NYPL RESEARCH LIBRARIES
3 3433 01731776 3





THE
A Ꭱ Ꭲ
OP
FRENCH COOKERY.
BY
nt une
A. B. BEAUVILLIERS,
RESTAURATEUR, PARIS.
THIRD EDITION,
LONDON:
PRINTED FOR
LONGMAN, REES, ORME, BROWN, AND GREEN,
PATERNOSTER-ROW
1827.


THE NE17 YORK
PCELIC LIBRARY
, الحمل
INOM, 1 *NOX A?
Tim FUTSA OS
R
19:5
L
1
.
London:
Printed by A. & R. Spottiswoode,
New-Street-Square.


I
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
The Art of Cookery, simple in its origin, but resued
from time to time, is now so complicated, that many
authors have written upon it without having been able
to investigate all its departments. Our pleasures are
rare; the ideas that renew them are fugitive api
variable; the endeavour to fix those ideas is cer-
tainly justifiable; and it is a pursuit natural to man to
enlarge the sphere of his enjoyments, by turning to
the best advantage the gifts of nature. We all pur-
sue, consciously or unconsciously, this object; and in
the secret of approximating to it, happiness may be
said to consist.
Those who unsparagir corsure the sims of an
often Decessary supersity in other area by ro
means inclined to quarrel with it in hemselves, and
would repine under the pritatiea of delicacies, were
they no longer attainable srce, therefore, it is im-
possible for us to confine ourier ces to Spartan broth,
it is certainly more reasonable to enjoy the resnements
of our sensuality than affect to scorn them; ard more
conformable to our tastes to augment than diminish
them. Our complaisant epicures will relish my theory,
and far perhaps from censuring it, would rather
carry it into practice. It would be dificult to sur-
pass the delicacy to which cooking was carried in the
Last century. The French gloried to see their goát
A 2


iv
PRELIMINARY
in culinary affairs bear equal sway with that of their
language and fashions over the opulent states of
Europe from north to south. I know not, if we have
attained the refinement of the grandees of Asia, or of
the Apicii of Rome; but certain it is, that we have
been acknowledged umpires of elegance in this art
and that our superiority has never been called in ques
tion. The studiers of delicacies, engaged in ideas less
dangerous
and more substantial than those of meta-
physicians, had made that course of observations which
their fortune opened to them; the doctrine of profes-
sors was established, they expected no farther pro-
gress, although ready to encourage the discovery of
any new pleasure. I have had the opportunity of fol-
lowing the most accredited methods, and often indeed
of improving on them, by successive experiments, and
it is the statement of these ameliorations, and my
particular method, which I here present, with the cir-
cumstances necessary even for those who are well ac-
quainted with the first elements.
It is not iny object here to enter into long details
on the Art ofCooking; båt toʻúñite, according to the
respective seasons: the fashionable dishes, to cook
those formerly admired;. and thus to present to the
amateurs de precise idea of an excellent and well con-
ducted repast: : 1? I have extended the limits of our
knowledge on this subject, I may also flatter myselt
with having added new attractions by a clear and ra-
pid survey, which coincides with the considerations of
economy.
Curiosity certainly may lead to new experiments
and necessary variety may introduce changes in the
simple decorations without affecting the chief ingre-
dients. An ingenious cook, such as Laguippiere,


DISCOURSE.
V
Caligre, &c. adds something to the composition
or decoration of a known dish, or takes something
from it, and gives it some fanciful name; such for in-
stance as that of his master. This variety of expres-
sion for the same idea may confuse the learner, and
produce confusion in the preparation ; but the new
name it acquires gives it the advantage of novelty ;
thus for example, the Côtelets à la purée d'oignons
has been named à la Soubise.
Far from priding myself on copying the learned in
this art, I have made different useful innovations,
and I lay myself under a particular obligation of ex-
posing with precision my method, which I believe to
be carried to perfection, according to the first officiers
de bouche, comptrollers of the royal palaces, and the
cooks of the highest repute, under whom I learned
and exercised it. I give circumstantial instructions
and new ideas on the best methods of distilling li-
queurs, of choosing wines, of bottling, preserving, and
repairing them. I offer a complete system for the store-
• rooms, as ices, preserves, &c. A mistress of a family
may from this book learn all known dishes, together
with those I have invented, and likewise be able to
direct their composition.
I give my methods in all their details; I present my
courses as they ought to be, according to their kinds;
but especially as they were prepared when foreigners
themselves did justice to the delicacy of our taste,
and the refinement of our luxury.
I have thought it necessary to add an index of re-
ferences to their composition.
In this work, I can flatter myself with having
enabled inn-keepers, cooks, confectioners, or ama-
{curs, with the assistance of the commonest cook,
À 3


vi
PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE.
10 make a great display and excellent cheer, by the
simplest and most economical means.
The experience of forty-four years is a guaranty for
my doctrine, which I believe to be the best, rather from
the general opinion than my own. Those who best
understand the enjoyments of the table, have never
ceased to rely on me. Proud of their suffrages, I shall
esteem myself happy still to contribute to their enjoy-
ments, and to add to their pleasures. I here present
the progress of the art, and my observations, matured
by long experience. These are my last adieus.


TO MISTRESSES OF FAMILIES.
The Author of the following pages, in offering his
work to the public, and especially to all concerned
in the economical and elegant arrangement of the
table, has not in particular addressed any one class,
either masters or servants. To those who have
lived long in foreign countries, this can have no
appearance of neglect, as there is not on the face
of the globe so extravagant a people as the Eng-
lish. The author, while practising economy in the
service of princes, and dedicating his life to the
palate of kings, could not discern the necessity of
inculcating economy to subjects, according to the
usual practice in works of this kind in this country.
It is still more astonishing, on a comparison of the
respective means for procuring the necessaries and
luxuries of life, that we should be so prodigal, and
that there should be less waste in the kitchens of
kings than in the middling and lower ranks with
This question would admit of much investi-
gation, into which we cannot now enter. Look to
the following pages, and observe, that the claw of a
chicken or the bone of a fish is not allowed to be lost ;
this is the management observed for the king's table,
and the care with which it is conducted is astonishing.
If the good things of this life are lavished on us,
we ought to use them without abusing them. We are
us.


viii
TO MISTRESSES OF FAMILIES.
i
1
not competent to judge why much is given or with-
held; but we shall undoubtedly be called to account
for the use of what has been entrusted to us. It is
much to be wished, that heads of families, in all
situations of life, would adopt the resolution of looking
into those details of expenditure which even
Buonaparte did not think beneath his attention and
a
care.
i
We hear a continual outcry against bad servants,
but who makes them bad? Are not the masters alone
to blame in most instances ? The best masters are
those who keep their servants constantly employed,
who look strictly after the morals of their household,
excluding the fashionable vice of cards from their
halls, and drunkenness from their stables. Let the
labourer live, but let not idle, useless, high fed people,
a pest to the community, and often a terror to their
masters, be left in indolence and luxury. Servants
ought to be well fed and well treated; they ought
also to be made to attend to their duty; as it is
evident, that those members of the community often
occasion extensive mischief in society by the ex-
travagance which they learnt in their masters' houses.
Put the question candidly to servants, if they were
not happier, healthier, and freer from anxiety when
they were strictly kept ; cleaner, better clothed, and
more modest in their deportment. Many servants
have allowed this, and have owned, that their tempt-
ations have arisen from idleness and full feeding.
Having cited the example of Buonaparte, it may be
contended, that the low state of French commerce
rendered the exhibition of such an example extremely
necessary ; but that was not the case, for a country
producing not only the necessaries but the luxuries


TO MISTRESSES OF FAMILIES.
is
of life may, without censure, use them more pro-
fusely than countries depending upon foreign markets,
whatever the state of the finances may be. Those
who have duly considered this important subject,
must have perceived the dreadful privations into which
luxury plunges her votaries. To day a sumptuous
dinner, and to-morrow a gaol, if not worse. A gentle-
man, upon his return from India, met a friend in the
streets of London, and after the congratulations were
over, regretted that he could not ask him to dinner,
as he was going to their friend B-'s who would be
delighted if he would be of the party : this invitation
was declined. A few days after they again met,
when the friend exclaimed, “ Poor B- is gone to
the d! all is spent! We knew he could not stand
it.” — “ And were you not a pack of r-ls,” ex-
claimed the other, “to go day after day to eat,
drink, and make merry with him, and neither to warn
him of his danger, nor now to visit him in his
affliction. Go and pay for your dinners by relieving
him."
Perhaps an amiable young person, carefully perusing
every thing that comes in her way upon this very
interesting subject, the price of which is comfort and
peace of mind, may be able to appreciate the ex-
perience of those that have gone before her; and to
such a one it may be hardly necessary to say more
than to place her in the right path. Let her be
told, that from eight to ten shillings a week for each
person throughout the family will procure abundance
of the real necessaries of life in beer, bread, beef,
butter, cheese, and the lesser items: this is a fair
estimate for mere living, all beyond it is luxury
and ought to be retrenched as means and situation re-


Х
TO MISTRESSES OF FAMILIES.
quire, for parsimony is as reprehensible as the bolder
vice of prodigality.
It is the bounden duty of those who have the
management of the kitchen, to be faithful in the dis-
charge of their trust with respect to every thing
placed under their care. They ought, in the first
place, to have a thorough knowledge of every thing
necessary for the kitchen ; such as the qualities of the
meat, the age, the healthy appearance, the best mode
of keeping, the various ways of cooking, salting,
pickling, and hanging; the preparing and melting of
fats for kitchen uses; the making of stocks and gravies
with parings, bones, and carcasses of poultry. The
requisites for first and second courses, and all par-
ticulars relative to poultry, fish, vegetables, sauces,
sallads, pastry, creams, compotes, &c. &c. A per-
son of good understanding, who knows a little of
cookery, may by attention and care, with the
assistance of the following receipts, soon become an
excellent cook; but great accuracy ought to be
observed, which, with a little experience, will soon
overcome every difficulty. As it is not customary in
English cookery to braise and poêle as the French do,
these operations ought to be thoroughly understood,
as well as that of farcing, which is so superior to the
preparation of English forced meats. If a cook has
to turn over a receipt book continually, the labour
is immense, and the time lost is incalculable. A
cook ought to spend a part of every unhurried day in
proćuring instruction, from which he will learn to
substitute one thing for another, and ascertain what
can and what cannot be dispensed with.
of this description would be invaluable in a family.
When he has a day or an hour of leisure, he ought to
A person


TO MISTRESSES OF PAMILIES.
xi
go and assist at entertainments when in town. There
is something to be learned every where. The greatest
source of complaint is the want of propriety in the
conducting of entertainments in all their varieties,
from the simple family dinner to the royal banquet ;
for instance, a family dinner ; a family dinner to which
guests are admitted ; a common party dinner ; an en-
tertainment; a bachelor's dinner; a ministerial dinner,
and a dress dinner ; though these and similar enter-
tainments are distinct, yet the distinctions are not sto
strictly observed as those in other usages of society
1
At the plainest, as well as the most splendid of these
entertainments, every thing presented ought to be as
good, as well cooked, and as nice as possible | but the
style of service ought to be varied, rising from the
simple, in elegant succession, to the sumptuous ; for
real taste does not indiscriminately present turtle and
venison on every occasion; something more delicately
palatable and less obtrusive is presented with the zest
of a fine mangoe, high flavoured vinegars, well made
sauces, nice sallads, and appropriate wines, and the
charms of a well-supported conversation afford an un-
cloying feast throughout the year.
The plateau and dormants, which are now coming
generally into use, give great elegance to the table;
but the constant sameness exhibited in general ought
to be carefully avoided by those who wish to attain
perfection in the management of a table. To avoid
this every elegant trifle ought to be introduced, ae-
cording to the style of the entertainment, as nests of
moss with plovers' eggs, sugar plumbs, grapes, or
any other delicate fruits, en chemise, small moss,
baskets of roses, violets and other sweet-smelling


xii
TO MISTRESSES OF FAMILIES.
delicate flowers ; many are not necessary, as the moss
may be raised under them, intermixed with crystal
vases, gold bowls, cups, &c. &c. The Romans used
to have their live fish under the table in vessels, from
which they were taken to be cooked in the sight of
the guests. We have had an example of fish mean-
dering on the royal table; in fine vases they would
make a beautiful ornament for the plateau. This the
French call dormant, because it remains all the time
of dinner, as they never take off the cloth, nor drink
as the English do after the dessert, it being their
custom to leave the dining room with the ladies.
Wherefore, if the plateau be changed, appropriate
ornaments should be substituted ; but whoever has
the management should be careful to avoid a same-
ness either in dishes or decoration : herbaceous
flowers done en chemise, flower and almond candies,
pralinées of orange flowers, confected pine-apples,
melons, citrons, lemons, and oranges; in short, every
thing delicate, bright, and shining, constitutes the
true ornament of the plateau. Having said so much
with respect to the table, something must now be ob-
served regarding the kitchen. Concluding that the
cook is perfectly cleanly and careful of the utensils,
attention must be paid to the washing of the kitchen
napkins, which never ought to be touched with soap,
as it alters the taste and destroys the colour of every
thing in cookery; they ought all to be lessived in wood
ashes, or washed with American ashes: the wooden
and marble pestles, spoons, spatulas and bowls, ought to
be boiled in ash-lye, and all cream and meat searches
ought to be cleaned with the same material. Sweet-
meat and sugar searches must never be used for any
other purpose. Let not a beginner be alarmed at


TO MISTRESSES OF FAMILIES.
xiii
the quantity of ingredients that is sometimes met with
in the following receipts; a little time will convince
him of their utility. Let him be only careful not to
overcharge or alter the proportions, as none of the
ingredients, but in given dishes, ought to predominate.
The cook must become acquainted with the taste that
every dish ought to have. In France, a dish once tasted
is always known again, but in England that is not the
case) a ragoût, fricasée, curry, fc. will vary in fa-
vour at different tables: this is owing to the con-
trariety of the receipts in the different cookery books,
and to the liberty taken with them. Hence, and from
the want of knowledge, bad cooks use much more
meat than is necessary, making up in this way for
their ignorance, which a steady attention to the fol-
lowing pages will obviate. Whenever a sauce is men-
tioned in any of the receipts, it will be found at its
place of reference.
a


TO THE COOK.
EVERY thing has been done to render the following
articles intelligible to every capacity, but it cannot be
too much recommended to the cook, if she wishes to
become an adept in her profession, to peruse the fol-
lowing pages with attention, till she acquires a
thorough knowledge; and instead of being intimi-
dated by French names, she ought to learn their sig-
nification. She will always find what she wants
under its own article, and one recipe will elucidate
another.
The first annoyance will arise from the frequent re-
currence of poêle, braise, godiveau, espagnole, potage,
consommé, velouté, marinade, fumet, rout, pâte à frire,
salpiçon, purée, &c. These terms once properly under-
tood, practice and regular attention will do the rest ;
for without method there can be little attainment.
Some words that cannot well be left out of the work
are added :
Barber, to cover with slices of lard.
Blanchir, to blanch by giving some boils in water.
Brider, to truss up a fowl, or any thing else with a
needle and pack thread, or tape.
Chevretter, to dish in a sort of garland one thing over
another round a dish.


TO THE COOL.
Glace, or demi-glace, a sauce reduced till it becomes
a strong or weak jelly.
Marquet, is to dispose properly ingredients into a
stewpan.
Masquet, is to cover any thing over, as with a sauce,
Paillasse, a grill over hot cinders.
Puit, a well, or the void left in the middle, when any
thing is dished round as a crown.
Sasser, to stir and work a sauce with a spoon.
Singer, to dredge lightly with flour
Vannet, to work a sauce well with a spoon, by lifting it
up and letting it fall.
Entrées, first-course dishes drest.
Entremets, second course dishes ditto.
Gril à tirage. A grill with close and narrow ribs,
used for drying caramel and chemised fruits and
Aowers


1
f
H
1
1
3


THE ART
OF
FRENCH COOKERY.
SOUPS.
Potages. Grand Bouillon.
To prepare a great dinner, it is necessary that a
sufficient quantity of stock for soups and sauces
should be ready, for which purpose put into a large
pot a piece of the breast or rump of beef, with the
dressings of any other sort of meat you may have
in preparation at the time for the repast ; veal, nut-
ton, lamb, with the bones, Deck, and feet of the
poultry and game, that may be prepared for removes.
Put the pot upon a moderate fire, not quite filled with
water, and skim it carefully; throw in a little cold
water every time you skim it, till it becomes per-
fectly limpid, for upon this stock depends the beauty
of your soups and sauces: season it with salt, two
turnips, six carrots, six onions, one of which is to be
stuck with three cloves and a bunch of leeks, and let
the whole simmer slowly. When the piece of meat
is cooked, or nearly so, if it is to be served, put it
into a stewpan, and pour over it a little of the top of
the stock; wet and wring a cloth, and run the stock
through, which will then be in readiness to make
soups, sauces, &c.
Stock. —Empatage Consommé.
Take a proper tinded pot; heat it lightly and wipe
it well ; put in a shank and a piece of a buttock of beef,
B


2
FRENCH COOKERY
a knuckle of veal, a fowl, an old rabbit, or two old
partridges, and about six pints of stock; reduce it
upon a quick fire till it becomes a jelly, then add
more stock, boil it on a quick fire and skim it :
season it with three turnips, three carrots, three
onions, one stuck with two or three cloves, a bunch
of leaks, and celery ; put it then on the side of the
grate, and let it simmer till it is done enough: when
the different meats of which it is composed are suffi-
ciently cooked, they ought to be taken out, as they
may be dressed for successive tables; when ready
take off the fat, put it through a gauze search or a
linen cloth, first wet and wrung.
Strong Stock for Soups and Sauces. Grand
Consommé.
Put into a pot two knuckles of veal, a piece of a
leg of beef, a fowl, or an old cock, a rabbit, or two
old partridges ; add a ladleful of soup, and stir it
well : when it comes to a jelly, put in a sufficient
quantity of stock, and see that it is clear : let it boil,
skimming and refreshing it with water; season it as
the above : you may add, if you like, a clove of gar-
lic: let it then boil slowly or simmer four or five
hours : put it through a towel, and use it for mixing
in sauces, or clear soups.
White Soup. — Blond de Veau.
Butter the bottom of a saucepan and put into it
some slices of ham, four or five pounds of a leg of
veal, two or three carrots, and as many onions; wet
them with a ladleful of grand bouillon, make it sweat
over a slow fire, and reduce it to jelly: when it is of
a fine yellow tint, take it off the fire, prick the meat
with the point of a knife to let the juice flow; cover
and let it sweat another quarter of an hour, and then
put in a sufficient quantity of grand bouillon, or the
strong stock given in the first receipt : season it with
parsley and small onions, a clove of garlic stuck with
a clove ; boil and skim, and put it to simmer on the
edge of the grate, and when enough, skim it, run it


SOUPS.
3
through a cloth, and make use of it for empotage, or
rice or vermicelli soup, and even sauces.
Crust Soup. — Mitonnage.
Take a household loaf and rasp it lightly, cut out
the crumb without breaking it, which will answer for
frying to garnish spinage dishes or soups, or for a
charlotte or a panade; round the crusts handsomely,
and let them simmer a few minutes : before serving,
put any vegetables on them, and pour over an em-
potage : serve it as hot as possible.
Grilled Crusts, to be served up with Soups. —
Potage, Croútes au Pot.
Cut bread in slices, put them in a deep silver dish,
wet them with good stock or soup, and let them sim-
mer; when it is reduced, put red cinders into the
furnace to make it gratiner*; cut one or two house-
hold loaves in two, take out the crumb, put the crusts
upon a gridiron, and dry them over hot cinders ;
when they are sufficiently dried, wet the inside with
the fat of the bouillon or soup, what is generally
called top-pot, and shake a little fine salt over ; drain
them and put them on the gratin without covering
them, that they may not soften, basting them from
time to time with the top of the bouillon or soup, till
they are perfectly done ; take off the fat, and send in
separately a tureen of consommé or bouillon.
Spring Soup:
—Potage Printanier. .
It is made as that of a la Julienne, except that peas
and points of asparagus are added, small radishes and
small boiled onions; in cooking the vegetables, put
in a little sugar, to correct the bitter ; let the potage
simmer ; cover it with the vegetables, and serve.
Cressy Soup.-Potage à la Crecy.
According to the season, have all sorts of vegetables
icked and washed with care, such as carrots, turnips,
celery, onions, &c., in small quantity; boil them a
* Gratiner is to crisp and obtain a little grilled taste.
B 2


FRENCH COOKERY.
1
1
Rice Soup
1
quarter of an hour ; put them into a stewpan with a
large piece of butter, and some slices of ham ; set
them upon a slow fire till they are enough; drain and
pound them in a mortar, and add the liquor in which
they were boiled; rub them through a search to make
a purée; let it boil, and leave it to cook two hours ;
skim well; have ready a mitonage, as has been before
directed, and serve the crecy upon
it.
Potage au Riz.
Take a quarter of a pound of good rice; wash it in
different waters ; boil, drain, and put it into a little
pot or stewpan, wet it a little, and break it slowly
under the furnace; when done add a sufficient quantity
of consommé (or blond) of veal; let it be properly
salted, and serve.
-
Truss a capon as a fowl; leave the pinions, truss
them nicely; put it in a pot with a bunch of herbs
well seasoned, and two onions, one stuck with two
cloves; wet the whole with grand bouillon, and skim
it. During the time it is cooking, prepare rice as
in the last article ; skim it, and let the rice swell:
when ready to serve, put into the rice the bouillon in
which the capon was cooked, first having put it
through a gauze search, and adding a spoonful of
beef stock to give it a fine colour; unskewer and
dish the capon; lay it in a dish, strew a little salt
on the breast, with a spoonful of juice, or the
bouillon in which it was dressed, and serve it as a re-
move for the soup.
Fowl or Capon in Rice. — Chapon au Riz.
Trass the capon as in the last article, and dress a
pound of rice exactly as the preceding; put it with
the capon in a pot large enough to contain them
without being too full; put in but little bouillon, that
it may not be too thin; when the capon is done,
which will be known by pinching the wing, unskewer
it, and put it into a dish; take the fat off the rice, add
1
1
1


SOUPS.
5
some beef soup to colour it, pour it over the capon,
and serve it for an entrée or a remove.
Clear Soup with Vermicelli. — Potage au Vermicelle
Clair.
Put into a stewpan as much blond de veau, bouillon,
or consommé, as will make a potage for six or eight
persons; make it boil ; take six ounces of vermicelli,
and put it by little and little into the soup, breaking
it slowly in with the hand, that it may not run to-
gether, or ball; let it boil six minutes, draw it to the
front of the furnace, and skim it; let it simmer till
enough, taking care that it does not dilate or melt too
much.
Italian Soup.- Potage Italien.
Take carrots, turnips, onions, celery, parsnips,
lettuces, and sorrel, in equal quantities, boil them in
salt and water, and then put them into fresh water ;
cut the roots in slices of an equal length, then cut
them still finer; cut the sorrel, lettuce, and celery in
the same manner; wash the whole in a quantity of
water; drain them; put a quarter of a pound of
butter into a stewpan with the vegetables ; put them
over a furnace till they have taken a slight colour;
wet them with a ladlefull of bouillon; when
they are half done put in the sorrel; let them
simmer till enough; skim; have ready at the time
of serving a mittonage, pour it over, mix it lightly,
and serve.
Brunoise Soup-Potage à la Brunoise.
Cut into small dice carrots, turnips, parsnips, and
celery; take the top of the pot, or clarified butter ;
heat it, and throw in the vegetables, let them
brown, drain, and wet them with white soup, (or blond
de veau, consommé, or bouillon,) that is, any soup;
cook it as directed for the Italien, skim, and cover
the mitonnage. If it is served with rice, care must be
taken that the dice of the vegetables are not larger
than the rice when it is swelled, and mix all well to-
gether.
B 3


6
FRENCH COOKERY.
Green Pease Soup. - -Potage à la Purée de Pois.
Take a sufficient quantity of peas, put them into
a pot with onions, carrots, a bunch of leeks, and
celery, with a bone, or some slices of ham or bacon;
if they are old, let them be steeped the night before;
if new, use them immediately; toss them in butter,
with a handful of parsley and small onions ; wet them
with good soup; when they are soaked enough, drain,
and beat them in a mortar, put them through a search,
with the juice that was drained out of them ; put
it into a saucepan, and let it simmer four or five
hours; stir it often, that it may not stick; skim before
stirring it; when it is done, serve it over rice, ver-
micelli, or fried bread, which must be added at the
moment of serving.
Lentil Soup. Potage à la Purée de Lentilles à la
Reine, ou autre Lentilles.
Proceed in the same manner as is directed for the
green-pease soup, and the same also for the potage;
take care if they are the lentilles à la reine to leave it
longer on the fire, that the purée may have as fine a
red as possible, on which depends the beauty and
goodness of the potage.
Carrot Soup --Potage à la Purée de Carottes.
Prepare fifteen or twenty carrots, cut them in slices,
put them in a stewpan, i with three-quarters of a
pound of good butter, upon a quick fire, and stir
them till they are browned, then add some good
soup; when enough, rub it through a search, and
finish it as directed for green-pease soup and lentils ;
take off the fat, and let it simmer a long time, and
serve it in the same manner as the pease soup.
Turnip Soup.-Potage a la Purée de Navets.
It is done in the same manner as that of carrots,
only that it is not browned, and takes less boiling ; it
is kept as white as possible.
Potage aur Laitues.
Take twelve or fifteen lettuces, clean and pick them,
keeping them entire, and wash them through several
Lettuce Soup


SOUPS.
7
waters, taking care that no worms remain ; boil them
and throw them into fresh water; take them out, press-
ing the water from them, tie two or three together,
cover a stewpan with slices of bacon, arrange them
upon it, put in two or three slices of ham, à carrot,
an onion, a bunch of parsley in which is a clove, and
half a bay leaf; wet the lettuce with the top of the
bouillon, or consommé; season with salt and pepper ;
when ready to serve, drain the lettuces and press
them
lightly, that the fat may come out, and according to
their size they may be left whole or cut in two, and
put into the soup.
Chesnuts Soup -Potage à la Purée de Marrons.
Take boiled chesnuts, skin and pick out all the bad
ones; put them in a fryingpan, with a little bit of butter,
and toss them till the inner scurf comes easily off; when
it is rubbed off, put them in a pot with a little stock
or consommé, and let them cook; drain, and pound them
in a mortar, put them through a search, wetting them
with the stock in which they were cooked; when they
are thus prepared, put them in a stewpan with two
spoonsful of stock; mix it well with the purée; leave
it to simmer three or four hours; take off the fat and
add a little sugar, season it properly, and serve it with ·
bread fried in butter, or a mittonage.
Mock Turtle. Potage en Tortue.
Take four or five pounds of mutton, of the shoulder
or leg, or six or seven of any of the other parts, put
in the offals of fish, as head and fins of whitings, sal-
mon, a carp or its offals, and so of others; put alto-
gether into a pot, season it as the blond de veau; make
it sweat in the same manner, wet it with water, and
skim it well, let the bunch of parsley be stuffed with
aromatics and two branches of sweet basil, and two
of marjoram; let the mutton simmer till it comes off
the bones; put the bouillon through a cloth, clarify it
with the whites of two or three eggs, slightly beaten;
give it a boil, and let it repose to clarify; put it again
through another cloth, and reduce it till it is strong
B 4


8
FRENCH COOKERY.
enough to bear Madeira ; take half a calf's head, pre-
pare it the evening before, that it may be white, take
out the bones, and leave it in water, which must be
changed three or four times; blanch and refresh it,
cook it in a blanc (see article Blanc); when enough,
drain and cut in squares of an inch, and put it into the
bouillon with three-quarters of a bottle of Madeira, a
small teaspoonful of cayenne pepper, and another of
allspice; dish; have ready fifteen hard yolks of eggs,
put them in whole when ready to serve ; if small
eggs can be procured from the fowls in use, they will
answer better, or some small ones may be made.
Cabbage Soup. - Potage au Chou.
Take the cabbages that will be necessary, cut them
in quarters, boil them in a great quantity of water,
after which throw them into fresh water, take out
the stalks, tie them, and put them as directed for
lettuce soup into a stewpan with a little bacon; nou-
rish* and season them still more, and serve them in
every way as directed for the lettuce soup. They
require more boiling.
Sago and Turnip Soup: Potage au Sagou et à la
Purée de Navets.
is used in the same manner as rice, ex.
cept that it is not boiled; put it into strong boiling
soup, and let it have two or three boils; draw it to
the edge of the furnace, and when it becomes jelly
put in the purée de navets; stir all well ; see that it is
properly salted, and serve.
Condé Soup.
Potage a la Condé.
Take the necessary quantity of red haricots, put
them into a pot with water or grand bouillon (soup),
and a bit of bacon, three carrots, three onions, one
of them stuck with two cloves, a bunch of leeks and
celery ; let all cook well together, take out the vege
tables, rub them through a search, adding the soup
in which they were cooked, put it again on the fire;
• To nourish, is to put in more ham, bacon, butter, &c. &c.
The sago


SOUPS.
9
if it is for a potage maigre, use butter instead of bacon,
and to finish it in either way a bit of butter must be
added ; fry some bread cut in dice, and when ready
to serve, put it in the purée
Crawfish Soup. — Potage à la Bisque d'Ecrevisse.
Take half an hundred of crawfish, or more, ac-
cording to their size, wash them through several
waters, and take out those that are dead; drain, and
put them in a stewpan with bouillon, but not enough
to allow them to swim, upon a good fire ; toss them,
and when enough take them off the fire, and leave
them covered for five or six minutes ; drain them;
when they are half cold take off the tails and the
shells, and put them all into a mortar with the bodies,
and beat them till you hardly perceive the shells, to
the consistence of a paste ; pat the size of two eggs
of crumbs of bread into the bouillon in which they were
cooked, dry it upon a slow fire, put it into the mortar
with the crawfish, and mix the whole with good
bouillon, and rub it through a search ; put it into a
stewpan upon the fire without allowing it to boil ;
stir it well, and observe that it is of a proper thickness,
set it in a bain marie*, taste that it is properly salted,
and serve it with rice or fried bread.
Queen's Soup:
—Potage à la Reine.
Take the breasts of three fowls, skewer them, put
over them a thin slice of lard, cover them with
put
them
upon
the spit or into a stewpan,
which must be covered with slices of ham, veal, and
an onion with two or three pared carrots and a bunch
of seasoned parsley, cover it lightly with thin slices of
lard, and afterwards with two or three rounds of
buttered paper, that they may not take any colour;
put in two or three spoonfuls of consommé; make them
boil upon the furnace, put them under it or, upon
a paillasset ; let them cook twenty minutes, take them
• Bain marie is a deep pan filled with water raised nearly to
boiling heat.
+ A hot hearth, or grill over hot cinders.
paper, and
B 5


10
FRENCH COOKERY
1
up, and let them cool; strain the soup through a gauze
search, make a panade with it, such as that which is
directed for the potage à la bisque; hash the breasts
very fine, put them in a mortar, and pound them with
twenty sweet and two bitter almonds, as is directed
(article Lait d'Amandes), pound all well together,
aferwards take it out and mix it with the consommé
made of the carcases of the three fowls from which
the breasts were taken, run it through a search.
Another way. Autre manière.
Put in the heads and debris of the fowls, wet them
with consommé, and skim them; put in vegetables, but
take care that it is not too much coloured; let it boil
slowly for an hour and half; run this soup through a
cloth, and use it to mix with purée de volaille, passing
it through a search; let it be of a proper thickness ;
put it in a new tinned pan, that it may be very white,
heat it without boiling in a bain-marie ; you may serve
it with bread cut and fried in butter, or with rice well
broken, and pretty dry; taste if it is good, and serve.
Macarone Soup.-Potage au Macaroni.
Have some good consommé boiling in a stewpan,
put in some macaroni, boil and skim it as is directed
for the vermicelli, and let it boil a quarter of an hour ;
draw it to the side of the furnace and let it simmer ;
rasp some parmesan and the same quantity of Gruyères
cheese, put it in before serving, or serve them sepa-
rately; let it be rather thick than clear.
Genoa Soup. — Potage à la Génois, ou aux Raviolis.
Take the breast of a young cock that has been
roasted, hash it well, and add as much of veal udder,
the same quantity of spinage, boiled and pressed, and
as much rasped parmesan, pound it altogether in a
mortar; add, from time to time, five yolks of eggs;
season it with salt, a small quantity of large pepper,
and the quarter of a grated nutmeg; when the whole
is well pounded and of a good taste, take some feuille-
tage or pâte brisée, and roll it out as thin as possible ;
wet with the yolks of eggs this paste, and put about


SOUPS.
11
half the size of a nut of this farce from distance to
distance upon it, and fold the paste over it, and unite
it well in forming the raviolis; then cut them with a
paste cutter, taking care that the farce is in the
middle, and that the raviolis have the form of a little
star; boil them in a grand bouillon ; drain, and put them
into an excellent consommé when ready to serve.
Italian Paste Soup. Potage aux Pâtes d'Italie.
Put
upon
the fire some excellent bouillon, and when
it boils fast throw in some Italienne paste of any
shape, stir it that it may not ball, skim in the same
manner as is directed for the potage au macaroni ; let
it simmer a quarter of an hour, and serve
Another Italian Paste Soup.- Potage à la Semoule.
The semoule is also an Italian paste, which resem-
bles grits; make this potage as the others, only stirring
it a little more that the semoule may not stick or ball.
Chicken Broth.-Bouillon de Poulet.
Skin a fine fowl, dress the feet and truss it nicely;
put it in a pot with ten pints of water, put in an ounce
of the quatre semences (froid) after having broken it;
put it in a linen bag, simmer it over a slow fire till it
is reduced to eight pints, and use it as refreshing
bouillon, or chicken broth.
Pectoral Chicken Broth-Bouillon de Poulet
Pectoral.
Take a fowl as above, two ounces of barley and as
much rice, put them altogether into a pot, with two
ounces of Narbonne honey ; skim it, let it simmer
three hours till it is reduced to two-thirds; it is very
good for softening'irritation of the breast.
Veal Broth.-Bouillon de Veau refratchissant.
Cut in dices half a pound of the fillet of veal, boil
in three pints of water with two or three lettuces
and a handful of endive; add a little wild endive;
pass it through a gauze search, and serve.
Soup of Calf's Lights. Bouillon de Mou de Veau.
Take a piece of calf's lights, clean it well, and cut it
B 6


12
FRENCH COOKERY.
into small dice, put it into a saucepan with twelve pints
of water, six or eight turnips cut small, three heads of
chiccory, and a dozen of jububes *; make it boil, skim
and reduce it to two-thirds, pass it through a gauze
search; this is another excellent broth for the breast.
SAUCES.
Beef Juice.—Jas de Beuf.
Butter the bottom of a stewpan, put into it some
thin slices of ham and lard or bacon, with slices of
onions and carrots, covering the whole with thick
slices of beef, wet it with two spoonfuls of grand
bouillon, or good stock, make it boil upon a brisk fire;
when it begins to stick, give it a prick with a knife;
put it upon a slow fire or furnace, and take care it
does not burn; when it is firmly fixed, wet it as
directed for the blond de veau, skim it and season it
with a bunch of parsley, and some stalks of mush-
rooms; when the meat is sufficiently cooked take off
the fat and run the juice through a napkin; make use
of it to colour potages, sauces, or made-dishes, which
either require juice or colouring.
Grande Sauce.
Butter a saucepan and cover it with slices of ham,
cut veal in pieces and cover the ham with it, and put
in one or two spoonfuls of bouillon, as much as will
nearly cover the veal; put in two carrots, a large
onion, which must be taken out when done ; when it
has become jelly, leave very little fire under, sur-
round it with hot cinders, let it colour by sticking,
detach it by putting in a ladleful of cold bouillon,
and as soon as it is detached fill the saucepan with
bouillon ; when the veal is done enough, take it out
and pass it through a napkin into a saucepan, and if
too strong reduce it to the proper thickness for sauce,
by adding roux; boil it and set it aside upon the fur
nace; shake it from time to time, and if it is not of a
good colour add some beef juice (jus de boeuf); if a
• Jububes is a fruit not much known here but as a preserve.


SAUCES.
13
skin should form, do not take it nor the fat off till it
is perfectly done and ready to be passed through a
search, but do not force it through; vannez * or stir
and cool it by letting it fall from the spoon into the
basin till quite cold to prevent its skinning anew, and
make use of it for all brown sauces.
Sauce Espagnole.
Take two or three nois of vealt, cover a saucepan
with slices of bacon and ham, let there be most of the
last, and conduct it by wetting it with consommé, as is
directed for the grande sauce ; season it with five or
six carrots and as many onions ; after it has boiled
put it upon a slow fire that the juice may be made ;
when the glaze is properly formed it will be a fine
yellow; take it off the fire, prick it with the point of
a knife that the juice may come out; wet it with con.
sommé in which has been cooked a sufficient quantity
of partridges, rabbits, or fowls; put in a bunch of
parsley and young onions, seasoned with two cloves
according to the quantity, half a bay leaf, a clove of
garlic, a little sweet basil and thyme; boil the whole,
and draw it to the edge of the grate, and skim it; at
the end of two hours mix it with the rous as the
coulis ; let it rather be clear than thick; boil it from
half to three quarters of an hour that the rouz may
incorporate ; skim and pass it through a search into
another stewpan; put it again upon the fire, and let it
reduce a fourth part. This answers for all brown
sauces; add Madeira, Champagne, or Burgundy, ac-
cording to the sauce. Never put wine into Espagnole,
as some sauces do not require it, and it spoils before
next day; it is therefore better to reduce the wine in a
little glaze according to the quantity wanted at the time.
Espagnole Travaillée.
When Espagnole is used for sautés, or simple sauce
take two or three ladlesful and a third of consomme
• Striking a sauce up and down with a spoon is called by the
French vanner.
† Noix de reau is the largest muscle in the leg or fillet.


SAUCES.
15
sweet herbs; moisten the whole with a little con.
sommé, and let them sweat gently; when it becomes
glaze, and has taken a yellow tint, moisten with
bouillon, or water, reducing it more; skim, season
with salt, and let it simmer three hours; then skim
and pass it through a wet napkin ; let it cool; break
two eggs, whites, yolks, and shells together; whip
them, wet them with bouillon, and add a spoonful of
tarragon vinegar, and put it into the aspic; set it
upon the fire, and stir it with a whisk; when it begins
to boil, draw it to the side of the stove, that it may
simmer; put fire over it; when it becomes clear,
pass it through a wrung wet cloth, hung upon a
frame ; put it upon the fire, and cover as before ; pass
it again through a napkin, when it will be ready for all
sorts of aspics.
White Butter Sauce. -Sauce Blanche au Beurre.
Put into a saucepan half a pound of butter, cut
into pieces, and strew a little flour over ; pour
water softly upon it, shake the saucepan till it is well
mixed with the water, put in a little salt, and, if
agreeable, a little rasped nutmeg; put it upon the
fire, and stir it with a wooden spoon, until it is ready
to boil ; then take a skimming spoon, vannez* your
sauce ; when enough, pass it through a search, and put
it in a bain marie.
Béchamelle Sauce. Sauce à la Béchamelle.
Put such a quantity of velouté as may be wanted into
a saucepan, with a little consommé; if required four
pints of velouté ; put it upon a quick fire; stir it with
care till it is reduced a third ; reduce four pints of
good cream to two-thirds, and mix it in little by
little, and stir it till the whole has reduced a half;
this sauce ought to be rather thin ; pass it through a
search; put it in a bain-marie to be ready for use.
Another way.
Cut some slices of ham, and twice as much veal,
some carrots, five small onions, with a little shalot,
Vannez, or work the sauce.


16
FRENCH COOKERY.
two cloves, a bay-leaf, and nearly half a pound of
butter; put all upon the fire ; stir with a wooden
spoon ; when the meat begins to give the juice, shake
a little flour over it, take it off the fire, stir it, that
the flour may be well mixed ; put it upon the fire,
stirring it, that it may not burn; when sufficiently
done, mix in some consommé, or good bouillon; put
it on a quick fire, and finish as above with the cream
or good milk, and put it into the bain-marie.
Sauce Menéhould. Sainte Menéhould.
Put into a stewpan a bit of butter, broken in pieces ;
shake over it a little flour, and add a little milk or
cream; season it with parsley, young onions, half a
bay-leaf, mushrooms, and shalots'; put it on the fire,
keep stirring it, pass it through a search, put it again
upon the fire, with some hashed parsley, and a little
pepper
Sauce à la Bonne Morue.
It is made in the same way as the Sainte Menéhould,
only that it is not so thick, and hashed parsley is
strewed over such meats as is served with it.
Sauce à la Pouletle.
Put some reduced velouté into a stewpan, let it
boil; add a little bit of butter, with the juice of a
lemon, and a little hashed parsley; if there is no
velouté, make a roux blanc, mix it with bouillon ; add
parsley and small onions, simmer, and reduce ; skim,
pass it through a tammy, and serve.
Italian Brown Sauce. -Sauce Italienne Rousse.
Cut twelve dices of ham, and put it into a stew-
pan, with a handful of mushrooms well minced, and a
sliced lemon, from which the peel and seeds must be
taken, add a spoonful of hashed shalot, washed and
dried in a cloth, half a bay-leaf, two cloves, and a gill
of oil; put all upon the fire; when nearly ready,
take out the lemon, and put in a spoonful of minced
parsley, a spoonful of Espagnole, a glass of good
white wine, without reducing it, and a little pepper
1
1
1
1


SAUCES.
17
reduce, skim, take out the ham, and when it has ob-
tained its point, take it off
Italian White Sauce.Sauce Italienne Blanche.
It is exactly the same, only velouté is used instead
of Espagnole.
Sauce à la Maître-d'Hôtel.
Put a piece of butter into a saucepan with some
hashed parsley, some tarragon leaves, one or two
leaves of balm, with salt, lemon, or a glass of verjuice;
mix the whole with a wooden spoon until they are
well incorporated.
Sauce à la Maitre-ď Hôtel liée.
Take two ladlesful of velouté and put it into a
stewpan; put in the size of an egg of butter, with
some very fine-minced parsley, and two or three
leaves of minced tarragon; put it over the fire, and
stir it, that it may be properly mixed; at the
moment of serving it, pass and vannez the sauce ;
add lemon or verjuice.
Sauce au Supreme.
Take two or three ladlesful of reduced velouté, and
put it into a stewpan, with the same quantity of
the consommé of fowls ; reduce it a half; when ready to
serve, put in the size of an egg of butter; put it
upon a brisk fire; mix it well, and when sufficiently
done, not too thick, take it off, and add lemon or ver-
juice; vannez it, and serve.
Sauce à la Matelote.
Put into a saucepan a ladleful of reduced Espag-
nole; when done, put in small onions which have
been fried in butter, with some dressed mushrooms
and artichoke bottoms; when ready to serve, put in
the size of a small walnut of butter; shake it well, in
order to mix it without breaking the ingredients, and
serve
Sauce Poivrade.
Cut twelve small dices of ham, and put them into
a stewpan, with a little bit of butter, five or six


18
FRENCH COOKERY
branches of parsley, two or three young onions cut in
two, a clove of garlic, a bay leaf, a little sweet basil,
thyme, and two cloves ; put them together upon a
quick fire; when they are well done, put in a little
fine pepper, a large spoonful of vinegar, and four
spoonsful of Espagnole not reduced; shake and boil
it, draw it to the edge of the stove, and let it simmer
three quarters of an hour ; skim, and pass it through a
tammy.
Sauce Hachée.
Put into a stewpan a spoonful of hashed blanched
shalots, as many mushrooms, and a little minced
parsley; pour over it two or three ladlesful of Espag-
nole, as much bouillon, and two spoonfuls of vinegar,
with a little pepper; boil, and skim it, mince a spoon-
ful or two of capers; when ready to serve, add the but-
ter of one or two anchovies ; pass it through a search,
and vannez it well. The capers ought not to be boiled.
Sauce piquante.
Put into a stewpan two or three skimming spoonfuls
of Espagnole or coulis, a spoonful of white vinegar, a
bay leaf, a clove of garlic, a little thyme, a clove, a
spoonful or two of bouillon, and a little salt; skim it,
and when it has boiled a quarter of an hour, pass it
through a search.
Sauce à la Nonpareille, ou à l'Arliquine.
Cut some dices of ham very equal, with the same
quantity of truffles; put them into a stewpan, with a
bit of butter, upon a slow fire, and let them simmer a
quarter of an hour; if the sauce is to be white, put
three skimming spoonfuls of velouté ; but if brown, let
it be reduced as Espagnole; add half a glass of good
white wine, and a spoonful of consommé; let it re-
duce; put in the whites of hard eggs and mushrooms
in the same quantity as the ham and truffles, and cut
in the same manner; also lobsters' tails, and spawn, if
there is any; finish with a bit of butter the size of a
walnut and half.


SAUCES.
19
Sauce à la Pluche.
Take some very green parsley leaves, blanch and
refresh them, and throw them into a search; put into
a stewpan three skimming spoonsful of reduced
velouté, and two of consommé; reduce the whole ;
when ready to serve throw in the parsley; if too salt,
put in a bit of butter; pass, vannez it, and serve.
Sauce aux Truffes, ou à la Périgueux.
Cut down truffles in rounds or dices; put them on
a slow fire, with a bit of butter, and let them simmer ;
put in a sufficient quantity of reduced Espagnole, and
add consommé or bouillon ; white wine in equal pro-
portion; reduce, and skim it, and finish it with a bit of
butter.
Observe, that acid should never be put to this sauce,
as it takes off its softness, and the wine is quite
sufficient.
Mushroom Sauce-Sauce à la Purée de Champignons.
Take two handfuls of mushrooms, wash them in
several waters, rubbing them lightly : put them into a
drainer; mince them with their stalks ; put them into
a stewpan, with the size of an egg of butter; let them
fall over a slow fire, and when nearly done, moisten
them with two skimming spoonfuls of velouté ; let them
simmer three quarters of an hour more; rub them
through a search, and finish it with cream as is di-
rected for the onion purée, with this difference, how-
ever, that this ought to be rather clearer.
Sauce en Tortue.
Put into a saucepan a ladleful of reduced Espagnole,
a large glass of hard Madeira, a tea spoonful of curry
powder, and half that quantity of Cayenne; reduce
the whole ; skim, put in some cocks' combs and kid-
neys, artichoke bottoms, a veal or lamb's sweetbread;
boil the whole, that the ingredients may taste and
take the colour of the sauce ; at the moment of
serving put in six or eight hard yolks of eggs; take
care not to break them in stirring the sauce, and
serve,


20
FRENCH COOKERY.
Curry Sauce, ou à l'Indienne.
Put into a stewpan three spoonfuls of reduced
telouté, as much consommé, a tea-spoonful of curry-
powder; take a little saffron, boil it in a stall pan;
when it has given its colour rub it through a search
into the sauce ; let it boil, and skim it; if it is not hot
enough put in a little Cayenne pepper.
Sauce Tomate.
Take a dozen of tomates very ripe, and of a fine
red; take off the stalks, open and take out the seeds,
and press them in the hand to take out the water;
put the expressed tomates into a stewpan, with the
size of an egg of butter, a bay leaf, and a little thyme;
put it upon a moderate fire; stir it till it becomes a
purée; while it is doing put in a spoonful of Espagnole,
or the top of bouillon, called top-pot, which will be
better ; when it is thus prepared, rub it through a
search, and put it into a stewpan with two spoonfuls
of Espagnole ; reduce to the consistence of a light
bouillie ; put in a little salt, and a small quantity of
Cayenne pepper.
Sauce à l'Ivoire.
Take a common fowl, and open it at the back;
draw it, put it into a small pot, with two carrots, two
onions, a clove stuck in one of them, and a bunch
of sweet herbs; add two ladlesful of consommé, or
bouillon that has no colour ; let it boil, skim, set it
upon the side of the stove to simmer, leave it nearly
an hour and a half ; pass it through a napkin ; take two
or three spoonsful of this consommé, put it in a stew-
pan with the same quantity of velouté ; reduce it to
the consistence of sauce; when ready to serve put in
the half of the size of an egg of butter ; pass it, and
vannez it well; put in a spoonful of lemon-juice, and
serve.
White Ravigote Sauce. —Sauce Ravigote Blanche.
Take cresses, burnet, chervil, tarragon, a few stalks
of celery, and two balm leaves, prick and wash them,
put them into a vessel, and pour over them a little


SAUCES.
21
boiling water ; cover, and let them infuse three quar-
ters of an hour ; strain, and put the juice in a stew-
pan with three skimming spoonfuls of velouté, half a
spoonful of white vinegar, and the half of the size of
an egg of butter; pass, vannez, and serve.
Cold Ravigote Sauce.—Sauce Ravigote froide et crue.
Take the same ravigote, or small herb, as that di-
rected above; mince it very fine; add a spoonful of
capers also finely minced, one or two anchovies, well
bruised, a little fine pepper and salt ; put all into
a marble mortar, beat till all is completely mixed;
add a raw yolk ; while beating, wet it with a little
oil, and from time to time with a little white vinegar
to prevent its turning ; continue till it is of the con-
sistence of sauce; if wanted very strong, add mustard,
and serve.
Drest Ravigote Sauce.-Sauce Ravigốte cuite.
Take the same ravigote or herbs already men-
tioned, clean and blanch them; when cooked throw
them into fresh water; drain, and beat them well in
a mortar; rub them through a search ; moisten them
with oil and vinegar ; season with pepper and salt, as
a remoulade taste if well seasoned, and serve.
Green Sauce.Sauce Verte.
Make this sauce as sauce au suprême, in adding
a ravigote, as in the preceding article, and of the
green of spinage, which is made thus: -
juice by wringing the spinage in a cloth, put the
juice into a stewpan upon the corner of the stove ;
it rises like milk; when it does, put it through a gauze
search ; when ready to serve, add till the colour is
obtained ; put in lemon juice or vinegar, pass, and
serve it immediately, as it may become yellow.
Sauce Robert.
Cut in rounds or dice six large onions or more, if
necessary; put them into a stewpan with butter; set
them on a good fire, dredge, and brown them; moisten
;
express the


22
FRENCH COOKERY.
1
1
them with bouillon, and let them cook; add pepper
and salt; when finished, put in mustard, and serve.
Crawfish Sauce. Sauce au Beurre d'Ecrevisses.
Wash in different waters half an hundred of small
crawfish, put them into a stewpan, cover and boil
them in grand bouillon, but let it be in small quan-
tity; as soon as they begin to boil, toss them, that
those below may come up; when they are of a fine
red, take them from the fire, leave them ten minutes
covered ; drain, and let them cool ; take out the flesh
and the tails for garnishing; after taking out the feet,
throw away the belly part, wash the shells well, drain
them, and put them into a cool oven ; when dried,
beat them in a mortar ; when they are entirely
pounded, put in about the size of an egg of butter;
beat them again till the shells become a paste; if the
butter is not red enough, put in two or three small
roots of orchanet ; put it on a very slow fire for a
quarter of an hour; when it is very hot put a fine
search over a basin of fresh water, and pour the
butter through the search, which will shake in the
water ; gather it up, and put it on a dish, and use it
for sauce au beurre d'écrevisses); take three skimming
spoonfuls of reduced velouté, mix it well with the
butter; vannez the sauce well, and serve it.
Lobster Sauce. Sauce aux Homards.
Take a middling sized lobster, take out the flesh
and the spawn, cut the flesh in small dices; wash
the
spawn in such a manner as to leave no fibres;
put the flesh and spawn into a stewpan without any
moistening; cover them with a cover or paper that
the flesh be not too dry; wash the shells, take off the
small claws; the shells being well washed, let them
be dried in a stove ; beat them, and make a butter as
directed for the beurre d'écrevisses; and let them be
finished in the same way; when it is cooked, put it
in a white sauce, vannez it upon the fire without al.
lowing it to boil ; add to it, if liked, a little Cayenne
large pepper ; pour this sauce over the lobster,


SAUCES.
23
mix all well, and serve in a sauce-boat for turbot or
any other fish.
Sorrel Sauce. Sauce à la Purée d'Oseille.
Take two handsful of sorrel, pick, wash, and
blanch it, mince it very small, put it in a stewpan
with a bit of melted butter; when the sorrel is
enough done, rub it through a search; put it again
into a stewpan, with one or two spoonfuls of Es-
pagnole; leave it to cook three quarters of an hour ;
let it be often stirred; skim; season it with salt;
when it has the consistence of bouillie it is ready to
serve.
Onion Sauce. -Sauce à la Purée d'Oignons Blancs.
Mince twelve onions, put them in a stewpan with
a bit of butter; put the stewpan on a slow fire, that
they may not take
any
colour ; let them simmer ; stir
them often with a wooden spoon; when they yield
under it, put in two spoonfuls of velouté, and let
them remain cooking; when they are well re-
duced, rub them through a search, put them again
upon the fire; boil two pints of cream, and put it
into the purée; add nutmeg; when it has obtained
the degree of a good bouillon, serve.
Brown Onion Sauce. Sauce à la Purée d'Oignons
rousse dite Bretonne.
Take onions as above ; brown them upon a quick
fire; when they are of a fine colour, moisten them
with two spoonfuls of Espagnole ; cook it as the above,
put it through a search, and again upon the fire; but
instead of cream use Espagnole ; reduce it to the con-
sistence of bouillie; season it properly, and serve.
Purée Sauce. Sauce à la Purée de Pois.
Prepare this purée in the same manner as for the
potages; make what is necessary for the entrées, and
reduce them with a sufficient quantity of velouté, and
when it has attained its point, add the green of spin-
age to give the green colour; finish it with a bit of
butter and a little rasped sugar ; when it has the con-
sistence of thick bouillie, serve.


24
FRENCH COOKERY.
them, put
Sauce Pois verts pour Entrées et Entremets.
Take the necessary quantity of peas, wash and drain
them into a stewpan with a bit of butter, a
handful of parsley in branches, four or five young onions
cut in two; toss the peas ; when they wrinkle, put in
two ladles full of bouillon ; put in one or two slices of
ham ; let them boil, and drain aside, and leave them
to simmer ; drain, take out the ham, and break
them with a spoon or bruise them in a mortar ; rub
them through a search, wetting them with the bouillon
in which they were cooked; put the purée into a
stewpan with a piece of butter and a spoonful or two
of velouté, reduce it to the proper consistence of a
purée ; skim, season with salt, put in a little bit of
sugar, and finish it with a pat of butter ; if it is not
green enough, add a little green of spinage, as is
directed before.
Pease Soup.
Purée de Pois secs.
Do it in the same manner as the other potages, and
finish it as green pease.
Lentile Sauce ou Purée. Sauce à la Purée de Lentilles
à la Reine.
It is made as the purée of pease, except that Es-
pagnole must be used, and that they take more cook-
ing than the peas ; it ought to be a fine red colour ;
finish it with a bit of butter, and let it have the same
consistence as the purée of pease.
Purée de Gibier.
Take one or two roasted partridges and a leveret,
either separate or mixed together, take off all the
flesh, pick off the skin and nerves, hash it very fine,
beat it well in the mortar, add reduced Espagnole and
a little consommé; heat the whole on a slow fire
without boiling; when it is very hot, rub it through a
search; gather it carefully, put it into a stewpan,
heat it and put it in a bain-marie, and when ready to
serve, finish it with a bit of butter; if not strong
enough, put in a bit of glaze, and serve it with poached
eggs, fried bread, or croustades.


SAUCE.
25
Poor Man's Sauce. Sauce au pauvre Homme.
Take five or six shalots, hash them fine with a
little parsley; put them into a stew-pan with a little
bouillon juice or water, and a skimming-spoonful of
good vinegar, a little salt, and a little large pepper ;
simmer till enough and serve.
Veal Stock. — Glace ou Consommé réduite.
Take one or two knuckles of veal, and any rein-
nant or trimmings of veal; put them into a fresh
tinned pot with four or five carrots, two or three
onions, and a bunch of parsley and young onions ;
moisten it with good bouillon, or some good soup; care-
fully skim, and refresh it several times with fresh water;
put it upon the side of the stove, and when the meat
comes from the bone put the consommé through a
wrung wet cloth ; let it cool; clarify it, as is directed at
the article Culotte de beuf à la gelée ; reduce it to
the consistence of sauce; take care to stir it often, as
it is ready to stick and burn ; let the fire be mode-
rate that it may not turn black. It ought to be a
fine transparent yellow : put no salt, it does not re-
quire any. This consommé serves to give strength of
body to sauces and ragouts that may require it, and
to glaze meats; make a pencil of the tail feathers of
old fowls; wash it in warm water, squeeze and boil it
in the glaze, that it may not separate, which would
prevent it glazing properly.
Boiled Pickle. Marinade cuite.
Put the size of an egg of butter into a stew-pan,
one or two carrots in slices, the same of onions, a
bay leaf, the half of a clove of garlic, a little thyme
and basil, branches of parsley, two or three young
onions cut in halves; boil them upon a brisk fire;
when it begins to brown, moisten it with a glass of
white vinegar, and a little water; put in salt and large
pepper; let it be enough done ; put it through a
search, and use it.
Poéle.
Take four pounds of the kidney-fat of veal ; cut it
с


26
FRENCH COOKERY.
in pieces; a pound and a half of ham; a pound and
half of rasped bacon, or cut as the others; five or six
carrots cut also ; eight small whole onions, a large
bunch of parsley, and young onions stuck with three
cloves ; two bay leaves, some thyme, a little sweet
basil, a little mace, and three sliced lemons without
the peel or seeds; put all into a new tinned pot,
with a pound of good butter: set them upon a
slow fire, moisten it with bouillon or consommé : boil
and skim; let them simmer five or six hours; pass
the poêle through a hair search, and keep it for use.
Sauce à la Mirepoit.
This sauce is made like the preceding; it only dif-
fers in having for its moistening a quart of cham-
pagne, or any other good white wine instead of
bouillon.
Blanc.
Take a pound or a pound and half of fat of beef kid.
ney, cut it in dices; put it into a pot with carrots cut in
slices, a whole onion stuck with two cloves, one or
two bay leaves, a bunch of parsley and young onions,
clove of garlic, two sliced lemons, without the peel
or seeds; put the whole upon the fire without allow-
ing it to brown: when the fat is three fourths done;
shake in a spoonful of four; moisten it with water,
put in what is necessary of (eau de sel), which is made
thus; put into a stew-pan one or two handfuls of salt,
let it boil in the water, skim it, leave it to settle, draw
it off clear, and use it.
Petite Sauce à l'Aspic.
Put into a stew-pan a large glass of consommé ; in-
fuse in it a quantity of fine herbs such as are used for
ravigotes ; put it on hot cinders for a quarter of an
hour; it must not boil ; pass it through a cloth ; do not
press it too much; put in a spoonful of tarragon
vinegar, and a little large pepper.
Game Sauce. Sauce au Fumet de Gibier.
Put into a stew-pan four skimming spoonfuls of
consommé; take two or three carcasses of partridges,


SAUCE.
27
the bones of which must be broken, a large glass of
white wine, and let it simmer three quarters of an
hour; put it through a gauze search; let it come to
a glaze; put then in two or three skimming spoon-
fuls of Espagnole : let it boil ; skim, and use it.
Garlic Butter-Sauce au Beurre d'Ail.
Take two large heads of garlic; beat them with the
size of an egg of butter; when well beaten rub it
through a double hair search with a wooden spoon ;
gather it, and use, either with relouté or with re-
duced Espagnole.
Anchory Butter Sauce. —Sauce au Beurre d'Anchois.
Take three or four anchovies; wash them well;
rub them so that no scales may remain; take off the
Hesh, beat them with the size of an egg of butter,
gather it together; have four skimming spoonfuls of
Espagnole ; warm the sauce without allowing it to
poil; having put in the anchovy butter just at the
moment of serving, add the juice of one or two
lemons to freshen it; pass it through a search and
vannez it well; if too thick add a little consommé and
serve.
Sauce au Beurre de Provence.
Take five or six heads of garlic and beat them in
butter as in the foregoing article ; rub it through a
search, gathering it with care ; put it into a china
dish; put some fine olive oil over it; mix it with the
butter, and stirring it in by little and little, adding
the oil and a little salt; it ought to become like but-
ter, by the force of rubbing it round; when it is
ready for use.
Sauce à la Tartar.
Mince one or two shalots very fine, with a little
chertil and tarragon ; put it into an earthen vessel
with mustard, a glass of vinegar, salt and pepper ;
sprinkle it with oil, and stir it constantly ; if it gets
too thick, put in a little vinegar; if too salt, put in a
little more mustard and oil.
C 2


28
FRENCH COOKERY.
well;
Fennel Sauce. -Sauce au Fenouil.
Take some branches of green fennel; pick, blanch,
and mince it very fine, refresh and drain it; put into
a stew-pan a little velouté, the same quantity of butter
sauce; heat it and let it be vanned the moment it is
to be served ; put the fennel into the sauce; mix it
add salt and nutmeg.
If there is no nelauté, put butter into a stew-pan,
with four as is directed for sauce blanche or au beurre;
moisten with consommé or bouillon, and let it be more
done.
Tarragon Clear Sauce.Sauce Claire à l'Estragon, .
Take some grand aspic: if there is none, take some
other good stock, and clarify it as for the grand aspic;
put in a glass of tarragon vinegar ; cut some leaves or
tarragon in lozenges; boil them, and, when ready to
serve, put them into the aspic.
Another way.—Sauce à l'Estragon liée.
Put into a stew-pan two or three skimming spoon-
fuls of reduced velouté; if the sauce is to be white,
(reduced espagnole if brown,) put in a glass of tarragon
vinegar, and tarragon prepared, as in the preceding;
and finish the sauce with a pat of butter.
Sauce Mayonnaise.
Put into an earthen vessel three or four spoonfuls
of fine oil, and two of tarragon vinegar; add tarragon,
shalots, pimpernel, all minced very fine, salt, pep-
per, and two or three spoonfuls of gelée or aspic;
stir it well with a spoon; the sauce will thicken and
form a sort of butter; taste it, and if too salt or acid,
add a little oil; if it is wanted clear, break the gelée
with a knife, and mix it lightly with the seasoning.
Fillets of fowl, game, fish, or any other meat, may be
sent to table in a clear mayonnaise, garnished with
jelly or any other garnishing.
Roux.
Put into a sauce-pan a pound of butter or more;
melt it without letting it brown ; pass through a


SAUCE
search some of the finest and whitest four; put
in as much as the butter will take; make only whai
will be required: this roux ought to have the consist-
Eace Dearly of a firm paste ; put it first upon a quick
fire ; let it be constantly stirred; when it becomes
very white, and begins to thicken, put it upon hot
cinders under a lighted stove, in such a manner as the
red cinders may fall upon the cover ; stir etery seven
minutes until it is a fine rout; by this manner of doing
it it will not have that acidity that roue generally has.
Rouz Blanc.
Melt some of the finest butter over a slow fire, and
put in suficient quantity of flour as directed above,
and let care be taken that it takes do colour ; stir it
bali an bour, and use it for velouté.
Batter for Frying. — Pite à Frire.
Search balf a pound of flour; put it into a vessel
with two spoonfals of oil, salt, and two or three yoiks
of eggs; moisten it with beer, in such quantity that
the paste does not cord; work till it is of the consiste
ence of boužllie ; whip one or two whites of eggs; work
them lightly into the paste; make it two or three hours
before it is wanted. Remember the lightness of the
paste depends upon the whipping of the whites of the
eges; the paste may be made with butter instead of
oil, and with bot water instead of beer, in adding a
glass of white wide.
Fritters.-Fritures.
Experience has taught that the fat taken from the
stock pot makes the best fritters: when there is not
any of this, its place is supplied by the kidney fat of
beef, hashed very fine or cut in dices, which must be
melted with care; these fats are much better than the
sain-duus or hogs' lard, which softens the paste, and
still more when they are beated to swell and froth,
making it fy into the fire, which is dangerous. Oil
has Dearly the same efect, and of course not less at-
tended with danger, but it does not soften. Melted
fat has nearly the same fault, and is very expensive;
с 3


30
FRENCH COOKERY.
it may be concluded that for appearance, goodness,
and economy, the top of the pot is the best, and next
to it is that which is made of beef suet.
Beef Suet.
Manner of preparing it.
When there has been accumulated a sufficient
quantity of that fat, render and clarify it ; boil it in
the same way as bouillon is done; skim it ; put in some
slices of onions and some pieces of bread; let it sim-
mer on the side of the stove or before the fire four or
five hours; take out the bread and onions and draw it
off clear ; it ought to be very limpid. When it is to
be used, let a sufficient quantity be put into the frying
pan, and heat it: to know if it is sufficiently hot, let
the finger be dipt into water and sprinkle it upon the
friture; if it hisses and rejects the water, it is then
sufficiently hot. If it is fish that is to be fried, dip in
the tip of the tail, holding it by the head ; if on pull-
ing it out immediately it hardens, put in the fish,
taking care to turn it.
Sauces aux Hatelettes.
Mince a little parsley, young onions and mushrooms ;
put them into a stew-pan with a bit of butter; put
them upon the fire ; flour, and moisten them with a
spoonful of consommé ; season with salt, pepper, nut-
meg, and half a bay leaf; reduce it over a brisk fire,
taking care to stir it till it has acquired its proper de-
gree, which is when it is come to the consistence of
clear bouillie; take out the bay leaf, and thicken it
with two yolks of eggs, a little bouillon, and serve.
This sauce may be served over almost every thing.
Another Sauce aux Hatelettes.
Put a ladleful of welouté into a saucepan, with a
little parsley, a few young onions or shalots, and
twice as many mushrooms finely minced ; stir the
sauce and reduce it to a clear bouillon; thicken and
season it as above ; if liked, nutmeg, and serve,
Bread Sauce. -Brède Sauce.
Take the crumb of a stale roll; put it into milk;


SAUCE
31
let it simmer three quarters of an hour, till it has the
consistence of a thick bouillie ; add twenty grains of
black pepper and salt ; finish it with the size of a
walnut of good butter; serve it in a sauce boat along
with woodcock or partridge.
Truffle Sauce.Sauce aux Truffes à la Saint Cloud,
ou en Petit Deuil.
Cut a truffle in small dices; do them in butter,
moisten them with four skimming spoonfuls of velouté,
and two of consommé; reduce it; skim, and finish it
with a pat of butter.
Sauce à la Pluche Verte.
Put into a stew-pan four spoonfuls of reduced
velouté; let it boil; skim it at the moment of serving;
put into it some blanched parsley, pepper, salt, and
a pat of butter, with the juice of a lemon ; observe that
it ought to taste of the acid.
Court-Bouillon.
Put into a stew-pan a bit of butter, sliced onions,
and carrots, two bruised bay leaves, three cloves, two
cloves of garlic, thyme, sweet basil, and a little
ginger ; do these ingredients over a quickish fire, to
give them a little colour ; let them stick a little to the
bottom of the stew-pan, moisten with two or three
bottles of wine ; if the court-bouillon is gras put in
some good stock; let it boil and use it.
Ketchup.
Take a dozen of handfuls of mushrooms, pick,
wash, and mince them very fine; put them into a new
earthen dish, and make a layer of mushrooms of about
half an inch, sprinkle fine salt over, continuing to do
so till they are finished.
Tie a cloth over, and lay on a cover ; leave them
five or six days to draw out the juice; draw it off, and
wring the mushrooms in a cloth ; put the juice in a
stew-pan, and reduce it; put in two bay leaves ; dress
a pot as for making glaze (see article glaze); when it
is ready, pass it through a search; skim it, and mix
it with the mushroom juice; it may be made by
C 4


32
FRENCH COOKERY.
adding glaze; put in four or five pounded anchovies,
and a tea-spoonful of Cayenne pepper; reduce the
whole till half glaze; take out the bay leaves, and let
it cool; put it into a new bottle, well corked, to serve
with fish.
La Ducelle.
Mince mushrooms, parsley, young onions or shalots,
the same quantity of each; put some butter into a
stew-pan with as much rasped bacon; put them upon
the fire; season with salt, pepper, fine spiceries,
a little grated nutmeg, and a bay leaf; moisten with a
spoonful of espagnole or velouté ; let it simmer, taking
care to stir it: when sufficiently done, finish it with a
thickening of yolks of eggs well beaten, which must
not boil; the juice of a lemon is not necessary, but
may be added; put it into a dish, and use it for every
thing that is put in papilottes.
Sauce au Vert Pré.
Put into a saucepan five spoonfuls of velouté, and
two of consommé; reduce them; when ready to serve,
add a little pat of butter, and about the size of a wal-
nut of the green of spinage; put the sauce on the
fire without working it, and serve.
Orange Sauce. —Sauce à l'Orange.
Take three oranges, cut them in two, and squeeze
the juice through a search, into an earthen or china
bason; free the zests (the fine outer rind that contains
the essential oil) of the oranges as much as possi-
ble from the inner skin, and cut them in thin slices ;
blanch them ; drain and put them into strong beef
juice, with a little large pepper; put it upon the side
of the stove, put the orange juice in, and when served
let the zests be uppermost.
Salt water. Eau de Sel.
Fill a small kettle with water, and put in a sufficient
quantity of salt, with some whole young, onions,
branches of parsley, one or two heads of garlic, zests
of carrots, thyme, bay leaves, sweet basil, and two
cloves ; let it boil three quarters of an hour, skim and
1


GARNISHINGS.
33
take it off the fire, cover it with a cloth, leave it half
or three quarters of an hour to settle; pass it through
a gauze search; it is then ready for cooking fish, or
any thing that requires salt water.
Thickened Butter. — Beurre Lié.
Put the yolks of two eggs into a stew-pan; melt a
quarter of a pound of butter without browning it;
break the eggs with a wooden spoon; put the butter
by degrees to the eggs; set it upon a slow fire; add
lemon juice, and use it for panures.
VERJUICE, and the making of it that it may keep.
Take verjuice grape before it is ripe, take out the
seed and stalks, put them into a mortar, and beat them
with a little salt; express the juice by a press or by
wringing through a cloth ; have a fustian bag or two
if the quantity require it; wet it and shake flour upon
the shaggy side, hang it up in such a way as it will be
open; pour the verjuice through several times, till
perfectly limpid: it must be put in very clean or new
bottles, which ought to be prepared, as announced in
the article Wine, by sulphuring them; cork it well
and set it on its end in the cellar; when it is used, let
the little pellicle be taken off that gathers upon the
top of the bottle: this verjuice may be used, instead
of lemon, for lemonade, punch, and otherwise, in add-
ing a little spirit or zest of lemon. This verjuice is
excellent against the consequences of falls, a glassful
ought to be taken when the accident happens: if used
for punch or drinking in any way, no salt should be
put in in making, but for all culinary uses it is better.
GARNISHING FOR DISHES.
Garnitures. - Bords de Plats.
Take firm stale bread, cut the crumb in slices of
the thickness of the blade of a knife; cut those
slices into any form; heat some oil in a stew-pan,
and put in the bread; make both white and brown;
when they are very dry, drain them, make white
• Panures. Every thing that is rolled in or strewed with
crumbs of bread.
C 5


34
FRENCH COOKERY.
paper cases, and put them up separately, according
to their form and colour ; when they are wanted to
garnish dishes, pierce the end of an egg, let a little
of the white out, and beat it with the blade of a
knife; mix a little flour ; heat your dish a little; dip
one side of the form into the beaten paste; in this
manner continue till the border is finished: care
must be taken not to heat the dish too much.
Cocks' Combs. Crétes de Cogs.
Prepare the combs, and cut off the points, put them
to blanch three-quarters of an hour in warm water, on
the side of the stove, and shake them often; have
some hotter water ready ; put in the combs in a new
cloth, with a little great salt : hold the four corners
of the cloth, and plunge them into almost boiling
water, rub them with the hand, open the cloth to see
if the skin comes off; if it does not, they must be
plunged again into a water still hotter : this operation
requires much attention: rub the skin off with the
hands, then put them into fresh water to degorge;cook
them in a blanc (see that article), and put theni with the
other garnishings to be ready when they are wanted.
Cocks' Kidneys. — Garnitures de Rognons de Cogs,
Are done exactly as the foregoing article, and put
aside like the others for use.
Fat Livers. Foies Gras et Demi-gras pour Garni-
tures.
Take what number of fat livers is necessary, and
take off the galls carefully, leave no part that has
been touched by them, taking care not to break
them ; steep and blanch them lightly; cook them with
slices of bacon ; moisten them with good mirepoix:
when enough, put them aside for garnishing.
Garnishing of Carrots-Carottes pour Garnitures. .
Take what carrots may be necessary; choose them
tender and of a fine colour; cut them into any shape,
if in a hurry, with an apple-scoop; take care not to
use the hearts; blanch these carrots, and do them in


GARNISHINGS
35
a little bouillon or consommé ; put in a little bit of
sugar, and let them fall into a glaze ; take care they
do not stick : they are then ready to be put amongst
the garnitures.
Turnips. — Navets pour Garnitures.
Take firm sweet-tasted turnips; cut them into shapes
as in the preceding article ; cook them in the same
manner, if they are not to be browned; in that case,
don't blanch them, but brown them in butter or in
sain-dour (hogs'lard), and put them aside for garnishing.
Mushrooms.-Champignons.
See article de Ragouts de Champignons, Morilles, et
Mousserons.
Small Onions for Garnishing Petits Oignons pour
Garritures.
Take small onions as many as are necessary ; cut the
tops and tails off; blanch them, take off the skin, and
make them of an equal size; cook them in consommé
or bouillon ; put in a little bit of sugar, let them fall
almost to a glaze ; if they are to be brown, brown
them in butter, instead of blanching them.
Lettuce for Garnishing.---Laitues pour Garnitures.
Take what lettuces are necessary; clean them, do
not cut the roots too near; plunge them several
times in water, one after another, that if there are
any worms they may fall out; blanch and refresh
them; tie them three and three together ; cover a
stew-pan with slices of bacon; put them in; season
chem with salt, large pepper, a bay-leaf, a clove of
garlic, an onion, and a slice of ham; moisten them
with consommé, bouillon, or any good stock; cover
them with slices of bacon, and a round of paper, cut to
fit the stew-pan; let them boil, and put them to simmer,
with fire above and below; when cooked, leave them
in the seasoning, and set them aside for garnishing.
Green of Spinage.-Vert d'Epinards.*
Take a sufficient quantity of spinage ; pick, wash,
This is the best for colouring entremets, and that of parsley
for entreés.
C 6


36
FRENCH COOKERY,
and drain them ; put them into a mortar ; beat them;
wring out the juice through a coarse cloth ; put the
juice into a frying-pan or the cover of a pot; put
it on hot cinders that it may only shake; and when it
thickens put it through a gauze search; it is then ready
for colouring soups, sauces, jellies, omelets,
&c.
Artichoke Bottoms. -Culs d' Artichauts Tournés.
Take dozen of tender artichokes; be careful that
they are not thready, which will be known by snapping
a bit off the stalk: slip off the leaves in such a
manner as to leave the bottom whole, with a few of
the tenderest leaves on the top; then pare the arti-
chokes nicely with a knife, cutting off the points of
the leaves that remain; rub the artichokes with the
half of a lemon, and throw them into fresh water,
with the juice of one or two lemons; put them into
boiling water, and let a plate be put in to keep them
down; let them boil; when the choke comes out easily,
they are enough ; take it out, and throw them into fresh
water; drain, and put them into a blanc ; when they are
enough, take them out; put them into a dish, and
pour
the blanc over them through a gauze search ; let them
be used for garnishing, either whole or in quarters.
To make Cayenne Pepper. — Poivre de Cayenne.
Take half a pound of long pepper, let it be chosen
thick-skinned, and of a fine red; dry it well in the
shade; separate and take off the stalks ; put them into
a mortar, and beat them with an iron pestle ; let
care be taken that the mortar is covered well with a
skin, as it is dangerous if it get into the eyes.
Onions.
Oignons Glacés.
(See Boeuf, or Bouillé Ordinaire.)
Cucumbers. Concombres au Blanc.
Let the points and ends of three cucumbers be
taken off; if they are bitter, take others; peel them,
and cut them in quarters ; take out the seeds, and let
them be cut in the form of oyster-shells, making them
equal; blanch them in water with a little salt, and
cook them in a blanc; when sufficiently done, drain
them, and put them aside for use.


RAGOUTS.
37
Browned Cucumbers.-Concombres au Brun.
Let them be prepared as before, and then be put
into an earthen dish with water, salt, and white vine-
gar; let them steep an hour; wring them in a
cloth, and fry them of a light fine brown, in rasped
lard; drain, and use them in brown ragouts.
Brown and White Onions.-- Pluche d'Oignons,
Blanche et Rousse.
Let a dozen of large onions be taken; peel, and
cut them in two, taking out the hearts; cut them in
rounds ; put a bit of butter into a stew-pan; drain the
onions, if they are to be cooked white ; do them
upon hot cinders; shake them often ; when three-
fourths done, dust them with a little flour ; finish as
(au roux blanc ;) moisten them with consommé or
bouillon; reduce to the consistence of a strong bouillie;
season with salt, pepper, and a little nutmeg; they are
then ready for use.
Another
way. -Pluche d'Oignons au Rour.
Prepare onions as in the foregoing receipt, put them
into a stew-pan with a piece of butter; fry them of a
fine colour; dredge, and shake them upon the fire,
that the four may be browned ; moisten with beef
juice; put in salt and pepper, and make it into the
consistence of sauce; taste if good, and serve.
RAGOUTS.
Salpicons.
Salpiçons are made of all sorts of meats and veget-
ables, such as truffles, artichoke bottoms, and mush-
rooms; but every thing must be put in in equal propor-
tions ; it is necessary to have them all cooked apart, so
that they may be properly
done, as each requires.
Salpicon Ordinaire,
Is made of veal sweetbreads, fat or half fat livers,
ham, mushrooms, truffles, if in season ; cut the whole
in small dices, of an equal size : when ready to serve,
put them in espagnole much reduced ; put it on the
fire; shake it, without letting it boil, and serve.
It may also be made with quenelles or godiveau,
the white of roasted fowls, cocks' combs, and arti-


38
FRENCH COOKERY.
choke bottoms, whatever is in season, and the larder
ought to regulate the cook.
Ragoût of Sweetbreads. - Ragoût de Ris de Veau.
Soak two sweetbreads in fresh water, to take out
the blood ; blanch them; put into a stew-pan one or
two carrots, two onions, some parings of veal, with a
bunch of seasoned parsley, and young onions; put
in the sweetbreads; cover them with a thin slice of
bacon; moisten with one or two spoonfuls of bouillon ;
do not let them swim; cover with buttered paper;
let them boil ; put them under the furnace, with fire
over and under; let care be taken that they may not
be over done ; when they are enough, take them out
of their seasoning ; if there is no sauce, let what they
were cooked in be run through a search ; but should
they be for a blanc, mix a pat of butter in a little
flour, and put it with some mushrooms into the sauce;
let them cook; skim, and add artichoke bottoms;
the sweetbreads being cut in slices, put them in, but
care must be taken that they do not boil: when ready
to serve, thicken it with the yolks of one or two eggs,
some fine minced parsley, lemon, or verjuice, in the
ordinary manner, adding a little butter to make it
soft, and serve.*
Ragoût of Cocks' Combs and Kidneys.-Ragout de
Crétes et de Rognons de Coqs en Financière.
Let the combs be dressed and cooked in blanc;
drain them, (see Crêtes de Coqs, article des Garnitures),
also the kidneys; let there be put a sufficient quantity
of reduced velouté, into a stew-pan, if the ragoût is
to be au blanc; but if roux, use reduced
espagnole,
adding a little consommé if the sauce should be too
thick; let the combs simmer a quarter of an hour;
put them in with the kidneys an instant before serving,
and some mushrooms that have been cooked, arti-
choke bottoms, or truffles ; if the ragoût is au blanc,
* Observe, that lemon or any acid diminishes the richness
of sauces, and should never be used profusedly in high-seasoned
dishes.


RAGOUTS.
39
thicken as in the preceding article, and if au roux,
follow the directions also in that article.
Soft Roes of Carp-Ragoût de Laitance de Carpes.
Let two dozen of the roes of carps be taken; take
out the alimentary canals, and put them into fresh
water, to degorge for half an hour ; change the water,
and let them be put on the side of a stove ; leave them
till they become white; let another stew-pan be ready
with boiling water ; throw them in with a little salt';
let them boil; take them off the fire; have in a stew-
pan four skimming-spoonfuls of Italienne blanche, or
rousse); put in the roes ; let them boil once or twice;
skim them, and finish with lemon juice; serve them
as ragoût de laitances, either in a silver stew.dish, a
case, or in a vol-au-vent.
A Ragout of Carp Tongues.-Ragoût de Langues de
Carpes.
Let a hundred tongues be taken ; and proceed and
finish as in the foregoing receipt.
Truffles.--Ragoût aux Truffes.
Take a pound or two, as may be necessary ; choose
them if possible, round, heavy, and fine skinned;
press them with the hand; they ought to resist, that
they may neither be soft nor gluey ; if they smell of
cheese they are not good; when thus picked, throw
them into fresh water, and such as swim are not so
good as those that remain at the bottom; brush them
to take off all the earth, and throw them again into
fresh water, and not into hot, that they may not lose
their flavour; brush them again and with a knife clear
all the specks of the earth and the little wooden
skewers by which they are often put together by the
sellers to make them look better; wash them a third
time, and more if the water still appears turbid; take
them out and peel off the skin as thin as possible ;
the
Anest are generally kept to serve in a napkin, or en
froústade, the others are cut in slices or in dices, to
make truffle sauce, which will be found in the follow-
ing article.


40
FRENCH COOKERY.
the sauce ;
Ragoût of Truffle. -Ragoût aux Truffes et à l'Es-
pagnole.
Take the truffles that may be necessary ; cut them
in slices or dices; put them in a stew-pan on a slow
fire with a bit of butter ; let them sweat ; moisten with
half a glass of wine and two spoonfuls of reduced
espagnole ; let them cook upon a slow fire; skim the
sauce, and finish with a little bit of butter; let care be
taken to mix it well whether on the fire or in shaking;
put no lemon juice, as it would take off the softness of
the sauce.
Another.-Ragoût aux Truffes a l'Italienne.
Prepare the truffles as in the above receipt ; sweat
them in butter; put in hashed shalots and parsley,
salt and pepper; moisten with half a glass of white
wine and two skimming-spoonfuls of espagnole; boil
skim it, and finish with a little good oil of
olives.
Another way.—Ragoût aux Truffes à la Piedmontaise.
Dress the truffles as directed before, but instead of
butter, use olive oil, with a little bruised garlic; put
them upon hot cinders that they may only shake;
after a quarter of an hour, season with fine salt and
pepper; force them a little with lemon juice, and
Another
way. Ragoût à la Peregueur. .
Cut the truffles in small dices; do them in butter,
put in two or three large spoonfuls of italienne rousse
or espagnole, with a little white wine, and finish it
with half a pat of butter : this sauce serves for par-
tridges, fowls, chickens, and turkeys stuffed with
truffles.
Mushrooms.Observations sur les Champignons.
The surest manner to discover bad ones, is to cut
them with a piece of metal: when they have been so
cut and the leafy substance extracted, let them lie an
hour, and if they remain unchanged in their colour,
being white, they may be used ; peel off the skin; lay
them in oil or vinegar, making many incisions in them.
serve.


RAGOUTS
41
Ragoût of Mushrooms.-Ragoût aux Champignons.
Let two handfuls of mushrooms be picked and
cleaned; take out the stalks; peel and pare them nicely
with a knife, as also the stalks ; throw them as they
are done into a stew-pan with a little water and
lemon juice to whiten them ; toss them to prevent
their getting red; put in a little salt, and a bit of
butter; set them on a brisk fire and toss them; then
let them simmer slowly on the side of the stove till
enough, which will be when they have given their
juice.
If to be a brown ragoût, put in a slice of ham with
parsley and young onions; moisten with three large
spoonfuls of espagnole; take out the ham and sweet
herbs when the ragoût is ready to be reduced ; skim
and finish with a little bit of butter; if there is no
espagnole, let there be made upon a slow fire a brown
rour of a fine colour; moisten with a ladleful of
bouillon; put in a little more ham, some parings of
veal, a bunch of sweet herbs, a carrot, and an onion;
cook the whole ; when enough pass it through a search,
and use it in place of espagnole.
White Ragoût of Mushrooms. Ragoût de Cham-
pignons au Blanc.
It is to be done as the foregoing, except that
delouté is used instead of espagnole, and is thickened
with yolks of eggs, moistened with milk or cream, and
a bit of butter; if there is no velouté, let the juice of
the mushrooms be taken, and dredge in a little flour;
run it through a search; afterwards mix it by little and
little with the juice, in adding a ladleful of bouillon
without colour, a slice of ham, a bunch of parsley
and
young onions ; simmer, skim, and reduce it to a
proper degree; thicken it as directed above, and let
it be finished in the same manner.
Ragoût de Morilles.
The morilles are of the same family, and are cooked
in the same manner ; prepare them as above, clearing
them perfectly from the earth, and soak them in warm


42
FRENCH COOKERY
water; take them out and blanch them; drain them
and put them in a stew-pan with a bit of butter; pass
them over the fire and add a roux sauce, if they are
au roux, and white if they are au blanc, and finish as
above
Ragoût de Mousserons.
They are of the same family and grow under the
moss; they are cooked in the same manner as the
morilles.
Ragoût of Endive. -Ragoût de Chicorée au Brun.
Let twelve heads of endive be taken ; wash them in
several waters, plunging them often that no worms
may remain ; drain them ; blanch them in a great
quantity of salt and water ; when they break easily
with the finger they are enough ; take them out with
a skimmer; put them into a pail of fresh water; drain
and press them with the hands that no water may re-
main; take away the roots and the large ribs; hash it;
put it into a stew-pan with a bit of butter ; set it on a
slow fire for a quarter of an hour to dry ; moisten it
with two spoonfuls of espagnole, and one of consommé;
let it cook at least an hour in stirring continually with
a wooden spoon, that it may neither stick nor burn;
when sufficiently cooked, add a little salt, and serve.
Another Way. · Autre Manière.
Proceed as in the foregoing receipt, only use a
smaller quantity of velouté than of Espagnole ; this
ragoût is finished with cream or good milk, which must
be added by little and little, with nutmeg and salt.
Another Way.
To make it au blanc without velouté * pass it in but-
ter: when dried enough, dress it lightly; moisten it
with bouillon, and put in a little salt; cook, and re-
duce it; add cream or good milk and a little nutmeg.
Way to have Endive when out of season. Manière
de remplacer la Chicorée dans la saison ou elle manque.
Take the heart of one or two cabbages; if they
smell of musk take others ; cut them in quarters ; take
* To fry it white or brown.


RAGOUTS.
49
off all the coarse ribs ; mince them very fine ; throw
them into water; wash them well and drain them;
blanch them in the same manner as the endive, but
let them have more time ; refresh them; press out the
water and hash them, and accommodate them as the
endive
Ragout of Spinage. — Ragout d'Epinards.
Pick off the stalks and the decayed leaves from the
spinage ; wash them several times in a quantity of
water ; blanch them on a quick boil, in a great deal
of water and sufficient salt; stir and skim them; take
care the water does not boil over, that the ashes may
not rise over the spinage; when they break easily
under the fingers, they are enough done ; take them
off the fire and throw them into a drainer, and imme.
diately into a great quantity of fresh water ; leave
them there a quarter of an hour; put them again
into the drainer; gather them in a ball without press-
ing them too much; hash what is necessary; put them
into a stew-pan with a sufficient quantity of butter
to nourish them; set them upon a quick fire: stir
them with a wooden spoon; when they are dry enough
and of a fine green, moisten with espagnole ; if for an
entrée, reduce them to the consistence of a strong
bouillie; add a little nutmeg, and finish with a bit of
butter; dish and serve.
Ragout of French Beans. - Ragout de Haricots
à la Bretonne.
Pick and clean a pint of haricots dry or green, and
put them into a pot with cold water, and a bit of
butter without salt;
while they are doing, throw in from
time to time a little cold water, which will prevent
them from boiling and soften them; when cooked,
drain them; put them into a stew-pan, with a bit of
butter, and a spoonful or two of purée of onions au
brun and espagnole ; season with large pepper and
salt; toss them often and finish with butter.
Ragout of French Beans in juice. -Ragout de Hari.
cots au jus.
Put into a stew-pan cooked haricots, with a bit of


44
FRENCH COOKERY.
butter two spoonfuls of espagnole, one of beef-juice,
salt and large pepper, and finish with butter.
Garnishing of Celery. - Garnitures de Céleri ou
Entremets.
Let twenty heads of celery be cleaned and dressed ;
let their roots be nicely pared; wash them in several
waters ; blanch, refresh, drain, and tie them in five
bunches ; cover a stewpan with slices of bacon ; put
in the celery with an onion stuck with a clove, a car-
rot cut in quarters, a bunch of parsley and young
onions, a little salt; moisten with a little of the top
pot ; cover it with slices of bacon and a round of
paper ; let it boil, and leave it to simmer with fire
under and over ; put it round what it is to be served
with, such as veal-kidneys, fowls, or gigots, &c., and
sauce it with espagnole or clear juice.
White Ragoût of Cucumbers-Ragoût Blanc aux
Concombres.
Prepare cucumbers as is directed for garnishing;
put into a stewpan three large spoonfuls of velouté,
with cucumbers and a little salt ; finish with a bit of
butter, a little nutmeg, and serve.
Brown Ragoût of Cucumbers. - Ragoût Brun aux
Concombres.
Prepare the cucumbers as above; put into a stew-
pan four spoonfuls of reduced espagnole, grasse or
maigre ; put in the cucumbers ; skim and reduce; add
the size of a large nut of glaze or portable soup;
finish with a little bit of butter and serve.
Ragoût à la Chipolata.
Put into a stewpan two ladlefuls of reduced es-
pagnole, half a bottle of Madeira, mushrooms, small
onions cooked au blanc, chesnuts prepared, small
sausages à la chipolata, which must be cooked in
bouillon with truffles cut in quarters ; salt and pepper;
reduce and serve.
Ragoût of Peas and Bacon.
Ragoût de Pois au
Lard.
Take half a pound of lard or ham, or as much as
may be necessary ; cut it in large dices and blanch it ;


RAGOUTS.
put some butter into a stew-pan, and put in the bacon
or ham, and brown it of a fine colour; have some
fine young pease ; put them into a vessel with the
size of a walnut of butter, and let them be worked
in the hands; pour fresh water over them; leave
them in it a few minutes to soften; drain, and put
them into a stew.pan to sweat ; when they become
very green, moisten them with a ladleful of espagnole;
add the prepared ham or lard, a bunch of parsley
and young onions ; let them boil; set them on the
side of the furnaces to simmer and reduce; the ragout
being sufficiently done, skim, and salt it: if it should
be too salt, put in a little sugar and serve.
Ragout of Olites. -Ragout d Olites.
Take a quart of very green new olives ; take out the
stones, put them in fresh water ; when they are to be
served blanch them, and put into another stew-pan
three large spoonfuls of espagnole reduced; boil and
skim it; when ready to serve, put the olives into the
sauce; add half a pat of butter, shake and serve.
Ragouts de Navets en Haricots Vierges
*See article Ailerons de Poulardes en Haricots
Vierge.)
Pagoút aur Points d' Asperges.
(See Article Tendons d Agneaus.)
Ragouts of small Roots-Ragouts de petites Racines
Prepare small roots as is directed in the article for
garnitures, &c.: let them reduce to glaze; moisten
them with two or three spoonfuls of espagnole and
one of corsommé ; let them cook; skim, and let them
reduce ; finish with about the size of a nut of butter,
and a little sugar; toss, and if properly seasoned,
serve. If there is no espagnole, make a little roua
and moisten with bouillon or consommé; add a bunch
of sweet berbs; cook and strain the sauce; add the
roots ; let them simmer ; reduce and finish as above.
Ragout of small Onions.- Ragout aux petits Oignons.
Follow exactly the abovereceipt.


46
FRENCH COOKERY
Ragoût à la Macédoine.
(See Macédoine blanche ou rousse, at the article
Entremets.
Ragoût à la Godiveau.
Put enough of espagnole into a stew-pan for the
ragoût, with a sufficient quantity of andouillettes de
godiveau
; add prepared mushrooms, as for garnish-
ing, and artichoke bottoms cut in four or eight
pieces; finish the cooking ; skim and reduce it; put
in the juice of a lemon or a little verjuice, and serve,
either to garnish a tart or a hot pâté
, or any other
ragoût; slices of sweetbread may be added, craw-
fish, fowls' livers, or pinions to augment it.
BEEF,
Rump of Beef.—Bauf Bouilli Ordinaire.
Take a rump or part of a rump of beef; bone it,
and bind it properly; put it into a pot as for the
grand bouillon ; when cooked, serve it with greer
parsley in branches, or sauce hachée or garnish with
onions and roots or other vegetables : if it is served
with glazed onions, take a sufficient quantity rather
large; after peeling and dressing them nicely, take off
the first skin carefully, not to hurt the next; butter
very well the bottom of a saucepan; strew a little
sugar over it ; put in the onions with the heads down
that they may be covered ; moisten them with a little
bouillon, that it may only cover half of the onions ;
put them upon a good fire ; when they boil, draw them
to the side ; cook them and put fire over; attend
to them, and when nearly done, put them on a brisk
fire; take off the cover and reduce them, that they
may fall to a glaze of a fine colour ; before arranging
them round the beef by means of a fork, roll them in
the glaze ; put a little bouillon into the stewpan to
detach the glaze, which must be poured over the beef
after the skin has been taken off, and that the fat has
been arranged upon such places where there is none;
serve,


BEEF.
47
Beef and Cabbage. Beuf garnie de Chour.
Let two or three cabbages be taken ; wash, blanch,
and refresh them; tie them and put them into a pot;
if there is a braise or some good stock, use it; add
carrots, two or three onions, one stuck with three
cloves, a clove of garlic, a bay-leaf and thyme ; and
that the cabbage may be well nourished, put in a
little of the top pot; let them simmer three quar-
ters of an hour; drain them upon a cloth; press
them to take out the fat, in giving them the form of
a roll of paste; put them round the beef, and pour
over the whole a reduced espagnole.
Piece de Boeuf au Pain Perdue.
If there is not a rump of beef take a loin ; take
off the under fillet, it will serve for an entrée ; bone the
loin; roll and tie it, and proceed as for beuf à l'or-
dinaire ; when done, cut some crumb of bread into
shapes ; beat three eggs as for an omelet ; season with
salt and a little cream ; dip in the bread, and fry it a
fine brown carefully on both sides : drain it upon a
cloth ; drain and untie the beef; dress it upon the
dish, and garnish it with the bread; and pour either
an espagnole or a sauce hachée over it.
Scarlet Beef. — Bæuf à l Ecarlate.
Take the whole or a part of a rump of beef; hang
it for three or four days; bone and lard it with large
lard ; season the lard with minced parsley and young
onions, pepper, and fine spiceries ; rub it with fine
alt pounded and sifted, which an ounce or two of
purified saltpetre has been mixed; put the beef in
an earthen vessel with a handful of juniper berries,
thyme, basil, some young onions, two cloves of
garlic, three or four cloves, and some slices of
onion; cover it; putting some folds of cloth be-
tween to prevent the air from penetrating ; leave it
eight days; then turn and cover it with the same
care, and leave it three or four days more; take it
out and drain it; put it in a pot with water seasoned
with carrots, onions, and a bunch of sweet herbs; let
it boil ; and, when it boils strong, put in the beef


48
FRENCH COOKERY.
wrapt in a cloth, which must be bound with pack.
thread ; let it cook four hours, constantly ; take it up
and put it into a vessel of the same form; pour over
it the seasoning in which it was cooked; when cold
serve it on a napkin as a ham garnished with parsley:
if served hot, dish it in a strong beef stock.
Rump of Beef in Jelly. Culotte de Boeuf à la Gelée
ou à la Royale.
Take a rump or part of its bone, and lard it
with great lard, as in the foregoing article; season
it in the same manner ; wrap and tie it in a cloth;
put it in a braising pot, after it has been dressed
with the bones, five or six carrots, four onions,
two cloves of garlic, a bunch of parsley and young
onions, two bay-leaves, a knuckle of veal, a glass
of white wine, salt, and two or three ladlefuls of
bouillon ; make it boil upon a good fire; cover it
with three covers of buttered white paper; cover it
and let it cook slowly, with fire under and over it
nearly four hours; when done, take it off; let it cool
in the cloth ; run the juice through a cloth, which must
be previously wetted, that the fat may not go
through; let it cool; beat with a fork two whites of
eggs with a little water ; put it into the juice still
warm ; shake it ; put it upon the fire till it is near
boiling; take it off, and lay over it some hot cinders ;
leave it a quarter of an hour ; when the sauce becomes
limpid, run it through a wet cloth : let it cool, to
know if too thick or too thin ; if it should happen to
be too thick, put in a little bouillon; if too thin, put
it again upon the fire, adding a knuckle of veal; and
clarify as before.
If not enough ambred, put in a little beef-juice;
but if it is to be decorated with different colours,
such as red and green, use a few drops of the infusion
of cochineal for the former, and for the green the
juice of spinage ; be equally careful to put it in by
drops, as it is more beautiful when the colours are


BEEF.
49
light. Run the different jellies into dishes that they
may be cut out the thickness of an inch at least, of
different shapes, that it may be elegantly garnished;
unbind the beef and take off the outer skin nicely;
pare, and dish it; garnish it with the jellies, and make
a complete circle round the dish, disposing the dif-
ferent colours with taste, and serve.
Round of Beef:
-Rosbif, Rond-bif, ou Corne-bif.
Take a round of beef, of such a size as is necessary,
and as fat as possible ; dry and pound three or four
pounds of salt, put it through a search, and mix fine
spices and aromatics in powder ; rub the beef ex-
tremely well all over with it, and put it into an earth-
en vessel as near as possible of the shape and size,
and strew over it all the seasoning that has been left;
cover it closely 'over with some folds of cloth, and
tie it round the vessel to exclude the air ; put it in
a cool place; leave it four days, then turn it, which
must be continued for eight or ten days; when it is to
be used take it out, drain it, and tie it into a proper
shape ; put upon the fire a round pot that will contain
the beef easily; put in water, carrots, turnips, onions,
four cloves, four bay leaves ; let them boil, and put in
the beef; let it be put upon a turbot drainer, that it
may be taken out without breaking or piercing it ; let.
it boil three hours, dish it and garnish it with the vege
tables with which it has been cooked ; serve it with two
sauces in boats; one of butter, and the other with
beef-juice. Brocoli may be served also. (See Choux
Brocolis, Article Entremets). It may again be served
cold with English mustard and pickled cucumbers.
Smoked or Hung Beef:—Beuf fumé ou de Ham-
bourg.
Employ the same manner as above, adding salt-
petre, juniper berries, and other aromatics; after
twelve days skewer it, leave it to drain a whole day,
and put it in the smoke for seven or eight days, taking
care to turn it every four days, that it may be equally
smoked; cook it exactly as the round it may be
D


50
FRENCH COOKERY.
!
.
dished upon sour crout ; and garnished with sausages,
cervelas, and petit lard, or simply with a sauce.
Roasted Sirloin.-Aloyau à la Broche.
Take such a sized sirloin as is necessary; let the
large bones be sawn off, lay it in a vessel, strew fine
salt over it, and sprinkle it with olive oil, adding slices
of onion and bay leaves ; leave it, if practicable, two
or three days, turning it two or three times a day;
when it is to be laid down, spit it nicely, rolling the
flank part under to show the fat, which must be
slightly pared, it makes the piece look better; cover
it with strong paper, and put it down to a brisk fire,
to concentrate the juice, taking care that it is neither
over nor under done; and serve with sauce hachée in
a separate dish.
Sirloin.-Aloyau à la Godart.
Chop off part of the chine bones of the sirloin ; lard
it with large lard, season it as boeuf à l'écarlate ; dress
and tie it into a proper form; put it into a braising
pot with a bunch of sweet herbs, onions, and carrots
sufficient, moisten with good bouillon, half a bottle of
Madeira, half a bottle of Champagne, salt, and pep-
per, let it cook upon a slow fire in such a manner
that the stock may become glaze: take it out, and
serve with the following ragoût :- put four large
spoonfuls of Espagnole into a stewpan, add to it the
stock that the beef has been cooked in, when it has
been skimmed and strained ; cut some veal sweet-
breads in slices, mushrooms, artichoke bottoms in
quarters, combs and kidneys of cocks, and small eggs;
cook and skim this ragout, and serve the beef with it;
there may be added at pleasure larded and glazed
sweetbreads, small pigeons a la gautier, whole truffles,
quenelles, six or eight nice craw-fish, some whole
artichoke bottoms, and serve.
Braised Beef-Noix de Beuf braisée.
Take a noix of beef, covered with the skin, lard it
with large lard, season it à l'ecarlate, arrange and tie
it, put it into a stewoan with carrots, a bunch of
1


BEEF.
51
sweet herbs, a clove of garlic, two cloves, salt, a
ladleful of bouillon, and a glass of white wine; when
half done put in six or eight white onions ; put fire
over and under ; when it is cooked take a little of the
stock and reduce it, to glaze the beef and onions ;
dish it and garnish it with the carrots and onions ;
glaze the whole, put the remainder of the stock into
the glaze, and sauce the beef with it.
Ribs of Beef with Roots. Côtes de Beuf couvertes
aux Racines.
Take the covered ribs and lard them with large
lard; do them in the same braise* as the foregoing
article ; cut a sufficient quantity of carrots to cover
the beef, blanch them, cook them in a stewpan with
some of the stock of the beef; let them glaze; take
a spoonful of flour and a little butter ; make a roux,
moisten it; when it is very white put in the stock
of the beef and cook it ; skim and put it through a
search over the carrots ; put the whole upon the fire
with the size of a nut of sugar and a pat of butter ;
toss all well together that the butter may be perfectly
incorporated; pour it over the beef, and serve.
The Ribs under the Shoulder. -Entre-côte de Bauf.
The entre-côte lies under the shoulder blade; the
best part is that which is nearest the covered ribs,
they require to be kept to tender them, the faiter
they are the more delicate. Take out the nerves,
cut them the breadth of two fingers, flatten them,
powder them lightly with salt, put them on a grid-
iron over a brisk fire, turn them often till they are
done, and serve them with a sauce (hachées), or put a
bit of butter on a dish, lay them over it, and turn them,
adding a little lemon or verjuice.
Fillet of Beef.—Filet de Beuf, Piqué à la Broche
Take a nice fillet, from which must be taken the
fibrous skin, and any other small nerves, without
hurting the appearance of the beef; pare and cut
* To braize, signifies to cook meats with vegetables and other
ingredients, which, though always of that nature, vary according to
the meats,
D 2


52
FRENCH COOKERY
out the points, and let it have only the thickness of
two fingers; lard it equally all over. [A long de-
scription is here given how to lard a thing which can
hardly be done without practice, and what every
tolerable cook is equal to.] Put it, after it is lard-
ed, into a marinade or pickle, by pouring over it a
little olive oil, salt, pepper, sliced onions, and bay
leaves; after it has been sufficiently marinaded, spit
it, which may be done in various ways, in the form of
a serpent, gimblet, or horse shoe; let it be done be-
fore a brisk fire, and serve it with a sauce (hachée or
poivrade.)
Fillet of Beef with Madeira.--Filet de Bæuf au Vin
de Madère.
Take a nice fat fillet of beef, lard and prepare it as
is directed for filet de beuf à la broche; cover a stew-
pan with carrots, onions, and a bunch of sweet herbs,
and put slices of bacon round it; put the fillet upon
the vegetables, after they have been strewed with a
quarter of a pound of rasped lard; having made the
fillet into the form of a gimblet, put in half a bottle
of Madeira, as much stock, a little salt, and let it boil
upon a good fire; then cover with two or three rounds
of buttered paper; cover it, and put hot coals over
it, lessen the fire under that it may only simmer.
When done, or nearly so, put the greatest part of its
seasoning through a gauze search, returning what
does not go through it into the wells of the fillet to
nourish it, and keep it moist; put what has run
through the search into a stewpan with a large spoon-
ful of espagnole, let it reduce to the consistence of
half glaze ; drain the fillet, glaze it, and dress it upon
dish. Finish with a bit of butter ; season it, and put
it into the wells of the fillet, serve.
Fillet of the Loin with Cucumbers. —Filet d'Aloyau
aux Concombres.
Follow the above directions without using Madeira,
put in its stead a glass of white wine and a little more
soup or stock, and do it in the same manner; mix a
part of the stock and a spoonful of Espagnole ; reduce,
a


BEEF.
53
skim, and put in the prepared cucumbers. (See
Ragoût de Concombres.)
Fillet of Beef with Endive. —Filet de Beuf à la
Chicorée.
The same as the preceding article, except that there
is put in the wells, or under, a good reduced endive
sauce (au blanc or au roux.)
Fillet of Beef with Love Apple Sauce. - Filet de
Beuf à la Sauce Tomate.
The same as the above, or roasted, with a tomate
sauce, (see article Tomate Sauce).
Fillets of Beef in their Juice. — Filets de Bæuf Sautés
dans leur Glace.
Take off the large end and joint; cut the slices half
an inch thick; if the fillet is large it may be cut into
four or fewer slices; if not, flatten them, cut them
with a paste cutter the size of the hollow of the hand
dip them in clarified butter; arrange them in a flat stew
pan; put them upon a brisk fire, and turn them often
that they may not lose their juice; when nearly done
drain off the butter, and replace it with a little re.
duced stock ; turn them often, pressing them down,
that they may glaze and take the flavour ; when they
are properly glazed, put them upon a dish in the form
of a miroton; put into the sauce a spoonful of con-
somme, to detach the glaze, finish with a bit of butter
and pour it over the fillets.
Potatoes turned whilst raw, the size of small onions,
which may be done in butter till they have a fine
colour, and put into the miroton; tomate sauce,
chicorée, or turned small turnips may be used, but
potatoes appear preferable.
Beef Stakes.-Bifteck.
Choose the middle of the fillet of beef, preserving
the fat, and picking out the sinews; cut it an inch
and half thick; flatten them, and reduce to half an
inch ; put them upon a gridiron over a brisk fire,
turning them constantly to preserve the juice ; they
require only three minutes to do if the fire is proper ;
DS


54
FRENCH COOKERY.
put a bit of butter in a dish, on which lay the steaks,
and turn them on it; garnish with potatoes cooked in
butter or water, serve.
Hotch-potch of Ox Tail. —Queue de Beuf en
Hotche-pot.
Cut an ox tail by the joints ; degorge it well and
blanch it; cover the bottom of a saucepan with paring
of butcher's meat, put in the tail; add onions, carrots,
a seasoned bunch of sweet herbs, a bay leaf, a clove
of garlic, thyme, basil, and two cloves; moisten well,
but do not cover the meat with soup; cover with slices
of bacon; make it boil; cover it with a round of
paper, and put it upon a moderate fire, with fire over
it; let it simmer four or five hours ; when done enough
it will come from the bone, drain and serve it with a
ragout of roots, (see Article cotes de boeuf aux racines.)
If there is no sauce, make a little roux with the size
of an egg of butter, and what flour the butter will
take; when melted, put it upon a slow fire; stir it to
prevent its burning; strain the stock, and mix the
roux with it ; when enough run it again through a
search ; observe that in this case roots must be pre-
viously prepared, as directed for côtes de bouf; put
the roots into the sauce, that they may take a good
taste; let them boil, adding a bit of sugar, and finish
with a bit of butter ; dress the tail as high as possible
in the middle of the dish, and sauce it.
Ox Tail with Pease.—Queue à la purée de pois,
Lentilles, &c.
Prepare the tail as in the foregoing article; and
make the purée as those for potage ; finish with a bit
of butter; if there is no sauce to thicken it, take some
of the stock the tail has been done in, reduce it, skim,
and put in a bit of sugar, salt it properly, and finish
with a bit of butter; drain and arrange
it
upon the
dish, pour the purée over, and serve.
Smoked Tongues-Langue Fumée.
Take the tongues, cut out the throats, and put
them to degorge three hours in water ; scrape them ;


BEEF.
55
let them drain ; rub them with fine salt and a sufficient
quantity of salt-petre; put the tongues in layers in an
earthen dish, strewing between them bay leaves, sweet
basil, thyme, juniper berries, parsley, young onions,
some cloves of garlic, shalots, and cloves; cover the
vessel in such a manner as to exclude the air ; leave
them eight days; then tie them by the points to a long
pole, and put them into the chimney till they are dry;
when they are used let them be washed, scraped, and
cooked in a good seasoning. (Petit salé) may be
made in the same way or put into the same pickle.
Hung Beef Tongues.-Langue de Bauf Fourrée.
Prepare the tongues, and clean some ox's great
puddings, which must be left some hours in water
with aromatic herbs; put the tongues into them, and
tie them at the ends; have a brine made of salt, a
little saltpetre, mace, cloves, ginger, long pepper,
bay leaves, thyme, sweet basil, juniper berries, and
coriander ; boil this pickle half an hour upon a slow
fire ; pass it through a search, and let it repose; pour
it off clear; put the tongues well covered in it twelve
days; take them cut and dry them in the chimney ;
aromatic herbs may be burned under them: these
tongues are to be cooked in a braise.
Braised Tongue.-Langue de Boeuf à la Braise.
Cut off the throat from an ox's tongue; let it
degorge some hours at least ; take it out, scrape and
clean it perfectly ; blanch it in a boiler or pot ; take
it out upon a cloth, skin it, and lard it with great
lard, that has been seasoned with salt, pepper, fine
spiceries, parsley and young onions ; cook it in a pot
with onions and carrots, moisten with good stock, and
a glass of white wine ; put in the parings of butchers'
meat, fowl, or game, to give it a taste ; let it boil ;
put it upon a moderate fire, cover it with paper and
put fire over; let it simmer four hours and a half, dish
and garnish it with the roots that have been cooked
with it ; pass the stock through a gauze search, add
two spoonfuls of espagnole; sauce the tongue with it,
and serve.
D4


56
FRENCH COOKERY.
Tongue with Parmesan.-Langue de Bæuf, à l'Italienne
ou au Parmesan.
Prepare and cook an ox's tongue in a braise ; let it
cool; cut it in very thin slices; put rasped Parmesan in
a deep dish, and lay the slices of tongue over it; con-
tinue doing so till three or four beds have been made,
alternately of tongue and cheese; sprinkle every layer
with a little of the stock the tongue was braised in,
and finish it with a covering of cheese, which must be
basted with melted butter; put it into the oven, and
when the cheese is of a fine colour, serve.
Beef Palates.- Palais de Bauf au Gratin.
Put two or three palates of beef upon the gridiron,
on the skinny side, on a hot fire, let them grill till the
skin will come easily off, with a knife; scrape it well
where the skin has come off, that nothing may be left;
take off the point and what attaches to the throat, and
the black that runs down the middle, without taking
too much ; degorge and blanch them; cook them in
a blanc as is directed at the article Tête de veau en
Tortue,) three or four hours; drain them and let them
cool a little ; cut them open as bacon is sliced; cover
them with cooked forced meat the same thickness ; roll
them up, dress them nicely at both ends, making them
equal; cover the bottom of the dish the thickness of
a finger with forced meat ; range the little cannelons
upon their ends round upon the forced meat, it must
have the appearance of the base of a tower ; cover it
with thin slices of bacon, and fill the well with a bit
of crumb of bread, to keep the cannelons in their
position; melt some butter and glaze them; sift
crumbs of bread over; put them into the oven, and
give them a fine colour; take out the bread and the
bacon; drain off the butter ; put a nice Italienne into
the well, and serve.
Another way.-- Palais de Beuf à la Italienne.
Prepare five or six ox palates; braise them as
above, cut them in scollops, small squares, or in
rounds, the size of half-a-crown; put into a stew-


BEEF.
57
pan five or six large spoonfuls of (Italienne rousse,)
which must be reduced to two-thirds ; put in the
palates, and let them simmer a little ; toss them; put
in a little lemon juice, and serve.
Palates another way Palais de Beuf à la Poulette. .
Prepare as above the same quantity of palates ;
cut them round or in slices; put them into a stew-
pan with three large spoonfuls of velouté ; let them sim-
mer; make a thickening with two yolks of eggs, mix
them with a little milk or cream ; take the palates from
the fire, put in the thickening, and set them on the
fire, shaking them continually : put in a little, bit of
butter, lemon, or verjuice, and minced parsley. The
dish
may be garnished with fried corks of bread.
Palates another way.—Palais de Bæuf a la Ravigote.
When cut in shapes as above, toss them in a cold
or hot ravigote sauce, (see that article), and serve.
Palates another way.-- Croquettes de Palais de Bæuf.
Cook three palates in a blanc, cut them as above, as
also mushrooms and truffles ; reduce four spoonfuls of
Espagnole or velouté to half glaze, put in the in-
gredients with minced parsley ; take it off the fire ;
thicken with two yolks of eggs and the size of a
walnut of butter; put it into a dish, spread it with
the blade of a knife, leaving it pretty thick ; when
the salpicon is cold, cut it in equal squares, give it
any form, cutlets, cannelons, pears, or little balls;
beat three eggs, put in a little fine salt, dip them all
in one after another, roll them in crumbs of bread,
in keeping the form that has been given them;
put them on a dish ; put the crumbs of bread again
through a search; dip a second time the croquettes
into the egg, pass them again; powder the dish with
crumbs, put them upon it, and cover them with
crumbs, that they may not dry ; when ready to serve,
take them out of the crumbs, put them
couvercle, place it upon the fire, and turn the croquettes
at one time, that they may have the same colour ;
take them off, drain and dish them upon fried parsley,
upon a
D 5


58
FRENCH COOKERY.
with which the croquettes are also to be covered, and
serve.
Palates another way.—Palais de Beuf en Cracovie.
Prepare three palates as in the foregoing articles :
cut each into four pieces, then slice or split each
piece into two, which will give twenty-four pieces ;
have a calf's udder blanched in water, or cooked in
the pot; cut it in thin slices like the palates, have
also a salpiçon as is made for the croquettes ; spread
the thickness of an inch of it upon the palates, roll
them, and wrap each in a slice of udder; fry them
as the croquettes, or dip them into (pâte à frire); fry,
dish, and serve as the croquettes.
Palates another way. - Palais de Boeuf a la Lyon-
naise.
Let four or five palates be cooked in a blanc; fry
five or six onions in slices, let them have a fine
colour; when cooked moisten them with a spoon-
ful or two of espagnole ; if there is none, dust in
a little flour, and add some broth; cook altogether;
cut the palates into squares or fillets, put them into
the sauce with a little salt, pepper, and a little
mustard.
Tripe.Gras-double.
Take the thickest and fattest part of the tripe, put
it into warm water, scrape it well, and take off the
spungy part; then throw it into a quantity of hot
water, let it boil, and clean it enough; rub it with a
lemon, make it as white as possible ; cook it in a blanc
seven or eight hours; then cut it in lozenges, or
fillets. If to be served à la poulette (see that article),
and if à la Italienne (see that article).
VEAL
Ought rather to be of a greenish colour than red,
very fat, the bones well covered, and the kidnies
large and fat.


VEAL.
59
Calf's Head. Tête de Veau au naturel, ou à la
Bourgeoise.
Choose a very white head; take out the bones of
the under jaws, and those of the nose as far as the
eyes, without hurting the form of the head; take out
the tongue without cutting it ; put it to degorge
in a great quantity of water; blanch it, dress, singe,
and rub it with lemon; cook it in a blanc, (see blanc,
p. 26.), wrap it in a cloth, boil, and leave it to simmer
two or three hours; when ready to serve, drain it.
After having skinned the tongue, prepare the brains ;
dress and serve with a sauce (au pauvre homme.) (See
that article.)
Stuffed Calf's Head.-Tête de Veau farcie.
Take a nice calf's head, and prepare it as above,
only keep the eyes attached to the skin; put it to
degorge; also the tongue, from which the throat
must be taken; make a farce with a pound of veal,
and a pound and a half of beef kidney suet; mince
them separately; pound the veal ; add the suet, and
pound altogether; add a sufficient quantity of crumb,
which must have been steeped in cream, and after-
wards dried ; fine herbs, minced and done in butter;
such as mushrooms, parsley, and young onions, which
must be cooled before they are mixed with the farce;
season with salt, fine spices, and pepper; pound alto-
gether; moisten this farce with a little water from
time to time, and three or four eggs one after the
other; if too firm a little water may be added ;
drain and wipe the head ; if necessary singe it ;
spread the farce about two inches thick upon the
head; then put on it a cold salpicon, of which the
dices are larger than for croquettes ; skin, and put in
the tongue in its place; cover the salpicon with the
farce; then form and sew up the head; cover the
throat with slices of bacon, or a bit of the skin of
veal ; bind it close up in a cloth, take care of laying
the ears properly to keep it in form; put into a pot
some parings of butcher's meat, salt, onions, carrots,
two bay-leaves, two cloves of garlic, two cloves, a
D 6


60
FRENCH COOKERY.
bottle and half of good white wine, some braise or
good soup ; leave it to cook two or three hours,
which must be constant; drain it, and serve it with
the following ragout.
Put into a saucepan two large spoonfuls of Espag-
nole, and some white wine ; reduce it; put in six or
eight quenelles of the same farce, which have been
poached in soup, add some small mushrooms, arti-
choke bottoms, slices of veal, and sweetbreads ; let
the whole simmer, skim, dish, put the ragoût round it,
and garnish with craw-fish, glazed larded sweetbreads,
or truffles, and serve. It may also be served with the
ragoût en tortue.
Calf's Head another way.-
-Tête de Veau en Tortue.
Prepare a calf's head as above, cut it in two; singe
it; rub it with lemon, and cook it in a blanc; when
cooked cut it in twelve pieces ; dress these pieces on
a dish, lay over it the tongue, which must be grilled ;
with crumbs of bread, of a fine colour (à la Anglaise ;)
add the brains after having divided them into five or
six parts, cooked in marinade and fried in pate a frire,
sauce it with ragoût en tortue, garnish it with six
poached eggs, twelve fine truffles, twelve craw-fish,
and larded sweetbreads, and serve.
Stuffed Calves' Ears.- Oreilles de Veau farcie.
Clean, singe, and cook in a blanc the calves' ears
necessary, let them cool, and stuff them with farce
cuite (see that article); unite the farce with the blade
of the knife; beat some eggs;, dip the ears into
them, then into crumbs of bread; dip them into the
eggs and crumbs a second time ; put them into a dish,
and cover them with the remains of the crumbs; when
ready to serve, take them out and fry them; take
care that the frying pan is not too hot, as the ears do
not require much colour, and also that the farce may
have time to cook ; dish with the points up, with a
little fried parsley over,
and serve.
Fried Calves' Ears. Oreilles de Vcau en Marinade.
Cook five calves' ears in a blanc ; cut them length-


VEAL.
61
1
ways in four pieces ; put them into vinegar, large
pepper, and salt, dip them into pâte a frire, which
ought to be very light (see the art.); fry them of an
equal colour, turn them; let them be done upon a
quick fire ; when they are of a fine colour take them
off, and drain them; dish them nicely with a crown of
fried parsley, and serve.
Calves' Ears another way.:-
Oreilles de Veau à la
Italienne.
Prepare seven or eight ears, and cook them as
above; cover the bottom of a stewpan with slices of
lard; put in the ears with a bunch of parsley and
young onions, and some slices of lemon; moisten with
stock, and half a glass of white wine ; cover the
whole with slices of bacon; put over a round of
buttered paper; let them cook an hour and half;
drain, wipe, and cut off the points; serve them under
an Italian sauce. (See that article:)
Calves' Ears another way:
-Oreilles de Veau à la
Ravigote.
Prepare the ears as directed above; they ought to
be
very
white;
when ready to serve cut the points
and slit the horny part ; serve them upon a ravigote,
cold or hot.
Tongues.
Calves' tongues are served in the same manner as
those of beef.
Calves' Feet.-Pieds de Veau.
Calves' feet are cooked in the same manner as the
heads, and are eaten* (au naturel, en marinade, or à la
ravigote); they are at enmity with fat sauces.
Calves' Brains.Cervelles de Veau à l'Allemande.
Wash three calves' brains, take off the skin and
fibres without breaking them; let them degorge in a
sufficient quantity of water; change and pick out
any fibres that may have escaped ; have ready a
* Au naturel signifies plain boiled; marinade is the French
manner of pickling, which is excellent; and ravigote is a sauce.


VEAL.
63
and shake it ; sauce the brains with it; garnish with
fried parsley, and serve.
Brains another Way.-Cervelles de Veaux à la
Ravigote.
Prepare in the same manner as above; serve with
any of the ravigote sauces; they may be garnished
with small onions cooked in consommé.
Calf's Liver.--Foie de Veaux à la Poêle.
Take a very white, or otherwise a very fat calf's
liver, cut it into slices of the thickness of a crown-
piece; put into a frying pan a bit of butter, set it on
a good fire, and shake it often ; when the liver is
firm, dust it with a little flour; shake it; and give the
flour time to cook; strew over it hashed parsley and
some young onions, or shalots; season with salt and
large pepper; moisten it with half a bottle of red
wine; shake it well over the fire, without letting it
boil, as it would harden the liver: if the sauce is too
thick put in a little stock, and finish it with some
lemon or verjuice if agreeable, and serve.
Larded Liver. -- Foie de Veau à la Bourgeoise, ou
à l'Etouffade.
Lard the liver with large lard across *, that has
been seasoned with salt, pepper, fine spices, basil, and
thyme in powder, with parsley and young onions
minced; cover a stewpan with slices of lard, onions,
and carrots, two cloves, a bay leaf, a clove of garlic,
some parings of veal, half a bottle of white wine,
and some stock; let it boil, skim it, cover with slices
of bacon, and a round of paper put on a cover, and
lute it; put it an hour and quarter upon a palliasse
with fire over and under ; when done, pass some of
the seasoning through a gauze search, put it on the
fire with a piece of butter rubbed in four to thicken
it; let it reduce; if liked, a little butter of anchovies
may be added; masque, and serve.
* The lard ought to be well rolled in this seasoning.


64
FRENCH COOKERY.
1
Calf's Liver with Italian Sauce. Foie de Veau à
l'Italienne.
Take a nice white liver, cut it in slices an inch
thick ; 'make them all of the same size, cutting them
into the form of a fan; dredge them with flour; put
some good oil into a frying pan, put in the liver, and
shake over a little salt; set it on a good fire ; when
cooked, which will be known by cutting it, dish it,
en cordon ; sauce it with a good Italienne rousse to
which the juice of a lemon has been added, and
serve.
Calf's Liver roasted. - Foie de Veau à la Broche.
Choose a fine white liver, lard with large lard the
under side, which must be seasoned as that for etouff
ade; put it on an earthen dish, with some sprigs of
parsley, young onions cut in pieces, two bay leaves,
and a little thyme; strew over a little salt, sprinkle
with salad oil, and leave it to pickle ; when it is spit-
ted, care must be taken to fix it properly by small
skewers, that it may not turn; then wrap it in buttereil
paper, which must be tied to the spit, baste and cook
it an hour and quarter, but that depends upon the
size and the fire employed: when ready to serve,
glaze, and put it upon a good poivrade.
Calf's Lights.Mou de Veau à la Poulette.
Take a very white calf's lights, cut it in large
degorge it by changing the water often; clear it en.
tirely of the blood, put it to blanch in cold water,
and
give it a boil; refresh, drain, and put it in a stewpan
with a bit of butter; let it come without browning;
dredge a little flour over it ; turn and moisten it by
little and little with stock, stirring it continually;
season with salt, pepper, parsley, a bay leaf, a clove,
and a clove of garlic; let it boil upon a brisk fire,
always shaking it, that the flour may keep suspended;
when three-fourths done, put in small onions and
mushrooms; if the sauce is still too, thin, put the
greatest part into another stewpan and reduce it ;
then thicken with two yolks of eggs; add a little
minced parsley, and lemon or verjuice, and serve.
dices;


VEAL.
65
Calf's Lights in Brown Sauce. Mou de Veau au
Rour.
Prepare as above, but instead of putting it into but-
ter put it into a rouI, moisten and season as above ;
when three quarters cooked, put in young onions and
mushrooms; reduce it, and when it has attained a
fine colour rousse, finish with lemon or verjuice, and
serve.
Peal Fraise. Fraise de l'eau.
Take a very fat white paunch, clean, prepare, de-
gorge, and blanch it well; refresh and cook it in a
blanc; when enough drain it, and serve it with a sauce
(au pautre homme) in a sauce-boat.
Veal Fraise. Fraise de l'eau à la Brisac.
When cooked as above, cut it in equal pieces, put
it in a highly seasoned and well reduced lialienne; it
being insipid of itself, when ready to serve heighten
it by lemon juice, a little oil, and rasped garlic.
Teal Sweetbreads.—Ris de Veau à la Dauphine.
Take five sweetbreads, cut off the throats, degorge
them by changing the water often that they may be
very white, give them a slight blanch to make them
firm enough to lard, put one orer another; dress them
into a stewpan with some parings of real, onions, and
carrots, and line the sides with bacon; put in the
sweetbreads; moisten with consommé, and take care
the bacon does not swim; cover with buttered paper;
let them boil, put them on a paillasse with fire orer,
let it be strong enough to give them a fine colour; let
them cook about three quarters of an hour; drain,
glaze, and put them upon a good white endive sauce;
four large crusts of fried bread may be added ; if
there is no glaze, some of the stock of the sweetbreads
may be reduced, and passed through a gauze search.
Sweetbreads with Espagnole Sauce. — Ris de Peau à
t'Espagnole.
Prepare, blanch, lard, and cook, as in the above
article; put their stock into a stewpan, and reduce it
nearly to glaze; put in the sweetbreads till it is com-


66
FRENCH COOKERY.
1
plete, turn them lightly upon the larded side, dish
them, put into the stewpan a large spoonful of espag-
nole, detach the glaze, sauce the sweetbreads, and
serve,
Hatelets de ris de Veau.
Prepare and cook the sweetbreads as above with-
out larding ; let them cool, and cut them in slices half
an inch thick; cut a veal's tongue into slices of
the same size, truffles done in butter, and boiled
petit lard; have sauce aux hatelets very hot, and put
in altogether; mix them well and let them cool, then
thread them, mixed upon small skewers ; pare them
that they may be perfectly square ; fill up every void,
cover them with the sauce, and dip them into crumbs
of bread in holding them by the ends, then into an
omelet, and again into the crumbs; keep them square;
when ready to serve put them upon a grill over a
slow fire to give them time without too much colour ;
grill on all sides till a fine colour, and serve."
Sweetbreads in Cases. Ris de Veau en Caisse.
Prepare and cut the sweetbreads in slices, put them
with a bit of butter, parsley, small onions, mush-
rooms, salt, and large pepper, (the herbs must be
minced very fine,) into a stewpan; let them simmer ;
have a paper case, the outside must be oiled, either
round or square ; put into the bottoms an inch of
farce cuite; put the case upon a grill or the cover of a
tartpan that the farce may not burn; the case ought
to have a yellow tint; put in the sweetbreads and ne
herbs ; sauce with a good espagnole reduced, some
lemon juice, and serve.
Sweetbreads in Jelly. -Petit Aspic de Ris de Veau.
Cook those sweetbreads more than for the hatelets,
cut them in the same manner; and thread them upon
small silver skewers ; make them square; they may
be mixed with truffles; have moulds of silver, or
white iron, which will admit easily the hatelets gar-
nished; run into these moulds a warm aspic, about
the thickness of two crowns, and let them cool; any


68
FRENCH COOKERY.
1
of butter ; season with parsley, and young onions,
half a clove of garlic, a bay leaf, and some onions ; put
the whole upon the fire, but do not let them brown ;
dredge them with a little flour, shake, and moisten
with soup, add salt and pepper; in cooking, stir
or shake them often, that they may not stick; take
out the sweetbreads and onions, thicken (see liaison),
put in a little blanched minced parsley, with vinegar,
or lemon juice, and serve.
Loin of Veal. Longe de Veau.
When a large entree is required, the flank part
ought to be rolled under, and the large ends of the
bones chopped off, to make it as square and well-shaped
as possible, and when properly spitted, wrap it up in
several folds of white paper, and butter the outer-
most: the size of the piece, and the fire employed,
must regulate the time it will take to cook.
Fillet of Veal and its uses. Cuissot de Veau, et la
manières d'en tirer parti.
Take a fillet of veal, and being accustomed to
handle it, it will be perceived that it is formed of
three distinct muscles, which the French name noir,
because they are separated, and not in a general mass ;
the one in the inside is called the noix, (and it is neces-
sary to preserve its name, as there is no suitable term
for it in English ;) this noix is the fattest and most
tender part of the fillet; the cook once understand-
ing what is pointed out, will find the means of sepa-
rating it from the other: the second is the sous noir,
that is what lays farther down, or under; the third
noir is that called the noix pâtissier, which is close to
the tail.
The noix makes an entree, or a first course dish,
the sous noix makes the farce cuite, that is to say,
forced meats ; and the noix pâtissier, the godiveau, or
velouté, which is also sauce tournée ; and all that re-
mains when broken, and cut up, may be made into an
Espagnole.


VEAL.
69
Noir of Veal.-Noix de Veau à la Bourgeoise.
Take a nois of veal, with the whole udder attached
to it; put it in a clean linen cloth, flatten it, and lard
it lengthways, with seasoned lard, (see article noir de
boeuf et culotte à l'ecarlate ;) bed a stewpan with some
parings of veal, and put in the noir ; surround it with
onions, carrots, parsley, and young onions, moisten
with some good stock or soup, cover it with a strong
buttered paper, and let it boil ; cover, and put it upon
a paillasse, with fire over and under ; let it cook from
an hour and a half to two hours; drain it, and strain
the stock and reduce it; glaze the noir, add two
spoonfuls of espagnole to the glaze, to detach it:
skim, and finish with a bit of butter.
If there is no espagnole, a little rour may be made,
and when the noir is glazed, mix it well with the re-
mainder, and put a very little white wine, with some
stock into it: reduce, skim, and finish with a bit of
butter.
The noir may be served upon endive, sorrel, spi-
nage, a purée of onions, small turned roots, or the
stalks of cardoons.
Noix of Veal another way. Noix de Veau en
Bedeau.
Take a nois of veal as above, prepare it in the
same manner; cover the udder with a slice of bacon,
to preserve it white; cook it in the same way, with fire
over and under; glaze it, and serve it upon chicory,
cucumbers, or sorrel, either in juice or in béchamelle.
Larded Veal Noir.—Noiz de Veau piquée.
Beat a noix of veal, take off the udder; pare, and
glide a knife over, to unite it; lard it all over; marque *
it in a stewpan as the above; put the onions under it
to give it a roundish form, moisten with good soup
or stock, but do not wet the lard; when done, glaze
it, and serve upon an espagnole, or endive.
Veal Grenadins.-Grenadins de Veau.
Take a nois of veal, beat, and split it quite through
* Marque is to put it in with the proper ingredients.


70
FRENCH COOKERY,
then beat both lightly, to flatten them a little ; cut
each into three or four pieces, taking care to cut
them in long lozenges ; make one piece perfectly
round; cut the lard very equal, and lard the whole;
marque a stewpan with the parings of the veal, two
carrots, and onions cut in two; put a grenadin upon
the largest side of each onion, care must be taken in
arranging them in the stewpan, that they do not
touch each other; season with parsley, young onions,
a bay leaf, and a clove; moisten with stock, but take
care that it does not rise to the lard; cover it with
buttered paper, let it boil over a brisk fire, then put
it to simmer, with some very hot cinders over, to
make it take a very fine gold colour; let it cook an
hour, strain, and glaze it; put it upon a purée of any
sort, either mushrooms, sorrel, endive, &c. dish it
en rose, with the points towards the middle, where the
round is placed.
Manchons à la Gérard.
Prepare a noix as above, and cut it lengthways in
four or five pieces ; let them be rather more than half
an inch thick; beat them with the blade of the hatchet,
then with the back of a knife, and make the strokes
very near each other both ways, so as to cut the fibres
completely; take some quenelles, into which much
white of eggs has not been put, and roll it up in three
pieces of the noix, in the form of rolls, and then cover
them with a thin layer of the same farce; cut the re-
maining slices of the noix into pieces of two fingers'
breadth, lard them carefully, put them upon the ends
of the manchons, stitch them on to keep their form,
cut a small truffle very fine, and powder one with it,
taking care not to touch the larded part ; mince in the
same manner pistachios to powder another, and for
the third sweet almonds; cover the manchons so as
that the farce may not be perceptible; marque them
in a stewpan with slices of bacon as above, and do
them in the same way, only taking care not to put so
much fire over; drain, and unstitch them; glaze the
larded ends, and serve upon a good Espagnole, or a
sauce aux truffles.


VEAL.
71
Hátereaur.
Prepare a noix as above, but cut it a little thinner ;
beat, and cut it in pieces of three inches long, and
four broad; lard them with care lengthways, and turn
the larded side down upon a cloth, and cover them
with the following farce. Take as much farce cuite
as will make nine hâtereaux, in mixing with it a third
of fat livers, truffles, and mushrooms cut in small
squares; mix it with a wooden spoon, add two or three
yolks of eggs, salt, and fine spiceries ; put this farce
upon the hatereaux and roll them up in such a man-
ner that the two ends meet; fix them with a skewer,
and fasten them upon the spit, cover them with paper,
and baste them with butter: dish them under a thick
Italienne rousse or blanche; serve.
Popiettes de Veau.
Take part of a noir; cut it in very thin slices; beat
it well every way, cover with farce cuite of fowl or
veal, roll it up in the same manner as the hâtereaut,
and tie or stitch it to preserve the form ; cover the
stewpan with slices of lard, put them in with a small
ladleful of stock, a glass of good white wine, a bunch
of parsley and young onions; season with a clove, a
clove of garlic, and a little sweet basil ; cook it three
quarters of an hour ; pass the stock through a gauze
search, put in two large spoonfuls of espagnole ; re-
duce, skim, and drain the popiettes; glaze, and serve.
Filets Mignons de Veau.
Take six fillets mignons, lard three, and decorate
the other three with truffle or ham ; marque them as
the fricandeau, cook them in the same manner; glaze
and serve them upon a ragout of endive, sorrel, or
any other.
FORE QUARTER OF VEAL.
Quartier du devant de Veau.
This piece is divided into the shoulder, the breast,
and the back ribs; the French call the breast the
tendons, and the back ribs the quarré or square. The


72
FRENCH COOKERY.
shoulder may be served roasted, and to make blan-
quettes of it; may also be made into soups, but not
with such advantage as the parts generally used ; this
piece is of great use for the table, as many delicate
dishes are formed from it; the noir, which is bedded
in fat near the neck, is particularly esteemed by the
gourmands.
Blanquettes de Veau.
When a shoulder has been served roasted, cut off
the meat in pieces, and flatten with the blade of the
knife; pare and take off the brown skin and mince it;
reduce some velouté and put in the veal, but do not
let it boil; thicken with as many yolks of eggs as are
necessary ; add verjuice or lemon, and a little bit of
butter; there may be added parsley and young onions
minced ; ana serve.
Tendons of Veal. -Tendons de Veau à la Poulette ou
au Blanc.
Take a breast of veal, cut out the tendons which
lie round the front of the breast, from the red bones,
ever which they lay, and cut them into the form
of oysters; degorge, blanch, and refresh them;
cover a stewpan with slices of lard, and some parings
of veal; put in the tendons, and season with a bunch
of sweet herbs, some slices of lemon, three or four
carrots, with the same quantity of onions ; moisten
with stock, make it boil, let it simmer upon a paillasse,
two or three hours : before taking them up, put in the
point of the knife, if it enters easily they are enough;
drain and serve in every
different
way.
Tendons of Veal in Peacocks' Tails. Tendons de
Veau en Queues de Paon.
The same procedure as the above article, only that
the form is to be different ; after flattening the breast,
it is to be cut in pieces of three or four inches, and
narrowed at the upper end, to give them a long heart
shape ; flatten with the blade of the hatchet; degorge,
blanch, cook them as above, with the sole exception
of leaving out the lemon. If there is no sauce to serve


VEAL.
73
them in, pass the stock they have been cooked in
through a gauze search, reduce it and glaze them,
and put into what remains a little bit of roux; melt or
mix them over the fire, moisten with stock and a
quarter of a glass of good white wine, put in ten chips
of mushrooms or truffles, boil, skim, and strain it;
reduce it to the consistence of sauce; and finish in
putting a bit of butter into it by shaking and vanning;
sauce the tendons, adding small onions, asparagus
tops, or a ragout of mushrooms.
Casserole au Riz.
Pick, wash, and blanch the rice, drain and put it
into a stewpan ; moisten it with the top of the stock
pot by degrees as it swells ; shake it often, to pre-
vent its sticking, but in a manner not to break it;
take care that it is well nourished, that it may be fat
enough; put in a little salt; when done take a piece
of bread the size of the dish it is to be served upon,
and mould the rice round as if it were paste, and fix
it well upon the dish ; cover the bread with a slice of
bacon;
; put the rice into a mould that has been buttered
to cover it; close it well, forming it nicely; mark the
cover where it is to be opened when it is done ; put it
in a very hot oven, let it take a fine colour; when ready
to serve, take off the top with care, and empty it by
taking out the bread, and fill it with any ragoût that
is suitable, put on the cover and send it to table.
Tendons de Veau en Macédoine.
Prepare these tendons as before, in any shape, and
cook them in the same manner; dish them upon a
macédoine, as indicated at that article.
Tendons de Veau panés et grillés.
Prepare the tendons as oysters or peacocks' tails,
do them in crumbs, either in the French or the
English way, give them a good colour, and serve
them over sauce (poivrade, pauvre homme, or an Ita-
lienne.)
Tendons de Veau à la Mayonnaise.
When the tendons are cooked let them cool and
E


74
FRENCH COOKERY.
pare them; then dress them en cordons around the
dish, make a border of small onions that have been
cooked in soup or stock, and cardoons intermixing with
them, but do not garnish till sauced with a mayon-
naise, and serve.
Tendons de Veau à la Ravigote.
'Prepare the tendons in form of oysters; let them
cool, and pare them ; border the dish with but-
ter; arrange the tendons en cordon, cover with a
cold ravigote ; but if served hot make the border of
bread.
Fried Tendons. Tendons de Veau à la Marinade.
After the tendons are well cooked, put them into
marinade, give them a boil, let them cool, drain them
well, dip them into a light (pâte à fire), put them
carefully into the frying pan, keeping their form ; do
not let them run together; let them take a fine co-
lour ; lay them on a cloth to drain ; dish, and cover
them with a little fried parsley.
Tendons de Veau à la Villeroy.
Prepare the tendons the same as for the poullette ;
put in rather more thickening, and some lemon ; let
them cool, and cover them well with their sauce;
strew them with crumbs, and dip them into an omelet ;
crumb them a second time, and fry them; serve them
either over or under fried parsley.
Veal Cutlets. Côtelettes de Veau.
Take some ribs of very white veal, cut them of an
equal size, taking away the back bone; pare the
fillets, take off the skin and nerves, and flatten them
and round them at the broad end ; take off a little of
the flesh at the other end of the bone, and scrape it
with a knife ; see that the bone will not appear too
much when done, if so, cut it shorter ; they may, thus
prepared, be used plain, larded, or any other way.
Another Way.-- Côtelettes Piquées.
Prepare the cutlets as above, preserving the skin,
which must be tied, that it may not shrink from the


VEAL
75
lard; lard the cutlet in two rows, cover a stewpan
with the parings, two onions, some carrots, and a
bunch of sweet herbs, moisten with broth, stock, or
water ; if water is employed, put in a little salt; cover
with a round of buttered paper, and cook them in the
same manner as granadins ; drain and reduce the
stock, and use it to glaze the cutlets, and serve upon
sorrel, endive, cucumbers, young pease, love apples,
a purée of mushrooms, or a good Espagnol.
Another Way. —- Côtelettes à la Chingara.
Cut six or seven cutlets thicker than directed in
the last article ; lard them with finer lard, intermixed
with ham * ; marque them as above, and cook them in
the same manner ; 'after they are done let them cool,
pare them, and cut off the points of the lard, &c.
which project; reduce the stock to glaze, and put in
the cutlets ; take a smoked or reddened neat's tongue,
cut it in thin slices, shaping them to the cutlets ;
warm them in soup, and glaze them; arrange them
altogether on the dish en cordons, intermixing them;
put two large spoonfuls of Espagnol into the stewpan
to detach the glaze ; finish with a little bit of butter,
and serve.
The remainder of the neat's tongue may be hashed
and added to the sauce, which in that case ought not
to be boiled ; add a little more butter to render it
smooth : put it into the well of the cutlets, and
serve.
Veal Cutlets. Cótelettes de Veau Sautées.
Take seven cutlets, pare and flatten them ; melt a
quarter of a pound of butter, dip in both sides of the
cutlets, and arrange them in such a manner, that they
may not lay over one another, put them over a slow
fire and turn them often; when they are three fourths
done
pour off the butter, and add the size of two thumbs
of glaze, and a large spoonful of stock; put them over
a brisk fire, turn them often and let them be laid flat
• Put them in the stewpan with the seasoning, as in the fore-
going article.
E 2


76
FRENCH COOKERY.
in the
pan, that the glaze may be able to penetrate,
when they are enough and well glazed, dish them en
cordon ; put a little stock into the sauteuse to detach
the glaze, reduce and put in a bit of butter and
lemon juice ; mix all well without boiling by shaking
the pan; masque, and serve.
Veal Cutlets with Ham. —- Côtebettes de Veau au
Jambon.
Pare six cutlets as in the preceding article, and
cook them in the same way ; when they are served, put
between them slices of the noix of ham, as the tongue
à l'écarlate was arranged between the cutlets chingar
or ham.
Veal Cutlets. - Côtelettes de Veau au Naturel.
Prepare the cutlets and put them with butter, as
above, to grow firm upon the fire: let minced parsley,
butter, and put them on the gridiron ; turn them often, !
and baste them with melted butter; let them be ot !
a fine colour ; when they are enough done they will
remain firm when they are pressed with the finger,
dish them and sauce with good beef juice or sauce au
pauvre homme, and serve..
Crumbed Veal Cutlets. Côtelettes de Veau Panées.
The only difference from the above article is, that
after the cutlets have been dipt in butter, they must
be rolled in crumbs and done upon a slower fire.
Veal Cutlets in Paper. -- Cótelettes de Veau en
Papillotes.
Prepare the cutlets and put them with butter, as
above, to grow firm upon the fire: let minced parsley,
mushrooms, and small onions be added in equal quan-
tities, a little rasped bacon, with salt, pepper, and fine
spices; let them simmer ; when enough, take out the
fine herbs and add to them a large spoonful or two of
Espagnol, or velouté, and reduce ; taste if it is good,
and thicken with a sufficient quantity of yolks of
eggs; let it cool : cut the paper covers in the form
of kites, and oil the middles where the cutlets will be
placed; put a very thin slice of bacon upon the
--


78
FRENCH COOKERY.
MUTTON.
The best mutton is that which has the deepest
colour, and the finest white, the leg short and thick:
the male is preferable: it is in season during ten
months, as it is apt to taste of the wool for some
weeks after it is shorn.*
The hind part of Mutton roasted. — Rốt-de-Bif de
Mouton à la Broche.
Take a saddle of mutton, with the haunches; break
the bones, beat them several times with the blade of
a hatchet; put one of the knuckles through the other,
break the ribs, and roll the flank under, and skewer
them into a good form; take some of the kidney fat
out; put a small skewer into the back marrow ; spit
it, and secure the knuckles well together; put a
skewer through the noix, or thick part of the legs,
and another between, that it may be well secured,
so that it may not turn upon the spit; cover the whole
with buttered paper; it will take to cook from an
hour and half to two hours, which depends upon the
strength of the fire, and the size of the piece; serve
it with juice under or upon (haricots à la bretonne).
Braised leg of Mutton.-Gigot Braise, ou à la Braise.
Take a good leg of mutton, take out all the bones
but the shank, lard it with great lard, well seasoned
with fine spices, salt, basil in powder, pepper, parsley,
and small onions, minced ; tie it up in its own form;
marque a pot with some parings of butchers' meat,
five or six onions, and as many carrots; put the
mutton over it, moisten with good broth, and half a
glass of brandy, two bay leaves, three cloves, two
heads of garlic, and a little thyme ; let it boil, cover
it with paper, and simmer with fire over and under :
it will take from four to five hours, drain, glaze, and
serve it, with its juice, or on a ragoût of endive, or
any other.
* The French mutton is generally much smaller than the
English, and this ought to be observed, as where two carrés are
sometimes ordered, one might do.


MUTTON.
79
Leg of Mutton à la Gasconne. — Gigot à la Gasconne.
Take a leg as above, lard it with a dozen of heads
of garlic, and a dozen of anchovies in fillets; cook it
on the spit, and serve it with a ragout of garlic, pre-
pared as follows; pick a pint of garlic, blanch it by
giving it several boils, when nearly done, throw it
into fresh water; drain and put into a stewpan four
or five spoonfuls of reduced Espagnol, and two of
beef juice; put in the garlic, reduce, and serve it
under the mutton.
Boiled leg of Mutton-Gigot à l'eau.
Put a leg of mutton into a pot of boiling water,
season with carrots, onions, a bunch of parsley, and
young onions, two cloves, bay, thyme, basil, and two
eloves of garlic; give it two hours to cook; draisi,
glaze it, and serve it over an Espagnol.
Gigot en Cherreuil.
Take a leg of motton that has hung a sufficient
tirde ; beat it well, and take of the outer skin; lard
it as a real nuz; put it into an eartben dash, with a
handful of juicper berries, and a little mélulat ; pour
ore it a strong marinade, into which a much greater
quantity of red videgar has been put than is genera, y
tised: let the leg marinade fire or ki dati, drain, and
Toast it ; send it to table with a good påstadt.
Pozvited said of Mution -Salle de Mouton à la
Bruche.
Take a sadde of suution, and break the ribs : roll
the Det, ad skewer them; spit it, and give it an
bour and half and serve it with a dear juice.
Scoise se Muyn ELTNT woy--
Lo Surue Menemuundo
Tete a badut of motor take out the lege mbi
rol the Ethi, tate of the bread over it a
Suite Meward and sew CIUZON Oter, to mucha
out an era part of ruped Pareta kus been
put: batus the suce vit butter, put it into the
OTEL ETE I a funt ODON, and kerte it won a sca
jme


66
FRENCH COOKERY.
plete, turn them lightly upon the larded side, dish
them, put into the stewpan a large spoonful of espag-
nole, detach the glaze, sauce the sweetbreads, and
serve,
Hatelets de ris de Veau.
Prepare and cook the sweetbreads as above with-
out larding ; let them cool, and cut them in slices half
an inch thick; cut a veal's tongue into slices of
the same size, truffles done in butter, and boiled
petit lard; have sauce aux hatelets very hot, and put
in altogether; mix them well and let them cool, then
thread them, mixed upon small skewers ; pare them
that they may be perfectly square; fill up every void,
cover them with the sauce, and dip them into crumbs
of bread in holding them by the ends, then into an
omelet, and again into the crumbs; keep them square;
when ready to serve put them upon a grill over a
slow fire to give them time without too much colour ;
grill on all sides till a fine colour, and serve.-
Sweetbreads in Cases. Ris de Veau en Caisse.
Prepare and cut the sweetbreads in slices, put them
with a bit of butter, parsley, small onions, mush.
rooms, salt, and large pepper, (the herbs must be
minced very fine,) into a stewpan; let them simmer;
have a paper case, the outside must be oiled, either
round or square ; put into the bottoms an inch of
farce cuite; put the case upon a grill or the cover of a
tartpan that the farce may not burn; the case ought
to have a yellow tint; put in the sweetbreads andône
herbs ; sauce with a good espagnole reduced, some
lemon juice, and serve.
Sweetbreads in Jelly. -Petit Aspic de Ris de Veau.
Cook those sweetbreads more than for the hatelets,
cut them in the same manner; and thread them upon
small silver skewers ; make them square; they may
be mixed with truffles; have moulds of silver, or
white iron, which will admit easily the hatelets gar-
nished ; run into these moulds a warm aspic, about
the thickness of two crowns, and let them cool ; any


VEAL.
67
device may be made on these moulds, with truffles,
gherkins, hard white of eggs, anchovies, or leaves
of blanched tarragon; when that is done, put in the
hutelets, put in the sweetbreads lightly above, but
more firm in the middle, then pour in the aspic softly,
till the moulds are filled; let them take, if necessary
put them into ice; when ready to serve, dip the
moulds in hot water; turn them, but do not take off
the moulds till they are arranged upon the dish.
If there is no aspic, put more veal into the sauce-
pan, with the sweetbreads; clarify, and make an aspic
of that stock.
Sweetbreads another way. Ris de Veau à la Poulette.
Cook sweetbreads as directed above; put the ne-
cessary relouté into a stewpan; cut them in slices, do
not do them too much; put them into the velouté,
with mushrooms, already prepared (sauce aux Cham-
pignons) ; let it reduce, and thicken with two or three
yolks of eggs; put in a little blanched minced
parsley, a little butter, lemon juice may be added,
and serve.
Calves' Tail with Peas.--Queues de Veaux aux petit
Pois.
Take some calves' tails, cut them through at the
joints, and make a petit roux; when it is of a fine
colour, put in the tails, turn them in it; the fire must
be moderate, otherwise the rour may burn; when
sufficiently come, moisten with stock; take care that
the sauce is not too thick ; season with salt, a bunch
of parsley, and young onions, a clove, and a bay leaf;
let them simmer till half done; take out the onions
and cloves, put in a sufficient quantity of peas for the
ragoût; let them simmer, till the peas are enough;
take out the bunch of sweetherbs, shake the ragout,
let it boil, skim and serve.
Calves' Tails with Poulette Sauce.Queues de Veaus
à la Poulette.
Prepare the tails as above, degorge them in warm
water ; blanch, and put them in a stewpan, with a bit


68
FRENCH COOKERY.
of butter ; season with parsley, and young onions,
half a clove of garlic, a bay leaf, and some onions ; put
the whole upon the fire, but do not let them brown;
dredge them with a little flour, shake, and moisten
with soup, add salt and pepper ; in cooking, stir
or shake them often, that they may not stick; take
out the sweetbreads and onions, thicken (see liaison),
put in a little blanched minced parsley, with vinegar,
or lemon juice, and serve.
Loin of Veal.-Longe de Veau.
When a large entree is required, the flank part
ought to be rolled under, and the large ends of the
bones chopped off, to make it as square and well-shaped
as possible, and when properly spitted, wrap it up in
several folds of white paper, and butter the outer-
most : the size of the piece, and the fire employed,
must regulate the time it will take to cook.
Fillet of Veal and its uses. -Cuissot de Veau, et la
manières d'en tirer parti.
Take a fillet of veal, and being accustomed to
handle it, it will be perceived that it is formed of
three distinct muscles, which the French name noir,
because they are separated, and not in a general mass ;
the one in the inside is called the noix, (and it is neces-
sary to preserve its name, as there is no suitable term
for it in English ;) this noix is the fattest and most
tender part of the fillet; the cook once understand-
ing what is pointed out, will find the means of sepa.
rating it from the other: the second is the sous noix,
that is what lays farther down, or under; the third
noix is that called the noix pâtissier, which is close to
the tail.
The noix makes an entree, or a first course dish,
the sous noix makes the farce cuite, that
forced meats ; and the noix pâtissier, the godiveau, or
velouté, which is also sauce tournée ; and all that re-
mains when broken, and cut up, may be made into an
Espagnole.
to say,


VEAL.
69
Noir of Veal. Noit de Veau à la Bourgeoise.
Take a noir of veal, with the whole udder attached
to it; put it in a clean linen cloth, flatten it, and lard
it lengthways, with seasoned lard, (see article noir de
bouf et culotte à l'ecarlate ;) bed a stewpan with some
parings of veal, and put in the noir ; surround it with
onions, carrots, parsley, and young onions, moisten
with some good stock or soup, cover it with a strong
buttered paper, and let it boil; cover, and put it upon
a paillasse, with fire over and under ; let it cook from
an hour and a half to two hours; drain it, and strain
the stock and reduce it; glaze the noir, add two
spoonfuls of espagnole to the glaze, to detach it:
skim, and finish with a bit of butter.
If there is no espagnole, a little rour may be made,
and when the noix is glazed, mix it well with the re-
mainder, and put a very little white wine, with some
stock into it : reduce, skim, and finish with a bit of
butter.
The noix may be served upon endive, sorrel, spi-
nage, a purée of onions, small turned roots, or the
stalks of cardoons.
Noir of Veal another way.--Noix de Veau en
Bedeau.
Take a noit of veal as above, prepare it in the
same manner; cover the udder with a slice of bacon,
to preserve it white; cook it in the same way, with fire
over and under; glaze it, and serve it upon chicory,
cucumbers, or sorrel, either in juice or in béchamelle.
Larded Veal Noir.—Noix de Veau piquée.
Beat a noix of veal, take off the udder; pare, and
glide a knife over, to unite it; lard it all over; marque *
it in a stewpan as the above; put the onions under it
to give it a roundish form, moisten with good soup
or stock, but do not wet the lard ; when done, glaze
it, and serve upon an espagnole, or endive.
Veal Grenadins.Grenadins de Veau.
Take a noix of veal, beat, and split it quite through
* Marque is to put it in with the proper ingredients.


70
FRENCH COOKERY,
then beat both lightly, to flatten them a little ; cut
each into three or four pieces, taking care to cut
them in long lozenges; make one piece perfectly
round; cut the lard very equal, and lard the whole;
marque a stewpan with the parings of the veal, two
carrots, and onions cut in two; put a grenadin upon
the largest side of each onion, care must be taken in
arranging them in the stewpan, that they do not
touch each other ; season with parsley, young onions,
a bay leaf, and a clove; moisten with stock, but take
care that it does not rise to the lard ; cover it with
buttered paper, let it boil over a brisk fire, then put
it to simmer, with some very hot cinders over, to
make it take a very fine gold colour ; let it cook an
hour, strain, and glaze it; put it upon a purée of any
sort, either mushrooms, sorrel, endive, &c. dish it
en rose, with the points towards the middle, where the
round is placed.
Manchons à la Gérard.
Prepare a noix as above, and cut it lengthways in
four or five pieces ; let them be rather more than half
an inch thick; beat them with the blade of the hatchet,
then with the back of a knife, and make the strokes
very near each other both ways, so as to cut the fibres
completely; take some quenelles, into which much
white of eggs has not been put, and roll it up in three
pieces of the noir, in the form of rolls, and then cover
them with a thin layer of the same farce; cut the re.
maining slices of the noix into pieces of two fingers'
breadth, lard them carefully, put them upon the ends
of the manchons, stitch them on to keep their form,
cut a small truffle very fine, and powder one with it,
taking care not to touch the larded part ; mince in the
same manner pistachios to powder another, and for
the third sweet almonds ; cover the manchons so as
that the farce may not be perceptible; marque them
in a stewpan with slices of bacon as above, and do
them in the same way, only taking care not to put so
much fire over ; drain, and unstitch them; glaze the
larded ends, and serve upon a good Espagnole, or a
sauce aux truffles.


VEAL.
71
Hátereaur.
Prepare a noix as above, but cut it a little thinner ;
beat, and cut it in pieces of three inches long, and
four broad; lard them with care lengthways, and turn
the larded side down upon a cloth, and cover them
with the following farce. Take as much farce cuite
as will make nine hátereaux, in mixing with it a third
of fat livers, truffles, and mushrooms cut in small
squares; mix it with a wooden spoon, add two or three
yolks of eggs, salt, and fine spiceries ; put this farce
upon the hâtereaux and roll them up in such a man-
ner that the two ends meet; fix them with a skewer,
and fasten them upon the spit, cover them with paper,
and baste them with butter: dish them under a thick
Italienne rousse or blanche; serve.
Popiettes de Veau.
Take part of a noix ; cut it in very thin slices; beat
it well every way, cover with farce cuite of fowl or
veal, roll it up in the same manner as the hâtereaux,
and tie or stitch it to preserve the form ; cover the
stewpan with slices of lard, put them in with a small
ladleful of stock, a glass of good white wine, a bunch
of parsley and young onions; season with a clove, a
clove of garlic, and a little sweet basil ; cook it three
quarters of an hour ; pass the stock through a gauze
search, put in two large spoonfuls of espagnole ; re-
duce, skim, and drain the popiettes; glaze, and serve.
Filets Mignons de Veau.
Take six fillets mignons, lard three, and decorate
the other three with truffle or ham; marque them as
the fricandeau, cook them in the same manner; glaze
and serve them upon a ragoût of endive, sorrel, or
any other.
FORE QUARTER OF VEAL.
Quartier du devant de Veau.
This piece is divided into the shoulder, the breast,
and the back ribs; the French call the breast the
tendons, and the back ribs the quarré or square.
The


72
FRENCH COOKERY.
shoulder may be served roasted, and to make blan-
quettes of it; may also be made into soups, but not
with such advantage as the parts generally used ; this
piece is of great use for the table, as many delicate
dishes are formed from it; the noir, which is bedded
in fat near the neck, is particularly esteemed by the
gourmands.
Blanguettes de Veau.
When a shoulder has been served roasted, cut ofi
the meat in pieces, and flatten with the blade of the
knife ; pare and take off the brown skin and mince it;
reduce some velouté and put in the veal, but do not
let it boil ; thicken with as many yolks of eggs as are
necessary; add verjuice or lemon, and a little bit of
butter; there may be added parsley and young onions
minced ; aná serve.
Tendons of Veal. Tendons de Veau à la Poulette ou
au Blanc.
Take a breast of veal, cut out the tendons which
lie round the front of the breast, from the red bones,
ever which they lay, and cut them into the form
of oysters; degorge, blanch, and refresh them;
cover a stewpan with slices of lard, and some parings
of veal ; put in the tendons, and season with a bunch
of sweet herbs, some slices of lemon, three or four
carrots, with the same quantity of onions ; moisten
with stock, make it boit, let it simmer upon a paillasse,
two or three hours: before taking them up, put in the
point of the knife, if it enters easily they are enough;
drain and serve in every different way.
Tendons of Veal in Peacocks' Tails.--Tendons de
Veau en Queues de Paon.
The same procedure as the above article, only that
the form is to be different ; after flattening the breast,
it is to be cut in pieces of three or four inches, and
narrowed at the upper end, to give them a long heart
shape ; flatten with the blade of the hatchet; degorge,
blanch, cook them as above, with the sole exception
of leaving out the lemon. If there is no sauce to serve


VEAL.
73
them in, pass the stock they have been cooked in
through a gauze search, reduce it and glaze them,
and put into what remains a little bit of rour; melt or
mix them over the fire, moisten with stock and a
quarter of a glass of good white wine, put in ten chips
of mushrooms or trutiles, boil, skim, and strain it;
reduce it to the consistence of sauce; and finish in
putting a bit of butter into it by shaking and vanning i
sauce the tendons, adding small onions, asparagus
tops, or a ragout of mushrooms.
Casserole au Riz.
Pick, wash, and blanch the rice, drain and put it
into a stewpan ; moisten it with the top of the stock
pot by degrees as it swells; shake it often, to pre-
vent its sticking, but in a manner not to break' it;
take care that it is well nourished, that it may be fat
enough ; put in a little salt; when done take a piece
of bread the size of the dish it is to be served upon,
and mould the rice round as if it were paste, and fix
it well upon the dish ; cover the bread with a slice of
bacon; put the rice into a mould that has been buttered
to cover it; close it well, forming it nicely; mark the
cover where it is to be opened when it is done; put it
in a very hot oven, let it take a fine colour; when ready
to serve, take off the top with care, and empty it by
taking out the bread, and fill it with any ragoût that
is suitable, put on the cover and send it to table.
Tendons de Veau en Macédoine.
Prepare these tendons as before, in any shape, and
cook them in the same manner; dish them upon a
macédoine, as indicated at that article.
Tendons de Veau panés et grillés.
Prepare the tendons as oysters or peacocks' tails,
do them in crumbs, either in the French or the
English way, give them a good colour, and serve
them over sauce (pouvrade, paurre homme, or an Ita-
lienne.)
Tendons de Veau à la Mayonnaise.
When the tendons are cooked let them cool and
E


74
FRENCH COOKERY.
pare them; then dress them en cordons around the
dish, make a border of small onions that have been
cooked in soup or stock, and cardoons intermixing with
them, but do not garnish till sauced with a mayon-
naise, and serve.
Tendons de Veau à la Ravigote.
'Prepare the tendons in form of oysters; let them
cool, and pare them ; border the dish with but-
ter; arrange the tendons en cordon, cover with a
cold ravigote ; but if served hot make the border of
bread.
Fried Tendons. Tendons de Veau à la Marinade.
After the tendons are well cooked, put them into
marinade, give them a boil, let them cool, drain them
well, dip them into a light (pâte à fire), put them
carefully into the frying pan, keeping their form; do
not let them run together; let them take a fine co-
lour; lay them on a cloth to drain ; dish, and cover
them with a little fried parsley.
Tendons de Veau à la Villeroy:
Prepare the tendons the same as for the poullette ;
put in rather more thickening, and some lemon ; let
them cool, and cover them well with their sauce;
strew them with crumbs, and dip them into an omelet; |
crumh them a second time, and fry them ; serve them
either over or under fried parsley.
Veal Cutlets. Côtelettes de Veau.
Take some ribs of very white veal, cut them of an
equal size, taking away the back bone; pare the
fillets, take off the skin and nerves, and flatten them
and round them at the broad end ; take off a little of
the flesh at the other end of the bone, and scrape it
with a knife ; see that the bone will not appear too
much when done, if so, cut it shorter ; they may, thus
prepared, be used plain, larded, or any other way.
Another Way.-- Cótelettes Piquées.
Prepare the cutlets as above, preserving the skin,
which must be tied, that it may not shrink from the


75
kurd: lard the cutlet in two rows, cover a stewpan
with the parings, two onions, some carrots, and a
bunch of sweet herbs, moisten with broth, stock, or
water; if water is employed, put in a little salt; cover
with a round of buttered paper, and cook them in the
same manner as granadins; drain and reduce the
stock, and use it to glaze the catlets, and serve upon
Sortel, endive, cucumbers, young pease, love apples,
a purée of mushrooms, or a good Espagnol.
Another Woy. - Citelettes à la Ckingara.
Cut six or seven catlets thicker than directed in
the last article ; lard them with finer lard, intermixed
with ham *; merque them as above, and cook them in
the same manner; after they are done let them cool,
pure them, and cut off the points of the lard, &c.
which project; reduce the stock to glaze, and put in
the cutlets ; take a smoked or reddened neat's tongue,
cut it in thin slices, shaping them to the cutlets ;
warm them in soup, and glaze them; arrange them
altogether on the dish en cordons, intermixing them;
put two large spoonfuls of Espagnol into the stewpan
to detach the gloze; finish with a little bit of butter,
and serve.
The remainder of the neat's tongue may be hashed
and added to the sauce, which in that case ought not
to be boiled ; add a little more butter to render it
smooth: put it into the well of the cutlets, and
serte.
real Cutlets. Cótelettes de recu Sautées.
Take seven cutlets, pare and flatten them; melt a
quarter of a pound of butter, dip in both sides of the
cutlets, and arrange them in such a manner, that they
may not lay over one another, put them over a slow
fire and turn them often; when they are three fourths
done pour off the butter, and add the size of two thumbs
of gleze, and a large spoonful of stock; put them over
a brisk fire, turn them oftea and let them be laid fiat
• Pat sien in tine stew per with the seasoning, as in the fore
gring uticle.


76
FRENCH COOKERY.
in the pan, that the glaze may be able to penetrate,
when they are enough and well glazed, dish them en
cordon ; put a little stock into the sauteuse to detach
the glaze, reduce and put in a bit of butter and
lemon juice; mix all well without boiling by shaking
the pan ; masque, and serve.
Veal Cutlets with Ham. Côtelettes de Veau au
Jambon.
Pare six cutlets as in the preceding article, and
cook them in the same way ; when they are served, put
between them slices of the noix of ham, as the tongue
à l'écarlate was arranged between the cutlets chingar
or ham.
Veal Cutlets. Côtelettes de Veau au Naturel.
Prepare the cutlets and put them with butter, as
above, to grow firm upon the fire: let minced parsley,
butter, and put them on the gridiron; turn them often,
and baste them with melted butter; let them be of
a fine colour ; when they are enough done they will
remain firm when they are pressed with the finger,
dish them and sauce with good beef juice or sauce au
pauvre homme, and serve..
Crumbed Veal Cutlets. Côtelettes de Veau Panées.
The only difference from the above article is, that
after the cutlets have been dipt in butter, they must
be rolled in crumbs and done upon a slower fire.
Veal Cutlets in Paper.
Cótelettes de Veau en
Papillotes.
Prepare the cutlets and put them with butter, as
above, to grow
firm upon
the fire: let minced parsley,
mushrooms, and small onions be added in equal quan.
tities, a little rasped bacon, with salt, pepper, and fine
spices; let them simmer; when enough, take out the
fine herbs and add to them a large spoonful or two of
Espagnol, or velouté, and reduce ; taste if it is good,
and thicken with a sufficient quantity of yolks of
eggs; let it cool : cut the paper covers in the form
of kites, and oil the middles where the cutlets will be
placed; put a very thin slice of bacon upon the
1


VEAL.
77
paper, then half a spoonful of fine herbs upon the
bacon, and lay over it a cutlet, then more herbs, co-
vering them with another slice of bacon ; wrap up the
cutlet, tie the joint with a thread, oil the paper or
papillotes all over, grill them, taking care that the
paper does not burn; let the paper take a fine colour,
untie, and serve.
'Breast of Veal larded. Carré de Veau Piqué.
Take a fine breast of veal, chop off the ends of the
chine-bones, cut slightly the skin lengthways that
covers the fillet, without spoiling it; take the nerve
out, and the skin off that covers it, by gliding the knife
between the skin and the flesh of the fillet ; pare it
well and beat it lightly; then lard it (see Art. Ris de
Veau) and marque it in a stewpan (in the same manner
as the noix de veau); when it is done, glaze and serve
it over any ragoût.
Petites Noix d'Epaule de Veau.
Take fifteen of the small shoulder noir of veal;
blanch, refresh, and pare them, leaving the fat which
generally surrounds them entire ; marque a stewpan
with onions, carrots, parings of veal, herbs, half a bay
leaf, and two cloves; put in the noix, with a little
stock or broth ; cover with slices of bacon and a
round of paper; an hour before serving make them
boil, let them then simmer with fire under and over;
drain, glaze, and serve them upon a purée of mush-
rooms, or any other.
Noix de Veau à la Gendarme.
Pare a noix of veal as for a bedeau; lard the under
side with seasoned lard, and ham ; put it into a deep
dish, and marinade it with onions cut in slices, parsley,
young onions, bay, garlic, thyme and basil, adding
salt, pepper, and oil ; leave it in this marinade twenty-
four hours; spit it with the seasoning; when it is
enough done, let it take a colour, and serve it with a
poivrade sauce.
E 3


78
FRENCH COOKERY.
MUTTON.
The best mutton is that which has the deepest
colour, and the finest white, the leg short and thick:
the male is preferable: it is in season during ten
months, as it is apt to taste of the wool for some
weeks after it is shorn.*
The hind part of Mutton roasted.—Rôt-de-Bif de
Mouton à la Broche.
Take a saddle of mutton, with the haunches ; break
the bones, beat them several times with the blade of
a hatchet; put one of the knuckles through the other,
break the ribs, and roll the flank under, and skewer
them into a good form; take some of the kidney fat
out; put a small skewer into the back marrow ; spit
it, and secure the knuckles well together; put a
skewer through the noix, or thick part of the legs,
and another between, that it may be well secured,
so that it may not turn upon the spit; cover the whole
with buttered paper; it will take to cook from an
hour and half to two hours, which depends upon the
strength of the fire, and the size of the piece; serve
it with juice under or upon (haricots à la bretonne).
Braised leg of Mutton.—Gigot Braisé, ou à la Braise.
Take a good leg of mutton, take out all the bones
but the shank, lard it with great lard, well seasoned
with fine spices, salt, basil in powder, pepper, parsley,
and small onions, minced; tie it up in its own form;
marque pot with some parings of butchers' meat,
five or six onions, and as many carrots; put the
mutton over it, moisten with good broth, and half a
glass of brandy, two bay leaves, three cloves, two
heads of garlic, and a little thyme ; let it boil, cover
it with paper, and simmer with fire over and under :
it will take from four to five hours, drain, glaze, and
serve it, with its juice, or on a ragoût of endive, or
any other.
* The French mutton is generally much smaller than the
English, and this ought to be observed, as where two carrés are
sometimes ordered, one might do.


MITTON.
79
Leg of Mutton à la Gasconne. Gigot à la Gasconne.
Take a leg as above, lard it with a dozen of heads
of garlic, and a dozen of anchovies in fillets; cook it
on the spit, and serve it with a ragout of garlic, pre-
pared as follows ; pick a pint of garlic, blanch it by
giving it several boils, when nearly done, throw it
into fresh water; drain and put into a stewpan four
or five spoonfuls of reduced Espagnol, and two of
beef juice; put in the garlic, reduce, and serve it
under the mutton.
Boiled leg of Mutton.Gigot à l'eau.
Put a leg of mutton into a pot of boiling water,
season with carrots, onions, a bunch of parsley, and
young onions, two cloves, bay, thyme, basil, and two
cloves of garlic; give it two hours to cook; drain,
glaze it, and serve it over an Espagnd.
Gigot en Chetreuil.
Take a leg of mutton that has hung a sufficient
time; beat it well, and take off the outer skin; lard
it as a veal noiz; put it into an earthen dish, with a
handful of juniper berries, and a little mélilot ; pour
over it a strong marinade, into which a much greater
quantity of red vinegar has been put than is generally
used ; let the leg marinade five or six days, drain, and
roast it; send it to table with a good poitrade.
Roasted saddle of Mutton.- Sele de Mouton à la
Broche.
Take a saddle of mutton, and break the ribs; roll
the fillets, and skewer them ; spit it, and give it an
hour and half, and serve it with a clear juice.
Saddle of Mution another way.-- Selle de Mouton à
la Sainte Menéhould.
Take a saddle of mutton, take out the large ribs,
roll the fillets, take off the skin, spread over it a
Sainte Menéhould, and strew crumbs over, into which
about an eighth part of rasped Parmesan has been
put; baste the saddle with butter; put it into the
oven, give it a fine colour, and serve it upon a clear
juice.


80
FRENCH COOKERY.
Fillets of Mutton. -Petites Selles de Mouton, ou de
Carbonnades.
Cut out three carrés of mutton between the haunch
• and the ribs, what is called the fillet ; cut each into
two long hearts, or peacocks' tails ; pare the skin and
nerves off three of them, and lard, and marque them
with the others, in the same manner as the saddle à
la Sainte Menéhoulde; when they are done drain them
upon a cover, take off the skin of those that were not
larded, and that which remained of the others; dry
them a little with a hot poker, glaze the whole, and
serve them with a ragoût of small roots, endive, purée
of sorrel, or a love apple sauce.
Fore-quarter of Mutton.—Rouchis de Mouton.
Take a fore-quarter of mutton ; begin by boning the
breast and the ribs, then take the side ribs quite out,
as well as the chine and the neck, that nothing may
remain but the blade bone; fix it in its form by
skewers, spit it like a shoulder, paper it, give it near
an hour, and serve it upon (haricots à la bretonne,) or
upon a ragoût of celery.
Shoulder of Mutton in a ball. -Epaule de Mouton en
Ballon.
Take a large shoulder of mutton without spoiling the
carre'; bone it entirely ; season great lard with salt,
pepper, fine spices, parsley, and small onions hashed,
and powdered aromatics put through a search; roll
the lard well in this seasoning, lard the meat without
piercing the skin, then with a needle and thread
draw up the skin round the shoulder, and form it as
a button into a ball; marque a stewpan with carrots,
onions, a bay leaf, thyme, basil, and the bones of the
shoulder, which must be broken ; put in the ball upon
the sewed side, moisten with bouillon, and cover it
with some slices of bacon, and a round of paper;
let it boil, and put it for two or three hours upon
the paillasse, with fire under and over, or under a
furnace; when ready to send to table glaze it, serve
it on a purée of sorrel or tomate, (une chicorée blanche
1
1
!


MUTTON.
81
au jus,) a ragoût of small roots, or an espagnole that
has been mixed with the remainder of the glaze.
Mutton Cutlets.-Côtelettes de Mouton au Naturel.
Take the ribs of mutton, which the French call
carré ; cut the cutlets equally in two ribs, if it is large
divide them, cut them from side to side, and separate
them with the hatchet; take off the back bone, and
from the fillet side, take off the skin, and the
nerves that cover them, flatten them a little, and
pare
them anew; scrape the inside with the back of the
knife, cut the end of the bone, take off the flesh at
the point of the bone, and clear it nearly half an inch;
melt some butter, dip in the cutlets, and put them
upon the gridiron; turn them often, that the juice
may not be lost ; serve them over a clear juice.
Cutlets with Crumbs.--Cotelettes de Mouton panées.
Prepare as above, dip them in butter, and strew
crumbs over; grill with care, and serve without sauce.
Cutlets in a Minute.--Cótelettes de Mouton à la
Minute.
Prepare twelve cutlets as above; put them into a
sauteuse with melted butter; put them on the fur-
nace, turn them often ; when they are done drain
them from the butter; put in a small piece of glaze
and a large spoonful of stock; shake and turn them;
let them be well seasoned with their juice; when they
are well glazed dish them en cordon; put in another
spoonful of stock to detach the glaze ; add a small
bit of good butter; mix the whole by shaking ; pour
the sauce over the cutlets, and serve.
Cutlets of Mutton another way.-~Cótelettes de Mouton
à la Jardinière.
Prepare these as above, and dress them in the
same manner; make a ragoût of every kind of turned
root, mushrooms, haricots, and green pease, all cooked
in soup; the haricots and pease must be very green;
put into a stewpan three or four large spoonsful of
Espagnol ; put in the vegetables ; let it simmer, and
reduce; skim and finish with a bit of butter and a little
E 5


82
FRENCH COOKERY.
grated sugar; put this ragoût in the middle, and
over it a fine branch or small cauliflower.
Cutlets with Endive.--Côtelettes de Mouton à la
Chicorée.
Cook and dress these cutlets as the above, putting in
the middle a reduced chicory roux, or blanc.
Cutlets in Soubise.-- Cótelettes à la Soubise.
Cut these cutlets from between the bones ; pare
and flatten them a little; lard them with small lard
and ham equally; marque a stewpan with the parings
of the cutlets, three or four onions, two carrots, and
a bunch of parsley and small onions, well seasoned;
put in the cutlets, with as much stock as will nearly
cover them; cover with slices of bacon, and over all
a strong buttered paper; let them boil, and put them
on a paillosse, with fire under and over ; when done
drain, pare anew, as also the lard that projects; put
the stock through a gauze search ; reduce it nearly i
to a glaze; return the cutlets into it; turn and glaze
them on both sides; dish en cordon, and put in the
middle a nice purée of onions ; border the dish with
small onions, which have been cooked in stock; if
the onions are well fixed, a branch of raw parsley
may be stuck in each, and serve.
Breast of Mutton.Carré de Mouton à la Servante.
Take two breasts of mutton; take off the skin, and
pare the fillets; lard them as directed at (carbonnades),
one of lard and the other branches of parsley ; spit
them, and give them from half to three-quarters of an
hour, basting them often; dish them with the fillets
i
outward, and send them to table with a clear juice.
Breast of Mutton in FricandeauCarré de Mouton i
en Fricandeau.
Take a carré and lard it with fine lard, and put into
the stewpan the parings and any other remains of
butchers' meat; lay the carré over them; add two
carrots, two onions, and a bunch of sweet herbs;
moisten the whole with a ladleful of bouillon, and
cover with buttered paper ; finish in the same manner
as the granadins de veau : when done drain it, take


MUTTON.
83
off the skin that covered the sides, and glaze the
the fillet, or the whole of the carré ; send it to table
upon a purée of sorrel, or a ragout of chicory.
Small Fillets of Mutton.--Filets mignons de Mouton.
Take twelve small fillets of mutton ; pare and lard
them; marque them in the same manner as the car-
bonnades ; glaze, and serve them upon a ragout of
cucumber, or any other.
Minced Mutton with Cucumbers.-Emincé de Filets
de Mouton aux Concombres.
Take the noix from a cold roasted leg of mutton,
free it from the skin and fat, cut it in fillets of an inch
and half square; mince these fillets, and mix them
into a boiling reduced mince of cucumbers, taking
care that it does not boil after the mutton is put in ;
it may also be served with endive.
Hashed Mutton.--Hachis de Mouton a la Portugaise.
Prepare as above, but hash the mutton more; have
some Espagnol reduced to half glaze, put in the
mince, shake it well over the fire. It must not boil;
put in a bit of butter and large pepper: if the hash
is not thick enough put in a bit of glaze ; have a dish
bordered to serve it up in; sprinkle it with a little
reduced Espagnole, and lay over it eight or ten
poached eggs.
Haricot of Mutton. Haricot de Mouton à la Bour.
geoise.
Cut a breast of mutton in pieces, put them into
a saucepan with butter, and let them take a fine
colour over a brisk fire ; when done drain them, and
put carrots and turnips which have been prepared
into the stewpan, and give them a good colour ;
drain them ; have ready a roux, put in the mutton, set
it on the fire, and moisten it; season with pepper,
salt, a bunch of sweet herbs, two onions, one clove,
a bay-leaf; add the turnips and carrots ; when three-
fourths done, let it simmer; skim it; if the sauce is
too thin, take out some, and reduce it : dish the
haricot, cover it with the vegetables, and serve.
E 6


84
FRENCH COOKERY.
Breasts of Mutton.--Poitrines de Mouton.
Take two breasts of mutton, cut off the ends of the
flanks and the red bones of the breast ; nick the
joints, and put it to cook with a good seasoning, in
the stock pot, or in a brazière ; it will be enough
when the ribs come easily out; take off the upper
skin, pare again, and round the flanks, strew crumbs
over it, season with salt and pepper; grill, and serve
with sauce (au pauvre homme).
Necks of Mutton.--Collets de Moutons à la Sainte
Menéhould.
Take two necks of mutton, pare the ends care-
fully, cut the points, and marque them in a braize ; if
there is none, put into a stewpan parings of butchers
meat, some chips or slices of bacon, three carrots,
three onions, one of them stuck with a clove, two
bay-leaves, thyme, basil, two cloves of garlic, a bunch
of parsley, young onions, and salt; moisten with soup
or water ; cover with buttered paper ; let them boil
and cook upon a paillasse two or three hours, with
fire over and under ; when enough pare them, cover
them with a Sainte Menéhould ; strew them with
crumbs, mixed with a little rasped parmesan; sprinkle
it again, and put it into an oven to take a colour ;
dish, and sauce it with a brown Italienne.
Necks of Mutton Grilled.—Collets de Moutons Grillés.
Take three half necks of mutton, cut off the bloody
ends, blanch and cook them in the stock pot; when
they are enough, strew crumbs of bread over; grill
them nicely; send them to table with sauce (au pauvre
homme, or a poivrade).
Mutton Tails with Endive. Quieues de Moutons
Glacées à la Chicorée.
Take five fat mutton tails and degorge them in
warm water, blanch and cook them in a braise as the
necks of mutton ; drain, wipe, and joint them, dry them
with a hot poker, glaze and serve upon endive, spinage,
a purée of sorrel, or any other ragoût.
Hotch Potch of Mutton Tails. Queues de Moutons
en Hoche-pot.
Take six mutton tails, blanch and braise them with
1


MUTTON.
85
Dearly half a pound of bacon cut in large dice, on
which the skin has been left; carrots and turnips,
with some celery and small onions; blanch these, and
cook them by themselves in soup: it is necessary that
each vegetable shouid be done to its point, and that
their stock should be reduced to glaze : put into a
stew-pan a sufficient quantity of espagnole, with the
vegetables, and the lard which has been taken from the
braise; skim the vegetables, and let them reduce;
dish and put the tails upon them; if the tails have
not been glazed, then it will be necessary to dish
them under the ragoit.
Mutton Tails.
—Queues de Moutons au Scdeil.
Cook six mutton tails in a braise, let them cool;
cover them with a cold sauce: (qui hatelettex); roil them
in crumbs, and dip them into an omelet; roll them
again in crumbs, and fry them of a fine colour ; serve
them upon a bunch of fried parsley dressed to a point.
Mutton Tails in Chesnut Soup. -Terrine de Queues
de Moutons.
Braise six sheeps' tails, add to them a pound of
the breast of bacon; prepare, bone, and poele six or
eight turkeys' pinions : take a hundred chesnuts, shell
them, put them into a sauce-pan with about the size
of an egg of butter; toss them upon the fire till the
inner skin separates ; take them oit, put them into a
stew-pan with broth to cook: when they are done
take the blemished ones and pound them; when the
tails are done, run a part of the braise through a
gauze search, and use it to moisten the purée of ches-
nuts; rub them through a search as any other purie;
then reduce in adding a large spoonful of espagnole ;
skim it; drain the tails and pinions; dish in a tureen
with petit lard, cut into large dice, and the whole
chesnuts; finish the purée with a bit of butter; taste
if it is good, and put it over the meat in the tureen.
Grilled Kidneys. — Rognons de Moutons à la Bro-
chette.
Take twelve kidneys, give them a slight cut round


86
FRENCH COOKERY.
the middle, that the skin may be taken off; split
them, but not entirely, and spit them with wooden
skewers, cross ways, to keep them open; grill, turn-
ing them constantly;when they are done, take out the
skewers; dish, and put into each a little cold maitre-
d'hôtel ; warm the dish, and squeeze a little lemon
juice over.
Kidneys in Champagne. — Rognons de Moutons au
vin de Champagne ou à l'Italienne.
Skin fifteen kidneys, and mince them; put them
into a stew-pan with the size of an egg of butter; do
them upon a brisk fire till they are hardened ; drain
them, and put them into an italienne sauce, with half a
glass of Champagne, which has been reduced nearly
to glaze ; finish by shaking them in this sauce without
allowing them to boil
Animelles de Moutons.
Skin two pair of those ; cut them in slices, the size
of the little finger, and about half the thickness.
Marinade them in lemon juice, salt, pepper, branches
of parsley, and onions; drain when ready to serve;
dredge and fry till they are crisp, and serve with or
without fried parsley.
Spinal Marrow. Amourettes ou Moelle Alongé
de Mouton.
Proceed in the same manner as directed for veal.
Mutton Brains. Cervelles de Moutons.
These brains, though less delicate than those of
veal, are dressed in the same manner, and often
served instead of them.
Mutton Tongues in Paper. - Langues de Mouton
en papillotes.
Take a dozen of sheeps' tongues, degorge and
blanch them a quarter of an hour ; refresh and drain
them; take off the skin; cover a stew-pan with slices
of bacon, and marque it with onions, carrots, parsley,
young onions, a clove of garlic, and a bay leaf, mois-
ten with bouillon ; make it boil and sinimer three
.


MUTTON.
87
hours ; let the tongues cook in the braise; then pre-
pare little paper bags, such as grocers turn and pinch
at the bottom, which the French call cornets, from their
resemblance to horns; they must be oiled on the
outsides; hash two handfuls of mushroom chips, with
half as much parsley and young onions ; put all into
a stew-pan, with half a pound of butter, salt, pepper,
fine spices, and a quarter of a pound of rasped lard;
pass and let them cook slowly; shake them that they
may not stick; when nearly done put in two large
spoonfuls of velouté; let them simmer, thicken with
three yolks of eggs, and pour it over the tongues;
put one into each cornet, and fill them them up with
fine herbs; close them firmly, and put them on the
grill over a slow fire ; turn them carefully that they
may take a good colour.
Mutton Tongues in Forced Meat. —Langues de
Mouton au Gratin.
Cook in a braise, as in the foregoing article, a suf-
ficient quantity of sheeps' tongues ; let them cook in
the same manner that they may taste of the season-
ing; take (farce cuite) and cover the dish (see gra-
tin); cut the tongues in two without separating them;
put them on the farce, and cover them with it in such
a manner, that they shall keep their form, and garnish
with the same; unite all well together, and cover
lightly with melted butter; put a border round the
dish of bread that has been cut in the form of corks,
to preserve their shape ; put it into the oven, or with
fire over and under to gratiner; take care that it has
a fine colour, without burning ; when ready to serve,
take out the bread, and substitute more that has been
fried in butter, of a fine colour ; sauce with a good
italienne reduced.
Mutton Tongues, another way.—Langues de Mou-
tons à la Bretonne ou en Crépine.
Cook eight tongues in a braise as they are done in
the foregoing articles ; cut fifteen large onions in
slices; put into a stew-pan a quarter of a pound of


88
FRENCH COOKERY.
butter with the onions, and when they brown a little,
dust in some flour, and let it brown with them ; mois-
ten with espagnole ; put in a little more flour; season
with salt, pepper, and fine spices ; let them reduce to
the consistence of strong stock, and let them cool :
take some pig's fraise or cauls, soak them in water;
cut the tongues in two and take off the points ; cut the
fraise in pieces; lay on each a spoonful of bretonne,
and over it half a tongue, which is to be covered with
bretonne ; wrap it up so close that nothing may es-
cape, and give them the form of large flat sausages;
let them be grilled for a quarter of an hour; before
serving, turn and give them a fine colour.
Mutton Tongues with Parmesan. · Langues de Mou-
tons au Parmesan.
Let the tongues be cooked in a braise with very
little salt ; cut them in two; put a little espagnole or
velouté in the dish, and cover it with about the thick-
ness of a crown of rasped Parmesan ; arrange the
tongues over the Parmesan ; wet them with espagnole
or velouté, and strew crumbs of bread mixed with
Parmesan, about the same quantity as was put into
the dish; baste with butter and put it into the oven,
or with fire under and over, till they are of a fine
colour.
Langues de Moutons à la Matelote.
Braise and mask with a sauce à la matelote.
Sheep's Trotters. Pieds de Mouton à la Poulette.
Take the necessary quantity of sheeps' trotters ; pre-
pare and clean them with great care; cook them in a
blanc; when they are enough done, drain and put
them into a stew-pan with a sufficient quantity of ve-
louté ; seasoned with salt, pepper, and a little minced
blanched parsley; let them stew, and when ready
to serve, thicken with the yolks of three eggs, and a
little verjuice or lemon.
If there is no velouté, make a little white roux; moist-
en with broth, and put in a bunch of sweet herbs, two
onions, two cloves, a little garlic, a bay leaf, and some
1
1


LAMB.
89
mushroom chips: let this sauce cook at least three
quarters of an hour, turning it carefully; take out the
onions; put the sauce through a tammy ; let it reduce,
and throw in the trotters: finish as above, only in
this case, it must be finished with a bit of butter.
Trotters in Sauce. Pieds de Moutons à la Sauce
Rohert.
Prepare the feet as above; put them into a sauce
Robert; let them stew, season them, and finish with a
little mustard.
Trotters another Way. - Pieds de Moutons à la
Ratigote.
Prepare the trotters as above, and masque them
with a cold ratigote.
LAMB.
Lamb is in season from the latter end of December
to the beginning of April, and none is reckoned deli-
cate but such as have been entirely fed upon milk;
it ought to be chosen white, fat, and thick.
Lambs' Heads. —Tétes d' Agneaux à la Poulette.
Take two lambs' heads, take out the jaw-bones, lift
up the skin, and cut out the bone close to the eyes ;
degorge, blanch, and singe them; rub them with
lemon to make them white; cook them for two hours
in a blanc, take care that they are not over done;
drain and take off the skull; take out the brains ;
pick off the skin and veins ; skin the tongues; cut them
in two; cut the ears; dish and sauce them with a good
poulette.
They may be served with a green hollandaise ; the
pluck or haslet may also be served with the head, cut
in large scollops, and the feet for garnishing with
the same sauce.
Têtes d Agneaux à l Italienne.
Do the heads as in the foregoing article, and serve
with a good italienne.


90
FRENCH COOKPRY.
!
Stuffed Lambs' Ears. — Oreilles d'Agneaux, farcies et
frites.
Take fifteen lambs' ears ; singe, blanch and stew
them in a blanc; drain and let them cool ; fill them
with ( farce cuiie); give them a good form ; roll them
in crumbs of bread; dip them in an omelet; roll them
again in crumbs, and lay them upon the cover of a
stew-pan; a few minutes before serving, fry them,
taking care the pan is not too hot, so that the farce
may be done; but towards finishing, increase the heat
to give them a good colour; drain them upon a cloth,
and serve with fried parsley under and over them.
Another Way. — Oreilles d' Agneaux à la Ravigote.
Take the same quantity of ears that have been
prepared in the same manner; they must be very white;
drain and serve them under a (ravigote), hot or cold.
Oreilles d'Agneaux à l'Italienne.
Lambs' ears may be served in the same manner
with an italienne.
Lambs' Feet. Pieds d'Agneaux à la Poulette.
Lambs' feet à la poulette the same as directed for
sheeps' trotters.
Saddle of Roast Lamb. — Rosbif d'Agneau.
Take a saddle of lamb with the haunches; take the
skin off the fillets; take also a little from the middle
of each haunch, which with the fillets must be larded;
it is then to be cooked as directed for the rosbif of
mutton; when dished, the larded parts are to be!
glazed, send it to table, with gravy under it.
Roasted Fore-quarter of Lamb.- Quartier du devant
d'Agneau à la Broche.
Take a quarter of lamb, cover it with thin slices of
bacon, excepting the shoulder and breast; wrap it up
in buttered paper; when done, lift the shoulder near
the breast, and put in without its being perceptible, a
cold maître d'hôtel, and send it to table upon a clear
juice.
Lamb. Epigrammes d Agneau. ,
Take a fore-quarter of lamb; take off as small a
1
1


LAMB.
91
shoulder as possible ; cut the ribs as directed for
mutton cutlets ; make five or six of the carré, and
as many tendons; cover a stew-pan with slices of
bacon ; put in the parings of the cutlets, a carrot cut
in four, an onion, a little parsley, and young onions,
a clove, half a bay leaf, and a little salt; put in the
tendons, cover them with a slice of bacon, moisten
with soup or stock, and cover them with buttered
paper; make them boil upon a quick fire, then upon a
paillasse with fire over and under, and let them simmer
three-quarters of an hour; cut the cutlets; pare and
dip them in melted butter; dress them into a sauté-
pan, and cover them with buttered paper: in the mean
time, the shoulder ought to be either roasted, or
stewed in a little butter with its own juice, and left to
cool; take off the meat, and pick out the sinews;
skin, mince, and put into a stew-pan, three large spoon-
fuls of reduced velouté, and a dozen of minced mush-
rooms; toss the cutlets; drain the tendons, and give
them the shape of a heart: having passed and repassed
them in two yolks of eggs, which have been mixed with
melted butter, and a little salt; grill them of a fine co-
lour; glaze and dish them en couronne ; in mixing
them alternately with a tendon, put the mince into
the sauce; thicken this blanquette without letting it
boil; finish with a little bit of butter and lemon juice;
put it in the well, and send it to table.
If there is no sauce to make the blanquette, stew
the tendons before ; fry a dozen mushrooms in but-
ter; dredge a little butter over; moisten with the
gravy
of the tendons, which must be put through a gauze
search or a cloth ; let it reduce to the consistence of
sauce ; skim and put it through a tammy; put in the
mince, and finish the blanquette as is directed above.
Tendons of Lamb with Asparagus.— Tendons d'Ag-
neau aux pointes d'Asperges.
Take two breasts of lamb; marque them in a stew-
pan with parings veal as the epigrammes ; drain and
put them between two covers and let them cool; cut


PORK.
93
Shoulders of Lamb Stuffed. — Epaule d' Agneau en
Musette.
Take two shoulders of lamb as large as possible ;
bone them entirely except the knuckles; spread them
out; season the inside with salt, pepper, and fine spi-
ces; fill them with a good salpiçon ; make them up
round as a tailor does a button; lard en rosette * the
outsides of the shoulders, or instead a small bit of
farce cuite, which may be decorated with truffles or
chardons, &c. Then marque a stew-pan with bones
and parings of butcher's meat, slices of ham, carrots,
onions, and a bunch of parsley and young onions ;
season it; moisten the braise with soup or stock;
cover with slices of bacon and buttered paper ; let it
boil; put it upon a paillasse with fire over and under ;
give it an hour and half; drain and glaze what has
been larded; if they have not been larded, glaze round
where it should have been done ; serve them over an
Italienne sauce or good espagnole.
PORK.
Choose pork young and fat, and take care it is not
diseased, for in that case, it is very unhealthy.
Pig's Head. — Hure de Cochon.
Cut the head down half the shoulders, that is, farther
than they are generally done; singe very carefully,
and clean the ears by introducing a poker nearly red
to burn the hair; wash it well ; clean it again ; scrape
and bone it; be careful not to pierce the skin, parti-
cularly that over the nose ; the pieces of meat that
are cut off, must be laid on where there is none, that
it may be equally thick; then put it in a large earthen
vessel; make salt water; let it cool; draw it off clear,
and pour it over the hure; let it be entirely covered ;
put in a handful of juniper berries, bay leaves, five or
six cloves, two or three cloves of garlic (cut in two),
half an ounce of powdered salt-petre, thyme, basil and
sage; cover the vessel with a cloth, and put on the co-
ver as close as possible: let it marinade eight or ten
* En rosette is to do them in a rose or fanciful figure.


94
FRENCH COOKERY.
days; then drain and make a farce to put in it ; skin,
and take out the sinews of some pork, and nearly the
the same quantity of bacon; season with salt and fine
spices; hash it very fine, that the lard may not be
distinguishable ; pound it well, and put in five or six
eggs, one after the other ; try the farce by poaching a
little, and remedy what may be amiss: spread the
head upon a clean cloth; pick off all the seasonings;
take large lard that has been very well seasoned
with salt, pepper, four spices* aromatics in powder,
parsley and young onions hashed; arrange again the
head properly, lay these lardons along from distance to
distance well mixed with the farce to the thickness of
an inch; put in the tongue which has been pared
and skinned ; make another bed of lard, and between
them put in truffles cleaned and cut in stripes, inter-
mixed with pistaches ; continue in this manner till all
the ingredients prepared have been put in, then sew
the head together, in its natural form, wrapt in a new
cloth ; sew it up and tie the two ends with pack
thread; make a good braise adding three bottles of
red burgundy, and stock, as it must be covered; let it
boil, and cover it with several buttered papers ; put on
the cover and set it upon a paillasse, with fire over and
under ; let it do five or six hours, that depends upon
the size and age; if a larder enters easily it is enough;
take off the braisière, and leave the head till almost
cold ; take it out and let it cool in the cloth; undo it
and wipe off all the fat, take off the packthread, and
pare the neck: serve it upon a napkin.
Pig's Head. Hure de Cochon à la Maniere de
Troyes.
The only difference is, that instead of filling it with
forced meat it is filled with pork after having taken
out the sinews: truffles and pistaches may be put
in; the cooking is entirely the same.
Ham. -Jambon au Naturel.
Take a good Westphalia ham ; pare it, taking away
what is spoilt ; take out the great bone, and cut the
* Nutmeg, cloves, ginger, and allspice.
1


PORK
95
end off the knuckle; lay it to steep to take out the
salt; by putting the larder into the nois, it will be
known whether it is enough dessalé, viz. whether the
salt has been sufficiently taken out; if not, let it re-
main a little longer; wrap it in a cloth, put into a pot
with water, four or five carrots, the same quantity of
onions, four cloves, three bay leaves, two or three
cloves of garlic, one or two bunches of parsley, thyme
and basil ; let it boil, and then let it do on a slow fire ;
sound it with a larder, if it enters easily, it is enough;
take it off and tighten the cloth, leave it till half cold,
take off the skin; pare and pannez it with crumbs
passed through a search; send it to table upon a
napkin.
Braised Ham-Jambon Braisé.
Take a ham and pare the under part; cut off the
knuckle, and pare off the yellow lard; bone it without
injuring the ham; dessallez it, that is to say, steep it
to take out the salt; tie it up in a cloth, and put it into
a braisière of a size to fit it; after having put in the
braising ingredients as above, moisten with water, and
when about half done, put in a bottle of Madeira or a
glass of brandy and a bottle of champagne ; leave
the cover of the braisiere off, that the seasoning may
reduce; sound to know if it is enough ; drain and
put it upon a cover ; take off the skin; glaze with a
reduction of veal. If there is none sift a little sugar
over it, and glaze in the oven or with a hot poker ;
give it a good colour ; serve it upon spinage or any
other vegetable.
Roasted Ham.-Jambon à la Broche.
Pare the ham on the under side, and cut it quite
round, so that it may have a good form; steep it
to take out the salt; put it into an earthen vessel with
slices of onions, carrots, and two bruised bay leaves;
pour over it a bottle and a half of Malaga or any
other Spanish wine or champagne; cover it with
a cloth, and shut it as close as possible ; leave it to
marinade twenty-four hours; spit it and let it cook,


96
FRENCH COOKERY.
basting it with the seasoning; when nearly done, take
off the skin ; glaze with an anglaise (see Anglaise);
pannez it; let it take a fine colour ; when the ham is
taken up to take off the skin, pass the marinade
through a gauze search; reduce it to the consistence
of sauce, and serve it under the ham.
Chine of Pork.—Echinée de Cochon.
Take a chine of pork, pare it as a carré of veal ;
chop off the back bones, and two hours before spitting
it powder it all over with salt; see that it is well done,
and serve under it a poivrade.
Pork Cutlets. Côtelettes de Cochon, sauce Robert.
Cut the cutlets from fresh pork like those of veal;
flatten, pare, and strew a little salt all over them; grill
them; let them be well done and serve with a sauce
Robert.
Pigs' Ears.- Oreilles de Cochons en Menu-de-Roi.
Take three porks' ears ; singe thenı and put into
them a poker nearly red to singe out all the hairs;
scrape them well and wash them in several waters;
blanch and cook them in a braise; when done let
them cool; cut them in equal fillets ; divide six large
onions ; take off the head, tail, and heart; cut them
in fillets or half-rings; put them into a stew-pan with
a bit of butter ; pass and let them cook ; don't let them
take the least colour; moisten with two or three large
spoonfuls of espagnole, a spoonful of beef juice, or
(ālond de veau); let the onions simmer ; skim, and at
the moment of serving throw in the menu-de-roi ;
put in salt, if it requires it, with some mustard, and
a little vinegar ; masque the ears and serve.
Pigs Ears-Oreilles de Cochons à la purée.
Prepare four or five pigs' ears as directed above;
stew them in a braise; drain and masque them with
a purée of pease, lentiles, or any other.
Pigs' Tails.- Queues de Cochons à la
purée.
Pigs' tails are cooked and sent to table with purées
in the same manner as the ears.


PORK.
97
Another way:
Pigs' Feet. Pieds de Cochons à la Sainte Menéhould.
Prepare four pigs' feet by cleaning, singing, and
blanching them; cut them in two, and then bind them
together with tapes, sewing them at each end, that
they may not shrink or open ; let them be cooked
in a braise ; when they are enough drain them, and
when cold take off the tapes and separate them; dip
them in butter scarcely melted; strew over crumbs,
and grill them ; send them to table without any sauce.
-Pieds de Cochons aux Truffes.
They are to be done as the above; when half cold
take off the tapes ; put each upon a bit of caul, as
large as will wrap over them; having boned and filled
them with a salpicon of volaille and truffles, wrap
them up in the form of a pied de sainte menéhould, and
grill them over a gentle fire.
Maniire de faire ou préparér le Lard.
Take the lard off the pig as free of flesh as possible ;
dry and pound fine salt and rub it with it; put two
and two together; then lay them over each other
upon a plank (in a cool cellar, which must not be
damp); strew them over with salt, and lay another
plank over them, on which lay a sufficient quantity of
weights ; leave it in that state at least a month; skewer
it, and hang it in an airy place to dry, that it may get
very firm, otherwise it will not be fit for lard.
Salt Pork.-Petit Salé.
Take the breasts of pork and cut them in pieces ;
rub them with fine salt which has been mixed with a
little saltpetre; pack them into an earthen vessel very
closely to prevent any air from getting in; cover the
vessel with a cloth between it and the cover ; it will be
ready in eight or ten days.
To melt Lard. -Sain Doux.
Skin a hog's caul; beat it well with a wooden
spatula, the thicker it is the better ; put it into a
stew pan with a little water, and let it boil long
over a slow fire that it may be well done; when
enough it is easily broken with the fingers; let it cool
F


98
FRENCH COOKERY.
nearly, and rub it through a search; if it is not for im-
mediate use put it in a cool place or in bladders.
To make Hams. -Manière de faire le Jambon.
According to the quantity of hams let a saumure* be
made; put into it all sorts of odoriferous herbs, as
sage, basil, thyme, bay, balm, juniper berries, salt, and
saltpetre; to these add the good lees of wine, with the
same quantity of water ; leave them some days, and
then draw off the marinade* clear from the other ingre-
dients; put a little water over, and wring out the
herbs; add it to the other; arrange the hams and
shoulders into an earthen vessel, and pour over the
saumure; leave them in it for three weeks or a month;
take them out; drain and wipe them; hang them in
the smoke; when they are very dry and enough
smoked preserve them by rubbing with half wine and
half vinegar, that the flies may not spoil them.
Smoked Tongues. Langues de Porcs fumées et
fourrées.
Take the quantity of pork tongues to be preserved;
cut off a part of the throat and the skin; put them in
a vessel very closely together as they are rubbed with
salt and salt-petre; put in basil, bay, thyme, juniper,
and shalots if approved; press them well down, put
a weight over them, and cover them very closely from
the air ; put them in a fresh place for eight days;
after that time drain them, and put them into hog, beef,
or veal puddings; tie them at each end and smoke them.
They are cooked in water with a little wine, a
bunch of parsley and young onions, onions thyme, bay,
and basil. These tongues are served cold.
To roast a Pig.--Cochon de Lait.
A pig ought to be young. short, and fat; nick the nape
off the neck, and make four incisions upon the buttock to
lace
up
the tail;
; pass three skewers to form it as a hare
in gite; put it into fresh water ; drain and leave it to
dry ; singe it if any hairs remain; when it has warmed
used Saumure and marinade, term: for different pickling liquors
much by the French.


PUDDINGS.
99
on the spit baste it with oil with a feather brush, that
the skin may be crisp; this must be done often ; when
it is taken from the spit give the skin a nick round the
throat to keep the skin crisp.
Stuffed Pig Cochon de Lait en Galatine.
When the pig has been thoroughly prepared, bone it
all excepting the feet, taking care to preserve the
skin whole; have ready a farce cuite; spread out the
pig upon a cloth, and put the farce over it about the
thickness of a finger, and strew large lard ; intermix it
with fillets of truffle, omelets, of yolks of eggs, pistaches,
sweet almonds, and the noix or nice part of cooked
ham ; cover this with the same thickness of farce, and
continue to fill till the skin is full without being too
much distended; give it as much as possible the
original form; sew it together; fix the feet as for the
spit; rub it with lemon; cover with lard, and wrap
it in a new towel, which must be sewed; tie the ends;
marque* a braise with the refuse of the pig, some slices of
ham, a knuckle of veal cut in two, two cloves of garlic,
two bay leaves, carrots, onions, parsley, and young
onions ; put in the pig; moisten with a good bouillon,
and a bottle of vin de grave; let it boil; draw it to
the side of the stove, and let it cook slowly for three
hours; put a part of the braise through a gauze
search ; if it is not coloured enough, put in a little
beef juice reduced; and clarify it as is directed for
the aspic; when cold take off the cloth and dish the
pig with a border of the aspic, cut in diamonds,
and dressed round the dish en cordon.
Blood Pudding-Boudin ordinaire.
Cook twelve onions in bouillon or consommé with
parsley, young onions, thyme, basil, and a bay-leaf;
hash them very fine; take four pints of blood that
has been properly taken from the throat of the animal ;
put in a little vinegar to prevent it from curdling ; cut a
pound and a half of the caul in dices; put it into the
Marque, is to dress ingredi properly in a stewpan.-
Masque, is to cover over with sauce, &c.
F 2


100
FRENCH COOKERY,
blood with four pints of rich cream, hashed fine herbs,
fine spices, salt, and pepper, mix all well together;
take the puddings of hogs or sheep, which must be
well scraped and cleaned ; fill them with a filler ; but
do not make them too full
, otherwise they might
break; tie them into proper lengths; put them into a
pot of warm water, and do them over a slow fire to
prevent their breaking ; turn them carefully with a
skimmer ; if they are pricked, and the fat comes out,
they are sufficiently done ; take them up upon a cloth
and let them cool ; when they are to be sent to table
slit and grill them.
Puddings another way.—Boudin à la façon de
Nanterre.
Take a sufficient quantity of onions, put them in a
wooden bowl, and with a harness-maker's knife mince
them; then put them in a stewpan with some of the
cauls; put them upon the fire till the onions are well
done, without being browned ; let them cool a little
put in the blood; and mix seasoning with fine salt, fine
herbs, and spices ; add cream, and finish as before.
White Pudding.Boudin Blanc.
Cook a dozen of onions as directed for boudin ordi-
naire; make a very dry panada of cream; put the onions
with it into a mortar, adding sweet almonds that have
been put through a search ; mix altogether; add some
raw yolks of eggs, caul cut in dices, white of roasted
fowls hashed very fine; pound altogether, and moisteni
with warm rich cream ; season with salt and fine spices;
taste if it is good, and fill the skins.
These puddings do not require so much cooking as
the black; instead of water use milk; let them cool and
prick them, instead of cutting, before they are put
upon the grill: the best manner of doing them is to put
them into a white paper case.
Craw-fish Pudding. -Boudin d'Ecrivisses.
Take half a hundred of craw-fish, and boil them in
bouillon ; let them cool; take the shells off the claws and
tails, and suppress that of the bodies ; dry the shells,
pound and make a butter of them (see Beurre d' Ecce


PUDDINGS.
101
visses), cut the tails in dice; put them into a stewpan
with the spawn; take the white of a fowl minced fine,
panada of cream very dry, some roasted onions, some
fat livers cut in slices and also in dice; mix in the
beurre d'ecrevisse some spoonfuls of consommé, fine
spices and salt; mix all well together, and fill, tie them,
and cook them as the white puddings.
Rabbit Pudding-Boudin de Lapereau.
Roast a young rabbit; take off the flesh and pick out
the sinews; hash it with the liver very fine ; break the
bones, and put them into a stewpan; moisten with
consommé, let it boil to draw the flavour, with which a
panada is to be made; pound the meat and panada to-
gether; add a third of butter, that is to say, put in an
equal part of the three ingredients ; add fine minced
onions that have been cooked in consommé, six raw
yolks of eggs, reduced cold cream, as much as is neces-
sary to make the whole to the consistence of pudding;
add fine spices, salt, and nutmeg, and finish as is di-
rected above.
Pheasant Pudding; Boudin de Faisan.
Roast a pheasant, and prepare it as directed in the
above receipt; cook six onions in bouillon, seasoned
with salt, pepper, two cloves, basil, a bunch of parsley,
and small onions; when the onions are done to a per-
fect reduction of their seasoning, mince them very
fine ; mix all together and pound them; put in rich
cream, six yolks
of eggs, and three quarters of a pound
of white caul cut in dice, salt, and fine spices; fill the
puddings, and cook them as above.
Smoked Sausages.- Cervelas fumés.
Mince what quantity of fresh pork will be necessary;
mix with it equal to a quarter of lard, salt, and fine
spices; fill the puddings and tie them; hang them in
the smoke for three days; then cook them in bouillon
for three hours, with salt, a clove of garlic, thyme,
bay, basil, parsley, and young onions ; when cold serve
upon a napkin.
Sausages. — Saucisses.
Take the flesh of pork between the breast and
F 3


102
FRENCH COOKERY.
the lard, which lays over the tendons, as fat as possi-
ble; mince it very fine; add salt and fine spices; fill,
tie, and grill them over a slow fire.
Flat Sausages.---- Sausisses Plates.
Prepare the pork as in the foregoing article; wrap
it up in pieces of caul of the size required, and grill
them upon a slow fire.
Andouilles de Cochon.
Cut pork puddings of a proper size; clean them care-
fully, and lay them in white wine for five or six hours,
with thyme, basil, and two cloves of garlic; cut some
fillets of fresh pork, caul, and fraise; mix all with salt,
fine spices, and a little powder of anise seed; fill the
puddings, not too much as they might burst; tie and
cook them in a vessel of the same length, with milk
and water, parsley, young onions, a clove of garlic,
thyme, basil, bay-salt, pepper, and fraise ; let them
cool in their seasoning ; wipe them well ; nick them a
little ; grill, and serve.
Andouilles de Couenne.
Cut in fillets the skin of young pork, tripe, and caul
and finish as above.
Andouilles à la Béchamelle.
Put a bit of butter into a stewpan, with a slice of
ham, three shalots, parsley, young onions, a clove of
garlic, thyme, basil, and bay; put them upon a slow
fire; let them sweat a quarter of an hour; moisten
with a quart of milk; let them boil and reduce to the
half;
; pass it through a search; put in a large handful
of the crumb of bread, and make it boil until the
crumb has taken up all the milk; cut fillets of fresh
pork, caul, petit lard, and veal fraise ; mix all with the
bread and six yolks of eggs, fine spices, and salt; fill
the puddings; tie, and cook them in half milk and half
fat broth, salt, pepper, and a bunch of parsley and
young onions ; serve as directed for the Andouilles de
Cochon.
Andouilles de Veau.
Take a veal's fraise and udder ; blanch them a full


WILD BOAR.
103
quarter of an hour, and cut them in fillets ; add a pound
of petit lard, cut in the same manner ; mix the whole
with salt, fine spices, some minced shalots, four large
spoonfuls of rich cream, and four yolks of eggs; em-
ploy pigs' puddings, and cook them in bouillon, a bottle
of white wine, a clove of garlic, thyme, basil, bay, and
a bunch of parsley and young onions ; let them cool in
their seasoning ; nick and grill them.
Andouilles de Fraise de Veau.
Take a fraise and one udder or two (according to
their size) of the veal, blanch and let them cool, mince
them ; hash some mushrooms, shalots, parsley, and
truffle ; put these fine herbs into a stewpan with a bit
of butter; pass them, and moisten them with a glass
of Malvoisie or Madeira ; when that is half reduced,
put in four or five spoonfuls of espagnole, and reduce
it; put in the other ingredients, six yolks of eggs, salt,
pepper, and fine herbs; taste if good; and fill the pud-
dings, not too full, and tie them; put them two mi-
nutes in boiling water, to give them their form; let
them cool ; put into a stewpan slices of veal and ham,
carrots, and onions ; put in the andouilles ; cover them
with slices of bacon; moisten with bouillon and white
wine ; let them simmer an hour; leave them to cool in
their seasoning ; nick and grill them.
WILD BOAR.-Sanglier.
The wild boar differs very little from the domestic
hog, and consequently very little in the preparation;
it is not eatable when old, from the state of nature it
enjoys.
Head of the Wild Boar.--Hure de Sanglier.
Is prepared in the same manner as Hure de Cochon.
Fillets of Wild Boar-Filets de Sanglier.
Cut out these fillets as those of beef or veal; cut
onions in slices, some shalots, cloves of garlic, cloves,
bay, sage, juniper, basil, thyme, and salt, half vinegar
and half water; marinade the fillets, or any other part,
four or five days; drain them, and put some oil in a
stewpan, pass the fillets upon both sides over the fire ;
F


10+
FRENCH COOKERY.
put fire over and under, and let them simmer; the time
must be according to the size of the pieces, and age
of
the animal ; drain upon a cloth, and serve over sauce
poivrade.
These fillets may be cooked upon the spit, and
served with the same sauce.
Cutlets of Wild Boar.-Côtelettes de Sanglier.
Pare and lard the cutlets, and do them as in the
above article.
Ham of Wild Boar.-Jambon de Sanglier.
This ham is prepared the same as that of pork
The way to give Pork the taste and appearance of Wild
Boar.—Moyen de donner au Cochon le goût et l'ap-
parence du Sanglier.
Cut the pork into cutlets or fillets, &c. &c.; put
them into the marinade directed for the filets de san-
glier; add some melilot, balm or mint, and some green
walnut shells* ; let them marinade eight days, by that
time it will have taken the colour and taste. To insure
it, a young animal must be chosen, which is known by
pulling the skin, which, if young, is easily torn.
ROEBUCK Chevreuil.
The roebuck is much less than the deer, but resem-
bles it greatly ; his age is known by the branches of
his horns, and if he has attained ten, he is past being
useful in cookery. The best age is from eighteen
months to three years.
To skin a Roebuck.-Manière de dépecer un Chevreuil.
See SHEEP.
To roast a hind quarter.—Quartier de derrière à la
Broche.
Prepare it as a leg of lamb; put it into a raw mari-
nade, as is directed for the sanglier, which is to be made
weaker or stronger, according to the time it is to be
These ought to be prepared by salting when they are in season.


ROEBUCK.
105
kept ; when sufficiently done, drain and put it upon
the spit; wrap it in buttered paper, and serve it with
a sauce (au pauvre homme) or poivrade ; the roebuck
may be kept six months, changing the marinade;
in that case it requires to steep a day or two to take it
out.
Cutlets of Roebuck.—Côtelettes de Chevreuil.
Cut, pare, and flatten the cutlets a little; they may
either be larded or not, and put them in the same ma-
rinade as is directed in the above article; one day is
sufficient. Put a little oil into a stewpan, and do the
cutlets in it over a strong fire; when enough done, and
of a fine colour, serve them upon a poivrade or any
other sauce, such as tomate, &c.
Epaules de Chevreuil.
Take off the flesh of the shoulders in small fillets;
skin, nerve; lard and marinade them as the cutlets;
cook and serve them in the same manner.
Civet de Chevreuil.
Take the breast and neck of a roebuck; cut them in
pieces, as is directed for haricot of mutton; put some
fine lard in a stewpan with a little butter, and pass it
over the fire; drain out the lard and make a light rout
with the butter; put in the meat, and when it is well
hardened, moisten with a bottle of good red wine and
four pints of water; season it with a bunch of parsley
and young onions, two cloves of garlic, thyme, bay,
salt, and pepper; stir it often that it may not stick;
put in small onions raw, or done in butter and mush-
rooms; let them cook, and skim; if the sauce is too
thin reduce it.
Brains of Roebuck. -Cervelles de Chevreuil en Ma-
rinade.
Prepare the brains as those of sheep; cook them in a
marinade ; drain, and fry them.
Fallow Deer.—Daim.
The daim is less than the deer, and comes between
F 5


106
FRENCH COOKERY.
it
it and the roebuck; it is not much esteemed in France;
but were it cooked as in England, it would be equally
esteemed there. I shall only give one receipt, which
is the manner the English prepare the haunch.
Haunch of Venison. Quartier de derrière du Daim.
Take out the chump bone; beat and powder the un-
der part with fine salt; make a sufficient quantity of
paste, which is to be made of flour, six eggs, salt, and
a very little water, as the paste must be very firm;
wrap up
in a wet cloth, and leave to repose for an
hour ; afterwards roll it out equally of the thickness of
a crown piece; spit the venison, and wrap it entirely
in the paste, which ought to be in one entire sheet;
unite it well by wetting the edges, and laying them over;
then wrap it up in a buttered paper, which ought to be
of one entire piece; let it cook at a very equal fire for
three hours; when done, take off the paper* ; let the
paste take a good colour, and send it to table with a
sauce-boat of currant jelly.
HARE. · Lievre.
Gateau de Lievre.
Prepare a hare, preserving the liver and blood;
take off all the flesh; pick out the skin and nervest;
mince it and as much veal liver with the liver of the
hare; take as much of the noix of ham, mince it
well, and add to the other ingredients in the mortar,
and pound them all together into the consistence of
paste ; add one of third rasped lard ; pound it anew till
it is a perfect. paste ; season with salt, fine spices,
cooked parsley, and young onions, nutmeg, half a
glass of brandy, six or eight eggs, one after the
other, the blood of the hare and the juice of a
clove of garlic: the juice is got by bruising it
* Although Mr. Bouvilliers is not very correct in his English
receipts, yet as there is something always to be learnt from him, the
best of them are given.
† It appears unnecessary to be always repeating “take off the
skin and nerves," when it is so obvious that they ought not to be left.


HARE.
107
.
with a little water in a spoon ; mix all well together;
cover a stewpan with thick slices of lard; put in the
farce, the thickness of two fingers ; have ready
large lard cut in fillets, with pistaches and truffles,
which are to be arranged alternately upon the farce ;
they are then to be covered with the same thick-
ness of farce, continue till the mould is full ; cover
them with slices of lard and paper ; put a cover over
it, and place it in a baking-pan in an oven for three
hours, but that according to its size; let it cool,
heat the mould gently before it is taken out of the
lard ; make a mark to show where it is to be cut,
that the lard may be cut across; serve on a napkin,
either as a large or small piece in entremets. (Second
course.)
To Roast a Leveret. Levraut à la Broche.
To choose a leveret, examine its fore-paws, if the
protuberances are soft it is young; take off the
fore-paws at the elbow ; skin and draw it; put the
blood in a vessel ; cut the hind legs half through;
put one of them through the knuckle of the other;
break the thigh bones in the middle: stiffen it over
the fire; wipe and rub off the blood with the hand;
lard or barb* it; put it on the spit and give it from
a half to three quarters of an hour to do; serve it
with a poivrade, which must be thickened with the
blood without letting it boil.
Juice of Hare. Civet de Lievre.
This civet is made as that of the chevreuil, or roe-
buck, only that it is thickened with the blood.
Scollops of Leveret in blood. -- Escalopes de Levraut,
au Sang.
Take one or two leverets, and after preparing them
take off the fillets and the noixt of the legs; cut them
the thickness and size of crown pieces; beat them
with a handle of a knife dipt in water; arrange them
• Barb, signifies cover it with slices of lard.
f The muscles of the legs.
F 6


108
FRENCH COOKERY.
with the kidneys in a sauté pan, or a deep silver dish
in which butter has been melted ; put in a little salt
and large pepper ; baste them with melted butter ; lay
over a round of white paper, and leave them till ready
to serve; break the bones and the heads, and put
them with the parings into a pot with some slices of
ham, some kidney-fat of veal, two onions stuck each
with a clove, two or three carrots, bunch of parsley
and young onions, a bay leaf and half a clove of garlic;
moisten with bouillon, and a glass of red burgundy ;
let it stew an hour or more, skim it; pass it through
a tammy, and set it again on the fire ; reduce it more
than half; add three large spoonfuls of espagnole, and
again reduce it to the consistence of half-glaze ; when
ready to serve, put the scollops upon a brisk fire,
and when firm on one side turn them upon the other ;
drain them from the butter, retaining the juice of the
fillets ; put the whole into the fumet; thicken with the
blood and a bit of butter, adding the juice of a lemon.
If there is no espagnole make a little roux ; thicken
the fumet with it before rubbing it through ; and to
make it nearly the same as the above, reduce it again.
Filets de Levrauts à la Provençale.
Take off the fillets, and after preparing them, lard
them with anchovies (that have been refreshed) and
lard; put wine into a stewpan with half a clove of
garlic, some minced shalots, salt, and large pepper ;
put in the fillets to cook ; drain them hot, and put into
the stewpan two spoonfuls of coulis and as much con-
sommé, with half a spoonful of tarragon vinegar;
reduce the sauce ; pass it through a tammy; put it again
upon the fire, and skim it anew; taste every thing ; dish
with the fillets over.
Filets de Lesrauts en Serpent.
Take the large fillets of three or four large leverets”;
pare them; form the large end into the shape of the head
of a serpent ; lard the rest in two rows; cover a stewpan
with slices of lard ; put in the fillets, forming them
into serpents ; season with a bunch of parsley, young


HARE.
109
onions, a carrot and an onion; half a glass of white
wine, and moisten the whole with consommé; cover
with a buttered paper, let them boil, and leave them to
stew a quarter of an hour with fire over and under
them; drain them upon a cover, glaze and serve upon
a good fumet (see Scollops of Leverets). The legs and
shoulders may be made into a civet, or in the following
manner :
Cuisses de Levrauts en Papillotes.
Take the legs of six leverets, bone them to the
knee, pass them in fine hashed sweet herbs ; let them
stew nearly half an hour, and finish them in the same
manner as cutlets of veal in papillotes.
Take either a hare or the legs of leverets, pound
the flesh and liver; and rub them through a quenelle
search; gather them up and have the same quantity of
dried panada, which has been made of consommé or
bouillon, as there is of the pounded meat; pound them
together, and add as much butter as panada, that is to
say, that an equal part of the three articles should be
employed; then put in the blood, season with salt,
fine spices, nutmeg, fine herbs minced small and done
in butter; put in three or four yolks of eggs one after
the other, and finish with two whipt whites, which
must be added lightly; poach a little bit, to taste
it; if properly made, shake a little flour upon the
table, and roll it into the size of small bolonese
sausages; form then the puddings; strew a little
flour upon a cover, boil them in grand bouillon ; let
them cool, dip them in melted butter, roll them in
crumbs of bread, grill and serve them upon a good
fumet as directed above.
Cutlets of Leverets. Côtelettes de Letraut.
Take the fllets from three large leverets ; prepare
and cut them into the size and shape of small mutton
cutlets; flatten and pare them; boil the ribs of the
leverets till the flesh come off easily; prepare these
bones nicely to form the cutlets in putting one into
each; then put into a stewpan butter, rasped lard,


110
FRENCH COOKERY.
parsley, young onions, shalots and mushrooms, all
minced very fine, seasoned with salt, pepper, and half
a glass of white wine; put in the cutlets over these
herbs, let them have five or six minutes, arrange them
en cordon* in the dish; keep them warm, skim the
herbs, and put in a spoonful of reduced consommé,
with the juice of a large lemon; mix all well, and
pour this sauce into the well of the cutlets.
RABBITS.
Sauté, ou Escalopes de Lapereaut.
Take the fillets of two rabbits with the legs, small fillets,
and kidneys; cut them in small pieces, of an equal size,
dip the handle of a knife in water to flatten them with,
and pare them; melt some butter in a sauté-pan, put
in the scollops carefully, strew in a little salt and pepper,
and pour a little melted butter over them; cover them
with
paper
and leave them till ready to serve ; cut up
the carcases of the rabbits and put them into a pot with
a carrot, two onions, one stuck with a clove, a bunch of
parsley and young onions, a bay leaf, a slice of bacon,
and some parings or débris of veal ; moisten with con-
sommé and let it boil;skim and let it cook about an hour;
skim and run it through a search ; let it reduce a third,
add two large spoonsful of reduced espagnole; reduce
it again, working it to the consistence of half glaze :
at the moment of serving, toss the scollops, stiffen
them upon both sides, drain the butter but preserve
the juice; put them into the sauce, toss them; put
in a bit of butter, and dish with a border. (See article
Bord. de Plat.)
In the season, truffles or cucumbers may be cut,
passed in butter, and added to the scollops.
Fillets may also be larded with lard and truffle,
done with fire over and under, glazed and served over
a good
fumet.
Filets de Lapereaux à la Purée de Champignons.
Take the fillets of six rabbits, prepare and lard
• En cordon is in a wreath which leaves a well in the centre,
into which the sauce or ragout is put.


RABBITS.
111
them with middling-sized lard, cook them as above,
and send them to table with a purée of mushrooms ; they
may be also served upon cucumbers, pease, endive, &c.
Cuisses de Lapereaux à la Dauphine.
Take out the thigh bones of eight legs of rabbits,
lard and marque them in a stewpan as fricandeaux ;
cook them half an hour, glaze and serve under a
reduced endive to the consistency of béchamelle.
A Leveret Hash. Hachis de Lapereaux à la Por-
tugaise.
Take off the flesh of three roasted leverets, skin,
nerve, hash, and put it in a dish; break the car.
cases and put them into a stewpan, with five large
spoonsful of espagnole, two of consommé, and a glass
of white champagne ; when enough, put it through a
tammy, reduce it to half glaze, put in the hash
with
pepper
and a bit of butter; vannez* without al-
lowing it to boil, and serve it in a dish with a border
of fried bread ; lay over eight or nine poached eggs;
which ought to be laid between, with a little essence
about them; likewise small fillets
may
be introduced,
decorated with truffles or larded.
Fillets of Leverets.—Filets de Lapereaux à la Vopallière.
Proceed as above with undressed hares, only
cut the meat about the thickness of two inches;
marinade this in good oil,
fresh minced truffles,
shalots, parsley, and young onions minced very fine;
season with salt and large pepper, leave them in this
pickle for two hours, thread them on skewers with
this seasoning, wrap them in slices of bacon, cover
them with paper and fix them on the spit; let them
have a quarter of an hour; take off the paper, and
lard and serve them over a good brown Italienne,
heightened with lemon juice.
Fricassée of Leverets. Lapereaux en Fricassée de
Poulet.
Take two very tender leverets, cut them in pieces,
* Vanner is to lift and let fall from the spoon, to mix thoroughly
together.


112
FRENCH COOKERY.
wipe off the blood, put them into a stew-pan, with
slices of onions, a bay leaf, parsley in branches, young
onions, and a little salt; give them a boil ; drain, wipe,
and pare them anew; put them into another stew-
pan with a bit of butter, sauté or toss them; strew a
Iittle flour over, moisten with the water they were
blanched in, taking care to shake them, that the flour
may not get into knots ; let them boil; put in mush-
rooms or truffles, or both; let them reduce, and thicken
with four yolks of eggs, diluted with a little milk or
cream, or a little of the sauce cooled; and finish with
a little lemon-juice; remember, when that is not to be
had, to employ verjuice or even white-wine vinegar.
Giblets of Leverets. -Gibelottes de Lapereaux.
Take half a pound of petit lard or nice bacon, cut
it in large dice, which fry white in butter, drain and
put a little four in the butter to make a roux; cut
two leverets in pieces, and when the roux is of a fine
white, put in the leverets; let them harden, and add
the petit lard; moisten with half a bottle of white
wine and some bouillon or water; add salt, pepper, a
punch of parsley and young onions, a clove, a bay leaf,
and a clove of garlic; while cooking put in mushrooms,
skim, and take out the sweet herbs; if the sauce is too
thin, take out some and reduce it.
Giblets with Eels.—Gibelotte de Laperean et
d' Anguille.
Proceed as above, adding an eеl cut in junks, which
must be cooked with the leverets, or separately, in the
same seasoning.
Rabbit with Pease. -Lapereaux aux petits Pois.
Make a little roux, cut the leverets in pieces ; when
the is
very white put them in and heat them in
it; add some dices of ham, and moisten them very
much with bouillon; put in a bunch of parsley and
young onions, a clove, a bay leaf, and half a clove of
garlic ; when it is near boiling, put in a quart of pease;
salt and reduce the whole ; take out the sweet herbs
before sending it to table.
roux


RABBITS.
113
Timbale de Lapereaur.
Prepare two young rabbits as above ; pass them in
a stew-pan with butter, salt, pepper, parsley, young
onions, shalots, mushrooms, and truffles hashed with
fine spices, and a bay leaf; moisten the whole with a
glass of white wine, and two large spoonsful of espa-
gnole ; let them simmer, and when done take out
the bay leaf and let them cool; then butter a
mould of sufficient size, line the mould with rolled
paste (see Pâte à Páté); begin at the middle of
the bottom in turning the paste till it arrives at the
edge; take care that the paste lies firm over each
other, then have ready a piece of paste for a dou-
ble bottom; it ought to be at least an inch larger
than the mould, and about the thickness of a crown;
wet it, and after having rubbed the bands over with
yolks, put it in, join it well by pressing it with the
hand that no opening may be left; then make small
quenelles of godireau, dress them all round till they
nearly reach the top, then put in the leverets and
mushrooms, passed or fried in butter; make a cover
for the timbale, wet the edges, put on the cover, join
it, and dress it round ; let it be in the oven an hour and
a half: when it has taken a good colour and ready to
serve, turn it upon a dish, cut it open in the best man-
ner, and put in a good espagnole.
If there is not time to make the bands, butter a
mould and powder it with vermicelli, put in a bottom
and finish as above.
Mayonnaise de Lapereaur.
Cut two leverets, that have been roasted, in pieces,
pare and toss them in a mayonnaise. (See Sauce May-
onnaise.)
Lepereaux aur fines Herbes.
Cut two leverets in pieces, pare and put them into
a stewpan with butter, salt, pepper, parsley, young
onions, shalots hashed, and mushrooms ; pass them
over the fire for a quarter of an hour; when they are
sufficiently done, add the juice of a large lemon.


114
FRENCH COOKERY.
1
Lapereaux aux Papillotes.
Prepare the leverets as above, put them in papillotes
(See Cuisses de Levrauts en Papillotes.)
Marinade de Lapereaut.
Cut two roasted leverets in pieces, put them in a
marinade (see article Marinade); when they are suf-
ficiently done, drain and fry them in a pâte à frire, or
butter; give them a fine colour.
Rabbits in Salad.--Salade de Lapereaux.
Cut in pieces one or two roasted leverets, pare and
arrange them in a dish, garnish with fillets of ancho-
vies, hard eggs cut in quarters, beet-root if in season,
hearts of lettuces, capers, well cooked onions, and other
minced ingredients generally served with salads ; send
oil to table with it.
Rabbits in Soup.
Terrine de Lapereaux.
Prepare and cut two young rabbits in pieces, put
them into a small pot with two or three onions, one
stuck with a clove, one or two carrots, a bay leaf, a
bunch of parsley, and small onions, half
a clove of gar-
lic; moisten with good broth; have ready half or three
quarters of a pound of lard cut in dice with the
skin on, blanched, which must be added to the leve-
rets; when sufficiently done, drain and put into a
tureen, and masque or pour over a purée of lentilles
or pease. (See Purée de Lentilles, or Purée de Pois.)
Rabbits roasted. — Accolade de Lapereaux à la
Broche.
Prepare two young leverets, cut the fore-legs close
to the body, and half from the hind ; put one leg
through the knuckle of the other ; dress and beat
them upon the back with the handle of a knife, lard
one, and barb or wrap in slices of bacon the other;
spit and baste them while cooking ; serve with a poi-
vrade in a sauce-boat.
!


PHEASANT.
115
PHEASANT-Faisan.
If the pheasant is young it will still retain the first
quil in the point of the wing; the cocks are known by
their spurs, which are long and pointed when old;
they ought to be chosen fat and full of flesh.
To roast a Pheasant. — Faisan à la Broche.
Pluck a pheasant, all except the head and tail, tak-
ing, care not to tear the skin; having prepared it, barb
or lard it, wrap up the head and tail in paper: spit it
and lay the tail up over the back, and wrap the whole
in paper: when done enough take off the paper and
dish it. If for an English table send up bread sauce
with it. (See that article.)
With Truffles. Faisar aus Truffes, ou à la Pén-
gueuz.
Prepare a young pheasant as for the spit, empty it
by the craw; it may be necessary to break the breast-
bone, but be careful not to break the gall : pick and
singe it lightly; clean a pound and a half of good
trues; pound three quarters of a pound of bacon,
put it in a stewpan with the trufies, of which the
smallest have been minced; set it upon a slow fire,
with salt, pepper, and fine spices; when enough
let them be nearly cold, and stuff the pheasant, sew
it up, lard it, leave it two or three days or more
that it may be well perfumed; spit, wrap it in paper,
and let it cook an hour.
Fillets of Pheasants. Filets de Faisan à la l'o-
paliere.
Take off the large and sirall fillets, beat them
lightly with the handle of the knife, and pare
them; melt butter in a sauté pan, dip in the file
lets and arrange them in such a manner that they
will not touch one another ; strew a little fine
salt, sore large pepper over, and cover them with a
round of paper : prepare the six small fillets by lard.
ing three and decorating the other three with little


116
FRENCH COOKERY.
crests of truffle : put them upon a tart-pan with melted
butter and a little salt ; give them the form of a half
circle, and cover them with a round of paper : hav-
ing roasted the thighs of the pheasants or done them
in a stewpan with a little butter without moistening,
let them cool and be prepared, then mince them very
small and put them into a covered stewpan; a fumet
having been made of the carcases in the same manner
as the fumet de lapereau, run it through a cloth; add
three large spoonfuls of worked espagnole ; reduce to
the consistence of half glaze, reserve a little to glaze the
entrée ; toss the fillets, sce that they are enough done,
dish them, en couronne ; put the purée and truffles into
the sauce with a bit of good butter; shake, but do not
let it boil, pour it into the middle of the fillets or the
well, the small fillets having been tossed at the same
time; glaze them, and make a second crown upon
the mince.
Scollops of Pheasants. --Escalopes de Faisans.
Take off the wings of three pheasants, cut them
into fillets of an equal size, make them into scollops
as is directed in Scollops of Leverets, in a preceding
article, melt a little butter in a sauté-pan and arrange
the scollops; dust over a little salt and pepper,
baste them with melted butter; make a fumet of the
remains of the pheasants as is directed (see Lapereau);
add three large spoonfuls of espagnole ; reduce to
half glaze ; toss the scollops, drain off the butter, pre-
serving the juice; put them with the juice into the
sauce ; toss and finish with a pat of butter, truffles
may be added.
Salmi of Pheasants. Salmi de Faisans.
Roast one or two pheasants, cut them up
and
pare
them properly, put them into a stewpan and mois-
ten with a little conso
sommé; heat them upon hot cin-
ders; put into a stewpan a glass of good red or white
wine, three or four minced shalots, a bit of bitter
orange-peel, three large spoonfuls of reduced espagnole,


PHEASANTS.
117
about the size of a nutmeg of glaze or reduction of
veal ; reduce the whole, pound the skins and parings
of the pheasants, put them into the reduction, moisten
without letting them boil ; pass or rub it through a
tammy. like a purée; put this purée or salmi into a
stewpan, and put it into the bain-marie; when
ready to serve, drain the pheasant, dish it nicely,
putting the inferior parts undermost, consequently,
the wings and thighs will be all round ; let them be
intermingled with hearts of crust or crumb of bread
fried in butter ; put into the salmi the juice of one or
two bitter oranges.
Souffly of Pheasants. — Soufflé de Faisans.
The same as Soufflé de Perdreaux.
Pheasant with Sour-crout. Faisan à la Chou
Croûte.
Take a large pheasant, prepare and lard it with
large lard, seasoned with salt, pepper, fine spices,
parsley, young onions, and pounded aromatics; wash
and press out a sufficient quantity of sour-croute to
make a large dish, cook it with a bit of petit lard and
a Bolognese sausage, and add the top of a braise to
nourish it; give it three or four hours upon a slow fire,
then put in the pheasant and give it nearly an hour
more; dish the pheasant, and with a pierced spoon
drain the sour-croute and put it round the dish; cut the
Bolognese in slices, take off the skin and border the
dish with it, in intermixing the petit lard cut in slices
and sausages.
Pheasants another Way. — Croquettes de Faisans.
If there is a pheasant (de desserte), that is to say, that
has remained from a former day, or even a part of it,
croquettes may be made in the same manner as those of
lapereau, (art. Farce.)
Pheasants another Way. Mayonnaise de Faisans.
(See Mayonnaise de Lapereau.)
Pheasant Pudding.-Boudin de Faisan à la Richelieu.
Take the flesh off the pheasant, pound and rub it


118
FRENCH COOKERY.
through a quenelle search ; roast two large potatoes,
take off the skin, and pound them; gather them up
and make balls of them separately, that the quanti-
ties may be equal ; pound these two well together, add
the butter, which must also be equal ; and pound
them again ; season with salt, pepper, fine spices and
nutmeg, and let nothing prevail ; moisten with five or
six yolks one after another; when theyare well mixed
with the farce, poach a little bit, to ascertain if it is at
its proper degree and of a good taste; whip three
whites, and mix them well in:
: strew some flour upon the
table, and roll up this farce into the size of large pud-
dings; put them on a cover and poach them, as is
directed for the Boudin de Lapereaux ; let them cool,
pannez them (à l'Anglaise); that is, to mix together a
yolk, some melted butter, and a little salt to dip them
in: when ready to serve, grill, and serve with a
fumet, made of the remains of the pheasant. (See
Fumet de Gebiere.)
PARTRIDGES.
Red Partridges. Perdrix Rouges.
The male is known by a protuberance upon the feet.
and the age by the sharp point of the feather at the
end of the wing.
Partridges. -Perdreaux Rouges à la Périgueur.
Take three partridges, draw them by the crops,
singe them singly without heating the skin, do not truss
the legs, but cut the point of the claws; rasp half a
pound of lard, and prepare a pound of truffles ; if large,
cut them in halves or quarters, shape them into small
truffles and mince the parings, pass them in the rasped
lard, as directed Pheasant (à la Périgueux); stuff the
partridges with them and sew up the crop ; truss their
legs outside and form them handsomely, let the stomach
look flattened ; cover a stewpan with lard that can con-
tain the partridges easily, with a little ham and fat of
veal kidneys, a carrot, an onion, a bunch of sweet
herbs, half a glass of white wine, a spoonful of con-
sommé, and a little salt; lay the partridges over this


PARTRIDGES.
119
seasoning upon their breasts, with some slices of lemon,
cover with slices of bacon, and let them boil; then put
them upon a paillasse, with fire over and under, for
three quarters of an hour; drain, dish, and serve with
a sauce à la Périgueur.
To roast Partridges. — Perdreaur, ou entrée de Broche-
Prepare three partridges, truss and skewer them,
cover the breasts with slices of lemon, and over that
with lard; wrap them in paper, fix the ends to the
skewers with packthread tied to the spit; give them
three quarters of an hour; when ready to serve take
off the paper, dish, and serve with clear juice in which
a little large pepper has been put; squeeze over the
juice of a bitter orange.
Perdreaus Grillés,
Are done as chicken, only they may be stiffened in
butter in a stewpan on both sides before they are laid
upon the grille, and sent to table with a sauce (au
pauvre Homme).
Salmi of Partridges. Salmi de Perdreaus.
Prepare three partridges, barb and roast them, let
them be under-done; when cold cut them in pieces,
take off the skin, pare and arrange them in a stewpan,
with a little consommé; put them upon hot cinders;
don't let them boil immediately; add six shalots and a
little lemon peel, also four large spoonfuls of reduced
Espagnole, let it reduce half; pass the sauce through
a tammy, drain the partridges, dish them with crusts
of fried bread between; sauce, and squeeze over them
a little lemon juice.
Salmi chaud ou froid.
Prepare the salmi as is directed in the preceding
article, finishing it a quarter of an hour before serving;
take the partridges up; add to the sauce a large
spoonful of jelly or aspic ; put the stewpan in ice or in
cold water, shake it well till it takes, then dip in the
pieces one after another, dish them, and pour over the
remainder of the sauce; garnish this entree with fried
crusts, as also with jelly cut in diamonds or otherwise.


120
FRENCH COOKERY.
}
Perdreaux. (See Pheasants à la Vopallière.)
Salmi de Chasseur.
Roast three partridges as for the other salmis; put
into a saucepan three spoonfuls of oil, half a glass of
red wine, salt, pepper, the zest and juice of a lemon ;
toss the partridges in the sauce in which they are to
be sent to table.
Perdreaux à la Monglat, ou Salpiçon en Curvette.
Truss three partridges as fowls, barb and roast them;
when cold cut out the stomach in such a manner as to
leave it like a basin; cut the flesh in small dice, heat
the partridges in a little consommé, keeping them warm
till ready to serve; put into a stewpan a piece of
butter, cut six or eight fresh truffles with as many
mushrooms, pass them in butter, with parsley, young
onions, and shalots minced: moisten with a glass of
champagne, and six large spoonfuls of consommé worked;
reduce the sauce and skim it; cut two or three fat
livers, put them into the sauce with the minced meat,
salt, and large pepper, give them two or three boils;
put in the partridges, heat the whole without boiling :
dish, and fill the breasts with the salpiçon, serve with a
sauce of fumet. (See Fumet in the article Lapereaux.)
Chartreuse of Partridges with Cabbage. —Perdris
aux Choux et en Chartreuse.
Take three old partridges, prepare and truss them
en poule *; lard with large lard, season with salt, pepper,
and fine spices, pounded and sifted aromatics, parsley
and small onions minced; cover a stewpan with some
parings of veal, two carrots, two onions, and half a clove
of garlic; put in the partridges, cover with slices of
lard, moisten with some good stock, let it boil, and cover
it with a round of buttered paper and the cover of the
stewpan ; put it on a paillasse with fire over and under,
give it about an hour and a quarter; in the mean time
prepare the cabbage in the same manner as beef (au
choux), in which cook a Bolognese sausage and a bit
of petit lard; cut thirty red carrots, as many turnips,
* En poule, as a fowl.
1
?
1


PARTRIDGES.
121
make them the size of a shilling, their length must be
that of the mould used ; blanch these roots; drain and
cook them in consommé with a little sugar to take off
the acid ; having allowed the Bolognese and the petit
lard to cool, butter a mould, put a round of paper in
the bottom and a band round the sides reaching the
top; cut the sausage in thin slices and the lard in
dices of the same thickness ; put in the centre of the
mould a slice of sausage, then round it the dices of the
petit lard, and continue to cover it in this manner;
then dress the sides of the mould with the formed car-
rots and turnips alternately very close together;
press out the cabbage, cover the bottom of the mould
and the sides strengthening the wall ; leave sufficient
room in the middle for the partridges; put the breasts
down, and fill up the mould with cabbage; press it well
in so that it may be firm, and leave nothing over the
edge of the mould; put on a cover, and put it in the
bain-marie ; pass the seasoning through a gauze search;
add three large spoonsful of reduced espagnole in the
following manner : let it reduce, skim, bring it to half
glaze ; turn out the chartreuse ; take the paper care-
fully off
, and spunge it all over with the corner of a
cloth with the glaze, and sauce with it.
Another Way.--Autre Manière de dresser les Perdrix
aux Choux.
Dish the partridges, squeeze the cabbage in a cloth,
cut them nicely like sausages, en batons, so that they
may stand round the partridges; garnish them with
Bolognese petit lard cut in slices and sausages à la
chipolata ; sauce as above.
Another Way.-Mayonnaise de Perdreaux.
Roast three partridges, leave them to cool, cut them
in pieces, put them in a vessel with four shalots, a lit-
tle tarragon and burnet minced, four spoonsful of oil,
three large ones of broken jelly, a little pepper,
salt, and a large spoonful of tarragon vinegar; toss all
well together, dish the partridges, putting the breasts
and backs at the bottom, and the other pieces round;
G


122
FRENCH COOKERY
marque with a good mayonnaise; the dish may be
garnished with jelly.
Another Way.
-Sauté de Filets de Perdreaux.
Prepare four partridges, Faisans à la Vopallière ;
melt a quarter of a pound of butter in a sauté pan,
dip and arrange the filets one after the other, strew
over a little salt and cover with a round of paper;
make a fumet of the carcases (see Fumet, article Sauté
de Lapereaux); add to the reduced fumet four large
spoonfuls of espagnole; reduce, skim, and when ready
to serve, toss the fillets; they are done enough when
they resist the touch ; drain them, dish them en cou-
ronne, putting between each a fried heart of bread
which has been glazed; finish with a pat of butter;
baste the bread and sauce. This dish
may
be served
with truffles.
Purée de Perdreaux. (See Purée de Gibier.)
Souffly of Partridges. Soufflé de Perdreaux.
Roast two partridges, take off the flesh and pound
them, adding the livers that have been blanched; put
it into a stewpan with four large spoonfuls of reduced
espagnole, heat it without boiling and rub it through a
search; gather what remains on the outside together
with a knife, and put the whole in a dish ; put in a
stewpan four large spoonfuls of espagnole and two of
consommé ; break the carcases and put them in; cook,
skim, and put it through a search ; reduce, and put in
the size of a small walnut of glaze or reduction of veal ;
take it off the fire and put in the purée, mix altogether;
put in the size of an egg of good butter, a little nut-
meg, and the yolks of four fresh eggs, the white of
which must be whipt apart as for biscuit ; mix them
by little and little into the purée though hot, mix all
well, and pour it into a silver dish or paper mould,
round or square; put it in the oven ; when the soufflé
is well risen touch it lightly, if it resist a little it is
enough; it must be served immediately, as it is apt
to fall.
L


PARTRIDGES.
123
Partridges.—Perdrix à la Purée, en Terrine ou
Entrée.
Lard three partridges as directed for Perdrix
au Choux; cook them in the same seasoning, serve
them with any purée, such as lentilles, &c.; garnish
with sausages, petit lard, and croutons or crusts cut in
rounds and fried in butter.
Partridge Hash.-Hachis de Perdreaux.
Roast two or three partridges, take off the flesh,
suppress the skin and nerves, hash it very fine, break
the bones, put it in a stewpan with four large spoon-
fuls of espagnole and two of consommé; cook this fumet,
pass it through a search, reduce, skim, and bring
it to half glaze; take it off the fire, and put aside
a part of the sauce which will be required to glaze the
hash when it is served ; put into the remainder the
minced meat with a little common pepper, nutmeg,
and two small pats of butter; mix the hash well,
dish, glaze, and garnish with fried bread and poached
eggs.
It
may also be garnished with small fillets
en sautoir between the eggs, or crests of tongue
à l'écarlate.
Semelles de Perdreaux à la Chingara.
Take the fillets of three partridges, pare them, and
melt some butter in a stewpan; turn them in the butter
and cover with a round of paper; cut a nice-reddened
veal's tongue into six pieces, making them the same
size and shape of the fillets; warm them in a stewpan
with a little consommé; take the parings of the tongue,
leaving out the skin; cut them very fine, having made
a sauce (see Fumet de Lapereaux); pass and reduce
it, add three spoonsful of reduced espagnole, reduce
to the consistence of half glaze; toss the fillets, dish
them en couronne with a bit of tongue between
each; sauce with part of the sauce, put the hash in
what remains, mix it well, taste if it is too salt, soften
it with a bit of butter; serve the hash in the well of
the fillets.
Q 2


124
FRENCH COOKERY.
!
Partridge Cutlets. -Côtelettes de Perdreaux.
Take the fillets of six partridges, beat them a little
with the handle of a knife; take the smallest bones off
the wings, scrape and put them into the fillets in such
a manner that they shall retain their hold; melt some
butter in a sauté pan, put in the fillets, strew over a
little fine salt, and let them stiffen ; drain, and let the
butter cool a little; put in two yolks of eggs to
thicken, dip in the cutlets, and grill them over red
cinders; let them take a good colour, dish en
couronne, serve with a clear or reduced fumet poured
over them, which has been made of the carcases; put
in some large pepper and the juice of one or two
oranges.
Pâtés froids de Perdreaux. (See article Pâtés.)
Remark. There has been no mention made of the
Grey Partridge, as both kinds are cooked in the same
way.
WOODCOCKS, SNIPES, &c.
Bécasses, Bécassines, Bécasseaux.
The woodcock as well as the snipe is a bird of pas-
sage, so that it is only to be had during the winter
months; it is much esteemed; these birds are all pre-
pared in the same manner, and never opened.
To roast Woodcocks and Snipes. -Bécasses, Bécas-
sines, &c. à la Broche.
Prepare three woodcocks without opening them,
take off the skin of the head, truss up their feet and
use their beaks for skewering them; choose the leanest
and lard it; barb the other two; pass a skewer be-
tween the thighs and fix the ends to the spit; half an
hour will do them: haste them and lav three trasts in
the dripping pan to receive their fat; when ready to
serve take them up, dish the bread, and lay the wood-
cocks over it.
Another Way. — Autre Manière de les servir à la
Broche.
Draw or empty the woodcocks by the back, take


WOODCOCKS.
125
out the neck, mince, and add about half the quantity of
rasped lard with the intestines, a little minced parsley,
young onions and shalots, salt and pepper ; stuff the
woodcocks, sew them up, cover them with slices of
bacon, and finish as above. If they are to be served
to the English, send to table with them a bread sauce.
Salmi of Woodcocks and Snipes. — Salmi de Bécasses
et de Bécassines.
Roast three woodcocks, and let them cool; cut them
up and cook as directed for that à la Perdreaux, ex-
cept that the intestines of the woodcocks are added to
the carcases in making the salmi.
Souffly of ditto. ---- Soufflé de Bécasses. (See also
Soufflé des Perdreaux.)
Roast ditto. -Bécasses en Entrée de Broche.
Proceed in the same manner as for the Perdreaux
à l'Entrée de Broche, with the difference that the in-
testines are taken out and seasoned, as for the wood-
cocks à la broche.
Salmi de Bécasses de Chasseur. (See Salmi de Per-
dreaux de Chasseur.)
Woodcock stuffed with Truffles and roasted.-Bécasse
aur Truffes.
Prepare the woodcocks and void them by the back;
have ready a sufficient quantity of truffles cooked in
rasped lard, with salt, pepper and fine spices, minced
parsley, young onions and shalots ; let them cool a lit-
tle, mince the intestines well, mix them with the truffle ;
stuff the woodcocks, sew up the backs and truss them:
lard and put them on the spit, as directed for wood-
cocks à la broche, or marque them in a stewpan, and do
them with fire under and over.
Ditto hashed. Hachis de Bécasses en Crustades.
Roast three woodcocks; when cold take off the
meat and hash it very fine; take out the gizzard, and
pound the remainder with the intestines; put into a
stewpan a large glass of champagne, with three or
four sliced shalots; when this has had one or two
G3


126
FRENCH COOKERY.
boils, add four large spoonfuls of reduced espagnole ;
let it then boil and put in the pounded débris from the
mortar; mix it without boiling and rub it through a
search ; in this state it is called a purée ; gather it to-
gether, put it into a stewpan, and then into the bain-
marie; make seven or nine large hearts or rounds of
bread nearly three inches thick, fry them in butter,
and hollow them out according to their shapes; put
the hash into the sauce and mix it well; add a pat of
butter, taste if it is good, fill the croustades if they are
heart-shaped, dish them with the points inward, and
lay a poached egg upon each.
PLOVER. -Bécasse.
The Golden Plover is usually roasted in the same
manner as the woodcock, and is never opened; it is
however made into different entrées, such as the fol-
lowing:
Plover. Pluvier au Gratin.
Prepare and open four plovers, make a farce of their
intestines, as directed for woodcocks, (article Ano-
ther Manner); stuff them with it; put in the bottom of
a dish d'entrée nearly an inch of gratin; (see Gratin,
article Farce ;) lay the plovers over it, fill up the
spaces between, and bring the farce all round, but
leave the stomachs out, which must be covered with
slices of bacon; put it in the oven, or if it is cooked,
lay it on the hearth ; let the fire be hotter above than
below;
when ready to serve, drain and sauce them with
a brown italienne. (See Sauce Italienne Rousse.)
Another Way.-Pluvier à la Périgueux.
Take four plovers and prepare them, put into a stew-
pan a dozen of truffles which have been pared, a bunch
of parsley, young onions, half a bay leaf, a clove, a lit-
tle basil, salt, and a little large pepper; pass them on the
fire in butter, moisten with a glass of champagne and
six large spoonfuls of espagnole ; cook the plovers in
this sauce; skim ; put them with the truffles into ano-
ther stewpan; rub the sauce through a tammy; dish
the plovers with a truffle between each, and arrange the


THRUSHES.
127
remainder en rocher, that is to say, pile them up over
the plovers; the sauce being reduced, and lemon juice
added, serve.
Another Way.- Pluviers en Entrée de Broche.
Prepare four plovers, open them at the back and
make a farce of the intestines, as directed for wood-
cocks; stuff them with this farce, sew up the back,
skewer and wrap them in lard cover with paper and
tie them to the spit: when they are done, dish them
and masque with a ragoût of truffles.
To roast Thrushes. Grives à la Broche.
(See Woodcocks à la Broche.)
Another Way.
Grives à la Flamande.
Prepare and truss the thrushes without drawing ;
put them into a stewpan with a bit of butter and
a few juniper berries ; strew over a little salt, toss, and
give them a good colour ; cover the stewpan and put
a little fire under and over ; rather keep them under-
done, and serve them with their seasoning.
To roast Thrushes.-Grives à l'Anglaise.
Prepare and truss the thrushes without opening ;
skewer them and fix the skewers upon the spit, and
wrap them in paper; when they are half done take
off the paper and put a bit of bacon on the end of the
skewers, let it broil and drop upon the thrushes ; pow-
der them with a little salt and crumbs of bread, give
them a good colour, and serve with sauce (au pauvre
Aomme) in a sauce-boat.
Quails roasted. -Cailles à la Broche.
Prepare and draw six or eight fat quails, wrap them
in vine leaves and slices of bacon, leaving half of the
claws out; skewer and spit them.
Quails with Bay.—-Cailles au Laurier.
Draw and prepare seven quails, make a farce of their
livers, with the livers of fowls, and raspt lard, a bay
leaf minced very fine, young onions hashed fine ; season
with salt and large pepper; stuff the quails and skewer
them ; wrap in lard and cover with paper, fix them to
G 4


128
FRENCH COOKERY.
the spit, and when sufficiently done, serve them with
the following sauce :
Cut some slices of ham, sweat it; when it begins to
stick, moisten with a glass of good wine, two large
spoonfuls of consommé, and as much reduced espagnole,
add two bay leaves and half a clove of garlic ; let it
boil and reduce to the consistence of sauce; pass it
through a tammy; have ready seven large bay leaves
blanched; when the quails are enough, take off the
lard and dish them with a bay leaf between each ; add
lemon juice to the sauce, pepper and a little butter;
pass, vannez, and sauce the quails.
Quails with Pease.-Cailles au petit Pois.
Draw and prepare seven or eight quails ; cover the
bottom of a stewpan with barbs of ham and veal, a
carrot, an onion, and a bunch of sweet herbs; cover
the quails with slices of lard and a round of paper :
make them boil and put fire under and over; when
done drain them, and masque with a ragoût of pease
(See Ragoût de petits Pois au lard.)
Cailles au Gratin.
Prepare and bone nine quails; cut a piece of the
crumb of bread three inches and a half wide and two
and a half in height; let it be like a bung, put round
it a slice of lard; put it into the middle of a dish,
cover it with gratin, slope it to a high point, and
see that it continues its sloping to the edge of the dish
till it comes to the thickness of half an inch; stuff the
quails with the same gratin (see article Gratin); dress
the quails upon the gratin, the claws out, but not be-
yond the bread ; fill up the intervals between the quails,
that the stomachs and claws may only be seen; cover
the breasts with slices of lard, put them in the oven
upon a little grill, or on the hearth with a little more fire
above than below ; let them take a good colour; when
enough take off the lard, and cut out the bread; drain
and put in a good brown italienne ; glaze the breasts of
the quails or not; add crests of fried bread between
each quail.


QUAILS.
129
Quails and Lettuce. -Cailles aux Laitues.
Prepare and truss eight quails; cover a stewpan
with slices of lard and one of ham; put in the quails,
pour a poêle over them; if there is none cut some
kidney fat of veal in dice, an onion stuck with a clove,
half a bay-leaf, a sliced carrot, a small bunch of
parsley and young onions; moisten with consommé
and half a glass of white wine ; cover with slices of
lard and a round of paper; half an hour before serving
make them boil and cook ; when enough, drain and
dish with lettuces (see Garnitures); fried bread of a
fine colour may be introduced between the quails
after they have been sauced with a good reduced es-
pagnole in which a bit of glaze has been dissolved.
If there is no espagnole, let the quails be done a
little earlier ; moisten the seasoning of the quails with
a little roux; reduce the sauce; pass it through
tammy; work it anew, and sauce the quails with it.
Quails in Crusts. -Cailles en Crustades.
Prepare six or seven quails; bone and stuff
them with a gratin made of their livers mixed with
those of fowls (see Gratin, art. Farce); sew up the
quails and marque them as in the foregoing receipt ;
make as many croustades as there are quails, (see
Hachis des Bécasses en Croustades) ; when they are done
draw out the thread and put them into the croustades ;
dish and sauce them with a good Italienne, in which
there is minced truffles done in butter,
Quails with Truffles-Cailles aux Truffes.
Draw by the crop six quails ; clean and turn nine
fine truffles into small ones ; mince the parings very
fine with the quails' livers ; season with salt and a
bit of butter; cook the whole lightly; let them
cool, stuff the quails; then marque them in a
stewpan, as directed for those done with let-
tuce; when done drain and serve them with a sauce
à la Périgueux; (see Art. Sauce aux Truffes or à la
Périgueux.)


130
FRENCH COOKERY.
To roast Larks. -Alouettes d la Broche.
Prepare twenty-four larks without opening them;
wrap each in a slice of lard, and skewer them as they
are done on a small skewer ; pass a pack-thread from
one side to the other lengthways to secure the lard ;
tie it to the spit ; cook them at a brisk and clear fire,
put toast in the dripping-pan to receive the fat, and
serve them upon it.
Larks another Way. -Alouettes au Gratin.
Prepare fifteen larks; cut them up the back ; bone
them and fill them with gratin ; (see Gratin, art. Farce);
cover a dish with about half an inch of the gratin;
lay the larks over it en couronne, that there may be
a well in the middle, as directed for quails au
gratin ; fill up with gratin, leaving nothing visible
but the breast, which must be covered with slices of
lard; put them into an oven; (these small dishes may be
cooked in a hearth-oven, or with fire under and over);
let them take a fine colour ; when enough take off the
lard and bread; sauce with a brown Italienne.
Larks with Truffle.
Sauté de Mauviettes aux
Truffes.
Prepare four dozen of larks and take off the fillets;
melt some butter in a sauté-pan; put in the fillets like
scollops, and put over them truffles cut like farthings;
put into a stewpan four spoonfuls of espagnole and
two of consommé, and add the carcases or débris
of the larks from which the gizzards have been taken,
with a glass of champagne ; let it stew half an hour ;
skim and rub it through a tammy; reduce it to half
glaze ; the fillets and truffles being cooked, drain off the
butter, preserving the juice; put the fillets, truffles,
and juice into the fumet, without allowing it to boil ;
toss it well, and finish with half a pat of butter.
Cold or hot Pâté of Larks. -Pâté chaud et Pâté
froid de Mauviettes.
(See article Patisserie).


PIGEOXS.
13)
Rouges-gorges, Ortolans, Muriers, et Berfigues.-
Red-throats, Ortolans, Becpecker, &c.
They are prepared in the same manner as larks, and
often roasted. (See Mauriettes.)
OF PIGEONS IN GENERAL.
Des Pigeons.
The wood-pigeon differs from the others in colour
and taste; the young are the best, which are known by
their nails being shorter than the old. They are
eaten for the most part roasted; the old are of no
use but for the pot.
Wood Pigeons in pickle. Ramereaus en Marinade.
Prepare three young wood-pigeons, cut them in
two or four, and cook them in a weak marinade (see
Marinade); a little before serving them drain them on
a cloth; dip them in páte à frire ; fry them of a
good colour; drain and serve them as other marinades.
Ramereau. Podlés.
Prepare and singe lightly three or four young
pigeons; truss them with their legs within; cover a
stewpan with slices of lard, and a slice of ham,
a bunch of parsley and young onions, a sprig of
sweet basil, half a bay-leaf, two onions, one stuck
with a clove, a carrot cut in four, a small glass of
red or white wine; put in the pigeons; corer with
slices of lard; let them boil and put them on a
paillasse with a moderate fire under and over; give
them three quarters of an hour; drain and serve them
under a poirrade with a very little acid.
Ramereaus à l Etouffade.
Prepare the pigeons; prepare small lard; season
with salt, pepper, parsley and young onions minced,
fine spices, powder of aromatics; it is necessary the
basil should prevail a little; lard the pigeons; marque
them in a stewpan as directed in the foregoing
article; let them be well done; dish them; pass their
seasoning through a tammy; sauce and serve.
G6


132
FRENCH COOKERY.
TURTLE DOVES.
Des Tourtereaux.
The turtle dove is more esteemed than the wood-
pigeon although drier ; the wild are of a better flavour
than the domestic; the male is distinguishable by a
black ring about his neck; like the others they are ge-
nerally eaten roasted.
FOWLS.--VOLAILLE.
Poulets.
There are four kinds: 1st. the common fowl, which is
used for fricassées and farces: 2d. the half fat fowls,
which are used in raw marinades, curries, and different
entrées which do not require large fowls : 3d. the
small fat fowl, which is more delicate, and serves either
or an entrée or roasting: 4th. the large fat fowl which
is commonly used for the spit: it is about the end of
April that the young fowls become in season; they
are easily known by the whiteness of their skin, and
the young points of their feathers are not easily
picked out; their claws are more united than those
of the old, softer to the touch, and of a light slate
colour. Old poultry are fit for nothing but strength-
ening broth and stock, the flesh being hard and dry.
Fricassée of Fowls.-Fricassée de Poulets.
Prepare and truss two fowls; cut the nails; take
out the craw (once for all); cut them up by taking
off the legs; cut off the drumsticks; break the thigh-
bones about the middle and take out half of the bone;
cut the small end off the stump and take off the
pinions from the wings; cut off the points; cut the
wings at the joint ; take care of the breast in sepa-
rating it from the back; pare the ends of the sides;
cut the back in two; pare the rump; cut off the little
point and the tube ; pare the back and take out the
intestines ; put into a stewpan two pints of water, a
sliced onion, four sprigs of parsley, a little salt, with


134
FRENCH COOKERY.
Poulets en Entrée de Broche.
Prepare two fat white fowls of an equal size; singe
them carefully, open them by the craw and draw out
the intestines with the hook of a skimming-spoon,
taking care not to break the gall; put into a stewpan
about three quarters of a pound of butter, salt, lemon-
juice and nutmeg; mix all cold together with a wooden
spoon; stuff the fowls equally with it, and truss them for
an entrée, that is, with the feet out; tie the wings with a
pack-thread so that the skin of the breasts may cross
the back; take the skin off a lemon quite close, cut it in
two, and rub the stomach and front parts well to
make them white, and squeeze the remaining part of
the juice over them; cover a stewpan with slices of
lard, put in the fowls, an onion stuck with two cloves,
a bunch of parsley and young onions, half a bay-leaf,
half a clove of garlic, a slice of ham, and some parings
of veal; rub again with lemon, take out the seeds, cut
it in slices, with which cover the breasts of the fowls,
and over this lay slices of bacon; moisten with a ladle-
ful of bouillon, or poêle ; if there is no poêle, add a
glass of white wine with the bouillon ; cover with paper
and a cover ; let them boil, put them upon a paillasse,
and let moderate fire be put under and over; when
enough, drain and unlace them, let the butter run out ;
dish and serve under them a truffle sauce, a high sea-
soned Espagnole, love-apple, tarragon, aspic, mushroom,
or a mixed ragoût, &c.
Poulets à l'Ivoire.
Prepare and poêle two fowls as is directed above,
except that the feet must be cut off, and polish the
ends of the stumps ; when enough drain and sauce them
with a sauce à l'ivoire (see that article).
Fowls with Oyster Sauce. Poulets Sauce aux Huîtres.
Prepare two fowls as for an entrée de broche, or roast-
ing; cook them in the same manner, drain and dish;
put six dozen of oysters into a stewpan with their own
juice, let them stiffen ; put into another stewpan four
large spoonfuls of reduced velouté, drain the oysters


FOWLS.
135
and throw them into the velouté; give them a boil, put
in a little blanched minced parsley, a pat of butter, and a
little large pepper ; when ready to serve, squeeze in a lit-
tle lemon-juice, taste, and pour it over the fowls.
Fouls with Truffle. Poulets Sauce aur Truffes.
As directed above with Truffle Sauce.
Fowls with Love Apple. —Poulets aus Sauce Tomate.
The same with love-apple sauce.
Fowls with Tarragon-Poulets à l' Estragon,
The same with [Estragon Sauce.
Forels as Lizards. Poulets en Lézard.
Prepare two fine fowls; cut off the legs and pinions,
keeping the skin entire, even that of the throat; open
them by the back-bone entirely, spread them upon a
dean cloth, farce them with a farce cuite de volaille ;
strip them, giving them the form of a lizard; make the
stuffed neck the tail, the thighs the hind legs, and the
ends of the wings the fore legs, the breast the back,
and for the head a truffle cut into the shape, or a tur.
nip, which must be introduced into the body; soften
some of the farce cuite with a little velouté, spread it
thinly over the back of the lizard, decorate it with dif-
ferent coloured omelets, white, green, red, and yellow;
imitate the rich colours of the animal (see petites ome-
lettes); cover an oval stewpan with barbs of lard, put
in the lizards, taking care to preserve their form;
poêle them as fowls à l'entrée de broche ; cover with
strong paper and a cover ; let them boil, and then sim-
mer with very little fire over, as it would alter the co-
lour; when done drain them, and serve them upon a
rarigote or Hollandaise terte. (See these articles.)
Fowls with Pease.—Poulets aur Pois.
Take half a pound of the breast lard, cut it in large
dice, take off the skin and blanch it; drain and put it
into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter;
make a rous (see that article) ; pass the lard in it,
letting it brown a little; when it is a fine white, put
in two young fowls, cut up as for a fricassée; moisten
with a ladle-full of bouillon, mix it well; season with


136
FRENCH COOKERY.
parsley, young onions, half a bay leaf, and a clove; let
it boil, put in a quart of young pease, cook it over a
strong fire, without a cover ; skim it ; when done, dish
the fowls, and reduce the sauce if too thin ; taste,
masque the fowls, and send to table.
Another Way. -- Autre Façon de fricasser des Poulets
aux Pois et au Blanc.
Prepare two young fowls as for the fricassée ; put a
piece of butter in a stewpan with them, parsley, young
onions, salt, two small onions, toss them and let them
boil ; cover and cook them slowly, with fire under and
over them; when half done put in a quart of young
pease
which have been handled in water, and a small
bit of butter ; drain them in a cullender, let them sweat
and cook together, tossing them from time to time;
when enough, take out the bunch of sweet herbs, and
the onions; thicken with a large spoonful of good re-
duced velouté; if there is no velouté, mix a little butter
with flour, and thicken with it; serve this fricassée as
the foregoing.
Fowls with Craw-Fish Sauce. Poulets au Beurre
d'Ecrivisse.
Prepare and cook the fowls as is directed (Poulets
en entrée de broche); put into a stewpan four spoonfuls
of reduced velouté, and about the size of an egg of
beurre d'écrivisse ; pass it over the fire, and work it;
put it into the dish, and lay the fowls over it.
To roast Fowls. · Poulets à la Broche pour Rôt.
Take two large fine fat fowls or three small ones (à
la reine *); lard one of the large; if they are small, one
or two; cover with barbs of lard to wrap them in paper
and roast them; when they are three-fourths done,
take off the paper, and let them finish drying the lard ;
let them take a nice brown, and if there is any glaze, do
the lard gently with a brush ; dish them upon cresses
seasoned with salt and vinegar.
• The name given to fine small white fat fowls.
+ Barbs of lard, is bacon cut over in large thin slices, so that any
thing may be wrapt in or covered with it.


FOWLS.
137
Fowls with Green Sauce. · Poulets à la Hollandaise.
Prepare and cook two fowls as for an entrée de
broche; drain and put them into a stewpan, take four
large spoonfuls of reduced velouté, with a bit of glaze
the size of a thumb, or veal stock, and as much green
of spinnage ; toss and vannez the sauce; when ready to
serve, add some lemon-juice ; put the sauce in the dish,
and serve the fowls over it. It is necessary that they
should be
very
white.
Grilled Fowls, Poulets à la Tartare.
Prepare two fowls, truss them en poule, that is, the
legs as for boiling ; open them down the back, flatten,
break the thigh-bones; put a bit of butter into a stew-
pan, with salt and large pepper; let them boil, and
cook them with fire under and over ; a quarter of an
hour before serving, pass them*, and put them upon the
gridiron over a moderate fire, taking care to turn them
two or three times to give them a fine colour, and serve
under a sauce (à la Tartare).
Fowls another Way.
Poulets Sauce au paurre
Homme, et diverses autres.
Prepare the fowls as is directed above, taking off the
necks and legs ; cut them down the backs and flatten
them; cook them half in butter with salt and
pepper;
finish (without passing them upon the gridiron,
and serve under a sauce au pauvre homme, tarragon,
love-apple, or any other.
Fowls with Truffles.---- Poulets à la Périgueux.
Prepare two fine white fat fowls, they must be drawn
by the craw; clean two pounds of truffle, make the
small ones as equal as possible ; put a pound of rasped
lard into a stewpan ; put in the truffles with their
parings which have been minced, salt, large pepper,
fine spices, nutmeg, and a bay-leaf, which must be
taken out afterwards; let them simmer half an hour
upon a slow fire, shaking them carefully; take them
off the fire, and let them cool; put the fowls upon a
cloth, and stuff them equally at the breast with the
* Pass them, signifies to do them over the fire in a little
butter to prepare them for grilling.


138
FRENCH COOKERY.
truffles, truss them en poulets d'entrée; skewer them;
cover them with slices of lard and two or three sheets
of paper ; tie them upon the spit, and give them nearly
five quarters of an hour; take off the paper, dish them,
and serve upon a sauce à la Périgueur.
Poulet à la Mayonnaise.
Take a roasted fowl, and do it in the same manner
as directed for the perdreaux à la mayonnaise.
Salad of Fowls. Salade de Poulets.
Take two cold roasted fowls, (or dessert, that is to
say, what has been left from a former day,) cut them
up as for a mayonnaise; put them into an earthen
dish, season them in the same manner as a salad, add
whole capers, gherkins cut in fillets, and other minced
materials of that kind; mix altogether ; dish it as a
fricassée de poulets ; garnish the border of he dish with
fresh lettuce cut in quarters, hard eggs cut in the
same manner; strew over the pickles, anchovies, ca-
pers and gherkins, which were kept out on purpose ;
sauce with the seasoning.
Fowls in Cream. Poulets à la Crème.
Take two cold roasted fowls, cut out the breasts with
the bones close to the thighs, take out the intestines,
make a mince of the breasts of the fowls in the follow-
ing manner: take off the white, skinning it, mince it
very fine ; pare and pound nicely a veal's udder that
has been cooked in the stock pot; if there is none, use
rasped lard or butter ; ke the crumb of a penny roll,
steep and dry it in rich cream; put in an equal
quantity of these three ingredients, pound altoge-
ther; add five yolks of eggs, salt, and nutmeg; try the
farce ; add three whites well whipt lightly with
a spoon, and two shalots minced very fine, washed
and
wrung
in a, cloth ; minced parsley may also be
added ; mix altogether ; put two slices of lard upon a
tart-pan; fill the fowls with the farce, unite it with a
knife dipt in omelet; let the fowls have their original
shape ; glaze them with yolk, and carve any design
upon them; cover them with buttered paper, fix it


FOWLS.
139
round with a thread ; put them upon the tart-pan, and
three quarters of an hour before serving them, put them
into the oven ; let them take a fine colour ; dish, and
serve under them a white Italienne, or a sauce au su-
préme, or one à l'ivoire. All these will be found at
their articles.
Poulets en Friteau.
Cut up two fowls as for a fricassée, put them into an
earthen dish with slices of onions, branches of parsley,
salt, large pepper, and the juice of two or three le-
mons; leave them to marinade an hour; drain and put
them into a cloth, with a handful of flour; shake them
in it, and lay them upon a cover ; when the friture has
come to its degree, put in first the legs, a little after
the breasts, and then the wings, the back, and so on
till it is all in ; when cooked of a fine colour, it may be
served with six fresh fried eggs laid over, and a poiv-
rade under it.
Marinade de Poulets.
Cut up two roasted fowls, marinade them half an hour,
(see Marinade cuite) drain and dip them into (páte à
frire) batter, which has been made with whites only;
fry the marinade as directed above; when it is enough,
and of a fine colour, drain upon a cloth; dish upon
fried parsley, or only with a bouquet, or small bunch
on the top.
Ditto forced Meat in Paste. — Rissoles de Volaille.
Take some parings of puft paste, roll it out long,
the thickness of a crown-piece, and thinner if possible ;
wet the borders with a brush dipt in water ; lay upon
the paste ( farce cuite de volaille) in small bails from
distance to distance; turn over the paste upon them,
and cut them with a paste cutter in crescents or rounds;
unite the paste well; flour a cover, and arrange the
Tissoles upon it; when ready to serve fry them of a
fine colour.
Ditto. - Poulet en Capilotade.
Cut up a roasted fowl; put into a stewpan three
large spoonfuls of Italienne ; if there is none employ


140
FRENCH COOKERY.
a sauce hachée, and in default of that a pauvre homme ;
let the fowl simmer in one of these sauces a quarter of
an hour before serving ; dish and add to the sauce
gherkins cut in small rounds and fillets.
Poulets à la Saint-Cloud.
Prepare two fowls as for an entrée de broche ; take
two or three very black truffles; make little nails of
them ; decorate the fowls with them, which is done by
putting one into each hole made in the breast with a
small larder; it is necessary to make the holes at
equal distances; cover a stewpan with slices of bacon,
an onion stuck with a clove, a turned carrot, a bunch
of parsley and young onions ; strew over the breast
a little fine salt and a squeeze of a lemon; cover
with lard and a round of paper; moisten with a poêle,
or a glass of consommé, or bouillon, with a glass of
white wine, half a bay-leaf, and a slice of ham: three
quarters of an hour before serving make them boil,
put them on a paillasse, with fire under and over ;
when enough drain, dish and serve with a truffle
sauce; if there is no velouté, pass the stock of the
fowls; put in a pat of butter, mixed with half a spoon-
ful of flour ; let it boil, and skim it; reduce and pass
it through a tammy; put in the small dice of truffle,
(as for the sauce en petit-deuil) passed in butter; finish
with half a pat of butter.
Poulets à la Ravigote.
Prepare two fowls as for an entrée de broche, or
roasting; serve them with a sauce à la ravigote.
Ditto. — Poulets à la Paysanne ou à la Démidoff.
Cut up two fowls as for a fricassée ; put about the
size of an egg of butter into a stewpan, and four
spoonfuls of olive-oil; pass it over a quick fire; give
them a good colour; season with salt and large pep-
per; when half done, add two sliced carrots, four
onions cut in rings, and a few branches of parsley; pass
them altogether; and when the roots are coloured,
moisten the paysanne with six large spoonfuls of Espa-
gnole ; shake it ; let it simmer softly over cinders for a
quarter of an hour; take care it does not stick.


FOWLS.
141
Poulets à la Reine, Sauce à la Pluche verte.
Prepare and poéle three of these fowls, and masque
them with a pluche verte.
Ditto.
-Poulets à la Provençale.
Prepare two fowls as for a fricassée ; take a dozen of
white onions, and cut them in half rings with a little
parsley; put the onions in a stew or sauté-pan, laying
in a bed of onions and parsley, and one of fowl, till all
are in; add a glass of oil; one or two bay leaves, and
salt; when they have boiled, leave them to simmer
slowly; dish and glaze them, putting the onions in the
middle; sauce them with a little Espagnole.
Boiled Capon.- Chapon au gros Sel.
Prepare a capon; truss the legs within, barb and
cook it in the stock-pot or bouillon ; try if enough
done by pinching the pinion; drain, dish, and put a
little large salt upon the breast, and sauce it with re-
duced gravy of beef.
Capon with Rice. —- Chapon au Riz.
Prepare the capon as above; blanch three quarters
of a pound of rice; drain, and put it into a pot that is
capable of containing the capon also; lay it in upon
the breast ; moisten with two large spoonfuls of con-
sommé or bouillon ; let it boil and simmer upon a
paillasse ; take care to stir the rice from time to time;
try if the capon is enough done; dish and skim the
rice; finish with a bit of butter, salt, large pepper,
and a little reduction, if there is any; masque the
capon ; if the rice is too thick, put in a little bouillon.
Capon stuffed with Truffle. — Chapon aux Truffes.
Prepare a capon as above; empty it by the craw;
use the hook of a skimming-spoon, and take care not
to break the gall; prepare two pounds of nice truffie,
hash mne broken or unseemiy ones, cut in dice, and
pound nearly a pound of fat bacon; put it into a stew-
pan with the truffle, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and fine
spices; simmer upon a slow fire about half an hour;
let them cool ; stuff the capon; sew and truss the legs


142
FRENCH COOKERY.
1
en long, that is to say, stretched out; hang it if pos-
sible two or three days; barb, that is to say, cover
them with lard ; spit and cover them with paper;
give it nearly an hour and half; if used for a remove,
take off the lard, and serve it with pig's skin over a
truffle sauce.
Fowl roasted. Poularde en Entrée de Broche.
Pluck the wings and the head of a pullet; truss up
the legs, taking care not to hurt the skin; pick it, take
out the canal, draw it by the crop, taking care not to
break the gall; mix a little butter with some lemon-
juice and salt, with a wooden spoon, and stuff the
pullet; truss the legs without; bind the wings;
skewer, and rub the breast with lemon ; strew on a
little salt, and cover with slices of lemon; cover it
with barbs of lard, and over these put several sheets
of paper, tied to the skewers at both ends ; fix it on
the spit; let it cook an hour ; take off the paper; drain
and serve it with any sauce.
Poularde aux Truffes.
See Capon aux Truffes.
Poularde à la Marechale.
Pick and singe a fine pullet; empty it by the
breast; fill it with butter worked with a little salt and
lemon-juice; truss the legs out; take out the canal ;
lard the breast with small lard ; make it look as large
as possible, and of a good form; marque it in a stew-
pan as the poulets (en entrée de broche), except that it
is only to be covered with a round of buttered paper ;
let it boil, and then cook it with fire under and over:
when enough, drain, and serve under it a ragoût à
la financière.
Poularde à la Saint-Cloud
Only differs from the foregoing, by being stuck
with cloves of truffle instead of being larded.
Fowls. --- Poulardes à la Bigarrure.
Take two small pullets, pick and singe them; take
off the wings, the small fillets, and nervous skin off the


FOWLS.
143
wings and pinions; lard two of the wings with lard,
and the other two with trufile half cooked; marque
these four wings in a stewpan covered with lard, a
carrot, parsley, young onions, and two small onions
stuck with two cloves; moisten with a little con-
sommé ; take care that the consommé does not reach
the lard of the wings; cover with a round of paper;
a quarter of an hour before serving, make them boil,
and finish with fire under and over; bone the thighs,
and fill them with a salpicon made of truffle and fat
livers; sew them up, giving them the shape of a flat-
tened fig; cut the leg in two, and stuff the lower half
into the thigh, that only a little bit may appear as a
stalk ; lard two with nails of truffle in form of roses,
and leave the other two white, to that end rub them
with lemon ; marque them in a stewpan between
slices of lard; season them in the same manner as the
wings; let them cook on a slow fire about three
quarters of an hour; when ready to serve, drain, take
out the threads; drain also the wings, and take the
Derves out of the small fillets; dish them without touch-
ing one another from distance to distance, and put in
crétes of truffles the size of the small fillets ; sauce
this entrée with a worked reduced espagnole, and
the consommé that was made of the carcases of the
fowls.
Fowls, Love-apple Sauce. - Poularde Sauce Tomate.
Prepare a pullet as is directed for Poulardes en
entrée de broche, and serve under it a love-apple.
sauce.
Roasted ditto.-- Poularde à la Broche pour Rót.
Prepare a fine pullet, leaving its legs en long; barb
or lard and spit it; wrap it in paper; and let it cook
three quarters of an hour ; undo, and let it take a fine
colour; cover the dish with cresses; season with
salt and vinegar.
Ditto. —La méme avec une Ho!londaise.
The same as entrée de broche, and sent to table upon
a hot Hollandaise.


144
FRENCH COOKERY.
1
i
Poularde en Entrée de Broche.
Poêlez or roast a pullet, and serve with sauce au
beurre d'écrevisses.
Poularde en Entrée de Broche à la Ravigote.
The same as pullets à la ravigote.
Poularde à l'Ivoire.
The same as pullets a l'ivoire.
Poularde aux Huîtres.
The same as pullets aux huîtres.
Poularde Sauce à l'Estragon.
Prepare the pullet either in a poêle, or roasted, and
serve it with a tarragon sauce, clear or thick.
Poularde au Beurre d'Ecrevisse.
The same as pullets au beurre d'écrevisses.
Poularde à la Tartare.
The same as pullets à la tartare.
Poularde Sauce au pauvre Homme.
The same as pullets sauce au pauvre homme.
Poularde à la Périgueux.
(See Pullets à la Périgueux.)
Mayonnaise de Poularde.
(See Mayonnaise de Poulets.)
Poularde à la Crême.
(See article Poulets à la Crême.)
Marinade de Poulardes.
(See article Marinade de Poulets.)
Fillets of Fowls. Fillets de Poularde au Suprême.
Take off the fillets of three small pullets, skin them
as nicely as possible, beat and pare them lightly;
melt in a sauté-pan some butter, dip the fillets entirely
in it, arrange them in the pan, strew over a little sali,
and cover with a round of paper :, take off the six
legs to make an entrée either for that or the following
day ; make a consommé of the carcases; reduce it nearly
to glaze, without giving it any colour: put in six large
spoonfuls of reduced velouté, and rather a iarge piece
1


FOWLS.
145
of butter; salt vannez ; toss the fillets and turn them;
they must be kept very white; take care that they be
well done; cut six pieces of crumb the size and
shape of the fillets, and pass them in butter; dish the
fillets en couronne, putting a toast between each ; work
the sauce and masque the entrée; if truffle is required,
cut some in small rounds, like sixpences, and do them
in a little butter and salt; put them into a part of the
sauce, and
pour
them into the well of the entrée.
Minced Fowl with Cucumbers. Emincée de Filets
de Poulardes aux Concombres.
Take the breasts off one or two cold roasted fowls;
mince them; make a ragoût of cucumbers either
white or brown; when it is reduced and ready to serve,
put in the mince without letting it boil; if it is white,
add two yolks to thicken it, with the size of a walnut
of butter, and a little nutmeg.
Wings of Fowls with Endive. - Ailes de Poulardez
à la Maréchale.
Take three fine pullets, cut off the wings, and sup-
press the pinions; take off the skin with a knife, in the
same manner as a slice of bacon is taken off ; take care
not to hurt the flesh ; lard them double and marque
them in a stewpan, as is directed, Poulardes en bigar-
rures ; when enough, drain them upon a cover; glaze
them of a fine white; dish upon a nice reduced white
endive; form a rose of the wings upon the centre of
the dish, and put a fine truffle on the top.
Fowl. - - Poularde en Galantine.
Open and bone a fine pullet by the back, lay it
on a cloth, cover it with farce cuite à la volaille,
about the thickness of a finger; cut large lard, season
it with salt, pepper, fine spices, pounded and sifted
aromatics, parsley and young onions minced; also
lardons of some cooked ham, the same size as the
other; if it is the season for fresh truffles, cut some
also of the same size, and dispose these lardons upon
the farce in such manner as to marble it; cover over
with farce; marble again with the lardons, and con-
H


146
1
FRENCH COOKERY.
tinue till it is finished ; then sew up the fowl and give
it as much as possible its own form; cover it with slices
of bacon, and sew it up in a new cloth, and tie the
two ends with a thread; cover a stewpan with carrots,
onions, two cloves, two bay leaves, two or three slices
of ham, a knuckle of veal, and the carcase of the
fowl cut in pieces; put in the fowl upon the back;
press the breast with the hand to flatten it a little;
cover the galantine with slices of lard; put in bouillon,
which must cover it; cover with paper, and let it
boil; put on the cover and set it upon a paillasse, with
fire over and under ; give it an hour and a half, or two
hours; when enough, take it from the fire, leave it in
the seasoning half an hour, then take it off and press
it lightly ; flatten again the stomach as much as pos-
sible, that a jelly garnishing may lie better upon it;
pass the seasoning of the galantine through a wet
cloth; if the colour is
strong enough, reduce it;
break two eggs, yolks, whites, and shells; put them
into the jelly, whip it, and put it on the fire, keep
stirring it; when it begins to boil, draw it to the corner
of the stove and cover; lay over it some very hot cin-
leave it to clarify from a half to three quarters of
an hour; run it through a cloth (see grand Aspic); let
it cool; untie the galantine ; take off the fat; dish it
upon a napkin, garnish with the jelly in any marmer
that is most convenient.
Fillets of Fowl. Filets de Poulardes à la Béch-
amolle.
Take the breasts of two roasted pullets ; mince them
very equally ; put into a stewpan five large spoonfuls
of õéchameile, two of consommé, and a little nutmeg;
make it boil, and work the sauce well that it may not
stick; when ready to serve, throw in the mince, and
mix it carefully; put it into a bordered dish; if there
is none ready, garnish with fried bread, or flowers, or
leaves of pastry ; or send it to table in a vol-au-vent.
Suffly of Foul. — Soufflé de Poularde.
See Soufflé de Perdreaux.
ders;


FOWLS.
147
Hash of Fowl.-— Hachis de Poularde à la Reine.
Proceed as above, only make the mince much finer;
put béchamelle and consommé into a stewpan; let it
boil and work the sauce; when ready to serve, put in
the mince; do not let it boil; finish with a little butter
and nutmeg; it must neither be too thick nor too
thin. This hash may be served either as a great or
small vol-au-vent.
Croquettes of Fowl. — Croquettes de Poulardes.
Take the white part of a roasted pullet; cut it in
dice; also some fat livers, mushrooms, and trutiles, all
of the same size; put them into a saucepan with suffi-
cient quantity of velouté, and reduce to half glaze ;
thicken with three yolks, and add a little nice buiter;
mix it well, and put it upon a well-tinned cover to
cool; then divide it into the size of croquettes, and
give them any form; strew crumbs of bread upon the
table, roll them in it, then dip them in an omelet, and
again roll them in the crumbs, completing their form;
when ready to serve fry in a hot pan that they may
not break; drain them on a cloth; serve hot upon fried
parsley.
Cutlets of Fowls. Côtelettes de Poulardes ou de
Poulets.
See Cutlets de Perdreaui.
Blanquette of Fowl. — Blanquette de Poularde.
Take the flesh of a cold roasted fowl, or remainder,
and nince it; put into a stewpan some velouté, reduce
and skim it; when ready to serve, put in the mince ;
do not let it boil; cook it with a little cream or milk,
and put in a bit of butter; it must neither be too
thick nor too thin.
Fillets of Foul. Filets de Poularde à la Chingara.
Take the fillets from three pullets as is directed
(Filets de Poulardes); melt some butter in a sauté-pan,
and arrange them in it; strew over a little fine salt, and
cover with a round of paper; cut six pieces from a
redded tongue, the same size of the fillets; put them
H 2


148
FRENCH COOKERY.
into a stewpan with a little bouillon ; keep them warm
without letting them boil; toss the fillets as directed
au suprême ; when done, drain them ; dish them with
a slice of tongue between; if it is necessary that the
entrée should be larger, mix fried bread of the same
shape and sauce, with a sauce au suprême.
Legs of Fowls with small Onions, or as Swans..
Cuisses de Poulardes en Canetons, ou en petits oignons.
Take the fillets of three fine cold roasted pullets,
taking care not to hurt the skin of the legs, which
must be partly boned, leaving a part of the leg-bone
which is next the claw; fill the legs with a salpiçon made
of fat livers, truffles, and mushrooms; give them the
shape of a swan's neck, the claw forming the beak;
fix it with a thread to keep its form; make two in-
cisions, one to form the height on the beak, the other
upon the back of the claw, which represents the head;
take six fine large craw-fish with equal claws; boil
them in stock; take off the large claws; make of them
the wings of a swan by sticking them into the sides;
cover the bottom of a stewpan with barbs of lard;
put in the cygnets as if they were swimming; lay
upon each a slice of lemon, that they may be very
white;
moisten with a poéle; cover with barbs of lard
and paper ; three quarters of an hour before serving
make it boil, and put it on a paillasse with a little fire
over;
when done drain and unlace them; serve them
upon a green sauce (Hollandaise vert), or beurre
d'ecrevisses.
Legs of Fowls another Way. Cuisses de Poulardes
en Ballon.
Bone six or eight pullets' legs, as in the foregoing
article; put them upon a cloth and stuff them with a
salpiçon; sew them up as poulardes en bigarrure ;
marque them in a stewpan covered with barbs of lard;
moisten with a poêle ; cook them about three quarters
of an hour; when ready to dish, drain, and serve
under them a good Italienne rousse.


FOWLS.
149
Legs of Fowls another Way. — Cuisses de Poulardes à
la Bayonnaise.
Take the hinder parts of two fowls; keep the legs
attached to the skin; bone them entirely but the bit
next the claw; put them into a marinade of lemon-
juice, salt, large pepper, and a bruised bay-leaf; let
them be two or three hours in it; when ready to serve
drain, flour, and fry them in rasped lard; cut four onions
in rings; take out the hearts; fry; take care they
are all of a good colour; dish upon a poivrade sauce,
and
arrange
the onions over.
Legs of Fowls another Way. — Cuisses de Poulardes
à la Livournois.
Take six pullets' legs, and bone as above; pare;
cover a stewpan with barbs * of carrots, two onions,
parsley, and young onions seasoned with aromatics and
a barb of ham; put in the legs; moisten with a ladleful
of stock; cover it with some of barbs of lard and a
round of paper ; turn some carrots into shapes ; blanch,
drain, and do them in stock till they fall into glaze ;
add a little bit of sugar to take off the bitter ; put into
a saucepan five or six large spoonfuls of Espagnole;
add the carrots; boil, skim, and drain the legs; add
a bit of butter to the ragoût; toss it, and masque
the
entrée.
Legs of Fowls with Truffle. Cuisses de Poulardes
aux Truffes.
Bone six pullets' legs as is directed, (see Cuisses en
ballon ;) stuff them with a salpiçon made of truffles and
fat livers ; sew them up; marque them in a stewpan
as is directed in the foregoing receipt; finish in the
same manner; drain, unlace, and serve upon a ragoût
of truffles. (Ragoût aux Truffes.)
Quenelles de Poulardes.
(See Quenelles de Volailles.)
Wings of Fowls with Haricots. Ailerons de Pou-
lardes en Haricot Vierges.
Take twenty pullets' wings, bone them to the half of
* That is, cut in thin slices.
H 3


150
FRENCH COOKERY.
the first joint; singe, pare, and wipe them with a cloth;
marque a stewpan with barbs of lard; put in the wings;
moisten with poêle or white bouillon ; if there is no
poêle put in some slices of lemon without peel or
seeds, with a bunch of parsley and young onions, a
cut carrot, two onions, one stuck with a clove, and
half a bay-leaf; cover with barbs of lard and a round
of
paper; let it boil and cook upon a paillasse with
fire under and over; turn some turnips in the form of
small corks, cloves of shalots, or in mushrooms; blanch
and put them in a stewpan with white bouillon and
a little bit of sugar; let them be done on a slow fire;
put into another stewpan four large spoonfuls of
velouté; reduce it; let a quart of cream be boiled, and
put it by degrees into the sauce, turning it con-
stantly until it has acquired the consistence of a clear
broth; drain the turnips and put them into the sauce;
add a little nutmeg and a bit of butter, and toss
them; drain the wings; dish and masque them with
the turnips, and garnish round with slices of ham.
Another Way.
Ailerons de Poulardes en Haricots.
Prepare the wings as directed in the last receipt;
turn the turnips in the same way, and fry them a fine
brown; drain and put them into a stewpan with a
ladleful of Espagnole; let it boil, and throw in the
turnips ; let them simmer and cook; dish the wings and
masque them with the turnips ; if there is no Espagnole,
when the turnips have been fried, drain them, and
put into the butter a spoonful of flour, and make a
little roux; moisten it with the stock of the wings; boil
this sauce; pass it through a tammy into a stewpan;
add the turnips ; let them cook; skim, and put in a bit
of sugar; taste, and masque the wings with it.
Another Way:
Ailerons de Poulardes à la Purée.
Cook the wings as above, and marque them with any
purées d entrées.
Another Way.
Ailerons de Poulardès au Soleil.
Prepare these wings as above, and dip them into a


FOWLS.
151
light batter (pâte à frire); fry them of a fine colour,
and serve with a tuft of fried parsley over.
Another Way. — Terrine d' Ailerons de Poulardes."
Prepare a sufficient quantity of wings as above;
cook as much petit lard as is necessary for them, and
finish in the manner directed in the article Mouton dit
Terrine.
Another Way. — Ailerons de Poulardes piqué et glacée.
Take twelve or fifteen wings; after preparing and
boning them, lard them double; put into the bottom of
a stewpan a little veal-kidney fat, one or two slices of
ham, an onion stuck with a clove, a cut carrot, a
bunch of parsley and young onions; arrange the wings
with the larded sides up, that they may not touch the
seasoning; moisten with good broth, and cover with a
round of paper ; let them boil, and cook upon a paillasse
with a quick fire under and over, that they may take
a fine colour; when enough, pass their stock through a
gauze search ; let it fall almost to glaze in a sauté-pan,
which ought to be large enough to contain the wings
without being placed one upon another; turn the
larded sides under into the glaze, that they may, be
wet with it; put the pan upon hot cinders; when they
are glazed dish them with a fork, the larded sides
upward; put to the remainder of the glaze a large
spoonful of Espagnole and one of consommé; let it boil;
detach the glaze, and sauce the wings with it.
Another Way. — Ailerons de Poulardes à la Chicorée.
Prepare these pullets' wings as above; cook them
in the same manner, and send them to table over a
good chicorée blanche.
Another Way. – Ailerons de Poulardes à la pluche
Verte.
Prepare fifteen wings of pullets as above; cover a
stewpan with slices of veal and ham, a dozen mush-
room stalks, half a shalot, half a bay-leaf, and a little
basil; put in the wings; cut two carrots and two onions
in slices; cover the wings with them; moisten with
H 4


152
FRENCH COOKERY.
.
consommé or bouillon ; let them boil, and put them upon
a paillasse with fire under and over; when enough,
pass the stock through a silk search; add a little
bit of butter worked in flour; thicken by turning
and shaking; reduce it to the consistence of sauce;
add a few parsley leaves that have been blanched;
a little lemon-juice and large pepper; dish the wings,
and
masque
them with the sauce.
Another Way.
Ailerons de Poulardes à la Ville Roi.
Prepare twelve or fifteen wings of pullets; bone
them to the first joint, and stuff them with farce cuite
de volailles ; marque them in a stewpan as the wings
larded and glazed, and do them in the same manner;
when done, drain and put them on a tart-pan; cover
them with a sainte-menéhould; strew them with crumbs
of bread mixed with the same quantity of rasped
parmesan; give them a good colour in the oven, and
serve them dry.
Cocks' Combs and Kidneys --Crêtes et Rognons au
velouté.
Prepare and do them in a blanc ; drain, and put them
to a sufficient quantity of reduced velouté; let them
simmer some minutes ; thicken; add a little butter and
lemon-juice.
Grand Aspic de Crêtes et de Rognons.
Take an aspic mould ; if there is none of the size
use a stewpan; put it within another vessel filled
with broken ice; run into the mould the depth of an
inch of aspic; decorate it fancifully with truffles, lard,
yolks, gherkins, tails, spawn of craw-fish, cocks' combs
and kidneys; then run in more aspic, taking care not
to derange the decorations ; when it has again taken,
fill
up
the mould with the combs and kidneys, leaving
two inches all round clear, which must be filled with
aspic, as well as the mould entirely, so that it may
come out in one piece; when ready to serve, dip
the mould into warm water; turn it over upon a
cover, leaving the mould; when it is well placed, run it
carefully on a dish, and take the mould off; remove


FOWLS.
153
the jelly which has run with a straw; wipe the dish,
and serve.
There may also be made in the same manner assics
of the white of fowls, fillets of hare or partridges; if
the mould is formed with a well, it may be filled with
a mayonnaise, or a revigote à la gelée.
Kidneys and Combs in Jelly--Petits Aspics de Crétes
et de Rognons.
Proceed as the above, making what quantity may be
sufficient for the dish.
Fat Livets. — Foies gras à la Périgueue.
Take seven fat livers of pallets; lard them with
truffle nails*: marque them in a stewpan over barbs of
lard; moisten with a good mirepois ; if there is no mi-
repois put equal quantities of white wine and consommé,
salt, a sliced carrot, a clove stuck in one or two small
onions, a bunch of parsley and young onions, half a bay
leaf, and half a clove of garlic; cover with slices of
bacon and around of paper; let them simmer rather more
than twenty minutes, upon a paillasse, with fire under
and over; when done, drain, dish, and sauce them with a
Périgueur ; a crust of fried bread may be put between
each, and a fine truffle in the middle.
Another Way. — Foies gras au Gratin.
Take a silver dish, or any other that will stand the
oven, and can be presented at table; cover the bottom
with about an inch of gratin ; have ready, as in the
foregoing article, six or seven nice fat white livers, ar-
range them upon the gratin, leaving a well in the mid-
dle; fill up all the intervals between the livers in such
a manner that they form but one piece, having united
it all nicely with the blade of a knife; cover it with
buttered paper, put it in the oven ; when done, take
off the paper, open the well, and pour in a reduced
Espagnole or brown Italienne. See Mauviettes au Gratin.
Another Way.—Foies gras en Matelote.
Prepare six fat pullets livers as directed above
• Which are cut from truffles.
5


154
FRENCH COOKERY.
gras en Caisse.
herbs;
blanch and cook them as for a Périgueux; drain and
dish them, and sauce with a matelote : the entrée may
be enlarged or enriched by the addition of fried bread
and truffles, or either.
Another Way.
Foies
Make a round or square case, two inches and a half
high, and of a suitable size for the dish it is intended
to serve it on; oil it on the outside, cover the bottom
with about an inch of gratin ; having șix fat livers pre-
pared, put them into a stewpan with a bit of butter,
minced parsley, young onions, and mushrooms, salt,
pepper, and fine spices ; pass them over the fire; put
the case upon the grill, and put in the livers with the
let them do over a slow fire ; when done, put
the case upon a dish ; sauce with a good reduced Es-
pagnole and a little lemon-juice; if there appears any
butter swimming, skim it off.
Another Way.
Hatelettes de Foies gras.
See Hatelettes de Ris de Veau.
Another Way.Coquilles de Foies gras.
Prepare the necessary livers, cut them in slices, add
minced mushrooms, truffles, parsley, and small onions,
salt, pepper, fine spices, and a bit of butter; put the
whole into a stewpan, and pass them over the fire;
moisten with a little Espagnole and champagne ; reduce
to a thick sauce, and fill the scollop shells; strew over
crumbs of bread, and give them a fine colour in the
Oven.
TURKIES. · Dindes.
Turkey roasted with Truffle.—Dinde aux Truffes et
à la Broche.
Take a white fat turkey hen; prepare and open it at
the craw; take care not to break the gall; if that should
happen, it will be necessary to wash it, by putting se-
veral waters through the body; také three or four
pounds of truffle, clean it with care; take out any musty
ones, and hash those that are defective; pound a pound
of fat lard, put it into a stewpan with the minced
truffles, as also the whole ones; season with salt, large


TURKIES.
155
pepper, fine spices, and a bay leaf; pass the whole
upon a slow fire, and let them simmer from a half to
three quarters of an hour, take them off the fire and
shake them well; let them be nearly cold when the tur-
key is stuffed with them, which must be to the throat ;
sew it up; truss and cover it with slices of bacon ;
leave it three or four days to take the perfume ; spit it;
wrap it in strong paper; give it two hours; take the
paper off, and let it take a good colour.
Another Way. -Dinde en Galantine.
The same as Poulardes en Galantine.
Another Way.Dinde en Daube.
Take an old turkey; prepare and blanch the legs;
truss it en poule, that is, with the legs within; cut large
lard; season with salt, pepper, fine spices, aromatics
pounded and sifted, parsley and young onions minced
small; roll the lard well in this seasoning, then lard the
turkey crossways all over ; truss it and wrap it in a
cloth*, sew and tie the two ends; cover a stewpan with
sliced lard, and parings of veal, some slices of ham,
and
any
remainders of the seasoned lard ; if con-
venient, it would not be the worse if a knuckle of
veal ; lay the turkey over this bottom or fond, and add
salt, a large bunch of parsley and onions, two cloves
of garlic, two bay leaves, two or three carrots, and
four or five onions, one of which must be stuck with
three cloves ;, moisten with bouillon and a glass of
good brandy ; the turkey must be covered in the
liquor; cover with some slices of bacon and buttered
paper; let it boil, and put it upon a paillasse with fire
under and over; surround it with red cinders ; let it
simmer in this manner four hours; when half done,
turn the turkey, and taste if properly salted; when
enough, take it from the fire, let it nearly cool in the
seasoning; drain ; pass the seasoning through a gauze
search; clarify in the same manner as the grand aspic,
let it cool ; unlace, dish, and garnish with the jelly.
* Cloths for this purpose ought never to be washed with soap,
but lessived with wood ashes.
H 6


156
FRENCH COOKERY.
This turkey may also be served hot with part of
the stock reduced.
Turkies' Wings done in the same manner as those of
Fowls. Ailerons de Dindons accommodés de toutes
façons.
See Ailerons de Poulardes.
PIGEONS.
House Pigeons with Pease. · Pigeons aux Petits Pois.
Take three or four pigeons and prepare them, re-
turning the livers into their bodies; truss them with
legs within ; pick, and singe, and put a bit of butter
into a stewpan; let them stiffen, and take them out;
cut some petit lard in large dice; put it to steep
half an hour; pass it in the butter to give it a fine
colour; drain it, and put into the butter a spoonful of
flour; make a little roux ; let it be very white; put in
the pigeons and lard; turn them in the roux; moisten
by little and little with bouillon, and bring it to the
consistence of sauce; turn it till it boils; season with
parsley and young onions, half a bay leaf, half a clove
of garlic, and a clove; draw the stewpan to the cor-
ner of the stove to simmer; when they are half done,
put in a quart of young pease; take care to shake
them often; when done, if the sauce is too thin, drain
them, and reduce it; if required, add a little salt;
skim, dish; dress the pigeons, and masque them with
the ragodt of pease and petit lard.
Another Method.
Take three pigeons, and prepare them as in the
foregoing article; cover a stewpan with barbs of lard,
and put in the pigeons, with two sliced carrots, two
onions, one of them stuck with a clove, some parings
or debris of butchers' meat, a slice of ham, a little
salt, and sweet herbs, as in the foregoing receipt :
moisten with a ladleful of bouillon; cover with barbs
of lard ;
let them boil, and cover close with a round of
paper, and the lid of the stewpan ; when sufficiently


PIGEONS.
157
done, drain them, and serve them masqued with a
ragoût of pease. (See Ragoût de Pois.)
A Compot of Pigeons.—Compote de Pigeons.
Take three pigeons, and more if small ; prepare as
above; put a quarter of a pound of butter into a
stewpan, as much petit lard cut in dice, which has
been steeped; make a little roux; let the pigeons
come in it; moisten with a glass of wine and bouillon or
water, also a bunch of sweet herbs, garnished with half
a clove of garlic, a clove, two large handfuls of turned
mushrooms, and twenty small onions of an equal size,
which have been cooked in butter and very white ;
season with salt and large pepper ; when done skim
them, and if the sauce is thin, keep the pigeons hot
and reduce it, sauce and serve.
Another Way.- Pigeons au Blanc.
Prepare the pigeons as above ; let them degorge
half an hour ; blanch, drain, wipe, and put them in a
stewpan with a bit of butter; let them come upon a
slow fire without browning; dredge them with a little
flour, moisten with bouillon, and season as above with
sweet herbs, salt, and pepper; let them simmer a
quarter of an hour; add also two handfuls of turned*
mushrooms, with onions as above; when it is done
skim it; keep the pigeons hot, and reduce the sauce;
put in the pigeons, thicken with three yolks mixed in a
little milk or cream, and a little nutmeg; thicken the
sauce without allowing it to boil; if approved of, a
ļittle blanched minced parsley may be added; taste,
and serve the pigeons masqued with the ragoût.
Pigeons in Batter.—Marinade de Pigeons au Soleil.
Take three cold roasted pigeons, cut them in two,
and let them simmer twenty minutes in a marinade
cuite ; drain, and when ready to serve, dip them into
a light batter (see Pâte à Frire); when they have got
a fine colour, dish them with a tuft of fried parsley on
the top.
* Turned means to cut any thing nicely round with a knife or
cutter.


158
FRENCH COOKERY.
Another Way.Pigeons à la Crapandine.
Take three pigeons, truss the legs within, cut the
flesh off the breast by sliding in the knife at the side
of the leg, and running it up to the joint of the wing;
turn the breast over, and flatten the body with the
handle of a knife; take a stewpan large enough to
contain them in the flattened state; melt a bit of
butter in it; add salt and large pepper; put in the
pigeons with their breasts down; turn them, and when
three-fourths done, drain them and put them on the
grill over a slow fire; give them a fine colour, and serve
them under sauce au pauvre homme.
Small Pigeons. —Pigeons à la Gautier.
Take six or seven of these small pigeons, singe
them very carefully; they ought only to be seven or
eight days old; cut their nails; warm three quarters
of a pound of very nice butter, with the juice of two
or three lemons and a little fine salt; put in the pi-
geons; let them come lightly* ; do not pass them over
charcoal, as it would harden the skin; take them off
the fire and cover another stewpan with barbs of
lard; put in the pigeons, that the feet may be in the
middle of the stewpan; baste them over with the
whole of the butter, and moisten with a poêle: if there
is none, put in a glass of white wine, and a ladleful
of consommé, a quarter of raspt lard, and a seasoned
bunch of sweet herbs ; cover the pigeons with barbs of
lard, and a round of paper; a quarter of an hour
before serving, make them boil and put them upon a
paillasse ; dish them with a nice crawfish between
each, and a fine truffle on the top; sauce them either
with a sauce vert beurre d'écrevisses, or an aspic.
Another Way.—Pigeons au Basilic.
If there are as many of these small pigeons left, or of
dessert, (the French call any thing left dessert,) to
make an entrée, take a farce cuite de volaille, and put into
it a small quantity of minced basil if it is green; if
dry, pound and sift it: cut off the feet of the pigeons,
Let them come, that is, let them stiffen; let them come lightly,
is to let them stiffen less.


GEESE.
159
and cover them entirely with farce; dip them in a
well beaten omelet, in which some crumbs of bread
and salt have been mixed; roll them in crumbs of
bread; a quarter of an hour before serving them, put
them into the friture* not very hot, that they may take ;
let them have a fine colour ; serve without sauce.
Pigeon Cutlets.--Côtelettes de Pigeons.
Take the fillets of six pigeons ; take off the thin
skin, and beat them very little; take the pinion bones,
clean them, and run them into each of the fillets,
giving it the form of a cutlet ; dip them into an anglaise,
that is, two yolks mixed with a little butter ; dip them
in crumbs, and put them upon the grill; give them a
good colour; when they are sufficiently done, dish
them en couronne; sauce them with beef juice or a
thick blond de veau ; add to the last a little large pep-
per, and the juice of a lemon or two.
These cutlets or fillets may be made an entrée of, ás
a timbale, a páté chaude, or en papilottes. (See these ar-
ticles. If for the last, the cutlets must be cut in two.)
To roast Pigeons.—Pigeons à la Broche.
Take five pigeons; prepare and truss them with
their legs en long, barb them with lard, if it is the
season, put a vine leaf between the pigeons and the
lard, by which they must be well covered; skewer, and
tie them to the spit; they should not be too much done.
Roasted Pigeons as Ortolans - Pigeons en Ortolans
pour Rót.
Take six pigeons, à la gautier ; prepare and truss
them as quails, not allowing much of the feet to be
seen; skewer them, and put them on the spit; have a
very clear fire, and do them very little.
GEESE. -Oies.
Wild Geese. -Oies Sauvage.
The passage of wild geese continues about two
* Friture, frying-pan. A cook ought to accustom himself as
much as possible to French terms, as many of them are more ap-
propriate than ours.


160
FRENCH COOKERY.
the
months, unless the winter is very moderate ; young
are good, resembling much the domestic, which are
of the same family, and are all served in the same
manner; they are difficult of digestion, but very use-
ful in domestic economy.
Green Goose roasted. -Oison à la Broche.
Take a fine, plump, fat, green goose, the fat of which
must be very white; if the upper part of the back
breaks easily, the fowl is young; cut off the pinions,
and prepare it; blanch the legs, and cut the nails; wipe
it well with a cloth ; truss it, leaving its legs en long,
that is to say, stretched out ; spit it, and take care that
it is not over-done, which will be known by touching
the fillet with a knife, the juice will flow.
Goose with Chesnuts. -Oie aux Marrons.
Prepare a goose exactly as in the foregoing article;
mince the liver; cut an onion in small pieces, and pass
it in raspt lard ; prepare fifty chesnuts as is directed,
(au Potage à la Purée de Marrons,) let them simmer in
the sauce ; season with salt, pepper, and fine spices;
when the chesnuts are ready, turn in the rump of the
goose, and sew it
up;
stuff it by the craw, and sew it
up; spit it, and let it have an hour and a quarter.
Another Way. Oie à la Chipolata.
Prepare a fine young fat goose, with the legs trussed
within ; cover it with slices of lard, and tie it
up; cover
a braisière with barbs, put over it some trimmings of
butcher's meat, two slices of bacon with the goose
giblets, a bunch of parsley, and green onions, three
turned carrots, two or three onions stuck with cloves,
a clove of garlic, thyme, bay, basil, and salt ; put in the
goose, moisten with a glass of Madeira, or if
any
other
white wine, more of it, and bouillon, as much as covers
the
goose ; let it boil ; put over buttered paper; cover
it, and put it on a paillasse, with fire under and over;
leave it an hour and half; when enough drain it; dish
and masque it with a Chipolata.
Legs and Wings of Geese da nCuisses et Ailes d'Oies à
Take the quantity of geese that is required and cut


GEESE.
161
off the wings and legs in such a manner as to take off
all the flesh with them; bone the legs partly with the
hand; mix half an ounce of saltpetre with fine salt for
five geese, and rub the legs and wings well with it;
put them into an earthen pan ; throw amongst them
bay, thyme, and basil; cover them closely with a cloth,
leave them twenty-four hours in the seasoning; when
they are taken out they are to be passed quickly
through fresh water, and left to drain; in the mean
time all the fat having been collected from the bodies
and intestines of the geese, and prepared as directed
for the sain-doux (Sain-dous, article Cochon): put in
the prepared geese, and let it be put upon a very
moderate fire, that the sain-doux or goose fat may
only shake, not boil : it is sufficiently done when the
flesh can be pierced with a straw; take them out, and
when they are cold pack them nicely into jars, pressing
them down: when the fat is three fourths cooled, pour
it into the jars; let it cool and remain uncovered for
twenty-four hours; then cover the pots, first with paper
and then with parchment; keep it in a dry fresh cellar
for use.
The translator has witnessed the above preparation
in Languedoc, where little else is used in the kitchen,
as the ragouts and soups are generally made of it.
It is almost surpassing belief, the high state to which
these animals are fed, by cramming with Indian corn
three times a day; and according to the situations of
families, from two to thirty geese are often so fed:
turkies and ducks are often mixed with them, and the
economy of that careful people is very conspicuous
in the preparation; they are not all killed at the same
time, but from day to day, as the business and the
wants of the family permit; preserving the blood,
which they make a pudding of in the skin of the neck;
cutting the goose up in the common manner of carving
into ten, twelve, or fourteen pieces: the whole carcase
is as fat as a pig, the thighs are like small pork hams;
these pieces are all salted as directed in the foregoing
receipt, and the fat, which is enormous in quantity, is


162
FRENCH COOKERY.
prepared as is also directed: the jars into which they
are put contain six or eight gallons, and upwards ·
and it will no doubt appear incredible to say, that four
or five of these are filled for the use of one family,
with the carcases and fat of these different fowls :
they were distributed in such a manner that two
should be opened at the same time, the best pieces in
one and the worst in another, so that there should
be no digging to expose a greater surface than is
necessary to the air ; thus a leg or a wing, with a spoon-
ful of the fat, made a ragoût, a neck and pinion, or
a back, with a spoonful of fat, made a soup; the relish of
these meats is extremely high, and with sweet herbs and
vegetables would be by some called beautiful, by others
good, but by the French delicious ; it would be dis-
ingenuous in a book of this kind, not to recommend
it highly, as there is so much waste of that sort of
fat; the side bones and aprons are very nice, drained
hot from it; the livers of the ducks fed in this way
are as large sometimes as those of lambs, and are of a
bright shining gold colour; they are generally baked
in high seasoned pies, and sent in presents, which
pay a tax on entering Paris.
When geese are scarce and dear, a pig is substituted,
and after having been cut in small pieces, is accom-
modated in the same manner. The introduction of
these articles into English cookery would be both
economical and healthy, as vegetables of all sorts
would be more eagerly sought after as food, if they
were made more palatable with little expense.
Ducks in general. Des Canards en général.
Ducks are of easier digestion than geese ; there are
different sorts of them; the domestic is larger than the
wild, and those of Barbary still larger, but less delicate,
and are often musky; the breed between the Barbary
and domestic are freed from the inconveniency of the
one, are larger than the other, and are the canetons de
Rouen, which are so much esteemed for their size
.


DUCKS.
163
and quality. The wild duck is generally roasted;
there are, however, entrées made of them, which are
as follows:
To roast Wild Ducks. —- Canards Sauvage à la
Broche.
Choose a fat duck or two; look that the webbs of
the feet are of a fine colour, and not dry; to know if
they are stale, open the beak and smell them; feel that
the belly and rump are firm, and the ducks heavy,
which are signs that they are fat and fresh ; the hen
is more delicate than the cock, though in general the
cock brings a higher price; prepare two of these
ducks, pick off the down, cut off the pinions close to
the body and the necks ; truss the feet up, which must
be blanched and pared; rub them with their liver ; spit
them; let them be underdone, and send them to table
with two uncut lemons.
Fillets of Wild Ducks with Orange Sauce. Filets
de Canards Sauvages à l'Orange.
Cut out the fillets of three ducks, give them a few
slight cuts on the skin side; marinade them in oil,
with young onions broken in two, branches of parsley,
salt, large pepper, and the juice of mushrooms;
leave them in the marinade for an hour; when ready
to serve, put two spoonfuls of oil into a sauté pan, put
on the fillets, set them over a good fire, turn them two
or three times, drain and dress them en couronne,
and serve under them a sauce d'orange.
Salmi of Wild Ducks. Salmi de Canards.
Take two cold roasted ducks, cut them in pieces,
pare them and pound the parings or débris ; rub them
through a tammy, and finish as directed (article Salmi
de Perdreaux).
Another Way. Salmi de Canards Sauvages au
Chasseur.
Cut the fillets off two cold roasted ducks in stripes,
take off the legs and separate the carcases into pieces,


164
FRENCH COOKERY.
add salt and large pepper, and sprinkle with four
spoonfuls of oil of olives, and half a glass of claret;
cut two bitter oranges, and squeeze the juice over;
shake all well together, and serve.
Ducks with Orange Sauce. Caneton de Rouen, Sauce
à l'Orange.
Take a good fat caneton ; be particular that it is
white; prepare it carefully without hurting the skin;
blanch the feet, cut the small points, and truss them
without; turn in the rump; cut the wings close to
the body, and take off the neck; mix in a stewpan
a sufficient quantity of butter, the juice of a lemon,
and salt; fill the duck with this butter; truss it up
into a good form; cover a stewpan with barbs of
lard; put in the duck or ducks, cover with slices of
lemon, over them barbs of lard ; season with a sliced
carrot, an onion stuck with a clove, a bunch of parsley
and young onions; consommé, and half a glass of white
wine; cover with a round of paper : three quarters of
an hour before serving, boil, cover, and put them
upon a paillasse with fire under and over ; when done,
drain, unlace, and dish ; serve under them, a sauce
à l'orange; instead of using the juice of beef, take a
little aspic or consommé reduced; if there are no
oranges, use lemons.
Ducks with Olive Sauce. Canetons, Sauce aux Olivese
Prepare as above, and masque with a ragoût d'olives
Duck and Pease. Caneton au petits Pois.
As the above, and masque with a ragout de petit.
pois.
Duck and Haricots.--Caneton en Haricots Vierges.
Prepare as above, and masque with en haricot vierge.
Duck and Turnips.—Caneton aur Navets.
Prepare as above, and masque with a ragoût de
navets.
Duck with Batter of Crawfish. Caneton, Sauce au
Beurre d'Ecrevisses.
As above, and
masque
sauce au beurre
d'écrevisses.
with a


DUCKS.
165
Duck with Green Sauce. Caneton, Sauce au vert
pré.
As above, masquing with the sauce au vert pré.
· Duck with Roots. -Caneton aux petites Racines.
As above, masque with sauce au petites racines.
Ducks with Cucumbers. -Canetons aux Concombres.
Proceed as above, and masque with a ragout aux
concombres.
Duck with Onions. Caneton aux petits oignons.
As above, masque with a ragoût aux petits oignons.
Ducks another Way: - Canetons au Macédoine.
As above, masque with a macédoine.
Ducks with Verjuice.-Canetons au Verjus.
Prepare as above; take some verjuice, if it is the
season; take off the stalks, blanch and drain them;
put three spoonfuls of reduced espagnole into a stew-
pan with the verjuice; reduce it; thicken with butter
and masque
the ducks.
Ducks with green Sauce.-
Canards à la Purée verte.
Prepare and masque with purée verte.
Ducks and Turnips. —Canards à la Bourgeoise. .
Prepare the ducks as above, trussing the feet
within, or en poule ; put butter in a stewpan, and
brown the ducks all over; drain them, and put into
the pan sufficient quantity of turned turnips ; brown
them nicely; drain, and make a little roux of the
butter ; moisten with bouillon, if there is none,
with water ; don't let the sauce get into knots ; add
salt, pepper, a bunch of parsley and young onions,
half a clove of garlic, and a bay-leaf; put in the
ducks and stew them; when half done, add the tur-
nips, and let them simmer; turn the ducks from time
to time without breaking the turnips; when done,
skim, dish and masque with the ragoût.
Roast Duck. Caneton de Rouen pour Rôt.
Take one or two and prepare them, trussing their


166
FRENCH COOKERY.
C
legs en long ; spit
' and wrap them in paper; give them
three quarters of an hour; serve them as wild ducks
with lemon,
Small River Wild Ducks. Oiseaux de Rivières et
Sarcelles.
These ducks may all be served in the manner di-
rected above for the domestic ones.
MAIGRE.
Clear Pease Soup.-Maigre Bouillon de Pois.
Take a quart or two of pease that are without
shoots, wash them, and if there is time let them steep
some hours; put them into a stewpan, with two car-
rots and two onions ; let them boil, as it is of no con-
sequence if they should fall into a purée ; take it off
and run it through a search; leave it to repose ; pour
it off clear, when it is fit for use.
Soup Maigre.-- Bouillon pour les Potages et les
Sauces.
Take twelve carrots, the same of turnips and onions,
and a bunch of leeks, two parsnips, four heads of
celery, and a cabbage cut in four, blanch the whole,
refresh them in cold water; tie the cabbage; put the
whole in a pot, and moisten with the bouillon of pease ;
add some parsley roots, a little mace, ginger, two
cloves, and a clove of garlic, wrapt in a cloth; let all
boil sufficiently; to give it a good colour, put into
a stewpan a bit of butter with two or three carrots,
the same quantity of turnips and onions cut in slices,
and a head of celery; brown these roots well, and
moisten with a little bouillon of pease, and let it fall
into a glaze; when near sticking, moisten it anew, to
detach it; pour it into the bouillon and let it simmer
five or six hours constantly; pass it through a cloth
and use it for potages and sauces.
Fish Soup.-Bouillon de Poisson,
Put some butter into a stewpan, and into it onions
cut in two; mince, but in less quantity, the vegetables
that are directed in the above receipt, and lay them


SOUPS.
167
over the onions ; take two carp, and prepare them;
cut open their heads, and take out the yellow 'stone
called the gall of the head, and which is found behind
the ears; cut the carps in pieces, and add any other
kind of fish; put them over the vegetables ; put in a
spoonful of bouillon maigre, let them sweat, and when
they fall into glaze, moisten them entirely; put in salt,
pepper, the trimmings of mushrooms, sweet herbs, a
clove of garlic, a little mace, bay and two cloves; this
bouillon answers instead of consommé and blond de
veau, for potages, grandes et petites sauces.
Juice Maigre.-Jus Maigre.
Cover the bottom of a stewpan with butter ; lay
over onions cut in two, and roots in slices; sweat
them over a moderate fire for three quarters of an
hour, then put them on a stronger fire, and let them
fall into glaze until they are of a deep colour; moisten
with the bouillon of potages ; detach it carefully; add
some stalks or trimmings of mushrooms, half a clove
of garlic, sweet herbs, a bay-leaf, two cloves and salt;
let it cook three quarters of an hour; pass it through
a cloth when it is ready for sauce.
Espagnole Maigre.
Butter a stewpan; cover it with onions cut in two,
turned carrots, a bay-leaf, one or two carp, or any
other fish, even sturgeon if there is any; sweat it over
a slow fire ; heighten the fire that it may fall into glaze ;
then moisten with half juice and half bouillon, as is
directed for potage; let it boil to detach the glaze ;
thicken with roux, as the espagnole grasse (see that
article ; add half a bottle of white wine, either Cham-
pagne or Burgundy ; a clove of garlic and mushrooms;
let
it simmer an hour on a slow fire ; skim and run it
through a cloth, and make the same uses of it as for
espagnole grasse for small sauces.
Bread Soup:
Potage au Pain.
Rasp a loaf, and after taking out the crumb pare
the crust nicely; put it into a stewpan with a ladleful
of bouillon à potage; let it simmer and put it into a


168
FRENCH COOKERY.
deep dish, and serve it under any vegetable or purée
maigre that is convenient; it would be useless to enter
into a detail of these purées, as there is no difference
in composing them, but by moistening them with
bouillon maigre or gras.
Maigre Queen's Soup.—Potage à la Reine en
Maigre.
Take two small pike that do not smell of the pond;
prepare them; lay them upon a table and skin them;
cut the flesh in large dice; put them into a stew-
pan with a bit of butter; cook without burning ; let
them cool ; pound twenty sweet almonds ; soak a roll in
cream, and dry it as is directed at the article Panade ;
pound this panade; take it out of the mortar and
pound the fish, then pound them altogether ; spread
some butter into a stewpan; put in onions cut in two,
and slices of roots, such as carrots, turnips, half a
clove of garlic, half a bay-leaf, a little mace, a bunch
of parsley, young onions, a clove, two carp cut in
pieces, and the refuse of the pike; moisten this with a
little bouillon de pois; let it sweat over a slow fire ;
when done pass it through a napkin, and use it to
moisten the farce that has been already prepared,
which must be rubbed through a tammy and have the
consistence of a coulis; set it in the bain-marie till
ready to serve; put into the stock-pot some bread cut
in dice, fry it in butter, and pour the purée over it.
Almond Soup. ---Potage au Lait d'Amandes.
Take a pound and half of sweet almonds and twelve
bitter ones; skin them as usual, by putting them in
water over the fire; pound them, putting in from time
to time a drop of water to prevent their oiling;
when they are quite smooth they are sufficiently done :
put into a stewpan six pints of water; when it boils
infuse half an ounce of coriander and half a lemon,
keeping out the skin and seeds; moisten the almonds
with this infusion; rub it several times through a
napkin or tammy till it takes the appearance of milk;
salt and sugar it properly; put it into the bain-marie;


SOUP
169
take very thin slices of bread, glaze them in the oven
and throw them into the almond soup when it is going
to table.
Another Method. -Autre Manière.
Take half a pound of sweet almonds and five or six
bitter ; pound as in the above article; take six pints of
milk; make it boil and use a part of it to pass the
almonds several times through a cloth, as in the fore-
going article; steep in the other part of the milk half a
roll of vanille, which must be taken out when they are
mixed together; season with sugar and salt, and add
about the size of half an egg of good butter ; put
it in the bain-marie till ready, serve with glazed
bread as above.
Another Method, quicker and more economical. - Autre
Manière plus prompte et plus économique.
Boil six pints of milk ; put into a stewpan eight
very fresh yolks, from which the whites and germs
must be carefully separated ; bruise with the rolling-
pin twenty-four masse-pains or macaroons, half sweet
and half bitter, and sugar the milk sufficiently ; add
a little salt and a table spoonful of orange flower
water; moisten these ingredients with a little hot milk,
but not boiling ; in such a manner that the macaroons,
eggs, and sugar may be well mixed ; reserve half of the
milk to mix with the potage; cut some slices of bread;
lay them upon a board; sift fine sugar over and glaze
them in the oven; put them in a deep dish or tureen ;
when ready to serve put in the milk that was re-
served, and stir it with a new wooden spoon ; finish the
thickening by putting it upon the fire; stir it with-
out allowing it to boil; taste that it is properly
seasoned; pour it over the glazed bread, and serve
immediately. If there are no macaroons make use of
pralinés, which answer nearly the same.
Maigre Soup. — Potage à la Julienne maigre.
Prepare the roots in the same manner as for the
potage à la Julienne grasse; when thus prepared, pass
them with a bit of butter in a stewpan till they brown


170
FRENCH COOKERY.
a little ; moisten with bouillon maigre as would be
done with the gras; if there is no bouillon maigre,
use the soup of haricots or lentils; let the potage
simmer, and salt it properly.
Herb maigre Soup.- Potage maigre aus Herbes.
Take a large handful of sorrel, two lettuces, a little
chervil and love-apples; wash them well in a great
quantity of water; drain and mince the herbs very
fine; put them in a pot with a bit of butter, and pass
them; leave them upon a slow fire, moisten them
sufficiently for the potage with grand bouillon maigre;
if there is none, with one of haricots or lentils ; taste
if properly salted.
Rice and Milk.—Potage au Ris et au Lait.
Take a quarter of a pound of rice; pick and wash it
several times ; blanch it with a boil or two; drain and
put it into a stawpan with two ounces of butter, a
little lemon zest, and a peach or almond leaf; swell
the rice with water ; when nearly done moisten with
good milk, and dont make it too thick, also avoiding
its being too thin ; put in sugar and salt in due pro-
portion; before serving, take out the leaf and lemon
zest.
Vermicelle and Milk. Vermicelle au Lait.
Take a quarter of a pound of vermicelle ; sift out the
dust ; boil six pints of milk; add the vermicelle by
little and little, that it may not ball; put it on the
edge of the stove until it is enough ; season with sugar
and salt ; there may be added macaroons and a little
vanille, or either.
FISH-Poisson,
Braise maigre for boiling Fish in.
Take a kettle of a sufficient size; put into it a bit
of butter with a little vegetable soup, a little thyme,
sweet basil, garlic, parsley, and scallions, cloves, some
slices of onions and carrots, salt, pepper, with white
wine sufficient ; tie the head of the fish up properly, or
any other part, and put it into the kettle with these in-


FISH.
171
gredients ; take care that it does not swim; put it upon a
slow fire; cover it with a buttered paper, taking care to
wet or baste it from time to time with its own sauce ;
taste if it is properly seasoned ; when the fish is suf-
ficiently done, take part of the sauce, run it through a
gauze search, reduce it to a jelly to glaze the fish.
Fish Jelly. -- Glace de Poison.
Rub lightly the bottom of a saucepan with butter;
cover it with sliced onions and carrots; then add the
remains and carcasses of fish, a little parsley and scal-
lions, a bay-leaf, thyme, sweet basil, and a clove of
garlic ; to these ingredients add a ladleful of fish soup;
let it boil, put it upon a hot hearth or table ; let it sim-
mer till it becomes a jelly ; again add to it some fish
soup, and pour it clear off into a clean saucepan, and
let it simmer another hour; run it through a napkin ;
reduce it to a jelly, and use it for glazing.
CARP.
Carp. De la Carpe en général.
Carp of lakes and ponds are never good. It is ne-
cessary to be able to distinguish this fish from the
bream, which is much larger and flatter, the head
smaller, the flesh less firm, and not so delicate.
Carpe à la Chambor.
Take a fine carp, scale it, and raise the skin, as is
indicated for making Quenelles de Carpe (see article
Farces); gut it without opening all the belly; take
out the ears without spoiling the tongue, the skin
being raised without touching the flesh; take out the
strings or nerves of the tail, and lard it entirely with
eel cut small, or half with truffles and carrots cut in the
same manner; if it is not for maigre, lard it with lard
truffles and carrots ; put it into a proper-sized fish
kettle with a little braise-maigre (or vegetable soup,
as indicated in the first recipe), and set it upon a
moderate fire; put into a saucepan three basting
spoonsful of espagnole-maigre, and half a bottle of
white champagne; reduce and skim off all the fat;
1 2


172
FRENCH COOKERY.
put into it small mushrooms, artichoke bottoms, or
truffles, the roes of carps, (Quenelles), eels cut in
pieces, as indicated in Matelote d' Anguille et de Carpe;
let it simmer a quarter of an hour, and finish it with
anchovy butter sauce; drain and dish ; dress round
the ingredients, to which add crawfish ; put the
sauce into the dish; glaze it and send it to table; if
not maigre, larded veal, sweetbreads, Pigeons à la
Gautier. Quails, if in season, or combs and kidneys of
cocks may be added.
Stuffed Carp. Carpe farcie.
Take a fine carp; take off the skin and flesh, as is di-
rected for Quenelles des Carpe, preserving the head and
the tail, with three inches of the bone of the carp to each;
take the flesh off the carp, and add to it the flesh of two
smaller ones to make forced meat, the same as for Que-
nelles des Carpe ; take a dish of the necessary length,
spread the forced meat in the bottom nearly an inch
thick ; ; put the head and tail into their places; make
a salpiçon maigre or fat, with which fill the belly, or a
ragoût of the roes of carp, all cold; cover the salpicon
or ragoût with forced meat, and give the whole the
appearance of a carp larger than that made use of;
incorporate well the head and tail into the forced
meat, and that the salpiçon does not appear; unite the
forced meat well with a knife dipped in egg; glaze it
with two eggs well beaten ; and with a table spoon
dipped in the egg, form the scales of the carp; wrap
up the head and tail in buttered paper ; an hour before
it is to be served, put it into a moderate oven ; let it
take a fine colour; take off the paper; wipe the
dish ; the sauce may be a good espagnole either grasse
or maigre, or a ragoût of the roes, or mushrooms and
artichokes ; pour the sauce into the dish, and serve.
Carpe au bleu, ou au Court-bouillon.
Gut a carp without opening much of the belly,
taking care not to break the gall, and without spoiling
the scales; take out the ears without touching the
tongue; put it into a fish kettle of a proper size; boil a


FISH.
173
little red vinegar; rub it boiling hot equally over it,
to give a blue colour; put to it a little braise grasse or
maigre; cover it with a buttered paper, and set it upon
a slow fire ; when enough, drain and send it to table
upon a napkin garnished with parsley.
Fried Carp.—Carpe frite.
Take off the scales and cut the fins, raise the
skin, open it by the back; divide the head; take
out the ears and the yellow stones that are found ir.
the head; put it into a little milk; flour and fry it;
when half done, flour the roes and put them in;
fry the carp firm and of a fine colour ; drain and serve
it upon a napkin garnished with the roes.
Grilled Carp.- Carpe grillée.
Scale and wash the carp; cut the fins and the point
of the tail ; take out the ears ; gut it without opening
the belly much ; taking care not to break the gall;
raise the skin; dip the roe into butter and fine herbs,
such as parsley and scallions ha ed, seasoned with
salt and pepper; put it into the beily of the carp, and
sew it up; put it upon a dish ; pour over it a little
oil, hashed herbs, and fine salt; grill it; draw out the
threads, and serve with a white sauce and capers, or a
Maître d'hôtel chaud. (See Maître-d'hótel liée, article
Sauces.)
Another Way. — Matelote de Carpes et d' Anguilles.
Take a male and female carp; scale, clean, and gut
them; dress the roe and melt separate; cut the fins
and the points of the rails; take the ears and the yel-
low stones from their heads; cut them in equal junks;
skin an eel; pass it over the fire to stiffen it; take
off the head and the end of the tail ; gut and cut it in
pieces; put it into a saucepan with sliced onions, carrots,
branches of parsley, some scallions, a clove of garlic,
two bay leaves, a little thyme, two cloves, a little fine
spicery, salt, pepper, and two bottles of white cham-
pagne ; let the eel be half done, then add the pickerel,
and when it is half done, put in the carp; let it boil
upon a strong fire ; cover the saucepan ; the carp takes
13


174
FRENCH COOKERY.
very little time ; brown about thirty small onions in
butter; have prepared turned mushrooms and arti-
choke bottoms (see article Garnishing); make a roux
of the butter in which the onions were fried, mix it
with the sauce of the fish, boil it sufficiently and put
it through a search into another saucepan, and add to
it the onions and mushrooms ; put all these ingredients
upon the fire and reduce ; skim off the fat, keeping
the fish hot; drain it well, and dish it with the heads
in the middle, and the fish intermingled; garnish with
bread cut in the shape of peacocks' tails fried in but-
ter ; lay over the roe and melt; put the artichoke
bottoms into the sauce; give them a boil ; taste if it is
properly salted ; pour it over the Matelote; crawfish
may be added, as it is often done ; a Matelote may be
made larger by taking the hollow crust of a small fine
loaf, and putting into it an omelet (au naturel), and
placing it in the middle.
Another Way.---Matelote à la Marinière.
Take carps, small pike, barbel, and cels ; prepare
them as in the foregoing article ; take care of the
blood; parboil thirty small onions of an equal size;
put a sufficient quantity of red wine into a proper
stewpan that the fish may swim in it; a bit of
butter, onions, a bunch of parsley, chives, a bay.
leaf, some cloves, salt, pepper, fine spicery and
sweet basil; put in the fish; make it boil quickly over
a flaming fire of wood; when done, thicken with a
little butter rubbed in flour and broken into little bits,
and a little anchovy butter ; shake with care (that
they may not break), that the sauce may be equally
thickened ; dish as in the foregoing article; boil the
sauce, and if too thin, reduce it; when ready, add the
blood of the fish, but don't boil it after; garnish with
fried bread and the roes or melts ; pour the sauce over
and serve.
Fricandeau de Carpes.
Clean and skin the carp; take off the flesh, only
leaving the middle bone; lard it with lard; cut it


FISH.
175
into granadins, and dress it in the same manner as
granadins de veau, if it is not for maigre; but if for
maigre, lard it with eel, and instead of lard for
laying in the bottom of the saucepan, use butter; put
in slices of onions and carrots, white wine, and soup
maigre of fish; then put in the fish; cover it with
buttered paper ; make it boil, and do it in the manner
of a fricandeau with fire under and over ; when ready,
drain, and draw out the thick ends of the sides of the
carp, in such manner that none remain; glaze and
serve them upon a sauce or purée of mushrooms,
sorrel, or onions.
If there is no glaze reduce the sauce and use it.
Fried Carp's Melts Laitances de Carpes frites.
Take fifteen or eighteen soft roes of carps; their
size will determine the quantity necessary; clean them
well and lay them in fresh water, which must be
changed several times; when perfectly clean and
white, put some water into a saucepan with a small
quantity of vinegar and a little salt ; put it on the fire,
and when it boils throw in the roes; give them a boil;
drain, and when ready to serve, dip them in a light
paste; fry them of a fine colour ; dish them nicely.
garnish with fried parsley and serve them.
Another Way.- Caisse de Laitances de Carpes.
The same as is used in Caisse de Laitance de Ha-
rengs.
Ragoût of Carp Roes-Ragoût de Laitance de Carpes.
(See article Ragoût.)
Roes in Jelly Aspic de Laitances de Carpes.
Prepare an aspic as it is directed for that of combs
of cocks, (art. Poultry), only using the roes, which
have been cooked in a proper seasoning instead of the
others.
To choose Lobsters and Craw Fish. — Écrevisses,
Homards, Crevettes et Chevrettes.
The manner to choose lobsters and crawfish, and all
the shell-fish of these kinds, is by their weight and
I 4


176
FRENCH COOKERY.
fresh smell ; likewise when they are taken by the head
and tail and distended, if they immediately return
into a curve, they are fresh.
The Manner of cooking Craw-fish for small and large
Dishes and Garnishing. -Ecrevisses, et Manière
de les faire cuire, soit pour gros, moyens, petits Enter-
mets ou Garnitures.
Take the quantity of crawfish you mean to cook;
put them into a saucepan and throw water upon them;
toss them up several times, and put them into a
cullender ; wipe the saucepan and return them into
it; add about half the quantity of white wine there is
of fish; put in some slices of carrots, onions, parsley,
scallions, one or two bay-leaves, sweet basil, cloves,
salt, pepper, and a good bit of nice butter; put
them on a good fire; cover them; toss, so that those
undermost may come up; cover them after every
tossing, and toss always when the seasoning boils
up; take them off the fire and leave them covered to
finish their cooking. If not for immediate use, leave
them covered in their seasoning, and when used warm
them in it; drain; serve them in a pyramid upon a
napkin garnished with parsley.
Another Way-Ecrevisses à la Poulette.
Boil the crawfish in a little salt and water; drain,
take off the small legs and the shell of the tail ; cut off
the ends of their noses and the points of their claws;
put into a stewpan a little strong veal-stock, hashed
parsley, and shallots; make it boil and throw them in;
thicken it with two yolks of eggs; add a few small
pieces of nice butter; toss it up and season with lemon-
juice; dish them nicely; sauce and serve.
Another Way. — Ecrevisses en Matelote.
Cook the crawfish in wine as directed in the first
recipe, and dress their shells in the same manner as
done for the poulette; put them in a sauce à la matelote;
dish nicely, sauce, garnish with bread fried in butter,
and serve.


FISH.
177
Lobster.--Homards.
Take a lobster and break the shells of the claws ;
cut it down the back from head to tail ; take out
with a spoon all the body; put it into a china dish
and add to it a table spoonful of made mustard, with
some parsley and shallots minced; after being washed
and pressed in a linen cloth, add salt, Jamaica pepper,
and the spawn, if there is any; also oil and vinegar
sufficient; mix it well together; taste if it is properly
seasoned, and send it to table in a sauce tureen.
Prawns.
-Crevettes.
Take a pound and half of prawns; cover the dish
with some herbage, or turn down a hollow dish so as
to raise a napkin in the form of an octagon upon it;
cover this with parsley, and dress the prawns upon it,
forming a pyramid ; they require no sauce.
Muscles. Moules au naturel ou à la Flamande.
Take a sufficient quantity of muscles, and rub one
after another till nothing remain on their shells ; put
them into a large pan with water, where they can be
well shaken about and washed, changing the water till
they are perfectly clean ; drain and put them with
minced parsley, covered on the fire ; toss them from
time to time; when they open take them from the
fire; take one shell off each, and of some both shells;
look carefully that there are no crabs in them; put
them into their own liquor with a little pepper and the
juice of a lemon; toss and serve.
Muscles another Way-Moules à la Poulette.
Prepare muscles as above ; take off all the shells and
be careful there are no crabs; preserve their liquor ;
put a bit of butter in a saucepan with a little flour ;
mix them with a wooden spoon; put in the liquor,
shake round the sauce and let it simmer; put in the
muscles, a little whole pepper, and minced parsley ;
thicken it with the yolks of eggs ; add the juice of a
lemon or a little verjuice, and serve.
1 5


178
FRENCH COOKERY.
Oysters.--Huîtres.
As fresh and pickled are both employed in the
kitchen, they ought to be chosen large, and good.
Oysters in Scollop Shells.--Huîtres en Coquilles.
Take as many dozen of large oysters as there are
shells, called pélerines; let them remain in their
liquor; if the beard and the nut are taken off, a double
quantity will be required; put into a saucepan a bit
of butter, mushrooms, parsley, and shallots, minced,
and a little whole pepper; put them on the fire and
brown them, dusting in a little flour ; put in the liquor
of the oysters and a little stock; cook all together till
they come to the consistence of sauce; take it from
the fire and put in the oysters ; toss; add the juice of
a lemon ; taste, and put them into the shells; strew
grated bread over, on which stick small bits of butter;
place the shells in a deep dish and put them into the
oven, or under a small oven with fire under and over,
till they are of a fine colour ; dish and serve.
If there are no pélerines use their own shells, which
will require to be well washed, and more of them, as
they will not contain so many.
Grilled Oysters.
Huîtres sur le Gril.
Shell two or three dozen of oysters ; put them into
a stewpan, and leave them to blanch in their juice;
then
pour
it off, and add a little bit of butter, pepper,
some minced parsley, and shallots ; toss them; do not
let them boil ; put them into their shells, and finish as
in the foregoing receipt; put them on the gridiron;
when they boil take them off and serve.
Ragoût of Oysters. — Ragoût d'Huîtres.
See the article Sauce aux Huîtres.
PIKE.
Brochet à la chambor, to be done in the same way
as Carpe à la chambor.
Pike. Brochet au Bleu.
See article Carpe au Bleu.


180
FRENCH COOKERY.
Pike Salad. Salade de Brochet.
See Salade de Poulet.
BARBILLON
Is of the same nature, but less esteemed than the
carp, and is cooked exactly in the same way.
EEL. Anguille à la Broche.
A fine eel has its belly silvery and its back slate-
coloured; kill it, and turn it upon hot cinders till the
skin is completely grilled ; wipe and scrape it; cut
off the fins and skin it; take off the head and the end
of the tail ; to gut it open the top of the throat and a
little at the naval ; then with the large end of a lar-
der push the entrails through the throat, so that no-
thing may remain in the stomach; wash it and turn it
round; fix it with small silver skewers, and tie it up:
put it into a stewpan and pour over it a good mirepois
(see Mirepois, article Sauce); let it be half done;
drain, fix it to the spit, and cover it; when done unco-
ver it ; let it dry, glaze and dish ; take out the skewers,
and serve under it an Italienne rousse or a ravigote.
Another Way. Anguille à la Sainte Menéhould.
Prepare an eеl as above ; put it in a tartpan, co-
vered entirely with a Sainte Menéhould ; take it out
of that sauce when nearly done ; strew crumbs over,
and
put it into an oven till it takes a fine colour"; un-
lace and put into the well a thick, white, Italian
sauce, or a white ravigote. (See article Sauce Italienne
blanche, Ravigote blanche.)
Another Way.
Anguille à la Poulette.
Take an eеl and order it as in the foregoing re-
ceipts ; cut it in equal junks, wash it and leave it to
blanch ; scrape and clean the blood well out ; put into
a stewpan a bit of butter, the eel, and some mush-
rooms ; set them for a moment upon the fire; dust
with flour ; add a little stock, gras or maigre, and half a
bottle of white wine, taking care to stir with a wooden
spoon till it boils; add a little parsley and shallots,
half a bay leaf, one clove, salt and pepper, twenty or
thirty small onions ; let it simmer and reduce; take off
the fat, and take out the bunch of herbs; thicken it


LAMPREY.
181
with two or three yolks of eggs, and the juice of a
lemon ; dish, sauce, and serve.
Another Way.
Anguille à la Tartare.
Having cleaned, skinned, and arranged an eel as
above, cut it in pieces of five or six inches ; take the
blood from the back; put it into a stewpan, with
slices of onions, carrots, parsley, two or three scal-
lions cut in two, white wine, salt, a bay leaf, one or
two cloves, and a little thyme; put it on the fire, and
when done enough drain; roll them in crumbs of
bread and steep them in an Anglaise (see Anglaise,
article Côtelettes de Pigeons); roll them again in
crumbs; grill of a fine colour ; dish with a sauce à la
Tartare, and serve.
Another Way: Matelote à l'Anguille.
See Mateiote de Carpe.
Lamprey. Lamproie.
Is another kind of eel, called also seven eyes,
having seven eyes or holes on each side, and is gene-
rally larger than the eel; choose them fat, and of a
paler colour,
Lamprey. --Lamproie en Matelote.
Put one or two into nearly boiling water; gut them,
and cut them into junks, taking care of the blood;
cut off the head, and the end of the tail; put them
into a stewpan with a little roux (see article Roux);
and put it over the fire; add some red wine, and
stock, or water, in equal quantities, some small
onions, mushrooms, a bunch of parsley, scallions ; salt,
pepper, a bay leaf, and a little fine spicery; cook it,
and take off the fat; when ready to serve, thicken
with the blood of the lampreys; taste it; dish, and
serve.
Another Way.-- Lamproie à la Tartare.
Is done in the same manner as the eel.
Perch. Perche au Beurre,
Must be chosen large and fat; gut and take out the
ears; tie
up
the head, and put it into a stewpan, with


182
FRENCH COOKERY.
slices of onions, carrots, a bay leaf, sprigs of pars-
ley, salt, and a little water ; cook, drain, and strain
the liquor into a saucepan; take off the skin and fins,
to stick over it for garnishing; when ready to serve,
drain, and pour over a butter sauce (sauce blanche au
beurre).
Perch with Green Sauce. Perche à la Pluche verte.
As the foregoing; and sauce it with a pluche
verte).
Perch another Way. Perche à la Hollandaise.
As above with a sauce Hollandaise).
Perch another Way. Perche en Matelote.
Cut it in pieces, and do it as Matelote of Carp.
Fried Perch. —Perches frites,
Scale and prepare a perch; take out the ears ; wash
it, and nick it across upon both sides ; let it lie
some time in a little salt, oil, sprigs of parsley, some
slices of onion, and the juice of a lemon ; drain, Aour,
and fry it till it is firm, and of a fine brown colour, and
serve.
Perch in Wine. Perches au Vin.
Having perch prepared ; put it into a stewpan, with
equal quantities of white wine and soup, a bay leaf, a
clove of garlic, a bunch of parsley and scallions, two
cloves and salt ; cook them; pass a little of the soup
through a search; mix a little flour and butter, and put
it into the sauce; put it upon the fire till thickened
and cooked ; add some pepper and nutmeg, with a
small quantity of anchovy butter : drain, dish, pour
the sauce over, and serve.
Perch another Way.
Perches à la Vass-fiche.
Gut three perch by the ears, and take out the
roes; wash them; bind their heads; put them into a
stewpan, with a little salt and water, parsley roots cut
in threads, a carrot cut in the same manner, a few
sprigs of parsley, and a bay leaf ; cook them; take
off the skin, that the fish may be very white; take.
out the fins, and stick them all over as garnishing ;


184
FRENCH COOKERY.
is esteemed for its delicacy :) it must be scraped, as it
does not bear skinning.
Salmon. - Saumon au Bleu, ou à court Bouillon.
It may be used whole or cut, according to the quan-
tity required, or the manner of serving it. (See the
article Carpe au bleu, ou au court Bouillon.)
Grilled Salmon. Darde de Saumon grillée.
Take a cut of salmon; put it into a dish, and pour
over it a little good oil, fine salt, a bay leaf, parsley,
and scallions cut in two; turn it, and let it soak for
some time; put it on the gridiron ; turn and baste from
time to time with the seasoning; lift with a knife a lit-
tle of the flesh, at the thickest part of the back; if
still red, let it continue cooking; turn it on a cover,
and take off the skin; pour over butter sauce, and
strew capers upon it.
Salmon with Italian Sauce. Saumon à l'Italienne
au gras ou au maigre.
Do it as above; giving it a sauce grasse or maigre à
l'Italienne, maître d'hôtel, or any other.
Salmon another Way. - Saumon à la Genevoise.
Take the head, or any piece of salmon; arrange and
tie it up; put it into a fish-kettle of a convenient size,
with sliced onions, carrots, parsley, scallions, a bay
leaf, one or two cloves, salt, and fine spicery; put to
it a sufficient quantity of claret, or any other red
wine; cook it in these ingredients; when done, take
a portion of the liquor, and run it through a gauze
search; add to it as much espagnole grasse or maigre;
reduce it to the consistence of sauce; add a little
anchovy butter, and a bit of good fresh butter; set it
again upon the fire to thicken; drain, dish, and
serve,
Another Way. Saumon à la Hollandaise.
Cook a piece of salmon in salt and water; when
done, drain; garnish it with potatoes boiled in water,
and serve it with sauce in a sauce-tureen, à la Hollan-
daise, or melted butter.


SALMON.
185
Another Way. — Saumon à la Béchamelle, en gras
ou en maigre.
Boil what salmon may be necessary in salt and wa-
ter; or if any remains from a former day, skin and
separate it into flakes ; draw out the small bones that
are along the back; put some béchamelle, maigre or
grasse, in a stewpan, and put in the salmon; heat the
whole without letting it boil; arrange it upon the dish;
unite it together with the blade of a knife; surround
it with bread cut into fornis, upon which has been
grated a little Parmasan cheese; melt some butter,
and with a small brush of feathers, baste it halfian
hour before serving; put it in the oven till it takes a
fine colour.
Another Way.—Sauté de Saumon, ou Escalopes, i
la Maître-d' Hótel, ou à l'Espagnole.
Skin a piece of raw salmon, and cut it into scol-
lops about the size of a crown-piece, and the thickness
of two; flatten and round them, having butter ready in
a frying-pan; put them in; taking care not to lay one
piece over another ; strew a little fine salt and pepper
over ; put into another stewpan, if for gras, three large
spoonfuls of velouté reduite ; if maigre, espagnole maigre,
with three or four ounces of butter; warm and thicken
it; toss the scollops, and turn them ; when enough
done, drain and pile them on a dish with a border ;
take a part of the butter in which they have been
cooked with the stock it has given, and add it to the
sauce with minced parsley*, nutmeg, and the juice of
a lemon; toss it again, dish, sauce, and serve.
Another Way.
Saumon au court Bouillon, pour
servir comme Plat de Rót.
Prepare salmon as for bleu, but do not use vinegar ;
when cooked, drain, and serve it upon a napkin, gar-
nished with parsley; serve with it a cruet of oil.
Salad of Salmon. Salade de Saumon.
Cook some salmon au court-bouillon; or if there are
Minced parsley is always understood to have been blanched.


186
FRENCH COOKERY.
any remains, cut it in equal pieces, so that it may
look nice; garnish it properly, and pour into the dish
the same seasoning as for poulets en salade, garnish
the borders with butter, if agreeable.
Smoked Salmon. Saumon fumé.
Take a smoked salmon, and cut it in pieces ; lay it in
a little oil upon a silver plate; toss, drain, and squeeze
a little lemon-juice over, and serve.
Salted Salmon. Saumon salé.
Steep the salmon sufficiently to take out the salt;
put it upon the fire in fresh water, and let it come
nearly to a boil; skim it and take it off the fire ; put
a cloth over, and leave it for five minutes in the water;
drain and serve it as a salad, or in any other way.
Trout.-Truite.
Trout resembles the salmon so much, (but more
delicate,) that it is cooked in the same way.
Shad. Alose.
Shad is a flat river fish, and is known by its beautiful
silvery scales ; it is but six weeks in season. There
are but few ways of cooking it.
Shad with Sorrel. Alose à l'Oseille.
Choose one fresh and fat ; gut it by the ears; scale
and clean it; put it to steep in oil, fine salt, a bay
leaf, parsley, and scallions cut in two; turn it, and let
it lie some time in this seasoning; according to its size,
give it three quarters or an hour upon the gridiron ;
haste it with the seasoning, and turn it that it may be
done on both sides; serve it upon a nice sorrel sauce.
(Purée d'Oseille.)
Shad grilled with Caper Sauce.--- Alose grillée Sauce
aux Capres.
To be done in the same manner as in the last recipe,
and served with butter sauce and capers; or boiled in
salt and water, and served with any sauce.


188
FRENCH COOKERY
they become white; finish them in the same manner
as if they were veal; if for gras, put thin slices of
lard ; if maigre, none at all.
Another Way.- Esturgeon en Fricandeau.
Take a piece of sturgeon and beat it lightly ; lard
it with small lard; cover the bottom of the stewpan
with slices of veal and ham, carrots and onions; finish
in the same way as (Grenadins de Veau).
Sturgeon. Esturgeon.
Where sturgeon is plenty, it is the best fish for
sauces, which
may
be made in the same manner as
stock from veal. Employ it for all maigre sauces.
Kavier. Kavia.
Kavia, the spawn of the sturgeon, is held in great
estimation, particularly by the Russians, who buy it
from the Tartars at a great price. To prepare it, take
the roes of several sturgeon, which ought to be full
grown, which a little white point will indicate; put
them in a pail of water; take away all the fibres, as
is done from the brains of a calf; whisk the spawn in
water, to separate the fibres from the grains, which
must be taken off the whisk; put them into a search,
and change the water ; return the spawn, and continue
to whisk it, taking out the fibres, and changing the
water till there are no more, and the water remains
pure; run the water from them through a search, and
mix and season them well with fine salt and pepper ;
tie them up in a bit of canvass in the form of a ball,
and let them drip; next day, they may be used with
toast and butter, with chopped onions or shalots
strewed over them, all raw: if to be preserved for
future use, they must be more salted.
Cod.-Cabillaud ou Morue fraîche à la Hollandaise.
The best cod are those which have yellow spots
upon a very white skin; cook it in a pretty strong
salt water; it should not boil; five minutes before
serving it, take it out, and leave it to drain upon its
drainer ; slip it from that upon a dish, and send


COD.
189
melted butter to table with it, oyster sauce, white
sauce with capers, or (sauce à la bonne morue).
Another Way. — Cabillaud en Dauphin.
Done in the same way as Brochet en dauphin.
Another Way.-
Cabillaud à la Saint Menéhould.
When it is properly prepared, stuff it with forced
meat of fish or fowl; put it upon the dish it is to go to
table in, which ought to be deep; wet it with a braise
grasse or maigre ; put it into the oven; when done,
pour off the braise, and put over it a (Menéhould
sauce); strew it over with crumbs of bread and grated
Parmesan ; baste it with melted butter; let take
again a fine colour; drain ; wipe the edges, and finish
it with a sauce Italienne blanche.
Another Way.—Cabillaud au gratin et à la Béchamelle.
If there are any remains from a former day, take off
the skin and small bones; dress, and put it into a
bechamelle; make it hot in the sauce, without allow-
ing it to boil; dish; spread it equally with the blade
of a knife; strew crumbs of bread, and, if approved, a
little grated Parmesan ; baste it with melted butter;
garnish entirely with bread, cut in the form of corks;
put it in the oven to colour ; take away the bread, and
replace it in the same manner with others fried in but-
ter, and serve.
Salted Cod another Way. — Morue à la Maître-d'Hôtel.
If the fish is too salt, put it for some time into milk
and water, which draws the salt quickly out; throw it
then into hot water; scrape off the scales; put it into
fresh water in a saucepan; when it boils, skim it;
cover it for an instant; drain and dish it with a maître
d'hôtel ; a little lemon or verjuice may be added; it
may
be skinned and drawn in flakes, and tossed in
a maître d'hôtel ; with the juice of a lemon, or a little
verjuice.
Another Way.
Morue à la Provençale.
Prepare and cook the fish as in the last article;
drain, take off the skin, and divide it into flakes;


190
FRENCH COOKERY.
put some oil into a stewpan with it, and two cloves of
garlic, bruised with a knife; turn it well round (à
force de bras) with all your force; making the fish
swim till it incorporates with the oil; add the juice of
a lemon and large pepper ; dish in any form, and serve.
Another Way: -
Morue au Beurre noir.
Prepare the fish as for maître-d'hotel; drain it, and
make a beurre noir ; add vinegar, but no salt; dish,
sauce, and serve.
Cod in Cream. Morue à la Crême, ou bonne
Morue.
Prepare the fish as above; drain, dish, and sauce it
with sauce (bonne morue).
Salt Cod. Morue au Gratin.
See Cabillaud au Gratin.
Morue à la Hollandaise.
See Cabillaud à la Hollandaise.
Cod.--Morue à la Bourguignote.
Take five or six large onions ; slice; fry and
brown them; brown a little butter; draw off the clear,
and add it to the onions, with salt, pepper, and
vinegar; the fish being cooked as directed at the art.
Morue à la Maître d'Hôtel; drain, dish, sauce, and
serve.
TURBOT.
A Turbot for first or second Course. Turbot entier
pour premier ou second Service.
Choose a fine fat turbot; let it be as sound and fresh
as possible; gut, wash, and be particular in cleaning the
inside ; open it to the middle of the back, nearer the head
than the tail, from three to four inches, more or less,
according to its size; raise up the flesh on both sides ;
cut the fins the length of the opening; arrange the
head with a packing needle, passing the thread be-
tween the edge and the bone of the first fin; rub it
with lemon ; put it upon a drainer into a turbot
kettle of a proper size; put in two pints of salt water


192
FRENCH COOKERY.
Another Way.-
-Turbotin, sauce Tomate.
Arrange one as above, and cook it as turbot ; drain
dish on a napkin, and serve with a sauce tomate in
a sauce-boat, or pour the sauce over it.
Dab. -Barbue.
The dab is a fish that resembles the turbot, only
it is longer and is covered with little scales ; the flesh
is whiter than the turbot and more delicate; it is
cooked in general as the turbot ; they fry, and cook it
also (au court-bouillon).
Flotte ou Flotton.
This is also of the turbot species, and is still longer
in its form, with a much smaller head and thicker
body; when it is cut, it resembles the turbot so much,
that it is often sold for it; the flesh is softer; it is eaten
with onions, (et au beurre noir et à la bourguignote).
%
SOLE.
The most delicate are those which have their
backs of a gilded yellow colour, their breasts very
white, with a blush of rose; the smallest are the most
delicate.
Soles
pour
Rốt.
Take what soles are necessary; gut and skin them;
cut them down the back; draw the blade of the knife
along the fins to separate the flesh: when ready to
serve dip them in milk; shake a little flour over, and
fry them over a good fire; when done and of a
fiñe colour drain them upon a clean cloth ; dish upon a
napkin ; send whole lemons to table with them.
Soles à la Flamande.
Cook them in a small fish kettle with salt and water
drain ; dish upon a napkin, and serve with melted but-
ter, (maître-d'hôtel), or an oyster sauce (aux huîtres).
Soles sur le Plat ou au Four.
Having arranged the soles as directed before, cut
open their backs, and lift
up
the flesh
upon
both sides
stuff the back with fine herbs minced; fry them in
{


SOLES.
193
butter and let them cool; put a little butter in a dish
and lay in the fish upon their backs; baste with
melted butter ; strew over salt, fine spices, and crumbs
of bread; add an equal quantity of stock and white
wine: put them into the oven, and when of a fine co-
lour serve them.
Filets de Soles à la Horly.
After cleaning the soles cut them entirely open
by the back from head to tail ; cut each into four
nice fillets, and steep them in lemon juice, salt,
parsley, and sliced onions ; shake them in this sea-
soning, where they ought to remain nearly an hour;
when ready to serve, drain, flour, and fry them ; they
must be firm and of a good colour ; dish, and serve
under them an Italienne or tomate sauce.
Sauté de Filets de Soles à la Maître-d'Hôtel.
Take of the fillets as above; the skin having been
previously taken off, have some melted butter in a
saucepan, into which put the fillets ; shake a little
fine salt over them; when done upon one side, turn
them; drain, dish, and sauce, with a good maître
d'hôtel, to which some veloutée reduite has been
added and heightened with a little lemon sauce, and
serve.
Soles au Gratin.
Cut the fillets as above ; spread upon these fillets
cooked forced meat, gras ou maigre, about the thick-
ness of a crown piece; roll it equally on, all over ;
cover the bottom of a dish with forced meat about half
an inch thick; form a crown of the fillets upon the
dish, so that there will be a well in the middle; put a
little of the forced meat into the intervals within
and without, that the fillets may form one mass ;
unite the whole with the blade of a knife dipt in hot
water; strew crumbs of bread over ; baste it with
butter, and send it to the oven ; when done, put into
the hollow or well a provençale, or an Italienne.
K


194
FRENCH COOKERY.
Filets de Soles à l'Italienne.
Take fried or cold soles ; take off the fillets nicely;
put a little stock into a saucepan, and put them in ;
heat them upon hot cinders, taking care they do
not boil; when ready to serve, drain them upon a
cloth; dish one over the other like scales; and
sauce them with an Italienne.
Filets de Soles en Mayonnaise.
Follow the same procedure as in the foregoing
article, cutting the fillets two inches long, dishing
in the form of a crown, and pouring over them a
mayonnaise.
Filets de Soles en Salade.
Prepare the filets as above, and finish in the same
manner as indicated for salade de volaille.
Plaice, Flounder, and Bret. — Limande, Carrelet, et
Flaye.
These are sea-fish; flat like the soles ; the bret-
fish, which is the most delicate of the three, re-
sembles the sole ; the head is more pointed and not
so long ; the founder more delicate than the plaice,
has small red spots upon the scales, which distinguish
this fish from the bret-fish; the red spots of the
plaice, the skin of which is darker and more slaty, are
much smaller than those of the flounder ; these fish
are to be large of their kinds, with the flesh white
and firm; they are all cooked as the soles.
Fried Whitings. Merlans frits.
Scale, fin, gut, and wash the whitings ; put the livers
back into their stomachs; nick them on both sides ;
flour, and fry them till they are firm and of a fine
colour ; drain, strew a little salt over, and serve them
upon a napkin.
Whiting may be done as soles à la Hollandaise, or à
la Flamande, or sur le plat.
Grilled Whitings. —Merlans grillés.
Having prepared whitings as above, nick them
across, and lay them on the gridiron; do them on a
slow fire; when ready to turn, lay softly over them


WHITING.
195
the cover of a stewpan, and turn them over; and if
any stick, disengage them with the back of a knife;
then slide them again gently upon the gridiron, using
the same precaution to take them up; masque with
white sauce and capers.
Another Way. Merlans aux fines Herbes.
Prepare the whiting as for frying; put butter,
parsley, and scallions finely hashed, salt and nutmeg,
into a deep dish, and lay them in ; baste with melted
butter, and put some stock and white wine to
them; turn them when half done; when they are
cooked, put their seasoning into a stewpan, with-
out taking them out of the dish; add a little butter
rubbed in flour; cook, and thicken it; add lemon-
juice, and a little pepper; sauce, and serve.
Another Way. — Filets de Merlans à la Horly.
Take six or eight small whiting; prepare them;
take off the fillets nicely; steep them in lemon-juice,
a little salt, sprigs of parsley, and slices of onion;
when they are to be served, drain, and flour them, by
putting them into a cloth with a little flour, take
them out and fry them; drain, dish, and sauce with
an Italienne or a tomate, and serve.
Another Way.
Hatelettes de Filets de Merlans.
Take off the fillets of twelve whitings, as indicated
above; melt some butter; put into it the yolk of an
egg, and some salt ; mix it well, and dip the fillets
into it; roll them up, and skewer them; put five or
six fillets on each skewer; heat again slightly the but-
ter in which the fillets had been already passed ;
dip them into it; strew the table with crumbs, roll
them lightly in them; put them carefully upon the
gridiron; and three
quarters of an hour before
serving them, put them over red cinders; renew the
cinders often ; turn them on all sides ; put over them
a gravy gras or maigre well seasoned, adding the
juice of a large lemon, and serve,
K 2


196
FRENCH COOKERY.
Filets de Merlans en Turban.
Take fifteen or eighteen whitings ; cut the fillets
from five or six of the largest, and prepare the remainder
for forced meat (à la quenelles des merlans ;) this done,
make a large cork of bread, set it on the smallest
end in the middle of a dish ; put round it very thin
slices of lard, and also forced meat, as it were, in
steps to form the turban ; surround it with fillets in
form of muslin bands to make a turban; if it is the
season, garnish it with white truffles, cut in the form
of large pearls, or any thing that may be turned to
have that appearance ; baste with melted butter,
cover with thin slices of lard, and over them, buttered
paper; cook it in the oven with a light braise under
it; when enough done, take out the cork and all the
lard; drain it; put into the hollow or well a good
Italienne, and serve; or ragoût may be used.
Filet de Merlan au Gratin.
Having the fillets ready, spread them upou a table;
cover them entirely with a cooked forced meat; if for
maigre, one of whitings, and roll it equally ; spread
upon the bottom of a dish, rather more than half an
mch thick of farce ; lay the fillets upon it in the form
of a crown; cover and fill it up entirely with farce,
and unite it together with the blade of a knife dipt in
hot water, giving it a regular form; strew grated
crumbs of bread over it, and baste it with butter;
put it into the oven till it takes a fine colour ; sauce it
with an Italienne rousse, or an Espagnole reduite; and
serve,
Smelts. —Eperlans.
Smelt is a small fish much esteemed; but only a
short time in season during the spring; has a beau-
tiful green, silvery, shining colour; and a strong odour
of violets, or cucumbers.
To fry Smelts. —Eperlans frits.
Scale, gut, and wipe a sufficient quantity; if very
small, pass a skewer through the eyes; dip them in
milk, and flour them; fry, and serve upon a napkin.


GRONDINS.
197
Smelts. - Eperlans à l'Anglaise.
Put two spoonsful of oil into a stew-pan; salt
, and
pepper; the half of a lemon cut in pieces; having
taken off the skin, and seeds, with two glasses of white
wine; let this seasoning boil a quarter of an hour;
put in the smelts ; let them cook, drain, and pour over
them the following sauce: put a small clove of gar-
lic into boiling water to blanch; bruise it with the
blade of a knife, and put it into a stewpan with pars-
ley and small onions hashed, and two glasses of Cham-
pagne; let it boil five minutes; put in a pat of butter,
rubbed in four ; and another pat without flour, salt,
and pepper; thicken the sauce, and add the juice of a
lemon.
Grondin.
Grondin, a sea-fish, has a red skin, very white
flesh, and is much esteemed ; it is served in different
forms, and with various sauces.
Grondins à la Maître-d'Hôtel.
Take four or five grondins ; gut, clean, and tie up
their heads; cook them in salt and water seasoned, on
a slow fire, that they may not crack; when enough,
drain, dish, and serve them with a high seasoned
maître d'hôtel ; they may be served with any other
sauce,
either
gras or maigre.
Grondins in Paper.
Grondins en Cornets et aux
fines Herbes.
Take seven or eight grondins ; gut, wash, drain,
and roll them in fine herbs, as the cutlets in paper,
only give them a little more butter ; put them to sim-
mer in this seasoning; when they are a little more
than half done, let them nearly cool; make as many
cornets, or turned bags of strong white paper, as there
are fish; put them into the bags, tail foremost ; fill
them with fine herbs; shut them up as close as possi-
ble; put them on the gridiron, and finish over a slow
fire ; let the paper be of a fine colour, and serve.
K 3


198
FRENCH COOKERY.
Another Way. — Grondins à la pluche verte.
Put the quantity to be cooked into a stewpan, and
pour over them, if gras, a mirepois ; if maigre, a court
bouillon ; when done, drain and serve with a pluche
verte.
Bearded Roach. Rouget barbet.
Steep them in oil; grill, and serve with plain but-
ter or caper sauce.
St. Peter. - St. Pierre, ou Poule de Mer.
This fish, which is very flat and delicate, is dressed
in the same manner as the roach.
Ling. —Eglefin.
This fish resembles the cod; its scales are finer,
and of a light slate colour; it is cooked generally
in the same manner as cod, and is much esteemed.
Barbel.
This fish also resembles the églefin; it is still red-
der in the body than the last, and has larger scales;
there are some of them very large, and serve for
grosses pieces, or in dardes (pour entrées); it is
cooked au court bouillon when it is large ; and may
be served with almost any sauce. Mons. Beauvilliers
thinks those that are acidulated the best. The small
ones answer well grilled with white caper sauce.
Grey and Red Mullet. — Mulet et Sur-mulet.
These fish differ little ; they are not so large as
the barbel, their bodies and heads are round ; they
are very delicate, and are generally cooked in salt
and water, or grilled. According to Monsieur B.,
the best manner, after the sauce blanche au beurre, is
to put them into a raw ravigote.
Sea Dragon, — Vive,
Is a round long fish, with yellow spots beautifully
rayed; it has at each ear and upon the back dan-
gerous prickles, and great care is necessary to avoid
them; if wounded, allow it to bleed a long time, and
rub it with the bruised liver of the fish, or bruise an


MACKEREL.
199
onion with salt, and wet it with spirits of wine, which
must be applied to the wound till it is cured.
Sea-Dragon with Caper-Sauce. — Vives, Sauce aux
Câpres.
Cut off the prickles from four or five, gut, wash,
and slash them on both sides; put them to steep in
oil, parsley, and salt; a quarter of an hour before
serving, grill, and baste them with the seasoning; dish
and serve them with a sauce blanche au beurre, to
which capres may be added.
Prepare the vives as above, and serve them with a
maître-d'hôtel.
Vives à l'Italienne.
Having prepared five or six sea-dragons, take off
the heads and tails ; put them into a stewpan with
half a bottle of white wine, some slices of onions and
carrots, sprigs of parsley, half a bay leaf, and salt;
cook, drain, dish ; sauce with an Italienne, and serve.
Vive à l'Allemande.
Prepare five or six as above; lard them with an-
chovies and eels; put them into a saucepan with a bit
of butter, half a bottle of white wine, a little sweet
basil, half a bay leaf, a clove, some sprigs of parsley,
slices of onions and carrots; cook them, and pass the
greater part of their seasoning through a search into
a saucepan; add a pat of butter rubbed in flour ; put
it on the fire and reduce it to sauce; at the moment
of serving, add the juice of a lemon; drain, dish,
sauce, and serve.
Mackerel. - Maquereaux à la Maître-d'Hôtel.
Take three or four mackerel; see that they are
very fresh and of an equal size*, that they may cook
equally; gut them by one of the ears, and take out
with a knife the puddings at the navel ; wipe them ;
open the back and head; cut off the nose and tail ;
powder them with a little salt; marinade them with
oil, parsley, and small onions cut in two; turn them in
* This remark ought to be attended to in cooking of every thing.
K 4


200
FRENCH COOKERY.
this seasoning: if large they will take three quarters
of an hour on the gridiron; if small, half an hour
will suffice; take care their belly does not open, that
they may not lose their juice; cook them upon red
cinders; after they have been done sufficiently on both
sides, put them on their back that they may be
thoroughly done ; dish, and with a wooden spoon put
a little cold maître d'hôtel into their backs, with the
juice of lemon, or sauce with it thickened, and serve.
Mackerel in the English Way.—Maquereaux à
l'Anglaise.
Take three or four fresh mackerel; gut them by
the ears, draw out the stomach, tie up the head, and
cut the ends of the tails ; put a large handful of fennel,
and salt and water with the fish into a kettle; set
them on a slow fire; drain, dish, and serve with a
fennel or gooseberry sauce.
Another Way. — Maquereaux à la Flamande.
Prepare mackerel as in the last recipe; mix a bit
of butter with shalots, parsley, small minced onions,
salt, and the juice of a lemon; and stuff them: roll
each in a buttered sheet of strong white paper; tie
them up tightly at the ends, and oil them; cook them
upon a slow equal fire for three quarters of an hour ;
when ready, take them out of the paper ; dish ; drip
the oil out upon the fish, and serve.
Mackerel.—Maquereaux à l'Italienne.
Cook the mackerel as indicated for sea-dragons à
l'Italienne, and sauce with an Italienne mixed with a
bit of butter.
Mackerel. — Filets de Maquereaux à la Maître.
d'Hôtel.
Take off the fillets of three mackerels, cut them in
two, melt some butter in a frying pan, put them in,
the skin side downward; strew a little salt, and baste
them lightly with butter; cover them with paper,
and
put them in a cool place, till ready to serve. Prepare
the following sauce : put two spoonfuls of velouté re-


MACKEREL.
201
duced in a saucepan; minced parsley and shalots ;
boil the sauce; put in a large bit of excellent butter,
and the juice of a large lemon ; clean the roes, and
cook them in salt and water; when ready to serve,
put the fillets upon the fire ; make them froth, and
turn them; when done enough, drain ; dish them en
couronne, and garnish with bread fried in butter or
oil ; sauce, and serve.
Maquereaux au Beurre noir.
Prepare as the foregoing, and sauce with a beurre
noir, adding salt, vinegar, and fried parsley.
Skate. Raie.
There are several sorts of this fish, the Ray bouclée
is the best and most esteemed of all; the gentle ray,
which is without prickles, and the grand ray, called
tyr, and the long ray; there are also raytons, all of
which will be spoken of in their order.
Skate, with Caper Sauce. Raie Bouclée, Sauce aux
Câpres.
Take a middling sized one ; cut off the wings as
near to the back as possible; put them into a bucket
of fresh water; wash and rub them with a brush, to
take away the slime ; avoid the prickles, which are
dangerous; drain and put it into a large kettle with
a handful of salt, slices of onions, sprigs of parsley,
two bay leaves, a clove of garlic, a sprig of sweet
basil, and a little white wine vinegar; put it on the fire,
make it boil, take it off, put in the liver, cover the
kettle with a cloth, leave it ten minutes ; take out the
liver and
put
it into a small saucepan, with part of
the seasoning; take out a wing, put it upon the cover
of the saucepan, take off the skin and prickles, and
all the black Aesh, and put it into a saucepan; do the
other wing in the same manner; run a part of the
seasoning through a search over the fish; about half
an hour before serving, warm the skate without letting
it boil; drain it upon a clean cloth; dish it with the
liver; garnish ; sauce with a sauce blanche au beurre;
strew over it capers or cucumbers cut in squares.
K 5


202
FRENCH COOKERY.
Skate. Raie à l'Espagnole.
Prepare, clean, and cook the skate ; dish and garnish
as the foregoing ; put into a stewpan three or four
spoonfuls d'Espagnole ; boil it, and at the moment of
serving, add two or three ounces of good butter;
shake it well; if too thick, add a little stock; strew
capers or cucumbers cut round or square, and serve.
Skate with Black Butter-Sauce. Raie Sauce au
Beurre noir.
Prepare and cook the skate; cut the wings in square
pieces rather long, dish them in a crown; sauce
them with a beurre noir, seasoned with salt and
vinegar; garnish with fried parsley, and serve.
To fry Skate. — Raie frite ou en Marinade.
Prepare, cook, and dress, as for sauce aux câpres,
but cut them like those for beurre noir ; steep them
in salt and vinegar; when ready to serve, drain, and
dip them into a light butter; fry them of a fine
colour; drain, dish, and serve under them a sauce
poivrade. If there is any skate remaining from a for-
mer day, do it in this way, or what is not so fresh.
To fry Raw Skate.
Raie frite à cru.
Take several small wings, skin both sides, marinade
them in salt, vinegar, onions, and branches of parsley;
when ready to serve, drain, flour, and fry them of a
fine colour; drain, and serve with any sauce.
Herring.—Hareng.
The herring is a fish generally esteemed, which are
used fresh, salted, and smoked; the first when fresh
have the ears red, the scales brilliant, milky, and fat,
very thick in the back; there is also a distinct sort
called the pilchard, which is more delicate.
Fresh Herrings with Mustard Sauce. Harengs
Sauce à la Moutarde.
Take twelve or fifteen herrings, gut them by the
gills, scale and wipe them with a cloth; lay them on a


HERRINGS.
203
china or earthen dish; strew over them some salt, oil,
and parsley, and turn them in this seasoning; a quar-
ter of an hour before serving put them to grill; dress
them upon a dish, and sauce them with a sauce,
(blanche au beurre,) mixed with a spoonful of mustard ;
do not let it boil, or serve them with a sauce grasse ; or
if cold, sauce them with a sauce à l'huile, or any one
convenient.
Herring Roes in a Case. Caisse de Laitances de
Harengs.
Take thirty fine fat herrings, take out the roes ;
clean and drain them; put a bit of butter into a
saucepan with mushrooms, parsley, shalots, small on-
ions hashed very fine, salt, pepper, and fine spices ;
pass the fine herbs lightly over the fire, taking care
they do not brown; put in the roes ; make them sim-
mer a moment in this seasoning ; having made a round
or square case, spread in it a gratin gras or maigre,
about half an inch thick ; oil the outside of the case,
put it on the gridiron over hot cinders to cook the
gra-
tin, before serving put the roes into the case, and put
it into a slow oven : when done enough take off the fat,
arrange
it on a dish, and sauce with an Espagnole re-
duced ; squeeze the juice of a lemon into it, and serve.
Pickled Herring
Harengs Pecs.
They are generally used in hors d'oeuvres at good
tables; during Lent they are grilled and served on a
purée de pois, a sauce blanche, or any other.
Red Herring. - Harengs Saurets.
Take five or six, wash them and take off their heads,
and the ends of their tails ; divide them from head to
tail; open them; put them on a china or an earthen
dish; baste them with oil; when ready to serve, turn
them a moment on the gridiron, and send them im-
mediately to table.
Pickled Herring another Way. —Harengs Pecs.
Take five or six salt herrings; wash, take off their
heads and the tips of their tails ; skin and cut off their
K 6


204
FRENCH COOKERY.
fins; put them to steep in milk and water ; drain, grill,
and dish with slices of onions, and apples of the ren-
net kind; serve oil with them.
FORCED MEATS.
Farce en Général. - Godiveau.
Take a noix" of veal ; skin and nerve it well ;
mince it fine; beat it in the mortar till it be-
comes a paste; mince a double quantity of beef
suet, which must be dry and grainy, for if it is greasy
the godiveau will neither look well nor be good; pick
off all the skin, and beat the whole together in a mor-
tar till they are perfectly mixed ; put in salt, pepper,
and fine spicery ; mix and beat all well together; take
an entire egg, which must be perfectly fresh, and mix 1
it well in ; then another, which must be also perfectly
incorporated; after this a third, which will be suffi-
cient for two pounds of godiveau ; put in a spoonful
of water ; continue to add another every time, the
water is incorporated: let this operation have time
that it may not be drowned ; when sufficiently wetted
as for a paste, strew a table with four, and make a 1
little ball for trial, and throw it into boiling soup;
when done enough, it will yield under the finger ; cut
and taste if it be light and good ; if not firm enough,
add another egg to give it more consistence; if too
firm, a little water ; dust the table with flour, and roll
the godiveau into any convenient size; poach, drain,
and keep it in readiness for such ragoûts as require it.
Chairs à petits Pâtes et Pâte à la Ciboulette.
Take the quarter of a pound of a fillet of veal, and
as much beef, and a pound of beef-kidney fat; mince
the veal and beef together as small as possible ; hash
the suet; mix all well together, and continue hashing
it with a hashing knife, seasoning with salt, pep-
per, and fine spiceries : put in two eggs, one after
the other, and continue to beat them ; when com-
pletely mixed add a little water, and continue to do
* A noir is the large fine muscle found in the fillet, which can
be taken out whole.


GRATIN.
205
so by little and little, till it is brought to a proper con-
sistence of forced meat; finish by adding parsley and
scallions minced very fine ; put it into a proper pot, so
that it may be in readiness for petits pâtés or pâtés à la
ciboulette.
GRATIN.
Take half a pound of fillet of veal, cut it in small
dice; put it into a stewpan with a bit of butter, a little
fine herbs minced, such as mushrooms, parsley, scal-
lions, with salt, fine spicery and pepper; put it
upon the fire, and stir it with a wooden spoon; let
it cook a quarter of an hour, drain off the butter,
mince it fine, and put it into the mortar; take fifteen
livers of fowls or game, wash and parboil them; throw
them into cold water ; drain and put them into the
mortar with the other ingredients ; beat them all well
together ; add as much panade as meat; have ready
cooked and cold some veal's udder; be careful to take.
off the skin, and put in as much of the udder as of
each of the other ingredients, so that each may be a
third; if there is no tetines, that is, veal's udder, butter
may be used ; season with salt, and put in three eggs,
one after the other in beating, and also three yolks ;
when all is sufficiently beaten, take it out of the mortar
with a wooden spoon; make a trial by poaching ; if
not firm enough, add some yolks of eggs; when come
to perfection, whip the whites of three eggs very well,
and mix it in by degrees, breaking them as little as
possible; truffles may be added well minced : put it
by for use.
N.B. This gratin may be made entirely of raw
livers, either of poultry or game, without using any
other sort of flesh meat, keeping in view always the
proportion of thirds, that is to say, one third of pa-
nada, one of liver, and one of butter.
Panada. Panade.
Take a sufficient quantity of crumb of bread, cut
it in small pieces, and put it into a stewpan with
reduced cream; let it soak, and when it has absorbed
the cream, put it on the fire, and cook in such a man-
!


206
FRENCH COOKERY.
ner that it will have the consistence of a firm paste,
(or it may be made of stock); incorporate into it two
yolks of eggs.
Bread Crumbs. Mie de Pain.
Take some crumbs of very white bread ; put it to
dry in a very slow oven, and beat it in a mortar; put it
through a search and use it ; every thing looks better
done with it.
Cooked forced Meat.* Farces Cuites.
Take the quantity of fowl necessary, or of veal ;
cut it in small dice, and do it with fine herbs, as is indi-
cated for the gratin; take and cut the meat, skin and
nerve it, hash and beat it; add as much panada as
flesh, and the same of udder, that is to say, that these
three materials consist of equal parts, and are all
first beaten separately; put in as many eggs as is
sufficient, taking care it is not too liquid; season with
salt, fine spiceries, and fine herbs, cooked in butter;
try a bit of it, and when properly done, add the
whites of some eggs well beaten with care as directed
in the gratin.
Forced Meat of Fowl. — Quenelles de Volaille.
Take off all the flesh of two fowls; skin and nerve
it carefully; beat it in a mortar till it passes through a
search (de quenelles) with the back of a wooden spoon;
take as much panada as of fowl, and the same of
butter, or udder of veal : having beaten them all se-
parately, mix and beat them altogether, adding one
after another till all is well incorporated; in the
same manner put in three eggs and three yolks, one
after another; season with salt and nutmeg ; beat them
well in ; gather it together in the mortar, and throw
a little bit into boiling water ; taste if good, and if not
firm, put in one or two entire eggs; when it has ar-
rived at its point, whip well the whites of three eggs,
and add them by degrees. Observe the follow.
ing directions :- If to garnish a large dish, take a
* If the cook takes a little pains she will soon understand forced
Ineats, as it is of the utmost professional consequence.


GRATIN.
207
and put
skimming spoon, and fill it with the quenelle; then, with
a knife dipt in warm water, give it the same form as
that in the spoon, which will be like an egg ; detach
it from the
spoon,
it into a buttered saucepan,
and in this manner make as many as is necessary; put
over them some very hot soup when you poach them,
taking care that they swim without touching one
another : let them boil softly, and turn them; when
sufficiently done drain upon a cloth, and dress them
on their dish. If the quenelles are for a vol-au-vent,
use two table-spoons to form them ; and if still for
smaller dishes, use tea-spoons, or any other shape, to
make them in.
Forced Meat of Rabbits. Quenelles de Lapereaux.
Take one or two young rabbits, and proceed in every
way as in the above article.
Ditto of Partridges. —- Quenelles de Perdreaux.
The same manner as in the foregoing article.
Ditto of Pheasants.-Quenelles de Faisans.
The same.
Pudding of Rabbits. — Boudin de Lapereaux à la
Richelieu.
Take the flesh of a rabbit, and cook it in the same
manner as is indicated in quenelle de volaille, except
that potatoes are used instead of panade; roast six or
eight good potatoes in the ashes; peel them, and put
them into a mortar; beat them very well ; take the
proper quantity, and put into the farce instead of
panada ; spread upon the cover of a stewpan, the
thickness of half an inch of farce, five inches long and
three broad; put along the middle of it a salpicon
with a knife, dipt in warm water, raise the sides and
the end of the farce over the salpicon till it is formed
into the appearance of a white pudding; butter
the bottom of a saucepan large enough that the
cover on which the pudding has been made can go
into it; heat the cover slightly, and slip the pud-
ding into the bottom of the stewpan; take the same
precaution to poach it as is indicated for quenelles


194
FRENCH COOKERY.
Filets de Soles à l'Italienne.
Take fried or cold soles ; take off the fillets nicely;
put a little stock into a saucepan, and put them in;
heat them upon hot cinders, taking care they do
not boil; when ready to serve, drain them upon a
cloth; dish one over the other like scales; and
sauce them with an Italienne.
Filets de Soles en Mayonnaise.
Follow the same procedure as in the foregoing
article, cutting the fillets two inches long, dishing
in the form of a crown, and pouring over them a
mayonnaise.
Filets de Soles en Salade.
Prepare the filets as above, and finish in the same
manner as indicated for salade de volaille.
Plaice, Flounder, and Bret. - Limande, Carrelet, et
Flaye.
These are sea-fish; flat like the soles ; the bret-
fish, which is the most delicate of the three, re-
sembles the sole ; the head is more pointed and not
so long; the flounder more delicate than the plaice,
has small red spots upon the scales, which distinguish
this fish from the bret-fish; the red spots of the
plaice, the skin of which is darker and more slaty, are
much smaller than those of the flounder ; these fish
are to be large of their kinds, with the flesh white
and firm; they are all cooked as the soles.
Fried Whitings. Merlans frits.
Scale, fin, gut, and wash the whitings ; put the livers
back into their stomachs; nick them on both sides ;
flour, and fry them till they are firm and of a fine
colour ; drain, strew a little salt over, and serve them
upon a napkin.
Whiting may be done as soles a la Hollandaise, or à
la Flamande, or sur le plat.
Grilled Whitings.
Merlans grillés.
Having prepared whitings as above, nick them
across, and lay them on the gridiron; do them on a
slow fire; when ready to turn, lay softly over them


WHITING.
195
the cover of a stewpan, and turn them over ; and if
any stick, disengage them with the back of a knife;
then slide them again gently upon the gridiron, using
the same precaution to take them up; masque with
white sauce and capers.
Another Way.
Merlans aux fines Herbes.
Prepare the whiting as for frying; put butter,
parsley, and scallions finely hashed, salt and nutmeg,
into a deep dish, and lay them in ; baste with melted
butter, and put some stock and white wine to
them ; turn them when half done; when they are
cooked, put their seasoning into a stewpan, with-
out taking them out of the dish ; add a little butter
rubbed in flour; cook, and thicken it; add lemon-
juice, and a little pepper ; sauce, and serve.
Another Way. —Filets de Merlans à la Horly.
Take six or eight small whiting; prepare them;
take off the fillets nicely ; steep them in lemon-juice,
a little salt, sprigs of parsley, and slices of onion;
when they are to be served, drain, and flour them, by
putting them into a cloth with a little flour, take
them out and fry them; drain, dish, and sauce with
an Italienne or a tomate, and serve.
Another Way. Hatelettes de Filets de Merlans.
Take off the fillets of twelve whitings, as indicated
above ; melt some butter; put into it the yolk of an
egg, and some salt; mix it well, and dip the fillets
into it; roll them up, and skewer them; put five or
six fillets on each skewer; heat again slightly the but-
ter in which the fillets had been already passed ;
dip them into it; strew the table with crumbs, roll
them lightly in them; put them carefully upon the
gridiron ; and three quarters of an hour before
serving them, put them over red cinders; renew the
cinders often ; turn them on all sides ; put over them
a gravy gras or maigre well seasoned, adding the
juice of a large lemon, and serve,
K 2


196
FRENCH COOKERY.
<
Filets de Merlans en Turban.
Take fifteen or eighteen whitings; cut the fillets
from five or six of the largest, and prepare the remainder
for forced meat (à la quenelles des merlans ;) this done,
make a large cork of bread, set it on the smallest
end in the middle of a dish ; put round it very
thin
slices of lard, and also forced meat, as it were, in
steps to form the turban ; surround it with fillets in
form of muslin bands to make a turban; if it is the
season, garnish it with white truffles, cut in the form
of large pearls, or any thing that may be turned to
have that appearance; baste with melted butter,
cover with thin slices of lard, and over them, buttered
paper; cook it in the oven with a light braise under
it; when enough done, take out the cork and all the
drain it; put into the hollow or well a good
Italienne, and serve; or ragoût may be used.
Filet de Merlans au Gratin.
Having the fillets ready, spread them upou a table;
cover them entirely with a cooked forced meat; if for
maigre, one of whitings, and roll it equally; spread
upon the bottom of a dish, rather more than half an
mch thick of farce; lay the fillets upon it in the form
of a crown; cover and fill it up entirely with farce,
and unite it together with the blade of a knife dipt in
hot water, giving it a regular form; strew grated
crumbs of bread over it, and baste it with butter;
put it into the oven till it takes a fine colour; sauce it
with an Italienne rousse, or an Espagnole reduite ; and
lard ;
serve,
Smelts. —Eperlans.
Smelt is a small fish much esteemed ; but only a
short time in season during the spring; has a beau-
tiful green, silvery, shining colour; and a strong odour
of violets, or cucumbers.
To fry Smelts. —Eperlans frits.
Scale, gut, and wipe a sufficient quantity; if very
small, pass a skewer through the eyes; dip them in
milk, and flour them; fry, and serve upon a napkin.


201
ots;
onion vith at. ad : ****
must be appie o tie na
Sen-Druon sith Curer
ter,
and
rve,
and
en
or
Cit af tie mm
and washi tenim
oil parser. I
serring, ril 11 az rol que
and some tien i
wuch inre na tha
Progare tie Tee 25. 2
mar-1 morts
irre
Tree
Eng za Ive
he Teu a
het a wote u RTR
clée
ray,
lled
1 of
COCK. Iun. LEI
aut
Fegar tre o FC
chce au DE 1.1
2
.
Basi lat i ne tik
le it inn 2 -
Per air to ne
as
ket
, to
are
'ith
ey,
eet
ire,
the
the
of
ver
nd
it on le ire 1 :
ot' sering nui te
3
- seras - Ir.
Iakce Trpa rin
very bush mu iz
equa): ri ter
with a buite tie IŁ
open the ax 2
powder them in
oil, parsley, ma
he
he
alf
ng
he
This temat man kan
e;


200
FRENCH COOKERY.
this seasoning: if large they will take three quarters
of an hour on the gridiron; if small, half an hour
will suffice; take care their belly does not open, that
they may not lose their juice ; cook them upon red
cinders; after they have been done sufficiently on both
sides, put them on their back that they may be
thoroughly done; dish, and with a wooden spoon put
a little cold maître d'hôtel into their backs, with the
juice of lemon, or sauce with it thickened, and serve.
Mackerel in the English Way.- Maquereaux à
i Anglaise.
Take three or four fresh mackerel; gut them by
the ears, draw out the stomach, tie up the head, and
cut the ends of the tails ; put a large handful of fennel,
and salt and water with the fish into a kettle; set
them on a slow fire; drain, dish, and serve with a
fennel or gooseberry sauce.
Another Way. — Maquereaux à la Flamande.
Prepare mackerel as in the last recipe; mix a bit
of butter with shalots, parsley, small minced onions,
salt, and the juice of, a lemon; and stuff them: roll
each in a buttered sheet of strong white paper; tie
them up tightly at the ends, and oil them; cook them
upon a slow equal fire for three quarters of an hour;
when ready, take them out of the paper; dish ; drip
the oil out upon the fish, and serve.
Mackerel.—Maquereaux à l'Italienne.
Cook the mackerel as indicated for sea-dragons à
l'Italienne, and sauce with an Italienne mixed with a
bit of butter.
Mackerel. Filets de Maquereaux à la Maître-
d'Hôtel.
Take off the fillets of three mackerels, cut them in
two, melt some butter in a frying pan, put them in,
the skin side downward; strew a little salt, and baste
them lightly with butter; cover them with paper, and
put them in a cool place, till ready to serve. Prepare
the following sauce : put two spoonfuls of velouté re-


MACKEREL.
201
duced in a saucepan; minced parsley and shalots;
boil the sauce; put in a large bit of excellent butter,
and the juice of a large lemon; clean the roes, and
cook them in salt and water; when ready to serve,
put the fillets upon the fire ; make them froth, and
turn them ; when done enough, drain ; dish them en
couronne, and garnish with bread fried in butter or
oil ; sauce, and serve.
Maquereaux au Beurre noir.
Prepare as the foregoing, and sauce with a beurre
noir, adding salt, vinegar, and fried parsley.
Skate. Raie.
There are several sorts of this fish, the Ray bouclée
is the best and most esteemed of all ;
the gentle ray,
which is without prickles, and the grand ray, called
tyr, and the long ray; there are also raytons, all of
which will be spoken of in their order.
Skate, with Caper Sauce. — Raie Bouclée, Sauce aux
Cápres.
Take a middling sized one ; cut off the wings as
near to the back as possible; put them into a bucket
of fresh water ; wash and rub them with a brush, to
take away the slime ; avoid the prickles, which are
dangerous ; drain and put it into a large kettle with
a handful of salt, slices of onions, sprigs of parsley,
two bay leaves, a clove of garlic, a sprig of sweet
basil, and a little white wine vinegar; put it on the fire,
make it boil, take it off, put in the liver, cover the
kettle with a cloth, leave it ten minutes ; take out the
liver and
put
it into a small
saucepan,
with
the seasoning; take out a wing, put it upon the cover
of the saucepan, take off the skin and prickles, and
all the black Hesh, and put it into a saucepan; do the
other wing in the same manner; run a part of the
seasoning through a search over the fish; about half
an hour before serving, warm the skate without letting
it boil;
drain it
upon a clean cloth; dish it with the
liver; garnish ; sauce with a sauce blanche au beurre;
strew over it capers or cucumbers cut in squares.
part of
K 5


204
FRENCH COOKERY.
fins ; put them to steep in milk and water ; drain, grill,
and dish with slices of onions, and apples of the ren-
net kind; serve oil with them.
FORCED MEATS.
Farce en Général. — Godiveau.
Take a noix* of veal; skin and nerve it well ;
mince it fine; beat it in the mortar till it be-
comes a paste; mince a double quantity of beef
suet, which must be dry and grainy, for if it is greasy
the godiveau will neither look well nor be good ; pick
off all the skin, and beat the whole together in a mor-
tar till they are perfectly mixed; put in salt, pepper,
and fine spicery ; mix and beat all well together ; take
an entire egg, which must be perfectly fresh, and mix
it well in ; then another, which must be also perfectly
incorporated; after this a third, which will be suffi-
cient for two pounds of godiveau ; put in a spoonful
of water ; continue to add
her every time the
water is incorporated: let this operation have time
that it may not be drowned ; when sufficiently wetted
as for a paste, strew a table with flour, and make a
little ball for trial, and throw it into boiling soup;
when done enough, it will yield under the finger ; cut
and taste if it be light and good ; if not firm enough,
add another egg to give it more consistence; if too
firm, a little water ; dust the table with flour, and roll
the godiveau into any convenient size; poach, drain,
and keep it in readiness for such ragoûts as require it.
Chairs à petits Pâtes et Pâte à la Ciboulette.
Take the quarter of a pound of a fillet of veal, and
as much beef, and a pound of beef-kidney fat;. mince
the veal and beef together as small as possible; hash
the suet ; mix all well together, and continue hashing
it with a hashing knife, seasoning with salt, pep-
per, and fine spiceries : put in two eggs, one after
the other, and continue to beat them ; when com-
pletely mixed add a little water, and continue to do
A noir is the large fine muscle found in the fillet, which cas
be taken out whole.


GRATIS.
so by little and little, till it is brought to a peugez CE-
sistence of forced meat; finish by adding parte ad
scallions minced very fine : put it into a peopez por so
that it may be in readiness for petits pétés opéra sis
ciboulette.
GRATIX.
Take half a pound of fiilet of real, eat it's
dice; put it into a stew pan with a bit of base a e
fine herbs minced, such as mushrooms. parc. sche
lions, with salt, fine spicery and peste; *
upon the fire, and stir it with a wooden troon; ke
it cook a quarter of an hour, drain of te bsa,
mince it fine, and put it into the mora: tace is
livers of fowls or game, wash and parboi ies: ****
them into cold water ; drain and put them at the
mortar with the other ingredients; beat them i.. *
together; add as much panade as meat; kate red
cooked and cold some veal's udder: be caret :: 0 tai
off the skin, and put in as much of the wet 2
each of the other ingredients, so that each
third; if there is no tetines, that is, Teatria.book
may be used; season with salt, and pestee 9,
one after the other in beating, and 250 m2 Tau;
when all is sufficiently beaten, taie trzecz
with a wooden spoon; make a trial by parties
not firm enough, add some yo.ks of an: venst
to perfection, whip the whites of three tam very sing
and mix it in by degrees, breaking them. 24 24 s
possible; truffles may be added weil micdi: pat
by for use.
N.B. This gratin may be rade etater fra
livers, either of poultry organik, w may
other sort of flesh meat, keeping in rex 2. *7 de
proportion of thirds, that is to say, one that
nada, one of liver, and one of butter.
Panade. Panade
Take a sufficient quantity of சாம் rel, or
it in small pieces, and put it into a xurga **
reduced cream; let it sock, and wien au sro
the cream, put it on the fire, ad cook in uk 3 uma


206
FRENCH COOKERY.
ner that it will have the consistence of a firm paste,
or it may be made of stock); incorporate into it two
yolks of eggs.
Bread Crumbs. — Mie de Pain.
Take some crumbs of very white bread ; put it to
dry in a very slow oven, and beat it in a mortar; put it
through a search and use it; every thing looks better
done with it.
Cooked forced Meat.* -Farces Cuites.
Take the quantity of fowl necessary, or of veal ;
cut it in small dice, and do it with fine herbs, as is indi-
cated for the gratin; take and cut the meat, skin and
nerve it, hash and beat it; add as much panada as
flesh, and the same of udder, that is to say, that these
three materials consist of equal parts, and are all
first bcaten separately; put in as many eggs as is
sufficient, taking care it is not too liquid , season with
salt, fine spiceries, and fine herbs, cooked in butter;
try a bit of it, and when properly done, add the
whites of some eggs well beaten with care as directed
in the gratin.
Forced Meat of Fowl. — Quenelles de Volaille.
Take off all the flesh of two fowls; skin and nerve
it carefully; beat it in a mortar till it passes through a
search (de quenelles) with the back of a wooden spoon;
take much panada as of fowl, and the same of
butter, or udder of veal : having beaten them all se-
parately, mix and beat them altogether, adding one
after another till all is well incorporated; in the
same manner put in three eggs and three yolks, one
after another; season with salt and nutmeg ; beat them
well in ; gather it together in the mortar, and throw
a little bit into boiling water ; taste if good, and if not
firm, put in one or two entire eggs; when it has ar-
rived at its point, whip well the whites of three eggs,
and add them by degrees. Observe the follow-
ing directions :- If to garnish a large dish, take a
* If the cook takes a little pains she will soon understand forced
meats, as it is of the utmost professional consequence.
as


GRATIN.
207
skimming spoon, and fill it with the quenelle; then, with
a knife dipt in warm water, give it the same form as
that in the spoon, which will be like an egg; detach
it from the spoon, and put it into a buttered saucepan,
and in this manner make as many as is necessary; put
over them some very hot soup when you poach them,
taking care that they swim without touching one
another: let them boil softly, and turn them; when
sufficiently done drain upon a cloth, and dress them
on their dish. If the quenelles are for a vol-au-vent,
use two table-spoons to form them ; and if still for
smaller dishes, use tea-spoons, or any other shape, to
make them in.
Forced Meat of Rabbits. Quenelles de Lapereaui.
Take one or two young rabbits, and proceed in every
way as in the above article.
Ditto of Partridges. —-Quenelles de Perdreaus.
The same manner as in the foregoing article.
Ditto of Pheasants. -Quenelles de Faisans.
The same.
Pudding of Rabbits.
Boudin de Lapereaur à la
Richelieu.
Take the flesh of a rabbit, and cook it in the same
manner as is indicated in quenelle de volaille, except
that potatoes are used instead of panade; roast six or
eight good potatoes in the ashes; peel them, and put
them into a mortar; beat them very well; take the
proper quantity, and put into the farce instead of
panada ; spread upon the cover of a stewpan, the
thickness of half an inch of farce, five inches long and
three broad; put along the middle of it a salpicon
with a knife, dipt in warm water, raise the sides and
the end of the farce over the salpiçon till it is formed
into the appearance of a white pudding; butter
the bottom of a saucepan large enough that the
cover on which the pudding has been made can go
into it; heat the cover slightly, and slip the pud-
ding into the bottom of the stewpan; take the same
precaution to poach it as is indicated for quenelles


208
FRENCH COOKERY.
de volailles ; when done, drain, and let them cool;
they may be grilled, after wetting them with the
yolks of eggs, and rolling them lightly in crumbs of
bread; let them be done on hot cinders ; when enough,
dish, either upon a good Italienne blanche or rousse,
or upon a Périgueux, and serve.
Pudding of Craw-fish. Boudin d'Ecrevisse.
Make a farce à quenelle of fowls; make use of it
in the same manner as of the rabbits, or lapereaux de
Richelieu ; make a salpicon of the tails of craw-fish,
mushrooms, and truffles; make it up into a pudding,
as is directed in the foregoing article ; in the mean
time, wash and dry the shells, and make a butter
sauce of them ; when the puddings are poached, dip
them into the butter; strew crumbs over them, and
baste them with it ; put them into the oven, and
when they have taken a fine colour, send them to table
covered with a od velouté, mixed with the craw-fish
butter sauce, so that it may be of a find red colour.
Pudding of Whitings. — Boudin de Merlans.
This pudding is made in the same manner as that
of young rabbits, except that of the forced meat
farce à quenelles) which is made of whitings; if for
maigre, the salpicon is made of the livers of whitings,
mushrooms, truffles, and Espagnole muigre; it is dipped
in egg, or rubbed with it ; rolled in crumbs, and basted
with butter ; put it into the oven, and serve it with an
Espagnole, or an Italienne maigre.
Boudins en général.
They may be made of pheasants, partridges, fowls,
salmon, &c. the manner of doing them is the same
throughout.
Rabbits. Croquettes de Lapereaus.
Roast a rabbit, let it cool ; take off all the flesh, and
separate it from the skin and nerves ; cut it in small
dice, with mushrooms, truffles, and some fat livers ;
reduce a soup-ladle full of velouté to half glaze, to
which add hashed parsley and scallions; put it on
the fire five or six minutes ; add the other ingredients,


PASTRY.
209
but do not let it boil; thicken it with the yolks of
eggs, having care to stir it with a wooden spoon;
pour it out upon a slab ; spread it with a knife, and
let it cool ; divide it in equal parts about the size of
half an egg; form them into any shape; roll them in
crumbs of bread, dip them into an omelette, with a
little salt; roll them again in crumbs, preserving
their form ; fry in a hottish frying-pan, till of a fine
colour; drain, and serve with fried parsley.
Whitings. Quenelle de Merlans.
Take the flesh of five or six whitings; skin, and
put it into a mortar ; beat it, and force it through a
cullender; beat some panada, and force it through also;
take butter in proportion, that these three ingredients
may
be equal* ; beat them up well together; add to it
salt, fine spiceries, a table-spoonful of fine herbs,
minced and cooked in butter, and a sufficient quantity
of eggs; finish in the same manner as indicated for
all other farces; make trial if it is good, and finish
with the white of eggs.
Salmon. Quenelles de Saumon
Is made in the same manner ; but rather less butter,
particularly if the salmon is very rich.
Pike. --- Quenelles de Brochet
Is done as whiting, adding some anchovies.
Carp.—Quenelles de Carpes.
Take two small carp; scale, skin, and take out the
nerves of the tail; hash them well with a little salt;
beat them in a mortar ; add two anchovies and fine
herbs cooked in butter, and put every thing in, in the
same proportion as in other quenelles ; season with
fine herbs; try a little bit of it, and finish with whites
of eggs.
PASTRY.
Pâte à dresser.
Take a quart of flour, (called by the bakers gruau),
• If the three different ingredients are made into balls, the
quantities will be easily ascertained.


210
PRENCH COOKERY.
put it on a paste slab ; form a well in the middle of the
Hour to contain water ; work a pound of butter, and
put into it ; add an ounce of fine salt*, and some water;
work the butter well in and beat the paste till it is
very firm ; work it well together, and break it two
or three times with the palm of the hand, and gather
it into one mass, and put it to repose half an hour in a
wet cloth before it is used. It may be made five or ix
pounds to a bushel; that of four pounds serves ge.
nerally for large cold pátés and cold timbales ; those
of five or six pounds, (and by adding an egg to
the pound), serve for hot pâtés, timbales of maca-
Toni, and others.
Observe, that half a pound of butter to the pound of
flour for cold pátés, and three quarters, with an egg, to
the pound of flour for the hot pátés, timbales, &c.
Páte brisée.
Take a quart of flour, more or less, as may be
necessary; pass it through a search, and put it on a
paste table; add an ounce of salt, a pound and a
half of butter, and as much water as will suffice to
make a firm paste ; work it well, that it may be mixed
without dividing the butter too much; put it firmly
together, and if too dry, add a little water; make it
into a mass ; strew the board with flour ; put the paste
upon it, sprinkle a little water over it, and cover it
with a wet cloth; let it repose half an hour, and use
it for cakes de pâte briste for the foundation of many
entreméts; for that purpose give it three or four turns
as long as the butter appears divided. Here Monsieur
Beauvillier enters into the rolling and flouring the
paste, and the manner of handling the rolling pin;
but as it is not to be suspected that any one will think
of following French cookery in this country, without
being an adept in these things, they are left out, as
rather confusing the work without being useful;
wherever he seems to excel, all is particularly noticed,
he desires that care should be taken not to strew too
• As salt butter is never used in France, if used, care must be
taken to wash it out rather than use more.


PASTRY.
211
GE
2
much flour over the paste when rolling it out, as it
makes it heavy and dull-looking ; and likewise if it
should be done, to dust it off with a bunch of feathers,
and pass it lightly over afterwards with a wet one;
having finished it, put it under a wet cloth, that it may
not dry till it is used; after it has lain half an hour,
give it another turn, and make it into any form that
is required.
Paste. —Pâte à Nouilles.
Put a pound of flour upon the table, break into it
three or four eggs; add a little salt, a little water,
melt about the size of a walnut of butter, and make
of these materials the paste; beat it with the palms
of the hands ; gather it together, and let it repose
some time; give it a turn or two; separate it in four,
which make as thin as possible ; cut it in stripes of an
inch and a half in breadth; dust them lightly with
flour, and cut them the thickness of a large vermicelle,
and as equal as possible; spread them on paper, and
leave them an hour or two in the air, during which
time, lift them lightly, that they may dry; poach them
in boiling salt and water; let them boil a quarter of an
hour; skim and drain them ; serve them in potage, or
clear soup; let them have two or three boils in it;
skim and serve.
Puft Paste. — Feuilletage.
Take a quart, or two pounds, of flour ; pass it
through a search upon the table; put in an ounce of
salt, some water, and some yolks of eggs, if approved
of; when the salt is melted, mix the water and flour,
without allowing it to break through, till the paste
has been gathered into a mass ; then beat it well till
it is quite smooth, and bring it as near as possible to
the consistence of the butter; avoid, if possible, adding
water at different times, as it prevents the paste
from working easily, and spoils the look of it; let
it repose; work two pounds of butter into a consis-
tence, wash and press it in a napkin; roll out the
paste, put the butter in a mass in the middle, and press
it out upon the paste, folding it up over the but-


212
FRENCH COOKERY.
ter upon all sides, and flatten the mass with the palm
of the hand; let it rest a quarter of an hour; for eight
pounds, which is the above proportion, give it five
turns, or five and a half, but that depends upon the
measure; to ten pounds of butter to the bushel of
flour, (that is, a pound and quarter to the pound of
flour), give six turns or six and a half. Use this paste for
(vol au vent) tarts for entremêts, petits pâtés au naturel ;
tartlets, all sorts of light pastry, and for sweetmeats.
Petits Pâtés au Naturel.
Roll out the paste for the bottom of the patés, and
cut them the size necessary, either of a feuilletage, or
of a páté bris'e ; put them upon an oven leaf, and put
upon each, the size of a walnut, of the farce called
ciboulette or godiveau; if for maigre, use the farce
de
carpes;
make the covers three times the thick-
ness of the bottoms, and of the same size; press them
lightly down and glaze them; a quarter of an hour is
sufficient in the oven; they ought to be served im-
mediately
Petits Pâtés au Jus.
Roll out a piece of pâté brisée, and cover little
moulds with it; fill them with the farce ciboullette, or
godiveau ; if for maigre, fill them with a farce of carp,
and a maigre sauce; cut the covers much thicker of
puffed paste or feuilletage ; glaze and put them into
the oven; when enough, take off their covers, cut the
farce, and take them out of the moulds ; dish, and
sauce them with a good espagnole reduite and serve.
Petits Pâtés à la Béchamelle.
Roll out a piece of feuilletage (puff paste) pretty
thick, and such as has had five* turns; cut the bottoms
with a small paste cutter of an inch and half over ;
put them upon a leaf; turn and glaze them; mark
* Paste that has had a pound and a quarter of butter to the
pound of flour. To give paste one turn is to roll it at first out as
long as it will bear without the butter coming through; then fold
in three, and roll it out as before. This operation, therefore,
must be continued as is necessary, four, five, or six times; half a
turn is made by folding it in two.


PASTRY.
213
them with a small paste cutter near the edge, to form
a cover for them when they come out of the oven;
raise the covers and scoop out the soft paste; have
fowl cut in small dice, or well minced; at the mo..
ment of serving have a béchamelle reduced, and
highly seasoned ; put the fowl into it: warm the whole
without letting it boil; fill the pâtés and serve; or
they may
be filled with livers, salpiçon, or carp-roes.
Petits Pâtés Bouchés à la Reine.
Roll the paste thinner than in the last article; cut
them very small, and mark them for the covers, glaze,
and send them to the oven; when enough, take off
their covers ; take out the heart, and fill them with
the ragoût aftermentioned; mince very fine some
white of fowls, and put it into a good boiling bécha-
melle ; mix it well together, fill the pâtés, and serve.
Petits Pâtés à la Mancelle.
Make cases as for pâtés au jus; take a roasted par-
tridge; cut the flesh in small dice, and beat the car-
casses in a mortar, put into a stewpan half a glass of
white wine, two shalots, and three spoonfuls of espagnole;
reduce, skim, and take out the shalots; put in the
carcasses; mix it without letting it boil, by simmering ;
force it through the cullender; keep it hot, and at the
moment of serving, add the meat of the partridge,
the juice of a bitter orange, and half a pat of butter;
fill the crustades or pâtés with this ragoût, and serve.
Petits Pâtés au Salpicon.
Make cases for these pâtés, as is indicated for those
au jus; when they are enough, take out the godiveau
or ciboullette, cut it in small dice; add cooked mush-
rooms, truffles, livers of fowl, bottoms of artichokes,
all cut an equal size; put all these into an espagnole
reduced; boil them once up, taste if it is good;
skim, fill the pâté, and serve.
Tourle d'Entrée de Godiveau.
Make a bottom the size of an entrée, put it in a tart-
pan, put a little godiveau in the middle of it, and strew
good pinch of mushrooms which have been
cooked in butter, and drained; add a few artichoke
over a


214
FRENCH COOKERY.
<
bottoms cut in five or six pieces; take godiveau, roll it
out in andouillettes, the size most convenient for the
dish, dress them over and round these ingredients in
such a manner that they form a flattened dome; make
a cover a little larger than the bottom; wet the bor-
der of the first, put it over to form a cover, and fix it
to the under one ; dress it properly round the edge;
glaze it, and put it into the oven; when done, raise
the cover, sauce it with a good espagnole, and serve it;
or put the ragoût into a stewpan, and give it a boil in
the espagnolc, which you must skim; dish the tart, fill
it with the ragoût, and serve; all ragoût tarts may
be done in the same way.
Pâtés à la Ciboulette.
Take some pâte à dresser; work and form it as di-
rected au flan de nouilles; fill it with a farce à la
ciboulette ; cut out a cover of paste; cover the farce
with it, and unite it firmly to the bottom, which must
be cut and pinched; make another cover of puffed
paste or feuilletage, and put upon it; check it across,
glaze it, and put it into the oven ; when enough, take
off the cover, and the fat from the páté; cut the
farce in pieces without taking it out; sauce it with a
good espagnole reduite ; add, if it is liked, the juice of
a lemon; cover, and send it to table.
Pâté chaud de Godiveau.
Take some pâte à dresser, and form a páté as in the
last article; make it higher, (as the French cooks say,)
to have more grace; spread upon the bottom a little
godiveau; follow what is directed for the tourte de
godiveau, and finish in the same manner.
Pâté à la Financière.
Make a pâté, and fill it with meat to be cooked for
other purposes; or in default of that, fill it with soup,
meat, or flour; when the case is baked, and of a fine
colour, take out the flour or meat, as well as the soft
paste, and fill it with a bonne financière.
Pâté chaud, Maigre de Carpe et d' Anguille.
Make a case (de pâte), spread over the bottom a little


PASTRY.
215
roes.
quenelle de carpe, mushrooms, artichokes, and junks
of eel, which ought to be cooked in a good seasoning;
finish by filling with quenelles de carpe, rolled in flour,
and formed into andouillettes ; cover the páté and lay
over another of feuilletage, put it in the oven, and
when three-fourths done, cut the top ; when enough
take it up and sauce it with a good Espagnole maigre
reduced, and mixed with soft
carp
Vol-au-Vent.
Make any quantity of feuilletage in the propor-
tion of a pound and a quarter of butter to a pound
of flour ; give it five turns; cut to the size of the
dish, and lay it upon an oven leaf; glaze it, and
mark it with a smaller paste cutter, an inch and
half from the edge, and make any design or figures
with a knife upon the cover and border; put it
into the oven, and when cooked take off the cover
and scrape out the soft; serve the vol-aux-vents for en-
trées and entremets; if for entrées with ragoûts either
of fish or meat; if for entremets, vegetables, sweetmeats,
or soufflés.
Paté froid de Veau.
Take two veal noix*, beat them, take off the skin
and nerves ; lard them with large lard, seasoned with
pepper, fine spiceries, parsley, and some aromatics
beaten and sifted; make a farce of the undert noiz
de veau with an equal quantity of lard minced very
fine; season this farce with salt, pepper, fine spiceries,
aromatics, and, if agreeable, a small clove of garlic;
beat this farce in the nortar; add some entire eggs,
one after the other, and a little water from time to time,
but in such proportion that there shall be more water
than eggs: cover the bottom of a stewpan with thin
slices of lard; put upon it a little of the farce; season
the veal with salt, pepper, and fine spices; put it into
the stewpan over the farce, fill it up to the top, and
see that there are no voids ; then cover the stewpan,
• The large fleshy muscles found in the fillets.
† The smaller muscle.


216
FRENCH COOKERY.
and let it bake an hour : take it out and let it cool;
in the meantime take some pâte à dresser, wet and roll
it to about an inch in thickness ; make it round, put it
upon two sheets of paper pasted together and buttered;
put a little farce upon it which has been kept for that
purpose, spread that farce the size of the stewpan in
which the meat has been baked ; warm the stewpan
lightly to detach, turn it out upon a cover, from which
slide it into the middle of the paste, work some butter,
strew four upon the board, and roll it out half an
inch thick ; form a crown to the páté of it, putting
some pieces above with four or five half laurel leaves;
then cut another cover of paste half an inch thick; it
will be necessary that it is large enough to cover the
meat, and fall down to the bottom; wet the paste at the
edge of the meat, and unite the cover to the bottom;
should there be too much paste, take it away; glaze it
over, bring up the under paste to the top, and form the
bottom of
the páté : roll out some more paste to make
another cover: wet the top of the pâté and fix the
edges nicely round; clear off all the useless paste, and
finish the pâté by bringing up the under paste to the
top handsomely; make another cover of feuilletage;
put it on, making a hole in the middle: glaze it, put
it into a very hot oven, that has fallen a little, and
give it a fine colour ; but should it appear to take too
much, cover it with paper; let it bake three or four
hours;
take it
up and sound it with a wooden larder; if
it enters easily, it is enough; put in a glass of brandy;
shake it, and add a little stock ; when it is nearly cold,
cork the chimney or hole on the top, and turn it up,
that the brandy and stock may penetrate throughout:
when served take off the paper; scrape the bottom, put a
napkin upon a dish, and serve as a grosse or large piece.
Pâté en Timbale.
Prepare the meat as indicated in the foregoing
article: take a well-tinned stewpan; having made a figure
in it with the same paste that the pâté is to be made
of; roll some paste half an inch thick and put it into
the stewpan in such a manner that it shall remain half


PASTRY.
217
an inch over the edge; put into it some thin slices of
bacon, and lay a little farce over it; put in the meat,
nourish it with a little butter, and season it as for the
pâté froid; wet the paste which is over the edge; roll
out another piece to make a cover, and put it over the
meat; form and unite the edges; make a hole in the
middle, put the mould upon an oven leaf to prevent it
taking too fast, and put it into a quick oven that has
fallen a little ; bake it three or four hours; sound it
with a wooden larder ; if it yields readily it is done
enough ; put into it brandy and stock; shake it well;
let it stand in its mould till nearly cold; cork it and
turn it up; put the mould to heat slightly on a
stove or hot table; turn it out, and serve.
Páté froid a la Deforge.
Take one of Deforge's moulds of white iron; put it
on an oven leaf; roll out paste as above, and put it into
the mould, ta ng care to put the paste well into the
design of the mould; put into it some thin slices of
bacon, also forced meat, &c., finish it exactly as the
timbales.
Ham Pie. -Pâté de Jambon.
Take a good Westphalia or Bayonne ham; pare,
bone, and trim it nicely; put it to steep for eight or
ten hours; drain, wipe, wrap it in a cloth, and put it
to cook in a pot nearly of the same size, with three
pounds of sliced beef, a pound of sain-dour, of rasped
lard, and a pound and half of good butter; season it
with carrots, parsley, onions, stuck with two or three
cloves, laurel, thyme, sweet basil, and a clove of garlic;
cook it three fourths. Take it from the fire, skim it,
let it cool, and trim it anew; take the ingredients it
was cooked with, hash them very small with a pound
of lard; beat the whole in a mortar, add two or three
eggs one after the other and fine herbs hashed. Take
some pâté à dresser, wet it, roll it out till it is nearly an
inch thick, put it upon two sheets of buttered paper;
mark in the middle the place for the ham; diminish
the thickness a half by pressing it with the fist, then
L


218
FRENCH COOKERY.
raise the paste to form the pâté, in making the paste
to re-enter into itself without folds ; also forming the
bottom nicely at the same time. Observe not to make
this paste richer than four pounds to the bushel ; half a
pound of butter to the pound of flour. Spread a little
of the farce over the bottom, and lay over it the ham;
fill it up with the farce ; cover the pâté, and solder it
well; put on an upper cover of puft paste, feuilletage,
or pâte brisée ; make a hole or chimney in the middle,
set it to bake in a hot oven; let it take a fine colour;
when nearly done run the stock it was cooked in
through a hair search; season without skimming; fill
the páté with it, taking care to shake it well ; put it
into the oven, and let it simmer half an hour; take it
up, fill it again and let it cool; cork it, turn it upside
down, and leave it all night in that position; take off
the paper, scrape the bottom, and send it to table on a
napkin.
Partridge Pye.-Pâté de Perdreaux.
Take three or four partridges, truss them as fowls
for boiling, singe, wipe, and lard them with large lard;
season them with salt, pepper, fine spiceries, and aro-
matics, hashed parsley, and young onions; make a
farce of their livers, adding those of fowls, a bit of
veal tetine* parboiled, if there is any; if not, a bit of
lard; hash the whole, and season it as the lard for
larding; put it into a mortar and beat it; wet it with
eggs, one after another, and a little water, as directed
in other farces ; cut open the partridges at the back,
and put in a little of the farce; roll out the paste and
raise it, as directed for pâté de jambon; spread some
farce on the bottom, and lay in the partridges; fill up
the intervals with farce, cover it with slices of lard;
lay over worked butter, and finish as directed for
(Paté de veau.)
Partridge Pie.- Paté de Perdreaux rouges à la
Périgueur.
Have five or six partridges, and two pounds and a
• Veal's udder.


PASTRY.
219
half of truffle; prepare the partridges as directed in
the foregoing article; brush, wash, and skin the
truffle; hash the small ones, make a farce of the
livers and other ingredients, as is indicated above, with
the addition of the truffles; stuff the partridges with
the farce, and add some whole truffles; do it in every
respect as the páté de veau. It may be formed into
any shape, round, oval, or en bastion.
Fowl Pies - Pâtés de Poulardes et toute Volaille,
comne Dindon, Poulet, &c.
These pâtés are all made in the same manner;
after preparing the fowls, cut them open at the back,
take out the bones, lard and season them as directed
in other pâtés ; if they are not entirely boned, take out
the back bones and break the others; cook them in a
stewpan either in the oven or on a furnace; let them
cool, and make a farce as for the veal pâtés ; finish as
in the foregoing article, whether for a timbale or a pâté.
Lark Pie. Pâté de Pithiviers.
Take eight dozen of larks; and having prepared,
open them at the back; take out all that is in the
body, and after taking out the gizzards, hash the
intestines; add rasped lard and fine herbs, beat the
whole into a farce; fill the larks with it; roll out a
paste, put a little farce upon it, and arrange the birds ;
season them properly; they may be either wrapt or
not in lard ; put over it a crown of butter, two or
three half bay leaves, and fine spiceries; cover the
whole with paste, forming the pâté round, oval, or
square; bake it two hours and a half; let it cool, and
All small birds are done in the same manner,
and the quantity and quality of farce depends on
those who make it.
Paste. -Pâte à Brioche.
Take a quarter of a bushel of flour, more or less, to
make this pâte ; take to a quarter of a bushel twelve
or thirteen eggs, and two pounds of butter, which
makes it eight pounds to the bushel, or half and half;
an ounce of beer yeast, and an ounce of fine salt. To
serve.
L 2



218
FRENCH COOKERY.
raise the paste to form the pâté, in maki
to re-enter into itself without folds; also
bottom nicely at the same time. Observe
this paste richer than four pounds to the b
pound of butter to the pound of flour. Si
of the farce over the bottom, and lay over
fill it up with the farce ; cover the pâté,
well; put on an upper cover of puft paste
or pâte brisée; make a hole or chimney i
set it to bake in a hot oven; let it take a
when nearly done run the stock it wa
through a hair search; season without sl
the pâté with it, taking care to shake it
into the oven, and let it simmer half an
up, fill it again and let it cool; cork it,
down, and leave it all night in that pos
the paper, scrape the bottom, and send i
napkin.
Partridge Pyeo_Pâté de Pe
Take three or four partridges, truss
for boiling, singe, wipe, and lard them
season them with salt, pepper, fine spi
matics, hashed parsley, and young o
farce of their livers, adding those of
veal tetine* parboiled, if there is any
lard; hash the whole, and season it
larding; put it into a mortar and bea
eggs, one after another, and a little
in other farces ; cut open the partri
and put in a little of the farce; roll
raise it, as directed for páté de jamb
farce on the bottom, and lay in the P
the intervals with farce, cover it with
lay over worked butter, and finish
(Pâté de 'veau.)
Partridge Pie. Paté de Perdreaux
Périgueux.
Have five or six partridges, and two p
Veal's udder.



PASTRL
235
ons.
half of trufle: prepare the partie
the foregoing article: brash, ah, in the
truffe; hash the small ones, make for de
livers and other ingredients, as is indicated
the addition of the trafiles ; stuif the pers
the farce, and add some whole traile
respect as the páté de remu. It may
any shape, round, oral, or en feston
Foul Piei-Pates de Peleda
comme Duden, P.
These pátés meal be
after preparing the foresti
take out the bones, lani za
in other nätés if they are
the back bones and break the
stewpan either in the en
cool, and make a femeie
in the foregonganiskie
ive it another turn; cut it
alf an inch; have turned
roll them along, leaving
where they can be fixed;
put them into the oven;
the moulds; put them
ugar; glaze them in the
ns;
dress and serve.
nour.
Tala egit ideae
open them
it out as above; cut it
f different sizes; cut
arge
and small; put the
with water, and put on
and with the point of a
, the size of a thimble ;
when nearly done, pow-
em, take out the heart,
d serve.
Tartelettes bandées.
• them with pâte brisée
team pâtissière or any
paste, and band them
it little bands of paste
and put them round
and when nearly ready,
Fâteaux en Lozange.
strips, and then into
into the oven : when
onvenient, and serve:
body, and it
intestina
whole its
paste, pues
season the
not in a
three heat
whole with
square; bali
serve.
those the
make thing
or thirteen es
makes iten
20 OUNCE DE
to fine alt


220
PRENCH COOKERY.
make this páte, pass a quart of four through a sieve;
separate a fourth part; make two holes in the flour,
the least to put the yeast in; heat some water more
than milk warm, take care that it is not too hot; mix
the yeast with the hot water, and when there are no
more knots, mix the flour into it; work and gather
the whole into a mass; shake a little flour on the
board, and form the paste as a baker forms a loaf;
slash the paste lightly across; dry the vessel in which
the water was warmed, strew it with flour, and put in
leaven; cover it with a cloth, and put it in a warm
place ; while it is rising, put into the large fountain
the salt melted in water; break the eggs in a dish,
take care they are fresh, add and mix them well with
the butter and a little sugar; mix all well with the flour,
beat it with the hands; if the leaven is risen, which is
easily known by the cross being enlarged, it will be
like lace; pour it on the paste, and break it with the
hands, always putting upon the paste what is broken;
do it lightly again; let the leaven be well incorporated,
gather it together, and put a cloth in a dish; strew it
with flour, and put in the paste, folding it tight; leave
it to rise four or five hours in summer, and seven
or eight in winter; if the paste be spoilt, it will form eyes,
and become tough, which may be known by pressing
it with the hand; if it resists, then it is properly made.
seep it in a cool place for use. Haif a pound on
more butter may be added to the quart.
Paste Pâte d'echaudes.
Take a quarter of a bushel of fine flour; put it
through a search, make a hole in the middle, put
in two ounces of salt with a little water ; break into a
dish twenty or twenty-two eggs, put them to the salt
and water, and add a pound of butter; the paste
ought to have a good body, and it is not necessary that
it should be very fine ; work the eggs into the flour by
little and little, till it is gotten into a mass; cut it
in pieces, and throw it with force upon the table; draw
it near, turn it over with the points of the fingers, give


PASTRY.
221
it a turn by gathering it together, cut it again, and go
through the same operation five or six times ; gathering
it together, strew flour upon the board, and Hatten it ;
leave it all night; next day cut it in bands; dust the
table with flour, roll upon it these bands, and cut the
echaudés any size; dust a board with flour, arrange
them
upon
it; heat some water; let them simmer with-
out boiling, or rather let the water be always ready to
boil, which must be prevented by throwing from time
to time cold water into it; when they are firm under
the finger, take them out of the water and throw them
into fresh water; change it, and take them out in two
hours ; lay them separate upon a leaf, and put them in
the oven.
Paste for common Biscuit.- Pâte à Biscuit ordinaire.
Take twenty eggs, separate the whites from the
yolks very carefully; put the last in a deep dish with
a pound of sifted sugar, and two or three drops of
the spirit of lemon or jessamine ; in default of both,
sub a bit of sugar upon the skin of a lemon, from which
it will extract the oil; rasp this sugar into the other
ingredients, and beat them well: the more it is beaten
the firmer it will be, which is indispensable to make fine
biscuits; mix into it six ounces of flour; the half of
it may be that of potatoe; put the whites into a copper
vessel not tinned ; if there is no basin of this sort, take
one of the copper or brass sweetmeat pans; see that
it is perfectly clean; beat the whites in the beginning
softly, increasing in quickness till they are so strong as
to bear the weight of half-a-crown: mix them in with a
wooden spoon, do it in a manner not to break the
whites, and make use of this pâte for savoy and com-
mon biscuits.
(Fine biscuits, article Biscuits d'Office.)
Paste Royal. —Páte Royale.
Put into a stewpan a wine glass of water, two ounces
of butter, a little salt, and the skin of a green lemon,
with some essence of orange-flower ; put them upon
the fire, and take it off when it begins to boil; put in
as much flour as it will take, mix it well; put it again
L 3


222
FRENCH COOKERY.
1
take;
upon the fire; stir it round; dry it till it separates from
the
pan, and does not stick to the fingers: change the
pan, and leave it to cool a little; put in two eggs ;
afterwards add egg after egg until it sticks to the
fingers; use it for des choux, des pains à la duchesse, des
pains
à la
mecque,
and with all small entremets.
Queen's Paste. Pâte de Choux à la Reine.
Put upon the fire a stewpan, with half a pint of
milk or cream, and a little salt; when ready to boil,
draw it to the side, and mix as much flour as it will
finish as above; only adding with the eggs a
quarter of a pound of sifted sugar : make these petits
choux, which are in general no larger than a nut, any
size or form; give them a slow oven.
Pouplin.
Make a pâte royale, but with less 'butter, dry it,
and give it as many eggs as it will take, without being
liquid;brush over a stewpan or pouplinière with clarified
butter, drain it, fill it only a third, and put it in an
oven less heated than for puft paste; give it two
hours, or more, according to its size: take off the top
in the manner of a pâté, cut out all the soft paste, and
butter the inside lightly; put it into the oven to dry;
dust fine sugar over, and glaze it with a hot poker ;
glaze it within, fill it with any sweetmeat; serve it upon
a napkin as a large dish.
Ramakins. - Pâte à Ramecain.
Put
upon
the fire the quantity of water necessary,
and add in equal quantities Gruyère cheese and butter;
when it boils, take it off the fire and mix in flour, and
finish as in the above articles: dress these ramecains as
the petits choux; give them a slow oven.
Ramakins another Way. —- Pâte à Ramecain d'une
autre Manière.
Make a pâte royale, and when dried put in eggs to
make it rather wet; add a large handful of Parmesan
and Gruyère cheese, mixed in equal quantities, and as
much
cut in small dice; mix them well to-
gether; make them of any size; glaze them, and put


PASTRY.
223
them into a slow oven a quarter of an hour before
serving: if for a buisson* serve them upon a napkin.:
Ramakins without Cheese. - -Talmouse sans Fromage.
Make a pâte royale ordinaire, wet it with eggs, but
not too moist; roll out a puft paste of the thickness of
half a crown, cut it in rounds of three inches and half,
dress the ingredients upon them, and turn up three
sides like a cocked hat; glaze them lightly, and put
them into a hot oven ; serve as hot as possible.
Ramakins of Saint Denis. -Talmouses à la Saint
Denis.
Take a pound and a half of cheese à la pie, and a
quarter of cheese de Brie, well cleaned, with a little
salt ; mix them well together; add a handful of flour
passed through a search; a quarter of a pound of melted
butter; work altogether, and dress it upon paste, as in
the above article; put it in the oven, and serve it either
for buisson or entremets.
Ramakins. -Fondus.
Take raspt Gruyère and Parmesan cheese in equal
quantities, wet them with yolks of eggs, add a little
melted butter ; mix all well together; beat the whites
very well; add them by degrees, stirring them lightly
with a wooden spoon; have cases ready, and fill them
only half; bake them in an oven heated as for biscuits,
and serve hot.
A Cheese Cake.-
-Gâteau au Fromage.
Take the quarter of a fine fat cheese'de Brie, beaten
and sifted; have a pound and a half of four, make a
hole, put in three quarters of a pound of butter which
has been workedt ; add the cheese and five or six eggs;
work the paste; beat it well with the hand, as done in
pâte à dresser; roll and work it as a baker makes bread;
leave it to rest half an hour; roll it out, and make
a cake of about three inches thick; nick it round,
glaze, and ray it; that is, to mark it with rays diverging
* Buisson, is a high standing remove, for a centre.
† Butter which has been washed and well worked in the hands.
L. 4


224
FRENCH COOKERY.
from the centre; bake it in an ordinary hot oven, and
erve.
Brioche Cheese.—Brioche au Fromage.
Make a quarter of pâte à brioche, leave it to come
(see that article); put in a pound, or a pound and a half
of good Gruyère cut in dice; take off a quarter of the
paste, work them separately, put the largest upon
strong buttered paper, shaped like a loaf; flatten it in
the middle with the palm of the hand; work the smaller
part rounder, and dress it upon the large ; beat two
eggs; glaze the brioche; cut some Gruyère cheese in
leaves or hearts, and make a rose upon the top: put it
into a hot oven, where it will take nearly three hours:
take it from the paper, put it on a napkin, and serve it
as a large dish.
Lard Cake. Gâteau au Lard.
Take lard cut in thin slices; steep it a little in
water; have ready a pâte brisée, with little salt ; form
a cake; dress the edges, and put it on a leaf; glaze
and cover with the lard, of which the skin has been
taken off.
Another Cake. — Gâteau de Campiègne.
Sift a quarter of flour; make in it two holes, as
in pâte à brioche ; take a full quarter of the flour to
make a leaven, which must be raised with a little
yeast; make this leaven more liquid than for the
paste ; put it to rise; put into the flour for the paste
an ounce of salt, a large glass of water, a handful of
fine sugar, the zests of two lemons minced very fine,
confected citron cut small; make the paste as directed
at the article pâte à brioche, only less firm; if neces-
sary add a little water; butter a mould as for the
pouplin, and put it in; let it rise five or six hours;
let the oven be well heated; give it two hours; turn
it out of the mould, and serve it cold as a centre
dish.
Pastry Cream. Crème Pâtissière.
Break two eggs into a stewpan, with a little salt and
as much sifted flour as it will take ; mix in a pint of


226
FRENCH COOKERY.
them;
and ray it in forming squares three inches long and
two broad; glaze it with milk a second time; sift su-
gar over it, and sprinkle it with confected hashed
orange flowers, and let the sugar melt a little; put
the niauffes into an oven a little hotter than for bis-
cuits, and where a fire has been lighted, to brown
when done enough take them out of the oven,
cut them in squares, and serve them for entremets.
Tart. --Tourte de Frangipane.
Take a tart-pan, the size wanted; cover it with
paste lightly puffed ; put in frangipane an inch thick,
and leave round it paste that will make a band of the
thickness of an inch, to suit the size of the tart for a
border; lay the band round; make the ends meet as
nicely as possible; glaze it, and form any design
upon it; give it rather a hot oven; when done,
dust fine sugar over it, glaze, and serve it hot or cold.
Marrow Pasty.-Tourte à la Moëlle.
Take about a quarter of a pound of beef marrow;
pick it, and put it upon the fire; when it is a little hot,
break it, and put it into frangipane; proceed as in
the last article; but this tart is only served hot.
Kidney Pasty. Tourte au Rognons de Veau.
Take a veal kidney that has been roasted, with a
part of the fat; hash part, or the whole, according to
the size of the tart, and mix it in a frangipane, as
above.
Sweet Meat Pasty. — Tourte de Confitures.
Roll out some pâte brisée of the size that you would
make
your tart; put it in a tart-pan; fill it with any
kind of jam or confection, leaving an inch and a half
of border; wet it; make small twisted bands, and
cross the tart, or leave it
open,
and put a band entirely
round the border as the frangipane ; bake and glaze
them in the same manner.
Peach Pasty. Tourte de Pêches.
Cover a tart-pan with paste ; wet the edges; put a


PASTRY.
227
:
23
N
3
band round; glaze the band; bake it and glaze it
again; put in a compôte de pêches; reduce the syrup,
and at the moment of serving, pour it over. In all
seasons, make all fruit tarts and tartlets in this
manner.
Rice Cake. Gâteau au Riz.
Pick, wash, and boil half a pound of rice; make it
burst with a little milk, in which there has been boiled
lemon peel ; wet the rice little by little, till it is bro-
ken thoroughly ; let it cool; incorporate a dozen ma-
caroons ; let the half be bitter; a little salt, six ounces
of sugar, four whole eggs, and four yolks; butter a stew-
pan with clarified butter ; drain it, and powder it with
crumbs of bread; whip the whites; mix them lightly
with the rice; pour the whole into a stewpan, which
must serve for a mould; put it into the oven, half or
three quarters of an hour before serving ; turn it out,
and serve.
One may be made of vermicelli in the same man-
ner. If to be served as a pudding, pour over it a sauce
made in the following manner.
Put into a pan half a spoonful of flour, and mix it
with cream, a tea-spoonful of orange-flower water, a
little salt, a spoonful of sifted sugar, and the size of a
walnut of hutter; cook it, and pour it over the
puddings. This sauce will serve for either of the above,
when served as pudding.
Carrot Cakes. Gâteaux de Carottes.
Take twelve large carrots, the reddest possible, boil
them in water with a little salt; take out the hearts
and drain them; put them through the cullender into
a stewpan; dry them upon the fire, as pâte royale ;
make a cream pâtissière ; put in as much ffour as it will
take; add the carrots, with a little confected orange-
flowers minced, three quarters of a pound of sifted
sugar, four eggs one after another, six yolks, and a
quarter of a pound of melted butter; mix all well;
whip the whites; mix them in lightly ; prepare a stew-
pan as for the gateau de riz, three quarters of an hour
before serving put it into the oven.
u

L 6


228
PRENCH COOKERY.
Pistache Cake. Gâteau aux Pistaches.
Make a cream patissière, prepare a quarter of a
pound of pistachios and of sweet almonds ; beat them
together; from time to time add a drop of water to pre-
vent oiling; when smooth take them out of the mor-
tar; have a spoonful of spinage, blanched and passed
in butter ; beat them and put them through a cullen-
der, and put all the ingredients into the cream ; finish
as for the gâteau de carottes, but instead of confected
orange-flower, let it be orange-flower water; a tea-
spoonful will be sufficient.
Flanc de Nouilles méringuées.
Take a bit of pâte à dresser, turn and roll it to the
thickness of three or four lines ; make a flattened
round in the middle of the paste with the palm of the
hand, to form the bottom of the flanc; raise the sides
of it, by making the paste go into itself without
forming any folds ; form the bottom of the páté; fill it
with four till within half an inch of the top; make a
top for it of pâte moulée; roll it out, and make it round
of the size of the flanc ; cover and solder it well; take
away the superfluous paste, dress it tastefully, and
bake it as a pâté ; when enough, take out the flour and
scrape the crust well; have nouilles sufficient; poach
them in milk, drain them, put in some yolks of eggs,
sugar, orange-flowers, or green citron, minced maca-
roons, and massepains bruised; add salt and some
good melted butter; mix altogether; whip the half of
the whites of the eggs, and incorporate them lightly;
put the nouilles thus prepared into the flanc; put it
into a slow oven, give it three quarters of an hour ;
when it has risen well, beat the rest of the whites, sea-
son them as for meringues ; cover the flanc with it;
glaze with sugar, sifted through a hair search ; bake it
of a fine colour, and serve.
Flanc de Vermicelle.
Poach the vermicelle, drain it, and proceed in the
same manner as flanc de nouilles.


PASTRY.
229
Flanc Suisse.
Make a flanc as directed in the preceding articles;
while it is baking boil a chopin of cream with a quar-
ter of a pound of butter, of which make a fine pâte
royale ; Aour of wheat or potatoes may be used put
into a dish grated gruyère, with some cheese à la pie,
and cheese de brie, which have been beaten fine, and
mixed with melted butter, all of equal quantities; add
pepper, and wet it with the yolks of eggs; mix it with a
wooden spoon, and give it more body than for biscuit;
take half of the whites, beat them well till they are
firm, and mix them lightly with the paste ; pour it into
the flanc; only fill it half, or a little more; put it in a
moderate oven, when baked serve immediately.
Croque-en-Bouche.
Make a pâte royale; into which put very little but-
ter, and rather more flour; wet it with eggs; make it
rather firm; separate it equally in little bits no larger
than the point of the little finger, having a sufficient
quantity to fill the mould; glaze them and put them
into the oven till they are of a fine colour ; oil the
mould; clarify and boil some sugar to that called
boulet (see Sucre au Boulet); take a twig or wire
and lift every chou separately; dip them into the sugar
one by one, putting them into the mould, beginning at
the middle, and continuing all round till brought to
the top, placing them to support one another ; turn it
out, but if it sticks heat it a little and it will come out;
dress it upon a napkin, and serve.
Cake of a hundred Leaves. Gâteau de Mille-
Feuilles.
Make a quarter of feuilletage, when finished cut it
in five pieces, one of them must be double the size
of the others; roll out the four smaller ones thin; put
each on a leaf or paper ; take the fifth, which ought to
be much thicker, to form the uppermost ; glaze and
bake them; let them cool; put the bottom upon a dish,
and cover it lightly with currant jelly; then lay on an-
other, upon which put apricot marmalade; on the


230
FRENCH COOKERY.
shird, confection of verjuice, and the fourth garnish
with cherries ; put on the cover ; cut it upon
the model
of an octagon or figure of eight sides; serve it upon
a napkin, as grosse pièce d'entremets.
Almond Paste. Páte d'Amandes.
Take a pound of sweet almonds and a quarter of a
pound of butter ; blanch and beat them in a mortar,
putting in from time to time a drop of water, and
alternately a drop of white of egg, which can be
done by making a small hole in the end, from
which it will come drop by drop: to whiten them put
in a little lemon juice: when it is properly reduced
into a very smooth pâte, put in three quarters of a
pound of sifted sugar* royal ; take the pâte out of the
mortar and put it into a sweetmeat-pan; put it upon a
slow fire ; dry it, taking great care to stir it, till it does
not stick to the fingers; strew the table with sifted
sugar, and roll the pâte upon it; when cold, wrap it
in white paper, and so keep it for use.
Pâte d'Office.
Take a pound of flour, three quarters of a pound of
sugar, butter the size of a walnut, a little salt, a tea-
spoonful of orange-flower water, and two whole eggs;
knead the whole well ; as it must be very firm, gather it
in a mass, and beat it well with the rolling-pin ; if
too firm put in a little white of egg and turn it; use
this paste to make the foundation of rocks, small
houses, huts, &c. &c., and open croquants; take care
to butter lightly the mould for croquants, and bake
them at the mouth of a slow oven.
Genoese Paste. -Pâte à l'Génoise.
Take a pound of flour, three quarters of sugar, and
half a pound of butter; rub lemon on the sugar to get
the zest, and bruise it with the rolling-pin; two eggs,
two yolks, and salt; mix all together; work it well;
gather it together and leave it to repose; give it one
or two turns; cut it in thin bands about the breadth of
an inch, and of an equal length ; turn them into the
* Double or triple refined,


PASTRY,
231
form of an S or horse-shoe, leaves, &c. &c.; arrange
them upon an oven leaf; glaze, and bake them in a
hotter oven than for biscuit ; serve them as little
entremets.
Cake Madeleine.. Gâteau à la Madeleine.
Break ten eggs; keep the whites and yolks separate;
add to the yolks three quarters of a pound of sifted
sugar; a little minced citron and salt: beat the whole
together as for biscuit; put in half a pound of flour,
and mix; add half a pound of clarified butter ; whip
six whites of eggs, till they are firm; mix them lightly
in; butter small moulds à la madeleine or any other;
fill them with the paste; bake them in a slow oven;
they take more baking than biscuit: in default of
small moulds make it a cake in a paper case; cut it
down, and serve.
Tartlets. – Tartelettes à la Chantilly.
Take almond paste; strew the table with fine sifted
sugar, and roll it out, using sugar instead of flour; the
paste for the bottoms of the tartlets must be as thin
as a thick sheet of paper; cut them the ordinary size
of petits pâtés; make the bands of the same paste,
which must be three quarters of an inch broad
and high; wet the edges of the tartlets with the
white of egg a little beaten, and fix on the bands to
give them the form of goblets; take care that the
bands are so nicely put on as not to show the joining;
put them upon
white
paper, and let them dry in the
air; afterwards put them into the mouth of an oven
that they may dry without taking any colour, or very
fill them with whipt cream à la chantilly : season
with sugar and orange-flower water ; in summer they
may be served with strawberries; serve them for little
entremets.
Little Genoeses. Petites Génoises.
Make with almond paste, as indicated above, little
tartlets the size of half a crown; let them be a little
thicker than the chantilly; make a bottom of this paste
nearly the size of the dish they are to be served on;
give this bottom any shape, or one conforming to the
little;


232
FRENCH COOKERY.
design of the tartlets or shape of the dish ; add a
border the same height; put them to dry, and bake as
the above: when ready to serve, fill them with different
coloured sweetmeats.
Ladies' Lips.—Bouchées de Dames.
Take six eggs; put them into a dish with a quarter
of a pound of sifted sugar, and three ounces of potatoe
flour; beat them as for biscuit; then butter a leaf,
upon which spread it lightly; bake it for a quarter of
an hour in a slow oven; when enough cut it with a
round paste cutter the size of half a crown, and glaze
them either white or chocolate: for this purpose, put
into a dish some sugar sifted through a gauze search,
with the white of an egg; beat this with a wooden
spoon, adding by little and little the juice of a lemon,
till it is very white; if the glazing is to be chocolate,
instead of lemon put a sufficiency of chocolate in
powder; with either of these cover the bouchées; dry
them at the mouth of the oven ; dress and serve.
Pistache Cakes. — Gauffres de Pistaches.
Take half a pound of pâte de brioche; wet it with
half a glass of Madeira ; add three ounces of sifted
sugar and two ounces of currants ; spread this upon
buttered oven leaf, about the thickness of half an inch;
bake it a quarter of an hour in a quick oven; cut
it into two inches square; glaze them with sucre au café,
strew them with pistaches cut small; or serve them
without any glazing, which the French call au naturel.
Glazed Biscuits. Génoises glacées à l'Italienne.
Put into a sweetmeat-pan five ounces of sugar ang
five eggs; mix as for biscuit; add a quarter of a pound
of flour, and as many sweet almonds beaten; butter
a leaf, and roll the paste the thickness of a crown
piece; bake it in a quick oven; let it have a fine
colour; when done cut it into any form; clarify a
pound of sugar (au soufflé); put the pan into cold
water, and gather the sugar, having whipt five whites
of eggs, mix them gradually into it; cover the génoises
with this glazing; put them to dry a quarter of an hour
in a stove, and serve.
a


PASTRY.
233
Mirlitons de Rouen.
Take half a pound of puft paste; roll it out as thin
as a shilling; cut it into forms, and put them into
little pans; put into a bason a quarter of a pound
of fine sugar, and an egg; work them; add a
suficient quantity of melted butter; work the whole
in putting in another egg; add a little orange flower,
and fill the moulds with this paste; sift sugar over them,
and bake them in a slow oven; dress and serve them.
Queen's Cake. — Gâteau à la Reine.
• Beat a pound of sweet almonds; add a pound of
sifted sugar, and four whites of eggs by degrees; when
well prepared it may be made into different shapes,
and decorated according to fancy; put it in a slow
oven; glaze it as the génoises.
Mirlitons à la Parisienne.
Put into a bason two eggs and a quarter of a pound
of sugar sifted; whip it and add a little flour and orange
flowers ; have moulds prepared as for the mirlitons of
Rouen ; fill them and finish in the same manner.
Almond Cake.-Gateau d'Amandes.
Beat a pound of almonds ; add a quarter of a pound
of sugar, a little confected orange flowers, and hals
a glass of cream; have puft paste sufficient for a cake;
give it a half turn more; roll it to the thickness
of a crown; cut it round of the proper size; put the
paste on it, and cover it with another round of
puft paste; nick it across ; finish the edge of the
cover, put it into a quick oven ; when baked; sift sugar
over and serve.
Another Almond Cake.—Gâteau Pithivier3.
Prepare the almonds as in the foregoing recipe
add a pound of sifted sugar, a little lemon peel minced.
half a pound of butter; put in by degrees six eggs,
have puft paste as in the above article ; proceed and
finish in the same manner. – It may be made into small
ones.
Orange Cake. — Gateau à la Portugaise.
Take half a pound of beaten almonds ; put in


234
FRENCH COOKERY.
the juice of three oranges with their skins hashed; add
half a pound of sugar, two ounces of potatoe flour, and
six yolks; beat the whites and mix them also ; make a
long paper case; butter, fill, and bake it in a slow oven;
when done, cover it with a glace royale about the
thickness of a shilling ; serve this cake whole, or cut it.
Biscuit manqué.
Put into a basin half a pound of sugar, six yol of
eggs, and a few orange flowers ; beat them well; add
a handful of almonds properly beaten, six ounces of
butter, and four ounces of flour which has been dried and
sifted; whip six whites and add them lightly; make
a paper case, put in the ingredients, and bake it in
an oven heated as for biscuit : while it is in the oven
cut almonds in little dice; put to them about a third of
sugar; wet them with water or the white of an egg
beaten ; when the manqué is three-fourths baked, glaze
and cover it with the almonds ; finish its baking
by making it take a fine colour ; cut it in any form, and
serve it.
Aggyzinas. -Fanchonnettes.
Put in a stewpan two ounces of flour, three of sugar,
some green citron, two yolks of eggs, a whole egg, and
two ounces of beaten almonds; add a pint of milk;
put these ingredients upon
the fire, and make it come
to a cream; have puft paste; roll it out thin; cut
it with a pastecutter the size of crown pieces; put
them into moulds of the same size; put in the cream ;
and
put it into a brisk oven: when three fourths baked,
take them out, meringue them, dust them with sugar,
and put them again into the oven to take a fine co-
lour.
Small Cakes. -Petits Gâteaux Polonais.
Have puft paste sufficient for the quantity wanted,
give it another turn or a turn and half more; roll it thin,
cut it in squares of three inches ; wet them slightly,
take
up the four corners to the centre; dress them on a
leaf; glaze, and put them in the oven: when ready to
serve, put into each a cherry or a little verjuice; they
may be served in gros buisson, or as little entremets.


PASTRY.
235
Cannelons.
Roll out some puft paste ; give it another turn; cut it
in ribbons the breadth of half an inch ; have turned
moulds, upon which you can roll them along, leaving
them a little open at the ends, where they can be fixed;
put them on a leaf; glaze, and put them into the oven;
when nearly done, draw out the moulds; put them
together; powder them with sugar; glaze them in the
oven; fill them with confections ; dress and serve.
Puits d'Amour.
Take puft paste, and roll. it out as above; cut it
with figured paste-cutters of different sizes; cut
them equal in number, the large and small; put the
large upon a leaf; wet them with water, and put on
the small ones; glaze them; and with the point of a
knife, cut them in the middle, the size of a thimble ;
put them into the oven; and when nearly done, pow-
der them with sugar; glaze them, take out the heart,
replace it with sweetmeats, and serve.
Banded Tarts. Petites Tartelettes bandées.
Take tart-pans, and cover them with pâte brisée
very thin; put into them cream pâtissière or any
confection ; roll little bands of paste, and band them
cross, or any other design; cut little bands of paste
wet the edges of the tartlets, and put them round
them; put them in the oven, and when nearly ready,
sift sugar over, glaze, dress, and serve.
Small Lozenge Cakes. Gâteaux en Lozange.
Roll out puft paste, cut it in strips, and then into
lozenges; glaze, and put them into the oven : when
they are baked, glaze them, if convenient, and serve ;
or au naturel.*
Darioles.
Make a bottom of a pâte brisée very thin; cut it
with a paste-cutter, large enough that the paste fall
over the edges of the moulds; give them the form
they ought to have upon the point of a knife ; and put
them in that manner into their moulds, which have
* Without glazing.


PASTRY.
237
of
1
lour, and not trembling; it is a beautiful and good
entremet.
Soufflé de Fécule de Pommes-de-terre.
Put into a saucepan a spoonful of the flour of po-
tatoes with a little water, two spoonfuls and a half of
sugar, and a little salt ; work and dry them as pâte roy-
ale, only a little thinner; let it work, and add six yolks
eggs, and two more, some drops of orange-flower
water, rose, or any other perfume ; mix all well toge-
ther; whip the whites till they are firm, and mix them
in carefully; dress the omelet as a pyramid upon the
dish it is to be served on, and put it in the oven; when
it begins to brown, glaze it with sugar; this omelet may
be made à la vanille, au chocolat, or a la rose; the last
in adding a tint of cochineal.
Riz Soufflé.
Prepare an ounce or two of rice ; let it break in
milk with a little fresh lemon peel; salt the size of a
nut of butter ; wet it by little and little, that it may
be kept firm; add two spoonsful of sugar: when the
rice is broken and reduced, put in the yolks one
after another; put them a little upon the fire, but not
to do too much; whip the whites ; put them in gra-
dually; dress the soufflé upon a dish, and follow the
directions given for soufflé de fécule.
Charlotte of Apples. Charlotte de Pommes au Con.
fitures ou sans Confitures.
Take fifteen fine rennets ; cut them in quarters ; pare
them;
take out the hearts; mince them as fine as
possible; put them into a sweetmeat-pan with sifted
sugar in sufficient quantity, cinnamon, some lemon
peel, and a little water; set it over a quick fire ; stir
them without breaking, and when done let them stick
a little to give them a grilled taste, and put in about
the size of an egg of nice butter : take out the cinna
mon and lemon peel ; take a mould the size proper
for the charlotte ; cut some slices of bread, about the
size of two fingers, and long enough to reach from


238
FRENCH COOKERY.
the centre to the edge of the mould; steep them in
melted butter ; put them into the mould like a fan
brought round ; fill up the mould with the apple mar.
malade : marmalade d'abricots may be added, or any
other confection ; finish the charlotte by covering it
with strips of bread buttered as at the bottom; put it
apon a furnace ; take care it does not burn, and af-
terwards into the oven; when it is well coloured turn
it out upon a dish, and serve.
Buttered Apples.-Pommes au Beurre.
Core twenty apples; pare nine or ten, and make
them nearly ready in a light sugar ; drain them; make
a marmalade of the remainder, as for the charlotte ;
cover a dish with a little of this marmalade, to which
any other may be added ; arrange the apples, and fill
their hearts with butter, and put the remains of the
marmalade to fill up the intervals of the apples;
glaze them with sifted sugar, and put them into the
oven; give them a fine colour. Cherries or any other
preserved fruit may be stuck on the apples, and
serve.
Apples.-Chartreuse de Pommes (Entremets.)
Take a score of rennets ; peel them, and with a
very small corer take off all the pulp about the heart;
when there is enough of those to fill the chartreuse
mould, mince the rest of the apples to make a mar.
malade; equalise all the little apples, or pieces that
have been cut out with the apple-corer ; make a little
saffron water ; put a little sugar to it; throw in a third
of the small apples ; give them a slight boil, take
them off, and drain; do another third in cochineal,
and the last in a syrup of white sugar, with an equal
quantity of angelica as of each of the apples; cover the
mould with white paper ; make any design in the bot-
tom with red, green, yellow, and white; nix them taste-
fully all round the mould to the top, and fill it up
with marmalade, which ought to be firm and without
any void. When ready to serve, turn up the mould


PASTRY.
299
upon the dish, and take off the paper. It the char-
treuse is to be white, throw the apples into water,
as they are formed with lemon juice.
Apples in Rice. Pommes au Riz.
Take nine or ten fine apples; pare ; take out the
hearts, and cook them in a light syrup; scald a quar-
ter of a pound of rice, and break it in milk; in wet-
ting it, little by little, add a small bit of citron, a
little salt, and sufficient sugar ; the rice ought to be
firm; take out the lemon peel, spread the rice upon a
dish, put in the apples, and fill up the intervals with
rice; bake it in the oven till it is of a fine colour, and
serve.
Apples in Apricot-jam. — Pommes à la Polonaise.
Take a score of small rennets; core without break-
ing them ; do not force the apple-scoop but half way
down, and then by the other end : pare and cut them
in slices like halfpennies; cover a dish with apricot
marmalade; then with the apples, and lay on more
marmalade, and so on till it rises into a dome; glaze
it with sifted sugar; put it into an oven; when done,
wipe the edge of the dish, and serve.
Côtelettes en Surprise.
Take some puft paste; roll it out thin; cut it in the
form of hearts, as for cutlets of mutton in papillotes ;
put into that paste marmalade of apricots: solder the
edges; give them the form of cutlets ; put them on a
leaf, and bake them; take a little pàte d'office, cut it
in little bands, as bones of mutton; bake them with-
out their taking any colour, which can be done in the
mouth of the oven; when these cutlets are cooked,
glaze them with the white of an egg, beaten; bruise
some macaroons, and roll them in it; heat a skewer,
and press it across the cutlets, to make them look as
if they had been grilled; fix into them the bones of
the pate d'office : dress these cutlets in a crown on a
dish, and serve; having first melted some red-currant
jelly, which put to the cutlets as if it were gravy.


240
FRENCH COOKERY.
ENTREMETS.
Apple Fritters. —Beignets de Pommes.
Take eight rennets; cut them in quarters; take out
the hearts ; put them to steep in a little brandy, with
the peel of a green lemon, and a bit of whole cinna-
mon: when ready to serve, drain and dip them into a
light paste (pâte à frire); put them into the frying-
pan; when they are of a fine colour, drain them upon a
cloth, put them upon a leaf, and dust sifted sugar over
them; glaze them either in the oven or with a hot
poker; dish, and serve.
Fritters. — Beignets Soufflés.
Put into a saucepan a little water, about the size of
a walnut of butter, salt, and a bit of lemon peel;
put it on the fire, and when ready to boil, take it off,
and add half a quarter of sifted flour; work it well;
put it on the fire, and let it dry till it will no longer
stick to the fingers : change it into another pan; add
three eggs, one after the other; turn the paste upon
the cover ; powder it with flour, and make it of an
equal thickness; heat a frying-pan, and form the frit-
ters with the crooked end of a skimming-spoon; when
chey are all formed, put the pan again on the fire, and
let them take a good colour ; drain them in a colan-
der ; sift sugar over them, and serve.
Blanc-mange Fritters. — Beignets de Blanc-manger.
Put into a stewpan a quarter of a pound of ground
rice, a little salt, a zest of lemon, minced very fine,
two quarts of cream ; let it simmer two hours and a
half or three hours, taking care to stir it often ; when
it is nearly done, add sufficient sugar, massepains in
powder, and a little orange-flower water; when per-
fectly done it ought to be firm; add three eggs, one
after another ; work them into the paste; flour a cover,
and put it upon it, of an equal thickness ; Aour it, and
let it cool; cut it in little squares, and form them into
balls not larger than those used in small arms; when
ready to serve, put them into a colander; heat the
the frying-pan, and put the colander into it, with the


ENTREMETS.
241
fritters, having care to shake it; take it off when the
fritters have a blackish taint; drain, dress, and sift
sugar over them, and serve. — The white of roasted
fowls, minced very fine, may be introduced.
Surprised Fritters. — Beignets de Surprise.
Take eight or ten small rennets, leave their stalks,
and cut them over about a quarter from the stalk, in
the form of a top, and take out the heart with a round-
pointed knife, that they may be kept whole ; pare,
and put them to steep in a little brandy, with some
lemon peel and whole cinnamon ; drain, and fill them
very full with apricot marmalade, or cream pattis-
sière ; mix the yolk of an egg with a little flour; fix
the tops of the apples well on; dip these apples in
pâte à frire, and fry them; glaze and send them to
table.
Apricot Fritters. — Beignets d’Abricots.
Take twelve or fifteen fine apricots, that are not
too ripe ; cut them in two: take out the stone; pare,
and put them into brandy for an hour with a little
water, sugar, and lemon peel; a little before serving
drain them and dip them into pâte à frire; finish and
serve as the foregoing,
Peach Fritters. Beignets de Pêches.
These fritters are made in the same manner as those
of apricots, only being larger they are cut in quarters.
Orange Fritters. —Beignets d'Oranges.
Take off the thin yellow skin that contains the spirit
of the orange, what is called the zest, but leave the
white of as many oranges as will fill the dish; cut
them in quarters, put them in water for half an hour;
drain and take out the seeds: put them into a weak
syrup; make them simmer and reduce them to a sort
of lozenge; take them off the fire, and let them cool;
-fill them with the syrup, and dip them into pâte à frire;
vet with white wine ; finish as the others and serve.
Cherry Fritters. — Beignets de Cérises.
Take wafer paper, and cut it to such a size that
a cherry may be wrapt up in it (a confected one),
M


212
FRENCH COOKERY.
drain the cherries well, wet the paper slightly,
and wrap up every one separately put on another
envelop reversed, and solder them well on all sides;
put them into a search without allowing them to
touch one another, and leave them to dry; have ready
a light pâte à frire into which put brandy, Spanish wine,
and melted butter; dip the cherries in this páte,
drain them with care ; fry them in a pan not very bot;
finish and serve.
Rice Fritters. Beignets ou Croquettes de Riz.
Pick, wash, and blanch a quarter of a pound of rice,
break it with milk by little and little ; season it with
the zest of lemon, hashed fine, five or six massepains
bruised, salt, some orange flower water, and about the
size of a walnut of butter : the rice being broken,
thicken it with the yolks of eggs without allowing it
to boil, pour it upon a leaf, and give it an equal thick.
ness; let it cool; divide into little egual parts; roll
them into balls, dip them into an omelet, roll them in
crumbs, put them on a cover, and just before serving
fry them in a hot pan.
Cream Fritters. — Créme Frite.
Take half a pint of milk, boil it with a little zest of
lemon, and put two eggs into as much flour as they
will take; add four eggs one after the other, and then
the warm milk ; take out the lemon peel and stir all
well till it is smooth; put it on the fire, turn and cook
it as a bouillie. After a quarter of an hour's cooking
add salt, a quarter of a pound of sugar, about an ounce
of butter, and orange flower water: put it for seves
or eight minutes on the fire; then put in four yolks of
eggs, put it on a board you have buttered or floured;
spread it equally about the thickness of the finger, cut
it in lozenges, or with a paste cutter as petits pétés ;
Hour or crumb, and fry them; drain, glaze with sugar
either in the oven or with a hot poker, and serve.
This cream may be made au chocolat in changing
the macaroons,


ENTREMETS.
243
Celery Fritters. — Beignets de Céleri.
Take a dozen of fine heads of celery; clean and cut
off the tops, six inches from the roots ; dress them
without taking them asunder; wash them well and
scald them for about a quarter of an hour; take them
out of the hot water and put them in cold, drain them
and tie them up in four parcels; cover the bottom of a
stewpan with slices of bacon cut thin; put in the
celery; season it with parsley, scallions, salt, and
wet with soup or top pot: cover with slices of bacon
and a round of buttered paper; make them boil, and
leave to simmer till done; drain them and fry them in
butter, as in the foregoing article.
Fritters of Salsify or Scorzonera.---Beignets de Sal-
sifi et de Scorsonère.
Take of one of these a sufficient quantity, and cut
them about three inches long; put in a stew-pan a
little water and vinegar ; throw them in as they are
scraped ; wash and cut them; put upon the fire a pot
with water, salt, vinegar, and a bit of butter rubbed
in flour; when they are done enough drain and
marinade them in salt, pepper, and vinegar; when
ready to serve, follow the directions given for other
fritters.
White Coffee Cream. Crême au Café Blanc.
Take a pint and a half of cream; add to it the zest
of a lemon and some sugar; roast two ounces off
coffee; throw it into your boiling cream ; cover, and
let it infuse for half an hour; take out the coffee ; put
into a search three inner skins of gizzards; dry and
bruised; when half cold put the cream three times
through the search, bruising at the same time with the
back of a wooden spoon the gizzards ; that done, fill
the cream quickly into pots, having care to stir it;
put them into hot water; leave them to take in the
bain-marie without allowing it to boil; put a cover on
the pot and lay fire upon it; when it has taken, take
out the pots, and put them into cold water without
covering them: when ready wipe, and serve.
M 2


244
FRENCH COOKERY.
Chocolate Cream. Crême au Chocolat.
Take two or three squares of chocolate ; boil a pint
and a half of cream ; put in nearly two ounces of su-
gar, reduce it to two-thirds ; melt the chocolate over
the fire in a little water; mix it with the cream; pass
it through a search a little colder than that au café
blanc, and in every respect follow the same proceed-
ing.
Orange-flower Cream. — Crême à la Fleurs d'O .
range.
Reduce a pint and half of cream; put in some con-
fected orange-flowers, and a sufficient quantity of su-
gar; put it through a search with the gizzards, as
indicated above; finish in the same manner and serve.
Instead of orange-flower, it may be made of vanille
by boiling it in the cream.
Almond Cream.-
Créme Vierge.
Take two ounces of sweet almonds, and one or two
bitter ; beat them as for almond paste, only using
water; reduce a pint and a half of cream one-third; put
the almonds into a search, and the cream over them;
pass it twice through, keeping back the almonds;
sugar it, and pass it over the gizzards, as directed in
the three foregoing articles, and finish in the same
manner.
Coffee Cream without Gizzards.
Créme au Café
sans Gésier.
Proceed for this cream as for café blanc, except
thickening it with six yolks of eggs instead of giz-
zards, and make it take with boiling water, and fire
over, whether it is put in a dish or little pots; and pro-
ceed in the same manner with all the creams with-
out gizzards.
Eggs in White Coffee. - Eufs au Café Blanc.
Reduce a chopine of cream ; toast two ounces of
coffee; throw it in, and leave it to infuse for half an
hour; run the cream through a search, to take out


ENTREMETS.
245
the coffee ; sweeten it; add three yolks of eggs, and
two whole; mix all well together; pass it through a
search, and stir it; butter some small moulds, such
as those à la Madeleine or Darioles; let them drain
and cool; boil some water in a stewpan; take it off
the fire, and put in the moulds after it has been stir-
red; when they have properly taken, turn them with
care out upon a dish. Have ready hot a dish of good
café à l'éau; sweeten it, put it in the dish for sauce,
and serve.
Eggs in Tec. Eufs au The.
Infuse in a little boiling water some good tea; re-
duce a quart of cream to half; put in the tea, three
yolks of
very
fresh
eggs, and two whole, with suffi-
cient sugar; shake, stir, and wring them through a
tammy; stir them again, and fill the moulds, as in the
preceding article: when enough, turn them out of
the moulds, sauce them with thickened cream; take
for that purpose two or three spoonfuls of cream;
sweeten and thicken it with the yolk of an egg,
without letting it boil, and sauce them.
Eggs in Gravy. — Eufs au Bouillon.
Put into a stewpan four yolks of fresh eggs, and two
whole ones, with six spoonsful of good stock; mix all
well together, and pass it through a search; butter the
moulds as indicated before, make them take in the
hot water, turn them out, and sauce them with gravy;
or serve the eggs in little pots, as the cream.
Eggs en Fumet. Eufs au Fumet de Gibier.
Follow the directions given in the last article, ex-
cept that instead of bouillon, you use fumet de gibier.
(See art. Fumet de Gibier.)
Surprised Eggs. — Eufs en Surprise.
Take twelve eggs, make a small hole at both ends
of each; put into one of these holes a straw to break
the yolks ; empty the eggs by blowing in at one end;
put the shells into water, rince and clean them; put
Coffee without cream or milk,
M 3


246
FRENCH COOKERY.
them to dry into the air, work a little four with yolk to
fill up one of the holes in each shell; when filled up,
let them dry, and fill six with chocolate cream, into
which, instead of gizzards, put yolks of eggs: for this
purpose use a very small" funnel ; fill the other six
shells with any other cream of a different colour; au
café blanc, à la fleure d'orange, ou de vierge, all of
which thickened with yolks of eggs : seal up the holes;
cook them in hot water without letting them boil;
take off the paste from both ends of these eggs, wipe
them, and serve them in a folded napkin for entre-
mets.
Eggs in Snow. —Eufs à la Neige.
Take a pint and half of cream, or of milk, reduce
it; put in a little salt, three ounces of sugar, and the
zest of a lemon, with a little orange-flower water; take
six whites of eggs, and whip them well; put in a little
salt, an ounce of sugar, and some drops of orange-
flower-water; mix them well together with a whisk;
take a spoonful of these whites in a ragoût spoon;
poach them in the cream ; turn them that they may be
equally done; when enough, take them out and put
them upon a search ; arrange them as if they were
poached eggs; dilute four yolks with a little cream
which has cooled; thicken it over the fire without
letting it boil, stirring it constantly; pass it through
a search kept for creams ; sauce, and send up.
Eggs in Sunshine. Eufs à l'Aurore.
Boil a dozen of eggs hard, and let them cool ; shell
them and cut them in two; take out the yolks, and put
them in the mortar, add a quarter of a pound of nice
butter, salt, nutmeg, fine spices, and three raw
yolks ; beat the whole well, as if it was a farce ;
mince the whites, and put them in a hot bécha-
melle reduced, whether grasse or maigre; toss them
without letting them boil; let them have a consistence;
dress them upon the dish they are to be served on;
take the yolks out of the mortar, put them
upon
the
bottom of a large search; put this search over the
4


ENTREMETS.
247
dish, and pass them through equally upon it: do it
with a wooden spoon; when that is done, garnish it
with corks of bread dipt in omelet; put it into the
oven ; make it take an aurora colour: wipe the dish,
and serve.
Eggs. — Eufs à la Polonaise.
Prepare the eggs as in the foregoing article, and
when the farce is made, put in a little parsley, hashed
fine; mix in two or three whites of eggs whipt; take
the dish that they are to be served on, and spread a
little of the farce upon it; then fill the whites with the
farce, and give them the form of an entire egg;
dress
them handsomely upon the dish, glaze, put them in
the oven, and when they are of a fine colour, wipe the
dish, and serve.
Eggs. Eufs à la Tripe.
Take six large onions; skin, wash, and take out the
hearts ; cut them in rounds; put them into a stewpan,
with a little bit of very nice butter, on a slow fire, do
not brown them, let them simmer: when done enough
flour them ; put in a little milk or cream, let them
cook and reduce; season with salt, pepper, and grated
nutmeg; when ready to serve, cut a dozen of hard
eggs in rounds, put them into the pluche d'oignons, mix
all well together without breaking them, or letting
them boil ; put in a little more butter, and, if liked, a
little fine hashed parsley ; arrange it, and send it to
table.
Eggs.
Eufs à la Béchamelle.
Put into a saucepan four or five spoonsful of bécha-
melle, grasse or maigre, and fifteen hard eggs, as is di-
rected in the before-mentioned article; let the bécha-
melle be very hot, without letting it boil; finish with
a bit of butter and nutmeg; taste if properly sea-
soned; arrange, and garnish it with corks of bread
fried in butter,
Eufs à la Sauce Robert.
Arrange six large onions, as is directed for eggs à la
Eggs.
M 4


248
FRENCH COOKERY.
put in a
tripe, but instead of frying them white in butter,
they are to be browned upon a quick fire; flour them,
and
little soup or water ; season them with
salt and pepper, and let it thicken; when ready 10,
serve cut in rounds a dozen of hard eggs; put them
into the sauce; mix them well; add a table spoonful
of mustard, dish and send them to table.
Poached Eggs in Gravy. – Eufs Pochés au Jus.
Put into a stewpan a pint of water, a glass of
white vinegar, and a little salt; boil it, and put it
aside; take twelve fresh eggs, break six, one after
the other, on the side of the pan, and let them fall as
whole as possible into the water ; leave them a mo-
ment without touching them, to give them time to
take; when they have taken give them a light boil;
take out the first one that was put in, and if enough
done, put it into cold water, and continue till you
have put in the whole; when they are cooled a little,
pare them and return them into the water, and when
you wish to serve them, heat them with care ; take them
out with a pierced spoon ; drain them on a cloth;
sauce them with a nice (bon blond de veau reduit);
put upon
each
little
pepper
Poached Eggs for all sorts of Ragoûts, such as Sorrel,
Spinnage, Chicoroy, Cucumbers, Purée of Peas,
Lentils, Love-apple Sauce, and Ravigotes.
Prepare eggs as in the above article, to be served
in these different ragouts and sauces, which will be
found in their proper places. (See articles Sauces,
Ragoûts, and Garnitures.)
Eggs in Black Butter. - Eufs en Beurre Noire. .
Break twelve eggs into a dish without breaking the
yolks, and season them with salt ; put into a frying-
pan with a short handle, commonly called the devil,
a large quarter of a pound of butter; brown it with
out letting it burn; skim it, and pour it off clear into
another vessel ; wipe the pan and return the butter
into it ; heat it, and baste the eggs; slip them care-
egg a
and serve.


ENTREMETS.
249
;
fully into the pan, and set them over red cinders,
holding a red hot poker over them; when enough,
slide them upon a dish; put a little vinegar into the
pan, let it boil,
pour it over, and serve.
Eggs in a Mirror.- Eufs sur le Plat, dit au Miroir.
Spread a little butter upon the dish, and strew
over a little salt; break the into it without
breaking the yolks; baste them with milk or cream,
and put a few bits of butter over them season with
salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; set it upon hot cinders ;
hold a hot poker over, but let the yolks remain soft;
wipe the dish and serve.
Eggs in Moon-shine, six different Ways. —- Eufs
Brouillés, en six Manières.
Break twelve fresh eggs, and keep back six of the
whites ; beat the eggs; put a search over a sauce-
pan, and pass them through;
them through; season them with salt,
nutmeg, a little stock or soup, and a bit of
butter, the size of an egg; with pepper, or not;
put them upon a slow fire, and stir them with a
wooden spoon or a whisk. When they begin to take,
remove them from the furnace, and work them well;
put them again on the fire till they are done, but
do not do them too much ; put in about the size
of a walnut of butter ; dress them on a cold plate ;
garnish them with fried bread : first, employ the
same manner to make eggs brouillés aux truffles, by
putting in minced truffles that have been cooked in
butter, and a little espagnole instead of soup: second,
for mushrooms also they must be hashed and cooked
in butter : third, the points of asparagus cooked:
fourth, grated cheese, Gruyère or Parmesan to be
strewed in when the eggs are put a second time on
the fire: fifth, with ham, which must be also cooked
and hashed very small : sixth, cardoons ought to be
simmered and cut in small dice.
Plain Omelet. Omelette au Naturel.
Break twelve eggs into a basin; add salt, and a lit-
M5


250
FRENCH COOKERY.
tle water; beat the eggs with a whisk or two forks ;
they must be well beaten ; put into a frying-pan, the
size of an egg of butter ; melt it without browning;
pour in the omelet, continuing to beat it; put it on a
clear quick fire; beat principally the side next the
handle; shake the omelet well, and do not let it burn;
when it is nearly done, slip under it a bit of butter the
size of a walnut; when melted, roll it over, to see if it is
of a good colour; turn it out on a dish, and serve. · If
it is to be seasoned. with herbs; put in parsley and
small onions hashed fine, and a little pepper.
Omelet à l’Aggyzina. Omelette à la Célestine.
Make four omelets each of three eggs, the thinnest
possible : slide them upon a table, and cover two of
them with confections, and the other two with frangi-
pain : roll them up, dress them upon a dish, dust
them with sugar; glaze them with a hot poker and
serve.
Omelet with Preserves. Omelette au Confitures.
Make an omelette au naturel of nine fresh eggs; when
it is done, cover it with some preserve and roll it up;
put it upon a dish, strew sugar over; heat a skewer,
mark it in squares and serve.
Omelet of Veal Kidney.-- Omelette au Rognon de
Veau.
Take a veal kidney that has been roasted, have a
little fat with it, cut it in small dice, or slices; put it
in a stewpan with a little fine herbs hashed with salt
and pepper; set it over the fire, put into it two spoons-
ful of Espagnole reduite ; boil the ragoût: make an
'omelette au naturel of a dozen eggs: before taking the
omelet out of the fryingpan, put the ragoût upon it;
roll it round, dress it upon a dish, and serve. It may
be sauced with a reduced espagnole.
Omelet of Mushrooms.-- Omelette aux Champignons.
This omelet is made as the former one, except that
mushrooms are used instead of kidneys; mince and do
them in butter, and finish them exactly as the kidney.


ENTREMETS.
251
Omelet with Sorrel. Omelette à l'Oseille.
Make an omelette au naturel, and put into it a purée
of sorrel.
Omelet with Bacon. -Omelette au Lard.
Take half a pound of thin lard, cut off the skin and
cut it in dice, put it into hot water : to infresh it a.
little, put a bit of butter into the pan with the lard, and
let it brown; beat a dozen of fresh eggs, add some
pepper, and very little salt; pour it in upon the bacon,
mix it well, and take care it does not burn: when ready
roll it; give it a fine colour, and serve.
Omelet with Truffle.-- Omelette aux Truffes.
Make an omelette au naturel, and put in a ragoût of
truffles very nicely done.
Pancakes.- Panequets.
Put into a dish' two spoonsful of flour, three yolks,
and two entire eggs, a little salt, and some orange
flower-water; add as much milk as will make it clear;
take a small round fryingpan, heat and wipe it, put a
bit of butter in several folds of paper, like a little bag,
and rub it with it: put a large spoonful of paste, and
turn it round in the pan so that it may cover it en-
tirely of the same thickness ; when it is done turn it out
upon a dish, sift sugar over it, and so continue in the
same manner till the paste is finished.
Orange Jelly.—Jelée d'Orange.
Take the proper quantity of isinglass, beat it in a
cloth and pull it in pieces; take a very small sauce-
pan, well tinned, put into it on the fire a gill of
water; let it boil, then cover it, and leave it on the
side of the stove till it is reduced one-half: clarify half
a pound of sugar, bring it au petit perle; take nine or
ten middling sized oranges; if in the beginning of the
season they will be acid enough, but if in the end, add
the juice of two lemons ; take off the zest as thin as
possible of three oranges, put it to infuse in the sugar,
cover
it
up, cut the oranges, put a double tammy over
a bason, squeeze the fruit over it, and express the
juice, mix it with the sugar: if the isinglass is ready,
M 6


252
FRENCH COOKERY.
it will stick between the fingers strongly: mix it with
the oranges, and shake it all well together: pass it a
little warm through a tammy which has been well
washed, and wrung in a cloth; beat three pounds of
ice, and put it into a convenient cover that will hold
seven or nine small pots in it, having first powdered it
with great salt; fill them with the jelly, taking care to
stir them; cover them with a sheet of
paper and leave
them to take; when ready, take them up, wipe and
dish them : the jelly should not be too firm ; it ought
to be delicate and shaking : if it is wanted to turn out
of the mould, as an aspic, more isinglass must be put
in: you may also use the skins of the oranges instead
of cups or pots for the jelly, after they have been
properly prepared. In that case care must be taken
to have no salt in the ice.
Lemon Jelly. - Gelée de Citron.
The same procedure as above, only a little more
sugar.
Jelly of Red Fruits.
Gelée de Fruits Rouges.
Take a pound of red currants, and a handful of
raspberries; pick them, set them to fall in a sweet-
meat-pan, with a little water ; when done, throw them
into a search to pass the juice; clarify the juice, by
passing it through a bag till it clears, as directed
above;
; put isinglass sufficient, and reduce the jelly in
the same manner as for the orange; mix all together,
and finish it as the orange jelly.
Jelly of Orange-flowers and Champagne. — Gelée de
Fleurs d'Orange au Vin de Champagne.
Take a handful of orange flowers; take out the
hearts, and put the leaves in fresh water; put water
upon the fire; throw in the flowers, and give them one
boil; drain them, and put them into syrup (au petit perle);
when done enough, and nearly cold, add five or six
small pots or glasses of Champagne, and as much isin-
glass as is prescribed for the orange jelly, and the juice
of two lenions; mix all together, and pass it through a


ENTREMETS.
253
double tammy; shake it well; arrange little pots or
cups as before directed, make them take and serve.
Jelly of Pine Apples. Gelée d'Ananas.
Take one or two small pine apples; pare, cut them
in thin slices ; put them in a vessel ; pour over them
a little boiling water ; leave them to infuse an hour ;
put the juice through a new gauze search, or what
has been used only for sugar; have isinglass ready,
and sugar (au petit perlé); add the juice of two lemons ;
pass the whole through a double tammy, and finish
as in the foregoing articles for jellies.
Pine Jelly in the Pine Apple. Gelée d'Ananas dans
l Ananas même.
Take a beautiful pine apple; cut off the crown an
inch below, and leave the stalk an inch and half long;
take out the pulp by the top, taking care neither to
cut nor hurt the skin, nor its appearance; use a silver
knife and spoon;
take out the whole apple, prepare it
exactly as in the above article: fill the pine-apple
with the jelly, and make it take in the ice without salt,
as it would spoil its appearance; make a cake à la Ma-
deleine, of the thickness of two or three inches, or any
other cakes the size of the dish d'entremets ; let it cool;
when ready to serve, cut out a piece from the mid-
dle, and place the pine-apple in it; cover it with its
crown, and serve.
Jelly of Marasquin. — Gelée de Marasquin.
Prepare every thing as before directed; it requires,
instead of half a pound of sugar, a quart and a half
au perlé, five little pots of marasquin, and one of
kirchwaser*; pass them all through a tammy, fill and
make the little pots take, and serve.
Jelly of Rum, and others. — Gelée au Rum et aux Vins.
Prepare the materials with half a pound of sugar,
and five little pots of rum, the juice of two lemons,
and finish as before. Follow the same procedure with
jellies ; Madeira, Malaga, Muscat, and all other sorts
of wines and liquors that are made into jelly; the
* Kirchwaser, or cherry-water, an ardent spirit, made from
cherries.


254
FRENCH COOKERY.
only difference is, that there is more or less sugar
necessary, and to add the juice of a lemon when
it is requisite. In this manner, make any jelly, whe-
ther of fruit or flowers; by infusing them as is an-
nounced in the receipts given for jellies in general.
Mons. Beauvilliers says, it has always answered very
well with him.
Blanc-Manger.
Take two calves feet, cleave them in two ; take
out the large bones ; steep and blanch ; put them in
a pot with three quarts of water; make them boil;
skim them; leave them to cook two or three hours;
take off the fat, and pass the stock through a wet
cloth; take a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds,
and two bitter, well beaten ; put in a pan six ounces
of sugar, a little water, half a zest of lemon, and a
good pinch of coriander seed: leave all to infuse
half an hour; take out the coriander and lemon, mix
the
sugar with the almonds, put them several times
through a cloth ; add as much as is necessary of the
stock, which ought to be as delicate as possible.
This can be ascertained by trying a little: when it is
sufficiently firm and of a good taste, pour it into little
pots, a mould, or skins of lemons or oranges, putting
no salt into the ice for the two last. Blancmanger,
and all other jellies, may be made with fish stock,
hartshorn shavings, the feet of poultry, skins, and
Iceland moss.
Peas for the Second Course. —Pois d'Entremets à la
Francaise.
Take a pint of very fine peas; put them in a vessel
with the size of a walnut of butter ; rub and mix them
well with the hands, pour water over them, leave them
a few minutes to become tender; drain and put them
into a stewpan, sweat them, shaking them often ; when
they are very green, add parsley and scallions at
will; cover them, and put them upon a very slow
fire, or upon the grate of a furnace; toss them from
time to time; when enough, mix a pat of butter with


ENTREMETS.
255
If any
half a spoonful of flour and a spoonful of rasped
cheese; add these with a knob of sugar to the peas,
set them again on the furnace, and let the four be
enough done; dress them high upon the dish ; if they
are too thick put in a little water, and serve.
of the ingredients are disliked, they can be kept out.
Peas with Ham or Bacon.-Pois au Lard ou au
Jambon.
See article Ragouts, and follow that direction.
French Beans. Haricots verts à la Poulette.
Take the haricots necessary to make a dish d'entre-
mets, choose them small and tender; clean them, and
take out the fibres or threads, and throw them into
fresh water; if any are larger cut them to the general
size of the whole; put them upon a strong fire, in a
pot or stewpan, with a quantity of water, and a hand-
ful of salt; let them be well done and very green; re-
fresh drain, and put them into a stewpan with a bit of
butter; cut onions in little dice, do them white in
butter, dust in a little flower, let them cook a little
without browning; add a spoonful of soup; mix it
well with hashed parsley and scallions; salt and pep-
per ; when done enough put in the haricots; give
them a boil; thicken the sauce with two or three
yolks of eggs; finish with the juice of a lemon and a
pat of butter.
French Beans another Way.Haricots verts à la
Bretonne.
Cut in small dice one or two onions ; put them in a
stewpan with a little butter; set them upon a furnace ;
let them cook, and when they begin to brown put in a
little espagnole ; flour them; give them and the flour
a fine brown colour : if espagnole is not used, put in a
spoonful of soup, season it with salt and pepper; re-
duce this sauce; put in the haricots which have been
already cooked; let them simmer till all is done
enough; dish, and serve.
• Is to throw them into cold water.


256
FRENCH COOKERY.
Kidney Beans another Way.Haricots verts à la
Lyonnaise.
Cut one or two onions in half rings, and put them
into a fryingpan with oil; when they begin to brown,
put in the haricots which have been cooked ; let them
fry with the onions ; put in hashed parsley, scallions,
salt and pepper; give a turn or two more, and dish:
boil a little vinegar
in the
pan,
and
pour over them.
Kidney Beans in Salad.—Haricots verts en Salade.
Take haricots already cooked, put them in a salad-
dish; garnish them with strips of anchovy, onions,
roasted in the ashes, beet root, or any thing properly
hashed ; season with salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar,
and serve.
Cauliflower with Butter Sauce. Chouxfleurs, Sauce
au Beurre.
Take two heads of cauliflowers; arrange
leave
not the smallest leaf; throw them into fresh water; wash
them well; take care there are no small worms; put
them into a pot with a little salt, worked butter, and
juice of lemon; put a round of buttered paper, and
set them to simmer upon the corner of the furnace,
stove or grate; take care not to do them too much;
drain, and dish them; pour over them a sauce au
beurre, and serve them, with a sauce-boat of the
them;
same sauce.
Cauliflower in Gravy. —Choufleur au Jus.
Having cauliflowers ready prepared, put into a
saucepan a half sauce blanche, and a half espagnole,
with a bit of portable soup or reduction, and some nut-
meg; shake and finish the sauce ; dish and sauce it as
above: to heighten the taste, when they are three-
fourths cooked, they might be put into the sauce to
simmer: dress and serve in the same manner.
. Cauliflowers with Parmesan. — Chouxfleurs au Par-
Having your cauliflowers ready, put into a stewpan
a sauce au beurre, and a handful or two of rasped Par-
mesan; mix it well with the sauce; put some into the
mesan.


258
FRENCH COOKERY.
Artichokes another Way. Autre Manière d' Arti-
chauts à la Bariguole.
Take three artichokes, prepare them and blanch
them enough to be able to take out the choke, which
may be done with a spoon; put some oil into a frying
pan; heat it; put them in upon the leaves, not the
bottom; let them take a fine colour; drain them and
put them into a stewpan; season them as the fore-
going, and finish them in the same way
Artichokes another Way.-- Artichauts à l'Italienne.
Take three raw artichokes ; cut them in four or six
equal parts ; take out the choke with a knife, dress
and cut the points, wash them; spread a little butter
in a stewpan, arrange them in it; put in the juice of a
lemon, a glass of white wine, and a little soup; make
them boil, and let them simmer; drain, dress, and
sauce them with an Italienne blanche, and serve.
Artichokes Fried. - Artichauts Frits.
Take three young artichokes, dress them as the
foregoing, only leave fewer leaves, and cut them in
little bits, wash them in water and vinegar; put them
in a deep dish with salt, pepper, two or three eggs,
å small quantity of vinegar, a handful of Aour, and a
spoonful of fine oil; mix them that they may be well
incorporated with the paste ; heat a fryingpan, take it
off the fire, put in the artichokes, the one after the
other ; take care they do not mix; turn them, and put
them upon the fire; let them cook, shaking them often;
when done and of a fine colour, drain; have parsley
ready, put it in a colander, into the frying pan, turn it
with the point of a skewer; as soon as it dries take it
out, drain it upon a cloth; dress the artichokes with
parsley under and over, and serve.
Artichokes braised. -Artichauts braisés.
Take three or four artichokes; dress, wash, and
and blanch them; take out the chokes; cover a stew-
pan with slices of bacon, veal, ham, and sweet herbs,
put in the artichokes, with a little stock; put a round


ENTREMETS.
259
of paper over them, let them boil, and leave them to
finish over a slow fire: when enough, drain, dish;
sauce with an espagnole reduced, a bit of butter, the
juice of a lemon, and serve.
Artichoke Bottoms with Rarigote Sauce. -Culs d'Ar-
tichauts à la Ravigote.
Prepare the bottoms as in article Garnitures, that
they may be very white; put a cold rarigote into
a dish; dress the bottoms, and serve. Bottoms of ar-
tichokes may be used in all sauces, such as the Italienne,
espagnole, sauce au beurre, &c. &c.
Artichokes in White Italienne. -- Artichauts à la Bre-
tonne.
Take four artichokes, cut them in six, and prepare
them as the others; boil some water, and throw them
in for two minutes ; refresh them in cold water, drain
upon a cloth, put them into a saucepan with clarified
butter; make it boil and let it simmer; when enough,
drain, dress, and glaze them; sauce with a light Italienne
blanche.
Asparagus in Butter--Asperges au Beurre.
Take some nice asparagus; clean them and cut off
the points ; scrape them and throw them into water;
make them into little parcels; cut them equal, and
throw them into boiling water and salt, a quarter of an
hour is sufficient; drain and dress, when ready to serve,
send them to table with butter sauce in a boat.
Asparagus in Gravy.- Asperges au Jus.
Prepare and cook your asparagus, as in the fore-
going article ; dress them the same within, across one
another, or in bunches, and serve them in a dish full
of sauce half espagnole and half au beurre, properly
prepared.
Asparagus as small Peas. — Asperges aux petits Pois.
Take a bundle of asparagus, dite aus petits pois; cut
off the points, which may be employed for soups or
garnishings; cut them then together the size of little
peas, take care to cut none but such as are tender ;


260
FRENCH COOKERY.
au roux.
throw them into water; when all cut, set them on
the fire to blanch in a great deal of water, with a
small handful of salt; drain them; put a bit of butter
into a stewpan, put them in with a bunch of parsley
and small onions; flour, a little water, salt, pepper,
and half a spoonful of sugar; let them simmer and
reduce; when done, draw them to the side of the
furnace; thicken with yolks of eggs; put them an
instant on the fire, and toss them; taste if they are
properly seasoned, and serve. The sauce ought to be
thick, and they may be dressed en rocher or high
upon
the dish.
Asparagus as small Peas.-Asperges aux petits Pois
Prepare asparagus as above, put them in a stewpan
with a bit of butter, the size of an egg, with some
parsley and scallions; toss them; when they are com-
pletely tossed and heated, add three or four spoonsful
of espagnoles ; let it reduce and take off the fat; press
out the sweet herbs; finish with a small pat of butter,
dress, and serve.
Small Beans.— Fèves de Marais.
Take a sufficient quantity of small beans newly
shelled, and put them upon the fire with a great deal
of salt and water ; drain them; put them into a stew.
pan with a little butter; toss, flour, and add a little
water; or, instead of it, put in three or four spoonsful
of sauce tournée. Should they not be used immediately,
put them into fresh water, season with salt, pepper, a
little savory hashed, and half a spoonful of rasped
sugar; let them simmer and reduce, thicken with
three yolks of eggs, and a little cream or milk; dress
them as a rock and serve.
Small Beans in Gravy. -Fèves de Marais au Jus.
Blanch and cook the beans as in the foregoing arti-
cle; put a bit of butter in a stewpan, with parsley and
scallions; toss them well in the butter; add three
spoonsful of espagnole; let them simmer; take off the
fat; reduce them; dish, and serve.


ENTREMETS.
261
of half an egg;
White Kidney Beans. — Haricots blancs à la Maître-
d'Hôtel.
Take as many ripe white kidney beans as is neces-
sary, newly shelled; pick, clean, and put them in a
stewpan with fresh water, and a bit of butter the size
let them boil; skim, and put them upon
the side of the furnace to simmer; when half done,
add a little fresh water; let them cook, and when
enough, put into a stewpan three quarters of a
pound of butter, with hashed parsley, scallions, salt,
and
pepper; drain; put them into the sauce; toss
them; if they do not thicken, put in a little water;
finish with some verjuice or juice of lemon, and serve.
If in season, put the verjuice in whole, which must be
blanched.
White French Beans in Gravy.—Haricots au Jus.
See article Ragoûts.
French Beans, or Haricots à la Bretonne.
See article Ragoûts.
Stuffed Cucumbers. Concombres Farcis.
Take three or four cucumbers; pare or trim them
with care; take off the end at the stalk, take out the
seeds and heart with a large larding pin, put them into
water, with a gill of vinegar; rince them well, 'and
blanch them two or three minutes in quick boiling
water; refresh and drain them ; stuff them with farce
cuite of fowl; take a stewpan, from which they can
be taken without breaking; cover it with slices of
bacon; put in the cucumbers; season them with salt,
parsley, scallions, a glass of white wine, half a bay
leaf, and two cloves; add a spoonful of top-pot; cover
them with a round of paper; let them boil, and set
them to simmer upon hot cinders; when done, drain,
dish, glaze, sauce with an espagnole reduced, and
serve.
Cucumbers in Gravy. -Concombres au Jus.
See the article Concombers au Brun.


262
FRENCH COOKERY.
Drest Cucumbers. Concombres à la Poulette.
Prepare these cucumbers as cucumbers au blanc.
Article Ragoûts. When well blanched put them in a
stewpan with a bit of butter; flour; toss, and put in
a little water, salt, and pepper ; reduce, and let them
simmer: at the moment they are to be served, put in
a little m nced parsley and rasped nutmeg; thicken
them with the yolks of eggs and cream : cook these
ingredients without allowing them to boil; dish, and
serve.
Cucumbers another Way.— Concombres à la Béa
chamelle.
Having the cucumbers prepared put them into a
stewpan with a béchamelle grasse or maigre; simmer
and reduce ; when ready to serve put in a bit of fresh
butter and a little nutmeg ; toss, and serve.
Spanish Cardoons. — Cardons d'Espagne, à la Moëlle
et à l'Espagnole.
Take two or three heads, cut them near the bot-
toms; only use the solid part; cut those that are
full and entire equally about five or six inches long;
pare the edges and blanch them till they are in a
state to be peeled ; refresh, peel, and throw them
again into fresh water; put them in a blanc with two
lemons in slices, from which the peel and seeds have
been taken: see Blanc in the article Sauce : make them
boil; cover them with a round of buttered paper ; put
them to simmer upon a paillasse three or four hours;
when done, drain and put them into a stewpan with a
little stock; make them simmer, and nearly fall into
jelly; dress and sauce them with a good reduced
espagnole, to which has been added a pat of butter
and a small bit of portable soup; garnish with small
sippets fried in butter, covered with marrow, and
serve.
With respect to the tops of the cardoons, take off the
skin, and pare them as a great carrot; blanch and
cook them with the cardoons, and use them with them;
or to garnish entrées, as well as in eggs brouillées.


ENTREMETS.
265
put it into a stewpan with sufficient butter, a bay
leaf, an onion, two cloves stuck in it, salt and pep-
per; make them boil; turn them that they mix with
the butter ; put them upon the paillasse with a slow
fire over and under; let them simmer three or four
hours; turn them from time to time, and take care
that they do not burn: when they are done, take out
the bay leaf and onion; finish them with a little bit of
butter, and serve.
Carrots. Carottes à la Flamande.
Turn these carrots as in the article Garniture; blanch,
drain, cook them in water, with a little butter and
salt; when enough, drain and set them again upon the
fire, with a good piece of butter, parsley, hashed scal-
lions, salt, and pepper; toss them as you do haricots,
à la maître-d'hôtel: do not let them boil ; dress and
C
serve.
Carrots another Way. Carottes à l'Orléans.
Take six or eight fine carrots; scrape, wash, and
cut them the length of two or three inches; take out
the heart; cut the top in sprigs of equal thickness ;
blanch, refresh, drain, and put them in a stewpan with
a piece of butter, a little sugar, salt, and pepper, with
as much stock as will make them swim; let it come
to a jelly, and finish it with a spoonful of velouté, a
little butter, and some parsley, blanched and minced.
Small Roots.--Petites Racines.
See every thing concerning them at their articles,
Garnitures or Ragoûts.
Mushrooms in Crust. Croûtes aux Champignons.
Turn and prepare the mushrooms as is indicated at
article Garnitures; put them in a stewpan, with a bit
of butter, and a bunch of parsley and scallions, and
put them on a furnace; toss, flour, and add a little
good soup; make them boil, and let them simmer ;
season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; take the top
crusts of rasped rolls; butter them inside and out; put
them on a gridiron, over red cinders, and let them dry
N


266
FRENCH COOKERY.
and brown: when ready to serve, take out the herbs,
thicken with yolks
of
eggs,
mixed with a little cream;
put a little of the sauce into the crusts ; put them on a
dish; put in the ragoût, and serve: the crusts may be
any size.
dish;
Mushrooms another Way. Champignons à la Bor.
delaise.
Take large mushrooms, let them be thick and firm;
take off the skin lightly, and cut them in lozenges
slightly on the under side ; put them in an earthen
baste them with fine oil ; strew salt and pepper
over them, and let them marinade* an hour or two;
grill them on both sides; when they are flexible, they
are enough ; dress them on a dish, and send them to
table with the following sauces : Put into a stewpan
sufficient quantity of oil to sauce them, with parsley
and scallions hashed very fine, and a clove of garlic;
heat the whole; pour it over with the juice of one or
two lemons, or a little verjuice, which is better; and
serve.
Mushrooms another Way. Champignons à la Bor-
delaise sur la Tourtière.
Prepare them as above, only add a little garlic with
the oil, salt, and pepper they are marinaded in; mince
the stalks and parings ; press them in a cloth to take
out the water; put them in a stewpan with salt,
pepper, parsley, scallions, and garlic, hashed ; pass
these fine herbs for a moment over the fire, lay the
mushrooms upon a tart-pan, putting into each a little
fine herbs ; put them into the oven ; when enough,
dress ; sauce with their own sauce ; squeeze over them
the juice of one or two lemons, or a little verjuice, and
serve,
Mushrooms another Way. Champignons à la
Tourtière.
Prepare them as for the Bordelaise; put them in a
tartpan; season them with salt and pepper ; do the
* Marinade is to pickle.


268
FRENCH COOKERY.
bacon; make a second layer of paste; cover it in such
á manner as to leave an open space under ; make another
cover of puffed paste, and lay it upon the second;
after it has been wet, glaze, and put it in the oven;
it will take an hour or an hour and quarter: let it have
a fine colour, and serve it without opening.
Truffes à la Cendre.
Prepare the truffles, in the manner directed au vin
de Champagne ; take as many slices of bacon as truf-
fles; wrap each truffle in one; cover it with white
paper, after having seasoned them with salt, and pep-
per; wrapt up each in four papers in such a man-
ner as shall prevent them from losing their sea-
soning: an hour before serving, dip each lightly in
fresh water, and put them under red cinders, as ches-
nuts are done ; when they are done, take off the two
outer papers, and cut the ends of those that remain,
that
may
have been touched by the cinders or ashes,
and serve.
Attention ought to be paid to the fire, as
the French cook with wood.
For Truffes à l'Espagnole, à la Piémontaise, à la
Périgueux, see article Řagoûts.
Potatoes. Pommes de Terre à la Maître-d'Hôtel:
Wash, and very carefully put them into a pot of
boiling water ; when they are enough put them
into a drainer ; peel and cut them in small rounds
like farthings; put into a stewpan butter, hashed
parsley, scallions, pepper, and salt; add the pota-
toes, and put it upon the fire ; toss them, to melt
the butter, and if not properly thickened, put in a lit-
tle soup or water: when ready to serve, put the juice
of a lemon, or a little verjuice over, and send them to
table.
Potatoes.—Pommes de Terre au Jus, ou à la Bretonne.
Prepare them as the Haricots à la Bretonne.
Potatoes.-Pommes de Terre à la Lyonnaise.
Wash and turn them : cut them all into small
ounds, as indicated above, and of the thickness of a


ENTREMETS.
269
halfpenny; flour them; heat some oil in a fryingpan;
put them in; take care they do not stick; fry them
of a fine colour, that they may be crisp; drain,
shake a little salt over, and serve.
Potates aux Beurre.
Take that kind of potatoes if they are to be found;
wash, and cook them in steam; take off their skins, and
cut them in form and size of farthings, only a little
thicker ; put them into a stewpan with a bit of butter
and salt; toss, and serve.
Potates en Beignets.
Take these potatoes, wash and scrape them; cut
them in pieces in the manner of salsify; marinade
them half an hour in brandy, with a bit of lemon
peel; when ready to serve, drain, and dip them into a
light paste; fry them of a fine colour; drain, dress, dust
sugar over them, and serve.
Frangipane de Potates.
Cook them in steam; take off the skin ; beat them
well in a mortar ; put them into a basin ; add some
eggs, a little butter, salt, rasped citron, some bitter ma-
caroons, sugar or not, and use it as a frangipane for
all sorts of entremets of pastry.
Vegetable Marrow. — Aubergines.
The Aubergine is from the south and east, and has
made little progress in this country; but they are an
excellent herb, and must, as soon as known, be held in
great estimation : they are of different sizes and co-
lours; and are in appearance between the small gourd
and cucumber.
Aubergines sur la Grille.
Cut them in halves lengthways; do not take off the
skin, but take off the stalk ; put them in a dish; pow-
der them with salt and pepper; baste them with a lit-
tle oil; leave them to steep or marinade half an hour;
put them on the grill ; take care to baste them with
their seasoning : when enough, serve.
Aubergines à la Tourtière.
Cut them in two, take out the hearts as they do
N 3


270
FRENCH COOKERY.
cucumbers ; hash these hearts very fine; add parsley
and shalots hashed; put all into a saucepan with a bit
of butter: let it cook; put the Aubergines upon a tart.
pan; fill them with the ragoût ; put them into the oven,
and when done, serve.
Potatoes. Topinambours,
Are of the same species with the potatoe, and are
cooked in steam ; peeled, cut in slices, and put into
butter, sauce a little high-seasoned, with mustard, if
agreeable, and serve.
Hops. —Houblon,
Are used in the spring instead of asparagus, and are
cooked in the same manner, and eaten either with a
white sauce, or oil.
Pumpkin. Giromon.
Take a giromon, cut it in several pieces, pare it, and
take out the seed; cut it equally in small squares
about the size of an inch; blanch and cook it in salt
and water; drain ; put into a stewpan a bit of butter,
parsley, and scallions hashed, salt and pepper; toss
and serve.
Another Way
Une autre Manière.
Work a piece of butter as for a white sauce ; wet
it with a little milk, or cream ; season it with salt,
pepper, parsley, and scallions, hashed; cook the sauce,
turning it like a béchamelle : when enough, put in the
giromon, which has been cooked and drained; let it
simmer; add a little nutmeg, and serve.
Turk's Cap.
Bonnet de Turk et Artichaut de Bar.
barie.
It is cooked in the same manner with the other
pumpkins, being of the same species.
STORE-ROOM. Office.
To clarify Sugars. Clarification du Sucre.
Put the whites of two eggs into four pints of water ;
froth the water by whipping it with a whisk; put into
a proper pan a loaf of sugar of twelve or fourteen
pounds, broken in pieces; wet it, and make it fall by


STORE-ROOM.
271
adding two-thirds of the blanched water *; set it upon
the fire; take care when it rises ; throw in a little cold
water, and take it off, to let it fall and throw up the
scum; in five or six minutes put it again on the fire,
and continue to skim it as it rises, throwing in a little
water sufficient to keep it from flying over: when it is
very pure, it will rise no more; take it off, and pass it
through a wet bag, or napkin. The first degree is the
petit lissé t ; for which it must again be put upon the
fire ; let it boil, till dipping the finger into it, and
pressing it against the thumb, which on opening forms
a thread and breaks, and runs back into a drop upon
the finger.
Grand Lissé. †
It is known in the same way, with this difference,
that with a boil more, it extends further in the thread
between the fingers, and does not break so easily.
For the petit ş or the grand perlé, continue boiling,
and make the same trial with the fingers ; if it threads
upon the fingers without breaking, that is the little
perlé; and when the fingers are opened at full length
without the thread breaking, or that it forms round
perles, that is the grand perlé. Il
Between the grand perlé and the soufflé is the grande
queue de cochon, which is known by lifting the skim-
mer; if the sugar falls in little bottles, which form a
kind of pig's tail
, more boiling brings it to the soufflé:**
continue to give it a few more boils, and you will know
by drawing the skimmer from the pan, which must be
held over the sugar ; blowing first the one side and
then the other, through the holes there will fly off
little flakes of sugar.
To bring it à la petite plumett, continue to boil a lit-
tle longer, make the same trial as above, when it
* The blanched or white water that the egg has been mixed in.
† Petit lissé, short thread. Grand lissé, long thread.
Ś Petit perlé, small pearl. il Grand perlé, large pearl.
| Queue de chocom, pig’s tail, ** Soufflé, flakes.
ft Small feather.
N 4


STORE-ROOM.
279
afterwards put it through a bag ; return and pass it till
clear and limpid.
Great care ought to be taken, a day or two before cla-
rifying more, to clean the bag very well, by the means
of two or three eggs and some water heated to the tenth
degree; use may be made of that sweet water to clarify
more honey: there will only be required in addition six
eggs in a little water to clarify the above quantity.
Compotes of Fruit. — Compotes et Fruits Confits.
Green Apricots. - Abricots verts.
Take half a pound of the grit of wood-ashes; put
it in four pints of water upon the fire; throw in the
fruit, stirring them constantly, until the down comes
easily off ; take them out , and throw them into fresh
water; half a pound of wood-ashes ought to les-
sive three pints of apricots; after being well washed,
prick them with a pin, and put them again two hours
upon the fire, in five or six pints of water, until they
are blanched and returned to their green: they are
enough when a pin pierches them easily: take them
from the fire, and throw them again into fresh water;
take a pound and a half of sugar, which must be cla-
rified in a pint of water; put in the fruit upon the fire;
leave them an hour nearly, but do not let them boil:leave
them in the sugar till next day; drain, and give the
sugar a few boils ; pour it over the fruit, and serve.
Preserved early Cherries. — Compote de Cérises
précoses.
Take a pound of cherries, and cut off half the stalks ;
clarify half a pound of sugar; put in the cherries, cover
them, and give them a boil ; skim them well and serve.
Preserved Cherries without Stones. - Compote de
Cérises sans Noyaur.
Take two pound of cherries to make one or two com-
potes; take out the stones and stalks; clarify a pound
of sugar in a pint of water, with the quarter of the
white of an egg; skim it, and run it through a cloth or
gauze search; put the cherries in the sugar; cover
and give them a boil; skim and serve.
N 5


STORE-ROOM.
277
the hearts ; blanch them; add half the juice of a
lemon to preserve their colour; pare, and throw
them into fresh water; drain, and put them into a
a light syrup; give them a dozen of boils; dress, and
serve.
Grilled Pears.--. Bon-chrétiens grillés.
Have a strong fire of charcoal, and grill them
equally; when they are enough throw them into fresh
water; the skin ought to fall off; wash them in
three or four waters, until they are perfectly free
from every speck; take out the eye, and put them
in a light syrup with a little cinnamon ; let them boil
until they are perfectly done; and their syrup has
acquired a consistence. Compotes may be made of
every kind of pear, in summer or winter, by following
the above directions.
Apples in Sugar.- Compote de Pommes blanches.
Take some fine rennets that are not blemished;
pare them, (do them whole, or in halves ;) put them as
they are dressed into fresh water; drain ; and to four
large rennets give six ounces of clarified sugar, and
half the juice of a lemon ; turn them with a fork that
they may be equally done; put them into a compote
dish ; reduce the syrup into jelly, and pour over it;
or if more jelly is wanted, apples cut in pieces may
be done with it; pass the syrup through a gauze
search; reduce it to jelly, and pour it gently over the
fruit.
Apples another Way.Compote de Pommes à la
Portugaise.
This compote is made generally of the white, or
large rennet; the fruit is not pared, but is cored
by an apple corer; prick it with a knife and boil
in a light syrup; when half done take it out of the
syrup, place it upon a leaf or earthen dish, and put
it under a small oven to take a fine colour ; baste
it from time to time with the syrup that it was
boiled in.
B
f
1


STORE-ROOM.
279
the year.
are done in the same manner, beginning always with
a light syrup, and go on till the fruit has taken a suf-
ficient quantity of sugar to make it keep throughout
Small Yellow Plumbs in Sugar. Prunes de Mira.
belle.
These are small yellow plumbs that resemble the
mirabelle ; the mirabelle is known by the stone being
quite detached from the fruit; they must neither be
too green or too ripe, their stalk must hold; when the
water is ready, prick them with a pin and put
them
in; when they rise take them out and throw them into
cold water; drain them immediately, and put them
into a light syrup; give them a little boil, and finish
as the foregoing. They may also be put into brandy.
Peaches in Sugar.—Compotes de Pêches Mignonnes.
Take the quantity of peaches necessary for a con-
pote ; put them into boiling water to take off the skin,
and then into a light sugar; give them a boil; skim
and put them in a compote dish and serve.
Peaches another Way. Pêches grosses Mignonnes.
Divide the peaches, take out the stones; pare and
put them in sugar, give them a boil, dress, and serve.
In making these compotes, it is necessary that the
fruit be ripe, without being too much so.
Peach Marmalade. Marmalade de Pêches.
Take ripe peaches, pare them, and cut them in
pieces; for six pounds of fruit, put four pounds and a
half of sugar, which must be clarified and brought to
the fort perlé; put the fruit into the sugar, and while
it is doing do not quit it: stir it always with a wooden
spatula till it is enough, that is, when it has arrived at
the same point as directed for the apricot marmalade.
Peaches in Brandy. - Pêches à l'Eau-de-Vie.
If the peaches to be put into brandy are not quite
ripe they must be blanched; but otherwise only
pricked; put them into clarified sugar, making them
boil slowly; turn them from time to time; take them


280
FRENCH COOKERY.
out; when they have cooled, return them into the
syrup upon a very slow fire, that they may only trem-
ble, not boil; then let them cool in the pan; after-
wards they may be well drained; boil up the sugar to
mix with the brandy; put the peaches into bottles,
and fill them up
Grilled Peaches in Sugar. — Compote de Péches
grillées.
Take peaches that are not ripe, otherwise they
would burst over the fire, and follow the same direc-
tions that are given for the pears, (bons chrétiens); after
having washed them in several waters, put them in
Quinces in Sugar. — Compote de Coins.
Take very ripe quinces ; divide them in three or
four pieces, pare them, and take out the heart; blanch
them; put them into a light sugar; cover them, and
give them a good boil: next day give them another,
when they are ready for use. If they are to be pre-
served for the year, finish them like the others upon
the fifth day. And if to be of a red colour, when they
are blanching leave them in the same water, and add
the sugar to it; do it upon a very slow fire that they
may boil softly; keep them covered, and they will be-
come very red: they are finished when their syrup
comes to jelly : five hours are sufficient to do them in
the sugar.
this way.
Quince Jelly. - Gelée de Coins.
Cut in pieces a sufficient quantity of quinces ; draw
off the juice by boiling them in water, in which they
ought only to swim, no more. When fully done, drain
and have ready clarified sugar, to which put one
spoonful to two of the juice; bring the sugar to the
soufflé; add the juice, and finish. When it drops from
the skimmer it is enough; take it off, and pot it.
Syrup of Barberries Sirop d'Epine-vinette.
Bruise a pound of very ripe fine red barberries, put
into a sweetmeat-pan a pint of water; when it boils,
throw in the fruit and give it a dozen boils ; take it off


STORE-ROOM.
281
the fire and put it into a basin till next day; clarify
two pounds and half of sugar, for the fort perlé;
put the barberries upon the fire, and give them a boil;
press the juice through a search, and add it to the
sugar; give it some boils; to know if it is enough, put
a little upon a plate, and if it has sufficient consistence,
skim it and put it in bottles; this syrup is not subject
to ferment, and keeps long,
Confitures de Ver-jus.
Take verjuice, neither too green nor too ripe, that
is to say, if, by opening, the seeds can be taken out
with a pin, throw them as they are done into fresh
water; afterwards put them into a pan and blanch
them; take care not to give them too strong a boil,
because they would melt immediately; they must be
taken off the moment they come to the surface of the
water; let them cool in that water; when they are
cold, they are again to be put upon a very slow fire
to recover their colour, after which, put them in fresh
water; take the quantity of sugar necessray; cla-
rify and let it be brought to the petit lissé ; strain and
put in the verjuice. Next day strain it again and boil
up the sugar; then put in the verjuice; in this manner
continue till the fifth day, when it ought to be brought
to the fort perlé; give the verjuice a boil; skim, and
put it in pots.
Ver-jus Skinned. — Ver-jus Perlé.
Take some verjuice, riper than those used for the
last article, but very green; take off the skin and the
seeds with a little pointed skewer; for two pounds of
verjuice prepared in this manner, boil two pounds of
sugar au boulet; put in the verjuice, and give them a
dozen of boils; afterwards take them off the fire;
skim, and put them in pots.
Paste of Ver-juice.—Páte de Ver-jus.
Take verjuice almost ripe, and let it break upon the
fire, stirring it with a spatula ; add some pared apples
cut in pieces; the whole being mashed, put it through
a close hair search in such a manner that there


282
FRENCH COOKERY.
remains nothing but the skin and seeds ; put it upon
the fire to dry until it has a consistence; weigh it, and
take as much sugar as fruit; bring the sugar to the
soufflé, and put in the fruit, stirring it constantly with
a spatula, without quitting it; when the páte rises
easily from the bottom, it is enough; put it into moulds
or cases of paper; put it in the stove, strewing it with
sifted sugar.
Oranges in Sugar.-Compote d'Oranges.
Take four or six
fine oranges ; take off the skin,
and with the point of a knife take off all the threads;
have half a pound of sugar hot in a basin; cut them into
slices, and put them in the sugar; dress them in a
compote dish, and serve with the syrup poured over.
Chesnuts in Sugar.—— Compote de Marrons.
Take a hundred beautiful chesnuts; take off the
outer skin; put them into a pan with water, a lemon
cut in bits, and three handfuls of bran: give them
enough of water to cover them; let them blanch with-
out much fire; when they are enough, a needle will
penetrate easily; take them out of the water with a
skimmer, peel and throw them into fresh water and
lemon juice; clarify a pound and half of sugar, and
bring it to the petit lissé; drain the chesnuts and
put them in the sugar, with the juice of a lemon, and a
quarter of a glass of orange flower-water; put all upon
the fire without allowing it to boil; take it off, and
next day drain and boil the syrup; at the fourth boil
.
ing augment the sugar, and bring it to the soufflé ;
put in the chesnuts; an instant after the sugar whitens,
which must be done with a fork or spoon against
the pan, take out, and put them to drain upon a grille
à tirage;
as soon as they are cold they are dry, and
that is what is called chesnuts glazed. There is no
other manner to make them.
Chesnuts another Way. - Compote de Marrons à
t' Italienne.
Take fifty fine chesnuts, grill, skin, and flatten them:
lay them upon a silver dish, or a tart-pan ; add four


STORE-ROOM.
283
ounces of very light clarified sugar; boil them a little;
heat a poker; when they are taken off, strew sugar
over, and glaze them; arrange them in a compote dish,
and make the syrup with the juice of a Seville
orange, and half the juice of a lemon in a little cla-
rified sugar.
Marmalade of Quinces. - Marmalade de Coins.
Take them very ripe and blanch them whole: when
they are soft, take them out ; peel and cut them in
little bits; beat them in a mortar, and pass them
through a search; take the same quantity of clarified
sugar brought to the soufflé, as there is of fruit, and
finish as the others.
Cherry Marmalade. Marmalade de Cérises.
Take some very ripe cherries ; take off the stalks
and stone them ; break them, and give them a strong
boil; then put them into a search, and force them
through with a spatula or a wooden spoon, till no-
thing remains but the skin; put it again upon the
fire to dry it ; when it has reduced a half, weigh it,
and put the same quantity of sugar ; bring it to its
point; try if it threads between the fingers ; if it does,
then it is finished. Gooseberry or currant marmalade
is made in the same manner.
Grape Marmalade.
Marmalade de Ver-jus.
Take them nearly ripe ; break them, and put them
on the fire; give them several boils, and pass
them
through a search, till nothing is left but the seeds and
skins; reduce them upon the fire; weigh, and give the
same quantity of sugar; bring it to the soufflé, and
finish as the marmalade of cherries.
Orange Marmalade.—Marmalade d'Orange.
Take fifteen or twenty fine oranges
of a thick skin;
take off the skin, as nothing else is used; blanch, re-
fresh, drain, and beat them strongly in a mortar, and
pass them through a hair search with a spatula; weigh,
and give a pound and a half of sugar to every pound
of fruit; clarify it to fort perlé; put in the fruit, and
give it several boils, stirring it always with the spa-


284
FRENCH COOKERY.
manner.
1
tula. When it threads, it is at the point; pot it. All
marmalades of yellow fruits are done in the same
Orange Flower Marmalade.
-Marmalade de Fleurs
d'Oranges.
Take two pounds of orange flowers, fresh gathered;
and very white; pick and throw them into fresh
water; two pounds, when well picked, will not give
more than one pound; drain, and put them into boil-
ing water; give them one boil only; take them imme-
diately off the fire; drain and throw them into fresh
boiling water, with the juice of two or three lemons
over a very brisk fire: when the flowers break easily
with the fingers, take them out; put them into cold
water, with the juice of a lemon; drain, and press them
in a new cloth to take out the water; beat them very
well in a marble mortar, wetting it with lemon juice;
when it is enough beaten, put it in a small pan, and
clarify two pounds and a half of the finest sugar;
bring it to the perlé, and put it by degrees to the flowers,
and mix it with a spatula : when the half of the
sugar has been put in, put the other half upon the fire
to bring it to the petit soufflé, and add it to the mar-
malade, stirring it always with a spatula ; put it again
upon the fire; heat it well without letting it boil, and
Orange Chips in Sugar Compote de Tailladins
d'Oranges.
After grating the oranges, cut them in small chips;
boil them in water till they are enough; put them in
fresh water, drain and put them in a light sugar; give
them several boils ; next day give them another, and
serve.
Confected Oranges.-Oranges Confites au Sucre.
Grate a dozen fine oranges, cut them in quarters
and tie them together; boil them in a great quantity of
water, for at least three or four hours, on a continued
boil: when enough done, a pin will easily pierce the
skin; put them fresh water; cut them into smaller
pieces, leaving always the orange attached to the
pot it.


STORE-ROOM.
285
skin; clarify three pounds of sugar, of which keep
back the half; drain, and put in the fruit; every day
boil the syrup, adding some of that in reserve : some
do only the skin, or the orange
whole.
Conserve of Violets -Conserve Moëlleuse à la
Violette.
Take some violets and pick them, taking nothing
but the leaves of the flower; a handful will make
three quarters of a pound of conserve: beat them well
in a marble mortar, to obtain the juice; clarify three
quarters or a pound of sugar, which must be brought
to the first soufflé; take it off the fire, and let it cool;
add the juice with a few drops of lemon, that the
colour may be as bright as possible ; work it well to-
gether with a silver spoon till it begins to whiten and
dry; put it immediately into cases of any size, but the
conserve must be only the sixth part of an inch thick:
when cold, mark it lightly with a knife the size it is to
be of; handle it tenderly in the moulds.
Conserve of Lemons—Conserve de Citrons.
Take the zest of a lemon and squeese the juice over
it; leave it some time to infuse; boil half a pound of
sugar to the first perlé ; run the lemon juice through
a cloth or gauze search to take out the zest; put the
juice to the sugar, and work it with a spoon till it is
very white, and put it into moulds.
Conserve of Strawberries. — Conserve de Fraises.
Put a handful of fresh ripe strawberries through a
gauze search, with the back of a spoon; to every
spoonful of expressed juice put six ounces of sugar au
fort perlé ; take it off the fire and put in the juice;
whiten your sugar as directed for the lemon; if the
conserve is too white, you may put a little carmine
into a drop of clarified sugar, and mix it very well;
work it into the conserve, which will give it a fine co-
lour; put it in moulds.
Conserve of Citron-Conserve de cédrat.
Take a nice high-flavoured citron, rub it with a piece
of sugar to obtain the zest and the perfume; scrape


286
FRENCH COOKERY.
the zest of the sugar with a knife, and squeeze the
juice of a lemon over to melt it: one done in this
manner will require a pound of sugar to the fort perlé;
put in the juice, and work it as directed for the others:
as citron is not always to be had fresh, the confected
citron may be used, which can be had at all times; a
half or a quarter is well beaten in a mortar, and put
through a search, and mixed in proportion with sugar
brought to the first perlé ; the juice of lemon must not
be forgotten.
Conserve of Roses - Conserve de Roses.
Boil half a pound of sugar to the first soufflé, take
the best double rose water and put in as much as will
bring the sugar back to the fort perlé : to give it a fine
colour add a few drops of cochineal; mix it perfectly,
and put it in moulds.
Conserve of Chocolate. Conserve de Chocolat.
Boil down two ounces of chocolate de santé or of
vanille, in a quarter of a glass of water ; have ready
half a pound of sugar au perlé; mix it with the sugar,
and work as the other: for all sorts of wet conserves,
follow the directions given for cherries, currants,
gooseberries, raspberries, oranges, lemons, &c. &c.
Conserve of Coffee. Conserve de Cafe.
Make some very clear strong coffee, have ready a
pound of sugar clarified, and brought au boulet or an
petit cassé ; take it off the fire, and put in a cup of
coffee to bring it to its point; work it as in the fore-
going article, and mould it.
Saffron. ---Conserve soufflée au Safran.
This conserve is made exactly as that of the rose:
the sugar is prepared in the same manner; to give it
the taste and colour, a small pinch is sufficient; put it
into a quarter of a glass of water, let it boil an instant
and infuse ; pass it through a cloth; put it into the
sugar without taking it off the fire: work it, and mould
it as the other.
Orange-flower Cakes.—Gâteaux de Fleur d'Oranges.
Take half a pound of fresh orange-flowers, and pick


STORE-ROOM.
287
them ; clarify three pounds of sugar, and boil it au
petit cassé ; put in the flowers, and give them some
boils; prepare icing in the following manner : Take
half of the white of an egg, and two ounces of sugar ;
put through a gauze search, mixed well together with
a silver spoon, until the icing is perfectly white; a
few drops of lemon juice may be added to finish it ; it
ought to have a certain consistence, neither too thick
nor too thin; put the sugar again upon the fire, and
let it come au cassé ; take it off, and add a large
spoonful of icing; stir it quickly into the sugar with
a spatula, until it rises ; it must be poured quickly into
the moulds.
Rose souffly Cakes. – Gâteau soufflé à la Rose.
Take a handful or two of rose-leaves, according to
the quantity you intend to make ; a handful of picked
leaves is sufficient for a pound of sugar; boil the sugar
(au boulet, or petit cassé); put the rose-leaves into the
sugar, and follow the same directions as for the orange
flowers; adding cochineal in the icing, that it may be
of a fine colour.
Orange-flower Sugar Candy. — Sucre Candi en
Terrine à la Fleur d'Orange, ou gros Candi.
Prepare half a pound of very white orange-flowers;
boil three pounds of sugar au soufflé ; put in the
orange flowers, and give them a dozen of boils ; run it
through a hair search to take out the flowers; return
the sugar into the pan, and bring it to the soufflé ;
skim, and take it off the fire; add a quarter of a glass
of the spirit of roses : pour it into a basin; cover it,
and put it into the stove for eight days, taking care to
keep it of an equal heat; drain off the syrup, as the
candy remains fixed; heat the basin; it will fall off.
Not to lose the flower, rub them well in sifted sugar,
till they are dry with the hands ; sift, and put them to
dry in the stove.
Large Rose Candy. — Gros Candi à la Rose,
Is made in the same manner, in adding the proper
colours; and the spirit of roses is preferable to rose


288
FRENCH COOKERY.
water ; above all, the flowers ought to be very
odori.
ferous; for it will be observed, if the odours were put
in with the sugar, they would fly off in boiling, and
ought not to be put in till after the sugar has been
brought to its point: in giving the colour for the rose,
the cochineal is prepared, or the carmine is put into a
little clarified sugar; and care must be had not to
put too much, that the colour may be fine.
Large yellow Candy. Gros Candi jaune.
The same preparation as the foregoing, coloured
with the tincture of saffron.
Candy of Violets.
Candi de Violettes.
Take half a pound of picked violets ; have a pound
of sugar at the fort perlé; when it is half cold, put in
the flowers, and set the pan upon hot cinders for two
hours, that the flower may give all its colour; put it
through a search ; rub the flowers in sifted sugar to
dry them; put them into the stove till next day; then
search them to take out the superfluous sugar; put
the candy into moulds, and cover the surface with
flowers, without making them too thick in pressing
them in with a fork, that the flowers may attach to the
sugar, and that they shouid be well covered; put the
moulds into the stove for five hours without heating it
too much ; drain them to take off the syrup: when
cold, take them out of the moulds, put a sheet of
paper upon the table, and turn them quickly over as
with a stroke, to make the candy fall.
Candy of Jessamine. — Petit Candi de Jasmin.
Pick 'two handsful of jessamin; put it in sugar as
directed in the foregoing receipt; rub it in sifted sugar,
and dry it in the stove ; after moulding the sugar,
finish as above.
Candy of Jonquille. —- Petit Candi de Jonquille.
Follow the directions given above.
Candied Jonquille Flowers.—Jonquille entiére.
Take the double jonquille; cut the stalk within &
quarter of an inch of the flower; boil them in prepared


STORE-ROOM.
289
sugar: take them off the fire, and leave them a quarter
of an hour in it ; throw them into sifted sugar; in mix-
ing them lightly, care must be taken that the leaves
are kept in their places, that the flower retains its form,
and that it is equally covered with sugar; put paper
into a search, and sift sugar over it, and lay in the
flowers ; put them into a stove to dry, and keep them
in a box in a dry place.
Flowers done in this way could be put into candy
in having little grills made for the moulds, upon which
they might be put; and one above with a weight suffi-
cient to keep them in the sugar. This might be
done with all the flowers that are preserved, whether
in leaves or entire; and the candies could be had at
all seasons.
Confected Orange Flowers. -Fleur d'Orange pra-
linée.
Choose the orange-flowers fresh and white; pics
them, and throw them into water: for one pound o
the flowers, take two pounds of clarified sugar, brought
to the soufflé; after having worked the flowers well in
the water, drain and put them to the sugar ; stir it
well till it comes again to the same height it was be-
fore ;
then take off the sugar from the fire, and work
it with a spatula, until the sugar separates and be-
comes a powder; put the flowers and sugar to dry in
the stove, and afterwards sift out the superfluous
sugar; box or bottle the flowers.
The flowers might be done in sifted sugar, as indi-
cated for the gros candi de fleur d'orange, in observing
always to wash them well in water, that the form may
be preserved, before they are put into the sugar.
With the orange-flower pralinée in either manner;
the petits candis are made as in the articles violette and
jonquille.
Conserve of Orange Flowers. Conserve de Fleur
d'Orange.
Take a little or ge-flower ; pick and hash it upon
white paper, putting in some drops of lemon juice;
0


290
FRENCH COOKERY.
have ready four ounces of sugar au soufflé; add the
flowers, and give them a little boil, to work it; mould
it in paper cases.
Almond Candy:Petit Candi d'Amandes.
Take a pound of sweet almonds ; skin them ; cut
them in narrow long chips ; have a pound of clarified
sugar; put them in to praliner; work them upon the
fire with a wooden spatula, till the sugar begins to
grain ; take it off and work it till it grains ; sift out
the sugar, and divide the almonds into four parts, to
give them separate colours; one white, one red, with
carmine, another yellow in saffron, and spinnage for
the green : dry them in the stove, mix them toge-
ther : afterwards boil as much sugar as your mould
will hold, au soufflé ; strew the top lightly with these
almonds; make them sink into the sugar a little with
a fork, put them into a quickish stove ; five hours is suf-
ficient; drain well, and two hours after they may be
taken out of the mould.
Small Rose Candy.
-Petit Candi à la Rose.
Pralinéz two handsful of rose leaves in clarified
sugar, boiling them to the soufflé, then take them
off the fire, and work them till the sugar grains ;
search them in an open hair search to get out the su-
perfluous sugar; rub the flowers with the hands,
and put them into the stove to dry; prepare sugar as
for the other candies, and put it into a mould; the su-
gar for the mould ought to be coloured a little with
cochineal : cover as directed above with the rose
leaves.
Confected Almonds.--Amandes pralinées.
Take a pound of fresh new almonds, which must be
well rubbed with a cloth; put a pound of sugar,
with a little water, into a
proper
sized
pan, and add
a little more water when the sugar is melted; put
them in, work them well with the spatula till they
sparkle; take them off the fire, and work them weil
till the sugar grains and falls off the almonds; take
out a part of the sugar, and put the almonds again


STORE-ROOM.
291
upon the fire till they take the sugar, which will be
done by stirring; take care the fire is not too strong ;
when they have taken the sugar, put in what was
taken out, and continue the work till the almonds
have taken the whole sugar; put them upon a search,
and separate such as are stuck together.
Confected Filberts.-Avelines Pralinées.
Take of the finest and best filberts a pound, when
shelled they will only give six ounces; clarify six ounces
of sugar, and put them to praliner : follow exactly
the directions given in the preceding article. Do also
pistaches in the same manner.
Grilled Almonds. Grillage d'Amandes.
Blanch half a pound of almonds, and cut them
length ways, in five or six pieces; pralinéz them
in three-quarters of a pound of sugar; granulate them
when they begin to move quick, and put them again
upon the fire, stirring them constantly until the al-
monds are well mixed together in a mass; oil a
leaf and put it upon it; flatten, and strew over it cin-
namon or white nonpareil confits ; cut it quickly in
pieces.
Cherries en Chemise. Cérises blanchies, ou en
Chemise.
Take large fine ripe cherries and cut off half the
stalks ; beat the white of an egg with a fork to froth ;
dip the cherries into it, and roll them entirely in
sifted sugar: if any are overcharged, blow it off ; put
a sheet of paper in a search and dress them in it; put
them in a stove, leave them till ready to serve.
Bunches of Currants en Chemise.—Grosseilles en
Grappe, en Chemise, ou blanchies.
Take some fine currants ; dip them them into the
white of an egg ; roll them in sifted sugar, and finish
them as directed for the cherries. Strawberries are
done in the same manner, taking off the small leaves
from the stalk.
Grapes also, or any small fruit.
o 2


292
FRENCH COOKERY.
Cherries. Cérises au Caramel.
Take cherries with their stalks ; put into a pan
nearly the clarified sugar that the cherries would re-
quire, or any other fruit; when at the height of cassé,
take it off the fire, and dip in the fruit, one by one,
holding them by the stalk, and put them on a copper
leaf that has been slightly oiled; cut off half the
stalk, dish and serve.
All sorts of fruit in their season are done au cara-
mel; and in winter those that have been preserved,
such as the reine-claude, mirabelle, and apricots in
brandy, and all small preserved fruits, only precau-
tion must be had to wash them in warm water ; wipe
and dry them in the stove, which makes the caramel
remain longer dry. A grille à tirage, slightly oiled,
is better than the copper leaf, as it allows the super-
fluous sugar to drop off: they may be dried in a ha
sun.
Different Fruits in Caramel.-Caramel d'Oranges,
Marrons, &c.
Take off the skin nicely from three or four oranges
clean them of all the threads, and open them carefully
without breaking them into their divisions; take a
small pointed bodkin of wood and prick them, having
brought the sugar au caramel; dip in the divisions
one after another; drain them on a grille à tirage, and
fix them that they may dry in the open air.
Chesnuts au caramel are first grilled, as they are
done to serve in a cloth; they are afterwards skinned
and pricked with a bodkin, and dipt into the caramel
one after another ; put to drain upon a grille à tirage
and dried in the air.
Grapes in Caramel. · Raisin au Caramel.
Take a bunch of grapes which are not very closely
set; cut them into small bunches of seven or eight
grapes together; have a copper leaf slightly oiled, and
dip them into the caramel which has been previously
prepared; drain them a little and put them upon the


STORE-ROOM.
293
oiled leaf; leave the stalks that they may be tied
together into large bunches if wanted.
Pomegranates in Caramel. Caramel de Grenades.
Take off the skin, leaving nothing but the grains ;
prick them with a bodkin; dip them in the caramel,
and finish as the others.
To prepare Cochineal. — Cochenille préparée.
Take an ounce of cochineal, and beat it in a marble
mortar into a fine powder ; beat an ounce of cream of
tartar and two grains of alum ; put half a pint of water
into a small pan, when it boils put in the cochineal
to boil ten minutes, then add the cream of tartar and
alum; give it a few more boils ; take it from the fire,
.eave it to clear and bottle it.
Yellow Colour. Couleur Jaune.
Take gambouge, and rub it down in hot water ;
use it for all shades of yellow; saffron is preferable for
confitures and liqueurs. A small bit is to be boiled.
Green Colour. Couleur verte.
Take two or three large handsful of spinnage, pick
and wash it well, beat it in a marble mortar; then
express the juice through a cloth ; put it upon the
fire and keep stirring it; when it is enough put it into
a gauze search, that the water may run off; take it out
of the search and rub it again in the mortar with a
little clarified sugar; put it through a gauze search
and use it. For green, mix saffron or gumbouche with
indigo.
Voilet Colour. Couleur Violette.
Mix some of the mixture of cochineal with indigo
in equal parts, which will give a fine violet colour.
All of these colours may be mixed in different shades.
Spoon Biscuit. - Biscuit à la Cuiller.
Weigh'eight eggs with as much sugar ; put it into a
bason; break the eggs over it, keeping out the whites;
peat them well together; add lemon zest ; beat the
whites to a froth and mix with the other ingredients;
add the weight of fivè eggs of searched four, stirring
o 3


294
FRENCH COOKERY.
spoon biscuit.
it lightly in till it is well mixed; drop the biscuits
with a spoon of a long form upon white paper; and
sift sugar over to glaze them; put them into a mode-
rate oven. To make them lighter, keep out one-fifth
of the flour.
Light Lemon Biscuits.- Biscuits Légers en Caisse au
Citron.
For eight eggs put eight spoonsful of sugar in a
basin, and a little rasped lemon; put six yolks into the
sugar, and beat them well; then beat the whites to
snow, and add them; mix in well and lightly three
spoonsful of flour; drop these biscuits into paper cases,
and sift sugar over: let the oven be still slower than
that directed for the
Pistaches Biscuits. -Biscuits de Pistaches.
Take a quarter of a pound of pistaches, which must
be put into boiling water to take off the skins; let them
be new and fresh; rub them in a cloth ; beat them well
in a mortar with the white of an egg, and the quarter
of a confected citron or lemon; add a little prepared
spinnage, that the biscuit may be of a fine green;
take eight eggs, break them, keeping back two yolks,
and beat the six yolks with eight spoonsful of sugar;
when they are well beaten, add the pistaches; then
whip the eight whites very well, and mix altogether ;
mix three spoonsful of four lightly with a spatula;
put them into paper cases; sift sugar over, and put
them into a slow oven,
Chocolate Biscuits, Biscuits au Chocolat, ,
Are made exactly as those of pistaches, putting in
three ounces of chocolate or vanille rasped, instead of
the pistaches, and finish them in the same manner.
Light Hazel Nut Biscuit.—-Biscuits légers aux Avelines.
Take two small handsful of shelled filberts, roast
them as you do coffee, turning them continually till
the skin comes easily off; rub them in a cloth, and rasp
them take six yolks and eight spoonsful of sugar, and
prepare a paste; put in two-thirds of the rasped nuts,
with eight whites beaten to snow, adding three spoons
1


STORE-ROOM.
205
some
ful of flour, as directed above; put them in cases;
strew over them the remainder of the nuts; sift sugar
over, and put them into a slow oven.
Cream Biscuits.- Biscuits à la Crême.
For ten eggs take ten spoonsful of sugar, and six
spoonsful of four; beat the yolks with the sugar, and
the others separately; then unite them; take
good cream, which must be whipt as for the Fromage
de Chantilly; mix it with the páte, add the flour, and
finish as above.
Orange-flower Biscuits.---Biscuits à la Fleur d'Orange.
Take six eggs, put the yolks in a basin with the
weight of four eggs of sugar; bruise an ounce of orange
flowers pralinées ; add them to the yolks, and beat
them well together with a spatula ; whip the whites to
mix with the pâte; add the weight of three eggs of
four ; put them into paper cases ; sift sugar over; let
the oven be slow; give them only half the time of other
biscuits that they may be soft; serve immediately.
Biscuits souffly of Orange Flowers.-- Biscuits sou flés
à la Fleur d'Orange.
Take the white of a fresh egg, mix it with sifted
sugar, to make an icing, that shall neither be too wet
nor too dry; when it is ready, put in two pinches of
orange flowers pralinées; put these biscuits in very small
paper cases, only a fourth part of the size of ordinary
biscuits ; the cases must only be half filled, because
they rise a great deal in the oven and fall over the
cases: the oven ought to be slow, though hot enough
to give them colour ; leave them in till there is no
chance of their falling; this will be known by touching
them lightly; if they remain firm, it is time to take
them out.
Biscuits souffly of Chocolate.--Biscuits soufflés au
Chocolat.
Make the icing of one or two whites of eggs, as
before directed ; rasp two ounces of chocolate, mix
in the icing of a proper consistence; half fill the cases :
0 4


296
FRENCH COOKERY.
they take the same time to bake as those of the orange
flowers.
Small souffly Biscuits. Petits Biscuits soufflés.
With the royal icing all sorts of small biscuits of
every colour and odour can be made in cases, such as
lemon and orange, by the raspings, with saffron in
powder or strong tincture; rose with carmine or co-
chineal, and adding the spirit of rose for the odour.
Of this icing may be made small buttons about the
size of a filbert, which may
be formed
upon
the point
of one knife by another ; put them on sheets of paper,
and then on an oven leaf, into a very slow oven, that
they may retain their colour ; these buttons may be
made white, saffron, lemon, chocolate, and rose, and
are a beautiful garnish for small dishes where maca-
soons cannot be put.
Bitter Macaroons. Macarons d'Amandes amères.
Take a pound of bitter almonds, which must be
Kinned, and put into the stove; when they are dry,
peat them in a mortar with three whites of eggs;
beat them very fine; if the three whites are not
enough, add a fourth that they may not oil: when
they are finely beaten, mix them in a basin with two
pounds and a half of sifted sugar; if it should be too
dry add another white, for it must be neither too wet
nor too dry; drop it from the point of a knife by the
assistance of another, of the size of nuts upon paper;
put them into a very slow oven.
Sweet Macaroons. - Macarons d'Amandes douces.
Take a pound of blanched sweet almonds, and dried
in the oven; beat them and follow exactly the same
directions as are given for the macaroons of bitter al.
monds; drop them in the same manner, and put them
in a slow oven.
Massepains. — Massepains Royaux.
Take a pound of sweet almonds, and throw them
into fresh water; drain and beat them in a marble
mortar, wetting them with water, and also a little
orange flower water: take care not to wet them too


STORE-ROOM.
297
auch in the beginning; put it in by little and little ;
when they are enough put them into a pan with half
a pound of sifted sugar upon a furnace, with very lit-
tle fire to dry it: to know when it is enough, apply
the back of the hand over it; if it does not stick, it
may be taken out and put upon a leaf, dusted with
fine sugar, and leave it to cool; cut several pieces
upon a table, which ought to be rolled out as equally
as possible to the size of a little finger; cut and form
it into rings, and arrange them upon a grill of brass
wire, which put upon a basin. This paste may be
rolled out and covered slightly with apricot marma-
lade, or any other, and put on a cover of the same
paste ; cut it into lozenges or any other form; put it
on the grill, and ice it with ice made of whites of eggs
and sugar ; they must be iced with a spoon: let them
drain ; arrange
them
upon paper, and put them into a
quick oven.
Almond Tours. Tourons d'Amandes.
Skin one or two handsful of almonds, some pistaches
or filberts, which will require to be roasted as coffee,
to make them part with their skin; pralinéz the
whole together in half a pound of sugar ; let them
cool; beat two whites of eggs, and mix them well
with a spatula, until they form a paste that can be
handled; work into it a good pinch of pralinée* of
orange-flowers; there ought to be more sugar and more
white of
egg if necessary: dress them the size of a nut
upon white paper, rounding them with the hand;
place them not to touch one another; do them in a
slow oven.
Biscuit of Orange Flowers. — Biscuits Manqués à la
Fleur d'Orange.
Take two whites of eggs, and beat them; put four
spoonsful of sifted sugar, two of four, and an ounce
* Pralinér is to boil in sugar till it sticks rough upon whatever
is done in it.
o 5


300
FRENCH COOKERY.
covered with sugar the thickness of a crown piece.
that the paste may not stick; cut them into any form,
round, long, &c.; and put them into a very slow
oven, that they may hardly take any colour; glaz
them with a sugar icing, into which there has been
put some lemon juice; dry them in the stove.
The Twins. — Méringues Jumeau.. .
Take six whites of eggs, and whip them to snow:
put in six spoonsful of sugar with a little grated
lemon; mix all well lightly together; put sheets of
paper upon a board or two, according to the quantity
you are making, and the size of the oven; form the
méringales with a spoon, lifting no more paste at a
time than is necessary to make
one, and form it like
the half of an egg cut lengthways as equally as pos-
sible ; glaze them immediately with sifted sugars, and
put them into a slow oven ; when they have taken a
fine colour, take them out; put two together with a
confected cherry or currant jelly between them, or
any other confection ; put them into searches till
ready to dress them upon the dishes; they are baked
upon boards, that the underpart may be colourless,
and soft that they may stick together.
Véringues à l Italienne.
To six whites of eggs, whipt, take half a pound of
sugar au soufflé : when the eggs have been well
beaten, put them into the sugar, mixing it quickly
with a spatula. Any taste or flavour may be given to
them if it is marasquin ; mix half a glass well in;
dress them as directed in the preceding article, ex-
cept that they are made much smaller ; put them in
the oven as before directed, and double them in the
same manner.
Italian Meringales with Orange Flowers-Méringues
à l'Italienne, à la Fleur d'Orange.
Take eight whites of eggs and whip them to snow:
have ready ten ounces of sugar au soufflé, mix them
quickly together; add an ounce of orange flower pre-
linée which had been dried and ready in powder; mix


STORE-ROOM.
301
it with the other ingredients; dress the méringues as
the former, doubling them when they have taken a
fine colour.
Dry Orange Flower Meringals.-- Méringues, sec
à la Fleur d'Orange.
To ten whites of eggs well beaten, put ten ounces
or spoonsful of sugar, and two ounces of orange
flowers
pralinées well minced or bruised; mix all well together;
whisk them; dress them upon white paper ; this kind
are not drest like the others; take a spoonful of paste
and make it round by turning the spoon, tower it
like a rock: they are glazed by sifting sugar through
a gauze search over them; put them into a very slow
oven upon copper leaves: when they have taken a
fine colour, enough baked and dry, take them out
And put them upon a stove on a search.
Large Cutting Biscuits. — Gros Biscuits à couper.
For ten eggs put a pound of sifted sugar into a bason,
with the yolks, and a little lemon grated ; beat them ;
whip the whites to a snow and put it to the yolks ;
put twelve ounces of flour into a hair search, pass
it over the paste, stirring it lightly in; put the
biscuits in large paper cases, of half a sheet; glaze and
put them into a slow oven; they will take at least a
full hour to bake; draw them to the mouth of the oven
and if they are firm they are enough: these biscuits
are to be cut and served in different ways, with different
tastes and colours : if you would have biscuits de bi-
garade, take a fresh Seville orange, and rub it with a
bit of sugar; grate that sugar with the zest upon a dish,
and squeeze the juice over its adding the juice of a
lemon with some sifted sugar; make a proper icing,
take out the biscuits from their cases ; cut a biscuit
across in seven or eight pieces, and ice both sides,
spreading it equally with a spoon; put them upon a
grille de tirage, over a search or bason, and set into
the stove. Make them also with strawberries, rasp-
berries, currants, &c. by expressing the juice; in
icing, colour them with any of the colours di-


STORE-ROOM.
303
serve.
should be well incorporated, give it a few beats in the
mortar; make them up in the size of rolls of vanille, and
put them upon paper into a very slow oven to dry,
Butter Wafers.—Gauffres au Beurre.
Put into a bason three spoonsful of sugar and three
of flour, a little orange-flower water and a little lemon
grate ; melt two ounces of fine butter in half a pint of
water and wet the paste with it; mix the flour well
and let the paste be thin; that is to say, neither too
clear nor too firm; heat the irons equally on both
sides; butter them all over but slightly ; put in a
spoonful of paste, and fire by turning it on both sides;
take out the gauffre when it is of a fine gilded colour,
and roll it upon a roll, and hold it till it takes the
form; then put in another, and as they are finished
put them in a search into the stove to dry till ready to
Cream Wafers.—Gauffres à la Créme.
Take three spoonsful of sugar, three of flour, two
eggs, a little orange-flower water, and liquify it with
sweet cream; let the paste be thin and very smooth ;
heat the irons on both sides and butter them, and do
the wafers as in the article above: to give them an-
other form, take a bit of very smooth wood about a
foot long and the thickness of a small cane : when the
wafer is ready lay the wood upon the iron and roll
it up: throw it off and put it into the stove.
Spanish Wine Wafers. — Gauffre au Vin d'Espagne.
Put into a bason four ounces of sugar and four
ounces of flour, with two fresh eggs, and liquify the
whole with good Malaga : make the paste about the
consistency of other wafers.
To ice all Sorts of Fruits. Pour glacer toutes Sortes
de Fruits.
Take a sufficient quantity of ice and beat it to snow:
mix along with it some salt and saltpetre; put it into
a bucket made on purpose; put in moulds filled with
the prepared fruits ; shake the bucket without ceasing,
in the hand, for seven or eight minutes ; open and


804
FRENCH COOKERY.
detach from the sides of the moulds the flakes that
have taken, which must be done from time to time,
shaking the bucket; when they have taken, dress
them quickly into their goblets; as it must not be
taken out of the ice till quite ready to serve; con-
tinue to turn and work it till taken out. All ices
that are intended to be firm ought to have a great
deal of sugar and fruit, as the icing diminishes the
strength ; those intended to drink may have less.
Cherry Ice. — Glace de Cérises.
Take two pounds of very ripe cherries ; take out
the stones and stalks ; put them upon the fire with a
quarter of a pound of sugar, and give them a covered
boil; throw them into a hair search and press all
through but the skin ; break a handful of the cherry-
stones; infuse them for an hour in a little water, with
he juice of a lemon; add to it three quarters of a
pound of clarified sugar, au petit lissé, and put in the
infusion of the stones; mix all well together with a
spatula, and do not put it into the icing pails or moulds
till ready to put them into the ice.
Strawberry Ice.-Glace de Fraises.
Take fresh ripe strawberries of a fine perfume;
pick and put them through a close hair search: to a
pound of fruit put three quarters of a pound of
clarified sugar au petit lissé; mix all well together, and
leave them till ready to put them into the ice.
Raspberry Ice. Glace de Framboises.
Pick some fine rasps ; break and put them through
a fine hair search, and accommodate the quantity
of sugar to the fruit, to be enough without being
over sweetened, and put it into the ice as directed
above, working it in the same manner : if the fruit
and sugar are too thick add a little water, which must
be well mixed, and more sugar if necessary.
Currant Ice. -Glace de Groseilles.
Take two pounds of red currants and one of rasps :
put them upon the fire with half a pint of water to
break, and pass them through a hair sea as the


STORE-ROOM.
305
others; melt a pound of sugar and mix in the fruit; if
too acid, put in more sugar; if too thick, a little water,
and finish as before.
When there is no fresh fruit, currant jelly may be
used : liquify it with hot water: if two pots are em-
ployed, put in a chopine of water, and use sugar, if ne-
cessary; rub them through a search with a spatula ;
put it then into the icing pails as above.
Iced Orange-flower Water. -Glace de Fleur d'Orange
t'tait.
Put two handfuls of orange flowers picked, into an
icing pail with a pound of sugar and four pints of
boiling water ; cover it for two hours ; pass it through
a gauze search, fill it into the icing pails, and put
it into the ice.
Apricot Ice.-Glace d'Abricots.
Take thirty very ripe apricots from a standard;
take out the stones ; put them on the fire in four pints
of water, that they may fall in a marmalade ; put them
through a fine hair search, with a spatula, and put in
clarified sugar sufficient; as the ice reduces the force,
add a dozen of apricot kernels well beaten, infused in
the third of a glass of water with the juice of a lemon;
put this decoction through a gauzé search, and mix it
well with the apricots.
Peach Ice. Glace de Pêches.
Take a sufficient quantity of ripe peaches; break
them through a fine hair search with a spatula, or
if they are not ripe enough to go
through a search, cut them in pieces and give them a
boil with a little water and sugar; pass them through
a search, and sweeten with clarified sugar; it is then
ready for icing.
Barberry Ice.-Glace d'Epine-vinette.
Take half a pound of barberries, pick them and boii
them in four pints of water, and half a pound of sugar,
for a quarter of an hour, and pass them through a fine
hair search until nothing remains but the skin; sweeten
it with clarified sugar; put them to ice.
wooden spoon;


306
FRENCH COOKERY.
Ice of Pears. -Glace de Poires.
Ice
may
be made of all sorts of pears; there are,
however, some better than others, such as the but-
ter pear, the St. Germain, the creusanne, and the
rousselet ; take as many of any of these pears as is
necessary; peel and cut them in pieces; put them
upon the fire, with as much water as is sufficient to
make them fall; add the requisite quantity of sugar;
rub it through a search with a spatula; add the juice
of two lemons; put it to ice.
Lemon Ice.-Glace de Citron.
For fifteen lemons, clarify a pound and half of sugar;
put two thirds of it into a basin; put in two or three
zests; cut the lemons in bits, press the juice through a
search into the sugar; let them infuse an hour, and
put in the remainder of the sugar; taste that it is not
too strong of the lemon, and take care for all ices
that the sugar has only obtained the height of the
lissé ; finish it as the other ices.
Orange Ice.—Glace d'Oranges de Portugal.
For twelve oranges, have a pound of clarified sugar,
into which throw the zests of three or four of them,
and take care that the sugar is more boiled than for
the lemon: as the oranges give more juice, the ice will
be too liquid; which will be avoided by boiling the
sugar to a higher degree; pass it through a gauze
search, and add oranges or sugar, as may be necessary;
and when finished, put it to ice.
Seville Orange Ice.
-Glace de Begarades.
Take a pound and quarter of sugar; clarify it in
four pints of water with the white of an egg; take eight
juicy Seville oranges, put in the zests of two, and pass
the whole through a search, with the juice of four
lemons ; leave them to infuse a full hour; then put
them through a gauze search, fill the ice moulds, and
put them to ice.
Ice Cream of Roses. Glace de Crême à la Rose.
Take two handsful of fresh picked roses ; boil a
pint of rich cream; then put in the roses and cover


STORE-ROOM.
307
them; leave them two hours to infuse: when the cream
is cold pass it through a search ; take the yolks of eight
eggs; beat and mix them with the cream; put in half
a pound of sifted sugar; set the cream upon a very
slow fire ; stir it without leaving it until it thickens,
but beware of its boiling ; pass it again through a
gauze search, and when cold put it into an icing pail,
and ice it.
Ice Cream of Orange Flowers. — Glace de Créme à
la Fleur d'Orange.
To four pints of good cream, put the yolks of eight
eggs, and half a pound of sugar, siſted or in lumps,
with a small handful of orange flower pralinée, which
has been well minced: do it over a slow fire, stirring it
till it is enough, as is directed above: ice it.
Grilled Cream of Orange Flowers.-- Créme grillée
à la Fleur d'Orange.
Follow exactly the same directions as in the pre-
ceding articles, in diminishing only the quantity of
sugar; reserving a part of the half pound of sugar to
bring it to the caramel, to give the cream the colour
and taste of the grillé.
Pistache Ice Cream. -Glace de Créme aur Pistaches.
To six pints of good cream, take a pound of pis-
taches; shell and put them into fresh water; dry
them in a cloth, and beat them as fine as is possible in
a mortar with a little cream, and some lemon grate;
add the yolks of six fresh eggs, and three quarters of a
pound of sifted sugar, which must be well mixed;
mix by little and little into the cream; put it on a
slow fire: when it is finished, put in a little green of
spinage to give it a fine colour; pass it through a
search; when cold ice it.
Ice Cream of Chocolate. — Glace de Chocolat à la
Créme.
Take four pints of rich cream to the yolks of eight
eggs, mix them with half a pound of sugar, in lumps
or sifted; and put it upon a slow fire, taking care not


308
FRENCH COOKERY.
to let it boil ; dissolve half a pound of good chocolate
de santé or of vanille, and mix it with the cream : pass
it through a gauze search, and ice it.
White Coffee Cream. Crême blanche au Café, à
l'Italienne.
Boil four pints of rich cream, and keep it hot on the
side of the furnace; add two small handsful of good
burnt coffee ; cover, and let it infuse two hours; take
the whites of eight eggs, and half beat them;
search out the coffee, and mix it well with the eggs;
put in half a pound of sugar, and thicken it on a
very slow fire ; pass it again through a search, and
ice it.
Citron Cream. Glace de Cedrats.
Take two very fresh citrons, put the zests into a
pound of sugar brought to the lissé; the sugar must
be hot when the zests are put in, and if there is any
juice, squeeze it also into the sugar; if necessary put
in the juice of six lemons, and let them infuse two
hours before passing them through the search, and ice
it. All ices require a time to liquify them properly.
Hazel Nut Ice. — Glace – Avelines.
Take a pound of filberts, shell them, and pralinez
them with half a pound of sugar; grill and put them
on a leaf to cool; break them in a mortar, and put
them into eight yolks of eggs, and four pints of rich
cream; thicken them as the other cream ices; if they are
not pralinée, toast them to take off the skin; rasp them
and put them into the cream'; let them cook together
with the eggs; rub them through a search, and ice
them.
Pine-apple Cream. — Glace – Ananas.
Put into a basin a pound of clarified sugar au petit
lissé; take a fresh pine-apple, which rasp and put
into the sugar to infuse for three or four hours, that
the taste and perfume may have been well impreg-
nated; pass it through the search, rubbing it well
with the back of a wooden spoon; if it is not acid


STORE-ROOM.
309
may re-
enough, put in the juice of one or two lemons with a
glass of water ; mix it well, and send it to ice.
Iced Cheese. Fromage glacé.
All that has been said upon the different compo-
sitions of ice, whether of flowers, fruit, or cream, it is
always the same preparation for them in moulds,
cannelons, and cheese; in observing that fruit in moulds,
as apricots, peaches, pears, oranges, lemons, cedrats,
&c., it is not necessary that they should be as thick as
for ices, which is served as snow in goblets, that they
may be able when taken out of their moulds to retain
their form : dip the cases quickly into warm water;
wipe them and turn a knife round the mouth of the
mould ; they will come out easily.
Iced Water Coffee. -Glace au Café à l'Eau.
Take two pints of well made clear coffee, mix two
yolks with four pints of good cream; put in the coffee
with a little more than alf a pound of sugar to weaken
the strength of it; taste it; when it is ready, it
quire more: let it cool, put it to ice.
Whipt Cream.—Mousse à la Crême.
Put four pints of rich cream into a basin, with hal.
a pound of sugar, a spoonful of orange-flower water,
and three drops of the essence of citron : when the
sugar is melted, beat three or four pounds of ice and
put into a large basin; put the cream into it, which
will make it froth up sooner ; beat it with a whisk, and
as it rises take off the froth with a pierced spoon or
skimmer, and put it into a search over a dish : if it
does not rise put in some whites of eggs to assist it;
if there is not enough take the cream that has run
through the search, whip it, and add to the other.
Mousses are generally served in large silver goblets,
made on purpose to contain them; ice beaten with
salt, or saltpetre, is put under and over, upon the top
of the cases: in this way they may remain two or
three hours before serving them.
Whipt Coffee Cream.--Mousse de Café.
Make four ounces of coffee, the strongest possible


310
FRENCH COOKERY.
and clarify it; mix six yolks of eggs with four pints
of rich cream and three quarters of a pound of sugar ;
put in the coffee, but do not weaken the cream too
much; the coffee must not surpass three cups, but it
must be very strong : finish it as the foregoing.
Whipt Chocolate Cream. -Mousse au Chocolat.
Beat half a pound of chocolate down in two pints
of water, upon a slow of fire ; stir it with spatula ;
when it is well dissolved and reduced, take it off the
fire, and put in six yolks of fresh eggs, four pints of
rich cream, and three quarters of a pound of sugar ;
put the whole in a basin, and when cold finish it, as
the others.
Whipt Marasquin Cream.-Mousse au Marasquin.
Put into a pint of rich cream half a pound of sifted
sugar, mix it, and put in glass of marasquin ; all be-
ing well mixed, whip the mousse, and finish it as
the foregoing.
SYRUPS.
Syrup of Violets.-Sirop de Violettes.
Take half a pound of field violet flowers ; put them
into such a vessel as can be corked; boil three quarts
of water ; let it stand ten minutes before it is put
over the violets, otherwise the infusion will be green,
which ought to be of a fine violet ; put the infu-
sion into the stove, that it may remain hot till the
next day; squeeze it then well through a towel that
it may give all the colour ; put it into another vessel
with three pounds of sifted sugar, which must be dis-
solved in it, and put it into the stove for twenty-four
hours; stir it from time to time ; let the stove be kept
hot as for candy: this will make two bottles of syrup;
and attention must be paid to putting it into bottles
that will endure the fort lissé, that it may not fer-
ment. This is the only syrup that is made without
being put upon the fire.
Capillaire.—Sirop de Capillaire.
Take a good handful of Canadian capillaire, which


312
FRENCH COOKERY.
it to the fort boulet, and when it has arrived at that
point, put in the milk of almonds ; leave it on the
fire, stir and skim it until it rises ; take it off, and put
in half a glass of orange-flower water, and pour it
into a basin; when cold put it into bottles : two
ounces of the quatre semences froides, or four seeds,
may be pounded with the almonds; it makes the
syrup more refreshing.
Syrup of Mallows.—Sirop de Guimauve.
Take half a pound of the root of mallows; scrape,
wash, and cut it in small pieces; put it on the fire with
three chopines of water : when the water is gummy,
pass it through a search; put the decoction into four
pounds of sugar, or white cassonade, and finish with
the white water, skimming it till clear ; then boil it
to the fort lissé, or the petit perlé ; pass it through a
strainer, and when cold bottle it.
Syrup of Verjuice. Sirop de Verjus.
Take three pounds of verjuice, very green, whici
must be peeled, and passed to obtain the juice ; pass
it two or three times through a bag, till it is very
clear; clarify four pounds of sugar, and boil it to the
fort soufflé, or au petit boulet; put in four pints of ver
juice, and give it a boil : the height of the sugar is the
same for all syrups, from the fort lissé, to the petit perle
Syrup of Mulberries. — Sirop de Mûres.
Take six pints of mulberry juice; put it upon
the fire with the same quantity of water, and
give it several boils, until it is altogether reduced
into four pints; clarify three pounds of sugar, and
bring it to the boulet; then put in the juice, give it a
boil, and skim it; bring it to its height, which is the
petit perlé ; but should it be more, put in a little water
to bring it back to its degree ; cool it in a basin, and
bottle it.
Rasp Syrup of Vinegar. Sirop de Vinaigre
framboisé.
Take three or four pounds of ripe rasps ; pick and
put them in a basin ; pour over them twelve pints of


SYRUPS.
313
fine red vinegar, otherwise use white; add two
pounds of currants ; let the whole infuse eight days,
in shaking and stirring it every day with a spatula ;
pass it through a search ; when it is well drained
clarify nine pounds of sugar and bring it to the fort
soufflé, or to the petit boulet : when at that point put
in the vinegar which has been passed through a bag,
and at the first boil be careful to take it from the
fire; skim it and put it immediately into a vessel,
that it may not remain in the pan: when cold bottle it.
Currant Syrup. -
Sirop de Groseilles.
Break in a search five or six pounds of red currants
and two pounds of cherries ; put this juice into the
cellar to ferment for eight days; at the end of that
time pass it through a bag ; put it into four pounds
of sugar au petit perlé, and at the first boil take it off
the fire and skim it The fruit is fermented to prevent
its becoming jelly in the bottles.
Orange Flower Syrup.—Sirop de Fleur d'Orange.
For three quarters of a pound of orange flowers
fresh picked, take four pounds of clarified sugar au
perlé, throw in the flowers, and give them a strong
boil; take them off the fire, and leave them to infuse
two hours; put the syrup again on the fire, and give
it a dozen of boils ; have a search put over a dish,
and pour it in to take out the flowers ; put it again
on the fire to finish, and bring it to its proper degree;
let it cool in a basin ; bottle it. Not to lose the
orange flowers put them in sifted sugar, rub them
well, and dry them in a stove.
Syrup of Pomegranates. Sirop de Grenades.
Take a sufficient quantity of fine ripe pomegranates,
of which the grains are very red ; five fine ones ought
to give four pints of syrup; break the grains ; put
them on the fire with two pints of water, and let them
boil seven or eight minutes; put it then through a
cloth, wringing it well to express all the juice; have
a pound and a half of sugar au soufflé, and put in the
juice ; boil it till it arrives at its proper point ; finish
it as the other.
P


314
FRENCH COOKERY.
1
Muscated Syrup of Vinegar.Sirop de Vinaigre au
Muscat.
Take four pints of fine sugar vinegar, and have
ready four pounds of sugar au fort soufflé ; put it in,
and bring it to its point: at the first boil take it off;
skim when cold, and bottle it.
LIQUEURS BY INFUSION-Liqueurs par Infu-
sion.
Ratifia de Fleur d'Orange.
With twelve quarts of brandy of twenty-two degrees,
put twelve ounces of orange-flowers into a stone bot-
tle ; cork it well, and leave it to infuse for two days ;
take three pounds and a half of sugar, dissolve it in
two pints and a half of water ; drain the orange-
flowers from the brandy, and mix the infusion with the
sugar ; pass it through a bag, or filter it through paper,
and bottle it.
Ratifia de Noyaux.
Take three quarters of a pound of kernels of apri-
cots, cut them in pieces, and infuse them in twelve
quarts of brandy for three weeks, shaking the jar from
time to time; dissolve three pounds and a half of sugar
in five quarts of water; mix, and filter as directed
above.
Ratifia d'Oranges de Portugal.
Zest twelve fine oranges; choose them thick skin-
ned; put them with eight quarts of brandy into a jar ;
dissolve two pounds of sugar in the juice of the
oranges; put all together ; cork the jar well, and
leave it to infuse for a month; then strain it properly
and bottle.
Citronnelle.
To the zest of twelve lemons put eight quarts of
brandy in the manner above-mentioned ; add two
pieces of cinnamon broken, and an ounce of coriander,
with two pounds of sugar, which must be dissolved in
three quarts of water during a month; clarify by a
bag, and, if
necessary,
the
paper filter, and bottle.


LIQUEURS BY INFUSION,
315
Ratifia des quatre Fruits.
Take five pounds of merisses, five of griottes, both
cherries, five of currants, and five of rasps; all ripe,
particularly the merisses and griottes, as it is these
that give the fine colour ; take the stalks off the cher-
ries, pick the currants and raspberries; break them all
separately, and mix them in an earthen pan for five
hours; after that, wring them out through a new cloth,
or press them; allow half a pint of brandy, and a
quarter of a pound of sugar, broken in pieces, to half
a pint of juice; being mixed well, put it into a stone
bottle, or a small barrel, for a month; let it clear, and
draw it off gently while it runs clear; let the remainder
be passed through a bag, till it become clear also ; put
all together, and bottle it.
Observations. - To aromatize it, put in the following
spiceries : i.e. half an ounce of fine cinnamon, two
drachms of mace, twenty cloves ; break and tie them
in a bit of linen, and fix them by a thread to the stone
bottle, or the bung of the cask, that it may be taken
out at will. This ratifia retains the flavour of the
fruit so well, that it is often preferred without the
spiceries.
Ratifia de Framboises.
Take six pounds of rasps ; pick them; put them into
a jar with twelve quarts of brandy, two drachms of
cinnamon, and one of mace bruised ; dissolve three
pounds of sugar in three quarts of water, which must
be added to the other ingredients; mix it, and leave it
for fifteen days to infuse, shaking it from time to time;
pass it through a bag, and bottle it.
Ratifia of Quinces. Ratifia de Coins.
Thirty large quinces will be necessary to make
eight quarts of juice; choose the smoothest, ripest,
and yellowest ; wipe them to take off
' the down, and
rasp them to the heart; keep out the seeds; leave
them in a vessel three days; at that time express
the juice through a new cloth, wringing it strongly;
measure it; if eight quarts, more or less, put in
as much water; dissolve in the juice twelve ounces
P 2


LIQUEURS BY INFUSION.
317
pound of the red leaves of the flowers ; leave them a
month in infusion; drain, and press the flowers well;
dissolve two pounds of sugar in eight pints of water ;
mix it well with it; strain and bottle.
Orange Flower Water. - Eau de Fleur d'Orange.
Put into an alembic, two pounds of fresh orange
flowers that have not been heated, with twenty-four
pints of river water; cover the alembic, and lute it
well (that it may not evaporate) with strips of paper'
and paste; put it upon the side of a furnace with a slow
fire, that it may not run but in a small thread or
quick drop ; refresh it often, or at least when the
water in the cooler gets warm, change it, as the qua-
lity of the water depends much upon that ; draw off
twelve pints, which will be excellent orange-flower
water. Continue to draw off four pints more, and keep
it to put into another distillation of the same kind, in-
stead of as much water.
Double Orange Flower Water. Eau de Fleur
d'Orange double.
Repeat the same distillation, from which is drawn
off sixteen pints, and put them upon a pound of fresh
flowers, and draw off twelve pints, or if to be very
good, only ten pints; continue and take off four pints,
which may be added to the simple orange-flower
water, taking care not to have too much fire, particu-
larly towards the end; as the flowers being then
nearly dry, they may burn and spoil all the rest :
changing the receivers often may prevent disap-
pointment.
Rose Water. Eau de Rose Simple.
The single rose is that which is employed whether
for liqueurs or rose water; they have much more per-
fume than those of the cent-feuilles ; the roses must be
gathered in dry weather, and picked, nothing but the
leaves being used : take four pounds of flowers to
four pints of water; put them into a vessel that can
be stopt, with some handsful of common salt; mix
them well and leave them three days; stir them often
P 3


318
FRENCH COOKERY.
with a spatula, then distil them upon an open fire;
put into the bottom of the alembic, a little new straw
to prevent the roses from burning, as the distillation
is lost if this happen ; take care not to fill the alem-
bic more than two-thirds, that in boiling the flowers
may not rise too high, as that spoils the quality of the
water ; for twelve pounds of prepared roses, take
twenty-four pints of water; when six have been drawn
off, stop ; four more may be drawn off separately,
which will assist in another distillation of roses.
Double Rose Water. Eau de Rose Double.
To make double rose water, put into the alembic
the same quantity of roses, prepared in the same man-
ner, having always care to change the refreshing wa-
ter often : instead of river water for drawing it off,
use simple rose water; but should there not be enough,
add a sufficient quantity of simple water, or more,
that there may be enough in the bottom to prevent the
leaves from sticking. If there is a bain marie then the
distillation can be carried on with a quick fire, with-
out any fear of accident; if the alembic is well luted,
there
may
be drawn off as much at first as the quan-
tity of rose water used in the distillation, that is to
say, the quantity put in; by this means it will be very
strong of the roses. If the bain marie is used, there
will be no necessity to put in the straw; after the
quantity of any distillation is drawn off, still four pints
of a weaker quality may be procured, which is not
worth the trouble where the flowers are plenty.
Very strong Rose Water. Eau ardente de Rose.
Take thirty pounds of picked roses; beat them in
a marble mortar, and put them in an earthen vessel;
beat four pounds of common salt, and lay in the roses
in layers, upon which strew the salt, press them well
down, and stop them quite close ; leave them for ten
or twelve days, and distil them in the bain marie as
the others, with a very quick fire; do not be anxious
for a great quantity, but that it should be strong and
have a fine perfume, and six drops in half a glass


LIQUEURS DISTILLÉES.
319
of water will be as strong as the same quantity of sim-
ple rose water.
LIQUEURS DISTILLÉES.
Citron Cream. Crême de Cédrats distillée.
For twenty-four pints of brandy at twenty-two de-
grees, take four fine large, or six smaller citrons, very
fresh, and of a fine perfume, zest and put into the
brandy with four pints of water in a jar well corked ;
let them infuse several days, and then distil in the bain
marie ; it ought to give eighteen pints ; dissolve three
pounds and a half of sugar in fourteen pints of water ;
put it in the spirit, pass it through a bag, or filter it.
It would be advisable, that those who distil would
attend to the first drops that come over the alembic,
which are nothing but phlegm, and ought not to be
mixed with the spirit; therefore take off a small
quantity before the receiving bottle is placed.
Oil of Citron. Huile de Cédrats.
There is no difference between this and the cream
of citrons but in the sugar, which instead of three
pounds and a half must be five: thus thickening, and
making it more oily.
Parfait-Amour.
Citron is the base of this liqueur; there are only
some other ingredients added, and the red colour that
makes it, differ from the white; half an ounce of fine
cinnamon, four ounces of coriander, bruised and in-
fused with the citrons, and distilled as for the cream:
the colour is made by two drachms of cochineal, two
drachms of cream of tartar, one drachm of alum, all in
fine powder, boiled in a small quantity of water; put it
through a linen cloth, and add; filter the liqueur
and bottle it.
Liqueurs des quatre Fruits Jaunes.
To twenty-four pints of brandy take two citrons,
four lemons, one fine bergamot, or two small ones,
two large Portugal oranges; zest all these fruits as
P 4


306
FRENCH COOKERY.
Ice of Pears. -Glace de Poires.
Ice
may
be made of all sorts of pears; there are,
however, some better than others, such as the but-
ter pear, the St. Germain, the creusanne, and the
rousselet ; take as many of any of these pears as is
necessary; peel and cut them in pieces; put them
upon the fire, with as much water as is sufficient to
make them fall; add the requisite quantity of sugar;
rub it through a search with a spatula; add the juice
of two lemons; put it to ice.
Lemon Ice.-Glace de Citron.
For fifteen lemons, clarify a pound and half of sugar;
put two thirds of it into a basin; put in two or three
zests; cut the lemons in bits, press the juice through a
search into the sugar; let them infuse an hour, and
put in the remainder of the sugar; taste that it is not
too strong of the lemon, and take care for all ices
that the sugar has only obtained the height of the
lissé; finish it as the other ices.
Orange Ice.-Glace d'Oranges de Portugal.
For twelve oranges, have a pound of clarified sugar,
into which throw the zests of three or four of them,
and take care that the sugar is more boiled than for
the lemon: as the oranges give more juice, the ice will
be too liquid; which will be avoided by boiling the
sugar to a higher degree; pass it through a gauze
search, and add oranges or sugar, as may be necessary;
and when finished, put it to ice.
Seville Orange Ice.-Glace de Begarades.
Take a pound and quarter of sugar; clarify it in
four pints of water with the white of an egg; take eight
juicy Seville oranges, put in the zests of two, and pass
the whole through a search, with the juice of four
lemons; leave them to infuse a full hour; then put
them through a gauze search, fill the ice moulds, and
put them to ice.
Ice Cream of Roses. Glace de Crême à la Rose.
Take two handsful of fresh picked roses ; boil a
pint of rich cream; then put in the roses and cover


STORE-ROOM.
309
enough, put in the juice of one or two lemons with a
glass of water; mix it well, and send it to ice.
Iced Cheese. —Fromage glacé.
All that has been said upon the different compo-
sitions of ice, whether of flowers, fruit, or cream, it is
always the same preparation for them in moulds,
cannelons, and cheese; in observing that fruit in moulds,
as apricots, peaches, pears, oranges, lemons, cedrats,
&cit is not necessary that they should be as thick as
for ices, which is served as snow in goblets, that they
may be able when taken out of their moulds to retain
their form : dip the cases quickly into warm water ;
wipe them and turn a knife round the mouth of the
mouid; they will come out easily.
Iced Water Coffee. — Glace au Café à l'Eau.
Take two pints of well made clear coffee, mix two
poids with four pints of good cream; put in the cofiee
with a little more than half a pound of sugar to weaken
the strength of it; taste it; when it is ready, it may re-
quire more: let it cool, put it to ice.
Whist Crean-Monase à la Créme.
Put four picts of rich cream into a basin, with bal
a pound of sugar, a spoonfai of orange-filower water,
ad three crope of the entence of citron : when the
rari meted beat three or four pounds of ice and
pen a uze basin; put the cream into it, which
make choch up socer: beat it with a while, and
2 in re tate of the froth wit a pierced from or
Der, ad put it into a much over a dit : it
CJE rite puta ose we of ezm to must it :
யாப் 2ம் பட்டி... ஊர் aai ta te are,
A 2 zoner. werted in marge ever gone
skade que parent to coran tema ke beste man
at or strert i pu mier are mer, 2 the top
of the Cake IL DIA VUT mey may renan tv
mat Coifea CroMrrand Cafi.
Mais jou ou se osifies the Frages quesidue.


310
FRENCH COOKERY.
and clarify it; mix six yolks of eggs with four pints
of rich cream and three quarters of a pound of sugar ;
put in the coffee, but do not weaken the cream too
much; the coffee must not surpass three cups, but it
must be very strong: finish it as the foregoing.
Whipt Chocolate Cream. -Mousse au Chocolat.
Beat half a pound of chocolate down in two pints
of water, upon a slow of fire ; stir it with a spatula ;
when it is well dissolved and reduced, take it off the
fire, and put in six yolks of fresh eggs, four pints of
rich cream, and three quarters of a pound of sugar ;
put the whole in a basin, and when cold finish it, as
the others.
Whipt Marasquin Cream.Mousse au Marasquin.
Put into a pint of rich cream half a pound of sifted
sugar, mix it, and put in glass of marasquin ; all be-
ing well mixed, whip the mousse, and finish it as
the foregoing.
SYRUPS.
Syrup of Violets.—Sirop de Violettes.
Take half a pound of field violet flowers ; put them
into such a vessel as can be corked; boil three quarts
of water; let it stand ten minutes before it is put
over the violets, otherwise the infusion will be green,
which ought to be of a fine violet ; put the infu-
sion into the stove, that it may remain hot till the
next day ; squeeze it then well through a towel that
it may give all the colour ; put it into another vessel
with three pounds of sifted sugar, which must be dis-
solved in it, and put it into the stove for twenty-four
hours; stir it from time to time ; let the stove be kept
hot as for candy: this will make two bottles of syrup;
and attention must be paid to putting it into bottles
that will endure the fort lissé, that it may not fer-
ment. This is the only syrup that is made without
being put upon the fire.
Capillaire.—Sirop de Capillaire.
Take a good handful of Canadian capillaire, which


SYRUPS.
311
is to be had at the druggists; boil it in four pints of
river water for a quarter of an hour; drain off all the
decoction, and pour it over four pounds of cassonade
to dissolve it ; have ready an entire egg, beaten in a
little water, to clarify the sugar ; skim it, and throw
in from time to time a little white water*, till there
rises no more scum; when it is enough, which is the
lissé, add as it comes off the fire a little orange-flower
water, and put it through a bag or napkin: bottle it
when nearly cold.
Syrup of Lemon.—Sirop de Lemon.
Take twenty-four fine juicy lemons, and zest three
of them into a basin, over which place a search ; cut
the lemons, and express the juice upon the zests: if
the juice is very thick it may be filtered through
paper ; clarify four pounds of sugar, and boil it to the
fort boulet; grain it and put it in a basin ; mix the
lemon juice with a little water to bring it to the de-
gree it ought to have ; fill a large flat pan half full of
water; put it upon a furnace, and put the syrup au
bain marie t, and stir it from time to time to dissolve
the sugar : when all is dissolved and the sugar hot
and clear, take it off the fire, and put it, when cold,
into bottles. As every one knows the effect of acid
upon brass or copper, they will see the propriety of
finishing this syrup au bain marie in an earthen vessel,
being sure by this method of avoiding the evil.
Orgeat-Sirop d'Orgeat.
Take a pound and half of sweet almonds and half
a pound of bitter ; beat them together in a mortar as
fine as possible ; heat about ten pints of water, which
mix by little and little into the pâte; rub the almonds
through a napkin, and wring it well to take out all the
milk; clarify four pounds and a half of sugar; bring
* White water is made by whisking a little white of egg, and
mixing it in water.
† The bain marie is water kept constantly at the same degree
of heat, where saucepans, or any vessel, may be put to cook or
keep warm.


314
FRENCH COOKERY.
Muscated Syrup of Vinegar.- Sirop de Vinaigre au
Muscat.
Take four pints of fine sugar vinegar, and have
ready four pounds of sugar au fort soufflé ; put it in,
and bring it to its point:
at the first boil take it off ;
skim when cold, and bottle it.
LIQUEURS BY INFUSION.Liqueurs par Infu-
sion.
Ratifia de Fleur d'Orange.
With twelve quarts of brandy of twenty-two degrees,
put twelve ounces of orange-flowers into a stone bot-
ile ; cork it well, and leave it to infuse for two days ;
take three pounds and a half of sugar, dissolve it in
two pints and a half of water ; drain the orange-
flowers from the brandy, and mix the infusion with the
sugar ; pass it through a bag, or filter it through paper,
and botile it.
Ratifia de Noyau..
Take three quarters of a pound of kernels of apri-
cots, cut them in pieces, and infuse them in twelve
quarts of brandy for three weeks, shaking the jar from
time to time; dissolve three pounds and a half of sugar
in five quarts of water; mix, and filter as directed
above.
Ratifia d'Oranges de Portugal.
Zest twelve fine oranges , choose them thick skin-
ned; put them with eight quarts of brandy into a jar;
dissolve two pounds of sugar in the juice of the
oranges ; put all together; cork the jar well, and
leave it to infuse for a month; then strain it properly
and bottle.
Citronnelle.
To the zest of twelve lemons put eight quarts of
brandy in the manner above-mentioned ; add two
pieces of cinnamon broken, and an ounce of coriander,
with two pounds of sugar, which must be dissolved in
three quarts of water during a month; clarify by a
bag, and, if necessary, the paper filter, and bottle.


316
FRENCH COOKERY.
of sugar to every four pints of fruit; then put in the
brandy; break some cinnamon, six cloves, and some
mace; tie it up in a bit of linen, and suspend it in the
vessel; this liqueur must not be used too new; it re-
quires two months in the jar well corked, before it
can be bottled.
Angelica. - Ratifia d'Angelique.
Take a handful of the angelica stems; take off the
leaves, and pick out the threads ; cut them in little
bits; to a pound, give twenty-four pints of brandy,
two drachms of cinnamon, and one of mace, with
twelve cloves; dissolve four pounds of sugar in eight
pints of water, and mix the whole in a jar that must be
well corked; leave them to infuse six weeks; after-
wards filter it, or put it through a bag, and bottle it.
Eau d'Anis par Infusion.
For sixteen pints of brandy, take six ounces of
Spanish or Verdun anise, which must be rubbed in a
search to take the dust from it; put it in the brandy with
two drachms of cinnamon, and the zests of two large
lemons, or three small ones; cork it well, and leave it
to infuse fifteen days; dissolve two pounds of sugar
in eight pints of water; put the sugar to the infusion;
pass it through a bag, or filter, and bottle it.
Ratifia de Raisin Muscat.
Take these grapes very ripe, and pick them from their
stalks; put them through a search to obtain the juice;
put equal quantities of juice and of brandy into a
jar, with two ounces of sugar to each pint, and two
drachms of broken cinnamon: these are all infused
together with the brandy for fifteen days; pass it
through a bag, and bottle it.
This liqueur may be made of the black muscat: let
them be very ripe.
Gilliflower. - Ratifia d'Eillets.
For twenty-four pints of brandy, take a pound of
carnation flowers, called ratifia pinks; take nothing
but the red of the flowers, which is put into the brandy,
with a drachm of bruised cloves; observe that it is a


LIQUEURS BY INFUSION.
317
pound of the red leaves of the flowers ; leave them a
month in infusion; drain, and press the flowers well;
dissolve two pounds of sugar in eight pints of water;
mix it well with it; strain and bottle.
Orange Flower Water. - Eau de Fleur d'Orange.
Put into an alembic, two pounds of fresh orange
flowers that have not been heated, with twenty-four
pints of river water; cover the alembic, and lute it
well (that it may not evaporate) with strips of paper :
and paste; put it upon the side of a furnace with a slow
fire, that it may not run but in a small thread or
quick drop ; refresh it often, or at least when the
water in the cooler gets warm, change it, as the qua-
lity of the water depends much upon that; draw off
twelve pints, which will be excellent orange-flower
water. Continue to draw off four pints more, and keep
it to put into another distillation of the same kind, in-
stead of as much water.
Double Orange Flower Water. Eau de Fleur
d'Orange double.
Repeat the same distillation, from which is drawn
off sixteen pints, and put them upon a pound of fresh
flowers, and draw off twelve pints, or if to be very
good, only ten pints; continue and take off' four pints,
which may be added to the simple orange-flower
water, taking care not to have too much fire, particu-
larly towards the end; as the flowers being then
nearly dry, they may burn and spoil all the rest :
changing the receivers often may prevent disap-
pointment.
Rose Water. Eau de Rose Simple.
The single rose is that which is employed whether
for liqueurs or rose water; they have much more per-
fume than those of the cent-feuilles ; the roses must be
gathered in dry weather, and picked, nothing but the
leaves being used : take four pounds of flowers to
four pints of water; put them into a vessel that can
be stopt, with some handsful of common salt; mix
them well and leave them three days; stir them often
P 3


LIQUEURS DISTILLÉES.
319
of water will be as strong as the same quantity of sim-
ple rose water.
LIQUEURS DISTILLÉES.
Citron Cream. Crême de Cédrats distillée.
For twenty-four pints of brandy at twenty-two de-
grees, take four fine large, or six smaller citrons, very
fresh, and of a fine perfume, zest and into the
brandy with four pints of water in a jar well corked;
let them infuse several days, and then distil in the bain
marie ; it ought to give eighteen pints ; dissolve three
pounds and a half of sugar in fourteen pints of water ;
put it in the spirit, pass it through a bag, or filter it.
It would be advisable, that those who distil would
attend to the first drops that come over the alembic,
which are nothing but phlegm, and ought not to be
mixed with the spirit; therefore take off a small
quantity before the receiving bottle is placed.
Oil of Citron. Huile de Cédrats.
There is no difference between this and the cream
of citrons but in the sugar, which instead of three
pounds and a half must be five: thus thickening, and
making it more oily.
Parfait-Amour.
Citron is the base of this liqueur; there are only
some other ingredients added, and the red colour that
makes it, differ from the white; half an ounce of fine
cinnamon, four ounces of coriander, bruised and in-
fused with the citrons, and distilled as for the cream:
the colour is made by two drachms of cochineal, two
drachms of cream of tartar, one drachm of alum, all in
fine powder, boiled in a small quantity of water; put it
through a linen cloth, and add; filter the liqueur
and bottle it.
Liqueurs des quatre Fruits Jaunes.
To twenty-four pints of brandy take two citrons,
four lemons, one fine bergamot, or two small ones,
two large Portugal oranges; zest all these fruits as
P4


324
FRENCH COOKERY.
$
{
half an ounce of benzoin, half an ounce of florax, and
a little pinch of walnut leaves ; bruise all these ingre-
dients, and leave them to infuse for some days; before
distilling, take for the syrup four pounds and half of
sugar, and fourteen pints of water: to give an oily
colour boil a pinch of saffron in a gill of water, with
which colour the liqueur; strain or filter, and bottle it.
Crême de Cocoa.
Take a pound of cocoa, ready for use ; put it into
twenty-four pints of brandy, with half an ounce of
vanilla; let it infuse for some days and then distil it ;
dissolve three pounds and half of sugar in fourteen
pints of water, mix ; filter or strain, and bottle.
Crême d'Absinthe.
For twenty-four pints of brandy, and four of water,
take a small handful of fresh wormwood, but if dry an
ounce is sufficient, with half an ounce of cinnamon
and two drachms of mace; infuse and distil ; mix with
the common syrup, which is three pounds and half
of sugar with fourteen pints of water.
Crême de Framboises.
For twenty-four pints of brandy and four pints of
water, put in four pounds of rasps, and let them in-
fuse twenty-four hours ; odistil ; make the mixtures as
before directed, and filter, or strain.
Curaçoa, que l'on nomme le plus ordinairement
Cuirasseau.
Cuirasseau, or bigarade, is nearly allied to the bit-
ter orange, the dry skin of which is only used, it may
be bought at the druggists; take a pound, wash it
well in warm water; drain, and put it in a jar with
thirty-two pints of brandy and two of water ; let it in-
fuse fifteen days, shaking it from time to time; strain
it, and make a syrup of five pounds and half of sugar
and twelve pints of water ; if the brandy is lower than
twenty-two degrees, it will be necessary to keep
some of the water out of the syrup, otherwise the


DOMESTIC ECONOMY.
325
liqueur will be too weak; and all the foregoing re-
ceipts are given for spirits of that gauge.
Liqueur de Menthe distillée.
For twenty-four pints of brandy and four of water,
take two small handsful of fresh garden mint; infuse
it some days in the brandy, then distil; put it
into a syrup of three pounds and half of sugar
and fourteen pints of water, and filter or strain, as
usual.
Eau des sept Graines.
For twenty-four pints of brandy take an ounce of
green anise, an ounce of fennel, an ounce of carrot,
an ounce of carraway, half an ounce of angelica, an
ounce and half of coriander, and a drachm of mace;
bruise and put them all to infuse in the spirits, with a
pint of water, for some days; distil; make the syrup
as above; mix, and filter.
DOMESTIC ECONOMY.
Cucumbers.—Manière de faire les Cornichons.
Take gherkins, very green, and rub them well to
take off the down, either with a brush or the hand,
in fresh water, until they are perfectly clean; put
them then into an earthen pot with a little garlic, a
small handful of sea fennel, as much of tarragon, and
a little long pepper: these different seasonings must
be in proportion to the quantity and strength re-
quired; heat the vinegar without letting it boil, and
put it over the gherkins ; cover them well up; leave
them well stopped two or three days ; after that time
pour it off; boil and skim it well, and pour it again
over them; three days after repeat the same oper-
ation; the third time, when the vinegar is boiled and
well skimmed, throw in the gherkins, and leave them
upon the fire till they begin to tremble, but not to
boil; take them off quickly, and put them into pots.
Bitter Oranges Pickled.— Bigaraux au Vinaigre.
Take the quantity of ripe bigaraux, or bitter


326
PRENCH COOKERY.
oranges, that is to be pickled; take off the ends of
the stalk and put them into a jar ; pour good vine-
gar over them ; add to them a small handful of cori-
ander and a little cinnamon, beaten together, and
tied in a cloth, eight days; after pour off the vinegar
and give it a few boils ; put it to cool in a basin, and
then pour it over the oranges : it is necessary to bung
the jar well.
Turkey Wheat.-Blé de Turquie au Vinaigre, que
l'on sert pour Hors-d'Œuvre.
Take the quantity of Turkey corn that is to be pre-
served, when it is well formed; i. e. when it is about
the size of a small cucumber; strip off the leaves that
are wrapt round it, take off the beard, wipe it well, and
put it into a bottle, with a little salt, and some cloves,
and fill it with fine white vinegar; leave it for some
days; then drain it, and give the vinegar a dozen of
boils ;
let it cool, and pour it over the corn; in a few
days after, repeat the same operation; it must be well
corked.
Canapés pour Hors-d'@uvre.
Take the crumb of a large loaf, cut it in slices the
thickness of three quarters of an inch ; afterwards cut
them into any form, and fry them of a nice colour in
oil or butter; mince separately the hard yolks of eggs,
whites; cucumbers, capers, anchovies in strips, differ-
ent fine sweet herbs, small salad, &c., and put them in
a little oil; season the canapés (fried bread) with salt,
pepper, and vinegar ; dress it handsomely, and garnish
it tastefully with hard eggs, ham, beet-root small
herbs, anchovies, capers, &c. &c., and serve upon
dishes for hors-d'ouvre.
Dressed Cucumbers. Concombres Marinés.
Skin some cucumbers and cut them very small, put
them in a dish, and season them with salt, pepper, and
vinegar ; leave them in it for some hours; when ready
to serve, put them into a cloth and express all the vine.
gar from them; dish, and put over them a little oil and
pepper, and serve for salad or hors-d'oeuvre.


328
FRENCH COOKERY.
Wine is not good till it has acquired its maturity,
and till it loses its phlegm: when new, it ferments upon
the stomach and goes to the head; and when too old,
by the loss of its qualities, it attacks the nerves; yet
we are not able to give a decided judgment on
this point, as so much depends upon the seasons; some
seasons giving wine that may be drunk in two or thre:
years ; and others which cannot be drunk till four or
five, which depends upon the vintage ; it is not possible
for those who depend alone upon taste to determine.
The French wines merit the reputation they hold,
particularly among strangers. The amateurs prefer
those of Burgundy, because they have the advantage
of being high flavoured and light.
Every vintage has its particular mark, in what is
called high Burgundy. The wines of Auxerre and
Tonnerre are in high estimation ; but as the limits
of such a publication as this will not permit of a very
extensive description, those wines will only be men-
tioned which are used at grand entertainnients. The
wines of Beaune in good years rival the best vintages;
this wine is of a fine red colour, and possesses the best
qualities; it bears water, and keeps a long time with-
out any alteration; it is always better to drink it in its
fourth or fifth year.
After it come the wines of
Pomard, Volnay, Nuit, Chassagne, St. Georges, de
Vonne, du Chambertin, Clos de Vougeot, and Ro-
manée. The Romannee-Conty is the best of all the
Burgundy wines.
White Wines. Those of Chablis are very agree-
able; those of Meursault are better, but the Chevalier
Morachet surpasses them in general ; there are few
white wines made in that district.
Champagne.
After the Burgundy comes the Champagnes; their
chief quality is that of raising the spirits; they are
almost all white, although they cultivate nothing but
black
grapes,
but from the manner of manufacturing
them, they give them the partridge eye which distin-


WINES.
329
guishes them; the red is not much esteemed, except
those of Bouzy, Verzai, and Vergenai ; they are warm
in the mouth, although light and of an agreeable
flavour. This wine is aperient, does not bear water,
and intoxicates easily. Those that are most esteemed,
grow near Reims, as Ay, Sillery, and Espernay; those
wines keep better since they have been made of black
grapes; they seldom came formerly sound till three
years; few wines are as susceptible as these are; they
become thick, and afterwards depose a sediment in the
bottle, and threads in it that render it nauseous; much
should not be bought at a time, unless it is of an un-
common fine vintage, and low price.
Bourdeaux Wines.
These wines are as highly esteemed as Burgundy:
In the first class, the most renowned vineyards for red
wines are Lafitte-du-Château, Tours, Château-Mar-
gau ; Aubrion-du-Château; Premier Grave, and Ségur-
Médoc.
Second class : Mouton-Canon, Médoc-Canon, Saint
Emilion, Rosans, Margau, la Rose-Médoc, Pichon-
Longueville, Médoc-Potelet, Saint Julien-les-ville, and
Saint Julien; vin de Pape (Grave rouge), vin de la
Mission, (Grave rouge), and all the haut Pesac; as to
the rest, there are little distinctions.
Third class: these wines are generally served at
the second course. The numerous wines of Pouillac
are of an excellent quality: the most appreciated are
those of de Gescourt, Saint Estève-Catanac, and a great
many others; it is only meant to be remarked here,
that all who possess those wines, must let them be
five or six months in bottle before they drink them, as
they always sicken during the first two or three
months, and taste worse than from the wood.
White Wines. Vins Blancs.
The Haut-Barsac, and the Haut-Preignac, which is
called M. Duroy, is of the first quality, the Sauterne ;
and the second, the Barsac, Langon, Carbonieux, and
Podecilac. After the wines of Bourdeaux, come those


330
FRENCH COOKERY.
of Languedoc, l'Hermitage, de la Côte Rôtie, du
Dauphiné, and of Provence. The most known are the
hermitage of a fine red and high flavour; they must
be kept some years, as otherwise they are harsh, but de-
licious when of a proper age. The white wines are
more heady, and verge to the yellow. Those of Rou-
sillon are stronger and thicker; it is necessary to keep
them a long time, and not to bottle them till they are
fine, which happens in consequence of proper treat-
ment, sooner or later; this wine keeps thirty years,
and often much longer; at that age, it acquires the
taste of Alicante; it ought always to be decanted with
care, as it deposes a sediment in bottle; the white
is not subject to this inconvenience.
The wines of Languedoc are all very good, and
favourites of the fair sex: the most esteemed are those
of Frontignac, of which there are both red and white.
This wine unfortunately grows thick and is heady.
Then comes the Lunel, red 'and white: there are years
in which it is as good as the Frontignac.
The Jurançon of Béarn, Basses Pyrénnées, is an ex-
cellent white wine; it is principally distinguished by a
flavour of truffle, and has the advantage of keeping
long. — The wines of Provence are good, but the red
are rather strong; the white for the most part are mus-
ky; those in chief repute are the gemenos,
which are
called the wines of Toulon ; the marque of Barbau-
tan, and many others which are drunk at desserts or
collations. — The wines of Tavelle are heady, but ex-
cellent; those of Côte-Rôtie, Saint Peyret, and Con-
drieux are most esteemed: formerly they were served
at the best tables with entremets ; they are now
replaced by those of Bourdeaux.— Those of Barre,
Moselle, and the Rhine, are highly esteemed. - The
wines of Barre are agreeable and light, but do not bear
transportation. The Moselle are white, light, aperient,
and very good. The most esteemed of the Rhine are
white: of the Hungarian wines the St. George's is that
which is sold at a high rate for tokai: it resembles it
very much, but the great difference is known to the


WINES.
331
connoisseurs and gourmands; at St. George two kinds
are made ; those that are destined to carry the name
of Wermoute are made by adding a thimble-full of the
extract of wormwood to a half bottle, corking it well,
which gives it that bitter taste, and excellent quality
of fortifying the stomach and facilitating the digestion.
There is no vineyard of that name, nor any grape that
has the taste. The tokai is well known by name, but
few know the quality from drinking it. It is an excel-
lent wine, but cannot be bought, as the Emperor of
Germany is the sole possessor of the territory in which
it is cultivated. The Emperor of Russia possesses a
small portion of this territory as a gift from the Em-
peror of Austria, so that these two sovereigns are at
present the possessors of this invaluable wine, of which
they make presents to the ambassadors of different
courts, &c. &c. and sometimes, though rarely, finds its
way from sales into the market. This wine, excellent
as it is, does not easily bear fermentation or clearing:
should a bottle not completely filled be left, in a few
days it will be hardly recognizable. It is said that
the wines grown on the higher vineyards are not sub-
ject to this inconvenience.
The wines of Greece most esteemed are those of
Cyprus; they keep fifty years, and even more, and have
always been in great repute. They are very pleasant
and agreeable ; but extremely dear, and very often
adulterated: they are nourishing and balsamic, smell a
little of the skin or outre in which they are kept; and
although disagreeable to some, it is perhaps the surest
mark of their genuineness.
After this wine comes that of Stançon; it is stronger
than that of Cyprus, and has a very agreeable Ha-
vour. There is another of the same isle, which passes
for nectar ; it is called Chio. The ancients sought this
wine for libations and sacred purposes : little of it
comes to Europe. There is also the Malvoisie of Cy-
prus; it is a muscated wine, that is much esteemed :
it is often sold for that of Syracuse.
Madeira is well known. This wine to be good ought


WINES.
333
of Bénicarlos are sweet. There are also throughout
Italy very fine wines, the most esteemed are those of
Falerno, so vaunted by Horace. That of Albano, or
primitive Rome, was the first wine made by the Ro-
mans, and drunk at their solemn festivals; it is still in
estimation ; this wine is light, pleasant, and seldom
goes to the head; there are both white and red; it is
given to the sick.
There are also Tuscan wines, that do not cede to
any of the above, which are those of Monte Fiascone,
which the Tuscans esteem above all others, but that
is perhaps an error, as it is in no way superior to the
others; but in that of intoxicating sooner. That of
the territory of Venice is excellent and piquant. The
Neapolitan wines the most known are those of Lacry-
ma-Christi and Gaëte; they are red, light, and of a
pleasant flavour.
Management of Wines.
The first racking or change of the wines ought to take
place the middle of March, after the first vintage; for
this purpose casks ought to be taken that have been
lately emptied; rince them with the greatest care, and
scrape out all the tartar that may be attached to them,
as it is hurtful to the quality, delicacy, and perfume
of the wine; they should be equally cleaned on the
outsides, and the bottoms must be freed from the moss
and mushrooms that may have grown on them : no-
thing must be left dirty to the hoops; all must be
cleaned with the greatest care: after these precautions
the casks must be sulphured by a long match, narrower
at one end than the other; it ought to be done when
the weather is clear and dry; when ready to fill rince
it with half a bottle of Cogniac brandy, drain it out
well, and draw off the wines from the lees, with a
bellows or pump; then cork the wine with a new bung,
wrapt round with lessived linen, that is, washed with
the lees of wood ashes, not soap; as the casks are filled,
arrange
them
upon their stands; great care must be
taken to keep them full ; every month they ought to be
filled up, as they are continually losing: attention


334
FRENCH COOKERY.
cask ;
must also be given to have some of the same wine in
reserve for that purpose, for if an inferior wine is put
in, it will spoil it. In the September following, or in
six months from the first drawing off, it must be racked
again in the same manner. It is in the repetition of
this operation several times, that the wine acquires
that quality and fineness that brings it to maturity,
which
prepares it for fining. For all sorts of red wine
whisk five whites of eggs, and mix them with four pints
of river water; draw off from the cask, to be fined,
three bottles of wine: take a stick the size of a sweep-
ing-broom-handle, and cut it at one end in four, so
that it will distend like a claw-foot; these being held
together can be introduced into the bunghole; after
the whites of the eggs have been put in, with this stick
agitate the wine so that it may be entirely mixed with
it; but do not descend so low as the bottom of the
when it is well mixed the ends of the cask are
beaten to shake the wine, and giving a tremendous
stroke to the top, bung the cask : this operation
ought to take place in fine calm weather, and it ought
to be left eight or ten days. All these directions and
remarks are equally applicable to red and white wines;
the only difference is that of the materials used for
fining. Therefore, when there is white wine to be
fined, employ isinglass, a piece of which, beaten and
incorporated in twelve pints of water, is sufficient to
fine three pieces of wine; take the necessary quan-
tity, and prepare it, as for fining jellies, with river
or spring water, which ought to measure about
four pints when put into the cask, that it may be
the more easily spread throughout the mass; when
it has been all well worked with the stick as before
indicated, beat and stop it: it ought to be pierced to
give it air, as it facilitates the fining. If however,
after every care, the wine is still thick, boil four
English pints of milk or cream, and when cold, take
off the cream; put it into the cask : it will then
not be long in clearing : on the contrary, if it is red
wine that is thick, take grey paper, without smell,


WINES.
| 335
and roll it up sheet by sheet, introducing them at
the bunghole, and allowing each as it goes in to dis-
tend before another is introduced: let them fall to the
bottom, and do not draw off the wine till it is clear.
There are many other ways of fining wine; but as
these are simple, both in application and effect,
Monsieur Beauvilliers does not reveal his knowledge
on that head.
The thickness of wines arises from known and un-
known causes; the known are the want of attention
to the proper times of racking, the not filling up of
the casks, their being put into hot cellars in summer,
and drawing from them for use; these causes depend
entirely upon proper management; but there are
others which cannot be so well accounted for, such
as the
consequences
which follow hot and dry sum-
mers, or cold and wet ones; when the natural com-
binations are obstructed, and the active powers lan-
guish ; but care and judicious treatment will in the end
succeed: the malady once fixed there
may
be dan-
ger of a relapse; and all wines that have given much
trouble in fining, ought to be used as soon as possible.
If in piercing the wine does not spring out clear,
as it ought to do, but comes sickly, drop by drop,
then, besides what has been indicated above, beat an
ounce of cream of tartar, put it into a bottle nearly
filled with wine that has been racked, shake it well
till it dissolves ; put in two pints of brandy, and
twelve bottles, less or more, of wine of the same year:
this operation ought to be successful in clearing the
wine.
Observations upon the Manner of bottling Wines.
When a piece has been fined, it ought to be raised
a little behind, so that it may incline to the fosset ;
this inclination should not be more than two inches;
this precaution is necessary to prevent the necessity
of troubling the wine when it becomes clear. It is
not necessary to give a detail of piercing casks, as no
one unaccustomed to such work would attempt to re-
fine and bottle wines.


336
FRENCH COOKERY.
Remark.-Shot lead is often used in cleaning bot-
tles, is very dangerous, and as it has happened that
some of the grains have remained, the custom ought
to be entirely given up, as it is a certain poison.
Manner of preparing Wax for Bottles.—Manière
de préparer le Goudron pour goudronner les Bouteilles.
Take a pound of rosin, and an equal quantity of
arcanson, half or three-quarters of a pound of tallow;
mix them in a small varnished earthen pot ; let these
ingredients melt over a moderate fire; stir till they
are perfectly mixed ; watch it well, and take it off
the fire before it boils, to prevent the consequences
of its flying over into the fire, which may endanger
the house.
Mix this preparation with red or yellow ocre, Spa-
nish whitening, or soot; if soot is used it is recom-
mended to put in rather more tallow, which for eco-
nomy is to be such as is considered in families useless,
as the ends of candles, or the scrapings from candle-
sticks. This is by no means nasty, because nothing
is so easily purified as tallow and all unctious matters,
but such economy is little understood in England.
Note.—The wax ought to be made of different co-
lours, as where there are great varieties of wine
used, it is an easy way of preventing mistakes.
SUPPLEMENT.
Different Ways of making. Vinegar.—Différentes
Manières de faire la Vinaigre; le première Manière
est d'Orléans.
Take such a cask of wine, white or red, as is ne-
cessary; fine it as directed in the article that treats
of wines ; when it is clear put in a wooden fosset, as
a brass cock is dangerous; draw off a third of it, bot-
tle and cork it well; then fill up the vinegar with
good wine of the same colour; stop it lightly with
a cork, wrapt round with paper or linen, and set
it in a temperate place, rather cold than hot, and let


VINEGARS.
337
it be a foot and a half from the ground; at the end of
another month take off another third, and again fill it
up, and go on doing so.
This method may serve for twenty-five or thirty
years, if the cask is bound with iron, and that no
thick or musty wine is put into it.
Second Way. Deuxième Manière.
According to the quantity of vinegar, procure
some yew timber, reduce it into shavings ; put it into
a cask of wine that can be lifted in the hands : this
will give good vinegar.
Third Way.
Troisième Manière.
For very strong vinegar put into a cask of wine
thirty pods of ripe long pepper, which ought to be of
a fine red, and a quarter of a pound of ginger ; leave
it fifteen days, then draw out the pepper, which has
been suspended by a thread in the cask on purpose,
and the bag of ginger; dry them that they may be
in readiness to be used again for the same purpose.
- Note this attention.
Fourth Way:— Quatrième Manière.
To make vinegar in a very short time, and make it
return again to wine, (used by vinegar merchants
when vinegar paid less duty than wine.) A day or
two before they sent their wine into Paris, they put
into each piece a handful of beet-roots, by which
they were soured in a very
short time;
when housed
they drew these out, and replaced them by a handful
or the same quantity of cabbage-roots.
Fifth Way.--Cinquième Manière (Excellent.)
To a barrel of wine, put in an ounce of cinna-
mon, two ounces of long pepper, one ounce of ginger,
two ounces of black pepper in grains, and three or
four nutmegs grated to powder; when all these
spices are prepared, put them into a hair bag, boil
them two or three times in about twelve pints of good
vinegar, then boil the same quantity of good wine ;
put it into a barrel half filled, which may be filled up
Q


VINEGARS.
339
half an
Vinegar of Lavender for the Toilet.
Prepare a jar of a proper size, and to every pint of
vinegar add half an ounce of fresh lavender flowers,and
some zests of lemon; leave them to infuse twenty-four
hours : put the jar, well luted, upon hot cinders for
eight or ten hours without boiling ; pass it through a
bag, or filter ; bottle, and keep it closely waxed.
Thieves' Vinegar. -Vinaigre des quatre Voleurs.
Take an ounce of the tops of wormwood; rosemary,
sage, mint, and rue, of each half an ounce; flowers of
lavender, two ounces; aromatic gum, cinnamon, cloves,
nutmegs, and fresh garlic, two drams of each;
ounce of camphor, and eight pounds of red vinegar ;
beat all these ingredients well, and put them into a
proper earthen jar, and pour the vinegar upon them;
the garlic ought to be sliced ; and after stopping the
jar, put it in the sun or in a hot place, such as a sand
bath, for three or four weeks ; wring out the ingre-
dients, and filter it through grey paper; the camphor
must be dissolved in a little spirits of wine. This vine-
gar ought to be kept closely corked.
Tarragon Vinegar.
Put into a proper jar twenty-four pints of good
white vinegar; take a pound and half of fresh tarragon
leaves, which must have been dried in the shade; take
care that they do not heat; when it is ready, put it into
the vinegar, adding a small bunch of cloves, and the
zests of two lemons; then stop the jar well, and set it
in the sun fifteen days, or it may be put two or three
times in a cool oven, when it will be ready for use.
It has been usual to put in salt, but that is not neces-
sary; pour off the vinegar, express the leaves, and
filter it through grey paper, a fustian bag, or take
a large hair search, cover it completely with double
filtering paper, put in the vinegar softly by degrees;
and when it runs clear, bottle and cork it well.
Vinaigre Surard
Is made as in the last receipt, in putting in a third
less of the elder flowers than of the tarragon.
Q 2


PRESERVES.
343
Added to the facility of digestion, which is of great
importance for flatulent stomachs, its antiscorbutic
qualities, which Captain Cook was so well aware of,
that he preserved his men three years in health at sea,
by the use of it two or three times a week.
Preserved Sorrel. - Oseille pour Conserve.
Clean and pick the quantity of sorrel to be pre-
served ; let it be well washed and drained; throw it
into boiling water, and let it be three-fourths done ;
put it into a drainer, leave it there twenty-four hours,
then hash it; put it into a brass pan, and set it on the
fire with a little salt, and reduce it, turning it con-
stantly with a wooded spatula, that it may not stick
or burn, till it is of a proper consistence, such as that
of sain-doux froid.* Let it cool a little, and fill the
pots; put it in a cool place; two days after, cover it
with clarified butter; some days after this, cover it
with strong paper, and over it parchment or leather ;
keep it in a cool dry place.
Preserved Endive.
Creserve.
Take the quantity of endive necessary; pick away
all the green and coarse leaves; cut off the points, and
dress the roots in such a manner that they continue
whole; wash them in several waters; throw them into
boiling water; give them two boils; take them
up,
and
put them into fresh cold water; put a cloth into a
drainer, and put them in to drain ; leave them all
night, press out all the water by squeezing them; ar-
range them into pots, pressing them well down; make
a strong pickle of salt and water (article Salt Water),
let it cool ; fill the pots with it till within an inch
and a half of the top; two days after put in an inch of
good oil, and cover them as directed in the foregoing
receipt. When they are to be used, steep them for
six or eight hours in fresh water ; from that throw
them into boiling water, and proceed to cook them
as if they were in their season.
• Cooled hogs-lard,
Chicorée pour
Q 4


346
FRENCH COOKERY.
To preserve Artichokes. Artichauts à l'Italienne.
Take artichokes and cut them in four or six pieces,
according to their size; take out the choke; put them
into boiling water, and let them boil five minutes
put them into a salt pickle, and preserve them as the
others.
To preserve Artichoke Bottoms. Culs d'Artichauts.
Boil the artichokes till the choke comes easily out,
but take care that they do not become too soft, as
that would prevent them from preserving ; when they
are prepared, rub them with a lemon, put them in
jars, and follow the same process as for artichokes.
To preserve Tomates. Tomates
pour
Conserve.
Take the quantity to be preserved, let them be
ripe, and of a fine colour; cut them in two; express
the juice, and take out the seeds; then put them into
a sweet-meat-pan that is untinned; put in a good
mirepoix (article Sauce) highly seasoned without any
other liquid, and a sufficient quantity of salt: reduce
them to the thickness of a purée, stirring it constantly
with a spatula ; rub it through a search; return it
into an untinned or brass pan, and reduce it to the
consistence of apple marmalade; put it in pots,
and in two days cover it with clarified butter and
oil-paper ; parchment it, and keep as other preserves.
To preserve Verjuice.
Choose the quantity of verjuice that will be neces.
sary to fill
the bottles; let it be green and hard ; rub
off the raffles and stalks ; put them into a mortar with
a little salt (or without it, if you intend to make
lemonade with it, or to drink in any way); take it out
of the mortar; wring the juice out well over a search;
beat them anew, or put them in a press, if not, wring
them in a new cloth; take a fustian bag, wet it, and
flour it in the inside where it is woolly; hang it up;
pour in the juice; put under it an earthen vessel, and
return it into the bag, till it becomes clear as rock-
water, and for that, two vessels are required; when


TWO SERVICES FROM SIX TO EIGHT COVERS.
FIRST COURSE.
Crawfish
Soup. Potage à la Bisque
d'Ecrevisses.
Remove Salmon.
Saumon.
Lobster Sauce
Homards.
Beef Palates with
Cucumbers.
Hattelets de Palais de
Boeuf aux Concombres.
Sweetbreads.
Ris de Veau a la
Dauphine.
Plateau,
Lamb Kidneys.
Rognons de l'Agneaux.
Mutton Cutlets.
Côtelettes a la Soubise,
Soup.
Potage à la Reine.
Remove
Pouiardes à la Turque.
Roasted Fowls with Rice.
SECOND COURSE.
Woodcocks.
Remove Rice Soufflé.
Small Biscuits.
Pains a la Duchesse.
Calves' Feet Jelly.
Gelée de Pieds de Vcau.
Plateau.
Verjuice Jelly.
Gelée de Ver-jus.
Meringals.
Méringues.
Apple or Gooseberry Sauce.
Green Goose.
Oison à la Broche.
1
Apple-tart.
Tourte des Pommes.
A cook should never think of implicitly following any bill of fare, it
would be quite impossible; they only serve to shew the proper arrangement of
the table, and the relative situation of dishes, which, after the knowledge of
cooking, is of greatest importance, thousands of different combinations may be
made from the foregoing pages.


SECOND COURSE, FROM THIRTLIISE D EZT
Spinage in Cruzst.
Epinards
Croustade.
Chickens
with Queen's Sauce.
Pouets
à la Reine.
Cherry fritters.
Beigneta
de
Cerises.
Olives.
Banded Tarta.
Tartelettes
Bandes.
Rabbits.
Levredu.
Stewed Lettuce.
Laitues
rEspagnole.
1
Cock's Combs
in Jelly,
Remove.
Bush of Crawfish.
Buisson d'Ecrevisses,
Small Beans.
Feves
Maria
à la Poulette.
Smelta.
Eperlans.
Small Biscuit.
Choue
Reines.
Jalousies.
Cauliflower with
Butter
Chou fleur
du Beurre.
Blamnange.
Blanc-manger
Petite Pote.


INDEX.
363
Calf's liver larded, à la bour. Carrot cake, gåteau de carottes,
........
gravy, 256
.............,
geoise ou à l'étouffade, 63 227
....... with Italian sauce, à à la Flamande, 265
l'Italienne, 64
à l’Orleans, 265
roasted, à la broche, Cauliflower, with butter sauce, 256
Calf's lights, mou de veau à la
in
poulette, 64
with Parmesan, 256
in brown sauce, au
fried in butter, 256
roux, 65
Caviare, or Kaviar, 188
Calf's tail, with peas, queues de Cayenne pepper, to make, 36
veau aux petits pois, 67 Celery fritters, 243
with poulette sauce,
Charlotte of apples, charlotte de
à la poulette, 67
pommes aux confitures ou sans
Calf's head, tête de veau au na confitures, 237
turel, 59
Cheese cake, gâteau au fromage,
............., stuffed, farcie, 59 223
... ........., mock turtle, en tor- Cherries, compote of, 273
tue, 60
........, marmalade of, 283
Cannelons, 235
.......... en chemise, 291
Casserole au Riz, 73
**•*••au caramel, 292
Capons boiled, chapon au gros
........, fritters, 241
sel, 141
Chesnuts in sugar, 282
with rice, au riz, 141
cakes, 299
with truffles, aux truffes, Chocolate, conserve of, 286
141
for drinking, 327
Caramel, how distinguished from Chou-croute, 341
sucre cassé, 272
Cider vinegar, 340
different fruit, 292 Cloves, oil of, 321
Cardoons, Spanish, 262
Cinnamon, liqueur, 320
with Parmesan, 263 Citron, conserve of, 285
in butter, 263
cream, 319
poirées, 263
oil of, 319
à la béchamelle, 263 Citronelle de Venise, 320
Carp, 171
Cochineal, to prepare, 293
à la chambor, 171
Cocoa, crême de, 324
......, stuffed, farcie, 172 Cockscombs and kidneys, au ve-
......, au bleu, ou court louté, 152
bouillon, 172
......, fried, frite, 173
aspic, 152
......, grilled, grillée, 173
....... matelote de carpe et d'an ly, petits aspics, 159
guilles, 173
Cod, cabillaud ou morue, fraiche
à la marinière, 174 à la Hollandaise, 188
... ..., fricandeau, 174
ring en dauphin, 189
......, melts, fried, laitances frites,
au gratin et à la Becha-
175
melle, 189
......, roes in jelly, aspic de lai-
+ morue à la maitre-hotel,
tances, 175
189
au
**** omg grand
*****in jel
............,
R 2


SE EVICE OF EIGHTEEN COVERS TO TWENTY.
FIRST COURSE.
Soup, Potage de Ravioles.
Remove Turkey stuffed
with Truffles.
Dinde aux Truffes.
Petits Pâtés d'une Bouchée
Sauce.
au Hashis à la
Reine.
Croquettes aux Truffes en
Côtelettes.
Veal with Mushrooms.
Petites Noix d'Epaule
de Veau à la Purée de
Champignons.
Beef Scollops with
Potatoes.
Escalopes de Filet de Boeuf
auz Pommes de Terre.
Wild Ducks with Orange
Sauce.
Canardes sauvages, Sauce
Bigarade.
Two Fowls.
Deuz Poulets, Sauce
à l'Ivoire.
Påte
Hot
Eels.
Pâté chaud mai-
gre de Carpes et
d'Anguilles.
Dormant
hachee.
Broche, Sauce
Filet de Bæuf a la
Beef.
Roasted Fillet of
of
Two Squares of Mutton,
one larded with Parsley,
the other with Bacon.
Deux Carrés de Mouton,
un piqué de Persil, l'autre
de Lard.
Chartreuse of Tendons of
Veal with Oysters.
Chartreuse de fendons de
Veau aux Huitres.
Leverets in their Blood.
Sauté de Levrauts
au Sang.
Pickles.
Mango en Marinade.
Calves Ears.
Oreilles de Veau à la
Ravigote.
Sweetbreads.
Hatelets de ris de
Veau.
Pudding
Boudin à la Richelies,
l'Italienne blanche.
Sauce à l'Italienne,
Crust Soup.
Potage Croûtes au Pot.
Mock Turtle.
Tête de Veau en
Tortne.
The English name of every dish that has got one is placed above the French, to give cooks
as little trouble as possible: as further assistance, a page of black lines is subjoined, on which
they may find it useful to lay the paper in making out their bills.
To the above course, two fishes may be introduced between the soups and the remotes, and
fondus of game or fowl, ramikins, small birds cooked in different ways, and what are in general
called plats de rot, are all proper for removes. Professed cooks will excuse these rernarks, which
are now offered to them


9
SERVICE OF EIGHTEEN COVERS TO TWENTY.
SECOND COURSE.
Roasted Partridges.
Perdreaux.
Apples in Rice.
Pommes au Riz
Rem a Ro
Relevé Rocher.
Jelly Gelée
de Marasyun
3
Sauce.
Fruit Tart.
Tourte auzConfitures.
Eggs in Ten.
Eufs au The.
Salad.
Lemon
Citron.
Cardoons in Marrow.
Cardes à la Moelle.
Truffle in a Napkin,
Trucjes à la Serviette.
Smelts.
Fyrirlass
Remove Cake
Galean,
Fondus
Remove
Soles Frites.
Fried Soles.
Normant,
Fried Salify.
Salsafis Frita.
Cauliflower in Butter.
Choufleurs au Beurre
Blanc-mangat
en petits pots.
Burnt Creat.
Creme brulée.
Saladas.
Cheerlate Fritters.
Beignets de Chueniat.
Sma! Tarts.
Tertietta a la Chantilly.
"
Sance,
Roastet Fowl,
Poniarde de Rét.
Remors mall Pla
Cacion de las es
galanterie.
!


SECOND COURSE, FROM THIRTY-FIVE TO FORTY COVERS.
Partridge Pye.
Pdte
de
Perdreaus.
Spinage in Crust.
Epinards
Croustade
en
Removed by a Cake.
Relevé d'un Gateau.
Orange Jelly
Gelée
d'Oranges
dans
Ecorce.
Chickens
with Queen's Sauce.
Poulets
à la Reine.
Scorsonere
du
Beurre.
Smoked Tongue.
Langue de
Bæuf fumée.
Cherry fritters.
Beignets
de
Cerises.
Rabbit.
Accolade
de
Lapereaux.
Olives.
Herbs.
Banded Tarts.
Tartelettes
Bandés.
Poached Eggs
in Grary:
poches
du Jus.
Eufs
Rabbits.
Levredus.
Fried Soles.
Soles
frites.
Stewed Lettuce.
Laitues à
l'Espagnole.
Small Peas.
Petits
Pois
à la Paysame.
Cock's Combs
in Jelly.
Aspic.
Remove.
Bush of Crawfish.
Buisson d'Ecrevisses.
Dormant of Silver, or Mirror,
to be covered with Vases and Crystal Dishes
filled with Flowers, Confections, or crystallized
Fruit and Flowers.
Biscuit de Savoie.
Savoy Cake.
Remove.
Aspic.
Mullet in Jelly
Small Beans.
Fèves
de
Marais
à la Poulette.
Haricots
à la Lyonaise.
Smelts.
Eperlans.
Small
Pigeons.
en Ortolans.
Small uit.
Choux
de
Reines.
Ramikin.
Fondu
CA
Caisse.
Herbs.
Olives.
Jalousies.
Stuffed Cucumbers.
Concombres
furcis.
Cauliflower with
Butter.
Chou
fleur
du Beurre.
Asparagus
with Butter.
Asperges
au
Beurre.
Rice Fritters.
Beignets
de Riz.
Blamange.
Blanc-manger
en
Petits Pots.
Glazed Ham.
Jambon glacé.
Rdeve.
Artichoke Bottoms.
Culs d'Artichauts
en
Canapes.
Remove.
Relevé d'un Souffle.


IN D E X.
A.
Artichokes braised, 258
Absinthe, crême d', 324
bottoms with ravigote
Aggysinas, fanchonettes, 234
sauce, 259
Almond paste, 230
à la Brétonne, 259
cake, 230
to
preserve, 345, 346
gâteau pithiviers, 233 Asparagus, in butter, 259
........... soup, potage au lait
in
gravy, 259
d'amandes, 168
............. as small peas, 259
Tours, 297
............. to preserve, 345
candy, 290
Aubergines, 269
confected, 290
..........., sur la grille, 260
grilled, 291
à la tourtiere, 269
Andouilles de cochon, 102
B
de Couenne, 102 Baba, 225
à la Béchamelle, 102 Badiane, 321
de veau, 102
Banded tarts, petites tartelettes
fraise de veau, 103 bandeés, 235
Angelique, liqueur de, 323
Barbadoes cream, 322
Anise water, 321
Barbel, 198
Apples, Charlotte de pommes Barberries, syrup of, 280
aux confitures ou sans confi- Barbillon, 180
tures, 237
Batter for frying, pâte à frire, 29
........., buttered, pommes au Beans, in various ways, 260
beurre, 238
to preserve, 344
chartreuse de pommes, Beef, Beuf :
238
bouilli ordinaire, 46
......... in rice, pommes au and cabbage, bæuf garni
riz, 239
e choux, 47
in apricot jam, pommes piece, au pain perdu, 47
à la polonaise, 239.
à l'écarlate, 47
fritters, beignets de
......, rump of, in jelly; culotte,
pommes, 240
à la gelée, ou a la royale, 48
.........., compotes of, 277
......, round, rosbif, rond-bif
jelly, 278
ou corne-bif, 49
Apricot fritters, 241
smoked or hung, bæuf
Apricots green, compote of, 273 fumé, ou de Hambourg, 49
in sugar, 274
......, roasted sirloin, aloyau à
white, various ways, 275 la broche, 50
Artichokes, in white sauce, 257
sirloin, aloyau à la Go-
with forced meat, 257 dart, 50
à l'Italienne, 258
braised, noix de bæuf
fried, 258
braisée, 50
R
.........


362
INDEX.
........
Beef, ribs, with roots, côtes, cou- Biscuits, small Turin, 298
vertes aux racines, 51
large cutting, 301
..., ribs, under the shoulder,
.........., sea biscuit, 302
entrecôte, 51
Blanc-manger, 254
......, fillet, filet piqué à la fritters, 240
broche, 51
Bread, of Manheim, 302
......, fillet with Madeira, au vin
.........soup, potage au pain, 167
de Madère, 52
Bret, flaye, 194
of the loin with cu- Brioche, påte à, 219
cumbers, filet d'aloyau aux
cheese, brioche au fro-
concombres, 52
mage, 224
with endive, à la chi. Butter wafers, 303'
corée, 53
thickened, 33
with love-apple sauce,
à la sauce tomate, 53
in their juice, sautés
C.
dans leur glace, 53
Cabbage, stock cabbage, 264
steaks, bif-teck, 53
Brussels, 264
tongues, (see Tongues).
.........., red, 264
palates, à l'Italienne, 56 Cakes, of various kinds, et seq.
à la poulette, 57 Candy, orange flower, 287
................, à la ravigote, 57
........, large rose, 287
..............., croquettes de pan ........, large yellow, 288
lais, 57
violets, 288
................., en Cracovie, 58
........, jessamine, 288
à la Lyonnaise, 58
suet, manner of preparing, ........,
........., jonquil, 288
almond, 290
30
small
rose,
290
Beer, vinegar, 340
Calf's ears stuffed, oreilles de
Biscuits, paste for, 221
veau farcies, 60
..... de niauffes, 225
. fried, en marinade, 60
glazed, génoises, glacées
à l'Italienne,
à l'Italienne, 232
61
........., manqué, 234
à la ravigote,
........., spoon biscuit, 293
61
light lemon, 294 Calf's tongues, 61
........., pistaches, 294
feet, pieds de veau, 61
.........., chocolate, 294
brains, cervelles de veau
.........., light hazel nut, 294 à l'allemande, 61
........., cream, 295
....... en mate-
........., orange flower, 295 lotte, 62
........., soufflé, of orange flow-
with peas sauce,
à
ers, 291
la purée de pois, 62
of chocolate, 295
in black butter, au
........., small soufflé, 296 beurre noir, 62
manqués à la fleur ............., à la ravigote, 63
d'orange, 297
liver, foie de veau à 12
fan, 298
poële, 63


INDEX
363
tue, 60
Calf's liver larded, à la bour- Carrot cake, gâteau de carottes,
geoise ou à l'étouffade, 63 227
with Italian sauce, à à la Flamande, 265
l’Italienne, 64
à l’Orleans, 265
roasted, à la broche, Cauliflower, with butter sauce, 256
Calf's lights, mou de veau à la
in gravy, 256
poulette, 64
............., with Parmesan, 256
in brown sauce, au
fried in butter, 256
roux, 65
Caviare, or Kaviar, 188
Calf's tail, with peas, queues de Cayenne pepper, to make, 36
veau aux petits pois, 67 Celery fritters, 243
........., with poulette sauce, Charlotte of apples, charlotte de
à la poulette, 67
pommes aux confitures ou sans
Calf's head, tête de veau au na confitures, 237
turel, 59
Cheese cake, gâteau au fromage,
............., stuffed, farcie, 59 223
mock turtle, en tor Cherries, compote of, 273
marmalade of, 283
Cannelons, 235
............., en chemise, 291
Casserole au Riz, 73
au caramel, 292
Capons boiled, chapon au gros
fritters, 241
sel, 141
Chesnuts in sugar, 282
with rice, au riz, 141
cakes, 299
with truffles, aux truffes, Chocolate, conserve of, 286
141
for drinking, 327
Caramel, how distinguished from Chou-croute, 341
sucre cassé, 272
Cider vinegar, 340
different fruit, 292 Cloves, oil of, 321
Cardoons, Spanish, 262
Cinnamon, liqueur, 320
with Parmesan, 263 Citron, conserve of, 285
in butter, 263
cream, 319
poirées, 263
oil of, 319
à la béchamelle, 263 Citronelle de Venise, 320
Carp, 171
Cochineal, to prepare, 293
à la chambor, 171
Cocoa, crême de, 324
stuffed, farcie, 172 Cockscombs and kidneys, au ve-
......, au bleu, ou court louté, 152
bouillon, 172
fried, frite, 173
aspic, 152
grilled, grillée, 173
matelote de
carpe et d'an ly, petits aspics, 153
guilles, 173
Cod, cabillaud ou morue, fraîche
à la marinière, 174 a la Hollandaise, 188
......, fricandeau, 174
....., en dauphin, 189
..., melts, fried, laitances frites, au gratin et à la Bécha-
175
melle, 189
......, roes in jelly, aspic de lai-
....., morue à la maître-d'hôtel,
tances, 175
189
au
......., grand
..., in jel-
R 2


364
INDEX.
Cod, morue à la provençale, 189 Cutlets, côtelettes de veau, 74.
various other recipes, (See Veal.)
190
côtelettes de mouton, 81.
Coffee, to make, 327
(See Mutton.)
........ conserve of, 286
d'agneau, 92
Colours in confectionery, 293 (See Lamb.)
Compiègne, gâteau de, 224
roe-buck, côtelettes de
Cordial water, 322
chevreuil, 105
Côtelettes en surprise, 239. (See
leveret, de levraut, 109
Cutlets.)
of partridge, de
per
Crawfish, écrevisses, how to dreaux, 124
choose, 175
of fowls, de poulardes,
how to cook for large 147
and small dishes, and garnish - of pigeons, de pigeons,
ings, 176
159
pudding of, 208
of sturgeon, d'esturgeon,
Cream, (see Iced Cream.)
187
whipt cream, 209
.............., coffee, 309
D.
.............., chocolate, 310 Dab, barbue, 192
..............., marasquin, 310 Darioles, 235
fritters, 242
Ducelle, 32
Creams: white coffee cream, Ducks, canards, 162. (See also
243
Wild Ducks.)
chocolate, 244
........, canetons
de Rouen,
........., orange flower, 244
sauce à l'orange, 164
.........., almond, 244
with olive sauce, sauce
... ....., coffee cream without
aux olives, 164
gizzards, 244, (see Liqueurs.)
in various other ways,
Crême patissière, 224
165.
frangipane, 225
Croque-en bouche, 229
E.
Cucumbers, Concombres Eau des sept graines, 325
blanc, 36
Eels, anguilles à la broche, à la
browned, au brun, St. Menehould, à la poulette,
37
180
stuffed, 261
à la tartare,181,matelote,181
in gravy, 261 Eggs in white coffee, 244
à la poulette, 262 in tea, 245
à la Béchamelle,
in gravy, 245
262
...... au fumet de gibier, 245
...... ........, pickled, 325
...... en surprise, 245
dressed, 326
in snow, 246
..............., to preserve, 244
in sunshine, 246
Curaçon, liqueur, 324
à la polonaise, 247
Currant jelly, red, 274
à la tripe, 247
Currants, bunches of, en che à la Bechamelle, 247
mise, 291
à la sauce Robert, 247
au
....
......


366
INDEX.
.
• • • •
. . . .
. . . .
.
.)
V
in paste,
.
ways, 154
Fowls, with truffles, aux truffes, Fowls, à la galantine, 145
134
filets à la Béchamelle, 146
...., as lizards, en lizard, 135
..., soufflé, 146
with peas, aux pois, 135,
...., hash, hachi, 147
136
croquettes,côtelettes, blan-
with crawfish sauce, au
quettes, 147
beurre d'écrevisse, 136
legs with small onions, or
roast, à la broche pour as swans, cuisses aux petits
rôt, 136
oignons ou en canetons, 148
with green sauce, à la ...., legs en ballon, 148
Hollandaise, 137
à la Bayonnaise, à la Li-
grilled, poulets à la Tar vournois, 149
tare, 137
quenelles, 149
....., sauce au pauvre homme wings, aîlerons, en haricots
et divers autres, 137
vierges, 149
à la Perigueux, 137
wings, ailerons in various
à la Mayonnaise, 138 .other ways, 150, 151
salade de poulets, 138
cockscombs and kidneys,
in cream, à la crême, 138 152
en friteau, 139,
...., fat livers, foies gras à la
.., marinade, 139
Périgueux, 153
forced meat
. in various other
rissoles de volaille, 139
en capilotade, 139, Fowl pies, 219
à la Saint Cloud, 140 Framboises, crême de, 324
à la ravigote, 140 French beans, à la poulette, 255
à la paysanne, 140
à la Brétonne, 255
à la reine, sauce à la Fritters, apple, beignets de
pluche verte, 41
pommes, 240
à la provençale, 141
beignets soufflés, 240
boiled capon, 141 (See blanc mange, de blanc
Capon.)
manger, 240
roasted, en entrée à la
surprised, de' surprise,
broche, 142
241
à la maréchale, 142
apricot, d'abricots, 241
à la St. Cloud, 142
., peach, de pêches, 241
• ., with loveapple sauce, sauce .., orange, d'orange, 241
tomate, 143
.., cherry, de cerises, 241
. . . ., roast, à la broche pour ....., rice, au riz, 242
rôt, 143
....., cream, crème frite, 242
...., en diverses manières, 144
....., celery beignets de celeri,
fillets, filets au suprême, 243
144
salsify or scorsonera,243
. . . ., fillets minced with cucum- Fruits, compôtes of, 273
bers, emincées
combres, 145
G.
.., wings of, with endives,
ailes de poulardes à la maré. Garnishings for dishes, garni-
chale, 145
tures bords de plats, 33
.
.
aux
con-


INDEX.
367
.
.
.
Garnishings, cockscombs, crêtes Hare, lievre, 106, gâteau de
de coqs, 34
lievre, 217
cocks' kidneys, rogn .. juice of, civet de lievre,
ons de coqs, 34
107
fat livers, foies gras Hatelets de ris de veau, 66
et demi-gras, 34
Hátereaux, 71
.., carrots, carottes, 34 Herb soup maigre, 170
turnips, navets, 35 Herring, hareng, various ways,
..., mushrooms, cham-
202, 203
pignons, 35
Honey, to clarify, 271
small onions, petits Hops, 270
oignons, 35
I.
lettuce, laitues, 35 Iced Cream, of roses, 306
", green of spinage,
of orange flowers,
vert d'epinards, 35
307
artichoke bottoms,
grilled flowers of
culs d'artichaux tournés, 36
orange, 307
of celery, de celeri
pistache, 307
aux entremêts, 44
chocolate, 307
Geese, oies, 159. See also Wild
white coffee, 308
Geese.
., citron, 308
...., roast, à la broche, 160
., pine apple, 308
with chesnuts, aux mar-
cheese, 309
rons, 160
Ices: general directions, 303
à la chipolata, 160 • • ., cherry ice, 304
-, legs and wings of, cuisses ..., strawberry, 304
et aîles à la Bayonne, 160 ..., raspberry, 304
Genoese paste, 230
• • ., currant, 304
tartlets, 231
iced orange-flower water,
Grape marmalade, 283
305
Grapes, en chemise, 291
apricot, 305
au caramel, 292
•, peach, 305
Gratin, 205
barberry, 305
Green colour, in confectionery,
..., pears, 306
293
lemon, 306
Grondins, 197
., orange, 306
seville orange, 306
H.
hazel nut, 308
iced water coffee, 309
Ham, plain, jambon au naturel, Jelly, orange, 251
94
lemon, 252
braised, braisé, 95
red fruits, 252
., roasted, à la broche, 95
..., orange flowers and cham.
to make, manière de
faire le jambon, 98
pine apples, 253,
of wild boar, jambon de ..., marasquin, 253
sanglier, 104
. . ., rum, and various wines,
253
.
• • •
pagne, 253
', Pye, 217
R 4


INDEX.
369
.
au
.
.
LIQUEURS, Scubac, 323
Meringals, Italian, with orange
huile de Venus, 323 flowers, 300
creme de cocoa, 324
dry orange flower,
d'absinthe, 324 301
de framboises, Mirlitons de Rouen, 233
924
Morilles, croûtes au, 267
• ., Curaçoa, 324
Mousserons, 267
de menthe distillée, Mullet, grey and red. Mulet et
325
sur-mulet, 198
., eau de sept graines, Muscated syrup of vinegar, 314
325
Muscles, moules, au naturel, et à
Livers, fat, foies gras, à la pé la poulette, 177
rigueux, 153
Mushrooms, observations on, 40
gra-
in crust, 265
tin, 153
à la Bordelaise, 266
en mate-
sur la tour-
lote, 153
tière, 266
., en caisse,
à la tourtière, 266
154
Mustard, 341
hatelet- Mutton, directions for the choice
tes, coquilles, 154
of, 78
Lobsters, (homards), how to
hind part, roasted, rôt-
choose, 175
de-bif de mouton, à la broche,
Lotte, or eel pout, 183
78
Lozenge cakes, small, gâteaux
Braised leg of, gigot
en lozenge, 235
braisé, 78
leg, gigot, à la Gas-
M.
conne, 79
Macaroons, bitter, 296
leg, boiled, gigot å
....., sweet, 296
l'eau, 79
Mackarel, maquereaux, à la maî-
en chey-
tre-d’hôtel, 199
reuil, 79
in the English way;
saddle, roasted, 79.
à l'Anglaise, 200
., fillets, petites selles,
various other ways,
80
200, 201
forequarter, ronchis,
Madeleine cake, 231
80
Manheim bread, 302
shoulder in a ball,
Marrow pastry,tourte à la moelle, épaule en ballon, 80
226
..... cutlets, côtelettes au na-
Massepains, 296
turel, 81
syringed, 299
.... with crumbs, pa-
pistaches, 299
nées, 81
Menthe distillée, liqueur de, 325
in a minute, à la
Meringals, the twins, 300
minute, 81
Italian, 300
.................., à la jardinière, 81
• • • • • •
R 5.


970
INDEX.
f
cucum-
Mutton cutlets, with endive, à la Mutton tongues, with Parmesan,
chicorée, 82
88
in soubise, à la
à la matelotte, 88
soubise, 82
...... trotters. (See Sheep's Trobe
......, breast of, carré, à la ters).
servante, 82
N.
en fricandeau Noir de veau, 77
82
small fillets of, filets mig-
Noyaux, crême de, 322
0.
nons, 83
........., minced, with
Omelets, plain 249
bers, 88
à la célestine, 250
hashed, hachis à la Por-
aux confitures, 250
tugaise, 83
of veal kidney, 250
.., haricot, à la Bourgeoise,
of mushrooms, 250
83
with sorrel, 251
breasts of, poitrines, 84
with bacon, 251
necks of, collets, à la
with truffles, 251
Sainte Ménehould, 84
soufflée, 236
necks grilled, collets ........., soufflée et moulée, 236
grillés, 84
Onions, brown and white,
........, tails, with endive, queues pluche d'oignons, blanche et
de mouton glacés à la chicorée, rousse, 37
84
Orange cake, gâteau à la Portu.
...... hotchpotch, queues
gaise, 233
en hochepot, 84
.........., chips in sugar, 284
..............., au soleil, 85
..........., confected, 284
in chesnut soup,
flower cakes, 287
terrine de
queues
de mouton,
........., sugar candy, 287
85
flower-water, 317
kidneys grilled, rognons
....., double,317
à la brochette, 85
.........., fritters, 241
........, kidneys in Champagne,
flowers confected, 289
rognons au vin de Chama
.................., conserve of, 289
in
pagne, ou à l’Italienne, 86
sugar, 282
animelles de moutons,
marmalade of, 283
86
flower marmalade, 284
spinal marrow,
bitter, pickled, 325
rettes, ou moëlle alongée de Orgeat, 311
mouton, 86
Ox-palates. (See Beef Palates.)
brains, cervellse, 86 • tails, hotch-potch of, 54
tongues, langues en pa with peas, 54
pillotte, 86
Oysters, huîtres, scolloped, en
in forced meat,
coquilles, 178
au gratin, 87
grilled, huîtres sur le
à la Bretonne,
gril, 178
87
ragoût, 178
amou-


INDEX.
373
salice
..........
156
Pig's feet, pieds à la Sainte Pork cutlets, côtelettes,
Menéhould, 97
Robert, 96
..... tongues, smoked, langues salt pork, petit salé, 97
de porc fumées et fourries, 98 ...., blood pudding, boudin
Pigeons, 131.
ordinaire, 99
........, wood-pigeons in pickle,
........, white,
ramereaux en marinade, 131 boudin blanc, 100
...................., poêlés, 131
....., sausages, 101
à l'etouffade,
......, andouilles, 102
131
to dress as wild boar, com-
house-pigeons with peas, me sanglier, 104
Potatoes, à la maître_ d'hôtel,
........, compot of, compote de 268
pigeons, 157
au jus, ou a la Brétonne,
........, au blanc, 157
268
in batter, marinade au
à la Lyonnaise, 268
soleil, 157
au beurre, 269
à la crapaudine, 158
en beignets, 269
........, small, à la gautier, 158
.........., frangipane de, 269
................, au basilic, 158
.........., topinambours, 270
........, cutlets, côtelettes, 159
Pouplin, 222
.........., roast, à la broche, 15 Prawns, crevettes, 177
........, as ortolans, en ortolans Preserves, artichokes, 346
pour rột, 159
...............,
artichoke bottoms,
Pike, brochet, in various ways, 346
178
.............., tomates, 346
Pistache cake, gâteau aux pis-
verjuice, 346
taches, 228
chou-croûte, 341
gauffres de pistaches,
..............., sorrel, 343
232
............., endive, 343
Plaice, limande, 194
............., kidney beans, 344
Plover, 126
............., cucumbers, 344
pluvier au gratin, 126
............., beans, 344
à la périgueux,
.............., savory, 345
126
.............., peas, 345
entrée de
..............., asparagus, 345
broche, 127
............., artichokes, 345, 346
Plumbs, in sugar, 278
Pudding, blood, boudin ordi-
........, in brandy, 278
naire, 99
....., blanching of plumbs,
à la façon de
278
Nanterre, 100
...., small yellow, in sugar,
............, crawfish, boudin d'é
279
crevisse, 100
Pomegranates in caramel, 293
............, rabbit, de lapereau,
Pork, how to choose, 93. (See 101
Pig's Head, Ham, &c.) ............, pheasant, de faisan, 101
chine, échinée de cochon,
à la Riche-
96
lieu, 117
en


574
INDEX
Predding, of rabbits, boulin Rabbits, timbale de lapereaux,
de lapercaux à la Richelieu, 113
207
........., mayonnaise, 113
Puits d'amour, 235
........., lapereaux aux fines
Pumpkin, 270
herbes, 113
........., aux papillotes, 114
R.
marinade, 114
Quails, roasted, cailles à la bro-
in sallad, salade de
chic, 127
lapereaux, 114
with bay, au laurier, 127
in soup, terrine de la-
with peas, aux petits pois,
pereaux, 114
128
........., roasted, accolade, à la
......., au gratin, 128
broche, 114
with lettuce, aux laitues,
pudding of, 207
129
Ragoóts : salpicon ordinaire, 37
in crusts, en croustades,
of sweet breads, de
129
ris de veau, 38
with truMcs, aux truffes, ....... of cockscombs and kid-
129
neys, de crêtes et rognons de
Queen's cake, gâtcau à la reine, coq en financière, 38
233
soft roes of carp, lai-
paste, 222
tances de carpes, 39
Quenelles de volaille, forced
.........., carps' tongues, lan-
meat of fowls, 206-
gues de carpes, 39
de lapereaux, per-
truffles, aux truffes,
dreaux et faisans, 207
39
de merlan, de sau ........., aux truffes à l'espag-
mon, &c., 209
nole, 40
Quince jelly, 280
à la Pied-
Quinces, inarmalade of, 283 montaise, 40
à la Peri.
........?
R.
gueux, 40
Rabbils, lapereaux, 110
sauté ou escalopes de,
110
..... fillets, filets, 110
.........., legs, cuisses à la dau-
phine, 111
hash, hachis à la Portu-
gaisc, 111
fillets, filets à la vo-
pallière, 111
giblets, gibelottes, 112
giblets with cels, gibe-
lottes de lapercau et d'an-
guilles, 112
rabbit with peas, aux
petits pois, 112
of mushrooms, aux
champignons, 41
white, au blanc, 41
de morilles, 41
de mousserons, 42
of endive, de chicorée
au brun, 42
of spinach, d'epi-
nards, 43
of French beans, de
haricots à la Bretonne, 43
of French beans in
juice, de haricots au jus,
43
...., white, of cucumber,
blanc aux concombres, 44


376
INDEX
au
crue, 21
SAUCES, poivrade, 17
Sauces, game, au fumet de gie
........, hachée, 18
bier, 26
piquante, 18
........., au beurre d'ail, 27
à la nonpareille, ou à ........., anchovy butter,
l’Arliquine, 18
beurre d'anchois, 27
à la pluche, 19
au beurre de provence,
........., aux truffes, ou à la
27
Perigueux, 19
à la Tartare, 27
.........., en tortue, 19
fennel, au fenouil, 28
........., curry, ou à l'Indienne,
........., tarragon, clear, claire
20
à l'Estragon, 28
........., tomate, 20
........., mayonnaise, 28
ivoire, 20
........., roux, 28
..........., ravigote blanche, 20
roux blanc, 29
cold ravigote, froide et .........., aux hatelettes, 30
bread, 30
drest ravigote, cuite, ........., truffles, aux truffes à la
21
St. Cloud, 31
.........., green, verte, 21
..... à la pluche verte, si
........., Robert, 21
court bouillon, 31
........., crawfish, beurre d'écra
ketchup, 31
visses, 22
La Ducelle, 32
lobster, aux homards,
au vert pré, 32
22
... ... ..., orange, à l'orange, 32
sorrel, à la purée d'o-
salt-water, eau de sel,
seille, 23
32
.......,onion,à la purée d'oignons
thickened butter, beurre
blancs, 23
lié, 33
brown onions, à la purée Sausages, saucisses, 101
d'oignons rousses, dite Bré-
.........., smoked, fumés, 101
tonne, 23
flat, 101
à la purée de pois, 28 Scubac, liqueur, 329
pois verts, pour entrées Sca-dragon, vive, 198°
et entremets, 24
..............., caper sauce, vives
.........., peas, pois secs, 24
aux câpres, 199
lentil, à la purée de len-
à l'Italienne,à l'al.
tilles, à la reine, 24
lemande, 199
purée de gibier, 24 Shad, alose, in various ways,
.........., poor man's, au pauvre 186
homme, 25
Sheep'e tails, 84. (See Mutton.)
veal stock, consommé
........., tongues, 86. (See Mut.
reduit, 25
ton.)
boiled pickle, marinade ........., trotters, pieds, 88–89
cuite, 25
Skate, raie, 201
......, poêle, 25
with caper sauce, 201
à la mirepoix, 26
various other ways, 202.
.........., blanc, 26
Small cakes, petits gâteaux pol
........, petite, a l'aspic, 26 nais, 294


378
INDEX.
negar, 314
veau, 66
.
au
.
• • •
Syrups, muscated syrup of vi. Turnips, à l'espagnole, 264
in white sauce, 264
Turtle doves, tourtereaux, 132.
T.
See Pigeons.
Tarragon, vinegar, 339
Tart, tourte de frangipane, 226
V.
Tartlets, à la Chantilly, 231 Vanille rolls, 302
petites Génoises, 231 Veal, directions for choosing, 58
Tench, tenche, in various ways, .., see calf's head, &c
183
fraise, 65
Tendons de veau, 73. See Veal.
à la brisac, 65
Tendons d'agneau, 91. See .., sweetbreads, ris de veau,
Lamb.
à la dauphin, 65
Thickened butter, beurre lié, 33
.., with espagnole sauce,
Thieves' vinegar, 339
à l'espagnole, 65
Thrushes, roast, 127
hatelets de ris de
Tomates, to preserve, 346
Tongues, smoked, langue fumée,
, in cases, en caisse, 66
54
in jelly, petit aspic
hung beef, langue de de ris de veau, 66
bæuf fourré, 55
ris de veau à la pou-
braised, à la braise, 55 lette, 67
with Parmesan,
loin, and its uses, cuissot,
Parmesan, 55
et la manière d'en tirer parti,
Tripe, gras-double, 58
68
Trout, truite, 186.
noix de veau à la bour.
Truffles, truffes, au vin de geoise, 69
champagne, 267
..., en bedeau, 69.
....., en croustade, 267
noix de veau piquée (laru-
à la cendre, 267. See ed), 69
Ragouts.
grenadins, 69
TURBOT, for first or second
..., manchons à la Gérard, 70
course ; turbot entier pour . . ., hâtereaux, 71
premier et second service, 190 popiettes de veau, 71
au gratin, 191, en sa ..., filets mignons, 71
lade, 190
forequarter, quartier de
small, turbotins sur devant, 71
le plat, 191
blanquettes, 72
sauce tomate, 192
tendons à la poulette, ou
Turk's cap, 270
au blanc, 72
Turkey wheat, au vinaigre, 326 ..., tendons in peacock's tails,
Turkies, dindes, 154
en queues de paon, 72
roast with truffles, aux casserole de riz, 72
truffes, à la broche, 154 ..., tendons de veau en Mace-
....., en galantine; en daube, doine, 73
155
.... panés
Turnips, with sugar, 263
grillés, 73
• • •
.
.


1
INDEX
380
Woodcocks, wuffe, 125
.., roast with truffes, aux
truffes, 125
hashed, 125
Wood pigeons, 131. See Pigeons.
Y.
Yellow colour, in confectionery
293.
.
THE END.
LONDON:
Printod by A. & R, Spottiswoode,
New Strect-Square.
Hy ks


378
INDEX.
negar, 314
veau, 66
au
Syrups, muscated syrup of vin Turnips, à l'espagnole, 264
in white sauce, 264
Turtle doves, tourtereaux, 132.
T.
See Pigeons.
Tarragon, vinegar, 339
Tart, tourte de frangipane, 226
v.
Tartlets, à la Chantilly, 231 Vanille rolls, 302
petites Génoises, 231 Veal, directions for choosing, 58
Tench, tenche, in various ways, see calf's head, &c.
183
fraise, 65
Tendons de veau, 73. See Veal. ......, à la brisac, 65
Tendons d'agneau, 91. See ..., sweetbreads, ris de veau,
Lamb.
à la dauphin, 05
Thickened butter, beurre lié, 33 ..., with espagnole sauce,
Thieves' vinegar, 339
à l'espagnole, 65
Thrushes, roast, 127
hatelets de ris de
Tomates, to preserve, 346
Tongues, smoked, langue fumée,
in cases, en caisse, 66
54
-, in jelly, petít aspic
....., hung beef, langue 'de
de ris de veau, 66
bæuf fourré, 55
ris de veau à la pou-
....., braised, à la braise, 55 lette, 67
with Parmesan, ..., loin, and its uses, cuissot,
Parınesan, 55
et la manière d'en tirer parti,
Tripe, gras-double, 68
68
Trout, truite, 186.
noix de veau à la bour.
Truffles, truffes, au vin de geoise, 69
champagne, 267
..., en bedeau, 69.
....., en croustade, 267
noix de veau piquée (lard.
à la cendre, 267. See ed), 69
Ragouts.
..", grenadins, 69
TURBOT, for first or second . . ., manchons à la Gérard, 70
course ; turbot entier pour ..., hatereaux, 71
premier et second service, 190 popiettes de veau, 71
..., au gratin, 191, en sa ..., filets mignons, 71
lade, 190
forequarter, quartier de
small, turbotins sur devant, 71
le plat, 191
..., blanquettes, 72
.., sauce tomate, 192
tendons à la poulette, ou
Turk's cap, 270
au blanc, 72
Turkey wheat, au vinaigre, 326 tendons in peacock's tails,
Turkies, dindes, 154
en queues de paon, 72
roast with truffles, aux casserole de riz, 72
truffes, à la broche, 154
tendons de veau en Mace-
. . . . ., en galantine; en daube, doine, 73
155
panés et
Turnips, with sugar, 263
grillés, 73


Veal, tendons de veau
onnaise, 73
gote, 74
inade, 74
1,74
tlets, cótelette
.., piguess
....., 2 s.
bon, 76
76
76
1
pillotes, 76
breast, wie
veau pique
..., petites are t'i
veau, 77
..., noir à à Games
how to Z
taste and acces
tongue, 341
Venison, had imzte
derriere del
Venus, huile de 3
Verjuice, met 1
28)
Vermicelii 23- Dil T
Vinegar, som var
ing, 396
ricarea
art.
338
rose
real
vina 2
338
of avender,
toilet, 905


THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY
REFERENCE DBPARTMENT
This book is under no circumstances to be
taken from the Building
form 410