with a
red Imperial Mayonnaise, when a good effect is wanted. For other
appropriate sauces see Chapter VI.

Dressed Crab.
LOBSTERS, FRICASSEED, OR AU BÉCHAMEL. (ENTRÉE.)
Take the flesh from the claws and tails of two moderate-sized lobsters
cut it into small scallops or dice; heat it slowly quite through in about
three quarters of a pint of good white sauce or bechamel ; and serve it
when it is at the point of boiling, after having stirred briskly to it a
little lemon-juice just as it is taken from the fire. The coral, pounded
and mixed gradually with a few spoonsful of the sauce, should be added
previously. Good shin of beef stock made without vegetables (see
page 97), and somewhat reduced by quick boiling, if mixed with an
equal proportion of cream, and thickened with arrow-root, will answer
extremely well in a general way for this dish, which is most excel-
lent if well made. The sauce should never be thin; nor more than
sufficient in quantity to just cover the fish. For a second course dish,
only as much must be used as will adhere to the fish, which after being
heated should be laid evenly into the shells, which ought to be split
quite through the centre of the backs in their entire length, without
being broken or divided at the joint, and nicely cleaned, When thus
arranged, the lobster may be thickly covered with well dried, fine, pale
fried crumbs of bread, or with unfried ones, which must then be
equally moistened with clarified butter, and browned with a sala-
mander. A small quantity of salt, mace, and cayenne, may be re--
quired to finish the favouring of either of these preparations.
HOT CRAB, OR LOBSTER.
(In season during the same time as Lobsters.)
Slice quite small, or pull into light flakes with a couple of forks,
the flesh of either fish; put it into a saucepan with a few bits of good
butter lightly rolled in four, and heat it slowly over a gentle fire ;
then pour over and thoroughly mix with it, from one to two tea-
spoonsful or more of common or of chili vinegar; if with the former,
add to it a tolerable seasoning of cayenne. Grate in a little nutmeg,
and when the whole is well heated serve it immediately, either in the


90
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. m.
shell of the crab or lobster, or in scallop-shells, and serve it plain, or
with bread-crumbs over, as in the preceding receipt. A spoonful or
so of good meat jelly is, we think, a great improvement to this dish,
for which an ounce and a half of butter will be quite sufficient.
This is sometimes called Buttered Crab.
POTTED LOBSTERS.
Separate carefully the flesh of freshly-boiled lobsters from the
shells, and from the tough red skin of the tails, mince the fish up
quickly with a very sharp knife, turn it immediately into a large
mortar, and strew over it a mixed seasoning of fine cayenne, pounded
mace, lightly grated nutmeg, and salt: this last should be sparingly
used in the first instance, and it should be reduced to powder before
it is added. Pound the lobsters to a perfect paste with from two to
three ounces of firm new butter to each fish if of large size, but with
less should it be small; and the lobster-coral previously rubbed
through a sieve, or with a portion of it only, should any part of it be
required for other purposes. When there is no coral, a tine colour
may be given to the mixture by stewing the red skin of the tails VERY
softly for ten or twelve minutes in part of the butter which is used
for it, but which must be strained and left to become perfectly cold
before it is mingled with the fish. The degree of seasoning given to
the mixture can be regulated by the taste; but no flavour should pre-
dominate over that of the lobster itself; and for all delicate prepara-
tions, over-spicing should be particularly avoided. A quart or more
of fine brown shrimps, if very fresh and quickly shelled at the in-
stant of using, may be chopped up and pounded with the lobsters
with excellent effect. Before the mixture is taken from the mortar
it should be placed in a cool larder, or set over ice for a short time,
to render it firm before it is pressed into the potting-pans or moulds.
In putting it into these, be careful to press it into a compact, even
mass ; smooth the surface, run a little clarified butter over, when it
is only just liquid, for if hot it would prevent the fish from keeping
-and send the lobster to table, neatly garnished with light green
foliage; or with ornamentally-cut paper fastened round the mould;
or with a small damask napkin tastefully arranged about it.
Obs.-By pounding separately part of the white flesh of the fish,
freed from every particle of the skin, and by colouring the remainder
highly with the coral of the lobster, and then pressing the two in al-
ternate and regular layers into a mould, a dish of pretty appearance
is produced, which should be turned out of the mould for table.
Ham and turkey (or any other white meat) are often potted in this
way.


CHAP. II.]
91
SHELL FISH.
LOBSTER CUTLETS.
(A Superior Entrée.)
1
1
-
Prepare and pound with exceeding nicety, by the preceding receipt
for Potted Lobsters, about three quarters of a pound of the flesh of a
couple of fine fresh lobsters, of which one must be a hen lobster; add
to it, when it is partially beaten, an ounce and a half of sweet new
butter, a saltspoonful of salt, and about two-thirds as much of mixed
mace and cayenne, with a dessertspoonful of the inside coral, the
whole of which should be rubbed with a wooden spoon through a
hair sieve, to be in readiness for use. When all these ingredients
are well blended, and beaten to the finest and smoothest paste, the
mixture should be tested by the taste, and the seasoning heightened
if needful; but, as the preparation is very delicate, it should not be
over-spiced. Mould it into the form of small cutlets about the third
of an inch thick, stick into each a short bit of the smallest claws,
strew the coral lightly over them so as to give them the appearance
of being crumbed with it, arrange them round the dish in which they
are to be sent to table, place them in a very gentle oven for eight or
ten minutes only to heat them through, or warm them in a Dutch or
American oven, placed at some distance from the fire, that the brilliant
colour of the coral may not be destroyed; and pour into the centre
some good béchamel (see page 108), or the Lady's Sauce, or the
Cream Sauce of Chapter IV. A very white sauce best contrasts with
the colour of the cutlets. This is an excellent and elegant dish, of
which an admirable variety is made by the addition of three or four
ounces of the freshest shrimps, quickly shelled, and chopped before
they are thrown into the mortar, with half an ounce of butter and a
little spice. All the coral can be added to the cutlets at pleasure ;
but it is generally in request for many purposes, and is required for
this one only in part.
Obs. As lobsters are well known to be the most indigestible of
shell fish, and as they sometimes prove dangerously so to persons out
of health, these pounded preparations are the best and safest forms in
which they can be served : they should at all times be beaten to a
smooth, fibreless paste, before they are taken from the mortar ; and
no fish that is not entirely fresh should ever be used for them. Prawns
may be advantageously served in the same manner.
For Indian Lobster Cutlets, see Chapter of Foreign Cookery.
LOBSTER SAUSAGES.
Let the fish be pounded as for the cutlets above or for boudinettes,
but mix half or more of the coral with the flesh of the lobsters;
shape it like small sausages, sprinkle them with the powdered coral,


92
LCHAP. III.
MODERN COOKERY.
and heat them through in a Dutch or American oven. They may
be brushed with clarified butter before the coral is strewed over them.
but they scarcely need it. A fierce degree of heat will destroy the
excellence of all these preparations.
BOUDINETTES OF LOBSTERS, PRAWNS, OR SHRIMPS. (ENTRÉE).
(Author's Receipt.)
When the fish has been prepared as above, mould it in as many
very small round cups as will suffice for a dish; heat them gently
through at the mouth of the oven or before the fire, and serve them
dry, or with a little rich white sauce, coloured with lobster-coral
poured round, but not upon them. These boudinettes are delicious,
made entirely of shrimps or prawns, which it is an advantage to have
prepared as follows, either for this purpose or for potting simply, as
they will then be firmer, and will also remain good much longer :
-Shell them quickly, and touch them as little as possible in the
process; put them into an enamelled saucepan with about three
ounces of butter to the quart, and strew the spice upon them;
place them by the side of a gentle fire that they may heat through
very gradually, and shake the saucepan round occasionally to mingle
the seasoning equally with them. Do not allow them to boil, as
that would render them tough, but when they are heated quite
through and the butter approaches the point of simmering, draw
them from the fire ; let them remain for a few minutes in the sauce-
pan, then lay them very evenly and closely into the pans and pour
the butter on them; but let it be clear from sediment, or from any
liquid which may be perceptible at the bottom of the saucepan.
When merely required for boudinettes, the fish may be turned into a
large pan or basin and left until thoroughly cold, then chopped
small up
a dish with the butter in which they are imbedded, and
pounded as usual; no additional butter will be required for them,
and part of that in which they have been heated may be set aside
for fish-sauce when the proportion of it directed here is considered
too large. As it should cover the shrimps entirely when they are
potted whole, sufficient to do so should be melted with them. It is
an excellent plan to dissolve it in a separate saucepan, to skim it
well, and after it has stood to become clear, to pour it gently over
the shrimps, leaving all the buttermilk behind. They should not be
placed immediately by the fire, or they will heat too quickly: they
should be set away from it until the butter has cooled upon them.
If carefully prepared, and agreeably seasoned, they will be excellent,
and can be sent to a great distance without detriment if packed so as
to be kept cool. The red shrimps may be substituted for the brown,
when they can be more easily procured.
Obs.-Lobsters and shrimps, or prawns, in equal proportions,
answer extremely well for boudinettes as for potting.


CHAP. III.]
93
FISH.
TO BOIL SHRIMPS OR PRAWNS.
Throw them into plenty of fast boiling water, to which salt has
been added in the proportion of from five to six ounces to the gallon;
take off all the scum, boil the shrimps for five or six minutes, or
rather less should they be very small, and the prawns for about two
minutes longer. The shrimpers* of the coast frequently cook them
in sea-water, but the flavour is not then so agreeable as when fresh
brine is used for them. They are always unwholesome when not
sufficiently boiled ; and even more so when they are stale. As soon
as they are tender, drain them well in a cullender, and spread them
out on a soft cloth to cool ; or dish them on a napkin, and send them
hot to table when they are liked so. The large brown shrimps are
considered the best, and they are more easily shelled than the red
ones: these last, however, are sometimes preferred to them. Prawns,
though superior to shrimps only in size, are always much higher
in price.
Shrimps, 5 to 6 minutes if large. Prawns, 6 to 8 minutes.
Obs.-Ready-dressed shrimps or prawns may be preserved fit for
eating at least twelve hours longer than they would otherwise keep,
by throwing them for an instant into boiling salt and water, when
they first begin to lose their freshness, and then draining them as
above.
TO DISH COLD PRAWNS.
When they are quite cold, dish them singly upon a very white
napkin neatly arranged over a saucer or small basin reversed in a
dish, and garnish the base with a wreath of curled parsley, or with
small leaves of the purple endive.
TO SHELL SHRIMPS AND PRAWNS QUICKLY AND EASILY.
This, though a most simple process, would appear, from the manner
in which it is performed by many people, to be a very difficult one ;
indeed it is not unusual for persons of the lower classes, who, from lack,
of a little skill, find it slow and irksome, to have resource to the dan-
gerous plan of eating the fish entire. It need scarcely be remarked
that very serious consequences may accrue from the shells being
swallowed with them, particularly when they are taken in large quan-
tities. Unless the fish be stale, when they are apt to break, they will
quit the shells easily if the head be held firmly in the right hand and
the tail in the other, and the fish be straightened entirely, then the two
hands pressed quickly towards each other, and the shell of the tail
broken by a slight vibratory motion of the right hand, when it will
be drawn of' with the head adhering to it: a small portion, only will
then remain on at the other end, which can be removed in an instant.
* Or pandlers, as they are often called.


94
[CHAP. IV.
MODERN COOKERY.
CHAPTER iv.
Gravies.
INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.
Gravy Kettle.
GRAVIES are not often required
either in great variety, or in abun-
dant quantities,when only a moderate
table is kept, and a clever cook :)
manage to supply, at a trifling cost,
all that is generally needed for plain
family dinners; while an unskilfal
or extravagant one will render them sources of unbounded expense.*
But however small the proportions in which they are made, their
quality should be particularly attended to, and they should be well
adapted in flavour to the dishes they are to accompany. For some,
a high degree of savour is desirable, but for fricassees, and other
preparations of delicate white meats, this should be avoided, and a
soft, smooth sauce of refined flavour should be used in preference to
any of more piquant relish.
Instead of frying the ingredients for brown gravies, which is
usually done in common English kitchens, French cooks pour to them
at first a small quantity of liquid, which is reduced by rapid boiling
to what is technically called glaze; particular directions for which
will be found in the next receipt to this, and also at pages 10 and 104
When the glaze has acquired the proper colour, boiling broth should
be added in small portions, and well shaken round the stewpan to
detach it entirely; the meat may then be stewed gently for three or
four hours with a few mushrooms, should they be at hand, a bunch
of parsley, and some green onions, or with a Portugal onion instead.
À thick slice or two of an unboiled ham, is an almost indispens-
able addition to rich soup or gravy, and to supply it in the most
economical manner, a large, highly cured one, or more, not over
. We know of an instance of a cook who stewed down two or three pounds of
beef to make gravy for a single brace of partridges; and who complained of the
manness of her employers (who were by no means affluent) because this was ob
i to.


CHAP. Iv.]
95
GRAVIES.
1
1
fatted, should be kept for the purpose, and cut as required. The
bones of undressed meat will supply almost, or quite as good
gravy-stock as the meat itself, if well boiled down, particularly those
of the loin, or neck of veal ; and as the flesh of these may be dressed
in many ways advantageously without them, the whole joint may be
turned to excellent account by so dividing it.
The necks of poultry, with the feet properly skinned, a few herbs,
a morsel or two of ham or of lean bacon, and such slight flavourings
beside as the spice-box can supply, with a few drops good mush-
room catsup, will of themselves, if well managed, produce sufficient
gravy to serve with the birds from which they are taken; and if not
wanted for the purpose, they should always be stewed down, or
thrown into the stock pot, for which the shank bones of legs of
mutton, and all trimmings of meats should likewise be reserved.
Excellent broth for the sick or for the needy, may also be made of
them at little cost, when they are not required for other uses.
To deepen the colour of gravies, the thick mushroom pressings
of Chapter VII., or a little soy (when its flavour is admissible), or
cavice, or Harvey's sauce, may be added to it; and for some dishes, a
glass of claret, or of port wine.
Vermicelli, or rasped cocoa-nut, lightly, and very gently browned
in a small quantity of butter, will both thicken and enrich them, if
about an ounce of either to the pint of gravy be stewed gently in it,
from half an hour to an hour, and then strained out.
All the ingredients indicated at page 4, for giving consistency to
soups, will answer equally for gravies, which should not, however,
be too much thickened, particularly with the unwholesome mixture
of flour and butter, so commonly used for the purpose. Arrow-root
or rice-flour, or common flour gradually browned in a slow oven, are
much better suited to a delicate stomach. No particle of fat should
ever be perceptible upon them when they are sent to table; and when
it cannot be removed by skimming, they should be allowed to become
sufficiently cold for it to congeal, and be taken off at once without
trouble. It may be cleared from such as have not been thickened by
passing them through a closely woven cloth, which has previously
been laid into, and well wrung from, some cold water.
JEWISH SMOKED BEEF.
(Extremely useful for giving flavour to soup and gravy.)
This beef, of which we have more fully spoken in Chapter XXXIV.,
imparts a remarkably fine flavour to soup or gravy; but great care
must be taken in using it to cut quite away all the external parts
which have been discoloured in the drying : the whole of the surface,
indeed, should be rather thickly pared off, or it will give a smoky
taste to the gravy. An ounce or two of the lean thus cleared from
the outsides and from all skin and fat, and divided first into thick


96
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. IV.
slices, and then into small squares, will flavour a pint or more of
stock of any kind : it may be added to the meat in making Liebez
gravy when it is first put into the stewpan.
TO DEIGHTEN THE COLOUR AND THE FLAVOUR OF GRAVIES.
This is best done by the directions given for making Espagnole
An ounce or two of the lean of unboiled ham, cut into dice and co-
loured slowly in a small stewpan, or smoothly-tinned iron saucepan,
with less than an ounce of butter, a blade of mace, two or three
cloves, a bay-leaf, a few small sprigs of savoury herbs, and an escbalot
or two, or about a teaspoonful of minced onion, and a little young
parsley root, when it can be had, will convert common shin of bezi
stock, or even strong broth, into an excellent gravy, if it be gradually
added to them after they have stewed slowly for quite half an hour,
and then boiled with them for twenty minutes or more. The liquid
should not be mixed with the other ingredients until the side of the
stewpan is coloured of a reddish brown; and should any thickening
be required, a teaspoonful of flour should be stirred in well, and simi-
mered for three or four minutes before the stock is added; the pan
should be strongly shaken round afterwards, to detach the browning
from it, and this must be done often while the ham is stewing.
Obs.--The cook who is not acquainted with this mode of preparing
or enriching gravies, will do well to make herself acquainted with it;
as it presents no difficulties, and is exceedingly convenient and ad-
vantageous when they are wanted in small quantities, very highly
flavoured and well coloured. An unboiled ham, kept in cut, will be
found, as we have already said, a great economy for this, and other
purposes, saving much of the expense commonly incurred for grary.
meats. As eschalots, when sparingly used, impart a much finer sa-
vour than onions, though they are not commonly so much used in
England, we would recommend that a small store of them should al.
ways be kept.
BARON LIEBEG's BEEF GRAVY.
(Most excellent for hashes, minces, and other dishes made of cold meat.)
For particulars of this most useful receipt, for extracting all its
juices from fresh meat of every kind in the best manner, the cook is
referred to the first part of the chapter on soups. The preparation,
for which minute directions are given there, if poured on a few bits
of lean ham lightly browned, with the other ingredients indicated
above, will be converted into gravy of fine flavour and superior
quality.
With no addition, beyond that of a little thickening and spice, it
will serve admirably for dressing cold meat, in all the usual forms of


CHAP. Iv.]
97
GRAVIES.
hashes, minces, blanquettes, &c., &c., and convert it into dishes as
nourishing as those of meat freshly cooked, and it may be economically
made in small quantities with any trimmings of undressed beef, mut-
ton, or veal, mixed together, which are free from fat, and not sinewy:
flavour may be given to it at once by chopping up with them the
lean part only of a slice or two of ham, or of highly-cured beef.
SHIN OF BEEF STOCK FOR GRAVIES.
There is no better foundation for strong gravies than shin of beef
stewed down to a jelly (which it easily becomes), with the addition
only of some spice, a bunch of savoury herbs, and a moderate pro-
portion of salt; this, if kept in a cool larder, boiled softly for two or
Three minutes every second or third day, and each time put into a
clean, well-scalded pan, will remain good for many days, and may
easily be converted into excellent soup or gravy. Let the bone be
broken in one or two places, take out the marrow, which, if not
wanted for immediate use, should be clarified, and stored for future
occasions; put a pint and a half of cold water to the pound of beef,
and stew it very gently indeed for six or seren hours, or even longer
should the meat not then be quite in fragments. The bones of calf's
feet which have been boiled down for jelly, the liquor in which the
head has been cooked, and any remains of ham quite freed from the
smoky parts, from rust, and fat, will be serviceable additions to this
stock. A couple of pounds of the neck of beef may be added to six
of the shin with very good effect; but for white soup or sauces this
is better avoided.
Shin of beef, 6 lbs. ; water, 9 pints; salt, 1 oz. ; large bunch of
savoury herbs; peppercorns, 1 teaspoonful; mace, 2 blades.
RICH PALE VEAL GRAVY, OR CONSOMMÉ.
The French, who have always at hand their stock-pot of good
bouillon (beef soup or broth), make great use of it in preparing their
gravies. It is added instead of water to the fresh meat, and when
this, in somewhat larger proportions, is boiled down in it, with the
addition only of a bunch of parsley, a few green onions, and a mode-
fate seasoning of salt, strong and very pure-flavoured pale gravy
is produced. When the best joints of fowls, or of partridges have
been taken for fricassees or cutlets, the remainder may be stewed
with a pound or two of veal into a consommé, which then takes
the name of chicken or of game gravy. For a large dinner it is
always desirable to have in readiness such stock as can easily and
quickly be converted into white and other sauces. To make this,
arrange a slice or two of lean ham in a stewpan or saucepan with
three pounds of the neck of veal once or twice divided (unless
the thick fleshy part of the knuckle can be had), and pour to them
H


98
[CHAP. IT.
MODERN COOKERY.
or more.
three full pints of strong beef or veai broth; or, if this cannot
conveniently be done, increase the proportion of meat or dimiuish that
of the liquid, substituting water for the broth; throw in some salt
after the boiling has commenced, and the gravy has been well skimmer,
with one mild onion, a bunch of saroury herbs, a little celery, a car-
rot, a blade of mace, and a half-saltspoonful of peppercorns; ster
those very gently for four hours; then, should the meat be quite in
fragments, strain off the gravy, and let it become sufficiently cold to
allow the fat be entirely cleared from it. A bandful of nicely pre-
pared mushroom-buttons will much improve its flavour; and the
bopes of boiled calf's feet, or the fresh ones of fowls, will be found
excellent additions to it. A better method of making it, when time
and trouble are not regarded, is to heat the meat, which ought to be
free of bones, quite through, with from a quarter to half a pint of
broth only, and when on probing it with the point of a knife no blood
issues from it, and it has been turned and equally done, to moisten i
with the remainder of the broth, which should be boiling.
Lean of ham, 6 to 8 oz.; neck or knuckle of veal, 3 lbs.; stroos
broth, 3 pints (or veal, 4 lbs., and water, 3 pints); salt; bunch of
savoury herbs; mild onion, 1; carrot, 1 large or 2 small; celery I
small head; mace, 1 large blade ; peppercorns, s saltspoonful; 4 hours
Or: ham, i lb. ; veal, 4 lbs. ; broth, third of a pint; Dearly
1 hour. Additional broth, 3 pints: 3 to 45 hours.
RICH DEEP-COLOURED VEAL GRAVY.
Lay into a large thick stewpan or saucepan, from half to three
quarters of a pound of undressed ham, freed entirely from fat, and
from the smoked edges, and sliced half an inch thick; on this place
about four pounds of lean real, cut from the best part of the knuckle
or from the neck (part of the tillet, which in France is often used for
it instead, not being generally purchasable here, the butchers seldom
dividing the joint); pour to them about half a pint of good broth,
and place the pan over a brisk fire until it is well reduced; then
thrust a knife into the meat, and continue the stewing rore gently
until a glaze is formed as we have described at page 10. The latter
part of the process must be very slow ; the stewpan must be frequently
shaken, and the gravy closely watched that it may not burn: when it
is of a fine deep amber colour, pour in sufficient boiling broth to
cover the meat, add a bunch of parsley, and a few mushrooms and
green onions. A blade or two of mace, a few white peppercorns, and
a head of celery, would, we think, be very admissible additions to this
gravy, but it is extremely good without. Half the quantity can be
made, but it will then be rather more troublesome to manage.
Undressed ham, 8 to 12 oz. : lean veal, 4 lbs.; broth, pint; 1 to
• When there is no provision of this in the house, the quantity may be made
with a small proportion of beef, and the trimmings of the veai, by he directions for
Bouillon, Chapter I.


char. iv.]
GRAVIES.
99
1
2 hours. Broth, 3 to 4 pints: bunch of parsley and green onions, or
1 Portugal onion; mushrooms, to $ pint: 1; to 2 hours.
GOOD BEEF OR VEAL GRAVY. (ENGLISH RECEIPT.)
Flour and fry lightly in a bit of good butter a couple of pounds of
either beef or veal ; drain the meat well from the fat, and lay it into
a small thick stewpan or iron saucepan; pour to it a quart of boiling
water; add, after it has been well skimmed and salted, a large mild
onion sliced, very delicately fried, and laid on a sieve to drain, a car-
rot also sliced, a small bunch of thyme and parsley, a blade of mace,
and a few peppercorns ; stew these gently for three hours or more,
pass the gravy through a sieve into a clean pan, and when it is quite
cold clear it entirely from fat, heat as much as is wanted for table,
and if not sufficiently thick stir into it from half to a whole teaspoon-
ful of arrowroot mixed with a little mushroom catsup.
Beef or veal, 2 lbs. ; water, 2 pints; fried onion, 1 large; carrot, 1;
small bunch of herbs; salt, 1 small teaspoonful or more; mace,
blade ; peppercorns, 20: 3 to 3} hours.
A RICH ENGLISH BROWN GRAVY.
Brown lightly and carefully from four to six ounces of lean ham,
thickly sliced and cut into large dice; lift these out, and put them
into the pan in which the gravy is to be made; next, fry lightly also,
a couple of pounds of neck of beef dredged moderately with flour,
and slightly with pepper; put this, when it is done, over the ham;
and then brown gently and add to them two or three eschalots, or a
Portugal onion; should neither of these be at hand, one not large
common onion must be used instead. Pour over these ingredients a
quart of boiling water, or of weak but well-flavoured broth; bring the
whole slowly to a boil, clear off the scum with great care, throw in a
saltspoonful of salt, four cloves, a blade of mace, twenty corns of
pepper, a bunch of savoury herbs, a carrot, and a few slices of celery :
these last two may be fried or not as is most convenient. Boil the
gravy very softly until it is reduced to little more than a pint; strain,
and set it by until the fat can be taken from it. Heat it anew, add
more salt if needed and a little mushroom catsup, cayenne-vinegar,
or whatever flavouring it may require for the dish with which
it is to be served; it will seldom require any thickening. A
dozen small mushrooms prepared as for pickling, or two or three
morels, previously well washed and soaked, may be added to it at
first with advantage. Half this quantity of gravy will be sufficient
for a single tureen, and the economist can diminish a little the pro-
portion of meat when it is thought too much.
PLAIN GRAVY FOR VENISON.
Trim away the fat from some cutlets, and lay them into a stewpan;
set them over a clear fire, and let them brown a little in their own
O??


100
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. IV.
gravy; then add a pint of boiling water to each pound of meat.
Take off the scum, throw in a little salt, and boil the gravy until
reduced one half. Some cooks broil the cutlets lightly, boil the
gravy one hour, and reduce it after it is strained.
For appropriate gravy to serve with venison, see “ Haunch of
Venison," Chapter XV.
A RICH GRAVY FOR VENISOX.
There are few eaters to whom this would be acceptable, the gene-
rality of them preferring infinitely the flavour of the venison itself
to any which the richest gravy made of other meats can afford; but
when the flavour of a well-made Espagnole is likely to be relished,
prepare it by the receipt of the following page, substituting plain
strong mutton stock for the veal gravy.
SWEET SAUCE, OR GRAVY FOR VENISON.
Add to a quarter-pint of common venison gravy a couple of glass
of port wine or claret, and half an ounce of sugar in lumps. Christo-
pher North's sauce, mixed with three times its measure of gravy,
would be an excellent substitute for this.
ESPAGNOLE (SPANISH SAUCE).
A highly-flavoured Gravy.
Dissolve a couple of ounces of good butter in a thick stewpan or
saucepan,
throw in from four to six sliced eschalots, four ounces of
the lean of an undressed ham, three ounces of carrot, cut in small
dice, one bay leaf, two or three branches of parsley, and one or two
of thyme, but these last must be small; three cloves, a blade of mace,
and a dozen corns of pepper ; add part of a root of parsley, if it be at
hand, and keep the whole stirred or shaken over a moderate fire for
twenty minutes, then add by degrees one pint of very strong real
stock or gravy, and stew the whole gently from thirty to forty
minutes; strain it, skim off the fat, and it will be ready to serve.
Butter, 2 oz.; eschalots, 4 to 6; lean of undressed ham, 4 oz.;
carrots, 3 oz.; bay leaf, 1; little thyme and parsley, in branches;
cloves, 3 ; mace, 1 blade ; peppercorns, 12 ; little parsley root : fried
gently, 20 minutes. Strong vcal stock, or gravy, 1 pint: stewed
very softly, 30 to 40 minutes.
ESPAGNOLE, WITH WINE.
Take the same proportions of ingredients as for the preceding
Espagnole, with the addition, if they should be at hand, of a dozen
small mushrooms prepared as for stewing ; when these have fried
gently in the stewpan until it appears of a reddish colour all round,
stir in a tablespoonful of flour, and when it is lightly browned, add
.


CUAP. IV.]
101
GRAVIES
in small portions, letting each one boil up before the next is poured
in, and shaking the pan well round, three quarters of a pint of hot and
goud veal gravy, and nearly half a pint of Madeira or sherry. When
the sauce has boiled gently for half an hour, add to it a small quan-
tity of cayenne and some salt, if this last be needed ; then strain it,
skim off the fat entirely should any appear upon the surface, and
serve it very hot. A smaller proportion of wine added a few minutes
before the sauce is ready for table, would perhaps better suit with
English taste, as with longer boiling its flavour passes off almost en-
tirely. Either of these Espagnoles, poured over the well bruised re-
mains of pheasants, partridges, or moor fowl, and boiled with them
for an hour, will become most admirable game gravy, and would gene-
rally be considered a superlative addition to other roast birds of their
kind, as well as to the hash or salmi, for which see Chapter XV.
Ingredients as in preceding receipt, with mushrooms 12 to 18;
Madeira, or good sherry, to pint.
JUS DES ROGNONS, OR, KIDNEY GRAVY.
Strip the skin and take the fat from three fresh mutton kidneys,
slice and flour them ; melt two ounces of butter in a deep saucepan,
and put in the kidneys, with an onion cut small, and a teaspoonful
of fine herbs stripped from the stalks. Keep these well shaken over
a clear fire until nearly all the moisture is dried up; then pour in a
pint of boiling water, add half a teaspoonful of salt, and a little cayenne
or common pepper, and let the gravy boil gently for an hour and a
half, or longer, if it be not thick and rich. Strain it through a
fine sieve, and take off the fat. Spice or catsup may be added at
pleasure.
Mutton kidneys, 3; butter, 2 oz.; onion, 1; fine herbs, 1 tea.
spoonful : 4 hour. Water, 1 pint; salt, į teaspoonful; little cayenne,
or black pepper : 11 hour.
Obs.—This is an excellent cheap gravy for haricots, curries, or
hashes of mutton ; it may be much improved by the addition of two
or three eschalots, and a small bit or two of lean meat.
GRAVY IN HASTE.
Chop fine a few bits of lean meat, a small onion, a few slices of
carrot and turnip, and a little thyme and parsley ; put these with half
an ounce of butter into a thick saucepan, and keep them stirred until
they are slightly browned ; add a little spice, and water in the propor-
tion of a pint to a pound of meat ; clear the gravy from scum, let it
boil half an hour, then strain it for use.
Meat, 1 lb. ; 1 small onion ; little carrot, turnip, thyme, and parsley ;
butter, 4 oz.; cloves, 6; corns of pepper, 12; water, 1 pint: 1 hour.
CHEAP GRAVY FOR A ROAST FOWL.
When there is neither broth nor gravy to be had, nor meat of
which either can be made, boil the neck of the fowl after having cut


102
[CHAP. IV.
MODERN COOKERY.
it small, in half a pint of water, with any slight seasonings of spice
or herbs, or with a little salt and pepper only ; it should stew very
softly for an hour or more, or the quantity will be too much redua
When the bird is just ready for table, take the gravy from the drip-
ping-pan, and drain off the fat from it as closely as possible; strain the
liquor from the neck to it, mixing them smoothly, pass the gravy
again through the strainer, heat it, add salt and pepper or cayenne, if
needed, and serve it extremely hot. When this is done, the fowl
should be basted with good butter only, and well floured when it is
first laid to the fire. Many cooks always mix the gravy from the pan
when game is roasted, with that which they send to table with it, as
they think that it enriches the flavour; but to many persons it is
peculiarly distasteful.
Neck of fowl; water, } pint; pepper, salt (little vegetable and
spice at choice): stewed gently, i hour; strained, stirred to the grary
of the roast, well cleared from fat.
ANOTHER CHEAP GRAVY FOR A FOWL.
A little good broth added to half a dozen dice of lean ham, lightly
browned in a morsel of butter, with half a dozen corns of pepper and
a small branch or two of parsley, and stewed for half an hour, will
make excellent gravy of a common kind. When there is no broth,
the neck of the chicken must be stewed down to supply its place.
GRAVY OR SAUCE FOR A Goose,
Mince, and brown in a small saucepan, with a slice of butter, two
ounces of mild onion, When it begins to brown, stir to it a tea-
spoonful of flour, and in five or six minutes afterwards, pour in by
degrees the third of a pint of good brown gravy; let this simmer
fifteen minutes ; strain it, bring it again to the point of boiling.
and add to it a teaspoonful of made mustard mixed well with a glass
of port wine. Season it with cayenne and pepper and salt, if
this last be needed. Do not let the sauce boil after the wine is
added, but serve it very
hot.
Onions, 2 oz.; butter, 1} oz.: 10 to 15 minutes. Flour, 1 tea-
spoonful : 5 to 6 minutes. Gravy, s pint : 15 minutes. Mustard, 1
teaspoonful; port wine, 1 glassful; cayenne pepper; salt. See also
Christopher North's own sauce.
ORANGE GRAVY FOR WILD FOWL.
Boil for about ten minutes, in half a pint of rich and highly-
flavoured brown gravy, or Espagnole, half the rind of a Seville
orange, pared as thin as possible, and a small strip of lemon-rind,
with a bit of sugar the size of a hazel-nut. Strain it off, add to it a
quarter pint of port or claret, the juice of half a lemon, and a table-
spoonful of Seville orange-juice : season it with cayenne, and serve it
as hot as possible.


CHAP. IV.]
103
GRAVIES.
Gravy, $ pint; } the rind of a Seville orange; lemon-peel, 1 small
strip; sugar, size of hazel-nut: 10 minutes. Juice of a lemon ;
Seville orange-juice, 1 tablespoonful; cayenne. See also Christopher
North's own sauce.
MEAT JELLIES FOR PIES AND SAUCES.
1
A very firm meat jelly is easily made by stewing slowly down equal
parts of ship of beef, and knuckle or neck of veal, with a pint of co
water to each pound of meat; but to give it flavour, some thick
slices of lean unboiled ham should be added to it, two or three
carrots, some spice, a bunch of parsley, one mild onion, or more, and
a moderate quantity of salt; or part of the meat may be omitted, and
a call's head, or the scalp of one, very advantageously substituted
for it, though the flavouring must then be heightened, because,
though very gelatinous, these are in themselves exceedingly insipid
to the taste. If rapidly boiled, the jelly will not be clear, and it will
be difficult to render it so without clarifying it with the whites of
eggs, which it ought never to require ; if very gently stewed, on the
contrary, it will only need to be passed through a fine sieve, or cloth.
The fat must be carefully removed, after it is quite cold. The shin
of beef recommended for this and other receipts, should be from the
middle of the leg of young heifer beef, not of that which is large and
Middle of small shin of beef, 3 lbs.; knuckle or neck of veal, 3
Ibs.; lean of ham, 1 lb.; water, 3 quarts; carrots, 2 large, or 3 small;
bunch of parsley; I mild onion, stuck with 8 cloves; 2 small bay-
leaves ; 1 large blade of mace; small saltspoonful of peppercorns ;
salt, 1 oz. (more if needed): 5 to 6 hours' very gentle stewing.
Obs.-A finer jelly may be made by using larger proportion
of veal than of beef, and by adding clear beef or veal broth to it in-
stead of water, in a small proportion at first, as directed in the receipt
for consommé, see page 98, and by pouring in the remainder wlien
the meat is heated through. The necks of poultry, any inferior
joints of them omitted from a fricassee or other dish, or an old fowl,
will further improve it much; an eschalot or two may at choice
be boiled down in it, instead of the onion, but the flavour should
be scarcely perceptible.
coarse.
A CHEAPER MEAT JELLY.
One calf's foot, a pound and a half or two pounds of neck of veal or
beef, a small onion, a carrot, a bunch of parsley, a little spice, a bit or
two of quite lean ham, dressed or undressed, and five half pints of
water, boiled very slowly for five or six hours will give a strong,
though not a higily-flavoured jelly. More ham, any bones of unboiled
meat, poultry, or game will, in this respect, improve it; and the
liquor in which fowls or veal have been boiled for table should, when


101
[CHAP. IT.
MODERN COOKERY.
At hand, be used for it instead of water. These jellies keep much
better and longer when no vegetables are stewed down in them.
GLAZE.
This is merely strong, clear gravy or jelly boiled quickly down to
the consistence of thin cream; but this reduction must be carefas
managed that the glaze may be brought to the proper point witbuat
being burned; it must be attentively watched, and stirred without
being quitted for a moment from the time of its beginning to thicket;
when it has reached the proper degree of boiling, it will jeily i
dropping from the spoon, like preserve, and should then be poured
out immediately, or it will burn. When wanted for use, melt is
gently by placing the vessel which contains it (see article Glazinj.
Chapter IX.) in a pan of boiling water, and with a paste-brush lay it
on to the meat, upon which it will form a sort of clear varuish. In
consequence of the very great reduction wbich it undergoes, salt should
be added to it sparingly when it is made. Any kind of stock may be
boiled down to glaze; but unless it be strong, a pint will afford but a
spoonful or two: a small quantity of it, however, is generally suf-
ficient, unless a large repast is to be served. Two or three layirs
must be given to each joint. Th jellies which precede this will
answer for it extremely well; and it may be made also with shin of
beef stock, for common occasions, when no other is at hand.
ASPIC, OR CLEAR SAVOURY-JELLY.
Boil a couple of calf's feet, with three or four pounds of knoekle
of veal, three quarters of a pound of lean ham, two large oniatis,
three whole carrots, and a large bunch of herbs, in a gallon of water,
till it is reduced more than half. Strain it off; when perfectly colu,
remove every particle of fat and sediment, and put the jelly into a
very clean stewpan, with four whites of eggs well beaten ; keep is
stirred until it is nearly boiling; then place it by the side of the fire
to simmer for a quarter of an hour. Let it settle, and pour it through
a jelly-bag until it is quite clear. Add, when it first begins to boil
,
three blades of mace, a teaspoonful of white peppercorns, and suf-
ficient salt to flavour it properly, allowing for the ham, and the
reduction. French cooks favour this jelly with tarrugon vinegar
when it is clarified ; cold poultry, game, tish, plovers' eggs, truffles,
and various dressed vegetables, with many other things often elabo-
rately prepared, and higlıly ornamental, are moulded and served in it,
especially at large dejeuners and similar repasts. It is also inuch
used to decorate raised pies, and hams; and for many other purposes
of the table.
Calf's feet, 2; veal, 4 lbs. ; ham, lb.; onions, 2; carrots, 3;
herbs, large bunch; mace, 3 blades ; white whole pepper, 1 teaspoon-
ful; water, 1 gallon : 5 to 6 hours. Whites of eggs, 4: 16 minutes.


CHAP v.]
105
SAUCES.
CHAPTER V.
Sauces.
INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.
The difference between good
and bad cookery can scarcely
be more strikingly shown
th in the manner in which
saucesareprepared and served.
If well made, appropriate to
the dishes they accompany,
and sent to table with them as
hot as possible, they not only
Bain Marie, or Water Bath.
give a heightened relish to a
dinner, but they prove that both skill and taste have been exerted in
its arrangements. When coarsely or carelessly prepared, on the con-
trary, as they too often are, they greatly discredit the cook, and are
anything but acceptable to the eaters. Melted butter, the most
common of all-the “one sauce of England," as it is called by
foreigners, and which forms in reality the basis of a large number of
those which are served in this country—is often so ill prepared, being
either oiled or lumpy, or composed principally of flour and water,
that it says but little for the state of cookery amongst us. We trust
that the receipts in the present chapter are so far clearly given, that
if strictly followed they will materially assist the learner in preparing
tolerably palatable sauces at the least. The cut at the commencement
of the chapter exhibits a vessel called a bain marie, in which sauce-
pans are placed when it is necessary to keep their contents hot with-
out allowing them to boil : it is extremely useful when dinners are
delayed after they are ready to serve.
TO THICKEN SAUCES.
When this is done with the yolks of eggs, they should first be well
beaten, and then mixed with a spoonful of cold stock should it be at
hand, and with one or two of the boiling sauce, which should be


106
[CHAP. F.
MODERN COOKERY.
stirred very quickly to them, and they must in turn be stirred briskly
to the sauce, which may be held over the fire, and well shaken for
an instant afterwards, but never placed upon it, nor allowed to
boil.
To the roux or French thickening (which follows), the gravy o
other liquid which is to be mixed with it should be poured boiling
and in small quantities, the saucepan being often well shaken round.
and the sauce made to boil up after each portion is added. If this
precaution be observed, the butter will never float upon the surface,
but the whole will be well and smoothly blended : it will otherwise
be difficult to clear the sauce from it perfectly.
For invalids, or persons who object to butter in their soups or
sauces, flour only mixed to a smooth batter, and stirred into the
boiling liquid may be substituted for other thickening: arrowToM
also used in the same way, will answer even better than flour.
FRENCII THICKENING, OR BROWN ROUX.
For ordinary purposes this may be made as it is wanted for use;
but when it is required for various dishes at the same time or for
cookery upon a large scale, it can be prepared at once in sufficient
quantity to last for several days, and it will remain good for some
time. Dissolve, with a very gentle degree of heat, half a pound
of good butter, then draw it from the fire, skim it well, give time
for it to settle, pour it gently from the sediment into a very clean
frying-pan, and place it over a slow but clear fire. Put into a
dredging box about seven ounces of fine dry flour; add it gradually
to the butter, shake the pan often as it is thrown in, and keep the
thickening constantly stirred until it has acquired a clear light brown
colour. It should be very slowly and equally done, or its flarour
will be unpleasant. Pour it into a jar, and stir a spoonful or two as
it is needed into boiling soup or gravy. When the butter is not cla-
rified it will absorb an additional ounce of flour, the whole of which
ought to be fine and dry. This thickening may be made in a well-
tinned stewpan even better than in a frying-pan, and if simmered orer
a coal fire it should be placed high above it, and well guarded from
smoke.
WHITE ROUX, OR FRENCH THICKENING.
Proceed exactly as for the preceding receipt, but dredge in the
flour as soon as the butter is in full simmer, and be careful not to
allow the thickening to take the slightest colour: this is used for
white gravies or sauces.
SAUCE TOURNÉE, OR PALE THICKENED GRAVY.
Sauce tournée is nothing more than rich pale grary made with
veal or poultry (see Consommé, Chapter IV.) and thickened with deli-


CHAP. v.]
107
SAUCES.
cate white roux. The French give it a flavouring of mushrooms and
green onions, by boiling some of each in it for about half an hour
before the sauce is served: it must then be strained, previously to
being dished. Either first dissolve an ounce of butter, and then
dredge gradually to it three-quarters of an ounce of flour, and pro-
ceed as for the preceding receipt; or blend the flour and butter per-
fectly with a knife before they are thrown into the stewpan, and keep
them stirred without censing over a clear and gentle fire until they
have simmered for some minutes, then place the stewpan high over
the fire, and shake it constantly until the roux has lost the raw taste
of the flour ; next, stir very gradually to it a pint of the gravy, which
should be boiling. Set it by the side of the stove for a few minutes,
skim it thoroughly, and serve it without delay.
Butter, 1 oz.; flour, oz.; strong pale gravy, seasoned with
mushrooms and green onions, 1 pint.
Obs. 3.–With the addition of three or four yolks of very fresh
eggs, mixed with a seasoning of mace, cayenne, and lemon-juice, this
becomes German sauce, now much used for fricassees, and other
dishes; and minced parsley (boiled) and chili vinegar, each in suf-
ficient quantity to flavour it agreeably, convert it into a good fish
sauce.
BÉCHAMEL.
This is a fine French white sauce, now very much served at good
English tables. It may be made in various ways, and more or less
expensively; but it should always be thick, smooth, and rich, though
delicate in flavour. The most ready mode of preparing it is to take
an equal portion of very strong, pale veal gravy, and of good cream
(a pint of each for example), and then, by rapid boiling over a very
clear fire, to reduce the gravy nearly half; next, to mix with part
of the cream a tablespoonful of fine dry flour, to pour it to the re-
mainder, when it boils, and to keep the whole stirred for five minutes
or more over a slow fire, for if placed upon a fierce one it would be
liable to burn; then to add the gravy, to stir and mix the sauce per-
fectly, and to simmer it for a few minutes longer. All the flavour
should be given by the gravy, in which French cooks boil a handful
of mushrooms, a few green onions, and some branches of parsley be-
fore it is reduced: but a good béchamel may be made without
them, with a strong consommé (see pale veal gravy, page 98) well
reduced.
Strong pale real gravy (flavoured with mushrooms or not), 1
pint : reduced half. Rich cream, 1 pint; flour, 1 tablespoonful : 5
minutes. With gravy, 4 or 5 minutes.
068.-Velouté, which is a rather thinner sauce or gravy, is made by
simply well reducing the cream and stock separately, and then
mixing them together without any thickening.


108
[CHAP. V.
MODERN COOKERY.
BÉCHAMEL MAIGRE.
(A cheap White Sauce.)
A good béchamel may be made entirely without meat, when eco-
nomy is an object, or when no gravy is at hand. Put into a stewpan,
or a well-tinned and thick saucepan, with from two to three oudees
of butter, a carrot, and a couple of small onions, cut in slices, with
a handful of nicely-cleaned mushroom buttons, when these last can
be easily procured ; and when they have stewed slowly for half an
hour, or until the butter is nearly dried up, stir in two tablespoonsfal
of flour, and pour in a pint of new milk, a little at a time, shaking
the stewpan well round, that the sauce may be smooth. Boil the
béchamel gently for half an hour; add a little salt, and cayenne;
strain, and reduce it, if not quite thick, or pour it boiling to the
yolks of two fresh eggs.
ANOTHER COMMON BÉCHAMEL,
Cut half a pound of veal, and a slice of lean ham or smoked beef,
into small dice, and stew them in butter, with vegetables, as directed
in the foregoing
ipt: stir in the same proportion of flour, then
add the milk, and let the sauce boil very gently for an hour. It
should not be allowed to thicken too much before it is strained
Obs.-Common béchamel, with the addition of a spoonful of made-
mustard, is an excellent sauce for boiled mutton.
RICH MELTED BUTTER.
This is more particularly required in general for lobster sauce,
when it is to be served with turbot or brill, and for good oyster
Salmon is itself so rich, that less butter is needed for it than
for sauce which is to accompany a drier fish. Mix to a very smooth
batter a dessertspoonful of flour, a half-saltspoonful of salt, and half
a pint of cold water : put these into a delicately clean saucepan, with
from four to six ounces of well-flavoured butter, cut into small bits,
and shake the sauce strongly round, almost without cessation, until
the ingredients are perfectly blended, and it is on the point of
boiling ; let it simmer for two or three minutes, and it will be ready
for use.
The best French cooks recommend its not being allowed to
boil, as they say it tastes less of flour if served when it is just at the
point of simmering.
Cold water, & pint; salt, t spoonful; flour, 1 dessertspoonful: S to
4 minutes. Butter, 4 to 6 oz.
sauce.
MELTED BUTTER,
(A good common Receipt.)
Put into a basin a large teaspoonful of flour, and a little salt, then
mix with tnem very gradually and very smoothly a quarter of a pint


CHAP. v.]
SAUCES.
109
of cold water; turn these into a small clean saucepan, and shake or
stir them constantly over a clear fire until they have boiled a couple
of minutes, then add an ounce and a half of butter cut small, keep
the sauce stirred until this is entirely dissolved, give the whole à
minute's boil, and serve it quickly. The more usual mode is to
put the butter in at first with the flour and water; but for inex-
perienced or unskilful cooks the safer plan is to follow the present
receipt.
Water, & pint; flour, 1 teaspoonful : 2 minutes. Butter, 1} oz.:
1 minute.
Obs.- To render this a rich sauce, increase or even double the
proportion of butter.
FRENCH MELTED BUTTER.
Pour half a pint of good but not very thick, boiling melted butter
to the well-beaten yolks of two or three fresh eggs, and stir them
briskly as it is added; put the sauce again into the saucepan, and
shake it high over the fire for an instant, but do not allow it to boil
or it will curdle. Add a little lemon-juice or vinegar, and serve it
immediately.
NORFOLK SAUCE, OR RICH MELTED BUTTER WITHOUT FLOUR.
Put three tablespoonsful of water into a small saucepan, and when
it boils add four ounces of fresh butter; as soon as this is quite dis-
solved, take the saucepan from the fire, and shake it round until the
sauce looks thick and smooth. It must not be allowed to boil after
the butter is added.
Water, 3 tablespoonsful; butter, 4 oz.
WHITE MELTED BUTTER.
Thicken half a pint of new milk with rather less flour than is die
rected for the common melted butter, or with a little arrowroot, and
stir into it by degrees after it has boiled, a couple of ounces of
fresh butter cut small; do not cease to stir the sauce until this is
entirely dissolved, or it may become oiled, and float upon the top.
Thin cream, substituted for the milk, and flavoured with a few
strips of lemon-rind cut extremely thin, some salt, and a small quan-
tity of pounded mace, if mixed with rather less flour, and the same
proportion of butter, will make an excellent sauce to serve with
fowls or other dishes, when no gravy is at hand to make white sauce
in the usual way.
BURNT OR BROWNED BUTTER.
Melt in a frying-pan three ounces of fresh butter, and keep it
stirred slowly over a gentle fire until it is of a dark brown colour;
then pour to it a couple of tablespoonsful of good hot vinegar, and


110
[CHAP. T.
MODERN COOKERY.
season it with black pepper and a little salt. In France this is a
favourite sauce with boiled skate, which is served with plenty o
crisped parsley, in addition, strewed over it. It is also often poured
over poached eggs there : it is called beurre noir.
Butter, 3 oz.; vinegar, 2 tablespoonsful; pepper; salt.
CLARIFIED BUTTER.
Put the butter into a very clean and well-tinned saucepan ar
enamelled stewpan, and melt it gently over a clear fire; when it just
begins to simmer, skim it thoroughly, draw it from the fire, and let it
stand a few minutes that the butter-milk may sink to the bottom;
then pour it clear of the sediment through a muslin strainer or a fine
hair-sieve; put it into jars, and store them in a cool place. Butta
thus prepared will answer for all the ordinary purposes of cookery,
and remain good for a great length of time. In France, large quan.
tities are melted down in autumn for winter use. The clarified
butter ordered for the various receipts in this volume, is merely dis-
solved with a gentle degree of heat in a small saucepan, skimmet,
and poured out for use, leaving the thick sediment behind.
VERY GOOD EGG SAUCE.
Boil four fresh eggs for quite fifteen minutes, then lay them into
plenty of fresh water, and let them vemain until they are perfectly
cold. Break the shells by rolling them on a table, take them off,
separate the whites from the yolks, and divide all of the latter into
quarter-inch dice; mince two of the whites tolerably small, mix them
lightly, and stir them into the third of a pint of rich melted butter
or of white sauce : serve the whole as hot as possible.
Eggs, 4: boiled 15 minutes, left till cold. The yolks of all, whites
of 2; third of pint of good melted butter or white sauce.
Salt is
needed.
SAUCE OF TURKEYS' EGGS.
(Excellent.)
The eggs of the turkey make a sauce much superior to those of the
common fowl. They should be gently boiled in plenty of water for
twenty minutes. The yolks of three, and the whites of one and a
half, will make a very rich sauce if prepared by the directions of the
foregoing receipt. The eggs of the guinea fowl also may be converted
into a similar sauce with ten minutes' boiling. Their delicate size
will render it necessary to increase the number taken for it.
COMMON EGG SAUCE.
Boil a couple of eggs hard, and when quite cold cut the whites and
yolks separately; mix them well, put them into a very hot tureen,


CITAP. v.]
111
SAUCES.
and pour boiling to them a quarter of a pint of melted butter : stir,
and serve the sauce immediately.
Whole eggs, 2; melted butter, #pint.
EGG SAUCE FOR CALF'S HEAD.
This is a provincial sauce, served sometimes with fish, and with
calf's head likewise. Thicken to the proper consistence with flour
and butter some good pale veal gravy, throw into it when it boils
from one to two large teaspoonsful of minced parsley, add a slight
squecze of lemon-juice, a little cayenne, and then the eggs.
Veal gravy, i pint; flour, 1} oz.; butter, 2 oz.; minced parsley, 1
dessertspoonful; lemon-juice, 1 teaspoonful; little cayenne; eggs,
3 to 4.
ENGLISII WHITE SAUCE.
Boil softly in half a pint of well-flavoured pale veal gravy a few
very thin strips of fresh lemon-rind, for just sufficient time to give
their flavour to it; stir in a thickening of arrow-root, or of flour and
butter, add salt if needed, and mix with the gravy a quarter of a
pint of boiling cream. For the best kind of white sauce, see béchamel.
Good pale veal gravy, pint; third of 1 lemon-rind : 15 to 20
minutes. Freshly pounded mace, third of saltspoonful; butter, 1 to
2 oz.; flour, 1 teaspoonful (or arrow-root an equal quantity); cream,
4 pint.
VERY COMMON WIIITE SAUCE.
The neck and the feet of a fowl, nicely cleaned, and stewed down
in half a pint of water, until it is reduced to less than a quarter of
a pint, with a thin strip or two of lemon-rind, a small blade of mace,
a small branch or two of parsley, a little salt, and half a dozen corns
of pepper, then strained, thickened, and flavoured by the preceding re-
ceipt, and mixed with something more than half the quantity of cream,
will answer for this sauce extremely well; and if it be added, when
made, to the liver of the chicken, previously boiled for six minutes in
the gravy, then bruised to a smooth paste, and passed through a sieve,
an excellent liver sauce. A little strained lemon-juice is generally
added to it when it is ready to serve: it should be stirred very
briskly in.
DUTCH SAUCE,
Put into a small saucepan the yolks of three fresh eggs, the juice
of a large lemon, three ounces of butter, a little salt and nutmeg, and
a wineglassful of water. Hold the saucepan over a clear fire, and
keep the sauce stirred until it nearly boils: a little cayenne may be
added. The safest way of making all sauces that will curdle by being
allowed to boil, is to put them into a jar, and to set the jar over the


112
{CHAP.
MODERN COOKERY.
fire in a saucepan of boiling water, and then to stir the ingredients
constantly until the sauce is thickened sufficiently to serve.
Yolks of eggs, 3; juice, 1 lemon; butter, 3 oz.; little salt and
nutmeg ; water, 1 wineglassful : cayenne at pleasure.
Obs.-A small cupful of veal gravy, mixed with plenty of blanched
and chopped parsley, may be used instead of water for this sauce,
when it is to be served with boiled veal, or with calf's head.
FRICASSEE SAUCE.
Stir briskly, but by degrees, to the well-beaten yolks of two large
or of three small fresh eggs, half a pint of common English white
sauce ; put it again into the saucepan, give it a shake over the fire,
but be extremely careful not to allow it to boil, and just before it is
served stir in a dessertspoonful of strained lemon-juice. When meat
or chickens are fricasseed, they should be lifted from the saucera
with a slice, drained on it from the sauce, and laid into a very bot
dish before the eggs are added, and when these are just set, the sauce
should be poured on them.
BREAD SAUCE.
Pour quite boiling, on half a pint of the finest bread crumbs, ao
equal measure of new milk; cover them closely with a plate, and let
the sauce remain for twenty or thirty minutes ; put it then into a
delicately clean saucepan, with a small saltspoonful of salt, half
as much pounded mace, a little cayenne, and about an ounce of
fresh butter; keep it stirred constantly over a clear fire for a few
minutes, then mix with it a couple of spoonsful of good cream, gise it
a boil, and serve it immediately. When cream is not to be bad, an
additional spoonful or two of milk must be used. The bread used for
sauce should be stale, and lightly grated down into extremely small
crumbs, or the preparation will look rough when sent to table. Not
only the crust, but all heavy-looking or imperfectly baked portions of
it, should be entirely pared off, and it should be pressed against the
grater only so much as will reduce it easily into crumbs. When stale
bread cannot be procured, the new should be sliced thin, or broken up
small, and beaten quite smooth with a fork after it has been soaked.
As some will absorb more liquid than others, the cook must increase
a little the above proportion should it be needed. Equal parts of
milk and of thin cream make an excellent bread sauce : more butter
can be used to enrich it when it is liked.
Bread-crumbs and new milk, each s pint (or any other measure);
goaked 20 to 30 minutes, or more, Salt, small saltspoonful ; mace,
half as much ; little cayenne; butter, 1 oz.; boiled 4 to 5 minutes.
2 to 4 spoonsful of good cream (or milk): 1 minute. Or: bread.
crumbs, į pint; milk and cream, each : pint; and from 2 to 4 spoons-
ful of either in addition.


CHAP. v.]
113
SAUCES
Obs.–Very pale, strong veal gravy is sometimes poured on the
bread crumbs, instead of milk; and these, after being soaked, are
boiled extremely dry, and then brought to the proper consistence
with rich cream. The gravy may be highly flavoured with mush-
rooms when this is done.
BREAD SAUCE WITH ONION.
Put into a very clean saucepan nearly half a pint of fine bread-
crumbs, and the white part of a large mild onion cut into quarters; pour
to these three-quarters of a pint of new milk, and boil them very
gently, keeping them often stirred until the onion is perfectly tender,
which will be in from forty minutes to an hour. Press the whole
through a hair-sieve, which should be as clean as possible ; reduce the
sauce by quick boiling should it be too thin ; add a seasoning of salt
and grated nutmeg, an ounce of butter, and four spoonsful of cream;
and when it is of a proper thickness, dish, and send it quickly to
table.
Bread-crumbs, nearly } pint; white part of 1 large mild onion ;
new milk, i pint: 40 to 60 minutes. Seasoning of salt and grated
nutmeg; butter, 1 oz.; cream, 4 tablespoonsful: to be boiled till of a
proper consistence.
Obs.-This is an excellent sauce for those who like & subdued
flavour of onion in it; but as many persons object to any, the cook
should ascertain whether it be liked before she follows this receipt.
COMMON LOBSTER SAUCE.
Add to half a pint of good melted butter a tablespoonful of essence
of anchovies, a small half-saltspoonful of freshly pounded mace, and
less than a quarter one of cayenne. If a couple of spoonsful of cream
should be at hand, stir them to the sauce when it boils; then put in
the flesh of the tail and claws of a small lobster cut into dice (or any
other form) of equal size. Keep the saucepan by the side of the fire
until the fish is quite heated through, but do not let the sauce boil
again : serve it very hot. A small quantity can be made on occasion
with the remains of a lobster which has been served at table.
Melted butter, pint; essence of anchovies, 1 tablespoonful ;
pounded mace, small saltspoonful ; less than one of cayenne ;
cream (if added), 2 tablespoonsful ; flesh of small lobster.
GOOD LOBSTER SAUCE.
Select for this a perfectly fresh ben lobster ; split the tail carefully,
and take out the inside coral ; pound half of it in a mortar very
smoothly with less than an ounce of butter, rub it through a hair-
sieve, and put it aside. Cut the firm flesh of the fish into dice of not
less than half an inch in size; and when these are ready, make its
I


114
[CHAP. V.
MODERN COOKERY.
much good melted butter as will supply the quantity of sance required
for table, and if to be served with a turbot or other large fish to a
numerous company, let it be plentifully provided. Season it slightly
with essence of anchovies, and well with cayenne, mace, and salt; add
to it a few spoonsful of rich cream, and then mix a small portion of
it very gradually with the pounded coral; when this is sufficienty
liquefied pour it into the sauce, and stir the whole well together; put
in immediately the flesh of the fish, and heat the sauce thoroughly by
the side of the fire without allowing it to boil, for if it should do so
its fine colour would be destroyed. The whole of the coral may be
used for the sauce when no portion of it is required for other pur.
poses.
CRAB SAUCE.
The flesh of a fresh well-conditioned crab of moderate size is more
tender and delicate than that of a lobster, and may be converted into
an excellent fish sauce. Divide it into small flakes, and add it to
some good melted butter, which has been flavoured as for either of
the sauces above. A portion of the cream contained in the fish rray
first be smoothly mingled with the sauce.
GOOD OYSTER SAUCE.
At the moment they are wanted for use, open three dozen of fine
plump native oysters; save carefully and strain their liquor, rinse
them separately in it, put them into a very clean saucepan, strain the
liquor again, and pour it to them; licat them slowly, and keep
them from one to two minutes at the simmering point, withoat
allowing them to boil, as that will render them hard. Lift them out
and beard them neatly; add to the liquor three ounces of butter
smoothly mixed with a large dessertspoonful of flour; stir these with-
out ceasing until they boil, and are perfectly mixed; then add to them
gradually a quarter of a pint, or rather more, of new milk, or of thin
cream (or equal parts of both), and continue the stirring until the
sauce boils again; add a little salt, should it be needed, and a small
quantity of cayenne in the finest powder; put in the oysters, and keep
the saucepan by tlie side of the fire until the whole is thoroughly
lot and begins to simmer, then turn the sauce into a well-heated
tureen, and send it immediately to table.
Small plump oysters, 3 dozen ; butter, 3 oz. ; flour, 1 large des.
sertspoonful; the oyster liquor; milk or cream, full | pint; little
salt and cayenne.
COMMON OYSTER SAUCE.
Prepare and plump two dozen of oysters as directed in the receipt
above; add their strained liquor to a quarter of a pint of thick melted
butter made with milk, or with half milk and half water ; stir the


CHAI. v.]
115
SAUCES.
whole until it boils, put in the oysters, and when they are quite heated
through send the sauce to table without delay. Some persons like a
little cayenne and essence of anchovies added to it when it is served
with fish; others prefer the unmixed flavour of the oysters.
Oysters, 2 dozens; their liquor; melted butter, pint. (Little
cayenne and I dessertspoonful of essence of anchovies when liked.)
SHRIMP SAUCE.
The fish for this sauce should be very fresh. Shell quickly one
pint of shrimps and mix them with half a pint of melted butter, to
which a few drops of essence of anchovies and a little mace and
cayenne have been added. As soon as the shrimps are heated through,
dish, and serve the sauce, which ought not to boil after they are put
in. Many persons add a few spoonsful of rich cream to all shell-fish
Shrimps, 1 pint; melted butter, } pint; essence of anchovies, 1 tea-
spoonful; mace, 1 teaspoonful; cayenne, very little.
sauces.
ANCHOVY SAUCE.
To half a pint of good melted butter add three dessertspoonsful of
essence of anchovies, a quarter of a teaspoonful of mace, and a rather
high seasoning of cayenne; or pound the flesh of two or three fine
mellow anchovies very smooth, mix it with the boiling butter, simmer
these for a minute or two, strain the sauce if needful, add the spices,
give it a boil, and serve it.
Melted butter, pint; essence of anchovies, 3 dessertspoonsful ;
mace, 1 teaspoonful; cayenne, to taste. Or, 3 large anchovies finely
pounded, and the same proportions of butter and spice.
CREAM SAUCE FOR FISH.
Knead very smoothly together with a strong-bladed knife, a large
teaspoonful of flour with three ounces of good butter; stir them in a
very clean saucepan or stewpan over a gentle fire until the butter is
dissolved, then throw in a little salt and some cayenne, give the whole
one minute’s simmer, and add, very gradually, half a pint of good
cream; keep the sauce constantly stirred until it boils, then mix with
it a dessertspoonful of essence of anchovies, and half as much chili
vinegar or lemon-juice. The addition of shelled shrimps or lobsters
cut in dice, will convert this at once into a most excellent sauce of
either. Pounded mace may be added to it with the cayenne; and it
may be thinned with a few spoonsful of milk should it be too thick.
Omit the essence of anchovies, and mix with it some parsley boiled
very green and minced, and it becomes a good sauce for poultry.
Butter, 3 oz.; ficur, 1 large teaspoonful : 2 to 3 minutes. Cream,
pint; essence of anchovies, 1 large dessertspoonful (more if liked);
chili vinegar or lemon juice, 1 teaspoonful; salt, 1 saltspoonful.


116
[CHAP. V.
MODERN COOKERT.
SHARP MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE.
(English Receipt.)
For a rich sauce of this kind, mix a dessertspoonful of flour with
four ounces of good butter, but with from two to three ounces only for
common occasions ; knead them together until they resemble a smooth
paste, then proceed exactly as for the sauce abore, but substitute good
pale veal gravy, or strong, pure-flavoured veal broth, or shin of beef
stock (which if well made has little colour), for the cream; and when
these have boiled for two or three minutes, stir in a tablespoonful of
common vinegar and one of chili vinegar, with as much cayeune as
will flavour the sauce well, and some salt, should it be needed; throw
in from two to three dessertspoonsful of finely-minced parsley, give
the whole a boil, and it will be ready to serve. A tablespoonful of
mushroom catsup or of Harvey's sauce may be added with the vinegar
when the colour of the sauce is immaterial. It may be served with
boiled calf's head, or with boiled eels with good effect; and various
kinds of cold meat and fish may be re-warmed for table in it, as we
have directed in another part of this volume. With a little more
four, and a flavouring of essence of anchovies, it will make, without
the parsley, an excellent sauce for these last, when they are first
dressed.
Butter, 2 to 4 oz.; flour, 1 dessertspoonful; pale veal gravy or
strong broth, or shin of beef stock, , pint; cayenne; salt, if needed;
common vinegar, 1 tablespoonful; chili vinegar, 1 tablespoonful.
(Catsup or Harvey's sauce, according to circumstances.)
FRENCI MAITRE D'HOTEL,* OR STEWARD'S SAUCE.
Add to half a pint of rich, pale veal gravy, well thickened with the
white roux of page 108, a good seasoning of pepper, salt, minced parsley,
and lemon-juice; or make the thickening with a small tablespoonful
of flour, and a couple of ounces of butter; keep these stirred con-
stantly over a very gentle fire from ten to fifteen minutes, then pour
the gravy to them boiling, in small portions, mixing the whole well as
it is added, and letting it boil up between ench, for unless this be done
the butter will be likely to float upon the surface. Simmer the sauce
for a few minutes, and skim it well, then add salt should it be needed,
a tolerable seasoning of pepper or of cayenne in fine powder, from
two to three teaspoonsful of minced parsley, and the strained juice of
a small lemon. For some dishes, this sauce is thickened with the
yolks of eggs, about four to the pint. The French work into their
sauces generally a small bit of fresh butter just before they are taken
from the fire, to give them mellowness : this is done usually for the
Maitre d'Hotel Sauce.
.
The Maltre d'Hotel is, properly, the House Steward


CHAP. v.]
117
SAUCES.
1
MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE MAIGRE,* OR WITHOUT GRAVY.
Substitute half a pint of good melted butter for the gravy, and add
to it the same seasonings as above. A double quantity of these sauces
will be needed when they are required to cover a large fish; in that
case they should be thick enough to adhere to it well.
Melted butter, ) pint; seasoning of salt and pepper, or cayenne;
minced parsley, 2 to 3 teaspoonsful; juice, 1 small lemon.
For Cold MAITRE V'HOTEL SAUCE, see Chapter VI
THE LADY'S SAUCE.
(For Fish.)
Pound to a very smooth paste the inside coral of a lobster with a
small slice of butter, and some cayenne; rub it through a hair-siere,
gather it together, and mix it very smoothly with from half to three-
quarters of a pint of sauce tournée or of cream fish-sauce, previously
well seasoned with cayenne and salt, and moderately with pounded
mace; bring it to the point of boiling only; stir in quickly, but
gradually, a tablespoonful of strained lemon-juice, and serve it very
hot. When neither cream nor gravy is at hand, substitute rich
melted butter mixed with a dessertspoonful or two of essence of an-
chovies, and well seasoned. The tine colour of the coral will be
destroyed by boiling. This sauce, which the French call Sauce à
l'Aurore, may be served with brill, boiled soles, gray mullet, and
some few other kinds of fish: it is quickly made when the lobster
butter of Chapter VI. is in the house.
Coral of lobster, pounded; cream sauce, or sauce tournée (thickened
pale veal gravy), ) to pint; lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful; salt,
cayenne, and mace, as needed. Or: rich melted butter, instead of
other sauce; essence of anchovies, 2 dessertspoonsful; other season.
ing, as above.
Obs. The proportion of spices here must, of course, depend on the
flavouring which the gravy or sauce may already have received.
GENEVESE SAUCE, OR SAUCE GÉNÉVOISE.
Cut into dice three ounces of the lean of a well-flavoured ham, ana
put them with half a small carrot, four cloves, a blade of mace, two
or three very small sprigs of lemon thyme and of parsley, and rather
more than an ounce of butter, into a stewpan; just simmer them from
three-quarters of an hour to a whole hour, then stir in a teaspoonful
of four; continue the slow stewing for about five minutes, and pour
in by degrees a pint of good boiling veal gravy, and let the sauce
again simmer softly for nearly an hour. Strain it off, heat it in a
clean saucepan, and when it boils, stir in a wineglassful and a half of
* Maigre, made without meat.


118
(CHAP. T.
MODERN COOKERY.
good sherry or Madeira, two tablespoonsful of lemon-juice, some
cayenne, a little salt if needed, and a small tablespoonful of four sers
smoothly mixed with two ounces of butter. Give the whole a bal
after the thickening is added, pour a portion of the sauce over the
fish (it is served principally with salmon and trout), and send the
remainder very hot to table in a tureen.
Lean of ham, 3 oz. ; small carrot; 4 to 6 cloves; mace, 1 large
blade; thyme and parsley, 3 or 4 small sprigs of each ; butter, 1 to
1} oz. : 50 to 60 minutes. Veal gravy, 1 pint: 1 to 1 hour. Sherry
or Madeira, 1$ glassful; lemon-juice, 2 tablespoonsful; seasoning of
cayenne and salt; flour, 1 tablespoonful; butter, 2 oz. : 1 minute.
Obs.-A teaspoonful or more of essence of anchovies is usually
added to the sauce, though it is scarcely required.
SAUCE ROBERT.
Cut four or five large onions into small dice, and brown them in a
stewpan, with three ounces of butter and a dessertspoonful of flour.
When of a deep yellow brown, pour to them half a pint of beef or of
veal gravy, and let them simmer for fifteen minutes; skim the sauce,
add a seasoning of salt and pepper, and at the moment of serving, mix
a dessertspoonful of nade mustard with it.
Large onions, 4 or 5; butter, 3 oz.; flour, dessertspoonful:
10 to 15 minutes. Gravy, špint: 15 minutes. Mustard, dessert-
spoonful
SAUCE PIQUANTE.
Brown lightly in an ounce and a half of butter a tablespoonful of
minced eschalots or three of onions; add a teaspoonful of our when
they are partially done; pour to them half a pint of gravy or of good
broth, and when it boils add three chilies, a bay-leaf, and a very
small bunch of thyme. Let these simmer for twenty minutes; take
out the thyme and bay-leaf, add a bigh seasoning of black pepper,
and half a wineglassful of the best vinegar. A quarter of a teaspoon-
ful of cayenne may be substituted for the chilies.
Eschalots, 1 tablespoonful, or three of onions; four, 1 teaspoonful;
butter, 1} oz.: 10 to 15 minutes. Gravy or broth, pint; chilies, 3;
bay-leaf; thyme, small bunch: 20 minutes. Pepper, plenty;
vinegar, wineglassful.
EXCELLENT HORSERADISI SAUCE.
(To serve hot or cold with roast beef.)
Wash and wipe a stick of young horseradish, scrape off the outer
skin, grate it as small as possible on a fine grater, then with two ounces
(or a couple of large tablespoonsful) of it mix a small teaspoonful of
salt and 'four tablespoonsful of good cream ; stir in briskly, and by


CHAP. V.]
119
SAUCES.
degrees, three dessertspoonsful of vinegar, one of which should be
chili vinegar when the horseradish is mild.' To heat the sauce, put it
into a small and delicately clean saucepan, hold it over, but do not
place it upon the fire, and stir it without intermission until it is near
the point of simmering ; but do not allow it to boil, or it will curdle
instantly.
Horseradish pulp, 2 oz. (or 2 large tablespoonsful); salt, 1 tea-
spoonful; good cream, 4 tablespoonsful; vinegar, 3 dessertspoonsful
(of which one should be chili when the root is mild).
Obs.—Common English salad-mixture is often added to the grated
horseradish when the sauce is to be served cold.
HOT HORSERADISII SAUCE.
(To serve with boiled or stewed meat or fish.)
Mix three ounces of young tender grated horseradish with half a
pint of good brown gravy, and let it stand by the side of the fire until
it is on the point of boiling; add salt if required, a teaspoonful of
made mustard, and a dessertspoonful of garlic or of eschalot vinegar;
or the same quantity of chili vinegar, or twice as much cominon
vinegar.
Some cooks stew the horseradish in vinegar for ten minutes,
and, after having drained it from this, mix it with nearly half a pint
of thick melted butter.
Horseradish, grated, 3 oz. ; brown gravy, 3 pint; made mustard,
1 teaspoonful; eschalot or garlic vinegar, i dessertspoonful (or chili
vinegar, the same quantity, or common vinegar twice as much).
CHRISTOPHER NORTH'S OWN SAUCE FOR MANY MEATS.
Throw into a small basin a heaped saltspoonful of good cayenne
pepper, in very fine powder, and half the quantity of salt ;* add a
small dessertspoonful of well-refined, pounded, and sifted sugar;
mix these thoroughly; then pour in a tablespoonful of the strained
juice of a fresh lemon, two of Harvey's sauce, a teaspoonful of the
very best mushroom catsup (or of cavice), and a small wineglassful of
port wine. Heat the sauce by placing the basin in a saucepan of
boiling water, or turn it into a jar, and place this in the water. Serve
it directly it is ready with geese or ducks, tame or wild; roast pork,
renison, fawn, a grilled blade-bone, or any other broil. A slighi tla-
vour of garlic or eschalot vinegar may be given to it at pleasure.
Some persons eat it with fish. It is good cold; and, if bottled
directly it is made, may be stored for several days. It is the better
for being mixed some hours before it is served. The proportion of
cayenne may be doubled when a very pungent sauce is desired.
Characteristically, the salt of this sauce ought, perhaps, to prevail more
strongly over the sugar, but it will be found for most tastes sufficiently piquant as
it is,


120
[CHAP. V.
MODERN COOKERY.
Good cayenne pepper in fine powder, 1 heaped saltspoonful; salt,
half as much; pounded sugar, 1 small dessertspoonful; strained
lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful ; Harvey's sauce, 2 tablespoonsful; best
mushroom catsup (or cavice), 1 teaspoonful; port wine, 3 table-
spoonsful, or small wineglassful. (Little eschalct, or garlic vinegar
at pleasure.)
Obs.-This sauce is exceedingly good mixed with the brown gravy
of a hash or stew, or with that which is served with game or other
dishes.
GOOSEBERRY SAUCE FOR MACKEREL.
Cut the stalks and tops from half to a whole pint of quite young
gooseberries, wash them well, just cover them with cold water,
und boil them very gently indeed, until they are tender; drain
and mix them with a small quantity of melted butter, made with
rather less flour than usual. Some eaters prefer the mashed goose-
berries without any addition ; others like that of a little ginger.
The best way of making this sauce is to turn the gooseberries into a
hair-sieve to drain, then to press them through it with a wooden
spoon, and to stir them in a clean stewpan or saucepan over the fire
with from half to a whole teaspoonful of sugar, just to soften their
extreme acidity, and a bit of fresh butter about the size of a walnut.
When the fruit is not passed through the sieve it is an improvement
to seed it.
COMMON SORREL SAUCE.
Strip from the stalks and the large fibres, from one to a couple of
quarts of freshly-gathered sorrel; wash it very clean, and put it into
a well-tinned stew pan or saucepan (or into an enamelled one, which
would be far better), without any water; add to it a small slice of
good butter, some pepper and salt, and stew it gently, keeping it
well stirred until it is exceedingly tender, that it may not burn; then
drain it on a sieve, or press the liquid well from it; chop it as fine as
possible, and boil it again for a few minutes with a spoonful or two
of gravy, or the same quantity of cream or milk, mixed with a half-
teaspoonful of flour, or with only a fresh slice of good butter. The
beaten yolk of an egg or two stirred in just as the sorrel is taken
from the fire will soften the sauce greatly, and a saltspoonful of
pounded sugar will also be an improvement.
ASPARAGUS SAUCE, FOR LAMB CUTLETS.
Green cut the tender points of some young asparagus into half-inch
lengths, or into the size of peas only; wash them well, then drain
and throw them into plenty of boiling salt and water. When they
are quite tender, which may be in from ten to fifteen minutes, turn
them into a hot strainer and drain the water thoroughly from them;


CHAP v.]
121
SAUCES.
put them, at the instant of serving, into half a pint of thickened veal
gravy (see sauce tournée), mixed with the yolks of a couple of eggs,
and well seasoned with salt and cayenne, or white pepper, or into an
equal quantity of good melted butter : add to this last a squeeze of
lemon-juice. The asparagus will become yellow if reboiled, or if
left long in the sauce before it is served.
Asparagus points, 4 pint: boiled 10 to 15 minutes, longer if not
quite tender. Thickened veal gravy, pint; yolks of eggs, 2. Or:
good melted butter, $ pint; lemon-juice, smali dessertspoonful, sea-
soning of salt and white pepper.
CAPER SAUCE.
Stir into the third of a pint of good melted butter from three to
four dessertspoonsful of capers ; add a little of the vinegar, and dish
the sauce as soon as it boils. Keep it stirred after the berries are
added : part of them may be minced and a little chilí vinegar sub-
stituted for their own. Pickled nasturtiums make a very good sauce,
and their flavour is sometimes preferred to that of the capers. For
a large joint, increase the quantity of butter to half a pint.
Melted butter, third of pint; capers, 3 to 4 dessertspoonsful
BROWN CAPER SAUCE.
Thicken half a pint of good veal or beef gravy as directed for
sauce tournée, and add to it two tablespoonsful of capers, and a dessert-
spoonful of the pickle liquor, or of chili vinegar, with some cayenne
if the former be used, and a proper seasoning of salt.
Thickened veal, or beef gravy, ļ pint; capers, 2 tablespoonsful ;
caper liquor or chili vinegar, i dessertspoonful.
CAPER SAUCE FOR FISH.
To nearly half a pint of very rich melted butter add six spoonsful
of strong veal gravy or jelly, a tablespoonful of essence of anchovies,
and some chili vinegar or cayenne, and from two to three tablespoons-
ful of capers. When there is no gravy at hand substitute a half
wineglassful of mushroom catsup, or of Harvey's sauce; though
these deepen the colour more than is desirable.
COMMON CUCUMBER SAUCE,
Pare, slice, dust slightly with pepper and with flour, two or three
young cucumbers, and fry them a fine brown in a little butter, or
dissolve an ounce and a half in a small stewpan or iron sauce-
pan, and shake them in it over a brisk fire from twelve to fifteen
minutes ; pour to them by degrees nearly half a pint of strong beef
broth, or of brown gravy; add salt, and more pepper if required ;


122
(CHAP. Y.
MODERN COOKERY.
stew the whole for five minutes, and send the sauce very hot to table.
A miuced onion may be browned with the cucumbers when is
is liked, and a spoonful of vinegar added to them before they are
served.
Cucumbers, 2 or 3; butter, 1. oz.; broth or gravy, nearly s pint:
salt, pepper.
ANOTHER COMMON SACCE OF CUCUMBERS.
Cucumbers which have the fewest seeds are best for this sanee.
Pare and slice two or three, should they be small, and put them into a
saucepan, in which two ounces, or rather more, of butter hare beca
dissolved, and are beginning to boil; place them high over the fire,
that they may stew as softly as possible, without taking colour, for
three-quarters of an hour, or longer should they require it ; add to
them a good seasoning of white pepper and some salt, when they are
half done; and just before they are served stir to them half a tes.
spoonful of flour, mixed with a morsel of butter; strew in some
minced parsley, give it a boil, and finish with a spoonful of good
vinegar.
WUITE CUCUMBER SAUCE.
Quarter some young quickly-grown cucumbers, without many
seeds in them; empty them of these, and take off the rinds. Cut
them into inch lengths, and boil them from fifteen to eighteen minutes
in salt and water; press the water from them with the back of a
spoon, and work them through a sieve; mix them with a few spoons-
ful of béchamel, or thick white sauce; do not let them boil again, but
serve them very hot. A sauce of better flarour made by boiling
the cucumbers in veal gravy well seasoned, and stirring in the beaten
yolks of two or three eggs, and a little chili vinegar or lemon-juice,
at the instant of serving. Another also of cucumbers sliced, and
stewed in Lutter, but without being at all browned, and then boiled
in pale veal gravy, which must be thickened with rich cream, is
excellent. A morsel of sugar improves this sauce.
Cucumbers, 3 : 15 to 18 minutes. White sauce, & pint.
WHITE MUSHROOM SAUCE.
Cut off the stems closely from half a pint of small button mush-
rooms; clean them with a little salt and a bit of flannel, and throw
them into cold water, slightly salted, as they are done ; drain them
well, or dry them in a soft cloth, and throw them into half a pint of
boiling béchamel (see page 108), or of white sauce made with very
fresh milk, or thin cream, thickened with a tablespoonful of flour
and two ounces of butter. Simmer the mushrooms from ten to
twenty minutes, or until they are quite tender, and dish the sauce,
which should be properly seasoned with salt, mace, and cayenne.


CHAP. v.]
123
SAUCES.
Mushrooms, 5 pint; white sauce, 1 pint; seasoning of salt, mace,
and cayenne : 10 minutes.
ANOTHER MUSHROOM SAUCE.
Prepare from half to a whole pint of very small mushroon.
buttons with great nicety, and throw them into an equal quantity of
sauce tournée ; when they are tender add a few spoonsful of rich
cream, give the whole boil, and serve it. Either of these sauces
may be sent to table with boiled poultry, breast of veal, or real-
cutlets: the sauce tournée should be thickened rather more than usual
when it is to be used in this receipt.
Mushrooms and sauce tournée each, i to whole pint: stewed till
tender. Cream, 4 to 8 tablespoonsful.
BROWN MUSHROOM SAUCE.
Very small flaps, peeled and freed entirely from the fur, will
answer for this sauce. Leave them whole or quarter them, and stew
them tender in some rich brown gravy; give a full seasoning of mace
and cayenne, add thickening and salt it needed, and a tablespoonful of
good mushroom catsup.
COMMON TOMATA SAUCE.
Tomatas are so juicy when ripe that they require little or no liquid
to reduce them to a proper consistence for sauce; and they vary so
exceedingly in size and quality that it is difficult to give precise direc-
tious for the exact quantity which in their unripe state is needed for
them. Take off the stalks, halve the tomatas, and gently squeeze
out the seeds and watery pulp; then stew them sofily with a few
spoonsful of gravy or of strong broth until they are quite melted.
Press the whole through a hair-sieve, and heat it afresh with a little
additional gravy should it be too thick, and some cayenne, and salt.
Serve it very hot.
Fine ripe tomatas, 6 or 8; gravy or strong broth, 4 tablespoons-
ful: } to hour, or longer if needed. Salt and cayenne sufficient
to season the sauce, and two or three spoonsful more of gravy if
required.
Obs.-For a large tureen of this sauce, increase the proportions ;
and should it be at first too liquid, reduce it by quick boiling. When
neither gravy nor broth is at hand, the tomatas may be stewed per-
fectly tender, but very gently, in a couple of ounces of butter, with
some cayenne and salt only, or with the addition of a very little finely
minced onion ; then rubbed through a sieve, and heated, and served
without any addition, or with only that of a teaspoonful of chili
vinegar; or, wben the colour is not a principal consideration, with a
few spoonsful of rich cream, smoothly mixed with a little flour to


124
[CHAP 1
MODERN COCKERY.
prevent its curdling. The sauce must be stirred without ceasing
should the last be added, and boiled for four or five minutes.
of rich gravy.
A FINER TOMATA SAUCE,
Stew very gently a dozen fine red tomatas, prepared as for the pre-
ceding receipt, with two or three sliced eschalots, four or five chilies at
a capsicum or two (or in lieu of either, with a quarter of a teaspoonf.
of cayenne pepper), a few small dice of lean ham, and half a cuptal
Stir these often, and when the tomatas are reduced
quite to a smooth pulp, rub them through a sieve; put them into a
clean saucepan, with a few spoonsful more of rich gravy, or Espag-
nole, add salt if needed, boil the sauce stirring it well for ten minutes,
and serve it very hot. When the gravy is exceedingly good and
highly flavoured, the ham may be omitted : a dozen small musb-
rooms nicely cleaned may also be sliced and stewed with the tomatas
instead of the eschalots, when their flavour is preferred, or they may
be added with them. The exact proportion of liquid used is imms-
terial, for should the sauce be too thin it may be reduced by rapid
boiling, and diluted with more gravy if too thick.
BOILED APPLE SAUCE.
Apples of a fine cooking sort require but a very small portion of
liquid to boil down well and smoothly for sauce, if placed orer a
gentle fire in a close-shutting saucepan, and simmered as softly as
possible until they are well broken; and their flavour is injured by
ihe common mode of adding so much to them, that the greater part
must be drained off again before they are sent to table. Pare the
fruit quickly, quarter it, and be careful entirely to remove the cores;
put one tablespoonful of water into a saucepan before the apples are
thrown in, and proceed, as we have directed, to simmer them until
they are nearly ready to serve: finish the sauce by the receipt which
follows.
Apples, 1 lb.; water, 1 tablespoonful ; stewed very softly: 30 to 60
minutes,
Obs.— These proportions are sufficient only for a small tureen of
the sauce, and should be doubled for a large one.
For this, and all other preparations, apples will be whiter if just
dipped into fresh water the instant before they are put into the ster-
pon. They should be quickly lifted from it, and will stew down
easily to sauce with only the moisture which hangs about them. They
should be watched and often gently stirred, that they may be equally
done.
BAKED APPLE SAUCE.
(Good.)
Put a tablespoonful of water into a quart basin, and fill it with
good boiling apples, pared, quartered, and carefully cored : put a


CHAP. v.]
125
SAUCES.
plate over, and set them into a moderate oven for about an hour, or
until they are reduced quite to a pulp; beat them smooth with a
clean wooden spoon, adding to them a little sugar and a morsel
of fresh butter, when these are liked, though they will scarcely be
required.
The sauce made thus is far superior to that which is boiled.
When no other oven is at hand, a Dutch or an American one
would probably answer for it ; but we cannot assert this on our
own experience.
Good boiling apples, 1 quart: baked 1 hour (more or less accord-
ing to the quality of the fruit, and temperature of the oven); sugar,
1 oz.; butter, s oz.
BROWN APPLE SAUCE.
Stew gently down to a thick and perfectly smooth marmalade, a
pound of pearmains, or of any other well-tavoured boiling apples,
in about the third of a pint of rich brown gravy: season the sauce
rather highly with black pepper or cayenne, and serve it very hot.
Curry sauce will make an excellent substitute for the gravy when
a very piquant accompaniment is wanted for pork or other rich
meat.
Apples pared and cored, 1 lb.; good brown gravy, third of pint
if to l] hour. Pepper or cayenne as needed.
WHITE ONION SAUCE.
Strip the skin from some large white onions, and after having
taken off the tops and roots cut them in two, throw them into cold
water as they are done, cover them plentifully with more water, and
boil them very tender; lift them out, drain, and then press the water
thoroughly from them; chop them small, rub them through a sieve
or strainer, put them into a little rich melted butter mixed with a
spoonful or two of cream or milk, and a seasoning of salt, give the
sauce a boil, and serve it very hot. Portugal onions are superior to
any others, both for this and for most other purposes of cookery.
For the firest kind of onion sauce, see Soubise, which follows.
BROWN ONION SAUCE.
Cut off both ends of the onions, and slice them into a saucepan in
which two ounces of butter have been dissolved; keep them stewing
gently over a clear fire until they are lightly coloured; then pour to
them half a pint of brown gravy, and when they have boiled until
they are perfectly tender, work the sauce altogether through a strainer,
season it with a little cayenne, and serve it very hot.
ANOTHER BROWN ONION SAUCE.
Mince the onions, stew them in butter until they are well coloured,
stir in a dessertspoonful of flour, shake the stewpan over the fire for


126
[CHAP. V.
NODERN COOKERY.
three or four minutes, pour in only as much broth or grary as will
leave the sauce tolerably thick, season, and serve it.
SOUBISE.
(English Receipt.)
Skin, slice, and mince quickly two pounds' weight of the white
part only of some fine mild onious, and stew them in from tro te
three ounces of good butter over a very gentle fire until they are
reduced to a pulp, then pour to them three-quarters of a pint of rich
veal gravy; add a seasoning of salt and cayenne, if needed; skim oti
the fat entirely, press the sauce through a sieve, heat it in a clean
stewpan, mix it with a quarter of a pint of rich boiling cream, and
serve it directly.
Onions, 2 lbs.; butter, 2 to 3 oz.: 30 minutes to 1 hour. Veal
gravy, pint; salt, cayenne : 5 minutes. Cream, & pint.
SOUBISE.
(French Receipt.)
Peel some fine white onions, and trim away all tough and dis.
coloured parts; mince them small
, and throw them into plenty of
boiling water ; when they have boiled quickly for five minutes drain
them well in a siere, then stew them very softly indeed in an ounce
or two of fresh butter until they are dry and perfectly tender ; stir
to them as much béchamel as will bring them to the consistence of
very thick pea-soup, pass the whole through a strainer, pressing the
ovion strongly that none may remain behind, and heat the sauce
afresh, without allowing it to boil. A small half-teaspoonful of
pounded sugar is sometimes added to this soubise,
White part of onions, 2 lbs.: blanched 5 minutes. Butter, 2 oz. :
30 to 50 minutes. Béchamel, to 1 pint, or more.
Obs. These sauces are served more frequently with lamb or mut-
ton cutlets than with any other dishes ; but they would probably
find many approvers if sent to table with roast mutton, or boiled
veal. Half the quantity given abore will be sufficient for a moderate-
sized dish.
MILD RAGOUT OF GARLIC, OR, L'AIL À LA BORDELAISE.
Divide some fine cloves of garlic, strip off the skin, and when all
are ready throw them into plenty of boiling water slightly salted ; in
five minutes drain this from them, and pour in as much more, which
should also be quite boiling ; continue to change it every five or six
minutes until the garlic is quite tender: throw in a moderate pro-
portion of salt the last time to give it the proper flavour, Drain it
thoroughly, and serve it in the dish with roast mutton, or put it into


CHAP. v.]
127
SAUCES.
good brown gravy or white sauce for table. By changing very fre.
quently the water in which it is boiled, the root will be deprived of
its naturally pungent flavour and smell, and rendered extremely
mild: when it is not wished to be quite so much so, change the
water every ten minutes only.
Garlic, 1 pint: 15 to 25 minutes, or more. Water to be changed
every 5 or 6 minutes; or every 10 minutes when not wished so very
mild. Gravy or sauce, 1 pint.
MILD ESCHALOT SAUCE.
Prepare and boil from half to a whole pint of eschalots by the
preceding receipt; unless very large, they will be tender in about
fifteen minutes, sometimes in less, in which case the water must be
poured from them shortly after it has been changed for the second
time. When grown in a suitable soil, and cultivated with care, the
eschalots are sometimes treble the size that they are under other cir-
cumstances; and this difference must be allowed for in boiling them.
Drain them well, and mix them with white sauce or gravy, or with
good melted butter, and serve them very hot.
A FINE SAUCE, OR PURÉE OF VEGETABLE MARROW.
Pare one or two hrlf-grown marrows and cut out all the seeds;
take a pound of the vegetable, and slice it, with one ounce of mild
onion, into a pint of strong real broth or of pale gravy; stew them
very softly for nearly or quite an hour ; add salt and cayenne, or
white pepper, when they are nearly done; press the whole through
a fine and delicately clean hair-sieve; heat it afresh, and stir to it
when it boils about the third of a pint of rich cream. Serve it with
boiled chickens, stewed or boiled veal, lamb cutlets, or any other
delicate meat. When to be served as a purée, an additional half-
pound of the vegetable must be used ; and it should be dished with
small fried sippets round it. For a maigre dish, stew the marrow
and onion quite tender in butter, and dilute them with half boiling
water and half cream,
Vegetable marrow, i lb.; mild onion, 1 oz. ; strong broth or pale
gravy, 1 pint : nearly or quite 1 hour. Pepper or cayenne, and salt
as needed; good cream, from { to { of pint. For purée, 3 lb. more of
marrow.
EXCELLENT TURNIP, OR ARTICHOKE SAUCE FOR BOILED MEAT.
Pare, slice, and boil quite tender, some finely-grained mild turnips,
press the water from them thoroughly, and pass them through a
siere. Dissolve a slice of butter in a clean saucepan, and stir to it a
large teaspoonful of flour, or mix them smoothly together before they
are put in, and shake the saucepan round until they boil: pour to


128
[CHAP. V.
MODERN COOKERY.
them very gradually nearly a pint of thin cream (or of good milk
mixed with a portion of cream), add the turrips with a half-tes-
spoonful or more of salt, and when the whole is well mixed and very
hot, pour it over boiled mutton, veal, lamb, or poultry. There should
be sufficient of the sauce to cover the meat entirely;* and when pro-
perly made it improves greatly the appearance of a joint. A little
cayenne tied in a muslin may be boiled in the milk before it is mixed
with the turnips. Jerusalem artichokes make a more delicate sauce
of this kind even than turnips; the weight of both vegetables mest
be taken after they are pared.
Pared turnips or artichokes, 1 lb.; fresh butter, 15 oz. ; flour, 1
large teaspoonful (twice as much if all milk be used); salt, 1 tea-
spoonful or more ; cream, or cream and milk mixed, from to I
pint.
OLIVE SAUCE.
Remove the stones from some fine French or Italian olives by
paring the fruit close to them, round and round in the form of a
corkscrew: they will then resume their original shape when done.
Weigh six ounces thus prepared, throw them into boiling water, let
them blanch for five minutes; then drain, and throw them into cold
water, and leave them in it from half an hour to an hour, propor-
tioning the time to their saltness; drain them well, and stew them
gently from fifteen to twenty-five minutes in a pint of very rich
brown gravy or Espagnole (see Chapter IV.); add the juice of half
a lemon, and serve the sauce very hot. Half this quantity will be
sufficient for a small party.
Olives, stoned, 6 oz.; rich gravy, 1 pint: 15 to 25 minutes. Juice,
1 lemon.
Obs.-In France this sauce is served very commonly with ducks,
and sometimes with beef-steaks, and with stewed fowl.
CELERY SAUCE.
Slice the white part of from three to five heads of young tender
celery; peel it if not very young, and boil it in salt and water for
twenty minutes. If for white sauce put the celery, after it has been
well drained, into lalf a pint of veal broth or gravy, and let it stew
until it is quite soft; then add an ounce and a half of butter, mixed
with a dessertspoonful of flour, and a quarter of a pint of thick cream
or the yolks of three eggs. The French, after boiling the celery,
which they cut very small, for about twenty minutes, drain and chop
it; then put it with a slice of butter into a stew-pan, and season it
with pepper, salt, and nutmeg; they keep these stirred over the fire
• The objection to masking a joint with this or any other sauce is, that it
speedily becomes cold when spread over its surface : a portion of it at least
should be served very hot in a tureen.


CHAP. v ]
129
SAUCES.
for two or three minutes, and then dredge in a dessertspoonful of
flour: when this has lost its raw taste, they pour in a sufficient
quantity of white gravy to moisten the celery, and to allow for
twenty minutes' longer boiling. A very good common celery sauce
is made by simply stewing the celery cut into inch-lengths in butter,
until it begins to be tender; and then adding a spoonful of flour,
which must be allowed to brown a little, and half a pint of good broth
or beef gravy, with a seasoning of pepper or cayenne.
Celery, 3 to 5 heads : 20 minutes. Veal broth, or gravy, pintº
20 to 40 minutes. Butter, 1} oz.; flour, 1 dessertspoonful; cream,
* pint, or three yolks of eggs.
WHITE CHESTNUT SAUCE.
Strip the outer rind from six ounces of sound sweet chestnuts, then
throw them into boiling water, and let them simmer for two or three
minutes, when the second skin will easily peel off. Add to them three
quarters of a pint of good cold veal gravy, and a few strips of lemon
rind, and let them stew gently for an hour and a quarter. Press
them, with the gravy, through a hair-sieve reversed and placed over
a deep dish or pan, as they are much more easily rubbed through thus
than in the usual way: a wooden spoon should be used in preference
to any other for the process. Add a little cayenne and mace, some
salt if needed, and about six tablespoonsful of rich cream. Keep the
sauce stirred until it boils, and serve it immediately.
Chestnuts without their rinds, 6 oz.; veal gravy, $ pint; rind of
lemon : 11 hour. Salt; spice; cream, 6 tablespoonsful.
Obs.—This sauce may be served with turkey, with fowls, or with
stewed veal-cutlets.
BROWN CHESTNUT SAUCE.
Substitute rich brown gravy for the veal stock, omit the lemon-
rind and cream, heighten the seasonings, and mix the chestnuts with
a few spoonsful of Espagnole or highly flavoured gravy, after they
have been passed through the sieve.
PARSLEY-GREEN, FOR COLOURING SAUCES.
Gather a quantity of young parsley, strip it from the stalks, wash
it very clean, shake it as dry as possible in a cloth, pound it in a
mortar, press all the juice closely from it through a hair-sieve
reversed, and put it into a clean jar; set it into a pan of boiling
water, and in about three minutes, if gently simmered, the juice will
be poached sufficiently ; lay it then upon a clean sieve to drain, and
it will be ready for use.
Spinach-green, for which particular directions will be found at the
commencement of Chapter XXIV., is prepared in the same manner.
The juice of various herbs pounded together may be pressed from
them through a sieve and added to cold sauces.
K


130
[CHAP. V.
MODERN COOKERY.
TO CRISP PARSLEY.
Wash some branches of young parsley well, drain them from the
water, and swing them in a clean cloth until they are quite dry;
place them on a sheet of writing paper in a Dutch oven, before s
brisk fire, and keep them frequently turned until they are quite
crisp. They will become so in from six to eight minutes.
FRIED PARSLEY.
When the parsley has been prepared as for crisping, and is quite
dry, throw it into plenty of lard or butter, which is on the point of
boiling ; take it up with a skimmer the instant it is crisp, and drain
it on a cloth spread upon a sieve reversed, and placed before the
tire.
MILD MUSTARD.
Mustard for instant use should be mixed with milk, to which a
spoonful or two of very thin cream may be added.
MUSTARD THE COMMON WAY.
The great art of mixing mustard is to have it perfectly smooth, and
of a proper consistency. The liquid with which it is moistened
should be added to it in small quantities, and the mustard should be
well rubbed, and beaten with a spoon. Mix half a teaspoonful of
salt with two ounces of the flour of mustard, and stir to them by
degrees sufficient boiling water to reduce it to the appearance of a
thick batter: do not put it into the mustard-glass until it is cold.
Some persons like a half-teaspoonful of sugar in the finest powder
mixed with it. It ought to be sufficiently diluted always to drop easily
from the spoon; and to bring it to this state more than a quarter of
a pint, and less than half a pint of liquid will be needed for four
ounces of the best Durham mustard.
For Tartar mustard see Chapter VII.
FRENCH BATTER.
(For frying vegetables, and for apple, peach, or orange fritters.)
Cut a couple of ounces of good butter into small bits, pour on it
less than a quarter of a pint of boiling water, and when it is dissolved
add three quarters of a pint of cold water, so that the whole shall
not be quite milk warm; mix it then by degrees and very smoothly
with twelve ounces of fine dry flour and a small pinch of salt if the
batter be for fruit fritters, but with more if for meat or vegetables.
Just before it is used, stir into it the whites of two eggs beaten to
a solid froth ; but previously to this, add a little water should it
appear too thick, as some flour requires more liquid than other to
bring it to the proper consistence; this is an exceedingly light crisp
batter, excellent for the purposes for which it is named.


CHAP. v.]
131
SAUCES.
Butter, 2 oz.; water, from to nearly 1 pint; little salt; flour, ;
Ib.; whites of 2 eggs, beaten to snow.
TO PREPARE BREAD FOR FRYING FISI.
Cut thick slices from the middle of a loaf of light stale bread, pare
the crust entirely from them, and dry them gradually in a cool oven
until they are crisp quite through; let them become cold, then roll
or beat them into fine crumbs, and keep them in a dry place for use.
To strew over hams or cheeks of bacon, the bread should be left all
night in the oven, which should be sufficiently heated to brown, as
well as to harden it: it ought indeed to be entirely converted into
equally-coloured crust. It may be siſted through a dredging-box
on to the hams after it has been reduced almost to powder.
BROWNED FLOUR FOR THICKENING SOUPS AND GRAVIES.
Spread it on a tin or dish and colour it, without burning, in a gentle
oven or before the fire in a Dutch or American oven : turn it often,
or the edges will be too much browned before the middle is enough
so. This, blended with butter, makes a convenient thickening for
soups or gravies of which it is desirable to deepen the colour; and
it requires less time and attention than the French roux of page 10
FRIED BREAD-CRUMBS.
Grate lightly into very fine crumbs four ounces of stale bread,
and shake them through a cullender ;* without rubbing or touching
them with the hands. Dissolve two ounces of fresh butter in a
frying-pan, throw in the crumbs, and stir them constantly over a
moderate fire, until they are all of a clear golden colour; lift them
out with a skimmer, spread them in a soft cloth, or upon white
blotting paper, laid upon a sieve reversed, and dry them before the
fire. They may be more delicately prepared by browning them in a
gentle oven without the addition of butter.
Bread, 4 oz.; butter, 2 oz.
FRIED BREAD FOR GARNISHING.
Cut the crumb of a stale loaf in slices a quarter of an inch thick ;
form them into diamonds or half diamonds, or shape them with a
paste-cutter in any another way; fry them in fresh butter, some of a
very pale brown and others a deeper colour ; dry them well, and place
them alternately round the dish that is to be garnished. They may
be made to adhere to the edge of the dish when they are required
for ornament only, by means of a little flour and white of egg brushed
over the side which is placed on it: this must be allowed to dry
before they are served.
For SWEET-PUDDING SAUCES, see Chapter XX.
• This is not necessary when they are lightly and finely grated of uniform size.


132
[CHAP. PL
MODERN COOKERY.
CHAPTER VI.
Cold Sauces, Salads, etc.
SUPERIOR MINT-SAUCE.
(To serve with lamb.)
The mint for this sauce should be fresh and young, for when old
it is tough and indigestible. Strip the leaves from the stems, wash
them with great nicety, and drain them on a sieve, or dry them in a
cloth ; chop them very fine, put them into a sauce-tureen, and to
three heaped tablespoonsful of the mint add two of pounded sugar;
let them remain a short time well mixed together, then pour to them
gradually six tablespoonsful of good vinegar. The sauce thus made
is excellent, and far more wholesome than when a larger proportion
of vinegar and a smaller one of sugar is used for it; but, after the
first trial, the proportions can easily be adapted to the taste of the
eaters.
COMMON MINT-SAUCE,
Two tablespoonsful of mint, one lurge tablespoonful of pale brown
sugar, well mixed together, and a quarter of a pint of vinegar, stirred
until the sugar is entirely dissolved.
STRAINED MINT SAUCE.
Persons with whom the mint in substance disagrees can have the
flavour of the herb without it, by mixing the ingredients of either of
the preceding receipts, and straining the sauce after it has stood for
two three hours; the mint should be well pressed when this is
done. The flavour will be the more readily extracted if the mint
and sugar are well mixed, and left for a time before the vinegar is
added.


сHAP т.]
133
COLD SAUCES, SALADS, ETC.
FINE HORSERADISH SAUCE.
(To serve with cold, roust, stewed, or boiled beef.)
The root for this excellent sauce should be young and tender, and
grated down on a very fine bright grater, quite to a pulp, after it has
been washed, wiped, and scraped free from the outer skin. We have
given the proportions for it in the preceding chapter, but repeat
them here.
Horseradish, 2 heaped tablespoonsful; salt, 1 moderate teaspoonful ;
rich cream, 4 tablespoonsful; good vinegar, 3 dessertspoonsful (of
which one may be chili vinegar when the root is mild.)
When the other ingredients are smoothly mingled, the vinegar
must be stirred briskly to them in very small portions. A few drops
of garlic or shalot vinegar can be added to them when it is liked.
COLD MAITRE D'HOTEL, OR STEWARD'S SAUCE.
Work well together until they are perfectly blended, two or three
ounces of good butter, some pepper, salt, minced parsley, and the
strained juice of a sound lemon of moderate size. The sauce thus
prepared is often put into broiled fish ; and laid in the dish under
broiled kidneys, beef-steaks, and other meat.
For 2 oz. butter, 1 heaped teaspoonful young minced parsley;
juice of 1 lemon; 1 small saltspoonful salt; seasoning of white
pepper.
Obs.—The proportion of parsley may be doubled when a larger
quantity is liked : a little fine cayenne would often be preferred to
the pepper.
COLD DUTCH OR AMERICAN SAUCE, FOR SALADS OF DRESSED
VEGETABLES, SALT FISH, OR HARD EGGS.
Put into a saucepan three ounces of good butter very smoothly
blended with a quite small teaspoonful of flour, and add to them a
large wineglassful of cold water, half as much sharp vinegar (or very
fresh, strained, lemon-juice) a saltspoonful of salt, and half as much
cayenne in fine powder. Keep these shaken briskly round, or stirred
over a clear fire, until they form a smooth sauce and boil rapidly;
then stir them very quickly to the beaten yolks of four fresh eggs,
which will immediately give the sauce the consistence of custard;
pour it hot over the salad, and place it on ice, or in a very cool larder
until it is quite cold: if properly made, it will be very thick and
smooth, and slightly set, as if it contained a small portion of isinglass.
A dessertspoonful of parsley,—or of tarragon,- can be mingled with
it at pleasure, or any favour given to it with store-sauces which
is liked. It converts flakes of salt-fish, sliced potatoes (new or old)
and hard eggs, into excellent salads.


134
[CHAP. V.
MODERN COOKERY.
ENGLISH SAUCE FOR SALAD, COLD MEAT, OR COLD FISH.
The first essential for a smooth, well-made English salad dressing
is to have the yolks of the eggs used for it sufficiently hard to
be reduced easily to a perfect paste. They should be boiled at least
fifteen minutes, and should have become quite cold before they are
taken from the shells; they should also be well covered with water
when they are cooked, or some parts of them will be tough, and will
spoil the appearance of the sauce by rendering it lumpy, unless they
be worked through a sieve, a process which is always better avoided
if possible. To a couple of yolks broken up and mashed to a paste
with the back of a wooden spoon, add a small saltspoonful of salt, a
large one of pounded sugar, a few grains of fine cayenne, and a tea.
spoonful of cold water ; mix these well
, and stir to them by degrees a
quarter of a pint of sweet cream; throw in next, stirring the sauce
briskly, a tablespoonful of strong chili vinegar, and add as much
common or French vinegar as will acidulate the mixture agreeably.
A tablespoonful of either will be sufficient for many tastes, but it is
easy to increase the proportion when more is liked. Six tablespoons-
ful of olive oil, of the purest quality, may be substituted for the
cream : it should be added in very small portions to the other ingre-
dients, and stirred briskly as each is added until the sauce resembles
custard. When this is used, the water should be omitted. The
piquancy of this preparation-which is very delicate, made by the
directions just given-may be heightened by the addition of a little
eschalot vinegar, Harvey's sauce, essence of anchovies, French mus.
tard, or tarragon vinegar; or by bruising with the eggs a morsel of
garlic, half the size of a hazel-nut: it should always, however,
be rendered as appropriate as may be to the dish with which it is to
be served.
Obs. 1.-As we have before had occasion to remark, garlic, when
very sparingly and judiciously used, imparts a remarkably fine savour
to a sauce or gravy, and neither a strong nor a coarse one, as it does
when used in larger quantities. The veries! morsel (or, as the French
call it, a mere soupçon) of the root, is sufficient to give this agreeable
piquancy, but unless the proportion be extremely small, the effect will
be quite different. The Italians dress their salads upon a round of
delicately toasted bread, which is rubbed with garlic, saturated with
oil, and sprinkled with cayenne, before it is laid into the bowl: they
also eat the bread thus prepared, but with less of oil, and untoasted
often, before their meals, as a digester.
Obs. 2.-French vinegar is so infinitely superior to English in
strength, purity, and flavour, that we cannot forbear to recommend
it in preference for the use of the table. We have for a long time
past been supplied with some of most excellent quality labelled
Vinaigre de Bordeaux) imported by the Messrs. Kent & Sons, of
Unton-on-Severn, who supply it largely, we believe, both to whole-
nd retail venders in town and country.


CHAP. VI.]
135
COLD SAUCES, SALADS, ETC.
THE POET'S RECEIPT FOR SALAD.
“ Two large potatoes, passed through kitchen sieve
Unwonted softness to the salad give;
Of mordent mustard, add a single spoon,
Distrust the condiment which bites so soon;
But deem it not, thou man of herbs, a fault,
To add a double quantity of salt;
Three times the spoon with oil of Lucca crown,
And once with vinegar, procured from town;
True flavour needs it, and your poet begs
The pounded yellow of two well-boiled eggs;
Let onion atoms lurk within the bowl,
And, scarce suspected, animate the whole;
And lastly, in the flavoured compound toss
A magic teaspoon of anchovy sauce :
Then, though green turtle fail, though venison 's tough,
And ham and turkey are not boiled enough,
Serenely full, the epicure may say –
Fate cannot harm me, -I have dined to-day."
Two well-boiled potatoes, passed through a sieve; a teaspoonful of
mustard ; two teaspoonsful of salt; one of essence of anchovy; about
a quarter of a teaspoonful of very finely-chopped onions, well bruised
into the mixture; three tablespoonsful of oil; one of vinegar; the
yolks of two eggs, hard boiled. Stir up the salad immediately before
dinner, and stir it up thoroughly.
N.B.-As this salad is the result of great experience and reflection,
it is hoped young salad makers will not attempt to make any im-
provements upon it.
SAUCE MAYONNAISE.
(For salads, cold meat, poultry, fish, or vegetables.)
This is a very fine sauce when all the ingredients used for it are
good; but it will prove an uneatable compound to a delicate taste
unless it be made with oil of the purest quality.
Put into a large basin the yolks oniy of two very fresh eggs, care-
fully freed from specks, with a little salt and cayenne; stir these well
together, then add about a teaspoonful of the purest salad oil, and
work the mixture round with a wooden spoon until it appears like
Pour in by slow degrees nearly half a pint of oil, continuing
* Note.-This receipt, though long privately circulated amongst the friends
and acquaintance of its distinguished and regretted author, now (with permis-
sion) appears for the first time in print. We could not venture to deviate by a
word from the original, but we would suggest, that the mixture forms almost a
substitute for salad, instead of a mere dressing. It is, however, an admirable
compound for those to whom the slight flavouring of onion is not an objection.
cream.


136
[CHAP. V.
MODERX COOKERY.
at each interval to work the sauce as at first until it resumes the
smoothness of cream, and not a particle of the oil remains visible;
then add a couple of tablespoonstul of plain French or of tarragon
vinegar, and one of cold water to whiten the sauce. A bit of clear
veal jelly the size of an egg will improve it greatly. The reader who
may have a prejudice against the unboiled eggs which enter into the
composition of the Mayonnaise, will find that the most fastidious taste
would not detect their being raw, if the sauce be well made; and per.
sons who dislike oil may partake of it in this form, without being
aware of its presence, provided always that it be perfectly fresh, and
pure in flavour, for otherwise it will be easily perceptible.
Yolks of fresh unboiled eggs, 2; salt, saltspoonful, or rather
more; cayenne ; oil, full third of pint; French or tarragon vinegar,
2 tablespoonsful; cold water, 1 tablespoonful; meat jelly (if at banu),
size of an egg.
RED OR GREEN MAYONNAISE SAUCE.
Colour may be given either to the preceding or to the following
Sauce Mayonnaise by mingling with it some hard lobster-coral reduced
to powder by rubbing it through a very fine hair-sieve: the red hue
of this is one of the most brilliant and beautiful that can be seen, but
the sauce for which it is used can only be appropriately served with
fish or fish-salads. Spinach-green will impart a tine tint to any pre-
paration, but its flavour is objectionable: that of parsley-green is
more agreeable. Directions for both of these are contained in the
previous chapter.
IMPERIAL MAYONNAISE.
(An elegant jellied scruce, or salad-dressing.)
Put into a bowl half a pint of aspic, or of any very clear pale
jellied stock (that made usually for good white soup will serve for the
purpose excellently); add to it a couple of spoonsful of the purest
olive-oil, one of sharp vinegar, and a little fine salt and cayenne. Break
up the jelly quite small with the points of a whisk of osier-twigs
stir the ingredients well together, and then whisk them gently uatii
they are converted into a smooth white sauce. This receipt was de-
rived originally from an admirable French cook,* who stood quite at
the head of his profession : but as he was accustomed to purvey for
the tables of kings and emperors, his directions require some curtail-
ment and simplifying to adapt them to the resources of common
English life. He directs the preparation to be mixed and worked-
to use a technical expression--over ice, which cannot always be com-
manded, except in opulent establishments, and in large towns. It is
* Monsieur Caréme, to whose somewhat elaborate but admirable works, pab.
lieu thirty years or more since, all modern cooks appear to be specially indebted.


CHAP. VI.]
137
COLD SAUCES, SALADS, ETC.
not, however, essential to the success of this sauce, which will prove
extremely good if made and kept in a cool larder; or, if the bowl in
which it is mingled be placed in a pan of cold water, into which
plenty of saltpetre and sal-ammoniac, roughly powdered, are thrown
at the moment it is set into it. In this country a smaller proportion
of oil, and a larger one of acid, are usually preferred to the common
French salad-dressings, in which there is generally a very small por-
tion of vinegar. To some tastes a spoonful or two of cream would
improve the present Mayonnaise, which may be varied also with chili,
tarragon, or other flavoured vinegar. It should be served heaped
high in the centre of the salad, for which, if large, double the quan-
tity directed here should be prepared.
REMOULADE.
This differs little from an ordinary English salad-dressing. Pound
very smoothly indeed the yolks of two or three hard-boiled eggs with
a teaspoonful of mustard, half as much salt, and some cayenne, or
white pepper. Mix gradually with them, working the whole well
together, two or three tablespoonsful of oil and two of vinegar.
Should the sauce be curdled, pour it by degrees to the yolk of a raw
egg, stirring it well round as directed for the Mayonnaise. A spoon-
ful of tarragon, cucumber, or eschalot-vinegar, may be added with
very good effect; and to give it increased relish, a teaspoonful of
cavice, or a little of Harvey's sauce, and a dessertspoonful of chili
vinegar may be thrown into it. This last is an excellent addition to
all cold sauces, or salad-dressings.
Hard yolks of 2 or of 3 eggs; mustard, 1 teaspoonful (more when
liked); salt, 1 teaspoonful: pepper or cayenne ; oil, 3 tablespoonsful;
vinegar, 2. if curdled, yolk of l raw egg. Good additions: tarragon
or eschalot, or cucumber-vinegar, 1 tablespoonful; chili vinegar, 1
dessertspoonful ; cavice or Harvey's sauce at pleasure.
Obs.-A dessertspoonful of eschalots, or a morsel of garlic, very
finely minced, are sometimes pounded with the yolks of eggs for this
sauce.
OXFORD BRAWN SAUCE.
Mingle thoroughly a tablespoonful of brown sugar with a tea-
spoonful of made mustard, a third as much of salt, some pepper,
from three to four tablespoonsful of very fine salad-oil, and two of
strong vinegar; or apportion the same ingredients otherwise to the
taste.
FORCED EGGS FOR GARNISHING SALAD.
Pound and press through the back of a hair-sieve the flesh of three
very fine, or of four moderate-sized anchovies, freed from the bones
and skin. Boil six fresh eggs for twelve minutes, and when they are


138
[CHAP. VI.
MODERN COOKERY.
perfectly cold, halve them lengthwise, take out the yolks, pound
them to a paste with a third of their volume of fresh buiter, then add
the anchovies, a quarter of a teaspoonful of mace, and as much
cayenne as will season the mixture well; beat these together tho-
roughly, and fill the whites of egg deatly with them. A morsel of
garlic, perfectly blended with the other ingredients, would to some
tastes improve this preparation : a portion of anchovy-butter, or of
potted ham, will supply the place of fish in it very advantageously.
Eggs, 6; anchovies, 4; butter, size of 2 yolks; mace, 1 teaspoonful;
cayenne, third as much.
ANCHOVY BUTTER.
(Excellent.)
Scrape the skin quite clear from a dozen fine mellow anchovies,
free the flesh entirely from the bones, and pound it as smooth as pos-
sible in a mortar ; rub it through the back of a hair-sieve with a
wooden spoon ; wipe out the mortar, and put back the anchovies
with three quarters of a pound of very fresh butter, a small half-
saltspoonful of cayenne, and more than twice as much of finely grater!
nutmeg, and freshly pounded mace; and beat them together until
they are thoroughly blended. If to serve cold at table, mould the
butter in small shapes, and turn it ont. A little rose pink (which is
sold at the chemists') is sometimes used to give it a fine colour, but it
must be sparingly used, or it will impart an unpleasant flavour, and
we cannot much recommend its use: it should be well pourded, and
very equally mixed with it. For kitchen use, press the butter down
into jars or pattypans, and keep it in a cool place.
Fine anchovies, 12; butter, t lb.; cayenne, small f saltspoonful ;
nutmeg and mace, each more than twice as much; rose pink (if used),
* teaspoonful.
This proportion differs from potted anchovies only in the larger pro-
portion of butter mixed with the fish, and the milder seasoning of
spice. It will assist to form an elegant dish if made into pats, and
stamped with a tasteful impression, then placed alternately with pats
of lobster-butter, and decorated with light foliage. It is generally
eaten with much relish when carefully compounded, and makes er-
cellent sandwiches. To convert it into a good fish sauce, mix two or
three ounces of it with a teaspoonful of Hour and a few spoonsful of
cold water, or of pale veal stock, and keep them constantly stirred
until they boil. The butter should not be moulded directly it is
taken from the mortar, as it is then very soft from the beating. It
should be placed until it is firm in a very cool place or over ice, when
it can be done conveniently.
LOBSTER BUTTER.
Pound to the smoothest possible paste the coral of one or two fresh
hen lobsters, mix with it about an equal proportion of fresh firm but-


CHAP. VI.]
139
COLD SAUCES, SALADS, ETC.
ter, and a moderate seasoning of mace and#cayenne, with a little salt
if needed. Let the whole be thoroughly blended, and set it aside in
a cool larder, or place it over ice until it is sufficiently firm to be
made into pats. Serve it garnished with curled parsley, or with any
light foliage which will contrast well with its brilliant colour. The
coral may be rubbed through a fine sieve before it is put into the
mortar, and will then require but little pounding.
An excellent preparation is produced by mingling equal propor-
tions of lobster and of anchovy butter in the mortar, or one-third of
the anchovy with two of lobster : to this some of the white flesh of
the latter can be added to give another variety, after it has been
prepared by the receipt for boudirettes, Chapter III.
TRUFFLED BUTTER (AND TRUFFLES POTTED IN BUTTER.)
(For the breakfast or luncheon table.)
Cut up a pound of sweet fresh butter, and dissolve it gently over a
clear fire; take off the scum which will gather thickly upon it, and
when it has simmered for three or four minutes, draw it from the fire,
and let it stand until all the butter-milk has subsided; pour it softly
from this upon six ounces of ready-pared sound French truffles, cut
into small, but rather thick, slices, and laid into a delicately clean
enamelled saucepan ; add a full seasoning of freshly pounded mace
and fine cayenne, a small saltspoonful of salt, and half a not large
nutmeg. When the butter has become quite cold, proceed to heat the
truffles slowly, shaking the saucepan often briskly round, and stew
them as gently as possible for twenty minutes, or longer should they
not then be very tender. If allowed to heat, and to boil quickly,
they will become hard, and the preparation, as regards the truffles,
will be a comparative failure. Lift them with a spoon into quite
dry earthen or china pans, and pour the butter on them; or add to
them sufficient of it only to cover them well and to exclude the air,
and pot the remainder of the butter apart: it will be finely flavoured,
and may be eaten by delicate persons to whom the truffle itself would
be injurious. It may also be used in compounding savoury sauces,
and for moistening small croustades before they are fried or baked.
The truffles themselves will remain good for months when thus pre-
pared, if kept free from damp; and in flavour they will be found ex-
cellent. The parings taken from them will also impart a very agree-
able savour to the butter, and will serve extremely well for it for im-
mediate use. They will also be valuable as additions to gravies or to
soups.
We should observe, that the juice which will have exuded from
the truffles in the stewing will cause the preparation to become
mouldy, or otherwise injure it, if it be put into the pans either with
them or with the butter. The truffles must be well drained from it
when they are taken from the saucepan, and the butter must remain


140
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP 1
undisturbed for a few minutes, when it can be poured clear from the
juice, which will have subsided to the bottom of the pan. We have
given here the result of our first experiment, which we found on
further trial to answer perfectly.
ENGLISH SALADS.
The herbs and vegetables for a salad cannot be too freshly gathered;
they should be carefully cleared from insects and washed with scrupu-
lous ni ety; they are better when not prepared until near the time of
sending them to table, and should not be sauced until the instant
before they are served. Tender lettuces, of which the stems should
be cut off, and the outer leaves be stripped away, mustard and cres,
young radishes, and occasionally chives or small green onions (when
the taste of a party is in favour of these last) are the usual ingredients
of summer salads. (In early spring, as we have stated in another
chapter, the young white leaves of the dandelion will supply a very
wholesome and excellent salad, of which the slight bitternesss is to
many persons as agreeable as that of the endive.) Half-grown cu.
cumbers sliced thin, and mixed with them, are a favourite addition
with many persons. In England it is customary to cut the lettuces
extremely fine; the French, who object to the flavour of the knife,
which they fancy this mode imparts, break them small instead.
Young celery alone, sliced and dressed with a rich salad mixture, is
excellent : it is still in some families served thus always with roast
pheasants.
Beet-root, baked or boiled, blanched endive, small salad-herbs
which are easily raised at any time of the year, celery, and hardy let-
tuces, with any ready-dressed vegetable, will supply salads through
the winter. Cucumber vinegar is an agreeable addition to these.
FRENCH SALAD.
In winter this is made principally of beautifully-blanched endire,
washed delicately clean and broken into small branches with the
fingers, then taken from the water and shaken dry in a basket of
peculiar form, appropriated to the purpose,* or in a fine cloth ; then
arranged in the salad bowl, and strewed with herbs (tarragon
generally, when in season) minced small : the dressing is not added
until just before the salad is eaten. In summer, young lettuces are
substituted for the endive, and intermixed with a variety of herbs,
some of which are not generally cultivated in England.
FRENCH SALAD DRESSING.
Stir a saltspoonful of salt and half as much pepper into a large
spoonful of oil, and when the salt is dissolved, mix with them four
• Salad.baskets are also to be found in many good English kitchens, but they
are not in such general use here as on the coutinent.


CHAP. VI.]
141
COLD SAUCES, SALADS, ETC.
additional spoonsful of oil, and pour the whole over the salad ; let it
be well turned, and then add a couple of spoonsful of tarragon vinegar,
mix the whole thoroughly, and serve it without delay. The salad
should not be dressed in this way until the instant before it is wanted
for table: the proportions of salt and pepper can be increased at
pleasure, and common or cucumber vinegar may be substituted for the
tarragon, which, however, is more frequently used in France than
Salt, 1 spoonful : pepper, \ as much; oil, 5 saladspoonsful; tar-
ragon, or other vinegar, 2 spoonsful.
any other.
DES CERNEAUX, OR WALNUT SALAD.
This is a common summer salad in France, where the growth of
walnuts is generally abundant, but is not much served in England;
though the sweet favour of the just-formed nut is very agreeable.
Take the walnuts when a pin will pierce them easily, pare them down
to the kernels, and toss them gently, just before they are served, in a
French or English salad-dressing (the former would generally be
preferred we think), and turn them into the salad-bowl for table.
SUFFOLK SALAD.
Fill a salad-bowl from half to three parts full with very tender
lettuces shred small, minced lean of ham, and hard-boiled eggs, or
their yolks only also minced, placed in alternate layers; dress the
mixture with English salad sauce, but do not pour it into the bowl
until the instant of serving. A portion of cold chicken (or veal),
cut in thin slices about the size of a shilling, may be added when
convenient; the ham and eggs also may be sliced instead of being
minced, and the whole neatly arranged in a chain or otherwise round
the inside of the bowl.
YORKSHIRE PLOUGHMAN'S SALAD.
Mix treacle and vinegar, in the proportion of one tablespoonful of
the first to two of the latter; add a little black pepper, and eat the
sauce with lettuces shred small (with an intermixture of young onions
when they are liked).
AN EXCELLENT SALAD OF YOUNG VEGETABLES.
Pare off the coarse, fibrous parts from four or fivo artichoke
bottoms, boiled quite tender, well drained, and freed carefully
from the insides; cut them into quarters, and lay them into the
salad-buwl; arrange over them some cold new potatoes and
young carrots sliced moderately thin, strew minced tarragon
chervil, or any other herbs which may be better liked, thickly


142
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAY. VÌ
orer the surface, and sauce the salad with an English or French
dressing just before it is sent to table. Very young French beans cut
into short lozenge-shaped lengths, or asparagus points, can be added
to this dish at pleasure; or small tufts of cauliflower may be placed
round it. When these additions are made, the herbs are better
omitted : a little of the liquor of pickled Indian mangoes may be
advantageously mixed with the sauce for this salad, or in lieu of it
some chili vinegar or cayenne pepper. The Dutch or American
sauce of the previous pages would also make an appropriate dressing
for it.
SORREL SALAD.
(To serve with Lamb-cutlets, Veal-cutlets, or Roast Lamb).
This, though a very agreeable and refreshing salad, is not to be re-
commended when there is the slightest tendency to disorder of the
system; for the powerful acid of the uncooked sorrel might in that
cas. produce serious consequences.*
Take from the stems some very young tender sorrel, wash it deli-
cately clean, drain it well, and shake it dry in a salad- basket, or in a
soft cloth held by the four corners; arrange it lightly in the box,
and at the instant of serving, sauce it simply with the preceding
French dressing of oil with a small portion of vinegar, or with
Mayonnaise mixed with chili instead of a milder vinegar. The sorrel
may be divided with the fingers and mingled with an equal propor.
tion of very tender lettuces; and, when it is not objected to,f mixed
tarragon may be strewed thickly upon them. To some tastes a small
quantity of green onions or of eschalots would be more agreeable.
LOBSTER SALAD.
First, prepare a sauce with the coral of a hen lobster, pounded
and rubbed through a sieve, and very gradually mixed with a good
mayonnaise, remoulude, or English salad-dressing of the present
chapter. Next, halt fill the bowl or more with small salad herbs, or
with young lettuces inely shred, and arrange upon them spirally, or
in a chain, alternate slices of the flesh of a large lobster, or of two
middling-sized ones, and some hard-boiled eggs cut thin and erenly.
Leave a space in the centre, pour in the sauce, heap lightly some small
salad on the top, and send the dish immediately to table. The coral
of a second lobster may be intermingled with the white flesh of the
* It should be especially avoided when dysentery, or other diseases of a simi-
lar nature, are prevalent. We mention this, because if more general precaution
were observed with regard to diet, great suffering would, in many instances, be
avoided.
+ The peculiar flavour of this fine aromatic herb is less generally relished in
England than in many other countries; but when it is not disliked it may be
used with great advantage in our cookery: it is easily cultivated, and quite
deserves a nook in every kitchen-garden.


CHAP VI.] COLD SALADS, SAUCES, ETC.
143
fish with very good effect; and the forced eggs of page 137 may be
placed at intervals round the edge of the bowl as a decoration, and
an excellent accompaniment as well. Another mode of making the
salad is to lay the split bodies of the fish round the bowl, and the
claws, freed carefully from the shells, arranged high in the centre on
the herbs; the soft part of the bodies may be mixed with the sauce
when it is liked; but the colour will not then be good.
Obs.—The addition of cucumber in ribbons (see Author's Receipt,
Chapter XVII.), laid lightly round it, is always an agreeable one to
lobster salad : they may previously be sauced, and then drained from
their dressing a little.
A more wholesome and safer mode of imparting the flavour of the
cucumber, however, is to use for the salad vinegar in which that
vegetable has been steeped for some hours after having been cut up
small.
AN EXCELLENT HERRING SALAD.
(Swedish Receipt.)
Soak, skin, split, and bone a large Norway herring; lay the two sides
along a dish, and slice them slopingly (or substitute for this one or
two fine Dutch herrings). Arrange in symmetrical order over the
fish slices of cooked beet-root, cold boiled potatoes, and pickled gher-
kins; then add one or two sharp apples chopped small, and the yolks
and whites, separately minced, of some hard-boiled eggs, with any
thing else which may be at hand, and may serve to vary tastefully
the decoration of the dish. Place these ingredients in small heaps of
well-contrasting colours on the surface of the salad, and lay a border
of curled celery leaves or parsley round the bowl.
For sauce, rub the yolk of one hard-boiled egg quite smooth with
some salt; to this add oil and vinegar as for an ordinary salad, and
dilute the whole with some thick sour cream.
Obs.—"Sour cream" is an ingredient not much approved by Eng-
lish taste, but it enters largely into German cookery, and into that of
Sweden, and of other northern countries also.. About half a pound
of cold beef cut into small thin shavings or collops, is often added to
a herring-salad abroad : it may be either of simply roasted or boiled,
or of salted and smoked meat.
TARTAR SAUCE.
(Sauce à la Tartare).
Add to the preceding remoulade, or to any other sauce of the same
nature, a teaspoonful or more of made mustard, one of finely-minced
shalots, one of parsley or tarragon, and one of capers or of pickled
gherkins, with a rather high seasoning of cayenne, and some salt if
needed. The tartar-mustard of the previous chapter, or good French
mustard, is to be preferred to English for this sauce, which is usually


144
MODERN COOKERY.
[ [CHAP. VI
made very pungent, and for which any ingredients can be used to the
taste which will serve to render it so. Tarragon vinegar, minced
tarragon and eschalots, and plenty of oil, are used for it in France, in
conjunction with the yolks of one or two eggs, and chopped capers,
or gherkins, to which olives are sometimes added.
SHRIMP CHATNEY.
(Mauritian Receipt.)
Shell with care a quart of fresh shrimps (for the mode of doing
this see Chapter III.), mince them quickly upon a dish with a large
sharp knife, then turn them into a mortar and pound them to a per-
fectly smooth paste. Next, mix with them very gradually two or
three spoonstul of salad oil of the best quality, some young green
chilies chopped small (or when these cannot be procured, some good
cayenne pepper as a substitute), some young onions finely minced, a
little salt if required, and as much vinegar or strained lemon juice as
will render the sauce pleasantly acid. Half a saltspoonful or more
of powdered ginger is sometimes used in addition to the above ingre-
dients.
When they are preferred, two or three small shalots minced and well
bruised with the shrimps may be substituted for the onions.* The
proportion of oil should be double that of the vinegar used; but in
this preparation, as in all others of the same nature, individual taste
must regulate the proportion of the most powerful condiments which
enter into its composition. All chatneys should be quite thick, almost
of the consistence of mashed turnips, or stewed tomatas, or stiff bread
sauce. They are served with curries; and also with steaks, cutlets,
cold meat, and fish. In the East the native cooks crush to a pulp
upon a stone slab, and with a stone roller, the ingredients which we
direct to be pounded. On oocasion the fish might be merely minced.
When beaten to a paste, they should be well separated with a fork as
the chilies, &c., are added.
CAPSICUMB CHATNEY.
Slice transversely and very thin, into a bowl or pan of spring
water, some large tender green capsicumbs, and let them steep for an
hour or two; then drain, and dress with oil, vinegar, and salt.
For Tomata and Sausage CAATNEY, see CHAPTER OF FOREIGN
COOKERY.
• The sauce can be made without either whon their flavour is not liked.


CHAP. VII.)
145
STORE SAUCES.
CHAPTER VII.
Store Sauces.
Mushrooms, Eschalots, and Tomatas.
OBSERVATIONS.
A WELL selected stock of these will always prove a convenient re-
source in simple cookery for giving colour and flavour to soups,
gravies, and made dishes; but unless the consumption be consider-
able, they should not be over-abundantly provided, as few of them
are improved by age, and many are altogether spoiled by long keep-
ing, especially if they be not perfectly secured from the air by sound
corking, or if stored where there is the slightest degree of damp. To
prevent loss, they should be examined at short intervals, and at the
first appearance of mould or fermentation, such as will bear the pro-
cess should be reboiled, and put, when again quite cold, into clean
bottles ; a precaution often especially needful for mushroom catsup
when it has been made in a wet season, or when it has not been very
earefully prepared. This, with essence of anchovies, walnut catsup.
Harvey's sauce, cavice, lemon-pickle, chili, cucumber, and eschalot
L


146
MODERN COOKERY.
CHAP. VIL
vinegar, will be all that is commonly needed for famiiy use; but
there is at the present day an extensive choice of these stores on sale,
some of which are excellent.
CIIETNEY SAUCE.
cream.
Garlic.
(Bengal Receipt).
Stone four ounces of good raisins, and chop them
small, with half a pound of crabs, sour apples, unripe
bullaces,* or of any other hard acid fruit. Take four
ounces of coarse brown sugar, two of powdered ginger,
and the same quantity of salt and cayenne pepper;
grind these ingredicnts separately in a mortar, as fine as
possible ; then pound the fruits well, and mix the spices
with them, one by one; beat them together until they
are perfectly blended, and add gradually as much rine-
gar as will make the sauce of the consistence of thick
Put it into bottles with an ounce of garlic,
divided into cloves, and cork it tightly.
Stoned raisins, 4 oz.; crabs, or other acid fruit, { lb.;
coarse sugar, 4 oz. ; powdered ginger, 2 oz.; salt, 2 oz.;
cayenne pepper, 2 oz.; garlic, 1 oz.; vinegar, enough
to dilute it properly.
Obs. This favourite oriental sauce is compounded in a great
variety of ways; but some kind of acid fruit is essential to it. The
mango is used in India; here gooseberries, while still hard and green,
are sometimes used for it; and ripe red chilies and tomatas are mixed
with the other ingredients. The sauce keeps better if it be exposed
to a gentle degree of heat for a week or two, either by the side of the
fire, or in a full southern aspect in the sun : the heat of a very slor
oven, in which it might be left for a night, would propably have a
still better effect. In this case it must be put into a jar or bottles,
and well secured from the air. Half a pound of gooseberries, or of
these and tamarinds from the shell, and green apples mixed, and the
same weight of salt, stoned raisins, brown sugar, powdered ginger,
chilies, and garlic, with a pint and a half of vinegar, and the juice of
three large lemons, will make another genuine Bengal chetney.
FINE MUSHROOM CATSUP.
One of the very best and most useful of store sauces is good
home-made mushroom catsup, which, if really well prepared, imparts
an agreeable flavour to any soup or sauce with which it is mingled,
and at the same time heightens the colour without imparting the
• Hard acid fruit in a crude state is, we think, an ingredient not much to be
recommended; and it is always better to deviate a little from "an approved
receipt" than to endanger health by the use of ingredients of a questionable chs-
racter. Gooseberries or tomatas, after being subjected to a moderate degree of
heat, might be eaten with far less hazard.


CHAP. vii.]
STORE SAUCES.
147
“bitter sweetness" which the burnt sugar used as “browning” in
clumsy cookery so often does. The catsup ought, in fact, to be rather
the pure essence of mushrooms, made with so much salt and spice only
as are required to preserve it for a year or longer, than the com-
pound of mushroom-juice, anchovies, shalots, allspice, and other con-
diments of which it is commonly composed, especially for sale.
Directions to be observed in making and for keeping the catsup.-
Let the mushrooms be collected when the weather is dry, for if
gathered during, or immediately after rain, the catsup made with
them will not keep well.
Cut off the stalk-ends to which the earth adheres, before the mush-
rooms are broken up, and throw them aside, as they should never be
used for the catsup. Reject also such of the flaps as are worm-eaten
or decayed. Those which are too stale for use may be detected by the
smell, which is very offensive.
When the mushroom first opens, the under-side is of a fine pale
salmon colour; this changes soon to a sort of ashy-brown, which
deepens almost to black as the mushroom passes from its maturity to
a state of decay. As it yields a greater abundance of juice when it is
fully ripe, it is usually taken in that state for these sauces; but cat-
sup of fine and delicate flavour, though somewhat pale in colour, can
be made even of mushroom-buttons if they be sliced up small and
turned often in the liquid which will be speedily drawn from them
by the application of salt; a rather smaller proportion of which
should be mingled with them than is directed for the following
receipt.
Every thing used in preparing the catsup should be delicately
clean and very dry. The bottles in which it is stored, after being dried
in the usual way, should be laid into a cool oven for an hour or two
before they are filled, to ensure their being free from the slightest
degree of moisture, but they must be quite cold before the catsup is
poured into them. If the corks be sealed so as to exclude the air
effectually, or if well-cleansed bits of bladder first dried, and then
rendered flexible with a little spirit of any kind (spirits of wine is
convenient for such purposes), be tied closely over them, and the
bottles can be kept in a cool place free from damp, the catsup will
remain good for a long time.
MUSHROOM CATSUP.
Receipt:-Break up small into a deep earthen pan, two gallons of
large ripe mushroom-flaps, and strew amongst them three quarters of
a pound of salt, reserving the larger portion of it for the top. Let
them remain two days, and stir them gently with a wooden spoon
often during the time; then turn them into a large stewpan or
enamelled saucepan, heat them slowly, and simmer them for fifteen or
twenty minutes. Strain the liquor closely from them without pres ·


148
[CHAP VI,
MODERN COOKERY.
sure ; strain and measure it; put it into a very clean stewpan, and
boil it quickly until it is reduced nearly half. For every quart allow
half an ounce of black peppercorns and a drachm of mace; or, instead
of the pepper, a quarter of a teaspoonful (ten grains) of good cavenne;
pour the catsup into a clean jug or jar, lay a folded cloth over it, and
keep it in a cool place until the following day ; pour it gently from
the sediment, put into small bottles, cork them well, and rosin them
down. A teaspoonful of salad oil may be poured into each bottle before
it is corked, better to exclude the air from the catsup.
Mushrooms, 2 gallons ; salt, lb. ; to macerate three or four days.
To each quart of liquor, j oz. black pepper, or quarter of a teaspoonful
of cayenne ; and i drachm of mace: in be reduced nearly half.
Obs. 1.–Catsup made thus will not be too salt, nor will the farour
of the mushrooms be overpowered by that of the spices ; of which a
larger quantity, and a greater variety, can be used at will.
We can, however, answer for the excellence of the present receipt
from long experience of it. When the catsup is boiled down quite
early in the day, it may be bottled the same night: it is necessary
only, that it should be perfectly cold before this is done.
Obs. 2.- When the mushrooms are crushed, or mashed, as some
authors direct, the liquor will necessarily be very thick; it is better
to proceed as above, and then to boil the liquor which may after-
wards be extracted from the mushrooms by pressure, with the sedi-
ment of the catsup, and sufficient cloves, pepper, allspice, and ginger,
to flavour it highly : this second catsup will be found very useful to
mix with common thickened sauces, hashes, and stews.
MUSN ROOM CATSUP.
(Another Receipt.)
Break a peck of large mushrooms into a deep earthenpan ; strem
three quarters of a pound of salt amongst them, and set them into a
very cool oven for one night, with a fold of cloth or paper over them.
The following day strain off the liquor, measure, and boil it for fifteen
minutes ; then, for each quart, add an ounce of black pepper, :
quarter of an ounce of allspice, half an ounce of ginger, and two large
blades of mace, and let it boil fast for twenty minutes longer. When
thoroughly cold, put it into bottles, cork them well, and dip the necks
into melted bottle-cement, or seal them so as to secure the catsup from
the air.
Mushrooms, 1 peck ; salt, lb. Liquor to boil, 15 minutes. To
each quart, , oz. black pepper ; & oz. allspice ; į oz. ginger; 2 blades
mace: 20 minutes.
DOUBLE MUSHROOM CATSUP.
Ona gallon of fresh mushrooms strew three ounces of salt, and pour
quart of ready-made catsup (that which is a year old will


CHAP. VII.]
149
STORE SAUCES.
do if it be perfectly good); keep these stirred occasionally for four
days, then drain the liquor very dry from the mushrooms, and boil it
for fifteen minutes with an ounce of whole black pepper, a drachm of
mace, an ounce of ginger, and three or four grains only of cayenne.
Mushrooms, 1 gallon ; salt, 3 oz.; mushroom catsup, i quart;
peppercorns, 1 oz.; mace, 1 drachm; ginger, 1 oz.; cayenne, 3 to 4
grains : 15 minutes.
COMPOUND, OR cook's CATSUP.
Take a pint and a half of mushroom catsup when it is first made,
and ready boiled (the double is best for the purpose), simmer in it for
five minutes an ounce of small eschalots nicely peeled ; add to these
half a pint of walnut catsup, and a wineglassful of cayenne vinegar,
or of chili vinegar; give the whole one boil, pour it out, and when
cold, bottle it with the eschalots in it.
Mushroom catsup, 1} pint; eschalots, 1 oz.; walnut catsup or
pickle, i pint; cayenne or chili vinegar, 1 wineglassful
WALNUT CATSUP.
The vinegar in which walnuts have been pickled, when they have
remained in it a year, will generally answer all the purposes for
which this catsup is required, particularly if it be drained from them
and boiled for a few minutes, with a little additional spice, and a few
eschalots; but where the vinegar is objected to, it may be made either
by boiling the expressed juice of young walnuts for an hour, with six
ounces of fine anchovies, four ounces of eschalots, half an ounce of
black pepper, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, and a drachm of mace,
to every quart; or as follows:-
Pound in a mortar a hundred young walnuts, strewing amongst
them as they are done half a pound of salt; then pour to them a
quart of strong vinegar, and let them stand until they have become
quite black, keeping them stirred three or four times a day; next add
a quart of strong old beer, and boil the whole together for ten
minutes; strain it, and let it remain until the next day; then
pour
it
off clear from the sediment, add to it half a pound of anchovies, one
large heard of garlic bruised, half an ounce of nutmegs bruised, the
same quantity of cloves and black pepper, and two drachms of mace:
boil these together for half an hour, and the following day bottle and
cork the catsup well. It will keep for a dozen years. Many persons
add to it, before it is boiled, a bottle of port wine; and others recom-
mend a large bunch of sweet herbs to be put in with the spice.
1st Recipe. Expressed juice of walnuts, 1 quart; anchovies, 6 oz.;
eschalots, 4 oz.; black pepper, 1 oz.; cloves, $ oz. ; mace, 1 drachm
1 hour
2nd. Walnuts, 100 ; salt, į lb.; vinegar, 1 quart · to stand till


150
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. VII
black. Strong beer, 1 quart ; anchovies, 1 lb. ; 1 head garlic; nut.
megs, į oz. ; cloves, 1 oz.; black pepper, 1 oz.; mace, 2 drachms
1 hour.
ANOTHER GOOD RECEIPT FOR WALNUT CATSUP.
Beat a hundred green walnuts in a large marble mortar until they
are thoroughly bruised and broken, and then put them into a stone
jar, with half a pound of eschalots, cut in slices, one head of garlic,
half a pound of salt, and two quarts of vinegar ; let them stand for
ten days, and stir them night and morning. Strain off the liquor,
and boil it for half an hour with the addition of two ounces of an-
chovies, two of whole pepper, half an ounce of cloves, and two
drachms of mace; skim it well, strain it off, and when it is quite cold
pour it gently from the sediment (which may be reserved for flavour-
ing common sauces) into small dry bottles, secure it from air by sound
corking, and store it in a dry place.
Walnuts, 100 ; eschalots, 1 lb. ; garlic, 1 head, salt, , lb.; vinegar
2 quarts : 10 days. Anchovies, 2 oz.; black pepper, 2 oz.; mace,
oz. : cloves, į oz. : , hour.
LEMON PICKLE OR CATSUP.
Either divide six small lemons into quarters, remove all the pips
that are in sight, and strew three ounces of salt upon them, and keep
them turned in it for a week, or, merely make deep incisions in them,
and proceed as directed for pickled lemons. When they have stood
in a warm place for eight days, put into a stone jar two ounces and
a half of finely-scraped horseradish, and two ounces of eschalots, or
one and a half of garlic; to these add the lemons with all their liquor,
and pour on them a pint and a half of boiling vinegar in which half
an ounce of bruised ginger, a quarter of an ounce of whole white
pepper, and two blades of mace have been simmered for two or three
minutes. The pickle will be fit for use in two or three months, but
may stand four or five before it is strained off.
Small lemons, 6; salt, 3 oz.: 8 days. Horseradish, 24 oz.; escha-
lots, 2 oz., or garlic 1} oz.; vinegar, 14 pint; ginger, 1 oz.; whole
white pepper, 1 oz.; mace, 2 blades : 3 to 6 months.
Obs.-- These highly-flavoured compounds are still much in favour
with a certain class of housekeepers; but they belong exclusively to
English cookery: they are altogether opposed to the practice of the
French cuisine, as well as to that of other foreign countries.
..
PONTAC CATSUP FOR FISH.
On one pint of ripe elderberries stripped from the stalks, pour
three quarters of a pint of boiling vinegar, and let it stand in a cool
en all night; the next day strain off the liquid without pressure,


CHAP. VII.]
151
STORE SAUCES.
and boil it for five minutes with a half-teaspoonful of salt, a small
race of ginger, a blade of mace, forty corns of pepper, twelve cloves
and four eschalots. Bottle it with the spice when it is quite cold.
BOTTLED TOMATAS, OR TOMATA CATSUP.
Cut half a peck of ripe tomatas into quarters; lay them on dishes
and sprinkle over them half a pound of salt. The next day drain the
juice from them through a hair-sieve into a stew-pan, and boil it for
half an hour with three dozens of small capsicums and half a pound
of eschalots; then add the tomatas, which should be ready pulped
through a strainer. Boil the whole for thirty minutes longer; have
some clean wide-necked bottles, kept warm by the fire, fill them
with the catsup while it is quite hot; cork, and dip the necks into
melted bottle-resin or cement.
Tomatas, ļ peck ; salt, } lb. ; capsicums, 3 doz.; eschalots, 1 lb.
hour. After pulp is added, 1 hour.
Obs. This receipt has been kindly contributed by a person who
makes by it every year large quantities of the catsup, which is consi-
dered excellent: for sauce it must be mixed with gravy or melted
butter. We have not ourselves been able to make trial of it.
EPICUREAN SAUCE.
Mix well, by shaking them in a bottle, a wineglassful of Indian
soy, half a pint of chili vinegar, half a pint of walnut catsup, and a
pint and a half of the best mushroom catsup. These proportions
make an excellent sauce, either to mix with melted butter, and to
serve with fish, or to add to different kinds of gravy; but they can
be varied, or added to, at pleasure.
Indian soy, 1 wineglassful; chili vinegar, $ pint; walnut catsup,
$ pint; mushroom catsup, 1} pint.
TARRAGON VINEGAR.
Gather the tarragon just before it blossoms, which will be late in
July, or early in August; strip it from the larger stalks, and put it
into small stone jars or wide-necked bottles, and in doing this twist
some of the branches so as to bruise the leaves and wring them asun-
der; then pour in sufficient distilled or very pale vinegar to cover the
tarragon; let it infuse for two months, or more: it will take no harm
even by standing all the winter. When it is poured off, strain it very
clear, put it into small dry bottles, and cork them well. Sweet basil
vinegar is made in exactly the same way, but it should not be left on
the leaves more than three weeks. The jars or bottles should be
filled to the neck with the tarragon before the vinegar is added: its
flavour is strong and peculiar, but to many tastes very agreeable. It
imparts quite a foreign character to the dishes for which it is used.


152
[CHAP VIL
MODERN COOKERY
GREEN MINT VINEGAR.
Slightly chop, or bruise, freshly-gathered mint, and put it into
bottles; till them nearly to the necks, and add vinegar as for tarra-
gon: in forty days, strain it off, and bottle it for use.
The mint itself, ready minced for sauce, will keep well in vinegar,
though the colour will not be very good. The young leaves stripped
from the stems, should be used for this preparation.
CUCUMBER VINEGAR.
First wipe, and then, without paring, slice into a stone jar some
young and quickly-grown cucumbers ; pour on them as much boiling
vinegar as will cover them well, with a teaspoonful of salt, and two-
thirds as much of peppercorns to the pint and a half of vinegar: it
may remain on them for a month, or even for two, if well defended
from the air : it should then be strained, allowed to settle, and poured
quite clear into small dry bottles, which should be well corked. A
mild onion can be intermixed with the cucumbers, when its flavour is
considered an improvement
CELERY VINEGAR.
Throw into a pint and a half of ready boiling vinegar a few grains
of cayenne, or half an ounce of peppercorns, a large saltspoonful of
salt, and a pint of the white part of the roots and stems of some fine
fresh celery sliced up thin: let it boil for two or three minutes, turn
it into a stone jar, and secure it well from the air as soon as it is cold
It may be strained off and bottled in three or four weeks, but may
remain as many months in the jar without injury.
ESCII ALOT, OR GARLIC VINEGAR.
On from four to six ounces of eschalots or on two of garlic peeled
and bruised, pour a quart of the best vinegar; stop the jar or bottle
close, and in a fortnight or three weeks the vinegar may be strained
off for use : a few drops will give a sufficient flavour to a sauce, or to
a tureen of gravy.
Eschalots, 4 to 6 oz.; or, garlic, 2 to 4 oz.; vinegar, 1 quart: 15
to 21 days
Obs. These roots may be used in smaller or in larger proportion,
as a slighter or a stronger flavour of them is desired, and may remain
longer in the vinegar without any detriment to it
ESCHALOT WINE.
This is a far more useful preparation even than the preceding one,
wince it can be used to impart the flavour of the eschalot to dishes for


CHAP. VII.]
153
STORE SAUCES.
which acid is not required. Peel and slice, or bruise, four ounces of
eschalots, put them into a bottle, and add to them a pint of sherry;
in a fortnight pour off the wine, and should it not be strongly fla-
voured with the eschalots, steep in it two ounces more, for another
fortnight; a half-teaspoonful of cayenne may be added at first. The
bottle should be shaken occasionally, while the eschalots are infusing,
but should remain undisturbed for the last two or three days, that
the wine may be clear when it is poured off to bottle for keeping
Sweet-basil ne made by steeping the fresh leaves of the herb in
wine, from ten to fifteen days.
Eschalots, 4 oz.; sherry, 1 pint: 15 days, or more.
HORSERADISH VINEGAR,
On four ounces of young and freshly-scraped horseradish pour a
quart of boiling vinegar, and cover it down closely: it will be ready
for use in three or four days, but may remain for weeks, or months,
before the vinegar is poured off. An ounce of minced eschalot may
be substituted for one of the horseradish, if the flavour be liked.
CAYENNE VINEGAR,
Put from a quarter to half an ounce of the best cayenne pepper
into a bottle, and pour on it a pint of pale vinegar. Cork it closely,
and shake it well every two or three days. It may remain any length
of time before it is poured off, but will very soon be ready for use.
Good cayenne pepper, 1 to } oz.; vinegar, 1 pint: infuse from
2 weeks to 12 months.
:
LEMON BRANDY.
(For flavouring sweet dishes.)
Fill any sized wide-necked bottle lightly with the very thin rinds
of fresh lemons, and cover them with good brandy; let them remain
for a fortnight or three weeks only, then strain off the spirit and keep
it well corked for use: a few apricot-kernels blanched and infused
with the lemon-rind will give it an agreeable flavour.
DRIED MUSHROOMS.
Peel small, sound, freshly-gathered flaps, cut off the stems, and
scrape out the fur entirely; then arrange the mushrooms singly on
tins or dishes, and dry them as gradually as possible in a gentle oven.
Put them, when they are done, into tin_canisters, and store them
where they will be secure from damp. French cooks give them a
single boil in water, from which they then are well drained, and dried,
as usual. When wanted for table, they should be put into cold gravy,
slowly heated, and gently simmered, until they are tender.


154
[CHAP. VIL
MODERN COOKERY.
MUSHROOM POWDER.
When the mushrooms have been prepared with great nicety, and
dried, as in the foregoing receipt, pound them to a very fine powder;
sift it, and put it immediately into small and perfectly dry bottles;
cork and seal them without delay, for if the powder be long exposed
to the air, so as to imbibe any humidity, or if it be not well secured
from it in the bottles, it will be likely to become putrid : much of
that which is purchased, even at the best Italian warehouses, is found
to be so, and, as it is sold at a very high price, it is a great economy,
as well as a surer plan, to have it carefully prepared at home. It is
an exceedingly useful store, and an excellent addition to many dishes
and sauces. To insure its being good, the mushrooms should be
gathered in dry weather, and if any addition of spices be made to the
powder (some persons mix with it a seasoning of mace and cayenne),
they should be put into the oven for a while before they are used :
but even these precautions will not be sufficient, unless the powder be
stored in a very dry place after it is bottled. A teaspoonful of it,
with a quarter of a pint of strong veal gravy, as much cream, and a
small dessertspoonful of flour, will make a good béchamel or white
sauce.
EXCELLENT POTATO FLOUR, OR ARROWROOT.
(Fecule de Pommes de terre.)
Grate into a large vessel full of cold water, six pounds of sound
mealy potatoes, and stir them well together. In six hours pour off
the water, and add fresh, stirring the mixture well; repeat this pro-
cess every three or four hours during the day, change the water at
night, and the next morning pour it off; put two or three quarts
more to the potatoes, and turn them directly into a hair-sieve, set
over a pan to receive the flour, which may then be washed through
the sieve, by pouring water to it. Let it settle in the pan, drain off
the water, spread the potato-sediment on dishes, dry it in a slow oven,
sift it, and put it into bottles or jars, and cork or cover them closely.
The four thus made will be beautifully white, and perfectly flavour-
less. It will remain good for years.
Obs. This admirable farina, or starch of potatoes, is now much
more widely known and vended in England than it was some years
since. It can at present be procured at most foreign warehouses and
general grocers' ; but we would recommend its being home-made by
the directions given above, which we have had closely followed for
many years with the best possible success.
TO MAKE FLOUR OF RICE.
Take any quantity of whole rice, wash it thoroughly, changing the
eroter several times; drain and press it in a cloth, then spread it on a


CHAP. VII.]
155
STORE SAUCES
dish, and dry it perfectly; beat it in a mortar to a smooth powder,
and siſt it through a fine sieve. When used to thicken soup or
sauces, mix it with a small quantity of cold water or of broth, and
pour it to them while they are boiling.
This flour, when newly made, is of much purer flavour than any
usually prepared for sale.
POWDER OF SAVOURY HERBS.
All herbs which are to be dried for storing should be gathered in
fine weather; cleared from dirt and decayed leaves; and dried quickly,
but without scorching, in a Dutch oven before the fire, or in any
other that is not too much heated. The leaves should then be
stripped from the stalks, pounded, sifted, and closely corked in sepa-
rate bottles; or several kinds may be mixed and pounded together for
the convenience of seasoning in an instant gravies, soups, forcemeats,
and made dishes: appropriate spices, celery-seed, and dried lemon-
peel, all in fine powder, can be added to the herbs.
TARTAR MUSTARD.
Rub four ounces of the best Durham mustard very smooth with a
full teaspoonful of salt, and wet it by degrees with strong horseradish
vinegar, a dessertspoonful of cayenne, or of chili vinegar, and one or
two of tarragon vinegar when its flavour is not disliked. A quarter
of a pint of vinegar poured boiling upon an ounce of scraped horse-
radish, and left for one night, closely covered, will be ready to use
for this mustard, but it will be better for standing two or three days.
Durham mustard, 4 oz.; salt, large teaspoonful; cayenne, or chili
vinegar, 1 dessertspoonful ; horseradish vinegar, third of pint.
Obs. This is an exceedingly pungent compound, but has many
approvers.
ANOTHER TARTAR MUSTARD.
Mix the salt and mustard smoothly, with equal parts of horseradish
vinegar, and of chili vinegar. Mustard made by these receipts will
keep long, if put into jars or bottles and closely corked. Cucumber,
eschalot, or any other of the flavoured vinegars for which we have
given receipts, may in turn be used for it, and mushroom, gherkin, or
India pickle-liquor, likewise.


156
[char. TILI.
MODERN COOKERY,
CHAPTER VIII.
Forcemcats.
GENERAL REMARKS.
The coarse and unpalatable com-
pounds so constantly met with
under the denomination of force-
meat, even at tables otherwise
tolerably well served, show with
how little attention they are com-
monly prepared.
Many very indifferent cooks
pique themselves on never doing
Weighing Machine.
any thing by rule, and the conse-
quence of their throwing together at random (or “by guess" as they
call it) the ingredients which ought to be proportioned with exceeding
exactness is repeated failure in all they attempt to do. Long expe-
rience, and a very correct eye may, it is true, enable a person to
dispense with weights and measures without hazarding the success of
their operations; but it is an experiment which the learner will do
better to avoid.
A large marble or Wedgwood mortar is indispensable in making all
the finer kinds of forcemeat; and equally so indeed for many other
purposes in cookery; no kitchen, therefore, should be without one ;*
and for whatever preparation it may be used, the pounding should be
continued with patience and perseverance until not a single lump or
fibre be perceptible in the mass of the articles beaten together. This
particularly applies to potted meats, which should resemble the
smoothest paste; as well as to several varieties of forcemeat. Of
these last it should be observed, that such as are made by the French
method (see quenelles) are the most appropriate for an elegant dinner,
• Two or three mortars, varying in size, should be in every household where it
is expected that the cookery should be well conducted: they are often required
also for many other domestic purposes, yet it is not unusual to find both these
and scales, weights, and measures of every kind, altogether wanting in English
kitens.


CHAP. VIII.]
157
FORCEMEATS.
either to serve in soups or to fill boned poultry of any kind; but
when their exceeding lightness, which to foreigners constitutes one of
their great excellences, is objected to, it may be remedied by substi-
tuting dry crumbs of bread for the panada, and pounding a small
quantity of the lean of a boiled ham, with the other ingredients: how-
ever, this should be done only for the balls.
No particular herb or spice should be allowed to predominate
powerfully in these compositions; but the whole of the seasonings
should be taken in such quantity only as will produce an agreeable
savour when they are blended together.
NO. 1.
GOOD COMMON FORCEMEAT, FOR ROAST VEAL,
TURKEYS, &c.
Grate very lightly into exceedingly fine crumbs, four ounces of the
inside of a stale loaf, and mix thoroughly with it
, a quarter of an
ounce of lemon-rind pared as thin as possible, and minced extremely
small; the same quantity of savoury herbs, of which two-thirds
should be parsley, and one-third thyme, likewise finely minced, a little
grated nutmeg, a half teaspoonful of salt, and as much common
pepper or cayenne as will season the forcemeat sufficiently. Break
into these, two ounces of good butter in very small bits, add the
unbeaten yolk of one egg, and with the fingers work the whole well
together until it is smoothly mixed. It is usual to chop the lemon-
rind, but we prefer it lightly grated on a fine grater. It should
always be fresh for the purpose, or it will be likely to impart a very
unpleasant flavour to the forcemeat. Half the rind of a moderate-
sized lemon will be sufficient for this quantity; which for a large
turkey must be increased one-half.
Bread-crumbs, 4 oz.; lemon-rind, 1 oz. (or grated rind of į lemon);
mixed savoury herbs, minced, † oz.; salt, 4 teaspoonful; pepper, & to
of teaspoonful; butter, 2 oz. ; yolk, 1 egg.
Obs.-- This, to our taste, is a much nic
and more
cate force-
meat than that which made with suet, and we would recommend it
for trial in preference. Any variety of herb or spice may be used to
give it flavour, and a little minced onion or eschalot can be added to
it also; but these last do not appear to us suited to the meats for
which the forcemeat is more particularly intended. Half an ounce of
the butter may be omitted on ordinary occasions: and a portion of
marjoram or of sweet basil may take the place of part of the thyme
and parsley when preferred to them.
NO. 2.
ANOTHER GOOD COMMON FORCEMEAT.
Add to four ounces of bread-crumbs two of the lean of a boiled
ham, quite free from sinew, and very finely minced; two of good
butter, a dessertspoonful of herbs, chopped small, some lemon-grate,
nutnieg, a little salt, a good seasoning of pepper or cayenne and one


168
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. VIII.
whole egg, or the yolks of two. This may be fried in balls of mode.
rare size, for five minutes, to serve with roast veal, or it may be put
into the joint in the usual way.
Bread-crumbs, 4 oz.; lean of ham, 2 oz.; butter, 2 oz.; minced
herbs, 1 dessertspoonful; lemon-grate, 1 teaspoonful; nutmeg, mace,
and cayenne, together, 1 small teaspoonful; little salt; 1 whole egg,
or yolks of 2.
No. 3. SUPERIOR SUET FORCEMEAT, FOR VEAL, TURKEYS, &c.
Mix well together six ounces of fine stale crumbs, with an equal
weight of beer kidney suet, chopped extremely small, a large dessert-
spoonful of parsley, mixed with a little lemon-thyme, a teaspoonful
of salt, a quarter one of cayenne, and a saltspoonful or rather more
of mace and nutmeg together; work these up with three unbeaten
egg-yolks, and three teaspoonsful of milk; then put the forcemeat
into a large mortar, and pound it perfectly smooth. Take it out, and
let it remain in a cool place for half an hour at least before it is used;
then roll it into balls, if it be wanted to serve in that form ; flour and
fry them gently from seven to eight minutes, and dry them well
before they are dished.
Beef suet finely minced, 6 oz.; bread-crumbs, 6 oz.; parsley,
mixed with little thyme, 1 large dessertspoonful; salt, 1 teaspoonful;
mace, large saltspoonful, and one fourth as much cayenne; unbeaten
egg-yolks, 3; milk, 3 teaspoonsful: well pounded. "Fried in balls, 7
to 8 minutes, or poached, 6 to 7.
Obs.- The finely grated rind of half a lemon can be added to this
forcemeat at pleasure; and for some purposes a morsel of garlic, or
three or four minced eschalots, may be mixed with it before it is put
into the mortar.
No. 4.
COMMON SUET FORCEMEAT.
Beef suet is commonly used in the composition of this kind of
forcemeat, but we think that veal-kidney suet, when it could be
obtained, would have a better effect; though the reader will easily
comprehend that it is scarcely possible for us to have every variety of
every receipt which we insert put to the test; in some cases we are
compelled merely to suggest what appear to us likely to be improve-
ments. Strip carefully every morsel of skin from the suet, and
mince it small; to six ounces add eight of bread-crumbs, with the
same proportion of herbs, spice, salt, and lemon-peel, as in the fore-
going receipt, and a couple of whole eggs, which should be very
slightly beaten, after the specks have been taken out with the point
of a small fork. Should more liquid be required, the yolk of another
egg, or a spoonful or two of milk, may be used. Half this quantity
will be sufficient for a small joint of veal, or for a dozen balls, which,
when it is more convenient to serve it in that form, may be fried or


CHAP. VIII159
..
FORCEMEATS.
]
browned beneath the roast, and then dished round it, though this last
is not a very refined mode of dressing them. From eight to ten
minutes will fry them well.
NO. 5.
OYSTER FORCEMEAT.
Open carefully a dozen of fine plump natives, take off the beards,
strain their liquor, and rinse the oysters in it. Grate four ounces of
the crumb of a stale loaf into fine light crumbs, mince the oysters but
not too small, and mix them with the bread; add an ounce and a half
of good butter broken into minute bits, the grated rind of half a small
lemon, a small saltspoonful of pounded mace, some cayenne, a little
salt, and a large teaspoonful of parsley. Mingle these ingredients
well, and work them together with the unbeaten yolk of one egg and
a little of the oyster liquor, the remainder of which can be added to
the sauce which usually accompanies this forcemeat.
Oysters, 1 dozen; bread-crumbs, 4 oz.; butter, 1} oz.; rind small
lemon ; mace, 1 saltspoonful; some cayenne and salt; minced parsley,
1 large teaspoonful; yolk 1 egg; oyster-liquor, 1 dessertspoonful:
rolled into balls, and fried from 7 to 10 minutes, or poached from 5
to 6 minutes.
Obs.- In this preparation the flavour of the oysters should prevail
entirely over that of all the other ingredients which are mixed with
them.
Obs. 2.—The oyster-sausages of Chapter III. will serve excellently
for forcemeat also
NO. 6.
A FINER OYSTER FORCEMEAT,
Pound the preceding forcemeat to the smoothest paste, with the
addition only of half an ounce of fresh butter, should it be sufficiently
dry to allow of it. It is remarkably good when thus prepared, and
may be poached or fried in balls for soups or made dishes, or used to
fill boned fowls, or the breasts of boiled turkeys with equally good
effect.
NO. 7.
MUSHROOM FORCEMEAT.
Cut closely off the stems of some small, just-opened mushrooms,
peel them, and take out the fur. Dissolve an ounce and a half of
good butter in a saucepan, throw them into it with a little cayenne
and a slight sprinkling of mace, and stew them softly, keeping them
well shaken, from five to seven minutes; then turn them into a dish,
spread them over it, and raise one end, that the liquid may drain
from them. When they are quite cold, mince, and then mix them
witn four ounces of fine bread-crumbs, an ounce and a half of good
butter, and part of that in which they were stewed should the force-
meat appear too moist to admit of the whole, as the yolk of one egg,


160
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. VII.
at the least, must be added, to bind the ingredients together; strew
in a saltspoonful of salt, a third as much of cayenne, and about the
same quantity of mace and nutmeg, with a teaspoonful of grated
lemon-rind. The seasonings must be rather sparingly used, tl at the
flavour of the mushrooms may not be overpowered by them. Mis
the whole thoroughly with the unbeaten yolk of one egg, or of two,
and use the forcemeat poached in small balls for soup, or fried and
served in the dish with roast fowls, or round minced veal ; or to fill
boiled fowls, partridges, or turkeys.
Small mushrooms, peeled and trimmed, 4 oz.; butter 1} oz.; slight
sprinkling mace and cayenne: 5 to 7 minutes. Mushrooms minced ;
bread-crumbs, 4 oz.; butter, 1} oz. (with part of that used in the
stewing); salt, 1 saltspoonful; third as much of cayenne, of mace,
and of nutmeg; grated lemon-rind, 1 teaspoonful; yolk of 1 or 2
eggs. In balls, poached, 5 to 6 minutes ; fried, 6 to 8 minutes.
Obs.—This, like most other forcemeats, is improved by being well
beaten in a large mortar after it is entirely mixed.
NO. 8.
FORCEMEAT FOR HARE.
The first receipt of this chapter will be found very good for hare
without any variation ; but the liver boiled for three minutes and
finely minced, may be added to it when it is thought an improvement:
another half ounce of butter, and a small portion more of egg will
then be required. A couple of ounces of rasped bacon, and a glass of
port-wine, are sometimes recommended for this forcemeat, but we
think it is better without them, especially when slices of bacon are
used to line the hare. A flavouring of minced onion or eschalot can
be added when the taste is in its favour; or the forcemeat No. 3 may
be substituted for this altogether
NO. 9.
ONION AND SAGE STUFFING, FOR PORK, GEESE,
OR DUCKS.
Boil three large onions from ten to fifteen minutes, press the water
from them, chop them small, and mix with them an equal quantity of
bread-crumbs, a heaped tablespoonful of minced sage, an ounce of
butter, a half saltspoonful of pepper, and twice as much of salt, and
put them into the body of the goose; part of the liver boiled for two
or three minutes and shred tine, is sometimes added to these, and the
whole is bound together with the yolk of one egg or two; but they
are quite as frequently served without. The onions can be used raw,
when their very strong flavour is not objected to, but the odour of
the whole dish will then be somewhat overpowering.
Large onions, 3; boiled 20 to 30 minutes. Sage, 2 to 3 dessert-
spoonsful (or to oz.); butter, 1 oz. ; pepper, & teaspoonful, salt,
1 teaspoonful


CHAP. VIII.)
161
FORCEMEATS.
The body of a goose is sometimes cntirely filled with mashed pota-
toes, seasoned with salt and pepper only; or mixed with a small
quantity of eschalot, onion, or herb-seasonings.
NO, 10.
MR. COOKE'S FORCEMEAT FOR DUCKS OR GEESE.
Two parts of chopped onion, two parts of bread-crumbs, three of
butter, one of pounded sage, and a seasoning of pepper and salt.
This receipt we have not proved.
NO. 11. FORCEMEAT BALLS FOR MOCK TURTLE SOUPS.
The French forcemeat, No. 17 of the present Chapter, is the most
refined and appropriate forcemeat to serve in mock turtle, but a more
solid and highly seasoned one is usually added to it in this country.
In very common cookery the ingredients are merely chopped small
and mixed together with a moistening of eggs; but when the trouble
of pounding and blending them properly is objected to, we would
recommend the common veal forcemeat No. 1, in preference; as the
undressed veal and suet, when merely minced, do not produce a good
effect. Four ounces each of these, with an ounce or so of the lean of
a boiled ham, and three ounces of bread-crumbs, a large dessert-
spoonful of minced parsley, a small portion of thyme or marjoram, a
saltspoonful of white pepper, twice as much or more of salt, a little
cayenne, half a small nutmeg, and a couple of eggs, well mixed with
a fork first to separate the meat, and after the moistening is added,
with the fingers, then rolled into balls, and boiled in a little soup for
twelve minutes, is the manner in which it is prepared ; but the reader
will find the following receipt very superior to it :-- Rasp, that is to
say, scrape with a knife clear from the fibre, four ounces of veal,
which should be cut into thick slices, and taken quite free from skin
and fat; chop it fine, and then pound it as smoothly as possible in a
large mortar, with three ounces of the rasped fat of an unboiled ham
of good flavour or of the finest bacon, and one of butter, two ounces
of bread-crumbs, a tablespoonful of the lean of a boiled ham, should
it be at hand, a goed seasoning of cayenne, nutmeg, and mace, mixed
together, a heaped dessertspoonful of minced herbs, and the yolks of
two eggs; poach a small bit when it is mixed, and add any further
seasoning it may require; and when it is of good flavour, roll it into
balls of moderate size, and boil them twelve minutes; then drain and
drop them into the soup. No forcemeat should be boiled in the soup
itself, on account of the fat which would escape from it in the process:
a little stock should be reserved for the purpose.
Very common :- Lean of neck of veal, 4 oz.; beef-kidney suet, 4
oz., both finely chopped; bread-crumbs, 3 oz.; minced parsley, large
dessertspoonful; thyme or marjoram, small teaspoonful: lean of boiled
ham, 1 to 2 oz. i white pepper, 1 saltspoonful; salt, twice as much;
& small nutmeg; cggs, 2: in balls, 12 minutes.
M


162
[CHAP. VIII.
MODERN COOKERY.
Better forcemeat:-Lean veal rasped, 4 oz.; fat of unboiled ham,
or finest bacon, 3 oz ; butter, 1 oz.; bread-crumbs, 2 oz.; lean of
boiled ham, minced, 1 large tablespoonful; minced herbs, 1 heaped
dessertspoonful; full seasoning of mace, nutmeg, and cayenne, mixed;
yolks of eggs, 2: 12 minutes.
NO. 12.
EGG BALLS.
Boil four or five new-laid eggs for ten or twelve minutes, and lay
them into fresh water until they are cold. Take out the yolks, and
pound them smoothly with the beaten yolk of one raw egg, or more,
if required; add a little salt and cayenne, roll the mixture into balls
the size of marbles, and boil them for two minutes. Half a teaspoon-
ful of flour is sometimes worked up with the eggs.
Hard yolks of eggs, 4; 1 raw; little salt and cayenne: 2 minutes.
NO. 13.
BRAIN CAKES.
Wash and soak the brains well in cold water, and afterwards in hot;
free them from the skin and large fibres, and boil them in water,
slightly salted, from two to three minutes; beat them up with a tea-
spoonful of sage very finely chopped, or with equal parts of sage and
parsley, half a teaspoonful or rather more of salt, half as much mace,
a little white pepper or cayenne, and one egg; drop them in small
cakes into the pan, and fry them in butter a fine light brown: two
yolks of eggs will make the cakes more delicate than the white and
yolk of one. A teaspoonful of flour and a little lemon-grate are
sometimes added.
NO. 14. ANOTHER RECEIPT FOR BRAIN CAKES.
Boil the brains in a little good veal-gravy very gently for ten
minutes ; drain them on a sieve, and when cold cut them into thick
dice; dip them into beaten yolk of egg, and then into very fine bread-
crumbs, mixed with salt, pounded spices, and fine herbs minced
extremely small; fry them of a light brown, drain and dry them
well, and drop them into the soup or hash after it is dished. When
broth or gravy is not at hand, the brains may be boiled in water.
NO. 15.
CHESTNUT FORCEMEAT.
Strip the outer skin from some fine sound chestnuts, then throw
them into a saucepan of hot water, and set them over the fire for a
minute or two, when they may easily be blanched like almonds. Put
them into cold water as they are peeled. Dry them in a cloth, and
weigh them. Stew six ounces of them very gently from fifteen to
twenty minutes, in just sufficient strong veal-gravy to cover them.


CHAP. VIII.]
163
FORCEMEATS.
Take them up, drain them on a siere, and when cold pound them
perfectly smooth with half their weight of the nicest bacon rasped
clear from all rust or fibre, or with an equal quantity of fresh butter,
two ounces of dry bread crumbs, a small teaspoonful of grated lemon
rind, one of salt, half as much mace or nutmeg, a moderate quantity
of cayenne, and the unbeaten yolks of two or of three eggs. This
mixture makes most excellent forcemeat cakes, which must be moulded
with a knife, a spoon, or the fingers, dipped in flour; more should be
dredged over, and pressed upon them, and they should be slowly fried
from ten to fifteen minutes.
Chestnuts, 6 oz.; veal-gravy, į of a pint : 15 to 20 minutes.
Bacon or butter, 3 oz.; bread-crumbs, 2 oz.; lemon-peel and salt,
1 teaspoonful each.
NO, 16.
AN EXCELLENT FRENCH FORCEMEAT.
Take six ounces of veal free from fat and skin, cut it into dice and
put it into a saucepan with two ounces of butter, a large teaspoonful
of parsley finely
minced, half as much thyme, salt, and grated lemon-
rind, and a sufficient seasoning of nutmeg, cayenne, and mace, to
flavour it pleasantly. Stew these very gently from twelve to fifteen
minutes, then lift out the veal and put into the saucepan two ounces
of bread-crumbs; let them simmer until they have absorbed the
gravy yielded by the meat; keep them stirred until they are as dry
as possible; beat the yolk of an egg to them while they are hot, and
set them aside to cool. Mince and pound the veal, add the bread to
it as soon as it is cold, beat them well together, with an ounce and a
half of fresh butter, and two of the finest bacon, quite freed from rust,
and scraped clear of skin and fibre; put to them the yolks of two
small eggs and mix them well; then take the forcemeat from the
mortar, and set it in a very cool place until it is wanted for use.
Veal, 6 oz.; butter, 2 oz.; minced parsley, 1 teaspoonful; thyme,
salt, and lemon-peel, each 1 teaspoonful; little nutmeg, cayenne, and
12 to 15 minutes. Bread-crumbs, 2 oz.; butter, 1} oz.;
rasped bacon, 2 oz.; yolk of eggs, 2 to 3.
Obs.- When this forcemeat is intended to fill boned fowls, the
livers of two or three boiled for four minutes, or stewed with the veal
for the same length of time, then minced and pounded with the other
ingredients, will be found a great improvement; and, if mushrooms
can be procured, two tablespoonsful of them chopped small, should
be stewed and beaten with it also. A small portion of the best end of
the neck will afford the quantity of lean required for this receipt, and
the remains of it will make excellent gravy.
mace:
NO. 17. FRENCH FORCEMEAT CALLED QUENELLES.
This is a peculiarly light and delicate kind of forcemeat, which by
good French cooks is compounded with exceeding care. It is served


164
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. VIIL
abroad in a variety of forms, and is made of very finely-grained white
veal, or of the undressed flesh of poultry, or of rabbits, rasped quite
free from sinew, then chopped and pounded to the finest paste, first
by itself, and afterwards with an equal quantity of boiled calf's udder
or of butter, and of panada, which is but another name for bread
soaked in cream or gravy and then dried over the fire until it forms a
sort of paste. As the three ingredients should be equal in rolume,
not in weight, they are each rolled into a separate ball before they
are mixed, that their size may be determined by the eye. When the
fat of the fillet of veal (which in England is not often divided for
sale, as it is in France) is not to be procured, a rather less proportion
of butter will serve in its stead. The following will be found a very
good, and not a troublesome receipt for veal forcemeat of this kind
Rasp quite clear from sinew, after the fat and skin have been
entirely cleared from it, four ounces of the finest veal; chop, and
pound it well: if it be carefully prepared there will be no necessity
for passing it through a sieve, but this should otherwise be done.
Soak in a small saucepan two ounces of the crumb of a stale loaf in a
little rich but pale veal gravy or white sauce; then press and drain
as much as possible of the moisture from it, and stir it over a gentle
fire until it is as dry as it will become without burning: it will adhere
in a ball to the spoon, and leave the saucepan quite dry when it is
sufficiently done. Mix with it, while it is still hot, the yolk of one
egg, and when it is quite cold, add it to the veal with three ounces of
very fresh butter, a quarter of a teaspoonful of mace, half as much
cayenne, a little nutmeg, and a saltspoonful of salt. When these are
perfectly beaten and well blended together, add another whole egg
after having merely taken out the specks: the mixture will then be
ready for use, and may be moulded into balls, or small thick oral
shapes a little flattened, and poached in soup or gravy from ten to
fifteen minutes. These quenelles may be served by themselves in a
rich sauce as a corner dish, or in conjunction with other things
They may likewise be first poached for three or four minutes, and left
on a drainer to become cold; then dipped into egg and the finest
bread-crumbs and fried, and served as croquettes.
NO. 18.
FORCEMEAT FOR RAISED AND OTHER COLD PIES.
The very finest sausage-mcat highly seasoned, and made with an
equal proportion of fat and lean, is an exceedingly good forcemeat for
veal, chicken, rabbit, and some few other pies; savoury herbs minced
small may be added to heighten its flavour if it be intended for
immediate eating; but it will not then remain good quite so long,
unless they should have been previously dried. To prevent its being
too dry, two or three spoonsful of cold water should be mixed with it
before it is put into the pie. One pound of lean veal to one and a
iter of the pork-fat is sometimes used, and smoothly pounded


CHAP. VII.]
165
FORCEMEATS.
with a high seasoning of spices, herbs, and eschalots, or garlic; but
we cannot recommend the introduction of these last into pies unless
they are especially ordered : mushrooms or trufiles may be mixed
with any kind of forcemeat with far better effect. Equal parts of
veal and fat bacon, will also make a good forcemeat for pies, if
chopped finely, and well spiced.
Sausage-meat, well seasoned. Or: veal, 1 lb.; pork-fat, 1} .;
salt, 1 oz.; pepper, 1 to } oz.; fine herbs, spice, &c., as in forcemeat
No. 1, or sausage-meat. Or: veal and bacon, equal weight, seasoned
in the same way.
PANADA.
This is the name given to the soaked bread which is mixed with
the French forcemeats, and which renders them so peculiarly delicate.
Pour on the crumb of two or three rolls, or on that of any other
very light bread, as much good boiling broth, milk, or cream, as will
cover and moisten it well; put a plate over to keep in the steam, and
let it remain for half an hour, or more; then drain off the super-
fluous liquid, and squeeze the panada dry by wringing it in a thin
cloth into a ball; put it into a small stewpan or enamelled saucepan,
and pour to it as much only of rich white sauce or of gravy as it can
easily absorb, and stir it constantly with a wooden spoon over a clear
and gentle fire, until it forms a very dry paste and adheres in a mass
to the spoon; when it is in this state, mix with it thoroughly the
unbeaten yolks of two fresh eggs, which will give it firmness, and set
it aside to become quite cold before it is put into the mortar. The
best French cooks give the highest degree of savour that they can to
this panada, and add no other seasoning to the forcemeats of which it
forms a part: it is used in an equal proportion with the meat, and
with the calf's udder or butter of which they are composed, as we
have shown in the preceding receipt for quenelles. They stew slowly
for the purpose, a small bit of lean ham, two or three minced escha-
lots, a bayleaf, a few mushrooms, a little parsley, a clove or two, and
a small blade of mace in a little good butter, and when they are
sufficiently browned, pour to them as much broth or gravy as will be
needed for the panada; and when this has simmered from twenty to
thirty minutes, so as to have acquired the proper flavour withou
'being much reduced, they strain it over, and boil it into the bread.
The common course of cookery in an English kitchen does not often
require the practice of the greater niceties and refinements of the art:
and trouble (of which the French appear to be perfectly regardless
when the excellence of their preparations is concerned) is there in
general so much thought of, and exclaimed against, that a more
summary process would probably meet with a better chance of
A quicker and rougher mode of making the panada, and indeca
success.


166
MODERN COOKERY.
[chap. VIIL
the forcemeat altogether, is to pour strong veal broth or gravy upon
it, and after it has soaked, to boil it dry, without any addition except
that of a little fine spice, lemon-grate, or any other favourite English
seasoning. Minced herbs, salt, cayenne, and mace, may be beaten
with the meat, to which a small portion of well-pounded ham may
likewise be added at pleasure.


CIAP. IX.]
167
BOILING, ROASTING, ETC.
CHAPTER IX.
.
Boiling, Roasting, etc.
A THOROUGH practical knowledge of the processes described in the
present chapter will form a really good cook far sooner and more
completely than any array of mere receipts can do, however minutely
they may be explained; they should, therefore, be well studied and
comprehended, before any attempt is made to compoun d difficult
dishes; and the principles of roasting, boiling, stewing, and baking,
at least, ought to be clearly understood by every servant who under-
takes the duties of what is called plain cookery, which is, in fact, of
more importance than any other, because it is in almost universal
request in this country for families of moderate fortune; and any
person who excels in it will easily become expert in what are consi-
dered the higher branches of the art.
In a vast number of English kitchens the cookery fails from the
hurried manner in which it is conducted, and from the excess of heat
produced by the enormous coal-fires constantly kept burning there
at all seasons, without which ignorant servants imagine no dinner can
be properly cooked; a mistake which cannot fail quickly to become
apparent to the most inexperienced reader who will give a patient
trial to the slow methods of cooking recommended in the following
pages. These will be found to combine exceeding economy in the
consumption of fuel, with a degree of superiority in the food prepared
by them, which would scarcely be credited unless it were put to the
test. In stewing, and baking in closely covered vessels, this supe-
riority is more particularly remarkable; and we would willingly give
a far larger space to so useful a subject than our limits will permit:
we are, however, compelled, though with regret, to restrict ourselves
to such details as we have now supplied in various parts of this
volume.
TO BOIL MEAT.
Boiling, in the usual English manner, is the least advantageous of
all modes of cooking meat, because a large portion of the nourishment


168
[CHAP. IX.
MODERN COOKERY.
which it contains is withdrawn from it in
the process, and it is usually very insipid
in flavour.
We have aleady given, at the com-
mencement of Chapter I., the substance
of Liebeg's instructions for scientific boil-
ing; but for the convenience of the reader,
we will briefly recapitulate them here,
with such additions as our own observa-
Iron Boiler.
tion has enabled us to supply.
In making soup, gravy, or savoury jelly of any kind, the principal
object is to extract from the meat used for the preparation, all the
nutriment and savour which it can be made to yield. This is effected
by putting it into cold water, and heating it very slowly indeed, and
then keeping it for a specified time at the point of boiling, or letting
it simmer in the gentlest manner; but when the meat itself is required
for food, its nutritious juices must be prevented from escaping as
much as possible, which is done by plunging it into fast boiling water
for a few minutes, to contract the pores of the surface (to harden it,
in fact), and adding immediately afterwards as much cold water as
will reduce the whole to a moderate temperature. Part of the water
should then be taken away, as meat should never be cooked in a
larger quantity than is absolutely needed to keep it entirely covered
until it is ready to serve; for this reason it should be always boiled
in a vessel nearly of its own size.
Large joints should be neatly trimmed, washed extremely clean,
and skewered or bound firmly into good shape, when they are of a
nature to require it; brought to boil over a moderate fire, and sim-
mered until they are done, the scum being carefully and entirely
cleared from the surface of the water, as it gathers there, which will
be principally from within a few minutes of its beginning to boil, and
during a few minutes afterwards. If not thoroughly skimmed off at
the proper time, it will sink, and adhere to the joint, giving it a very
uninviting appearance.
Pickled or salted meat requires longer boiling than fresh ; and that
which is smoked and dried longer still: this last should always be
laid into cold water, slowly heated, and if, from any circumstances,
time cannot have been allowed for soaking it properly and there is a
probability of its being too salt when served, it should be brought
very softly to boil in a large quantity of water, which should in part
be changed as soon as it becomes quite briny, for as much more that
is ready boiling.
It is customary to lay rounds of beef, and other large joints, upon
a fish-plate, or to throw some wooden skewers under them, to prevent
their sticking to the vessel in which they are cooked; and it is as
well to take the precautior, though unless they be placed over a very
fierce fire, they cannot be in danger of this. The time allowed for
there is about the same as for roasting, from fifteen to twenty minutes


CHAP IX.] BOILING, ROASTING, ETC.
169
to the pound. For cooking rounds of beef,
and other ponderous joints, a pan of this
form is very convenient.
By means of two almost equally expen-
sive preparations, called a poêlée, and a blanc,
the insipidity which results from boiling
meat or vegetables in water only may be
removed, and the whiteness of either will be
better preserved. Turkeys, fowls, sweet-
Large Stockpot.
breads, calf's brains, cauliflowers, and artichoke bottoms, are the
articles for which the poêlée and the blanc are more especially used in
expensive foreign cookery: the reader will judge by the following
receipts how far they are admissible into that of the economist.

POÊLÉE.
Cut into large dice two pounds of lean veal, and two pounds of fat
bacon cured without saltpetre, two large carrots, and two onions; to
these add half a pound of fresh butter, put the whole into a stewpan,
and stir it with a wooden spoon over a gentle fire until the veal is
very white, and the bacon is partially melted ; then pour to them
three pints of clear boiling broth or water, throw in four cloves, a
small bunch or two of thyme and parsley, a bay-leaf, and a few corns
of white pepper; boil these gently for an hour and a half, then strain
the poêlée through a fine sieve, and set it by in a cool place. Use it
instead of water for boiling the various articles we have already
named: it will answer for several in succession, and will remain good
for many days. Some cooks order a pound of butter in addition to
the bacon, and others substitute beef-suet in part for this last.
A BLANC.
Put into a stewpan one pound of fat bacon rasped, one pound of
beef-suet cut small, and one pound of butter; the strained juice of
two lemons, a couple of bay-leaves, three cloves, three carrots, and
three onions divided into dice, and less than half a pint of water.
Simmer these gently, keeping them often stirred, until the fat is well
melted, and the water has evaporated; then pour in rather more than
will be required for the dish which is to be cooked in the blanc; boil
it softly until all the ingredients have given out their full flavour,
skim it well, add salt if needed, and strain it off for use. A calf's head
is often boiled in this.
ROASTING.
Roasting, which is quite the favourite mode of dressing meat in
this country, and one in which the English are thought to excel,
requires unremitting attention on the part of the cook rather than


170
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. IX.
T
any great exertion of skill. Large
kitchens are usually fitted with a smoke-
jack, by means of which several spits if
needful can be kept turning at the same
time; but in small establishments, a
roaster which allows of some economy
in point of fuel is more commonly used.
That shown in the print is of very ad-
vantageous construction in this respect,
as a joint may be cooked in it with a
comparatively small fire, the heat being
strongly reflected from the screen upon
the meat : in consequence of this, it
should never be placed very close to
the grate, as the surface of the joint
would then become dry and hard.
A more convenient form of roaster,
with a spit placed horizontally, and
turned by means of a wheel and chain,
of which the movement is regulated by
Bottle Jack.
a spring contained in a box at the top,
is of the same economical order as the one above; but eaters of very
delicate taste urge, as an objection to
this apparatus, as well as to that shown
above, that the meat cooked in either,
derives from the tin by which it is
closely surrounded, the flavour of baked
meat. The bottle-jack, with a common
roasting-screen containing shelves for
warming plates and dishes, and other
purposes, is not liable to the same ob-
jection. To roast well with it (or with
à smoke-jack), make up a fire propor-
tioned in width and height to the joint
which is to be roasted, and which it
should surpass in dimensions
every way,
by two or three inches. Place some
moderate-sized lumps of coal on the
top; let it be free from smoke and
Improved Spring Jack. ashes in front; and so compactly ar-
ranged that it will neither require to be disturbed, nor supplied with
fresh fuel, for some considerable time after the meat is laid down. Spit
or suspend the joint, and place it very far from the fire at first; keep it
constantly basted, and when it is two parts done, move it nearer to the
fire that it may be properly browned; but guard carefully against its
* The bottle-jack is wound up like a watch, by means of a key, and turns very
regularly until it has run down.

o O'O
o UoOo
O


CHAP. IX.]
171
BOILING, ROASTING, ETC.
being burned. A few minutes before it is taken from the spit, sprinkle
a little fine salt over it, baste it thoroughly with its own dripping,
or with butter, and dredge it with flour: as soon as the froth is well
risen, dish, and serve the meat. Or, to avoid the necessity of the froth-
ing which is often greatly objected to on account of the raw taste re-
tained by the flour, dredge the roast liberally soon after it is first laid
to the fire; the flour will then form a savoury incrustation upon it,
and assist to prevent the escape of its juices. When meat or poultry is
wrapped in buttered paper it must not be floured until this is removed,
which should be fifteen or twenty minutes before either is served.
Baron Liebeg, whom we have already so often quoted, says, that
roasting should be conducted on the same principle as boiling; and
that sufficient heat should be applied to the surface of the meat at
once, to contract the pores and prevent the escape of its juices; and
that the remainder of the process should be slow. When a joint is
first laid to the fire, therefore, it should be placed for twenty minutes
or half an hour sufficiently near to effect this, without any part, and
the fat especially, being allowed to acquire more than the slightest
colour, and then drawn back and finished by the directions at the end
of this section.
The speedy application very hot basting-fat to every part of the
meat, would probably be attended with the same result as subjecting
it to the full action of the fire. It is certain that roasts which are
constantly and carefully basted are always very superior to those
which are neglected in this respect.
Remember always to draw back the dripping-pan when the fire
has to be stirred, or when fresh coals are thrown on, that the cinders
and ashes may not fall into it.
When meat is very lean, a slice of butter, or a small quantity of
clarified dripping, should be melted in the pan to baste it with at first,
though the use of the latter should be scrupulously avoided for poul-
try, or any delicate meats, as the flavour it imparts is to many persons
peculiarly objectionable. Let the spit be kept bright and clean, and
wipe it before the meat is put on; balance the joint well upon it, that
it may turn steadily, and if needful secure it with screw-skewers. A
cradle spit, which is so constructed that it contains the meat in a sort
of framework, instead of passing through it, may be often very
advantageously used instead of an ordinary one, as the perforation of
the meat by this last must always occasion some escape of the juices;
and it is, moreover, particularly to be objected to in roasting joints or
poultry which have been boned and filled with forcemeat. The
cradle spit (for which see “Turkey Boned and Forced,” Chapter
XIV.) is much better suited to these, as well as to a sucking pig,
sturgeon, salmon, and other large fish; but it is not very commonly
to be found in our kitchens, many of which exhibit a singular scanti-
ness of the conveniences which assist the labours of the cook.
For heavy and substantial joints, a quarter of an hour is generally
allowed for every pound of meat; and with a sound fire and frequent


172
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. K.
basting, will be found sufficient when the process is conducted in the
usual manner; but by the slow method, as we shall designate it, almost
double the time will be required. Pork, veal, and lamb, should
always be well roasted; but many eaters prefer mutton and beef
rather under-dressed, though some persons have a strong objection to
the sight even of any meat that is not thoroughly cooked.
Joints which are thin in proportion to their weight, require less of
the fire than thick and solid ones. Ribs of beef, for example, will be
sooner ready to serve than an equal weight of the rump, round, or
sirloin ; and the neck or shoulder of mutton, or spare rib of pork,
than the leg.
When to preserve the succulence of the meat is more an object
tan to economise fuel, beef and mutton should be laid at twice the
usual distance from the fire, after the surface has been thoroughly
heated, as directed by Liebeg, and allowed to remain so until they
are perfectly heated through; the roasting, so managed, will of course
be slow; and from three hours and a half to four hours will be
necessary to cook by this method a leg of mutton of ordinary size,
for which two hours would amply suffice in a common way; but the
flesh will be remarkably tender, and the flow of gravy from it most
abundant. It should not be drawn near the fire until within the last
half or three quarters of an hour, and should then be placed only so
close as to brown it properly. No kind of roast indeed should at any
time be allowed to take colour too quickly; it should be heated gra-
dually, and kept at least at a moderate distance from the fire until it
is nearly done, or the outside will be dry and hard, if not burned
while the inside will be only half cooked.
STEAMING,
The application of steam to culinary pur
poses is becoming very general in our kitch-
ens at the present day, especially in those
of large establishments, many of which are
furnished with apparatus for its use, so
admirably constructed and so complete, that
the process may be conducted on an exten-
sive scale with very slight trouble to the
cook; and with the further advantage of
Saucepan with Steamer.
being at a distance from the fire, the steam
being conveyed by pipes to the vessels intended to receive it. Fish,
butcher's meat, poultry, vegetables, puddings, maccaroni, and rice,
are all subjected to its action, instead of being immersed in water, as
in simple boiling: and the result is to many persons perfectly satis-
factory; though, as there is a difference of opinion amongst first-rate
cooks, with regard to the comparative merits of the two modes of
dressing meat and fish, a trial should be given to the steaming on a
small scale, before any great expenses are incurred for it, which may


CHAP. ix.]
173
BOILING, ROASTING, ETC.
dos
be done easily with a common saucepan or boiler, fitted like the one
shown above, with a simple tin steamer. Servants not accustomed to
the use of these, should be warned against boiling in the vessel itself
any thing of coarse or strong flavour, when the article steamed is of
a delicate nature. The vapour from soup containing onions, for
example, would have a very bad effect on a sweet pudding, and on
many other dishes. Care and discretion, therefore, must be exercised
on this point. By means of a kettle fixed over it, the steam of the
boiler in the kitchen range may be made available for cooking, in the
way shown by the engraving, which exhi-
bits fish, potatoes, and their sauces, all in
progress of steaming at the same time. *
The limits of our work do not permit us
to enter at much length upon this subject,
but the reader who may wish to under-
stand the nature of steam, and the various
modes in which its agency may be applied
to domestic purposes, will do well to con-
sult Mr. Webster's excellent work,t of
which we have more particularly spoken
in another chapter. The quite inexperienced cook may require to be
told, that any article of food which is to be cooked by steam in a
saucepan of the form exhibited in the first of the engravings of this
section, must be prepared exactly as for boiling, and laid into the sort
of strainer affixed to the top of the saucepan; and that water, or some
other kind of liquid, must be put into the saucepan itself, and kept
boiling in it, the lid being first closely fixed into the steamer.
bes
ooonooooo
STEWING,
This very wholesome, convenient, and economical mode of cookery
is by no means so well understood nor profited by in England as on
the continent, where its advantages are fully appreciated. So very
small a quantity of fuel is necessary to sustain the gentle degree of
ebullition which it requires, that this alone would recommend it to
the careful housekeeper; but if the process be skilfully conducted,
meat softly stoved or stewed, in close-shutting, or luted | vessels, is
in every respect equal, if not superior, to that which is roasted ; but
it must be simmered only, and in the gentlest possible manner, or,
instead of being tender, nutritious, and highly palatable, it will be
dry, hard, and indigestible. The common cooking stoves in this
country, as they have hitherto been constructed, have rendered the
exact regulation of heat which stewing requires rather difficult; and
• Invented and sold by Mr. Evans, Fish-street Hill.
+ Encyclopædia of Domestic Economy. LONGMAN & Co.
Securely closed with a band of paste passed round the edges, and pressed
tightly over them. Tuo lute or luting used for chemical apparatus is of a kind
of clay.


174
[CHAP. IX.
MODERN COOKERY.
Hot Plate.
the smoke and blaze of a large coal fire are very unfavourable to
many other modes of cookery as
well. The French have generally
the advantage of the embers and
ashes of the wood which is their
ordinary fuel; and they have
always, in addition, a stove of this
construction, in which charcoal
or braise (for explanation of this
word, see remarks on preserving,
Chapter XXV.) only is burned;
and upon which their stewpans
can, when there is occasion, be
left uncovered, without the dan-
ger of their contents being spoiled, which there generally is with us.
It is true, that of late great improvements
have been made in our own stores ; and
the hot plates, or hearths with which the
kitchens of good houses are always fur-
nished, are admirably adapted to the sim-
mering system; but when the cook has not
the convenience of one, the stewpans must
be placed on trivets high above the fire, and be constantly watched,
and moved, as occasion may require, nearer to, or further from the
flame.
No copper vessels from which the inner tinning is in the slightest
degree worn away should be used ever for this or for any other kind
of cookery; or not health only, but life itself, may be endangered by
them.* We have ourselves seen a dish of acid fruit which had been
boiled without sugar in a copper pan from which the tin lining was
half worn away, coated with verdigris after it had become cold, and
from the careless habits of the person who had prepared it, the
chances were greatly in favour of its being served to a family after-
wards, if it had not been accidentally discovered. Salt acts upon the
copper in the same manner as acids : vegetables, too, from the portion
of the latter which they contain, have the same injurious effect, and
the greatest danger results from allowing preparations containing any
of these to become cold (or cool) in the stewpan, in contact with the
exposed part of the copper in the inside. Thick, well-tinned iron
saucepans will answer for all the ordinary purposes of common
English cookery, even for stewing, provided they have tightly-fitting
lids to prevent the escape of the steam; but the copper ones are of
more convenient forin, and better adapted to a superior order of
cookery
Sugar, being an antidote to the poisonous effects of verdigris, should be
plentifully taken, dissolved in water, so as to form a syrup, by persons who may
unfortunately have partaken of any dish into which this dangerous ingredient
Pretcred.


CHAP. ix.]
175
STEWING AND BROILING.
The enamelled stewpans and saucepans which have now very much
superseded the old-fashioned metal ones for many purposes, are
peculiarly suited, from the nicety of the composition with which they
are lined, and which resembles earthenware, to the preparation of
fine preserves, and all very delicate compounds, as well as to those of
milk, and of various articles of diet adapted to invalids; and they
possess the further advantage of being easily kept beautifully clean.
Care should be taken not to allow anything which they may contain
to burn to them, which it will quickly do if they be placed flat upon
a fierce fire; and when this has once occurred, there will always be
some difficulty in preventing their contents from adhering to them
where they have been burned. They should always be filled with
water immediately after being emptied, and will then merely require
to be well washed and rinsed with more boiling water ; but when
they have been neglected, strong soda and water should be boiled in
them for a few minutes.
BROILING.
Broiling is the best possible mode of cooking and of preserving the
flavour of several kinds of fish, amongst which we may specify
mackerel and whitings; it is also
incomparably superior to frying for
steaks and cutlets, especially of
beef and mutton; and it is far better
adapted also, to the preparation of
food for invalids; but it should be
carefully done, for if the heat be
too fierce, the outside of the meat
will be scorched and hardened so as
to render it uneatable ; and if, on
the contrary, it be too gentle, the
A Conjuror.
gravy will be drawn out, and yet the flesh will remain so entirely
without firmness, as to be unpleasant eating. A brisk fire, perfectly
free from smoke, a very clean gridiron, tender meat, a dish and plates
as hot as they can be, and great despatch in sending it to table when
done, all are essential to the serving of a good broil. The gridiron
should be heated, and rubbed with mutton suet before the meat is
laid on, and it should be placed slopingly over the fire, that the fat
may run off to the back of the grate, instead of falling on the live
coals and smoking the meat: if this precaution should not prevent its
making an occasional blaze, lift the gridiron quickly beyond the
reach of the smoke, and hold it away until the fire is clear again.
Steaks and chops should be turned often, that the juices may be kept
in, and that they may be equally done in every part. If, for this
purpose, it should be necessary for want of steak-tongs to use a fork,
it should be passed through the outer skin or fat of the steak, but
never stuck into the lean, as by that means much of the gravy will


176
[CTI AP. IX.
MODERN COOKERY.
escape. Most eaters prefer broiled beef or mutton, rather under.
dressed; but lamb or pork cutlets should always be thoroughly
cooked. When a fowl or any other bird is cut asunder before it is
broiled, the inside should first be laid to the fire : this should be
done with kidneys also. Fish is less dry and of better flavour, as
well as less liable to be smoked, if it be wrapped in a thickly buttered
sheet of writing paper before it is placed on the gridiron. For the
more delicate-skinned kinds, the bars should be rubbed with chalk
instead of suet when the paper is omitted. Cutlets, or meats of any
other form, when egged and crumbed for broiling, should afterwards
be dipped into claritied butter or sprinkled with it plentifully, as the
egg-yolk and bread will otherwise form too dry a crust upon it.
French cooks season their cutlets both with salt and pepper, and
brush a little oil or butter over them to keep them moist; but unless
this be done, no seasoning of salt should be given them until they are
just ready to be dished : the French method is a very good one.
Steaks or cutlets may be quickly cooked with a sheet or two of
lighted paper only, in the apparatus shown in the preceding page,
and called a conjuror. Lift off the cover and lay in the meat
properly seasoned, with a small slice of butter under it, and insert
the lighted paper in the aperture shown in the plate; in from eight
to ten minutes the meat will be done, and found to be remarkably
tender, and very palatable: it must be turned and moved occa-
sionally during the process. This is an especially convenient mode
of cooking for persons whose hours of dining are rendered uncertain
by the nature of their avocations. For medical men engaged in
extensive country practice it has often proved so; and we would
especially recommend it to the notice of emigrants, to whom it would
often prove invaluable. The part in which the meat is placed is of
block tin, and fits closely into the stand, which is of sheet iron.
The conjuror from which our design was drawn, was purchased in
a country town in Essex, and was exceedingly well made, and very
cheap. We find on inquiry that the maker has quitted the place, or
we would insert his address.
FRYING.
Sauté Pan.,
This is an operation, which, though appa-
rently very simple, requires to be more care-
fully and skilfully conducted than it commonly
is. Its success depends principally on allowing
the fat to attain the exact degree of heat
which shall give firmness, without too quick
browning or scorching, before anything is laid into the pan ; for, if
this be neglected, the article fried will be saturated with fat, and
remain pale and flaccid. When the requisite degree of colour is
acquired before the cooking is complete, the pan should be placed
high above the fire, that it may be continued slowly to the proper


CHAP. IX.] BOILING, ROASTING, &c.
177
point. Steaks and cutlets should be seasoned with salt and pepper,
and dredged on both sides lightly with flour before they are laid intó
the pan, in which they should be often moved and turned that they
may be equally done, and that they may not stick nor burn to it.
From ten to fifteen minutes will fry them. They should be evenly
sliced, about the same thickness as for broiling, and neatly trimmed
and divided in the first instance. Lift them into a hot dish when
done; pour the fat from the pan, and throw in a small slice of butter;
stir to this a large teaspoonful of flour, brown it gently, and pour in
by degrees a quarter of a pint of hot broth or water ; shake the
pan well round, add pepper, salt, and a little good catsup, or any
other store sauce which may be preferred to it, and pour the gravy
over the steaks : this is the most common mode of saucing and
serving them.
Minute directions for fish, vegetables, omlets, and different pre-
parations of batter, are given in their proper places; but we must
again observe, that a very small frying pan (scarcely larger than a
dinner-plate) is necessary for many of these ; and, indeed, the large
and thick oné suited to meat and fish, and used commonly for them is
altogether unfit for nicer
purposes.
The té-pan, shown in the preceding page, is much used by
French cooks instead of a frying-pan; it is more particularly cen-
venient for tossing quickly over the fire small collops, or aught else
which requires but little cooking.
All fried dishes, which are not sauced, should be served extremely
dry upon a neatly-folded damask cloth : they are best drained upon
a sieve reversed placed before the fire.
A wire basket of this form is convenient for frying parsley and
other herbs. It must be placed in
9 pan well filled with fat, and lifted
out quickly when the herbs are done:
they may likewise be crisped in it
over a clear fire, without any fat.
The frying-pans fitted with wire
Wire Pasket for Frying.
linings that lift in and out of them,
which have lately come much into use in good kitchens, are so excel-
iently adapted to save trouble, and so convenient for preparing de-
licately light patties, croquettes, rissoles, and other dishes of a similar
nature, that no cook who is expected to serve them in the best
manner should be without one. I'hey should all be arranged upon
this wire lining, and plunged together into the boiling fat; and well
drained on it when they are lifted out.
Wire Lining of frying-par.
Modern Sauté Pan.
N


178
[CHAP. IX
MODERN COOKERY.
BAKING, OR OVEN COOKERY.
The improved construction of the
ovens connected with all modern
cooking stoves, gives great facility at
the present day for home baking, even
in very smalſ establishments; and
without this convenience it is impos-
sible for justice to be done to the
person who conducts the cookery; as
Nottingham Jar.
many and great disadvantages attend the
sending to a public oven; and it is very discouraging to a servant who
has prepared her dishes with nicety and skill, to have them injured
by the negligence of other persons. One of the best modes of
cooking with which we are acquainted is by means of a jar, resem-
bling in form that shown above, well pasted down, and covered with
a fold of thick paper, and then placed in a gentle oven. Rice is
most excellent when thus slowly baked with a certain proportion of
liquid, either by itself, or mingled with meat, fish, or fruit; but we
must reserve for another volume particulars of this little system of
slow oven-cookery, in which for some years past we have had num-
berless experiments made with almost uniform success : it is espe-
cially suited to invalids, from preserving the entire amount of
nourishment contained in the articles of food dressed by it; and it is
to their use that we hope to appropriate it.
The oven may be used with advantage for many purposes for
which it is not commonly put into requisition. Calves' feet, covered
with a proper proportion of water, may be reduced to a strong jelly
if left in it for some hours; the half-head, boned and rolled, will be
found excellent eating, if laid, with
the bones, into a deep pan and baked
quite tender in sufficient broth or
water, to keep it covered in every part
until done ; good soup also may be
made in the same way, the usual in-
gredients being at once added to the
meat, with the exception of the vege-
tables, which will not become tender
if put into cold liquid, and should
therefore be thrown in after it begins
to simmer. Baking is likewise one of
• We have scarcely done justice in the former editions of this work to these
very useful little ovens, which we have found, after long trial, better adapted to
some purposes than brick or iron ones, because preparations which require it,
(those of Indian corn, for example) can be heated in them more gradually; and
when once the management of them is understood, they will answer admirably
for delicate sweet puddings, and for cakes, with the advantage of requiring but &
very moderate fire.

American Oven,


CHAP IX.]
179
BOILING, ROASTING, &c.
the best modes of dressing various kinds of fish: pike and red mullet
amongst others. Salmon cut into thick slices, freed from the skin,
well seasoned with spice, mixed with salt (and with minced herbs, at
pleasure), then arranged evenly in a dish, and covered thickly with
crumbs of bread, moistened with clarified butter, as directed in
Chapter II., for baked soles, and placed in the oven for about half an
hour, will be found very rich and highly flavoured. Part of the
middle of the salmon left entire, well cleaned, and thoroughly
dried, then seasoned, and securely wrapped in two or three folds
of thickly buttered paper, will also prove excellent eating, if
gently baked. (This may likewise be roasted in a Dutch oven,
either folded in the paper, or left without it, and basted with
butter.)
Hams, when freshly cured, and not over salted, if neatly trimmed,
and covered with a coarse paste, are both more juicy, and of finer
flavour baked than boiled. Savoury or pickled beef too, put into a
deep pan with a little gravy, and plenty of butter or chopped suet
on the top, to preveut the outside from becoming dry; then covered
with paste, or with several folds of thick paper, and set into a
moderate oven for four or five hours, or even longer, if it be of
large weight, is an excellent dish. A goose, a leg of pork, and a
sucking pig, if properly attended to while in the oven, are said to be
nearly, or quite as good as if roasted; but baking is both an un-
palatable and an unprofitable mode of cooking joints of meat in
general, though its great convenience to many persons who have but
few other facilities for obtaining the luxury of a hot dinner renders
it a very common one.
It is usual to raise meat from the dish in which it is sent to the
oven by placing it, properly skewered, on a stand, so as to allow
potatoes or a batter pudding to be baked under it. A few button
onions, freed from the outer skin, or three or four large ones, cut in
halves, are sometimes put beneath a shoulder of mutton. Two
sheets of paper spread separately with a thick layer of butter, cla-
rified marrow, or any other fat, and fastened securely over the out-
side of a joint, will prevent its being too much dried by the fierce
heat of the oven. A few spoonsful of water or gravy should be
poured into the dish with potatoes, and a little salt sprinkled over
them.
A celebrated French cook recommends braising in the oven ; that is
to say, after the meat has been arranged in the usual manner, and
just brought to boil over the fire, that the braising pan, closely
stopped, should be put into a moderate oven, for the same length
of time as would be required to stew the meat perfectly
tender.


180
[CHAP. Is
MODERN COOKERY.
BRAIŞIXO.
Braising is but a more expensive mode of stewing meat. The
following French recipe will explain the process. We would
observe, however, that the layers of beef or veal, in which the
joint to be braised is imbedded, can
afterwards be converted into excellent
soup, gravy, or glaze; and that there
need, in consequence, be no waste nor
any unreasonable degree of expense at-
tending it; but it is a troublesome pro-
cess, and quite as good a result may be
obtained by simmering the meat in very
English brasing-jan. strong gravy.
Should the flavour of
the bacon be considered an advantage, slices of it can be laid over
the article braised, and secured to it with a fillet of tape.
“ To braise the inside (or small fillet, as it is called in France) of a
sirluin of beef: Raise the fillet clean from the joint; and with a
sharp knife strip off all the skin, leaving the surface of the meat
as smooth as possible ; have ready some strips of unsmoked bacon,
half as thick as your little finger, roll them in a mixture of thyme
finely minced, spices in powder, and a little pepper and salt. Lard
the fillet quite through with these, and tie it round with tape in any
shape you choose. Line the bottom of a stew pan (or braising-pan)
with slices of bacon; next put in a layer of beef or veal, four onions,
two bay-leaves, two carrots, and a bunch of sweet herbs, and place
the fillet on them. Cover it with slices of bacon, put some trim-
mings of meat all round it, and pour on to it half a pint of good beef
broth or gravy. Let it stew as gently as possible for two hours and
a half; take it up, and keep it very hot; strain, and reduce the
gravy by quick boiling until it is thick enough to glaze with ; brush
the meat over with it ; put the rest in the dish with the fillet, after
the tape has been removed from it, and send it directly to table."
Equal parts of Madeira and gravy are sometimes used to moisten
the meat.
No attempt should be made to braise a joint in any vessel that is
net very nearly of its own size
A round of buttered paper is generally put over the more delicate
kinds of braised meat, to prevent their being browned by the fire,
which in France is sometimes pui round the lid of the braising-pan,
in a groove made on purpose to contain it. The embers of a wood
fire mixed with the hot ashes, are best adapted to sustain the regular
Lut gentle degree of heat required for this mode of cooking.


CHAP. ix.]
181
BOILING, ROASTING, &c.
Braising pans are of various forms. They are often shaped like a
liam-kettle, and sometimes like the design
at the commencement of this section; but
a stewpan of modern form, or any other
vessel which will admit of embers being
placed upon the lid, will answer for the
purpose as well.
Common cooks sometimes stew meat
in a mixture of butter and water, and call Copper Stefan
it braising
LARDING.
Larding Pins.
Cut into slices, of the same length and thickness, some bacon of the
finest quality; trim away the outsides, place the slices evenly upon
each other, and with a sharp knife divide them obliquely into small
strips of equal size. For pheasants, partridges, hares, fowls, and
fricandeaur, the bacon should be about the eighth of an inch
square, and two inches in length ; but for meat which is to be larded
quite through, instead of on the outside merely, the bits of bacon
(properly called lardoons) must be at least the third of an inch
square.
In general, the breasts only of birds are larded, the backs and
thighs of hares, and the whole of the upper surface of a fricandeau :
these should be thickly covered with small lardoons, placed at re-
gular intervals, and in lines which intersect each other, so as to form
rather minute diamonds.
The following directions for larding a pheasant will serve equally
for poultry, or for other kinds of game :-
Secure one end of the bacon in a slight larding-needle, and on
the point of this take up sufficient of the flesh of the bird to hold
the lardoon firmly; draw the needle through it, and part of the
bacon, of which the two ends should be left of equal length. Pro-
ceed thus, until the breast of the pheasant is entirely garnished with
lardoons, when it ought to resemble in appearance à cake thickly
stuck with strips of almonds.
The larger strips of bacon, after being rolled in a high seasoning
of minced herbs and spices, are used to lard the inside of meat, and
they should be proportioned to its thickness, as they must be passed
quite through it. For example: a four-inch slice from a rump of
beef will require lardoons of very nearly that length, which must be
* The line which passes round this stewpan just above the handle, is a mistake
of the designer, and conveys an erroneous idea of the form of the cover, and it
ought to have been omitted.


182
MODERN COOKERY.
LCHAP. IX.
drawn through with a large larding-pin, and left in it, with the ends
just out of sight on either side.
In France, truffles, anchovies, slices of tongue, and of fat, all
trimmed into proper shape, are occasionally used for larding. The
bacon employed there for the purpose is cured without any salt petre
(as this would redden the white meats), and it is never smoked: the
receipt for it will be found in Chapter XIII.
A turkey is sometimes larded with alternate lardoons of fat bacon
and of bullock's tongue, which has been pickled but not dried : we
apprehend that the lean of a half-boiled ham, of good colour, would
answer the purpose quite as well, or better
Larding the surface of meat, poultry, or game, gives it a good
appearance, but it is a more positive improvement to meat of a dry
nature to interlard the inside with large lardoons of well-seasoned,
delicate, striped English bacon.
BONING,
Very minute directions being given in other parts of our volume
for this, we confine ourselves here to the following rules :-in disen-
gaging the flesh from it, work the knife always close to the bone, and
take every care not to pierce the outer skin.
TO BLANCH MEAT OR VEGETABLES.
This is merely to throw either into a pan of boiling water for a
few minutes, which gives firmness to the first, and is necessary for
some modes of preparing vegetables.
The breast only of a bird is sometimes held in the water while
it boils, to render it firm for larding. To preserve the whiteness of
meat, and the bright green of vegetables, they are lifted from the
water after they have boiled a few minutes, and are thrown imme-
diately into spring water, and left till cold.
5 to 10 minutes.
GLAZING.
This process we have explained at the
article Glaze, Chapter IV. The surface
of the meat should be covered evenly,
with two or three separate layers of the
glaze, which, if properly made, soon be-
comes firm. A ham should be well dried
in the oven before it is laid on. Cutlets
of all kinds may be glazed before they
are sent to table, with very good effect.
The figure above represents a glaze-pot
and brush, used for heating and applying


CHAP. IX.] BOILING, ROASTING, &c.
183
the preparation : a jar placed in a pan of boiling water may be sub-
stituted for the first, when it is not at hand.
TOASTING,
of
A very cheap apparatus, by which chops can be dressed before a
clear fire, is shown by the first of these figures; and the second is
peculiarly convenient when bread or muffins are required to be
toasted expeditiously and in large quantities, without much time and
attention being bestowed upon them.
TO BROWN THE SURFACE OF A DISH WITHOUT BAKING OR
PLACING IT AT THE FIRE.
This is done with a salamander, as it is called, formed like the en-
graving below; it is heated in the fire, and held over the dish suf.
ficiently near to give it colour. It is very much used in a superior
order of cookery. A kitchen shovel is sometimes substituted for it
on an emergency.


184
[CRAP. .
MODERN COOKERY.
CHAPTER X.
Beef.

10
No.
1. Sirloin,
2. Rump.
3. Edge-bone.
4. Buttock, or Round.
b. Mouse Buttock.
6. Veiny Piece.
7. Thick Flank.
8. Thin Flank.
9. Leg.
10. Fore Rib. (Five Ribs.)
No.
11. Middle Rib. (Four Ribs.)
12. Chuck Rib. (Three Ribe.)
13. Shoulder, or Leg of Mutton
Piece.
14. Brisket.
15. Clod.
16. Neck.
17. Shir.
18. Cheek,
TO CHOOSE BEEF.
mer.
Beef is in reality in season through the entire year, but it is best during the
winter months, when it will hang a sufficient time to become tender before it is
dressed. Meat of a more delicate nature is better adapted for the table in sum-
The Christmas beef of England is too much celebrated to require any
mention here.
If young and freshly killed, the lean of ox-beef will be smoothly
grained, and of a fine, healthy, carnation-red, the fat rather white
an yellow, and the suct white and firm. Heifer-beef is more


CHAP, x.]
185
BEEF.
closely grained, and rather less bright of colour, the bones are con-
siderably smaller, and the fat of a purer white.
Of bull-beef we only speak to warn our readers that it is of all
meat the coarsest and the most rank in flavour. It may be known
by its dark hue, its close tough fibre, and the scanty proportion, bad
appearance, and strong odour of its fat.
In choice and well-fed beef, the lean will be found intergrained
with fat : very lean meat is generally of an inferior quality:
The ribs, the sirloin, and the rump, are the proper joints for
roasting. The round, or buttock, the edgebone, the second round, or
mouse-buttock, the shin, the brisket, the shoulder or leg of mutton
piece, and the clod, may be boiled or stewed. The neck is generally
used for soup or gravy; and the thin flank for collaring. The best
steaks are cut from the middle of the rump; the next best from the
veiny piece, or from the chuck-rib. The inside of the sirloin, com-
monly used for the purpose in France, makes by far the most delicate
steaks; but though exceedingly tender, they are considered by some
English epicures to be wanting in favour.
The finest part of the sirloin is the chump-end, which contains the
larger portion of the fillet; of the ribs, the middle ones are those
generally preferred by experienced housekeepers.
TO ROAST SIRLOIN, OR RIBS OF BEEF.
Let the joint hang as long as it can possibly be kept perfectly
sweet. When it is first brought in, remove the pipe of marrow which
runs along the backbone; and cut out the kernels from the fat. Be
very careful in summer to guard it from flies; examine it fre-
quently in warm or damp weather; and scrape off with a knife, or
wipe away with a dry cloth, any moisture which may appear on the
surface: when this has been done, dust some powdered ginger or
pepper over it. Unless the joint should be very large, its appearance
will be improved by taking off the ends of the bones, which may
then
be salted for a few days, and afterwards boiled. Spit the beef firmly;
place it near the fire to render the surface firm, as directed in the
article Roasting, of Chapter IX. ; then draw it to a distance and let
it remain so until the heat has well penetrated the interior ; and, if
from prejudice the old method be still preferred, heat it very gra-
dually in the first instance (in either case baste it constantly), and let
it be drawn nearer to the fire for the last half hour or more of
roasting, merely to brown it well. Persons who object to meat being
frothed for table, have it dredged with flour when it is first placed a.
the re, and sprinkled with fine salt when it is nearly done. It is
not necessary to paper the fat of beef, as many cooks direct, if proper
attention be given to it while roasting.
As a general rule, it may be observed, that when the steam from


186
[CHAP. L.
MODERN COOKERY.
the meat draws strongly towards the fire, it is nearly or quite ready
to serve. The time required to roast it will depend on the state
of the weather,* the size and strength of the fire, the thickness
of the joint, the use or non-use of a meat-screen or reflector, the
general temperature of the kitchen, and other contingencies. A
quarter of an hour for each pound of meat is commonly allowed for
solid, heavy joints, and, if the directions we have given be attended
to, this will not be found too much even for persons who prefer beef
somewhat rere : it must be left longer at the fire if wished very
thoroughly roasted, and quite double the usual time when the plan
we have noticed at page 172, is adopted. When likely to be sent to
table hashed, minced, or dressed a second time in any way, the juices
of the meat should be dried up as little as possible when it is first
cooked.
ROAST RUMP OF BEEF.
As this joint is generally too much to serve whole, as much of it
as will form a handsome dish should be cut from the chump end to
roast. It must be managed as the sirloin, to which it is commonly
preferred by connoisseurs. When boned and rolled into the form of
a fillet of veal, as it sometimes is, nearly or quite an additional hour
should be allowed to dress it.
TO ROAST PART OF A ROUND OF BEEF.
The natural division of the meat will show where the silver side
of the round is to be separated from the upper or tongue side, which
is the proper part for roasting, and which will be found equally good
and profitable for the purpose, if allowed to hang as long as it can be
kept sweet before it is dressed. Care should be taken in dividing the
meat, not to pierce the inner skin. The silver side, with the udder,
if there should be one to the joint, may be pickled, spiced, or simply
salted, and will be excellent either way. The outside fat should be
drawn tightly round the remainder of the beef, which must be
firmly skewered, or bound with tape, to keep it in form. It will
require long roasting at a strong, steady fire, and should be kept
constantly basted.
Beef, 14 lbs.: 41 to 5 hours.
Obs. We think that larding the beef quite through with large
lardoons of firm fat, of udder, or of bacon, would be an improve-
ment; and we ought also to observe, that unless it be delicate and of
fine quality, it will not answer well for roasting.
• The meat will be much sooner done in hot weather than in cold. If frozen,
it must be thawed very gradually before it is put to the fire, or no length of time
will roast it; this will be effected better by laying it into cold water for some
hours before it is wanted, than by any other means.


CHAP X.]
187
BEEF.
TO ROAST A FILLET OF BEEF.
Raise the fillet from the inside of the sirloin, or from part of it,
with a sharp knife ; leave the fat on, trim off the skin, lard it
through, or all over, or roast it quite plain ; baste it with butter, and
send it very hot to table, with tomata sauce, or sauce piquante, or
eschalot sauce, in a tureen. It is sometimes served with brown
gravy and currant jelly; it should then be garnished with force-
meat-balls, made as for hare. If not very large, an hour and a
quarter will roast it well with a brisk fire.
Obs.—The remainder of the joint may be boned, rolled, and
roasted, or braised; or made into meat cakes; or served as a
miniature round of beef.
11 hour.
ROAST BEEP STEAK.
If extremely tender, a large slice from the middle of the rump will
make an excellent small dish of roast meat, when a joint is not easily
to be procured. Let it be smoothly cut, from an inch to an inch and
a half thick, flattened on a table, and the inside sprinkled with a little
fine salt and cayenne, or common pepper. Make a roll of forcemeat.
as No. 1, Chapter VIII., adding, at pleasure, a flavouring of minced
onion or eschalot, and increasing the quantity of spices; place this
on one end of the steak, and roll it up tightly in it; skewer and bind
the meat so that the forcemeat cannot escape; fasten a buttered paper
over it, and roast it an hour and a half, or more, according to its size.
Twenty minutes before it is served, take off the paper and flour the
meat, which should be kept well basted with butter all the time it is
roasting: Send brown gravy to table with it, and pour a little over
the beef.
13 hour, or more.
TO BROIL BEEF STEAKS.
The steaks should be from half to three quarters of an inch thick,
equally sliced, and freshly cut from the middle of a well kept, finely
grained, and tender rump of beef. They should be neatly trimmed,
and once or twice divided, if very largo. The fire, as we have already
said in the general directions for broiling (page 175), must be strong
and clear. The bars of the gridiron should be thin, and not very
close together. When they are thoroughly heated, without being
fufficiently burning to scorch the meat, wipe and rub them with fresh
mutton suet; next pepper the steaks slightly, but never season them
with salt before they are dressed ; lay them on the gridiron, and
when done on one side, turn them on the other, being careful to
catch, in the dish in which they are to be sent to table, any gravy


188
[Char. X
MODERN COOKERY
room sauce.
which may threaten to drain from them when they are moved. Let
them be served the instant they are taken from the fire; and have
ready at the moment, dish, cover, and plates, as hot as they can be.
From eight to ten minutes will be sufficient to broil steaks for the
generality of eaters, and more than enough for those who like them
but partially done.
Genuine amateurs seldom take prepared sauce or gravy with their
steaks, as they consider the natural juices of the meat sufficient.
When any accompaniment to them is desired, a small quantity of
choice mushroom catsup may be warmed in the dish that is heated to
receive them; and which, when the not very refined flavour of a raw
eschalot is liked, as it is by some eaters, may previously be rubbed
with one, of which the large end has been cut off. A thin slice or
two of fresh butter is sometimes laid under the steaks, where it soon
melts and mingles with the gravy which flows from them. The
appropriate tureen sauces for broiled beef steaks are onion, tomata,
oyster, eschalot, hot horseradish, and brown cucumber, or mush-
Obs. 1. — We have departed a little in this receipt from our pre-
vious instructions for broiling, by recommending that the steaks
should be turned but once, instead of “often," as all grcat autho-
rities on the subject direct. By trying each method, our readers will
be able to decide for themselyes upon the preferable one : we can
only say, that we have never eaten steaks so excellent as th Joe wuich
have been dressed exactly in accordance with the receipt we have just
given, and we have taken infinite pains to ascertain the really best
mode of preparing this very favourite English dish, which so con-
stantly makes its appearance both carelessly cooked and ill served,
especially at private tables.
Obs. 1.- It is a good plan to throw a few bits of charcoal on the
fire some minutes before the steaks are laid down, as they give forth
a strong heat without any smoke: a coke fire is also advantageous for
broiling them.
The upright gridirons, by which meat is rather toasted than
broiled, though used in many kitchens, and generally pronounced ex.
ceedingly convenient where they have been tried, do not appear to
us so well adapted for dressing steaks as those of less modern fashion,
which are placed over, instead of before the fire.
BEEF STEAKS À LA FRANÇAISE.
The inside of the sirloin freed from skin and cut evenly into round
quarter-inch slices, should properly be used for these ; but when it
cannot be obtained, part of the rump must be substituted for it.
Season the steaks with fine salt and pepper, brush them with a little
clarified butter, and broil them over a clear brisk fire. Mix a tea-
spoonful of parsley minced extremely fine, with a large slice of fresh
1* 1. a little cayenne, and a small quantity of salt. When the


CHAP. X.]
189
BEEF.
steaks are done, put the mixture into the dish intended for them, lay
them upon it, and garnish them plentifully with fried potatoes. It is
an improvement to squeeze the juice of half a lemon on the butter
before the meat is heaped over it. The potatoes should be sliced
rather thin, coloured of a fine brown, and placed evenly round the
meat.
BEEF STEAKS À LA FRANÇAISE (ENTRÉE).
(Another Receipt.)
Cut the beef into small thin steaks as above, season them with fine
salt and pepper, dredge them lightly with flour, and fry them in
butter over a brisk fire; arrange them in a chain round a very hot
dish, and pour into the centre the olive sauce of Chapter V.
STEWED BEEF STEAK (ENTRÉE).
This may be cut from one to two inches thick, and the time of
stewing it must be proportioned to its size. Dissolve a slice of butter
in a large saucepan or stew pan, and brown the steak on both sides,
moving it often that it may not burn; then shake in a little flour,
and when it is coloured pour in by degrees rather more than suf-
ficient broth or water to cover the meat. When it boils, season it with
salt, take off the scum, slice in one onion, a carrot or two, and
half a turnip; add a small bunch of sweet herbs, and stew the steak
very softly from two hours and a half to three hours. A quarter of
an hour before it is served, stir well into the gravy three teaspoonsful
of rice flour smoothly mixed with a little cayenne, half a wine-
glassful of mushroom catsup, and a slight seasoning of spice. A
teaspoonful of currie powder, in addition, will improve both the
flavour and the appearance of the sauce. The onion is sometimes
browned with the meat; and the quantity is considerably increased.
Eschalots may be used instead, where their strong flavour is ap-
proved. A few button-mushrooms, stewed from twenty to thirty
minutes with the meat, will render the catsup unnecessary. Wine,
or any favourite store sauce, can be added at will,
2, to 3 hours.
FRIED BEEF STEAK.
We have little to add here to the directions of Chapter IX., which
are sufficient to enable the cook to send a dish of fried steaks to table
properly dressed. Currie sauce, highly onioned, is frequently served
with them.
BEEF STEAK STEWED IN ITS OWN GRAVY.
(Good and wholesome.)
Trim all the fat and skin from a rump steak of nearly an inch
hick, and divide it once or twice ; just dip it into cold water, let it


190
[CHAP. X.
MODERN COOKERY.
drain for an instant, sprinkle it on both sides with pepper, and then
flour it rather thickly; lay it quite flat into a well-tinned iron sauce-
pan or stewpan, which has been rinsed with cold water, of which
three or four tablespoonsful should be left in it. Place it over (not
upon) a very gentle fire, and keep it just simmering from an hour
and a half to an hour and three quarters, when, if the meat be good,
it will have become perfectly tender. Add salt to it when it first
begins to boil, and turn it when rather more than half done. A
couple of spoonsful of gravy, half as much catsup, and a slight sea-
soning of spice, would, to many tastes, improve this dish, of which,
however, the great recommendation is its wholesome simplicity,
which renders it suitable to the most delicate stomach. A thick
mutton cutlet from the middle of the leg is excellent dressed thus.
1} to 17 hour.
BEEF OR MUTTON CAKE.
(Very good.)
Chop two pounds of lean and very tender beef or mutton, with
three quarters of a pound of beef suet; mix them well, and season
them with a dessertspoonful of salt, nearly as much pounded clores,
a teaspoonful of pounded mace, and half a teaspoonful of cayenne.
Line a round baking dish with thin slices of fat bacon, press the meat
closely into it, smooth the top, and cover it with bacon, set a plate
on it with a weight, and bake it two hours and a quarter. Take off
the bacon, and serve the meat hot, with a little rich brown gravy, or
set it by until cold, when it will be equally good. The fat of the
meat which is used for this dish can be chopped up with it instead of
suet, where it is liked as well; and onion, or eschalot, shred fine,
minced savoury herbs, grated lemon-peel, rasped bacon, or mush-
rooms cut small, may in turn be added to vary it in flavour.
Lean beef or mutton, 2 lbs. ; suet, { lb.; salt and cloves in powder,
each a dessertspoonful; mace, 1 teaspoonful; half as much cayenne
baked 21 hours.
Obs.-A larger portion of suet or of fat will render these cakes
lighter, but will not otherwise improve them : they may be made of
veal or of venison, but one-third of mutton suet or of fat bacon
should be mixed with this last.
GERMAN STEW.
Cut into about three-inch squares, two pounds and a half of the
leaner part of the veiny piece of beef, or of any joint which is likely
to be tender, and set it on to stew, with rather less than a quart
of cold broth or water, and one large onion sliced. When these
begin to boil, add a teaspoonful of salt, and a third as much of pepper,
and let them simmer gently for an hour and a half. Have ready
some young white cabbages, parboiled ; press the water well from
them, lay them in with the beef, and let the whole stew for another
1


CHAP. X.]
191
BEEF.
hour. More onions, and a seasoning of mixed spices, or a few bits of
lean bacon, or of ham, can be added to this stew when a higher
flavour is desired; but it is very good without.
Beef, 24 lbs.; water, or broth, 14 pint; onion, 1; salt, 1 teaspoon-
ful; third as much pepper : 11 hour. Parboiled cabbages, 3 or 4:
1 hour.
WELSH STEW.
Take the same proportions of beef, and of broth or water, as for
the German Stew. When they have simmered gently for an hour,
add the white part of from twenty to thirty leeks, or two dozens of
button onions, and five or six young mild turnips, cut in slices, &
small lump of white sugar, nearly half a teaspoonful of white pepper
and more than twice as much salt. Stew the whole softly from ar
hour and a quarter to an hour and a half, after the vegetables are
added.
Beef and water as above: 1 hour. Leeks, 20 to 30: or small
onions, 24; young turnips, 6; small lump of sugar; white pepper,
nearly 1 teaspoonful; salt, twice as much : 14 to 14 hour.
A GOOD ENGLISH STEW.
On three pounds of tender rump of beef, freed from skin and fat,
and cut down into about two-inch squares, pour rather more than a
quart of cold broth or gravy. When it boils add salt if required,
and a little cayenne, and keep it just simmering for a couple of
hours; then put to it the grated rind of a large lemon, or of two
small ones, and half an hour after, stir to it a tablespoonful of rice-
flour, smoothly mixed with a wineglassful of mushroom catsup, a
dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, and a teaspoonful of soy: in fifteen
minutes it will be ready to serve. A glass and a half of port, or of
white wine, will greatly improve this stew, which may likewise be
flavoured with the store-sauce of page 146, or with another, which
we find excellent for the purpose, made with half a pint of port
wine, the same of mushroom-catsup, a quarter pint of walnut pickle,
a tablespoonful of the best soy, and a dessertspoonful of cayenne-
vinegar, all well shaken together and poured into a bottle containing
the thin rind of a lemon and two fine mellow anchovies, of moderate
size. A few delicately fried forcemeat-balls may be slipped into it
after it is dished.
Obs.-The limits of our work will not permit us to deyote a
further space to this class of dishes, but an intelligent cook will find
it easy to vary them in numberless ways. Mushrooms, celery,
carrots, sweet herbs, parboiled new potatoes, green peas, rice, and
currie-powder may be advantageously used for that purpose. Ox-
tails, just blanched and cut into joints, will be found excellent sub-
stitutes for the beef : mutton and veal also may be dressed in the
same way. The meat and vegetables can be browned before broth


192
CHAP, X.
MODERN COOKERY.
or water is poured to them; but though, perhaps, more savoury,
the stew will then be much less delicate. Each kind of vegetable
should be allowed something more than sufficient time to render it
perfectly tender, but not so much as would reduce it to pulp.
TO STEW SHIN OF BEEF.
Wash, and set it on to stew in sufficient cold water to keep it just
covered until it is done. When it boils, take off the scum and put
an ounce and a quarter of salt to the gallon of water. It is usual to
add a few cloves and some black pepper, slightly bruised and tied up
loosely in a fold of muslin, two or more onions, a root of celery, a
bunch of savoury herbs, four or five carrots, and as many turnips,
either whole or sliced : if to be served with the meat, the two last
will require a little more than the ordinary time of boiling, but
otherwise they may be simmered with the meat from the beginning.
Give the beef from four to five hours' gentle stewing; and serve it
with part of its own liquor thickened and favoured, or quite plain.
An excellent dish for a family may be made by stewing the thick
fleshy part of the shin or leg, in stock made of the knuckle, with a
few bits of lean ham, or a slice of hung beef from which the smoked
edges have been carefully pared away, and some spice, salt, and vege-
tables : by frying these last before they are thrown into the soup-
pot the savour of the stew will be greatly heightened ; and a tureen
jf good soup may be made of its remains, after it has been served at
table.
Ox-cheek, after having been soaked for four or five hours, and
washed with great nicety, may be dressed like the shin; but as it has
little flavour, the gravy should be strained, and quite cleared from
fat, then put into a clean saucepan, and thickened as soon as it boils,
with the following mixture :- three dessertspoonsful of rice-flour,
nearly a wineglassful of catsup, a teaspoonsful of currie-powder, or
little powdered ginger and cayenne.
When these have stewed
ten minutes, dish the head, pour the sauce over, and serve it.
Shin of beef, 4 to 5 hours. Ox-cheek, 2 to 3 hours.
FRENCH BEEF A LA MODE.
(A common Receipt.)
Take seven or eight pounds of a rump of beef (or of any (ther
tender joint), free from bone, and skewer it firmly into a good soape.
Put two ounces of butter into a thick saucepan or stewpan, and when
it boils stir to it a tablespoonful of flour ; keep these well shaken
over a gentle fire until they are of a fine amber colour ; then lay in
the beef, and brown it on both sides, taking care that it shall not
stick to the pan. Pour to it by slow degrees, letting each portiou
before the next is added or the butter will float upon the sur-
l be difficult to clear off afterwards, three quarters of a pint


CHAP. X.]
193
BEEF,
of hot water or gravy; add a bunch of savoury herbs, one large or
two small carrots cut in thick slices, two or three moderate-sized
onions, two bay-leaves, and sufficient pepper and salt to season the
gravy. Let the meat simmer gently from four to five hours, and
turn it when it is half done. When ready to serve, lift the beef into
a hot dish, lay the vegetables round, and pour the gravy over it,
after having taken out the herbs and skimmed away the fat. In
France, half or the whole of a calf's foot is stewed with the beef,
which is there generally larded with thick lardoons of fat bacon.
(For larding, see Chapter X.) Veal dressed in this way is even
better than beef. The stewpan used for either should be as nearly
of the size of the meat as possible.
Beef, 7 to 8 lbs.: 4 to 5 hours.
STEWED SIRLOIN OF BEEF.
As a matter of convenience we have occasionally had this joint
stewed instead of roasted, and have found it excellent. Cut out the
inside or fillet as entire as possible, and reserve it for a separate dish;
then remove the bones with care, or let the butcher do this. Spread
'the meat flat on a table and cover the inside with thin slices of striped
bacon, after having first strewed over it a mixed seasoning of a small
teaspoonful of salt, half as much mace or nutmeg, and a moderate
quantity of pepper or cayenne. Roll and bind the meat up firmly,
lay it into a stewpan or thick iron saucepan nearly of its size, and adá
the bones and as much good beef broth as will nearly cover the
joint. Should this not be at hand, put a few slices of lean ham or
bacon under the beef, and lay round it three pounds of neck or
knuckle of veal, or of stewing beef divided into several parts; then
pour to it cold water instead of broth. In either case, so soon as it
has boiled a few minutes and been well cleaned from scum, throw in
a large faggot of savoury herbs, three or four carrots, as many leeks,
or a large onion stuck with a dozen cloves; and an hour later two
blades of mace, and half a teaspoonful of peppercorns. Stew the
beef
very gently indeed from four to five hours, and longer, should
the joint be large: serve it with a good Espagnole sauce piquante, or
brown caper sauce.
Add what salt may be needed before the vege-
tables are thrown in; and, after the meat is lifted out, boil down to
soup or gravy the liquor in which it has been stewed. To many
tastes it would be an improvement to flour and brown the outside of
the beef in butter before the broth or water is poured to it: it may
also be stewed (but somewhat longer) salf-covered with rich gravy,
and turned when partially done. Minced eschalots may be strewed
prer the inside before it is rolled, when their strong savour is re-
lished, or veal forcemeat may supply their place.


194
CHAP. X.
DOMESTIC COOKERY.
TO STEW A RUMP OF BEEF.
This joint is more easily carved, and is of better appearance when
the bones are removed before it is dressed. Roll and bind it firmly
with a fillet of tape, cover it with strong cold beef broth or gravy,
and stew it very gently indeed from six hours to between seven and
eight; add to it, after the scum has been well cleared off, one large
or two moderate-sized onions stuck with thirty cloves, a head of
celery, two carrots, two turnips, and a large faggot of savoury herbs.
When the beef is perfectly tender quite through, which may be
known by probing it with a sharp thin skewer, remove the fillets of
tape, dish it neatly, and serve it with a rich Espagnóle, and a gar-
nish of forced tomatas, or with a highly-flavoured brown English
gravy, and stewed carrots in the dish : for these last the mild pre-
paration of garlic or eschalots, of page 122, may be substituted with
good effect. They should be well drained, laid round the meat, and
a little brown gravy should be poured over the whole.
This is the most simple and economical manner of stewing the
beef; but should a richer one be desired, half roast the joint, and
stew it afterwards in strong gravy to which a pint of mushrooms, and
a pint of sherry or Madeira, should be added an hour before it is
ready for table. Keep it hot while a portion of the gravy is thick-
ened with a well-made brown roux (see Chapter Iv.), and
seasoned with salt, cayenne, and any other spice it may require.
Garnish it with large balls of forcemeat highly seasoned with minced
eschalots, rolled in egg and bread-crumbs, and fried a fine golden
brown.
Plainly stewed from 6 to 7 or 8 hours. Or : half roasted then
stewed from 4 to 5 hours.
Obs.--Grated horse-radish, mixed with some well-thickened brown
gravy, a teaspoonful of mustard, and a little lemon-juice or vinegar,
is a good sauce for stewed beef.
BEEF PALATES. (ENTRÉE.)
First rub them well with salt, to cleanse them well; then wash
them thoroughly in several waters, and leave them to soak for half
an hour before they are dressed. Set them over the fire in cold
water, and boil them gently until the skin will peel off, and the
palates are tolerably tender. It is difficult to state the exact time
required for this, as some will be done in two hours and a half, and
others in not less than from four to five hours. When thus pre-
pared, the palates may be cut into various forms, and simmered until
fit to serve in rich brown gravy, highly flavoured with ham, cay-
enne, wine, and lemon-peel; or they will make an excellent currie.
As they are very insipid of themselves, they require a sauce of some
piquancy, in which, after they have been peeled and trimmed, they


CHAP. X.]
195
BEEF.
should be stewed from twenty to thirty minutes, or until they are
perfectly tender. The black parts of them must be cut away, when
the skin is taken off. An onion, stuck with a few cloves, a carrot
sliced, a teaspoonful of whole white pepper, a slice of butter, and a
teaspoonful of salt, may be boiled with the palates in the first
instance; and they will be found very good, if sent to table in the
curried gravy of Chapter XVI., or in the Soubise of Chapter VI.,
made thinner than the receipts direct.
Boiled from 2 to 4 or 5 hours. Stewed from 20 to 30 utes.
Obs.-A French cook of some celebrity, orders the palates to be
laid on the gridiron until the skin can be easily peeled or scraped off;
the plan seems a good one, but we have not tried it.
BEEF PALATES.
(Neapolitan Mode.)
Boil the palates until the skin can be easily removed, then stew
them very tender in good veal broth, lay them on a drainer and let
them cool; cut them across obliquely into strips of about a quarter-
inch in width, and finish them by either of the receipts for dressing
maccaroni, which will be found in Chapters XVIII. and XX.
STEWED OX-TAILS.
They should be sent from the butcher ready jointed. Soak and
wash them well, cut them into joints or into lengths of two or three
joints, and cover them with cold broth or water. As soon as they
boil remove the scum, and add a half-teaspoonful of salt or as much
more as may be needed, and a little common pepper or cayenne, an
onion stuck with half a dozen cloves, two or three small carrots, and
a branch or two of parsley. When these have simmered for two
hours and a quarter, try the meat with a fork, and should it not be
perfectly tender, let it remain over the fire until it is so. Ox-tails
sometimes require nearly or quite three hours' stewing: they may be
served with the vegetables, or with the gravy strained from them,
and thickened like the English stew of the present chapter.
Ox-tails, 2; water or broth to cover them; salt, 1 teaspoonful, or
more; little pepper or cayenne ; onion, 1 ; cloves, 6; carrots, 2 or 3;
parsley, 2 or 3 branches : 27 to 3 hours.
BROILED OX-TAIL. (ENTRÉE.)
(Very good.)
When the ox-tail is ready for the stewpan, throw it into plenty
of boiling water slightly salted, and simmer it for fifteen minutes ;
then take it up and put it into fresh water to cool; wipe it, and lay
it round in a small stewpan without dividing it, just cover it with
good beef gravy, and stew it gently until very tender ; drain it a


196
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. X.
little, sprinkle over it a small quantity of salt and cayenne, dip it into
clarified butter and then into some fine bread-crumbs, with which
it should be thickly covered, lay it on the gridiron, and when
equally browned all over serve it immediately. If more convenient
the ox-tail may be set into the oven or before the fire, until properly
coloured : it may likewise be sent to table without broiling, dished
upon stewed cabbage or in its own gravy thickened, and with tomata
sauce, in a tureen.
TO SALT AND PICKLE BEEF, IN VARIOUS WAYS.
Let the meat bang a couple of days in mild weather, and four or
five in winter, before it is salted or pickled. During the heat of
summer it is better to immerse it entirely in brine, that it may be
secured alike from the flies, and from the danger of becoming putrid.
Trim it, and take out the kernels from the fat; then rub a little fine
dry salt over it, and leave it until the following day; drain it well
from the blood, which will be found to have flowed from it, and it
will be ready for any of the following modes of curing, which are all
excellent of their kind, and have been well proved.
In very cold weather, the salt may be applied quite warm to the
meat : it should always be perfectly dry, and reduced to powder.
Saltpetre hardens and renders the meat indigestible; sugar, on the
contrary, mellows and improves it much ; and it is more tender when
Pured with bay salt than when common salt is used for it.
TO SALT AND BOIL A ROUND OF BEEF.
Mix an ounce of salt petre, finely powdered, with half a pound of
very coarse sugar, and rub the beef thoroughly with them; in two
days add three quarters of a pound of common salt, well dried and
beaten ; turn and rub the meat well in every part with the pickle
for three weeks, when it will be fit to dress. Just wash off the salt,
and skewer the beef as round and as even as possible ; bind it tightly
with broad tape, cover it with cold water, place it over a rather
brisk fire, and after it boils draw it to the side of the stove and let it
simmer gently for at least five hours. Carrots, mashed turnips, or
cabbages, are usually served with boiled beef; and horse-radish
stewed for ten minutes in equal parts of vinegar and water, then
pressed well from them, and mixed with some rich melted butter, is
good sauce for it.
Pieef, 20 lbs.; coarse sugar, } lb.; saltpetre, 1 oz.: 2 days. Salt,
0.21 days. Boil 5 hours, or more.
good cc-Beef cured by this receipt if properly boiled, is tender, of
and brisur and flavour, and not over salt. The rump, edge-bone,
round. t may be salted, or pickled in the same way as the


CHAP. X.]
197
BEEF.
HAMBURGH PICKLE FOR BEEF, HAMS, AND TONGUE.
Boil together, for twenty minutes, two gallons of water, three
pounds of bay salt, two pounds of coarse sugar, two ounces of salt-
petre, and two of black pepper, bruised, and tied in a fold of muslin;
clear off the scum thoroughly, as it rises, pour the pickle into a deep
earthen pan, and when it is quite cold lay in the meat, of which
every part must be perfectly covered with it. A moderate-sized
round of beef will be ready for table in a fortnight; it should be
turned occasionally in the brine. Five pounds of common salt may
be substituted for the quantity of bay salt given above; but the
meat will not be so finely flavoured.
Water, 2 gallons; bay-salt, 3 lbs.; saltpetre, 2 oz.; black pepper,
2 oz.; sugar, 2 lbs. : 20 minutes.
ANOTHER PICKLE FOR TONGUES, BEEF, AND HAMS.
To three gallons of spring water add six pounds of common salt,
two pounds of bay-salt, two pounds of common loaf sugar, and two
ounces of saltpetre. Boil these over a gentle fire, and be careful to
take off all the scum as it rises: when quite cold it will be fit for
use. Rub the meat to be cured, with fine salt, and let it drain for a
day in order to free it from the blood ; then immerse it in the brine,
taking care that every part of it shall be covered. Young pork
should not remain more than from three to five days in the pickle;
but hams for drying may be left in it for a fortnight at least :
tongues will be ready in rather less time. Beef may remain from
one
week to two, according to its size, and the degree of saltness
desired for it. A little experience will soon teach the exact time
required for the different kinds of meat. When the pickle has been
in use for about three months, boil it up again gently, and take the
scum carefully off. Add to it three pounds of common salt, four
ounces of sugar, and one of saltpetre: it will remain good for many
months.
Water, 3 gallons ; common salt, 6 lbs.; bay salt, 2 lbs.; loaf sugar,
2 lbs.; saltpetre, 2 oz. : boil 20 to 30 minutes.
DUTCH, OR HUNG BEEF.
For fourteen pounds weight of the rou nd, the rump, or the thick
flank of beef, mix two ounces of saltpetre with the same quantity of
coarse sugar; rub the meat with them in every part, and let it
remain for two days, then add one pound of bay salt, four ounces of
common salt, and one ounce of ground black pepper. Rub these
ingredients thoroughly into the beef, and in four days pour over it a
pound of treacle ; rub and turn it daily for a fortnight; drain, and
send it to be smoked. When wanted for table, put it into plenty of


198
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. X.
boiling water, boil it slowly, and press it under a heavy weight while
hot. A slice of this beef, from which the edges have been carefully
trimmed, will serve to flavour soups or gravies as well as ham.
Beef, 14 lbs.; saltpetre and coarse sugar, each 2 oz.: 2 days.
Bay salt, 1 lb.; common salt, 4 oz.: pepper, 1 oz.: 4 days. Treacle,
I lb.: 14 days.
Obs.—Three quarters of a pound of coarse sugаr may be rubbed
into the meat at first, and the treacle may be altogether omitted;
cloves and mace, too, may be added in the same proportion as for
spiced beef.
COLLARED BEEF.
Only the thinnest part of the flank, or the ribs, which are not so
generally used for it, will serve conveniently for collaring. The first
of these should be hung in a damp place for a day or two, to soften
the outer skin ; then rubbed with coarse sugar, and left for a couple
of days; when, for eight pounds of the meat, one ounce of salt petre
and half a pound of salt should be added. In ten days it will be fit
to dress. The bones and tough inner skin must be removed, and
the beef sprinkled thickly on the under side with parsley and other
savoury herbs shred small, before it is rolled, which should be done
very tightly: it must then be secured with a cloth, and bound as
closely as possible with broad tape. It will require nearly or quite
five hours of gentle boiling, and should be placed while hot under a
weight, or in a press, without having the tape and cloth removed.
Beef, 8 lbs.; sugar, 3 oz.; salt, 8 oz. : 10 days. Boil 5 hours.
COLLARED BEEF.
(Another way.)
Mix half an ounce of saltpetre with the same quantity of pepper,
four ounces of bay salt, and four of common salt; with these rub
well from six to seven pounds of the thin flank, and in four days add
seven ounces of treacle; turn the beef daily in the pickle for a week
or more ; dip it into water, bone it and skin the inside, roll and bind
it up very tightly, lay it into cold water, and boil it for three hours
and a half. We have found beef dressed by this receipt extremely
good : herbs can, of course, be added to it as usual. Spices and
juniper beries would to many tastes improve it, but we give the
receipt simply as we have been accustomed to have it used.
Thin flank, 6 to 7 lbs.; bay salt, and common salt, each 4 cz;
saltpetre, oz.; pepper, 1 oz. : 4 days. Treacle, 7 cz.: 8 to 10
days. Boiled 3 hours.
A COMMON RECEIPT FOR SALTING BEEF.
One ounce of saltpetre, and a pound of common salt, will be
sufficient for sixteen pounds of beef. Both should be well dried, and


CHAP. X.]
199
BEEF.
finely powdered; the saltpetre rubbed first equally over the meat,
and the salt next applied in every part. It should be rubbed
thoroughly with the pickle and turned daily, from a week to ten
days. An ounce or two of sugar mixed with the saltpetre will
render the beef more tender and palatable.
Beef, 16 lbs.; saltpetre, 1 oz.; salt, 1 lb : 7 to 10 days.
SPICED ROUND OF BEEF.
(Very highly flavoured.)
Rub the beef well in every part with half a pound of coarse brown
sugar, and let it remain two days; then reduce to powder, and mix
thoroughly before they are applied to the meat, two ounces of salt-
petre, three quarters of a pound of common salt, a quarter of a pound
of black pepper, three ounces of allspice, and four of bruised juniper-
berries. Rub these ingredients strongly and equally over the joint,
and do so daily for three weeks, turning it at the same time. Just
wash off the spice, and put the beef into a tin, or covered earthen
pan as nearly of its size as possible, with a cup of water or gravy;
cover the top thickly with chopped beef-suet, and lay a coarse thick
crust over the pan; place the cover on it, and bake the meat from
five to six hours in a moderate oven, which should not, however, be
sufficiently fierce to harden the outside of the joint, which, if pro-
perly managed will be exceedingly tender. Let it cool in the pan;
and clear off the suet before it is dished. It is to be served cold, and
will remain good for a fortnight.
Beef, 20 to 25 lbs. weight; sugar, 3 oz.: 2 days. Saltpetre, 2 oz.;
common salt, lb.; black pepper, 4 oz. ; allspice, 3 oz. ; juniper-
berries, 4 oz. : 21 days. Baked 5 to 6 hours.
Obs.-We have not ourselves tested this receipt, but the meat
cured by it has received such high commendation from several of our
friends who have partaken of it frequently, that we think we may
safely insert it without. The proportion of allspice appears to us
more than would be agreeable to many tastes, and we would rather
recommend that part of it should be omitted, and that a portion of
nutmeg, mace, and cloves, should be substituted for it; as we have
found these spices to answer well in the following receipt.
SPICED BEEP.
(Good and wholesome.)
For twelve pounds of the round, rump, or thick flank of beef,
take a large teaspoonful of freshly-pounded mace, and of ground
black pepper, twice as much of cloves, one small nutmeg, and a
quarter of a teaspoonful of cayenne, all in the finest powder. Mix
them well with seven ounces of brown sugar, rub the beef with them
and let it lie three days; add to it then half a pound of fine salt, an


200
MODERN COOKERY.
(CUAP. X.
rub and turn it once in twenty-four hours for twelve days. Just
wash, but do not soak it; skewer, or bind it into good form, put it
into a stewpan or saucepan nearly of its size, pour to it a pint and a
half of good beef broth, and when it begins to boil, take off the scum,
and throw in one small onion, a moderate-sized faggot of thyme and
parsley, and two large, or four small carrots. Let it simmer quite
softly for four hours and a half, and if not wanted to serve hot,
leave it in its own liquor until it is nearly cold. This is an excellent
and far more wholesome dish than the hard, bright-coloured beef
which is cured with large quantities of salt and saltpetre: two or
three ounces of juniper-berries may be added to it with the spice, to
heighten its flavour.
Beef, 12 lbs. ; sugar, 7 oz.; mace and black pepper, cach, 1 large
teaspoonful; cloves, in powder, 1 large dessertspoonful; nutmeg, 1 ;
cayenne, teaspoonful : 3 days. Fine salt, } lb. : 12 days. Beef
broth (or bouillon), li pint; onion, 1 small; bunch of herbs; car-
rots, 2 large, or 4 small : stewed 4! hours.
Obs.-We give this receipt exactly as we have often had it used,
but celery and turnips might be added to the gravy; and when the
apeparance of the meat is much considered, three-quarters of an
ounce of saltpetre may be mixed with the spices; the beef may also
be plainly boiled in water only, with a few vegetables, or baked in a
decp pan with a little gravy. No meat must ever be left to cool in
the stewpan or saucepan in which it is cooked ; it must be lifted into
a pan of its own depth, and the liquor poured upon it.
A MINIATURE ROUND OF BEEF.
“ Select a fine rib of beef, and have it cut small or large in width,
according to your taste; it may thus be made to weigh from five to
twelve pounds, or more. Take out the bone, and wrap the meat
round like a fillet of veal, securing it with two or three wooden
skewers; place it in a strong pickle for four or five days, and then
cook it, taking care that it does not boil, but only simmers, from
forty minutes, or more, according to its size. It is best to put it on
in hot water, as it will not draw the gravy so much as cold. Many
persons adjust a rib of beef in this way for roasting: let them try it
salted, and they need not envy the possessor of the finest round of
beef.” We give the receipt to our readers in its original form, and
we can assure them, from our own experience, that it is a good one;
but we would recommend that, in dressing the meat, quite the usual
time for each pound of it should be allowed. When boned and
rolled at the butcher's, the skewers should be removed when it is
first brought in; it should be well wiped with a dry cloth, or washed
with a little fresh brine, and a small quantity of salt and saltpetre
should be rubbed over the inside, it may then be firmly boună
with tape, and will be quite ready to boil when taken from the
pickle. The sirloin, after the inside fillet is removed, may be cured


CHAP. X.]
201
BEEF.
and dressed in the same way, and will be found super-excellent it
the beef be well fatted and properly kept. The Hamburgh pickle
(see page 197) is perhaps the best for these joints. Part of the
rump, taken clear of bone, answers admirably when prepared by this
receipt.
BEEF ROLL, OR CANELLON DE BEUF. (ENTRÉE.)
Chop and mix thoroughly two pounds of lean and very tender
beef with one pound of slightly striped bacon; season them with a
large teaspoonful of pepper, a little salt, a small nutmeg, or two-
thirds as much mace, the grated rind of a lemon, or a teaspoonful of
thyme and parsley finely minced. Form the whole into a thick
rouleau, wrap a buttered paper round it, enclose it in a paste made
of flour and water, and send it to a moderate oven for a couple of
hours. Remove the paper and the crust, and serve the meat with a
little brown grany.
Lamb and veal are excellent dressed in this
way, particularly when mixed with plenty of mushrooms. Brown
cucumber sauce should be served with the lamb; and currie, or
oyster sauce, when there are no mushrooms, with the veal. A
flavouring of onion or of eschalot, where it is liked, can be added at
pleasure to the beef : suet, or the fat of the meat, may be substituted
for the bacon.
Beef, 2 lbs.; bacon, 1 lb. ; pepper, 1 oz.; little salt; small nutmeg;
rind of 1 lemon, or savoury herbs, 1 tablespoonful : baked 2 hours.
MINCED COLLOPS AU NATUREL.
Mince finely a pound of very tender rump steak, free from fat or
skin; season it with a moderate quantity of pepper and salt, set it
over a gentle fire, and keep it stirred with a fork until it is quite hot
that it may not gather into lumps. Simmer it very slowly in its
own gravy from ten to twelve minutes, and then, should it be too
dry, add a little boiling water, broth, or gravy; stew it for two
minutes longer, and serve it directly.
These collops are particularly suited to persons in delicate health,
or of weak digestion; and when an extra dish is required at a short
notice, from the expedition with which they may be dressed, they are
a convenient resource.
10 to 12 minutes.
SAVOURY MINCED COLLOPS.
Make a little thickening (see Brown Roux, Chapter V.) with about
an ounce and a half of butter, and a dessertspoonful of flour; when
it begins to be coloured, shake lightly into it a large teaspoonful of
finely-shred parsley or mixed savoury herbs, two-thirds as much of
salt, and half the quantity of pepper. Keep these stirred over a


202
[CHAP. X.
MODERN COOKERY.
gentle fire until the thickening is of a deep yellow brown; then add
a pound of rump-steak, finely minced, and keep it well separated with
a fork until it is quite hot; next pour to it gradually half a cupful of
boiling water, and stew the collops very gently for ten minutes.
Before they are served, stir to them a little catsup, chili vinegar
or lemon-juice: a small quantity of minced onion, eschalot, or a
particle of garlic, may be added at first to the thickening when the
flavour is not objected to.
A RICHER VARIETY OF MINCED COLLOPS.
Omit the minced herbs from the thickening, and season it with
cayenne and a small quarter of a teaspoonful of pounded mace. Sub-
stitute beef gravy for the boiling water, and when the collops are
nearly done, fill a wineglass with one fourth of mushroom catsup,
and three of port wine, and stir these to the meat. Serve the collops
very hot, and garnish them with alternate forcemeat balls (see No. 1,
Chapter VIII.) and fried sippets. If flavoured with a little gravy
made from the bones of a roast hare, and served with currant jelly,
these collops will scarcely be distinguished from game.
SCOTCH MINCED COLLOPS.
“ Chop the beef small, season it with salt and pepper, put it, in its
raw state, into small jars, and pour on the top some clarified butter
When wanted for use put the clarified butter into a frying-ran, and
slice some onions into the pan and fry them. Add a little water to
them, and put in the minced meat. Stew it well, and in a few
minutes it will be fit to serve."
BEEF TONGUES.
These may be cured by any of the receipts which we have already
given for pickling beef, or for those which will be found further on
for hams and bacon. Some persons prefer them cured with salt and
saltpetre only, and dried naturally in a cool and airy room. For
such of our readers as like them highly and richly flavoured we give
our own method of having them prepared, which is this :-“ Řub
over the tongue a handful of fine salt, and let it drain until the fol-
lowing day; then, should it weigh from seven to eight pounds, mix
thoroughly an ounce of saltpetre, two ounces of the coarsest sugar,
and half an ounce of black pepper ; when the tongue has been well
rubbed with these, add three ounces of bruised juniper-berries; and
when it has laid two days, eight ounces of bay salt, dried and
pounded; at the end of three days more, pour on it half a pound of
treacle, and let it remain in the pickle a fortnight after this, then
hang it to drain, fold it in brown paper, and send it to be smoked
over a wood fire for two or three weeks. Should the peculiar flavour


CAAP. X.]
BEEF.
203
of the juniper-berries prevail too much, or be disapproved, they may
be in part, or altogether, omitted ; and six ounces of sugar may be
rubbed into the tongue in the first instance when it is liked better
than treacle.
Tongue, 7 to 8 lbs. ; salt petre, 1 oz.; black pepper, 1 oz.; sugar,
2 oz., juniper-berries, 3 oz.: 2 days. Bay salt, 8 oz. : 3 days.
Treacle, { lb.: 14 days.
Obs.- Before the tongue is salted, the root end, which has an un-
sightly appearance, should be trimmed away: it is indeed usual to
take it off entirely, but some families prefer part of it left on for the
sake of the fat.
BEEF TONGUES.
(A Suffolk Receipt.)
For each very large tongue, mix with half a pound of salt two
ounces of saltpetre and three quarters of a pound of the coarsest
sugar; rub the tongues daily, and turn them in the pickle for five
weeks, when they will be fit to be dressed, or to be smoked.
1 large tongue ; salt, 1 lb.; sugar, 1 lb. ; saltpetre, 2 oz. : 5 weeks.
TO DRESS BEEF TONGUES.
When taken fresh from the pickle they require no soaking, unless
they should have remained in it much beyond the usual time, or have
been cured with a more than common proportion of salt; but when
they have been smoked and highly dried, they should be laid for two
or three hours into cold, and as much longer into tepid water, before
they are dressed : extremely dry, ten or twelve hours must be
allowed to soften them, and they should always be brought very
slowly to boil. Two or three carrots and a large bunch of savoury
herbs, added after the scum is cleared off, will improve them. They
should be simmered until they are extremely tender, when the skin
will peel from them easily. A highly dried tongue of moderate size
will usually require from three and a half to four hours' boiling; an
unsmoked one about an hour less; and for one which has not been
salted at all a shorter time will suffice.
BORDYKE RECEIPT FOR STEWING A TONGUE.
After the tongue has been soaked, trimmed, and washed with
extreme nicety, lay it into a vessel of fitting size, and place round it
three or four pounds of the neck, or of any other lean cuttings of
beef, with some bones of undressed veal, and pour in sufficient cold
water to keep it covered until it is done; or, instead of this, use
strong unseasoned beef broth made with the shin, and any odd bits or
bones of veal which may be at hand. Let the tongue be brought to
boil very gradually, that it may be plump and tender. Remove the
scum when it first rises, and when it is quite cleared off add a large


204
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. X.
faggot of parsley, thyme, and winter savoury, three carrots, a small
onion, and one mild turnip. After three hours and a half of gentle
simmering, probe the tongue, and if sufficiently done peel off the
skin and serve it quickly. If not wanted hot for table, lay it upon
a very clean board or trencher, and fasten it down to it by passing a
carving fork through the root, and a smaller one through the tip,
drawing the tongue straight with the latter before it is fixed in the
board ; let it remain thus until it is quite cold. It is much the
fashion at present to glaze hams and tongues, but this should never
be attempted by a cook not well acquainted with the manner of doing
it, and the proper flavour and appearance of the glaze. For direc-
tions to make it, see page 104. Where expense is not regarded, three
or four pounds of veal may be added to the beef in this receipt, or
the tongue may be stewed in a prepared gravy made with equal parts
of beef and veal, and vegetables as above, but without salt: this may
afterwards be converted into excellent soup. A fresh or an un-
smoked tongue may be dressed in this way, but will require less
time: for the former, salt must be added to the gravy.
TO ROAST A BEEP IIEART.
Wash and soak the heart very thoroughly, cut away the lobes,
fill the cavities with a veal forcemeat (No. 1, Chapter VIII.), secure
it well with a needle and twine, or very coarse thread, and roast
it at a good fire for an hour and a half, keeping it basted plenti-
fully with butter. Pour melted butter over it, after it is dished, and
send it to table as hot as possible. Many persons boil the heart for
three quarters of an hour before it is put to the fire, and this is said
to render it more delicate eating; the time of roasting must of course
be proportionately diminished. Good brown gravy may be sub-
stituted for the melted butter, and currant jelly also may be served
with it.
11 hour, or more.
BEEF KIDNEY.
Slice the kidney rather thin, after having stripped off the skin and
removed the fat; season it with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and
sprinkle over it plenty of minced parsley, or equal parts of parsley
and eschalots chopped very small. Fry the slices over a brisk fire,
and when nicely browned on both sides, stir amongst them a tea-
spoonful of flour, and pour in by degrees a cup of gravy and a glass
of white wine; bring the sauce to the point of boiling, add a morsel
of fresh butter and a tablespoonful of lemon-juice, and pour the
whole into a hot dish garnished with fried bread. This is a French
receipt, and a very excellent one.


CHAP. X.]
205
BEEF.
BEEF KIDNEY,
(A plainer way.)
Trim, and cut the kidney into slices; season them with salt and
pepper, and dredge them well with flour; fry them on both sides, and
when they are done through lift them out, empty the pan, and make
gravy for them with a small slice of butter, a dessertspoonful of
flour, pepper and salt, and a cup of boiling water; shake these
round and give them a minute's simmering: add a little mushroom
catsup, lemon juice, eschalot vinegar, or any store sauce that will give
a good flavour. Minced herbs are to many tastes an improvement to
this dish, to which a small quantity of onion shred fine can be added
when it is liked.
6 to 9 minutes.
AN EXCELLENT HASH OF COLD BEEF.
Put a slice of butter into a thick saucepan, and when it boils throw
in a dessertspoonful of minced herbs, and an onion (or two or three
eschalots) shred small : shake them over the fire until they are
lightly browned, then stir in a tablespoonful of flour, a little cayenne,
some mace or nutmeg, and half a teaspoonful of salt. When the
whole is well coloured, pour to it three-quarters of a pint or more of
broth or gravy, according to the quantity of meat to be served in it.
Let this boil gently for fifteen minutes; then strain it, add half a
wineglassful of mushroom or of compound catsup, lay in the meat,
and keep it by the side of the fire until it is heated through and is on
the point of simmering, but be sure not to let it boil
. Serve it up in
a very hot dish, and garnish it with fried or toasted sippets of bread.
A COMMON HASH OF COLD BEEF OR MUTTON.
Take the meat from the bones, slice it small, trim off the brown
edges, and stew down the trimmings with the bones well broken, an
onion, a bunch of thyme and parsley, a carrot cut into thick slices, a
few peppercorns, four cloves, some salt, and a pint and a half of
water. When this is reduced to little more than three quarters of a
pint, strain it, clear it from the fat, thicken it with a large dessert-
spoonful of rice flour, or rather less of arrow-root, add salt and
pepper if needed, boil the whole for a few minutes, then lay in the
meat and heat it well. Boiled potatoes are sometimes sliced hot into
a very common hash.
Obs.—The cook should be reminded that if the meat in a hash or
mince be allowed to boil, it will immediately become hard, and can
then only be rendered eatable by very long stewing, which is by no
means desirable for meat which is already sufficiently cooked.


206
[CHAP, X,
MODERN COOKERY.
BRESLAW OF BEEF.
(Good.)
Trim the brown edges from half a pound of undressed roast beef,
shred it small, and mix it with four ounces of fine bread-crumbs, a
teaspoonful of minced parley, and two-thirds as much of thyme, two
ounces of butter broken small, half a cupful of gravy or cream, a
high seasoning of pepper and cayenne and mace or nutmeg, a small
teaspoonful of salt, and three large eggs well whisked. Melt a little
butter in a deep dish, pour in the beef, and bake it half an hour; turn
it out, and send it to table with brown gravy in a tureen. When
cream or gravy is not at hand, an additional egg or two and rather
more butter must be usca. We think that grated lemon-rind im-
proves the breslaw. A portion of fat from the joint can be added
where it is liked. The mixture is sometimes baked in buttered cups.
Beef, } lb. ; bread-crumbs, 4 oz.; butter, 2 oz. ; gravy or cream,
cupful; parsley, 1 teaspoonful; thyme, two-thirds of teaspoonful;
eggs, 3 or 4, if small; salt, 1 teaspoonful ; pepper and nutmeg, }
teaspoonful each : bake } hour.
NORMAN HASH.
Peel and fry two dozens of button onions in butter until they are
lightly browned, then stir to them a tablespoonful of flour, and when
the whole is of a deep amber shade, pour in a wineglassful and a half
of red wine, and a large cup of boiling broth or water; add a season-
ing of salt and common pepper or cayenne, and a little lemon-pickle
catsup or lemon-juice, and boil the whole until the onions are quite
tender ; cut and trim into small handsome slices the remains of either
a roast or boiled joint of beef, and arrange them in a clean sauce-
pan ; pour the gravy and onions on them, and let them stand for
a while to imbibe the flavour of the sauce; then place the hash near
the fire, and when it is thoroughly hot serve it immediately, without
allowing it to boil.
FRENCH RECEIPT FOR HASHED BOUILLI.
Shake over a slow fire a bit of butter the size of an egg, and a
tablespoonful of flour; when they have simmered for a minute, stir
to them a little finely-chopped onion, and a dessertspoonful of
minced parsley ;' so soon as the whole is equally browned, add suf-
ficient pepper, salt, and nutmeg to season the hash properly, and
from half to three quarters of a pint of boiling water or of bouillon.
Put in the beef cut into small but thick slices ; let it stand by the fire
and heat gradually; and when near the point of boiling thicken the
sauce with the yolks of three eggs, mixed with a tablespoonful of


CHAP. X.]
BEEF.
207
lemon-juice. For change, omit the eggs, and substitute a table-
spoonful of catsup, and another of pickled gherkins minced or
sliced.
BAKED MINCED BEEF.
Mince tolerably fine, with a moderate proportion of its own fat, as
much of the inside of a cold roast joint as will suffice for a dish: that
which is least done is best for the purpose. Season it rather highly
with cayenne and mace or nutmeg, and moderately with salt; add,
when they are liked, one or two eschalots minced small, with a few
chopped mushrooms either fresh or pickled, or two tablespoonsful of
mushroom catsup. Mix the whole well with a cupful of good gravy,
and put it into a deep dish. Place on the top an inch-thick layer of
bread-crumbs, moisten these plentifully with clarified butter passed
through a small strainer over them, and send the mince to a slow
oven for twenty minutes, or brown it in a Dutch oven.
SAUNDERS.
Spread on the dish in which the saunders are to be served, a layer
of smoothly mashed potatoes, which have been seasoned with salt and
mixed with about an ounce of butter to the pound. On these spread
equally and thickly some underdressed beef or mutton minced and
mixed with a little of the gravy that has run from the joint, or with
a few spoonsful of any other; and season it with salt, pepper, and a
small quantity of nutmeg. Place evenly over this another layer of
potatoes, and send the dish to a moderate oven for half an hour. A
very superior kind of saunders is made by substituting fresh meat for
roasted, but this requires to be baked an hour or something more.
Sausage-meat highly seasoned may be served in this way, instead of
beef or mutton.
TO BOIL MARROW BONES.
Let the large ends of the bones be sawed by the butcher, so that
when they are dished they may stand upright; and if it can be
done conveniently, let them be placed in the same manner in the
vessel in which they are boiled. Put a bit of paste, made with flour
and water, over the ends where the marrow is visible, and tie a cloth
tightly over them; take the paste off before the bones are sent
to table, and serve them, placed upright in a napkin, with slices of
dry toasted bread apart. When not wanted for immediate use, they
may be partially boiled, and set into a cool place, where they will
remain good for many days.
Large marrow bones, 2 hours; moderate sized, it hour. To
keep · boil them i} hour, and from to hour more when wanted
for table.


208
[CHAP 1
MODERN COOKERY.
BAKED MARROW BOXES.
When the bones have been sawed to the length of a deep pie-dish,
wash and wipe them dry, lay them into it, and cover them entirely
with a good batter. Send them to a moderate oven for an hour
or more, and serve them in the batter.
CLARIFIED MARROW FOR KEEPING.
Take the marrow from the bones while it is as fresh as possible; cut
it spall, put it into a very clean jar, and melt it with a gentle heat,
either in a pan of water placed over the fire, or at the mouth of a
cool oven; strain it through a muslin, let it settle for a minute or
two, and pour it, clear of sediment, into small jars. Tie skins, or
double folds of thick paper, over them as soon as the marrow is
cold, and store it in a cool place. It will remain good for months.
OX-CHEEK STUFFED AND BAKED.
(Good, and not expensive.)
Cleanse, with the greatest nicety, a fresh ox-cheek by washing,
scraping it lightly with a knife, and soaking out the blood; then put
it into plenty of warm water, and boil it gently for about an hour.
Throw in a large teaspoonful of salt, and carefully remove all the
scum as it rises to the surface. Let it cool after it is lifted out, and
then take away the bones, remembering always to work the knife
close to them, and to avoid piercing the skin. When the cheek has
become cold, put into it a good roll of forcemeat, made by the receipt
Nos. 1, 2, or 3, of Chapter IX., or substitute the oyster or mushroom
forcemeat which follows; but in any case increase the quantity one-
half at least: then skewer or bind up the cheek securely, and send it
to a moderate oven for an hour or an hour and a half. It should be
baked until it is exceedingly tender quite through. Drain it well
from fat, dish it, withdraw the skewers, or unbind it gently, and either
sauce it with a little good brown gravy, or send it to table with melted
butter in a tureen, a cut lemon, and cayenne, or with any sauce of
Chapter V., which may be considered more appropriate.


CHAP. ]
209
VEAL,
CHAPTER Xl.
Peal.
6
No.
1. Loin, Best End.
2. Loin, Chump End.
3. Fillet.
4. Hind Knuckle.
6. Fore Knuckle.
No.
6. Neck, Best End.
7. Neck, Scrag End.
8. Blade Bone.
9. Breast, Best End.
10. Breast, Brisket End.
In season all the year, but scarce and expensive in mid-winter, and very
early spring.
TO CHOOSE VEAL.
VEAL should be fat, finely grained, white, firm, and not overgrown:
for when very large it is apt to be coarse and tough. It is more
difficult to keep than any other meat except pork, and should never
be allowed to acquire the slightest taint before it is dressed, as any
approach to putridity renders it equally unwholesome and offensive
to the taste. The fillet, the loin, the shoulder, and the best end of
the neck, are the parts generally selected for roasting; the breast and
knuckle are more usually stewed or boiled, although the former
18 excellent roasted. The udder or firm white fat of the fillet,
is much used by French cooks instead of butter, in the composition
of their forcemeats: for these, it is first well boiled, then left until
quite cold, and afterwards thoroughly pounded before it is mixed
with the other ingredients. The head and feet of the calf are
P


212
[CHAP..
MODERN COOKERY.
head upon it with the bones well broken; prur in half a gallon
of cold water, or as much as will suffice to keep the head covered
until it is done, and simmer it very gently from an hour and a
quarter to an hour and three quarters. When it is extremely
tender, lift it out, and if wanted for table, remove the binding,
and serve it very hot, with currie sauce, rich oyster sauce, or egg
sauce and brown gravy; but should the remains, or the whole of it
be required for the following receipts, pour no gravy over it :
in the latter case do not take off the tape for several hours. The
tongue may be stewed with the head, but will require rather less
time. We do not think it needful to repeat in every receipt our
directions for adding salt to, and removing carefully the scum from,
meat that is stewed or boiled, but the cook must not neglect either.
When the trouble of boning is objected to, it can be dispensed with
for some of the dishes which follow, but not for all. After the head
is taken out, boil the gravy until it is well reduced, and rich : it
should be strongly jellied when cold. A bone of ham, or a slice of
hung beef will much improve its flavour; but vegetables must be
avoided if it be wanted to keep: a little spice and a faggot of parsley
may be added to it, and a calf's foot will be sure to give it the
requisite degree of firmness. This receipt is for a head without the
skin.
BURLINGTON WIIIMSEY.
Set aside until quite cold half a calf's head dressed by the pre-
ceding receipt. If, on, cutting it, the gelatinous part should not
appear perfectly tender, pare it off closely from the head, weigh,
and mince it; put it into a pint of good gravy, and stew it gently
from ten to fifteen minutes. Mince as much more of the head
as will make up a pound in weight after the edges are trimmed off,
and part of the fat is taken away; add to this three ounces of the
lean of a boiled ham finely chopped, the grated rind of a large
lemon, three teaspoonsful of parsley and one of thyme shred very
small, three quarters of a teaspoonful of mace, half a small nutmeg
grated, a teaspoonful of salt, and a half-quarter one of cayenne; stir
the whole well together, and put it, with half a pint more of gravy,
to the portion which has been already simmered. When the
whimsey has boiled softly from four to five minutes, pour it into
moulds or pans, in which slices of the tongue have been evenly
arranged, and when quite cold it will turn out very firınly. It may
be garnished, before it is sent to table, with branches of parsley,
which should, however, be perfectly dry; anù when served for
supper or luncheon, it may be accompanied by a salad dressing.
Calf's head, 1 lb.; lean of ham, 3 oz. ; gravy, 1} pint; rind of
1 large lemon ; parsley, 3 teaspoonsful ; thyme and salt, each I
teaspoonful; mace, teaspoonful ; } nutmeg; cayenne, # part of
teaspoonful: 5 minutes.


CHAP. X1.]
213
VEAL.
Obs.—The remains of a plain boiled head may be made to serve
for this dish, provided the gravy used with it be well jellied and of
high flavour. Slices from the small end of a boiled and smoked
ox-tongue, from their bright colour improve greatly its appearance.
It should be tasted before it is poured out, that salt or any other
seasoning may be added if needful. After three or four days'.
keeping, should any mould appear upon the surface, take it off,
re-melt the whimsey, and give it two minutes' boil. For change,
the herbs may be omitted, and the quantity of ham increased, or
some minced tongue substituted for it
CUTLETS OF CALF'S HEAD.
Prepare, by the Cook's Receipt, half a calf's head with or without
the skin on; only, in the latter case, allow more time for the boiling.
When it is quite cold, remove the fillets of tape, and cut the head into
slices of half an inch thick, brush them with yolk of egg, and dip
them into fine bread-crumbs, seasoned with the grated rind of half a
lemon, half a teaspoonful of minced savoury herbs, some cayenne, and
a little of the lean of a boiled ham chopped very small, should this
last be at hand. Fry the cutlets in butter of a fine light brown,
make some gravy in the pan as for veal cutlets, and add to it the
juice of half a lemon; or mix a large teaspoonful of currie-powder,
and one of flour, very smoothly with the butter, shake them over the
fire for four or five minutes, and let the gravy simmer as much
longer, after the water is added; or serve the cutlets, covered with
good mushroom sauce.
HASIIED CALF'S HEAD. (REMOVE.)
When the whole of this dish has to be prepared, make for it a
quart of stock, and proceed in all else as directed for mock turtle
soup (page 24); but after the head has been parboiled, cut down a
full pound and a half of it for the hash, and slice it small and thick,
instead of dividing it into dice. Make the brains into cakes (see
page 162), and garnish the dish with forcemeat - balls, rolled in
egg, and in the finest bread-crumbs, then fried a delicate brown, and
well drained, and dried upon a warm sieve reversed. The wine and
other seasonings should be the same as for the soup.
Rich gravy, 1 quart; flesh of calf's head, full' 1} lb.; wine, and
other seasonings, as for mock turtle soup.
Obs.—The gravy for this should be stewed with ham, eschalots,
&c., exactly as for the soup.
CHEAP IASH OF CALF'S HEAD.
Take the flesh from the bone of a cold boiled head, and put it
aside until wanted ; take about three pints of the liquor in which it
was cooked; brcak the bones, and stew them down with a small


214
[CHAP. XI.
MODERN COOKERY.
bunch of savoury herbs, a carrot, or two should they be small, a
little carefully fried onion, four cloves, a dozen coins of pepper,
and either a slice or two of lean ham or of smoked beef. When
the liquid is reduced nearly half, strain it, take off the fat, thicken it
with a little well made rour, or, if more convenient, with flour and
butter, stirred into it, when it boils, or with rice flour or arrow-root,
mixed with a little spice, mushroom catsup, or Harvey's sauce, and a
small quantity of lemon pickle or chili vinegar. Heat the meat
slowly in the sauce when it is ready, but do not allow it to boil.
The forcemeat, No. 1, of Chapter VIII., may be rolled into balls,
fried, and served round it. The gravy should be well seasoned. A
little of Liebeg's extract of beef (see Chapter I.), or as much good
beef broth as may be required for the hash, will convert this into a
really good dish. For preparations which are of themselves insipid,
the Jewish beef, of which we have often already spoken, is an ad-
mirable addition.
TO DRESS COLD CALF'S HEAD OR VEAL
A LA MÂITRE D'HOTEL. (GOOD.)
(English Receipt.)
Cut into small delicate slices, or into scollops of equal size, sufficient
cold calf's head or veal for a dish. Next knead very smoothly
together with a knife two ounces of butter, and a small dessertspoon-
ful of flour; put these into a stewpan or well tinned saucepan, and
keep them stirred or shaken over a gentle fire until they have
simmered for a minute or two, but do not let them take the slightest
colour; then add to them in very small portions (letting the sauce
boil up after each is poured in) half a pint of pale veal gravy, or of
good shin-of-beef stock, and when the whole is very smoothly
blended, and has boiled for a couple of minutes, mix together and
stir to it a tablespoonful of common vinegar, a dessertspoonful of
chili vinegar, a little cayenne, a tablespoonful of good mushroom
catsup, and a very small bit of sugar; and when the sauce again
boils, strew a tablespoonful of minced parsley over the meat, lay it in,
and let it stand by the fire until it is quite heated through, but do not
allow it to boil : if kept just at the simmering point for ten or
twelve minutes it may be served perfectly hot without. The addition
of the mushroom catsup converts this into an English sauce, and
renders it in colour, as well as in flavour, unlike the French one
which bears the same name, and which is acidulated generally with
lemon-juice instead of vinegar. Pickled mushrooms are sometimes
added to the dish : the parsley when it is objected to may be omitted,
and the yolks of two or three eggs mixed with a little cream may be
stirred in, but not allowed to boil, just before the meat is served.
When veal is used for this hash instead of calf s head, it should be


CHAP. XI.]
215
VEAL.
cut into slices not much larger than a shilling, and freei entirely
from fat, sinew, and the brown edges. When neither broth nor
gravy is at hand, a morsel or two of lean ham, and a few of the
trimmings or bones of the head or joint, may be boiled down to
supply its place.
Sufficient cold calf's head, or meat, for a dish ; butter, 2 oz.; flour,
1 small dessertspoonful; gravy, or strong broth, i pint; vinegar, and
mushroom catsup, of each tablespoonful ; chili vinegar, 1 dessert-
spoonful ; small bit of sugar; little cayenne, and salt if needed ;
parsley, 1 tablespoonful (pickled mushrooms or not at pleasure).
Obs.-Soles or codfish are very good, if raised neatly from the
bones, or flaked, and heated in this Maitre d'Hotel sauce.
calf's HEAD BRAWN.
(Author's Receipt.)
The half of a fine large calf's head with the skin on, will best
answer for this brawn. Take out the brains, and bone it entirely, or
get the butcher do this; rub a little fine salt over, and leave it to
drain for ten or twelve hours; next wipe it dry, and rub it well in
every part with three quarters of an ounce of saltpetre finely
powdered (or with an ounce should the head be very large) and
mixed with four ounces of common salt, and three of bay-salt, also
beaten fine; turn the head daily in this pickle for four or five days,
rubbing it a little each time; and then pour over it four ounces of
treacle, and continue to turn it every day, and baste it with the brine
very frequently for a month. Hang it up for a night to drain, fold
it in brown paper, and send it to be smoked where wood only is
burned, from three to four weeks. When wanted for table, wash
and scrape
it
very clean, but do not soak it; lay it, with the rind
downwards, into a saucepan or stewpan, which will hold it easily;
cover it well with cold water, as it will swell considerably in the
cooking; let it heat rather slowly, skim it thoroughly when it first
begins to simmer, and boil it as gently as possible from an hour and
three quarters to a couple of hours or more, should it not then be
perfectly tender quite through; for unless sufficiently boiled, the
skin, which greatly resembles brawn, will be unpleasantly tough
when cold. When the fleshy side of the head is done, which will be
twenty minutes or half an hour sooner than the outside, pour the
water from it, leaving so much only in the stewpan as will just cover
the gelatinous part, and simmer it until this is thoroughly tender. The
head thus cured is very highly flavoured, and most excellent eating.
The receipt for it is entirely new, having originated with ourselves.
We give the reader, in addition, the result of our first experiment with
it, which was entirely successful :-“A half calf's head, not very
large, without the skin, pickled with three ounces of common salt,
two of bay-salt, half an ounce of saltpetre, one ounce of brown


216
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. XL
sugar, and half an ounce of pepper, left four days; then three ounces
of treacle added, and the pickling continued for a month; smoked
nearly as long, and boiled between one hour and a half, and two
hours." The pepper was omitted in our second trial, because it did
not improve the appearance of the dish, although it was an advan-
tage in point of flavour. Juniper-berries might, we think, be added
with advantage, when they are liked ; and cayenne tied in a muslin
might supply the place of the pepper. It is an infinite improvement
to have the skin of the head left on.
TO ROAST A FILLET OF VEIL.
Take out the bone and put a good roll of forcemeat (No. 1,
Chapter VIII.) under the flap, dividing first, with a sharp knife, the
skin from thé meat sufficiently to admit the quantity required ;
secure it well, truss the veal firmly into good shape, place it at a
distance from the fire at first, and baste it with butter. The outside
will have a richer crust of browning if the meat be washed, wiped
tolerably dry, and well floured before it is laid to the fire. It should
be carefully watched, and basted often, that the fat may not burn.
Pour melted butter over it after it is dished, and serve with it
a boiled cheek of bacon and a lemon. Roast it from three hours and
a half, to four hours and a half, according to its size.
FILLET OF VEAL, AU BECHAMEL, WITH OYSTERS.
Roast, in the usual way, a delicate fillet of veal, and in preparing
it for the spit be careful to bind it up tightly, so that no cavity may
be left where the bone has been taken out. While it is at the fire,
plump gently in their own strained liquor, without allowing them to
boil, half a pint of fine native oysters, and, after having freed them
from the beards, set then aside ; then boil the beards for fifteen or
twenty minutes in nearly three quarters of a pint of good veal stock,
or in strong veal broth, made for the purpose; strain them out, add
the liquor of the oysters, also passed through a muslin or other fine
strainer, and convert the broth into rich white sauce, of which there
should be a full pint. When the veal is ready to serve, take it from
the spit, dish it in a very hot dish, and cut out quickly from the
centre in a cup-like form, about a pound of the meat, leaving a wide
margin round the joint, to be carved in the usual way. Mince, as
rapidly as possible, the white part of the veal which has been cut
from the fillet, and the plumped oysters ; put the whole into the
white sauce, which should be ready heated, bring it to the point of
boiling, pour it into the fillet, and send it immediately to table. The
joint should be placed under a well-heated cover, while the mince is
in course of preparation, and be kept near the fire.
When the knuckle of veal has been sent in with the fillet, a fev
think slices from it may be taken for the sauce ; but it should be


CHAP. XI.]
217
VEAL.
boiled down sufficiently early to allow it to cool, and to have every
particle of fat removed from it before it is used. A pound of the
meat ought to make, with the addition of the oyster liquor, sufficient
gravy for the sauce.
When expense is not consideration, the
béchamel of Chapter V. may be made for it, and the fillet may be
filled up entirely with whole oysters heated in it; or these may be
intermixed with the veal cut into shilling-sized collops. Mushroom-
buttons, stewed white in butter, can be substituted for the oysters,
when their season is past; and very small force-meat balls, deli-
cately fried, may then be piled entirely over the open part of the
fillet.
Persons who may take exception at the idea of oysters with roast
veal, as not being in accordance with the common etiquette of the
table, are recommended to give the innovation a trial before they
reject its adoption.
BOILED FILLET OF VEAL.
A small and delicately, white fillet should be selected for this
purpose. Bind it round with tape, after having washed it thoroughly;
cover it well with cold water, and bring it gently to boil ; watch, and
clear off carefully, the scum as it rises, and be, at the same time,
very cautious not to allow the water to become smoked. Let the
meat be gently simmered from three hours and a half to four and a
half, according to its weight. Send it to table with rich white
sauce, and a boiled tongue; or make for it in the first instance the
oyster forcemeat of Chapter VIII., and serve with the veal a tureen
of well-made oyster sauce.
31 to 41 hours.
ROAST LOIN OF VEAL.
It is not usual to stuff a loin of veal, but we greatly recommend
the practice, as an infinite improvement to the joint. Make the
same forcemeat as for the fillet; and insert it between the skin and
the flesh just over the ends of the bones. Skewer down the flap,
place the joint at a moderate distance from a sound fire, keep it con-
stantly basted, and be especially careful not to allow the kidney fat to
burn: to prevent this, and to ensure the good appearance of the
joint, a buttered paper is often fastened round the loin, and removed
about half an hour before it is taken from the fire. It is the fashion
in some counties to serve egg-sauce and brown gravy with roast
loin, or breast of veal.
The cook will scarcely need to be told that she must separate the
skin from the flank, with a sharp knife, quite from the end, to the
place where the forcemeat is to be put, and then skewer the whole


218
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. XI
very securely. When the veal is not papered, dredge it well with
flour soon after it is laid to the fire
2 to 24 hours.
BOILED LOIN OF VEAL.
If dressed with care and served with good sauces, this, when the
meat is small and white is an excellent dish, and often more accept-
able to persons of delicate habit than roast veal. Take from eight to
ten pounds of the best end of the loin, leave the kidney in with all
its fat, skewer or bind down the flap, lay the meat into cold water,
and boil it as gently as possible from two hours and a quarter to two
and a half, clearing off the scum perfectly, as in dressing the fillet.
Send it to table with well-made oyster sauce, or béchamel
, or with
white sauce well flavoured with lemon-juice, and with parsley,
boiled, pressed dry, and finely chopped.
2} to 2 hours.
STEWED LOIN OF VEAL.
Take part of a loin of veal, the chump end will do; put into
a large, thick, well-tinned iron saucepan, or into a stewpan, about a
couple of ounces of butter, and skake it over a moderate fire until
it begins to brown; flour the veal well all over, lay it into the
saucepan, and when it is of a fine, equal, light brown, pour gradually
in veal broth, gravy, or boiling water to nearly half its depth ; add a
little sauce, one or two sliced carrots, a small onion, or more when
the flavour is much liked, and a bunch of parsley ; stew the real
very softly for an hour or rather more; then turn it, and let it stew
for nearly or quite another hour, or longer should it not be per-
fectly tender. “As none of our receipts have been tried with large,
coarse veal, the cooking must be regulated by that circumstance, and
longer time allowed should the meat be of more than moderate size.
Dish the joint, skim all the fat from the gravy, and strain it over the
meat; or kecp the joint hot while it is rapidly reduced to a richer
consistency. This is merely a plain family stew.
BOILED BREAST OF VEAL.
Let both the veal and the sweetbread be washed with exceeding
nicety, cover them with cold water, clear off the scum as it rises,
throw in a little salt, add a bunch of parsley, a large blade of mace,
and twenty white peppercorns; simmer the meat from an hour to
an hour and a quarter, and serve it covered with rich onion sauce.
Send it to table very hot. The sweetbread may be taken up when
half done, and curried, or made into cutlets, or stewed in brown
gravy. When onions are objected to, substitute white sauce and
å cheek of bacon for them, or parsley and butter, if preferred to it.
1 to 1 hour.


CHAP. XI.]
219
VEAL.
TO ROAST A BREAST OY VEAL.
Let the caul remain skewered over the joint till with within half
an hour of its being ready for table: place it at a moderate distance
from a brisk fire, baste it constantly, and in about an hour and a
half remove the caul, flour the joint, and let it brown. Dish and
pour melted butter over it, and serve it with a cut lemon, and any
other of the usual accompaniments to veal. It may be garnished
with fried balls of the forcemeat (No. 1, Chapter VIII.) about the
size of a walnut.
2 to 21 hours.
TO BONE A SHOULDER OF VEAL, MUTTON, OR LAMB.
Spread a clean cloth upon a table or
dresser, and lay the joint flat upon it, with
the skin downwards; with a sharp knife
cut off the flesh from the inner side nearly
down to the blade bone, of which detach the
edges first, then work the knife under it,
keeping it always close to the bone, and using
all possible precaution not to pierce the outer
Shoulder of Veal boned.
skin; when it is in every part separated from the flesh, loosen it
from the socket with the point of the knife, and remove it; or, with-
out dividing the two bones, cut round the joint until it is freed
entirely from the meat, and proceed to detach the second bone.
That of the knuckle is frequently left in, but for some dishes it is
necessary to take it out; in doing this, be careful not to tear the
skin. À most excellent grill may be made by leaving sufficient
meat for it upon the bones of a shoulder of mutton, when they are
removed from the joint: it will be found very superior to the
broiled blade-bone of a roust shoulder, which is so much liked by
many people.
STEWED SHOULDER OF VEAL.
(English Receipt.)
Bone a shoulder of veal, and strew the inside thickly with savoury
herbs minced small; season it well with salt, cayenne, and pounded
mace; and place on these a layer of ham cut in thin slices and freed
from rind and rust. Roll up the veal, and bind it tightly with a
fillet; roast it for an hour and a half, then simmer it gently in good
brown gravy for five hours; add forcemeat balls before it is dished;
skim the fat from the gravy, and serve it with the meat. This
Teceipt, for which we are indebted to a correspondent on whom we


220
MODERN COOKERY
[CHAP. XI
can depend, and which we have not therefore considered it necessary
to test ourselves, is for a joint which weighs ten pounds before it is
boned.
ROAST NECK OF VEAL.
The best end of the neck will make an excellent roast. A force-
meat may be inserted between the skin and the flesh, by first
separating them with a sharp knife; or the dish may be garnished
with the forcemeat in balls. From an hour and a half to two hours
will roast it. Pour melted butter over it when it is dished, and
serve it like other joints. Let it be floured when first laid to the
fire, kept constantly basted, and always at a sufficient distance to
prevent its being scorched.
1} to 2 hours.
For the forcemeat, see No. 1, Chapter VIII. From 8 to 10
minutes will fry the balls.
NECK OF VEAL A LA CRÊME.
(Or Au Béchamel.)
Take the best end of a neck of white and well-fed veal, detach
the flesh from the ends of the bones, cut them sufficiently short to
give the joint a good square form, fold and skewer the skin over
them, wrap a buttered paper round the meat, lay it at a moderate
distance from a clear fire, and keep it well basted with butter for an
hour and a quarter; then remove the paper and continue the
basting with a pint, or more, of béchamel or of rich white sauce, until
the veal is sufficiently roasted, and well encrusted with it. Serve
some béchamel under it in the dish, and send it very hot to table.
För variety, give the béchamel in making it a high flavour of
mushrooms, and add some small buttons stewed very white and
tender, to the portion reserved for saucing the joint.
2 to 2 hours.
VEAL GOOSE.
(City of London receipt.)
" This is made with the upper part of the flank of a loin of veal
(or sometimes that of the fillet) covered with a stuffing of sage and
onions, then rolled, and roasted or broiled. It is served with brown
gravy and applesauce, is extremely savoury, and has many
admirers.” We transcribe the exact receipt for this dish, which was
procured for us from a house in the city, which is famed for it. We
had it tested with the skin of the best end of a fine neck of real,
from which it was pared with something more than an inch depth


CHAP. .
221
VEAL.
of the flesh adhering to it. It was roasted one hour, and a iswered
extremely well. It is a convenient mode of dressing the flank of the
veal for eaters who do not object to the somewhat course savour of
the preparation. When the tendrons or gristles of a breast, or part
of a breast of veal, are required for a separate dish, the remaining
portion of the joint may be dressed in this way after the bones have
been taken out; or, without removing them, the stuffing may be
inserted under the skin.
KNUCKLE OF VEAL EN RAGOUT.
Cut in small thick slices the flesh of a knuckle of real, season it
with a little fine salt and white pepper, flour it lightly, and fry it in
butter to a pale brown, lay it into a very clean stewpan or saucepan,
and just cover it with boiling water; skim it clean, and add to it a
faggot of thyme and parsley, the white part of a head of celery, a
small quantity of cayenne, and a blade or two of mace. Stew it
very softly from an hour and three quarters to two hours and a
half. Thicken and enrich the gravy if needful with rice-flour and
mushroom catsup or Harvey's sauce, or with a large teaspoonful
of flour, mixed with a slice of butter, a little good store-sauce and a
glass of sherry or Madeira. Fried forcemeat balls of No. 1, Chapter
VIII. may be added at pleasure. With an additional quantity of
water, or of broth (made with the bones of the joint), a pint and
a half of young green peas stewed with the veal for an hour will
give an agreeable variety of this dish.
BOILED KNUCKLE OF VEAL.
After the joint has been trimmed and well washed, put it into a
vessel well adapted to it in size, for if it be very large, so much
water will be required that the veal will be deprived of its flavour;
it should be well covered with it, and very gently boiled until it is
perfectly tender in every part, but not so much done as to separate
from the bone. Clear off the scum with scrupulous care when the
simmering first commences, and throw in a small portion of salt;
as this, if sparingly used, will not redden the meat, and will other-
wise much improve it. Parsley and butter is usually both poured
over, and sent to table with a knuckle of veal, and boiled bacon
also should accompany it. From the sinewy nature of this joint,
it requires more than the usual time of cooking, a quarter of an
hour to the pound not being sufficient for it.
Veal 6 to 7 lbs.: 2 hours or more.
KNUCKLE OF VEAL WITH RICE.
Pour over a small knuckle of veal rather more than sufficicnt
water to cover it; bring it slowly to a boil; take off all the scum


222
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. XI
with great care, throw in a teaspoonful of salt, and when the joint
has simmered for about half an hour, throw in from eight to twelve
ounces of well washed rice, and stew the veal gently for an hour
and a half longer, or until both the meat and rice are perfectly
tender. A seasoning of cayenne and mace in fine powder with more
salt, should it be required, 'must be added twenty or thirty minutes
before they are served. For a superior stew good real broth may
be substituted for the water.
Veal, 6 lbs.; water, 3 to 4 pints; salt, 1 teaspoonful : 30 to 40
minutes. Rice, 8 to 12 oz: 11 hour.
Obs.-A quart or even more of full grown green peas added to
the veal as soon as the scum has been cleared off will make a most
excellent stew. It should be well seasoned with white pepper, and
the mace should be omitted. Two or three cucumbers, pared and
freed from the seeds, may be sliced into it when it boils, or four
or five young lettuces shred small may be added instead. Green
onions also, when they are liked, may be used to give it flavour.
SMALL PAIN DE VEAU, OR, VEAL CAKE.
Chop separately and very fine, a pound and a quarter of veal
quite free from fat and skin, and six ounces of beef kidney-suet ;
add a teaspoonful of salt, a full third as much of white pepper and
of inace or nutmeg, with the grated rind of half a lemon, and turn
the whole well together with the chopping-knife until it is
thoroughly mixed; then press it smoothly into a small round baking
dish, and send it to a moderate oven for an hour and a quarter.
Lift it into a clean hot dish, and serve it plain, or with a little
brown gravy in a tureen. Three ounces of the lean of a boiled ham
minced small, will very much improve this cake, of which the
size can pe increased at will, and proportionate time allowed for
dressing it. If baked in a hot oven, the meat will shrink to half its
proper size, and be very dry. When done, it should be of a fine
light brown, and like a cake in appearance.
Veal, 14 lb. ; beef-suet, 6 oz.; salt, 1 teaspoonful; pepper and
mace, or nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful each ; rind of lemon; ham (when
added) 3 oz.; baked 11 hour.
BORDYKE VEAL CAKE.
(Good.)
Take a pound and a half of veal perfectly clear of fat and skin,
and eight ounces of the nicest striped bacon; chop them separately,
then mix them well together with the grated rind of a small lemon,
half a teaspoonful of salt, a fourth as much of cayenne, the third part
of a nutmeg grated, and a half-teaspoonful of freshly pounded mace


CHAP. XI.]
223
VEAL.
When it is pressed into the dish, lèt it be somewhat higher in the
centre than at the edge; and whether to be served hot or cold, lift
it out as soon as it comes from the oven, and place it on a strainer
that the fat may drain from it; it will keep many days if the under
side be dry. The bacon should be weighed after the rind, and any
rust it may exhibit, have been trimmed from it. This cake is ex-
cellent cold, better indeed than the preceding one; but slices of
either, if preferred hot, may be warmed through in a Dutch oven, or
on the gridiron, or in a few spoonsful of gravy. The same in-
gredients made into small cakes, well floured, and slowly fried from
twelve to fifteen minutes, then served with gravy made in the pan as
for cutlets, will be found extremely good.
Veal, 14 lb.; striped bacon, 8 oz.; salt and mace, 1 teaspoonful
each ; rind of lemon, 1; third of 1 nutmeg; cayenne, 4 grains ;
baked 11 to 11 hour.
FRICANDEAU OF VEAL. (ENTRÉE).
French cooks always prefer for this dish, which is a common one
in their own country, that part of the fillet to which the fat or
udder is attached ;* but the flesh of the finer part of the neck or
loin, raised clear from the bones, may be made to answer the purpose
nearly or quite as well, and often much more conveniently, as the
meat with us is not divided for sale as in France; and to purchase
the entire fillet for the sake of the fricandeau would render it ex-
ceedingly expensive. Lay the veal flat upon a table or dresser,
with the skin uppermost, and endeavour, with one stroke of an
exceedingly sharp knife, to clear this off, and to leave the surface of
the meat extremely smooth ; next lard it thickly with small lardoons,
as directed for a pheasant (page 181), and make one or two in-
cisions in the underside with the point of a knife, that it may the
better imbibe the flavour of the seasonings. Take a stewpan, of
sufficient size to hold the fricandeau, and the proper quantity of
vegetables compactly arranged, without much room being left round
the meat. Put into it a couple of lirge carrots, cut in thick slices,
two onions of moderate size, two or three roots of parsley, three bay
leaves, two small blades of mace, a branch or two of lemon thyme,
and a little cayenne, or a saltspoonful of white peppercorns. Raise
these high in the centre of the stewpan, so as to support the meat,
and prevent its touching the gravy. Cover them with slices of very
fat bacon, and place the fricandeau gently on them; then pour in as
much good veal broth, or stock, as will nearly cover the vegetables
without reaching to the veal. A calf's foot, split in two, may with
advantage be laid under them in the first instance. Stew the
fricandeau very gently for upwards of three hours, or until it is
found to be extremely tender when probed with a fine skewer or a
larding-pin. Plenty of live embers must then be put on the lid of
• Called by them the noi.r.


224
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. II.
the stewpan for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour, to render the
lardoons firm. Lift out the fricandeau and keep it hot; strain and
reduce the gravy very quickly, after having skimmed off every
particle of fat; glaze the veal, and serve it on a ragout of sorrel,
cucumbers, or spinach. This, though rather an elaborate receipt.
is the best we can offer to the reader for a dish, which is now almost
as fashionable with us as it is common on the Continent. Some
English cook; have a very summary method of preparing it; they
merely lard and boil the veal until they can “cut it with a spoon,
then glaze and serve it with “brown gravy in the dish." This
may be very tolerable eating, but it will bear small resemblance
to the French fricandeau.
3 to 4 hours
SPRING-STEW OF VEAL.
Cut two pound of veal, free from fat, into small half-inch thick
cutlets; flour them well, and fry them in butter with two small
cucumbers sliced, sprinkled with pepper, and floured, one moderate
sized lettuce, and twenty-four green gooseberries cut open length-
wise and seeded. When the whole is nicely browned, lift it into a
thick saucepan, and pour gradually into the pan half pint, or
rather more, of boiling water, broth, or gravy. Add as much salt
and pepper as it requires. Give it a minute's simmer, and pour it
over the meat, shaking it well round the pan as this is done. Let
the veal stew gently from three quarters of an hour to an hour. A
bunch of green onions cut small may be added to the other vege-
tables if liked; and the veal will eat better, if slightly seasoned with
salt and pepper before it is foured; a portion of fat can be left on it
if preferred.
Veal 2 lbs.; cucumbers, 2; lettuce, 1; green gooseberries, 24;
water or broth, pint or more: to 1 hour.
NORMAN HARRICO.
Brown in a stewpan or fry lightly, after having sprinkled them
with pepper, salt, and flour, from two to three pounds of real
cutlets. If taken from the neck or loin, chop the bones very short,
and trim away the greater portion of the fat. Arrange them as flat
as they can be in a saucepan ; give a pint of water a boil in the pan
in which they have been browned, and pour it on them ; add a small
faggot of parsley, and, should the flavour be liked, one of green
onions also. Let the meat simmer softly for half an hour; then
cover it with small new potatoes which have had a single boil in
water, give the saucepan a shake, and let the harrico stew very
gently for another half hour, or until the potatoes are quite done,
and the veal is tender. When the cutlets are thick and the
potatoes approaching their full size, more time will be required for
the meat, and the vegetables may be at once divided : if extremely


CHAP XI.]
225
VEAL.
young they will need the previous boil. Before the harrico is served,
skim the fat from it, and add salt and pepper should it not be
sufficiently seasoned. A few bits of lean ham, or shoulder of bacon
browned with the veal, will much improve this dish, and for some
tastes, a little acid will render it more agreeable. Very delicate pork
chops may be dressed in the same way. A cutlet taken from the
fillet and freed from fat and skin, answers best for this dish.
Additional vegetables, cooked apart, can be added to it after it is
dished. Peas boiled very green and well drained, or young carrots
sliced and stewed tender in butter, are both well suited to it.
Veal, 2 to 3 lbs.; water (or gravy), 1 pint; new potatoes 1} to 2
lbs.; faggot, parsley, and green onions: 1 hour or more.
PLAIN VEAL CUTLETS.
Take them if possible free from bone, and after having trimmed
them into proper shape, beat them with a cutlet-bat or paste-roller
until the fibre of the meat is thoroughly broken; flour them well to
prevent the escape of the gravy, and fry them from twelve to fifteen
minutes over a fire which is not sufficiently fierce to burn them before
they are quite cooked through : they should be of a fine amber brown,
and perfectly done. Lift them into a hot dish, pour the fat from the
pan, throw in a slice of fresh butter, and when it is melted, stir or
dredge in a dessertspoonful of flour; keep these shaken until they
are well-coloured, then pour gradually to them a cup of gravy or of
boiling water; add pepper, salt, a little lemon-pickle or juice, give
the whole a boil, and pour it over the cutlets : a few forcemeat balls
fried and served with them, is usually a very acceptable addition to
this dish, even when it is garnished or accompanied with rashers of
ham or bacon. A morsel of glaze, or of the jelly of roast meat, should
when at hand be added to the sauce, which a little mushroom powder
would further improve : mushroom sauce, indeed, is considered by
many epicures, as indispensable with veal cutlets. We have recom-
mended in this one instance that the meat should be thoroughly
beaten, because we find that the veal is wonderfully improved by the
process, which, however, we still deprecate for other meat.
12 to 15 minutes.
VEAL CUTLETS A L'INDIENNE, OR INDIAN FASHION. (ENTRÉE.)
Mix well together four ounces of very fine stale bread-crumbs, a
teaspoonful of salt, and a tablespoonful of the best currie powder.
Cut down into small well-shaped cutlets or collops, two pounds of
veal free from fat, skin, or bone ; beat the slices flat, and dip them
first into some beaten egg-yolks, and then into the soned crumbs ;
moisten them again with egg, and pass them a second time through
bread-crumbs. When all are ready, fry them in three or four ounces
of bitter over a moderate fire, from twelve to fourteen minutes. For


226
[CHAP. IL
MODERN COOKERY.
bauce, mix smoothly with a knife, a teaspoonful of flour and an equal
quantity of currie-powder, with a small slice of butter; shake these
in the pan for about five minutes, pour to them a cup of gravy or
boiling water, add salt and cayenne if required and the strained juice
of half a lemon; simmer the whole till well flavoured, and pour it
round the cutlets. A better plan is, to have some good currie sauce
ready prepared to send to table with this dish; which may likewise
be served with only well-made common cutlet gravy, from the pan,
when much of the pungent flavour of the currie-powder is not
desired.
Bread-crumbs, 4 oz. ; salt, 1 teaspoonful; currie powder, 1 table-
spoonful ; veal, 2 lbs. : 12 to 14 minutes.
Obs.—These cutlets may be broiled ; they should then be well
beaten first, and dipped into clarified butter instead of egg before they
are passed through the curried seasoning.
VEAL CUTLETS, OR COLLOPS, A LA FRANÇAISE. (ENTRÉE.)
Cut the veal into small, thin, round collops of equal size, arrange
them evenly in a sauté-pan, or in a small frying-pan, and sprinkle a
little fine salt, white pepper, and grated nutmeg on them. Clarify,
or merely dissolve in a clean saucepan with a gentle degree of heat,
an ounce or two of good butter, and pour it equally over the meat.
Set the pan aside until the dinner-hour, then fry the collops over a
clear fire, and when they are lightly browned, which will be in from
four to five minutes, lift them into a hot dish, and sauce them with a
little Espagnole, or with a gravy made quickly in the pan, and fla-
voured with lemon-juice and cayenne. They are excellent even
without any sauce.
3 to 4 minutes.
SCOTCH COLLOPS. (ENTRÉE.)
Prepare the veal as for the preceding receipt, but dip the collops
into beaten egg and seasoned bread-crumbs, and fry them directly in
good butter, over a moderate fire, of a light golden brown; drain
them well in lifting them from the pan, and sauce them like the
collops à la Française.
VEAL CUTLETS A LA MODE DE LONDRES, OR, LONDON
FASHION. (ENTRÉE.)
Raise the flesh entire from the upper side of the best end of a neck
of veal, free it from the skin, and from the greater portion of the fat,
slice it equally into cutlets little more than a quarter of an inch thick,
brush them with egg, strew them with fine bread-crumbs, and fry
them of a light brown. Toast, or fry apart as many small slices of
bacon as there are cutlets, and let them be trimmed nearly to the


CHAP XI.]
227
VEAL.
same shape; place them alternately on their edges round the inside
of a hot dish (so as to form a sort of chain), and pour into the middle
some rich gravy made in the pan, and very slightly flavoured with
eschalot; or substitute for this some good brown mushroom sauce.
Savoury herbs, grated lemon-rind, nutmeg or mace, salt, and white
pepper or cayenne, should be mixed with the bread-crumbs, in the
proportions directed at page 213, for cutlets of calf's head; or they
may be varied at pleasure. A cheek of bacon is best adapted to this
dish.
SWEETBREADS SIMPLY DRESSED. (ENTRÉE.)
In whatever way sweetbreads are dressed, they should first be well
soaked in lukewarm water, then thrown into boiling water to blanch
them, as it is called, and to render them firm. If lifted out after they
have boiled from five to ten minutes according to their size, and laid
immediately into fresh spring water to cool, their colour will be the
better preserved. They may then be gently stewed for three quarters
of an hour in veal gravy, which with the usual additions of cream,
lemon, and egg-yolks, may be converted into a fricassee sauce for
them when they are done; or they may be lifted from it, glazed, and
served with good Spanish gravy; or, the glazing being omitted, they
may be sauced with the sharp Maître d'Hotel sauce of page 117
They may also be simply floured, and roasted in a Dutch oven, being
often basted with butter, and frequently turned. A full sized sweet-
bread, after having been blanched, will require quite three quarters
of an hour to dress it.
Blanched 5 to 10 minutes. Stewed hour or more.
SWEETBREAD CUTLETS. (ENTRÉE.)
Boil the sweetbreads for half an hour in water or veal broth, and
when they are perfectly cold, cut them into slices of equal thickness,
brush them with yolk of egg, and dip them into very fine bread-
crumbs seasoned with salt, cayenne, grated lemon-rind, and mace;
fry them in butter of a fine light brown, arrange them in a dish
placing them high in the centre, and pour under them a gravy made
in the pan, thickened with mushroom powder and flavoured with,
lemon-juice; or, in lieu of this, sauce them with some rich brown
gravy, to which a glass of sherry or Madeira has been added. When
it can be done conveniently, take as many slices of a cold boiled
tongue as there are sweetbread cutlets; pare the rind from them,
trim them into good shape, and dress them with the sweetbreads,
after they have been egged and seasoned in the same way; and place
each cutlet upon a slice of tongue when they are dished. For variety,
substitute croutons of fried bread stamped out to the size of the cutlets
with a round or fluted paste or cake cutter. The crumb of a stale
loaf, very evenly sliced, is best for the purpose.


228
[CHAP. XL
MODERN COOKERY.
STEWED calf's FEET.
(Cheap and Good.)
This is an excellent family dish, highly nutritious, and often very
inexpensive, as the feet during the summer are usually sold at a low
rate. Wash them with nicety, divide them at the joint, and split the
claws; arrange them closely in a thick stewpan or saucepan, and pour
in as much cold water as will cover them about half an inch : three
pints will be sufficient for a couple of large feet. When broth or
stock is at hand, it is good economy to substitute it for the water, as
by this means a portion of strong and well-flavoured jellied grary
will be obtained for general use, the full quantity not being needed
as sauce for the feet. The whole preparation will be much improved
by laying a thick slice of the lean of an unboiled ham, knuckle of
bacon, hung beef, or the end of a dried tongue, at the bottom of the
pan, before the other ingredients are added ; or, when none of these
are at hand, by supplying the deficiency with a few bits of lean beef
or veal : the feet being of themselves insipid, will be much more
palatable with one or the other of these additions. Throw in from
half to three quarters of a teaspoonful of salt when they begin to boil,
and after the scum has been all cleared off, add a few branches of
parsley, a little celery, one small onion or more, stuck with half a
dozen cloves, a carrot or two, a large blade of mace, and twenty
corns of whole pepper ; stew them softly until the flesh will part
entirely from the bones; take it from them, strain part of the gravy,
and skim off all the fat, flavour it with catsup or any other store
sauce, and thicken it, when it boils, with arrowroot or flour and
butter; put in the flesh of the feet, and serve the dish as soon as the
whole is very hot. A glass of wine, a little lemon juice, and a few
forcemeat balls, will convert this into a very superior stew; a handful
of mushroom-buttons also simmered in it for half an hour before it
is dished, will vary it agrecably.
Calf's feet (large), 2; water, 3 pints; salt, 1 to 1 teaspoonful;
onions, 1 to 3; cloves, 6 ; peppercorns, 20; mace, large blade; little
celery and parsley ; carrots, 1 or 2: stewed softly, 21 to 31 hours.
Mushroom catsup, 1 tablespoonful; flour, or arrowroot, 1 large
teaspooonful; butter, 1 to 2 oz. Cayenne, to taste
CALF'S LIVER STOVED, or ste'ED.
From three to four pounds of the best part of the liver will be
sufficient for a dish of moderate size. First lard it quite through by
the directions of page 181, with large lardoons, rolled in a seasoning
of spice, and of savoury herbs very finely minced ; then lay it into a
*** 21 or saucepan just fitted to its size, and pour in about half a


CHAP. XI.]
229
VEAL.
pint of broth or gravy; heat it very gently, and throw in, when it
begins to simmer, a sliced carrot, a small onion cut in two, a small
bunch of parsley, and a blade of mace; stew the liver as softly as
possible over a very slow fire from two hours and a half to three
hours; thicken the gravy with a little brown roux (see page 107),
or with a dessertspoonful of browned flour; add a couple of glasses
of white wine, and a little spice if needed, and serve it very hot, after
having taken out the herbs and vegetable.
The liver may be stewed without being larded ; it may likew be
browned all over in a carefully made roux, before the gravy is
poured to it: this must then be made to boil, and be added in small
portions, the stewpan being well shaken round as each is thrown in.
The wine can be altogether omitted ; or a wineglassful of port mixed
with a little lemon-juice, may take the place of sherry. After the
liver has been wiped very dry, minced herbs may be strewed thickly
over it before it is laid into the stewpan; and it may be served in its
own gravy, or with a sauce piquante.
Liver, 3 to 4 lbs : 2 to 3 hours
TO ROAST CALFS LIVER.
Take the whole or part of a fine white sound liver, and either lard
it as a fricandeau upon the surface, or with large strips of highly-
seasoned bacon in the inside (see Larding, page 181); or should
either of these modes be objected to, merely wrap it in a well-
buttered paper, and roast it from an hour to an hour and a quarter,
at a moderate distance from a clear fire, keeping it constantly basted.
Remove the paper, and froth the liver well from ten to fifteen
minutes before it is done. It should be served with a sauce of some
piquancy, such as a poirrade, or brown eschalot, in addition to some
good gravy. French cooks steep the liver over-night in vinegar,
with a sliced onion and branches of savoury herbs laid over it: this
whitens and renders it firm. As an economical mode, some small
bits of the liver may be trimmed off, floured, and lightly fried with
a sliced onion, and stewed down for gravy in three quarters of a pint
of water which has been poured into the pan, with the addition of a
few peppercorns, and a small bunch of herbs.
A seasoning of salt
must not be forgotten, and a little lemon pickle, or juice, would
generally be considered an improvement.
1 to l; hour.
BLANQUETTE OF VEAL OR LAMB, WITH MUSHROOMS.
(ENTRÉE.)
Slice very thin the white part of some cold vcal, divide and trim
it into scallops not larger than a shilling, and lay it into a clean
saucepan or stewpan. Wipe with a bit of new flannel and a few


230
[CHAP. ,
MODERN COOKERY.
..
grains of salt, from a quarter to half a pint of mushroom-buttons,
and slice them into a little butter which just begins to simmer; stew
them in it from twelve to fifteen minutes, without allowing them to
take the slightest colour; then lift them out and lay them on the
veal. Pour boiling to them a pint of sauce tournée (see page 108);
let the blanquette remain near, but not close to the fire for awhile :
bring it nearer, heat it slowly, and when it is on the point of boiling
mix a spoonful or two of the sauce from it with the well beaten
yolks of four fresh eggs; stir them to the remainder; add the
strained juice of half a small lemon ; shake the saucepan above
the fire until the sauce is just set, and serve the blanquette
instantly.
Cold veal, 4 lb.; mushrooms, 1 to } pint: stewed in 1} oz. butter,
12 to 15 minutes. Sauce tournée, or thickened veal gravy, 1 pint;
yolks of eggs, 4; lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful.
Obs.-Any white meat may be served en blanquette. The mush.
rooms are not indispensable for it, but they are always a great
improvement. White sauce substituted for the thickened veal gravy
will at once convert this dish into an inexpensive English fricassee
Mace, salt, and cayenne, must be added to either preparation, should
it require seasoning.
MINCED VEAL.
When there is neither gravy nor broth at hand, the bones and
trimmings of the meat must be boiled down to furnish what is
required for the mince. As cold meat is very light in weight, a
pound of the white part of the veal will be sufficient for a dish, and
for this quantity a pint of gravy will be needed. Break down the
bones of the joint well, add the trimmings of the meat, a small bunch
of savoury herbs, a slice or two of carrot or of celery, a blade of
mace, a few white peppercorns, and a bit or two of lean ham, boiled,
or unboiled if it can be had, as either will improve the flavour of the
mince. Pour to these a pint and a half of water, and stew them
gently for a couple of hours; then strain off the gravy, let it cool,
and clear it entirely from the fat. Cut the white part of the veal
small with a very sharp knife, after all the gristle and brown edges
have been trimmed away. Some persons like a portion of fat
minced with it, others object to the addition altogether. Thicken
the gravy with a teaspoonful and a half of four smoothly mixed
with a small slice of butter, season the veal with a saltspoonful or
more of salt, and half as much white pepper and grated nutmeg, or
pounded mace; add the lightly-grated rind of half a small lemon ;
mix the whole well, put it into the gravy, and heat it thoroughly by
the side of the fire without allowing it to boil ; serve it with pale
toasted sippets in and round the dish. A spoonful or two of cream
is always an improvement to this mince.


CHAP. XI.]
231
VEAL.
MINCED VEAL AND OYSTERS.
The most elegant mode of preparing this dish is to mince about a
pound of the whitest part of the inside of a cold roast fillet or loin of
veal, to heat it without allowing it to boil, in a pint of rich white
sauce, or béchamel, and to mix with it at the moment of serving,
three dozens of small oysters ready bearded, and plumped in their
own strained liquor, which is also to be added to the mince; the
requisite quantity of salt, cayenne, and mace should be sprinkled
over the veal before it is put into the sauce. Garnish the dish with
pale fried sippets of bread, or with fleurons * of brioche, or of puff-
paste. Nearly half a pint of mushrooms minced, and stewed white
in a little butter, may be mixed with the veal instead of the oysters;
or should they be very small they may be added to it whole: from
ten to twelve minutes will be sufficient to make them tender. Balls
of delicately fried oyster-forcemeat laid round the dish will give
another good variety of it.
Veal minced, 1 lb.; white sauce, 1 pint; oysters, 3 dozen, with their
liquor; or mushrooms, i pint, stewed in butter 10 to 12 minutes.
1
VEAL-SYDNEY. (GOOD.)
Pour boiling on an ounce and a half of fine bread-crumbs nearly
half a pint of good veal stock or gravy, and let them stand till cool;
mix with them then, two ounces of beef-suet shred very small, half
a pound of cold roast veal carefully trimmed from the brown edges,
skin, and fat, and finely minced; the grated rind of half a lemon,
nearly a teaspoonful of salt, a little cayenne, the third of a tea-
spoonful of mace or nutmeg, and four well-beaten eggs. Whisk up
the whole well together, put it into a buttered dish, and bake it from
three quarters of an hour to an hour. Cream may be used instead
of gravy when more convenient, but this last will give the better
flavour. A little clarified butter put into the dish before the other
ingredients are poured in will be an improvement.
Bread-crumbs, 14 oz.; gravy or cream, nearly 1 pint; beef-suct,
2 oz.; cold veal, o lb.; rind of į lemon ; salt, small teaspoonful;
third as much mace and nutmeg ; little cayenne; eggs, 4 large or
5 small : {to 1 hour.
FRICASSEED VEAL.
Divide into small, thick, handsome slices of equal size, about a
couple of pounds of veal, quite free from fat, bone, and skin ; dissolve
a couple of ounces of butter in a wide stewpan, and just as it begins
to boil lay in the veal, and shake it over the fire until it is quite firm
* Fleurons, flowers, or flower-like figures, cut out with tin shapes.


232
(CIIAP. XL
MODERN COOKERY.
on both sides, but do not allow it to take the slightest colour. Stir
in a tablespoonful of flour, and when it is well mixed with the
cutlets, pour gradually to them, shaking the pan often, sufficient
boiling veal-gravy to almost cover them. Stew them gently from
fifteen to sixteen minutes, or longer should they not be perfectly
tender. Add a flavouring of mace, some salt, a quarter-pint of rich
cream, a couple of egg-yolks, and a little lemon-juice, observing,
when the last are added, the directions given for a blanquette of veal,
page 229. Strips of lemon-rind can be stewed in the gravy at
pleasure. Two or three dozens of mushroom-buttons, added twenty
minutes before it is served, will much improve this fricassée.
SMALL ENTRÉES OF SWEETBREADS, CALF'S BRAINS AND EARS,
&c. &c.
For tables of which the service consists rather of a great variety of
light dishes (entrées) than of substantial English fare, the ears,
brains, sweet breads, gristles or tendrons, and the tail of a calf, may be
dressed in many different ways to supply them; but they require a
really good style of cookery, and many adjuncts to render them
available for the purpose, as they do not possess much decided
natural flavour, and their insipidity would be apt to tire if it were
not relieved by the mode of preparing them. We shall give some
few especial receipts for them in the chapter on foreign cookery,
should sufficient space remain open for us to admit them; and insert
here only such slight general directions as may suffice for preparing
some of them in a simple form; as they are not in reality of first-
rate importance. All of them may be served with good curried, or
highly-tlavoured tomato-sauce, after having been stewed in strong
broth or gravy:
The brains and sweetbreads cut into small dice or
scallops, and mixed with béchamel, or with common white sauce, may
be used to fill small vol-au-vents, or patty cases. The ears are
usually filled in part with forcemeat, or a preparation of the brains,
and placed upright when dished ; and the upper part is cut into
narrow fringe-like strips. For “ Tendrons de l'eau," and “Breast of
veal rolled and stewed,” the reader is referred to Chapter XXXIV


CHAP. XII.]
233
MUTTON.
CHAPTER XIL
Mutton.
No.
1. Leg.
2. Best End of Loin.
3. Chump End of Loin.
4. Neck, Best End.
5. Neck, Scrag End.
Xo.
6. Shoulder.
7. Breast.
A Saddle is the Two Loins.
A Chine, the Two Necks.
.
Mutton is best suited for table in autumn, winter, and early spring. It is not
considered quite so good when grass-lamb is in full season, nor during the sultry
months of summer.
TO CHOOSE MUTTON.
The best mutton is small-boned, plump, finely-grained, and short-
legged; the lean of a dark, rather than of a bright hue, and the fat
white and clear: when this is yellow, the meat is rank, and of bad
quality. Mutton is not considered by experienced judges to be in
perfection until it is nearly or quite five years old; but to avoid the
additional expense of feeding the animal so long, it is commonly
brought into the market at three years old. The leg and the loin
are the superior joints; and the preference would probably be given
more frequently to the latter, but for the superabundance of its fat,
which renders it a not very economical dish. The haunch consists of
the leg and the part of the loin adjoining it ; the saddle, of the two
loins together, or of the undivided back of the sheep: these last are


234
[CHAP. XII.
MODERN COOKERY.
one.
always roasted, and are served usually at good tables, or for com-
pany-dinners, instead of the smaller joints. The shoulder, dressed in
the ordinary way, is not very highly esteemed, but when boned,
rolled, and filled with forcemeat, it is of more presentable appear.
ance, and to many tastes, far better eating ; though some persons
prefer it in its natural form, accompanied by stewed onions. It is
occasionally boiled or stewed, and covered with rich onion sauce
The flesh of that part of the neck which is commonly called the
“ best end," or the back ribs, and which adjoins the loin, is the most
succulent and tender portion of the sheep, and makes an excellent
small roast, and is extremely good served as cutlets, after being
divested of the superabundant fat. It is likewise very frequently
boiled; but so cooked it makes but an unsightly and insipid dish,
though an idea prevails in this country that it is a very wholesome
Cutlets (or chops, as the butchers term them) are commonly
taken from the loin, and are generally charged at a higher rate than
joints of mutton, in consequence, probably, of the constant demand
for them. They may likewise be cut from the saddle, but will then
be very large, and of no better quality than when the two loins which
form the saddle are divided in the usual way, though a certain
degree of fashion has of late been accorded to them. The scrag or
that part of it which joins the head, is seldom used for any other
purpose than making broth, and should be taken off before the joint
is dressed. Cutlets from the thick end of the loin are commonly
preferred to any others, but they are frequently taken likewise from
the best end of the neck (sometimes called the back-ribs) and from
the middle of the leg. Mutton kidneys are dressed in various ways,
and are excellent in many. The trotters and the head of a sheep
may be converted into very good dishes, but they are scarcely worth
the trouble which is required to render them palatable. The loin
and the leg are occasionally cured and smoked like hams or bacon.
..
TO ROAST A HAUNCH OF MUTTON. +
This joint should be well kept, and when the larder-accommodations
of a house not are good, the butcher should be requested to hang it
the proper time. Roast it carefully at a large sound fire, and let it
remain at a considerable distance for at least a couple of hours; then
draw it nearer, but never sufficiently so to burn or injure the fat.
Keep it constantly basted ; flour it soon after it is laid to the fire,
instead of frothing it, as this latter mode is not generally relished,
though fashion is in its favour. In from three and a half to four
hours, the haunch will be done, and it will require something less of
• Many years since, these "saddle.back" cutlets were supplied to us by a
country butcher, and though of very fine South Down mutton, had no particular
importance attached to them, nor were they considered as remarkably new.
# We recommend Liebeg's directions for roasting (page 171), to be applied
here, and for the joints which follow.


CHAP. XII.]
235
MUTTON.
time when not kept back at first, as we have advised. Serve it with
a good Espagnole, or with plain mutton-gravy and currant-jelly.
This joint, when the meat is of very fine quality, may be dressed and
served exactly like venison.
31 to 4 hours. 5 hours or more by the slow method.
ROAST SADDLE OF MUTTON.
one.
This is an excellent joint, though not considered a very economical
It is usual for the butcher to raise the skin from it before it is
sent in, and to skewer it on again, that in the roasting the juices of
the meat may be better preserved, and the fat prevented from taking
too much colour, as this should be but delicately browned. In less
than half an hour before the mutton is done, remove the skin, and
flour the joint lightly after having basted it well. Our own great
objection to frothed meat would lead us to recommend that the skin
should be taken off half an hour earlier, and that the joint should be
kept at sufficient distance from the fire to prevent the possibility of
the fat being burned ; and that something more of time should be
allowed for the roasting. With constant basting, great care, and good
management, the cook may always ensure the proper appearance of
this, or of any other joint (except, perhaps, of a haunch of venison)
without having recourse to papering or pasting, or even to replacing
the skin ; but when unremitted attention cannot be given to this one
part of the dinner, it is advisable to take all precautions that can
secure it from being spoiled.
2 to 2 hours. More if very large.
TO ROAST A LEG OF MUTTON.
In a cool and airy larder a leg of mutton will hang many days
with advantage, if the kernel be taken out, and the flap wiped very
dry when it is first brought in ; and it is never tender when freshly
killed : in warm weather it should be well dredged with pepper to
preserve it from the flies. If washed before it is put upon the spit, it
should be wiped as dry as possible afterwards, and well floured soon
after it is laid to the fire. When the excellence of the joint is more
regarded than the expense of fuel, it should be roasted by what we
have denominated the slow method ; that is to say, it should be kept
at a considerable distance from the fire, and remain at it four hours
instead of two: it may be drawn nearer for the last twenty or thirty
minutes to give it colour. The gravy will flow from it in great
abundance when it is cut, and the meat will be very superior to that
roasted in the usual way. When this plan is not pursued, the mutton
should still be kept quite a foot from the fire until it is heated
through, and never brought sufficiently near to scorch or to herden
any part. It should be constantly basted with its own fat, for if this
be neglected, all other precautions will fail to ensure a good roast :


236
[CHAP. XIL
MODERN COOKERY.
CH
th
it
and after it is dished a little fine salt should be sprinkled lightly on
it, and a spoonful or two of boiling water ladled over. This is the
most palatable mode of serving it, but it may be frothed when it is
preferred so, though we would rather recommend that the flour
should be dredged on in the first instance, as it then prevents the
juices of the meat from escaping, and forms a savoury coating to it;
while the raw taste which it so often retains with mere frothing is to
many eaters especially objectionable.
Leg of mutton, 7 to lbs. : slow method 4 hours, common method
13 to 2 hours.
Obs.- Many common cooks injure their roasts exceedingly by
pouring abundance of hot water over them, to make grury” as
they call it. This should never be done. The use of any portion
may, perhaps, be rationally objected to; but when the joint is not
carefully cooked it is sometimes very dry without it. A few spoons-
ful of Liebeg's extract of meat will supply excellent gravy for this,
or for any other dish of roasted meat.
BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON,
Take out the bone as far as the first joint by the directions of the
following receipt; roll some large strips of bacon in a seasoning of
mixed spice, and of savoury herbs minced extremely fine or dried and
reduced to powder, and with these lard the inside of the boned
portion of the joint; or fill the cavity with forcemeat highly sea-
soned with eschalot or garlic. Sew up the meat, and place it in a
braising-pan or ham-kettle nearly of its size, with slices of bacon
under and over it, two or three onions, four or five carrots, two bay
leaves, a large bunch of savoury herbs, a few bones, or bits of un-
dressed mutton or veal, and about three quarters of a pint of gravy.
Stew the meat as softly as possible from four to five hours, and keep
live embers on the pan (or, as this mode of cooking is not general
in England, set the mutton, if it can be done conveniently, into a
moderately-heated oven, after having luted the edges of the vessel in
which it is arranged with a bit of coarse paste) ; lift it out, strain the
gravy, reduce it quickly to glaze, and brush the meat with it; or
merely strain, free it from fat, and pour it over the mutton. White
beans (haricots blancs), boiled tender and well drained, or a mild
ragout of garlic or eschalots, may be laid in the dish under it. The
joint can be braised equally well without any part of it being boned.
3 to 5 hours
LEG OF MUTTON BONED AND FORCED.
Select for this dish a joint of South Down or of any other delicate-
sized mutton, which has been kept sufficiently long to render it very
tender. Lay it on a clean cloth spread upon a table, and turn the
underside upwards With a sharp-edged boning-knife cut through


CHAP XII.]
237 ,
MUTTON.
the middle of the skin, from the knuckle to the first joint, and raise
it from the flesh on the side along which the bone runs, until the
knife is just above it, then cut through the flesh down to the bone ;
work the knife round it in every part till you reach the socket; next
remove the flat bone from the large end of the joint, and pass the
knife freely round the remaining one, as it is not needful to take it
out clear of the meat; when you again reach the middle joint, loosen
the skin round it with great care, and the two bones can then be
drawn out without being divided. This being done, fill the cavities
with the forcemeat, No. 1. (Chapter VIII.), adding to it a somewhat
high seasoning of eschalot, garlic, or onion; or cut out with the bone,
nearly a pound of the inside of the mutton, chop it fine with six
ounces of delicate striped bacon, and mix with it thoroughly three
quarters of an ounce of parsley, and half as much of thyme and
winter savoury, all minced extremely small; a half teaspoonful of
pepper (or a third as much of cayenne); the same of mace, salt, and
nutmeg, and either the grated rind of a small lemon, or four eschalots
finely shred. When the lower part of the leg is filled, sew the skin
neatly together where it has been cut open, and tie the knuckle
round tiglitly, to prevent the escape of the gravy. Replace the flat
bone at the large end, and with a long needle and twine, draw the
edges of the meat together over it. If it can be done conveniently,
it is better to roast the mutton thus prepared in a cradle spit or upon
a bottle-jack, with the knuckle downwards. Place it at first far from
the fire, and keep it constantly basted. It will require nearly or
quite three hours' roasting. Remove the twine before it is served, and
send it very hot to table with some rich brown gravy
A BOILED LEG OF MUTTON WITH TONGUE AND TURNIPS.
(An excellent Receipt.)
Trim into handsome form a well-kept, but perfectly sweet leg of
mutton, of middling weight; wash, but do not soak it; lay it into a
vessel as nearly of its size as convenient, and pour in rather more
than sufficient cold water* to cover it; set it over a good fire, and
when it begins to boil take off the scum, and continue to do so until
no more appears; throw in a tablespoonful of salt (after the first
skimming), which will assist to bring it to the surface, and as soon
as the liquor is clear, add two moderate-sized onions stuck with a
dozen cloves, a large faggot of parsley, thyme, and winter savoury,
and four or five large carrots, and half an hour afterwards as many
* We have left this receipt unaltered, instead of applying to it Baron Liebeg's
directions for his improved method of boiling meat, because his objections to the
immersion of the joint in cold water are partially obviated, by its being placed
immediately over a sound fire, and heated quickly; and the mutton is very goord
this dressed,


238
[CHAP. XII.
MODERN COOKERY.
turnips. Draw the pan to the side of the fire, and let the mutton be
simmered gently from two hours to two and a half, from the time of
its first beginning to boil. Serve it with caper, brown cucumber, or
oyster sauce. If stewed softly, as we have directed, the mutton will
be found excellent dressed thus; otherwise, it will but resemble the
unpalatable and ragged-looking joints of fast-boiled meat, so con-
stantly sent to table by common English cooks. Any undressed
bones of veal, mutton, or beef, boiled with the joint will improve it
much, and the liquor will then make excellent soup or bouillon.
A small smoked ox-tongue boiled very tender will generally be
much approved as an accompaniment to the mutton, though it is out
of the usual course to serve them together : innovation on established
usages is, however, sometimes to be recommended.
The tongue
should be garnished with well-prepared mashed turnips, moulded
with a tablespoon into the form of a half-egg, and sent to table as hot
as possible; or the turnips may be dished apart
2 to 24 hours.
ROAST OR STEWED FILLET OF MUTTON.
Cut some inches from either end of a large and well-kept leg of
mutton, and leave the fillet shaped like one of veal. Remove the
bone, and fill the cavity with forcemeat (No. 1, Chapter VIII.), which
may be flavoured wită a little minced eschalot, when its flavour is
liked : more forcemeat may be added by detaching the skin suffi-
ciently on the flap side to admit it. When thus prepared, the fillet
may be roasted, and served with currant-jelly and brown gravy, or
with only melted butter poured over it; or it may be stewed gently
for nearly or quite four hours, in a pint of gravy or broth, after
having been floured and browned all over in a couple of ounces of
butter : it must then be turned every hour that it may be equally
done. Two or three small onions, a faggot of herbs, a couple of
carrots sliced, four or five cloves, and twenty whole peppercorns can
be added to it at will.
Roasted 2 hours, or stewed 4 hours.
Obs.-- At a large fire, half an hour less of time will roast the mut-
ton sufficiently for English taste in general.
TO ROAST A LOIN OF MUTTON.
The flesh of the loin of mutton is superior to that of the leg, when
roasted ; but to the frugal housekeeper this consideration is usually
overbalanced by the great weight of fat attached to it; this, however,
when economy is more considered than appearance, may be pared off
and melted down for various kitchen nses. When thus reduced in
size, the mutton will be soon roasted. If it is to be dressed in the
usual way, the butcher should be desired to take off the skin; and care
should be taken to preserve the fat from being ever so lightly burned :


CHAP. XII.]
239
MUTTON.
it should be managed, indeed, in the same manner as the saddle, in
every respect, and carved also in the same way, either in its entire
length or in oblique slices.
Without the fat, 1 to 14 hour; with 14 to 13 hour.
TO DRESS A LOIN OF MUTTON LIKE VENISOX.
Skin and bone a loin of mutton, and lay it into a stewpan, or
braising-pan, with a pint of water, a large onion stuck with a dozen
cloves, half a pint of port wine and a spoonful of vinegar; add, when
it boils, a small faggot of thyme and parsley, and some pepper and
salt : let it stew three hours, and turn it often. Make some gravy of
the bones, and add it at intervals to the mutton when required.
This receipt comes to us so strongly recommended by persons who
have partaken frequently of the dish, that we have not thought it
needful to prove it ourselves.
3 hours.
ROAST NECK OF MUTTON,
This is a very favourite joint in many families, the flesh being
more tender and succulent than that even of the loin ; and when
only a small roast is required, the best end of the neck of mutton, or
the middle, if divested of a large portion of the fat and cut into good
shape, will furnish one of appropriate size and of excellent quality.
Let the ends be cut quite even and the bones short, so as to give a
handsome squareness of form to the meat. The butcher, if directed to
do so, will chop off the chine bone, and divide the long bones suf-
ficiently at the joints to prevent any difficulty in separating them at
table. From four to five pounds weight of the neck will require
from an hour to an hour and a quarter of roasting at a clear and
brisk, but not fierce, fire. It should be placed at a distance until it
is heated through, and then moved nearer, and kept thoroughly basted
until it is done. Tomatas baked or roasted may be sent to table with
it; or a little plain gravy and red currant-jelly ; or it may be served
without either
When the entire joint, with the exception of the scrag-end (which
should always be taken off), is cooked, proportionate time must be
allowed for it.
TO ROAST A SHOULDER OP MUTTON.
Flour it well, and baste it constantly with its own dripping ; do
not place it close enough to the fire for the fat to be in the slightest
degree burned, or even too deeply browned. An hour and a half
will roast it, if it be of moderate size. Stewed onions are often sent
to table with it. A shoulder of mutton is sometimes boiled, and
smothered with onion sauce
11 hour


240
[CHAP. XII.
MODERN COOKERY.
THE CAVALIER'S BROIL.
IIalt roast or stew, or parboil, a small, or moderate-sized shoulder
of mutton ; lift it into a hot dish, score it on both sides down to the
bone, season it well with fine salt and cayenne or pepper, and finish
cooking it upon the gridiron over a brisk fire. Skim the fat from
any gravy that may have flowed from it, and keep the dish which
contains it quite hot to receive the joint again. Warm a
pful of
pickled mushrooms, let a part of them be minced, and strew them
over the broil when it is ready to be served ; arrange the remainder
round it, and send it instantly to table. The reader will scarcely
need to be told that this is an excellent dish
FORCED SHOULDER OF MUTTON.
Cut off all the flesh from the inside of the joint down to the blade-
bone, and reserve it for a separate dish. It may be lightly browned
with some turnips or carrots, or both, and made into a small harrico
or stewed simply in its own gravy, or it will make in part, a pie or
pudding. Bone the mutton (see page 219), flatten it on a table, lay
over the inside some thin and ncatiy-trimmed slices of striped bacon,
and spread over them some good veal forcemeat (No. 1, Chapter VIII.)
to within an inch of the outer edge; roll the joint up tightly towards
the knuckle (of which the bone may be left in or not, at pleasure),
secure it well with tape or twine, and stew it gently in good gravy,
from four hours to four and a half.
4 to 4 hours.
Obs.-In France it is usual to substitute suusage-meat for the bacon
and veal stuffing in this dish, but it does not appear to us to be well
suited to it.
MUTTON CUTLETS STEWED IN THEIR OWN GRAVY.
(Good.)
Trim the fat entirely from some cutlets taken from the loin ; just
dip them into cold water, dredge them moderately with pepper, and
plentifully on both sides with flour; rinse a thick iron saucepan with
spring water, and leave three or four tablespoonsful in it; arrange
the cutlets in one flat layer, if it can be done conveniently, and place
them over a very gentle fire; throw in a little salt when they begin
to stew, and let them simmer as softly as possible, but without ceasing,
from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half. If dressed with
great care, which they require, they will be equally tender, easy of
digestion, and nutritious; and being at the same time free from every-
thing which can disagree with the most delicate stomach, the receipt
will be found a valuable one for invalids. The mutton should be of


CHAP. x11.]
MUTTON.
241
good quality, but the excellence of the dish mainly depends on
its being most gently stewed; for if allowed to boil quickly all
the gravy will be dried up, and the meat will be unfit for table.
The cutlets must be turned when they are half done: two or three
spoonsful of water or gravy may be added to them should they
not yield sufficient moisture; or if closely arranged in a single
layer at first, water may be poured in to half their depth. The
advantage of this receipt is, that none of the nutriment of the
meat is lost; for that which escapes from the cutlets remains in
the gravy, which should all be served with them: any fat which
may be perceived upon it should be carefully skimmed off. Cold
broth used for it instead of water will render it extremely good.
14 to 13 hour.
TO BROIL MUTTON CUTLETS. (ENTRÉE.)
These may be taken from the loin, or the best end of the neck, but
the former are generally preferred. Trim off a portion of the fat, or
the whole of it, unless it be liked ; pepper the cutlets, heat the grid-
iron, rub it with a bit of the mutton suet, broil them over a brisk
fire, and turn them often until they are done; this, for the generality
of eaters, will be in about eight minutes, if they are not more than
half an inch thick, which they should not be. French cooks season
them with pepper and salt, and brush them lightly with dissolved
butter or oil, before they are laid to the fire, and we have found the
cutlets so managed extremely good.
Lightly broiled, 7 to 8 minutes. Well done, 10 minutes.
Obs.- A cold Maître d'Hotel sauce may be laid under the cutlets
when they are dished; or they may be served quite 'dry, or with
brown gravy; or with good melted butter seasoned with mushroom
catsup, cayenne, and chili vinegar or lemon-juice.
CUINA CHILO
Mince a pound of an undressed loin or leg of mutton, with or
without a portion of its fat; mix with it two or three young lettuces
shred small, a pint of young peas, a teaspoonful of salt, half
as much
pepper, four tablespoonsful of water, from two to three ounces of
good butter, and, if the flavour be liked, a few green onions minced.
Keep the whole well stirred with a fork orer a clear and gentle fire
until it is quite hot, then place it closely covered by the side of the
stove, or on a high trivet, that it may stew as softly as possible for
a couple of hours. One or even two half-grown cucumbers, cut
small by scoring the ends deeply as they are sliced, or a quarter of a
pint of minced mushrooms may be added with good effect; or a
dessertspoonful of currie-powder and a large chopped onion. A dish
of boiled rice should be sent to table with it.
Mutton, 1 pint; green peas, 1 pint; young lettuces, 2 ; salt, 1 tca
B


242
MODERN COOKERY.
[ [CHAP XII.
spoonful; pepper, 1 teaspoonful; water, 4 tablespoonsful; butter, 2
to 3 oz.: 2 hours. Varieties : cucumbers, 2 ; or mushrooms minced,
* pint; or currie-powder, 1 dessertspoonful, and 1 large onion.
A GOOD FAMILY STEW OF MUTTON.
Put into a broad stewpan or saucepan, a flat layer of mutton chops,
freed entirely from fat and from the greater portion of the bone, or in
preference a cutlet or two from the leg, divided into bits of suitable
size, then just dipped into cold water, seasoned with pepper, and lightly
dredged with four; on these put a layer of mild turnips sliced half
an inch thick, and cut up into squares; then some carrots of the
same thickness, with a seasoning of salt and black pepper between
them; next, another layer of mutton, then plenty of vegetables, and
as much weak broth or cold water as will barely cover the whole;
bring them slowly to a boil, and let them just simmer from two to
three hours, according to the quantity. One or two minced onions
may be strewed between the other vegetables when their flavour is
liked. The savour of the dish will be increased by browning the
meat in a little butter before it is stewed, and still more so by frying
the vegetables lightly as well, before they are added to it. A head
or two of celery would to many tastes improve the flavour of the
whole. In summer, cucumber, green onions, shred lettuces, and
green peas may be substituted for the winter vegetables.
Mutton, free from fat, 24 lbs.; turnips, 3 lbs ; carrots, 3 lbs.;
celery (if added), 2 small heads : 2 to 3 hours.
obs.-The fat and trimmings of the mutton used for this and for
other dishes into which only the lean is admissible, may be turned to
useful account by cutting the whole up rather small, and then
boiling it in a quart of water to the pound, with a little spice, a
bunch of herbs and some salt, until the fat is nearly dissolved: the
liquid will then, if strained off and left until cold, make tolerable
bruth, and the cake of fat which is on the top, if again just melted
and poured free of sediment into small pans, will serve excellently
for common pies and for frying kitchen dinners. Less water will of
course produce broth of better quality, and the addition of a small
quantity of fresh meat or bones will render it very good.
AN IRISH STEW.
Take two pounds of small thick mutton cutlets with or without
fat, according to the taste of the persons to whom the stew is to be
served ; take also four pounds of good potatoes, weighed after they
are pared ; slice them thick, and put a portion of them in a flat
layer into a large thick saucepan or stewpan; season the mutton well
with pepper, and place some of it on the potatoes ; cover it with
another layer, and proceed in the same manner with all, reserving
plenty of the vegetable for the top ; pour in three quarters of a pint


CHAP. XII.]
243
MUTTON.
of cold water, and add, when the stew begins to boil, an ounce of
salt ; let it simmer gently for two hours, and serve it very hot.
When the addition of onion is liked, strew some minced over the
potatoes.
Mutton cutlets, 2 lbs. ; potatoes, 4 lbs.; pepper, 1 oz.; salt, 1 oz.;
water, & pint : 2 hours.
Obs.- For a real Irish stew the potatoes should be boiled to a
mash : an additional quarter of an hour may be necessary for the
full quantity here, but for half of it two hours are quite sufficient.
A BAKED IRISH STEW.
Fill a brown upright Nottingham jar with alternate layers of
mutton (or beef), sliced potatoes, and mild onions; and put in water
and seasoning as above; cover the top closely with whole potatoes
(pared), and send the stew to a moderate oven. The potatoes on the
top should be well cooked and browned before the stew is served.
We have not considered it neccssary to try this receipt, which was
given to us by some friends who keep an excellent table, and who
recommended it much. It is, of course, suited only to a quite plain
family dinner. The onions can be omitted when their flavour is not
liked.
CUTLETS OF COLD MUTTON.
Trim into well-shaped cutlets, which should not be very thin, the
remains of a roast loin or neck of mutton, or of a quite under-
dressed stewed or boiled joint; dip them into egg and well-seasoned
bread-crumbs, and broil or fry them over a quick fire that they may
be browned and heated through without being too much done. This
is a very good mode of serving a half roasted loin or neck. When
the cutlets are broiled they should be dipped into, or sprinkled
thickly with butter just dissolved, or they will be exceedingly dry; a
few additional crumbs should be made to adhere to them after they
are moistened with this.
MUTTON KIDNEYS A LA FRANÇAISE. (ENTRÉE.)
Skin six or eight fine fresh mutton kidneys, and without opening
them, remove the fat; slice them rather thin, strew over them a
large dessertspoonful of minced herbs, of which two-thirds should be
parsley and the remainder thyme, with a tolerable seasoning of
pepper or cayenne, and some fine salt. Melt two ounces of butter
in a frying-pan, put in the kidneys and brown them quickly on both
sides; when nearly done, stir amongst them a dessertspoonful of
flour and shake them well in the pan; pour in the third of a pint of
gravy (or of hot water in default of this), the juice of half a lemon,
and as much of Harvey's sauce, or of mushroom catsup, as will
flavour the whole pleasantly; bring these to the point of boiling, and


244
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. XII.
pour them into a dish garnished with fried sippets, or lift out the
kidneys first, give the sauce a boil and pour it on them. In France,
a couple of glasses of champagne, or, for variety, of claret, are fre-
quently added to this dish : one of port wine can be substituted for
either of these. A dessertspoonful of minced cschalots may be
strewed over the kidneys with the herbs; or two dozens of very
small ones previously stewed until tender in fresh butter over a
gentle fire, may be added after they are dished. This is a very ex-
cellent and approved receipt.
Fried 6 minutes.
BROILED MUTTON KIDNEYS.
OXFORD RECEIPT FOR MUTTON KIDNEYS.
Split them open lengthwise without dividing them, strip off the
skin and fat, run a fine skewer through the points and across the
back of the kidneys to keep them flat while broiling, season them
with pepper or cayenne, lay them over a clear brisk fire, with the cut
sides towards it, turn them in from four to five minutes, and in as
many more dish, and serve them quickly, with or without a cold
Mâitre d'Hotel sauce under them. French cooks season them with
pepper and fine salt, and brush a very small quantity of oil or cla-
rified butter over them before they are broiled : we think this an
improvement.
8 to 10 minutes.
(BREAKFAST DISII,
OR ENTRÉE.)
Fry gently in a little good butter, a dozen croûtons (slices of bread,
of uniform shape and size, trinimed free from crust), cut half an
inch thick, about two inches and a half wide, and from three to four
in length : lift them out and keep them hot. Split quite asunder six
fine fresh kidneys, after having freed them from the skin and fat;
season them with fine salt and cayenne, arrange them evenly in a
clean frying-pan, and pour some clarified butter over them. Fry
them over a somewhat brisk fire, dish each half upon a croûton, make
a sauce in the pan as for veal cutlets, but use gravy for it instead of
water, should it be at hand; add a little wine or catsup, pour it round
the croûtons, and serve the kidneys instantly.
10 minutes.
TO ROAST A FORE QUARTER OF LAMB.
This should be laid to a clear brisk fire, and carefully and plen-
tifully basted from the time of its becoming warm until it is ready
for table; but though it requires quick roasting, it must never be
placed sufficiently near the fire to endanger the fat, which is very
liable to catch or burn. When the joint is served, the shoulder
should be separated from the ribs with a sharp knife; and a small
slice of fresh butter, a little cayenne, and a squeeze of lemon juice


CHAP. X11.)
LAUB.
245
should be laid between them; if the cook be an expert carver, this
had better be done before the lamb is sent to table. The cold
Maître d'Hotel sauce of Chapter VI. may be substituted for the usual
ingredients, the parsley being omitted or not, according to the taste.
Serve good mint sauce, and a fresh salad with this roast.
A leg, shoulder, or loin of lamb should be cooked by the same
directions as the quarter, a difference only being made in the time
allowed for each.
Fore quarter of lamb, 13 to 2 hours. Leg, 1; hour (less if very
small); shoulder, 1 to 12 hour.
Obs.-The time will vary a little, of course, from the difference in
the weather, and in the strength of the fire. Lamb should always
be well roasted.
SADDLE OF LAMB.
This is an exceedingly nice joint for a small party. It should be
roasted at a brisk fire, and kept constantly basted with its own
dripping : it will require from an hour and three quarters to two
hours roasting: Send it to table with mint sauce, brown cucumber
sauce, and a salad.
l; to 2 hours.
Obs. — The following will be found an excellent receipt for mint
sauce :— With three heaped tablespoonsful of finely-chopped young
mint, mix two of pounded and sifted sugar, and six of the best
vinegar : stir it until the sugar is dissolved.
ROAST LOIN OF LAMB
Place it at a moderate distance from a clear fire, baste it frequently,
froth it when nearly done, and serve it with the same sauces as
the preceding joints. A loin of lamb may be boiled and sent to table
with white cucumber, mushroom, common white sauce, or parsley
and butter.
1 to 14 hour.
STEWED LEG OF LAMB WITH WHITE SAUCE. (ENTRÉE.)*
Choose a small plump leg of lamb, not much exceeding five pounds
in weight + put it into a vessel nearly of its size, with a few trimmings
or a bone or two of undressed veal if at hand; cover it with warm
water, bring it slowly to a boil, clear off the scum with great care
when it is first thrown to the surface, and when it has all been
skimmed off, add a faggot of thyme and parsley, and two carrots of
moderate size. Let the lamb simmer only, but without ceasing, for
an hour and a qu er; serve it covered with béchamel, or rich
English white sauce, and send a boiled tongue to table with it, and
some of the sauce in a tureen
lf hour.
* This may be served as a remove in a small unceremonious dinner.


246
[CHAP. XIL
MODERN COOKERY.
1
LOIN OF LAMB STEWED IN BUTTER, (ENTRÉE.)
Wash the joint, and wipe it very dry; skewer down the flap, and
lay it into a close-shutting and thick stewpan or saucepan, in which
three ounces of good butter have been just dissolved, but not allowed
to boil ; let it simmer slowly over a very gentle fire for two hours
and a quarter, and turn it when it is rather more than half done.
Lift it out, skim and pour the gravy over it; send asparagus, cucum-
ber, or svubise sauce to table with it; or brown gravy, mint sauce,
and a salad.
2 hours.
LAMB OR MUTTON CUTLETS, WITH SOUBISE SAUCE. (ENTRÉE.)
The best end of two necks of either will be required for a hand-
some dish. Cut them thin with one bone to each ; trim off the fat
and all the skin, scrape the bones very clean that they may look
white, and season the cutlets with salt and white pepper; brush them
with egg, dip them into very fine bread-crumbs, then into clarified
butter, and again into the bread-crumbs, which should be flattened
evenly upon them, and broil them over a very clear and brisk fie,
or fry them in a little good butter of a fine clear brown; press them
in two sheets of white blotting paper to extract the grease, and dish
them in a circle, and pour into the centre a soubise sauce, or a purée
of cucumbers. Brown cucumber sauce or a rich gravy, may be sub-
stituted for either of these in serving a quite simple dinner. Cutlets
of the loin may be dressed in the same way after being dipped into
crumbs of bread mixed with a full seasoning of minced herbs, and
with a small quantity of eschalot when its flavour is liked. The
small flat bone at the end of the cutlets should be taken off, to give
them a good appearance.
LAMB CUTLETS IN THEIR OWN GRAVY.
Follow exactly the receipt for mutton cutlets dressed in the same
way, but allow for those of lamb fifteen or twenty minutes less of
time, and an additional spoonful of liquid.
CUTLETS OF COLD LAMB.
See the receipt for Cutlets of Cold Mutton, page 243.


CHAP. XIII.]
247
PORK.
Barat
CHAPTER XIII.
Pork.
}
No.
1 The Spare Rib.
9. Hand.
8. Belly, or Spring.
No.
4. Fore Loin.
6. Hind Loin,
6. Leg.
In season from Michaelmas to March : should be avoided in very warm
weather.
TO CHOOSE PORK.
This meat is so proverbially, and we believe even dangerously un-
wholesome when ill fed, or in any degree diseased, that its quality
should be closely examined before it is purchased. When not home-
reared, it should be bought if possible of some respectable farmer or
miller, unless the butcher who supplies it can be perfectly relied on.
Both the fat and lean should be very white, and the latter finely
grained ; the rind should be thin, smooth, and cool to the touch ; if
it be clammy, the pork is stale, and should be at once rejected; it
ought also to be scrupulously avoided when the fat, instead of being
quite clear of all blemish, is full of small kernels which are indicative
of disease. The manner of cutting up the pork varies in different
counties, and also according to the purposes for which it is intended.
The legs are either made into hams, or slightly salted for a few days
and boiled; they are also sometimes roasted when the pork is not
large nor coarse, with a savoury forcemeat inserted between the skin


248
(CHAT. XTIL
MODERN COOKERY.
and flesh of the knuckle. The part of the shoulder provincially
called the hand, is also occasionally pickled in the same way as hams
and bacon, or it is salted and boiled, but it is too sinewy for roasting.
After these and the head have been taken off, the remainder, without
further division than being split down the back, may be converted
into whole sides, or flitches as they are usually called, of bacon ; but
when the meat is large and required in part for various other pur-
poses, a chine may be taken out, and the lat pared off the bones of
the ribs and loins for bacon; the thin part of the body converted into
pickled pork, and the ribs and other bones roasted, or made into
pies or sausages. The feet, which are generally salted down for
iminediate use, are excellent if laid for two or three weeks into the
same pickle as the hams, then well covered with cold water, and
slowly boiled until tender.
The loins of young and delicate pork are roasted with the skin on;
and this is scored in regular stripes of about a quarter of an inch wide
with the point of a sharp knife, before the joints are laid to the fire.
The skin of the leg also is just cut through in the same manner.
This is done to prevent its blistering, and to render it more easy to
carve, as the skin (or crackling) becomes so crisp and hard in the
cooking that it is otherwise sometimes difficult to divide it.
To be at any time fit for table, pork must be perfectly sweet, and
thoroughly cooked ; great attention also should be given to it when
it is in pickle, for if any part of it be long exposed to the air, without
being turned into, or well and frequently basted with the brine, it will
often become tainted during the process of curing it.
TO MELT LARD,
Strip the skin from the inside fat of a freshly killed and well-fed
pig; slice it small and thin ; put it into a new or well-scalded jar,
set it into a pan of boiling water, and let it simmer over a clear tire.
As it dissolves, strain it into small stone jars or deep earthen pans, and
when períectly cold, tie over it the skin that was cleared from the
lard, or bladders which have been thoroughly washed and wiped very
dry. Lard thus prepared is extremely pure in flavour, and keeps
perfectly well if stored in a cool place; it may be used with advantage
in making common pastry, as well as for frying fish, and for various
other purposes. It is better to keep the last drainings of the fat apart
from that which is first poured off, as it will not be quite so fine in
quality.
TO PRESERVE UNMELTED LARD FOR MANY MONTIIS.
For the particular uses to which the leaf-fat, or fleed, can be ad-
vantageously applied, see fleed-crust, Chapter XVIII. It may be kept
well during the summer months by rubbing fine salt rather plenti-
fully upon it when it is first taken from the pig, and letting it lie for
a couple of days; it should then be well drained, and covered with a


CHAP. XIII.]
249
PORK.
strong brine; this in warmer weather should be changed occasionally.
When wanted for use, lay it into cold water for two or three hours,
then wipe it dry, and it will have quite the effect of the fresh fleed
when made into paste.
Inner fat of pig, 6 lbs.; fine salt, } to lb. : 2 days Brine; to
each quart of water, 6 oz. salt.
TO ROAST A SUCKING PIG.
After the pig has been
scalded and prepared for
the spit, wipe it as dry as
possible, and put into the
body about half a pint of
fine bread-crumbs, mixed
with three heaped tea-
spoonsful of sage, minced
very small, three ounces of
good butter, a large salt-
spoonful of salt, and two-thirds as much of pepper or some cayenne.
Sew it up with soft, but strong cotton; truss it as a hare, with the
fore legs skewered back, and the hind ones forward; lay it to a strong
clear fire, but keep it at a moderate distance, as it would quickly
blister or scorch if placed too near. So soon as it has become warm,
rub it with a bit of butter tied in a fold of muslin or of thin cloth,
and repeat this process constantly while it is roasting. When the
gravy begins to drop from it, put basins or small deep tureens under,
to catch it in.* As soon as the pig is of a fine light amber brown
and the steam draws strongly towards the fire, wipe it quite dry with
a clean cloth, and rub a bit of cold butter over it. When it is half
done, a pig iron, or in lieu of this, a large flat iron should be hung
in the centre of the grate, or the middle of the pig will be done long
before the ends. When it is ready for table lay it into a very hot
dish, and before the spit is withdrawn, take off and open the head
and split the body in two; chop together quickly the stuffing and the
brains, put them into half a pint of good veal gravy ready thickened,
add a glass of Madeira or of sherry, and the gravy which has dropped
from the pig; pour a small portion of this under the roast and serve
the remainder as hot as possible in a turecn: a little pounded mace
and cayenne with a squeeze of lemon-juice, may be added, should the
flavour require heightening. Fine bread sauce, and plain gravy
should likewise be served with it. Some persons still prefer the old-
fashioned currant sauce to any other : and many have the brains and
stuffing stirred into rich melted butter, instead of gravy; but the
receipt which we have given has usually been so much approved,
that we can recommend it with some confidence, as it stands. Modern
taste would perhaps be rather in favour of rich brown gravy and
thick tomata sauce, or sauce poivrade.
• A deep oblong dish of suitable size seems better adapted to this purpose.


250
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. XII.
In dishing the pig lay the body fat in the middle, and the head
and ears at the ends and sides. When very pure oil can be obtained,
it is preferable to butter for the basting : it should be laid on with a
bunch of feathers A pig of three weeks old is considered as best
suited to the table, and it should always be dressed if possible the day
it is killed.
13 to 18 hour.
BAKED PIG.
Prepare the pig exactly as for roasting; truss, and place it in the
dish in which it is to be sent to the oven, and anoint it thickly in
every part with white of egg which has been slightly beaten ; it will
require no basting, nor further attention of any kind, and will be well
crisped by this process.
PIG A LA TARTARE
When the shoulders of a cold roast pig are left entire, take them
off with care, remove the skin, trim them into good form, dip them
into clarified butter or very pure salad oil, then into fine crumbs
highly seasoned with cayenne and mixed with about a half-teaspoonful
of salt. Broil them over a clear brisk fire, and send them quickly to
table, as soon as they are heated through and equally browned, with
tomata sauce, or sauce Robert. Curried crumbs and a currie-sauce
will give an excellent variety of this dish ; and savoury herbs with
two or three eschalots chopped small together, and mixed with the
bread-crumbs, and brown eschalot sauce to accompany the broil, will
likewise be an acceptable one to many tastes.
-
SUCKING PIG EN BLANQUETTE. (ENTRÉE.)
Raise the flesh from the bones of a cold roast pig, free it from the
crisp outer skin or crackling, and cut it down into small handsome
slices. Dissolve a bit of butter the size of an egg, and throw in a
handful of button-mushrooms, cleaned and sliced ; shake these over
the fire for three or four minutes, then stir to them a dessertspoonful
of flour and continue to shake or toss them gently, but do not allow
them to brown. Add a small bunch of parsley, a bay-leaf, a
middling-sized blade of mace, some salt, a small quantity of cayenne
or white pepper, half a pint of good veal or beef broth, and from two
to three glasses of light white wine. Let these boil gently until
reduced nearly one third ; take out the parsley and mace, lay in the
meat, and bring it slowly to the point of simmering ; stir to it the
beaten yolks of three fresh eggs, and the strained juice of half a lemon
Serve the blanquette very hot


CHAP. NIL]
251
PORK.
TO ROAST PORK.
1
When the skin is left on the joint which is to be roasted, it must
be scored in narrow strips of equal width, before it is put to the fire,
and laid at a considerable distance from it at first, that the meat may
be heated through before the skin hardens or begins to brown; it
must never_stand still for an instant, and the basting should be
constant. Pork is not at the present day much served at very good
tables, particularly in this form ; and it is so still less with the old
savoury stuffing of sage and onions, though some eaters like it
always with the leg: when it is ordered for this joint, therefore,
prepare it as directed for a goose, at page 160, and after having
loosened the skin from the knuckle, insert as much as can well be
secured in it. A little clarified butter or salad oil may be brushed
over the skin quite at first, particularly should the meat not be very
fat, but unless remarkably lean, it will speedily yield sufficient drip-
ping to baste it with. Joints from which the fat has been pared,
will require of course far less roasting than those on which the
crackling is retained. Brown gravy, and apple or tomata sauce, are
the usual accompaniments to all roasts of pork except a sucking pig
they should always be thoroughly cooked.
Leg of pork of 8 lbs., 3 hours ; loin of from 5 to 6 lbs., with the
skin on, 2 to 24 hours ; spare rib of 6 to 7 lbs., 14 hour.
TO ROAST A SADDLE OF PORK.
The skin of this joint may be removed entirely, but if left on it
must be scored lengthwise, or in the direction in which it will be
carved. The pork should be young, of fine quality, and of moderate
size. Roast it very carefully, either by the directions given in the
preceding receipt, or when the skin is taken off, by those for a
saddle of mutton, allowing in the latter case from three quarters of
an hour to a full hour more of the fire for it in proportion to its
weight. Serve it with good brown gravy and tomata sauce, or
sauce Robert; or with apple sauce should it be preferred.
20 minutes to the pound, quite
TO BROIL OR FRY PORK CUTLETS.
Cut them about half an inch thick from a delicate loin of pork,
trim them into neat form, and take off part of the fat, or the whole
of it when it is not liked; dredge a little pepper or cayenne upon
them, and broil them over a clear and moderate fire from fifteen to
eighteen minutes: sprinkle a little fine salt upon them just before
they are dished. They may be dipped into egg and then into
bread-crumbs mixed with minced sage, and finished in the usual


252
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP xin
way.* When fried, flour them well, and season them with salt and
pepper first. Serve them with gravy in the pan, or with sauce
Robert.
COBBETI'S RECEIPT FOR CURING BACON.
“ All other parts being taken away, the two sides that remain, and
which are called flitches, are to be cured for bacon. They are first
rubbed with salt on their inside, or flesh sides, then placed one on
the other, the tlesin sides uppermost in a salting trough, which has a
gutter round its edges to drain away the brine; for to have sweet
and fine bacon, the flitches must not be sopping in brine, which gives
it the sort of taste that barrel-pork and sea-junk have, and than
which is nothing more villanous. Everyone knows how different
is the taste of fresh dry salt from that of salt in a dissolved state.
Therefore, change the salt often; once in four or five days. Let it
melt and sink in, but let it not lie too long. Change the flitches,
put that at the bottom which was first on the top. Do this a
couple of times. This mode will cost you a great deal more in salt
than the sopping mode; but without it your bacon will not be so
sweet and fine, nor keep so well. As to the time required for
making the flitches sufficiently salt, it depends on circumstances;
the thickness of the flitch, the state of the weather, the place
wherein the salting is going on. It takes a longer time for a thick
than for a thin flitch ; it takes longer in dry than in damp weather,
it takes longer in a dry than in a damp place. But for the flitches of
a hog of five score, in weather not very dry or very damp, about six
weeks may do; and as yours is to be fat, which receives little
injury from over-salting, give time enough; for you are to have
bacon till Christmas comes again. The place for salting should,
like a dairy, always be cool, but always admit of a free circulation of
air , confined air, though cool, will taint meat sooner than the mid-
day sun accompanied with a breeze. With regard to smoking the
bacon, two precautions are necessary: first to hang the flitches
where no rain comes down upon them, and next, that the smoke
must proceed from wood, not peat, turf, nor coal. As to the time
that it requires to smoke a flitch, it must depend a good deal upon
whether there be a constant fire beneath, and whether the fire be
large or small. A month will do if the fire be pretty constant, and
such as a farm house fire usually is. But oversmoking, or rather,
too long hanging in the air, makes the bacon rust. Great attention
should, therefore, be paid to this matter. The flitch ought not to be
dried up to the hardness of a board, and yet it ought to be perfectly
dry. Before you hang it up, lay it on the floor, scatter the flesh-side
pretty thickly over with bran or with some fine saw-dust, not of deal
or fir. Rub' it on the flesh, or pat it well down upon it. This
• If broiled, with the addition of these a little clarified butter must be added
egg, or sprinkled on the cutlets.


CHAP. XII.]
253
PORK.
keeps the smoke from getting into the little openings, and makes a
sort of crust to be dried on.
" To keep the bacon sweet and good, and free from hoppers, siſt
fine some clean and dry wood-ashes. Put some at the bottom of a
box or chest long enough to hold a fitch of bacon. Lay in one
fitch; and then put in more ashes, then another flitch, and cover this
with six or eight inches of the ashes. The place where the box
or chest is kept ought to be dry, and should the ashes become damp
they should be put in the fire-place to dry, and when cold, put
back again. With these precautions the bacon will be as good at the
end of the year as on the first day.”
Obs.-Although the preceding directions for curing the bacon are
a little vague as regards the proportions of salt and pork, we think
those for its after-management will be acceptable to many of our
readers, as in our damp climate it is often a matter of great difficulty
to preserve hams and bacon through the year from rust.
A GENUINE YORKSHIRE RECEIPT FOR CURING HAMS AND
BACON.
.“ Let the swine be put up to fast for twenty-four hours before
they are killed (and observe that neither a time of severe frost, nor
very damp weather, is favourable for curing bacon). After a pig has
been killed and scalded, let it hang twelve hours before it is cut up,
then for every stone or fourteen pounds' weight of the meat, take
one pound of salt, an ounce and a quarter of saltpetre, and half an
ounce of coarse sugar. Rub the sugar and salt petre first into the
fleshy parts of the pork, and remove carefully with a fork any
extravasated blood that may appear on it, together with the broken
vessels adjoining; apply the salt especially to those parts, as well as
to the shank-ends of the hams, and any other portions of the flesh
that are more particularly exposed. Before the salt is added to the
meat, warm it a little before the fire, and use only a part of it in the
first instance; then, as it dissolves, or is absorbed by the meat, add
the remainder at several different times. Let the meat in the mean
while lie either on clean straw, or on a cold brick or stone floor: it
will require from a fortnight to three weeks' curing, according to the
state of the atmosphere. When done, hang it in a cool dry place,
where there is a thorough current of air, and let it remain there
until it is perfectly dry, when the salt will be found to have
crystallized upon tħe surface. The meat may then be removed to
your store, and kept in a close chest, surrounded with clean outer
straw. If very large, the hams will not be in perfection in less than
twelve months from the time of their being stored."
Pork, 20 stone ; salt, 20 lbs.; saltpetre, 20 oz. ; sugar, 10 oz
14 to 21 days.


254
[CHAP. XIII
MODERN COOKERY.
KENTISH MODE OF CUTTING UP AND CURING A PIG.
To a porker of sixteen stone Kentish weight (that is to say, eight
pounds to the stone, or nine stone two pounds of common weight),
allow two gallons of salt, two pounds of salt petre, one pound of
coarse sugar, and two pounds of bay-salt well dried and reduced to
powder. Put aside the hams and cheeks to be cured by themselves;
let the feet, ears, tail, and eye-parts of the head be salted for
immediate eating; the blade-bones, and ends of the loins and ribs
reserved for sausage-meat should it be wanted, and the loin and
spare-ribs for roasting. Divide and salt the remainder thus: Mix
well together the salt petre, sugar, and bay-salt, and rub the pork
gently with them in every part ; cover the bottom of the pickling
tub with salt, and pack in the pork as closely as possible, with a
portion of the remaining salt between each layer. A very little
water is sometimes sprinklej in to facilitate the dissolving of the salt
into a brine, but this is always better avoided, and in damp weather
will not be needed. If in a fortnight it should not have risen, so as
almost entirely to cover the meat, boil a strong brine of salt, salt-
petre, sugar, and bay-salt ; let it remain until perfectly cold, and
then pour it over the pork. A board, with a heavy stone weight
upon it, should be kept upon the meat to force it down under the
brine. In from three to four months it will be fit for table, and will
be delicate and excellent pickled pork.
The pickling parts of a porker of sixteen stone (Kentish weight,
or nine stone two pounds of common weight, or fourteen pounds to
the stone); common salt, 2 gallons; salt petre, 2 lbs.; coarse sugar,
1 lb.: bay-salt, 2 lbs.
FRENCH BACON FOR LARDING,
Cut the bacon from the pig with as little lean to it as possible.
Rub it well in every part with salt which has been dried, reduced to
powder, and siſted; put the layers of bacon close against and upon
each other, in a shallow wooden trough, and set in a cool, but not a
damp cellar; add more salt all round the bacon, and lay a board,
with a very heavy weight upon it. Let it remain for six weeks, then
hang it up in a dry and airy place.
Pork, 14 lbs. ; salt, 14 oz. : 6 weeks.
3
TO PICKLE CHEEKS OF BACON AND HAMS.
One pound of common salt, one pound of the coarsest sugar, and
one ounce of saltpetre, in fine powder, to each stone (fourteen
pounds) of the meat will answer this purpose extremely well. An
ounce of black pepper can be added, if liked, and when less sugar is
preferred, the proportion can be diminished one half, and the quan,
4


CHAP. XIII255
a..
PORK.
]
tity of salt as much increased. Bacon also may be cured by this
receipt, or by the Bordyke one for hams. A month is sufficient
time for the salting, unless the pork be very large, when five weeks
must be allowed for a ham. The ingredients should be well mixed,
and all applied at the same time.
To each 14 lbs. of pork, salt, 1 lb. ; coarse sugar, 1 lb.; saltpetre,
1 oz.; pepper (if used), 1 oz.: 4 to 5 weeks.
MONSIEUR UDE'S RECEIPT, HAMS SUPERIOR TO WESTPHALIA.
(Excellent.)
“ Take the nams as soon as the pig is sufficiently cold to be cut
up, rub them well with common salt, and leave them for three days
to drain ; throw away the brine, and for a couple of hams of from
fifteen to eighteen pounds weight, mix together two ounces of
saltpetre, a pound of coarse sugar, and a pound of common salt; rub
the hams in every part with these, lay them into deep pickling,
pans with the rind downwards, and keep them for three days well
covered with the salt and sugar; then pour over them a bottle of
good vinegar, and turn them in the brine, and baste them with it
daily for a month; drain them well, rub them with bran, and let
them be hung for a month high in a chimney over a wood-fire to
be smoked."
Hams, of from 15 to 18 lbs. each, 2; to drain 3 days. Common
salt, and coarse sugar, each 1 lb.; saltpetre, 2 oz.: 3 days. Vinegar,
I bottle: 1 month. To be smoked 1 month.
Obs.-Such of our readers as shall make trial of this admirable
receipt, will acknowledge, we doubt not, that the hams thus cured
are in reality superior to those of Westphalia. It was originally
given to the public by the celebrated French cook, Monsieur Ude.
He directs that the hams when smoked should be hung as high as
possible from the fire, that the fat may not be melted; a very
necessary precaution, as the mode of their being cured renders it
peculiarly liable to do so. This, indeed, is somewhat perceptible in
the cooking, which ought, therefore, to be conducted with especial
care. The hams should be very softly simmered,* and not over-
done. They should be large, and of finely-fed pork, or the receipt
will not answer. We give the result of our first trial of it, which
was perfectly successful, the ham cured by it being of the finest
possible flavour.
Leg of Suffolk farm-nouse pork, 14 to 15 lbs.; saltpetre, 1} oz.;
strong coarse salt, 6 oz.; coarse sugar, 8 oz.: 3 days. Fine white-
wine vinegar, 1 pint. In pickle, turned daily, 1 month. Smoked
over wood, 1 month.
Obs.—When two hams are pickled together, a smaller proportion
* We have not had the trial made ourselves, but we think they would be even
finer baked than boiled.


256
MODERN COOKERY.
[снАР. хіп
of the ingredients is required for each, than for one which is cured
by itself.
SUPER-EXCELLENT BACON.
For several successive years, after first testing the above receipt,
we had it adopted for curing bacon, with even more highly satis-
factory results, as it was of incomparable flavour, and remained good
for a great length of time, the vinegar preserving it entirely from
becoming rusted. Well-fed pork of delicate size was always used for
it, and excellent vinegar. The ingredients were added in the pro-
portions given in the receipt for the Suffolk ham which preceeds this,
and the same time was allowed for the salting and smoking
UAMS.
(Bordyke Receipt.)
After the hams have been rubbed with salt, and well drained
from the brine, according to our previous directions, take, for each
fourteen pounds weight of the pork, one ounce of salt petre in fine
powder mixed with three ounces of very brown sugar; rub the
meat in every part with these, and let it remain some hours, then
cover it well with eight ounces of bay-salt, dried and pounded, and
mixed with four ounces of common salt: in four days add one pound
of treacle, and keep the hams turned daily, and well basted with the
pickle for a month. Hang them up to drain for a night, fold them
in brown paper, and send them to be smoked for a month. An
ounce of ground black pepper is often mixed with the saltpetre in
this receipt, and three ounces of bruised juniper. berries are rubbed
on to the meat before the salt is added, when hams of a very high
flavour are desired.
Ilam, 14 lbs.; salt petre, 1 oz.; coarse sugar, 3 oz. : 8 to 12 hours
Bay-salt, lb.; common salt, 4 oz.: 4 days. Treacle, 1 lb.: 1
month. To heighten flavour, black pepper, 1 oz. ; juniper-berries,
3 oz.
TO BOIL A HAM.
The degree of soaking which must be given to a ham before it is
boiled, must depend both on the manner in which it has been cured,
and on its age. If highly salted, hard, and old, a day and night, or
even longer, may be requisite to dilate the pores sufficiently, and to
extract a portion of the salt. To do either effectually the water
must be several times changed during the steeping We generally
find hams cured by any of the receipts which we have given in this
chapter quite enough soaked in twe hours; and they are more
frequently laid into water only early in the morning of the day on
which they are boiled. Those pickled by Monsieur Ude's receipt
need much less steeping than any others. After the ham has been


CHAP. XIII.]
PORK.
257
scraped, or brushed, as clean as possible, pare away lightly any part
which, from being blackened or rusty, would disfigure it; though
it is better not to cut the flesh at all unless it be really requisite for
the good appearance of the joint. Lay it into a ham-kettle, or into
any other vessel of a similar form, and cover it plentifully with cold
water; bring it very slowly to boil, and clear off carefully the scum
which will be thrown up in great abundance. So soon as the water
has been cleared from this, draw back the pan quite to the edge of
the stove, that the ham may be simmered softly but steadily, until it
is tender. On no account allow it to boil fast. A bunch of herbs
and three or four carrots, thrown in directly after the water has
been skimmed, will improve it.
When it can be probed very
easily with a sharp skewer, or larding-pin, lift out, strip off the
skin, and should there be an oven at hand, set it in for a few
minutes after having laid it on a drainer ; strew fine raspings over
it, or grate a hard-toasted crust, or sift upon it the prepared bread
of Chapter V., unless it is to be glazed, when neither of these must
be used.
Small ham, 3 to 4 hours; moderate sized, 4 to 44 hours; very
large, 5 to 54 hours.
Obs.– We have seen the following manner of boiling a ham
recommended, but we have not tried it :-“Put into the water in
which it is to be boiled, a quart of old cider and a pint of vinegar,
a large bunch of sweet herbs, and a bay leaf. When it is two-thirds
done, skin, cover it with raspings, and set it in an oven until it is
done enough : it will prove incomparably superior to a ham boiled in
the usual way.”
TO GARNISH AND ORNAMENT HAMS IN VARIOUS WAYS.
When a ham has been carefully and delicately boiled, the rind
while it is still warm, may be carved in various fanciful shapes to
decorate it ; and a portion of it left round the knuckle in a semi-
circular form of four or five inches deep, may at all times be easily
scollopped at the edge or cut into points (vandykes). This, while
preserving a character of completo simplicity for the dish, will give it
an air of neatness and finish at a slight cost of time and trouble. A
paper frill should be placed round the bone.
The Germans cut the ham-rind after it has been stripped from the
joint, into small leaves and similar “prettinesses,"* and arrange them
in a garland, or other approved device, upon its surface. In Ireland
and elsewhere, bread evenly sliced, and stamped out with cutters
much smaller than a fourpenny-piece, then carefully fried or
coloured in the oven, is used to form designs upon hams after they
are glazed. Large dice of clear firm savoury jelly form their most
appropriate garnish, because they are intended to he eaten with them
• This should be done with a confectionary or paste oatter.
8


258
[CHAP. XIII.
MODERN COOKERY.
For the manner of making this, and glaze also, see Chapter
IV.
The ham shown in Plate V., which follows the directions for
“Carving," is of very good appearance ; but in common English
kitchens generally, even the degree of artistic skill required to form
its decorations well, is not often to be met with.
FRENCH RECEIPT FOR BOILING A HAM.
After having soaked, thoroughly cleaned, and trimmed the ham,
put over it a little very sweet clean hay, and tie it up in a thin
cloth; place it in a ham kettle, a braising pan, or any other vessel as
nearly of its size as can be, and cover it with two parts of cold water
and one of light white wine (we think the reader will perhaps find
cider a good substitute for this); add, when it boils and has been
skimmed, four or five carrots, two or three onions, a large bunch of
savoury herbs, and the smallest bit of garlic. Let the whole sim-
/ mer gently from four to five hours, or longer should the ham be
very large. When perfectly tender, lift it out, take off the rind, and
sprinkle over it some fine crumbs, or some raspings of bread mixed
with a little finely minced parsley.
Obs.-Foreign cooks generally leave hams, braised joints, and
various other prepared meats intended to be served cold, to cool
down partially in the liquor in which they are cooked ; and this
renders them more succulent ; but for small frugal families the
plan does not altogether answer, because the moisture of the surface
(which would evaporate quickly if they were taken out quite hot)
prevents their keeping well for any length of time.
The same
objection exists to serving bams laid upon, or closely garnished with
savoury jelly (aspic), which becomes much more quickly unfit for
table than the hams themselves.
These considerations, which may appear insignificant to some of
our readers, will have weight with those who are compelled to
regulate their expenses with economy.
TO BAKE A HAM.
Unless when too salt from not being sufficiently soaked, a ham
(particularly a young and fresh one) eats much better baked than
boiled, and remains longer good. The safer plan to ensure its being
sufficiently steeped, is to lay it into plenty of cold water over night.
The following day soak it for an hour or more in warm water, wash
it delicately clean, trim smoothly off all rusty parts, and lay it with
the rind downwards into a large common pie-dish; press an oiled
paper closely over it, and then fasten securely to the edge of the
dish a thick cover of coarse paste; and send the ham to a moderate
Oven, of which the heat will be well sustained until it is baked. Or,
when more convenient, lay the ham at once-rind downwards-on


CHAP. XIII.]
259
PORK
the paste, of which sufficient should be maile, and rolled off to an
inch in thickness, to completely envelope it. Press a sheet of oiled
foolscap paper upon it; gather up the paste firmly all round, draw
and pinch the edges together, and fold them over on the upper side
of the ham, taking care to close them so that no gravy can escape
Send it to a well-heated, but not a fierce oven. A very small ham
will require quite three hours baking, and a large one five. The
crust and the skin must be removed while it is hot. When part
only of a ham is dressed, this mode is better far than boiling it.
TO BOIL BACON.
When very highly salted and dried, it should be soaked for an
hour before it is dressed. Scrape and wash it well, cover it plen-
tifully with cold water, let it both heat and boil slowly, remove all
the scum with care, and when a fork or skewer will penetrate the
bacon easily lift it out, strip off the skin, and strew raspings of bread
over the top, or grate upon it a hard crust which has been toasted
until it is crisp quite through; or should it be at hand, use for the
purpose the bread recommended at page 103, then dry it a little
before the fire, or set it for a few minutes into a gentle oven. Bacon
requires long boiling, but the precise time depends upon its quality,
the flesh of young porkers becoming tender much sooner than that of
older ones; sometimes too, the manner in which the animal has been
fed renders the meat hard, and it will then, unless thoroughly cooked,
prove very indigestible. From ten to fifteen minutes less for the
pound, must be allowed for unsmoked bacon, or for pickled pork.
Smoked bacon (striped), 2 lbs., from 11 to 11 hour ; unsmoked
bacon or pork, 1 to 14 hour.
Obs.-The thickest part of a large side or flitch of bacon will
require from twenty to thirty minutes longer boiling than the thinner
side.
BACON BROILED OR FRIED.
Cut it evenly in thin slices or rashers, as they are generally called,
pare from them all rind and rust, curl them round, fasten them with
small slight skewers, then fry, broil, or toast them in a Dutch oven;
draw out the skewers before they are sent to table. A few minutes
will dress them either way. They may also be cooked without being
curled. The rind should always be taken off, and the bacon gently
toasted, grilled, or fried, that it may be well done without being too
much dried or hardened : it should be cut thin.
DRESSED RASHERS OF BACON.
Slice rather thicker than for frying some cold boiled bacon, and
strew it lightly on both sides with fine raspings of bread, or with


260
[CHAP. XIII
MODERN COOKERY.
1
a grated crust which has been very slowly and gradually toasted
until brown quite tlırough. Toast or warm the rashers in a Dutch
oven, and serve them with veal cutlets, or any other delicate meat.
The bacon thus dressed is much more delicate than when broiled or
fried without the previous boiling.
4 to 5 minutes.
TONBRIDGE BRAWN.
Split open the head of a pig of middling size, remove the brain
and all the bones, strew the inside rather thickly with fine salt, and
let it drain until the following day. Cleanse the ears and feet in the
same manner : wipe them all from the brine, lay them into a large
pan, and rub them well with an ounce and a half of salt petre mixed
with six ounces of sugar; in twelve hours, add six ounces of salt ;
the next day pour a quarter of a pint of good vinegar over them, and
keep them turned in the pickle every twenty-four hours for a
week; then wash it off the ears and feet, and boil them for about an
hour and a half ; bone the feet while they are warm, and trim the
gristle from the large ends of the ears. When these are ready, mix
a large grated nutmeg with a teaspoonful and a half of mace, half a
teaspoonfnl of cayenne, and as much of cloves. Wash, but do not
soak the head; wipe and flatten it on a board ; cut some of the flesh
from the thickest parts, and (when the whole of the meat has been
seasoned equally with the spices) lay it on the thinnest; intermix it
with that of the ears and feet, roll it up very tight, and bind it firmly
with broad tape; fold a thin pudding-cloth quite closely round it,
and tie it securely at both ends. A braising-pan, from its form, is
best adapted for boiling it, but if there be not one at hand, place the
head in a vessel adapted to its size, with the bones and trimmings of
the feet and ears, a large bunch of savoury herbs, two moderate-sized
onions, a small head of celery, three or four carrots, a teaspoonful of
peppercorns, and sufficient cold water to cover it well; boil it very
gently for four hours, and leave it until two parts cold in the liquor
in which it was boiled. Take off the cloth, and put the brawn
between two dishes or trenchers, with a heavy weight on the upper
one. The next day take off the fillets of tape, and serve the head
whole or sliced with the brawn sauce of Chapter VI.
ITALIAN PORK CHEESE.
Chop, not very fine, one pound of lean pork with two pounds
of the inside fat; strew over, and mix thoroughly with them three
teaspoonsful of salt, nearly half as much pepper, a half-tablespoonful
of mixed parsley, thyme, and sage (and sweet-basil, if it can be pro-
cured), all minced extremely small. Press the meat closely and
evenly into a shallow tin,-such as are used for Yorkshire puddings
will answer well,--and bake it in a very gentle oven from an hour
o an hour and a half: it is gerved cold in slices. Should the pro-


CHAP. Xu.]
261
PORK.
portion of fat be considered too much, it can be diminished on a
second trial.
Minced mushrooms or truffles may be added with very good effect
to all meat-cakes, or compositions of this kind.
Lean of pork, 1 lb.; fat, 2 lbs.; salt, 3 teaspoonsful; pepper, 1}
teaspoonful; mace, 1 teaspoonful; nutmeg, 1 small; mixed herbs, i
large tablespoonful: 1 to 1 hour.
SAUSAGE-MEAT CAKE, OR, PAIN DE PORC FRAIS.
Season very highly from two to three pounds of good sausage-
meat, both with spices and with sage, or with thyme and parsley,
if these be preferred ; press the mixture into a pan, and pro-
ceed exactly as for the veal-cake of Chapter XI. A few minced
eschalots can be mixed with the meat for those who like their
flavour.
SAUSAGES.
Common farm-house sausages are made with nearly equal parts of
fat and lean pork, coarsely chopped, and seasoned with salt and
pepper only. They are put into skins (which have previously been
turned inside out, scraped very thin, washed with extreme nicety, and
wiped very dry), then twisted into links, and should be hung in a cool
airy larder, when they will remain good for some time. Odd scraps
and trimmings of pork are usually taken for sausage-meat when the
pig is killed and cut up at home; but the chine and blade-bone are
preferred in general for the purpose. The pork rinds, as we have
already stated,* will make a strong and almost favourless jelly,
which may be used with excellent effect for stock, and which, with the
addition of some pork-bones, plenty of vegetables, and some dried
peas, will make a very nutritious soup for those who do not object to
the pork-flavour which the bones will give. Half an ounce of salt,
and nearly or quite a quarter of an ounce of pepper will sufficiently
season each pound of the sausage-meat.
KENTISH SAUSAGE-MEAT.
To three pounds of lean pork, add two of fat, and let both be
taken clear of skin. As sausages are lighter, though not so delicate,
when the meat is somewhat coarsely chopped, this difference should
be attended to in making them. When the fat and lean are partially
mixed, strew over them two ounces and a half of dry salt, beaten to
powder, and mixed with one ounce of ground black pepper, and three
large tablespoonsful of sage, very finely minced. Turn the meat with
he chopping-knife, until the ingredients are well blended. Test it
before it is taken off the block, by frying a small portion, that if more
seasoning be desired, it may at once be added. À full-sized nutmeg,
* See Soupe des Galles, Chapter I.


262
[CHAP. XIII.
MODERN COOKERY.
and a small dessertspoonsful of pounded mace, would, to many
tastes, improve it. This sausage-meat is usually formed into cakes,
which, after being well floured, are roasted in a Dutch oven. They
must be watched, and often turned, that no part may be scorched.
The meat may also be put into skins, and dressed in any other way.
Lean of pork, 3 lbs. ; fat, 2 lbs. ; salt, 2, 02. ; pepper, 1 oz, : minced
sage, 3 large tablespoonsful.
EXCELLENT SAUSAGES.
Chop, first separately, and then together, one pound and a quarter
of veal, perfectly free from fat, skin, and sinew, with an equal weight
of lean pork, and of the inside fat of the pig. Mix well, and strew
over the meat an ounce and a quarter of salt, half an ounce of pep-
per, one nutmeg grated, and a large teaspoonful of pounded mace
Turn, and chop the sausages until they are equally seasoned through-
out, and tolerably fine; press them into a clean pan, and keep them
in a very cool place. Form them, when wanted for table, into cakes
something less than an inch thick; and flour and fry them then for
about ten minutes in a little butter, or roast them in a Dutch or
American oven.
Lean of veal and pork, of each 1 lb. 4 oz.; fat of pork, 1 lb. 4 oz.,
salt, 1} oz. ; pepper, 1 oz.; nutmeg, l; mace, 1 large teaspoonful.
fried in cakes, 10 minutes.
POUNDED SAUSAGE-MEAT.
(Very good.)
Take from the best end of a neck of veal, or from the fillet or loin,
a couple or more pounds of flesh without any intermixture of fat or
skin ; chop it small, and pound it thoroughly in a large mortar, with
half its weight of the inside, or leaf-fat, of a pig; proportion salt and
spice to it by the preceding receipt, form it into cakes, and fry it as
above.
BOILED SAUSAGES. (ENTRÉE.)
In Lincolnshire, sausages are frequently boiled in the skins, and
served upon a toast, as a corner dish. They should be put into
boiling water, and simmered from seven to ten minutes, according to
their size.
SAUSAGES AND CHESTNUTS. (ENTRÉE.)
An excellent dish. (French.)
Roast, and take the husk and skin from forty fine Spanish chest-
nuts; fry gently, in a morsel of butter, six small flat oval cakes of
fine sausage-meat, and when they are well browned, lift them out
and pour into a saucepan, which should be bright in the inside, the
greater part of the fat in which they have been fried ; mix with it a


CHAP XIII.]
PORK.
263
large teaspoonful of flour, and stir these over the fire till they are
well and equally browned ; then pour in by degrees nearly half a
pint of strong beef or veal broth, or gravy, and two glasses of good
white wine ; add a small bunch of savoury herbs, and as much salt
and pepper, or cayenne, as will season the whole properly ; give it a
boil, lay in the sausages round the pan, and the chestnuts in the
centre ; stew them very softly for nearly an hour; take out the
herbs, dish the sausages neatly, and heap the chestnuts in the centre,
strain the sauce over them and serve them very hot. There should
be no sage mixed with the pork to dress thus.
Chestnuts roasted, 40 ; sausages
, 6; gravy, nearly $ pint; sherry
or Madeira, 2 wineglassesful : stewed together from 50 to 60 minutes.
TRUFFLED SAUSAGES.
(Saucisses aur Truffes.)
With two pounds of the lean of young tender pork, mix one pound
of fat, a quarter of a pound of truffles, minced very small, an ounce
and a half of salt, a seasoning of cayenne, or quite half an ounce of
white pepper, a nutmeg, a teaspoonful of freshly pounded mace, and
a dessertspoonful or more of savoury herbs dried and reduced to
powder. Test a morsel of the mixture; heighten any of the season-
ings to the taste; and put the meat into delicately clean skins: if it
be for immediate use, and the addition is liked, moisten it, before it is
dressed, with one or two glassesful of Madeira. The substitution of
a clove of garlic for the truffles, will convert these into Saucisses a
ľ Ail, or garlic sausages.


264
[CHAP. XIV.
MODERN COOKERY.
CHAPTER XIV.
Poultry.

TO CHOOSE POULTRY.
Young, plump, well-fed, but not over-fatted poultry is the best.
The skin of fowls and turkeys should be clear, white, and finely
grained, the breasts broad and full-fleshed, the legs smooth, the toes
pliable and easily broken when bent back; the birds should also be
heavy in proportion to their size. This applies equally to geese and
ducks, of which the breasts likewise should be very plump, and the
feet yellow and flexible: when these are red and hard, the bills of the
same colour, and the skir. full of hairs, and extremely coarse, the
birds are old.
White-legged fowls and chickens should be chosen for boiling,
because their appearance is the most delicate when dressed ; but the
dark-legged ones often prove more juicy and of better flavour when
roasted, and their colour then is immaterial.
Every precaution should be taken to prevent poultry from be-
coming ever so slightly tainted before it is cooked, but unless the
weather be exceedingly sultry, it should not be quite freshly killed •


CHAP. XIV.)
265
POULTRY.
pigeons only are the better for being so, and are thought to lose their
flavour by hanging even a day or two. Turkeys, as we have stated
in our receipts for them, are very tough and poor eating if not suf-
ficiently long kept. A goose, also, in winter, should hang some days
before it is dressed, and fowls, likewise, will be improved by it.
All kinds of poultry should be thoroughly cooked, though without
being overdone, for nothing in general can more effectually destroy
the appetite than the taste and appearance of their flesh when brought
to table half roasted or boiled
TO BONE A FOWL OR TURKEY WITHOUT OPENING IT.
.
After the fowl has been drawn and singed, wipe it inside and out
with a clean cloth, but do not wash it. Take off the head, cut
through the skin all round the first joint of the legs, and pull them
from the fowl, to draw out the large tendons. Raise the flesh first
from the lower part of the back-bone, and a little also from the end
of the breast-bone, if necessary; work the knife gradually to the
socket of the thigh ; with the point of the knife detach the joint from
it, take the end of the bone firmly in the fingers, and cut the flesh
clean from it down to the next joint, round which pass the point of
the knife carefully, and when the skin is loosened from it in every
part, cut round the next bone, keeping the edge of the knife close to
it, until the whole of the leg is done. Remove the bones of the other
leg in the same manner; then detach the flesh from the back and
breast-bone sufficiently to enable you to reach the upper joints of the
wings; proceed with these as with the legs, but be especially careful
not to pierce the skin of the second joint . it is usual to leave the
pinions unboned, in order to give more easily its natural form to the
fowl when it is dressed. The merrythought and neck-bones may
now easily be cut away, the back and side-bones taken out without
being divided, and the breast-bone separated carefully from the flesh
(which, as the work progresses, must be turned back from the bones
upon the fowl, until it is completely inside out). After the one re-
maining bone is removed, draw the wings and legs back to their pro-
per form, and turn the fowl right side outwards.
A turkey is boned exactly in the same manner, but as it requires a
very large proportion of forcemeat to fill it entirely, the legs and
wings are sometimes drawn into the body, to diminish the expense of
this. If very securely trussed, and sewn, the bird may be either
boiled, or stewed in rich gravy, as well as roasted, after being boned
and forced ; but it must be most gently cooled, or it may burst.
ANOTHER MODE OF BONING A FOWL OR TURKEY.
Cut through the skin down the centre of the back, and raise the
flesh carefully on either side with the point of a sharp knife, until the
sockets of the wings and thighs are reached. Till a little practice has


266
[crap. XIV.
MODERN COOKERY.
been gained, it will perhaps be better to bone these joints before pro-
ceeding further ; but after they are once detached from it, the whole
of the body may easily be separated from the fiesh and taken out
entire: only the neck-bones and merrythought will then remain to
be removed. The bird thus prepared may either be restored to its
original form, by filling the legs and wings with forcemeat, and the
body with the livers of two or three fowls mixed with alternate layers
of parboiled tongue freed from the rind, fine sausage meat, or veal
forcemeat, or thin slices of the nicest bacon, or aught else of good
flavour, which will give a marbled appearance to the fowl when it is
carved ; and then be sewn up and trussed as usual ; or the legs and
wings may be drawn inside the body, and the bird being first flattened
on a table may be covered with sausage meat, and the various other
ingredients we have named, so placed that it shall be of equal thick-
ness in every part ; then tightly rolled, bound firmly together with a
fillet of broad tape, wrapped in a thin pudding-cloth, closely tied at
both ends, and dressed as follows :-Put it into a braisingpan, stewpan,
or thick iron saucepan, bright in the inside, and fitted as nearly as
may be to its size; add all the chicken bones, a bunch of sweet herbs,
two carrots, two bay-leaves, a large blade of mace, twenty-four white
peppercorns, and any trimmings or bones of undressed veal which
may be at hand; cover the whole with good veal-broth, add salt, if
needed, and stew it very softly, from an hour and a quarter to an
hour and a half; let it cool in the liquor in which it was stewed; and
after it is lifted out, boil down the gravy to a jelly and strain it; let
it become cold, clear off the fat, and serve it cut into large dice or
roughed, and laid round the fowl, which is to be served cold. If
restored to its form, instead of being rolled, it must be stewed gently
for an hour, and may then be sent to table hot, covered with mush-
room, or any other good sauce that may be preferred; or it may be
left until the following day, and served garnished with the jelly,
which should be firm, and very clear and well-flavoured; the liquor
in which a calf's foot has been boiled down, added to the broth,
will give it the necessary degree of consistence. French cooks add
three or four onions to these preparations of poultry (the last of
which is called a galantine); but these our own taste would lead us to
reject.
Rolled, 14 to 1} hour; galantine, 1 hour.
Obs.-A couple of fowls, boned and rolled, make an excellent pie.
TO BONE FOWLS FOR FRICASSERS, CURRIES, AND PIFS.
First carve them entirely into joints, then remove the bones, be-
ginning with the legs and wings, at the head of the largest bone; hold
this with the fingers, and work the knife as directed in tbe receipt
above. The remainder of the birds is too easily done to require any
instructions.


CHAP. XIV.]
267
POULTRY.
TO ROAST A TURKEY.
In very cold weather a turkey
in its feathers will hang (in an airy
larder) quite a fortnight with ad-
vantage ; and, however fine a
quality of bird it may be, unless
sufficiently long kept, it will prove
not worth the dressing, though it
should always be perfectly sweet
when prepared for table. Pluck,
Turkey for roasting.
draw, and singe it with exceeding care; wash, and then dry it tho-
roughly with clean cloths, or merely wipe the outside well, without
wetting it, and pour water plentifully through the inside. Fill the
breast with forcemeat (No. 1, Chapter VIII.), or with the finest
sausage meat, highly seasoned with minced herbs, lemon-rind, mace,
and
cayenne. Truss the bird firmly, lay it to a clear sound fire,
baste it constantly and bountifully with butter, and serve it when
done with good brown gravy, and well-made bread sauce. An entire
chain of delicate fried sausages is still often placed in the dish,
round a turkey, as a garnish.
It is usual to fold and fasten a sheet of buttered writing paper over
the breast to prevent its being too much coloured : this should be
removed twenty minutes before the bird is done. The forcemeat of
chestnuts (No. 15, Chapter VIII.) may be very advantageously sub-
stituted for the commoner kinds in stuffing it, and the body may then
be filled with chestnuts, previously stewed until tender in rich gravy,
or simmered over a slow fire in plenty of rasped bacon, with a high
seasoning of mace, nutmeg, and cayenne, until they are so; or, instead
of this, well-made chestnut sauce, or a dish of stewed chestnuts, may
be sent to table with the turkey.
Obs. 1.—Baron Liebig's improved method of roasting will be found at
p. 171, and can be followed always instead of the directions given here.
1} to 21 hours.
Obs. 2.-A turkey should be laid at first far from the fire, and
drawn nearer when half done, though never sufficiently so to scorch
it; it should be well roasted, for even the most inveterate advocates
of under - dressed meat will seldom tolerate the taste or sight of
partially-raw poultry
TO BOIL A TURKEY.
A delicate but plump hen-
turkey of moderate size should be
selected for boiling. Free the skin
most carefully from all the stumps,
and draw the bird, using the
greatest precaution not to break
the gall bladder; singe it with
writing paper, take off the head Turkey for boiling.


268
[CHAP. XIV.
MODERN COOKERY.
and neck, cut through the skin round the first joint of the legs,
and draw them off : this is best accomplished by fastening the
feet to a strong hook, and then pulling the bird away from it. Wash
it exceedingly clean, and then wipe it dry, fill the breast with the
forcemeat No. 1 or 2 of Chapter VIII., or with the oyster, chestnut.
or French_forcemeat, of which the receipts are given in the same
chapter. In trussing it draw the legs into the body, break the
breast-bone, and give the turkey as round and plump an appearance
as can be. Put it into plenty of warm water, or into as much
boiling water as will rise about an inch over it, and when it has
quite boiled for ten minutes, cool it down by the addition of cold
water, and then take out a portion of it, leaving only as much as
will keep the bird thoroughly covered until it is ready for table. *
Clear off the scum with the greatest care as it is thrown to the
surface, and boil the bird very gently from an hour and a half to two
hours and a quarter. A very large turkey would require a longer
time, but it is unsuited to this mode of cooking. When the oyster-
forcemeat is used, a large tureen of rich oyster sauce should accom-
pany the dish ; but celery sauce, or good white sauce, may otherwise
be sent to table with it; and a boiled tongue or a small ham is
usually served in addition. For a plain family dinner, a delicate
cheek of bacon is sometimes substituted for either of these, and
parsley and butter for a more expensive sauce. Fust boiling will
cause the skin of the bird to break, and must therefore be especially
avoided : it should hang for some days before it is dressed, for if
quite freshly killed it will not be tender, but it must be perfectly
sweet to be fit for table. Truss the turkey by the directions of
introductory chapter on trussing.
Moderate-sized turkey, 1} to 2 hours; large turkey, longer; very
small one, less time.
TURKEY BONED AND FORCED.
(An excellent dish.)
Take a small, well-kept, but quite sweet hen-turkey, of from
seven to eight pounds weight, and remove, by the receipt for a fowl
(page 265), all the bones except those of the pinions, without opening
the bird ; draw it into shape, and fill it entirely with exceedingly
fine sausage meat, beginning with the legs and wings; plump the
breast well in preparing it, and when its original form is quite
restored, tie it securely at both ends, and at the extremities of the
legs; pass a slight iron skewer through these and the body, and
another through the wings and body; then lay a twine over the
back of the turkey, and pass it under the ends of the first skewer
cross it in the centre of the back, and pass it under the ends of the
* As we have elsewhere stated, all meat and fish are injured by being cooked
á much larger quantity of water than is absolutely required for them.


CHAP, XIV.)
269
POULTRY.
second skewer; then carry it over the pinions to keep them firmly
in their place, and fasten it at the neck. When a cradle spit, of
which the engraving below shows the form, and which opens with a
joint to receive the roast, is not at hand, a bottle jack will be found more
Cradle Spit.
convenient than any other for holding the turkey; and after the hook of
this is passed through the neck, it must be further supported by a string
running across the back and under the points of the skewer which
confines the pinions to the hook; for, otherwise, its weight would
most probably cause it to fall. Flour it well, place it far from the
fire until it is heated through, and baste it plentifully and incessantly
with butter. An hour and three quarters will roast it well. Break
and boil down the bones for gravy in a pint and a half of water,
or good veal broth, with a little salt, a few slices of celery a dozen
corns of pepper, and a branch or two of parsley. Brown gently in a
morsel of fresh butter, a couple of ounces of lean ham, add to them a
slight dredging of flour, and a little cayenne, and pour to them the
broth from the bones, after it has boiled for an hour, and been strained
and skimmed; shake the stewpan well round, and stew the gravy
until it is wanted for table; clear it entirely from fat, strain, and
serve it very hot. An eschalot or half an onion may be browned
with the ham when either is liked, but their flavour is not, we think,
appropriate to poultry.
The turkey may be partially filled with the forcemeat No 1 or 3
of Chapter VIII., and the sausage-meat may then be placed on either
side of it.
Hen turkey between 7 and 8 lbs. weight, boned, filled with
sausage-meat, 3 to 4 lbs. ; or with forcemeat No. 1, or with No. 3,
Chapter VI., 1 lb. (that is to say, 1 lb. of bread-crumbs, and the
other ingredients in proportion.) Sausage-meat, 2 to 3 lbs. roasted
14 hour.
Obs.-When a common spit is used for the turkey, it must be
fastened to, and not put upon it.
Bread sauce can be served with the bird, or not, at pleasure.
It will be found an improvement to moisten the sausage-meat with
two or three spoonsful of water: it should be finely minced, well
spiced, and mixed with herbs, when the common forcemeat is not
used in addition. In preparing it a pound and a quarter of fat
should be mixed with each pound of the lean.
To give the turkey a very good appearance, the breast may
larded by the directions of page 181.
be


270
[CHAP. XIV.
MODERN COOKERY.
TURKEY A LA FLAMANDE, OR, DINDE POUDRÉE.
Prepare as for boiling a fine well-kept hen turkey; wipe the
aside thoroughly with a dry cloth, but do not wash it; throw in a
little salt to draw out the blood, let it remain a couple of hours or
more, then drain and wipe it again; next, rub the outside in every
part with about four ounces of fine dry salt, mixed with a large
tablespoonful of pounded sugar; rub the turkey well with these,
and turn it every day for four days; then fill it entirely with equal
parts of choice sausage-meat, and of the crumb of bread soaked in
boiling milk or cream, and wrung dry in a cloth; season these with
the grated rind of a large lemon and nutmeg, mace, cayenne, and
fine herbs, in the same proportion as for veal forcemeat (No. 1,
Chapter VIII). Sew the turkey up very securely, and when
trussed, roll it in a cloth, tie it closely at both ends, put it into
boiling water, and boil it very gently between three and four hours.
When taken up, sprinkle it thickly with fine crumbs of bread,
mixed with plenty of parsley, shred extremely small. Serve it cold,
with a sauce made of the strained juice and grated rind of two
lemons, a teaspoonful of made mustard, and one of pounded sugar,
with as much oil as will prevent its being more than pleasantly
acid, and a little salt, if needed; work these together until perfectly
mixed, and send them to table in a tureen.
This receipt was given to us abroad, by a Flemish lady, who had
had the dish often served with great success in Paris. We have in-
serted it on her authority, not on our own experience; but we think
it may be quite depended on.
TO ROAST A TURKEY POULT.
[The turkey-poult is in season whenerer it is of sufficient size to serve. In
th, earlier spring months it very high in price, but in summer,
as the
autumn advances, may be had at a more reasonable cost. The great demand
for turkeys in England towards Christmas, and the care which they require in
being reared, causes them to be brought much less abundantly into the markets
when young, than they are in foreign countries; in many of which they are
very plentiful and very cheap.]
A turkey-poult or half grown turkey, makes a delicate roast,
which some persons much prefer to the full-grown bird. It is served
with the head on, but is generally in other respects trussed like a
capon or a large fowl, except for fashionable tables, for which it is
sometimes arranged with the legs twisted back at the first joint, and
the feet brought close to the thighs in the same manner as ihose of a
woode It should be well asted with good butter, and will
require from an hour to an hour and a quarter's roasting. If for
the second course, it may be dished on water-cresses : pour a little
gravy round it in the dish, and send more to table with it in a tureen.


CHAP. XIV.]
271
POULTRY.
TO ROAST A GOOSE.
[In best season from September to March.]
After it has been plucked and singed with care, put into the body
of the goose two parboiled onions of
moderate size finely chopped, and mixed
with half an ounce of minced sage-leaves,
a saltspoonful of salt, and half
as much
black pepper, or a proportionate quantity
of cayenne; to these add a small slice of
fresh" butter. Truss the goose, and after
Goose for roasting,
it is on the spit, tie it firmly at both ends
that it may turn steadily, and that the seasoning may not escape ; roast
it at a brisk fire, and keep it constantly basted. Serve it with brown
gravy, and apple or tomata sauce. When the taste is in favour of a
stronger seasoning than the above, which occurs we apprehend but
seldom, use raw onions for it and increase the quantity; but should one
still milder be preferred, mix a handful of fine bread-crumbs with the
other ingredients, or two or three minced apples. The body of a goose is
sometimes filled entirely with mashed potatoes, which, for this
purpose, ought to be boiled very dry, and well blended with two or
three ounces of butter, or with some thick cream, some salt, and
white pepper or cayenne: to these minced sage and parboiled onions
can also be added at pleasure. A teaspoonful of made-mustard, half
as much of salt, and a small portion of cayenne, smoothly mixed
with a glass of port wine, are sometimes poured into the goose just
before it is served, through a cut made in the apron.
1} to 14 hour..
Obs.-We extract, for the benefit of our readers, from a work in
our possession, the following passage, of which we have had no
opportunity of testing the correctness. “ Geese, with sage and
onions, may be deprived of power to breathe forth any incense, thus:
Pare from a lemon all the yellow rind, taking care not to bruise the
fruit nor to cut so deeply as to let out the juice. Place this lemon
in the centre of the seasoning within the bird. When or before it is
brought to table, let the flap be gently opened, remove the lemon
with a tablespoon; avoid breaking, and let it instantly be thrown
away, as its white pithy skin will have absorbed all the gross par-
ticles which else would bave escaped.”

TO ROAST A GREEN GOOSE.
Season the inside with a little pepper and salt, and roast the goose
at a brisk fire from forty to fifty minutes. Serve it with good brown
gravy only. To this sorrel-sauce is sometimes added at not very
modern English tables. Green geese are never stuffed.


272
[CHAP. IIV.
MODERN COOKERY.
TO ROAST A FOWL.
(Fowls are always in season when they can be procured sufficiently young to
be tender. About February they become dear and scarce; and small spring
chickens are generaliy very expensive. As summer advances they decline in
price.)
Strip off the feathers, and care-
fully pick every stump from the
skin, as nothing can be more un-
inviting than the appearance of any
kind of poultry where this has been
neglected, nor more indicative of
Fowl for roasting.
slovenliness on the part of the
cook. Take off the head and neck
close to the body, but leave sufficient of the skin to tie over the part
that is cut. In drawing the bird, do not open it more than is needful,
and use great precaution to avoid breaking the gall-bladder. Hold the
legs in boiling water for two or three minutes that the skin may be
peeled from them easily; cut the claws, and then, with a bit of lighted
writing-paper, singe off the hairs without blackening the fowl.
Wash, and wipe it afterwards very dry, and let the liver
and gizzard
be made delicately clean, and fastened into the pinions. Truss and
spit it firmly; flour it well when first laid to the fire, baste it fre-
quently with butter, and when it is done draw out the skewers, dish
it, pour a little good gravy over, and send it to table with bread,
mushroom, egg, chestnut, or olive sauce. A common mode of serv-
ing roast fowls in France is aux cressons, that is, laid upon young
water-cresses,* which have previously been freed from the outer
leaves, thoroughly washed, shaken dry in a clean eloth, and sprinkled
with a little fine salt, and sometimes with a small quantity of
vinegar: these should cover the dish, and after the fowls are placed
on them, gravy should be poured over as usual.
The body of a fowl may be filled with very small mushrooms
prepared as for partridges (see partridges with mushrooms), then
sewn up, roasted, and served with mushroom-sauce : this is an
excellent mode of dressing it. A little rasped bacon, or a bit or
two of the lean of beef or veal minced, or cut into dice, may be put
inside the bird when either is considered an improvement ; but
its own liver, or that of another fowl, will be found to impart a much
finer flavour than any of these last; and so likewise will a teaspoonful
of really good mushroom-powder smoothly mixed with a slice of good
butter, and a seasoning of fine salt and cayenne.f
Full-sized fowl, 1 hour : young chicken, 25 to 35 minutes.
• This is done with many other roasts which are served in the second course;
but the vinegar is seldom added in this country.
+ We cannot much recommend these mere superfluities of the table.


CHAP. XIV.]
273
POULTRY.
Obs.-As we have already observed in our general remarks on
roasting, the time must be regulated by various circumstances
which we named, and which the cook should always take into con-
sideration. A buttered paper should be fastened over the breast, and
removed about fifteen minutes before the fowl is served : this will
prevent its taking too much colour.
ROAST FOWL.
(A French Receipt.)
Fill the breast of a fine fowl with good forcemeat, roast it as usual,
and when it is very nearly ready to serve take it from the fire, pour
lukewarm butter over it in every part, and strew it thickly with very
fine bread-crumbs ; sprinkle these again with butter, and dip the
fowl into more crumbs. Put it down to the fire, and when it is of a
clear, light brown all over, take it carefully from the spit, dish, and
serve it with lemon-sauce, and with gravy thickened and mixed with
plenty of minced parsley, or with brown gravy and any other sauce
usually served with fowls Savoury herbs shred small, spice, and
lemon-grate, may be mixed with the crumbs at pleasure. Do not
pour gravy over the fowl when it is thus prepared.
TO ROAST A GUINEA FOWL.
Let the bird hang for as many days as the weather will allow; then
stuff, truss, roast, and serve it like a turkey, or leave the head on and
lard the breast. Send gravy and bread-sauce to table with it in
either case: it will be found excellent eating.
to 1 hour.
FOWL A LA CARLSFORS. (ENTRÉE.)
Bone a fowl without opening the back, and restore it to its original
form by filling the vacant spaces in the legs and wings with force-
meat; put a roll of it also into the body, and a large sausage freed
from the skin on either side; tie it very securely at both ends, truss
it with fine skewers, and roast it for a full hour, keeping it basted
plentifully with butter. When appearance is not regarded, the
pinions may be taken off, and the legs and wings drawn inside the
fowl, which will then require a much smaller proportion of force-
meat:—that directed for veal will answer quite well in a general
way, but for a dinner of ceremony, No. 17 or 18 of the same Chapter,
should be used in preference. The fowl must be tied securely to the
spit, not put upon it. Boned chickens are excellent when entirely
filled with well-made mushroom forcemeat, or very delicate and
nicely seasoned sausage-meat, and either roasted or stewed. Brown
gravy, or mushroom sauce should then be sent to table with them.
T


274
[CHAP. XIV.
MODERN COOKERY.
BOILED FOWLS.
White-legged poultry should
always be selected for boiling
as it is of better colour when
dressed than any other. Truss
the fowls firmly and neatly, with
the legs drawn into the bodies,
and the wings twisted over the
Fowl for boiling.
backs; let them be well covered
with water, which should be hot,
but not boiling when they are put in. A full-sized fowl will re-
quire about three quarters of an hour from the time of its beginning
to simmer ; but young chickens not more than from twenty to
twenty-five minutes : they should be very gently boiled, and the scum
should be removed with great care as it gathers on the surface of the
water. Either of the following sauces may be sent to table with
them: parsley and butter, béchamel, English white sauce, oyster,
celery, or white-mushroom sauce. The fowls are often dished
with small tufts of delicately boiled cauliflower placed round them;
or with young vegetable marrow scarcely larger than an egg,
merely pared and halved after it is dressed : white sauce must be
served with both of these. The livers and gizzards are not, at
the present day, ever served in the wings of boiled fowls. The
livers may be simmered for four or five minutes, then pressed to a
smooth paste with a wooden spoon, and mixed very gradually with
the sauce, which should not boil after they are added.
Full-sized fowl, 4 hour: young chickens, 20 to 25 minutes.
Obs.-Rather less than half a gallon of cold added to an equal
quantity of boiling water, will bring it to the proper degree of heat
for putting in the fowls, or the same directions may be observed for
them as those given for a boiled turkey. For richer modes of
boiling poultry, see Blanc and Poêlée, Chapter IX.

TO BROIL A CHICKEN OR FOWL.
Either of these, when merely split and broiled, is very dry and
unsavoury eating ; but will be greatly improved if first boiled gently
from five to ten minutes and left to become cold, then divided, dipped
into egg and well seasoned bread-crumbs, plentifully sprinkled with
clarified butter, dipped again into the crumbs, and broiled over a clear
and gentle fire from half to three quarters of an hour It should be
served very hot, with mushroom-sauce or with a little good plain
gravy, which may be thickened and flavoured with a teaspoonful of
mushroom-powder mixed with half as much flour and a little butter;
or with some Espagnole. It should be opened at the back, and
evenly divided quite through; the legs should be trussed like


CHAP. XIV.]
275
POULTRY.
those of a boiled fowl ; the breast - bone, or hat of the back
may be removed at pleasure, and both sides of the bird should be
made as flat as they can be that the fire may penetrate every part
equally: the inside should be first laid towards it. The neck, feet
and gizzard may be boiled down with a small quantity of onion and
carrot, previously browned in a morsel of butter to make the gravy;
and the liver, after having been simmered with them for five or six
minutes, may be used to thicken it after it is strained. A teaspoonful
of lemon-juice, some cayenne, and minced parsley should be added to
it, and a little arrow-root, or four and butter.
* to i hour.
FRICA SSEED FOWLS OR CHICKENS. (ENTRÉE.)
To make a fricassee of good appearance without great expense,
prepare, with exceeding nicety, a couple of plump chickens, strip off
the skin, and carve them very neatly. Reserve the wings, breasts,
merrythoughts, and thighs; and stew down the inferior joints with a
couple of blades of mace, a small bunch of savoury herbs, a few white
peppercorns, a pint and a half of water, and a small half-teaspoonful
of salt. When something more than a third part reduced, strain
the
gravy, let it cool, and skim off every particle of fat. Arrange
the joints which are to be fricasseed in one layer if it can be done
conveniently, and pour to them as much of the gravy as will nearly
cover them; add the very thin rind of half a fine fresh lemon, and
simmer the fowls gently from half to three quarters of an hour ;
throw in sufficient salt, pounded mace, and cayenne, to give the sauce
a good flavour, thicken it with a large teaspoonful of arrow-root, and
stir to it the third of a pint of rich boiling cream; then lift the
stewpan from the fire, and shake it briskly round while the beaten
yolks of three fresh eggs, mixed with a spoonful or two of cream, are
added; continue to shake the pan gently above the fire till the sauce
is just set, but it must not be allowed to boil, or it will curdle in an
instant.
} to hour.
ENGLISH CHICKEN CUTLETS. (ENTRÉE).
Skin and cut into joints one or two young chickens, and remove
the bones with care from the breasts, merrythoughts, and thighs,
which are to be separated from the legs. Mix well together a tea-
spoonful of salt, nearly a fourth as much of mace, a little grated nut-
meg, and some cayenne; flatten and form into good shape, the boned
joints of chicken, and the flesh of the wings; rub a little of the sea-
soning over them in every part, dip them into beaten egg, and then
into very fine bread-crumbs, and fry them gently in fresh butter
until they are of a delicate brown. Some of the bones and trimmings
may be boiled down in half a pint of water, with a roll of lemon-peel,
a little salt, and eight or ten white peppercorns, to make the gravy


276
[CHAP. XIV.
MODERN COOKERY.
which, after being strained and cleared from fat, may be poured hot
to some thickening made in the pan with a slice of fresh butter and
a dessertspoonful of flour: a teaspoonful of mushroom-powder would
improve it greatly, and a small quantity of lemon-juice should be
added before it is poured out, with salt and cayenne if required.
Pile the cutlets high in the centre of the dish, and serve the sauce
under them, or in a tureen.
CUTLETS OF Fowls, PARTRIDGES, OR PIGEONS. (ENTRÉE.)
(French Receipt.)
Take closely off the flesh of the breast and wing together, on either
side of the bone, and when the large fillets, as they are called, are thus
raised from three birds, which will give but six cutlets, take the strips
of flesh that lie under the wings, and that of the merrythoughts, and
flatten two or three of these together, that there may be nine cutlets
at least, of equal size. When all are ready, fry to a pale brown as
many diamond-shaped sippets of bread as there are fillets of fowl, and
let them be quite as large; place these beföre the fire to dry, and
wipe out the pan. Dip the cutlets into some yolks of eggs, mixed
with a little clarified butter, and strew them in every part with the
finest bread-crumbs, moderately seasoned with salt, cayenne, and
pounded mace. Dissolve as much good butter as will be required to
dress them, and fry them in it of a light amber-colour : arrange them
upon the sippets of bread, pile them high in the dish, and pour a rich
brown gravy or Espagnole round, but not over them.
FRIED CHICKEN A LA MALABAR. (ENTRÉE.)
This is an Indian dish. Cut up the chicken, wipe it dry, and rub
it well with currie-powder mixed with a little salt; fry it in a bit of
butter, taking care that it is of a nice light brown. In the mean time
cut two or three onions into thin slices, draw them out into rings, and
cut the rings into little bits about half an inch long; fry them for a
long time gently in a little clarified butter, until they have gradually
dried up and are of a delicate yellow-brown. Be careful that they
are not burnt, as the burnt taste of a single bit would spoil the flavour
of the whole. When they are as dry as chips, without the least
grease or moisture upon them, mix a little salt with them, strew them
over the fried chicken, and serve up with lemon on a plate.
We have extracted this receipt from a clever little work called the
“ Hand-Book of Cookery.”
HASHED FOWL. (ENTRÉE.)
After having taken off in joints, as much of a cold fowl or fowls as
will suffice for a dish, bruise the bodies with a paste roller, pour to
them a pint of water, and boil them for an hour and a half to two


CHAP. XIV ]
277
POULTRY.
hours, with the addition of a little pepper and salt only, or with a
small quantity of onion, carrot, and savoury herbs. Strain, and skim
the fat from the gravy, put it into a clean saucepan, and, should it
require thickening, stir to it, when it boils, half a teaspoonful of four
smoothly mixed with a small bit of butter ; add a little mushroom
catsup, or other store-sauce, with a slight seasoning of mace or nut-
meg. Lay in the fowl, and keep it near the fire until it is heated
quite through, and is at the point of boiling: serve it with fried
sippets round the dish. For a hash of higher relish, add to the bones
when they are first stewed down a large onion minced and browned
in butter, and before the fowl is dished, add some cayenne and the
juice of half a lemon.
FOWL.
FRENCH AND OTHER RECEIPTS FOR MINCED
(ENTRÉE.)
Raise from the bones all the more delicate parts of the flesh of
either cold roast, or of cold boiled fowls, clear it from the skin, and
keep it covered from the air until it is wanted for use. Boil the
bones well bruised, and the skin, with three quarters of a pint of
water until reduced quite half; then strain the gravy and let it cool;
next, having first skimmed off the fat, put it into a clean saucepan,
with a quarter of a pint of cream, an ounce and a half of butter well
mixed with a dessertspoonful of flour, and a little pounded mace, and
grated lemon-rind; keep these stirred until they boil, then put in the
fowl, finely minced, with three or four hard-boiled eggs chopped
small, and sufficient salt, and white pepper or cayenne, to season it
properly. Shake the mince over the fire until it is just ready to
boil, stir to it quickly a squeeze of lemon-juice, dish it with pale
sippets of fried bread, and serve it immediately. When c´eam cannot
easily be obtained, use milk, with a double quantity of butter and
flour. To make an English mince, omit the hard eggs, heat the Cowl
in the preceding sauce or in a common béchamel, or white sauce, dish
it with small delicately poached eggs (those of the guinea-fowl or
bantam for example), laid over it in a circle and send it quickly to
table. Another excellent variety of the dist is also made by covering
the fowl thickly with very fine bread-crumbs, moistening them with
clarified butter, and giving them colour with salamander, or in a
quick oven.*
FRITOT OF COLD FOWLS
Cut into joints and take the skin from some cold fowls, lay them
into a deep dish, strew over them a little fine salt and cayenne, add
the juice of a lemon, and let them remain for an hour, moving them
occasionally that they may all absorb a portion of the acid; then dip
them one by one into some French batter (see Chapter V.), and fry
theia a pale brown over a gentle fire. Serve them garnished with
• For minoed fowl and oysters, follow the receipt for veal, page 231.


278
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. XI.
very green crisped parsley. A few drops of eschalot vinegar may be
mixed with the lemon-juice which is poured to the fowls, or slices of
raw onion or eschalot, and small branches of sweet herbs may be laid
amongst them, and cleared off before they are dipped into the batter.
Gravy made of the trimmings, thickened, and well flavoured, may be
sent to table with them in a tureen; and dressed bacon (see page
259), in a dish apart.
SCALLOPS OF FOWL AU BECHAMEL. (ENTRÉE.)
Raise the flesh from a couple of fowls as directed for cutlets in the
foregoing receipt, and take it as entire as possible from either side of
the breast ; strip off the skin, lay the fillets flat, and slice them into
small thin scallops ; dip them one by one into clarified butter, and
arrange them evenly in a delicately clean and not large frying-pan ;
sprinkle a seasoning of fine salt over, and just before the dish is
wanted for table, fry them quickly without allowing them to brown;
drain them well from the butter, pile them in the centre of a hot
dish, and sauce them with some boiling béchamel. This dish may be
quickly prepared by taking a ready-dressed fowl from the spit or
stew pan, and by raising the fillets, and slicing the scallops into the
boiling sauce before they have had time to cool.
Fried, 3 to 4 minutes.
GRILLADE OF COLD FOWLS,
Carve and soak the remains of roast fowls as for the fritot which
precedes, wipe them dry, dip them into clarified butter, and then into
fine bread-crumbs, and broil them gently over a very clear fire. A
little finely-minced lean of ham or grated lemon-peel, with a season-
ing of cayenne, salt, and mace, mixed with the crumbs will vary this
dish agreeably. When fried instead of broiled, the fowls may be
dipped into yolk of egg instead of butter; but this renders them too
dry for broiling.
FOWLS A LA MAYONNAISE.
Carve with great nicety a couple of cold roast fowls ; place the
inferior joints, if they are served at all, close together in the middle
of a dish, and arrange the others round and over them, piling them
high in the centre Garnish them with the hearts of young lettuces
cut in two, and hard-boiled eggs, halved lengthwise. At the moment
of serving, pour over the fowls a well-made mayonnaise sauce (see
Chapter VI.), or, if preferred, an English salad-dressing, compounded
rith thick cream, instead of oil.


CHAP. XIV.]
279
POULTRY.
TO ROAST DUCKS.
(Ducks are in season all the year, but are thought to be in their perfection
about June or early in July. Ducklings (or half-grown ducks) are in the
greatest request in spring, when there is no game in the market, and other
poultry is somewhat scarce.]
In preparing these for the spit, be
careful to clear the skin entirely
from the stumps of the feathers;
take off the heads and necks, but
leave the feet on, and hold them for
a few minutes in boiling water to
loosen the skin, which must be
peeled off. Wash the inside of the
birds by pouring water through
Ducks trussed.
them, but merely wipe the outsides
with a dry cloth. Put into the bodies a seasoning of parboiled
onions mixed with minced sage, salt, pepper, and a slice of butter
when this mode of dressing them is liked; but as the taste of a whole
party is seldom in its favour, one, when a couple are roasted, is often
served without the stuffing. Cut off the pinions at the first joint
from the bodies, truss the feet behind the backs, spit the birds firmly,
and roast them at a brisk fire, but do not place them sufficiently near
to be scorched; baste them constantly, and when the breasts are well
plumped, and the steam from them draws towards the fire, dish, and
serve them quickly with a little good brown gravy poured round
them, and some also in a tureen ; or instead of this, with some which
has been made with the necks, gizzards, and livers well stewed down,
with a slight seasoning of browned onion, some herbs, and spice.
Young ducks, $ hour: full sized, from 1 to 1 hour.
Obs.Olive-sauce may be served with roast as well as with stewed
ducks.
STEWED DUCK. (ENTRÉE.)
A couple of quite young ducks, or a fine, full-grown, but still
tender one, will be required for this dish. Cut either down neatly
into joints, and arrange them in a single layer if possible, in a wide
stewpan; pour in about three quarters of a pint of strong cold beef
stock or gravy; let it be well cleared from scum when it begins to
boil, then throw in a little salt, a rather full seasoning of cayenne,
and a few thin strips of lemon-rind. Simmer the ducks very softly
for three quarters of an hour, or somewhat longer should the joints
be large; then stir into the gravy a tablespoonful of the finest rice-
flour, mixed with a wineglassful or rather more of port wine, and a
dessertspoonful of lemon-juice: in ten minutes after, dish the stew
and send it to table instantly


280
[CHAP. XIV.
MODERN COOKERY.
The ducks may be served with a small portion only of their sauce,
and dished in a circle, with green peas à la Francaise heaped high in
the centre: the lemon-rind and port wine should then be altogether
omitted, and a small bunch of green onions and parsley, with two or
three young carrots, may be stewed down with the birds, or three or
four minced eschalots, delicately fried in butter, may be used to
flavour the gravy.
The turnips au beurre, prepared by the receipt
of Chapter XVII., may be substituted for the peas; and a well made
Espagnole may take the place of beef stock, when a dish of high
savour is wished for. A duck is often stewed without being divided
into joints. It should then be firmly trussed, half roasted at a quick
fire, and laid into the stewpan as it is taken from the spit ; or well
browned in some French thickening, then half covered with boiling
gravy, and turned when partially done: from an hour to an hour
and a quarter will stew it well.
TO ROAST PIGEONS.
[In season from March to Michaelmas, and whenever they can be had young.]
These, as we have already said, should be dressed while they are
very fresh. If extremely young they will be ready in twelve hours
for the spit, otherwise, in twenty-four. Take off the heads and
necks, and cut off the toes at the first joint
draw them carefully, and pour plenty of
water through them : wipe them dry, and
put into each bird a small bit of butter
lightly dipped into a little cayenne (for-
merly it was rolled in minced parsley, but
this is no longer the fashionable mode of
preparing them). Truss the wings over
Pigeons for roasting,
the backs, and roast them at a brisk fire,
keeping them well and constantly basted with butter. Serve them
with brown gravy, and a tureen of parsley and butter. For the
second course, dish them upon young water-cresses, as directed for
roast fowl aux cressons, page 272. About twenty minutes will roast
them.
18 to 20 minutes; five minutes longer, if large ; rather less, if very
young
BOILED PIGEONS.
Truss them like boiled fowls, drop them into plenty of boiling
water, throw in a little salt, and in fifteen minutes lift them out,
pour parsley and butter over, and send a tureen of it to table with
thern.


CHAP. XV.)
281
GAME.
CHAPTER XV.
Game.

TO CHOOSE GAME.
Buck venison, which is in season only from June to Michaelmas,
is considered finer than doe venison, which comes into the market in
October, and remains in season through November and December :
neither should be cooked at any other part of the year. The
greater the depth of fat upon the haunch the better the quality of
the meat will be provided it be clear and white, and the lean of a
dark hue. If the cleft of the hoof, which is always left on the joint,
be small and smooth, the animal is young; but it is old when the
marks are the reverse of these. * Although the haunch is the prime
and favourite joint of venison, the neck and shoulder are also
excellent, dressed in various ways, and make much approved pies or
pasties as they are usually called. If kept to the proper point, and
well dressed, this is the most tender of all meat; but care is
necessary to bring it into a fitting state for table without its be-
* It must be observed that venison is not in perfection when young : like
mutton, it requires to be of a certain age before it is brought to table. The
word cleft applies also to the thickest part of the haunch, and it is the depth of
the fa: on this which decides the quality of the joint.


282
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. XV.
coming offensive. A free current of air in a larder is always a great
advantage, as it assists materially in preserving the sweetness of
every thing which is kept in it, while a close damp atmosphere, on
the contrary, is more destructive of animal food of all kinds even
than positive heat. The fumes of creosote are said to be an
adınirable preservative against putrescence, but we have not our-
selves yet had experience of the fact. All moisture should be wiped
daily, or even more frequently, from the venison, with soft cloths,
when any appears upon the surface; and every precaution must be
taken to keep off the flies, when the joint is not hung in a wire-safe.
Black pepper thickly powdered on it will generally answer the
purpose: with common care, indeed, meat may always be protected
from their attacks, and to leave it exposed to them in warm weather
is altogether inexcusable in the cook.
Hares and rabbits are stiff when freshly killed, and if young, the
ears tear easily, and the claws are smooth and sharp. A hare in
cold weather will remain good from ten to fourteen days; care only
must be taken to prevent the inside from becoming musty, which it
will do if it has been emptied in the field. Pheasants, partridges,
and other game may be chosen by nearly the same tests as poultry :
by opening the bill, the staleness will be detected easily if they have
been too long kept. With few exceptions, game depends almost
entirely for the fine flavour and the tenderness of its flesh, on the
time which it is allowed to hang before it is cooked, and it is never
good when very fresh ; but it does not follow that it should be sent
to table in a really offensive state, for this is agreeable to few eaters
and disgusting to many, and nothing should at any time be served
of which the appearance or the odour may destroy the appetite of any
person present.
TO ROAST A HAUNCH OF VENISON.
To give venison the flavour
and the tenderness so much
prized by epicures, it must be
well kept; and by taking the
necessary precautions, it will
hang
a considerable time
without detriment. Wipe it
with soft dry cloths wherever
the slightest moisture appears on the surface, and dust it plentifully
with freshly-ground pepper or powdered ginger, to preserve it from
the flies. The application of the pyroligneous or acetic acid would
effectually protect it from these, as well
as from the effects of the
weather ; but the joint must then be, not only well washed, but
soaked for some considerable time, and this would be very detrimental.
To prepare the venison for the spit, wash it slightly with tepid
water or merely wipe it thoroughly with damp cloths, and dry it
afterwards with clean ones; then lay over the fat side a large sheet


CHAP. XV.]
283
GAME.
of thickly-buttered paper, and next a paste of four and water about
three quarters of an inch thick ; cover this again with two or three
sheets of stout paper, secure the whole well with twine, and lay the
haunch to a sound clear fire ; baste the paper immediately with
butter or clarified dripping, and roast the joint from three hours and
a half to four and a half, according to its weight and quality. Doe
venison will require half an hour less time than buck venison.
Twenty minutes before the joint is done remove the paste and paper,
baste the meat in every part with butter, and dredge it very lightly
with flour; let it take a pale brown colour, and send it to table as hot
as possible with gravy in a tureen, and good currant jelly. It is not
now customary to serve any other sauces with it; but should the old-
fashioned sharp or sweet sauce be ordered, the receipt for it will be
found at page 100.
34 to 41 hours.
Obs.- The kind of gravy appropriate to venison is a matter on
which individual taste must decide. When preparations of high
savour are preferred to the pure flavour of the game, the Espagnole
(or Spanish sauce) of Chapter IV. can be sent to table with it ; or
either of the rich English gravies which precede it. When a simple
unflavoured one is better liked, some mutton cutlets freed entirely
from fat, then very slightly broiled over a quick fire, and stewed
gently down in a light extract of mutton prepared by Liebeg's direc-
tions, Chapter I., for about an hour, will produce an excellent plain
gravy : it should be seasoned with salt and pepper (or fine cayenne)
only. When venison abounds, it should be used for the gravy
instead of mutton.
TO STEW A SHOULDER OF VENISON.
Bone the joint, by the directions given for a shoulder of veal or
mutton (see Chapter XI.); flatten it on a table, season it well with
cayenne, salt, and pounded mace, mixed with a very small proportion
of allspice; lay over it thin slices of the fat of a loin of well-fed
mutton, roll and bind it tightly, lay it into a vessel nearly of its
size, and pour to it as much good stock made with equal parts of
beef and mutton as will nearly cover it; stew it as slowly as possible
from three hours to three and a half or longer, should it be very
large, and turn it when it is half done. Dish and serve it with a good
Espagnole, made with part of the gravy in which it has been stewed;
or thicken this slightly with rice-flour, mixed with a glass or more of
claret or of port wine, and as much salt and cayenne as will season
the gravy properly.
Some cooks soak the slices of mutton-fat in wine before they are
laid upon the joint; but no process of the sort will ever give to any
kind of meat the true flavour of the venison, which to most eaters is
far finer than that of the wine, and should always be allowed to
prevail over all the condiments with which it is dressed. Those,


284
[CHAP. XV.
MODERN COOKERY.
however, who care for it less than for a dish of high artificial savour,
can have eschalots, ham, and carrot, lightly browned in good butter,
added to the stew when it first begins to boil.
34 to 4 hours.
TO HASH VENISON.*
For a superior hash of venison, add to three quarters of a pint of
strong thickened brown gravy, Christopher North's sauce, in the
proportion directed for it in the receipt of page 295.Cut the venison
in small thin slices of equal size, arrange them in a clean saucepan,
pour the gravy on them, let them stand for ten minutes or more,
then place them near the fire, and bring the whole very slowly to the
point of boiling only : serve the hash immediately in a hot-water dish.
For a plain dinner, when no gravy is at hand, break down the
bones of the venison small, after the flesh has been cleared from them,
and boil them with those of three or four undressed mutton-cutlets, &
slice or two of carrot, or a few savoury herbs, and about a pint and a
half of water or broth, until the liquid is reduced quite one third.
Strain it off, let it cool, skim off all the fat, heat the gravy, thicken
it when it boils with a dessertspoonful or rather more of arrow-root,
or with the brown rour of page 107, mix the same sauce with it, and
finish it exactly as the richer hash above. It may be served on sip-
pets of fried bread or not, at choice.
TO ROAST A HARE.
(In season from September to the 1st of March.]
After the bare has been skinned, or cased, as it is called, wash it
very thoroughly in cold water, and afterwards in warm. If in any
degree overkept, or musty in the inside, which it will sometimes be
when emptied before it is hung
up and neglected afterwards, use
vinegar, or the pyroligneous
acid, well diluted, to render it
sweet; then again throw it into
abundance of water, that it may
retain no taste of the acid.
Pierce with the point of a knife
any parts in which the blood
appears to have settled, and soak
them in tepid water, that it may
be well drawn out. Wipe the hare dry, fill it with the forcemeat
No. 1, Chapter VIII., sew it up, truss and spit it firmly, baste it for
• Minced collops of venison may be prepared exactly like those of beef; and
venison-cutlets like those of mutton: the neck may be taken for both of these.
+ Having been inadvertently omitted from its proper place, this receipt is
transferred to the end of the present Chapter.

Hare trussed.


CHAP. xv.]
285
GAME.
ten minutes with lukewarm water mixed with a very little salt ; throw
this away, and put into the pan a quart or more of new milk ; keep
it constantly laded over the hare until it is nearly dried up, then add
a large lump of butter, flour the hare, and continue the basting
steadily until it is well browned; for unless this be done, and the
roast be kept at a proper distance from the fire, the outside will
become so dry and hard as to be quite uneatable. Serve the hare
when done, with good brown gravy (of which a little should be
poured round it in the dish), and with fine red currant jelly. This
is an approved English method of dressing it, but we would recom-
mend in preference, that it should be basted plentifully with butter
from the beginning (the strict economist may substitute clarified beef-
dripping, or marrow, and finish with a small quantity of butter
only); and that the salt and water should be altogether omitted.
First-rate cooks merely wipe the hare inside and out, and rub it with
its own blood before it is laid to the fire; but there is generally a
rankness about it, especially after it has been many days killed,
which, we should say, renders the washing indispensable, unless a
coarse game-flavour be liked.
11 to 10 hour.
ROAST HARE,
(Superior Receipt.)
A hare may be rendered far more plump in appearance, and infi-
nitely easier to carve, by taking out the bones of the back and thighs,
or of the former only: in removing this a very sharp knife should
be used, and much care will be required to avoid cutting through the
skin just over the spine, as it adheres closely to the bone. Nearly
double the usual quantity of forcemeat must be prepared : with this
restore the legs to their original shape, and fill the body, which
should previously be lined with delicate slices of the nicest bacon, of
which the rind and edges have been trimmed away. Sew up the
hare, truss it as usual ; lard it or not, as is most convenient, keep it
basted plentifully with butter while roasting, and serve it with the
customary sauce. We have found two tablespoonsful of the finest
currant jelly, melted in half a pint of rich brown gravy, an accept-
able accompaniment to hare, when the taste has been in favour of a
sweet sauce.
To remove the back-bone, clear from it first the flesh in the inside;
lay this back to the right and left from the centre of the bone to the
tips; then work the knife on the upper side quite to the spine, and
when the whole is detached except the skin which adheres to this,
separate the bone at the first joint from the neck-bone or ribs (we
know not how more correctly to describe it), and pass the knife with
saution under the skin down the middle of the back. The directions
for boning the thighs of a fowl will answer equally for those of
a hare, and we therefore refer the reader to them.


286
[chap. xv.
MODERN COOKERY
v
STEWED HARE.
Wash and soak the hare thoroughly, wipe it very dry, cut it down
into joints dividing the largest, flour and brown it slightly in butter
with some bits of lean ham, pour to them by degrees a pint and a half
of gravy, and stew the hare very gently from an hour and a half to
two hours : when it is about one third done add the very thin rind of
half a large lemon, and ten minutes before it is served stir to it a
large dessertspoonful of rice-flour, smoothly mixed with two table-
spoonsful of good mushroom catsup, a quarter of a teaspoonful or
more of mace, and something less of cayenne. This is an excellent
plain receipt for stewing a hare; but the dish may be enriched with
forcemeat (Mo. 1, Chapter VIII.) rolled into small balls, and sim-
mered for ten minutes in the stew, or fried and added to it after it is
dished; a higher seasoning of spice, a couple of glasses of port wine,
with a little additional thickening and a tablespoonful of lemon-juice,
will all serve to give it a heightened relish.
Hare, 1 ; lean of ham or bacon, 4 to 6 oz. ; butter, 2 oz. ; gravy,
1} pint; lemon-rind : 1 hour and 20 to 50 minutes. Rice-flour, 1
large dessertspoonful ; mushroom catsup, 2 tablespoonsful ; mace, }
of teaspoonful; little cayenne (salt, if needed): 10 minutes
TO ROAST A RABBIT.
This, like a hare, is much im-
proved by having the back-bone
taken out, and the directions we
have given will enable the cook,
with very little practice, to remove
it without difficulty. Line the
inside, when this is done, with thin Rabbit for roasting.
slices of bacon, fill it with force-
meat (No. 1, Chapter VIII), sew it up, truss, and roast it at a clear,
brisk fire, and baste it constantly with butter. Flour it well soon
after it is laid down. Serve it with good brown gravy, and with
currant jelly, when this last is liked. For change, the back of the
rabbit
may be larded, and the bone left in, or not, at pleasure; or it
can be plain roasted when more convenient
to i hour; less, if small.
TO BOIL RABBITS.
Rabbits that are three parts grown,
or, at all events, which are still quite
young, should be chosen for this mode
of cooking. Wash them well, truss
them firmly, with the hears turned
and skewered to the sides, drop them
Rabbit for boiling.
into sufficient boiling water to keep
them quite covered until they are
cooked, and simmer them gently from thirty to forty-five minutes :


CHAP. xv.]
287
GAME.
when very young they will require even less time than this. Cover
them witŁ rich white sauce, mixed with the livers parboiled, finely
pounded, and well seasoned with cayenne and lemon-juice: or with
white onion sauce, or with parsley and butter, made with milk or
cream instead of water (the livers, minced, are often added to the last
of these), or with good mushroom sauce.
30 to 45 minutes.
FRIED RABBIT.
After the rabbit has been emptied, thoroughly washed and soaked,
should it require it to remove any mustiness of smell, blanch it, that
is to say, put it into boiling water and let it boil from five to seven
minutes ; drain it, and when cold or nearly so, cut it into joints, dip
them into beaten egg, and then into fine bread-crumbs, seasoned with
salt and pepper, and when all are ready, fry them in butter over a
moderate fire, from twelve to fifteen minutes. Simmer two or three
strips of lemon-rind in a little gravy, until it is well flavoured with
it; boil the liver of the rabbit for five minutes, let it cool, and then
mince it; thicken the gravy with an ounce of butter and a small
teaspoonful of flour, add the liver, give the sauce a minute's boil, stir
in two tablespoonsful of cream if at hand, and last of all, a small
quantity of lemon-juice. Dish the rabbit, pour the sauce under it,
and serve it quickly. If preferred, a gravy can be made in the pan
as for veal cutlets, and the rabbit may be simply fried.
TO ROAST A PHEASANT.
(In season from the beginning of October to the end of January. The licensed
term of pheasant shooting commences on the 1st of October, and terminates on
the 2nd of February, but as the birds will remain perfectly good in cold weather
for two or three weeks, if from that time hung in a well-ventilated larder, they
continue, correctly speaking, in season so long as they can be preserved fit for
table after the regular market for them is closed: the same rule applies equally
to other varieties of game.]
Unless kept to the proper point, a pheasant is
one of the most tough, dry, and flavourless birds
that is sent to table; but when it has hung as
many days as it can without becoming really
tainted, and is well roasted and served, it is most
excellent eating. Pluck off the feathers carefully,
cut a slit in the back of the neck to remove the
crop, then draw the bird in the usual way, and
either wipe the inside very clean with a damp
cloth, or pour water through it; wipe the outside
without the head.
also, but with a dry cloth; cut off the toes, turn
the head of the bird under the wing, with the bill laid straight along
the breast, skewer the legs, which must not be crossed, Hour the
pheasant well, lay it to a brisk fire, and baste it constantly and
plentifully with well flavoured butter. Send bread-sauce and good
brown gravy to table with it. The entire breast of the bird may be
larded by the directions of Chapter X When a brace is served, one

Fheasant trussed


288
[CHAP. XV.
MODERN COOKERY.
is sometimes larded, and the other not; but a much handsomer
appearance is given to the dish by larding both. About three
quarters of an hour will roast them.
1 hour; a few minutes less, if liked very much underdone; five
or ten more for thorough roasting, with a good fire in both cases.
BOUDIN OF PHEASANT A LA RICHELIEU. (ENTRÉE.)
Take, quite clear from the bones, and from all skin and sinew, the
flesh of a half-roasted pheasant; mince, and then pound it to the
smoothest paste; add an equal bulk of the floury part of some fine
roasted potatoes, or of such as have been boiled by Captain Kater's
receipt (see Chapter XVII.), and beat them together until they are
well blended ; next throw into the mortar something less (in volume)
of fresh butter than there was of the pheasant-flesh, with a high
seasoning of mace, nutmeg, and cayenne, and a half-teaspoonful or
more of salt; pound the mixture afresh for ten minutes or a quarter
of an hour, keeping it turned from the sides of the mortar into the
middle; then add one by one, after merely taking out the germs
with the point of a fork, two whole eggs and a yolk or two without
the whites, if these last will not render the mixture too moist.
Mould it into the form of a roll, lay it into a stewpan rubbed with
butter, pour boiling water on it and poach it gently from ten to
fifteen minutes. Lift it out with care, drain it on a sieve, and when
it is quite cold cover it equally with beaten egg, and then with the
finest bread-crumbs, and broil it over a clear fire, or fry it in butter
of a clear golden brown. A good gravy should be made of the
remains of the bird and sent to table with it; the flavour may be
heightened with ham and eschalots, as directed in Chapter IV.,
page
96, and small mushrooms, sliced sideways, and stewed quite tender in
butter, may be mixed with the boudin after it is taken from the
mortar; or their flavour may be given more delicately by adding to
it only the butter in which they have been simmered, well pressed,
from them through a strainer. The mixture, which should be set
into a very cool place before it is moulded, may be made into several
small rolls, which will require four or five minutes' poaching only.
The flesh of partridges will answer quite as well as that of pheasants
for this dish.
SALMI OF PHEASANT.
(See page 292.)
PHEASANT CUTLETS.
(See page 275.)
TO ROAST PARTRIDGES.
[In season from the first of September to the second of February, and as long
as they can be preserved fit for table from that time.]
Let the birds hang as long as they can possibly be kept without
becoming offensive ; pick them carefully, draw, and singe them;


CHAP xv.]
289
GAME.
wipe the insides thoroughly with a clean cloth; truss them with the
head turned under the wing and the legs
diawn close together, not crossed. Flour
them when first laid to the fire, and baste
them plentifully with butter. Serve them
with bread sauce, and good brown gravy:
a little of this last should be poured over
them. In some counties they are dished
upon fried bread-crumbs, but these are
better handed round the table by them-
Partridge truzsed.
selves. Where game is plentiful we re-
commend that the remains of a cold roasted partridge should be
well bruised and boiled down with just so much water, or unfla-
voured broth, as will make gravy for a brace of other birds: this,
seasoned with salt, and cayenne only, or flavoured with a few mush-
rooms, will be found a very superior accompaniment for roast part-
ridges, to the best meat-gravy that can be made. A little eschalot,
and a few herbs, can be added to it at pleasure. It should be served
also with boiled or with broiled partridges in preference to any other.
30 to 40 minutes.
Obs.- Rather less time must be allowed when the birds are liked
underdressed. In preparing them for the spit, the crop must be
removed through a slit cut in the back of the neck, the claws clipped
close, and the legs held in boiling water for a minute, that they may
be skinned the more easily.
BOILED PARTRIDGES.
This is a delicate mode of dressing young and tender birds. Strip
off the feathers, clean, and wash them well; cut off the heads, truss
the legs like those of boiled fowls, and when ready, drop them into a
large pan of boiling water; throw a little salt on them, and in
fifteen, or at the utmost in eighteen minutes they will be ready to
Lift them out, dish them quickly, and send them to table
with white mushroom sauce, with bread sauce and game gravy (sec
preceding receipt), or with celery sauce. Our own mode of having
them served is usually with a slice of fresh butter, about a table-
spoonful of lemon-juice, and a good sprinkling of cayenne placed in
a very hot dish, under them.
15 to 18 minutes.
serve.
PARTRIDGES WITII MUSHROOMS.
For a brace of young well-kept birds, prepare frc:n half to three
quarters of a pint of mushroom-buttons, or very small flaps, as for
pickling. Dissolve over a gentle fire an ounce and a half of butter,
ihrow in the mushrooms with a slight sprinkling of salt and
cayenne, simmer them from eight to ten minutes, and turn them
with the butter on to a plate; when they are quite cold, put the


290
[CHAP. IV.
MODERN COOKERY.
whole into the bodies of the partridges, sew them up, truss them
securely, and roast them on a vertical jack with the heads down-
wards; or should an ordinary spit be used, tie them firmly to it,
instead of passing it through them. Roast them the usual time, and
serve them with brown mushroom sauce, or with gravy and bread
sauce only. The birds may be trussed like boiled fowls, floured, and
lightly browned in butter, half covered with rich brown gravy and
stewed slowly for thirty minutes; then turned, and simmered for
another half hour with the addition of some mushrooms to the gravy ;
or they may be covered with small mushrooms stewed apart, when
they are sent to table. They can also be served with their sauce
only, simply thickened with a small quantity of fresh butter, smoothly
mixed with less than a teaspoonful of arrowroot and flavoured witt
cayenne and a little catsup, wine, or store sauce.
Partridges, 2; mushrooms, i to pint; butter, 1} oz.; little mace
and cayenne : roasted 30 to 40 minutes, or stewed 1 hour.
Obs.- Nothing can be finer than the game flavour imbibed by the
mushrooms with which the birds are filled, in this receipt.
BROILED PARTRIDGE.
(Breakfast Dish.)
“Split a young and well-kept partridge, and wipe it with a soft
clean cloth inside and out, but do not wash it; broil it delicately over
a very clear fire, sprinkling it with a little salt and cayenne; rub &
bit of fresh butter over it the moment it is taken from the fire, and
send it quickly to table with a sauce made of a good slice of butter
browned with flour, a little water, cayenne, salt, and mushroom-
catsup, poured over it.” We give this receipt exactly as we received
it from a house where we know it to have been greatly approved by
various guests who have partaken of it there.
BROILED PARTRIDGE.
(French Receipt.)
After having prepared the bird with great nicety, divided, and
flattened it, season it with salt, and pepper, or cayenne, dip it into
clarified butter, and then into very fine bread-crumbs, and take care
that every part shall be equally covered : if wanted of particularly
good appearance dip it a second time into the butter and crumbs.
Place it over a very clear fire, and broil it gently from twenty to
thirty minutes. Send it to table with brown mushroom sauce, or
some Espagnole.
THE FRENCH, OR RED-LEGGED PARTRIDGE.
This is dressed precisely like our common partridge, and is excel-
lent eating if it be well kept ; otherwise it is tough and devoid of


CHAP. xv.]
GAME.
291
flavour. It does not, we believe, abound commonly in England, its
hostility to the gray partridge, which it drives always frum its neigh-
bourhood, rendering it an undesirable occupant of a preserve. It was
at one time, however, plentiful in Suffolk,* and in one or two of the
adjoining counties, but great efforts, we have understood, have been
made to exterminate it.
TO ROAST THE LANDRAIL OR CORN-CRAKE.
This delicate and excellent bird is in its full season at the end of
August and early in September, when it abounds often in the poul-
terers' shops. Its plumage resembles that of the partridge, but it is
of smaller size and of much more slender shape. Strip off the fea-
thers, draw and prepare the bird as usual for the spit, truss it like a
snipe, and roast it quickly at a brisk but not a fierce fire from fifteen
to eighteen minutes. Dish it on fried brcad-crumbs, or omit these
and serve it with gravy round it, and more in a tureen, and with well
made bread sauce. Three or even four of the birds will be required
for a dish. One makes a nice dinner for an invalid.
TO ROAST BLACK COCK AND GRAY HEN.
In season during the same time as the common grouse, and found like them on
the moors, but less abundantly.
These birds, so delicious when well kept and well roasted, are
tough and comparatively flavourless when too soon dressed. They
should hang therefore till they give unequivocal indication of being
ready for the spit. Pick and draw them with exceeding care, as the
skin is easily broken ; truss them like pheasants, lay them at a mo-
derate distance from a clear brisk fire, baste them plentifully and
constantly with butter, and serve them on a thick toast which has
been laid under them in the dripping-pan for the last ten minutes of
their roasting, and which will have imbibed a high degree of savour:
some cooks squeeze a little lemon-juice over it before it is put into
the pan. Send rich brown gravy and bread sauce to table with the
birds. From three quarters of an hour to a full hour will roast
them. Though kept to the point which we have recommended, they
will not offend even the most fastidious eater after they are dressed,
as, unless they have been too long allowed to hang, the action of the
fire will remove all perceptible traces of their previous state. In the
earlier part of the season, when warm and close packing have ren-
dered either black game or grouse, in their transit from the North,
apparently altogether unfit for table, the chloride of soda, well-
diluted, may be used with advantage to restore them to a fitting
state for it; though the copious washings which must then be re-
sorted to, may diminish something of their fine flavour.
i to 1 hour.
* Brought there by the late Marquis of Hertford, to his Sudbourne estate.


292
(Cuar, xv.
MODERN COOKERY.
TO ROAST GROUSE.
Handle the birds very lightly in plucking off the feathers; draw
them, and wipe the insides with clean damp cloths; or first wash,
and then dry them well; though this latter mode would not be ap-
proved generally by epicures. Truss the grouse in the same manner
as the black game above, and roast them about half an hour at a clear
and brisk fire, keeping them basted almost without intermission.
Serve them on a buttered toast which has been laid under them in the
pan for ten minutes, or with gravy and bread sauce only.
1 hour to 35 minutes.
Obs.— There are few occasions, we think, in which the contents of
the dripping-pan can be introduced at table with advantage; but in
dressing moor game, we would strongly recommend the toast to be
laid in it under the birds, as it will atłord a superior relish even to the
birds themselves.
A SALMI OF MOOR FOWL, PHEASANTS, OR PARTRIDGES.
(ENTRÉE.)
This is an excellent mode of serving the remains of roasted game,
but when a superlative sulmi is desired, the birds must be scarcely
more then half roasted for it. In either case carve them very neatly,
and strip every particle of skin and fat from the legs, wings, and
breasts; bruise the bodies well, and put them with the skin and other
trimmings into a very clean stewpan. If for a simple and inexpensive
dinner, merely add to them two or three sliced eschalots, a bay leaf,
a small blade of mace, and a few peppercorns; then pour in a pint or
rather more of good veal gravy or strong broth, and boil it briskly
until reduced nearly half; strain the gravy, pressing the bones well
to obtain all the flavour, skim off the fat, add a little cayenne and
lemon-juice, heat the game very gradually in it, but do not on any
account allow it to boil ; place sippets of fried bread round a dish,
arrange the birds in good form in the centre, give the sauce a boil,
and pour it on them. This is but a homely sort of salmi, though of
excellent flavour if well made; it may require perhaps the addition
of a little thickening, and two or three glasses of dry white wine
poured to the bodies of the birds with the broth, would bring it
nearer to the French salmi in flavour. As the spongy substance in
the inside of moor fowl and black game is apt to be extremely bitter
when they have been long kept, care should be taken to remove such
parts as would endanger the preparation.
FRENCII SALMI, OR HASII OF GAME. (ENTRÉE.)
Prepare underdressed or half-roasted game by the directions we
have already given, and after having stripped the skin from the


CHAP. xv.]
293
GAME.
thighs, wings, and breasts, arrange the joints evenly in a clean stew.
pan, and keep them covered from the air and dust till wanted. Cut
down into dice four ounces of the lean of an unboiled ham, and put
it, with two ounces of butter, into a thick well-tinned saucepan or
stewpan; add three or four minced eschalots (more, should a high
flavour of them be liked), two ounces of sliced carrot, four cloves,
two bay leaves, a dozen peppercorns, one blade of mace, a small sprig
or two of thyme, and part of a root of parsley, or two or three small
branches of the leaves. Stew these over a gentle fire, stirring or
shaking them often, until the sides of the saucepan appear of a red-
dish-brown, then mix well with them a dessertspoonful of four, and
let it take a little colour. Next, add by degrees, making the sauce
boil as each portion is thrown in, three quarters of a pint of strong
veal stock or gravy, and nearly half a pint of sherry or Madeira ; put
in the well-bruised bodies of the birds, and boil them from an hour
to an hour and a half; strain, and clear the sauce quite from fat;
pour it on the joints of game, heat them in it slowly ; and when they
are near the point of boiling, dish them immediately with delicately
fried sippets round the dish. When mushrooms can be obtained,
throw a dozen or two of small ones, with the other seasonings, into
the butter. The wine is sometimes added to the vegetables, and
one half reduced before the gravy is poured in; but though a
sauce of fine colour is thus produced the flavour of the wine is en-
tirely lost.
TO ROAST WOODCOCKS OR SWIPES.
[In season during the winter months, but not abundant until frost sets in.]
Handle them as little and as lightly as possible, and pluck off the
feathers gently ; for if this be violently done the skin of the birds
will be broken. Do not draw them, but after having wiped them
with clean soft cloths, truss them with the head under the wing, and
the bill laid close along the breast ; pass a slight skewer through the
thighs, catch the ends with a bit of twine, and tie it across to keep the
legs straight. Suspend the birds with the feet downwards to a bird-
spit, flour them well, and baste them with butter, which should be
ready dissolved in the pan or ladle. Before the trail begins to drop,
which it will do as soon as they are well heated, lay a thick round of
bread, freed from the crust, toasted a delicate brown, and buttered on
both sides, into the pan under them to catch it, as this is considered
finer eating even than the flesh of the birds ; continue the basting,
letting the butter fall from them into the basting-spoon or ladle, as
it cannot be collected again from the dripping-pan should it drop
there, in consequence of the toast or toasts being in it. There should
be one of these for each woodcock, and the trail should be spread
equally over it. When the birds are done, which they will be, at a
brisk fire, in from twenty to twenty-five minutes, lay the toasts into


294
[CHAP. IV.
MODERN COOKERY.
a very hot dish, dress the birds upon them, pour a little gravy round
the bread, and send more to table in a tureen.
Woodcock, 20 to 25 minutes ; snipe, 5 minutes less.
TO ROAST THE PINTAIL, OR SEA PIEASANT.
[All wild-fowl is in full season in mid-winter: the more severe the weather,
the more abundant are the supplies of it in the markets. It may be bad usually
from November to March.)
This beautiful bird is by no means rare upon our eastern coast, but
we know not whether it be much seen in the markets generally. It
is most excellent eating, and should be roasted at a clear quick fire,
well floured when first laid down, turned briskly, and basted with
butter almost without cessation. If drawn from the spit in from
twenty-five to thirty minutes, then dished and laid before the fire for
two or three more, it will give forth a singularly rich gravy. Score
the breast when it is carved sprinkle on it a little cayenne and fine
salt, and let a cut lemon be handed round the table when the bird is
served ; or omit the scoring, and send round with it brown gravy,
and Christopher North's sauce made hot. (For this, see the fol-
lowing page.)
20 to 30 minutes.
TO ROAST WILD DUCKS.
A bit of soft bread soaked in port wine, or in claret, is sometimes
put into them, but nothing more. Flour them well, lay them rather
near to a very clear and brisk fire, that they may be quickly browned,
and yet retain their juices. Baste them plentifully and constantly
with butter, and, if it can be so regulated, let the spit turn with them
rapidly. From fifteen to twenty minutes will roast them sufficiently
for the generality of eaters; but for those who object to then much
underdressed, a few additional minutes must be allowed. Something
less of time will suffice when they are prepared for persons who like
them scarcely more than heated through.
Teal, which is a more delicate kind of wild fowl, is roasted in the
: in from ten to fifteen minutes it will be enough done for
the fashionable mode of serving it, and twenty minutes will dress it
well at a good fire.
same way :
A SALMI, OR HASII OF WILD FOWL.
Carve the birds very neatly, strip off the skin, and proceed as for
the salmi of pheasants (page 292), but mix port or claret, instead of
white wine, with the gravy, and give it a rather high seasoning of
cayenne. Throw in the juice of half a small lemon before the salmi
is served, place fried sippets round the dish, and send it to table as
hoit ssible.


CHAP. XY.]
295
GAME
For a common hash boil the skin and trimmings of the wild-fowl
in some good broth, or gravy (with a couple of lightly fried eschalots
or not, at choice), until their flavour is imparted to it; then strain,
heat, and thicken it slightly, with a little brown roux, or browned
flour; add a wineglassful of port wine, some lemon-juice, and cay-
enne; or sufficient of Christopher North's sauce to flavour it well ;
warm the birds slowly in it, and serve them as soon as they are
thoroughly hot, but without allowing them to boil.
[The following receipt having, from inadvertence, been omitted from
the chapter to which it properly belongs—as the reader has already been
informed—a place is given to it here.]
CHRISTOPIIER NORTH'S OWN SAUCE FOR MANY MEATS.
Throw into a small basin a heaped saltspoonful of good cayenne
pepper, in very fine powder and half the quantity of salt; add a
small dessertspoonful of well-refined, pounded, and sifted sugar; mix
these thoroughly ; then pour in a tablespoonful of the strained juice
of a fresh lemon, two of Harvey's sauce, a teaspoonful of the very
best mushroom catsup (or of cavice), and three tablespoonsful, or a
small wineglassful, of port wine. Heat the sauce by placing the
basin in a saucepan of boiling water, or turn it into a jar, and place
this in the water. Serve it directly it is ready with geese or ducks,
tame or wild ; roast pork, venison, fawn, a grilled blade-bone, or any
other broil. A slight flavour of garlic or eschalot vinegar may be
given to it at pleasure. Some persons use it with fish. It is good
cold; and, if bottled directly it is made, may be stored for several
days. It is the better for being mixed some hours before it is served.
The proportion of cayenne may be doubled when a very pungent sauce
18 desired.
Good cayenne pepper in fine powder, 1 heaped saltspoonful: salt,
half as much; pounded sugar, 1 small dessertspoonful ; strained
lemon juice, 1 tablespoonful ; Harvey's sauce, 2 tablespoonsful; best
mushroom catsup (or cavice), 1 teaspoonful ; port wine, 3 table-
spoonsful, or small wineglassful. (Little eschalot, or garlic-vinegar
at pleasure.)
Obs.--This sauce is exceedingly good when mixed with the brown
gravy of a hash or stew, or with that which is served with game or
other dishes


296
[CHAP. XVI.
MODERX COOKERY
CHAPTER XVI.
Curries, Potted Meats, &c.

The great superiority of the oriental curries over those generally
prepared in England is not, we believe, altogether the result of a
want of skill or of experience on the part of our cooks, but is attri-
butable in some measure, to many of the ingredients, which in a
fresh and green state add so much to their excellence, being here
beyond our reach.
With us, turmeric and cayenne pepper prevail in them often
far too powerfully : the prodigal use of the former should be
especially avoided, as it injures both the quality and the colour of
the currie, which ought to be of a dark green, rather than of a red
or yellow hue. A couple of ounces of a sweet, sound cocoa-nut,
lightly grated and stewed for nearly or quite an hour in the
gravy of a currie, is a great improvement to its flavour : it will be
found particularly agreeable with that of sweetbreads, and may be
served in the currie, or strained from it at pleasure. Great care
however, should be taken not to use, for the purpose, a nut that is
rancid. Spinage, cucumbers, vegetable marrow, tomatas, acid apples,
green gooseberries (seeded), and tamarinds imported in the shell-not


CHAP. xvi.] CURRIES, POTTED MEATS, &c.
297
preserved - may all, in their season, be added, with very good effect,
to curries of different kinds. Potatoes and celery are also occasionally
boiled down in them.
The rice for a currie should always be sent to table in a separate
dish from it, and in serving them, it should be first helped, and the
currie laid upon it.
MR. ARNOTT's CURRIE-POWDER
Turmeric, eight ounces.
Coriander seed, four ounces.
Cummin seed, two ounces.
Fænugreek seed, two ounces.
Cayenne, half an ounce. (More or less of this
last to the taste.)
Let the seeds be of the finest quality. Dry them well, pound, and
sift them separately through a lawn sieve, then weigh, and mix
them in the above proportions. This is an exceedingly agreeable
and aromatic powder, when all the ingredients are perfectly fresh
and good, but the preparing is rather a troublesome process. Mr.
Arnott recommends that when it is considered so, a “high-caste"
chemist should be applied to for it.
MR. ARNOTT'S CURRIE.
“Take the heart of a cabbage, and nothing but the heart, that
is to say, pull away all the outside leaves until it is about the size
of an egg; chop it fine, add to it a couple of apples sliced thin,
the juice of one lemon, half a teaspoonful of black pepper, with
one large tablespoonful of my currie-powder, and mix the whole
well together. Now take six onions that have been chopped fine
and fried brown, a garlic head, the size of a nutmeg, also minced
fine, two ounces of fresh butter, two tablespoonsful of flour, and one
pint of strong mutton or beef gravy; and when these articles are
boiling, add the former ingredients, and let the whole be well stewed
up together : if not hot enough, add cayenne pepper. Next put in a
fowl that has been roasted and nicely cut up; or a rabbit; or some
lean chops of pork or mutton; or a lobster, or the remains of yester-
day's calf's head; or anything else you may fancy; and you will
have an excellent currie, fit for kings to partake of.
“Well! now for the rice! It should be put into water which
should be frequently changed, and should remain in for half an hour
at least; this both clears and soaks it. Have your saucepan full of
water (the larger the better), and when it boils rapidly, throw the
rice into it: it will be done in fifteen minutes. Strain it into a dish,
wipe the saucepan dry, return the drained rice into it, and put it over
We think it would be an improvement to diminish by two ounces the pro-
portion of turmeric, and to increase that of the coriander seed; but we have not
tried it.


298
[CHAP. XVI.
MODERN COOKERY-
a gentle fire for a few minutes, with a cloth over it: every grain will
be separate. When served, do not cover the dish."
Obs. We have already given testimony to the excellence of Mr
Arnott's currie-powder, but we think the currie itself will be found
somewhat too acid for English taste in general, and the proportion of
onion and garlic by one half too much for any but well seasoned
Anglo-Indian palates. After having tried his method of boiling the
rice, we still give the preference to that of Chapter I., page 36.
A BENGAL CURRIE.
Slice and fry three large onions in two ounces of butter, and
lift them out of the pan when done. Put into a stewpan three
other large onions and a small clove of garlic which have been
pounded together, and smoothly mixed with a dessertspoonful of the
best pale turmeric, a teaspoonful of powdered ginger, one of salt, and
one of cayenne pepper; add to these the butter in which the onions
were fried, and half a cupful of good gravy; let them stew for about
ten minutes, taking care that they shall not burn. Next, stir to them
the fried onions and half a pint more of gravy; add a pound and a
half of mutton, or of any other meat, free from bone and fat, and
simmer it gently for an hour, or more should it not then be perfectly
tender.
Fried onions, 3 large; butter, 2 oz.; onions pounded, 3 large;
garlic, 1 clove; turmeric, i dessertspoonful; powdered ginger, salt,
cayenne, each 1 teaspoonful; gravy, cupful : 10 minutes. Gravy
#pint; meat, 1} lb.:
hour or more
A DRY CURRIE.
Skin and cut down a fowl into small joints, or a couple of pounds
of mutton, free from fat and bone, into very small thick cutlets; rub
them with as much currie-powder, mixed with a teaspoonful of flour
and one of salt, as can be made to adhere to them : this will be from
two to three tablespoonsful. Dissolve a good slice of butter in a deep,
well-tinned stewpan or saucepan, and shake it over a brisk fire for
four or five minutes, or until it begins to take colour ; then put in the
meat, and brown it well and equally, without allowing a morsel to be
scorched. The pan should be shaken vigorously every minute or
two, and the meat turned in it frequently. When this is done, lift it
out and throw into the stewpan two or three large onions finely
minced, and four or five eschalots when these last are liked ; add a
morsel of butter if needful, and fry them until they begin to soften;
then add a quarter of a pint of gravy, broth, or boiliug water, and a
large acid apple, or two moderate-sized ones, of a good boiling kind,
with the hearts of two or three lettuces, or of one hard cabbage, shred
quite small (tomatas or cucumbers freed from their seeds can be sub-
stituted for these when in season). Stew the whole slowly until it


CHAP. xvi.]
299
CURRIES, POTTED MEATS, &c.
resembles a thick pulp, and add to it any additional liquid that may
be required, should it become too dry; put in the meat, and simimer
the whole very softly until this is done, which will be in from three
quarters of an hour to an hour.
Prawns, shrimps, or the flesh of boiled lobsters may be slowly
heated through, and served in this currie sauce with good effect.
A COMMON INDIAN CURRIE.
For each pound of meat, whether veal, mutton, or beef, take a
heaped tablespoonful of good currie powder, a small teaspoonful of
salt, and one of flour; mix these well together, and after having cut
down the meat into thick small cutlets, or dice, rub half of the mixed
powder equally over it. Next, fry gently from one to four or five
Iarge onions sliced, with or without the addition of a small clove of
garlic or half a dozen eschalots, according to the taste; and when they
are of a fine golden brown, lift them out with a slice and lay them
upon a sieve to drain; throw a little more butter into the pan and
fry the meat lightly in it; drain it well from the fat in taking it out,
and lay it into a clean stewpan or saucepan ; strew the onion over it,
and
pour in as much boiling water as will almost cover it. Mix the
remainder of the currie-powder smoothly with a little broth or cold
water, and after the currie has stewed for a few minutes pour it in,
shaking the pan well round that it may be smoothly blended with
the gravy. Simmer the whole very softly until the meat is perfectly
tender : this will be in from an hour and a quarter to two hours and
a half, according to the quantity and the nature of the meat.
Mutton will be the soonest done; the brisket end (gristles) of a breast
of veal will require twice as much stewing, and sometimes more. A
fowl will be ready to serve in an hour. An acid apple or two, or any
of the vegetables which we have enumerated at the commencement of
this chapter, may be added to the currie, proper time being allowed
for cooking each variety. Very young green peas are liked by some
people in it; and cucumbers pared, seeded, and cut moderately small,
are always a good addition. A richer currie will of course be pro-
duced if gravy or broth be substituted for the water: either should
be boiling when poured to the meat. Lemon-juice should be stirred
in before it is served, when there is no other acid in the currie. A
dish of boiled rice must be sent to table with it. A couple of pounds
of meat free from bone, is sufficient quite for a moderate-sized dish
of this kind, but three of the breast of veal are sometimes used
for it, when it is to be served to a large family-party of currie-eaters;
from half to a whole pound of rice should then accompany it. For
the proper mode of boiling it, see page 36. The small grained, or
Patna, is the kind which ought to be used for the purpose.
Six
ounces is sufficient for a not large currie ; and a pound, when boiled
dry, and heated lightly in a dish, appears an enormous quantity for a
modern table.


CHAP. XVI.]
301
CURRIES, POTTED MEATS, &c.
maccaroni gently in this until it is well and equally covered with it.
A small quantity of rich cream, or a little béchamel, will very much
improve the sauce, into which it should be stirred just before the
maccaroni is added, and the lemon-juice should be thrown in after-
wards. This dish is, to our taste, far better without the strong
flavouring of onion or garlic, usually given to curries; which can,
however, be imparted to the gravy in the usual way, when it is
liked.
Ribband maccaroni, 6 oz.: 15 to 18 minutes. Gravy, or good
beef or veal stock, full pint and $; fine currie-powder, 1 small
tablespoonful; arrow-root, 1 teaspoonful; little lemon-juice: 20
minutes. Maccaroni in sauce, 3 to 6 minutes.
Obs.-An ounce or two of grated cocoa-nut, simmered in the
gravy for half an hour or more, then strained and well pressed from
it, is always an excellent addition. The pipe maccaroni, well curried,
is extremely good : the sauce for both kinds should be made with
rich gravy, especially when the onion is omitted. A few drops of
eschalot-vinegar can be added to it when the flavour is liked.
CURRIED EGGS.
Boil six or eight fresh eggs quite hard, as for salad, and put them
aside until they are cold Mix well together from two to three
ounces of good' butter, and from three to four dessertspoonsful of
currie-powder; shake them in a stew-pan or thick saucepan, over a
clear but moderate fire for some minutes, then throw in a couple of
mild onions finely minced, and fry them gently until they are
tolerably soft : pour to them, by degrees, from half to three quarters
of a pint of broth or gravy, and stew them slowly until they are
reduced to pulp; mix smoothly a small cup of thick cream with two
teaspoonsful of wheaten or of rice-flour, stir them to the currie, and
simmer the whole until the raw taste of the thickening is gone.
Cut the eggs into half inch slices, heat them quite through in the
sauce without boiling them, and serve them as hot as possible.
CURRIED SWEETBREADS.
Wash and soak them as usual, then throw them into boiling water
with a little salt in it, and a whole onion, and let them simmer for
ten minutes; or, if at hand, substitute weak veal broth for the
water. Lift them out, place them on a drainer, and leave them
until they are perfectly cold; then cut them into half-inch slices,
and either flour and fry them lightly in butter, or put them, without
this, into as much curried gravy as will just cover them; stew them
in it very gently, from twenty to thirty minutes ; add as much
lemon-juice or chili vinegar as will acidulate the sauce agreeably, *
and serve the currie very hot. As we have already stated in two or
* We find that a small portion of Indian pickled mango, or of its liquor, is an
agreeable addition to a currie as well as to mullagatawny soup.


302
[CHIAP. XVI.
MODERN COOKERY.
three previous receipts, an ounce or more of sweet freshly-grated
cocoa-nut, stewed tender in the gravy, and strained from it, before
the sweetbreads are added, will give a peculiarly pleasant flavour to
all curries.
Blanched 10 minutes; sliced (fried or not); stewed 20 to 30
minutes.
CURRIED OYSTERS.
" Let a hundred of large sea-oysters be opened into a basin,
without losing one drop of their liquor. Put a lump of fresh butter
into a good-sized saucepan, and when it boils, add a large onion, cut
into thin slices, and let it fry in the uncovered stewpan until it is of
a rich brown: now add a bit more butter, and two or three table-
spoonsful of currie-powder. When these ingredients are well mixed
over the fire with a wooden spoon, add gradually either hot water,
or broth from the stock-pot; cover the stew pan, and let the whole
boil up. Meanwhile, have ready the meat of a cocoa-nut, grated or
rasped fine, put this into the stewpan with a few sour tamarinds
(if they are to be obtained, if not, a sour apple, chopped). Let the
whole simmer over the fire until the apple is dissolved, and the
cocoa-nut very tender; then add a cupful of strong thickening made
of four and water, and sufficient salt, as a currie will not bear being
salted at table. Let this boil up for five minutes. Have ready
also, a vegetable marrow, or part of one, cut into bits, and sufficiently
boiled to require little or no further cooking. Put this in with a
tomata or two; either of these vegetables may be omitted. Now
put into the stewpan the oysters with their liquor, and the milk
of the cocoa-nut, if it be perfectly sweet; stir them well with the
former ingredients; let the currie stew gently for a few minutes, then
throw in the strained juice of half a lemon. Stir the currie from
time to time with a wooden spoon, and as soon as the oysters are
done enough serve it up with a corresponding dish of rice on the
opposite side of the table. The dish is considered at Madras the
ne plus ultra of Indian cookery."
We have extracted this receipt, as it stands, from the Magazine of
Domestic Economy, the season in which we have met with it not
permitting us to have it tested. Such of our readers as may have
partaken of the true Oriental preparation, will be able to judge of
its correctness; and others may consider it worthy of a trial. We
should suppose it necessary to beard the oysters.
CURRIED GRAVY.
The quantity of onion, eschalot, or garlic used for a currie should
be regulated by the taste of the persons for whom it is prepared; the
* Native oysters, prepared as for sauce, may be curried by the receipt for
eggs or sweetbreads, with the addition of their liquor.


CHAP. XVI.]
303
CURRIES, POTTED MEATS, &c.
very large proportions of them which are acceptable to some eaters,
preventing others altogether from partaking of the dish. Slice, and
fry gently in a little good butter, from two to six large onions (with
a bit of garlic, and four or five eschalots, or none of either), when
they are coloured equally of a fine yellow-brown, lift them on to a
sieve reversed to drain ; put them into a clean saucepan, add a pint
and a half of good gravy, with a couple of ounces of rasped cocoa-
nut, or of any of the other condiments we have already specified,
which may require as much stewing as the onions (an apple or two,
for instance), and simmer them softly from half to three quarters of
an hour, or until the onion is sufficiently tender to be pressed
through a strainer. We would recommend that for a delicate
currie this should always be done; for a common one it is not
necessary; and many persons prefer to have the whole of it left in
this last. After the gravy has been worked through the strainer,
and again boils, add to it from three to four dessertspoonsful of
currie-powder, and one of flour, with as much salt as the gravy may
require, the whole mixed to a smooth batter with a small cupful of
good cream.* Simmer it from fifteen to twenty minutes, and it will
be ready for use. Lobster, prawns, shrimps, maccaroni, hard-boiled
eggs, cold calf's head, and various other meats may be heated and
served in it with advantage. For all of these, and indeed for every
kind of currie, acid of some sort should be added. Chili vinegar
answers well when no fresh lemon-juice is at hand.
Onions, 2 to 6 (garlic, 1 clove, or eschalots, 4 to 5, or neither);
fried a light brown. Gravy, 14 pint ; cocoa-nut, 2 oz. (3, if very
young) : 1 to 1 hour. Currie-powder, 3 to 4 dessertspoonsful; flour,
i dessertspoonful; salt, as needed; cream, 1 small cupful: 15 to 20
minutes.
Obs.-In India, curds are frequently added to curries, but that may
possibly be from their abounding much more than sweet cream in
so hot a climate.
POTTED MEATS.
Any tender and well-roasted meat, taken free of fat, skin, and
gristle, as well as from the dry outsides, will answer for potting ad-
mirably, better indeed than that which is generally baked for the
purpose, and which is usually quite deprived of its juices by the
process. Spiced or corned beef also is excellent when thus prepared ;
and any of these will remain good a long time if mixed with cold
fresh butter, instead of that which is clarified; but no addition that
can be made to it will render the mcat eatable, unless it be thoroughly
pounded; reduceà, in fact, to the smoothest possible paste, free from a
This must be added only just before the currie is dished, when any acid
fruit has been boiled in the gravy: it may then be first blended with a small
portion of arrow-root, or flour.


304
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. XVI
single lump or a morsel of unbroken fibre. If rent into fragments,
instead of being quite cut through the grain in being ininced, befcei:
is put into the mortar, no beating will bring it to the proper state
Unless it be very dry, it is better to pound it for some time before any
butter is added, and it must be long and patiently beaten after all the
ingredients are mixed, that the whole may be equally blended and
well mellowed in flavour.
The quantity of butter required will depend upon the nature of
the meat; ham and salted beef will need a larger proportion than
roast meat, or than the breasts of poultry and game; white fish, from
being less dry, will require comparatively little. Salmon, lobsters,
prawns, and shrimps are all extremely good, prepared in this way.
They should, however, be perfectly fresh when they are poundeid,
and be set immediately afterwards into a very cool place. For these,
and for white meats in general, mace, nutmeg, and cayenne or white
pepper, are the appropriate spices. A small quantity of cloves may
be added to hare and other brown meat, but allspice we would not re-
commend unless the taste is known to be in favour of it. The fol-
lowing receipt for pounding ham will serve as a general one for the
particular manner of proceeding.
POTTED HAM.
very tender.
(An excellent Receipt.)
To be eaten in perfection this should be made with a freshly cured
Jam, which, after having been soaked for twelve hours, should be
wiped dry, nicely trimmed, closely wrapped in coarse paste, and baked
When it comes from the oven, remove the crust and
rind, and when the ham is perfectly cold, take for each pound of
the lean, which should be weighed after every morsel of skin and
fibre has been carefully removed, six ounces of cold roast veal, pre-
pared with equal nicety. Mince these quite fine with an exceedingly
sharp knife, taking care to cut through the meat, and not to tear the
fibre, as on this much of the excellence of the preparation depends.
Next put it into a large stone or marble mortar, and pound it to the
smoothest paste with eight ounces of fresh butter, which must be added
by degrees. When three parts beaten, strew over it a teaspoonful of
freshly-pounded mace, half a large, or the whole of a small nutmeg
grated, and the third of a teaspoonful of cayenne well mixed together
It is better to limit the spice to this quantity in the first instance, and
to increase afterwards either of the three kinds to the taste of the
parties to whom the meat is to be served.f We do not find half a
teaspoonful of cayenne, and nearly two teaspoonsful of mace, more
See Baked Ham, Chapter XIII., page 258.
+ Spice, it must be observed, varies so very greatly in its quality that discretion
is always necessary in using it.


CEAP. Xvi.]
305
CURRIES, POTTED MEATS, &c.
than is generally approved. After the spice is added, keep the meat
often turned from the sides to the middle of the mortar, that it may
be seasoned equally in every part. When perfectly pounded, press it
into small potting-pans, and pour clarified butter* over the top. If
kept in a cool and dry place, this meat will remain good for a fort-
night, or more.
Lean of ham, 1 lb.; lean of roast veal, 6 oz.; fresh butter, 8 oz.;
mace, from 1 to 2 teaspoonsful; } large nutmeg; cayenne, & totca-
spoonful.
Obs.—The roast veal is ordered in this receipt because the ham alone
is generally too salt; for the same reason butter, fresh taken from the
churn, or that which is but slightly salted and quite new, should be
used for it in preference to its own fat. When there is no ready-
dressed veal in the house, the best part of the neck, roasted or stewed,
will supply the requisite quantity. The remains of a cold boiled ham
will answer quite well for potting, even when a little dry.
POTTED CHICKEN, PARTRIDGE, OR PHEASANT,
Roast the birds as for table, but let them be thoroughly done, for
if the gravy be left in, the meat will not keep half so well." Raise the
flesh of the breast, wings, and merrythought, quite clear from the
bones, take off the skin, mince, and then pound it very smoothly with
about one third of its weight of fresh butter, or something less, if the
meat should appear of a proper consistence without the full quantity;
season it with salt, mace, and cayenne only, and add these in small
portions until the meat is rather highly flavoured with both the last •
proceed with it as with other potted meats.
POTTED OX-TONGCE.
Boil tender an unsmoked tongue of good flavour, and the following
day cut from the quantity desired for potting, or take for this
purpose the remains of one which has already been served at table
Trim off the skin and rind, weigh the meat, mince it very small, then
pound it as fine as possible with four ounces of butter to each pound
of tongue, a small teaspoonful of mace, half as much of nutmeg and
cloves, and a tolerably high seasoning of cayenne. After the spices
are well beaten with the meat, taste it, and add more if required. A
few ounces of any well-roasted meat mixed with the tongue will give
it firmness, in which it is apt to be deficient. The breasts of turkeys,
fowls, partridges, or pheasants, may be used for the purpose
with good
effect.
Tongue, 1 lb.; butter, 4 oz.; mace, 1 teaspoonful; nutmeg and
cloves each, 1 teaspoonful; cayenne, 5 to 10 grains.
* This should never be poured hot on the meat: it should be less than milk
warm when added to it.


306
[CAAP IVE
MODERN COOKERY.
POTTED ANCHOVIES.
Scrape the anchovies very clean, raise the flesh from the bones,
and pound it to a perfect paste in a Wedgwood or marble mertar;
then with the back of a wooden spoon press it through a hair-sieve
reversed. Next, weigh the anchovies, and pound them again with
double their weight of the freshest butter that can be procured, a high
seasoning of mace and cayenne, and a small quantity of finely-grated
nutmeg; set the mixture by in a cool place for three or four hours to
harden it before it is put into the potting pans. If butter be poured
over, it must be only lukewarm; but the anchovies will keep well for
two or three weeks without. A very small portion of rose-pink may
be added to improve the colour, but unless it be sparingly used, it
will impart a bitter flavour to the preparation. The quantity of
butter can be increased or diminished in proportion as it is wished
that the flavour of the anchovies should prevail.
Anchovies pounded, 3 oz.; butter, 6 oz.; mace, third of teaspoon-
ful; half as much cayenne; little nutmeg
LOBSTER BUTTER
(For this see page 138, Chapter VI.)
POTTED SIIRIMPS, OR PRAWNS.
(Delicious.)
Let the fish be quite freshly boiled, shell them quickly, and just
before they are put into the mortar, chop them a little with a very
sharp knife ; pound them perfectly with a small quantity of fresh
butter, mace, and cayenne. (See also page 92.)
Shrimps (unshelled), 2 quarts ; butter, 2 to 4 oz.; mace, 1 small
saltspoonful , cayenne, j as much.
POTTED MUSIIROOMS.
The receipt for these, which we can recommend to the reader, will
be found in the next Chapter.
MOULDED POTTED MEAT OR FISH.
(For the second course.)
Press very closely and smoothly into a pan or mould the potted
ham, or any other meat, of the present chapter, pour a thin layer of
clarified butter on the top, and let it become quite cold. When
wanted for table, wind round it for a moment a cloth which has been


CHAP. XVI.]
307
CURRIES, POTTED MEATS, &c.
dipped into hot water, loosen the meat gently from it with a thin
knife, turn it on to a dish, and glaze it lightly lay a border of small
salad round it, with or without a decoration of hard eggs, or surround
it instead with clear savoury jelly cut in dice. The meat, for variety,
may be equally sliced, and laid regularly round a pile of small salad.
A very elegant second course dish may be made with potted lobsters
in this way, the centre being ornamented with a small shape of
lobster hutter. (See page 138.)
POTTED HARE.

The back of a well-roasted hare,
and such other parts of the flesh
as are not sinewy, if potted by the
directions already given for ham
and other meat, will be found
superior to the game prepared as it
usually is by baking it tender either
with a large quantity of butter, or
with barely sufficient water or
gravy to cover it; but when the
old-fashioned mode of potting is
Wedgewood Pestle and Mortar.
preferred, it must be cleansed as for roasting, wiped dry, cut into
joints, which, after being seasoned with salt, cayenne (or pepper),
and pounded cloves and mace or nutmeg well mingled, should
be closely packed in a jar or deep pan, and slowly baked until
very tender, with the addition of from half to a whole pound
of fresh butter laid equally over it, in small bits, or with only
so much water or other liquid as will prevent its becoming hard :
the jar must be well covered with at least two separate folds of
thick brown paper tied closely over it. It should then be left to
become perfectly cold; and the butter (when it has been used)
should be taken off and scraped free from moisture, that it may be
added to the hare in pounding it. All skin and sinew must be care-
fully removed, and the flesh minced before it is put into the mortar.
Additional seasoning must be added if necessary; but the cook must
remember that all should be well blended, and no particular spice
should be allowed to predominate in the flavour of the preparation
When water or gravy has been added to the hare, firm fresh butter
should be used in potting it: it will not require a very large pro-
portion, as the flesh will be far less dry and firm than when it is
roasted, though more of its juices will have been withdrawn from it;
and it will not remain good so long. The bones, gravy, head, and
ribs, will make a small tureen of excellent soup. Thick slices of
lean ham are sometimes baked with the hare, and pounded with it.


308
[CHAP. XVII.
MODERN COOKERY.
CHAPTER XVII.
Vegetables.

The quality of vegetables depends much both on the soil in which
they are grown, and on the degree of care bestowed upon their cul-
ture; but if produced in ever so great perfection, their excellence
will be entirely destroyed if they be badly cooked.
With the exception of artichokes, which are said to be improved
by two or three days' keeping, all the summer varieties should be
dressed before their first freshness has in any degree passed off (for
their flavour is never so fine as witten a few hours of their being cut
or gathered); but when this cannot be done, precaution should be
taken to prevent their withering. The stalk-ends of asparagus,
cucumbers, and vegetable-marrow, should be placed in from one to
two inches of cold water; and all other kinds should be spread on a
cool brick floor. When this has been neglected, they must be thrown
into cold water for some time before they are boiled to recover them,
though they will prove even then but very inferior eating.
Vegetables when not sufficiently cooked are known to be so ex-
ceedingly unwholsome and indigestible, that the custom of serving
them crisp, which means, in reality, only half-boiled, should be
altogether disregarded when health is considered of more importance
than fashion ; but they should not be allowed to remain in the water


CHAP xv..]
309
VEGETABLES.
after they are quite done, or both their nutritive properties and their
flavour will be lost, and their good appearance destroyed. Care
should be taken to drain them thoroughly in a warm strainer, and to
serve them very hot, with well-made sauces, if with any.
Only dried peas or beans, Jerusalem artichokes, and potatoes, are
put at first into cold water. All others require plenty of fast-boiling
water, which should be ready salted and skimmed before they are
thrown into it
TO CLEAR VEGETABLES FROM INSECTS.
Lay them for half an hour or more into a pan of strong brine, with
the stalk ends uppermost; this will destroy the small snails and other
insects which cluster in the leaves, and they will fall out and sink to
the bottom. A pound and a half of salt to the gallon of water will
answer for this purpose, and if strained daily it will last for some
time.
TO BOIL VEGETABLES GREEN,
After they have been properly prepared and washed, throw them
into plenty of boiling water which has been salted and well skimmed ;
and keep them uncovered and boiling fast until they are done, taking
Very precaution against their being smoked. Should the water be
very hard, a smalí half-teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, may be
added with the salt, for every two quarts, and will greatly improve
the colour of the vegetables; but if used in undue proportion it will
injure them; green peas especially will be quickly reduced to a mash
if boiled with too large a quantity.
Water, 1 gallon ; salt, 2 oz ; soda, 1 oz.; or carbonate of soda, 1
teaspoonful
POTATOES.
(Remarks on their properties and importance.)
There is no vegetable commonly cultivated in this country, we
venture to assert, which is comparable in value to the potato when it
is of a good sort, has been grown in a suit ble soil, and is properly
cooked and served. It must be very nutritious, or it would not sus-
tain the strength of thousands of people whose almost sole food it
constitutes, and who, when they can procure a sufficient supply of it
to satisfy fully the demands of hunger, are capable of accomplishing
the heaviest daily labour. It may not be wise to depend for sub-
sistence on a root of which the crop unhappily is so frequently in
these days destroyed or greatly injured by disease, and for which it
is so difficult to find a substitute that is equally cheap, wholesome
and satisfying; but we can easily comprehend the predilection of an
entire people for a tuber which combines, like the potato, the so-


310
[CHAP. ANT.
MODERN COOKERY.
lidity almost of bread, with the healthful properties * of various other
fresh vegetables, without their acidity; and which can also be cooked
and served in so many different forms. The wretched manner in
which it is dressed in many English houses renders it comparatively
valueless, and accounts in a measure for the prodigality with
which it is thrown away when cold, even in seasons when its price
is highest.t
TO BOIL POTATOES.
(As in Ireland.)
Potatoes, to boil well together, should be all of the same sort, and
as nearly equal in size as may be. Wash off the mould, and scrub
them very clean with a hard brush, but neither scoop nor apply a
knife to them in any way, even to clear the eyes. Rinse them well,
and arrange them compactly in a saucepan, so that they may not lie
loose in the water, and that a small quantity may suffice to cover
them. Pour this in cold, and when it boils, throw in about a large
teaspoonful of salt to the quart, and simmer the potatoes until they
are nearly done, but for the last two or three minutes let them boil
rapidly. When they are tender quite through, which may be known
by probing them with a fork, pour all the water from them imme-
diately, lift the lid of the saucepan to allow the steam to escape, and
place them on a trivet, high over the fire, or by the side of it, until
the moisture has entirely evaporated; then peel, and send them to
table as quickly as possible, either in a hot napkin, or in a dish, of
which the cover is so placed that the steam can pass off. There
should be no delay in serving them after they are once taken from
the fire. Irish families always prefer them served in their skins.
Some kinds will be sufficiently boiled in twenty minutes, others in
not less than three quarters of an hour.
20 minutes to 1 hour, or more.
* The late Dr. Pereira has stated in his excellent work on diet, page 370, that
Dr. Baly, who has published some interesting observations on the anti-scorbutic
quality of the potato, says, “ As ordinarily cooked, it is an admirable preserrative
against the scurvy," for which it appears to be also a cure, see the same work.
+ We cannot refrain from a few words of remark here on the daily waste of
wholesome food in this country which constitutes one of the most serious
domestic abuses that exist amongst us; and one which it is most painful to
witness while we see at the same time the half-starvation of large masses of our
people. It is an evil which the steady and resolute opposition of the educated
classes would soon greatly check; and which ought not vainly to appeal to their
good sense and good feeling, augmenting, as it must, the privations of the
scantily-fed poor; for the “waste" of one part of the community cannot fail to
increase the “want" of the remainder.
" Because,” in the words of our clever Irish correspondent, the water
through these parts is then admitted into the very heart of the vegetable; and
the latent heat, after cooking, is not sufficient to throw it off, this renders the
potatoes very unwholesome,
(G


CHAP. XVII.]
311
VEGETABLES.
Obs. 1.—The water in which they are boiled should barely cover the
potatoes. After it is poured off, they should be steamed for twenty
minutes or half an hour, if large.
Obs. 2.—Habitual potato-eaters know well that this vegetable is never
so good as when served in the skin the instant it is taken from the fire,
dished in a hot napkin, or sent to table without a cover over it. It
should also be clean and dry that it may at pleasure be taken in the
fingers and broken like bread, or held in the dinner napkin while the
inside is scooped out with the fork, thus forming it into a sort of cup.
The large Yorkshire Regents dressed and eaten in this way afford in
themselves an almost sufficient meal. We have found from long
daily experience, that those which averaged three, or at the utmost
four to the pound, were the best in quality, and remained so to quite
the end of their season: they required as the spring advanced, an
hour's boiling or more.
TO BOIL POTATOES.
(The Lancashire way.)
Pare the potatoes, cover them with cold water, and boil them slowly
until they are quite tender, but watch them carefully, that they may
not be overdone; drain off the water entirely, strew some salt over
them, leave the saucepan uncovered by the side of the fire, and shake
it forcibly every minute or two, until the whole of the potatoes appear
dry and floury. Lancashire cooks dress the vegetable in this way to
perfection, but it is far from an economical mode, as a large portion
of the potato adheres to the saucepan ; it has, however, many
admirers.
TO BOIL NEW POTATOES.
· These are never good unless freshly dug. Take them of equal
size, and rub off the skins with a brush or a very coarse cloth, wasb
them clean, and put them without salt into boiling, or at least, quite
hot water ; boil them softly, and when they are tender enough to
serve, pour off the water entirely, strew some fine salt over them, give
them a shake, and let them stand by the fire in the saucepan for a
minute; then dish and serve them immediately. Some cooks throw
in a small slice of fresh butter, with the salt, and toss them gently in
it after it is dissolved. This is a good mode, but the more usual one
is to send melted butter to table with them, or to pour white sauce
over them when they are very young, and served early in the
season.
Very small, 10 to 15 minutes: moderate sized, 15 to 20 minutes.
Obs.- We always, for our own eating, have new potatoes steamed
for ten minutes or longer after the water is poured from them, and
think they are much improved by the process. They should be tho-
roughly boiled before this is done.


312
[CHAP. XVI.
MODERN COOKERY.
NEW POTATOES IN BUTTER.
Rub off the skins, wash the potatoes well and wipe them dry; put
them with three ounces of good butter, for a small dish, and with
four ounces or more for a large one, into a well-tinned stewpan or
saucepan, and simmer them over a gentle fire for about half an hour
Keep them well shaken or tossed, that they may be equally done, and
throw in some salt when they begin to stew. This is a good mode of
dressing them when they are very young and watery.
TO BOIL POTATOES.
(Captain Kater's Receipt.)
Wash, wipe, and pare the potatoes, cover them with cold water,
and boil them gently until they are done, pour off the water, and
sprinkle a little fine salt over them; then take each potato separately
with a spoon, and lay it into a clean warm cloth, twist this so as to
press all the moisture from the vegetable, and render it quite round;
turn it carefully into a dish placed before the fire, throw a cloth over,
and when all are done, send them to table quickly. Potatoes dressed
in this way are mashed without the slightest trouble ; it is also by far
the best method of preparing them for puddings or for cakes.
TO ROAST OR BAKE POTATOES.
Scrub and wash exceedingly clean some potatoes nearly assorted in
size; wipe them very dry, and roast them in a Dutch oven before the
fire, placing them at a distance from it, and keeping them often
turned; or arrange them in a coarse dish, and bake them in a mo-
derate oven. Dish them neatly in a napkin, and send them very hot
to table; serve cold butter with them.
14 to upwards of 2 hours.
SCOOPED POTATOES.
(ENTREMETS.*)
Wash and wipe some large
potatoes of a firm kind, and
with a small scoop adapted to
the purpose, † form as many
diminutive ones as will fill a dish; cover them with cold water, and
when they have boiled very gently for five minutes pour it off, and
put more cold water to them; after they have simmered a second
time for five minutes, drain the water quite away, place the cover of
the saucepan so as to leave an inch or more of open space for the
* Or second course dish.
+ This may be procured of any ironmonger.


CHAP. XVII.]
313
VEGETABLES.
moisture to evaporate, and let them steam by the side of the fre from
four to five minutes longer. Dish them carefully, pour white sauce
over them, and serve them in the second course. Old potatoes thus
prepared, have often been made to pass for new ones, at the best
tables, at the season in which the fresh vegetable was dearest.* The
time required to boil them will of course vary with their quality we
give the method which we have found very successful.
CRISPED POTATOES, OR POTATO-RIBBONS. (ENTREMETS.)
(Or to serve with Cheese.)
Wash well, and wipe, some potatoes of good flavour; cut them up
into slices of from half to a whole inch thick, free them from the
skins, and then pare them round and round in very thin, and very
long ribbons. Lay them into a pan of cold water, and half an hour
before they are wanted for table lift them on to a sieve that they
may be well drained. Fry them in good butter, which should be
very hot when they are thrown in, until they are quite crisp, and
lightly browned ; drain and dry them on a soft cloth, pile them in a
hot dish, strew over them a mixed seasoning of salt and cayenne in
fine powder, and serve them without delay. For the second course,
dress them in the same manner, but omit the cayenne. Five or six
minutes will fry them
(ENTREMETS.)
(A Plainer Receipt.)
After having washed them, wipe and pare some raw potatoes, cut
them in slices of equal thickness, or into thin shavings, and throw
them into plenty of boiling butter, or very pure clarified dripping.
Fry them of a fine light brown, and very crisp ; lift them out with a
skimmer, drain them on a soft warm cloth, dish them very hot, and
sprinkle fine salt over them. This is an admirable way of dressing
potatoes, very common on the Continent, but less so in England than
it deserves to be. Pared in ribbons or shavings of equal width, as in
the receipt above, and served dry and well fried, lightly piled in
a dish, they make a handsome appearance, and are excellent eating
If sliced they should be something less than a quarter of an inch
thick.
FRIED POTATOES.
MASHED POTATOES.
Boil them perfectly tender quite through, pour off the water, and
steam them very dry by the directions already given in the receipt of
* Vegetables and fruit are now so generally forced and brought so early into
our markets, that there is little need of these expedients at present.


314
[CHAP. XVI.
MODERN COOKERY.
page 310, peel them quickly, take out every speck, and while they are
still hot, press the potatoes through an earthen cullender, or bruise
them to a smooth mash with a strong wooden fork or spoon, but
never pound them in a mortar, as that will reduce them to a close
heavy paste. Let them be entirely free from iumps, for nothing can
be more indicative of carelessness or want of skill on the part of the
cook, than mashed potatoes sent to table full of these. Melt in a
clean saucepan a slice of good butter with a few spoonsful of milk,
or, better still, of cream; put in the potatoes after having sprinkled
some fine salt upon them, and stir the whole over a gentle fire with
a wooden spoon, until the ingredients are well-mixed, and the whole
is very hot. It may then be served directly ; or heaped high in a
dish, Ieft rough on the surface, and browned before the fire; or it
may be pressed into a well buttered mould of handsome form, which
has been strewed with the finest bread crumbs, and shaken free from
the loose ones, then turned out, and browned in a Dutch or common
oven. More or less liquid will be required to moisten sufficiently
potatoes of various kinds.
Potatoes mashed, 2 lbs.; salt, 1 teaspoonful; butter, 1 to 2 oz.;
milk or cream, # pint.
Obs.-Mashed potatoes are often moulded with a cup, and then
equally browned: any other shape will answer the purpose as well,
and many are of better appearance.
ENGLISU POTATO BALLS, OR CROQUETTES.
Boil some floury potatoes very dry, mash them as smoothly as
possible, season them well with salt and white pepper, warm them
with about an ounce of butter to the pound, or rather more if it will
not render them too moist, and a few spoonsful of good cream. Boil
them very dry; let them cool a little, roll them into balls, sprinkle
over them vermicelli crushed slightly with the hand, and fry them a
fine light brown. They may be dished round a shape of plain
mashed potatoes, or piled on a napkin by themselves. They may
likewise be rolled in egg and fine bread-crumbs instead of in the
vermicelli, or in ground rice, which answers very well for them.
POTATO BOULETTES. (EXTREMETS.)
(Good)
Boil some good potatoes as dry as possible, or let them de pre-
pared by Captain Kater's receipt; mash a pound of them very
smoothly, and mix with them while they are still warm, two ounces
of fresh butter, a teaspoonful of salt, a little nutmeg, the beaten and
strained yolks of four eggs, and last of all the whites thoroughly
whisked. Mould the mixture with a teaspoon and drop it into a
small pan of boiling butter, or of very pure lard, and fry the
boulettes for five minutes over a moderate fire: they should be of a


CHAP. xvii.]
315
VEGETABLES.
fine pale brown, and very light. Drain them well and dish them on
a hot napkin.
Potatoes, 1 lb.; butter, 2 oz.; salt, 1 teaspoonful; eggs, 4: 5
minutes.
Obs.—These boulettes are exceeding light and delicate, and make
an excellent dish for the second course; but we think that a few
spoonsful of sweet fresh cream boiled with them until the mixture
becomes dry, would both enrich them and improve their flavour.
They should be dropped into the pan with the teaspoon, as the
ought to be small, and they will swell in the cooking.
POTATO RISSOLES.
(French.)
Mash and season the potatoes with salt, and white pepper or
cayenne, and mix with them plenty of minced parsley, and a small
quantity of green onions, or eschalots; add sufficient yolks of eggs to
bind the mixture together, roll it into small balls, and fry them in
plenty of lard or butter over a moderate fire, or they will be too
much browned before they are done through. Ham, or any other
kind of meat finely minced, may be substituted for the herbs, or
added to them.
POTATOES A LA MAÎTRE D'AOTEL.
Boil in the usual manner some potatoes of a firm kind, peel, and
let them cool; then cut them equally into quarter-inch slices. Dis-
solve in a very clean stewpan or saucepan from two to four ounces of
good butter, stir to it a small dessertspoonful of flour, and shake the
pan over the fire for two or three minutes ; add by slow degrees a
small cupful of boiling water, some pepper, salt, and a tablespoonful
of minced parsley; put in the potatoes, and toss them gently over a
clear fire until they are quite hot, and the sauce adheres well to
them: at the instant of serving add a dessertspoonful of strained
lemon-juice. Pale veal gravy may be substituted for the water; and
the potatoes after being thickly sliced, may be quickly cut of the
same size with a small round cutter.
POTATOES A LA CREME.
Prepare the potatoes as above, and toss them gently in a quarter
of a pint or more of thick white sauce or of common bechamel, with
or without the addition of the minced parsley.
KOHL CANNON, OR KALE CANNON.
(An Irish Receipt.)
Mix in about equal proportions (these can be varied to suit the
convenience of the moment) some smoothly mashed potatoes, and


CHAP. XVI.]
317
VEGETABLES.
then throw it directly into plenty of fresh water, and when it is cool
form it into balls and press the moisture thoroughly from it with the
hands. Next, chop it extremely fine upon a clean trencher; put two
ounces (for a large dish) of butter into a stewpan or bright thick
saucepan, lay the spinach on it, and keep it stirred over a gentle fire
for ten minutes, or until it appears dry; dredge in a spoonful of
flour, and turn the spinach as it is added; pour to it gradually, a
few spoonsful of very rich veal gravy, or, if preferred, of good
boiling cream (with the last of these a dessertspoonful or more of
pounded sugar may be added for a second-course dish, when the
true French mode of dressing the vegetable is liked.) Stew the
whole briskly until the liquid is entirely absorbed ; dish, and serve
the spinach very hot, with small, pale fried sippets round it, or with
leaves of puff paste fresh from the oven, or well dried after having
been fried. For ornament, the sippets may be fancifully shaped with
a tin cutter. A proper seasoning of salt must not be omitted in this,
or any other preparation of the spinach.
SPINACH A L'ANGLAISE. (ENTREMETS.)
(Or, English fashion)
Boil the spinach as already directed, and after it has been well
squeezed and chopped, stir it over a moderate fire until it is very dry;
moisten it with as much thick rich gravy as will flavour it well, and
"urn and stew it quite fast until it is again very dry; then press it
into a hot mould of handsome form, turn it into a dish and serve it
quickly. Two or three ounces of fresh butter may be laid into the
saucepan with the spinach at first, as a substitute for the gravy.
When a perforated tin shape, ordinarily used for moulding spinach,
is not at hand, one of earthenware, slightly buttered, will serve
nearly as well.
SPINACH.
(Common English mode.)
Boil the spinach very green in plenty of water, drain, and then
press the moisture fron it between two trenchers; chop it small, put
it into a clean saucepan, with a slice of fresh butter, and stir the
whole until well mixed and very hot. Smooth it in a dish, mark it
in dice, and send it quickly to table.
ANOTHER COMMON ENGLISH RECEIPT FOR SPINACH.
Take it leaf by leaf from the stalks, and be very careful to clear it
from any weeds that may be amongst it, and to free it by copious
and repeated washings from every particle of sand, or carth. Put


318
[CHAP. KHI
MODERN COOKERY.
it into a large well-tinned stewpan or saucepan, with the water only
which hangs about it; throw in a small spoonful of salt, and keep it
constantly pressed down with a wooden spoon, and turned often for
about a quarter of an hour, or until it is perfectly tend r. Drain off
the superfluous moisture, chop the spinach quickly on a hot trencher;
dish and serve it immediately. Fried sippets of bread should always
be served round this vegetable, unless it be prepared for an invalid.
TO DRESS DANDELIONS LIKE SPINACH, OR AS A SALAD.
(Very wholesome.)
This common weed of the fields and highways is an excellent
vegetable, the young leaves forming an admirable adjunct to a salad,
and much resembling endive when boiled and prepared in the same
way, or in any of the modes directed for spinach. The slight bitter-
ness of its flavour is to many persons very agreeable; and it is often
served at well-appointed tables. It has also, we believe, the advan-
tage of possessing valuable medicinal qualities. Take the roots before
the blossom is at all advanced, if they can readily be found in that
state ; if not, pluck off and use the young leaves only. Wash them
as clean as possible, and boil them tender in a large quantity of water
salted as for sprouts or spinach. Drain them well, press them dry
with a wooden spoon, and serve them quite plain with melted butter
in a tureen; or, squeeze, chop, and heat them afresh, with a season-
ing of salt and pepper, a morsel of butter rolled in flour, and a
spoonful or two of gravy or cream. A very large portion of the
leaves will be required for a dish, as they shrink exceedingly in the
cooking. For a salad, take them very young and serve them entire,
or break them quite small with the fingers; then wash and drain
them. Dress them with oil and vinegar, or with any other sauce
which may be preferred with them
BOILED TURNIP-RADISIES.
These should be freshly drawn, young and white. Wash and
trim them neatly, leaving on two or three of the small inner leaves
of the top. Boil them in plenty of salted water from twenty to
thirty minutes, and as soon as they are tender send them to table
well drained, with melted butter or white sauce. Common radishes
when young, tied in bunches, and boiled from eighteen to twenty-
five minutes, then served on a toast like asparagus, are very good.
BOILED LEEKS.
Trim off the coarser leaves from some young leeks, cut them into
equal lengths, tie them into small bunches, and boil them in plenty


CHAP. XV11.]
319
VEGETABLES.
of water which has been previously salted and skimmed ; serve them
on a toast, and send melted butter to table with them
20 to 25 minutes
STEWED LETTUCES.
Strip off the outer leaves, and cut away the stalks; wash the
lettuces with exceeding nicety, and throw them into water salted as
for all green vegetables. When they are quite tender, which will be
in from twenty to thirty minutes, according to their age, lift them
out and press the water thoroughly from them; chop them a little,
and heat them in a clean saucepan with a seasoning of pepper and
salt, and a small slice of butter; then dredge in a little flour and stir
them well; add next a small cup of broth or gravy, boil them
quickly until they are tolerably dry, then stir in a little pale vinegar
or lemon-juice, and serve them as hot as possible, with fried sippets
round them.
TO BOIL ASPARAGUS.
With a sharp knife scrape the stems of the asparagus lightly but
very clean, from within one to two inches of the green tender points ;
throw them into cold water as they are done, and when all are ready,
tie them in bunches of equal size, cut the large ends evenly, that the
asparagus may be all of the same length, and put it into plenty of
boiling water prepared by the directions of page 309. Cut a round
of bread quite half an inch thick, and after having pared off the
crust, toast it a delicate brown on both sides. When the stalks of
the asparagus are tender, lift it out directly, or it will lose both its
colour and its flavour, and will also be liable to break; dip the toast
quickly into the water in which it was boiled, and dish the vegetable
upon it, with the points meeting in the centre. Send rich melted
butter to table with it. In France, a small quantity of vinegar is
stirred into the sauce before it is served ; and many persons like the
addition. Asparagus may be preserved for a day or two sufficiently
fresh for usc, by keeping the stalks immersed in an inch-depth of
cold water; but it is never so good as when dressed directly it is cut,
or within a few hours after
20 to 25 minutes.
Obs.-Abroad, boiled asparagus is very frequently served cold,
and eaten with oil and vinegar, or a sauce Mayonnaise.
ASPARAGUS POINTS DRESSED LIKE PEAS. (ENTREMETS.
This is a convenient mode of dressing asparagus, when it is too
small and green to make a good appearance plainly boiled. Cut the
points so far only as they are perfectly tender, in bits of equal size,
not more than the third of an inch in length; wash them very clear,


320
[CHAP. XVII
MODERN COOKERY.
and throw them into plenty of boiling water, with the usual quantity
of salt and a few grains of carbonate of soda. When they are
tolerably tender, which will be in from ten to twelve minutes, drain
them well, and spread them on a clean cloth; fold it over them,
wipe them gently, and when they are quite dry put them into a clean
stewpan with a good slice of butter, which should be just dissolved
before the asparagus is added; stew them in this over a brisk fire,
shaking them often, for eight or ten minutes; dredge in about a
small teaspoonful of flour, and add half that quantity of white sugar;
then pour in boiling water to nearly cover the asparagus, and boil it
rapidly until but little liquid remains : stir in the beaten yolks of
two eggs, heap the asparagus high in a dish, and serve it very hot.
The sauce should adhere entirely to the vegetable as in green peas
à la Française.
TO BOIL GREEN PEAS.
To be eaten in perfection these should be young, very freshly
gathered, and shelled just before they are boiled ; should there be
great inequality in their size, the smaller ones may be separated from
the others, and thrown into the saucepan four or five minutes later.
Wash, and drain the peas in a cullender, put them into plenty of
fast-boiling water, salted by the directions of page 309; keep the pan
uncovered, and let them boil rapidly until they are tender; drain
them well, dish them quickly, and serve them very not, with good
melted butter in a tureen; or put a slice of fresh butter into the
midst of the peas, heap them well over it in the centre of the dish,
and let it dissolve before they are disturbed. Never, on any account,
boil or mix mint with them unless it be expressly ordered, as it is
particularly distasteful to many persons. It should be served in
small heaps round them, if at all.
15 to 25 minutes, or more if old.
GREEN PEAS A LA FRANÇAISE, OR FRENCII FASHION.
(ENTREMETS).
Throw a quart of young and freshly-shelled peas into plenty of
spring water with a couple of ounces of butter, and with the hand
work thein together until the butter adheres well to the peas ; lift
them out, and drain them in a cullender ; put them into a stewpan or
thick saucepan without any water, and let them remain over a gentle
fire, and be stirred occasionally for twenty minutes from the time of
their first beginning to simmer; then pour to them as much boiling
water as will just cover them; throw in a small quantity of salt, and
keep them boiling quickly for forty minutes: stir well amongst them
a small lump of sugar which has been dipped quickly into water, and
a thickening of about half an ounce of butter very smoothly mixed
with a teaspoonful of flour; shake them over the fire for two


CHAP. XVII.]
321
VEGETABLES.
minutes, and serve them directly heaped high in a very hot dish.
there will be no sauce except that which adheres to the peas if they
be properly managed. We have found marrowfats excellent, dressed by
this receipt. Fresh and good butter should be used with them always
Peas, i quart; butter, 2 oz. : 20 minutes. Water to cover the
peas; little salt: 40 minutes. Sugar, small lump; butter, } oz.;
dour, 1 teaspoonful: 2 minutes.
GREEN PEAS WITH CREAM. (ENTREMETS.)
Boil a quart of young peas perfectly tender in salt and water, and
drain them as dry as possible. Dissolve an ounce and a half of
butter in a clean stewpan, stir smoothly to it when it boils a dessert-
spoonful of flour, and shake these over the fire for three or four
minutes, but without allowing them to take the slightest colour;
pour gradually to them a cup of rich cream, add a small lump of
sugar pounded, let the sauce boil, then put in the peas and toss them
gently in it nntil they are very hot: dish, and serve them quickly.
Peas, 1 quart: 18 to 25 minutes. Butter, 1} oz.; flour, 1 desse:rt-
spoonful: 3 to 5 minutes. Sugar, 1 saltspoonful; cream, 1 cupful.
TO BOIL FRENCH BEANS.
When the beans are very small and young, merely take off the
ends and stalks, and drop them into plenty of spring water as they
are done ; when all are ready wash and drain them well, throw them
into a large saucepan of fast-boiling water, salted as usual (see page
309), and when they are quite tender, which will be in from twelve
to eighteen minutes, pour them into a cullender, shake the water
from them, dish, and send them quickly to table with good melted
butter in a tureen. When from half to two parts grown, cut the
beans obliquely into a lozenge form, or, when a less modern fashion
is preferred, split them lengthwise into delicate strips, and then cut
them once across: the strings should be drawn off with the tops and
stalks. No mode of dressing it can render this vegetable good when
it is old, but if the sides be pared off, the beans cut thin, and boiled
tender with rather more than the ordinary proportion of soda, they
will be of excellent colour, and tolerably eatable.
FRENCH BEANS A LA FRANÇAISE. (ENTREMETS.)
Boil, and drain them thoroughly; then put them into a clean
stewpan, or well-tinned iron saucepan, and shake them over the fire
until they are very dry and hot; add to them from two to four
ounces of fresh butter cut into small bits, some white pepper, a little
salt, and the juice of half a lemon toss them gently for a few
minutes over a clear fire, and serve them very hot. Should the
butter turn to oil, a spoonful or two of veal gravy or boiling water
must be added.
Y


322
[CHAP. XVII.
MODERN COOKERY.
AN EXCELLENT RECEIPT FOR FRENCH BEANS A LA FRANÇAISE.
Prepare as many young and freshly-gathered beans as will serve
for a large dish, boil them tender, and drain the water well from them.
Melt a couple of ounces of fresh butter, in a clean saucepan, and stir
smoothly to it. a small dessertspoonful of flour ; keep these well
shaken, and gently simmered until they are lightly browned, add salt
and pepper, and pour to them by degrees a small cupful of good veal
gravy (or, in lieu of this, of sweet rich cream), toss the beans in the
sauce until they are as hot as possible; stir quickly in, as they are
taken from the fire, the beaten yolks of two fresh eggs, and a little
lemon-juice, and serve them without delay. The eggs and lemon are
sometimes omitted, and a tablespoonful of minced parsley is added to
the butter and flour; but this, we think, is scarcely an improvement.
Beans, 1 to 2 quarts: boiled 15 to 20 minutes. Butter, 2 oz.;
flour, 1 dessertspoonful; salt and pepper ; veal gravy, small cupful ;
yolks of eggs, 2; lemon-juice, a dessertspoonful.
TO BOIL WINDSOR BEANS.
When young, freshly gathered, and well dressed, these beans, even
with many persons accustomed to a luxurious table, are a favourite
accompaniment to a dish of streaked bacon, or delicate pickled pork,
Shell them only just before they are wanted, then wash, drain, and
throw them into boiling water, salted as for peas. When they are
quite tender, pour them into a hot cullender, drain them thoroughly,
and send them to table quickly, with a tureen of parsley and butter,
or with plain melted butter, when it is preferred. A boiled cheek of
bacon, trimmed free of any blackened parts, may be dished over the
beans, upon occasion.
20 to 30 minutes; less, when very young.
Obs.-When the skin of the beans appears wrinkled, they will
generally be found sufficiently tender to serve, but they should be
tasted to ascertain that they are so. This vegetable is often skinned
after it is boiled, and then gently tossed up with a little butter before
it is dished.
DRESSED CUCUMBERS.
Pare and slice them very thin, strew a little fine salt over them,
and when they have stood a few minutes, drain off the water, ly
raising one side of the dish, and letting it flow to the other; pour it
away, strew more salt, and a moderate seasoning of pepper on thein,
add two or three tablespoonsful of the purest salad-oil, and turn the
cucumbers well, that the whole may receive a portion of it; then
pour over them from one to three dessertspoonsful of chili vinegar,
and a little common, should it be needed ; turn them into a clean dish
and serve them.


CHAP. XVII.]
VEGETABLES.
323
Obs. If very young, cucumbers are usually dressed without being
pared, but the tough rind of full-grown ones being extremely indi-
gestible, should be avoided. The vegetable, though apt to disagree
with persons of delicate habit, when sauced in the common English
mode, with salt, pepper, and vinegar only, may often be eaten by them
with impunity when dressed with plenty of oil. It is difficult to
obtain this perfectly fresh and pure here; and hence, perhaps, arises
in part the prejudice which, amongst us, is so often found to exist
against the use of this most wholesome condiment.
MANDRANG, OR MANDRAM.
(West Indian Receipt.)
Chop together very small, two moderate-sized cucumbers, with half
the quantity of mild onion; add the juice of a lemon, a saltspoonful
or more of salt, a third as much of cayenne, and one or two glasses of
Madeira, or of any other dry white wine. This preparation is to be
served with any kind of roast meat.
ANOTHER RECEIPT FOR MANDRAM.
Take three or four cucumbers, so young as not to require paring;
score the ends well, that when they are sliced they may fall into small
bits ; add plenty of young onions, cut fine, the juice of half a lemon, a
glass of sherry or Madeira, and a dessertspoonful of chili vinegar.
DRESSED CUCUMBERS.
(Author's Receipt.)
Cut into lengths of an inch or rather more, one or two freshly ga.
thered cucumbers, take off the rind, and then pare them round and
round into thin ribbons, until the watery part is reached :—this is to
be thrown aside. When all are done, sprinkle them with cayenne and
fine salt, and leave them to drain a little; then arrange them lightly
in a clean dish, and sauce them with very fine oil, well mixed with
chili vinegar, or with equal parts of chili and of common vinegar.
Cucumbers, 2 or 3 ; salt, 1 to 2 saltspoonsful ; little cayenne; oil,
6 to 8 tablespoonsful ; chili vinegar, or equal parts of this and
common vinegar, 2 to 4 tablespoonsful.
Obs. When the flavour of eschalots is much liked, a teaspoonful
or more of the vinegar in which they have been steeped or pickled
may be added to this dish.
STEWED CUCUMBERS.
(English mode.)
Pare, and split into quarters, four or five full-grown but still young
cucumbers; take out the seeds and cut each part in two; sprinkle


324
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. XVII.
them with white pepper or cayenne ; flour and fry them lightly in a
little butter, lift them from the pan, drain them on a sieve, then lay
them into as much good brown gravy as will nearly cover them, and
stew them gently from twenty-five to thirty minutes, or until they
are quite tender. Should the gravy require to be thickened or
flavoured, dish the cucumbers and keep them hot while a little flour
and butter, or any other of the usual ingredients, is stirred into it.
Some persons like a small portion of lemon-juice, or of chili vinegar
added to the sauce; cucumber vinegar might be substituted for these
with very good effect, as the vegetable loses much of its fine and
peculiar flavour when cooked.
25 to 30 minutes.
Obs.- The cucumbers may be left in entire lengths, thrown into
well-salted boiling water, and simmered for ten minutes, then
thoroughly drained upon the back of a sieve, and afterwards stewed
very quickly until tender in some highly-flavoured brown gravy, or
in the Spanish sauce of page 101.
CUCUMBERS A LA POULETTE.
The cucumbers for this dish may be pared and sliced very thin;
or quartered, freed from the seeds, and cut into half-inch lengths; in
either case they should be steeped in a little vinegar and sprinkled
with salt for half an hour before they are dressed. Drain, and then
press them dry in a soft cloth; flour them well, put a slice of butter
into a stewpan or saucepan bright in the inside, and when it begins to
boil throw in the cucumbers, and shake them over a gentle fire for
ten minutes, but be careful to prevent their taking the slightest
colour; pour to them gradually as much strong, but very pale real
stock or gravy as will nearly cover them ; when it boils skim off the
fat entirely, add salt and white pepper if needed, and when the
cucumbers are quite tender, strew in a large teaspoonful of finely-
minced parsley, and thicken the sauce with the yolks of two or three
eggs. French cooks add the flour when the vegetable has stewed in
the butter, instead of dredging it upon them at first, and this is
perhaps the better method.
CUCUMBERS A LA CRÊME.
Boil them tolerably tender in salt and water, drain them well, then
stew them for a few minutes in a thick béchamel, and serve them in it.
FRIED CUCUMBERS TO SERVE IN COMMON HASHES AND MINCES.
If very young they need not be pared, but otherwise, take off the
rind, slice, and dredge them lightly with pepper and flour, but put no
salt at first ; throw them into very hot butter or clarified dripping, or
they will not brown; when they are nearly done sprinkle some salt


CHAP. XVI.]
325
VEGETABLES.
amongst them, and as soon as they are quite tender, lift them out with
a slice, drain them well, and place them lightly over the hash or
A small portion of onion may be fried with them when it
it is liked.
mince.
MELON
This in France and in other parts of the Continent is served and
eaten with the bouilli (or beef boiled tender in the soup-pot), with a
seasoning of salt and pepper only; but the fruit is there far more
abundant, and of infinitely finer growth than with us, and requires so
little care, comparatively, that it is planted in many places in the
open fields, where it flourishes admirably.
TO BOIL CAULIFLOWERS.
Trim off the outside leaves, and cut the stems quite close to the
cauliflowers ; let them lie for an hour in plenty of cold water with a
handful of salt in it, to draw out any insects that may be amongst
them; then wash them very thoroughly, and examine them well, to
be assured that none remain in any part of them; throw them into a
large pan of boiling water salted as for asparagus, and quite cleared
from scum; for this, if not removed, will addiere to the cauliflowers
and spoil their appearance. When the stalks are tender lift them
out, dish them neatly, and send good melted butter to table with
them.
20 to 30 minutes.
CAULIFLOWERS.
(French Receipt.)
Cut the cauliflowers into small handsome tufts, and boil them until
three parts done, drain them well, toss them for a moment in some
thick melted butter or white sauce, and set them by to cool. When
they are quite cold, dip them separately into the batter of Chapter V.,
fry them a light brown, arrange them neatly in a dish, and serve
them very hot.
CAULIFLOWERS WITH PARMESAN CHEESE.
Take all the green leaves from two or three fine white cauliflowers,
and cut the stalks off very closely, so that they will stand upright in
the dish in which they are served; boil them tolerably tender, but
not sufficiently so as to hazard their breaking; drain them well, and
dish them, so as to give the whole the appearance of one cauliflower ;
pour a little good white sauce equally over the tops, and on this strew
grated Parmesan cheese, drop over it a little clarified butter, ada
another layer of cheese, and cover the whole with the finest bread-
crumbs; moisten these with more clarified butter, and brown thein


326
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. XVI.
with a salamander, or set the dish into the oven, to give them colour;
pour white sauce round the cauliflowers, and send them very hot to
table.
CAULIFLOWERS A LA FRANÇAISE.
Strip away all the green leaves, and divide each cauliflower into
three or four parts, trimming the stalks quite close; put them, with
the heads downwards, into a stewpan which will just hold them, half
filled with boiling water, into which an ounce of good butter and
some salt have previously been thrown; so soon as they are quite
tender, drain the water from them, place a dish over the stewpan and
turn it gently upside down; arrange the vegetables neatly in the form
of one large cauliflower and cover it with good melted butter, into
which a little lemon-juice has been stirred.
12 to 18 minutes.
BROCCOLI.
This is boiled, and served in the same manner as cauliflowers when
the heads are large; the stems of the branching broccoli are peeled,
and the vegetable, tied in bunches, is dressed and served, like aspa-
ragus, upon a toast.
10 to 20 minutes.
TO BOIL ARTICHOKES.
After they have been soaked and well washed, cut off the stems
quite close, trim away a few of the lower leaves, and clip the points
of all; throw the artichokes into plenty of fast-boiling water, ready
salted and skimmed, with the addition of the proportion of soda
directed in page 309, as this will greatly improve the colour of the
vegetable. When extremely young, the artichokes will be tender in
from half to three quarters of an hour, but they will require more
than double that time when at their full growth : when the leaves
can be drawn out easily they are done. Send good melted butter to
table with them. They should be boiled always with the stalk-ends
uppermost.
Very young, 1 to hour ; full-grown, 11 to 2 hours.
Obs.-French cooks lift the tops from the artichokes before they
are served, and replace them after having taken out the chokes: this
is an excellent plan, but it must be expeditiously done to prevent the
vegetable from cooling,
FOR ARTICHOKES EN SALADE
(See Chapter VI.)


CHAP. xu.]
327
VEGETABLES.
VEGETABLE MARROW.
It is customary to gather this when not larger than a turkey's egg,
but we should say that the vegetable is not then in its perfection.
The flesh is whiter and of better flavour when the gourd is about six
inches long; at least we have found it so with the kinds which have
fallen under our observation. It may either be boiled in the skin,
then pared, halved, and served upon a toast; or quartered, freed from
the seed, and left until cold, then dipped into egg and fine crumbs of
bread, and fried ; or it may be cut into dice, and re-heated in a little
good white sauce; or stewed tender in butter, and served in well-
thickened veal gravy, flavoured with a little lemon-juice. It may
likewise be mashed by the receipt which we have given for turnips,
and in that form will be found excellent. The French make a fan-
ciful dish of the marrows thus : they boil them tender in water, and
halve them lengthwise as is usual, they then slice a small bit off each
to make them stand evenly in the dish, and after having hollowed the
insides, so as to leave a mere shell, about half an inch thick, they fill
them with a thick rich mince of white meat, and pour white sauce
round them; or they heap fried bread-crumbs over the tops, place
the dish in the oven for a few minutes, and serve them without sauce.
Size of turkey's egg, 10 to 15 minutes; moderate-sized, 20 to 30;
large, i to 1 hour.
ROAST TOMATAS.
(To serve with roast leg, loin, or shoulder of mutton.)
Select them nearly of the same size, take off the stalks, and roast
them gently in a Dutch oven, or if more convenient, place them at
the edge of the dripping-pan, taking care that no fat from the joint
shall fall upon them, and keeping them turned that they may be
equally done. From ten to fourteen minutes will roast them.
STEWED TOMATAS,
Arrange them in a single layer, and pour to them as much gravy
as will reach to half their height; stew them very softly until the
under sides are done, then turn, and finish stewing them. Thicken
the gravy with a little arrow-root and cream, or with flour and butter,
and serve it round them.
FORCED TOMATAS.
(English Receipt.)
Cu: the stems quite close, slice off the tops of eight fine tomatas,
and scoop out the insides ; press the pulp through a sieve, and mix


328
[CHAP. XVI.
MODERN COOKERY.
with it one ounce of fine crumbs of bread, one of butter broken very
small, some pepper or cayenne, and salt. Fill the tomatas with the
mixture, and bake them for ten minutes in a moderate oven ; serre
them with brown gravy in the dish. A few small mushrooms stewed
tender in a little butter, then minced and added to the tomata pulp,
will very much improve this receipt.
Bake 10 minutes.
TORCED TOMATAS.
(French Receipt.)
Let the tomatas be well shaped and of equal size ; divide them
nearly in the middle leaving the blossom-side the largest, as this only
is to be used ; empty them carefully of their seeds and juice, and fill
them with the following ingredients, which must previously be stewed
tender in butter but without being allowed to brown : minced mush-
rooms and shalots, with a moderate proportion of parsley, some lean
of ham chopped small, a seasoning of cayenne, and a little fine salt, if
needed; let them cool, then mix with them about a third as much of
fine crumbs of bread, and two yolks of eggs; fill the tomatas, cover
them with fine crumbs, moisten them with clarified butter, and bake
them in a brisk oven until they are well coloured. Serve them as a
garnish to stewed rump or sirloin of beef, or to a boned and forced
leg of mutton.
Minced lean of ham, 2 oz. ; mushrooms, 2 oz. ; bread-crumbs, 2
oz. ; shalots, 4 to 8; parsley, full teaspoonful ; cayenne, quarter salt-
spoonful ; little salt, if needed; butter, 2 oz. ; yolks of eggs, 2 to 3:
baked 10 to 20 minutes.
Obs.—The French pound the whole of these ingredients with a bit
of garlic, before they fill the tomatas with them, but this is not abso-
lutely necessary, and the garlic, if added at all, should be parboiled
first, as its strong flavour, combined with that of the eschalots, would
scarcely suit the general taste. When the lean of a dressed ham is at
hand, only the herbs and vegetables will need to be stewed in the
butter; this should be mixed with them into the forcemeat, which an
intelligent cook will vary in many ways.
PUREE OF TOMATAS.
Divide a dozen fine ripe tomatas, squeeze out the seeds, and take off
the stalks ; put them with one small mild onion (or more, if liked),
and about half a pint of very good gravy, into a well-tinned stewpan
or saucepan, and simmer them for nearly or quite an hour; a couple
of bay-leaves, some cayenne, and as much salt as the dish may require,
should be added when they begin to boil. Press them through a
sieve, heat them again, and stir to them a quarter of a pint of good
cream, previously mixed and boiled for five minutes with a teaspoonful


CRAP. XVII.]
329
VEGETABLES.
of flour. This purée is to be served with calf's head, veal cutlets,
boiled knuckle of veal, calf's brains, or beef palates. For pork, beef,
geese, and other brown meats, the tomatas should be reduced to a
proper consistence in rich and highly-flavoured brown gravy, 01
Spanish sauce.
TO BOIL GREEN INDIAN CORN.
When still quite green and tender, the ears of maize or Indian corn
are very good boiled and served as a vegetable; and as they will not
ripen well in this country unless the summer be unusually warm and
favourable, it is an advantageous mode of turning them to account.
Strip away the sheath which encloses them, and take off the long
silken fibres from the tops; put the corn into boiling water salted as
for asparagus, and boil it for about half an hour. Drain it well, dish
it on a toast, and send it to table with melted butter. The Americans,
who have it served commonly at their tables, use it when more fully
grown than we have recommended, and boil it without removing the
inner leaves of the sheath; but it is sweeter and more delicate before
it has reached so advanced a state. The grains may be freed from the
corn-stalks with a knife, and tossed up with a slice of fresh butter
and some pepper and salt, or served simply like green peas. Other
modes of dressing the young maize will readily suggest themselves to
an intelligent cook, and our space will not permit us to enumerate
them
25 to 30 minutes.
MUSIROOMS AU BEURRE.
(Delicious.)
Cut the stems from some fine meadow mushroom-buttons, and clean
them with a bit of new flannel, and some fine salt; then either wipe
them dry with a soft cloth, or rinse them in fresh water, drain them
quickly, spread them in a clean cloth, fold it over them, and leave
them for ten minutes, or more, to dry For every pint of them thus
prepared, put an ounce and a half of fresh butter into a thick iron
saucepan, shake it over the fire until it just begins to brown, throw in
the mushrooms, continue to shake the saucepan over a clear fire that
they may not stick to it nor burn, and when they have simmered
three or four minutes, strew over them a little salt, some cayenne,
and pounded mace; stew them until they are perfectly tender, heap
them in a dish, and serve them with their own sauce only, for break-
fast, supper, or luncheon. Nothing can be finer than the flavour of
the mushrooms thus prepared ; and the addition of any liquid is far
from an improvement to it. They are very good when drained from
the butter, and served cold, and in a cool larder may be kept for
several days. The butter in which they are stewed is admirable for
flavouring gravies, sauces, or potted meats. Small flaps, freed from


330
[CHAP. XVI
MODERN COOKERY.
the fur and skin, may be stewed in the same way; and either these,
or the buttons, served under roast poultry or partridges, will give a
dish of very superior relish.
Meadow mushrooms, 3 pints, fresh butter 4! oz. : 3 to 5 minutes.
Salt, 1 small teaspoonful; mace, half as much ; cayenne, third of
baltspoonful : 10 to 15 minutes. More spices to be added if required
-much depending on their quality; but they should not overpower
the flavour of the mushrooms.
Obs.- Persons inhabiting parts of the country where mushrooms
are abundant, may send them easily, when thus prepared (or when
potted by the following receipt), to their friends in cities, or in less
productive counties. If poured into jars, with sufficient butter to
cover them, they will travel any distance, and can be re-warmed for
use.
POTTED MUSHROOMS.
Prepare either small flaps or buttons with great nicety, without
wetting them, and wipe the former very dry, after the application of
the salt and flannel. Stew them quite tender, with the same propor-
tion of butter as the mushrooms au beurre, but increase a little the
quantity of spice; when they are done turn them into a large dish,
spread them over one end of it, and raise it two or three inches that
they may be well drained from the butter. As soon as they are
quite cold, press them very closely into small potting-pans ; pour
lukewarm clarified butter thickly over them, and store them in a
cool dry place. If intended for present use, merely turn them down
upon a clean shelf; but for longer keeping cover the tops first with
very dry paper, and then with melted mutton-suet. We have our-
selves had the mushrooms, after being simply spread upon a dish
while hot, remain perfectly good in that state for seven or eight
weeks : they were prepared late in the season, and the weather was
consequently cool during the interval.
MUSHROOM-TOAST, OR CROUTE AUX CHAMPIGNONS.
(Excellent.)
Cut the stems closely from a quart or more, of small just-opened
mushrooms; peel them, and take out the gills. Dissolve from
two to three ounces of fresh butter in a well-tinned saucepan or
stewpan, put in the mushrooms, strew over them a quarter of a
teaspoonful of pounded mace mixed with a little cayenne, and let
them stew over a gentle fire from ten to fifteen minutes ; toss or
stir them often during the time; then add a small dessertspoonful
of flour, and shake the pan round until it is lightly browned.
Next pour in, by slow degrees, half a pint of gravy or of good beef-
broth; and when the mushrooms have stewed softly in this for a


CHAP. Iyn.]
331
VEGETABLES.
couple of minutes, throw in a little salt, and a squeeze of lemon-juice,
and pour them on to a crust, cut about an inch and a quarter thick,
from the under part of a moderate-sized loaf, and fried in good
butter a light brown, after having been first slightly hollowed in the
inside. New milk, or thin cream, may be used with very good effect
instead of the gravy; but a few strips of lemon-rind, and a small
portion of nutmeg and mushroom-catsup should then be added to the
The bread may be buttered and grilled over a gentle fire
instead of being fried, and is better so.
Small mushrooms, 4 to 5 half pints; butter, 3 to 4 oz.; mace,
mixed with a little cayenne, 1 teaspoonful : stewed softly 10 to 15
minutes. Flour, 1 small dessertspoonful : 3 to 5 minutes. Gravy
or broth, pint: 2 minutes. Little salt and lemon-juice.
sauce.
TRUFFLES AND THEIR USES.
*
The truffle, or underground mushroom, as it has sometimes been
called, is held in almost extravagant estimation by epicures,* and
enters largely into what may be termed first-class cookery, both in
England and abroad ; though it is much less generally known and
used here than in France, Germany, and other parts of the Continent,
where it is far more abundant, and of very superior quality.
As it is in constant demand for luxuriously-served tables, and has
hitherto, we believe, baffled all attempts to increase it by cultivation,
it bears usually a high price in the English market, † and is seldom
to be had cheap in any; but although too costly for common con-
sumption, where the expenditure is regulated by rational economy,
it may at times be made to supply, at a reasonable expense, some
excellent store-preparations for the breakfast and luncheon-table; as
a small portion will impart its peculiar flavour to them.
The blackest truffles are considered the best. All are in their
perfection during the latter part of November, December, and
January ; though they may be procured usually from October to
March; yet as they are peculiarly subject to decay—or, properly
speaking, become really putrid–from exposure to the air, it is an
advantage to have them as early in their season as may be.
In sumptuous households the very finest foreign truffles are often
served as a vegetable in the second course.
* It has been named by a celebrated gastronomer of past days, “Le diamant
de la cuisine."
+ Varying from eight to sixteen shillings the pound at the best foreign ware-
houses. The truffles which are pared, bottled and steamed like fruit, are more
expensive still; but they can be kept after the season of the fresh ones is entirely
past. English truffles—which are found Hampshire (in the New Forest)
and in some few other of our counties, are very good, though seldom or ever
equal in quality to those of France, Germany, and of different parts of Italy,
The most esteemed of the French ones are from Perigord.


332
[CHAP. XVI.
MODERN COOKERY.
TO PREPARE TRUFFLES FOR USE,
First soak them for an hour or two in fresh water, to loosen the
earth which adheres to them; then rinse them well from it, and with
a hard brush scrub them until not a particle of the mould in which
they have been embedded can be seen upon them. This part of the
operation should be especially attended to, because the parings are as
useful as the truffles themselves. It is often needful leave them
longer in the water after it has been changed; and even to soak them
sometimes in lukewarm water also: when they are perfectly cleaned,
wipe them gently with a soft cloth, or fold them in to dry, should
they be wanted for any preparation to which moisture would be
injurious.
TRUFFLES A LA SERVIETTE.
Select the finest truffles for this dish, be particular in smelling
them, and reject any that have a musty smell. Wash and brush
them well with cold water only, change it several times, and when
they are perfectly clean line a stewpan with slices of bacon; put in
the truffles with a bunch of parsley, green onions, and thyme, two or
three bay-leaves, half a dozen cloves, and a little sweet basil; pour in
sufficient rich veal gravy to cover them, with the addition of from
half a pint to half a bottle of champagne; boil them very softly for
an hour, then draw them aside and let them cool in the gravy
Heat them afresh in it when they are wanted for table; lift them out
and drain them in a very clean cloth, and dish them neatly in a fine
and beautifully white napkin, which will contrast as strongly as pos.
sible with the dark hue of the truffles.
TRUFFLES A L'ITALIENNE.
Wash perfectly, clean, wipe, and pare some truffles extremely
thin ; slice them about the size of a penny; put them into a sauté-
pan (or small frying-pan), with a slice of fresh butter, some minced
parsley and eschalot, salt and pepper ; put them on the fire and stir
them, that they may fry equally; when they are done, which will be
in about ten minutes, drain off part of the butter, and throw in a bit
of fresh butter, a small ladleful of Spanish sauce (see page 101), th:
juice of one lemon, and a little cayenne pepper. This is a dish of
high relish.
TO BOIL SPROUTS, CABBAGES, SAVOYS, LETTUCES, OR ENDIVE.
All green vegetables should be thrown into abundance of fast
boiling water ready salted and skimmed, with the addition of the
small quantity of carbonate of soda which we have recommended, in a


CHAP. XVII.]
333
VEGETABLES.
previous page of this chapter; the pan shoula be left uncovered, and
every precaution taken to prevent the smoke from reaching its con-
tents. Endive, sprouts, and spring greens, will only require copious
washing before they are boiled; but savoys, large lettuces, and close-
leaved cabbages should be thrown into salt and water for half an hour
or more before they are dressed, with the tops downwards to draw out
the insects. The stems of these last should be cut off, the decayed
leaves stripped away, and the vegetable halved or quartered, or split
deeply across the stalk-end, and divided entirely before it is dished.
Very young greens, 15 to 20 minutes ; lettuces, 20 to 30 minutes,
large savoys, or cabbages, 1 to 11 hour, or more.
Obs. When the stalk of any kind of cabbage is tender it is ready
to serve. Turnip-greens should be well washed in several waters, and
boiled in a very large quantity to deprive them of their bitterness.
STEWED CABBAGE.
Cut out the stalk entirely, and slice a fine firm cabbage or two in
very thin strips; throw them after they have been well washed and
drained, into a large pan of boiling water ready salted and skimmed,
and when they are tender, which will be in from ten to fifteen
minutes, pour them into a sieve or strainer, press the water thoroughly
from them, and chop them slightly. Put into a very clean saucepan
about a couple of ounces of butter, and when it is dissolved add the
cabbage with sufficient pepper and salt to season it, and stir it over a
clear fire until it appears tolerably dry; then shake lightly in a
tablespoonful of flour, turn the whole well, and add by slow degrees a
cup of thick cream : veal gravy or good white sauce may be sub-
stituted for this, when preferred to it.
TO BOIL TURNIPS.
Pare entirely from them the fibrous rind, and either split the
turnips once or leave them whole; throw them into boiling water
slightly salted, and keep them closely covered from smoke and dust
until they are tender. When small and young they will be done in
from fifteen to twenty minutes ; at their full growth they will require
from three quarters to a full hour, or more, of gentle boiling. After
they become old and woolly they are not worth dressing in any way.
When boiled in their skins and pared afterwards, they are said to be
of better flavour and much less watery than when cooked in the usual
way.
Young turnips, 15 to 20 minutes : full grown, & to 1 hour, or
more.
TO MASH TURNIPS.
Split them once or even twice should they be large after they are
pared; boil them very tender, and press the water thoroughly from


334
[CHAP.x.
MODERN COOKERY.
them with a couple of trenchers, or with the back of a large plate
and one trencher. To ensure their being free from lumps, it is better
to pass them through a cullender or coarse hair-sieve, with a wooden
spoon; though, when quite young, they may be worked sufficiently
smooth without this. Put them into a clean saucepan, and stir them
constantly for some minutes over a gentle fire, that they may be very
dry; then add some salt, a bit of fresh butter, and a little cream, or
in lieu of this new milk (we would also recommend a seasoning of
white pepper or cayenne, when appearance and fashion are not par-
ticularly regarded), and continue to simmer and to stir them for five
or six minutes longer, or until they have quite absorbed all the liquid
which has been poured to them. Serve them always as hot as
possible. This is an excellent receipt; but the addition of a little
good white sauce would render it still better.
Turnips, weighed after they are pared, 3 lbs. : dried 5 to 8 minutes.
Salt, 1 teaspoonful; butter, i oz. to 1} oz.; cream or milk, nearly 4
pint : 5 or 6 minutes.
TURNIPS IN WHITE SAUCE.
(ENTREMETS.)
When no scoop for the purpose is at hand, cut some small finely-
grained turnips into quarters, and pare them into balls, or into the
shape of plums or pears of equal size; arrange them evenly in a
broad stewpan or saucepan, and cover them nearly with good veal
broth, throw in a little salt, and a morsel of sugar, and boil them
rather quickly until they are quite tender, but preserve them un-
broken; lift them out, draining them well from the broth ; dish, and
pour over them some thick white sauce. As an economy, a cup of
cream, and a teaspoonful of arrowroot, may be added to the broth
in which the turnips have stewed, to make the sauce; and when it
boils, a small slice of butter may be stirred and well worked into it,
should it not be sufficiently rich without.
TURNIPS STEWED IN BUTTER. (GOOD.)
This is an excellent way of dressing the vegetable when it is mild
and finely grained ; but its flavour otherwise is too strong to be
agreeable. After they have been washed, wiped quite dry, and pared,
slice the turnips nearly half an inch thick, and divide them into dice,
Just dissolve an ounce of butter for each half-pound of the turnips.
put them in as flat as they can be, and stew them very gently indeed,
from three quarters of an hour to a full hour. Add a seasoning of
salt and white pepper when they are half done. When thus pre-
pared, they may be dished in the centre of fried or nicely broiled
mutton cutlets, or served by themselves.
For a small dish: turnips, 1} lb. ; butter, 3 oz. ; seasoning of white
pepper; salt, 1 teaspoonful, or more : 4 to 1 hour. Large dish :
turnips, 2 lbs.; butter 4 oz.


CHAP. XVI.
335
VEGETABLES.
TURNIPS IN GRAVY.
To a pound of turnips sliced and cut into dice, pour a quarter of a
pint of boiling veal gravy, add a small lump of sugar, some salt and
cayenne, or white pepper, and boil them quickly from fifty to sixty
minutes. Serve them very hot.
TO BOIL CARROTS.
Wash the mould from them, and scrape the skin off lightly with
the edge of a sharp knife, or, should this be objected to, pare them as
thin and as equally as possible; in either case free them from all
blemishes, and should they be very large, divide them, and cut the
thick parts into quarters; rinse them well, and throw them into plenty
of boliing water with some salt in it. The skin of very young carrots
may be rubbed off like that of new potatoes, and from twenty to
thirty minutes will then be sufficient to boil them; but at their full
growth they will require from an hour and a half to two hours. It
was formerly the custom to tie them in a cloth, and to wipe the skin
from them with it after they were dressed ; and old-fashioned cooks
still use one to remove it; but all vegetables should, we think, be
dished and served with the least possible delay after they are ready for
table. Melted butter should accompany boiled carrots.
Very young carrots, 20 to 30 minutes. Full-grown ones, 14 to 2
hours.
CARROTS. (ENTRÉE.)
(The Windsor Receipt.)
Select some good carrots of equal size, and cut the upper parts into
even lengths of about two inches and a half, then trim one end of
each into a point, so as to give the carrot the form of a sugar-loaf.*
When all are ready, throw them into plenty of ready-salted boiling
water, and boil them three quarters of an hour. Lift them out, and
drain them well, then arrange them upright, and all on a level in a
broad stewpan or saucepan, and pour in good hot beef-broth or veal-
gravy to half their height; add as much salt as may be needed, and a
smali teaspoonful of sugar, and boil them briskly for half an hour, or
longer, should they require it. Place them again upright in dishing
them, and keep them hot while a little good brown gravy is thick-
ened to pour over them, and mixed with a large teaspoonful of pars-
ley and a little lemon-juice; or sauce them with common béchamel
(see Chapter V.), or white sauce, with or without the addition of
parsley:
Thick part of carrots cut in cones : boiled hour. With gravy or
• See plate, page 338.


336
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. XVII
broth, little salt and sugar: 1 hour, or more. Sauce : thickened
gravy, béchamel made without meat, or common white sauce.
Obs. The carrots dressed thus are exceedingly good without any
sauce beyond the small quantity of liquid which will remain in the
stewpan with them, or with a few spoonsful more of gravy added to
this, and thickened with butter and a little flour.
SWEET CARROTS. (ENTREMETS.)
Boil quite tender some fine highly-flavoured carrots, press the
water from them, and rub them through the back of a fine hair-
sieve; put them into a clean saucepan or stewpan, and dry them
thoroughly over a gentle fire; then add a slice of fresh butter, and
when this is dissolved and well mixed with them, strew in a dessert-
spoonful or more of powdered sugar, and a little salt; next, stir in by
degrees some good cream, and when this is quite absorbed, and the
carrots again appear dry, dish and serve them quickly with small
sippets a la Reine (see page 5), placed round them.
Carrots, 3 lbs., boiled quite tender: stirred over a gentle fire 5 to
10 minutes. Butter, 2 oz. ; salt, } teaspoonful ; pounded sugar,
1 dessertspoonful; cream, d pint, stewed gently together until quite
dry.
Obs. For excellent mashed carrots omit the sugar, add a good
seasoning of salt and white pepper, and half a pint of rich brown
gravy; or for a plain dinner rather less than this of milk.
MASHED (OR BUTTERED) Carrots.
(A Dutch Receipt.)
Prepare some finely flavoured carrots as above, and dry them over
a gentle fire like mashed turnips; then for a dish of moderate size
mix well with them from two to three ounces of good butter, cut
into small bits, keeping them well stirred. Add a seasoning of salt
and cayenne, and serve them very hot, garnished or not at pleasure
with small sippets (croutons) of fried bread.
CARROTS AU BEURRE, OR BUTTERED CARROTS.
(French)
Either boil sufficient carrots for a dish quite tender, and then
cut them into slices a quarter of an inch thick, or first slice, and then
boil them : the latter method is the most expeditious, but the other
best preserves the flavour of the vegetable. Drain them well, and
while this is being done just dissolve from two to three ounces of
butter in a saucepan, and strew in some minced parsley, some salt,
and white pepper or cayenne; then add the carrots, and toss them


CHAP. XVI.]
337
VEGETABLES.
very gently until they are equally covered with the sauce, which
should not be allowed to boil : the parsley may be omitted at
pleasure. Cold carrots may be rewarmed in this
way.
CARROTS IN THEIR OWN JUICE.
(A simple but excellent Receipt.)
By the following mode of dressing carrots, whether young or old,
their full flavour and all the nutriment they contain are entirely
preserved; and they are at the same time rendered so palatable by it
that they furnish at once an admirable dish to eat without meat, as
well as with it. Wash the roots very clean, and scrape or lightly
pare them, cutting out any discoloured parts. Have ready boiling and
salted, as much water as will cover them ; slice them rather thick,
throw them into it, and should there be more than sufficient to just
float them (and barely that), pour it away. Boil them gently until
they are tolerably tender, and then very quickly, to evaporate the
water, of which only a spoonful or so should be left in the saucepan,
Dust a seasoning of pepper on them, throw in a morsel of butter rolled
in flour, and turn and toss them gently until their juice is thickened by
them and adheres to the roots. Send them immediately to table. They
are excellent without any addition but the pepper; though they may
be in many ways improved. A dessert-spoonful of minced parsley
may be strewed over them when the butter is added, and a little thick
cream mixed with a small proportion of flour to prevent its curdling,
may be strewed amongst them, or a spoonful or two of good gravy.
TO BOIL PARSNEPS.
These are dressed in precisely the same manner as carrots, but
require inuch less boiling. According to their quality and the time
of year, they will take from twenty minutes to nearly an hour.
Every speck or blemish should be cut from them after they are
scraped, and the water in which they are boiled should be well
skimmed. They are a favourite accompaniment to salt fish and
boiled pork, and may be served either mashed or plain.
20 to 25 minutes.
FRIED PARSNEPS.
Boil them until they are about half done, lift them out, and let
them cool; slice them rather thickly, sprinkle them with fine salt
and white pepper, and fry them a pale brown in good butter. Serve
them with roast meat, or dish them under it.
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES.
Wash the artichokes, pare them quickly, and throw them as they
are done into a saucepan of cold water, or of equal parts of milk and
Z


338
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. XVII
water; and when they are about half boiled add a little salt to them.
Take them up the instant they are perfectly tender : this will be in
from fifteen to twenty-five minutes, so much do they vary in size and
as to the time necessary to dress them. If allowed to remain in the
water after they are done, they become black and flavourless.
Melted butter should always be sent to table with them.
15 to 25 minutes.
TO FRY JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES (ENTREMETS.)
Boil them from eight to twelve minutes ; lift them out, drain them
on a sieve, and let them cool; dip them into beaten eggs, and cover
them with fine bread-crumbs. Fry them a light brown, drain, pile
them in a hot dish, and serve them quickly.
DS
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES, A LA REINE.
Wash and wipe the artichokes, cut off one end of each quite flat,
and trim the other into a
point; boil them in milk and
water, lift them out the instant
they are done, place them up-
right in the dish in which
they are to be served, and
sauce them with a good bécha-
Artichokes a la Reine.
mel, or with nearly half a pint of cream thickened with a dessert-
spoonful of flour, mixed with an ounce and a half of butter, and
seasoned with a little mace and some salt. When cream cannot be
procured use new milk, and increase the proportion of flour and
butter.
MASHED JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES.
Boil them tender, press the water well from them, and then
proceed exactly as for mashed turnips, taking care to dry the ar-
tichokes well, both before and after the milk or cream is added to
them; they will be excellent if good white sauce be substituted for
either of these.
HARICOTS BLANCS.
The haricot blanc is the seed of a particular kind of French bean,
of which we find some difficulty in ascertaining the English name,
for though we have tried several which resembled it in appearance,
we have found their flavour, after they were dressed, very different,
and far from agreeable. The large white Dutch runner, is, we
believe, the proper variety for cooking; at least we have obtained a
small quantity under that name, which approached much more
nearly than any others we had tried to those which we had eaten
proid The haricots, when fresh may be thrown into plenty of


CHAP. XVII]
339
VEGETABLES.
boiling water, with some salt and a small bit of butter; if dry, they
must be previously soaked for an hour or two, put into cold water,
brought to boil gently, and simmered until they are tender, for if
boiled fast the skins will burst before the beans are done. Drain
them thoroughly from the water when they are ready, and lay them
into a clean saucepan over two or three ounces of fresh butter, a
small dessertspoonful of chopped parsley, and sufficient salt and
pepper to scason the whole; then gently shake or toss the beans
until they are quite hot and equally covered with the sauce; add the
strained juice of half a lemon, and serve them quickly. The vege-
table thus dressed, is excellent; and it affords a convenient resource
in the season when the supply of other kinds is scantiest. In some
countries the dried beans are placed in water, over-night, upon a
stove, and by a very gentle degree of warmth are sufficiently soft-
ened by the following day to be served as follows :—they are drained
from the water, spread on a clean cloth and wiped quite dry, then
lightly floured and fried in oil or butter, with a seasoning of pepper
and salt, lifted into a hot dish, and served under roast beef, or
mutton.
TO BOIL BEET ROOT.
Wash the roots delicately clean, but neither scrape nor cut them,
for should even the small fibres be taken off before they are cooked,
their beautiful colour would be much injured. Throw them into
boiling water, and, according to their size, which varies greatly, as
they are sometimes of enormous growth, boil them from one hour
and a half to two and a half, or longer if requisite. Pare and serve
them whole, or cut into thick slices and neatly dished in a close
circle : send melted butter to table with them. Cold red beet root is
often intermingled with other vegetables for winter salads; and it
makes a pickle of remarkably brilliant hue. A common mode of
serving it at the present day is in the last course of a dinner with the
cheese : it is merely pared and sliced after having been baked or
boiled tender.
11 to 24 hours, or longer.
TO BAKE BEET ROOT.
Beet root if slowly and carefully baked until it is tender quite
through, is very rich and sweet in flavour, although less bright in
colour than when it is boiled : it is also, we believe, remarkably
nutritious and wholesome. Wash and wipe it very dry, but neither
cut nor break any part of it ; then lay it into a coarse earthen dish,
and bake it in a gentle oven for four or five hours: it will sometimes
require even a longer time than this. Pare it quickly if it be served
hot; but leave it to cool first, when it is to be sent to table cold.
In slow oven from 4 to 6 hours.


340
[CHAP. IV.
MODERN COOKERY.
STEWED BEET ROOT.
Bake or boil it tolerably tender, and let it remain until it is cold,
then pare and cut it into slices; heat and stew it for a short time in
some good pale veal gravy (or in strong veal broth for ordinary
occasions), thicken this with a teaspoonful of arrowroot, and half a
cupful or more of good cream, and stir in, as it is taken from the
fire, from a tea to a tablespoonful of chili vinegar. The beet root
may be served likewise in thick white sauce, to which, just before it
is dished, the mild eschalots of page 128 may be added.
TO STEW RED CABBAGE.
(Flemish Receipt.)
Strip the outer leaves from a fine and fresh red cabbage; wash it
well, and cut it into the thinnest possible slices, beginning at the
top; put it into a thick saucepan in which two or three ounces of
good butter have been just dissolved ; add some pepper and salt, and
stew it very slowly indeed for three or four hours in its own juice,
keeping it often stirred, and well pressed down. When it is per-
fectly tender add a tablespoonful of vinegar ; mix the whole up
thoroughly, heap the cabbage in a hot dish, and serve broiled
sausages round it; or omit these last, and substitute lemon-juice,
cayenne pepper, and a half-cupful of good gravy.
The stalk of the cabbage should be split in quarters and taken
entirely out in the first instance.
3 to 4 hours.
BRUSSELS SPROUTS.
These delicate little sprouts, or miniature cabbages, which at their
fullest growth scarcely exceed a large walnut in size, should be quite
freshly gathered. Free them from all discoloured leaves, cut the
stems even, and wash the sprouts thoroughly. Throw them into
a pan of water properly salted, and boil them quickly from eight to
ten minutes; drain them well, and serve them upon a rather thick
round of toasted bread buttered on both sides. Send good melted
butter to table with them. This is the Belgian mode of dressing this
excellent vegetable, which is served in France with the sauce poured
over it, or it is tossed in a stewpan with a slice of butter and some
pepper and salt: a spoonful or two of veal gravy (and sometimes a
little lemon-juice) is added when these are perfectly mixed.
8 to 10 minutes


CHAP. XVII.
341
VEGETABLES.
SALSIFY.
We are surprised that a vegetable so excellent as this should be so
little cared for in England. Delicately fried in batter--which is a
common mode of serving it abroad—it forms a delicious second
course dish : it is also good when plain-boiled, drained, and served in
gravy, or even with melted butter. Wash the roots, scrape gently
off the dark outside skin, and throw them into cold water as they are
done, to prevent their turning black; cut them into lengths of three
or four inches, and when all are ready put them into plenty of
boiling water with a little salt, a small bit of butter, and a couple of
spoonsful of white vinegar or the juice of a lemon : they will be
done in from three quarters of an hour to an hour. Try them with
a fork, and when perfectly tender, drain, and serve them with white
sauce, rich brown gravy, or melted butter.
i to 1 hour.
FRIED SALSIFY. (ENTREMETS.)
Boil the salsify tender, as directed above, drain, and then press it
lightly in a soft cloth. Make some French batter (see Chapter V.),
throw the bits of salsify into it, take them out separately, and fry
them a light brown, drain them well from the fat, sprinkle a little
fine salt over them after they are dished, and serve them quickly.
At English tables, salsify occasionally makes its appearance fried with
egg and bread-crumbs instead of batter. Scorgonera is dressed in
precisely the same manner as the salsify.
BOILED CELERY.
This vegetable is extremely good dressed like sea-kale, and served
on a toast with rich melted butter. Let it be freshly dug, wash it
with great nicety, trim the ends, take off the coarse outer-leaves, cut
the roots of equal length, tie them in bunches, and boil them in
plenty of water, with the usual proportion of salt, from twenty to
thirty minutes.
20 to 30 minutes.
STEWED CELERY.
Cut five or six fine roots of celery to the length of the inside of
the dish in which they are to be served; free them from all the
coarser leaves, and from the green tops, trim the root ends neatly,
and wash the vegetable in several waters until it is as clean as pos-
sible; then, either boil it tender with a little salt, and a bit of fresh
butter the size of a walnut, in just sufficient water to cover it quite


342
[CHAP. XVII.
MODERN COOKERY.
drain it well, arrange it on a very hot dish, and pour a thick
béchamel, or white sauce over it; or stew it in broth or common
stock, and serve it with very rich, thickened, Espagnole or brown
gravy. It has a higher flavour when partially stewed in the sauce,
after being drained thoroughly from the broth. Unless very large
and old, it will be done in from twenty-five to thirty minutes, but if
not quite tender, longer time must be allowed for it. A cheap and
expeditious method of preparing this dish is to slice the celery, to
simmer it until soft in as much good broth as will only just cover it,
and to add a thickening of flour and butter, or arrow-root, with some
salt, pepper, and a small cupful of cream.
25 to 30 minutes, or more.
STEWED ONIONS.
Strip the outer skin from four or five fine Portugal onions, and
trim the ends, but without cutting into the vegetable; arrange
them in a saucepan of sufficient size to contain them all in one layer,
just cover them with good beef or veal gravy, and stew them very
gently indeed for a couple of hours: they should be tender quite
through, but should not be allowed to fall to pieces. When large,
but not mild onions are used, they should be first boiled for half an
hour in plenty of water, then drained from it, and put into boiling
gravy: strong, well-flavoured broth of veal or beef, is sometimes
substituted for this, and with the addition of a little catsup, spice,
and thickening, answers very well. The savour of this dish is
heightened by flouring lightly and frying the onions of a pale brown
before they are stewed.
Portugal onions, 4 or 5 (if fried, 15 to 20 minutes); broth or
gravy, 1 to 1) pint : nearly or quite 2 hours.
Obs.-When the quantity of gravy is considered too much, the
onions may be only half covered, and turned when the under side is
tender, but longer time must then be allowed for stewing them
STEWED CHESTNUTS.
..
Strip the outer rind from forty or fifty fine sound Spanish chest-
nuts, throw them into a large saucepan of hot water, and bring it to
the point of boiling ; when the second skin parts from them easily,
lift them out, and throw them into plenty of cold water ; peel, and
wipe them dry; then put them into a stewpan or bright saucepan,
with as much highly-flavoured cold beef or veal gravy as will nearly
cover them, and stew them very gently from three-quarters of an
hour to a full hour: they should be quite tender, but unbroken.
Add salt, cayenne, and thickening if required, and serve the chest-
w in their gravy. We have found it an improvement to have
ured and lightly browned in a little good butter before they


CHAP. XVD.]
343
VEGETABLES.
the gravy:
are stewed, and also to add some thin strips of fresh lemon-rind to
Chestnuts, 40 or 50 ; gravy, i pint, or more : 1 to 1 hour.
Obs.-A couple of bay-leaves and a slice of lean ham will give ar
improved flavour to the sauce should it not be sufficiently rich : the
ham should be laid under the chestnuts, but not served with them.
When these are to be browned, or even otherwise, they may be freed
readily from the second skin by shaking them with a small bit of
butter in a frying-pan over a gentle fire.


344
[CHAP. VI.
MODERN COOKERY.
CHAPTER XVIII.
Pastry.

lin:bale or Paté Chaud.
INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.
The greatest possible cleanliness and nicety should be observed in
making pastry:. The slab or board, paste-rollers, tins, cutters,
moulds, everything, in fact, used for it,
and especially the hands, should be
equally free from the slightest soil or
particle of dust. The more expedi-
tiously the finer kinds of paste are made
and despatched to the oven, and the
less they are touched the better. Much
of their excellence depends upon the
baking also. They should have a suf Raised Pie Mould.
ficient degree of heat to raise them
quickly, but not so fierce a one as to colour them too much before
they are done, and still less to burn them. The oven door should remain
closed after they are put in, and not removed until the paste is set
Large raised pies require a steadily sustained, or, what is technically
2 soaking heat, and to ensure this the oven should be made very


CHAP. XVII.
345
PASTRY.
hot, then cleared, and closely shut from half to a whole hour before it
is used, to concentrate the heat. It is an advantage in this case to have
a large log or two of cord-wood burned in it, in addition to the usual
fuel.
In mixing paste, the water should be added gradually, and the
whole gently drawn together with the fingers, until sufficient has
been added, when it should be lightly kneaded until it is as smooth
as possible. When carelessly made, the surface is often left covered
with small dry crumbs or lumps; or the water is pourei in heed-
lessly in so large a proportion that it becomes necessary to add more
flour to render it workable in any way; and this ought particularly
to be avoided when a certain weight of all the ingredients has been
taken.
TO GLAZE OR ICE PASTRY."
The fine yellow glaze appropriate to meat pies is given with beaten
yolk of egg, which should be laid on with a paste brush, or a small
bunch of feathers : if a lighter colour be wished for, whisk the whole
of the egg together, or mix a little milk with the yolk.
The best mode of icing fruit-tarts before they are sent to the oven
is, to moisten the paste with cold water, to sift sugar thickly upon it,
and to press it lightly on with the hand; but when a whiter icing is
preferred, the pastry must be drawn from the oven when nearly
baked, and brushed with white of egg, wisked to a froth ; then well
covered with the sifted sugar, and sprinkled with a few drops of
water before it is put in again : this glazing answers also very well,
though it takes a slight colour, if used before the pastry is baked.
FEUILLETAGE, OR FINE FRENCH PUFF PASTE.
This, when made by a good French cook, is the perfection of rich
light paste, and will rise in the oven from one to six inches in height:
but some practice is, without doubt, necessary to accomplish this. In
summer it is a great advantage to have ice at hand, and to harden
the butter over it before it is used; the paste also between the in-
tervals of rolling is improved by being laid on an oven-leaf 'over a
vessel containing it. Take an equal weight of good butter free from
the coarse salt which is found in some, and which is disadvantageous
for this paste, and of fine dry, sifted flour; to each pound of these
allow the yolks of a couple of eggs, and a small teaspoonful of salt.
Break a few small bits of the butter very lightly into the flour, put
the salt into the centre, and pour on it sufficient water to dissolve it
(we do not understand why the doing this should be better than
mixing it with the flour, as in other pastes, but such is the method
always pursued for it); add a little more water to the eggs, moisten
the four gradually, and make it into a very smooth paste, rather
• For other pastry icings see chapter of " cakes."


346
[CHAP. XVII
MODERN COOKERY.
lithe in summer, and never exceedingly stiff, though the opposite
fault, in the extreme, would render the crust unmanageable. Press,
in a soft thin cloth, all the moisture from the remainder of the butter,
and form it into a ball, but in doing this be careful not to soften it too
much. Should it be in an unfit state for pastry from the heat of the
weather, put it into a basin, and set the basin into a pan of water
mixed with plenty of salt and salt
petre, and let it remain in a cool
place for an hour if possible before it is used. When it is ready (and
the paste should never be commenced until it is so), roll the crust out
square,* and of sufficient size to enclose the butter, flatten this a little
upon it in the centre, and then fold the crust well over it, and roll it
out thin as lightly as possible, after having dredged the board and
paste roller with a little flour: this is called giving it one turn.
Then fold it in three, give it another turn, and set it aside where it
will be very cool, for a few minutes; give it two more turns in the
same way, rolling it each time very lightly but of equal thickness,
and to the full length that it will reach, taking always especial care
that the butter shall not break through the paste. Let it again be
set aside to become cold; and after it has been twice more rolled and
folded in three, give it a half turn, by folding it once only, and it
will be ready for use.
Equal weight of the finest flour and good butter; to each pound of
these, the yolks of two eggs, and a small saltspoonful of salt : 6!
turns to be given to the paste.
VERY GOOD LIGHT PASTE.
Mix with a pound of sifted flour six ounces of fresh, pure lard,
and make them into a smooth paste with cold water; press the but-
termilk from ten ounces of butter, and form it into a ball, by twisting
it in a clean cloth. Roll out the paste, put the ball of butter in the
middle, close it like an apple-dumpling, and roll it very lightly until
it is less than an inch thick ; fold the ends into the middle, dust a
little flour over the board and paste-roller, and roll the paste thin a
second time, then set it aside for three or four minutes in a very cool
place; give it two more turns, after it has again been left for a few
minutes, roll it out twice more, folding it each time in three. This
ought to render it fit for use. The sooner this paste is sent to the
oven after it is made, the lighter it will be: if allowed to remain
long before it is baked, it will be tough and heavy.
Flour, 1 lb. ; lard, 6 oz.; butter, 10 oz.; little salt.
ENGLISH PUFF-PASTE.
Break lightly into a couple of pounds of dried and sifted flour
eight ounces of butter ; add a pinch of salt, and sufficient cold water
* The learner will perhaps find it easier to fold the paste securely round it in
the form of a dumpling, until a little experience has been acquired.


CHAP. XVIII.]
347
PASTRY.
to make the paste; work it as quickly and as lightly as possible,
until it is smooth and pliable, then level it with the paste-roller until
it is three-quarters of an inch thick, and place regularly upon it six
ounces of butter in small bits; fold the paste like a blanket pudding,
roll it out again, lay on it six ounces more of butter, repeat the
rolling, dusting each time a little flour over the board and paste, add
again six ounces of butter, and roll the paste out thin three or four
times, folding the ends into the middle.
Flour, 2 lbs.; little salt; butter, 1 lb. 10 oz.
If very rich paste be required, equal portions of flour and butter
must be used ; and the latter may be divided into two, instead of
three parts, when it is to be rolled in.
CREAM CRUST.
(Author's Receipt. Very good.)
Stir a little fine salt into a pound of dry flour, and mix gradually
with it sufficient very thick, sweet cream to form a smooth paste; it
will be found sufficiently good for common family dinners, without
the addition of butter ; but to make an excellent crust, roll in four
ounces in the usual way, after having given the paste a couple of
turns. Handle it as lightly as possible in making it, and send it to
the oven as soon as it is ready : it may be used for fruit tarts, canne-
lons, puffs, and other varieties of small pastry, or for good meat pies.
Six ounces of butter to the pound of flour will give a very rich
crust.
Flour, 1 lb.; salt, 1 small saltspoonful (more for meat pies); rich
cream, i to 4 pint; butter, 4 oz.; for richest crust, 6 oz.
PATE BRISÉE, OR FRENCH CRUST FOR HOT OR COLD
MEAT PIES.
Sift two pounds and a quarter of fine dry flour, and break into it
one pound of butter, work them together with the fingers until they
resemble fine crumbs of bread, then add a small teaspoonful of salt,
and make them into a firm paste, with the yolks of four eggs, well
beaten, mixed with half a pint of cold water, and strained; or for a
somewhat richer crust of the same kind, take two pounds of flour,
one of butter, the yolks of four eggs, half an ounce of salt, and less
than the half pint of water, and work the whole well until the paste
is perfectly smooth.
Flour, 2 lbs.; butter, 1 lb.; salt, 1 small teaspoonful; yolks of
eggs, 4; water, i pint. Or: flour, 2 lbs.; butter, 1 lb.; yolks of
eggs, 4; water, less than $ pint.
FLEAD CRUST.
Flead is the provincial name for the leaf, or inside fat of a pig,
which makes excellent crust when fresh, much finer, indeed, than


318
[CHAP. XVIII.
MODERN COOKERY.
after it is melted into lard. Clear it quite from skin, and slice it very
thin into the flour, add sufficient salt to give flavour to the paste,
and make the whole up smooth and firm with cold water; lay it on
a clean dresser, and beat it forcibly with a rolling-pin until the flead
is blended perfectly with the flour. It may then be made into cakes
with a paste-cutter, or used for pies, round the edges of which a knife
should be passed, as the crust rises better when cut than if merely
rolled to the proper size. With the addition of a small quantity of
butter, which may either be broken into the flour before the flead is
mixed with it, or rolled into the paste after it is beaten, it will be
found equal to fine puff crust, with the advantage of being more easy
of digestion.
Quite common crust : four, 14 lb. ; flead, 8 oz. ; salt, 1 small tea-
spoonful. Good common crust : flour, 1 lb.; flead, 6 oz. ; butter, 2
oz. Rich crust : flead, i lb.; butter, 2 oz.; flour, 1 lb. The crust is
very good when made without any butter.
COMMON SUET-CRUST FOR PIES.
In many families this is preferred both for pies and tarts, to crust
made with butter, as being much more wholesome; but it should
never be served unless especially ordered, as it is to some persons
peculiarly distasteful. Chop the suet extremely small, and add from
six to eight ounces of it to a pound of flour, with a few grains of salt;
mix these with cold water into a firm paste, and work it very smooth.
Some cooks beat it with a paste-roller, until the suet is perfectly
blended with flour; but the crust is lighter without this. In exceed-
ingly sultry weather the suet, not being firm enough to chop, may be
sliced as thin as possible, and well beaten into the paste after it is
Flour, 2 lbs.; beef or veal kidney-suet, 12 to 16 oz.; salt (for
fruit-pies), 1 teaspoonful, for meat-pies, 1 teaspoonful.
worked up
VERY SUPERIOR SUET-CRUST.
Strip the skin entirely from some fresh veal or beef kidney-suet ;
chop, and then put it into the mortar, with a small quantity of pure-
flavoured lard, oil, or butter, and pound it perfectly smooth : it may
then be used for crust in the same way that butter is, in making
puff-paste, and in this form will be found a most excellent substitute
for it, for hot pies or tarts. It is not quite so good for those which
are to be served cold. Eight ounces of suet pounded with two of
butter, and worked with the fingers into a pound of flour, will make
an exceedingly good short crust; but for a very rich one the pro-
portion must be increased.
Good short crust: flour, 1 lb. ; suet, 8 oz.; butter, 2 oz.; salt,
teaspoonful. Richer crust : suet, 16 oz.; butter, 4 oz.; flour, 11 lb.;
salt, 1 small teaspoonful


CDIAP. Xvin.]
349
PASTRY.
VERY RICH SHORT CRUST FOR TARTS.
Break lightly, with the least possible handling, six ounces of
butter into eight of flour; add a dessertspoonful of pounded sugar,
and two or three of water ; roll the paste, for several minutes, to
blend the ingredients well, folding it together like puff-crust, and
touch it as little as possible.
Flour, 8 oz.; butter, 6 oz. ; pounded sugar, 1 dessertspoonfus ,
water, 1 to 2 spoonsful.
EXCELLENT SHORT CRUST FOR SWEET PASTRY.
Crumble down very lightly half a pound of butter into a pound of
flour, breaking it quite small. Mix weli with these a slight pinch of
salt and two ounces of sifted sugar, and add sufficient milk to make
them up into a very smooth and somewhat firm paste. Bake this
slowly, and keep it pale. It will be found an admirable crust if well
made and lightly handled, and will answer for many dishes much
better than puff-paste. It will rise in the oven too, and be extremely
light. Ten ounces of butter will render it ver rich, but we find
eight quite sufficient.
BRIOCHE PASTE.
The brioche is a rich, light kind of unsweetened bun or cake, very
commonly sold, and served to all classes of people in France, where
it is made in great perfection by good cooks and pastrycooks. It is
fashionable now at English tables, though in a different form, serving
principally as a crust to enclose rissoles, or to make cannelons and
fritters. We have seen it recommended for a vol-au-vent, for which
we should say it does not answer by any means so well as the fine
puff-paste called feuilletage. The large proportion of butter and
eggs which it contains render it to many persons highly indigestible;
and we mention this to warn invalids against it, as we have known
it to cause great suffering to persons out of health. To make it, take
a couple of pounds* of fine dry flour, sifted as for cakes, and separate
eight ounces of this from the remainder to make the leaven. Put
it into a small pan, and mix it lightly into a lithe paste, with half an
ounce of yeast, and a spoonful or two of warm water; make two or
three slight incisions across the top, throw a cloth over the pan, and
place it near the fire for about twenty minutes to rise. In the in-
terval make a hollow space in the centre of the remainder of the
* It should be remarked, that the directions for brioche-making are principally
derived from the French, and that the pound in their country weighs two ounces
more than with us: this diff:rence will account for the difficulty of working in
the number of eggs which they generally specify, and which render the paste too
inoist.


350
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. XVII
flour, and put into it half an ounce of salt, as muca fine sifted sugar,
and half a gill of cream, or a dessertspoonful of water; add a pound
of butter as free from moisture as it can be, and quite so from large
grains of salt; cut it into small bits, put it into the flour, and pour
on it one by one six fresh eggs freed from the specks; then with
the fingers work the flour gently into this mass until the whole forms
a perfectly smooth, and not stiff paste: a seventh egg, or the yolk of
one, or even of two, may be added with advantage if the flour will
absorb them; but the brioche must always be workable, and not so
moist as to adhere to the board and roller disagreeably. When the
leaven is well risen spread this paste out, and the leaven over it;
mix them well together with the hands, then cut the whole into
several portions, and change them about that the leaven may be in-
corporated perfectly and equally with the other ingredients: when
this is done, and the brioche is perfectly smooth and pliable, dust
some flour on a cloth, roll the brioche in it, and lay it into a pan.
P’lace it in summer in cool place, in winter in a warm one. It is
usually made over-night, and baked in the early part of the follow-
ing day. It should then be kneaded up afresh the first thing in the
morning. To mould it in the usual form, make it into balls of
uniform size, hollow these a little at the top by pressing the thumb
round them, brush them over with yolk of egg, and put a second
much smaller ball into the hollow part of each ; glaze them entirely
with yolk of egg, and send them to a quick oven for half an hour or
more. The paste may also be made into the form of a large cake,
then placed on a tin, or copper oven-leaf, and supported with a
pasteboard in the baking; for the form of which see introductory
page of Chapter XXVII.
Flour, 2 lbs.; yeast, } oz.; salt and sugar, each } oz.; butter, 1 lb;
eggs, 6 to 8
MODERN POTATO PASTY.
(An excellent family dish.)
A tin mould of the construction shown in the plate, with a per-
forated moveable top, and a small valve to allow the escape of the
steam, must be had for this pasty, which is a good family dish, and
which may be varied in numberless ways. Arrange at the bottom of
the mould from two to three pounds of mutton cutlets, freed, ac-
cording to the taste, from all, or from the greater portion of the fat,
then washed, lightly dredged on both sides with flour, and seasoned
with salt and pepper, or cayenne. Pour to them sufficient broth or
water to make the gravy, and add to it at pleasure, a tablespoonful of
mushroom catsup or of Harvey's auce. Have ready boiled, and
very smoothly mashed, with about an ounce of butter, and a spoon-
ful or two of milk or cream to each pound, as many good potatoes as
- 'll form a crust to the pasty of quite three inches thick; put the


CHAP, AVIL]
351
PASTRY,

cover on the mould and arrange these equally upon it, leaving them
a little rough on the surface. Bake the pasty in a moderate oven
from three-quarters of an hour to an hour and a quarter, according to
its size and its contents. Pin a folded napkin neatly round the
mould, before it is served, and have ready a hot dish to receive the
cover, which must not be lifted off until after the pasty is on the
table.
Chicken, or veal and oysters ; delicate pork chops with a seasoning
of sage and a little parboiled onion, or an eschalot or two finely
minced ; partridges or rabbits neatly carved, mixed with small
mushrooms, and moistened with a little good stock, will all give
excellent varieties of this dish, which may be made likewise with
highly seasoned slices of salmon freed from the skin, sprinkled with
fine herbs or intermixed with shrimps ; clarified butter, rich veal
stock, or good white wine, may be poured to them to form the gravy.
To thicken this, a little flour should be dredged upon the fish before
it is laid into the mould. Other kinds, such as cod, mullet, mackerel
in fillets, salt fish (previously kept at the point of boiling until three
parts done, then pulled into flakes, and put into the mould with hard
eggs sliced, a little cream, flour, butter, cayenne, and anchovy-
essence, and baked with mashed parsneps on the top), will all answer
well for this pasty. Veal, when used for it, should be well beaten
first : sweetbreads, sliced, may be laid in with it.
For a pasty of moderate size, two pounds, or two and a half of
meat, and from three to four of potatoes, will be sufficient; a quarter
of a pint of milk or cream, two small teaspoonsful of salt, and from
one to two ounces of butter must be mixed up with these last.*
CASSEROLE OF RICE.
Proceed exactly as for Gabrielle's pudding (see Chapter XXI.),
but substitute good veal broth or stock for the milk, and add a
couple of ounces more of butter. Fill the casserole when it is
• A larger proportion of cream and butter well dried into the potatoes over a
gentle fire after they are mashed, will render the crust of the pasty richer and
finer.


352
[CHAP. XVIII
MODERN COOKERY.
emptied, with a rich mince or fricassee, or with stewed oysters in a
béchamel sauce. French cooks make a very troublesome and elabo-
rate affair of this dish, putting to the rice to make it “mellow," a
great deal of pot-top fat, slices of fat ham, &c., which must after-
wards be well drained off, or picked out from it; but the dish, made
as we have directed, will be found excellent eating, and of very
elegant appearance, if it be moulded in a tasteful shape. It must
have a quick oven to colour, without too much drying it. The rice for
it must be boiled sufficiently tender to be crushed easily to a smooth
paste, and it must be mashed with a strong wooden spoon against the
sides of the stewpan until all the grains are broken. It may then,
when cool, be made like a raised pie with the hands, and decorated
with a design formed on it with a carrot cut into a point like a
graver. For a large casserole, a pound of rice and a quart of gravy
will be required : a bit of bread is sometimes used in filling the
mould, cut to the shape, and occupying nearly half the inside, but
always so as to leave a thick and compact crust in every part. Part
of the rice which is scooped from the inside is sometimes mixed
with the mince, or other preparation, with which the casserole is
filled
A GOOD COMMON ENGLISH GAME PIE,
Raise the flesh entire from the upper side of the best end of a
well-kept neck of venison, trim it to the length of the dish in which
the pie is to be served, and rub it with a mixture of salt, cayenne,
pounded mace, and nutmeg: Cut down into joints a fine young hare
which has hung from eight to fourteen days, bone the back and
thighs, and fill them with forcemeat No. 1 (Chapter VIII., page
157), but put into it a double portion of butter, and a small quantity
of minced eschalots, should their flavour be liked, and the raw liver
of the hare, chopped small. Line the dish with a rich short crust
(sce page 337), lay the venison in the centre, and the hare closely
round and on it; fill the vacant spaces with more forcemeat, add a
few spoonsful of well-jellied gravy, fasten on the cover securely,
ornament it or not, at pleasure, and bake the pie for two hours in a
well heated oven. The remnants and bones of the hare and venison
may be stewed down into a small quantity of excellent soup, or with
a less proportion of water into an admirable gravy, part of which,
after having been cleared from fat, may be poured into the pie. The
jelly, added to its contents at first, can be made, when no such stock
is at hand, of a couple of pounds of shin of beef, boiled down in a
quart of water, which must be reduced quite half, and seasoned only
with a good slice of lean ham, a few peppercorns, seven or eight
cloves, a blade of mace, and a little salt. One pound and a half of
flour will be sufficient for the crust ; this, when it is so preferred,
may be laid round the sides only of the dish, instead of entirely over
it. The prime joints of a second hare may be substituted for the


CHAP. XVIII.]
353
PASTRY.
venison when it can be more easily procured; but the pie inade
entirely of venison, without the forcemeat, will be far better.
Baked 2 hours.
Obs.- These same ingredients will make an excellent raised pie, if
the venison be divided and intermixed with the hare: the whole
should be highly seasoned, and all the cavities filled with the force-
meat No. 18 (Chapter VIII.),* or with the truffled sausage-meat of
page 263. The top, before the paste is laid over, should be covered
with slices of fat bacon, or with plenty of butter, to prevent the
surface of the meat from becoming hard. No liquid is to be put
into the pie until after it is buked, if at all. It will require from half
to a full hour more of the oven than if baked in a dish.
MODERN CHICKEN PIE.
Skin, and cut down into joints a couple of fowls, take out all the
bones and season the flesh highly with salt, cayenne, pounded mace,
and nutmeg ; line a dish with a thin paste, and spread over it a
layer of the finest sausage-meat, which has previously been moistened
with a spoonful or two of cold water ; over this place closely together
some of the boned chicken joints, then more sausage-meat, and con-
tinue thus with alternate layers of each, until the dish is full; roll
out, and fasten securely at the edges, a cover half an inch thick, trim
off the superfluous paste, make an incision in the top, lay some paste
leaves round it, glaze the whole with yolk of egg, and bake the pie
from an hour and a half to two hours in a well heated oven. Lay
a sheet or two of writing-paper over the crust, should it brown too
quickly. Minced herbs can be mixed with the sausage-meat at
pleasure, and a small quantity of eschalot also, when its flavour is
much liked: it should be well moistened with water, or the whole
will be un palatably dry. The pie may be served hot or cold, but we
would rather recommend the latter.
A couple of very young tender rabbits will answer exceedingly
well for it instead of fowls, and a border, or half paste in the dish
will generally be preferred to an entire lining of the crust, which is
now but rarely served, unless for pastry, which is to be taken out of
the dish or mould in which it is baked before it is sent to table.
A COMMON CHICKEN PIE.
Prepare the fowls as for boiling, cut them down into joints, and
season them with salt, white pepper, and nutmeg or pounded mace;
arrange tnem neatly in a dish bordered with paste, lay amongst them
hree or four fresh eggs boiled hard, and cut in halves, pour in some
cold water, put on a thick cover, pare the edge, and ornament it,
* The second or third forcemeat mentioned under this No. (18), would be
the most appropriate for a game pie.
A A


354
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. XVIII.
make a hole in the centre, lay a roll of paste, or a few leaves round
it, and bake the pie in a moderate oven from an hour to an hour and
a half. The back and neck bones may be boiled down with a bit or
two of lean ham, to make a little additional gravy, which can be
poured into the pie after it is baked.
PIGEON PIE.
Lay a border of fine puff paste round a large dish, and cover the
bottom with a veal cutlet or tender rump steak, free from fat and
bone, and seasoned with salt, cayenne, and nutmeg or pounded mace;
prepare with great nicety as many freshly-killed young pigeons as
the dish will contain in one layer; put into each a slice or ball of
butter, seasoned with a little cayenne and mace, lay them into the
dish with the breasts downwards, and between and over them put the
yolks of half a dozen or more of hard-boiled eggs; stick plenty of
butter on them, season the whole well with salt and spice, pour in
some cold water or veal broth for the gravy, roll out the cover three-
quarters of an inch thick, secure it well round the edge, ornament it
highly, and bake the pie for an hour or more in a well-heated oven.
It is a great improvement to fill the birds with small mushroom-
buttons, prepared as for partridges (see Chapter XV.): their livers
also may be put into them.
BEEF-STEAK PIE.
From a couple to three pounds of rump-steak will be sufficient for
a good family pie. It should be well kept though perfectly sweet,
for in no form can tainted meat be more offensive than when it is
enclosed in paste. Trim off the coarse skin, and part of the fat
should there be much of it (many eaters dislike it altogether in pies,
and when this is the case every morsel should be carefully cut
away). If the beef should not appear very tender, it may be gently
beaten with a paste-roller until the fibre is broken, then divided into
slices half as large as the hand, and laid into a dish bordered with
paste. It should be seasoned with salt and pepper, or cayenne, and
sufficient water poured in to make the gravy, and keep the meat
moist. Lay on the cover, and be careful always to brush the edge in
every part with egg or cold water, then join it securely to the paste
which is round the rim, trim both off close to the dish, pass the point
of the knife through the middle of the cover, lay some slight roll or
ornament of paste round it, and decorate the border of the pie in any
of the usual modes, which are too common to require description.
Send the pie to a well-heated, but not fierce oven for about an hour
and twenty minutes. To make a richer beef-steak pie put bearded
oysters in alternate layers with the meat, add their strained liquor to
a little good gravy in which the beards may be simmered for a few
minutes to give it further flavour, and make a light puff paste for


CHAP. XVIII. ]
355
PASTRY.
the crust. Some eaters like it seasoned with a small portion of
minced onion or eschalot when the oysters are omitted. Mushrooms
improve all meat-pies. Veal pies may be made by this receipt, or by
the second of those which follow. Slices of lean ham, or parboiled
ox-tongue, may be added to them.
1 to 1: hour.
COMMON MUTTON PIE.
A pound and a quarter of flour will make sufficient paste for
a moderate-sized pie, and two pounds of mutton freed from the
greater portion of the fat will fill it. Butter a dish and line it with
about half the paste rolled thin; lay in the mutton evenly, and
sprinkle over it three-quarters of an ounce of salt, and from half to
a whole teaspoonful of pepper according to the taste; pour in cold
water to within an inch of the brim. Roll the cover, which should
be quite half an inch thick, to the size of the dish; wet the edges of
the paste with cold water or white of egg, be careful to close them
securely, cut them off close to the rim of the dish, stick the point of
the knife through the centre, and bake the pie an hour and a quarter
in a well-heated oven.
Flour, 1 lb.; minced suet rather less than 1 lb.; or, butter, 4 oz.,
and very pure lard, 2 or 3 oz.; mutton, 2 lbs.; salt, 1 oz. ; pepper,
half to a whole teaspoonful; water, 1 pint: 14 hour.
A GOOD MUTTON PIE.
Lay a half-paste of short or of puff crust round a buttered dish ;
take the whole or part of a loin of mutton, strip off the fat entirely,
and raise the tlesh clear from the bones without dividing it, then slice
it into cutlets of equal thickness, season them well with salt and
pepper, or cayenne, and strew between the layers some finely-minced
herbs mixed with two or three eschalots, when the flavour of these
last is liked; or omit them, and roil quite thin some good forcemeat
(which can be flavoured with a little minced eschalot at pleasure),
and lay it between the cutlets: two or three mutton kidneys inter-
mingled with the meat will greatly enrich the gravy; pour in a
little cold water, roll the cover half an inch thick, or more should
the crust be short, as it will not rise like puff paste, close the pie
very securely, trim the edges even with the dish, ornament the pie
according to the taste, make a hole in the centre, and bake it from
an hour and a half to a couple of hours. The proportions of paste
and meat may be ascertained by consulting the last receipt. Gravy
made with part of the bones, quite cleared from fat, and left to
become cold, may be used to fill the pie instead of water.


356
[CHAP. Xron.
MODERN COOKERY.
RAISED PIES.
These may be made of any
size, and with any kind of meat,
poultry, or game, but the whole
must be entirely free from bone.
When the crust is not to be eaten,
it is made simply with a few
ounces of lard or butter dissolved
in boiling water, with which the
flour is to be mixed (with a spoon
Raised Pie.
at first, as the heat would be too
greit for the hands, but afterwards with the fingers) to a smooth and
firm paste. The French, who excel greatly in this form of pie,
use for it a good crust which they call a pâte brisée (see page 347),
and this is eaten usually with the meat which it contains. In either
case the paste must be sufficiently stiff to retain its form perfectly
after it is raised, as it will have no support to prevent its falling
The celebrated Monsieur V'de gives the following directions for
moulding it to a proper shape without difficulty; and as inex-
perienced cooks generally find a little at first in giving a good
appearance to these pies, we copy his instructions for them: " Take
a lump of paste proportionate to the size of the pie you are to make,
mould it in the shape of a sugar loaf, put it upright on the table,
then with the palms of your hands flatten the sides of it; when you
have equalized it all round and it is quite smooth, squeeze the
middle of the point down to half the height of the paste," then
hollow the inside by pressing it with the fingers, and in doing this
be careful to keep it in every part of equal thickness. Fill it,† roll
out the cover, egg the edges, press them securely together, make a
hole in the centre, lay a roll of paste round it, and encircle this with
a wreath of leaves, or ornament the pie in any other way, according
to the taste; glaze it with beaten yolk of egg, and bake it from
two to three hours in a well-heated oven if it be small, and from
four to five hours if it be large; though the time must be regulated
in some measure by the nature of the contents, as well as by the size
of the dish.
Obs.—We know not if we have succeeded in making the reader

We remember having partaken of one which was brought from Bordeaux,
and which contained a small boned ham of delicious flavour, surmounted by
boned partridges, above which were placed fine larks likewise boned; all the
interstices were filled with super-excellent forcemeat, and the whole, being a
solid mass of nourishing viands, would have formed an admirable traveller's
Larder in itself.
+ For the mode of doing this, see observations, page 253, and Chapter XXXIV,
A ham must be boiled or stewed tender, and freed from the skin and blackened
parts before it is laid in; poultry and game boned; and all meat highly
seasoned.


CHAP. XVIII.]
PASTRY.
357
comprchend that this sort of pie (with the exception of the cover, for
which a portion must at first be taken off) is made from one solid
lump of paste, which, after having been shaped into a cone, as
Monsieur Ude directs, or into a high round, or oval form, is hollowed
by pressing down the centre with the knuckles, and continuing to
kncad the inside equally round with the one hand, while the other
is pressed close to the outside. It is desirable that the mode of
doing this should be once seen by the learner, if possible, as mere
verbal instructions are scarcely sufficient to enable the quite-inex-
perienced cook to comprehend at once the exact form and appear-
ance which should be given to the paste, and some degree of ex-
pertness is always necessary to mould a pie of this kind well with the
fingers only. The first attempts should be made with very small
pies, which are less difficult to manage.
A VOL-AU-VENT. (ENTRÉE.)
This dish can be suc-
cessfully made only with the
finest and lightest puff-paste
(see feuilletage, page 345),
as its height, which ought
to be from four to five
inches, depends entirely on
its rising in the oven. Roll
it to something more than an
inch in thickness, and cut it
to the shape and size of the inside of the dish in which it is to be
served, or stamp it out with a fluted tin of proper dimensions; then
mark the cover evenly about an inch from the edge all round, and
ornament it and the border also, with a knife, as fancy may direct;
brush yolk of egg quickly over them, and put the vol-au-vent
immediately into a brisk oven, that it may rise well, and be finely
coloured, but do not allow it to be scorched. In from twenty to
thirty minutes, should it appear baked through, as well as sufficiently
browned, draw it out, and with the point of a knife detach the
cover carefully where it has been marked, and scoop out all the
soft unbaked crumb from the inside of the vol-au-vent; then turn
it gently on to a sheet of clean paper, to drain the butter from it.
At the instant of serving, fill it with a rich fricassee of lobster, or of
sweetbreads, or with turbot à la crême, or with the white part of
cold roast veal cut in thin collops not larger than a shilling, and
heated in good white sauce with oysters (see minced veal and oysters,
page 251), or with any other of the preparations which we shall
indicate in their proper places, and send it immediately to table.
The vol-au-vent, as the reader will perceive, is but the case, oi
crist, in which various kinds of delicate ragouts are served in an
elegant form. As these are most frequently composed of fish, or of


358
[CHLAP. XVIII.
MODERN COOKERY.
meats which have been already dressed, it is an economical as well as
an excellent mode of employing such remains. The sauces in which
they are heated must be quite thick, for they would otherwise
soften, or even run through the crust. This, we ought to observe,
should be examined before it is filled, and should any part appear too
thin, a portion of the crumb which has been taken out, should be
fastened to it with some beaten egg, and the whole of the inside
brushed lightly with more egg, in order to make the loose parts
of the rol-au-vent stick well together. This method is recommended
by an admirable and highly experienced cook, but it need only be
resorted to when the crust is not solid enough to hold the contents
securely.
For moderate-sized vol-au-vent, flour, } lb.; butter, } lb.; salt,
small saltspoonful; yolk, 1 egg; little water. Larger vol-au-vent,
lb. flour; other ingredients in proportion : baked 20 to 30
minutes.
Obs.-When the rol-au-vent is cut out with the fluted cutter, a
second, some sizes smaller, after being just dipped into hot water,
should be pressed nearly half through the paste, to mark the cover.
The border ought to be from three-quarters of an inch to an inch
and a half wide.
VOL-AU-VENT OF FRUIT. (ENTREMETS.)
After the crust has been made and baked as above, fill it at the
moment of serving with peaches, apricots, mogul, or any other
richly flavoured plums, which have been stewed tender in syrup; lift
them from this, and keep them hot while it is boiled rapidly almost
to jelly; then arrange the fruit in the vol-au-vent, and pour the
syrup over it. For the manner of preparing it, see compotes of
fruit, Chapter XXIV.; but increase the proportion of sugar nearly
half, that the juice may be reduced quickly to the proper consistency
for the vol-au-vent. Skin and divide the apricots, and quarter the
peaches, unless they should be very small.
VOL-AU-VENT A LA CRÊME. (ENTREMETS.)
After having raised the cover and emptied the vol-au-vent, lay it
on a sheet of paper, and let it become cold. Fill it just before it is
sent to table with fruit, either boiled down to a rich marmalade, or
stewed as for the preceding vol-au-vent, and heap well flavoured,
but not too highly sweetened, whipped cream over it. The edge of
the crust may be glazed by sifting sugar over it, when it is drawn
from the oven, and holding a salamander or red hot shovel above it;
or it may be left unglazed, and ornamented with bright coloured
fruit jelly.


CHAP. XVIII. ]
359
PASTRY.
OYSTER PATTIES.
(ENTRÉE).
Line some small patty-pans with fine puff-paste, rolled thin and to
preserve their form when baked, put a bit of bread into each ; lay on
the covers, pinch and trim the edges, and send the patties to a brisk
oven. Plump and beard from two to three dozens of small oysters;
mix very smoothly a teaspoonful of flour with an ounce of butter,
put them into a clean saucepan, shake them round over a gentle fire,
and let them simmer for two or three minutes; throw in a little salt,
pounded mace, and cayenne, then add, by slow degrees, two or three
spoonsful of rich cream, give these a boil, and pour in the strained
liquor of the oysters ; next, lay in the fish, and keep at the point of
boiling for a couple of minutes. Raise the covers from the patties,
take out the bread, fill them with the oysters and their sauce, and re-
place the covers. We have found it an improvement to stew the
beards of the fish with a strip or two of lemon-peel, in a little good
veal stock for a quarter of an hour, then to strain and add it to the
The oysters, unless very small, should be once or twice
divided.
sauce.
COMMON LOBSTER PATTIES.
Prepare the fish for these as directed for fricassecd lobster, Chapter
II., increasing a little the proportion of sauce. Fill the patty-cases
with the mixture quite hot, and serve immediately.
SUPERLATIVE LOBSTER-PATTIES.
(Author's Receipt.)
Form into balls about half the size of a
filbert either the cutlet-mixture or the
pounded lobster of Chapter III., roll them
in the sifted coral, warm them through very
gently, have ready some hot patty-cases
(see page 361 ), pour into each a small spoonful of rich white sauce,
or Sauce à l'Aurore (see page 118), lay the balls round the edge,
pile a larger one in the centre, and serve the whole very quickly.
The Dresden patties of page 387 may be thus filled.
GOOD CHICKEN PATTIES. (ENTRÉE.)
Raise the white flesh entirely from a young undressed fowl, divide
it once or twice, and lay it into a small clean saucepan, in which
* These patties should be made small, with a thin crust, and well filled with
the oysters and their sauce. The substitution of fried crumbs for the covers will
vary them very agreeably. For lobster patties, prepare the fish as for a vol-au-
vent, but cut it smaller.


360
[сHAP хуш.
MODERN COOKERY.
about an ounce of butter has been dissolved, and just begins to
simmer; strew in a slight seasoning of salt, mace, and cayenne, and
stew the chicken very softly indeed for about ten minutes, taking
every precaution against its browning : turn it into a dish with the
butter, and its own gravy, and let it become cold. Mince it with a
sharp knite; heat it. without allowing it to boil, in a little good
white sauce (which may be made of some of the bones of the fowl),
and fill ready-baked patty-crusts, or small rol-au-vents with it, just
before they are sent to table; or stew the flesh only just sufficiently
to render it firm, mix it after it is minced and seasoncu with a spoon-
ful or two of strong gravy, fill the patties, and bake them from
fifteen to eighteen minutes. It is a great improvement to stew and
mince a few mushrooms with the chicken.
The breasts of cold turkeys, fowls, partridges, or pheasants, or the
white part of cold veal, minced, heated in a béchamel sauce, will
serve at once for patties: they may also be made of cold game,
heated in an Espagnole, or in a good brown gravy.
PATTIES A LA PONTIFE. (ENTRÉE.)
(A fast day, or Maigre dish.)
Mirce, but not very small, the yolks of six fresh hard-boiled eggs;
inince also and mix with them a couple of fine truffles,* a large salt-
spoonful of salt, half the quantity of mace and nutmeg, and a fourth
as much of cayenne. Moisten these ingredients with a spoonful of
thick cream, or béchamel maigre (see page 109), or with a dessert-
spoonful of clarified butter; line the patty-moulds, fill them with
the mixture, cover, and bake them from twelve to fifteen minutes in
a moderate oren. They are excellent made with the cream-crust of
Yolks hard-boiled eggs, 6; truffles, 2 large; seasoning of salt,
mace, nutmeg, and cayenne ; cream, or béchamel maigre, 1 table-
spoonful, or clarified butter, 1 dessertspoonful : baked moderate
oven, 12 to 15 minutes.
Obs.-A spoonful or two of jellied stock or gravy, or of good
white sauce, converts these into admirable patties: the same ingre-
dients make also very superior rolls or cannelons. For Patties à la
Cardinale, small mushroom-buttons stewed as for partridges, Chapter
XIII., before they are minced, must be substituted for truffies; and
the butter in which they are simmered should be added with them
to the eggs
page 347.
EXCELLENT MEAT ROLLS.
Pound, as for potting (see page 305), and with the same propor-
tion of butter and of seasonings, some half-roasted veal, chicken, or
• The bottled ones will answer well for these.


362
[CHAP. Xvm.
MODERN COOKERY.
small crnament of paste cut from the remnants, and baked gently of
a light colour. Serve the tartlets cold, or if wanted hot for table
put them back into the oven for one minute after they are filled.
A SEFTON, OR VEAL CUSTARD.
Pour boiling, a pint of rich, clear, pale veal gravy on six fresh
eggs, which have been well beaten and strained : sprinkle in directly
the grated rind of a fine lemon, a little cayenne, some salt if needed,
and a quarter-teaspoonful of mace. Put a paste border round a dish,
pour in, first two ounces of clarified butter, and then the other ingre-
dients; bake the Sefton in a very slow oven from twenty-five to
thirty minutes, or until it is quite firm in the middle, and send it to
table with a little good gravy. Very highly flavoured game stock,
in which a few mushrooms have been stewed, may be used for this
dish with great advantage in lieu of veal gravy; and a sauce made of
the smallest mushroom buttons, may be served with it in either case.
The mixture can be baked in a whole paste, if preferred so, or in well
buttered cups; then turned out and covered with the sauce before it
is sent to table.
Rich veal or game stock, 1 pint; fresh eggs, 6; rind, 1 lemon ;
little salt and cayenne ; pounded mace, 1 teaspoonful ; butter, 2 oz. :
baked, 25 to 30 minutes, slow oven.
APPLE CAKE, OR GERMAN TART.
Work together with the fingers, ten ounces of butter and a pound
of flour, until they resemble fine crumbs of bread ; throw in a small
pinch of salt, and make them into a firm smooth paste with the yolks
of two eggs and a spoonful or two of water. Butter thickly, a plain
tin cake, or pie mould (those which open at the sides, see plate, page
344, are best adapted for the purpose); roll out the paste thin, place
the mould upon it, trim a bit to its exact size, cover the bottom of the
mould with this, then cut a band the height of the sides, and press
it smoothly round them, joining the edge, which must be moistened
with egg or water, to the bottom crust; and fasten upon them, to
prevent their separation, a narrow and thin band of paste, also
moistened. Next, fill the mould nearly from the brim with the fol-
lowing marmalade, which must be quite cold when it is put in.
Boil together, over a gentle fire at first, but more quickly afterwards,
three pounds of good apples with fourteen ounces of pounded sugar,
or of the finest Lisbon, the strained juice of a large lemon, three
ounces of fresh butter, and a teaspoonful of pounded cinnamon, or
the lightly grated rind of a couple of lemons: when the whole is
perfectly smooth and dry, turn it into a pan to cool, and let it be
quite cold before it is put into the paste. In early autumn, a larger
proportion of sugar may be required, but this can be regulated by the
taste When the mould is filled, roll out the cover, lay it carefully


CHAP. XVIII.]
363
PASTRY.
over the marmalade that it may not touch it; and when the cake is
securely closed, trim otf the superfluous paste, add a little pounded
sugar to the parings, spread them out very thin, and cut them into
leaves to ornament the top of the cake, round which they may be
placed as a sort of wreath.* Bake it for an hour in a moderately
brisk oven ; take it from the mould, and should the sides not be
sufficiently coloured put it back for a few minutes into the oven upon
a baking tin. Lay a paper over the top, when it is of a fine light
brown, to prevent its being too deeply coloured. This cake should
be served hot.
Paste : flour, 1 lb. ; butter, 10 oz.; yolks of eggs, 2; little water.
Marmalade: apples, 3 lbs.; sugar, 14 oz. (more if needed); juice of
lemon, 1; rinds of lemons, 2 ; butter, 3 oz.: baked, 1 hour
TOURTE MERIN
INGUÉE, OR TART WITH ROYAL ICING.
Lay a band of fine paste round the rim of a tart-dish, fill it with
any kind of fruit mixed with a moderate proportion of sugar, roll
out the cover very evenly, moisten the edges of the paste, press them
together carefully, and trim them off close to the dish ; spread
equally over the top, to within rather more than an inch of the edge
all round, the whites of three fresh eggs beaten to a quite solid froth
and mixed quickly at the moment of using them with three table-
spoonsful of dry sifted sugar. Put the tart into a moderately brisk
oven, and when the crust has risen well and the icing is set, either
lay a sheet of writing-paper lightly over it, or draw it to a part of
the oven where it will not take too much colour. This is now a
fashionable mode of icing tarts, and greatly improves their appear-
ance.
Bake half an hour.
A GOOD APPLE TART.
A pound and a quarter of apples weighed after they are pared and
cored, will be sufficient for a small tart, and four ounces more for
one of moderate size. Lay a border of English puff-paste, or of
cream-crust round the dish, just dip the apples into water, arrange
them very compactly in it, higher in the centre than at the sides,
and strew amongst them from three to four ounces of pounded
sugar, or more should they be very acid: the grated rind and the
strained juice of half a lemon will much improve their flavour. Lay
Or, instead of these, fasten on it with a little white of egg, after it is taken
from the oven, some ready-baked leaves of almond-paste (see page 356), either
plain or coloured.
+ The limits to which we are obliged to confine this volume, compel us to omit
many receipts which we would gladly insert; we have, therefore, rejected those
which may be found in almost every English cookery book, for such as are, we
apprehend, less known to the reader: this will account for the small number of
receipts for pies and fruit tarts to be found in the present chapter.


361
[CHAP. XVIII.
MODERN COOKERY.
on the cover rolled thin, and ice it or not at pleasure. Send the tart
to a moderate oven for about half an hour. This may be converted
into the old-fashioned creamed apple tart, by cutting out the cover
while it is still quite hot, leaving only about an inch-wide border of
paste round the edge, and pouring over the apples when they have
become cold, from half to three-quarters of a pint of rich boiled
custard. The cover divided into triangular sippets, was formerly
stuck round the inside of the tart, but ornamental leaves of pale
puff-paste have a better effect. Well-drained whipped cream inay
be substituted for the custard, and be piled high, and lightly over
the fruit.
TART OF VERY YOUNG GREEN APPLES. (GOOD.)
Take very young apples from the tree before the cores are formed,
clear off the buds and stalks, wash them well, and fill a tart-dish
with them after having rolled them in plenty of sugar, or strew
layers of sugar between them; add a very small quantity of water,
and bake the tart rather slowly, that the fruit may be tender quite
through. It will resemble a green apricot-tart if carefully made.
We give this receipt from recollection, having bad the dish served
often formerly, and having found it very good.
BARBERRY TART.
Barberries, with half their weight of fine brown sugar, when they
are thoroughly ripe, and with two ounces more when they are not
quite so, make an admirable tart. For one of moderate size, put into
a dish bordered with paste three quarters of a pound of barberries
stripped from their stalks, and six ounces of sugar in alternate
layers; pour over them three tablespoonsful of water, put on the
cover, and bake the tart for half an hour. Another way of making
it is, to line a shallow tin pan with very thin crust, to mix the fruit
and sugar well together with a spoon before they are laid in, and to
put bars of paste across instead of a cover; or it may be baked
without either *
THE LADY'S TOURTE, AND CHRISTMAS TOURTE A LA
CHÂTELAINE.
To make this Tourte, which, when filled, is of pretty appearance,
two paste-cutters are requisite, one the size, or nearly so, of the
inside of the dish in which the entremets is to be served, the other not
• The French make their fruit-tarts generally thus, in large shallow pans.
Plums, split and stoned (or if of small kinds, left entire), cherries and
currants freed from the stalks, and various other fruits, all rolled in plenty of
sugar, are baked in the uncovered crust; or this is baked by itseli, and then
Silled atterwards with fruit previously stewed tender.


CHAP. XVIII.]
305
PASTRY.
more than an inch in dia.
meter, and both of them
fluted, as will be seen by
the engraving. To make
the paste for it, throw a
small half saltspoonful of
Lady's Tourte.
salt into half a pound of the
finest flour, and break lightly into it four ounces of fresh butter,
which should be firm. Make these up smoothly with cold milk or
water, of which nearly a quarter of a pint will be sufficient, unless
the butter should be very hard, when a spoonful or two more must
be added. Roll the paste out as lightly as possible twice or thrice
if needful, to blend the butter thoroughly with it, and each time
either fold it in three by wrapping the ends over each other, or fold
it over and over like a roll pudding. An additional ounce, or even
two, of butter can be used for it when very rich pastry is liked, but
the tourte will not then retain its form so well. Roll it out evenly to
something more than three-quarters of an inch in thickness, and
press the large cutter firmly through it; draw away the superfluous
paste, and lay the tourte on a lightly floured baking-tin. Roll the
remainder of the paste until it is less than a quarter of an inch thick,
and stamp out with the smaller cutter-of which the edge should be
dipped into hot water, or slightly encrusted with flour-as many
rounds as will form the border of the tourte. In placing them upon
it, lay the edge of one over the other just sufficiently to give a shell-
like appearance to the whole; and with the finger press lightly on
the opposite part of the round to make it adhere to the under paste.
Next, with a sharp-pointed knife, make an incision very evenly
round the inside of the tourte nearly close to the border, but be
extremely careful not to cut too deeply into the paste. Bake it in a
gentle oven, from twenty to thirty minutes. When it is done,
detach the crust from the centre, where it has been marked with
the knife, take out part of the crumb, fill the space high with
apricot-jan, or with any other choice preserve, set it again for an
instant into the oven, and serve it hot or cold. Spikes of blanched
almonds, filberts, or pistachio-nuts, may be strewed over the pre-
serve, when they are considered an improvement; and the border of
the pastry may be glazed or ornamented to the fancy; but if well
made, it will generally please in its quite simple form. It may be
converted into a delicious entrée, by filling it either with oysters,
or sliced sweetbreads, stewed, and served in thick, rich, white
sauce, or héchamel. Lobster also prepared and moulded as for the
new lobster patties of page 359, will form a superior dish even to
these.
Obs.- Six ounces of flour, and three of butter, will make suffi-
cient paste for this tourte, when it is required only of the usual
moderate size. If richer paste be used for it, it must have two or


366
[CHAP. XYIN.
MODERN COOKERY.
oven.
three additional turns or rollings to prevent its losing its form in the
Christmas Tourte à la Châtelaine.-- Make the case for this tourte as
for the preceding one, and put sufficient mince-meat to fill it hand-
somely into a jar, cover it very securely with paste, or with two or
three folds of thick paper, and bake it gently for half an hour or
longer, should the currants, raisins, &c., not be fully tender. Take
out the inside of the tourte, heap the hot mince-meat in it, pour a
little fresh brandy over ; just touch it with a strip of lighted writing-
paper at the door of the dining-room, and serve it in a blaze; or if
better liked so, serve it very hot without the brandy, and with
Devonshire cream as an accompaniment.*
.
GENOISES A LA REINE, OR HER MAJESTY'S PASTRY.
Make some nouilles (see page 5), with the yolks of four fresh
eggs, and when they are all cut as directed there, drop them lightly
into a pint and a half of boiling cream (new milk will answer quite
as well, or a portion of each may be used), in which six ounces of
fresh butter have been dissolved. When these have boiled quickly
for a minute or two, during which time they must be stirred to pre-
vent their gathering into lumps, add a small pinch of salt, and six
ounces of sugar on which the rinds of two lemons have been rasped;
place the saucepan over a clear and very gentle fire, and when the
mixture has simmered from thirty to forty minutes take it off, stir
briskly in the yolks of six eggs, and pour it out upon a delicately
clean baking-tin which has been slightly rubbed in every part with
butter; level the nouilles with a knife to something less than a
quarter of an inch of thickness, and let them be very evenly spread;
put them into a moderate oven, and bake them of a fine equal brown:
should any air-bladders appear, pierce them with the point of a knife.
On taking the paste from the oven, divide it into two equal parts;
turn one of these, the under-side uppermost, on to a clean tin or a
large dish, and spread quickly over it a jar of fine apricot-jam, place
the other half upon it, the brown side outwards, and leave the paste
to become cold ; then stamp it out with a round or diamond-shaped
cutter, and arrange the genoises tastefully in a dish. This pastry will
be found delicious the day it is baked, but its excellence is destroyed
by keeping Peach, green-gage, or magnum bonum jam, will serve
for it quite as well as apricot. We strongly recommend to our
readers this preparation, baked in patty-pans, and served hot; or the
whole quantity made into a pudding.
From the smaller ones &
little may be taken out with a teaspoon, and replaced with some
preserve just before they are sent to table; or they may thus be
eaten cold.
* Sufficient of cream for this purpose can easily be prepared from good milk,


CHAP. XVI.]
307
PASTRY.
Nouilles of 4 eggs; cream or milk, 1) pint ; butter, 6 oz.; sugar
6 oz.; rasped rinds of lemons, 2; grain of salt: 30 to 40 minutes
Yolks of eggs, 6: baked from 15 to 25 minutes
ALMOND PASTE.
For a single dish of pastry, blanch seven ounces of fine Jordan
almonds and one of bitter;* throw them into cold water as they are
done, and let them remain in it for an hour or two; then wipe, and
pound them to the finest paste, moistening them occasionally with a
few drops of cold water, to prevent their oiling ; next, add to, and
mix thoroughly with them, seven ounces of highly-refined, dried,
and sifted sugar; put them into a small preserving-pan, or enamelled
stewpan, and stir them over a clear and very gentle fire until they
are so dry as not to adhere to the finger when touched; turn the
paste immediately into an earthen pan or jar, and wben cold it will
be ready for use.
Jordan almonds, 7 oz.; bitter almonds, 1 oz.; cold water, 1 table-
spoonful ; sugar, 7 oz.
Obs.-The pan in which the paste is dried, should by no means be
placed upon the fire, but high above it on a bar or trevet : should it
be allowed by accident to harden too much, it must be sprinkled
plentifully with water, broken up quite small, and worked, as it
warms, with a strong wooden spoon to a smooth paste again. We
have found this method perfectly successful; but, if time will permit,
it should be moistened some hours before it is again set over the
fire
TARTLETS OF ALMOND PASTE.
Butter slightly the smallest-sized patty-pans, and line them with
the almond-paste rolled as thin as possible; cut it with a sharp knife
close to their edges, and bake or rather dry the tartlets slowly at the
mouth of a very cool oven. If at all coloured, they should be only
of the palest brown; but they will become perfectly crisp without
losing their whiteness if left for some hours in a very gently-heated
stove or oven. They should be taken from the pans when two-thirds
done, and laid, reversed, upon a sheet of paper placed on a dish or
board, before they are put back into the oven. At the instant of
servin;5, fill them with bright-coloured whipped cream, or with peach
or apricot jam ; if the preserve be used, lay over it a small star or
other ornament cut from the same paste, and dried with the tartlets.
Siſted sugar, instead of flour, must be dredged upon the board and
roller in using almond paste. Leaves and flowers formed of it, and
dried gradually until perfectly crisp, will keep for a long time in a
* When these are objected to, use half a pound of the sweet almonds.


308
[CHAF. XVIIL
MODERN COOKERY.
tin box or canister, and they form elegant decorations for pastry.
When a Aluted cutter the size of the patty pans is at hand, it will be
an improvement to cut out the paste with it, and then to press it
lightly into them, as it is rather apt to break when pared off with a
knife. To colour it, prepared cochineal, or spinach-green, must be
added to it in the mortar.
FAIRY FANCIES.
(Fantaisies de Fées.)
A small, but very inexpensive set
of tin cutters must be had for this
pretty form of pastry, which is, how.
erer, quite worthy of so slight a cost.
The short crust, of page 319, answers
for it better than puff paste. Roll
it thin and very even, and with the
larger tin, shaped thus, cut out a dozen or more of small sheets;
then, with a couple of round cutters, of which one should be about
an inch in diameter, and the other
only half the size, form four times
the number of rings, and lay them
on the sheets in the manner shown
in the engraving. The easier mode
of placing them regularly, is to raise
each ring without remo
moving the small cutter from it, to moisten it
with a camel's hair brush dipped in white of egg, and to lay it on the
paste as it is gently loosened from the tin, When all the pastry is
prepared, set it into a very gentle oven, that it may become crisp and
yet remain quite pale. Before it is sent to table, fill the four divi-
sions of each fantaisie with preserve of a different colour. For ex-
ample: one ring with apple or strawberry jelly, another with apricot
jam, a third with peach or green-gage, and a fourth with raspberry
jelly. The cases may be iced, and ornamented in various ways
before they are baked. They are prettiest when formed of white
almond-paste, with pink or pale green rings : they may then be filled,
at the instant of serving, with well-drained whipped cream.
MINCEMEAT.
(Author's Receipt.)
To one pound of an unsalted ox-tongue, boiled tender and cut free
from the rind, add two pounds of tine stoned raisins, two of beef
kidney-suet, two pounds and a half of currants well cleaned and
dried, two of good apples, two and a half of fine Lisbon sugar, from
half to a whole pound of candied peel according to the taste, the


CHAP. XVill.]
369
PASTRY.
grated rinds of two large lemons, and two more boiled quite tender.
and chopped up entirely, with the exception of the pips, two small
nutmegs, half an ounce of salt, a large teaspoonful of pounded mace,
rather more of ginger in powder, half a pint of brandy, and as much
good sherry or Madeira. Mince these ingredients separately, and
mix the others all well before the brandy and the wine are added;
press the whole into a jar or jars, and keep it closely covered. It
should be stored for a few days before it is used, and will remain
good for many weeks. Some persons like a slight flavouring of
cloves in addition to the other spices ; others add the juice of two or
three lemons, and a larger quantity of brandy. The inside of a
tender and well-roasted sirloin of beef will answer quite as well as
the tongue.
Of a fresh-boiled ox-tongue, or inside of roasted sirloin, 1 lb. ;
stoned raisins and minced apples, each 2 lbs. ; currants and fine
Lisbon sugar, each 24 lbs.; candied orange, lemon or citron rind, 8
to 16 oz.; boiled lemons, 2 large ; rinds of two others, grated ; salt,
oz.; nutmegs, 2 small ; pounded mace, 1 large teaspoonful, and
rather more af ginger; good sherry or Madeira, á pint ; brandy, }
pint.
Obs.-The lemons will be sufficiently boiled in from one hour to
one and a quarter.
SUPERLATIVE MINCEMEAT.
Take four large lemons, with their weight of golden pippins pared
and cored, of jar-raisins, currants, candied citron and orange-rind.
and the finest suet, and a fourth part more of pounded sugar. Boil
the lemons tender, chop them small, but be careful first to extract
all the pips ; add them to the other ingredients, after all have been
prepared with great nicety, and mix the whole well with from three
to four glasses of good brandy. Apportion salt and spice by the
preceding receipt. We think that the weight of one lemon, in meat,
improves this mixture ; or, in lieu of it, a small quantity of crushed
macaroons added just before it is baked.
MINCE PIES. (ENTREMETS.)
Butter some tin pattypans well, and line them evenly with fine
puff paste rolled thin; fill them with mincemeat, moisten the edges
of the covers, which should be nearly a quarter of an inch thick,
close the pies carefully, trim off the superfluous paste, make a small
aperture in the centre of the crust with a fork or the point of a knife,
ice the pies or not, at pleasure, and bake them half an hour in a well-
heated but not fierce oven : lay a paper over them when they are
partially done, should they appear likely to take too much colour.
1 hour.
вп


370
[CHAP. XVIII.
MODERN COOKERY.
MINCE PIES ROYAL. (ENTREMETS.)
Add to half a pound of good mincemeat an ounce and a half of
pounded sugar, the grated rind and the strained juice of a large
lemon, one ounce of clarified butter, and the yolks of four eggs; beat
these well together, and half fill, or rather more, with the mixture,
some pattypans lined with fine paste; put them into a moderate oven,
and when the insides are just set, ice them thickly with the whites
of the eggs beaten to snow, and mixed quickly at the moment
with four heaped tablespoonsful of pounded sugar; set them im-
mediately into the oven again, and bake them slowly of a fine light
brown.
Mincemeat, ļ lb.; sugar, l} oz.; rind and juice, 1 large lemon ;
butter, 1 oz.; yolks, 4 eggs. Icing: whites, 4 eggs; sugar, 4 table-
spoonsful.
THE MONITOR'S TART, OR TOURTE A LA JUDD.
Put into an enamelled stewpan, or into a delicately clean saucepan,
three quarters of a pound of well-flavoured apples, weighed after
they are pared and cored ; add to them from three to four ounces of
pounded sugar, an ounce and a half of fresh butter cut small, and
half a teaspoonful of pounded cinnamon, or the lightly grated rind of
a small lemon. Let them stand over, or by the side of a gentle fire
until they begin to soften, and toss them now and then to mingle the
whole well, but do not stir them with a spoon; they should all re-
main unbroken and rather firm. Turn them into a dish, and let
them become cold. Divide three-quarters of a pound of good light
paste into two equal portions; roll out one quite thin and round,
flour an oven-leaf and lay it on, as the tart cannot so well be mored
after it is made ; place the apples upon it in the form of a dome, but
leave a clear space of an inch or more round the edge; moisten this
with white of egg, and press the remaining half of the paste (which
should be rolled out to the same size, and laid carefully over the
apples) closely upon it: they should be well secured, that the syrup
from the fruit may not burst through. Whisk the white of an egg
to a froth, brush it over the tart with a paste brush or a small bunch
of feathers, sift sugar thickly over, and then strew upon it some
almonds blanched and roughly chopped ; bake the tart in a
moderate oven from thirty-five to forty-five minutes. It may be
lilled with peaches, or apricots, half stewed like the apples, or
with cherries merely rolled in fine sugar; or with the pastry cream
of page 173.
Light paste, } to 4 lb.; apples, 12 oz. ; butter, 1} oz.; sugar,
4 oz.; glazing of egg and sugar ; some almonds : 35 to 45
minutes.


CHAP. XVII.]
371
PASTRY.
PUDDING PIES. (ENTREMETS.)
This form of pastry (or its name at least) is, we believe, peculiar
to the county of Kent, where it is made in abundance, and eaten by
all classes of people during Lent. Boil for fifteen minutes three
Ounces of ground rice* in a pint and a half of new milk, and when
taken from the fire stir into it three ounces of butter and four of
sugar; add to these six well-beaten eggs, a grain or two of salt, and
a flavouring of nutmeg or lemon-rind at pleasure. When the mix-
ture is nearly cold, line some large patty pans or some saucers with
thin puff paste, fill them with it three parts full, strew the tops
thickly with currants which have been cleaned and dried, and bake
the pudding-pies from fifteen to twenty minutes in a gentle oven.
Milk, 1} pint; ground rice, 3 oz.: 15 minutes. Butter, 3 oz.;
sugar, 1 lb: ; nutmeg or lemon-rind; eggs, 6; currants, 4 to 6 oz.
15 to 30 minutes
PUDDING PIES.
(A commoner kind.)
One quart of new milk, five ounces of ground rice, butter, one
ounce and a half (or more), four ounces of sugar, half a small
nutmeg grated, a pinch of salt, four large eggs, and three ounces of
currants.
COCOA-NUT CHEESE-CAKES.
(ENTREMETS.)
(Jamaica Receipt.)
Break carefully the shell of the nut, that the liquid it contains
may not escape.t Take out the kernel, pare thinly off the dark
skin, and grate the nut on a delicately clean grater; put it, with its
weight of pounded sugar, and its own milk, or a couple of spoonsful
or rather more of water, into a silver or block-tin saucepan, or a very
small copper stewpan perfectly tinned, and keep it gently stirred over
a quite clear fire until it is tender : it will sometimes require an
hour's stewing to make it so. When a little cooled, add to the nut,
and beat well with it, some eggs properly whisked and strained, and
the grated rind of half a lemon. Line some pattypans with fine
paste, put in the mixture, and bake the cheese-cakes from thirteen
to fifteen minutes.
Grated cocoa-nut, 6 oz. ; sugar, 6 oz.; the milk of the nut, or of
* Or rice-flour.
+ This, as we have elsewhere stated, is best secured by boring the shell before
it is broken. The milk of the nut should never be used unless it be very fresh.


372
[CHAP. XVIII
MODERN COOKERY.
water, 2 large tablespoonsful: } to 1 hour. Eggs, 5 : lemon-rind,
of 1: 13 to 15 minutes
Obs.-We have found the cheese-cakes made with these propor-
tions very excellent indeed, but should the mixture be considered
too sweet, another egg or two can be added, and a little brandy
also. With a spoonful or two more of liquid too, the nut would
become tender in a shorter time
COMMON LEMON TARTLETS.
Beat four eggs until they are exceedingly light, add to them
gradually four ounces of pounded sugar, and whisk these together
for five minutes; strew lightly in, if it be at hand, a dessertspoonful
of potato flour, if not, of common flour well dried and sifted,* then
throw into the mixture by slow degrees, three ounces of good
butter, which should be dissolved, but only just luke-warm : beat
the whole well, then stir briskly in, the strained juice and the
grated rind of one lemon and a half. Line some patty pans with fine
puff-paste rolled very thin, fill them two-thirds full, and bake the
tartlets about twenty minutes, in a moderate oven.
Eggs, 4; sugar, 4 oz.; potato-flour, or common flour, 1 dessert-
spoonful; butter, 3 oz. ; juice and rind of 1} full-sized lemon
baked 15 to 20 minutes.
MADAME WERNER'S ROSENVIK CHEESE-CAKES.
Blanch and pound to the finest possible paste, four ounces of fine
fresh Jordan almonds, with a few drops of lemon-juice or water,
then mix with them, very gradually indeed, six fresh, and thoroughly
well-whisked eggs; throw in by degrees twelve ounces of pounded
sugar, and beat the mixture without intermission all the time: add
then the finely grated rinds of four small, or of three large lemons,
and afterwards, by very slow degrees, the strained juice of all.
When these ingredients are perfectly blended, pour to them in smali
portions, four ounces of just liquefied butter (six of clarified i
exceedingly rich cheese-cakes are wished for), and again whisk the
mixture lightly for several minutes ; thicken it over the fire like
boiled custard, and either put it into small pans or jars for storing,
or fill with it, one-third full, some patty pans lined with the finest
paste; place lightly on it a layer of apricot, orange, or lemon-
marmalade, and on this pour as much more of the mixture. Bake
the cheese-cakes from fifteen to twenty minutes in a moderate oren.
They are very good without the layer of preserve.
A few ratifias, or three or four macaroons rolled to powder, or a stale sponge
or Naples biscuit or two, reduced to the finest crumbs, may be substituted für
either of these : more lemon, too, can be added to the taste.
+ This preparation will make excellent fanchonettes, or pastry-sandwiches. It
will not curdle if gently boiled for two or three minutes (and stirred withcui
ceasing), and it may be long kept afterwards.


CHAP. XVIII.]
373
PASTRY.
Jordan almonds, 4 oz.; eggs, 6; sugar, 12 oz.; rinds and strained
juice of 4 small, or of 3 quite large lemons; butter, 4 oz. (6 for rich
cheese-cakes); layers of preserve. Baked 15 to 20 minutes, moderate
oven
APPEL KRAPFEN.
(German Receipt.)
Boil down three-quarters of a pound of good apples with four
ounces of pounded sugar, and a small glass of white wine, or the
strained juice of a lemon ; when they are stewed quite to a pulp,
keep them stirred until they are thick and dry; then mix them
gradually with four ounces of almonds, beaten to a paste, or very
finely chopped, two ounces of candied orange or lemon-rind shred
extremely small, and six ounces of jar raisins stoned and quartered :
to these the Germans add a rather high flavouring of cinnamon,
which is a very favourite spice with them, but a grating of nutmeg,
and some fresh lemon-peel, are, we think, preferable for this com-
position. Mix all the ingredients well together; roll out some
butter-crust a full back-of-knife thickness, cut it into four-inch
squares, brush the edges to the depth of an inch round with beaten
egg, fill them with the mixture, lay another square of paste on each,
press them very securely together, make, with the point of a knife, a
small incision in the top of each, glaze them or not at pleasure, and
bake them rather slowly, that the raisins may have time to become
tender. They are very good. The proportion of sugar must be
regulated by the nature of the fruit; and that of the almonds can be
diminished when it is thought too much. A delicious tart of the
kind is made by substituting for the raisins and candied orange-rind,
two heaped tablespoonsful of very fine apricot jam.
here
the te
reb
CRÊME PATISSIÈRE, CR PASTRY CREAM.
To one ounce of fine flour add, very gradually, the beaten yolks of
three fresh eggs; stir to them briskly, and in small portions at first,
three-quarters of a pint of boiling cream, or of cream and new milk
mixed; then turn the whole into a clean stew pan, and stir it over a
very gentle fire until it is quite thick, take it off, and stir it well up
and round; replace it over the fire, and let it just simmer from six
to eight minutes ; pour it into a basin, and add to it immediately a
couple of ounces of pounded sugar, one and a half of fresh butter,
cut small, or clarified, and a spoonful of the store mixture of page
153, or a little sugar which has been rubbed on the rind of a leinon.
The cream is rich enough for commcn use without further addition;
but an ounce and a half of ratifias, crushed almost to powder with a
pastc-roller improves it much, and they should be mixed with it for
the receipt which follows.
dances
ITCİT


374
[CHAP. XVIII.
MODERN COOKERY.
Flour, 1 oz.; yolks of eggs, 3; boiling cream, or milk and cream
mixed, pint: just simmered, 6 to 8 minutes. Butter, 14 Oz.
sugar, 2 oz. ; little store-flavouring, or rasped lemon-rind; ratifias,
1} oz.
Obs.- This is an excellent preparation, which may be used for
tartlets, cannelons, and other forms of pastry, with extremely good
effect.
SMALL VOLS-AU-VENTS, A LA PARISIENNE. (ENTREMETS.)
Make some small vols-au-vents by the directions of page 361,
either in the usual way, or with the rings of paste placed upon the
rounds. Ice the edges as soon as they are taken from the oven, by
sitting fine sugar thickly on them, and then holding a salamander or
heated shovel over them, until it melts and forms a sort of pale
barley-sugar glaze. Have ready, and quite hot, some crême patis-
sière, made as above; fill the vols-au-vents with it, and send them to
table instantly. These will be found very good without the icing
PASTRY SANDWICHES.
Divide equally in two, and roll off square and as thin as possible,
some rich puff paste ;* lay one half on a buttered tin, or copper
oven-leaf, and spread it lightly with fine currant, strawberry or
raspberry jelly ; lay the remaining half closely over, pressing it a
little with the rolling pin after the edges are well cemented together;
then mark it into divisions, and bake it from fifteen to twenty
minutes in a moderate oven.
LEMON SANDWICHES,
Substitute for preserve, in the preceding receipt, the lemon cheese-
cake mixture of page 372, with or without the almonds in it.
FANCHONNETTES. (ENTREMETS).
Roll out very thin and square some fine puff paste, lay it on a tin
or copper oven-leaf, and cover it equally to within something less
than an inch of the edge with peach or apricot jam ; roll a second bit
of paste to the same size, and lay it carefully over the other, having
first moistened the edges with beaten egg, or water ; press them
together securely, that the preserve may not escape ; pass a paste-
brush or small bunch of feathers dipped in water over the top. şift
sugar thickly on it, then with the back of a knife, mark the paste
into divisions of uniform size, bake it in a well-heated but not fierce
oven for twenty minutes, or rather more, and cut it while it is
* Almond-paste is sometimes substituted for this.


CHAP. XVIII.]
375
PASTRY.
still hot, where it is marked. The fanchonnettes should be about
three inches in length and two in width. In order to lay the second
crust over the preserve without disturbing it, wind it lightly round
the paste-roller, and in untwisting it, let it fall gently over the other
part.
This is not the form of pastry called by the French fanchonnettes.
Fine puff paste, 1 lb.; apricot or peach jam, 4 to 6 oz. : baked 20
to 25 minutes
JELLY TARTLETS, OR CUSTARDS.
Put four tablespoonsful of fine fruit-jelly into a basin, and stir to
it gradually twelve spoonsful of beaten egg; if the preserve be rich
and sweet, no sugar will be required. Line some pans with paste
rolled very thin, fill them with the custard, and bake them about
ten minutes.*
STRAWBERRY TARTLETS. (Good.)
Take a full half-pint of freshly-gathered strawberries, without the
stalks; first crush, and then mix them with two ounces and a half of
powdered sugar ; stir to them by degrees four well-whisked eggs,
beat the mixture a little, and put it into pattypans lined with fine
paste : they should be only three parts filled. Bake the tartlets from
ten to twelve minutes.
RASPBERRY PUFFS.
Roll out thin some fine puff-paste, cut it in rounds or squares of
equal size, lay some raspberry jam into each, moisten the edges of the
paste, fold and press them together, and bake the puffs from fifteen
to eighteen minutes. Strawberry, or any other jam will serve for
them equally well.
CREAMED TARTLETS.
Line some pattypans with very fine paste, and put into each a layer
of apricot jam; on this pour some thick boiled custard, or the pastry
cream of page 373. Whisk the whites of a couple of eggs to a solid
froth, mix a couple of tablespoonsful of sifted sugar with them, lay
this icing lightly over the tartlets, and bake them in a gentle oven
from twenty to thirty minutes, unless they should be very small,
when less time must be allowed for them.
RAMEKINS A L'UDE, OR SEFTON FANCIES.
Roll out, rather thin, from six to eight ounces of fine cream-crust,
or feuilletuge (see page 345); take nearly or quite half its weight of
* Strawberry or raspberry jelly will answer admirably for these.


376
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. xvi.
grated Parmesan, or something less of dry white English cheese ;
sprinkle it equally over the paste, fold it together, roll it out very
lightly twice, and continue thus until the cheese and crust are well
mixed. Cut the ramekins with a small paste-cutter; wash them with
yolk of egg mixed with a little milk, and bake them about fifteen
minutes. Serve them very hot.
Cream-crust, or feuilletage, 6 oz.; Parmesan, 3 oz.: or English
cheese, 24 oz. : baked 12 to 15 minutes.

Mould for large l'ols-au-vents or Tourtes.
Paste Pincers.


CHAP. XIX.]
377
SOUFFLÉS, OMLETS, &c.
CHAPTER XIX.
Soutiés, Omlets, &c.
SOUFFLÉs.
Tue admirable lightness* and delicacy of a well-made soufflé render
it generally a very favourite dish, and it is now a fashionable one
also. It may be greatly varied in its composition, but in all cases
must be served the very instant it is taken from the oven; and even
in passing to the dining-room it should, if possible, be prevented
from sinking by a heated iron or salamander held above it. A
common soufllé-pan may be purchased for four or five shillings, but
those of silver or plated metal, which are of the form shown at the
conimencement of this chapter, are of course expensive; the part in
which the soufflé is baked is placed within the more ornamental dish
when it is drawn from the oven. A plain, round, cake-inould, with
. This is given to every description of soufflé in the same manner as to Savoy
or sponge-cakes, by mingling gently with the other ingredients the whites of
egys whisked to a solid mass or snow froth,--that is to say, that no portion of
them must remain in a liquid state. For the proper mode of preparing them,
see commencement of the chapter of Cakes : suutlle-puddlings are rendered light
in the same manner, and steamed instead of being boiled.


378
[CHAP. XIX.
MODERN COOKERY.
a strip of writing paper six inches high, placed inside the rim, will
answer on an emergency to bake a soufflé in. The following receipt
will serve as a guide for the proper mode of making it: the process
is always the same whether the principal ingredient be whole rice
boiled very tender in milk and pressed through a sieve, bread-crumbs
soaked as for a pudding and worked through a sieve also, arrow-root,
potato-flour, or aught else of which light puddings in general are
made.
Take from a pint and a half of new milk or of cream sufficient to
mix four ounces of flour of rice to a perfectly smooth batter; put
the remainder into a very clean, well-tinned saucepan or stewpan,
and when it boils, stir the rice briskly to it; let it simmer, keeping
it stirred all the time, for ten minutes, or more should it not be very
thick; then mix well with it two ounces of fresh butter, one and a
half of pounded sugar, and the grated rind of a fine lemon (or let
the sugar which is used for it be well rubbed on the lemon before it
is crushed to powder); in two or three minutes take it from the fire,
and beat quickly and carefully to it by degrees the yolks of six
eggs; whisk the whites to a very firm solid froth, and when the pan
is buttered, and all else quite ready for the oven, stir them gently to
the other ingredients; pour the soufflé immediately into the pan and
place it in a moderate oven, of which keep the door closed for a
quarter of an hour at least. When the soufflé has risen very high,
is of a fine colour, and quite done in the centre, which it will be
in from half to three-quarters of an hour, send it instantly to table.
The exact time for baking it depends so much on the oven that it
cannot be precisely specified. We have known quite a small one not
too much baked in forty-five minutes in an iron oven ; but generally
less time will suffice for them : the heat, however, should always be
moderate.
New milk or cream, 14 pint; flour of rice, 4 oz.; fresh butter,
2 oz.; pounded sugar, 1} oz.; eggs, 6; grain of salt; rind, 1 lemon
30 to 45 minutes.
Obs. 1.- The soufflé may be flavoured with vanilla, orange-flowers,
or aught else that is liked. Chocolate and coffee also may be used
for it with soaked bread : a very strong infusion of the last, and an
ounce or two of the other, melted with a little water, are to be added
to the milk and bread.
Obs. 2.-A soufflé is commonly served in a dinner of ceremony as
a remove of the second-course roast; but a good plan for this, as
for a fondu, is to have it quickly handed round, instead of being
placed upon the table.
LOUISE FRANKS' CITRON SOUFFLÉ.
To obtain the flavour of the citron-rind for this celebrated Swedish
Roufflé, take a lump of sugar which weighs two ounces and a half,
and rub it on the fruit to extract the essence, or should the citron


CHAP. XIX.] SOUFFLÉS, OMLETS, &c.
379
not be sufficiently fresh to yield it by this means, pare it off in the
thinnest possible strips and infuse it by the side of the fire in the
cream of which the soufflé is to be made. Should the first method
be pursued, crush the sugar to powder and dry it a little before it is
added to the other ingredients. Blend very smoothly two ounces
of potato-flour with a quarter of a pint of milk, and pour boiling to
them a pint of good cream; stir the mixture in a large basin or bowl
until it thickens, then throw in a grain of salt, two ounces of fresh
butter just dissolved in a small saucepan, and the sugar which has
been rubbed on the citron; or should the rind have been pared, the
same weight some of which is merely pounded. Add next, by
degrees, the thoroughly whisked yolks of six fresh eggs, or seven
should they be very small. Beat the whites lightly and quickly
until they are sufficiently firm to remain standing in points when
dropped from the whisk; mix them with the other ingredients at
the mouth of the oven, but without beating them; fill the soufflé-
pan less than half full; set it instantly into the oven, which should
be gentle, but not exceedingly slow, close the door immediately, and
do not open it for fifteen or twenty minutes : in from thirty to
forty the soufflé will be ready for table unless the oven should be
very cool: a fierce degree of heat will have a most unfavourable
effect upon it.
Rind of half citron (that of a Seville orange may be substituted
on occasions); sugar, 2} oz.; cream, 1 pint; potato-flour, 2 oz.;
milk, $ pint; butter, 2 oz.; yolks and white of 6 large or of 7 small
eggs : 30 to 40 minutes, or more in very slow oven.
Obs.—The fresh citron would appear to be brought as yet but
very sparingly into the English market, though it may sometimes
be procured of first-rate fruiterers. Nothing can well be finer than
its highly aromatic flavour, which is infinitely superior to that of
any other fruit of its species that we have ever tasted. We have
had delicious preparations made too from the young green citron
when extremely small, of which we may have occasion to speak
elsewhere.
A FONDU, OR CHEESE SOUFFLÉ.
Mix to a smooth batter, with a quarter of a pint of new milk, two
ounces of potato-flour, arrow-root, or tous les mois ; pour boiling to
them three-quarters of a pint more of milk, or of cream in pre-
ference: stir them well together, and then throw in two ounces of
butter cut small. When this is melted, and well-beaten into the
mixture, add the well-whisked yolks of four large or of five small
eggs, half a teaspoonful of salt, something less of cayenne, and three
ounces of lightly-grated cheese, Parmesan or English, or equal parts
of both. Whisk the whites of the eggs to a quite firm and solid
froth; then proceed, as for a soufflé, to mix and bake the fondu
20 minutes.


380
(CUAP. XII.
MODERN COOKERY.
OBSERVATIONS ON OMLETS, FRITTERS, &c.
The composition and nature of a soufflé, as we have shown, are
altogether different, but there is no difficulty in making good omlets,
pancakes, or fritters; and as they may be expeditiously prepared and
served, they are often a very convenient resource when, on short
notice, an addition is required to a dinner. The eggs for all of them
should be well and lightly whisked; the lard for frying batter
should be extremely pure in flavour, and quite hot when the fritters
are dropped in ; the batter itself should be smooth as cream, and it
should be briskly beaten the instant before it is used. All fried
pastes should be perfectly drained from the fat before they are
served, and sent to table promptly when they are ready. Eggs
may be dressed in a multiplicity of ways, but are seldom more
relished in any form than in a well-made and expeditiously served
omlet. This may be plain, or seasoned with minced herbs and a
very little eschalot, when the last is liked, and is then called an
“ Omlette aux fines herbes;” or it may be mixed with minced ham,
or grated cheese; in any case, it should be light, thick, full-tasted,
and fried only on one side ; if turned in the pan, as it frequently is in
England, it will at once be flattened and rendered tough. Should
the slight rawness which is sometimes found in the middle of the
inside, when the omlet is made in the French way, be objected to, a
heated shovel, or a salamander, may be held over it for an instant,
before it is folded on the dish. The pan for frying it should be
quite small; for if it be composed of four or five eggs only, and then
put into a large one, it will necessarily spread over it and be thin,
which would render it more like a pancake than an omlet; the only
partial remedy for this, when a pan of proper size cannot be had, is
to raise the handle of it high, and to keep the opposite side close
down to the fire, which will confine the eggs into a smaller space.
No gravy should be poured into the dish with it, and indeed, if
properly made, it will require none. Lard is preferable to butter for
frying batter, as it renders it lighter; but it must not be used for
omlets.
A COMMON OMLET.
Six eggs are sufficient for an omlet of moderate size. Let them be
very fresh; break them singly and carefully; clear them in the way
we have already pointed out in the introduction to boiled puddings,
or when they are sufficiently whisked pour them through a sieve,
and resume the beating until they are very light. Add to them
from half to a whole teaspoonful of salt, and a seasoning of pepper.
Dissolve in a small frying-pan a couple of ounces of butter, pour in
the eggs, and as soon as the omlet is well risen and firm throughout,
slide it on to a hot dish, fold it together like a turnover, and serve it
immediately; from five to seven minutes will fry it


CLAP. XIX.]
381
SOUFFLES, OMLETS, ETC.
For other varieties of the omlet, see the observations which pre-
cede this.
Eggs, 5; butter, 2 oz.; seasoning of salt and pepper : 5 to 7
minutes
AN OMLETTE SOUFFLÉE.
SECOND COURSE REMOVE OF ROAST.
Separate, as they are broken, the whites from the yolks of six fine
fresh eggs; beat these last thoroughly, first by themselves and then
with four tablespoonsful of dry, white sifted sugar, and the rind of
half a lemon grated on a fine grater. Whisk the whites to a solid
froth, and just before the omlet is poured into the pan, mix them
well, but lightly, with the yolks. Put four ounces of fresh butter
into a very small delicately clean omlet or frying pan, and as soon as
it is all dissolved, add the eggs and stir them round that they may
absorb it entirely. When the under side is just set, turn the omlei
into a well-buttered dish, and send it to a tolerably brisk oven.
From five to ten minutes will bake it; and it must be served the
instant it is taken out; carried, indeed, as quickly as possible to table
from the oven. It will have risen to a great lieight, but will sink
and become heavy in a very short space of tinc: if sugar be sifted
over it, let it be done with the utmost expedition.
Eggs, 6; sugar, 4 tablespoonsful; rind, 1 lemon; butter, 4 oz. :
omlet baked, 5 to 10 minutes.
Obs.—This omlette may be served on a layer of apricot-marmalade,
which must be spread over the dish in which it is to be baked, and
sent to table before the omlette is turned into it.
PLAIX COMMON FRITTERS.
Mix with three well-whisked eggs a quarter of a pint of milk, and
strain them through a fine sieve; add them gradually to three large
tablespoonsful of flour, and thin the batter with as much more milk
as will bring it to the consistence of cream; beat it up thoroughly at
the moment of using it, that the fritters may be light. Drop it
in small portions from a spouted jug or basin into boiling lard ;
when lightly coloured on one side, turn the fritters, drain them well
from the lard as they are lifted out, and serve them very quickly.
They are eaten generally with fine sugar, and orange or lemon juice:
the first of these may be sifted quickly over them after they are
dished, and the oranges or lemons halved or quartered, and sent to
table with them. The lard used for frying them should be fresh and
pure-flavoured : it renders them more crisp and lighit than butter,
and is, therefore, better suited to the purpose. These fritters may be
agreeably varied by mingling with the batter just before it is used
two or three ounces of well cleaned and well dried currants, or three
* Served also as an entreniela.


382
MODERN COOKERY
[CHAP. XIX.
or four apples of a good boiling kind not very finely minced.
Double the quantity of batter will be required for a large dish.
Eggs, 3; tlour, 3 tablespoonsful; milk, 1 to 4 pint.
PANCAKES,
These may be made with the same batter as fritters, if it be suffi-
ciently thinned with an additional egg or two, or a little milk or
cream, to spread quickly over the pan: to fry them well, this ought
to be small. When the batter is ready, heat the pan over a clear
fire and rub it with butter in every part, then pour in sufficient
batter to spread over it entirely, and let the pancake be very thin:
in this case it will require no turning, but otherwise it must be
tossed over with a sudden jerk of the pan, in which the cook who is
not somewhat expert will not always succeed ; therefore the safer
plan is to make them so thin that they will not require this. Keep
them hot before the fire or in the stove-oven until a sufficient
number are ready to send to table, then proceed with a second
supply, as they should always be quickly served. Either pile them
one on the other with sugar strewed between, or spread quickly over
them, as they are done, some apricot or other good preserve, and roll
them up: in the latter case, they may be neatly divided and dished
in a circle. Clotted cream is sometimes sent to table with them. A
richer kind of pancake may be made with a pint of cream, or of
cream and new milk mixed, five eggs or their yolks only, a couple of
ounces of flour, a little pounded cinnamon or lemon-rind rasped on
sugar and scraped into them, with two ounces more of pounded
sugar, and two ounces of clarified butter : a few ratifias rolled to
powder may be added at pleasure, or three or four macaroons.
From 4 to 5 minutes.
FRITTERS OF CAKE AND PUDDING.
Cut plain pound, or rice cake, or rich seed cake, into small square
slices half an inch thick ; trim away the crust, fry them slowly a
light brown in a small quantity of fresh butter, and spread over
them when done a layer of apricot-jam, or of any other preserve,
and serve them immediately. These fritters are improved by being
moistened with a little good cream before they are fried: they must
then be slightly floured. Cold plum-pudding sliced down as thick
as the cake, and divided into portions of equal size and good form,
then dipped into French or English batter and gently fried, will also
make an agreeable variety of fritter. Orange marmalade and Deyon-
shire cream may be served in separate layers on the seed cake fritters.
The whole of the above may be cut of uniform size and shaped with
a round cake-cutter.


CHAP. XIX. ]
383
SOUFFLÉS, OMLETS, ETC.
MINCEMEAT FRITTERS.
With half a pound of mincemeat mix twc ounces of fine bread-
crumbs (or a tablespoonful of flour), two eggs well beaten, and the
strained juice of half a small lemon. Mix these well, and drop the
fritters with a dessertspoon into plenty of very pure lard or fresh
butter; fry them from seven to eighit minutes, drain them on a
napkin or on white blotting paper, and send them very hot to table:
they should be quite small.
Nincemeat, £ Îb.; bread-crumbs, 2 oz. (or flour, 1 tablespoonful);
eges, 2 ; juice of lemon : 7 to 8 minutes.
VENETIAN FRITTERS.
(Very good.)
Wash and drain three ounces of whole rice, put it into a full pint
of cold milk, and bring it very slowly to boil ; stir it often, and let it
simmer gently until it is quite thick and dry. When about three
parts done, add to it two ounces of pounded sugar, and one of fresh
butter, a grain of salt, and the grated rind of half a small lemon.
Let it cool in the saucepan, and when only just warm, mix with it
thoroughly three ounces of currants, four of apples chopped fine, a
teaspoonful of flour, and three large or four small well-beaten eggs.
Drop the mixture in small fritters, fry them in butter from five to
seven minutes, and let them become quite firm on one side before
they are turned: do this with a slice. Drain them as they are taken
up, and sift white sugar over them after they are dished.
Whole rice, 3 oz.; milk, 1 pint; sugar, 2 oz.; butter, 1 oz.;
grated rind of } lemon; currants, 3 oz.; minced apples, 4 oz.; flour,
1 teaspoonful ; a little salt; eggs, 3 large, or 4 small: 5 to 7
minutes.
RHUBARB FRITTERS.
The rhubarb for these should be of a good sort, quickly grown,
and tender. Pare, cut it into equal lengths, and throw it into the
French batter of page 130; with a fork lift the stalks separately, and
put them into a pan of boiling lard or butter: in from five to six
minutes they will be done. Drain them well and dish them on a
napkin, or pile them high without one, and strew sifted sugar
plentifully over them : they should be of a very light brown, and
quite dry and crisp. The young stalks look well when left the
length the dish in which they are served, and only slightly
encrusted with the batter, through which they should be merely
drawn.
5 to 6 minutes


384
[CHAP. Xix.
MODERN COOKERY.
APPLE, PEACII, APRICOT, OR ORANGE FRITTERS.
Pare and core without dividing the apples, slice them in rounds
the full size of the fruit, dip them into the same batter as that
directed for the preceding fritters, fry them a pale brown, and let
them be very dry. Serve them heaped high upon a folded napkin,
and strew sifted sugar over them. After having stripped the outer
rind from the oranges, remove carefully the white inner skin, and in
slicing them take out the pips; then dip them into the batter and
proceed as for the apple fritters. The peaches and apricots should be
merely skinned, halved, and stoned before they are drawn through
the batter, unless they should not be fully ripe, when they must first
be stewed tender in a thin syrup.
8 to 12 minutes
BRIOCILE FRITTERS.
The brioche-paste, * when good, makes very superior cannelons
and fritters. it is, we should say, better in this form than in that of
the bun or cake, in which it is seen so commonly abroad. Make it,
for the fritters, into very small balls; roll them quite thin, put a tea-
spoonful or less of rich preserve into each, moisten the edges and fold
the paste together securely, or with a smull tin shape cut as many
rounds of the brioche as are wanted, place some preserve in the
centre of one half of these, moisten the edges, lay the remainder
lightly over them, press them carefully together and restore them to
a good form with the tin-cutter, by trimming them with it to their
original size; glide them gently into a pan of boiling lard, and fry
them from four and a half to five minutes. Serve them very hot,
crisp, and dry, piled on a folded napkin. The cannelons are made
like those of paste, and are very good. They are sometimes filled
with lemon-cheesecake mixture, or with Madame Werner's (see
Chapter XVIII.)
Fritters, 4} to 5 minutes; cannelons, 5 to 6 minutes.
POTATO FRITTERS. (ENTREMETS.)
The same mixture as for potato puddings, Chapter XXI., if
dropped in small portions into boiling butter, and fried until brown
on both sides, will make potato:fritters. Half the proportion of in-
gredients will be quite sufficient for a dish of these.
LEMON FRITTERS. (ENTREMETS.)
Mix with six ounces of very fine bread-crumbs four of beef suet
minced as small as possible, four ounces of pounded sugar, a small
tablespoonful of flour, four whole eggs well and lightly whisked, and
the grated rind of one large or of two small lemons, with half or
the whole of the juice, at choice ; but before this last is stirred in,
* For this see page 317.


CHAP. Xix.) SOUFFLÉS, OMLETS, &c.
385
add a spoonful or two of milk or cream if needed. Fry the mix -
ture in small fritters for five or six minutes.
CANNELONS. (ENTREMETS.)
Roll out very thin and evenly
some fine puff-paste into a long
strip of from three to four inches
wide, moisten the surface with a
feather dipped in white of egg,
and cut it into bands of nearly
two inches wide ; lay some apricot
or peach marmalade equally along
these, and fold the paste twice
over it, close the ends carefully,
and when all are ready, slide them gently into a pan of boiling
lard;* as soon as they begin to brown, raise the pan from the
fire that they may not take too much colour before the paste is
done quite through. Five minutes will fry them. Drain them well,
and dry them on a soft cloth before the fire; dish them on a napkin,
and place one layer crossing another, or merely pile them high in the
centre. If well made, and served of a light brown and very dry,
these cannelons are excellent : when lard is objected to butter may be
used instead, but the paste will then be somewhat less light. Only
lard of the purest quality will answer for the purpose.
5 minutes.
CANNELONS OF BRIOCHE PASTE. (ENTREMETS.)
Proceed exactly as for the cannelons above, substituting the
brioche for the puff-paste, and rolling it as thin as possible, as it
swells very much in the pan. Fine sugаr may be sifted over these
after they are dried and dished.
4 or 5 minutes.
CROQUETTES OF RICE. (ENTREMETS.)
Wipe very clean, in a dry
cloth, seven ounces of rice,
put it into a clean stew-pan,
and pour on it a quart of
new milk; let it swell gently
by the side of the fire, and
stir it often that it may not
stick to the pan, nor burn ;
when it is about half done,
stir to it five ounces of
pounded sugar, and six bit-
ter almonds beaten extremely
Croquettes
• Cannelons may be either baked or fried: if sent to the oven, they may first
be glazed with white of egg and sugar.


сс


386
[CHAP. XIX.
MODERN COOKERY.
fine : the thin rind of halt a fresh lemon may be added in the
first instance. The rice must be simmered until it is soft, and
very thick and dry; it should then be spread on a dish, and left
until cold, when it is to be rolled into small balls, which must be
dipped into beaten egg, and then covered in every part with the
finest bread-crumbs. When all are ready, fry them a light brown in
fresh butter, and dry them well before the fire, upon a sieve reversed
and covered with a very soft cloth, or with a sheet of white blotting
paper. Pile them in a hot dish, and send them to table quickly.
Rice, 7 oz.; milk, 1 quart; rind of lemon : 1hour. Sugar, 5 oz.
bitter almonds, 6 : 40 to 60 minutes, or more. Fried, 5 to 7 minutes.
FINER CROQUETTES OF RICE. (ENTREMETS.)
Swell the rice in thin cream, or in new milk strongly flavoured
with vanilla or cocoa-nut; add the same ingredients as in the fore-
going receipt, and when the rice is cold, form it into balls, and with
the thumb of the right hand hollow them sufficiently to admit in the
centre a small portion of peach jam, or of apricot marmalade; close
the rice well over it; egg, crumb, and fry the croquettes as usual.
As, from the difference of quality, the same proportions of rice and
milk will not always produce the same effect, the cook must use her
discretion in adding, should it be needed, sufficient liquid to soften
the rice perfectly : but she must bear in mind that if not boiled ex-
tremely thick and dry, it will be difficult to make it into cro-
quettes.*
SAVOURY CROQUETTES OF RICE. (ENTRÉE.)
These are made with the same preparation as the casserole of rice
of Chapter XVIII., but it must be boiled very dry, and left to
become quite cold before it is used. A few spoonsful of rich white
sauce stirred into it when it is nearly tender, will improve it much.
Form and hollow the croquettes as directed in the last receipt; fill
them with a small portion of minced fowl, partridge, or pheasant in
a thick sauce, or with a stewed oyster or two cut in quarters; close
the rice perfectly over them; egg, and crumb the croquettes, fry and
serve them garnished with crisped parsley. French cooks mix
sometimes a little grated Parmesan cheese with the rice at the moment
it is taken from the fire, and roll the croquettes in more after they
are egged; they press this on and dip them again in egg, and then
into the crumbs. Raise the pan high above the fire when the cro-
* We must repeat here what we have elsewhere stated as the result of many
trials of it, that good rice will absorb and become tender with three times its own
bulk or measure of liquid. Thus, an exact half pint (or half pound) will require
a pint and a half, with an extremely gentle degree of heat, to convert it into a
thoroughly soft but firm mass; which would, perhaps, be rather too dry for
croquett:8. A pint of milk to four ounces of rice, if well managed, would answer
better.


CHAP. XIX.]
387
SOUFFLÉS, OMLETS, &c.
quettes are lightly browned, that they may heat through ; then
heighten the colour, and lift them out immediately.
RISSOLES. (ENTRÉE.)
This is the French name for small fried pastry of various forms,
filled with meat or fish previously cooked ; they may be made with
brioche, or with light puff-paste, either of which must be rolled ex-
tremely thin. Cut it with a small round cutter fluted or plain ; put
a little rich mince, or good pounded meat, in the centre, and moisten
the edges, and press them securely together that they may not burst
open in the frying. The rissoles may be formed like small patties,
by laying a second round of paste over the meat, or like cannelons ;
they may, likewise, be brushed with egg, and sprinkled with ver-
micelli, broken small, or with fine crumbs. They are sometimes
made in the form of croquettes, the paste being gathered round the
meat, which must form a ball.*
In frying them, adopt the same plan as for the croquettes, raising
the pan as soon as the paste is lightly coloured. Serve all these
fried dishes well drained, and on a napkin.
From 5 to 7 minutes, or less.
VERY SAVOURY ENGLISH RISSOLES. (ENTRÉE.)
Make the forcemeat No. 1, Chapter VIII., sufficiently firm with
unbeaten yolk of egg, to roll rather thin on a well-floured board;
cut it into very small rounds, put a little pounded chicken in the
centre of one half, moistening the edges with water, or white of egg,
lay the remaining rounds over these, close them securely, and fry
them in butter a fine light brown; drain and dry them well, and
heap them in the middle of a hot dish, upon a napkin folded flat :
these rissoles may be egged and crumbed before they are fried.
SMALL FRIED BREAD PATTIES, OR CROUSTADES OF VARIOUS
KINDS.
These may
be either sweet or savoury, and many of them may be
50 promptly prepared, that they offer a ready resource when an
extra dish is unexpectedly required. They should be carefully fried
very crisp, and of a fine equal gold colour, either in clarified marrow,
for which we give our own receipt, or in really good butter.
DRESDEN PATTIES, OR CROUSTADES.
(Very delicate.)
Pare the crust neatly from one or two French rolls, slice off the
ends, and divide the remainder into as many patties as the size of the
rolls will allow ; hollow them in the centre, dip them into milk or
* If our space will permit, more minute directions for these, and other small
dishes of the kind, shall be given in the chapter of foreign cookery.


388
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. XIX.
thin cream, and lay them on a drainer over a dish ; pour a spoonful
or two more of milk over them at intervals, but not sufficient to
cause them to break; brush them with egg, rasp the crust of the
rolls over them, fry and drain them well, fill them with a good
mince, or with stewed mushrooms or oysters, and serve them very
hot upon a napkin ; they may be filled for the second course with
warm apricot marmalade, cherry-jam, or other good preserve.
This receipt came to us direct from Dresden, and on testing
it we found it answer excellently, and inserted it in an earlier
edition of the present work. We name this simply because it has
been appropriated, with many other of our receipts, by a contem-
porary writer without a word of acknowledgment.
TO PREPARE BEEF MARROW FOR FRYING CROUSTADES,
SAVOURY TOASTS, &c
At a season when butter of pure flavour is often procured with
difficulty, beef-marrow, carefully clarified, is a valuable substitute
for it; and, as it is abundantly contained in the joints which are in
constant request for soup-making, it is of slight comparative cost
in a well managed kitchen. It is often thrown into the stock-
pot by careless or indolent cooks, instead of being rendered available
for the many purposes to which it is admirably adapted. Take it
from the bones as fresh as possible, put it into a white jar, and melt
it with a very gentle degree of heat at the mouth of the oven, or by
the side of the stove, taking all precaution to prevent its being
smoked or discoloured; strain it off, through a very fine sieve or
muslin, into a clean pan or pans, and set it aside for use. It will be
entirely flavourless if prepared with due care and attention; but, if
dissolved with too great a degree of heat, it will acquire the taste
almost of dripping. A small quantity of fine salt may be sprinkled
into the pan with it when it is used for frying.
SMALL CROUSTADES, OR BREAD PATTIES, DRESSED IN MARROW.
(Author's Receipt.).
Cut very evenly, from a firm stale loaf, slices nearly an inch and
a half thick, and with a plain or fluted paste-cutter of between two
and three inches wide press out the number of patties required,
loosening them gently from the tin, to prevent their breaking ; then,
with a plain cutter, scarcely more than half the size, mark out the
space which is afterwards to be hollowed from it. Melt some clari-
fied beef-marrow in a small saucepan or frying-pan, and, when it
begins to boil, put in the patties, and fry them gently until they are
equally coloured of a pale golden brown. In lifting them from the
pan, let the marrow (or butter) drain well from them; take out the
counds which have been marked on the tops, and scoop out part of
the inside crumb, but leave them thick enough to contain securely
the gravy of the preparation put into them. Fill them with any
good patty-meat, and serve them very hot on a napkin.


CHAP. XIX.]
389
SOUFFLÉS, OMLETS, &c.
Obs. These croustades are equally good if dipped into cla-ified
butter or marrow, and baked in a tolerably quick oven. It is well,
in either case, to place them on a warm sheet of double white blot-
ting-paper while they are being filled, as it will absorb the super-
fluous fat. A rich mince, with a thick, well-adhering sauce, either
of mutton and mushrooms, or oysters, or with fine herbs and an
eschalot or two; or of venison, or hare, or partridges, may be ap-
propriately used for them.
SMALL CROUSTADES A LA BONNE MAMAN.
(The Grandmama's Patties.)
Prepare the croustades as above, or use for them French rolls of
very even shape, cut in thick equal slices. If quite round, the crust
may be left on ; mark each slice with a small cutter in the centre,
dip the croustades into butter or marrow, fry them lightly, or bake
them without permitting them to become very hard ; empty, and
then fill them ; dish them without a napkin, and pour some good
brown gravy round, but not over them.
Obs.-From being cooked without butter, these and the preceding
patties are adapted to a Jewish table.
CURRIED TOASTS WITH ANCHOVIES.
Fry lightly, in good butter, clarified marrow, or very pure olive
oil, some slices of bread, free from crust, of about half an inch thick,
and two inches and a half square; lift them on to a dish, and spread
a not very thick layer of Captain White's currie-paste on the top;
place them in a gentle oven for three or four minutes, then lay two
or three fillets of anchovies on each, replace them in the oven for a
couple of minutes, and send them immediately to table. Their pun-
gency may be heightened by the addition of cayenne pepper, when a
very hot preparation is liked.
Obs.-We have spoken but slightly in our chapter of curries of
Captain White's currie-paste, though for many years we have had it
used in preference to any other, and always found it excellent Lat-
terly, however, it has been obtained with rather less facility than
when attention was first attracted to it. The last which we procured
directed, on the label of the jar, that orders for it should be sent per
post to 83, Copenhagen Street, Islington. It may, however, be
procured without doubt from any good purveyor of sauces and other
condiments. It is sold in jars of all sizes, the price of the smallest
being one-and-sixpence. We certainly think it much superior. to
any of the others which we have tested, its flavour being peculiarly
agreeable.
TO FILLET ANCHOVIES,
Drain them well from the pickle, take off the heads and fins, lay
them separately on a plate, and scrape off the skin entirely; then


390
MODERN COOKERY.
CHAP. XIX
place them on a clean dish and with a sharp-edged knife raise the
Hesh on either side of the back-bone, passing it from the tail to the
shoulders, and keeping it nearly flat as it is worked along. Divide
each side (or fillet) in two, and use them as directed for the preceding
toasts or other purposes. They make excellent simple sandwiches
with slices of bread and butter only ; but very superior ones when
they are potted or made into anchovy butter.
SAVOURY TOASTS.
Cut some slices of bread free from crust, about half an inch thick.
and two inches and a half square; butter the tops thickly, spread a
little mustard on them, and then cover them with a deep layer of
grated cheese and of ham seasoned rather highly with cayenne; fry
them in good butter, but do not turn them in the pan; litt them out,
and place them in a Dutch oven for three or minutes to dissolve the
cheese : serve them very hot.
To 4 tablespoonsful of grated English cheese, an equal portion of
very finely minced, or grated ham; but of Parmesan, or Gruyère, 6
tablespoonsful. Seasoning of mustard and cayenne.
Obs. These toasts, for which we give the original receipt un-
altered, may be served in the cheese-course of a dinner. Such mere
“ relishes as they are called, do not seem to us demand much of
our space, or many of them which are very easy of preparation might
be inserted here : a good cook, however, will easily supply them at
slight expense. Truffles minced, seasoned, and stewed tender in
butter with an eschalot or two, may be served on fried toasts or
croûtons and will generally be liked.
TO CHOOSE MACCARONI AND OTHER ITALIAN PASTES.
The Naples maccaroni, of which the pipes are large, and somewhat
thin, should be selected for the table in preference to the Genoa,
which is less in size, but more substantial, and better suited to the
formation of the various fanciful timbules* for wbich it is usually
chosen. We have inserted here no receipts for these, because unless
very skilfully prepared they are sure to fail, and they are not in
much request in this country, unless it be at the tables of the
aristocracy, for which they are prepared by efficient cooks. Of the
ribbon maccaroni (or luzanges) we have given particulars in the
pages which follow. The macaroncin, though not much larger than
a straw, requires much boiling for its size, to render it soit. The
celery-maccaroni is made very large and of an ornamental form, but
in short lengths. It is used by “professed " cooks as a sort of crust
or case for quenelle-forcemeat, or other expensive preparations of the
* For an explanation of the term timbale, the reader is referred to the glossary
at the commencement of this volume.


CHAP. XIX.]
391
SOUFFLÉS, OMLETS, ETC.
same nature. The ring or cut maccaroni is another form given to
the Italian paste: it may be had at almost any good foreign ware-
house.
All these pastes should be of a yellowish tint (by no means white
as one sees them when they are of inferior quality); they should
also be quite fresh, as they contract a most unpleasant flavour from
being too long stored. The Naples vermicelli, which is much larger
than any other, may be dressed like inaccaroni : by many persons it
is also preferred to the smaller varieties for serving in soup.
TO BOIL MACCARONI.
We have always found the continental mode of dressing maccaroni
the best. English cooks sometimes soak it in milk and water for an
hour or more, before it is boiled, that the pipes may be swollen to
the utmost, but this is apt to render it pulpy, though its appearance
may be improved by it. "Drop it lightly, and by degrees, into a large
pan of fast-boiling water, into which a little salt, and a bit of butter
the size of a walnut, have previously been thrown, and of which the
boiling should not be stopped by the addition of the maccaroni. In
about three-quarters of an hour the Naples maccaroni will be suffi-
ciently tender : every kind should always be perfectly cooked, for
otherwise it will prove very indigestible, but the pipes of that
commonly served should remain entire. Pour it into a large cul-
lender, and drain the water well from it. It should be very softly
boiled after the first minute or two.
Time of boiling :-Naples maccaroni, about hour; Genoa, nearly
or quite 1 hour; macaroncini, 20 to 25 minutes; cut maccaroni, 10
minutes; Naples vermicelli (in water), about 20 minutes ; longer in
soup, or milk.
RIBBON MACCARONI.
This kind of maccaroni, though more delicate in flavour and much
more quickly boiled than the pipe maccaroni, is far less frequently
seen at English tables; yet it is extremely good in many simple forms
and very wholesome, therefore well suited to invalids and children
as well as to persons in health. Drop it gradually into plenty of
boiling water, and turn it over occasionally that it may be equally
done. Drain it thoroughly when it is perfectly tender, and serve it
quickly either quite plain, to be eaten instead of vegetables or rice;
or with a compote of fruit; or with sugar and cinnamon, or lemon-
* The best ribbon-maccaroni which we have ever had, was from Mr. Cobhett's,
18, Pall Mall. It is rather higher in price than the pipe maccaroni but swells
so much in the boiling that a large quantity of it is not required for a dish.
IV6
ought to add that Mr. Cobbett's is not a professedly cheap house, but that all he
supplies is of excellent quality.


CHAP. XIX.]
393
SOUFFLÉS, OMLETS, ETC.
MACCARONI A LA REINE.
This is a very excellent and delicate mode of dressir.g maccaroni.
Boil eight ounces in the usual way, and by the time it is sufficiently
tender, dissolve gently ten ounces of any rich, well flavoured white
cheese in full three-quarters of a pint of good cream; add a little
salt, a rather full seasoning of cayenne, from half to a whole selt-
spoonful of pounded mace, and a couple of ounces of sweet fresh
butter. The cheese should, in the first instance, be sliced very
thin, and taken quite free of the hard part adjoining the rind; it
should be stirred in the cream without intermission until it is
entirely dissolved, and the whole is perfectly smooth: the maccaroni,
previously well drained, may then be tossed gently in it, or after it
is dished, the cheese may be poured equally over the maccaroni.
The whole, in either case, may be thickly covered before it is sent to
table, with fine crumbs of bread fried of a pale gold colour, and
dried perfectly, either before the fire or in an oven, when such an
addition is considered an improvement. As a matter of precaution,
it is better to boil the cream before the cheese is melted in it; rich
white sauce, or béchamel, made not very thick, with an additional
ounce or two of butter, may be used to vary and enrich this prepa-
ration. If Parmesan cheese be used for it, it must of course be
grated ; but, as we have said before, it will not easily blend with the
other ingredients so as to be smooth. A portion of Stilton, free
from the blue mould, would have a good effect in the present receipt.
Ilalf the quantity may be served.
Maccaroni, 1 lb. ; cheese, 10 oz.; good cream, 1 pint (or rich white
sauce); butter, 2 oz. (or more); little salt, fine cayenne, and mace.
SEMOULINA AND POLENTA A L'ITALIENNE. (GOOD.)
(To serve instead of Maccaroni.)
Throw into a quart of milk, when it is fast boiling,
half a teaspoonful of salt, and then shake lightly into it
five ounces of the best semoulina ; stir the milk as this is
added, and continue to do so from eight to ten minutes,
letting the mixture boil gently during the time. It
should be very thick, and great care must be taken to
prevent its sticking to the saucepan, which should be
placed over a clear fire on a bar or trivet, but not upon
the coals. Pour the semoulina, when it is done, into a
basin, or a plain mould which it will not fill by an inch
or two, and let it remain some hours in a cool place, that
it may become perfectly cold; it will then turn out quite
solid, and like a pudding in appearance. Cut it with a
large, sharp carving-knife, or a bit of thin wire, into
half-inch slices; wash the basin into which it was poured
at first, and butter it well; grate from six to eight ounces
of good chcese (Parmesan, or any other), and mix with it
Maize.


394
[CHAP. XIX
MODERN COOKERY.
a half-teaspoonful of cayenne, and twice as much pounded mace ;
clarify from two to three ounces of fresh butter, and put a small
quantity into the basin, strew in a little of the cheese, and then lay in
the first slice of the semoulina, on this put a thick layer of the cheese,
moisten it with some drops of butter, and place the second slice upon
it; then more cheese and butter, and continue thus until all the se-
moulina is replaced in the basin; put plenty of cheese upon the top, add
the remainder of the clarified butter, and bake the mixture for about
half an hour in a gentle oven. It should be of a fine golden colour
when served. Turn it carefully into a dish, and send it instantly to
table. A little rich brown gravy poured round might, to some
tastes, improve it, but it is excellent without, and may be substituted
for maccaroni, which it much resembles in flavour. It may be en-
riched by adding butter to the milk, or by mixing with it a portion
of cream; and it may be browned in a Dutch oven, when no other is
in use.
In Italy the flour of Indian corn, which is much grown there, and
eaten by all ranks of people, is used for this dish ; but the semoulina
is perhaps rather better suited to English taste and habits of diet,
from being somewhat lighter and more delicate. The maize-flour
imported from Italy is sold at the foreign warehouses here under the
name of polenta,* though that properly speaking is, we believe, a
boiled or stewed preparation of it, which forms the most common food
of the poorer classes of the inhabitants of many of the Italian
states. It seems to us superior in quality to the Indian corn flour
grown in America.
New milk (or milk mixed with cream), 1 quart; salt, large į tea-
spoonful; semoulina, 5 oz.: 10 minutes. Grated cheese, 6 to 8 oz.
cayenne, 1 teaspoonful; mace, 1 small teaspoonful; butter, 2 to 3 oz.
baked 1 hour, gentle oven.
Obs.-A plain mould can be used instead of the basin.
FOR VARIOUS MODES OF DRESSING EGGS, SEE CHAPTER XXII.
This was vended at a sufficiently high price in this country before the maize
meal was so largely imported here from America.


CHAP. xx.]
395
BOILED PUDDINGS.
CHAPTER XX.
Boiled Puddings.

GENERAL DIRECTIONS.
ALL the ingredients for puddings should
be fresh and of good quality. It is a
false economy to use for them such as
have been too long stored, as the slightest
degree of mustiness or taint in any one
of the articles of which they are com-
posed will spoil all that are combined
with it. Eggs should always be broken
Pudding Mould
separately into a cup before they are
thrown together in the same basin, as a single very bad one will
occasion the loss of many when this precaution is neglected. They
should also be cleared from the specks with scrupulous attention,
either with the point of a small three-pronged fork while they are
in the cup, or by straining the whole through a fine hair-sieve after
they are beaten. The perfect sweetness of suet and milk should be
especially attended to before they are mixed into a pudding, as
nothing can be more offensive than the first when it is over-kept, nor
worse in its effect than the curdling of the milk, which is the certain
result of its being ever so slightly soured


396
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. XX.
Currants should be cleaned, and raisins stoned with exceeding care;
almonds and spices very finely pounded, and the rinds of oranges or
lemons rasped or grated lightly off, that the bitter part of the skin
may be avoided, when they are used for this, or for any other class of
dishes; if pared, they should be cut as thin as possible.
Custard puddings to have a gond appearance, must be simmered
only but without ceasing; for if boiled in a quick and careless
manner, the surface instead of being smooth and velvety, will be full
of holes, or honey-combed, as it is called, and the whey will flow
from it and mingle with the sauce. A thickly-buttered sheet of
writing-paper should be laid between the custard mixture and the
cloth before it is tied over, or the cover of the mould is closed upon
it; and the mould itself or the basin in which it is boiled, and which
should always be quite full, must likewise be well buttered; and
after it is lifted from the water the pudding should be left in it for
quite five minutes before it is dished, to prevent its breaking or
spreading about.
Batter is much lighter when boiled in a cloth, and allowed full
room to swell, than when confined in a mould: it should be well
beaten the instant before it is poured into it, and put into the water
immediately after it is securely tied. The cloth should be moist and
thickly floured, and the pudding should be sent to table as expe-
ditiously as possible after it is done, as it will quickly become heavy
This applies equally to all puddings made with paste, which are ren-
dered uneatable by any delay in serving them after they are ready:
they should be opened a little at the top as soon as they are taken
from the boiler or stewpan to permit the escape of the steam from
within.
Plum-puddings, which it is customary to boil in moulds, are both
lighter and less dry, when closely tied in stout cloths well buttered
and floured, especially when they are made in part with bread; but
when this is done, care should be taken not to allow them to burn to
the bottom of the pan in which they are cooked ; and it is a good
plan to lay a plate or dish under them, by way of precaution against
this mischance; it will not then so much matter whether they be
kept floating or not. It is thought better to mix these entirely (ex-
cept the liquid portion of them) the day before they are boiled, and
it is perhaps an advantage when they are of large size to do so, but
it is not really necessary for small or common ones
A very little salt improves all sweet puddings, by taking off the
insipidity, and bringing out the full flavour of the other ingredients,
but its presence should not be in the slightest degree perceptible.
When brandy, wine, or lemon-juice is added to them it should be
stirred in briskly, and by degrees, quite at last, as it would be likely
otherwise to curdle the milk or eggs
Many persons prefer their puddings steamed ; but when this is not
done, they should be dropped into plenty of boiling water, and be
kept well covered with it until they are ready to serve ; and the


CHAP XX.]
397
BOILED PUDDINGS.
boiling should never be allowed to cease for an instant, for they soon
become heavy if it be interrupted.
Pudding and dumpling cloths should not only be laid into plenty
of water as soon as they are taken off, and well washed afterwards
but it is essential to their perfect sweetness that they should be weli
and quickly dried (in the open air if possible), then folded and kept
in a clean drawer.
TO CLEAN CURRANTS FOR PUDDINGS OR CAKES.
Put them into a cullender, strew a handful of flour over them, and
rub them gently with the hands to separate the lumps, and to detach
the stalks ; work them round in the cullender, and shake it well,
when the small stalks and stones will fall through it. Next pour
plenty of cold water over the currants, drain and spread them on a
soft cloth, press it over them to absorb the moisture, and then lay
them on a clean oven-tin, or a large dish, and dry them very
gradually (or they will become hard), either in a cool oven or before
the fire, taking care in the latter case that they are not placed
sufficiently near it for the ashes to fall amongst them.
When they
are perfectly dry, clear them entirely from the remaining stalks, and
from every stone that may be amongst them. The best mode of de-
tecting these is to lay the fruit at the far end of a large white dish, or
sheet of paper, and to pass it lightly, and in very small portions,
with the fingers, towards oneself, examining it closely as this is
done.
TO STEAM A PUDDING IN A COMMON STEWPAN OR SAUCEPAN.
Butter and fill the mould or basin as usual ; tie over it, first, 1
well-buttered paper, and then a thin floured cloth or muslin, which
should be quite small ; gather up and tie the corners, and be careful
that no part of it, or of the paper, reaches to the water ; pour in from
two to three inches depth of this, according to the height of the
mould, and when it boils put in the pudding, and press the cover
of the stewpan closely on; then boil it gently without ceasing until it
is done. This is the safer method of boiling all puddings made with
polenta, or with the American flour of maize; as well as many others
of the custard kind, which are easily spoiled by the admission of
water to them. As the evaporation diminishes that in the saucepan,
more, ready-boiling, must be added if necessary; and be poured
carefully down the side of the pan without touching the pudding.
TO MIX BATTER FOR PUDDINGS,
Put the flour and salt into a bowl, and stir them together; whisk
the eggs thoroughly, strain them through a fine hair-sieve, and add
them very gradually to the flour; for if too much liquid be poured to
it at once it will be full of lumps, and it is easy with care to keep the


398
[CHAP. xx.
MODERN COOKERY.
batter perfectly smooth. Beat it well and lightly with the back of a
strong wooden spoon, and after the eggs are added thin it with milk
to a proper consistence. The whites of the eggs beaten separately to
a solid froth, and stirred gently into the mixture the instant before it
is tied up for boiling, or before it is put into the oven to be baked,
will render it remarkably light. When fruit is added to the batter,
it must be made thicker than when it is served plain, or it will sink
to the bottom of the pudding. Batter should never stick to the knife
when it is sent to table: it will do this both when a sufficient number
of eggs are not mixed with it, and when it is not enough cooked
About four eggs to the half pound of flour will make it firm enough
to cut smoothly
SUET-CRUST, FOR MEAT OR FRUIT PUDDINGS.
Clear off the skin from some fresh beef kidney-suet, hold it firmly
with a fork, and with a sharp knife slice it thin, free it entirely from
fibre, and mince it very fine : six ounces thus prepared will be found
quite sufficient for a pound of flour. Mix them well together, add
half a teaspoonful of salt for meat puddings, and a third as much for
fruit ones, and sufficient cold water to make the whole into a very
firm paste; work it smooth, and roll it out of equal thickness when
it is used. The weight of suet should be taken after it is minced.
This crust is so much lighter, and more wholesome than that which •
is made with butter, that we cannot refrain from recommending it in
preference to our readers. Some cooks merely slice the suet in thin
shavings, mix it with the flour, and beat the crust with a paste-roller,
until the flour and suet are perfectly incorporated; but it is better
minced.
Flour, 2 lbs.; suet, 12 oz.; salt, 1 teaspoonful; water, 1 pint.
BUTTER CRUST FOR PUDDINGS.
When suet is disliked for crust, butter must supply its place, but
there must be no intermixture of lard in paste which is to be boiled.
Eight ounces to the pound of flour will render it sufficienty rich for
most eaters, and less will generally be preferred; rich crust of this
kind being more indigestible by far than that which is baked. The
butter may be lightly broken into the flour before the water is added
or it may be laid on, and rolled into the paste as for puff-crust. A
small portion of salt must be added to it always, and for a meat
pudding the same proportion as directed in the preceding receipt.
For kitchen, or for quite common family puddings, butter and
clarified dripping are used sometimes in equal proportions. From
three to four ounces of each will be sufficient for the pound and
quarter of flour.
Flour, 1 lb.; butter, 8 oz.; salt, for fruit puddings, 1 saltspoonful;
for meat puddings, 1 teaspoonful.


CHAP. XX.]
399
BOILED PUDDINGS.
SAVOURY PUDDINGS
The perfect manner in which the nutriment and flavour of an
infinite variety of viands may be preserved by enclosing and boiling
them in paste, is a great recommendation of this purely English class
of dishes, the advantages of which foreign cooks are beginning to
acknowledge. If really well made, these savoury puddings are
worthy of a place on any table; though the decrees of fashion-
which in many instances have so much more influente with us than
they deserve-have hitherto confined them almost entirely to the
simple family dinners of the middle classes ; but we are bound to
acknowledge that even where they are most commonly served they
are seldom prepared with a creditable degree of skill ; and they are
equally uninviting and unwholesome when heavily and coarsely
concocted. From the general suggestions which we make here, and
the few detailed receipts which follow, a clever cook will easily com-
pound them to suit the taste and means of her employers; for they
may be either very rich and expensive, or quite the reverse.' Venison
(the neck is best for the purpose), intermingled or not with truffles;
sweetbreads sliced, and oysters or nicely prepared button-mushrooms
in alternate layers, with good veal stock for gravy;* pheasants,
partridges, moorfowl, woodcocks, snipes, plovers, wheatears, may all
be converted into the first class of these ; and veal kidneys, seasoned
with fine herbs, will supply another variety of them. Many persons
like eels dressed in this way, but they are unsuited to delicate eaters ;
and sausages are liable to the same objection; and so is a harslet
pudding, which is held in much esteem in certain counties, and
which is made of the heart, liver, kidneys, &c., of a pig. We can
recommend as both wholesome and economical the receipts which
follow, for the more simple kind of savoury puddings, and which
may serve as guides for such others as the intelligence of the cook
may suggest.
BEEF-STEAK, OR JOHN BULL'S PUDDING
All meat puddings are more conveniently made in deep pans,
moulds, or basins having a thick rim, below which the cloths can be
tied without the hazard of their slipping off; and as the puddings
should by no means be turned out before they are sent to table, one
to match the dinner-service, at least in colour, is desirable.† Roll
* The liquor of the oysters should be added when they are used.
+ It is now customary in some families to have both meat and fruit puddinge
boiled and served in pie or tart-dishes. They are lined entirely with very thin
crust, or merely edged with it, according to taste ; then filled, closed, and cooked
in the usual manner. The plan is a good and convenient one, where the light
upper-crust is preferred to the heavy and sodden part which is under the meat.
In Kent and Sussex, shallow pans, in form somewhat resembling a large deep
6&ccer, are sold expressly for boiling weat puddings.


400
[CHAP. XX.
MODERN COOKERY.
very thick.
out a suet crust to half an inch in thickness, line evenly with it a
quart, or any other sized basin that may be preferred, and raise the
crust from an inch and a half to two inches above the edge. Fill it
with layers of well-kept rump-steak, neatly trimmed, and seasoned
with salt and pepper, or cayenne ; pour in some cold water to make
the gravy; roll out the cover, moisten the edge, as well as that of
the pudding; draw and press them together carefully, fold them
over, shake out a cloth which has been dipped into hot water, wrung
out, and well floured; tie it over the pudding, gather the corners
together, tie them over the top of the pudding, put it into plenty of
fast boiling water, and let it remain in from three to five hours,
according to its size. The instant it is lifted out, stick a fork quite
through the middle of the paste to prevent its bursting; remove the
cloth quickly, and cut a small round or square in the top to allow the
steam to escape, and serve the pudding immediately. Though not
considered very admissible to an elegantly served table, this is a
favourite dish with many persons, and is often in great esteem with
sportsmen, for whom it is provided in preference to fare which re-
quires greater exactness in the time of cooking; as an additional
hour's boiling, or even more, will have little effect on a large pudding
of this kind, beyond reducing the quantity of gravy, and rendering it
Some cooks flour the meat slightly before it is laid into the crust,
out we do not think it an improvement: where fat is liked, a portion
may be added with the lean, but all skin and sinew should be care-
fully rejected. Beat the steak with a paste roller, or cutlet-bat,
should it not appear to be perfectly tender, and divide it into portions
about the width of two fingers. Two or three dozens of oysters,
bearded and washed free from grit in their own liquer (which should
afterwards be strained and poured into the pudding), may be inter-
mingled with the meat.
A true epicurean receipt for this dish directs the paste to be made
with veal-kidney suet, and filled with alternate layers of the inside of
the sirloin, sliced and seasoned, and of fine plump native oysters,
intermixed with an occasional small slice of the veal fat.
SMALL BEEF-STEAK PUDDING.
Make into a very firm smooth paste, one pound of flour, six ounces
of beef-suet finely minced, half a teaspoonful of salt, and half a pint
of cold water. Line with this a basin which holds a pint and a half.
Season a pound of tender steak, free from bone and skin, with half
an ounce of salt and half a teaspoonful of pepper well mixed together;
lay it in the crust, pour in a quarter of a pint of water, roll out the
cover, close the pudding carefully, tie a floured cloth over, and boil it
for three hours and a half. We give this receipt in addition to the
preceding one, as an exact guide for the proportions of meat-puddings
in general


CHAP. XX.]
BOILED PUDDINGS.
401
Flour, 1 lb.; suet, 6 oz.; salt, 1 teaspoonful; water, 1 pint; rump-
steak, 1 lb.; salt, į oz. ; pepper, teaspoonful; water, pint: 3;
hours.
RUTH PINCA'S BEEF-STEAK PUDDING.
To make Ruth Pinch's celebrated pudding (known also as beef-
steak pudding à la Dickens), substitute six ounces of butter for the
suiet in this receipt, and moisten the paste with the well-beaten yolks
of four eggs, or with three whole ones, mixed with a little water;
butter the basin very thickly before the paste is laid in, as the
pridding is to be turned out of it for table. In all else proceed
exactly as above.
MUTTON PUDDING,
Mutton freed perfectly from fat, and mixed with two or three
sliced kidneys, makes an excellent pudding. The meat may be
sprinkled with fine herbs as it is laid into the crust. This will
require rather less boiling than the preceding puddings, but it is
made in precisely the same way.
PARTRIDGE PUDDING.
(Very Good.)
Skin a brace of well-kept partridges and cut them down into
joints ; line a deep basin with suet crust, observing the directions
given in the preceding receipts; lay in the birds, which should be
rather highly seasoned with pepper or cayenne, and moderately with
salt; pour in water for the gravy, close the pudding with care, and
boil it from three hours to three and a half. The true flavour of the
game is admirably preserved by this mode of cooking. When mush-
rooms are plentiful, put a layer of buttons, or small flaps, cleaned as
for pickling, alternately with a layer of partridge, in filling the
pudding, which will then be most excellent eating : the crust may be
left untouched, and merely emptied of its contents, where it is
objected to, or its place may be supplied with a richer one made of
butter. A seasoning of pounded mace or nutmeg can be used at
discretion. Puddings of veal, chickens, and young rabbits, may all
be made by this receipt, or with the addition of oysters, which we
have already noticed.
A PEAS PUDDING.
(To serve with boiled pork.)
Separate carefully from a pint of good mellow split peas, all that
are worm-eaten ; wash the remainder well, and soak them for a night
in plenty of soft water. The following day tie them up in a thick
pudding cloth, giving them room to swell, cover them well with cold
soft water and boil them gently from two hours to two and a half:
if they are not then quite tender, they are of bad quality, and cannot
DD)


402
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. XX.
be rendered so. Lift them into a cullender, untie the cloth, and
crush them to a paste with a wooden spoon, stir in a good slice of
butter, and a seasoning of pepper and salt, tie them up again very
tight, and boil them for half an hour; turn the pudding gently into
a dish that it may not break, and serve it as hot as possible. This is
the common old-fashioned mode of preparing a peas pudding, and
many persons prefer it to the more modern one which follows.
Soak, and boil the peas as above, drain the water well from them
before the cloth is untied, rub them through a cullender or sieve,
mix the seasoning and the butter thoroughly with them, then add to
them gradually three well whisked eggs, tie the mixture tightly and
closely in a floured cloth, and boil it for one hour.
Good split peas, 1 pint; soaked in soft water 1 night. Boiled 2 to
2 hours. Butter, 1 oz.: salt, pepper : boil again 20 to 30 minutes.
Or: butter, 1} oz.; eggs, 3: boiled 1 hour.
Obs.-When soft water cannot be had, half a teaspoonful of car-
bonate of soda must be stirred into that in which the peas are boiled.
They must have room to swell or they will be hard; but if too much
be given them they will be watery, and it will be difficult to convert
them into a pudding at all.
WINE SAUCE FOR SWEET PUDDINGS.
Boil gently together for ten or fifteen minutes the very thin rind
of half a small lemon, about an ounce and a half of sugar, and a
wineglassful of water. Take out the lemon-peel and stir into the
sauce until it has boiled for one minute, an ounce of butter smoothly
mixed with a large half-teaspoonful of flour ; add a wineglassful and
a half of sherry or Madeira, or other good white wine, and when
quite hot serve the sauce without delay. Port wine sauce is made in
the same way with the addition of a dessertspoonful of lemon-jaice,
some grated nutmeg and a little more sugar. Orange-rind and juice
may be used for it instead of lemon.
COMMON WINE SAUCE.
Sweeten a quarter-pint of good melted butter with an ounce and
a half of sugar, and add to it gradually a couple of glasses of wine ;
stir it until it is at the point of boiling, and serve it immediately.
Lemon-grate, or nutmeg, can be added at pleasure.
PUNCH SAUCE FOR SWEET PUDDINGS.
This
may
be served with custard, plain bread, and plum-puddings
With two ounces of sugar and a quarter of a pint of water, boil very
gently the rind of half a small lemon, and somewhat less of orange-
peel, from fiftcen to twenty minutes ; strain out the rinds, thicken
the sauce with an ounce and a half of butter and nearly a teaspoonful
of flour, add a half-glass of brandy, the same of white wine, two-


CHAP. XX.]
BOILED PUDDINGS.
403
thirds of a glass of rum, with the juice of half an orange, and rather
less of lemon-juice : serve the sauce very hot, but do not allow it to
boil after the spirit is stirred in.
Sugar, 2 oz. ; water, # pint; lemon and orange rind: 14 to 20
minutes. Butter, 1} oz. ; Aour, 1 teaspoonful ; brandy and white
wine, each s wineglassful; rum, two-thirds of glassful; orange and
lemon juice.
FOR CLEAR ARROW-ROOT SAUCE,
(See the Welcome Guest's Own Pudding.)
A GERMAN CUSTARD PUDDING-SAUCE.
Boil very gently together half a pint of new milk or of milk and
cream mixed, a very thin strip or two of fresh lemon-rind, a bit of
cinnamon, half an inch of a vanilla bean, and an ounce and a half or
two ounces of sugar, until the milk is strongly flavoured ; then strain,
and pour it, by slow degrees, to the well-beaten yolks of three eggs,
smoothly mixed with a knife-end-full (about half a teaspoonful) of
flour, a grain or two of salt, and a tablespoonful of cold milk; and
stir these very quickly round as the milk is added. Put the sauce
again into the stewpan, and whisk or stir it rapidly until it thickens,
and looks creamy, It must not be placed upon the fire, but should
be held over it, when this is done. The Germans mill their sauces to
a froth; but they may be whisked with almost equally good effect,
though a small mill for the purpose-formed like a chocolate mill-
may be had at a very trifling cost.
A DELICIOUS GERMAN PUDDING-SAUCE.
Dissolve in half a pint of sherry or of Madeira, from three to four
ounces of fine sugar, but do not allow the wine to boil; stir it hot to
the well-beaten yolks of six fresh eggs, and mill the sauce over a
gentle fire until it is well thickened and highly frothed ; pour it over
a plum, or any other kind of sweet boiled pudding, of which it much
improves the appearance. Half the quantity will be sufficient for one
of moderate size. We recommend the addition of a dessertspoonful
of strained lemon-juice to the wine.
For large pudding, sherry or Madeira, pint; fine sugar, 3 to 4
oz.; yolks of eggs, 6; lemon-juice (if added), 1 dessertspoonful.
Obs.---As we have already said in the previous receipt, it is cus-
tomary to froth sweet sauces in Germany with a small machine
made like a chocolate-mill. Two silver forks fastened together at the
handles may be used instead on an emergency, or the sauce may be
whisked to the proper state, like the one which precedes it.
Great care must be taken not to allow these sauces to curdle. The
safer plan is to put any preparation of the kind into a white jar, and
to place it over the fire in a pan of boiling water, and then to stir or
mill it until it is sufficiently thickened : the jar should not be half


404
[CHAP. XI.
MODERN COOKERY.
filled, and it should be large enough to allow the sauce to be worked
easily. The water should not reach to within two or three inches of
the brim. We give these minute details for inexperienced cooks.
RED CURRANT OR RASPBERRY SAUCE. (GOOD.)
Measure half a pint of sound red currants after they have been
stripped from the stalks ; wash them, should they be dusty, and drain
all the water from them. Have ready a syrup, made with three
ounces of sugar in lumps, and the third a pint of water, boiled
gently together for five minutes ; put in the currants, and stew them
for ten minutes; strain off the juice, of which there will be nearly or
quite half a pint, through a lawn sieve or folded muslin; heat it
afresh, and pour it boiling to a small spoonful of arrow-root which
has been very smoothly mixed with a tablespoonful of cold water,
being careful to stir it briskly while the juice is being added; give
the sauce a minute's boil to render it transparent, and mask the pud-
ding with it (or, in other words, pour it equally over it, so as to
cover the entire surface); or serve it in a turcen. A few raspberries
may be added in their season, to flavour this preparation; but if quite
ripe, they must be thrown into the syrup without having been
washed, two or three minutes after the currants have been put into
it. A delicious sauce may be made entirely from raspberries as
above, allowing a larger proportion of the fruit, as it yields less juice
than the currant.
The proportions directed in this receipt are quite sufficient for a
pudding of moderate size, but they can easily be increased when
required.
COMMON RASPBERRY-SAUCE.
Put three ounces of sugar broken into small lumps, and a wine-
glassful and a half of water into a small stewpan, and boil them for
four or five minutes. Add half a pint of fresh ripe raspberries, well
mashed with the back of a spoon. Mix them with the syrup, and
boil them for six or seven minutes ; the sauce should then be quite
smooth and clear. The quantity of it with these proportions will not
be large, but can be increased at pleasure.
Obs.-We have generally found that the most simple, and con-
sequently the most refreshing fruit-sauces have been much liked by
the persons who have partaken of them; and they are, we think,
preferable to the foreign ones-German principally-to which wine
and cinnamon are commonly added, and which are often composed of
dried fruit. Their number can easily be augmented by an intelligent
cook ; and they can be varied through all the summer and autumaal
months with the fruit in season at the time.
SUPERIOR FRUIT-SAUCES FOR SWEET PUDDINGS.
Clear rich fruit syrups, such as the Sirop de Groseilles of Chapter
"YIX. or those from which cherries, apricots, damsons, and


CHAP. xx.)
405
BOILED PUDDINGS.
other plums, are taken when they have been prepared in them for
drying, make the finest possible sauces for sweet puddings. A pound
of ripe Morella cherries, for example, pricked separately with a
large needle, then slowly heated and simmered from seven to ten
minutes with three quarters of a pound of castor-sugar, and allowed
to become cold in their juice, will be excellent if laid on dishes and
slowly dried ; and the syrup from them will be a delicious accom-
paniment to a pudding (or to plain boiled rice); and it will also
atford a most agreeable summer beverage mixed with water, slightly
iced, or not. Other varieties of these sauces are made by stewing the
fruit tender without sugar, then rubbing it through a sieve, and
diluting it with wine; or simply mixing and boiling it with sufficient
sugar to render it sweet and clear.
PINE-APPLE PUDDING-SAUCE.
Rasp down on a fine bright grater sufficient of the flesh of a ripe
Jamaica or English pine-apple from which the rind has been thickly
pared, to make the quantity of sauce required. Simmer it quite
tender, with a very small quantity of water; then mix with it by
degrees from half to three-quarters of its weight of sugar, give it five
minutes more of gentle boiling, and pour it over the pudding.
Rasped pine-apple, 6 oz. ; water, 2 tablespoonsful : 10 to 15
minutes gentle stewing. Sugar, 4 oz. : 5 minutes.
A finer sauce may be made with half a pound of the pine first
simmered tender in its own juice, and one tablespoonful only, of
water, and then mixed with seven ounces of sifted sugar, and boiled
gently until it looks clear. If too sweet, the strained juice of half a
large sized lemon may be stirred to it before it is served, but a cer-
tain weight of sugar is required to make it appear bright. This pre-
paration may be kept for some time, and warmed afresh for table
when needed.
A VERY FINE PINE-APPLE SACCE OR SYRUP, FOR PUDDINGS OR
OTHER SWEET DISHES.
After having pared away every morsel of the rind from a ripe and
highly flavoured pine-apple, cut three-quarters of a pound of it into
very thin slices, and then into quite small dice. Pour to it nearly
half a pint of spring water; heat, and boil it very gently until it is
extremely tender, then strain and press the juice closely from it
through a cloth or through a muslin strainer* folded in four; strain
• It is almost superfluous to say that the large squares of muslin, cf which on
account of their peculiar nicety we have recommended the use for straining
many sweet preparations, must never have a particle of starch in them; they
should be carefully kept free from dust and soil of any kind, and a'ways well
rinsed and soaked in clear water before they are dried.


406
[CHAP. IX.
MODERN COOKERY.
it clear, mix it with ten ounces of the finest sugar in small lumps,
and when this is dissolved, boil the syrup gently for a quarter of an
hour. It will be delicious in flavour and very bright in colour if
well made. If put into a jar, and stored with a paper tied over it, it
will remain excellent for weeks ; and it will become almost a jelly
with an additional ounce of sugar and rather quicker boiling. It may
be poured round moulded creams, rice, or sago; or mingled with
various sweet preparations for which the juice of fruit is admissible.
GERMAN CHERRY SAUCE.
Beat a quart of cherries in a mortar until the stones are broken,
then boil them tender with half a pint of water and wine mixed.
Rub them through a sieve, and boil them again, with from four to
six ounces of fine sugar, some grated lemon-peel, powdered cinnamon,
and a small portion of pounded cloves. In a few minutes stir to the
sauce a dessertspoonful of potato-flour, smoothly mixed with a very
little cold water; continue to stir until it is again ready to boil, and
serve it, either poured entirely over the pudding, or in a tureen.
COMMON BATTER PUDDING.
Beat four eggs thoroughly, mix with them half a pint of milk, and
pass them through a sieve, add them by degrees to half a pound of
flour, and when the batter is perfectly smooth, thin it with another
half pint of milk. Shake out a wet pudding cloth, flour it well,
pour the batter in, leave it room to swell, tie it securely, and put it
immediately into plenty of fast-boiling water. An hour and ten
minutes will boil it. Send it to table the instant it is dished, with
wine sauce, a hot compóte of fruit, or raspberry vinegar : this last
makes a delicious pudding sauce.
Unless the liquid be added very
gradually to the flour, and the mixture be well stirred and beaten
as each portion is poured to it, the batter will not be smooth : to
render it very light, a portion of the whites of the or the whole
of them, should be whisked to a froth and stirred into it just before
it is put into the cloth.
Flour, 1 lb.; eggs, 4; salt, 1 teaspoonful; milk, 1 pint: 1 hour
and 10 minutes.
Obs.- Modern taste is in favour of puddings boiled in moulds, but,
as we have already stated, they are seldom or ever so light as those
which are tied in cloths only.
ANOTHER BATTER PUDDING.
Mix the yolks of three eggs smoothly with three heaped table-
spoonsful of flour, thin the batter with new milk until it is of the
consistence of cream, whisk the whites of eggs apart, stir them into
the batter, and boil the pudding in a floured cloth or in a buttered


CHAP. XX.]
BOILED PUDDINGS.
407
mould or basin for an hour. Before it is served, cut the top quickly
into large dice half through the pudding, pour over it a small jarful
of fine currant, raspberry, or strawberry jelly, and send it to table
without the slightest delay.
Flour, 3 tablespoonsful; eggs, 3 ; salt, 1 teaspoonful; milk, from
{ to whole pint: 1 hour.
BLACK-CAP PUDDING.
Make a good light thin batter, and just before it is poured into the
cloth stir to it half a pound of currants, well cleaned and dried :
these will sink to the lower part of the pudding and blacken the
surface. Boil it the usual time, and dish it with the dark side
uppermost; send very sweet sauce to table with it. Some cooks
butter a mould thickly, strew in the currants, and pour the batter on
them, which produces the same appearance as when the ingredients
are tied in a cloth.
All batter puddings should be despatched quickly to table when
they are once ready to serve, as they speedily become heavy if
allowed to wait.
BATTER FRUIT PUDDING.
Butter thickly a basin which holds a pint and a half, and fill it
nearly to the brim with good boiling apples pared, cored, and quar-
tered; pour over them a batter made with four tablespoonsful of
flour, two large or three small eggs, and half a pint of milk. Tie a
buttered and floured cloth over the basin, which ought to be quite
full, and boil the pudding for an hour and a quarter. Turn it into
a hot dish when done, and strew sugar thickly over it: this, if added
to the batter at first, renders it heavy. Morella cherries make a
very superior pudding of this kind; and green gooseberries, damsons,
and various other fruits, answer for it extremely well: the time of
boiling it must be varied according to their quality and its size.
For a pint and a half mould or basin filled to the brim with apples
or other fruit; flour, 4 tablespoonsful; eggs, 2 large or 3 small;
milk, pint: 11 hour.
Obs.-Apples cored, halved, and mixed with a good batter, make
an excellent baked pudding, as do red currants, cherries, and plums
of different sorts likewise.
KENTISH SUET PUDDING.
To a pound and a quarter of flour add half a pound of finely
minced beef-suet,* half a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter one of
A very common fault with bad and careless cooks is, that of using for paste
and puddings suet coarsely chopped, which is, to many eaters, distasteful to the
last degree.


408
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. XX.
pepper; mix these into a smooth paste with one well-beaten egg, and
a little cold milk or water; make it into the shape of a paste-roller,
fold a floured cloth round it, tie the ends tightly, and boil it for two
hours. In Kentish farm-houses, and at very plain family dinners,
this pudding is usually sent to table with boiled beef, and is some-
times cooked with it also. It is very good sliced and broiled, or
browned in a Dutch oven, after having become quite cold.
Flour, 11 lb. ; suet, 1 lb. ; salt 1 teaspoonful ; half as much pepper;
1
egg ;
little milk or water : boiled 2 hours.
ANOTHER SUET PUDDING.
Make into a somewhat lithe but smooth paste, half a pound of
fine stale bread-crumbs, three quarters of a pound of flour, from ten
to twelve ounces of beef-suet chopped extremely small, a large half-
teaspoonful of salt, and rather less of pepper, with two eggs and a
little milk. Boil it for two hours and a quarter.
APPLE, CURRANT, CHERRY, OR OTHER FRESH FRUIT PUDDING.
Make a paste as for a beef-steak pudding, either with suet or
butter; lay into a basin a well-floured cloth, which has been dipped
into hot water, wrung dry, and shaken out; roll the paste thin,
press it evenly into the basin upon the cloth, fill it with apples, pared,
cored, and quartered, or with any other fruit; put on the cover,
taking care to moisten the edges of the paste, to press them well
together, and fold them over; gather up the ends of the cloth, and
tie it firmly close to the pudding, which should then be dropped
into plenty of fast boiling water. When it is done, lift it out by
twisting a strong fork into the corner of the cloth, turn it gently
into the dish in which it is to be served, and cut immediately a small
round or square from the top, or the pudding will quickly become
heavy; send it to table without the slightest delay, accompanied by
pounded, and by good Lisbon sugar, as many persons prefer the
latter, from its imparting a more mellowed flavour to the fruit. A
small slice of fresh butter, and some finely grated nutmeg, are usually
considered improvements to an apple pudding; the juice, and the
grated rind of a lemon may be added with good effect, when the
fruit is laid into the crust, especially in spring, when the apples
generally will have become insipid in their flavour. For tables of
any pretension, sugar must be added to them when they are made ;
but many varieties of apple do not so readily form a smooth light
pulp when it is enclosed with them in the paste. A small jar of
apricot jam is always an admirable addition to an apple tart or
pudding; and a small glass of wine when the fruit is not juicy, will
assist to bring it to the right consistence. When puddings are
preferred boiled in moulds or basins, these must be thickly buttered


CHAP. xx.]
409
BOILED PUDDINGS.
before the paste is laid into them, and the puddings must be turned
from them gently, that they may not burst.
Currant, gooseberry, or cherry pudding, 1 to 14 hour. Green-
gage, damson, mussel, or other plum, 1 to 14 hour. Apple pudding,
from 1 to 2 hours, according to its size, and the time of year.
Obs. If made of codlings, an apple pudding will require only so
much boiling as may be needed for the crust. These are sometimes
mixed with Morella cherries rolled in plenty of sugar, and the two
fruits mixed are excellent, but the Morellas by themselves are
better
A COMMON APPLE PUDDING,
Make a light crust with one pound of flour, and six ounces of
very finely minced beef-suet ; roll it thin, and fill it with one pound
and a quarter of good boiling apples; add the grated rind and
strained juice of a small lemon, tie it in a cloth, and boil it one hour
and twenty minutes before Christmas, and from twenty to thirty
minutes longer after Christmas. A small slice of fresh butter,
stirred into it when it is sweetened will, to many tastes, be an
acceptable addition; grated nutmeg, or a little cinnamon in fine
powder, may be substituted for the lemon-rind when either is
preferred. To convert this into a richer pudding use half a pound
of butter for the crust, and add to the apples a spoonful or two of
orange or quince marmalade.
Crust: flour, 1 lb.; suet, 6 oz. Fruit, pared and cored, 1} lb.;
juice and rind of 1 small lemon (or some nutmeg or cinnamon in
powder).
Richer pudding: flour, 1 lb. ; butter 1 lb.; in addition to fruit,.
1 or 2 tablespoonsful of orange or quince marmalade.
HERODOTUS' PUDDING.
(A Genuine Classical Receipt.)
« Prepare and mix in the usual manner one pound of fine raisins
stoned, one pound of minced beef-suet, half a pound of bread-crumbs,
four figs chopped small, two tablespoonsful of moist sugar (honey,
in the original), two wineglassesful of sherry, and the rind of half
a large lemon (grated). Boil the pudding for fourteen hours."
Obs.—This receipt is really to be found in Herodotus. The only
variations made in it are the substitution of sugar for honey, and
sherry for the wine of ancient Greece. We are indebted for it to
an accomplished scholar, who has had it served at his own table on
more than one occasion; and we have given it on his authority,
without testing it: but we venture to suggest that seven hours would
boil it quite sufficiently.


CHAP. XX.]
411
BOILED PUDDINGS.
buttered mould or basin that will just hold it. Let it stand for five
minutes at least before it is turned out; dish it carefully, strew, and
garnish it thickly with branches of preserved barberries, or send it
to table with a rich syrup of fresh fruit
, or with clear fruit-jelly,
melted. We have had often a compôte (see Sweet Dishes) of cur-
rants, cherries, or plums served, and greatly relished with this pud-
ding, which we can recommend to our readers as an extremely deli-
cate one. The flavouring may be varied with bitter almonds, lemon-
rind, noyau, or aught else which may be better liked than the
vanilla.
New milk, 1 pint; vanilla, 1 pod: 20 minutes Cream, i pint;
sugar, 3 oz ; yolks of eggs, 8: 1 hour.
Obs.—The cook must be reminded that unless the eggs be stirred
briskly as the boiling milk is gradually poured to them, they will be
likely to curdle. A buttered paper should always be put over the
basin before the cloth is tied on, for all custard puddings.
COMMON CUSTARD PUDDING.
Whisk three eggs well, put them into a pint basin, and add to
them sufficient milk to fill it: then strain, flavour, and sweeten it
with fine sugar; boil the pudding very softly for an exact half hour,
let it stand a few minutes, dish, and serve it with sugar sifted over,
and sweet sauce in a tureen, or send stewed gooseberries, currants, or
cherries to table with it. A small quantity of lemon-brandy, or of
ratifia can be added, to give it flavour, when it is made, or the sugar
with which it is sweetened may be rasped on a lemon or an orange,
then crushed and dissolved in the milk; from an ounce and a half to
two ounces will be sufficient for general taste.
PRINCE ALBERT'S PUDDING.
Beat to a cream half a pound of fresh butter and mix with it by
degrees an equal weight of pounded loaf-sugar, dried and sifted ; adă
to these, after they have been well beaten together, first the yolks,
and then the whites of five fresh eggs, which have been thoroughly
whisked apart; now strew lightly in, half a pound of the finest flour,
dried and sifted, and last of all, half a pound of jar raisins, weighed
after they are stoned. Put these ingredients, perfectly mixed, into a
well-buttered mould, or floured cloth, and boil the pudding for three
hours. Serve it with punch sauce. We recommend a little pounded
mace, or the grated rind of a small lemon, to vary the flavour of this
excellent pudding; and that when a mould is used, slices of candied
peel should be laid rather thickly over it after it is buttered.
Fresh bụtter, pounded sugar, flour, stoned raisins, each ; Ib. ; eggs,
5; 3 hours


412
[CHAP. IX.
MODERN COOKERY.
GERMAN PUDDING, AND SAUCE. (VERY GOOD.)
Stew, until very tender and dry, three ounces of whole rice in a
pint and a quarter of milk; when a little cooled, mix with it three
ounces of beef-suet finely chopped, two ounces and a half of sugar,
an ounce of candied orange or lemon-rind, six ounces of sultana
raisins, and three large eggs well beaten, and strained. Boil the
pudding in a buttered basin, or in a well-floured cloth, for two
hours and a quarter, and serve it with the following sauce :-Dissolve
an ounce and a half of sugar broken small in two glasses of sherry,
or of any other white wine, and stir them when quite hot, to the
beaten yolks of three fresh eggs; then stir the sauce in a small sauce-
pan held high above the fire until it resembles custard, but by no
means allow it to boil, or it will instantly curdle; pour it over the
pudding, or, if preferred, send it to table in a tureen. We think a
full teaspoonful of lemon-juice added to the wine an improvement
to this sauce which is excellent; and we can recommend the pudding
to our readers.
Milk, 14 pint; rice, 3 oz. ; 1 hour, or more. Suet, 3 oz.; sugar.
24 oz.; candied peel, 1 oz.; sultana raisins, 6 oz.; eggs, 3 large : 2;
hours, Sauce : sherry, 2 glasses; sugar, 11 oz.; yolks of eggs, 3;
little lemon-juice.
We have already, in a previous part of the volume, directed that
the German sauce should be milled to a fine froth, and poured upon
the pudding with which it is served : when this is not done, the
quantity should be increased
THE WELCOME GUEST'S OWN PUDDING. (LIGHT AND
WHOLESOME.)
(Author's Receipt.)
Pour, quite boiling, on four ounces of fine bread crumbs, an exact
half-pint of new milk, or of thin cream; lay a plate over the basin
and let them remain until cold ; then stir to them four ounces of dry
crumbs of bread, four of very finely minced beef-kidney suet, a small
pinch of salt, three ounces of coarsely crushed ratifias, three ounces
of candied citron and orange-rind sliced thin, and the grated rind of
one large or of two small lemons. Clear, and whisk four large eggs
well, throw to them by degrees four ounces of pounded sugar, and
continue to whisk them until it is dissolved, and they are very light;
stir them to, and beat them well up with the other ingredients ; pour
the mixture into a thickly buttered mould, or basin which will
contain nearly a quart, and which it should fill to within half an
an inch of the brim; lay first a buttered paper, then a well floured
pudding-cloth over the top, tie them tightly and very securely
round, gather up and fasten the corners of the cloth, and boil the


CHAP. XX.]
413
BOILED PUDDINGS.
sauce.
pudding for two hours at the utmost. Let it stand for a minute or
two before it is dished, and serve it with simple wine sauce, or with
that which follows; or with pine-apple or any other clear fruit-
(For these last, see page 405).
Boil very gently, for about ten minutes, a full quarter of a pint of
water, with the very thin rind of half a fresh lemon, and an ounce
and a half of lump sugar; then take out the lemon peel, and stir in
a small teaspoonful of arrowroot, smoothly mixed with the strained
juice of the lemon (with or without the addition of a little orange
juice); take the sauce from the fire, throw in nearly half a glass of
pale French brandy,* or substitute for this a large wineglassful of
sherry, or of any other white wine which may be preferred, but
increase a little, in that case, the proportion of arrowroot.
To convert the preceding into Sir Edwin Landseer's pudding,
ornament the mould tastefully with small leaves of thin citron-
rind and split muscatel raisins in a pattern, and strew the inter-
mediate spaces with well cleaned and well dried currants mingled
with plenty of candied orange or lemon-rind shred small. Pour
gently in the above pudding mixture, when quite cold, after having
added one egg yolk to it, and steam or boil it the same length of time.
A CABINET PUDDING.
Split and stone three dozens of fine jar raisins, or take an equal
number of dried cherries, and place either of them regularly in a sort
of pattern, in a thickly-buttered plain quart mould or basin ; next,
slice and lay into it three penny sponge-cakes ; add to these two
ounces of ratifias, four macaroons, an ounce and a half of candied
citron sliced thin, the yolks of four eggs with the whites of three
only, thoroughly whisked, mixed with half a pint of new milk, then
strained to half a pint of sweet cream, and sweetened with two ounces
and a half of pounded sugar: these ought to fill the mould exactly.
Steam the pudding, or boil it very gently for one hour; let it stand
a few minutes before it is dished, that it may not break; and serve it
with good wine or brandy sauce.
Jar raisins, or dried cherries, 3 dozens (quart mould or basin);
sponge biscuits, 3; macaroons, 4; ratifias, 2 oz. ; candied citron,
1 oz.; yolks of 4 eggs, whites of 3; new milk, « pint; cream,
pint; sugar, 2} oz.; steamed, or boiled, 1 hour.
Obs. We have given this receipt, for which we are indebted to a
friend, without any variation from
the original, because on testing it
we have found it very exact with regard to quantity and time; but
though an extremely delicate and excellent pudding, a little flavour-
ing would, we think, improve it: a small portion of the milk may be
omitted, and its place supplied by ratifia, lemon-brandy, or aught
else that is preferred.
* Maraschino, or any delicately flavoured liqueur, may be substituted for this
with much advantage.


414
[CHAP. XX.
MODERN COOKERY.
A VERY FINE CABINET PUDDING.
Butter thickly a mould of the same size as for the preceding
pudding, and ornament it tastefully with dried cherries, or with the
finest muscatel raisins opened and stoned; lay lightly into it a
quarter-pound of sponge biscuit cut in slices, and intermixed with an
equal weight of ratifias; sweeten with three ounces of sugar in
lumps, and flavour highly with vanilla, or with the thin rind of halı
a fine lemon, and six sound bitter almonds bruised (should these be
preferred), three-quarters of a pint, or rather more, of thin cream,
or of cream and new milk mixed; strain and pour this hot to the
well-beaten yolks of six eggs and the whites of two, and when the
mixture is nearly cold, throw in gradually a wineglassful of good
brandy ; pour it gently, and by degrees, into the mould, and steam
or boil the pudding very softly for an hour. Serve it with well
made wine sauce. Never omit a buttered paper over any sort of
custard-mixture; and remember that quick boiling will destroy the
good appearance of this kind of pudding. The liquid should be
quite cold before it is added to the cakes, or the butter on the mould
would melt off, and the decorations with it; preserved ginger, and
candied citron in slices, may be used to vary these, and the syrup of
the former may be added to give flavour to the other ingredients.
Dried cherries, 3 to 4 oz. ; sponge-biscuits, 4 lb.; ratifias, 4 oz.;
thin cream, or cream and milk, i pint; sugar, 3 oz.; vanilla, pod
(or thin rind of į lemon and 6 bitter almonds bruised); yolks of 6
eggs, whites of 2; brandy, 1 wineglassful (preserved ginger and
candied citron at choice): steamed, or gently boiled, 1 hour.
SNOW DON PUDDING.
(Genuine Receipt.)
Ornament a well buttered mould or basin with some fine raising
split open and stoned, but not divided, pressing the cut side on the
butter to make them adhere; next, mix half a pound of very finely
minced beef-kidney suet, with half a pound of bread crumbs, and an
ounce and a half of rice-flour, a pinch of salt, and six ounces of
lemon marmalade, or of orange when the lemon cannot be procured;
add six ounces of pale brown sugar, six thoroughly whisked eggs,
and the grated rinds of two lemons. Beat the whole until all the
ingredients are perfectly mixed, pour it gently into the mould, cover
it with a buttered paper and a floured cloth, and boil it for one hour
and a half. It will turn out remarkably well if carefully prepared.
Half the quantity given above will fill a mould or basin which will
contain rather more than a pint, and will be sufficiently boiled in ten
minutes less than an hour. To many tastes a slight diminution in
the proportion of svet would be an improvement to the pudding;


416
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. II.
tasteful mode of serving the remains of a plum- vulding than the
usual one of broiling them in slices, or converting t hem into fritters
The German sauce, well milled or frothed, is general dy much relished
with sweet boiled puddings, and adds greatly to tb their good appear.
ance; but common wine or punch sauce, may be sens, ot to table with
the above quite as appropriately.
.ly
Mould or basin holding 14 pint, lined with thin slice
reces of plum-
pudding; # pint new milk boiled gently 5 minutes wita su grain of
salt, 5 bitter almonds, bruised ; sugar in lumps, 2} oz.; thi rind of
ļ lemon, strained and mixed directly with 4 large well-beaten egos;
poured into mould while just warm; boiled gently 1 hour.
PUDDING A LA SCOONES.
Take of apples finely minced, and of currants, six ounces each ; of
suet, chopped small, sultana raisins, picked from the stalks, and
sugar, four ounces each, with three ounces of fine bread-crumbs, the
grated rind, and the strained juice of a small lemon, three well-beaten
eggs, and two spoonsful of brandy. Mix these ingredients perfectly,
and boil the pudding for two hours in a buttered basin ; sift sugar
over it when it is sent to table, and serve wine or punch sauce
apart.
INGOLDSBY CHRISTMAS PUDDINGS.
Mix very thoroughly one pound of finely grated bread with the
same quantity of flour, two pounds of raisins stoned, two of currants,
two of suet minced small, one of sugar, half a pound of candied peel,
one nutmeg, half an ounce of mixed spice, and the grated rinds of
two lemons; mix the whole with sixteen eggs well beaten and
strained, and add four glasses of brandy. These proportions will
make three puddings of good size, each of which should be boiled sis
hours.
Bread-crumbs, 1 lb.; flour, 1 lb.; suet, 2 lbs.; currants, 2 lbs.;
raisins, 2 lbs. ; sugar, 1 lb. ; candied peel, i lb.; rinds of lemons, 2;
nutmegs, 1; mixed spice, 1 oz.. salt, 1 teaspoonsful; eggs, 16 ; brandy ,
4 glassesful: 6 hours.
Obs.- A fourth part of the ingredients given above, will make a
pudding of sufficient size for a small party: to render this very rich,
half the flour and bread-crumbs may be omitted, and a few spoonsful
of apricot marmalade well blended with the remainder of the
mixture.*
SMALL AND VERY LIGHT PLUM PUDDING.
With three ounces of the crumb of a stale loaf finely grated and
soaked in a quarter of a pint of boiling milk, mix six ounces of suet
* Rather less liquid will be required to moisten the pudding when this is done,
and four hours and a quarter will boil it.


JAP. xx.]
BOILED PUDDINGS.
417
and the easi inced very small, one ounce of dry bread-crumbs, ten ounces of
be sure toned raisins,
a little salt, the grated rind of a china-orange, and
hree eggs, leaving out one white. Boil the pudding for two hours,
Tous and serve it with very sweet sauce; put no sugar in it.
VEGETABLE PLUM PUDDING.
to be tap
(Cheap and good.)
Mix well together one pound of smoothly-mashed potatoes, half a
pound of carrots boiled quite tender, and beaten to a paste, one
pound of flour, one of currants, and one of raisins (full weight after
they are stoned), three quarters of a pound of sugar, eight ounces of
suet, one nutmeg, and a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt. Put the
pudding into a well-floured cloth, tie it up very closely, and boil it
for four hours. The correspondent to whom we are indebted for
this receipt says, that the cost of the ingredients does not exceed half
a crown, and that the pudding is of sufficient size for a party of six-
teen persons. We can vouch for its excellence, but as it is rather apt
to break when turned out of the cloth, a couple of eggs would per-
haps improve it. It is excellent cold. Sweetmeats, brandy, and
spices can be added at pleasure.
Mashed potatoes, 1 įb.; carrots, 8 oz.; flour, 1 lb. ; suet, 1 lb.;
sugar, } lb. ; currants and raisins, 1 lb. each; nutmeg, 1; little salt:
4 hours.
THE AUTHOR'S CHRISTMAS PUDDING.
To three ounces of flour, and the same weight of fine, lightly-
grated bread-crumbs, add six of beef kidney-suet, chopped small, six
of raisins weighed after they are stoned, six of well-cleaned currants,
four ounces of minced apples, five of sugar, two of candied orange-
rind, half a teaspoonful of nutmeg mixed with pounded mace, a very
little salt, a small glass of brandy, and three whole eggs. Mix and
beat these ingredients well together, tie them tightly in a thickly-
floured cloth, and boil them for three hours and a half. We can
recommend this as a remarkably light small rich pudding : it may be
served with German, wine, or punch sauce.
Flour, 3 oz.; bread-crumbs, 3 oz.; suet, stoned raisins, and cur-
rants, each, 6 oz.; minced apples, 4 oz.; sugar, 5 oz.; candied peel,
2 oz.; spice, } teaspoonful ; salt, few grains ; brandy, smail wine-
glassful ; eggs, 3: 31 hours.
A KENTISH WELL PUDDING.
Make into a firm smooth paste, with cold water, one pound of fivur,
six ounces of finely-minced beef-suet, three quarters of a pound of
currants, and a small pinch of salt, thoroughly mixed together


418
[CHAP. XX.
MODERN COOKERY.
Form into a ball six ounces of good butter, and enclose it securely
in about a third of the paste (rolled to a half inch of thickness), in
the same way that an apple-dumpling is made; roll out the re-
mainder of the paste, and place the portion containing the butter in
the centre of it, with the part where the edge was drawn together
turned downwards: gather the outer crust round it, and after having
moistened the edge, close it with great care. Tie the pudding
tightly in a well-floured cloth, and boil it for two hours and a half.
It must be dished with caution that it may not break, and a small bit
must be cut directly from the top, as in a meat pudding. (See page
400).
This is a very favourite pudding in some parts of England; the
only difficulty in making or in serving it, is to prevent the escape of
the butter, which, if properly secured, will be found in a liquid state
in the inside, on opening it. Some timid cooks fold it in three
coverings of paste, the better to guard against its bursting through ;
but there is no danger of this if the edges of the crust be well closed.
When suet is objected to, seven ounces of butter may be substituted
for it. The currants are occasionally omitted.
Flour, 1 lb. ; suet, 6 oz.; currants, lb.; salt, small pinch ; ball of
butter 6 oz. : 24 hours.
ROLLED PUDDING.
Roll out thin a bit of light puff paste, or a good suet crust, and
spread equally over it to within an inch of the edge, any kind of fruit
jam. Orange marmalade, and mincemeat make excellent varieties of
this pudding, and a deep layer of fine brown sugar, flavoured with
the grated rind and strained juice of one very large, or of two small,
lemons, answers for it extremely well
. Roll it up carefully, pinch
the paste together at the ends, fold a cloth round, secure it well at
the ends, and boil the pudding from one to two hours, according to
its size and the nature of the ingredients. Half a pound of flour
made into a paste with suet or butter, and covered with preserve,
will be quite sufficiently boiled in an hour and a quarter.
A BREAD PUDDING.
Sweeten a pint of new milk with three ounces of fine sugar,
throw in a few grains of salt, and pour it boiling on half a pound of
fine and lightly-grated bread-crumbs; add an ounce of fresh butter,
and cover them with a plate ; let them remain for half an hour or
more, and then stir to them four large well-whisked eggs, and a
flavouring of nutmeg or of lemon-rind; pour the mixture into a
thickly-buttered mould or basin, which holds a pint and a half, and
which ought to be quite full; tie a paper and a cloth tightly over,
and boil the pudding for exactly an hour and ten minutes. This is
quite a plain receipt, but by omitting two ounces of the bread, and


CHAP. XX.]
419
BOILED PUDDINGS.
adding more butter, one egg, a small glass of brandy, the grated rind
of a lemon, and as much sugar as will sweeten the whole richly, a
very excellent pudding will be obtained ; candied orange-peel also
has a good effect when sliced thinly into it; and half a pound of
currants is generally considered a further improvement.
New milk, 1 pint ; sugar, 3 oz.; salt, few grains ; bread-crumbs,
lb.; eggs, 4 (5, if very small); nutmeg or lemon-rind at pleasure: 1
hour and 10 minutes.
Or: milk, 1 pint; bread-crumbs, 6 oz.; butter, 2 to 3 oz. ; sugar,
4 oz.; eggs, 5 ; brandy, small glassful; rind, 1 lemon. Further ad-
ditions at choice: candied peel, 1} oz.; currants, į lb.
A BROWN BREAD PUDDING.
To half a pound of stale brown bread, finely and lightly grated, add
an equal weight of suet chopped small, and of currants cleaned and
dried, with half a saltspoonful of salt, three ounces of sugar, the
third of a small nutmeg grated, two ounces of candied peel, five
well-beaten eggs, and a glass of brandy. Mix these ingredients
thoroughly, and boil the pudding in a cloth for three hours and a
half. Send port wine sauce to table with it. The grated rind of
a large lemon may be added to this pudding with good effect.
Brown bread, suet, and currants, each 8 oz.; sugar, 3 oz.; candied
peel, 2 oz.; salt, 1 saltspoonful ; f of small nutmeg; eggs, 5; brandy,
1 wineglassful: 31 hours.
A GOOD BOILED RICE PUDDING.
Swell gradually,* and boil until quite soft and thick, four ounces
and a half of whole rice in a pint and a half of new milk ; sweeten
them with from three to four ounces of sugar, broken small, and stir
to them while they are still quite hot, the grated rind of half a large
lemon, four or five bitter almonds, pounded to a paste, and four
large well-whisked eggs; let the mixture cool, and then pour it into
a thickly-buttered basin, or mould, which should be quite full ; tie a
buttered paper and a floured cloth over it, and boil the pudding
exactly an hour; let it stand for two or three minutes before it is
turned out, and serve it with sweet sauce, fruit syrup, or a compôte
of fresh fruit. An ounce and a half of candied orange-rind will
improve it much, and a couple of ounces of butter may be added to
enrich it, when the receipt without is considered too simple. It is
excellent when made with milk highly flavoured with cocoa-nut, or
with vanilla.
Whole rice, 4. oz.; new milk (or cocoa-nut-flavoured milk), 11
pint; sugar, 3 to 4 oz.; salt, a few grains ; bitter almonds, 4 to 6;
rind of lemon; eggs, 4: boiled 1 hour.
* That is to say, put the rice into the milk while cold, heat it slowly, and let
it only simmer until it is done.


420
[CHAP. XX.
MODERN COOKERY
CHEAP RICE PUDDING.
Waslı six ounces of rice, mix it with three quarters of a pound of
raisins, tie them in a well-floured cloth, giving them plenty of room
to swell ; boil them exactly an hour and three quarters, and serve
the pudding with very sweet sauce : this is a nice dish for the nursery.
A pound of apples pared, cored, and quartered, will also make a
very wholesome pudding, mixed with the rice, and boiled from an
hour and a quarter to an hour and a half; and sultana raisins and
rice will give another good variety of this simple pudding.
Rice, 6 oz. ; raisins, 1 lb.: 2 hours. Or, rice, 6 oz. ; apples, 1 lb. :
13 to 11 hour
RICE AND GOOSEBERRY PUDDING.
Spread six ounces of rice equally over a moist and well-foured
pudding-cloth, and place on it a pint of green gooseberries, measured
after the heads and stalks have been taken off. Gather the cloth up
carefully round the fruit, give room for the rice to swell, and boil the
pudding for an hour and a quarter. Very sweet sauce, or plenty of
sugar, should be eaten with it.
Rice, 6 oz.; green gooseberries, 1 pint: 11 hour.
FASHIONABLE APPLE DUMPLINGS.
These are boiled in small knitted or closely-netted cloths (the
former have, we think, the prettiest effect), which give quite an
ornamental appearance to an otherwise homely dish. Take out the
cores without dividing the apples, which should be large, and of a good
boiling kind, and fill the cavities with orange or lemon marmalade ;
enclose them in a good crust rolled thin, draw the cloths round them,
tie them closely, and boil them for three quarters of an hour. Lemon
dumplings may be boiled in the same way.
to 1 hour, if the apples be not of the best boiling kind.
ORANGE SNOW-BALLS.
Take out the unhusked grains, and wash well half a pound of rice;
put it into plenty of water, and boil it rather quickly for ten
minutes ; drain and let it cool. Pare four large, or five small
oranges, and clear from them entirely the thick white inner skin;
spread the rice, in as many equal portions as there are oranges, upon
some pudding or dumpling cloths; tie the fruit separately in these,
and boil the snow-balls for an hour and a half; turn them carefully
on to a dish, and strew plenty of sifted sugar over them. The
oranges carefully pared may be enclosed in a thin paste and boiled
for the same time
Rice, 8 oz. ; China oranges, 5: 11 hour


422
(CIAP. IX.
MODERN COOKERY.
twelve to fifteen minutes. Send them to table the instant they are
dished, with wine sauce or raspberry vinegar. In some counties they
are eaten with melted butter, well sweetened, and mixed with a little
vinegar. They must never be cut, but should be torn apart with a
couple of forks.
SWEET BOILED PATTIES. (good.)
Mix into a very smooth paste, three ounces of finely-minced suet
with eight of flour, and a light pinch of salt; divide it into fourteen
balls of equal size, roll them out quite thin and round, moisten the
edges, put a little preserve into each, close the patties very securely
to prevent its escape, throw them into a pan of boiling water, and in
from ten to twelve minutes lift them out, and serve them instantly.
Butter-crust may be used for them instead of suet but it will not be
so light.
Flour, 8 oz. ; suet, 3 oz.; little salt; divided into fourteen portions :
boiled 10 to 12 minutes.
BOILED RICE TO BE SERVED WITH STEWED FRUITS, PRESERVES,
OR RASPBERRY VINEGAR.
Take out the discoloured grains from half a pound of good rice;
and wash it in several waters; tie it very loosely in a pudding cloth,
put it into cold water; heat it slowly, and boil it for quite an hour,
it will then be quite solid and resemble a pudding in appearance.
Sufficient room must be given to allow the grain to swell to its full
size, or it will be hard; but too much space will render the whole
watery: With a little experience, the cook will easily ascertain the
exact degree to be allowed for it. Four ounces of rice will require
quite three quarters of an hour's boiling; a little more or less of time
will sometimes be needed, from the difference of quality in the grain.
It should be put into an abundant quantity of water, which should
be cold, and then very slowly heated.
Carolina rice, 1 lb.: boiled 1 hour. 4 oz. : hour.


CHAP. XXI.]
423
BAKED PUDDINGS.
CHAPTER XXI.
Baked Puddings. .

Pudding garnished with Preserves.
INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.

We have little to add here to the re-
marks which will be found at the com-
mencement of the preceding Chapter, as
they will apply equally to the preparation
of these and of boiled puddings
All of the custard kind, whether made
of eggs and milk only, or of sago, arrow-
root, rice, ground or in grain, vermicelli,
&c., require a very gentle oven, and are Baked Pudding Mould
spoiled by fast-baking. Those made of batter on the contrary,
should be put into one sufficiently brisk to raise them quickly but
without scorching them. Such as contain suet and raisins must have
a well-heated but not a fierce oven; for as they must remain long in
it to be thoroughly done, unless carefully managed they will either
be much too highly coloured or too dry.
By whisking to a solid froth the whites of the eggs used for any
pudding, and stirring them softly into it at the instant of placing it
in the oven it will be rendered exceedingly light, and will rise very
high in the dish ; but as it will partake then of the nature of a


421
[CHAP. XXI.
MODERN COOKERY.
soufflé, it must be despatched with great expedition to table from the
oven, or it will become flat before it is served.
When a pudding is sufficiently browned on the surface (that is to
say, of a fine equal amber-colour) before it is baked through, a sheet
of writing paper should be laid over it, but not before it is set: when
quite firm in the centre it will be done.
Potato, batter, plum, and every other kind of pudding indeed
which is sufficiently solid to allow of it, should be turned on to a
clean hot dish from the one in which it is baked, and strewed with
siſted sugar before it is sent to table.
Minute directions for the preparation and management of each
particular variety of pudding will be found in the receipt for it.
A BAKED PLUM PUDDING EN MOULE, OR MOULDED.
Mingle thoroughly in a large pan or bowl half a pound of the
nicest beef-kidney suet minced very small, half a pound of carefully
stoned raisins, as many currants, four ounces of pounded sugar, half
a pound of flour, two ounces of candied citron and lemon or orange
rind, four large well whisked eggs, a small cup of milk, a glass of
brandy, a tiny pinch of salt, and some nutmeg or powdered ginger.
Beat the whole up lightly, pour it into a well-buttered mould or
cake-tin and bake it in a moderate oven from an hour and a half to
two hours. Turn it from the mould and send it quickly to table
with Devonshire cream, or melted apricot marmalade for sauce.
THE PRINTER'S PUDDING.
Grate very lightly six ounces of the crumb of a stale loaf, and put
it into a deep dish. Dissolve in a quart of cold new milk four
ounces of good Lisbon sugar; add it to five large, well-whisked eggs,
stra and mix them with the bread-crumbs; stir in two ounces of a
fresh finely-grated cocoa-nut; add a flavouring of nutmeg or of
lemon-rind, and the slightest pinch of salt; let the pudding stand for
a couple of hours to soak the bread; and bake it in a gentle oven for
three-quarters of an hour: it will be excellent if carefully made, and
not too quickly baked. When the cocoa-nut is not at hand, an
ounce of butter just dissolved, should be poured over the dish before
the crumbs are put into it; and the rind of an entire lemon may be
used to give it flavour; but the cocoa-nut imparts a peculiar richness
when it is good and fresh.
Bread-crumbs, 6 oz.; new milk, 1 quart; sugar, 4 oz.; eggs, 5;
cocoa-nut, 2 oz. (or rind, 1 large lemon, and 1 oz. butter); slightest
pinch of salt: to stand 2 hours. Baked in gentle oven full f hour.
Obe.-When a very sweet pudding is liked, the proportion of
sugar may be increased.


CHAP. XXI.]
425
BAKED PUDDINGS.
ALMOND PUDDING.
On two ounces of fine bread-crumbs pour a pint of boiling cream,
and let them remain until nearly cold, then mix them very gradually
with half a pound of sweet and six bitter almonds pounded to the
smoothest paste, with a little orange-flower water, or with a few drops
of spring water, just to prevent their oiling; stir to them by degrees
the well-beaten yolks of seven and the whites of three eggs, six
ounces of sifted sugar, and four of clarified butter; turn the mixture
into a very clean stewpan, and stir it without ceasing over a slow fire
until it becomes thick, but on no account allow it to boil. When it
is tolerably cool add a glass of brandy, or half a one of noyau, pour
the pudding into a dish lined with very thin puff paste, and bake it
half an hour in a moderate oven.
Bread-crumbs, 2 oz.; cream, 1 pint; pounded almonds, lb.;
bitter almonds, 6 ; yolks of 7, whites of 3 eggs ; sugar, 6 oz.: butter,
4 oz. ; brandy, 1 wineglassful, or glass of noyau: 1 hour, moderate
oven.
THE YOUNG WIFE'S PUDDING.
(Author's Receipt.)
Break separately into a cup four perfectly sweet eggs, and with
the point of a small three-pronged fork clear them from the specks.
Throw them, as they are done, into a large basin, or a bowl, and
beat them up lightly for four or five minutes ; then add by degrees
two ounces and a half of pounded sugar, with a very small pinch of
salt, and whisk the mixture well, holding the fork rather loosely
between the thumb and fingers ; next, grate in the rind of a quite
fresh lemon, or substitute for it a tablespoonful of lemon-brandy, or
of orange-flower water, which should be thrown in by degrees, and
stirred briskly to the eggs. Add a pint of cold new milk, and pour
the pudding into a well buttered dish. Slice some stale bread, some-
thing more than a quarter of an inch thick, and with a very small
cake-cutter cut sufficient rounds from it to cover the top of the
pudding; butter them thickly with good butter; lay them, with the
dry side undermost, upon the pudding, sift sugar thickly on them,
and set the dish gently into a Dutch or American oven, which
should be placed at the distance of a foot or more from a moderate
fire. An hour of very slow baking will be just sufficient to render
the pudding firm throughout; but should the fire be fierce, or the
oven placed too near it, the receipt will fail.
Obs. We give minute directions for this dish, because though
simple, it is very delicate and good, and the same instructions will
serve for all the varieties of it which follow. The cook who desires
to succeed with them, must take the trouble to regulate properly the


426
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. XX.
heat of the oven in which they are baked. When it is necessary to
place them in that of the kitchen-range the door should be left open
for a time to cool it down (should it be very hot), before they are
placed in it; and they may be set upon a plate or dish reversed, if
the iron should still remain greatly heated
THE GOOD DAUGHTER'S MINCEMEAT PUDDING.
(Author's Receipt.)
Lay into a rather deep tart-dish some thin slices of French roll
very slightly spread with butter and covered with a thick layer of
mincemeat; place a second tier lightly on these, covered in the same
way with the mincemeat; then pour gently in a custard made with
three well-whisked eggs, three-quarters of a pint of new milk or thin
cream, the slightest pinch of salt, and two ounces of sugar. Let the
pudding stand to soak for an hour, then bake it gently until it is
quite firm in the centre: this will be in from three-quarters of an
hour to a full hour.
MRS. HOWITT'S PUDDING.
(Author's Receipt.)
Butter lightly, on both sides, some evenly cut slices of roll, or of
light bread freed from crust, and spread the tops thickly but uni-
formly with good orange-marmalade. Prepare as much only in this
way as will cover the surface of the pudding without the edges of
the bread overlaying each other, as this would make it sink to the
bottom of the dish. Add the same custard as for the mincemeat-
pudding, but flavour it with French brandy only. Let it stand for
an hour, then place it gently in a slow oven and bake it until it is
quite set, but no longer. It is an excellent and delicate pudding
when properly baked; but like all which are composed in part of
custard, it will be spoiled by a fierce degree of heat. The bread
should be of a light clear brown, and the custard, under it, smooth
and firm. This may be composed, at choice, of the yolks of four and
whites of two eggs, thoroughly whisked, first without and then with
two tablespoonsful of fine sugar. to these the milk or cream may
then be added.
AN EXCELLENT LEMON PUDDING,
Beat well together four ounces of fresh butter creamed, and eight
of sifted sugar; to these add gradually the yolks of six and the
whites of two eggs, with the grated rind and the strained juice of one
large lemon :-this last must be added by slow degrees, and stirred
briskly to the other ingredients. Bake the pudding in a dish lined


CHAP. XX1.]
427
BAKED PUDDINGS.
oven.
with very thin puff-paste for three-quarters of an hour, in a slow
Butter, 4 oz.; sugar, 1 lb.; yolks of 6, whites of 2 eggs ; large
lemon, 1: $ hour, slow oven.
LEMON BUET PUDDING.
To half a pound of finely grated bread-crumbs, add six ounces of
fresh beef-kidney suet, free from skin, and minced very small, a
quarter of a pound of castor sugar, six ounces of currants, the grated
rind and the strained juice of a large lemon, and four full-sized or
five small well-beaten eggs; pour these ingredients into a thickly,
buttered pan, and bake the pudding for an hour in a brisk oven, but
draw it towards the mouth when it is of a fine brown colour. Turn
it from the dish before it is served, and strew sifted sugar over it or
not, at pleasure: two ounces more of suet can be added when a
larger proportion is liked. The pudding is very good without the
currants.
Bread-crumbs, 8 oz.; beef-suet, 6 oz.; pounded sugar, 3 oz.;
lemon, 1 large; currants, 6 oz.; eggs, 4 large, or 5 small : 1 hour,
brisk oven.
BAKEWELL PUDDING.
This pudding is famous not only in Derbyshire, but in several of
our northern counties, where it is usually served on all holiday-
occasions. Line a shallow tart-dish with quite an inch-deep layer of
several kinds of good preserve mixed together, and intermingle with
them from two to three ounces of candied citron or orange-rind.
Beat well the yolks of ten eggs, and add to them gradually half a
pound of sifted sugar; when they are well mixed, pour in by degrees
half a pound of good clarified butter, and a little ratifia or any other
flavour that may be preferred; fill the dish two-thirds full with this
mixture, and bake the pudding for nearly an hour in a moderate
oven. Half the quantity will be sufficient for a small dish.
Mixed preserves, 11 to 2 lbs.; yolks of eggs, 10; sugar, } lb.:
butter, 1 lb.; ratifia, lemon-brandy, or other flavouring, to the taste.
baked, moderate oven, 4 to 1 hour.
Obs. This is a rich and expensive, but not very refined pudding
A variation of it, known in the south as an Alderman's Pudding, is
we think, superior to it. It is made without the candied peel, and
with a layer of apricot-jam only, six ounces of butter, six of sugar
the yolks of six, and the whites of two eggs.
RATIFIA PUDDING.
Flavour a pint and a half of new milk rather highly with bitter
almonds, blanched and bruised, or, should their use be objected to,


428
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. XXL
with three or four bay leaves and a little cinnamon ; add a few grains
of salt, and from four to six ounces of sugar in lumps, according to
the taste. When the whole has simmered gently for some minutes.
strain off the milk through a fine sieve or muslin, put it into a clean
saucepan, and when it again boils stir it gradually and quickly to six
well-beaten eggs which have been likewise strained ; let the mixture
cool, and then add to it a glass of brandy. Lay a half-paste round a
well-buttered dish, and sprinkle into it an ounce of ratifias finely
crumbled, grate the rind of a lemon orer, and place three ounces of
whole ratifias upon them, pour in sufficient of the custard to soak
them; an hour afterwards add the remainder, and send the pudding
to a gentle oven : half an hour will bake it.
New milk, 1ļ pint ; bitter almonds, 6 or 7 (or bay leaves, 3 to 5,
and bit of cinnamon); sugar, 4 to 6 oz.; eggs, 6; brandy, 1 wine-
glassful ; ratifias, 4 oz.; rind į lemon : baked , hour.
TOE ELEGANT ECONOMIST'S PUDDING.
We have already given a receipt for an exceedingly good boiled
pudding bearing this title, but we think the baked one answers even
better, and it is made with rather more facility. Butter a deep tart-
dish well, cut the slices of plum-pudding to join exactly in lining it,
and press them against it lightly to make them adhere, as without
this precaution they are apt to float off; pour in as much custard
(previously thickened and left to become cold), or any other sweet
pudding mixture, as will fill the dish almost to the brim; cover the
top with thin slices of the plum pudding, and bake it in a slow oven
from thirty minutes to a full hour, according to the quantity and
quality of the contents. One pint of new milk poured boiling on an
ounce and a half of tous-les-mois, smoothly mixed with a quarter of a
pint of cold milk, makes with the addition of four ounces of sugar,
four small eggs, a little lemon-grate, and two or three bitter almonds,
or a few drops of ratifia, an excellent pudding of this kind; it should
be baked nearly three-quarters of an hour in a quite slow oven.
Two ounces and a half of arrow-root may be used in lieu of the tous-
les-mois.
RICH BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING.
Give a good flavour of lemon-rind and bitter almonds, or of cin-
namon, if preferred, to a pint of new milk, and when it has simmered
a sufficient time for this, strain and mix it with a quarter of a pint of
rich cream; sweeten it with four ounces of sugar in lumps, and stir
it while still hot to five well-beaten eggs; throw in a few grains of
salt, and move the mixture briskly with a spoon as a glass of brandy
is added to it. Have ready in a thickly-buttered dish three layers of
thin bread and butter cut from a half-quartern loaf, with four ounces
of currants, and one and a half of finely shred candied peel, strewed


CHAP. XX1.]
429
BAKED PUDDINGS.
between and over them ; pour the eggs and milk on them by degrees,
letting the bread absorb one portion before another is added: it should
soak for a couple of hours before the pudding is taken to the oven,
which should be a moderate one. Half an hour will bake it. It is
very good when made with new milk only; and some persons use no
more than a pint of liquid in all, but part of the whites of the eggs
may then be omitted.
Cream may be substituted for the entire
quantity of milk at pleasure.
New milk, 1 pint; rind of small lemon, and 6 bitter almonds
bruised (or | drachm of cinnamon): simmered 10 to 20 minutes.
Cream, & pint; sugar, 4 oz.; eggs, 6; brandy, 1 wineglassful. Bread
and butter, 3 layers ; currants, 4 oz.; candied orange or lemon-rind,
1} oz. : to stand 2 hours, and to be baked 30 minutes in a moderate
oven.
COMMON BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING.
Sweeten a pint and a half of milk with four ounces of Lisbon
sugar; stir it to four large well-beaten eggs, or to five small ones,
grate half a nutmeg to them, and pour the mixture into a dish which
holds nearly three pints, and which is filled almost to the brim with
layers of bread and butter, between which three ounces of currants
have been strewed. Lemon-grate, or orange-flower water can be
added to this pudding instead of nutmeg, when preferred. From
three quarters of an hour to an hour will bake it.
Milk, 14 pint; Lisbon sugar, 4 oz.; eggs, 4 large, or 5 small; ģ
small nutmeg; currants, 3 oz. : baked i to 1 hour.
A GOOD BAKED BREAD PUDDING.
Pour, quite boiling, on six ounces (or three quarters of a pint) of
fine bread-crumbs and one ounce of butter, a pint of new milk, cover
them closely, and let them stand until the bread is well soaked ; then
stir to them three ounces of sugar, five eggs, leaving out two of the
whites, two ounces of candied orange-rind, sliced thin, and a flavour-
ing of nutmeg; when the mixture is nearly or quite cold pour it iato
a dish, and place lightly over the top the whites of three eggs beaten
to a firm froth, and mixed at the instant with three large tablespoons-
ful of sifted sugar. Bake the pudding for half an hour in a moderate
oven. The icing may be omitted, and an ounce and a half of butter,
just warmed, put into the dish before the pudding, and plenty of
sugar sifted over it just as it is sent to the oven, or it may be made
without either
Bread, 6 oz. ; butter, 1 oz.; milk, 1 pirt; sugar, 3 oz.; eggs, 5
yolks, 3 whites ; candied orange-rind, 2 oz. ; little nutmeg. Icing, 3
whites of eggs; sugar, 3 tablespoonsful : baked, 1 hour


430
[CHAP. XXI
MODERN COOKERY.
ANOTHER BAKED BREAD PUDDING.
Add to a pint of new milk a quarter of a pint of good cream, and
pour them boiling on eight ounces of bread crumbs, and three of
fresh butter; when these have stood half an hour covered with a
plate, stir to them four ounces of sugar, six ounces of currants, one
and a half of candied orange or citron, and five eggs.
A GOOD SEMOULINA, OR SOUJEE PUDDING.
Drop lightly into a pint and a half of boiling milk two large
tablespoonsful of semoulina, and stir them together as this is done,
that the mixture may not be lumpy; continue the stirring from
eight to ten minutes, then throw in two ounces of good butter, and
three and a half of pounded sugar, or of the finest Lisbon; next add
the grated rind of a lemon, and, while the semoulina is still warm,
beat gradually and briskly to it five well-whisked eggs; pour it
into a buttered dish, and bake it about half an hour in a moderate
Boil the soujee exactly as the semoulina.
New milk, 14 pint; semoulina, 2} oz.; 7 to 8 minutes. Sugar, 3
oz.; butter, 2 oz.; rind of lemon; eggs, 5: baked in moderate oven,
hour. Or, soujee, 4 oz.; other ingredients as above.
oven.
FRENCH SEMOULINA PUDDING.
Or Gâteau de Semoule
Infuse by the side of the fire in a quart of new milk, the very
thin rind of a fine fresh lemon, and when it has stood for half an
hour bring it slowly to a boil: simmer it for four or five minutes,
then take out the lemon rind, and throw lightly into the milk,
stirring it all the time, five ounces of the best quality of semoulina ;*
let it boil over a gentle fire for ten minutes, then add four ounces of
sugar roughly powdered, three of fresh butter, and less than a small
quarter-teaspoonful of salt; boil the mixture for two or three
additional minutes, keeping it stirred without ceasing ; take it from
the fire, let it cool a little, and stir to it briskly, and by degrees, the
yolks of six eggs and the whites of four well beaten together, and
strained or prepared for use as directed at page 395, four or five
bitter almonds, pounded with a little sugar, will heighten the flavour
pleasantly to many tastes. When the pudding is nearly cold, pour
* As we have had occasion to state in the previous pages of this volume, we
have had semoulina, vermicelli, and various kinds of macaroni of first-rate
quality, from Mr. Cobbett, 18, Pall Mall; but they may, without doubt, be pro-
cured equally good from many other foreign warehouses.


CHAP. XXI.]
431
BAKED PUDDINGS.
it gently into a stewpan or mould, prepared as for the Gâteau de
Riz of page 433, and bake it in a very gentle oven from an hour
and a quarter to an hour and a half.
SAXE-GOTHA PUDDING, OR TOURTE.
Blanch and pound to the smoothest possible paste, a couple of
cunces of Jordan almonds, and four or five bitter ones ; add to them,
spoonful by spoonful quite at first, four eggs which have been
whisked very light; throw in gradually two ounces of pounded
sugar, and then four ounces of the finest bread crumbs. Just melt,
but without heating, two ounces of fresh butter, and add it in very
small portions to the other ingredients, beating each well to them
until it ceases to appear on the surface. Pour the paste thus
prepared upon a pint of red currants, ready mixed in a tart-dish with
four ounces of pounded sugar, and bake them gently for about half
an hour. Raspberries and currants mixed, and Kentish or morella
cherries, will make most excellent varieties of this dish : the Kentish
cherries should be stoned for it, the morellas left entire. Should the
paste be considered too rich, a part or the whole of the butter can be
omitted; or again, it may on occasion be made without the almonds;
but the reader is recommended to try the receipt in the first instance
without any variation from it. The crust will be found delicious if
well made. Like all mixtures of the kind it must be kept light by
constant beating, as the various ingredients are added to the eggs,
which should themselves be whisked to a very light froth before
they are used.
Jordan almonds, 2 oz.; bitter almonds, 4 or 5; eggs, 4; pounded
sugar, 2 oz.; bread-crumbs, 4 oz.; fresh butter, 2 oz.
Red currants,
(or other fruit) 1 pint; sugar, 4 oz.: 1 hour.
BADEN-BADEN PUDDINGS.
Prepare the same paste as for the preceding receipt, and add to it
by degrees a couple of tablespoonsfuls of fine raspberry, strawberry,
or apricot jam, which has previously been worked smooth with the
back of a spoon; half fill some buttered patty-pans or small cups
with the mixture and bake the puddings in a gentle oven from
fifteen to twenty minutes, or rather longer should it be very slow.
For variety, omit the preserve, and flavour the puddings with the
lightly grated rind of a fresh lemon, and with an ounce or so of
candied peel shred small; or with a little vanilla pounded with a
lump or two of sugar, and sifted through a hair sieve; or with from
three to four drachms of orange flowers pralineés reduced to powder ;
or serve them quite plain with a fruit sauce.


432
[CHAP. XXL
MODERN COOKERY.
SUTHERLAND OR CASTLE PUDDINGS.
Take an equal weight of eggs in the shell, of good butter, of fine
dry flour, and of sifted sugar. First, wbisk the eggs for ten minutes
or until they appear extremely light; then throw in the sugar
by degrees, and continue the whisking for four or five minutes;
next, strew in the flour, also gradually, and when it appears
smoothly blended with the other ingredients, pour the butter to
them in small portions, each of which should be beaten in until
there is no appearance of it left. It should previously be just
liquefied with the least possible degree of heat: this may be effected
by putting it into a well-warmed saucepan, and shaking it round
until it is dissolved. A grain or two of salt should be thrown in
with the flour; and the rind of half a fine lemon rasped on sugar or
grated, or some pounded mace, or any other flavour can be added at
choice. Pour the mixture directly it is ready into well-buttered
cups, and bake the puddings from twenty to twenty-five minutes.
When cold they resemble good pound cakes, and may be served as
such. Wine sauce should be sent to table with them.
Eggs, 4; their weight in flour, sugar, and butter; little salt;
flavouring of pounded mace or lemon-rind.
Obs.-- Three eggs are sufficient for a small dish of these puddings.
They may be varied with an ounce or two of candied citron; or
with a spoonful of brandy, or a little orange-flower water. The
mode we have given of making them will be found perfectly suc-
cessful if our directions be followed with exactness. In a slow oven
they will not be too much baked in half an hour.
MADELEINE PUDDINGS.
To be served cold.
Take the same ingredients as for the Sutherland puddings, but
clarify an additional ounce of butter ; skim, and then fill some round
tin pattypans with it almost to the brim; pour it from one to the
other until all have received a sufficient coating to prevent the
puddings from adhering to them, and leave half a teaspoonful in
each; mix the remainder with the eggs, sugar, and flour, beat the
whole up very lightly, fill the pans about two-thirds full, and put
them directly into a rather brisk oven, but draw them towards the
mouth of it who they are sufficiently coloured; from fifteen to
eighteen minutes will bake them. Turn them out, and drain them.
on a sheet of paper. When they are quite cold, with the point of
the knife take out a portion of the tops, hollow the puddings a little,
and fill them with rich apricot-jam, well mixed with half its weight
of pounded almonds, of which two in every ounce should be bitter
ORES


CHAP. XX1,7
433
BAKED PUDDINGS.
A GOOD FRENCH RICE PUDDING, OR GÂTEA J DE RIZ.
Swell gently in a quart of new milk, or in equal parts of milk and
cream, seven ounces of the best Carolina rice, which has been cleared
of the discoloured grains, and washed and drained; when it is
tolerably tender, add to it three ounces of fresh butter, and five of
sugar roughly powdered, a few grains of salt, and the lightly grated
rind of a fine lemon, and simmer the whole until the rice is swollen
to the utmost; then take it from the fire, let it cool a little, and stir
to it quickly, and by degrees, the well-beaten yolks of six full-sized
eggs. Pour into a small copper stewpan à couple of ounces of
clarified butter, and incline it in such a manner that it may receive
an equal coating in every part; then turn it upside down for an
instant, to drain off the superfluous butter; next, throw in some
exceedingly fine light crumbs of stale bread, and shake them.
entirely over it, turn out those which do not adhere, and with a
small brush or feather sprinkle more clarified butter slightly on
those which line the pan. Whisk quickly the whites of the eggs to
snow, stir them gently to the rice, and pour the mixture softly into
the stewpan, that the bread-crumbs may not be displaced; put
it immediately into a moderate oven, and let it remain in a full hour.
It will then, if properly baked, turn out from the mould or pan well
browned, quite firm, and having the appearance of a cake; but a
fierce heat will cause it to break, and present an altogether un-
sightly appearance. In a very slow oven a longer time must be
allowed for it.
New milk, or milk and cream, 1 quart; Carolina rice, 7 oz.: 1
hour. Fresh butter, 3 oz.; sugar, in lumps, 5 oz. ; rind, 1 large
lemon: 1 to 11 hour Eggs, 6: baked in a moderate oven, 1
hour,
Obs.-An excellent variety of this gâteau is made with cocoa-nut
flavoured milk, or cream (see Chapter XXIII.), or with either of
these poured boiling on six ounces of Jordan almonds, finely pounded,
and mixed with a dozen bitter ones, then wrung from them with
strong pressure; it may likewise be flavoured with vanilla, or with
candied orange-blossoms, and covered at the instant it is dished,
with strawberry, apple, or any other clear jelly.
A COMMON RICE PUDDING.
Throw six ounces of rice into plenty of cold water, and boil it
gently from eight to ten minutes; drain it well in a sieve or strainer,
and put it into a clean saucepan with a quart of milk; let it stew
• One which holds about five pints is well adapted to the purpose. When
this is not at hand, a copper cake-mould may be substituted for it. The
stewpan must not be covered while the gâteau is baking.
F


434
[CHAP. XXI.
DIODERN COOKERY.
until tender, sweeten it with three ounces of sugar, stir to it,
gradually, three large, or four small eggs, beaten and strained; add
giated nutmeg, lemon rind, or cinnamon to give it flavour, and
bake it one hour in a gentle oven.
Rice, 6 oz.; in water, 8 to 10 minutes. Milk, 1 quart: to 1
hour. Sugar, 3 oz.; eggs, 3 large, or 4 small; flavouring of nutmeg,
lemon-rind, or cinnamon: bake 1 hour, gentle oven.
QUITE CHEAP RICE PUDDING,
Boil the rice in water, as for a currie, and while it is still warm,
mix with it a pint and a half of milk, and three fresh or four or five
French eggs (at many seasons of the year these last, which are
always cheap, are very good, and answer excellently for puddings.)
Sweeten it with pale brown sugar, grate nutmeg on the top, and
bake it slowly until it is firm in every part.
RICHER RICE PUDDING.
Wash very clean four ounces of whole rice, pour on it a pint and
a half of new milk, and stew it slowly till quite tender; before it is
taken from the fire, stir in two ounces of good butter, and three of
sugar ; and when it has cooled a little, add four well-whisked eggs,
and the grated rind of half a lemon. Bake the pudding in a gentle
oven from thirty to forty minutes. As rice requires long boiling to
render it soft in milk, it may be partially stewed in water, the
quantity of milk diminished to a pint, and a little thick sweet cream
mixed with it, before the other ingredients are added.
Rice, 4 oz.; new milk, l) pint; butter, 2 oz. ; sugar, 3 oz. ; eggs, 4;
rind of lemon: 30 to 40 minutes, slow oven.
RICE PUDDING MERINGUÉ.
Swell gently four ounces of Carolina rice in a pint and a quarter
of milk or of thin cream; let it cool a little, and stir to it an ounce
and a half of butter, three of pounded sugar, a grain or two of salt,
the grated rind of a small lemon, and the yolks of four large, or of
five small eggs. Pour the mixture into a well-buttered dish, and
lay lightly and equally over the top the whites of four eggs beaten
as for sponge cakes, and mixed at the instant with from four to five
heaped tablespoonsful of sifted sugar Bake the pudding half an
hour in a moderate oven, but do not allow the meringue to be too
deeply coloured; it should be of a clear brown, and very crisp.
Serve it directly it is taken from the oven.
Rice, 4 oz.; milk, or cream, 11 pint; butter, 1} oz.; sugar, 3 oz.;
rind, 1 lemon; yolks of eggs, 4 or 5; the whites beaten to snow, and
mixed with as many tablespoonsful of sifted sugar: baked 1 hour,
moderate oven.


CHAP. XXI.]
435
BAKED PUDDINGS.
Obs.-A couple of ounces of Jordan almonds, with two or three
bitter ones, pounded quite to a paste, will improve this dish, whether
mixed with the pudding itself, or with the meringue.
A GOOD GROUND RICE PUDDING.
Mix very smoothly five ounces of flour of rice (or of ground rice,
if preferred), with half a pint of milk, and pour it into a pint and a
half more which is boiling fast; keep it stirred constantly over a
gentle fire from ten to twelve minutes, and be particularly careful
not to let it burn to the pan; add to it before it is taken from the
fire, a quarter of a pound of good butter, from five to six ounces of
sugar, roughly powdered, and a few grains of salt; turn it into a
pan, and stir it for a few minutes, to prevent its hardening at the
top; then mix with it, by degrees but quickly, the yolks of eight
eggs, and the whites of two, the grated or rasped rind of a fine
lemon, and a glass of brandy. Lay a border of rich paste round a
buttered dish,
pour in the pudding, strain a little clarified butter over
the top, moisten the paste with a brush, or small bunch of feathers
dipped in cold water, and sift plenty of sugar on it, but less over the
pudding itself. Send it to a very gentle oven to be baked for three-
quarters of an hour.
Rice-flour (or ground rice), 5 oz.; new milk, 1 quart: 10 to 12
minutes. Butter, 4 oz.; sugar, 5 to 6 oz.; salt, 1 saltspoonful; yolks,
8 eggs; whites, 2; rind, 1 large lemon; brandy, large wineglassful:
hour, slow oven.
Obs.—These proportions are sufficient for a pudding of larger size
than those served usually at elegant tables; they will make two
small ones; or two-thirds of the quantity may be taken for one of
moderate size. Lemon-brandy or ratifia, or a portion of each, may
be used to give it flavour, with good effect; and it may be enriched,
if this be desired, by adding to the other ingredients from three to
four ounces of Jordan almonds, finely pounded, and by substituting
cream for half of the milk.
COMMON GROUND RICE PUDDING.
One pint and a half of milk, three ounces and a half of rice, three
of Lisbon sugar, one and a half of butter, some nutmeg, or lemon-
grate, and four eggs, baked slowly for half an hour, or more, if not
quite firm.
GREEN GOOSEBERRY PUDDING.
Boil together, from ten to twelve minutes, a pound of green
gooseberries, five ounces of sugar, and rather more than a quarter of
a pint of water: then beat the fruit to a mash, and stir to it an
ounce and a half of fresh butter; when nearly, or quite cold, add


436
[CHAP. III.
MODERN COOKERY.
two ounces and a half of very fine bread crumbs, and four well
whisked eggs. Bake the pudding gently from half to three-quarters
of an hour. To make a finer one of the kind, work the fruit
through a sieve, mix it with four or five crushed Naples biscuits,
and use double the quantity of butter.
Green gooseberries, 1 lb.; sugar, 5 oz.; water, full | pint: 10 to
12 minutes. Bread-crumbs, 2 oz.; eggs, 4; } to hour.
POTATO PUDDING.
With a pound and a quarter of fine mealy potatoes, boiled very
dry, and mashed perfectly smooth while hot, mix three ounces of
butter, five or six of sugar, five eggs, a few grains of salt, and the
grated rind of a small lemon. Pour the mixture into a well-buttered
dish, and bake it in a moderate oven for nearly three-quarters of an
hour. It should be turned out and sent to table with fine sugar
siſted over it; or for variety, red currant jelly, or any other preserve,
may be spread on it as soon as it is dished.
Potatoes, 11 lb.; butter, 3 oz.; sugar, 5 or 6 oz.; eggs, 5 or 6;
lemon-rind, 1; salt, few grains: 40 to 45 minutes.
Obs.- When cold, this pudding eats like cake, and may be served
as such, omitting, of course, the sugar or preserve when it is dished.
A RICHER POTATO PUDDING.
Beat well together fourteen ounces of mashed potatoes, four
ounces of butter, four of fine sugar, five eggs, the grated rind of
a small lemon, and a slight pinch of salt; add half a glass of
brandy, and pour the pudding into a thickly-buttered dish or
mould, ornamented with slices of candied orange or lemon rind :
pour a little clarified butter on the top, and then sift plenty of
white sugar over it.
Potatoes, 14 oz.; butter, 4 oz.; sugar, 4 oz.; eggs, 5 ; lemon rind.
1; little salt; brandy, $ glassful; candied peel, 14 to 2 oz.: 40
minutes.
Obs.- The potatoes for these receipts should be lightly and care.
fully mashed, but never pounded in a mortar, as that will convert
them into a heavy paste. The better plan is to prepare them by
Captain Kater's receipt (Chapter XVII.), when they will fall to
powder almost of themselves; or they may be grated while hot
through a wire sieve. From a quarter to a half pint of cream is,
by many cooks, added always to potato puddings.
A GOOD SPONGE CAKE PUDDING.
Slice into a well-buttered tart-dish three penny sponge biscuits,
and place on them a couple of ounces of candied orange or lemon
rind cut in strips. Whisk thoroughly six eggs, and stir to them


CHAP. xxi.]
437
BAKED PUDDINGS.
boiling a pint and a quarter of new milk, in which three ounces of
sugar have been dissolved; grate in the rind of a small lemnon, and
when they are somewhat cooled, add half a wineglassful of brandy;
while still just warm, pour the mixture to the cakes, and let it
remain an hour; then strain an ounce and a half of clarified butter
over the top, or strew pounded sugar rather thickly on it, and bake
the pudding three quarters of an hour or longer in a gentle oven.
Sponge cakes, 3 ; candied peel, 2 oz.; eggs, 6; new milk, 14 pint;
sugar, 3 oz.; lemon-rind, 1; brandy, 1 glass; butter, 1 oz.; siſted
sugar, 1} oz. : 3 hour.
CAKE AND CUSTARD, AND VARIOUS OTHER INEXPENSIVE
PUDDINGS.
Even when very dry, the remains of a sponge or a Savoy cake
will serve excellently for a pudding, if lightly broken up, or
crumbled, and intermixed or not, with a few ratifias or macaroons,
which should also be broken up. A custard composed of four eggs
to the pint of milk if small, and three if very large and fresh, and
not very highly sweetened, should be poured over the cake half an
hour at least before it is placed in the oven (which should be slow);
and any flavour given to it which may be liked. An economical and
clever cook will seldom be at a loss for compounding an inexpensive
and good pudding in this way. More or less of the cake can be
used as may be convenient. Part of a mould of sweet rice or the
remains of a dish of Arocē Docē (see Chapter XXIII.), and various
cther preparations may be turned to account in a similar manner;
but the custard should be perfectly and equally mingled with what-
ever other ingredients are used. "Macaroni boiled tender in milk,
or in milk and water, will make an excellent pudding; and sago
stewed very thick, will supply another; the custard may be mixed
with this last while is still just warm. Two ounces well washed,
and slowly heated in a pint of liquid, will be tender in from fifteen
to twenty minutes. All these puddings will require a gentle oven,
and will be ready to serve when they are firm in the centre, and do
not stick to a knife when plunged into it.
BAKED APPLE PUDDING, OR CUSTARD.
Weigh a pound of good boiling apples after they are pared and
cored, and stew them to a perfectly smooth marmalade, with six
ounces of sugar, and a spoonful or two of wine ; stir them often that
they may not stick to the pan. Mix with them while they are
still quite hot, three ounces of butter, the grated rind and the
strained juice of a lemon, and lastly, stir in by degrees the well-
beaten yolks of five eggs, and a dessertspoonful of flour, or in lieu of
the last, three or four Naples' biscuits, or macaroons crushed small.
Bake the pudding for a full half hour in a moderate oren, or longer


438
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. XXL
should it be not quite firm in the middle. A little clarified butter
poured on the top, with sugar sifted over, improves all baked
puddings.
Apples 1 lb.; sugar, 6 oz.; wine 1 glassful; butter, 3 oz. ; juice
and rind, 1 lemon ; 5 eggs : 1 hour, or more.
Obs.—Many cooks press the apples through a sieve after they are
boiled, but this is not needful when they are of a good kind,
and stewed, and beaten smooth.
DUTCH CUSTARD, OR BAKED RASPBERRY PUDDING.
Lay into a tart-dish a border of puff-paste, and a pint and a half of
freshly-gathered raspberries, well mixed with three ounces of sugar.
Whisk thoroughly six large eggs with three ounces more of sugar,
and pour it over the fruit: bake the pudding from twenty-five to
thirty minutes in a moderate oven.
Break the eggs one at a time into a cup, and with the point of a
small three-pronged fork take off the specks or germs, before they
are beaten, as we have directed in page 424.
Raspberries, 11 pint; sugar, 6 oz.; eggs, 6: 25 to 30 minutes.
GABRIELLE'S PUDDING, OR SWEET CASSEROLE OF RICE.
Wash half a pound of the best Carolina rice, drain it on a hair.
sieve, put it into a very clean stewpan or saucepan, and pour on it a
quart of cold new milk. Stir them well together, and place them
near the fire that the rice may swell very gradually ; then let it
simmer as gently as possible for about half an hour, or until it begins
to be quite tender; mix with it then, two ounces of fresh butter and
two and a half of pounded sugar, and let it continue to simmer softly
until it is dry and sufficiently tender, * to be easily crushed to a
smooth paste with a strong wooden spoon. Work it to this point,
and then let it cool. Before it is taken from the fire, scrape into it
the outside of some sugar which has been rubbed upon the rind of a
fresh lemon. Have ready a tin mould of pretty form, well buttered
in every part; press the rice into it while it is still warm, smooth the
surface, and let it remain until cold. Should the mould be one which
opens at the ends, like that shown in the plate at page 344, the pudding
will come out easily; but if it should be in a plain common one, just
dip it into hot water to loosen it; turn out the rice, and then again
reverse it on to a tin or dish, and with the point of a knife mark
round the top a rim of about an inch wide; then brush some clarified
butter over the whole pudding, and set it into a brisk oven. When
it is of an equal light golden brown draw it out, raise the cover care-
fully where it is marked, scoop out the rice from the inside, leaving
* Unless the rice be boiled slowly, and very dry, it will not answer for the
masserole.


CHAP. XXI.]
439
BAKED PUDDINGS.
only a crust of about an inch thick in every part, and pour into it
some preserved fruit warmed in its own syrup, or fill it with a com-
póte of plums or peaches (see Chapter XXIII.); or with some good
apples boiled with fine sugar to a smooth rich marmalade. This is a
very good as well as an elegant dish: it may be enriched with more
butter, and by substituting cream for the milk in part or entirely
but it is excellent without either.
Rice, 1 lb.; new milk, 1 quart: 1 hour. Fresh butter, 2 oz. ;
pounded sugar, 2} oz. ; rasped rind, 1 lemon : 1 hour or more.
Obs. The precise time of baking the pudding cannot well be
specified : it only requires colour.
VERMICELLI PUDDING WITH APPLES OR WITHOUT, AND PUDDINGS
OF SOUJEE AND SEMOLA.
Drop gradually into an exact quart of boiling milk four ounces of
very fresh vermicelli
, crushing it slightly with one hand and letting
it fall gently from the fingers, and stirring the milk with a spoon
held in the other hand, to prevent the vermicelli from gathering into
lumps. Boil it softly until it is quite tender and very thick, which it
will be usually in about twenty minutes, during which time it must
be very frequently stirred; then work in two ounces of fresh butter
and four of pounded sugar; turn the mixture into a bowl or pan,
and stir it occasionally until is has cooled down. Whisk five good
eggs until they are very light, beat them gradually and quickly to
the other ingredients, add the finely grated rind of a lemon or a little
lemon-brandy or ratifia, and pour the pudding when nearly cold into
a buttered dish, and just cover the surface with apples pared, cored,
and quartered ; press them into the pudding-mixture, to the top of
which they will immediately rise again, and place the dish in a
very gentle oven for three - quarters of an hour, or longer if
needed to render the fruit quite tender. The apples should be
of the best quality for cooking; This is an exceedingly nice
pudding if well made and well baked. The butter can be omitted
to simplify it.
Milk, 1 quart; vermicelli, 4 oz.: boiled about 20 minutes. Butter,
2 oz.; (when used) pounded sugar, ở lb.; eggs, 5: baked slowly
hour or more.
For a plaiir common vermicelli pudding omit the apples and one
egg : for a very good one use six eggs, and the butter; and flavour it
delicately with orange-flower water, vanilla, or aught else that may
be preferred. We have often had an ounce or two of candied citron
sliced very thin mingled with it.
Puddings of soujee and semola are made in precisely the same
manner, with four ounces to the quart of milk, and ten minutes
boiling.


440
[CHAP. XXI.
MODERN COOKERY.
WWW.
RICE A LA VATHEK, OR RICE PUDDING A LA VATHEK
(Extremely Good.)
Blanch, and then pound
carefully to the smoothest
possible paste four ounces of
tine Jordan almonds and half
a dozen bitter ones, moisten-
mg them with a few drops of
water to prevent their oiling.
Stir to them by slow degrees a quart of boiling milk, which should
be new, wring it again closely from them through a thin cloth, which
will absorb it less than a tammy, and set it aside to cool. Wash
thoroughly, and afterwards soak for about ten minutes seven ounces
of Carolina rice, drain it well from the water, pour the almond-milk
upon it, bring it very slowly to boil, and simmer it softly until it is
tolerably tender, taking the precaution to stir it often at first that it
may not gather into lumps nor stick to the pan. Add to it two
ounces of fresh butter and four of pounded sugar, and when it is per-
fectly tender and dry, proceed with it exactly as for Gabrielle's
pudding, but in moulding the rice press it closely and evenly in, and
hollow it in the centre, leaving the edge an inch thick in every part,
that it may not break in the oven. The top must be slightly brushed
with butter before it is baked, to prevent its becoming too dry, but a
morsel of white blotting paper will take up any portion that may
remain in it. When it is ready to serve, pour into it a large jarful
of apricot jam, and send it immediately to table. If well made it will
be delicious. It may be served cold (though this is less usual), and
decorated with small thin leaves of citron-rind, cut with a minute
paste-cutter. The same preparation may be used also for Gabrielle's
pudding, and filled with hot preserved fruit, the rice scooped from the
inside being mixed with the
syrup.

GOOD YORKSHIRE PUDDING.
To make a very good and light Yorkshire pudding, take an equal
number of eggs and of heaped tablespoonsful of four, with a tea-
spoonful of salt to six of these. Whisk the eggs well, strain, and mix
them gradually with the flour, then pour in by degrees as much new
milk as will reduce the batter to the consistence of rather thin cream.
The tin which is to receive the pudding must have been placed for
some time previously under a joint that has been put down to roast
one of beef is usually preferred. Beat the batter briskly and lightly
the instant before it is poured into the pan, watch it carefully that it
may not burn, and let the edges have an equal share of the fire.
When the pudding is quite firm in every part, and well-coloured on


CHAP. XXI.]
441
BAKED PUDDINGS.
the surface, turn it to brown the under side. This is best accom-
plished by first dividing it into quarters. In Yorkshire it is made
much thinner than in the south, roasted generally at an enormous
fire, and not turned at all : currants there are sometimes added
to it.
Eggs, 6; flour, 6 heaped tablespoonsful, or from 7 to 8 oz.; milk,
nearly or quite 1 pint; salt, 1 teaspoonful: 2 hours.
Obs.- This pudding should be quite an inch thick when it is
browned on both sides, but only half the depth when roasted in the
Yorkshire mode. The cook must exercise her discretion a little in
mixing the batter, as from the variation of weight in flour, and in the
size of eggs, a little more or less of milk may be required : the whole
should be rather more liquid than for a boiled pudding.
COMMON YORKSHIRE PUDDING.
Half a pound of flour, three eggs (we would recommend a fourth),
rather more than a pint of milk, and a teaspoonful of salt.
NORMANDY PUDDING. (GOOD.)
Boil, until very soft and dry, eight ounces of rice in a pint and
a half, or rather more, of water,* stir to it two ounces of fresh butter
and three of sugar, and simmer it for a few minutes after they are
added ; then pour it out, and let it cool for use. Strip from the
stalks as many red currants, or Kentish cherries, as will fill a tart-
dish of moderate size, and for each pint of the fruit allow from three
to four ounces of sugar. Line the bottom and sides of a deep dish
with part of the rice ; next, put in a thick layer of fruit and sugar;
then one of rice and one of fruit alternately until the dish is full.
Sufficient of the rice should be reserved to form a rather thick layer
at the top: smooth this equally with a knife, sift sugar thickly on it,
or brush it with good cream, and send the pudding to a moderate
oven for half an hour, or longer, should it be large. Morella cher-
ries, with a little additional sugar, make an excellent pudding of this
kind.
COMMON BAKED RAISIN PUDDING.
Beat well together three-quarters of a pound of flour, the same
quantity of raisins, six ounces of beef-suet, finely chopped, a small
pinch of salt, some grated nutmeg, and three eggs which have been
thoroughly whisked, and mixed with about a quarter of a pint of
milk, or less than this, should the eggs be large. Pour the whole
into a buttered dish, and bake it an hour and a quarter. For a large
pudding, increase the quantities one half.
* A quart of milk can be substituted for this ; but with the fruit, water perhaps
answers better.


442
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. III.
Flour and stoned raisins, cach { lb.; suet, 6 oz. ; salt, small pinch;
nutmeg, } teaspoonful ; eggs, 3; milk, á pint: 11 hour.
A RICHIER BAKED RAISIN PUDDING.
Mix and whisk well, and lightly together, a pound of raisins
weighed after they are stoned, ten ounces of finely minced beef-suet,
three-quarters of a pound of flour, a lit:le salt, half a small nutmeg,
or the grated rind of a lemon, four large eggs, and as much milk as
may be needed to make the whole into a very thick batter: bake the
pudding a few minutes longer than the preceding one. The addition
of sugar will be found no improvement as it will render it much less
light.
Sultana raisins are well adapted to these puddings, as they contain
no pips, and from their delicate size sooner become tender in the
baking than the larger kinds.
THE POOR AUTHOR'S PUDDING.
Flavour a quart of new milk by boiling in it for a few minutes
half a stick of well-bruised cinnamon, or the thin rind of a small
lemon ; add a few grains of salt, and three ounces of sugar, and turn
the whole into a deep basin : when it is quite cold, stir to it three
well-beaten eggs, and strain the mixture into a pie-dish. Cover the
top entirely with slices of bread free from crust, and half an inch
thick, cut so as to join neatly, and buttered on both sides : bake the
pudding in a moderate oven for about half an hour, or in a Dutch
oven before the fire.
New milk, 1 quart; cinnamon, or lemon-rind; sugar, 3 oz.; little
salt; eggs, 3 ; buttered bread : baked , hour.
PUDDING A LA PAYSANNE.
(Cheap and Good.)
Fill a deep tart-dish with alternate layers of well-sugared fruit,
and very thin slices of the crumb of a light stale loaf; let the upper
layer be of fruit, and should it be of a dry kind, sprinkle over it
about a dessertspoonful of water, or a little lemon-juice : raspberries,
currants, and cherries, will not require this. Send the pudding to a
somewhat brisk oven to be baked for about half an hour. The pro-
portion of sugar used must be regulated, of course, by the acidity of
the fruit. For a quart of ripe greengages, split and stoned, five
ounces will be sufficient.
THE CURATE'S PUDDING.
This is but a variation of the pudding à la Paysanne which pre-
cedes it, but as it is both good and inexpensive it may be acceptable


CHAP. XXI.]
443
BAKED PUDDINGS.
to some of our readers. Wash, wipe, and pare some quickly grown
rhubarb-stalks, cut them into short lengths, and put a layer of them
into a deep dish with a spoonful or two of Lisbon sugar; cover these
evenly with part of a penny roll sliced thin; add another thick layer
of fruit and sugar, then one of bread, then another of the rhubarb ,
cover this last with a deep layer of fine bread-crumbs well mingled
with about a tablespoonful of sugar, pour a little clarified butter over
them, and send the pudding to a brisk oven. From thirty to forty
minutes will bake it. Good boiling apples sliced, sweetened, and
flavoured with nutmeg or grated lemon-rind, and covered with well
buttered slices of bread, make an excellent pudding of this kind, and
so do black currants likewise, without the butter.
A LIGHT BAKED BATTER PUDDING.
With three heaped tablespoonsful or about six ounces of flour mix
a small saltspoonful of salt, and add very gradually to it three fresh
eggs which have been cleared in the usual way or strained, and
whisked to a light froth. Beat up the batter well, then stir to it by
degrees a pint of new milk, pour it into a buttered dish, set it imme-
diately into a rather brisk oven, and bake it three-quarters of an hour.
If properly managed, it will be extremely light and delicate, and the
surface will be crisp. When good milk cannot be had for it, another
egg, or the yolk of one at least, should be added. Send preserved or
stewed fruit to table with it. The same mixture may be baked in
buttered cups from twenty to thirty minutes, turned out, and served
with sugar sifted thickly over.
In some counties an ounce or two of very finely minced suet is
usually mixed with baked batter puddings, which are enriched, but
not improved, we think, by the addition, but that is entirely a
matter of taste


CHAP. xxn.]
445
EGGS AND MILK.
both for cating and for putting up in store : they should be collected
in dry weather when they are required to be kept.*
TO COOK EGGS IN THE SHELL WITHOUT BOILING TUEN.
;
(An admirable receipt.)
This mode of dressing eggs is not new; it seems, indeed, to have
been known in years long past, but not to have received the attention
which its excellence deserved. We saw it mentioned with much
commendation in a most useful little periodical, called the Cottage
Gardener, and had it tested immediately with various modifications
and with entire success. After many trials, we give the following as
the best and most uniform in its results of our numerous experiments.
First, put some boiling water into a large basin-a slop-basin for
example--and let it remain for a few seconds, then turn it out, lay in
the egg (or eggs), and roll it over, to take the chill off the shell, that
it may not crack from the sudden application of heat; and pour in-
and upon the egg-quite boiling water from a kettle, until it is com-
pletely immersed ; put a plate over it instantly, and let it remain,
upon the table, for twelve minutes, when it will be found perfectly
and beautifully cooked, entirely free from all flavour and appearance
of rawness, and yet so lightly and delicately dressed as to suit even
persons who cannot take eggs at all when boiled in the usual way.
It should be turned when something more than half done, but the
plate should be replaced as quickly as possible. Two eggs will re-
quire scarcely more time than one'; but some additional minutes must
be allowed for any number beyond that. The process may always
be quickened by changing the water when it has cooled a little, for
more that is fast boiling : the eggs may, in fact, be rendered quite
hard by the same means, but then no advantage is obtained over the
old method of cooking them.
12 minutes
Obs.—This is one of the receipts which we have re-produced here
from our cookery for invalids, on account of its adaptation to the
taste generally
TO BOIL EGGS IN THE SHELL.
Even this very simple process demands a certain degree of care, for
if the eggs be brought from a cold larder, and suddenly plunged into
boiling water they will frequently break immediately, and a large
portion will often escape from the shells. In winter they should be
* For a sea-store, an old and experienced cook from on board & man-of-war,
directs eggs to be rubbed with salt butter, and packed in layers with plenty of
bran between them. He says that the salt penetrates the shell, and tends to
preserve the eggs, which will require no additional salt when eaten. We give the
information to the reader as we received it.


446
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. XXI
held for an instant over the steam from the saucepan before they
are laid in, and they should be put gently into it. Three minutes
will boil them sufficiently for persons who like the whites in a par-
tially liquid state. Five minutes, exact time, if they be fresh and fine,
will harden the whites only, and leave the yolks still liquid. Few
eaters require them more dressed than this; but eight or ten minutes
will render them hard. Eggs should always be cooked in sufficient
water to cover them completely.
To boil very lightly, 3 minutes; to render the whites firm, 44 to 5
minutes ; hard eggs, 8 to 10 minutes (15 minutes for salad
dressing.)
TO DRESS THE EGGS OF THE GUINEA FOWL AND BANTAM.

The eggs of the Guinea-fowl-
which are small, very prettily
shaped, and of a pale or full fawn-
colour (for in this they vary)—are
much esteemed by epicures, being
very rich and excellent eating. They
are generally somewhat higher in
price than the common hens' eggs,
even in Norfolk, Suffolk, and other
counties where they most abound; and in London they are usually
expensive. They may be cooked in the shell without boiling by the
method we have already given : eight or nine minutes will cook
them so. About three and a half of gentle boiling will render the
whites firm, and ten will harden them quite through. They are often
served instead of plovers' eggs, and are sent to table embedded in
moss in the same manner. They may also be shelled, and used whole
to decorate a salad.
The eggs of the bantam, which are scarcely more than half the
size of these, and of which the shells are much thinner, will require
less time to cook. They form an elegant decoration for a salad, if
boiled hard, which they will become in five or six minutes; and for a
mince of fowl, or veal and oysters, when poached.
Two minutes' poaching in an enamelled saucepan* will be sufficient
for these delicate little eggs, without positive boiling. They should
be carefully broken and put gently into water at boiling point, but
which has ceased to move, and left undisturbed by the side of the fire
until the yolks are just set on the surface.
Guinea-fowls' eggs, quite hard, 10 minutes. For eating (by new
method, 8 to 9 minutes), 3 to 4 minutes.
Bantams', hard, 6 minutes ; soft, 24 to 3 minutes.
• In any other kind, an additional half minute may be required.


CHAP. XXI.]
447
EGGS AND MILK.
TO DRESS TURKEYS' EGGS.
Turkeys' eggs are not, we believe, brought very abundantly into
the London market,* but their superiority to those of the common
fowl is well known in the counties where the birds are principally
reared. Though of large size they are delicate in flavour, and are
equally valuable for the breakfast-table-cooked simply in the shell-
or for compounding any of the dishes for which hens' eggs are com-
monly in request. They make super-excellent sauce, omlets, cus-
tards, and puddings; and are especially to be recommended poached,
or served by any other of the following receipts. Those of the
smallest size and palest colour, which are the
eggs of the young birds,
are the best adapted for serving boiled in the shells: they are some-
times almost white. Those of the full grown turkeys are thickly
speckled, of a deep tawny hue or fawn colour.
6 minutes will render the whites firm; 4 minutes will poach
them.
FORCED TURKEYS' EGGS (OR SWANS').
(An Excellent Entremets.)
Boil gently for twenty minutes in plenty of water, that they may
be entirely covered with it, five or six fresh turkeys' eggs, and when
they are done lift them into a large pan of water to cool. By chang-
ing the water once or twice they will become cold more rapidly, and
they must not be used until they are perfectly so.
Roll them in a cloth, pressing lightly on them to break the shells ;
clear them off, and halve the eggs evenly lengthwise. Take out the
yolks with care, and pound them to a smooth paste in a mortar with
an ounce and a half, or two ounces at the utmost, of pure-flavoured
butter to the half dozen, a small half-teaspoonful of salt, a little finely
grated nutmeg, and some cayenne, also in fine powder : a little mace,
-one of the most delicate of all seasonings when judiciously used —
may be added with good effect. Blend these ingredients thoroughly,
and then add to them by degrees one raw hen's egg slightly whisked,
and the yolk of a second, or a dessertspoonful or two of sweet rich
One common egg is sufficient for four of the turkey egg-
yolks. Beat up the mass, which will now be of the consistence of a
thick batter, well and lightly, and proceed to fill the whites with it,
having first cut a small slice from each half to make it stand evenly
on the dish, and hollowed the inside with the point of a sharp knife,
so as to render it of equal thickhess throughout. Fill them full and
Constant supplies of them are brought from France to the towns upon the
coast; and from the thickness of their shells they remain eatable much longer
than the common eggs; they are also reasonable in price.
cream.


448
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. ITIL
high ; smooth the yolks gently with the blade of a kniſe, arrange the
eggs on a dish, and place them in a gentle oven for a quarter of an
hour. Serve them directly they are taken from it.
The eggs thus dressed will afford an admirable dish for the second
course, either quite simply served, or with good gravy highly tla-
voured with fresh mushrooms, poured under them.
The same ingredients may be pressed into very small buttered cups
and baked for fifteen minutes, then turned on to a dish and sauced
with a little Espagnole, or other rich brown gravy, or served
without.
Obs.-We would recommend that the whites of swans' eggs, which
as we have said are extremely beautiful, should be filled with tte
above preparation in preference to their own yolks: they will of
course, require longer baking.
TO BOIL A swan's EGG HARD.
Swans' eggs are much more delicate than from their size, and from
the tendency of the birds to feed on fish might be supposed ; and
when boiled hard and shelled, their appearance is beautiful, the white
being of remarkable purity and transparency. Take as much water
as will cover the egg (or eggs) well in every part, let it boil quickly,
then take it from the fire, and as soon as the water ceases to move
put in the egg, and leave it by the side of the fire-without allowing
it to boil - for twenty minutes, and turn it gently once or twice in
the time; then put on the cover of the stewpan and boil it gently for
a quarter of an hour; take it quite from the fire, and in five minutes
put it into a basin and throw a cloth, once or twice folded, over it,
and let it cool slowly It will retain the heat for a very long time,
and as it should be quite cold before it is cut, it should be boiled
early if wanted to serve the same day. Halve it evenly with a sharp
knife lengthwise, take out the yolk with care, and prepare it for
table, either by the receipt which follows, or by that for forced eggs,
Chapter VI.
SWAN'S EGG, EN SALADE.
We found that the yolk of the egg, when boiled as above, could
be rendered perfectly smooth and cream-like, by mashing it on a
dish * with a broad-bladed knife, and working it well with the other
ingredients : the whole was easily blended into a mass of uniform
colour, in which not the smallest lump of butter or egg was percepti-
hle. Mix it intimately with an ounce or two of firm fresh butter.
ther high seasoning of cayenne, some salt, or a teaspoonful or
Wessence of anchovies, and about as much of chili vinegar or
department:nced, when we received our first present of swan's eggs, to be in a
there was no morlar-a common deficiency in English culinary
house whe.


CHAP. XXI.]
449
EGGS AND MILK.
lemon-juice. To these minced herbs or eschalots can be added at
pleasure. Fill the whites with the mixture, and serve them in a
bowl two-thirds filled with salad, sauced as usual ; or use them merely
as a decoration for a lobster or German salad.
TO POACH EGGS.
Take for this purpose a wide and delicately clean pan about half-
filled with the clearest spring-water; throw in a small saltspoonful
of salt, and place it over a fire quite free from smoke. Break some
new.laid eggs into separate cups, and do this with care, that the yoks
may not be injured. When the water boils, draw back the pan, slide
the eggs gently into it, and let them stand until the whites appear
almost set, which will be in about a minute : then, withoui shaking
them, move the pan over the fire, and just simmer thern from two
minutes and a half to three minutes. Lift them out separately with
a slice, trim quickly off the ragged edges, and serve them upon
dressed spinach, or upon minced veal, turkey, or chicken; or dish
them for an invalid, upon delicately toasted bread, sliced thick, and
freed from crust: it is an improvement to have the bread buttered,
but it is then less waolesome.
Comparative time of poaching eggs. Swans' eggs, 5 to minutes.
(In basin, 10 minutes.) Turkeys' eggs 4 minutes. Hens' eggs, 3 to
31 minutes. Guinea-fowls', 2 to 3 minutes. Bantams', 2 minutes.
Obs.--All eggs may be poached without boiling if kept just at sim-
mering point, but one boil quite at last will assist to detach them from
the stewpan, from which they should always be very carefully lifted
on what is called a fish or egg-slice. There are pans made on pur-
pose for poaching and frying them in good form; but they do not,
we believe, answer particularly well. If broken into cups slightly
rubbed with butter, and simmered in them, their roundness of shape
will be best preserved.
POACHED EGGS WITH GRAVY. (ENTREMETS.)
Eufs Pochés au Jus.
Dress the eggs as above, giving them as good an appearance as
possible, lay them into a very hot dish, and sauce them with some
rich, clear, boiling veal gravy, or with some Espagnole. Each egg,
for variety, may be dished upon a crouton of bread cut with a fluted
paste.cutter, and fried a pale brown: the sauce should then be poured
round, not over them.
Poaching is the best mode of dressing a swan's egg,* as it renders it
more than any other delicate in flavour; it is usually served on a bed
of spinach. Only the eggs of quite young swans are suited to the
* We fear that want of space must compel ns to omit some other receipts for
swans' eggs, which we had prepared for this chapter.
GG


450
MODERN COOKERY.
LCHAP. XXIII.
table: one is sufficient for a dish. It may be laid on a large crouton
of fried bread, and sauced with highly flavoured gravy, or with
tomata-sauce well seasoned with eschalots.
CUFS AU PLAT.
A pewter or any other metal plate or dish which will bear the fire,
must be used for these. Just melt a slice of butter in it, then put in
some very fresh egus broken as for poaching ; strew a little pepper
and salt on the top of each, and place them over a gentle fire until
the whites are quite set, but keep them free from colour.
This is a very common mode of preparing eggs on the continent;
but there is generally a slight rawness of the surface of the yolks
which is in a measure removed by ladling the boiling butter over
them with a spoon as they are cooking, though a salamander held
above them for a minute would have a better effect. Four or five
minutes will dress them.
Obs.We hope for an opportunity of inserting further receipts for
dishes of eggs at the end of this volume.
MILK AND CREAM.
Without possessing a dairy, it is quite possible for families to have
always a sufficient provision of milk and cream for their con-
sumption, provided there be a clean cool larder or pantry where it
can be kept. It should be taken from persons who can be depended
on for supplying it pure, and if it can be obtained from a dairy near
at hand it will be an advantage, as in the summer it is less easy to
preserve it sweet when it has been conveyed from a distance. It
should be poured at once into well-scalded pans or basins kept ex-
clusively for it, and placed on a very clean and airy shelf, apart from
all the other contents of the larder. The fresh milk as it comes in
should be set at one end of the shelf, and that for use shouid be
taken from the other, so that none may become stale from being mis-
placed or overlooked. The cream should be removed with a per.
forated skimmer (or skimming-dish as it is called in dairy-counties)
which has been dipped into cold water to prevent the cream, when
thick, from adhering to it. Twelve hours in summer, and twenty-
four in winter, will be sufficient time for the milk to stand for
“creaming," though it may often be kept longer with advantage.
Between two and three pints of really good milk will produce about
a quarter of a pint of cream. In frosty weather the pans for it
should be warmed before it is poured in. If boiled when first
brought in, it will remain sweet much longer than it otherwise
would ; but it will then be unfit to serve with tea; though it may be
heated afresh and sent to table with coffee; and used also for pud.
dings, and all other varieties of milk-diet.


CHAP. XXII.]
451
EGGS AND MILK.
DEVONSHIRE, OR CLOTTED CREAM.
From the mode adopted in Devonshire, and in some other coun-
ties, of scalding the milk in the following manner, the cream becomes
very rich and thick, and is easily converted into excellent butter. It
is strained into large shallow metal pans as soon as it is brought into
the dairy and left for twelve hours at least in summer, and thirty-six
in cold weather. It is then gently carried to a hot plate-heated by
a fire from below-and brought slowly to a quite scalding heat but
without being allowed to boil or even to simmer. When it is
ready to be removed, distinct rings appear on the surface, and small
bubbles of air. It must then be carried carefully back to the dairy,
and may be skimmed in twelve hours afterwards. The cream should
be well drained from the milk-which will be very poor--as this
is done It may then be converted into excellent butter, merely by
beating it with the hand in a shallow wooden tub, which is, we are
informed, the usual manner of making it in small Devonshire
dairies.
DU LAIT A MADAME,
Boil a quart of new milk, and let it cool sufficiently to allow the
cream to be taken off; then rinse an earthen jar well in every part
with buttermilk, and while the boiled milk is still rather warm, pour
it in and add the cream gently on the top. Let it remain twenty-
four hours, turn it into a deep dish, mix it with pounded sugar, and
it will be ready to serve. This preparation is much eaten abroad
during the summer, and is considered very wholesome. The milk,
by the foregoing process, becomes a very soft curd, slightly, but not
at all unpleasantly, acid in flavour. A cover, or thick folded cloth,
should be placed on the jar after the milk is poured in, and it should
be kept in a moderately warm place. In very sultry weather less
time may be allowed for the milk to stand.
Obs. - We give this and the following receipt from an unpublished
work which we have in progress, being always desirous to make such
information as we possess generally useful as far as we can.
CURDS AND WHEY,
Rennet is generally prepared for dairy-use by butchers, and kept
in farmhouses hung in the chimney corners, where it will remain
good a long time. It is the inner stomach of the calf, from which
the curd is removed, and which is salted and stretched out to dry on
splinters of wood, or strong wooden skewers. It should be preserved
from dust and smoke (by a paper-bag or other means), and portions
of it cut off as wanted. Soak a small bit in half a teacupful of warm
water, and let it remain in it for an hour or two; then pour into


452
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. IUI.
a quart of warm new milk a dessertspoonful of the rennet-liquor,
and keep it in a warm place until the whey appears separated from
the curd, and looks clear. The smaller the proportion of rennet
used, the more soft and delicate will be the curd. We write these
directions from recollection, having often had the dish thus prepared,
but having no memorandum at this moment of the precise proportions
used. Less than an inch square of the rennet would be sufficient, we
think, for a gallon of milk, if some hours were allowed for it to turn.
When rennet-whey, which is a most valuable beverage in many cases
of illness, is required for an invalid to drink, a bit of the rennet, after
being quickly and slightly rinsed, may be stirred at once into the
warm milk, as the curd becoming hard is then of no consequence. It
must be kept warm until the whey appears and is clear. It may then be
strained, and given to the patient to drink, or allowed to become cold
before it is taken. In feverish complaints it has often the most benign
effect.
Devonshire junket is merely a dish or bowl of sweetened curds and
whey, covered with the thick cream of scalded milk, for which see
page 45!.


454
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. XXIII.
water, and sprinkled with resin in fine powder; then covered with
boiling water and left for a minute or two untouched before they
were scraped ;” and this method we had followed with entire success
for a long time, but we afterwards discovered that the resin was
not necessary, and that the feet could be quite as well prepared by
mere scalding, or being laid into water at the point of boiling, and
kept in it for a few minutes by the side of the fire. The hair, as we
have already stated in the first pages of Chapter IX. (Veal), must
be very closely scraped from them with a blunt-edged knife; and
the hoofs must be removed by being struck sharply down against
the edge of a strong table or sink, the leg-bone being held tightly
in the hand. The feet must be afterwards washed delicately clean
before they are further used. When this has been done, divide
them at the joint, split the claws, and take away the fat that is
between them. Should the feet be large, put a gallon of cold water
to the four, but from a pint to a quart less if they be of moderate
size or small. Boil them gently down until the flesh has parted
entirely from the bones, and the liquor is reduced nearly or quite
half; strain, and let it stand until cold ; remove every particle of fat
from the top before it is used, and be careful not to take the
sediment.
Calf's feet (large), 4; water, 1 gallon : 6 to 7 hours.
TO CLARIFY CALF'S FEET STOCK.
Break up a quart of the stock, put it into a clean stewpan with
the whites of five large or of six small eggs, two ounces of sugar, and
the strained juice of a small lemon; place it over a gentle fire, and do
not stir it after the scum begins to form ; when it has boiled five or
six minutes, if the liquid part be clear, turn it into a jelly-bag, and
pass it through a second time should it not be perfectly transparent
the first. To consumptive patients, and others requiring restoratives,
but forbidden to take stimulants, the jelly thus prepared is often very
acceptable, and may be taken with impunity, when it would be highly
injurious made with wine. More white of egg is required “o clarify
it than when sugar and acid are used in larger quantities, as both of
these assist the process. For blanc-mange omit the lemon-juice, and
mix with the clarified stock an equal proportion of cream (for an
invalid, new milk), with the usual flavouring, and weight of sugar;
or pour the boiling stock very gradually to some finely pounded
almonds, and express it from them as directed for Quince Blamange,
allowing from six to eight ounces to the pint,
Stock, 1 quart; whites of eggs, 5; sugar, 2 oz.; juice, 1 small
lemon: 5 to 8 minutes.
TO CLARIFY ISIYGLASS.
The finely-cut purified isinglass, which is now in general use, re-
quires no clarifying except for clear jellies : for all other dishes it is


CHAP. XX111.)
455
SWEET DISHES, OR ENTREMETS,
sufficient to dissolve, skim, and pass it through a muslin strainer.
When two ounces are required for a dish, put two and a half into a
delicately clean pan, and pour on it a pint of spring water which has
been gradually mixed with a teaspoonful of beaten white of egg ; stir
these thoroughly together, and let them heat slowly by the side of a
gentle fire, but do not allow the isinglass to stick to the pan. When
the scum is well risen, which it will be after two or three minutes'
simmering, clear it off, and continue the skimming until no more
appears; then, should the quantity of liquid be more than is needed,
reduce it by quick boiling to the proper point, strain it through a
thin muslin, and set it by for use : it will be perfectly transparent,
and may be mixed lukewarm with the clear and ready sweetened
juice of various fruits, or used with the necessary proportion of syrup,
for jellies flavoured with choice liqueurs. As the clarifying reduces
the strength of the isinglass-or rather as a portion of it is taken up
by the white of egg-an additional quarter to each ounce must be
allowed for this: if the scum be laid to drain on the back of a fine
sieve which has been wetted with hot water, a little very strong jelly
will drip from it.
Isinglass, 2) oz.; water, 1 pint; beaten white of egg, 1 tea-
spoonful.
Obs.-At many Italian warehouses a preparation is now sold under
the name of isinglass, which appears to us to be highly purified
gelatine of some other kind. It is converted without trouble into a
very transparent jelly, is free from flavour, and is less expensive than
the genuine Russian isinglass; but when taken for any length of
time as a restorative, its different nature becomes perceptible. It
answers well for the table occasionally; but it is not suited to
invalids.
SPINACII GREEN, FOR COLOURING SWEET DISHES, CONFECTIONARY,
OR SOUPS.
Pound quite to a pulp, in a marble or Wedgewood mortar, a hand-
ful or two of young freshly-gathered spinach, then throw it into a
hair sieve, and press through all the juice which can be obtained from
it; pour this into a clean white jar, and place it in a pan of water
that is at the point of boiling, and which must be allowed only to
just simmer afterwards; in three or four minutes the juice will be
poached or set : take it then gently with a spoon, and lay it upon the
back of a fine sieve to drain. If wanted for immediate use, merely
mix it in the mortar with some finely-powdered sugar ;* but if to be
kept as a store, pound it with as much as will render the whole
tolerably dry, boil it to candy-height over a very clear fire, pour it
out in cakes, and keep them in a tin box or canister. For this last
preparation consult the receipt for orange-flower candy.
* For soup, dilute it first with a little of the boiling stock, and stir it to the
remainder,


456
(CHAP. XXII
MODERN COOKERY.
PREPARED APPLE OR QUINCE JUICE.
Pour into a clean earthen pan two quarts of spring water, and
throw into it as quickly as they can be pared, quartered, and
weighed, four pounds of nonsuches, pearmains, Ripstone pippins, or
any other good boiling apples of fine flavour. When all are done,
stew them gently until they are well broken, but not reduced quite
to pulp; turn them into a jelly-bag, or strain the juice from them
without pressure through a closely-woven cloth, which should be
gathered over the fruit, and tied, and suspended above a deep pan
until the juice ceases to drop from it: this, if not very clear, must be
rendered so before it is used for syrup or jelly, but for all other pur-
poses once straining it will be sufficient. Quinces are prepared in the
same way, and with the same proportions of fruit and water, but they
must not be too long boiled, or the juice will become red. We have
found it answer well to have them simmered until they are perfectly
tender, and then to leave them with their liquor in a bowl until the
following day, when the juice will be rich and clear. They should
be thrown into the water very quickly after they are pared and
weighed, as the air will soon discolour them.
The juice will form a
jelly much more easily if the cores and pips be left in the fruit
Water, 2 quarts ; apples or quinces, 4 lbs.
COCOA-NUT FLAVOURED MILK.
(For sweet dishes, foc.)
Pare the dark outer rind from a very fresh nut, and grate it on a
fine and exceedingly clean grater, to every three ounces pour a quart
of new milk, and simmer them very softly for three quarters of an
hour, or more, that a full flavour of the nut may be imparted to the
milk without its being much reduced : strain it through a fine sieve, or
cloth, with sufficient pressure to leave the nut almost dry: it may
then be used for blanc-mange, custards, rice, and other puddings,
light cakes and bread.
To each quart new milk, 3 oz. grated cocoa-nut: to 1 hour.
Obs.—The milk of the nut when perfectly sweet and good, may be
added to the other with advantage To obtain it, bore one end of the
shell with a gimlet, and catch the liquid in a cup; and to extricate
the kernel, break the shell with a hammer : this is better than sawing
it asunder.
COMPÔTES OF FRCIT.
(Or Fruit stewed in Syrup.)
We would especially recommend these delicate and very agreeable
rations for trial to such of our readers as may be unacquainted


CHAP. XXI.]
457
SWEET DISHES, OR ENTREMETS.
with them, as well as to those who may have a distaste to the com-
mon“ stewed fruit” of English cookery. If well made they are
peculiarly delicious and refreshing, preserving the pure flavour of
the fruit of which they are composed; while its acidity is much
softened by the small quantity of water added to form the syrup in
which it is boiled. They are also more economical than tarts or
puddings, and infinitely more wholesome.
In the second course
pastry-crust can always be served with them, if desired, in the form
of ready baked leaves, round cakes, or any more fanciful shapes; or a
border of these may be fastened with a little white of egg and flour
round the edge of the dish in which the compôte is served; but rice,
or macaroni simply boiled, or a very plain pudding is a more usual
accompaniment.
Compotes will remain good for two or three days in a cool store-
room, or somewhat longer, if gently boiled up for an instant a second
time; but they contain generally too small a proportion of sugar to
preserve them from mould or fermentation for many days. The
syrup should be enriched with a larger quantity when they are in-
tended for the desserts of formal dinners, as it will increase the trans-
parency of the fruit : the juice is always beautifully clear when the
compôtes are carefully prepared. They should be served in glass
dishes, or in compôtiers, which are of a form adapted to them.
Compôte of spring fruit.—(Rhubarb). Take a pound of the stalks
after they are pared, and cut them into short lengths; have ready a
quarter of a pint of water boiled gently for ten minutes with tive
ounces of sugar, or with six should the fruit be very acid ; put it in,
and simmer it for about ten minutes. Some kinds will be tender in
rather less time, some will require more.
Obs.—Good sugar in lumps should be used for these dishes.
Lisbon sugar will answer for them very well on ordinary occasions,
but that which is refined will render them much more delicate.
Compôte of green currants.-Spring water, half-pint; sugar, five
ounces; boiled together ten minutes. One pint of green currants
stripped from the stalks ; simmered five minutes.
Compóte of green gooseberries. This is an excellent compôte iſ
made with fine sugar, and very good with any kind. Break five
ounces into small lumps and pour on them half a pint of water ; boil
these gently for ten minutes, and clear off all the soum; then add to
them a pint of fresh gooseberries freed from the tops and stalks,
washed, and well drained. Simmer them gently from eight to ten
minutes, and serve them hot or cold. Increase the quantity for a
large dish.
Compôte of green apricots.— Wipe the down from a pound of quite
young apricots, and stew them very gentiy for nearly twenty minutes
in syrup made with eight ounces of sugar and three-quarters of a pint
of water, boiled together the usual time.
Compôte of red currants.-A quarter of a pint of water and five
ounces of sugar : ten minutes. One pint of currants freed from the


458
MODERN COOKERY,
[CHAP. XXIIL
stalks to be just simmered in the syrup from five to seven minutes.
This receipt will serve equally for raspberries, or for a compote of
the two fruits mixed together. Either of them will be found an ad-
mirable accompaniment to a pudding of batter, custard, bread, or
ground rice, and also to various other kinds of puddings, as well
as to whole rice plainly boiled.
Compôte of Kentish or Flemish cherries.—Simmer five ounces of
sugar with half a pint of water for ten minutes; throw into the syrup
a pound of cherries weighed after they are stalked, and let them stew
gently for twenty minutes : it is a great improvement to stone the
fruit, but a larger quantity will then be required for a dish.
Compóte of Morella cherries.- Boil together for fifteen minutes,
six ounces of sugar with half a pint of water; add a pound and a
quarter of ripe Morella cherries, and simmer them very softly from
five to seven minutes : this is a delicious compóte. A larger propor-
tion of sugar will often be required for it, as the fruit is very acid in
some seasons, and when it is not fully ripe
Compéte of damsons.-Four ounces of sugar and half a pint of
water to be boiled for ten minutes ; one pound of damsons to be
added, and simmered gently from ten to twelve minutes.
Compote of the green magnum-bonum or Mogul plum.—The green
Mogul plums are often brought abundantly into the market when the
fruit is thinned from the trees, and they make admirable tarts or
compôtes, possessing the fine slight bitter Havour of the unripe apricot,
to which they are quite equal. Measure a pint of the plums without
their stalks, and wash them very clean; then throw them into a
syrup made with seven ounces of sugar in lumps, and half a pint of
water, boiled together for eight or ten minutes. Give the plums one
quick boil
, and then let them stew quite softly for about five minutes,
or until they are tender, which occasionally will be in less time even.
Take off the scum, and serve the compôte hot or cold.
Compote of the magnum-bonum, or other large plums.-Boil six
ounces of sugar with half a pint of water the usual time; take the
stalks from a' pound of plums, and simmer them very softly for
twenty minutes. Increase the proportion of sugar if needed, and
regulate the time as may be necessary for the ditferent varieties of
fruit.
Compóte of bullaces.— The large, or shepherds' bullace, is very
goed stewed, but will require a considerable portion of sugar to
render it palatable, unless it be quite ripe. Make a syrup with half
a pound of sugar, and three-quarters of a pint of water, and boil in
it gently from fifteen to twenty minutes, a pint and a half of the
bullaces freed from their stalks.
Compote of Siberian crabs.—To three-quarters of a pint of water
add six ounces of fine sugar, boil them for ten or twelve minutes, and
skim them well. Add a pound and a half of Siberian crabs without
their stalks, and keep them just at the point of boiling for twenty
rinutes; they will then become tender without bursting. A few


CHAP. XXII.]
459
SWEET DISHES AND ENTREMETS.
strips of lemon-rind and a little of the juice are sometimes added to
this compôte.
Obs.-In a dry warm summer, when fruit ripens freely, and is rich
in quality, the proportion of sugar directed for these compótes would
generally be found sufficient; but in a cold or wet season it would
certainly, in many instances, require to be increased. The present
slight difference in the cost of sugars, renders it a poor economy to
use the raw for dishes of this class, instead of that which is well re-
fined. To make a clear syrup it should be broken into lumps, not
crushed to powder. Almost every kind of fruit may be converted
into a good compóte.
COMPÔTE OF PEACHES.
Pare half a dozen ripe peaches, and stew them very softly from
eighteen to twenty minutes, keeping them often turned in a light
syrup, made with five ounces of sugar, and half a pint of water boiled
together for ten minutes. Dish the fruit; reduce the syrup by quick
boiling, pour it over the peaches, and serve them hot for a second-
course dish, or cold for dessert. They should be quite ripe, and will
be found delicious dressed thus. A little lemon-juice may be added
to the syrup, and the blanched kernels of two or three peach or
apricot stones.
Sugar, 5 oz.; water, } pint• 10 minutes. Peaches, 6: 18 to 20
minutes.
Obs.-Nectarines, without being pared, may be dressed in the same
way, but will require to be stewed somewhat longer, unless they be
quite ripe.
ANOTHER RECEIPT FOR STEWED PEACHES.
Should the fruit be not perfectly ripe, throw it into boiling water
and keep it just simmering, until the skin can be easily stripped off.
Have ready half a pound of fine sugar boiled to a light syrup with
three-quarters of a pint of water; throw in the peaches, let them
stew softly until quite tender, and turn them often that they may be
equally done; after they are dished, add a little strained lemon-juice
to the syrup, and reduce it by a few minutes' very quick boiling;
The fruit is sometimes pared, divided, and stoned, then gently stewed
until it is tender.
Sugar, 8 oz. ; water, 1 pint: 10 to 12 minutes. Peaches, 6 or 7;
lemon-juice, 1 large teaspoonful.
COMPÔTE OF BARBERRIES FOR DESSERT.
When this fruit is first ripe it requires, from its excessive acidity,
nearly its weight of sugar to render it palatable; but after hanging
some time upon the trees it becomes much mellowed in flavour, and


460
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. XXIIL
may be sufficiently sweetened with a smaller proportion. According
to the state of the fruit then, take for each pound (leaving it in
bunches) from twelve to sixteen ounces of sugar, and boil it with
three-quarters of a pint of water until it forms a syrup. Throw in
the bunches of fruit, and simmer them for five or six minutes. If
their weight of sugar be used, they will become in that time perfectly
transparent. As all vessels of tin affect the colour of the barberries,
they should be boiled in a copper stewpan, or in a German enamelled
one, which would be far better.
Barberries, 1 lb. ; sugar, 12 to 16 oz.; water, pint fruit sim-
mered in syrup, 5 to 6 minutes.
BLACK CAPS PAR EXCELLENCE.
(For the Second-course, or for Dessert.)
Cut a dozen fine Norfolk biffins in two without paring them, scoop
out the cores, and fill the cavities with thin strips of fresh lemon-rind
and with candied orange-peel. Cover the bottom of a flat shallow tin
with a thick layer of fine pale brown sugar, press the two halves of
each apple together, and place them closely in the tin; pour half a
bottle of raisin or of any other sweet wine over them, and be careful
to moisten the tops of all; sift white sugar thickly on them, and set
the tin into a very hot oven at first, that the outsides of the apples
may catch or become black; then draw them to the mouth of the
oven, and bake them gently until they are soft quite through. The
Norfolk biffin answers for this dish far better than any other kind of
apple, but the winter queening, and some few firm sorts beside, can
be used for it with fair success. These for variety may be cored
without being divided, and filled with orange marmalade. The blac's
caps served hot, as a second-course dish, are excellent.
Norfolk biffins, 12; rinds fresh lemons, 1 to 2; candied orange-
rind, 2 to 3 oz.; pale brown sugar, lb.; raisin or other wine, i
bottle ; little sifted sugar to 1 hour, or more.
Obs.—The apples dressed as above resemble a rich confection, and
will remain good for ten days or a fortnight; sometimes much longer
The receipt is an admirable one.
even.
GATEAU DE POMMES.
Boil together for fifteen minutes a pound of well-refined sugar and
half a pint of water; then add a couple of pounds of nonsuches, or of
any other finely-flavoured apples which can be boiled easily to a
smooth pulp, and the juice of a couple of small, or of one very large
lemon. Stew these gently until the mixture is perfectly free from
lumps, then boil it quickly, keeping it stirred, without quitting it,
until it forms a very thick and dry marmalade. A few minutes
before it is done add the finely grated rinds of a couple of lemons;


CHAP. XXII.]
461
SWEET DISHES, OR EXTREMEI S.
when it leaves the bottom of the preserving-pan visible and dry,
press it into moulds of tasteful form; and either store it for winter
use, or if wanted for table, serve it plain for dessert, or ornament it
with spikes of blanched almonds, and pour a custard round it for a
second-course dish (entremets).
Sugar, 1 lb.; water, pint: 15 minutes. Nonsuches or other
apples, 2 lbs. ; juice, 1 large or 2 small lemons : 2 hours or more.
GATEAU OF MIXED FRUITS. (GOOD).
Extract the juice from some fresh red currants by simmering them
very gently for a few minutes over a slow fire: strain it through a
folded muslin, and to one pound of it add a pound and a half of non-
suches or of freshly gathered codlings, pared, and rather deepiy cored,
that the fibrous part of the apple may be avoided. Boil these quite
slowly until the mixture is perfectly smooth, then, to evaporate part
of the moisture, let the boiling be quickened. Iu from twenty-five
to thirty minutes draw the pan from the fire, and throw in gradually
a pound and a quarter of sugar in fine powder: mix it well with the
fruit, and when it is dissolved continue the boiling rapidly for twenty
minutes longer, keeping the mixture constantly stirred ; put it into a
mould, and store it, when cold, for winter use, or serve it for dessert,
or for the second course : in the latter case decorate it with spikes of
blanched almonds, or pistachio-nuts, and heap solid whipped cream
round it, or pour a custard into the dish. For dessert it may be
garnished with dice of the palest apple-jelly,
Juice of red currants, 1 lb.; nonsuches, or codlings (pared and
cored), 1 lb. ; 25 to 30 minutes. Sugar, 14 lb.: 20 minutes.
Obs.-A portion of raspberries, if still in season, may be mixed
with the currants for this gâteau, should the flavour be liked.
For other and excellent varieties of gâteaux of fruit, see Newton
solid, and damson solid, Chapter XXIV. Ripe peaches and non-
suches will likewise do well for it. Codlings answer perfectly for the
preceding receipt, and the preparation is of fine colour and very
pleasant flavour: it ought to cut in clear firm slices. Other varieties
of fruit can be mingled in the same manner.
JELLIES.
CALF'S FEET JELLY. (ENTREMETS.)
We hear inexperienced housekeepers frequently complain of the
difficulty of rendering this jelly perfectly transparent; but by mixing
with the other ingredients, while quite cold, the whites, and the
crushed shells of a sufficient number of eggs, and allowing the head
of scum which gathers on the jelly to remain undisturbed after it


462
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. XXII.
once forms, they will scarcely fail to obtain it clear. It should be
strained through a thick flannel, or beaver-skin, bag of a conical
form (placed before the fire, should
the weather be at all cold, or the
mixture will jelly before it has run
through), and if not perfectly clear
it must be strained, again and
again, until it becomes so; though
we generally find that once suffices.
Mix thoroughly in a large stewpan
five half-pints of strong calf's feet
stock (sce page 453), a full pint of
sherry, half a pound of sugar
roughly powdered, the juice of two Modern Jelly Mould.
fine lemons, the rind of one and a half cut very thin, the whites and
shells of four large eggs, and half an ounce of isinglass. Let these
remain a few minutes off the fire, that the sugar may dissolve more
easily; then let the jelly be brought to boil gradually, and do not
stir it after it begins to heat. When it has boiled gently for sixteen
minutes, draw it from the fire, and let it stand a short time before it
is poured into a jelly-bag, under which a bowl should be placed to
receive it. When clear and cool, put it into moulds which have been
laid for some hours in water: these should always be of earthenware
in preference to metal. If to be served in glasses, or roughed, the
jelly will be sufficiently firm without the isinglass, of which, however,
we recommend a small quantity to be thrown in always when the
jelly begins to boil, as it facilitates the clearing.
Čalf's feet stock, 2 pints; sugar, 1 lb.; sherry, 1 pint; juice of
lemons, 2 large; rind of 1}; whites and shells of eggs, 4 large, or 5
small : 16 minutes.
Obs. 1.—After the jelly has dropped through the bag, an exceed-
ingly agreeable beverage may be obtained by pouring in some boiling
water; from one to three half pints, according to the
quantity of jelly
which has been made. The same plan should be pursued in making
orange or lemon jelly for an invalid.
Obs. 2.-As it is essential to the transparency of calf's feet jelly of
all kinds that the whole of the ingredients should be quite cold when
they are mixed, and as the stock can only be measured in a liquid
state, to which it must be reduced by heating, the better plan is, to
measure it when it is first strained from the feet, and to put apart the
exact quantity required for a receipt; but when this has not been
done, and it is necessary to liquefy it, it must be left until quite cold
again before it is used. For the manner of preparing and clarifying
it, see the beginning of this chapter

ANOTHER RECEIPT FOR CALF'S FEET JELLY.
To four calf's feet well cleaned and divided, pour a gallon of water


CHAP. XXIII.]
463
SWEET DISHES, OR ENTREMETS.
and let them stew until it is reduced to rather less than two quarts ;
or if, after the flesh has quite fallen from the bones, the liquor on
being strained off should exceed that quantity, reduce it by rapid
boiling in a clean uncovered pan over a very clear fire. When it is
perfectly firm and cold, take it clear of fat and sediment, and add to
it a bottle of sherry, which should be of good quality (for poor, thin
wines are not well adapted to the purpose), three-quarters of a pound
of sugar broken small, the juice of five large or of six moderate-sized
lemons, and the whites, with the shells finely crushed, of seven eggs,
or of more should they be very small. The rinds of three lemons,
pared exceedingly thin, nay be thrown into the jelly a few minutes
before it is taken from the fire; or they may he put into the jelly-bag
previously to its being poured through, when they will impart to it a
slight and delicate flavour, without deepening its colour much. If it
is to be moulded, something more than half an ounce of isinglass
should be dropped lightly in where the liquid becomes visible through
the head of scum, when the mixture begins to boil; for if not suffi-
ciently firm, it will break when it is dished. It may be roughed, or
served in glasses without this addition ; and in a liquid state will be
found an admirable ingredient for Oxford, or other punch.
Calf's feet, 4; water, 1 gallon: to be reduced more than half.
Sherry, 1 bottle; sugar, i lb. (more to taste); juice of 5 large lemons,
or of six moderate-sized; whites and shells of 7 eggs, or more if
small ; rinds of lemons, 3 (for moulding, nearly (oz. of isinglass):
15 to 20 minutes.
Obs.-An excellent and wholesome jelly for young people may be
made with good orange or raisin wine, instead of sherry; to either of
these the juice of three or four oranges, with a small portion of the
rind, may be added instead of part of the lemons.
MODERN VARIETIES OF CALF'S FEET JELLY.
In modern cookery a number of excellent jellies are made with
the stock of calves' feet, variously flavoured. Many of them are com-
pounded entirely without wine, a small quantity of some fine liqueur
being used as a substitute; and sometimes cinnamon, or vanilla, or
Seville orange-rind with a slight portion of acid, takes place of this.
For aristocratic tables, indeed, it is the present fashion to serve them
very lightly and delicately flavoured. Their cost is thus materially
diminished. Fresh strawberries dropped into clear calf's feet jelly
just before it sets, impart a delicious fragrance to it, when they are of
a choice kind; and other fruit is mingled with it often; but none
has so good an effect, though many sorts when tastefully employed
give an excellent appearance to it. "The Belgrave mould, of which
the description will be found at page 470, is well adapted for highly
ornamental jellies; and we recommend its adoption for this class of
dishes.


464
[chal. XX1
MODERN COOKERY.
APPLE CALF'S FEET JELLY.
Pour a quart of prepared apple-juice (see page 456), on a pound
of fresh apples pared and cored, and simmer them until they are well
broken ; strain the juice, and let it stand until cold ; then measure,
and put a pint and a half of it into a stew pan with a quart of calf's
feet stock (see page 453), nine ounces of sugar broken small, or
roughly pounded, the juice of two fine lemons, and the thin rinds of
one and a half, with the whites and shells of eight eggs. Let it boil
gently for ten minutes, then strain it through a flannel-bag, and
when cool put it into moulds. It will be very clear, and firm, and of
pleasant flavour. Apples of good quality should be used for it, and
the quantity of sugar must be regulated by the time of year, as the
fruit will have lost much of its acidity during the latter part of the
season. This receipt, which is the result of our own experiment, and
which we have found very successful, was first tried just after
Christmas, with pearmains and Ripstone pippins. A little syrup of
preserved ginger, or a small glass of fine white brandy, would,
perhaps, to some tastes, improve the jelly; but we give it simply as
we have had it proved ourselves.
Prepared apple juice, 1 quart ; fresh apples, 1 lb. : } to hour.
Strained juice, 14 pint; calf's feet stock, 1 quart; sugar, 9 oz. ; juice
of lemons, 2 ; rind of 1}; whites and shells of eggs, 8: 10 minutes.
Ovs. We would recommend the substitution of quinces for apples
in this receipt as likely to afford a very agreeable variety of the
jelly: or equal portions of the two fruits might answer well.
Ünless the stock be very stiff, add isinglass to this, as to the calf's
feet jelly, when it is to be moulded.
ORANGE CALF'S FEET JELLY.
(Author's Receipt.)
To a pint and a half of firm calf's feet stock, put a pint of strained
China-orange juice mixed with that of one or two lemons; add to
these six ounces of sugar, broken small, the very thin rinds of three
oranges and one lemon, and the whites of six eggs with half the
shells crushed small. Stir these gently over a clear fire until the
head of scum begins to form, but not at all afterwards. Simmer the
jelly for ten minutes from the first full boil ; take it from the fire, let
it stand a little, then pour it through a jelly-bag until perfectly
clear. This is an original, and entirely new receipt, which we can
recommend to the reader, the jelly being very pale, beautifully
transparent, and delicate in flavour: it would, we think, be peculiarly
acceptable to such invalids as are forbidden to take wine in any
form.
The proportions both of sugar and of lemon-juice must be some-
that varied according to the season in which the oranges are used.


CHAP. xxm.] SWEET DISHES, OR ENTREMETS.
465
Strong calf's feet stock, 1ļ pint ; strained orange-juice, mixed with
a small portion of lemon-juice, 1 pint; sugar, 6 oz. ; rinds of
oranges, 3; of lemon, 1: 10 minutes.
Obs.-A small pinch of isinglass thrown into the jelly when it
begins to boil will much assist to clear it. When the flavour of
Seville oranges is liked, two or three can be used with the sweet ones
ORANGE ISINGLASS JELLY.
To render this perfectly transparent the juice of the fruit must be
filtered, and the isinglass clarified ; but it is not usual to take so much
trouble for it. Strain as clear as possible, first through a sieve or
muslin, then through a thick cloth or jelly bag, one quart of China
orange-juice, mixed with as much lemon-juice as will give it an agree-
able degree of acidity, or with a small proportion of Seville orange-
juice. Dissolve two ounces and a half of isinglass in a pint of water,
skim it well, throw in half a pound of sugar, and a few strips of
the orange-rind, pour in the orange-juice, stir the whole well
together, skim it clean without allowing it to boil, strain it through a
cloth or through a muslin, many times folded, and when nearly cold
put it into the moulds.* This jelly is sometimes made without any
water, by dissolving the isinglass and sugar in the juice of the fruit.
Orange-juice, 1 quart; water, 1 pint; isinglass, 24 oz. ; sugar, 1 lb.
VERY FINE ORANGE JELLY.
(Susser Place Receipt.)
On two ounces and a half of the finest isinglass, pour a full but an
exact pint of spring water; press down the isinglass and turn it over
until the whole is well moistened; then place it over a gentle fire and
let it dissolve gradually; remove the scum after it has simmered for
two or three minutes, then pour it out, and set it aside to cool. In
another pint of spring water boil a pound of highly refined sugar for
five or six minutes ; turn this syrup into a bowl, and when it is only
just warm, throw into it the very thinly pared rinds of two fine
lemons, of two Seville oranges, and of two China oranges, with the
juice of five China, and of two Seville oranges, and of three lemons.
When this mixture is cold, but not beginning to thicken, mix it well
with the liquid isinglass, and strain it through a fine lawn sieve, or
through a square of muslin folded in four; pour it into moulds
which have been laid in cold water, and when wanted for the table,
loosen it from them by wrapping about them, closely, a cloth which has
been dipped into boiling water, and by passing a knife round the edges.
Nothing can be more refined and delicate in flavour than the
above; but the appearance of the jelly may be improved by clari-
fying the isinglass, and its colour by boiling the fruit-rinds in the
syrup for three or four minutes, and by leaving them in it until it is
• In France, orange-jelly is very commonly served in the halved rinds of the
fruit, or in little baskets made as we shall hereafter direct, page 400.
вц


466
MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXI.
strained. The oranges and lemons, if good, will yield from two-
thirds to three-quarters of a pint of juice, and the quantity of jelly
will be sufficient to fill one large high mould, or two smaller ones
which contain about a pint and a quarter each.
When the isinglass is clarified, allow half an ounce more of it; take
about a teaspoonful of the white of a fresh egg, beat it a little, add
the pint of cold water to it, whisk them together for a minute or two,
and then pour them on the isinglass; stir it occasionally as it is
heating, but not after the head of scum is formed : boil it gently for
two or three minutes, skim, and strain it. The oranges and lemons
should be dipped into fresh water and wiped dry before they are
pared ; and should a muslin strainer (that is to say, a large square of
common clean muslin) be used for the jelly, it should be laid after
being washed in the usual manner into plenty of hot water, and then
into cold, and be well rinsed in, and wrung from each.
ORANGES FILLED WITI JELLY.
This is one of the fanciful
dishes which make a pretty
appearance on a supper table,
and are acceptable when much
variety is desired. Take some
very fine China oranges, and
with the point of a small
knife cut out from the top of
each a round about the size of
a shilling ; then with the
small end of a tea or an egg
spoon, empty them entirely,
taking great care not to break
the rinds. Throw these into
cold water, and make jelly of the juice, which must be well pressed
from the pulp, and strained as clear as possible. Colour one half a fine
rose colour with prepared cochineal, and leave the other very pale;
when it is nearly cold, drain and wipe the orange rinds, and fill them
with alternate stripes of the two jellies; when they are perfectly cold
cut them into quarters, and dispose them tastefully in a dish with a
few light branches of myrtle between them. Calf's feet or any other
variety of jelly, or different blanc-manges, may be used at choice to fill
the rinds; the colours, however, should contrast as much as possible.
TO MAKE ORANGE BASKETS FOR JELLY.
The oranges for these should be large. First, mark the handle of
the basket evenly across the stalk end of the fruit with the back of a
small knife, or with a silver one, and let it be quite half an inch
wide ; then trace a line across from one end of the handle to the
other exactly in the middle of the orange, and when the other side


CHAP. XXIII.] SWEET DISHES, OR ENTREMETS.
467
is marked in the same way, cut just through the rind with the point
of a penknife, being careful not to pierce the fruit itself; next, with
a tea or dessertspoon, take of the quartered rind on either side of the
handle; pass a penknife under the handle itself; work the point of a
spoon gently between the orange and the basket, until they are
separated in every part; then take the fruit between the thumb and
fingers, and press it carefully out through one of the spaces on either
side of the handle.
Baskets thus made may be filled with any of the jellies of which
the receipts are given here: but they should be nearly cold before
they are poured in; and they ought also to be very clear. Some of
the baskets may be filled with ratifias, and dished alternately with
those which contain the jelly.
LEMON CALF'S FEET JELLY.
Break up a quart of strong calf's feet stock, which should have
been measured while in a liquid state; let it be quite clear of fat and
sediment, for which a small additional quantity should be allowed;
add to it a not very full half-pint of strained lemon-juice, and ten
ounces of sugar, broken small (rather more or less according to the
state of the fruit), the rind of one lemon pared as thin as possible, or
of from two to three when a full flavour of it is liked, and the whites
with part of the shells crushed small, of five large or of six small
eggs. Proceed as for the preceding jellies, and when the mixture
has boiled five minutes throw in a small pinch of isinglass; continue
the boiling for five or six minutes longer, draw the pan from the fire,
let it stand to settle; then turn it into the jelly-bag. We have
found it always perfectly clear with once passing through; but
should it not be so, pour it in a second time.
Strong calf's feet stock, 1 quart; strained lemon-juice, short
pint; sugar, 10 oz. (more or less according to state of fruit);
rind of from 1 to 3 large lemons; whites and part of shells of 5 large
or 6 small eggs : 5 minutes. Pinch of isinglass : 5 minutes longer.
Obs.--About seven large lemons will produce the half pint of
juice. This quantity is for one mould only. The jelly will be found
almost colourless unless much of the rinds be used, and as perfectly
transparent as clear spring water: it is also very agreeable in flavour.
For variety, part of the juice of the fruit might be omitted, and its
place supplied by maraschino, or any other rich white liqueur of
appropriate flavour; and to render it safer eating, some syrup of
preserved ginger would be an excellent addition.
CONSTANTIA JELLY.
Infuse in a pint of water for five minutes the rind of half a Sevillo
orange, pared extremely thin; add an ounce of isinglass ; and when
this is dissolved throw in four ounces of good sugar in lumps ; stir


468
MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. IIII.
well, and simmer the whole for a few minutes, then mix with it four
large wineglassesful of Constantia, and strain the jelly through a fine
cloth of close texture ; let it settle and cool, then pour it gently from
any sediment there may be, into a mould which has been laid for an
hour or two into water. We had this jelly made in the first instance
for an invalid who was forbidden to take acids, and it proved so
agreeable in flavour that we can recommend it for the table. The
isinglass
, with an additional quarter of an ounce, might be clarified,
and the sugar and orange-rind boiled with it afterwards.
Water, 1 pint; rind, 1 Seville orange : 5 minutes. Isinglass,
1 oz.; sugar, 4 oz.: 5 to 7 minutes. Constantia, 4 large wine-
glassesful.
RHUBARB ISINGLASS JELLY.
(Author's Original Receipt. Good.)
A jelly of beautiful tint, and excellent flavour, may be made with
fresh young rhubarb-stems, either of the giant or dwarf kind, if they
be of a bright pink colour. Wash, and drain or wipe them; slice
without paring them, taking them quite free from any coarse or
discoloured parts. Put two pounds and a half, and a quart of
water into an enamelled stewpan, which is more suitable to the
purpose than any other; throw in two ounces of sugar in lumps,
and boil the rhubarb very gently for twenty minutes, or until
it is thoroughly stewed, but not sufficiently so to thicken the juice.
Strain it through a muslin folded in four; measure a pint and a half
of it; heat it afresh in a clean pan; add an ounce and a half of the
finest isinglass, and six ounces or more of the best sugar in large
lumps ; stir it often until the isinglass is entirely dissolved, then let
it boil quickly for a few minutes to throw up the scum ; clear this
off carefully, and strain the jelly twice through a muslin strainer, *
folded as the first ; let it cool, and mould it as usual.
STRAWBERRY ISINGLASS JELLY.
A great variety of equally elegant and excellent jellies for the
table may be made with clarified isinglass, clear syrup, and the juice
of almost any kind of fresh fruit; but as the process of making them
is nearly the same for all, we shall limit our receipts to cne or two,
which will serve to direct the makers for the rest. Boil together
quickly for fifteen minutes one pint of water and three-quarters of a
pound of very good sugar; measure a quart of ripe richly-flavoured
strawberries without their stalks; the scarlet answer best, from the
rolour which they give: on these pour the boiling syrup, and let
them stand all night. The next day clarify two ounces and a half of
isinglass in a pint of water, as directed at the beginning of this
. These muslin strainers should be large, as it is necessary to fold them in
general to a quarter of their original size, to render them sufficiently thick for
clearing juice or jelly.


CHAP. XXII.] SWEET DISHES, OR ENTREMETS.
469
chapter ; drain the syrup from the strawberries very closely, add to
it two or three tablespoonsful of red currant juice, and the clear
juice of one large or two small lemons; and when the isinglass is
nearly cold mix the whole, and put it into moulds. The French,
who excel in these fruit-jellies, always mix the separate ingredients
when they are almost cold; and they also place them over ice for an
hour or so after they are moulded, which is a great advantage, as
they then require less isinglass, and are in consequence much more
delicate. When the fruit abounds, instead of throwing it into the
syrup, bruise lightly from three to four pints, throw two table-
spoonsful of sugar over it, and let the juice How from it for an hour
or two; then pour a little water over, and use the juice without
boiling, which will give a jelly of finer flavour than the other.
Water, 1 pint; sugar, { lb. : 15 minutes. Strawberries, 1 quart ;
isinglass, 24 oz.; water, 1 pint (white of egg, 1 to 2 teaspoonsful);
juice, 1 large or 2 small lemons.
FANCY JELLIES.
No. 1,
No. 2.
Description of Belgrade
Mould.
Figure No. 1, repre-
sents the mould in its B
entireness. No. 2,
shows the interior of
it (inverted). 4 is a
thin metal plate which
when turued down-
wards forms the bot.
EPLAY
tom of the mould, and
which is perforated in
* MANUE
six places to permit
the fluted columns B
to pass through it.
There is also a larger
RECISTERS
aperture in the middle
to admit the centre
MOU
cylinder. The plate is
fixed, and the whole
is held in its place by the part which folds over the larger scallop D at either end. There is
also a cover which fits to the mould, and which is pressed on it before it is dipped into waier,
to prevent its getting into the cylinders.


PATENT

Transparent jelly is shown to much ad-
vantage, and is particularly brilliant in
appearance, when moulded in shapes re-
sembling that of the engraving here, which
are now very commonly used for the
purpose.
The centre spaces can be filled, after the
jelly is dished, with very light whipped
cream, coloured and flavoured so as to cat
agreeably with it, and to please the eye as well : this may he


470
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. XXIIL
tastefully garnished with preserved, or with
fresh fruit; but one of more recent invention,
called the Belgrave mould (which is to be had
of the originators, Messrs. Temple and Rey-
nolds, Princes Street, Cavendish Square, and
also at 80, Motcomb Street, Belgrave Square),
is of superior construction for the purpose, as
it contains a large central cylinder and six
smaller ones, which when withdrawn, after the
jelly-which should be poured round, but not
into them-is set, leave vacancies which can be filled either with
jelly of another colour, or with fruit of different kinds (which must
be secured in its place with just liquid jelly poured carefully in after
it is arranged), or with blanc-mange, or any other isinglass-cream.
The space occupied by the larger cylinder may be left empty, or
filled," before the jelly is served, with white or with pale-tinted
whipped cream. Water, only sufficiently warm to detach the jelly
from them without heating or melting it, must be poured into the
cylinders to unfix them; and to loosen the whole so as to unmould
it easily, a cloth wrung out of very hot water must be wound round
it, or the mould must be dipped quickly into some which is nearly or
quite boiling. A dish should then be laid on it, it should be care-
fully reversed, and the mould lifted from it gently. It will some-
times require a slight sharp blow to detach it quite.
Italian jelly is made by half filling a mould of convenient form,
and laying round upon it in a chain, as soon as it is set, some blanc-
mange made rather firm, and cut of equal thickness and size, with a
small round cutter; the mould is then filled with the remainder of
the jelly, which must be nearly cold, but not beginning to set.
Biandied morella cherries, drained very dry, are sometimes dropped
into moulds of pale jelly ; and fruits, either fresh or preserved, are
arranged in them with exceedingly good effect when skilfully
managed'; but this is best accomplished by having a mould for the
purpose, with another of smaller size fixed in it by means of slight
wires, which hook on to the edge of the outer one. By pouring
water into this it may easily be detached from the jelly; the fruit is
then to be placed in the space left by it, and the whole filled up with
more jelly: to give the proper effect, it must be recollected that the
dish will be reversed when sent to table.
QUEEN MAB'S PUDDING.
(An Elegant Summer Dish.)
Throw into a pint of new milk the thin rind of a small lemon, and
six or eight bitter almonds, blanched and bruised; or substitute for
these half a pod of vanilla cut small, heat it slowly by the side of the
fire, and keep it at the point of boiling until it is strongly flavoured,
then add a small pitch of salt, and three-quarters of an ounce of the


472
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. xxn.
stigar, about the third of a pod of vanilla, cut small, and well
bruised, and a strip or two of fresh lemon-rind, pared extremely thin
Give these a minute's boil, and then keep them quite hot by the
side of the fire, until a strong flavour of the vanilla is obtained
Now, mix gradually with the chestnuts half a pint of rich, unboiled
cream, strain the other half pint through a fine muslin, and work the
whole well together until it becomes very thick; then stir to it a
couple of ounces of dried cherries, cut into quarters, and two of
candied citron, divided into very small dice. Press the mixture into
a mould which has been rubbed with a particle of the purest salad.
oil, and in a few hours it will be ready for table. The cream should
be sufficiently stiff, when the fruit is added, to prevent its sinking to
the bottom, and both kinds should be dry when they are used.
Chestnuts, large, 24; water, 1 pint; sugar, 2 oz. ; isinglass, į oz. ;
water, 3 to 4 tablespoonsful ; cream, nearly ) pint; vanilla, 1 of pod;
lemon-rind, & of large : infuse 20 minutes or more. Unboiled
cream, 1 pint ; dried cherries, 2 oz.; candied citron, 2 oz.
Obs. When vanilla cannot easily be obtained, a little noyau may
be substituted for it, but a full weight of isinglass must then be
used.
CRÊME A LA COMTESSE, OR THE COUNTESS'S CREAM.
Prepare as above, boil and pound, eighteen fine sound chestnuts;
mix with them gradually, after they have been pressed through a
fine sieve, half a pint of rich sweet cream ; dissolve in half a pint of
new milk a hall-ounce of isinglass, then add to them from six to
eight bitter almonds, blanched and bruised, with two-thirds of the
rind of a small lemon, cut extremely thin, and two ounces and a
half of sugar; let these simmer gently for five minutes, and then
remain by the side of the fire for awhile. When the milk is strongly
flavoured, strain it through muslin, press the whole of it through,
and stir it by degrees to the chestnuts and cream; beat the mixture
smooth, and when it begins to thicken, put it into a moald rubbed
with oil, or into one which has been dipped in water and shaken
nearly free of the moisture. If set into a cool place, it will be ready
for table in six or eight hours. It has a pretty appearance when
partially stuck with pistachio-nuts, blanched, dried, and cut in
spikes, their bright green colour rendering them very ornamental to
dishes of this kind: as they are, however, much more expensive than
almonds, they can be used more sparingly, or intermingled with
spikes of the firm outer rind of candied citron.
Chestnuts, 18; water, full | pint; sugar, 1 oz.: 15 to 25 minutes,
Cream, 1 pint ; new milk, , pint; isinglass, 1 oz.; bitter
almonds, 6 to 8; lemon-rind, two-thirds of 1; sugar, 2 oz.*
* The proportions both of this and of the preceding cream must be increased
for a large mould.
or more,


CHAP. XXI.] SWEET DISHES, OR ENTREMETS.
473
Obs. This is a very delicate kind of sweet dish, which we can
particularly recommend to our readers; it may be rendered more
recherché by a flavouring of maraschino, but must then have a little
addition of isinglass. The preparation, without this last ingredient,
will be found excellent iced.
AN EXCELLENT TRIFLE.
Take equal parts of wine and brandy, about a wineglassful of each,
or two-thirds of good sherry or Madeira, and one of spirit, and
soak in the mixture four sponge-biscuits, and half a pound of maca-
roons and ratifias ; cover the bottom of the trifle-dish with part of
these, and pour upon them a full pint of rich boiled custard made
with three-quarters of a pint, or rather more, of milk and cream
taken in equal portions, and six eggs; and sweetened, flavoured
and thickened by the receipt of page 481; lay the remainder of the
soaked cakes upon it, and pile over the whole, to the depth of two or
three inches, the whipped syllabub of page 476, previously well
drained ; then sweeten and flavour slightly with wine only, less than
half a pint of thin cream (or of cream and milk mixed); wash and
wipe the whisk, and whip it to the lightest possible froth: take it off
with a skimmer and heap it gently over the trifle.
Macaroons and ratifias, 1 lb.; wine and brandy mixed, pint; rich
boiled custard, 1 pint; whipped syllabub (see page 476); light
froth to cover the whole, short ) pint of cream and milk mixed;
sugar, dessertspoonful ; wine, ) glassful.
SWISS CREAM, OR TRIFLE.
(Very Good.)
Flavour pleasantly with lemon rind and cinnamon, a pint of rich
cream, after having taken from it as much as will mix smoothly to
a thin batter four teaspoonsful of the finest flour; sweeten it with
six ounces of well-refined sugar in lumps; place it over a clear fire
in a delicately clean saucepan, and when it boils stir in the flour, and
simmer it for four or five minutes, stirring it gently without ceasing;
then pour it out, and when it is quite cold mix with it by degrees
the strained juice of two moderate-sized and very fresh lemons.
Take a quarter of a pound of macaroons, cover the bottom of a
glass dish with a portion of them, pour in a part of the cream, lay
the remainder of the macaroons upon it, add the rest of the cream,
and ornament it with candied citron sliced thin. It should be made
the day before it is wanted for table. The requisite flavour may be
given to this dish by infusing in the cream the very thin rind of a
lemon, and part of a stick of cinnamon slightly bruised, and then
straining it before the flour is added ; or, these and the sugar may be
boiled together with two or three spoonsful of water, to a strongly


474
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. XXIII
flavoured syrup, which, after having been passed through a muslin
strainer, may be stirred into the cream. Some cooks boil the
cinnamon and the grated rind of a lemon with all the other in-
gredients, but the cream has then to be pressed through a sieve after
it is made, a process which it is always desirable to avoid. It may be
flavoured with vanilla and maraschino, or with orange-blossoms at
pleasure; but is excellent made as above.
Rich cream, 1 pint; sugar, 6 oz.; rind, 1 lemon; cinnamon,
1 drachm; flour, 4 teaspoonsful; juice, 2 lemons; macaroons, 4 oz. ;
candied citron, 1 to 2 oz.
TIPSY CAKE, OR BRANDY TRIFLE.
The old-fashioned mode of preparing this dish was to soak, a
light sponge or Savoy cake in as much good French brandy as it
could absorb; then, to stick it full of blanched almonds cut into
whole-length spikes, and to pour a rich cold boiled custard round it.
It is more usual now to pour white wine over the cake, or a mixture
of wine and brandy; with this the juice of half a lemon is sometimes
mixed

--
Chantilly Basket.
FILLED WITH WHIPPED CREAM AND FRESH STRAWBERRIES
Take a mould of any sort that will serve to form the basket on,
just dip the edge of some macaroons into melted barley sugar, and
fasten them together with it; take it out of the mould, keep it in a
dry place until wanted, then fill it high with whipped strawberry
cream which has been drained on a sieve from the preceding day,
and stick very fine ripe strawberries over it. It should not be filled
til ust before it is served.


CHAP XXIII.] SWEET DISHES, OR. ENTREMETS.
475
VERY GOOD LEMON CREAMS MADE WITHOUT CREAM.
Pour over the very thin rinds of two moderate-sized but perfectly
sound fresh lemons and six ounces of sugar, half a pint of spring
water, and let them remain for six hours ; then add the strained
juice of the lemons, and five fresh eggs well beaten and also strained;
take out the lemon-rind, and stir the mixture without ceasing over a
gentle fire until it has boiled softly from six to eight minutes : it will
not curdle as it would did milk supply the place of the water and
lemon-juice. The creams are, we think, more delicate, though not
quite so thick, when the yolks only of six eggs are used for them.
They will keep well for nearly a week in really cold weather.
Rinds of lemons, 2; sugar, 6 oz. (or 8 when a very sweet dish is
preferred); cold water, ) pint: 6 hours. Juice of lemons, 2; eggs,
5: to be boiled softly 6 to 8 minutes.
Obs.—Lemon creams may, on occasion, be more expeditiously pre-
pared, by rasping the rind of the fruit upon the sugar which is used
for them; or, by paring it thin, and boiling it for a few minutes with
the lemon-juice, sugar, and water, before they are stirred to the
eggs.
FRUIT CREAMS, AND ITALIAN CREAMS.
These are very quickly and easily made, by mixing with good
cream a sufficient proportion of the sweetened juice of fresh fruit, or
of well-made fruit jelly or jam, to flavour it: a few drops of prepared
cochineal may be added to deepen the colour when it is required for
any particular purpose. A quarter of a pint of strawberry or of
raspberry jelly will fully flavour a pint of cream: a very little lemon-
juice improves almost all compositions of this kind. "When jam is
used it must first be gradually mixed with the cream, and then
worked through a sieve, to take out the seed or skin of the fruit.
All fresh juice, for this purpose, must of course, be cold ; that of
strawberries is best obtained by crushing the fruit and strewing
sugar over it. Peaches, pine-apple, apricots, or nectarines, may be
simmered for a few minutes in a little syrup, and this, drained well
from them, will serve extremely well to mix with the cream when it
has become thoroughly cold: the lemon-juice should be added to all
of these. When the ingredients are well blended, lightly whisk or
mill them to a froth; take this off with a skimmer as it rises, and lay
it upon a fine sieve reversed, to drain, or if it is to be served in
glasses, fill them with it at once.
Italian creams are either fruit-flavoured only, or mixed with wine
like syllabubs, then whisked to a stiff froth and put into a perforated
mould, into which a muslin is first laid ; or into a small hair-sieve
(which must also first be lined with the muslin), and left to drain
until the following day, when the cream must be very gently turned
out, and dished, and garnished, as fancy may direct


476
[CHAP. S XUL
MODERN COOKERY.
VERY SUPERIOR WHIPPED SYLLABUBS.
Weigh seven ounces of fine sugar and rasp on it the rinds of two
fresh sound lemons of good size, then pound or roll it to powder, and
put it into a bowl with the strained juice of the lemons, two large
glasses of sherry, and two of brandy; when the sugar is dissolved
add a pint of very fresh cream, and whisk or mill the mixture well;
take off the froth as it rises, and put it into glasses. These syllabubs
will remain good for several days, and should always be made if
possible, four-and-twenty hours before they are wanted for table.
The full flavour of the lemon-rind is obtained with less trouble than
in rasping, by paring it very thin indeed, and infusing it for some
hours in the juice of the fruit.
Sugar, 7 oz.; rind and juice of lemons, 2; sherry, 2 large wine-
glassesful ; brandy, 2 wineglassesful; cream, i pint.
Obs.— These proportions are sufficient for two dozens or more of
syllabubs : they are often made with almost equal quantities of wine
and cream, but are considered less wholesome without a portion of
brandy
BLANC-MANGES.
GOOD COMMON BLANC-MANGE, OR BLANC-MANGER.
(Author's Receipt.)
Infuse for an hour in a pint and
a half of new milk the very thin
rind of one small, or of half a
large lemon and four or five
bitter almonds, blanched and
bruised," then add two ounces
of sugar, or rather more for per-
sons who like the blanc-mange
very sweet, and an ounce and a
half of isinglass. Boil them gently
Blamange or Cake Mould.
over a clear fire, stirring them often until this last is dissolved; take
off the scum, stir in half a pint, or rather more, of rich cream, and
strain the blanc-mange into a bowl; it should be moved gently with a
spoon until nearly cold to prevent the cream from settling on the
surface. Before it is moulded, mix with it by degrees a wineglassful
of brandy.
New milk, 1ļ pint; rind of lemon, } large or whole small; bitter
almonds, 8; infuse 1 hour. Sugar, 2 to 3 oz.; isinglass, 1} oz.: 10
minutes. Cream, i pint; brandy, 1'wineglassful.
• These should always be very sparingly used.


CHAP. XXIII.]
SWEET DISHES.
479
ends be held and twisted different ways by two persons, to express
the cream from the almonds; put the juice again on the fire, with
half a pound of sugar, and when it boils, throw in nearly an ounce of
fine isinglass; simmer the whole for five minutes, take off the scum,
stir the blanc-mange until it is nearly cold, then mould it for table.
Increase the quantity both of this and of the preceding blanc-mange,
when a large dish of either is required.
Quince-juice, 1 pint; Jordan almond, 4 oz.; sugar, 3 lb · isinglass,
nearly 1 oz,: 5 minutes.
APRICOT BLANC-MANGE, OR CRÊME PARISIENNE.
Dissolve gently an ounce of fine isinglass in a pint of new milk or
of thin cream, and strain it through a folded muslin ; put it into a
clean saucepan, with three ounces of sugar, broken into small lumps,
and when it boils, stir to it half a pint of rich cream; add it, at first
by spoonsful only, to eight ounces of the finest apricot jam, mix them
very smoothly, and stir the whole until it is nearly cold that the jam
may not sink to the bottom of the mould: a tablespoonful of lemon-
juice will improve the flavour.
When cream is scarce, use milk instead, with an additional quarter
of an ounce of isinglass, and enrich it by pouring it boiling on the
same proportion of almonds as for the second quince blanc-mange (see
page 478). Cream can in all cases be substituted entirely for the
milk, when a very rich preparation is desired. Peach jam will answer
admirably for this receipt; but none of any kind should be used for
it which has not been passed through a sieve when made.
Isinglass, 1 oz.; new milk, 1 pint; cream, ) pint : sugar, 3 oz.;
apricot jam, $ lb ; lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful. Or, peach jam, ,
lb.; cream, 1) pint.
CURRANT BLANC-MANGE.
In three-quarters of a pint of clear currant-juice, drawn from the
fruit as for jelly, and strained, dissolve an ounce and a half of isin-
glass ; add nine ounces of sugar broken small, give the whole a boil,
strain it, and stir it by slow degrees to three-quarters of a pint of
thick cold cream; when it is less than milk-warm pour it into the
moulds. The proportions of juice and cream can be varied to the
taste, and a portion of raspberries or strawberries added to the cur-
rants. Black currants would, we think, make an agreeable variety of
this blanc-mange for persons who like their peculiar flavour, but we
have not tried them.
Clear juice of red currant, & pint; isinglass, l} oz. ; sugar, 9 oz.;
cream, pint.


480
[CHAP. IX...
MODERN COOKERY.
LEMON SPONGE, OR MOULDED LEMON CREAM.
Infuse in half a pint of cream the very thin rind of one large lemon,
or of one and a half of smaller size; or, instead of this, rasp the fruit
with the sugar which is to be used for the preparation. Add three-
quarters of an ounce of fine isinglass, and when this is dissolved
throw in seven ounces of sugar in small lumps. Do not boil the
mixture, to reduce it, but let it be kept near the point of simmering,
until the sugar and isinglass are entirely dissolved, and a full flavour
of the lemon-rind has been obtained ; then stir in another half-pint
of cream, and strain the mixture immediately into a deep bowl or pan.
When it is quite cold, add to it very gradually the strained juice of
one lemon and a half, whisking the preparation well all the time;
and when it begins to set, which may be known by its becoming very
thick, whisk it lightly to a sponge, pour it into an oiled mould, and,
to prevent its breaking when it is díshed, just dip the mould into hot,
but not boiling water; loosen the edges carefully, and turn out the
cream: to save time and trouble the whisking may be omitted, and a
plain lemon-cream take place of the sponge.
Cream, 1 pint; rind of lemons 2 middling-sized, or 1ļ large; isin-
glass, { oz.; sugar, 7 oz. ; juice of 14 lemon.
Obs.-For this, as for all other dishes of the kind, a little more or
less of isinglass may be required according to the state of the weather,
a larger proportion being needed in summer than in winter.
AN APPLE HEDGE-HOG, OR SUÉDOISE.
This dish is formed of apples, pared, cored without being divided,
and stewed tolerably tender in a light syrup. These are placed in a
dish, after being well drained, and filled with apricot, or any other
rich marmalade, and ar-
ranged in two or more
layers, so as to give, when
the whole is complete, the
form shown in the engrava
ing. The number required
must depend on the size of
the dish. From three to
five pounds more must be
stewed down into a smooth and dry marmalade, and with this all the
spaces between them are to be filled up, and the whole are to be
covered with it; an icing of two eggs, beaten to a very solid froth.
and mixed with two heaped teaspoonsful of sugar, must then be spread
everly over the suédoise, fine sugar sifted on this, and spikes of
blanched almonds, cut lengthwise, stuck over the entire surface; the
dish is then to be placed in a moderate oven until the almonds are
broned, but not too deeply, and the apples are hot through It is


CHAP. XXIII.]
481
SWEET DISHES.
not easy to give the required form with less than fifteen apples ; eight
of these may first be simmered in a syrup made with half a pint of
water and six ounces of sugar, and the remainder may be thrown in
after these are liſted out. Care must be taken to keep them firm.
The marmalade should be sweet, and pleasantly flavoured with
lemon.
VERY GOOD OLD-FASHIONED BOILED CUSTARD.
Throw into a pint and a half of new milk, the very thin rind of a
fresh lemon, and let it infuse for half an hour, then simmer them
together for a few minutes, and add four ounces and a half of white
sugar. Beat thoroughly the yolks of fourteen fresh eggs, mix with
then another half-pint of new milk, stii the boiling milk quickly to
them, take out the lemon-peel, and turn the custard into a deep jug;
set this over the fire in a pan of boiling water, and keep the custard
stirred gently, but without ceasing, until it begins to thicken ; then
move the spoon rather more quickly, making it always touch the
bottom of the jug, until the mixture is brought to the point of boil-
ing, when it must be instantly taken from the fire, or it will curdle
in a moment. Pour it into a bowl, and kcep it stirred until nearly
cold, then add to it by degrees a wineglassful of good brandy, and
two ounces of blanched almonds, cut into spikes; or omit these, at
pleasure. A few bitter ones, bruised, can be boiled in the milk in
lieu of lemon-peel, when their flavour is preferred.
New milk, 1 quart; rind of 1 lemon ; sugar, 41 oz.; yolks of eggs,
14; salt, less than 1 saltspoonful.
RICH BOILED CUSTARD.
Take a small cupful from a quart of fresh cream, and simmer the
remainder for a few minutes with four ounces of sugar and the rind
of a lemon, or give it any other flavour that may be preferred. Beat
and strain the yolks of eight eggs, mix them with the cupful of cream,
and stir the rest boiling to them: thicken the custard like the pre-
ceding one.
Cream, 1 quart ; sugar, 4 oz.; yolks of eggs, 8.
THE QUEEN'S CUSTARD.
On the beaten and strained yolks of twelve new-laid eggs pour a
pint and a half of boiling cream which has been sweetened, with three
ounces of sugar; add the smallest pinch of salt, and thickca the
custard as usual. When nearly cold, flavour it with a glass and a
half of noyau, maraschino, or cuirasseau, and add the sliced almonds
or not, at pleasure.
Yolks of eggs, 12 ; cream, 14 pint; sugar, 3 oz.; little salt; noyau,
maraschino, or cuirasseau, 14 wineglassful.
II


482
[CHAT. X111.
MODERN COOKERY.
CURRANT CUSTARD.
Boil in a pint of clear currant-juice ten ounces of sugar for three
minutes, take off the scum, and pour the boiling juice on cight well-
beaten eggs; thicken the custard in a jug set into a pan of water,
pour it out, stir it till nearly cold, then add to it carnfully, and by
degrees, half a pint of rich cream, and last of all two tablespoonsful
of strained lemon-juice. When the currants are very ripe omit one
ounce of the sugar.
White currants and strawberries, cherries, red or white raspberries,
or a mixture of any of these fruits, may be used for these custards
with good effect: they are excellent.
Currant-juice, 1 pint; sugar, 10 oz.: 3 minutes. Eggs, 8; cream,
pint; lemon-juice, 2 tablespoonstul
QUINCE OR APPLE CUSTARDS.
Add to a pint of apple-juice prepared as for jelly, a tablespoonful
of strained lemon-juice, and from four to six ounces of sugar accord-
ing to the acidity of the fruit; stir these boiling, quickly, and in small
portions, to eight well-beaten eggs, and thicken the custard in a jug
placed in a pan of boiling water, in the usual manner. A larger pro-
portion of lemon-juice and a high flavouring of a rind can be given
when approved. For quince custards, which if well made are excel-
lent, observe the same directions as for the apple, but omit the lemon-
juice. As we have before observed, all custards are much finer when
made with the yolks only of the eggs, of which the number must be
increased nearly half, when this is done.
Prepared apple-juice (see page 456), 1 pint; lemon-juice, 1 table-
spoonful; sugar, 4 to 6 oz.; eggs, 8. Quince custards, same propor-
tions, but no lemon-juice.
Obs.—In making lemon-creams the apple-juice may be substi-
tuted very advantageously for water, without varying the receipt in
other respects
THE DUKE'S CUSTARD.
Drain well from their juice, and then roll in dry sifted sugar, as
many fine brandied Morella cherries as will cover thickly the bottom
of the dish in which this is to be sent to table; arrange them in it,
and pour over them from a pint to a pint and a half of rich cold
boiled custard; garnish the edge with macaroons or Naples biscuits,
or pile upon the custard some solid rose-coloured whipped cream,
highly flavoured with brandy.
Brandied Morella cherries, i to whole pint; boiled custard, from
1 + 1 pint; thick cream, pint or more; brandy, 1 to 2 glassesful;


CHAP XXIII.]
483
SWEET DISHES.
sugar, 2 to 3 oz. ; juice of } large lemon ; prepared cochineal, or
carmine, 20 to 40 drops.
CHOCOLATE CUSTARDS.
Dissolve gently by the side of the fire an ounce and a half of the
hest chocolate 'i rather more than a wineglassful of water, and then
boil it until it is perfectly smooth ; mix with it a pint of milk well
flavoured with lemon peel or vanilla, add two ounces of fine sugar,
and when the whole boils, stir it to five well-beaten eggs which have
been strained. Put the custard into a jar or jug, set it into a pan of
boiling water, and stir it without ceasing until it is thick. Do not
put it into glasses or a dish until it is nearly or quite cold. These,
as well as all other custards, are infinitely finer when made with the
yolks only of the eggs, of which the number must then be increased.
Two ounces of chocolate, a pint of milk, half a pint of cream, two
or three ounces of sugar, and eight yolks of eggs, will make very
superior custards of this kind.
Rasped chocolate, lj oz. ; water, 1 large wineglassful : 5 to 8
minutes. New milk, 1 pint; eggs, 5; sugar, 2 oz. Or: chocolate,
2 oz.; water, 1 pint; new milk, 1 pint: sugar, 2) to 3 oz.; cream, }
pint; yolks of eggs, 8.
Obs.-Either of these may be moulded by dissolving from half to
three quarters of an ounce of isinglass in the milk. The proportion
of chocolate can be increased to the taste.
COMMON BAKED CUSTARD.
Mix a quart of new milk with eight well beaten eggs, strain the
mixture through a fine sieve, and sweeten it with from five to eight
ounces of sugar, according to the taste; add a small pinch of salt, and
pour the custard into a deep dish with or without a lining or rim of
paste, grate nutmeg or lemon rind over the top, and bake it in a
very slow oven from twenty to thirty minutes, or longer, should it
not be firm in the centre. A custard, if well made, and properly
baked, will be quite smooth when cut, without the honey-combed
appearance which a hot oven gives; and there will be no whey in the
dish.
New milk, 1 quart; eggs, 8; sugar, 5 to 8 oz.; salt, 1 saltspoon-
ful; nutmeg or lemon-grate : baked, slow oven, 30 to 40 minutes, or
more.
A FINER BAKED CUSTARD.
Boil together gently, for five minutes, a pint and a half of new
milk, a few grains of salt, the very thin rind of a lemon, and six
ounces of loaf sugar; stir these boiling, but very gradually, to the
well-beaten yolks of ten fresh eggs, and the whites of four ; strain the


18+
MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXII.
mixture, and add tv it half a pint of good cream; let it cool, and then
favour it with a few spoonsful of brandy, or a little ratifia; finish
and bake it by the directions given for the common custard above; or
pour it into small well-buttered cups, and bake it very slowly from
ten to twelve minutes.
FRENCH CUSTARDS OR CREAMS.
To a quart of new milk allow the yolks of twelve fresh eggs, but
to equal parts of milk and cream of ten only. From six to cight
ounces of sugar will sweeten the custard sufficiently for general
taste, but more can be added at will ; boil this for a few minutes
gently in the milk with a grain or two of salt, and stir the mixture
briskly to the eggs, as soon as it is taken from the fire. Butter a
round deep dish, pour in the custard, and place it in a pan of water
at the point of boiling, taking care that it shall not reach to within
an inch of the edge; let it just simmer, and no more, from an hour
to an hour and a half: when quite firm in the middle, it will
be done. A very few live embers should be kept on the lid of
the stewpan to prevent the steam falling from it into the custard.
When none is at hand of a form to allow of this, it is better to use a
charcoal fire, and to lay an oven-leaf, or tin, orer the pan, and the
embers in the centre. The small French furnace, shown in Chapter
XXIII., is exceedingly convenient for preparations of this kind ; and
there is always more or less of difficulty in keeping a coal fire entirely
free from smoke for any length of time. Serve the custard cold,
with chopped macaroons, or ratafias, laid thickly round the edge so
as to form a border an inch deep. A few petals of fresh orange-
blossoms infused in the milk will give it a most agreeable flavour,
very superior to that derived from the distilled water. Half a pod of
vanilla, cut in short lengths, and well bruised, may be used instead
of either; but the milk should then stand some time by the fire
before or after it boils, and it must be strained through a muslin
before it is added to the eggs, as the small seed of the vanilla would
probably pass through a sieve.
The French make their custards, which they call crémes, also in
-small china cups, for each of which they allow one egg-yolk, and
then add sufficient milk or cream to nearly fill them ; they sweeten
and give them a delicate flavour; and simmer them in a pan of water
until they are set
New milk, 1 quart; yolks of eggs, 12; sugar, 6 to 8 oz. Or: new
milk, 1 pint; cream, 1 pint; yolks of eggs, 10; flavouring of orange-
flowers or vanilla : simmered in water-bath, 1 to 13 hour.
GERMAN PUFFS.
Pound to a perfectly smooth paste two ounces of Jordan
onds and six bitter ones ; mix with them, by slow degrees, the


486
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP, XXL
early part of their season they will be more acid even than the
rhubarb, and rather more sugar must be allowed for them.
CREAMED SPRING FRUIT, OR RIUBARB TRIFLE.
Boil down the rhubarb with seven ounces of sugar, after having
prepared it as above, and when it is perfectly cold, but not long before
it is sent to table, pour over it about half a pint of rich boiled
custard also quite cold, then heap on this some well drained, but
slightly-sweetened whipped cream, which should be good and very
fresh when it is whisked, but not heavily thick, or it will be less easily
converted into a snow-froth. The rhubarb will be very nice if served
with the whipped cream only on it.
MERINGUE OF PEARS, OR OTHER FRUIT.
Fill a deep tart-dish nearly to the brim with stewed pears, and let
them be something more than half covered with their juice. Whisk
to a solid froth the whites of five eggs; stir to them five tablespoonsful
of dry sifted sugar, and lay them lightly and equally over the fruit;
put the meringue immediately into a moderate oven, and bake it half
an hour. Cherries, bullaces, and damsons, with various other kinds
of plums, first either stewed as for compôtes (see page 457), or baked
with sugar, as for winter use, answer as well as pears for this dish;
which may, likewise, be made of apples, peaches, apricots, or common
plums boiled down quite to a marmalade, with sufficient sugar to
sweeten them moderately: the skins and stones of these last should be
removed, but a few of the blanched kernels may be added to the
fruit.
Dish filled with stewed pears or other fruit; whites of eggs, 5;
pounded sugar, 5 tablespoonstul: baked, hour.
..
AN APPLE CHARLOTTE, OR CHARLOTTE DE POMMES.
Butter a plain mould (a round
or square cake-tin will answer the
purpose quite well), and line it
entirely with thin slices of the
crumb of a stale loaf, cut so as to
fit into it with great exactness, and
dipped into clarified butter. When
this is done, fill the mould to the
brim with apple marmalade; cover
the top with slices of bread dipped in butter, and on these place a
dish, a large plate, or the cover of a French stewpan with a weight
upon it. Send the Charlotte to a brisk oven for three quarters of an
hour should it be small, and for an hour if large. Turn it out with
great care, and serve it hot. If baked in a slack oven it will not take


CHAP. XXII.)
SWEET DISHES.
487
a proper degree of colour, and it will be liable to break in the
dishing. The strips of bread must of course join very perfectly, for
if any spaces were left between them the syrup of the fruit would
escape and destroy the good appearance of the dish : should there not
have been sufficient marmalade prepared to fill the mould entirely, a
jar of quince or apricot jam, or of preserved cherries even, may be
added to it with advantage. The butter should be well drained from
the Charlotte before it is taken from the mould; and sugar may be
sifted thickly over it before it is served, or it may be covered with
any kind of clear red jelly.
A more elegant, and we think an easier mode of forming the crust,
is to line the mould with small rounds of bread stamped out with a
plain cake or paste cutter, then dipped in butter, and placed with the
edges sufficiently one over the other to hold the fruit securely : the
strips of bread are sometimes arranged in the same way.
to 1 hour, quick oven.
MARMALADE FOR THE CIIARLOTTE.
Weigh three pounds of good boiling apples, after they have been
pared, cored, and quartered ; put them into a stewpan with six
ounces of fresh butter, three quarters of a pound of sugar beaten to
powder, three quarters of a teaspoonſul of pounded cinnamon, and
the strained juice of a lemon ; let these stew over a gentle fire, until
they form a perfectly smooth and dry marmalade; keep them often
stirred that they may not burn, and let them cool before they are
put into the crust. This quantity is for a moderate-sized Charlotte.
A CIIARLOTTE A LA PARISIENNE.
This dish is sometimes called in England a Vienna cake; and it
is known here also, we believe, as a Gâteaux de Bordeaux. Cut
horizontally into half-inch slices a Savoy or sponge cake, and cover
each slice with a different kind of preserve; replace them in their
original form, and spread equally over the cake an icing made with
the whites of three eggs, and four ounces of the finest pounded sugar;
sift more sugar over it in every part, and put it into a very gentle
oven to dry. The eggs should be whisked to snow before they are
used. One kind of preserve, instead of several, can be used for this
dish; and a rice or a pound cake may supply the place of the
Savoy or sponge biscuit.
A GERTRUDE A LA CREME.
Slice a plain pound or rice cake as for the Charlotte à la Parisienne,
and take a round out of the centre of each slice with a tin-cutter
before the preserve is laid on; replace the whole in its original form, ice
the outside with a green or rose coloured icing at pleasure, and dry


488
MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. IXU.
it in a gentle oven; or decorate it instead with leaves of almond
paste, fastening them to it with white of egg. Just before it is sent
io table, fill it with well-drained whipped cream, flavoured as for a
trifle or in any other way to the taste
POMMES AU BEURRE
(Buttered apples. Excellent.)
Pare six or eight fine apples of a firm but good boiling kind, are
core without piercing them through, or dividing them ; fill the
cavities with fresh butter, put a quarter of a pound more, cut small,
into a stewpan just large enough to contain the apples in a single
layer, place them closely together on it, and stew them as softly as
possible, turning them occasionally until they are almost sufficiently
tender to serve; then strew upon them as much sifted sugar as will
sweeten the dish highly, and a teaspoonful of pounded cinnamon;
shake these well in and upon the fruit, and stew it for a few minutes
longer. Lift it out, arrange it in a hot dish, put into each apple as
much warm apricot jam as it will contain, and lay a small quantity
on the top; pour the syrup from the pan round, but not on the
fruit, and serve it immediately.
Apples, 6 to 8; fresh butter, 4 oz., just simmered till tender.
Sugar, 6 to 8 oz.; cinnamon, 1 teaspoonful : 5 minutes. Aprico:
jam as needed.
Obs. Particular care must be taken to keep the apples entire:
they should rather steam in a gentle heat than boil. It is impossible
to specify the precise time which will render them sufficiently tender,
as this must depend greatly on the time of year and the sort of fruit.
If the stewpan were placed in a very slow oven, the more regular
heat of it would perhaps be better in its effect than the stewing.
SUÉDOISE OF PEACHES.
Pare and divide four fine, ripe peaches, and let them just simmer
from five to eight minutes in a syrup made with the third of a pint
of water and three ounces
of very white sugar, boiled
together for fifteen minutes;
lift them out carefully into
a deep dish, and pour about
half the syrup over them,
and into the remaining half
throw a couple of pounds
Suédoise of Peaches.
more of quite ripe peaches
and boil them to a perfectly smooth dry pulp or marmalade, with
as much additional sugar in fine powder, as the nature of the fruit
nry require. Lift the other peaches from the syrup, and reduce it


CHAP XXIII.]
SWEET DISHES.
489
by very quick boiling, more than half. Spread a deep layer of the
marmalade in a dish, arrange the peaches symmetrically round it,
and fill all the spaces between them with the marmalade; place the
half of a blanched peach-kernel in each, pour the reduced syrup
equally over the surface, and form a border round the dish with
Italian macaroons, or, in lieu of these, with candied citron, sliced
very thin, and cut into leaves with a small paste-cutter. A little
lennon-juice brings out the flavour of all preparations of peaches,
and may be added with good effect to this. When the fruit is scarce,
the marmalade (which ought to be very white) may be made in
part, or entirely, with nonsuches. The better to preserve their form,
the peaches are sometimes merely wiped, and then boiled tolerably
tender in the syrup before they are pared or split. Half a pint of
water, and from five to six ounces of sugar must then be allowed for
them. If any of those used for the marmalade should not be quite
ripe, it will be better to pass it through a sieve, when partially done,
to prevent its being lumpy.
Large ripe peaches, pared and halved, 4: simmered in
Syrup, , 5 to
8 minutes." Marmalade : peaches (or nonsuches) 2 lbs.; sugar, to
lb.: 8 to 1 hour, or more. Strained lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful.
Citron, or macaroons, as needed.
Peaches, if boiled whole in syrup, 15 to 18 minutes.
Obs.—The number of peaches can, at pleasure, be increased to six,
and three or four of the halves can be piled above the others in the
centre of the dish.
AROCE DOCE (OR SWEET RICE, A LA PORTUGAISE.)
Wash thoroughly, then drain, and wipe dry in a soft cloth, half a
pound of the best Carolina rice. Pour to it three pints of new milk,
and when it has gently stewed for half an hour, add eight ounces of
sugar broken into small lumps, let it boil until it is dry and tender,
and when it is nearly so, stir to it two ounces of blanched almonds,
chopped * or pounded. Turn the rice when done into shallow dishes
or soup plates, and shake it until the surface is smooth; then sift
over it rather thickly through a muslin, some freshly-powdered
cinnamon, which will give it the appearance of a baked pudding.
Serve it cold. It will remain good for several days. This is quite
the best sweet preparation of rice that we have ever eaten, and it is
a very favourite dish in Portugal, whence the receipt was derived.
One or two bitter almonds, pounded with the sweet ones, might a
little improve its flavour, and a few spoonsful of rich cream could
occasionally be substituted for a small portion of the milk, but it
should not be added until the preparation is three parts done.
Rice, 8 oz.; milk, 3 pints: 30 minutes. Sugar, 8 oz. : 1 hour or
more. Pounded almonds, 2 oz, ; cinnamon, 1 teaspoonful.
Obs:—The rice must be frequently stirred while boiling, par.
• The Portiguese use them not very finely chopped.


490
MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXIIL
ticularly after it begins to thieken ; and it will be better Dot to add
the entire quantity of milk at first, as from a quarter to half a pint
les will sometimes prove sufficient. The grain should be thoroughly
icadır, but dry and unbroken.
COCOA-XUT DOCE,
This is merely fine fresh lightly grated cocoa-nut stewed until
tender in syrup, made with one pound of sugar to half a pint of
water (or more to the taste) and flavoured with orange-flower
water.
BITTERED CHERRIES. (CERISES AU BEURRE.)
Cut four ounces of the crumb of a stale loaf into dice, and fry
them a light brown in an ounce and a half of fresh butter; take
them up. pour the butter from the pan, and put in another ounce
and a bail; to this add a pound of Kentish cherries without their
sta!ks, and when they are quite warmed through, strew in amongst
them four ounces of sugar, and keep the whole well turned over s
moderate fire; pour in gradually half a pint of hot water, and in
fiteen minutes the cherries will be terider Lay the fried bread
into a hot dish, pour the cherries on it, and serve them directiy.
Bread, 4 oz. ; butter, 1} oz. Cherries, 1 lb.; butter, 11 oz.: 10
minutes. Sugar, 4 oz.; water, \ pint: 15 minutes.
Oos.-Black-heart cherries may be used for this dish instead of
Kentish ones: it is an improvement to stone the fruit. We think our
Teaders generally would prefer to the above Morella cherries stewed
from fire to seven minutes, in syrup (made by boiling fire ounces of
sugar in half pint of water, for a quarter of an hour), and poured
hot on the fried bread. Two pounds of the fruit, when it is stoned,
will be required for a full-sized dish.
SWEET MACARONI.
Drop gently into a pint and a half of new milk, when it is boiling
fast, four ounces of fine pipe macaroni, add a grain or two of salt, and
some thin strips of lemon or orange rind : cinnamon can be sub-
stituted for these when preferred. Simmer the macaroni by a gentle
fire until it is tolerably tender, then add from two to three ounces
of sugar broken small, and boil it till the pipes are soft, and
swollen to their full size; drain, and arrange it in a hot dish ; stir
the milk quickly to the well-beaten yolks of three larve, or of
four small eggs, shake them round briskly over the fire uutil they
thicken, pour them over the macaroni and serve it immediately; or
in tead of the eggs, heat and sweeten some very rich cream, pour it
:he 'rained macaroni, and dust finely-powdered cinnamon over


CHAP. XXIII.]
491
SWEET DISHES.
through a muslin, or strew it thickly with crushed macaroons. For
variety, cover it with the German sauce of page 403, milled to a
light froth.
New milk, 1} pint; pipe macaroni, 4 oz.; strips of lemon-rind or
cinnamon ; sugar, 2 to 3 oz.: Å to 1 hour, or more.
BERMUDA WITCHES,
Slice equally some rice, pound, or Savoy cake, not more than the
sixth of an inch thick ; take off the brown edges, and spread one half
of it with Guava jelly, or, if more convenient, with fine strawberry,
raspberry, or currant jelly of the best quality (see Norman receipt,
478); on this strew thickly some fresh cocoa-nut grated small and
lightly; press over it the remainder of the cake, and trim the whole
into good form ; divide the slices if large, pile them slopingly in the
centre of a dish upon a very white napkin folded flat, and garnish or
intersperse them with small sprigs of myrtle. For very young
people a Frencu roll or two, and good currant jelly, red or white,
will supply a wholesome and inexpensive dish.
NESSELRODE PUDDING.
We give Monsieur Carème's own receipt for this favourite and
fashionable dish, not having ourselves had a good opportunity of
proving it; but as it originated with him he is the best authority
for it. It may be varied in many ways, which the taste or ingenuity
of the reader will easily suggest. Boil forty fine sound Spanish
chestnuts quite tender in plenty of water, take off the husks, and
pound the chestnuts perfectly with a few spoonsful of syrup; rub
them through a fine sieve, and mix them in a basin with a pint of
syrup made with a pound of sugar clarified, and highly-flavoured
with a pod of vanilla, a pint of rich cream, and the yolks of twelve
eggs; thicken the mixture like a boiled custard; when it is cold put
it into a freezing pot, adding a glass of maraschino, and make it set as
an iced cream ; then add an ounce of preserved citron cut in dice, two
ounces of currants, and as many fine raisins stoned and divided (all
of which should be soaked from the day before in some maraschino
with a little sugar); the whole thus mingled, add a plateful of
whipped cream, and the whites of three eggs prepared as for Italian
meringue. When the pudding is perfectly frozen, mould it in a
pewter mould of the form of a pine-apple, and place it again in the
ice till wanted to serve. Preserved cherries may be substituted for
the raisins and currants.
Chestnuts, 40; syrup, 1 pint some spoonsful; vanilla, 1 pod;
cream, 1 pint; yolk of eggs, 12; maraschino, 1 glassful; citron, 1 oz.;
currants, 2 oz. ; raisins, 2 oz.; whipped cream, 1 plateful; whites of
eggs beaten to snow, 3.
Obs.- As Monsieur Carème directs the eggs for his Italian me-


492
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. III
ringues to be prepared as follows, he probably intends that they
should be mixed with the syrup before they are added to the pudding
Boil together half a pound of the finest sugar, and half a pint of
water, until they begin to be very thick; then, with a wooden spoon,
work the sugar against the side of the pan till it whitens ; leave it to
cool a little, work it again, and then with a whisk mingle with it the
eggs whipped to a very firm froth, which ought to produce a prepa-
ration very white, smooth, and brilliant.
STEWED FIGS. (A VERY NICE COMPOTE.)
Put into an enamelled or a copper stewpan, four ounces of refined
sugar, the very thin rind of a large and fresh lemon, and a pint of
cold water. When the sugar is dissolved, add a pound of fine 'Turkey
figs, and place the stewpan on a trivet above a moderate fire, or upon
a stove, where they can heat and swell slowly, and be very gently
stewed. When they are quite tender, add to them two glassesful of
port wine, and the strained juice of the lemon; arrange them in a
glass dish, and serve them cold. From two hours to two and a half
of the gentlest stewing will generally be sufficient to render the figs
fit for table. Orange-juice and rind can be used for them at pleasure.
instead of the lemon; two or three bitter almonds may be boiled in
the syrup to give it flavour, and any wine can be used for it which
may be preferred, but port is best.
This compóte
. may be served in the second course hot, in a rice-
border; or cold for dessert.


CHAP. XXI.]
493
PRESERVES.
CHAPTER XXIV.
Preserves.

CURAVIMAMA
GENERAL REMARKS ON THE USE AND VALUE OF PRESERVED
FRUIT.
SIMPLE well-made preserves—especially those of our early summer
fruits-are most valuable domestic stores, as they will retain through
the entire year or longer,* their peculiarly grateful and agreeable
flavour, and supply many wholesome and refreshing varieties of diet
through the winter months and spring. They are, indeed, as con-
ducive to health—when not cloyingly sweet or taken in excess—as
good vegetables are; and they are inexpensive luxuries (if as luxuries
they must be regarded), now sugar is so very reasonable in price.
By many families they are considered too much as mere superfluities
of the table, and when served only—as they so often are—combined
with rich pastry-crust or cream, or converted into ices and other
costly preparations, may justly be viewed solely in that light. To
* We have had them excellent at the end of three or four years, but they were
made from the produce of a home garden, as freshly gathered, and carefully
selected as it could be. Some clear apricot-marmalade, some strawberry-jelly,
and some raspberry-jelly, were amongst those which retained their full flavour
and transparency to the last. They were merely covered with two layers of thin
writing paper pressed closely on them, after being saturated with spirits of wine.


494
MODERN COOKERY.
CHAP. XXIV.
be eaten in perfection they should be sufficiently boiled down to
remain free from mould or fermentation, and yet not so much
reduced as to be dry or hard ; they should not afterwards be sub-
jected to the heat of the oven,* but served with some plain pudding,
or light dish of bread, rice, ribbon-macaroni, soujee, semoulina, &c.
When intended for tartlets or creams, or fruit-sauces, for which see
Chapter XX., they should be somewhat less boiled, and be made
with a larger proportion of sugar.
Fruit steamed in bottles is now vended and consumed in very
large quantities in this country, but it is not wholesome, as it pro-
duces often-probably from the amount of fixed air which it contains
-violent derangement of the system. When the bottles are filled
with water it is less apt to disagree with the eaters, but it is never so
really wholesome as preserves which are made with sugar. That
which is baked keeps remarkably well, and appears to be somewhat
less objectionable than that which is steamed.
The rich confectionary preparations called wet preserres (fruits
preserved in syrup), which are principally adapted to formal desserts,
scarcely repay the cost and trouble of making them in private
families, unless they be often required for table. They are in
general lusciously sweet, as they will only remain good with a large
proportion of sugar; and if there be no favourable place of storage
for them they soon spoil. When drained and well dried, they may
much more easily he kept uninjured. The general directions for
them, which we append, and the receipts for dried gooseberries,
cherries, and apricots which we have inserted here will be sufficient
for the guidance of the reader who may wish to attempt them.

Fourneau Economique, or Portable French Furnace, with Stewpan Trvet.
No. 1. Portable French Furnace.—2. Depth at which the grating is placed.-3. Stewpan.-
4. Trivet.
For the manner of serving them in pastry without this, see "small vol-au-
10 tartlets,” Chap. XVIII.


CHAP. XXIV.]
PRESERVES.
495
Closed Furnace and Cover.
The small portable French stove, or furnace, shown in the preceding
page, with the trivet and stewpan adapted to it, is exceedingly con-
venient for all preparations which require either more than usual atten-
tion, or a fire entirely free from smoke; as it can be placed on a table in
a clear light, and the heat can be regulated at pleasure. It has been
used for many of the preserves of which the receipts are given in this
chapter, as well as for various dishes contained in the body of the
work. There should always be a free current of air in the room in
which it stands when lighted, as charcoal or bruise (that is to say, the
live embers of large well-burned wood, drawn from an oven and
shut immediately into a closely-
stopped iron or copper vessel to
extinguish them) is the only fuel
suited to it. To kindle either of
these, two or three bits must be
lighted in a common fire, and laid
on the top of that in the furnace,
which should be evenly placed be-
tween the grating and the brim, and
then blown gently with the bellows
until the whole is alight: the door
of the furnace must in the mean
while be open, and remain so, unless
the heat should at any time be too
fierce for the preserves, when it must
be closed for a few minutes, to
moderate it. To extinguish the fire
altogether, the cover must be pressed
closely on, and the door be quite
shut: the embers which remain will
serve to rekindle it easily, but before
Grating.
it is again lighted the grating must
be lifted out and all the ashes cleared
away. It should be set by in a place
which is not damp. In a common
grate a clear fire for preserving may
be made with coke, which is a degree
Trevet.
less unwholesome than charcoal
The enamelled stewpans which have now come into general use,
are, from the peculiar nicety of the composition with which they are
lined, better adapted than any others to pickling and preserving, as
they may be used without danger for acids; and red fruits when
boiled in them retain the brightness of their colour as well as if
copper or bell-metal were used for them. The form of the old-
fashioned preserving-pan, made usually of one or the other of these,
is shown here; but it has not, we should say, even the advantage
of being of convenient shape; for the handles quickly be-
come heated, and the pan, in consequence, cannot always be


496
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. xxiv.
instantaneously raised from the ore when the contents threaten to
over-boil or to burn.
It is desirable to have threc or four wooden spoons or spatulas,
one fine hair-sieve, at the least, one or two large squares of common
muslin, and one strainer or more of closer
texture, kept exclusively for prepara-
tions of fruit; for if used for other pur-
poses, there is the hazard, without great
care, of their retaining some strong or
coarse flavour, which they would im-
part to the preserves. A sieve, for
example, used habitually for soup or
Copper Preserving Pan. gravy, should never, on any account, be
brought into use for any kind of confectionary, nor in making
sweet dishes, nor for straining eggs or milk for puddings, cakes,
or bread. Damp is the great enemy, not only of preserves and
pickles, but of numberless other household stores; yet, in many
situations, it is extremely difficult to exclude it. To keep them
dry cool place” (words which occur so frequently both in
this book, and in most others on the same subject), is more easily
directed than done. They remain, we find, more entirely free
from any danger of moulding, when covered with a brandied paper
only, and placed on the shelves of a tolerably dry store-room, or in a
chiffoneer (in which we have had them keep unchanged for years).
When the slightest fermentation is perceptible in syrup, it should
immediately be boiled for some minutes, and well skimmed; the fruit
taken from it should then be thrown in, and well scalded also, and
the whole, when done, should be turned into a very clean dry jar:
this kind of preserve should always be covered with one or two skins,
or with parchment and thick paper when it is not secured from the
air with corks.
in a
A FEW GENERAL RULES AND DIRECTIONS FOR PRESERVI NG.
1. Let everything used for the purpose be delicately clean and
dry; bottles especially so.
2. Never place a preserving pan flat upon the fire, as this will
render the preserve liable to burn to, as it is called ; that is to say, to
adhere closely to the metal, and then to burn ; it should rest always
on a trivet (that shown with the French furnace is very convenient
even for a common grate), or on the lowered bar of a kitchen range
when there is no regular preserving stove in a house.
3. After the sugar is added to them, stir the preserves gently at
first, and more quickly towards the end, without quitting them until
they are done: this precaution will always prevent the chance of
their being spoiled.
4. All preserves should be perfectly cleared from the scum as it rises.
5. Fruit wbich is to be preserved in syrup must first be blanched


CHAP. XXIV.]
497
PRESERVES.
or boiled gently, until it is sufficiently softened to absorb the sugar ;
and a thin syrup must be poured on it at first, or it will shrivel
instead of remaining plump, and becoming clear. Thus, if its weight
of sugar is to be allowed, and boiled to a syrup with a pint of water
to the pound, only half the weight must be taken at first, and this
must not be boiled with the water more than fifteen or twenty
minutes at the commencement of the process; a part of the remain-
ing sugar must be added every time the syrup is reboiled, unless it
should be otherwise directed in the receipt.
6. To preserve both the true flavour and the colour of fruit in
jams and jellies, boil them rapidly until they are well reduced, before
the sugar is added, and quickly afterwards, but do not allow them to
become so much thickened that the sugar will not dissolve in them
easily, and throw up its scum. In some seasons, the juice is so much
richer than in others, that this effect takes place almost before one is
aware of it; but the drop which adheres to the skimmer when it is
held up, will show the state it has reached.
7. Never use tin, iron, or pewter spoons, or skimmers, for pre-
serves, as they will convert the .colour of red fruit into a díngy
purple, and impart, besides, a very unpleasant flavour.
8. When cheap jams or jellies are required, make them at once
with Lisbon sugar, but use that which is well refined always, for
preserves in general ; it is a false economy, as we have elsewhere
observed, to purchase an inferior kind, as there is great waste from it
in the quantity of scum which it throws up. The best has been used
for all the receipts given here.
9. Let fruit for preserving be gathered always in perfectly dry
weather, and be free both from the morning and evening dew, and as
much so as possible from dust. When bottled, it must be steamed or
baked during the day on which it is gathered, or there will be a great
loss from the bursting of the bottles; and for jams and jellies it
cannot be too soon boiled down after it is taken from the trees.
TO EXTRACT THE JUICE OF PLUMS FOR JELLY.
Take the stalks from the fruit, and throw aside all that is not
perfectly sound : put it into very clean, large stone jars, and give
part of the harder kinds, such as bullaces and damson, a gash with a
knife as they are thrown in; do this especially in filling the upper
part of the jars. Tie one or two folds of thick paper over them, and
set them for the night into an oven from which the bread has been
drawn four or five hours; or cover them with bladder, instead of
paper, place them in pans, or in a copper* with water which will reach
to quite two-thirds of their height, and boil them gently from two to
three hours, or until the fruit is quite soft, and has yielded all the
juice it will afford: this last is the safer and better mode for jellies of
delicate colour.
* The fruit steams perfectly in this, if the cover be placed over it.
KK


498
[CHAP. XXIV.
MODERN COOKERY.
TO WEIGH THE JUICE OF FRUIT.
Put a basin into one scale, and its weight into the other; add to
this last the weight which is required of the juice, and pour into the
basin as much as will balance the scales. It is always better to weigh
than to measure the juice for preserving, as it can generally be done
with more exactness
RHUBARB JAM.
The stalks of the rhubarb (or spring-fruit, as it is called) should
be taken for this preserve, which is a very good and useful one, while
they are fresh and young. Wipe them very clean, pare them
quickly, weigh, and cut them into half-inch lengths; to every pound
add an equal weight of good sugar in fine powder ; mix them well
together, let them remain for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour to
draw out the juice a little, then turn them into a preserving pan, let
them heat rather slowly, but as soon as the stalks are tender boil the
preserve rapidly, stirring it well for about half an hour. It will be
of excellent flavour, and will serve admirably for tarts.
A somewhat cheaper mode of making the jam is to stew it until
tender in its own juices, and then to boil it rapidly until it is tolerably
dry, to add to it only half its weight of sugar, and to give it from
twenty to thirty minutes boiling.
Spring fruit (rhubarb), 4 lbs.; sugar, 4 lbs.: heated slowly, and
when tender, boiled quickly, 30 minutes.
GREEN GOOSEBERRY JELLY.
Wash some freshly gathered gooseberries very clean; after having
taken off the tops and stalks, then to each pound pour three-quarters
of a pint of spring water, and simmer them until they are well
broken ; turn the whole into a jelly-bag or cloth, and let all the
juice drain through ; weigh and boil it rapidly for fifteen minutes.
Draw it from the fire, and stir in it until entirely dissolved, an equal
weight of good sugar reduced to powder; boil the jelly from fifteen
to twenty minutes longer, or until it jellies strongly on the spoon or
skimmer'; clear it perfectly from scum, and pour it into small jars,
moulds, or glasses. It ought to be very pale and transparent. The
sugar may be added to the juice at first, and the preserve boiled from
twenty-five to thirty-five minutes, but the colour will not then be so
good. When the fruit abounds, the juice may be drawn from it with
very little water, as directed for apples, page 523, when it will
require much less boiling.
Gooseberries, 6 lbs.; water, 4 pints: 20 to 30 minutes.
Juice
boiled quickly, 15 minutes ; to each pound, 1 pound sugar : 15 to
minutes


500
MODERN COOKERY.
(CHAP. XXIV.
until it appears shrunken and perfectly scalded; then take out the
bottles, and with the contents of one or two fill up the remainder, and
use great care not to break the fruit in doing this. When all are
ready pour scalding water into the bottles and cover the gooseberries
entirely with it, or they will become mouldy at the top. Cork the
bottles well immediately, and cover the necks with melted resin;
keep them in a cool place ; and when the gooseberries are used
pour off the greater part of the water, and add sugar as for the fresh
fruit, of which they will have the flavour and appearance; and they
will be found more wholesome prepared in this manner than if
simply baked or steamed in the bottles.
RED GOOSEBERRY JAM.
The small rough red gooseberry, when fully ripe, is the best for
this preserve, which may, however, be made of the larger kinds.
When the tops and stalks have been taken carefully from the fruit,
weigh, and boil it quickly for three-quarters of an hour, keeping it
well stirred; then for six pounds of the gooseberries, add two and a
half of good roughly-powdered sugar; boil these together briskly,
from twenty to twenty-five minutes and stir the jam well from the
bottom of the pan, as it is liable to burn if this be neglected.
Small red gooseberries, 6 lbs.: hour. Pounded sugar, 2} lbs.:
20 to 25 minutes.
VERY FINE GOOSEBERRY JAM.
Seed the fruit, which for this jam may be of the larger kind of
rough red gooseberry: those which are smooth skinned are generally
of far inferior flavour. Add the pulp which has been scooped from
the prepared fruit to some whole gooseberries, and stir them over a
moderate fire for some minutes to extract the juice ; strain and weigh
this ; pour two pounds of it to four of the seeded gooseberries, boil
them rather gently for twenty-five minutes, add fourteen ounces of
good pounded sugar to each pound of fruit and juice, and when it is
lissolved boil the preserve from twelve to fifteen minutes longer, and
skim it well during the time.
Seeded gooseberries, 4 lbs.; juice of gooseberries, 2 lbs. : 25
minutes. Sugar, 5+ lbs. (or 14 oz. to each pound of fruit and juice):
12 to 15 minutes.
JELLY OF RIPE GOOSEBERRIES.
(Ercelient.)
Take the tops and stalks from a gallon or more of any kind of well-
jured ripe red gooseberries, and keep them stirred gently over a


CHAP. xxiv.]
501
PRESERVES.
clear fire until they have yielded all their juice, which should then be
poured off without pressing the fruit, and passed first through a fine
sieve, and afterwards through a double muslin-strainer, or a jelly-
bag. Next weigh it, and to every three pounds add one of white
currant juice, which has previously been prepared in the same way;
boil these quickly for a quarter of an hour, then draw them from the
fire and stir to them half their weight of good sugar; when this is
dissolved, boil the jelly for six minutes longer, skim it thoroughly,
and pour it into jars or moulds. If a very large quantity be made,
a few minutes of additional boiling must be given to it before the
sugar is added.
Juice of red gooseberries, 3 lbs. ; juice of white currants, 1 lb.:
15 minutes. Sugar, 2 lbs. : 6 minutes.
Obs. The same proportion of red currant juice, mixed with that
of the gooseberries, makes an exceedingly nice jelly.
UNMIXED GOOSEBERRY JELLY.
Boil rapidly for ten minutes four pounds of the juice of red
gooseberries, prepared as in the preceding receipt; take it from the
fire, and stir in it until dissolved three pounds of sugar beaten to
powder; boil it again for five minutes, keeping it constantly stirred
and thoroughly skimmed.
Juice of red gooseberries, 4 lbs.: 10 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs. : 5
minutes.
GOOSEBERRY PASTE.
;
Press through a sieve the gooseberries from which the juice has
been taken for jelly, without having been drained very closely from
them ; weigh and then boil the pulp for upwards of an hour and a
quarter, or until it forms a dry paste in the pan ; stir to it, off the
fire, six ounces of good pounded sugar for each pound of the fruit,
and when this is nearly dissolved boil the preserve from twenty to
twenty-five minutes, keeping it stirred without cessation, as it will be
liable to burn should this be neglected. Put it into moulds, or
shallow pans, and turn it it out when wanted for table.
Pulp of gooseberries, 4 lbs.: 17 to 14 hour. Sugar, 11 lb. : 20 to
25 minutes.
TO DRY RIPE GOOSEBERRIES WITII SUGAR.
Cut the tops, but not the stalks, from some ripe gooseberries of
the largest size, either red or green ones, and after having taken out
the seeds as directed for unripe gooseberries, boil the fruit until clear
and tender, in syrup made with a pound of sugar to the pint of
water, boiled until rather thick.


502
[CHAP. XXIV.
MODERN COOKERY.
Seeded gooseberries, 2 lbs.; sugar, 14 lb.; water, 1 pint: boiled to
syrup. Gooseberries, simmered 8 to 12 minutes, or more.
Obs.- Large ripe gooseberries freed from the blossoms, and put
into cold syrup in which cherries or any other fruit has been boiled
1or drying, then heated very gradually, and kept at the point of
boiling for a few minutes before they are set by for a couple of days,
answer extremely well as a dry preserve. On the third day the
syrup should be drained from them, simmered, skimmed, and poured
on them the instant it is taken from the fire; in forty-eight hours
after, they may be drained from it and laid singly upon plates or
dishes, and placed in a gentle stove.
JAM OP KENTISII OR FLEMISH CHERRIES.
This is a very agreeable preserve when it is made as we shall
direct; but if long boiled with a large proportion of sugar, as it
frequently is, both the bright colour and the pleasant flavour of the
cherries will be destroyed.
Stone, and then weigh the fruit; heat it rather slowly that the
juice may be well drawn out before it begins to boil, and stew the
cherries until they are tolerably tender, then boil them quickly,
keeping them well turned and stirred from the bottom of the pan, for
three-quarters of an hour or somewhat longer should there still
remain a large quantity of juice. Draw the pan from the fire, and
stir in gradually half a pound of sugar for each pound of cherries.
An ounce or two more may occasionally be required when the fruit is
more than usually acid, and also when a quite sweet preserve is liked.
When the sugar is dissolved continue the boiling rapidly for about
twenty minutes longer; clear off all the scum as it appears, and keep
the jam stirred well and constantly, but not quickly, to prevent its
adhering to the bottom of the preserving-pan.
Stoned Kentish or Flemish cherries, 6 lbs.: without sugar, 1 hour
or rather more. Sugar roughly powdered, 3 lbs.: (or 3} lbs.)
About 20 minutes quick boiling.
Obs.-Heat the fruit and boil it gently until it is quite tender,
turning it often, and pressing it down into the juice ; then quicken
the boiling to evaporate the juice before the sugar is added. Cherries
which are bruised will not make good preserve: they always remain
tough
TO DRY CHERRIES WITH SUGAR.
(A quick and easy method.)
Stone some fine, sound, (entish or Flemish cherries ; put
them into a preserving pan, with six ounces of sugar reduced to
powder, to each round of the fruit; set them over a moderate fire,
and simmer them gently for nearly or quite twenty minutes ; let


CHAP. XXIV.]
503
PRESERVES.
them remain in the syrup until they are a little cooled, then turn
them into a sieve, and before they are cold lay them singly on dishes,
and dry them very gradually, as directed for other fruits. When
the cherries are quite ripe the stones may generally be drawn out with
the stalks, by pressing the fruit gently at the same time; but when
this method fails, they must be extracted with a new quill, cut round
at the end: those of the very short-stalked, turnip-shaped cherry,
which abounds, and is remarkably fine in many parts of Normandy,
and which we have occasionally met with here, though it is not, we
believe, very abundant in our markets, are easily removed with a
large pin, on the point of which the stone may be caught at the stalk
end, just opposite the seam of the fruit, and drawn out at the top,
leaving the cherry apparently entire.
DRIED CHERRIES.
(Superior Receipt.)
To each pound of cherries weighed after they are stoned, add eight
ounces of good sugar, and boil them very softly for ten minutes:
pour them into a large bowl or pan, and leave them for two days in
the syrup; then simmer them again for ten minutes, and set them
by in it for two or three days; drain them slightly, and dry them
very slowly, as directed in the previous receipts. Keep them in jars
or tin canisters, when done. These cherries are generally preferred
to such as are dried with a larger proportion of sugar; but when the
taste is in favour of the latter, from twelve to sixteen ounces can be
allowed to the pound of fruit, which may then be potted in the
syrup and dried at any time; though we think the flavour of the
cherries is better preserved when this is done within a fortnight of
their being boiled.
Cherries, stoned, 8 lbs.; sugar, 4 lbs.: 10 minutes. Left two or
three days. Boiled again, 10 minutes ; left two days; drained and
dried.
CHERRIES DRIED WITHOUT SUGAR.
These are often more pleasant and refreshing to invalids and tra-
vellers than a sweetened confection of the fruit, their flavour and
agreeable acidity being well preserved when they are simply spread
on dishes or hamper-lids, and slowly dried.* Throw aside the
bruised and decayed fruit, and arrange the remainder singly, and
with the stalks uppermost on the dishes. The Kentish cherries are
best for the purpose, but morellas also answer for it excellently.
The former are sometimes stoned, and simmered until quite tender in
their own juice, before they are dried; but this is scarcely an im-
provement on the more usual method of leaving them entire.
* The dishes on which they are laid should be changed dailv.


504
[CHAP. XXIV.
YODERN COOKERY.
TO DRY MORELLA CHERRIES.
Take off the stalks but do not stone the fruit; weigh and add to
it an equal quantity of the best sugar reduced quite to powder, strew
it over the cherries and let them stand for half an hour; then turn
them gently into a preserving-pan, and simmer them softly from fire
to seven minutes. Drain them from the syrup, and dry them like
the Kentish cherries. They make a very fine confection.
COMMON CHERRY CHEESE.
Stone the fruit, or if this trouble be objected to, bruise and boii
it without, until it is sufficiently tender to press through a sieve,
which it will be in from twenty to thirty minutes. Weigh the pulp
in this case, and boil it quickly to a dry paste, then stir to it six
ounces of sugar for the pound of fruit, and when this is dissolved,
place the pan again over, but not upon, a brisk fire, and stir the
preserve without ceasing, until it is so dry as not to adhere to the
finger when touched; then press it immediately into small moulds or
pans, and turn it from them when wanted for table. When the
cherries have been stoned, a good common preserve may be inade
of them without passing them through a sieve, with the addition of
five ounces of sugar to the pound of fruit, which must be boiled very
dry both before and after it is added.
Kentish or Flemish cherries without stoning: 20 to 30 minutes.
Passed through a sieve. To each pound of pulp (first boiled dry),
6 oz. sugar.
To each pound of cherries stoned and boiled to a dry
paste, 5 oz. sugar.
CHERRY PASTE. (FRENCH.)
Stone the cherries ; boil them gently in their own juice for
thirty minutes; press the whole through a sieve; reduce it to a very
dry paste ; then take it from the fire, and weigh it; boil an equal
proportion of sugar to the candying point; mix the fruit with'it;
and stir the paste, without intermission, over a moderate fire, until
it is again so dry as to form a ball round the spoon, and to quit the
preserving-pan entirely; press it quickly into small moulds, and
when it is cold, paper, and store it like other preserves.
STRAWBERRY JAM.
Strip the stalks from some fine scarlet strawberries, weigh, agu
boil them for thirty-five minutes, keeping them very constantly
stirred; throw in eight ounces of good sugar, beaten small, to the
pound of fruit; mix them well off the fire, then boil the preserve
again quickly for twenty-five minutes.


CHAP. XXIV.]
505
PRESERVES.
Strawberries, 6 lbs. : 35 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs. : 25 minutes
Obs.—We do not think it needful to give directions with each
separate receipt for skimming the preserve with care, and keeping it
constantly stirred, but neither should in any case be neglected.
STRAWBERRY-JELLY.
A very Superior Preserve. (New Receipt.)
The original directions for this delicious jelly, published in the
earlier editions of this work, were the result of perfectly successful
trials made in the summer of their insertion; but, after much
additional experience, we find that the receipt may be better adapted
to our varying seasons, which so much affect the quality of our
fruit, and rendered more certain in its results by some alterations;
we therefore give it anew, recommending it strongly for trial,
especially to such of our readers as can command from their own
gardens ample supplies of strawberries in their best and freshest
state. Like all fruit intended for preserving, they should be gathered
in dry weather, after the morning dew has quite passed off them, and
be used the same day. Strip away the stalks, and put the straw-
berries into an enamelled stewpan if at hand, and place it very high
over a clear fire, that the juice may be drawn from them gently;
turn them over with a silver or wooden spoon from time to time,
and when the juice has flowed from them abundantly, let them
simmer until they shrink, but be sure to take them from the fire
before the juice becomes thick or pulpy from over-boiling. Thirty
minutes, or sometimes even longer, over a very slow fire, will not be
too much to extract it from them. Turn them into a new, well-
scalded, but dry sieve over a clean pan, and let them remain until
the juice ceases to drop from them; strain it then through a muslin
strainer, weigh it in a basin, of which the weight must first be taken,
and boil it quickly in a clean preserving-pan from fifteen to twenty
minutes, and stir it often during the time : then take it from the
fire, and throw in by degrees, for every pound of juice, fourteen
ounces of the best sugar coarsely pounded, stirring each portion until
it is dissolved. Place the pan again over the fire, and boil the jelly
-still quickly-for about a quarter of an hour. Occasionally it
may need a rather longer time than this, and sometimes less: the
exact degree can only be ascertained by a little experience, in con-
sequence of the juice of some varieties of the fruit being so much
thinner than that of others. The preserve should jelly strongly on
the skimmer, and fall in a mass from it before it is poured out; but
if boiled beyond this point it will be spoiled. If made with richly-
flavoured strawberries, aud carefully managed, it will be very
brilliant in colour, and in flavour really equal if not superior to
guava jelly; while it will retain all the delicious odour of the fruit


CHAP. XXIV.]
507
PRESERVES.
the back of a wooden spoon after it is put into the preserving-pan.
Boil it gently, kecping it well turned, for about five minutes, then
stir to it gradually nearly or quite its weight of dry pounded sugar,
and continue the boiling rather rapidly for a quarter of an hour or
twenty minutes, and be careful to remove all the scum as it rises.
The preserve will be clear, smooth, and very thick when it is suf-
ficiently boiled, and should then be taken from the pan without
delay, as it will very quickly set,
No. 2.-Draw gently from the smallest of the raspberries from
half to a whole pound of juice, and boil down in this three pounds
of the fruit, after it has been crushed with a spoon as usual. In ten
minutes, if the fruit be quite ripe, the sugar may be added. Three
pounds to four of the raspberries and their juice, will make a quite
sweet preserve. It should be gradually stirred in until dissolved,
and not be allowed to boil during the time. Ten or fifteen minutes
will then suffice generally to bring it to the proper degree for jellying
firmly.
No. 1.–Fine raspberries: 5 minutes. Sugar, nearly or quite equal
weight: 15 to 20 minutes.
No. 2.-Raspberry-juice, 1 lb.; ripe raspberries, 3 lbs. (or 4):
10 minutes. To each pound of fruit and juice, sugar { lb.: 10 to
15 minutes.
Obs.-All fruit jams are much improved by the addition of a
certain portion of juice to the fruit which is boiled down: they then
partake more of the nature of jelly.
GOOD RED OR WHITE RASPBERRY JAM.
Boil quickly, for twenty minutes, four pounds of either red or
white sound ripe raspberries in a pound and a half of currant-juice
of the same colour; take the pan from the fire, stir in three pounds
of sugar, and when it is dissolved, place the pan again over the fire,
and continue the boiling for ten minutes longer : keep the preserve
well skimmed and stirred from the beginning.
Raspberries, 4 lbs.; currant-juice, 13 lb.: 20 minutes. Sugar,
3 lbs. : 10 minutes.
RASPBERRY JELLY FOR FLAVOURING CREAMS.
Take the stalks from some quite ripe and freshly-gathered rasp-
berries, stir them over the fire until they render their juice freely,
then strain and weigh it; or press it from them through a cloth, and
then strain it clear; in either case boil it for five minutes after it is
weighed, and for each pound stir in a pound and a quarter of good
sugar reduced quite to powder, sifted, and made very hot; boil the


508
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. SXIV.
preserve quickly for five minutes longer, and skim it clean. The
jelly thus made will sufficiently sweeten the creams without any
additional sugar,
Juice of raspberries, 4 lbs. : 5 minutes. Sugar, made hot, 5 lbs
5 minutes.
ANOTHER RASPBERRY JELLY.
(Very Good.)
Bruise the fruit a little, and place it high above a clear fire, that
the juice may be gently drawn from it: it may remain thus for
twenty minutes or longer without boiling, and be simmered for four
or five; strain and weigh it; boil it quickly for twenty minutes,
draw it from the fire, add three-quarters of a pound of good sugar
for each pound of juice, and when this is dissolved place the pan
again on the fire, and boil the preserve fast from twelve to fifteen
minutes longer; skim it thoroughly, and keep it well stirred: the
preserve will then require rather less boiling. When it jellies in
falling from the spoon or skimmer, it is done. Nothing of tin or iron
should be used in making it, as these metals will convert its fine
red colour into a dull purple.
Fruit, simmered 5 to 6 minutes. Juice of raspberries, 4 lbs.: 20
minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs. : 12 to 15 minutes. Or: juice of raspberries,
4 lbs. ; juice of white currants, 2 lbs. : 20 minutes. Sugar, 41 lbs.:
10 minutes, or less.
RED CURRANT JELLY.
With three parts of fine ripe red currants freshly gathered, and
stripped from the stalks, mix one of white currants; put them into a
clean preserving-pan, and stir them gently over a clear fire until the
juice flows from them freely; then turn them into a fine hair-sieve,
and let them drain well, but without pressure. Pass the juice
through a folded muslin or a jelly-bag ; weigh it, and then boil it
fust for a quarter of an hour; add for each pound, eight ounces of
sugar coarsely powdered, stir this to it off the fire until it is dissolved,
give the jelly eight minutes more of quick boiling, and pour it out.
I: w:!! be firm, and of excellent colour and flavour. Be sure to clear
off the scum as it rises, both before and after the sugar is put in, or
the preserve will not be clear.
Juice of red currants, 3 lbs. ; juice of white currants, 1 lb.: 15
minutes. Sugar, 2 lbs.: 8 minutes.
Obs.-An excellen jelly may be made with equal parts of the
juice of red and of white currants, and of raspberries, with the same
proportion of sugar and degree of boiling as in the foregoing re-
ceipt.


CHAP. XXIV.)
509
PRESERVES.
SUPERLATIVE RED CURRANT JELLY.
(Norman Receipt.)
Strip carefully from the stems some quite ripe currants of the
finest quality, and mix with them an equal weight of good sugar re-
duced to powder ; boil these together quickly for exactly eight
minutes, keep them stirred all the time, and clear off the scum—which
will be very abundant, as it rises; then turn the preserve into a very
clcan sieve, and put into small jars the jelly which runs through it,
and which will be delicious in flavour, and of the brightest colour.
It should be carried immediately, when this is practicable, to an ex-
tremely cool but not a damp place, and left there until perfectly cold.
The currants which remain in the sieve make an excellent jam, par-
ticularly if only part of the jelly be taken from them. In Normandy
where the fruit is of richer quality than in England, this preserve
is boiled only two minutes, and is both firm and beautifully trans-
parent.
Currants, 3 lbs.; sugar, 3 lbs.: 8 minutes.
Obs.- This receipt we are told by some of our correspondents is
not generally quite successful in this country, as the jelly, though it
keeps well and is of the finest possible flavour, is scarcely firm enough
for table. We have ourselves found this to be the case in cold damp
seasons; but the preserve even then was valuable for many purposes,
and always agreeable eating.
FRENCH CURRANT JELLY.
Mix one-third of white currants with two of red, and stir them
over a gentle fire until they render their juice freely; pour it from
them, strain and weigh it ; for every four pounds break three of fine
sugar into large lumps, just dip them into cold water, and when they
are nearly dissolved boil them to a thick syrup; stir this without
ceasing until it lälls in large thick white masses from the skimmer;
then pour in the currant juice immediately, and when the sugar is
again dissolved, boil the whole quickly for five minutes, clear off the
scum perfectly, pour the jelly into jars or warm glasses, and set it in
a cool place.
Red currants, two-thirds ; white currants, one-third ; juice, 4 lbs.;
sugar boiled to candy height, 3 lbs.: jelly boiled, 5 minutes.
Obs.-A flavouring of raspberries is usually given to currant jelly
in France, the preserve being there never served with any kind of
joint, as it is with us.
DELICIOUS RED CURRANT JAM.
This, which is but an indifferent preserve when made in the usual
way, will be found a very fine one if the following directions for it be


510
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. XXIV.
observed ; it will be extremely transparent and bright in colour, and
will retain perfectly the flavour of the fruit. Take the currants at
the height of their season, the finest that can be had, free from dust,
but gathered on a dry day; strip them with great care from the
stalks, weigh and put them into a preserving-pan with three pounds
of the best sugar reduced to powder, to four pounds of the fruit : stir
them gently over a brisk clear fire, and boil them quickly for exactly
eight minutes from the first full boil. As the jam is apt to rise over
the top of the pan, it is better not to fill it more than two-thirds, and
if this precaution should not be sufficient to prevent it, it must be
lifted from the fire and held away for an instant. To many tastes, a
still finer jam than this (which we find sufficiently sweet) may be
made with an equal weight of fruit and sugar boiled together for
seven minutes. There should be great exactness with respect to the
time, as both the flavour and the brilliant colour of the preserve will
be injured by longer boiling.
Red currants (without stalks), 4 lbs.; fine sugar, 3 lbs. : boiled
quickly, 8 minutes. Or, equal weight fruit and sugar: 7 minutes.
VERY FINE WHITE CURRANT JELLY.
The fruit for this jelly should be very white, perfectly free from
dust, and picked carefully from the stalks. To every pound add
eighteen ounces of double refined sifted sugar, and boil them together
quickly for eight minutes ; pour it into a delicately clean sieve, and
finish it by the directions given for the Norman red currant jelly
(page 559).
White currants, 6 lbs.; highly refined sugar, 63 lbs. : 6 minutes.
WHITE CURRANT JAM, A BEAUTIFUL PRESERVE.
Boil together quickly for seven minutes an equal weight of fine
white currants, stalked with the greatest nicety, and of the best sugar
pounded and passed through a sieve. Stir the preserve gently the
whole time, and be careful to skim it thoroughly.
White currants, 4 lbs. ; best sugar, 4 lbs.: 7 minutes.
CURRANT PASTE.
Stalk and heat some red currants as for jelly, pour off three parts
of the juice, which can be used for that preserve, and press the re-
mainder, with the pulp of the fruit, closely through a hair sieve
reversed; boil it briskly, keeping it stirred the whole time, until it
forms a dry paste ; then for each pound (when first weighed) add
seven ounces of pounded sugar, and boil the whole from twenty-five
to thirty minutes longer, taking care that it shall not burn. This
paste is remarkably pleasant and refreshing in cases of fever, and ac-
ceptable often for winter-desserts.


CHAP. XXIV.]
511
PRESERVES.
Red currants boiled from 5 to 7 minutes, pressed with one-fourth
of their juice through a sieve, boiled from 1} to 2 hour. To each
pound 7 oz. pounded sugar: 25 to 30 minutes.
Obs.-Confectioners add the pulp, after it is boiled dry, to an equal
weight of sugar at the candy height: by making trial of the two
methods, the reader can decide on the better one.
FINE BLACK CURRANT JELLY.
Stir some black currants over the fire until they have yielded their
juice ; strain, weigh, and boil it for twenty minutes ; add to it three
pounds and a half of sifted sugar of good quality, made quite hot, and
when it is dissolved boil the jelly for five minutes only, clearing off
the scum with care. This, though an excellent preserve, is too sweet
for our own taste, and we think one made with less sugar likely to be
more acceptable in cases of indisposition generally.
Juice of black currants, 4 lbs. : 20 minutes. Sugar, 3} lbs.: 5
minutes.
COMMON BLACK CURRANT JELLY.
Boil from three to six pounds of the juice rapidly for twenty
minutes, stirring it well; then mix with it off the fire, half a pound
of sugar for each pound of juice, and continue the boiling for ten
minutes.
Juice of black currants, 3 to 6 lbs. : 20 minutes. To each pound
juice } lb. good sugar : 10 minutes.
Obs.—This jelly may be made with Lisbon sugar, but will then
require rather more boiling.
BLACK CURRANT JAM AND MARMALADE.
No fruit jellies so easily as black currants when they are ripe; and
their juice is so rich and thick that it will bear the addition of a very
small quantity of water sometimes, without causing the preserve to
mould. When the currants have been very dusty, we have occa-
sionally had them washed and drained before they were used, without
any injurious effects. Jam boiled down in the usual manner with
this fruit is often very dry. It may be greatly improved by taking
out nearly half the currants when it is ready to be potted, pressing
them well against the side of the preserving-pan to extract the juice :
this leaves the remainder far more liquid and refreshing than when
the skins are all retained. Another mode of making fine black cur-
rant jam-as well as that of any other fruit-is to add one pound at
least of juice, extracted as for jelly, to two pounds of the berries, and
to allow sugar for it in the same proportion as directed for each pound
of them.
For marmalade or paste, which is most useful in affections of the


512
LCHAP. XXIV.
MODERN COOKERY.
throat and chest, the currants must be stewed tender in their own
juice, and then rubbed through a sieve. After ten minutes' boiling,
sugar in fine powder must be stirred gradually to the pulp, off the
fire, until it is dissolved : a few minutes more of boiling will then
suffice to render the preserve thick, and it will become quite firm
when cold. More or less sugar can be added to the taste, but it is
not generally liked very sweet.
Best black currant jam.-Currants, 4 lbs.; juice of currants, 2 lbs. •
15 to 20 minutes' gentle boiling. Sugar, 3 to 4 lbs. : 10 minutes.
Marmalade, or paste of black currants.- Fruit, 4 lbs.: stewed in its
own juice 15 minutes, or until quite soft. Pulp boiled 10 minutes.
Sugar, from 7 to 9 oz. to the lb. : 10 to 14 minutes.
Obs.-The following are the receipts originally inserted in this
work, and which we leave unaltered.
To six pounds of the fruit, stripped carefully from the stalks, add
four pounds and a half of sugar. Let them heat gently, but as soon
as the sugar is dissolved boil the preserve rapidly for fifteen minutes.
A more common kind of jam may be made by boiling the fruit by
itself from ten to fifteen minutes, and for ten minutes after half its
weight of sugar has been added to it.
Black currants, 6 lbs ; sugar, 4} lbs. : 15 minutes. Or: fruit, 6
lbs. : 10 to 15 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs. : 10 minutes.
Obs. There are few preparations of fruit so refreshing and so
useful in illness as those of black currants, and it is therefore advis-
able always to have a store of them, and to have them well and care-
fully made
NURSERY PRESERVE.
Take the stones from a couple of pounds of Kentish cherries, and
boil them twenty minutes; then add to them a pound and a half of
raspberries, and an equal quantity of red and of wbite currants, all
weighed after they have been cleared from their stems. Boil these
together quickly for twenty minutes ; mix with them three pounds
and a quarter of common sugar, and give the preserve fifteen minutes
more of quick boiling. A pound and a half of gooseberries may be
substituted for the cherries; but they will not require any stewing
before they are added to the other fruits. The jam must be wel
stirred from the beginning, or it will burn to the pan.
Kentish cherries, 2 lbs.: 20 minutes. Raspberries, red currants,
and white currants, of each 1} lb. : 20 minutes. Sugar, 31 lbs. : 15
minutes.
ANOTHER GOOD COMMON PRESERVE.
Boil together, in equal or unequal portions (for this is immaterial),
ant kinds of early fruit, until they can be pressed through a sieve ;
rol then boil the pulp over a brisk fire for half an hour; add


514
[CHAP. XXIV
MODERN COOKERY.
be very fragrant. After the rinds have been pared off, and every
dark speck taken from the flesh, the pines may be rasped on a fine
and delicately clean grater, or sliced thin, cut up quickly into dice,
and pounded in a stone or marble mortar ; or a portion may be
grated, and the remainder reduced to pulp in the mortar. Weigh,
and then heat and boil it gently for ten minutes; draw it from the
fire, and stir to it by degrees fourteen ounces of sugar to the pound
of fruit; boil it until it thickens and becomes very transparent,
which it will be in about fifteen minutes, should the quantity be
small : it will require a rather longer time if it be large. The sugar
ought to be of the best quality and beaten quite to powder; and for
this, as well as for every other kind of preserve, it should be dry. A
remarkably fine marmalade may be compounded of English pines
only, or even with one English pine of superior growth, and two or
three of the West Indian mixed with it; but all when used should
be fully ripe, without at all verging on decay; for in no other state
will their delicious flavour be in its perfection.
In making the jam always avoid placing the preserving-pan flat
upon the fire, as this of itself will often convert what would otherwise
be excellent preserve, into a strange sort of compound, for which it
is difficult to find a name, and which results from the sugar being
subjected—when in combination with the acid of the fruit—to a
degree of heat which converts it into caramel or highly-boiled
barley-sugar. When there is no regular preserving-stove, a flat
trivet should be securely placed across the fire of the kitchen-range
to raise the pan from immediate contact with the burning coals, o
charcoal. It is better to grate down, than to pound the fruit for
the present receipt should any parts of it be ever so slightly tough;
and it should then be slowly stewed until quite tender before any
sugar is added to it; or with only a very small quantity stirred in
should it become too dry. A superior marmalade even to this, might
probably be made by adding to the rasped pines a little juice drawn
by a gentle heat, or expressed cold, from inferior portions of the
fruit; but this is only supposition.
A FINE PRESERVE OF THE GREEN ORANGE PLUM.
(Sometimes called the Stonewood plum.)
This fruit, which is very insipid when ripe, makes an excellent
preserve if used when at its full growth, but while it is still quite
hard and green. Take off the stalks, weigh the plums, then gash
them well (with a silver knife, if convenient) as they are thrown into
the preserving-pan, and keep them gently stirred without ceasing
over a moderate fire, until they have yielded sufficient juice to pre-
vent their burning; after this, boil them quickly until the stones are
entirely detached from the flesh of the fruit. Take them out as they
appear on the surface, and when the preserve looks quite smooth and


CHAP. XXIV.]
515
PRESERVES.
is well reduced, stir in three-quarters of a pound of sugar beaten to
a powder, for each pound of the plums, and boil the whole very
quickly for half an hour or more. Put it, when done, into small
moulds or pans, and it will be sufficiently firm when cold to turn out
well: it will also be transparent, of a fine green colour, and very
agreeable in flavour.
Orange plums, when green, 6 lbs.: 40 to 60 minutes Sugar,
41 lbs. : 30 to 50 minutes.
Obs.—The blanched kernels of part of the fruit should be added
to this preserve a few minutes before it is poured out: if too long
boiled in it they will become tough. They should always be wiped
very dry after they are blanched.
GREENGAGE JAM, OR MARMALADE.
When the plums are thoroughly ripe, take off the skins, stone,
weigh, and boil them quickly without sugar for fifty minutes, keeping
them well stirred; then to every four pounds add three of good
sugar reduced quite to powder, boil the preserve from five to eight
minutes longer, and clear off the scum perfectly before it is poured
into the jars. When the flesh of the fruit will not separate easily
from the stones, weigh and throw the plums whole into the preserv-
ing-pan, boil them to a pulp, pass them through a sieve, and deduct
the weight of the stones from them when apportioning the sugar to
the jam. The Orleans plum may be substituted for greengages in
this receipt.
Greengages, stoned and skinned, 6 lbs.: 50 minutes. Sugar,
41 lbs. : 5 to 8 minutes.
PRESERVE OF THE MAGNUM BONUM, OR MOGUL PLUM.
Prepare, weigh, and boil the plums for forty minutes ; stir to them
half their weight of good sugar beaten fine, and when it is dissolved
continue the boiling for ten additional minutes, and skim the pre-
serve carefully during the time. This is an excellent marmalade,
but it may be rendered richer by increasing the proportion of sugar
The blanched kernels of a portion of the fruit stones will much
improve its flavour, but they should be mixed with it only two or
three minutes before it is taken from the fire. When the plums are
not entirely ripe, it is difficult to free them from the stones and
skins: they should then be boiled down and pressed through a sieve,
as directed for greengages, in the receipt above.
Mogul plums, skinned and stoned, 6 lbs. : 40 minutes. Sugar,
3 lbs.: 5 to 8 minutes.
TO DRY OR PRESERVE MOGUL PLUMS IN SYRUP.
Pare the plums, but do not remove the stalks or stones ; take their
weight of dry siſted sugar, lay them into a deep dish or bowl, and


CHAP. xxiv.]
517
PRESERVES.
TO DRY APRICOTS.
(A quick and easy method.)
Wipe gently, split, and stone some fine apricots which are not
over-ripe; weigh, and arrange them evenly in a deep dish or bowl,
and strew in fourteen ounces of sugar in fine powder, to each pound
of fruit; on the following day turn the whole carefully into a pre-
serving-pan, let the apricots heat slowly, and simmer them very
softly for six minutes, or for an instant longer, should they not in
that time be quite tender. Let them remain in the syrup for a day
or two, then drain and spread them singly on dishes to dry:
To each pound of apricots, 14 oz. of sugar; to stand 1 night, to be
simmered from 6 to 8 minutes, and left in syrup 2 or 3 days.
DRIED APRICOTS.
(French Receipt.)
Take apricots which have attained their full growth and colour,
but before they begin to soften; weigh, and wipe them lightly; make
a small incision across the top of each plum, pass the point of a knife
through the stalk end, and gently push out the stones without
breaking the fruit; next, put the apricots into a preserving-pan,
with sufficient cold water to float them easily; place it over a
moderate fire, and when it begins to boil, should the apricots be quite
tender, lift them out and throw them into more cold water, but
simmer them, otherwise, until they are so. Take the same weight of
sugar that there was of the fruit before it was stoned, and boil it for
ten minutes with a quart of water to the four pounds; skim the
syrup carefully, throw in the apricots (which should previously be
well drained on a soft cloth, or on a sieve), simmer them for one
minute, and set them by in it until the following day, then drain it
from them, boil it for ten minutes, and pour it on them the instant it
is taken from the fire ; in forty-eight hours repeat the process, and
when the syrup has boiled ten minutes, put in the apricots, and
simmer them from two to four minutes, or until they look quite
clear. They may be stored in the syrup until wanted for drying, or
drained from it, laid separately on slates or dishes, and dried very
gradually: the blanched kernels may be put inside the fruit, or
added to the syrup.
Apricots, 4 lbs., scalded until tender ; sugar 4 lbs., water, 1 quart:
10 minutes. Apricots, in syrup, 1 minute; left 24 hours. Syrup,
boiled again, 10 minutes, and poured on fruit : stand 2 days. Syrup,
boiled again, 10 minutes, and apricots 2 to 4 minutes, or until clear.
Obs.—The syrup should be quite thick when the apricots are put
in for the last time; but both fruit and sugar vary so much in
quality and in the degree of boiling which they require, that no


518
[CHAP. XXIV
MODERN COOKERY.
invariable rule can be given for the latter. The apricot syrup
strained very clear, and mixed with twice its measure of pale French
brandy, makes an agreeable liqueur, which is much improved by
infusing in it for a few days half an ounce of the fruit-kernels,
blanched and bruised, to the quart of liquor.
We have found that cherries prepared by either of the receipts
which we have given for preserving them with sugar, if thrown into
the apricot syrup when partially dried, just scalded in it, and left for
a fortnight, then drained and dried as usual, become a delicious
sweetmeat. Mussel, imperatrice, or any other plums, when quite
ripe, if simmered in it very gently until they are tender, and left for
a few days to imbibe its flavoar, then drained and finished as usual,
are likewise excellent.
PEACII JAM, OR MARMALADE.
The fruit for this preserve, which is a very delicious one, should
be finely flavoured, and quite ripe, though perfectly sound. Pare,
stone, weigh, and boil it quickly for three-quarters of an hour, and
do not fail to stir it often during the time; draw it from the fire, and
mix with it ten ounces of well-refined sugar, rolled or beaten to
powder, for each pound of the peaches ; clear it carefully from scum,
and boil it briskly for five minutes ; throw in the strained juice of
one or two good lemons; continue the boiling for three minutes only,
and pour out the marmalade. Two minutes after the sugar is stirred
to the fruit, add the blanched kernels of part of the peaches.
Peaches, stoned and pared, 4 lbs.; hour. Sugar, 21 lbs. : 2
minutes. Blanched peach-kernels : 3 minutes. Juice of 2 small
lemons : 3 minutes.
Obs.- This jam, like most others, is improved by pressing the
fruit through a sieve after it has been partially boiled. Nothing can
be finer than its flavour, which would be injured by adding the
sugar at first ; and a larger proportion renders it cloyingly sweet.
Nectarines and peaches mixed, make an admirable preserve
TO PRESERVE, OR TO DRY PEACHES OR NECTARINES.
(An easy
and excellent Receipt.)
The fruit should be fine, freshly gathered, and fully ripe, but still
in its perfection. Pare, halve, and weigh it after the stones are
removed ; lay it into a deep dish, and strew over it an equal weight
of highly refined pounded sugar; let it remain until this is nearly
dissolved, then lift the fruit gently into a preserving-pan, pour the
juice and sugar to it, and heat the whole over a very slow fire; let it
just simmer for ten minutes, then turn it softly into a bowl, and let
it remain for two days; repeat the slow heating and simmering at
intervals of two or three days, until the fruit is quite clear, when it


CHAP. XXIV.]
519
PRESERVES.
may be potted in the syrup, or drained from it, and dried upon large
clean slates or dishes, or upon wire-sieves. The flavour will be
excellent. The strained juice of a lemon may be added to the syrup,
with good effect, towards the end of the process, and an additional
ounce or two of sugar allowed for it.
DAMSON JAM.
(VERY GOOD.)
The fruit for this jam should be freshly gathered and quite ripe.
Split, stone, weigh, and boil it quickly for forty minutes; then stir
in half its weight of good sugar roughly powdered, and when it is
dissolved, give the preserve fifteen minutes additional boiling, keeping
it stirred, and thoroughly skimmed.
Damsons, stoned, 6 lbs. : 40 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs. : 15 minutes.
Obs.-A more refined preserve is made by pressing the fruit
through a sieve after it is boiled tender; but the jam is excellent
without.
DAMSON JELLY.
Bake separately in a very slow oven, or boil in a pan or copper
of water as described at page 497, any number of fine ripe dam-
sons, and one-third the quantity of bullaces, or of any other pale
plums, as a portion of their juice will, to most tastes, improve, by
softening the flavour of the preserve, and will render the colour
brighter. Pour off the juice clear from the fruit, strain and weigh
it; boil it quickly without sugar for twenty-five minutes, draw it
from the fire, stir into it ten ounces of good sugar for each pound of
juice, and boil it quickly from six to ten minutes longer, carefully
clearing off all the scum. The jelly must be often stirred before the
sugar is added, and constantly afterwards.
DAMSON, OR RED PLUM SOLID. (Good.)
Pour the juice from some damsons which have stood for a night in
a very cool oven, or been stewed in a jar placed in a pan of water ;
weigh and put it into a preserving pan with a pound and four
ounces of pearmains (or of any other fine boiling apples), pared,
cored, and quartered, to each pound of the juice; boil these together,
keeping them well stirred, from twenty-five to thirty minutes, then
add the sugar, and when it is nearly dissolved, continue the boiling
for ten minutes. This, if done with exactness, will give a perfectly
smooth and firm preserve, which may be moulded in small shapes,
and turned out for table. The juice of any good red plum may be
used for it instead of that of damsons.
To each pound clear damson-juice, 1 lb. pearmains (or other
good apples), pared and cored : 25 to 30 minutes. Sugar, 14 oz: 10
minutes.


CHAP. XXIV.]
521
PRESERVES.
through a thick strainer or jelly-bag, and weigh it; boil it quickly
fom fifteen to twenty minutes ; take it from the fire, and stir in
it till dissolved three-quarters of a pound of sugar to the pound of
juice; remove the scum with care, and boil the preserve again
quickly from eight to twelve minutes, or longer should it not then
jelly firmly on the skimmer. When the fruit is very acid, an equal
weight of juice and sugar may be mixed together in the first instance,
and boiled briskly for about twenty minutes. It is impossible to
indicate the precise time which the jelly will require, so much de-
pends on the quality of the plums, and on the degree of boiling
previously given to them in the water-bath. When properly made
it is remarkably transparent and very firm. It should be poured
into shallow pans or small moulds, and turned from them before it is
served. When the imperatrice plum cannot be procured, any other
that will give a pale red colour to the juice will answer. The
bullaces alone make an admirable preserve; and even the commoner
kinds afford an excellent one.
Juice of the shepherd's bullace and imperatrice, or other red plum,
4 lbs: 15 to 20 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs. 1 8 to 12 minutes. Or juice
of bullaces and sugar, equal weight: 20 minutes.
Obs.- After the juice has been poured from the plums they may
be stoned, pared, weighed, and boiled to a paste; then six ounces
of sugar added to the pound, and the boiling continued until the
preserve is again very dry; a small portion of the juice should be
left with the fruit for this.
VERY FINE IMPERATRICE PLUM MARMALADE.
Weigh six pounds of the fruit when it is quite ripe, but before the
frost has touched it; give each plum a cut as it is thrown into the
preserving-pan, and when all are done boil them from thirty-five
to forty minutes, taking out the stones as they rise to the surface,
when they are quite detached from the flesh of the fruit. Draw
back the pan from the fire, stir in two pounds of good sugar beaten
to powder, and boil the preserve quickly for fifteen minutes. The
imperatrice plum is of itself so sweet that this proportion of sugar
makes with it a very rich preserve.
Imperatrice plums (without the stalks) 6 lbs. : boiled 35 to 40
minutes. Sugar 2 lbs. (added after the stones are out): 15 minutes.
Obs.—Some slight trouble would be avoided by pressing the fruit
through a sieve after the first boiling ; but we do not think the
marmalade would be improved by being freed from the skins of the
plums.
TO DRY IMPERATRICE PLUMS.
(An easy method.)
Put them into jars, or wide-necked bottles, with half a pound of


522
[CHAP. XXIV.
MODERN COOKERY.
good sugar, rolled or pounded, to twice the weight of fruit; set them
into a very cool oven for four or five hours; or, if more convenient,
place them, with a little hay between them, in a pan of cold water
and boil them gently for rather more than three hours. Leave them
in the syrup for a few days, and finish them as directed for the
drying of other fruits. Tie a bladder over the necks of the jars or
bottles before they are placed in the pan of water, and fasten two or
three folds of paper over the former, or cork the bottles when the
fruit is to be baked. The sugar should be put in after the fruit,
without being shaken down; it will then dissolve gradually, and be
absorbed by it equally.
To each pound of plums, 8 ounces pounded sugar: baked in cool
oven 4 or 5 hours, or steamed 3 hours.
TO BOTTLE FRUIT FOR WINTER USE.
..
Gather the fruit in the middle of the day in very dry weather ;
strip off the stalks, and have in readiness some perfectly clean and
dry wide-necked bottles ; turn each of these the instant before it is
filled, with the neck downwards, and hold in it two or three lighted
matches : drop in the fruit before the vapour escapes, shake it gently
down, press in some new corks, dip the necks of the bottles into
melted resin, set them at night into an oven from which the bread
has been drawn six or seven hours at least, and let them remain
until the morning: if the heat be too great the bottles will burst.
Currants, cherries, damsons, greengages, and various other kinds of
plums will remain good for quite twelve months when bottled thus,
if stored in a dry place.
To steam the fruit, put the bottles into a copper or other vessel up
to their necks in cold water, with a little hay between and under
them; light the fire, let the water heat slowly, and keep it at the
point of gentle simmering until the fruit is sufficiently scalded.
Some kinds will of course require a much longer time than others
From half to three quarters of an hour will be sufficient for goose-
berries, currants, and raspberries; but the appearance of all will
best denote their being done. When they have sunk almost half the
depth of the bottles, and the skins are shrivelled, extinguish the fire,
but leave them in the water until it is quite cold; then wipe and
store the bottles in a dry place. A bit of moistened bladder tied over
corks is better than the resin when the fruit is steamed.
APPLE JELLY.
Various kind of apples may be used successfully to make this jelly,
but the nonsuch is by many persons preferred to all others for the
purpose. The Ripstone pippin, however, may be used for it with
very good effect, either solely, or with a mixture of pearmains. It is
necessary only that the fruit should be finely flavoured, and that it


CHAP. xxiv.]
523
PRESERVES.
should boil easily to a marmalade. Pare, core, quarter, and weigh it
quickly that it may not lose its colour, and to each pound pour a pint
of cold water and boil it until it is well broken, without being re-
duced to a quite thick pulp, as it would then be difficult to render
the juice perfectly clear, which it ought to be. Drain this well froin
the apples, either through a fine sieve or a folded muslin strainer,
pass it afterwards through a jelly-bag, or turn the fruit at once into
the last of these, and pour the liquid through a second time if needful
When it appears quite transparent, weigh, and reduce it by quick
boiling for twenty minutes; draw it from the fire, add two pounds of
sugar broken very small, for three of the decoction; stir it till it is
entirely dissolved, then place the preserving-pan again over a clear
fire and boil the preserve quickly for ten minutes, or until it jellies
firmly upon the skimmer when poured from it; throw in the strained
juice of a small lemon for every two pounds of jelly, two minutes
before it is taken from the fire.
Apples, 7 lbs.; water, 7 pints: 1 to full hour. Juice, 6 lbs. : 20
minutes quick boiling. Sugar, 4 lbs.: 10 to 25 minutes. Juice three
lemons.
EXCEEDINGLY FINE APPLE JELLY.
Pare quickly some highly flavoured juicy apples of any kind, or of
various kinds together, for this is immaterial ; slice, without dividing
them; but first free them from the stalks and eyes; shake out some
of the pips, and put the apples evenly into very clean large stone
jars, just dipping an occasional layer into cold water as this is done,
the better to preserve the colour of the whole. Set the jars into pans
of water, and boil the fruit slowly until it is quite soft, then turn it
into a jelly-bag or cloth and let the juice all drop from it. The
quantity which it will have yielded will be small, but it will be clear
and rich. Weigh, and boil it for ten minutes, then draw it from the
fire, and stir into it, until it is entirely dissolved, twelve ounces of
good sugar to the pound and quarter (or pint) of juice. Place the
preserve again over the fire and stir it without intermission, except to
clear off the scum, until it has boiled from eight to ten minutes longer,
for otherwise it will jelly on the surface with the scum upon it, which
it will then be difficult to remove, as when touched it will break and
fall into the preserve. The strained juice of one small fresh lemon
to the pint of jelly should be thrown into it two or three minutes
before it is poured out, and the rind of one or two cut very thin may
be simmered in the juice before the sugar is added ; but the pale,
delicate colour of the jelly will be injured by too much of it, and
many persons would altogether prefer the pure flavour of the
fruit.
Juice of apples, 1 quart, or 24 lbs.: 10 minutes. Sugar, 1} lb. :
8 to 10 minutes. Juice, 2 small lemons; rind of 1 or more at
pleasure.


524
[CHAP XXIV.
MODERN COOKERY.
-
Obs.—The quantity of apples required for it renders this a rather
expensive preserve, where they are not abundant; but it is a remark-
ably fine jelly, and turns out from the moulds in perfect shape and
very firm.* It may be served in the second course, or for dessert
It is sometimes made without paring the apples, or dipping them into
the water, and the colour is then a deep red : we have occasionally
had a pint of water added to about a gallon and a half of apples, but
the jelly was not then quite so fine in flavour. The best time for
making it is from the end of November to Christmas. Quince jelly
would, without doubt, be very fine made by this receipt; but as the
juice of that fruit is richer than that of the apple, a little water
might be added. Alternate layers of apples and quinces would
also answer well, we think.
QUINCE JELLY.
Pare, quarter, core, and weigh some ripe but quite sound quinces,
as quickly as possible, and throw them as they are done into part of
the water in which they are to be boiled, as directed at page 456 ;
allow one pint of this to each pound of the fruit, and simmer it gently
until it is a little broken, but not so long as to redden the juice, which
ought to be very pale. Turn the whole into a jelly-bag, or strain
the liquid through a fine cloth, and let it drain very closely from it
but without the slightest pressure. Weigh the juice, put it into a deli-
cately clean preserving pan, and boil it quickly for twenty minutes;
take it from the fire and stir in it, until it is entirely dissolved, twelve
ounces of sugar for each pound of juice, or fourteen ounces if the
fruit should be very acid, which it will be in the earlier part of the
season; keep it constantly stirred and thoroughly cleared from scum,
from ten to twenty minutes longer, or until it jellies strongly in fall-
ing from the skimmer; then pour it directly into glasses or moulds.
If properly made, it will be sufficiently firm to turn out of the latter.
and it will be beautifully transparent, and rich in tavour. It may
be made with an equal weight of juice and sugar mixed together in
the first instance, and boiled from twenty to thirty minutes. It is
difficult to state the time precisely, because from different causes it
will vary much. It should be reduced rapidly to the proper point,
as long boiling injures the colour: this is always more perfectly pre-
served by boiling the juice without the sugar first.
To each pound pared and cored quinces, 1 pint water: 4 to 1}
hour. Juice, boiled 20 minutes. To each pound, 12 oz. sugar :
10 to 20 minutes. Or, juice and sugar equal weight : 20 to 30
minutes.
QUINCE MARMALADE.
When to economise the fruit is not an object, pare, core, and
It is, we should say, quite equal to gelée de poinmes, for which Rouen is some
what celcbrnted.


CHAP. xxiv.]
525
PRESERVES.
quarter some of the inferior quinces, and boil them in as much water
as will nearly cover them, until they begin to break; strain the juice
from them, and for the marmalade put half a pint of it to each pound
of fresh quinces : in preparing these, be careful to cut out the hard
stony parts round the cores. Simmer them gently until they are
perfectly tender, then press them, with the juice, through a coarse
sieve ; put them into a perfectly clean pan, and boil them until they
form almost a dry paste ; add for each pound of quinces and the half
pint of juice, three-quarters of a pound of sugar in fine powder, and
boil the marmalade for half an hour, stirring it gently without ceas-
ing: it will be very firm and bright in colour. If made shortly
after the fruit is gathered, a little additional sugar will be required";
and when a richer and less dry marmalade is better liked, it must be
boiled for a shorter time, and an equal weight of fruit and sugar may
be used.
Quinces, pared and cored, 4 lbs.; prepared juice, 1 quart: 2 to 3
hours. Boiled fast to dry, 20 to 40 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs.; 30
minutes.
Richer marmalade : quinces, 4 lbs.; juice, 1 quart; sugar, 4 lbs.
QUINCE AND APPLE MARMALADE.
Boil together, from three-quarters of an hour to an hour, two
pounds of pearmains, or of any other well-flavoured apples, in an
equal weight of prepared quince-juice (see page 456), then take them
from the fire, and mix with them a pound and a half of sugar, in fine
powder ; when this is a little dissolved, set the pan again over a
brisk fire, and boil the preserve for twenty minutes longer, keeping
it stirred all the time.
Prepared quince-juice, 2 lbs.; apples, 2 lbs.: {to 1 hour. Sugar,
1} lb. : 20 minutes.
QUINCE PASTE,
If the full flavour of the quinces be desired, stew them sufficiently
tender to press through a sieve, in the prepared juice of page 456,
otherwise, in just water enough to about three parts cover them ;
when they are soft quite through lift them out, let them cool, and
then pass them through a sieve; reduce them to a dry paste over a
very clear fire, and stir them constantly, then weigh the fruit, and
mix it with an equal proportio~ of pounded sugar, or sugar boiled to
candy height (we find the effect nearly the same, whichever method
be pursued), and stir the paste without intermission until it is again
so dry as to quit the pan and a there to the spoon in one large ball;
press it into shallow pans or dishes; cut it, as soon as cold, into small
squares, and should they seem to require it, dry them with a very
gentle degree of heat, and when they are again cold store them in tin
cases with well-dried foolscap paper between them: the paste may be


526
[CHAP. XXIV
MODERN COOKERY.
moulded, when more convenient, and kept until it is wanted for table,
in a very dry place. In France, where the fruit is admirably con-
fected, the páte de coigns, or quince paste, is somewhat less boiled
than we have directed, and dried afterwards in the sun, or in an ex-
tremely gentle oven, in square tin frames, about an inch and a half
deep, placed upon clean slates,
JELLY OF SIBERIAN CRABS.
This fruit makes a jelly of beautiful colour, and of pleasant flavour
also : it may be stored in small moulds of ornamental shape, and
turned out for dessert. Take off the stalks, weigh, and wash the
crabs; then, to each pound and a half, add a pint of water and boil
them gently until they are broken, but do not allow them to fall to
a pulp. Pour the whole into a jelly-bag, and when the juice is quite
transparent, weigh it, put it into a clean preserving-pan, boil it
quickly for fifteen minutes, take it from the fire, and stir in it until
dissolved three-quarters of a pound of fine sugar roughly powdered
to each pound of the juice; boil the jelly from fifteen to twenty
minutes, skim it very clean, and pour it into the moulds. Should the
quantity be large, a few additional minutes' boiling must be given to
the juice before the sugar is added.
To each 14 lb. of crabs; water, 1 pint: 12 to 18 minutes. Juice
to be fast boiled, 15 minutes ; sugar, to each pound, i lb.; 15 to 20
minutes.
TO PRESERVE BARBERRIES IN BUNCHES.
Take the finest barberries without stonos that can be procured , tie
them together in bunches of four or five sprigs, and for each half
pound of the fruit (which is extremely light), boil one pound of very
good sugar in a pint of water for twenty minutes, and clear it weil
from scum ; throw in the fruit, let it heat gently, and then boil from
five to seven minutes, when it will be perfectly transparent. So long
as any snapping noise is heard the fruit is not all done; it should be
pressed equally down into the syrup until the whole of the berries
have burst; and should then be turned into jars, which must be
covered with skin or two or three folds of thick paper, as soon as the
preserve is perfectly cold. The barberries thus prepared make a
beautiful garnish for sweet dishes, or for puddings.
Barberries, tied in bunches, 13 lb.; sugar 3 lbs.; water 1} pint: 20
minutes. Barberries boiled in syrup: 5 to 7 minutes.
BARBERRY JAM.
(First and best Receipt.)
The barberries for this preserve should be quite ripe, though they
should not be allowed to hang until they begin to decay. Strip them
from the stalks, throw aside such as are spotted, and for each pound


CHAP. XXIV.]
527
PRESERVES.
of the fruit allow eighteen ounces of well-refined sugar; boil this,
with one pint of water to every four pounds, until it becomes white,
and falls in thick masses from the spoon; then throw in the fruit,
and keep it stirred over a brisk fire for six minutes only ; take off the
scum, and pour it into jars or glasses.
Sugar, 41 lbs. ; water, 1} pint: boiled to candy height. Barberries,
4 lbs. : 6 minutes.
Barberry Jam. Second Receipt.—The preceding is an excellent
receipt, but the preserve will be very good if eighteen ounces of
pounded sugar be mixed and boiled with the fruit for ten minutes
and this is done at a small expense of time and trouble.
Sugar pounded, 2 lbs.; fruit, 2 lbs.: boiled 10 minutes.
SUPERIOR BARBERRY JELLY, AND MARMALADE.
Strip the fruit from the stems, wash it in spring-water, drain,
bruise it slightly, and put it into a clean stone jar, with no more
liquid than the drops which hang about it. Place the jar in a pan of
water, and steam the fruit until it is quite tender: this will be in
from thirty minutes to an hour. Pour off the clear juice, strain,
weigh, and boil it quickly from five to seven minutes, with eighteen
ounces of sugar to every pound. For the marmalade, rub the bar-
berries through a sieve with a wooden spoon, and boil them quickly
for the same time, and with the same proportion of sugar as the
jelly.
Barberries boiled in water-bath until tender; to each pound of
juice, 1 lb. 2 oz. sugar: 5 minutes. Pulp of fruit to each pound, 18
oz. sugar: 5 minutes.
Obs.—We have always had these preserves made with very ripe
fruit, and have found them extremely good ; but more sugаr may be
needed to sweeten them sufficiently when the barberries have hung
less time upon the trees.
ORANGE MARMALADE.
(A Portuguese Receipt.)
Rasp very slightly on a fine and delicately clean grater the rinds of
some sound Seville oranges; cut them into quarters, and separate the
flesh from the rinds; then with the small end of a tea, or eggspoon,
clear it entirely from the pips, and from the loose inner skin and film.
Put the rinds into a large quantity of cold water, and change it when
they have boiled about twenty minutes. As soon as they are per-
fectly tender lift them out, and drain them on a sieve; slice them
thin, and add eight ounces of them to each pound of the pulp and
juice, with a pound and a half of highly-refined sugar in fine powder;
boil the marmalade quickly for half an hour, skim it well, and turn it
into the jars. The preserve thus made will not have a very pow-
erful flavour of the orange rind. When more of this is liked, either


CHAP. XXIV.]
529
PRESERVES.
worked in it with the back of a spoon ; a strong clear jelly will be
obtained by this means, which must be washed off them by pouring
their own liquor through the sieve in small portions over them.
This must be added to the fruit when it is first set on the fire."
Oranges, 3 lbs. ; water, 3 quarts; sugar, 6 lbs.
Obs.—This receipt, which we have not tried ourselves, is gua-
ranteed as an excellent one by the Scottish lady from whom it was
procured.
CLEAR ORANGE MARMALADE.
(Author's Receipt.)
This, especially for persons in delicate health, is far more whole-
some than the marmalade which contains chips of the orange-rinds.
The fruit must be prepared in the same manner, and the pulp very
carefully cleared from the pips and skin. The rinds taken off in
quarters (after having been washed and wiped quite clean from the
black soil which is sometimes found on them), must be boiled
extremely tender in a large quantity of water, into which they may
be thrown when it boils. They should be well drained upon a large
hair sieve reversed, so soon as the head of a pin will pierce them
easily; and the white skin and fibres should be scraped entirely
from them while they are still warm. They should then be pounded
to a paste, and well blended with the pulp and juice, these being added
to them by degrees, that they may not remain in lumps. A quarter of
a pint of water, in which the seeds have been immersed for an hour
or two, well worked up with them, and then passed through a net
strainer* or coarse sieve, will soften the flavour of the marmalade, and
assist its jellying at the same time. Boil it rather quickly without
sugar for a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes, then finish it by
the directions for “ Orange Marmalade, Portuguese Receipt,” of the
preceding page, but regulate the proportion of sugar and the time
of boiling as follows :-
Pulp and juice of Seville oranges, 1} lb.; water strained from
pips, 5 pint; pounded orange-rinds lb. : 15 to 20 minutes. Sugar,
20 lb. (3 lb. if the fruit should be very acid), half added first, 10 to
15 minutes; with remaining half, 15 to 20 minutes, or until the
marmalade becomes quite thick and clear.
Obs -We have occasionally had more water than the proportion
given above used in making this preserve, which is very nice
in flavour, but which may be made to suit various tastes by adding a
larger or smaller quantity of the rinds; and a larger weight of sugar
when it is liked very sweet. When the bitterness of the fruit is
objected to, the rinds may be steeped for a night in a plentiful
quantity of spring water.
• Strainers of coarse bobbin.net, which is very cheap, are preferable to muslin
for preparations which are jellied, as the water becomes thick when the orange
seeds are steeped in it.
M M


530
CHAP. XXIV.
MODERN COOKERY.
FINE JELLY OF SEVILLE ORANGES.
(Author's Original Receipt.)
Although we have appropriated this receipt to another work, we
cannot refrain from inserting it here as well, so delicious to our
taste is the jelly which we have had made by it. For eighteen full-
sized oranges allow a pint and a half of wate. Take off the rinds in
quarters from ten of them, and then free them entirely from their
tough white skin, and with a sharp knife cut them into rather thick
slices, and put them with all the pips into the water. Halve the
remainder of the fruit without paring it, and squeeze the juice and
pips, but not the pulp, to the sliced oranges; and place them by
the fire in an enamelled stewpan which they will not more than two-
thirds fill. Heat and boil them gently between twenty and thirty
minutes, then strain the juice closely from them without pressure,
through a large square of muslin folded in four, or, if more con-
venient, pass it first through a very thin and delicately clean cloth,
and afterwards through the folded muslin. Weigh and boil it
quickly for five minutes ; then for each pound stir gradually to it
fourteen ounces of highly refined sugar, broken small or roughly
powdered; and when it is quite dissolved, continue the boiling for a
few minutes longer, when the preserve will jelly easily and firmly,
and be pale and beautifully transparent, and most agreeable in flavour.
Seville oranges, 18; of which 10 pared and sliced. Water, 14 pint,
and juice of 8 oranges : gently heated and boiled 20 to 30 minutes.
Juice boiled quickly 5 minutes. To each lb. 14 oz sugar: 5 to 8
minutes.
Obs.-On our second trial we had the very thin rind of three of
the oranges stewed with the fruit, which we thought an improves
ment. The jelly in both instances was made, we believe, in April,
when the fruit was fully ripe : earlier in the season it would pro-
bably require longer boiling. On one occasion it became quite firm
very quickly after the sugar was added to the juice; that is to say, in
three or four minutes.


532
[CHAP. XXV.
MODERN COOKERY.
the importers, from whom, or whose agents, we have for several
years been supplied with it.
Pickles should always be kept quite covered with their liquor, and
well secured from the air and from the influence of damp; the last of
which is especially detrimental to them We can quite recommend to
the reader the rather limited number of receipts which follow, and
which might easily be multiplied did the size of our volume permit.
Pickling is so easy a process, however, that when in any degree pro-
perly acquired, it may be extended to almost every kind of fruit and
vegetable successfully. A few of the choicer kinds will nevertheless
be found generally more acceptable than a greater variety of in-
ferior preparations. Mushrooms, gherkins, walnuts, lemons, escha-
lots, and peaches, for all of which we have given minute directions,
will furnish as much choice as is commonly required. Very ex-
cellent Indian mangoes too may be purchased at the Italian ware-
houses, and to many tastes will be more acceptable than any English
pickle. We have had them very good from Mr. Cobbett, 18, Pall
Mall, whose house we have already had occasion to name more than
once.
TO PICKLE CHERRIES.
Leave about an inch of their stalks on some fine, sound Kentish or
Flemish cherries, which are not over ripe ; put them into a jar, cover
them with cold vinegar, and let them stand for three weeks; pour off
two-thirds of the liquor and replace it with fresh vinegar; then, after
having drained it from the fruit, boil the whole with an ounce of
coriander seed, a small blade of mace, a few grains of cayenne, or a
teaspoonful of white peppercorns, and four bruised cochineals to
every quart, all tied loosely in a fold of muslin. Let the pickle
become quite cold before it is added to the cherries: in a month they
will be fit for use. The vinegar which is poured from the fruit
makes a good syrup of itself, when boiled with a pound of sugar to
the pint, but it is improved by having some fresh raspberries,
cherries, or currants previously infused in it for three or four
days.
TO PICKLE GHERKINS.
Let the gherkins be gathered on a dry day, before the frost has
touched them; take off the blossoms, put them into a stone jar, and
pour over them sufficient boiling brine to cover them well. The
following day take them out, wipe them singly, lay them into a clean
stone jar, with a dozen bay leaves over them, and pour upon them
the following pickle, when it is boiling fast: as much vinegar as will
more than cover the gherkins by an inch or two, with an ounce and
& quarter of salt, a quarter-ounce of black peppercorns, an ounce


CHAP xxv.]
533
PICKLES.
and a half of ginger sliced, or slightly bruised, and two small blades
of mace to every quart; put a plate over the jar, and leave it for
two days, then drain off the vinegar, and heat it afresh ; when it
boils, throw in the gherkins, and keep them just on the point of
simmering for two or three minutes; pour the whole back into the
jar, put the plate again upon it, and let it remain until the pickle is
quite cold, when a skin, or two separate folds of thick brown paper,
must be tied closely over it. The gherkins thus pickled are very
crisp, and excellent in flavour, and the colour is sufficiently good to
satisfy the prudent housekeeper, to whom the brilliant and poisonous
green produced by boiling the vinegar in a brass skillet (a process
constantly recommended in books of cookery) is anything but attrac-
tive. To satisfy ourselves of the effect produced by the action of the
acid on the metal, we had a few gherkins thrown into some vinegar
which was boiling in a brass pan, and nothing could be more beauti-
ful than the colour which they almost immediately exhibited. We
fear this dangerous method is too often resorted to in preparing
pickles for sale.
Brine to pour on gherkins :—6 oz. salt to each quart water : 24
hours. Pickle :-to each quart vinegar, salt, 1} oz.; black pepper-
corns, 1 oz.; ginger, sliced or bruised, 1} oz.; mace, 2 small blades ;
bay leaves ; 24 to 100 gherkins, more when the flavour is liked : 2
days. Gherkins simmered in vinegar, 2 to 3 minutes.
Obs.- The quantity of vinegar required to cover the gherkins will
be shown by that of the brine : so much depends upon their size,
that it is impossible to direct the measure exactly. A larger pro-
portion of spice can be added at pleasure.
TO PICKLE GHERKINS.
(A French Receipt.)
Brush or wipe the gherkins very clean, throw them into plenty of
fast-boiling water, and give them a single boil, take them out
quickly, and throw them immediately into a large quantity of very
cold water ; change it once, and when the gherkins themselves are
quite cold, drain them well, spread them on sieves or dishes, and dry
them in the air. When this is done, put them into stone jars, and
pour on them as much boiling vinegar as will cover them well ; heat
it anew, and pour it on them again the following day; and on the
next throw them into it for a minute so soon as it boils, with plenty
of tarragon in branches, a few very small silver onions, and salt and
whole pepper in the same proportions as in the receipt above. It
should be observed that the French vinegar, from its superior excel-
lence, will have a very different effect, in many preparations, to that
which is made up for sale generally in England
• We have already spoken in Chapter VI. of the very superior Vinaigre do
Bordeaux so largely imported by the Messrs. Kent and Sons, of Upton-on-Severne


634
(CHAP. XXV.
MODERN COOKERY.
TO PICKLE PEACHES, AND PEACHI MANGOES.
Take, at their full growth, just before they begin to ripen, six
large or eight moderate-sized peaches; wipe the down from them,
and put them into brine that will float an egg. In three days let
them be taken out, and drained on a sieve reversed for several hours.
Boil in a quart of vinegar for ten minutes two ounces of whole white
pepper, two of ginger slightly bruised, a teaspoonful of salt, two
blades of mace, half a pound of mustard-seed, and a half-teaspoonful
of cayenne tied in a bit of muslin. Lay the peaches into a jar, and
pour the boiling pickle on them: in two months they will be fit for
use.
Peaches, 6 or 8: in brine three days. Vinegar, 1 quart; whole
white pepper, 2 oz.; bruised ginger, 2 oz.; salt, 1 teaspoonful; mace,
2 blades; mustard-seed, 1 lb : 10 minutes.
Obs.-The peaches may be converted into excellent mangoes by
cutting out from the stalk-end of each, a round of sufficient size to
allow the stone to be extracted: this should be done after they are
taken from the brine. They may be filled with very fresh mustard-
seed, previously washed in a little vinegar; to this a small portion of
garlic, or bruised eschalots, cayenne, horse-radish, chilies (the most
appropriate of any), or spice of any kind may be added, to the taste.
The part cut out must be replaced, and secured with a packthread
crossed over the fruit.
SWEET PICKLE OF MELON. (FOREIGN RECEIPT.)
(To serve with Roast Meat.)
Take, within three or four days of their being fully ripe, one or
two well-flavoured melons; just pare off the outer rind, clear them
from the seeds, and cut them into slices of about half an inch thick;
lay them into good vinegar, and let them remain in it for ten days;
then cover them with cold fresh vinegar, and simmer them very
gently until they are tender. Lift them on to a sieve reversed, to
drain, and when they are quite cold stick a couple of cloves into each
slice, lay them into jar (a glass one, if at hand) and cover them
well with cold syrup, made with ten ounces of sugar to the pint of
water, boiled quickly together for twenty minutes. In about a week
take them from the syrup, let it drain from them a little, then put
them into jars in which they are to be stored, and cover them again
thoroughly with good vinegar, which has been boiled for an instant,
and left to become quite cold before it is added to them.
and sold by their agents in almost every town in England. It may be procured
in small quantities (bottled) of Mr. Metcalfe, Foreign Warehouse, Southampton
Row, London, and of other agents, whose names may easily be known by apply.
ing to the Messrs. Kent themselves.


538
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. XXV.
vinegar should be very pale, and their colour will then be exceed-
ingly well preserved. Any favourite spices can be added to it.
TO PICKLE LEMONS, AND LIMES.
(Excellent.)
Wipe eight fine sound lemons very clean, and make, at equal dis-
tances, four deep incisions in each, from the stalk to the blossom end,
but without dividing the fruit; stuff them with as much salt as they
will contain, lay them into a deep dish, and place them in a sunny
window, or in some warm place for a week or ten days, keeping them
often turned and basted with their own liquor ; then rub them with
some good pale turmeric, and put them with their juice, into a stone
jar with a small head of garlic, divided into cloves and peeled, and a
dozen small onions stuck with twice as many cloves. Boil in two
quarts of white wine vinegar, half a pound of ginger slightly bruised,
two ounces of whole black pepper, and half a pound of mustard-
seed ; take them from the fire and pour them directly on the lemons;
cover the jar with a plate, and let them remain until the following
day, then add to the pickle half a dozen capsicums (or a few chilies,
if more convenient), and tie a skin and a fold of thick paper over the
jar.
Large lemons stuffed with salt, 8: 8 to 10 days. Turmeric, 1 to 2
oz.; ginger, 1 lb.; mustard-seed, 1 lb.; capsicums, 6 oz.
Obs.- The turmeric and garlic may, we think, be omitted from
this pickle with advantage. It will remain good for seven years if
the lemons be kept well covered with vinegar : that which is added
to them should be boiled and then left till cold before it is poured into
the jar.
They will not be fit for table in less than twelve months ;
but if wanted for more immediate use, set them for one night into a
very cool oven : they may then be eaten almost directly.
Limes must have but slight incisions made in the rinds; and they
will be sufficiently softened in four or five days. Two ounces of salt
only will be required for half a dozen; and all which remains un-
melted must, with their juice, be put into the jar with them before
the vinegar is poured on: this should be mixed with spice and mus-
tard-seed, and be boiling when it is added to the limes.
LEMON MANGOES.
(Author's Original Receipt.)
All pickles of vegetables or fruit which have been emptied and
filled with various ingredients, are called in England mangoes, having
probably first been prepared in imitation of that fruit, but none that
we have ever tasted, bearing the slightest resemblance to it. Young
melons, large cucumbers, vegetable-marrow, and peaches are all


CLAP. xxv.]
539
PICKLES.
thus designated when prepared as we have described. Lemons may
be converted into an excellent pickle of the same description in the
following manner.
After having removed from the blossom end of each a circular bit
of the rind about the size of a shilling, proceed to scoop out all the
pulp and skin with the handle of a teaspoon; rinse the insides of the
rinds until the water from them is clear; throw them into plenty of
brine made with half a pound of salt to two quarts of water, and stir
them down in it often during the time. In three days change the
brine, and leave them for three days longer; then drain them from
it on a sieve, fill them with bruised or whole mustard-seed, very
small chilies, young scraped horse-radish, very small eschalots, a
little ginger sliced thin, or aught else that may be liked. Sew in the
parts that have been cut out, lay the lemons into a stone jar, and
pour boiling on them a pickle made of their own juice, which when
they are first emptied should be squeezed from the pulp through a
cloth, and boiled with sufficient vinegar to keep it,-a large salt-
spoonful of salt, half an ounce each of ginger and of white pepper-
corns, and a blade or two of mace to every quart; or prepare them
like the whole lemons, omitting the turmeric; and soften them if
wanted for immediate eating as directed for them. They may be
filled simply with mustard-seed, horse-radish, and spice, if pre-
ferred so.
This receipt has been in print before, but without the author's
name.
TO PICKLE NASTURTIUMS.
These should be gathered quite young, and a portion of the buds,
when very small, should be mixed with them. Prepare a pickle by
dissolving an ounce and a half of salt in a quart of pale vinegar, and
throw in the berries as they become fit, from day to day. They are
used instead of capers for sauce, and by some persons are preferred
to them. When purchased for pickling, put them at once into a jar,
and cover them well with the vinegar.
TO PICKLE RED CABBAGE.
Strip off the outer leaves, wipe, and slice a fine sound cabbage or
two extremely thin, sprinkle plenty of salt over them, and let them
drain in a sieve, or on a strainer for twelve hours or more; shake or
press the moisture from them; put them into clean stone jars, and
cover them well with cold vinegar, in which an ounce of black pepper
to the quart has been boiled. Some persons merely cover the
vegetable with strong, unboiled vinegar, but this is not so well.


540
[CHAP. XXVL
MODERN COOKERY.
1
CHAPTER XXVI.
Takes.

Modern Cake Mould.
GENERAL REMARKS ON CAKES.
We have inserted here but a comparatively
limited number of receipts for these sweet
poisons," as they have been emphatically called,
and we would willingly have diminished still
further even the space which has been allotted
to them, that we might have had room in their
stead for others of a more really useful cha-
racter; but we have felt reluctant to withdraw
such a portion of any of the chapters as might
materially alter the original character of the work, or cause dis-
satisfaction to any of our kind readers; we will therefore content
ourselves with remarking, that more illness is caused by habitual
indulgence in the richer and heavier kinds of cakes than would
casily be credited by persons who have given no attention to the
subject.
Mould for Buns.


CHAP. xxyi.)
541
CAKES.
Amongst those which have the worst effects are almond, and
plum pound cakes, as they are called; all varieties of the brioche -
and such others as contain a large quantity of butter and eggs.
The least objectionable are simple buns, biscuits, yeast and sponge
cakes, and meringues ; these last being extremely light and delicate,
and made of white of egg and sugar only, are really not un-
wholesome.
The ingredients for cakes, as well as for puddings, should all be
fresh and good, as well as free from damp; the lightness of many
kinds depends entirely on that given to the eggs by whisking, and by
the manner in which the whole is mixed. A small portion of carbo-
nate of soda, which will not be in the slightest degree perceptible to
the taste after the cake is baked, if thrown in just before the mixture
is put into the oven, will ensure its rising well.
To guard against the bitterness so often imparted by yeast when it
is used for cakes or biscuits, it should be sparingly added, and the
sponge should be left twice the usual time to rise. This method will
be found to answer equally with bread. For example: should a
couple of spoonsful of yeast be ordered in a receipt, when it is bitter,
use but one, and let it stand two hours instead of half the time: the
fermentation, though slow, will be quite as perfect as if it were more
quickly effected, and the cake or loaf thus made will not become
dry by any means as soon as if a larger portion of yeast were mixed
with it.
The German yeast when fresh is preferable to any other for
all light cakes, being made without hops and therefore never
bitter.
All light cakes require a rather brisk oven to raise and set them;
very large rich ones a well-sustained degree of heat sufficient to bake
them through; and small sugar-cakes a slow oven, to prevent their
taking a deep colour before they are half done: gingerbread, too,
should be gently baked, unless it be of the light thick kind. Me-
ringues, macaroons, and ratafias, will bear a slight degree more of
heat than these.
For sponge and savoy cakes the moulds should be thickly and
cvenly buttered, and fine sugar shaken in them until they are equally
covered with it: the loose sugar must be turned out before they are
used.
To ascertain whether a cake be done, thrust a larding needle or
bright skewer into the centre, and should this come out clean, draw
it from the oven directly; but should the paste adhere to it, continue
the baking. Several sheets of paper are placed usually under large
plum-cakes.
Cakes are rendered heavy by moving or shaking them after they
have risen in the oven, and before they have become firm. They
should be gently loosened and turned from the moulds when suf-
ficiently baked and set for a short time just at the mouth of the oven
to dry the surface, then laid upon their sides on a sieve until cold.


542
[CHAP. XXVI
MODERN COOKERY.
TO BLANCH AND TO POUND ALMONDS.
Put them into a saucepan with plenty of cold water, and heat it
slowly; when it is just scalding turn the almonds into a basin, peel,
and throw them into cold water as they are done: dry them well in
a soft cloth before they are used. If the water be too hot it will
turn them yellow.
Almonds are more easily pounded, and less liable to become oily, if
dried a little in a very gentle degree of heat after they are blanched;
left, for example, in a warm room for two or three days, lightly
spread on a large dish or tin. They should be sprinkled during the
beating with a few drops of cold water, or white of egg, or lemon-
juice, and pounded to a smooth paste: this is more easily done, we
believe, when they are first roughly chopped, but we prefer to have
them thrown at once into the mortar.
TO REDUCE ALMONDS TO A PASTE.
(The quickest and easiest way.)
Chop them a little on a large and very clean trencher, then with a
paste roller (rolling-pin), which ought to be thicker in the middle
than at the ends, roll them well until no small bits are perceptible
amongst them. We have found this method answer admirably; but
as some of the oil is expressed from the almonds by it, and absorbed
by the board, we would recommend a marble slab for them in pre-
ference, when it is at hand; and should they be intended for a sweet
dish, that some pounded sugar should be strewed under them. When
a board or strong trencher is used, it should be rather higher in the
middle than at the sides.
TO COLOUR ALMONDS OR SUGAR-GRAINS, OR SUGAR-CANDY, FOR
CAKES, OR PASTRY.
Blanch, dry, and chop them rather coarsely ; pour a little prepared
cochineal into the hands, and roll the almonds between them until
they are equally coloured ; then spread them on a sheet of paper, and
place them in a very gentle degree of heat to dry. Use spinage-
juice (see page 455), to colour them green, and a strong infusion of
saffron to give them a yellow tint. They have a pretty effect when
strewed over the icing of tarts or cakes, especially the rose-coloured
ones, which should be rather pale. The sugar is prepared in the
same way, after being first broken into lumps, and then, with the end
of a paste-roller, into grains about the size of a pea ; but unless it be
dry and hard, and carefully done, it will absorb too much of the
cochineal: when but slightly coloured it is very ornamental dropped


CHAP. XXVI.]
543
CAKES.
on the borders of creamed tourtes, or on other varieties of fine pastry.
White sugar-candy broken into large grains or crystals and coloured
in the same manner has a yet better effect.
TO PREPARE BUTTER FOR RICH CAKES.
For all large and very rich cakes the usual directions are, to beat
the butter to a cream; but we find that they are quite as light when
it is cut small and gently melted with just so much heat as will dis-
solve it, and no more.
If it be shaken round in a saucepan previously
warmed, and held near the fire for a short time, it will soon be
liquefied, which is all that is required : it must on no account be hot
when it is added to the other ingredients, to which it must be poured
in small portions after they are all mixed, in the way which we have
minutely described in the receipt for a Madeira cake, and that of the
Sutherland puddings (Chapter XXI.) To cream it, drain the
water well from it after it is cut, soften it a little before the fire
should it be very hard, and then with the back of a large strong
wooden spoon beat it until it resembles thick cream. When prepared
thus, the sugar is added to it first, and then the other ingredients in
succession. For plum-cakes it is better creamed than liquefied, as
the fruit requires a paste of some consistence to prevent its sinking to
the bottom of the mould in which it is baked. For plain seed-cakes
the more simple plan answers perfectly.
TO WHISK EGGS FOR LIGHT RICH CAKES.
Break them one by one, and separate the yolks from the whites:
this is done easily by pouring the yolk from one half of the shell to
the other, and letting the white drop from it into a basin beneath.
With a small three-pronged fork take out the specks from each egg
as it is broken, that none may accidentally escape notice. Whisk the
yolks until they appear light, and the whites until they are a quite
solid froth ; while any liquid remains at the bottom of the bowl they
are not sufficiently beaten : when a portion of them, taken up with
the whisk, and dropped from it, remains standing in points, they
are in the proper state for use, and should be mixed with the cake
directly.
SUGAR-GLAZINGS AND ICINGS.
(For Fine Pistry and Cakes.)
The clear glaze which resembles barley sugar, and which requires
to be as carefully guarded from damp, is given by just dipping the
surface of the pastry into liquid caramel (see Chapter Xxvii.); or by
sifting sugar thickly over it directly it is drawn from the oven, and
melting it down with a salamander, or red-hot shovel beld closely


544
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. XXVL
over it ; or by setting it again into an oven sufficiently heated to dis-
solve the sugar : though this latter method is not so well, as there is
danger from it of the paste being scorched. To make a fine white or
coloured icing, whisk, as directed above, the whites of four fresh eggs
to a perfectly solid froth, then, with a wooden spoon or spatula, mix
gradually with them one pound of the best sugar, which has been
dried, and sifted through a fine sieve: work them together for a
minute or two, and add less than a dessertspoonful of strained lemon-
juice; spread it even over the cake or pastry, and dry it very gently
indeed, either in a quite cool oven, or in a meat screen placed before
the fire. From the difference in the size of eggs, a little more or less
of sugar may be required for this icing. It may be coloured with a
very few drops of prepared cochineal to give it a rose tint.
Whites of eggs beaten to snow, 4; sugar, 1 lb. ; lemon-juice, small
dessertspoonful.
ORANGE-FLOWER MACAROONS. (DELICIOUS.)
Have ready two pounds of very dry white sifted sugar. Weigh
two ounces of the petals of freshly gathered orange-blossoms after
they have been picked from the stems; and cut them very small
with a pair of scissors into the sugar, as they will become discoloured
if not mixed with it quickly after they are cut. When all are done,
add the whites of seven eggs, and whisk the whole well together until
it looks like snow; then drop the mixture on paper without delay,
and send the cakes to a very cool oven.
Pounded sugar, 2 lbs.; orange-blossoms, 2 oz.; whites of eggs, 7.
20 minutes or more.
Obs.- It is almost impossible to state with accuracy the precise time
required for these cakes, so much depends on the oven : they should
be very delicately coloured, and yet dried through.
ALMOND MACAROONS.
Blanch a pound of fresh Jordan almonds, wipe tlıcm dry, and set
them into a very cool oven to render them perfectly so; pound then
to an exceedingly smooth paste, with a little white of egg, then whisk
to a firm solid froth the white of seven eggs, or of eight, should they
be small ; mix with them a pound and a half of the finest sugar; add
these by degrees to the almonds, whisk the whole up well together,
and drop the mixture upon wafer-paper, which may be procured at
the confectioner's: bake the cakes in a moderate oven a very pale
brown. It is an improvement to their flavour to substitute an ounce
of bitter almonds for one of the sweet. They are sometimes made
with an equal weight of each; and another variety of them is ob-
tained by gently browning the almonds in a slow oven before they
are pounded.


CHAP. XXYI.]
545
CAKES
Jordan almonds blanched, 1 lb.: sugar, 1} lb. : whites of 7 or 8
eggs. 15 to 20 minutes.
VERY FINE COCOA-NUT MACAROONS.
Rasp a fresh cocoa-nut, spread it on a dish or tin, and let it dry
gridually for a couple of days, if it can be done conveniently; add
to it double its weight of fine sifted sugar, and the whites of eight
eggs beaten to a solid froth (see page 543), to the pound. Roll the
mixture into small balls, place them on a buttered tin, and bake
them in a very gentle oven about twenty minutes. Move them from
the tin while they are warm, and store them in a very dry canister as
soon as they are cold.
Cocoa-nut, 1 lb.; sugar, 1 lb.: whites of eggs, 8: very gentle
oven, 20 minutes.
IMPERIALS. (NOT VERY RICH.)
Work into a pound of flour six ounces of butter, and mix well
with them half a pound of sifted sugar, six ounces of currants, two
ounces of candied orange-peel, the grated rind of a lemon, and four
well-beaten eggs. Flour a tin lightly, and with a couple of forks
place the paste upon it in small rough heaps quite two inches apart.
Bake them in a very gentle oven, from a quarter of an hour to
twenty minutes, or until they are equally coloured to a pale brown.
Flour 1 lb.; butter, 6 oz. ; sugar, 8 oz.; currants, 6 oz. ; candied
peel, 2 oz.; rind of 1 lemon; eggs, 4: 15 to 20 minutes.
FINE ALMOND CAKE.
Blanch, dry, and pound to the finest possible paste, eight ounces of
fresh Jordan almonds, and one ounce of bitter; moisten them with
a few drops of cold water or white of egg, to prevent their oiling;
then mix with them very gradually twelve fresh eggs which have
been whisked until they are exceedingly light; throw in by degrees
one pound of fine, dry, sifted sugar, and keep the mixture light by
constant beating, with a large wooden spoon, as the separate in-
gredients are added. Mix in by degrees three-quarters of a pound
of dried and sifted flour of the best quality; then pour gently from
the sediment a pound of butter which has been just melted, lut not
allowed to become hot, and beat it very gradually, but very
thoroughly, into the cake, letting one portion entirely disappear
before another is thrown in; add the rasped or finely-grated rinds of
two sound fresh lemons, fill a thickly-buttered mould rather more
than half full with the mixture, and bake the cake from an hour
and a half to 'wo hours in a well-heated oven. Lay paper over the
top when it is sufficiently coloured, and guard carefully against its
being burned.
N N


516
[CAAP, XXVI.
MODERN COOKERY.
Jordan almonds, } lb.; bitter almonds, 1 oz. ; eggs, 12; sugar, 1
Ib. ; flour, & lb.; butter, 1 lb.; rinds lemons, 2: 14 to 2 hours.
Obs.— Three-quarters of a pound of almonds may be mixed with
this cake when so large a portion of them is liked, but an additional
ounce or two of sugar, and one egg or more, will then be required.
PLAIN POUND OR CURRANT CAKE.
(Or rich Brawn Brack, or Borrow Brack.)
Mix, as directed in the foregoing receipt, ten eggs (some cooks
take a pound in weight of these), one pound of sugar, one of fiour,
and as much of butter. For a plum-cake, let the butter be worked
to a cream ; add the sugar to it first, then the yolks of the eggs,
next stir lightly in the whites, after which, add one pound of cur-
rants and the candied peel, and, last of all, the flour by degrees, and
a glass of brandy when it is liked. Nearly or quite two hours'
paking will be required for this, and one hour for half the quantity.
To convert the above into the popular Irish “ speckled bread," or
Braun Brack of the richer kind, add to it three ounces of carraway-
seeds: these are sometim used in combination with the currants,
but more commonly without. To ice a cake see the receipt for
Sugar Glazings at the commencement of this Chapter, page 543. A
rose-tint may be given to the icing with a little prepared cochineal,
as we have said there.
RICE CAKE.
Take six eggs, with their weight in fine sugar, and in butter also,
and half their weight of flour of rice, and half of wheaten flour;
make the cake as directed for the Madeira or almond cake, but
throw in the rice after the flour; then add the butter in the usual
way, and bake the cake about an hour and ten minutes. Give any
flavour that is liked. The butter may be altogether omitted. This
is a moderate-sized cake.
Eggs, in the shell, 6; their weight in butter and in sugar; half as
much flour of rice, and the same of wheaten flour: 1 hour, 10
minutes.
WHITE CAKE.
Beat half a pound of fresh butter to a cream, add to it an equal
weight of dried and sifted sugar, the yolks and whites of eight eggs,
separately whisked, two ounces of candied orange-peel, half a tea-
spoonful of mace, a glass of brandy, one pound of four strewed in by
degrees, and last of all a pound and a quarter of currants. Directly
it is mixed send the cake to a well-heated oven, and bake it for two
hours. Four ounces of pounded almonds are sometimes added to it.


CHAP. XXVI.]
547
CAKES.
Butter, 1 lb. sugar, : lb.; eggs, 8; mace, 1 teaspoonful; brandy,
1 wineglassful; flour, 1 lb.; candied-peel, 2 oz.: currants, 1} lb. : 3
hours.
A GOOD SPONGE CAKE.
Rasp on some lumps of well-refined sugar the rind of a fine sound
lemon, and scrape off the part which has imbibed the essence, or
crush the lumps to powder, and add them to as much more as will
make up the weight of eight or ten fresh eggs in the shell ; break
these one by one, and separate the whites from the yolks; beat the
latter in a large bowl for ten minutes, then strew in the sugar
gradually, and beat them well together. In the mean time let the
whites be whisked to a quite solid froth, add them to the yolks, and
when they they are well blended sift and stir the flour gently to
to them, but do not beat it into the mixture; pour the cake into a
well-buttered mould, and bake it an hour and a quarter in a mo-
derate oven.
Rasped rind, 1 large lemon ; fresh eggs, 8 or 10; their weight of
dry, sifted sugar; and half their weight of flour: baked, 11 hour,
moderate oven.
A SMALLER SPONGE CAKE.
(Very good.)
Five full-sized eggs, the weight of four in sugar, and of nearly
three in flour, will make an exceedingly good cake: it may be
flavoured, like the preceding one, with lemon-rind, or with bitter
almonds, vanilla, or confected orange-blossoms reduced to powder.
An hour will bake it thoroughly. All the ingredients for sponge
cakes should be of good quality, and the sugar and flour should
be dry; they should also be passed through a fine sieve kept ex-
pressly for such purposes. The excellence of the whole depends
much on the manner in which the eggs are whisked: this should be
done as lightly as possible, but it is a mistake to suppose that they
cannot be too long beaten, as after they are brought to a state of
perfect firmness they are injured by a continuation of the whisking,
and will at times curdle, and render a cake heavy from this cause.
FINE VENETIAN CAKE OR CAKES.
Take of sound Jordan almonds, blanched and well dried at the
mouth of a cool oven or in a sunny window, seven ounces, full
weight, and one of bitter almonds with them; pound the whole to a
perfect paste with a few drops of white of egg or orange-flower
water; then mix them thoroughly with one pound of flour and
eight ounces of butter (which should be cool and firm, or it will
render the paste too soft), and break this down quite small; then


648
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. xxvi.
add eight ounces of pounded sugar, on part of which the rind of a
fine lemon has been rasped previously to its being crushed to powder.
Make these into a paste with the yolks of four eggs, or with rather
less should they be large, for if too moist, it will adhere to the board
and roller. To make a Venetian cake of moderate size, roll the
paste less than a quarter of an inch thick, and cut with the larger
fluted cutter, shown at page 376, six or seven portions of equal size;
lay them on lightly floured or buttered tins, and bake them in a
slow oven until they are firm and crisp, and equally coloured of a
pale brown. Should they seem to require it, lay them one on the
other, while they are still warm, and place a baking-tin, with a slight
weight upon them to render them quite level.
When they are
cold, spread upon each a different kind of choice preserve, and pile
the whole evenly into the form of an entire cake. The top may be
iced, and decorated with pistachio-nuts, or grains of coloured sugar,
or with a wreath of almond-paste leaves. There are many varieties
of this dish, which is known by different names in different countries.
It is sometimes called a Neapolitan Cake, sometimes a Thousand
Leaf Cake à la Française. It is occasionally made entirely of almoud-
paste, and highly decorated ; it may be formed also of many layers
of puff or fine short crust cut of uniform size, or gradually less, so as
to leave round each a clear border of an inch wide, which may be
covered with coloured icing, or ornamented with preserved fruit,
tinted almonds, grains of white or pink sugar candy, or aught else
that the fancy may direct.
To make the small Venetian cakes, roll the paste directed for the
large one at the commencement of this receipt, into balls, flatten
them with the hand to about the third of an inch thick, brush them
with beaten egg, and cover them plentifully with white sugar-candy
crushed about half the size of a pea: bake them in a slow oven.
Almonds, 8 oz.; flour, 1 lb.; butter, 8 oz.; sugar, 1 lb.; rind of
1 lemon; yolks of eggs, 3 to 4; pre
erve as needed.
A GOOD MADEIRA CAKE.
Whisk four fresh eggs until they are as light as possible, then,
continuing still to whisk them, throw in by slow degrees the follow-
ing ingredients in the order in which they are written: six ounces of
dry, pounded, and siſted sugar ; six of four, also dried and sifted ;
four ounces of butter just dissolved, but not heated; the rind of a
fresh lemon ; and the instant before the cake is moulded, beat well in
the third of a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda: bake it an hour in a
moderate oven. In this, as in all compositions of the same nature,
observe particularly that each portion of butter must be beaten into
the mixture until no appearance of it remains before the next is
added ; and if this be done, and the preparation be kept light by con-
stant and light whisking, the cake will be as good, if not better, than


CHAP. XXVI.
549
CAKES.
if the butter were creamed. Candied citron can be added to the
paste, but it is not needed.
Eggs, 4; sugar, 6 oz.; flour, 6 oz.; butter, 4 oz.; rind of i lemon;
carbonate of soda, $ of teaspoonful: 1 hour, moderate oven.
A SOLIMEMNE.
A rich French breakfast cake, or Sally Lunn.
From three-quarters of a pound of flour take three ounces for the
leaven, and make it into a lithe paste with half an ounce of solid, well-
washed yeast (see Chapter XXXI.), mixed with two or three
tablespoonsful of just warm cream, or new milk; throw a cloth over
and leave it near the fire to rise for about half an hour, or until it is
twice its original size. In the interim make a hollow in the centre of
the remainder of the flour, and put into it a quarter of an ounce of
fine salt, one ounce of pounded sugar, the yolks of four fresh eggs,
four ounces of lukewarm butter, and a couple of tablespoonsful of
cream, also warm. Mix the whole gently and carefully into a per-
fectly smooth paste, flatten it with the hand upon the dresser, spread
the leaven over it, and blend them thoroughly with light kneading,
as directed for brioche paste, page 349. The whole should be of the
same colour throughout.
Next, put it into a small, well-buttered copper stewpan, or plain
cake-mould, and let it remain in a moderately warm place until it
has risen, like the leaven, to double its original size ; then with a
paste-brush or feather wash the top with beaten egg, and without
disturbing it, set it into a tolerably quick oven, and bake it nearly or
quite an hour ; but do not allow it to be too deeply coloured. Turn
it from the mould, cut it once or twice asunder, and pour over the
slices plenty of good butter, just dissolved in a small saucepan; put
the cake together again, and serve it immediately. It may be con-
verted into an excellent entremêts by spreading currant, or other fine
jelly, or preserve, quickly upon it when it is cut, and sifting sugar
thickly on the top after it is restored to its proper form: it is then
called a Dresden cake. We think that when left until cold and
toasted, the solimemne is even better than when served hot. It will
be many hours rising; sometimes as many as six or eight. If wanted
for breakfast it should be made over night.
Flour 3 lb.; yeast, } oz.; little cream; salt, 4 oz.; sugar, 1 oz. ;
polks of eggs, 4; butter, 4 oz.: to rise from 6 to 8 hours. Baked i
hour.
BAXBURY CAKES.
First, mix well together a pound of currants, cleaned with great
nicety and dried, a quarter-pound of beef suet, finely minced, three
ounces each of candied orange and lemon-rind, shred small, a few
grains of salt, a full quarter-ounce of pounded cinnamon and nutmeg


550
[CHAP. XXVI
MODERN COOKERY.
mixed, and four ounces of macaroons or ratafias rolled to powder,
Next, make a light paste with fourteen ounces of butter to the pound
of flour ; give it an extra turn or two to prevent its rising too much
in the oven ; roll out one half in a very thin square, and spread the
mixed fruit and spice equally upon it; moisten the edges, lay on the
remaining half of the paste, rolled equally thin, press the edges
securely together, mark the whole with the back of a knife in regular
divisions of two inches wide and three in length, bake the pastry in a
well-heated oven from twenty-five to thirty minutes, and divide it
into cakes while it is still warm. They may be served as a second
course dish either hot or cold, and may be glazed at pleasure.
Currants, 1 lb. ; beef-suet, 4 oz.; candied orange and lemon-rind
each, 3 oz. ; salt, small pinch ; mixed spices, oz.; macaroons or
ratafias, 4 oz.: baked 25 to 30 minutes.
<
MERINGUES.

Whisk, to the firmest possible
froth, the whites of six very
fresh eggs, taking every pre-
caution against a particle of the
yolk falling in amongst them.
Lay some squares or long strips
of writing-paper closely upon a
board or upon very clean tren-
chers, which ought to be nearly
or quite an inch thick, to pre-
vent the meringues from re-
ceiving any colour from the
bottom of the oven. When all
is ready, mix with the eggs three-quarters of a pound of the finest
sugar, well dried, and sifted ; stir them together for half a minute,
then with a table or dessertspoon lay the mixture quickly on the
papers in the form of a half-egg, sift sugar over them without delay,
blow off with the bellows all that does not adhere, and set the me-
ringues into a gentle oven. The process must be expeditious, or the
sugar melting will cause the cakes to spread, instead of retaining the
shape of the spoon, as they ought. The whole art of making them,
indeed, appears to us to consist in preserving their proper form, and
the larger the proportion of sugar worked into the eggs, the more
easily this will be done. When they are coloured to a light brown,
and are firm to the touch, draw them out, turn the papers gently
over, separating the meringues from them, and with a teaspoon scoop
out sufficient of the insides to form a space for some whipped cream
or preserve, and put them again into the oven upon clean sheets of
paper, with the moist sides uppermost, to dry: when they are crisp
through they are done. Let them become cold; fill, and then join
them together with a little white of egg so as to give them the ap-
a


CHAP. XXVI.]
CAKES.
551
pearance shown in the plate. Spikes of pistachio nuts, or almonds,
can be stuck over them, as represented there, at pleasure. They
afford always, if well made, a second course dish of elegant appear-
ance, and they are equally ornamental to breakfasts or suppers of
ceremony. They are made in perfection by the pastry-cooks in
France, being equally light, delicate, and delicious. Much of their
excellence, it must be observed, depends at all times on the attention
they receive in the baking, as well as in the previous preparation.
They must, of course, be quite cold before the preserve or cream is
laid into them. From four to six ounces of almonds, finely pow-
dered, may be smoothly mixed with the other ingredients for them ;
and they may be flavoured with citron, lemon, or orange-rind by
rasping the skins of the fruit with part of the sugar with which they
are to be made; then drying, and reducing it to powder.
Whites of very fresh eggs, 6; sugar, 4 lb.: gentle oven, 20 to 30
minutes.
ITALIAN MERINGUES.
Take for these the proportion of whites of eggs and sugar already
indicated in the receipt for Nesselrôde pudding, page 491, that is to
say, six to the pound, or half that quantity for a small number of
meringues. Boil the sugar with a pint of water until it whitens, and
begins to fall in flakes from the skimmer; have the eggs whisked to
a perfectly solid froth quite ready at the proper moment, and when
the sugar has stood for two or three minutes, and been worked well
from the sides of the pan, mingle them gradually, but very quickly,
with it, that the mass may be quite smooth ; continue to stir them
until they become firm enough to retain their shape perfectly when
moulded with a teaspoon; lay out the cakes on paper, and place them
in an oven so slow as to harden without giving them colour. As
they are not to be filled, but merely fastened together, they may
be baked on tins. Part of them may be varied by the addition of
three or four ounces of pounded almonds mixed thoroughly with the
remainder of the eggs and sugar, when a portion of the meringues
have been moulded : these, however, will require to be much longer
baked than the others; but they will be excellent. They should be
lightly browned, and crisp quite through.
Sugar, 1 lb.; water, 1 pint; whites of eggs, 6 : very slow oven, 20
to 30 minutes, or longer.
THICK, LIGHT GINGERBREAD.
Crumble down very small, eight ounces of butter into a couple of
pounds of flour, then add to, and mix thoroughly with them, half a
pound of good brown sugar, two ounces of powdered ginger, and
half an punce of ground carraway-seeds; beat gradually to these,
first two pounds of treacle, next three well-whisked eggs, and last


552
CHAP. XIL
MODERN COOKERY.
of all half an ounce of carbonate of soda,* dissolved in a very small
cupful of warm water; stir the whole briskly together, pour the
mixture into very shallow tins, put it immediately into a moderate
oven, and bake it for an hour and a half. The gingerbread made
thus will be remarkably light and good. For children part of the
spice and butter may be omitted.
Flour, 2 lbs.; butter, 8 oz. ; sugar, } lb.; powdered ginger, 2 oz. ;
eggs, 3; carbonate of soda, 1 oz.; water, very small cupful : baked 11
hour.
Obs.-We think that something less than the half ounce of soda
would be sufficient for this gingerbread, for with the whole quantity
it rises in the oven to three times its height, and is apt to run over
the tops of the tins, even when they are but half filled with it at first;
or if it were well beaten into the mass without any water, after being
carefully freed from lumps and mixed with a little sugar, the cake
would still be quite light.
ACTON GINGERBREAD.
Whisk four strained or well-cleared eggs to the lightest possible
froth (French eggs, if really sweet, will answer for the purpose), and
pour to them, by deg rees, a pound and a quarter of treacle, still
beating them lightly. Add, in the same manner, six ounces of pale
brown sugar free from lumps, one pound of sifted flour, and six
ounces of good butter, just sufficiently warmed to be liquid, and no
more, for if hot, it would render the cake heavy ; it should be poured
in small portions to the mixture, which should be well beaten up with
the back of a wooden spoon as each portion is thrown in: the success
of the cake depends almost entirely on this part of the process.
When properly mingled with the mass, the butter will not be per-
ceptible on the surface; and if the cake be kept light by constant
whisking, large bubbles will appear in it to the last. When it is so
far ready, add to it one ounce of Jamaica ginger and a large tea-
spoonful of cloves in fine powder, with the lightly grated rinds of
two fresh full-sized lemons. Butter thickly, in every part, a shallow
square tin pan, and bake the gingerbread slowly for nearly or quite
an hour in a gentle oven. Let it cool a little before it is turned out,
and set it on its edge until cold, supporting it, if needful, against a
large jar or bowl. We have usually had it baked in an American
oven, in a tin less than two inches deep; and it has been excellent.
We retain the name given to it originally in our own circle.
CHEAP AND VERY GOOD GINGER OVEN-CAKE OR CAKES.
Four French eggs (which must be perfectly sweet, or small
• This should always be of the very best quality when used for cakes. Car.
bonate of ammonia is recommended in preference to it by some writers.


CHAP. XXVI.]
555
CAKES.
pinch of salt and four ounces of pounded sugar; hollow the centre,
and stir into it a large tablespoonful of solid well-washed yeast (or
an ounce of German yeast which will ferment more quickly), diluted
with three-quarters of a pint of warm new milk; when sufficient of
the surrounding flour is mixed with it to form a thick batter strew
more flour on the top, lay a cloth once or twice folded together over
the pan, and let it remain until the leaven has become very light:
this it will generally be in an hour and a quarter, or, at the utmost,
in an hour and a half. The fermentation may be quickened by in-
creasing the proportion of yeast, but this is better avoided, as it may
chance to render the cake bitter; additional time, however, must
always be allowed for it to rise when but a small quantity is used.
When the leaven is at the proper height, add to a couple of well
whisked eggs, sufficient nearly-boiling milk to warm them, and mix
them with the other ingredients; then beat well into the cake by
degrees, eight ounces more of pounded sugar, and half a grated nut-
meg; cut from two to three ounces of candied citron thin, and strew
over it ; leave it again to rise, as before, for about three-quarters of
an hour; mix the citron equally with it, put it into a thickly but-
tered tin or earthen pan, and bake it in a quick oven for an hour and
ten minutes at the least, and after it is placed in it let it not be moved
until it is quite set, or it will possibly be heavy at the top. The
grated rinds of a couple of lemons will improve its flavour. Fine
Lisbon sugar can be used to sweeten it instead of pounded, but the
difference of expense would be very slight, and the cake would not be
so good; the quantity can, of course, be diminished when it is con-
sidered too much. Three-quarters of a pound of currants can, at
choice, be substituted for the citron. Three ounces of carraway
seeds will convert it into common brown brack, or Irish seed-cake.
For the manner of purifying yeast, see Chapter XXXI.
A VERY CHEAP LUNCHEON BISCUIT, OR NURSERY CAKE.
Two or three pounds of white bread dough taken when ready for
the oven, will make a good light biscuit if well managed, with the
addition of from half to three-quarters of a pound of sugar, a very
small quantity of butter, and a few currants, or carraway-seeds, or a
teaspoonful of mixed spices. The dough should be rather firm; the
butter should first be well kneaded into it in small portions, then the
sugar added in the same way, and next the currants or spice. The
whole should be perfectly and equally mingled, flour being slightly
dredged upon it as it is worked, if needful. °It must then be allowed
to rise until it is very light, when it should again be kneaded down,
but not heavily; and when it has more risen, it should be sent
without delay to the oven. An ounce of butter to the pound of
dough will be sufficient for it. Much richer cakes can be made thus,
and they will be extremely good if care be taken to let them rise


556
MODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. XXVI
sufficiently before they are baked. We regret that we cannot mul.
tiply our receipts for them. Sultana raisins are an excellent sub-
stitute for currants in these and other common cakes.
ISLE OF WIGHT DOUGH-NUTS.
Work smoothly together with the fingers four ounces of good lard,
and four pounds of flour; add half a pound of fine brown sugar, two
tablespoonsful of allspice, one drachm of pounded cinnamon, half as
much of cloves, two large blades of mace, beaten to powder, two
tablespoonsful of fresh yeast which has been watered for one night,
and which should be solid, and as much new milk as will make the
whole into a rather firm dough ; let this stand from an hour to an
hour and a half near the fire, then knead it well, and make it into
balls about the size of a small apple ; hollow them with the thumb, and
enclose a few currants in the middle; gather the paste well over
them, and throw the dough-nuts into a saucepan half filled with
boiling lard; when they are equally coloured to a fine brown, lift
them out and dry them before the fire on the back of a sieve. When
they are made in large quantities, as they are at certain seasons in the
island, they are drained upon very clean straw. The lard should
boil only just before they are dropped into it, or the outsides will be
scorched before the insides are sufficiently done.
Flour, 4 lbs.; lard, 4 oz. ; sugar, } lb. ; allspice, 2 tablespoonsful ;
pounded cinnamon, 1 drachm; cloves and mace, each drachm ;
yeast (solid), two large tablespoonsful: to rise, 1 to 14 hour. Cur-
rants, at choice : dough-nuts boiled in lard, 5 to 7 minutes.
QUEEN CAKES.
To make these, proceed exactly as for the pound currant-cake of
page 546, but bake the mixture in small well-buttered tin pans
(heart-shaped ones are usual), in a somewhat brisk oven, for about
twenty minutes.
JUMBLES.
Rasp on some good sugar the rinds of two lemons ; dry, reduce it
to powder, and sift it with as much more as will make up a pound in
weight; mix with it one pound of flour, four well-beaten eggs, and
six ounces of warm butter: drop the mixture on buttered tins, and
*bake the jumbles in a very slow oven from twenty to thirty minutes.
They should be pale, but perfectly crisp.
A GOOD SODA CAKE.
Break down half a pound * of fresh butter into a pound of fine
Six ounces would to many tastes be quite sufficient, and the less butter the
cake contains the better.


CHAP. XXVI.]
557
CAKES.
dry flour, and work it into very small crumbs; mix well with these
half a pound of sifted sugar, and pour to them first, a quarter of a
pint of boiling milk, and next, three well-whisked eggs; add some
grated nutmeg, or fresh lemon-rind, and eight ounces of currants,
cleaned and dried ; beat the whole well and lightly together, then
strew in a very small teaspoonful of good carbonate of soda in the
finest powder, which has been rubbed through a sieve and well mixed
with a little sugar, and again beat the cake well and lightly for
three or four minutes; put it into a buttered mould, and bake it
from an hour to an hour and a quarter; or divide it in two, when
three-quarters of an hour will be sufficient for each part.
Flour, 1 lb.; butter, 1 lb.; sugar, 1 lb.; boiling milk, full pint;
eggs, 3; currants, lb.; good carbonate of soda, 1 very small tea-
spoonful: 1 to 14 hour. Or: divided in two, į to hour.
Obs.—This, if carefully made, resembles a pound cake, but is
much less expensive, and far more wholesome, while it has the
advantage of being very expeditiously prepared. Great care, how-
ever, must be taken to avoid mixing with it too large a proportion,
or a coarse quality of soda; as either will impart to it à far from
agreeable flavour.
GOOD SCOTTISH SHORTBREAD.
With one pound of flour mix well two ounces of sifted sugar, and
one of candied orange-rind or citron, sliced small; make these into
a paste with from eight to nine ounces of good butter, made suf-
ficiently warm to be liquid ; press the paste together with the hands,
and mould it upon tins into large cakes nearly an inch thick, pinch
the edges, and bake the shortbread in a moderate oven for twenty
minutes, or longer, should it not be quite crisp, but do not allow it to
become deeply coloured.
Flour, 1 lb. ; sugar, 2 oz.; candied orange or citron, 1 oz.; butter,
8 to 9 oz.: 20 minutes or more.
Obs.— This, to many persons, is a very indigestible compound,
though agreeable to the taste.
A GALETTE.
The galette is a favourite cake in France, and may be made rich
and comparatively delicate, or quite common, by using more or less
butter for it, and by augmenting or diminishing the size. Work
lightly three-quarters of a pound of good butter into a pound of
flour, add a large saltspoonful of salt, and make these into a paste
with the yolks of a couple of eggs mixed with a small cupful of good
cream, or simply with water; roll this into a complete rou:ad, three-
quarters of an inch thick ; score it in small diamonds, brush yolk of
egg over the top, and bake the galette for about liaif an hour in a


558
[CHAP. XXVI.
MODERN COOKERY.
tolerably quick oven: it is usually eaten hot, but is served cold also.
An ounce of sifted sugar is sometimes added to it.
A good galette: flour, 1 lb. ; butter, 1 lb.; salt, 1 saltspoonful ;
yolks of eggs, 2; cream, small cupful: baked hour. Common
galette : flour, 2 lbs.; butter, i to 1 lb.; no eggs.
SMALL SUGAR CAKES OF VARIOUS KINDS.
To make very sweet rich sugar cakes mingle, first working it very
small with the fingers, half a pound of butter with each pound of
flour: if more than this proportion be used the paste will be too soft
to permit the addition of the proper number of eggs. Next, blend
thoroughly with these three-quarters of a pound of dry sifted sugar,
and the grated rinds of two small fresh lemons (for lemon-cakes the
strained juice of one is generally added), or a dessertspoonful of
cinnamon freshly pounded; or from one ounce to two ounces of car-
raway-seeds; or a similar proportion of the finest powdered ginger;
or three-quarters of a pound of very dry well cleaned currants. A
slight pinch of salt should be thrown in with the sugar. If to be
made into flat cakes proceed to moisten these ingredients gradually
with from two eggs to four slightly whisked, and when they form 3
firm paste, proceed quickly to roll and to stamp them out with a cake
tin; for as the sugar dissolves with the moisture of the eggs, the
paste will otherwise become so lithe as to adhere to the board and
roller. When it is to be merely dropped on the oaking-sheets, it
will require an additional egg or more. The cakes should then be
placed quite two inches apart, as they will spread in the baking.
Five ounces of butter with six of sugar to the pound of flour, two
large eggs, and a small quantity of milk, vill be sufficient for quite
cheap sugar cakes: any flavour can be given to them as to those
which precede, and they can be rendered more or less sweet to the
taste by altering the proportion of sugar: this should always be
siſted, or at least reduced quite to powder, before it is used for them.
One ounce more of butter will render them very good. They should
be rolled a quarter of an inch thick.
Rich : to each lb. of flour, butter, į lb.; sugar, lb.; eggs, 2 to 4.
(Lemon-rinds, cinnamon, carraway-seeds, or ginger, or currants at
choice), small pinch of salt. Slow oven about 20 minutes.
Obs.- The cakes should be but lightly coloured, and yet baked
quite through.
FLEED OR FLEAD CAKES.
These are very much served as a tea-cake at the tables of the
superior order of Kentish farmers. For the mode of making them,
proceed as for flead-crust (see Chapter XVI.); cut the cakes small
with a round cutter, and leave them more than half an inch thick: if


CHAP. XXVI.]
559
CAKES.
well made they will rise much in the oven. Bake them rather
quickly, but keep them pale.
Flour, 2 lbs.; flead, * 14 lb. ; butter, 6 oz. : baked 10 to 15
minutes.
LIGHT BUNS OF DIFFERENT KINDS.
Quite plain buns without butter.- Very good light buns may be made
entirely without butter, but they must be tolerably fresh when
served. To make them, dilute very smoothly an ounce of sweet
German yeast or a large tablespoonful of quite solid and well
washed English yeast with a pint of warm new milk ; mix this
immediately with as much flour as it will convert into a rather thick
batter, throw a double cloth over the pan, and place it where the
warmth of the fire will search, without heating it. When it is well
risen and bubbles appear on the top, add a little salt, some pounded
sugar, and as much flour as will form it into a light dough. Leave it
to rise again, when it will probably be too little firm for moulding
with the fingers, and must be beaten up with a strong wooden spoon
and put into cups or tin pans slightly buttered, to be baked. The
buns should be sent to a quick oven, and baked until the entire
surface is well browned. These directions may appear to the reader
somewhat vague ; but we must frankly state that we have no precise
memorandum by us of this receipt, though we have had buns made
by it very successfully in former years : we cannot, however,
exactly recall the proportion of flour which was used for them, but
believe it was about two pounds. For this quantity half a pound of
sugar would be sufficient. The batter will be a long time rising to
the proper height; an hour and a half or two hours. Currants,
carraways, nutmeg, or mixed spices, can always be added at dis-
cretion.
It is usual to strew a few currants on the tops of the buns before
they are baked.
To render them richer and firmer, it is merely necessary to di-
minish the proportion of milk, and to crumble up very small two or
more ounces of butter in the flour which is added to the batter after
it has risen. When again quite light, the dough may then be rolled
into balls, and placed on flat tins some inches apart until they have
spread to the proper shape. Confectioners generally wash the tops
with milk, and sift a little sugar over them.
Exeter Burs.— These are somewhat celebrated in the city whose
name they bear, especially those of one maker whose secret for them
we have recently obtained. Instead of being made into a dough with
milk, Devonshire cream is used for them, either entirely or in part.
If very thick, a portion of water should be added to it, or the yeast
would not ferment freely. The better plan is to dilute it with a
quarter of a pint or rather more of warm water, and when it is suffi.
ciently risen to make up the buns lightly, like bread, with the cream,


560
MODERN COOKERY.
(CHAP. XXVI.
which must also be warm; then to proceed by the receipt given
above.
PLAIN DESSERT OR WINE BISCUITS, AND GINGER BISCUITS.
Rub very small indeed, two ounces of fresh butter into a pound of
flour, and inake it into a stiff paste with new milk. Roll it out half
an inch thick, and cut the biscuits with a round cutter the size of
kalf-a-crown. Pile them one on the other until all are done; then
rull them out very thin, prick them, and lay them on lightly-floured
tins, the pricked side downwards: a few minutes will bake them, in a
moderate oven They should be very crisp, and but slightly
browned.
For the Ginger Biscuits.— Three ounces of good butter, with two
pounds of flour, then add three ounces of pounded sugar and two of
ginger in fine powder, and knead them into a stiff paste, with new
milk. Roll it thin, stamp out the biscuits with a cutter, and bake
them in a slow oven until they are crisp quite through, but keep
them of a pale colour. A couple of eggs are sometimes mixed
with the milk for them, but are no material improvement : an
additional ounce of sugar may be used when a sweeter biscuit is
liked.
Plain biscuits : flour 1 lb.; butter, 2 oz. ; new milk about s pint.
Ginger biscuits : flour, 2 lbs. ; butter, 3 oz.; sugar, 3 oz.; ginger,
2 oz
THREADNEEDLE STREET BISCUITS.
Mix with two pounds of sifted flour of the very best quality three
ounces of good butter, and work it into the smallest possible crumbs ;
add four ounces of fine, dry, sifted sugar, and make them into a firm
paste with new milk; beat this forcibly for some time with a rolling-
pin, and when it is extremely smooth roll it the third of an inch
thick, cut it with a small square cutter, and bake the biscuits in a
very slow oven until they are crisp to the centre: no part of them
should remain soft. Halt a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda is said
to improve them, but we have not put it to the test. Carraway-seeds
can be added when they are liked.
Flour, 2 lbs.; butter, 3 oz. ; sugar, 4 oz ; new milk, 1 pint or more ;
biscuits slowly baked until crisp.
GOOD CAPTAIN'S BISCUITS.
Make some fine white flour into a very smooth paste with new
milk; divide it into small balls; roll them out, and afterwards pull
them with the fingers as thin as possible ; prick them all over, and
bake them in a somewhat brisk oven from ten to twelve minutes.
These are excellent and very wholesome biscuits.


CHAP. XXVI.]
561
CAKES
THE COLONEL'S BISCUITS.
Mix a slight pinch of salt with some fine sifted flour; make it into
a smooth paste with thin cream, and bake the biscuits gently, after
having prepared them for the oven like those which precede. Store
them as soon as they are cold in a dry canister, to preserve them
crisp: they are excellent.
AUNT CHARLOTTE'S BISCUITS.
These biscuits, which are very simple and very good, may be made
with the same dough as fine white bread, with the addition of from
half to a whole ounce of butter to the pound kneaded into it after it
has risen. Break the butter small, spread out the dough a little,
knead it in well and equally, and leave it for about half an hour to
rise ; then roll it a quarter of an inch thick, prick it well all over,
cut out the biscuits, and bake them in a moderate oven from ten to
fifteen minutes : they should be crisp quite through, but not deeply
coloured.
White-bread dough, 2 lbs.; butter, 1 to 2 oz. : to rise 1 hour
Baked in moderate oven 10 to 15 minutes.
Obs.- To make the biscuits by themselves, proceed as for Bordyke
bread; but use new milk for them, and work three ounces of butter
into two pounds of flour before the yeast is added.
EXCELLENT SODA BUNS.
Work into half a pound of flour three ounces of butter, until it is
quite in crumbs ; mix thoroughly with them four ounces of sugar,
the slightest pinch of salt, an ounce, or rather more, of candied
orange or lemon rind, shred extremely small, and a little grated nut-
meg; to these pour boiling a small teacupful of cream, or of milk
when this cannot be had; mix them a little, and add immediately
two eggs, leaving out the white of one, and when the whole is weil
mingled, dust over, and beat well into it, less than half a teaspoonful
of good carbonate of soda, perfectly free from lumps; rub an oven-
tin with butter, drop the buns upon it with a spoon, and send them
to a moderate oven.“ When they are firm to the touch in every part,
and well coloured underneath, they are done. They resemble good
cakes, if properly made, although in reality they are not rich : to
render them so the proportion of sugar and of butter can be in-
creased, and currants added also. It is immaterial, we find, whether
:hey be put into the oven as soon as they are mixed, or an hour
afterwards. They are equally light. These proportions make just
a dozen of small buns.
Flour, } lb.; butter, 3 oz.; sugar, 4 oz.; candied orange-rind,
1 oz. or more; grated nutmeg; cream (or milk) 1 small teacupful;
egg-yolks 2, white 1; good carbonate of soda about the third of a tea-
spoonful: 15 to 25 minutes, moderate oven.
For Geneva Buns See Chapter 30.
0 0


562
[CHAP. XXVII.
MODERN COOKERY.
CHAPTER XXVII.
Confectionary.

Citron.
TO CLARIFY SUGAR.
It is an economy to use at once the very best sugar for confectionary
in general, for when highly refined it needs little or no clarifying,
even for the most delicate purposes; and the coarser kinds lose con-
siderable weight in the process. Break it into large lumps, and put
it into a very clean preserving pan; measure for each pound a pint
of spring water if it be intended for syrup, but less than half that
quantity for candying or making barley-sugar. Beat first apart (but
not to a strong froth), and afterwards with the water, about half the
white of an egg for six pounds of sugar, unless it should be very com-
mon, when twice as much may be used. When they are well mixed
pour them over the sugar, and let it stand until it is nearly dissolved ;
then stir the whole thoroughly, and place it over a gentle fire, but do
not disturb it after the scum begins to gather on the top; let it boil
for five minutes, then take the pan from the fire, and when it has
stood a couple of minutes clear off the scum entirely, with a skimmer;
set the pan again over the fire, and when the sugar begins to boil


CHAP. XXVII.]
CONFECTIONARY.
563
throw in a little cold water, which has been reserved for the purpose
from the quantity first measured, and repeat the skimming until the
syrup is very clear; it may then be strained through a muslin, or a
thin cloth, and put into a clean pan for further boiling.
For syrup: sugar, 6 lbs.; water, 3 quarts ; } white of 1 egg. For
candying, &c. : sugar, 6 lbs. ; water, 2pints : 5 to 10 minutes.
TO BOIL SUGAR FROM SYRUP TO CANDY, OR TO CARAMEL.
The technicalities by which confectioners distinguish the different
degrees of sugar-boiling, seem to us calculated rather to puzzle than
to assist the reader; and we shall, therefore, confine ourselves to such
plain English terms as may suffice, we hope, to explain them. After
having boiled a certain time, the length of which will in a measure
depend upon the quality of the sugar as well as on the quantity of
water added, it becomes a thin syrup, and will scarcely form a short
thread if a drop be pressed between the thumb and finger and they
are then drawn apart; from five to ten minutes more of rapid boiling
will bring it to a thick syrup, and when this degree is reached the
thread may be drawn from one hand to the other at some length
without breaking; but its appearance in dropping from the skimmer
will perhaps best denote its being at this point, as it hangs in a sort
of string as it falls. After this the sugar will soon begin to whiten,
and to form large bubbles in the pan, when, if it be intended for
barley-sugar, or caramel, some lemon-juice or other acid must be
added to it, to prevent its graining or becoming sugar again; but if
wanted to candy, it must be stirred without ceasing until it rises
almost to the top of the pan, in one large white mass, when it must
be used immediately or laded out into paper cases or on to dishes,
with the utmost expedition, as it passes in an instant almost, from
this state to one in which it forms a sort of powder, which will render
it necessary to add water, to stir it until dissolved, and to reboil it to
the proper point. For barley-sugar likewise it must be constantly
stirred, and carefully watched after the lemon-juice is added. A
small quantity should be dropped from time to time into a large
basin of cold water by those who are inexperienced in the process ;
when in falling into this it makes a bubbling noise, and if taken out
immediately after, it snaps clean between the teeth without sticking
to them, it must be poured out instantly : if wanted for sugar-spin-
ning, the pan must be plunged as quickly as possible into a vessel of
cold water
CARAMEL.
(The quickest way.)
Put into a brass skillet, or preserving-pan, some siſted sugar of the
finest quality, and stir it softly with a wooden spoon or spatula, over


564
[CHAP. XXVII.
MODERN COOKERY.
a very gentle fire until it has become liquid ; a pale or a deep tint
may then be given to it, according to the purpose for which it is re-
quired : 80 soon as it is entirely melted, and looks clear, it is ready
for use. Pastry-cooks glaze small pastry by just dipping the surface
into it; and they use it also for nougat, and other confectionary,
though it is not in general quite so brilliant as that which is made by
the preceding receipt. When the sugar first begins to melt, it should
be stirred only just in that part, or it will not be equally coloured.
BARLEY-SUGAR,
Add to three pounds of highly-refined sugar one pint and a quarter
of spring water, with sufficient white of egg to clarify it in the
manner directed in the last page but one; pour to it, when it begins
to whiten, and to be very thick, a dessertspoonful of the strained
juice of a fresh lemon; and boil it quickly until it is at the point
which we have indicated above. A few drops of essence of lemon
may be added to it, just as it is taken from the are. Pour it on to a
marble slab, or on to a shallow dish which has been slightly oiled, or
rubbed with a particle of fresh butter; and when it begins to harden
the edges form it into sticks, lozenges, balls, or any other shapes at
pleasure. While it is still liquid it may be used for various purposes,
such as Chantilly baskets, palace bonbons, croquantes, * cerises au
caramel, &c. : for these the vessel containing it must be set into a pan
of water, and it must again be liquefied with a very gentle degree of
heat should it cool too quickly. “As it soon dissolves if exposed to
damp, it should be put into very dry canisters as soon as it is cold,
and these should be kept in a dry place.
Best sugar, 3 lbs.; water, 14 pint; white of egg, 4 of 1; lemon-
juice, 1 dessertspoonful
NOUGAT.
This is a preparation of barley sugar, and almonds, filberts, or
pistachio-nuts, of which good confectioners, both foreign and English,
make a great variety of highly ornamental dishes. We must, how-
ever, confine our directions to the most common and simple mode of
serving it. Blanch twelve ounces of fine Jordan almonds in the
usual way, wipe them very dry, split them in halves, and spread
them upon tins or dishes; dry them in a very gentle oven, without
allowing them to brown; or if the flavour be liked better so, let
them be equally coloured to a pale gold tint: they should then be
often turned while in the oven. Boil to barley sugar in a small
preserving-pan six ounces of highly-refined sugar, throw in the
almonds, mix them with it well without breaking then, turn the
These are formed of small cakes, roasted chestnuts, and various other
things, just dipped singly into the barley-sugar, and then arranged in good form
And joined in a mould, from which they are turned out for table.


CHAP. XXVII.]
565
CONFECTIONARY.
nougat on to a dish slightly rubbed with oil, spread it out quickly,
mark it into squares, and cut it before it is cold; or pour it into a
mould, and with an oiled lemon spread it quickly, and very thin over
it, and turn it out when cool. It must at all times be carefully pre-
served from damp; and should be put into a dry tin box as soon as
it is cold.
Sugar, 6 oz.; almonds, 12 oz.
Another and more expeditious way of making it, is to boil the
sugar to caramel without any water, as directed at page 563: the
proportion of almonds can be diminished at pleasure, but the nougat
should always be well filled with them.
GINGER CANDY.
Break a pound of highly-refined sugar into lumps, put it into a
preserving-pan, and pour over it about the third of a pint of spring
water; let it stand until the sugar is nearly dissolved, then set it
over a perfectly clear fire, and boil it until it becomes a thin syrup.
Have ready in a large cup a teaspoonful of the very best ginger in
powder ; mix it smoothly and gradually with two or three spoonsful
of the syrup, and then stir it well into the whole. Watch the mix-
ture carefully, keep it stirred, and drop it often from a spoon to
ascertain the exact point of boiling it has reached. When it begins
to fall in flakes, throw in the freshly-grated rind of a very large
lemon, or of two small ones, and work the sugar round quickly as it
is added. The candy must now be stirred constantly until it is done:
this will be when it falls in a mass from the spoon, and does not
sink when placed in a small heap on a dish. It must be poured, or
laded out, as expeditiously as possible when ready, or it will fall
quite into powder. If this should happen, a little water must be
added to it, and it must be reboiled to the proper point. The candy,
if dropped in cakes upon sheets of very dry foolscap or other thick
writing-paper laid upon cold dishes, may be moved off without
difficulty while it is still just warm, but it must not be touched while
quite hot, or it will break.
Sugar, highly refined, 1 lb.; water, of a pint ; ginger, 1 tea.
spoonful; rind of 1 large lemon.
ORANGE-FLOWER CANDY.
Beat in three-quarters of a pint, or rather more, of water, about
the fourth part of the white of an egg, and pour it on two pounds of
the best sugar broken into lumps. When it has stood a little time,
place it ove very clear fire, and let it boil for a few minutes, then
set it on one side, until the scum has subsided ; clear it off, and boil
the sugar until it is very thick, then strew in by degrees three ounces
of the petals of the orange-blossom, weighed after they are picked
from their stems. Continue to stir the candy until it rises in cne


CHAP. XXVII.]
567
CONFECTIONARY.
PALACE-BONBONS.
Take some fine fresh candied orange-rind, or citron, clear off the
sugar which adheres to it, cut it into inch-squares, stick these singly on
the prong of a silver fork or on osier-twigs, dip them into liquid
barley-sugar, and place them on a dish rubbed with the smallest
possible quantity of very pure salad oil. When cold, put them into
tin boxes or canisters well dried, with paper, which should also be
very dry, between each layer.
EVERTON TOFFIE.
No. 1.-Put into a brass skillet or small preserving pan three
ounces of very fresh butter, and as soon as it is just melted add a
pound of brown sugar of moderate quality; keep these stirred
gently over a very clear fire for about fifteen minutes, or until a
little of the mixture, dropped into a basin of cold water, breaks clean
between the teeth without sticking to them: when it is boiled to this
point, it must be poured out immediately, or it will burn. The
grated rind of a lemon, added when the toffie is half done, improves
it much ; or a small teaspoonful of powdered ginger moistened with
a little of the other ingredients as soon as the sugar is dissolved and
then stirred to the whole, will vary it pleasantly to many tastes
The real Everton toffie is made with a much larger proportion of
butter, but it is the less wholesome on that very account. It dropped
upon dishes first rubbed with a buttered paper, the toffie when cold
can be raised from them easily.
Butter, 3 oz.; sugar, 1 lb.: 15 to 18 minutes. Or, sugar, 1 lb.;
butter, 5 oz.; almonds, 2 oz.: 20 to 30 minutes.
No. 2.—Boil together a pound of sugar and five ounces of butter
for twenty minutes; then stir in two ounces of almonds blanched,
divided, and thoroughly dried in a slow oven, or before the fire.
Let the toffie boil after they are added, till it crackles when dropped
into cold water, and snaps between the teeth without sticking.
Sugar, 1 lb.; butter, 5 oz.; almonds, 2 oz. : 20 to 30 minutes.
CHOCOLATE DROPS.
Throw into a well heated metal mortar from two to four ounces of
the best quality of cake-chocolate broken small, and pound it with a
warm pestle until it resembles a smooth paste or very thick batter ;
then add an equal weight of sugar in the finest powder, and beat
them until they are thoroughly blended. Roll the mixture into
small balls, lay them upon sheets of writing paper or upon clean
dishes, and take them off when they are nearly cold. The tops may
be covered with white nonpareil comfits, or the drops may be shaken
in a paper containing some of these, and entirely encrusted with


CHAP. IXFIN.]
569
DESSERT DISHES.
CHAPTER XXVIII.
Dessert Disyes. .

DESSERT DISHES.
A WELL-SELECTED and well-arranged dessert, however simple in its
character, may always be rendered agreeable to the eye and to the
taste : but in no department of the table can so much that is
attractive to both be more readily combined ; and at the present day
an unusual degree of luxury is often displayed in it, the details of
which, however, would be out of place here. Forced strawberries of
magnificent size, and of the best varieties, brought by culture and
management all to perfection on the same day, and served on their
plants, in the pots in which they are grown, concealed in others of
porcelain or of chased silver, are amongst the expensive novelties now
commonly introduced at costly dinners of display, and may serve as
an illustration of it *
To these may be added miniature fruit trees in full bearing placed down the
centre of the table, and intermingled with the choicest exotics.


CHAP. XXVII.]
571
DESSERT DISHES.
ORANGE SALAD.
Take off the outer rinds, and then strip away entirely the white
inside skin from some fine China oranges; slice them thin, and
remove the seeds, and thick skin of the cores, as this is done ; strew
over them plenty of white sifted sugar, and pour on them a glass or
more of brandy: when the sugar is dissolved serve the oranges. In
France ripe pears of superior quality are sometimes sliced up with
the oranges." Powdered sugar-candy used instead of sugar, is an
improvement to this salad ; and the substitution of port, sherry, or
Madeira, for the brandy is often considered so. The fruit may be
used without being pared, and a little curaçao or any other liqueur
may be added to the brandy; or this last, when unmixed, may be
burned after it is poured on the oranges.
TANGERINE ORANGES.
These beautiful little oranges, of which the rinds have a most
peculiar, and to many tastes not a very agreeable flavour, are re-
markably sweet and delicate when in their perfection; but they come
later into the market than the more common varieties of the orange,
and disappear from them sooner. They make a very refined salad,
and also an ornamental dessert dish : their cost is somewhat higher
than that of the Malta and St. Michael oranges.
There is another species of this fruit known commonly as the
blood-orange which has many admirers, but it is not we should say
greatly superior to the more abundant kinds usually served at our
tables.
PEACHES IN BRANDY.
(Rotterdam Receipt.)
Prepare and stew some fine full-flavoured peaches by the receipt
of page 459, but with two ounces more of sugar to the half pint of
water; when they are tender put them, with their syrup, into glass
or new stone jars, which they should only half fill; and when they
are quite cold pour in white, or very pale, French brandy to within
an inch and a half of the brims : a few peach or apricot kernels can
be added to them. The jars must be corked down.
BRANDIED MORELLA CHERRIES.
Let the cherries be ripe, freshly gathered, and the finest that can be
had; cut off half the length of the stalks, and drop them gently into
clean dry quart bottles with wide necks; leave in each sufficient
space for four ounces of pounded white sugar-candy (or of brown, if
better liked); fill them up entirely with the best French brandy,


CHAP. XXVII.]
DESSERT DISHES.
575
sound lemons, or Seville oranges, or upon citron, and dried before it
is reduced to powder; or add to the mixture a drop of essence of
roses, and a slight colouring of prepared cochineal. A little spinach-
juice will give a beautiful green tint, but its flavour is not very
agreeable. Filbert or pistachio nuts will answer as well as almonds,
iced in this way.
SMALL SUGAR SOUFFLÉS.
These are made with the same preparation of egg and sugar as the
almond-shamrocks, and may be flavoured and coloured in the same
way. The icing must be sufficiently firm to roll into balls scarcely
larger than a nut: a little sifted sugar should be dusted on the
fingers in making them, but it must not remain on the surface of the
soufflés. They are baked usually in very small round paper cases,
plaited with the edge of a knife, and to give them brilliancy, the tops
are slightly moistened before they are set into the oven, by passing
the finger, or a paste-brush, just dipped in cold water, lightly over
them. Look at them in about a quarter of an hour, and should they
be quite firm to the touch in every part, draw them out; but if not
let them remain longer. They may be baked on sheets of paper, but
will not preserve their form so well.
For 1 white of egg, whisked to a very firm froth, 8 to 10 oz. of
sifted sugar, or more: soufflés, baked in extremely gentle oven, 16 to
30 minutes, or longer if needful.
Obs.-We have confined our receipts here to the most simple pre-
parations suited to desserts. All the confectionary of the preceding
chapter being appropriate to them (with the exception of the toffie),
as well as various compôtes, clear jellies, and gateaux of fruit turned
from the moulds; and we have already enumerated the many other
dishes of which they may be composed.
ICES.
There is no real difficulty in making
ices for the table; but for want of the
proper means of freezing them, and of
preventing their being acted on by a too
warm atmosphere afterwards, in many
houses it cannot very easily be accom-
plished unless the weather be extremely
cold.
A vessel called a freezing-pot, an ice-
pail, a strong wooden mallet, and a copper
spatula, or an ice-spoon, are all that is
Ice Pail and Freezer,
positively required for this branch of
confectionary. Suitable moulds for iced
puddings, and imitations of fruit, must be had in addition when
needed.


576
MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXVIII.
When the composition which is to be frozen is ready, the rough
ice must be beaten quite small with the mallet, and either mingled
quickly with two or three handsful of powdered saltpetre, or used
with a much larger quantity of salt. The freezing-pot must then be
firmly placed in the centre of the ice, which must be pressed
closely into the vacant space around it until it reaches the top. The
cover of the ice-pot, or freezer, may. then be removed, and the
preparation to be iced poured into it. It should then be turned
by means of the handle at the top, quickly backwards and forwards
for eight or ten minutes; then the portion which will have frozen to
the inside must be scraped well from it with the ice-spoon and
mingled with the remainder: without this the mass would be full of
jumps instead of being perfectly smooth as it ought to be. The same
process must be continued until the whole of its contents are uni-
formly frozen.
The water-ices which are made in such perfection on the continent,
are incomparably superior to the ice-creams, and other sweet composi-
tions which are usually served in preference to them here. One or two
receipts which we append will serve as guides for many others, which
may easily be compounded with any variety of fresh summer fruit.*
Red Currant Ice.-Strip from the stalks and take two pounds
weight of fine ripe currants and half a pound of raspberries ; ruh
them through a fine sieve, and mingle thoroughly with them suffi-
cient cold syrup to render the mixture agreeably sweet, and, unless
the pure flavour of the fruit be altogether preferred,--add the
strained juice of one large or of two small lemons, and proceed at once
to freeze the mixture as above.
Currants, 2 lbs. ; raspberries, } lb.; sugar, { to 1 lb.; boiled for 6
or 8 minutes in ļ pint of water and left till quite cold. (Juice of
lemon or lemons at pleasure.)
Strawberry and raspberry water-ices are made in precisely the
same manner.
To convert any of these into English ice-creams, merely mingle
the juice and pulp of the fruit with sufficient pounded sugar to
sweeten them, or with the syrup as above, and then blend with them
gradually from a pint and a half to a quart of fresh sweet cream, and
the lemon-juice or not at choice. The Queen's Custard, the Currant,
and the Quince or Apple Custard of pages 481 and 482 may all be
converted into good ices with a little addition of cream and sugar ;
and so likewise may thc Countess Cream of page 472, and the
Bavarian Cream of page 477, by omitting the isinglass from either
of them.
The ices for desserts should be moulded in the form of fruit or other shapes
adapted to the purpose; the natural flavour and colouring are then given to the
former, but it is only experienced cooks or confectioners generally who under-
stand this branch of ice-making, and it is better left to them. All the necessary
moulds may be procured at any good ironmongers, where the manner of using
them would be explaained : we can give no more space to the subject.


CHAP. XXIX.]
577
SYRUPS, LIQUEURS, ETC.
CHAPTER
XXIX.
Syrups, Liqueurs, &c.

EI
Antique Wine Vase,
STRAWBERRY VINEGAR, OF DELICIOUS FLAVOUR.
Take the stalks from the fruit which should be of a highly flavoured
sort, quite ripe, fresh from the beds, and gathered in dry weather ;
weigh and put it into large glass jars, or wide-necked bettles, and to
each pound pour about a pint and a half of fine pale white wine
vinegar, which will answer the purpose better than the entirely co-
lourless kind sold under the name of distilled vinegar, but which is
often, we believe, merely pyroligneous acid greatly diluted.* Tie a
thick paper over them, and let the strawberries remain from three to
four days; then pour off the vinegar and empty them into a jelly-
bag, or suspend them in a cloth, that all the liquid may drop from
them without pressure ; replace them with an equal weight of fresh
fruit, pour the vinegar upon it, and three days afterwards repcat the
same process, diminishing a little the proportion of strawberries, of
which the flavour ought ultimately to overpower that of the vinegar.
For these fine acidulated fruit-syrups vinegar of the purest quality, but oniy
of medium strength, is required
PP


578
[CHAP. XXIX.
MODERN COOKERY.
In from two to four days drain off the liquid very closely, and after
having strained it through a linen or a flannel bag, weigh it, and mix
with it an equal quantity of highly-refined sugar roughly powdered ;
when this is nearly dissolved, stir the syrup over a very clear fire
until it has boiled for five minutes, and skim it thoroughly; pour it
into a delicately clean stone pitcher, or into large china jugs, throw a
thick folded cloth over and let it remain until the morrow. Put
it into pint or half-pint bottles, and cork them lightly with new velvet
corks ; for if these be pressed in tightly at first, the bottles will some-
times burst: * in four or five days they may be closely corked, and
stored in a dry and cool place. Damp descroys the colour and injures
the flavour of these fine fruit-vinegars, of which a spoonful or two
in a glass of water affords so agreeable a summer beverage, and one
which, in many cases of illness, is so acceptable to invalids. They
make also most admirable sauces for her Majesty's pudding, common
custard, batter, and various other simple and sweet light puddings.
Strawberries (stalked), 4 lbs. ; vinegar, 3 quarts : 3 to 4 days.
Vinegar drained and poured on fresh strawberries, 4 lbs. : 3 days
Drained again on to fresh fruit, 3 to 4 lbs.: 2 to 4 days. To each
pound of the vinegar, 1 lb. of highly-refined sugar: boiled 5 minutes.
Lightly corked, 4 to 5 days.
Obs.-Where there is a garden the fruit may be thrown into the
vinegar as it ripens, within an interval of forty-eight hours, instead
of being all put to infuse at once, and it must then remain in it a pro-
portionate time: one or two days in addition to that specified will
make no difference to the preparation. The enamelled stewpans are
the best possible vessels to boil it in: but it may be simmered in a
stone jar set into a pan of boiling water, when there is nothing more
appropriate at hand; though the syrup does not usually keep so well
when this last method is adopted.
Raspberries and strawberries mixed will make a vinegar of very
pleasant flavour; black currants also will afford an exceedingly useful
syrup of the same kind
VERY FINE RASPBERRY VINEGAR.
Fill glass jars or large wide-necked bottles, with very ripe but per-
fectly sound freshly gathered raspberries, freed from their stalks, and
cover them with pale white wine vinegar : they may be left to infuse
from a week to ten days without injury, or the vinegar may be poured
from them in four or five, when more convenient. After it is drained
off, turn the fruit into a sieve placed over a deep dish or bowl, as the
juice will flow slowly from it for many hours; put fresh raspberries
into the bottles, and pour the vinegar back upon them; two or three
ays later
lange the fruit again, and when it has stood the same
We have known this to occur, but it has been when bought fruit has been
used for the preparation


CHAP, XXIX.]
581
SYRUPS, LIQUEURS, ETC.
Obs.-Bishop is frequently made with a Seville orange stuck with
cloves and slowly roasted, and its flavour to many tastes is infinitely
finer than that of the lemon.
CAMBRIDGE MILK PUNCH.
Throw into two quarts of new milk the very thinly-pared rind of
a fine lemon, and half a pound of good sugar in lumps; bring it
slowly to boil, take out the lemon-rind, draw it from the fire, and
stir quickly in a couple of well-whisked eggs which have been mixed
with less than half a pint of cold milk, ard strained though a sieve;
the milk must not of course be allowed to boil after these are mixed
with it. Add gradually a pint of rum, and half a pint of brandy;
mill the punch to a froth, and serve it immediately with quite warm
glasses. At the University the lemon-rind is usually omitted, but it
is a great improvement to the flavour of the beverage. The sugar
and spirit can be otherwise apportioned to the taste; and we would
recommend the yolks of three eggs, or of four, in preference to the
two whole ones.
New milk, 2 quarts ; rind, 1 large lemon; fresh eggs, 2; cold milk,
spint; rum, 1 pint; brandy, d pint.
TO MULL WINE.
(An excellent French Receipt.)
Boil in a wineglassful and a half of water, a quarter of an ounce
of spice (cinnamon, ginger slightly bruised, and cloves), with three
ounces of fine sugar, until they form a thick syrup, which must not
on any account be allowed to burn. Pour in a pint of port wine, and
stir it gently until it is on the point of boiling only: it should then be
served immediately. The addition of a strip or two of orange-rind
cut extremely thin, gives to this beverage the flavour of bishop. In
France light claret takes the place of port wine in making it, and the
better kinds of vin ordinaire are very palatable thus prepared.
Water, 1} wineglassful; spice, 1 oz., of which fine cloves, 24, and
of remainder, rather more ginger than cinnamon; sugar 3 oz.: 15 to
20 minutes. Port wine or claret, 1 pint; orange-rind, iſ used, to be
boiled with the spice.
Obs.-Sherry, or very fine raisin or ginger wine, prepared as
above, and stirred hot to the yolks of four fresh eggs, will make good
egg-wine
A BIRTHDAY SYLLABUB.
Put into a large bowl half a pound of sugar broken small, and
pour on it the strained juice of a couple of fresh lemons; stir these
Fell together, and add to them a pint of port wine, 2 pint of sherry,


582
[CHAP. XXIX
MODERN COOKERS.
and half a pint of brandy; grate in a fine nutmeg, place the bowl
under the cow, and milk it full. In serving it put a portion of the
curd into each glass, fill it up with whey, and pour a little rich
cream on the top. The rind of a lemon may be rasped on part of
the sugar when the flavour is liked, but it is not usually added.
Juice of lemons, 2; sugar, } lb. or more ; port wine, 1 pint;
sherry 1 pint; brandy, i pint ; nutmeg, 1 ; milk from the cow, 2 quarts.
Obs.- We can testify to the excellence of this receipt.
AN ADMIRABLE COOL CUP.
Weigh six ounces of sugar in lumps, and extract the essence from
the rind of a large fresh lemon by rubbing them upon it; then put
them into a deep jug, and add the strained juice of one lemon and a
half. When the sugar is dissolved, pour in a bottle of good cider,
and three large wineglassesful of sherry; add nearly half a small
nutmeg lightly grated, and serve the cup with or without some sprigs
of fresh balm or borage in it. Brandy is sometimes added to it, but
is, we think, no improvement. If closely covered down, and placed
on ice for a short time, it will be more agreeable as a summer
beverage.
THE REGENT's, or GEORGE THE FOURTI'S, PUNCH.
Pare as thin as possible the rinds of two China oranges, of two
lemons, and of one Seville orange, and infuse them for an hour in
half a pint of thin cold syrup; then add to them the juice of the
fruit. Make a pint of strong green tea, sweeten it well with fine
sugar, and when it is quite cold, add it to the fruit and syrup, with a
glass of the best old Jamaica rum, a glass of brandy, one of arrack,
one of pine-apple syrup, and two bottles of champagne; pass the
whole through a fine lawn sieve until it is perfectly clear, then
bottle, and put it into icr until dinner is served. We are indebted for
this receipt to a person who made the punch daily for the prince's
table, at Carlton palace, for six months; it has been in our possession
some years, and may be relied on.
Rinds and juice of 2 China oranges, 2 lemons, and of i Seville
orange; syrup, i pint; strong green tea, sweetened, 1 pint; best old
Jamaica rum, arrack, French brandy (vieux cognac), and pine-
apple syrup, each 1 glassful ; champagne, 2 . bottles.
In ice for a
couple of hours.
MINT JULEP, AN AMERICAN RECEIPT.
Strip the tender leaves of mint into a tumbler, and add to them
as much wine, brandy, or any other spirit, as you wish to take. Put
some pounded ice into a second tumbler; pour this on the mint and
brandy, and continue to pour the mixture from one tumbler to the


CHAP. XXIX.]
583
SYRUPS, LIQUEURS, ETC.
other until the whole is sufficiently impregnated with the flavour of
the mint, which is extracted by the particles of the ice coming into
brisk contact when changed from one vessel to the other. Now place
the glass in a larger one, containing pounded ice: on taking it out of
which it will be covered with frost-work."
Obs.- We apprehend that this preparation is, like most other iced
American beverages, to be imbibed through a reed: the receipt,
which was contributed by an American gentleman, is somewhat
vague.
DELICIOUS MILK LEMONADE.
Dissolve six ounces of loaf sugar in a pint of boiling water, and
mix with them a quarter of a pint of lemon-juice, and the same
quantity of sherry, then add three-quarters of a pint of cold milk,
stir the whole well together, and pass it through a jelly-bag till
clear.
EXCELLENT PORTABLE LEMONADE.
Rasp, with a quarter-pound of sugar, the rind of a very fine juicy
lemon, reduce it to powder, and pour on it the strained juice of the
fruit. Press the mixture into a jar, and when wanted for use dissolve
a tablespoonful of it in a glass of water. It will keep a considerable
time. If too sweet for the taste of the drinker, a very small portion
of citric acid may be added when it is taken.
EXCELLENT BARLEY WATER,
(Poor Xury's receipt.)
Wipe very clean, by rolling it in a soft cloth, two tablespoonsful of
pearl barley; put it into a quart jug, with a lump or two of sugar, a
grain or two of salt, and a strip of lemon-peel, cut thin; fill up the
jug with boiling water and keep the mixture gently stirred for some
minutes; then cover it down, and let it stand until perfectly cold.
In twelve hours, or less, it will be fit for use; but it is better when
made over night. If these directions be followed, the barley-water
will be comparatively clear, and very soft and pleasant to drink. A
glass of calf's feet jelly added to the barley is an infinite improve-
ment; but as lemon-rind is often extremely unpalatable to invalids,
their taste should be consulted before that ingredient is added, as it
should be also for the degree of sweetness that is desired. After the
barley-water has been poured off once, the jug may be filled with
boiling water a second time, and even a third time with advantage.
RAISIN WINE, WHICH, IF LONG KEPT, REALLY RESEMBLES
FOREIGN.
First boil the water which is to be used for the wine, and let it


584
(chap. XXIX.
MODERN COOKERY.
again become perfectly cold ; then put into a sound sweet cask eight
pounds of fine Malaga raisins for each gallon that is to be used,
taking out only the quite large stalks; the fruit and water may be
put in alternately until the cask is full, the raisins being well pressed
down in it; lay the bung lightly over, stir the wine every day or
two, and keep it full by the addition of water that has, like the first,
been boiled, but which must always be quite cold when it is used.
So soon as the fermentation has entirely ceased, which may be in
from six to seven weeks, press in the bung, and leave the wine
untouched for twelve months; draw it off then into a clean cask,
and fine it, if necessary, with isinglass, tied in a muslin and suspended
in it. We have not ourselves had this receipt tried ; but we have
tasted wine made by it which had been five years kept, and which so
much resembled a rich foreign wine that we could with difficulty
believe it was English-made.
To cach gallon of water (boiled and left till cold) 8 lbs. of
fine Malaga raisins; to stand 12 months; then to be drawn off and
fined.
Obs. - The refuse raisins make admirable vinegar if fresh water be
poured to them, and the cask placed in the sun. March is the best
time for making the wine.
VERY GOOD ELDERBERRY WINE.
Strip the berries, which should be ripe and fresh, and gathered on
a dry day, clean from the stalks, and measure them into a tub or
large earthen pan. Pour boiling water on them, in the proportion
of tivo gallons to three of berries, press them down into the liquor,
cover them closely, and let them remain until the following day;
then strain the juice from the fruit through a sieve or cloth, and,
when this is done, squeeze from the berries the greater part of the
remaining juice; mix it with that which was first poured off,
measure the whole, add to it three pounds of sugar, three-quarters of
an ounce of cloves, and one ounce of ginger, for every gallon, and
boil it twenty minutes, keeping it thoroughly skimmed. Put it,
when something more than milk-warm, into a perfectly dry and
sweet cask (or if but a very small quantity of wine be made, into
large stone bottles, which answer for the purpose quite well), fill
this entirely, and pour very gently into the bung hole a large
spoonful of new yeast mixed with a very small quantity of the
wine.
VERY GOOD GINGER WINE.
Boil together, for half an hour, fourteen quarts of water, twelve
pounds of sugar, a quarter of a pound of the best ginger bruised, and
the thin rinds of six large lemons. Put the whole, when milk-warm,
into a clean dry cask, with the juice of the lemons, and half a pound


CHAP. XXIX.]
585
SYRUPS, LIQUEURS, ETC.
of sun raisins; add one large spoonful of thick yeast, and stir the
wine every day for ten days. When it has ceased to ferment, add an
ounce of isinglass, and a pint of brandy; bung the wine close, and in
two months it will be fit to bottle, but must remain longer in the
cask should it be too sweet. When it can be obtained, substitute for
the water in this receipt cider fresh from the press, which will give a
very superior wine.
Water, 14 quarts ; sugar, 12 pounds ; lemon-rinds, 6: ginger, }
Ib.; } hóur. Juice of lemons, 6; raisins, s lb.; yeast, 1 spoonful ;
isinglass, 1 oz.; brandy, 1 pint.
EXCELLENT ORANGE WINE.
Take half a chest of Seville oranges, pare off the rinds as thin as
possible, put two-thirds of them into six gallons of water, and let
them remain for twenty-four hours. Squeeze the oranges (which
ought to yield seven or eight quarts of juice) through a sieve into a
pan, and as they are done throw them into six gallons more of water;
let them be washed well in it with the hands, and then put into
another six gallons of water and left until the following day. For
each gallon of wine, put into the cask three pounds and a quarter of
loaf sugar, and the liquor strained clear from the rinds and pulp.
Wash these again and again, should more liquor be required to fill
the cask; but do not at any time add raw water. Stir the wine
daily until the sugar is perfectly dissolved, and let it ferment from
four to five weeks ; add to it two bottles of brandy, stop it down,
and in twelve months it will be fit to bottle.
Obs.—The excellence of all wine depends so much upon the
fermentation being properly conducted, that unless the mode of
regulating this be understood by the maker, there will always be
great danger of failure in the operation. There is, we believe, an
excellent work upon the subject by Mr. McCulloch, which the
reader who needs information upon it will do well to consult: our
own experience is too slight to enable us to multiply our receipts.
THE COUNSELLOR'S cup.
Rub a quarter of a pound of sugar upon the rinds of two fine
China oranges, put it into an enamelled stewpan, and pour on it a
pint of water; let these boil gently for two or three minutes, then
pour in half a pint of China orange-juice mixed with that of one lemon,
and previously strained through muslin; the moment this begins to
boil, pour it into a hot jug, and stir to it half a pint of the best
Cognac brandy. Serve it immediately. When preferred cold,
prepare the syrup with the juice of the fruit, cover it down in the
jug, set it into ice, or into a very cool place, and add the spirit only
just before the cup is wanted for table. Should the fruit be very
acid, increase the proportion of sugar. A few slight strips of the


CHAP. XXX.]
587
COFFEE, CHOCOLATE, ETC.
CHAPTER XXX.
Colfee, Chocolate, &c.
1
COFFEL.
There is no beverage which is held in more universal esteem than
good coffee, and none in this country at least, which is obtained with
greater difficulty (unless indeed it be pure wine). We hear constant
and well-founded complaints both from foreigners and English
people, of the wretched compounds so commonly served up here
under its name, especially in many lodging houses, hotels, and railway
refreshment rooms ;* yet nothing can well be easier than to pre-
pare it properly. Some elaborate and various fanciful modes of
* At some of the principal stations on lines connected with the coast, by which
an immense number of strangers pass and repass, the coffee is so bad, tha great
as the refreshment of it would be to them, particularly in night travelling,
in very cold weather, they reject it as too nauseous to be swallowed. A little
national pride ought surely to prevent this, if no higher principle interfered to do
so; for to exact the full price of a good commodity, and liabitually to supply cnly
trash for it, is a commercial disgrace.


588
[char. xxx.'
MODERN COOKERY.
making it have been suggested at different times by writers fond of
novelty, but they have in general nothing to recommend them be-
yond the more simple processes which follow, and of which we be-
lieve the result will seldom prove unsatisfactory to our readers, unless
it be to such of them as may have been accustomed to the spiced or
other peculiar Oriental preparations of the fragrant berry, or simply
to the exquisite quality of it, which wouid appear to be obtainable
only in the East; or which, at all events, is beyond the reach of the
mass of English consumers, and of their near Continental neighbours.
TO ROAST COFFEE

Persons who drink coffee habitually, and who are very particular
about its flavour and quality, should purchase the best kind in a raw
state, keep it for two or three years if they are not certain that it has
been so long harvested—as when new it is greatly inferior to that
which has been kept—and have it roasted at home.
This can be cheaply done in small quantities by means of the
inexpensive apparatus shown above; the cost of it not exceeding
seven or eight shillings, and the supply of charcoal needed for it
being very trifling indeed; or, with that inserted below, which is
larger and about double the price. The cylinder which contains the
coffee should be only half filled, and it should be turned rather
slowly over the fire, which should never be fierce, until a strong
aromatic smell is emitted ; the movement should then be quickened,
as the grain is in that case quite heated, and it will become too
highly coloured before it is roasted through, if slowly finished.
When it is of a fine, light, equal brown, which must be ascertained,
until some little experience has been acquired, by sliding back the
1


CHAP. xxx.] COFFEE, CHOCOLATE, ETC.
589
door of the cylinder, and looking at it occasionally towards the end
of the process
, spread it quickly upon a large dish, and throw a
thickly folded cloth over it. Let it remain thus until it is quite
cold; then put it immediately into canisters or bottles, and exclude
the air carefully from it.
OD
Patent Percolator, with Spirit Lamp.
A FEW GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING COFFEE.
When good coffee is desired, let it be procured if possible of a first-
rate London house * which can be depended on; and we would re-
commend that it should be of the finest quality that can be obtained;
for there is no real economy in using that which is nominally cheaper,
as a larger quantity will be required to give the same amount of
strength, and the flavour will be very inferior. It should always be
freshly roasted; but when a constant and large demand for it exists,
We could indicate several houses where unadalterated coffee may be procured,
but it is not always to be had from them so choice in quality as it might be; and
it is in general too highly roasted. By far the finest we have ever tasted we had
on two occasions, some years since, from Mr. Cobbett, of Pall Mall. The fra-
grance of it was too remarkable to be easily forgotten, and the flavour was exqui.
site; but it was apparently an accidental sample which he had met with in the
market, for though very good, that with which we were supplied afterwards never
equalled it.
Messrs. Staniforth and Co., 138, Oxford-street, are deservedly noted for the
excellence of their coffee. It is always ground at the instant of serving it to a
customer; and they have the complaisance of roasting even so small a quantity
as two pounds, to suit the taste of the purchaser: it may therefore be procured
of them as pale-dried as it can be wished.
The house of Messrs. Decastro and Peach, next door to Hatchett's Hotel,
Piccadilly, may likewise, we think, be quite depended on for supplying genuine
coffee to the public; and they have an immense demand for it.


590
[CHAP. xxx
MODERN COOKERY.
it will be easy to have it so. When it has been stored for any length
of time it will be much freshened and improved by being gently
heated through, either in the oven or in a stewpan held high above
the fire. It should be often turned while it is warming, and ground
as soon as it is cold again. Never purchase it ready ground unless
compelled to do so. When no proper mill for it is fitted up in the
house, a small portable one, which may be had at a trifling expense,
will answer tolerably well for grinding it, though it cannot be used
with quite the same facility as those which are fastened firmly to a
wall; but whatever form of mill may be used it should be arranged
so as to reduce the berries to a moderately fine powder; for if it be
too coarse the essence will be only partially extracted from it by
filtering ; and if it be extremely fine the water will not percolate
through it, and it will not be clear.
We say nothing about mingling chicory with it. Our directions
are for making pure coffee; which, when not taken in excess, is, we
believe, a wholesome as well as a most agreeable beverage. The
effect of chicory is, we believe, to impart a slight bitter flavour to the
infusion, and to deepen its colour so much as to make it appear much
stronger than it really is True connoisseurs, however, do not attach
any importance to the dark hue of coffee, the very choicest that can
be tasted being sometimes of quite a pale tint.
Always serve hot milk or cream, or hot milk and cold cream, if
preferred, with breakfast coffee. In the evening, when milk is served
at all with it, it should likewise be boiling.
Do not, in any way, make use of the residue of one day's coffee in
preparing that of the next; you would but injure the purity of its
flavour by doing so, and effect next to nothing in the matter of
economy.*
EXCELLENT BREAKFAST COFFEE.
A simple, well-made English filter, or percolater, as it is called,
will answer perfectly for making coffee; but from amongst the many
of more recent invention which are on sale, the reader who prefers
one of ornamental appearance, and of novel construction, will easily
be suited. The size of the filter must be adapted to the number
of persons for whom the coffee is to be prepared; for if a large
quantity of the powder be heaped into an insufficient space for it,
there will not be room for it to swell, and the water will not pass
through. Put three ounces of coffee into one which will contain in
the lower compartment two pints and a half; shake the powder
quite level and press it closely down; remove the presser, put on the
top strainer, and pour round and round, so as to wet the coffee
• When the coffee has been filtered in a proper manner, water poured after-
wards on the "grounds" as they are termed, will have scarcely any taste of
colour: this is not the case when it has been boiled.


CHAP. XXX.]
591
COFFEE, CHOCOLATE, ETC.
equally, about the third part of a measured pint of fast boiling
water. Let this drain quite through before more is added; then
pour in- still quite boiling-in the same manner as much more
water, and when it has passed through, add the remainder ; let it
drain entirely through, then remove the top of the filter, put the
cover on the part which contains the coffee, and serve it immediately.
It will be very strong, and perfectly clear. Fill the breakfast cups
two parts full of new boiling milk, and add as much of the infusion
as will give it the degree of strength which is agreeable to those for
whom it is prepared. When it is liked extremely strong, the pro-
portion of milk must be diminished, or less water be poured to the
coffee.
If nearly an additional half pint of water be added before the top
of the percolater is taken off, it will still be very good, provided that
the coffee used be really of first-rate quality.
To make cheaper breakfast coffee to be served in the usual English
mode, the same process should be followed, but the proportion of
water must be considerably increased : it should always, however, be
added by slow degrees.
Good breakfast coffee (for three persons). Best Mocha, in mo-
derately fine powder, ground at the instant of using it, 3 oz.; boiling
water added by degrees, 1 pint; (more at pleasure). Boiling milk
served with it, 11 pint to 1 quart. Common English coffee: coffee-
powder, 3 oz.; water, 1 quart, to be slowly filtered; hot milk, half
to whole pint. Cream in addition to either of the above, at choice.
..
TO BOIL COFFEE.
To boil coffee and refine it, put the necessary quantity of water into
a pot which it will not fill by some inches; when it boils stir in the
coffee; for unless this be at once moistened, it will remain on the top
and be liable to fly over. Give it one or two strong boils, then raise
it from the fire, and simmer it for ten minutes only; pour out a large
cupful twice, hold it high over the coffee pot and pour it in again,
then set it on the stove where it will keep hot without simmering or
moving in the least, for ten minutes longer. It will be perfectly
clear, unless mismanaged, without any other fining. Should more,
however, be deemed necessary, a very small pinch of isinglass, or a
clean egg-shell, with a little of the white adhering to it, is the best
that can be used. Never use mustard to fine coffee with. It is a
barbarous custom of which we have heard foreigners who have been
in England vehemently complain.
Coffee, 2 oz.; water, 1 pint to 1 quart, according to the strength
required. Boiled 10 minutes ; left to clear 10 minutes.
Remark.-Filtering is, we should say, a far more economical, and in
every way a superior mode of making coffee to boiling it; but as
some persons still prefer the old method, we insert the receipt for it.


CHAP. XXX.]
593
COFFEE, CHOCOLATE, ETC.
of cold water; rasp or break it small in a mortar, set it over a slow
fire, and stir or mill it gently until it has become quite smooth like
custard ; pour it immediately into deep cups, and serve it with a
glass of sugar and water, or with iced water only* to each cup; and
with plates of very delicate dried toast cut in narrow strips, or with
the cakes called “ladies' fingers.” Should the chocolate appear too
thick, a little water must be added. Milk is sometimes substituted
for it altogether.
TO MAKE COCOA.
Directions for making it are usually sold with the prepared, or
best quality of cocoa, which is merely mixed with boiling water in
the proportions indicated on the packets. That which is prepared
1rom the nibs requires several hours' boiling, and should be left
until it is quite cold, that the oil which will be found on the surface
may be cleared from it before it is again heated for table: this is
particularly needful when it is to be served to persons in delicate
health.
Sometimes with a
ice, whi
should
an appropriate character.


596
MODERN COOKERY.
(CHAP. XXXI
to the centre of the dough. Tne same objection often exists to iron-
ovens of larger size, which require care and management, to ensure
the successful use of them. A brick oven should be well heated with
faggot wood, or with a faggot, and two or three solid logs; and after
it is cleared, the door should be closely shut for quite half an hour
before the baking commences: the heat will then be well sustained
for a succession of bread, pies, cakes, and small pastry. The servant
who habitually attends at an oven will soon become acquainted with
the precise quantity of fuel which it requires, and all other pecu-
liarities which may be connected with it.
A FEW RULES TO BE OBSERVED IN MAKING BREAD.
Never use too large a proportion of yeast, as the bread will not
only become dry very speedily when this is done, but it will be far
less sweet and pleasant in flavour than that which is more slowly
fermented, and the colour will not be so good : there will also be a
great chance of its being bitter when brewer's yeast is used for it.
Remember that milk or water of scalding heat poured to any kind
of yeast will render the bread heavy. One pint of either added quite
boiling to a pint and a half of cold, will bring it to about the degree
of warmth required. In frosty weather the proportion of the heated
liquid may be increased a little.
When only porter-yeast—which is dark-cologred and bitter-can
be procured, use a much smaller proportion than usual, and allow
much longer time for it to rise. Never let it be sent to the oven
until it is evidently light. Bitter bread is unpalatable, but not
really unwholesome; but heavy bread is particularly so.
Let the leaven be kneaded up quickly with the remainder of the
flour when once it is well risen, as it should on no account be
allowed to sink again before this is done, when it has reached the
proper point; and in making the dough, be particularly careful not
to render it too lithe by adding more liquid than is requisite. It
should be quite firm, and entirely free from lumps and crumbs
throughout the mass, and on the surface also, which ought to be
perfectly smooth.
In winter, place the bread while it is rising sufficiently close to the
fire to prevent its becoming cold, but never so near as to render it
hot. A warm thick cloth should be thrown over the pan in which it
is made immediately after the leaven is mixed, and kept on it until
the bread is ready for the oven.
HOUSEHOLD BREAD.
Put half a bushel (more or less, according to the consumption of the
family) of flour into the kneading tub or trough, and hollow it well in
the middle; dilute a pint of yeast as it is brought from the brewery


CHAP. XXXI.]
599
BREAD
PROFESSOR LIEBIG'S BAVARIAN BROWN BREAD.
(Very nutritious and wholesome.)
Baron Liebig pronounces this bread to be very superior to that
which is made with fine flour solely, both in consequence of the
greater amount of nutriment which it contains, and from its slight
medicinal effect, which renders it valuable to many persons accus-
tomed to have frequent recourse to drugs, of which it supersedes the
necessity. It is made with the wheat exactly as it is ground, no part
being subtracted, nor any additional flour mingled with it. He directs
that the wheat should not be damped before it is prepared; but few
millers can be found who will depart from their ordinary practice to
oblige private customers ; and this determined adherence to established
usage intervenes constantly
between us, and all improvement in our
modes of preparing food. The bread is made in the usual way, with
water only, or with a portion of milk added to the yeast, as taste or
convenience may dictate. The loaves should be well baked at all
times; and the dough should of course be perfectly light when it is
placed in the oven. Salt should be mixed with the meal before the
yeast is added.
ENGLISH BROWN BREAD.
This is often made with a portion only of the unbolted meal re-
commended in the preceding receipt, mixed with more or less of fine
flour, according to the quality of bread required; and in many fami-
lies the coarse bran is always sifted from the meal, as an impression
exists that it is irritating to the stomach. If one gallon of meal as it
comes from the mill, be well mixed with an equal measure of flour,
and made into a dough in the manner directed for white household
bread, the loaves will still be sufficiently brown for the general taste
in this country, and they will be good and wholesome, though not,
perhaps, so entirely easy of digestion as Baron Liebig's Bavarian
bread.
UNFERMENTED BREAD.
This bread, in which carbonate of soda and muriatic acid are sub-
stituted for yeast or other leaven, has within these few years been
highly recommended, and much eaten. It may possibly suit many
persons better than that which is fermented in the usual way, but it
is not in general by any means so pleasant in flavour; and there is
much more chance of failure in preparing it in private families, as it
requires some skill to mix the ingredients with exactness and despatch;
and it is absolutely necessary that the dough should be set into the
oven the instant it is ready. In some hydropathic and other large


600
[CHAP. XXXL
MODERN COOKERY.
establishments, where it is always supplied to the table in lieu of the
more common kinds, it is, we have been informed by patients who
had partaken of it there for many months together, exceedingly and
uniformly good. More detailed information with regard to it, will
be found in our “ Cookery for Invalids," a work for which our want
of space in the present volume compels us to reserve it.
“For each pound of four (or meal) take forty grains of sesqui-
carbonate of soda, mix it intimately with the sugar and flour, then
add fifty drops of muriatic acid of the shops, diluted with half a pint
of water, or with as much as may be requisite to form the dough,
stirring it constantly into a smooth mass. Divide it into a couple of
loaves, and put them immediately into a quick oven." Bake them
thoroughly.
Author's note.- Dr. Pereira, from whose book on diet the sub-
stance of the above receipt is taken, says that delicious bread was
made by it in his presence by the cook of Mr. John Savory, of
Bond Street, equal to any bread fermented by the usual process.
We would suggest that the soda, mixed with the sugar, and a small
portion of the flour, should be rubbed through a hair sieve with a
wooden spoon into the remainder of the flour, and stirred up with it
until the whole is perfectly mingled, before the liquid is added.
Should lighter bread be desired, the soda may be increased to fifty or
even sixty grains, if the quantity of acid be proportionately aug-
mented. “As common salt is formed by the combination of these two
agents, none beside is needed in the bread.
Flour, 1 lb.; sesquicarbonate of soda, 40 grains; sugar, 1 tea-
spoonful; muriatic acid of the shops, 50 drops; water, & pint (or as
needed).
POTATO BREAD.
One pound of good mealy potatoes, steamed or boiled very dry, in
the ordinary way, or prepared by Captain Kater's receipt (see Chapter
XVII.), and rubbed quite hot, through a coarse sieve, into a couple
of pounds of flour, with which they should be well mixed, will pro-
duce excellent bread, which will remain moist much longer than
wheaten bread made as usual. The yeast should be added imme-
diately after the potatoes. An ounce or two of butter, an egg and
some new milk, will convert this bread into superior rolls.
DINNER OR BREAKFAST ROLLS.
Crumble down very small indeed, an ounce of butter into a couple
of pounds of the best flour, and mix with them a large saltspoonful
of salt. Put into a basin a dessertspoonful of solid, well-purified
yeast, and half a teaspoonful of pounded sugar; mix these with half
a pint of warm new milk ; hollow the centre of the flour, pour in the
yeast gradually, stirring to it sufficient of the surrounding flour to
make a thick batter; strew more flour on the top, cover a thick


CHAP. XXXI.]
601
BREAD.
double cloth over the pan, and let it stand in a warm kitchen to
rise. In winter it must be placed within a few feet of the fire. In
about an hour, should the leaven have broken through the flour on
the top, and have risen considerably in height, mix one lightly-
whisked egg, or the yolks of two, with nearly half a pint more of
quite warm new milk, and wet up the mass into a very smooth
dough. Cover it as before, and in from half to three-quarters of an
hour turn it on to a paste-board, and divide it into twenty-four
portions of equal size. Knead these up as lightly as possible into
small round, or olive-shaped rolls; make a slight incision round
them, and cut them once or twice across the top, placing them as
they are done on slightly floured baking sheets an inch or two apart.
Let them remain for fifteen or twenty minutes to prove; then wash
the tops with yolk of egg, mixed with a little milk, and bake them
in a rather brisk oven from ten to fifteen minutes. Turn them
upside down upon a dish to cool after they are taken from the tins.
An additional ounce of butter and another egg can be used for these
rolls when richer bread is liked; but it is so much less wholesome
than a more simple kind, that it is not to be recommended. A cup
of good cream would be an admirable substitute for butter altogether,
rendering the rolls exceedingly delicate both in appearance and in
flavour. The yeast used for them should be stirred up with plenty
of cold water the day before it is wanted ; and it will be found very
thick indeed when it is poured off, which should be gently done.
Rather less than an ounce of good fresh German yeast may be used
for them instead of brewer's yeast, with advantage
GENEVA ROLLS, OR BUNS.
Break down into very small crumbs three ounces of butter with two
pounds of flour; add a little salt, and set the sponge with a large
tablespoonful of solid yeast, mixed with a pint of new milk, and a
tablespoonful or more of strong saffron water; let it rise for a full
hour, then stir to a couple of well-beaten eggs as much hot milk as
will render them lukewarm, and wet the rolls with them to a light,
lithe dough; leave it from half to three-quarters of an hour longer,
mould it into small rolls, brush them with beaten yolk of egg, and
bake them from twenty minutes to half an hour. The addition of six
ounces of good sugar, three of butter, half a pound or more of currants,
the grated rind of a large lemon, and a couple of ounces of candied
orange-rind, will convert these into excellent buns. When the
flavour of the saffron is not liked, omit it altogether. Only so
much should be used at any time as will give a rich colour to the
bread
Flour, 2 lbs.; butter, 3 oz.; solid yeast, 1 large tablespoonful
(saffron, 1 teaspoonful ; water, less than a quarter pint); new milk,
| pint: 1 hour, or more. 2 eggs, more milk: 4 hour: baked 20 to
30 minutes.


604
[char. XXXI.
MODERN COOKERY.
wariling it off, and for preserving the bread eatable for several days
longer than it would otherwise be. If large loaves be just dipped
into cold water and then placed in a quick oven until they are again
thoroughly dried, they will resemble new bread altogether.
Pastry, cakes, and biscuits, may all be greatly improved when
stale, by heating them in a gentle oven.
TO KNOW WHEN BREAD IS SUFFICIENTLY BAKED.
When the surface is uniformly browned, and it is everywhere firm
to the touch, and the bottom crust of a loaf is hard, it is generally
certain that it is thoroughly baked. To test bread that has been cut
(or yeast-cakes), press down the crumb lightly in the centre with the
thumb; when it is elastic and rises again to its place, it is proof that
it is perfectly done; but if the indentation remains, the heat has not
sufficiently penetrated the dough to convert it into wholesome eating
ON THE PROPER FERMENTATION OP DOUGI.
As we have previously said, too large a proportion of yeast, which
is very commonly used by persons not well skilled in bread-making,
although it produces quickly a light spongy dough, has a very bad
effect on bread, which it renders much less easy of digestion than
that which is more slowly fermented, and far less sweet and pleasant
in flavour: it also prevents its remaining eatable the same length of
time, as it speedily becomes dry. It is likewise very disadvantageous
to make the dough so lithe that it spreads about in the oven; and if
it be excessively stiff, and its management not thoroughly understood,
it will sometimes be heavy, To prevent this, it should be kept quite
warm (never heated), and left a much longer time to rise. "It will
frequently then prove excellent. It will ferment rather more quickly
if, when it gives symptoms of becoming light it is made up into
loaves with the least possible kneading, and a slight incision is made
round them and across the tops, and they are then placed in a warm
air, and kept secure from cold currents passing over them.


606
[CHAP. XXXII
MODERN COOKERY.
economy, that we find it necessary to depart from our original
intention, and to confine our receipts here to a comparatively small
number. This, however, is of the less consequence as so many good
and well tested foreign receipts, of which, from our own experience,
we can guarantee the success, are to be found in the body of the
work.
REMARKS ON JEWISH COOKERY.
From being forbidden by their usages to mingle butter, or other
preparation of milk or cream with meat at any meal, the Jews have
oil much used in their cookery of fish, meat, and vegetables.
Pounded almonds and rich syrups of sugar and water agreeably
favoured, assist in compounding their sweet dishes, many of which
are excellent, and preserve much of their oriental character ; but we
are credibly informed that the restrictions of which we have spoken
are not at the present day very rigidly observed by the main body of
Jews in this country, though they are so by those who are denomi-
nated strict.
JEWISH SMOKED BEEF.
This is excellent, possessing the fine flavour of a really well cured
ham, and retaining it unimpaired for a very long time after it is cut
or cooked, if kept in a cool larder ; it is therefore a valuable and
inexpensive store for imparting savour to soups, gravies, and other
preparations; and it affords also a dish of high relish for the table
An inch or two of the lean part, quite cleared from the smoked edges
and divided into dice, will flavour well a tureen of gravy, or a pint of
soup: even that which has been boiled will greatly improve the
flavour of Liebig's extract of beef, and of any simple broth or con-
sommé. From the depth of fat upon it, which appears particularly
rich and mellow, we think it is the thick flank of the beef of which
we have made trial in various ways, and which is now in much
request in several families of our acquaintance, who find it greatly
superior to the common hung or Dutch beef, to which they were
previously accustomed.
It must be cooked in the same manner as other smoked meats,
more time being allowed for it than for fresh. Drop it into boiling
water, and when it has boiled quickly for ten minutes, take off the
scum should any appear, add cold water sufficient to reduce it to
* We were made acquainted with it first through the courtesy of a Jewish lady,
who afterwards supplied us with the address of the butcher from whom it was
procured: Mr. Pass, 34, Duke Street, Aldgate, from whom the chorissa also may be
purchased, and probably many other varieties of smoked meat which are used in
Jewish cookery. For such of our readers as may not be acquainted with the fact,
it may be well to state here that all meat supplied by Jew butchers is sure to be
of first-rate quality, as they are forbidden by the Mosaic Law to convert into food
any animal which is not perfectly free from all“ spot or blemish."


CHAP. XXXI.] FOREIGN AND JEWISH COOKERY. 607
mere scalding heat, bring it again gently to a boil, and simmer it until
the lean appears quite tender when probed with a sharp skewer;
then lift it on to a drainer and serve it hot or cold, and garnished in
either case with vegetables or otherwise at pleasure.
Beef, 6 lbs.: 3 hours or more.
CHORISSA (OR JEWISH SAUSAGE) WITH RICE.
The chorissa is a peculiar kind of smoked sausage much served at
Jewish tables* as an accompaniment to boiled poultry, &c. It
seems to be in great part composed of delicate pounded meat, inter-
mingled with suet and with a small portion of some highly-cured
preparation, and with herbs or spices which impart to it an agreeable
aromatic flavour.
Drop the chorissa into warm water, heat it gently, boil it for about
twenty minutes, and serve it surrounded with rice prepared as for
currie. It will be found very good broiled in slices after the previous
boiling : it should be cold before it is again laid to the fire. In all
cases it will, we think, be found both more easy of digestion and
more agreeable iſ half-boiled at least before it is broiled, toasted, or
warmed in the oven for table. It is a good addition to forcemeat,
and pounded savoury preparations, if used in moderation.
TO FRY SALMON AND OTHER FISH IN OIL.
(To Serve Cold.)
Turn into a small deep frying-pan, which should be kept for the
purpose, a flask of fresh olive oil, place it over a clear fire, and as
soon as it ceases to bubble lay in a pound and a half of delicate
salmon properly cleansed and well dried in a cloth, and fry it gently
until it is cooked quite through. The surface should be only lightly
browned, and when the proper colour is attained the pan must be
lifted so high from the fire as to prevent it being deepened, as we
have directed in Chapter IX. in the general instructions for frying.
Drain the fish well when it is done, and when it is perfectly cold,
dish, and garnish it with light foliage. The Jews have cold fried
fish much served at their repasts. Fillets of soles, plaice, brill, small
turbots, or other flat fish, may be fried as above, and arranged in a
symmetrical form round a portion of a larger fish, or by themselves.
We would recommend as an accompaniment one of the Mauritian
chutnies which are to be found in this chapter.
Olive oil, 1 small flask ; salmon, about 1} lb.: 1 hour or rather
more. Fillets of fish 5 to 10 minutes.
Obs.-The oil should be strained through a sieve, and set aside as
the fish is done; it will serve many times for frying if this be ob-
served.
* It may be had at the same shops as the smoked beef, and is the same price-
shilling the pound.


608
[CHAP. XXXII.
MODERN COOKERY.
JEWISH ALMOND PUDDING,
We have not thought it necessary to test this receipt ourselves, as
we have tasted the puddings made by it more than once, and have
received the exact directions for them from the Jewish lady at whose
house they were made. They are extremely delicate and excellent.
The almonds for them were procured ready ground from a Jew con-
fectioner, but when they cannot be thus obtained they must be
pounded in the usual manner. With half a pound of sweet, mingle
six or seven bitter almonds, half a pound of sifted sugar, a little fine
orange-flower water, with the yolks of ten and the whites of seven
well whisked eggs, and when the whole of the ingredients are
intimately blended, bake the pudding in a rather quick oren for
half an hour, or longer should it not be then sufficiently firm to turn
out of the dish. Sift sugar thickly over, or pour round it a rich
syrup flavoured with orange-flower water, noyau or maraschino.
Obs.-We think a fruit syrup-pine-apple or other-or a compôte
of fruit would be an excellent accompaniment to this pudding, which
may be served hot or cold. We conclude that the dish in which it is:
baked, if not well buttered, must be rubbed with oil. The above pro.
portions will make two puddings of sufficient size for a small party.
TIIE LADY'S OR INVALID'S NEW BAKED APPLE PUDDING.
(Author's Original Receipt. Appropriate to the Jewish table.)
This pudding, which contains no butter, is most excellent when
made with exactness by the directions which follow, but any variation
from them will probably be attended with entire failure, especially in
the crust, which if properly made will be solid, but very light and
crisp; whereas, if the proportion of sugar for it be diminished, the
bread will not form a compact mass, but will fall into crumbs when
it is served. First weigh six ounces of the crumb of a light stale
loaf, and grate it down small; then add to, and mix thoroughly with
it three ounces and a half of pounded sugar, and a slight pinch of
salt. Next, take from a pound to a pound and a quarter of russets,
or of any other good baking apples; pare, and then take them off the
cores in quarters without cutting the fruit asunder, as they will then,
from the form given to them, lie more compactly in the dish.
Arrange them in close layers in a deep tart-dish which holds
about a pint and a half, and strew amongst them four ounces of
sugar and the grated rind of a fine fresh lemon ; add the strained
juice of the lemon, and pour the bread-crumbs softly in a heap upon
the apples in the centre of the dish, and with the back of a spoon
level them gently into a very smooth layer of equal thickness, press-
ing them lightly down upon the fruit, which must all be perfectly
covered with them. Sift powdered sugar over, wipe the edge of the


CHAP. XXXI.) FOREIGN AND JEWISH COOKERY.
609
dish, and bake the pudding in a somewhat quick oven for rather more
than three-quarters of an hour. We have had it several times baked
quite successfully in a baker's oven, of which the heat is in general
too great for puddings of a delicate kind. Very pale brown sugar
will answer for it almost as well as pounded. For the nursery, some
crumbs of bread may be strewed between the layers of fruit, and
nutmeg or cinnamon may be used instead of lemon.
Obs.-We insert this receipt here because the pudding has been so
much liked, and found so wholesome by many persons who have
partaken of it at different times, that we think it will be acceptable to
some of our readers, but it belongs properly to another work which
we have in progress, and from which we extract it now for the
present volume. An ounce or more of ratifias crushed to powder,
may be added to the crust, or strewed over the pudding before it is
served, when they are considered an improvement.
A FEW GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR THE JEWISH TABLE,
As a substitute for milk, in the composition of soufflés, puddings,
and sweet dishes, almond-cream as it is called, will be found to answer
excellently. To prepare it, blanch and pound the almonds by the
directions of page 542, and then pour very gradually to them boiling
water in the proportion directed below; turn them into a strong
cloth or tammy, and wring it from them with powerful pressure, to
extract as much as possible of it from them again.
The fruit custards of page 482, and the meringues of fruit of page
485, are perfectly suited to the tables of Jewish families; and sweet
or savoury croustades or fried patties may be supplied to them from
the receipts in the present work, by substituting clarified marrow
(see page 388) for the butter used for them in general cookery.
Ìhe reader will easily discover in addition, numerous dishes dis-
tributed through this volume which may be served to them without
departing from their peculiar usages.
Almond-cream: (for puddings, &c.) almonds, 4 oz. ;, water, 1 pint.
For blancmanges, and rich soufflés, creams and custards: almonds, i
to whole pound; water, 1 to 11 pints.
Obs.-As every cook may not be quite aware of the articles of food
strictly prohibited by the Mosaic law, it may be well to specify them
here. Pork in every form; all varieties of shell-fish, without ex-
ception; hares, rabbits, and swans.
TOMATA AND OTHER CHATNIES.
(Mauritian Receipts.)
The composition of these favourite oriental sauces varies but
little except in the ingredient which forms the basis of each. The
RB


610
[CHAP. XXXII.
MODERN COOKERY.
same piquant or stimulating auxiliaries are intermingled with all of
them in greater or less proportion. These are, young onions,
chilies (sometimes green ginger), oil, vinegar, and salt; and occa-
sionally a little garlic or full grown onion, which in England might
be superseded by a small portion of minced eschalot. Green peaches,
mangoes, and other unripe fruits, crushed to pulp on the stone roller,
shown at the head of this chapter; ripe bananas, tomatas roasted or
raw, and also reduced to a smooth pulp; potatoes cooked and
mashed; the fruit of the egg-plant boiled and reduced to a paste ;
fish, fresh, salted, or smoked, and boiled or grilled, taken in small
fragments from the bones and skin, and torn into minute shreds, or
pounded, are all in their turn used in their preparation.* Mingle
with any one of these as much of the green onions and chilies
chopped up small, as will give it a strong flavour; add salt if needed,
and as much olive oil, of pure quality, with a third as much of
vinegar, as will bring it to the consistence of a thick sauce. Serve
it with currie, cutlets, steaks, pork, cold meat, or tish, or aught else
to which it would be an acceptable accompaniment.
INDIAN LOBSTER-CUTLETS.
mace.
A really excellent and elegant receipt for lobster-cutlets has
already been given in previous editions of the present work, and is
now to be found at page 91 of Chapter III.; but the subjoined is one
which may be more readily and expeditiously prepared, and may
consequently, be preferred by some of our readers for that reason: it
has also the recommendation of being new. In India, these cutlets
are made from the flesh of prawns, which are there of enormous size,
but lobsters, unless quite overgrown, answer for them as well, or
better. Select fish of good size and take out the tails entire ; slice
them about the third of an inch thick, dip them into beaten egg, and
then into very fine crumbs of bread seasoned rather highly with
cayenne, and moderately with salt, grated nutmeg, and pounded
Egg and crumb thenf twice, press the bread upon them with
the blade of a knife, and when all are ready, fry them quickly in
good butter to a light brown. Serve them as dry as possible,
arranged in a chain round a hot dish, and pour into the centre, or
send to table with them in a tureen, some sauce made with the flesh
of the claws heated in some rich melted butter, flavoured with a
tablespoonful of essence of anchovies, one of strong chili vinegar, a
little salt and mace, and coloured with the coral of the fish, should
they contain any. A few slırimps may be added with good effect;
or the sauce may be made of these entirely, either whole or pounded,
when they are preferred. In either case, they should only be heated
* We are indebted for these receipts to a highly intelligent medical man who
has been for twonty years a resident in the Mauritius.


616
MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXXI.
We have somewhere seen directions for making the stufato with
the upper part of the sirloin, thickly larded with large, well-
seasoned lardoons of bacon, and then stewed in equal parts of rich
gravy, and of red or of white wine.
BROILED EELS WITH SAGE. (ENTRÉE.)
(German Receipt.) Good.
Skin, open, and cleanse one fine eel (or more), cut it into finger-
lengths, rub it with a mixed seasoning of salt and white pepper, and
leave it for half an hour. Wipe it dry, wrap each length in sage
leaves, fasten them round it with coarse thread, roll the eel in good
salad oil or clarified butter, lay it on the gridiron, squeeze lemon-
juice over, and broil it gently until it is browned in every part.
Send it to table with a sauce made of two or three ounces of butter,
a tablespoonful of chili, tarragon, or common vinegar, and one of
water, with a little salt; to keep this smooth, proceed as for the
Norfolk sauce of Chapter V. Broiled fish is frequently served
without any sauce. A quite simple one may supply the place of that
which we have indicated above: eels being of so rich a nature, re-
quire no other.
A SWISS MAYONNAISE.
Beat half a pound of butter to a cream, and then add it very gra-
dually to the hard-boiled yolks of six fresh eggs which have been
cut into quarters, separated carefully from the whites, and pounded
to a perfect paste ; when these are blended into a smooth sauce add, a
few drops at a time, some of the finest salad oil that can be procured,
and work the mixture in the same manner as the mayonnaise of
Chapter VI. until no particle of it remains visible : a small quantity of
salt also must be thrown in, and sufficient good vinegar in very
small portions, to give an agreeable acidity to the preparation.
(Fresh lemon-juice might be substituted in part for this, and a little
fine cayenne used with it; but though we suggest this, we adhere to
our original Swiss receipt for this excellent dish, even when we think
it might be slightly improved in flavour.)
Carve very neatly two delicate boiled fowls, and trim the joints
into handsome form. Lay the inferior parts upon a large plate, and
spread a portion of the sauce, which should be very thick, upon
them; arrange them in a flat layer in the dish in which they are to
be served ; then sauce in the same way more of the joints, and
arrange them symmetrically over the others. Proceed thus to build a
sort of pyramid with the whole ; and decorate it with the whites of
the eggs, and the hearts of small lettuces cut in halves. Place these
last round the base alternately with whole bantams' or plovers' eggs,
boiled hard. a small slice must be cut from the large end of each of


CHAP XXXI.]
617
FOREIGN COOKERY.
these to admit of their being placed upright. A slight branch of
parsley, or other foliage, may be stuck in the tops. Roast chickens
divested entirely of the skin, can always be substituted for boiled
ones in a mayonnaise : they should all be separated into single joints
with the exception of the wings. The quite inferior parts need not
be used at all.
The same sauce rather highly flavoured with cayenne, and other
condiments, and more or less, to the taste, with essence of anchovies
or anchovy but and coloured with lobster-coral, will make an ex-
cellent fish-salad, with alternate slices of lobster,-cut obliquely to
increase their size,-and of cold turbot or large soles. These can be
raised into a high border or chain round a dish when more con-
venient, and the centre filled with young fresh salad, sauced at the
instant it is sent to table.
A French mayonnaise does not vary much from the preceding,
except in the composition of the sauce, for which see Chapter VI.
It should always be kept very thick. A little rich cold white sauce
is sometimes mixed with it.
TENDRONS DE VEAU.
The tendrons (or gristles) which lie under the flesh of the brisket
of a breast of veal are much used in foreign countries, and frequently
now in this, to supply a variety of the dishes called entrées. "When
long stewed they become perfectly tender, and yield a large amount
of gelatine ; but they are quite devoid of flavour, and require there..
fore to be cooked and served with such additions as shall render them
palatable.
With a very sharp knife detach the flesh from them without
separating it from the joint, and turn it back, so as to allow the
gristles to be divided easily from the long bones. Cut away the
chine-bone from their outer edge, and then proceed first to soak
them, that they may be very white, and to boil them gently for
several hours, * either quite simply, in good broth, or with additions
of bacon, spice, and vegetables. Foreign cooks braise them somewhat
expensively, and then serve them in many different forms; but as
they make, after all, but a rather unpretending entrée, some economy
in their preparation would generally, be desirable. They may be
divided at the joints, and cut obliquely into thin slices before they
are stewed, when they will require but four hours simmering; or
they may be left entire and braised, when they will require, while
still warm, to be pressed between two dishes with a heavy weight on
the top, to bring them into good shape before they are divided for
* We think that in the pasted jar which we have described in Chapter IX., in
the section of Bakjag, they might be well and easily cooked, but we have not
tried it.


618
[CHAP. XXXII.
MODERN COOKERY.
table. They are then sometimes dipped into egg and bread-crumbs,
and fried in thin slices of uniform size ; or stewed tender, then well
drained, and glazed, dished in a circle, and served with peas à la
Française in the centre, or with a thick purée of tomatas, or of other
vegetables. They are also often used to fill vol-au-vents, for which
purpose they must be kept very white. and mixed with a good
béchamel-sauce. We recommend their being highly curried, either
in conjunction with plenty of vegetables, or with a portion of other
meat, after they have been baked or stewed as tender as possible.
POITRINE DE VEAU GLACÉE.
(Breast of Veal Stewed and Glazed.)
When the gristles have been removed from a breast of veal, the
joint will still make an excellent roast, or serve to stew or braise.
Take out the long-bones, * beat the veal with the flat side of a
cleaver, or with a cutlet-bat, and when it is quite even, cut it square,
and sprinkle over it a moderate seasoning of fine salt, cayenne, and
mace. Make some forcemeat by either of the receipts Nos. 1, 2, 3, or
7, of Chapter VIII., but increase the ingredients to three or four
times the quantity, according to the size of the joint. Lay over the
veal, or not, as is most convenient, thin slices of half-boiled bacon, or
of ham; press the forcemeat into the form of a short compact rouleau
and lay it in the centre of one side of the breast; then roll it up and
skewer the ends closely with small skewers, and bind the joint firmly
into good form with tape or twine. When thus prepared, it may be
slowly stewed in very good veal stock until it is tender quite through,
and which should be hot when it is laid in; or embedded in the usual
ingredients for braising (see Chapter IX., page 180), and sent to table
glazed, sauced with an Espagnole, or other rich gravy, and garnished
with carrots à la Windsor (see page 335), or with sweet-bread cut-
lets. also glazed.
BREAST OF VEAL.
SIMPLY STEWED.
Omit the forcemeat from the preceding receipt, and stew the joint
tender in good veal broth, or shin of beef stock. Drain, and dish it.
Pour a little rich gravy round it, and garnish it with nicely fried
balls of the forcemeat No. 1, Chapter VIII., or with mushroom-
* This is very easily done by cutting through the skin down the centre of
each.
+ We give here the English receipt of an excellent practical cook for “Stewed
Breast of veal," as it may be acceptable to some of our readers, After it has
been boned, flattened, and trimmed, season it well, and let it lie for an hour or
two (this, we do not consider essential); then prepare some good veal force.


620
[CHAP. XXXII.
MODERN COOKERY.
pois by adding to the pigeons when the broth, in which they are
laid, first begins to boil, a pint and a half of young peas. For these,
a pint and a quarter, at the least, of liquid will be required, and
a full hour's stewing. The economist can substitute water for the
broth. When the birds can be had at little cost, one, two, or more,
according to circumstances, should be stewed down to make broth
or sauce for the others.
Obs.—Pigeons are excellent filled with the mushrooms au beurre, of
page 329, and either roasted or stewed. To broil them proceed as
directed for a partridge (French receipt), page 290.
MAI TRANK (MAY-DRINK).
(German.)
Put into a large deep jug one pint of light white wine to two of
red, and dissolve in it sufficient sugar to sweeten it agreeably. Wipe
a sound China orange, cut it in rather thick slices, without paring it,
and add it to the wine; then throw in some
small bunches or faggots of the fragrant little
plant called woodruf"; cover the jug closely to
exclude the air and leave it until the following
day. Serve it to all May-day visitors. One
orange will be sufficient for three pints of wine.
The woodruff should be washed and well drained
before it is thrown into the jug; and the
quantity of it used should not be very large, or
the flavour of the beverage will be rather in-
jured than improved by it. We have tried this
receipt on a small scale with lemon-rind instead
of oranges, and the mixture was very agreeable.
Rhenish wine should properly be used for it;
but this is expensive in England. The woodruff is more odorous
when dried gradually in the shade than when it is fresh gathered,
and imparts a pleasant fragrance to linen, as lavender does. It
grows wild in Kent, Surrey, and other parts of England, and
Hourishes in many suburban gardens in the neighbourhood of
London.
A
VIENNESE SOUFFLÉ - PUDDING, CALLED
SALZBURGER
NOCKERL.
At the moment of going to press, we have received direct fronı
Vienna the following receipt, which we cannot resist offering to the
reader for trial, as we are assured that the dish is one of the most
delicate and delicious soufflé-puddings that can be made.


622
YODERN COOKERY.
[CHAP. XXXII.
The "cooked portions” of which the soufilé is principally com-
posed are the shape, and about half the size of the inside of an
egg-spoon. If somewhat larger, they would possibly answer as
well.


INDE X.
Acton gingerbread, 552
Albert's, Prince, pudding, 411
Almond, cake, 545
candy, 566
cream, for blamange, 478
macaroons, 54
paste, 367
paste, fairy fancics of, 368
paste, tartlets of, 367
pudding, 425
pudding, Jewish, 608
shamrocks (very good and very pretty),
07+
Almonds to blanch, 542
chocolate, 568
to colour for cakes or pastry, 542
in cheesecakes, 361
to pound, 542
in soups, 21
to reduce to paste, the quickest and
easiest way, 512
Alose, or Shad, to cook, 79
American oven, 178
Anchovies, to fillet, 389
fried in batter, 84
potted, 306
curried toasts with, 359
Anchovy, butter, 138
sauce, 115
Apfel krapfen (German receipt), 373
Apple cake, 362
calf's-feet jelly, 466
Charlotte, or Charlotte de Pommes, 486
marmalade for Charlotte de Pommes, 187
custards, 482
dumplings, fashionable, 420
fritters, 384
hedgehog, or Suédoise, 480
jelly, 522
jelly, exceedingly fine, 523
juice, prepared, 156
pudding, 103
pudding, common, 409
sauce, 12
sauce, baked, 194
sauce, brown, 125
Boup, 21
snowballs, 421
tart, 363
young green, tart, 364
creamed tart, 364
Apples, baked compute of our little lady's
receipt), 572
buttered, or Pommes au beurre, 488
Apricots, compote of green, 457
Apricots dried, French receipt for, 517
to dry, a quick and easy method, 517
Apricot blamange, 479
fritters, 384
marmalade, 516
Arabian, or Turkish Piláw, Mr. Lane's re.
ceipt for, 614
Artichokes, Jerusalem, à la Reine, 338
to boil, 326
en salade, 326
to remove the chokes from, 326
Jerusalem, to boil, 337
Jerusalem, to fry, 338
Jerusalem, mashed, 338
soup of, 19
Asparagus, to boil, 319
to serve cold (observation), 319
points, dressed like peas (entremets), 319
Aspic, or clear savoury jelly, 104
Arocé Doce, or sweet rice à la Portugaise,
489
Arrow-root, to thicken sauces with, 106
to thicken soup with, 2, 4
Potato, 154
sauce (clear), 403
Bacon, to boil, 259
broiled or fried, 259
Cobbett's receipt for, 252
dressed rashers of, 259
French, for larding, 254
lardoons of, 181
to pickle checks of, 254
genuine Yorkslure receipt for curing,
253
super-excellent, 256
Bain-marie, use of, 105
Baked apple-pudding, or custard, 437
apple-pudding, the lady's or invalid's,
new, 608
apple-pudding, a common, 409
compote of apples, 572
minced beef, 207
round of spiced beef, 199
hcet-root, 339
bread-puddings, 429, 490
calf's feet and head, 178
custard, 483
haddocks, 73
ham, 258
joints, with potatoes, 179
mackerel, 70
marrow bones, 203


624
INDEX.
for, 189
Baked mullet, 76
ox-cheek, 208
pike, 81
potatoes, 312
raisin puddings, 441, 449
salmon, 60, 179
smelts, 78
soles (or soles au plat), 66
soup. 178
sucking-pig, 250
whitings, à la Francaise, 68
Baking, directions for, or oven cookery, 178
Banbury cakes, 549
Bantam's
eggs, to boil or poach, 446, 449
Barberries, to pickle,
in bunches, to preserve, 526
stewed, for dessert, 459
Barberry jam, a good receipt for, 526
jam, another receipt for, 527
superior jelly and marmalade, 527
and rice pudding,
tart, 36+
Barley-sugar, 564
Barley-water, excellent (poor Xury's re-
ceipt), 583
Basket, wire, for frying, 177
Batter, French, for frying meat and vegeta.
bles, &c., 130
cod's sounds fried in, 63
salsify, fried in, 341
spring fruit, fried in, 383
to mix for puddings, 397
Béchamel, 108
Beans, French, to bo:1, 321
à la Francaise, 321
another excellent receipt for, 323
Windsor, to boil, 322
Beef, à la mode, 192
breslaw of, 206
cake (very good), 190
to choose, 184
minced collops of, au naturel, 201
savoury minced collops of, 201
Scotch miuced collops of, 202
richer minced collops of, 20%
divisions of, 18+
Dutch or hung, 197
extract of, Baron Liebig's, 6
fillet of, braised, 180
fillet of, roast, 187
hashed, French receipt for, 206
cold, common hash of, 205
cold, excellent hash of, 205
collared, 198
collared, another receipt for, 198
gravy, Baron Liebig's, 96
Norman hash of, 206
heart, to roast, 204
Jewish (smoked), 606
kidney, to dress, 204
kidney (a plainer wny), 205
marrow, clarified for keeping, 208
marrow, to prepare for frying crou-
stades, &c., 398
marrow-bones, to boil, 207
marrow-bones, baked, 208
minced, baked, 207
Beef palates (Entrée), 194
palates (Neapolitan mode), 195
Hamburg pickle for, 197
another pickle for, 197
ribs of, to roast, 185
roll, or canellon de bæuf, 201
miniature round of, 200
round of, to salt and boil, 196
round of, sptred, 199
round of, roast, 186
rump of, to roast, 186
rump of, to stew, 194
to salt and pickle, various wars, 196
common receipt for saltirg, 198
saunders of, 207
shin of, to stew, 192
shin of, for stock, 97
sirloin of, to roast, 185
sirloin of, stewed, 193
spiced (good and wholesome), 199
smoked, 606
steak, roast, 187
steak, stewed, 189
steak, stewed in its own gravy, 189
steaks, best and most tender, 185
steaks, broiled, 187
steaks, broiled, sauces appropriate to,
188
steaks, fried, 189
steaks, à la Francaise, 188
steaks, à la Francaise, another receipt
steak pie, 354
steak puddings, 399,401
good English stew of, 191
German stew, 190
Stufato, 615
Welsh stew of, 191
tongue (Bordyke's receipt for stewing),
203
tongue potted, 305
tongues (various modes of curing), 203
tongues, to dress, 203
tongues, Suffolk receipt for, 208
Beet-root, to bake, 339
to boil, 339
to stew, 310
Relgrave mould, 469
Bengal currie powders, 615
Bermuda witches, 491
Birthday syllabub, 581
Biscuits. Aunt Charlotte's, 561
Captain's, good, 560
Colonel's, 561
cheap ginger, 560
Threadneedle-street, 560
wine, 560
Bishop, Oxford receipt for, 580
Black-cap pudding. 407
Black-caps par erecllence, 460
Black cock, and gray hen, to roast, 291
Blamange, or blanc manger, apricot, 479
good common (author's receipt), 476
call's feet, to make, 454
currant, 479
quince (delicious), 478
quince, with almond cream, 478


INDEX.
627
soups, 19
Cherries, compolo of Kentish, 458
compote of morella, 458
morella, to dry, 50+
dried with sugar, 502
dried without, 503
dried, superior receipt, 503
to pickle, 532
brandy, 579
cherry, cheese, 504
cherry, paste, 504
Chestnuts, bo led, 574
roasted, 574
stewed, 342
Chestnut forcemeat, No. 15, 162
sauce, brown, 129
sauce, white, 129
Chetney, various ways of making, 144
Chicken, broiled, 271
cutlets, 275, 276
fried, à la Malabar, 276
patties (good), 359
potato party, 350
Chicken pic (common), 353
modern pie, 353
Chickens, boiled, 273
fricasseed, 275
in soup, 29
China chilo of mutton, 241
Chocolate, almonds, 568
drops, 567
to make, 592
Spanish receipt for making, 592
Chops, lamb or mutton, broiled, 241
mutton, stewed in their own gravy
(good), 240
pork, 251
Chorissa, or Jewish sausage, with rice, 607
Christopher North's own sauce for many
meats, 119
Cocoa, to make, 593
Cocua-nut candy, 566
cheesecakes, 371
in curries, 296
Doce, 490
gingerbread, 553
macaroous, 545
puddings, 124
Cod fish, to boil, 61
slices of, fried, 61
stewed, 62
stewed in brown sauce, 62
Cod's sounds, to boil, 63
to fry in batter, 63
Coffee, to boil, 591
breakfast, French, 590
burnt, or coffee à la Militaire, vulgarly
called Glosia, 592
to filter, 590
directions for making, 589
Etro clear, to serve after dinner,
called café noir, 592
remarks on, 587
to roast, 588
roaster, 588
Cold, calf's head, to re-dress, 214
Cold, fowls, ditto, 276, 277
leg of mutton, ditto, 207
maitre d'hotel, sauce, 133
meat, excellent sauces to serve with,
133, 134, 136
salmon, to dress, 59
turbot, ditto, 59
Collops minced, au naturel, 201
savoury minced, 201
sauté-pan for frying, 176
Scotch, 226
Scotch minced, 202
Compote of apples, baked (our little Lady's
receipt), 572
of
green apricots, 457
of bullaces, 458
of cherries, 458
of Kentish cherries, 458
of Morella cherries, 458
of green currants, 457
of red currants, 457
of damsons, 458
of figs, 492
of
green gocseberries, 457
of magnum bonum, or other large
plums, 458
of peaches, 459
of peaches, another receipt, 459
Compote de pigeons, 619
Compole de pigeons aux petits pois, 619
of Siberian crabs, 458
of spring fruit (rhubarb), 457
Confectionary, 562
Conjurer, a, its uses, 175
Consommé, 10
Constantia jelly, 467
Cookery (English), common causes of its
failure, 167
Cool cup, a, 582
Corn, Indian green, to boil, 329
Counsellor's cup. 585
Crab, cold, dressed, 88
hot, 89
Creamed tartlets, 375
spring fruit, or rhubarb trifle, 486
Cream, Chantilly basket filled with, 474
Cream cake, delicious, 55+
crust, 347
Devonshire, or clotted, 451
jelly, filled with, 469
lemon, nade without cream, 475
Nesselrode, 471
remarks on, 450
Swiss, 473
in soups, 19, 22, 29, 30
Crcams, lemon (very good), 475
fruit, 475
Italian, 475
Créme a la Comtesse, or the Countess's crear,
272
Créme, Parisienne, 479
patissiere, 373
Crisped potatoes, or potato-ribbons, to servo
with cheese, 313
Croquettes of rice (entremets), 385
of rice, billed with preserve,
of rice, savoury, 386
soup, 19


632
INDEX.
Fruit, to weigh the juice of, 498
directions for preserving, 496
remarks on preserved, 493
stewed, 456-459
tart, with royal icing. 363
Frying, general directions for, 176
Galantine of chicken, 266
Galette, 557
Game, to choose, 281
directions for keeping, 281
gravy of, 259
hashies of, 292, 294
Gar-fish. to broil or bahe, 77
Garlic, mild ragout of, 126
vinegar, 152
Gateau of mixed fruits, 461
de pommes, 460
de semoule, or French semoulina pud.
ding, 430
de riz, or French rice pudding, 433
Geneva buns, or rolls, 601
Genevese sauce, 117
Genoises à la Reine, or her Majesty's pastry,
366
German puffs, 484
pudding, 412
pudding sauce (delicious), 413
yeast, observations on, 698
Gertrude d la Créme, 487
Gherkins, to pickle, 532
to pickle, French receipt, 633
Ginger biscuits, cheap, 560
bread, 553
bread, Acton, 552
bread, cocoa-nut, 553
bread, thick, light, 651
candy, 565
oven cakes, 552
wine (excellent), 584
Glaze, to make, 104
Glaze, to, pastry, 345
Glazing, directions for, 182
for fine pastry and cakes, 345
Goose, to deprive of its strong odour, Obs:
271
to roast, 271
to roast a green, 271
Gooseberries, to bottle for tarts, 499
dried, with sugar, 499
dried, without sugar, 501
Gooseberry jam, red, 500
jam, very fine, 500
jelly, 500, 501
paste, 501
pudding, 435, 408, 420
sauce for mackerel, 120
Grape jelly, 620
Gravies, to heighten the colour and flavour
of, 96
introductory remarks on, 84
shin of beef stock for, 97
Gravy, good beef or real (English receipt),
99
Barou Liebig's beef (most excellent), 96
rick brown, 99
Gravy, cheap, for a fowl, 101
another cheap, 102
curried, 302
Espagnole, highly-flavoured, 100
Espagnole with wine, 100
for a goose, 102
in haste, 101
jus des rognons, or kidner gravy, 101
orange, for wild fowl, 102
veal, rich, deep-coloured, 98
veal, rich, pale, or consommé, 97
for venison, plain, 99
for haunch of venison, 283
rich, for venison, 100
sweet sauce, or gravy, for renison, 100
soup, or stock, clear, pale, 10
soup, cheap, clear, 11
soup, another receipt for, 10
Gray hen, to roast, 291
Green goose, to roast, 271
mint sauce, 132
mint vinegar, 152
orange plum, preserve of, 514
peas, à la Francaise, 320
peas, with cream, 321
pea-soup, cheap, 40
peas-soup, excellent, 39
peas. soup, without meat, 39
Greengage jam, or marmalade, 515
Groseillée, 513
Ground rice puddings. 435
in pudding-pies, 371
Grouse, to roast, 292
salmi of, 292
Guava, English, 520
strawberry jelly, which resembles, 505
Guinea-fowl, to roast, 273
Gurnards, to dress in various ways, 74
Haddocks, baked, 73
to boil, 73
Finnan, to dress, 74
to fry, 73
Ham, to bake a, 258
to boil a, 256
to boil a (French receipt), 258
potted, excellent, 304
Hams, Bordyke receipt for, 256
to garnish and ornament in various
ways, 257
to pickle, 254
superior to Westphalia (Monsieur Ude's
receipt), 255
genuine Yorkshire receipt for, 253
Hamburgh pickle, for hams, beef, and
tongues, 197
another pickle, for hams, beef, and
tongues, 197
Hare, to choose, 282
forcement for, No. 8, 160
sweet gravy for, 284
in pie, 352
potted, 307
to roast, 284
to roast, superior receipt, 285
soup, superlative, 32
soup, a less expensive, 82


INDEX.
633
Aare, stewed, 286
Haricots blancs, 338
Harrico, Norman 224
Hashed bouilli, 206
calf's head, 213
fowl, 276
venison, 284
Hash, a, of cold beef or mutton (excellent),
205
common, of cold beef or mutton, 205
cheap, of call's head, 213
Norman, 206
Haunch of mutton, to roast. 234
of venison, to roast, 282
Herrings, fresh (Farleigh receipt), 74
red à la Dauphin, 84
red, common English mode, 84
Iced pudding, Nesselrode, 491
Ice, advantage of, for jellies, fine paste, &c.,
575
Ices, observations on, 575
currant, 576
raspberry, 576
strawberry, 576
Icing, for tarts, &c., 345
white or coloured, for fine pastry, or
cakes, 513
Imperatrice plums, to dry, 521
very fine marmalade of, 521
Imperial gooseberry fool, 480
Imperials, 545
Indian Burduan, 612
common currie, 299
curried fish, 615
lobster cutlets, 611
pilaw, 614
corn, to boil, 329
Ingoldsby Christmas pudding, 416
Ingredients, which may all be used in mak.
Invalid's, the, new baked apple pudding, 608
Irish stew, 242
Isinglass to clarify, 454
jelly, Constantin, 467
jelly, orange, 465
jelly, strawberry, and other fruit, 505-
508
Italian creams, 475
jelly, 470
meringues, 551
modes of dressing maccaroni, 891-399
pork cheese, 260
Jam, gooseberry, very fine, 500
green gooseberry, 199
greengage, 515
of mixed fruits, 483
of Mogul plums, 515
peach (or nectarine), 513
raspberry, 506
raspberry, very good, rel or white, 507
raspberry, very rich, 506
rhubarb, 498
strawberry, 504
Jaumange, or jaune manger, called also
Dutch flummcry, 477
Jellies, call's feet stock for, 453
to clarify call's feet stock for, 454
to clarify isinglass for, 451
fancy, 469
meat, for pies and sauces, 103
cheaper meat, 103
Jelly apple, 522
apple, exceedingly fine, 523
apple, call's feet, 464
barberry, 527
calf's feet, 461, 462
calf's feet, modern varieties of, 463
call's feet, strawberry, 468
lemon, calf's feet, 167
orange, call's feet, 464
orange isinglass, 465
orange, very fine, 465
orange, Seville, very fine, 530
Constantia, 467
black currant, common, 511
black currant, fine, 511
currant, red, 508
currant, red, French, 509
red curraut, superlative (Norman ro.
ceipt), 509
currant, white, very fine, 510
damson, 619
green gooseberry, 198
ripe gooseberry, 500, 501
red grape, 520
guava, English, 520
to extract the juice of plums for, 497
mussel plum, 516
quince, 525
raspberry, 507, 508
rhubarb isinglass, 468
Siberian crab, 526
tartlets, or custards, 375
strawberry, very fine, 505
John Dories, small, baked (author's receipt),
58
John Dory, to boil a, 58
Jewish almond pudding, 608
table, general directions for the, 600
cookery, remarks on, 606
sausage, or Chorissa, 607
smoked beef, 606
Julep, mint (American), 582
Jumbles, 558
ing soups,
Jack-bottle, 170
spring, 170
Jam, apricot, or marmalade, 516
barberry, 526
cherry, 502
currant, best black. 512
currant, black, 511
currant, red, superlative, 509
currant, white, a beautiful preservo, 510
damsou, 519
gooseberry, red, 500
Kale, sea, to boil, 316
stewed in gravy (entremeti). 316
Kater's, Captain, receipt for boiling pota.
toes, 312


634
INDEX.
pig, 254
Lobster, potted, 9
salad, 142
sausages, 91
Luncheon cake, 555
Macaroons, almond, 544
cocoa-nut (very fine), { 45
orange-flower, 544
Macaroncini, to boil and to choose, 390
Maccaroni, Genoa, to boil, 391
Neapolitan, to boil, 391
ribbon (or lazanges), to boil, 391
to choose, and other Italian pastes, 390
to dress à la Reine, 393
to dress in various ways, 392
with gravy, 392
ribbon, 391
soup, 13
Kedgeree (an Indian breakfast dish), 613
Kentish, receipt for cutting up and curing a
suet pudding, 407
Kidneys, mutton, a la Francaise, 243
mutton, to broil, 214
mutton, Oxford receipt for, 244
Kidney, beef, to dress, 204, 205
Kohl-cannon, or Kale-cannon (Irish ro-
ceipt), 315
Lait, du, d Madame, 451
Lady's, the, sauce for fish, 117
Lamb, cutlets, in their own grary, 246
cutlets, with Soubise sauce, 246
cutlets of cold, 246
leg of, with white sauce, 245
roast loin of, 245
loin of, stewed in butter, 246
to roast a quarter of, 214
roast saddle of, 245
sauce for, 132
Landrail, to roast, 291
Lard, to melt, 248
to preserve unmelted, for many months,
218
to, a pheasant, 287
Larding, general directions for, 181
Larding-needles, 181
Lardoons, 181
Leeks, to boil, 318
Lemonade, delicious, milk, 583
excellent, portable, 583
Lemon, calf's feet jelly, 467
creams, 475
dumplings, 421
fritters, 384
jelly, calf's feet, 467
pickle, or catsup, 150
pudding, an excellent, 426
sandwiches, 374
sponge, or moulded cream, 480
suet pudding, 427
tartlets, 372
Lemons in mincemeat, 368, 369
to pickle, 534, 538
Lettuces, in mayonnaise of fowls, 278
stewed, 319
in salads, 140, 141
Liebig's, Baron, directions for boiling, 53
for roasting, 171
beef gravy, 36
extract of beef, 6
Limes, to pickle, 538
Liver, calf's, to roast, 229
stoved, or stewed, 228
Lobsters, to boil, 88
boudineltes of (author's receipt), 82
Lobster, or crab, buttered, 89
butter, 138
cutlets (a superior entrée), 91
cutlets, Indian, 611
cold dressed, 89
fricasseed, or au béchamel, 89
hot, 89
patties, common, 359
patties, superlative, 369
sweet, 490
Mackerel, to bake, 69
baked (Cinderella's receipt, good), 70
to boil, 69
broiled whole, 71
fillets of, boiled, 71
fillets of, broiled or fried, 71
fillets of, stewed in wine (excellent), 73
fried (French receipt), 70
stewed with wine, 72
Madeira cake, 518
Madeleine puddings, to serve cold, 432
Magnum bonum plums, to dry or preserve,
515
Mai-Trank (German), 620
Maitre d'hotel sauce, cold, 133
sauce, French, 116
sauce, maigre, 117
sauce, sharp (English receipt for), 116
Majesty's, her, pastry, 366
pudding, 410
Mandrang, or mandram, West Indian re-
ceipt, 323
another receipt for, 323
Mangoes, lemon, 538
peach, 534
Marmalade, apple, for Charlotte, 487
apricot, 516
barberry, 527
Imperatrice plum, 521
orange (Portuguese receipt), 527
clear (author's receipt), 529
orange, genuine Scotch receipt for, 528
peach, 518
pine-apple, superior (a new receipt),
513
quince, 524
quince and apple, 525
Marrow bones, baked, 208
to boil, 207
Marrow, clarified, to keep, 208
vegetable, to dress in various ways, 327
Mashed, artichokes, Jerusalem, 338
carrots, 336
parsnips (see turnips), 333
potatoes, 313
potatoes, crust of, for pasty, 350
turnips (an excellent receipt for), 333


INDEX.
635
Mayonnaise, a delicious sauce to serve with
cold meat, &c., 135, 136
French, 617
Swiss, 617
Mayor's, the Lord, soup, 17
soup (author's receipt for), 18
Meat, jellies for, pies, 104
pies, crust for, 347, 348
puddings, 399-401
rolls, excellent, 360
Mélange of fruit for dessert, 570
or mixed preserve, 513
Melon, to serve with meat, 325
sweet pickle of, to serve with roast meat
(good), 534
Melted butter, 108, 109
Meringue of pears, or other fruit, 486
of rhubarb, or gooseberries, 486
Meringues, 550
Italian, 551
Milk, cocoa-nut flavoured, for sweet dishes,
456
lemonade, delicious, 583
remarks on, 430
Mild eschalot sauce, 127
mustard, 130
ragout of garlic, or l'ail à la Bordelaise,
126
Minced collops, 201
fowl, 276
veal, 230
veal, with oygters, 231
Mincemeat (author's receipt), 368
superlative, 369
fritters, 383
Mince pies (entremets), 369
royal, 370
Miniature round of beef, 199
Mint julep, 582
Mock, brawn, 260
turtle
soup,
23
turtle soup, good old-fashioned, 26
Modern blamange-mould, 476
cake-mould, 540
chicken pie, 353
jelly-mould, 470
potato pasty, 350
varieties of calf's feet jelly, 463
Monitor's tart, or tourte à la Judd, 370
Moor game, to roast and hash, 291, 292
Mould for French pies, or casseroles of rice,
344
Vull, to, wine, an excellent receipt (French)
581
Mullagatawny soup,
35
vegetable, 37
Mullet, grey, to boil, 76
red, to bake, broil, or roast, 76
Mushroom catsup, 146
catsup, another receipt for, 148
catsup, double, 148
forcemeat, 159
powder, 154
sauce, brown, 123
sauce, another, 123
sauce, white, 122
Mushrooms, au beurre, 329
dried, 153
partridges with, 289
in pigeon pie, 354
pickled, in brine for winter use, 536
to pickle, 535
potted (delicious), 330
toast, or cronte aus champignons, 380
Mussel-plums, preserves of, 516
Mustard, to make, 130
mild, 130
Tartar, 155
another Tartar, 155
horseradish vinegar for ditto, 153
Mutton, broth, 44
to choose, 233
cutlets broiled, and Soubise sauce, 243
cutlets, to broil, 241
cutlets of, cold, 243
cutlets, stewed in their own gravy,
240
fillet of, roast or stewed, 238
haunch of, to roast, 234
kidneys d la Francaise (entrée), 243
kidneys, broiled, 244
kidneys, Oxford receipt for, 244
leg of, to boil (an excellent receipt), 237
leg of, boned and forced, 236
leg of, braiser 236
leg of, roast, 235
loin of, roast, 238
loin of, stewed like venison, 239
neck of, roast, 239
pie, common, 355
pie, good, 355
pudding, 401
saddle of, to roast, 235
shoulder of, broiled, 210
shoulder of, to roast, 239
shoulder of, forced, 210
a good family stew of, 242
stock for soup, 16
Nasturtiums, to pickle, 539
Nesselrode cream, 471
pudding, 491
Norfolk biffins, dried, 572
sauce, 99
Norman harricot, 224
Normandy pippins, 572
Nougat, 564
Nouilles, to make, 5
Eufs au plat, 450
pochés au jus, 419
Old-iashioned boiled custard, 481
Oil, to fry salmon and other fish in (Jowish)
607
Olive sauce, 128
Omlette aux fines herbes, 380
soufflée, 381
Omlets, observations on, 380
Omlet, common, 380
King of Oude's, 612
Onion sauce, brown, 125
sauce, brown, another receipt for, 126
sauce, white, 125
sauce, 132


636
INDEX.
Onion and eage stuffing for ducks and geese,
No. 9, 160
rich white sauce of, or Soubise, 126
Unions, to pickle, 537
stewed, 342
Orange, baskets for jelly, 466
calf's fcet jelly, 464
conserve for cheesecakes, or pudding, 501
fritters, 384
gravy,
102
minglass jelly, 465
marmalade, 527, 529
plums, preserve of, 514
salad, 571
snow balls, 420
wine, 555
Orange-flower, candy, 665, 666
Seville, paste, 563
filled with jelly in stripes, 166
Tangerine, 571
Oven, American, 178
management of, 595
objection to iron ones, 595
Oxford receipt for Bishop, 680
for mutton kidneys, 244
punch, 580
Ox-cheek, stuffed and baked, 208
Ox-tail, broiled (entrée), 195
stewed, 195
soup, 42
Ox tongue, to pickle, 202
poited, 305
Oyster forcemeat, No. 5, 159; No. 6, 159
patties, 359
sauce, common, 114
sauce, good, 114
sausages, 87
soup, white, or à la Reine, 30
Oysters, curried, 302
to feed, 85
to fry, 80
scalloped, a la Reine, 88
to scallop, 86
to stew, 86
to stew, another receipt, 87
Pain de
porc frais, or sansage-meat cake, 261
Pain de rean, or veal cake, 222
Pain de veau (Bordy ke receipt), 222
Palace-bonbons, 567
Palates, beef, to dress, 194, 195
Panada, 165
Pancakes, 382
to crisp, 130
fried, 130
Parsley-green for colouring sauces, 129
Parsneps, to boil, 337
fried, 337
Partridge, broiled (breakfast dish), 290
broiled (French receipt), 290
French, or red-legged, to dress, 290
potted, 305
pudding, 401
soup, 35
Partridges, boiled, 289
with mushrooms, 289
to roast, 288
Partridges, salmi, or rich hash of, 292
salmi of (French), 292
Paste, almond, 367
brioche, 349
cherry (French), 504
currant, 510
gooseberry, 501
very good light, 346
English puff, 316
fine puff, or feuilletage, 345
quince, 525
Pastry, to colour almonds or sugar-grains
for, 542
to glaize or ice, 845
icing for, 345
sugar-icing for, 643
her Majesty's, 366
general remarks on, 344
sandwiches, 374
Pasty, potato, 350
varieties of, 851
mould for, 351
Pdte Brisée, or French crust for hot or cold
pies, 347
Patties a la Pontife (entrées), 360
good chicken, 359
common lobster, 559
superlative lobster, author's receipt, 359
oyster (entrée), 369
sweet boiled, 422
tartlets, or small cols-au-vents, to make,
361
Peach, frit ters, 384
jam, or marmalade, 518
mangoes, 534
Peaches, compote of, 459
to dry, an easy and excellent receipt, 518
to pickle, 534
preserved in brandy (Rotterdam roceipt),
571
stewed, 459
Suédoise of, 488
tol-au-vent of, 358
Pears, baked, 573
stewed, 573
meringue of, 486
Pealed fruit, 570
Peas, green, to boil, 320
green, with cream, 321
green, sonp of, 39, 40
green, stewed, à la Francaise, 380
pudding, 401
soup, common, 41
soup without meat, 43
soup, rich, 41
Perch, to boil, 82
to fry, 83
Pheasant, boudin of, 288
cutlets, 275
to roast, 287
salmi of, 292
soup, 33, 34
Pickle, for beef, tongue, and bams, 107
Hamburgh, for pork, &c., 197
to, beet-root, 537
cherries, 532
eschalots, 532


INDEX.
639
Punch, Regent's, or George IV.'s (a genuine
receipt), 582
sauce for sweet puddings, 402
Purée, fine, of onions, or Soubise sauce, 126
of tomatas, 328
of turnips, 127
of vegetable marrow, 127
Quenelles, or French forcemeat, 163
Queen cakes, 556
Queen's custard, 482
Queen Mab's pudding, 470
Quince blamange, 478
blamange, witli almond cream, 478
custards, 482
jelly, 524
juice, prepared, 456
marmalade, 524
and apple marmalade, 525
paste, 525
Rabbits, to boil, 286
Rabbit, to fry, 287
to roast, 286
soup, è la Reine, 31
soup, brown, 31
Radishes, turnip, to hoil, 318
Ragout, mild, of garlic, 126
Raisin puddings, 441, 442
wine, which resembles foreign, 588
Ramakins à l'Ude, 375
Raspberries, to preserve for creams or ices,
without boiling, 506
Raspberry jam, 506
jam, red or white, 506
jelly, for flavouring creams, 507
jelly, another good, 508
vinegar, very fine, 578
Red cabbage, to stew, 340
Regent's, or George IV.'s punch (genuine),
582
Remoulade, 137
Rhubarb, or spring fruit, compote of, 457
Rice, to boil for curries, or mullagatawny
boiled, to serve with stewed fruit, &c.,
422
cake, 546
casserole of, savoury, 351
casserole of, swect, 438
croquettes of, 385, 386
savoury croquettes of, 386
puddings, 419, 420, 433-435
soup, 14
soup, white, 15
sweet, à la Portugaise, or arocē docē,
489
Rice flour, to make, 154
to thicken soups with, 4
Risotto à la Milanaise, 615
Rissoles, 387
very savoury, English (entrée), 387
Roasting, general directions for, 169
slow method of, 171
Koast beel (see Chapter X.)
chestuuts, 574
Roast game (see Chapter XV.)
lamb (see Chapter XII )
mutton (see Chapter XII.)
potatoes, 312
pork (see Chapter XIII.)
poultry (see Chapter XIV.)
veal (see Chapter XI.)
Rolled shoulder of mutton, 240
ribs of beef, 198
sirloin of beef, 198
Roll, beef, or canellon de beuf, 201
Rolls, breakfast or dinner, 600
Geneva, 601
excellent meat, 360
Roux, or French thickening brown (for
sauces), 106
white, 106
Rusks, sweet, 554
Rusks, 602
Sago soup, 14
Salad, to dress (English), 140
forced eggs for garnishing, 137
French, 140
of mixed summer fruits, 570
excellent herring (Swedish receipt),
143
lobster, 142
very elegant lobster, 584
orange, 571
peach, 570
the Poet's receipt for, 135
Suffolk, 141
walnut, or des cerneaur, 141
Yorkshire ploughman's, 14)
dressings and sauces, 140
sorrel, 142
of young vegetables, 141
Salamander to brown with, 183
Salmi of moor fowl, pheasants or partridges,
292
French, or hash of game, 292
of wild fowl, 294
Salmon à la Generese, 59
à la St. Marcel, 60
baked over mashed potatoes, 60
to boil, 59
crimaped, 60
to fry in oil, 607
pudding (Scotch receipt), 60
Salsify, to boil, 341
to fry in batter, 341
Salt fish, to boil, 62
à la maitre d'hotel, 63
Salt, to, beef, in various ways, 196
Sandwiches, lemon, 374
pastry, 374
Sand-launce, or Sand-cel, mode of dressing,
77
Salzburger Nockerl, 620
Sauce (American), cold, for salads, salt fish,
&c., 133
anchovy, 115
baked apple, 124
boiled apple, 124
brown apple, 125
arrowroot, clear, 403
soup, 36
soup, 15


642
INDEX.
335
pot, 169
Stewed oxtails, 195
ox, or beef tongue (Bordyke receipt),
203
oysters, 86
sea-kale in gravy, 316
soles in creim, 07
tomatas, 327
trout, 80
turnips in butter, 336
turnips in
gravy,
knuchle of veal, with rice or green peas,
221
shoulder of veal, 219
shoulder of venison, 283
Stew, a god English, 101
a good family, 212
a German, 150
an Irish, 212
baked Irish, 243
Spring stev of vсal, 224
a Welsh, 191
Stew, to, shin of beef, 192
a rump of beef, 191
Stewing, general directions for, 173
Stew-pan, copper, 151
Stock, clear pale, 11
for white soup, 13
mutton, for soups, 14
shin of beef for gravies, 97
Store sauces, 145-155
Strawberries, to preserve, for flavouring
crcams, &c., 506
Strawberry vinegar, 577
jam, 604
jelly, 505
isinglass jelly, 468
tartlets, 375
vinegar, of delicious farour, 577
Stufato (a Neapolitan rek cipt, 615
Stuiting for geese and ducis, No. 9, 160
Cook's stufling for geese and ducks,
161
Suedoise, or apple hedgehog, 480
Suedoise of peaches, 483
Suet crust, for pies, superior, 343
common, 318
Sugar glazings, and icings, for fine pastry
and cakes, 513
barley, 564
grains, to colour, for cakes, &c., 542
to boil, from candy to caramel, 563
to clarify, 562
Swan's egg, to boil, 4-48
forced, 417
en salade, 448
Sweetbreads, to dress, 297
a la Maitre d'hotel, 227
cutlets, 227
small entrées of, 232
roasted, 215
Sweet, patties a la minute, 387
Syllabub, a birthd 581
Syllabubs, superior whipped, 476
Syrup, fine currant, or sirop de groseilles,
579
Tamarinds, acid, in curries, 296
Tapioca soup, 14
Tarragon vinegar, 151
Tart, a good apple, 363
young green apple, 364
barberry, 364
German, 802
the monitor's, 370
Tartlets, of almond paste, 367
creamed, 375
jelly, or custards, 375
to make, 561
lemon, 372
strawberry, 375
Tarts, to ice, 315
Tench, to fry, 63
Thickening for sauces, French, 106
Ti; sy cuki, 474
Toastii... directions for, 153
Toffce, Lverton, 367
another way, 567
Tomata catsup, 151
sauces, 193, 124
Tomatas, forced, 527
forced (French receipt) 328
purée of, 323
roast, 327
en salade, 327
stewed, 327
Tongue, to boil, 203
to stew, 203
Tongues, to pickle, 197
Tuurte, à la chatelaine, 364
the lady's, 36+
meringuée, or with royal icing, 363
Trifle, brandy, or tipsy cake, 474
an excellent, 473
Swiss, very good, 473
Trout, to stew (a good common receipt), 80
in wine, 80
Truffled butter, 139
sausiges, 203
Truflies and their 1189, 331
à l'Italienne, 33.
à la serviette, 232
to prepare for use, 332
Turbot, to boil, 56
au béchamel, 57
cold, with shrimp chatney, 144
à la créme, 57
Turkey, to boil, 267
boned and forced, 268
to bone, 265
à la Flamande, 270
to roast, 267
poult, to roast, 270
Turkeys' eggs, to dress, 447
forced (excellent entremets 447
poached, 419
sauce of, 110
Turnip-radishes, to boil, 318
soup, economical, 33
Turnips, to boil, 333
to mash, 333
stewed in butter, 334
in gravy, 335
in white sauce 334


INDEX.
613
soup, 12
Venison, sauces for, 295
to stew a loin of mutton like, 239
to stew a shoulder of, 283
Vermicelli pudding, 439
Viennese pudding, or Salzburger Nockerl, 620
Vinegar, cayenne, 153
celery, 152
cucumber, 152
eschalot, or garlic, 152
horse-radish, 153
green mint, 152
ra-pberry (very fine), 578
strawberry delicious), 577
tarragon, 151
Vol-au-rent, a, 357
à la créme, 358
of fruit, 358
Vols-au-rents, à la Parisienne, 37 1
small, to make, 561
Vanilla in cream, pudding, &c., 410
Vcal, blanquette of, with mushrooms, 229
boiled brcast of, 218
roast breast of, 219
breast of, simply stewed, 018 (see nole)
brcast of, stewed and glazed, 618
cake, Bordyke, 222
cake, small pain de veau, or veal, 222
to choose, 209
Scotch collops of, 296
custard, or Sefton, 362
cutlets, 225
cutlets, or collops, à la Francaise, 296
cutlets, à l'Indienne, or Indian fashion, 225
cutlets, à la mode de Londres, or London
fashion, 226
divisions of, 209
boiled fillct of, 217
roast fillet of, 216
fillet of, au bechamel, with oysters, 216
fricandeau of, 223
fricasseed, 231
goose (City of London receipt), 220
Norman harrico of: 994
boiled knuckle of, 221
knuckle of, en ragout, 221
knuckle of, with rice or green peas,
21
boiled loin of, 218
roast loin of, 217
stewed loin of, 218
minced, 230
minced, with oysters (or muslırooms), 231
neck of, à la créme, 220
Dieck of, roast, 220
to bone a shonlder of, 219
stewed shoulder of, 219
spring stew of, 224
Sydney, 231
Vegetable narrow, to boil, fry, mash, 327
vermicelli, 6
Vegetables, to boil green, 309
to clear insects from, 309
remarks on, 308
Venetinn cike (super excellent), 547
fritters (very good), 383
Venison, to choose, 281
collops and cutlets, 284
to lash, 28+
to roast a haunch of, 282
in pie, 352
Walnut catsur, 149-150
Walnuts, to pickle, 536
salad of, 141
Water Souchy (Greenwich receipt), 78
White bait (Grecnwich receipt), 78
Whitings baked, a la Francaise, 69
baked (Cinderella's receipt), 70
to boil, 68
to fry, 67
fillets of, 68
Wild ducks, to roast, and their season, 294
salmi, or hash of, 296
Wild fowl, its season, 291
Wine, elderberry (good), 581
eschalot, 163
ginger, 584
to mull (an excellent French receiplha
581
orange, 585
raisin, which resembles foreign, 583
Wine-vase, antique, 577
Wire lining for irying-pan, 177
Woodcocks, or snipes, to roast, 293
Woodruff, in Mai Trank, 620
Yorkshire ploughman's salad, 315
pudding, common, 441
pudding, good, 410
Regent potatoes, thicir excellence, 311
Woodfall and Kinder, Printers, Biord Lane, Strand, London, W.C.


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