3 3433 05692514 6 -' - -'-- t ' '---' 5 166 MENUS AND 1200 RECIPES OF THE BARON BRISSE IN FRENCH AND ENGLISH TRANSLATED BY MRS. MATTHEW CLARK Hotrtfon ^ SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON CROWN BUILDINGS, l88, FLEET STREET 1882 [All rights reserved} LONDON: PRINTED EY GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, LIMITED, ST. JOHN'S SQUARE. PREFACE. THIS book, which was already one of the most useful and practical of cookery books, has been rendered more complete in this edition by many alterations and modifications. The bills of fare are written entirely according to our French customs. Dishes used by both rich and poor are given in their proper seasons. The recipes have come from many different schools of cookery, and are clearly and concisely explained. In this edition, as in my previous ones, I have not attempted to give recipes for using up scraps, as this art is only useful when you run short of provisions; it is quite a mistake to imagine that warming up previously cooked meat is economical, as all good transformations must be expensive. The only way to use up scraps of meat is to warm them in any of the simple sauces, recipes for which will be found further on. Scraps of fowl or game must not come under this category, as all salmis and marinades have to be made from fowls or game which have been previously roasted. Entries of game or fowl must always be warmed up, in the same sauce, if required to be used on the second day. In cookery, above all things, " Nothing can come of nothing." THE AUTHOR. TRANSLATOR'S NOTE. THE first object I had in translating this work, was to please my cook; but having been asked by many of my friends to give them the recipes (in English) for so me of the celebrated Baron's excellent dishes, I determined to allow my poor translation to appear in print. May I, under these circumstances, ask the forgiveness of all English cooks, if I venture to give them a few hints how best to carry out the views of one of the greatest of French chefs ? Soups.—The reader will at once see that no colouring is ever used in French soups. Fish.—There are many kinds of fish mentioned, which you rarely see mentioned in the fishmongers' bills of fare, but they can be procured at any good fishmonger's if asked for, such as Garfish, Weaver, or Whiting Pollock. Crayfish in excellent condition can always be procured at Schell's, in Wigmore Street. Beef.—Whenever boiled beef is mentioned, it means fresh, not salt meat. Vegetables.—Celery roots and cardoons, both most delicious vegetables, are seldom seen at English dinner-tables, but they have been for sale at Martin's, in Covent Girden, for several years past. Cooking -wine.—Chablis is the white wine generally used for cooking in France; so in the recipes, I hope it will always be used, unless Madeira or Sherry is specially mentioned. Bills of fare for fast days.—There are so many good dishes for our fast days given in this book, that I hope all Catholic families will try them, and perhaps pass happier Fridays than hitherto. EDITH MATTHEW CLARK. ORDER OF DINNER. THE art of giving dinners consists in the knowledge of certain rules, consecrated by custom and determined by fashion, as to the choice of dishes and the reason of their selection, according to time and circumstances. Every country has its different customs which very much depend on the climate and character of its people. But I will now only speak about the manner of serving dinners in our beautiful country of France, as I feel I need go so further for fashions; all the world acknowledges that it is from us that the most varied culinary resources come, and it is also in France that the cleverest artists have devoted their talents to the preparation of dishes, with which to enrich our bills of fare. In fact, it is to us that all fashions of different nations are brought to be accepted according to their merits, and this exchange of new thoughts and ideas has created what is called " fashionable life." DECORATIONS OF THE DINNER-TABLE. How to lay the Covers.—The Order ef Dinner. Formerly dinner-tables were heavily decorated with massive bronze, silver, and cut-glass ornaments, which prevented the guests from seeing each other across the table, and rendered conversation with your opposite neighbour impossible. At the present time, these ornaments have been superseded by low flower-baskets of either glass or silver. Formerly candelabra only held four or five candles, now they hold as many as fourteen or'fifteen, so we require fewer and have more light. Each guest must have a tumbler and three wine-glasses vi ORDER OF DINNER. placed on his right-hand side, arranged according to the order in which the wines are served. First, Madeira; second, Bordeaux; third, Champagne. During dinner extra wines have special glasses handed with them. Finger-glasses with warm water must be handed after crayfish or prawns. The dessert plates must always- have a doiley and a finger- glass placed on them. There are two different ways of serving dinner,—the French and the Russian. The French dinner is divided into three courses, the first com- prises soup, small side dishes, fish, and entre'es; the second, roasts, vegetables, and sweets; the third, dessert, each course being all placed on the table at the same time. The Russian fashion is to place all cold dishes on the table. The hot dishes are carved in the kitchen and handed one by one to the guests. Each of these arrangements has its advan- tages and disadvantages. In the French fashion your dishes often get cold before you can eat them, and in the Russian the guests are deprived of seeing elegant dishes prettily placed on the table. However, it lies entirely in the hands of the host to choose between these two fashions, according to the capabilities of his household. ORDER IN WHICH TO SERVE DINNER. Soups. Small side dishes, viz. Sardines, Radishes, &c. Melon. Small hot side dishes, viz., Stuffed Olives, Marrow-bones, &c. Fish. Joint. Entrees of Meat, Fowl, and Game. Cold entre'es. Punch Ice. (The punch must always be served between "the cold entre'es and the game.") ORDER OF DINNER. vii Roast Chickens and Game. Salad. Dressed Vegetables. Sweets. After this clear the table of everything, except flowers and fruit, and hand cheese, fruits, cakes, bonbons, and ices. Coffee and liqueurs are handed in the drawing-room. ORDER IN WHICH THE WINES ARE HANDED. During the whole of dinner, well-iced dry and sweet champagne must be served. After the soup. Madeira and Vermouth. With the fish. ' Burgundies : either Beaune, Volnay, or Pomard. Clarets : either Mouton, Rausan-Se'gla, Leoville, Gruand-La- rose,Lascombes, Pichon-Longueville, Clos-d'Estournel, or Monrose. Between the cold entrees and the game, offer with the punch ice either Chateau Yquem or Rhine wine ; these wines must only be slightly iced, and served in green glasses. With the roasts and dressed vegetables. Burgundies : La Romance Conti, Clos Vougeot, or Chambertin. Clarets : Chateau Lafite, Margaux, Latour or Hautbrion. With the sweets. Sherry. During dessert. Sweet wines, such as Malmsey, Muscatel, or Tokay. DUTIES OF THE HOST TO HIS GUESTS. You must welcome your guests with effusion, so that they may feel quite at home before sitting down to dinner. Try if possible to introduce your guests to each other before dinner, viii ORDER OF DINNER. particularly if you think there are two people who will sympa- thize with each other. The decision how to place the guests at table must always be a troublesome business for the host; in fact, I consider this the most difficult part of giving a dinner, ' if you wish it to go off well. The host must always have his eye on his guests' plates and glasses, to make sure they have all they require ; and if a guest refuses a dish, the host must try and persuade him to change his mind. A host whose guest has had to ask for anything is a dishonoured man. DUTIES OF A GUEST TOWARDS HIS HOST. The first duty of a guest is to be punctual. Unpunc- tuality must necessarily cause confusion in the kitchen. A dish you have had to wait for is generally good, whilst a dish which has had to wait is generally the contrary. The result is that the cook gets demoralized, he loses his temper at the dinner not being appreciated, and certainly it is sufficient cause to discourage the best of chefs. In consequence it follows that the cook gets into the bad habit of sacrificing the flavour of a dish to the form of serving, finding he has not given satisfaction in the cooking, he tries to please the eye. I cannot speak too strongly on the affectation of being late for dinner, and a good host ought not to wait for one or two people who are late whilst five or six others are watching the hands of the clock and yawning convulsively, a sure proof of how hungry they are. Shame on unpunctual people ! These persons are sometimes called inexact, but it is a wrong name to give them; for a really inexact man will arrive one day ten minutes before his time and the next day ten minutes after, but unpunc- tual people are very exact, they always come late. They are generally people who find it is the only means of attracting attention, and there are others who think it makes them of importance. Unpunctuality really means a wish to force people to ac- knowledge their slavery to the laws of society. PROVISION CALENDAR. JANUARY. UNDER the first kings of France the year commenced on the 1st of March, but during Charlemagne's reign it was altered to Christmas-time ; after Hugh Capet it was changed to Easter; and under Charles IX., the lover of the beautiful Marie Touchet, the anagram of whose name is "Je charme tout," the 1st of January became New Year's day; and it was announced all over Paris with a flourish of trumpets that for the future the 31st of December would close the year. This was a very good decision, for January is worthy of being the first month of the year; the winter season blessed by all gourmands now commences. I have before my eyes an engraving of the sixteenth century, where the twelve months of the year are represented by as many figures. January is personified by a man at table; he is eating like Gargantua, and drinking like Bassompierre, who used to drink a large butt of wine at one draught to the health of the thirteen Swiss cantons; not like St. Macaire of Alexandria, whose saint's day is the 2nd of January, for he only used to eat one leaf of raw cabbage every Sunday; but much more like Charlemagne. January is without doubt the great month for eating. Provisions in season during January. All butcher's meat is good, and fattened poultry are in their prime. Added to the usual game, we have woodcock, larks, geese, and wild duck. The Mediterranean provides us with fresh tunny, and all other fish are in perfection. Truffles have more perfume than at any other time of the year. The first forced asparagus comes into the markets. Li1 PROVISION CALENDAR. FEBRUARY. In all the old almanacks February is represented by an old man warming himself; he is poking the fire and shivering like Mery, who always wished that the summer would come and spend the winter at Marseilles. This legendary figure seems to say to us, " Pray make yourselves comfortable." During this month indigestion is the order of the day. We are in carnival time, which Jules Janin translates as " Adieu to flesh ;" carnival, with all its follies and intemperances. Ava- lanches of truffled fowls and pies of the most tempting description come from the sacred places where truffles are produced. How is it possible not to succumb ? The temptation is too great! Much eating conduces to much drinking, and this can never be more safely done than before Lent; the military man is able to carry his wine; the southerner need not fear sunstroke, and the northerner does not get into a fog. The great gastronomical battle always takes place during Shrove- tide ; after which the gastronomical year may be said to close, and a little diet is most necessary; Lent might almost be called the gourmand's holiday. Provisions in season during February. We have all the same as in January, with the exception of a few more forced vegetables. Butcher's meat continues in per- fection. Game is scarcer, but excellent. The plump white woodhens are at their best, particularly those from Bains, in the Vosges; and we must not forget to shed a tear for the redbreast, which we are deprived of having at our tables by the gentlemen of the Museum of Natural History, who have forbidden their being killed. These professors have most assuredly never tasted this little bird, or they would never have issued this law. MARCH. Repose is as much the result of a well-organized digestion as of a quiet mind. The fatigues of the carnival are only a !i PROVISION CALENDAR. dream in March, and Chateaubriand always told Madame Recamier that the most beautiful half of our lives was composed of our memories. We must religiously recommence to enjoy the rich gifts which are provided for lovers of gastronomy. We have kept Lent amongst our traditions, simply to give historical pleasure to St. Matthew, St. Mark, and Pope Telesphore, not forgetting the lovers of the God "Fish." No one looks on Lent with sadness. A peasant, who had once been a rich man's servant, was heard to say, " I cannot fast, it is far too ex- pensive ; for to fast you must have water game, Geneva trout, carp from the Rhine, forced fruit and vegetables, truffles and champagne." The peasant was perfectly right, for surely the meals of some of our most religious devotees cannot be put under the category of " Abstinence." Provisions in season during March. Butcher's meat is not quite so good, but it is the effect of spring weather on the cattle. We have to fall back on the sea for our resources, not by throwing ourselves into it from a rock, like the unhappy Sappho, but by welcoming myriads of turbot, brill, soles, lobsters, and especially oysters, which are better now than at any other time of the year. Hens begin to lay abun- dantly, and we have forced asparagus, artichokes, radishes, lettuce, peas, French beans, and cauliflowers. APRIL. Palm Sunday and Easter are generally celebrated in this month, and so naturally we come to the Pascal Lamb; other lambs meekly fall under the butcher's knife, and hams present themselves under the triple banner of York, Mayence, and Bayonne. Three cheers for the pork-butchers ! No wonder that even poets have sung in their praises. Butcher's meat begins to improve and the first outdoor vegetables, such as asparagus and greenpeas, gladden the hearts of kings and peasants. In contra- distinction to these earthly constellations, we are rejoiced by 'he sight of a sea star, namely, mackerel, which is so frequently <; xii PROVISION CALENDAR. ____^ . - dressed maitre d'hotel. Kings have often in vain named towns and monuments, but mackerel a la maitre d'hotel is a dish for all centuries. The shad leaves the sea, and comes up the rivers, to try and console us for the loss of game and good poultry. It is true we are still a little under the shadows of Lent, but nature is waking us up to more joyous feelings. Vege- tables and many-coloured flowers refresh our eyes, and we have arrived at the season when our superior feelings of justice must decide against those of the poultry-yard, as regards spring chickens. Mackerel are usually the avant- couriers of sturgeon, which latter fish you can at present buy very cheaply in Paris, no doubt from its having caused many an indigestion when larded with fillets of eel and anchovy and basted with thick crayfish sauce. Provisions in season during April. The same as in March, with the exception of a few more vegetables. MAY. This month is often called the month of Mary, without any prejudice to August, which is not only the special month dedi- cated to the Virgin, but also to the Emperor Augustus. During M-ay lovers and gourmands are of the same mind, the markets try to vie with nature, and deck themselves out gaily with spring chickens, young fowls, and the adorable duckling from Rouen and Nantes, all of which come to gladden our eyes. Amiable tame pigeons, tender as doves, are especially abundant and good just now, they mingle so gracefully with green peas and make a most delicious dish. Fresh morels make their appearance with their sweet perfume and flavour; dear amiable, juicy little morels which are so easy of digestion. We receive millions of artichokes and early vegetables from the south, and we thank it heartily for our anticipated enjoyments, but we must not forget that the finest fruit and vegetables come from " lie de France." Welcome also to the fresh butter which, thanks, to the young grass, is now in perfection. PROVISION CALENDAR. xiii Provisions in season during May. Vegetables are more abundant; besides which we have melons, French beans, cauliflowers, and cucumbers, early peas, broad beans, lettuce, and young turnips, forced straw- berries, and cherries. JUNE. Here we are at the last month of spring, and it is specially celebrated for its beautiful red fruits and flowers. No one can dine better than the bees do this month. Let us follow their good example and abandon to a certain extent our carnivorous tastes, and enjoy all the savoury and abundant productions which are in season. We now have fine young fowls to charm us, and their number is further augmented by invaluable turkey poults and gallant young cocks, which we must no more confound with the interesting capon, than we would compare a fine opera singer with one of the choir at the Sistine ChapeL Provisions in season during June. Under glass : egg-plants, cucumbers, and tomatoes. We can no longer count on asparagus, but out of doors there are French beans, spinach, Morella cherries, raspberries, cherries, strawberries, currants, and gooseberries. JULY. During this month the poultry-yard is in its full glory. There are fattened turkey poults, pullets, and capons. We must not forget veal, which is at its prime. Our markets are filled with river and sea fish; but we must begin to examine our fish critically from head to tail. The hay having been cut, we are enabled to catch crayfish, the little red fish which goes back- wards, and which naturalists say is not a fish, is not red, and does not go backwards. Now is the time to make use of the well-flavoured young rabbits which are in season, and with these resources our dinners can be charmingly varied, whatever any one may say to the contrary. An experienced xiv PRO VISION CALENDAR. dinner-eater is far too clever to grumble at imaginary deprivations during the month of July. Provisions in season during July. All vegetables are in season, and potatoes in abundance. Figs, apricots, peaches, early pears, and apples are now ripe. AUGUST. August was the Emperor Augustus' favourite month, and no one can have been a better judge of a good dinner than he was. This emperor had the whole world at his feet, and he could well set heat and cold at defiance. Rome was at this time not only the capital of the world, but also of gastronomy. Everything worth having was brought to Rome, without Augustus having to exclaim, as did Louis XIV., " I had almost to wait." Large cities become deserted in August on account of the great heat, and people either go to the country, to the sea-side, or to drink the waters. They go about the country and fields, and do not think much about eating. How- ever, at the end of the month shooting begins, and gourmands are provided with young quail, leverets, and young wild boar. Other game is not worth much just yet. Provisions in season during August. The same as in July. Melons, figs, peaches, plums, pears, green almonds, green walnuts, and all kinds of vegetables. SEPTEMBER. Partridge-shooting commences, and at the same time the vintages in the wine districts. Now is the season when you begin to eat with thought. All butcher's meat is good. Game will improve, but we get much which is very good. Thrushes have pecked sufficiently at the grapes to make them worth eating. Sea fish is abundant, and all fruits are in per- fection. Truffles and oysters make their appearance very timidly. It is better not to be too familiar with them just yet, so as to enable your palate to get in order, and also to allow I PROVISION CALENDAR. the sun to put out a few of its fires, after which you wil enjoy them with the enthusiasm which they deserve. Willian the Conqueror took England for the sake of an oyster-bed, and Talleyrand governed the world by the aid of truffles. Young plover begin to appear, and Guignard says they are the most delicate-eating bird. Certainly they know the art of making them into delicious pies at Chartres. Provisions in season during September. September eggs are very good, though not to be compared to those laid in May. Artichokes are better now than at any other time of the year, and it is time to pick our nuts. OCTOBER. It is for poets to make odes to spring, and for gourmands to make verses to autumn. Happy month of October, its only fault being that it is the last month of the gourmand's holiday. During October nature is still beautiful, and all food is good. It always brings back to me the happiest reminiscences. I can almost feel the sweet air of the woods blow against my face. What a jovial season ! We are so gay, so strong, and have such an appetite. Thank God, I have always kept my lighthearted- ness, vigour, and appetite; but when I think of some of the com- panions of my youth, years gone by, oh ! what phantoms they now are, with no digestion, dull eyes. trembling hands that can hardly hold either fork or glass ; they may perhaps enjoy fortune and honours, but what wouldn't they give to be able to enjoy a good dinner as I do ? When Brutus was dying of hunger after a defeat, he exclaimed, " Fortune is but a name." Provisions in season during October. Added to pears and apples we now have almonds^ medlars, and chestnuts. NOVEMBER. Here we are in cold and foggy November, the gastronomical scene has changed; yesterday we were in the country, to-day we find ourselves in town. The actors are the same, only xivi PROVISION CALENDAR. dueling much strengthened and determined to brave indigestion, dfrhich after all can only be called "Remorse of the stomach." We have one recruit in our culinary army, a very unpretentious /one, but that does not prevent its assaulting our appetite : I mean the fresh herring with soft roe, and eaten with mustard sauce. There is a saying that many people die in November, so I advise my friends to have more than one invitation to dinner for the same day, so that if one host fails, they can always have recourse to another to console them. Provisions in season during November. • We are no longer troubled about provisions, our duty is to eat them. DECEMBER. The festive season has now arrived for those gourmands, mostly bachelors who, like Rabelais, always dine out, and show their gratitude by not returning the hospitality offered to them. The hour of execution has sounded, but what an amount of tact is required not to give offence. Who are we to please, husband, wife, father-in-law, or mother-in-law ? Try now, you husbands, who keep your house with a firm hand, and arrange the invitations. I make a bet that the mother-in-law has her own way; all I warn the guest to do is not to remind the mother-in-law that he remembers her in the comet year of 1811, or that the tail of her pet dog does not curl, for it would be sad to end the year with an empty stomach. Provisions in season the same as in November. ERRATA. Page 42, for Raifort sauce read Horseradish sauce. Page 186, for Raifort sauce rtad Horseradish sauce. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. JANUARY 1. Potage a la Conde. Puree of haricot beans a la Conde. Barbue a la bechamel. Brill, bechamel sauce. Aloyau au vin de Madere. Sirloin of beef. Madeira sauce. Poulets rotis a la peau de goret. Roast fowl a la sucking-pig. Artichauts a. la barigoule. Stuffed artichokes a la barigoule. Baba au rhum. Rum cake or Baba. Puree of haricot beans a la Conde. Make a puree of red haricot beans in the same manner as a puree of white haricot beans (see 2nd of July). Put some slices of fried bread in a soup-tureen, and pour the soup over them. Brill, bechamel sauce. Soak your brill in fresh water for two hours, drain, and cover with salt in a deep dish for an hour. Boil in boiling salt and water for twenty or twenty-five minutes over a slow fire. Be careful that the fish does not break. Hand some bechamel sauce in a sauceboat (see 16th of August). Boast fowl a la sucking-pig. Roast your fowl before a good fire ; when nearly cooked, set fire to a lump of lard wrapped up in a piece of paper, which hold in a large iron spoon, let the melting lard drop on the fowl, this will produce a crackly skin like that of a roast sucking-pig. Stuffed artichokes a la barigoule. Trim and wash your artichokes, fill them with a stuff- ing composed of chopped mushrooms, eschalot, parsley, and bacon; the stuffing having first been warmed in fresh butter and seasoned with salt and pepper. Tie a piece of string round each artichoke, and simmer in a saucepan lined with bacon ; sprinkle with salad oil, and serve with their own sauce reduced. B THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. JANUARY 2. Potage a la julienne. Julienne soup. Anguille a la minute. Eels a la minute. Selle de mouton garnie de rissoles. Braisedsaddleofmuttonwithrissoles Mauviettes roties. Roast larks. Laitues farcies. Stuffed lettuces. Flan de creme meringuee. Open tart of frangipane. Julienne soup. Cut up equal quantities of turnips, carrots, and celery into small strips, warm over a slow fire in a little fresh butter until slightly browned; add some strips of leek, lettuce, sorrel- leaves, chervil, and a small lump of sugar. Boil these vegetables in your stock over a slow fire for an hour; shortly before serving add, if in season, a tabkspoonful of green peas and a handful of asparagus heads. Clear the soup of all fat, and pour into a soup-tureen on slices of fried bread crust. Eels a la minute. Skin your eels and cut into pieces; boil in salt and water for ten or fifteen minutes according to the size of the eels, place on a dish, pour some hot maitre d'hotel sauce (see 23rd of March) over them, add a few drops of lemon juice, and garnish with hot boiled potatoes. Braised saddle of mutton with rissoles. Braise the saddle of mutton (see braise 28th of May) and serve with the gravy reduced, garnish with rissoles (see 25th of January). THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. JANUARY 3. Potage brunoise aux pates d'ltalie. Brunoise soup with Italian paste. Morue a la creme. Slices of cod with cream sauce. Cotes de bceuf braisees, gamies de Braised ribs of beef with patties. petits pates. Perdreaux rotis. Roast partridges. Marinade de choux-fleurs. Cauliflower fritters. Compote de poires. Comp6te of pears. Brunoise soup. Slice some carrots, turnips, leeks, celery, and onions, wash and drain them ; warm in a saucepan, with some fresh butter until brown; add a little stock and reduce to a glaze, pour into the necessary quantity of clear soup, and, when boiling, add some Italian paste, which has been boiled separately. Slices of cod with cream sauce. Soak a salted cod's tail and boil in boiling water, drain and cut it up into slices. Melt half a-pound of butter in a sauce- pan, thicken with a little flour, and flavour with pepper and a very little nutmeg; when of a proper substance add a pint of cream and some finely chopped parsley, stir over the fire for five minutes, add the slices of fish, simmer for ten minutes, and serve. Cauliflower fritters. . Blanch your cauliflower, break into pieces and dip into thick white sauce (see 31st of January), leave until cold, and see that they are thoroughly covered with the sauce; take each piece separately in a spoon, dip into batter (see 13th of November), and fry in boiling lard or butter. Serve very hot, garnished with fried parsley. B 2 THE 366 PILLS OF FARE. JANUARY 4. Potage croute au pot. Soup with crusts of bread. Merlans aux fines herbes. Baked whiting with sweet herbs. Poulet a la chasseur. Chicken 4 la chasseur. Filet de bceuf roti. Roast fillet of beef. Pommes de terre sautees. Fried potatoes. Meringues a la Chantilly. Meringues a la Chantilly. Soup with crusts of bread. Lay slices of toasted crust of bread in a deep dish, and moisten with uncleared stock, put the dish into the oven until the toast is brown and quite dry; place the crusts in the soup- tureen and pour the necessary quantity of cleared stock over them. Baked whiting with sweet herbs. Clean the whiting and lay in a baking dish which has been previously buttered and sprinkled with chopped parsley, onion, a little salt, and scraped nutmeg. After placing the whiting in the dish, pour a little fresh melted butter over them, and moisten with equal quantities of white wine and stock. Put the dish in the oven, and when the whiting are half cooked, turn them carefully; when sufficiently done, turn their juice into a saucepan, being careful not to disturb the whiting, add some melted butter and flour to the sauce and boil, add a few drops of lemon juice when ready and a pinch of white pepper. Pour the hot sauce over the whiting, and serve in the same dish in which they have been cooked. Boast fillet of beef. Dress and lard your fillet of beef, and put to soak in salad oil with a little salt, pepper, parsley, slices of raw onion, and a laurel-leaf, for twelve hours. Roast on the spit for three quarters of an hour. Serve with its own gravy, simply adding a few drops of vinegar or the juice of a lemon. 1 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. JANUARY 5. ' Potage a la puree de carottes. Pure"e of carrots. Brochet sauce au beurre d'anchois. Pike, anchovy sauce. Noix de veau a 1'oseille. Chump of veal with sorrel. Canard sauvage r6ti. Roast wild duck. Puree de lentilles. Puree of lentils. Souffle vanille. Vanilla souffle. Puree of carrots. Mince the best parts of some large fresh carrots, put them in a saucepan with some fresh butter and a pinch of sugar, stir until brown, moisten with stock; add a raw peeled potato, and simmer over a slow fire until cooked; pass through a tammy, thin the puree with stock, and serve. Hand fried bread cut into dice separately. Pike, anchovy sauce. To clean your pike you must first cut a hole in its stomach to separate the intestines, and then draw them out through the gills; when the inside is all drawn out, roe and all, boil in salt and water, and serve on a napkin. Hand anchovy sauce with it (see 5th of April). Boast wild duck. Truss the duck, roast by a quick fire, and serve with a lemon. Puree of lentils. Boil the lentils in salt and water with a small bunch of herbs, and some chopped onion and carrot, when boiled pass through a tammy and put the pure'e on the fire, adding either some fresh butter or a little stock to it. Serve with pieces of fried bread. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. JANUARY 6. Potage au pain. Bread soup. Piece de bceuf bouillie sauce aux Boiled beef and tomatoes. tomates. Pieds de veau frits. Fried calf's feet. Lievre roti. Roast hare. Ecrevisses a la bordelaise. Crayfish, bordelaise sauce. Gateau des rois. King's cake. Bread soup. A few minutes before serving, line the bottom of your soup- tureen with crusts of bread, pour sufficient boiling clear stock over them to make them swell, and add the necessary quantity of soup; never boil the bread in the stock, as it is sure to spoil it Hand either grated Parmesan cheese, or the vege- tables which have flavoured the stock in a separate dish. Chump of veal with sorrel. Cook the same as chump of veal a la bourgeoise (see 1 yth of January), and dish up on a pure'e of sorrel. Tomato sauce. Cut some perfectly ripe tomatoes into halves, simmer for half an hour in a saucepan, with some minced lean ham, thyme, laurel-leaves and white pepper, moisten with a tea-cupful of stock and simmer until quite thick, pass through a tammy. When required for use, a little butter or glaze can be added to the sauce. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. JANUARY 7. Potage au macaroni avec parmesan. Maccaroni soup. Poularde a la Montmorency. Pullet a la Montmorcncy. Bar grille^ sauce tartare. Broiled bass, tartare sauce. Gigot roti. Roast leg of mutton. Pure'e de marrons. Puree of chestnuts Omelette souffle"e. Omelet souffle. Maccaroni soup. Soak your maccaroni in salt and water, and boil in a little stock : when cooked, put it in the soup-tureen and pour the necessary quantity of boiling stock over it. Hand either scraped Gruyere or Parmesan cheese with it. Pullet a la Montmorency. Dress a large fat pullet, lard the breast and stuff it with foie gras, hard boiled eggs, and chopped bacon : cook and brown it like a fricandeau (see 1rth of May). Boast partridges. After plucking, cleaning, and trussing your partridges cover them with slices of bacon, and roast before a quick fire for fifteen minutes; sprinkle with salt five minutes before taking off the fire. Serve with brown gravy. Crayfish, bordelaise sance. Boil your crayfish in court-bouillon sauce (see i8th of April) cook some chopped carrots and onions in butter, reduce to a glaze, then add a little white wine and some of the juice of the crayfish, reduce again and pass through a tammy, season strongly with parsley and cayenne-pepper : warm your crayfish in this sauce, and serve in a deep dish. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. JANUARY 8. Potage a la parisienne. Parisian soup. Carpes frites. Fried Carp. Poitrines de mouton -a la sauce Breast of mutton, piquante sauce. piquante. Dinde rotie. Roast turkey hen. Celeri au jus. Stewed celery. Tartelettes aux poires. Pear tartlets. Parisian soup. Cut some leeks into pieces about one and a half inches long, warm in butter, and when brown put them into your stock with some slices of raw potato, and boil well. When cooked pour into the soup tureen over some slices of bread. Fried carp. Clean the carp, then split it open down the back, keep the roe ; soak the fish for a few minutes in vinegar with a little thyme, parsley, laurel-leaves, nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Flour the carp and fry it; when half cooked, add the roe, also well floured, try to keep it firm and a good colour. Serve, sprinkled with salt and the roe placed on the carp. Garnish with fried parsley. Breast of mutton, piquante sauce. Dress two breasts of mutton, tie them round with string and either boil or broil them : when enough cooked, bone and skin them, tie them up again and sprinkle with salt and pepper, after which bread-crumb and broil them. Serve with piquante sauce (see 26th of June). Stewed celery. Blanch your celery, boil in stock, and simmer in brown gravy. A few slices of truffles add immensely to the flavour. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. JANUARY 9. Potage Colbert. Colbert soup. Anguille a la Suffren. Eel a la Suffren. Poulet a 1'estragon. Chicken with tarragon. Quartier de chevreuil r6ti. Roast roebuck. Epinards au jus. Stewed spinach. Bavaroise au chocolat. Bavarian chocolate cream. Colbert soup. Thoroughly blanch the hearts of four or five heads of endive, warm them in butter, and add the necessary quantity of stock thickened with yolks of egg and cream. When done add some poached eggs. Eel a la Suflren. Skin your eel and lard it with fillets of anchovies and gherkins, lay it in a circle in a stew-pan, and cook with marinade sauce (see 3rd of December). Put hot coals on the cover of the stew- pan ; when done, serve, covered with tomato sauce, to which add a pinch of cayenne-pepper. Chicken with tarragon. Boil some finely chopped tarragon-leaves and take a third of them to mix with a stuffing made of minced liver of chicken, scraped lean bacon, salt and pepper, stuff the fowl with it, truss and cover with slices of bacon ; wrap up in a sheet of buttered paper and roast. Melt some fresh butter, stir in a little flour, and add the remainder of the tarragon leaves,- a little gravy, a few drops of vinegar, salt and pepper. When the fowl is two- thirds cooked, take it off the spit and simmer' in a stew-pan with the sauce until quite done. Thicken the sauce with two or three yolks of egg before serving. 1o THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. JANUARY 1o. MENU EN MAIGRE. DINNER FOR FAST DAY. Riz au lait d'amandes. Rice soup with almonds. Carpe au bleu. Pickled carp. CEufs poches a 1'estragon. Poached eggs with tarragon. Eperlans frits. Fried smelts. Macaroni au gratin. Maccaroni au gratin. Beignets aux confitures. Jam fritters. Bice soup with almonds. Put three quarters of a pound of half-boiled rice into three" and a half pints of hot milk, simmer until thoroughly boiled, season with salt and a pinch of powdered sugar; add half a pint of milk of almonds just before taking off the fire. Pickled carp. Iii dressing the carp, be careful to open it as little as pos- sible ; tie up the head and place in a fish-pan, pour some boil- ing vinegar over it, then a tumbler of red wine, three large onions sliced, two carrots, parsley, sage, a little garlic, thyme, laurel leaves, and a few cloves. Let this simmer over a slow fire for an hour, after which leave in the fish-pan until cold, when it will be ready to serve. Poached egga with tarragon. Have some boiling water, with a little vinegar and salt in it, ready to poach your eggs ; when done, drain the eggs carefully, and serve with white sauce (see 3151 of January). THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. n JANUARY n. Potage aux petits oignons. Young onion soup. Maquereaux grilles a la maitre Broiled mackerel a la maitre d'hotel. d'hotel. Quartiers d'oie a la lyonnaise. Hashed goose a la lyonnaise. Filet de bceuf roti. Roast fillet of beef. Choux-fleurs au gratin. Cauliflower au gratin. Abricots au riz, chauds, Hot rice and apricots. Young onion soup. Peel and blanch your onions tarefully; cook them in a little fresh butter until a good brown colour, put them into your stock, with a pinch of black pepper, when boiling clear the soup of all grease, and pour into the soup-tureen over slices of fried bread. Broiled mackerel a la maitre d'hotel. Clean and split open your mackerel, and put them to soak -for half an hour in olive oil, with salt and pepper. Broil them, and when cooked put them on a dish and lay some cold maitre d'hotel sauce (see 23rd of March) in a wooden spoon over them, add a little lemon juice to the sauce. Serve the mackerel very hot. Broiled bass, tartare sauce. Broil your bass, and serve with tartare sauce (see 15th of March). Hashed goose a la lyonnaise. Cut the legs of the goose into small pieces, and fry in the fat of the goose; when done, fry some sliced onions in the same fat until brown, drain them, and lay on the pieces of goose, which must be piled up on a dish. Cover with poivrade sauce (see 21st of March). 12 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. JANUARY 12. Potage a la Faubonne. Soup a la Faubonne. Matelote de carpe et d'anguille. Stewed carp and eel. Selle de mouton a 1'anglaise. Saddle of mutton. Chapon r6ti, au cresson. Roast capon and watercress. Macaroni a 1'italienne. Maccaroni cheese. Pommes a la Bourdaloue. Apples a la Bordaloue. Soup a la Faubonne. Cut up some young onions, celery, lettuce, and sorrel-leaves, brown them in fresh butter, add them to your stock, and, when boiling, thicken with a puree of green peas, and serve. Stewed carp and eel. Have a carp, an eel, some barbel, and live crayfish, cut all but the crayfish into pieces, and warm in some browning made of butter and flour, add some half-cooked onions, chopped mushrooms, a bunch of herbs, salt and pepper ; moisten with good stock, red wine, and boil over a quick fire. When well boiled simmer half an hour over a slow fire. Serve with sippets of fried bread. Boast saddle of mutton. Hang your saddle until tender, then roast on the spit, wrapped up in buttered paper. A few minutes before serving take off the paper, to give the mutton a good brown colour. Serve with its own gravy. Boast capon with watercresses. Roast the same as a fowl (see 25th of June). THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 13 JANUARY 13. Potage paysanne. Peasant's soup. Barbue sauce diplomate. Brill, diplomatic sauce. Civet de lievre. Jugged hare. Cailles ou merles de Corse rfitis. Roast quails or blackbirds. Artichauts a la barigoule. Stuffed artichokes. Beignets de pommes chauds. Hot apple fritters. Peasant's soup. Chop up some cabbage, carrots, onions, and celery, put them on the fire in a saucepan with some fresh butter and salt. As soon as the vegetables are soft, moisten them with stock and simmer over a slow fire for three hours ; add sufficient water for the soup required, and simmer for half an hour. It is better if either lentils or haricot beans have been boiled in the water you add. At the end of half an hour, put in some chopped sorrel-leaves and lettuce, and boil. Pour the soup over crusts of bread in the soup-tureen. Brill, diplomatic sauce. Dress the brill and place in a fish-pan with some parsley, a sliced onion, salt and pepper, a bottle of white wine, and three wine-glasses of water. Cover the fish with buttered paper and place the pan in a slow oven. Serve with bechamel sauce (see i6th of August) mixed with some crayfish juice. Boast turkey-hen. Lard your turkey and roast, covered with buttered paper; when nearly done, take off the paper so as to brown the skin. Serve with its own gravy. 14 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. JANUARY 14. Potage au tapioca. Tapioca soup. Piece de bceuf bouillie garnie Boiled beef with glazed onions. d'oignons glaces. Mauviettes en salmis. Salmis of larks. Gigot roti. Roast leg of mutton. Salade de legumes. Vegetable salad. Pouding. Plum pudding. Tapioca soup. Warm some clear soup, and when boiling, add your tapioca. Allow four table-spoonsful of tapioca to each quart of soup. Glazed onions. Choose some small white onions, as much of one size as possible, peel carefully; butter the bottom of the saucepan, lay the onions in it side by side, add a little water, salt, pepper, powdered sugar, and a lump of butter; cover with a buttered sheet of paper, cook over a quick fire until the sauce is reduced one-half, after which simmer until reduced to a glaze ; place the onions on a dish, and if the sauce is too thick, add some thin Spanish sauce, clear of all grease, pass through a tammy, and pour over the onions. Salmis of larks. Warm your larks in butter and a little salt, when a good colour, add some white wine, stock, and chopped mushrooms, eschalots, and parsley, boil and serve, garnished with sippets of fried bread. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 15 JANUARY 15. Potage aux ceufs poche's. Soup with poached eggs. Barbue a la Sainte-Menehould. Brill a la Saint Menehould. Cotellettes de mouton aux oignons. Mutton cutlets with onions. Caneton roti. Roast duckling. Gratin de pommes de terre. Baked potatoes with bread-crumbs. Meringues a la Chantilly vanillees. Meringues a la Chantilly. Brill a la Saint Mraichould. Warm-some pieces of cold boiled brill in a thick be'chamel sauce (see 16th of August), pile up the whole on a baking-dish, smooth over with the blade of a knife, and sprinkle with bread-crumbs and grated Parmesan cheese, brown in the oven, or with a salamander. Mutton cutlets with onions. Trim and beat your cutlets to flatten them, lard them with bacon and ham, put the dressings in a saucepan with three or four onions, two carrots, parsley, and leeks ; place the cutlets on this, and moisten with stock until they are thoroughly wet, cover with slices of bacon, and put a buttered paper over it all; as soon as it boils, put on the cover of the saucepan, and lay some hot coals on it; when cooked, drain off the cutlets ancl trim them again; pass the juice through a tammy, and reduce to a glaze, replace the cutlets; when well covered on both sides with the glaze, place them round a dish and pour a puree of white onion sauce (see 1 1th of December) in the centre. Surround the cutlets with young onions, which have been boiled in stock. 16 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. JANUARY 16. Potage brunoise au riz. Brunoise soup with rice. — Merlans frits. Fried whiting. Bceuf a. la mode. Bceuf a la mode. Be'casses roties. Roast woodcock. x^ Petits pois a la francaise (con- Preserved green peas a la lyonnaise. serves). Pains de la Mecque au citron. Mecca loaves flavoured with lemon.- Brunoise soap with rice. Cut up some carrots, turnips, celery, white cabbage, and leeks into dice, boil thoroughly in stock, when done add the required quantity of clear soup and a few table-spoonsful of boiled rice. Fried whiting. Clean your whiting, leave the livers, cut off the fins and tails, make two or three slits crossvvays down the sides, sprinkle with flour, and fry in boiling lard; when a good colour, dry in a cloth, sprinkle with salt, and dish up on a napkin, garnished with fried parsley. Boast woodcock. Draw your woodcock, and mince the trail, with half the quantity of bacon, some chopped onion and eschalot, salt and black pepper, stuff the birds with this, cover with slices of bacon, roast before a quick fire and serve on toast. Some people prefer not to stuff woodcock, but simply to roast them covered with slices of bacon and leaving the trail. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 17 JANUARY 17. Potage aux nouilles. German paste soup. Rougets en caisse. Red mullet in cases. Noix de veau k la bourgeoise. Chump of veal a la bourgeoise. Lievre r6ti. Roast hare. Artichauts frits. Fried artichokes. Baba au rhum. Rum cake or Baba. German paste soup. Take a pint of flour, three yolks of egg, two whole eggs, salt, black pepper, a pinch of grated nutmeg, stir in sufficient stock to make it into a thin paste. Warm some stock, and when quite boiling, pass the paste through a drainer into it; be care- ful to keep it at boiling-point or the paste will melt; when sufficiently done, add the required quantity of stock, and serve. Chump of veal a la bourgeoise. Butter a stew-pan, and line with slices of bacon and trim- mings of veal. Lard a chump of veal, and place in the stew- pan, add a tumblerful of stock, a bouquet of parsley, leeks, onions, and carrots, cook over a moderate fire with hot coals on the cover of the stew-pan ; when done, drain the veal and glaze it. Pass the sauce through a tammy, reduce to a glaze, add two tablespoonsful of Spanish sauce (see 3rd of November), or if you have not any ready, moisten with a little thin browning, some white wine and gravy, stir in a lump of butter and pour over the veaL 18 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. JANUARY 18. Potage a la Crecy Crecy, or carrot soup. Carpe a la Chambord. Carp a la Chambord. Selle de mouton braisee Braised saddle of mutton. Faisan barde r6ti. Roast larded pheasant. Haricots verts a la maitre d'hotel Preserved French beans, malt re (conserves). d" hotel. Tartelettes aux pommes. Apple tartlets. Crecy, or carrot soup. Cut some carrots, turnips, celery, and onions, blanch in boiling water, and put on the fire with some thin slices of lean ham, some fresh butter, a pinch of sugar, and a little stock; when boiled, mash the vegetables, pass through a tammy and moisten them with the water they were boiled in. Simmer this pure'e for two hours, clear of all grease, and serve with dice of fried bread. Carp. a la Chambord. Dress and skin a large carp, lard it on one side with fine fillets of bacon, stuff with the quenelle stuffing (see 3rd of September), and boil in court-bouillon sauce (see 18th of April) with some white wine and herbs ; when boiled, take it out of the fish-pan and place on a dish in the oven to brown the larded side; serve, surrounded by quenelles, larded sweet-breads, large crayfish, fried bread, the bottoms of artichokes, and a sauce made of the juice of the carp added to some Spanish^ sauce (see 3rd of November). Compote of stewed fruit a la Normande. Simmer some freshly made cider for six hours, stir occa- sionally and skim ; when reduced one-half, add some pears cut into quarters, peeled, and the cores scooped out. See that the fruit is well covered with cider as it must simmer for twelve hours ; when the substance of jam, put the compote into jam- pots ; this preserve, if carefully made, will keep for years. Sometimes pieces of tender carrot, cut the same shape as the pieces of pear, are added to this compote; if such is the case put them in the cider long before the pears. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 19 JANUARY 19. Potage aux poireaux. Leek soup. Poularde au riz. Chicken and rice. Civet de chevreuil. Jugged venison. Brochet au bleu. Pickled pike. Choux de Bruxelles sautes au beurre. Dressed Brussels sprouts. CEufs aux pistaches. Eggs with pistachio nuts. Leek soup. Brown some leeks in fresh butter, when a good colour put them into your stock and boil for half an hour ; when ready, pour into your soup-tureen over slices of bread. Chicken and rice. Truss your fowl for boiling, and cook it as in the recipe "Half braise " (see 3rd of September). Blanch three quarters of a pound of fine rice, and boil in some of the juice from the fowl; when done, put the fowl on a dish, clear the grease off the rice, season it with salt, black pepper, and fresh butter, and pour over the chicken. Jugged venison or roebuck. Cut up a breast and neck of venison, warm in melted butter, add a little flour, a tumblerful of red wine, laurel leaves, the juice of a lemon, a bouquet of parsley and thyme, a pinch of mixed spice, moisten with stock, simmer for two hours, and serve. Baked puree of potatoes with bread-crumbs. Make a puree of potatoes (see 3oth of December), lay in a tin or plated dish, sprinkle with grated crusts of bread, moisten with fresh melted butter, brown in the oven or with a sala- mander, and serve very hot. C 2 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. JANUARY 20. MENU EN MAIGRE. BILL OF FARE FOR FAST DAY. Potage aux herbes. Herb soup. Rouget en caisse. Red mullet in cases. Brochet au bleu. Pickled pike. Croquettes de pommes de terre. Potato croquettes. Cardens au gratin a 1'italienne. Baked cardoons k 1'italienne. Croquenbouche aux fruits glaces. Candied fruit. Herb soup. Put a large piece of fresh butter in a saucepan, with some leeks, sorrel, chervil, and lettuce leaves, a bouquet of mixed herbs, salt and pepper; when sufficiently done, add the re- quired quantity of water, boil well, and thicken with yolks of egg and cream. Bed mullet in cases. Clean out your fish, save the livers and replace them in the mullet with some well salted butter, pepper, and finely chopped parsley. Wrap each mullet in an oiled sheet of paper, sprinkle over with olive oil, chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and a little garlic, place them on the gridiron with red-hot coals under- neath and hold a salamander over them, this prevents your having to turn the fish. When cooked, squeeze the juice of a lemon over the mullet. Some cooks do not clean out their red mullet. Pickled pike. Thoroughly clean and scale your pike, and sew up its head. The day previous to eating it, boil gently in court-bouillon sauce (see 18th of April) made with red wine, add a few bay-' leaves. When cooked, leave it in the sauce. Next day, before \ serving, drain off all the liquid, and garnish with parsley. Hand oil and vinegar with this dish. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 21 JANUARY 21. Potage a la franjaise. French soup. Bceuf garni de petits pates. " Beef garnjsj1ed with patties. f Ris de veau a 1'espaguole. Sweet-bread, Spanish sauce. Perdreaux r6tis. Roast partridges. Salade de homard. Lobster salad. Charlotte de poires. Pear Charlotte. French soup. Break the best pieces of vegetable out of your stock-pot, and place them in the soup-tureen, pour boiling clear stock on to them, and throw in a teaspoonful of chopped chervil. Hand fried toast with this soup. Sweet-breads, Spanish sauce. Drain and blanch your sweet-breads and let them cool, lard them, line a saucepan with slices of veal and bacon, and pieces of onion and carrot, lay the sweet-breads on this, without pressing them, and moisten with stock, cover with buttered paper and place on the fire; when cooked, put the dressings in another saucepan and reduce to a glaze, replace the sweet- breads and reduce again ; when browned put in a dish; loosen the glaze from the saucepan by adding a little browning, which you must thin with some stock, and pour over the sweet- breads. Hollandaise or Dutch sauce. Put four and a half ounces of fresh butter in a bowl, three yolks of fresh eggs, a little salt, and a teaspoonful of vinegar ; warm in a bain-marie until it thickens. Just before serving, add the juice of a lemon. 22 THE 366 BILLS Of FARE. JANUARY 32. Potage aux pites d'ltalie. Soup with Italian paste. Maquereaux bouillis a 1'eau de sel. ' Boiled mackerel. CStes deboeuf braisees a la puree de Braised ribs of beef, puree of tomates. tomatoes. Poulet roti. Roast fowl. Celeri-rave a la sauce au beurre. Celery roots with butter sauce. Baba au rhum. • Baba or rum cake. Soup with Italian paste. Blanch seven ounces of Italian paste, those the shape of a melon seed are the best, boil for ten minutes in water, and put to cool, then drain in a sieve. Vut them into the stock, and boil for five minutes, season according to taste, and serve with grated Parmesan cheese. Braised ribs of beef with puree of tomatoes. Tie up your piece of meat and place in a stew-pan, with half a bottle of white wine, a spoonful of brandy, two pints of stock, three and a half ounces onion, stuck with three cloves, three and a half ounces carrot, a bouquet of thyme, laurel-leaves and parsley, and some whole black peppers ; boil and skim, after which either bake in the oven or have some hot coals on the lid of the stew-pan, being careful to take it off the fire every half-hour. As soon as the beef is sufficiently cooked, put the juice in a saucepan, reduce it to about the quantity of two wine- glassesful, and mix with your pure'e of tomatoes, keep on the fire for ten minutes. Serve the ribs of beef separately from the sauce. Celery roots with butter sauce. Boil the roots in water with plenty of salt, when cooked,' drain them, and put a lump of fresh butter on the celery; when melted, take off the fire. Serve with butter sauce. Fresh butter sauce. Melt some fresh butter, and flavour with salt, pepper, and chopped parsley. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 23 JANUARY 23. 'Potage a la puree de pois. Pea soup. Barbeau au court-bouillon. Barbel boiled in court-bouillon. Haricot de mouton. Haricot of mutton. Grives roties. Roast thrushes. Artichauts k 1'italienne. Artichokes, Italian sauce. Omelette aux confitures. Sweet omelet. Pea soup. Boil the peas in stock with a carrot and two onions; as soon as they are cooked, pass them through a tammy and add stock to your taste; boil for twenty minutes. Pour into the soup- tureen over fried bread. Barbel boiled in court-bouillon. If the barbel is large, simply clean it and take the scales off after boiling. Pour some boiling vinegar over it and sprinkle with pepper and salt; then place in a fish-pan some wine, three cloves, laurel-leaves, onions, lemon peel, a bouquet of herbs, salt and pepper; when this mixture begins to boil, put in the barbel and boil it, when cooked, scale the fish, drain it well and serve on a napkin, garnish with watercress. Any kind of sauce will go with this fish. Haricot of mutton. Cut up part of a loin of mutton, and brown the pieces in some butter, when a good colour, take them off the fire, reduce the sauce, and replace the meat, adding some stock, small potatoes, a bouquet of thyme, laurel leaves, and parsley, salt, pepper, and a tiny pinch of nutmeg. Cook over a slow fire, skim and serve. 24 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. JANUARY 24. Potage bisque d'ecrevisses. Crayfish soup. Tete de veau nature. Stewed calf's head. Marinade de volatile. Chicken fritters. •—— Cuissot de sanglier roti. Roast haunch of boar. Pommes sautees. Souffle of apples. Bavarois au the. Blanc mange of maizena, flavoured with tea._. Stewed calf's head. Bone the calf's head, keep the brains separate and drain them for an hour, then boil them with some water and lemon juice and leave them in their water. Scald the calf s head, cut out the tongue and put it to cool. Cut the head into four pieces, and place in a stew-pan large enough for it only to fill it two- thirds ; in another saucepan put two ounces of thyme, one ounce laurel leaves, three and a half ounces onion, one ounce carrot, two ounces flour, two quarts of water, salt, whole black pepper, and two wine-glasses of vinegar; when this boils pour it over the calf's head, and place it on the fire, adding the tongue. After boiling for two hours and a half, place the two pieces with the ears at one end of a dish and the two other pieces opposite, split the tongue, lay in the centre of the dish, put the brains on it, and garnish with parsley. I consider this the best manner of cooking calfs head. Fried slices of bread-crumb or brioche. Fry some slices of bread-crumb or brioche (see 24th ofDecem- ber) about a quarter of an inch thick and three inches in diameter, in some very fresh melted butter, until of a golden colour, be careful to keep the -bread soft. Spread whatever jam or compote you prefer on each slice and place round a dish, fill the centre with a syrup, made with the same kind of preserve, melted in equal quantities of sherry and water, pour in when hot, and place the dish in the oven for a few minutes. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 25 JANUARY 25. Potage au riz. Rice soup/— Eosbif garni de rissoles. Roast beef and rissoles. Filets de merlan a la Conti. Fillets of whiting a la Conti. Dinde rotie. Roast Turkey.-' Kpinards au jus. Stewed spinach with gravy. Flan de poires. Pear tart. Bice soup. Thoroughly'wash and scald your rice, when cool, drain it and place in boiling stock, and simmer gently over a slow fire until cooked. Bissoles. Rissoles are composed of cold roast meat, minced well, spiced and rolled in very thin paste, which you fry in lard or butter. Fillets of whiting' a la Conti. Cut each fillet into four pieces and fry in melted butter, salt, pepper, and the juice of two lemons. When the fillets are brown on both sides, dry them on a cloth; add some slices of truffles to the butter, reduce, and thicken with a little more butter. Serve on pieces of fried bread. . . Brussels sprouts with butter. Clean your sprouts carefully and boil in boiling water and salt, drain them thoroughly, and put them in a frying-pan with some fresh butter, when the butter is melted, place them on a dish and sprinkle with salt and pepper. 26 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. JANUARY 26. Potage en fausse tortue. Mock turtle soupr—~. ^perlans au gratin. Baked smelts..— Langue de bceuf braisee sauce Braised ox tongue, tomato sauce. tomate. Gigot de chevreuil roti. Roast leg of roebuck. Puree de haricots k la creme. Puree of haricot beans with cream. Beignets de pommes. Apple fritters. Mock turtle soup, French fashion. Take two pounds of lean mutton, with scraps of turbot or any kind of fish, such as salmon, whiting or carp, use heads and all, warm in a saucepan with butter and a bouquet of herbs until brown, then boil in water till the bones drop from the mutton; pass the stock through a cloth, clear it with whites of egg, reduce until it is thick enough to bear the addition of half a bottle of Madeira without making it too thin; then add the quarter of a calf s head which has been previously boiled in white wine and cut into small squares, season with cayenne and serve. Baked smelts. Wash and clean your smelts and lay them in a tin dish with some melted fresh butter, dried herbs, salt, pepper, and a little nutmeg, cover them entirely with scraped crust of bread, moisten with hot melted butter drop by drop and then pour a little white wine over it. Reduce the sauce in a slow oven and brown with a salamander. Braised ox-tongue. Thoroughly wash and trim your tongue, lard it, and simmer over a slow fire for five or six hours with some slices of bacon, veal, or' beef, a few slices of carrots, onions, thyme, laurel leaves, and cloves. When sufficiently cooked, skin and trim the tongue and split it in half, so as to form the shape of a heart on the dish. Serve with tomato sauce (see 6th of January). THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 27 JANUARY 27. Potage croute au pot. Soup with gravy crusts. Boet1f bouilli garni de choux. Boiled beef and cabbage. Ris de veau a la Toulouse. Sweet-bread a la Toulouse. Canards rotis. Roast ducks. Lentilles en puree. Puree of lentils. Meringues a la Chantilly. Meringues a la Chantilly. Soup. with fried gravy crusts. This soup is made exactly like " French Soup " (see 21 st of January) with this simple alteration, "Toast some crusts of bread brown, put in a saucepan, pour some uncleared stock over them and leave to simmer until the stock is dried up and the crusts are crisp." Place these crusts in your soup-tureen and pour the boiling French soup over them. Boiled beef and cabbage. Boil a piece of rump-steak in some stock ; when cooked, surround it with quarters of cabbage, sausage, and bacon, which have been separately boiled, place them alternately round the dish: Sweet-breads with white sauce. Blanch, trim, and dry your sweet-breads, put them in a sauce- pan with a little butter, sprinkle with flour, and shake them, moisten with water and cook over a slow fire; just before serving add some small onions and button mushrooms which have been cooked separately; thicken the sauce with the yellow of an egg, and flavour with lemon juice. Cauliflower with butter sauce. Break your cauliflowers into small pieces and soak in cold water with a little vinegar, blanch them by soaking in boiling water for three or four minutes, drain and trim them, boil in boiling water and salt; be careful not to overboil, as the pieces must be firm. Serve hot, pour some butter sauce (see 22nd of January) over them. 28 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. JANUARY 28. Potage aux lazagnes. Clear soup with Italian paste. Filets de soles a la Orly. Fillets of sole a la Orly. Poulet saute.'*— Brown fricassee of chicken.. _ Rosbif roti. Roast beef. Laitues au jus. Stewed lettuce. Croutes a la normande (chaudes). Fried toasts a la Normande. Clear soup with Italian paste. Prepare like the soup on the 22nd of January. Fillets of sole a la Orly. Fillet your soles and soak them in lemon juice with salt and whole black pepper. Boil the dressings of the fish in white wine, a bouquet of herbs, salt and pepper; reduce the sauce, and strain. Flour and fry the fillets, drain them, and serve with the sauce separate. Baked cauliflower with bread-crumbs. Break your cauliflower into small pieces and soak in cold water and vinegar, blanch in boiling water for two or three minutes, when cool, boil in boiling water, but keep them firm. Have some white sauce (see 31st of January) ready, to which add some grated Parmesan cheese. ,Place your pieces of cauliflower in layers in a tin dish, cover each layer with the sauce, sprinkle the. whole with grated Parmesan cheese and browned bread-crumbs, moisten with melted butter, and brown in the oven or with a salamander. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 29 JANUARY 29. Potage de consomme" aux quenelles. Clear soup with quenelles. . Truites a la Saint-Florentin. Trout a la Saint Florentin. Selle de mouton a 1'anglaise. . Roast saddle of mutton. Chapon roti. Roast capon. Petits pois au beurre (conserves). Preserved green peas. Beignets souffles. Fritters. Clear soup with quenelles. Prepare your quenelles (see $rd of September) and boil them in a little stock, drain, place in the soup-tureen, and pour the necessary quantity of stock over them. Trout a la Saint Florentin. Procure some fine trout, clean them by the gills and stuff with fresh butter, mixed with fine herbs, salt, and pepper, cook in a fish-pan with sufficient white wine to be three inches above the fish, add a crust of bread, onions, a bouquet of herbs, two heads of cloves, a little nutmeg, salt, and pepper, cook over a bright fire so that the wine may catch fire; as soon as the flames begin to subside add some butter mixed with flour. Place the fish on a dish and cover with its own sauce, passed through a tammy. Boast saddle of mutton. Hang your mutton until tender; wrap it up in buttered paper and roast; when nearly done, take off the paper so as to brown the mutton, serve with strong gravy. Hand a puree of turnips (see 13th of May) with the mutton, and a sauce made of melted butter, flavoured with chopped parsley, salt, and pepper. 3o THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. JANUARY 30. MENU EN MAIGRE. BILL OF FARE FOR FAST DAY. Potage a la pure"e de navets. Puree of turnips. Bouchees aux hu1tres. Oyster patties.^ Morue k la bechamel. Codfish, bechamel sauce. Carpes frites. Fried carp. Salade de legumes. Vegetable salad. Gateau de riz. Rice cake. Puree of turnips. Wash and scrape a pound of turnips, boil over a slow fire, in three pints of water, a quarter of a pound of butter, and half a pound of well-washed rice, be careful that the turnips do not stick to the bottom of the saucepan. When boiled pass through a tammy, and put the puree on the fire ; if too thick add a little milk. Stir with a wooden spoon, and when hot add four ounces of fresh butter and three wine-glasses of double cream, You can either hand fried toast or well-boiled rice with this pure'e. Oyster patties. Roll your puff paste six times, cut with a round tin cutter about five inches in diameter, glaze with the white of an egg, then press a smaller round cutter in the centre, enough to cut the paste slightly, this will form the cover to your patty; bake by a brisk fire, when done cut out the covers with a sharp pen- knife, be careful to leave a little paste to form the bottom of the patty. Have some oysters and.chopped button mushrooms ready, warmed in bechamel sauce (see 18th of August), fill the patties, and serve very hot. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 31 JANUARY 31. Potage puree aux croutons. Pea soup with fried toast. Gigot de mouton bouilli sauce aux Boiled leg of mutton, caper, sauce. capresy Goujons fr1ts. Fried gudgeon. Oicrfitie. Roast goose. ^, Champignons farcis. -»- Stuffed mushrooms. -~ Gelde au kirsch. Kirsch jelly. Pea soup with fried toast. For recipe see 23rd of January. Boiled leg of mutton, caper sauce. Boil your mutton in a stock-pot with water, skim it, and add carrots, onions, a bouquet of parsley, leeks, cloves, laurel leaves, and a head of garlic; simmer for two hours, drain, and serve with white caper sauce—recipe for which see below. White sauce. Mix a dessert-spoonful of flour with a little butter and half a wine-glass of water, the juice of half a lemon, salt, pepper, and a little grated nutmeg; place on a quick fire and stir, when the sauce has boiled over two or three times, take it off the fire, add the capers just before serving. Boast goose stuffed with chestnuts. Prepare your goose and stuff it with the following ingredients, minced bacon, the goose's liver, salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, and chestnuts, which have been previously cooked and peeled. Roast the goose and baste frequently. When done serve with its own gravy and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and the juice of a lemon. Fried Bread or Brioche a. la NormandB. See " Fried Bread," 24th of January, and " Stewed Fruit a la Normande " (18th of January). 32 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. FEBRUARY 1. Potage bisque d'ecrevisses. Crayfish soup. Cotes de bceuf braisees. Braised ribs of beef. Cervelles de veau en marinade. Calf's brains fried in batter. Lievre roti. Roast hare. Laitues au jus. Stewed lettuces. Omelette soufflee. Omelet souffle. Crayfish soup.' Wash fifty fine live crayfish in several waters, drain and boil in stock with some carrots and parsley. When done take the saucepan off the fire, and leave the crayfish in it for ten minutes well-covered up, after which put them in a sieve and keep the juice. When the crayfish are nearly cold, break ..off the tails of the bigger ones and reserve them, pound the bodies and the smaller crayfish in a mortar until of a thick red paste, soak a lump of bread-crumb as big as your fist in the juice, dry before the fire and pound into the paste, mix in some stock until of a proper substance, pass through a tammy into a saucepan, put on the fire, add the tails of the crayfish, and be careful not to let the soup boil, flavour with plenty of salt and a pinch of cayenne.pepper. Serve very hot. Stewed lettuces. Clean, blanch, and trim your lettuces, tie them in bunches, putting two or three together, simmer for two hours in a sauce- pan with stock, a bouquet of herbs, chopped onions, salt, and pepper, line the saucepan with buttered paper. When cooked untie the lettuces and serve with their own sauce, which must be reduced and passed through a tammy. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 33 FEBRUARY 2. Potage au vermicelle. Vermicelli soup. Merlans au gratin Baked whiting with bread-crumbs. Poulet saute. Brown fricassee of chicken. Gigot de mouton r6ti. Roast leg of mutton. Haricots ;'i la bretonne. Haricot beans k la bretonne. Pommes meringuees. Meringue of apple. Vermicelli soup. Blanch the vermicelli in boiling water for three or four minutes, let it cool, drain, and throw into boiling stock, stir for a few minutes and serve. Haricot beans a la bretonne. Mince half a pound of onions, blanch, and drain. Brown in five ounces of butter, and when a good colour add an ounce of flour, some salt and pepper, leave on the fire for five minutes ; moisten with a pint and a half of stock, and cook for twenty minutes, stirring all the time; then add a pint of haricot beans, which have been well boiled, and an ounce of butter; warm, and serve. Meringue of apple. Cut half-a-pound of fine apples into slices, and warm in a saucepan with seven ounces of butter, same quantity of sugar, when cooked pile prettily on a dish; whip the whites of four eggs to a cream, sweeten with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, cover the apples evenly with this, sprinkle with sugar and brown in a slow oven. You may flavour the white of egg with vanilla or lemon juice. 34 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. FEBRUARY 3. Potage julienne, Julienne soup. Tanches a la poulette. Stewed tench. Perdrix aux choux. Partridges with cabbage. —-Rosbif aux pommes. —Roast beef and potatoes. Ecrevisses au court-bouillon, Crayfish. Omelette au rhum. Rum omelet. Stewed tench. Wash, scale, scrape, and drain the fish. Cut into pieces, warm in fresh butter, when firm, add a tablespoon of flour and moisten with white wine ; season with salt, whole black pepper, a bouquet of herbs, add some button mushrooms and young onions; when the stew is ready, thicken the sauce with the yolk of an egg. Boiled crayfish. Boil some live crayfish in white wine or equal quantities of water and vinegar, seasoned with thyme, laurel leaves, carrots, onions, salt, and pepper; boil for half an hour, add the cray- fish, be careful they are well covered with the sauce, boil for seven or eight minutes, take off the fire and leave the crayfish in the saucepan until cold, drain and dish up with all the heads raised in the centre on a bed of fresh parsley. Vegetable salad. Boil in separate saucepans equal quantities of carrots, peas, asparagus heads, French beans, potatoes, and half the quantity of turnips; when done, drain carefully, and place in a salad bowl in separate groups with a fine head of boiled cauliflower in the centre. Cover with the following sauce. Salad sauce. Take twelve tablespoonfuls of olive oil, two of vinegar, half a teaspoonful anchovy sauce, salt, black pepper, a pinch of cayenne, and a head of garlic, stir well, and remove the garlic before pouring over the salad. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 35 FEBRUARY 4. Potage creme de riz a la peluche de Cream of rice soup with chervil. cerfeuil. Filet de mouton braise. Braised fillet of mutton. Ris^de veau a la Toulouse. Sweet-breads k la Toulouse. Cariards sauvages rotis. Roast wild duck. Salade de homard. Lobster salad. Beignets aux abricots. Apricot fritters. Cream of rice soup with chervil. Boil some rice in chicken broth for an hour, pass through a tammy, add the necessary quantity of stock, and serve, adding at the last some chopped chervil. Sweet-tread a la Toulouse. Cook the sweet-breads in Spanish sauce (see 21st of January), and garnish a la Toulouse. t G-arnish a la Toulouse. This garnish is composed of scollops of foie gras, truffles, whole mushrooms, cockscombs, and livers, and lamb's sweet- breads. The scollops are made from previously cooked foie gras ; the truffles must be boiled in glaze and white wine ; the mushrooms blanched with butter and lemon juice; the cocks- combs trimmed, washed, and boiled until they are blanched; the livers boiled, and the lamb's sweet-bread fried. All these ingredients are placed round the dish, the foie gras slightly glazed, the cockscombs, mushrooms, livers, and lamb's sweet- breads covered with veloute sauce (see 23rd of August), and the truffles strongly glazed. Lobster salad. Cut up the claws and tail of a lobster or sea crayfish, lay them on a bed of hearts of lettuce, garnish with hard-boiled eggs, anchovies, olives, capers, and fine herbs. Cover with a thick Mayonnaise sauce (see 24th of June). L> 2 36 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. FEBRUARY 5. Potage au vermicelle. Vermicelli soup. Bar sauce au capres^- . Bass, caper saucer- Abatis de dinde k la Chipolata. Stewed turkey giblets with Chipolata sausage. Filet de bceuf roti. Roast fillet of beef. Pommes de terre sautees. Fried potato chips. Biscuits au chocolat. Chocolate biscuits. Stewed giblets of Turkey with Chipolata sausage. Pick, scald, and singe the giblets, cut the necks into four pieces. Take the eyes out of the heads, cut the pinions in two, the claws in two, the gizzards into four pieces, do not use the livers unless very fresh, which is rare. Cut some lean bacon into large dice, and brown in fresh butter. Cut some turnips to about the size of a cork and brown, boil some carrots, cut? into round balls and brown with slices of onion, put these vegetables on a dish. Brown the giblets to a good colour, without burning, add some flour, stir for five minutes over the fire, moisten with equal quantities of stock and water, and a teaspoonful of brandy, stir until it boils; then add bacon, carrots, a bouquet of parsley, salt, pepper, and simmer. Half an hour before serving put in some onions, turnips, Chipolata sausage, and carefully peeled roast chestnuts. Boil for ten minutes, skim, and serve. Bass, caper sauce. Clean, wash, and drain the bass, soak for an hour in olive oil, flavoured with mixed herbs, salt, and pepper, broil and serve with caper sauce (see 3rd of May). 38 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. FEBRUARY 7. Potage au sagou. . • Sago soup. Poularde au gros sel. Fowl boiled in pig's bladder. Filets de soles a la Orly. Fillets of sole a la Ofly. Gigot de chevreuil roti. Roast leg of venison. - Puree de cardons a la creme. Puree of cardoons with cream. Petits gateaux de riz. Small rice cakes. Sago soup. Wash the sago in warm water, blanch and drain, boil in stock. When boiling take off the fire, and leave by the fire until it becomes a jelly ; add a puree of turnips to it (see I3th of May), and serve. Fowl boiled in pig's bladder. Clean and truss the fowl for boiling, blanch for a minute in boiling water, cover with slices of bacon, and put into a well scalded pig's bladder, tie it up tight so that no water may get in, and boil in a stew-pan, full of .boiling water, when sufficiently done, take the fowl out of the bladder, sprinkle the breast with plenty of bay salt, and serve. Puree of haricot beans with cream. Boil the haricot beans in salt and water, with a bouquet of herbs and onions; when cooked pass through a tammy and add either some fresh butter or cream, and season with salt and pepper. A good sauce for all roasts. Simmer a wineglass of red wine, an anchovy, a little stock, a chopped eschalot, and the juice of a lemon in a saucepan. Pass through a tammy, and mix with the gravy of your roast. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 39 FEBRUARY 8. Potage k la puree de pommes de Puree of potatoes. terre. Cabillaud sauce hollandaise. Cod, Hollandaise sauce. Jambon d'York a 1'anglaise. York ham. Brasses roties. Roast woodcock. Champignons a la bordelaise. Mushrooms k la bordelaise. Gelee au marasquin. Maraschino jelly. Puree of potatoes. Either bake or boil some fine potatoes, peel, and pass through a tammy, warm in a stew-pan with some melted butter, add salt and pepper, and milk enough to make the proper substance of a thick soup, boil, and serve with fried bread. i York ham. Cook the ham as in the recipe (see 21st of April), and serve with stewed spinach (see 16th of June). Mushrooms a la Bordelaise. Choose some big, firm, fresh mushrooms; peel, wash, and drain them, make one or two slits on the top side of the mushrooms, soak for an hour and a half in oil, salt, and pepper. Broil them, turn when half cooked, so that each side may be equally broiled. Warm the olive oil in which the mushrooms were soaked, season with finely chopped chives and parsley: dish up the mushrooms, sprinkle with a few drops of vinegar or lemon juice, and pour the hot olive oil over them. Boast teal. Roast the same as duck or duckling. Teal can be eaten on fast days. 40 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. FEBRUARY 9. Puree aux croutons. Pea soup with toast. Barbillons grilles. Broiled barbel. Cotes de bceuf braisees aux carottes. Braised ribs of beef with carrots. Cochon de lait roti. Roast sucking-pig. Macedoine de legumes en salade. Salad of mixed vegetables. Eclairs au cafe. Coffee fingers glazed with coffee. Boiled Tench. Place the tench for a moment in boiling water, scrape with knife without cutting the skin, scale and clean with care, stuff with fresh butter mixed with chopped garlic and fine herbs, broil and serve on tomato sauce flavoured with anchovy, or green sauce (see 6th of April), or sauce Robert (see 4th of March). Salad of mixed vegetables. Boil some slices of carrot and turnip in stock; other vege- tables, such as peas, French beans, asparagus heads, haricot beans, onions, and cauliflower should be boiled in salt and water. When cold and drained, arrange these vegetables prettily in a salad bowl, and dress with salad dressing (see 3rd of February), with the addition of a tablespoon of strong cold gravy. Stewed cardoons with marrow. Stew your cardoons as in the recipe (see 8th of October). Toast some slices of bread-crumb about half an inch thick, spread some previously blanched marrow on the toast, glaze with beef glaze, dish up the stewed cardoons, and garnish with the toasts. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 41 FEBRUARY 10. MENU EN MAIGRE. BILL OF FARE FOR FAST DAY. Potage julienne maigre. Julienne soup for fast day. Brochet sauce raifort. Pike, horseradish sauce. Vol-au-vent a la bechamel. Vol-au-vent of eggs, bechamel sauce. ' Darne d'esturgeon rotie. Roast fillet of sturgeon. Choux-fleurs au fromage. Cauliflower with cheese. Soupirs de nonne. Nun's sighs. Julienne soup for fast day. Prepare like Julienne soup (see 2nd of January), only use water and butter instead of stock. Vol-au-vent of eggs, bechamel sauce. Put four ounces of flour, one ounce of butter, two pints of milk, a small eschalot, a pinch of thyme, a laurel-leaf, and a tea- spoon of chopped parsley in a saucepan, and cook for twenty minutes, stirring all the time. Pass through a tammy and put in a saucepan large enough to hold twelve hard-boiled eggs, cut up in slices, put on the fire ten minutes before required, stir until it boils, take the eggs out, add five ounces of butter, which stir in well; when dissolved, place the eggs and some button mushrooms in the vol-au-vent case, and pour the sauce over them ; be careful the sauce is not too thick, if so add a little milk. Boast fillet of sturgeon. Lard the fillet with strips of well-seasoned eel, soak in white wine, salt, whole black pepper, and a pinch of spice ; roast and baste with the oil. Hand with sauce piquante (see 26th of June), only make it with water instead of stock. 42 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. FEBRUARY n. Potage au vermicelle. Vermicelli soup. Barbue sauce aux capres. Brill, caper sauce. Tete de veau a la Destiliere. Calf's head a la Destiliere. Filet de bceuf pique roti. Larded fillet of beef. Puree de pommes de terre. Puree of potatoes. Pommes garnies de croutes au Stewed apples on toast. madere. Pike, raifort sauce. Boil the pike in court-bouillon (see 18th of April), and serve with raifort sauce (see 18th of November). Calf's head a la Destiliere. Bone the calf's head, blanch the brains in boiling water with a few drops of vinegar. Cook in thin white sauce (see 16th of April) for three quarters of an hour, take off the fire and leave them in the saucepan until cold ; at the same time drain and blanch the calf s head, when cold, dry and cut it into small pieces leaving the eyes and ears whole ; boil in thin white sauce over a quick fire, then simmer for three or four hours, which is quite sufficient. Drain and arrange on a dish, cut the brains in half, and place at each end of the dish ; cut up the tongue into dice, ready to put into the sauce. Take two table- spoons of Spanish sauce fsee 22nd of August) or some thin glaze, add half a bottle Chablis, one hot chili pepper well pounded, six tablespoons of stock, and reduce; add some small rounds of pickled gherkins, the dice of lamb's tongue and some chopped button mushrooms. Pour this sauce over the calf s head. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 43 FEBRUARY 12. Potage au pain. Bread soup. Piece de bceuf garnie d'oignons Stewed beef and onions. glaces. Barnes d'alose grillees maitre Broiled slices of shad, maitre d'hotel. d'h6tel. Chapons bardes, r6tis. Roast larded capons. Betteraves a la crime. Beetroot with cream. Compote d'oranges. Orange salad. Broiled slices of shad, maitre d'hbtel. Cut the shad into slices about an inch thick, soak in olive oil, with fine herbs, salt, and pepper for an hour; broil over a slow fire, serve with maitre d'hotel sauce (see 23rd of March). Beetroot with cream. Peel and slice your beetroot, boil over a slow fire in be'chamel sauce (see 16th of August). Orange salad. Peel the oranges, prick them with a fork in several places, and soak in cold water, put them in a preserving-pan, with boiling water and some shavings of the orange peel; boil for ten minutes, change the water, and boil again until quite tender, plunge them into cold water, put sufficient refined syrup into the preserving-pan to cover the oranges, which drain well and boil in the syrup, without the peel, until quite thick. Take off the fire, pour the syrup and oranges into a deep dish ; cut the fruit into quarters when cold ; place in a dish with the shavings in the centre, pour the syrup over them. 44 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. FEBRUARY 13. Potage a la puree de marrons. Puree of chestnuts. Filets de merlans au gratin. Baked fillets of whiting with bread- crumbs. Haricot de mouton. Haricot of mutton. Jambon a la broche. Roast ham. j^pinards au jus. Stewed spinach. Souffle de riz. Rice souffle. Puree of chestnuts. Peel sixty chestnuts, scald them in boiling water, remove the inside skin, and boil in stock, when done, pass through a tammy, add sufficient stock to make the soup a proper substance, and pour over slices of fried bread. Serve very hot. Baked fillets of whiting with bread-crumbs. Line the bottom of a tin or plated dish with fish forcemeat (see 6th of April), lay your fillets on it and cover them with a layer of the same forcemeat, smooth over with the blade of a knife warmed in hot water, sprinkle with grated bread-crust, moisten with fresh melted butter and bake, when done pour some Italian sauce over it (see i3th of October). Artichokes, Italian sauce. Trim the artichokes, remove the chokes, cut into four pieces, blanch, and drain. Boil in equal quantities of white wine and stock, season with salt, pepper, lemon juice, and a little butter, when done, drain and serve, covered with Italian sauce (see 13th of October). THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 45 FEBRUARY 14. Fotage julienne. Julienne soup. Surmulet au beurre fondu. Grey mullet, melted butter. Tendrons de veau au blanc. Tendons of veal, white sauce. Gigot de mouton r6ti. Roast leg of mutton. Navets glaces au jus. Stewed turnips. Gateau d'amandes. Almond cake. Grey mullet with melted butter. Broil the mullet, and pour fresh melted butter with chopped parsley, pepper, and salt over it. Tendons of veal with white sauce. Prepare the tendons in the same way as breast of veal (see 16th of December). Stewed turnips. Peel the turnips all to one size, blanch, and drain; butter a saucepan large enough for the turnips to Jay side by side, place them on the butter and moisten with stock, flavour with salt, a little powdered sugar, and a stick of cinnamon • as soon as they begin to boil, cover with a sheet of buttered paper, take the saucepan off the fire, place it near the oven and put hot coals on the cover, when sufficiently cooked uncover the saucepan and leave the turnips until glazed; when cold place them on a dish, melt the glaze with a little stock, take out the cinnamon, and pour this sauce over the turnips. Almond cake. Mix two pints of flour with a piece of fresh butter the size of an egg, a pinch of salt, four eggs, five ounces of powdered sugar, seven ounces of well-powdered almonds; when well mixed place in a mould and bake; when done, ice the cake with pink icing sugar. 46 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. FEBRUARY 15. Potage Faubonne. Faubonne soup. Noix de veau a la chicoree. Chump of veal with chicory. Lapereau saute. Stewed rabbit. Limandes frites. . Fried dabs. Champignons farcis. Stuffed mushrooms. Creme au chocolat. Chocolate cream. Chump of veal with chicory. Make an incision half an inch deep, lengthways and across the skin of the chump; trim the other side of the veal so as to make it quite smooth and lard it; place in a stew-pan with some carrots, onions, a bouquet of parsley, and a little stock, simmer until the bottom of the saucepan is coloured, add one pound of meat, moisten with a little water and stock, cook over a slow fire with hot coals on the cover, or in the oven; when three- quarters done remove the vegetables and bouquet, which will have sufficiently flavoured the meat and would only absorb the gravy. Make a larger fire and moisten the veal with its own juice until it is glazed, which will take about half-an-hour. Take all the fat off the sauce and pass through a tammy. Make a foundation of puree of chicory or sorrel (see 23rd of December) on a dish, place the chump on it, and cover -with the sauce. Pried dabs. Scrape your fish with care, fry, and serve with fried parsley. THE 366 BILLS Of FARE. 47 FEBRUARY 16. Potage .\ la ptaree d'artichauts. Puree of artichokes. Alose a la sauce aux capres. Shad, caper sauce. Rosbif a la mode. liceuf a la mode. Caneton de Rouen r6ti. Roast duckling. Choux-fleurs en salade. Cauliflower salad. - Chartreuse de pommes. Chartreuse or apple marmalade. Puree of artichoke soup. See the recipe below for puree of bottoms of artichokes, add ufficient stock to make -a thick soup, and serve with fried lice of bread. Pin-ee of artichokes. Cut out the bottoms of the artichokes, blanch them, and re- move the chokes, boil in water with a little flour, salt, and lemon juice; when done, mash them and mix with some bechamel sauce (see 16th of August), pass through a tammy and warm in cream and fresh butter. Bceuf a la mode. Choose a tender piece of rump-steak, beat it well, lard with thick fillets of bacon, simmer over a fire for at least six hours, with trimmings of bacon, calves' feet, onions, carrots, a bouquet of mixed herbs, laurel leaves, thyme, a head of garlic, two or three heads of cloves, salt, and pepper ; cover the top of the saucepan with a cloth, so as to keep on the cover very tight. When cooked, clear the sauce of all grease, pass through a tammy, pour over the beef and serve. Boast duckling. Clean, draw, and truss your duckling, wrap up in slices of bacon, and roast. Serve with its own gravy. 48 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. FEBRUARY 17. Potage a la puree de lentilles. Puree of lentils. Pate chaud de lamproie. Hot lamprey pie. Tourne-dos a la sauce piquante. Fillets of beef with piquante sauc( Pintade rotie. Roast guinea fowl. Puree de chicoree aux 'croutons. Puree of chicory with fried bread Pouding. Plum pudding. Puree of chicory with fried bread. Trim and wash eight fine heads of chicory, cut off all the green, drain and boil for twenty minutes in boiling salt anc water, place in cold water to cool as quick as possible, drain anc dry in a cloth. Cut up into small pieces, warm in a sauce- pan with butter, salt, and pepper, stir in a little flour, moister with stock, reduce and serve, garnished with sippets of fried bread. Plum pudding. Have a pound of stoned raisins, six eggs, half a tumbler oi rum or brandy, five ounces of chopped suet, a pound of flour or cornflour, two ounces of powdered sugar or moist sugar, two tumblersful of milk, chopped citron, a pinch of grated nut- meg, stir all well together, add some bread-crumbs soaked in milk, tie up in a pudding-cloth and boil for four hours, turn the pudding occasionally. When cooked, cut up the pudding into slices, sprinkle with either rum or brandy, and set fire to it THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 49 FEBRUARY 18. Potage au pain. Bread soup. Piece de bceuf garnie de petits Roast beef with patties. pates. Canards aux navets. Stewed ducks and turnips. Terrine de foies gras. Pate of foie gras. Salade de legumes. Vegetable salad. Beignets d'oranges. Orange fritters. Curry soup with rics. Fry some slices of onions and warm in a 'stew-pan with a little curry-powder and butter, add the necessary quantity of stock; boil and pass through a tammy, pour over rice, which has been boiled in stock, and serve. Stewed duck and turnips. Truss your duck and brown in a stew-pan with some fresh butter, peel and cut some young turnips into equal sizes and brown in the same butter, stir in a little powdered sugar. Reduce some stock to a thin brown sauce, season with salt, pepper, a bouquet of parsley, chives, half a head of garlic, and laurel leaves, stew the duck in this sauce, and when half cooked add the turnips, turn the duck from time to time, and be careful not to break the turnips, cook over a slow fire. Clear the sauce of all grease, and serve. Orange fritters. Peel your oranges, cut them into quarters, remove the pips, and cover with powdered sugar; dip into batter (see 13th, of November) and fry in boiling lard, drain and dish up, sprinkled with powdered sugar. 50 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. FEBRUARY 19. Potage aux pates d'ltalie. Clear soup with Italian paste. Rougets en caisse. Red mullet in cases. Bceuf braisi garni de pommes de Braised beef and fried potatoes. terre frites. Poularde rotie. Roast fowl. Choux de Bruxelles sautes. Brussels sprouts with butter. Pommes au beurre. Stewed apples. • BriU a la Conti. Skin and clean a fresh brill, cut several slits down the back, simmer over a slow fire until cooked, in a tumblerful of olive oil, half a tumbler of stock, the same quantity of white wine, salt, pepper, and chopped herbs; drain, and dish up. Reduce two tumblersful of stock to half that quantity, season with a pinch of finely-chopped parsley, and pour over the brill Stewed apples. Peel some fine cooking apples, scoop out the cores and stew in syrup until three parts cooked, drain and leave until cold. Boil the same quantity of apples in sugar and water, seasoned with lemon peel, a stick of cinnamon, and fresh butter, when quite soft, mash up into a thick marmalade, pour into a deep dish, spread a layer of jam over it and place the apples on the top, fill them with fresh butter; sprinkle well with powdered sugar, and brown in the oven. Before serving, garnish the centre of each apple, with either a dried cherry or some jam. Lobster butter. Pound the spawn of a lobster with some fresh butter, if you have not enough spawn use a little of the red skin of the meat as the butter must be of a good red colour, pass through a fine hair sieve, and serve. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 51 FEBRUARY 20. MENU EN MAIGRE. BILL OF FARE FOR FAST DAY. Potage puree de navets a la creme. Puree of turnips with cream. Barbue marinee. Baked brill. iouchees de homard a la bechamel. Lobster patties a la bechamel. Pilets rotis. Roast pintail. Artichauts a 1'italienne. Artichokes a 1'Italienne. Gateau aux amandesl Almond cake. Baked brill. Clean your brill, make several deep cuts across the back, md soak for two hours in olive oil, seasoned with salt, pepper, chives, a laurel leaf and the juice of a lemon. Dip into melted butter, sprinkle with salt, bread-crumbs, and bake. When done dish up on a pure'e of either sorrel or tomatoes. Lobster patties. Prepare the paste the same as for oyster patties (see 3oth of January). Boil a lobster in court-bouillon (see 18th of April), chop it up very fine, warm in be'chamel sauce, add some lohster butter, and pour into the patties. Boast pintail. Cook the same as roast wild duck. Artichokes a 1'Italienne. Trim your artichokes, remove the chokes, blanch in boiling water, cut into quarters, lay in the bottom of a stew-pan and boil in white wine, butter, and lemon juice; when done, drain and dish up, covered with white Italian sauce for fast day, which is done by making it with cream instead of stock (see I3th of October). £ a 52 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. FEBRUARY 21. Potage ;\ la pure'e de haricots. Puree of haricot beans. Morue aux pommes de terre. Cod with potatoes. Noix de veau en fricandeau. Fricandeau of veal. Terrine de Nerac. Nerac pate. (Game pie from the south of France.) Choux-fleurs au gratin. Baked caul1flower with bread- • crumbs. Omelette soufflee. Omelet souffle. Cod and potatoes. Boil the cod in salt and water, when done, simmer in bechamel sauce (see i6th of August), and serve with slices of potato fried in boiling lard. Fried potatoes. Cut your potatoes into thin slices and plunge into boiling lard or butter, let it boil over two or three times, sprinkle with salt and white pepper, drain, and serve very hot. Fricandeau of veal. Choose a fine chump of veal, lard one side with thick fillets of bacon and the other side with fine ones, simmer for two or three hours in a stew-pan, with stock, salt, pepper, onions, carrots, a bouquet of herbs, two heads of cloves, trim- mings of beef and bacon, moisten occasionally with its own gravy, when done remove the veal, pass the sauce through a tammy, skim off the grease and reduce, when quite thick brown the veal in it. Dish up the fricandeau; add a little glaze and stock to the sauce, and either pour it over the veal or keep it to flavour a puree of spinach or sorrel, which must be served with the veal. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 53 FEBRUARY 22. Potage de riz au kari. Curry soup with rice. Alose grillee a 1'oseille. Broiled shad and sorrel. Poitrine de mouton braisee. Braised breast of mutton. Canard sauvage roti. Roast wild duck. CEufs farcis a la creme. Stuffed eggs with cream. Pommes en croustarde. Open apple tart. Broiled shad and sorrel. Thoroughly clean and wash your fish, make several slits down each side, and warm for a quarter of an hour in a saucepan with olive oil, salt, pepper, and a laurel leaf; fill the slits with butter mixed with finely-chopped herbs, bake in the oven, and serve on a purefe of sorrel. You can also broil it on a gridiron, in which case the slits must not be rilled with butter. Stuffed eggs with cream. Shell some hard-boiled eggs, cut them in half, lengthways; scoop out the yolks, and pound with the same quantity of butter as there are yolks, a lump of bread-crumb soaked in milk, finely-chopped parsley and chives, salt, a pinch of grated nut- meg, the same quantity of mixed spice and two or three raw yolks of egg ; when well pounded, pass through a fine sieve, spread a layer of this stuffing on a dish, fill the empty whites of egg with the remainder, and brown in the oven, pour some be'chamel sauce (see 16th of August), made with double cream, over them, and serve. 54 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. FEBRUARY 23. Potage a la crime d'orge. Puree of barley. Raie au beurre noir. Skate, black butter sauce. Poulets a la bonne femme. Chicken a la bonne femme. Rosbif a 1'anglaise. Roast beef. Pommes de terre sautees. Fried potatoes. GEufs ti la neige. Poached whites of egg. Puree of barley. Prepare the same as pure'e of rice (see 27th of February). Chickens a la bonne femme. Cut up your fowls into joints; warm four ounces of chopped carrots, and the same quantity of onions in some butter, when brown, add the pieces of fowl, season with salt, pepper, and a pinch of grated nutmeg, toss over the fire for ten minutes ; stir in two tablespoonfuls of flour and five minutes after add a tumblerful of stock, a wineglass of white wine, a bouquet of mixed herbs, and half a pound of peeled tomatoes with all the pips carefully removed. Cook over a slow fire for twenty-five minutes, add two punnets of mushrooms, peeled and cut up to the size of a florin, leave on the fire for ten minutes, take out the bouquet of herbs, season with an ounce of finely-chopped parsley, dish up the pieces of chicken in a pyramid and pour the sauce and vegetables over them. Puree of onions a la bretonne. Brown your onions over a slow fire in butter and salt, when a good colour stir in a little flour, moisten with good stock, reduce and pass through a tammy. If required for soup, some stock must be added to the puree, and fried bread handed with it. THE 366 BILLS OF fARE. 55 FEBRUARY 24. Potage julienne. Julienne soup. Truite au court-bouillon. Trout boiled in court-bouillon. Jambon d'York a. 1'anglaise. York ham. Pigeons rotis. Roast pigeons. Champignons farcis. Stuffed mushrooms. Gateau a la creme. Cream cake. Trout boiled in court-bouillon. Boil your trout in court-bouillon (see 18th of April); when done, drain and lay on a dish, on which you have placed a napkin and a bed of fresh parsley; reduce the sauce, thicken with a little flour, and hand in a sauceboat. York ham. Cook the same as roast ham (see 21st of April), and serve with stewed spinach. Braised leg of mutton. Bone a leg of mutton, leave the end of the bone, to use as a handle, lard with thick fillets of bacon, seasoned with mixed spices, salt, pepper, chopped parsley, and eschalots, tie or skewer up the mutton to its original form. Line a braising-pan with slices of beef, six carrots, and the same num- ber of onions, add the mutton, moisten with stock and half a tumblerful of brandy, season with laurel leaves, thyme, three heads of cloves, and two heads of garlic, cover with a sheet of buttered paper, and simmer for five hours with hot coals on the lid of the braising-pan; when done, drain the mutton and glaze it, serve with its own sauce passed through a tammy and cleared of all grease, or with a puree of chicory. Chocolate or coffee glaze for cakes. Boil a pound of sugar in half-a-pint of water in a preserving- pan ; when a thick syrup, stir in either some powdered chocolate dissolved in a little water, or some strong coffee; glaze your biscuits or cake with this, and place in the meat-screen until set. S6 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. FEBRUARY 25. Potage aux choux. Cabbage soup. Petit sale aux choux. Salt pork and cabbage. Langue de veau sauce tomates. Calf s tongue, tomato sauce. Pluviers ou vanneaux rotis. Roast plover or lapwings. Cardons a la moelle. Stewed cardoons and marrow. 'Madeleines. Madeleine cakes. Cabbage soup. Boil a piece of salt pork in water for an hour; add a blanched cabbage cut into quarters, carrots, turnips, leeks, celery, an onion stuck with a head of clove, pepper, and a saveloy, simmer over a slow fire for four hours ; when ready to serve, pour the soup over slices of bread in a soup-tureen, hand the vegetables and pork in a separate dish. Salt pork and cabbage. See above for recipe. Calf's tongue with tomato sauce. Trim and scald your tongue, and leave until cold ; lard it with fillets of bacon well seasoned with mixed spice and chopped herbs, simmer in a stew-pan for four hours, in stock seasoned with a bouquet of mixed herbs, two carrots, two onions, and three heads of cloves; when done, split the tongue in half, skin it and serve, covered with tomato sauce. Boast plover. T.hese birds must never be drawn, but wrapped up in slices of bacon and roasted. Lay some pieces of toast in the dripping. pan, and serve the plover on them. Puree of chicory with cream. Prepare the same as puree of chicory (see I7th of February), but before serving stir in some cream, a lump of fresh butter, and a little flour. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 57 FEBRUARY 26. Potage puree de pois au riz. Puree of peas with rice. Brandade de morue. Cream of salt cod. Aloyau braise a la royale. Braised sirloin of beef a la royale. Poulet roti. Roast chickens. Artichauts frits. Fried artichokes. Biscuit glace au chocolat. Savoy cake glazed with chocolate. Puree of peas with rice. Make a pure'e of peas (see 23rd of January), when your soup is ready to serve, add some boiled rice to it. Pickled cabbage with oysters. Soak the pickled cabbage in boiling water for ten minutes, drain and dry in a cloth. Boil, in stock, a little dripping and coarse black pepper; when cooked, arrange round a dish, and fill the centre with stewed oysters (see 8th of April). Braised sirloin of beef a la royale. Bone your sirloin and roll it; lard with plenty of fillets of bacon, place in a braising-pan and braise (see 28th of May) ; as soon as it boils, make a smaller fire and simmer for four hours; take out the beef and reduce the sauce to a glaze, pass through a tammy and skim off all grease. Warm the beef in this sauce, and serve covered with it. Sweet spinach. Cook your spinach in fresh butter ; when done, stir in some pounded maccaroons, sugar, grated lemon-peel, and a pinch of salt. Hand sponge fingers with this dish. Savoy or sponge cake glazed with chocolate. Make a Savoy cake (see I3th of August), and glaze with chocolate (see 24th of February). 5 8 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. FEBRUARY 27. Potage a la puree d'oignons bretonne. Puree of onions a la bretonne. Quartier d'agneau farci. Stuffed forequarter of lamb. Oie en daube. Cold braised goose. Goujons frits. Fried gudgeon. Asperges en branche. Boiled asparagus. Flan de creme a la frangipane. Marrow frangipane tart. Puree of rice. Boil some rice in chicken broth for an hour, pass through a tammy, add the necessary quantity of stock, season with salt and pepper, warm and serve with dice of fried bread. Cold braised goose. Truss your goose for boiling, and cover it with slices of bacon well seasoned with finely-chopped parsley, .chives, eschalots, half a head of garlic, thyme, sage, pepper, and a pinch of grated nutmeg, Peel some roasted chestnuts, warm them in fresh butter, and fill the goose with them; line a braising-pan with slices of bacon, put in the goose, cover with more bacon, and moisten with equal quantities of water, stock, and white wine ; surround the goose with pieces of knuckle of veal, four carrots, four onions, four heads of cloves, a parsnip, whole black peppers, mixed spices, and a bouquet of herbs. Simmer for four hours; when done, place the goose on a dish; skim all grease off the sauce, pass it through a tammy, reduce, and leave until cold, when it will become a jelly; garnish the goose with it, and serve. Marrow frangipane tart. See 4th of December. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 59 FEBRUARY 28. Potage aux laitues. Lettuce soup. Maquereaux bouillis. Boiled mackerel. Cotelettes de mouton a la jardiniere. Mutton cutlets a la jardiniere. Canetons de Rouen rotis. Roast duckling. Laitue a la flamande. Stuffed lettuce. Gateau de pistaches. Pistachio cake. Lettuce soup. Blanch your lettuces and drain them, simmer over a slow- fire in a little stock, and leave until they have absorbed all the liquid, after which add the required quantity of soup, and when hot pour into a soup-tureen, on slices of bread. Mutton cutlets a la jardiniere. Trim the cutlets, melt some fresh butter in a shallow sauce- pan, add the cutlets, and season with salt, pepper, and a pinch of grated nutmeg, when done on one side, turn the cutlets ; as soon as they are thoroughly cooked, arrange them round an entre'e dish, and garnish the centre with the following vege- tables : Take some button mushrooms, french beans, green peas, young carrots, and turnips, cut into small balls, and boil in stock ; moisten some brown thickening with stock and simmer the vegetables in it until the sauce is quite thick ; place a fine white head of boiled cauliflower in the centre of the cutlets, and surround with these vegetables. Vegetable salad and smoked salmon. Prepare the same way as Russian salad (see 313t of October), leaving out the partridge and chicken. 60 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. FEBRUARY 29. MENU EN MAIGRE. BILL OF FARE FOR FAST DAY. Puree de pois verts au riz. Pure"e of green peas and rice. Cabillaud a la hollandaise. Cod a la hollandaise. Choucroute aux huttres. Pickled cabbage and oysters. Ecrevisses en buisson. Crayfish. Salade de legumes garnie de saumon Vegetable salad with smoked sal- fume. mon. Blanc-manger. Blanc-mange. Puree of haricot beans. Prepare the same aspure'e of haricot beans (see 2nd of July), but for fast days use cream or milk instead of stock. Blanc-mange of almonds. Blanch one pound of sweet almonds and half an ounce of bitter almonds, soak in cold water, so as to make them per- fectly white, pound in a mortar and moisten gradually with two pints of milk, squeeze through a cloth into a bowl. Dissolve two ounces of gelatine and three quarters of a pound of sugar in a pint and a half of water, when cold add to the milk of almonds, flavour with a little orange-flower water, pour into a mould and place in the refrigerator for two hours, by which time it will have set. Mushrooms on toast. Peel your mushrooms and place in a saucepan with a lump of fresh butter, chopped parsley and chives, salt, black pepper, a pinch of grated nutmeg and some stock, toss them until cooked. Butter some round slices of crust of bread, toast them, and place on a dish. Thicken the sauce of the mush- rooms with yolks of egg, squeeze some lemon juice over them, and dish up on the pieces of toast. Tff£ 366 BILLS OF FARE. 61 MARCH 1. Potage a la puree de lentilles. Pure'e of lentils. Carpe a 1'etuve'e. Stewed carp. Cote de bceuf braisee au macaroni. Braised ribs of beef with maccaroni. Accolade de lapereaux rotis. Brace of young rabbits roasted. Artichauts a la bonne femme. Artichokes a la bonne femme. Tartelettes de pommes. Apple tartlets. Stewed carp. Warm some fresh butter, a pinch of flour, and a few young onions in a stew-pan ; when brown, add your carp cut into thick slices, moisten with stock and red wine, and season with butter, parsley, chives, eschalots, thyme, laurel leaves, mush- rooms, a pinch of grated nutmeg, and young onions, stew over a quick fire, and serve, garnished with fried sippets of bread. Braised ribs of beef with maccaroni. Bone and roll the ribs of beef, and braise with white wine (see z8th of May); when cooked, remove the beef, pass the sauce through a tammy, skim off all fat, pour into a sauceboat, and add the remaining half to some boiled maccaroni, season with salt, pepper, a lump of fresh butter, and grated Parmesan or Gruyere cheese ; place on a dish, and lay the ribs of beef on it. Artichokes a la bonne femme. Trim the artichokes, and boil in boiling salt and water; when done, plunge them into cold water, cut out the chokes and warm them in boiling water, drain, and dish up, well-covered with white sauce (see 23rd of August). 62 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. MARCH 2. Potage brunoise aux pStes d'ltalie. Brunoise soup with Italian paste. Chateaubriand grille. Broiled fillets of beef \ la Chateau- briand. Croquettes de poisson. Fish croquettes. Pate de foies gras Plte" of foie gras. Asperges en branches. Asparagus. Chartreuse de pommes. Apple chartreuse or marmalade. Broiled fillets of beef a la Chateaubriand. Cut your fillets at least two inches thick, soak in oil for an hour, and broil. Serve with Chateaubriand sauce (see 21st of March), and garnish with fried potatoes and truffles. Apple chartreuse or marmalade. Peel twenty fine cooking apples, scoop out the cores, cut them in half and slice them, boil a third of them in water, sugar, and a pinch of saffron, drain, and boil the other third with cochineal, and the remainder in plain sugar and water, line a mouM with buttered paper, stick some thin strips of angelica round the sides in any pattern you may fancy, place the different coloured slices of apple in rings round the mould and fill the centre with a marmalade made from the apple trimmings, turn out of the mould, and serve. If a white chartreuse is preferred, the apples must be soaked in lemon juice and water before being cooked. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 63 MARCH 3. Consomme aux profiteroles. Clear soup with profit rolls. Brochet sauce aux capres. Pike with caper sauce. Chou farci. Stuffed cabbatre. Selle de mouton rotie. Roast saddle of mutton. Pure'e de haricots. Puree of haricot beans. Omelette souffle'e. Omelet souffle". Stuffed cabbage. Choose a large white, close cabbage, take o'ff all the hard green outside leaves, and blanch it; cut out the heart and press between two plates to squeeze out all water. Make a stuffing with finely-minced sausage-meat, four yolks of egg and marrow, mix well together and spread a teaspoonful between each leaf, tie up the cabbage to its original shape—t1e careful not to cut the leaves with the string—simmer over a slow fire in stock, season with a bouquet of herbs, onions, a saveloy, carrots, a pinch of grated nutmeg, salt, and black pepper, cover the whole with slices of bacon ; shake the stew-pan occasionally so that the cabbage may not stick to the bottom and get burnt. Dish up the cabbage after cutting off the string. Pass the sauce through a tammy, clear of all grease, stir in a little thin browning, and pour over the cabbage. 64 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. MARCH 4. Potage a la francaise. French soup. Bceuf bouilli sauce Robert. Boiled beef with Robert sauce. Poularde en entree de broche. Roast fowl with tomato sauce. Carpes frites. Fried carp. Choux de Bruxelles au beurre. Brussels sprouts with butter. Biscuit glace' au chocolat. Savoy or sponge cake glazed with chocolate. Robert sauce. Brown some slices of onion in butter, and add a little flour. Moisten with stock, white wine, and a few drops of vinegar, boil for half an hour, skim off all grease, season with salt and pepper, stir in a teaspoonful of mustard, and serve. Boast fowl with tomato sauce. Choose a fine fowl, stuff it with butter mixed with the juice of a lemon and a little salt, truss as if for boiling. Rub the breast with lemon juice, sprinkle with salt and pepper, lay slices of lemon on it, with no peel or pips, wrap up in slices of bacon and a buttered sheet of paper, roast on the spit with the back of the fowl nearest the fire ; it will take about an hour to cook; remove the bacon, &c., and serve with tomato sauce. Brill, bechamel sauce. Cook a brill in salt and water over a slow fire; do not let it boil, or the fish will break ; drain it, and serve with bechamel sauce (see 16th of August) in a sauceboat. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 65 MARCH 5. Potage branoise. Brunoise soup. Alose a la hollandaise. Boiled shad, Hollandaise sauce. Pigeons en ragout d'ecrevisses. Stetoed pigeons and crayfish. Rosbif en broche. Roast beef. Salsifis frits. Fried salsifis. Meringues a la creme. Meringues with cream. Boiled shad, Hollandaise sauce. Clean out the shad by the gills, but do not scale it. Boil in salt and water, when quite boiling make a smaller fire and simmer for half-an-hour. Dish up, garnished with fresh parsley and boiled potatoes. Hand some Hollandaise sauce separately. Stewed pigeons with crayfish. Blanch your pigeons and beat the backs so as to spread out the breasts, boil in equal quantities of stock and white wine, and season with salt and pepper, a bouquet of parsley, chives, and two heads of cloves; when done take them out of the stew- pan and cook some mushrooms, twelve shelled crayfish, and a little flour in the sauce of the pigeons, boil for half an hour, reduce and thicken the sauce with yolks of egg and cream, season with finely-chopped parsley and a pinch of grated nut-' meg, pour over the pigeons, and serve, garnished with the heads of the crayfish. 66 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. MARCH 6. Potage au vermicelle. Vermicelli soup. Filets de soles a 1'italienne. Fillets of sole, Italian sauce. Pluviers rotis en entree de broche. Roast plover with stewed mush- rooms. Rognon de veau roti. Roast calf s kidney. Asperges a la sauce blanche. Asparagus with white sauce. Souffle de riz. Rice souffle'. Roast plover with stewed mushrooms. Choose some young fat golden plover; chop up the trail with parsley, eschalots, salt, pepper, and scraped bacon, stuff the plover with it, cover with slices of bacon and buttered sheets of paper, and roast. When done, serve on stewed mushrooms (see 27th of November). Asparagus with white sauce. Scrape and wash some fine heads of asparagus, tie them up into small bundles, cook in boiling salt and water, take off the fire before the asparagus becomes too soft, serve with white sauce, handed separately. Bice souffle. Boil seven ounces of rice flour in a pint of milk with a little sugar and some pounded maccaroons, stir until it becomes a thick smooth paste, flavour with vanilla or lemon, add four or five yolks of egg, whip up the whites of the eggs and stir them in, pour into a souffle dish, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and bake in a moderate oven. A potato souffle' is pre- pared in the same manner, only potato flour is used instead of rice. THE .366 BILLS OF FARE. 67 MARCH 7. Potage paysanne. Peasant soup Lamproie a 1'italienne. . Lampreys a 1'italienne. Culotte de bceuf braisee. Braised rump-steak. VolaiUe rotie. Roast fowl. Pommes de terre a 1'anglaise. Potatoes a 1'anglaise. Creme a la vanille. Vanilla cream. Lamprey a 1'Italienne. Fillet a fine lamprey and stew in a tumblerful of white wine, a wine-glass of olive oil, chopped young onions, mixed herbs and four heads of garlic, when boiling add the juice of a lemon, and reduce the sauce. The garlic can be omitted if not liked. Potatoes a I'Anglaise. Peel your potatoes and boil in salt and water. Melt a lump of fresh butter in a saucepan, slice the potatoes, warm in the butter, season with salt and pepper, and serve.. Do not let the butter clarify. Flemish garnish. This garnish is composed of knuckle of ham, bacon, sausages, german sausage, carrots, turnips, and glazed onions. The larger part of the garnish is composed of well boiled white cabbages, which have been thoroughly dried in a saucepan ; brussels sprouts can also be used. This is an excellent garnish for a rump-steak, a fillet of beef, or a roast ham. F 2 68 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. MARCH 8. Potage de riz Creey. Puree of carrot and rice. Gigot bouilli sauce. aux capres. Boiled leg of mutton, caper sauce. Anguille a 1'anglaise. Eel a 1'anglaise. Vanneaux r6tis. Roast lapwings. Ce"leri-rave a la demi-glace. Glazed celery roots. Beignets de pommes a la d'Orleans. Apple fritters a la d'Orleans. Eel, English fashion. Soak some thick slices of eel for twenty-four hours in vinegar, salt, pepper, and the peel of two or three lemons ; dry them in a cloth and either roll in some very thin paste or dip into batter, fry until a good colour. Reduce some stock until thick, add the juice of a lemon, stir in some anchovy, and hand in a sauceboat with the fried eel. Boast lapwings. Do not draw your lapwings, wrap them up in slices of bacon and a buttered sheet of paper; lay some slice of fried bread in the dripping-pan, roast the birds and serve on bread. Lap- wing's eggs are very excellent to eat and difficult to procure. Apple fritters a la d'Orleans. Roll out some brioche paste (see 24th of December), peel and scoop out the cores of some cooking apples, cut them in half, stew in syrup, drain and leave until cold. Roll each piece in some of the paste, and plunge into boiling lard. Skate with black butter sauce. Boil the skate in salt and water, place. in a dish, and cover with black butter sauce. Garnish with pickled gherkins and fried parsley. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 69 MARCH 9. Potage Cond& Conde soup. Carpe garnie d'un ragout de lait- Carp with stewed roe. ances. Jambon a la choucroute. Ham and pickled cabbage. Caneton de Rouen roti. Roast duckling. Artichauts frits. Fried artichokes. Tartelettes a la vanille. Vanilla tartlets. Fried artlchokes. Cut your artichokes into slices lengthways, remove the chokes, cut off the tops of the leaves, trim the bottoms, wash them in vinegar and water, drain them and dip into a thin paste, made of eggs, flour,-cream, pepper, salt, and half a wine- glass of brandy ; fry in either olive oil or lard ; serve garnished with fried parsley and sprinkled with salt. Vanilla tartlets. Pound five ounces of Jordan almonds and the same quantity of sugar in a mortar, add one ounce of powdered sugar and some vanilla sugar. Whip up six whites of egg, add the almonds and sugar ; line your tartlet-pans with some light paste and fill with the whipped eggs, bake in a slow oven, glaze with some white sugar, and serve either hot or cold. 70 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. MARCH 10. MENU EN MAIORE. BILL OF FARE FOR FAST DAY. Potage a la Monaco. White soup a la Monaco. Alose grillee a 1'oseille. Broiled shad and sorrel. Salmis de pilets. Salmis of pintail. Brochet farci et r6ti. Stuffed roast pike. CEufs a la tripe. Eggs a la tr1pe. Gateau de riz. Rice cake. White soup a la Monaco. Cut up some bread into slices, sprinkle with powdered sugar, toast and place them in a soup-tureen, sprinkle with salt; pour some boiling cream or milk, thickened with yolks of egg, over the toast, and serve. Broiled shad with sorrel. Soak your shad for an hour in olive oil, seasoned with mixed herbs, salt, and pepper. Broil on the gridiron, moisten with the oil in which it was soaked, and serve on a puree of sorrel (see 23rd of December). Stuffed roast pike. Keep your pike for two days after catching; scale, draw it, and lard with fillets of anchovies and gherkins, and stuff with egg stuffing (see 16th of December). Spread some branches of mixed herbs, sprinkled with mixed spice and salt, on a large sheet of buttered paper, in which wrap the pike, fasten it on with skewers and roast, baste with white wine and melted butter. Serve with thick piquante sauce (see 26th of June). Nun's sighs. Warm a lump of butter the size of a walnut, a lump of sugar, a little lemon-peel, and a pinch of salt in a tumblerful of water, let it boil over two or three times ; stir in some flour until it becomes a thick paste, and continue stirring until it is cooked, which you can tell, if the paste does not stick to your finger; leave in the saucepan until cold, then stir in one egg at a time until it is thin enough to drop out of a spoon. Take a dessert spoon and drop lumps of the paste about the size of a walnut into lard which is not quite boiling, take out when swollen to four times their original size and of a golden colour. Sprinkle with sugar and serve hot; they are also very nice cold. The flavouring can be varied by omitting the lemon-peel and stirring in a little orange-flower water with the first egg. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 71 MARCH 11. Consomme aux croutes grillees. Soup with baked bread-crusts. Poule au pot. Fowl bo1led in stock. Saute de lapereaux. Young rabbits fried. Rosbif roti. Roast beef. Choux-fleurs gratines au Parmesan. Baked cauliflowers with Parmesan cheese. Creme au chocolat. Chocolate cream. Fowl boiled in stock. Cook your fowl in uncleared stock after the vegetables have been put in (see 1st of July), simmer until sufficiently done, serve sprinkled with coarse salt, and hand some bourgeoise sauce in a sauceboat. Young rabbits fried. Cut up your rabbits into joints, soak in water and dry in a cloth to remove all blood, warm some butter seasoned with mixed spices, salt, and pepper in a frying-pan, toss the pieces of rabbit in it until quite firm, sprinkle with chopped parsley and eschalots, leave on the fire for a few minutes, and serve. Only very young rabbits can be used for this dish. Chocolate cream. Stir two ounces of powdered sugar into a pint of double cream, boil until reduced to about half the quantity; when cold, add the yolks of three eggs, and two ounces of finely-grated chocolate ; cook in a bain-marie ; when done, pour'into a glass dish, and serve cold. Chocolate fingers with cream. Make some paste, the same as for nun's sighs (see loth of March), only keep it thick enough to roll out and cut into the shape of ladies' fingers ; bake in the oven, glaze with chocolate (see 24th of February), and fill with chocolate cream. 72 1 . THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. MARCH 12. Potage au tapioca. Tapioca soup. Cabillaud a la hollandaise. Cod a la hollandaise. Poularde a la bourgeoise. Boiled fowl, bourgeoise sauce. Gigot d'agneau roti. Roast leg of lamb. Champignons au gratin. Baked mushrooms. Gateau de semoule a la creme. Semolina cake with cream. Cod a la Hollandaise. Clean out your cod, fill it with coarse salt, rub the sides and sprinkle them with fine salt, and leave in a cool place for three or four hours. Two hours before cooking it, wash the cod, make several slits down the back, tie a string round the head, and soak in milk and water. Boil in boiling salt and water, add two pints of boiling milk, and lekve on the. fire for three-quarters of an hour, if a very large fish it will take a little longer to cook. When done dish up on a napkin, garnished with boiled potatoes and fresh parsley. Melt some fresh butter in a bain-marie, season with salt, pepper, a pinch of mixed spice, and the juice of a lemon; hand in a sauceboat with the cod. Garnish a la G-odard. This is used chiefly for garnishing roast turkeys, fat pullets or a fillet of beef. Boil some large truffles, cockscombs and sweet- breads larded with fillets of truffles in stock, season with salt and pepper, cook some large quenelles (see 3rd of September) in the same stock and garnish your dish. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 73 MARCH 13. Potage au macaroni avec Parmesan. Maccaroni soup with Parmesan cheese. Epaule de mouton en ballon aux Braised shoulder of mutton and oignons glaces. glazed onions. Poulet a la chasseur. Grilled chicken a la Chasseur. Pate de saumon, ou poissons frits. Salmon pie or fried fish. Salade de pommes de terre. Potato salad. Eclairs aux ceufs. Chocolate f1ngers with cream. Braised shoulder of mutton and glazed onions. Bone your shoulder of mutton, leaving the stump to use as a handle, lard with bacon well seasoned with chopped herbs, salt, and pepper, roll the mutton into the shape of a balloon, and sew together with a trussing-needle. Line a braising-pan with slices of bacon, put in the shoulder of mutton, add the shoulder-bone, some carrots, onions, two heads of cloves, laurel-leaves, thyme, and some stock; cover with slices of bacon and a buttered sheet of paper, and*simmer over a slow fire. When done, cut the string with which it has been sewn to- gether, and dish up, garnished with glazed onions (see 14th of January). Grilled chicken a la Chasseur. If possible procure some young chickens for this dish, split them down the back and beat until flat; if you have large fowls, they must be cut up into joints. Soak for an hour in olive oil, seasoned with salt, pepper, slices of onion, parsley, and lemon juice ; bread-crumb lightly, and grill on a gridiron; if cut up into joints, dish up in a pyramid. Add some slices of fried onion and chopped ham to some Madeira sauce (see i gth of August), and pour over the grilled chicken. 74 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. MARCH 14. Potage crime de riz a la peluche de Puree of rice with chervil. cerfeuil. Esturgeon au court-bouillon. Stewed sturgeon. Langue de bceuf au gratin. Baked ox-tongue. Canards sauvage rotis. Roast wild duck. Asperges a 1'huile. Asparagus with oil and vinegar. Omelette au rhum. Rum omelet. Stewed sturgeon. Choose either a small sturgeon, or have a slice from a large one, boil in court-bouillon (see 18th of April), cover the lid of the saucepan with hot coals, moisten the fish occasionally with the sauce in which it is boiling, and serve with Italian sauce, to which add some of the fish liquor reduced, and a pinch of cayenne pepper. Baked ox-tongue. Trim your tongue and braise it (see 28th of May); when cooked, skin it, and leave until cold. Cut it up into thick slices. Pound the crumb of a stale loaf in a mortar, with some chopped parsley, chives, three eschalots, a few tarragon- leaves, capers, an anchovy, and fresh butter, cover the bottom of a plated or tin dish with half of this stuffing, lay the slices of tongue on it, and cover with the remaining half; sprinkle with a little melted butter and stock, and bake, serve when a good colour. Asparagus with oil and vinegar. Cook the same as asparagus (see 6th of March), but hand oil and vinegar with it, instead of white sauce. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 75 MARCH 15. Potage a la parisienne. Parisian soup. Bceuf a la mode. Bceuf a la mode. Pluviers en salmis. Salmis of plover. Alose rotie. Roast shad. Petits pois nouveaux a 1'anglaise. Green peas a 1'anglaise. Crepes. Pancakes. Boast shad. You must have a fine, fat shad to be able to cook it in this manner. Clean and scale your fish, make several slits down the sides, do not cut too deep, and soak for an hour in olive oil, season with salt, pepper, parsley, chives, and thyme; turn the fish several times whilst soaking, roast, and baste it with the olive oil. Dish up on a napkin, and garnish with fresh parsley. The best manner to carve such a large fish is to make a deep incision down the back from head to tail, and then to cut off slices down the side ; ten good helpings ought to be cut off a shad twenty-five inches long without touching the inferior parts of the fish. Cut off the fins before serving. The roe of the sturgeon is excellent. Fillets of sole with Italian sauce. Fry the fillets' in hot melted butter, when done, cover with Italian sauce (see 13th of October). Tartare sauce. Take three tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce (see 16th of . August), stir in a bowl with two yolks of egg, a little salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg ; when well mixed, add some olive oil, drop by drop, until the sauce is quite thick, flavour with a few drops of tarragon, add a little finely-chopped chervil, tarragon, and eschalot. Serve in a sauceboat. 76 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. MARCH 16. Potage aux pates d'ltalie. Clear soup with Italian paste. Carrelets grilles. Broiled plaice. Aloyau a la Godard. Sirloin of beef a la Godard. Volaille rotie. Roast fowl. Celeri au jus. Stewed celery. Parfait au cafe. Coffee blanc-mange. Broiled plaice. Clean and wash your fish, dip into olive oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, place a mat of straw reeds, like those used for cream cheeses, on the gridiron, broil the fish on it over a slow fire ; when done, cover with caper sauce (see 3rd of May). Sirloin of beef a la Godard. Trim and bone your sirloin, roll the topside and tie round with string, put it in a braising-pan and braise (see 2 8th of May). When the beef is cooked, place it on a dish, pass the vegetables and sauce through a tammy, skim off all grease and warm in a saucepan with a little stock, sliced sweet-breads, some bottoms of artichoke's cut into quarters, button mushrooms, and add at the last some fried eggs. Garnish the beef with it, and serve. Cream quenelles. Warm a lump of butter the size of a walnut, a pinch of black pepper, some grated nutmeg, and a tumblerful of cream, let it boil over two or three times, stir in some flour until it becomes a thick paste, leave until cold, add one egg at a time until the paste is thin enough to drop out of a spoon, take a teaspoonful at a time of the paste and drop into boiling water. When poached the quenelles will be ready to serve. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 77 MARCH 17. Consomme' aux quenelles. Clear soup with quenelles. Truite a la Chambord. Trout a la Chambord. Lapereau en papillote. Broiled young rabbits in cases. Selle d'agneau roti, cresson. Roast saddle of lamb and water- cresses. Epinards au veloute". Spinach with veloute sauce. Tourte a la creme d'amandes. Open tart with almond cream. Trout a la Chambord. Plunge the trout into boiling water and skin them, after •which wash them thoroughly in several waters, drain, and cook in wine marinade sauce (see 3rd of December), when done, drain and place on a dish. Cook some larded sweet- breads, fish quenelles, and crayfish in financiere sauce (see 2 7th of December), and garnish.the trout with them. Broiled young' rabbits in cases. Cut up the rabbits into joints, remove all the larger bones, and cover each piece with the following stuffing: take some stale grated bread-crumb, scraped bacon, finely-chopped parsley, eschalots, mushrooms, salt, pepper, and a head of garlic, mix well together. Cover each piece with a slice of bacon, and wrap up in a case of buttered paper, broil over a slow fire, and serve in the cases. Boast saddle of lamb. Roll and skewer the flanks of the saddle, wrap it up in buttered sheets of paper, roast for an hour and a half, baste frequently, and serve with its own gravy. 78 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. MARCH 18. Potage au pain. Bread soup. Piece de bceuf sauce tomates. Braised beef with tomato sauce. Anguille au soleil. Fried eel. Pintades rftties. Roast guinea fowl. Petits pois au beurre. Green peas and butter. Meringues a la creme. Meringues with cream. Fried eel. Cut an eel into thick slices, and boil in marinade sauce (see 3rd of December); when cold, drain it, bread-crumb and dip into eggs beaten up with salt and pepper, fry the pieces of eel, and serve, covered with ravigote sauce (see 2 gth of May). Meringues with cream. Whip up twelve whites of eggs with an egg-whisk until a thick cream; stir in a pound of sifted sugar, flavour with either essence of vanilla or lirne juice, lay some sheets of paper on a slab of wood, take a table-spoonful at a time of the whipped egg, drop on the paper in an oval shape, smooth the surface by drawing the spoon quickly over it, sprinkle with sifted sugar, and bake in a slow oven until a golden colour. When done take the meringues carefully off the paper, scoop out the centres with a spoon, place them in a sieve, and dry in the oven. Just before serving, fill the merin- gues with whipped cream, flavoured with either vanilla or lemon juice and a little powdered sugar, join two halves together, and dish up in a pyramid. Garnish a la financiers. This garnish is composed of fat goose's liver, kidneys, cocks- combs, truffles, and quenelles of fowl, all cooked in Spanish sauce (see 3rd of November), with the addition of a wine- glassful of sherry; and is mostly used for garnishing fat pullets, fowls, or fillets of beef. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 79 MARCH 19. Consomme" aux ceufs poches. Clear soup with poached eggs. Tanches au court-bouillon. Tench boiled in court-bouillon. Tendrons d'agneau aux pointes Braised breasts of lamb and d'asperges. asparagus. Rosbif a 1'anglaise. Roast beef. Pommes de terre sautees. Fried potatoes. Creme d'araandes. Almond cream. Tench boiled in court-bouillon. Scale and clean your tench, and boil in court-bouillon (see 18th of April); when done, serve with white caper sauce in a sauceboat. Braised breasts of lamb and asparagus. Put two breasts of lamb in a braising-pan, and braise them (see 28th of May); when cooked, leave in the braising-pan until cold; cut them up into pieces, and cook in a stew-pan with some clear stock, leave on the fire until reduced to a glaze. Dish up with a fried slice of bread between each piece of lamb, and garnish the centre of the dish with stewed asparagus (see 28th of April). Almond cream. Blanch three ounces of Jordan almonds, three bitter almonds, and pound them ; stir into a pint of boiling cream, pass through a hair sieve, and add three yolks of egg, three ounces of powdered sugar, and a little orange-flower water; cook in a bain-marie; when done, pour into a glass dish, and serve-cold, garnished with burnt almonds. Garnish a la Chipolata. This garnish is composed of Chipolata sausages, lean bacon, peeled roast chestnuts, carrots cut into small round balls, and button mushrooms, cooked in Spanish sauce (see 3rd of November). 8o THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. MARCH 20. MENU EN MAIGRE. BILL OF FARE FOR FAST DAY. Julienne maigre. Julienne soup for fast day. Truite sauce genevoise. Trout, Geneva sauce. Macaroni en timbale. Timbale of maccaroni. Sarcelles roties. Roast teal. Haricots rouges a la bourguignonne. Red haricot beans a la bourgui- gnonne. Gateau de riz au caramel. Rice cake with burnt sugar. Timbale of maccaroni. Boil your maccaroni in salt and water, when done, drain, and season with pepper, fresh butter, and equal quantities of grated Parmesan and Gruyere cheese. Line a mould with some short paste rolled out very thin, fill with the maccaroni, cover with paste, and lay a sheet of buttered paper over it to prevent the paste getting burnt, bake in a moderate oven for three quarters of an hour, or longer if it is a very large mould; when cooked, turn it out of the mould and serve very hot. Bed haricot beans a la bourguignomie. Boil some red haricot beans in the stock of julienne for fast days (see 3oth of June), add a lump of butter, a bouquet of mixed herbs, and an onion stuck with cloves. When quite cooked, remove the onion and bouquet of herbs, and stir in a little red wine, salt, and pepper. Serve hot. Semolina quenelles. Stir five yolks of egg, six ounces of fine semolina, salt and a pinch of grated nutmeg into six ounces of fresh butter. Take a dessert-spoonful at a time of this paste and poach in boiling water, when the quenelles will be ready for use. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. Si MARCH 21. Potage Crecy. Puree of carrots. Bar a 1'eau de sel. Boiled bass. Cotelettes de pore frais grillees, Pork cutlets with poivrade sauce. sauce poivrade. Dinderfitie. Roast turkey-hen. Asperges en branches. Asparagus. Pains de la Mecque. Mecca loaves. Boiled bass. Clean, scrape, and wash your fish, drain it, and cook in warm salt and water; as soon as it boils, take the fish-pan off the fire and place it near enough to the fire for the water to simmer for twenty minutes, leave the fish in its liquor until time to serve it. Dish up on a napkin, garnished with fresh parsley and boiled potatoes. Poivrade sauce. Take a tumblerful of vinegar, a quarter of an ounce of laurel- leaves, the same quantity of thyme and onion, one ounce of chopped parsley, one ounce of chopped eschalot, salt, and pepper, simmer in a saucepan until reduced, but do not let it burn; stir in an ounce of butter, a teaspoonful of flour, and some stock, continue stirring for a quarter of an hour, with a wooden spoon, take off the fire, and serve. Chateaubriand sauce. Melt some meat glaze in a - little white wine, stir in some Spanish sauce (see 3rd of November), and when time to serve thicken with maitre d'hotel sauce (see 23rd of March). 82 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. MARCH 22. Potage puree de pommes de terre a Puree of potatoes with chervil. la peluche de cerfeuil. Alose a la hollandaise. Boiled shad, hollandaise sauce. Cotelettes de mouton aux pointes Mutton cutlets with asparagus. d'asperges. Becassines roties. Roast snipe. Artichauts a la barigoule. Stuffed artichokes a la barigoule. Biscuit au beurre. Butter biscuits. Puree of rice with chervil. Make a pure'e of rice (see 27th of February), stir in the necessary quantity of stock, and two teaspoonsful of chopped chervil. Leg of mutton a la Provencale. Hang a leg of mutton until very tender; lard it with fillets of anchovies, garlic, and bacon, wrap it up in a sheet of paper spread with lard, roast, and serve with piquante sauce. Stuffed artichokes a la brigoule. Choose some young artichokes ot medium size, cut out the chokes, trim the leaves, and blanch them. Warm some chopped parsley, mushrooms, eschalots, scraped bacon, a pinch of mixed spice, salt, and pepper, in butter; when done, fill the artichokes with this stuffing, tie a string round them to keep the leaves in their original shape, and place them in a sauce- pan, covered with slices of bacon, and sprinkled with olive oil, fix the lid on tight, and when cooked, serve the arti- chokes with their own sauce reduced, or with Italian sauce. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 83 MARCH 23. Consomme aux lazagnes. Clear soup with Italian paste. Goujons frits. Fried gudgeon. Fricassee de poulets. Fricasse'e of fowl. Gigot r6ti. Roast leg of mutton. Puree de navets. Puree of turnips. Gateau de riz. . Rice cake. Fricassee of fowl. Cut up your fowls into joints and soak in warm water until thoroughly clean, dip the pieces into cold water, drain, broil the legs, so as to remove the skin, split the gizzards, cut off the heads and use the best half of the necks; wash the livers, sprinkle the whole with flour and warm in a saucepan, stir them all the time so that the butter may not brown, after five minutes add some stock, two heads of cloves, cockscombs, pieces of sweet-bread, mushrooms, morels, a bouquet of mixed herbs, salt, and pepper; simmer over a moderate fire until sufficiently done, thicken the sauce with yolks of egg, a little cream and lemon juice ; pile the pieces of chicken in an entrde dish, reserving the breasts and wings for the last, pour the sauce over them and garnish with large crayfish. This excellent entre'e must be numbered amongst the classical dishes of French culinary art. Maitre d'hotel butter. Take a tablespoonful of mixed herbs, composed half of finely-chopped parsley, a quarter of chervil leaves, and a quarter of watercress, mix into a pound of fresh butter, add one or two chopped tarragon leaves, the juice of a lemon and two or three yolks of egg, this butter will keep a long time. G 2 84 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. MARCH 24. Potage Faubonne. Faubonne soup. Saumon sauce genevoise. Salmon, Geneva sauce. Poularde a la Grimod. Fowl a la Grimod. Filet de bceuf r6ti Roast fillet of beef. Asperges au beurre. Asparagus with butter. Qiufs a la neige. Poached whites of egg. Fowl a la Grimod de la Beyniere. Clean and truss a fine fowl or fat pullet, beat the back so as to flatten the breast as much as possible, fill it with a stuffing composed of chopped truffles, chicken's liver, mush- rooms, parsley, chives, salt, coarse black pepper, beef marrow, and a little butter and lard. Warm the fowl for a few minutes in melted butter, and cover it with slices of crumb of bread, cut the length of the fowl and about a quarter of an inch thick, lay some slices of lean ham of the same size over them, and wrap the whole in a buttered paper, roast, and serve with its own gravy. Baked mushrooms with bread-crumbs. Prepare the same as stuffed mushrooms (see 4th of September). Poached whites of egg. Boil a pint of milk, two tablespoonsful of orange-flower water and four ounces of sugar in a saucepan; whip up six whites of egg and drop in a dessert-spoonful at a time of the whipped egg into the milk; when poached, place them on dish, thicken the milk with beaten yolks of egg, and pour over the poached whites. Serve cold. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 85 MARCH 25. Potage au pain. Bread soup. Bfeuf bouilli garni de choux. Boiled beef and cabbage. Barbue a la Parmesane. Baked brill with Parmesan cheese. . Jambon roti. Roast ham. Epinards au jus. Stewed spinach. Darioles a la duchesse. Duchess cakes. Baked brill with Parmesan cheese. Break up any pieces of brill which may have been left from the previous day's dinner, take out all the bones, and warm in thick bechamel sauce (see 16th of August); place on a tin or plated dish, smooth with the blade of a knife dipped in boiling water, bread-crumb, and sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese, brown in the oven or with the salamander, and serve very hot. Duchess cakes. To make eighteen cakes, take one ounce of flour and stir well together with an egg; add six yolks of egg, four ounces powdered sugar, six pounded maccaroons, a pinch of salt, and lastly a whole egg, stir until perfectly mixed, and add a pint of- cream, some strips of citron, a tablespoonful of currants, a pinch of chopped angelica, glace' cherries, and some preserved orange- flower leaves. Butter some small moulds, fill them with the cream, bake, and when cooked, glaze with white sugar, and serve very hot. These little cakes are most delicious. 86 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. MARCH 26. Potage printanier. Spring soup. Anguille a la bordelaise. Eel a la bordelaise. Cotelettes de veau a la milanaise. Veal cutlets a la milanaise. Canards sauvages rotis. Roast wild duck. Croute aux champignons. Mushrooms on toast. Compote de poires. Compote of pears. Clear stock a la Fran^aise. This soup, which is the result of keeping a stockpot always going, is generally made in an earthenware pot, .or in a well- tinned stockpot. Cut up your soup-meat into small pieces, crush the bones, put in as many pints of water as there are pounds of beef, flavour with salt, place on the fire, when it boils, skim, and add carrots, turnips, parsnips, a bouquet of parsley, a laurel-leaf, two heads of cloves, a broiled onion, and a lump of sugar. Simmer for seven hours; if the soup is required to be extra good, a fowl can be boiled in it, but if so, no sugar will be required. Clear off all grease, and pass through a tammy. Spring soup. Cut up some carrots, turnips, and leeks into fine strips, warm in fresh butter until slightly brown ; boil in a little stock for an hour, add some asparagus heads, green peas, and french beans, which have been boiled in water; pour in the necessary quantity of stock, skim off all grease, and when boiling, pour into a soup-tureen over toasted crusts of bread. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 87 MARCH 27. Potage a la puree de pois. Puree of green peas. Morue a la ma1tre d'hotel. Salt cod a la ma1tre d'hotel. C6telettes de mouton sauce tomates. Mutton cutlets with tomato sauce. Pate de becassines. Pate of snipe. Macedoine de legumes en salade. Mixed vegetable salad. - Soupirs de nonne. Nun's sighs.' Salt cod a la maitre d'hotel. Soak a piece of salt cod for twenty-four hours, change the water frequently, scrape the fish and boil in water, when cooked, drain and place in a fish-pan. Melt sufficient fresh butter to make a good sauce for the cod, flavour with pepper, a pinch of grated nutmeg, chopped parsley and chives, a pinch of flour, and a tea-cupful of the water in which the cod was boiled; stir this sauce, and pour it over the fish; leave on the fire until the cod is quite hot, stir the sauce the whole time, or the butter will become oily, squeeze the juice of a lemon over it, and serve when the sauce has thickened. Fish glaze. Simmer the heads and trimmings of turbot, whiting, and gurnet in water, with a fifth part of white wine, for several hours; season with carrots, leeks, onions, a bouquet of mixed herbs, and a head of garlic. Pass through a tammy, and reduce to a glaze, and keep until required. Chicken glaze. Prepare the same as above, only use trimmings and bones of chicken instead of fish. Mutton cutlets with tomato sauce. Trim your cutlets, dip them into melted butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and grill on the gridiron, be care- ful to turn the cutlets, serve them at the end of five or six minutes with tomato sauce (see 6th of January). 88 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. MARCH 28. Consomme k la chiffonnade de cer- Clear soup with chervil-leaves. feuil. Limandes frites, sauce Colbert. Fried dab, Colbert sauce. Foie de veau a 1'italienne. Calf s liver a 1'italienne. Quartier d'agneau farci roti. Stuffed forequarter of lamb. Salsifis frits. Fried salsifis. Gateau aux amandes. Almond cake. Clear soup with chervil-leaves. Cut up some chervil-leaves, and boil in your stock; the flavour of these leaves is a great improvement if the stock happens to be rather poor. Calf s liver a 1'Italienne. Cut up the liver into thin slices; put some olive oil, melted lard, and white wine in a saucepan, cover the bottom with chopped parsley, chives, and mushrooms, sprinkled with salt and pepper, place a layer of calf's liver on this, and continue in the same manner until the saucepan is nearly full, cover with slices of bacon, and cook over a slow fire with hot coals on the lid of the saucepan; serve either with Italian sauce (see 13th of October), or with its own sauce reduced, and cleared of all grease. Stuffed forequarter of lamb. Take the meat out of two or three sausages, some chopped bacon, a wine-glassful of cream, some bread-crumbs and chopped mixed herbs, mix the whole well together, and thicken with yolks of egg; raise the shoulder with a knife without cutting the skin, fill with the stuffing, and sew it down with a trussing-needle and string. Wrap in a buttered sheet of paper, and roast. Serve with Spanish sauce (see 3rd of November), or with stewed bottoms of artichokes. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 89 MARCH 29. Garbures gratinees. Bread and cabbage soup a la gasconne. Raie au beurre noir. Skate with black butter sauce. Rosbif garni de pommes de terre. Roast beef and baked potato es. Terrine ou Pate froid. Cold game pie. C£leri-rave au jus. Stewed celery roots. Tartelettes de poires. Pear tartlets. Bread and cabbage soup a la G-asconne. Line a stew-pan with slices of bacon, add some.white cabbages cut into quarters, chopped bacon, carrots, onions, a bouquet of mixed herbs, salt, and pepper, simmer over a slow fire in stock until cooked. Simmer some slices of bread-crumb in stock until quite soft. Sprinkle the bottom of an earthen- ware pot which is fire-proof, with equal quantities of grated Parmesan and Gruyere cheese, fill with alternate layers of cabbage, and soaked bread-crumb, sprinkle each layer with grated cheese, arrange so that you finish filling the pot with cabbages, which must have an extra quantity of cheese sprinkled over them; brown in the oven, and serve very hot. Hand some clear stock in a separate tureen, as some people do not like such thick soup. Mint sauce. Reduce equal quantities of vinegar and water, sweeten with a lump of sugar, and stir in some finely-chopped mint. po THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. MARCH 30. MENU EN MAIGRE. BILL OF FARE FOR FAST DAY. Potage aux choux verts. Green cabbage soup. Alose au court-bouillon. Shad boiled in court-bouillon. Timbale de macaroni a 1'italienne. Timbale of maccaroni a 1'italienne Carpes frites. Fried carp. Asperges a la creme. Asparagus with cream. Gateau de riz. Rice cake. Shad boiled in court-bouillon. Clean out your fish by the gills, sew up the head, and boil in court-bouillon (see 18th of April). When done, drain and dish up on a napkin, garnished with fresh parsley. Hand some white sauce (see 31st of January) in a sauceboat, or oil and vinegar. A sauce can also be made by passing whatever court-bouillon remains through a tammy and warm- ing it in a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, stir in a little flourand a dessert-spoonful of anchovy butter (see 171)1 of May), and hand in a sauceboat. Asparagns with cream. , Cut up some heads of asparagus, wash and drain them, melt some fresh butter in a saucepan, warm the asparagus heads in it, and stir in some be'chamel sauce (see 16th of August) ; when done, serve covered with the sauce. Bice cake. Thoroughly wash half a pound of fine rice, boil in boiling milk and a little lemon-peel; when done, leave until cold, stir in five ounces of powered sugar, a pinch of salt, four whole eggs, and four yolks of egg; keep the whites in a bowl. Butter a mould, and sprinkle with bread-crumbs, whip up the whites of egg and stir them into the rice, fill the mould and bake for half an hour; when cooked, turn out of the mould, and serve. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 91 MARCH 31. Potage printanier. Spring soup. Rougets sauce aux huitres. Red mullet and oyster sauce. Marinade de cervelles. Calf s brain Iritters. Filet de bceuf r6ti au Madere. Roast fillet of beef, Madeira sauce. Petits pois nouveaux a 1'anglaise. Green peas a 1'anglaise. Tartelettes de fraises. Strawberry tartlets. Bed mullet and oyster-sauce. Boil two onions, a chopped carrot, some branches of parsley, and salt in three pints of water, and two tablespoonsful of vinegar, leave on the fire for twenty minutes, pass through a tammy ; when cold, place in a stew-pan, add your mullet, which have been cleaned, boned, and the heads sewn up, boil over a quick fire, and when cooked, simmer for ten minutes, cut off the string from the heads before serving, drain, and dish up, covered with oyster sauce (see 18th of November). Boast fillet of beef, Madeira sauce. Roast your fillet and baste with dripping, to which you have added two tumblers of Madeira and a pinch of white pepper. Clear the gravy of all grease, and serve with the beef. Calf s brain fritters. Cook the same as chicken fritters (see 4th of June). Purslane fried in batter. Take some stalks of purslane, the juice of a lemon, some powdered sugar, and a pinch of grated cinnamon, pound them well together, and leave to soak for two hours. Dip the stalks into batter, to which you have added a little brandy, and fry over a slow fire. Serve, sprinkled with powdered sugar. 92 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. APRIL 1. Potage a 1'oseille. Sorrel soup. Tanches sur le gril. Broiled tench. Langue de bceuf au Parmesan. Stewed ox-tongue with Parmesan cheese. Longe de veau r6tie. Roast loin of veal. Puree de lentilles. Puree of lentils. Meringues a la creme. Meringues with cream. Puree of lentils. Boil your lentils in salt and water with a piece of bacon, when done pass through a tammy, thin the pure'e with stock, and serve with fried bread. If by mistake too much stock is added, the puree must be placed on the fire and reduced, care being taken that it does not burn. Broiled tench. Wash three or four fine tench in boiling water, leave to soak for a few minutes, after which scrape off the scales, beginning from the head, so as not to cut the skin, clean them out and soak for an hour in olive oil, seasoned with chopped parsley, chives, eschalots, thyme, laurel-leaves, salt, and pepper ; wrap each fish in two sheets of paper, which have been soaked in the oil and thickly covered with the chopped seasoning in which the tench were soaked ; broil, and remove the papers before dish- ing up. Pour piquante sauce (see 26th of June) over the fish. Stewed ox-tongue with Parmesan cheese. Trim and blanch the tongue, boil in stock, skin, and cut up into slices ; simmer in a tumblerful of dry white wine and the same quantity of stock until the liquor is reduced one half; pour part of the sauce into a plated dish, grate some Parmesan cheese over it, add the slices of tongue, cover with the re- mainder of the sauce, sprinkle with grated cheese, and brown in the oven. 94 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. APRIL 3. Potage au tapioca. Tapioca soup. Filets de soles au gratin. Baked fillets of sole with bread- crumbs. Cotelettes de mouton jardiniere. Mutton cutlets k la jardiniere. Poulet roti au cresson. Roast fowl with watercresses. Choux de Bruxelles am beurre. Brussels sprouts. Beignets d'abricots a l'eau-de-vie. Apricot fritters with brandy. Baked fillets of sole with bread-crumbs. Cut each sole into four fillets by making a slit down the back and passing a knife between the fish and the backbone. Spread some forcemeat (see 6th of April) on each fillet and roll them. Lin^ a tin or plated dish with a thin layer of the same force- meat, place the fillets round the dish and fill all the empty spaces with forcemeat ; bread-crumb, moisten with melted butter, and brown in the oven or with a salamander. ( Eel a la Bordelaise. Wash and clean out your eel, split it in two, remove the back- bone and boil in white wine, flavoured with salt, pepper, parsley, and slices of onion, when cooked, place the fish between two cloths, press with a heavy weight until quite flat, cut it into fillets and warm in some white wine sauce, which has been reduced and thickened with fish glaze (see 27th of March); when quite hot, dish up the fillets in a pyramid and cover with their own sauce. Garnish with glazed onions (see 14th of January). Apricot fritters with brandy. Cut your apricots into halves, remove the stones, and place each piece between two round slices of either brioche or bread which have been soaked in brandy; dip into batter (see 13th of November), and fry in hot butter or lard until a golden colour, drain and sprinkle with powdered sugar, glaze in the oven or with the salamander. TKIE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 95 APRIL 4. i Potage au riz pmree de pois. Puree of green peas with rice. Turbot au: gratin. Baked turbot. Bceuf a l(i mode. Boeuf a la mode. Canardfe rotis. Roast ducks. Artichauts a la lyonnaise. Artichokes k la lyonnaise. Gateaux fourree« aux confitures. Jam puffs. Baked turbot. Boil a turbot in salt and water, when cold remove all the bones from the fish, break it into pieces and warm in white b&hamel sauce (see 18th of August); when thoroughly mixed place in a tin or plated dish, sprinkle with bread-crumbs and grated Parmesan cheese, moisten with melted butter, and brown in the oven. Jam puffs. Cut out some puff paste with a large round tin cutter, scoop out the centre of half the rounds and fill them with jam, cover with the remaining halves, after moistening the edges of the paste with a little water, glaze with whipped yolk of egg, and bake; when cooked, sprinkle the puffs with powdered sugar, and glaze in the oven or with a salamander. Pistachio cake. Blanch one pound of pistachio nuts and pound in a mortar with the white of an egg, add a little scraped green lemon- peel, half a pound of powdered sugar, ten eggs, the whites of which must be whipped, and mix all together, pour into a well- buttered mould, and bake for an hour in a moderate oven. Turn out of the mould and serve either hot or cold. 96 THE 366 BILLS OF FARBL APRIL 5. Potage aux ceufs poches. Clear soup witm poached eggs. Truite au beurre d'anchois. Trout and anthovy butter. Epigrammes d'agneau aux pointes Breast and neck\ of lamb with d'asperges. asparagus heads. Filet de bceuf roti. Roast fillet of beef. Choux-fleurs sauce hollandaise. ' Cauliflower with hWlandaise sauce. Blanc-manger au cafe. Coffee blanfc-mange. Trout and anchovy butter. Boil the trout in court-bouillon (see 18th of April), and serve with anchovy butter in a sauceboat. ' \ Anchovy butter. Clean and bone your anchovies and pound them in a mortar with double their quantity of fresh butter ; if required for sauce stir in some warm reduced stock, and mix in a saucepan until quite hot. Breast and neck of lamb with asparagus heads. Tie a string round the breast, and braise it (see 28th of May); when cooked remove all bones and place between two dishes with a heavy weight on them to press down the meat; when cold cut into pieces the shape of a cutlet, stick a small bone into each piece so as to give the appearance of a cutlet bone, dip into German sauce (see 2nd of April), egg and bread-crumb them twice over, and fry in melted butter. Cut up the neck into cutlets, and toss them in a saucepan with some fresh butter; when done, arrange the pieces of breast and cutlets alternately round an entree dish and garnish the centre with asparagus heads cooked in be'chamel sauce (see 18th of August). Bread panada. Boil a piece of stale crumb of bread in either stock or water; when done, press between two plates or wring in a cloth, warm in a saucepan with a little fresh butter, salt, pepper, chopped parsley, and four or five yolks of egg, stir until thoroughly mixed, pour into a dish, and place before the fire until quite dry. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 97 APRIL 6. Potage Faubonne. ' Faubonne soup. Mulet grille. Broiled grey mullet. Gigot de mouton braise garni de Braised leg of mutton with rissoles. rissoles. Vanneaux bardes rotis. Roast lapwing. Carottes glace'es. Glazed carrots. Tartelettes aux cerises. Cherry tartlets. Broiled grey mullet. Scale and clean the mullet and put it to soak for half an hour in olive oil, seasoned with slices of onion, parsley, salt, and pepper. Broil the fish over a slow fire, and serve with maitre d'h6tel sauce (see 23rd of March), or green sauce. Green sauce. Boil some slices of ham and veal in equal quantities of stock and white wine; when cooked, simmer over a slow fire until the sauce is reduced, and pass through a tammy. Pound some fresh mixed herbs in the mortar, squeeze out the juice through a cloth on to the sauce, season with salt, pepper, and lemon juice, and thicken with yolks of egg. Glazed carrots. Peel some young carrots all to the same size and shape, blanch them in boiling water, drain, and warm in a saucepan with fresh butter, a pinch of powdered sugar and stock, when boiled make a larger fire, and leave the saucepan on it until the sauce is reduced to a glaze. Forcemeat. Take equal quantities of breast of chicken, dry bread panada made with stock and calfs udder, pound them sepa- rately, after which mix them together and pound again, thicken with yolks of egg, and season with salt, pepper, and a pinch of nutmeg. This forcemeat is generally used with baked fish and vegetables. H 98 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. APRIL 7. Potage & 1'oseille. Sorrel soup. Maquereaux a la maitre d'hotel. Mackerel a la ma1tre d'hotel Bifteck garni de pommes de terre. Steak and potatoes. Terrine de foie gras. Pate de foie gras. Morilles a 1'italienne. Morels a 1'italienne. Gateau d'amandes. Almond cake. Steak and potatoes. The undercut of the sirloin is the best part of beef from which to cut your steaks ; cut up into pieces three inches thick, and beat until an inch flatter, sprinkle with salt and pepper, broil over a quick fire, turn when half done, and take off the gridiron directly the gravy begins to drop. Serve the steaks on a very hot dish, with a lump of fresh butter placed on each one. Garnish with fried potatoes. Maitre d'hotel butter, anchovy butter, pickled cabbage, gherkins, olives, pickled watercress, or Madeira sauce can be handed with this dish. Morels a 1'Italienne. Blanch your morels and warm them in a little fresh butter, seasoned with chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and a pinch of grated nutmeg, add a tumblerful of white wine, and simmer for half an hour; when cooked, add some stock, thickened with browning, the juice of half a lemon, and a lump of chicken glaze (see 2yth of March) the size of a walnut. Dish up, gar- nished with small round sippets of fried bread. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 99 APRIL 8. Potage de riz au gras. Brunoise soup with rice. Raie a la Sainte-Menehould. Skate a la Sainte-MenehouM. Ragout de veau a la bourgeoise. Stewed veal a la bourgeoise. Rouges de riviere bard& rotis. Roast shovellers. Salsifis frits. Fried salsi6s. Tarte aux fraises. Strawberry tartlets. Skate a la Salute Meuehcrald. Take some milk, a lump of fresh butter, and a little flour, season with parsley, a bouquet of mixed herbs, slices of onion, a head of garlic, and two large pinches of mixed spice, stir in a saucepan until it boils ; add your slices of skate, and leave until cooked; drain the fish, dip each slice into melted butter, and bread-crumb, repeat this, and broil over a slow fire. Dish up on remoulade sauce (see 23rd of October). Stewed veal. Stir a lump of butter and a little flour in a saucepan until brown; if a white stew is required do not allow the butter to brown; cut your veal into pieces, and warm in the melted butter; when the meat is firm, add a little warm water; season with young onions, salt, pepper, thyme, laurel-leaves, button mushrooms, morels, young carrots, and peas ; when thoroughly cooked, serve very hot. If a white stew, thicken the sauce with yolks of egg before dishing up. Stewed oysters. Cook the same as stewed veal (see above). H 2 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. APRIL 9. Potage aux quenelles de volaille. Clear soup with quenelles of chicken. Piece de bceuf sauce Robert. Boiled beef, Robert sauce. Ris de veau frits. Fried sweet-breads. Poularde rotie. Roast pullet. Asperges en branches. Asparagus. Gateau de riz. Rice cake. Clear soup with quenelles of chicken. Prepare some chicken forcemeat (see 3rd of September), shape it into quenelles in a teaspoon, and poach them in the required quantity of clear stock, which must be boiling, and serve. Fried sweet-breads. Trim and blanch your sweet-breads, and dip them into lukewarm stock, to which you have added melted butter, chopped herbs, eschalots, and chives, the juice of a lemon, salt and pepper; drain the sweet-breads, dip them into batter (see 13th of November), and fry until a golden colour. Serve with tomato sauce (see 6th of January), and garnish with fried parsley. Bice cake. Wash five ounces of rice, and cook in milk ; when thoroughly boiled and swollen, pour into a dish, and leave until cold. Take a pint of flour, a pinch of salt, four eggs, half a pound of butter, and mix together, pound them in a mortar with the cold rice, pour into a plain buttered mould, and bake for an hour; when done, turn out of the mould, cover with whipped whites of egg, and brown in the oven. THE 366 BILLS Of FARE. APRIL 10. MENU EN MAIGRE. BILL OF FARE FOR FAST DAY. Potage a 1'oignon. Onion soup. Matelote d'anguille et de carpe. Stewed carp and eel. CEufs broailles aux pointes Buttered eggs with asparagus heads. d'asperges. Ecrivisses en buisson. Crayfish. Morilles a 1'Andalouse. Morels a 1'Andalouse. Kluskis au fromage a la creme. Kluskis of cream cheese. Morels a 1'Andalouse. . Brown some dice of ham in olive oil, and when a good colour add your morels ; moisten with a tumblerful of sherry, a wine- glass of Madeira, season with salt, pepper, a teaspoonful of powdered capsicum, a pinch of grated nutmeg, and some chopped parsley. Cook for three quarters of an hour, and before serving thicken the sauce with brown thickening, and flavour with lemon juice. Kluskis of cream cheese. Take half a pound of fresh butter, six eggs, six table- spoonsful of cream cheese, a pinch of powdered sugar and salt, and sufficient grated bread-crumb and cream to make a paste, mix well together, and roll into the shape of rissoles, poach in boiling salt and water, drain them, and serve, covered with black butter sauce (see 14th of October). Poivrade sauce. Take a tumblerful of vinegar, a little fresh butter, a tea- spoonful of chopped chives, a pinch of chopped herbs, thyme, laurel-leaves, salt, and black pepper, reduce in a saucepan, add some meat glaze and a little stock, stir over the fire until quite thick, and pass through a tammy. 102 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. APRIL n. Potage printanief aux ceufs poches. Spring soup with poached eggs. Quartier de pre-sale a la bretonne. Forequarter of South-down mutton * a la bretonne. Ailerons de dinde a la chicoree. Turkey pinions with pure"e of chicory. Pate de saumon. Salmon pie. Salade de legumes. - Vegetable salad. Baba au rhum. Baba or rum cake. Salmon pie. Pound one pound of cold boiled pike or whiting, and pass through a coarse sieve; take three quarters of a pound of butter and a quarter of a pound of very dry bread-crumb, season with salt and pepper, pound in the mortar, and when quite smooth, add it to the pounded fish with a whole egg and three yolks of egg, stir well together, and poach this forcemeat in boiling stock. Cut a piece of salmon, weighing about two pounds, into slices an inch thick, skin, and bone them. Line a plain mould with paste, made with equal quantities of flour and butter, and fill it with alternate layers of forcemeat and salmon; when nearly full, cover with a leaf of paste, moisten the edges so that it may fit closely, and lay a thick layer of hot water paste over it all, make a hole about the size of a shilling in the paste, and bake for an hour and a half. Turkey pinions with puree of chicory. Prepare the same as turkey pinions (see 4th of October), but serve with a puree of chicory. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 103 APRIL 12. Potage aux pites d'ltalie. Clear soup with Italian paste. Morue au gratin. Baked salt cod with bread-crumbs. Gigot de sept heures. Stewed leg of mutton. . Becassines roties. Roast snipe. Epinards nouveaux a la crime. Young spinach with cream.- Tourte aux fraises. Strawberry tart. Baked salt cod with bread-crumbs. Soak some salt cod for a few hours and boil it, remove all bones and break it into pieces. Warm some fresh butter, flour, salt, black pepper, a pinch of grated nutmeg, and cream in a saucepan, stir with a wooden spoon until it boils; place the pieces of. cod in a deep dish, and pour the hot sauce over them; when cold; pile up the fish in a pyramid on a tin or plated dish, smooth over with a warm knife, and sprinkle with bread-crumbs and grated Parmesan or Gruyere cheese; moisten thoroughly with melted butter, bread-crumb again, and sprinkle a little more melted butter over it; place the dish in a moderate oven until sufficiently browned. Serve, garnished with fried bread. Stewed leg of mutton. Bone a leg of mutton, and brown it in a stew-pan with some fresh butter; when a good colour, add a little water, three heads of garlic, four or five onions, two carrots, salt, and pepper; simmer for seven hours, when it will be sufficiently cooked. Place the mutton on a dish, clear the sauce of all grease, thicken it with potato flour, and pour over the leg. Hand either a puree of chicory, haricot beans, or chestnuts in a separate dish. 104 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. APRIL 13. Puree de pommes de terre k la chif- Puree of potatoes with chervil- fonnade de cerfeuil. leaves. Accolade d'anguilles a la broche. Brace of eels roasted. Tourne-dos, sauce poivrade. Fillets of beef with poivrade sauce. Quartier de devant d'agneau roti. Roast forequarter of lamb. Pommes de terre frites. Fried potatoes. Charlotte russe. Charlotte russe. Brace of eels roasted. Choose two eels of the same size, cut off the heads and tails, skewer them together back to back, so arranged that the head of one is skewered to the other one's tail, place them in a deep dish or fish-pan, with a pint of white wine, some well flavoured stock, and bake in a moderate oven for half-an-hour; strain them, and wrap in a large sheet of buttered paper, roast for twenty minutes, and dish up; make some sauce by reducing the liquor in which the eels were boiled to a glaze, stir in a tumblerful of sherry, season with salt, pepper, and a pinch of grated nutmeg, and pour over the eels. Serve very hot. Boast forequarter of lamb. Cover the lamb with slices of bacon, and wrap it up in sheets of buttered paper, roast, and when sufficiently cooked, take off the spit, raise the shoulder from the neck with a knife and fill the cavity with maitre d'hotel butter (see zjrd of March), and serve with its own gravy. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 105 APRIL 14. Potage au macaroni. Maccaroni soup. Grenadins de filets de soles. Larded fillets of sole with forcemeat. Pigeons aux petits pois. Stewed pigeons and green peas. Filet de bceuf roti, sauce Madere. Roast fillet of beef with Madeira sauce. Asperges au beurre. Asparagus. Omelette soufflee. Omelet souffle. Larded fillets of sole with forcemeat. Line a saucepan with slices of bacon, put a large truffle in the centre, lard some fillets of sole and lay them in rays, start- ing from the truffle, place two fillets of mullet in the space between each fillet of sole, dividing them with half a fillet of sole larded with truffles, spread a layer of forcemeat (see 3rd of September) about an inch thick over the fillets, be careful not to leave any interstices, and fill up the saucepan with mince- meat (see 28th of August); cover the whole with hot water paste, and bake in the oven; when done, turn out of the saucepan on to the drainer, remove the slices of bacon and serve. Hand some Spanish sauce (see 3rd of November), with a little stock added to it, in a sauceboat. Boast fillet of beef with Madeira sauce. Trim your fillet, lard, and soak it in oil for four hours, seasoned with slices of onion, parsley, salt, and pepper. Wrap it up in buttered paper, and roast; remove the paper five minutes before taking off the spit. Fifty minutes is the usual time for roast- ing a fillet weighing about five pounds. Hand Madeira sauce (see 1 pth of August) separately. 1o6 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. APRIL 15. Potage au vermicelle maigre. White vermicelli soup. Rougets barbets sauce tartare. Red mullet with tartare sauce. Cotelettes de veau a la milanaise. Veal cutlets a la milanaise. Canard roti. Roast duck. Petits pois a 1'anglaise. Green peas a 1'anglaise. Meringue a la creme. Meringues with cream. Bed mullet with tartare sauce. Prepare and cook your mullet the same as on the 2oth of January, but do not wrap them in paper cases. Serve with tartare sauce (see i5th of March). Veal cutlets a la Milanaise. Cut your cutlets half an inch thick and beat them as flat as possible without breaking the bone, rub them over with salt and pepper, dip into melted butter, sprinkle with grated Par- mesan cheese, and egg and bread-crumb them, if not sufficiently covered, egg and bread-crumb a second time ;• fry the cutlets in fresh butter, and drain them. Serve with either maitre d'hotel butter or tomato sauce, and garnish with a lemon cut into slices. Green peas a 1'Anglaise. Boil your peas in boiling salt and water, season with an onion and a bouquet of parsley, when done, remove the onion and parsley, drain, and pour on to a lump of fresh butter, sprinkle with chopped parsley, and serve very hot. Hand some powdered sugar separately. THE 366 BILLS Of FARE. 107 APRIL 16. Potage au 'pain. Bread soup. Bceuf bouilli sauce Robert. Boiled beef, Robert sauce. Vol-au-vent de quenelles. Vol-au-vent of quenelles. Poulet roti. Roast fowl. tpinards au jus. Stewed spinach. Gateau de plomb. Lead cake. Lead cake. Take two quarts of flour, make a well in the centre, and fill it with one ounce of salt, two and a half ounces of sugar, two pounds of butter, and twelve eggs, mix well together and roll out the paste three times, if too thick add a little milk; leave the paste on a wooden slab for half an hour, then add half a pound of butter, roll it out four times and fold into a thick cake, cut out the edges with a tin cutter, prick the top of the cake, egg over with whipped yolks of egg, and bake for an hour and a half. Brown thickening. Brown thickening is the foundation of nearly all brown sauces, and is prepared in the following manner: Take one pound of fresh butter, melt it in a saucepan, skim it, and when clarified, stir in a pound of flour, moisten with either water or stock, and stir with a wooden spoon until brown, when it will be ready for use. White thickening. Prepare the same as brown thickening, but do not leave on the fire long enough to become brown, as this thickening is chiefly used for white sauces. 1o8 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. APRIL 17. Potage paysanne. Peasant soup. Anguille aux montants de laitue Fricassee of eel and lettuce. romaine. Oreilles de pore a la lyonnaise. Pigs ears a la lyonnaise. Rosbif roti. Roast beef. Haricots verts a la poulet. French beans with white sauce. Flan de poires. Open pear tart. Pig's ears a la Lyonnaise. Singe the pig's ears, scrape, clean, and cut them into strips, simmer in stock, seasoned with fried slices of onion, pepper, salt, and a little flour; when cooked, add the juice of a lemon, and serve, garnished with fried sippets of bread. French beans with white sauce. Cut up your french beans, soak them in cold water, and boil in boiling salt and water; when done, plunge them into cold water and drain. Warm some chopped onions in fresh butter, but do not brown them ; when nearly cooked, stir in a little flour, salt, pepper, chopped parsley, chives, and a wine-glassful of stock, add the beans, and when boiling thicken the sauce with yolks of egg, and flavour with lemon juice. Do not let the sauce be too thin. Asparagus with butter sauce. Boil your asparagus in salt and water, and serve with butter sauce (see 22nd of January). THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 109 APRIL 18. Potage puree de pois au riz. Puree of peas with rice. Brochet au court-bouillon. Pike boiled in court-bouillon. 6paule d'agneau glacee. . Glazed shoulder of lamb. Pintade rotie. Roast guinea fowl. Pommes de terre sautees. ' Fried potatoes. Confitures de cerises. Compote of cherries. Court-bouillon, or white wine sauce. This sauce is so useful that it always ought to be at hand in every kitchen, and whenever any is taken out of the bowl in which it is kept, it must be replaced by the same quantity of white wine. Fill a fish-pan nearly to the brim with white wine, a wine-glassful of brandy, the same quantity of sherry, and season with salt, pepper, two heads of cloves, a head of garlic, sliced onions, carrots, turnips, parsnips, celery, chervil, parsley, laurel-leaves, thyme, and a lump of lard or fresh butter, if for fast days use olive oil; boil over a quick fire until reduced a third; if the wine catches fire, it will greatly improve the flavour of the sauce. When used for cooking fish or crayfish, see that the court-bouillon is boiling before putting them in, and have sufficient quantity to cover the fish thoroughly. A cheaper manner of preparing the sauce is by using equal quantities of vinegar and water instead of white wine, and by omitting some of the vegetables. Glazed shoulder of lamb. Bone your shoulder, lard the top part of it, and skewer into any shape preferred. Cook the same as fricandeau of veal (see 1 1th of May), reduce the sauce in which it has been braised, and glaze the shoulder with it. no THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. APRIL 19 Potage k la pur& de poireaux. Puree of leeks. Brandade de morue. Cream of salt cod. Cotelettes de mouton a lajardiniere. Mutton cutlets a la jardiniere. Poulet roti. Roast chicken. Macaroni au gratin. Maccaroni cheese. Epinards au sucre. Sweet spinach. Cream of salt cod. Soak a nice piece of salt cod for twenty-four hours in fresh water, boil it in cold water, and when done, skin and bone it carefully, break into small pieces, and warm in melted butter, a little olive oil, chopped garlic and parsley, stir with a wooden spoon until it becomes a thick cream, moistening from time to time with either olive oil, butter, or milk. Unless great care is taken to stir the whole time, the fish will not dissolve as it ought. Mutton cutlets a la jardiniere. Trim your cutlets, cover them with slices of bacon, and cook them in a stew-pan with a little stock. When done, take out the cutlets, and boil some bottoms of artichokes, salsifis, carrots, and turnips in the same stock, and leave on the fire to simmer until the vegetables have absorbed all the gravy; clear off all grease, and pour the vegetables over the cutlets, which have been kept hot. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 1n APRIL 20. MENU EN MAIGRE. BILL OF FARE FOR FAST DAY. Potage a la puree de navets. Puree of turnips. Raie an beurre noir. Skate with black butter sauce. Vol-au-vent de legumes. Vol-au-vent of vegetables. Goujons frits. Fried gudgeon. Haricots verts a 1'anglaise. French beans a 1'anglaise. Pommes en croustade. Open apple tart. Salt cod with black butter sauce. Soak your cod for twenty-four hours in fresh water, boil in cold water. When done, place on a dish, cover with black butter sauce, and garnish with fresh parsley. French beans a I'Anglaise. Cut up your beans, boil them in salt and water, drain, and pour into a vegetable dish, on to a large lump of fresh butter, sprinkle with chopped parsley, and serve very hot. Open apple tart. Line a plain mould with short paste, brush some yolk of egg over it, and bake until a golden colour, turn it out, and fill the case half full of apple marmalade (see 31st of January), place some whole stewed apples on it, garnish them with apricot jam and dried cherries, surround the tart with pieces of apple jelly and apricot jam, and serve. 112 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. APRIL 21. Potage croute au pot. Soup with bread-crusts. Jambon k la broche aux epinards. Roast ham and spinach. Salmis de cuisses de canetons. Salmis of duck's thighs. Anguille rotie a la sauce verte. Roast eel with green sauce. Asperges en branches. Asparagus. Pouding a la d'Orleans. Orleans pudding. Boast ham. Soak the ham for twelve hours in water; place it in a deep dish or earthenware pan, and soak for twenty-four hours in white wine, seasoned with sliced onions, carrots, parsley, laurel- leaves, and thyme ; cover the pan with a cloth, and press on the lid very tight to prevent the air getting in. Roast the ham, baste with the wine in which it was soaked. When sufficiently done, dish it up on a pure"e of spinach. Salmis of duck's thighs. The thighs or insides of the legs of ducks are considered the most delicate part of the bird, and even in great kitchens they are kept from ducks served the previous day, and made into a salmis. Cut off the insides of the legs, and put them on one side, pull the remainder of the duck into shreds, and boil in equal quantities of claret and stock, season with salt, pepper, . eschalots, and parsley, reduce and simmer, until the sauce is quite thick, pass through a tammy, and warm the thighs in this sauce, take off the fire before it boils; dish up in a pyramid, cover with the sauce, squeeze a little lemon juice over it, and garnish with fried sippets of bread. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 113 APRIL 22. Potage au macaroni. Maccaroni soup. Poulet au gros sel. Boiled chicken. Soles en turban. Baked fillets of sole. Gigot roti. Roast leg of mutton. Haricots a la bretonnei Haricot beans a la bretonne. Gateaux a la creme. Cream pastry. Baked fillets of sole, turban fashion. Cut a piece of crumb of bread into the shape of a small sugar-loaf, place in the centre of a tin dish with the narrowest part downwards ; cover with slices of bacon, spread a layer of forcemeat over them, and stick on the fillets of sole in such a way as to form the shape of a turban, garnish with small rounds of truffles, moisten with melted butter, flavour with lemon juice, cover with slices of bacon and a buttered sheet of paper; bake, and when done, remove the paper, slices of bacon, and the piece of bread from the centre, and fill the hole with tomato sauce. Cream pastry. Take two pints of flour and stir in a tumblerful of double cream and a pinch of salt; when mixed, roll out the paste and leave for half an hour; add half a pound of butter, roll five times, and cut out into any shape you please; glaze with beaten yolks of egg, and bake. Butter biscuits. These biscuits are made the same as cream cake. H4 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. APRIL 23. Potage au pain. Bread soup. Culottedebceufgarniede croquettes. Rump-steak with croquettes. Poulets a la d'Escars. Chicken a la d'Escars. Eperlans frits. Fried smelts. Oseille en puree. Puree of sorrel. Pommes meringuees. Meringue of apple. Chicken a la d'Escars. Truss your chicken for boiling, lard the breasts and place in a stew-pan lined with slices of bacon, add a slice of ham, an onion stuck with cloves, a bouquet of mixed herbs, and some slices of carrot; moisten with a large wine-glassful of stock and the same quantity of sherry ; cover the whole with slices of bacon, and cook over a moderate fire with hot coals on the lid of the saucepan so as to brown and glaze the bacon. When the chicken is sufficiently done, drain it; pass the sauce through a tammy, skim off all grease, reduce it, stir in a little brown thickening, and pour over the chicken. Puree of sorrel. Chop up some sorrel, lettuce, and a few cheryil-leaves with a little white beet, stir over the fire in a saucepan until thoroughly dissolved without the addition of any liquid, when done, add a lump of fresh butter, salt, and (pepper, thicken with yolks of egg and cream, and serve. \ Boast calf's kidney. | Cook the same as roast fillet of veal (see 16th of June/. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. APRIL 24. Potage au tapioca. Tapioca soup. Maquereaux a la ma1tre d'h6tel. Mackerel a la maitre d'hotel. Poularde au gros sel. Boiled fowl. Foie de veau r6ti. Roast calfs liver. Patates au beurre. Sweet potatoes with butter. Gateau feuillete". Light pastry. Boast calf's liver. Choose a fine white calfs liver, lard it with thick fillets of bacon, sprinkle with chopped garlic, herbs, and mixed spice, and cover with a thick layer of lard; roast before a moderate fire; when cooked, skim all grease off the dripping, flavour with lemon-juice, and pour over the liver. Another way of cooking calf's liver is to roast it, without larding; pourpiquante sauce, flavoured with chopped capers or gherkins over it. Light pastry. Make a soft paste, with one pound of flour, water, and a pinch of salt, leave for half an hour; roll it out, spread some fresh butter over it, fold and roll out again, repeat this three or four times ; cut out in any shape you fancy, and bake in a quick oven. • Sweet potatoes with butter. Steam the sweet potatoes, when cooked, peel and slice them. Warm in a saucepan with a little fresh butter and salt i I 2 u6 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. APRIL 25. Potage au pain. Bread soup. Piece de bceuf bouilli, gamie a la Boiled beef a la flamande. flamande. Ailerons de dindon a la Sainte-Me. Turkey pinions k la Sainte-Mene- nehould. hould. Homard au court-bouillon. Lobster boiled in court-bouillon. Puree de pommes de terre au gratin. Baked puree of potatoes with bread- crumbs. Brioches aux fruits. Brioche with stewed fruits. Turkey pinions a la Sainte-Meuehould. Boil eight or ten turkey pinions in equal quantities of stock and white wine, season with salt, pepper, a bouquet of mixed herbs, and a pinch of grated nutmeg, leave on the fire until the sauce sticks to the pinions, place in a dish, cover with the sauce, and when cold dip them into olive oil, sprinkle with bread-crumbs and broil, when a good colour, dish up; squeeze a Irttle lemon juice over them, and serve. Lobster boiled in court-bouillon. Boil your lobster in court-bouillon (see 18th of April), add a lump of fresh butter, parsley, a chili pepper, two or three leeks, salt, and a tablespoonful of vinegar; leave on the fire for twenty-five minutes. When cold, serve the lobster with the following sauce. Lobster sauce. Scoop out the body of the lobster, and stir in a bowl with the spawn, some olive oil, a teaspoonful of mustard, a pinch of chopped herbs, two pounded eschalots, a little white pepper, ten or twelve drops of Soy sauce, a small liqueur glass of anisette, and the juice of two or three lemons ; when thoroughly mixed the sauce will be ready for use. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 117 APRIL 26. Potage de riz a la puree d'oseille. Puree of sorrel with rice. Rougets barbets en caisse. Red mullet in cases. Tendrons de veau aux pointes Tendons of veal with asparagus. d'asperges. Accolade de lapereaux. Roast brace of young rabbits. Pommes de terre nouvelles 4 la New potatoes boiled in cream. creme. Cougloff a 1'allemande. Cougloffj or German cake. Braised rump-steak. Prepare the same as braised ribs of beef (see 22nd of January). Boast brace of young rabbits. Skin, singe, and clean out your rabbits, leave the livers, lard the backs and thighs, skewer them together, and roast; serve, covered with Italian sauce. New potatoes boiled in cream. Stir a lump of fresh butter, a tablespoonful of flour, some chopped chives and parsley, salt, pepper, and a pinch of grated nutmeg in a saucepan, add sufficient cream in which to warm the potatoes, when it boils, add the potatoes, which have been previously boiled and sliced, warm in the sauce, and serve very hot. Cougloff, or German cake. Dissolve a lump of German yeast the size of two eggs, and half an ounce of salt, in half a tumblerful of warm water, stir it into one pound of flour, add four eggs, half a pound of stoned raisins, two ounces of currants, four ounces of powdered sugar, and a little warm milk; when well mixed, roll into a ball, wrap up in a cloth sprinkled with flour, and place in an earthenware pan near the fire ; if cold, cover with a blanket, and turn the paste occasionally; leave to rise about the same time as you would bread. When ready for use, roll out the ball of paste on a wooden slab, glaze it with yolk of egg, and bake. This is a most delicious cake. n8 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. APRIL 27. Potage printanier. Spring soup. Carpes a 1'etuvee. Stewed carp. Poulardes a 1'estragon. Pullets with tarragon. Rosbif roti. Roast beef. Oignons farcis. Stuffed onions. Blanc-manger au cafe. Coffee blanc-mange. Staffed onions. Pick out some large onions, peel, blanch, and drain them, scoop out the centres and fill with forcemeat (see 3rd of Sep- tember), place them at the bottom of a large stew-pan, cover with slices of bacon, sprinkle with salt and sugar, and cook over a quick fire; when done, remove the onions, reduce the sauce, and pour over them. Bacon omelet. Mince half a pound of lean bacon very fine and fry in either butter or lard; have the required number of eggs ready beaten and seasoned with salt and pepper, add to the bacon, and when the omelet is cooked, serve with piquante sauce. feoffee blanc-mange. Toast a quarter of a pound of coffee-berries, grind, and put them in a tumblerful of boiling water, leave until the grounds have settled at the bottom of the tumbler, pour the clear coffee into a bowl, and add half a pound of sugar and half an ounce of dissolved gelatine. Pound one pound of sweet almonds in a mortar, add three tumblersful of water, and squeeze the whole through a cloth ; pour half of this liquid on to the coffee, and stir the other half into half a pound of sugar and a quarter of an ounce of gelatine, which have been dissolved in a tumblerful of warm water. Place a mould in a pailful of ice and pour in alternate layers of coffee and milk of almonds as they freeze. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 119 APRIL 28. Potage aux nouilles. German paste soup. Cabillaud a la hollandaise. Cod il la hollandaise. Poulets a la Marengo. Chicken 'ii. la Marengo. Pate froid. Cold pie. Pointes d'asperges au jus. Stewed asparagus heads. Creme au cafe. Coffee cream. Cold pies and how to make them. There are a variety of cold pies, such as veal and ham, chicken, fish, game, or foie gras. Line a mould with short paste and spread a thick layer of either meat, game, or fish forcemeat, fill up the mould with whatever meat or fish you intend using, press it down firmly, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cover with a thick pie-crust; make a hole in the centre, put in a small roll of paper to keep it open, and glaze with whipped white and yolk of egg. Bake the pie, and when done, keep until cold. Fill up the hole in the paste with a lump of uncooked flour and water until time to serve. Stewed asparagus heads. Melt some fat of bacon, season with white pepper, a pinch of grated nutmeg, salt, chopped parsley and chervil; add your asparagus heads, moisten with stock, and when cooked, stir in a little beef gravy, and serve. 120 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. APRIL 29. Potage printanier. Spring soup. Maquereaux bouillis ou & 1'eau de Boiled mackerel. sel. Marinade de cervelles. Brains a la Provengale. Filet de bceuf roti. Roast fillet of beef. Macaroni a 1'italienne. Maccaroni a 1'italienne. Creme fouettee de fraises et de Whipped strawberry and raspberry framboises. cream. Boiled mackerel. Clean out your fish, leave the livers, and cut several slits crossways down the sides, tie up the heads with string, and boil in strong salt and water, seasoned with pepper, parsley, and an onion; when cooked, drain, and serve with either mussel or caper sauce. Whipped strawberry and raspberry cream. Whip two pints of double cream, and put all the froth in a fine hair sieve. Crush a pound of mixed strawberries and raspberries through a sieve, sweeten the juice with powdered sugar, mix the cream and juice together, whip, and serve. Shrimp sauce. Take equal quantities of butter sauce (see 22nd of January), and white poivrade sauce (see 21st of March), warm in a saucepan with a little shrimp butter, a few drops of essence of anchovy, and some peeled shrimps. Serve very hot. * Shrimp butter. Prepare the same as lobster butter (see 1gth of February). THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 121 APRIL 30. MENU EN MAIGRE. BILL OF FARE FOR FAST DAY. Julienne maigre. Julienne soup for fast day. Barbeau grilled Broiled barbel. CEufs a la tripe. Eggs a la tripe. Brochets a 1'huile. Pike pickled in oil. Navets a la poulette. Turnips with white sauce. Souffle aux amandes (chaud). Hot almond souffle. Boiled barbel. Cut some deep slits down the side of the barbel, and fill them with fresh butter and salt, broil the fish and serve either with anchovy sauce, or green sauce, flavoured with salt, pepper, essence of anchovy, garlic, and chopped olives. Eggs a la tripe. Warm some slices of onion in fresh butter until quite soft, but do not let them brown, stir in a teaspoonful of flour, salt, pepper, a pinch of grated nutmeg, and the necessary quantity of cream, in which to cook your eggs, reduce until quite thick, warm some sliced hard-boiled eggs in the sauce, and take off the fire before they boil. Turnips stewed in white sauce. Cut up some young turnips into small balls, blanch' and boil them in white thickening, moisten with a little stock, boil until the sauce is reduced, sprinkle with powdered sugar, £jdd a little fresh butter, and. just before serving thicken with yolks of egg. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. MAY 1. Potage a la puree de pois verts. Puree of green peas. Barbue aux fines herbes. Brill stewed with mixed herbs. Poulets a la diable.y Devilled chicken. Cochon de lait rStl; Roast sucking.pig. Carottes nouvelles a la sauce blanche. Young carrots stewed in white sauce. Gateau fourre. Open jam tart. Boast sucking-pigr. Scald, scrape, singe, and clean out your sucking-pig ; stuff it with fresh butter seasoned with chopped herbs, .salt and pepper ; soak for half an hour in cold water, drain, dry in a cloth, roast it, and baste with olive oil. Hand piquante sauce separately. Another stuffing used for roast sucking-pig is to chop up the liver, with bacon, mushrooms, capers, mixed herbs, salt and pepper, warmed in butter. Hot pies. Line a plain mould with short paste, fill the centre with dry flour, cover with a layer of the same paste; bake, and when done, take off the cover, remove the dry flour, turn out of the mould and fill the case with whatever stewed meat or game you have prepared, replace the cover, warm in the oven, and serve. • Sucking-pig pie. This pie must be served cold. See cold pies (28th of April). THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 123 Potage Faubonne. Perche grillee. Lapin en gibelotte. Rognon de veau roti. Petits pois au jus. Tartlettes aux fraises. MAY 2. Faubonne soup. Broiled perch. Stewed eel and rabbit. Roast calf s kidney. Stewed green peas. Strawberry tartlets. Stewed eel and rabbit. Cut a rabbit and a small eel into pieces, warm in brown thickening seasoned with young onions and mushrooms; when a good colour, add a little white wine, double the quantity of stock, salt, pepper, thyme, parsley, and chives; take out the pieces of eel and the onions, cook the rabbit over a quick fire until the sauce is reduced two-thirds; add the eel and onions, simmer until done, clear the sauce of all grease, and serve. Some people prefer to use the bottoms of artichokes instead of eel. Garnish with fried sippets of bread. Omelet. Break your eggs into a bowl, add salt, pepper, a little water, and some small lumps of butter, beat for one or two minutes; melt a piece of butter in a frying-pan, do not let it brown, pour in the eggs, keep shaking the frying-pan so that the omelet does not burn ; when nearly done place a lump of butter on it, fold, and serve very hot. 124 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. MAY 3. Potage a la semoule. Semolina soup. Truites k la hussarde. Trout a la hussarde. Poulet r6ti. Roast chicken. C6telettes de mouton a la puree de Mutton cutlets with puree of mush- champignons. rooms. Petits pois nouveaux a 1'anglaise. Green peas a 1'anglaise. Omelette aux confitures. Sweet omelet with jam. Trout a la hussarde. Clean out your trout, and stuff with butter and chopped herbs, soak for an hour- in olive oil, and broil them. Hand poivrade sauceboat. Babbits a la Venitienne. Cut up a rabbit, lard all the large joints, braise in a stew- pan with some slices of veal, a tumblerful of white wine, half a tumblerful of olive oil, four heads of garlic, salt and pepper. Place the lid on the stew-pan, and cook over a moderate fire; when done, dish up the pieces of rabbit in a pyramid; pass the sauce through a tammy and pour over them. Caper sauce. Mix a quarter of a pound of butter, the same quantity of flour, a tumblerful of water, salt and pepper in a saucepan, when boiling take off the fire, stir in half a pound of butter; put some capers in a sauceboat, and pour the sauce over them. Make this sauce just before serving, and do not let it get too thick. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 125 MAY 4. Potage paysanne. Peasant soup. Piece de bceuf bouillie garnie a la Boiled beef a la foret de Senart. foret de Senart. Poulets a la sauce tomates. Braised fowls with tomato sauce. Quartier de pre-sale r6ti. Roast shoulder of mutton. Pornmes de terre a la parisienne. Potatoes a la parisienne. Meringues aux fraises. Strawberry meringues. . Garnish a la foret de Senart. Tie up some large branches of parsley into bunches and fry in butter, place them as close as possible round your joint of boiled beef, so as to give the appearance of a forest. Braised fowls with tomato sauce. Pluck and draw your fowls, remove the breast-bones and stuff them with melted butter seasoned with salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Line a braising-pan with slices of bacon, lay slices of lemon on the breasts of the fowls, place them in the pan, and cover the whole with slices of bacon, braise for three quarters of an hour with hot coals on the lid; when cooked, dry the fowls in a cloth, remove the slices of lemon, and serve on tomato sauce. Potatoes a. la Parisienne. Chop up some onions very fine, and brown in equal quan- tities of butter and lard; when a good colour, moisten with either water or stock, add your potatoes, season with a bouquet of herbs, salt and pepper. When cooked serve very hot. Cboux, or light batter-cakes. Prepare the same as nun's sighs (see loth of March), but serve cold, filled with cream. 126 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. MAY 5. Potage aux pates d'ltalie avec Par- Soup with Italian paste and Par- mesan. mesan cheese. Filets de grondins en turban. Fillets of gurnet, turban fashion. Ris de veau en fricandeau. Fricandeau of sweet-breads. Filet de pore pique r6ti. Roast fillet of pork larded. 'Petits pois a 1'anglaise. Green peas a 1'anglaise. Madeleines. Madeleine cakes. Fricandeau of sweet-breads. Trim, drain, and blanch your sweet-breads, lard with well- flavoured bacon, and braise (see 28th of May) for three quarters of an hour. Pass the sauce through a tammy, reduce, add a pinch of powdered sugar, glaze the tops of the sweet-breads with it, and serve on a pure"e of either sorrel, tomato, chestnuts, or mushrooms; or, better still, with some stewed cucumbers on a purde of either spinach or chicory. Madeleine cakes. Take eleven ounces of powdered sugar, half a pound of flour, six whole eggs, four yolks, two tablespoonsful of brandy, a pinch of salt, and the grated peel of a lemon, stir until thoroughly' mixed; dip thirty-two small moulds into three quarters of a pound of melted butter, add whatever butter re- mains to the paste, stir in a saucepan until dissolved, pour into the moulds, and bake in a moderate oven. Fillets of gurnet, turban fashion. Prepare the same as fillets of sole, turban fashion (see 22nd of April). THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 127 MAY 6. Totage Conde". Conde soup. Barbue sauce hollandaise. Brill, Hollandaise sauce. Cotelettes de veau 4 la Gingarat. Veal cutlets a la Gingarat. Canetons r6tis. Roast ducklings. Concombres a la demi-glace. Glazed cucumbers. Pouding a la d'Orleans. Orleans pudding. Veal cutlets a la Gingarat. Cut up some pickled tongue into narrow strips, scrape a piece of lean bacon, season with white pepper and a pinch of grated nutmeg, warm in a saucepan; when cooked lard your cutlets with the fillets of tongue, toss them in a saucepan with fresh butter, when the meat is firm take off the fire. Line a stew-pan with slices of ham and bacon, add the trimmings of the tongue and the cutlets, cover with bacon and fill up the stew-pan with sliced carrots and onions, moisten with stock, and cook for two hours over'a slow fire with hot coals on the lid. When done, drain and glaze the cutlets; pass the sauce through a hair sieve, add a little brown thickening, reduce until half the quantity, and pour over the cutlets. Boast leg of mutton. Trim, beat your leg of mutton, and roast it; allow a quarter of an hour for each pound ; add a little stock to the dripping, clear of all grease, and hand in a sauceboat, which has been heated in boiling water. 128 THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. MAY 7. ' Consbmme aux carottes nouvelles. Clear soup with slices of young carrots. Raie a la noisette. Fillets of skate. Oreilles de veau aux champignons. Calf s ears with mushrooms. Pintades roties. Roast guinea-fowl. Coquilles d'ceufs aux huttres. Scolloped eggs and oysters. Tourte k la frangipane. Frangipane tart. Fillets of skate. Boil two fine fillets of skate in salt and water, drain and place on a dish. Blanch and pound the liver of the skate, stir it into butter sauce (see 2 2nd of January), flavour with a tea- spoonful of tarragon vinegar and a pinch of grated nutmeg, and pour over the fillets. Scolloped egga and oysters. Melt some fresh butter, season with salt, pepper, a pinch of grated nutmeg, chopped parsley, chives, and morels; cook four dozen oysters in this sauce, and, when nearly done, add five or six sliced hard-boiled eggs, simmer over a slow fire for a quarter of an hour; pour into scollop shells, sprinkle with grated bread-crust, and brown in the oven. Frangipane. An Italian prince called Caesar Frangipane is said to have given his name to this cream or custard, which is generally used for filling open tarts, dariole cakes, or tartlets. Take two whole eggs and four yolks, stir into sufficient potato flour to make a thick sauce, after which add two pints of milk or cream. Warm over a slow fire, stir until it boils, add a quarter of a pound of melted butter or beef marrow, continue stirring until quite thick, and flavour with vanilla. Cook in a bain-marie. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 129 MAY 8. Potage aux choux verts. Spring cabbage soup. Turbot sauce bechamel. Turbot, bechamel sauce. Lapereaux au chasseur. Young rabbits au chasseur. Rosbif a 1'anglaise. Roast beef. Morilles aux croutons. Morels on toast. Creme au chocolat. Chocolate cream. Spring cabbage soup. Prepare the same as cabbage soup (see 25th of February). Yoitng rabbits au chasseur. Cut up your rabbits into joints, and warm in a stew-pan over a quick fire, with some butter, chopped ham, parsley, onions, and chives, a crushed head of garlic, a bouquet of mixed herbs, salt and pepper; sprinkle with flour ; when brown, moisten with equal quantities of white wine and stock, add two small basketsful of chopped mushrooms, and leave on the fire until the sauce is quite thick. Remove the bouquet of herbs before serving. Morels on toast. Warm some morels in butter, seasoned with parsley and chives, stir in a teaspoonful of flour, moisten with stock, and reduce, remove the parsley and chives, thicken the sauce with yolks of egg and cream, and sweeten with a little sugar. Cut a slice of crust off a long, light roll, butter it on both sides, toast over a quick fire, place on a dish with the crumb side upwards, and fill with the stewed morels. 13o THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. MAY 9. Potage a la parisienne. Parisian soup. Colin frit. Fried whiting pollock. Gigot a la Durand. Leg of mutton a la Durand. Pate de becassines. Snipe pie. CEufs brouilles aux pointes d'as- Buttered eggs with asparagus heads. perges. Pommes au riz. Stewed apples and rice. Fried whiting pollock. This fish, which is a species of cod, is most wrongfully neglected, and if prepared in the following manner will be found excellent. Cut up your fish into slices about one and a half inches thick, soak for two hours in olive oil seasoned with salt, pepper, and mixed herbs; warm three tablespoonsful of olive oil in a frying-pan, fry the slices of fish in it over a slow fire ; when done, drain, place in a dish and keep warm in the oven; squeeze the juice of a lemon into the oil remaining in the frying-pan, season with salt and pepper, beat well with a fork, which will thicken the sauce, pour over the slices of whiting pollock, and serve. Stewed apples and rice. Peel and scoop out the cores of some fine russet apples, simmer in clarified sugar until stewed. Blanch your rice and boil in milk, keep it firm by adding the milk gradually, sweeten with sugar, stir in a pinch of salt; when done, pour into a dish, place the apples on the rice, fill all the spaces between the fruit with rice, and brown in the oven. Serve very hot. THE 366 BILLS OF FARE. 131 MAY 10. MENU EN MAIGRE. BILL OF FARE FOR FAST DAY- Potage a la puree de navets. Puree of turnips. Soles a la parisienne. Soles a la parisienne. Vol-au-vent de quenelles de poisson. Vol-au-vent of fish quenelles. Homard a la broche. Roast lobster. Asperges a la sauce blanche. Asparagus with white sauce. Talmouses a la Saint-Denis. Cheese biscuits a la Saint-Denis. Soles a la Parisieune. Scrape and clean out your soles, cut off the heads and tails, and toss in a sautapan with sufficient fresh butter to cover them, sprinkle with chopped parsley, chives, salt and pepper; turn the fish, and when cooked, dish up covered with Italian sauce. Cheese biscuits a la Saint-Denis. Take a large handful of fine wheaten flour, half a pound of cream curds, five ounces of Brie cheese, which has been care- fully scraped, and a pinch of salt, pound in a mortar, add five ounces of melted butter, stir in sufficient eggs to make a thick paste, which roll very thin, and cut out into small round biscuits. Bake in a quick oven, and serve hot. Garlic butter. Pound six heads of garlic and pass through a' tammy; pound with three ounces of butter until a thick cream. K 2 132. THE 366 HILLS OF FARE. MAY n. Potage k la julienne. Julienne soup. Saumon grille. Broiled salmon. Rosbif garni de rissoles. Roast beef garnished with rissoles. Poulets rotis. Roast fowls. Chicoree au jus. Stewed chicory. Gelee au citron Lemon jelly. Broiled salmon. Cut the tail of a salmon into slices, soak for an hour in olive oil, season with parsley, mixed herbs, laurel-leaves, salt and pepper; broil