The illustrated London cookery bookFrederick Bishop J3».' '* PROFUSELY ILLUSTRATED WITH ENGRAVINGSON WOOD. ' i LONDON: 227, STRAND. MDCOCLII. i,' - LONDON : J. BADDON rniNT£R, CARTL* ftTRsJT, F»^ bone by cutting A Dish of Mackerel. Whitings when fried have the tail passed through the eyes, and fastened. They are eaten thus. Jack or Pike are served in many ways. When baked the back and belly should be slit up, and each slice gently drawn downwards, by this means fewer bones will be given. Fried Whiting. However accurate may be our descriptions, yet like all others of this kind, the true elements of success will be found in practice. Carve at home when practicable, and out also, bearing in mind the rules given, exerting a degree of self-confidence, remembering as an adage, that elegance, not strength, is required to carve well. BEEF. A Bullock marked as cut into joints by the Butcher. A Sirloin. B Rump. C Aitchbone. D Buttock. E Mouse Buttock. F Veiny Piece. G Thick Flank. H Thin Flank. I Leg. K Fore Ribs, containing five ribs. L Middle Rib, containing four ribs. M Chuck Rib, containing three ribs. N Shoulder, or Leg of Mutton niece. 0 Brisket. P Clod. Q Neck, or Sticking Piece. R Shin. S Cheek. The baron of beef ia formed of the pieces marked A, B, united on both sides. 28 ON CARVING. VEAL. The calf is divided into joints by the butcher, upon a system which unite the methods employed for cutting up both beef and mutton. A The Loin (best end). B The Loin (chump end). C The Fillet. D The Hind Knuckle. £ The Fore Knuckle. F Neck (best end).] G Neck (scrag). II Blade Bone. I Breast (best end). K Breast (Brisket). PORK. The Pig is thus divided:— A The Fore Loin. I C The Belly, or Spring. B The Hind Loin. D The Hand. E The Leg. The spare rib is under the shoulder, which, when removed in a porker, leave part of the neck without a skin upon it, forming the spare rib. The bead is m liked by many, and appears at table dressed in various ways. MUTTON. The Sheep is thus apportioned by English butchers A The Leg. E Neck (scrag end). B Loin (the best end). F Shoulder. C Loin (chump end). I G Breast. D Neck (best end). ON CARVING. 29 The saddle originally was formed of the two necks, it is now the two loins. The chine is the union of the two neck», but it is very rarely seen at table. The Scotch plan of carving mutton carcasses, according to a very able article on domestic economy, published by Messrs. Chambers of Edinburgh, diners some- what from our own, as will be seen by the accompanying diagrams. English mode. Scotch mode. In the English mode, A marked in a circle is the shoulder, separated from the neck and breast; B, the scrag end of the neck, C is the best end, I) is the breast, E the loin, and F the leg, which, when formed with E, makes the haunch. In the Scotch mode, A is the leg, B the loin, which, with the leg, forms the hind quarter; C is the back rib, and D the breast; C and D form the fore quarter; the dotted line across the body denotes where the fore and hind quarters divide. VENISON. A Haunch. j C Shoulder. B Neck. | D Breast. Buckand Doe Venison ore cut up in itsimilar fashion. 30 TO OHOOSE MEATS. TO CHOOSE MEATS. Venison.—The choice of venison should be regulated by the appearance of the fat, which, when the venison is young, looks bright, thick, clear, and close. It first changes towards the haunches. To ascertain whether it is sweet, run a knife into that part; if tainted it will have to rank smell. It should not be cooked if too high. Beef.—True, well-fed beef may be known by the texture and colour; the lean will exhibit an open grain of deep coral-red, and the fat will appear of a healthy, oily smoothness, rather inclining to white than yellow. The suet firm and white. Yellow fat is a test of meat of an inferior quality. Heifer beef is but little in- ferior to ox beef; the lean is of a closer grain, the red paler, and the fat whiter. Cow beef may be detected by the same signs, save that the older the beast the texture of the meat will appear closer, and the flesh coarser to the sight, as well as harder to the touch. Scotch cattle, bred in English pastures, produce the best beef. The Devon and Hereford stock affords good beef; the Lin- colnshire breed will not bear comparison with it. Veal.—When you observe the kidney well surrounded with fat, you may be sure the meat is of a good quality. The whitest is not the best veal; but the flesh of the bull-calf is a brighter colour than that of the cow-calf. The fillet of the latter is generally preferred, on account of the udder. There is a vein in the shoulder very perceptible; and its colour indicates the freshness of the meat; if a bright red or blue, it is recently killed; if any green or yellow spots are visible, it is stale. The suet will be flabby, and the kidney will smell. Mutton.—The best is of a fine grain, a bright colour, the fat firm and white. It is better for being full-grown. The meat of the ewe is not so bright, while the grain is closer. The ram mutton may be known by tho redness of the flesh, and the sponginess of the fat. Lamb should be eaten very fresh. In the fore quarter, the vein in the neck being any other colour than blue betrays it to be stale. In the hind quarter, try the kidney with your nose; the faintness of its .smell will prove it to be stale. Pobk.—In young pork the lean when pinched will break; the thickness and toughness of the rind shows it to be old. In fresh pork the flesh is firm, smooth, a clear color, and the fat set . When stale it looks clammy and flabby. Measly pork may be detected by the kernels in the fat; it should not be eaten. Dairy-fed pork bears the palm over all others. Bacon.—Excellent young bacon may be thus known:—the lean will be tender and of a bright colour; the fat firm and white, yet bearing a pale rose tinge; the rind thin, and the lean tender to the touch. Kusty bacon has yellow streaks in it. TO CHOOSE FISH. 31 Hams.—The test of a sweet ham is to pass a sharp knife to the bone, and when drawn out smell it; if the knife is daubed greasy, and the scent disagreeable, it is bad. A good ham will present an agreeable smell when the knife is withdrawn. POULTRY AND GAME, TO CHOOSE. Tubket.—The cock bird when young has a smooth black leg with a short spur. The eyes bright and full, and moist supple feet when fresh; the absence of these signs denotes age and staleness; the heatmay be judged by the same rules. Fowls like a turkey; the young cock has a smooth leg and a short spur; when fresh the vent is closed and dark. Hens when young have smooth legs and combs; when old these will be rough; a good capon has a thick belly and large rump, a poll comb and a swelling breast. Geese.—In young geese the feet and bills will be yellow and free from hair. When fresh the feet are pliable; they are stiff when stale. Ducks may be selected by the same rules. Pigeons, when fresh, have supple feet, and the vent will be firm; if discoloured and supple they are stale. Plovees, when fat, have hard vents; but, like almost all other birds, may be chosen by the above rules. **m» -f^ Babes. —When B hare is young and fresh, the cleft in the lip is narrow, the body stiff, the ears tear easily, and the claws are smooth and sharp; and old and stale hares will be the opposite of this. Babbits the same. Paetbldges.—Yellow legs and a dark bill are signs by which a young bird may be known, and a rigid vent when fresh. When this part is green the bird is stale. Pheasants may be chosen as above; the young birds are known by the short or round spur, which in the old is long and pointed. Moob Game.—Grouse, Woodcocks, Snipes, Quails, Ortolans, &C., may be chosen by the rules above given. TO CHOOSE FISH. Tubbot.—When good are thick, and the belly is white with a faint yellow tinge. Salmon.—The fish stiff, the scales very bright, the belly thick, the gills a brilliant colour, and the flesh when cut a beautiful red, will prove it to be a fine fresh fish. It cannot be too fresh. Cod.—The best fish are thick at the neck, very red gills, firm white flesh, bright, and blood-shot eyes, and small head. Skate.—The finest have very thick bodies, and should be very white. Hebbhtgs.—Very red gills, blood-shot eyes, very bright scales, and the fish stiff, shows them to be good and fresh. Soles.—Thick bodies, the bellies of a creamy white, show them 32 TO CHOOSE FISH. to be good: a flabby sole, with a pale blue tinge on the belly, should be avoided. Flounders may be chosen as above. Whitings.—A clear colour and firm bodies, indicate a superior quality. Mackerel.—Bright eyes, thick bodies, the prismatic colours very predominant on the belly, denote freshness and goodness. Pike, Carp, Tench, Perch, Smelts, Gudgeons, &C., may be judged by the above rules. Mullet.—The red are preferred to the grey, and the sea to the river. They are a delicious fish when properly cooked. Eels.—The Thames, or silver eel, are the best; the Dutch are not good; the bright silver-hued belly and thickness of back, are the guides in their selection. SHELL FISH. Lobsters.—To be had in perfection should be boiled at home; choose the heaviest. When they are boiled the tail should have a good spring; the cock lobster has a narrow tail in which the two uppermost fins are stiff and hard; the hen has a broad tail, and these fins are softer. The male has the best flavour; the flesh is firmer, and the colour when boiled is brighter than the hen. Crabs, like lobsters, should be selected by weight; when prime the leg-joints are stiff and the scent pleasant. Prawns and Shrimps should be bright and the bodies firm and stiff; when they are limp and soft they are stale. Oysters. —There are many sorts of oysters; when the oyster is alive the shell will close upon the knife; the common oyster should be used for sauce, and the natives, of which there are several kinds, should be sent to table. REMARKS ON TABLE KNIVES. The same rule applies to Table Cutlery as to all other cutting instruments, viz., that they must be frequently sharpened. A servant who understands knife-cleaning, will, before takiug them off the board, draw them briskly a few times from back to edge (raising the back a little) first on one side, then on the other, and thus produce an excellent edge; whereas a clumsy inexperienced hand will (by not holding them flat on the board) contrive to give the best steel a dull edge. Hence the necessity of an efficient steel, in using which, care should be taken to raise the back of the knife a quarter of an inch from the steel. Servants are apt, in cleaning knives, to allow the arm to take its natural ball and socket, or half-circular movement, this of course, must completely round and thicken the edge and wear the back. Strict injunctions should be given to keep the knife alwaysflat on the board. The best knives when new, will not cut, unless the above directions are strictly enforced. ARTICLES IN SEASON. 33 ARTICLES FOR THE TABLE IN SEASON FOR EACH MONTH OF THE YEAR. JANUARY. Meats.—Beef, mutton, veal, pork, house-lamb. Poultry.—Pheasants, partridges, hares, rabbits, woodcocks, snipes, turkeys, pullets, capons, fowls, and pigeons. Fish.—Oysters, prawns, crabs, lobsters, crayfish, whitings, smelt, sturgeon, skate, turbot, plaice, thornback, flounder, perch, tench, and carp. Vegetables.—Cabbage and sprouts, sorrel, endive, spinach, beet- root, celery, scorzanera, potatoes, parsnips, turnips, broccoli ahalots, lettuces, cresses, salsify, cucumbers, and asparagus; mush- rooms all the year. Fruits.—Pears, apples, nuts, grapes, medlars, and walnuts. FEBRUARY AND MARCH. All meats and game as in the former month, with the addition of chickens and ducklings. Fish.—Exactly as last month, excepting cod, which is not sup- posed to be quite so good, up to July. Vegetables.—Just the same as the previous month, only now you have kidney beans. Fruits.—Apples and pears, and forced strawberries. APRIL, MAY, and JUNE—One Quabteb. Meats.—Beef, mutton, veal, lamb, and in June venison. Poultry.—Pullets, fowls, chickens, ducklings, 'pigeons, rabbits, and leverets. Vegetables as before, only in Mat early potatoes, peas, rad- ishes, French beans, early cabbages, carrots and turnips, cauli- flowers, asparagus, artichokes, and all kinds of salad, but this is forced. Fruits.—In June, strawberries, cherries, melons, green apricots, currants, and gooseberries for tarts only. Fish.— Carp, soles, tench, smelt, eels, trout, turbot, lobsters, chub, salmon, herrings, cray-fish, mackerel, crabs, prawns, and shrimps. D 34 ARTICLES IN SEASON. JULY, AUGUST, and SEPTEMBER.—Second Quabteb. Meats.—These are not different from the former, months, ex- cept Pork, which commences in September. Poultry.—Pullets, fowls, chickens and rabbits, pigeons and green geese, leverets, turkeys, poults, the two former months; wheatears and geese in September. Fish.—Cod, haddock, flounder, skate, thornback, mullet," pike and carp,-eels and shell fish, but no oysters; mackerel in July, it is not so good in August. Vegetables.—All as the previous months; peas and beans. Fruits.—Jult, strawberries, gooseberries, pine apples, plums of all kinds, cherries, apricots, raspberries, melons, damsons, white and red currants, pears, apples, grapes, nectarines, and peaches. In August and September peaches, plumbs, filberts, figs, mul- berries, cherries, apples and pears, nectarines, grapes, pines and melons, strawberries. OCTOBER. Meats do not differ, this is the season for good doe venison. Poultry and Game.—Fowls of all kinds as the former quarter, pheasants from the 1st October, partridges, larks, hares, wild ducks; late in the month, teal, snipes, widgeon, and grouse. Fish.—Dories, smelts, pike, perch, halibut, brill, carp, salmon, trout, barbel gudgeon, tench, all shell fish. Vegetables are now as in January month. Fruits.—Peaches, pears, figs, bullaces, grapes, apples, medlars, damsons, filberts, walnuts, nuts, quinces. NOVEMBER. Meats.—Beef, mutton, veal, pork, house lamb, doe Tension. - Poultry, game, Jish, vegetables, and fruits.—As the last month. DECEMBER. Meats as the former month. Poultry.—Geese, turkeys, pullets, pigeons, capons, fowls, rab- bits, hares, snipes, woodcocks, larks, pheasants, sea-fowls, Guinea fowls, wild ducks, teal, widgeon, grouse, and dunbirds. Vegetables.—As in the last month. Fish.—Turbot, gurnets, soles, sturgeon, carp, gudgeon, eels, codlings, dories, and shell fish of all kinds. sieat sourp. 3,5 CHAPTER II. MEAT SOUPS. There is no dish, perhaps, that comes to table which gives such general satisfaction as well prepared soup; let the appetite be vigorous or refined, an excellent'soup will always prove grateful to it; and as this is beyond contradiction, it should be the province of the cook to be always in a position to produce it at a short notice. There should always be plenty of dried herbs in the store closet; these may be purchased chiefly in quantities at the beginning of the autumn of any market-gardener, and kept at hand; Franklin tells us that "everything should have its place, and there should be a place for everything." The multiplicity of articles required by a cook should induce her to bear this maxim in mind. Herbs may be very well kept, as indeed, they are usually, in paper bags; they should be all labelled. When time is an important object the neces- sity for this is obvious—they are always to be had when wanted, and the bag should be immediately replaced after using. There should be a saucepan, or kettle of iron well tinned, kept for soup only; we think the engraved specimen the best: remember, the lid should fit tightly; there are several kinds, but the one we have given will be found to answer all purposes, being especially useful as a "stock-pot." The inexperienced reader will understand by the term "stock-pot," that soups being of two kinds, brown and white, have different foundations, that of brown being always beef, and that of white, veal; there are many ingredients in each, and it is the various articles which, when put together, are called "stock," hence the soup utensil is technically termed the stock-pot. 1. STOCK FOR BROWN SOUP. Firstly, let the kettle in which the soup is to be prepared, be perfectly clean and dry; the hands of the cook should be so likewise: then take about a pound of beef, which should be lean, and may be either shin, leg, ox-cheek, or from the clod, indeed from any of the inferior parts, always remembering it must be lean; cut it in slices, and place at the bottom of the saucepan with a tolerable sized piece of salt butter, and a little water to prevent burning, but let the quantity be small, the less the better: add a piece of lean bacon cut in slices also; if the quantity of stock be large, about'a fourth the quantity of the bacon to the beef will Eunice, but when the D 2 36 MEAT SOUPS. quantity of beef is small, the proportion of bacon should be nearly equal; cover the lid down close, and extract the gravy, permit it nearly all to re-enter the meat, and then pour sufficient boiling water—it must be boiling, for the quantity of soap required, adding two or three onions if small, sweet herbs cut small, with a few cloves, and et it stew slowly for four or five hours, propor- tionably to the quantity of meat; the greater the quantity of meat the longer the time required to stew. When the meat is quite tender this will form the foundation for all the best brown soups; this, if well done, makes a delicious gravy soup; if it should require brown- ing, refer to the receipt for colouring soups and gravies. Stock, in its composition, is not confined to the above receipt; any meats or bones, stewable, will be useful in the stock-pot; pieces of beef, from any part, from which gravy can be extracted, bones, shin-bones, brisket-bones, tops of ribs, ox-cheek, pieces of mutton, bacon, ham, bones of either legs, heads of fowls, geese, or turkeys, veal, knuckle, or other parts, game, hare, pheasant, partridges, if they be old and fit for no other purpose; indeed, anything which is fit and proper to be eaten in the form of animal food, and in any degree resolvable into a jelly, will assist in making stock. To this medley of ingredients, which it will be found on trial will produce the best soup that can be made, add carrots cut in thin slices, herbs, onions, pepper, and salt; when it has stewed slowly for a short time, pour in the boiling water in proportion to the quan- tity of meat and soup required; then stew it until it is of a rich consistency, take it from the fire, let it cool, remove the pot. If required the following day, care should be taken that the deposit or sediment is removed, as also the fat previous to warming; if kept long the pans must be changed; there is as much danger in red glazed earthenware as in metal pans; the latter should never be employed to keep gravies in, if possible. Wherever greater richness is required, it may be obtained by the addition of the jelly of cow- heel, or a lump of butter and flour. Remember, soup is richer and better for being made the previous day, or even two or three days previously to its being required, if it be warmed each day; to be really good it must be well stewed. 2.— STOCK FOR WHITE SOUPS. This is a soup, the foundation of which is veal, the knuckle, the scrag, or calf' s head being the best meat for the purpose, an old fowl, a little ham, or bacon, mutton, sheep's head, &C., nearly the same ingredients as for brown soups, save that there must not be much beef, and the proportion of ham and bacon smaller in the latter than former, and when made for white sauce, care must be taken to leave out the pepper. 3.—WHITE SOUP. General directions for white stock have been given above, but to prevent mistake, take a knuckle of veal, separated into three or four MEAT SOUPS. • 37 pieces, a slice of ham as lean as possible, a few onions, thyme, cloves, and mace, stew twelve or fourteen hours until the stock is as rich as the ingredients can make it; an old fowl will make it much richer if added. This soup must be made the day before it is required, when removed from the fire, after being sufficiently stewed, let it cool; and then remove the fat; add to it four ounces of pounded blanched almonds, let it boil slowly, thicken it with half a pint of cream and an egg; it should boil slowly for half an hour, and then be served. 4. BEEF GRAVY. Take three pounds of beef steaks, two rabbits, excepting the head and breast, a knuckle of veal, five carrots, six onions, two cloves, two bay leaves, a bunch of parsley, and scallions; put all these into a stew- pan with two ladlefuls of broth, and set them over a good fire to re- duce them, cover the stove, and let the stewpan stand over it until the meat begins to give out the gravy, and adheres slightly; the jelly at the bottom of the stewpan ought to be nearly black, and when that is the case, take it from the stove, and let it stand for ten minutes, then fill up the stewpan with good broth or water, if the latter not so large the quantity, let this simmer for three hours, skim and season it well; if water is used instead of broth, the gravy must be strained before it is used. 5. BEEFGRAVY. Cut a piece of the cheek or neck into pieces, strew some flour over it, mix it well with the meat, and put it into the saucepan with as much water as will cover it, an onion, a little allspice, a little pepper, and some salt, cover it close, and when it boils skim it, then throw in a small crust of bread, or raspings, and stew it till the gravy is rich and good, strain it off, and pour it into a sauce boat. 6.—gravy.—CLEAR. Slice some beef thinly, broil a part of it over a very clear quick fire just enough to give colour to the gravy, but not to dress it; put that with the raw into a tinned stewpan with a couple of onions, one or two cloves, whole black pepper, berries of allspice, and a bunch of sweet herbs, cover it with hot water, give it one boil, and skim it two or three times, then cover it, and let it simmer till quite strong. 7. GBAVY SOUr. Nothing is better than shin of beef for this soup, though pieces of the rump and other parts are used; the shin should be sawed in several places, and the marrow extracted; this, if laid in the bottom of the saucepan will take the place of butter; if marrow is not forth- coming butter must be employed; take a fourth of the quantity of ham, stew gently until the gravy is extracted, care being taken it 38 . MEAT SOUPS. does not bum; a little water may be employed by the inexperienced, but not much; when it has nearly dried up again put in herbs, a couple of carrots cut very small, pepper ground, salt, a little white sugar, this can be omitted, but it materially adds to the flavour; add boiling water in requisite quantity, stew gently for five hours; when cold remove the fat, and warm up as wanted. 8.—GRAVY SOUP. Take a leg of beef and well wash "and soak it, break the bone and put it into a saucepan with a gallon of water, a large bunch of sweet herbs, two large onions sliced and fried to a nice brown, taking great care they are not burnt, two blades of mace, three cloves, twenty berries of allspice, and forty of black pepper, stew till the soup is as rich as you wish it to be, then take out the meat, when it is cold take off the fat, heat the soup with vermicelli, and the nicest part of a head of celery boiled and cut to pieces, cayenne, and a little salt, carrot may be added with turnip cut into small pieces and boiled with spinach and endive, or the herbs without the vermicelli, or vermicelli only, add also a large spoonful of soy and one of mushroom ketchup, a French roll should be made hot and put into the soup. 9. BLOOD OR TEAL GRAVY. Put a few slices of ham into "a thick stewpan, and lay over it some slices of lean veal, half cover the meat with jelly stock, stew it over a brisk fire, taking care that it does not burn, when the broth is reduced thrust a knife into the meat so that the gravy may run out, then stewing it more gently till brown, turning the meat frequently, when of a dark red colour moisten with hot stock, season with shred mushrooms, parsley, and green onions, when it has boiled an hour skim and strain it through a tammy for use to clarify. 10.—ox TAIL. One tail will do for a tureen of soup; cut it into joints,—but in town your butcher will cut it for you—blanch it a few minutes in water, then add some good clear second stock to the pieces, and let them gently boil until tender, skim off all grease from them, add sufficient con- somme stock you require, add exactly the same roots as for saute soup, only differing in shape and size, similar to the roots you would cut for a haricot, and use small button onions instead of the cut onions, season as before, dish your meat into the soup tureen with a large ragout spoon, or you will smash them to pieces. 11.—OX-TAIL SOUP. Same as No. 7; add about three ox-tails, separated at the joints, when the meat upon them is tender it is done; they must not be over stewed; add a spoonful of ketchup or Harvey's sauce, and send to table with pieces of the tail in the soup. MEAT SOUPS. 39 12. MACCARONI SOUP. Cut some pipe maccaroni, "about an inch long, after you have blanched it; do not boil it too much; it will take longer than vermi- celli; keep the pieces in cold water until you require them for your soup, when you will strain them off and add to your consomme; season as for Italian soup; send up on a small plate or dish, on a napkin, some grated Parmesan cheese. 18. MACCARONI SOUP. Take a given weight of maccaroni in proportion to the quantity of soup required, say one pound, boil it in a quart of white stock until it is tender, take out one half and keep the other boiling until it is reduced to a pulp. Add sufficient stock until the whole with half a pint of cream, boiling, makes five pints; grate eight ounces of Parmesan cheese, and add the half of the maccaroni which had been only boiled tender, warm it without boiling, serve with toast. 14.—SAGO soup. Take three pounds of lean beef, a slice of lean ham, and lay them in a stewpan with a lump of butter, draw the gravy gently, add two quarts of water, and a sliced onion which has been browned by frying in fresh butter, add a bunch of sweet herbs, six cloves, a blade of mace, a tea-spoonful of allspice, and one of black pepper whole, stew until the soup is rich and brown, then remove the meat and strain the soup clear, put it into a clean stewpan, thicken it to a good con- sistency with sago. 15.—nAKED sour. Cut into slices a pound and a half of lean beef, put it into a stew- pan or earthenware jar, and three onions sliced, the same number of carrots, cut up, add also three ounces of rice, which has been soaked two hours previously and 'thoroughly washed, a pint of white peas, season with pepper and salt, cover down close, and bake two hours. 16.—CURRY SOUP. Cut the meat from an ox-cheek, and soak it well, put it in a stew- pan, with four onions cut in slices, a bunch of pot herbs; add three quarts of water; remove the scum frequently, and strain; add half a pound of soaked rice, one tea-spoonful of curry-powder, a little pepper and salt; and stew four hours. 17.—SOUP AND BOUILLI. Stew a brisket of beef with some turnips and carrots, onions, and celery, all cut small; put the beef into the pot first, then the roots, add a few cloves and half a pint of beef gravy, simmer an hour, add sufficient beef gravy to fill the pan, boil gently for half an hour. 40 MEAT SOUPS. 18.—SOUP A LA SAP. Divide a pound of beef into thin slices, grate half a pound of potatoes, and put them in three quarts of water, add an onion, a pint of grey peas and three ounces of rice, reduce it by boiling to five pints, cut two heads of celery and put them into the stewpan, pour upon them the five pints of soup and pulp the boiled peas into it through a fine tammy or coarse cloth, stew until it is quite tender, season with pepper and salt, and serve up with fried bread cut in dice. 19.—HESSIAN SOUP. Cut into slices three pounds of shin of beef, lay it in a stewpan, put in three onions, five carrots, eight potatoes, a pint and a quarter of split peas, three heads of celery, some whole pepper, salt; pour in by degrees seven quarts of water, stew until reduced to half. If the soup alone be required strain off the vegetables, if not, serve as cooked. 20. COCK-A-LEEKIE. Put into a stewpan as much beef stock as you desire to send to table; put in an old fowl, six leeks sliced about two inches long; stew gently half an hour previous to serving; put in six to eight ounces of prunes; serve the fowl on a separate dish. 21. SOUPA LA FRANCHISE. Place in the stew-pan six pounds of beef, add a few small veal bones, or one about a pound weight, add a couple of fowls' heads, and a small piece of calf' s liver, cover with four quarts of water; when it boils remove the scum, add three or four leeks, a couple of turnips, head of celery, a burnt onion, a large carrot, salt, simmer slowly seven hours; let every particle of scum be removed, serve with sippets of bread in the soup. 22.—A CHEAP SOUP. A pound or a pound and a half of beef lean, cut up into small pieces, add six quarts of water, three large onions, double the quan- tity of turnips; put in thyme, parsley, pepper, and salt, half a pound of rice, a pound of potatoes, peeled and cut in quarters, handful of oatmeal; stew from three to four hours, not less. M.—A GOOD AND CHEAP SOUP. Cut in slices, four pounds of lean beef, mutton if lean will answer the same purpose, fry them brown, and lay them with their gravy in the stew-pan, cut six carrots and as many turnips in slices, the latter MEAT SOUPS. 41 may be only quartered, three tolerably sized onions, two table spoon- fuls of black pepper whole, and two heads of celery with their green tops on, let it boil and then simmer till the meat is reduced to a pulp, strain it, and serve with or without the vegetables. M.— PORTABLE SOUP. There are many advantages connected with this soup, which will present themselves to the lady housekeeper, its constant readiness for use, its forming an excellent stock for gravies, sauces, or soups; a few minutes will suffice to make a bason of soup from it. Take three pounds of beef, a shin of beef, the bones of which break, a cow-heel and two small knuckles of veal, put them in a stewpan and add as much water as will barely cover them, put in three onions and seasoning to taste, stew the meat to ribbons, strain, and then put it in the coldest place you can command, when thoroughly cold take off the fat and boil it fast in a stewpan without the lid on a quick fire, let it boil and keep it stirred for at least eight hours, pour it into a pan and let it stand twenty-four hours, then take your largest lip bason and turn the soup into it, boil sufficient water in the stewpan to reach as high outside the bason which is placed in it as the soup is inside, but do not let any bubble into the bason, keep the water boiling until the water is reduced to a good con- sistency; it will be then done; it should then be poured into small jelly pots, or in saucers, so as to form cakes when cold, and is best preserved in tin canisters put in dry cool places. This soup may receive various flavours of herbs or any thing else, by boiling the herbs or other ingredients, and straining the simples noted through water, making it boil, and then melt the soup in it. 25.—CONSOMME. Take eight or ten pounds of beef-steaks, eight old hens, two young ones, four knuckles of veal, put these into a large pot and fill it with strong broth, skim it well, cooling it three or four times to make the scum rise, after which let it boil gently. Put into the pot carrots, turnips, onions, and three cloves; when your meat is sufficiently done, pass the liquor through a fine napkin or sieve, that it may be very clear. No salt need be put in if strong broth be used. M.WHITE PORTABLE SOUP. Procure as fine a leg of veal as can be obtained, bone it, remove the whole of the skin and fat, chop in pieces two dozen fowls' feet, wash them well, put them into a large iron kettle with three gallons of water, stew until the meat is tender enough to separate, cover down close and stew for eight hours, take a tea-cup and fill it with the soup, set it where it can quickly cool, if when cold it is hard enough to cut with a knife, strain through a sieve and remove all the 42 MEAT SOUPS. fat, pour into cups the clear jelly, put them into a stewpan with boiling water until they are like glue; let them cool, and when nearly cold run a ring round them and turn them on to a piece of new flannel, it will draw all the moisture out of them, turn them in seven hours and continue until they are quite hard, put them in tin canisters iu a dry place. When any is required, cut a piece about the size of a walnut, pour a pint of boiling water upon it, stir until the soup is dissolved, season with salt, it will make a basin of strong broth; if for soup steep some vermicelli in water; boil it; then to one cake of the soup pour one pint of water, if two quarts or four pints of soup are required, take four cakes of the soup, and when melted set it over the fire and simmer, pour it into a soup tureen, add thin slices of bread very lightly toasted, and upon them the vermicelli; season to palate. 27. TRANSPARENT SOUP. Cut the meat from a leg of veal in slices as thin as possible, break the bone as small as possible, put the meat into a very large jar and the bones at the top, with a bunch of sweet herbs, a quarter of an ounce of mace, four ounces of blanched garden almonds beat fine, pour upon it a gallon of boiling water, let it simmer over a slow fire twelve hours, all night is best; turn it into a double-bottomed tin saucepan, simmer until reduced to two quarts, remove as it rises the scum, strain it and let it stand two hours, pour into a saucepan, taking care not to let any of the sediment accompany it. Steep two ounces of vermicelli in water, boil it aud put it in the soup before serving up. 28. SOUP ITALIENNE. Cut the meat from a knuckle of veal, break up the bones and make a broth of them, cut half a pound of ham in slices and lay them at the bottom of a stewpan, upon them the meat from the knuckle of veal, with the slices of four carrots, four turnips, a dozen peppercorns, two blades of mace, a large onion, and a head of celery; cover down close; stew till the gravy is drawn out and the roots are quite tender, pour over them the broth made from the bones of the knuckle until they are covered, add six spoonfuls of rice, stew four hours, work the soup through a sieve, add vermicelli before serving. 29. ITALIAN SOUP. Blanch about two ounces of Italian stew-paste (or any portion pre- ferred) a few minutes, strain it off, and put it in a basin of cold water until wanted, it must be boiled a short time in some good con- somm6 stock; season as before, using less sugar. 30. VERMICELLI SOUP. Blanch as the Italian paste, but first give the vermicelli a squeeze to break it a little, or otherwise it will hang disagreeably about the MEAT SOUPS. 43 ladle or spoon in eating, at the risk of spoiling a lady's dress or causing a confused blush. Season as before. 31. ESPAGKOLE. Take fourteen pounds of the leg or shoulder of veal and an old fowl, chop the veal into pieces, and put the whole into a saucepan, two carrots, two Onions, a pound of ham, a few peppercorns, a small quantity of spice and a clove of garlic, let this stew over the fire, shaking it frequently till it becomes of a brown colour, add hot water to come four inches above the meat, set it by the stove to boil gently, skimming when the meat comes from the bones, strain it through a silk sieve, and set it by for use. 32. SOUPA LA REINEVICTORIA. Take a pound and a half of lean veal, place it in a stewpan with a slice of bacon which must not be fat, an onion with one clove, a blade of mace, a head of celery, a handful of sweet herbs. four ounces of fresh butter, and some whole white pepper, set it over a clear fire, move it frequently to prevent burning, or the flavour is ruined. Have some white gravy ready, thicken it, add two quarts to the above ingredients with a few strips of mushrooms; let it boil, and when it reaches that point remove it, skim it clean of all scum or fat. Have ready some vermicelli which has been soaked five minutes in cold water and subsequently stewed in a strong broth; strain on it the soup and serve with blanched chervil leaves in it. 33. MULLIGATAWNEY SOUP. A calf's head divided, well cleaned, place with a cow-heel, in a well tinned saucepan; boil them till tender, let them cool, cut the meat from the bones in slices, and fry them in butter, stew the bones of the head and heel for some hours; when well stewed, strain, let it get cold and remove the fat. When this is accomplished cut four onions in slices, flour them, fry them in butter until brown, add a table-spoonful and a half of best curry powder obtainable, cayenne pepper one tea-spoonful with a little salt, turmeric powder sufficient to fill a dessert spoon is sometimes added, but the improvement is not manifest to a refined English palate, the curry powder being deemed all that is necessary; add these last ingredients to the soup, boil gently for about an hour and a half, add two dessert-spoonfuls of Harvey's sauce; serve. 34. INDIAN METHOD. Slice six onions, and seven or eight shalots, place in stewpan with six ounces of butter, cut a pair of young fowls, as though for fricasee, season copiously with white pepper, place the chickens upon the onions, stew gently rather more than an hour; then remove the 44 MEAT SOUPS. pieces of chicken, flour each well, put them again in the pan, with four dessert-spoonfuls of curry powder, add one of turmeric; pour at least two quarts of gravy to this, and stew slowly for an hour, add a small quantity of cayenne pepper, with lemon juice, that of half a lemon will suffice. Boil a pound of best rice until soft; serve in a separate dish, boxed with small pieces of toast cut into squares, A rabbit will serve the same purpose as a chicken. 35.—calves' foot soup A la. tureen. This soup I frequently make from calves' feet, after having taken the stock from them for jelly, but I do not boil them so much as though I did not require them; take out all the bones and lay them to get cold, then cut them into large square pieces; if quite tender to eat, put them into your tureen; sweat down a small slice of raw ham and veal, a few mushrooms, two onions, a sprig of parsley, a blade of mace, a large faggot of sweet herbs, with plenty of basil, dry all well up with flour, strain it through a tammy cloth or sieve; season with cayenne pepper, salt, and lemon, add a wine glass or two of white wine at the last, then put in the cut meat to get hot. M. —calves' tail soup. Get three calves' tails, let them be cut in joints, and put into (after blanching them) some good white stock, and stew them well for several hours; proceed as for the former soup, season, likewise, the same, but leave out the basil. 37.—lambs' tails soup. Four lambs' tails, cut in joints, will make this soup, proceeding the same way as the former, leaving out the sweet herbs; add cream, as to the former, and one glass of white wine. 38. MUTTON SOUP. Cut a neck of mutton into four pieces, put it aside, take a slice of the gammon of bacon and put it in a saucepan with a quart of peas with enough water to boil them, let the peas boil to a pulp and strain them through a cloth, put them aside, add enough water to that in which is the bacon to boil the mutton, slice three turnips, as many carrots, and boil for an hour slowly, add sweet herbs, onions, cabbage, and lettuces chopped small, stew a quarter of an hour longer, suffi- cient to cook the mutton, then take it out, take some fresh green peas, add them with some chopped parsley and the1 peas first boiled to the soup, put in a lump of butter rolled in flour, and stew till the green peas are done. MEAT SOUPS. 45 39.—LAMB SOUP May be cooked as above, save that beef should be substituted for the bacon. 40.—LEG OF BEEF BROTH. Take a leg of beef, break the bone in several places, place it in a pan with a gallon of water, remove the scum as it rises and add three blades of mace, a crust of bread, and a small bunch of parsley; boil till the beef is tender; toast some bread, cut it in diamonds, lay it in the bottom of the tureen, put the meat on it, and pour the broth over all. 41. BBOTH. Put the mouse round of beef, a knuckle-bone of veal, and a few shanks 'of mutton into a deep pan, and cover it close with a dish of coarse paste, put water enough to cover the meat, and bake it till tender; when cold let it stand in a cool place, covered close, flavour it as you please. 42. VEAL BROTH. Stew a knuckle of veal; draw gravy as for stock, add four quarts of water, with celery, parsley, and an onion; simmer till reduced to half, add two or three ounces of rice, but not until the soup is nearly cooked, so that when served the rice may be no more than done. Vermicelli may be used in preference, or for change. 43. MUTTON BBOTH. Three pounds of the scrag of mutton, put into two quarts of cold water, add onion, and turnips, pepper, and salt, a few sweet herbs, and a little pearl barley; skim well, and boil four hours. These ingredients chiefly depend upon whether this dish is made for an invalid, if so, the omission of any of the ingredients will be regulated according to the advice of the medical attendant. 44. SHEEP'S HEAD BROTH. Split the sheep's head and well wash it, take out the brains, let the head soak for an hour in cold water; boil three quarters of a pound of Scotch barley in eight quarts of water, and when it boils put in the head with a neck of mutton, slice carrots thin and cut turnips small, add them with some salt; let it boil for three hours, and skim with care and frequency. When it has boiled two hours and a half add some onions chopped very fine. In warming up this soup it must be stirred gently over a clear fire and allowed to boil no longer than three minutes. 46 SOUPS OF POULTRY, GAME, ETC. 45. CHICKEN BROTH. Joint a chicken, wash the pieces, put them into a stewpan with three pints of water, and add two ounces of rice, two or three blades of mace, some white pepper whole, a pinch of salt: let it come to a boil, skim frequently, simmer for three hours; boil for five minutes in the soup some vermicelli, and serve with it in the soup. M.—SCOTCH BARLEY BROTH. Throw three quarters of a pound of Scotch barley into some clean water, when thoroughly cleansed place it with a knuckle of veal in a stewpan, cover it with cold water, let it slowly reach a boil, keep it skimmed, add seven onions, and simmer for two hours, skim again and add two heads of celery and two turnips cut in slices or any shape it pleases the cook; add as much salt as required to make it palatable, let it stew for an hour and a half, it must be well skimmed before the broth is dished; the meat must be previously removed and the broth alone sent to table. If it is intended to send the veal to table with it, dress it as fol- lows; take two pints of the broth and put it into a stewpan over a clear fire, add two table-spoonfuls of flour to the broth, and keep the broth stirring as you shake it in until it boils, add a little cayenne pepper, two table-spoonfuls of port, boil for two minutes, strain it over the veal and send to table. SOUPS OF POULTRY, GAME, ETC. 47. GIBLET SOUP. Scald and clean thoroughly two sets of goose giblets or twice tho number of duck giblets, cut them in pieces, put them in three quarts of stock, if water is used instead of stock add a pound of gravy beef, a bunch of sweet herbs, a couple of onions, half a table-spoonful of whole white pepper, as much salt, and the peel of half a lemon; cover all with water, stew, and when the gizzards are tender strain the soup. Now put into a stew-pan a paste made of an ounce of butter and a spoonful of flour, stir it over the fire until brown, pour in the soup, let it boil stirring it well all the while; in ten minutes skim and strain it, add a glass of Madeira, a salt-spoonful of cayenne, a dessertspoonful of mushroom ketchup, squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, served up with the giblets in the soup, it should be sent to table as hot as possible. 48. GIBLET SOUP. Get two sets of giblets, blanch them, and throw them into cold water, then cut them in pieces about one inch long, the gizard, liver, BOOTS OF POULTRY, GAME, ETC. 47 and heart cut in thin slices, put them into some good second stock and stew them until tender, strain off some of that stock, cut up in dice a piece of lean ham, two onions, a faggot of sweet herbs, a few mushrooms or the parings, a blade or two of mace, six cloves, a bay leaf, try all a nice light brown; if for brown giblet soup, dry all up with flour, add the stock you have strained from the giblets and boil it well, then strain it through a tammy or tammy sieve into the stew pan with the giblets, boil all together, clear off all grease, season with salt, sugar, cayenne pepper, lemon-juice, and white wine. If for white giblet soup, do not let your butter brown, and add half a pint of good cream, and the wine, and lemon, the last thing, in case of curdling your soup. 49.—HARE SOUP. An old hare is fitted only for soup or jugging. To render it into soup let it be cleaned, cut into pieces, add a pound and a half or two pounds of beef, to which there is little or no fat; place it at the bottom of the pan, add two or three slices of ham or bacon, or a little of both, a couple of onions, and some sweet herbs, add four quarts of boiling water, let it stew to shreds, strain off the soup, and take away the fat; reboil it, add a spoonful of soy or Harvey's sauce, send to table with a few force-meat balls. 50.—hare soup. If possible procure a hare that has been coursed; in skinning it, and blowing it, take care of all the blood. Cut it up in small pieces, add about six onions, a faggot of sweet herbs, a bay leaf, four blades of mace, six cloves, a few peppercorns, about one pound of lean ham cut in dice, a few mushrooms or parings, cover all with your brown second stock, stew all until tender, then take up a few of the best pieces of meat to go into your soup from the rest, take out all the bones, then rub all the meat and stock through a tammy until all the meat has gone clean through; return it to your stewpan; if not thick enough, add a little flour and butter thin; season with cayenne pepper, salt, and port wine, then add the best pieces of meat you had previously taken care of. Be sure it has been well skimmed from grease. 51.—SOUP LORRAINE. Pound in a mortar a pound of blanched almonds, use a little water, or they will oil; add to these the meat of the breast and legs of a roast fowl, and with the yolks of four poached eggs beat up into a smooth mixture; warm three quarts of white stock, stir in the ingredients, and boil them over a slow fire. Chop the meat of the legs, wings, and breast of a second fowl until it is minced fine; season it with nutmeg, pepper, salt, and finely pounded mace: melt a lump of butter, strain a small quantity of the soup, and add to the 48 SOUPS OF POULTRY, GAME, ETC. butter one spoonful; cut into slices two French rolls, crisp them be- fore the fire, scoop out the crumb of a third roll, without damaging the crust, fill it with the minced food; close the roll at each end, and make it hot, and keep it so. Strain into a stewpan the soup, and stew it until the consistency of cream; lay the crisped slices of roll in the bottom of the tureen, pour the soup on to it, and serve up with the roll containing the minced fowl floating in the centre. 52. PABTRIDGE SOUP. When you have a brace of partridges which prove to be remarkably old, convert them into soup, skin and cut them up, cut a handsome slice of ham as lean as possible and divide it in four, or cut as many thin slices, put them in the pan, add the partridges with an onion sliced, some celery, and four ounces of butter, brown nicely without burning, put them into the stewpan with one quart and a pint of water, throw in a few white peppers whole, a shank of mutton, salt it to palate, strain, add stewed celery, fried bread, and previous to its boiling skim very clean and serve up. 53. VELOUTE. Take the cuttings and remains of any joints of fowls and veal you may happen to have, weigh four pounds, and put into a large stewpan, with some onions, carrots, parsley, scallions, three bay leaves, three cloves, and a ladleful of stock, put your stewpan upon a brisk fire, skim well, and be careful the meat does not stick; when enough reduced add as much stock as will nearly fill the stewpan, salt it well, give it a boil, skim, and then put it on the side of the fire to simmer for two hours, after which strain it through a tammy; make a white roux; stir into it for ten minutes a few champignons, then pour on it, a little at a time, the above liquor, let it boil up once, skim, and set it again by the side of the fire for an hour and a half, remove all fat, strain again and then put by for use. The velout6, should be colourless, the whiter it is the better. 54. PIGEON SOUP. Take half a dozen of the fattest pigeons you can get, roast them only sufficient to warm them through; cut the meat from the bones; flour the latter well, and pound them in a mortar; stew them in a pint and a half of good gravy, add a piece of butter rolled in flour, a bunch of tarragon, chervil, a few onions, shalots, parsley, and basil, a few turnips and carrots sliced, season with cayenne and one blade of mace. Boil slowly two hours, pour, and pass through a cullender. Pulp through a tammy, and then with the flesh of the pigeons put them into a saucepan. Let it simmer one hour and serve. SOUPS OF POULTRY,GAME, ETC. 49 55. TUBTLE, KILLED AND DBE6SED. Tie a strong cord round the hind fins of the turtle, then hang it up; tie another cord by way of pinion to both fins, that it should not beat about and be troublesome to the person who cuts off the head, then take off the head. All this do the evening before you in- tend dressing it; then lay the turtle on the back shell on your block, then loosen the shell round the edge by cutting it with your sharp knife, then gently raise the shell clean off from the flesh, then next take out the gall with great care, then cut the fore fins off—all the flesh will come with them, then cut the hind fins off, take the liver as whole as you can from the entrails, likewise the heart and the kid- neys; cut the entrails from the back bone, put them in a bucket of water, wash the shell in several waters, and turn it down to drain. In the meantime, cut the fins from the lean meat, then cut the white or belly shell in twelve or fourteen pieces, turn up the back shell and take all the fat from it, taking it out as though you were skinning anything, put the fat in a stewpan by itself, saw a rim off the back shell six inches deep, cut it in about twelve pieces, put a large stewpan full of water on the fire, when it boils dip in a fin for a minute or two, then peal off the shell, and so continue until you have done it all, head and all; then put all the pieces of shell into a stewpan, with about eighteen large onions, and a faggot of sweet herbs, allowing more basil than any other herbs, fill it up with water, let it boil a long time; the next you will cut the fore fins into four pieces, and put them into a stewpan, cover them with water, the hind ones in two each; cover the stewpan; let them boil gently until you can take out all the bones, do not mix them, but put them on differ- ent dishes, put the two liquors in one pan. Cut up the lean meat for entrees, such as grenadins, collops, African- deaux, roasting or boiling as chickens, plates, outlets, or quenelles. Put one pound of butter into a large stewpan, and all the lean next that may be left as useless, cut up three or four fowls, a faggot of turtle herbs, twelve onions, three or four pounds of lean ham, a bottle of Madeira, and a pound of mushrooms, draw it down for one hour, then fill it up with the liquor previously strained from the bones and shells, keep it all boiling gently for several hours, then strain it oflv. taking care of what lean meat you require for your tureens, put it in- your soup pot to keep hot, with a little of the stock. Have the entrails- cleaned and scalded, then cut them into pieces two inches long, then put them on to blanch in cold water, wash them out, line a stewpan with fat bacon, let them stew very gently for about three hours, then thicken the stock as for mock turtle, and rub it through a tammy, add egg balls, or hard boiled eggs, cut in half, and forcemeat balls, or quenelles, the green fat to be boiled by itself in good consomme, a little to be added to each tureen of soup. If to be sent up in the shell, put a pretty rim of raised pie paste round the top shell; add the juice of lemons and a little more wine before you serve it up. Season with sugar, cayenne pepper, and salt. E 50 SOUPS OF POULTRY, GAME, ETC. 56.—MOCK TURTLE Is made much after the same manner. The calf's head being divided, having the skin on, the brains carefully removed and boiled separately in a cloth; it must be placed in the saucepan, with more than enough water to cover it, skim while heating, let it be parboiled, and then let it cool, cut the meat from the head in square pieces, the tongue also, then break the bones of the head in pieces, return them into the water in which they have been boiled, add shin of beef, about three or four pounds, knuckle of veal, three or four onions, two small carrots sliced, a turnip also, with black pepper unground, add the brains pounded, and stew gently five hours, strain, cool, and remove the fat; take a clean stewpan, place in it of fresh butter four ounces; add to it, when fluid, three wooden spoonfuls of flour, stirring it well until it browns, some shalots, or a little of the soup may be added to to this, also parsley, sweet basil, chives, salt, soy, cayenne, and ketchup; strain before you add it to the soup into which you will return the pieces of meat, and boil it for upwards of an hour, previous to dishing half a pint of sherry or Madeira should be added, a lemon squeezed into the tureen in which it is to be served, and when in the tureen add egg balls, twenty or thirty in number. 57. MOCK TURTLE SOUP. This soup if well made, gives general satisfaction. Take a calf's head, thoroughly scraped and cleaned, the skin remaining on; place it in a soup pot, to this add that part of the hand of pickled pork which is free from bones, the fattest end, observing that it is proper to soak it well in water previous to using; put in sweet herbs, a couple of onions, a head of celery if large, a few truffles and morels, two if small, pounded mace and pepper, add plenty of water, without quite filling the saucepan, boil slowly until the meat has become tender, then remove it, and cut the meat from the bone into square pieces, break the bones and put them again into the soup, let it simmer for four or five hours, then place it where it can quickly cool, remove the fat and strain the soup; thicken with flour and butter, add three table-spoonfuls of Harvey's sauce, four or five glasses of sherry or Madeira, and squeeze a whole lemon into it; add the meat of the head and the pork cut into well-shaped pieces, conclude with egg balls, or force-meat, or both, warm it and serve; it will be found a delicious soup. 58. MOCK TURTLE SOUP. Blanch half a calf's head sufficiently to draw out the bones, cut off the ear and the tongue, take off the skin of the tongue, lay all separate until cold, and strain off the liquor, and add it to your veal or second stock; cut the meat into large square dice, put it into a stewpan with your already prepared stock, and stew it until tender, strain off some of the stock, get another stewpan, cut about one pound of lean York or Westphalia ham, one pound of lean veal, a FISH SOUPS. 51 good faggot of basil and knotted-marjorani, two or three blades of mace, six or seven cloves, two bay-leaves, four onions, the parings of a few mushrooms, half a pound of butter, fry them for some time a nice light brown, dry all up with flour, then add your stock you have previously strained from the cut pieces; if too thick add more stock, let all boil for some time, keeping it stirred with a wooden spoon; when boiled sufficient, strain it through the tammy or tammy-sieve into the stewpan that has the cut pieces of the head, boil all toge- ther; season with sugar, cayenne pepper, and salt, juice of lemon, and white wine; if you wish to preserve the old fashion, by having forcemeat balls, egg, &C.,refer for them to the previous receipt; add them to it when they are blanched. I only put hard-boiled eggs, and, if I have any, a few quenelles. 59. POTAGE A LA REINE. Take three or four roast chickens, cut off all the meat, and pound it well with two table-spoonfuls of rice, previously boiled in water for a quarter of an hour. Dilute it with some good consomme, and strain it; then add sufficient quantity of consomme to the puree to make it of the requisite consistence, put the bones of the chickens into the above, and let it simmer over a small fire for two hours, about a quarter of an hour before dinner time; pour some of it over the bread to soak it as usual; just before serving strain the whole through a fine sieve. M.--,A FLAVOURING TO MAKE SOUP TASTELIKE TURTLE. Pour one ounce and a half of shalot wine into the same quantity of essence of anchovies, add a quarter of a pound of basil wine, half that quantity of mushroom ketchup, stir in about half a tea spoonful of curry powder, add half an ounce of thin lemon peel, and half a drachm of citric acid, let it remain for a week. It will be found, when added to soup, to give the flavour of turtle. FISH SOUPS. 61.—STOCK FOR WHITE OB BROWN FISH 80UP. It must be understood that this stock will not keep long, three days being the utmost. Take two pounds and a half of English eels, silver eels as they are termed, they may be known from the Dutch by the white silvery appearance of the belly; cut them in pieces about an inch and a half or two inches long, cut up six fresh flounders and a pound and a half of skate. Place them in the pan with sufficient water to cover them, add two heads of celery, three parsley roots cut in slices, an onion, and sweet herbs; season with pepper, salt, and mace. The onion should be stuck with cloves, and a little of the liquor from any potted fish will improve the flavour, but must E 2 52 FISH SOUPS. not be added until just previous to serving; cover close down and simmer one hour and three quarters, strain off for use. The only difference between this and brown soup is that the fish must be first fried brown in butter. Fish soups may be most numerous; there is scarcely a fish which may not be used for this purpose, the most available and easiest made are those which are composed of the cheaper kinds of fish. 62.—CRAY FISH SOUP. To three quarts of good white stock, add fifty cray fish, having first picked off the tails, the meat from the head and shells, and beat to a paste in a mortar, it will become of the consistency of cream; boil it fifteen minutes, rub it through a tammy, or coarse cloth, season with salt and cayenne pepper: the colour may be heightened by lobster spawn, beat up with the meat of the cray fish, or the juice of beet-root. 63.—EEL SOUP. Take any number of pounds of eels according to the quantity required; add two thirds water. If about three or four pounds of eels add one onion, a small quantity of mace, a little pepper whole, sweet herbs, a crust of the top side of bread, cover down close; stew till the fish separates, strain. Toast slices of bread deep brown but not to burn, cut into triangular pieces or squares, a piece of carrot two inches long cut into four slices lengthways, put into a tureen with the toast, pour the soup on, boiling cream may be added thickened with a little flour, but it should be rich enough without it. 64.—FISH SOUP MAGNIFIQCE. Make stock of skate, flounders, and eels; cut some handsome cutlets from a turbot, salmon, or cod; lay them aside. Make a marinade composed of three turnips, the like number of carrots, two onions, and half a clove of garlie, the flavour of the last is alone desired; the quantity, therefore, may be just sufficient to communi- cate it, and no more: and then, according to the quantity of fish proposed to be cooked, add water, and one third wine, squeezing into it the juice of half a lemon. Stew this together for fifteen minutes, strain it, and let it get cold; then add the cutlets, simmer until the liquor is one third reduced, pour in the stock first made, thicken it with cream, season with a little cayenne and salt; serve up the cutlets in the dish with the soup. 65.—HADDOCK SOUP. Pound in a mortar with a pint of picked shrimps, the meat of a haddock, chop a handful of parsley very fine, and add the whole of the crumb of a French roll which has been steeped in cream; add FISH SOUPS. 53 one egg, and mix well together; make it into balls; stew down into broth two haddocks, seasoned with cayenne and a little mace; pulp through a sieve the meat of the two haddocks, boil up with parsley, thicken with flour and butter, and serve with the forcemeat balls in it. 66. LOBSTER SOUP. Extract the meat from the shells of four hen lobsters, which have been boiled: put the spawn aside, beat the fins and small claws in a mortar; then place both in a saucepan, with two quarts of water, until the whole goodness of the fish has been drawn; then strain the liquor. Beat in a mortar the spawn, a lump of flour and butter; rub it through a sieve into the soup previously strained; simmer without boiling, that the colour may be preserved, ten minutes; squeeze in the piece of a lemon, with a little of the essence of anchovies. When this dish is sent to table as a feature, forcemeat balls are served with it; they are made of minced lobster, spawn, crumb of French roll, egg, and mace pounded; roll it in flour, and serve in the soup. 67.—PUREE OF LOBSTER SOUP. Get two large hen lobsters, take out all the meat, chop and pound it fine, six anchovies boned, put the shells in some second stock to boil for some time, strain off the liquor into your pounded lobsters, boil all until tender, rub all through a tammy,'add one pint of cream; season with cayenne pepper, a little sugar, and salt, and lemon- juice. 68.—MUSSEL SOUP. Put two quarts of mussels into a saucepan, boil them until they open, take the mussel from the shells, separate the sea-weed from them carefully, put them into a stewpan, with a lump of flour and butter, a handful of parsley, and sweet herbs, add three pints of rich gravy; simmer until reduced to a little more than half; serve hot with sippets. 69.—OYSTER SOUP. Beard four dozen oysters, preserve the liquor in opening them, which must be placed with the beards of the oysters in a stewpan, slice skate or sole or any other fish, small fresh water fish will serve excellently well, and adding them, stew for five or six hours; strain and thicken it, add two spoonfuls of soy or any fish sauce, or omit it, to taste. Add the oysters, and when they are warm through, serve. 70.—OYSTER SOUP. Get four flounders, or similar portions of any fish, four dozen of large oysters, blanch them slightly, take off the beards and gristle, 54 VEGETABLE SOUPS. put the beards and fish into some of your best white stock, boil all together for several hours, add four anchovies, washed, strain all off and thicken it with flour and butter, add one pint of cream, put in your oysters you had taken care of the last thing, just boiling them up in the soup; having passed it through a tammy, season it with cayenne pepper, salt, and a small piece of sugar. 71.—skate soup. This is made of stock as just described, save that the proportion of skate should be increased. Add an ounce of vermicelli to the soup which must be boiled for an hour. When ready to serve, beat up the yolks of a couple of eggs in half a pint of cream, add it to the soup; heat a French roll through, soak it in the soup when the vermicelli is added, and serve with it. 72. BROTH, FISH. Set water over the fire in a kettle, according to the quantity of broth to be made, put in the roots of parsley, parsnip, and whole onions, a faggot of sweet herbs, a bunch of parsley, sorrel, and butter; let the whole be well seasoned; then put in the bones and carcasses of the fish, the flesh of which you have used for farms, also the tripes, the tails of cray-fish pounded in a mortar, and four or five spoonfuls of the juice of onions; let these be well seasoned and boiled, then strained through a sieve, put it back into the kettle, and keep it hot to simmer your soups and boil your fish. 73.—QUENELLE SOUPS OF ALT, KINDS. The quenelles must be added after being boiled, at the last, to your soup. 74.—MILK SOUP. Put into a quart of milk two table-spoonfuls of moist sugar, two bay leaves, and a little cinnamon; boil it, pour it into a dish in which you have previously laid some sippets of toasted bread: simmer over a charcoal fire when the bread is soft; mix the yolks of two eggs well beaten with a little milk; put it in the soup, mix well all together, and serve up. VEGETABLE SOUPS. 75. VEGETABLE SOUP. There are numerous methods of making this soup, the variations depending upon the omission or addition of certain vegetables, and in the mode of serving the soup with them or without them. The following is as simple and as palatable as any." VEGETABLE SOUPS. 55 Collect whatever vegetables are in season, take equal quantities, turnips, carrots, cabbage, spinach, celery, parsley, onion, a little mint, &C., add plenty of herbs, cut them fine, put them into the stewpan, in which has previously been placed some oil; stew gently until the vegetables become tender, then add two quarts of boiling water; stew a quarter of an hour and serve. Some cooks advocate the introduction of peas, green or white, to this soup: where they are used, they must be boiled until tender in very little water, then mashed into a very loose paste; the vegetables having been scalded are then added, and two hours will suffice for stewing, season it with salt and pepper. Be careful that it does not burn while cooking, or the whole is spoiled. 76. ARTICHOKE (CALLED PALESTINE) SOUP. About six pounds of Jerusalem artichokes, pared and cut into small pieces, three turnips, a head of white celery, put sufficient good white stock to cover the artichokes, let it boil until quite tender, then rub all through a tammy; if too thick, thin it with good sweet milk; boil all together, add half a pint of cream, season with sugar, salt, and cayenne pepper. Send upon a napkin some nice fried bread, cut in small dice, hot. 77. ASPARAGUS SOUP WITH GREEN PEAS. Make a soup of roots, and when strained, boil a pint of green peas in the liquor. Choose some middling sized asparagus, cut them in pieces about three inches long, blanch them in boiling water, and then throw them into cold water; drain them and tie them in small bunches, split the tops and boil them with the peas. When done, make a puree of them and mix it with the root soup, and garnish with the asparagus. Good meat broth may be used instead of the root soup. 78.—soup de l'aspeboe. Cut into thin slices half a pound of bacon, lay them in the bottom of a stewpan, cut into lumps six pounds of lean beef and roll it well in flour, cover the pan close, shake occasionally until the gravy is all drawn, then add half a pint of old ale and two quarts of water, throw in some whole peppers and a spoonful of salt, stew gently for an hour, skim the fat, and when an hour has elapsed strain off the soup, then put in it some spinach, two cabbage lettuces, the leaves of white beet, a little mint, powdered sweet aroma and sorrel, boil them, then put in the tops of asparagus cut small, when they are tender the soup is done, serve up hot with a French roll in the middle. 79.—asparagus soup (clear). Blanch two hundred tops of asparagus and boil them in a good gravy, serve with sippets of bread just hardened by the fire. 56 VEGETABLE SOUPS. M.--.CABBAGE SOUP. '' Cut your cabbage into four parts, then let them be partly boiled, squeeze them dry and place them in a large brass pan or dish, so that there may be room betwixt each piece of cabbage to take up soup with a large spoon, then let them boil with as much gravy or stock as will cover them; let them stew for two hours before dinner, then put a quarter of a pound of butter and a handful of flour into a saucepan, set it over a fire and, keeping it stirred, add two onions minced and stir it again, then add a quart of veal gravy, boil it a little and pour it all over the cabbage. If you choose you may force pigeons with good force-meat made of veal; fry them, and then stew them with the cabbage, putting in with them a little bacon stuck with cloves, when it has stewed away take off the fat, soak bread in your dish with gravy or stock, place your fowl in the middle and the cabbage all round, garnish the dish with slices of bacon and a little cabbage between each slice. 81.—CABBAGE SOUP. Take four or six pounds of beef, boil with it some black pepper whole for three hours, cut three or four cabbages in quarters, boil them until they are quite tender, turn them into a dish, and serve all together. i 82.—CARROT SOUP. Take a proportionate number of carrots to the quantity of soup to be made, if a small quantity six will suffice; they should be large and of a rich colour, cut them after being thoroughly scraped into thin slices, stew them in some rich stock, say two quarts, until they are tender through, then force them through a sieve or tammy with a wooden spoon until a red pulp is deposited, re-boil it with the stock until it is rich and thick, season with grated white sugar, cayenne pepper, and salt. 83. SOUP A LA CRECr, OR CARROT SOUP. Cut half a pound of lean ham in dice, three onions, four turnips, twelve carrots, the outer side red only, a head of celery, a faggot of sweet herbs, two blades of mace, six cloves, a bay leaf, and half a pound of salt butter; fry all well down in a stew-pan until they get a little brown, then add some second stock, and stew until all the roots are quite tender, then rub it through a tammy sieve or tammy cloth with two long spoons; if very thick, add, more stock. Season with cayenne and black pepper, and salt, and a good bit of sugar; send up on a napkin some nice fried bread cut in small dice, and not greasy. 84.—SOUP CRECI. Cut four onions in slices, grate the same number of carrots, cut up VEGETABLE SOUPS. 57 three lettuces, to which may be added a little chervil; lay them in a stewpan, add a piece of butter, a pint of lintels, and last of all one pint of broth, simmer for half an hour, fill up with good white stock, in which a little rice has been boiled, boil for an hour, take the crumbs of two French rolls, soak them in the stock, rub the whole through a tammy with wooden spoons, serve in a soup tureen when about the thickness of pea soup. 85. CELERY SOUP. Stew fine white celery cut in small slips in gravy, then boil it in good gravy. M.HERB SOUP. Slice three large but young cucumbers, a handful of spring onions, and six lettuces, cut the last small. Put into a stewpan eight ounces of butter, and with it the above vegetables; when the butter has melted, cover, and let it stand over a slow fire an hour and twenty minutes. Add as much stock as may be required for the quantity of soup intended to be served, let it be boiling and simmer for an hour, thicken with flour and butter, or three table spoonfuls of cream. If required to be coloured use spinach juice. '87.—HOTCH POTCH. Put a pint of peas into a quart of water, boil them until they are so tender as easily to be pulped through a sieve. Take of the leanest end of a loin of mutton three pounds, cut it into chops, put it into a saucepan with a gallon of water, four carrots, four turnips cut in small pieces, season with pepper and salt. Boil until all the vegetables are quite tender, put in the pulped peas a head of celery and an onion sliced, boil fifteen minutes, and serve. 88.—ITALIENNE. Put into a saucepan a spoonful of shred parsley, half a spoonful of shalots, the same of mushroom; shred fine half a bottle of white wine, and an ounce of butter; boil this till no moisture remains, then put two ladlefuls of veloute, and one of consomme, set to boil, take care to skim off all the fat; when you find it about the consistence of clear broth, take it from the fire, put it into another vessel, and keep it hot, as in bain marie. 89.—soup a l'italienke. Cut celery, onions, turnips, carrots, leeks, in long shreds, boil them until they are tender, put them into some clear gravy soup, with brown thickening, boil it, and when enough, put in sippets of lightly toasted bread, a glass of port wine; toast a French roll whole, and serve it up in the middle of the tureen. 58 VEGETABLE SOUPS. In the season may be added French beans, sorrel, button onions, asparagus tops, and green peas. 90. SOUP JDLLIENNE. Is similar to saute, only add spinach and lettuce, or any vegetable that may be in season. 91.—SCOTCH LEEK SOUP. Take a dozen leeks, simmer them in two quarts of the liquor in which a leg of mutton has been boiled. Mix one tea-spoonful of oatmeal in cold water until it is very smooth, thicken the soup with it, season and serve. 92.—onion soup. In two quarts of weak mutton broth slice two turnips and as many carrots, strain it. Fry six onions cut in slices, when nicely browned add them to the broth; simmer three hours; skim and serve. 93. SOUP OF SPANISH ONIONS. Put in a stewpan with four Spanish onions, four ounces of butter, a head of celery, a large turnip, a quart of white gravy, and stew until the onions are quite tender, add another quart of gravy and strain. Pulp the vegetables, return them to the soup, boil for half an hour. Keep constantly stirring, immediately Drevious to serving chicken with rice flour worked in butter. 94.—PEA SOUP. Boil to a pulp two quarts of peas, strain them, place in a stewpan four ounces of butter, add two anchovies, a table-spoonful of pounded pepper, twice that quantity of salt, a small handful of parsley and mint, a little beet-root and spinach, stew until tender. Add pulped peas until the soup is of the required consistency, throw in a spoonful fif loaf sugar, boil up and serve. 95. ANOTHER WAY.Wash in clean water, cold, a quart of split peas, drain them, tie them up in a white cloth, boil them half an hour in soft water sufficient to cover them, then take them out, and having placed them in a sauce- pan with three quarts of water in which salt meat has been boiled, if too salt moderate it with fresh water, but do not let it exceed three quarts, then put in the following roots, two whole onions, a head of celery cut in small pieces, a sprig of sweet herbs, and a carrot Simmer gently until the peas are very tender, stir it occasionally to prevent burning. When the peas are sufficiently soft, pulp them through a sieve, mix them with the soup, and season with black pepper. Toast bread, cut it into squares, and serve with the soup, as well as a dish of dried pounded mint. VEGETABLE SOUPS. 59 The stock for this soup may be made of the bones of any salted meat. A ham bone boiled with the soup is very serviceable if the liquor of salt meat is not to be had. M.—GREEN PEA SOUP. Cut down in thin pieces two heads of celery, a good piece of mint, two carrots, two turnips, twelve green onions, a little parsley, and two quarts of peas, two lettuces, a handful of spinach, sweat all down with two quarts of good second stock, let stew until tender, then rub all through a tammy; have a few young peas, boiled green, strained off and put in your tureen; if not a good green, add some green colouring from spinach juice to it the last thing before serving up; season with a good bit of sugar, salt, and pepper. Send up fried bread cut in dice, as before. 97.—GREEN PEA SOUP. Cut up three Cos lettuces, pare and slice three cucumbers, add a pint of young peas, a sprig of mint, an onion, and a little parsley; put all together in a saucepan, add four ounces of fresh butter, stow for half an hour, pour on them a quart of thin gravy, stew two hours, thicken with a piece of butter rolled in flour. M.DRIED GREEN PEA SOUP. Put three pints of split green peas in some soft water with a piece of butter the size of a walnut, simmer until they are soft enough to pulp through a colander, then add boiling water to make the soup, put in a lettuce, and colour with spinach juice. Keep it simmering until it is ready for use, thicken it with butter and flour, season with pepper and salt and one tea-spoonful of sugar. Take out the lettuce before sending to table, and send up some young green peas in its place. They must be boiled until tender before putting in the soup, and should be added only just before serving. 99.—CLEAR PEA 80UP. Boil in two quarts of gravy, a quart of young peas, add a lettuce cut fine, and a small sprig of mint. 100.—PEPPER POT. Put in a stewpan three quarts of water, to this add celery, turnips, carrots, lettuces, cut small, add the bones of cold roast meat of any description, half a pound of bacon, the same weight of salted pork; stew gently until the meat is tender, taking care to skim when it first boils. Boil half a peck of spinach and rub it through a colander, take the bones out of the soup and add the spinach, with it the meat of a 60 VEGETABLE 8QUPS. lobster or crab minced, season with plenty of cayenne pepper, and salt to taste. Suet dumplings may be boiled with it, or a fowl, but this is matter of taste. Mutton or beef may be substituted for bacon or pork, this will be obvious when it is understood that a pepper pot is presumed to consist of an equal proportion of flesh, fish, fowl, and vegetables. \ 101.—potato soup. Put into a stewpan three pints of white stock, take six large potatoes, boil them until they are nearly done, they must be mealy, cut them in slices until they are sufficiently tender to pulp through a sieve, with an onion boiled soft enough for the same purpose. Thicken with flour and butter, season with white pepper, cayenne, and salt. To add to the flavour cream should be added, half a tea-cupful previous to serving, but must not be permitted to boil after adding. 102.—RICE SOUP. Steep some fine rice in cold water for an hour, say four ounces, then boil it, add three quarts of gravy, add a pinch of cayenne, a little salt, and boil five minutes. 103.—saute soup. Cut carrots, and turnips, and onions, and celery, as straws, about one inch long, quite thin; the carrots you will trim, using only the red part, the yellow that is left use for your stock pot; cut your onions in quarters, then cut them the size endways, blanch them for two or three minutes, strain them on the back of a hair sieve to drain, then add them to the quantity of soap required, allowing half a pint to each person; therefore, as you must so reduce it to have the flavour of your vegetables, allow a pint more, reducing it to the quantity you require; season it with lump sugar, cayenne pepper, and salt; be sure and not go to the extreme. 104.—SOUP MAIZE. Melt half a pound of butter in a stewpan, add four heads of celery, the outside stalks, if well cleaned, will be of service; slice five onions and throw in with twenty or thirty sprigs of spinach, cut up four turnips, and add sweet herbs and parsley; simmer for three quarters of an hour, pour in five pints of water, stew for half an hour, serve with sippets of toasted bread. 105.—SPRING SOUP. As saute; the 6ame roots cut differently, and add, if to be had, spinach, cabbage-lettuce, a very little sorrel, as it turns acid on the stomach, all cut rather small, tarragon, chervil, green asparagus, young peas, cucumbers; cut the asparagus about one inch long, cut the tarragon and chervil a little, and a few French beans cut, use VEGETABLE SOUPS. 61 your consomme stock as before, boiling all your green parts particularly green in water a few minutes, leaving them to be sufficiently done in your stock; if you have a cauliflower boiled, pick a few small pieces and put in the soup-tureen; the boiling soup when poured in will make it hot; season as before. 106.—SPRING SOUP Is made as No. 89, with the addition of lettuce and chervil, and instead of cutting the vegetables in shreds cut them in dice. 107.— SOUP SORREL. A SUMMER SOUP. Take a good quantity of sorrel, and mix with it the top leaves of beet-root; boil them thoroughly, press them enough to extract all the water, and chop them until they are almost a paste; when they are quite cold, add the coldest spring water attainable, and mix until rather thicker than cream; cut in thin slices two cucumbers steeped in a mixture of vinegar and a little cayenne; boil three eggs hard, and cut them in very small pieces: now, having chopped the green ends of young onions small, and added to the paste, pour over cream to your taste, and then add the sliced cucumber and boiled egg; serve up garnished with clean white pieces of ice. 108.—TOMATA SOUP. slice two onions and fry them in butter until brown, remove them and fry two dozen tomatoes just sufficient to heat them through, then put them into a stewpan with their gravy and the onions, add a] head of celery and a carrot sliced, stew gently for half an hour, add three pints of gravy, stew an hour and a half, pulp the whole of the vegetables through a sieve, season with white pepper, salt, and cayenne, serve with sippets of toasted bread cut in shapes. 109. TURNIP SOUP. This soup should be made the day before required. Stew a knuckle of veal with an onion, sweet herbs, and a little mace, in six quarts of water; cover down close and stew gently five or six hours, let it be put in a cool place. Before warming remove the fat and sediment, slice six turnips into small pieces, stew them in the gravy until tender, add half a pint of cream, flour, and butter, season with white pepper. 110.—PUREE OF TURNIP SOUP. Get a bunch of turnips, pare them and cut them in thin slices, one head of white celery, one onion, fill up your stewpan with good second white stock, boil them until quite tender, then pass it all through a tammy by rubbing it with wooden spoons, or a tammy sieve, season with sugar, cayenne, and salt. Send up fried bread, as for former soups; add half a pint of cream the last thing. CHAPTER III. MEATS. >-..-.r/ OBSEETATIOIfS ON MEATS. How to choose, and the best parts to choose of meats, are given under their appropriate heads; we will come at once, therefore, to the process of cooking when they have been chosen. If the meat has to be roasted, a clear fire is indispensable; and the fire should also be maintained at one uniform heat by the addi- tion of coal, only in small quantities. If the joint is large, it should be commenced as far from the fire as the apparatus will permit, and as it progresses gradually be moved nearer the fire until done, this will ensure, in large and thick joints, the heart of the meat being properly done, while it prevents the outer parts from being cooked to a chip. A small joint should have a brisk fire, should be well basted, as also larger joints; it should be sprinkled with salt, and dredged with flour when three parts cooked, but it should be remembered that this must not be left until the meat is just cooked, for the fire is apt to catch the flour, and give it a most disagreeable flavour. There are a variety of opinions respecting the washing of meat MEATS. 63 previous to roasting. Many old and experienced cooks declare that it destroys the flavour of meat. Professors of the art, however, hold a contrary opinion. I am not disposed, from my experience to differ so essentially from them as to advise meat to be roasted with- out this operation, but should advise that the meat be not suffered to remain too long in the water, unless frost-bitten, and then it should soak an hour or two previous to cooking. The time necessary for cooking a joint must depend, of course, upon the weight of the joint to be roasted; experience gives not less than fifteen minutes to each pound of meat; where the quantity is very large an extra two or three minutes must be given, but so much depends upon the state of the fire, and the attention directed to the joint while cooking, that the judgment must be exercised; although the above calculation may be taken as a general rule, giving time for any drawback which may occur. In boiling meat, as much attention must be paid as in any other process; if the joint be permitted to boil too rapidly, the cook may be satisfied the meat will go to table as hard as it could be wished to be tender; if while cooking it should be allowed to stop boiling, it will prove underdone when cut, even though more than the usual time be allowed for it to be cooked. The meat generally is better for being soaked a short time, and then wrapping it in a cloth well floured, if fresh; if salt, the water should be kept free from scum as fast as it appears. All joints to be boiled should be put into cold water and heated gradually, and nothing boiled with it save a dump- ling, or if beef, carrots or parsnips. BOAST MEATS. In every case where meat is washed before roasting, it should be well dried before it is put down to the fire, which must be kept clear, banked up to the height it is intended to keep it, and kept at that height until the meat is sufficiently cooked; remember the regula- tion of gradually advancing the meat nearer to the fire while it is cooking, baste with a little milk and water, or salt and water first, but as soon as the fat begins to fall from the meat, put down a clean dish and then baste with the dripping as it falls; the meat should not be sprinkled with salt until nearly cooked, or too much gravy will be produced. Preserve the dripping; pour it from the dish into some boiling water, leave it to cool. When cold it will be hard, white, and all the impurities will be deposited at the bottom. It occasionally happens that the joint cannot be sent to table as soon as cooked; in such case place it on a dish upon a fish kettle of boiling water; place over it a dish cover, and spread over all a cloth; the meat will thus be kept as hot as if placed before a fire, but will not be dried, nor will the gravy be evaporated. BOILING. The leaned in the art of boiling recommend different times for the completion of the process, some allowing fifteen minutes to each 64 MEATS. pound, others twenty. All the best authorities agree in this, that the longer the boiling the more perfect the operation. When taken from the pot the meat must be wiped; some use a clean cloth, but the best way is to have a sponge previously dipped in warm water, and wrung dry; this is also more convenient Be careful not to let the meat stand, but send it to table as quick as possible, or it will darken and become hard. Boiled meat, as well as roast, cannot be served too hot. The operation of boiling is generally treated as a department that requires no art at all. Hence it is that a leg of mutton is called spoiled when boiled, which is to be traced to the bad management of the pot. Hard water is improper to boil meat in, and where soft water is to be procured, should not be thought of; as a cook cannot do justice to her skill, if she is ever so attentive. It is now an established fact among the best judges that the meat should be put in cold water, and not in hot, unless for a special purpose, as that renders it dark and hard; cooks should be careful how they manage the form of certain meat for the pot, by skewering or tying it, so as to make it equal in all parts; for where one part is thick, and the other thin, the latter would be overdone before the thicker parts are acted upon by the boiling water. All meats are best cooked by boiling gently, as fast boiling spoils the meat and does it no quicker. Salted meats should most particularly be slowly boiled—in fact it should scarcely simmer; it is indispensable that the water should cover the meat, consequently the dimensions of the pot should be suited to the bulk of the joint. Large joints, as rumps and rounds of beef, should be boiled in a copper. It is less difficult to regulate the heat of a copper fire than that of a kitchen range. Meat, before boiling or roasting, should be washed, as all meat is improved in colour by soaking. For roasting, it should be wiped before it is put in the oven or on the spit; it is impossible to boil properly without skimming the pot. The instant the pot boils, it should be skimmed and followed up as the scum rises. It will be seen that the above remarks apply to those who have not been able to avail themselves of the many advantages the numerous improvements in cooking apparatus present. BROILING. The cook must prepare her fire in due time. When ready, it should be clear and bright, so clear from black coal and smoke that the chop or steak may come from the gridiron without blemish or taint of sulphur or smoke. The best fuel for a broil is composed of charcoal and coke, as little smoke is emitted from either, even on commencing the fire, and when well ignited, it is entirely free from it; coke added to a brisk coal fire, also burns bright, and is well suited for the operation, though with care a proper fire may be made of good sea coal. There is this amongst other disadvantages, in cutting too thick a steak, the out- BEEF. 65 side is likely to be scorched to horny hardness before the interior is half cooked; hence, to say nothing of the misery of those who have not large mouths, the disappointed epicure must either wait until it is put again on the gridiron, or instead of eating it rare, be constrained to eat it raw. No gridiron should be used but those with fluted bars, which, forming channels, the greater part of the fat which otherwiso falls into the fire, and scorches the steak, is drawn off into a gutter at the bottom, the gridiron should be thoroughly heated, and the bars rubbed with beef or mutton suet previously to putting on the steak, to prevent its being marked by, or adhering to, the bars. A close eye should be kept on the steak to watch the moment for turning it, which is repeatedly done during the process; broiling tongs of convenient size should be used, with which, by a little prac- tice, the steak may be turned with ease and despatch; the cook must have her dish thoroughly heated to receive the broil when done, and the cover hot to place upon it instantly. Even when she has accomplished her task, if the servant who is to take it to table loiters on the way, the steak will have lost its zest. A steak or chop should be briskly cooked, speedily conveyed to table, and served with despatch. 111.—BOAST BEEF. There exists a variety of tastes and opinions respecting the most profitable, as well as the choicest parts of beef, but many of them are choice and profitable too if cooked with skill; the primest parts are roasted, except the round, which should be boiled; the ribs make the finest roasting joint. Where a small quantity is required, it is better for the bones to be cut out and the meat rolled; this should be done by the butcher, who will not only cut cleaner, but skewer the parts into a fillet with more firmness and neatness than the cook, who is not expected to be as expert with the knife and skewer as the butcher. The tops of the ribs are frequently cut off into pieces of three or four pounds; this piece, though occasionally roasted, should be salted; it is then not unlike in flavour to the brisket. In roasting the ribs, or any piece of beef, the precautions men- tioned respecting placing it too near the fire must be observed, and where there is much fat, and it is desired to preserve it from being cooked before the lean, it may be covered with clean white paper skewered over it; when it is nearly done the paper should be removed, a little flour dredged over it, and a rich frothy appearance will be obtained. The joint should be served up with potatoes and other vegetables; the dish should be garnished round the edge with horse- radish scraped into thin curls. This receipt will suffice for all the other roasting parts of beef. 112.—TO COLLAR BEEF. Choose the thinnest end of the flank of beef, it must not be too fat or too lean, the weight will be from eight to ten pounds, let it hang F 66 BEEF. in a cool place twenty-four hours, when the skin appears moist, rub in some coarse brown sugar, and in forty-eight hours afterwards you may place it in a pan in which there is a brine, made of three quarters of a pound of salt and an ounce and a half extract of saltpetre, rub it well with the brine for a week, take out the bones, the gristle, and the inner skin. Make a seasoning of sweet herbs, parsley, sage, pepper, ground spice, and salt, cover the beef well with it, roll it in a cloth, and tie firmly and securely with broad tape; boil it six hours, but boil gently, take it out, and while hot, and without disturbing the fasten- ings, place upon it a weight, that when cold and unrolled it may retain its shape. 113.—TO COOK THE INSIDE 01' A SIRLOIN. Take out the inside of the sirloin in one piece, put it into a stew- pan, and sufficient good gravy to cover it, season with mixed spice, pepper, salt, and cayenne, and a spoonful of walnut ketchup: more of the latter may be added, if the quantity made should require it to flavour; serve with pickled gherkins cut small. 114. ANOTHER WAY. Cut the inside of the sirloin into pieces, dredge it with flour, put it into a frying-pan in which some butter is boiling; when it is browned, put it into two stewpan with some brown gravy, highly seasoned, squeeze in half a lemon, and serve. 115.—ANOTHER WAY. Cut it in strips, as for collops, flatten it, flour, and fry in butter, lay in the centre of it hot dish a mound of spinach, with poached eggs on tho top, lay the beef round the spinach. 11 6.— FILLET OF BEEF ROASTED. If unaccustomed to the use of the knife, the butcher's aid may be obtained to cut the fillet which comes from the inside of the sir- loin, it maybe larded or roasted plain; for high dinners it is larded; baste with fresh butter. It must be a large fillet which takes longer than an hour and twenty minutes; serve with tomato sauce, garnish with horse radish, unless served with currant jelly, then serve as- with venison or hare. 117.— FILLET OF BEEF. Take ribs of beef, hang as many days as ribs, bone it, roll it, sprinkle well with salt after boning, and roast it. 118. FILLET OF BEEF A LA MARINADE. Take the under side of a sirloin of beef, keep the fat on one side, trim it and lard it, and lay it into two deep and long dish; cut k> BEEF. 67 thin slices carrots, turnips, onions, and celery, a sprig or two of parsley and sweet herbs, a few blades of mace, cloves, and whole pepper, two teacupfuls of vinegar, and one of cold water, and one of port wine, let it lie a day or two, basting it frequently with the liquor on the top; then braise it as you would the former over a slow fire, and a little on the cover; stew until tender. 119.—FILLET, OR ROUND OF BEEF—SPICED. Get the ribs of beef. Have ready pounded and sifted, some cloves, mace, allspice, pepper, a few coriander seeds, a little saltpetre, and bay salt; mix all well together, rub your beef well, then tie it tightly up into a good round fillet; let it lie for a day or two, then put it into the oven to set the meat, then place it in a stewpan with it little second stock; put fat bacon at the bottom of the stewpan, and half a pint cf port wine, stew it about two hours according to the size, make a very good sauce, reduce the liquor, and take off all the fat, until sufficient to make the sauce, which you will add to some good cooley, with some chopped dressed mushrooms; season with cayenne pepper and salt; if approved of, add some hot pickles of different colours, the last thing in the sauce. Add a dust of sugar to your sauce. 120.—BOND DE BCSUF EN MINIATURE. Bone a rib of beef, skewer the meat as a fillet of veal, pickle it five days in a brine composed of common salt, saltpetre, bay salt, and coarse sugar; put it into hot water but not boiling water, let it simmer but not boil, if eight or nine pounds it will take two hours and longer in proportion to the weight. If it is found that the skewer does not shape it sufficiently like a round of beef, bind it with tape, this will perhaps be proved the best method to proceed with at first. 121. A. SALT ROUND OF BEEF. Use the spice as for the fillet of beef, but salt as usual for a round of beef. Let it lie for a week, frequently rubbing it; boil it in a cloth; send up carrots, and turnips, and suet dumplings, and a little gravy from what it was boiled in, adding a little consoinme, or it will be too salt. Young cabbages in a dish, send up. 122. BEEFOLIVES. Cut into slices about half an inch in thickness, the uuderdone part of cold boiled, or roast beef, cut an eschalot up finely, mix it with some crumbs of bread, powdered with pepper and salt, and cover the slices of meat with them, then roll, and secure them with a skewer, then put them into a stewpan, cover them with the gravy from the beef mixed with water, stew gently, when tender they are done enough, serve them with beef gravy. F 2 68 BEEF. ■ — . 123 RUMP OF BEEF.Take out the large bone of a rump of beef, take your largest larding pin, or the point of your steel will do, cut some pieces of bacon four inches long according to the size of your beef a square, withdraw your steel and introduce the cut bacon in the holes of the lean part of the beef in several places, then tie up the beef as the brisket, and proceed exactly the same as in the former dish. 124.—STEWED RUMP OF BEEF. Half roast the beef: then place it in the stewpan, add three pints or two quarts of water, according to the weight of the joint, two wine-glasses of vinegar, three of red wine, more if expense be not considered, a bottle not being too much; cider is sometimes used, but the meat may be stewed without it, add three spoonfuls of walnut ketchup, two or three blades of mace, a shalot, a dessert-spoonful of lemon pickle, cayenne pepper, and salt, cover the stewpan close down, stew gently for two hours, or three if the rump of beef is large, take it up and place it in the dish in which it is to be served, keep- ing it hot in the manner previously prescribed; remove the scum from the gravy in which it has been stewed, and strain it; add half a pint of mushrooms, three table-spoonfuls of port wine, a spoonful of Harvey's sauce, thicken with flour and butter, pour over the beef, garnish with pickles, forcemeat balls, and horseradish. . 125.—hunter's reef. Hang for three days a round of beef of twenty pounds, at the expiration of that time rub it with brine, composed of three ounc<» of saltpetre, twelve ounces of salt, a spoonful of allspice, one of black pepper, an ounce of coarse brown sugar; before it is rubbed with this mixture it must be boned, and it must be rubbed well every day, turning for a fortnight. When it is to be dressed put it into a stewpan, pour in a pint of water, shred a quantity of mutton suet, cover the meat with it, lay over it a thick crust, attaching it round the edge of the pan, tie over securely with paper, and bake for six hours in an oven moderately heated; take away the paper and crust, chop some parsley very fine, sprinkle it over the beef, and serve it cold. It will keep some time; the gravy will make a good flavouring for soups. 126.—SPICED BEEF. A joint from the round, rump, or flank, from ten to fourteen pounds is the usual weight of the piece intended to be thus dressed. Make a mixture of the following ingredients, and let them be well amal- gamated; pound finely as much mace as will quite fill a tea-spoon, grind a nutmeg to powder, and add it, also two spoonfuls of cloves, one fourth of that quantity of cayenne pepper, and half a pound of BEEF. 6y coarse brown sugar; rub the beef well with this mixture for three days, turning it each day once; add three quarters of a pound of salt, and then continue rubbing well each day, for ten days more; at the expiration of that time dip it into some cold clear spring water, twice or thrice, secure it into a handsome shape, put it into a stewpan with a quart of good beef broth, let it come to a boil, skim as the scum rises, and as soon as it boils put in three carrots cut in slices, a bundle of sweet herbs, a little parsley, and an onion; stew gently four hours. If it is intended to serve this dish cold, let it remain until it is cool in the liquor in which it was boiled, but take the precaution to put the meat into a clean pan, and pour the liquor over it. 127.—A PICKI-E FOB BEEF. r To one gallon of water put two pounds and a half of common salt, one ounce of saltpetre, half a pound of coarse sugar, boil it for a quarter of an hour, and be particular while boiling to remove every particle of scum while rising, that it may be as clear as possible, let it be cold when poured upon the beef. If it is desired to make the pickle last for a very long time, add a gallon of spring water to the above quantity, which should, if for keeping, be also spring water, add three ounces of saltpetre, two pounds of bay salt, and a pound and a half of coarse brown sugar. Whatever joints are put into this pickle, they should be kept closely covered down. Prepare thus the beef for pickling, keep it as long as you can without taint, spread over it coarse sugar, and let it remain for two days to drain. Rub the beef thoroughly with the pickle, and let it remain in it eight, ten, twelve, or fourteen days, according to its size and quantity, a con- siderable quantity of beef may be pickled together, indeed the closer it is packed the better, so that it is covered with the pickle and kept tightly down; when they are taken out of the pickle, lay some sticks across the pan and let them drip into it, when as much has fallen from them as will, wipe them dry, and they may either be cooked at once or dried; if the latter be determined upon, after having well dried them smoke eight hours over burnt sawdust and damp straw, or sew them in a cloth and send them to the baker, and let them hang seven or eight days. Do not, as in the other receipt, boil the pickle before using the first time, but after it has been once used, and every succeeding time, observing that it must be kept skimmed, and each time of boiling, add a quart of water and a couple of pounds of salt. This pickle will answer equally well for hams or tongues. 128. HUNG BEF.F. Take twelve to fourteen pounds of the flank of beef, throw over it a handful of salt; let it drain twenty-four hours, Make a brine of one pound of salt, one ounce of saltpetre; let them be quite dry, and pound them to a fine powder before using, a quarter of a pound of bay salt and two ounces of coarse sugar. If it is intended to make 70 BEEF. the beef red, add three grains of cochineal; rub the beef with this brine for a week, and then turn it; let it remain two days, and then rub in again for seven or eight days; then let it drain from the pickle. Send it to the baker's to be smoked. When wanted for dressing, put it into cold water more than enough to cover it, boil gradually until enough, and put it under a heavy weight while hot. It may be served with carrots and greens, or, if for grating, choose a lean piece, put it in boiling water; keep it boiling rapidly; four pounds will take an hour. 129.—BEEF HU.NG. The best piece is the navel piece, it must be hung up in a cellar until it is a little damp, but not long enough to change, take it down and wash it well in brown sugar and water, dry it with a cloth, cut it in two or three pieces, take half a pound of brown sugar, two pounds of bay salt dried and pounded small, six ounces of saltpetre dried and beat fine, rub it well into the beef, then rub common salt over it as much as will make it salt enough, let it lie together ten days, chang- ing the pieces from the bottom to the top, hang it where it may have the warmth of the fire, but not too near; when it is dressed boil it in hay and pump water until tender; it will keep two or three months, when mouldy dip it in water. 130.—DUTCH HUNG BEEP. Rub a lean piece of beef about twelve pounds with treacle, and turn it frequently, in three days wipe it dry, salt it with a pound of salt and an ounce of saltpetre in fine powder, rub well in, turning every day for fourteen days, roll it as tightly as you can in a coarse cloth, lay a heavy weight upon it, hang it to dry in the smoke from wood, reversing it every day, boil in spring water, press it while hot and grate or rice it to fancy. 131.—EUMr STEAK STEWED. Cut a steak about an inch thick with a good bit of fat, fry it over a brisk fire, place it in a stewpan with the gravy, a little good stock, a little port wine, and some chopped mushrooms, stew gently; when tender put into it some good brown sauce, shake it gently about; dish it, and put scraped or grated horseradish on the top; if for oysters or mushrooms, see those sauces; season with salt, cayenne pepper, and sugar. 132.—RUMP STEAK PLAIN BROILED. Cut your steak not so thick as for the former; have ready a good clear fire, put your gridiron to get quite hot, then put on the steak at full length, frequently stirring it with your steak tongs, a few minutes according to taste will do it, place it on your dish, put a good slice of butter rubbed all over it, and now pepper and salt it. Horse-radish on the top of it, and frequently sauces. UBEF. 71, 133. BEEK BTKAK8 BROILED. Be particular that the fire is clear; it is of no use to attempt to broil a steak over a dull, smoky, or flaring fire ; see that the gridiron is clean, and the bars rubbed with suet preparatory to laying on the steak; when they are browned turn them, do not be afraid of doing this often, as this is the best plan to preserve the gravy. When they are done rub them over with a piece of fresh butter, pepper and salt them, sprinkle the shalot or onion cut very small, and send them to table with oyster sauce, a dish of nicely cooked greens, and well boiled potatoes, they are frequently and pleasantly garnished with scraped horseradish. 134. BEEF STEAKS ROLLED AND BOASTED. Cut handsome steaks from the rump, and if not sufficiently tender let them be well beaten, make a rich stuffing of equal parts of ham and veal well peppered, stew it for a short time, and pound it in a mortar with bread steeped in milk, a lump of butter, and the yolk of two or three eggs; spread this forcemeat over the steaks, roll them up and tie them tightly, roast them before a clear fire. They will occupy an hour and twenty minutes to an hour and a half roasting; baste well with butter while roasting, and serve with brown gravy. 135. STEWED BEEF STEAKS. Stew the steaks in three parts of a pint of water, to which has been added a bunch of sweet herbs, two blades of mace, an onion stuck with cloves—say three, an anchovy, and a lump of butter soaked in flour, pour over a glass of sherry or Madeira. Stew with the pan covered down, until the steaks are tender, but not too much so; then place them in a fryingpan with enough of fresh butter, hissing hot, to cover them, fry them brown, pour off the fat, and in its place pour into the pan the gravy in which the steaks were stewed; when the gravy is thoroughly heated, and is of a rich consistency, place the steaks in a hot dish, pour the sauce over them. The steaks should be large, the finest from the rump, and have a due proportion of fat with them. 136.—1IEEF STEAKS A LA FRANCHISE. Take a fine steak and dip it into cold spring water, let it drain a few minutes, lay it in a dish and pour over it sufficient clarified but- ter hot, and cover it; let it remain twelve hours, then remove the butter, and roll the steak with the rolling-pin a dozen times rather hardly, let it lie in front of a clear fire ten minutes, turning it once or twice, put it into a frying-pan, with water half an inch in depth, and let it fry until it browns. Mince some parsley very fine, chop an eschalot as fine as can be, and season them with cayenne, salt, and a little white pepper, work them with a lump of fresh butter, and when the steak is brown take 72 BEEF. it from the pan, rub it well with the mixture on both sides, and re- turn it to the pan until enough; dish it, thicken the gravy in the pan with a little butter rolled in flour if it requires it, and pour it over the steak and serve. 187. BEEF STEAKS A LA PARIS1ENNE. Cut thin steaks from the finest and tenderest part of the rump, sprinkle pounded salt, a little cayenne, and white pepper combined, over them, lay them in a pan with an ounce of fresh butter, cut in pieces; work half a tea-spoonful of flour with three ounces of fresh butter, as much parsley minced exceedingly fine as would lie on a shilling, roll it, and cut in large dice, lay it in a dish, squeeze the half of a lemon over the butter, and when the steaks are done lay them upon the butter; have ready a quantity of raw peeled potatoes, cut in thin slices, and washed in milk and water ready, fry them in the butter and gravy left by the steak, and lay them round the dish, they will be done when they are a rich brown. 138. PALATES OF BEEF. 'Four white skinned palates, if for a white dish lay them all night in salt and water, wash them well, put them on to scald, take off all the skin, then put them into your stock pot, let them boil several hours until so tender that you can pass a straw through them, then take them up and lay them flat on a large dish separate, placing another on the top of them with a weight to keep them flat: if to be dressed whole turn the sides smooth, spread each with quenelle or forcemeat, roll them up and tie them, it will take six for this dish; steam them for a quarter of an hour, take them up and glaze them well, and take off the string; if for a turban or timbales, cut them out with a plain round cutter, either using two small moulds or one large, proceed with those two as you would for the timbale of macaroni, leaving out the cheese and any other layer, introduce slices of truffles all round, and then palates, then mushrooms until your mould is full, put a layer of quenelle on the top, paper it on the top with buttered paper, steam as other timbales; haricot roots, truffles, mushrooms, tomato, piquant, any of these will do for sauces, or Italienne; glaze the tops when turned out. 139. BEEF PALATES. Take as many as required, let them simmer until they peel, put them in a rich gravy, stew until very tender, season with cayenne, salt, two tea-spoonfuls of mushroom ketchup,—serve. 140. BEEF KIDNEY, ROONON DE BOLUF SUPERBE. FRIED. Remove all the fat and the skin from the kidney, and cut it in slices moderately thin. Mix with a tea-spoonful of salt, grated nut- meg, and cayenne pepper. Sprinkle over them this seasoning, and BEEF. 73 - also parsley, and eschalot chopped very fine. Fry them over a quick fire until brown on both sides, pour into a cup of good gravy a glass of Madeira, and when the slices of the kidney are browned, pour it into the pan gradually; just as it boils throw in a spoonful of lemon juice, with a piece of butter the size of a nut. Have ready a dish, garnished with fried bread cut in dice; pour the whole into it. 141. BEEF KIDNEYS. STEWED. Procure a couple of very fine beef kidneys, cut them in slices, and lay them in a stewpan; put in two ounces of butter, and cut into very thin slices four large onions; add them, and a sufficiency of pepper and salt, to season well. Stew them about an hour; add a cupful of rich gravy to that extracted from the kidney. Stew five minutes, strain it, and thicken the gravy with flour and butter, give it a boil up. Serve with the gravy in the dish. 142. BEEF CAKE. Choose lean beef, it should also be very tender, if a pound put six ounces of beef suet, mince finely and season with cloves, mace, and salt, in fine powder, put the largest proportion of salt and least of mace, add half the quantity of the latter of cayenne, cut into thin slices a pound of bacon, and lay them all round the inside but not at the bottom of a baking dish, put in the meat pressing it closely down, cover it with the remaining slices of bacon, lay a plate over it face downwards, and upon it something heavy to keep it from shifting. If there be three pounds of beef bake two hours and a half, remove the bacon and serve with a little rich gravy. These cakes may be made of mutton, or veal, or venison. 143.—BF.EF A LA BRAISE. Take two or three ribs of beef, cut away only the fleshy part that is next the chine, and take away all the fat; lard it with pretty good size of landings of bacon seasoned with spices, sweet herbs, parsley, young onions, a small quantity of mushrooms and truffles shred very small; having larded the beef tie it into a neat form with packthread and put it into a stewpan, having previously lined the bottom of the stewpan with thin slices of fat bacon, and over them lay slices of lean beef about an inch thick beaten well and seasoned with spice, sweet herbs, onion, lemon peel, bay leaves, salt, and pepper, then put in your beef, laying the fleshy side downwards, that it may take the better relish of the seasoning, then season the upper part as you did the lower, and lay over it slices of beef, and over them slices of bacon as you did at the bottom, then cover the stewpan and close it well all round the edge of the cover with paste, then put fire on the cover of your stewpan as well as under; when the beef is sufficiently stewed take it up and let it drain a little, then lay it on a dish and pour the following ragout upon it. » 74 BEEF. While your beef is stewing make a ragout as follows :—take veal sweatbre ads, livers of capons, mushrooms, truffles, tops of asparagus, aud bottoms of artichokes, toss these up with some melted bacon, moisten it with good gravy, and thicken it with cull is made of veal, and gammon, and bacon. J 144. BEEF HEART,* Wash it very carefully, stuff it the same as you would a hare, roast or bake it, and serve with a rich gravy and currant jelly sauce, hash with the same and port wine. 145.—BEEF HEART BOASTED. Wash thoroughly, stuff with forcemeat, send it to table as hot as it is possible with currant jelly sauce, it will take about forty minutes roasting, but this depends upon the fire. 146. BEEF HEART. Let it be thoroughly well cooked, and the skin removed. Wipe it daily with a clean cloth, stuff it with veal stuffing; roast two hours and a quarter. Make a brown gravy, as for hare; and serve with the gravy and. currant jelly. The most pleasant way to the palate of dressing this dish, is to roast the heart for rather less than two hours, let it get cold, cut it in pieces, and jug it the same as hare. 147.—BEEF COLLOPS. Any part of beef which is tender will serve to make collops; cut the beef into pieces about three inches long, beat them flat, dredge them with flour, fry them in butter, lay them in a stewpan, cover them with brown gravy, put in half an eschalot minced fine, a lump of butter rolled in flour, to thicken with a little pepper and salt; stew- without suffering it to boil; serve with pickles, or squeeze in half a lemon, according to taste; serve in a tureen, and serve hot. 148. BEEF COLLOPS. MINCED AU NATUREL. Take of the tenderest part of lean beef, from twelve to sixteen ounces. the quantity in fact must be regulated by the purpose for which it is dressed, whether it be to place before an invalid, or to swell the number of dishes introduced, without adding much to the expense. Mince the beef, season with pepper and salt, put it into a stewpan to draw the gravy, let it simmer slowly, and keep it stirring, otherwise it will lump; let it stew very slowly ten minutes, add a little gravy, stew five minutes more, and serve while very hot. 149.—SAVOURY BEEF COLLOPSj, COMMON RECEIPT. Put into a stewpan, two ounces of butter kneaded in three parts of a table-spoonful of flour, when it melts add a table-spoonful of BEEF. 75 rich brown gravy, chop some parsley very fine, and also a few sweet herbs, sprinkle them into the melting butter as it browns; when it is of a good gold colour, add your minced beef, and keep it stirring until it is thoroughly heated through, add a tea-cupful of gravy, and stew eight minutes, then add a little ketchup, or a little Chili vinegar, and serve very hot. The favourite method in Scotland is to mince the beef, season it highly, put it undressed into jars, cover the top with clarified butter, to cook it they put into the pan the butter which covered it, throw in some onions in thin slices, and fry them; when browning add half a cupful of water, and then the minced meat: stew a few minutes, and serve. 150.—BEEF A LA MODE. There are several methods of making this dish; the hash erro neously termed alamode beef, sold at eating-houses, is a very different dish to the true beef a la mode. The following is called the "old Bath" receipt. Take a quantity of the buttock, or the leg of mutton piece, the clod, or where expense is not an object the rump of beef as lean as possible; cut away the fat if there is any, make a mixed powder of cloves, about twenty or thirty, the same quantity of mace, with half an ounce of allspice, savoury, parsley, a handful of thyme, knotted marjoram, and all other sweet herbs chopped very fine; mix them in a glass of vinegar. Take some fat bacon, cut it into slices as long as the beef is thick, and about a quarter of an inch in thickness, roll it well in the powdered spice and herbs, make incisions of the requisite depth, and insert the bacon in the beef, which may be rubbed well over with what remains of the powdered spice, &c., in the vinegar; then dredge flour over the beef, place it in a baking dish with a lump of butter rolled in flour, with a pint of water ; bake it in the oven, strain the gravy, and serve with pickles on the top; if after being larded it should, instead of being baked, be put into the stewpau, add to it as much water as will cover it, four onions chopped fine, half a dozen cloves of garlic, as many bay leaves, a few cham- pignons, half a pint of ale, as much port wine, add white pepper, cayenne pepper, and salt, a tea-spoonful of pyroligneous acid; strew three parts of a pint of fine bread raspings over it, cover down close and stew six or eight hours, according to the size of the beef; when it has stewed sufficiently, take out the beef, keep it hot over boiling water, strain the gravy, remove the fat, champignons, &C.; boil up again, season to palate, pour the gravy over the beef and send to table. This is sometimes preferred cold, in which case serve it cut in slices, with the gravy which will be a jelly. 151. BEEF A LA MODE. ANOTHER WAY. Take a rump, or piece of beef, bone it, beat it well, and lard it with fat bacon; then put it into a stewpan with some rind of bacon, a calfV 76 BEEF. foot, an onion, a carrot, a bunch of sweet herbs, a bay leaf, thyme, a clove of garlic, some cloves, salt, and pepper; pour over the whole a glass of water, let it stew over a slow fire for six hours at least. A clean cloth should be placed over the stewpan before the lid is put on which must be closed; when it is done strain the gravy through a sieve; clear off the fat and serve. 152. BEEF A LA MODE. ANOTHER WAY. Take some of the round of beef, cut it five or six inches thick, cut some fat bacon into long bits, take an equal quantity of beaten mace, pepper, and nutmeg, with double the quantity of salt if wanted, mix them together, dip the bacon in vinegar, garlic vinegar if agreeable, then into the spice, lard the beef with a larding pin very thick and even; put the meat into a pot just big enough to hold it with a gill of vinegar, two large onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, half a pint of red wine, some lemon peel, cover it down very close, and put a wet cloth round the edge of the pot to prevent the steam evaporating; when it is half done turn it, and cover it up close and do it over it slow fire or a stove; it will take five hours doing, truffles and morels may be added. 153.—ox TAILS. Have them properly jointed by the butcher; it saves time, and experience enables the butcher to do the task more neatly than the cook. They should be separated at each joint, until the end of the tail is approached, and then two or three joints may be the length allowed. Three or four tails may be cooked ; that, however, must be regulated according to the quantity required. We give the propor- tions for three tails. Cover them with water after laying them in the saucepan, clear the scum as it rises, and when it boils put in a little salt, half a tea-spoonful of white pepper, and half that quantity of cayenne, eight or ten cloves stuck in two small onions, two large or four small carrots, and a good sized bunch of parsley. Let it boil very gently, until the meat is tender, they will take three hours; strain the gravy from the meat, thicken it, and serve up with the tails in a tureen. When the gravy has been thickened, the vegetables may be returned to it or not, according to taste, and it may be sent to table poured over the tails, or in a separate tureen. Ox-tails are broiled, but as in any mode of dressing them they require much cooking, they must first be stewed. They are not divided in this mode of dressing, but boiled for a quarter of an hour whole, stewed in sufficient gravy to cover them until tender, then coated with yolk of egg, or fresh butter powdered with bread crumbs, and broiled upon a gridiron, served immediately they are browned. 154. HARICOT OF OX TAILS. Joint the tails and choose those of a size; in the country you must use the large end and smaller in the dish. Blanch them for a few BEEF. 77 minutes, take them up, return them in a clean stewpan, cover them with second stock, add a small faggot of sweet herbs, and a slice of lean ham, a blade of mace, four cloves; when tender take them up and thicken the liquor, put a little brown sauce to it, have ready cut in a shape carrots, turnips, twelve button onions, the middle of a head of celery cut one inch long, a green gherkin or cucumber, cut as for cutlet sauce six mushrooms; after you have prepared the vegetables add them to your sauce which you have previously passed through a tammy; boil all for ten minutes, season with sugar, and salt, and pepper; glaze the tails. . 155.—BRISKET OF BEEF STEWED. Take any quantity of brisket of beef required, say eight or ten pounds, cover it with water, stew till tender, bone the beef and skim off the fat, strain the gravy, add a glass of port wine, flavour with spices tied in a bag. Have boiled vegetables ready; cut them into squares, and garnish the beef from the gravy round it, and serve. 156. RUMP OF BEEF F.N MATELOTTE. Cut the beef in pieces, half boil them, put them into some beef broth or thin stock unseasoned and boil, when half done stir some butter and flour moistened with the broth in a stewpan over the fire until brown, put the beef into the pan with a dozen onions previously parboiled, a glass of sherry, a bay leaf, a bunch of sweet herbs, parsley, and pepper, and salt; stew till the beef and onions are quite done, skim clean, cut an anchovy small, put it with capers into the sauce, put the beef in the centre of the dish; garnish with the onions round it. 157. TO FR1CASEE COLD ROAST BEEF. Cut the beef into slices, which should be very thin, put it with some strong broth into a stew-pan, add parsley chopped small, an onion scored, and a piece of butter, simmer fifteen minutes, add a glass of port wine, a tea-spoonful of pyroligneous acid, and the yolk of a couple of eggs; mix well, stew quickly, pot the dish, rub it with a shalot, pour fricasee into it, and serve. 158.—BEEF FRICANDEAU. Take a piece of beef as lean as you can obtain it, lard it well over on one side with pieces of bacon. Place in a stew-pan an eschalot, a bunch of sweet herbs, a faggot of parsley, a little cloves, three parts of a quart of good broth, one glass of sherry, and pepper and salt to palate. A clove of garlic may be added to the eschalot if it is not found of sufficient strength to flavour it without. Put on the meat, and stew until tender, take out the gravy, keep the meat covered down close, skim and strain the sauce, boil it until reduced to a glaze. Glaze the beef with it on the side larded, and serve with sauce piquante, or sauce sorrel. 78 BEEF. 159.—STEW OF OX-CHEEK. Clean and wash it well, cut off the fleshiest pails, and break the bones into an available size, put it into a stewkettle with enough water to cover it, season with salt; the pepper should be whole, and with a few cloves, and a blade of mace tied in a bag made of muslin, put it into the water, with three onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, half a dozen carrots sliced, a head of celery sliced, and four or five turnips of tolerable size; stew from five to seven hours; before serving the meat may be removed, and the gravy thickened and browned; serve hot, with the meat in the gravy. Shin of beef is very excellent, dressed in this fashion. 180 BEEF AND SAUER KRAUT. GERMAN RECEIPT. Put about eight pounds of beef into cold water. When it comes to a boil, let it boil very fast for eight or ten minutes, not longer. Take it out and lay it in a stewpau, cover it completely over with sauer kraut. Pour in a pint of thin gravy. Stew four hours, and serve with the gravy in a tureen or deep dish. 161. ANOTHER WAY. Prepare the beef for the stewpan as above, but instead of laying the beef immediately in the stewpan, cut it into slices, not large, and then put it in. Cover the pieces as before with sauer kraut, and add three parts of a quart of weak broth, with two small onions in slices. Boil, season with salt and pepper. Parboil the hearts of two summer cabbages, and press all the water from them; halve them, and lay the flat sides upon the beef, after it has been simmering an hour and twenty minutes. At the end of three quarters of an hour, add a sliced onion or two, a couple of slices of lean ham cut in fingers, and sprinkle with mixed spice. A vinegar sauce is eaten with this dish. It is esteemed highly in the northern parts of Germany. 162.—BEEF 8AUNDEKS. Wash, and put in a saucepan two pounds of potatoes; cover them well with water, and throw in a handful of salt; let them just reach the toil, but never actually boil, until they are done. Peel them, mash them with milk and two ounces of butter, season with cayenne pepper and salt, and lay in a smooth paste a sufficiency to cover the bottom of a dish: upon this lay slices cut a moderate thickness of rare beef very close together. Pour two table-spoonfuls of the richest gravy you have over it, and cover with a crust of potatoes, mashed; bake in it slow oven for five-and-forty minutes. The meat may be minced for this dish, and indeed is usually cooked so, for the sake of time ; it occupies half an hour only, or less, in cooking. It can be made of mutton as well as beef, or of pork or beef sausage meat. BEEF. 79 163. BOUIIXI BEEF. This receipt is made with the brisket of beef. Take the thickest, and put it into an iron tinned kettle, and cover with water; it is better for being rolled and tied. Put in turnips cut small, carrots, celery, onions, and spice. Boil fast for an hour and three quarters, stew for six hours, adding water as it evaporates. When it has ■tewed five hours, take about two quarts of the soup, or as much as your tureen.will comfortably hold, add to it turnips and carrots cut in dice. The ribs of beef may be cooked much in the same fashion. 164. BEEF BOUILLI. About ten pounds for a flank or corner dish of the tender end or middle of brisket of beef, tie it across with a string, place it in your second stock pot, keep it covered and boiled for two or three hours; take it up, untie it, and take out the bones; put it on a clean dish with one over it with some weight on the top until cold, then tie it neatly up again, after having trimmed it to a nice square or long shape, then return it to your stewpan until done, take it up and glaze it several times; if ornaments are liked, stick silver skewers ornamented with truffles, capsicums, green gherkins, sweetbreads or cock's combs: if for fish, cray fish or prawns. 165. A BEEF STEW. Take two or three pounds of the rump of beef, cut away all the fat and skin, and cut it into pieces about two or three inches square, put it into a stewpan, and pour on to it a quart of broth, let it boil, sprinkle in a little salt and pepper to taste; when it has boiled very gently, or simmered two hours, shred finely a large lemon, add it to the gravy, and in twenty minutes pour in a flavouring composed of two table- spoonfuls of Harvey's sauce, the juice of the lemon the rind of which has been sliced into the gravy, a spoonful of flour, and a little ketchup, add at pleasure two glasses of Madeira, or one of sherry, or port, a quarter of an hour after the flavouring, and serve. 106.—BEEF HASHED. Take the bones of the joint to be hashed, and break them small, stew them in very little water, with a bunch of sweet herbs, and a few onions; roll a lump of butter in flour, brown it in a stewpan, pour the gravy to it, and add the meat to be hashed, cut two small onions in thin slices, a carrot also, and a little parsley shred finely; stew gently until the meat is hot through, and serve. 167.—BEEF TONGUE. TO CURE.Throw a handful of salt over the tongue, seeing that it is sprinkled on both sides, let it remain to drain until the following day, make a pickle of a table-spoonful of common salt, half that quantity of salt- 80 BEEF. petre, and the same quantity of coarse sugar as of salt; rub this mixture well into the tongue, do so every day for a week; it will then be found necessary to add more salt, a table-spoonful will suffice, in four more days the tongue will be cured sufficiently. Some persons do not rub the pickle into the tongue, but let it absorb it merely turning it daily, this method will be found to occupy a month or five weeks before it will be cured. When the tongue is to be dried affix a paper to it with a date; smoke over a wood fire four days unless wrapped in paper, and then as many weeks will be required. 108.—TO DRESS BEEF TONGUES. To dress them, boil the tongue tender, it will take five hours; always dress them as they come out of the pickle, unless they have been very long there, then they may be soaked three or four hours in cold water, or if they have been smoked, and hung long, they should be softened by lying in water five or six hours, they should be brought to a boil gently, and then simmer until tender; when they have been on the fire about two hours, and the scum removed as it rises, throw in a bunch of sweet herbs of a tolerable size, it will improve the flavour of the tongue. 169. TONGUE LARDED. This when well cooked is especially pleasant to some palates. Take a tongue which has been pickled, a small one is the best, cut off the root, and put it into a pan; cover it with water, and let it boil five-and-twenty or thirty minutes. Take it out, and then dip it in scalding water to blanch, and remove the skin. Take a piece of fat bacon, cut it into strips for larding. Make a seasoning of pounded sweet herbs, eschalot, mace, and a little cayenne pepper mixed with white pepper and salt; sprinkle the bacon strips with it, and leaving a line for division down the centre of the tongue. Lard it all over. Braise the tongue, and then glaze; separate it in the space left, but leave it attached at either end, so that when laid open on the dish it is not entirely divided in two. Have ready some brown sauce, flavoured with minced capers, sliced pickled gherkins, the juice of half a lemon, and half a small tea- spoonful of cayenne pepper. Pour it when ready into a dish; lay the tongue upon it, and serve as hot as possible. 170. TO STEW A TONGUE. Cut away the root of the tongue, but leave the fat underneath, and salt as above for seven days. Put it into a saucepan, and boil gently until tender, and it will peel easily. Put it into a stewpan, cover it with a rich gravy, into which put a spoonful of mushroom ketchup, one of soy, and half a spoonful of cayenne pepper. Stew in the gravy morels, truffles, and mushrooms, and serve with them in the gravy. BEEF. 81 171. BEEF BRAINS FRIED. Let your brains be properly marinaded, then leave them to drain'; make a preparation with warm water, a little butter, and salt, some flour, and a spoonful of oil, and the whites of eggs whipped to snow, mix altogether till like batter, dip your brains into this batter, and then fry them a nice brown colour, when fried let them drain on a dry cloth, garnish with fried parsley. 172.—BEEF BRAINS A LA SAUCE PIQCANTE. Cook your brains in a marinade, drain them, put them on a dish, and pour a sauce piquante all over them. 173.—BUBBLE AND SQUEAK. Sprinkle some slices of cold boiled beef with pepper, fry them with a bit of butter of a light brown; boil a cabbage, squeeze it quite dry and chop it small, take the beef out of the frying-pan and lay the cabbage in it, sprinkle a little salt and pepper over it, keep the pan moving over the fire for a few minutes, lay the cabbage in the middle of the dish and the beef around it. 174. BEEF SAUSAGES.To three pounds of beef, very lean, put one pound and a half of suet, and chop very finely; season with sage in powder, allspice, pepper, and salt, have skins thoroughly cleaned, and force the meat into them. 175.—BEEF BROTH. Take a leg of beef, wash it clean, crack the bone in two or three parts, put it into a pot with a gallon of water, skim it well, then put two or three blades of mace in a little bundle of parsley, and a crust of bread, let it boil till the beef is quite tender, toast some bread, cut it into dice, put them into a tureen, lay in the meat, and pour the soup over it. 176.—MARROW BONES. They must be sawn into convenient sizes; cover the ends with a little dough made of flour and water, and tie them in a floured cloth, boil them an hour and a half, serve on a napkin with dry toast. 177. BAKED MARROW BONES. The bones should be prepared as above and laid in a deep dish, then put into an oven and bake gently for two hours. They are sometimes cooked in batter, but if so, the marrow should be cleared from the bones and put in buttered cases made of clean foolscap paper; let them lie in the batter and serve with them in it; when the batter is baked the marrow will be also done. G 42 BEEF. 178.—TRirE. Take two pounds of fresh tripe, cleaned and dressed by the tripe- dresser, cut away the coarsest fat, and boil it in equal parts of milk and water, twenty minutes to half an hour will be long enough. Boil in the same water which boils the tripe four large onions ; the onions should be put on the fire at least half an hour before the tripe is put in the stewpan, and then made into a rich onion sauce, which serve with the tripe. Tripe is cleaned, dried, cut into pieces, and fried in batter, and served with melted butter. Tripe is cut into slices; three eggs are beaten up with minced parsley, sweet herbs, onions chopped exceedingly fine, parsley, and mushrooms. The tripe is dipped into this mixture, and fried in boiling lard. Tripe may be cut into collops, covered with a mixture of parsley, onions, and mushrooms, minced exceedingly fine, and fried in clari- fied or fresh butter. Serve mushroom sauce with it. Tripe can be stewed in gravy in which put parsley, onions, and mushrooms, or in lieu of the latter, mushroom ketchup. Thicken the gravy with flour and butter. When the tripe is tender, it will be done. A lemon may be sent to table with it. 179.—CULLIS FOR ALL SORTS OF BUTCHER*** MEAT. You must take meat according to the number of guests, if ten or twelve a leg of veal and a ham will be necessary, with all the fat, skin, and outside cut off, cut the leg of veal into pieces of about three or four inches thick each way, place them in a stewpan, and then the slices of ham, two carrots, and an onion cut in two, cover it close, let it stew gently at first, and as it begins to brown, take off the cover and turn it to colour on all sides the same, but take care not to burn the meat; when it has a pretty brown colour, moisten your cullis with broth made of beef or other meat, season the cullis with a little sweet basil, some cloves, and a little garlic, pare a lemon, cut it in slices and put it into the cullis with some mushrooms, put into a stewpan a good lump of butter, and set it over a slow fire, put into it two or three handful* of flour, stir it with a wooden ladle, and let it take a colour, if the cullis be pretty brown you must put in some flour, the flour being brown with the cullis, pour it gently into the cullis keeping it stirring with a wooden ladle, then let the cullis stew softly and skim off all the fat, put in two glasses of champagne or other white wine, but take care to keep the cullis very thin, so that you may take the fat well off and clarify it, you must clarify it by putting it into a stove that draws well, cover it close and let it boil without uncovering until it boils over, then uncover and take off the fat that is round the stewpan, then wipe it off the cover also and cover it again; when the cullis is done take out the meat and strain the cullis through a silken strainer; this cullis is for all sorts of ragouts, fowls, pies, and tureens. BEEF. 83 180. POTTED BEEF. To a pound of common salt, put a quarter of an ounce of salt- petre, and two ounces of coarse sugar. Hub three pounds of lean beef with this, and let it remain in the brine fifty hours. Drain and dry it, pepper it well with black pepper, put it into a pan; cut half a pound of butter in slices, and lay round it; lay a paste crust over it, and bake it very slowly four hours and a half. Let it get cold, and then cut off the meat, being careful to separate the stringy pieces from it: pound it in a mortar, working up with it four ounces of fresh butter, and some of the gravy from the meat when baked, seasoned with ground allspice, a little mace, and pepper. When the meat has been combined with the butter and gravy, until it is worked into an even paste, put it into jars, and cover with clarified butter. If it is purposed to keep it long, cover it with bladder skin. The beef may be ported without in the first instance being salted, but if it is done it should have salt worked up with it, and be soon eaten after potting. Some persons make their potted beef of meat that has been previously cooked, but the above will be found to be the best receipt. 181.—COW-HEEL. Having been thoroughly washed, scalded, and cleaned, cut them into pieces about two inches long, and one wide; dip them into yolk of egg, cover them with fine bread crumbs mixed with parsley minced, cayenne pepper, and salt: and fry them in boiling butter. 182. ANOTHER WAY.Having cleaned the feet, bone them, boil them, and stew them in a rich brown gravy; serve them with Indian pickle. Or, if plainly cooked, boil until enough; then serve them on a napkin, with melted butter, flavoured with a spoonful of vinegar, and one of made mustard. Lemon pickle may be served with them. G 2 84 VEAL. CHAPTER IV. VEAL. The failing of this meat is its tendency to turn; should it show any symptoms of doing this, and in an earlier part of the work I have explained how it may be detected, put it into scalding water and let it boil for seven or eight minutes, with some pieces of charcoal affixed, plunge it into cold water immediately after taking it out of the hot, and put it into the coolest place you have at command ; the skirt from the breast, and the pipe from the loin should always be removed in hot weather. 183.—VEAL THE FILLET. The fillet derives much of its pleasant flavour from being stuffed. Veal, in itself, being nearly tasteless, the stuffing should be placed in the hollow place from whence the bone is extracted, and the joint should be roasted a beautiful brown; it should be roasted gradually, as the meat being solid will require to be thoroughly done through without burning the outside; like pork, it is sufficiently indigestible without being sent to table and eaten half cooked; a dish of boiled bacon or ham should accompany it to table, a lemon also. In roasting veal, care must be taken that it is not at first placed too near the fire; the fat of a loin, one of the most delicate joints of veal, should be covered with greased paper, a fillet also, should have on the caul until nearly enough: the shoulder should be thoroughly boiled, when nearly done dredge with flour, and produce a fine froth. 184. FILLET OF VEAL, BOILED. Bind it round with tape, put it in a floured cloth and in cold water, boil very gently two hours and a half, or if simmered, which is per- haps the better way, four hours will be taken; it may be sent to table in bechamel or with oyster sauce. Care should be taken to keep it as white as possible. 185.—BREAST OF VEAL STEWED. Put it into the stew-pan with some white stock, not much, add a glass of sherry, a few mushrooms, a bunch of sweet herbs, three VEAL. 85 onions, pepper, and salt. Stew till tender, strain the gravy, and send to table garnished with force-meat balls. 186.—BREAST OF VEAL, BOILED. Put it into plenty of cold water, let it come to a boil, keep the scum cleared as often as it rises, when it boils add a bunch of parsley, a few blades of mace, a small bunch of sweet herbs, twenty or thirty white peppers, -stew an hour and a quarter, send to table with a nice piece of bacon, and parsley and butter. 187. BREAST OF VEAL RAGOUT. Divide the breast lengthways in two, cut each piece into portions of a reasonable size, put them into a pan with boiling butter, fry a clear brown, lay the pieces in a stewpan with sufficient veal broth to cover them, throw in a small faggot of sweet herbs and parsley, two onions, one large blade of mace, half a dessert spoonful of allspice, and the peel of a lemon, season with pepper and salt, cover close, and stew an hour and a half, or longer if the meat requires it; take it off and strain the gravy, remove the fat, keep the veal closely covered, and in a small stewpan put a little butter and flour, pour in the strained gravy gradually, let it come to a boil, remove any scum that may rise, pour in a glass of sherry or Madeira, two table-spoon- fuls of Harvey's sauce or mushroom ketchup, and squeeze in the juice of half a lemon; boil it up, place the veal in a deep hot dish, pour the gravy over it, and serve. 188. BREAST OF VEAL FORCED. After taking out the tendons and all the rib bones, flatten and trim the veal, spread it all over with forcemeat, sprinkle over it, if you have got it, a little chopped truffle or mushrooms, sprinkle a little pepper and salt over it, then roll it tightly up and tie it, then pat it into a cloth and stew it for several hours, take it up, and take off the cloth and strings; dry it and glaze it, put some good sauce. 189. SHOULDER OF VEAL. Remove the knuckle and roast what remains, as the fillet; it may or may not be stuffed at pleasure; if not stuffed, serve with oyster or mushroom sauce; if stuffed, with melted butter. 190. SHOULDER OF VEAL, BONED AND STEWED. Bone the shoulder and lay in the orifice a veal forcemeat, roll and bind the shoulder, roast it an hour, then put it into a stewpan with good white or brown gravy and stew four or five hours, regulate the time to the size of the joint, take up the meat, strain the gravy to clear it of fat, and serve with forcemeat balls. 86 VEAL. 191. SHOULDER OF VEAL A LA PIEDMONTESE. Strip the skin off the shoulder, leaving it attached at one end; now lard the meat with fat bacon or ham, add a seasoning of sweet herbs, mace, parsley, lemon-peel chopped fine, pepper, and salt; replace the skin, place it in a stew-pan with gravy, and stew till tender; then chop spinach fine, to which add a table-spoonful of vinegar, chop a lettuce with it, also some onions, parsley, and mush- rooms, stew them in butter; add to them when tender some of the gravy, bits of ham, and some sweetbreads, stew all together for a short time, lift up the skin of the shoulder, and place the herbs over and under, return the skin as before, pour melted butter over it, add crumbs of bread, brown it in the oven, and serve hot with gravy in the dish. 192. LOIN OF VEAL, STEWED. The chump end is the part to stew. Pot it well floured into a stewpan with butter; after the butter has been browned over the fire, brown it, and when a good colour pour in enough veal broth to half cover it, put in two carrots cut in pieces, an onion, a little parsley, and a small bunch of sweet herbs, stew it two hours and a half, tarn it when half done, when enough, take out the meat, thicken the broth, season it, and pour over the veal. 193. — LOIN OF VEAL. Divide the loin, roast the kidney, and place under the fat a toast, and serve swimming in melted butter. The chump end must be stuffed with the same stuffing as the fillet, and served with the same sauce; those who object to putting the stuffing in the joint, may send it to table with balls of stuffing in the dish. 104.—LOIN OF VEAL, BOILED. Take a loin about eight pounds, skewer down the flap without dis- turbing the kidney, put the loin into a kettle with enough cold water to cover it, let it come gradually to a boil (it cannot boil too slowly), continue for two hours and a quarter, but it must boil; remove the scum as it rises, send it to table in bechamel, or with parsley ancT melted butter. 195. KNUCKLE OF VEAL. Get a knuckle of a leg of veal, saw it in three parts, but not to separate it, scald it, and put it for a few minutes in cold water, then place it in a stewpan with some good second stock, an onion or two, a faggot of herbs, a few sprigs of parsley, a carrot, a turnip, and a head of celery, a blade of mace, a slice of raw ham, fat and lean ; stew it for several hours, until the gristle is soft, take out the veal, cover it over to keep it white; strain the liquor, wash a pound of rice and boil it in this liquor, add half a pint of cream or milk, when the rice is done, put your veal again into it to make hot; dish your veal carefully, and season the rice with pepper and salt, and VEAL. 67 pour over the veal; if with parsley and butter instead of water, use the stock from it, and chop tine some boiled parsley and mix into it. 196. KNUCKLE OF VEAL, BOILED. Put sufficient water over it to cover it, let it boil gently, and when it reaches a boil as much salt as would fill a dessert-spoon may be thrown in, keep it well skimmed, and boil until tender, serve with parsley and butter, and a salted cheek. Allow twenty minutes to each pound. Three quarters of a pound of rice may be boiled with it, or green peas, or cucumbers; turnips and small spring onions may be put in, allowing them so much time from the cooking of the veal as they will require. 197.—KNUCKLE OF VEAL, STEWED. Place your knuckle of veal in a stewpan, if the knuckle is a very large one it may be divided into two or three pieces for the sake of convenience, put in the pan with it a few blades of mace, a little thyme, an onion, some whole pepper, a burnt crust of bread, and cover with from three to four pints of water, cover down close, and boil; when it has boiled place it by the side of the fire and let it simmer for at least two hours, take it up, keep it hot while you strain its liquor, then pour the gravy over it, and send it to table with a lemon garnish. 198. ANOTHER WAT. Let the knuckle boil slowly in sufficient water till it is tender, make a sauce of butter and flour, with parsley in it chopped fine, slice a lemon and garnish the dish with it. 199. NECK OF VEAL May be boiled or roasted—the latter only if it be the best end, and sent to table garnished as in the above engraving—it may be broiled in chops, but is best in a pie; it may be, however, larded and stewed as follows:— 200. NECK OF VEAL STEWED. Lard' it with square pieces of ham or bacon which has been pre- viously rubbed in a preparation of shalots, spices, pepper, and salt; place it in the stewpan with about three pints of white stock, add a bay or laurel leaf, and a couple of onions; add a dessert-spoonful of brandy or whiskey, the latter if brandy is not at hand, stew till tender, dish the meat, strain the gravy, pour over the joint, and serve. 88 VEAL. 201.—NECK OF VEAL—BRAISED. This is done much in the same manner as the neck of veal stewed; it is larded with bacon rolled in chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and nutmeg, placed with the scrag in a tosser, in which place lean bacon, celery, carrots, one onion, a glass of sherry or Madeira, with sufficient water to cover it all, stew over a quick fire until it is sufficiently ten- der, remove the veal and strain the gravy, place the veal in a stewpan in which some butter and flour has been browned, let the bones be uppermost, when the veal is nicely coloured it is enough, boil as much of the liquor as may be required, skim it clean, squeeze a lemon into it, pour it over the meat, and serve. 202. VEAL CUTLETS. The cutlets should be cut as handsomely as possible, and about three quarters of an inch in thickness, they should before cooking be well beaten with the blade of a chopper, if a proper beater be not at hand, they should then be fried a light brown and sent up to table, garnished with parsley and rolls of thin sliced, nicely fried bacon; they are with advantage coated previously to cooking with the yolk of an egg, and dredged with bread crumbs. 208.—ANOTHER WAY. Procure your cutlets cut as above, coat them with the yolk of eggs well beaten, strew over them bread crumbs powdered, sweet herbs, and grated lemon peel and nutmeg, put some fresh butter in the pan, and when boiling put in your cutlets; now make some good gravy; when the cutlets are cooked take them out and keep them before the fire to keep hot, dredge into the pan a little flour, put in a piece of batter, pour a little white stock, squeeze in juice of lemon to taste, season with pepper and salt, add mushroom-ketchup, boil quickly until a light brown, pour it over the cutlets, and serve, the cutlets being laid in a circle round the dish, and the gravy in the centre. 204. VEAL CUTLET8 CURRIED. The cutlets may be prepared as for collops by cutting them into shape, dipping them into the yolk of eggs, and seasoning them with fine bread crumbs, about four table-spoonfuls, two spoonfuls of curry-powder, and one of salt; fry them in fresh butter; serve with curry sauce, which may be made with equal parts of curry powder, flour, and butter, worked well together into a paste; put it into the pan from which the cutlets have been removed, moisten with a cup- ful of water in which cayenne and salt have been stirred; let it thicken and serve very hot. 205. VEAL CUTLETS CRUMBED OR PLAIN. If you have not got the leg of veal or the cutlet piece I before named, get a thick slice of veal and cut fourteen good sized cutlets. VEAL. 89 not too thin, flatten each, and trim them a good shape, wet your beater in cold water to keep the veal from sticking, if for plain cutlets flower them well and dry them, then again have ready your saute- pan or fryingpan quite hot, with a good bit of lard or butter, then put in your cutlets, and fry a nice light brown; pepper and salt them; if to be bread crumbed, trim them as before; have ready a little clarified butter, some chopped parsley, and shalot, pepper, and salt, all mixed together with a yolk or two of eggs well mixed, have ready some bread crumbs, put a spoonful of flour amongst them well mixed; dip each cutlet into this omelet, and thin bread crumb them, patting each cutlet with your knife to keep it the proper shape, making the bread crumbs stick to the cutlet; melt some lard in your saute pan, and place your cutlets in it ready to fry a nice brown. 206. VEAI. CUTLETS A LA MAINTENON. Half fry your cutlets, dip them in a seasoning of bread crumbs, parsley, shalots, pepper and salt, and the yolk of an egg, enclose them in clean writing paper, and broil them. 207. COLLOPS OF TEAL. The piece of veal as before named, or if you have it, a leg of veal, if not get a cutlet and cut it into thin pieces, and beat very thin, saute them off, and when all done trim them round the size of a crown piece, pepper and salt them, place them in a stewpan with some cooley sauce if for brown, and if for white bechamel sauce, add some forcemeat balls, some stewed mushrooms, and some whole dressed truf- fles, season with pepper, salt, sugar, and lemon; dish the collops round as you would cutlets, putting the mushrooms, and balls, and truffles in the middle. 208. VEAL COLLOPS May be cooked precisely similar to beef collops, or as No. 200. 209. VEAL CHOPS LARDED. These are from the best end of the neck of veal, three thick chops with a bone to each, trimmed neatly, either larded or not: but you will braise as the former, and glaze them. 210. TENDONS OF VEAL. This is from a breast of veal. Turn up the breast and with a sharp knife cut off the chine bone all along, taking care you do not take any of the gristle with the bone; when you have cut off this bone, place your knife under the gristle and follow it all along until you have raised it up; then cut off the tendons by keeping close to the rib bones; when you have got it out cut twelve or fourteen ten- dons endways, keeping your knife slanting, as each may be the size of a 6mall pattie round, but not too thin; then put them on in cold 90 VEAL. water to scald, then put them in cold again ; prepare a stewpan lined with fat bacon or ham, trim each tendon round, throw the turnip in your braise, cover them with second stock and some of the skimmings, let them stew gently for six or seven hours; be careful in taking them up, and place them separately upon a drying sieve; glaze them two or three times; dish them on a border; they should be so tender that you might suck them through a quill. 911. GALANTINE VEAL. Take a large breast of veal; take off the chine bone, then take out the gristle called tendons, then take out all the rib bones; flatten it well, have ready some good forcemeat or sausage meat; spread it all over with your forcemeat, then make a line of green gherkins, then a line of red capsicums, then a line of fat ham or bacon, then some hard boiled yolks of eggs, then a line of truffles; if you have any boiled calves' feet left from jelly stock, sprinkle it in with pieces of breast of fowl; sprinkle pepper and salt all over it, then roll it up tightly, and likewise do so in a cloth; tie it up light; stew it for two hours or more; take it up and press it flat, let it lie until quite cold; take off the cloth. J t will make excellent cold dishes. 213.—OLIVES OF VEAL—ROTE. Cut some cutlets a moderate thickness from the chump end of the loin of veal, beat them and trim them, eight or a dozen, according to dish; get some slices of ham or bacon, cover the veal with force- meat and with the fat, sprinkle between a little chopped mushrooms, pepper and salt, roll each up, and tie and skewer each, then egg and bread crumb them, bake them in the oven with buttered paper over them, cut the string when done, and before you send them to table, draw the skewer, put asparagus sauce, tomato, or mushroom in the dish. 213. POTTED VEAL. This may be potted as beef, or thus:—pound cold veal in a mortar, work up with it in powder mace, pepper, and salt, shred the leanest part of tongue very finely, or ham is sometimes used; place in a jar or pot a layer of the pounded veal, and upon that a layer of the tongue, and continue alternately until the pot is full, seeing that every layer is well pressed down; pour over the top melted clarified butter. If it is desired, and which is frequently done, to marble the veal, cut the tongue or ham in square dice instead of shredding it, but care must be taken that they do not touch each other or the effect is destroyed. 214.—VEAL HABICOED. Bone the best end of the neck, put it in a stewpan with three pintsof a rich brown gravy—let there be enough to cover it, stew; VEAL. 91 whilst this is proceeding, stew four good sized cucumbers pared and sliced, with a pint of peas, and a couple of cabbage-lettuces cut in quarters, in some broth; when sufficiently stewed, and the veal is nearly done, add them to it, simmer ten minutes, serve with force- meat balls. 215.—MINCED VEAL. Cut the meat intended to be minced, which may be of any cold joint of veal, into very small pieces, shred lemon peel very fine, grated nut- meg, add salt and half a dozen table-spoonfuls of white stock, or if considered preferable, milk; let these simmer slowly without boiling; add butter rubbed in flour when nearly done, and when enough into the dish lay diamonds of toasted bread round the dish, each bearing a thin half slice of lemon, strew fried bread crumbs lightly over the veal, and garnish with thin slices of boiled bacon in rolls. 216.—PAIN DEVEAU. These cakes may be made according to the receipt for beef cakes, P*g*73. 217. A NOIX DE VEAU. You must have a leg of veal from a cow calf, with a good white udder; cut the veal as you did for the frieandeau, but be sure and leave all the udder to it, and do not cut it off, only trim and lard where it is not; tie the udder down to the veal before you scald it, and well cover the udder with fat bacon to keep it particularly while. The white udder you may garnish with a wreath of boiled green French beans, or tarragon, or truffles, but glaze the larding as for the frieandeau; be careful in dishing of it that the fat does not slip fium the lean. 218.—GBENAD1NS OF VEAL Is the last piece left with the veins; after cutting out the fricandenn, the collop which you will see is round, and the cutlet piece, then this solid round piece, which you will cut in half and trim it as you did the former, keeping them either round or oval, lard them and braise them the same as a frieandeau, only less time. 219—OEEXADINS FROM A NECK OF VEAL. About five bones from the best end of the neck; cut out the fillet close to the bones, trim it free from skin and sinews; flatten it with your beater, and trim it nicely. 220. EWINCEB3. Likewise made from dressed meat cut into very small dice; put fried or toasted bread sippets round the dish; a mashed potato or rice rim is the neatest way for both these dishes to be sent to table. 92 VEAL. 221.—FRICANDEAU OF VEAL. Cut this from a large leg of veal, place the bone from you, then the meat will be in front of you, you will see small veins in different directions, put your knife in the one which is largest, following it all round, then take that piece off, lay it upon your dresser, take clean off the skin, keeping the meat rather high in the middle; shave it very smooth, lay the end of your rubber upon it, and with your beater beat it well: take off your cloth and turn it again; keeping it the shape of the veal bone, turn it over flat on a plate, cut off any skin or pipe, then lard it with fat bacon; if for a Jew's family, lard it with smoked beef fat, to be had from their own butcher's, or truffles; when it is larded put on a stewpan of cold water, place your veal in it, keeping the bacon downwards, as otherwise the scum will settle on the top, skim it, and when it simmers put your stewpan under the top, and let it dribble gently upon it for five minutes, then turn it over and take it up; then line a stewpan with fat bacon or ham cut in slices, a carrot, turnip, and onions, a celery, a faggot of sweet herbs, put your fricandeau on a drainer in your stewpan, cover the top with thin slices of bacon, half cover it with some second stock, place it on a slow fire to stew gently, keeping a little all the time on the top; it will take about three hours, it should be as tender as to be helped with a spoon, take it up and glaze it several times. 222. BLANQUETTE DE VEAU. This dish may be dressed according to the receipt Blanquette d'Agneau, page 109. 223. VEAL, CURRIED. Cut the veal to be carried in small pieces—any part of veal, cooked or uncooked, that is palatable, will serve. Put in a stewpan six ounces of fresh butter, add to it half a pint of good white stock and one table-spoonful of curry powder, put to this the veal to be curried, cover down close, simmer for two hours, squeeze a quarter of a lemon into it, and serve with a dish of boiled rice. 224.—calf's head. The same way as No. 195; take out the tongue and cut it in half, and beat up the brains in the parsley and butter, and season with pepper and salt. 225.—IF FOR GRILL. When the head is boiled sufficiently, draw out all the bones, and put it to cool, and then cut it, if not required whole, into square long pieces, egg and bread crumb them as you would outlets, only add some chopped sweet herbs, as well as parsley; put it in your oven to brown. VEAL. 93 226.—calf's head. Let the head be thoroughly cleaned, the brains and tongue be taken out, boil it in a cloth to keep it white (it is as well to soak the head for two or three hours previously to boiling, it helps to improve the colour), wash, soak, and blanch the brains, then boil them, scald souk' sage, chop it fine, add pepper, and salt, and a little milk, mix it with the brains; the tongue, which should be soaked in salt and water for twenty-four hours, should be boiled, peeled, and served on a separate dish. The head should boil until tender, and if intended to be sent to table plainly, should be served as taken up, with melted butter and parsley, if otherwise, when the head is boiled sufficiently tender, take it up, spread over a coat of the yolk of egg well beaten up, powder with bread crumbs, and brown before the fire in a Dutch or American oven. 227.—calf's head—baked. Butter the head, and powder it with a seasoning composed of bread crumbs, very fine, a few sweet herbs and sage, chopped very fine, cayenne, white pepper, and salt. Divide the brains into several pieces, not too small, sprinkle them with bread crumbs, and lay them in the dish with the head. Stick a quantity of small pieces of butter over the head and in the eyes, throw crumbs over all, pour in three parts of the dish full of water, and bake in a fast oven two hours. 228.—calf's head, a la maItre d'h6tel. Cut into very small collops the meat of a calf's head which has been boiled and is cold ; put into a stewpan, well kneaded butter and flour. Simmer them two minutes without colouring them; pour gently in two teacupfuls of veal broth, and let it boil three minutes. Put in two tea-spoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, two dessert-spoonfuls of vinegar, one of Chili ditto, a sprinkle of cayenne, and half a tea- spoonful of pounded white sugar. When it boils put in the meat, over which parsley, minced finely, has been spread. Heat it through by simmering, and serve. 229.—to hash calf's head. If this dish is to be made of the remains of a head already cooked, there is no necessity to re-boil it before it is placed in the stewpan with the other ingredients; if it is made with one as yet uncooked, soak it throughly for two hours, parboil it, cut the meat in slices about an inch thick and three inches long, or smaller, if preferred; brown an onion sliced in flour and butter in a stew or saute pan, add the meat with as much rich gravy as the quantity of meat will per- mit, season with pepper, salt, and cayenne: let it boil, then'skim clean, simmer until the meat is quite tender; a few minutes before you serve throw in parsley in fine shreds and some sweet herbs 94 VEAL. chopped very fine, squeeze a little lemon in, garnish with forcemeat balls or thin slices of broiled ham rolled. If expense is not an object you may add morels and truffles in the browning. 230.—calf's head a la tobttje. Bone a calf's head whole; after being well scalded and cleaned cot off the ears, take out the tongue, cut the gristle and bones from the tongue; prepare a good forcemeat, add some chopped truffles into it, and some mushrooms; lay the head on a clean cloth on the dresser, spread it thickly over with the forcemeat, blanch and take off the skin of the tongue; cut each ear in half longways, place them in different parts on the forcemeat and the tongue in the middle, lap it over keeping it high in the middle, tie the ends, and brace it all over tightly with some loose string, as by doing so it will leave all the marks appearing when glazed like the back shell of turtle, then tie it up in a cloth; it will take some hours to boil; when done, which will be in your second stock, take it up and take off the cloth, put it upon the dish, dry it and glaze it several times; have ready cut from the crumb of bread the form of a turtle's head and the four fins, fry them a nice light brown, and glaze them with the head, placing them to the head on the dish, as to look like a turtle crawling, for the eyes use whites of hard boiled eggs; a sauce you will find among the sauces. 231.—caxves' EAKS. Scald the hair from the ears, and clean them thoroughly; boil them until they are tender in veal gravy, and then blanch them in cold spring water. Serve them in chervil sauce, or in the gravy thickened and seasoned in which they were cooked. A sauce may be made of melted butter, with chervil mashed and put in, strained with the butter through a sieve, and white sauce added. White sauce is sometimes sent up alone with the ears; in that case it should be flavoured with mushroom powder. 232.—calves' ears—stuffed. Prepare as above, and make a stuffing of calves' liver, ham grated, fat bacon, bread steeped in cream, sweet herbs, a little mace, a little salt, and bind it with an egg unbeaten. Stuff the ears with it. The ears should be cut very close to the head, and the gristly part suf- ficiently smooth to enable the ears to stand upright when served. Eub the ears over with egg, and fry them a delicate brown. Serve with brown gravy. 233.—calves' ears—stcffed.—another way. Blanch for an hour three years ; take them up, and cut the ears round at the top, fill them with some prepared farce; slit the ears in TEAL. 95 three or four places so that they may curl down; put them to stew in some good second stock, put a truffle or plover's egg on each top of the farce; glaze them well several times; put mushroom sauce or puree of tomata or truffles, or a piquant sauce, either a white sauce or brown, whichever suits your other dishes. 234.—calves' feet or ears Can be dressed the same way, or fried in butter a la friture with sauce or fried parsley. 235.—calves' feet. They should be -very clean, boil them three hours, or until they are tender, serve them with parsley and butter. 236.—CALVES'FEET STEWED. Wash them clean, divide without entirely separating them, lay them open in the stewpan, and cover them with veal broth, rather more than enough to cover them will be sufficient. Cut into pieces a slice of tender beef, and add to the stew; when it boils throw in a little salt, clear the scum as it rises, throw in a faggot of parsley, a small head of celery, an onion stuck with cloves, three small ones plain, a good sized carrot, two blades of mace, and two dozen pepper- corns. Stew until the flesh separates from the bones, and take it off carefully, strain off half the gravy, or as much as you require, and put in two spoonfuls of Harvey's sauce, thicken it with flour and butter. When it is very hot return the feet. Pour in a glass of Madeira, Bucellas, or pale sherry, and serve. 237. — CALVES' FEET FRICASEED (PIEDS DE VEAU EN FRICA8EE). Soak them three hours, simmer them in equal proportions of milk and water, until they are sufficiently tender to remove the meat from the bones, in good sized pieces. Dip them in yolk of egg, cover with fine bread crumbs, pepper, and salt them; fry a beautiful brown, and serve in white sauce. 238.— CALF'S HEART. Stuffed and roasted precisely as beef heart. 239. CALF'S KIDNEY May be dressed as mutton or beef kidney, or mince it with some of the fat, add cayenne, white pepper, and salt, cover it with bread crumbs and with yolk of egg, make it up into balls and fry in boiling fresh butter, drain them upon a sieve, and serve them upon fried parsley. 96 VEAL. 240. CALVE8' BRAINS. Wash them, remove the skin, and scald them. Dry them well, fry them in butter, served with mushroom sauce. Instead of this, when cleaned and scalded, chop them finely, simmer them with mushrooms, onions, parsley, sage, and white sauce. Season highly, serve with fried parsley and fried sippets. 241.—calf's liver. Lay the liver in vinegar for twelve hours, it will render it firm; dip it in cold spring water and wipe it dry, cut it in even slices, sprinkle sweet herbs, crumbled finely, over it, add pepper and salt, and dredge with flour, fry in boiling lard or butter, the last is preferable; remove the liver when fried a nice brown, pour away a portion of the fat, and pour in a cupful of water with a lump of butter well rolled in flour, in which a spoonful of vinegar and cayenne or lemon juice has been stirred, boil it up, keeping it stirred all the while, and serve the liver up in it; thin slices of hot fried bacon should be sent to table with it. 242—calf's liver and lights. Parboil and mince, put them in a stewpan with a little of the water in which they were boiled, thicken with butter and flour, add salt and pepper, simmer, and serve when heated through. MUTTON. 97 CHAPTER V. MUTTON. This is a delicate and a favourite meat, it is susceptible of many modes of cooking, and should always be served very hot and with very hot plates, except of course in cases where it may be sent to table as a cold dish. It is a meat which requires care in the cooking, which it will amply repay. The roasting parts are the better for hanging some time, especially the haunch or saddle, but not for boiling, as the colour is apt to be injured. One of the most favourite dishes is the 243. HAUNCH OF MUTTON.The haunch should be hung as long as possible without being tainted, it should be washed with vinegar every day while hanging, and dried thoroughly after each washing; if the weather be muggy rubbing with sugar will prevent its turning sour, if warm weather, pepper and ground ginger rubbed over it will keep off the flies. When ready for roasting paper the fat, commence roasting some distance from the fire, baste with milk and water first, and then when the fat begins dripping, change the dish and baste with its own dripping, half an hour previous to its being done remove the paper from the fat, place it closer to the fire, baste well, serve with currant jelly: 244. SADDLE OF MUTTON. This joint like the haunch, gains much of its flavour from hanging for some period, the skin should be taken off, but skewered on again until within rather more than a quarter of an hour of its being done, then let it be taken off, dredge the saddle with flour, baste well. The kidneys may be removed or remain at pleasure, but the fat which is found within the saddle should be removed previous to cooking. 245.—LEG OF MUTTON ROASTED. Like the haunch and saddle should be hung before cooking, should be slowly roasted and served with onion sauce or currant jelly. 246. ROAST LEG OF MUTTON.—ANOTHER RECEIPT. Put the leg into an iron saucepan with enough cold water to cover it, let it come to a boil gently, parboil it by simmering only; have H 98 MUTTON. the spit or jack ready, and take it from the hot water and put it to the fire instantly; it will take from an hour to an hour and a half if large, and less time if small. 2<17. ROAST LEO OK MUTTON BONED AND STUFFED. The principal skill required in accomplishing this dish is the boning, this must be done with a very sharp knife, commence on the underside of the joint, passing the knife under the skin until exactly over the bone, then cut down to it, pass the knife round close to the bone right up to the socket, then remove the large bone of the thickest end of the leg, seeing the meat is clear of the bone; you may then draw out the remaining bones easily. Put in the orifice a highly seasoned forcemeat, fasten the knuckle end tightly over, replace the bone at the base of the joint, and sew it in; roast it in a cradle spit or on a jack, if the latter let the knuckle end be downwards as it is less likely to suffer the forcemeat to drop out. It must be well basted, and should be sent to table with a good gravy. 248. LEO OF MUTTON BOILED Should be first soaked for an hour and a half in salt and water, care being taken that the water be not too salt, then wiped and boiled in a floured cloth, the time necessary for boiling will depend upon the weight; two hours or two hours and a half should be about the time, it should be served with turnips mashed, potatoes, greens. and caper sauce, or brown cucumber, or oyster sauce. 249. LEG OF MUTTON BRAISED. Procure a leg of Welsh mutton or Scotch, they are small, of choice flavour, and best fitted for braising, take off the knuckle neatly, divide it into two or three pieces, trim the leg of all the superfluous edges, and then half roast it, place it with the broken knuckle into a stewpan, add the trimmings with half a dozen slices of rich fat bacon, thyme, knotted marjoram, and other sweet herbs, an onion stuck with cloves, and about half an ounce of butter rolled in flour; stew the whole gently, shaking it occasionally and turn it while stewing; when it is tender take it up, skim the gravy, strain, boil it fast until reduced to a glaze, make a puree or soup of vegetables and place the mutton upon it, cover the mutton with the glaze, and serve. 250. TO SEND A LEO OF MUTTON NEATLY TO TABLE WHICH HAS BEEN CUT FOR A PREVIOUS MEAL. Too much must not have been cut from the joint or it will not answer the purpose. Bone it, cut the meat as a fillet, lay forcemeat inside, roll it, and lay it in a stewpan with sufficient water to cover it; add various kinds of vegetables, onions, turnips, carrots, parsley, &C.,in small quantities; stew two hours, thicken the gravy, serve the fillets with the vegetables round it. MUTTON. 99 251. SHOULDER OF MUTTON Must be well roasted and sent to table with skin a nice brown, it is served with onion sauce. This is the plainest fashion, and for small families the best. 252. LOIN OF MUTTON STEWED. Remove the skin, bone it, and then roll it, put it in a stewpan with a pint and a half of water, two dessert-spoonfuls of pyroligneous acid, a piece of butter, sweet herbs, and an onion or two; when it has stewed nearly four hours strain the gravy, add two spoonfuls of red wine, hot up and serve with jelly sauce. 258. BREAST OF MUTTONMay be stewed in gravy until tender, bone it, score it, season well with cayenne, black pepper, and salt, boil it, and while cooking skim the fat from the gravy in which it has been stewed, slice a few gherkins, and add with a desert spoonful of mushroom ketchup; boil it, and pour over the mutton when dished. 254.—BREAST OF MUTTON CRUMBED OR GRATTN. If one breast of mutton, cut off the chine bone down to the gristle, if you have a stock-pot on put the breast of mutton into it, let it boil until tender, then take it up to cool; have ready as for the crumbed cutlets, adding in the butter and egg a little chopped mushroom; put it all over it with a paste brush, then put it on a dish and put it in the oven to brown, the sauce will be under it when dished. 255. NECK OF MUTTON. This dish is most useful for broth, but may be made a pleasant dish by judicious cooking. To send it to table merely boiled or baked is to disgust the partaker of it. When it is cooked as a single dish,' first boil it slowly until nearly done, then having moistened a quantity of bread crumbs and sweet herbs, chopped very fine, with the yolk of an egg, let the mutton be covered with it, and placed in a Dutch or American oven before the fire, and served when nicely browned. The breast may be cooked in the same manner, or the 256. STEAKS FROM A LOIN OF MUTTON Are done in the same way, only trimming some of the fat off, and cut thick and stew instead of frying them. 257.—MUTTON STEAKS. The steaks are cut from the thick or fillet end of a leg of mutton, and dressed as rump steaks. H 2 100 MUTTON. 258. MUTTON CHOPS BROILED. Cut from the best end of the loin, trim them nicely, removing fat or skin, leaving only enough of the former to make them palatable; let the fire be very clear before placing the chops on the gridiron, turn them frequently, taking care that the fork is not put into tho lean part of the chop; season them with pepper and salt, spread a little fresh butter over each chop when nearly done, and send them to table upon very hot plates. 259. MUTTON CHOPS FRIED. The fat in which the chops are to be fried should be boiling when the chops are put into it. They should be pared of fat and well trimmed before cooking, they should be turned frequently, and when nicely browned they will be done; of course if they are very thick judgment must be exercised respecting the length of time they will occupy in cooking. 200. CHOPS AS BEEF STEAKS. Cut thick from a leg of mutton, and rub each steak with a shalot; broil over a quick fire; rub your dish with shallot ; when on the dish pepper and salt it; send it up quite hot. 261.—mutton 'cutlets. Loin chops make the best cutlets. Take off the vertebrae or thickest end of each bone and about an inch off the top of the bone; put the chops into a stewpan in which has been previously melted a little butter seasoned with salt; stew for a short time, but not until they are brown, as that appearance is accomplished in another manner. Chop some parsley very fine, add a little thyme, mix it with sufficient yolk of egg to coat the chops, which will have been suffered to cool before this addition to them; then powder them with bread crumbs over which a pinch of cayenne pepper has been sprinkled; broil them upon a gridiron over a clear but not a brisk fire, when they are brown dish them; lemon juice may be squeezed over them, or the dish in which they are served may be garnished with thin slices of lemon in halves and quarters. 262.—mutton cutlets.—another way. Not a very fat neck, take off the scrag and the breast bones, leaving the remainder the length you intend the cutlets, then take the chine bone clean off, then the skin and some of the fat; you will now have the mutton free from bones to cut your outlets, you will find you can cut fourteen good cutlets from this trimmed neck without any hack- ing; beat each cutlet with your beater, trim them neatly, be sure to cut out the pacwax, and leave a little fat to each cutlet. If for gratin or bread crumbed, prepare some chopped parsley and shalot, and bread crumbs, put some butter to melt in a stewpan, a little MDTTON. 101 of the parsley and shalot and some yolk of egg, mix it well up together; put your bread crumbs on a sheet of paper, add to it a little salt and pepper; dip each cutlet into melted butter, put down the bread crumbs with your knife, lay them on a buttered saute-pan until wanted to fry. 263. CUTLETS SAUTE. Cut your neck of mutton precisely as for the crumbed outlets, have ready a piece of butter melted in your saute-pan, dip each cutlet both sides in the butter; when required fry them a very light colour, pepper and salt them, when done take them up to drain from the fat, have some good glaze melted, and glaze each cutlet both sides, dish them round with or without a rim of mashed potato. 26-4. CUTLETS IN BUTTER. Trim them as for former cutlets very neatly; dip each cutlet in butter and fry them; dish them upon a napkin with fried parsley; this you may do with a previously dressed neck of mutton. 265. MUTTON CUTLETS MAINTENON. Trim the cutlets as for former cutlets, half fry them, then cover them with tine herbs and bread crumbs, and season with pepper and salt . Lay all to cool; have some fresh parsley to add to the already fried herbs and shalot. When cool, spread the butter and herba thick upon each outlet ; sprinkle them with bread crumbs; wrap them in buttered foolscap paper, and broil them over a slow fire until done. 266. BRAISED CUTLETS. Trim your mutton from the bones as before, then put it whole into a good braise, let it stew gently until tender, put it aside to get cold; when so, cut your cutlets as thick as the former, trim them neatly, make them hot and glaze them. 267. FILLET OF MUTTON. Choose a very large leg, cut from four to five inches in thickness from the large end of the leg, take out the bone, and in its place put a highly savoury forcemeat, flour, and roast it for two hours it will be done; it may.be sent to table with the same accompaniments as a fillet of veal, with melted butter poured over it, or a rich brown gravy and red currant jelly. 268. FILLET OF MUTTON STEWED. Cut and prepare stuff as above, flour and brown in a little butter, and put it into a stewpan with a pint and a half of gravy; with it a small bundle of sweet herbs, two or three small onions, or eight or 102 MUTXOX. ten small button onions peeled, a tea-spoonful of whole black pepper; <*tew slowly three hours and a half. The fillet may be salted, and being half roasted may be stewed with its trimmings. 269.—FILLETS IN MARINADE. Cut from the loins of mutton; prepare some carrots, turnips, onions, and celery, thyme, mace, cloves, and whole pepper, cut up in thin slices; boil a little vinegar and water, put your fillets in a deep dish, pour the vinegar over the roots and mutton when cold, let it lay all night; next day trim neatly and braise them, take them out, and when required glaze them, sauce under them. 270. BLANQUETTE DE MOUTON Is generally made from a former day's saddle of mutton; cutting out the fillets, trimming it neatly, you will be able to cut clearly pieces the size of a shilling, which you will put into some good cooler sauce, you may put two or three gherkins then into it; this is dished better in a tin. 271. HARICOT MUTTON. In this dish proceed as before in removing the bones, but leave more fat on and cut each cutlet much thicker; fry them over a quick fire to brown, twelve will make this dish; put them into a proper sized stewpan with a little good second stock, pepper and salt, a little piece of sugar, cover it over and stew gently over a slow fire, when tender strain off sufficient stock for the sauce, for which roots will be previously prepared, you will see among the sauces. 272. HARICOT MUTTON. ANOTHER WAY.Cut into chops the best end of the neck of mutton, fry them a light brown, in fat made boiling hot before the chops are put into it, some pieces cut from the neck will be the best, dredge them with flour, sprinkle them with pepper and salt, put in a stew- pan three parts of a pint of water, an onion stuck with cloves, pa rsley, a few spring onions, and a bay leaf, stew gently till the meat is nearly done, then add turnips and carrots cut small, fry a large onion cut in slices brown, add it to the gravy, which when just done must be thickened, take out the sweet herbs when the whole has stewed an hour, and serve. 273.—HASH Is made from former dressed mutton, leg or saddle, cut in nice thin shaped pieces, and put into some good brown sauce. 274.—HASHED MUTTON. Cut the cold mutton into slices as uniform in size as possible, flour hem, pepper and salt them, put them into a stewpan with some MUTTON. 103 gravy made of an onion stewed with whole pepper and toasted bread in a pint of water, to which a little walnut ketchup has been added— this gravy should be stewed two hours before using—do not let the hash boil, when it is done add a little thickening of butter, flour and water if required, and serve up with sippets of toasted bread. 275.—HASHED MUTTON. This is a favourite method of disposing of the cold shoulder, especially if it should happen to be underdone; cut it into slices, take the bones (if of a shoulder or leg break them), and put them in a stewpan with the trimmings, cover them with water, put in a faggot of thyme, parsley, whole pepper, allspice, &C., cover down and simmer for three quarters of an hour; while the bones, &c. are stewing, fry an onion brown in a little butter and flour, put it into the stewpan with the gravy, stew gently twenty minutes, strain it, lay in the slices of mutton in the stewpan, pour over them the strained gravy, pour in a spoonful of walnut ketchup or any suitable preferred sauce, season it, simmer until the meat is hot through, dish and serve. A spoonful of curry powder is sometimes added, and is always the palatable addition. 276. IRISH STEW. Cut a neck of mutton as for the haricot; blanch the chops in water, take and put them into another stewpan with four onions cut iu slices, put to it a little of your second stock, let it boil a quarter of an hour; have ready some potatoes pared, put them into the stewpan with the mutton, with salt and pepper; as some like the potatoes whole and some mashed as to thicken the stew, you must boil them accordingly, dish the meat round and the vegetables in the middle. 277.—CHINA CHILO. Mince a pint basin of undressed neck of mutton or leg, and some of the fat; put two onions, a lettuce, a pint of green peas, a tea- spoonful of pepper, four spoonfuls of water, and two or three ounces of clarified butter into a stewpan closely covered; simmer two hours, and serve in the middle of a dish of boiled rice; if cayenne is approved, add a little. 278.—CHINA CIIILO. ANOTHER WAY. Chop very fine two small young lettuces, two onions, a pint of green peas, and a couple of young cucumbers, or the fourth of a pint of mushrooms, season with a tea-spoonful of salt and half a tea- spoonful of pepper; mince the meat of a neck of mutton uncooked, and mix it with the vegetables in a stewpan, add four table-spoonfuls of water and two ounces of butter, clarified will be proved the best; let them well amalgamate over a slow fire, keep them stirred for fifteen minutes, then cover down close and simmer very slowly for two hours, serve it in the centre of boiled rice. 104 MUTTON. 279.—MUTTON KEBOBBED. Procure as lean a loin of mutton as you can, remove the fat and skin, joint it well, chop some parsley with some sweet herbs very fine, and beat it up with the yolk of an egg, add bread crumbs, cut the loin into chops, and spread the bread crumbs and sweet herbs, &c. well over each chop, put each chop in its former place, and tie with tape so that the joint appears whole again, roast it before a quick fire, baste it with fresh butter and its own gravy; when it is done pour into the dish in which it is to be served some rich brown gravy very hot, lay in the mutton, pour gravy over it and send it to table as hot as possible. Slices of beef may be cooked in the same manner. 280.—RISSOLES Are from the most tender part of dressed mutton, free from skin and gristle chopped very fine. You will find rissoles in another place in the book. 281.—MUTTON LIKE VENISON. A haunch or leg will be the most applicable. The joint should be huug as long as it can be with safety, and dressed exactly like a haunch of venison, and served with the same sauces, but to make the taste more perfectly resemble that of venison it should, after having been hung to the turn, be skinned, and laid in a pan with vinegar and water; two parts of the former to one of the latter, not enough to cover it; put in a faggot of herbs, a clove of garlic, one or two bay leaves, a spoonful of whole pepper, and a couple of onions cut in slices; let it soak three days, dry it well, hang it for a day and roast as veuison. It may also be put into a stewpan with half a pint of gravy, and simmered four hours, serve with venison sauce. 282. TO MAKE A SCOTCH HAGGIS. Take the stomach of a sheep. The washing and cleaning is of more consequence than all, as it will be a bad colour and a bad taste if not well cleansed; when clean, turn it inside out, then let it lie for a day or two in salt and water. Blanch the liver, lights, and heart of the sheep, lay them in cold water, chop all very fine, the liver you had better grate, chop a pound of the suet very fine, dry in the oven a pound of oatmeal; mix all this well together, season with pepper and salt, a little chopped parsley, and a little chopped onion; then sew up the bag; before you finish sewing it, add a few spoonfuls of good white stock; put it in a stewpan with a drainer; boil it in water, keeping it well covered all the time, prick it all over with a small larding pin to keep it from bursting; it will take several hours to boil; be careful in taking it up, and let your dish be large enough. 283. EOGNON DE MOUTON A LA FRANCHISE. The French have a faculty of making a dish recherch6 out of mere MUTTON. 106 trifles, their receipt for serving up this little dish is no mean evidence of their peculiar skill. Take half a dozen fine mutton kidneys, clear them of fat and skin, and cut them into thin slices; powder them immediately with sweet herbs in fine powder, parsley which has been chopped, dried, and powdered, cayenne, and salt; put into a stewpan two ounces of clarified butter or fresh if the former is not in reach, put in the slices of kidney, fry them, they will brown very quickly, they must be done on both sides, dredge flour over them, moisten with lemon juice, in five minutes the kidneys will be done ; lift them out into a very hot dish around which are laid sippets fried; pour into the gravy two glasses of champaigne, give it a boil, pour it over the kidneys, and serve. It may here be stated that the French cooks vary constantly the herbs which they employ according to any known preference for the palate of those for whom they cook. Various kinds of wines and sauces may be used for flavouring, and this is constantly done as much for variety and the ability of giving a new name to a dish, which is varied only in some such small feature. 384.— ROGNON DE M0UTON A LA BOURGEOISIE. Clear the kidneys from fat and skin, cut them into thin slices, dredge them with flour and fry crisp, pepper and salt them; flavour some gravy with a little eschalot or garlic and serve. 285.—LOIN OF MUTTON LIKE VENISON. FRENCH RECEIPT. Remove the skin from the joint and bone it, and do it neatly; lay it in'a stewpan with about a pint of weak broth, an onion stuck with cloves, two glasses of red wine, and a tea spoonful of pyroligneous acid; let it boil, put in a bundle of sweet herbs; stew, turning frequently; add as it progresses a little gravy, some very good may be made from the bones; it will take from two hours and a half to three hours. 286. TO DRESS MUTTON HAMS. Soak the ham for five or six hours in cold spring water unless it has only recently been cured, then one hour will suffice; put it into cold water, boil gently; it will be done in two hours and a half. It is eaten cold. 287. MUTTON KIDNEYS BROILED. Skin and split without parting asunder, skewer them through the outer edge and keep them flat, lay the opened sides first to the fire, which should be clear and brisk, in four minutes turn them, sprinkle with salt and cayenne, and when done, which will be in three minutes afterwards, take them from the fire, put a piece of butter inside them, squeeze some lemon juice over them, and serve as hot as possible. 106 MUTTON. 288.—SHEEP'8 TONGUES STEWED. Put them into cold water and let them boil, when they are suffi- ciently tender to remove the skin easily, take them out, split them, and lay them in a stewpau with enough good gravy to cover them. Chop parsley, and mushroom, with a little eschalot finely, work a lump of butter with it, add pepper and salt to flavour; stew them in the gravy until the tongues are tender, lay them in a dish, strain the gravy and pour it hot over the tongues, serve. 289.—IRISH STEW. Take two or three pounds of the neck of mutton, cut it into chops, pare three pounds of potatoes, cut them into thick slices, put them into a stewpan with a quart of water, two or three carrots, turnips or onions may be added, the last are seldom omitted, salt and pepper the mutton when added to the gravy, let it boil or simmer gently two hours, and serve very hot; its excellence much depends on the last instructions being fulfilled. LAMB. 107 CHAPTER VI. LAMB. House lamb is in season in December; grass lamb comes in with Easter. Both are favourite dishes, a preference perhaps existing for the former. They are dressed much in the same manner. 290. FOREQUARTER OF LAKE. This is the favourite and indeed the best joint Do not put it too near the fire at first, when it gets heated baste it well; the fire should be quick, clear, but not fierce; the usual weight of a fore- quarter is between nine and eleven pounds, it will take two hours; when it is done separate the shoulder from the ribs, but before it is quite taken off lay under a large lump of butter, squeeze a lemon, and season with pepper and salt; let it remain long enough to quite melt the butter, then remove the shoulder and lay it on another dish. 291. SADDLE Or LAMB. This joint is now seen nearly as frequently at table as the fore- quarter, and if well cooked is certainly fine eating. Roast it quhkly, but be very careful neither to scorch it nor to take it from the fire until it is done; baste with the fat and gravy which fall from it, and in an hour and three quarters it will be done, unless larger than common, and then it will take two hours; serve with mint and encumber sauce. 292.—LAMB.—TO ROASTA LEG OFLAMB. The rules laid down for roasting mutton must be scrupulously observed with respect to lamb; let it roast gradually, and commence a distance from the fire, a leg of five pounds will take an hour and a quarter, one of six pounds will take an hour and a half. 293.—TO BOIL A LEG OF LAMB. Put it in sufficient clear cold soft water to cover it, let it remain half an hour, a table-spoonful of vinegar or half a handful of salt may be thrown in; put it into a thin white cloth which has been floured, and boil it in enough water to cover it, a good sized bundle of sweet herbs may be thrown into the saucepan; if six pounds it will 108 LAMB. be done in an hour and a half, serve with spinach or French beans; if sent to table cold lay handsome sprigs of parsley about it tastefully; it may, while hot, be garnished with parsley, with thin slices of lemon laid round the dish. 294. — LEG OF LAMB. Take out the bone as in receipt No. 247, and a small portion of he meat, so as to admit of more forcemeat; keep it of a good shape; put a raffle on the knuckle, and glaze it well. 295. A SHOULDER OF LAMB Will be found best cooked when done with the fore-quarter, but if roasted singly will take an hour. 296.—SHOULDER OF LAMB LARDED. Cut your lardons small, of fine white fat bacon, cover them with pounded mixed spices, cayenne pepper, and salt; bone the shoulder of lamb, lard the under side, roll the joint, and bind it with narrow white tape; braise it, and when done glaze it. Serve it on mush- room sauce; any sauce applicable to lamb will serve except mint- sauce, which should not be eaten with this dish. 297. TO GRILL A LOIN OF LAMB. Boil half an hour, take it out and score it like pork, brush it all over with well beaten yolk of eggs, and powder over it bread crumbs mixed with minced parsley, put it into an American oven and roast it until brown; serve with melted butter and lemon pickle or tomato sauce, the last especially, if cold. A shoulder and breast may be dressed in the same manner. 298. SHOULDER OF LAMB FORCED AND BRAI8ED. Take out the bone from the shoulder, you must be very particular and careful in removing the blade bone that you do not cut a hole through the skin; when you have done it fill up the vacancy with some good veal forcemeat, cover it with fat bacon or ham; then put it into a good braise and let it boil gently for about an hour, when required glaze it well; you can make it after you have put in the forcemeat and sewed up the cut part, either as a shoulder of lamb or form into a swan by adding the shank bone for a neck, and form the beak or bill with paste; if plain put a paper raffle or ornamented silver skewer, the sauce as may be approved of, as peas, or spinach, or puree, turnips, or French beans, or truffles, or mushrooms. 299. STEWED LOIN OF LAMB. The loin may be stewed whole or in steaks; in the former the flap being secured by a skewer, is put into a stew-pan, with a quarter of LAJIK. 109 a pound of butter, and covered down close; let it simmer one hour, then turn it, let it simmer again for an hour and a quarter, and then have ready some rich brown gravy hot, lift out the meat, pour the gravy over it, and send it to table with mint sauce, a lettuce, and a few radishes and spring onions. 300.—TO STEW A BREAST OF LAMB. Cut it into pieces, pepper and salt well, stew in sufficient gravy to cover the meat until tender, then thicken the sauce, pour in a glass of sherry; serve on a dish of stewed mushrooms. 301. CHEVAUX-DE-FRISE LAMB. Get two necks of lamb from the same lamb, take off the chine bone not leaving a particle of bone adhering to the ribs, or it cannot be carved clean down between the bones when at table; blanch them a few minutes, put them to cool, then scrape about one inch down from the ends of the ribs between each bone, the skin, and fat; then put the bones to meet regularly, and put one between the other which will form a chevaux-de-frise; braise them the same as the former; when done glaze the fat and meat but not the white rib bones, any of the sauces named or cucumbers. 30'2. CHEVAUX-DE-FRISE WITH LAMB SWEETBREADS. Do the same as before; when it is done and glazed have ready some good lamb sweetbreads, about six larded ones and glazed, put them on the top between the bones, when the two necks are put together. 303. BLAXQUETTE d'aGXEAU A LA PROVEN^ALE. Of the best end of the brisket take two or three pounds, cut it into dice of four inches, rince them in clear water, wipe them with a cloth, and flour them; take two ounces of the fat of boiled bacon, five of fresh butter, chop some parsley, and boil ten minutes; put in the lamb dice, cut up an onion small, squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and season with pepper and salt; let it simmer gradually for two hours, beat up the yolk of three eggs, and add them to the gravy; keep the pan moving above the fire for three minutes, dish and serve. 304.—lamb cuors. Lamb chops and lamb cutlets are cooked in the same manner as mutton chops and cutlets, but require more care in the cooking; they are sent to table with various garnishes, and arranged in many forms, frequently accompanied with a puree of vegetables, or ranged round a pyramid of mashed potatoes; the most simple manner is to garnish with crisped parsley. 110 LAMB. 305. SWEETBREADS Should be soaked in water, put for eight or ten minutes in boiling water, and then into clear cold spring water, to blanch. They may be cut in slices, or in dice, and put into fricasees of meat or ragouts, or they may be served as a separate dish. 306. SWEETBREADS. ANOTHER WAY. Two good throat sweetbreads or three will make an entree; blanch them until fit to eat, take them up and lay them in cold water; when cold dry them well, egg and bread crumb them with or without herbs, put them on a dish and brown them in the oven; mushroom sauce, or endives, or sorrel, or spinach, or tomato will do if approved of. 307. SWEETBREADS FRICASEED. WHITE. Blanch, and then cut them in slices. To a pint of veal gravy put a thickening of flour and butter, a table-spoonful of cream, half a tea-spoonful of mushroom powder, grated lemon peel and nutmeg, and white pepper, to flavour. Stew ten minutes, add the sweetbreads, let them simmer twenty minutes. Dish, add salt, thin pieces of lemon peel; mix up, and serve. 308.—SWEETBREADS FRICASEED.—BROWN. Cut them in small pieces, flour, and fry them. When a good brown pour over them a pint of good beef gravy, highly seasoned; stew gently, until the sweetbreads are tender. Add a little flour and butter to thicken ; add truffles and mushroom ketchup to flavour, morels or mushrooms may be substitued, or all may be cooked with the sweetbreads. 309.—TO STEW SWF.ETBREADS. RIS DE VEAU. Make a force-meat of the tenderest parts of boiled or roast fowl, some bacon, a little parsley chopped, a little thyme, lemon-peel, the yolks of two eggs, cayenne pepper, and nutmeg. Lay the sweet- breads in a pan, upon a layer of slices of veal, cover them with slices of bacon, put in a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion sliced, a little mace, and pepper and salt. Pour in a quart of good broth, and stew for two hours, remove them, and reduce by boiling the broth to a fourth: heat the sweetbreads in it, garnish with lemon in slices. 310.—SWEETBREADS LARDED.—A LA DAUBE. Blanch and lard them with bacon, put them into a stewpan with a pint of veal broth; add a little browning, with the juice of half a lemon. Stew until tender; thicken the gravy with a little flour and butter. Lay bunches of boiled celery rouud the dish when you serve. LAMB. Ill 811. HEART AND LAMB SWEETBREADS LARDED WITH BACON OR TBUFFLES. The same quantity, either one larded and two plain, or two if fine larded with bacon; when blanched for two or three minutes, put them in a small dish or stewpan, with a little stock; cover them over and boil them either in the oven or over the fire for about twenty minutes; take them up and glaze them several times, keeping them hot; lamb nreetbreads will take eight for a dish, and require to be neatly trimmed, cutting away the pipe, and dish them on a rim of forcemeat or mashed potatoes, or spinach. 912. SWEETBREADS AS CUTLETS. If you cannot get heart sweetbreads, you must use the throat. Blanch them for about ten minutes, then put them to cool into cold water; take them out and dry them in a cloth, then cut long ways, twelve or fourteen pieces for cutlets, making them a nice shape; if you wish for them to be white saute cutlets, you must put some butter or lard in your cutlet-pan, a juice of lemon, a little white pepper, and salt; do not colour them, take them up and lay them upon white paper to soak up the grease from them; dish them round upon a tureen, pouring the sauce in the middle of them. 313. SWEETBREADS WITH TRUFFLES. Blanch and trim off the pipes and skin from the under part; then take your small knife, and make a small incision slanting ways, and lay in a small round piece of truffle until the sweetbread is covered; braise them for a short time, or do them in some good consomme, and glaze them. 314. ROAST SWEETBREAD. Boil sweetbreads, either heart or throat, trim them and dry them, then egg and bread crumb them, brown them before the fire or in the oven; put good clear gravy under them, and water cresses, as a garnish. 315. SWEETBREAD CUTLETS CRUMBED AU GRATIN. Cut the sweetbreads as before a nice thickness, but not too thick; dry them, then egg and bread crumb them as you would veal or other cutlets; use any sauce that may be preferred. 316. SWEETBREAD CUTLETS—GLAZED. Do these as for the former saute cutlets, only glaze them a bright colour. 317. LAMBS HEAD AND EMINCEES. Wash well a lamb's head and pluck, take out the brains, blanch them by themselves, boil the head and pluck for about a quarter of 112 LAMB. an hour, take it up to cool, take out the tongue, trim the two halves of the head neatly, then score it, then egg and bread crumb them as you would cutlets and brown them in the oven or before the fire. Cut up in small dice in equal quantities the tongue, liver, heart, and lights; fry in a stewpan a little chopped parsley, shalot, and mushroom if you have it, to a nice light brown, dry up the butter with flour, use some good second stock or brown sauce; season with lemon, cayenne pepper, salt, and a dust of sugar, put the emincees under the head, the brains, egg, and bread crumb in four pieces and put round. 318. SHEEl' OB 1 .AMlis' TROTTERS. Get a dozen or two of trotters, stew them for several hours, until all the bones will come from them, save this liquor, do not break the skin, stuff them with good quenelles or forcemeat; return them again into the same stock, boil them about fifteen minutes, glaze them; sobeise sauce or tomato sauce is good with them, or you may fry them with butter. PORK. 113 CHAPTER VII. PORK The proportion of persons who are fond of pork to those who dis like it are as a hundred to one, and yet it is falsely considered a vulgar taste, the passion for it possessed by the Chinese has been illustrated by many tales, and when in season the frequency of its appearance upon a homely English table is no small proof of the esti- mation in which it is held; it is like veal—indigestible, at least 'bemists consider it so, though some medical men have asserted to the contrary, it should at least be thoroughly cooked to place, if possible, its digestibility beyond a doubt. In roasting, or in boiling, ample time should be allowed for the joint. Pork is always salted for boiling, and is much liked in this form. When sent to table roasted, apple sauce should in every case accompany it. As pork is so universally used in every family, and so little used for company, it is useless to further comment upon it. 319. PORK. TO ROAST A SUCKLINGPIG. A sucking pig should be dressed as soon after being killed as practicable. When scalded and prepared for cooking, lay in the belly a stuffing of bread, sage, and onions, pepper and salt, with a piece of butter, sew it up, rub the skin of the pig with butter, skewer the legs back, that while roasting, the inside as well as outside of the pig may be thoroughly browned; it must be put to a quick fire, but at such a distance as to roast gradually, and a coating of flour should be dredged over it that it may not blister, or it should not be left a minute; if floured, when the pig is done, scrape the flour off with a wooden, or very blunt knife, and rub it with a buttered cloth, cut off the head, and dividing it take out the brains, mix them with a little gravy or bread sauce, divide the pig in half, from neck to tail, and lay each inside flat upon the dish, so that the two edges of the back touch; place each half of the head with the outer side uppermost at each end of the dish, and an ear on each side; the gravy should be poured in the dish hot, and the whole served as hot as possible; as a matter of convenience it is often sent to the baker's oven, a large piece of butter should accompany it for the baker to baste it with, and upon its return it should be cut and served as above. The gravy may be heightened in its flavour by various additions, or two or three sauces and gravies may be served with it, such as veal gravy thickened and flavoured with wine, lemon juice, and cayenne, and also bread sauce and a plain gravy; this may be a matter of taste. I 114 PORK. It is usual to procure the pig from the dealer ready prepared for cooking, but in the event of its being required to scald it after killing, we subjoin the following receipt. 320. TO SCALDA SUCKING PIG. Plunge the pig into cold water the instant it is killed, let it remain five minutes, have ready pounded resin, and rub well with it over the skin, plunge it into a tub of scalding water, letting it remain only half a minute, remove it, and immediately take off the hair, lose no time, if the hair should not come freely from some parts rub it again with resin, and put it into the scalding water, and then remove the hair, when it is all off wash it well with warm water, and then in cold, changing the water several times that no flavour of the resin may be retained; cut off the feet at the first joint, slit down the belly, and remove the entrails, put aside the heart, liver, and lights, with the feet, wash again inside and out the pig, dry it well, and keep it from the air by covering it with a cloth. 321. HO AM' PIG. Soak in milk some light bread, boil some sage and onions in plenty of water, strain it off and chop it all very fine, press the milk from the bread, and then mix the sage and onion with pepper and salt, in the bread put the yolk of an egg to bind it a little, put this in the inside of the pig, rub the pig over with milk and butter, paper it, roast it a beautiful brown, cut off the head before it is drawn from the spit, and likewise cut it down the back and then you will not break the skin; take out the spit, cut off the ears from the head, and crack the bone and take out the brains, put them in a stewpan with all the inside stuffing and a little brown sauce; dish the pig, the backs outside, and put the sauce in the middle, and some in a boat, the ears at each end. 322. A LEG OF PORK ROASTED. The pork should be young and dairy-fed, score the skin with a sharp penknife, a little fresh butter is sometimes rubbed over the skin to make it brown and crisp without blistering. Chop some sage that has been scalded, very fine, add to it an onion parboiled, mix bread crumbs and a small portion of apple chopped very fine, mix all together, season with pepper and salt, make an incision, separating the skin from the fat in the under and fillet end of the leg, and place the stuffing there, the time of roasting will depend upon the size of the leg, serve up with apple sauce. 323. A LEG OF PORK BOILED. After having been salted it should be washed in clean cold water and scraped thoroughly white and clean preparatory to cooking; it should then be put into a floured cloth and into cold water on the fire, when the rind is quite tender the pork will be done; let the water PORK. 115 be well skimmed, and serve with such vegetables as are in season; should the joint be large allow a quarter of an hour to each pound, with an additional twenty minutes from the time it boils. 334.—LOIN OF PORKShould, like the leg, be scored before roasting, and well jointed to make the chops separate easily, and then roast as a loin of mutton; or it may be put into enough water to cover it, simmer until it is nearly done, then take it out, take the skin off, coat it well with yolk of egg and bread crumbs, roast for about a quarter of an hour, until it is thoroughly done. 325.—A FILLET OF PORK TO RESEMBLE VEAL. The fillet should be cut from the leg of a very large pig, remove the bone and fill the orifice with veal stuffing, roast it until it is more than half done, then take some thin broth and put it in the stewpan, put in the pork, stew until it is thoroughly done, then thicken the gravy and send it to table with forcemeat balls and lemon cut in slices. 326. GRISKIN OF PORK. Put it into a saucepan with enough water to cover it, when it has boiled take it up, butter, and flour it, and put it before the fire to brown, ten minutes will suffice. 327.—NECK OF PORK ROLLED. Bone it, chop sage finely, mix it with well powdered bread crumbs, cover the meat with it on both sides, roll the pork, fasten it securely, and roast it gently. A hand and spring are sometimes dressed thus. 328.—SPARE RIB OF PORK ROAST. You must paper and joint this down the middle, and sprinkle it with a little fine sage and salt, baste and flour it well; apple sauce in a boat. 329.—SPARE RIB. A spare rib will take two hours and a half to roast unless very large, and then three hours will be required to cook it thoroughly; while roasting baste with butter and dredge with flour, pound some sage and powder the spare rib with it about twenty minutes, before it is done; a pinch of salt may be added. 330.—CHINE OF FORK. This joint is usually sent to table with turkey, it should be salted for about sixty or seventy hours previous to cooking, and then be I 2 116 PORK. roasted; a chine boiled is as often sent to table as roasted, but the Jatter is usually preferred. 331. CHINE OF PORK. Generally used at Christmas. This, when properly cured, is mostly used cold; boil it in a cloth, with a sauce of red cabbage, or sauer kraut if cold; garnish with parsley. 332. ALL COAST PORKS. Be sure to cut the skin lengthways into small strips, not very deep—to reach the meat; send up apple sauce to all roast porks. 333.—TO PICKLE PORK. Dredge it with salt, pounded nearly as fine as flour, place'upon four sticks crossed upon a dry cold flagstone, or in an earthenware dish, let it remain to drain from eighteen to twenty-four hours, then rub it well in with a brine, consisting of one pound of salt, half a pound of coarse brown sugar, two ounces of saltpetre, and a quarter of an ounce of salt prunel; the last, if the pork is delicate, may be omitted. If many pieces are being salted, put them into a tub, and pack them closely, filling up the interstices with common salt, place a weight upon the top to keep the meat down, as well as to prevent the admittance of any air, and when taken out for cooking scrape off the salt, wash the pork in several waters, or place it under a water tap, letting the water run upon it two or three minutes, turning it occasionally, or it may lie in soak half an hour; it should be put to boil in cold water, and when the rind is tender it will be done enough. 334.—BOILED PORK—OF ALL KINDS, The leg you must skin the same as ham, and dish its back part upwards, and glaze it; place a ruffle at the knuckle; sauce, sauer kraut, or stewed red cabbage; pease pudding to all pork when boiled. 335.—pig's cheeks—a half one. Boil and trim in the shape of ham, and if very fat, carve it as a cockle shell; glaze it well, or put bread crumbs and brown them, sauce as before. 336.—pig's face for breakfast. Cut the ears off and take out the tongue and brains, then lay them in salt for two days, take them out of that, and then use the ingredients as for tongues, and dry them the same as hams. 337.—pork cutlets. Cut from a neck, or what is called fore-loin of pork, the best end. POBK. 117 trim it as you do lamb or mutton, leaving a little fat; scrape the bone, rub or chop some sage fine, with a very little piece of shalot, mix it up with only sufficient bread crumbs, put black pepper and salt into the crumbs, herbs, dip each cutlet in clarified butter or melted lard, press the crumbs well upon the cutlets, have a saute pan greased with lard, lay them into it, fry them a nice light brown, take them up and dry them on paper, dish upon mashed potatoes, use sauce robert, or sobiese, or tomato, or any other as to palate. 338.—PORK CUTLETS. Cut them from a small delicate loin of pork, bone, and trim them neatly, fry them a light brown, put into a small stewpan a little vinegar, and eschalot chopped very finely, two table-spoonfuls of tomato sauce, and sufficient brown gravy to make it tasty; stew the cutlets in the sauce five minutes, and send them to table dished handsomely; if the outlets are broiled they may be dipped in yolk of egg and bread crumbs, and broiled over a clear fire, and served with tomato sauce, or sauce robert. 339.—PORK chops or steaks. Cut from the best end of the loin, or from the chump or leg if steaks; remove the fat and skin, turn them frequently and quickly while broiling, if your gridiron be of the old fashion it is better to keep it aslant on the fire, the handle being the lowest part it prevents very much of the fat from falling into the fire, the flare of which is apt to impart a disagreeable flavour to the chops; this observation applies also to mutton chops, and will be found useful if followed: sprinkle them with salt when nearly done, and rub with a little fresh butter previous to serving, if for a side dish garnish with crisped parsley. 840. PORK SAUSAGES. There are many receipts for the making of pork sausages; several counties have their own peculiar receipts; Epping, in Essex.Tamed for its butter, is also famed for its sausages ; Lewes, in Sussex, and Cam- bridge, also have a name for the manufacture of the same article. The peculiarity in their sausages being the quantity and variety of herbs which they introduce, the prevalence of some particular one giving the flavour, as well as the peculiarity to each. The presence of so many herbs is, however, not always considered an agreeable feature, and many palates are offended at that which forms to others the great merit. The following is a very simple receipt. Take of the fat of pork one pound, that of the loin of a large richly fed pig, or the inward fat of a small one. Chop it finely with half a pound of lean pork; add to it four or five sage leaves finely chopped, some lemon thyme in a small quantity, and three dessert- 118 FORK. spoonfuls of crumb of bread powdered; be careful not to put too much of the latter, as it tends to turn the sausages sour if kept. Amalgamate these ingredients well, dust on grated nutmeg, mace, and cloves in powder, and finish with black pepper and salt, being sure to season well; the meat may then be put into the skins, or may be put in jars covered down from the air, to be used for rolls or stuff- ing, or any required purpose. All skin must be pared from the fat before chopping, and every sinew removed from the lean pork, as well as any bone, or anything which may impair the taste when eaten. 341. THE UNIVERSITY RECEIPT FOR PORK SAUSAGES. To a couple of pounds of lean pork young, white, and delicate, put three quarters of a pound of minced beef suet, the pork must first be chopped very fine; add three dessert-spoonfuls of bread which has been dipped in Port wine, dried and grated fine; work it together with the yolks of three eggs smoothly beaten: season it with pepper and salt, and dried sage: a very little cayenne may be introduced, and a very small piece of garlic. Work the whole well together in a mortar until it forms a paste; it may then be put into wide skins, or pressed down into jars for future use. It is cut into square pieces, dredged with flour, fried in fresh butter, and sent to table on a toast as a breakfast dish. 342.—saucisses a l'espaonole. Cut into chops the loin of a good sized pig, bone it, and cut the meat into dice, keeping the fat and lean separate, three quarters of an inch square. Chop two corns of garlic fine, add to it black pepper, Spanish pepper, and salt; mix it well together, and season the meat with it: pour over it half a pint of an acid wine, and when it has been drawn in by the meat, add more, until the expira- tion of a week; then lay the meat in skins, alternately fat and lean, and if any moisture appears to be required give it a little more wine. Twist the skin, and tie it in the lengths you require, and keep them in a cool dry place. They may be boiled, fried, broiled, grilled, toasted, served with poultry or veal, or may be eaten with bread alone. 343.—pork sausages. Chop, particularly fine, about two or three pounds of lean pork, and an equal quantity of fat; have ready some sage, either dry or green, either passed through a sieve or chopped very fine, a small piece of shalot, a few grains of ground cloves, season it with pepper and salt, mix a few fine bread crumbs up with it, have your skins ready cleaned, then fill them, or if preferred roll into balls and fry them, you will tie them the length you wish the sausages to be, PORK. 119 prick the skins with a fork before you fry them, you may do them in the oven if it should be hot. 344.—ANOTHER WAY. Chop the pork as before, only add half the quantity of lean veal, a pound of suet chopped equally fine, have ready a French roll soaked in milk but no crust, season it well with pepper and salt, mix it all well together. 345. A DIFFERENT TO A DIFFERENT PALATE. Chop pork as before, and an equal quantity of fat, and the quan- tity of lean veal, and the same of suet, and two or three handfuls of fine bread crumbs, have ready a few sage leaves, a few of knotted marjoram and one shalot; pound all well together, season with white pepper and salt, either put them in skins or roll them and fry them as above. 346.—SPICED SAUSAGES. Rub well into a piece of pork some saltpetre, allspice, and black pepper, let it lie several days, rubbing it each day, then chop it small, and add to it two shalots chopped fine, have ready cleaned well an ox-gut, fill it with this meat quite tight, tie both ends firm, let it be smoked as hams, wrap it in a thin cloth, then let it be well dried, you may tie it into what lengths you please before smoking; this will eat hot or cold. 347. WHITE SAUSAGES. Have ready some well-dried oatmeal, two or three onions to boil in milk, chop them very fine, chop two pounds of suet very fine, mix about a pint of oatmeal to the suet, add the onions, season all with pepper and salt, rather predominant with pepper and onions, filling the skins as for former sausages, if approved of add a few currants and boiled rice in milk to them. You may make sausages of any dressed meats, either chicken or rabbits; chop up the meat very fine, adding onions and seasonings as in the former, adding chopped parsley and a few grains of pounded mace, add some bacon chopped instead of suet, mix all together with two yolks of eggs, a few bread crumbs and a few drops of lemon-juice; fill this in the skins as before, and broil or fry them. 348. SAUCISSES AUX CHATAIGNES. STEWED SAUSAGE MEAT, WITH CHESTNUTS. Take twenty or thirty sound chestnuts, roast them over a slow fire, and when sufficiently roasted to remove the husk take them off, peel them, removing the inner skin as well as the husk, and put them aside sufficiently near the fire not to cool too readily. Cut into 120 PORK. diamonds half a dozen thin slices of sausage meat, and fry them brown in a little fresh butter. When they are a good colour, take them out, and pour three parts of the butter in which they have been fried into a small well-tinned or earthenware saucepan. Thicken it while heating with a spoonful of flour, and pour in gradually a pint of good gravy, with a glass of old brown sherry, or two of Madeira. Put in a faggot of herbs, and season to palate, a little cayenne may accompany the common pepper. As soon as it boils lay the sausage cakes round the saucepan close to the sides, leaving the centre clear, and in this space put the chestnuts. Let them stew slowly three quarters of an hour; then dish them, arranging the sausage meat and chestnuts in the same manner as in the stewpan; pour the gravy over them, removing the faggot of herbs first and serve. 349. TO COLLAR A PIG'SHEAD. Clean thoroughly, and put it in pickle for a week, boil it tender, then take out the bones carefully, turn the upper part of one cheek to the snout of the other cheek, season them with pepper and salt, roll it lightly in a cloth, and secure it, then boil until it is very tender, do not remove the cloth when done but place it upon an earthenware dish, lay a heavy weight upon it. and unbind when cold; if the cheek is a large and fat one, it will be improved by laying a slice or two of lean pork, or ham between the cheeks before binding them in the cloth. 350.—pig's head baked. Let it be divided and thoroughly cleaned; take out the brains, trim the snout and ears, bake it an hour and a half, wash the brains thoroughly, blanch them, beat them up with an egg, pepper and salt, and some finely chopped or pounded sage, and a small piece of butter, fry them or brown them before the fire; serve with the head. 351.— PIG'S HEAD BOILED. This is the more profitable dish though not so pleasant to the palate, it should first be salted, which is usually done by the pork butcher, it should be boiled an hour and a quarter, it must boil gently or the meat will be hard ; serve with vegetables. 35:2.—PETTITOES. Put them in just sufficient water to cover them, add the heart and liver, boil them ten minutes, take out the liver and heart, and mince them small, and return them to the feet, stew until quite tender, thicken with flour and butter, season with pepper and salt, serve up with sippets of plain bread, or toasted bread; make a pyramid of the minced heart and liver, and lay the feet round them. When pettitoes are fried, they should be first boiled, then dipped in butter, and fried a light brown. PORK. 121 353 —pigs' feet stewed. Clean, split, and boil tender, put them into a stewpan with enough gravy to cover them, an onion sliced, a few sage leaves, whole black pepper, allspice, and salt, stew forty minutes, strain off the gravy, thicken with flour and butter, add two spoonfuls of vinegar or one dessert-spoonful of lemon pickle; serve it up with the feet. 354.—pigs' feet and ears fried. They must be well cleaned, and boiled until tender, and laid in vinegar and water, with salt in it, until they are required for use; to prepare them for cooking, cut the feet in two, slice the ears, dip them in butter, dredge with flour, fry a nice colour, and serve with melted butter and lemon pickle. 355.—pigs' harslet Is made with the liver and sweetbreads, which must be well cleaned, add to them pieces of pork both fat and lean, chop finely sage and onions, season with pepper and salt, and mix with the preceding; put them in a cowl, tie it closely, and roast. It may also be baked. Serve with a sauce of port wiue and water and mustard, just boiled up, and put it into the dish. 356.—cochox de i.ait en blanquktte.- Dress this the same as Blanquette de Veau. 357.—white puddings Are made with beef suet and oatmeal, flavoured and seasoned. Take a pound and a half of beef suet, chop it very fine, and, having boiled a pound of oatmeal tightly wedged down in a small white basin closely covered with a cloth for five hours, scrape it into powder.'and mix it with the suet, two small onions boiled and chopped fine, and season well with white pepper and salt, n small quantity of thyme and marjoram may be added at pleasure. Boil them an hour. Like all sausages they must be pricked while cooking, to suffer the hot air generated to escape, or they will burst. 358.—black pdddings. Stir three quarts of sheep's blood with one spoonful of salt till cold, boil aquartof Embden grits in sufficient water to swell them, drain, and add them to the blood with a pound of suet, a little pounded nutmeg, some mace, cloves, and allspice, a pound of the hog's fat cut small, some parsley finely minced, sage, sweet herbs, a pint of bread crumbs, salt, and pepper; mix these ingredients well together, put them into well cleaned skins, tie them in links, and prick the skins, that while boiling they may not burst. Let them boil twenty minutes, and cover them with clean straw until they are cold. 122 POBK. 359.—BLACK AND WHITE PUDDINGS. Procure the pig's blood, then add half a pound of half-boiled rice, set it to cool keeping it stirred, add a little more rice boiled in milk, add it to the blood, cut up about one pound of fat pork into large dice, melt half a pound of lard and pour into the blood and rice, then add your fat, with a few bread crumbs, three shalots, a little parsley, some black pepper, cayenne pepper, and salt, mix all well together, then fill into skins as before; tie them the length you wish them, then boil them a quarter of an hour, take them out and lay them on some new clean straw until cold, then give them another boil for a few minutes, then turn them as before until wanted, pot them in the oven when you require them, or fry them or broil them. 360.— LARD. — TO MELT LARD. Take the inner fat of a newly killed pig and strip off the skin completely and carefully, slice it and put it into ajar, a sprig of rose- mary may be placed with it, and set the jar in a pan of boiling water; let it melt, and when perfectly fluid pour it into dry clean jars, and cover them closely; it may be kept some time in a dry place, and when used may be mixed with butter for pastry, for frying fish, and many other purposes in cooking. 861. HAMS.—BOILED HAM. Hams which come from the large cheesemongers have usually been long hung and are very dirty; if such should be the case the ham should be soaked about twelve hours, then wrapped in a clean cloth, and laid upon stone flags for two days, the cloth being kept moistened with clean soft water, this will render it tender when cooked, let it be thoroughly scraped and cleaned, and placed in the copper, which in small families will be found the most convenient mode of cooking it; they should be put in sufficient water to cover them, which water, when the ham is cooked, will be found of the greatest service in making stock for soups; the time it will require to boil will depend upon the weight of the ham, a small one, three hours and a half, which may progress according to the weight to six hours, when it is done remove the skin if possible without breaking it, it prevents the ham when cold becoming dry; spread over the ham bread raspings, the dish should be garnished with sliced boiled carrots. 362. TO CURE HAMS. In London this is a knowledge scarcely required, hams are brought thither in such vast numbers that it is scarcely worth the trouble to cure them, the more especially as the hams are generally cured with considerable skill and with advantages not possessed by a private family. As, however, in many families it is preferred to cure at home, and as in many parts of the country, where this work, it is hoped, will find its way, it becomes almost a matter of necessity, we subjoin the following receipt. PORK. 123 Place the ham in a deep pan, cover it with treacle, and rub it well with it for three days; then mix together in a mortar one pound of common salt, half the quantity of bay salt, an ounce of black pepper, and three ounces of saltpetre, these quantities have been found to answer most successfully; beat them well together, and rub well into the ham, continue this for a month, turning and rubbing every day, then drain the pickle from the ham, allowing it after being removed from the pan about sixty hours to drain effectually, it may then be washed with a little white vinegar and hung up to dry. 363.—TO CURB HAMS. Pound some bay salt, saltpetre, and common salt, and some coarse brown sugar, mix it all well together, then put it all to get hot, and while hot rub the hams well with this, repeating it every morning for a week, let them lie in the brine for another week, until all well incorporated in the meat; then take them out to drain on dishes, flour them and hang them up to dry; you must be guided a good deal by the size of the hams. 364.—TONGUES. You will first lay in salt, first then use the same hot preparations daily, about ten days will do for the tongues; sheep's tongues_may be done the same, but less time. 365. ANOTHER RECEIPT TO CURE HAM. Let the ham hang for three days, sprinkle it well during the time with salt. Make a pickle of eight ounces of bay salt, an equal quantity of common salt, two ounces of saltpetre, the same of black pepper, half a pound of common brown sugar, and a quart of beer; boil it, pour hot upon the ham, turn it every day in the pickle for three weeks, wipe it as dry as possible, and bury it in bran. Smoke it for a month over wood smoke; it must be sewn in a coarse strong wrapper. 366.—TO BAKE A HAM. Put the ham in soak previous to dressing it; if an old one two hours will be required, but if not very old, an hour will suffice. Wipe it very dry, and cover it with a paste about an inch in thick- ness. The edges being first moistened must be drawn together, and made to adhere, or the gravy will escape. Bake it in a regular, well- heated oven, it will take from three to six hours, according to its weight; when done remove the paste, and then the skin. This must be done while the ham is hot. If well baked and not too salt, it will prove of finer flavour than if boiled. 124 roRK. 307. TO PRAISEA HAM IN THE FRENCH FASHION. It is prepared for cooking in the same manner as in the preceding receipt, but when cleaned it is placed upon a layer of new hay, which has previously been laid evenly upon a clean white cloth, which should also be thin, that the flavour of the braise may be imparted. It is then placed in a stewpan, with two parts water to one part vin ordinaire, or any light white wine, and suffered to come to a boil. The scum must be removed, and then vegetables added, four carrots, three onions, a faggot of herbs, and, if approved, a little corn of garlic, perhaps less of that powerfully flavoured root. Simmer from three hours and a half to six, according to the weight; when tender it is enough. The skin should then be stripped off carefully, and bread raspings strewed over it. Powdered herbs, or parsley chopped very fine, are sometimes mixed with the raspiugs, but taste must regulate its admission or omission. 368. TO PRAISEA HAM. Put the ham into water the night previous to cooking, and next day wash it in warm water, trim it by cutting away all the yellow fat and rusty parts; take off the knuckle, and pare down all the under part; put it in it stewpan, and just cover it with water; lay in a slice of beef cut into pieces, a few onions, a faggot of sweet herbs, three small carrots, and a little allspice; simmer from three to six hours, it must depend entirely upon the size and weight. Take out the ham, and skin it; glaze, and serve it upon a puree of vegetables. The braise may be made into a rich brown soup, thickened and flavoured with wine, it may serve also for the flavouring of soups. Mo.—HAM RASHERS, OR SLICES May be toasted, broiled, or fried. May be served with spinach aud poached eggs, boiled green peas. Stewed with green peas, or cut in thin slices, divided in four pieces, each piece rolled and fas- tened with a skewer, roasted in a Dutch oven, and served with peas. They should in all cases be cut an even thickness, and cooked without injuring the colour. Bacon may be dressed in the same variety. 370. TO CURE BACON,COBBETT's RECEIPT. The two sides that remain, and which are called flitches, are to be cured for bacon. They are first rubbed with salt on their insides, or flesh sides, then placed one on the other, the flesh sides uppermost, in a salting trough which has a gutter round its edges to drain away the brine, for to have sweet and fine bacon the flitches must not be sopping in brine, which gives it the sort of taste that barrel pork and sea pork have, and than which nothing is more villanous; every one knows how different is the taste of fresh dry salt from that of salt in a dissolved state, therefore change the salt often, once in four or five PORK. 125 days; let it melt and sink in, but let it not lie too long; change the flitches, put that at bottom which was first on the top, do this a couple of times; this mode will cost you a great deal more in salt than the sopping mode, but without it your bacon will not be so sweet and fine, nor keep so well. As for the time required iu making your flitches sufficiently salt, it depends on circumstances, the thickness of the flitch, the state of the weather, the place wherein the salting is going on; it takes a longer time for a thick than a thin flitch; it takes longer in dry than in damp weather; it takes longer in a dry than in a damp place; but for the flitches of a hog of five score, in weather not very dry or damp, about six weeks may do; and as yours is to be fat, which receives little injury from over salting, give time enough, for you are to have bacon until Christmas comes again. The place for salting should, like a dairy, always be cool, but always admit of a free circulation of air; confined air, though cool, will taint meat sooner than the mid-day sun accompanied by a breeze. With regard to smoking the bacon, two precautions are necessary: first, to hang the flitches where no rain comes down upon them, and next, that the smoke must proceed from wood, not peat, turf, nor coal. As to the time it requires to smoke a flitch, it must depend a good deal upon whether there be a constant fire beneath, and whether the fire be large or small; a month will do if the fire be pretty constant, and rich as a farm-house fire usually is; but over smoking, or rather too long hanging in the air, makes the bacon rust; great attention should therefore be paid to this matter. The flitch ought not to be dried up to the hardness of a board, and yet it ought to be perfectly dry; before you hang it up lay it on the floor, scatter the flesh side pretty thickly over with bran, or with some fine sawdust, not of deal or fir; rub it on the flesh, or pat it well down upon it, this keeps the smoke from getting into the little openings, and makes a sort of crust to be dried on. "To keep the bacon sweet and good, and free from hoppers, sift fine some clean and dry wood ashes. Put some at the bottom of a box or chest, long enough to hold a flitch of bacon. Lay in one flitch, and then put in more ashes, then another flitch, and cover this with six or eight inches of the ashes. The place where the box or chest is kept ought to be dry, and should the ashes become damp, they should be put in the fire-place to dry, and when cold put back again. With these precautions, the bacon will be as good at the end of the year, as on the first day." It may be as well to observe in reference to the above receipt, given by the very celebrated William Cobbett in his Cottage Economy, that most counties in England have their peculiar method of curing hams and bacon, each varying in some slight degree from the other, and, of course, each is considered orthodox. But for simple general rules, the above may be safely taken as a guide; and those who implicitly follow the directions given will possess at the expiration of from six weeks to two months well flavoured and well cured bacon. 126 PORK. 871. TO CUREBACON FOR LANDING.It is of little use, preparing a small piece of bacon for larding, for different joints require lardings of different lengths, a piece of beef, for example, will, if of a tolerable size, require very lengthy landings, as a fowl will require but small ones. Ten to twenty pounds should at least be prepared; take fifteen pounds, and the fatter it is the better, rub it well with a pound and a half of pounded common salt, if in one piece lay it upon a board with another over it, if in more than one piece let each piece have a board with a weight at the top, keep it in a cool place four or five weeks, hang it to dry but not to be smoked. 372. TO BOIL BACON. If very salt, soak it in soft water two hours before cooking- Put it into a saucepan with plenty of water, and let it boil gently; if two or three pounds, it will take from an hour to an hour and a quarter; if larger, an hour and forty minutes will suffice. If a fine piece of the gammon of bacon, it may when done have the skin, as in hams, stripped off, and have finely powdered bread raspings strewed over it. It will improve the appearance when sent to table. 373. BACON, TO BROIL. Make up a sheet of paper in the shape of a drippingpan, cut your bacon into thin slices, cut off the rind, lay the bacon on the paper, put it over the gridiron, set it over a slow fire, and it will broil clearly. 374 .—BACON, TO MAKE. Rub the bacon with a little common salt, and let them lie till the brine runs from them; in a week rub off all the salt and put them in a tub, then rub into the flitches a pound of saltpetre pounded and heated, the next day do the same with common salt, also heated, let them lie a week, often rubbing them, do the same for three weeks or a month, at the end of that time diy and hang them up for use. 375. BACON AND CABBAGE. Boil some fine streaked part of bacon with a little stock, and the ends of eight or ten sausages, boil in the same stock some white cabbages for two hours, add salt and spice and serve very hot, place your sausages and cabbage round your dish, and the bacon in the middle. 376. BACON AND EGGS. Take a quarter of a pound of streaked bacon, cut it into thin slices, and put them into a stewpan over a slow fire, take care to turn them frequently, then pour the melted fat of the bacon into a dish, break over it seven or eight eggs, add two spoonfuls of gravy, PORK. 127 and a little salt and pepper, and stew the whole over a slow fire, pass a salamander over it and serve. 377.—BACON I'HAZE. Beat eight eggs into a batter, a little cream and flour, fry some thin slices of bacon and dip them in it, lay the bacon in a fryingpan, pour the batter over them, when one side is fried turn and pour more batter over them, when both sides are of a good colour lay them on a dish and serve hot. 378. BACON GAMMON, TO BAKE. Take a gammon of bacon, lay it to soak all night, scrape it clean and stuff it with thyme, sage, savory, sweet morjoram, penny-royal, strawberry-leaves, violet-leaves, and fennel; chop these and mix them with the yolks of hard eggs, pepper, and nutmeg, boiled till tender; when it is cold pare the under side, pull off the skin, season it with pepper and nutmeg, and put it in a paste, and bake with whole cloves and slices of raw bacon laid over it, and butter. 879.—BACON TOAST. Cut some thin slices of bread, about two or three inches long, cut some streaked bacon in small pieces, dip them into a raw egg beaten up with shred parsley, green onions, shalots, and pepper, fry over a alow fire, and serve with clear sauce and a little vinegar in it. 380.—BACON TOAST. Cut off the ends of a stale French brick, and lard the middle of it with streaked bacon, then, with a very sharp knife, cut the loaf in slices, about a quarter of an inch thick, dip them in eggs, and fry gently in a very hot pan till of a good colour; serve with a little clear sauce and a little vinegar and pepper. 128 POULTRY. CHAPTER VIII. POULTRY. Always have good and fat poultry where possible, in the country you may command it. The best sort for table is the Dorking breed, they are five toed, have white legs, and feathers of a greyish white colour. About three weeks before you want to use them, six or twelve fowls, according to your consumption, should be put into the coop, and as you kill one or more replace them to keep up the stock; for the first week feed them alternate days with boiled rice and soaked bread and milk, the remainder of the time mix barley meal with the skimmings of your stockpot and a spoonful of moist sugar, the windows of your poultry house must be darkened. Fowls should be carefully drawn, so that the gall bladder is uninjured, and should only be done through the vent. Roast with a brisk and clear fire. A capon will take five-and- thirty minutes, smaller fowls a less time in proportion. A turkey of POULTRY-. 129 fourteen pounds will take two hours; the time will increase or decrease with the weight The same rule applies to geese, a large one will take an hour and a half, chickens take half an hour, pigeons ten minutes less. It must be understood that the adherence to the time'will depend on the state of the fire, &C.; a slow fire will make a longer time necessary, and at the same time spoil the poultry. 381.—to bone birds: Begin to bone any birds by first taking out the breast bone, when you will have sufficient space to remove the back with a sharp knife, and then the leg bones; the skin must not be broken, but the meat of the legs must be pushed inwards. 382. TURKEY ROAST.It is stuffed with either sausage meat or fillet of veal stuffing. While roasting a piece of paper should be placed over the part stuffed, as being bulky it will catch the fire and become scorched, but keep the heat well to the breast, in order that it may be as well done as the rest of the bird. Baste well, and froth it up. Serve with gravy in the dish, and bread sauce in a tureen. To the sausage meat, if used, add a few bread crumbs and a beaten egg. Turkey is sometimes stuffed with truffles; they are prepared thus: they must be peeled, and chopped, and pounded in a mortar, in quantities of a pound and a half will be found sufficient; rasp the same weight of fat of bacon, and mix it with the truffles. Stuff the turkey with it; this stuffing is usually placed in the turkey two days previous to cooking, it is supposed to impart a flavour to the flesh of the fowl. Cut thin slices of fat bacon, and place over the breast of the turkey. Secure it with half a sheet of clean white paper, and roast. Chest- nuts dressed in the same fashion are found an excellent substitute for truffles. Two hours will roast it. 383. ROAST TURKEY. Stuff it with veal stuffing, with or without truffles, if truffles, chop and pound some and mix in the stuffing, keeping all your large ones to be whole for the body of the turkey, you must keep them in the turkey for two days; chestnuts should be used raw, pare and pound them, roast at a slow fire covered with buttered paper. 884.—TURKEY BOILED. A hen bird is considered the best. It may be stuffed with truffles, chestnuts, or sausage meat. Boil it in a clean floured cloth; throw some salt into the water in which it is boiled. Cover close, and simmer for two hours, remove the scum frequently. White sauce, or parsley and butter, the latter is now scarcely ever brought to table. _ K 130 POULTRY. 385. TURKEY WITH SAUSAGE MEAT AND TONGUE. Bone the turkey, then fill the inside with sausage meat, with or without tongue, if with tongue the tongue should be boiled the day before, cut off the root and tip to the length of the turkey, if you have a fowl to spare, wrap the tongue in this after it is boned, and place it in the middle of the turkey surrounded with sausage meat, introduce truffles if you like; if roasted, a slow fire, and it will take a long time to roast through; if for boiling, cover it with fat bacon and slices of lemon tied in a cloth, pour whatever sauce you propose over the turkey. 386.—TURKEY HASHED. Cut up the remains of a roasted turkey, put it into a stewpan with half a gill of sherry wine, shalots, truffles, mushrooms, chopped parsley, salt, pepper, two spoonfuls of cullis, and a little stock; boil half an hour, and reduce to a thick sauce. When ready add a pound of anchovies ; and a squeeze of lemon. Skim the sauce free from fat, and serve altogether. 387. FORCED TURKEY OR FOWL. Take all the bones from the turkey, fill it in again with either good sausage meat or veal forcemeat, with or without truffles as may be required, braise it in a cloth keeping it a good shape; when done glaze the breast a good colour, use silver skewers to ornament with, and any of the sauces named or a fricandeau sauce under it. 388. FORCED TURKEY WITH A TONGUE. Boil a tongue the day before, take off the skin, and cut off the root, then place it in the middle of the boned turkey, and then cover forcemeat all round it, but do not fill it too full or it will burst in boiling. 389.—TURKEY LEGS BROILED. Braise some undressed legs of turkey until tender, dip them in melted butter, or clear salad oil; broil them a fine brown colour, and serve with a rimoulade sauce. 390.—TURKEY A LA ROYALE. Make a mince with tongue, ham, mushrooms, and truffles; put it into a Spanish or brown sauce. The turkey being roasted, dish it, add a little lemon juice to the mince, which pour into the dish, and serve. 391.—TURKEY POULT Should be roasted without stuffing.it will be done with a clear fire in twenty minutes. Serve with bread or gravy sauce. POULTRY. 131 892.— TURKEY GIBLETS A LA BOURGEOIBE. The giblets consist of pinions, feet, neck, liver, and gizzard; scald, and put them into a stewpan with a piece of butter, parsley, scallions, garlic, thyme, bay leaf, basil, mushrooms, and a clove or two; moisten with stock, season with pepper and salt, make it well hot, thicken with a little flour, and when almost done add a few turnips fried slightly in a little butter. 393.—TO ROASTA GOOSE. Goose in itself is of a strong rich flavour, and requires both nicety in the cooking as well as in the stuffing to obviate that strength of flavour. There are many modes of stuffing; for one mode, take two moderate sized onions and boil them rapidly ten minutes, then chop them finely, mince sage to the quantity of half the onion, add of powdered bread twice as much as of onion, pepper and salt it, intro- ducing a little cayenne, and then bind it with the beaten yolk of au egg. Potatoes mashed are sometimes introduced, but not frequently into the body, they should be mashed with floury potatoes mixed with cream and a little fresh butter rather highly seasoned with cayeniw and salt. Both ends of the goose should be secured when trussed that the seasoning may not escape. It should be roasted before a quick fire and kept constantly basted; a piece of white paper may be placed over the breast while roasting until it rises, and then it may be removed; it will take from an hour and a half to an hour and three quarters, serve with a rich brown gravy and apple sauce. Previous to sending to table, a flavouring may be made as follows, to a dessert-spoonful of made mustard add a quarter of a teaspoonful of cayenne pepper, about the same quantity of salt, mix it evenly with a glass of port wine and two glasses of rich gravy, make it hot, cut a slit in the apron of the goose, and pour it through just previously to serving. 394. A GREEK GOOSE Is seldom or never stuffed; the inside may be well peppered and salted, and it should be roasted before it brisk fire about three quarters of an hour; it should be sent to table with no other ac- companiment than a good brown gravy and apple or sorrel sauce. 395.—GREEN GOOSE, OR YOUNGAND OLD GEESE. Ducklings and green geese are roasted without any stuffing, but a goose requires stuffing; boil some sage, and some onions, and some apples, chop all fine together, a little pepper, and salt, a little mus- tard, juice of lemon, a few bread crumbs, bind all together with a little good stock, or milk, or butter; apple sauce in a boat. 390.—TO ROAST DfCKS. Ducks should be well plucked without tearing the skin, all the K 2 132 POULTRY. plugs being removed. Some cooks go so far as to skin the duck, holding it a minute by the feet in scalding water, that the skin may peel easier; clean the insides thoroughly with a little warm water, and stuff them with the same stuffing as for goose, using perhaps a little more bread for the sake of mildness, roast them before a brisk fire, but not too close, baste very frequently, they will take from half an hour to an hour, much depends on the age and size, when the breast plumps they will be just done; serve them with a rich brown gravy. 397.—TO BOIL DUCK8. Clean and pluck them, let the skin be preserved from rents while plucking, salt them for about thirty hours previous to cooking, flour a clean white cloth and boil them in it, a moderate sized duck will take about an hour's boiling, make a rich onion sauce with milk, and send it to table with the duck. When the duck is boiled fresh it may be stuffed as for roasting, and served with the same description of gravy, 398. TO STEW DUCKS. There is a difference between a stewed duck and stewed duck, and it is not the a alone; in the one case the duck is stewed whole, and in the other in pieces. To stew a duck or ducks, they should be stuffed and roasted for twenty minutes, and then placed in a stewpan with an onion cut in slices, a little sage and mint, and sweet herbs chopped fine, and about a pint of good beef gravy, seasoned with pepper and salt, let it stew gently for about twenty minutes, take out the duck carefully and keep it warm, strain the gravy, pour it into a clean stewpan, and add to it when well heated the duck and a quart of green peas, let it simmer for half an hour, if not sufficiently thick add a little flour and butter, a glass of good old port wine, and send to table, with the peas in the same dish as the duck. 399.—STEWED DUCK. The ducks should be cut into joints and laid in a stewpan with a pint of good gravy, let it come to a boil, as the scum rises remove it: season with salt and cayenne, let them stew gently three quarters of an hour, mix smoothly two tea-spoonfuls of fine ground rice, with a glass of port, stir it into the gravy, let it have seven or eight minutes to amalgamate with the gravy, dish and send to table very hot. 400.—TO HASH DUCKS. The same receipt may be followed as for hashing fowl and game, with the exception that it will not require so much time to stew. 401.—WILD DUCKS, OR TEAL. You must be very particular in not roasting these birds too much; POULTRY. 133 a duck about fifteen minutes with a good fire, baste them very fre- quently; teal will of course take less time, but your fire and motion of the spit must be attended to, and when you dish it, unless pre- ferred to be done by the gentleman at the table, draw your knife four times down the breast; have ready a little hot butter, and juice of a lemon, cayenne pepper, a little dust of sugar, a glass of port wine, pour it all hot, the last minute, over your ducks; the remainder left of those birds the next day makes excellent salmi or hash, taking care of all the gravy that may remain. 402.—WILD DUCKS. These birds require clean plucking and clean washing, which may be done by pouring warm water through the body after it has been drawn ; half an hour before a brisk fire will suffice to roast them, and stuffing is not required. When it is sent to table the breast should be sliced, and a lemon squeezed over it, the slices of the breast and the wings are the only parts really worth eating to a sensitive palate, the strong flavour of the bird rendering it a dish only for those with peculiar tastes. 403.—BOAST FOWLS. If nicely trussed, make a stuffing of butter and some pepper, dry. up the butter with a few bread crumbs, baste it well, add flo|fr and salt before you take it from the fire. If approved of, stuff the fowl with some good sausage-meat, truffles, or chesnuts. 404. ROAST FOWL. Clean the fowl thoroughly, roast it twenty minutes, unless a very fine one, and then it will take three quarters of an hour; serve with bread sauce, or parsley and butter, egg sauce is sometimes sent to table with it. If a small lump of salt butter, well covered with black pepper, is placed within the fowl previous to roasting, it will be found to improve the fowl by removing the dryness which is met with in the back and side bones. 405.—BOILED FOWLS. Flour a white cloth, and put the fowls in cold water, let them simmer for three quarters of an hour, serve with parsley and butter, or oyster or celery sauce. The fowls may be covered with a white sauce if sent cold to table, garnished with coloured calf' s foot jelly of the hue of beetroot. 406.—COLD FOWLS. When, for the purpose of convenience, fowls are sent to table cold, it is much better to carve them in the kitchen, let it be done with a 134 POULTRY. short knife and with precision, the slices from the breast should be well cut, and the whole arranged tastefully in the centre of the dish, a layer of ham and tongue in alternate pieces may be laid round the dish, and slices of both in small dishes should accompany it to table; handsome sprigs of parsley may garnish each dish. -407.—BOWLS WITH TRUFFLES. Remove the skin from a plump young fowl, bone it carefully, then slice some green truffles, season them with pepper,*salt. and mace, to taste, and stuff the fowl with them, tying it up tightly. Cut into slices some fat bacon, place them in layers over the fowl, and upon each slice of bacon lay a thin slice of lemon, from which the rind has been removed. Put the whole into a stewpan, with an onion stuck with two or three cloves, and a carrot, covering the whole with water, let it stew very gently for an hour and a half, strain, add a cupful of good rich gravy with a spoonful of Harvey's or mushroom sauce, let it simmer half an hour, and serve with the fowl in the sauce. '408. FOWL BEOILED. Separate the back of the fowl and lay the two sides open, skewer the wings as for roasting, season well with pepper and salt, and broil; send to table with the inside of the fowl to the surface of the dish, serve mushroom sauce; it is an admirable breakfast dish when a journey is to be performed. 409.—FOWL, ETC., HASHED. This receipt will serve for any but the very larger species of poultry or game; joint them and cut a cutlet from each side of the breast, if it has not been eaten when previously dressed, break the bones of the body and put all into a stewpan with a pint of water, a small faggot of sweet herbs, one carrot sliced, and an onion; let it stew an hour and three quarters, or two hours, skim the fat from the gravy as it rises, strain it, skim again, and pour it into another stew- pan, thicken with a little butter and flour, flavour with Harvey's sauce, or any sauce applicable to such a dish, a little pepper and salt, and ground nutmeg, or mace for seasoning; add the fowl and heat it thoroughly through without permitting the hash to come to a boil. Sippets of toasted or fried bread cut in dice surround the dish, in the centre of which the fowl is handsomely laid. 410.—TO GRILL COLD FOWLS. Trim the joints that remain, and having dipped them in" clarified butter, spread over them a coating of finely powdered bread crumbs, mixed with very finely ground nutmeg, mace, cayenne, and salt in small quantities, lay them upon a clean gridiron over a clear fire, broil gently. POULTRY. 135 411.— GUINEA FOWL, BOASTED. This bird has very much the flavour of a pheasant, and should be allowed to hang as long as it can without being too far gone'; it may be then trussed and dressed as a pheasant or as a turkey. Serve with a rich brown gravy and bread sauce; it will take from forty-five to fifty minutes. 412. FRICASSEE OF FOWL. The fowl must be rather better than parboiled; this is done best by placing it in a jar instead of immediately into the water, in the jar should be put a small lump of butter rolled in flour, parsley, an onion sliced, and a little salt; the jar and its ingredients should be placed in a saucepan, and when the fowl is three parts done it should be taken out, drained, and dried with a cloth, and the liquor strained and skimmed; place it in a stewpan with two slices of ham of moderate thickness, add a little butter and flour to colour; the liquor from the jar will serve to moisten it; add a few mushrooms, chopped parsley, a handful of spring onions cut small, sorrel, a bay leaf, a clove, and a little seasoning, let it stew, occasionally skimming it until done, take away the herbs, thicken the sauce with cream, squeeze in lemon juice, pour the sauce over the fowl when dished. Be careful that it does not boil while stewing, or the fowl will be spoiled. 413. MADE DISHES OF POULTRY, FOWL A LA PROVENCAL. Partly roast the fowl, cut it up, detaching the wings and legs, carefully dividing side bones, neck bones, breast, and back in as handsome pieces as possible; take eight or ten large onions, which cut in slices of moderate thickness, make in a stewpan a layer of the sliced onion with some chopped parsley, then lay upon it some of the fowl, again a layer of the onion and parsley until the whole of the fowl and onion are used; place in two bay leaves and about as much salt as would fill a large tea-spoon, four table-spoonfuls of olive oil, or, if that is not to the palate, substitute cream; it should simmer gently until enough, and then be dished, the onion in the middle; serve with a little sauce. 414.—FOWL A LA BECHAMEL. If you have had a roast capon for the second course the day before, and only a little cut from the breast, take a sharp knife and cut through the breast bone down nearly to the rump, left of the breast, take off the skin and cut it up as you would for pulled fowl; have ready in a stewpan a little good white sauce, chopped parsley, and shallot, a little piece of mushroom chopped, boil all this together, keeping it quite thick, scrape out anything remaining in the inside of the fowl, after season the emincet with lemon juice, salt, and cayenne pepper, fill in the fowl imitating a whole fowl, cover it with bread 136 POULTRY. crumbs, sprinkle clarified butter all over the bread crumbs, butter paper and tie round the fowl, put it into the oven to brown the top and get hot through, when done a light brown take off the paper, and put it into your dish with a good sauce under it. [615.—AN INDIAN PILAU. Truss a fowl as for boiling, pass it a few minutes in the oven, raising it up with fat bacon or buttered paper; fry some onions, a few bruised coriander seeds, and a few cardamom seeds, whole, fry a nice light colour four onions cut in slices, add to this a gill or more of cream, when all fried in a little butter; put in your fowl with some good veal stock, have ready some rice boiled in milk for two minutes, skim it off and add it to the fowl, frequently looking at it and moving it to keep it from sticking or burning, let your fowl stew for a quarter of an hour before you add the rice, do not let the rice get mashed; season with cayenne pepper and salt, put all the rice and liquor round the fowl: you can use rabbits, or chickens, or quails, or veal, instead of fowl, the same way. 416. GRAVY FOR A FOWL WHEN THERE IS NO MEAT TO MAKE IT OF. Nicely wash the feet of a fowl, and cut them and the neck into small pieces, simmer them with a little browned bread, a slice of onions, a bit of parsley, and thyme, some pepper, and salt, and the liver and gizzard in a quarter of a pint of water, simmer them till they are reduced to a half; take out the liver, bruise it, and strain the liquor to it, then thicken it with flour, and butter, and add a tea-spoonful of mushroom ketchup. 417.—BLANC. A mixture of salt, butter, water, and a slice of lemon, and as follows:—cut a pound of beef suet, also a pound of fat bacon, into slices, half a pound of butter, the juice of a lemon, salt, and pepper, one' or two onions, a bunch of parsley, a little thyme, bay leaf, and spice. When stewed enough, it should be strained through a tammy or hair sieve. If used for a fowl, the latter must simmer in it about thirty-five minutes. 418.— BLANC. Take half a pound of beef fat, half a pound of bacon, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, two carrots, two onions cut in half, a bunch of sweet herbs, a few bay-leaves, the juice of a lemon, some salt, whole pepper, and two glasses of stock, and boil the whole for some time, it will be then fit for use. 419.—CHICKENS BOILED. Care should be taken to select the chickens plump or they'form'a POULTRY. 137 meagre dish, they should receive much attention in the boiling, they require less time than a fowl, and are sent to table with white sauce, and garnished with tufts of white broccoli. 420. CHICKENS PULLED. Remove the skin carefully from a cold chicken, then pull the flesh from the bones, preserving it as whole as you can. Flour them well, fry them a nice brown in fresh butter; draw them, and stew in a good gravy well seasoned; thicken a short time before serving with flour and butter, and add the juice of half a lemon. 421. CURRIED CHICKENS. Lay the pieces of a dressed chicken into a stewpan with a sliced onion fried brown, a clove of garlic, and some good white gravy: simmer till the chicken is tender, add a spoonful of curry powder, flour rubbed smooth with a lump of butter; a quarter of a pint of cream, with a little salt, may be added twenty minutes before serving: squeeze a little lemon into the dish, and put an edging of rice round the dish. 422. TO BRAISE CHICKENS. Bone the chickens, stuff them with forcemeat, place in the stewpan the bones and trimmings, lay the chickens upon them with a braise of sweet herbs, onions, mace whole, some thin slices of bacon, about three parts of a pint of stock, or, if that is not handy, water, two glasses of sherry, the bacon should be added last. Cover close, and stew for two hours. Then take out the chickens, strain the braise, remove the fat, and boil the braise rapidly to a glaze, paint it over the chickens with a brush while the braise is being boiled; brown the chickens before the fire, it adds to their appearance. When glazed, fowls may be braised in the same manner. 423. CUTLETS OF CHICKEN. Remove the skin of two or three chickens. Bone all the joints except the wings, unless the fowl is very fleshy, and then remove them also, removing likewise breast bones; flatten the flesh, and spread over them a seasoning of salt, cayenne, grated nutmeg, and mace, the salt being in the greatest proportion. Coat them with beaten egg and bread crumbs, fry them a nice brown. Have ready some good brown gravy seasoned and flavoured with lemon pickle. Lay the cutlets in the centre of the dish, and pour the gravy over them. 424. FRIED CHICKEN A LA MALABAR. The Indian receipts for carving chicken are very numerous, we •elect the following. Cut up the fowl as for a stew, removing the 138 POULTRY. joints carefully and carving the body into handsome shapes, remove all moisture with a clean dry cloth, and powder every part with currv, to which half a tea-spoonful of curry has been added, fry it in fresh butter a pale brown, cut into small pieces two or three onions, and fry in clear butter, sufficient to keep the pan from burning, be very particular respecting that, but not more than should be absorbed by the onion after some time frying. It is as well here to say, that as onions are frequently used in the curried poultry by the Indian cooks, they employ the following method. When to be cut small they slice the onions and then separate them into rings, cutting these rings into the sizes they may require, which, if a little more labour, yet presents a better appearance; when they are fried sufficiently to have absorbed the grease in the pan without in any degree having been burned, spread them over the chicken and serve; a whole lemon should be sent to table with them. 425. PIGEONS ROASTED. Veal stuffing for pigeons; it improves the flavour; they must be fresh and well cleaned; butter and parsley may be served with them, but parsley alone as a stuffing, though frequently used, is by no means be palatable as the veal stuffing, or one made with veal, the fat of bacon, and the crumb of bread soaked in milk and well seasoned. They are sometimes stuffed with truffles, or chestnut and bacon as turkey, covered with thin slices of fat bacon enwrapped in vine leaves instead of paper. They receive a fine flavour, but are they worth so much trouble? 426. BOASTED PIGEONS. Let your pigeons be picked clean and washed, then stuff the whole inside of the pigeon with fine veal stuffing if preferred, if not, merely a few bread crumbs and parsley, pepper and salt. 427.—pigeons—broiled. Split the backs, season them highly, lay them over a clear brisk fire, serve with mushroom sauce. 429.—pigeons as woodcocks. Toast some bread as for woodcocks, butter it, and drop a few drops of essence of anchovies on the butter, spread it all over the toast, then put the toast under the pigeons while roasting. 429.—pigeons stewed. Take a white cabbage, cut it as for pickling, rince it in clear cold water, drain it well, put it into a saucepan with equal quantities of milk and water, boil it, strain off the milk and take a portion of the cabbage and lay it in a stewpan; soak the pigeons for half an hoar in POULTRY. 139 cold milk and water, season them well with salt and pepper, adding a little cayenne; place them in the stewpau with the cabbage, cover them over with what remains, add some white broth, stew slowly until the pigeons are tender, thicken with a little cream, flour, and butter, let it boil, and serve up the pigeon with a puree of the cabbage. 430. PIGEONS—LAUDED AND BRAISED. They require some skill as well as trouble, but they may be dressed exactly in the same manner as chickens, glaze them, and send them to table with mushroom sauce. 431. FILLETS OF PIGEONS. To each fillet leave the wing bone on, flatten them with your beater, you can take the bone out of the leg, take off the skin, and form them the shape of the fillets, and use them between, or leave the skin on, and fill in the leg with a little forcemeat, then saute them off, take them up, and press them until cold; you can dish those alternately with your fillets or cutlets, if you wish cutlets, you must bread crumb them, as you will find veal cutlets are done, if garnish and ornamental work is liked, put a small cut truffle on the bone of each cutlet, and where there is no bone put a little skewer in for a bone. 432.—comi'6te of pigeons. Blanch four pigeons, then stuff them, place them in a stewpan, put in an onion, a slice of lemon, and a small handful of mushrooms, lay over them slices of fat bacon, add half a pint of good gravy, and stew gently until the pigeons are tender; take them out of the gravy, and keep them hot, strain off the gravy, skim it clear, then thicken with half a spoonful of flour, and a lump of butter, the size of a small walnut; season with salt, pepper, and a little cayenne, a few forcemeat balls may be added at pleasure, pour half into the dish with the pigeons, and serve the remainder in a tureen. 433. PIGEONS IN JELI.T. Make some jelly of calf's foot, or if you have the liquor in which a knuckle of veal has been boiled, it will answer the same purpose; place it in a stewpan with a bunch of sweet herbs, a blade of mace, white pepper, a slice of lean bacon, some lemon peel, and the pigeons, which, being trussed and their necks propped up to make them appear natural, season to your palate. Bake them; when they are done, remove them from the liquor, but keep them covered close, that their colour may be preserved. Remove the fat, boil the whites of a couple of eggs with the jelly to clear it, and strain it; this is usually done by dipping a cloth into boiling water, and straining it through it, as it prevents anything like scum or dirt sweeping through the (trainer. Put the jelly rough over and round the pigeons. 140 POULTRY. 434,—PIGEONS OR ANY BIRD IN ASPIC JEIXV. Get three pigeons, take out the bones, leaving on the neck and head, fill the birds with some forcemeat, making them the shape of the bird, cover them with fat bacon, put them on a dish, place them in the oven until done, take them out to get cold, have ready some very light coloured aspic jelly, either chop your jelly round them on the dish or in a mould, if in a mould place the breast downwards, let the jelly be quite cold and beginning to set before you pour it in, but if you intend to ornament your mould do it with green, red, and white devices, with what may then be in season; radishes, whites of hard eggs, cucumbers, French beans, truffles, and any other eatable and wholesome thing, never use any thing that is injurious to health; set it to get stiff, turn out with warm water. 435.—TO POT PIGEONS. Season them well with pepper, cayenne, a little mace, and salt, pack them closely in a pan, cover them with butter/and bake them; let them get cold, then take off the fat, put the pigeons into pots, pour melted butter over them. 436.—WOOD PIGEONS May be dressed exactly as tame pigeons, save that they require rather less time in the cooking, and the gravy or sauces should be richer and of a higher flavour. 437.—CHESTNUT STUFFING FOR PIGEONS. Blanch some chestnuts, then pound them in a mortar with a small quantity of scraped fat bacon, a dust of sugar, pepper, and salt, and a few bread crumbs, then stuff the pigeons, covering them with vine leaves. 438.—I.ARKS. Be very particular in roasting these birds; melt a little butter, add to it a yolk of egg, and with your paste brush egg all over them, and then bread crumb them, while roasting frequently baste them and flour them, and before you take them up flour and salt them; send them up with some brown bread crumbs. 439.—LARKS. These nice little birds are in season in November; when they are cleaned, gutted, and picked, truss them, then do them over with yolk of egg, and then roll them in bread crumbs, spit them on a lark spit, and then fasten them on to a larger one; ten or fifteen minutes are enough to roast them in before a quick fire. Whilst they are roasting baste them with fresh butter, and sprinkle them with bread crumbs POULTRY. 141 till they are well covered with them, fry some grated bread in butter. set it to drain before the fire that it may harden, serve the crumbs in the dish under the larks, and garnish with slices of lemon. 440. LABKS—TO BOAST. Lard and cover them with bacon, or you may only cover one half with bacon and lard the other, roast them, leave under them toasted bread to receive all that falls, leave in the trails for a side dish, they may be served up a variety of ways. 441.—WHEATEARS. You will dress these the same as larks, taking about fifteen minutes to roast. 142 GAME, ETC. CHAPTER IX. GAME, ETC. 442. VENISOX THF HATTNCH. "The observed of all observers," when venison Epicureans sit at table; it is a joint, if properly kept, properly cooked, and served hot, which must prove delicious to the palate. It should always hang a considerable length of time, the delicacy of its flavour is obtained by hanging only, if it be cooked while fresh, it will not equal in any respect a haunch of mutton. The haunch of venison, when about to be roasted, should be washed in warm milk and water, and dried with a clean cloth; if it has hung very long and the skin smells musty, it will be the safest plan to remove the skin and wrap the whole of the haunch in paper well greased with fresh butter; during the time it is at the fire, do GAME, ETC. 143 not be afraid of basting it too much, it will require all the cook is likely to give it; if it be a buck haunch and large it will take nearly four hours within five or ten minutes; if comparatively small, three hours and a half will suffice; if a doe haunch, three hours and a quarter will be enough. Remove the paper when it is done enough, dredge quickly with flour to produce a froth. Dish it and serve, let there be nothing with it in the dish; but the gravy should be sent to table in its proper dish, accompanied by currant jelly. The haunch is not uufrequently roasted in a paste, which in its turn is enclosed in paper, removed when the joint is nearly cooked. The above is the simplest and not the least palatable mode of sending it to table. 448.—TO DRESS VENISON. All venison for roasting should have a paste made of lard over it; after first having papered the meat with buttered paper, then your stiff paste upon the top of that, either dangle it or put it in a cradle spit; a few minutes before you require to take it up take off the paste and paper, baste it with some butter, salt it and flour it, when done give it a few more turns round, send it up very hot; your dish and gravy to be very hot also; any dry pieces and the shank you will boil down with a little brown stock for the gravy; send currant jelly in a boat, and French beans in a vegetable dish. 444. TO HASH VENISON. Carve your venison into slices, let them be thin, and put them in a stewpan with two small glasses of port wine, add a spoonful of browning, one of ketchup, an onion stuck with cloves, and half an an- chovy chopped small, let it boil, then put in your venison, make it thoroughly hot through. Lay sippets of toast, in various shapes in a soup dish, pour the hash upon it, and serve with currant jelly. 445. HASHED VENISON. Cut and trim some nice thin slices of venison, fat and lean, have a nice brown sauce made from the bones in scrag of the venison, put the meat you have cut into this sauce with the gravy that has run from the venison, and a glass of port wine. Cut up some of the fat into pieces an inch thick, put the fat in a stewpan, and some hot stock upon them; when you have dished up your hash, which should be in R hot water dish with a holey spoon, take out the fat, *nd sprinkle it all over the hash; send up currant jelly. 446.—A SHOULDER OF VENISON—STEWED. If you should have a very lean shoulder stew it in preference to roasting; bone it, cover it with slices of mutton fat, which sometimes are first steeped in port to give a richer flavour, roll it up and bind it tightly. Lay it in a stewpan with a quantity of beef gravy, and the 144 GAME, ETC. bones you have taken from the venison, add two glasses of port, a dessert-spoonful of whole pepper, and the same quantity of all-spice. Cover down closely, and simmer until the venison is tender, take it out and remove the fat, thicken the gravy with flour and butter, and strain it over the meat. 447. NECK AND SHOULDER OF VENISON. These joints, or as together they may be termed the haunch joint, may be dressed exactly like the haunch, covered with a thin paste, and greased paper over that, it will take two hours and a half, or very large, three hours; it should be served up with venison sauce. 448. TO DRESSA FAWN ORKID. They should be dressed as quickly after being killed as it is con- venient. If they are full grown they should be roasted in quarters, but if very young may be dressed, trussed, and stuffed exactly as a hare; the quarters will be improved in flavour when the fawn is full grown, if they are covered with fat bacon, and basted as venison; serve venison sauce with it. 449.—PHEASANTS. Pheasants are rarely stuffed, it is more customary to send them to table accompanied by forcemeat in the dish, in many cases with the simple gravy only; the real Epicurean in game prefers the flavour of the bird uncontaminated by any accessories save those which just assist to remove the dryness common to most game. Pheasants are sometimes larded, but as the flavour is entirely disguised by the taste of the bacon, incorporated with the flesh of the fowl, unless it is done more for appearance than palate, we would not advise it. In dressing the pheasant it should be drawn and cleaned as other game and trussed, should be roasted before a clear, not a fierce fire, and will take forty minutes, it must not be done too much, but must not on any account be sent to table underdone. 450.—PHEASANTS May be, and are oftener, plain roasted than not, but very frequently larded, and if two are served in a dish, have one larded; but when stuffed, by some, larding is most approved. Mince very [fine some raw veal with a small quantity of fat bacon with a few bread crumbs, pepper and salt, with this stuff your birds, baste frequently, and flour and salt them before you take them up. To any game of this kind you may introduce either chestnut staff- ing or truffles, the truffles only to be cut in slices or put in whole. 451.—PHEASANT—BOILED. The pheasant should be stuffed with veal stuffing, and trussed in GAME, ETC. 14.J the same manner in which a turkey is for boiling. It should be put into hot water, and should be boiled from fifty minutes to an hour. The same sauces recommended for a boiled turkey, will also be suit- able for a boiled pheasant. 452. BLACK COCK BOASTED. The birds should be hung until very high, they should be carefully plucked that the skin may be as little abrased as possible, drawn, washed, and wiped with a clean cloth; truss as pheasants, baste with butter, roast forty to fifty minutes, serve on a toast; brown gravy may be sent to table withthem. Grey hen is cooked in the same manner. 453. PARTRIDGES Are cooked as pheasants; they should not be stuffed, grate bread crumbs into a shallow dish, place them before the fire to brown, shaking them occasionally and send them to table with the birds; partridges may be stuffed with truffles and bacon. 454.—PARTRIDGES. Roast as before, not forgetting to baste them frequently; and, if required, stuff them with any of the former farces, but you may at all times use bacon and vine leaves on the breasts. 465. rARTRIDGE BOILED, Should be treated as boiled pheasant, stuffed, trussed,put into boiling water, and if a small one will be done in ten minutes, if large a quar- ter of an hour. Black partridges are considered most fit to boil. 456. PARTRIDGE BROILED. Let the partridge hang until longer would make it offensive, split it, and take a soft clean cloth and remove all the moisture inside and out; lay it upon a gridiron over a very clear fire; spread a little salt and cayenne over it. When it is done, which will be in twenty minutes,rub a little butter over it, and send it to table with mush- room sauce. 457 PARTRIDGES STEWED. Partridges are differently trussed for stewing to what they are for roasting, the wings are fixed over the back, and the legs skewered. Take a piece of bacon, and put it with a small piece of butter in a stewpan; fry it brown, put in the partridges so that the bacon covers the breast, let them be very brown: add half a pint of gravy. Boil a cabbage, so that it is ready by the time the partridges are fried brown, chop it with pepper and salt, and a lump of butter. Add it L 146 GAME, ETC. with the gravy to the partridges, stew slowly for an hour; when dishing, place the bacon in the centre of the dish, lay the partridges upon it, and make a wall of the cabbage round. While stewing, turn the partridges often. 458.—GROUSE, OK MOOR GAME. You may use bacon on the breast. Dish them on fried or toasted bread well buttered, if toast, bread sauce in a boat. -159. TO K0A8T GROUSE. Dress the hirds as above, serve on a toast, they will require twenty minutes less than black cock in roasting. When they are sent to table without the toast, serve with fried bread crumbs and bread sauce, or brown gravy instead of the^bread crumbs. 460.—HARES. A hare is nothing if not well hung and well cooked; a hare must be hung very long indeed to be hung too long. It is better for not being punched for a few days, unless the weather is warm and muggy, in no case is it advisable to paunch it when first killed. Keep the inside wiped dry and well peppered. If the hare is very old soak it a couple of hours in water and vinegar, then wash it in clean luke- warm water to take away the acid flavour which might be communi- cated by the vinegar, put in the belly plenty of stuffing, well seasoned; hang the hare some distance from the fire, it should be roasted gra- dually, because, being of a very dry and hard nature, it requires being thoroughly done, and yet not dried up. It should be sent to table with a good gravy in the dish, or melted butter, in both cases gravy should accompany it when served, and also Currant jelly. The stuffing is composed of the liver, scalded and minced, sweet herbs, parsley, broad crumbs, and suet, seasoned to the taste. 461. STUFFING FOR A HARE. After having either scraped or scalded the liver, scrape some fat bacon, a little suet, some parsley, thyme, knotted-marjoram, a little shallot, a few crumbs of bread, pepper and salt, a few grains of nut- meg, beat it all well in a mortar with one egg, if your hare is boned it will take more. You can dress a boned hare two ways, either taking each bone out but the head, and the point of the tail, but this will not keep so good a shape as if you only took out the back and rib bones, leaving the shoulders and legs on; this way, when stuffed, will keep its shape best. 462.—JUGGED HABE. Mrs. Glass has made the oft-quoted remark, "first catch your GAME, ETC. 147 hare;" I say, only, as hares are easily procurable, that if an old large hare be obtained, so much the better. When thoroughly cleaned, cut it in pieces, not losing any blood that may appear, place them in the bottom of a jar with sweet herbs, an onion, and a little water, cover the top of the jar down close, so that the steam cannot escape freely, place it in a vessel of boiling water, leaving the mouth of the jar uncovered by the water, which must not be suffered to stop boiling, stew four hours, remove whatever fat may have accumu- lated, thicken with flour and butter, flavour with a glass of Port wine. 463.—JUGGED HAKE. If the hare has not been completely roasted it will be the better for the jugging, cut it into joints, and with a seasoning composed of salt, pepper, cayenne, a little ground allspice, and a little mace. Coat all the pieces well, lay them in a stone jar, put in the rind of a lemon cut thin, a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion stuck with four or five cloves, twelve or fourteen ounces of gravy beef, and the bones of the body of the hare, the last of all pour in three parts of a pint of water, two glasses of good old port wine, and tie over the neck of the jar closely. Put it up to the neck of the jar into a saucepan of boiling water, keep the water boiling, and be careful it does not stop boiling for three hours, at the expiration of that time take it out of the water, strain off the gravy, clear all the fat off carefully, thicken it, and serve it very hot in a deep dish. The jar may be baked in an oven instead of being put in boiling water, in that case in an hour and a half it may be taken out, and the gravy strained off. In some parts of the country ale is put into the jar instead of water, and two or three slices of lean bacon. Where that is done it is usual to cut a few slices of bacon thin, and toast them before a brisk fire, and lay them curled around^ the sides of the dish when it is served. 464. ANOTHERWAY. Cut up the hare as above, lay the pieces in a stewpan, put in a few cloves, allspice (whole), two onions, the rind of half a lemon, a faggot of sweet herbs, some salt, black pepper, and cayenne, pour in enough cold water to cover it. Let it come to a boil, skim it, and let it simmer until the hare becomes tender, strain off the gravy, thicken it, pour in a glass of port wine, and having laid the hare in a deep dish, pour the gravy over it and serve. A few forcemeat balls may be put in the dish with it. 465. HASHED HABE. Cut up the hare into small pieces, season it well, flour it, put it into a good gravy, all that may be left from that which was sent to L 2 148 GAME, ETC. table with it when roasted, put in the stuffing, let it simmer half an hour, thicken the gravy, add a glass of old port, and Berve. 466. FILLETS OF HARE. Take off the fillets close to the bone, cut off the back skin; if to be marinaded, lay them all night in a good marinade, see Beef a la Man uade; if not, flatten them, and lard them with bacon, and braise them; serve with any sauce most preferred; the legs and shoulders will make u leveret of hare jugged hare. 467. SENIT OF HAEE. The remainder of a hare left from a former day, cut it up in nice, even, and small pieces; the turnips boiled down for stock, with a faggot of herbs, a blade of mace, three or four cloves, a piece of lean bacon or ham, when you have got all the flavour out strain it through a sieve into another stewpan, put in your pieces you have trimmed with twelve button onions pared, and a little port wine; boil half an hour gently, then thicken it, make a rim three inches high of rolled pie paste into a shape, bake it in the dish in a slow oven, egg it dust; put, when required, the ham and sauce into the rim. 468. HARES AND LIVERETS. Be sure your hare has been killed some time, unless a coursed one, which will be more tender, stuff it with a good veal stuffing, do not forget to scrape the liver and add it to the stuffing, a slow fire will "lo it, Baste it frequently, or add fat bacon all over the back, well floured, and a little salt the last thing, pour good gravy and melted butter in the dish, and burnt jelly in the boat. 469. HARE—POTTED. Cut it up in pieces, sufficiently small to go into a jar, put in several slices of butter, bake it, and when1 quite tender, take it out; cover it with plenty of seasoning, composed of cayenne, salt, all- spice, and mace; heat it well in a mortar with fresh butter and some gravy, lay it into pots and cover it with clarified butter. THE ORTOLAN. The Ortolan is essentially a pet bird with the gourmet. The present is by no means an inopportune moment for sketching the natural economy and cuisine of these " lumps of celestial fatness," as ^hey.have been fondly called by epicures. The Ortolan is a species of Fringillida: it is the Hortularua of Gesner and others; Miliaria pinguescens of Frisch; £tnberira hortulana of Linnaeus ; Ortolano of the Italians generally; Tordino berluccio of the Venetians; Garten Ammer and Feltamer of the Germans; and Gerste Kneu of the Netherlanders. Willoughby writes the name Hortulane; and Montague terms it. the Greenheaded Bunting. GAME, ETC. 140 The French have a fanciful derivation of the name: they say it is from the Italian word for gardener, which is from the Latin hortus (garden); because, according to Manage, in Italy, where the bird is common, it is quite at home in the hedges of gardens. The male bird has the throat, a circle round the eyes, and a narrow band springing from the angle of the bill, yellow; these two yellow spaces being separated by a blackish grey dash; head and neck grey, with a tinge of olive, and small brown spots; feathers of the upper parts' reddish on their edges, and black in the middle; breast, belly, and abdomen reddish bay; feathers terminating with ash-colour; tail blackish, a considerable portion of the two external feathers white on their internal barbs; bill and feet inclining to flesh-colour; iris, brown; length, rather more than six inches. The female is generally not so deep in colour as the male, and the breast, head, and neck are marked with brown spots. There are also varieties marked white, green, blackish, and entirely black. The Ortolan is not famed for its song, which is, however, soft and sweet. Like the nightingale, with which it has also other points of resemblance, the Ortolan sings after as well as before sunset; and it was this bird that Varro called his companion by night and day. Ortolans are solitary birds: they fly in pairs, rarely three together, and never in flocks. They are taken in traps, from March or April to September, when they are often poor and thin; but, if fed with plenty of millet-seed and other grain, they become sheer lumps of fat, and delicious morsels. They are fattened thus in large establish- ments in the south of Europe; and Mr. Gould states this to be effected in Italy and the south of France in a dark room. 150 GAME, ETC. The Ortolan is considered sufficiently fat when it is a handful; and is judged by feeling it, and not by appearance. They should not be killed with violence, like other birds; this might crush and bruise the delicate flesh, and spoil the coup (Tail—to avoid which, the best mode is to plunge the head of the Ortolan into a glass of brandy. Having picked the bird of its feathers, singe it with the flame of paper or spirit of wine; cot off the beak, and ends of the feet; do not draw it; put it into a paper case soaked in olive oil, and broil it over a slow fire. It will not require such a fire as would do a steak; slack cinders, like those for a pigeon a la cravaudine, being sufficient; in a few minutes the Ortolan will swim in its own fat and will be cooked. Some gourmands wrap each bird in a vine-leaf. Ortolans are packed in tin boxes for exportation. They may be bought at Morel's, in Piccadilly, for half-a-crown apiece. Mr. Fisher, of Duke-street, St. James's, imports Ortolans in considerable numbers. The south of Europe may be considered the summer and autumnal head quarters of the Ortolan, though it is a summer visitor in the central and northern parts. In Italy it is said to be common, by Temminck and others. The Prince of Musignano states it to be found in the Sabine mountains, but not commonly in the summer; and that it rarely occurs in the plains of Rome, but that it is frequent in Tuscany. Lapland, Russia, Denmark, Sweden, and Norway, are among the countries visited by it. In the British isles it seems only entitled to rank as an autumnal visitor, but it may occur more fre- quently than is generally supposed; for, especially to an unpractised eye, it might be mistaken for the yellow-hammer, and, in some states of plumage, for other buntings. It has been taken in the neigh- bourhood of London; in 1837 there was a live specimen in the aviary of the Zoological Society in the Regent's Park; and, during this year, many Ortolans were sent alive to the London market from Prussia. There is, however, some consolation for the rarity of the Ortolan in England. It is approached in delicacy by our wheat-ear, which in, for him, an unfortunate hour, was named the EnglishOrto- lan; from which period it has been pursued as a delicate morsel throughout all his island haunts. Bewick's figure was captured at sea. off the coast of Yorkshire, in May, 1822. Every spring and autumn it may be observed at Gibraltar, on its migration. Mr. Strickland saw it at Smyrna in April. North Africa is its winter residence. Colonel Sykes notes it in his Catalogue of the Birds of Dec can. A gourmand will take an Ortolan by the legs and crunch it in delicious mouthfuls, so as absolutely to lose none of it. More deli- cate feeders cut the bird in quarters, and lay aside the gizzard, which is somewhat hard; the rest may be eaten, even to the bones, which are sufficiently tender for the most delicate mouth to masticate with- out inconvenience. Notwithstanding its delicacy, the Ortolan fattens very fast; and it is this lump of fatness that is its merit, and has sometimes caused it to be preferred to the beccafico. According to Buffon, the Ortolan was known to the Greeks and Romans, who understood fattening the GAME, ETC. 151 bird upon millet; bat a lively French commentator doubts this asser- tion. He maintains that, had the ancients known the Ortolan, they would have deified it, and built altars to it upon Mount Hymettus and the Janiculum; adding, did they not deify the horse of Caligula which was certainly not worth an Ortolan? and Caligula himself, who was not worth so much as his horse? However, the dispute belongs to the " Classics of the Table." The Ortolan figures in a curious anecdote of individual epicurism in the last century. A gentleman of Gloucestershire had one son, whom he sent abroad to make the grand tour of the Continent, where he paid more attention to the cookery of nations and luxurious living than anything else. Before his return his father died, and left him a large fortune. He now looked over his note-book, to discover where the most exquisite dishes were to be had, and the best cooks obtained. Every servant in his house was a cook; his butler, footman, house- keeper, coachman, and grooms, were all cooks. He had three Italian cooks: one from Florence, another from Sienna, and a third from Viterbo—for dressing one Florentine dish! He had a messenger constantly on the road between Brittany and London, to bring the eggs of a certain sort of plover found in the former country. He was known to eat a single dinner at the expense of £50, though there were but two dishes. In nine years he found himself getting poor, and this made him melancholy. When totally ruined, having spent £150,000, a friend one day gave him a guinea to keep him from starving; and he was found in a garret next day broiling an Ortolan, for which he had paid a portion of the alms. 470. ORTOLANS TO ROAST. They should be picked and singed but not drawn, put them on skewers with bacon round them, tie them on the spit, when they are done strew over with grated bread, or they may be split sideways, with a bay leaf between, and the dish should be garnished all round with fried bread crumbs. 471. ENGLISH ORTOLANS Are also roasted without drawing, pick and singe them carefully, and when they are roasted cover with bread crumbs. They may be stuffed with forcemeat, or not, at pleasure. 47-2.—FLOVERS. These birds must not be drawn, roast them before a brisk fire, but at a distance, serve on a toast with melted butter. 473. RUFFS AND REEVES. Pick and singe them, but do not draw them, envelop them in slices of fat bacon, they will be done in ten minutes; send them to table with a rich gravy in the dish. 152 GAME, ETC. 474. WOODCOCKS AND SNIPES Should not be drawn, but have toast as for grouse under them, passing out the tail, and chop it and spread it on the bird, lay them under the heads in the dripping-pan. 475. WOODCOCKS AND SNIPES. Roast them undrawn, serve them upon a toast, and take nothing with them but butter. 476 RABBITS. You will roast the same as hares, and if required to be stuffed, melted butter, chopped parsley, and the liver chopped, pepper and salt. 477.—RABBIT. Rabbits will form excellent side dishes, providing they are boned neatly, larded, and braised, they may also be lined inside with bacon cut in thin slices, the fatter the better, and it stuffing added, which may be either the same as hare or veal. 478.—RABBITS. Fillet those the same as fillets of hare, No. 466. You may if you wish leave the fillet adhering to the leg when removed so far from the back, turn it over upon the leg, and lard with bacon or truffles that side, the bones are most excellent in your clear stock. 479. TO ROAST RABBITS. The rabbit should hang in its skin from four to five days, as the weather will permit, then skin it, make a strong seasoning of black pepper, ground allspice, cayenne, a little nutmeg, three parts of a gill of vinegar, and the same quantity of port wine. Let it remain in this pickle a day and a half, turning and rubbing it frequently; stuff it, and truss it as a hare, and serve with it the same sauce. RABBIT ISO ASTE D. Truss it with the head on, blanch the liver, heart, and kidneys, and chop them fine with a little parsley and shalot, and some pepper and salt, put it into a little gravy and butter, and boil it a little; either put the sauce in a boat or in the dish under the rabbit. 480. BOILED RABBITS. • A rabbit should boil only twenty minutes, and boil slowly; if larger than common an extra ten minutes may be allowed; it should be sent to table smothered in onion sauce, the water should be kept free from scum. It is trussed for boiling differently to what it is for roasting. GAME, ETC. 153 481. TO FRY RABBTT3. Clean and wash thoroughly, scald ten minutes, cut up into joints, coat with egg and bread crumbs, sprinkle over a little pepper and salt, fry over a clear fire, a quarter of an hour will be enough; serve with a gravy made with the liver of the rabbit, and the gravy in which the rabbit is fried, when done pour it into the dish, let it run under the rabbit. 482. DRESSED RABBIT, FROM THE DAY BEFORE. Cut it into pieces, and put them into some good white or brown sauce. 483. RABBIT WITH ONIONS.Trass your rabbit, and lay it into cold water, if for boiling pour the gravy of onions over it, if you have a white stock pot on, boil it in that. 484. RABBIT A LA FRAN9AISE. Cut it into pieces, but save the liver, take a piece of bacon, cut it in pieces, put it into a stewpan, and fry it brown; take it out, and place it in a plate; put into the stewpan a piece of butter of the size of a crown-piece, or twice the size of a walnut, and add the pieces of the rabbit; toss it well, when it begins to get brown sprinkle a little flour over it; keep turning it; as soon as the flour becomes dry whip it into a dish. Add to the sauce in the pan more butter, stir until brown, then put in a tea-cupful of water, stir well, put in the bacon, a small quantity of parsley and thyme, a bay leaf, plenty of small onions, pepper and salt, and the rabbit. Stew slowly five hours. Should the sauce decrease, add a little more water and a small lump of butter. 485. FRICASSEE WHITE OR BROWN. If a fresh rabbit, cut off the joints and the back, divide into three or four pieces then fry them; if for brown, do the meat brown; if for white, do not brown, you will likewise do the same for curries, then gently boil them in some good white stock, reducing the same liquor, then add some bechamel sauce to it, or if for brown coolie sauce, season with lemon juice, cayenne pepper, and salt, add mushrooms if you have them. 486.—TO DO A CAPON OR FOWL. Proceed precisely as in receipt, No. 388, but it will not take ?c long a time to boil. 487.—A SALMI OF GAME. This dish may be made of any cold game, or old game; if the birds have not been dressed, only half roast them, remove all skin and 154 GAME, ETC. superfluous fat, indeed all fat wherever it appears, but preserve it as it is to be used. The birds may either be cut in joints, and the body divided in half, or it may be cut into smaller pieces; lay them in a stewpan with the skin and fat you have removed from the birds, a blade of mace, a bay leaf, two eschalots sliced, a spoonful of pepper- corns, add three parts of a quart of good veal gravy, and reduce it to one pint; strain it, and afterwards remove as much of the fat floating at the top as practicable, a little more salt may be added as it requires it, and some cayenne, return the game to it, clearing out all the trimmings and seasonings, and let it gradually heat through, it must not boil; cut sippets of bread into half circles and dice, fry them in butter, lay them tastefully rouud the dish in which you purpose put- ting the hash, and then arrange the game tastefully in the centre, before the fire, thicken the gravy, put in two glasses of sherry, and pour it very hot but gently over the birds and serve. The French salmi is cooked much in the same fashion, but is more decidedly a stew or hash, ham being cooked with it, and greater pro- portions of eschalots, mace, &c. There is a larger quantity of wine added, and mushrooms are stewed in the gravy; the effect is that French is much the richer dish of the two, while the character is the the same. The salon may be made of partridges alone, or moor fowl, or black cock, or all united, but it is as well to make it with birds of high flavour. 488. CUTLETS OF FOWL AND GAME. The cutlets are of course larger from fowls, &C., than chickens, but they may be prepared in the same manner. The cutlets are usually taken from the thighs, the wings boned, and from the fleshiest part of the body. The French serve them with sippets of bread fried a light brown, and place each cutlet upon a sippet, pouring into the dish, but not over the cutlets, a rich brown gravy. SALT AND FRESH WATER PISH. 155 CHAPTER X. SALT AND FRESH WATER FISH. OBSEBVATIONS ON CLEANING AND DRESSINGFISH. Before dressing fish of any kind great care should be taken that it is well washed and cleansed, but be cautious not to wash it too much, as the flavour is much diminished by too much water. When boiling fish put a little salt and a little vinegar into the water to give the fish firmness. Be careful to let fish be well done, but not to let it break. When very fresh, cod and whiting are very much improved by keep- ing a day, and rubbing a little salt down the back-bone. Fresh-water fish often have a muddy smell and taste, which is easily got rid of by soaking it. After it has been thoroughly cleansed in strong salt and water, if the fish is not too large, scald it in the same, then dry and dress it. Put the fish in cold water, and let it boil very gently, or the out- side will break before the inside is warm. Put all crimped fish into 156 SALT AND FRESH WATER FISH. boiling water, and when it boils up some cold water should be put into it to check it and keep it simmering. All fish should be taken out of the water the instant it is done, or it will become woolly. To ascertain when it is done, the fish-plate may be drawn up, and, if done, the meat will leave the bone. To keep it hot, and to prevent it losing its colour, the fish plate should be placed across the fish- kettle, and a clean cloth put over the fish. Small fish may be nicely fried plain, or done with egg and bread crumbs, and then fried. Upon the dish on which the fish is to be served should be placed a damask napkin, folded, and upon this put the fish, with the roe and liver; then garnish the dish with horse- radish, parsley, and lemon. To broil or fry fish nicely, after it is well washed, it should be put in a cloth, and when dry, wetted with egg and bread crumbs. It will be much improved by being wetted with egg and crumbs a second time. Then have your pan with plenty of boiling dripping or lard, put your fish into it, and let it fry rather quickly till it is of a nice brown and appears done. If it is done before being nicely browned, it should be taken from the pan, placed on a sieve before the fire to drain and brown. If wanted very nice, put a sheet of cap paper to receive the fish. Should you fry your fish in oil, it obtains a much finer colour than when done in lard or dripping. Never use butter, as it makes the fish a bad colour. Garnish your dish with green or fried parsley. In broiling fish, be careful that your gridiron is clean; place it on the fire, and when hot rub it over with suet to hinder the fish from sticking. The fish must be floured and seasoned before broiling. It must be broiled over a clear fire only, and great care must be taken that it does not burn or become smoky. Broiled fish for breakfast should always be skinned, buttered, and peppered. Fish are boiled, fried, broiled, baked, stewed, in fact cooked in every imaginable fashion; those named are the chief methods. In every kind the greatest attention and cleanliness must be exercised. A broken, disfigured, abrased, or ill-cooked dish of fish presented at table, is quite sufficient to destroy the taste for it for ever ; on the contrary, when neatly done it heightens the relish which every one possesses more or less, and imparts an appetite where one may be wanting, while the cook is held in grateful remembrance. 489. A FEW CHOICE DISHES FOR TOP REHOVES, ENTREES, SALADS, ETC., COLD. Plain and crimp cod. Smelts fried. Turbot aud lobster sauce. Brill and Dutch sauce. Broiled mackerel and fennel sauce. Boiled mackerel and fennel sauce. Fried soles and shrimp sauce. SALT AND FRESH WATER FISH.157 Boiled soles and anchovy sauce. Doreys boiled and anchovy sauce. Plaice boiled and anchovy sauce. Garnet boiled, stuffed, and anchovy sauce. Garnet baked, stuffed and anchovy sauce. Pike boiled and stuffed and anchovy sauce Pike baked and stuffed and anchovy sauce. White bait fried. Salmon boiled and broiled, and lobster sauce. Salmon with capers. Salmon cutlets. Salmon in papers. Salmon in quenelles. Salmon in curry. Soles boiled and broiled, and lobster sauce. Fillets of soles,—Maitre d' hotel. Fillets of soles, bread crumbed. Fillets of veal rolled and stuffed. Fillets of soles, quenelles. Fillets of soles, curry. Fillets of whitings,—Maitre d'hotel. Fillets of whitings, bread crumbed. Fillets of whitings, boudin3. Fillets of whitings, quenelles. Fillets of whitings, curry. Fillets of mackerel,—Maitre d' hotel. Fillets of turbot,—Maitre d'hotel. Fillets of turbot oyster sauce. Slices of cod with capers. Slices of cod with oyster sauce. Slices of cod with curry. Carp stewed. Dorey stewed. Mullet stewed. Eels stewed and fried. 490.—MARINADE Is most frequently used in France for boiling fish, but is not often used in England, although it certainly gives to the fish an improved flavour. Cut three carrots and four onions in slices, put them into a stewpan with some butter, two bay leaves, a little thyme, and two cloves; set these on the fire; when the carrots and onions are done, add some parsley and shalots, a dessert-spoonful of flour, a glass of vinegar, two of stock, salt, and pepper. Simmer the marinade for three quarters of an hour, strain it through a horse hair sieve, and set it by for use. In France two bottles of vin ordinaire are added, but if the fish is large, and cut into fillets or steaks to be marinaded, a quart of table beer should be substituted for the wine. Cider is sometimes preferred to the wine or beer. 158 SALT AND FRESHWATER FISH. 491. BARBEL BOILED. Boil them in salt and water, when done pour away part of the water and add to the rest a pint of red wine, some salt and vinegar, two onions sliced, a bunch of sweet herbs, some nutmeg, mace, and the juice of a lemon, boil these well together with two or three anchovies, then put in the fish, simmer a short time, and serve it with the sauce strained over it; shrimps or oysters may be added. 492. BARBEL BROILED. Do them in white pepper with sweet herbs chopped small, and butter. 493. BARBEL STEWED. Clean and wash a large barbel, first in vinegar and then salt in the water, put it into a stewpan with eel broth, enough to cover it, add some cloves and sweet herbs, a bit of cinnamon, let them stew gently till the fish is done, then take it out and thicken the sauce with butter and flour and pour over the fish. 494.—BRILL Is cooked as a turbot in every respect, and the same sauces suffice. 495.—cod—BOILED. The thickness of this fish being very unequal, the head and shoul- ders greatly preponderating, it is seldom boiled whole, because in a large fish the tail, from its thinness in comparison to the upper part of the fish would be very much overdone. Whenever it is boiled whole, a small fish should be selected. Tie up the head and shoul- ders well, place it in the kettle with enough cold water to completely cover it; cast in a handful of salt. The fish if a small one will be cooked in twenty minutes after it has boiled, if large it will take half an hour. When enough, drain it clear of the scum, remove the string; send it to tableg arnished with the liver, the smelt, and the roe of the fish, scraped horseradish, lemon sliced, and sprigs of parsley. The garnish sometimes consists of oysters fried, or small fish, fried, or whitings; this is at the option of the cook. Anchovy or oyster sauce is served with it. The tail, when separated from the body of the fish, may be cooked in a variety of fashions. Some salt rubbed into it and hanging it two days, will render it exceedingly good when cooked. It may be spread open and thoroughly salted, or it may be cut into fillets, and fried. If the eod is cooked when very fresh, some salt should be rubbed down the back and the bone before boiling; it much improves the flavour; or, if hung for a day, the eyes of the fish should be removed, SALT AND FRESH WATER FISH. 159 and salt filled in the vacancies. It will be found to give firmness to the fish, and add to the richness of the flavour. 496. COD SOUNDS. RAGOUT. The sounds should not be much soaked, but thoroughly cleaned, simmer them for a short time, broil them, having first floured them; when they are just tender, stew them in white gravy which has been well seasoned, add a little cream, a bit of butter, a spoonful of flour, give it a boil, flavour with nutmeg, a small piece of lemon-peel, and a dash of pounded mace; serve. 497. SLICES OF COD. Three slices make a small dish; put them in a baking-dish, cover them over with some good second stock, a little essence of anchovies; when done thicken the stock, and pass it through a tammy, pour it over your fish, season with cayenne pepper, and salt, and lemon juice, if for capers add them, if for maitre d' hotel add cream and parsley chopped fine. 498. COD SOUNDS—BOILED. If boiled, they should be first soaked in warm water, or scalded in hot water; the latter is the quickest, the former the surest method: they should soak half an hour if put into warm water, the dirty skin should be removed, and when thoroughly cleaned boiled in equal parts of milk and water until tender. They should be sent to table with egg sauce. 499.—CRIMPED COD. Cut the cod, which should be quite fresh, in handsome slices, and lay it for about three hours in spring water salted, a little vinegar must be added, say one wine-glassful; make a fish kettle more than three parts full of spring water, in which a large handful of salt has been thrown, let it boil quickly, put in the cod, keep it boiling for ten minutes, it will then be enough ; take up the slices of fish with care, and lay them upon a fish plate, garnish with sprigs of parsley, sliced lemon, horse-radish scraped into curls; serve with shrimp and oyster sauce. 500.—STEWED COD. Cut some of the finest pieces from the thickest part of the fish, place them in a stewpan with a lump of butter the size of a walnut or larger, three or four blades of mace, bread crumbs, pepper, salt, a small bunch of sweet herbs, and some oysters, with a little of their own liquor. When nearly done add a large wine-glass of sherry, and stew gently until enough. 160 SALT AND FRESH WATER FISH. 501.—COD SCALLOPED. Take enough cold dressed cod to nearly fill all the shells you pur- pose using, pound it, beat up the yolk of an egg, and pour over it, add a few shrimps skinned, salt, pepper, and a little butter; do not quite fill the shells, strew over them fine bread crumbs, and drop butter in a liquid state over them. Brown them before the fire in a Dutch oven. 502.—TAIL OF OOD. Boil as previously directed, and when sufficiently done, that the meat may be easily removed from the bones, divide it into tolerable sized pieces, and in a light batter fry them brown. Send up crisped parsley with it as a garnish. It is sometimes cooked plainly with oyster sauce. 503.—BAKED COD. Cut a large fine piece out of the middle of the fish; skin it care- fully; stuff it with a stuffing composed of the yolks of two eggs boiled hard, the roe half-boiled, bread crumbs, grated lemon peel, butter, pepper, and salt, to taste. Bind it with the undressed white of on egg, sew in the stuffing with white thread. Bake it in a Dutch oven before the fire, turn it frequently, and baste it with butter; serve with shrimp sauce, plain butter, or oyster sauce. A tin baking dish is preferable to any other for cooking this fish. 504.—cod's head. Secure it well with strong string, not too thick; put it into a fish- kettle; cover it with water; put in a small handful of salt, a wine- glassful of vinegar, a quantity of scraped horse radish. Place the fish upon a drainer, and when the water boils, put it into the kettle. Boil gently; when the fish rises to the surface, it is enough; drain it, and be very particular in sliding the fish into the fish-plate, that it is not broken. Garnish with scraped horse-radish and lemon. Serve with shrimp and oyster sauce. 505.—COD FISH PIE. Take a piece from the middle of a good sized fish, salt it well all night, then wash it, and season with salt and pepper and a few grains of nutmeg, a little chopped parsley and some oysters, put all in your dish with pieces of butter on the fish; add a cup of good second white stock and cream; cover it with a good crust, add a little lemon juice in the gravy. 506.—CUEEY OP COD. This is a firm fish if good; when cold you can separate the flakes, and proceed as before, adding two dozen of large oysters to your fish. SALT AND FRESH WATER FISH. 161 607.—SALT COD. There are a variety of opinions upon the method of dressing this dish, many labouring so hard with soaking and brushing, to produce tenderness, but accomplishing that one end they completely destroy all flavour. It is doubtless an essential point to remove the dry, un- wholesome hardness of the fish, but it is equally essential to retain .the flavour, and experience has taught the author that the following process is the most successful of any he has hitherto attempted:— Soak the fish for eight hours in clean cold water (not spring water), let the water have enough vinegar in it to impregnate it with a slight flavour and no more, after soaking the above time take it out and let it drain three or four hours, then put in soak again for four hours, when this has been done, place it in a fish kettle with plenty of cold, soft water, let it come to a boil very gradually, place it on the side of the fire, and it will cook gradually until enough. Serve with parsnips and egg sauce. 508. ANOTHER WAY. Wash and soak the fish, lay it twelve hours in water into which two wineglasses of vinegar have been poured, put the fish in cold water in the fish kettle, bring it gradually to a boil, and then boil slowly until enough, take it out, drain it, break it into flakes upon a dish, beat up boiled parsnips and pour over it, boil up with cream and a good sized piece of butter rubbed in flour. Serve with egg or parsnip sauce, if the latter send the root up whole. 509.—CURRIED COD. Cut some handsome steaks of cod, slice a number of onions, and fry both a good brown colour, stew the fish in white gravy, add a large teaspoonful of curry-powder, a third that quantity of cayenne pepper, thicken with three spoonfuls of cream, a little butter, a pinch of salt, and a little flour, i 510. COD FRICASEED. Take the sounds, scald them and cut them into small pieces, if they have been dried boil them until they are tender, take some roes and the liver, blanch the roes, cut them into pieces an inch thick, and an equal quantity of the liver, boil for the middle a fine piece of cod, put them into a stewpan, season with grated nutmeg, if little pounded mace, an onion, a few sweet herbs, a sprinkle of salt, and add half a pint of boiling water (fish broth is better if conveni- ent), cover down close, stew for seven or eight minutes, then add four glasses of port, six oysters, with the liquor strained, and a piece of butter floured, stew gently, shaking the pan round occasionally until they are enough, remove the onion and the herbs, dish up, gar- nish with lemon, and serve. M 162 SALT AND FRESH WATER FISH. ftl 1.—COO SOUNDS. BROILED. Scald them, skin them, and, when perfectly clean, simmer them until tender, take them out, dredge them with flour, and broil them over a clear fire. During the time they are broiling, make a brown gravy, seasoned with salt and pepper, a spoonful of Harvey's sauce, one half that quantity of mustard, thicken with a little flour and butter, boil it up and pour it over the sounds. 513. COD OMELETTE. Break into small pieces the thickest parts of a dressed cod, season it with a little grated nutmeg and a little pounded mace, beat up six eggs well and mix with it, forming it into a paste, fry it as au ome- lette, and serve as hot as possible. 513. CARP, TENCH, PERCH, &C Dry well with clean cloth, dredge with flour, fry them until they are brown. If the pure flavour of the fish is desired, they should be cooked as soon after being caught as possible, and as simply as above described; but if it is desired to make a dish, the fish may be placed after having been fried in a stewpan, with a gill of port wine, the same quantity of water, the juice of half a lemon, two dessert spoon- fuls of walnut ketchup, half the quantity of mushroom ditto, or powder, sprinkle with cayenne pepper, an onion stuck with cloves, and a small horse-radish, from which the outer coat has been scraped: stew until the gravy is reduced to a rich thickness, remove the fish, strain the gravy as clear as possible, thicken it, and pour it over the fish; serve. 514.—STEWED CARP. Three carp will make a dish; put them in a baking dish, cut up in thin pieces a carrot, turnip, onion, celery, a faggot of sweet herbs, a bay leaf, a little mace, six cloves, whole pepper, some good second stock, six anchovies, half a pint of port wine, boil all this together, pour it over the carp while hot, put buttered paper over them, do them in the oven; when done strain off the stock from the fish and thicken it, strain it through a tammy, add a glass more port wine, season it with sugar, lemon juice, cayenne pepper, and salt. 515. DRESSED CRAB. The white part of the crab forms a wall within the dish, the SALT AND FRESH WATER FISH" 163 yellow part of the crab is mixed with vinegar, mustard, &C., so as to form a pool within. 516. DRESSED CRAB. Get a large crab, take off the claws, then pull off the body from the shell, the white meat keep by itself, and the soft yellow meat by itself, wash and trim the large back shell, then on one side put all the white meat, and on the other side put the soft meat, dividing the two with slices of cucumber or radishes. Crack the big bones or claws, and lay them underneath the crab to stand upon. Dish it up on s napkin. 517.—CRAZESTO DRESS CRABS. Scoop the meat from the shell, mix the meat into a paste with a little vinegar, bread crumbs, grated nutmeg, and a little butter, or sweet oil; return it into the shell, and serve. To serve this hot, it should be heated before the fire, and served up with dry toast cut into large squares or dice. 518. BAKED CRAB. Remove the meat from the shell, mix it with bread crumbs, about one fourth will be sufficient; add white pepper, salt, a little cayenne, grated nutmeg, and half a dozen small lumps of butter, each about the size of a nut; this last ingredient should be added to the fish after it has been returned to the shell. Squeeze lemon juice over it; lay a thick coat of bread crumbs over all, and bake. 519. CRAY FISH. Boil them in vinegar, salt, and water; when cold, turn each claw to stick in the fan of the tail, when they will look like a frog; dish them upon parsley. 520. CRAY-ilSH IN ASPIC. Take all the shells from the tails, wipe them; set a little aspic jelly to cool in your mould half an inch deep; you may ornament it if you like with white of eggs and truffles, and green French beans, if so you must put a little drop of jelly upon your design, let it get stiff, then go on filling your mould with the cray-fish, when full fill in some more aspic, but you must be sure the jelly is not warm or all your work of art will be lost; turn it out with lukewarm water; put cucumber round, introducing slices of red turnip radishes. 521. CHUB BOILED. Put as much beer, vinegar, and water into a fish-kettle as will cover the fish, a good quantity of salt and fennel; scale and cleanse a chub, and when the water boils put in the fish, when it is sufficiently boiled lay it on a board to drain, let it lie for an hour, put it in a pewter M 2 164 SALT AND FRESH WATER FISH. dish over a chafing dish of coals, with melted butter, and serve it very hot. 522. CHUB BROILED. Scald the chub, cut off the tail and fins, wash it well and slit it down the middle, make two or three cuts on the back with a knife, and broil it on a wood fire, baste it all the time it is broiling with fresh butter and salt and thyme shred small. 523.—CURRY OF FISH A L'lNDIENNE FOR BREAKFAST. Take a crimped haddock and boil it quickly with a good bit of salt in the water to make it firm; boil two eggs hard, then slice them in your stewpan with the finest pieces of the fish which you must have ready washed and blanched, and well boiled in good broth until soft, then strain the broth from the rice, if any left add it to the fish and eggs; add salt, pepper, and cayenne; keep it hot until wanted, then take a large spoonful of very good bechamel sauce very thick, add a good tea-spoonful of the best Indian curry powder, and a gill of good thick cream, boil it five minutes, then pass it through a sieve or tammy upon the fish and eggs, shake them quietly on the fire, it must be well seasoned. I make it with turbot or soles left from a former dinner, this makes a good dish for dinner, garnished with fillet, soles, or whitings. This quantity is sufficient for ten persons. 524. CURRIES OF FISH Are invariably made the same way as in receipt, No. 592, the only difference is the fish of whatever sort you may have; only some are more tender than others, and without great care you will break the pieces all to a mummy instead of being of a shape and quite clear pieces. Dish either in a rice rim or in a mashed potato rim, either way be sure to send up rice plain, particularly boiled for curries in general. Cut up two or three onions in thin slices, fry them a nice light brown, dry up the butter with curry powder, use some very good white stock, boil it well, season it with sugar, cayenne, salt, and lemon juice, strain all through a tammy cloth or sieve into a clean stewpan, then put your fish into it shaking it gently, do not use a spoon only to dish it with, boil it gently a short time. 525. DRESSED JOHN DORY. This fish will require much less doing than the carp, but you will proceed exactly the same, pouring the sauce over it. 526.—JOHN DORY Is dressed as turbot, and eaten with the same sauces. 527.—ANQUILLE8 i i/lIOLLANDAISE. Take two small lemons and remove the outer and inner skin as • SALT AND FRESHWATER FISH. 165 closely as possible, divide them into as many portions as they will separate without disturbing the juice, or if they should be sliced, use either an ivory or a silver knife to divide them, lay them in a stewpan with one quart and half a pint of water, add a faggot of fresh full leaved parsley, twenty corns of white pepper, a blade of mace, a little cayenne, and a tea-spoonful of salt, let it gradually boil, put it aside and simmer a quarter of an hour, suffer it to get cool, then add from two to three pounds of eels skinned, cleaned, and cut into equal lengths, boil very gradually a quarter of an hour, take out the eels and serve them with Dutch sauce. The liquor may be divided into half, and thickened with half a pint of cream, or with flour and butter seasoned with a little additional pepper and salt, and poured over the fish when dished, in the latter case it should be garnished with the lemon peel cut in small dice and kidround the dish in company with the boiled parsley minced. 528.—COLLARED EELS. The eels destined to be dressed as above should be the finest which can be selected: the skin must not be removed, but the bone must be carefully and cleverly extracted. Spread out the fish, and with some finely chopped sage, parsley, and mixed spices, rub the fish well over; then take some broad white tape, bind up the fish tightly;, throw a good handful of salt into the water in which it is to be- boiled, and a couple of bay leaves. Boil three quarters of an hour, and if the fish be taken out and hung to dry for twelve hours, it will be the better for it when served. Add to the water in which the fish has been boiled a pint of vinegar, a little whole pepper, some knotted marjoram or thyme. This pickle also should, after boiling about twelve minutes, be suffered to stand as long as the eels are recommended to be hung ; previous to serving the fish must be unrolled so as to abrase the skin as little as possible, and put them into the pickle. Send up in slices or whole, according to taste; garnish with parsley. 529.—EELS BREAD CRUMBED. Cut your fish the size as before, dry and flour them and proceed as for other fried fish, dish them on a napkin with fried parsley. 530. FRIED EELS. Cut into pieces same length as above, cleaned nicely and well dried; let them be coated with yolk of egg, powdered with bread crumbs; fry them brown; serve with parsley and butter. Garnish with handsome sprigs of parsley. 531.—BOILED EELS. Choose the smallest, simmer in a small quantity of water, into which a quantity of parsley has been put. Garnish and serve with game sauce as the last. 166 SALT AND FRESH WATER FISH. 532.—EELS STEWED. Procure six or seven large ones, and proceed, after having cut them about three inches in length, as for carp, leaving out the wine until last, add in your sauce some very fine chopped parsley, and a shalot, pour the sauce over the fish. 503. EELS—STEWED. This is a dish frequently made for invalids, and to the taste of many fitted always to appear on the table of an emperor: there are various methods of stewing them, the simplest is always the best, because, without exception, the flavour of the fish is preserved, when, in too many cases, it is wholly destroyed by the number of ingre- dients employed; indeed the skill of the professed cook is most frequently exerted to give the various esculents, they prepare for the table an opposite taste to that which they naturally possess. To stew eels they should be cut in pieces about three inches long, and fried until they are about half cooked ; they will be then brown: let them get cold, take some good beef gravy, and an onion, parsley, plenty of white pepper, a little salt, some sage chopped very fine, enough only to add to the flavour, a little mace, place the eels in this gravy, and stew until they are tender: two anchovies may be finely chopped and added, with two teaspoonfuls of mustard, already made, some walnut ketchup, and a glass of red wine, serve with sippets of toasted bread. Or after being stewed until tender, a glass of port wine may be added, half a lemon squeezed into it; strain and thicken with butter and flour. 534.—SPITCHCOCKED EELS. There are several ways to spitchcock eels. They are either broiled or stewed. To broil them, see that the gridiron is cleaned and rubbed with suet, to prevent the adhesion of the skin of the fish, which which must be suffered to remain on; cut the eels, which should be large, into lengths of six or seven inches, not less, and coat them well with yolk of egg. Pound in a mortal- parsley, nutmeg, mace, cloves, and pepper, this should be rubbed over the fish, and they should be broiled a clear brown; serve with melted butter, fish sauce, employed according to palate. 535.—LAMPREYS. Same as receipt, 528. 536. GURNET OR GURNARD. May be boiled as in receipt, No. 584, or may be baked in the same manner as the receipt for pike. It may also be cooked without the forcemeat and sent to table with plain melted butter and anchovy, with a lemon and a little Dutch or brown caper sauce. SALT AND FRESH WATER FISH. 167 537. HALIBUT. May be cut in fillets and dressed as mackerel fillets. 538. HALIBUT STEWED. Put into a stewpan half a pint of fish broth, a table-spoonful of vinegar, and one of mushroom ketchup, add an anchovy, two good sized onions cut in quarters, a bunch of sweet herbs, and one clove of garlic, add a pint and a half of water, let it stew an hour and a quarter, strain it off clear, put into it the head and shoulders of a fine halibut and stew until tender, thicken with butter and flour, and serve. 539. TO CURE FINNON HADDOCK. Cut off the heads and clean them as in the receipt "to dry haddocks," cover them with salt, and let them remain in it two hours, brush them over with pyroligneous acid. Hang them for ten days or a fortnight. In Scotland, they tie them in pairs on a string, and hang them over peat which has been so much burned as not to emit much smoke or heat, and in two or three hours they are fit to eat. 540. TO DRY HADDOCK. Choose the finest you can obtain, clean them, remove the eyes, the entrails, and the gills; clear away also all the blood from the backbone. Wipe them as dry as you can with a clean soft cloth, and fill in with salt the spaces which contained the eyes, also rub in a quantity in the inside of the fish, lay them in a cool place on a dry flag-stone, or a piece of board for eighteen or twenty hours, then hang them in a dry place. Four days will be found quite sufficient to prepare them for eating. 541. TO DRESS DRIED HADDOCK. They should be skinned, rubbed with egg, and rolled in new bread crumbs, lay them in a dish before the fire to brown, baste with butter, and when well browned serve with egg sauce. 542.—TO DRESS HADDOCKS. Clean them very thoroughly, and take off the heads and the skin, put them into boiling water, throw in two moderate sized handfuls of salt, let them boil as fast as possible, and when they rise to the surface (which they will do, if they have sufficient room), they are done enough. They are sent to table with plain butter for sauce. 543. TO STEW HADDOCKS. Bone, cut off the heads, tails, fins, and do the trimming neatly, of two or three haddocks, or as many as are required, put them in three pints of water, with a teaspoonful of pepper-corns, and a large onion, stew slowly five-and-thirty minutes, strain the gravy off, take up the 168 SALT AND FRESHWATER FISH. fish, dredge it with flour, fry it brown over a clear fire, and re-place it in the stock; add half a teaspoonful of cayenne pepper, squeeze in half a lemon, a tablespoonful of ketchup, and stew till the gravy is of a rich consistency. These quantities are for three haddocks 644.—TO BAKE HADDOCK. Cut off the heads, trim and bone them, season with pepper and salt, chop very fine a small quantity of mushroom, onion, and parsley, spread it over the fish, lay on them small pieces of butter, and place them in a dish with crumbs of bread, bake them from fifty minutes to an hour, skim the gravy, and serve up in the same dish, as that in which it was cooked. 545.—HADDOCK—TO BROIL. Flour it, broil it a fine brown over a quick, clear fire, the higher you are able to place the gridiron the better; serve with lobster sauce. 546.—HERRINGS. Herrings are dressed in a variety of fashions; they are fried, boiled, broiled, dried, potted, baked, smoked, pickled. There are three sorts of herrings, fresh, salted, and red herrings, they are cleaned like any other sort of fish, when fresh they are boiled and served with melted butter, white sauce, &C.; the salted herring should be soaked in cold water before it is cooked, this is broiled, sometimes it is cut in pieces and eaten raw; the red herring is split down the back, the head and tail taken off, and the fish broiled like the others, they may be also dressed in the following manner: when they have laid in cold water some time, soak them in milk for two hours, then split them down the back, have ready some melted butter in which has been mixed basil and bay leaf minced small, the yolks of two eggs, pepper, and nutmeg, rub the herrings well with this bread, then broil them over a gentle fire, serve with lemon juice; the best red herrings are full of roe, are firm and large, and have a yellow cast ; of the fresh herrings the scales are bright, if good the eye is full and the gill red, the fish should be stiff. 547. FRESH HERRINGS BAKED. Wash the herrings in clear spring water, when they are thoroughly clean drain them, and then, without wiping them, lay them in a dish or baking pan; pepper and salt them, chop finely two or three onions, some parsley, thyme, and strew over them; cover them in equal proportions of vinegar and small-beer; tie them over, and let them bake one hour in a slow oven. They should be kept in the pickle, and make a pleasant dish when cold. SALT AND FRESH WATER FISH. 169 548.—FRESH HERRING'SBOILED. Clean them, wash them over with vinegar, fasten the heads to the tails, and put them in boiling water; they will take from ten to twelve minutes. Garnish with parsley, and serve melted butter, in which a table-spoonful of ketchup, a tea-spoonful of Chili vinegar, and one of made mustard has been mixed while making. 549. FRESH HERRINGS—BROILED. To broil them steep them first in vinegar and water, into which a handful of salt has been thrown; let them remain ten minutes, take them out and broil them over a clear fire, (the bars of the gridiron should be rubbed with suet, to prevent the skin of the fish adhering to it.) Serve, garnished with parsley. They may be eaten with melted butter, with a little mustard and vinegar in it, or lemon juice instead of the latter, being preferable. 550. FRESH HERRING'SFRIED. Slice small onions, and lay in the pan with the fish, or fry separately, as judgment may dictate; serve the fish with the onions laid round them. The herrings are generally fried without the onions, but those who are partial to this strongly flavoured vegetable, will prefer the addition. 551.—TO POT HERRINGS. Take from one to two dozen herrings according to the number you purpose potting, choose them as large, fine, and fresh as you can. Take two ounces of salt, one of saltpetre, two of allspice, reduce them to an impalpable powder, and rub them well into the herrings; let them remain with the spice upon them eight hours to drain, wipe off the spice clean and lay them in a pan on which butter has been rubbed, season with nutmeg, mace, white pepper, salt, and one clove in powder, one ounce each save the last; lay in two or three bay leaves, cover with butter and bake gently three hours. When cool, drain off the liquor, pack the fish in the pots intended for their use, cover to the depth of half an inch with clarified butter, sufficiently melted just to run, but do not permit it to be hot; they will be ready for eating in two days. 552. LOBSTER AS SERVED. 170 SALT AND FRESH WATER FISH. The common mode of sending this excellent shell-fish to table is very generally known. We subjoin a few uncommon modes. 553.—LOBSTER CURRIED. Take the meat of a fine lobster, or two, if they should be small, place in a stewpan two dessert-spoonfuls of curry powder, add of butter two ounces, an onion cut in very fine strips, and three dessert- spoonfuls of fish stock. When they are stewed well, add the lobster, simmer gently for an hour, squeeze in half a lemon, season with a little salt. In the eastern method the expressed juice of spinach is usually added. This is obtained by simply putting spinach, without any water, into a saucepan, and when done enough, press out the juice, and add it with butter, cayenne, and salt, to the gravy. Prawns may be dressed in this fashion. 554. TO STEW LOBSTERS. Extract from the shells of two lobsters, previously boiled, all the meat; take two-thirds of a quart of water, and stew the shells in it, with mace, unground pepper, and salt. Let it boil an hour or more, till you have obtained all that is to be got from the shells; then strain. Add the richest portions of the lobster, and some of the best of the firm meat to some thin melted butter; squeeze a small portion of lemon juice into it; add a tnble-spoonful of Madeira, pour this into the gravy, and when warmed it is ready to serve. 555. LOBSTER BUTTER. The hen lobster should be selected, on account of the coral; take out the meat and spawn, and bruise it in a mortar; add to it a tea- spoonful of white wine, season with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a little grated lemon peel; add four ounces of fresh butter, slightly dusted over with flour. Work this well together, and then rub it through a hair sieve; it should be kept in a cool place until ready to serve. 556. TO ROAST LOBSTERS. Take live lobster, half boil it, remove it from the kettle in which it is boiling, dry it with a cloth, while hot rub it over with butter, set it before a good fire, baste it with butter; when it produces a fine froth, it is done: serve with melted butter. 557. ORATIJf OP LOBSTER. Take out all the meat from a large lobster, then wash the body, tail, and shells, if the lobster was first cut in half down the back, then dry them and butter them, and sprinkle them with bread crumbs, chop up the meat fine, and a little parsley and shalot, a few drops of essence of anchovies, a spoonful of vinegar, cayenne pepper, and salt, a little bechamel sauce, boil all well together, add a yolk of SALT ANDFRESH WATER FISH. 171 egg, put it to cool, then fill your shells or paper cases, cover it with bread crumbs and some pieces of butter, brown them in the oven, dish on a napkin. 558. MACKEREL. Cleanse the fish thoroughly inside and out, remove the roe carefully, steep it in vinegar and water, and replace it; place the fish in water from which the chill has been taken, and boil very slowly from fifteen to twenty minutes, the best criterion is to be found in the starting of the eyes and splitting of the tail, when that takes place the fish is done; take it out of the water instantly, or you will not preserve it whole. Garnish with fennel or parsley, and either chopped fine in melted butter, serve up as sauce. Gooseberry sauce is occasionally sent to table, but it does not suit every palate. 559.—MACKEREL PIE. You may do the same as No. 505, but do not lay them in salt, and use fennel and mint and parsley. 560. TO BAKE MACKEREL. Open and cleanse thoroughly, wipe very dry, pepper and salt the inside, and put in a stuffing composed of bread crumbs finely powdered, the roe chopped small, parsley, sweet herbs, very few of the latter; work together with the yolk of an egg, pepper and salt to taste, sew it in the fish, place the latter in a deep baking dish, dredge it with flour slightly, add a little cold fresh butter in small pieces, put them into an oven, and twenty-eight or thirty minutes will suffice to cook them. Send them in a hot dish to table, with parsley and butter. 561. ANOTHER WAY. After you have opened and cleaned them cut off the heads and tails, rub pepper and salt into them, lay them in a deep dish with two bay leaves, a few blades of mace, a table-spoonful of whole black pepper, pour over them just sufficient to cover them equal portions of vinegar and water; cover the dish with cartridge-paper, and tie^it down closely; bake an hour in a slow oven. Serve with melted butter and parsley, or fennel chopped fine in it. This is an excellent way when the fish is to be eaten cold. 562. TO BROIL MACKEREL. Cleanse it well, and cut with a sharp knife, a gash from head to tail of the mackerel, just sufficient on one side to clear the backbone, pass into the incision a little pepper (cayenne) and salt, moistened with clarified butter, broil it over a clear fire, be particular that the SALT AND FRESH WATER FISH. 173 into your saute-pan with the butter, the juice of a lemon and cayenne and white pepper and salt. 568.—FILLETS BOILED. Separate as before, place them in a stew-pan in lukewarm water, put in a pinch of salt and a little parsley; when they have boiled five minutes they will be done; this may be tried by seeing if the flesh divides readily. Remove the scum as fast as it rises; drain the fillets before dishing them. Serve with parsley and butter. 569. TO FRY MACKEREL. A LA FRAN9AISE OR A LA MATTRE D'HOTEL. It may be observed, as a rule to prevent the too frequent repe- tition of the same thing, that it is to be supposed the fish must be thoroughly cleansed and gutted, unless directions to the contrary are given: supposing then the fish have been cleaned and emptied, cut off the tails, and with a sharp knife lay the fish completely open, and remove the back-bone; this feat should be skilfully performed, or the appearance of the fish will be materially altered, and by no means improved. Dry the mackerel thoroughly, sprinkle with pow- dered salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and when the lard in the fryingpan is boiling lay them in, and fry them a clear brown. Serve with melted butter, in which has been mixed one spoonful Harvey's sauce, one ditto of mustard, and two of Chili vinegar, or boil half a dozen small onions, and while boiling rapidly lay in a young cucum- ber one minute, with a faggot of fennel and parsley. Chop the latter finely, and cut the cucumber into shapes, add pepper and salt, put them into a stewpan with a lump of butter for three or four minutes, place the vegetables on the fish, and squeeze a large lemon over them. 570.—STEWED MACKEREL. A marinade must be made, in which to stew the fish, consisting of a pint of gravy, in which put chopped, almost to a paste, parsley, fennel, and shalot, the latter not too plentifully; two table-spoon- fuls of ketchup, one of essence of anchovies, and a lump of butter well floured, about the size of a walnut. Keep it stirring until it boils, add one glass of port previous to boiling, pour it in by slow degrees, and when it boils lay in the fish which has been thoroughly cleansed and boned. Stew gently twenty minutes, do not exceed that time. It will be found expedient to turn them when half cooked, but do not attempt it if you cannot accomplish it cleverly, for broken fish is sure to be the result. Dish very carefully; add to the sauce a tea-spoonful of French mustard mixed, half a glass of port wine, and the juice of half a lemon; boil it up and pour over the fish. 571.—RED MULLET. There are various ways of dressing this fish which has obtained SALT AND FRESH WATER FISH. 175 576.—SCALLOP OYSTERS. Wash clean some bottom shells of the oysters if you have not silver shells or scallop shells, butter and bread crumb them, blanch your oysters, either do them whole or cut them, make a thick sauce with the liquor adding a good spoonful of white sauce, season with cayenne pepper and salt, fill in the shells and bread crumbs on the top, and sprinkle clarified butter on the tops, brown in the oven—dish them upon a napkin. 1 577. ROAST OYSTERS. Large oysters not opened, a few minutes before they are wanted, put them on a gridiron over a moderate fire. When done they will open, do not lose the liquor that is in the shell with the oysters, send them hot upon a napkin. 578. AN OYSTER PIE, WITH SWEETBREADS. Blanch them and take off the beards, separate them from the liquor, blanch some throat sweetbreads, and when cold cut them in slices, then lay them and the oysters in layers in your dish, season with salt, pepper, a few grains of mace and nutmeg; add some thick sauce, a little cream, and the oyster liquor, and some good veal stock; bake in a slow oven. 579. STEWED OYSTERS. The oysters should be bearded and ringed in their own liquor, which should then be strained and thickened with flower and butter, and placed with the oysters in a stewpan; add mace, lemon peel cut into threads, some white pepper whole; these ingredients had better be confined in a piece of muslin. The stew must simmer only, if it is suffered to boil the oysters will become hard; serve with sippets of bread. This may be varied by adding a glass of wine to the liquor, before the oysters are put in and warmed. 580.—SCALLOPED OYSTERS. Beard the oysters, wash in their own liquor, steep bread crumbs in the latter, put them with the oysters in to scallop shells, with a bit of butter and seasoning of salt, pepper, and a little grated nut- meg; make a paste with bread crumbs and butter; cover, and roast them before the fire, or in an oven. 581. OYSTERS. If eaten immediately upon being opened, neither vinegar nor pep- per should be taken with them, or the flavour will disappear in the taste of the vinegar. 582.—OYSTER FRITTERS. Beard, dip them into an omelette, sprinkle well with crumbs of bread; fry them brown. 176 SALT AND FRESHWATER FISH. 583 JACK ORPIKE TO CH00SK. If the fish is fresh the gills will be red, the fish stiff, and eyes bright; the best sort are caught in rivers, the worst are caught in ponds; it is a very dry fish, and very much improved by stuffing and sauce; they are not thought much of in England, but are much liked in inland counties. 584.—TO BAKE TIKE. Clean and empty it thoroughly, but do not disturb the scales in the operation, stuff it with oyster forcemeat, and skewer the tail to the mouth, sprinkle over it a little salt, and dredge a little flour, stick small pieces of butter all over it, and bake in a steady oven forty to fifty minutes ; you must be regulated by the size of the fish. To the sauce which will be found in the dish when the pike is done, a little melted butter with a spoonful of essence of anchovies may be added, and a small quantity of grated lemon peel or lemon pickle, also a table-spoonful of sherry, one of Harvey's sauce, and a little cayenne, will render the gravy exceedingly pleasant. 585.—pike—TO BOIL. Wash and clean the fish thoroughly, unless you are very par- ticular you will not conquer an earthy taste, which from a want of the proper application of the cook's art, too often appears. It is usual to stuff it with forcemeat, more for the purpose of destroying that peculiarity than from any additional flavour or zest it gives the fish. Having cleaned well and stuffed with forcemeat, skewer the head to the tail, lay it upon a drainer and put it in the fish kettle, let it have plenty of water into which you may throw a handful of salt and a glassful of vinegar; when it boils remove the scum as fast as it rises, it will take three quarters of an hour if a tolerable size, if very large an hour, if small half an hour; serve with melted butter and lemon sliced or whole. Some persons prefer anchovy sauce, some Dutch ; they may each be eaten with the fish. It is always the best method where a variety of fancies, each not in itself incorrect, are applied to the use of various sauces, to send the sauce cruets to table and permit every one to gratify his peculiar taste. 586.—PRAWKS. If you have no lemon for garniture, get the dish they are to go upon and likewise another of the same size, turn one bottom upwards, then dish your prawns one by one with the heads inwards upon their backs touching each other; when you have got quite round the bottom of the dish, take a handful of tightly squeezed picked parsley, and put into the middle, take the other dish, and put on to it holding it tight with your finger and thumb, turn it over, take off the dish, add then some more upon them, use cucumber or parsley round them. SALTAND FRESH WATER FISH. 177 [ 587. PRAWNS TO BOIL. Prawns require plenty of boiling water, when the water boils add a quarter of a pound of salt for each three quarts of water, let the water boil very fast, clear off the scum and toss in the prawns, keep them boiling as fast as you can for seven or eight minutes; take them out and drain them, keep them in a cool place. They are sent to table on a napkin with dry toast and fresh butter, or brown bread and butter in slices 688.—PRAWNS. Dish them upon a large lemon, sticking the horn on the head iuto the lemon, beginning from the bottom and keep going round until you get at the top, introduce a few purGes of parsley between, put the lemon upon a napkin or cut paper. 589.—PRAWNS. When in perfection they have an excellent smell, and their flavour is very sweet, they are firm and stiff, the tails which turn inwards particularly. When the prawns are fresh their colour is very bright, but if stale they are pale and clammy to the touch. 590.—PLAICE And Flounders should be sprinkled with salt, and wrapped in a towel an hour previous to cooking, and be fried as soles, &c. 591. PRAWNS TO SERVE. Take a pound and a half of fine prawns; pick, and trim them neatly; have ready a deep dish or soup plate, the centre of which fill with any sort of salading you please, provided it has no smell; cover this with a large napkin, folded square, and the corners turned down, so as to form an octagon, leaving no more than the border of the plate or dish visible. Place a handful of nice green parsley on the napkin, and the prawns in a pyramid on it. 592. DRESSED SALMON." All salmon whether crimped, split, or in slices, let them go through the same process in dressing, you can differ your sauces as may be most approved of. Put your salmon either in your fish kettle or a large baking dish, if a dish you must cover it with buttered paper, and frequently baste it with the marinade, which is made thusi-- cut a carrot, turnip, celery, onions, a faggot of sweet herbs, two blades of mace, whole pepper, six cloves, a bay leaf, six anchovies, a cup of vinegar, a quart of good brown second stock, two glasses of sherry;—then put on your salmon, letting it stew until done, then drain off all the stock from the fish, and thicken it and strain it through a tammy; if for N 178 SALT AND FRESH WATER FISH. capers, add them in the sauce you have put through the tammy and boil it for some time removing all grease that rises, season with lemon juice, cayenne pepper, salt, and sugar, if required a little essence of anchovies. Pour this sauce over the fish. Get about two pounds of salmon rather thick part, and with a sharp knife cut it as you would as near as possible the shape of cutlets, have ready a saute-pan with some clarified butter and a little cayenne pepper, pass each cutlet through the butter; when you have filled the pan with about sixteen outlets, if for a corner dish that is sufficient, cut a paper round and butter it and put it over your cutlets, then put them either in your oven or on your hot plate or stove, be careful in turning them, take them out of the saute-pan or paper to dry away the grease, have some good brown sauce ready; after taking off the fat from what they were done in, put the remainder good into your sauce, add a few drops of anchovy sauce, lemon juice, a little sugar, a glass of wine, boil well for some time, dish your cutlets one on the other round, either glaze them or pour the sauce over them. 593. CRIMPED SALMON—A LA CREME. The salmon, like cod, must be quite fresh or it will not crimp. Cut the body into slices about two inches thick; have ready some salt and water in the proportion of three ounces of salt to a quart of water, with the smallest knob of saltpetre about the size of a nut, dip the salmon slices into this as they are cut, hold them for half a minute, and then rinse them in clear, cold spring water and lay them upon a dish, put a lump of butter well rubbed in flour into a stewpan, while the butter is melting sprinkle in a little salt and cayenne, and when the butter is on the simmer stir in half a pint of cream, keep stirring, and as it boils squeeze in the juice of a quarter of a lemon, and stir in a large tea-spoonful of essence of anchovies, add a little more salt to taste. Having boiled the crimped salmon in quick boiling water ten minutes, take them out and let them drain one minute, put them in a clean stewpan and pour over the prepared cream and let it simmer ten minutes, it should not if possible be suffered to boil. The lemon juice is sometimes deferred until the fish is removed from the cream, a minute's simmer is allowed, aud it is then all poured over the salmon and sent very hot to table. 594.—TO DRY SALMON. Open the fish, remove the whole of the inside, including the roe. Scald it, and then rub it with common salt; hang it to drain from twenty-four to thirty hours. Mix well two ounces of Foot's sugar, the same quantity of bay salt, three ounces of salpetre; rub the mixture thoroughly into the salmon; place it upon a dish, and suffer it to remain for forty-eight hours, and then rub it with common salt. Let it remain until the succeeding evening, it will then be ready to dry.. Wipe it thoroughly SALT AND FRESH WATER FISH. 179 after drying; spread it open with two sticks, and Lang it in a chimney where a wood fire is burned. 595. SALMON POTTED. Cut a handsome piece from the middle of the salmon; remove the scales, and wipe it with a clean cloth. Rub into it some common salt thoroughly. Beat up some mace, cloves, and whole pepper; season the salmon with it; place it in a pan with a few bay leaves; cover it with butter, and bake it until thoroughly done; remove it from the gravy, letting it drain thoroughly, then place it in the pots. Clarify suf- ficient butter to cover all the pots after the salmon has been put into them: put it to cool. 596. TO PICKLK SALMON. Scale, clean, split, and divide into handsome pieces the salmon; place them in the bottom of a stewpan, with just sufficient water to cover them. Put into three quarts of water one pint of vinegar, a dozen bay leaves, half that quantity of mace, a handful of salt, and a fourth part of an ounce of black pepper. When the salmon is sufficiently boiled remove it, drain it, place it upon a cloth. Put in the kettle another layer of salmon; pour over it the liquor which you have prepared, and keep it until the salmon is done. Then remove the fish, place it in a deep dish or pan, cover it with the pickle, which, if not sufficiently acid, may receive more vinegar and salt, and be boiled forty minutes. Let the air be kept from the fish, and, if kept for any length of time, it will be found necessary to occasionally drain the liquor from the fish, skim, and boil it. '397.—COLLARED SALMON. Cut off the head and shoulders and the thinnest part of the tail, thus leaving the primest part of the salmon to be collared. Split it, and having washed and wiped it well, make a compound of cayenne pepper, white pepper, a little salt, and some pounded mace. Rub the fish well with this mixture inside and out; roll, and bandage with broad tape, lay it in a saucepan, cover it with water and vinegar, one part of the latter to two of the former; add a table-spoonful of pepper, black and white whole, two bay leaves, and some salt. Keep the lid closed down. Simmer until enough, strain off the liquor; let it cool, pour over the fish when cold; garnish with fennel. 1)98.—SALMON TO BOIL. This fish cannot be too soon cooked after being caught; it should be put into a kettle with plenty of cold water, and a handful of salt, the addition of a small quantity of vinegar will add to the firmness N 2 SALT AND FRESH WATER FISH. 181 it all to boil until dried up, stir it and keep it from burning, then put it to get cold; pound the salmon well, then add the boiled fat, taking out the onion and parsley, put about two ounces of butter with it, pound all well, then rub it through a wire seive, when done return it back into the mortar, and add, according to the quantity, two yolks of eggs and one whole egg, a little essence of anchovies, cayenne pepper, a little white pepper, salt, and a dust of sugar. Have a stewpan of boiling water ready, take out a piece and boil it to see if it is light or does not drop to pieces; have your small or large moulds ready and well buttered, six small ones make sufficient for a dish; if for a corner, put buttered paper over each mould. To stew them have a stewpan sufficiently large to hold them, line the bottom with paper, and only put sufficient water to come half up the mould, mind the cover fits quite close, and be sure it boils, then put them in; the small ones will take about half an hour, when done drain the grease well from them, before dishing them pour the sauce in the middle. 605.—PUDDING OR QUENELLES. You will proceed as before with salmon if from dressed fish; if from other fish scrape all the meat from the skin and bones, and use two filleted anchovies pounded with the fish instead of any essence, and it will take longer to stew than dressed fish, the sauce as for fillets of soles, leaving out the chopped parsley. 606.—SOLES. Soles should be skinned and trimmed by the fishmonger. If fried plain, dry them well with a clean cloth, flour them with a dredge, the pan should be well cleaned, and a quantity of lard placed in it, it should be boiling hot, before the fish is placed into the pan brown them nicely, dish with care; or they may, instead of being floured, be coated with the yolk of eggs beaten up with bread crumbs, previous to frying, they should be a light but not a pale brown when cooked. 607.—SOLES—BOILED. Choose a large thick sole, wash and clean thoroughly without disturbing the roe or the melt, lay it in a fish kettle with enough cold water to cover it, throw in a handful of salt, let it come gradually to it boil, and having kept the water well skimmed, place the kettle by the side of the fire, and in eight minutes the sole will be sufficiently cooked to_ dish, serve with shrimp sauce, cucumber sliced and dressed. 608. FILLETS, BREAD CRUMBED. The fillets you will roll up and fasten together with a small skewer or fine string round them; proceed exactly as for bread crumbed soles, they will take a little longer to fry, stand them op endways to dish them whether for garnish or a dish; be sure to draw out the skewer or the string. 182 SALT AND FRESH WATER FISH. 609. FILLETS OF SOLES MAKE A GOOD PIE. Cut each fillet in half and lay them in your dish, season with pepper and salt, and a layer of oysters, chopped parsley, and some oyster liquor, with some good stock, or white sauce into the dish is best, add a gill of cream. 610. SOLES A LA PORTUGUESE. Split two small soles or cut one large one in half and bone it, fry the fish slightly in a pan with a bit of butter and a squeeze of lemon juice, take it out and place on each piece of fish a layer of stuffing or forcemeat, roll it up leaving the head for the outside, secure each roll with a small skewer. Lay them in a pan, an earthenware one will be found the best; moisten them with a well beaten egg, and cover them with bread crumbs. To a cup-full of meat gravy put one table-spoonful of essence of anchovy and some minced parsley, mix with it the remains of the egg used to moisten the rolls with, and pour it over them, then cover down closely and bake in a slow oven until the fish are done, they will take about twenty minutes. Lay the rolls in a very hot dish witn the heads to each other, skim the gravy cleanly and quickly, pour it over them and serve. Garnish with fried parsley. 611. BOLES Au] PLAT. Bone the soles, trim them, take off the heads and lay them in a dish in which you have poured about two ounces of clarified butter, 8 table-spoonful of white broth, the juice of a quarter of a lemon, half a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovies, some parsley chopped as finely as possible, and a sprinkling of cayenne pepper. Previously to laying the soles upon this compound, brush them over lightly with the yolk of an egg, and strew finely powdered bread crumbs over them ; bake them twenty minutes in a slow oven, serve in the dish with the sauce. 612. FILLETS OF SOLES, MA1TRE d'h6tEL. Get four good sized soles filleted, beat each fillet with your outlet beater, dipping your cutlet beater into cold water frequently; then cut each fillet into three, rounding one end and leaving the other as a point to form a cutlet; have ready about a quarter of a pound ot clarified butter in a sauté-pan, and the juice of two lemons, cayenne pepper, and salt, mix well together, dip each cutlet as you cut it both sides in this, keeping the cutlets in the saucepan ; about twenty four cutlets will make a corner dish, paper them over, and either do them in the oven or on the stove; when done take them out of the saute pan to drain, keep them hot until you dish them; the bones ana trimmings with what is left in your saute-pan make the sauce from! put all your trimmings into a stewpan with a quart of stock, four SALT AND FRESHWATERFISH. 183 anchovies, reduce it down to half a pint, thicken it, and strain it through a tammy into a clean stewpan, add a gill of cream, have ready some very fine chopped parsley to sprinkle over the last thing, pour the sauce over your fish. Dish as cutlets. 613. FILLETS OF SOLES FRIED, TO 00 ROUND OTHER FI8H. Cut and prepare your soles as before, only laying each cutlet in a cloth to dry, and well flour them; then egg them and bread crumb them, let your bread be put through a wire sieve, put a little flour and salt to the crumbs; have ready in a stewpan some lard or oil, if for a catholic or Jew's family, oil when quite hot, which you will know by dropping into it a sprinkle of crumbs fried, and if it makes a great noise it is hot; then put in three or four outlets shaking them about until a nice light brown, take them out to drain on paper, keep them hot, if for a dish by themselves; fry at the same time a good handful of parsley. In doing this, to prevent accidents, take your stewpan off the fire and hold it over the dripping-pan from you, then all at once throw in your parsley, you may in a minute return it to the fire until crisp and green. 614. FILLETS OF SOLES IN ASPIC. Cut the fillets of soles as for cutlets, and saute them the same, keeping them white and free from grease, dish them round the inside of the mould and ornament as before, if ornament is liked; or, dish them round your dish, a little small salad or lettuce in the middle, chopped aspic round, and cut cucumber in thin slices as a border to your dish. 615. SKATE — May be cut into pieces, and fried in oil, with parsley, an onion cut in slices, and sweet herbs; when sufficiently cooked, pour off the fat. Throw into the pan a small tea-cupful of vinegar, the same quantity of water ; stir it with the herbs, and dredge with flour, until a good consistency; add capers the last thing before sending to table. 616. CRIMPED SKATE. Remove the skin from both sides of the fish, cut it in pieces of less than two inches the whole length of the fish; roll and tie with thin twine, put into three quarts of water a handful of salt and half a tea- cupful of vinegar, soak the rolls for three hours, then boil them in more than sufficient water to cover them, add two ounces of salt to each quart of water, and three large onions cut in slices, let it boil a quarter of an hour, take them out and remove the twine without injury to the fish, serve with anchovy sauce. 617.—STURGEON BOILED. Soak the fish in salt and water four hours, remove it and bathe 184 SALT AND FRESH WATER FISH. with pyroligneous acid diluted with water, let it drain an hour, then put it into boiling water, let it be well covered, add three onions, a faggot of sweet herbs, and a small quantity of bay-salt. When it is boiled so tender that the bones will separate readily remove it from the fire, take away bones and skin, cut it into slices, dredge it with flour, brown it before the fire, and serve with a gravy, the same as given above for roasting. CI8. STURGEON BROILED. Cut a fine piece of the fish, and skinning it divide it into slices. Beat up three eggs, and dip each of the slices into them, powder fine bread crumbs mixed with finely chopped parsley, pepper and salt over them, fold them in paper, and broil them, being careful that the fire is clear. Send them to table with essence of anchovies, and soy, accompanied by cold butter. 619. BEFORE YOU BAKE STURGEON, Let it lie several hours in salt and water, then boil it until the bones can be removed; pour vinegar over your fish and in the water and salt. When done take it out to cool, then egg and bread crumb it, then sprinkle clarified butter over it, place it in a moderate hot oven to brown, make a very thick sauce from your kidneys and good stock, with a table-spoonful of essence of anchovies, season it with cayenne pepper, salt, dust of sugar, juice of lemon, and a glass of wine. 620. FILLETS OF STURGEON. Either for a corner dish in a large dinner, or a top remove. Cut your fish in rather thick slices, saute them as for fillets of soles a little, place them in a stewpan regularly round, with an onion and a faggot of sweet herbs, three small onions, a blade or two of mace, a few cloves, and some whole pepper, put the liquor from your saute pan into them, with three or four whole anchovies, a glass of white wine and some good second stock, stew it gently until tender, carefully take out the cutlets, thicken the sauce, if you want them white add a gill of cream; season with the juice of a lemon, cayenne pepper, and salt, and a dust of sugar. Dish them as outlets, and pour the sauce over them. 621.—STURGEON ROASTED. Cut into slices as above, but do not remove the skin, split the pieces on a cork-spit, roast tenderly basting frequently with butter. Make a brown gravy, flavour it with essence of anchovies; squeeze in a quarter of a lemon and add a glass of sherry, served up with the fish. 622.—STURGEON STEWED. Cut into pieces, and stew as tench. SALT AND FRESH WATER FISH. 185 623. FILLETS OF STURGEON,MAiTBE d'hOtEL. Prepare the fish as before, leaving out the wine and add some very fine chopped parsley, and shallots and cream. 624. SHRIMP TOAST—CROUTE AUX CREVEI.LES FRENCH. Boil five pints of shrimps, and as soon as they are cold shell them, take the heads and bruise them in a mortar, put them into barely a quart of water and let them boil an hour, strain them very clear and add three parts to half the quantity of good veal stock. Put into a stewpan a lump of butter the] size of an egg, and when it has commenced to bubble, stir in one tea-spoonful of flour, a little grated nutmeg, a sprinkling of cayenne, and a small quantity of mace, the fourth of a teaspoonful ; when this browns, pour in the stock gradually, adding a glass of vin de Bordeaux, and let it boil, then add the shrimps, cut off the bottom crust of a French loaf, hollow out the crumb, and fry the crust in fresh butter until a golden brown; as soon as the shrimps are thoroughly heated which will be in about three or four minutes, pour them into the hollowed toast. 685. CROUTE AUX CREVELLES A LA REINE AMELIE Is made in the same manner, save that about four table-spoonfuls of cream are added to the ingredients before the shrimps are put in. , 626.—SMELTS. This is a very delicate fish, requires delicate handling, and is quickly cooked; draw through the gills and wipe with a soft cloth, but do not wash them, dip them into the yolk of an egg beaten very smooth, and sprinkle them with bread crumbs as finely as they can be powdered, a little flour may be mixed with the bread crumbs, fry them a clear light brown, four minutes will suffice to cook them. The French method of serving is to skewer six through the gills with a silver skewer, and serve them in sixes. If dished, lay them head and tail alternately, serve with melted butter and garnish with parsley. 627. TO BAKE SMELTS. Prepare as above, dress according to the receipt for soles a la Portuguese; instead however, of stressing forcemeat over them employ only bread crumbs, and moisten with clarified butter; mix in addition to the gravy a glass of Madeira, with a dash of anchovies, this must be added before the smelts are laid in. They will be done in ten minutes. 628.—trout. Scale, gut, clean, dry, and flour, fry them in butter until they are a rich clear brown, fry some green parsley crisp and make some plain melted butter, put in one tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy, and one 186 SALT AND FRESH WATER FISH. glass of white wine, garnish when the trout are dished with the crisped parsley and lemon cut in slices; the butter may be poured over the fish, but it is most advisable to send it in a butter tureen. 629. TRUITE A LA GENEVOISE. Clean the fish as above, lay them in a stewpan with two glasses of champagne, two glasses of sherry, a faggot of parsley, an onion stuck with cloves, thyme, pepper and salt, and a piece of the well baked crust of French bread, stew on a quick fire, take out the bread when the fish is done, brown it, mix in butter rolled in flour, and boil up to thicken the sauce; the fish having been taken out when done, pour over them the thickened sauce, serve with lemon sliced and fried bread. 680. TRUITE A LA PRINCESSE EOYALE. Take equal parts of Madeira and water, and let them come to a boil, having emptied, cleansed, washed and wiped perfectly dry the trout, lay them in, they should only be just covered with the liquor, they will be done in twenty minutes if not boiled too fast; take out the fish and thicken with a piece of butter rolled in flour, add two well beaten eggs with one tea-spoonful of cream to the sauce, pouring them from one vessel to another until they are of a creamy consistency, season with salt, pour the sauce upon the fish and serve. 631.—TROUT STEWED. "This is a pleasing and delicate dish when nicely stewed. It ■ dressed very much in the fashion of other small fish stewed, only that it requires perhaps more care in the different processes. First wash and clean the fish, wipe it perfectly dry, put into a stewpan two ounces of butter, dredge in as it melts flour, and add grated nutmeg, a little mace, and a little cayenne. Stew well, and when fluid and thoroughly mixed, lay in the fish which, having suffered to slightly brown, cover with a pint of veal gravy; throw in a little salt, a small faggot of parsley, a few rings of lemon peel; stew slowly forty minutes, take out the fish, strain the gravy clear and pour it over the fish; it may be strained over it, before however it is poured over, a glass of bucellas may be added to the gravy. 632.—TURBOT. Place the turbot, previously to cooking, to soak in salt and water in which a little vinegar has been poured; lay it upon its back in the fish kettle, fill the latter three parts full with cold water, throw in a handful of salt, a gill of vinegar, let it boil very gradually, and when it boils, add cold water to check; thirty minutes is sufficient to cook it; serve it upon a cloth as boiled with its back to the dish; garnish tastefully with sprigs of parsley, and horse-radish scraped into curls, or with fried smelts, or barberries, and parsley. Lobster sauce. SALT AND FRESH WATER FISH. 187 638.—FILLETS OF TURBOT.This dish is made from the fish left from the former dinner; as it is cold you can cut it in very nice shaped pieces, then place them on a dish or saute-pan with a little good stock white, the sauce as for former dishes. If maitre d*hdtel, or with oysters, leave out the parsley, and blanch and beard three dozen large oysters, and put in your prepared sauce, giving it a few minutes' boil; pour it over your fish. 634.—TURBOT A LA ROI. Put into a fish kettle two thirds water and one of wine, a cheap light French wine will suffice and will be less expensive; in France the vin ordinaire is always, unless on extraordinary occasions, em- ployed. In this mixture throw in first a faggot of sweet herbs, one large onion stuck with cloves and a few small ones, the half of a clove of garlic, a table-spoonful of pepper corns, two carrots sliced, two turnips the same, a lump of butter, salt, half a tea-spoonful of cayenne tied in muslin, stew for half an hour, strain quite clear and let it get cold for using; boil the turbot twenty minutes, and garnish with lobster sauce; a dish of cucumber sliced and dressed should be sent to table with it. 635. WATER SOUCHY. This is a dish more frequently seen upon the tables of the Black- wall and Greenwich hotels than anywhere else; it is introduced into private families, and when well cooked makes a very excellent as well as economic dish. It is composed of many kinds of small fish, and it is essential that they should be as fresh as possible. The quantity of fish must be regulated by the quantity to be sent to table ; take flounders, perch, tench, carp, very small soles, or any small fish, and clean them very carefully, removing the skin, and cut them into small pieces of equal sizes; make of fine heads of parsley a faggot, and slice half a dozen pared parsley roots into slips or cut them into rounds, put them with a handful of salt, some whole white peppers, into sufficient water to about cover the fish, simmer until the herbs are tender, put in the fish, remove the scum as fast as it appears; stew gently ten minutes. The fish must be done but not broken, this may be prevented by watching carefully, it will be the consequence of boiling too fast or being over done if it occurs, and it spoils the appearance when sent to table; you will remove the fish with a slice, keep it hot, strain the liquor, remove the pepper corns, but return the parsley and roots, have some finely chopped parsley ready, put it into the liquor, give it a boil and pour it gently over the fish, serve like white bait with bread and butter cut nicely and laid in plates, brown and white bread should be sent to table to suit the taste of the partakers; epicures prefer the former. There is another way of cooking the water souchy by pulping a portion of the fish and adding it to the liquor to strengthen it, or by 188 SALT AND FRE8H WATER FISH.boning many of the fish and stewing the bones down, using the liquor instead of water, but the above receipt will be found easy to make and exceedingly palatable. 636.—WHITINGS May be cooked as soles; they should be sent to table with tail to mouth, or passed through the eyes. 637. CURRY OF SOLES AND WRITINGS, ETC. Cut in smaller pieces than for cutlets, and proceed to make your curry as before for salmon. 638.—CUnitY OF WRITINGS. This fish must be sauteed after you have cut it in the sized pieces for your curry, then proceed exactly as before. 639. FILLETS OF WHITINGS, MA1TRE d' H6TEL. This fish is much tenderer than soles, therefore you must not beat them so hard in forming them, and be careful in turning them, proceed exactly as for the fillets of soles, and likewise the sauce. 640. QUENELLES OR PUDDINGS OF WRITINGS. This fish makes the best quenelles. Proceed exactly as for the other quenelles of white fish. 641.—WHITE BAIT. It requires considerable skill and practice to cook white bait . Respecting the necessity of its freshness there cannot be two opinions. It must not be handled; if fingers are employed the fish will be bruised, their appearance and flavour destroyed. They should be turned on to a cloth and well dredged with flour, shifting the cloth so that they may be completely covered with flour; turn them into a muslin cloth, shake them sufficiently to get rid of the superfluous flour, and then having your pan ready nearly filled with boiling lard, turn them into it and take them out again instantly, it is simply a process of scalding them, they must not be suffered to brown, put them upon a drainer and serve with sliced lemon, and brown bread and butter in slices. 642.—FISH 8ALADS. All kinds of fish left from the former days, make good salads; introduce all the articles as for fish salads, cutting the fish when cold into thin slices, and using fillets of anchovies. 643. CHICKEN SALAD. Use a former dressed chicken, sweetbread, quenelle, and truffles; dish upon salad as the former, with aspic jelly. SALT AND FRESH WATER FISH. 189 644. ITALIAN 8ALAD. Get all] the following things ready:—filleted soles, quenelles, chicken, lobster, filleted anchovies, olives pared, hard-boiled eggs, beet-root, cucumbers, lettuce, and small salad, celery, cresses. Cut up the lettuce and celery, then mix the cresses, salad, and all well together; place it in the middle of your dish, bringing it to a point at the top, then place round alternately as your fancy directs, the above edibles. Cut them into thin slices, then make the salad or Dutch sauce, pour it over the salad, introduce aspic jelly in different parts of it. 645. LOBSTER SALAD. Extract the fish from the shell, place it in the centre of the dish in which it is to be served, in the form of a pyramid; arrange the salad round tastfully, and add salad mixture. This dish is not infrequently garnished with the smallest claws of the fish. ^This is a matter of fancy—or thus:— 646. LOBSTER SALAD. Salad, &C., formed into a heap, ornamented with the claws of several lobsters. The first row is formed of cut cucumbers, the second of eggs boiled hard, and each egg split into four pieces, and the points laid round the salad; the third and bottom row is com- posed of slices of beetroot, lobster, and hake. 647. LOBSTERS, IN AN ITALIAN SALAD. Take two lobsters, cut them into pieces by taking off the claws and tail, each of which split in two; the spawn rub through a dry sieve to garnish the salad, made in the following manner; wash two or three cabbage lettuces, cut them in large shreds, slice a beet-root and cu- cumber, wash, pick, and cut into long shreds four anchovies, chop some tarragon and chervil, two boiled eggs, the yolks and whites chopped separately; if you have any cauliflowers or French beans, boil and put them with the other things to garnish, having everything prepared, place the lettuce in the centre of the dish in a heap, and place the lobsters and other things according to your taste, and just before you serve garnish with Italian salad sauce. 648.—LOBSTER SALAD. Use only a lobster, cut into some nice large pieces, rather thin: 190 SALT AND FRESHWATER FISU. use fillets of anchovies, cucumber, and bord-boiled eggs, dish upon salad, as for the former salad. 649. ANCHOVIES. Wash half a dozen anchovies, and take the meat from the bones; cut them into four fillets, place them on a dish with some sweet herbs cutjsmall, and the yolks and whites of hard eggs cut small. 650. ANCHOVY BUTTER. Wash your anchovies carefully, take out the bones and dry them, then pound them in a mortar until they are reduced to a paste, and mix this paste with double the quantity of fresh butter. 651. ANCHOVIES, ESSENCE OP. A pound of the best anchovies, two quarts of water, two bay leaves, some whole pepper, a little scraped horse-radish, a little thyme, two blades of mace, six shalots chopped small, a gill of port wine, half the rind of a lemon, a gill of ketchup, boil them together for twenty minutes, then rub them through a tammy with a wooden spoon; when cold put it into pint bottles, cork them close, and keep them in a dry place. 652. ESSENCE OFANCHOVIES. Fillet several dozen of anchovies, then chop them up fine with some of their own liquor strained, add to it a cupful of water, boil them gently until the fish is dissolved, then strain it and when cold bottle it. 653.— TOAST OF ANCHOVIES. Prepare toast; fillet some anchovies, pound them in a mortar, add a little butter well pounded into it, a little cayenne pepper, » few drops of lemon juice; take it out and spread it on the toast. 654. ANCHOVIES WITH FRIED BREAD. Cut some bread thin, then cut out with a plain patty cutter the quantity you require, as you will put one on the other; fry them in lard a very nice brown, then fillet and pound anchovies as before; add a little parsley, and a grain of shalot, rub all through a fine wire or hair sieve, spread one of your toasts rather thick, place another piece of bread on the top; have ready some more filletted anchovies, and garnish each toast, using pickles likewise, or parsley. 655. TO KNOW GOOD ANCHOVIES. The best look red and mellow, and the bones moist and oily, the flesh high flavoured, and a fine smell, if the liquor and fish become dry, add into it a little beef brine. SALT AND FRESH WATER FISH. 191 656. LOBSTER OF PRAWNS, OB CRAYFISH The same. After taking the meat from the shells quite whole and clean, set a little jelly in your plain mould to get cold, to ornament upon; filling up the mould by degrees. 657. CULLIS OF FISH. Broil a jack or pike till it is properly done, then take off the skin and separate the flesh from the bones, boil six eggs hard, and take out the yolks, blanch a few almonds, beat them to a paste in a mortar, and then add the yolks of eggs, mix this well with the butter, then put in the fish, and pound all together; take half a dozen onions, and cut them in slices, two parsnips, and three carrots, set on a stewpan, and put into it a piece of butter to brown, and put in the roots to boil, turn them till they are brown, and then pour in a little broth to moisten them; when it has boiled a few minutes strain it into another saucepan, and then put in a leek, some parsley, sweet basil, half a dozen cloves, some mushrooms, and truffles, and a few bread crumbs, when it has stewed gently a quarter of an hour put in , the fish from the mortar, let the whole stew some time longer, but be careful that it does not boil; when it is sufficiently done strain it through a coarse sieve. SAUCES. 193 663.—BECHAMEL SAUCE. Take some veal and ham, cut them into dices, some carrots, cloves, onions, laurel leaves, shalots, parsley, and scallions, all chopped fine, pepper, grated nutmeg, a little salt and butter, a little veloute and consomme, reduce it to half, and then put in some cream, mix it well with your sauce, boil it all together over a quick fire, shaking it constantly for an hour, if thick enough strain it through a sieve. 664.—BREAD SAUCE. Cut in slices the crumb of a French roll, to which add a few peppercorns, one whole onion, a little salt, and boiling milk enough to cover it, let it simmer gently by the side of the fire till the bread soaks up the milk, add a little thick cream, take out the onion, and rub the whole through a sieve, make it very hot, and serve with game or fowls. 665. BUTTER BUBNT SAUCE. Fry some butter, when it begins to smoke, throw into it some chopped parsley; when sufficiently done, add pepper, salt, and vine gar. 666.—BUTTER BURNT FOR SAUCE. "' Fry some butter over the fire in a saucepan and let it boil till it is as brown as you wish, then shake in flour stirring it all the while, then use it for any sauce that is too thin. 667-—SAUCE AU BAIN MARIE. Take thin slices of fillet of veal, ham, and beef, according to the quantity of sauce you may require, take some carrots, parsnips, parsley roots, turnips, onions, leeks, and celery also sliced, put all these into a stewpan with a few slices of bacon, cover it close and let it stew on hot ashes for some time, then add equal quantities of white wine and good broth, place the stewpan in the bain marie, and let the sauce simmer for four hours when it may be strained for use; be careful not to put so much of any single ingredient that its flavour may predominate over the others. obd.—SAUCE, BROWN. Take a pound or two of steaks, two or three pound of veal, some pickings of fowls, carrots, and onions, put all these into a saucepan with a glass of water, and set it on a brisk fire; when scarcely any moisture remains put it on a slow fire that the jelly may take colour without burning, and as soon as it is brown moisten it with stock or water, add a bunch of green onions or parsley, two bay leaves, two cloves, and some champignons, salt it well, and set it on the fire for three hours, then strain in; dilute a little roux with your liquor, and boil it an hour over a gentle fire, take off all the fat and run it through a bolting-cloth. O 194 SAUCES. (. SAUCE XV DIABLE. Mince half a dozen shalots very fine, wash, and press out all the moisture, then put them into a saucepan with a glass of vinegar, a clove of garlic, a bay leaf, and some veal glaze, reduce it to nearly a jelly, moisten it with a little good gravy, add pimento, butter, and a spoonful of olive oil. 670. SAUCE GRANDE. Take three or four slices of the under part of a knuckle of veal, and put them into a large stewpan with two ladlefuls of consomme, set it on a fierce fire, taking care to skim it as much as possible, and with a cloth wipe away all that adheres to the inside of the stewpan, when the consomme is reduced, prick the slices with a knife to let the gravy out; then set the stewpan on a slow fire, that the meat and glaze may adhere together, and as soon as the latter is of a clear light colour, take it off; leave it covered for ten minutes, then fill it up with rich stock, in which are four or five large carrots and three onions, let it boil slowly for three hours. In the meantime put the knuckle into a saucepan with four carrots, four onions, one stuck with cloves, and two ladlefuls of consomme, set it on a brisk fire that the liquor may reduce to a jelly, as soon as this jelly begins to take colour pour on it the liquor from the other saucepan, to dissolve the jelly gradually, then make it boil. Dilute some roux with the above liquor, and add to it the meat with some champignons, a bunch of parsley, scallions, and two bav-leaves, skim when it begins to boil, and again when the roux is added, put in more consomme or roux according as it is too thick, or too thin. When it has boiled an hour and a half, take off all the fat; and when the meat is quite done strain the same through a bolting-cloth. 671.—CAPER SAUCE FOR' FISH. Take some melted butter, into which throw a small bit of glaze, and when the sauce is in a state of readiness throw into it some choice capers, salt, and pepper, and a spoonful of essence of anchovyvies. 672.—CAPER SAUCE A LA FRANCAIBB. Take some capers, cut them small, put some essence of ham into a small saucepan with some pepper, let it boil, then put in the capers; let them boil two or three times, and they are ready to serve. 673.—CAPER SAUCE, TO IMITATE. Boil some parsley very slowly to let it become of a bad colour, then cut it up, but do not chop it fine, put it into melted butter, with a tea-spoonful of salt, and a dessert-spoonful of vinegar; boil up, and then serve. 674. CAPER SAUCE FOR MEAT. Take some capers, chop half of them very fine, and put the'rest in SAUCES. ] 95 whole; then chop some parsley with a little grated bread, and put to it some salt; put them into butter melted very smooth, let them boil up, and then pour them into a sauce-boat. 675.—CARP SAUCE. Cut up a carp in large bits and put it into a saucepan with a few slices of bacon, veal, ham, two onions, one carrot, and half a parsnip; soak it till it catches a little, then add a glass of white wine and good broth, a little cullis, a faggot of parsley, chervil, a clove of garlic, two of spices, and a laurel leaf; simmer for an hour, skim it well, and strain it in a sieve. 676.—calves' brains, with different sauces. Brains braised in wine or broth may be used with what sauces or ragout you please: such as fat livers, pigeons, sausages, onions, ca- pers, fried bread. They take their name from the material with which they are mixed. 677- CELERY SAUCE. Three heads of fine white celery cut into two-inch lengths, keep them so, or shred them down as straws, boil them a few minutes, strain them off, return the celery into the stewpan, put either some brown or white stock and boil it until tender, if too much liquor reduce it by boiling, then add either white or brown sauce to it, season it with sugar, cayenne, pepper, and salt. 678.—celery sauce. Cut a dozen heads of fine celery into pieces about the size of a shilling, blanch, and put them into a small stewpan with consomme- enough to cover them, a small bit of butter, a little sugar and salt, and lay a round paper over the whole; let them stew gently till nearly done, then shake them up in bechamel sauce. 679.—CHERVIL SAUCE. Put a few mushrooms, parsley, chervils, shalots, two cloves, a bay leaf, and a few tarragon leaves, into some melted butter; let them soak for some time, then add a little broth, white wine, pepper, salt, then reduce it to a proper thickness, and do not skim it; when done put in some chervil scalded and chopped; warm it all up together. oeU.—cod sauce. Take a bunch of parsley, chervil, two shalots, two cloves, a bay leaf, some mushrooms, and a bit of butter, soak all together on the fire, adding a small spoonful of flour, and milk or cream sufficient to boil to the consistence of a sauce, and add to it some chopped parsley first scalded. O 2 196 8AUCE8. 681. COURT BOUILLON, FOR ALL SORTS OP FRESH WATER FISH. Put some water into a fish-kettle, with a quart of white wine, a slice of butter, salt, pepper, a large bunch of parsley, and young onions, a clove of garlic, thyme, bay leaves, and basil, all tied together, some sliced onions and some carrots; boil the fish in this court bou- illon (which will serve for several times) and do not scale it; when the fish will admit of it, take care to boil it wrapped in a napkin, which makes it more easy to take out without danger of breaking. 682. CREAM SAUCE. Put into a stewpan a little butter, a little parsley, a few green onions and shallots, all cut small, one clove of garlic whole; turn them a few times over the fire, then add some flour, and moisten with cream or milk; let the whole boil for a quarter of an hour; strain off the sauce, and when you want it for use, put in a little butter, some parsley just scalded and chopped fine, salt, whole pepper, then thicken the same over the fire; this may be used with all kinds of dishes that are done white. 683.—CUCUMBER SAUCE. Pare two large cucumbers cut in lengths of three inches round the ends; after cutting each length into four pieces take out all the seeds, have ready a bason with vinegar and water, a little pepper and salt; as you cut them put them into the bason, let them lie a quarter of an hour, take them out, put them into a stewpan with one onion, and a little good brown stock, boil it all until nearly dry, put a few spoon- fuls of brown sauce to it, the juice of a lemon, a tea-spoonful of vinegar, a little sugar, pepper, and salt; if for fine white sauce add a gill of cream. 684.—CUCUMBER SAUCE, FOR OUTLETSOR BEEF. Two large cucumbers to be pared thin; cut them in pieces three inches long, if any seeds take them out round the ends of them, have ready in a basin half a pint of cold water, a little pepper and salt, and a cup of vinegar, and as you prepare them put them in the basin ; after remaining a little time take them out, and put them into another stewpan with a little of your best stock, boil them down to a glaze, then put some brown sauce to them, add the juice of a lemon, black pepper, sugar, and salt. 685.—CUCUMBER SAUCE. Cut four cucumbers into pieces the size of half a crown, and three quarters of an inch thick, put them into a clean cloth, and rub them well to take out the water, put a bit of butter into a stewpan, to which put the cucumber, and set them over a brisk fire taking care to shake them frequently; when they are of a good colour, put to them three large spoonfuls of veloute and two of blond, let them remain a short time on the fire. SAUCES. 197 686.—Dutchsauce, or hollaxdaise sauce. Place in astewpan somescraped horse-radish, a sprig of thyme,a small onion, ana two shalots, with sufficient vinegar to extract the essence of them; keep thelid on the stewpan while stooping. Hare ready in another stewpan two yolks of raw eggs, with a smallpiece of butterabout two ounces, and two table-spoonfuls of plain melted butter;when the roots are well rundown, throw them into the other stewpan, put it on the fire, and stir till hot, do not let it boil, pass it through a tammy, and serve up, or pour over your fish or whatever it may he required for. 687.—BEL SAUCE. Cutthe eels into large pieces and putthem into a stewpan with a few slices of bacon, ham, veal, two onions, with all sorts of roots, soak it till it catches, then add a glass of white wine and good broth, a little cullis, three or four tarragon leaves, chervil, a clove of garlic, two of spices, and a bay leaf; simmer for an hour, skim it very well, and sift it in a sieve for use. -EGG SAUCE. Boil three eggs hard, cut them in small squares, and mix them in good butter sauce, make it very hot, and squeeze in some lemon juice before you serve it. 689.—ENDIVE FOR SAUCE OR A PUREE. Prepare at first as the above; cut them into small pieces, sweat them with butter, then add some good stock to stew them in, but if for a puree you must have many more, and when well stewed pass it with spoons through a tammy; add some good bechamel or brown «sauceto it, season as before. 690. FENNEL SAUCE. Take as many branches of green fennel as you may require; pick and wash it in the same manner as parsley; chop it very small, scald and then lay it on a sieve to cool; put two spoonfuls of veloute, and the same of butter sauce into a saucepan, make them quite hot, take care to stir it well that they may be properly mixed, rub the fennel in a little butter, and then throw it into the sauce; mix it in thoroughly, and season it with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. 691.—FRESH PORK SAUCE. Cuttwo or three good sized onions into slices, and fry them lightly, then add two spoonfuls of cullis, a little broth, a few mushrooms chopped, a clove of garlic, vinegar, and spice; let it boil half an hour, reduce to a proper consistence, skim and strain it. 198 SAUCE3. 692.-~GARLIC SAUCE. Three or four garlics, divided and boiled in a little white vinegar and white stock, with a small piece of lean ham; when reduced, strain it off, and add either white or brown sauce to the liquor; season with salt, pepper, and sugar; leave out the vinegar. 693.—GARLIC SAUCE. Take two cloves of garlic, and pound them with a piece of fresh butter about the size of a nutmeg, roll it through a double hair sieve, and stir it into half a pint of melted butter or beef gravy, or make it with garlic vinegar. 694. GOOSEBERRY SAUCE. Take two handfuls of half ripe gooseberries, open them, and take out the seeds, blanch them in a little salt and water, and drain them; put two spoonfuls of veloute, and the same of butter sauce into a saucepan, mix them together well, and heat them, throw in the gooseberries, stir them well, season the sauce according to taste, with salt, pepper, and nutmeg; this sauce is eaten with boiled mackerel; fennel may be added or not at pleasure. 695.—HAM SAUCE. When a ham is almost done with, pick all the meat that remains from the bone, leaving out any rusty part; beat the meat and bone to a mash with the rolling-pin, put it into a saucepan with three spoon- fuls of gravy, set it over a slow fire, and keep stirring it all the time to prevent its sticking to the bottom; when it has been on some time put to it it small bundle of sweet herbs, some pepper, and half a pint of veal gravy, cover it up, and let it stew over a gentle fire, when it has it good flavour of the herbs, strain off the gravy. A little of this is an improvement to all gravies. 696. HERBS, FINE SAUCE OF. Work up a piece of butter in some flour, melt it, and then put to it the following herbs :—shred parsley, scallions, tarragon, borage, garden cress, chervil; boil them all together for about a quarter of an hour, add a glass of stock, and serve it very hot. 697.—HORSERADISH SAUCE, HOT. Slice two onions and fry them in oil, and when they begin to colour, put them into a saucepan with a glass of white wine, the same of broth, two slices of lemon peeled^ two cloves of garlic, a bay leaf, thyme, basil, and two cloves, boil these a quarter of an hour, and then strain it; add capers and an anchovy chopped, pepper, salt, and a spoonful of horseradish boiled to a pulp, warm the whole without boiling. SAUCES. 199 698.—-HORSERADISH SAUCE, COLD. Chop up some parsley, chervil, shalots, a clove of garlic, capers,- and anchovies; to these add a spoonful of horseradish scraped very fine, a spoonful of oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt 699.—ITALIAN SAUCE. Put some good brown sauce in a stewpan, add to it some chopped, prepared mushroom, some chopped parsley and shalot, the juice of a lemon, a little sugar, pepper, and salt, boil it for a few minutes. 700.—LAMB SAUCE. Roll a piece of butter in bread crumbs, shred parsley, and shalots, and boil it in a little stock and white wine, equal quantities, a few minutes are sufficient, squeeze in a little lemon or orange juice. 701. LEMON SAUCE, WHITE, FOR BOILED FOWLS. Put the peel of a small lemon cut very thin into a pint of sweet rich cream, with a sprig of lemon, thyme, and ten white peppercorns. Simmer it gently till it tastes well of the lemon, then strain it and thicken it with a quarter of a pound of butter rubbed in a dessertspoonful of flour, boil it up; then pour the juice of the lemon strained into it, stirring well; dish the fowls, and then mix a little white gravy quite hot with the cream, but do not boil them together; add salt according to taste. 702. LEMON SAUCE FOR BOILED FOWLS. Cut small slices of lemon into very small dice, and put them into melted butter, give it one boil, and pour it over boiled fowls 703. LEMON SAUCE. Pare a lemon and cut it into slices, take out the seeds, and chop, it small, boil the liver of a fowl, and bruise it: mix these in a little gravy, then melt some butter, put in the liver, and add a little of the peel chopped fine. 704.— LIVER SAUCE. Take the livers of poultry or game, chop them very small with parsley, scallions, tarragon leaves, and shalots; soak them in a little butter over the fire, and then pound them, add cullis stock, pepper and salt. Give the whole a boil with two glasses of red wine, coriander, cinnamon, and sugar, reduce and strain it, thicken with a bit of butter rolled in flour, serve it in a sauce boat 705. LIVER SAUCE FOR BOILED CHICKENS. Boil the livers till you can bruise them with the back of a spoon; mix them in a little of the liquor they were boiled in, melt some 200 SAUCES. butter very smooth and put to them, add a little grated lemon peel, and boil all up together. '706. LIVER AND PARSLEY SAUCE. Wash the liver, which should be quite fresh, of a fowl or rabbit, and boil it for ten minutes in five tea-spoonfuls of water, chop it fine, pound it or bruise it in a small quantity of the liquor it was boiled in, and rub it through a hair sieve; wash about one third its bulk of parsley leaves, boil them in a little boiling water with a little salt in it, lay it on a sieve to drain, and chop it very fine, mix it with the liver, and put it to a quarter of a pint of melted butter, and warm it up; do not let it boil. 707. OYSTER SAUCE FOR ENTREES. ~ Blanch the oysters in their own liquor, then make a white roux, to which add a few small onions, mushrooms, parsley, and scallions; moisten with some of the oyster liquor, and a ladleful or two of consomme, set it on a brisk fire, and when reduced add a 'pint of cream, season it, let the sauce be tolerably thick, strain it through a sieve, put in the oysters, and use it with those articles where:it is required, such as fowl, turkey, and chicken; if served with fish, essence of anchovies must be added to the above ingredients. 708.—LOBSTER SAUCE. "" Found the coral, pour upon it two spoonfuls of gravy, strain it into some melted butter, then put in the meat of the lobster, give it all one boil, and add the squeeze of a lemon; you may "ifyou please add two anchovies pounded. 709.—LOBSTER SAUCE ANOTHER RECEIPT. Put the spawn of a lobster into a mortar with a bit of butter, and we'llpound it, then rub it through a fine sieve, put some butter sauce into a stewpan, and the spawn of the lobster; set it on the fire till it is very hot, and looks quite smooth and red, if not smooth, pass it through a tammy; then put in the meat of the lobster cut into small dices, make it very hot, squeeze in a little lemon juice, and serve. 710. LINTELS. Proceed as for the former sauce, be careful you do not mash them. 711. MINT SAUCE. Take some nice fresh mint, chop it very small, and mix it with vinegar and sugar. . 712.—MA1TRE D'HOTEL SAUCE, FOR FISH. Have some parsley finely chopped, and a small shallot,put them in SAUCE8. 201 a stewpan with a small piece of butter, sweat them over the fire, dry up the butter with flour, then add some of your best stock, or white sauce, with a little ham; pass it through the tammy, season the last thing with lemon, a dust of sugar, cayenne pepper, and salt, and if you have any fish stock you will reduce it down and add it to it. 713. MUSHROOM SAUCE. Cut some mushrooms into pieces, press them in a cloth, and then mince them; do them up in a little melted butter, then add some good stock parsley, scallions,' two cloves of garlic; skim and cook them over a moderate fire for half an hour, strain, take off the fat, and serve it very hot. 714. MUSHROOM WHITE SAUCE. Have ready some cream sauce rather thinner than usual, to this put a few small white mushrooms, reduce it to the proper consistence, it is then ready. 715. MUSHROOM SAUCE, BROWN AND WHITE. Get a pottle of fresh mushrooms not opened, or coloured in the inside, cut off all the dirty ends, have two basins ready with a little water, salt, and the juice of two lemons; then pare or trim your mushrooms, putting the mushrooms in one water and the parings in the other; when all done put about two ounces of butter in a stewpan, take your mushrooms out of the water and put them into the other stewpan, cover them over, and let them stew for sometime; then put them by ready for use, then take out the parings after washing them well, and chop them very fine, then sweat them down in a little butter; when done put them in the larder until wanted. This comes in for Italian sauces, and various other things. 716.—MUSHROOM SAUCE A L'eSPAGNOLE. Put two ladlefuls of brown consomme, commonly called espagnole, into a stewpan with two ladlefuls of sauce tournee, and some mush- rooms; reduce it over the fire to the thickness of the sauce you put in at first, then stir in a piece of butter, the juice of half a lemon, and a very small quantity of cayenne pepper. 717.—MUSTARD SAUCE. Put two glasses of stock, shalots shred small, salt and pepper, into a saucepan, let them boil for half an hour, then add a tea-spoonful of mustard, stir it in well, and use it when required. 718.—ORANGE SAUCE. Put into a stewpan half a glass of stock, the same of gravy, a ■lice of ham, some small pieces of orange peel, about half an ounce 202 SAUCES. of butter rolled in flour, salt and pepper; simmer these over the fire till thick, and then add the juice of an orange. 719. ORANGE BITTER SAUCE. Pare two bitter oranges very thin, blanch the rinds, and then put them into a rich espagnole reduced; add a small piece of sugar, and season it well; just before serving squeeze in the juice of one of the oranges and part of a lemon. 720. ORANGE GRAVY 8ATTCE. Put half of veal gravy into a saucepan, add to it half a dozen basil leaves, a small onion, a roll of orange or lemon peel, and let it boil for a few minutes, and strain it off; put to the clear gravy, the juice of a Seville orange or lemon, half a tea-spoonful of salt, the same quantity of pepper, and a glass of red wine, serve it hot; shalot and cayenne may be added. 721.—ONION SAUCE. The onions must be pealed, and then boiled till they are tender, then squeeze the water from them, chop them, and add butter that has been melted, rich and smooth, with a little good milk instead of water; give it one boil, serve it with boiled rabbits, partridges, scrag or knuckle of veal, or roast mutton ; a turnip boiled with the onions draws out the strength. I 722. ONIONSAUCE, BROWN. Peel and dice the onions, some put an equal, quantity of cu- cumber and of celery, into a quart stewpan, with an ounce of butter; set it over a slow fire, and turn the onion about till it is slightly browned, then gradually stir in half an ounce of flour, add a little broth, and a little pepper and salt, boil up for a few minutes; add a table-spoonful of claret, or port wine, and mushroom ketchup; you may add, if you think proper, lemon juice or vinegar, and rub it through a tammy or fine sieve. 723.—OYSTERSAUCE. In opening the oysters, save the liquor, and boil it with the beards, a bit of mace, and lemon peel; in the meantime throw the oysters into cold- water, and drain it off, strain the liquor, and put it into a sauce- pan with the oysters just drained from the cold water, with sufficient quantity of butter, mixed with as much milk as will make enough sauce, but first rub a little flour with it; set them over the fire, and stir all the while, and when the butter has boiled a few times, take them off, and keep them close to the fire, but not upon it, for if too much done, the oysters will become hard; add a squeeze of lemon 'uice, and serve; a little is a great improvement. 8A.USES. 203 724.—OYSTER SAUCE FOR BEEF STEAKS. Blanch a pint of oysters, and preserve their liquor, then wash, and beard them, and put their liquor into a stewpan with India soy and ketchup, a small quantity of each, a gill of cullis, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter; set them over a fire, and when they nearly boil, thicken with flour and water, season according to taste with a little cayenne pepper, salt, and lemon juice, strain it to the oysters, and stew them gently five minutes. 725.—PARSLEY SAUCE. Take a handful of parsley, and having washed and picked, pound it well, and put it into a stewpan with some good cullis, set it on the fire, and let it simmer a quarter of an hour, then strain; add a bit of butter rolled in flour, a liaison, and a little lemon juice. 726.—PUREE OF CUCUMBER SAUCE. All puree sauces, after having drawn whatever it is to be, down, until a pass into some good white or brown stock, according to whether for white or brown sauce, then rub it through a tammy, then add either your bechemel or codlin sauce to it, sufficient for what you want, season it with cayenne pepper, a dust of sugar and salt, ff a puree from any hard substance such as mushrooms, truffles, chestnuts, &C., you must pound them well before you rub them through the tammy; pare and take out the seeds of two or three old cucumbers, cut them into pieces into a stewpan, with an onion and a few pieces of ham cut in small dice, and just cover them with some good stock, either white or brown, and the juice of a lemon, pepper and salt, and sugar, when tender rub them through a tammy, add some of your thick bechemel or brown sauce to it. 727- PURER OF ONIONS. Cut up several onions, put them to boil, in a few minutes strain them off, return them into the stewpan and boil them until quite tender in milk and water, then pass them through a tammy, thicken it with flour and butter, add to it a little bechemel sauce, and a gill of cream according to the quantity you may require, either for a remove dish, a flank dish, or an entree. 728. ROBERT SAUCE, USED MOSTLY FOR PORK. Cut up one onion in small dice, a piece of butter, fry it a nice light brown, add a teaspoonful of mustard, a little flour, two table- spoonfuls of vinegar, the juice of lemon, cayenne pepper and salt, and sugar; a little good bacon stock, boil it all well, pass it through a tammy cloth. 729. REMOULADE. Put some mustard into a basin and mix it up with some water, add to this a little shalot, and ravigote both shred, six spoonfuls of 204 SAUCES. oil, four of vinegar, some salt, and whole pepper, mix them well in, and then put in the yolks of two raw eggs, and continue stirring until the sauce is very thick. 730.—ROUX. Put a pound of batter into a saucepan, keep it shaken, until dissolved, add sifted flour, until it is of the consistence of a moderately thick bouilli; set it over a very hot stove, or brisk fire, until it begins to colour, it must increase, until of a clear light brown; set it by for use. 731.—ROUX WHITE. This is prepared as before, but should be placed on a slow fire or stove until very hot, being kept stirred; it must not be allowed to colour at all. 732.—SALAD SAUCE. Rub the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs into a basin, add to it a table-spoonful of made mustard, then add three table-spoonfuls of salad oil, mix it in smooth; add white pepper, cayenne, and salt, and dust of sugar, five spoonfuls of thick bechamel, a table-spoonful of tarragon vinegar, the same of Chili vinegar, and two spoonfuls of common vinegar; mix all well together with half a gill of cream. If this sauce is required for fish-salads, add a few drops of essence of anchovies, and sprinkle over the sauce a little fine-chopped parsley the last thing. 733.—sauce a l'allemande. Put a slice of ham and some champignons previously dressed and shred into a stewpan, set it on the fire, and when the ham begins to stick, moisten it with stock and consomme; boil and reduce it, then take off the fat, strain the sauce, and add to it some scalded parsley, two fat livers, capers, anchovies, scallions, all chopped, add a bit of butter, put it again on the fire, and when of the requisite consistency take out the scallions and put in some magnonnaise, and lemon juice, and strain it for use. 734. SAUCB A LA MADELAINE. Put a few bread crumbs, two shred shalots, a bit of butter, half a spoonful of vinegar, and two spoonfuls of consomme into a stewpan, set them on the fire and give them a boil up together; season with pepper and salt. This sauce should not be too thick. 735.—SAUCE AUX ATELETS. Put some veloute or a bit of butter, into a stewpan with some parsley, scallions, and champignons, all shred small, set them on the fire, and when they begin to fry add a little stock, flour, pepper, nut- meg, a bay leaf, and salt, reduce the whole to a consistence of a bouille, take out the bay leaf, put in the yolks of three eggs, and stir till sufficiently thick; be careful not to let it boil. SAUCES. 205 736. SAUCE, HARVEY. Chop twelve anchovies, bones and all, very small, with one ounce of cayenne pepper, six spoonfuls of soy, six ditto of good walnut pickle, three heads of garlic chopped not very small, a quarter of an ounce of cochineal, two heads of shallots chopped rather large, one gallon of vinegar; let it stand fourteen days, stir it well twice or thrice every day, then pass it through a jelly bag, and repeat this till it is quite clear; then bottle it, and tie a bladder over the cork. 737-—saucb (Italian) for salads. Mix together three table-spoonfuls of sauce tournee, one of mus- tard, some tarragon and chervil shred small, with three table- spoonfuls of Florence oil; putting in, however, a little at a time; when perfectly smooth, add also, by degrees, a glass of tarragon vinegar, and a little salt. This sauce cannot be too much mixed. 738. SAUCE MINCED. Put into a saucepan parsley, shalots, champignons, of each a spoon- ful shred, half a glass of vinegar, and a little pepper; set these on the fire till there remains scarcely any vinegar, then add four ladlefuls of espagnole, and the same of stock; reduce and take the fat from the sauce. When done, put in a spoonful of capers, two gherkins shred, pour it into another saucepan, and set it in the bain marie; just before it is sent to table pound an anchovy or two with a little butter which beat up with the sauce. 739. SAUCE PICjUANTE. Put into a saucepan a quarter of a pint of vinegar, some allspice, a pinch of pepper, a bay-leaf, and a little thyme; let this remain on the fire till reduced to half, then add two ladlefuls of espagnole, and two of stock, set it on the fire again, when about the consistence of clear bouilli it is sufficiently done; put salt according to taste. 740.—SAUCE, ROBERT. Cut a few onions into dice, which put into a fryingpan with a bit of butter, and fry them lightly; when nicely browned, add a dessert spoonful of flour, a ladleful of stock, the same of vinegar, some salt, and pepper; reduce it to a proper thickness, and when ready for table stir in two dessert-spoonfuls of mustard. 741. SAUCE, ROMATNE. Cut a pound of veal, and half a pound of ham into dice, and put them into a saucepan, with two legs of fowls, three or four carrots, four onions, two bay leaves, three cloves, a little basil, half a pound of butter, and some salt; set these on rather a brisk fire. In the meanwhile, pound the yolks of twelve hard eggs to a paste, which put to the above, and stir them in until the butter is melted; then pour in by degrees a quart of cream, set the saucepan again on the fire for an hour and a half, stirring all the time; if it be too thick add more cream, or milk, when sufficiently done strain through a bolting-cloth. 206 SAUCES. 742.—SAUCE, SPANISH. Take the meat from a cold roasted partridge, put it into a mortar, with partridge livers and truffles; pound them to rather a liquid paste, moistening with some good gravy, two glasses of red wine, two slices of onions, a clove or two of garlic, and two glasses of the paste; make it quite hot, and then strain it into another stewpan; add the partridge to it, and a little essence of ham, season it well, and let it boil well for sometime. 743. SAUCE SUPREME. Put one ladleful of veloute and four of essence of fowl into a saucepan, set in on the fire, and when reduced to half put in a tea- spoonful of parsley shred small and scalded, a little fresh butter, the juice of a lemon, and some pepper; place it on the fire and make it quite hot, but not boiling, Tanner it well, and serve quickly. f' 744. SOUFFLE SAUCE. Take eight truffles, clean and cut them round, and then cut them in thin slices into a stewpan; set them to stew very gently with a small bit of butter. When well stewed add two table-spoonfuls of consomme, and let it simmer till nearly done, then put in some beche- mel sauce—the quantity must be regulated according to what you want it for. Make it very hot, squeeze in a little lemon juice, it is then ready. If you wish the sauce brown, put in espagnole instead of bechemel sauce. 745. SORREL SAUCE. Wash some sorrel, squeeze it into B stewpan with an onion, four cloves, a piece of fat and lean ham, cover it over and put it over a slow fire; when drawn down rub the sorrel through a fine hair sieve, add cream and a little white sauce, sugar, salt, and pepper. 746.—SPINACH SAUCE. Let your spinach be well washed and picked, and boiled very freen, strain it off, and rub it through a wire sieve; add to it echemel, a piece of butter, half a gill of cream, a little sugar, salt and pepper. 747.—SUPERIOR SAUCE FOR PLUM PUDDING.Mix six yolks of eggs with four spoonfuls of sifted sugar and but- ter mixed together; have a pint of boiling cream which you will mix with your yolks, afterwards put it on the fire and stir it until it is of the consistency of sauce, then add to it it good wine-glass of brandy. 748.—TARRAGON SAUCE. Extract from some green tarragon by putting it into some second SAUCES. 207 stock, reducing it gently; then strain it off, nnd add some bechemel to the liquor, and a little finely-chopped tarragon, in some leaves, blanched and put into the sauce. Season with sugar, salt, and cayenne pepper. 749. TARRAGON SAUCE. Put two table-spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar into a saucepan, and reduce it to half the quantity, then put to it six spoonfuls of good butter sauce and mix all well together, and if not sufficiently strong put to it a little bit of glaze, and a very little more tarragon vinegar. 750. TOMATO SAUCE. Fresh tomatos, take out stalk, press them all tightly down in a stewpan, cover them, put them on the fire, strain off the liquor that is drawn from them, add to the tomato's a slice of raw ham, two shalots, a few spoonfuls of good stock, let it stew for an hour, then rub it through a tammy sieve. Have in another stewpan a little good brown sauce, put your tomato into it, boil all together, season with cayenne, salt, sugar, and lemon juice. 751. SAUCE rrALTENNE. Put some lemon thyme, parsley, and mushrooms, shred small and fine, into a stewpan, with a little butter and a clove of garlic, set it on a moderate fire, as soon as the butter begins to fry, pour in R little consomme, and let it stew till pretty thick, then take out the garlic, add some butter sauce and a little lemon juice. 752.—SAUCE, SWEET. Put some cinnamon into a saucepan with as much water as will cover it, set it on the fire, and when it has boiled up once or twice, add two spoonfuls of pounded sugar, a quarter of a pint of white wine, and two bay leaves, give the whole one boil, and then strain it for table. 753.—SAUCE, UNIVERSAL. Take half a dozen split shalots, a clove of garlic, two bay leaves, basil, thyme, truffles, tarragon leaves, half an ounce of bruised mus- tard seed, some Seville orange peel, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, the same of mace, double the quantity of long pepper, and two ounces of salt; put all these ingredients to infuse in the juice of a lemon, half a glass of verjuice, four or five spoonfuls of vinegar, and a pint of white wine, put them into a jar, cover it as closely as pos- sible, set it on hot ashes for twenty-four hours, at the end of that time let it stand to settle, and when clear pour it off, strain, and bottle it. 754. SAUCE, WHITE. Beat up a quarter of a pound ot butter and a tea-spoonful of 208 SAUCES. flour, season with salt and pepper; when well worked up add a dessert-spoonful of vinegar, and a little water, set these on the fire and stir it till thick, be careful not to let it boil. , 755.—SAUCE, WHITE FISH. Simmer together an anchovy, a little horseradish scraped, some mace, an onion stuck with cloves, a piece of lemon peel, a glass of white wine, and a quarter of a pint of water; when properly reduced Strain it, and then add two spoonfuls of cream, a piece of butter rolled in flour, set it on the fire and keep stirring till it boils; when ready to serve put in a little lemon juice and ketchup. 756.—SHBIMP SAUCE. Put half a pint of picked shrimps into a stewpan with some butter sauce and a very little essence of anchovy, make it very hot, add a little lemon juice, and serve it to table. 757.—SHRIMP SAUCB ANOTHER RECEIPT. Mix a good piece of butter with some flour, boil it up in a little rich gravy, put in the shrimps nicely picked, give the whole one boil. 758.—TAMATO SAUCE FRANCHISE. Cut ten tomatoes into quarters and put them into a saucepan with four onions sliced, a little parsley, thyme, one clove, and a quarter of a pound of butter; set the saucepan on the fire, stirring occasionally, for three quarters of an hour; strain the sauce through a horse-hair sieve, and serve with the directed articles. 759. TOMATOS, GARNITURE OF. Take thirty tomatos, all as near of a size as possible and of a good form, cut them in halves, press out the juice, seeds, and pieces by the side of the stalk, but do it with great care lest the skins should be injured; make a farce as follows:—take a little ham, garlic, parsley, shalots, champignons shred, the yolks of two hard boiled eggs, crumb of bread, an anchovy, butter, salt, nutmeg, and allspice, give all these a boil, then pound them well, adding at times a little oil, strain it through a quenelle sieve; fill the tomatos with this farce, place them on a baking tin, cover them with grated bread crumbs and Parmesan cheese, moisten them with a little oil, and bake them in a hot oven; serve the tomatos as a garnish to a rump of beef, or any other joint you may think proper. 760. TOMATO SAUCE A L'lTALIENNE. Take five or six ounces, slice, and put them into a saucepan with a little thyme, bay leaf, twelve tomatos, a bit of butter, salt, half a SAUCES. 209 dozen allspice, a little Indian saffron, and a glass of stock; set them on the fire, taking care to stir it frequently, as it is apt to stick; when you perceive the sauce is thick strain it like a puree. 761- TRUFFLE SAUCE. Mince two or three truffles very small, and toss them up tightly in either oil or butter, according to taste; then put to them four ladle- spoonfuls of veloute, and a spoonful of consomme, let it boil for about a quarter of an hour over a gentle fire, skim all the fat off, keep your sauce hot in the bain marie. 762. TURNIP SAUCE. Pare four turnips and let them simmer in a little water until done, and the liquor is reduced; then rub them through a sieve. Add to them a little bechemel, then cut some more turnips in shapes as for haricot, simmer them also the same as the first and then add them to the others. 763. VENISON SAUCE, Serve with venison, currant-jelly by itself, or warmed with port wine, or port wine warmed by itself. 764. WALNUT KETCHUP FOR FISH SAUCE. Take a quart of walnut pickle, add to it a quarter of a pound of anchovies, and three quarters of a pint of red wine, and let it boil till reduced to one third, then strain it, and when cold put it into small bottles and keep them closely corked. 765. WINE MADEIRA SAUCE. Take a tea-spoonful of flour, and a preserved green lemon cut into dice, mix them with a glass of Madeira wine, and a little consomme, an ounce of butter, some salt and nutmeg, set them on to boil for a quarter of an hour, then take it off, put in a quarter of a pound of butter, set it on the fire, stirring it until the butter is melted. 766.—GRATIN. Put in a stewpan with a piece of butter half a pound of fillet of veal cut into dice, mushrooms, parsley, shallots chopped fine, salt, pepper, and spice, stir them up with a wooden spoon, and when the meat has been on the fire a quarter of an hour drain off the butter, mince it very small and put into a mortar with fifteen fawn or game livers, well washed and parboiled, all the bitter parts taken out and pounded, adding at times as much granada as you have meat; boil some calf-udders, trim and remove all the skin when cold, add just about a third the quantity of meat and pound them together, adding, one at a time, three yolks, three whole eggs, P 210 SAUCES. season with salt, pepper, and spice, when well pounded set it by in an earthen pan for use. 767.—RISSOLES OF ALL KINDS. Chop some dressed chicken or veal very fine, fry a little chopped parsley, shallot, and mushrooms, very fine, and a little slice of tongue or ham or not, fry them in one ounce of butter a few minutes, stirring it with a wooden spoon all the time; dry the butter up with flour, then add a few small spoonfuls of good veal stock, a gill of cream, three spoonfuls of bechemel sauce; now put in all your chopped meat, and a little sugar, a few drops of lemon juice, cayenne pepper and salt, and the yolks of three eggs, boil all well until quite stiff, take it out of your stewpan on to a dish to get cold; when cold form them into a shape, either as pears or long balls, using bread crumbs to form them, put them to get cold; in the meantime break two eggs in a basin, and then egg the forms once or twice, and bread crumb them, have your fat quite hot to fry them, which you will know in another place in the book, dish them on a napkin with fried parsley. 768. FARCEOF VEAL, OR FOWL. Cut up a fowl, or some veal, form the fillet into small dice, cut in the same quantity of good fat ham cut small, and a few truffles, a little parsley, shalots, and a little of all kinds of fine sweet herbs, and a few chopped mushrooms, and one blade of mace, three cloves, put it all in a stewpan to draw down, with half a pound of butter for one hour; season it, add bread crumbs to dry up the fat, then put it into your mortar and pound it very fine, then rub it through a wire sieve, return it back into the mortar, and work in three or four eggs, leaving out one or two whites; mix it well up together, and put it into the larder until required. If you want any green, colour some with prepared spinach juice; this will do for all cold pies, or game, or filling turkeys, or boned fowls, or galantine. You may make this farce with dressed meat, then you must not place it to draw down on the fire; all the rest the same, only truffles, and mushrooms as well as the rest must be first dressed. 769.—FARCES AND STUFFINGS. A veal stuffing. Chop some suet fine, a little parsley, a small piece of shalot, rub through a dry sieve a small quantity of basil, knotted marjoram, thyme, add these to your suet, a grating of half a lemon, a few grains of nutmeg, a few bread crumbs, and one or two eggs, mix all well up together, season with pepper and salt. "If for game, scrape the raw livers into the stuffing, prepared as above, only in addition pound it all fine. 770. FOliCEMEAT INGREDIENTS. Forcemeat meat should be made to cut with a knife, but not dry SAUCES. 211 or heavy, no one flavour should predominate; according to what it is wanted for a choice may be made from the following list; be careful to use the least of those articles that are most pungent, cold fowl or veal or ham, scraped fat bacon, beef suet, crumbs of bread, parsley, white pepper, salt, nutmeg, yolks and whites of eggs beaten to bind the mixture. Any of the following articles may be used to alter the taste; oysters, anchovies, tarragon, savory, pennyroyal, marjoram, thyme, basil, yolks of hard eggs, cayenne, garlic, shalots, endives, Jamaica pepper in powder, or *o. 978. CHARLOTTE A LA PARISIENNE. Of well glazed spoon biscuits take four ounces cut in thin slices, and then into lozenges, a case of green pistachio biscuits; at the bottom of a plain octagon mould arrange these pieces in the form of a star. With the pieces left line the inside of the mould, putting the pieces upright, the glazed side being turned next to the mould; fill up the interior with a vanilla fromage bavarois, but this must not be done until it is just ready to send to table, cover the fromage with biscuits, surround the mould with pounded ice, let it remain three quarters of an hour and then turn it on to a dish and serve. 979-—CHARLOTTE A LA RUSSE. Meringues, with pools of jam. 980. CITRON PUDDING. Take a pint of cream and the yolks of six eggs, beat them together, add four ounces of sugar, the same of citron shred fine, two spoon- fuls of flour, and a little nutmeg. Place this mixture in a^decp dish, bake it in a quick oven, and turn it out. 981.—CURRANT PUDDING. Take a pound of currants, a pound of suet, five eggs, four spoonfuls of flour, half a nutmeg, a tea-spoonful of ginger, a little powdered sugar, and a little salt. Boil this for three hours. 982. CHERRY PUDDING. Line a well-buttered basin with a paste made of butter, or suet chopped small, rubbed into flour, put in picked cherries, cover^ the top with a crust and boil it. Fruit puddings may be boiled in a cloth without a basin. PASTUY. 259 983. ANOTHER WAY. Make a plain batter pudding, but rather thicker, and with more eggs than for plain boiling, place in picked cherries, taking care not to break them, and boil it in a cloth. 984.—CURD PUDDING, BOILED. Take the curd of two gallons of milk well-drained, rub it through a sieve, and mix it with six eggs, a little cream, two spoonfuls of orange flower water, half a nutmeg grated, three spoonfuls of flour, the same of bread crumbs, half a pound of currants, and the same of raisins stoned. Boil it for an hour in a thick cloth well floured. 98/5. CARROT PUDDING. Take a large carrot, boil it soft, bruise it in a marble mortar, and mix with it a spoonful of biscuit powder, four yolks and two whites of eggs, a pint of cream, a large spoonful of rose or orange flower water, a quarter of a nutmeg, two ounces of sugar and a little ratafia; bake it in a shallow dish, turn it out and serve with sugar over. 986.—DAMSON PUDDING. Line a basin with paste, fill it with ripe or bottled damsons, cover it with paste, boil it, and when ready to serve cut a piece out of the top, put in sifted sugar. 987. FOWL PUDDING A LA REINE. Take the breast and fleshy parts of three or four cold roast fowls, cut them into dice of an equal size and rather small, put these dice into a reduction of veloute, season them well, then turn them into a dish to cool; as soon as quite cold divide it into two equal parts which make into puddings of an oval or long shape the size of the dish, roll them in crumbs of bread, cover them on both sides with egg, and roll once more in the crumbs of bread, see that the ends are well covered with crumbs or they will break. Fry them a good colour, drain them dry with a clean soft towel, serve with a thin veloute, or green parsley fried. 988. GAME PUDDING. Take a number of larks, thrushes, quails, or any small birds suffi- cient to make a good sized pudding; pick and truss them, fry them in butter with some sweet herbs, some salt, and pepper. Make a thick good paste, put in the game, close it round, tie in a cloth, put it into boiling water, let it boil an hour, take it out, open the crust, pour in some good cullis or eipagnole, and serve hot. 989.—GOOSEBERRY PUDDING. (BAKED.) Take a pint of green gooseberries, scald them, and rub them through a sieve, add half a pound of sugar, the same of butter, three Naples S 2 260 PASTRY. biscuits, and four eggs well beaten; mix the ingredients well together, and bake for half an hour. 990.—HEDGEHOG—TO MAKE. Blanch two pounds of sweet almonds, pound them to a paste in a mortar, moisten occasionally with canary and orange flower water; beat the yolks of twelve and the whites of five eggs with a pint of cream and some powdered sugar, put this with the almond paste and half a pound of fresh butter into a saucepan, set it over a stove and keep it constantly stirring till firm enough to be moulded into the shape of a hedgehog; stick it full of blanched almonds cut lengthwise into slips and placed in a dish; beat up the yolks of four eggs, put them to a pint of cream, sweeten to your taste, stir them over a slow fire till hot, then pour it round the hedgehog and let it stand till cold, serve it. A good calf' s foot jelly may be poured round it if preferred. 991.—ROYAL HARTS Are of the first mixture, the moulds are rather deep, and the shape of a hart, well butter them with clarified butter, after having stirred in your flour sprinkle into it a table-spoonful of ground rice, fill your moulds and bake them directly, sugar the tops. 992.—ICK PUDDINGS. Make a good custard, boiling into it a stick of vanilla, sweeten it, when cold take out the vanilla; if the custard is not quite smooth strain it, then add half a pint of cream, a gill of Noyeau or Mares- chino, the juice of a lemon, and a good glass of jelly if you have it, or a little boiled isinglass; then put it into your pudding mould. After having put it through the freezing process as for your dessert ices, dish it on a napkin. 993. ANOTOER ICE PUDDING. Make a custard as before, season this with rum, and mix currants before you take it out of the freezer. 994. A DIFFERENT ICE PUDDING. Make a custard with a stick of vanilla (if vanilla is liked), if not, with peach kernels, brandy, and white wine, and all kinds of dried fruits, or from syrups cut in small dice, and a few currants and dried cherries; add half a pint of cream and a little lemon juice. 995.—ICE PUDDING WITH MARMALADE. The only difference from the last, instead of the cut fruits, put into your mould, in layers, apricot jam, strawberry jam, and currant jelly, at different times, but do not let it be seen on the outside of the pudding. PASTRY.996.—A LEMON ICE PUDDING.Whip up half a pint of double cream, have ready half an ounce of boiled isinglass, a quarter of a pint of good thick custard, a tumbler of good Noyeau; proceed with the cream in adding them together as you do in other -whip-creams; have a high mould for it; as you put it in the mould sprinkle dried cherries into it; when full, put it in your ice to freeze, let it remain till quite washed. Garnish your Sish with clear jelly and ratafia biscuits. Turn it out with lukewarm water. To prepare your ice. &c. To freeze, break your ice small, and be- tween every layer of ice you put round the mould add a handful of suet. Beat it down tight to the mould. 997. LEMON PUDDING. Boil four lemons peeled thin till they are soft, rub them through a hair sieve, and preserve the fine pulp; pour some boiling milk or cream, in which a stick of cinnamon has been boiled, over a pound of Naples buiscuits, two ounces of fresh butter, and a little nutmeg. When cold, add to them the pulp of the lemons and eight eggs well beaten; mix all together, and sweeten, and, if liked, add some brandy. Make a good puff paste, edge a dish with it, put in the mixture, ornament the top with strings of paste, and bake it in a moderate oven. 998. MARROW PUDDING. Take half a pound of beef-marrow finely chopped, a few currants washed and picked, some slices of citron and orange peel candied, a little grated nutmeg, a table-spoonful of brandy, and the same of syrup of cloves, and half a pound of Naples biscuits; strain to this a quart of new milk boiled with cinnamon and lemon peel; allow the mixture to cool, and then add the yolks of eight eggs, and the whites of five. Bake it in a dish with a puff-paste round it. 999. BAKED MARROW PUDDING. A quarter of a pound of marrow, chopped fine, six sponge biscuits broken up, a few currants or raisins stoned, some candied orange, lemon, and citron, cut into small dice, a little nutmeg, grating of half a lemon peel; butter a pie or tart dish. Spread your cakes, marrow, ternately with the peels, five eggs broken in a basin, leave out two whites, beat them up, put half a pint of cream to it, and a cup of milk, sweeten with pounded sugar, according to the taste you have to make it for, some, like things sweeter than others, I do for one, that is no reason I should insist in going to the extreme—put a paste thin to your dish. 1000. MACARONI PUDDING. Simmer an ounce or two of pipe macaroni in a pint of milk, with a bit of lemon peel and cinnamon, till soft; put it into a dish with milk, the yolks of three eggs and the white of one, some sugar, / 262 PASTRY. / nutmeg, a spoonful of almond water, and half a glass of raisin wine, put a nice paste round the edge of the dish, and bake it. A layer of orange marmalade or raspberry jam may be used instead of the almond water or ratafia. 1001. MILLET PUDDING. Spread a quarter of a pound of butter at the bottom of a dish, put in six ounces of millet, with a quarter of a pound of sugar, pour over it three pints of milk, and bake it. 1002. MUTTON PUDDING. Cut some large slices from the upper part of an underdone leg of mutton, line a basin with a good suet crust, and put in the meat; season well with pepper and salt, and a shalot, or young onions finely shred. Cover up with the paste, and boil it two hours. 1003. MUFFIN PUDDING WITH DRIEDCHERRIES.Put four muffins into a pan, strain over them a pint and a half of milk boiled for ten minutes, with a few coriander seeds, a bit of lemon peel, and sugar to suit the taste. When cold, wash them with a wooden spoon, add half a pound of dried cherries, a gill of brandy, a little grated nutmeg, two ounces of sweet almonds, blanched and pounded very fine, and six eggs well beaten; mix all together, and boil in a basin, or bake it in a dish lined with paste. 1004. OATMEAL PUDDING. Take a pint of the best fine oatmeal, pour a quart of boiling milk over it, and let it soak all night; the next day put it in a basin just large enough to hold it, add two eggs beaten, and a little salt, cover it tight with a floured cloth, and boil it an hour and a half. It may be eaten hot, with cold butter and salt; or cold, sliced and toasted. 1005. ORANGE PUDDING. To half a pound of lump sugar press the juice of three Seville oranges; take half a pound of butter melted thick and the yolks of ten eggs well beaten, mix all thoroughly together with four ounces of blanched almonds well pounded with a little orange-flower water, and the peel of one of the oranges grated. Place a thin crust in bottom of the dish. 1006. PEAS PUDDING. Wash and soak well in warm water, a pint of split peas, tie them in a clean cloth, put it into a saucepan of hot water, and boil until soft, before serving beat it up to a mash with a little butter and salt, it is served with boiled pork or beef. 1007. A FIRST-RATE PLUM PUDDING. Half a pound of raisins, stoned. Half a pound of currants well washed and dried. PASTRY. 263 Quarter'of a pound of mixed peels, cut in dice. Half a nutmeg, grated. Half a tea-spoonful of pounded cinnamon. The grating of two lemons. The juice of one. A small particle of salt. One pound of bread crumbs. Half a pound of moist sugar. 's Seven eggs, yolks and whites. Three quarters of a pound of beef, or mutton suet, chopped very fine. Two glasses of brandy. Two ditto of sherry. First, break your eggs, beat them well in your basin then add your spice, salt, and peels: then, the sugar, sweet plums, and currants: then, the bread crumbs: then, the brandy and wine. SAUCE FOR IT.Break three yolks of eggs, a little sugar, and a gill of cream. stir it over the fire, till thick, then add a glass of brandy to it. Stir it all the time. Butter well a three pint round plain mould, then paper the sides and bottom quite smooth. Butter the paper likewise, steam it for three or four hours, put paper on the top: when done turn your mould over on the dish, then lift it off gently; should the paper adhere to the pudding, take it clean off; pour the white pudding sauce over it. 1008. PLUM PUDDING. Stone half a pound of raisins, wash clean and pick half a pound of currants, chop half a pound of beef or mutton suet very fine, have some bread crumbs made fine through a wire sieve, cut fine a little candied orange, lemon, and citron, grate a little nutmeg, a few grains of powdered cinamon, break eight eggs (according to the size pudding required), beat them up in a large basin, then add your spice and a quarter of a pound of fine sugar, then your candies, currants, and raisins, sweeten then a cup of cream or milk, add the grating of one lemon, mix in bread crumbs until it is quite stiff and well mixed, add a glass of brandy and two of sherry, let it stand for some hours; butter a plain round mould if you have it, sprinkle it all over with fried bread crumbs. It will take three hours to steam. Pour sauce over it—any that may be approved. You will find it in another place in the book. 1009. THE OLD ENGLISH CHRISTMAS PLUM PUDDING. To make what is termed a pound pudding, take of raisins well- stoned, currants thoroughly washed, one pound each; chop B pound of suet very finely and mix with them, add a quarter of a pound of flour, or bread very finely crumbled, three ounces of sugar, one ounce and a half of grated lemon peel, a blade of mace, half a small nut- meg, one teaspoonful of ginger, half a dozen eggs well beaten, work 264 PASTRY. it well together, put it into a cloth, tie it firmly—allowing room to swell—and boil, not less than five hours. It should not be suffered to stop boiling. 1010.—PLUM PUDDING. Take the crumb of a penny loaf, cut it into slices and soak them in boiling milk till quite soft, then beat the bread up with half of a pound of clarified sugar, the same quantity of currants, the same of raisins stoned, five eggs well beaten, candid orange, lemon, and citron, a few bitter almonds pounded, and sugar to the taste; mix all thoroughly, add a cup of brandy, place it into a dish and bake it when done turn it out and sprinkle powdered sugar over. The above ingredients make an excellent pudding boiled in a well floured cloth or mould. As a plum pudding requires to be well done, be careful to boil it sufficiently. 1011.—POTATO PUDDING. Take two pounds of potatoes, wash and boil them; when cold add a pint of new milk, three eggs well beaten, two ounces of moist sugar, and a little nutmeg. Bake it. 1012. PUDDING DERBYSHIRE. Mix gradually two table-spoonfuls of flour with a pint of milk, boil it till thick, and when cold add three ounces of butter beaten to a cream, a quarter of a pound of fine sugar, the rind of a lemon grated, the yolks of five and whites of three eggs, and a little salt; mix all well together, put it a dish lined round with paste, and bake it in a quick oven. This pudding is very nice cold. 1013. PUDDINGS IN HASTE. To grated bread add suet shred, a few currants, the yolks of four eggs and the whites of two, some grated lemon peel, and ginger; mix and form it into balls about the size and shape of an egg with a little flour. Put them into boiling water, and boil them for twenty minutes. 1014. PUDDING QUAKING. Take a quart of cream, scald it, and when nearly cold, put to it four eggs well beaten, a spoonful and a half of flour, some nutmeg and sugar; tie it tight in a buttered cloth, boil it an hour, and turn it out carefully. Serve with melted butter, a little wine and sugar. 1015. QUINCE PUDDING. Take as many ripe quinces as will yield a pound of pulp; to this add half a pound of powdered sugar, cinnamon, and ginger (two drams of each) pounded; mix them well, and add them to the yolks of eight eggs beaten in a pint of cream, stir all together, and boil it in a floured cloth. PASTRT. 265 1016. KICK PODDING, BOILED. Take some rice, pick and wash it well, tie it in a cloth, leaving plenty of room for it to swell. Boil it in plenty of water for an hour or two. Serve it with butter and sugar, or milk. 1017 RICE PUDDING WITH CURRANTS. Boil for half an hour five ounces of whole rice in a cloth, with room to swell; then take it up, add five ounces of currants, three table-spoonfuls of suet shred fine, and two eggs well beaten, tie it up again, and boil it an hour and a half. 1018. GROUND RICE PUDDING. In a pint of new milk boil two dessert-spoonfuls of ground rice, adding a small piece of lemon peel and a little cinnamon. Keep it stirring while boiling, and let it boil ten minutes, then let it cool; when cold add sugar to taste, a couple of well-beaten eggs, and some nutmeg. Line your dish with a puff paste, pour in your rice, and bake a light brown. 1019. RICE PUDDING WITH FRUIT. Swell some rice in a little milk over the fire, then mix it with either currants or gooseberries scalded, or apples pared and quartered, raisins, or black currants; add an egg to the rice to bind it. Boil it well, and serve with sugar. 1020. SAGO PUDDING. Take half a pound of sago, wash it in several waters (warm), then boil it with a pint of milk and a little cinnamon, stirring it often till it becomes thick; pour it into a pan, and beat it up with half a pound of fresh butter; add the yolks of eight eggs, and the whites of four, beaten separately, a little flour, half a glass of white wine, and sugar to liking; mix all well, and boil it. Serve with sweet sauce. 1021. SIPPET PUDDING. Cut a small loaf of fancy bread into very thin slices, put a layer of them at the bottom of a dish, then the layer of marrow—or beef suet, if the former is not easily obtained fresh—a layer of currants, and then a layer of bread, and continue in this order until you have filled the dish. Beat up to a fine froth four eggs, mix them with a quart of cream, a nutmeg, and four ounces of sugar, and pour it over; put it into an oven with a very steady heat—not too fierce—and bake thirty minutes. 1022.—8UET PUDDING. Chop half a pound of beef suet, extremely fine, add the same quantity of flour, two eggs well beaten, a small quantity ot pounded 266 PASTEY. and sifted sugar, and a little salt; mix well together with milk to a tolerable consistence, and either bake or boil it. 1023.—SUET PUDDING. To a pound and a quarter of flour add a pound of shred suet, with two eggs beaten separately, a little salt, and a little ground ginger, and just enough milk to make it; boil it four hours. It is very nice the next day cut in slices and broiled. 1024. SWEETMEAT PUDDING. Take one ounce each of orange and lemon peel, and citron, slice them very thin; line a dish with puff paste, lay the peel at the bottom, mix the yolks of seven eggs with the whites of two eggs, adding five ounces of sugar, pour it over the sweetmeats, put it into an oven well heated and bake thirtv-five minutes. 1025. TAPIOCA PUDDING. Soak four table-spoonfuls of tapioca in a quart of milk all night, then add a spoonful of brandy, some lemon peel, and a little spice; boil them gently, add four eggs, the whites well beaten, and a quarter of a pound of sugar; bake it. 1026. TREACLE PUDDING. To a pound of stoned raisins add three quarters of the pound of shred suet, a pound of flour, a pint of milk, a table-spoonful of treacle, grated ginger and pounded spice; stir all up well, and boil it four hours in a floured cloth. 1027. VERMICELLI PUDDING. Take four ounces of vermicelli boil it soft in a pint of new milk with a stick or two of cinnamon; add half a pint of thick cream, a quarter of a pound of butter, the same quantity of sugar, and the yolks of four eggs well beaten; put in a dish and bake it. 1028. VERMICELLI. Boil a quarter of a pound of vermicelli in milk, with a piece of cinnamon, four cloves, a bay leaf, sweeten with lump sugar, put a piece of butter into it; break four eggs in a basin, a little grated nutmeg, and a gill of cream; add it to your vermicelli. If nearly cold, butter your dish well, as for a bread and butter pudding; bake or stew this pad- ding ; if stewed, season with vanilla or orange flowers. 1029. YORKSHIRE PUDDING. Mix together a spoonful of flour, a pint of milk, and one egg well beaten, add a spoonful of salt and a little ginger grated; put this PASTRY. 267 mixture in a square pan buttered, and when browned by baking under the meat turn the other side upwards to be browned also; serve it cut in pieces, and arranged upon a dish. If you require a richer pudding increase the number of eggs. 1030. APPLE DUMPLINGS. Pare a few good sized baking apples, and roll out some paste, divide it into as many pieces as you have apples, cut two rounds from each, and put an apple under each piece, and put the other over, join the edges, tie them in cloths, and boil them. 1031. APPLE DUMPLINGS, BAKED. Make them as directed above, but instead of tying them in cloths place them in a buttered dish, and bake them. 1032.—CURRANT JELLY DUMPLINGS. Roll out rather thin some good rich paste, spread some currant jelly over it, roll it up, put it in a cloth, tie it at each end, boil it an hour, and then serve. 1033. DAMSON DUMPLINGS. Line a basin with a good hot paste crust, rolled rather thin, fill it with damsons, cover it and boil it in a cloth for an hour; when done pour melted butter over it, grate sugar round the edge of the dish, and serve. 1034. DUMPLINGS HAIID. Make a paste of flour, small beer, or water, and a little salt, roll them into small balls, and put them in the pot when the water boils; in half an hour they will be done. They are very good boiled with beef. Serve either with cold or melted butter. 1035. DUMPLINGS NORFOLK. Make a batter with flour, a pint of milk, two eggs, and a little salt, drop it in small portions in a pot of boiling water, boil them three minutes, and then put them into a sieve or cullender to drain. 1036. DUMPLING PASTE. Make a paste with flour, milk, salt, and yeast; let it stand in a warm place to ferment; cut into sizes according to taste; boil about twenty minutes; let them cool; cut each in two; soak them in milk, sugar, and lemon peel an hour; drain and flour them for frying, or dip them in oil or melted butter to broil. Baste with the same they were dipped in. 1037- DUMPLING SCOTCH. In the centa-e of a paste made of oatmeal and water put a had- dock's liver, well seasoned with pepper and salt. Boil it in a cloth. 268 PASTRY. 1038. SUET DUMPLINGS. Make the paste the same as for suet pudding, wet your cloth, dust flour over it, put in the paste the size intended, tie up, and boil an hour. 1039.—RASPBERRY DUMPLINGS. Roll out some good puff-paste, spread raspberry jam over it, roll it up, and boil it a little more than an hour; cut it into slices, pour melted butter into the dish, and serve. 1040. YEAST DUMPLINGS. Take some yeast and make a very light dough, the same as for bread, using milk however instead of water, add salt, put it by the fire covered in a pan for half an hour or more to rise, after this is done roll up the dough into small balls and boil them for ten minutes, then take them out and serve directly with wine sauce over them. To know when they are done stick a fork into one, and if it comes out clean they will do. A good method of eating them is by dividing them from the top with two forks, as they get heavy by their own steam, and eat them directly with meat, or sugar and butter, or salt. 1041. TARTLETS. Cut your paste after rolling it thin with a fluted cutter as large as your tartlet pan may be round, place each piece even into the pan, press it down with your finger, then put into each either a piece of square crust of bread cut into dice in the middle of each, or a very little piece of jam, you will have to add more after they are baked, sift some fine sugar over them, bake them a light colour. 1042. APPLE TART. Take some good baking apples, pare, core, and cut them into small pieces; place them in a dish lined with puff paste, strew over pounded sugar, cinnamon, mace, nutmeg, cloves, and lemon peel chopped small, then add a layer of apples, then spice, and so on till the dish is full; pour a glass and a half of white wine over the whole, cover with puff paste, and bake it. When done raise the crust, stir in two ounces of fresh butter, and two eggs well beaten, replace the crust, and serve either hot or cold. 1043. APRICOT TART. Take some apricots, cut them in two and break the stones, put them into paste with sugar, a small quantity of preserved lemon, and a few of the kernels, close it, sprinkle sugar over, and glaze it. If the apricots are not ripe, boil them a short time in water, and drain them well. PASTRY. 269 1044. ALMONDS (GREE*) TtBTS. Pull almonds from the tree before they shell; scrape off the down with a knife, and put them into a pan with cold water as fast as they are done, then put them into a skillet with more spring-water over a very slow fire till they simmer, change the water twice, and let them lie in the last till tender; put them between two dry cloths, and press them dry; make a syrup with double refined sugar, and put them to simmer a little, repeat this the next day, put them in a close jar and cover them close, as they turn black if exposed to the air, the yellower they are when in the water the greener they will be afterwards; put them into a sugar crust, lay the lid close, and cover them with syrup, and bake in a moderate oven. 1045. APRICOT SWEET-MEAT FOR TARTS. Take a pound of ripe apricots, remove the stones, break them and blanch the kernels, add one pound and a half of green gages and one pound and a qurter of lump sugar; simmer it until the fruit becomes a jam. It must not boil, and must be kept well skimmed; clarified sugar will be found the best to use for this preserve. 1046. BEAN TARTS. Boil some green beans and blanch them. Put into a puff-paste (laid in patty pans), a layer of these, and a layer of different sweet- meats, sprinkling a little loaf-sugar between each layer, then add some juice of lemon, some marrow seasoned with salt, cloves, mace, nutmeg, and candied lemon or orange peel, cover the patties, make a small hole at top, and pour in a little lemon juice. When baked, put in some white wine and a bit of butter. 1047- CHOCOLATE TART. Mix some chocolate, a little flour, cream, and sugar, and three eggs, boil it for half an hour, stirring continually to prevent its catching at bottom, put it into the paste with whites of eggs beaten and frothed upon it; glaze it with sugar. 1048.—CHERRY TABT. Line the sides of a dish with a good crust, strew in sugar, fill it with picked cherries, and put sugar at the top; red currants may be added if liked, cover with crust, and bake. 1049.—CURRANT TART. Line a dish with puff-paste, strew powdered sugar over the bottom of it, then put in alternate layers of currants carefully picked, and sugar, till the dish is full then cover and bake it. The addition of raspberries or mulberries to currant tart is a great improvement. 270 PASTRY. 1050 DAMSON TART. Line a dish with a good crust, put in the fruit, and proceed the same as for any other fruit pie. 1051. GRAPE TART. Take the youngest grapes before stones are formed, pick and scald them the same as currants, or gooseberries, and finish the same as other tarts. More sugar will be required than usual, on account of the extreme tartness of the fruit. 1052. GOOSEBERRY (GREEN) TART. Use either whole gooseberries, or make a marmalade of them with a good syrup, the last method is perhaps the best, as you can tell easily how sweet they are and ought to be; if made of marmalade the seeds ought to be taken out. 1053. ORANGE TARTS. Take some oranges, pare them very thin, soak them in water for two or three days, changing the water often, then boil them till they become soft and lose their bitterness; when cold cut a thick slice off the top and bottom, and the rest the thickness of a crown piece; line the tartlet-pans with puff paste, and fill them with layers of sugar and orange alternately. 1054.—PEAR TART. Peel some pears carefully, cut them into quarters and remove the cores; if large and green boil them soft in a little water, simmering them in some rich syrup, and place them with the syrup in a dish lined with puff paste, cover and bake it. 1055.—O.UIXCE TART. Take a few preserved quinces, put an equal weight of syrup, made with sugar and water and preserve, into a preserving-pan; boil, skim, and then in the fruit; when somewhat clear, place the quinces in a tart-dish with puff-paste as usual. Cover, bake it, and when done lift the top gently, put in the syrup, ice it, and serve. 1056.—RASPBERRY TART. Line a dish with nice puff-paste, put in fruit and sugar, lay bars across, and bake. 1057-—RASPBERRY TART WITH CREAM. Put some raspberries in a patty-pan lined with thin puff-paste, strew in some finely sifted sugar, cover with puff-paste, and bake it; when done, take off the top and pour in half a pint of cream, pre- PASTBY. 271 viously mixed with the yolks of two or three eggs, and sweetened with a little sugar; then return the tart to the oven for five or six minutes. 1058.—RHUBARB TART. Take some stalks of a good size, remove the thin skin, and cut them in pieces four or five inches long, place them in a dish, and pour over a thin syrup of sugar and water, cover with another dish, and simmer slowly for an hour upon a hot hearth, or do them in a hlock-tin saucepan. Allow it to cool, and then make it into a tart; when tender, the haking the crust will be sufficient. A tart may be made by cutting the stalks into pieces the size of gooseberries, and making it the same way as gooseberry tart. 1059. STRAWBERRY TART. Put into a basin two quarts of the best scarlet strawberries picked, add half a pint of cold clarified sugar, the same quantity of Madeira, with the juice of two lemons, mix all well without breaking the strawberries, and put them into a puff paste previously baked; keep them very cool. 1060. TARTLETS. Line several tartlet pans with a thin short paste, fill them with any preserve or sweetmeat you like, then with paste shred very fine (moulds made for this purpose do them much neater and more quickly) cross them; egg them, place them in a baking tinjand bake them in a quick oven. 1061. YELLOW ALMOND SWEETMEATS. Blanch a pound of sweet almonds, wash them in cold water, and when quite dry pound them with a sufficient quantity of yolks of eggs into a fine but rather stiff paste; add to them a pound of powdered sugar, and the rinds of two lemons grated; knead the paste well with your hands, first sprinkling the table with sugar. Form the paste into what figures you please, such as fleur-de-lis, trefoil, &c., &c., each being about the size and weight of a macaroon. Place them on white paper and on an iron plate, fry them in a moderately hot stove. If they are of a deep yellow they are sufficiently done. These sweetmeats may be still further ornamented in the following manner:—Boil some sugar in orange flower water, to the degree called 'grande plume,' and as soon as the sweetmeats are taken from the stove or oven wash them over with a light brush, dipped in the syrup, this will give them a delicious perfume, and they may then be called a la glace; when cold take them from the paper, and put them into glasses for the table. 1062 TO CUT OUT PATTY CASES, ETC. Roll your paste out about a quarter of an inch, but first try a 272 PASTRY. very thin bit in your oven, and you will find out the heat of the oven and the lightness of your paste, and then cut the thickness ac- cordingly. Have a plain or a fluted cutter, turn each piece.of paste upon your papered baking sheet, take a smaller cutter and pass in the middle of the top of each, then egg each top with a paste brush; nine will make a good dish. Roll out a piece of the paste, and with a cutter sufficiently large to cover the opening on the top, cut out the same number for the tops, egg them and bake them separately; after your paste is baked and before it is cold, with a small knife carefully put them in the screen until required. 1063. TO NEUTRALIZE THE ACID IN FRUIT PIES AND PUDDINGS. A large quantity of the free acid which exists in rhubarb, goose- berries, currants, and other fruits, may be judiciously corrected by the use of a small quantity of carbonate of soda without the least affecting their flavour, so long as too much soda is not added. To an ordinary sized pie or pudding as much soda may be added as, piled up, will cover a shilling, or even twice such a quantity if the fruit is very sour. If this little hint is attended to, many a stomach ache will be prevented, and a vast quantity of sugar saved, because, when the acid is neutralized by the soda, it will not require so much sugar to render the tart sweet. 1064.—PASTY. This pie is made from the shoulder or breast, which must first be stewed as in former pies; well season it, and put plenty of essence of the gravy. 1065. A PASTE FOR STEWED BEEF OR SOUPS. Break three eggs, a little salt, and dry them up with flour, mix the paste well, roll it out thin about an inch in length; have ready some boiling water, put it in for ten minutes, add little salt in the water, frequently moving it about, keeping it from sticking together. 1066. LAMB PASTY. Bone, and cut into four pieces the lamb you intend to use, at the bottom of the pasty lay beef suet, season with pepper, salt, chopped thyme, nutmeg, cloves, and mace, lay it upon the suet, making a high border about it, turn over the sheet of paste, close up, and bake; when it is baked put in vinegar, the yolks of four eggs well beaten, and some good gravy. 1067- MUTTON PASTY, TO RESEMBLE ONE MADE OF VENISON. Hang for four or five days (weather permitting), a fat loin of mut- ton, then bone it, beat it well with a rolling-pin, rub the meat with sugar—four ounces to ten pounds of meat—pour over it half a gill of vinegar, and the same quantity of port wine; let it be five days, then PASTRY. 273 wash it, dry it thoroughly, season highly with allspice, nutmeg, and salt. Put the meat into the dish in which it is to be baked ; add one pound of butter, spread over the meat (if ten pounds); lay a crust round the edge of the dish, and cover with a thick crust, and bake in a slow oven. A gravy may be made for the pasty by baking the bones in a pan to which has been added a little pepper, and salt, and a glass of port wine. This should be added when the pasty is drawn. 1068.—FISH PATTIES. Boil for a little while an eel, a carp, and a tench, half stew six oysters, pick the flesh from the bones of the fish, beat it in a mortar with the smells of the fish, some mace, and a glass of sherry, work them well together; make some rich paste, line the tins, put in the forcemeat, add one oyster, a bit of butter, then cover with paste and bake. 1069.—OYSTER PATTIES. Line some small patty pans with B fine puff paste, put a piece of bread into each, cover with paste and bake them. While they are baking take some oysters, beard them, and cut the remainder up into small pieces, place them in a tosser with a very small portion of grated nutmeg, a very little white pepper and salt, a morsel of lemon peel cut as small as possible, a little cream and a little of the oyster liquor; simmer it a few minutes, then remove the bread from the patties and put in the mixture. 1070. MEAT PATTIES. The patty-pans should not be too large; make a puff paste, put it layer at the bottom of the tins, put in forcemeat, and cover with puff paste, bake them a light brown, turn them out. If for a small dinner five patties, or seven for a large dinner will suffice for a side dish. 1071.—MARROW PATTIES. Shred a few apples with some marrow, add a little sugar, make them up in puff paste, fry them in clarified butter, and when done sprinkle some sugar over them and serve. 1072. MARROW PATTIES. Make a paste with four ounces of sweet almonds, blanched, moistening them with orange flower water; mix this paste with a handful of flour, a drop of warm water and the yolks of three eggs; then line several shallow moulds with it, dorez and bake them in a slow oven. When done put into each of them a little cream about the thickness of a crown piece, made with beef marrow, lemon peel, and cream, cover it with a spoonful of white of egg whipped -j a snow, sprinkle sifted sugar over, and serve them very hot. T 274 PASiiir. 1073.—mm OF ANY KIND. Cut into square pieces the thickness of a patty case, put in the middle a small piece of jam, double one side over the other pressing it with your two thumbs, keeping the middle of a round lump; egg the tops, bake them and glaze them. 1074. APRICOT PUFFS. Take some puff paste, roll it to about fifteen inches long, the eighth of an inch in thickness, and six inches wide, then place a small portion of apricot marmalade on the paste at equal distances, and two inches from the edge ; moisten round each bit of marmalade, and turn the two inches of paste over, press it down round the preserve so as to join the crusts, and then cut them out into semi- circular turnovers; lay them on a tin, dorez and bake them in a hot oven; when almost done sprinkle them with sugar, and glaze them. 1075. GATEAU NEAPOLITAN. Pound cakes in alternate layers with preserves, as jams of different sorts, between each layer. The ornaments are also made of pound cake. The whole is glazed with white of egg, and the white orna- ment is piped. eo' 1076. GATEAU DAUPHIN. Roll out a paste thin, sufficient to cover your baking sheet, then spread the paste all over with jam or apples prepared, roll out another paste and cover all over the jam, sometimes egg with whites of egg, and cover it with chopped almonds and sifted sugar, then with your knife cut it through all along the width of two inches, turn the baking sheet and cut it through the length of three inches, then bake them a nice light brown; when baked and nearly cold, take them from the baking sheet and trim the sides and ends quite smooth, dish them on a napkin as cutlets standing upon the ends. 10/7-—Pt"its d'amoue. Roll your second paste a quarter of an inch thick, cut with a fluted cutter the size ,of a crown piece about eighteen pieces, place them upon a papered baking sheet, press a round mark with a much smaller plain cutter, egg them lightly, bake, and glaze them when done; while warm open the top with a small knife, and fill the paste with different jams, dish them high upon a napkin. PASTEY. 275 ]078. RICE, GATEAU OF. Boil a quart of cream and add to it half a pound of powdered sugar, and three quarters of a pound of rice; when the latter is quite soft dissolve in it a quarter of a pound of butter, and then put in the grated rind of a lemon, let it cool. When quite cold stir in four yolks and four whole eggs, more if the rice be very thick; butter a mould lightly, put the rice into it, place the mould in hot ashes so that it may be completely enveloped in and covered with them; in half an hour the gateau will be done enough, then turn it out and serve. If you wish you can make a souffle by whipping the whites of six eggs like other souffles; in this case it should be served in a silver dish. In putting the preparation into the mould be careful not to fill it, as the rice would swell and run over. 1079. A MIXED JAM FOR PARTS OR TARTLETS. Take two pounds of apricots when ripe, take out the kernels and blanch them, then add them to the fruit; add to this two pounds of greengage plums or bullaces/and two or three pounds of lump sugar; then gently boil all until it is a clear jelly. Put it in small pots. 1080.—ALMOND WAFERS. Take a pound of sweet almonds, blanch and pound them; add a pound of powdered sugar, a pinch of orange flowers pralinee, put them into a basin and moisten them with a sufficient quantity of whites of eggs to enable you to spread the paste on wafer paper with the blade of a knife, the wafer paper must be rubbed with virgin wax and sweet oil; lay the preparation on as thin as possible, chop some sweet almonds very small, mix them with sugar, and strew them over the wafers, and put them into a hot oven; when about half baked take them out and cut them in squares; replace them a minute in the oven, take them out again, and press them on a stick to give them the proper form; as soon as they are cold put them on a sieve. Just before they are served they should be slightly warmed. 1081.—CCRD PUFFS. To the curd of two quarts of new milk well drained, add the yolks of seven eggs and the whites of two, sugar, rose-water, nutmeg, and bread crumbs; make it into a paste, cut it into any shape you like, fry them in boiling lard, and serve them with a sauce made with butter, sugar, and white wine. 1082. CfTEESE PUFFS. Take half B pint of cheese curd strained very fine, beat it in a mortar with three eggs, leaving out two whites, a spoonful and a half of flour, a spoonful of orange flower water, a quarter of a nutmeg, and sugar to make it rather sweet; make the paste into very small round cakes and bake them on a tin plate in a hot oven for fifteen minutes; serve with pudding sauce. T 2 276 PASTRY. 1083. A DISH OF FRENCH PAsTRY. The pastry is fixed by white of egg. A veil is formed over the whole by white of egg and white sugar boiled briskly, stirred when it has boiled, and poured over while in a froth. 1084.—CROQUETS Are prepared in the same way as No. 767. but not egged and bread crumbed, but formed as puffs in a paste, but instead^©? jams you will put a piece of this preparation, you must egg the edge before you slap them together, egg the tops of them, and sprinkle some fine broken Yermacelli over them, then fry them the same as the rissoles, dished on a napkin and fried parsley. 1085. RICE, CROQUETTES OF. Wash and scald a quarter of a pound of rice, put it into a sauce- pan with the rind of a lemon shred fine, a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, a pinch of salt, a little crisped orange flower, an ounce of butter, and half a pint of milk; set these on the fire, and when the rice is quite soft add the yolks of four eggs, stir them in over the fire, but do not let them boil; pour the preparation on a large tin or slab, spread it equally, let it cool, and then divide it into small parts, roll these into balls, dip them into an omelet, roll them in bread crumbs, and fry them in it very hot pan; as soon as the croquettes are of a nice colour drain them, sprinkle them with powdered sugar, and serve them. 1086. TO MART. MERINGUES. Lay four eggs on ice for an hour, weigh the weight of the eggs in fine sifted sugar, then whip up the whites of those four eggs to a very stiff point, when done mix in gently the sugar; have ready a board an inch and a half thick, covered with white paper, sugar the paper, then with a silver spoon form the meringues the form of an egg, but do not let them touch each other, sift sugar well over them, dry them in your hot closet and when quite hard take them off the paper and scoop out the soft, and turn them over upon another paper, dry them again in the hot closet, fill them with jam or cream when you want them; dish upon a napkin or cut paper. What you scoop out will do to sweeten jelly, or glaze tarts. PASTBY. 277 1087- MERINGUES. Whisk the whites of nine eggs to a solid froth, then add the rind of six lemons grated very fine, and a spoonful of sifted sugar, after which lay a sheet of wet paper on a tin and with a spoon drop the mixture in little lumps 'separately upon it, sift sugar over and put them to bake in a moderately heated oven, taking care that they are done of a nice colour, then put raspberry, apricot, or any other kind of jam between two of these bottoms, add them together and lay them in a warm place or before the fire to dry. 1088.—MERINGUES. Take the whites of twelve eggs, six ounces of the best lump sugar pounded and sifted, and half a pound of pistachios, blanch and beat the latter in a mortar, with a little white of egg to a fine paste, whisk the whites of eggs to a show, then add the sugar and pistachio paste, mix them well, but very lightly, and when they are thoroughly incorporated put some sheets of paper on tin plates, lay your pre- paration on the paper with a spoon, lay the meringues at least an inch apart, sprinkle sifted sugar over them and put them into a moderate oven or stove, when done detach them gently from the paper with a knife, and place them on a sieve in a dry place, before they are sent to table fill each with a little whipped cream, to which add a small quantity of orange-flo«er, rose, or vanilla water. >. APPLE MERINGUES. Meringues, the apple in centre. 1090. CASSEROLE OFRICE. Use a well mould the size you may require the dish for, after your rice is prepared, as in another place you will see; while it is warm wet your mould with milk, press in the rice very tight, then turn it out on the dish it is to go to table on, cover it over, and keep it hot until wanted, the well will be filled as in receipt 1185, pouring sauce round the casserole on the dish, garnish the top with plovers' eggs, and whole truffles. 1091.—APPLES IN RICE. Take a few good apples, pare, core, and cut them into quarters, boil some rice in a cloth until it is soft, then put in the apples, tie up very loose, and boil gently till sufficiently done. 278 PANCAKES AND FRITTERS. CHAPTER XV. PANCAKES AND FRITTERS. 1092. PANCAKES. Pour a good batter made of eggs, milk, and flour, in the usual way into a pan, so that it lies very thin, fry the pancakes with hot lard, and when one side is done turn it by tossing it up lightly, serve with sugar and lemon, or Seville orange juice. 1093.—-CREAM PANCAKES. To a pint of cream add the yolks of two eggs, two ounces of sugar, and a little beaten cinnamon, mace, and nutmeg; mix the whole well, and then fry them very carefully. 1094.—PANCAKES A LA FRANCHISE. Into a stewpan put four ounces of butter, a table-spoonful of ratafia pounded, the rind of a lemon cut thin, two ounces of pounded white sugar, mix in separately three eggs, then add one at a time the yolks of three more, mix well, add a little milk, half a pint of cream, and a little orange flower water, beat it well up to the thickness of a good cream, put into your pan some clarified butter, and when melted pour it away and put in your batter for the pancakes, they must be made very thin; when you have finished frying the pancakes leave in the bottom of your stewpan one table- spoonful of the batter, add to it a little orange flower water, some sugar, a small quantity of pounded ratafia, and the yolk of an egg; mix this up with some cream, put it into a boat and serve as a sauce. 1095.—pancakes A l'italienne Are made in the same manner as the above, excepting that when fried they must be laid open on a clean dresser, an Italienne cream spread over them, rolled up and laid side by side in a dish with the brown side outwards. 1096.—rice pancakes. To half a pound of rice put two thirds of a pint of water, boil it to PANCAKES AND FBITTEBS. 279 a jelly; when cold, add to it eight eggs, a pint of cream, a little salt and nutmeg, and half a pound of butter melted; mixwell, adding the butterlast, and working it only so much as will make the battersufficiently thick. Fry them in lard, but employ as little as it is possible to fry them with. 1097-—FRITTERS Are made of batter the same as pancakes. Drop a small quantity into the pan, have ready apples pared, sliced, and cored, lay them in the batter and fry them; they may also be made with sliced lemon or currants, the latter is particularly palatable. They should be sent to table upon a folded napkin in the dish; any sweetmeat or ripe fruit will make fritters. 1098. FRITTERS, APRICOT. Twelve apricots preserved in brandy, drain, and cut them in half; wrap them in wafers moistened and cut round; dip them in batter, as in receipt 1101, and fry. Sprinkle with sugar, and serve. 1099.—APPLE FRITTERS. Take two or three large russeting apples, pare them thin, cut them half an inch thick, lay them on a pie dish, pour brandy over them,let them lie two hours; make a thick batter, using two eggs, have clean lard, and make it quite hot; fry two at a time, a nice light brown, put them on the back of a sieve on paper, sift pounded sugar over them, glaze them with a shovel or salamander; dish on a napkin. After they are cut in slices,take out the core with a small round cutter. 1100. FRITTERS, AU BLANC. Mix a handful of rice-flour with milk, set on the fire, stir con- stantly, adding a little cream, sugar, lemon-peel, and orange-flowers; when thickened remove it from the fire; when cold roll it in balls the size of a walnut, dip them in batter, and fry them. 1101. FRITTERS A l'ANGLO-FRANCHISE. Make a batter as follows:—Put into a saucepan one glass and a half of water, two ounces of fresh butter,and a little salt, let it boil, then stir in enough flour to make it a firm batter, keep stirring for three minutes, then turn it into another vessel. Make previously a marrow pudding, while it is cooling prepare your batter, cut the pudding into thin slices, divide again into pieces about two inches long and three quarters of an inch wide, dip them into the batter and fry them, when done drain them, glaze with fine sugar, and serve them as hot as you can. 1102.—CURRANT FRITTERS, A LA BAUPHINE. Having picked and washed six ounces of dried currants, boil them, gently for a minute or two in two ounces of clarified sugar; when PANCAKES AND FRITTERS. 281 fill of flour, mix well, add half a pint of cream, or milk, a little cayenne pepper, a little black, and some salt, and a table-spoonful of ready-made mustard, boil all over the fire, with a wooden spoon keeping it well stirred; let it cool a little, then add two or three yolks of raw eggs, stir all until it is quite stiff, turn it out upon a dish to cool, and then form them into the shape most approved of, as pairs, or round, or flat. Egg and bread crumb them twice, fry them in very hot lard a bright yellow, fry some parsley at the same time, send them up very hot, and on a napkin with fried parsley. 1109. FRITTERS ROYALS. Put into a saucepan a quart of new milk, the moment it is on the boil pour in a pint of pale sherry or Madeira, remove it from the fire, let it stand six minutes, skim off the curd and then turn it into a basin, beat it up well with six eggs, season it with nutmeg, beat it with a whisk, add enough flour to make it of the consistence of batter, add sugar, and fry quick. 1110. FRITTERS SPANISH. Cut into lengths about the size and thickness of your finger the crumb of a French roll, you may please your fancy as to the shape, soak it in a compound of cream, nutmeg, sugar, pounded cinnamon, and an egg; fry it, when thoroughly soaked, a nice brown, serve with butter, wine, and sugar sauce. * 1111. FRITTERS SOUFFLES. . Mix the yolks of four eggs, half a spoonful of olive oil, and a little salt, with half a pound of flour, whip the whites of the eggs to a snow and add it to the rest; when your paste is equal to a thick batter take one spoonful of it and roll it in flour, make each ball about the size of a walnut, fry them in a hot friture of oil, sprinkle with white sugar, and serve hot. 282 EGGS AND OMELETS. CHAPTER XVI. EGGS AND OMELETS 1112.—TO DRESS EGGS (POACHED). Break your eggs separately in cups, have ready a large stewpan half full of water, pour into it a little vinegar and salt, let it simmer, then put in your eggs, not too many at a time, some like them done less than others, therefore boil them accordingly; have ready by your side a dish with warm water, and when your eggs are sufficiently done put them into this clean water, trim them smooth and round, dish them on pieces of toast buttered; if for dinner, upon prepared spinach or potatoes. 1113. BUTTERED £GGS, A CATHOLIC DISH. Break six whole eggs in a stewpan, just dissolve a quarter of a pound of butter by standing the basin in hot water, when all dissolved, beat up the eggs and add the butter to them, have on the fire another stewpan sufficiently large enough to hold the one you have the eggs and butter on, half fill the large stewpan with water setting the small stewpan into it, keeping it stirred one way all the time, but do not let it boil, you will spread it on neatly cut toasts. 1114. EGG BALLS Boil four eggs hard, take out the yolks and pound them, add to them a few bread crumbs, and pepper and salt, and the yolk of one raw egg, mix them all well together, take them out, and with flour on your hands roll them into balls, boil them for two minutes. 1115.—EGGS, GRATIN OF, WITH CHEESE. Take some grated bread, Parmesan cheese also grated, a piece of butter, the yolks of two eggs, nutmeg, and pepper, mix these toge- ther and spread them over the bottom of a dish, set it over a gentle fire to make a gratin, on which break ten eggs, sprinkle Parmesan cheese over the surface, finish cooking it, and brown it with the salamander. 1116.—eggs maItre d'hOtel. Butter eight small round moulds, sprinkle the insides with some EGGS AND OMELETS. 283 fine chopped parsley and onions, or shallots and mushroom, and bread crumbs, a little pepper and salt, mix in your bread crumbs; when your moulds are well covered with all this preparation, break in a raw egg into each mould, then set them to steam for about four minutes, put a good white sauce in your dish. 1117- SCOTCH EGGS. Boil hard six pullet's eggs, take off the shells, then mask each egg with some raw forcemeat, rolling each egg in some grated tongue or ham, press this with your hand close to the eggs, then roll each egg in some very fine bread crumbs, then fry them a fine yellow colour, put in your dish a sharp sauce or plain gravy, or dry upon a napkin, and fried parsley. 1118. TTMBALF, OP EGGS. Hard boil either very small pullets' eggs, or large eggs, boil them quite hard, when done and cold, which will soon be if you will put them into cold water, then take off the shell, then cut off the small end of the white, then scoop out, without breaking the white, all the yolk, which you will mix up with a spoonful of good bechamel, a little fine chopped pepper and salt, a little grated ham, or tongue, and a few bread crumbs, then fill in the eggs, set them to steam a few minutes if hot, if not, dish them either as before or a salad sauce in the dish. 1119.—PI.OVEBS' EGGS. If you have them raw, put some moss in paper iu your stewpan, then lay your eggs in upon it covering them with cold water, boil them about ten minutes, then lay them in cold water, send them up in the shells upon a napkin; or take off the shells and dry them, and put each either iu a mould of aspic jelly, or endways upon jelly orna- ments. 1120. OMELET. Take as many eggs as you think proper, according to the size of your omelet, break them into a basin with some chopped parsley and salt, then beat them well and season them according to taste, then have ready some onions chopped small, put some butter into a frying- pan, and when it is hot, but not to burn, put in your chopped onions, give them two or three turns, then add your eggs to it and fry the whole of a nice brown, you must only fry one side, when done turn it into a dish the fried side uppermost, and serve. 1121. OMELET A LA CELESTINE. Make four omelets of three eggs each, and as thin as possible, slice them carefully on the table, lay frangipane* on, and roll them up in * Made thus: Mix fire spoonfuls of flour, fire eggs, a pint of milk, an ounce of butter, and a pinch of salt; set on the fire, boil ten minutes, keep stirring; pour into a basin to cool Pound eighteen sweet almonds, three bitter, twelre macaroons;adda little powdered orange-flour, and enough white sugar to sweeten; mix all together, and stir with ti wooden spoon. EGGS AND OMELETS. 285 the fire; when nearly done, moisten them with cream, and season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg; mix this with half a dozen eggs, beat the whole up well, and fry the omelet either in oil or butter. 1129.—ONION OMELET. Take two or three good sized onions, cut them into slices, and fry them in butter, when they are done add the yolks of two eggs, and a little chopped parsley, fry two small omelets, on which lay the onions, with two or three anchovies cut in slices, roll them up length- ways, fry some pieces of crumb, cut the omelets to the shape and size of these, and place them thereon, pour melted butter, and strew bread crumbs, and grated Parmesan cheese over them, and colour it in the oven. 1130. OMELET SOUFFLE. Break six eggs, separate the whites from the yolks; to the latter, put four dessert-spoonfuls of powdered sugar, and the rind of a lemon, chopped exceedingly small, mix them well, whip the whites as if for biscuits, and add them to the rest, put a quarter of a pound of butter into a frying pan over a brisk fire, as soon as it is completely melted, pour in the above, stir it up, that the butter may be thoroughly in- corporated with the omelet, and when that is the case strain it into a buttered dish, which place on hot ashes, strew powdered sugar over, and colour the top carefully with a salamander. 1131.—OMELET SOEFFLE IN A MOULD. Break six fine eggs, separate the whites and yolks, put to the latter three spoonfuls of powdered sugar, four crushed macaroons, a spoonful of potato flour, a little crisped orange flower in powder, stir them to- gether well, whip the whites to a froth, mix them with the yolks, and pour the whole into a buttered mould, but do not fill it, set it in a moderate oven the same as for biscuits, when done, turn it out on a dish, and serve it. This omelet should be of a clear colour, and shake like a jelly. 1132.—OMELET STUFFED. Make your omelet as au naturel, but before you turn the ends over lay over it a farce of sorrel, double the omelet, before you take it from the pan, so that none of the farce may be seen, and cement the edges with white of eggs; serve it very hot. Any other sort of farce may be applied in the same manner. 1133. SAVOY OMELET. Break six eggs in a basin, a little chopped parsley and shalots, a little chopped ham and mushrooms, a few grains of any kind of dried sifted sweetherbs, and half a gill of cream, or a little good white sauce, pepper and salt; put in your omelet-pan two ounces of butter to get quite hot, add to your omelet about eight pieces of 286 EGGS AND OMELETS. butter broken as small as a nut, beat all well together, put it into your very hot butter, keeping frequently forcing your knife in various parts to the bottom of the pan, when all is nearly dried up shake it and empty it on your dish half turned over; either send up a good sauce, as may be preferred, or garnish it dry and send it on a napkin. 1134.—A SIMPLE AND PLAIN SWEET OMELET. Break up six eggs in a basin, a few grains of salt, a grating of a lemon, a piece of citron, orange, and lemon peel chopped fine, a gill of cream, some pounded sugar, a little orange flower water, a few grains of grated nutmeg; fry it as other omelets, trim it and roll it up; if approved of, put apricot jam in it, dish it upon a napkin. 1135. APPLE SOUFFLE WITH RICE. Blanch half a pound of the best rice in scalding water, strain it clear, boil it in sufficient milk to cover it, to this add a little lemon peel and a small bit of cinnamon, let it boil until the rice has absorbed the milk, turn it into a dish, and when cool raise a wall with it about three inches high, having first taken the precaution to egg the dish to make it stick firmly, smooth the rice to an even surface, then egg it all over, fill the dish half way up the wall of rice with apple marmalade; beat to a fine froth the whites of four eggs, pour them over the marmalade, then sift powdered white sugar over it, put it into the oven, keep up an even heat to give it a fine colour. 1136.—CUSTARD SOUFFLES. Put two ounces of rice flour, and two of butter into a saucepan, mix them well together, and add to them four ounces of powdered white sugar, and two glasses of cream in which a little vanilla has been infused to flavour it, boil it over a moderate fire, like a cream pdtissiere, put to them the yolks of four eggs, two spoonfuls of whipped cream, and the four whites beaten firm. Make the paste for the moulds the same as petite p&th a la bechamelle, and when half baked pour in your preparation, and finish them; when done serve immediately. These souffles may be made with any fruit, or flavoured with any ingredient you may please. 1137-—OMELET SOUFFLE. Break six eggs, leave out the whites, put them in a cold place, add to the yolks a little powdered sugar, a little grated lemon, a little nutmeg, a few drops of lemon juice, beat all well together, add a few spoonfuls of cream, then beat up the six whites very stiff, put a piece of butter in your omelet-pan upon a slow fire, when warm pour in the omelet, mix in your whites very gently, turn it out on your dish, glaze it with pounded sugar, put it in the oven, sprinkle more sugar, and send it up. EGGS AND OMELETS. 287 1138.—ORANGE SOUFFLE. Made with orange jelly. Before your jelly quite sets get your whisk and whip it until it begins to set, it will come up very light, then put it into your mould, but this is best done after the jelly has been to table, and what you have left will do. CHASTE DESIGN FOR A PAIR O? SALT CELLABd. 288 BUTTER, CHEESE, ETC. CHAPTER XVII. BUTTEE, CHEESE, ETC. 1139. BUTTEE TO CLARIFY. Scrape off the ou tsides of the butter you may require and then put it into a stewpan by the side of a slow fire, where it must remain till the scum rises to the top and the milk settles at the bottom; carefully with a spoon take off the scum, when clear it is fit for use. 1140. BUTTER PRESERVED FOR WINTER. Take two parts of the best common salt, one part of good loaf sugar, and one part saltpetre, beat them well together; to sixteen ounces of butter thoroughly cleansed from the milk put one ounce of the above composition, work it well, and put it into pots when quite firm and cold. 1141. BUTTER BORDERS COMMON. If you have no Montpelier butter, take a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, work it up well with a knife, mixing with it either of the following colouring materials; for rose colour, a little infusion of carmine, or any vegetable red; green, spinach juice; yellow, an infusion of saffron; violet, a little Prussian blue added to the red; orange, red and yellow joined. 1142.—COLD BUTTERS FOR CHEESE OR BREAKFAST. This you can make up into many pretty forms, as small pats, in shape of a pine, making the roughness with a silver fork, and some done on a crimping-board, and rolled on a cut pattern, either with name or crest, or scooped with the bowl of a spoon, then dipping the spoon in salt and water each time, it will form a shell, if sent up by itself, put parsley round, it may be used with anchovies, potted meats, or grated beef, or tongue, or radishes, &c. 1143. MELTED BUTTER WITHOUT BOILING. Two ounces of butter mixed up into a cream, then add a table- spoonful of flour and a gill of cold water, stir it over the fire until quite thick, but it must not boil. BUTTER, CHEESE, ETC. 289 Cheese takes an important place at the table; not alone, in its simple place at the close of the dinner, but that it forms the foundation of many excellent dishes. The selection of good cheese requires both judgment and experience; a delicate palate and a keen sense of smell are two essential requisites, while the eye is an assistant to point out those defects independent of taste or smell. A prime cheese is readily told by a connoisseur by the colour and texture, without consulting either nose or palate. The inexperienced are apt to be deceived in cheeses of the finest quality; when testing it by the taster the smell is strong, and the taste acrid, it is therefore rejected, whereas if cut and suffered to remain for two or three days in a dry closet, exposed to the air, the flavour would become both pure and agreeable. To avoid this error the best plan is to lay in a stock of Cheshire cheese, keep it in a dry cellar in a box, bury it in saw-dust, and in about three months it will be greatly improved, and fit to cut. Divide a cheese into two halves, or take out one-fourth, according to the con- sumption, and cover the cut parts of the cheese reserved with butter, or lay close to the sides cut a buttered paper, and keep the cheese in a dry place; the part in use should be exposed in the larder for about three days, it will then be ready for the table. CHESHIRECHEESE Is the finest flavoured of the English cheeses, although Stilton is looked upon as the greatest luxury. STILTON CUEESE Is usually made in the spring, and appears at table at Christmas; it is however all the better for being kept at least twelve months before use. Various modes are employed to improve the flavour. A piece of Cheshire affected by mites is inserted in an aperture, and stopped with a wet cloth; in a month it ripens the cheese, and some bon vivans will go into ecstacies when taking it as a relish with a glass of old port. Another mode is to make an excavation in the shape of an inverted cone, and pour into the hollowed space four glasses of port, claret, or Madeira, according to fancy; this being suffered to soak in for three weeks or a month is considered to bring the cheese to a state of unapproachable perfection. This may suit many palates it is true, but the purity of the flavour is destroyed; the best judges and the best makers aver the finest Stilton is that which ripens without adventitious aid. NORTII WILTSHIRE Is rich and of fine flavour; they are fit for table, if carefully kept, in nine months. DOUBLE GLOUCESTER Is also an excellent cheese, noted for making Welsh rabbits; is very good for a stew; it comes to perfection in about ten months. U BUTTER, CHEESE, ETC. 291 may be used for toasting; cheeses made of skim milk have been considered best for that purpose, many even preferring them to the North Wiltshire, the richest and fattest of the English cheeses. When mites have taken possession of a cheese, and this is con- sidered objectionable, the following receipt, by a Derbyshire lady, will have the effect of destroying them without injury to the cheese. "Wipe the cheese, put it into a pot in which mutton has been cooked whilst the water is yet hot, make the water boil a few seconds, take out the cheese, wipe it immediately, dry it, and then put it away in a dry place until required for use. 1144. TOASTS OF CHEESE. Mix some clarified butter with some grated Parmesan cheese or Gloucester, and a little ready-made mustard, a little black pepper, and cayenne pepper; prepare some neatly cut toast thin, then spread the mixture upon them; sprinkle grated cheese upon the top of each dish upon a napkin. 1145. POTTED CHEESE. Scrape and pound cither or both Parmesan and Cheshire cheese, with a piece of butter, cayenne pepper, a few grains of pounded mace, a tea-spoonful of sifted sugar, a glass of white wine, and a little salt, press it into your potting jar for shape. 1146. APRICOT CHEESE, TO MAKE. Stalk and pare thinly a number of apricots, take their weight and put to them an equal weight of fine white sugar, the latter must be moistened a little, and then boil together very quickly, add the kernels blanched, let it boil for half an hour, not longer, half fill small jars and cover down for future use. 1147.—CHEESE ARTIFICIAL. Well pound some nutmeg, mace, and cinnamon, to which add a gallon of new milk, two quarts of cream, boil these in the milk, then put in eight eggs, six or eight spoonfuls of wine vinegar to turn the milk, let it boil till it comes to a curd, tie it up in a cheese cloth, and let it hang six or eight hours to drain, then open it, take out the spice, sweeten it with sugar and rose water, put it into a cullender, let it stand an hour more, then turn it out and serve it up in a dish with cream under it. 1148. CHEESE BRIOCHE. Make a brioche in the usual way, and when ready to bake spread it over the board, and strew over some Gruyere cheese cut into dice, a quarter of a pound of cheese to a pound of brioche paste, roll it out, take off an eighth part and put the largest portion into the mould and case, clarify it, then take the rest of the brioche and C 2 292 BUTTER, CHEESE, ETC. place it on the top so as to form a sort of head to the other, clarify and trim it when it has been in the oven two hours, take it out gently, and if the head be not detached from the rest, remove it lightly, lay over paper, and replace it in the oven as quickly as you can to finish baking. 1149. CHEESE AS ICED BUTTER. Take a pint of cream, with some grated lemon-peel, and a good spoonful of orange flower water, boil for a few minutes, when taken off the fire add the yolks of a dozen eggs well beat up, and mix together without boiling; sift through a sieve, and put into an icing-pan to freeze, working it the same as ices, it must be iced in such a manner that you can serve it with a spoon, like pats of butter stamped, and bits of clear ice between to look like crystals. 1150.—CHEESE CUAIS. Take some Cheshire or double Gloucester, cut them into thin slices and press them with a knife until you can spread it like butter; add mustard, common and Chili vinegar,cayenne pepper,and salt, essence of anchovies, any fish sauce you think proper, mix it well together to a thick pulp. 1151. CBAT FISH CHEESE. Having washed and boiled the fish, take off the small claws and tails and set them aside, chop the meat that remains in the shells with some other fish, artichoke bottoms, sweet herbs, and butter; mix them well, and put it in a dish in the form of a small cheese, round which lay the tails; cover it with bread crumbs, and colour it in the oven for a quarter of an hour. 1152. CHEESE CREAM. Take three pints of cream, add salt sufficient to season it, mix it well, fold a cheese cloth three or four times and lay it at the bottom of a sieve and pour the cream into it, when it hardens cover it with nettles on a pewter plate. 1153. CHEESE CBEAM, A TiAIN FAMILY WAY. Put three half pints of milk to one half pint of cream, warm, or according to the same proportions, and put in a little rennet: keep it covered in a warm place, till it is curdled; have a mould with holes, either of china or any other, put the curds into it to drain about an hour, serve with a good plain cream and pounded sugar over it. 1154.—CHEESE CREAM AND MARMALADE. Boil a pint of cream, mix it with any kind of marmalade you please," a few spoonfuls will be sufficient, and a little dried pre- BUTTER, CHEESE, ETC. 293 served lemon-peel chopped fine; when it is but just lukewarm put some rennet to it, and serve with pounded sugar over it. 1155. CHEESE CREAM ICED. Boil half a pint of cream, then add half a pound of sugar to it, a dozen of sweet almonds pounded, a little orange flower water, and rasped lemon-peel, boil together a few minutes; when you take it off the fire add five yolks of eggs beat up, and stir it frequently till they are well mixed with the cream; strain it in a sieve, and put it into the icing-pot; when it is pretty well iced, work it well to put it into cheese-moulds, ice it again and serve. It is also done with coffee and chocolate in the same manner as the ices, only that each is thickened with four or five yolks of eggs as directed in the first, and moulded like a cheese, which gives it the name. 1156.—CHEESE CREAM ANOTHER RECEIPT.Take a quart of cream and twelve quarts of new milk, put rennet just enough to turn it, and let the milk and cream be just warm; when it has stood till curd has come, lay a cloth in the vat the size of the cream, cut out the curd with a skimmer, dish and put it into the vat till it is full, turn the cheese cloth over it, and as the curd settles lay on until you have got enough to make one cheese. When the whey is drained off turn the cheese into a dry cloth, and then lay on it a pound weight at night, turn it out into another cloth, and the next morning salt it a very little, then having made a bed of nettles or ash leaves to lay it on, cover it with the same, shifting it twice a day for about ten days when it will be fit for use. 1157. CAULIFLOWERS AND CHEESE. Make a sauce with cullis, a bit of butter and pepper, but not salt, put in a dish some grated Parmesan or Gruyere cheese, place the cauliflowers that have been nicely boiled on this, pour the sauce over, and cover them with slices of Parmesan cheese warmed to make them stick to the cauliflowers, colour it with a salamander. 1158. CARDOONS IN CHEESE. Add to the sauce in which the cardoons are cooked, grated Parmesan cheese, and put it over them when placed in the dish, cover them with bread crumbs and grated cheese, pour melted butter over the whole, colour it in the oven or with a salamander. 1159.—DAMSON CHEESE. Take eight pounds of damsons, and bake them in a jar till they are tender, then rub them through a cullender, put to them one pound and a half of lump sugar, and let them boil to the thickness of marmalade. 294 BUTTER,CHEESE, ETC. 1160. DAMSON CHEESE. Fill a stone jar or pan with damsons, tie them over with paper, to this allow only half a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit, place the pan of fruit without sugar into the oven to stew, strain the fruit upon a sieve, take out some kernels to blanch to be added to the jam, rub the damson through a hair or a wire sieve, reduce the syrup by boiling it to one half, then put in your sugar and kernels and the fruit you have rubbed through, boil it gently for some time until it begins to candy at the sides of your preserving-pan, then pour the jam into moulds or small potting pots. 1161. CHEESE ENTREES. For entrees Parmesan should be made use of, it should be grated, and meat or fish that you serve it with must be cooked a la braise or en ragout; very little salt must be used in the sauce or meat, as Parmesan is very salt; put into the bottom of the dish in which you are going to serve your meat, some of the sauce you intend to use with your meat, then stew with grated cheese, place your meat upon this, pour over this the remainder of the sauce, and cover the whole with Parmesan, then put it in the oven to brown, and served with a thick sauce, cauliflower, and Spanish cardoons may be served in the same manner for entremets. 1162.—CHEESE, FRESH. Sweeten two quarts of cream with sugar, boil it thin, then put in some damask rose-water, keep it stirred that it may not burn. When it is thickened and turned take it off the fire, wash the strainer and cheese-vat with rose-water, then roll your curd back- wards and forwards in the strainer to drain the whey from it, then put the curd into the vat as soon as it is cool, slip it into the cheese-dish with some of the whey, and serve it. 1163. CHEESE FRITTERS. Take some mild brie or gruyere cheese, add some milk and butter, and put the whole into a saucepan, put to these ingredients flour, eggs, and sugar, make into a paste, of which form your fritters, fry them of a nice colour and serve, then sprinkle with sugar, a small quantity of orange flowers may be added. 1164. CHEESE MARIGOLD. Take some of the freshest and best coloured leaves, pound them in a mortar and strain out the juice, put this into milk with the rennet. The milk being set and the curd produced, break it as gently and as equally as you can, put it into the cheese, Tat and press it with a pound weight, there being such a number of holes in the bottom part of the vat as will let the whey out easily. They must be finished as all other cheese. BUTTER, CHEESE, ETC. 295 1165. CHEESE MACARONr. Take a quarter of a pound of macaroni, a pint and a half of new milk, put it in a stewpan, and let it stew till quite tender, take half a pound of Parmesan, grate it, add it to the macaroni, quarter of a pound of butter, pepper and salt, and a little cayenne, according to taste, mix them well together, and let them stew ten minutes, brown with a salamander, and serve. 1166. ONIONS WITH PARMESANCHEESE. Take six large onions, pare them and cut them in slices half an inch in thickness, then make a batter with flour, half a gill of cream, a little pepper, salt, and three eggs, beat it up for ten minutes, after which add a quarter of a pound of Parmesan cheese grated fine, and mix well together, to which add the onions, have ready some boil- ing lard, then take the onions out of the batter with a fork singly, and fry them nicely till of a nice brown, drain them dry and serve them placed round each other; for sauce, a little melted butter with mustard in it. 1167. CHEESE PASTE. Take a cream cheese, flour, a little butter, three eggs, and some good cream, make it into a paste; you must judge the quantity of flour according to the quantity of cheese and consistency you would have the paste. 1168. CHEESE POITNDED. Cut into thin bits a pound of mellow Cheddar or North Wilts, or Cheshire cheese; if the cheese is dry add to it three ounces of fresh butter, if moist two ounces will be sufficient, pound and rub them in a mortar well together till they are quite smooth. Spread on bread it makes a nice luncheon or supper; you may if you like pound with it curry-powder, ground spice, black pepper, cayenne, a little made mustard, moisten with a glass of sherry; if pressed down close in a jar and covered with clarified butter, it will keep for several days in cool weather. 1169. CHEESE PUFFS. Take half a pint of cheese curd strained from the whey, with a spoonful and a half of flour, three eggs, leave out the whites of two, a spoonful of orange flower water, a quarter of a nutmeg, and sugar to make it sweet; beat it in a mortar; lay a little of this paste in very small round cakes on a tin plate; if the oven is hot, they will take a quarter of an hour to bake them, serve them with pudding sauce. 1170. FOBK CHEESE. Take a pig's head, and having boned it, cut all the meat into rather thick slices, do the same with the ear, separate the fat from 296 BUTTER, CHEESE, ETC. the lean, and mix the whole with bay leaf, thyme, basil, sage, and parsley, all shred fine, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and other spices, the peel and juice of a lemon; lay the skin of the head open over a salad bowl, arrange the pieces in it, mixing with them a little beef tongue a l'ecarlate, and truffles, when all are put in wrap the skin round them, sew it up very tight, and dress it as directed for hog's head; when done take it from the fire, and whilst warm put it in a mould to give any shape you like. 1171. PORK CHEESE, ITALIAN. Pound a pig's liver with two thirds bacon and one third beef, when they are thoroughly incorporated add to them shred thyme, sage, basil, a bay leaf, parsley, coriander spice, anise powder, grated nutmeg, salt and pepper, line a mould with curd, into which put the above preparation; cover it with thin slices of bacon, and bake it, when done leave it to cool in the mould. 1172. CHEESE, TO PRESERVE SOUND. Wash it in warm whey once a month, wipe it, and keep it on a rack, if you wish it to ripen keep it in a damp cellar, which will bring it forward: when a whole cheese is cut, the largest piece should be spread inside with butter, and the outside should be wiped to preserve it; to keep that which is in daily use moist, let a clean cloth be wetted and wrapped round the cheese when carried from table. 1173. CHEESE BOASTED, TO COME UP AFTER DINNER, Mix three ounces of grated Cheshire cheese, the yolks of two eggs, four ounces of butter, and three ounces of grated bread, a dessert-spoonful of mustard, a little salt and pepper, beat the whole well in a mortar, toast some bread, cut it into proper pieces, lay the paste as above thick upon them, put them in a Dutch oven covered with a dish till hot through, remove the dish and let the cheese brown a little, serve as hot as possible. 1174—RICE CHEESE. Take a pound of rice, boil it till it becomes thick as hasty pud- ding in rather less than half a pint of milk, pour it hot on an ounce and a half of butter, the same weight of Lisbon sugar, mixing it well together; let it stand till cold, then add one egg, and the yolk of another, and a little white wine. 1175. CHEESE SOUFFLE. Take three ounces of flour and two of butter, put them in a stewpan with one egg, mix them together with a pint of milk, and set it on the fire till it begins to boil, if too thick add a little more milk, then break in the yolks of five eggs and a gill of cream, when BUTTER, CHEESE, ETC. 297 these are all mixed, stir in gently two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese and a little pepper and salt, beat the whites of the eggs with three more, and finish as if for souffles; when this light batter is put in paper cases it is called "bondues au fromage." 1176.—CHEESE, SAGE. Take the tops of young red sage, bruise in a mortar with some leaves of spinach, squeeze the juice, mix it with the rennet in the milk, more or less, as you like it, for colour and taste; when the curd is come break it gently, and put it in with the skimmer till it is pressed two inches above the vat, press it eight or ten hours, salt it, and turn every day. 1177- CHEESE STEWED. Take a quarter of a pound of Cheshire and Gloucester cheese, cut it small and lay it in a stewpan, add a gill of Lisbon wine, a tea-spoonful of water, and if liked one of mustard, mix them over a fire till the cheese is dissolved, then have ready a cheese-plate, with a lighted lamp beneath, put the mixture in it and serve it up directly, send with it some fresh toasted bread. 1178. STILTON CHEESE. Take the night's cream and the morning milk, mix them together with the rennet; when the curd is produced, it must not be broken as is done with other cheeses, but take it out with a soil dish altogether, and place it in the sieve to drain, gradually press it till it becomes firm and dry, then place it in a wooden hoop, and afterwards keep it dry on boards, turning it often with cloth binders round it, which are to be tightened as occasion requires; in some dairies the cheese, after being taken out of the hoop, is bound round with a cloth tight; this cloth should be changed daily, until the cheese becomes firm enough to support itself; after the cloth is taken off it must be rubbed every day all over with a brush for three months, and if the weather is moist or damp, twice daily, and even before the cloth is taken off the top and bottom must be rubbed every day. 1179.—CHEESE SOUP. Take a dish that will bear the fire, and spread over the bottom of it gruyere cheese cut small, with pieces of fresh butter strewed about it, cover this with thin slices of bread, and lay bread, butter, and cheese alternately until you have enough, taking care to finish with the butter and cheese; moisten these layers with stock, and let them simmer until it is burnt to the bottom and the liquor is evaporated; when about to send it to table add more stock, with a little pepper, and let the potage be rather thick. 1180.—CHEESE TOAST. Take some butter, made mustard, and salt, mix it in a mass, spread it on thin fresh made toast, and grate Gloucester cheese. 298 BUTTER, CHEESE, ETC. 1181. CHEESE TOASTED, OR A SCOTCH RABBIT. Toast a slice of bread, butter it, toast a slice of cheese on both sides, and serve it on the bread. 1182. CHEESE TOASTED, OR A WELSH RABBIT. Take a slice of bread and nicely toast it, toast a slice of cheese on one side, lay it on the toast, and, with a hot salamander, brown it, and rub some mustard over it. 1183. VVELSn RABBIT—ANOTHER WAY. Toast a slice of bread quick on both sides and butter it, toast a slice of Gloucester cheese on one side, then lay that side upon your bread, then hold a hot salamander, or shovel over the other side, spread it with mustard and a little pepper, keep it hot, and cover it over. 1184.—Baldwin's fromagere for toasting cheese. Here we have a very elegant arrangement for toasting cheese upon our own supper table. Amongst other good points it possesses one desideratum worthy of mention,—the cheese never gets burnt. DIRECTIONS FOR USINGTHE FROMAGERE. Place the iron heater, a, when red hot, in the receptacle, outside of which pour about a pint of boiling water. Put on the dish D, on BUTTER, CHEESE, ETC. 299 which good cheese, cut in thin slices, must be placed; put on the cover, and in about five minutes the cheese will be fit for serving, c represents the handle for shifting the heater. 1185. TIMUALE OF MACARONI, SHALL AND LAUGH. For small timbales for entrees, butter six little moulds, put a slice of truffle at the bottom of the mould, or little round pieces all round the bottom, laying one piece on the other; when done put a very small piece of quenelle, spread thinly on the top of the truffle, then have ready cut pieces of macaroni, previously boiled and dried in a cloth, all of an equal size; place them round your mould, the end of the macaroni with the hole to the side of the mould, letting it touch the mould. When you have got round with the macaroni, the mould, if a big one, should have a well to it, then put thinly some more quenelle, sprinkling each layer with grated Par- mesan cheese, and so proceed as at first, until the moulds are full; then twist butter paper over your mould, and steam a large one one hour, the small one less time; the hole in the middle of the big mould when turned out upon the dish will be filled with pre- pared crumbs, sweetbread, truffles, and mushrooms, the small ones will have truffles, or mushroom sauce, or any good sauce that may be prepared, pound in the dish, the truffle top to be glazed. 1186. MACARONI BROWN. Prepare your macaroni as before, but if you have any left put it in your dish that you send to table, put grated cheese on the top of all of it, keeping it high, clarify some butter and pour it over it, put it in the oven to brown, send it very hot to table. 1187.—MACARONI. Boil your macaroni in milk, and a good piece of butter, until quite tender, strain it off, have ready in another stewpan some white sauce, add to it a little made mustard, a quarter of a pound of Parmesan cheese, a little cayenne pepper, common pepper, and salt. 1188.—FONDEAU. Boil together half a pint of milk and two ounces of butter, and a little salt, mix in smooth two spoonfuls of flour, then stir it over the fire for about five minutes, then take it off and add to it half a pound of grated Parmesan cheese, the yolks of eight eggs and the whites of two well beaten before you add it; then add a gill of cream, then beat the remaining six whites of eggs to a very high froth, then mix them lightly to the rest, then fill your case, either a silver one well buttered, or small square paper cases, bake them in a slow fire, about twenty minutes the small ones, and longer the large ones. 300 BUTTER, CHEESE, ETC. 1189.—RAMEQUINS. Break eight eggs into a basin, add two ounces of clarified butter, two tea-spoonfuls of made mustard, some black pepper, and cayenne pepper, and salt, a gill of cream; beat all well together, add half a pound of grated Parmesan cheese, and a little common cheese grated, beat well together, then fill your mould or papers. I used at one time to divide the eggs and whip the whites the last thing, quite stiff, and stir in gently, but I now make them as above equally as good and light as with the former time and trouble. My souffles I now make the same way, without whipping the whites which by most cooks is still preserved; my way is quite as light and the souffle rises equally as high. CUSTARDS. 301 CHAPTER XVIII. CUSTARDS, CREAMS,ICES, JELLIES, MARMALADES, ETC. 1190. CUSTARDS. Boil a pint of milk with lemon peel and cinnamon, mix a pint of cream and the yolks of eggs beaten; when the milk tastes of the seasoning sweeten it enough for the whole, pour it into the cream and stir it well, then give the custard a simmer till of a proper thickness, do not let it boil, stir it one way the whole time; then flavour with a large spoonful of peach water, and two tea-spoonfuls of brandy, or some ratifia. If you wish your custard to be very rich put a quart of cream and no milk. 1191.—CUSTARDS. Put on to boil half a pint of milk, half a pint of cream, with a few pieces of sugar, a bay-leaf, two dozen coriander seeds, a piece of cinnamon, three cloves, a few grains of nutmeg; boil for a quarter of an hour, take it off to cool, have beaten up four yolks of eggs, and two whole eggs, beat them well up, then add your warm milk to it, stir it over a slow fire with your whisk until thick, mind it does not boil and curdle, keep stirring it off the fire until cold, pass it through a tammy, it will then be fit for use J flavour with various things, differing according to what it may be required for. 1192.—ALMOND CUSTARDIs the same as the former custard preparation. Blanch and pound fine about twelve bitter almonds, and two dozen Jordan, and mix it into the custard when over the fire; a few drops of orange-iiowcr water. 1193.—ALMOND CUSTARDS. Blanch and beat three ounces of sweet almonds and one ounce of bitter fine, with a spoonful of water; beat a pint of cream with two spoonfuls of rose water, and put to them the yolks of four eggs, and as much sugar as will make it sweet; then add the almonds, stir it all over a slow fire till it is of a proper thickness, but not to boil. Pour it into cups. •102 CUSTARDS. 1194. CUSTARD, BAKED. Boil a pint of cream with mace and cinnamon; when cold, take four eggs, leaving out two of the whites, a little rose and orange- flower water, a little white wine, nutmeg, and sugar to your taste; mix them well together, and bake them in china cups. 1195.—CREAM CUSTARD. Take the crumb of a penny loaf and grate it very fine, and add to it a quart of cream with half a pound of fresh butter, and the yolks of a dozen eggs, put to them as much sugar as will sweeten them, then let it thicken over the fire, make the custards shallow, and when they have stood half an hour in a slow oven, grate some loaf' sugar over them and serve. 1196.—CUSTARD A LA PARISIENNE. Take fifty sound apples and cut them into quarters, pare and core them, put them in a saucepan with half a pound of butter, a quarter of a pound of powdered white sugar, and a pot of apricot marmalade; put them over a moderate fire, but of a good even heat, let them remain to soften but not to break, a few minutes will suffice. Have ready a preparation of rice boiled, with half a pound of butter, the same of sugar on which has been grated the peel of four lemons, a pinch of salt, and eight glasses of milk thickened with the yolk of ten eggs; make a raised crust about nine inches in diameter, and five or six in height, in which put a fourth part of the rice cold, on that lay forty-eight quarters of apples, over them pour the same quantity of rice, &C., reserving the finest quarters for the top. Bake it in a brisk oven for two hours and a half, or until done, when it is done mark the top with apple jelly, apricot or currant marmalade, and the crust with the same, bitter almonds also. 1197.—CUSTARD (PLAIN). Boil together a quart of cream or new milk, a stick of cinnamon, four bay leaves, and some mace; then take twelve eggs, beat them up well, sweeten them, put them into a pan, and bake or boil them, stirring them all one way till they are of a proper thickness; boil the spice and leaves first, and when the milk is cold mix the eggs and boil it. The spice may be left out, and only the bay leaves used, or, in lieu of that, four or five bitter almonds, to the taste. 1198. CHERRY CUSTARD. Take two pounds of ripe cherries, stoned and tailed, and put them into a preserving pan with half a pound of powdered sugar; when nearly done drain the cherries well, strain the syrup, and boil it until it begins to adhere to the fingers, then pour it to a fourth part of the cherries with the juice which drained from them, and put them on the fire till the nap foams; prepare the custard in the usual way CREAMS. 303 pour in the drained cherries, bake it for three quarters of an hour in a brisk oven, then dorez and glaze it. Previous to serving at table mark it with the remaining cherries, and pour the syrup over the whole. 1199. LEMON CUSTARD. Take the yolks of ten eggs beaten, strain them, and whip them with a pint of cream; boil the juice of two lemons sweetened with the rind of one, when cold strain it to the cream and eggs; when it almost boils, put it into a dish, grate over the rind of a lemon, and brown it with a salamander. 1200. ORANGE CUSTABD. Beat the rind of a Seville orange (previously boiled very tender), in a mortar, to a very fine paste, add the juice of a Seville orange, a spoonful of the best brandy, the yolks of four eggs, and four ounces of lump sugar; beat them well together for ten minutes, then pour in gradually a pint of boiling cream, beating it till it is cold, and put it into custard glasses. Place the glasses in an earthen dish of hot water, let them remain till they are set, then stick preserved orange or orange chips on the top. Serve either hot or cold. 1201.—BICE CUSTARDS WITHOUT CREAM. Take one tea-spoonful of rice flour, a pint of new milk, the yolks of three eggs, a table-spoonful of ratafia-sugar to your liking; mix the rice very smooth, and stir it, with the eggs, into the boiling milk. CREAMS. 1202. APRICOT CREAM. The same as raspberry and currant cream, rub your apricots through a sieve, if jam, the same; use a little lemon juice and less sugar than to the other creams. 1203.—CABBAGE CREAM. Put a gallon of milk over the fire and skim it as long as any froth rises, then empty it into eight or ten bowls as fast as you can without making it froth, then set them in a place where the wind may blow upon them; when the milk is rather cooled gather off the cream with your hands, crumple it together and lay it on a plate; when you have laid four or five layings one upon another, then dip a feather in rose water and musk and stroke it over it, then sift some fine sugar and grated nutmeg over it and lay on three or four layers more, then set all the milk on the fire to boil again, and when it rises up distribute as you did before in your bowls, and use it in the like manner; do this five times, laying on your cream as before one upon another, till it is as round and as high as a cabbage. Let one of the bowls stand, 304 CREAMS. because it will be thickest and most crumpled, lay on that last the top of all; strew pounded loaf sugar over the whole. 1204. CHOCOLATE CREAM. Put two squares of chocolate scraped into a stewpan with two ounces of sugar, a pint of milk and half a pint of cream, let it boil till a third is consumed, and when half cold beat up the yolks of six eggs with it, and strain the whole through a sieve, and then put the small dish or cup, in which the cream is to be served into a pan containing enough boiling water to reach above half-way up the cream, cover this pan and put a little fire on the pan, when done and the cream cool, serve. 1205. CLOTTED CREAM. String four blades of mace on a string, put them to a gill of new- milk, and six spoonfuls of rose water, simmer a few minutes, then by degrees stir this liquor, strained into the yolks of two new eggs well beaten, stir the whole into a quart of good cream, set it over the fire and stir till hot, but not boiling, pour it into a deep dish and let it stand four and twenty hours, serve it in a cream dish; to eat with fruit some persons prefer it without any taste but cream, in which case use a quart of new milk, or do it like the Devonshire cream scalded; when done enough a round mark will appear on the surface of the cream, the size of the bottom of the pan it is done in, which in the country they call the ring, and when that is seen remove the pan from the fire. 1206. EXCELLENT CREAM. Take three quarters of a pint of cream, whip it up to a strong froth with some finely scraped lemon peel, a squeeze of lemon juice, half a glass of sweet wine, and sugar, lay it on a sieve in a form, and the next day lay it on a dish and ornament it with very light puff paste biscuits made in tin shapes the length of a finger, and about two thick, over which should be strewed sugar, or a little glaze with isinglass; the edges of the dishes may be lined with macaroons. 1207.—CHOCOLATE.—WHIPPED CREAM. Dissolve a quarter of a pound of the best chocolate in a glass of boiling water over a moderate fire, then let it cool, add to it a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, and mix it with whipped 1208.—CHERRY ICE CREAM. Pound half a pound of preserved cherries unstoned, put them into a basin with a pint of cream, the juice of a lemon, and a gill of syrup; pass it through a sieve, and freeze it in the usual way. CREAM. 305 1209.—CURRANT ICE CREAM. Put into a basin a large spoonful and a half of currant jelly, with half a gill ofsyrup; squeeze in the juice of one lemon and a half, add a pint of cream and a little cochineal, pass it through a sieve, and freeze it in the usual way. 1210. CURRANT CREAM. Take some currants thoroughly ripe, bruise them in boiled cream, add beaten cinnamon, and sweeten to your taste; then strain it through a fine sieve, and serve. Strawberries and raspberries may be done in the same way. The fruit ought to be sweetened previous to putting in the cream, which should be used almost cold, else it is liable to curdle. 1211. GOOSEBERRY CREAM. Take a quart of gooseberries, boil them very quick in enough water to cover them; stir in half an ounce of good butter, when they become soft pulp them through a sieve, sweeten the pulp while it is hot, and then beat it up with the yolks of four eggs. Serve in a dish, cups, or glasses. "1212. LEMON ICE CREAM. Take the juice of four lemons and the peel of one grated, add two gills of syrup and one pint of cream, mix it all together, pass it through a sieve, and freeze it. 1213. STRAWBERRY CREAM. Pulp six ounces of strawberry jam with a pint of eream through a sieve, add to it the juice of a lemon, whisk it fast at the edge of a dish, lay the froth on a sieve, add a little more juice of lemon, and when no more froth will rise put the cream into a dish, or into glasses, and place the froth upon it, well drained. 1214.—STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM. Pass a pint of picked strawberries through a sieve with a wooden spoon, add four ounces of powdered sugar, and a pint of cream, and freeze. 1215. CREAM HASTY. Take a gallon of milk from the cow, set it on the fire, and when it begins to rise take it off the fire, skim off all the cream and put it on a plate, then set the skillet on the fire again and repeat the skimming till your plate is full of cream, put to it some orange flower and sugar, and serve it. 1216.—ITALIAN CREAM. Boil two ounces of isinglass as usual for creams, whip up a pint of cream until it thickens, add the juice of two lemons, tome sifted x 306 CBEAM. sugar, a little brandy, and a little white wine, whip all in by degrees, when a good thickness add in your cold isinglass, whip it until it begins to set, then fill your mould; if you like colour one half of it. 1217. CREAM, TO KEEP. Cream already skimmed may be kept twenty-four hours if scalded without sugar, and by adding to it as much powdered lump sugar as will make it sweet, it will keep good two days in a cool place. 1218.—CREAM AIT KATUREL. Take some thin cream, mind and let it be fresh, and put it in a bowl on ice to cool, add to it powdered sugar, and serve it. 1219. PINE APPLE CREAM. Have some pine apple prepared in syrup, and cut into small dice, putting it in your cream with a little of the syrup, the other process as before. 1220. RASPBERRY AND CURRANT CREAM. Use a pottle of raspberries, and the juice of a handful of currants, passed through the sieve with the raspberries, then proceed the same as before, precisely. 1221. RHENISH CREAM. This can be made best from some stale clear jelly; boil your jelly and let it cool a little, have ready eight yolks of eggs, a little sugar, and a little brandy, mix this all to the jelly, pass it through a tammy sieve, or a lawn sieve, into a basin, keeping it well mixed until it begins to jelly, then put it into your mould. 1222. CREAM STRAWBERRIES.' Rub through a fine sieve about four ounces of strawberries, have ready boiled in a small quantity of water or milk two ounces of isinglass, strain it, and put it to get cold, but not to set; put in a large basin one pint of cream, whip it with your whisk until it begins to thicken, then whip in a piece of a lemon free from pips, a handful of sifted sugar, now the strawberries, more sugar if not sweet enough, now whip in gently your isinglass, not more than a tea-cupful, whip it well, and if nearly set put it into your mould; if not a good colour, as that of a strawberry, use cochineal colouring to it. 1223. VANILLA CREAM. Boil a stick of vanilla in a cupful of milk, with a few pieces of lump sugar, for one hour, take out the vanilla, and let the milk get cold, prepare your isinglass and cream as in other creams, whip the essence of vanilla into it, make it rather sweet with sifted sugar, ices. 307 fill your mould as before. Turn out all jellies and creams with luke- warm water, damping the tops with a clean cloth before you turn them over upon your dish. 1224. GOOSEBERRYFOOL. Put gooseberries into a stone jar with some fine Lisbon sugar, put the jar either in a stove or in a saucepan of water over the fire, if in a stove a large spoonful of water should be added to the fruit; when it is done to a pulp press it through a cullender. Have ready a sufficient quantity of new milk, and a tea-cupful of raw cream boiled together, or you may use an egg instead of the cream, leave it to get cold, then sweeten well with sugar and mix the pulp by degrees with it. 1225.—APPLE FOOL May be made as gooseberry fool, except that when stewed they should be peeled and pulped. 1226.—TRIFLE. Cover the bottom of the dish with Naples biscuits, and macaroons broke in halves, wet with brandy and white wine poured over them, cover them with patches of raspberry jam, fill the dish with a good custard, then whip up a syllabub, drain the froth on a sieve, put it on the custard and strew comfits over all. 1227. APPLETRIFLE. Take a quantity of apples, and pulp them through a sieve until you have sufficient to make a thick layer at the bottom of your dish, grate the rind of half a" lemon fine and mix with it, sweeten to palate with sugar. Mix together half a pint of milk, the same quantity of cream, and the yolk of one egg, scald it over a quick fire keeping it well stirred all the time, it must not boil, add a little more sugar and then stand it to cool; when cold lay it over the apples with a spoon, cover it with a whip which should be made about twenty- four hours previously, and which'should be thus made ;—to a gill of rich cream put the whites of two eggs well beaten, four tea-spoon- fuls of pounded sugar, some lemon peel, and a wine glass of raisin wine, beat it well with a whisk which is kept only for such purposes. A gooseberry trifle may be made in the same way. ICES. Sorbetieres, or moulds for cream or fruit ices, are made of two sorts of materials, block-tin and pewter, of these the latter is the best, the substance to be iced congealing more gradually in it than the former, an object much to be desired, for when the ice is formed too quickly it is apt to be rough and full of lumps like hail, espe- cially if it is not well worked with the spatula; the other utensils x 2 308 ICES. fit for this operation are a deep pail with a cork at the bottom, and a wooden spatula, about nine inches long; fill the pail with pounded ice over which spread four handfuls of salt, then having filled a sorbetiere or mould with cream, &C., put on the cover and immerse it in the centre of the pail, taking care the ice touches the mould in all parts, throw in two more handfuls of salt and leave it a quarter of an hour, then take the cover from the mould, and with the spatula stir the contents up together, so that those parts that touch the sides of the mould, and consequently congeal first, may be mixed with the liquor in the middle, work this about for seven or eight minutes, cover the mould, take the pail by the ears and shake it round and round for a quarter of an hour, open the mould a second time and stir as before, continue these operations alternately until it is entirely congealed and smooth, and free from lumps, take care to let out the water that will collect at the bottom of the pail, by means of the cock, and press the ice close to the sorbetiere with the spatula; when the cream is iced take it from the pail, dip the mould in warm water and do not let it remain an instant, dry it quickly, turn it out and serve as quickly as possible. All sorts of ices are finished in this manner, the preparation of the articles of which they are composed constitutes the only difference between them. 1228.—ice for icing—now to prepare. Break almost to powder a few pounds of ice, and throw in among it a large handful and a half of salt, you must prepare in the cool part of house that as little of the warm air may come as possible; the ice and salt being in a bucket, put your cream into an ice-pot and cover it, immerse it in the ice, and draw that round the pot so that it may cover every part, in a few minutes put a spatula or spoon in and stir it well, remove the parts that ice round the edges to the centre, if the ice cream or water be in a form shut the bottom close, and move the whole in the ice, as you cannot use a spoon to that without danger of waste; there should be holes in the bucket to let the ice off as it thaws. 1229. ICING FOR CAKES. For a large cake beat eight ounces of fine sugar, put it into a mortar with four spoonfuls of rose water and the whites of two eggs beaten and strained, whisk it well, and when the cake is almost cold dip a feather in the icing and cover the cake well, set it in an oven to harden, but do not let it remain long enough to discolour, keep the cake in a dry place. 1230.—jJCINr; FOR CAKES. Put a pound of prepared icing sugar into a basin with the whites of two eggs, beat it up well for half an hour with a wooden spoon, if too thin add more sugar, and a drop more white of egg, and the juice ot half a lemon; beat it well. It must not run. ices. 309 1231. almond icing for bride cakes. The whites of six eggs, a pound and a half of double refined sugar, and a pound of Jordan almonds blanched and pounded with a little rose water, mix altogether, and whisk it well for an hour or two, lay it over the cake and put it in the oven. 1232. ICING FOR TAUTS. Beat the yolk of an egg and some melted butter well together, wash the tarts with a feather, and sift sugar over as you put them into the oven, or beat white of egg, wash the paste, and sift some white sugar. 1233. BROWN BREAD ICE. One pint of cream, sweeten with thick syrup, a little grating of nutmeg, a glass of jelly, have ready some very fine bread crumbs made from brown bread four days old, to be sprinkled by degrees into the cream when about half frozen, add jelly if you have it. 1234.—GINGER CREAM ICE. Make half a pint of good custard, boiling an ounce of the best ground ginger, sweeten it, add half a pint of cream, a little lemon juice, put into it when half frozen two ounces of preserved ginger cut in small dice; go on as for former ices. 1235.—CURRANT, BLACK, WATER ICE. Put one large spoonful of black currant jelly into a basin, add the juice of two lemons, a gill of syrup, and half a pint of water, strain it and freeze it rich. 1236. CURRANT ICES. Squeeze some picked currants through a sieve, add to the juice some clarified sugar, boiled to a very high degree, and, if you like, squeeze in the juice of four lemons—it will make it more mellow; strain them again through the sieve, put them in the icing pot, and finish the same as all other ices. 1237- PINE APPLE CREAM ICE. Use the syrup, and when getting thick add some small pieces of pine, cut in dice, all the other process as for former creams. 1238.—FRESH STRAWBERRY ICE OF CREAM. If for a quart mould rub through four or five ounces of the scarlet strawberries into a clean basin, sweeten it with some good thick syrup, the juice of a lemon, and half a pint of cream, a glass of clear jelly if you have it, in dissolved isinglass; in freezing work it well and repeatedly with your spoon, when it begins to thicken and stick ICES. 311 1244. CURRANT ICECREAM. Put one large spoonful and a half of currant jelly into a basin with half a gill of syrup, squeeze in one lemon and a half, add a pint of cream and a little cochineal, then pass it through a sieve and finish in the general way. 1245. CURRANT ICES. Take some picked currants and squeeze them through a sieve, then take some clarified sugar boiled to a high degree, add it to your currant juice, and if you like squeeze the juice of four lemons in it, which will make it more mellow, strain it through a sieve again, put then in an icing pot; finish the same as all other ices. 1246. WATER ICES GENERALLY. If made from jams you must rub them through a sieve, adding thick boiled syrup, and lemon juice, and some jelly, and colouring if for pink, and the white of an egg whipt up before you add it to the best half of a pint of spring water; if of jam, you must have a good pint of mixture in all to make a quart mould; if from fruits with syrup you will not require water. 1247- CURRANT FRESH WATER ICE. Pass through itsieve a pint of currants, then add to them four ounces of powdered sugar and one pint of water, strain it and freeze it rich. 1248. RED CURRANT WATER ICE. Use either the syrup from currants, or currant jelly dissolved, and half a pint of barley water, always cold, use a little lemon juice, the rest as for former ices. 1249. WHITE CURRANT WATER ICE. Press half a pint of juice from the white currants, strain them, add sufficient thick syrup to sweeten it, and a cup of barley water, or spring water, beat up the white of an egg, and put into it a glass of jelly if you have it, a little boiled isinglass, and freeze as before; these ices will, both pink and white, look well together. 1250. LEMON WATER ICE. Rub on sugar the clear rinds of lemons, squeeze the juice of twelve lemons, strain them, boil the sugar into astrong thick syrup, add to the juice half a pint of water, or good barley water, sweeten it with your syrup, add the white of an egg and jelly. 1251. ORANGE WATER ICE. Proceed exactly as before, only add a glass of brandy or Madeira; or without. 312 JELLIES. 1252.—FINECOCHINEAL COLOURING. Pound one ounce of cochineal in one pint of water, one ounce of roach alum, one ounce of cream of tartar, when all are boiled add one ounce of salts of wormwood, and the juice of three lemons, and two gills of spirits of wine. JELLIES. 1253.—aspic . Take a knuckle of veal, a knuckle of ham, a thick slice of beef, and if they will not make your jelly stiff enough add two calves' feet or some swards of bacon rasped; put them into a saucepan with a pint of rich stock, and sweat it over a stove until reduced to glaze, then moisten it with stock, boil and skim it well. Put to it two onions, two carrots, salt, parsley, scallions, four cloves, two bay leaves, and a clove of garlic ; let the whole stew for seven hours, then, strain off the liquor or consomme, break four eggs into a stewpau, and put to them the consomme when cold, the juice of two lemons, and a little tarragon, and beat it with a whisk over the fire till nearly boiling; and when it does so remove your stewpan to a smaller fire, and place fire on the lid for half an hour, then pass it through a wet napkin doubled; if the jelly is not sufficiently clear, clarify it a second time. Put a layer of this jelly an inch thick at the bottom of an aspic mould, garnish it with truffles, white of eggs, sprigs of parsley, according to your taste, pour in another half inch of the jelly while liquid with great care so as not to discompose your garnish, then put either calf s brains, breast of fowls, veal, sweetbreads, or game; be sure to lay whatever you use as smooth as possible, then fill up your mould with jelly and let it lie till set; when wanted, dip your mould in hot water an instant, place your dish on the top, and turn it over. 1254.—ASPIC JELLY. Boil a neat's foot the same as calves' feet; when boiled and cleaned as in No. 1264, instead of spices use beet-roots, sweet herbs, parsley, and onions, and some good second stock, use eggs likewise, season with salt, pepper, a dust of sugar, tarragon vinegar, and common vinegar, boil and run it through a jelly bag as before. 1255. C LEA It APPLE JELLY. Pare and core five dozen of lemon pippins, put them in a pan with as much water as will cover them, let them boil gently until soft, let them get cold, then strain them through a jelly bag, put the juice in your preserving-pan, and to each pint of juice put one pound of fine sugar and the peel of two lemons, then boil it until it is reduced to the stiffness of calves' foot jelly, skim it well, add the juice of a lemon; it should be made in September, the flavour of the apple is better, if you cannot get the pippin any acid apple will do JELLIES. 313 1256. APPLE JELLY ANOTHER WAY. Peel any kind of sharp apples, cut them in slices and wash them in several waters, then boil them in a covered pot with a good deal of water until it is much reduced, and becomes glutinous, strain it through a thin cloth, measure it, and refine an equal quantity of clarified sugar to the twelfth degree, and pour the apples into it, boil it up and skim it, boil again until it quits the spoon clear by dropping out of it. 1257- APPLE JELLY. Pick and wipe twenty golden pippins, boil them until tender in a pint and a half of spring water, strain off the liquor, put a pound of white sugar to every pint, add a little grated orange or lemon peel to flavour it, and boil to a jelly. 1258. TO MAKE BED APPLES IN JELLY. Take a quantity of fine apples, pare and core them, throwing them into water as you do them, put them into a preserving pan, they must not be close enough to touch, half cover them with water, let them coddle, turning them when the lower side is done, add to the water a little pounded cochineal, and boil it with the fruit; when they are done tender lay them upon the dish upon which you are going to serve them, with the stalks downwards; make a rich jelly with the loaf sugar, boil in it the juice of a lemon; and the thin rind. When it comes to a jelly let it get cold, then lay it among and over the apples, the lemon peel may be cut in strips and laid across the apples. It is necessary to observe that the colour of the apples should be a bright red from the first, and kept so, but great care must be taken not to use too much cochineal, or it will impart to the syrup a bitter flavour. 1259. AN APPLE JLELY FOR PRESERVING APRICOTS. If in summer take any quantity of codlins, pare, quarter, and core them, put them into a stewpan, barely cover them with water and boil very rapidly; as soon as the fruit is in a mash add a quart of water, boil for thirty minutes, and then run it through a jelly-bag. Golden rennets or winter pippins should be used if this jelly is made in the autumn; it will do for any sort of sweet meat. 1260.—APRICOTS IN JELLY. The fruit must be pared very thin and stoned, take the weight as before, and then sift over an equal quantity of finely powdered white sugar; let it remain in the sugar until the following day, then boil very gently until clear, put them into a bowl and pour the syrup over them; let them remain twenty-four hours, make a quart of codlin- liquor by boiling, straining, and the addition of a pound of white sugar, to this pour the syrup from the apricots, boil it quickly until it jellies, then put the fruit into it, boil it once only, skim it thoroughly, and put it into small jars. 314 JELLIES. 1261. APRICOT JELLY. Take eighteen fine apricots, let them be of a nice red colour, stone them, and cut them in pieces into some syrup, usually made with twelve ounces of sugar, but for apricot jelly it should be rather more liquid than for other jellies; when the fruit is done, put it into a napkin to express out all the juice you possibly can, which you must add to the syrup in which the apricots have been done, and which has been previously strained through a silk sieve, and after having mixed with it a proper quantity of isinglass to thicken it, finish the same as all other jellies. 1262.—BARBERRY JELLY. Put a pint of barberries into a stewpan with boiling water, cotct close and let it stand till nearly cold, set on the fire some clarified Eugar with a little water, making a quart altogether, when it begins to boil skim it well, put in the barberries, let them boil an hour, squeeze the juice of three lemons through a sieve into a basin, to this pass the liquor from the barberries, and then the isinglass. 1263. COLOURING FOR JELLIES, CAKES, ETC. For a beautiful red boil fifteen grains of cochineal in the finest powder with a dram and a half of cream of tartar in half a pint of water, very slowly,half an hour; add in boiling a bit of alum, the the size of a pea, or use beetroot sliced, and some liquor poured over. For white use almonds finely powdered, with a little drop of water, or use cream. For yellow, yolks of eggs, or a bit of saffron steeped in the liquor and squeezed. For green, pound spinach leaves or beet leaves, express the juice, and boil a tea-cupful in a saucepan of water to take off the rawness. 1264.—calves' foot jelly. For one mould chop up two calves' feet, put them on in about four quarts of water to boil, this should be done the day before you require the jelly, keep it well skimmed and boil gently all day, it will then be reduced to about two quarts; the next morning take off all the grease and wash the top with a little warm water, then rinse it with cold, place the stock in the proper size stewpan to allow it to boil well, then put in a paring of lemon, without any white adhering to it, two or three cloves, a piece of cinnamon, a few bruised coriander seeds, and a bay leaf, let it boil for a few minutes then take it off to get cool. Have ready broken in a basin six or eight whites of eggs and the shells, chop them up together, squeeze five or six lemons, strain the juice, add sugar to the whites of eggs and a glass of cold water, then add the lemon juice; add all this well mixed into the calves' foot stock, place it on your fire and let it rise to the top of your stewpan, be careful it does not go over, then take it off the fire, place on the cover and put some hot coals upon 3 I 6 JELLIES. gently, keeping it well skimmed until quite clear, then boil it until it will quickly jelly upon a plate, then fill your jars. 1271. CHERRY JELLY. Having taken the stalks and stones from two pounds of dark red fleshy cherries put them in a basin, pound the kernels, and squeeze the juice of four lemons through a tammy, mash the cherries with a wooden spoon, putting first in half a pot of currant jelly, then the kernels, lastly the lemon juice, mix these together well, then having boiled and skimmed a pint of clarified sugar and isinglass put the cherries into a jelly bag, pour the sugar, &c. over them, run it through till quite clear; if not sufficiently sweet add more sugar, if to the contrary add more lemon juice, wet the mould, set it in ice, and fill it with the jelly, do not turn it out till the last minute. 12/2.—DAMSON JELLY. To eight pounds of damsons put eight pounds of fine sugar and half a pint of water, boil them for half an hour over a gentle fire till the skins break, then take them off and set them by for an hour, set them off the fire again for half an hour more, set them on the fire again for half an hour, set them by for the same time, do the same a third time, while they stand off the fire put a weight upon them to keep them under the syrup; the last time you must boil them till you perceive they are of a very high colour in the part where the skin is broken, then take them off, set them by to cool, and when they are cold drain off the syrup, and make the jelly in the following manner. Boil a good quantity of green apples, green gooseberries, and quince cores to a mash, then strain them through a sieve, take an equal quantity of this jelly and the former syrup, and boil them over a gentle fire together till they jelly, skim it well, and while it is hot put it into glasses or pots. 1273. JELLIES FOK ENTREMETS. Hartshorn, calves' feet, and isinglass are the usual materials used to coagulate sweet jellies, of these three the latter is the best, as when properly clarified it is the clearest, and has no unpleasant flavour. Jellies are made of all sorts of fruits, and sometimes of flowers and liqueurs; for directions to prepare them see the various articles of which they are composed. 1174.—JELLY, TO KEEP. Take a leg of beef and two shins, cut in pieces a knuckle of veal, chop it all to pieces, one or two old cocks and hens skinned, and two calves' feet, put all these into ten quarts of water, and boil them down to a strong jelly, skim it well, add some salt and run it through a jelly bag till it is quite clear. JELLIES. 317 1275. JELLY TO COVER COLD FISH Take a maid, clean it, and put it into three quarts of water, with a calf's foot, or cow-heel, a stick of horse-radish, an onion, three blades of mace, some white pepper, a bit of lemon peel, and a slice of lean gammon of bacon, let it stew till it will jelly, then strain it off, when cold remove every bit of fat, take it up from the sediment and boil it with a glass of sherry, the whites of five eggs, and a bit of lemon, boil without stirring it, and after a few minutes set it by to stand for half an hour, and strain it through a bag or sieve, with a napkin in it, when cold cover the fish with it. 127C. JELLY SAVOURY TO PUT OVER COLD PIES. It should be made of a small bare knuckle, or leg, or shoulder of veal, or a piece of scrag of mutton; or if it is made of fowls, or or rabbits, the carcasses, necks, or heads, added to any piece of meat, will be sufficient, observing to give consistence by cow-heel or shanks of mutton, put the meat with a slice of ham, or bacon, a bundle of different herbs, two blades of mace, an onion or two, a small bit of lemon peel, and a tea-spoonful of Jamaica pepper bruised, and the same quantity of whole pepper, and three pints of water, into a stewpan that shuts very close, when it boils skim it well, and let it simmer slowly till quite strong, then strain it, and when cold take off all the fat you possibly can with a spoon, and then to remove every particle of grease lay a clean piece of cap or blotting paper on it, if when it is cold it is not clear boil it a few minutes, with the whites of two eggs, but do not add the sediment, and pour it through a nice sieve, with a napkin in it, which should be previously dipped in hot water, to prevent waste. 1277- LEMON JELLY. Set a pint and a half of clarified sugar on the fire, and dilute it with a little water, when it boils and has been well skimmed put in two ounces of clarified isinglass with a little lemon peel cut very thin; let these boil till you have squeezed through a sieve into a basin the juice of six lemons, then pass your sugar and isinglass to it, and set it in a mould as any other jelly, when turned out, garnish it with dried jellies. 127S. MOSAIC JELLY.This is made from three colours put into your mould by little pieces at a time, differing the colours each time, pink, white, and yellow, colour a little of your jelly with cochineal, the white as clear jelly; when your mould is nearly full have ready some jelly melted but not warm and fill up the mould. 1279. ORANGE JELLY-. Boil a neat's foot in two quarts of water all day, then strain it off and put it to get cold, take off the grease well and reduce the stock MARMALADES. 319 quarter of an hour, then put it into a large bottle with the kernels, and also some apricot kernels; to this add, if you wish, the ratafia deep-coloured, the juice of two or three pounds of black cherries, put to your juice a half or third of the best brandy, and then bottle it, and when the fermentation has ceased cork the bottles; if the air is excluded this ratafia will keep years. 1285. RUM JELLY. To a quart bottle of common white wine add a pound of lump sugar reduced to syrup and clarified, then take an ounce of isinglass, dissolve it thoroughly, strain it through a sieve and mix it with the rp milk warm, when this mixture is nearly cold pour it into white wine, stir it well so as to mix it completely, then add a spoonful or more according to the strength you desire of old Jamaica rum, stir it and pour it into a mould, or glasses if intended to hand round for evening parties. MABMALADES. 1286. MARMALADE. Marmalade may be composed almost of any fruit, the best however for this purpose are apricots, peaches, oranges, quinces, eggs, plums, apples, &C., they are usually made by boiling the fruit and sugar together to a kind of pulp, stirring them constantly whilst on the fire, it is kept in pots which must not be covered till the marmalade is quite cold, the proportion of sugar is half a pound to each pound of fruit. 1287-—MARMALADE OT AWLES. Scald apples until they will pulp from the core, then take in large lumps the same quantity of sugar as apple; damp the sugar in water, then boil them, keeping it well skimmed, boil it until it is a thick syrup, then put it to the pulped apple, boil it over a quick fire for about a quarter of an hour, add the grating of one lemon and six cloves, but take out the cloves again, fill your jars. 1 280. MARMALADE TRANSPARENT. Select very pale Seville oranges, cut them into quarters, and remove the pulp; put it into a basin and take away all skin and seeds. Soak all night the peels in a little salt and water, then boil them in a good quantity of spring water till tender; cut them in very thin slices and add them to the pulps. To every pound of marmalade add one and a half pounds of double refined sugar finely sifted, and boil them together gently for twenty minutes. If it is not sufficiently clear, boil or simmer for five or six minutes longer; keep stirring gently all the time, taking care not to break the slices. When cold put it into jelly or sweetmeat glasses, and tie down with brandied paper. MARMALADES. 321 1293. BARBERRY MARMALADE. Take three pounds of very ripe barberries, the same quantity of sugar, and a pound of water; put the water into a deep, broad, silver, or copper pan, and as you take the seeds out of the barberries, throw the latter into water, then give them a few boilings over the fire; after this put them into a sieve, and bruise them to extract the pulp, which must again be put over the fire, until the moisture has entirely eva- porated. This done, if the pan, in which you put your barberries at first was of copper, pour the pulp, which was extracted from the fruit, into an earthen vessel, to prevent the acid of the fruit, when heated, from acting on the copper; but if your vessel was silver, you may safely put your pulp into it, when heated; then pour upon the pulp the sugar, which must be previously clarified and boiled au casse; give the whole a few boilings, stirring it well with a wooden spoon; then, pour your marmalade into pots. 1294.—CHERRY MARMALADE. Boil two pounds of sugar with two glasses of water, skim it well until, on shaking the skimmer after dipping it in the sugar, the latter drops from it like icicles, then you may put in four pounds of cherries picked and stoned; boil them, and when the marmalade flows readily take it from the fire and put it into pots. 1295.—CURRANT MARMALADE. Strip your currants off from the bunches, and soak them in boiling water until they break, then take them off the fire and lay them on a sieve to drain, and when they are cold pass them through the same sieve to clear off the seeds, and then dry them over the fire till you bring your sugar to the fifth degree of boiling, allowing as much sugar as fruit, mix all well together, simmer it over the fire some time, then put the marmalade into pots. 1296.—ORANGE MARMALADE. Blanch the rinds of fifteen oranges without any of the white till soft, then soak them in cold water for a few minutes, drain and pound them to a paste, which rub through a sieve; ascertain its weight, and for each pound allow a pound and a half of sugar; clarify and boil the sugar till the bubbles rise strongly to the surface; put in the paste and boil them together stirring continually till the mar- malade is done. To know when the marmalade is fit to turn out and be potted take some up between your thumb and finger, and if on opening them it draws out like a thread it is done. 1297.—ORANGE MARMALADE. Take eight Seville oranges, three lemons, pare them very thin; take out all the juice and pulp, lay the peels in twenty-four hours, changing them once or twice, lay them on a coarse cloth to drain, T 322 BLANCMANGES. then take the weight of juice, pulp, and peel in lump sugar; boil the -whole a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes. The peel should be cut in long narrow strips, be careful not to leave any seeds or white part of the rind. 1298.—QUINCE MARMALADE. Gather the fruit when fully ripe and of a fine yellow; pare, quarter, and core it, put the quinces into a saucepan with a little water, set them on the fire until they are quite soft, then take them out and lay them on a sieve to drain; rub them through, weigh the pulp, boil an equal quantity of sugar to petit casse, then add the pulp; stir them together over the fire until it will fall from the spoon like a jelly. The marmalade is then fit to be put into pots, and when cold cover them close. 1299.—RASPBERRY MARMALADE. Take double the weight of raspberries to that of sugar; rub the fruit through a sieve and put the pulp into a saucepan, set it on the fire and stir till it is reduced to half, then pour on the sugar previously clarified and boiled to petit boule, stir it well in, put it on the fire, give it a few boils and then pour it into pots. BLANCMANGES. 1300. BLANCMANGE. In three pints of water put two ounces of isinglass; let it boil for thirty minutes, strain it into a pint and a half of cream, sweeten it, and add a few bitter almonds; boil it up once let it settle, then turn it into any mould you intend to use. 1301. BLANCMANGE. Take one ounce of picked isinglass, boil it in a pint of water with a bit of cinamon till it is melted, add three quarters of a pint of cream, two ounces of sweet almonds, six bitter ones blanched and beaten, a bit of lemon peel; sweeten it and stir it over the fire. When it boils strain it and let it cool, squeeze in the juice of a lemon, and put into moulds. It may be garnished according to fancy. 1302. RICE BLANCMANGE. Take one pint of new milk, add to it two eggs well beaten, four spoonfuls of ground rice, two spoonfuls of brandy, grate a little nutmeg, sweeten it to your taste, boil it; when near cold put it into your mould, when quite cold turn it out, mix a little sugar, cream, and nutmeg, and put round it in the dish; garnish with red currant jelly. 1303.—BLANCMANGE EN SURPRISE. Take the crumb from a rasped pain a cafe, without injuring the BLANCMANGES. 323 crust, which ice with powdered sugar and orange flower water; place it a minute in the oven or stove to dry, fill the inside with blanc- mange, place it in a dish and cover it with firm blancmange in the form of a pyramid. 1304. BLANCMANGE WITH PRESERVED ORANGE. I Fill the orange with blancmange; when cold stick in long sticks of citron like leaves. Pour blancmange in a dish and when cold place the orange in the middle, and garnish with dried or preserved fruit. 1305. BLANCMANGE (hot). Blanch a pound of sweet almonds with eight bitter almonds, pound them very fine, and put them into a stewpan, then put the same quantity of cream, with a quarter more into another stewpan, and boil it with some sugar, and when it boils put in your almonds; mix them, well together, and then pass them through a boiling cloth a quarter of an hour before you wish to serve it; put your preparation over the fire, turning it the same as a bouilli; reduce it, and continue turning until it is thick and keeps to the spoon, then pour it into a silver dish, and serve. 1306. BLANCMANGE, BUTCH. Put a pint of cleared calves' foot jelly into a stewpan, mix with it the yolks of six eggs, set it over a fire, and whisk till it begins to boil, then set the pan in cold water, and stir the mixture till nearly cold to prevent it from curdling, and when it begins to thicken fill the moulds. 1307.—BLANCMANGE A LA FRAN^AISE. Blanch one pound of sweet and a score of bitter almonds, drain them on a sieve, and afterwards dry them by rubbing them in a napkin, pound them in a mortar, continually moistening them with half a tea-spoonful of water at a time, to prevent their oiling. When they are pounded as fine as possible take them out of the mortar, and put them into a pan, then with a silver spoon beat up your almonds gradually with five glasses of filtered water; after this spread a napkin over an oval dish, and put your almonds upon it, then gather up the corners of your napkin, and wring it very tight to press out all the milk from the almonds, then put into this milk twelve ounces of crystallized sugar broken into small pieces. When the sugar is dissolved pass the whole through a napkin, and then add to it one ounce of clarified isinglass rather warmer than lukewarm, and when the whole is well incorporated together pour it into your mould; your mould should be previously put into ten pounds of pounded ice; when your blancmange is ready to serve, which will be in two hours after it has been put into the mould, you must take it out. T2 324 CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. CHAPTER XIX. CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. vest common disco- very made by those who preserve fruits, &c., for family use, and are not suffici- ently versed in the art of confectionery, is that the preserve either ferments, grows 'mouldy, or becomes candied. These three effects arise from three separate causes. The first from insufficient boiling; the se- cond from being kept in a damp place, assisted in some degree by the first cause; and the third from too quick and too long boiling. Preserves of all kinds should be kept entirely secluded from the air, and in a dry place. In ranging them on the shelves of a store-closet, they should not be suffered to come in contact with the wall. Mois- ture in winter and spring exudes from some of the driest walls, and preserves invariably imbibe it, both in dampness and taste. It is necessary occasionally to look at them, and if they have been attacked by mould, boil them up gently again. To prevent all risks it is always as well to lay a brandy paper over the fruit before tying down. This may be renewed in the spring. Fruit jellies are made in the ratio of a quart of fruit to two pounds of sugar. They must not be quick boiled, nor very long. Practice and a general discretion will be found the best guides to regulate the exact time which necessarily must be affected, more or less, by local causes. If you do not possess a drying-stove, the fruit may be dried in the sun on flagstones, taking care that insects are not suffered to approach CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. 325 it—a garden-glass to cover the preserve will keep them off. If dried in an oven, it must be of gentle warmth, and they must be suffered only to be done slowly. SUGAR. DIFFERENT DEGREES OF PREPARING SUGAR. The various purposes to which sugar is applied require it to be in different states; these are called degrees. They extend to the num- ber of thirteen, and are named in the following order:— Petit Lute, or First degree.—Replace the clarified sugar in the preserving-pan to boil gently, take a drop of it on the thumb, touch it with the forefinger; if on opening them it draws to a fine thread, and in breaking forms two drops on each finger, it is at the right point. Lisse, Second degree.—A little more boiling brings it to this point, when the thread will draw further before it breaks. Petit Perle, Third degree.—At this point the thread may be draw as far as the span will open without breaking. Grand Perle, Fourth degree.—On still increasing the boiling little raised balls are formed on the surface of the sugar. Petit Queue de Cochon, Fifth degree.—Take up some of the sugar on a skimmer, and drop it on the rest, when it should form a slanting streaks on the surface. Grande Queue de Cochon, Sixth degree.—Boil it yet a little longer; the streak or tail is now larger, and it has reached this point. Souffle, Seventh degree.—lake out a skimmerful of the sugar, blow through it and small sparks of sugar will fly from it. Petit Plume, Eighth degree.—The same proof as above; the sparks should be larger and stronger. Gfrande Plume, Ninth degree.—Take the sugar in the skimmer as before; give it a shake, and if the sparks are large, and adhere toge- ther on rising, it is at the right point. Petit Boulet, Tenth degree.—Dip your fingers in cold water, and then into the sugar instantly, and again into the water, when the sugar will roll into a ball which will be supple when cold. Gros Boulet, Eleventh degree.—At this point the ball or bullet will be harder when cold than the last. Caste, Twelfth degree.—Prove as above; the bullet should crum- ble between the fingers, and on biting will stick to the teeth. Caramel, Thirteenth degree.—At this point it should snap clean when bitten. This point is very difficult to attain, for in increasing the height, the sugar is apt to burn, it is better therefore to try the proof very frequently. Another caramel is much used by the confectioner, and is of a deep colour, it is made by putting a little water to the sugar, and boiling it without skimming or otherwise touching the sugar till of the right colour, then take it off, and use immediately. If on preparing the sugar, you happen to miss the right point, add a little cold water, and boil once more. 326 CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. Observations. The skimmer should never be left in the preserving- pan after the sugar is clarified, nor after the scum is removed. Be very careful not to stir or disturb the sugar, as that would cause its diminution. In boiling the sugar, particularly the two last degrees, the sugar is continuously rising and falling, and on falling leaves marks on the side of the pan, which the heat of the fire would soon burn and thereby spoil the whole of the sugar. To avoid this have by the side of you a pan of cold water, and a sponge, upon which wipe the sides of the pan carefully the instant after the sugar has fallen. 1308. TO CLARIFY SUGAR. Take the quantity of fine white loaf sugar you intend to clarify, add to it of very clean warm water half a pint for every pound; when dissolved add to it the white of one or two eggs—as the quantity may require—well whipped, put it on the fire, and when it comes to a boil pour into it an ordinary tea-cupful of cold water; on its rising again to a boil remove it and let it settle for twenty minutes, skim the scum from the top, pour off the syrup into a clean vessel with sufficient quickness to leave all the sediment at the bottom, and such steadiness as to prevent any of the latter rising and mixing with it. 1309. SUGAR, TO CLARIFY. Break into pieces four pounds of sugar; into a preserving-pan put the white of an egg, and a glass of clean spring water: mix them well with a whisk; add another, still whipping, until you have added two quarts of water: when the pan is full of froth throw in the sugar, and set it on the fire, being very careful to skim it every time the scum rises, which will be the case as the sugar boils up. After a few boilings, the sugar will rise so high as to run over the edges of the pan, to prevent which throw on it a little cold water; this will lower it instantly, and give time for the skimming, for the scum should never be removed while the sugar is bubbling. The cold water stills it, and that is the moment to skim it. Repeat this operation carefully three or four times, when a whitish light scum only will rise; then take the pan off, lay a napkin, slightly wetted, over a basin, and pour the sugar through it. The scum thus taken off put into a china basin, and when the sugar is clarified wash the pan and the skimmer with a glass of water, which put to the scum, and set aside for more common purposes. 1310.—TO BOIL SUGAR FOR BASKETS OR SPINNING. Fill quite full a pint and a half stewpan with pieces of lump sugar, fill the stew-pan with clear spring water, let the water barely cover the sugar, put it on to boil, skim it all the time that any scum arises; let it boil fast with the stew-pan flat upon the fire, not half- way; it will not boil over if your fire is regular. Then get ready a large basin of cold water, and when it has boiled some time and begins to appear all froth or bladders do not go away and leave it; after having boiled so for some few minutes have a silver spoon CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. 327 and dip it into it, and then into the water, if it is getting to a substance pour in the juice of half a lemon, free from pips, still keeping it boiling on the fire, keep frequently trying it by dropping and spinning a little in the cold water, and when it makes a crack- ling noise and is very brittle take off your stewpan and pour it into a cold stewpan; work it well with your spoon, give it one more boil, then take it off and hold the stewpan in cold water, stirring it all the time, for a minute or two, it is then ready for a basket, or spinning, or what you may require it for. It is but very little used now for second courses; at breakfasts and ball suppers it is generally introduced and liked, but it too frequently answers the purpose of lock and key, saying as much, "this must not be touched;" many think it will do again, and do not like to break through it. 1311. COLOURED SUGARS FOR ORNAMENTING. Pound some sugar, and sift it through a coarse sieve, lay a little upon a plate, pour into it a few drops of carmine, or prepared cochineal, mixing it well in, then put it into your screen to dry, stirring it frequently, keep it dry in a canister for use when required. 1312. GREEN COLOURED SUGAR. Pound a few handfuls of fresh gathered young spinach, let it be well washed and drained from the water, pound it well, stalks and all, then twist it through a tammy cloth into a stewpan with a little salt, put this liquor on the fire to simmer, and when it is well curdled strain off the water from the curd upon the back of a lawn sieve, rub it through the sieve on to a plate; use some of this to some sifted sugar, as for the former. This is the wholesome colouring in green pea soups or forcemeats 1313.—CARAMEL CONSERVE. Clarify the quantity of sugar you may require, and boil it to caramel; have ready some cases of double paper, pour in your sugar to the thickness of half an inch, and trace ou its surface the forms you wish it to have; when cold break it according to those marks. This conserve may be coloured and flavoured according to the fancy. 1314.—SUGAR A LA NEIGG. Blanch a quarter of a pound of bitter almonds, pound them to a very fine paste in a marble mortar, with the whites of four eggs; when perfectly smooth add a pound of the best lump sugar (pow- dered), and five more whites of eggs, stir all together well until of such consistency, that it may be kneaded without adhering to the hands; divide into two parts, tinge one with a red colour either with cochineal or bolut armena, perfume it with essential oil of roses or bergamot. The other portion white must be thus flavoured ; grate the rind of two fine lemons on a small piece of sugar, scrape off the surface, and when pounded in a small mortar work it into the white paste, 328 CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. sprinkle your slab with powdered sugar, then roll out to about half an inch in thickness the paste, cut it with a paste cutter about two inches in diameter, arrange them on white paper which place on a baking-tin, and put them into a moderate oven for three quarters of an hour. Proceed the same with the coloured paste. Detach them from the paper when cold. 1315. SUGAR PASTE. One pound of flour, four ounces of sugar, four ounces of butter, a little salt, one egg, mix together with a little water. This is an excellent paste for a second course dish. 1316. TO CANDY FRUIT. Having prepared your fruit, steep it in the syrup, and lay it as done in an open sieve, until the bottom is covered with one layer; steep this suddenly in scalding water. This will remove any syrup which may cling to the fruit. Lay them aside on a napkin to drain, and go on with the others. You will have ready, finely-powdered, some of the best loaf sugar, sift this over the fruit until they are white all over, without being too thickly encrusted; lay them so as not to touch each other on strainers or the reverse end of small sieves; place them in a gently-warmed oven, watch them carefully, turning them until dry. The warmth of the oven must not be in- creased, but must not abate until the fruit is quite dry. 1317. GREEN APRICOTS, TO PRESERVE. In your preserving-pan place a layer of green vine-leaves, then a layer of apricots, then vine-leaves, and so on alternately until you have completed the quantity you intend to preserve or the pan is filled, seeing that the last layer is a thick one of leaves; fill the pan up with spring water and cover down close; put the pan at such a distance from the fire, that after heating slowly for five hours the fruit shall have become soft without cracking; drain off the water and make a thin syrup of it, remove the fruit and inspect it to see that none of them are cracked. When fruit and syrup are quite cold return the fruit to the pan, add the syrup to it, and then place them at such a distance from the fire that the apricots will green without cracking; it must be understood that they do not boil. Put the fruit and syrup into a pan for three days, drain off as much syrup as you intend to use, to this add more sugar, and boil until it becomes a rich thick syrup; drain off the rest of the syrup from the fruit, and pour the thick over it when cold. The thin syrup remaining need not be wasted, it will be found useful in sweetening pies, &c."' 1318.—APRICOTS, TO PRESERVE. Choose fine apricots, pare them thinly and cleanly, and when done take their weight, cut them in halves and remove the kernels, lay them with the inside upwards, take the same weight of pounded loaf CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. 329 sugar and strew over them; break the stones of the apricots and blanch the kernels; let the fruit lie in the sugar for twelve hours, then put fruit, sugar, juice, and kernels into a preserving-pan, sim- mer gently until clear; as the scum rises remove it; remove the halves of the apricots; as they become cold lay them in jars, and when the whole of the fruit has been potted, pour equally over them the syrup and the kernels. Cover the fruit with brandy paper and tie tightly down. 1319. APRICOTS, TO DRY IN IIALVES. Take two pounds of apricots, pare them quite thin, halve them, remove the stones and lay them in a dish; powder over them one pound and a half of fine white sugar, when the sugar has dissolved place the fruit upon a stove, let them do gently, as each half becomes tender remove it, and put it in a china bowl; when they are all done and the syrup cooled a little, pour it over them. In a couple of days remove the syrup, leaving a little only clinging to each half, turn them in a day or so, and continue until they are quite dry, this may be achieved more quickly by laying them in the sun or a very dry place. They may be kept in boxes, with layers of white paper over them. 1320. APRICOTS IN BRANDY. Pick the fruit, wipe it, and then take the weight, put it into an ice-pot, the lid of which fits very close; add one-fourth of the weight in finely-powdered white sugar, cover the fruit with the best brown brandy, lay over the fruit a piece of foolscap paper doubled, cover down the lid and place the ice-pot in a saucepan of hot water, increasing the heat until the brandy is sufficiently hot to admit your finger remaining in it, it must not however boil; take out the fruit when this takes place, put it into a jar and pour the brandy over it. As soon as quite cold tie bladder-skin tightly over the jars. Peaches may be preserved in the same way. 1321. APRICOTS, TO PRESERVE—ANOTHER WAY. Pare your apricots, and stone what you can whole, then give them a slight boiling in water proportioned to the quantity of fruit, only just enough; then take the weight of the apricots in sugar, and take the liquor in which they have boiled, and the sugar, and boil it till it comes to a syrup, and give them a light boiling, taking off the scum as it rises; when the syrup jellies it is enough. Then take up the apricots, and cover them with the jelly, put cut paper over them, and lay them down when cold. 1322. APRICOTS, CONSERVE OF. ^ Take half ripe apricots and cut them into thin slices, dry them over a gentle fire; to four ounces of fruit put one pound of sugar boiled to the degree la plume forte, when the sugar is nearly cold 330 CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUIT8, ETC. put in the fruit, taking care to stir it well with a spoon that they may be well incorporated. 1323. APPLES, GOLDEN PIPPINS, TO PRESERVE. Take the rind of an orange and boil it very tender, lay it in cold water for three days, take two dozen golden pippins, pare, core, and quarter them, boil them to a strong jelly, and run it through a jelly bag till it is clear. Take the same quantity of pippins, pare and core them, and put three pounds of loaf sugar in a preserving-pan with a pint and a half of spring water, let it boil, skim it well, and put in your pippins with the orange rind cut into long thin slips, then let them boil fast till the sugar becomes thick and will almost candy; then put in a pint and a half of pippin jelly, and boil fast till the jelly is clear, then squeeze in the juice of a fine lemon, give the whole another boil, and put the pippins in pots or glasses with the orange peel. Lemon peel may be used instead of orange, but then it must only be boiled and not soaked. 1324. APPLES, DRIED. The apples to be dried should be put seven or eight times in a slightly warmed oven, flattening them by degrees as they grow tender. The biffin is the apple mostly used, but the French crab or any tart apple will do. 132f>. APPLES, TO BAKE WHOLE. Put some sound apples into a pan with a little cloves, a small por- tion of lemon peel, some brown sugar, a glass of red wine, or accord- ing to the quantity of fruit; put them into a quick oven and bake them at least one hour. The sugar in quantity must be regulated according to the number of apples. 1326.—apples (pippins) preserved in slices. When the pippins are prepared, but not cored, cut them into slices; take their equal weight of loaf sugar, put to the sugar a sufficient quantity of water, let the sugar dissolve, skim it, and let it boil again very high; then put the fruit into the syrup. When they are clear lay them in shallow glasses in which they are to be served, then put into the syrup a candied orange peel cut into thin slices, and lay them about the pippins^ cover them with syrup, and keep them about the pippins. 1327- TO KEEP CODLINO APPLES. They should be gathered when a good size, not too large, and put into an earthen pan, pour enough boiling water over them to just cover them, and lay over the pan some fresh cabbage leaves, let them remain by the fire until they would peel easily—but they must not be peeled—then pour off the water, and let both remain until quite cold. The codlings should now be put into a stone jar, with a some- CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. 331 what narrow mouth, fill up the jar with the water which scalded them, wet a piece of bladder skin and tie down very close, over this tie some brown paper, so tight as to exclude all air. 1328. APPLES, GREEN CODLINGS, TO PRESERVE. Gather the codlings when not bigger than French walnuts with the stalks, and a leaf or two of each. Put a handful of vine leaves into a preserving-pan, then a layer of codlings and vine leaves alter- nately, until it is full with vine leaves pretty thickly strewed on the top, and fill the pan with spring water, cover it close to keep in the steam, and set it on a slow fire till the apples become soft; take them out and pare off the rinds with a pen-knife, and then put them into the same water again with the vine leaves, but taking care that the water has become quite cold, or it will cause them to crack; put in a little rock-alum, and set them over a slow fire till they are green, then take them out and lay them on a sieve to drain, make a good syrup, and give them a gentle boil three successive days, then put them in small jars with brandy paper over them, and tie them down tight. 1329. ARTICHOKES, PRESERVED WHOLE. Choose middle-sized artichokes, take off all the useless leaves, and trim them, plunge them into boiling and cold water, when drained put them into bottles, make them air tight, surround the bottles with cloths, and place them in a kettleful of cold water, cover the lid also with wet cloths; when it has been boiling about two hours, take the kettle from the fire; in a quarter of an hour draw off the water, and uncover the kettle; do not take out the bottles in less than an hour; the next day tar the bottles 1330. ARTICHOKES, PRESERVED—THE SPANISH WAY. Take the largest artichokes, cut off the tops of the leaves, wash and well drain them; to every artichoke pour in a table-spoonful of Flo- rence oil, and season them with pepper and salt; bake them in an oven, and they will keep for ten or twelve months. 1331.—ASPARAGUS, BOTTLED. Clean the asparagus as for boiling; before you bottle them plunge them first into boiling then into cold water; place those which are un- broken carefully into bottles, the heads downwards, proceed in the same manner as in doing the artichokes. 1332. BARBERRY DROPS. Cut off the black tops, roast the fruit before the fire until soft enough to pulp with a silver or wooden spoon through a sieve into a china or earthenware basin; put the basin into a saucepan which is not quite large enough to admit the top rim of the former, put it on a slow fire, and stir until it grows thick, now let it grow cold, 332 CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. measure it, to every pint add of the very finest loaf sugar pounded one pound and a half. It is necessary that the sugar should be very finely powdered, and sifted through a lawn sieve; incorporate the sugar and barberries by beating up for at least three hours, that is if the quantity is large, an hour less will suffice for a smaller quantity, drop it on sheets of white foolscap paper, they will dry in any dry place. 1333. BARBERRIES, TO PREPARE FOR TARTLETS. Take of barberries which are without stones, the quantity you intend to use, weigh, and for every pound put aside three quarters of a pound of loaf sugar, put the barberries in a stone jar, and put it nearly to the neck in warm water, let it simmer until the fruit is soft, then turn them into the preserving pan, add the sugar, and boil gently a quarter of an hour. As the fruit is a strong acid no metal but silver should be used. 1334. BARBERRIES, TO CANDY. Take the barberries out of the preserve, and wash off the syrup in warm water, then sift over them some fine sugar, and set them in an oven, often moving them and strewing sugar upon them until they are dry. 1335. BARBERRIES PRESERVED IN BUNCHES. Choose those barberries which have the largest seeds, which may be extracted carefully with the nib of a pen, weigh your fruit, and mix it with an equal weight of sugar boiled to petit boulet, boil them together two or three times, and skim it, set it aside in an earthen vessel until the next day, when it may be put in pots, and covered. 1336. BEANS, GARDEN, PRESERVED. Shell the beans when they are about half an inch long, and blanch them, put them into bottles with a bunch of savory in each; close the bottles hermetically, and proceed according to the directions for preserving asparagus; leave them in the bain-marie one hour and a half. If you wish to preserve them in their coats take care to put them into bottles the moment they are shelled, as they change colour so quickly. An hour in the bain-marie is sufficient for them. 1337-—BISCUIT OF PRESERVED FRUITS OR SWEETMEATS. Take dried preserved fruits, such as apricots, grapes, plums, oranges, and a little orange-flower marmalade, pound them together, and sift in a sieve; mix the yolks of new laid eggs, and fine pow- dered sugar therewith till it comes to a paste, but not too liquid; bake upon paper in a moderate oven. 1338.—BLACK TOPS,WHOLE. Cut off the stalk end of the apple, remove the core without paring, CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. 333 mix powdered white sugar, a little grated lemon peel, and a little powdered cloves, force this into the holes made by removing the cores, lay the flat end of the apples down on a stewpan, put in equal quantities of raisin wine and water sufficient only to half cover the apples, set them over a very slow fire, cover down, look at them occasionally, and baste with the liquor; when they are enough done black the tops with a salamander. 1339. BLACK TOPS—SIMPLE RECEIPT. Halve and core some large apples, lay them in a shallow pan, and sift some white sugar over them, bake them until tender through, make a sauce of one glass of wine, and one glass of water, boiled sweeten to taste. 1340. BULLACES, TO PRESERVE. Prick the fruit, throw them into scalding water for a minute, take them clean from the water, strew over them powdered lump sugar; the next day pour off the syrup, boil and skim it, pour it over the bullaces, and let it stand a day or two; boil the syrup again, put in the fruit, and boil them together; be careful not to mash them, and then put the preserves into jars. When cold put brandy papers; to a pound of fruit allow half a pound of sugar. 1341. BRANDY CHERRIES. Get the largest morel cherries you can, cut off half of the stalk pricking each cherry with a needle, putting them as you do them into a high glass; add three quarters of the weight in white candy sugar bruised between until full, a gill of Noyeau, and then fill up with French brandy, tie a bladder over the bottle. 1342. CHERRIES IN BRANDY. Choose the finest and ripest cherries, leave on half the stalks, and put them into very cold water, in about half an hour take them out and drain them on a sieve, weigh them; to every pound of fruit allow a quarter of a pound of sugar, when you have clarified and boiled it to grand perle, put in the fruit, boil them up two or three times stirring them gently with a skimmer, then take them from the fire carefully, and put the cherries into bottles, or glass jars; when filled add to each twelve cloves and half an ounce of cinnamon tied in a linen bag, put to the sugar when nearly cold, brandy in proportion of a pint and a half to a pound of fruit, mix them together well, and pour them on the cherries. In two months' time taste them, and if sufficiently flavoured, take out the cloves and cinnamon, cover the jars close. 1343. CHERRIES DRIED WITHOUT SUGAR. Stone your cherries and put them in their own liquor in your preserving pan, let them simmer gently, keep them moving, then put 334 CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. them on dishes all night; the next day repeat the same process over the fire, and when cold put them upon sieves to get dry, in a cool oven, an hour; do this at twice. Put them away in boxes with white paper between them. 1344.—TO DRY CHERRIES. To every five pounds of cherries add one pound of fine sugar, stone your cherries before you weigh them, then put the fruit into a pre- serving-pan with a little drop of water, scald them, then take them out and dry them; put them back in the pan, covering with "sugar each layer, when dissolved give it a scald as before, take them off and repeat this three or four times; then take them out of the pan to drain on a sieve, and lay them singly on dishes to dry in the sun or the hot closet. When dry put them in a sieve, have a pan that will admit the sieve into it, fill the pan with water, then dash as quick as you can the sieve through the cold water, then take out the cherries and lay them on cloths and well dry them, then place them again in the sun; when dry keep them in boxes with covers, with white paper between them. 1345.—CHERRIES PRESERVED DRY IN HUNCHES. Tie up some fine equal-sized cherries in bunches seven or eight in each, fasten them by the ends of the stalks, throw them into sugar boiled to souffle, let the cherries boil up in it fourteen or fifteen times, then skim and pour it into an earthen pan, set it on a stove till next day, when drain and lay out the cherries to dry. To each pound of fruit allow an equal quantity of sugar. 1346.—CHERRIES, TO CANDY. The fruit must be gathered before it is ripe, prick and stone them, boil clarified sugar, and pour it over them. 1347- CHERRIES, TO KEEP. Cut the stalks carefully from sound and perfectly dry cherries, and put them into clean and dry bottles, when full, cork them tight, and rosin or seal them, bury them in the ground, with the corks down- wards. 1348.—CHERRY JAM. Either Kentish or duke's cherries, quite ripe, blanch the kernels of some of them, use a pound of sugar, boil all well with the kernels until the jam will come clear from the pan; put into glass dishes. 1349.—CUERRY JAM. Take three pounds of fine cherries, stoned and boiled, bruise them, and strain the juice from them ; then take half a pound of red currant juice, and half a pound of loaf sugar, boil them together, put in the CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. 335 cherries whilst they are boiling and sprinkle on them three quarters of a pound of sifted sugar, let all boil very fast for half an hour and then put it into pots; when cold cover with brandy papers. 1350.—CHERRY JAM. Having stoned and boiled three pounds of fine cherries, bruise them, and let the juice run from them, then boil together half a pound of red currant juice, and half a pound of loaf sugar; put the cherries into these whilst they are boiling, and strew on them three quarters of a pound of sifted sugar, boil all together very fast for half an hour, and then put it into pots; when cold put on brandy papers. 1351.—CURRANT JAM, BLACK. Gather your currants on a dry day when they are full ripe, pick them from the stalks, wash them well in a basin, and to every pound of currants put a pound of double refined sugar beaten and sifted; put them into a preserving pan, boil them half an hour, skim and keep them stirring all the time, then put them into pots; when cold put brandy paper over them; and tie white paper over all. 1352.—CURRANT JAM OF ALL COLOURS. Strip your currants, and put them into your pan, with three quar- ters of a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit, add your sugar after your fruit has boiled a few minutes, boil all together mashing your fruit with a wooden spoon; boil all gently for half an hour, then fill your jars. 1353.—CTJRnANTS PRESERVED. Take the seeds and stalks from whatever quantity of currants you intend to use, of which a fourth part must be white currants; put them into a preserving pan with a glass of water, let them boil up until the fruit bursts then strain the juice twice, clarify and boil to caste some sugar, an equal weight to the fruit, pour the juice on it, boil them together a quarter of an hour, and having skimmed it well pour it into pots. 1354.—CURRANTS, TO PRESERVE THEM DRY. Stone your currants and tie them up in bunches; to every pound of currants boil two pounds of sugar till it boils very strong, dip in the currants, let them boil very fast till the sugar flies all over them; when settled a quarter of an hour boil them till the sugar rises almost to the top of the pan, let them settle, skim them and set them by till next day, then drain them and lay them out, taking care to spread the sprigs that they may not dry clogged together, dust them very much, and dry them in a hot stove. 1355.—CURRANTS FOR TARTS, TO PRESERVE. Put a pound of sugar into a preserving-pan; for every pound and 336 CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. a quarter of currants have a sufficient quantity of currant juice to dissolve the sugar; when it boils skim it, and put in the currants, and boil them till they are very clear; put them into a jar, cover them with brandy paper, and keep them in a dry place. 1356. CITRON, CANDIED. Pare the citrons very thin and narrow and throw them into water, these are called faggots; then cut the citron into slices of any thick- ness you think proper; take the inner part with great care so as to leave only the white ring and put them with the faggots into boiling water, when tender drain them; boil a sufficient quantity of clarified sugar to *ouffle, then put in the rings and boil them together, take it from the fire, and when a little cool rub the sugar against the side of the preserving-pan with the back of a spoon; as soon as it becomes white take out the rings with a fork very carefully one by one, and lay them on a wire grate to drain; boil and proceed with faggots in a similar manner, when taken out cut them into proper lengths with a pair of scissors, and lay them also on the wire to drain. 1357- CITRON, WHITE, PRESERVED. Lay some white citron cut into pieces in salt and water for four or five hours, then having washed them in cold water boil them; when tender drain and lay them into as much clarified sugar as will cover them; then next day drain off the syrup and boil it. When quite smooth and cold pour it on the citron, let them stand twenty-four hours, then boil the syrup and put in the citrons; the third day boil both together, and put them into moulds to candy. 1358. CITRON, PRESERVED LIQUID. Cut a slit in the sides of some small citrons so that the inside may take the sugar as well as the outside, and put them over the fire in some water; whenever they are near boiling put cold water to them, as soon as the citrons rise to the top take them out, and throw them into cold water, they must then be put on the fire again in the same water, and boiled gently until tender, then take them and put them into cold water. After this boil them seven or eight times in clarified sugar; pour the whole into an earthen pan, and let it stand; the next day drain the fruit, and boil up the syrup twenty or thirty times; add a little more sugar and pour it over the citrons, do this for three suc- cessive days, increasing the degree to which you boil the sugar daily, so that, at the List boiling, the degree may be au perle, the fruits may then be put into pots. 1359. DAMSONS, DRIED. Take damsons that you have preserved, drain all the syrup from them, cover the bottoms of sieves with them, and put them into stoves which should be hot, change the sieves every day till they are dry, and as you change the sieves turn the damsons, and when they CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. 337 are not sticky nor likely to give; take them out, paper a box and put them in and lay a paper between each layer of damsons. 1360. DAMSONS DRIED ANOTHER RECEIPT. Make a thin syrup, let it boil and skim it, then stone your damsons and put them into the syrup; boil them up once, then leave them in the syrup. Make another syrup with some refined sugar, with just sufficient water to damp it, boil this syrup till it is candied, then take the damsons out of the first syrup and put them into the syrup you have just made; let them simmer init a little over the fire, and leave them in afterwards till the following day; then place them one by one on a sieve, and dry them on a stove or in nearly a cold oven, turning them twice a day. When they are dry place them by layers into boxes with paper between each layer; keep them in a dry cool place. 1361.—DAMSONS—TO KEEP. Put them in small stone jars or wide-mouthed bottles; set them up to their necks in a boiler of cold water, and lighting a fire under, scald them; next day, whenthey are quite cold, fill up with spring water, and cover them closely. 1362. DAMSONS, TO PRESERVE. Put a quart of damsons to half a pound of loaf sugar powdered fine into a deep pot with layers of damsons, then strew in a handful of sugar till you have put in what quantity you like; tie them close down, set them in an oven or in a pot of water over the fire, let them infuse till they are melted; let them stand till cold, then strain the juice from them, boil it up well, and strain till clear; put it to your damsons, let them stand till cold, put a brandy paper over them and cover them with a wet bladder. 1363.—FIGS GREEN, TO PRESERVE. Slit some small green figs on the top, and put them into water for ten days, and proceed thus:—Put as much salt into the water a6 will make it bear an egg, then let it settle, take off the scum and put the clear brine to the figs, keep them for ten days; then put them into fresh water shifting them every day for four days; again drain, then put them into clarified sugar, warm them a little and let them stand till the next day; warm them again, and when they are become green give them a good boil, then boil some sugar to blow, put it to them and give them another boil, and next day drain and dry them. 1364. FIGS RIPE, TO PRESERVE. Take the white figs when ripe, slit them in the tops, put them into clarified sugar, and give them a good boil, skim them, and leave them to stand till the next day; then boil some more sugar au souffle,put it to the figs and give them another boil, the next day drain and dry them. Z 338 CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. 1365.—FRUITS, TO PRESERVE FOR PARTSOR FAMILY DESSERTS. Cherries, and plums of all sorts, and American apples, gather when ripe, and lay them in small jars that will hold a pound, strew over each jar six ounces of good loaf sugar pounded, cover with two bladders each separately tied down, then put the jars up to the neck in a large stewpan of water, and let it boil gently for three hours; All sorts of fruit should be kept free from damp. 136(1. FRUIT, TO PRESERVE GREEN. Take pippins, apricots, pears, plums, or peaches while they are green; put them in a preserving-pan, cover them with vine leaves and then with fine clear spring water, put on the cover of the pan; set them over a very clear fire, when they begin to simmer take them off the fire, and carefully with the slice take them out, peel and preserve them as other fruit. 1367- FRUITS, GREEN, FOR PRESERVING OR riCKLING. Take of green almonds, apricots, plums, pears, pippins, peaches, or any green fruit intended to be preserved, the quantity required; put them into a preserving pan (well tinned) in alternate layers of vine leaves and fruit, beginning with the vine leaves and ending with them. Cover them with spring water, and close down the lid so as to shut out all air. Place it to simmer by the side of the fire: as soon as it simmers strain off the water and take away the vine leaves. Should not the fruit be sufficiently green, the same process with fresh vine leaves must be repeated. A slice should be used to take them out of the pan with, and they must be then peeled. For the mode of completing the preserving of each fruit named, refer to the receipt under its own heading. liadish pods, French beans, cucumbers, &C., are to be treated in this manner, for preserving and for pickling. 1368.—GINGER, PRESERVED. Take some green ginger, and with a sharp knife pare it neatly, and as it is pared throw into a pan of cold water to keep it white; when you have a sufficient quantity boil it till tender, changing the water three times each time; put it into cold water to take out the heat or spirit of the ginger, when tender throw it into cold water. For seven pounds of ginger clarify eight pounds of refined sugar; when cold drain the ginger and put it into an earthen pan, with a sufficient quantity of the sugar cold to cover it, and let it stand for a couple of days; then pour the syrup from the ginger to the remainder of the sugar, boil it for some time, and when cold pour it on the ginger again, and set by for three days at least. Then take the syrup from the ginger, boil it, and then put it hot over the ginger, proceed in this manner until you find the sugar has entered the ginger; boiling the syrup and skimming off the scum that rises each time until the syrup becomes rich as well as the ginger; if the syrup is put on hot at first, or if too rich the ginger will shrink and not take the 340 CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. 1373. GOOSEBERRIES, TO KEEP. When the weather is dry pick the gooseberries that are full grown and not ripe; pick off the tops and tails and put them into open- mouthed bottles; gently cork them with quite new corks, put them in the Oren after the bread is drawn, and let them stand until shrunk a "quarter part; then take them out of the oven and immediately beat the corks in tight, cut off the tops, and rosin them tightly down, set them in a dry place, and if they are well secured from the air they will keep the year round. 1374. GOOSEBERRY JAM. Take what quantity you please of red rough, ripe gooseberries, take half their quantity of lump sugar, break them well and boil them together for half an hour or more if necessary, put into pots and cover with paper. 1375. GOOSEBERRIES, RIPE, COMPOTE OF. Prepare some sugar to the degree of petite plume; put the goose- berries in it to boil a moment, and if for present use, let them cool before you skim them; if for keeping, refine the sugar yet more by boiling. 137fi- GOOSEBERRIES AS JAM. Get green or white gooseberries when nearly ripe, top and tail them all, and to every pound add three quarters of a pound of sugar, and half a pint of water to every three quarters of a pound of sugar; boil and clarify the sugar for a quarter of an hour, then add the fruit; boil gently until clear, then with a wooden spoon mash up the fruit, and boil it for about ten minutes; then fill in the jars. 1377- GRAPES, GREEN, TO PRESERVE. Take the largest and best grapes before they are ripe; stone and scald them, let them lie two days in the water they were scalded in, then drain them and put them into a thin syrup, heat them over a slow fire; the next day turn the grapes into a pan and heat them, then drain them, put them into clarified sugar, give them a good boil and skim them, and set them by. The next day boil more sugar to touffle, put it to the grapes, give them all a good boil, skim them, and set them in a warm stove all night; the day after drain the grapes and lay them out to dry, first dusting them very well. 1378.—GRAFES PRESERVED IN CLUSTERS. Take the large Gascoigne grapes before they are too ripe and pick every one; to every pound of grapes put a pound and a quarter of sugar, make a syrup of the verjuice strained; when the sugar is quite clear put the grapes, after they are strained, into the syrup into a deep jar, cover them close and set them in a pot of scalding water over the fire to boil; as soon as the grapes are tender take them up CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. 341 and boil the syrup a little more; when they are half cold put them into broad glasses or straight jars, lay one cluster over the other, cover them with brandy papers and tie them up. 1379- GREENGAGES. "Weigh a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit; the largest when they begin to get soft are the best; split them and take out the kernels and stew them in part of the sugar, take out the kernels from the shells and blanch them; the next day strain off the syrup and boil it with the remaining sugar about ten minutes; skim it and add the fruit and kernels, skim it until clear, put it into small pots with syrup and kernels. 1380. GREENGAGES IN BRANDY. Take some preserved greengages, and drain all the syrup from them; put them into a jar, and to every pint of brandy add two ounces and a half of sugar; when the sugar is melted pour it over the green-gages; then cover them very close with bladder and leather, and keep the jar filled with brandy. 1381.—GREENGAGES, TO CANDY. When finished in the syrup (see "Green-gages, to preserve") put a layer into a new sieve, and dip it suddenly into hot water to take off the syrup that hangs about it; then put it on a napkin before the fire to drain, and then do some more on the sieve. Have ready some sifted double-refined sugar, sift this over every part of the fruit till it is perfectly white, set it on the shallow end of the sieve, in a slightly hot oven, and turn it two or three times; it must not be cold till dry, watch it carefully. 1382. GREENGAGES, COMPOTE OF. Pick the green-gages with a pin, and set them on the fire in a pan of cold water till they are slightly soft; take them off and let them cool in the same water; now take the highest degree of clarified sugar, put your green-gages into it, and set them on a very slow fire to make them exude their water and turn green; during this last operation, cover your pan with a tin plate to prevent the escape of steam; after which take them out and dress them in four dishes. 1383.—GREEN-GAGES, DRIED. Take preserved green-gages, put them over the fire to warm, drain all the syrup from them, put them on sieves and into the stove, change them every day, and turn them or they will stick; let them remain in the stove for three days, then put them into papered boxes with a sheet of paper between each layer of fruit. 1384. GREENGAGE JAM. Take some ripe green-gages, rub them through a large hair sieve, put them into a preserving-pan, add a pound of sifted sugar to each 342 CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. pound of pulp; then boil it to a proper thickness, skim it clean, and put it into small pots. 1385. LEMON, GREEN, PRESERVED. Split some small green lemons on one side, that they may take the sugar inside as well as outside; put them into cold water, and set them on the fire, and keep them from boiling by pouring cold water on them frequently; as soon, however, as they rise above it, take them from the fire and throw them into cold water; after they have lain a little time in it put them on the fire and boil slowly till the fruit is quite tender, when they must again be put into cold water; clarify some sugar, put the lemons to it, and having let it boil up seven or eight times, put the whole into a pan till the next day; then drain off the syrup, boil it up twenty or thirty times, having added a little fresh sugar, pour it over your lemons, and repeat this three succes- sive days increasing the boiling point of the sugar each day, so that on the last it will be perle, when the fruit must be boiled with it once, and then it may be put into pots. 1386. LEMONS PICKLED. Take twelve lemons and rub them well with a piece of flannel; then rub them over with bay salt, and lay them on an earthen pan, turning them every day for three days; then slice an ounce of ginger, and salt it well, and let it lie in salt for three days; parboil twelve cloves of garlic, well salted for three days, a small handful of mustard seed bruised, some cayenne pepper and one clove of garlic should be put to each lemon; take your lemons out of the salt, squeeze them, put them into a jar with the spice, and cover them with the best white wine vinegar, stop them up close, and in a month's time they will be fit for use. 1387. LEMON JUICE, TO KEEP. Keep the lemons for two or three days in a cool place; if too unripe to squeeze cut the peel of some, and roll them under your hand, they will then part with their juice more readily, others you may leave unpared for grating; when the pulp has been taken out and they have been dried, squeeze the juice into a china basin, then strain it through some muslin, take care that none of the pulp passes through; have'ready some ounce and a half phials, be careful that they are dry and fill them with lemon juice, only fill them to the top so that they will admit a tea-spoonful of sweet oil into each; cork the bottles and set them up in a cool place. If you make the larger phials you must put in rather more than a tea-spoonful of oil; when you want your lemon juice open a bottle that you will use in a day or two; wind some clean cotton round a skewer and dip it in, the oil will be attracted, and when all is removed the juice will be as good as when it was first made; hang the peel up to dry in a place free from dust. CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. 343 1388. LEMONS, TO KEEP FORPUDDINGS. When you squeeze the fruit throw the outsides into water without the pulp, let them remain in the same a fortnight adding no more; boil them in the same till tender, strain it from them and when they are nearly dry throw them into a jar of candy you may have remaining from old sweetmeats, or if you have none boil some syrup of common loaf sugar and water and pour over them; in B week or ten days boil them gently in them till they look clear, and that they may be covered within the jar, you may cut each half of the fruit in two and they will occupy a smaller space. 1389. MAGNUM BO.NUM PLUMS. Pick each plum with your larding pin; simmer them in a thin syrup very gently for a few minutes, then put them away into a basin, and when your syrup is cold pour it upon the plums; let them remain so for about three days, then make a syrup of three pounds of sugar to every five pound of fruit; add the sugar to the former syrup taking out the plums first; when the syrup boils place your plums into it, keep boiling them until the plums are a clear yellow and the syrup adheres to them; put them separately into small pots, cover them with syrup. If you wish to dry any boil some syrup a little longer and quick, and then give that fruit another boil; take them upon a drying sieve to drain, these plums will ferment if not boiled in two syrups. 1390. NECTARINES TO PRESERVE. Split the nectarines and take out the stones, then put them into clarified sugar; boil them till they have thoroughly taken the sugar; take off all the scum, cover them with a paper and set them by, the following day boil a little more sugar to a strong soiiffte, put it to the nectarines and give them a good boil, take off the scum, cover them, and put them into a stove; the next day drain them and lay them out to dry, having previously dusted them a little with sugar, then put them in the stove again. 1391. NECTARINES, TO KEEP. This fruit is bottled in a similar way to apricots, the nectarines should be gathered perfectly ripe, and the skin taken off with great 1392.—ORANGES, TO PRESERVE. Rasp or cut the oranges in scallops with a penknife and throw them into water; change it once a day for three days, then boil them till tender enough to run a wheat straw through, then put them into cold water till the next day; pulp and wipe them very dry, have the syrup ready, boil them two or three times till very clear, observe to put the syrup to them; when cold make it the same as for cucum- bers. CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FBIT1TS, ETC. 345 rate oven till tender, then put them on a slow fire to stew gently; add grated lemon peel, and more sugar if necessary; they will be sufficiently red. 1398 PEARS, TO KEEP. Choose the soundest pears, peel and cut them into quarters, take out the pips, and put the pieces into bottles, which place in the bain mane. If the pears are intended for dessert, one boiling is suffi- cient, but if for cooking they must boil five or six times; should the fruit thus bottled have fallen from the tree, instead of being athered, they will require a quarter of an hour boiling. 1399. PEARS, JARGONELLE. Pare them very thin and smooth, boil them gently in a thin syrup; let them lie a day or two in this syrup, add more sugar to the syrup, and boil the pears again; put them by again, and keep daily repeating it until they are clear; then dry them on a hair sieve in the sun or the hot closet; keep what is not wanted for drying in syrup. Boil in some of the same syrup, thinly pared in lengths some orange peels and lemon peels, add all the syrups together, put this peel for a garnish when dished. 1400. PLUMS, CANDIED. Choose your fruit of a nice shape, and good size, cut them in halves, lay them on a large shallow dish, strew powdered sugar over them, and put them in a moderate oven tightly closed; in half an hour's time take them out, and place the plums one by one on glass plates to dry. 1401. PLUMS, PRESERVED DRY. Gather the plums when full grown and just turning colour; prick and put them into a saucepan of cold water, set them on the fire until the water is on the point of boiling; then take them out, drain and boil them well in some clarified sugar, let them settle and then boil again; if they shrink and will not take the sugar prick them as they lie in the pan and then give them another boil, skim,and set them by; the next day add some more sugar, boiled to toufflk to the fruit, any syrup; then put them together, place them in a stove till next day, then drain the plums from the syrup, sprinkle a little powdered sugar over, and dry them in a stove. 1402.—QUINCES. Cut in thick slices, not pared, some golden pippin apples, boil them in about two quarts of water very fast, until the water becomes a thick jelly; have ready scalded the quinces you wish to do, and to every pint of the pippin jelly add one pound of lump sugar;as it boilskeep it well skimmed; put in your quinces if whole ones, they will take longer boiling, you can cut them in half if preferred, but 346 CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. they must not be done together, when you think they are done put some syrup into a glass to cool. Use a pound of sugar to a pound of quinces, and a pound of the jelly to each pound of quinces. 1403 QUINCES, PRESERVED. Choose the quinces very ripe, yellow, and quite sound; pare, quarter, and core them, put them into a little water and scald them, as soon as they are soft throw into cold water, and put them to drain; clarify, and boil to lisse an equal weight of sugar, put in the fruit, cover, and leave them to simmer, for another quarter of an hour, then take them from the fire, skim and pour the preserve into a pan. In two days drain off the syrup, boil it to perle, add the fruit, give the whole one boil covered, let it cool a little and then simmer for a quarter of an hour, after which leave it till next day, when proceed as above, but boil the syrup to grand perle. As soon as the preserve is cooled put it into pots, adding to each a little quince jelly. A little prepared cochineal added to the above will give the preserve a fine red colour, in which case the jelly ought to be red 1404.—QUINCES, TO KEEP. Gather the fruit quite ripe but perfectly sound, rub each carefully with a clean cloth to remove the down, then quarter and put them into bottles corked tight, give them half an hour's boil in the bain marie. 1405. RASPBERRIES, TO KEEP. This fruit may be bottled for keeping like cherries, they must not be more than just ripe. 1406.—RASPBERRIES, PRESERVED. Take five or six pounds of red but not too ripe raspberries; pick and put them into a preserving-pan with an equal weight of clarified sugar, boiled to petit bouUt; when they have boiled up about a dozen times, skim and pour the whole into two pan till the next day, then drain the fruit and put it into jars; put to the syrup about two glasses of cherry-juice previously strained, boil the sugar to souffle and then pour it over the raspberries, add afterwards about a spoon- ful of currant-juice to each pot, and when cold lay on brandy paper, and tie them down. 1407-—-RASPBERRY/ JAM. To every pound of fruit use a pound of sugar, but always boil the fruit well before you add the sugar to it, it will be a better colour; put your fruit in your preserving-pan, mashing them with a long wooden spoon, after boiling them a few minutes add the same quan- tity of sugar as fruit, boiling it for half an hour, keeping it .well stirred. When sufficiently reduced fill your jars. CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. 347 1408. RHUBARB PRESERVE. Rhubarb preserve, if made according to the following directions, is almost equal to the celebrated Scotch marmalade. Procure six oranges, peel them and take away the white rind and the kernels, then slice the pulp into the stewpan along with the peel cut very small, add thereto a quart of rhubarb cut fine, and from one pound to one pound and a half of loaf sugar; boil the whole down as for other preserves. 1409. SAMPHIRE, TO DRY OR PRESERVE. Take it in bunches as it grows, set a large deep stewpan full of water on the fire; as soon as it boils throw in a little salt, and put in the samphire, when it looks of a fine green remove the pan directly from the file and take out the samphire with a fork, lay it on sieves to drain; when cold lay it on earthern plates, strew sugar well over it; next day turn them on a sieve and strew it again with sugar, keep turning daily until it is dry, take care the stove is not too hot. 1410. SIBERIAN CRABS, TO PRESERVE. Take their weight in sugar, make a syrup with apple jelly; when well boiled prick the crabs and put into it, let them boil a few minutes, then take them out and put them on a sieve to drain, when cold put them again into the syrup, boil it a few minutes more and drain them as before ; do this a third time, observing the same rule as at first; then put them into glasses or jars, and pour the jelly boiling over them. 1411. STRAWBERRY JAM. Take some scarlet strawberries quite ripe, bruise them well^and add the juice of other strawberries; take an equal weight of lump sugar, pound and sift it, stir it thoroughly into the fruit and boil it twenty minutes over a slow fire, taking off the scum as it rises; pour it into glasses or jars and when cold tie them down. 1412. STRAWBEHRIES, PARISIAN SOUFFLE. Take the finest strawberries you can procure, pick, crush, and rub them through a sieve. Whisk the whites of eighteen eggs to a fine froth, add to it a pound and a half of powdered sugar; stir them together as lightly as possible; mix them with the strawberries. Pour the whole into a croustade, and bake it for an hour in a moderate oven; when done, glaze it and serve. 1413.—STRAWBERRIES PRESERVED INWINE. Put some very large strawberries into a gooseberry bottle, and strew in three spoonfuls of fine sugar; fill up with Madeira or good sherry. PICKLES. 349 CHAPTER XX. PICKLES. RULESto be observed in pickling. Procure always the best white wine vinegar. This can only be obtained by dealing with a respectable tradesman upon whom you can depend. Vinegar is so grossly adulterated that it is really a difficulty to obtain it pure. Orleans vinegar, although the dearest is the best. The success of your pickle depends on the goodness of your vinegar. Use glass bottles for your pickles; if earthern jars, they must be unglazed, as the vinegar acting upon the glaze produces a mineral poison. Use saucepans lined with earthenware or stone pipkins to boil your vinegar in. If you are compelled to use tin, do not let your vinegar remain in it one moment longer than actually necessary; employ also wooden knives and forks in the preparation of your pickles. Fill your jars three parts full with the articles to be pickled, and then add vinegar up to the neck of the jar or bottle. When greening, keep the pickles covered down, or the evaporation of the steam will injure the colour; a little nut of alum may be added to crisp the pickles, but it should be very small in proportion to the quantity, or it will give a disagreeable flavour. 1416. ALMOND, GREEN, TICKLE. Boil vinegar according to the quantity of pickle you want; scum it and put in salt, mace, ginger, Jamaica, and white pepper, put it into a jar and let it stand till cold, then add the almonds cut in half, letting the liquor cover them. 1417. APFLE CODLINGS, TO PICKLE. Gather the codlings when of the size of a large double walnut; take a pan and make a thick layer of vine leaves at the bottom; put in the codlings and cover them well with vine leaves and spring water, and put them over a slow fire till they are sufficiently tender to pare the skins with ease with a small sharp knife, put them into the same water with vine leaves as before; cover them close, and set the pan at a short distance from the fire until they are of a fine 352 PICKLES. sprinkle salt over them; next day drain them for some hours, then put them into a stone jar, pour boiling vinegar over them, keep them by side of the fire, repeat the boiling vinegar, keep in the steam, and so on until green; the last time put in your ginger and pepper ; put it in small stone jars. 1429. ELDER BUDS PICKLED. The elder buds should be gathered when they are about the size of hop tops; put them into a strong brine of salt and water for nine days, and stir them two or three times a day; put them into a pan, cover them with vine leaves, and pour over the water they came out of. Set them over a slow fire till they become quite green, and then make a pickle of them of allegar, made of sour ale, a little mace, a few shalots, and some ginger sliced, boil this two or three minutes and pour it upon the buds, then tie them down and keep them in a very dry place. 1430.—GHERKINS PICKLED. Choose your gherkins very green and straight; brush and place a layer in a pan, sprinkle them with fine salt, then another layer of gherkins, which sprinkle with salt also, and continue this operation until you have used nearly a bushel of gherkins; leave them in the salt for twenty-four hours, which will draw all the water from them; at the end of that time drain and place them in a jar, with a handful of allspice, the same of tarragon, a little balm, ten shalots, six cloves of garlic, two or three long peppers, twenty cloves, a lemon cut in quarters, and two small handfuls of salt. Boil two gallons of the best vinegar a second time, and pour it on again the following day, boil the vinegar for the third time, pour it over the gherkins, and when quite cold cover the jar with a wet parchment. 1431. GRAPES PICKLED. The grapes must be at their full growth, but not ripe; cut them in bunches, put them in a jar with vine leaves between each layer of grapes until the jar is filled; then take as much spring water as will cover the grapes and the leaves. As it heats put in as much salt as will make a brine sufficiently strong to bear an egg, you may use half bay salt and half common salt; when it boils, skim it, strain it through a flannel bag and let it .stand to settle, by the time it is cold it will be quite settled; strain it a second time through a flannel bag, then pour it into a jar upon the grapes, which must be well covered; fill the jar with vine leaves, then tie it over with a double cloth and set a plate upon it; let it stand for two days, then take off the cloth, pour away the brine, then take out the leaves and the grapes and lay them between two cloths to dry, then take two quarts of vinegar, one quart of spring water and one pound of coarse sugar, boil it for a short time and skim it very clean as it boils; let it stand till it is quite cold. Wipe the jar very clean and dry, lay some fresh vine leaves at the bottom PICKLES. 353 between every bunch of grapes and on the top; then pour and strain the pickle on the grapes, fill the jar, let the pickle be above the grapes, tie up a thin piece of board in a flannel, lay it on the grapes to keep them under the pickle, tie them down with a bladder, and over that a leather, always keeping the grapes under the pickle. 1432. HEBBINOS, TO PICKLE. Let the fish be well cleaned and gutted but not opened; take salt, pepper, mace, nutmeg, pound and mix these spices well, then rub a pan with an onion, strew some of the spices over the bottom, and put as many fish as will lie flat on the bottom, then put a layer of sliced onions, and then fish, and so on alternately till the pan be filled; strew the pounded spice between each layer, pour over the best vinegar so as to cover the whole, tie a brown paper over the pan, and bake till the bones are soft. Sprats and mackerel are likewise done in this way. The heads and tails must be cut off. 1433.—INDIA PICKLE. Take one pound of ginger, put it into a pan with salt and water, and let it lie all night, then scrape it and cut it into thin slices, put it into a pan with half a pound of bay salt, and let it lie till all the following ingredients are prepared; a pound of garlic peeled, and laid in salt for three days, then take it out, wash it, and let it lie in salt for other three days, then take it out and let it lay in the sun for another day till half dry; an ounce of long pepper, an ounce of capsicum salted, and laid in the sun for three days, and a pint of black mustard-seed bruised, half an ounce of turmeric beat very small. Put all these ingredients together in a jar, then put in as much vinegar as when the cabbage or what you intend to pickle is put into it, the vinegar will rise to the top of the jar. Then take cabbage, cauliflowers, or whatever you choose to pickle, and cut them into small pieces, throw a good handful of salt over them, and set them in the sun when it is very hot for three days; drain the water from them every day and fresh salt them again, turning the leaves till they are dry, then put them into the pickle, being par- ticular that they are completely covered with the vinegar; tie it up close, let it stand a fortnight, fill it again with more vinegar, carefully watch it from time to time to fill it up with vinegar, as it will waste very fast. 1434.—MUSHROOMS. Use the close button mushrooms, rub them with a bit of flannel or tammy cloth, throw a little salt over them, and put them into a stewpan with a little lemon or vinegar, and a blade of mace, and a few cloves, and whole white pepper, keeping them well shaken; then keeping it on the fire until all the liquor is absorbed into the mushrooms again, then put as much white vinegar in your stewpan, A A PICKLES. 355 water, and pour it over them, let them stand in this twenty-four hours; keep the vessel closely covered to retain the steam, after that time wipe the onions quite dry, and when they are cold, pour boil- ing vinegar, with ginger, and white pepper over them; take care the vinegar always covers the onions. 1441. ONIONS, PICKLED. Get the small button onions, which are ready about September; blanch them and peel them, fill a tin stewpan, and cover them with water, and in a few minutes scald them, take them out and lay them in a cloth and cover them, let them get cold, put them in glasses or bottles; boil some very good white vinegar, let it stand off the fire a few minutes, then pour it upon the onions, and when quite cold cover them, then, should the outer skin shrivel, take it off, as they should appear quite clear. 1442.—PLUMS, TO PICKLE LIKE OLIVES. Take the plums before they are quite ripe, and put them into a saucepan with some white wine vinegar, salt water, fennel seed, and dill, as much of each as will impart a flavour to the pickle; when it boils put in the plums, let it boil again, then take it off, let it stand till cold, then put them into jars. 1443. QUINCE, TO PICKLE. Pare and cut half a dozen quinces into small pieces, and put them with a gallon of water and two pounds of honey into a large saucepan, mix them together well, and set them on a slow fire for half an hour, strain the liquor into a jar, when quite cold wipe the quinces perfectly dry, and put them into it, cover them very close. 1444.—SAMPHIBE, TO PICKLE. Lay some samphire that is green in a pan, sprinkle over it some salt and cover it with spring water, and let it lie for twenty-four hours; then put it into a large brass saucepan, throw in a handful of salt, cover the pan close, and set it over a very slow fire; let it stand till it is quite green and crisp, then take it off, for if it becomes soft, it is spoiled, put it into a jar, cover it close, and when it is cold tie it down. 1445. TOMATO KETCHUP. Take tomatoes when full ripe, bake them in a jar till tender, strain them, and rub them through a sieve. To every pound of juice, add a pint of Chili vinegar, an ounce of shallots, half an ounce of garlic, both sliced, a quarter of an ounce of salt, and a quarter of an ounce of white pepper finely powdered; boil the whole till every ingredient is soft, rub it again through the sieve; to every pound add the juice of three lemons; boil it again to the consist- A A 2 356 PICKLES. ence of cream; when cold bottle it, put a small quantity of sweet oil on each, tie bladders over, and keep it in a dry place. 1446. TONGUE, TO PICKLE.Take a fine neat's tongue and put it into the following pickle,— four gallons of water, four pounds of common salt, the same of bay salt, a quarter of a pound of saltpetre, two ounces of salt-prunella, one ounce of alum, and a pound of coarse sugar; boil them toge- ther, skimming it well, lay in the tongue, let it remain ten days, turning it two or three times in that period. Dry the tongue by a wood fire. 1447. TONGUES, PICKLE FOB. Half a pound of saltpetre, a quarter of a pound of bay salt, the same of moist sugar, three pounds of common salt, and two gallons of soft water, boil the whole together, and skim it well; when cold pour it over the tongue; this pickle will not want boiling again for six weeks. 1448. WALNUT KETCHUP. Boil gently a gallon of the expressed juice of young green wallnuts, skim it well, then put into it a pound of anchovies, bones, and liquor, one ounce of cloves, two or three dozen of shalots, one ounce of mace, one ounce of pepper, one ounce of garlic, let it all boil until the shalots sink; then place the liquor into a pan until cold, then bottle it, dividing the spice equally in each bottle; cork it close, and bladder over the corks. This is not fit for use in less than a twelvemonth. 1449. WALNUTS, PICKLED. When they will bear a pin to go into them, prick them all over; put a brine of salt and water on to boil, strong enough for an egg to swim on the top when quite cold; when it is boiling skim it, pour it over the walnuts, let them lie a week, then change the brine, let them stand several more days, then strain them off, have ready boiled some strong white vinegar, with spice boiled in it, and plenty of pepper and mustard seeds, and horseradish, all well boiled together; put to get cold, a few shallots and plenty of mus- tard seeds, then put them into jars or bottles. They will be sereral months before fit to use; keep them covered. 1450. WALNUTS PICKLED. Put a hundred of large double walnuts into a stone jar, take four ounces of black pepper, one ounce of Jamaica pepper, two ounces of ginger, one ounce of cloves, a pint of mustard seed, and boil them in as much vinegar as is sufficient to cover the walnuts; when cold pour it over the walnuts, in two days boil the pickle again, 358 CAKES, BUNS, BISCUITS, BREAD, ETC. CHAPTER XXI. CAKES, BUNS, BICTJITS, BREAD, ETC. REQUISITE INFORMATION FOR MAKINGAND li.VKl.VG CAKES. Currants are so frequently used in cakes that you should be very particular in having them nicely washed, dried, and all sticks and stones taken from them, and then put before the fire to dry, as, if damp, they will make cakes and puddings heavy; therefore, before you use them dust a little flour lightly over them. Eggs should be always a long time beaten, the whites and yolks separate, taking out the tread. Sugar should be well pounded and sifted through a drum or lawn sieve, and kept well dried. Lemon peel should be either rubbed on sugar or grated fine, if so, sprinkle some sifted sugar amongst it to keep it a good colour. The lightness of all cakes depends upon the whipping of them, and at last being well incorporated. If you use yeast to your cakes they will require less butter and eggs, and will eat almost equally as light and rich; but if the leaven be only of milk, flour, and water, it becomes more tough than if the butter was at first put with the ingredients, and the dough set to rise by the fire. The heat of your oven is of particular importance for baking cakes or pastry—more particularly large cakes—as at first, if not pretty brisk, they will not rise; then, if likely to brown too quick at the top, put a piece of paper upon the top of the cake so not to touch the batter. It should be lighted some time before hand, so as to have a good solid body of heat. To know when your cake is done you will see in another place in the book. If the oven is not hot enough, add more fire into it. Bread and tea-cakes made with milk eat best when new, as they become stale sooner than others. Never keep your bread or cakes in wooden boxes or drawers, but in tin boxes or earthen pans, with covers. 1453. —CRUST, SHORT AND RICH, BUT NOT SWEET.' To eight ounces of fine flour rub in well six ounces of butter, make it into a stiffish paste with a little water; beat it well, roll it thin, and bake it in a moderate oven. 360 CAKES, BUNS, BISCUITS, BREAD, ETC. 1459.—BABA ANOTHER RECEIPT. Take the fourth part of two pounds of flour, lay it on a paste- board or slab and make a hole in the middle and put in the yeast, work it up with one hand, while with the other you pour in warm water; make it into a soft paste and put it into a wooden bowl, first prick it in a few places and cover it and let it stand. When it has risen well take the remainder of the flour and spread it on the first made paste; mix them well together, adding to them half an ounce of salt, six eggs, a pound of fresh butter, half a pound of stoned raisins, two ounces of currants, half a glass of Malaga wine, a little saffron in powder. Work them up together well, roll it out three or four times and let it stand for six hours, then butter a mould, pour in your mixture and bake it. 1460. BRIDE CAKE. To four pounds of the best wheaten flour add four pounds of the best fresh butter, two pounds of the best white sugar, pounded and sifted fine, a quarter of an ounce of mace, and the same quantity of nutmegs; to every pound of flour put eight eggs; wash and thoroughly pick four pounds of currants, dry them well, Blanch a pound of sweet almonds and cut them lengthways very thin, a pound of citron, a pound of candied orange, the same quantity of candied lemon, and half a pint of brandy. Having thus prepared your ingredients work the butter to a cream with your hands, beat in the sugar for ten minutes, then beat your whites of eggs to a very strong froth; mix them with your sugar and butter, beat the yolks well for about twenty minutes, not a minute less, and mix them with your cake. Now put in your flour, mace, and nutmeg, keep beating it until your oven is quite ready to receive it, pour in your brandy, whip the currants and almonds lightly in, tie round the bottom of your hoop three sheets of paper, to keep it from running out, rub it well with butter, put in your cake and the sweetmeats in three layers, with cake between every layer; after it is risen and coloured cover it with paper, before your oven is closed; it will take three hours baking. 1461. BRIDE CAKE ANOTHER WAY. One pound and a half of fine sugar, three pounds and a half of currants, one pound of butter, two pounds of flour, half a pound of peels, half a pound of cut almonds, three ounces of spices, the grating of three lemons, eighteen eggs, two gills of rum; paper your hoop which for this mixture you will require to be large; bake in a moderate oven, it will take some hours, when cold ice it. See " Icing for Cake's" 1462. BREAKFASTOR TEA CAKES, HOT. Put about six handfuls of flower in a basin, about half-a-pint of new milk, a small piece of butter; warm the milk, and mind hotter in winter than in summer; mix in a cup two ounces of German yeast with a little cold water, mix the yeast with the milk and CAKES, BUNS, BISCUITS, BREAD, ETC. 361 butter, make a hole in the flour, pour the mixed milk and yeast into it, stirring it round until it is a thick batter; beat up one egg and mix into it, cover it over and keep it warm in your screen; when it has risen a little mix it into a dough, knead it well, put it again in the screen, and when it has risen a good deal, take and form your rolls. They will take nearly half an hour or according to the size you make the cakes, rub them over while hot with your paste brush dipped in milk. 1463. BORDEAUX CAKE. Pound cake, with alternate layers of preserves, with jam on the top. 1464. DIET BREAD CAKE. Three quarters of a pound of sugar, three quarters of a pound of flour, and eight eggs; put your sugar and eggs together into a basin or pan, with half a pint of lukewarm water; beat them all well up with a whisk the same as for sponge cakes, over a slow fire until quite warm, take them from the fire and whip them until cold, add the grating of one lemon, then mix in the flour lightly, adding some carraway seeds if they are liked; do not fill your moulds, they should be square paper cases buttered. '• 146:1. BUTTER CAKES. Form with your hands a dish of butter into a cream, add two pounds of sifted sugar, three pounds of dried flour, and two dozen eggs, leaving out half the whites, then beat altogether for an hour. Previous to baking it, you may add some seeds and currants, an ounce of mace, a nutmeg, and a little brandy. 14(36. BISCUITS OP ANY KIND OF FRUIT. To the pulp of any scalded fruit put the same weight of sugar, beat them both well together for two hours, then make them into forms, or put them in paper cases, and dry them in a cool oven, turn them the next day, and let them remain until quite dry, then put them in boxes. 1467-— BISCUITS, DEVILLED. Dip one into boiling water, butter it well, spread it over with ready made mustard, cayenne pepper, a good deal of black pepper, and salt; rub them well into the biscuit, put it in the oven, or on the gridiron to brown. CAKES, BUNS, BISCUITS, BREAD, ETC. 363 1475. CHEESECAKES A LA DUC DE GUISE. Make a paste of a quart of the best flour, rub into it a pound of butter, a quarter of a pound of sugar from which all lumps have been removed, add two tea-spoonfuls of orange flower water; work this into a fine even paste, lay it in patty pans. For the curd take the yolk of twelve eggs, beat in a pint of very thick cream, when the cream boils up put in the eggs, take it off, put it in a cloth over a cullender; whey some new milk with rennet for the other curd; when you temper them together take a pound of currants, three quarters of a pound of butter, half a pound of sugar, a quarter of an ounce of grated nutmeg, four spoonfuls of rose water, and then bake quickly. 1476. CHEESECAKES, APPLE. Take twelve apples, pare, core, and boil in sufficient water to wash them; beat them very smooth, add six yolks of eggs, the juice of two lemons, some grated lemon peel, half a pound of fresh butter beaten to a cream, and sweetened with powdered sugar; beat in with the apples, bake in a puff crust, and serve open. 1477- CHEESECAKES, ALMOND. Take four ounces of blanched almonds, mixed with a few bitter, beat them with a spoonful of water, add four ounces of powdered sugar, a spoonful of cream, and the whites of two eggs well beaten; mix them quickly, put into small patty pans and bake for twenty minutes in a moderately warm oven. 1478. CHEESECAKES, BREAD.1 Take a French roll, slice it very thin, pour over it some boiling cream, allow it to cool and then add six or eight eggs, half a pound of butter melted, a spoonful of brandy, half a pound of currants, some nutmeg, and a little sugar; put them in puff-paste, the same as other cheesecakes. 1479.—CHEESECAKES, CITRON. Take a pint of cream, boil it, and when cold mix it with two eggs well beaten ; then boil them together, until they become a curd. Put in a few blanched almonds beaten in a mortar with a little orange flower water, add some Naples biscuits and green citron chopped very small. Sweeten, and bake in tins. 1480. CHEESECAKES, LEMON. Take four ounces of sifted lump sugar, and the same quantity of butter; melt them slowly, add the yolks of two and the white of one egg, a Savoy biscuit, some blanched almonds, the rind of three lemons shred fine, and the juice of one lemon and a half, and three spoonfuls of brandy; mix all well together, then make a paste with 364 CAKES, BUNS,BISCUITS, BREAD, ETC. eight ounces of flour, and six ounces of butter, mixing four ounces of it with the flour first, then wet it with six spoonfuls of water, and roll in the remainder of the butter; put the ingredients to this paste and bake it. 1481.—CHEESECAKES, ORANGE. Take eight ounces of blanched almonds, beat them very fine with orange-flower water, melt a pound of butter carefully without oiling (let it be nearly cold before using it for the cheesecakes); beat and sift half a pound of sugar, beat the yolks of ten and the whites of four eggs, pound one fresh and two candied oranges (previously boiled to draw out the bitterness) in a mortar till as soft as marmalade, without any lumps; these mix altogether, and put into patty pans. 1482. CHERRY CAKES. Take a pound of tart paste, cut it in half, roll it out thin, drop on the paste preserved cherries cut into small pieces, egg them round carefully, turn the paste over them and press them together gently, then cut it into half circles with a gigging iron, prick and wash them over with egg, place them on a well-buttered tin, and bake them in a quick oven. 1483. CINNAMON CAKES. Beat up six eggs with three table-spoonfuls of rose-water; put to it a pound of sifted sugar, a dessert-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, and enough flour to form it into a paste; roll it out thin, and cut it into any shape you please, place them on paper, and bake them. Remove them from the paper when done. Keep them dry. 1484.—CURRANT CAKES. Take two quarts of currants, red or white, pick and wash them, boil them in a pint of water: then run the juice through a jelly-bag, taking care not to press the bag; boil up the juice, strewing in three pounds of sugar to a quart of juice; pour it into glasses, dry it in a stone till it will turn out, then dry the cakes on plates. 1485. CARRAWAY CAKES. Mix a pound of flour with a pound of fresh butter, add a spoonful of yeast, four spoonfuls of rose water, the yolks of three eggs, four ounces of sugar, some carraways and ambergris, make all into a paste, bake it and when done sprinkle it with powdered sugar. 1486.—CORDCAKES. Mix eight eggs (leaving out four whites) with a quart of curds, add sugar sufficient to sweeten, grated nutmeg, and a table-spoonful of flour, mix well together; heat in a frying-pan some butter, and drop in the card,frying like fritters. 366 CAKES,BUNS, BISCUITS, BREAD, ETC. 1493.—MACAROONS. To a pound of sweet almonds, blanched and nicely pounded with a little rose water to prevent their oiling, add a pound of sifted sugar, the whites of ten eggs whisked to a solid froth; beat all together for some time, place some wafer paper on tin plates, drop the mixture on it in drops the size of a shilling or smaller, sprinkle over them a little sugar, and bake them. 1494.—MACAROONS, SPICED. Take a pound of sweet almonds, and two pounds of sifted sugar; prepare the paste in the usual way, add a spoonful of powdered cinnamon, six pounded cloves, a spoonful of preserved lemon, and the same of orange peel chopped small, and the rind of two lemons grated; mix all together in a mortar, lay out the macaroons as Before directed, and bake them carefully. 1495.—POUND CAKE. Take a pound of sifted sugar, and a pound of fresh butter, mix them with the hand ten minutes and put to them nine yolks and five whites of eggs well beaten; work all together and add a pound of sifted flour, some carraway seeds, four ounces of candied orange peel cut into slices, a few currants well cleaned; mix all together very lightly. 1496. POUND CAKES, PLUM OR PLAIN. Equal quantity of sugar, butter, flour, and eggs, allowing to all cakes eight to a pound, a grating of lemon, and a few grains of grated nutmeg; have a basin made pretty warm, put in your butter, and with your hand whip up the butter until it comes to the thickness of cream, then put in your sugar, and lemon, and nutmeg, keep whipping it; have your eggs beat up, then add them by degrees to your sugar and butter, take care it does not curdle, then whip in your flour; from this mixture you can make several sorts of small cakes, with a little variation in each mixture. For queen cakes some currants, and a spoonful more flour; for champaignes a few caraway seeds, and two spoonfuls of flour; for queen's drops the same, but add currants, have different basins for each mixture; in the same way you may add whatever flavour you like, and make them what shape you like; champaignes are like a quarter of an orange, made in a long frame; queen cakes in moulds, buttered; drops, on buttered paper, the moderate oven will bake them; pound cakes in hoops, pre- pared. 1497-—A GOOD PLUM CAKE. An equal weight of butter and flour, a quarter of a pound of cut peels and citron, double the weight of butter in currants, the grating of three lemons, and half a nutmeg, half an ounce of pudding spice two glasses of rum, and the same quantity of eggs as the weight in 368 CAKES, BUNS, BISCUITS. BREAD, ETC. alone, to a strong froth, then gradually mix the whites with the other ingredients and beat them well half an hour; bake an hour in a quick oven. 1504.—SAVOY CAKE. Keep your cake moulds for the use of cakes only; clarify some butter, and when nearly cold with a stiff brush grease your mould very smooth the same way; be sure you do not omit any part. When you have with great care buttered it complete, put into the mould a handful of fine sifted sugar, shake it well about the mould, then knock all that does not stick to the mould out on paper; if it should be a mould that will not stand set it in some sand on your baking sheet, then get ready the things for your cake. For a high large Savoy cake break twelve eggs in a large basin, weigh out the weight in sifted sugar of nine eggs, and flour dried and sifted the weight of six eggs, put to the sugar the grating of three lemons, then whip with your whisk over a slow fire the twelve eggs for 'about a quarter of an hour, take it off the fire, put in your sugar and lemon peel, continue whipping it fast until cold, about a quarter of an hour longer, then gently mix in your flour; when well stirred in, three parts fill your mould; put it directly into a moderate oven, you will know when it is done by thrusting your knife or a clean skewer down the middle, and if it comes out clean it is done. If you have any left, butter some sponge biscuit moulds and fill them with it, sifting when full some sugar over the top, not too thick, tnrn them gently over and they will drop out when done. 1505. TWELFTH CAKE. In the centre of six pounds of flour make an opening; set a sponge with a gill and a half of yeast, and a.little warm milk; put round it a pound of fresh butter in small lumps, a pound and a quarter of sifted sugar, four pounds and a half of currants, half an ounce of sifted cinnamon, a quarter of an ounce of pounded cloves, mace, and nutmeg mixed, and sliced candied orange and lemon peel, and citron; when risen mix all together with a little warm milk, prepare the hoops as in a bride cake, fill and bake; when nearly cold ice them over with sugar. 1506. YORKSHIRE CAKES. Mix two pounds of flour with four ounces of butter melted in a pint of milk, three spoonfuls of yeast, and two eggs; beat all together, let it rise, knead it, make it into cakes, place them on tins, let them rise and then bake in a slow oven. 1507- TO MAKE WAFERS. Take fine flour dried and sifted, make it into a smooth thin batter with very good milk or a little cream and water, add about as much white wine as will make it thick enough for pancakes; sweeten it with a little loaf sugar. When thus prepared have the wafer irons 372 COFFEE, TEA, CHOCOLATE, AND COCOA. CHAPTER XXII. COFFEE, TEA, CHOCOLATE, AND COCOA Coffee and tea have now become such universal beverages for the morning or after dinner meal, that beyond a few general directions little remains for prefaratory matter. Coffee should be purchased in the berry, and fresh roasted, it should always, when possible, be ground just previous to being made. After it is ground it should not be exposed to the air, as the aroma speedily flies off. If more is ground than required for the meal, keep it in a glass closely-stopped bottle. Coffee, like tea, should be an infusion, not a decoction, although Monsieur Soyer recommends boiling after filtering; this may produce a powerful flavour, but the fragrance is gone, and the more acrid roughness annoying to a fine palate alone remains. The best coffee is the Mocha, the next is the Java, and closely ap- proximating is the Jamaica and Berbice. Of tea little need be said; almost every one knows the rules for making it. Boiling water should alone be used. Metal tea pots in preference to earthenware. Silver is better than either. A spoonful of tea for each person. Heat the tea-pot first with gome boiling water, then pour that into the tea-cups to warm them; put in your tea, and pour enough water on to the tea to cover it; let it stand three or four minutes, then nearly fill the tea-pot with water. Jet it stand a few minutes, and pour out, leaving some portion of tea in the pot when you replenish, that all the strength may not be poured away in the first cup. Chocolate can only be obtained pure of a first-rate house; that commonly sold is most infamously adulterated; the best Spanish or Italian chocolate should be purchased; the Florence has a high reputation. Cocoa is the foundation of chocolate, it may be pounded, and either boiled as milk, or boiling water may be poured upon it. It is very digestible, and of a fattening nature. COFFEE. 1519. COFFEE FRENCH METHOD OF PREPARING IT. Let your coffee be dry, not in the least mouldy or damaged. COFFEE, TEA, CHOCOLATE, AND COCOA. 373 divide the quantity that is to be roasted into two parts; roast the first part in a coffee roaster, the handle must be constantly turning until the coffee becomes of a dried almond colour or bread raspings, and has lost one eighth of its weight; roast the second part until it becomes the fine brown colour of chestnuts, and has lost one fifth of its weight, mix the two parts together and grind them in a coffee mill; do not roast or make your coffee until the day it is wanted. To two ounces of ground coffee put four cups of cold water, drain off this infusion and put it aside; put to the coffee which remains in the biggin three cups of boiling water, then drain it off and add this to that which has been put on one side, by this method you obtain three cups more; when your coffee is wanted heat it quickly in a silver coffee-pot, taking care not to let it boil that the perfume may not be lost by undergoing any evaporation. 1520. COFFEE, TO BOAST. Coffee should never be roasted but when you are going to use it, and then it should be watched with the greatest care, and made of a gold colour; mind and do not burn it, for a few grains burnt would communicate a bitter taste to the whole; it is the best way to roast it in a roaster over a charcoal fire, which turns with the hand, as by that means it will not be forgotten, which is very often the case when on a spit before the fire. 1521. COFFEE MADE IN A FRENCHFILTER ORGRECQUE. In a quart filter put two ounces of coffee, newly ground, upon the filter, put on the presser, and then the grating, pour slowly on the latter about three parts of a pint of boiling water, and let it filter through, keeping the nozzle of the coffee-pot covered with the sheath, and the lid on the grating; when it has filtered through add a like quantity of boiling water, and when this has passed through add the remaining quantity, press down the coffee grounds, remove the upper portion containing filter and grating, put on the lid and 1522. COFFEE—TO HAKE WITH HOT WATER. Instead of pouring cold water upon the coffee, boiling must be used, taking care the froth does not run over, which is to be pre- vented by pouring the water on the coffee by degrees. 1523. COFFEE TO HAKE WITH COLD WATER. Upon two ounces of coffee pour seven cups of cold water, then boil it until the coffee falls to the bottom, when the froth has disappeared, and it is clear at the top like boiling water, it must be taken off the fire and be allowed to stand, but as it often requires clearing a little cold water should be poured in it the instantit is taken off the fire from boiling. A quicker way of clearing it is by putting in a small piece of isinglass; when it has stood a sufficient time to settle, pour it off into another coffee-pot, and it is fit for use. COFFEE, TEA, CHOCOLATE, AND COCOA. 376 the liquor into a preserving pan, in which is a quarter of a pound of sugar, boiled to caramel; cover this closely, and dissolve the sugar over hot ashes, then pour the coffee into five glasses of hot milk, mix them with yolks of ten eggs and one whole, six ounces of powdered sugar, and a grain of salt, strain the cream and finish in the usual way. 1531. COFFEE A L'EAIJ, CREAM A LA FRANCHISE. Infuse a quarter of a pound of "ground coffee in a glass of water boiling; when the coffee is precipitated pour it off clear. Boil a quarter of a pound of sugar to caramel, pour the coffee to it, and then set it on hot ashes that the sugar may dissolve gently, and when it is perfectly melted stir in gradually the yolks of eight eggs, four glasses of boiling milk, and six ounces of sugar, after which put it on a moderate fire, stirring with a wooden spoon, when it begins to simmer pass it through a fine sieve, and let it stand till luke-warm; then mix it in six dracbms of clarified isin- glass, and finish. 1532. COFFEE A l'eAU, WHIPPED CKEAM. Infuse two ounces of fresh ground coffee in half a glass of water, and when the infusion is drawn off clear, put it to two ounces of sugar boiled to caramel, place it over hot ashes, and when the sugar is dissolved let it cool, then mix it and four ounces of powdered sugar, with the whipped cream. See that article. 1533. COFFEE AU JAUNE D'CEUF. Put into a basin the yolk of an egg and some sugar, then gently pour over them one cup of coffee; carefully beat them together that they may be well mixed, add to them one cup of water, then put it into a bain marie to warm, keeping it constantly stirring with a spoon to prevent its curdling; when it is warm serve it out in cups. 1534.—COFFEE—TO GIVE THE FLAVOTTB OF VANILLA. Take a handful of oats very clean, and let them boil for five or six minutes in soft water, throw this away and fill it up with an equal quantity and let it boil for half an hour, then pass this decoc- tion through a silk sieve and use it to make your coffee, which will acquire by this means the flavour of vanilla, and is very nice. 1535. COFFEE ICE A L'lTALIENNE. Infuse a quarter of a pound of coffee in a pint of double cream, boiling hot, for two hours, closely covered: half whip the whites of nine eggs, and having strained the cream from the coffee, mix it with them; add half a pound of powdered sugar, and put it over it gentle fire till it begins to thicken, then ice it. 378 HOME MADE WINES. CHAPTER XXIII. HOME MADE WINES. OW that fruit and sugar are both so cheap, all house- wives may add wines to their household stores as easily as they may preserves. The difficulty and expense of making is trifling com- pared with what the latter used to be. Next to the fruit, sugar is the most im- portant ingredient. In wine countries the grape, under the influence of climate, contains within itself the chemical properties to produce fermentation, while in England artificial aid is compelled to be used to accomplish it. The four requisites for fermentation are sugar, vegetable extract, malic acid, and water; and upon the proper regula- tion of these constituents the success depends. The fermentation requires great atten- tion, and should neither be suffered to continue too long, nor be checked too early. Its commencement, which will be about a day after the articles have been mixed, will attract attention by the noise it makes. For a sweet wine, the cask should not be closed until the sound of fermentation has almost ceased. If a dry wine, have ready a barrel which has been subjected to the fumes of sulpher, and draw off your wine into it. Hack off the wine, clearing it with isinglass, and bottle in about ten weeks after it. 1545.—APPLE WINE. Add to a barrel of cyder the herb scurlea, the quintessence of wine, a little nitre, and a pound of syrup of honey. Let it work in the cask till clear and well settled, then draw it off and it will be little inferior to Rhenish either in clearness, colour, or flavour. HOME MADE WINES. 379 1546.—APBICOT WINE. Pare and stone some ripe apricots; bruise and put them to six quarts of water and one of white wine; simmer gently for some time, when the fruit is soft pour the liquid to apricots prepared as the others. Let it stand twelve hours, stirring it often, pour off the liquid, and press the remains through a fine bag, and put them together in a cask to ferment, put a pound of sugar to each gallon. Boil an ounce of mace and half an ounce of nutmeg in a quart of white wine, and while hot pour it in the fermenting wine, and hang a bunch of fresh barrage in the cask for three days; draw it off and keep in bottles. 1547-—balm WINE. Boil twenty pounds of lump sugar in four gallons and a half of water gently for an hour, and put it in a tub to cool; bruise two pounds of the tops of green balm, and put them into a barrel with a little new yeast, and when the syrup is nearly cold pour it on the balm; stir it well together, and let it stand four and twenty hours, stirring frequently; bring it up, and when it has stood for six weeks bottle it, put a lump of sugar into each bottle; cork tight. 1548. BARLEY WINE. Boil half a pound of French barley in three waters; save about a pint of the last water, and mix it with a quart of white wine, half a pint of borage water, as much clary water, a little red rose water, the juice of five or six lemons, three quarters of a pound of sugar, the rind of a lemon, strain and bottle it up. 1549. BIBCH WINE. The season for procuring the liquor from the birch tree is in the beginning of March, while the sap is rising and before the leaves shoot out; for when the sap is come forward and the leaves appear, the juice, by being long digested in the bark, grows thick and coloured, which before was white and clear. The method of procur- ing juice is by boring holes in the body of the trees and putting in fossets, which are made from the branches of elder, the pith being taken out. You may, without hurting the tree, if large, tap it in several places, four or five at a time, and by that means save from a good many trees several gallons every day; if you have not enough in one day, the bottles in which it drops must be corked close and rosined or waxed, make use of it as soon 'as you can. Take the sap and boil it as long as any scum rises, skimming it all the time. To every gallon of liquor pour four pounds of good sugar, the thin peel of a lemon, boil it afterwards half an hour, skimming it very well, pour it into a clean tub, and when it is almost cold set it to work with yeast, spread upon a toast; let it stand five or six days, stirring it often; then take such a cask as will hold the liquor, fire a large match dipped in brimstone, and throw it into the cask, stop HOME MADE WINES. 381 six lemons, and four well beaten whites of eggs for half an hour, skimming it carefully; then pour this, while boiling hot, on a peck of fresh clay flowers, with the peels of the lemons used above, and stir it well; add a thin dry toast covered with yeast. When it has worked two or three days, add to it six ounces of syrup of lemons, and a quart of Rhenish wine. Squeeze the clary through a cloth, strain the liquor through a flannel bag in a cask, lay the bung on loosely, and if in the course of a few days it does not work, bung it quite close. The wine may be bottled in three months. 1555. CURRANT WINE. Take sixteen pounds of currants, three gallons of water; break the currants with your hands in the water, strain it off; put to it four- teen pounds of sugar, strain it into a vessel, add a pint of brandy, and a pint of raspberries; stop it down, and let it stand three months. 1556.—CURRANT WINE RED OR WHITE. Take thirty pounds of either red or white currants, and an equal quantity of black currants, and small cherries not stoned, and leaving on the stalks; put the whole into a cask, and bruise them with a large stick; then boil half a quarter of juniper berries in five or six pints of water, to which add half a pound of honey to make the juniper berries ferment; when they have fermented mix them with the juice of the fruits. Stir it together during four and twenty hours two or three times, then fill up the cask with water, and close it. This quantity will make 150 bottles of excellent wine; if you wish to make it stronger put in a pint or two of brandy. 1557-—CURRANT WINE—BLACK. Take three pounds of ripe black currants, pick and bruise them, and put them into a deep basin with four bottles and a half of brandy; add, if you please, some cloves and a little bruised cinnamon, and set the jar in a place for two months. At the end of that time strain off the liquor, press the currants well in order to extract all the juice, which put again into the jar with a pound and three quarters of sugar; leave it until the sugar is melted, and then strain through paper and bottle off. This liquor becomes excellent after three or four years' keeping. 1558. COWSLIP WINE. One gallon of water, three pounds of lump sugar, one Seville orange, and one lemon to every gallon of cowslip pips. First boil the water and sugar an hour, skim it clear and boil, pour it out, let it stand till nearly cold, then put it in the barrel upon the pips, with a teacupful of yeast to eight gallons of wine. Peel half the number of oranges and lemons, squeeze the juice into the cask, cut the remainder into slices, which add with the peels. When the fermen- 382 HOME MADE WINES tation ceases or has lasted long enough, put to the whole a little brandy. 1559. CYPRUS WINE TO IMITATE. To nine gallons of water put nine quarts of the juice of white elder-berries, which have been pressed gently from the berries, and passed through a sieve without bruising the kernels of the berries; add to every gallon of liquor, three pounds of Lisbon sugar; to the whole put an ounce and a half of ginger sliced, and three quarters of an ounce of cloves; then boil this near an hour, taking off the scum as it rises, and pour the whole to cool in a tub, and work it with ale yeast spread upon a toast of bread for three days, then put it into a vessel that will just hold it, adding a pound and a half of raisins split, to lie in liquor till you draw it off, which will be in January. , 1560. DAMSON WINE. Gather the damsons on a dry day, and bruise them. Put them into a stein with a cock in it, and to every eight pounds of fruit add one gallon of boiling water. In two days you may draw it off, and put it into a vessel, and to every gallon of the liquor add two pounds and a half of sugar. Fill up and stop it up close. Keep it in a cool cellar for twelve months, then bottle it, putting a lump of sugar into each bottle. Cork them well, and it will be fit for use in two months after. 1561. ELDER WINE. Pour a gallon of boiling water over every gallon of berries, let it stand twelve hours; then draw it off and boil it up with three pounds and a half of sugar; when boiling beat up some whites of eggs, and clarify it: skim it clear, then add half an ounce of pounded ginger to every gallon of the wine; boil it a little longer before you put it in the tub; when cool put in a toast rubbed in yeast; let it ferment a day or two, after which put it into a barrel previously rinced with brandy. All wines should be lukewarm when the yeast is added to it. 1562. ELDER WINE ANOTHER WAY. To three pounds of elderberries put one pound of damsons, and to a nine gallon cask put a pint of sloes. Boil two gallons of water with an ounce of hops for an hour and a half; then put in sugar, such as four pounds to five quarts of water; keep skimming as it rises, and then set it to cool; boil the fruit for half an hour, strain the juice, and put a quart of it to every gallon of water; then let it work with yeast for three days; put it in the barrel and stop it close. The spice and sugar to be put according to taste. When the wine has stood six weeks put in four pounds of stoned raisins 1563.—ELDER FLOWER WINE. Put ten pounds of sugar to four gallons of water, boil it till a 384 HOME MADE WINES. 1568.—MOUNTAIN WINB. Take some Malaga raisins, press and chop them fine, and to ten pounds of raisins put two gallons of water; let them steep three weeks, stirring it now and then during the time; squeeze out the liquor and put it in a vessel that will just hold it, but be careful not to stop it until it has done hissing, then hung it up close. It will be fit for use in six months. 1569. MULBERRY WINE. Take mulberries that are quite ripe; gather them when the weather is fine, spread them on a cloth on the floor or table for twenty-four hours, and boil up a gallon of water to a gallon of juice; skim the water well, and add a little cinnamon bruised. Add to every gallon six ounces of white sugar-candy finely beaten, skim and strain the water when it is taken off and settled, and put to it the juice of the mulberries, and to every gallon of the mixture put a pint of white or Rhenish wine; let them stand six days in a cask to settle, then draw off the wine and keep it cool. This is a very rich wine. 1570. ORANGE WINE. A dozen of oranges to a gallon of water and three pounds of loaf sugar; pare the oranges thin, and take off all the white skin; squeeze them well, and then put all the juice, oranges, and the water toge- ther, and let it stand for four and twenty hours; then strain it off and put it into a barrel with sugar, half the peels, and a quart of the best brandy; bung it down when it has done hissing: it must stand twelve months before it is bottled. The water must be cold, not boiled. 1571. PARSNIP WINE. Clean and quarter four pounds of parsnips, to which put one gal- lon of water; boil them till tender, drain them through a sieve, but do not bruise them; pour the liquor into a tub, and to each gallon add three pounds of lump sugar and half an ounce of crude tartar; when cool put in the yeast, and let it stand four days in a warm room, then turn it. The mixture should be fermented in a tempera- ture of sixty degrees. When fermentation has subsided, bung down the cask, and let it stand twelve months before bottling it. March and September are the best months for making it. It only requires to be kept a few years to make it superior to all other made wines. 1572.—RAISIN WINE. One hundred of Smvrnas to twenty gallons of water (wine mea- sure); boil half a pound of hops in the water for an hour, let it stand till cold, then pour it over the fruit; let it remain three weeks, stir- ring it every day; press it off and put it into the cask; do not bung it down till the fermentation has ceased; when it has stood about a year draw it off clear, put it in the barrel again, and let it stand to set- tle before it is bottled; before it is bunged down close, put a quart of LIQUEURS, BEVERAGES, ETC. 387 — dissolved in three pints of water; mix it with the spirit, and then filter it 1579.—CAPILLAIRE, TO MAKE. Take fourteen pounds of sugar, three pounds of coarse sugar, six eggs beaten in with the shells, three quarts of water; boil it up twice; skim it well, then add to it a quarter of a pint of orange flower water; strain it through a jelly bag, and put it into bottles when cold; mix a spoonful or two of this syrup, as it is liked for sweetness, in a draught of warm or cold water. 1580. CAPILLAIRE STRITP OF. The capillaire of Canada, although that of Montpellier is equally good, is a very odoriferous vegetable, light and agreeable, but so extremely volatile that the greatest part of it is dissipated during the preparation of the syrup. To preserve then the odour of the capil- laire, when the syrup is sufficiently done, pour it whilst boiling, upon some fresh capillaire, coarsely chopped up, then cover your vessel, and let it stand until it is quite cold, then pass it through a boiling cloth to separate it from the leaves of the capillaire; take one ounce of the capillaire from Canada, put it into a glazed pan, pour upon it four pints of boiling water, leave it to infuse for twelve hours over some warm ashes, strain it, and let it run into a vessel, it will give you a strong tincture of capillare; melt this tincture with four pounds of sugar; put the whole into a preserving-pan, and put it on the fire, and clarify it with the white of an egg, continue the cooking; when your syrup is perle put some fresh capillaire chopped, into a pan, and pour your syrup whilst boiling upon it, cover your pan care- fully, and let it cool; when your syrup is cold you may flavour it if you please. Put it into bottles, and cork it hermetically. 1581.—CAUBLE. Make a fine smooth gruel of half grits, when boiled, strain it, stir it at times till cold; when wanted for use add sugar, wine, and lemon peel, with some nutmeg, according to taste; you may add if you please, besides the wine, a spoonful of brandy, or lemon juice. 1582.—CAUDLE, BROWN. Boil the gruel the same as for white caudle, with six spoonfuls of oatmeal, and strain it, then add a quart of good ale, not bitter, boil it, then sweeten it according to your taste, and add half a pint of white wine; when you do not put in the white wine let it be half ale. 1583. CATTDLE, WHITE. Mix two spoonfuls of oatmeal in a quart of water, with a blade or two of mace, and a piece of lemon peel, stir it often, and let it boil C C 2 390 LIQUEUBS, BEVEBAGE9, ETC. 1594. ORANGEADE. Squeeze the juice; pour some boiling water on the peel, cover it closely, boil water and sugar to a thin syrup and skim it; when all are cold mix the juice, the infusion, and the syrup, with as much water as will make a rich sherbet, strain through a jelly bag. 1595. FABFAII AM00B. Take four fine cedrats, pare thin, infuse with half an ounce of cinnamon, and four ounces of coriander, and three gallons of strong brandy, and a quart of water, for a week or ten days, when distil it in the bain marie; this quantity of brandy, if good, will yield two gallons and half a pint of spirit. Dissolve three pounds and a half of sugar in seven pints of river water, colour it with cochineal, then add it to the spirit; filter, and bottle it. 1596.—punch. Take a very sound lemon, rub the rind on a piece of fine sugar about half a pound, upon this sugar pour half a pint of strong green tea boiling hot, a little syrup of capillaire, the juice of two lemons strained; to these add a quart of brandy. Set the whole on fire, agitate the flame with the punch ladle, and when the liquor is reduced one third extinguish it, and pour the hot punch into glasses. By the introduction of other articles such as arrack, cham- pagne," &C., to the above, it is called arrack punch, champagne punch, &c. 1597.—punch. Squeeze the juice of six fine lemons through a sieve into a china bowl; grate some lemon peel on a piece of sugar, scrape off the surface as it becomes yellow, and dissolve the sugar in the lemon juice; then pour in a bottle of champagne, the same of rum, a bottle of brandy, and a little green tea; dilute these ingredients with hot water at discretion. The quantity of sugar must be also regulated according to taste. 1598.—PUNCH, MILK. Fill a bottle as full as possible of lemon-peel, and then add as much brandy as it will admit; let this, corked, stand in the sun two or three days; then mix with the brandy, having poured it out, two pounds of sugar, two quarts of water, four of brandy, two of boiling milk, boiled with spice, and about a pint of lemon juice; when this is cold strain it till quite clear, and bottle it instantly. 1599.—PUNCH, BUM MILK, FOR TURTLE SOUP. Put the seeds of thirty lemons pared thin into two quarts of rum; let it stand three days; then take three quarts of water, one quart of lemon juice, three quarts of rum, four pounds or perhaps a little more of lump sugar, and two nutmegs grated; mix all BREWING. 393 CHAPTER XXV. BREWING. Much very bad beer is made in families where there is no sparing of materials, for the want of management and economy; attention should be paid to the state of the utensils used, and all necessary preparations made the day before the brewing is commenced; let the water be heated in the copper the day before, that it may be well cleansed, also cleanse the casks, mash tubs, coolers, &c. When this is all done fill your copper, and have everything in readiness for the next morning; the quantity of malt for strong beer must be ten bushels to the hogshead, for ale nine bushels to the hogshead; the copper for making a hogshead of beer or ale, should contain full seventy gallons, because the hogshead of beer measure holds sixty-three gallons, and there should be the surplus measure allowed for the hops, and the working them about to advantage when the water boils, to prevent waste. With this copper, four boilings will afford two hogsheads of strong beer or table ale, or two of table beer. The malt should be ground four or five days before use, and be kept very clean. The ingredients being ready, the water must be made to boil quickly, which done, the copper fire must be then damped. The malt having been previously put in the mashing tub, reserving half a bushel, as soon as the steam from the boiling water begins to subside, the water is poured upon it to wet the malt, so as to render it fit to be mashed, it should then remain covered over for a quarter of an hour, when more water is added, and it is mashed as before; let it stand for a few minutes, and then add the whole quantity of water, according as it is intended to have the beer more or less strong. Whilst the water is lading on, the mash must be kept stirring with a pole. When well mashed run the big end of the mash on through the middle of it to give it air, then put the spare half bushel of malt over the mash and cover the tub over with sacks to keep the steam and spirit of the malt in, and let it remain two hours; then let it run into the receiver and mash again for the second wort in the same manner as the first, excepting that the water must be cooler, and it must not stand more than half the time. Both these worts are mixed together, and the quantity of hops intended are added, when the liquor must be put into the copper, which being closely covered, let it boil gently for two hours, then let the liquor into the receiver 394 BREWING. and the hops be strained therefrom into the coolers. When cool the yeast, which should be white and sweet, is added, and the liquor well stirred from the bottom with a wooden bowl, turning it topsy-turvy in the middle of each tub, which causes the beer to ferment; if it happens that in about two hours the fermentation is not favourable it has been checked, in which case put the mash-oar, &C., across the tubs, and cover them with sacks to encourage the fermentation, when the last thing at night and the first thing in the morning, should be the stirring them well up again. Be careful that the tubs be not too full to work over in the night. The next morning skim the greater part of the yeast off, and prepare to tun it. Let the casks be taken clean and warm into the cellars, which promotes the beer working; it is best to put a gallon of boiling water ir- and tip it out again. Examine the cork and vent holes, and when the casks are filled reserve some spare beer, that as it works you may fill the casks up for the waste; as soon as full take two pounds of flour and beat it up smooth with some of the new beer in a pail with a wisp, and divide it between the two casks, keep it well stirred up from the bottom for a quarter of an hour. The flour thus prepared, gives to the beer and ale a fine soft quality, and while under fermentation adds to its flavour. When this flour is put into the casks each should be stirred with a long stick for a few minutes, then put the tin scoop into the upper cork-hole for the beer to work through, and attend to it three or four times a day, par- ticularly the last thing at night and the first thing in the morning, and when the fermentation is done working, which is usually in three or four days, clean the casks outside and put in the beer the hops saved in the pail, equally divided into both, stirring them about, this operation fines all beers; then bung them tight down with a piece of coarse linen under the bung, if done working, not else. For small or table beer there must be a third mashing. Preserve a pail full of the strong beer to add to the small, let the water, when within a few minutes of boiling, be poured on the mart, keeping it mashed as before, then add the pail of strong and cover it over with sacks as before mentioned, with the mash-oar standing in the middle, and let it remain an hour. Then fill the copper with the liquor and let it boil for an hour gently; the same preparation of flour and beer should be added to the table beer. For good strong beer or ale and of a fine flavour, there should be allowed one pound of hops for every bushel of malt. Hops that are good and free from adulteration, should be of a fine sweet smell, full of ripe seed of a clear pale yellow colour and clammy, which evinces their strength; such an article ameliorates and preserves all beer; the best hops are grown in Kent. The great secret of fining all beers to render them of a clear bright colour, is to take out three quarters of a pailful of the hops from the copper when they have boiled an hour, for this simple method is superior, and more congenial to all beer than all the arts that are practised. If, how- ever, beerremains stubborn either from bad cellars, or bad hops, or bad management, then in order to make beer clear or fine, isinglass may be used, which may be thus prepared: if for fining a hogshead, take 396 BREWING. which is cheaper than the pale malt used for brewing the strong ale and beer—and full fine sweet brown hops. It is not necessary for a porter brewer to give a high price per hundred weight for colour and appearance in hops, when in actual strength they may be thirty per cent, inferior for his purpose, such bright hops being only for delicate ales. A species of hop well adapted for this purpose is met with in Kent, it is produced by the plant, Humulus Germanicus; these hops are best for this purpose, because time should be given them to mellow, and the full bitter requisite will belong to them, if kept. The necessary bitter cannot be extracted from the new hop with- out a harsh unpleasantness; good brewers—those who brew on a large scale—give their hops eight or twelve months' age, and then they work eight or ten pounds of hops per quarter of malt. When the wort and hops are boiling, for every hogshead have ready to put to it one pound of bruised liquorice root cut short, a quarter of a pound of Spanish liquorice, and six pounds of coarse brown sugar, or the same in treacle, and the same in proportion for every cask, be careful to put in these ingredients when the wort and hops are boiling, and let them boil gently for two hours keeping the liquor well stirred from the sides and bottom the whole time, then strain the hops off and put it in the coolers, the same as for other beers. Put into some of the wort .while warm half a pound of moist sugar, boil this in an iron pot till it becomes a thick black liquid, and then add before it is cold a pint of the warm porter^with a spoonful of salt of steel, and mix them well together, this is what the porter brewers call colour, and it is in quality between a bitter and sweet which gives to the liquor a fine mellow taste and colour so much admired in good porter; in six months it is fit for use, and will have a fine head, as no table beer is required from this eight bushels of malt eight pounds of hops will be sufficient. 1612. BROWN STOUT. To brew brown stout, porter, or strong beer, to go abroad, allow ten bushels to the hogshead, and if intended for hot climates, fourteen pounds of hops, good, strong, perfectly sweet, and full of seed. All malt liquor that is brewed for long voyages at sea should be quite ripe and fine before it is put on board, and should be sent in the cask it is tunned in, a thirty-six gallon cask or barrel is the most convenient size for ship board. For sea voyages too, in lieu of vent pegs, vent nails should be procured from the ironmongers, for they shift up and down of themselves, as the beer requires. After the porter is fined in the manner of other beers with good hops, to make it carry a good head lower the hand in drawing it some distance from the cock, and let it run down the side of the tankard, leaving lip room on the top. If families would have good casks and of a uniform size, none are more durable than the iron bound rum puncheons which generally hold about one hundred and twenty gallons which is nearly two hogsheads beer measure, and may be bought of any of the great dealers in Jamaica rum and at a fair price. These with care and particularly if painted in oil colour, will BREWING. 397 last many years. If new casks be purchased, those of the bell shape are preferred. All new casks must be filled with fresh cold water, and left to stand three or four days, and then well scalded before beer is put in them. In cleaning tasks they must be washed with cold water, and nothing is more efficacious and searching in getting the dirt out of all coolers, casks, &tc. than a lump of unslacked lime put into the water; when well soaked they must be well scrubbed and cleaned with a birch broom. If the casks should happen to become musty employ a cooper to unhead them and burn them out. As soon as a cask becomes empty, stop up bung, and vent, and cork- hole tight, which will be the means of keeping them sweet. The taps should be taken from the empty cask and immediately cleaned, scalded with boiling water, and put away in a dry place. Hops of every kind should be kept in a dry place. The hops that are intended to be used when brewing should be wetted thus:—Let the tube stand under the cock of the copper, which half turned enables you to wet them gradually. They should be rubbed through the hands to separate them and break the lumps. To cleanse musty casks dissolve a pound of bay salt and half a pound of alum in water, then add as much dung from a milking cow as will make it thick, not more so than will allow it to pass through a funnel; place it on a fire and stir it with a stick till it nearly boils, then put it into the cask, bung it close, and shake it about for a few minutes and let it remain two hours, then take out the bung and let the vapour escape, fasten it down again, give it another shaking and let it remain two hours more. After this, cleanse the cask thoroughly with cold water, not ceasing till it becomes quite clean and untainted. This done, have ready a liquor made with half a pound of bay salt and two ounces of alum boiled in water, wash the cask well with this and cleanse the cask as before with water, after which the cask will be fit for use. 1613. THE CELLAR. A good brewer, cellarman, &C., will take delight in a well ordered cellar, attention must be paid to cleanliness, both in his person and business; everything in the cellar should be kept in due order. The brewer or cellarman to the gentleman who keeps a large establish- ment should occupy himself every morning in the cellars, the following duties are incumbent:— During the summer months have the beer cellar and steps clean washed weekly, and particularly under the casks, empty the top casks daily into a cask kept for the purpose of holding the slops and grounds, for the cellar should on opening it smell pure and sweet; by attention to these offices the cellar is not only pleasant to enter, but the beer is kept fine and cool during the summer months, whereas by inattention a dirty cellar will cause the beer to turn sour; during the winter months, scraping and sweeping the cellar once a week will be sufficient, observe all cellars in the winter cannot be kept too warm and close, for without attention on this point the liquors cannot thrive. The following articles should be provided to a cellar BREWING. 399 1614. MALT. In choosing the malt, take care that it is not peat or straw dried, and procure it of a pale colour, for they are the best of all malts and more balsamic, also soft and smooth and highly agreeable to the taste; malt should not be ground too fine, but on the contrary, broken or made into a coarse meal. Good malt is known by a simple test, namely, by chewing it, for if well made it will be nearly as sweet as sugar, delightful to the smell, of a mellow flavour, round body, and thin skin. 1615.—hops. When hops are purchased, let them be not packed too loose in the bags, for that does them no good. Be careful that all things belonging to the beer-house be never used for anything else, for if any grease or soap get in the pails or tubs, it prevents the beer working, take care the liquor-stands be quite steady, for if they rock they injure the beer, they should be made of oak, and they will last for years. Observe, never bottle beer, wine, or cider, but on a fine day, let the bottles be well seen to, use none but the best corks. Beer, cider, and perry, for home consumption, should stand in the bottles six or eight hours before they are cooked, cider and perry should have the corks wired and be packed in a bin with sand. 1616. EGG FLIP, OR EGO HOT. This is a beverage much drank in England at Christmas time; if properly made it is very agreeable, but if not skilfully done it is not at all pleasant to the palate. The following is an excellent receipt. One quart of ale, one quart of porter, mix together, and put in a saucepan upon the fire, where it is to remain until covered with a thick cream, but it must not boil. Add to half a pint of gin one quartern of rum and four eggs well beaten; beat up all well toge- ther, add moist sugar to taste. Take the mixed ale and beer off the fire, and pour the mixture of eggs and spirits backwards and forwards several times; now return it to the fire, keep it well stirred, but it must not boil or it will curdle; when it is just on the verge of a boil take it off, pour it into a jug, and then serve in glasses. If it should require any more sugar add it. 1617-—PURL. This is also a winter beverage, and is composed chiefly of gin or rum poured into beer, and made hot, sweetened with sugar and spiced with grated nutmeg. 1618.—SPICED ALE Is made in a similar manner, save that a hot toast is served in it. This is the wassail drink. 400 WASSAIL BOWL. WASSAIL BOWL IN GLOUCESTERSHIRE. "This is their custom, and their jest, When they are at the ale or feast; Ilk man that loves where him think, Shall say Wassail! and to him drink. He that bids shall say wassail! The t'other shall say again Drinkhail! That says wassail drinks of the cup— Kissing his fellow, he gives it up. Drinkhail! he says, and drinks thereof. Kissing him in board and skin." Robert ie Brunne; Temp. Edward I. II. During the Christmas week bands of men, calling themselves " Wassailers," carry about, at night time, a large bowl, made from the wood of the apple-tree; and sing a song and chorus before the doors of their neighbours. Two pieces of stick are generally bent crossways over the bowl: these, as well as the bowl, are ornamented with laurel, mistleoe, various other evergreens, gay ribbons, &c. At the conclusion of the song, the bowl is sent into the house for inspection, in the hope that it may be returned well filled with beer, &c, or accompanied by some trifling pecuniary donation. 404 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 1632.—GINGER BEER. Pour two gallons of boiling water on a quarter of a pound of cream of tartar, one ounce of sliced ginger, two pounds of lump sugar, let it stand six hours, then add two table-spoonfuls of yeast, let it stand six hours more, strain through a fine sieve, put it into stone bottles, tie down the corks, and it will be fit for use in twenty- four hours. 1633.—TO RENDER HARD WATER SOFT. For every hundred gallons take half a pound of the best quick lime, make it into a cream by the addition of water, then diffuse it through the hard water in a tank or reservoir and allow the whole to stand; it will quickly be bright, the lime having united with the carbonate of lime, which makes the hard water, will be all deposited. This is a most beautiful application of the art of chemistry. 1634. HERBS FOR DRYING. The best state in which balm, thyme, sage, and other kitchen or medicinal herbs can be gathered for drying to preserve for winter use is just as their flowers are opening, at that period of growth they are found to contain more of the essential oil, on which their flavours depend, than at any other. 1635. HONEY, TO CLARIFY. Take six pounds of honey, a pound and three quarters of water, two ounces and a quarter of pounded chalk, five ounces of coal pulverized, washed and well dried, the whites of three eggs well beaten in three ounces of water for each pound of honey; put the honey, water, chalk, and eggs into a copper vessel that will hold about one-third more, let them boil for two minutes, throw in the coal, mixing it with a spoon and continuing the boiling two minutes longer; then take the saucepan from the fire and let it stand nearly a quarter of an hour that the liquor may cool, then take a new sieve, it must be well washed or it will impart a disagreeable taste, pass the honey through, taking care to filter the first drops twice, as they generally carry with them a portion of coal: the syrup which still adheres to the coal and other materials may be separated as follows — pour boiling water on them till they no longer retain any sweetness, then put these waters together, set them over a large fire to evaporate until the syrup only remains. 1636. ISINGLASS, TO CLARIFY. Take two ounces of the clearest isinglass for a mould of jelly, put it in a stewpan with water enough to cover it, set it by a stove with a spoon in it to stir it and skim it when any scum rises; let it boil very gently and well reduce, be careful not to reduce too much as it will burn and spoil your jelly, when you think it is reduced enough pass it through a sieve ready for use. 406 MISCELLANEOUS BECEIPT8. 1644. RATS AND MICE.The asphodel is useful in driving away rats and mice, which have such an antipathy to this plant that if their holes be stopped up with it they will ratherdie than pass where it has been placed. 1645.—TO RESTORE STALE BEER. To about a quart of stale beer put half a tea-spoonful of salt of wormwood, this will restore the beer and make it sparkle when poured into a glass like bottled porter. 1646.—RICK MILK. Take some rice—one ounce for each person—wash it well in warm water, then put it in boiling milk, and boil it for two or three hours over a slow fire, stirring often, adding salt or sugar to liking, and cinnamon. 1647. TO TAKE STAINS OUT OFSILKS. Mix together in a phial two ounces of essence of lemon, and one ounce of oil of turpentine. Grease and other spots in silks are to be rubbed gently with a linen rag dipped in the above composition. 1648. TO EXTRACT GREASE SPOTS FROM SILKS, MUSLINS, ETC. Scrape French chalk, put it on the grease spot, and hold it near the fire, or over a warm iron or water-plate filled with boiling water, the grease will melt, and the French chalk absorb it, brush or rub it off; repeat if necessary. 1649. A SUBSTITUTE FOR MILK OR CREAM. Beat up the whole of a fresh egg in a basin, and then pour boiling tea over it gradually, to prevent its curdling, it is difficult from the taste to distinguish it from rich cream. 1650.—SAGO Should be put to soak for an hour in cold water to take off the earthy taste, pour off that and add fresh water, and simmer until the sago is quite clear. Put in with the fresh water a little spice and a slice of lemon peel. A glass of white or red wine and sugar may be added to taste. 1651. TO TAKE MILK FROM CREAM. Use a syphon, and draw off the milk from beneath the surface of the cream, and thus completely separate the two liquids by the simplest means and with the least possible trouble. 408 GLOSSARY. A GLOSSARY OF FOREIGN TERMS USED IN COOKERY, BILLS OF FARE, ETC. Atelets. Small silver skewers. Baba. A French sweet yeast cake. Bain Marie. A flat vessel containing boiling water, intended to hold also other saucepans for the purpose either of cooking or keeping their contents hot . Bouquet. A bunch of parsley and scallions tied up to put in soups, &c. Bouquet garni, or Assaisonné. The same, with the addition of cloves or aromatic herbs. Bourguignote. A ragout of truffles. Braise. This is a method of dressing meat, poultry, &c,without evaporation. It is done by lining a braising pan with thin slices of bacon, beef, or ,real; upon which place whatever you mayintend to braise; and also add carrots, onions, lemons, bay leaf, herbs, pepper, and salt. Brioche. A French yeast cake. Buisson (en). A fanciful mode of dressing up pastry, &c. Capilotade. A hash of poultry. Civet. A hash of game or wild fowl. Compeigne. A French sweet yeast cake, with fruit, Sec. Compote. A mixed ragout to garnish white poultry, &c,; also a method of stewing fruit with syrup for desserts. Compotier. A dish in the dessert service purposely for the compote. Consomme. A clear gravy, very strong ; see receipt. Couronne (en). To serve any prescribed articles on a dish in the form of a crown. Court or short, to stew. The reduction of a sauce until it becomes very thick. Croquettes. A mince of fish, meat, poultry, or rice. Croustade. Bread baked in a mould, and scooped out to contain minces, &C.; Croutons. Bread cut in various shapes and fried lightly in butter or oil. Dorez. To wash pastry, &c, with yolk of egg well beaten. Dorure. Yolks of eggs well beaten. "En papillate.'' White paper is greased with oil or butter, and then folded over a cutlet or small fish, fastening it by screwing the paper at the edges. Entrées are dishes served at the commencement or during the first course of the dinner. Entremets. Small ornamental dishes served in the second and third courses. Financiere. An expensive, highly flavoured, mixed ragout. Flan. A French custard. Glaze (to). To reduce sauces to a jelly, and they will adhere to the meat. Glazeis made usually from reduced consomme, or juices from the bottoms of braised white meats. It should be preserved in jelly pots. Glaze, Glace, or Ice, is composed of white of egg beaten with powdered sugar. Godiveau. A common veal forcemeat. Gras (au), expresses that the article is dressed with meat gravy. Gratin. A layer of any article intended for this purpose is spread over a dish that will bear the fire, and is placed on a stove or hot ashes until it burns.Hors d'eeuvre. A small dish served during the first course. Lard (to). To stick bacon, or whatever meat may be named, into poultry, meat, 410 REMOVES, ENTREES, AND ENTREMETS. Or, with carrots and turnips; Or, Italienne. Galantine of real with stewed peas; Or, with mushrooms; Or, with asparagus. Calf's head a la tourte ; ] Or, with mushrooms; Or, with truffles; Or, with bread crumbs and capers. Capon, boned and forced, mushrooms; Or, with truffles; Or, Italienne. Turkey, boned and forced, with tongue; Or, plain, with oyster sauce. Capon, plain, braised, and oyster sauce. ENTREES. Espagnolets, sweetbreads, and plovers' eggs, or pullets'. Espagnole of rice, with chicken or young rabbit, with plovers' eggs and whole truf- fles. Turban of lamb sweetbreads. Small timbale, macaroni and truffles. Quenelles, garnished with plovers' eggs and whole truffles. Cutlets, fowl or turkey, with tongue and cucumbers. Boarding a la reine. Vol-au-vent a la fricassee. ENTREES OF MUTTON. Haricot mutton. Cutlets do. Saute Rissoles Braised Hashed Emincct Irish stew do. Fillets do. do. do. do. do. do. Tomato. Cucumber. Mushrooms. Italian. Endive. Turnips. Onion. I'ouvcradc. Puree Sobiese. Haricot. Lentils. Pew. Indienne. Puree turnips." French beans. Capers. Spinach. ENTREES OF LAMB. Cutlets. Tendons. Haricot. Blanc. Sweatbreads. Chevanx de frieze. Saute. Braised. Rissoles. Patties. Papillotes. Ears. Trotters. Head. Puree of peas. Tomato. Spinach. Sorrel. Endive. Mushroom. Italian. Truffles. French beans. Sobiese. Button beans. Turnips. Do. puree. Cucumber. Fricandeau. ENTREMETS. Gateau a la Genoises Modina. Gateau a la Neapolitaine marmalade. Gateau chocolate, with cream. Sandwich pastry with caramel top. Vol-au-vent marmalade, sugar top. Albert pudding. Queen's pudding, with vanilla. Almond pudding, with jelly. Puree rice pudding, with maraschino. Savoy pudding, with dried cherries, with Noyeau. Cheesecakes hot. Jellies. Creams. BILLS OF FARE. 411 BILLS OF FARE.JANUARY. Calves' feet soup a la turtle. Crimped cod. Tongue and cheeks. Mushroom sauce. Thnbale of pullets. Mutton cutlets. Beef. Cucumbers. Haricot beans. Vol-au-vent. i Fillet of soles. Sweetmeats and Maitre dTidteL ragout. Saddle of mutton. Second Course. Roast fowl. Pastry fancy. Orange jelly. Noyeau cream. Sea kale. Roast hare. FEBRUARY. Ovster soup. 'Turbot. Noix de veau a la financiere. Lamb cutlets. Tongue and cheeks. CucumbersCutlets with mushrooms. Tendons of veal. Casserolettes with Tomata sauce. saute" Italian sauce. Saddle of mutton. SecondCourse. Roast pheasants with twelve larks round. Vol-au-vent. Thnbale of apple. Cranberries. Fried artichokes. Orange jelly. Hare boned. APRIL. Potage ala printemps. Rcleve par un pate" chaud. Filets de pigeon Cotelettes d'agneau au nature).patens aux concom- bres. Le poisson. Releve par un selle de mouton rôti. Table de côte\ Petits Patesa la reine. Ua ehapon roti. Gelée de noyeau Un perdrix de rouge. gaufres a la Chantilii. Los champignons a I'etuvees. Releve ; les sandwiches au parmesane a l'ecarlates. Potage a la printemps. Releve par les petits poulets aux cham- pignons. Les côtelettes de Les grenndins aux mouton a la pois d'asperges. sobiese. Du saumon boulli. Releve" par le boeuf rod. Table de côt*, Table de cflte, Pates a la reine. Un jambon a la braise. Un chapon rôti. Plum pudding a Gelee du vin de l'anglaise. madere. Les champignons a I'etuvees. Relevé parle souffle aux fleurs d'orange. Soupe a la Windsor. Releve"; un quartier d' agneau rôti. Frieandeau de Emince de volailles veaua la jardiniere, garnie des croquettes. Poisson ; un turbot gami de filets de soles. Releve" j un aitch bone de boeuf bouilli. Deuxiehe Service. Les petits poulets rôtis. La gelee de vin. Pomme de terre a la maitre d'hotcl. L'aspcrges. Creme de Chantilly. L'oison rôti. Side table. Filet de turbot a la maitre d'hdtel. Soupe a la tartufles. Relev and rich, not sweet, 358. Cucumbers, young, to pic- kle, 351. and onions, to pickle, 351. sauce, 196. stewed, 222. cullis for all sorts of meat, 82. curacoa, 386. Curd cakes, Mt.pudding, 259. puffs, 275. Curing beef, M.tongue, 79. Currants (black) water ice, 311. cakes, 304. cream, 305. fresh water ice, 311. fritters a la dauphine, 279. ices, 305, 311. jam, 335. black, 335. of all colours, 335. jelly black, 315. red, 315. white, 315. white or red, 315. dumplings, 267. tart, 269. marmalade, 321. preserved, 335. dry, 335. for tarts, 335. pudding, 258. Curries, cod, 160. chicken,137. fish, 164. a l'lndiennc, 104. lobster, 170. soles, 188. soup, M.Curries, veal, 92. cutlets, M.whitings, 188. Custards, 301. a LaParisienne, 302. almond, 301. baked, 302. cherry, 302. cream, 302. plain, 302. 'lemon, 303. orange, 303. rice without cream, 303. souffles, 286. Cutlet pan, xx. Cutlets, fowl and game, 154. mutton, 100. Cutlets, veal, 88. Cypruswine, to imitate 382. Damson cheese, 293, 294. dried, 336, 337. dumplings, 267. jelly, 316. pudding, 259. tart, 270. to keep, 337. to preserve, 337. wine, 382. Doried mould, xxi. Dauphin gateau, 274. Decanters, to clean, 401.; Derby cheese, Mo.Derbyshire pudding, 264. De St. Denis cheesecakes, 362. Devilled biscuits, 361. Diet bread cake, MI.Different degrees of pre- paring, sugar, 325. Digester (Baldwin and Co.'s) xv. 1 saucepan, xv. stewpan, xvi.' Directions for using Bald- win's Fromagere, 298. Dish cover, xiii. Dishing up fork, xix. Double Gloucester cheese, 289. Dried apples, Mo.:cherries without su- gar, 333. damsons, 336, 337. INDEX. 449 Hunter's beef, 68. Ices, 307. cedrat, 310. water, 310. cherry, 310. currant, 309. fresh water, 311. currants to, 310. ginger cream, 309. Ice for iceing, 308. tea, 377. mould, xiv.puddings, 260. with marmalade, 260. orange water, 311. pineapplecream,309. red currant water, 311. Vanilla cream, 310. water generally, 311. water, black currant, 309. white currant, 311. safe, or refrigerator, xvi. Icingfor cakes, 308. tarts, 309. India pickle, 353. Indian pilau, 136. In haste, pudding, 264. Ink spots, to remove, 405. Irish stew, 103. Isinglass, to clarify, 404, 405. Italian cream, 305. soup, 42. ltalienne, 57. pancakes a la, 278. salads, 205, 207. sauce, 199. J. Hasty cream, 305. Hedgehog, 260. Herb soup, 57. sauce, 198. for drying, 404. to keep,xxvi. Herrings, 168. fresh, baked, 168. boiled, 169. broiled, 169. fried, 169. pickle, 353. pot, 169. Heron pie, 244. Hessian soup, 40. Hints to cooks, important, XXV. Hippocras, 388. red, 388. white, 388. Honey, to clarify, 404. Home-made wines, 3/8. apricot, 379. balm, 379. barley, 379. birch, 379. blackberry, 380. cherry, 380. chocolate, 380. claret, artificial, 380. clary, 380. cowslip, 381. currant, 381. red or white, 381. cypress,to imitate, 382. damson, 382. elder, 382. another, 382. elder flower wine, 382. ginger, 383. gooseberry, 383. grape, 383. mountain, 384. mulberry, 384. orange, 384. parsnip, MI,raisin, 384. raspberry, 385. walnut, 385. Hops, 399. Horseradish, 198. sauces 198, 199. Hot blancmange, 323. Hot plate, xxiii. water apparatus, xxii., xxvi. water to make coffee, 373. Hotch-potch, 57. Hung beef, C9. Jack, to choose, 176. Jam, black currant, 335. currants generally, 335. Jam, cherry, 331, 335. gooseberry, 340. gooseberries as, 341. greengage, 341. Jam, mixed for tarts or tartlets, 275. raspberry, 346. strawberry, 347. Jargonelle Pears,345. J aune d'u-uf, coffee au, 375. G G Jellies, 312. apple, 313. another way, 313. apricots, 314. apricots in, 313. aspic, 312. barberry, 314. calves' foot, 314. cherry, 316. clear, 315. clear apple, 312. coffee, 376. colouring for, 314. currant, 315. black, 315. red,315. red or white, 315. White, 315. damson, 316. for entremets, 316. lemon, 317. mosaic, 317. orange, 317. pint mould of, 318. raspberry, 318. red apples in, 313. rose, 318. rum, 319. savoury, to put over cold pies, 317. to cover cold fish, 317. to keep, 316. Jelly bag, xx. mould, xxi. John dory, 164. Julienne soup, 58. Kebobbed mutton, 104. Ketchup, mushroom, 354, tomato, 355. walnut, 356. Knife-board, useful, 407. Kid, to dress, 144. Kidneys, 72. rognon de boeuf superbe fried, 72. stewed, 73. mutton broiled, 105. Kirschen wasser, 388. Lard, 124. Larding-knife, xix. pin, xviii. Lamb, 107. INDEX. 451 Moor game, 146. Morels, 231. as gravy, 231. keep, 231. Mortar and pestle, xiii. Mosaic jelly, 317. Mountain wine, 384. Muffin pudding. 262. with dried cherries, 262. Mulberry wine, 304. Mullet, grev, 174. red, 174. Mulligatawney soup, 43. Indian method, 43. Mushrooms, 353. broiled, 229. ketchup, 354. mould, xix. pickled, 354. white, 354. sauce, white, 201. brown, 201. a l'Espagnole, 201. Mussel soup, 53. Mustard sauce, 201. Mutton, 97. blanquette ue mou- ton, 102. breast of, 99. crumbed or gratin, M.broth, 45. chops, 100. as beefsteaks, 100. broiled, 100. fried. 100. China chilo, 103. another way, 103. cutlets, too.another way, 100. braised, 100. butter in, 100. Maintenon, 100. saute, 100. fillets of, 101. in marinade, 102. stewed, 101. haunch of, !,7. haricot of, 102. Mutton, leg of, braised, 98. roasted, 97. another way, 97. which has been cut, to send to table neatly, 98. loin of, roasted, 99. steaks from, 99. stewed, 99. like venison, 105. neck of, 99. pasty, like venison, 105. pie, 247. pie me!e, raised, 247. pudding, 262. rissoles of, 104. rognon de mouton a la bourgeoisie, 105. a laFrancaise,104. saddle of, 97. shoulder of, M.sheep's tongues, 106. steaks, 99. stew, Irish, 106. venison as, 104. Nasturtiums, to pickle, 354. Neapolitan gateau, 274. Neat's tongue pickled,354. Nectarines, to keep. 343. to preserve, 343. Nettles, 407. Noix de venu, 91. Norfolk dumplings, 267. North Wiltshire cheese, 289. Noyeau, 389. Nutmeg, economical use of, 403. 0. Miscellaneous receipts— beer, cloudy, to fine, 403. beer, stale, to restore, 406. blacking, 401. cleaning cane chair bottoms, 401. decanters, 401. floor-cloths, 401. pavements, 405. sponges, 402. silk stockings, 402. turkeycarpets, 402. water casks, 402. eggs, to preserve, 405. lire, economical use of, 403. to extinguish, 403. frost-bitten fruits, or vegetables, 403. furniture polish, 403. ginger beer, to make, 404. grease spots, to ex- tract from silk, 406. muslins, 406. hard water, to make soft, 404. herbs, for drying, 404. honey, to clarify, 404. isinglass, to clarify, 404, 405. iron spots on marble, 405. ink spots, to remove, 405. linen, to perfume, 405. marking ink, to ex- tract, 402. milk or cream, sub- stitute for, 406. milk, to take from cream, 406. nettles, utility of, 407. nutmeg, economical use of, 403. offensive smells, to cure, 405. rats and mice, 406. rice milk, 406. sago, substitute for, 400'. silk, to take stains out of, 406. useful knife board, 407. whiting or chalk, to detect in flour, . 402. another way,102. hash, 102. hashed, 102. another way, 103. haggis, scotch, 104. hams, to dress, 105. Irish stew, 103. kebobhed, 104. kidneys,broiled, 105 leg of boiled, 98. boned and stuffed,M.Oatmeal puddings, 262. Observations on cleaning and dressing fish, 155. pies, 237. vegetables, 212. Old English plum puddin 263. Olives of beef, 67. veal, 90. Omelets and eggs, 282 G G 2 452 INDEX. Omelet, 283. a la celestine, 283. a la creme, 284. a la gendarme, 284. au naturel, 284. fritters, 284, glacee, 284. onion, 2H4, 285. of eggs, for garnishing, 284. pan, xix. plain, sweet, 286. Savoy, 285. souffl'e, 285, 286. in a mould, 285. stuffed, 285. Onions, omelet, 284, 285. pickled, 355. pickle, to, 354. Parmesan cheese, with, 295. sauce, 202. sauce, brown, 202. soup, 58. Orange biscuits, MN. cheesecakes, 364. custards, 303. fritters, 280. gravy, 202. in jolly, 344. jelly, 317. lemons, or to keep for puddings, 344. marmalade, 321. peel, to preserve, 344. preserve, to, 344. with marmalade, 323. pudding, 262. sauce, 201. bitter, 202. souffle, 287. tarts, 270. water ice, 311. wine, 334. Orangeade, 390. Ortolan, 143. to roast, 151. English, 151. Oven and hot closet, xxiii. Oxford range, xxiii. Ox-tail soup, 38. another way, 38. tails, 76. haricot of, 76. cheek, stew, 78. Oysters, 174, a l'imperiale, 175. fritters, 17-5, 280. patties, 273. pie, 175. roast, 175. Oyster sauce, 203. for beefsteaks, 202. for entrees, 200.' scalloped, 175. soup, M. . j( stewed, 175. Pain de vcau, 91." Palates of beef, 72. Palestine soup, M. Pancakes, 278. a la Francaise, 278. a l'ltalienne, 278. cream, 278. rice, 278. Parfait amour, 390. coffee, 376. Parisian souffle of straw- berries, 347. Parisienne, custard a la, 302. Parmesan cheese with onions, 295. fritters, 280. Parsley, sauce, 203. Parsnip wine, 284. Partridges, 145. boiled, 145. broiled, 145. pie, 247. potted, 235. stewed, 145. soup, 48. Paste, 238. borders, 239. cheese, 295. dumpling, 267. Genoese,' 239. gum, 239. gum dragon, 239. puff, 238. raised crust, 238. second course paste, 239. stewed beef, or soup?, paste for, 272. sweet, or biscuit crust, 240. cutter, xxi. Pastry, 237. dish of French, 276. fancy, 240. sandwich, 240. Pasty, 272. 'lamb, 272. mutton, like venison, 272. Patties, fish, 273. marrow, 273. Patties, meat, 273. oyster, 273. Pavements, mixture for cleaning, 405. Pears, baked, 344. Jargonelle, 345. tart, 270. to keep, 345. Peas, a la Franffaise, 224 green, 223. soup, 59. dried, soup, M. pudding, 262. stewed, 224. in cream, 225. soup, 58. another way, 58. soup, clear, M. Pepper-pot, M. Perch, 162. Perigord pie, 258. Pheasants, 144. boiled, 144. Philosophy of cookery, 1. Pickle.applecod lings, 34.'.'. for beef, 69. for gherkins, 339. for tongues, Mo. green almond, 349. purple. 351. Pickled artichokes, 350. asparagus, Mo. cabbage, 350. purple, 351. red, 351. white, 351. celery, 251. cucumbers and onions. 351. elder buds, 352. French beans, Mo. gherkins, 352. grapes, 352. herrings, 353. India, 353. lemon, 342. mushrooms, 354. white, 354. nasturtiums, 354." neat's tongue, Mt. Pickled onions, 354, 355. plums like olives,355. quince, 355. samphire, 355. tongue, 356. walnuts, 356, 357. youngcucunibers,351. Pickles, 349. Pickling, rules of, 349. green fruit, 349. Pies, 240. apricot, 240. INDEX. 455 :.> Red Currant water ice, 311. Refrigerator, xvi, Requisite information for making and bak- ing cakes, 351). Remove dishes, 409. Removes, fish, 156. Remoulade, 203. Rhenish cream, 306. Red hippocras, 388. Revolving gridiron, xx. Rhubarb, preserve, 347. tart, 271. Rice, apples in, 277. blancmange, 322. cakes, Mir. casseroles of, 277- cheese, 296. croquettes of, 276. custards without cream, 303. gateau of, 275. milk, 40S. pancakes, 2/8. pound cakes, 367. pudding, 265. with currants, 265. with fruit, 265. soup, 60. Rissoles, 104. of all kinds, 210. Roast beef, 65. fillet, M. beefsteak, N. heart, 74. cold, to fricassee, 7". Roasted cheese for after dinner, 296. Robert sauce, 203, 205. Rognon de mouton, 1M. Rose jelly, 318. Rout cakes, 367. Roux, 204. white, 204. Roynle fritters, 281. Royal harts, 2(50. kitchen at Windsor Castle, with illus- tration, 434. Ruffs and reeves, 151. Rules to be observed in pickling, 349. Rum jelly, 319. milk punch for turtle soup, Mo. ' Rump steaks,plain broiled, 70. stewed, 70. s. Sack, mead, 389. Quaking pudding, Mo. Quenelles, M. soups of all kinds, M, Quince cakes, 367. marmalade, 322. pudding, 264. tart, 270. to pickle, 355. Quinces, 345. preserved, 346. to keep, 346. Rabbits, 152. a la Francaise, 153. boiled, 152. dressed, 153. fricassee, 153. fried, 153. pie, 252. roasted, 152. with onions, 153. liaised crust for pies, 238. pie hot, Anglo-Fran- caise, 24.9. a la Monglas, 249. a la financiere, Mo. pheasant, 251. Russian, 250. served hot, 250. pie, 251. Raisin wine, 384. Ramequins, 300. Ranges, stoves, hot water apparatus, &c., xxii., xxvi. Range, close, &c., xxiv. family (Bcnham's im- proved), xxiii. Oxford, xxiii. Raspberries, preserved,346. to keep, 346. Rispberry cakes, 367. dumpling, 268. jam, 322. jelly, 318. marmalade, 322. tart, 270. with cream, 270. currant cream, 306. vinegar syrup, 318. wine, 385. Ratafia, without sugar or syrup, 318. Ratafias, 369. of four fruits, 391. of seeds, 391. Red apples, in jelly, 313. Saddle of mutton skewer, xix. Sago, 406. cheese, 297. chicken, 188. pudding, 265. soup, 39. Salad, 232. Parisian, 231. Sydney Smith's re- ceipt, 231. Salads, fish, 188. gherkins, 339. Italian, 189. lobster, 189. in an Italian, 189. same, 204. Salmon, 177. boil, 179. broil, 180. dried, 180.' collared, 179. crimped, a la creme, 178. dressed, 177. dry, to, 178. en pnpillotes, ISO. pickle, to, 170. pot, to, 179. pudding, 181. quenelles, 180. roasted, 180. stewed, 180. Salamander, xxi. Salsify, 228. Samphire, to dry or pre- serve, 347. to pickle, 355. Sandwich pastry, 240. Saucepan digester, xv. with loose earthen lining, xvii. lip^xvii. Sauce, 192. anchovy, 192. au beurc, 192. apple, 192. au bain marie, 193. bechamel, 192. another way, 193. bread, 193. brown, 193. butter, burnt, 193. for, 193. calves' brains, with different sauces, 195. caper, a la Francaise, 194. for fish, 194. meat, 19-1. to imitate, 194. INDEX.459 Veal, calf'shead, baked, M.for grill, 92. hashed, 94. pie, 241. heart, 96. kidney, M.liver, M.liver and lights, 96. chops, larded, 89. collops, M.another way, 89. cutlets, M.another way, 88. a la Maintenon,89. crumbed or plain, M.curried, 88. curried, 92. emincees, 91. fillet of roasted, M.boiled, 84. fricandetiu, 92. galantine of, 90. gravy, M.grenadins of, 91. do. from neck, 91. haricoed, 90. knuckle of,boiled,86. another way, M.stewed, 87. another receipt,87. loin of, 86. boiled, M.stewed, M.neck of, 87. braised, 88. stewed, 87. noix de veau, 91. olives of, roti, 90. pain de veau, N.pie, cold, 241. chicken and pars- ley, 253. in a dish, 254. olives, 253. potted, 90, 235, 236. shoulder of, 85. a la Pietlmontese, M.boned and stewed, 85. tendons of, 89. Vegetables, 212. angelica, 215. artichokes, 215. a la St. Cloud, 215. bottoms, 215, 216. frind, 216. Jerusalem, 215. leaf, 215. salads, 216. Vegetables,asparagus, 213. asperge a la pois, 214. en croustade, 213. forced, 214. Italian fashion, 214. beans, 218. beans, French, 216. h laBretonne,217. a, la Francaise, 217. a la maltre d'hdtel, 217. en allumette, 217, fricasseed, 217. garden, preserved, 218. haricot, 218. ala Francaise, 219. roots, 219. white, 219. Spanish receipt, 219. to keep, 216, 217. purte of white, 218. salad of, 218. stewed, 218. Windsor, 218. beetroots, 219. broccoli, 220. and buttered eggs, 220. cabbages, 220. and bacon, 221. boiled, 220. boiled and stewed, 220. game for, 221. keep, to, 220.' ragout, 221. red, 221. 1 red, to stew, 221. salad, 221. cardoons, 222. cauliflowers, 222. isla Franc aise, 222. au fromage, 222. boil, to, 222. chartreuse of, 222. celery, stewed, 223. chartreuse of vege- tables, 213. cucumbers, stewed, 223. endives, 223. au jus, 223. lettuces, 229. morels, 231. in gnvy, 231. to keep, 231. mushroomsh l'Espag- nole,broiled,229. Vegetables, mushroom ketchup, 354 pickled, 354. white, 354. sauce, brown, 201. white, 201. observations on, 212. peas, 223. k la Francaise, 224. green, 223. soup, 59. dried, soup, M.pudding, 262. stewed, 224. in cream, 225. soup, 58. another way, M.soup, clear, M.potatoes, 225. a la maltre d'hdtel, 225. a la creme, 226. balls, 227. broiled, 226. fried, 226. glazed, 226. mash, 227. new, to boil, 225. pudding, 264. puree of, 227. ragout, 226. rissoles, 226. roasted, 225. souffle, 226. soup, 60. salsify, 228. scorzanera, 228. sea kale, 227. stewed, 227. soup, M.Spanish onions, 228. spinach, 228. a l'Anglaise, 228. another way, 228. a la Francaise, 228. ragout, 229. truffles, 230. en surprise, 230. to keep, 230. tourte of, 230. with champaigne, 230. turnips, purée of, 230. whole, 229. salads, 232. Parisian, 231. Sidney Smith's re- ceipt, 231. Vegetable strainer, xxi. Veloute", 48. Venison, 142. dress, to, 142. 460 INDEX. Venison, hash, to, 142. neck of, 143. sauce, 209. shoulder of, stewed, 143. potted, 236. Vermicelli, 266. pudding, 266. soup, 42. Vespetro, 392. Vinegar, various kinds, 357. w. Wines, home made, Cy- press, to imitate, 382. damson, 382. elder, 382. A .M elder, 882. elder flower wine, 382. ginger, 383. gooseberry, 383. grape, 383. mountain, 384. mulberry, 384. orange, 384. parsnip, 384. raisin, 384. raspberry, 385. walnut, 385. Wine cooler, xviii. Winter, to preserve butter for, 283. Wood block, or stand, for pestle and mor- tar, xiii. Woodcocks, 152. potted, 236. Y. Wafers, almond, 275. to make, 368. tongs, xiii. Walnut ketchup, 209. for fish sauce, 356. pickle, 357. pickled, 356. wine, 385. Wassail bowl in Glouces- tershire, 400. Wasser kirschen, 388. Water casks, to clean, 402, filter, xiii. hot, dish, xiii. ices generally, 311. souchy, 187. Warming pot, xviii. Welsh rabbit of toasted cheese, 298. another way, 298. Wheatears, 141. White bait, 188. caudle, 387. currant water ice,311. hippocras, 388. sauce for fish, 208. stock for soup, 36. Whitings, 188. | curry of, 188.] fillets of, 188. puddings, 188. quenelles of, 188. Whole blacktops, 332. Wholesome beverage, 392. Wines, home made, 378. apricot, 379. balm, 379. barley, 379. birch, 379. black berry,330. cherry, 380. chocolate, 3B0. claret, artificial, 380. clary, 380. cowslip, 381. currant, 381. red or white, 381. Yellow almond sweet- meats, 271. Yorkshire cakes, 368. pudding, 2o"'J. pudding-pan, x:x. < ERRATA. Page 1, line 19, for Samoiedes, read Samoied. 10, line 2 from bottom, for for read the. 13, last line, for Urquart read Urquhart. 14, line 3, for health is,—for, read health—is for. 28, line 1, for unite read unites. 16, line 12 from bottom, for follows read follow. 49, line 20, for peal read peel. 64, line 25, for it read they. 127, line 5 from bottom, for brick read loaf. 148, No. Mill, for Livercl read Leveret. 155, line 5 from bottom, for it read them. 189,' last line, for a read one. 208, No. 758, for Tamato read Tomato. 21fi, for 585 read 785. 221, for 119 rend 819. 232, for Head of a Gigantic Prize Cucumber read Head of a Gigantic Asf rar/us. 289, line 4 from bottom, for they are read it is. 358, title of chapter, for Bicuils read Biscuits. 372, line 3, for prefaratory read prefatory. 378, line 8 from bottom, for sulpher read sulphur. 401, last line, for where read were. 410, line 12, second column, for sweatbreads read sweetbreads. It V J. HADDOH, PRINTER, CASTLE STREET, KINSMJRY.