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GOOD-LIVING
A PRACTICAL COOKERY-BOOK
FOR TOWN AND COUNTRY
BY
SARA VAN BUREN BRUGIÈRE
SECOND EDITION, WITH ADDITIONAL MATERIAL
“ We may live without poetry, music, and art ;
We may live without conscience and live without heart;
We may live without friends; we may live without books ;
But civilized man cannot live without cooks.
“ He may live without books—what is knowledge but grieving?
He may live without hope-what is hope but deceiving?
He may live without love-what is passion but pii
But where is the man that can live without dining
“Lucile"-OWEN MEREDITH.
G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS
NEW YORK
LONDON
37 AND 29 West TWENTY-THIRD STREET
24 BEDFORD STREET, STRAND
Lili90)


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PUBLIC LIP ARY.
160182B
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COPYRIGHT 1890 BY
SARA VAN BUREN BRUGIÈRE
Tbe knickerbocker Press, Pew York



PREFACE.
IT is proposed, in this present work, to make an attempt
to carry the simplicity and exactness of the science of cook-
ery one step forward, and thus contribute toward bringing
this most excellent and necessary branch of chemistry (of
which cooking certainly forms a part) into the more imme-
diate and practical use of our own households. It is most
earnestly desired to help house-keepers to set forth a dainty
table at moderate outlay, and to give them receipts so clearly
and accurately explained that the percentage of success shall
be materially increased—granted that the same house-keeper
or her cook shall bring to the undertaking an average amount
of intelligence; for, no matter how much pains any writer or
compiler of cookery-books may take to make receipts clear
and practical, the same necessity exists as that recognized
by the great painter, who, when asked how he mixed his
colors, replied, " With brains, sir."
There has been, within the last few years, a marked im-
provement in the designation of the various ingredients and
their quantities to be used in the preparation of dishes; it
is much less common nowadays than formerly to be told to
"take some " of this, that, or the other, thereby leaving the
chance of success entirely dependent upon the accident of
guessing happily, or otherwise, at the relative proportion of
the component parts of dishes. The noticeable improve-
ment in this respect is already a stride taken in the right
direction, and receives full consideration in the present work.
It is frequently found to be a stumbling-block to the suc-
cess of a dish that the time for the fire to do its work is not
iii


iv
PREFACE.
specified. This last must be recognized by all as being a most
important factor in the case. Of course, it is often impossi-
ble to lay down fixed rules on this subject; but it is possible
to give an approximate idea—to give an average of time,
which shall be dependent only to a certain extent upon con-
comitant circumstances, notably upon the heat of the fire;
this latter depending, not upon the maker of the cookery-
book, but upon the maker of the fire. Surely, with experi-
ence to guide, and an earnest desire to throw light upon this
important point, we ought and must be able to improve upon
the old-fashioned " cook until done "; which form of phrase
conveys to the amateur, or to the inexperienced cook, no idea
whatsoever as to whether allowance should be made of six
hours or six minutes for the fire to do its share in the prepa-
ration of the dish to be served. This, therefore, is the point
to which much study has been devoted, for decisions upon
which the best authorities have been consulted, and unlimited
tests made, with, it is believed, results that will be of sub-
stantial service to many struggling souls.
Especial attention has been given to our conventional,
simple, home dishes, which, as a rule, are not sufficiently
noticed; it being taken for granted, apparently, that, on ac-
count of their simplicity, directions are unnecessary. This
mistake causes the results which are witnessed daily; the
simpler the thing, the worse it is done. Take, for example,
tea. How very easy it is to make, and yet how many are
there who make it really well? Another example: In one
instance met with, the subject of " Roast Beef " is disposed
of with about half a dozen lines as to the cooking, a few
more as to the serving and remarks—leaving, practically, the
whole success to the brain and experience, or ^-experience,
of the cook. Now if the cook knows, she requires no re-
ceipt; if, on the other hand, she is ignorant and requires a
receipt, it should certainly be a full and clear one, from which
she can work with the fairest chance of success; failing to
find this, the result, nine times out of ten, is badly roasted
beef. For these reasons, the receipts for roasting meats,


PREFACE.
V
poultry, game, etc., have been most carefully studied, even in
the smallest detail. There is a trite old saying to the effect
that " If a thing is worth doing at all, it is worth doing well " •,
to nothing does it apply more correctly than to the question
of cooking; therefore, even in the least of these receipts,
pains have not been spared to enable the cook, be she ama-
teur or otherwise, to turn out, no matter how simple the
menu, dishes that shall be successful, appetizing, and com-
plete.
An effort has been made to save from the general fate, a
number of good, old-fashioned receipts, which are gradually
being elbowed out, and their place taken by elegant novel-
ties which have, perhaps, not a fractional part of their relish
to recommend them. But attention is called to the fact that,
while plain, old-fashioned dishes have their place and share in
the present book, it is far from being devoted solely to them.
This work is not designed for chefs de cuisine, but for that
large class of house-keepers who have a proper appreciation
of the value of " Good-Living " as being, obviously, conducive
to health and domestic happiness. For young house-keepers,
who have their experience to gain; it is sincerely hoped that
this present will assist them to purchase that same experience
at the expense of far fewer failures in the way of dinners,
far less outlay and waste of good materials, and far less use-
less expenditure of nerve-force. Also, for the young cook,
who has a worthy desire to improve herself. It has, there-
fore, been made a rule to admit no receipt which does not
bring with it as recommendation, first of all, acceptability;
then simplicity of execution, and, possibly not least impor-
tant consideration, moderate outlay—to furnish the best for
the least cost—a good cuisine, and, at the same time, an
economical one. To this end have been eschewed all fanci-
fully-extravagant receipts, calling for condiments which are
not habitually in use, or for an excessive quantity of any
very expensive materials. As there are many books where
receipts of this latter class may be found, it has been deemed
unadvisable to add one to that vast collection.


vi
PREFACE.
An earnest endeavor has been made to collect a series of
dishes to please all palates, the gourmet's included. There
will, therefore, be found a large number of receipts for the
daintiest tastes, selected from many countries, to suit the
various requirements of our cosmopolitan community. End-
less researches have been necessary to select these receipts
from the most approved sources, those from other countries
being dishes for which one or other land is famous. As the
French cuisine is recognized as being the first of all, many
receipts are taken from that source, adapting many of its
methods to our requirements. In the same way, Belgium,
that land of solid good-living, second, only, in excellence to
France, has been taxed for contribution to our work. Eng-
land, Germany, Italy, Holland, Denmark, etc., etc., all contri-
bute something.
From our home cuisine are selected the best and most
popular dishes of the Eastern States; those again of Phila.
delphia, that paradise of terrapin and kindred good things;
from Baltimore and the South, many of the excellent dishes
so well prepared by the negro cooks; and from further
South still, we have the many delicious receipts furnished by
the Creole school of cookery.
This outline will convey a slight idea of the enormous field
that has been gone over, and authorities consulted, among
whom are:
Urbain-Dubois, " Cuisine Classique."
Audot, " Cuisiniere de la Campagne et de la Ville."
Caudelier, " Cuisine Economique."
Pierre Caron, " French Dishes for American Tables."
Careme.
Gouffe.
Soyer.
Mrs. Reeve, " Cookery and House-Keeping."
Mrs. Beeton, " Modern Household Cookery."
Miss Leslie, " Complete Cookery."
Kensington School, " Lessons in Cookery."
Mrs. Henderson, "Practical Cooking and Dinner-Giving."


PREFACE.
vfi
"In the Kitchen."
Marion Harland, " Common-Sense in the Household."
"""Breakfast, Luncheon, and Tea."
Mrs. Rorer, "Philadelphia Cook Book."
Miss Corson, "School Text-Book."
"Cooking Manual."
Miss Parloa.
Etc., Etc., Etc.
There is given a "Time-Table" for meats, one for poul-
try and game, and one for vegetables. This is believed to
be a novelty, and one that will supply a long-felt want; and
should be of great assistance, as the tables have been pre-
pared with infinite pains, research, and tests innumerable.
There is also given a "Table of Comparative Weights
and Measures," which will be found useful in the kitchen.
A chapter of "Relishes for Breakfast" has been added,
which, it is hoped, will serve as an aid to the house-keeper
in making out her bill-of-fare for that meal; oftentimes
a weariness to the spirit after the labor of planning for
luncheon and dinner.
The chapter of " Stray Notes," contains, as its title implies,
notes on various household subjects, which may be of prac-
tical service. There are directions for the " Order of Service
of Dinner," which will be found very useful in making out
menus. Also will be found, wherever it is deemed appro-
priate, the French as well as the English names of dishes.
As a rule, the receipts are based upon the requirements of
a family of average size—that is, six to eight persons.
Acknowledgments are tendered to those authors from
whose works have been taken some of the following receipts;
as also to the many private sources which have contributed
so generously to the collection.






DETTE
Det
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
PAGE
iii
U16
1.-PREFACE. . . . . . .
II.–TABLE OF COMPARATIVE WEIGHTS AND MEAS-
URES. . . . . . . . .
III.-SOUPS, PURÉES, AND SOUPS WITHOUT MEAT.
IV.-GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR FRYING
V.-FISH . . . . . . . .
VI.-SHELL-Fish .
VII.-TIME-TABLE FOR COOKING MEATS .
VIII.—DIRECTIONS FOR KEEPING MEATS WARM AND
. RE-HEATING . .
IX.—BEEF . . .
X.—MUTTON AND LAMB
XI.—VEAL . . . . . . . . 132
XII. - PORK .
164
XIII.-TIME-TABLE FOR COOKING GAME AND POUL-
TRY · · · · ·
XIV. -POULTRY . . . . . . . . 175
XV.-GAME . . . . . . . . 205
XVI.-MACARONI AND ENTRÉES NOT OTHERWISE
CLASSIFIED.
XVII.-FORCE-MEATS, GARNISHES, ETC. . . .
XVIII.–SAUCES .
XIX.-TIME-TABLE FOR COOKING VEGETABLES 264
XX.— VEGETABLES . . . . . . 265
XXI.–SALADS AND DRESSINGS . . . . . 324
XXII.-SAVORY RELISHES . . . . . . 340
XXIII. -ORDER OF SERVICE OF A DINNER . . . 345
XXIV.—RELISHES FOR BREAKFAST
. . . 347
XXV.-EGGS . . . . . . . . 350
174
224
243


TABLE OF CONTENTS.
CHAPTER
PAGE
XXVI.—BUTTER, CHEESE, ETC...
369
XXVII.-BREAD, BISCUIT, AND BREAKFAST CAKES · 373
XXVIII.-CAKES . . . . .
. 394
XXIX.-ICINGS AND FILLINGS FOR CAKES.
. 419
XXX.—Pastry, Pies, AND PUDDINGS . . . 423
XXXI.-PUDDING SAUCES . . .
. 450
XXXII.—DESSERTS, JELLIES, CREAMS, FRITTERS, Cus-
TARDS, ETC.
: 454
XXXIII.-ICE-CREAMS AND WATER-ICES
. 490
XXXIV.-PRESERVES AND CANDIES
505
XXXV.-PICKLES, CATSUPS, ETC. .
515
XXXVI.-BEVERAGES, ETC. . .
· 522
XXXVII.—COOKERY FOR INVALIDS .
. 529
XXXVIII.-STRAY NOTES . .
· 532
SUPPLEMENTARY RECEIPTS. .
CHAFING-DISH RECEIPTS .
564
INDEX . . . . . . . . . . 573
INDEX TO SUPPLEMENTARY RECEIPTS
605
INDEX TO CHAFING-DISH RECEIPTS . . . . . 606
. 548






TABLE OF COMPARATIVE WEIGHTS AND
MEASURES.
16 ounces equal
I quart of sifted flour"
I quart of powdered sugar"
I quart of granulated sugar"
I closely-packed pint of butter"
10 moderate-sized eggs"
3 cups of sugar"
5 cups of sifted flour"
Butter, size of an egg about
Butter, size of a walnut"
I tablespoonful of butter"
Average weight of a good-sized egg"
I pint of water or fruit juice"
I sherry glass = Y gill.
I wineglass = I gill.
1 cup = about Y pint or 2 gills.
5 sherry or whiskey bottles to I gallon.
4 gills = I pint, 2 pints = I quart, 4 quarts = 1 gallon.
60 drops = 1 teaspoonful, 2 teaspoonfuls = 1 dessertspoonful.
4 teaspoonfuls = 1 tablespoonful.
2 dessertspoonfuls = 1 tablespoonful.
1 tumbler = % pint or 2 gills.
2 saltspoons = I teaspoon (dry).
lb.



GOOD-LIVING.
SOUPS, PUREES, AND SOUPS WITHOUT MEAT.
GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING SOUP.
Put the meat, water, pepper, and salt into a large-soup-
kettle. (An old hen may be substituted for the shin of veal.)
Keep it where it will come slowly to a boil, I hour; then
draw it forward, and bring it to a good boil; skim as the
scum rises; in another hour add the vegetables, etc.; boil
very gently, but incessantly for about 10 hours, making in all
about 12 hours of cooking.
Too much stress cannot be laid upon the importance of
these two great essentials to the making of good soup:
First, never let the soup stop boiling for one instant: Never
add water, once the soup is started. Neither, on the other
hand, must you let the soup boil at a racking rate, or it will
be muddy, and you will lose a great deal by evaporation.
If the fire needs replenishing, have your cook feed first one
CONSOMME.
8 lbs. shin of beef,
10 quarts of water,
3 or 4 large carrots,
4 large onions,
1o allspice,
I head of celery,
Whole shin of veal,
Salt and pepper,
3 leeks,
6 cloves,
I cup of tomatoes or a handful of sorrel,
Bunch of parsley.


2
GOOD-LIVING.
side, then the other, when the first is well ignited. These
rules are very simple, surely, but it will be found extremely
difficult to make the ordinary cook, of the style we have in
America, respect or appreciate them, unless by patience and
repetition on the part of the house-keeper. The best soup
in the world, no matter how much good material has been
put into it, will be rendered insipid, flat, and tasteless by the
infraction of any of these rules. Take them to heart: call
them the "Golden Rules" of soup-making, and you will
have learned a secret which you can impart to your sister-
house-keepers, with the secure sense of conferring a benefit
upon poor soup-loving, long-suffering humanity.
As your soup must boil a long time, I have chosen this
opportunity for a little dissertation on soup-making, which
will be equally well applied to many of the following receipts.
This receipt for Consomme, and those for Bouillon and
Pot-au-feu are the " mother soups," so to speak, and therefore
there cannot be too much pains on my part, nor too much
patience on yours, to make them clearly understood, ex-
plained, and studied. Learn to make these reliably and
thoroughly well, and one great step has been taken toward
the setting forth of a good dinner.
When your soup has boiled gently for its prescribed time,
take it off; strain it into a large bowl and set it away until
next day. Then remove the fat from the surface (this makes
excellent drippings); pour off all the clear part into a sauce-
pan, and boil again for I or 2 hours. Then remove it from
the fire. This will make a stiff jelly which will keep in win-
ter for several days in the ice-box. It will serve also to make
a handsome Brown Sauce (Espagnole). The best way to keep
it, is to divide it in parts, allowing a certain quantity for
each day, then that one part is used without disturbing the
rest. Yellow earthenware pitchers holding I to 2 quarts
each will be found the best to put it in. Use the thick part
of the soup with vegetables, or other puree. If you have
the carcass of a raw chicken, or any raw beef-bones, they can
be added when the soup is first put down; but cooked meat


GILT-EDGED BOUILLON.
3
or bones, unless freed from every particle of fat or meat, will
muddy the soup.
This soup requires no artificial coloring.
The above, sufficiently boiled down in an uncovered sauce-
pan, will make an excellent Glaze. (See receipt for same.)
GILT-EDGED BOUILLON.
This receipt gives the proportions for one quart of bouillon
sufficiently concentrated for the use of invalids. The same
proportions may be used, but not boiled quite as long, for
dinners, luncheons, etc., etc. For the former purpose, that is
for illness, where the quantity administered is required to be
as nutritious as possible, it is decidedly better not to clear it
any more than by passing it through a fine strainer. Ex-
perience has proved quite satisfactorily the fact that the
process of clearing destroys a great deal, not only of the
more delicate flavor, but also of the nutriment contained in
the bouillon. The two "Golden Rules" of soup-making
will require repetition very often before we succeed in get-
ting our consommes and bouillons properly made: Never
let the soup cease boiling when once it has begun: Never
add water after your ingredients are once put together and
begin to boil.
The following receipt is the result of much personal study
and observation, with a view to two things: First, success;
then simplicity; once made, literally according to directions,
it should never fail.
3 lbs. of beef without bone or fat,
3 quarts of cold water,
I scant cup of fresh or canned tomatoes,
I small bay-leaf,
I piece of red-pepper pod, about ^
inch (without seeds),
3 or 4 cloves,
6 or 8 allspice,
I small teaspoon of salt,
I clove of garlic (this can be omitted
for the sick),
I level teaspoon of celery seed.
The beef should be as freshly killed as possible, and pref-


4
GOOD-LIVING.
erably of the cut known by the butchers as the " horse-
Put the above ingredients into the soup-kettle, cover, and
bring to a boil; when boiling smartly, set aside where it will
simmer steadily; do not let it rack. After 2^ hours, add:
Replace the cover, leaving the top at least ^ open. Boil
again 2£ hours, making 5 hours of actual boiling in all.
Now taste it. If not strong enough, boil longer until satis-
factory. No exact time nearer than the above can be given,
as circumstances (the amount and rapidity of evaporation,
etc., etc.) will vary. When cooked to your taste, strain all
the broth off through a hair-sieve into a bowl. At this stage
it should measure a full quart (always speaking of that to be
used for the sick); or about 3 pints for dinner use. Stand it
away until next morning. Then remove every particle of
grease from the surface. If you are satisfied not to clarify
it, carefully pour off the upper portion; do not shake the
bowl or disturb the sediment. Add about 2 tablespoonfuls
of sherry, some salt, celery-salt (if necessary), and cayenne.
This will now measure, wine included, a scant quart.
To clarify the Bouillon, after removing the fat, pour it
into a very clean kettle, add to it the unbeaten white of 1
egg, also the crushed shell; stir these into the cold soup un-
til well mixed. Set it on the fire, and from the time it breaks
into a boil, let it cook steadily for 10 minutes (longer will re-
duce the soup, and make it still stronger). Stand it on the
hearth for 3 or 4 minutes to settle; then pour it through a
jelly-bag, made of well-shrunken flannel. Do not squeeze
the bag, but allow it to drip to the last drop. Then add the
above amount of sherry, with seasonings as directed. This
soup requires no artificial coloring, its own strength and long
boiling producing a beautiful tint.
shoe.
I medium-sized carrot cut in pieces,
I onion cut in pieces,
1 sprig of thyme,
1 bunch of parsley and celery (if you
have not already used seed).


POT-AU-FEU.
s
POT-AU-FEU.
3 pounds of lean beef,
Pinch of salt,
2 turnips, small,
2 leeks,
Bunch of parsley,
2 whole cloves,
4 allspice,
Small piece of lemon-peel,
4 quarts cold water,
2 carrots,
I parsnip,
Bunch of celery leaves,
I bay-leaf,
I clove of garlic,
Small piece of red-pepper pod,
I cup of stewed tomatoes.
The best cut for this is from the round, lower end, called
the " horse-shoe " piece by the butchers. It is important to
have lean beef, and that it should be as freshly killed as may
be. Put down the beef, water, salt, and spices. Bring gently
to a boil. Skim well. Set back where it will keep on a
gentle, but very steady boil. After 2 hours, when the soup
is well skimmed, add the vegetables, and continue to boil for
5 or 6 hours. The essentials for making good, strong, tasty
broth, are two, namely: Never let it cease boiling; and never,
under any circumstance, add water to your soup during the
cooking. Observe these rules most strictly. This receipt
will give you an excellent soup for family use. If you wish
to have it perfectly clear, refer to the receipt for Clearing
Soups. If you will strain off the broth when done, through
a fine sieve, and set it away in a cool place, the next day,
after removing the fat, you will be able to pour off carefully
the top, leaving all the sediment to be used in thick soups;
in which case you can generally dispense with the clearing
process, which, unless done by the use of raw beef (an extra
expense), destroys the nutritious quality of your broth.
In France, the day the Pot-au-feu is freshly made, it is
served with small squares of dry bread put in the tureen,
and the hot soup thrown over them at the moment of serv-
ing; the vegetables, which have been boiled in the broth,
are handed around on a separate dish. Cabbage may be
added to the above receipt, with great benefit to the flavor,
but it prevents the broth from keeping very long—otherwise
this Pot-au-feu can be set on the ice, and kept for several


6 GOOD-LINING.
days in winter. This broth does not require coloring if
boiled long enough.
In Italy, grated cheese is served with the above, each guest
taking one teaspoonful in his soup-plate. Any cooked meat
added to the soup-pot will make the broth less clear.
The beef cooked in the broth becomes the French
Bouilli (see receipt). In this case, it should weigh at least
six pounds, cooked in the above proportions.
COLORING FOR SOUPS.
An excellent preparation which can be kept on hand for
coloring soups, is the following:
Take an earthen jar; fill it to the top, first with a layer of
onions, one whole clove stuck in each, then a layer of soft
sugar, a small piece of butter, and so on until the jar is filled.
Put this into the oven overnight, when the fire is allowed to go
out. Repeat this every night until the onions have cooked
down, and a dark syrup is formed. Two nights may be suf-
ficient, according to the fire. Put your jar aside, and use a
few drops at a time to color soups, gravies, etc. There are
few simpler or more satisfactory receipts than this; but the
best color for soups is that produced by good materials and
long boiling.
CLEARING SOUPS.
Never use whites of eggs for the purpose, unless as a mat-
ter of economy and convenience, as this process injures the
delicacy of the flavor. But if preferred, do so in the follow-
ing manner: Stir into the cold soup, I or more whites of
eggs, • according to the quantity to be clarified; crush the
shells and add to the soup. Bring to a boil; then boil
rapidly for 10 minutes. Stand the kettle on the hearth for
IO minutes, then strain through a flannel bag. The white of
I egg will suffice for about 3 pints of broth.
The following is recommended as being the better method:


AMBER CONSOMMA.
7
To 2 quarts of stock, allow f of a pound of lean beef, chopped
fine. Put it into a stewpan with the stock and some of its
vegetables. Stir until it begins to boil. Draw to side of the
range and simmer gently for 30 minutes. Then strain twice
through a fine cloth. If clear soups are much used in your
household, one or two bags made of flannel, which has been
washed frequently until well shrunken, will be found very
useful. Attach a tape to each side of the bag, and suspend
it by them to two chairs. Place a bowl under to catch the
soup. This will save much trouble, and make your stock of
the clearest. (See Gilt-edged Bouillon.)
AMBER CONSOMME-.
CONSOMME DOR6.
I large soup bone, 1 chicken, cleaned,
1 slice of ham, 1 onion,
2 sprigs of parsley, ^ small carrot,
Yx small parsnip, ^ head of celery,
3 cloves, 1 gallon of water,
Salt and pepper, 2 eggs, whites and shells.
Put the chicken, beef, and ham into a pot with the cold
water, and boil slowly for 5 hours, covered. Fry the onion
in a little butter or drippings, and add it and all the vegeta-
bles and all the seasonings. Boil 2 hours longer. Strain
into an earthen bowl, and set away overnight. Next day
remove the fat from the top; take out the jelly, leaving the
thickest part of the sediment (which will do to put into a
thick soup); mix in the shells and whites of eggs. Boil
quickly for 10 minutes; then place the kettle on the hearth
for 10 minutes to settle. Pour the soup through the jelly
bag. It should come out perfectly clear, of a very pretty
golden brown color. Do not squeeze the bag. If the soup is
not clear, pass it through again until clear. Use the brightest
and cleanest of kettles, and scald your sieve each time you
use it, or the particles will wash off again into the soup.
Serve for dinner-parties, luncheons, etc. Garnish to taste.
Do not use any artificial coloring.


8
GOOD-LIVING.
BROTH MADE IN ONE HOUR.
BOUILLON FAIT EN UNE HEURE.
I lb. of beef,
I carrot, cut fine,
I onion,""
Small piece of fat pork, chopped,
2 gills of cold water,
I pint of boiling water.
Put all except the boiling water into a stewpan. Stew
15 minutes, until it begins to cling to the sides. Then add
the boiling water. Boil 45 minutes. Strain, squeezing the
meat well. Season with pepper, salt, and celery-salt. Serve.
Is made by cutting vegetables fine, frying in butter, add-
ing boiling water enough for the soup; salt and pepper, and
enough of Liebig's Extract to give color and strength.
When one is disappointed by the butcher, this is a resource
not to be despised.
Simmer gently, chicken, salt and water, until the scum
rises. Skim. Add other ingredients. Boil gently 2 hours.
Skim all fat and serve. Or, better still, set aside until next
day, then all grease may be more thoroughly removed. For
invalids, serve with slices of toast. The chicken will serve
for many receipts. (See Chicken Croquettes, Chicken Salad,
etc., etc.)
ANOTHER HASTY BROTH
CHICKEN CONSOMME'.
CONSOMME DE VOLAILLE.
One old fowl, cut in pieces,
2 quarts of cold water,
1 carrot,
I turnip,
I stick of celery,
I onion,
Salt and pepper.
CONSOMME A LA ROYALE.
Yolks of 6 eggs,
Their bulk of cream,
Salt and pepper.
Mix the well-beaten yolks with a little more than their
bulk of cream or rich milk. Add salt and pepper. Pour it


GERMAN NOODLE SOUP.
into a small tin or earthen dish 1 or 2 inches deep, with
straight sides; place this in a second dish in which there is a
little boiling water, and bake in so moderate an oven that it
will neither bubble nor brown. Remove it from the oven
just as soon as it becomes firm. Let it get perfectly cold,
then cut it in £-inch slices, and these again into fancy
shapes with a vegetable cutter. Lay them in the tureen and
pour the clear, hot Consomme very gently over them. Allow
2 gills of Consomme, or Gilt-edged Bouillon (see receipts)
for each person.
CONSOMME' WITH MACARONI.
POTAGE AU MACARONI.
% lb. of macaroni, 2 quarts of Broth, or Consomm^.
Boil the macaroni, broken in 2-inch lengths, in salted
boiling water until almost tender—that is 10 or 15 min-
utes; drain very thoroughly and drop into boiling broth 10
minutes before serving. It must be very tender, but not
break. Serve with Parmesan cheese, grated.
TAPIOCA SOUP.
POTAGE AU TAPIOCA.
4 oz. of tapioca, 3 pints of Broth.
Sprinkle the tapioca (which is best when previously soaked
for a few hours) into the boiling soup. Stir frequently. It
will require about 40 minutes; perhaps less, if soaked before-
hand.
GERMAN NOODLE SOUP.
POTAGE DE NOUILLES, I.
Prepare the Noodles (see receipt); add them to boiling
Consomme (see receipt). Boil 15 minutes. Serve. Allow 2
gills of consomme per person.


to
GOOD-LIVING.
FRENCH NOODLE SOUP.
POTAGE DE NOUILLES, II.
Follow the directions given above, using French Noodles
(see receipt), and cooking them 30 minutes.
SWEDISH NOODLE SOUP.
POTAGE DE NOUILLES, III.
Prepare the Consomme as above, adding, at the moment of
serving, Swedish Noodles (see receipts).
CONSOMME' WITH POACHED EGGS.
CONSOMME AUX OiUFS POCHfiS.
o eggs, 3 pints of Consomme, or Gilt-edged Bouillon.
Drop the eggs, one by one, into "boiling salted water. A
frying-pan is best for the purpose. One tablespoonful of
vinegar may be added to the water. When the eggs are firm,
carefully remove with a spoon or perforated skimmer; lay in
cold water for a moment while you trim the edges evenly;
transfer to the tureen; pour the boiling soup very gently into
the tureen and serve. The allowance is 1 egg and 2 gills
of consomme per person.
N.B.—Do not allow the water to boil when once the eggs
are in it, but draw the pan to one side of the range and
cook rather slowly until firm. The jumping of the boiling
water makes the edges of the eggs ragged.
SAGO SOUP.
POTAGE AU SAGOU.
2 oz. of sago, 3 pints of Broth or Consomme.
Wash well and drop into boiling broth. Boil 1 hour,
stirring occasionally.
N.B.—This is improved by soaking the sago overnight,
draining, and then boiling in the soup. In this case, less
time is required in cooking.


RICE SOUP.
II
ARROWROOT SOUP.
4 teaspoonfuls of arrowroot, 3 pints of Broth or Consomme*.
Rub the arrowroot to a smooth paste with a little of the
cold broth; stir it into the boiling broth and continue stirring
for 20 minutes, until perfectly transparent.
This excellent addition to clear soup is not sufficiently used
or appreciated.
VERMICELLI SOUP.
CONSOMME OU POTAGE AU VERMICELLE.
I oz. of vermicelli to each person, 2 gills of Broth or Consomme to each
person.
Break the vermicelli in pieces. Boil until nearly cooked in
boiling water and salt. This will require about 15 minutes.
Add it, when well drained, to the boiling broth. Boil until
perfectly tender, 20 or 25 minutes in all. Serve.
SOUP WITH ITALIAN PASTES.
CONSOMME OU POTAGE AUX PATES D'lTALIE.
Same rule and proportions as above. The pastes may
require a little longer to cook.
RICE SOUP.
SOUPE AU RIZ.
4 heaping tablespoons of rice, 3 pints of Broth or Consomme.
Wash the rice in 3 waters. Rub it dry. Put it in a
saucepan with I pint of cold broth. When swelled and
heated, add another pint of boiling broth, and finally the rest
of the boiling broth, when the rice is tender. This will muddy
the soup slightly. Rice takes about 22 minutes from the
moment when it breaks into a boil.


ti
GOOD-LIVING.
FARINA SOUP.
POTAGE A LA SEMOULE.
2 oz. of farina, 3 pints of Broth or Consomme.
To the boiling broth add the farina gradually, stirring con-
stantly with a wooden spoon. Boil 25 minutes and serve.
JULIENNE SOUP.
POTAGE A LA JULIENNE.
Observe the relative proportions of the following vege-
tables:
X lb. of carrot, 2 oz. of leek,
% lb. of turnip, 2 oz. of onion,
oz. of celery,
Cut in thin, long shreds, and throw into a bowl of cold
water as you cut them; then drain. Fry in butter until
golden brown; drain off the butter and add a little stock
to cover; let it nearly boil; then add this to the amount of
stock or broth required and simmer gently for 2 hours.
Allow 2 gills of broth per person. You may add either
asparagus-tips, fresh young peas, or lettuce cut into narrow
strips; but these must be boiled apart until tender in weak
stock or plain water, then added to the soup. Serve with
the vegetables.
POTAGE CROUTE-AU-POT.
I turnip, cut fine, 8 pieces of dried toast or ^ rolls,
I carrot, >"" 2 quarts of good Consomme.
1 stick of celery, cut fine,
Parboil the vegetables in salted boiling water. When ten-
der, drain well and add them to \ quarts of boiling consomme.
simmer until very tender. Meanwhile, put the toasts inti
a saucepan with enough strong consomme (reduced is eve;
better) to cover them. Simmer gently until the toasts have


CALF'S-HEAD SOUP.
absorbed all the consomme and begin to dry up; then add
a- little hot consomme to detach them from the saucepan.
Lay them in a tureen and pour the soup with vegetables
very gently over them. Serve immediately, before the
toasts begin to go to pieces. This is one of the most pop-
ular and excellent of the French soups.
N. B.—Follow the directions for the toasts very carefully.
CALF'S-HEAD SOUP.
I calf s head, I knuckle of veal,
6 onions, sliced, Pepper and salt,
I teaspoon of ground allspice, Butter,
% " " " cloves, Lemon and sherry.
FOR THE BALLS.
Brains of the head, I onion, chopped,
r tablespoon of parsley, chopped, Cracker-dust.
Put the head (well-cleaned, as directed in receipt for Mock-
Turtle Soup No. I.) and knuckle of veal into a large soup,
kettle J full of cold water. Reserve the brains to prepare
later. Add to the soup-kettle the onions and simmer gently
until the veal-knuckle is perfectly cooked and tender, but not
in pieces. Remove this from the pot and set aside to use
(see Browned Knuckle of Veal). Let the calf's head con-
tinue to boil until the meat begins to fall from the bones;
then take it out. Remove all the bones and the eyes.
Skin the tongue; cut it and all the meat into small pieces.
Season with salt, pepper, and the spices. Strain the soup;
return to the fire and thicken with flour that has been
browned over the fire with a little butter, allowing about 2
tablespoonfuls of flour to I quart of soup. Stir and boil
up. Add the meat; bring it to a boil, then pour all into a
bowl and set away until next day.
To make the balls, parboil the brains, chop the onion and
parsley, and stir all together with a knife. Then make them
up into small balls, with just enough of the same browned
flour to make them sufficiently solid to fry. Dip them in


14 GOOD-LIVING.
cracker-dust; fry in butter until brown, and set away until
required.
Next day, skim the fat from the top of the soup, put it on
the fire and bring it to a boil. Put the balls into the tureen,
pour the boiling soup gently over them and serve. Each
guest adds lemon-juice and sherry to his taste, for which
purpose, cut the lemon into small sections and hand it with
the soup. This is an old-fashioned Philadelphia receipt and
highly recommended.
MOCK-TURTLE SOUP NO. I.
SOUPE A LA TORTUE I.
I calf s head, 2 tablespoons of butter,
I lb. of calf's liver, 3 quarts of cold water,
I calf's heart, 4 even tablespoons of flour,
I bay-leaf, I" " mushroom catsup,
I carrot, 1" " Worcestershire sauce,
I onion, 2 hard-boiled eggs,
12 cloves, 1 lemon,
I turnip, Salt and pepper to taste,
Bunch of soup herbs, I gill of sherry.
Have the butcher crack the head; remove the brains.
Wash the head thoroughly in cold water. Pour boiling
water through the nose and throat-passages until perfectly
clean. Scrape out and wash very carefully the ears. Then
rinse again in cold water. The head must be perfectly sweet
and clean before putting it down to cook. Put it in a kettle
with the cold water; put the kettle over a moderate fire.
When it comes to a good boil, skim. After 15 minutes,
skim again. Let it simmer, not boil hard, until the meat is
quite tender, which will be in about 2 hours. Remove
the head; take the meat from the bones, skin the tongue
and set away to cool. Return the bones to the kettle with
the vegetables, cleaned and sliced, also the spices, liver, and
herbs. Simmer gently again for 2 hours. Strain and set
away overnight. Set aside the liver and heart to cool with
the other meat. Next day remove the fat from the soup.


MOCK-TURTLE SOUP.
Put the butter in a saucepan; when melted, add the flour
and stir until nicely browned (not burned); then add the
boiling soup by degrees, stirring constantly. Boil and stir
5 minutes. Cut the meat of the head into dice, also half
the liver; add them to the soup; bring to a boil once. Re-
move the saucepan from the fire, and add the catsups, salt,
pepper, and wine. Have the eggs and lemon sliced in the
tureen, pour the soup over them and serve. If you wish to
add force-meat balls, see receipt for same.
N.B.—If the head is a large one, half of the meat will be
sufficient to cut up. You can reserve, then, the tongue
with the brains to make another dish.
MOCK-TURTLE SOUP NO. II.
SOUPE A LA TORTUE II.
I calf's head,
1 gallon of cold water,
2 carrots,
Bunch of soup herbs,
Juice of one lemon,
4 calf's feet,
4 onions,
2 sticks of celery,
I gills of sherry,
Salt and cayenne.
Take the head with skin on; wash thoroughly and clean
as directed for Mock-Turtle Soup No. I.; remove brains and
tongue, which reserve for separate dish. Put the head and
calf's feet into a soup-kettle with the cold water. Remove the
scum as it rises and add the vegetables and herbs. When
boiled, until the flesh leaves the bones easily (about 3 hours),
take out the best parts and press them between 2 dishes
until cold. Remove the bones from the soup-kettle, leaving
the coarser parts of the meat. Simmer for 3 hours. Strain;
when cold, skim thoroughly.
Next day, cut the pressed meat into dice, and prepare Egg-
balls (as per receipt) as garnish for the soup. Flavor the
soup with the sherry and plenty of cayenne and lemon-juice.
Simmer with the meat in for 30 minutes. If egg-balls are
used, add them only a minute before serving.


1(5
GOOD-LIVING.
2 large onions,
2 leeks,
I carrot,
I turnip.
A SAVORY SOUP.
SOUPE DE LA BONNE MENAGERE.
3 or 4 sticks of celery, cut fine,
. „ ..... Bones of roasted beef, veal, or chicken,
cut hne and fr1ed 1n
butter Cornstarch (about I teaspoonful),
Bunch of parsley,
5 raw tomatoes or 1 large cup of stewed, Sprig of thyme,
Handful of cabbage, cut fine, Salt and pepper.
Fry the vegetables as directed. When brown, add a few
spoonfuls of boiling water, and stew for 15 or 20 minutes.
Now put them into the soup-kettle with the other ingredients
(reserving the cornstarch); add 2 quarts of boiling water.
Any good bones may be added or good bits of meat; the
latter should be cut fine. Cover and boil about 4 hours.
Take out the bones and any stems of thyme or parsley.
Stir in the cornstarch, blended with very little cold water;
boil 2 or 3 minutes until of the consistency of cream. When
the larder is low this will be found to be a most excellent
soup, far more tasty than many on which are lavished un-
limited materials.
N.B.—1 cupful of mashed potato may be used instead
of the cornstarch.
ECONOMICAL SOUP {ENGLISH RECEIPT).
Y lb. of solid, lean meat, cut in dice, 2 oz. of drippings,
^ lb. of onions, cut in pieces, 2 oz. of salt,
% lb. of turnips, """ % oz. of brown sugar,
2 oz. of leeks, "44" 6 quarts of water,
3 oz. of celery, """ Y lb. rice or pearl barley.
Put in a stewpan with the drippings, meat, onions, and
sugar; stir until fried a light brown. Then add turnips,
celery, leeks; stir for 10 minutes; add 1 quart of cold water
and the rice, and let it heat. To this put 5 quarts of boiling
water; stir. Simmer 5 hours. Skim when the scum rises.
Season to taste and serve.


BEEF AND OKRA SOUP.
LETTUCE SOUP.
POTAGE AUX LAITUES.
I large head of lettuce, Pepper and salt,
Butter the size of a walnut, Pinch of sugar,
30 drops of Tarragon vinegar, r egg,
1 gill of cream, Dice of stale bread,
1 teaspoon of flour, 3 pints of broth or water for 6 persons.
Chop up the lettuce, and stew it with a lump of butter,
pinch of sugar, and 30 drops of Tarragon vinegar. Keep
stirring and do not let it burn. Add the flour, pepper, and
salt. Break in an egg, which stir well; pour on some weak
broth (allowing 2 gills per person). Lay dice of bread in the
tureen. Add the cream to the soup just before you pour
the boiling soup over the bread. Serve.
RUSSIAN SOUP.
POTAGE A LA RUSSE.
I Spanish onion, cut in shreds, Bunch of herbs, powdered,
1 moderate-sized white cabbage, 3 pints of stock for 6 persons,
cut in shreds,
Fry the onions and cabbage in butter, being careful not
to burn; drain and add them to the stock, with 1 table-
spoonful of flour blended with cold water. Boil, stirring oc-
casionally, until the vegetables are tender. Add a squeeze
of lemon-juice, and serve with small balls made as follows:
2 oz. of beef, chopped very fine, 1 egg,
2 oz. of suet," "" Salt and pepper.
Fry in butter; place in the tureen; pour the soup over
them and serve.
BEEF AND OKRA SOUP.
1 lb. of beef without fat or bone, % lb. of butter,
4 quarts of cold water, 1 onion, sliced,
2 cups of chopped okra, Salt and pepper.
Cut the beef in small pieces; season with pepper and salt;
fry it in the soup-kettle with the onion and butter until very
brown. Add the cold water, and simmer 1 hour; then add
the okra, and simmer gently for 3 or 4 hours longer.


IS
GOOD-LIVING.
WHITE SOUP.
Knuckle of veal, Salt and pepper,
Pinch of powdered mace, I cup of vermicelli,
I oz, of butter, I cup of cream,
4 yolks of eggs.
Put the veal into a soup-kettle and cover it with cold
water. When it comes to a boil, skim thoroughly. Simmer,
closely covered, 2£ hours. Then strain it. Add seasonings
and the vermicelli; boil slowly about 15 minutes ; if the ver-
micelli is quite tender then, push the pot back where the
boiling will cease. Add the butter. Beat the yolks of eggs
in the tureen with the cream, and pour the boiling soup slow-
ly over them, stirring quickly. Serve.
NORMANDY SOUP.
1 knuckle of veal, 4 quarts of cold water,
I quart of white button onions, I quart of cream,
Yi a baker's small loaf, 2 tablespoons of butter,
Salt and pepper to taste, 2 " "flour.
Put the veal in a kettle with the onions and water. Sim-
mer gently 2 hours. Add the bread cut in slices. Simmer
gently 2 hours longer. Remove the bone and press the
remaining ingredients all through a sieve. Return the soup
to the kettle. Rub the butter and flour together until
smooth; stir this into the boiling soup and continue to stir
until it thickens. Add the cream brought almost to a boil;
add salt and pepper, and serve.
SOUP A LA REINE NO. I.
SOUPE A LA REINE. I.
lY lbs. of chicken, Y lb. of rice,
Y pint of cream, Salt and pepper,
lY quarts of white (veal) stock, Y a Wade of mace,
I sprig of thyme, I shallot (or I clove of garlic),
4 sprigs of parsley.
Clean and roast the chicken. When cold, cut off the
meat. Put the bones into the white stock with seasonings
and well-washed rice. Boil until the rice is perfectly tender


SCOTCH BROTH.
(35 minutes). Meanwhile, chop the chicken fine and pound
it in a mortar; then pass it through a sieve or colander,
helping the process by moistening from time to time with
some of the stock. Strain the remainder of the stock,
pressing the rice through the sieve. Half an hour before
dinner, add the chicken to the stock and heat. Do not let
it boil. Just before serving, add the warmed cream, salt,
and pepper.
SOUP A LA REINE NO. II.
SOUPE A LA REINE. II.
I large chicken, I gill of cream,
lb. of boiled rice, Salt and pepper,
2 quarts of cold water.
Roast the chicken; remove all the meat from the bones.
Chop and pound it to a pulp with the rice. Put the bones,
broken, and the skin into 2 quarts of cold water and let it
simmer gently for about 2 hours, until it makes a weak
broth. Strain it and add it to the chicken and rice. Now
press this all through a sieve, and set aside until required.
Remove the fat from the top when cold; heat the soup over
boiling water without actually boiling it, and, just before
serving, add the cream, heated, but not boiling. Season
with pepper and salt.
SCOTCH BROTH.
A scrag of mutton, I pint of water to 1 lb. of mutton,
1 teaspoon of salt, 1y£ oz. of pearl barley to each qt.,
2 carrots cut in dice, I pint of water for the pot,
I leek, sliced,
Chopped parsley,
Trim off all superfluous fat from the mutton; cut the
meat into small dice. Put it^into a stewpan with 1 pint of
cold water to each lb. of meat and 1 pint extra. Add the
salt and barley in the above proportions. Bring it to a boil,
and skim. Then add th^jgO^^e, carrots, and leek. Bring
to a boil, then simmer 1£ hours. A44-thT hm*ip. Simmer
30 minutes. Remove all pieces of bone; pour into the


20
GOOD-LIVING.
tureen; sprinkle chopped parsley over the top, adding salt
and pepper if necessary. Serve.
OX-TAIL SOUP.
2 ox-tails, Bunch of soup herbs,
1 large onion, A small slice of salt pork,
2 carrots, I stick of celery, or I teaspoon of seed,
Parsley, 4 quarts of boiling water,
3 whole cloves, Salt and pepper.
Cut the tails at the joints, about 2 inches long; slice the
vegetables; mince the pork. Put the pork into a stewpan;
when hot, add the onion. Fry until they begin to color,
then add the tails. Let them fry from 5 to 8 minutes,
browning on all sides. Cut each joint to the bone, that the
juice may run out in boiling. Put all into the soup-kettle,
adding the boiling water. Simmer gently but steadily about
4 hours; then add the other vegetables with the cloves
stuck into a piece of onion. Add seasoning. When the
vegetables are cooked, the soup is ready to serve. Strain it
through the finest strainer. Serve 1 joint and 2 gills of soup
for each person.
MULLIGA TA WNY SOUP.
1 chicken cut in pieces, 4 quarts of cold water,
3 or 4 whole cloves, Parsley,
I knuckle of veal (if available), Salt and pepper,
Butter, size of a walnut, 1 tablespoon of flour,
3 tablespoons of boiled rice, 1 teaspoon of curry-powder,
1 onion cut fine, 1 apple pared, cored, and cut in small dice,
1 carrot"" I stick of celery cut in pieces.
Put the chicken, some of the onion, carrot, and celery,
with the knuckle of veal (or any piece of veal or veal bones),
into the kettle with the cold water. Add the cloves and
parsley, and boil until the chicken is nearly done (about
I hour). Remove the pieces of chicken and trim them
neatly, to serve in the soup. Let the veal continue to
simmer for 3 hours. Now fry the remainder of the onion,
carrot, and celery in the butter. When they begin to brown
well, add the flour; stir it for 1 minute or 2 until browned,


CHICKEN GUMBO FILE".
21
then add the curry-powder, veal-broth, and pieces of chicken.
Simmer gently for I hour. Half an hour before dinner,
strain and skim the soup and return it to the fire with the
pieces of chicken, apple, and rice. When hot, serve. The
chicken should not be too young. A rabbit may be substi-
tuted for the chicken.
GIBLET SOUP.
The giblets, livers, etc., of 2 turkeys I hard-boiled yolk of egg per person.
or 4 chickens, I leaf of sage,
I onion cut fine, Butter, the size of an egg,
1 carrot"" 2 tablespoons of wine,
Yz turnip"" 1 tablespoon of flour,
2 cups of broth (chicken preferred), Parsley,
Lemon-juice, Salt and pepper,
3 quarts of boiling water or broth.
Put the butter in the stewpan with the onion. When
beginning to brown, add all vegetables, giblets, etc., and
flour. Fry until the flour browns, but does not burn. Then
slit the giblets, etc., with a knife, that the juices may run out
in boiling, and put all into the soup-kettle with pepper, salt,
sage, parsley, and 3 quarts of water or stock. Add any
bones or lean meat, cooked or raw, that you may have,
chicken being best. Simmer for 5 hours. Strain. Mash 1
liver fine; add it to the broth. Season with more salt and
pepper, lemon-juice to taste, and 2 tablespoonfuls of madeira
or port. If not thick enough, add 1 teaspoon of corn-starch
blended with a very little cold water; boil 3 minutes. Have
ready in the tureen 1 hard-boiled yolk of egg for each
person. Pour in the hot soup and serve.
CHICKEN GUMBO FILE.
GOMBO FILE.
1 large fowl, 4 quarts of boiling water,
2 oz. butter, I oz. of lard,
2 oz. of chopped onion, 25 oysters,
pint of" okra, Flour,
Cayenne and salt, lb. of ham cut in dice.
/z teaspoon of file powder.
N. B.—The "file' powder" made of sassafras-buds is


22
GOOD-LIVING.
very generally used in New Orleans, and is obtainable, it is
said, at herb shops or of first-class grocers.
Clean and cut the fowl in pieces ; season with pepper and
salt; dredge with flour ; put it into the kettle with the butter,
lard, and onion ; fry until quite brown, then add the water.
Cover the pot and allow it to simmer, not boil, for 2 hours.
Add the oysters and okra, and simmer gently 30 minutes
longer. Just before serving, add the file powder and
cayenne. N. B.—Do not attempt to add the sassafras
while the soup is on the fire ; the result of so doing-would be
to precipitate the powder to the bottom of the pot. Serve.
OKRA GUMBO.
GOMBO FEVI.
8 large, solid tomatoes, skinned and l4 cup of rice, well-washed,
cut up, lb. chopped ham (may be omitted
50 okras, stemmed and cut in % inch for maigre soup),
pieces, Pepper to taste (4 drops of Tabasco
2 large red onions, chopped (if white preferred),
use 3). I tablespoon of butter,
yi, sweet-pepper, chopped, Salt,
1 cup of broth or boiling water.
Stew the onion for a few minutes in the butter. Do not
brown it. Add the above ingredients and stew very gently,
stirring frequently to prevent the rice scorching. After 20
to 30 minutes, add a cup of broth or boiling water. (A great
improvement upon this, is to use the liquor of tomatoes
which have already been stewed. This imparts a richness of
flavor superior to either the broth or water.) Stew from 4 to
6 hours, very gently. Caution: Do not leave it on too hot
a fire or it will scorch; stir frequently to prevent same.
The soup will be very thick; should you prefer it thinner,
add more broth or tomato-juice as above. This dish is much
better the second day, as indeed are most dishes into the
composition of which there enter a variety of ingredients.
Re-heat it in a china-lined saucepan, if necessary, and serve.


TOMATO SOUP NO. I. j
OYSTER GUMBO.
GOMBO AUX HUITRES.
To the receipt for Okra Gumbo, add 50 oysters, which
have been thoroughly dried and put into a hot pan with
melted butter and tossed until slightly browned. This
requires a very hot frying-pan and takes several minutes to
dry the oysters out sufficiently to brown them.
CRAB GUMBO NO. I.
GOMBO AUX CRABES. I.
To the receipt for Okra Gumbo, add soft-shelled crabs
fried in butter and cut in quarters or halves, according to
their size. Be careful to remove the sand-bags before cook-
ing. Allow 2 pieces of crab to each person.
CHICKEN GUMBO.
Proceed exactly as for Okra Gumbo, using chicken-
broth instead of other liquid to thin the soup. Add dice of
the chicken which was used for the broth. These should be
added to the soup only a few minutes before serving, that
they may not become unsightly or go to pieces.
TOM A TO SOUP NO. I.
pur6e de tomates.
I quart of well-flavored broth, Sprig of thyme,
1 quart of stewed tomatoes, yi cup of rice, well-washed,
Salt, pepper, Sugar to taste.
Put all together and boil until the rice becomes very soft
and imparts a creamy consistency to the soup, which will
take about I£ hours. Strain and serve with Croutons (see
receipt). Excellent.


24
GOOD-LIVING.
TOMA TO AND MA CARONI SOUP.
PUREE DE TOMATES AU MACARONI.
Make a Tomato Soup No. I. To this add £ a pint of
small macaroni cut in inch pieces, and boiled in salted
boiling water for 25 minutes. Simmer 5 minutes and serve.
TOMATO SOUP WITH QUENELLES.
PUREE DE TOMATES AUX QUENELLES.
To the receipt for Tomato Soup No. 1, add at the moment
of serving % a pint or more of Chicken or Veal Quenelles
(see receipts).
TOMATO SOUP WITH NOODLES.
PUREE DE TOMATES AUX NOUILLES.
To the receipt for Tomato Soup No. 1, add at the
moment of serving \ a pint of Swedish Noodles (see
receipt).
OF PURGES IN GENERAL.
As this term is used in three senses, it is necessary to de-
fine what is meant by each. All purees are made by boiling
or stewing vegetables in broth or water, passing the mixture,
when cooked, through a sieve.
If it is to be used as a vegetable, it should be almost solid,
as, for instance, puree of potatoes, which is nothing more nor
less than soft mashed potatoes.
If it is to be used as soup, the pulp, prepared as above, 1s
diluted with stock, milk, or water to the consistency of thick
cream, as pease soup.
If it is to be used as sauce, the consistency varies with the
material employed, but may be described, as a rule, as being
thinner than the vegetable and thicker than the soup, as
tomato sauce. Taste and experience must regulate this.
Soup purees do not keep, usually, more than twelve hours
in moderately-warm weather, and not much longer in winter.


ASPARAGUS SOUP.
25
Cream is an important addition to these, as are also eggs and
butter, to impart smoothness and richness. (See receipt for
Liaison of Eggs and Cream.)
Soups of this kind may be made of:
Carrots,
Onions,
Turnips,
Jerusalem artichokes,
Green peas,
Dried peas,
Beans—black, white, or red,
Lentils,
Besides combinations of:
Carrots, turnips, and onions,
Limas and tomatoes,
Barley,
Rice,
Rice and tomatoes,
Sorrel,
Asparagus,
Celery,
Potatoes,
Lima beans.
Potatoes and onions,
Turnips, potatoes, onions, etc.
Always serve with Croutons (see receipt).
ASPARAGUS SOUP.
CREME D'ASPERGES.
30 spears of asparagus, l/i teaspoon of butter,
3 tablespoons of cream, Salt and pepper,
3 pints of stock (or milk), I teaspoon of flour.
Cut the points from the asparagus about £ an inch long;
cook the rest in boiling water until perfectly tender; drain;
rub the pulp through a colander; add a little salt. Bring
the stock to a boil. Blend together the butter and flour;
stir them into the boiling stock. Add the asparagus pulp
and boil about 15 minutes, stirring frequently. Meanwhile,
boil the tips separately in boiling water for about 15 min-
utes, until tender. Drain perfectly, and place them in the
tureen. Stir the cream into the soup and pour it immedi-
ately into the tureen. It must not boil after the cream is
added. This soup may be colored with 1 teaspoonful of
spinach-juice, but this is not obligatory. Serve without
croutons, as the tips are sufficient garnish.


26
GOOD-LIVING.
CR&CY SOUP NO. I.
POTAGE A LA CRECY. I.
4 carrots (the redder the better), cut fine, Sprig of thyme,
2 large onions, cut fine, Bunch of parsley,
1 turnip," 3 cloves,
2 sticks of celery," Salt and pepper,
Butter, size of an egg, I teaspoon of corn-starch,
I pint of new milk, Sugar to taste.
Having cleaned and cut up the vegetables, put them into
a frying-pan with the butter (or part sweet drippings) and
sugar. Fry until they begin to brown slightly; then pour
in a few tablespoonfuls of boiling water. Simmer 10 min-
utes; then turn all into the soup-kettle, adding all the other
ingredients except the corn-starch and milk; add about I
quart of boiling water; cover and simmer gently for about
2 hours; the vegetables must be perfectly soft. Mash all
through a sieve. Return to the fire with the milk. There
should now be 2 quarts in all. When boiling, stir in the
corn-starch blended with a very little cold water or milk.
Boil 2 or 3 minutes, and serve immediately with Croutons
(see receipt). N. B.—The carrots must be mashed very fine.
CRECY SOUP NO. II.
POTAGE A LA CRECY. II.
4 very red carrots, Salt and pepper,
2 potatoes, 2 sticks of celery,
2 onions, Butter, size of a walnut.
Boil the vegetables perfectly tender in 3 pints of water.
When soft, mash them through a sieve. Return to the fire
and boil. Add the butter. When boiling, add 1 teaspoon-
ful of corn-starch blended with a very little cold water; stir
and boil 2 or 3 minutes. Serve with Croutons (see receipt).
This is further improved by the addition of Liaison (see
receipt).


RICE SOUP WITHOUT MEAT.
2J
POTATO SOUP.
POTAGE PARMENTIER.
6 or 8 potatoes,
2 onions, cut in pieces.
Pepper and salt,
Pinch of grated nutmeg,
I cup of cream or rich milk,
Butter, size of a walnut.
Peel the potatoes and put them into a saucepan with the
onions and about 3 pints of cold water. Bring to a boil. In
about 35 minutes, when the vegetables are very tender, pass
the whole through a sieve. Return to the fire. Add season-
ings and butter. When boiling, add the cream and serve
immediately with Croutons (see receipt).
The addition to the above of liaison of cream and
eggs is a further improvement. For variations of the above,
see Of Purees in General.
Boil the peas until quite tender in boiling water with the
onions cut fine, and the parsley. This will require about 25
minutes. Drain. Rub all through a coarse sieve; add them
to the boiling stock. Do not boil after the peas are added.
Season with salt and pepper. Serve hot with small Crou-
tons (see receipt). If required to be kept hot, stand it in a
kettle of boiling water (bain-marie).
GREEN-PEA SOUP.
POTAGE A LA D'ARTOIS.
1 quart of young green peas,
Bunch of parsley,
2 young onions,
2 quarts of good stock,
Pepper,
Salt.
RICE SOUP WITHOUT MEAT.
RIZ AU MAIGRE.
4 heaping tablespoons of rice,
3 pints of water,
Butter, size of a walnut,
2 yolks of eggs,
Pepper,
Salt.
Wash the rice in 3 waters. Rub dry. Put it in a sauce-
pan with 1 pint of cold water. When swelled, add 1 pint of


28
GOOD-LIVING.
boiling water; and when quite tender, the remaining pint of
boiling water. Add pepper and salt. Rub up the yolks of
eggs with a few tablespoonfuls of cream. When smooth,
stir in carefully a few spoonfuls of the boiling rice-water;
then pour the eggs and cream into the saucepan, stirring
very briskly. Draw aside and stir for 2 or 3 minutes. Do
not allow the soup to boil when once the eggs are added.
Prepare as above, rubbing the rice through a sieve. Then
add eggs and cream.
Put the dried crusts into the soup-tureen. Bring the
milk to a boil. Add the salt and sugar. Rub up the yolks
of eggs with a few drops of cold milk or water. When the
soup is boiling, remove it from the fire and stir it very care-
fully into the eggs and milk. Return to the corner of the
range where it will not boil, and stir for about 4 minutes
until slightly thickened. Pour over the dried crusts and
cover. Stand for 5 minutes and serve. N. B.—If boiled
after the addition of the eggs, the soup will curdle.
CRkME DE RIZ.
MILK SOUP.
SOUPE AU LAIT.
1 quart of milk,
4 yolks of eggs,
Salt and sugar to taste,
Dice of stale bread.
ONION SOUP NO. I
.
SOUPE AUX OGNONS.
4 onions, sliced,
2 oz. of flour,
I quart of water,
Slices of stale bread,
Grated Parmesan cheese.
4 oz. of butter,
1 quart of milk,
Salt and pepper,
Fry the onions in the butter until golden brown and
tender. Sprinkle with flour. Add milk, water, and season-


ONION SOUP NO. III.
29
ings. Boil 10 minutes. Put thin slices of stale bread on a
tin in the oven for 5 minutes, or until perfectly dry. Then
lay these in layers in the soup-tureen with grated Parmesan
cheese between. Pour the soup gently over this without
straining. Cover and stand in a warm place 5 minutes, to
allow the cheese to melt and the bread to absorb the soup.
If preferred, the onions may be pressed through a sieve and
thickened with a Liaison (see receipt).
ONION SOUP NO. II.
PUREE SOUBISE.
6 onions, 1yi pints of cream,
1^ oz. butter, Salt,
Pepper, 2 oz. flour,
1yi pints of stock or boiling water, Nutmeg.
Boil the onions in salted water until tender. Drain and
dry on a cloth. Put them on the fire in a saucepan with I
oz. of butter till slightly colored. Add all the other in-
gredients, except \ an oz. of butter. When it comes to a
boil, press through the sieve; return the soup to the fire;
add the rest of the butter, and serve.
ONION SOUP NO. III.
SOUPE AUX OGNONS.
Butter, size of an egg, I pint of boiling water,
2 large potatoes, mashed fine, 2 or 3 large onions, sliced thin,
Salt and pepper, yi cup of flour,
I quart milk. Dice of bread or toast.
Fry the onions in the butter (or drippings) until reddish.
Add the flour. Stir until browned slightly. Do not burn.
Now pour in gradually the boiling water; stir perfectly
smooth; add salt and pepper. Mix well and boil 1 minute.
Then pour it into the soup-kettle and stand at the back of
range. Before serving, add to the soup the milk warmed
and rubbed up with the mashed potatoes until they are a


30
G00b-LIVING.
smooth paste. Stir well. If necessary, add salt and pepper.
Simmer a few moments. Have ready the pieces of toast or
bread in the tureen. Pour in the hot soup. Cover and let
stand 5 minutes in a warm place, then serve.
TOMATO SOUP NO. II.
POTAGE AUX TOMATES.
2 quarts of pure tomato-juice, I gill of rice, well washed,
2 onions, cut fine, 4 cloves,
8 allspice, Sprig of thyme,
Pepper and salt, Pinch of sugar to taste.
The juice should be taken from tomatoes that have
stewed 2 hours. Add the other ingredients; boil 1 to 1£
hours. Strain. It should now be as thick as cream (from
the rice). If, however, it should not be thick enough, add 1
teaspoonful of corn-starch blended with very little cold
water, and boil for 2 minutes. Serve with Croutons (see
receipt).
This is a most excellent soup, and in summer, when the
vegetable is plentiful, not an extravagant one.
Instead of Croutons may be added Swedish Noodles or
Quenelles (see receipts).
TOMATO BISQUE.
BISQUE DE TOMATES. .
I quart of strained stewed tomatoes, Salt,
f I quart of new milk, boiling, Pepper,
1 level teaspoon of soda, I heaping teaspoon of corn-starch.
When the strained stewed tomatoes are heated, add the
soda dissolved in a little hot water. When they no longer
fizz, add the boiling milk and seasonings. Bring to a boil,
and stir in the corn-starch blended with very little cold
water. Boil 2 or 3 minutes and serve. It should be as
thick as rich cream. Croutons should be served at the same
time.


BLACK (OR TURTLE) BEAN SOUP.
Or, boil a cupful of vermicelli in salted boiling water 1or
15 minutes, till tender ; drain well and serve in the soup. In
this case do not serve croutons. The above soup is made
richer and more delectable by the addition of £ a cup of
cream and 1 egg beaten together in the tureen. Pour the
boiling soup over these, stirring briskly. If thickened with
corn-starch, the latter is not requisite.
PEASE SOUP.
PUREE DE POIS SECS.
1]^ pints of dried green peas, I cup of good milk or cream,
Bunch of parsley and celery, Salt and pepper,
2 onions, Ham-bone.
Put the peas to soak for 5 or 6 hours, if you can spare
the time, otherwise put them on in the corner of the range,
with sufficient cold water to cover them, and allow to heat
very gradually. Add in the onions cut in pieces, herbs, and
the ham-bone (when not for maigre soup). Boil until the peas
are perfectly soft, throwing in from time to time a gill of cold
water if the peas have not been previously soaked. When
perfectly tender, remove the ham-bone, and press all the
rest through a sieve. Add the salt and pepper. Return to
the fire to heat, and just before serving, add the rich milk or
cream. This should make 2 quarts of soup. Serve with
Croutons (see receipt). Time about 5 hours.
BLACK (OR TURTLE) BEAN SOUP.
1 pint of small black beans, 2^ quarts of cold water,
2 large onions, Butter, the size of a walnut,
Salt and pepper, 1 lemon, sliced,
I gill of sherry or red wine, 2 hard-boiled eggs,
Sprig of thyme, Cayenne.
Wash the beans well and soak in cold water for several
hours. Put them down with the quantity of water men-
tioned, the onions cut in quarters, a little salt and thyme,


GOOD-LIVING.
and let them simmer gently for 3 to 4 hours, until perfectly
tender; then press all through a sieve. Return to the fire.
There should now be 2 quarts. Add the butter, more sea-
sonings, a little cayenne, and just before serving add the
wine. Have ready in the soup-tureen \ a lemon cut in thin
slices, the eggs sliced, and the following balls:
2 hard-boiled yolks of eggs, Y cup of dried bread-crumbs,
Grated lemon-rind and juice, I teaspoon of finely-chopped parsley,
I yolk of raw egg, Cayenne.
Pinch of grated nutmeg,
Mix all well together. Make into balls the size of a nut-
meg; roll in flour and fry in butter. Put these in the
tureen and pour the boiling soup over all. N. B.—You may
add with advantage a small teaspoonful of corn-starch blended
with cold water; boil for 2 or 3 minutes, stirring constantly;
serve.
RED-BEAN SOUP.
puree A la conde.
Proceed exactly as for Lentil Soup.
LENTIL SOUP.
puree or potage a la c11antilly.
I pint of dried lentils, 2 quarts of cold water,
I onion, minced, Bunch of parsley,
Sprig of thyme, I bay-leaf,
Salt and pepper, I tablespoon of butter.
Wash the lentils. Soak them overnight in lukewarm
water. Drain. Put them in a saucepan with the cold water.
Let it come very gradually to a boil, then set it back and
simmer gently I to 2 hours. Melt the butter in a sauce-
pan. Fry in it the onion, parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf until
brown. Add these to the soup. Boil 1£ hours longer. If
the lentils are perfectly tender at this point, press the whole
through a colander. Return to the fire; add seasonings.


SORREL SOUP.
33
Boil up once and serve with croutons. Or, when the soup is
ready to serve, beat up I egg in the tureen and pour the
boiling soup in very gradually at first, stirring constantly.
Serve as directed.
WHITE-BEAN SOUP.
puree A la dustan.
Proceed exactly as for Pease Soup.
SORREL SOUP.
POTAGE A LA "BONNE FEMME," OR SOUPE A L'OSEILLE.
Butter, size of an egg,
3 leaves of lettuce, sliced fine,
I pint of sorrel, sliced fine,
Pepper and salt,
3 quarts of boiling water,
4 eggs,
3 sprigs of parsley, sliced fine,
1 onion, sliced fine,
Pinch of nutmeg,
2 tablespoons of flour,
r cup of cream or rich milk,
I cup of mashed potato.
Put the vegetables and butter into a saucepan. Cover
and stew gently for 10 minutes, then add the flour, mixing
well. Pour in gradually, stirring always, 3 quarts of boiling
water. Mix the yolks of the eggs with a little of the cream
or milk in the tureen. Put the rest of the cream, rubbed
smooth with the potato, into the soup. Add seasonings.
Have prepared some neat dice of toast or stale bread. Pour
some of the boiling soup over the eggs in the tureen and
mix well. Put in the pieces of stale bread, then add the rest
of the soup. Cover and stand 5 minutes in a warm place.
Then serve. Or the soup may be pressed through a sieve
before dishing.
Stock may be used instead of the water. Chopped cher-
vil may be added ten minutes before removing from the
fire. Many persons consider the soup greatly improved by
rubbing the pieces of bread or toast first with raw onion.
3


GOOD-LIVING.
SUMMER MAIGRE SOUP.
POTAGE A LA PAYSANNE.
Hearts of 6 lettuces, cut in pieces,
2 large onions, cut in pieces,
3 cucumbers, pared and sliced,
1 pint of young peas to be added later,
2 quarts of older peas,
Chopped parsley,
3 lumps of sugar,
X lb. butter,
Salt,
Pepper.
Stew all together I hour, stirring often, having ready 2
quarts of older peas boiled in I gallon of water. Put them
through a sieve back into the water in which they have boiled.
Add to this the other ingredients. Simmer 1£ hours. When
done remove the onions or not, as you prefer. The English
receipt adds: "Dip in a sprig of mint before it is taken off
the fire." Serve.
Stew for 30 minutes; add the potatoes; pass all through
a sieve; return to the fire, and add, lastly, the milk. Stir
until perfectly smooth and hot. Serve with croutons.
ECONOMICAL MAIGRE SOUP.
2 quarts of green peas,
Bunch of fine herbs,
Salt and pepper,
I pint of new milk,
2 onions, sliced,
2 quarts of hot water,
I tablespoon of sugar,
Mashed potatoes to taste.
WHITE MAIGRE SOUP.
SOUPE BLANCHE.
1 pint of new milk,
2 pints of boiling water,
3 tablespoons of flour,
2 yolks of eggs.
Salt,
Pepper.
Boil the water with some celery or onion for flavoring.
Remove the vegetables. Boil the milk and water together,
reserving some cold milk with which to blend the flour.


SOUP MA1GRE. 35
When the milk boils, stir in the flour and boil 8 minu*'
stirring always. Have ready in the tureen the yolks of' ~ggs
well beaten with a spoon. When the soup is ready, pour it
very gently on the eggs, stirring quickly. Add celery-salt,
if you like, and asparagus tips, small dice of carrots or young
peas as a garnish. These latter should be boiled apart,
drained, then added. Serve with croutons.
WINTER OKRA SOUP.
1 can of tomatoes.
2 onions, chopped fine and fried in
butter,
X lb. of ham, fat and lean, cut in dice,
Small piece of red pepper-pod without
seeds,
I gill of rice well washed,
I can of New Orleans okra.
Stew all but the okra together for 3 hours, stirring fre-
quently. Add about 2 cups of boiling water to prevent
it becoming too thick. Ten minutes before serving, add the
okra. Boil up thoroughly once and serve. It should be
rather thicker than Pease Soup. You may add, if you like,
oysters fried in butter, omitting the ham for fast days.
SOUPE MAIGRE.
1 quart of dried peas,
2 large onions,
I head of celery,
1 carrot,
2 turnips,
Sprig of mint,
Handful of spinach,
3 quarts of cold water,
Stew together
until quite
soft, then
pass through
1 lettuce, sliced,
Piece of butter, size of a walnut,
2 lumps of sugar,
Asparagus tips if in season.
Put the pulp and water back on the fire with the lettuce,
butter, and sugar. Boil quickly for about 15 minutes. The
asparagus tips should be boiled apart until tender, drained,
and added when dishing the soup.


36
GOOD-LIVING.
VEGETABLE SOUP.
PUREE DE LEGUMES.
I turnip, sliced, yi oz. of flour,
1 carrot," 3 oz. of butter,
2 onions, '' I teaspoon pepper,
4 oz. celery, sliced, I sprig of parsley,
3 quarts and I pint of boiling water, Bunch of celery leaves,
2 even tablespoons of salt.
Put the vegetables into 2 quarts of the water and boil
until perfectly tender, from 1 to 2 hours, by which time the
water will have absorbed a good deal. Rub all through a
sieve; add the 3 pints of boiling water. Return to the fire,
and when it boils, add the butter rubbed smooth with the
flour and moistened with a little of the hot soup; season
with salt and pepper. Boil and stir 2 or 3 minutes and serve.
A parsnip may also be used. One gill of rich cream may be
added just before serving.
Put the butter into a saucepan, and when it melts stir in
the flour; stir and let it cook but not color. Add by de-
grees the cream and 1 pint of stock, stirring constantly to
avoid lumps; then add the rest of the broth. Add the
coral of the lobster, which has been previously dried in the
oven and pounded fine in a mortar. Cut the meat of the
lobster into dice, and 3 hours before it is required for use,
dress it with oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt. Before serving
the soup, add the pieces of lobster, and heat thoroughly.
It should be pale pink and 0/ the consistency of cream.
Serve with croutons. For maigre soup, substitute new milk
for stock; omit oil and vinegar, using instead a pinch of mace.
LOBSTER BISQUE.
BISQUE DE HOMARD.
3 quarts of veal stock,
2 heaping tablespoons of flour,
I cup of hot cream,
1 tablespoonful of oil,
2 oz. of butter,
Salt and pepper,
1 boiled lobster and its coral,
3 tablespoons of vinegar.


MACARONI SOUP.
37
TO OPEN CLAMS.
Wash the shells clean; place them in a clean roasting-
pan on the hinge end. Pour a little boiling water into the
pan and place in a hot oven until the shells open easily.
The juice is thus collected in the pan and may also be used.
BISQUE OF CLAMS.
50 clams, Liquor of same,
1 tablespoon of butter, Pinch of mace,
2 tablespoons of flour, Milk, pepper.
Strain the liquor of the clams and put down to boil.
Wash the clams free from shells and grit. Scald them in their
own liquor. In 3 minutes take the clams out and chop them
very fine. Rub the flour and butter together over the fire
until thoroughly blended, but not brown. Stir in by degrees
the boiling liquor, and when perfectly smooth set aside to keep
hot. Rub the clams with a potato-masher through a colan-
der or coarse sieve, taking care to press all the fat and soft
part through, but none of the hard part. Stir all the soft
part into the saucepan in which you have the soup. Add a
a little milk or a smaller quantity of cream. With the liquor
there should be at least 1 quart in all. If too thick, thin
with milk to taste. Season with a pinch of mace and
pepper. Be careful about adding salt, as the clams are
generally salt enough. Boil for 5 minutes, stirring frequently,
and serve with croutons.
MACARONI SOUP.
SOUPE AU MACARONI.
}& lb. macaroni, 2 tablespoons each, grated Gruyere and Parmesan,
I quart of boiling milk, }4 teaspoon of curry-powder,
White Roux (see receipt), Salt and pepper.
Boil the macaroni 15 minutes in salted boiling water.
Drain the macaroni; add it to the milk; boil 10 minutes.
Blend some of the boiling milk with the roux (butter and
flour), and curry; stir all in with the soup; add cheese;
boil 3 minutes, season and serve.


3*
GOOD-LIVMG.
OYSTER SOUP.
SOUPE AUX HUITRES.
I quart of oysters and their liquor,
White Roux (see receipt),
Pinch of ground mace,
Salt,
Milk,
Cayenne.
Scald the oysters in their liquor until half-cooked. Skim
them out and set aside. Strain the liquor. Add to it
enough boiling milk to make one quart. When this boils,
stir it into the roux (see receipt) allowing about 2 table-
spoonfuls of flour to the quart of soup. Stir and boil 3
minutes. Add seasonings and the oysters; boil a few
minutes longer until the oysters are quite firm, and serve.
Clean and slice the vegetables. Toast the bread brown.
Put all into the soup-kettle with cold water. Boil gently for
3 hours, until the vegetables are perfectly tender. Mash
all through a coarse sieve back into the water. Return to the
fire. Melt an even tablespoon of butter until it begins to
brown slightly, then stir it into the soup. Add the Harvey
sauce, salt and pepper to taste; serve with Croutons (see
receipt).
SA VORY MAIGRE SOUP.
6 potatoes,
2 carrots,
2 mushrooms (if available),
1 large slice of bread,
6 quarts of water,
2 teaspoons of Harvey's sauce,
4 turnips, or 2 large,
2 onions,
1 head of celery,
1 saltspoon of salt,
}i " "pepper,
1 tablespoon of butter.
FISH STOCK.
COULIS DE POI3SON.
Bones and trimmings of raw fish,
2 onions, sliced,
Rind of half a lemon,
2 carrots, sliced,
2 quarts of cold water,
Bunch of sweet herbs.
Clean and slice the vegetables; put all in a saucepan and
simmer gently for 2 hours. Skim and strain. Or the vege-


LIMA BEANS AND TO MA TO SOUP. 3$
tables and fish may first be fried in butter; then boiled as
above. This broth is very useful for many dishes, as will be
seen by other receipts. It is especially good for boiling bass
or other fine fish which is to be served cold with mayonnaise
or tartare sauce.
Fry the onions in oil till light brown; add the tomatoes
and all other ingredients except the fish, blending the flour
with a little of the cold stock. Boil 30 minutes; then put in
the slices of fish; as soon as they are firm, remove the herbs,
and serve the fish-soup with crusts of toast in the tureen.
Add, if you like, \ a teaspoon of curry-powder with the
flour. Almost any kind of fish or lobster may be used. For
maigre soup, substitute water for the stock.
Follow the directions for Chicken Gumbo File, substi-
tuting 12 or 18 small soft-shell crabs (according to size) for
the chicken. Prepare them as for frying; sprinkle them with
flour ; throw them into the boiling lard which is flavored with
onion; add the bits of ham, and all the details of the former
receipt, omitting the oysters. For a maigre soup, add instead
of the ham, a \ pound of butter.
To the receipt for Tomato Soup No. I., add enough lima
beans, boiled and mashed through a colander, to make the
soup of the consistency of cream. Delicious.
N. B.—The broth used may be very weak. Omit the rice.
FISH SOUP.
4 onions, sliced,
6 tomatoes,"
Salad oil,
3 pints of stock or water,
About 6 small slices of fish,
Parsley, thyme, 3 bay-leaves, winter
savory, tied in a bunch,
Pepper and salt,
4 tablespoons of flour,
I wine-glass of white wine.
CRAB GUMBO NO. II.
LIMA BEANS AND TOMATO SOUP.



GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR FRYING.
Particular attention is called to the fact that every thing
depends upon the manner in which an article of food is fried,
as to whether it is most unwholesome or comparatively in-
nocuous. There is no process of cooking which can be made
to render food more indigestible than this same process of
frying; therefore it is of paramount importance that it should
be most carefully studied and well understood. The sense of
the matter is this: If an article to be fried is put into luke-
warm or even quite hot fat, whether lard, drippings, or but-
ter, the same article warms with it, drawing in at every pore
the greasy fluid; whereas, if, on the contrary, the fat is
heated to boiling-point, that point being much higher for
fatty fluid than for water, the moment the article to be fried
is plunged into it, the intense heat closes every pore, and, it
being instantly seared, cannot absorb an atom of the fat;
when removed from the grease and drained of all moisture
that may remain on the surface (which may be accomplished
by placing the article upon absorbent paper) there is really
no grease remaining to tax the digestive powers. A well-
fried croquette, for instance, should not leave a trace of
grease upon the cut paper or folded napkin upon which it
is served; a well-fried Saratoga-chip may be taken up
by gloved fingers, and not a trace of grease appear on
the glove. The secret of all, then, is to have the lard or
drippings sufficiently deep in the pan to serve for whatever
frying may be necessary at the one time; not to be obliged
to add (Hibernian fashion) a great lump of cold lard,
40


GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR FRYING. 41
"because there is n't enough to fry all" you may happen
to have. This checks the boiling of the lard and immedi-
ately the article immersed in it absorbs the fat again.
Have plenty of lard and have it boiling. These are the two
rules most necessary to observe. Do not be misled by hear-
ing the lard spit and crackle; that is no evidence of boiling;
it is simply throwing off some little drop of moisture. It
must heat slowly at first, and. then, being drawn forward on
the range, be brought to a boil. When lard boils, it is per-
fectly still, until it begins to smoke; at this point there is
danger of burning, so that it should not be allowed to smoke
long, but be pushed aside a little for a moment or two. To
test it when boiling, drop in one drop of water which should
make a slight explosion; or drop in a bit of the soft part of
bread. If the lard is ready, the bread will begin to color al-
most instantly. When the article is fried, skim it out, drain-
ing off all fat; lay it upon a sheet of brown paper in the
open mouth of the oven, or upon the corner of the range,
where it will keep very hot while drying; should it be chilled,
the fat will harden upon it instead of draining off. Pure
lard is recommended for frying croquettes, etc.; butter
should seldom be used, except for saut&ng, as it burns
and blackens.



FISH.
GENERAL DIRECTIONS.
TO BOIL FISH NO. I.
Wash the fish thoroughly inside and out. Wipe dry with
a clean cloth. Trim the fins close to the body with scissors.
Have in a kettle on the fire enough water to cover the fish
entirely. It should be well salted—that is, from 4 to 8 oz.
of salt and \ oz. of saltpetre to every gallon of water. The
water must boil when the fish is put in. It is almost impos-
sible to boil fish handsomely without a regulation fish-kettle,
with its drainer inside. When the fish is cleaned and the
water boiling, lay the fish on the drainer and set the drainer
in the kettle. Allow about 8 minutes to the pound for a large,
thick fish, and 5 minutes to the pound for small, thin fish,
counting from the time when the water begins again to
boil after the fish is put in. It should boil very gently, in
order not to crack the skin. You can tell when it is done by
the flesh parting very easily from the bone. A little vinegar
is a good addition to the water. When done lift out the
drainer, set it across the kettle, and drain the fish dry. Serve
on a folded napkin, garnished with parsley and sliced lemon.
Always serve also an appropriate sauce.
TO BOIL FISH NO. II.
There come times and seasons when it is difficult to
vary one's supply of fish, and the only resource from
monotony is to vary the mode of cooking the fish at our
42


FISH BOILED AU COURT BOUILLON.
43
command. It is therefore suggested, if you have only a
common, rather tasteless fish to offer, to boil it in the
following manner:
Put down the fish-kettle with boiling water sufficiently
deep to cover the fish to be cooked. In this put 2 or 3
onions, 1 bay-leaf, sprig of thyme, 6 or 8 cloves, twice as
many allspice, lemon-peel, salt, a bit of red pepper-pod, and
lastly, when the water has boiled long enough to extract the
flavor of the various condiments, add about I tablespoonful
of vinegar. In this place the strainer containing the fish neat-
ly dressed (see To Boil Fish No. I.). Boil according to the
size of the fish, allowing from 5 to 8 minutes per pound.
It is easily ascertained when it is done by the flesh parting
readily from the bone. Remove the strainer; drain; dish
the fish on a folded napkin; dress with sliced lemon and
plenty of parsley, to avoid drawing too close attention to
the kind of fish it is. Serve with a Tartare Sauce or with a
Cucumber Sauce (see receipts), and you will find your dish
as highly relished as though you offered your guest a rare
and fine fish.
FISH BOILED AU COURT BOUILLON.
POISSON CUIT AU COURT BOUILLON.
I stick of celery, cut fine, Butter,
I carrot," Parsley,
1 onion," 3 or 4 cloves,
2 quarts of boiling water, Pepper-corn,
Yx pint of vinegar, Salt.
Fry the vegetables in the butter. Add all the ingredients
to the water in the fish-kettle and boil 15 minutes. Skim.
Add salt. It is now ready for use. Rub the skin of the
fish (which has been prepared as above) with lemon-juice
to keep it white. Put it into the boiling fish-broth,
which must cover it well. Simmer very gently, allowing
5 to 10 minutes per pound. When cooked, drain dry,
and serve on a folded napkin with parsley and lemon and
a sauce.


44
COOD-L1VING.
TO BOIL A TROUT OF ONE POUND.
When properly scaled and dressed and washed inside and
out, wrap it in a napkin; drop it into well-salted boiling
water. Boil only 4 or 5 minutes. Drain well and serve on
a folded napkin, with parsley and lemon and Maitre d'Hotel
Sauce (see receipt).
TO STEAM A FISH.
Having washed and dressed the fish, secure the tail in its
mouth; lay it on a plate and pour over it \ pint of vinegar,
pepper and salt. Let it stand one hour in the ice-box; then
pour off the vinegar; put it in a steamer over boiling water;
cover tightly and steam 20 minutes for a medium-sized fish.
When done, the flesh will part easily from the bone. Drain
it well and serve as above with Maitre d'Hotel Sauce (see
receipt).
TO BROIL FISH.
When it is very hot, grease the gridiron thoroughly.
Clean and split the fish (unless small) and lay it upon the grid-
iron. If the fish is small, broil over a quick, clear fire; for a
large fish, the fire should be more moderate, or the outside
will be charred before the inside is cooked. Turn constant-
ly, keeping the skin side longest against the fire. When
done through (when the flesh will part easily from the bone),
loosen the fish with a knife from the broiler; turn the hot
dish over the fish, and with a quick movement turn the two
back again dexterously. A broken fish is most unappetizing,
therefore it must be very carefully dished. Butter it gener-
ously; add salt and pepper, and, generally, a tablespoonful
of chopped parsley and juice of \ a lemon.
TO FRY FISH.
Cut the fins off; wash the fish and dry it inside and out.
If a thick fish, cut three gashes diagonally across the back;
if small, leave it whole. To dry it thoroughly, powder it


46
GOOD-LIVING.
first with a little of the sauce. Stir. The fish will require
about 10 minutes to boil. When thoroughly cooked, dish
the steaks in a circle; strain the sauce over them and serve
garnished with large Croutons of stale bread, cut either in
cubes or diamonds (see receipt).
Trim the fins of the fish and wipe clean and dry, inside
and out. Fill the fish with dressing, and sew it up with
coarse thread. For the dressing, take dried bread-crumbs
enough to fill the fish; put a large lump of butter into the
frypan; let it melt, but not cook; lay the bread-crumbs in,
stirring around only long enough for the crumbs to absorb
the butter. To this add \ an onion chopped very fine and
fried also in butter, I tablespoonful of chopped parsley and a
little lemon-juice, a pinch of cayenne and salt. When the
fish is sewn up, lay it in a roasting-pan just long enough to
fit it; put bits of butter all over the top and the boiling
water in the pan. Season it. Bake for about 20 minutes,
basting frequently; then add the wine, Worcestershire
sauce, lemon-juice, and bake until done, basting frequently.
This will take about 45 minutes in all, but will depend upon
the size and thickness of the fish. When the fish is done
(the flesh leaving the bone easily), remove it to a hot dish
and garnish with parsley and lemon. Put the pan on top of
the range. Add a little more water if necessary, and 1 gill
of claret. When boiling, stir in about 1 teaspoonful of
butter and 2 of flour, rubbed smooth and blended with some
of the sauce. Boil up for 2 minutes; strain over the fish,
and serve.
FISH STUFFED AND BAKED.
4 or 5 lbs. fish, whole,
2 cups of boiling water,
2 or 3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce,
Y lemon,
Salt,
Butter,
1 cup claret,
Flour,
Dressing,
Pepper.


BASS STEWED WITH TOMATOES.
47
FISH SALAD.
6 lbs. striped bass, cut in steaks,
Bones of the same,
6 yolks of eggs, beaten together,
3 whites of eggs,"
I onion,
Butter,
Salt,
Cayenne,
Juice of 3 lemons.
Cut the fish into steaks, reserving all the bones, which you
put down in I quart of boiling water with the onion fried
slightly in butter, pepper, and salt. In this boil the fish
steaks, which remove, when firm, to a platter. Strain the
liquor in which the fish-bones, etc., have boiled; squeeze
into it the lemon-juice; add a little cayenne to taste, and
then very carefully add the beaten eggs. The safest way to
do this successfully, is to remove the boiling liquid from the
fire; let it stand a moment; have a little cold water mixed
with your eggs, and pour these gently into the hot liquid,
stirring briskly all the time. Return to the fire until it
thickens, but without boiling, stirring constantly. Pour this
over the fish and set away to cool. Dress with neatly cut
strips of beet or red-pepper, and trim the edge with small
lettuce leaves. Excellent.
Boil the fish Au Court Bouillon (see receipt); serve
very cold, with Tartare Sauce (see receipt) and dressed
cucumbers. Delicious in warm weather.
COLD BOILED BASS, SAUCE TARTARE.
BAR, SAUCE TARTARE.
BASS STEWED WITH TOMATOES.
BAR AUX TOMATES.
1 quart of tomatoes,
2 onions, sliced,
Iyi gills sweet oil,
4 lbs. of fish,
Salt,
Pepper.
Stew the tomatoes (peeled) for 30 minutes. Cut the fish
(any firm, white-fleshed fish will do) into square pieces,


48
GOOD-LIVING.
removing all the bones. Fry the sliced onions in the sweet
oil. Lay the fish cutlets in the saucepan with the onions
and sweet oil; strain the tomatoes over this; season with
salt and pepper. Cover closely and stew gently for I hour.
It must cook slowly, or the fish will go to pieces. Dish the
cutlets neatly in a circle and pour the tomatoes, slightly
thickened with corn-starch, over them. Serve.
r
WHITEBAIT.
Whitebait must be perfectly fresh, and must be kept
in iced or salted water until required.
When you are ready to cook them, drain them off and
throw upon a clean, dry cloth. Pat very gently with the
cloth to absorb whatever water may remain. Have a second
cloth ready with about 2 good handfuls of flour for I pound
of whitebait. Put the whitebait into this and toss them
from side to side until every little fish has its separate and
individual covering of flour. Then turn them upon a coarse
sieve for the extra flour to sift out. Meanwhile, have on
the fire a saucepan with lard 2 inches deep. Bring to a boil,
and test with a bit of bread to see if it is just right before
you put in the fish. Now put about \ of the pound at
a time into a frying-basket, so that they shall not be too
crowded. Lay the frying-basket in the lard until the
little fish curl—that is, about 2 minutes. Turn them out
upon a clean piece of brown paper in a hot place while you
fry the rest. Sprinkle pepper and salt over all as evenly as
you can. Have a napkin folded and baked in the oven until
very hot. When the fish are cooked and the fat thoroughly
drained off, lay them inside of the hot napkin. They should
be eaten immediately. If kept standing, will become tough
or limp. Serve, at the same time, cayenne and a lemon cut
in quarters; also small tartines made of the best brown
bread, cut as thin as a wafer and buttered with the freshest
of butter.


CUTLETS OF SHAD À L'OSEILLE.
BAKED SHAD NO. I.
ALOSE FARCIE I.
Make a light and delicate dressing as indicated in the
receipt for Fish Stuffed and Baked. Stuff the shad ; sew it
up; have a large sheet of white paper buttered. Fold up the
fish in it, twisting the ends securely to keep in both butter
and steam. Put in a baking-pan and set in the oven. It will
not require basting and will be done in about 45 minutes if
of medium size. Remove the paper and serve with a Maître
d'Hôtel or other fish-sauce. N. B.—The oven should be
moderate.
BOILED SHAD.
ALOSE À LA MAÎTRE D'HÔTEL, OR À LA HOLLANDAISE.
Have the water boiling in the fish-kettle. Salt it strongly,
and put i tablespoon of vinegar, if liked. Dress the fish
neatly (see Directions for Boiling Fish), lay it on the strainer,
and place it in the boiling water. Be careful, in dishing, not
to break the skin. Dish on a folded napkin and garnish with
parsley and sliced lemon. It will take about 20 to 25 minutes
to cook. Serve with this a Maître d'Hôtel Sauce (see receipt),
or a Sauce Hollandaise. If a roe-shad, the roe should be
dipped in flour after having been parboiled (about 10 min-
utes); it is then fried in butter until firm and golden brown.
CUTLETS OF SHAD À L'OSEILLE.
FILETS D’ALOSE À L'OSEILLE.
Follow receipt for Fish Cutlets Fried, and serve on a bed
of sorrel made into a smooth purée and dressed with plenty
of butter. This is the way the French prepare shad.


GOOD-LIVING.
BAKED SHAD NO II.
ALOSE FARCIE II.
Leave the head on and do not split the fish. Make a
force-meat of grated bread-crumbs, cold ham or bacon
minced fine, sweet marjoram, pepper, salt, mace or pinch
of ground cloves. Moisten with a raw egg. Having dressed,
washed, and dried the fish, stuff the inside with this, reserving
a little to rub over the outside, having first rubbed the fish
with yolk of raw egg. Place the fish in a deep pan, securing
its tail in its mouth. Pour into the bottom of the pan a little
water; add a gill of port wine or claret and a piece of butter
rolled in flour. Baste. Bake it well (45 minutes), and send
it to table with the gravy poured over it. Garnish with
lemon. Any fish may be baked in the same manner. A
large fish of 10 or 12 lbs. weight will require two hours' bak-
ing. (The average market shad weighs about 4 lbs.) The
time first indicated is for a fish of moderate size.
COLD BOILED SHAD, SAUCE TART ARE.
ALOSE, SAUCE TARTARE.
Boil as directed To Boil Fish, or Au Court Bouillon. Serve
very cold with Tartare Sauce (see receipt).
PLANKED SHAD.
A thick oak board is prepared for this purpose with wooden
pegs. Spread the fish open on the board and secure it with
the pegs. Place the board before a clear fire, the end resting
in a shallow pan, in which there is a little salt and water
to baste the toasting fish. When almost cooked, baste also
with melted butter and a little walnut catsup. Serve on the
board (if a handsome one), or, when dishing, add a little wal-
nut catsup to the gravy and pour it over the fish. Serve
with pickled walnuts.


SHAD-ROE CROQUETTES.
5»
PICKLED OR SOUSED SHAD.
Put the fish-kettle on the fire with plenty of water to cover
your fish. When boiling, throw in I cupful of salt. Lay the
fish on the drainer in the kettle and boil about 30 minutes
(according to the size of the fish). Take out the fish, drain
it very thoroughly and let it get cold. Meanwhile take
some of the water in which the fish was boiled; add to it
whole cloves, whole allspice, whole mace, and a piece of red
pepper-pod without the seeds. Boil until the water is
strongly flavored with the spices. Cut the fish in large
pieces; lay these in a stone crock; mix from \ to \ strong
vinegar with the spiced liquor, and pour over the fish until it
is quite covered. Lay a cloth over the mouth of the jar ; put
the cover on and set it away. It will be ready for use in one
or two days, and will keep in a cold place for a fortnight,
if the fish is always well covered by the liquor.
Many other kinds of - fish, such as bluefish, rockfish, etc.,
etc., are excellent treated in the same manner. This makes
an excellent relish for luncheon.
SHAD-ROE CROQUETTES.
2 shad-roes, 1 tablespoon of lemon-juice,
yi, pint cream, I large tablespoon of butter,
Yolks of 2 eggs, I medium tablespoon chopped parsley,
2 medium tablespoons of flour, Whites of 2 eggs for dipping,
Salt, pepper, Sifted bread-crumbs,
% grated nutmeg, Cayenne.
Wash the shad-roes ; put them into a saucepan with salted
boiling water; cover and simmer 15 minutes. Remove from
the fire; take off the fine skin and mash them. Bring the
cream to a boil. Rub the butter and flour together over the
fire, but do not brown; stir in gradually the boiling cream.
Boil 3 minutes, until very thick. Remove from the fire and,
while still boiling, stir in the 2 yolks of eggs. Add to this
all the other ingredients; mix well and spread on a dish
to cool. When cold, flour your hands and form into cro-


GOOD-LIVING.
quettes I x 2\ inches. Dip in egg first, then in fine crumbs.
Let stand at least 1 hour in the ice-box; then fry in boiling
lard until golden brown. See General Directions for Frying.
When cooked, lay the croquettes upon a folded paper to
drain perfectly dry. Serve on a fancy-cut paper or a folded
napkin, garnished with parsley and lemon. Hand at the
same time a Sauce Tartare (see receipt). Delicious.
FRIED SMELTS.
EPERLANS FRITS.
As smelts are not opened, but cleaned through the gills, it
is important that they should be perfectly fresh. They spoil
very easily. The head should be kept on except in certain
receipts, where it will be mentioned to remove them.
Dip in egg and bread-crumbs or corn-meal. Stand aside
for an hour or more, if time permits. Have lard in the frying-
pan. Bring it to a boil. See General Directions for Frying.
Lay in the fish and fry gold color, which will take about 5
minutes, or less. Dry on a sieve or paper in the open oven
door. Serve on a folded napkin, arranged two and two at
right angles. Serve with lemon cut in quarters and cayenne.
BROILED SMELTS.
EPERLANS GRILLES.
Remove the heads. Split. Remove backbone. Lay on a
greased broiler. Broil 5 minutes. Butter. Serve with lemon
cut in quarters and cayenne. Delicious.
BAKED SMELTS.
Remove the heads. Split. Dip the smelts in melted but-
ter and then in flour. Lay on a pan in the oven. Bake 8 to
10 minutes. Serve with a lemon cut in quarters and cayenne.


FISH CUTLETS.
53
SMELTS WITH MAYONNAISE.
EPERLANS, SAUCE MAYONNAISE.
Fry the smelts as directed. Serve with a Mayonnaise
Sauce (see receipt). These are excellent eaten cold, with
the sauce.
STEWED SMELTS.
Remove the heads. Lay in a china bake-dish. Prepare a
sauce of Fish-Stock (see receipt), or veal-stock, chopped
onions, capers, parsley and thyme, pepper and salt, and a
little white wine. When boiling, pour this over the fish and
bake until tender, which will be in about 10 minutes. Serve
in the same dish.
FISH PUDDING (SCANDINA VIAN).
Take a custard of eggs, milk, flour, and butter, allowing 5
or 6 eggs to 1 quart of milk, which has been slightly thick-
ened with flour. The eggs must be added to the milk when
it is removed from the fire, and stirred briskly and steadily.
Have some boiled cod freed from bones and chopped up
fine. Stir it into the custard; season with salt and pepper,
and steam in a covered mould for 2 hours. Serve with
Hollandaise or Lobster Sauce (see receipts).
FISH CUTLETS.
FILETS DE POISSON.
Cut the fish in square pieces or in slices auoss the back.
If square, remove all bones. Dry, dip, and fry as directed;
or, dip in Batter (see receipt), and fry in deep-boiling lard.
See General Directions for Frying. Be sure the lard is
boiling. When fried gold color either way, drain till dry
on brown paper, then serve on a folded napkin with a quan-
tity of parsley or cresses and some slices of lemon. Serve
with the cutlets a sauce—either tomato, mayonnaise, tartare,
etc


54
GOOD-LIVING.
STEWED EELS, (LONDON COOKING-SCHOOL).
^ cup of butter, 4 small onions, chopped fine,
1 tablespoon of flour, 2 cups of stock,
I gill of port, 2 bay-leaves,
1 large or 2 small eels, Salt and pepper.
Put the butter into a stewpan; when melted, add the
onions; cook till light brown; add the flour, stirring till
well blended. Then add the stock (or water for a fast-day),
wine, bay-leaves, salt and pepper, and the eels cut in 2-inch
lengths. Cover tightly and stew 15 minutes. Serve on a
hot platter with large croutons or neat pieces of toast.
EELS EN MA TELOTE.
ANGUILLES EN MATELOTE.
2 lbs. eels, 2 oz. butter,
pint button onions, I tablespoon of flour,
1 onion, 10 cloves,
2 tablespoons vinegar, Bouquet of herbs,
I pint boiling water, I teaspoon of salt,
saltspoon of pepper, 1 " of butter,
I teaspoon of sugar, 1 gill of wine, red or white,
Croutons.
Clean the eels; lay them for a few minutes in cold water;
cut them in 2-inch lengths; put them over the fire in cold
water and salt and bring them to a boil. Add 1 onion
stuck with the cloves, and the vinegar, when the fish is put
down to boil. Boil 15 minutes; take them up, dry on a
clean cloth; roll in flour and fry brown in saucepan with 2
ounces of butter. When brown, add the herbs and boiling
water, salt and pepper as above. Peel the button onions;
toss them over the fire in a frying-pan until brown, with 1
teaspoonful each of sugar and butter; then add them to the
matelote and simmer 1 hour. If the sauce evaporates, add
enough boiling water to make up the original quantity.
When done, add the wine and serve with croutons as a gar-
nish. The above receipt may be used for any firm, fine fish.


BROILED EELS.
55
EELS A LA POULETTE.
ANGUILLES A LA POULETTE.
Eels,
I tablespoon butter,
I cup of broth,
I gill of white wine,
I onion, minced,
Lemon-juice,
}4 can mushrooms,
}( tablespoon flour, dried in the oven
Parsley,
Pepper and salt,
2 or 3 yolks of eggs,
Croutons.
When the eels are skinned and properly cleaned, let them
disgorge in vinegar and boiling water; then dry thoroughly
and cut in joints of equal lengths, 3 to 4 inches. The pro-
portions given will be for about 12 such joints. Put them
in a stewpan with about £ a can of button mushrooms (1
cupful) and butter. Let begin to fry; then dredge in f
tablespoonful of flour dried as above; now add about 1
cupful of broth and 1 gill of Chablis or other white wine,
and stir until it boils; then season with pepper, salt, fine
herbs, and the onion, minced very fine. Let all stew until
the eel is tender; skim off the floating grease and remove
the stew from the fire. Add a squeeze of lemon-juice mixed
with the yolks of the eggs, and stir quickly to prevent curd-
ling. Do not put again on the fire where it will cook, on
account of the eggs. Serve with croutons and pieces of
lemon to garnish the dish.
Let the eel thoroughly disgorge in boiling water and vin-
egar, cut in lengths of 3 or 4 inches. Wipe dry. Split in
two, dip in egg and bread-crumb, and fry in boiling lard.
See General Directions for Frying.
FRIED EELS.
ANGUILLES FRITES.
BROILED EELS.
ANGUILLES GRILLEES.
Proceed as above, dipping only in flour, and broil quickly
over a clear fire.


GOOD-LIVING.
BOILED SALMON.
SAUMON, SAUCE MAYONNAISE.
To every 3 pounds of salmon put:
I lb. salt, I gal. water,
)i oz. of saltpetre.
Let the salt and water be thoroughly boiling, and skim it
before you put in the fish. Boil quickly, allowing about 10
minutes to the pound, whole; serve immediately. Or if sliced,
should be cut 1 inch thick.
The appropriate sauces are mayonnaise, tartare, or a little
of the water in which the salmon was boiled, with chopped
parsley and lemon-juice added.
SALMON STEAKS (ENGLISH RECEIPT).
Cut the fish in slices about I inch thick. Dry well with a
cloth; dredge with flour, and lay them on a well-buttered
gridiron over clear, hot coals. Turn with a broad-bladed
knife slipped beneath, and a flat wire egg-beater above, lest
the steak should break. When done to a light brown, lay in
a hot dish; butter each steak, seasoning with salt and pep-
per; cover closely, and serve with chopped parsley.
SALMON CROQUETTES.
CROQUETTES DE SAUMON.
I lb. of cold boiled salmon, Juice of half lemon,
1 teaspoon of salt, Pinch of cayenne,
1 tablespoon of chopped parsley, 1 cup of cream,
1 " of butter, 3 tablespoons of flour.
Chop the salmon fine; add pepper, salt, parsley, and
lemon-juice. Mix. Bring the cream to a boil. Rub the
flour and butter together until smooth; stir them into the
cream; stir and boil 3 minutes; mix this with the salmon
and set away to cool. When cold and firm, flour your hands
and form it into rolls. Dip in egg, then in fine crumbs. Set


COD STEAKS.
57
in the ice-box for at least 1 hour; then fry in boiling lard.
See General Directions for Frying. Drain dry and serve
on a cut paper or folded napkin garnished with parsley.
BOILED COD.
CABILLAUD.
In boiling cod, a smaller quantity of salt is used than for
salmon; 1 ounce of salt to 1 quart of water is the propor-
tion. Place the cod on the fish-drainer in the kettle, and
cover with cold water salted as above. Let it come almost
to a boil, then simmer for 5 minutes; skim. The time of
boiling must vary with the weight, moreover with the thick-
ness of the fish. It may take from 20 minutes for a small
cod to 30 for a medium-sized one. The large ones are best
cooked in sections, or they will not boil evenly, the thickness
varying so much. Drain and serve on a napkin with Oyster
or Egg Sauce (see receipts).
COD STEAKS.
FILETS DE CABILLAUD.
Should either be dipped in egg and flour, and fried in boiling
lard; or wrapped in buttered paper and baked in the oven
for 30 minutes; or powdered with bread-crumbs and broiled.
The proper sauces to serve with cod in any style are: Oy-
ster Sauce, Egg Sauce, Brown Caper Sauce, or Anchovy
Sauce; Oyster Sauce is of course preferred (see receipts).
SALT COD A LA BONNE FEMME.
MORUE A LA BONNE FEMME.
12 potatoes, Salt cod, enough for 6 persons,
12 onions, ^ lb. butter,
I oz. flour, blended with a little milk.
Wash and peel the potatoes, and also the onions. Cut
pieces of the fish 2x3 inches; lay the potatoes at the bottom
of the stewpan; next the onions; then, at the top, the salt


GOOD-LIVING.
fish, which has previously been washed in tepid water. Put
enough water (cold) to cover the whole, and simmer until the
fish is cooked; take it out. Let the onions complete their
cooking; trim the pieces of salt fish, and remove all bones.
Dissolve in another stewpan the butter and the flour, as
above; simmer 10 minutes, then put in the potatoes, onions,
fish in order, as above; simmer another 10 minutes, and serve.
—Gogut.
CODFISH CROQUETTES.
I ^ lbs. mashed potatoes, 10 oz. picked codfish, scalded,
4 oz. of butter, I gill of cream or rich milk,
I teaspoon of pepper, I egg,
Fine bread-crumbs.
Melt the butter in the hot potato; add the fish, pepper,
and cream; mix thoroughly, and mould into round or oval
balls. Roll these in the beaten egg, then in the bread-crumbs,
which must be very fine; then lay them on a frying-basket and
sink in deep boiling lard, having tested the heat with a bit
of bread. See General Directions for Frying. When the
croquettes are a fine golden-brown, lift out the basket, let it
drain for a moment, and serve the croquettes on a folded
napkin. This quantity will make 18 good-sized croquettes.
BACALAO A LA VIZCAINA.
1 lb. dried salt codfish, I large onion, chopped fine,
2 cloves of garlic, chopped fine, I gill of olive oil,
I pint rich tomato sauce, I red sweet-pepper,
Pepper, 12 croutons, 1x2 inches thick.
Soak the codfish overnight in cold water. Boil it 40
minutes, putting it on in cold water. Pick out the bones,
and set away to cool. Make a good Tomato Sauce (see
receipt). Chop up the sweet-pepper and add to the sauce.
Fry the onions and garlic in the oil, and add all to the sauce.
Cut the croutons from the soft part of the loaf and fry in
boiling oil. Then put the codfish into the tomato sauce
and heat it thoroughly in the oven in a deep dish with the


halibut steaks a la flamande. $9
croutons arranged around as a border. Allow it to remain
in the oven about 15 minutes, then serve in same dish.
N. B.—The Spanish red sweet-peppers come to us pre-
served in oil in tin cans. Add black pepper as may bt
necessary.
CODFISH BALLS.
2 cups picked salt cod, I tablespoon of butter,
2 " mashed potato, % cup of cream,
teaspoon of pepper.
Pick the codfish fine; soak in cold water 30 minutes. Drain.
Cover with boiling water. Stand on back of range 15 minutes.
Drain and press out all water. Mix the fish with the pota-
toes, which should be well beaten. Add all other ingredients.
Beat well. Form into balls, roll in egg and bread-crumbs, or
in eggs and flour, and fry in boiling lard until well browned.
See General Directions for Frying.
BROILED CODFISH OR HADDOCK.
CABILLAUD, OR EGLEFIN GRILLE.
Split the tail-end of the fish and broil as directed for
Broiled Fish. Spread with Maitre d'H6tel Butter (see
receipt); let stand for 1 or 2 minutes in the open oven to
melt the butter; serve hot.
HALIBUT STEAK A LA FLAMANDE.
Take a halibut steak \ in. thick. Wash and wipe dry.
Butter the bottom of a flat earthenware dish that will stand
the fire. Sprinkle over the bottom grated onion, pepper,
and salt; put the fish on this; brush it over with the yolk
of an egg; sprinkle with grated onion, pepper, salt, and
chopped parsley; pour over it a teaspoonful of lemon-juice;
put 1 tablespoonful of butter in bits over the top, and bake
in a moderate oven 30 minutes. Serve it in the dish in which
it was baked, garnished with sprigs of parsley and lemon.
Serve Bechamel Sauce (see receipt) in a sauce-boat at the
same time.


do GOOD.LIVIATG.
DEVILLED HALIBUT.
Use I pound of cold boiled halibut instead of 12 crabs,
otherwise follow exactly the receipt for Devilled Crabs.
Serve in shells.
BAKED HALIBUT A LA CREOLE.
I lb. halibut steak, 2 cups of stewed tomatoes,
I clove of garlic, chopped fine, Butter, pepper, salt to taste.
Dried bread-crumbs, about I cup.
Remove all the bone from the steak. Place it in a bake-
dish; sprinkle over it the garlic. Cover with a layer of
tomatoes, then a layer of bread-crumbs, bits of butter, pepper,
salt; then another layer of tomatoes. Bake 20 minutes.
Serve in the same dish in which it was baked.
FISH A LA DELMONICO.
POISSON A LA DELMONICO.
4 lbs. of fish (halibut is best), 4 tablespoons of flour,
yi, lb. of butter, Pepper,
1 pint of milk, Salt.
Remove all the bones from the fish, which has been previ-
ously boiled. Put the fish into a bake-dish. Stir the flour
and butter, rubbed smooth, into the boiling milk. Boil 5
minutes, stirring constantly. Add pepper and salt. Pour
the sauce, when well thickened, over the fish. Cover the top
with stale bread-crumbs, and put it in the oven until browned,
about 15 minutes. Nice for breakfast.
STEWED HADDOCK.
EGLEFIN EN MATELOTE.
4 or 5 lbs. of haddock, cut in square 2 oz. of butter,
pieces, Powdered mace,
Cayenne and salt, Flour,
2 teaspoons of Reading sauce, Yz pint of sherry,
2 " "anchovy" 2 tablespoons of flour
Split the fish lengthwise; cut in pieces. Boil the bones
and head in sufficient water to cover them. Strain the


BREAKFAST F:SH. 61
liquor. Butter a porcelain saucepan; lay the fish in it with
the flesh downward; sprinkle each piece with cayenne, salt,
mace, and flour. Pour over this I pint of the fish liquor,
cover and simmer gently for 20 minutes, occasionally shaking
the saucepan to prevent sticking. Add the Reading and
anchovy sauces and the sherry. Rub the butter and flour
together and blend with a little of the gravy, then stir these
into the saucepan. Stir constantly. Add more seasoning, if
necessary; let it simmer 10 minutes, and serve in a deep
dish with parsley and lemon. Pour the gravy over the fish.
MOCK TURBO T A LA CREME.
6 lbs. of cold boiled haddock, I quart of miik,
^ onion, Sprig of parsley, chopped,
Small cup of flour, I cup of milk,
Yolks of 2 eggs, Yz teaspoon of white pepper,
Cheese, and bread-crumbs, "" thyme,
Salt, Y cup of butter.
Bring the quart of milk to a boil with onion and parsley.
Rub together the flour and cold milk; stir them into the
boiling milk. Add seasonings. Have ready the fish, boned.
Shred. Butter a bake-dish. Lay in a layer of fish. Remove
the sauce from the fire and carefully stir in the beaten yolk
of the eggs. Now pour a layer of this sauce over the fish:
then begin again with a layer of fish, and so on until the dish
is filled. Finish with sauce, over which sprinkle a layer
of fine bread-crumbs and grated cheese. Bake 1 hour in a
moderate oven.
BREAKFAST FISH.
2 oz. of butter, I teaspoon of mustard-flour,
Cayenne, salt, and lemon-juice, Cold fish, dried bread-crumbs.
Free the fish from bones, and flake it. Rub the other
ingredients to a smooth paste. Half-fill scallop-shells with
the fish; lay the paste over it; cover with dried bread-
crumbs. Set in the oven until thoroughly heated, about IO
minutes.


62 , GOOD-LIVING.
FRIED SOLE (ENGLISH RECEIPT).
SOLES FRITES.
The fish must be perfectly fresh, and perfectly clean. If
the former point is in the slightest degree doubtful, do not
attempt to fry it whole, but remove the fillets from the bone
and cut off the parts near the head and at the edges, and
wash with vinegar and water. After the sole has been
cleaned, it must be thoroughly dried, and lightly dredged
with flour, which completes the drying. Have ready plenty
of sifted bread-crumbs, and enough well-beaten yolk of egg
to coat the fish all over; this is best done with a brush.
Then let every part be covered with bread-crumbs. Have the
lard quite boiling, or the fish will be limp. See General
Directions for Frying. Fry the fish a golden brown;
place it when fried on a paper before the fire to drain off the
grease. Serve on a napkin with parsley and lemon.
FILLETS OF SOLE A LA ORLY.
FILETS DE SOLE A LA ORLY.
I sole for every 4 fillets, Chopped parsley,
Lemon-juice, pepper, and salt, 1 onion, sliced.
Get your fishmonger to prepare the fillets if possible; if
you are obliged, however, to do them yourself, first skin the
fish (a troublesome task if you would not waste your fish);
then make a slit with a very sharp knife from head to tail on
each side, also down the back and belly. Then run your
sharp knife very close to the backbone each side, which will
separate the fillets. Trim them neatly at the head and tail
ends, and remove all the fin-bones from the sides. The fil-
lets thus prepared and wiped clean, steep them for 1 hour in
a mixture of lemon-juice, parsley, onions, salt, and pepper.
Then drain and dry them. Cover with a coating of flour, or
dip in Batter (see receipt) and fry in boiling lard. See Gen-
eral Directions for Frying. Dish on a folded napkin in a
circle, with a bunch of fried parsley in the centre. Serve with


FILLETS OF SOLE, MAlTRE D'HOTEL.
63
Tomato Sauce (see receipt). Many other fish of delicate
quality may be treated in the same manner.
Butter a shallow fire-proof or tin dish; lay the fish upon it
whole. Cover with a buttered paper and place in the oven
for 10 minutes. Then take it out and carefully remove the
backbone, filling its place with chopped onions and parsley.
Replace the upper side of the fish, and cover the whole with
rich White Sauce (see receipt). Return to the oven for 10 to
15 minutes longer. Prepare the eggs by cutting the whites
in quarters with which to garnish the edge; press the yokes
through a coarse sieve. When the fish is cooked, sprinkle
the top thickly with the yolks and return to the oven for 2
minutes, to heat thoroughly. The edges of the dish should
be decorated with the whites of eggs, sliced lemon, and
parsley.
Time required, about 30 minutes. Fillet the sole as de-
scribed in Fillets of Sole a la Orly. Put the bones and
fins of the sole into a saucepan with 2 gills of hot water
to boil. Butter a flat tin pan thoroughly. Fold the fillets
loosely over and lay them on the tin. Sprinkle a little salt
and a squeeze of lemon-juice over them and cover with
a buttered paper. Set them in a sharp oven for 6 minutes.
To make the sauce: Chop a small bunch of parsley very
fine and put it aside. Mix in a stewpan 1 oz. of butter and
J oz. of flour until smooth. Strain the fish-stock by degrees
SOLE A LA URORE.
1 sole,
Chopped parsley,
I cup of White Sauce,
Butter, salt, and pepper,
Yx small onion, grated,
4 hard-boiled eggs.


64
GOOD-LIVING.
into the flour and butter, stirring quickly to prevent lumps.
This should be done off the fire. Now put the stewpan on
the fire and stir with a wooden spoon. Add the cream and
stir until it boils. Remove from the fire; add the chopped
parsley, half a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt, and pepper.
Arrange the fillets, when done, on a hot platter; add to the
sauce whatever liquor may remain in the flat tin pan; pour
the sauce over the soles and serve.
TO FRESHEN SALT FISH.
Lay the fish in cold water, carefully turning the skin-side
upward, otherwise the salt in melting will all settle in the
skin, and the fish be as salt as ever.
Put the flesh side down, and naturally the salt falls to the
bottom of the water.
HERRING BALLS.
3 bloaters, or red herrings, Cream, and butter,
Equal bulk of mashed potatoes, Eggs,
Lard, Bread-crumbs for dipping.
Partly boil the bloaters or herrings; remove the skin;
take all the meat from the bones; add to this the mashed
potatoes made from potatoes baked in their skins. Add a
large lump of butter and cream enough to soften it. Form
into balls; roll in egg and bread-crumbs and fry in lard
or butter golden brown. See General Directions for Fry-
ing. Take care not to make the mixture too soft, as it will
become still softer when subjected to the heat of the lard.
FINNAN HADDIE.
Cut a piece of the size required. Put it into a frying-pan
with boiling water to cover. Boil 5 minutes. Throw off the
water; add a lump of butter; when it melts, and the fish is
well-covered with it, serve.
BROILED SALT MACKEREL.
Soak overnight. Next morning drain well and wipe dry.
Broil over a clear fire. Now put it on a platter; pour boil-


SHREWSBURY "COURT-BOUILLON." 65
ing water over it; in 1 or 2 minutes throw this off. Melt 1
teaspoonful of butter in 1 gill of hot cream. Pour over the
fish. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve. Recom-
mended.
POTOMAC HERRING.
Select those with roe, by preference. Prepare as directed
for Finnan Haddie.
YARMOUTH BLOA TERS.
Prepare as directed for Finnan Haddie.
KIPPERED HERRING.
Prepare as directed for Finnan Haddie.
SURE WSBUR Y" COURT-BOUILLON"
4 medium-sized or 5 small onions cut fine,
3l4 lbs. fish (any kind that has firm
flesh will do),
30 large clams without the beards,
1 cup stewed tomatoes,
6 large sea-biscuits,
Clam-juice,
J4 sweet-pepper, chopped fine.
2 potatoes, cut in pieces (not indis-
pensable),
l4 cup red wine,
J-2 tablespoon of butter or sweet
drippings,
Small bunch of celery leaves, chopped
fine,
Larger bunch of parsley leaves,
chopped fine,
Salt, pepper,
Ground cloves, ground allspice,
nutmeg or ground mace, to taste.
Chop the onion and fry it gold color in the butter or drip-
pings. Remove the pot (an iron one is best). Lay upon
the onions in layers the fish, free from bones; sweet-pepper,
celery, and parsley chopped and sprinkled over ; then a pinch
each of the spices, pepper, and salt; then clams, tomatoes,
and sea-biscuit broken in pieces ; then again the fish, etc., aa
before, until all the ingredients are in the pot. Pour in all
the clam-juice which you have previously strained; add cold
water up to the level of the fish. Stew gently but
steadily 45 minutes. Remove with a soup-strainer to a
deep dish all that is solid, leaving the sauce in the pot. Add


66
GOOD-LIVING.
the red wine, and a little blending of corn-starch or flour
rubbed up in cold water. Let the same boil 3 or 4 minutes,
stirring frequently. Have ready the court-bouillon in a
deep dish with a cover, (not a soup-tureen); strain some of
the sauce over it. Serve what remains in a sauce-boat.
This will be found to be a most excellent modification of the
common chowder, and one which is far more acceptable to a
delicate palate. Its appearance when served is also more
tempting. Elsewhere will be found a receipt for conven-
tional clam chowder.
NEW ORLEANS "COURT-BOUILLON"
5 or 6 lbs. bass, halibut, or other fish, 3 onions, chopped,
I tablespoon of butter, I can of tomatoes,
I '' flour, 3 or 4 whole cloves,
I pint of claret, Pepper, salt, toast.
Fry the onions in the butter, then add the tomatoes and
cloves, etc. Let these stew together for 30 minutes. Then
add the flour blended with about £ a pint of the claret. Let
it boil, stirring constantly for 5 minutes, until the flour is
thoroughly cooked. Strain the sauce and return it to the
fire in a saucepan. Lay in the sauce the fish cut in steaks,
bass being best, but any firm fish will do. Let them sim-
mer gently until cooked, which will require from 6 to 10
minutes according to the thickness and quality of the fish.
Have ready in a deep dish, slices of dry toast, enough to
cover the bottom of the dish. When they are done, lay
the slices of fish on the toast; add the remaining \ pint of
claret to the sauce; pour it over the fish and serve. A piece
of sweet-pepper chopped may be added to the above sauce,
also cayenne and more spices, if preferred.
FROGS FRIED IN BA TTER.
Scald the legs 3 minutes in boiling water with salt
and a little lemon-juice ; dry in a towel; dip in Fritter-Batter
(see receipt), and fry in boiling lard until light golden-brown.
Drain on soft paper and serve with a bunch of fried parsley
on a folded napkin. Garnish with lemon.


FROGS W BROWN FRICASSY.
67
FROGS FRIED.
GRENOUILLES FRITES.
Having scalded the frogs' legs, dip them in egg and sifted
bread-crumbs and fry as above.
FROGS A LA POULETTE.
GRENOUILLES A LA POULETTE.
Prepare the frogs' legs as above. Make a Poulette Sauce
(see receipt) and warm the frogs' legs in it, being careful not
to stir in the eggs until the last. If boiled after the addition
of the eggs, the sauce will curdle.
A WHITE FRICASSY OF FROGS.
(OLD-FASHIONED RECEIPT.)
"Cut off the Hinder Legs; strip them of the Skin and cut
off the Feet, and boil them tender in a little Veal Broth, with
whole Pepper and a little Salt, with a Bunch of Sweet Herbs
and some Lemon-peel. Stew these with a Shallot till the Flesh
is a little tender; strain off the Liquor and thicken it with
cream and butter; serve them hot with Mushrooms pickled
tossed up with the sauce. They make a very good Dish, and
their Bones, being of a very fine Texture, are better to be
eaten than those of Larks."
FROGS IN BROWN FRICASSY.
"Prepare the Frogs as before, flour them well, put them
into a pan of hot lard and fry them brown, then drain them
from the Liquor and make a Sauce for them of good meat
Gravy; some Lemon-peel, a Shallot or two, some Spices
beaten [ground], a Bunch of Sweet Herbs, an Anchovy, some
pickled Mushrooms and their Liquor, and some Pepper and
Salt. Toss up these thick with Butter, pour the sauce over
them, and some Lemon-juice. Garnish with broiled Mush-
room Flaps and Lemon sliced."
These two antiques cannot be improved upon.



SHELL-FISH.
TERRAPIN.
Terrapins are always sold alive, and are in season from
November to March. Diamond-backs are the best, but are
very expensive. The males are small and of inferior flavor.
The common red-legs or fresh-water terrapins are quite good
and much less expensive.
PHILADELPHIA STEWED TERRAPIN.
3 terrapins, 2 gills of thick cream,
5 eggs, boiled hard, }4 lb. of butter,
2 tablespoons of flour, 2 gills of madeira or sherry,
I dessertspoon of salt, Cayenne to taste.
Put the terrapins alive into a pot of boiling water and boil
10 or 15 minutes, or until you can pull off the outer skin and
the toe-nails. Now put them back into fresh boiling water;
add a heaping teaspoonful of salt, and boil slowly until the
shells part easily and the flesh on the legs is quite tender,
from 1 to 1£ hours. When done, take out of the pot; save
2 gills of the liquor in which they are boiled. Remove the
under shell and allow it to stand until cool enough to handle.
Then take the meat out of the upper shells. Carefully
remove the sand-bags, bladders, the thick, heavy part of the
intestines, and the gall-bag which is found embedded in
the lobe of the liver, and throw them away. In removing
the gall-bag, be careful not to break it, as it would spoil the
whole terrapin. In the finer preparations of terrapin the
"ribbons" are not used. Break the terrapin into convenient-
sized pieces, add it to the liver broken up, also all the eggs
68


TO SERVE OYSTERS RAW IN A BLOCK OF ICE. 69
found in the terrapin, all the juices that have accumulated
during the cutting up, and the 2 gills of liquor saved from
the boiling. Set the terrapin in a china-lined saucepan upon
a moderate fire. Rub the flour, with a small portion of the
butter, to a cream. Stir it into the terrapin. Rub the 5
yolks of eggs to a very smooth paste with the salt, red pep-
per, butter, and wine. Add them to the terrapin; stir to
mix well. When hot, add the cream and serve immediately.
It must not boil after the cream is added, and indeed must
not stew more than about 5 minutes from the time it begins
to cook; only just long enough to cook the flour, and to
thoroughly heat tht other ingredients as they are added.
This is highly recommended, being the genuine receipt from
the best authority.
BALTIMORE TERRAPIN.
Have ready a pot of boiling water on the fire. When it
boils hard, lay in the terrapins and boil until the skin and
toe-nails will come off (see Philadelphia Terrapin). When
prepared as directed, cut up the meat. Season to taste with
cayenne, black-pepper, and salt. Put all into a stewpan with
the liquor that the terrapin has yielded while being cut up.
Add no water. To each terrapin allow \ lb. of best butter,
mixed with a teaspoonful of flour. Cover closely and stew
gently until the meat is very tender, and serve hot in a deep
dish. If the allowance of flour is not sufficient, add more.
N. B.—In removing the gall-bag be careful not to break
it, or the entire terrapin will be rendered uneatable.
TO SERVE OYSTERS RAW IN A BLOCK OF ICE.
Make a hollow in the centre of a block of ice by placing a
hot fiat-iron on the top, in whatever form may be desired.
Stand the block on a folded napkin upon a platter. Salt
and pepper the oysters before putting them in the ice. Stand
in a very cold place until served, that the ice may not melt.
Decorate with sliced lemon, and serve with cayenne and
lemon cut in quarters.


70
GOOD-LIVING.
RAW OYSTERS ON THE HALF-SHELL.
HUtTRES.
Serve the oysters on flat oyster-plates, 6 to each person,
putting a quarter of a lemon in the centre, and hand black
and red pepper. Or, use the usual dinner-plate, making a
bed of finely-chipped ice, on which lay the oysters in their
shells, 5 or 6 for each person. Hand lemon cut in quarters,
black and red pepper. A European custom worth importing
is to hand at the same time tiny tartines made of thinnest
brown bread, spread with freshest butter, and cut in neat
diamonds.
The oysters should be the largest and firmest obtainable;
Shrewsburys are best. Wipe them perfectly dry in a clean
cloth, and feel with your fingers that no pieces of shell remain
attached to them. Have ready in a saucer the egg slightly
beaten. Have ready in a bowl the bread-crumbs; fine rolled
crackers may be mixed with them. Season the crumbs with
salt, pepper, and a little grated nutmeg. Dip the oysters
first in egg, then cover thoroughly with the crumbs. Lay
on a dish, not touching each other, that they may dry. Set
away for 2 or 3 hours, if you have time. Put lard enough in
the frying-pan to cover the oysters. Bring it to a boil. See
General Directions for Frying. When the lard is ready, lay
in the oysters, not close enough to touch; use a frying-bas-
ket, if possible. In 3 to 5 minutes they will be done. If
the lard is deep enough, they will not require turning. As
they are removed from the lard, lay on a sieve or paper in
the mouth of the oven. When perfectly freed from grease,
dish. Serve very hot, garnished with sliced lemon and
parsley, and neatly arranged on a fancy paper.
FRIED OYSTERS.
HUFTRES FRITES.
50 largest oysters,
Fine dried bread-crumbs, sifted,
Salt and pepper,
Egg,
Grated nutmeg,
Lard for frying.


ROAST OYSTERS.
71
STEAMED OYSTERS.
Leave a covered dish where it will heat thoroughly. Open,
wash, and drain the oysters; put them in a shallow tin pan,
and place in the steamer. Cover and leave it over boiling
water until the oysters are puffed and curled, about 10 minutes
or more; then put them into a hot dish. They may be
dressed at table, or butter, salt, and pepper may be added in
the kitchen. Or, the oysters may be steamed in their shells,
washing them well beforehand. They should be placed in
the steamer over boiling water, covered close, and left until
the shells open easily. •
OYSTER PAN-ROAST.
Wipe the large, opened oysters dry on a clean cloth, pick-
ing off all bits of shell. Leave the cloth covered over them
while you heat a shallow frying-pan very hot. Put in, then,
a lump of butter, and when it melts, add the oysters and let
them fry until they begin to brown slightly, turning con-
stantly and keeping the pan very hot. Have ready a hot
dish with a generous lump of butter in it. When the oysters
are done, turn them in; add salt and pepper; cover well
with the melted butter. Serve.
DEVILLED OYSTERS.
HUITRES A LA DIABLE.
Prepare according to the receipt for Devilled Crabs,
putting the force-meat into some of the deepest oyster-shells
which have been scrubbed clean; or into silver or china
shells.
ROAST OYSTERS.
HUITRES ROTIES.
Scrub the oyster-shells; stand them on their hinges on the
top of the range, and roast until quite firm. Remove the
flat shell from each; put a small piece of butter into the
deep shell with the oyster, and serve very hot.
Or, place on their hinges in a baking pan; roast in a quick
oven until quite firm, and serve as directed.


72
GOOD-LIVING.
OYSTERS A LA POULETTE.
HUITRES A LA POULETTE.
Prepare as directed for Curried Oysters, omitting the
curry-powder and adding I gill of sherry or white wine.
When the oysters are cooked, remove from the fire, and stir
in the yolks of 2 eggs beaten up with 2 tablespoonfuls of rich
cream. Serve immediately.
STEWED OYSTERS.
•50 oysters, . pint of cream,
I tablespoon of butter, I gill of bread-crumbs,
1 pint of boiling water or juice, Salt and pepper.
Drain the oysters in a colander; rinse, to remove all shell
and grit. Put the bread-crumbs in the water or juice and
stew for 5 minutes; then add the oysters, and, in ten min-
utes, add the cream, butter, salt, and pepper. Boil up once
and serve. Oyster-juice is preferable to boiling water, if
obtainable in suff1cient quantity.
OYSTER FRITTERS..
BEIGNETS d'HUITRES.
, 25 large oysters, 2 eggs,
I cup of milk, I teaspoon of salt,
A pinch of pepper, 2 cups of flour,
Yz teaspoon of baking-powder.
Drain the oysters to remove any shell and grit. Chop
fine. Beat the eggs together until light; add to them the
milk, then the flour and salt and beat until perfectly smooth.
Add the dry oysters and baking-powder. Mix, and drop by
spoonfuls into boiling lard, having first tested the lard (see
General Directions for Frying). Fry golden brown;
drain on a piece of paper in the mouth of the oven, and serve
on a folded napkin or cut paper. Do not use a fork to re-
move them, as piercing would render them heavy.
Or follow receipt for Clam Fritters.


PICKLED OYSTERS.
73
OYSTERS A U PARMESAN.
HUITRES AU PARMESAN.
Oysters, Butter,
Bread-crumbs, Chopped parsley,
Grated parmesan, I gill of white wine,
Cayenne.
Butter a shallow dish; strew with brown bread-crumbs.
Wipe the oysters; see that they are free from grit; lay them
on the crumbs; strew parsley and cheese over them, then
more crumbs. Pour in the white wine and put them in a
quick oven. Pour a little melted butter over the top and
when browned (20 minutes) serve.
CODDLED OYSTERS.
Oysters, Pepper and salt,
Butter, Toast.
Drain the liquor from large oysters. Heat a large lump of
butter in a saucepan. When it is hot, add the liquor.
When the liquor boils very hard, drop in the oysters and
cook until the beard curls and the oyster is quite firm. Have
the bottom of a deep dish covered with slices of toast; lay
the oysters on these; pour the liquor over the toast; add
salt and pepper and let stand in a warm place until the
toast has absorbed all the liquor. There should be no super-
fluous liquor. If the oysters have yielded too much in the
first instance, you need use only enough to soak the toast
well.
PICKLED OYSTERS.
100 large oysters, 12 blades of mace,
2 heaping teaspoons of whole allspice, 1 sliced lemon,
2 level " "cloves, I pint of vinegar,
1 lady-finger pepper, Salt to taste.
Drain the oysters. Free every one from shell or grit,
being careful not to bruise or tear them. Strain the liquor
into a china-lined kettle, selecting one that will not scorch
easily. Add as much boiling water as there is oyster liquor.
Bring this to a boil. When boiling, lay in the oysters, a few
at a time, that you may watch them well. Boil until the
beard curls and the fat part of the oyster feels perfectly


74
GOOD-LIVING.
firm between your thumb and finger. Lay them on open
platters where they will cool. After a while turn them over
and cool the other side. The oysters must be absolutely
cold all through, or they will be slimy when pickled. When
all the oysters are cooked and set to cool, remove the
liquor from the fire, and wash out the kettle. Strain I quart
of the liquor into the kettle, add to it I heaping tcaspoonful of
the allspice and 1 level teaspoonful of cloves—that is twice as
much of the former; a small piece of red pepper, about \ a
teaspoonful of salt, and 6 leaves of mace. Set it where it
will simmer for about 30 minutes, until the liquor is well
flavored with the spices. Meanwhile, as soon as the oysters
are perfectly cold all through, put them into a stone jar with
the lemon sliced very thin, (remove the pips), the lady-finger
pepper, from which remove the seeds, the remainder of the
cloves, allspice, and mace. When the boiling liquor is suf-
ficiently flavored, remove it from the fire, add the vinegar,
(the quantity given is for strong vinegar); set it again on the
fire to heat, and then pour it through a strainer over the
oysters and fresh spices. Do not use the spices that have
been boiled. The amount of liquor allowed should cover
the oysters entirely. Cover the jar and set in a cold place
for 24 hours before using. If always well covered with the
pickle, these oysters should keep for several weeks in cold
weather. If they are to be kept, next day pack the oysters
in clean preserve-jars; fill them to cover with the pickle,
screw on the tops, and set in a cold place. Delicious.
N. B.—Be careful not to scorch the liquor, or the oysters
will be spoiled.
OYSTER PTE.
pAte d'hu1tres.
100 large oysters, 6 yolks of eggs,
I tablespoon of flour, I level tablespoon of butter,
I " of mixed ground spices, Salt and pepper to taste,
I large slice of stale bread, grated.
Line a large round dish with Good Plain Paste (see
receipt), rolling the bottom very thin, and building up the


SCALLOPED OYSTERS.
75
edges with I or 2 extra layers. Drain the liquor from the
oysters; see that they are free from all shell and grit. Put
them and the butter rubbed with the flour in a saucepan on
the fire. Add the seasonings and stir well. Add I pint of
the liquor strained and boiling. Stir smooth. Chop the hard-
boiled eggs fine. Pour the oysters, in 5 minutes, when
scalded, into the dish; sprinkle the bread-crumbs and eggs
over the top. Cover with a lid of paste rolled about £ an
inch thick. Trim and notch the edges neatly. Cut a hole (x)
in the centre. Roll up a small sheet of pastry, notch it
crosswise with a knife, and bake it on a separate tin. Some
pastry leaves may also be cut out and arranged on the top of
the pie. Set in a moderately-quick oven and bake for about
30 to 40 minutes. Watch that one side does not bake faster
than the other. Boil some of the remaining oyster-liquor.
When the pie is done, pour it through the hole in the top;
place the pastry rose over the hole and serve.
Scald the oysters in their own liquor. Drain them, and
remove all grit or pieces of shell. Butter the scallop-shells
and shake fine bread-crumbs over them. Fill them with
alternate layers of oysters, crumbs, and lumps of butter;
season each layer. Pour in some of the oyster-liquor
strained. Cover the top with bread-crumbs moistened with
melted butter. Place them in a quick oven for about 5
minutes to brown the top.
Or: Follow the above directions, using 1 large dish instead
of shells, filling with alternate layers, adding cream as well as
the oyster-juice to moisten it. Bake 15 minutes until well
browned.
SCALLOPED OYSTERS.
HUtTRES EN COQUILLES.
50 oysters and their juice,
Bread-crumbs,
Butter,
Salt and cayenne.


76
GOOD-LIVING.
OYSTERS FOR PATES, Etc.
I quart of oysters, Butter size of an egg,
small onion, grated, I teaspoon of flour,
I gill mushroom-juice, Salt and pepper,
yi, box of mushrooms, Chopped parsley,
Lemon-juice.
Bring the oysters to a boil in their own juice. Drain
them. Put the butter into a saucepan; when hot add the
onion and flour and stir well until smooth. Now add I gill
of the juice of a can of mushrooms, pepper, salt, parsley, and
the mushrooms cut not too fine, that is in halves or quarters.
Then add the oysters. Stir all together until the oysters are
firm. Add lemon-juice to taste, and a little cayenne. Serve
in pa.tes, caisses, vol-au-vent, etc.
CURRIED OYSTERS.
HUITRES AU KARI.
50 oysters with their juice, 1 tablespoon of butter,
I gill of cream, or 2 of good milk, 2 tablespoons of flour,
Pinch of corn-starch, Small saltspoon of curry-powder,
1 tablespoon of fine-chopped parsley, Salt.
Drain the oyster-juice into a saucepan and put on the fire
to boil. Wipe the oysters, which should be large and firm,
in a clean cloth, carefully removing any pieces of shell. Put
in another saucepan the butter and flour. Rub smooth, but
do not brown. When the oyster-juice, to which you have
added a little milk (if you have no cream), comes to a boil,
stir it into the flour very slowly, stirring constantly to prevent
lumps. Let this boil a few minutes. Rub up the curry-
powder with a pinch of corn-starch or flour and a few drops
of cold milk or water. Stir this into the sauce. When
boiling hard, drop in the oysters as dry as possible, and let
them cook quickly, until you can feel the fat part firm. Add
salt. If the sauce is not thick enough to cling to the
oysters, add a little more corn-starch rubbed up in cold milk
or water, give one boil and serve in a dish bordered with rice.
Sprinkle parsley over the oysters.


MlifCED OYSTERS.
77
OYSTERS STEWED IN A CHAFING-DISH.
2 tablespoons of milk or oyster-juice, 25 oysters,
1 heaping teaspoon corn-starch, 1 teaspoon of butter,
Salt, pepper, dash of nutmeg, 2 tablespoons of sherry (may be omitted).
Melt the butter. When it bubbles, put in the oysters
without the juice. Add pepper, salt, and nutmeg, and put
the cover on, raising it every little while to stir the oysters
and turn them. Rub the corn-starch with the milk, if you do
not use sherry; if you do use the wine, blend the corn-starch
with some of the cold oyster-juice. When the beards of the
oysters begin to curl, stir in the corn-starch. Stir and boil
until the corn-starch thickens well, then add the sherry; stir,
and the oysters are ready to eat.
OYSTERS EN RROCHETTE.
HU1TRES EN BROCHETTE.
Take a long skewer (silver or plated is best); string upon
it, alternately, oysters and bits of sliced bacon cut to the size
of the oysters. The extreme ends should terminate with the
bacon. When all are in place, broil the whole over a clear
fire until the oysters are firm. Have some butter melting by
the side of the fire; lay the oysters on a hot dish; pour the
butter over; sprinkle with pepper, and salt, and serve. If
the skewers are not presentable, draw the oysters off and dish
them alternately with the bacon.
Very simple and good.
MINCED OYSTERS.
HUITRES EN HACHIS.
50 oysters,
6 fresh (or canned) mushrooms, minced,
1 gill fish-stock (or the oyster-juice),
2 tablespoons of rich cream,
Parsley; chives chopped fine,
the bulk when minced, in cold fish,
I gill white wine,
3 yolks of eggs,
1 tablespoon of butter,
1 teaspoon of flour.
Have ready a saucepan of boiling water; throw in the
oysters; when it comes again to a boil, skim them out; throw


GOOD-LIVING.
into cold water for a minute; wipe dry and mince not too
fine. Add to this mince half the bulk of any fine, white,
cold fish minced fine, (or omit this, if not obtainable). Now
put into a saucepan the butter, I tablespoonful of parsley,
I teaspoonful of chives chopped very fine, and the mush-
rooms. Let them stew gently for about 5 minutes, dredging
in about 1 teaspoonful of flour when the butter melts; stir it
a few times. Add the white wine and Fish-Stock (see re-
ceipt), or failing this latter, use the same amount of oyster-
juice strained. Mix. Add the mince, and stew gently until
all the sauce is entirely absorbed and the mince becomes like
a thick batter. Be careful it does not scorch. Remove from
the fire and stir in the yolks of eggs beaten with the cream.
Stir again over the fire for about 1 minute. Have ready
large Croutons (see receipt), or puff-paste shells; when the
mince is ready, serve on these.
Highly recommended.
OYSTERS AND MACARONI.
HUITRES AU MACARONI.
50 oysters parboiled in their own juice, Y2 lb. macaroni,
I small teacup of cream or White Sauce, Bread-crumbs,
Cayenne and salt, Grated lemon-peel.
Boil the macaroni in salted, boiling water 25 minutes, or
until very tender. Drain thoroughly. Lay in a deep fire-
proof dish. Put upon it a thick layer of oysters with
cayenne, salt, and grated lemon-peel. Pour over all a small
cupful of cream, or, if you have none, use same quantity of
White Sauce (see receipt), the consistency of cream. Cover
the top with bread-crumbs, and brown in a quick oven.
Serve hot with Sauce Piquante (see receipt). The oysters
will require fully 10 minutes to complete their cooking in
the oven, having been boiled only until the beards have be-
gun to curl.
TO BOIL A LOBSTER.
Have a large kettle on the fire with plenty of boiling
water, deep enough to cover the lobster well. Put in £ to 1


BROILED LOBSTER, CALLED A L'AMERICAINE. Jg
cupful of salt. When the water is galloping, put in the
lobster head-foremost and keep it under water with the poker
for a minute until it is quiet. Boil 15 to 20 minutes a lobster
of 2 to 4 pounds. Lobster is even better boiled in sea-
water.
N. B.—If a boiled lobster was alive when it was cooked,
the tail when pressed out, should be elastic and spring back
instantly. It is advisable never to buy a lobster which has
not been seen alive; when, however, it is unavoidable, the
above may be of service in selecting.
TO DRESS LOBSTERS COLD.
Crack the shell of the claws carefully, not to mash the
meat; remove it and place upon a dish; crack the second
small joint of the claws—pick out the meat also. Now turn
the lobster on its back; lay a heavy knife on the middle of
the tail, all the way up to the body. Give it a gentle blow
with the hammer; then with both hands, turn back the shell
and draw out the tail intact. This leaves the tail still at-
tached to the body and its shell. Twist off the claws from
the under side of the body, and open it so that the fat may
easily be reached. Now open the tail in length half-way
through on the under side; remove the black vein from body
to end. Place the lobster on the dish. Arrange the large
claws towards the front, and the small claws around as a
garnish. Dress with parsley and serve. Or the body may also
be stripped of its shell and opened; in which case, remove
the "lady's arm-chair" (or stomach) and sand-bags. This
is not as pretty a way as the first described, but gives a little
more edible meat.
BROILED LOBSTER, CALLED A L'AMERICAINE.
HOMARD A L'AMERICAINE.
Remove the small claws, " lady's arm-chair " (stomach), and
sand-bags from a live lobster, splitting it with a heavy knife


8o
GOOD-LIVIttC.
and mallet from head to end of tail. Spread open on a hot
gridiron over a fiercely hot bed of coals. Turn and broil
about 20 minutes. Serve with plain Melted Butter (see
receipt).
LOBSTER A LA NEWBERG.
HOMARD A LA NEWBERG.
I lobster, from 3^ to 4 lbs, Cayenne, salt,
1 gill of sherry, I tablespoon of brandy,
I pint of cream, 1 " "butter,
4 yolks of eggs.
Put the lobster head-foremost into a pot of boiling water,
and boil 15 minutes. Take it out and allow it to cool. Re-
move the meat from the shell and cut it into square pieces
about the size of a walnut. Put them into a stewpan with
the sherry, brandy, and a piece of butter the size of an egg.
Add a little cayenne. Let all boil for 5 minutes. Prepare
in a bowl with cream, the yolks of eggs and a little butter.
Mix well and stir it into the lobster while the latter is boiling.
Do not let boil again after the cream is added to the lobster,
or it will curdle. Serve in a very hot dish.
LOBSTER CHOPS.
COTELETTES DE HOMARD.
2 oz. of butter, 2 oz. of flour,
I cup of cream, 3 yolks of eggs,
Nutmeg, lb. of boiled lobster meat,
Cayenne and salt, Egg for dipping,
Lard for frying, Sifted bread-crumbs for dipping.
Cut the lobster into very small dice. Put the butter and
flour into a saucepan on the fire. Blend and stir, but do not
color. Add the boiling cream and the lobster dice. Stir 2
or 3 minutes. Remove from the fire. When slightly cool,
stir in the beaten yolks of eggs, a dash of nutmeg, cayenne
and salt to taste. Return to the fire and stir until the eggs
are well set. Butter a platter. Spread the mixture upon it


Lobster farcied.
8l
\ an inch thick. When cold and firm, form it into chops
pointed at one end. Dip first into bread-crumbs, then into
eggs, then again into the crumbs. Let them stand in the
ice-box for 1 hour at least. Have the lard boiling in the
frying-pan. Test it with a piece of bread. See General
Directions for Frying. When the lard is ready, lay in the
chops, using a frying-basket if possible; fry golden brown.
Drain on brown paper in the mouth of the oven. Stick a
claw in the end of each chop, and dish in a circle. Garnish
tastefully, and serve with Tartare Sauce (see receipt).
LOBSTER CURRY.
HOMARD AU KARI.
I lobster, medium size, 2 onions, minced,
1 oz. of butter, I tablespoon curry-powder,
2 gills of stock or water, Juice of half a lemon,
Salt and cayenne, Boiled rice.
Cut the boiled lobster into dice; fry the onion in butter;
stir in the curry-powder and stock Or water. Stew all to-
gether until beginning to thicken, then put in the lobster
meat. Stew for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Just before serving, add the lemon-juice, salt, and cayenne.
Dish with a wall of boiled rice around the edge and the lob-
ster in the middle.
DEVILLED LOBSTER.
HOMARD A LA DIABLE.
Having boiled the lobster and picked out the meat, remove
the black vein from the tail. Save all fat, green and red. Chop
the meat and dress exactly as directed for Devilled Crabs; fill
the lobster-shell with the mixture; cover with bread-crumbs;
bake 15 minutes until browned.
LOBSTER FARCIED.
HOMARD FARCI.
Proceed exactly as for Crabs Farcied, having removed
the black vein from the tail of the lobster.
6


GOOD-LlVltfG.
SOFT-SHELL CRABS FRIED.
Raise the ends of the crabs and remove the sand-bags
and spongy substance from beneath the shells. Wash well
and wipe. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Put equal parts
of lard and butter in a frying-pan on the fire; when boiling,
lay in the crabs. Turn them when partly done; leave them
longest on the white or under side. They will take from 10
to 15 minutes to cook, according to size. Rub a little fresh
butter over the backs of the crabs when dishing, and serve
very hot.
BOILED HARD-SHELL CRABS.
Have a large pot of boiling water on the fire. Put in from
I to 2 gills of salt. When boiling hard, pick up the crabs
with the kitchen tongs; drop them into the water head fore-
most, if they will allow it, and boil rapidly for about 10
minutes, or until the shells are bright red, but no longer, or
they will become watery. The livelier they are, the better.
They must be alive when put into the pot. Crabs do not
keep long when once cooked; in summer not over 36 hours;
lobsters likewise.
DEVILLED CRABS.
CRABES A LA DIABLE.
6 oz. of crab-meat, 2 oz. of bread-crumbs,
2 hard-boiled eggs, crumbed, Juice of half a lemon,
Cayenne and salt, Cream.
Pick the meat from boiled hard crabs. Wash the shells.
Fill the shells with the above ingredients mixed. Use Cream
Sauce if you have no cream. Sprinkle fine bread-crumbs
over each, and a lump of butter on top. Brown in a quick
oven.
CRABS FARCIED.
CRABES FARCIS.
Picked crab-meat, Grated bread-crumbs,
Salt, pepper, Butter,
Cayenne, Lemon-juice.
After picking the meat from the shells, allow a little more
han one quarter the weight of the meat in crumbs. Cover


PRIED SCALLOPS.
83
with bread-crumbs; dot the top with butter, and set in the
oven 10 minutes or until lightly browned. Serve on a napkin
with lemon and parsley.
CRAB SALAD.
CRABES EN SALADE.
Picked crab-meat, Head of lettuce,
2 tablespoons of sweet oil, I saltspoon of salt,
1 tablespoon of vinegar, Pepper and cayenne to taste.
It will take the meat of at least 12 to 15 crabs of medium
size to make a salad for six persons. Pick it carefully, keep-
ing the pieces as large as possible. Lay it in a bowl. Mix
the dressing as above; pour over the crabs; mix thoroughly
and set in the ice-box. Put a row of crisp lettuce leaves
around the edge when ready to serve. The quantity of
dressing may be increased according to the quantity of meat
the crabs yield. Recommended.
FRIED SCALLOPS.
•
1 quart of scallops, Bread-crumbs,
I egg, Lard,
Pepper, salt, Nutmeg.
Wash the scallops. Wipe dry in a clean cloth. Dip first
into the egg, which you have beaten sufficiently to mix yolk
and white; then into fine, sifted, dried bread-crumbs, or
mixed bread and cracker crumbs. The bread-crumbs must
be seasoned with salt, pepper and a dash of nutmeg. Lay
the scallops on a dish, separated, so that the air may dry
them. Set them away for an hour or more, then fry golden
brown (see General Directions for Frying). They must
be shaken constantly so as to prevent browning unevenly.
The secret of cooking these well, is to dip them nicely, and
not to fry them more than about 3 minutes, the lard being
quite boiling. They should be of a pale golden brown. As
a rule they are cooked too much. Dry well on a sieve or
paper in the mouth of the oven, and serve very hot on a cut
paper garnished with parsley and lemon.


GOOD-LIVING.
SCALLOP SALAD.
Scald the scallops in salted boiling water for 3 minutes.
When cold, cut each in two. Put into a salad bowi. Dress
with French Dressing (see receipt), adding a dash of cayenne.
Surround with crisp young lettuce leaves. Recommended.
STEWED SCALLOPS.
Proceed exactly as for Stewed Oysters, only cooking
the scallops a much shorter time, until slightly firm.
SCALLOPS A LA POULETTE.
The same as above, with the addition of the yolks of
2 eggs stirred in after the scallops are removed from
the fire.
SCALLOP PATE'S.
Prepare as for Devilled Scallops. Have ready some
pastry-puffs well heated. Fill with the mixture and serve.
DEVILLED SCALLOPS; OR,
A LA DIABLE.
I pint of rich White Sauce, I quart of scallops,
I small cup of stale bread-crumbs, Salt,
Curry-powder, Celery-salt,
I gill of sherry, Cayenne.
Scald the scallops. Chop not too fine. Stir the bread-
crumbs and scallops into enough White Sauce to blend
the whole without making it too liquid; the addition of the
wine will soften it still more. Add the seasoning, being
careful to put not enough of any one thing to permit its
particular flavor to predominate. The quantity of curry
can never be accurately defined, as it varies greatly in
strength. The only guide is, that it should not be recogniz-
able among the other ingredients. Put into buttered shells,
with browned bread-crumbs over the tops, dot with butter,
and bake 5 to 10 minutes, just long enough to heat
thoroughly through. .. .
.


CLAM FRITTERS.
CLAMS.
Note.—to open clams w1thout a knife.
Scrub the shells. Place the clams on their hinges in a
clean roasting-pan. Pour a few drops of boiling water into
the pan, and place it in the oven until the shells open easily.
Strain the liquor and use if required.
RAW CLAMS.
Select the smallest and most tender. Serve before dinner
in spring and summer. They should be as cold as possible.
(See receipt for Raw Oysters.)
CLAMS WITH CREAM.
50 small clams, Butter size of an egg,
I teaspoon of flour, 1 cup of boiling cream,
Clam-juice, strained, Pepper.
Chop the clams not very fine. Melt the butter in a sauce-
pan on the fire. Add the flour and stir well. Cook a few
moments, but do not color; add gradually the hot clam-
juice, then the clams. Stew 3 to 5 minutes. Add the cream
and pepper, also salt if required. Bring to a boil and serve.
FARCIED CLAMS.
Follow exactly the receipt for Farcied Crabs, using the
shells of the clams to bake the mixture in. Season with
plenty of cayenne and add chopped parsley. Be careful of
adding salt.
CLAM STEW.
Follow same directions as for Stewed Oysters, or
Oysters a la Poulette (see receipts).
CLAM FRITTERS.
Chop the clams fine, or simply cut off the beards and
leave the rest of the clam whole. Make a thick batter, see
below. Mix the clams with it and drop the mixture by the


86 GOOD-LlVlNG.
tablespoonful into boiling lard. Fry golden brown. See
General Directions for Frying; drain for a moment on brown
paper in the mouth of the oven and serve very hot, in a
pyramid on a folded napkin.
Batter for above:
^ lb. of flour, 2 eggs,
I level saltspoon of salt, I tablespoon of salad oil.
yi" " "pepper, I cup of water, or less,
^ level saltspoon of nutmeg.
Mix all together with the yolks of eggs. Beat the whites
to a stiff froth, then mix them with the batter, which should
be stiff enough to hold the drops from the spoon in shape
when dropped upon the batter. If you have enough clam-
juice use it in preference to water for thinning the batter.
N. B.—Oysters may be cooked as above.
ROAST CLAMS.
Scrub the shells. Stand them on their hinges on the top
of the range and roast until quite firm. Break off one shell;
put a piece of butter on each clam and serve very hot. Or,
stand the clams as described in a baking-pan; set the pan in
a quick oven for about 15 minutes, until the clams are quite
firm. Strain the juice into a sauce-boat, add a lump of butter
and pepper and serve.
CLAM CHOWDER NO. I.
50 clams, 2 gills of good stock, or milk,
1 onion, chopped fine, I tablespoon of butter,
Salt to taste, 2 tablespoons of flour,
Cayenne, I saltspoon of ground mace,
2 gills of cream, I " "powdered thyme,
8 oz. of potato, cut in dice, 4 oz. hard tack, in pieces.
When the clams have boiled 3 minutes in their own juice,
strain out and return the juice to the fire. Fry the onion in
butter, and the pork cut in dice; add the flour. Stir. When
cooked well, add the clam-juice, stock (or water), cream,
mace, thyme, cayenne, potatoes, and salt if necessary. When


CLAM CHOWDER MO. It.
87
the potatoes are tender (about 25 minutes) add the clams
whole or cut in pieces and the biscuits soaked in milk. Boil
until the clams are firm, and serve in a deep dish or tureen.
CLAM CHOWDER NO. II.
200 soft clams, I large onion, sliced,
I teaspoon of sweet marjoram, 10 large crackers,
I " "thyme, I can of tomatoes,
I " "sage, Chopped parsley,
I " "summer savory, ^ lb. butter,
1 large teaspoon salt, I saltspoon ground cloves,
Pepper to taste, 1 '' curry-powder,
2 gills of cream or rich milk.
Boil all but the milk together for about 40 minutes.
When done, add the milk or cream. Bring to a boil. Then
move from the fire and add 2 gills of sherry. Serve in
a tureen.



S
olo
TIME-TABLE FOR COOKING MEATS.
Hr.
Minutes.
......... per lb.
15 to 18
18 to 20
18 to
20
Sirloin of beef, oven, moderately under-done.......... per lb.
Sirloin of beef, before the fire, moderately under-done, per lb.
Rib-roast, boned and rolled, oven, moderately under-done,
per lb.
Leg of mutton, oven, moderately under-done ......... per lb.
Stuffed shoulder of mutton, oven, well-done..........per lb.
Saddle of mutton, oven, very under-done ..........
Loin of mutton, oven, “ “ ............ per lb.
Loin of veal, slow oven, very well-done (covered).....per lb.
Fillet of veal, slow oven, “ “ “ ..... per lb.
Stuffed shoulder of veal, slow oven, well-done (covered), per lb.
Leg of pork, slow oven, very well-done ............. per lb.
Loin of pork, slow oven, very well-done............. per lb.
Shoulder of pork, slow oven, very well-done ......... per lb.
Filet of beef, moderately-quick oven, under-done... ...whole
Liver, moderate oven, well-done ..
....whole 2
Liver, braised, simmered gently, well-done .......... whole 2
Beef, braised, simmered gently (from first putting on) . per lb.
Bouilli, simmered very gently “ “ “ “..per lb.
Cornbeef, simmered very gently “ “ “ “ .. per lb.
Brisket of beef, simmered gently “ “ “ .. per lb.
Ham, in cider. When cider begins to boil, allow....per lb.
Ham, in water. When water begins to boil, allow....per lb.
Leg of mutton, simmered very gently .........per lb.
Bacon, boil gently ........
........ per lb.
Tripe, boil ............
..........fully 5
15 to 18
20
45 to 60
About 36
32 to 35
30 to 32
About 30
18 to 20
18 to 20
15 to 18
15
88


DIRECTIONS FOR REHEATING, ETC.
89
DIRECTIONS FOR KEEPING MEA TS, ETC., WARM
AND REHEATING.
Sufficient attention is not paid to this detail, so important
to the achievement of furnishing a good table. First of all
must be laid down the rule that nothing is to be put into
the oven to keep warm. This is the easiest and most usual
mode; but it is a very bad practice, as the kind of heat to
which the article of food is thus subjected tends to dry the
surfaces, more or less, to leather or a crisp, and renders the
dish most unappetizing and unattractive. There is but one
right way to manage this matter.
Put upon a dish, bowl, or plate (according to its nature)
the article of food to be kept hot. Cover it over closely
with an inverted bowl, dish, or plate, as may be required.
Make it as nearly air-tight as possible. Fill with boiling
water a pot or saucepan into the top of which the plate or
bowl will fit. The saucepan should not be more than half
full of water. Set the dish or bowl over this; set the
saucepan back on the range where the water will be kept
at boiling point, and let it remain until required.
By observing these directions, it will be found that most
dishes will not suffer very much by being kept awhile.
There are exceptions to the rule. Croquettes do not keep
hot well in the manner directed. Indeed all fried things
are spoiled by standing, becoming limp and soggy. They
should rather be fried at the last moment, or if this is not
practicable, they may be reheated in the oven, leaving the
door open and allowing the croquettes to remain only just
long enough to heat, but not to dry up.
To reheat an ordinary dish, the hot-water system described
above should be employed, allowing sufficient time to heat
slowly.



BEEF.
GENERAL DIRECTIONS.
TO ROAST BEEF.
ROSBIF.
The best cut of beef for roasting is the sirloin or English
cut; that most commonly used is the rib-roast. The former
has the tenderloin under the rib-bone. A good piece of
this, where the filet is fine, should weigh at least 10 to
12 pounds.
Of the rib-roast, the third, fourth and fifth are the choice
cuts. Two ribs "cut full," as the butchers say, will make a
good-sized roast and weigh about 10lbs. It certainly makes
a more sightly dish of this cut to have the butcher trim
out the bones and skewer the end around the eye of the
meat. It lies nicely on the dish, and looks well; but is
hardly as sweet as when roasted with the bones left in. If
the bones are removed, save them for the soup-pot.
A third cut for roasting which is much used on the con-
tinent, and very little known here, is the cross-rib; a solid
piece of meat, with no bone and only a fair allowance of
fat. It is a most profitable cut, there being no waste, and it
certainly contains far richer juices than either of the other
cuts; very good qualities in a family where there are many
children or delicate digestions.
See that the piece, whatever may be the cut selected, is
neatly skewered, that, when roasted, it may present a proper
appearance. Place it in the roasting-pan (unless you are
blessed with an old-fashioned Dutch oven and can roast be-
90


TO KOAST BEEF.
fore the fire). With your hand, rub in as much flour all
over as the meat will hold, letting a little drop on the bottom
of the pan. Put dots of sweet drippings over the top of the
roast, using about 2 tablespoonfuls in all. Meanwhile, see
that your fire is in prime order and will not get too low for
the two hours to come. Turn all the heat into your best
oven. When the oven is at its hottest and best, set the
roasting-pan in. Shut the door and leave it for about 20
minutes; by that time it will have begun to brown nicely
and may require the pan to be turned. If not quite brown
enough, leave for another 5 or 10 minutes; then open the
door, draw out the pan and pour in about I cupful of boiling
water. Have at hand a long iron spoon with which to baste.
Baste the meat all over generously. Cover it now with a
second pan and set it back in the oven. Shut off all the
extra heat from the oven; close the draughts, and reduce the
temperature of the oven to a very moderate heat. Every 10
or 15 minutes baste again. When nearly done, sprinkle quite
thickly with salt and pepper and baste again. I can hardly
say "baste" often enough, as so much of the result of the
roasting depends upon it. The solid piece of 12 lbs. of beef
will be done, if the above directions are followed, and the
fire managed well, in exactly 2 hours. For a less solid
piece of the same weight (that is, of more surface and less
thickness), you would allow less time, say 9 minutes in-
stead of 10 to the pound. For sirloin, allow eight or nine
minutes, if liked very under-done. This turns out the beef
brown and juicy outside, delicate rosy-red and juicy inside;
no rawness anywhere through it, unless it has been subjected
to frost, in which case the time cannot be calculated. For
those who like their beef brown all the way through, no red-
ness at all left, you must allow 12 minutes at least to the
pound, but always following the above directions. The
sense of the matter is this: The first intense heat of the oven
sears the meat, keeps in the juices, and gives, at the same
time, a fine color to the surface and to the gravy which flows
from it. Lessening the degree of heat afterwards, cooks the


92
GOOD-LIVING.
inside without further scorching the surfaces; and covering
with a second pan keeps in the juices, prevents too much
evaporation, as well as too much browning. When once the
idea of roasting is grasped, a most important addition is made
to one's accomplishments as a cook. Intelligence and prac-
tice can do much, although the French do say, " II faut etre
ne r6tisseur."
When the meat is cooked, remove the roast to a hot
platter. Set the roasting-pan on the top of the range. Pour
in a few drops of water from the kettle, and stir well to de-
tach all the nutty-brown particles of flour that may have
adhered to the pan. Boil and stir for 3 or 4 minutes, then
strain into a gravy-boat, skimming off all the superfluous fat
(which you keep for drippings). Let me warn you against
the melancholy practice, which prevails, of adding flour to
the roasting-pan to burn and thicken the gravy. This is a
barbarism and a relic of antiquity. Nothing can be better
than the pure juices of the meat, and there is no more thick-
ening really required than the stray particles of flour which
fell from the meat when first put to roast. These have
cooked well and browned during the time of roasting, and
serve to make the gravy as rich as it ought to be. The
system of thickening with burned, bitter-tasting flour cannot
be too much discouraged.
There has recently come into use a double-iron pan for
roasting, which has a great many good qualities, and settles
satisfactorily the question and use of covering meats while
roasting. If used, follow very carefully the directions given
with it, that the roast may be neither too flabby and steamed,
nor too dried up. The old-fashioned Dutch oven is, of
course, the best of all; the patent roaster, with its clockwork
to make the roast revolve, is also admirable; unfortunately
they are fast disappearing. The time allowed for these is
slightly more than for the oven, but not more than 1 or 2
extra minutes to the pound.
The directions for beef-roasting have been given in detail,
as the general rules apply equally to nearly all roasted meats.


A PLAIN BRAISE OX " POT ROAST.
93
allowing, of course, the difference of time for the various
kinds, and will serve as reference in many cases.
Roast beef may be garnished with fresh-scraped (not
grated) horseradish (this is the English custom); also with
Yorkshire pudding.
YORKSHIRE PUDDING.
I pint of sifted flour, teaspoonful of salt,
I " "milk, 4 eggs.
Put the flour in a large bowl with \ of the milk, the salt,
and eggs. Beat and blend thoroughly; then add the rest of
the milk. This quantity may be baked in a pan I2x8x1
inch deep. Pour in some of the drippings from the pan in
which the beef is roasting. When the pan is hot, pour in the
batter upon the drippings, and bake from 30 to 40 minutes.
Cut in square pieces and dish around the roast beef.
A PLAIN BRAISE OR "POT-ROAST."
Heat an iron pot; put in a very little sweet drippings
(for poultry, butter is best); when hot, lay in the beef or
poultry; if meat, sear it; if chicken, brown it a delicate gold
color, uncovered. To this, add a small onion and a small carrot
chopped and fried in butter till very brown, but not burned.
Pour in boiling water to barely half the height of the meat or
chicken; add salt and pepper, and cover as tightly as
possible. Thicken the gravy or not, as you prefer. To
imitate a plain roast, do not thicken it. If thickened, use a
Roux(see receipt). Simmer 2 to 6 hours, according to weight
and toughness (see Time-Table). Veal must be cooked more
slowly and gently than any other meat, otherwise it becomes
stringy, and is indigestible. If mutton is tough, it will be
found a great improvement to beat it thoroughly with a
rolling-pin before cooking it.


94
GOOD-LIVING.
BEEF A LA MODE.
BCEUF A LA MODE.
10 lb. piece of beef from the round,
2 tablespoons of butter,
2" "flour,
2 carrots, cut in large pieces,
lb. salt pork,
^ lady-finger pepper, without seeds,
I large or 2 small cloves of garlic,
I tablespoon of vinegar,
3 sliced onions,
Parsley,
Boiling water,
6 cloves,
Bunch of celery,
12 allspice,
I bay-leaf,
I gill of sherry.
For the force-meat:
Bread crumbs,
Chopped onion,
Spices,
Thyme,
Butter,
Parsley,
I egg.
Minced salt pork,
Pepper,
Salt.
To be perfect, this should be made of a piece from the best
side of the round, weighing at the very least 10 (preferably
12 or 14) lbs., so that it shall not be less than 5\ to 6 inches
thick when cooked; but, of course, for a small family, a
smaller piece can be used, provided it be chunky, not long
and thin. The cross-rib cut is excellent for this purpose;
quite as tender, very juicy, and much more compact than a
piece of round of the same weight.
If you are in town, have your butcher lard it for you; if
in the country, and have to do it yourself, cut strips of fat
pork 3 or 4 inches by \ an inch thick. Make incisions
with a sharp knife at equal distances of about 2 inches, and
insert the strips of pork. Repeat this operation on the sec-
ond side of the beef. Here and there make incisions and
stuff in a little force-meat very highly flavored with parsley,
thyme, and a little chopped onion. The force-meat may be
made of bread-crumbs, etc. (see list of ingredients). Now tie
the beef very neatly in a round, with strips of muslin or
tape; string of any kind gives it a ribbed, ugly appearance
when cooked.
Heat an iron pot a little larger than your beef. Throw in


BEEF A LA MODE.
95
a few slices of salt pork. When the fat is melted, and the
pot fiercely hot, push tht pork aside and lay in the beef.
Do not cover. Let it sear 10 minutes on one side, then turn
and sear 10 minutes on the other side. The fire must be
intensely hot during this operation; if not, the beef must
sear a few minutes longer. This keeps in the juices of the
meat. In a separate frying-pan, fry meanwhile 2 or 3 sliced
onions in butter. When the beef is turned on its second
side, throw the onions upon it. Then put into the same
frying-pan 1 tablespoonful of butter and 2 of flour; stir
together until of a rich brown color, but do not burn; then
add by degrees enough boiling water to blend it. Pour this
over the beef, when the latter has been long enough on the
second side. Add to the pot sufficient boiling water to half
cover the beef. Let it come to a smart boil. Add 2 carrots
and a bunch of celery, cut in pieces, a bunch of parsley,
6 cloves, 12 allspice, £ a lady-finger pepper (without seeds),
I bay-leaf, 1 large or two small cloves of garlic, 1 tablespoon-
ful of vinegar. Cover the pot as tightly as possible to keep
in the steam. If necessary, wrap a cloth around the top to
prevent the escape of steam. Set on the back of the range
where it will keep up a steady, gentle simmer. It must cook
very slowly. Indeed this is the most important rule for this
mode of cooking. After the first 2 or 3 minutes, it must
cook very slowly; were it to boil, it would become stringy
and go to pieces, instead of melting into tenderness and
retaining its juices and its shape perfectly. For 10 lbs.
allow 6 hours. If it is done before that time you may know
that you have cooked it too fast. This includes the time
taken for the searing. Watch it well, and if your fire has
been too quick, and it is done before the allotted 6 hours,
set it aside where it will keep hot, but not cook any more.
When it is time to serve the beef, remove it to a hot
platter; pick out some of the best pieces of vegetable to
garnish the dish; skim and strain the gravy; add seasonings
and 1 gill of wine. Pour a little gravy over the beef, and
serve the rest in a sauce-boat. Treasure every drop of it.


96
GOOD-LIVING.
N. B.—Should the gravy steam away in the cooking, you
can add a little boiling water now and again, but very little at
a time. The gravy should be delicious.
Beef a la Mode is really much better cold than hot. If you
want to serve it cold, manage it in this way: When you have
dished your meat and strained the gravy, return to the pot
all the thick part left in the strainer; add to it a little broth
or boiling water. Stir and boil for a few minutes. When
you want to put away the beef, lay it in a deep bowl, mix all
the gravy that remains with the broth in the pot; strain the
whole over the beef; shut up tight to keep in the steam, and
set away in a cool place. This is a very simple way of mak-
ing a delicious dish. It will keep for several days in winter.
BRAISED BEEF, OR BEEF EN DA UBE.
BCEUF BRAISE OR EN DAUBE.
Is treated almost exactly the same as Beef a la Mode, ex-
cept that it need not be larded. The cross-rib cut is excel-
lent for this; but for that matter almost any of the usual
cuts may be used. The "horseshoe" does very well also,
if cooked slowly enough and long enough. For the real
daube, however, use the cross-rib. Sear as described in the
receipt for Beef a la Mode, after tying up the piece neatly.
Add the same vegetables and seasonings, and I cup of
stewed tomatoes. The same remarks also apply to the
mode of cooking. Allow 5 hours for 8 lbs., 6 hours for 10
lbs. Watch it, and see that it cooks slowly enough. For a
family dinner, serve with the vegetables, as they are excel-
lent; otherwise, serve without the vegetables.
Braising (or "pot-roasting") is a most useful process of
cooking, as it serves for nearly every kind of meat and poul-
try, and is an excellent resource when one is not perfectly
certain that one's joint is very tender. Try the same process
for rabbits, pigeons, poultry, veal, and mutton.


ROASTED FILET, ETC.
97
BOILED BEEF.
BOUILLI.
Select what is called by the butchers the "horseshoe"
piece. It should weigh at least 8 lbs., and from that to 10or
12. Put it into a large pot, and cover it with cold water, al-
lowing I quart to each pound of meat. Bring gradually to a
boil. Set on one side of the range where it will simmer
steadily, without a moment's intermission, until done. Al-
low from 32 to 35 minutes per lb., counting from the time
the beef is put on the fire, not (as usual) from the time
the water begins to boil. Calculate the time, and 2 hours
before it is to be done, add 2 or 3 carrots, cut in strips, a
large bunch of celery-leaves or head of same, 2 or 3 onions,
parsley, 1 or 2 leaves of cabbage (if winter), 2 or 3 turnips,
cut and trimmed neatly, and 1 teaspoonful of salt. When
the beef is done (it should be cooked until almost, but not
quite, ready to go to pieces), remove it to a hot dish. Have
ready a rich Tomato Sauce (see receipt). Pour some of the
sauce over the beef; arrange some of the vegetables around,
and serve the rest of the Tomato Sauce in a boat. This is
the national dish of the French people, and it is really excel-
lent, if properly cooked. Allow the broth to boil down
to one half or one third of its original quantity; strain and
set away. Some of it may be served, if necessary, the same
day, with the vegetables boiled with it cut in fine pieces,
mixed and served on a separate dish (see Pot-au-feu). A few
pieces of dry toast should be put into the tureen.
ROASTED FILET OF BEEF, LARDED.
FILET DE BCEUF PIQUE.
Trim the filet neatly, removing every shred of the muscu-
lar covering from the meat. Cut narrow strips of fat salt
pork and throw them into a bowl of ice-water to harden.
Use a larding-needle. Place a strip of the pork in the open
end of the needle, pushing it in as far as it will go. With this
7


98
GOOD-LIVING.
take a stitch on the uppermost side of the filet, the stitch be-
ing about I inch long, penetrating the meat only about \
an inch. Put your finger on the end of the strip of pork
and draw it out of the needle, leaving the ends of the pork
exposed about \ an inch at either end of the stitch. Repeat
this in even rows all down the centre of the side that is to
stand uppermost; begin a new row then about I inch
apart; try to make the ends of the new row come opposite
the spaces in the first row. Repeat these rows until all the
upper side is filled (or your patience exhausted). They
must look very neat and even. In the bottom of a baking-
pan lay 1 small onion, small carrot, stick or two of celery, all
cut in pieces, 4 cloves, and 1 bay-leaf. Lay the filet on this
bed, larded side uppermost. Dredge with pepper, and put
bits of butter over the top. In the pan put about 4 table-
spoonfuls of boiling water. Bake in a quick oven, basting
frequently, for about 45 minutes. Some authorities say 30
minutes, if the oven is very quick. It must feel quite elastic
under pressure, as it is always eaten underdone. Remove
the filet to a hot platter. Put in the pan 1 tablespoonful of
butter and 2 of flour; stir them together over the fire until
brown. Add 1 pint of broth, including the strained pan-
gravy. Stir. Boil 5 minutes. Strain; add 1 pint of fresh
or canned mushrooms; cook 5 minutes, then remove from
the fire; add 1 teaspoonful of Worcestershire Sauce, 1
tablespoonful of sherry, salt and pepper to taste. Pour it
around the filet and serve.
BROILED FILETS MIGNONS.
FILETS MIGNONS GRILLES.
Cut the filet crosswise in slices \ of an inch to 1 inch thick.
Remove all fibres and muscles from the outer edges. Have
the gridiron very hot under a fine, clear fire. Place a drip-
ping-pan beneath to catch the juices that will fall from
the filets. Dip these on both sides in good olive oil and lay
on the gridiron. In £ a minute turn them. Keep on turn-


FILET OF BEEF BRAISED.
99
them from side to side, leaving no one side longer than the
other. They will take about 8 minutes under an intense
fire. Have ready a tablespoonful of butter (or more accord-
ing to the number of filets) rubbed up with an equal quan-
tity of chopped parsley and the juice of \ a lemon. As the
filets are cooked, place them on a hot dish, spread them
thickly with this Maitre d'H6tel Butter; sprinkle with pep-
per and salt. Cover with a second hot dish and stand in the
open oven door for 2 or 3 minutes before serving, that the
butter may melt. Add the juices from the pan. The filets
should be dished in a circle, one overlapping the other. Fill
the centre with parsley, or with some delicate puree, or fresh
peas. Or serve with Madeira Sauce, with chopped truffles
and mushrooms.
FILE T OF BEEF BRA ISED.
FILET DE BCEUF BRAISE.
I filet, 2 carrots, sliced,
I onion, sliced, ^ turnip,"
Sprig of thyme, Parsley,
Stick of celery or leaves, 3 cloves,
Salt and pepper, 6 allspices,
Salt pork. 1 gill of sherry or white wine.
Cut the salt pork in long narrow strips and throw into a
bowl of cold water to harden. Lard the side that is to stand
uppermost. Use a larding-needle. Proceed as directed in
receipt for Roasted Filet of Beef Larded. The larding
must be very evenly and neatly done. It is one of the
finesses of cookery that requires to be demonstrated, at
least once, by one who has the knack of it; description is not
of very much assistance. Having larded the upper side,
then, proceed with the mode of cooking as follows:
Choose a pot with a cover to fit, or a double pan that will
fit in your oven. Having cut up the vegetables, fry them
slightly in a frying-pan with a little butter; lay these in the
pan in which you are to cook the filet, larding uppermost;


IOO
GOOD-LIVING.
add the spices and seasoning, wine, and only enough boiling-
water to quite half-cover the filet. Close it tightly. Bring
it to a boil, then set it back where it will barely simmer for
I hour to I hour and 20 minutes, according to the weight
and thickness of the filet. Then remove the cover of the
pot; set in the oven for 15 to 20 minutes, basting fre-
quently. The meat should, when done, be slightly elastic
under the pressure of the fork. Never pierce meat to see if
it is cooked; after very little experience you will be able to
tell by the firmness or slight elasticity under pressure
whether the meat is thoroughly done or slightly underdone.
When ready to remove the filet to a hot dish, strain the gravy
into a boat, skim and serve. This is a perfectly plain, un-
garnished filet, deliciously flavored and juicy. It is never as
red and soft as when simply roasted, but is none the less
good for all that. On the contrary, the above mode of treat-
ing a filet will be a revelation of new delights to those who
only know the soft, water-soaked, tasteless mass that most
filets are when cooked by the commonplace cook. Having
the foundation well-prepared, you can garnish the filet in
any of the various ways directed below.
FILETBRAIS& A UX CHAMPIGNONS.
Braise the filet as directed. Have ready 1 can of French
mushrooms, or half a pound of fresh mushrooms skinned and
slightly stewed in butter. When the sauce is strained, as
above directed, put it into a saucepan with some of the
liquor of the mushrooms; make a roux of 1 small teaspoon
of butter and 1 of flour well browned over the fire. Blend
the boiling sauce into the roux. Stir. Add the mushrooms
and 1 gill of white wine or sherry. Boil 3 to 5 minutes and
serve with the filet. If the mushrooms are fresh, try not to
break them in cooking; place them around the filet as a gar-
nish; put a little sauce on the dish and serve the rest in a
sauce-boat.


FILET AUX TOMATES FARCIES.
IOI
FILET BRAISE, MADEIRA SAUCE.
FILET BRAISE SAUCE MADERE.
Braise the filet as directed. Strain off the sauce. Add
to it an equal quantity of rich Tomato Sauce (see receipt),
and boil down for 5 minutes. Add one gill of sherry and
serve. Add also, if liked, mushrooms and truffles chopped
fine.
FILET BRAISE' AUX TRUFFES.
Braise the filet as directed. Make the sauce as indicated
above (Madeira Sauce). To this add some of the best truf-
fles that you can buy, cut in not too thin slices.
N. B.—Never buy any but the best truffles, from the most
reliable, first-class dealers, as there is a great deal of falsifica-
tion in this article, and the false truffles are very unwhole-
some.
FILET BRAISE A LA SOUBISE.
Braise the filet as directed, and serve on a Soubise Sauce
(see receipt).
FILET BAARNAISE.
Braise the filet as directed and serve with a Sauce Bear-
naise (see receipt).
FILE T AUX TO MA TES FARCIES.
This is a most dainty dish. Braise the filet as directed.
Select some small fresh tomatoes of uniform size; cut off the
stem-end and scoop out all the soft inside. Make a dressing of
chopped mushrooms, a tiny bit of finely-chopped or pounded
garlic (or grated onion), chopped parsley; have the bulk of all
this in stale bread-crumbs, and a large lump of butter, salt,
and cayenne. Put the mixture in a saucepan and stir until
the butter melts and becomes absorbed. Fill the tomatoes
with this dressing and sprinkle bread-crumbs over the top.
Lay the tomatoes in a saucepan that will fit in the oven; put


102
GOOD-LIVING.
a piece of butter and 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of broth in the
saucepan. Place the saucepan in the oven and bake for 20
to 30 minutes; longer if the tomatoes are large. Remove
the cover and leave the tomatoes in the oven until they are
slightly browned. When the filet is ready, strain the gravy;
thicken it slightly with a roux of 1 small teaspoon of butter
and 1 of flour browned over the fire. Blend the boiling
gravy into it. Boil 5 minutes. Add a little wine. Place
the filet in the middle of the dish, the tomatoes around, and
serve the gravy in a boat. Add any juices that may remain
in the saucepan in which the tomatoes were cooked. Garnish
the dish with parsley, etc., and serve.
TO BROIL A BEEFSTEAK.
BIFTEK.
The best cut unquestionably is the porter-house steak ; the
next best is the sirloin (of which in turn, there is a choice of
cuts); this is always a large steak, weighing from 3 to 4J- lbs.,
and it is not all profitable for broiling, there being quite a
long, coarse end which is only fit for stewing, etc. The
second best small steak, weighing from 1 to 2 lbs., is the
rib-steak, and also the "short-steak;" the most nutritious
and profitable, of course, is the round. The latter must
always be well-beaten and broiled quickly. If beaten enough,
it is excellent, the meat being much richer than the finer cuts.
The porter-house to be perfect should be cut very thick, 1
inch at least to 1£.
If large, the steak should under no circumstances be broiled
over the fire. Before beginning, see that the fire is clear
and clean. Place the gridiron where it will heat very hot.
Grease it. Lay the steak upon it, and in about 1 minute
turn it over. It must be turned very often, one side remain-
ing no longer than the other. An ordinary steak £ of an inch
thick should not require more than 8 or 10 minutes, to be
served done through, but red and juicy. Do not pierce it
with a fork to ascertain if it is done; press it with the flat


I
BRAISED BEEFSTEAK WITH BROWN GRAVY. I03
side of a knife or fork, and if only slightly elastic, it is done
enough. The firmer it is under pressure, the more cooked it
is. It should be served as described, red and juicy. Have
ready a tablespoonful of butter rubbed up with a tablespoon-
ful of chopped parsley and juice of £ a lemon. When the
steak is cooked, place it on a hot platter, and butter it over
with this Maitre d'H6tel Butter. Place it in the oven with
the door shut for 1 minute to melt the butter; sprinkle with
salt and pepper and serve. Of course a large sirloin steak
will require longer to cook. If the fire is very clear and free
from gas, the small steaks may be broiled over it; but the
practice should be discouraged as much as possible, as it is
the cause of much black, smoked meat, and of a very un-
pleasant flavor of coal-gas, if not managed by a careful,
clever cook.
BROILED STEAK A LA SHREWSBURY.
Broil a thick porter-house steak as directed. Select fine,
large, fresh mushrooms. Peel the tops, scrape the stalk and
cut it off about half an inch from the top. Lay these upper-
side down on a hot broiler and broil until tender; they will
not require more than 5 minutes. Turn, but broil longest
on the upper side. Have some butter softened; baste the
mushrooms with this. Dish them around the beefsteak.
Pour more butter over them; sprinkle with salt and pepper
and serve.
BRAISED BEEFSTEAK WITH BROWN GRAVY.
HIFTEK BRAISE AUX HUiTRES.
4^ lbs. of round steak, 1^ oz. of flour,
2 gills of oysters, 3 oz. of butter,
2 " "water, 1 teaspoon of pepper,
1 gill of wine, 3 teaspoons of salt,
2 blades of mace, % teaspoon of summer savory,
3 cloves, 4 allspice, I onion, grated.
The beef must be in one solid piece. The " horseshoe" or
"cross-rib" both being good for this purpose. Mix the salt,
pepper, and summer savory with the onion; rub the beef well


104
GOOD-LIVING.
with it on both sides; lay it in the kettle with the water,
wine, spices and I oz. of the butter rubbed with half an oz.
of flour. Cover closely and simmer gently until the beef is
tender, which will take from 2 to 3 hours, or, if the beef is
tough, possibly a little more. It must be cooked very slowly.
When tender, heat the frying-pan very hot, melt in it a little
piece of the butter; lay the beef in the butter, turn once,
frying until the outside is browned. Be careful not to harden
it. Then fry the oysters in the same pan. Lay the beef on
a platter with the oysters. Strain the gravy into the frying-
pan (there should be about 1 pint); rub the rest of the flour
smooth with a few drops of cold water; stir it into the boiling
gravy, and boil for 5 minutes ; longer if not quite thick enough.
Pour over the beef and serve.
The steak selected should be pounded almost to a pulp,
then pressed back into a proper thickness and cut in pieces 2
by 5 inches. Season with salt and pepper. Butter a tin
mould that will hold 1 quart; or use a china bowl if pre-
ferred. Make a good meat-pie paste (see receipts for Suet,
Potato or Good Plain Paste). Line the mould, letting the
paste lap over the edge. Dredge the beef with flour, and lay
it in the mould with the small onions parboiled, the catsup
and water. Wet the edges of the paste; place a cover of
paste over; press the edges together closely, and tie the
. mould in a clean cloth. Have ready on the fire a pot of
boiling water. Place the mould in it, top uppermost, and
boil for 4 hours. When cooked, turn it out and serve. A
crust may be made by mixing baking-powder with flour in
the proportions of 1 teaspoonful of powder to 1 cup of flour;
allow £ a pound of mixed lard and butter to 1 pound of the
flour. Crumb the butter, lard and flour together; add enough
cold water to make the paste just soft enough to roll out. If
BEEFSTEAK PUDDING OR POT-PIE.
Beefsteak from the round,
Butter and flour,
1 teaspoon of mushroom catsup,
Salt and pepper,
6 onions, parboiled,
y{ gill of water.


BEEFSTEAK AND ONIONS NO. II.
this crust is not rich enough, add a larger proportion of short-
ening. Always sift the baking-powder with the flour, before
mixing the flour with the shortening. Roll the under-crust
about \ an inch thick, the top crust I inch, or nearly. It
will swell of course; but for this sort of pie it is well to have
the crust thick.
The same receipt may be used for Chicken Pot-pie or Veal
Pot-pie, using a little ham with either, adding a pinch of
thyme to the seasoning.
BEEFSTEAK SMOTHERED IN ONIONS NO I.
Beefsteak, porter-house or round, Pinch of flour,
6 onions, cut fine, I pint of water,
2 oz. of butter, I teaspoon of salt,
yi teaspoon of pepper.
Stew the onions in a saucepan with the water, butter, and
seasonings; dredge in a little flour, and stir it through the
onions. When the onions are very tender, lay in the sauce-
pan a well-broiled beefsteak, and stew together for 10 min-
utes. If round-steak is used, beat it almost to a pulp with
the rolling-pin ; cut off the skin, and, when beaten, press back
into shape and into a proper thickness before broiling. Do
not on any consideration fry the steak. When finished,
dish the steak and cover it all over with the onions. The
onions will require nearly an hour of very gentle stewing to
cook them tender.
BEEFSTEAK AND ONIONS NO. II.
BIFTEK AUX OGNONS.
2yi lbs. of round steak, 6 or 8 onions, sliced,
Butter or sweet drippings, Flour,
2 teaspoons of vinegar, Pepper, and salt.
Have the steak cut from the upper side of the round, 1£
to 2 inches thick. Heat an iron pot very hot indeed; put in
a tablespoonful of butter or drippings, and when hot lay in
the steak. In 3 or 4 minutes turn the steak on the other
side and sear it for about the same time. Meanwhile put 1
tablespoonful of butter or drippings into a frying-pan with


lo6 COOb-LlVING.
the onions cut in slices; dredge over with flour, and fry
until slightly browned. Turn them into the pot with the
beef; add salt and pepper and enough boiling water to half
cover the beef. Cover the pot. Bring to a boil briskly,
then set back where it will only simmer very gently for 1£ to
2 hours. Or, you can cover the pot very closely and set it
in the oven for the same length of time, turning the meat
once. If the fire is not too strong the beef will be very
tender cooked in this way. A little boiling water may be
added if the gravy evaporates too fast. Dish the beefsteak
with the onions covering it completely. There should be
quite a good quantity of gravy when it is cooked. Pour this
over also. N. B.—This is a Beefsteak and Onions so deli-
cate and inoffensive that very few can fail to like it, where
the first receipt might be found too rich.
SCOTCH ROLL.
5 lbs. flank of beef, I tablespoon of sugar,
Y teaspoon of pepper, 3 tablespoons of salt,
""ground cloves, 3 " "vinegar,
Pepper and salt to taste, I teaspoon powdered summer savory.
Remove the tough skin from the flank; even it off
in thickness and shape with a sharp knife. Sprinkle the
spices, etc., over it. Roll up and tie well with a tape or
strips of muslin. Set aside 12 hours. Then put into a stew-
pan; cover with water and simmer hours. Thicken
the gravy with flour and boil £ an hour longer ; 4 hours
in all. Should you prefer to use corn-starch instead of flour
to thicken the gravy, add it 3 minutes before removing from
the fire. This is especially good eaten cold.
HAMBURG STEAKS.
Take 1 pound of steak from the upper round; hackle or chop
it very fine. Add to it 1 tablespoonful of onion-juice or grated
onion, £ a teaspoonful of salt and some pepper; mix well.
Wet the hands with cold water, and form the meat into balls
of about 2 tablespoonfuls each. This will make about 8.
Put 2 tablespoonfuls of butter into a frying-pan; when it is
very hot, put in the steaks ; in one or two minutes turn them


BEEF MARINE.
107
over. Brown equally on both sides. In about 6 minutes
remove them to a hot dish; put one tablespoonful of flour
into the pan; mix it smooth with the butter that remains
after cooking the steaks; add \ a. pint of boiling water, stir
until it boils; add salt and pepper; boil 3 minutes; pour
over the steaks and serve.
Mix the spices, salt, and pepper; with this rub both sides
of the beef; mix together the oil, vinegar, lemon-juice, an«3
melted butter; pour this over the meat in an earthen dish.
Let stand 24 hours in summer; longer if you choose, say 3
days, in winter, turning, in the former case once, in the latter
once each day, and keep in a cold place. Then put it, with
all the juices and spices, into a stewpan ; add the bay-leaves,
1 tablespoonful more of vinegar, a pinch of sugar, and I
clove of garlic. Half cover with boiling water. Fry the
onions brown in butter; add them to the beef. Then mix
together until brown, I tablespoonful of butter and 1 of
flour; blend with a little boiling water and add also to the
beef, stirring it in. Cover closely and set in the oven for
about 2 hours, turning the beef once when half-cooked.
When ready, remove the beef to a hot dish; set the pan on
the top of the range. If the gravy has cooked away too
much, add a little boiling water; stir it around; boil for a
few minutes, then strain through a fine strainer; put a little
over the meat and serve the rest in a sauce-boat.
The " brisket " and " plate-piece " are both best when cooked
in this way. The latter is most frequently corned, in which
case boil it. It must be uncorned to cook as above directed.
If either of these cuts is used the gravy must be carefully
skimmed. Allow 25 to 30 minutes per pound.
BEEF MARINE'.
BCEUF MARINE.
4 lbs. of beef, from round or shoulder,
4 tablespoons of olive oil,
I tablespoon of vinegar,
% teaspoon of ground cloves,
$ " " " mace,
2 bay-leaves,
I onion,
Juice of one lemon,
Cayenne,
1 teaspoon of ground allspict
l/i teaspoon
of salt.


GOOD-LIVING.
BEEF ROULETTE.
BCEUF EN ROULETTE.
2 lbs. upper round, cut thin, 2 chopped onions,
2 tablespoons of flour, Butter,
1yi pints boiling water, 2 cloves,
% teaspoon of pepper, I cup of tomatoes.
Mix for dressing:
I cup of chopped ham, 2 eggs,
I teaspoon of mixed mustard, I gill of stale bread-crumbs,
Sufficient stock or water to make a paste, Cayenne, salt.
Spread the dressing on the thin slices of beef. Roll up
and tie with tape or strips of muslin firmly but not too
tightly. Roll in flour. Fry to a good color in fat of pork
or ham, drippings or butter. Put into a saucepan. Fry the
chopped onions in butter till yellow. Add the flour. Stir
5 minutes; add the boiling water. Stir. Pour over the
meat. Add the other seasonings. Simmer gently for 3
hours. Keep covered. When half done, turn over. Dish;
strain the gravy over and serve.
BEEF ROLL.
ROULEAU DE BCEUF.
Make a rich biscuit-crust; roll out half an inch thick;
spread thickly with dressing for Beef Roulette, (see receipt)
to which add an equal bulk of minced cold beef; roll up;
put into a long loaf-pan with the lap uppermost and bake
about 30 minutes. When nearly done, draw it to the mouth
of the oven; brush over with egg; return to the oven until
nicely browned, and serve with Brown Sauce. Excellent.
OX-TAILS A LA TART ARE.
QUEUES DE BCEUF A LA TARTARE.
Cut the tails in 4 inch lengths. Boil. When done, re-
move from the fire. When cold, dip in egg and bread-crumbs
and fry golden brown. See General Directions for Frying.
Serve with Tartare Sauce (see receipt).


Kidneys stewed.
1og
BEEF STEW WITH OKRA.
RAGOUT DE BCEUF AU GUMBO.
3 lbs. of lean beef, 3 onions, cut fine,
I quart of tomatoes, peeled and sliced, Salt and pepper,
6 ears of corn, cut and scraped from cob, 2 oz. of butter,
\l/z pints of okra, cut not too small.
Leave the beef in one solid piece. It should be a chunky
cut from the cross-rib, horseshoe or sirloin-butt. Place it
over a moderate fire in a pot with water enough to cover the
meat. Add the tomatoes, okra, onions, corn; season with
salt and pepper. Add butter and stew very gently for 3 or
4hours, until the meat is perfectly tender and the vegetables
have become a thick puree. Dish the beef in the centre and
vegetables around. N. B.—A good summer dish.
SMOKED BEEF WITH CREAM, FOR BREAKFAST.
1 lb. of smoked beef, cut thin, I teaspoon of chopped parsley,
gills of cream, Pepper.
Put the. beef into a saucepan with cold water; let it heat
slowly. When it comes to a boil drain off the water. This
takes away a good deal of the salt, which is sometimes ex-
cessive. Add the cream; or use instead the same quantity
of Cream or White Sauce (see receipts). Season with pep-
per; add a very little salt if required. Simmer 10 minutes
very gently, and serve on slices of toast.
KIDNEYS STEWED.
ROGNONS DE BCEUF SAUTES.
I pair of kidneys, 1 tablespoon of butter,
yi pint of stock, 1 " "flour,
Salt and pepper, 1 " "mushroom catsup,
r tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce, 4" "sherry,
1 tablespoon of chopped parsley.-
Be sure, first of all, that the kidneys are perfectly fresh.
Split them in half; take out the white fat and the sinew
from the centre. Put them into a stewpan ; cover with cold
water and set on a moderate fire until the water almost


no
GOOD-LIVING.
boils. Drain this water off; cut into small pieces; cover
again with cold water and heat again. Do this three times
in all, being careful that the water never really boils, or the
kidneys will harden. Meanwhile put I tablespoonful of but-
ter and I of flour into a frying-pan and stir until brown; then
stir in gradually the boiling stock or water. Blend and stir
with a wooden spoon until it has boiled 3 minutes. Add
Worcestershire sauce, catsup, salt and pepper, and the
kidney. Stir again until the kidney is thoroughly heated;
remove from the fire; stir in the sherry and serve with
chopped parsley sprinkled over the top. N. B.—Take note
that the kidneys are not allowed at any time to boil, being
very much like eggs in the fact that the more they cook the
harder they become.
BEEF'S LIVER.
May be prepared according to any of the receipts given
for calf's liver, if it is directed to be used in slices. Before
cooking it, however, pour boiling water over the slices;
allow them to stand for 5 minutes; then wipe dry and cook.
KIDNEYS A LA TERRAPIN.
ROGNONS A LA TERRAPIN.
I kidney, I tablespoon of butter,
I egg, I " "flour,
pint of new milk, X " "chopped parsley,
Salt and pepper, 2 tablespoons of sherry.
Prepare the kidney as for stewing. When scalded 3
times make the following sauce: Stir together the flour and
butter in a saucepan over the fire, but do not brown; blend
with the boiling milk; stir and boil 3 minutes. Cut the kid-
ney in small slices or pieces; add salt and pepper; stir
until the kidney is thoroughly heated; remove from the
fire; add the yolk of I egg, the sherry and parsley; serve
immediately.


TO BOIL A SMOKED TONGUE.
Ill
BRAISED TONGUE.
LANGUE DE BCEUF BRAISEE.
I fresh tongue, boiled 2 hours,
I quart of liquor, in which the tongue was
Butter,
Flour,
I clove.
Salt,
Pepper,
Juice of I lemon,
I carrot, cut fine.
boiled,
Bunch of sweet herbs,
Small stick of cinnamon,
2 onions, cut fine,
I turnip,""
When the tongue has been boiled as above and trimmed,
fasten the tip around against the thick part (as you would
roll a rib-roast), tying or skewering firmly. Fry the vege-
tables until brown in butter. Remove from the pan and set
aside. Flour the tongue all over and put into the hot pan
with the butter. Turn it on all sides until browned slightly.
Put the tongue and all the other ingredients, except the
lemon-juice, into a pot which will fit in the oven. Close the
lid as tightly as possible to keep in the steam. Place the
pot in the oven. After \ hours open the pot, turn the
tongue and add the lemon-juice. Close as before and leave
\ an hour longer in the oven. Now put the tongue on a
hot dish and set it over hot water while you boil down the
gravy for 20 or 30 minutes, until of a good strength. If it is
not quite thick enough, mix a heaping teaspoonful of corn-
starch with a little cold water, stir it into the boiling gravy
and boil 2 or 3 minutes. Strain some of the gravy over the
tongue; serve the rest in a sauce-boat.
Soak the tongue overnight in cold water. Next morning
scrape and clean it thoroughly. Put it on the fire well-cov-
ered with cold water. Boil very gently until the small bones
in the root can be easily pulled out—about 4 hours. Then
lift off the pot and set it away until the water is cold; then
take out the tongue, trim off the coarse unsightly parts, skin
TO BOIL A SMOKED TONGUE.
LANGUE DE BCEUF FUMEE.


112
GOOD-LIVING.
and serve. Keep some of the water in which it has been
boiled, and when it is put away cold, let it be covered with
this, and it will retain its freshness and succulence. Or, wrap
it in a coarse, clean cloth, and put it in the ice-box.
JELLIED TONGUE.
LANGUE DE BCEUF EN GELEE.
Tongue, Gelatine (Cox),
Consomme or Broth, Wine and spices.
Having cleared the Consomme (see receipt), boil it down
with a few spices until strong and well-flavored. If it is
strong consomme, made with veal, or chicken and beef, it
may jelly firmly enough when cold. If, however, you use
Broth, dissolve the gelatine in cold water for 1 hour, allowing
I box of Cox's gelatine to 3 pints of, liquid. Pour the boil-
ing broth over the gelatine; stir a few minutes over the fire
until thoroughly dissolved. Strain. Add wine to taste. It
should measure at this stage 3 pints for 1 box of gelatine.
Have ready a mould with the cold boiled tongue, either
whole or neatly sliced; pour the jelly over and set away to
harden. Turn out and garnish with parsley and lemon.
FRESH TONGUE BRAISED WITH PUREE OF
POTATOES.
LANGUE DE BCEUF BRAISEE: PUREE DE POMMES DE TERRE.
Prepare according to receipt for Braised Tongue. Make a
soft puree of potatoes with plenty of butter or rich cream.
Lay a thick bed of this on a round platter and place the
tongue upon it. Serve with the sauce in a boat.
BRAISED TONGUE WITH SAUCE TARTARE.
LANGUE DE BCEUF BRAISEE, SAUCE TARTARE.
Braise the tongue as directed, and serve with Sauce Tartare
(see receipt).


CORN-BEEF. 113
BRAISED TONGUE WITH PURE'E OF SPINACH.
LANGUE DE BCEUF BRAISEE, PUREE D'EPINARDS.
Braise the tongue as directed. Serve on a Puree of
Spinach (see receipt).
BRAISED TONGUE WITH TO MA TO SA UCE.
LANGUE DE BCEUF BRAISEE, SAUCE TOMATE.
Braise the tongue as directed. Serve with a rich Tomato
Sauce (see receipt).
BRAISED TONGUE WITH SAUCE PIQUANTE.
LANGUE DE BCEUF BRAISEE, SAUCE PIQUANTE.
Braise the tongue as directed. Serve with Sauce Piquante
(see receipt).
BOSTON BROWN HASH FOR BREAKFAST.
Chop any remnants of steak, roast, or stew very fine. Put
a layer of mashed potatoes in the bottom of a deep buttered
dish; then a layer of the meat, then a layer of stale bread-
crumbs. Sprinkle with salt and pepper; dot the top with
bits of butter; moisten with \ a cupful of gravy; cover with
another layer of potatoes. Smooth the top with a knife
dipped in milk. Bake in a moderate oven 30 minutes until
well-browned. Serve hot.
HASH BAKED IN A MOULD.
Prepare the meat as for Corn-Beef Hash. Butter a quart
mould; pack the hash in it and bake 1 hour in the oven.
Turn it out and serve.
CORN-BEEF.
The most popular cut for this is the rump, a three-cor-
nered piece with sweet fat, but at least one third bone. The
best and most profitable, as well as the most delicate, cut, is


114
GOOD-LIVING.
that from the lower round; a long, narrow piece perfectly
free from bone, and much more sightly. It costs a little
more per pound, but it is quite worth the difference. The
plate and navel pieces are also excellent in their own way, but
should be eaten cold, not hot.
Put the corn-beef down to boil in a large pot of cold
water. Let it be well covered. Bring it gradually to a boil.
When well started, set aside to cook very gently—simmer,
not boil. Allow 20 to 25 minutes to the pound, counting
from the time when the water begins to boil. Calculate the
time, and when it is within 2 hours of being cooked, add 2
or 3 turnips, carrots, celery leaves, 1 or 2 onions, or 1 clove
of garlic. Finish the cooking. Dish with the vegetables
around. Keep the water in which the beef has boiled. When
it is ready to be set away, return it to the pot of broth; cover
and set away to cool. The difference made by this system is
incredible, the beef being deliciously tender when served cold.
If not too salt, use the broth as soup with apuree of potatoes,
beans, or peas, etc. Serve the beef, if liked, with cabbage, but
never boil the cabbage with the beef, as it renders both very
indigestible. To be good, corn-beef should be boiled until as
tender as chicken. The secret of this is, to cook it slowly
and long.
CORN-BEEF HASH.
Chop the meat fine, rejecting all hard gristle. Add half
the bulk of potatoes chopped not too fine. (N. B. The pota
toes for this should always be boiled with their skins on and
not allowed to be peeled until they are cold.) Put into a
saucepan a lump of butter as large as an egg, for a moderate
amount of hash. Add a few spoonfuls of boiling water .
when bubbling, put in the meat and potatoes mixed, very
little salt and plenty of pepper. Let it heat; stir now and
again, but be careful not to mash the potatoes. Then let it
stand still 10 or 15 minutes until it forms a crust at the
bottom. Form it into a neat loaf shape. Do not let it get
too dry. Loosen it from the pan with a cake turner; turn a


CORN-BEEF CROQUETTES. II5
warm platter over it; turn pan and dish together quickly and
serve. Only put toast under if the hash is scant in quantity
or not browned. A half onion grated is esteemed by some
a valuable addition; if used, see that it is grated and not
chopped, as the common practice is ; and a mistaken one it is
too, for the onion, of course, remains quite raw. A few
tablespoonfuls of stewed tomatoes and a few celery and
parsley leaves chopped very fine make a delicious addition to
the above. Recommended.
Chicken Hash may be prepared as above, without brown-
ing; also Turkey Hash.
CORN-BEEF CROQUETTES.
X% lbs. of mashed potatoes, 10 oz. of beef, chopped fine,
1 Y oz. of butter, 4 oz. of stale bread or cracker,
l/i gill of cream, I tablespoon of chopped parsley.
Pinch of grated nutmeg, Salt and pepper,
2 eggs, Cap of lard.
Pass the potato through a colander. When the beef is
chopped very fine, add the butter to the hot potato, then the
cream, 1 egg, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Beat thoroughly
together. Now mix the beef (without gristle) with the rest;
make it into rolls 1X2 inches long. (Be sure the surface
is smooth.) Place them on a floured tin and let them stand
in the ice-box while you beat the other egg and prepare the
bread- or cracker-crumbs, sifting the latter. Roll the cro-
quettes first in the egg, then in bread-crumbs, and let them
stand 1 or 2 hours, if you have time. Bring the lard to
a boil. It should be 2 inches deep in the pan. Lay the
croquettes in the frying-basket, and when you are sure the
lard is boiling, plunge them in. (See General Directions for
Frying.) Fry golden brown. Drain dry. Serve with
parsley and lemon, on a folded napkin. Excellent.



MUTTON AND LAMB.
GENERAL REMARKS ON MUTTON.
The great point of having mutton sufficiently mature
before cooking becomes quite a perplexing question in
summer, when the meat is liable to spoil before it has been
hung long enough to become tender. If you are in the
country, the following simple and most effective mode of
treatment may be possible for you to practise. It has been
followed, within my own experience, very frequently, and
with perfectly satisfactory results.
The day before you wish to use the piece of mutton, be it
leg or saddle, have a hole dug in the garden, wrap your
mutton in a clean, white cloth, lay it deep down in the hole,
cover the earth tightly over it and leave it until next morn-
ing. Then dig it out, set it in a cool place where it can not
spoil, and cook it for dinner. If a leg, it will be further
improved by being very thoroughly beaten with the rolling-
pin on all sides. It is quite remarkable how the burying
process will shorten the fibre of the meat and produce the
same results as are obtained by hanging for days at a cooler
season of the year.
NOTE.—Never attempt to keep mutton without cooking
after it has been beaten.
The directions given for the time in cooking mutton (see
Time-Table) are based upon the consideration that, being a
dark meat, it should always be served underdone. Those
who prefer it cooked brown all through should allow 1 2 or
116


ROAST LEG OF MUTTON.
117
15 minutes to the pound instead of 10 in roasting, also in
boiling and broiling.
ROAST LEG OF MUTTON.
GIGOT DE MOUTON ROTI.
Select a large leg of Canada mutton. Let it hang, accord-
ing to the weather, as long as it will keep sweet. In winter,
with care and favorable weather, it can sometimes hang 6
weeks and be all the better for it; of course the same is not
the case in summer (see General Remarks on Mutton). A
good leg should weigh at least 10 pounds cut close—that is,
without any of the loin attached. Having hung it as long as
possible, lay it on a board, and with the rolling-pin, beat the
entire leg all over until it feels very tender under pressure.
Let the blows be very heavy and do not spare them. This
is the French method, and when you have once tried it,
(especially upon a leg of whose tenderness you have enter-
tained doubts), you will be amazed that it is not made a
general practice. Have your oven very hot. Put the leg
into a baking-pan with the knuckle turned up a little;
skewer it in place if necessary. Rub it all over with flour;
introduce a clove of garlic into the hock-end near the bone,
if liked; put dots of drippings or butter on the top, and
a large lump in the pan. Put it into the oven for about 20
minutes, or until it begins to brown nicely; at the end
of this time, if the meat is sufficiently brown, turn off the
excessive heat, but do not cool the oven too much. If
in danger of browning too much, cover it with an inverted
pan. Baste very frequently. After the first half hour, you
may add a very little boiling water, not more than 1 gill, to
the pan. If it steams away, add again more, but very little
at a time. Allow 10 minutes per lb., which would make the
leg of 10 lbs. sufficiently cooked in 1 hour and 40 minutes.
It should be underdone when served. Remove the meat
from the pan to a hot dish; place the pan on the top of the
range; add a very little boiling water ; stir it around to detach


I18
GOOD-LIVING.
the particles and juices; skim and strain into a boat. Garnish
the dish with parsley, and put a frill of cut paper on the bone.
As an excellent addition to the above, peel and boil I
dozen small turnips until almost tender; cut them in halves
and lay them in the pan with the roasting mutton 30 or 40
minutes before this latter should be served. When you dish
the mutton, put a circle of these browned turn1ps around it,
and serve with the gravy as above. Avoid thickening the
gravies of roasted meats; this is a common and shocking
practice in our country. The ordinary cook thickens them
with a bitter preparation of burnt flour, which utterly de-
stroys the true flavor of the meat. There can be nothing
more wholesome or better, surely, than the juice of the meat
itself, especially that which runs from it in carving.
N. B.—Never pierce your roasted meat with a fork before
it is cut at the table. You can ascertain quite sufficiently by
pressure if the meat is cooked, without piercing it and thus
allowing it to bleed. If well cooked and handled, the juice
should almost spout from a leg of mutton, when carved, be
it roasted or boiled.
ROAST SADDLE OF MUTTON.
SELLE DE MOUTON R6TIE.
Having selected the saddle very carefully and hung or
buried it (see General Remarks on Mutton) until perfect,
wipe it clean; put it in a roasting-pan with 4 tablespo'onf uls
of boiling water. Dredge the top with flour, dot with sweet
drippings, and bake in a very quick oven, allowing about 9
minutes to the pound, as the saddle is considered properly
cooked only when very underdone. Baste frequently. Gar-
nish the tail with a frill of cut paper; put slices of lemon
and parsley around and serve very hot, with the pan-gravy
skimmed in the sauce-boat. Serve currant jelly at the same
time.
Note.—The plates on which the mutton is served should
be very hot.


BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON.
II9
ROAST LOIN OF MUTTON.
FILET DE MOUTON ROTI.
Follow exactly the directions for Roast Saddle of Mut-
ton, allowing 8 minutes to the pound for a small loin.
BOILED LEG OF MUTTON.
GIGOT DE MOUTON BOUILLI, SAUCE AUX CAPRES.
Have ready a clean cloth in which roll the leg of mutton
with the seasonings. Have a pot on the fire with boiling
water sufficient to cover the meat. Be sure the water is
boiling. . Put in the leg, and keep on a steady but gentle
boil until done, allowing 15 minutes to every pound of meat,
calculating from the time the water cemes again to a boil.
Do not let it "rack" at any time. When done, remove the
cloth and serve with Caper Sauce (see receipt), or with a
Puree of Turnips (see receipt).
N. B.—If the meat appears tough before cooking, beat it
smartly for a few minutes with a rolling-pin.
Having beaten it well, proceed as directed in receipt for
Plain Braise, if you wish to insure making a tough leg
good eating, and have it appear as though it had been
roasted; or, proceed as directed in receipt for Beef a la
Mode, omitting the larding; in this case the bone should
be removed and the space thus left filled with force-meat or
dressing. If the latter, serve with turnips peeled, parboiled,
and finished for at least 1 hour with the mutton; this is
highly recommended.
Leg of mutton,
Sprig of thyme,
1 bay-leaf,
Salt and pepper.
BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON.
GIGOT BRAISE AUX NAVETS.


120
GOOD-LIVING.
BREAST OF MUTTON A U GRA TIN.
POITRINE DE MOUTON AU GRATIN.
Breast of mutton,
I onion,
1 egg.
Pepper, salt,
Parsley and sweet herbs,
Bread-crumbs,
Butter,
Cayenne.
Boil the breast of mutton slowly until you can draw out
the bones easily. This will take 1£ to 2 hours, according
to the age of the mutton. Remove it from the fire; take
out all the bones, without breaking the meat in pieces. Lay
it between 2 dishes under a weight overnight. Next day,
stand it in the oven until warm; score the top and rub in a
mixture made of I egg, chopped parsley, grated onion, pow-
dered herbs, salt, pepper, and a pinch of cayenne. Over all,
sift fine bread-crumbs; put dots of butter over the crumbs
and set in the oven until well-browned, or from 20 to 30
minutes, if the oven is not too hot. Serve with Sauce
Poivrade (see receipt), or with Mushroom Sauce.
N. B.—If you will put 2 carrots, 1 turnip, 2 or 3 onions, all
cut in pieces, and other seasonings in the pot when you boil
the mutton first, you will have an excellent soup, if it is
allowed to boil down sufficiently. Add a little rice or barley
to the soup when you remove the mutton.
Use the breast chops for daintiness and appearance; or
the loin chops for sweetness and solidity; the former
"frenched," the latter trimmed neatly and the tails cut off.
The loin chops should be cut 1 inch thick; the French
chops rather thinner. Beat them with a few heavy, firm
strokes of the rolling-pin. Have the gridiron heated very
hot. Broil under a bright, clear fire. Grease the gridiron.
Lay the chops upon it, and in a few seconds turn them, that
they may become instantly seared and preserve their juices.
BROILED MUTTON CHOPS.
COTELETTES DE MOUTON GRILLEES.


BREADED MUTTON CHOPS.
121
Continue to turn frequently, never allowing one side to re-
main longer than the other exposed to the fire. This is the
secret of broiling well: a clear, scorching fire, and constant
attention, turning very frequently. As soon as the meat
feels at all firm under the pressure of the fork (do not pierce
it) the chops are cooked. Butter them thickly and sprinkle
with pepper and salt. If French chops, put frilled papers
on the handles and dish in a circle, one overlapping the
other, with a puree of some kind in the centre. Loin
chops are preferred for breakfast; the smaller French chops
for dinner.
MUTTON CUTLETS.
These are slices cut from the thick part of the leg, and
are most excellent. Beat as described above; remove the
outer skin and broil as directed for mutton chops. Serve
with a puree of spinach as a garnish. Lamb cutlets are also
excellent with fresh peas.
BREADED MUTTON CHOPS.
COTELETTES DE MOUTON PANEES.
For this purpose use only the rib-chops. Have them
"frenched "—that is, the handles cleaned and eyes trimmed.
Beat with a few vigorous strokes of the rolling-pin. Dip
them on all sides in melted butter. Sprinkle with pepper
and salt, and dip in fine bread-crumbs. Let them stand an
hour, if possible, in the ice-box to dry. Bring some lard to
a boil. It should be deep enough to cover the chops. Lay
them in and fry until golden brown and moderately firm
under pressure, turning once. They should require about 6
or 8 minutes to cook, being served underdone.
Or, sear the chops in a hot pan with a little butter—that is,
lay them first one side then the other for about two minutes
each; when cold, dip in egg, then in fine bread-crumbs, and
after letting them stand about I hour, fry them until golden
brown in boiling hot lard. Test the lard, and be certain it is


122
(foOD-LIVING.
hot enough, or the chops will be greasy and not a success.
Have ready frills for the handles; slip these on; dish in
a circle, overlapping each other; put fresh green peas in the
centre and parsley around. Serve.
Melt half of the butter in the frying-pan; when hot, sear
the chops quickly on both sides. Take them out. , Sprinkle
with salt and pepper. Put the remainder of the butter,
onion, and sausage into the pan. Stir for 15 minutes.
Remove from the fire, and stir in the yolk of egg and
parsley. Have ready 6 pieces of white paper, cut into the
shape of a heart, large enough to hold 1 chop each. Put 1
tablespoonful of the force-meat on one side of the paper; lay
the chop on this; lay another tablespoonful of the mixture
upon the chop, and fold the other half of the paper over this.
The edges should then be folded together neatly and tightly,
one over the other. Place them in a roasting-pan in the oven
for 15 minutes. Serve in the papers, with a Bechamel
Sauce (see receipt).
N. B.—The folding should be done very neatly and evenly;
the papillotes must all look exactly alike. Serve the sauce
in a boat.
Chops of any kind may be treated in the same way.
MUTTON CHOPS EN PAPILLOTE.
COTELETTES DE MOUTON EN PAPILLOTES.
Yz lb. sausage meat,
I onion, chopped,
6 loin chops,
Salt,
1 yolk of egg,
2 tablespoons of butter,
1 teaspoon of chopped parsley,
Pepper.
BROWNED MUTTON CURRY.
I pint of finely chopped cold mutton,
1 tablespoon of butter,
1 " "flour,
I ""curry-powder,
2 quarts of boiling water,
Salt to taste.
1 egg.
I gill of rice,
Wash the rice. Put it into the boiling water and boil for


BRAISED MUTTON CHOPS.
123
25 minutes. Drain in a colander. Put the butter into a
frying-pan with the flour; stir smooth, then add by degrees
2 gills of boiling water; stir smooth again. When boiling,
add the meat, curry, and salt. Stir for 10 minutes. Heap
the mixture in the centre of a fire-proof flat dish; make a
border of the rice around the meat, brush all over with
beaten egg, and place in the oven until browned, from 5 to
10 minutes.
If you have chops of whose tenderness you have doubts,
this receipt is most useful and excellent. Use breast chops.
They should be " frenched,"as the butchers say—that is, the
bone stripped clean. Pound the chops with a heavy knife
on both sides. Have the vegetables ready, fried in butter
till slightly brown, and then simmered until half done with
a few tablespoonfuls of boiling water added to the pan,
about 15 minutes. .Take a saucepan (or bake pan is better)
which you can cover air-tight. Lay the vegetables in the
bottom. Sear the chops in the hot frying-pan only just long
enough to slightly brown one side, then the other. Lay
them on the bed of vegetables, and add just enough broth
to cover them. Put the pan 1n the oven, tightly covered,
for 30 minutes. Dish them in the centre of the dish in
a circle with the vegetables around. Put the pan on the
top of the range; boil down the gravy rapidly for a few mo-
ments; strain it over the chops, and serve. If desired, the
sauce may be thickened with a pinch of corn-starch, blended
with a few drops of cold water. Boil 3 minutes, stirring
constantly, and strain as above. Recommended.
BRAISED MUTTON CHOPS.
COTELETTES DE MOUTON A LA JARDINIERE.
8 mutton chops,
Butter, broth,
Pepper,
Salt,
1 turnip, cut fine,
1 onion or leek, cut fine,
1 stick of celery,""
1 carrot, cut fine.


124
GOOD-LIVING.
MUTTON CROQUETTES.
CROQUETTES DE MOUTON.
Proceed exactly as for Corn-beef Croquettes (see receipt).
Or, as follows:
2 gills of mutton, chopped fine, 2 tablespoons of flour,
2 " of macaroni, chopped, I tablespoon of butter,
2 " of boiling milk, Curry-powder to taste,
Salt and pepper, I tablespoon of chopped parsley.
Make a sauce of the boiling milk, blended with the flour
and butter. Stir, and let it boil until very thick. Add the
curry, rubbed smooth. Have ready the mutton, etc. Do
not chop the macaroni too fine. Mix all together, seasoning
to taste. Set away to cool. Then roll as directed for
Chicken Croquettes (see receipt), and fry in boiling lard
(see General Directions for Frying). Rice may be substi-
tuted for macaroni, if preferred. Excellent.
CURRIED MUTTON.
MOUTON AU KARI.
Boil a shoulder of mutton whole until tender, adding
to the water various seasonings, carrot, onion, etc. When
perfectly tender (the length of cooking being dependent
upon the age of the mutton), cut it into 2-inch dice. Rub
together 2 tablespoonfuls each of flour and butter; add to
these I pint of the boiling broth in which the mutton was
cooked. Stir. Boil 2 minutes. Add about I teaspoonful
of curry-powder rubbed smooth with a little of the sauce,
salt, and pepper. Put the meat into the sauce and simmer
gently 15 minutes. Make a Rice Border (see receipt); dish
the mutton curry in the centre; sprinkle chopped parsley
over the top, and serve. A little lemon-juice may be added
to the sauce, if liked. (Mashed potato may be substituted
for the rice.) Excellent. The broth in which the mutton
has boiled will make good soup, with the addition of a little
rice or barley.


TURCSICUS (OLD-FASHIONED RECEIPT). I 25
IRISH STEW.
HARICOT DE MOUTON.
2 lbs. of shoulder or scrag of mutton,
2 "of potatoes, cut in quarters,
2 sticks of celery or fresh celery leaves,
Bunch of parsley,
Salt,
\yi pints of cold water,
2 sliced onions,
2 '' carrots,
2 " turnips,
Pepper.
Choose by preference the shoulder, which you can cut in
pieces 3 inches square, being careful that the butcher does
not splinter the bones. The next best is the " rack," with the
meat cut in pieces at the joints. Put all together into an iron
pot and stew very gently for about 2 hours. The really well-
made Irish Stew is excellent, and for this the potatoes must
be cooked until they begin to dissolve and thicken the gravy.
When done, dish it very carefully, as otherwise its appear-
ance is unappetizing. Put the meat in the centre, the thick
part of the vegetables around, and the sauce over all. If
desired, Dumplings may be made (see receipts) and added to
the boiling gravy when the meat has been removed. Cover
and boil 12 minutes. Be careful that the gravy does not
scorch, as it does easily under these circumstances.
TURCSICUS (OLD-FASHIONED RECEIPT).
Parboil the mutton before mincing it, and save the broth.
Wash the rice and soak it a few minutes. Put it into a
saucepan with 3 quarts of boiling water; boil 15 minutes,
until the rice is rather tender but not quite cooked; drain it
perfectly dry and set it away to cool. When the mutton is
chopped very fine, mix it with about an equal bulk of the
rice; season with salt and pepper and add the butter. Mix.
Separate the leaves of a white cabbage; put some of the
minced meat into each leaf; tie it in shape like an apple-
2 quarts of minced lean mutton,
3 " of boiling water,
White cabbage leaves,
Water in which the mutton was boiled,
1 cup of rice,
% lb. of butter,
Salt and pepper to taste.


126
GOOD-LIVING.
dumpling, folding the leaf so that the stuffing will not come
out. Tie it securely. Bring the mutton-broth to a boil.
Tie the "Turcsicus Dumplings" in a piece of cheese-cloth
or muslin, and boil gently for 30 minutes. Handle very
carefully when removing from the fire. Untie the cloth,
remove the tapes or strings, and serve with melted butter
in the sauce-boat. The receipt adds " eat and be thankful."
MUTTON AND MACARONI BROWNED.
MOUTON AU MACARONI.
2 oz. of macaroni, 1 gill of milk,
^ lb. of cold mutton, 1 teaspoon of curry-powder,
oz. of butter, Salt to taste,
2 eggs.
Boil the macaroni in salted boiling water until just tender
(about 20 minutes). Drain and set away to cool. Chop the
cold meat; mix with it 1 ounce of butter, the curry, salt, 1
beaten egg, and the milk. Cut the macaroni into £-inch bits
and mix lightly with the mutton. Butter a pie-plate or sheet
of tin and form the mixture into a neat, oval mass in the
centre; spread £ an ounce of butter over it and put it into
the oven. When heated, cover it with a beaten egg seasoned
with a pinch of salt and 2 of curry. Scatter crumbs over the
top and set it in the oven till brown, 5 to 10 minutes. Re-
move carefully to a dish; garnish with parsley. Serve.
This dish may be more highly seasoned if liked.
MUTTON ROLL.
Proceed exactly as for Beef Roll (see receipt). Serve with
Brown Sauce. Recommended.
SHEPHERDS PIE.
I lb. of cold mutton, Salt,
I large teaspoon of butter, Pepper,
I gill of stock or water, - 1 pint of cold boiled potatoes.
Cut the mutton and potatoes into 1-inch dice; put them


KIDNEYS BREADED.
127
into a deep dish; add the stock, pepper, salt, and the butter
cut into bits.
CRUST.
4 medium-sized potatoes, ^ cup of cream,
I large teaspoon of butter, Salt,
Flour. Pepper.
Pare and boil the potatoes; mash them and add the cream,
butter, salt, and pepper, and beat very light. Now add
enough flour to make a soft dough, about 1 cupful. Roll it
into a thick sheet. With this cover the top of the dish of
meat; make an x hole in the centre for the steam to escape;
bake in a moderate oven for 1 hour and serve in the dish in
which it was baked. Boiled rice may be substituted for
mashed potato, using the same quantity. The addition to
the pie of \ an onion grated is a further improvement.
SHEEPS KIDNEYS EN BROCHETTE.
ROGNONS EN BROCHETTE.
6 kidneys, lb. of bacon, sliced thin,
1 tablespoon of butter.
Cut each kidney through the centre, removing veins and
muscle; wash in cold water. Cover with boiling water; let
stand 5 minutes; then wipe dry. Take a plated or silver
skewer if you have it, otherwise an ordinary one. Run a
slice of bacon on this, then a kidney, and so on until the
skewer is filled. Place on a hot broiler for 5 minutes over a
very hot fire, basting with melted butter. Sprinkle with salt
and pepper and serve on the skewer for breakfast. Chopped
parsley and lemon-juice may be added.
KIDNEYS BREADED.
ROGNONS DE MOUTON PANES.
Bread the kidney, and broil as above.


128
GOOD-LIVING.
ROAST LAMB AND MINT SAUCE.
QUARTIER D'AGNEAU ROTI, SAUCE MENTHE.
Select a fresh and white hindquarter of lamb. Wipe it
off and roast it exactly as directed for Roast Leg of Mutton,
allowing about 18 minutes to the pound. Serve with a cold
Mint Sauce (see receipt).
BROILED LAMB CHOPS.
COTELETTES D'AGNEAU GRILLEES.
See Broiled Mutton Chops, cooking until nearly firm under
pressure.
CURRIED LAMB.
See Curried Mutton.
BRAISED BREAST OF LAMB.
POITRINE D'AGNEAU BRAISEE.
Shoulder and breast of lamb, boned, I carrot, cut fine,
Parsley, I turnip, ""
Bread-crumbs, I onion, cut fine,
Butter, I onion, grated,
}i can of tomatoes, I clove of garlic,
Pepper, salt, Thyme, and spices to taste.
Have the butcher remove all the bones from the lamb.
Lay it on a board; wipe it carefully with a damp cloth.
Have ready plenty of soft tape or strips of muslin. Prepare
a dressing of dried bread-crumbs fried in butter, adding
grated onion, parsley, thyme, and spices to taste. Put the
dressing into the open side of the breast of lamb; roll up
neatly and tie with the tape, securing the ends well, that the
dressing may not fall out in the cooking. Fry the vegetables
in butter. Heat an iron pot very hot; put into it a table-
spoonful of sweet drippings or butter; when very hot, put
in the roll and brown it on all sides lightly. Add the fried
vegetables and only just enough boiling water or broth to


STEWED LAMBS' TONGUES.
I29
half-cover the meat; add the tomatoes; stew gently from 2
to 3 hours or more, according to the size of the roll. Dish
with the vegetables around. The sauce may be boiled down
rapidly for a few minutes and thickened with a pinch of corn-
starch blended with cold water, or with a little Brown Roux
(see receipt). Stir, boil 3 minutes, strain, and serve in a
sauce-boat; or, if preferred, the gravy may be served without
being strained.
EPIGRAM OF LAMB, SAUCE TARTARE.
EPIGRAMME D'AGNEAU, SAUCE TARTARE.
Prepare the lamb according to receipt for Breast of Mutton
au Gratin up to the point of putting it away to cool between
2 dishes. Place a weight upon the top dish. Next day cut
into strips I2-X3 inches and f of an inch thick. Dip in
egg and bread-crumbs, and fry in boiling lard (see General
Directions for Frying). When golden-brown, drain' on a
paper in the mouth of the oven for a few moments, then
dish in a circle. Garnish tastefully, and serve with Tartare
Sauce (see receipt) and green peas. The true Epigramme
d'Agneau is composed of the above alternated with lamb
chops dipped and fried in the same manner. The above will
be found excellent, however, without the addition of the
chops.
STEWED LAMBS' TONGUES.
LANGUES D'AGNEAUX.
6 tongues, 3 tablespoons of butter,
1 large onion, cut fine, 3 " "flour,
2 slices of carrot, cut fine, I bay-leaf,
3 " "turnip, "" Salt and pepper,
1 pint of stock or water, Bunch of sweet herbs and celery.
Boil the tongues in clear water for \ hours. Throw them
into cold water. Remove the skins. Put the vegetables
into a saucepan with the butter. Add flour and stir until
brown, then add stock or water to cover, and seasonings.
9


13d
GOOD-LIVING.
When the tongues are skinned, add them to the rest, and
simmer very gently for 2 hours. Have ready carrots and
turnips cut in neat shapes, and boiled apart. Put the tongues
on a hot dish: strain the gravy; boil it down briskly for a
few minutes and pour over the tongues: garnish with the
boiled vegetables and serve.
LAMBS' TONGUES WITH TOMATO SAUCE.
LANGUES D'AGNEAUX, SAUCE TOMATE-.
Cook as above, omitting the boiled vegetables, serving
instead a rich Tomato Sauce (see receipt).
LAMBS' TONGUES A LA TARTARE.
LANGUES D'AGNEAUX A LA TARTARE.
Stew the tongues as directed, and serve with Tartare
Sauce (see receipt).
DEVILLED LAMB EN CAISSES.
AGNEAU EN CAISSES.
See receipt for Devilled Chicken en Caisses.
LAMBS' KIDNEYS FOR BREAKFAST.
ROGNONS D'AGNEAU.
Prepare exactly as directed for Fourchette, splitting the
kidneys in half.
LAMBS' KIDNEYS BROILED.
ROGNONS D'AGNEAU GRILLES.
Split the kidneys; remove the little white centre. Do not
cut the two sides apart, but spread them open, running a
skewer through to hold them in place. Fill the skewers
with as many kidneys as they will hold. Have the broiler
or gridiron very hot, and lay the skewered kidneys upon it,


LAMBS' FRIES.
turning frequently. Dip in melted butter and broil until
firm under pressure. If you use plated or silver skewers, lay
the whole on a hot dish; add lemon-juice, chopped parsley,
pepper and salt and melted butter, and serve. If common
skewers are used, the kidneys must be slipped off before
dressing as directed. N. B.—Serve very hot.
LAMB CROQUETTES.
CROQUETTES D'AGNEAU.
Proceed exactly as for any of the various receipts for
Chicken Croquettes.
LAMBS' FRIES.
Parboil these as described for Calf's Brains. Then prepare
according to any of the various receipts for Calf's Brains or
Sweetbreads; or fry in butter.



VEAL.
GENERAL REMARKS.
The best veal is very firm and pinkish white ("ashes of
roses" describes the color exactly, if not too poetical for
such a prosaic subject). Never buy that which has a bluish
tinge. It should not be too young (less than 6 weeks) nor
too old (over 6 months). The best season is from the
middle of April until the first of July; but it continues to
be quite good until the end of October. From that to April
1st it is not very good, being particularly stringy. Like all
young meats, it spoils very quickly, and in summer must
not be kept any longer than necessity demands, and not
more than 2 or 3 days in cooler weather. In this country
the utility of veal is not sufficiently recognized; as a rule it
is shockingly cooked, therefore indigestible; hence its bad
reputation. Whereas in reality it is no more indigestible
than other young meats and far less so than pork, which,
though not young meat, is also white. Young meats as a
rule are not nutritious, but, if properly cooked, need not be
particularly unwholesome; lamb might be disapproved of on
the same grounds, and yet it is very popular. If veal is
sufficiently cooked, and cooked slowly, it will be found to be
quite as safe for the average person as lamb. A very great
improvement, and a practice to be strongly recommended,
is to pound veal, not as you would pound beef, but almost
to a pulp; this makes it deliciously tender and quite digest-
ible. It is indeed a most useful meat, furnishing an endless
variety of dishes.
13a


STUFFED FILLET OF VEAL ROASTED. {33
ROAST LOIN OF VEAL.
LONGE DE VEAU ROTIE.
Trim the loin neatly; turn the flap under and fasten with
a skewer. Proceed exactly as directed for Fillet of Veal
Roasted, omitting the stuffing. Cover with a second pan
and allow 20 minutes per pound in a slow oven.
STUFFED FILLET OF VEAL ROASTED.
ROUELLE DE VEAU FARCIE.
Remove the bone from the fillet of veal. Fill the space
with a Force-Meat or Dressing, (see receipts). An excellent
dressing is made of equal quantities of stale bread-crumbs and
chopped ham, chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of made
mustard, and 1 egg. When the dressing is ready, fill the
space left by the bone; then skewer the fillet and tie it with
tape or strips of muslin into a neat round. Sprinkle with
pepper and salt. Tie a buttered paper over the top. Put
it into a baking-pan with a little sweet drippings or butter
and very little boiling water. Let the fire be intensely hot
at first; then after 20 to 30 minutes slack it off to a very
moderate heat. Baste very often. Just before it is done,
remove the paper, dredge with flour; dot with butter, and let
it brown. Allow about 18 minutes to the pound. If covered
with thick paper or with another pan, and the fire is kept
sufficiently moderate, you may allow 20 minutes to the
pound, as veal must be very thoroughly done through. Add
a little boiling water from time to time if necessary, but always
very little at a time. When done, remove from the pan;
set the pan on top of the range; add lemon-juice, pepper,
salt, and, if necessary, some boiling water. Boil it down
briskly; skim; strain some over the veal, and serve the rest
in a sauce-boat.


134
GOOD-LIVING.
BRAISED FILLET OF VEAL.
ROUELLE DE VEAU BRAISEE.
Remove all the fibres and skin from the fillet; lard the
upper side with fine strips of salt pork (see Roasted Filet
of Beef Larded). The space left by removing the bone
should be filled with force-meat as for Stuffed Fillet of
Veal Roasted. Skewer it neatly into shape and tie it with
tape or strips of muslin. Melt a large piece of butter in a
stew-pan. Lay the veal in, turning it on all sides to brown
evenly. When this is done, stand the larded side uppermost.
Add 2£ gills of good stock, 2 gills of tomato-juice or tomato
sauce, and I gill of sherry, salt and pepper. Cover and
simmer gently, allowing about 20 minutes to the pound.
When done, uncover and set the pan in the oven for about
30 minutes to brown the meat, basting often to give a good
color. Allow plenty of time; cook gently, and the veal
will be tender and perfectly digestible. Rapid and insuffi-
cient cooking spoil veal and render it unwholesome. When
cooked, dish. Strain and skim the gravy and serve in a
boat.
BRAISED FILLET OF VEAL WITH SOUBISE
SA UCE.
ROUELLE DE VEAU BRAISEE, SAUCE SOUBISE.
Having braised the fillet as directed, serve it with Soubise
Sauce (see receipt), adding to the sauce the pan gravy.
Good.
FRICANDEA U OF VEAL.
FRICANDEAU DE VEAU.
The cut for this dish is taken from the thick side of the
fillet, cut up and down, not across, including the round eye
which forms the tenderest as well as the thickest part of the
leg. This is the true fricandeau. Remove all skin and


FRlCANDEAU A LA SOUBISE.
fibre, then with the rolling-pin pound the meat until almost
as tender as pulp. Having done this well, form the meat
into a neat round, loaf-like shape. Lard the side that is to
stand uppermost (see Roasted Filet of Beef Larded). It
will be found to be much more convenient to place the frican-
deau on a perforated pie-dish which will fit into the braising-
pot, as handling will deface it after its thorough pounding.
When larded and ready, place the meat and pie-plate in the
pot. Fry 1 onion and I carrot in butter; add these to the
pot with I bay-leaf, sprig of thyme, I clove, and a roux made
of I tablespoonful of flour, stirred over the fire with 1 table-
spoonful of butter until of a rich chestnut-brown. Blend
this with just enough boiling water to make it smooth. Now
add 3 gills of strong stock and I gill of sherry. Cover very
closely and set over a sharp fire until it boils; then draw aside
where it will simmer gently without intermission. Allow
about 20 minutes to the pound, if cooked slowly enough.
The pot must be air-tight. About 30 minutes before it is to
be served, uncover the pot, set it in the oven, and baste
frequently until there forms a rich glaze over the top. This
also improves the appearance of the larding. When ready,
remove to a hot dish. Add a little broth to the pot; stir
and boil down rapidly for a few minutes. Strain and skim
the gravy and serve it in a sauce-boat. Delicious.
FRICANDEA U OF VEAL WITH SORREL.
FRICANDEAU DE VEAU A L'OSEILLE.
Having prepared the fricandeau, serve it on a Puree of
Sorrel (see receipt). This is the conventional accompani-
ment.
FRICANDEAU A LA SOUBISE.
Having prepared the fricandeau as directed, serve it with
a rich Soubise Sauce (see receipt), adding to the latter the
juices of the meat.


136
GOOD-LIVING.
BROWNED KNUCKLE OF VEAL.
JARRET DE VEAU PANE.
Remove the lower bone from a boiled knuckle of veal;
lap the meat over neatly and skewer it. Beat the yolks of
two raw eggs with half a teaspoonful of salt and a pinch of
pepper ; cover the meat with this ; sprinkle with bread-crumbs
and brown it in the oven.
SAUCE:
I oz. of butter, Rind of half a lemon and juice of same,
I oz. of flour, teaspoon of ground allspice,
1 pint of broth, Salt and cayenne.
Brown the butter and flour together to a good color; do
not burn. Pour in the boiling broth by degrees, stirring all
the time. Add seasonings and boil 5 minutes or more, if not
thick enough. Strain and serve in a sauce-boat with the veal.
This is an economical dish, and very nice-looking as well as
palatable. The veal must have boiled very slowly until very
tender. The broth in which it was boiled will make a good
soup. See receipts for White Soup, etc., etc.
VEAL CUTLETS FRIED.
NOIX DE VEAU PANEES.
Veal cutlet, Bread-crumbs,
Salt and pepper, Grated nutmeg,
Lemon-juice, Egg and lard.
With a knife remove the outer skin, all the sinews and
fibres which you can manage to draw out of the cutlet. Cut
it into pieces 3X3 inches. Beat the pieces to a pulp, lit-
erally. Squeeze lemon-juice over them. Season the bread-
crumbs with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Dip the cutlets into
the egg, then shape them nicely into neat, even pieces, and
dip them into the bread-crumbs, being careful that every part
is covered. Set away on a dish for an hour or more if you
have the time. Have ready boiling lard 2 inches deep.
When ready, put the cutlets in a frying-basket; plunge them
into the lard and fry golden brown. (See General Direc-


VEAL CUTLETS BRAISED.
137
tions for Frying.) They will require about 12 to 15 minutes,
and must cook a little more slowly after the first minute or
two, drawing the frying-pan on one side. When gold color,
remove them from the lard; drain them on paper in the
open mouth of the oven. When free from grease, dish
neatly on a very hot dish and serve with Tomato Sauce,
Brown Sauce, or Sauce Piquante, (see receipts). Done in
this way, veal cutlets are almost as good as croquettes and
quite as digestible.
Fry the sliced pork until the fat is melted out sufficiently;
sprinkle the veal, cut in pieces 3X3 inches, with salt and
pepper; lay it in the hot pan, turn quickly and sear both
sides; then draw it to the side of the range and let it cook
slowly. It is done when it feels firm under the fork. It
must be turned very often while cooking, that it may not
harden on any one side. When done, lay the slices of veal
in a circle on a hot dish alternately with the slices of pork.
Pour nearly all the fat from the pan; add to the pan the
cream, in a little of which the flour has been mixed smooth.
Simmer 3 minutes after it begins to boil. Pour it over the
veal and serve.
Cut slices of the fillet into pieces about 3 inches square.
Pound with a rolling-pin almost to a pulp and press back into
FRIED VEAL A LA MARYLAND.
NOIX DE VEAU SAUTEES A LA MARYLAND.
l}( lbs. sliced veal cutlet, pounded,
1 even tablespoon of flour,
3 oz. of salt pork, sliced,
2 gills of cream,
Salt,
Pepper.
VEAL CUTLETS BRAISED.


138
GOOD-LIVING.
shape. Lard the cutlets (this is not obligatory). Having
cut up the vegetables, fry them in butter until slightly brown.
Lay them in a saucepan ; on this bed lay the cutlets. Cover
with good, strong stock. Add pepper and salt. Cover the
saucepan air-tight and stew very gently for about \ hours.
When thoroughly cooked, remove the meat. Thicken the
gravy with a roux made of flour and butter browned
together over the fire, blending the boiling sauce into it
until smooth. Boil this 5 minutes; add wine to taste.
Strain. Dish the cutlets in a circle with the mixed vegeta-
bles in the centre ; or substitute a puree of some sort, peas,
spinach, endives, sorrel, etc., etc. Serve the gravy on the
dish.
VEAL CUTLETS SAUTE.
NOIX DE VEAU SAUTEES.
Use for this the eyes of the rib-chops cut away from the
bones, or slices from the fillet, cut in pieces about 3x3
inches. Pound these with a rolling-pin until almost a pulp.
Press them back into shape. Have the frying-pan heating
on the fire. Lay in some slices of ham cut the same size as
the veal. Let them fry a few minutes. Take them out and
place on a warm dish. If there is not enough fat in the pan
from the ham, add a lump of butter, and when bubbling, lay
in the veal. Turn the pieces constantly and faithfully.
When firm under the fork, they are done. Dish them in a
circle alternately with the pieces of ham. Add to the pan a
little lemon-juice, a pinch of flour, pepper and salt, and a
little boiling water. Stir and boil. Add chopped parsley,
pour over the cutlets, and serve.
The same may be served with Mushroom Sauce, Tomato
Sauce, Soubise Sauce, Sauce Piquante, or Cream Sauce (see
receipts); or with a puree of peas, spinach, sorrel, etc., etc.
VEAL POT-PIE.
See receipt for Beefsteak Pudding or Pot-Pie, using 3
parts veal to 1 part ham.


VEAL CHOPS A LA MILANAISE. 139
VEAL CROQUETTES.
CROQUETTES DE VEAU.
Prepare according to any of the various receipts for
Chicken Croquettes.
VEAL AND HAM CROQUETTES.
Prepare according to any of the various receipts for
Chicken Croquettes, using 3 parts veal to 1 part ham.
VEAL CHOPS SA UTE".
COTELETTES DE VEAU SAUTEES.
Chops, Parsley,
Lemon-juice, Flour,
Pepper and salt, Butter.
Pound and trim the chops neatly; scrape the handles.
Heat a large lump of butter in the frying-pan. Lay in the
chops side by side, so that each touches the bottom of the
pan. As soon as all are in, begin to turn, and keep on turn-
ing until done, which can be proved by their being firm
under pressure of a fork. Do not pierce them. Remove
them to a hot dish; dredge a little flour into the butter
which remains in the pan; stir; add lemon-juice, chopped
parsley, pepper and salt, and a little fresh butter. Pour
over the chops, and serve. The above can be served with
Tomato Sauce, Soubise Sauce, Mushroom Sauce, etc. (see
various receipts), or with a puree of peas, potatoes, sorrel,
spinach, endives, etc., etc.
VEAL CHOPS A LA MILANAISE.
C6TELETTES DE VEAU A LA MILANAISE.
Having dressed the chops as above, and browned them in
butter as directed, add a little broth, and stew gently for 15
minutes. Dish in a circle. Fill the centre space with boiled
macaroni, and pour the gravy over all. The addition to the


140
GOOD-LIVING.
gravy of 2 gills of rich Tomato Sauce and I gill of sherry
will be found a great improvement; it may be slightly
thickened with corn-starch, blended with a little cold water,
and boiled 3 minutes.
STUFFED FLANK OF VEAL (COLD).
GALANTINE DE VEAU.
Flank of veal, , Sausage-meat,
Spread out the flank, which you have had prepared and
boned by the butcher. To be large enough, part of the
breast has also to be included in cutting the flank, therefore
the little flat bones and gristle must all be removed, as also
all the sinews and fibres of the meat. Trim it evenly.
Make a thick force-meat of sausage, half the bulk of same in
bread-crumbs; season to taste with pounded garlic (1 clove
of garlic or half teaspoonful of grated onion); salt and pep-
per. A gill of wine or brandy will be found a great improve-
ment. Add 1 or 2 eggs, according to the amount of
force-meat required; add dice of boiled tongue. Have
ready a pot of boiling water, with 1 bay-leaf, sprig of thyme,
and salt. When you have put the force-meat in the centre
of the flank, roll it up very carefully, not to let the dressing
escape at the ends. Tie it securely with strips of muslin or
tape. Drop into the pot of boiling water, and boil hard for 1 5
minutes, covered; then set to one side, and boil more gently
for 45 minutes, or longer if the meat is thick. When done,
set the pot aside until all is cold before removing the roll.
This is excellent sliced thin for luncheon, and keeps several
days.
There are two ways of preparing this dish, one simple, the
other more complex: both are given. It is unnecessary to
Bread-crumbs,
Dice of tongue,
Bay-leaf,
Egg,
Garlic,
Thyme, pepper, and salt.
BLANQUETTE OF VEAL.
BLANQUETTE DE VEAU.


CREAM OF VEAL.
141
say that the more elaborate is the better of the two; but the
simple one is excellent.
Cut a breast of veal (the thin, gristly part also) into pieces
2x3 inches. Lay them in a bowl of vinegar and water for
about 1 hour. This will draw out the blood. Then proceed
exactly as for Fricasseed Chicken (see receipt). When
cooked very tender (it must only simmer), about 1 hour and
30 minutes, more or less, remove the veal. Strain the gravy;
make a White Roux as directed (see receipt); stir in the boil-
ing broth; when thickened to the proper consistency, add
lemon-juice, nutmeg, salt, and a dash of cayenne. Put the
veal into the sauce; set it over boiling water, and let it stew
very gently for about 30 minutes at the back of the range.
Dish the meat neatly. Bring the sauce to a boil. Have
ready in a bowl 2 yolks of eggs (to a pint of sauce), beaten
with a gill of cream. Pcur some of the sauce very gently
upon them. Remove the sauce from the fire; stir the eggs
thus prepared into the boiling sauce; pour the whole over
the blanquette; garnish with large croutons, sliced lemon,
and parsley. Serve. Excellent.
Or, slice some cold roast fillet of veal, about a third of an
inch thick, in even neat pieces, cutting off all the outer
brown skin. Prepare a Sauce Blonde or Veloute. When it
is hot, lay in the veal; set over boiling water for 30 minutes,
where it will barely simmer. Season with lemon-juice, nut-
meg, and a dash of cayenne. Garnish as above, and serve.
Very good, and much less trouble than the first receipt.
CREAM OF VEAL.
creme de veau.
Make 2 gills of Cream Sauce (see receipt). Chop 3 parts
veal and 1 part ham, very fine; stir in enough to thicken the
sauce, so that it will no longer pour. Season the veal with
a dash of nutmeg and cayenne. Serve on toast. Chicken
may be prepared in the same way; also mutton, to which
should be added a pinch of curry-powder.


142
GOOD-LIVING.
CREOLE RATATOUILLE.
RATATOUILLE À LA CRÉOLE.
3 pounds of lean veal,
2 cloves of garlic,
1 pound ham, cut in 1-in. dice, 2 onions, sliced,
Sprig of thyme,
Veal bones for gravy,
I can of tomatoes, or 6 or 8 fresh, 4 or 6 sweet potatoes,
I can of okra, or 50 fresh,
Salt, pepper, and cayenne.
First of all make your gravy as follows: Brown the bones
and trimmings of the veal, and any chicken bones which you
may have, in butter in a frying-pan; or you may roast them
till brown in the oven. When well browned, put them in a
saucepan on the fire with the garlic, thyme, tomatoes, and a
little dash of boiling water (according to the amount of
liquor there is on the tomatoes). As you will require about
I quart of gravy, it is best to begin with 3 pints of liquid.
Fry the onions brown in butter, and add them to the sauce-
pan. Cover. Let the whole stew very gently on the side
of the range for 2 hours, or longer, until the gravy is tasty
and strong. Then strain it and return it to the saucepan.
Have your veal cut in pieces about the length of 1 finger and
breadth of 2. Fry the pieces in butter until nicely browned,
turning often to avoid toughening; put these in the sauce-
pan; add the dice of ham, the sweet potatoes cut in cubes
of about if inches, salt, and pepper. Add also, if avail-
able, half a sweet-pepper without seeds. Stew all together
gently until the veal is thoroughly tender and the sweet
potatoes are on the point of melting away, which will be
from 14 to 2 hours. Ten minutes before this point is reached,
add the can of okra. If you use fresh okras, select small
ones, tip and tail them, and add to the stew 30 minutes be-
fore removing from the fire. When it is all done, dish the
meat in the centre of a platter, the sweet potatoes around
the edge, the okra over the meat. Let the gravy boil down
rapidly for a few minutes; add salt and cayenne to taste; if
not thick enough, stir in i teaspoonful of corn-starch dissolved
in a little cold water. Boil 3 minutes and pour over the
stew. This is a delicious dish, and perfectly easy to make,
although it may appear complicated.


VEAL LOAF.
:43
VEAL OLIVES.
VEAU AUX OLIVES.
Strips of veal from the flank,
Small piece of cold veal, chopped,
Cold ham, chopped,
Bread-crumbs,
Parsley, chopped,
Grated onion,
1 egg,
Pepper and salt
Lemon-juice,
Nutmeg,
Butter,
Spanish olives, stoned.
Having removed the skin and fibres from the flank of veal
and wiped it clean, cut it in neat strips about 2 inches wide
by 4 inches long. Pound carefully with a few strokes. Mix
together all the other ingredients, except the olives and
butter, using cold ham and cold veal in equal proportions
and bread-crumbs equal to the bulk of these two. Put a
layer of dressing in the centre of each strip of veal, roll
neatly, and tie so that the mince will not run out. The ends
can be pinned over with small wooden skewers, in which
case be very careful to remove them before serving. Melt a
tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan. When it bubbles,
lay in the rolls and turn them until evenly browned all over.
Add enough stock to half-cover them ; close tightly, and set
on a corner of the range to simmer gently for 30 to 40
minutes. Then remove them to a hot dish; bring the gravy,
strained, to a boii; thicken it with corn-starch blended with
cold water. Stir and boil 3 minutes. Add a few stoned
olives, pepper, and salt. Pour over the rolls and serve.
This is a very old-fashioned dish.
VEAL LOAF.
PAIN DE VEAU.
2 pounds of cold veal, chopped fine, 1 cup of brown gravy,
I pound of cold ham, " "
Cayenne,
I small teaspoon of grated lemon-peel, Lemon-juice,
1 teaspoon of powdered mace,
Salt and pepper,
1 tablespoon of chopped parsley, 3 yolks of eggs, beaten light,
I cup grated bread-crumbs, dry and fine, 1 egg for glazing.
Mix half of the gravy and all the other ingredients, except
the egg for glazing. Add the yolks of the eggs last. The


144
GOOD-LIVING.
mixture should be just firm enough to hold in shape when,
moulded into a loaf. If it is too soft, add bread-crumbs.
Flour your hands and mould it into a loaf rather more than
twice its breadth in length. If longer, it will crack in dishing.
Flour the outside well, and place it in a greased pan large
enough to permit of your handling the loaf without danger
of disfiguring it. Cover over and set in the oven until
smoking hot. Remove the cover and allow it to brown
quickly. Draw it to the oven-door and brush over with
beaten egg. Shut the door and leave for 3 minutes, or until
nicely brown. It will require in all about 1 hour in a mod-
erate oven. If cooked in too hot an oven, the loaf will
crack. When done, transfer it by means of a cake-turner to
a hot dish. Handle it very carefully. Serve it with the
remaining half-cup of brown gravy, or with Tomato Sauce,
or Mushroom Sauce (see receipts). It is delicious served
cold with salad.
DEVILLED VEAL EN CAISSES.
VEAU EN CAISSES.
See receipt for Devilled Chicken en Caisses.
MEA T LOAF.
PAIN DE VIANDE.
3 pounds of minced veal, 8 eggs,
3" "beef, Pepper and salt,
3 stale rolls, grated, 2 grated nutmegs,
1 teaspoon of ground cinnamon.
Mix all together with the raw meat minced. If you have
no rolls, use the same bulk of stale bread. When well
mixed, form into a loaf, sprinkle with bread-crumbs, put in a
roasting-pan or on a sheet of tin. Cover and bake in a very
moderate oven for about 2 hours, or a little longer. Serve
cold. (Or, bake the same in a well-greased bread-pan.)


JELLIED VEAL.
BEWITCHED VEAL.
J lbs. of lean veal,
I grated nutmeg,
I small onion, grated,
3 eggs,
yi pound fat salt pork,
I tablespoon of butter,
Salt and cayenne,
I cup of milk.
Chop all very fine; mix the raw meat with the eggs and
milk; add the other ingredients; form into a compact loaf.
Sprinkle with bread-crumbs. Bake from 1j to 2 hours in a
moderate oven; if too quick, the loaf will crack. Cover
while baking. This is best served cold with salad. (Or,
bake the same in a well-greased bread-pan.)
Wipe the veal; cut it into pieces; put it into a kettle with
the cold water; bring it slowly to a boil; skim and simmer
gently for 2 hours. Add onions, bay-leaf, cloves, pepper-
corns, and allspice. Simmer 1 hour longer. Remove the
meat from the bones and put the former into a plain mould.
Boil the liquor down to I quart; strain; add vinegar, pepper
and salt. Pour it over the meat, and set away overnight.
When firm, turn it out and garnish with parsley and lemon.
JELLIED VEAL.
VEAU EN GELEE.
1 gill of good vinegar,
2 quarts of cold water,
Salt and pepper,
I knuckle of veal,
I blade of mace,
2 onions,
I bay-leaf,
6 peppercorns,
12 whole cloves,
l/i teaspoon of ground allspice.
to


146
GOOD-LIVING.
SWEETBREADS.
TO PREPARE SWEETBREADS.
First soak in clear, cold water and vinegar for an hour to
draw out the blood. Then put into fresh cold water; add
salt; heat very gradually and boil for 20 minutes. Drain
and throw again into cold water. When thoroughly cold,
remove all the veins, strings, and fibres that you can de-
tach without breaking the sweetbreads into pieces. They
are now ready to be dressed according to any of the follow-
ing receipts.
FRIED SWEETBREADS.
RIS DE VEAU PANES.
Having prepared the sweetbreads as directed, cut them in
even-sized cubes or slices no less than 1 inch thick, or they
may be left whole; dip first in fine sifted bread- or cracker-
crumbs, then in white of egg, then again in the crumbs. Do
this at least an hour before dinner, and set in the ice-box.
When required, have lard at least 1£ inches deep boiling on
the fire. Use a frying-basket if possible. Lay in the pieces
of sweetbread. The lard should cover them. In about 4
minutes, if golden brown, drain them out and lay on brown
paper in the open oven door until dry (see General Di-
rections for Frying). Dish in a circle on cut paper or a
folded napkin, garnished around with cut lemon; put in the
centre a large bunch of Fried Parsley (see receipt). Serve in
a sauce-boat at the same time, Tomato Sauce, Tartare,
Poivrade, etc. (see receipts).
N. B.—Never serve the sauce on the same dish with fried
sweetbreads, or indeed with any thing fried, as the moisture
of the sauce will mar the perfection of the frying by making
the article so cooked soggy, limp, and tough. Sauted sweet-
breads, etc., should, on the contrary, be invariably served with
a sauce or puree of some sort on the dish.


SWEETBREADS BRAISED AND LARDED. I47
SWEETBREAD FRITTERS.
BEIGNETS DE RIS DE VEAU.
Having prepared the sweetbreads as first directed, cut them
in slices -J- an inch thick; sprinkle with pepper, salt, and a
little grated nutmeg, some finely-chopped parsley, and lemon-
juice; dip into Fritter Batter (see receipt). Have the lard
at least inches deep, boiling in a kettle on the fire. Drop
in the slices of sweetbread and fry 2 or 3 minutes, until light
golden brown (see General Directions for Frying). When
the fritters are sufficiently cooked, skim them out, and
drain on brown paper in the mouth of the oven. Place upon
the dish in a circle on cut paper or a folded napkin, and serve
with Tartare or Tomato Sauce (see receipts) in a boat.
Do not parboil the sweetbreads for this mode of cooking.
Soak them for 1 hour in cold water and vinegar. Remove
the veins and cords, but keep the sweetbreads whole. Lard
the side which is to stand uppermost. Lay the thin slices of
bacon in the bottom of a hot stewpan which will fit in the
oven. On these lay the sweetbreads, larding uppermost;
add onion, bay-leaf, spices, garlic, pepper, salt, and a few
strips of ham; add 1 gill of sherry or madeira, and only just
enough strong consomme to cover the sweetbreads f or even
less. Cover air-tight to keep in all the steam, and stew very
gently from 30 to 45 minutes, according to the size of the
sweetbreads. Melt the butter in a frying-pan and stir the
SWEETBREADS BRAISED AND LARDED.
RIS DE VEAU PIQUES ET BRAISES.
6 sweetbreads,
6 slices of bacon,
I bay-leaf,
6 allspice,
Pepper and salt,
I gill of sherry,
Consomme,
Salt pork for larding,
I chopped onion,
3 cloves,
I clove of garlic,
Strips of ham,
I teaspoon of butter,
I teaspoon of flour.


148 GOOD-LIVING.
flour with it until well browned but not burnt. Stir into it a
little of the sauce. Add it to the saucepan and boil for a
few minutes to thicken. Fifteen minutes before serving, un-
cover; set the pan in the oven and baste frequently. This
will glaze the surface and improve the appearance of the
larding. Now take out the sweetbreads and pieces of ham
and place them neatly on a hot dish. If the gravy is not
rich enough, boil it rapidly for a few minutes. Add season-
ing if required, and a little more wine. If not thick enough,
a little corn-starch blended with a few drops of cold water,
may be added and boiled 3 minutes. Mushrooms should be
added to the sauce after straining it (although not obliga-
tory). Pour some over the sweetbreads and serve the rest
in a boat. This is beyond question the best of the many
ways of cooking sweetbreads. Green peas should be served
at the same time.
SWEETBREADS SAUT&.
RIS DE VEAU SAUTES.
Having prepared the sweetbreads as first directed, cut
them in even slices about 1 inch thick; have some butter
melted in a frying-pan and lay in the slices of sweetbread,
turning until browned very slightly on both sides. Do not
let the butter burn. Leave them in the pan only just long
enough to heat through thoroughly and brown slightly; then
dish in a circle on a bed of vegetable puree of some sort,
and always with a sauce. Sweetbreads saute may be served
with:
Puree of Jerusalem artichokes, Puree of peas,
Puree of spinach, Puree of sorrel,
Puree of endives, Puree of sweet potatoes,
or with small green peas, asparagus tips, mushrooms,
cauliflower cut in pieces, etc., etc. In all the above cases a
sauce should be served on the dish. See receipts for Brown
Sauce and Brown Gravy.


SWEETBREADS WITH MUSHROOMS.
149
SWEETBREADS A LA POULETTE.
RIS DE VEAU A LA POULETTE.
6 sweetbreads,
1 gill of cream,
4 eggs, yolks only,
Lemon-juice,
1 tablespoon of butter,
2 tablespoons of flour,
Salt and pepper,
Parsley.
Having prepared the sweetbreads as directed in the first
receipt, cut them in pieces the size of a walnut. To make
the sauce, stir the flour and butter together over the fire, but
do not brown; when blended, pour in by degrees, stirring
unremittingly, enough boiling water to thin the sauce to the
consistency of very thick cream, almost as thick as batter;
add seasonings and lemon-juice. Now put in the sweet-
breads, and when heated through (they will not require boil-
ing) add in the cream which you have brought to boiling
point in another saucepan. Then remove from the fire; stir
in a small lump of fresh butter and the beaten yolks of eggs.
Stir briskly not to curdle. Sprinkle finely-chopped parsley
over and serve.
N. B.—To prevent the yolks from curdling, they should be
broken into a bowl and beaten until smooth with a table-
spoonful of the cold cream; then take a little of the hot
gravy, a spoonful at a time, and mix it in the bowl with the
eggs; when smooth turn the eggs into the hot sauce, and stir
quickly. Do not boil again after the eggs are in, but set
over a kettle of boiling water (bain-marie) to keep hot if it has
to stand at all. A great improvement upon the above con
ventional dish is
SWEETBREADS WITH MUSHROOMS.
RIS DE VEAU AUX CHAMPIGNONS.
To the above, add fresh or canned mushrooms and 1 gill of
sherry, before the eggs are added. Stew 5 minutes, then finish
as above.


GOOD-LIVING.
CURRIED SWEETBREADS.
RIS DE VEAU AU KARI.
Prepare as directed A la Poulette, adding powdered curry
to taste, carefully blended and mixed with the sauce before
the eggs are added; or the eggs may be omitted entirely.
Curried sweetbreads should be served with a Rice Border
(see receipt).
BROILED SWEETBREADS.
RIS DE VEAU GRILLES.
Having prepared the sweetbreads as described in first
receipt, heat the gridiron very hot over or under a clear fire.
Roll the sweetbreads in melted butter and place on the grid-
iron. Turn often, taking them off once or twice to dip again
in melted butter and return to the gridiron. When well col-
ored, season with salt and pepper and a squeeze of lemon-
juice. They should be eaten very hot. Serve with or with-
out other sauce than the melted butter. Excellent.
ROASTED SWEETBREADS.
RIS DE VEAU R6TIS.
Having prepared as directed in first receipt, dip whole as
for frying. When dipped, lay them in a roasting-pan with a
few spoonfuls of strong consomme. Baste frequently, and
when nicely browned, serve. They will not require more than
about 20 minutes. You may lay slices of bacon in the pan
under each sweetbread.
Or, prepare as for Braised Sweetbreads, larding or not as
you prefer. Then put them in the pan with the seasonings.
Cover the first pan with another. Bake until about half
cooked (20 to 25 minutes), then remove the top pan, baste
very frequently with wine and consomme, using less con-
somme than directed for braising. When brown and firm,
dish. They will require in all from 45 minutes to 1 hour, in
a moderate oven. Boil the gravy rapidly a few minutes, after


SWEETBREAD CROQUETTES.
removing the sweetbreads; thicken slightly with a little corn-
starch blended in cold water. Boil 3 minutes. Strain and
pour over the sweetbreads. Serve.
SWEETBREADS EN CASSEROLES.
RIS DE VEAU EN CASSEROLES.
Prepare as first directed; then cut in dice and proceed as
in receipt for Sweetbreads with Mushrooms, adding almost
an equal quantity of oysters from which the muscles have been
removed; use a generous proportion of mushrooms, more
wine, and a pinch of curry-powder (not enough to be percep-
tible) in the sauce, also a dash of celery-salt.
N. B.—The oysters should be scalded until firm in their own
juice, before adding to the sauce. The eggs may be omitted
if rich cream is used. The above receipt used as a filling for
pates of fine puff-paste, vol-au-vent, or served in casseroles or
cases will be found most delicious.
SWEETBREAD CROQUETTES.
CROQUETTES DE RIS DE VEAU.
I pair of sweetbreads, parboiled, ^ teaspoon of grated nutmeg,
I gill of cream or rich milk, I tablespoon of butter,
5 drops of onion-juice, 2 tablespoons of flour,
X teaspoon of white pepper, 2 tablespoons of chopped mushrooms,
Bread-crumbs, eggs, and lard, 1 tablespoon of chopped parsley.
Trim the sweetbreads and chop, not too fine, using a silver
knife. Bring the cream to a boil. Rub the butter and flour
together over the fire; add cream; stir smooth; boil until
very thick, stirring constantly. Remove from the fire; add
sweetbreads, seasonings, and mushrooms. Mix. Turn out
on a dish to cool. When cold and firm, have a plate of flour,
a plate with a beaten egg (or the whites alone), and a bowl
of fine sifted bread-crumbs. Flour your hands; take about
atablespoonful of the mixture, quickly form it into shape (the


GOOD-LIVING.
easiest is cylindrical, 1 x 2\ inches); dip this deftly into
the egg, then drop it into the bowl of crumbs and cover
it all over. Shape it again carefully and lay on a flat dish.
The croquettes should not touch, that the air may reach
all sides. There is a great knack in this part of making cro-
quettes of any kind. The best teacher of all is experience;
after a little while it will seem quite easy to handle them.
Set away in the ice-box for 2 or 3 hours. Have lard boiling
in a saucepan deep enough to cover the croquettes com-
pletely. Put them in a frying-basket and plunge them into
the boiling lard (see General Directions for Frying). When
fried golden brown, drain on paper in the mouth of the
oven; dish on a cut paper or folded napkin tastefully gar-
nished, and serve at the same time green peas.
SWEETBREADS, BALTIMORE STYLE.
RIS DE VEAU A LA BALTIMORE.
2 pairs sweetbreads, 2 gills of cream,
I tablespoon of butter, 1 teaspoon of butter,
I " "chopped parsley, I " "grated onion,
Sifted bread-crumbs, I " "flour,
Pepper, Salt.
Having prepared the sweetbreads as directed in first
receipt, dip them in egg and fine, sifted bread-crumbs. Set
aside 1 hour. Heat 1 tablespoonful of butter in a frying-
pan; when bubbling, lay in the sweetbreads. Brown one
side, then the other. Dish the sweetbreads. Strain the
butter into a clean pan. Add the onion, cream, pepper,
salt, and 1 extra teaspoonful of butter, and boil for 3
minutes. Now blend the flour with a little cold water.
Stir this into the boiling sauce. Boil 3 minutes, or until
thick enough. Add parsley. Pour the sauce over the
sweetbreads. Serve immediately.


CALF'S HEAD AU GRATIN.
CALF'S HEAD BOILED.
tete de veau au naturel.
Welsh the head (which should already be prepared free
from hair and bleached). Be very careful to thoroughly
cleanse the ears inside. Singe off any little downy hairs that
may remain. Pour boiling water through the throat and
nose passages. Put the head into a large kettle of cold
water. Bring it gradually to a boil and skim well. When it
has boiled 2 hours take it out, remove the eyes, which throw
away; remove the tongue and skin it. Return the head to
the kettle. Add salt, pepper, 1 gill of vinegar, a large bunch
of sweet herbs, spices, and I clove of garlic. Simmer 2 hours
longer, making 4 hours in all. It is now ready to serve Au
Naturel, or dressed according to any of the following receipts.
If it is to be served whole, boiled, it is advisable, when you
take it out after the first 2 hours, to rub it all over with
lemon-juice and tie it up in a clean, floured cloth. It will
then be whiter. Serve plain boiled calf's head with Maitre
d'H6tel or Poivrade Sauce (see receipts).
CALF'S HEAD A U GRA TIN.
TETE DE VEAU AU GRATIN.
Having boiled the calf's head as directed (see receipt), cut
off the meat from each side of the head, keeping it in 2
large pieces. Lay these neatly in a fire-proof dish. Pour
over it a mixture of melted butter, much lemon-juice, a
little French mustard, pepper, and salt. Tuck the ears under
so as to leave a smooth surface. Cover this with a beaten
egg, then with bread-crumbs and chopped parsley; place in
the oven until nicely browned, about 25 minutes. There
should be only butter, etc., enough to moisten and flavor the
meat; not enough to make a liquid sauce around it. The
brains, after being prepared as directed (see To Prepare
Calf's Brains), may be divided into pieces, dipped in batter
or egg and bread-crumbs, fried in boiling lard, and served at
the same time as a garnish.


GOOD-LIVING.
CALF'S HEAD WITH MUSHROOMS AND
TOM A TOES.
tete de veau aux tomates.
Having boiled the head as directed (see receipt), cut the
meat from it carefully; skin the tongue and slice it. Put
meat, tongue, and the brains (which have been previously pre-
pared) upon a hot dish and keep warm while the sauce is
being made.
I pt. of liquor in which the head was boiled, I tablespoon of sherry,
I tablespoon of butter and 2 of flour, browned, I " Worcestershire sauce,
5 mushrooms, cut fine, I " of mushroom catsup,
yi teaspoon of salt, Cayenne.
Blend the flour and butter with the liquor. Boil 5 min-
utes, stirring constantly. Add all the other ingredients.
Garnish the dish with 6 Baked Tomatoes (see receipt); pour
the gravy over the meat and serve.
CALF'S HEAD CHEESE.
FROMAGE DE TETE DE VEAU.
I head, Sage, parsley, thyme, sweet
1 cup of stale bread-crumbs, marjoram, powdered,
2 large tablespoons of vinegar, 4 cloves of garlic,
I tablespoon of salt, 2 carrots,
Cayenne, 2 onions,
I lb. of sausage meat, 10 whole cloves,
Mace, cloves, allspice, ground, 20 " allspice,
I slice of cold ham.
Wash the head, carefully cleansing the ears, and scalding
nose and throat passages. Put it into a large soup-kettle with
sufficient cold water to cover it. Add the salt. Bring it
slowly to a boil and boil about two hours. Then remove the
eyes and throw them away. Also remove the tongue, which
should be tender enough by this time. Put it away until
required. (Skin it before using.) Return the rest of the head
to the fire, adding the carrots, onions, and 2 cloves of garlic.
Let it boil until the bones slip out easily; about 3£ hours
in all, after it once breaks into a boil. Take out the


CALF'S HEAD A LA TERRAPIN. ljj
head and remove all the bones and any of the cartilage
that is too hard to put into the cheese. Put the large bones
back into the soup-kettle and let it all boil down for soup.
Put the smaller pieces into a saucepan with about 1 quart of
the liquor in which the head was boiled. Add 2 cloves of
garlic, 10 cloves, 20 allspice, and let it boil rapidly with the
cover off while you prepare the meat. Chop the meat of
the head into rather large pieces; mix with it the bread-
crumbs, sausage-meat, vinegar, salt, cayenne, and black pep-
per; then add ground mace, cloves, and allspice to taste, also
the powdered herbs; about I teaspoonful each of the latter;
it must be tasted and seasoned according to requirements.
Now make the mixture quite soft (as soft as batter) by
straining into it some of the liquor that has been boiling
down in the saucepan. When well mixed and soft, put the
mixture into a saucepan and set it over the fire, stirring con-
stantly to prevent scorching. Be most careful not to allow
it to scorch. Stir until it has boiled at least 3 minutes.
Rinse out with cold water tins the shape of a loaf; pour the
mixture into them, putting first a layer of this, then a few
larger pieces of tongue and some strips of cold boiled ham.
Fill with the mixture and set away to harden for at least 6
hours. When cut in slices, the addition of the ham will
make it prettily marbled. Eat for breakfast or luncheon.
This is excellent, and less trouble than it seems.
CALF'S HEAD A LA TERRAPIN.
tete de veau A la terrap1n.
Having boiled a calf's head (see receipt), cut the meat in
pieces from the cheek about 1 inch square. Make a Terra-
pin Sauce (see receipt); stir the calf's head into this sauce.
It is best made early and stood away for some hours before
dinner. The hard-boiled whites of the eggs may be sliced
and stirred in with the meat. When required, place the
bowl over a kettle of boiling water (bain-marie) for 30 or 45
minutes, where it will heat without cooking. Serve it in a
casserole or deep dish. Delicious.


GOOD-LIVlXGi
TO PREPARE CALVES' BRAINS FOR COOKING.
Wash first in clear, cold water. Throw this off. Cover
again with cold water, a tablespoonful of vinegar, and a tea-
spoonful of salt. Let them soak from 20 to 30 minutes.
Have ready on the fire a saucepan of salted boiling water;
lay in the brains; let them remain until firm, about 15 min-
utes, then drain and plunge again into cold water. This
process whitens them. When cold, draw off all the fibres
that you can without breaking them into pieces. After this,
they are ready to dress according to any of the following re-
ceipts.
CALVES' BRAINS FRIED.
CERVELLES DE VEAU FRITES.
Prepare as above; dip first in bread-crumbs, then in egg,
and again in crumbs. Set in the ice-box for at least 1 hour.
Fry in boiling lard until golden brown (see General Di-
rections for Frying). Drain on brown paper in the mouth
of the oven; dish; garnish with parsley and lemon, and
serve with Tomato or Tartare Sauce (see receipts).
CALVES' BRAINS A LA POULETTE.
CERVELLES DE VEAU A LA POULETTE.
Having prepared the brains as first directed, cut into
pieces the size of a walnut, and heat in a Poulette Sauce
(see receipt), adding mushrooms.
FRITTERS OF CALVES' BRAINS.
BEIGNETS DE CERVELLES DE VEAU.
3 pairs of brains, Fritter batter,
Lard, Pepper, salt, and lemon-juice.
Having prepared the brains as first directed, when cold,
remove the veins as far as possible without breaking them
too much. Season them with salt, pepper, and a squeeze of
lemon-juice, or nutmeg if preferred. Divide in small, even


CALVES' BRAINS WITH MACARONI. itf
pieces not less than I x 1 inch. Dip in very thick batter (see
batter for Clam Fritters). Bring the lard to a boil (see General
Directions for Frying). Too great stress cannot be laid
upon this essential for successful frying. Let it be deep
enough to cook the brains without their touching the bot-
tom of the pan, that they may puff equally on all sides.
Turn them to brown evenly. When golden brown, skim out
and lay upon paper in the mouth of the oven. When dry,
serve on a folded napkin or cut paper; garnish with a bunch
of Fried Parsley (see receipt). Serve with Mayonnaise, To-
mato, or Tartare Sauce (see receipts).
CALVES' BRAINS AU BEURRE NOIR.
CERVELLES DE VEAU AU BEURRE NOIR.
Prepare the brains as first directed. Melt a tablespoonful
of butter in a frying-pan. When it is bubbling, lay in the
brains whole or cut in halves. Turn and fry brown on all
sides. Remove to a hot dish. If the butter has been ab-
sorbed too much, add another spoonful and let it fry until
quite dark brown, then add 2 to 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar
according to the quantity of sauce required. Add pepper
and salt. Boil up once and pour over the fried brains. The
sauce should taste very strong of vinegar. This is one of
the most acceptable ways of cooking calves' brains.
CALVES' BRAINS WITH MACARONI.
CERVELLES DE VEAU SAUTEES A LA MILANAISE.
Serve fried in butter, dressed on a bed of Macaroni a
la Milanaise (see receipt).
Note. Nearly all receipts for sweetbreads will serve fot
the preparation of calves' brains.


158 GOOD.UVING.
Liver,
Flour,

Cut calf's liver in slices fully \ an inch thick; throw boiling
water over and let stand for 5 minutes. Wipe dry. Coat
thickly with flour. Have ready a frying-pan with the strips
of bacon cut thin. Fry 3 minutes. If necessary, add a lit-
tle lard if the bacon does not yield enough fat. When very
hot, drop in the slices of liver, fry a few minutes one side,
then turn and fry the other. When well browned, pour in
boiling water sufficient to half-cover the liver. Season.
Cover tightly and set back where it will simmer gently for
20 to 30 minutes. Then remove the liver to a hot dish with
the bacon; set the frying-pan over the fire, boil briskly and
stir. If it has steamed off too much, add a few spoon-
fuls of boiling water, boil, stir, and pour over the liver. This
is no more difficult than the coarsest and commonest way of
cooking liver, and makes of that article of food a tasty dish,
instead of what is generally set before one under the name
of liver and bacon—" chips and grease" might be a more
appropriate term. An onion cut fine and fried first with the
bacon, is a great addition, according to taste.
Tie the liver in a neat roll. If you cannot procure 1 large
one, take 2 smaller. If nicely tied up they look like a pair
of ducks when served. Fry the onions and carrots in but-
ter. Have an iron pot well heated. Lay in the slices of
bacon and fry for a few minutes; when the fat is melted out,
CALF'S LIVER BRAISED.
FOIE DE VEAU BRAISE.
Parsley,
3 cloves,
I large liver,
2 carrots, sliced,
1 turnip"
2 onions"
6 allspice,
I bay-leaf,
Butter,
Celery
lb. bacon,
Pepper and salt.


MOCJC TERRAPIN.
1S9
lay in the liver, turning it to sear on all sides. Do not sear
it too long or it will harden the skin. When ready, turn in
the fried vegetables; add all other vegetables and seasonings
and enough boiling water or stock to half-cover the liver.
Lay a little more bacon over the liver. Close the pot
air-tight. Bring to a rapid boil, then set away where it
will only simmer for about 2 hours. When the liver is per-
fectly cooked and firm to the touch, remove it to a hot dish.
Bring the gravy to a rapid boil; add to it a roux made of
I teaspoonful of butter and a heaping teaspoonful of flour
stirred together over the fire until brown, then blended with
a little of the boiling sauce. After adding this to the pot,
stir and let the gravy boil briskly for 5 minutes. Strain it.
Put the vegetables around the liver; pour some of the
sauce over the liver and serve the rest in a sauce-boat. A
little wine may be added to the sauce, but is not indispensa-
ble. Recommended.
Prepare as above. Cut the vegetables fine and put a layer
of them in the bottom of the pan. Cover the liver with
bread-crumbs; over this lay thin strips of bacon. Lay the
liver on the vegetables. Roast slowly for about 2 hours,
basting frequently with good stock or boiling water. Thicken
the sauce as above directed. Liver may also be roasted
without the bed of vegetables, but is not as tasty.
N. B.—The liver should be covered with a second pan to
prevent the surface from hardening.
ROASTED LIVER.
FOIE DE VEAU ROTI.
MOCK TERRAPIN.
% calf's liver,
2 gills of boiling water,
}£ gill of wine,
2 ounces of butter,
I teaspoon of mixed mustard,
Cayenne to taste,
2 hard-boiled eggs, chopped fine.
Season the liver with salt and fry slowly till brown; cut
it in small dice; dredge with flour; add the mustard, eggs,


t6d
GOOD-LIVING.
water, pepper and butter. Let it boil 2 or 3 minutes; then
add the wine, stirring well to mix it all through. Serve.
Cold veal may be substituted for the liver.
If beef's liver is used, pour the boiling water over the
slices and let stand 5 minutes before draining it off, cooking
as above.
Slice the liver. Throw boiling water over it for a minute.
Have the butter very hot in a frypan. Lay the slices in,
turning first one side, then the other until cooked firm.
Place neatly on a hot dish. Squeeze lemon-juice and sprinkle
parsley over the top. Add the butter in which the liver was
cooked, also a little wine, and serve. The gravy can be
slightly thickened if preferred.
N.B.—Beef's liver should be cut in slices, and boiling water
poured over it allowing it to stand 5 minutes before cooking.
Wipe the slices dry and cook according to any of the above
receipts.
Prepare like Beefsteak Smothered in Onions, having first
sauted or fried the liver.
CALF'S LIVER SAUT£.
FOIE DE VEAU SAUTE.
I liver,
Lemon-juice,
Pepper and salt,
Butter,
Parsley,
Wine to taste.
LIVER SMOTHERED IN ONIONS.
LIVER SA UTE WITH PICKLE SA UCE.
FOIE DE VEAU SAUTE AUX CORNICHONS.
Sauce: I teaspoon of butter,
Liver,
Lard,
2 ""flour,
I cup of boiling water,
1 tablespoon of vinegar,
Pepper and salt,
I tablespoon of capers or pickles.
Parsley, chopped fine,
Onion
Cut the liver in small, neat slices. Melt lard \ an inch
deep in the frying-pan. Heat by degrees until smoking hot.


FOURCHETTE.
161
While the lard is heating, make the sauce as follows: Brown
the butter and flour together over the fire, and when it is a
good color, but not burned, stir in slowly the boiling water,
blending perfectly smooth. Boil 5 minutes. Add salt and
pepper and a heaping tablespoonful of capers or chopped
pickles. Set the saucepan on one side of the fire, where it
will keep hot without cooking. Now put the parsley and
onion into the lard and let it cook 2 minutes, then lay the
sliced liver in the lard and turn constantly until slightly
browned on both sides. It is cooked when it is firm under
the pressure of the fork. As it finishes, lay each piece in the
sauce, covering it all over: When all is cooked, dish the
pieces in a circle and pour the sauce over all. This is much
better than the ordinary way of frying it.
BROILED LIVER.
FOIE DE VEAU GRILLE^
Cut the liver in thin slices ; lay it in salted cold water for 30
minutes, then wipe dry; lay the slices on a hot greased
broiler, turning often and basting with melted butter. This
should be done on a gridiron under the fire, and all the gravy
should be collected in a trough or pan at the bottom; pour
this over the liver. Season with pepper and salt and serve.
FOURCHETTE.
Take slices of salt pork about \ of an inch thick and 2 or 3
inches square; also slices of calf's liver the same size. Put
these alternatively on a long skewer beginning and ending
with pork. Lay it in the oven across a dripping-pan and
roast it as you would a bird, basting occasionally with a little
boiling water from the roasting-pan. It will take 15 to 20
minutes. The liver is done when firm to the touch, and the
pork should be transparent. When cooked, draw out the
skewer and serve in alternate slices of pork and liver. If you
use silver or plated skewers, serve without removing.
11


162
GOOD-LIVING.
TO PREPARE TRIPE.
Wash it in 3 or 4 waters until perfectly clean. It is always
bleached before it comes from market. In former times such
was not the case, and it was necessary to take much more
trouble in its preparation. When thoroughly clean, put it
into a kettle with cold water, salt, and 1 tablespoonful of
vinegar, and bring it to a boil. Add a couple of onions.
Stand the kettle where the tripe will simmer gently for fully
5 hours, until it is so tender that you can easily pierce it
through. Drain thoroughly, and it is now ready to be
dressed according to any of the following receipts.
FRIED TRIPE.
TRIPE FRITE.
Having prepared the tripe as above, cut it in strips about
I inch wide by 3 long. Coat it first with egg, then with
bread-crumbs and drop it into boiling lard (see General
Directions for Frying). When very light golden-brown, drain
it out, dry on paper in the mouth of the oven, and serve on
a folded napkin. To be eaten with Soubise, Tomato,
Poivrade, or Piquante Sauce (see receipts).
TRIPE SA UT&.
TRIPE SAUTE.
Having prepared as above, cut in strips like cigarettes.
Have some butter heated in a saucepan. Throw in the tripe;
toss and turn it until very slightly browned; sprinkle with
chopped parsley, and a squeeze of lemon-juice, pepper, and
salt, and serve.
TRIPE A LA POULETTE.
TRIPE A LA POULETTE.
Having prepared the tripe as first directed, make a rich Pou-
lette Sauce (see receipt). Have ready 8 to 12 small white


STUFFED CALF'S HEART.
163
onions cooked in plain boiling water until perfectly tender.
Add these to the Poulette Sauce and let them stew while
you cut the tripe in neat pieces, diamond-shaped, square, or
long. Add the tripe to the sauce; stew the whole gently
over boiling water (bain-marie) for 30 minutes. Note.—Do
not under any circumstances add the egg-yolks to a Poulette
Sauce until just ready to serve. If the sauce is boiled after
they are in, it will curdle. Season with parsley, pepper, salt,
and lemon-juice, and serve.
CALVES' KIDNEYS.
ROGNONS DE VEAU.
These are very delicate; far better than either beef or
lamb kidneys. Prepare according to any of the receipts
given for these latter.
STUFFED CALF'S HEART.
CCEUR DE VEAU FARCI.
Wash off, but do not soak. Stuff with a Turkey or Veal
Dressing (see receipts), highly seasoned. Tie a buttered
paper over the open end and bake in a small pan with pepper,
salt, and a little boiling water. Bake 2 hours, basting often.
When nearly done, remove the paper and let the top brown;
blend a little corn-starch with cold water, stir it into the boil-
ing gravy; boil 3 minutes, strain, skim, season, and pour it
over the heart. Garnish with onions that have been first
boiled, then sprinkled with salt, pepper, and sugar, and
browned in the oven.



PORK.
ROAST PIG.
COCHON DE LAIT R6TI.
I pig 3 weeks old,
3 teaspoons of chopped sage,
y% saltspoon of pepper,
4 times the bulk of onions in bread-crumbs,
2 large onions, minced,
2 ounces of butter,
I saltspoon of salt,
I egg.
The pig should be well cleaned, skinned, and washed.
Make a dressing of the above ingredients; fill the pig with
it, and sew up with strong thread, trussing the front legs
forward, the hind legs up against the body as if lying down.
Put a clean bit of wood between the jaws to keep them
slightly open. Rub the pig all over with butter, pepper, and
salt, then dredge with flour. Put in a pan in the oven; in
the pan put a very little boiling water. The heat should not
be too intense at first. It must cook slowly. Baste very
frequently, especially as it comes near being done. When
cooked (in about 3 hours), remove the bit of wood and re-
place it by the classic corn cob, or by a small red apple.
Serve with Apple Sauce (see receipt). Eat, and imagine, if
you can, that the shade of Charles Lamb is hovering over
you. The dressing indicated may be replaced by plain
mashed potatoes, or by a force-meat of veal, etc. (see re-
ceipts for Force-meats).
If the loin to be roasted is skinned, cover the top with
buttered paper; if the skin is on it, which is preferable, score
ROAST LOIN OF PORK.
LONGE DE PORC ROTIE.
164


PORK TENDERLOINS.
I65
with a sharp penknife in close lines down and across. This
latter will make what old-fashioned people call the " Crack-
lin'," and is very nutty. Rub the loin all over with pow-
dered sage. Put it into a very moderate oven, with very
little boiling water in the pan. Pork must always cook
slowly and long. Allow fully 20 minutes to the pound in a
moderate oven. Baste frequently, and when done, serve
with Apple Sauce (see receipt).
BROILED PORK CHOPS WITH PICKLE SA UCE.
COTELETTES DE PORC GRILLEES AUX CORNICHONS.
Use the rib chops. Clean off the handles; dip first in
melted butter, then in bread-crumbs, and broil over a clear
fire. Sauce for the same:
4 tablespoons of vinegar, I tablespoon of chopped pickles or capers,
8 or 10 tablespoons of stock, Pepper,
Corn-starch, Salt.
Boil the vinegar and stock together; while boiling, stir in
just enough corn-starch blended with a little cold stock to
make the sauce as thick as cream. Stir quickly and boil 3
minutes. Add pepper, salt, and chopped pickles or capers,
and pour over the chops, which have been dished in a circle,
with a frill on each chop handle. Serve.
PORK TENDERLOINS.
FILETS DE PORC SAUTES.
Split the tenderloins lengthwise, but do not separate the
two halves. Spread them open; rub all over with powdered
sage; sprinkle with pepper and salt. Have ready a very hot
frying-pan with a teaspoonful of butter or sweet drippings
melted in it. Lay in the tenderloins. In about 1 minute
turn them. Do not leave them long on any one side. Saute
them until slightly browned and quite firm under pressure
of the fork. They must be thoroughly cooked through, as
pork should always be eaten well done. Serve with Apple
Sauce (see receipt) or with grape or currant jelly.


i66
GOOD-LIVING.
PORK AND BEANS.
I quart of white beans,
pound of salt pork cut in strips,
I tablespoon of molasses,
I large onion, cut fine,
Pepper and salt,
Cold water to cover.
Put all but the molasses in a pot. Stand for an hour or
more at the side of the range to heat slowly. If the beans
can be soaked overnight, then they may be brought to a
boil more quickly and will take much less time to cook.
Boil very slowly. It is advisable, when boiling, to throw in
a gill of cold water from time to time. This makes the
hearts of the beans cook more evenly with the outsides.
When boiled perfectly tender, which will be from 3 to 6
hours, according to whether or not the beans have been pre-
viously soaked, drain off the liquor into a bowl; put the
beans into a bake-dish with the molasses, and fill to their
level with the liquor of the beans; bake in a very slow oven
for about 2 hours. The top should be nicely browned, but
not too dark, and the beans soft and creamy all through.
For Boston Baked Beans, see receipt.
Soak it overnight. If very dry, soak from 24 to 48 hours.
Scrape well and put in a kettle on the fire, with plenty of cold
water to cover it. Simmer gently from 5 to 8 hours, allowing
about 18 or 20 minutes to the pound (see Time-table.) It
is done when the small bone in the hock can be drawn out
easily. Then set aside the pot for the ham to get cold in
the water in which it was boiled. When nearly cold, care-
fully remove the skin. Do not cut, but draw it off. Dot
the top all over with black pepper.
Or, brush the top with egg; cover with a mixture of
bread-crumbs, pepper, salt, sugar, and a little made mustard.
If mustard is used, mix the egg with the bread-crumbs and
spread all over the ham; then set it in the oven until brown,
TO BOIL A HAM.
JAMBON.


FRIED HAM.
167
basting frequently with 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar and a
little boiling water in the pan. If very fat, the ham may
remain some time in the oven with advantage, as the fat will
melt out to a certain extent. Bake from 1 to 2 hours in a
slow oven. Practical experience of this mode of treating a
ham has proved entirely satisfactory.
LUNCH HAM.
Cut slices of cold, boiled ham; broil them; lay on a dish
with 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of hot vinegar, pepper, and a little
chopped parsley.
HAM TOAST FOR BREAKFAST.
I pint chopped lean ham, 2 beaten eggs,
1% ounces of butter, Toast. Pepper.
Melt the butter; lay in the ham. Season. When hot, stir
in the eggs. Stir until they set slightly; then spread on
slices of toast and serve. Be careful not to let the egg
harden too much. Cold tongue may be used in the same
way.
BROILED HAM.
JAMBON GRILL6.
Never, if you can avoid it, broil ham which has not been
previously boiled. It is most unwholesome. Cut the slices
not as thin as for frying, about \ of an inch thick. Have the
broiler very hot. Lay on the slices of ham, turning fre-
quently, until thoroughly hot and slightly browned. Serve.
FRIED HAM.
JAMBON FRIT.
Same rule applies to this as to broiled ham; never fry ham
unless previously boiled. It is unwholesome. Cut thin slices
of ham; have the frying-pan heated very hot; lay the ham
in, turning frequently to prevent hardening. When the fat
is transparent, serve.


168
GOOD-LIVING.
WESTPHALIA CROQUETTES.

Mix the ham with the hot potatoes; add the cream, butter,
and pepper, also salt, but only if necessary. Mould into round
balls, or long cylinder-shaped croquettes, I x 2\ inches; dip
in beaten egg and fine bread-crumbs. Lay in a frying-basket
and fry in deep boiling lard until golden brown (see Gen-
eral Directions for Frying). Serve in a pyramid on cut paper,
garnish with parsley. For detailed directions for dipping,
see Sweetbread Croquettes.
2 gills of ham, grated as fine as pow- 1 teaspoon of parsley, chopped as fine
3 eggs beaten, whites and yolks apart, Pepper and a little salt.
Heat I dish, or several small souffle cases. Mix together
ham, parsley, yolks, pepper, and salt. Beat very hard and
long. At the last moment add the whites beaten to a dry,
stiff froth; beat together only just enough to mix. Fill the
dish \ full and bake in a very hot oven from 6 to 10 minutes.
2 level tablespoonfuls of very thick Cream Sauce (see re-
ceipt) may be beaten up with the yolks of eggs, or may be
omitted.
HAM SOUFFLE'.
SOUFFLE AU JAMBON.
der,
as powder,
HAM PUFFS.
I pint of water,
I pint of flour,
% teaspoon of curry-powder,
4 eggs,
3 ounces of finely-chopped ham,
Cayenne.
While the water is boiling, stir in the flour; beat well and
stir until the stiff batter leaves the sides of the saucepan.
Remove from the fire, and beat in the eggs I at a time; add


HEAD CHEESE.
169
the ham, curry, a pinch of cayenne and a little salt, unless
the ham is already salt enough. Have on the fire a pan of
deep lard. Bring it slowly to a boil (see General Directions
for Frying). When the lard is boiling, drop in the batter in
bits \ as large as a hen's egg. Fry golden brown; drain on
soft paper, and serve in a pyramid on cut paper or a folded
napkin, garnished with parsley; or use as a garnish for turkey,
chickens, or veal. Note.—The lard should be deep enough
to float the fritters, or they will not puff as they should.
HAM BALLS.
yi, cup of cooked ham or tongue, Cayenne,
2 tablespoons of dried bread-crumbs, Yolk of 1 egg,
1 tablespoon of chopped parsley, 1 gill of milk.
Bring the milk to a boil; add to it the crumbs; stir it
over the fire until it thickens. Add the ham finely chopped,
parsley, cayenne, and the yolk of egg. Stir and mix well.
Turn it out on the dish to cool. When cold and firm, form
into small balls; roll first in egg, then in bread-crumbs and
set in the ice-box for at least 1 hour. Heat deep lard to a
boil. Put the balls in a frying-basket ; plunge into the boil-
ing lard and fry golden-brown (see General Directions for
Frying). Then remove to a folded paper in the mouth of the
oven for 1 minute to dry. Serve on a folded napkin. This
is also a good garnish for chicken and a nice relish for break-
fast.
HEAD CHEESE.
FROMAGE DE COCHON.
Having previously cleaned it thoroughly, put a pig's head
into a large pot; cover with cold water. (It is assumed that
the head has already been cleaned of all hair.) Bring it
gradually to a boil, adding a large tablespoonful of salt.
Boil until very tender, about 4 hours. Strip the meat from
the bones; throw away the eyes, which are best removed
after the head has been boiled 2 hours; chop the meat
coarsely, reserving some strips of tongue whole. Season


170
GOOD-LIVING.
highly with sage, black pepper, powdered cloves, allspice,
mace, thyme, and sweet marjoram, and 1 gill of good vine-
gar. Meanwhile let the liquor boil down, and when the
meat is all chopped, add a little of the liquor to slightly
soften it. Rinse out bread-tins with cold water; put in the
mixture, with the strips of tongue laid lengthwise; set away
in a cold place to harden. A few bits of cold boiled smoked
beef's tongue will also add to the marbled effect when cut in
slices. The addition of a little of the liquor boiled down
fills in the crevices with jelly. It will be ready for use as
soon as it is quite stiff, from 6 to 12 hours.
SCRAPPLE.
Boil a pig's head as directed for Head Cheese with 4
quarts of water, a little sage, salt, and pepper. Cut the
meat from the bones, rejecting the eyes; chop the rest quite
fine and return it to the liquor. Add enough corn-meal to
slightly thicken. Simmer 2 hours, when it should be of
the consistency of soft mush, not too thick to pour. Watch
carefully, and stir often to prevent scorching. Rinse out
bread-pans in cold water; pour the mixture into the pans
and set away to harden. When cold and stiff it may be
sliced and fried for breakfast. The slices must be rather
more than \ an inch thick, and should be carefully turned
with the cake-turner, as they break very easily. Serve very
hot, and eat with a few drops of pepper-vinegar added at
the table.
CREOLE SAUSAGES.
SAUCISSES A LA CREOLE.
1 pound of sausages (about 6 to a pound), 1 clove of garlic, pounded,
1 quart of tomatoes, or half a can, I teaspoon of salt,
}i saltspoon of pepper.
Prick the sausages and lay them in a stew-pan with the
tomatoes peeled and sliced, the garlic, and seasonings. Cover
the saucepan closely and simmer gently 30 minutes. (The
sauce may be slightly thickened with corn-starch.) Serve.
Very nice for luncheon.


SAUSAGE ROLL.
171
FRIED SAUSAGES AND APPLES.
SAUCISSES FRITES AUX POMMES.
Prick the sausages and fry, turning frequently to keep
from hardening any one side. They will require about 20
minutes, and must not be cooked on too quick a fire. When
the sausages are cooked, arrange them evenly in the centre
of a hot dish. Have some sour apples cored and cut across
in rings half an inch thick; fry until brown in the pan in
which the sausages have been cooked, or in another pan with
butter. When tender and slightly browned, dish around the
sausages and serve hot.
SAUSAGES WITH PUR&E OF POTATOES.
SAUCISSES, PUREE DE POMMES DE TERRE.
Prick the sausages and lay them in the bottom of a bake-
dish. Make a very soft puree of potatoes. Pour this over
the sausages; spread a beaten egg evenly over the top, and
bake about 30 minutes. Serve in the same dish. Recom-
mended.
HOME-MADE BREAKFAST SAUSAGE.
2 pounds of lean pork, I teaspoon of salt,
1 teaspoon of powdered sage leaves, I saltspoon of black pepper.
Chop the meat very fine, by the Enterprise Chopper if
you have one. Season. Make into balls or cakes and fry
brown in butter.
Make a rich Biscuit dough (see receipt). Put the sausage-
meat in the middle of the paste, which you have rolled out
about \ of an inch thick; spread out the sausage-meat to
SAUSAGE ROLL.
I pound sausage-meat,
Flour,
Lard,
Baking-powder,
Ice-water.


172
GOOD-LIVING.
both sides; roll the paste over this like a scroll; moisten the
flap to make it stick. Lay it in a long, narrow bread-pan
with the flap uppermost, and bake 20 to 25 minutes. Brush
the top over with egg or milk and set back into the oven to
brown. This is a very plain and old-fashioned dish, but very
savory.
SAUSAGES WITH CABBAGE.
SAUCISSES AUX CHOUX.
Scald the cabbage after cutting it a little coarser than
coldslaw. Throw off the water. Cover again with boiling
water, and boil until tender, about 20 minutes. Fry the
sausages, meanwhile, until about half done; then drain the
cabbage; turn into it the sausages and also the fat that has
melted out of them; cover and stew gently where it will not
scorch until the sausages are quite cooked, about 30 minutes.
Dish the sausages in the centre and make a border of the
cabbage. Serve.
SOUSED PIG'S FEET, OR PIG'S PETTITOES.
Take 4 young and tender pigs' feet; cover with cold
water. Bring to a boil, and cook gently until so tender that
the bones may be drawn out easily. Remove the feet
and sprinkle a little salt over them. When cold, lay them in
a crock. When the liquor in which the feet have boiled is
cold, skim it, and to 1 quart of the liquor add 1 quart of
vinegar. Put it into a china-lined kettle and boil a few min-
utes with some whole peppers, cloves, and allspice, and pour
it boiling over the feet. There should be liquid enough to
cover the feet. Cover the crock; set in a cool place and
they will keep for some time.
FRIED PIG'S FEET FOR BREAKFAST.
PIEDS DE COCHON FRITS.
Take out some of the feet prepared as above, removing
from them all extra jelly; roll in flour. Have some hot but-


TOASTED BACON.
173
ter 1n a very hot frying-pan; lay in the feet and fry until
brown on one side; then turn with a cake-lifter and brown the
other side. There should be a crisp brown crust formed in
this way. Remove with the cake-turner to a hot dish, and
serve.
BACON IN BA TTER FOR BREAKFAST.
Roll very thin slices of bacon in batter and fry in boiling
lard. The bacon should be previously boiled and the rind
removed. Serve alone or with fried chicken. See receipt
for Fritter Batter.
FRIED BACON NO. I.
Having removed the rind, dip thin slices of boiled bacon
in egg and bread-crumbs and fry in boiling lard. Drain dry
and serve.
FRIED BACON NO. II.
Cut raw bacon in slices \ of an inch thick and 4 inches
long. Cut off the rind. It should be fried only until trans-
parent, not crisp. Tilt the pan to allow the fat as it melts
to run down, so that the bacon shall not lie in it.
TOASTED BACON.
Cut the slices as above; lay them on a tin pie-plate and
set the plate on the gridiron under the grate. It must tilt
slightly, so that the bacon will not be greasy. Cook until
transparent and slightly curled; or it may be crisped if de-
sired.



TIME-TABLE FOR COOKING POULTRY
AND GAME.
Hour.
Minutes.
About 15
About I
About 15
About 25
30 to 35
35 to 45
Saddle of venison, oven, very under-done ,
9
Haunch of venison, oven, moderately under-done, per lb.
10
15
15
20 to 30
20 to 30
15 to 30



POULTRY.
TO CLEAN POULTRY AND GAME.
First twist up a piece of newspaper and light it on the
hearth; while burning, pass the chickens, held by the neck and
feet, backward and forward over the blaze, turning until all
the hairs are singed off. Cut off the feet just above the
claws. Hold the legs in boiling water for I minute or 2, and
scrape off the scales with a knife. The French people, who
know better than any other nation what a real roast chicken
is, always cut the legs as described, not at the first joint of the
drumstick as we do. The chickens dressed in this manner
present a much better appearance. Cut off the head; slit
the skin of the neck down the back to near the shoulders;
push it off toward the front, and cut the neck off quite close
to the shoulders. This leaves a good flap of skin to fasten
down later. Draw down the skin over the breast and take
out the whole craw without breaking it. Make an incision
under the rump, just large enough to let in the fingers to
draw it easily. Take out all the entrails, being most careful
not to break the gall-bag, or the whole chicken will have a
bitter, disagreeable taste, rendering it practically unfit for
eating. Do not wash or soak poultry or game unless you
have broken the gall-bag, in which case it should be rinsed
out quickly with water in which there is dissolved some bak-
ing-soda, allowing 1 teaspoonful to the quart. Rinse quickly
and dry out thoroughly and immediately. It is a great mis-
take to soak poultry or game. It may be well washed be-
175


GOOD-LIVING.
fore, but not after, being drawn, and if carefully cleaned,
will require only to be wiped out with a wet cloth, then
dried. It is now ready for use. Cut the liver from the gall-
bag, being again very careful with this. Cut the heart open;
remove any clotted blood. Draw off the outer covering of
the gizzard, throwing away the inner sand-bag whole. Wash
thoroughly and set aside for use. The above directions
apply to all poultry and game, with the exception of cutting
off the feet. In some of the smaller game the feet are left
on; in other cases cut off; the directions will be given for
such in its place.
TO TRUSS A FOWL WHEN DRAWN.
Cross the last joint of the wings above the first joint, and
run I skewer through them and the body. Near the rump,
each side of the opening made for drawing the fowl, make 2
incisions, through which, by pressing back the legs very
gently and persistently, the ends may be slipped. Then
sew up the first opening with soft cotton. Stuff the breast
of the bird through the neck till the craw is filled out; turn
under the flap of skin and skewer it to the back. Or, instead
of treating the legs as above, tie them together at the first
joint; press them up against the body and run 1 skewer
through them and the body.
TO ROAST CHICKENS.
POULETS ROTIS.
Select a pair of nice, young, but full-grown chickens about
1 year old. The skin should be smooth and tender; the
breastbone pliable at the point. After being cleaned as
directed, make a dressing of 1 cup of stale bread-crumbs, 1
tablespoonful of melted butter, 1 tablespoonful of chopped
parsley, salt and pepper. Fill the craw only; turn the skin
of the neck outside-in (like a glove-finger) as far as it will go,
and fasten it on the under side with a skewer, unless you pre-


TO ROAST CHICKENS.
fer sewing it, in which case do not forget to remove the
thread before serving the chicken. Now truss it. Put a
large lump of butter into the body; sew up the incision made
for drawing. Turn the chicken breast upward with the rump
toward you. Push the legs up under the skin, cross them a
little ; run I skewer through legs and body. Turn the wings
back. Run another skewer through them and the body of
the chicken. Tie the legs together just below the drumsticks;
twist the twine around the skewer, carry it up the back;
wrap it round the ends of the wing-skewer and tie firmly.
Note.—In dressing capons, etc., do not cross the legs. Put
4 slices of bacon in the roasting-pan; lay the chickens on
them; rub the breasts with butter and put a tablespoonful of
butter in the pan, adding not more than 3 or4tablespoonfuls
of boiling water. They should be basted almost entirely
with melted butter. Allow 15 minutes to the pound; that
is, 1 hour for a pair of chickens weighing about 4 pounds
each. Baste every 10 minutes; 15 minutes before they are
done, baste with the butter, dredge with flour, and return to
the oven to brown. If in danger of browning too quickly,
omit the flour and cover with 1 sheet or 2 of thick brown
paper. They should be evenly golden brown, if properly
roasted. When done, the flesh will feel perfectly firm under
pressure. Do not, on any account, pierce with a fork to
ascertain this; it is perfectly possible without having re-
course to such means. Never pierce cooked meat of any
sort; feel it with the flat side of the fork' or knife, and in a
very short time experience will teach you. White meat,
poultry, game, veal, pork, or lamb should all feel quite firm;
all dark game and meats should feel elastic and springy,
more or less according to the degree of cooking required.
The softer they are the less they are cooked. Which means
that white meats must be well-done all through, red or
dark meats under-done.
Chickens may be trussed, if preferred, according to direc-
tions To Truss a Fowl. When done, remove the strings and
skewers and place the chickens upon a hot dish.
12


178
GOOD-LIVWG.
Sauce: Put the giblets in a saucepan and cover them with
cold water.. Simmer gently as long as the chickens roast;
chop the giblets fine; add I tablespoonful of flour to the pan
in which the chickens were roasted; stir over the fire for
5 minutes ; then add 2 gills of the liquor in which the giblets
were cooked; stir until it boils. Add the giblets, pepper,
and salt, and serve in a boat. Place a thick bed of water-
cresses around the chickens and serve. Omit the giblet sauce
and use the plain pan-gravy, if preferred.
N. B.—It is much better to use a Dutch oven, if possible,
for the above. The time required is about the same as for
the oven.
SMOTHERED CHICKEN.
For this mode of cooking, select a good-sized broiler, some-
thing between the little broiler and the year-old roasting-
chicken. Singe, draw (see directions), and split it down the
back. Wipe off with first a wet, then a dry towel. Spread
it open, and hold it in shape by passing a skewer across
through the wings, placing the liver under one wing, the
gizzard under the other. Now lay it in a roasting-pan; put
a quarter of a pound of butter cut in pieces, 2 or 3 table-
spoonfuls of boiling water over the chicken, and sprinkle
with salt and pepper. Cover with a second pan that will fit
closely and keep in all the steam. Place in the oven and
roast for about 1 hour (more or less according to the size of
the chicken). When half-done, turn the chicken over and
finish on the second side. When done, it should be gold-
color, not brown. If you like, have a gridiron heated
very hot, and when the chicken is done, lay it breast down-
ward on the bars before the fire for 3 or 4 minutes, until
it takes the marks of the hot bars. Then lay it on a hot
dish; spread it thickly with butter; sprinkle with chopped
parsley; let it stand about 2 minutes in a warm place to melt
the butter; garnish and serve. Chicken treated in this way
will be found to have all the sweetness of the ordinary
broiled chicken and, at the same time, be more evenly cooked
and juicy.


BRAISED CHICKEN WITH MACARONI. 179
BROILED CHICKEN.
POULET GRILLE AUX CRESSONS.
For this purpose select the smallest chickens that come to
market. Singe, draw, wipe clean, split, and spread, keeping
in place with a skewer run through the wings and under
side. Have the broiler very hot. Broil if possible under,
not over, a clear, bright fire. A wood fire is the best by far
for the purpose. Set the chicken with the under, or bone
side, toward the hot coals. (If over the fire, turn a plate
over the chicken.) Put a pan under the gridiron to catch
the juices. Baste with melted butter. Broil about \ of the
time with the bone side toward the blaze. When nearly
done, turn the breast toward the fire and broil until nicely
browned; be very careful not to scorch. The time will vary
according to the size of the chicken, the average being about
30 minutes. Serve with melted butter, pepper, salt, and
chopped parsley; garnish with cresses.
BRAISED CHICKEN WITH MACARONI.
POULET BRAISE AU MACARONI.
Singe, draw, clean, and truss the chicken as directed for
roasting. Melt a tablespoonful of butter in the frying-pan;
when hot, lay in the chicken and turn until golden brown on
all sides. Then proceed as for Plain Braise, thickening
the gravy with a roux as directed. An average-sized fowl
will require 2 hours; if old, longer; if young and tender, 1
hour and 15 minutes to 1 hour and 30 minutes. Mean-
while, boil half a pound of macaroni in salted boiling water
for 20 minutes. When tender, drain it dry. While the
macaroni is draining, remove the chicken from the pot to a
hot dish; strain the sauce; return it to the fire; put the
macaroni into it and simmer, not boil, for 15 to 20 minutes,
until the macaroni has become thoroughly moistened with
the sauce. Dish the macaroni around the chicken; pour


i8o
GOOD-LIVING.
some of the remaining sauce over it, and serve the rest in a
boat. The addition of 1 cup of tomatoes to the sauce when
first put down to cook, will improve both its color and flavor.
BRAISED CHICKEN WITH CARROTS.
POULET BRAISE AUX CAROTTES.
Having dressed and trussed the chicken as directed, melt
I tablespoonful of butter in the frying-pan; when it is hot,
lay in the chicken, turning on all sides until evenly browned.
Then cook it as directed for Plain Braise, adding I cup
of tomatoes, 4 large carrots cut in strips and fried in butter,
also a roux as directed. Serve with the carrots around the
chicken, and the sauce strained and served in a boat.
BRAISED CHICKEN WITH JERUSALEM ARTI-
CHOKES.
POULET BRAISE AUX TOPINAMBOURS.
Braise the chicken as directed above, thickening the
gravy with a roux. Make a puree of Jerusalem arti-
chokes thus: Select about 2 quarts of the largest artichokes;
wash them and put them down to boil in a pot of boiling
water. Boil 15 to 25 minutes, according to size, until tender.
Drain, peel, mash through a colander; add salt and pepper,
butter the size of a walnut, and cream to moisten the puree
to the consistency of soft mashed potatoes. Failing cream,
use the sauce of the chicken to moisten it. Return to the
fire in a china-lined saucepan; when thoroughly hot, dish it
around the chicken; strain some of the chicken-gravy over it,
and serve the rest in a boat. Or, wash, peel, and boil the
artichokes as directed; strain the gravy of the chicken; put
chicken, artichokes, and gravy back into the pot and stew
gently until the artichokes begin to melt away. This
system is better with a fowl, as it will bear the prolonged
cooking and be improved by it. In this case, add the arti-
chokes at least 1 hour before the fowl should be finished.
Delicious.


SPANISH CHICKEN.
181
CHICKEN LIVERS SA UT&.
FOIES DE VOLAILLES SAUTES.
Put a lump of butter in a saucepan on the fire; add
I onion chopped fine; fry until gold color; add the livers
whole and some chopped parsley. Cook until firm, shaking
frequently. Remove the livers to a hot dish. Add to the
saucepan a little stock and a pinch of flour to thicken; stir
and boil 3 minutes. Strain. Add salt, pepper, a little wine,
and some fresh chopped parsley. Pour over the livers and
serve with diamond-shaped Croutons (see receipt) as
garnish.
SPANISH CHICKEN.
POULET A l.'ESPAGNOLE.
2 chickens, 2 gills of sweet oil,
4 small onions, chopped, I clove of garlic,
2 cans of tomatoes, 2 bay-leaves,
lady-finger pepper, without seeds, Parsley,
Sprig of thyme, Salt and pepper,
2 slices of bacon or l/z lb. of ham, % sweet Spanish pepper.
Singe, clean and joint the chickens as for fricassee. Bone
the drumsticks. If old, remove the skin. Lay the pieces in
ice-water and I tablespoonful of vinegar for I hour. Put the
oil (or sweet drippings) into a large frying-pan. Put in first
the largest pieces of chicken, and then the smaller. Put the
breasts with the meat downward. Fry until a delicate gold
color. Remove the pieces as they brown to a large stewpan.
Add the onions, etc., etc.,. the bacon or ham to be cut in nar-
row strips. Stew for I hour, if the chickens are very young;
from this to 2 hours and 30 minutes, according to the quality
of the chickens. They must become perfectly tender. Re-
move the chickens and pieces of ham. Dish first the inferior
pieces and finish with the best. Strain the sauce. Return it
to the fire and boil rapidly for 15 minutes longer. If not
thick enough, add a very little corn-starch blended with a few
drops of cold water, and boil 2 minutes. Pour some of the


182
GOOD-LIVING.
sauce over the chicken, serve the rest in a boat. Decorate
the dish, if you want to make it as attractive to the eye as it
is pleasing to the palate, with diamond-shaped Croutons (see
receipt), mushrooms, quarters of hard-boiled eggs, olives, etc.
These latter are not essential. The above receipt resembles
very much the Poulet a la Marengo, but is much easier to
make.
CHICKEN SO UFFLE.
2 gills White Sauce ( see receipt), 3 yolks of eggs.
Salt, 3 whites beaten to a stiff froth,
Pepper, Y lb. of cold chicken.
Boil the sauce till it forms a thick paste. Cut the chicken
very fine and rub it through a sieve ; or pound it in a mortar
before passing through the sieve. Mix it with the sauce and
seasoning. Beat in the yolks of eggs. Heat and butter 1
bake-dish or several small souffle-cases. At the last moment
stir the whites of eggs very lightly into the mixture; fill
the dish \ full and bake in a very hot oven 8 to 12 minutes.
The flavor of the above may be varied by passing mush-
rooms through the sieve with the chicken, observing the
same proportions. This dish must be eaten immediately, as
standing spoils it.
FRICASS&E OF CHICKEN. I.
FRICASSEE DE POULET I.
2 chickens, Juice of half a lemon,
I clove of garlic, I quart of cold water,
Pepper and salt, Bunch of parsley,
1 onion, Small piece of pork,
1 teaspoon of butter, I gill of flour,
3 tablespoons of cream, 3 yolks of eggs,
2 carrots, White wine and mushrooms may be added.
Cut the chickens, when cleaned, in pieces. Use the finer
parts for the fricassee; the coarser parts for the sauce. Put
the coarser pieces into a china-lined saucepan with the water,
spices, onion, parsley, pork etc. Simmer 30 minutes, then
add the finer pieces. Let them boil slowly until done, from
I to 2 hours according to the quality of the chickens. They


CHICKEN STEW WITH VEGETABLES. 183
must cook very slowly. When very tender, take out the
finer pieces; keep them warm while you prepare the sauce.
Strain the gravy; skim. Return it to the fire. Blend
together the butter and flour over the fire in another sauce-
pan ; do not let them brown. When well blended, add some
of the boiling gravy and stir until perfectly smooth ; then add
the rest of the gravy. Stir and boil 4 or 5 minutes. Remove
from the fire and stir in quickly the yolks of eggs beaten up
with the cream. Add the lemon-juice. Do not boil again
after the eggs are added or it will curdle. Add wine to taste
and mushrooms, if liked. Serve in a border of rice or mashed
potatoes with sauce poured over the chicken.
Fricassee your chicken (see receipt). To the rich creamy
sauce, add just enough curry-powder, rubbed smooth, to
flavor the sauce slightly and to give it a pretty yellow tint.
Have some Boiled Rice (see receipt) ; when it is dry, add to it
just enough stewed, strained tomato-juice to make it a pretty
light-red. Make a wall of this around the edge of the dish;
in the centre place the pieces of chicken, the coarser parts
below, the best on top; pour over this the yellow sauce.
Sprinkle a little finely-chopped parsley over; stick little
sprigs of fresh green parsley at even distances around be-
tween the yellow and pink; garnish the edge of the dish
with hard-boiled eggs cut in quarters, and you have, with
very little trouble, a dish equally pleasing to both palate
and eye.
A DAINTY CHICKEN FRICASSEE. II.
FRICASSEE DE POULET II.
CHICKEN STEW WITH VEGETABLES.
2 fowl, trussed whole,
2 ounces of butter,
I pint of sweet corn,
3 slices of bacon, cut in strips,
pints of cold water,
^ tablespoon of flour,
I pint of lima beans,
Salt, pepper, and cayenne.
Having cleaned and trussed the fowl as directed (see
receipts), put them in a stewpan with cold water. When it


184
GOOD-LIVING.
simmers, add the butter and flour rubbed together until
smooth; the corn cut from the cob, the limas, bacon, salt,
pepper, and a pinch of cayenne. Let all stew slowly together
until done. If the fowl are tough, however, they will need 2
hours or even 2 hours and 30 minutes, in which case the
vegetables should not be added until about 1 hour before the
fowl are to be done. If young chickens, they will not require
more than 1 hour to 1 hour and 30 minutes, according to
size. Serve the fowl in the centre of the dish with the
vegetables around, and the sauce in the boat.
CHICKEN STEW WITH DUMPLINGS.
I chicken, 1 large onion, cut fine,
3 pints of cold water, 1 carrot, cut fine,
Butter, salt, and pepper, % turnip,""
Cut up the chicken as for fricassee. Put it into astewpan
with cold water, and let it come to a boil. Put the vege-
tables into a frying-pan, with 1 tablespoonful of butter, and
fry until brown, but not burned. Add a few tablespoonfuls
of boiling water; cover and stew until tender. Then mash
them through a strainer into the saucepan containing the
chicken. Simmer very gently until the chicken is tender.
An old fowl will require fully 2 hours or more; a young
chicken about 1 hour. About 12 minutes before serving,
bring to abrisk boil, and drop in the Dumplings (see receipt).
Cover the saucepan ; boil rapidly 10 or 12 minutes. Remove
the dumplings, and keep them warm while you dish the
chicken. Pour the gravy over; place the dumplings around
the dish, and serve. N. B.—Take care that the sauce does
not scorch while the dumplings are cooking, as this happens
very easily.
CHICKEN CURRY.
POULET AU KARI.
I chicken of about 3 pounds, 2 large onions, cut fine,
3 tomatoes, or I cup of canned, ^ cup of butter,
I cup of new milk, Pinch of cayenne,
About 1 teaspoon of curry-powder.
Fry the onions in butter until brown, but do not burn.
Add the chicken, cut up as for fricassee, and the other


Fillets of chicked.
t85
ingredients, reserving the curry. Cover tightly, and simmer
gently 1 hour, stirring occasionally. Add the milk. Bring
to a boil. Mix the curry and one teaspoonful of corn-starch
with a little cold water. Stir it into the boiling sauce.
When it has boiled two minutes, remove and serve in a Rice
Border (see receipt). Note.—The time allowed is for a young
chicken. The quantity of curry-powder used must depend
upon its strength.
CHICKEN SA UTE WITH PEAS.
POULET SAUTE AUX PETITS POIS.
Pieces of cold chicken, 2 ounces of butter,
Pepper and salt, Pinch of ground mace,
I dessertspoon of flour, 2 gills of stock,
I pint of fresh peas, I teaspoon of powdered sugar.
Cut the chicken into neat dice, not too small. Melt the
butter in a saucepan; lay in the pieces of chicken; sprinkle
with pepper, salt, and a pinch of mace; toss the chicken
until of a nice light brown. Dredge in the flour; stir it
around; then add the stock and peas, and stew until the
latter are tender—about 20 minutes, if young. Add the
sugar and more pepper and salt if necessary. Place the
chicken in the centre of a hot dish, the peas around, and the
gravy over all. Garnish with large Croutons (see receipt).
FILLETS OF CHICKEN.
FILETS DE POULETS SAUTES.
I chicken,
Salt and pepper,
3 gills of milk,
1 tablespoon of flour,
Flour,
4 tablespoons of butter,
Pinch of mustard,
Puree of peas or potatoes for garnishing.
Remove the white meat from the breastbone, 1 solid piece
from each side. Bone the legs and thighs, making 1 piece of
each; that is, 4 fillets to each chicken. Remove the skin.
Flatten with the potato-masher. Season with salt and
pepper. Dredge with flour. Melt in the frying-pan \ a
tablespoonful of butter for each fillet. When hot, lay in the


BEIGNETS OF CHICKEN k LA TAX TARE.
I87
CHICKEN EN MA TELOTE.
MATELOTE DE POULET.
I chicken,
I quart of stock,
I chicken liver, rubbed fine,
I tablespoon of capers,
% pound of mushrooms,
I carrot, cut in dice,
I onion, " ""
I parsnip," ""
Salt and pepper,
Butter and flour.
Joint the chicken as for fricassee. Rub the pieces with
butter, and roll them in flour. Put them in a pan in the
oven to brown. Meanwhile fry the vegetables in butter for
20 minutes. When the chicken is brown, in about 20
minutes, put it and the vegetables into a stewpan with the
broth or same quantity of water. Add the liver, capers, salt,
and pepper. Cook gently for f of an hour. Then add the
mushrooms, cut not too fine. Simmer 15 minutes longer.
If the gravy is not thick enough, after removing the chicken
to a hot dish, bring it to a brisk boil; stir in about 1 tea-
spoon of corn-starch, rubbed smooth with a little cold water;
stir and boil 2 minutes, and pour over the chicken. Serve
with a border of macaroni, rice, or mashed potato. The
above receipt is for a tender young chicken.
BEIGNETS OF CHICKEN A LA TART ARE.
BEIGNETS DE POULET A LA TARTARE.
Pieces of cold chicken, Lard, pepper, and salt,
Fritter batter, Tartare Sauce.
Cut the chicken into neat, even pieces, about 1 x 2 inches.
Have the lard deep enough in the pan to cook the beignets
without allowing them to touch the bottom. Dip the pieces
of chicken into Fritter Batter (see receipt). Note.—The
batter should be very thick. Drop them into the boiling
lard, and as they become pale golden-yellow, skim them out
and lay on a piece of paper in mouth of the oven until dry.
Serve in a pyramid on a cut paper or folded napkin. Gar-
nish with a bunch of Fried Parsley (see receipt), and serve


188 GOOD-LIVING.
with a Tartare Sauce (see receipt). The beignets should
puff like dough-nuts. A very good addition to the above is
half the quantity of ham cut in strips and fried with the
chicken.
MARYLAND CHICKEN WITH CORN DODGERS.
2 young chickens. Cream,
Lard, Pepper,
Parsley, Salt,
Cold corn-meal mush, Flour.
The chickens for this must be young and tender. When
cleaned, joint them as for fricassee. Have the lard quite
deep in the frying-pan and bring it to a boil. Having made
sure of this important point, wipe the chicken and drop the
pieces into the boiling lard. Fry until well browned and
cooked through, from 15 to 25 minutes, according to the size
of the pieces. The thick pieces of breast, etc., will take
longer than the others. As the pieces are cooked, remove
to a hot dish. When all are done, pour off the top of the
lard, leaving in the pan any gravy of the chicken that may
remain. Return the pan to the fire and pour in about 2 gills
or more of cream. Dredge in a little flour; stir; bring it to
a boil, and let it boil 3 minutes. Season with pepper and
salt. Pour this over the chicken. Sprinkle over the top
some finely-chopped parsley. Have ready firm, cold corn-
meal mush. Cut it into slices fully £ inch thick; cut these
into even, diamond-shaped pieces; dip them lightly in
egg, cover with flour, and fry in butter. Garnish the edge
of the platter with these corn dodgers, and serve. This
receipt came from the land of Maryland chicken.
PEBRE (SPANISH).
Pieces of cold chicken, Sweet oil,
2 cloves, Lemon-juice,
Salt, Pinch of saffron.
Cut in pieces the chicken which has been previously boiled
with salt and whole peppers. Bring the sweet oil to a boil.


CHICKEN A LA REINE.
189
Drop in the pieces of chicken. Brown slightly. Add the
seasonings. Moisten with some of the broth in which the
chicken has been boiled. Cover. Boil up once and serve.
Garnish with large Croutons (see receipt).
AS ADO (SPANISH FRICASS&E).
I chicken, whole, I clove of garlic,
Salt and cayenne, 1 slice of ham.
Pinch of saffron. Corn-starch.
Put the chicken, when it is cleaned and trussed, into a pot
of boiling water. Skim as it boils. The water should cover
the chicken, but no more. Add the other ingredients.
When tender, which will depend entirely upon the age of
•the chicken, say after 1 to 2 hours' boiling, take out the
chicken, put it into a colander over hot water, and let the
sauce boil down until of a good strength, which will take from
15 to 30 minutes. Strain. Return to the fire, and when
boiling, add corn-starch rubbed up in cold water until the
sauce is as thick as cream. Dish the chicken and the ham;
pour some of the sauce over it and serve the rest in a sauce-
boat.
CHICKEN A LA REINE.
POULET A LA REINE.
2 chickens, Salt and pepper,
X pound of salt pork, cut in pieces, Flour,
I carrot, cut fine, 2 quarts of broth or water,
I onion" Bunch of sweet herbs.
Clean and truss young chickens as for roasting. Dredge
with salt, pepper, and flour. Lay half of the pork in the
bottom of a stewpan which will fit in the oven. Put the
carrot and onion with the pork, and stir over the fire until
beginning to brown. Then put in the chickens; cover with
the remainder of the pork. Cover the saucepan air-tight,
and set in the oven for 20 minutes. Then add the boiling
broth or water and bunch of herbs. Dredge with flour.


190
GOOD-LIVING.
Cover again and return to the oven. After 1 hour turn the
chickens over. Cook in all about 2 hours in a moderate oven.
Dish the chickens and keep warm while you boil down the
gravy briskly. Skim, strain, and pour over the chickens.
Serve. N. B.—Roasting fowl can be used for the above
receipt.
DEVILLED CHICKEN EN CAISSES.
POULET DIABLE EN CAISSES.
t pint of cold chicken or turkey, minced,
I tablespoon of butter,
^ pint of cream,
I tablespoon of chopped parsley,
2 tablespoons of fine bread-crumbs,
Cayenne and salt,
% nutmeg, grated,
3 hard-boiled eggs.
Melt the butter in a frying-pan; add the bread-crumbs, •
cream, chicken, and seasonings. Stir until it boils. Serve
in paper cases, casseroles, or shells. Fill the cases. Press
the yolks of the eggs through a sieve with a potato-masher.
Cover the surface of the chicken with this powdered egg,
and serve. Or, chop the eggs fine and add to the mixture,
covering the surface in this case with bread-crumbs and bits
of butter; set in the oven until slightly browned, and serve.
Chopped mushrooms may be added to the above.
Cold veal or lamb may be substituted for the chicken in
the same proportions.
CHICKEN WITH RICE AND TOMA TO SA UCE.
FRICASSEE DE POULET, SAUCE TOMATE.
Singe, draw, clean a 4-lb. chicken or fowl; cut it in joints
as for fricassee. Put into a stewpan ; half cover with boiling
water, and simmer. Add £ cup of washed rice, 1 teaspoon-
ful of salt. Boil gently until the chicken is tender, 1£ or 2^
hours, according to age. Place the chicken in the centre of
a dish with the rice around. Make a rich Tomato Sauce
(see receipt) and pour over the chicken. Macaroni may be
substituted for the rice.


CHICKEN pAt£ JELLIED.
CHICKEN PATE JELLIED.
191
PAIN DE VOLAILLE.
j£ cold boiled chicken, chopped very fine,
4 sausages, chopped very fine,
Grated bread-crumbs,
Pepper and salt,
Salt pork,
3 eggs,
Nutmeg,
Lemon-juice.
1 gill of wine, white or red.
Remove the chicken from the bone ; remove the skins of the
sausages, and chop both as fine as paste. Use an Enterprise
Chopper if you have it. The bulk of bread-crumbs should
equal that of the chicken, as should also the bulk of sausage
meat, that is, about \ of each. Mix all well together; add
the seasonings to taste. Meanwhile boil in a saucepan the
bones of the chicken, covered with boiling water, 2 cloves of
garlic, 3 cloves, and 6 allspice. When it has boiled long
enough to be well flavored, about 30 minutes, use some of
the water to moisten the pate\ Lastly, add the wine and
eggs; mix thoroughly. Line a tin mould with straight sides
with thin slices of salt pork, covering every part of the sur-
face. Pour in the mixture; cover also with thin slices of
pork. Tie over the top a well-buttered paper, and put in a
very moderate oven for about 1 hour, or a little longer, until
set perfectly firm. The oven must neither be too quick, or
the loaf will crack, nor to slow, or the loaf will be dried out.
When done, set away to cool. When cold, turn out of the
mould, remove the slices of pork, and serve surrounded with
jelly. Or, having rinsed the same mould in cold water, fill it
to the depth of a £ inch with jelly (use jelly as directed
for Jellied Tongue). When this is firm, set in the pate; fill
the remaining space between the pate and sides of the mould
with the liquid jelly, and set away to harden. Pour some of
the same jelly into a shallow dish and set away also. When
ready to serve, turn the jellied pate out carefully, crumb the
the jelly in the shallow dish with a fork, arrange it tastefully
around the base of the pate, and serve. Decorate and gar-
nish to taste. Recommended.


192
GOOD-LIVING.
CHICKEN CROQUETTES NO. I.
CROQUETTES DE VOLAILLE I.
2 chickens, boiled,
1 pair of brains, boiled,
1 cup of chopped suet,
I lemon, juice and grated rind,
1 nutmeg, grated,
Salt,
2 sprigs of parsley, chopped,
I small tablespoon of grated onion,
Cream, or same quantity of White Sauce, Black pepper and cayenne.
Chop or grind the meat as fine as possible (use Enterprise
Chopper if you have it); mix all well together and add
enough cream or thick White Sauce (see receipt) to make it
quite soft. The white sauce is best, as it hardens when cold,
enabling you to mould the croquettes much more easily.
When subjected to the heat of frying it becomes soft and
creamy again. After making the croquettes a few times you
will ascertain by experience exactly how the mixture should
feel to the touch. To mould the croquettes into shape when
the mixture is cold, have on the table by you a plate of
flour, a saucer of beaten egg, and a deep bowl of sifted
bread-crumbs. Flour your hands well; take a tablespoonful
of the meat, roll it between the palms of your hands, and
shape evenly and neatly. Do not make them too narrow for
their length or they may break in frying: say 1 x 2\ inches.
Dip them first in the egg, then in the crumbs, keeping them
well shaped, covering with just as much crumb as they will
take up. Then place on a flat dish, separate from one
another that the air may reach all parts. Set away in the
ice-box for at least 1 hour. Use only 1 hand for the
bread-crumbs, if possible, and 1 for the eggs, or you will
soon find yourself with thimbles of dipping on all 10
fingers. This amount of croquette-meat will make about 24
medium-sized croquettes. When ready to cook them, have
deep lard boiling in a kettle. Use a frying-basket. Lay the
croquettes in the basket and proceed as directed in General
Directions for Frying. When golden brown, skim out and
lay on a clean piece of paper in the mouth of the oven to
dry. When dry, dish tastefully on a cut paper or folded


JELLIED CHICKEN.
193
napkin. Garnish with a large bunch of Fried Parsley (see
receipt).
N. B.—Boil the brains previously as directed (see receipt).
The croquettes should be as soft as thick cream in the inside
when served, with a delicate gold-colored covering outside.
PLAIN CHICKEN CROQUETTES NO. II.
CROQUETTES DE VOLAILLE II.
^ pounds of cold chicken, chopped fine, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley,
y2 pound of mashed potatoes, 2 ounces of butter,
2 tablespoons of cream, I egg,
Pepper, salt, Nutmeg.
Mix well, form into balls, dip in egg and bread-crumbs (see
Chicken Croquettes), and fry in boiling lard (see General
Directions for Frying). Excellent.
JELLIED CHICKEN.
CHAUD-FROID DE VOLAILLE.
Boil a fowl in just water enough to cover it; add to it 1
clove of garlic, 4 cloves, 6 allspice, £ teaspoon of salt, and I
bay-leaf. Boil until the meat is ready to fall from the
bones. Pick off the meat; chop very fine (use Enterprise
Chopper if you have it), and season with salt and pepper.
Rinse out a smooth mould in cold water. Lay in the bottom
some slices of cold hard-boiled egg, then a layer of the
chopped chicken, another layer of egg, another of chicken,
and so on until the mould is filled. Boil down the broth of
the chicken to about 3 gills; strain; season with pepper, salt,
and cayenne if necessary; pour over the chicken. Set away
in a cold place for several hours until firm, then turn it out
and serve with salad. This is a good dish for tea. Or, when
the liquor is ready to pour over the chicken, let it cool, and
add to about 2 gills of it the same quantity of rich Mayon-
naise Sauce (see receipt). Fill the mould with this mixed
with chicken; set away to harden; turn out and serve with
a salad.
13


194 GOOD-LIVING.
DEVILLED CHICKEN.
POULET A LA DIABLE.
The chicken must be boiled tender in salted water. When
cold, cut in even pieces; dip into melted butter and broil.
Sauce for same:
I teaspoon of made mustard, 2 tablespoons of Worcestershire sauce,
3 tablespoons of vinegar.
Bring to a boil together and pour over the chicken. Any
pieces of cold chicken may be used for this dish, but must
not be cut too small.
CHICKEN JELLY.
Having made a good Chicken Consomme (see receipt),
let it stand until cold; remove all fat, and to 1 quart of this
add:
The pared rind and juice of I lemon, I pinch of cayenne,
2 even teaspoons of salt, Whites and crushed shells of 2 eggs.
Beat the whites sufficiently to mix them, but not to a
froth; mix all well together; heat it slowly; let it boil
briskly for 10 minutes; set on the hearth 5 minutes to
settle, then pour it through a jelly-bag. Do not squeeze the
bag. Rinse a bowl or mould in cold water; pour the.jelly
in, and set away to harden. If the consomme has not
jellied when cold before clearing it, it should be boiled down
at least \; or else, melt gelatine in a little cold consomme,
allowing 1 box of gelatine to 3 pints of jelly. Stir it into
the boiling jelly with the whites of eggs. Strain as above.
This will insure a firm jelly.
CHICKEN WITH TOMATOES.
POULET FARCI AUX TOMATES.
Having cleaned a fine, young, roasting-chicken, fill it with
a Ham Force-meat (see receipts). Truss, and lay it in a


CHICKEN A LA TERRAPIN.
195
roasting-pan with 6 tablespoons of sweet oil, pinch of salt,
and juice of 1 lemon. Baste frequently, allowing about 15
minutes to the pound in a moderate oven (see directions
for Roast Chicken). Have ready a rich Tomato Sauce (see
receipt). Dish the chicken; pour the tomato sauce into the
pan with the oil, etc., that remains from the roasting; boil
down rapidly for 3 or 4 minutes, and pour over the chicken.
Spanish receipt.
BOILED CHICKEN WITH WHITE SAUCE.
POULET AU BLANC.
Singe, clean, and truss a fowl whole, as directed for roast-
ing. Put it into a saucepan with cold water to cover. Add
the same seasoning as for Fricassee of Chicken, and finish
the sauce exactly according to same receipt. The fowl will
require from 1 hour and 30 minutes to 3 hours, according to
age and toughness. The older it is, the more gently it should
be simmered. Pour some of the sauce over the fowl. Serve
the rest in a sauce-boat.
CHICKEN WITH TARRAGON SAUCE.
POULET A L'ESTRAGON.
Prepare exactly as directed above, adding to the sauce a
few small sprigs of fresh tarragon about 10 minutes before
serving. Pour some of the sauce over the fowl, and serve
the rest in a sauce-boat.
CHICKEN A LA TERRAPIN.
Cut cold boiled chicken in 1 inch dice. Make a Terrapin
Sauce (see receipt). Put the chicken in the sauce, and set
away for at least 6 hours, if possible. When required, warm
the chicken in a bowl over a vessel of boiling water ( bain-
marie). It will take at least 30 minutes to heat, and must
not boil.


196 GOOD-LIVING.
COCK-A-LEEKIE.
POULE AU RIZ.
I fowl, 1 cup of rice,
6 leeks, Flour,
I bay-leaf, Butter,
Salt, ^ inch piece of red-pepper pod.
Draw, clean, and truss a fowl as for roasting (see direc-
tions). Put it into an iron pot. Cover with cold water.
Add the leeks, pepper-pod (without seeds), bay-leaf, and salt.
Cover. Bring to a boil, then set where it will simmer gently
for 1 hour. Then add the rice, well washed, and boil stead-
ily, but gently, for 1 hour longer. Dish the fowl. Strain
out the rice and leeks and heap around the fowl. Return
the broth to the fire. Now blend together over the fire
about 1 tablespoonful each of flour and butter; do not
brown. Stir in enough of the boiling chicken-broth to
make the sauce as thick as rich cream. Pour this over the
fowl. Garnish and serve. Should the fowl be very tough,
allow 15 to 30 minutes longer cooking before adding the rice.
TO ROAST A TURKEY.
DINDE ROTIE.
Clean and prepare the turkey as directed, trussing it ac-
cording to Directions for Trussing a Fowl. A young hen-
turkey is best for roasting. Before trussing it, fill the craw
with any of the Dressings (see receipts) you may fancy;
chestnut stuffing is highly recommended, if obtainable. It
is generally advisable not to stuff the body unless the dress-
ing selected is very moist and not too high-flavored, which
would take away from the delicate quality of the bird itself.
However, that is a matter of taste; but it is urged that the
body should not be filled with any dry stuffing, or the ju1ces
of the bird will be absorbed by it and the meat greatly
injured in quality. It is recommended to put into the body
of the turkey its own liver and a large spoonful of butter.


TURKE y-chick.
197
After the turkey is trussed, dredge thoroughly with flour,
rubbing it in with the hand. Set it in the roasting-pan;
put 2 large tablespoonfuls of butter and about 4 tablespoon-
fuls of boiling water in the pan; set the pan in the oven (un-
less you are equipped for roasting before the fire in the good,
old-fashioned way). The oven must be moderate. A second
pan should be placed over the turkey to prevent the breast-
bone from browning and perhaps burning, before the turkey
is thoroughly done. Baste very frequently, and watch with
a most solicitous and careful eye that the fire is not
hot enough to burn, or cool enough to dry out the
turkey. One weighing, before cleaning, about 8 pounds,
should be allowed 1 hour and 30 to 45 minutes, or rather
more than 10 minutes per pound. A very large turkey, not
less than 3 hours. When nearly done, remove the top pan
and baste again, until well-browned all over. Then take the
turkey from the pan; set the pan on the top of the range;
add a small pinch of flour, a little boiling water, and stir;
add the giblets and liver (previously boiled), the former
chopped, the latter mashed. Stir 2 or 3 minutes; add salt
and pepper and serve in a sauce-boat. Garnish tne turkey
with cresses or parsley.
N.B.—If your turkey is not young and tender, do not
attempt to roast it. In that case, cook it according to re-
ceipt for Plain Braise, Turkey En Daube or Boiled Turkey
(see receipts).
TURKEY-CHICK.
DINDONNEAU.
This is a most dainty and delicate dish. The turkeys
should weigh from 2 to 3, or at most 3£ lbs. They are then
in perfection. Split one "down the back, after having
cleaned it as directed (see Directions for Cleaning Poul-
try). Spread it open, exactly as a chicken for broiling.
Rub it all over with butter; lay it in a roasting-pan; put 2
tablespoonfuls of butter in small bits over it, and about


GOOD-LIVING.
3 tablespoonfuls of boiling water in the pan. Cover it with
another pan that will fit it air-tight, to keep in the steam.
Place this in a moderately-quick oven. Baste it occasion-
ally, closing again tightly and quickly. It will take from 45
to 60 minutes. When cooked, dish it; pour the butter from
the pan over it; sprinkle with salt and pepper; garnish with
cresses or parsley, and serve either with Cucumber Salad,
Celery Mayonnaise, or with a mayonnaise of tomatoes, espe-
cially if the latter are from the hot-house, or Primeurs. If
served as an entree, instead of taking the place of game
or roast at dinner, it is excellent with Chestnut Sauce (see
receipt), but is best as first indicated. In Europe this is
considered a great delicacy, but is not as yet sufficiently
known or appreciated in this country.
Clean and dress your turkey, which should not be too
young, or it will go to pieces before being properly cooked.
If liked, lard the breast with strips of salt pork, salt, pepper,
parsley, chervil, and thyme; but this may be omitted. Fill
the craw with one of the various Dressings (see receipts).
Sew up and truss as directed. Lay in the bottom of a deep,
large iron pot slices of fat pork, the calf's foot, salt, pepper,
onions, carrots, herbs, etc. On this bed, lay the turkey.
Pour over it the broth, brandy, and white wine. Cover.
Wring out a clean cloth in hot water, and twist it around
the lid to prevent the escape of steam. Simmer very slowly
TURKE Y EN DA UBE.
DINDE EN DAUBE.
Large hen-turkey, not too young.
Bunch of parsley,
Bunch of thyme,
Bunch of celery leaves,
Chervil,
Bouquet of sweet herbs,
6 gills of broth,
I bay-leaf,
Slice of salt pork,
Half calf's foot,
2 onions, sliced,
2 carrots,"
10 cloves,
1 clove of garlic,
2 tablespoons of brandy,
1 pint of white wine.
Pepper and salt.


ROAST TURKEY WITH TRUFFLES.
I99
for fully 5 hours, or more, if old, turning it once with great
care when about half cooked. When done, lift the turkey
out upon a hot dish; skim and strain the sauce; pour some
over the turkey, serve the rest in a sauce-boat. When set
away to cool, put the turkey in a large bowl; pour all of its
sauce around, and it will become jellied. This, although
apparently an elaborate dish, is, in fact, perfectly practicable,
and the result is, a Christmas turkey fit for a king.
BOILED TURKEY.
DINDE, SAUCE BLANCHE.
Select by preference a hen-turkey. Draw it carefully (see
directions). Rinse it out with cold water and a pinch of
baking-soda. Wipe dry. Truss it (see directions). Stuff
the craw with a dressing of oysters (see Force-meats), with
celery cut in £-inch pieces added to the force-meat. Rub
the bird all over with lemon-juice, to whiten the skin, and
lay it in boiling water; or, better still, flour a cloth and tie
the turkey in it. Boil very slowly, allowing 15 to 20 minutes
to the pound. The older and tougher the turkey, the more
gently it must cook, and the longer; then it will not be
stringy. Serve with Oyster and Celery Sauce (see receipts').
Miss Leslie says: "With a turkey (boiled) there should be
on table a ham or a smoked tongue." This is an old-
fashioned custom, and one which we cannot improve upon.
If not boiled in a cloth, the broth from the turkey will make
an excellent soup next day, boiled down with rice, vege-
tables, and seasonings.
A dressing of Sausage Force-meat may be substituted for
the above, if preferred.
ROAST TURKEY WITH TRUFFLES.
DINDE TRUFFEE.
For this, select a fresh, young hen-turkey. Singe and
draw as directed. Cut 1 pound of lean ham into dice; set


too
GOOD-LIVING.
it over the fire in a saucepan ; when hot, add 2 pounds of fresh
truffles (the very best to be had), { of a nutmeg, \ of a tea-
spoonful of white pepper, and I bay-leaf; stir over the fire
for 15 minutes, and set away to cool. When cold, put 2
tablespoonfuls of the mixture into the craw of the turkey;
put the remainder into the body of the turkey. Sew it up.
Truss, and hang it in a cool, dry place for about 5 days in
winter; in warmer weather, 2 days. Roast as directed for
Roast Turkey, and serve with Truffle or Madeira Sauce.
ROAST TURKEY WITH MUSHROOMS.
DINDE ROTIE AUX CHAMPIGNONS.
Proceed exactly as for Roast Turkey with Truffles, (see
above), substituting mushrooms.
ROAST CAPON.
CHAPON ROTI.
Proceed exactly as directed for Roast Chicken (see re-
ceipt); serving on a bed of water-cresses, with the plain
pan-gravy strained in a boat.
CAPON WITH TRUFFLES.
CHAPON TRUFFE.
Proceed exactly as for Roast Turkey with Truffles (see
receipt).
GUINEA-FOWL.
PINTADE ROTIE.
This is a bird which seems to be but little known or appre-
ciated in this country, whereas " Pintade Rotie " is almost
as familiar on the Continental menu as is "Poulet Roti,"
and very certainly appears often under the guise of other
game. A young, tender guinea-fowl is not to be despised.
The marks by which the younger ones are known are that


ROAST GOOSE.
the breast bone is pliant at the tip, the wings very tender,
and the legs smooth, free from feathers, and of a pale-yellow
color. When well selected and well cooked, they are not
very inferior to pheasants and partridges. They may be
roasted (see Roast Chicken); but it is recommended that
they be cooked according to either of the following receipts.
BROILED GUINEA-FOWL.
PINTADE GRILLEE.
If very young and tender, singe, draw, split, and broil as
directed for Broiled Chicken. Serve on a bed of water-
cresses, with a salad.
BRAISED GUINEA-FOWL.
PINTADE BRAISEE.
Proceed exactly as directed for a Plain Braise, using 2
carrots and 2 onions sliced and fried brown, and the gravy
thickened with a roux of browned butter and flour. They
should be trussed as for roasting, and not stuffed. Cook
them very slowly and gently for about 1 hour and 15 min-
utes, if young and tender; longer, if old and tough. When
done, remove them to a hot dish; place the carrots around
the birds; strain the gravy; pour some of it over the birds,
and serve the rest in a sauce-boat.
Or, omit the thickening, and do not serve the carrots, but
garnish with water-cresses and serve as a roast with a salad.
ROAST GOOSE.
OIE R&TIE.
This is a most savory dish, provided your goose be a ten-
der one; therefore it is essential to make sure of this fact
before beginning. This is readily ascertained by one who
has the habit of drawing poultry. In selecting it, see that
the end of the breast bone yields easily to pressure; that


2o2
GOOD-LIVWG.
the wings are supple and very tender at the pinion; that the
legs are smooth and yellow and free from feathers. A
"green goose " is most desirable for roasting, if you can get
it. If there is any doubt about the tenderness of your
goose, do not attempt to roast it; braise it according to the
receipt for Plain Braise, and you can serve it with all the
appearance of being roasted, and at the same time ensure
its being good eating.
Draw, singe, and wipe out the bird, but do not wash it if
it can be avoided; have it as sweet and clean as possible.
If not perfectly sweet, you may rinse it out quickly with a
quart of cold water in which is dissolved I teaspoonful of
baking-soda. Make a dressing. Unless you prefer some
other, the following is a good one:
4 apples, peeled and cored, ^ teaspoon of thyme,
4 onions, sliced, Mashed potato,
4 leaves of sage, Pepper and salt.
Boil the apples, onions, and herbs with sufficient water to
cover them; when soft, rub all through a sieve; add enough
mashed potato to make it sufficiently firm for a dressing, but
not dry enough to stick to the hands. Season with pepper
and salt, and stuff the bird, both craw and body. Sew it
up. Truss it (see directions). Tie and skewer it firmly.
Put it into a roasting-pan with a large lump of butter or
sweet drippings and about 3 tablespoonfuls of boiling water.
Rub the breast of the goose well with butter; sprinkle with
salt and pepper. Baste very frequently, every 10 or 15
minutes, and each time thoroughly. Roast about 1 hour
and 30 minutes. Watch the oven, that your goose may not
cook too quickly or get over-done. If in danger of brown-
ing too much, cover it with a second pan and turn some of
the heat off from the oven. If the goose is not at the young-
est, or " green," stage, you must cover it from the beginning,
roast it longer, and with more moderate fire, basting very
often and browning at the last. The time given allows for
a good-sized bird.


SALMI OF TAME DUCK.
Sauce: Boil the giblets apart; chop the gizzards and mash
the liver. When the goose is cooked, remove it from the
pan to a hot dish. Remove strings and skewers. Set the
pan on the top of the range; add a little boiling water; stir;
blend a teaspoonful of corn-starch with a little cold water;
stir it into the boiling gravy; add the giblets, etc., salt, pep-
per, and boil 3 minutes. Serve in a sauce-boat. Garnish
the goose with water-cresses, and serve with Apple Sauce
(see receipt).
TAME DUCK.
CANARDS R6TIS.
Proceed exactly as for Roast Goose (see receipt), stuffing
with sage and onion dressing. The same remarks apply as
to their tenderness; if you are not perfectly certain of it, do
not risk roasting, but prepare them according to receipt for
Plain Braise. If roasted, allow 1 hour for large ones; baste
frequently. They require to be cooked much longer than
wild ducks. Serve with giblet sauce, if liked; otherwise,
with the plain pan-gravy in a sauce-boat. Serve with green
peas, spinach, or a salad. Apple sauce or currant jelly may
be handed at the same time. A very savory accompaniment
1s Onion or Soubise Sauce (see receipt).
SALMI OF TAME DUCK.
SALMI DE CANARD.
Cut cold duck into neat pieces. Put the giblets into a
saucepan with the amount of hot water you will require for
the sauce, more or less according to the quantity of duck.
Add to it 2 onions, 2 sprigs of parsley, both chopped fine,
3 cloves, I leaf of sage, pepper and salt. Cover, and let the
sauce simmer for about 1 hour, until well flavored. Add the
pieces of duck; let them stew slowly for 2 hours, adding a
little more boiling water if necessary. Just before it is done,
add 1 gill of port wine and a little lemon-juice. Blend a tea-
spoonful of corn-starch with a little cold water; stir it into


GOOD-LIVING.
the boiling sauce, and boil 2 minutes; or thicken with a
Brown Roux (see receipt). Arrange the duck neatly on a
hot dish; pour the gravy over, and garnish the edge with
large, diamond-shaped Croutons (see receipt). Or make a
Rice Border (see receipt), and serve with the stew in the
centre.'
The quantity of corn-starch required depends upon the
amount of sauce to be thickened, 1 large teaspoonful being
sufficient to thicken I pint of sauCe. A few handfuls of
fresh green peas boiled first, may be added to the stew 10 or
15 minutes before it is served; or add a handful of stoned
olives.
DUCK SA UT£ WITH GREEN PEAS.
CANARD SAUT6 AUX PETITS POIS.
Proceed exactly as for Chicken Saute with Green Peas
(see receipt).
TAME DUCK BRAISED.
CANARD BRAISE.
Select a large Muscovy duck; clean, truss, and stuff with
potato and onions (see Roast Goose). Cook according to
receipt for Plain Braise. Recommended.



GAME.
WILD DUCKS.
CANARDS SAUVAGES.
These should always be plain roasted the first day, and
under no circumstances should they be stuffed. Of course
canvas-backs stand at the head of the list, but red-heads
are undoubtedly second. It sometimes happens that the
more ordinary kinds of ducks, though they may be of the
tenderest, have a most unpleasantly strong flavor. It is said
that a parboiled onion placed in the body of one of this
kind, will frequently absorb the strong, disagreeable quality
and make the duck very acceptable, if its skin is not eaten;
this also contributes to its rankness. In case the onion sys-
tem is tried, the reader is warned that it must be removed
most carefully as soon as the duck is taken from the fire.
Have at hand a bowl of cold water, and the instant the
onion is taken out of the duck, plunge it under the water, and
take it away as quickly as possible, for in its turn it becomes
most offensive.
If the ducks are of the choicest kind, leave the heads on,
and when plucked, singed, drawn, truss them with the head
under the wing. Tie the legs together to keep them from
spreading, and cut the wings off close to the body; a duck-
wing never being served, and often proving a sad stumbling-
block to the carver. In cleaning ducks, avoid washing them;
simply wipe them out with a wet cloth and dry them imme-
diately. The fire should be in good order, and the oven
205


2o6 GOOD-LIVING.
fiercely hot. Put the ducks both (if of the same size) in the
roasting-pan, unless you are fortunate enough to be able to
roast them before the fire; put a large lump of butter in the
pan, with 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of boiling water. Rub the
breasts of the ducks with butter. Now put the ducks in the
oven; if your fire is right, they will be done to a turn in 15
minutes, if of medium size. Baste frequently. As a rule
there is often I duck of the pair a little larger than the other;
in this case, the larger duck must be put in the pan in the
oven alone, first, for 3 to 5 minutes, according to the differ-
ence in size; then add in the smaller duck and cook 15
minutes. This time is exact (if the fire is right) for ducks
the size of canvas-backs and red-heads. If much larger,
allow 20 minutes or more. The epicure is much shocked if
wild duck is cooked beyond the point of the blood running
red when pierced with a fork in carving. Be sure the plates
on which they are to be served are put to heat long enough
beforehand to get them very hot. Better far let the guest
wait a minute or two for the ducks than to allow the ducks
to wait for the guest. Carve the ducks in thick slabs, not in
thin, wafery slices, as is too often seen. The perfect way of
serving ducks (when they are the dish par excellence, as, for
instance, at a game supper), is to allow half a duck to each
guest, and serve it on a hot-water plate. In the land of
ducks the dish is frequently garnished with small croquettes
of fried hominy. The usual mode of serving is to hand at
the same time currant jelly and dressed celery.
SALMI OF WILD DUCK WITH OLIVES.
SALMI DE CANARD AUX OLIVES.
The next day, take the legs, wings, and all the good parts
of the ducks that remain; cut them into neatly-shaped pieces
and make thereof a tasty brown stew; that is, rub together
over the fire until brown 1 tablespoonful each of butter and
flour; add by degrees 3£ gills of good broth, and stir until
smooth. Boil until sufficiently thick; season with salt, pep-


WOODCOCK AND SNIPE.
207
per; lay in the pieces of duck, and set on one side to warm,
and stew gently for 30 to 45 minutes; add wine to taste and
a few olives cut from the stones. Garnish with diamond-
shaped Croutons (see receipt).
WILD DUCK WITH JELLY SAUCE.
Cut pieces of cold wild duck evenly; warm them slowly
in a sauce made of 1 large tablespoonful of butter, \ a
tumbler of currant jelly, and 1 gill of port wine.
ROAST GROUSE.
Prepare exactly the same as partridge, allowing less time
for the cooking; being dark-fleshed game, they should be
served underdone. If the oven is just right, they will
require about 25 minutes, or a little more according to size.
When sufficiently cooked, the meat should feel quite elastic
under pressure of the fork. They must never be thoroughly
cooked through. Serve the sauce from the pan in a sauce-
boat. Dish the grouse on slices of toast moistened with
broth and buttered; garnish with water-cresses, or with
Fried Breadcrumbs (see receipt) and parsley. Serve with a
salad.
BROILED GROUSE.
If the grouse are young and tender, broil according to
either receipt given for Broiled Partridge, cooking 10 or 15
minutes less. Garnish with cresses and serve with a salad.
WOODCOCK AND SNIPE.
b£casses et b£cass1nes sautees.
Pluck and clean, but never draw either of these birds if
you are preparing them for epicures; to have the birds
served without the trail would be quite shocking, in their
judgment. The heads should also remain on. Pluck the
neck and skin the head carefully. Twist the neck around


2o8
dOOD-LIVMG.
and run the beak through legs and body; this rounds out
the breast. Have a deep pan with lard enough to com-
pletely immerse the birds. When you are certain that it is
boiling (see General Directions for Frying), lay the birds in
and leave them from 3 to 5 minutes, according to their size;
for these same epicures decree that the birds must be served
very underdone. Prepare a slice of toast for each moistened
with butter and broth. Place a bird on each slice of toast
and serve with a salad.
WOODCOCK AND SNIPE ROASTED NO. I.
BECASSES ET BECASSINES ROTIES I.
Do not draw these birds; otherwise proceed exactly as
for roasting quail. Allow about \ the length of time to
cook, as they should be served very underdone. Each bird
should be rolled, when trussed, in a thin slice of fat pork,
not bacon; lay each one in the roasting-pan on a piece of
toast, which piece of toast, absorbing all the juices that fall
from the bird in cooking, must be served under it. Remove
the pork. Garnish with water-cresses; serve with a salad.
Hand at the same time currant jelly. This latter is a matter
of taste.
ROASTED WOODCOCK NO. II.
b£casse rot1e 11.
Carefully pluck; skin the neck and head. Truss with the
head under the wing. Bend the legs back at the first joint,
pressing the feet up against the thigh. Do not draw them.
Tie a strip of pork around each; run a small iron skewer
through the birds and tie it to the spit, if you can roast be-
fore the fire, otherwise put them on a roasting-pan in the
oven. Have a fiercely hot fire. Place the roasting-pan, with
slices of buttered toast, beneath to catch whatever falls from
the birds in cooking. Baste with melted butter. Roast
from 12 to 15 minutes; then sprinkle the birds with salt and
pepper, and serve on the toast. Garnish with cresses. Serv«
with a salad.


Partridges broiled jvo i.
209
Snipe may be treated in the same manner, as also all small
birds, such as larks, etc., etc.
REED-BIRDS.
ORTOLANS.
As a rule, never draw these birds; cook them with the trail
in. Simply pick, wash, clean, and quickly wipe them; truss
neatly, and lay in boiling lard for 3 to 5 minutes. Serve
very hot on toast. Serve at the same time a salad.
REED-BIRDS BROILED.
ORTOLANS GRILLES.
This is an exception to the above rule, for the birds must
be drawn. When clean, split; place them in the folds of a
clean towel, and, with the rolling-pin, crush the bones quite
flat. Season with salt and pepper; spread on a very hot
greased broiler. Broil them over a clear fire, turning the
inner side toward the fire; in a minute or two, turn. Con.
tinue to turn until browned outside. The fire must be very
quick that the outside may sear without cooking the inside
too much. They will not require more than 4 or 5 minutes,
as reed-birds are always served under-done. Serve on soft,
buttered toast; put a little salt and pepper and melted butter
on each. Garnish with cresses and serve with a salad.
PLOVER.
PLUVIER.
Prepare according to any of the receipts for reed-birds or
snipe, leaving the trail in, and serving on toast. Like all dark-
fleshed game, they should be served very under-done.
PARTRIDGES BROILED NO. I.
PERDRIX GRILLEES I.
Pluck and draw; split, and wipe inside and out with a wet
cloth; do not wash them if it can be avoided. Spread open
14


210
GOOD-LIVING.
like a broiled chicken, keeping in place by a skewer run
through the wings and body. Have a clear, hot fire. Heat
the gridiron first. Grease it well. Lay the bird on the grid-
iron with the inner (or bone) side toward the coals. Broil
the bird under, not over the fire, if possible. Now rub the
breast all over with butter; place a pan under the gridiron to
receive all the butter and juice that may drop in the cooking.
Turn the bird from time to time, leaving it at least twice as
long with the inner side toward the blaze. Each time you
turn it, brush it with melted butter. It will require to cook
about 25 minutes. Being white-fleshed game, partridges re-
quire to be thoroughly cooked through, and, as their one
fault is dryness, they must be constantly basted and carefully
watched, that they do not scorch or get over-done. Have
ready slices of buttered toast. Trim the crust from the edges
and moisten with the butter from the pan. Lay the bird on
the toast; put a little melted butter on the breast; sprinkle
with pepper and salt. Serve with a salad.
PARTRIDGES BROILED NO. II.
PERDRIX GRILLEES II.
Split and prepare as above; lay in a tin pan with slices of
pork over the breasts; put butter the size of a walnut, pepper
and salt, and about 2 tablespoonfuls of boiling water in the
pan. Cover air-tight to keep the steam in. Set in the oven.
Baste frequently. They will require 20 to 30 minutes ac-
cording to the heat of the oven. When sufficiently cooked,
the flesh should feel quite firm under pressure of the fork.
Do not pierce the skin with the fork or the juices will escape;
simply press with the flat side of it, and you will easily ascer-
tain when it is cooked. The softer the flesh is, the more
under-done. Garnish with cresses and serve as directed in
preceding receipt. This last way of cooking partridges has
the advantage of making them very juicy. If you wish to
give the appearance to the bird of having been broiled, heat
the gridiron very hot, and, when you remove the partridge


PARTRIDGES AUX CHOUX.
211
from the pan, lay it with the breast against the bars for a few
seconds. The hot gridiron will mark the breast in lines, as if
it had been broiled. Serve with salad.
Pluck, draw, clean, wipe inside and out with a wet cloth,
but do not wash, if it can be avoided. Truss, passing a
wooden skewer through the thighs, another through the
wings. Fasten a slice of pork over the breast of each. Put
into a baking-pan with tablespoonful of butter, and 2 of boil-
ing water or 1 gill of white wine. Baste frequently, and
roast about 40 minutes. The oven must not be too hot. Re-
move strings and skewers; stand the partridges on buttered
toast on a hot dish. Add to the pan 2 gills of good con-
somme or broth; boil up, strain, and pour over the birds.
Garnish with water-cresses and serve with a salad.
PARTRIDGES JELLIED.
PERDRIX EN GELEE.
See Quail en Compote.
ROAST PARTRIDGES.
PERDRIX ROTIES.
PARTRIDGES AUX CHOUX.
PERDRIX AUX CHOUX.
3 partridges,
2 smoked sausages,
Salt pork,
Salt,
% pound of bacon,
I cabbage,
Consomme or broth,
Pepper.
Tie together:
I carrot, cut in half,
4 cloves, stuck in the onion,
3 sprigs of thyme,
I onion,
Small bunch of parsley,
I clove of garlic.
Clean and truss the partridges as directed; put them in a
saucepan with the bacon cut in slices, the sausages, carrot,
onion, herbs, and seasonings. Cover the partridges with


212
GOOD-LIVING.
slices of salt pork. Scald the cabbage in boiling water on the
fire for 15 minutes; put it for a moment in cold water; then
drain it perfectly dry. Lay it on top of the partridges and
cover again with strips of salt pork. Pour over sufficient
broth or consomme to cover all. Simmer very gently for 2
hours, closely covered. Lift out the cabbage; drain a mo-
ment and lay in the bottom of a hot dish. Upon this place
the partridges; arrange around them the sausages and bacon.
Let the gravy boil down briskly, uncovered, for a few minutes,
then strain some of it over the partridges. Perdrix aux
Choux is quite a classical dish among the French.
BROILED QUAIL.
CAILLES GRILLEES.
Pluck, clean, and split the birds, wiping with a damp cloth,
not washing. Heat the gridiron. Lay the birds upon it
with the under, or bone, side toward the coals. Rub the
breasts with butter. Broil for about 8 minutes; then turn the
breast side toward the fire and broil about 5 minutes more,
13 to 15 minutes in all. Do not let them scorch or dry too
much. Have ready a piece of toast for each bird. Trim off
the crusts; moisten with a few drops of boiling broth, and
butter the toast generously. Lay the birds upon the toast;
butter the breasts; sprinkle with pepper and salt. Set in the
oven 1 minute for the butter to melt. Garnish with cresses
and serve with a salad.
ROASTED QUAIL.
CAILLES R6TIES.
Clean, draw, and truss neatly. Tic a piece of fat pork
over the breast of each bird. Put the birds in a baking-pan
with 1 tablespoonful of butter and 2 of boiling water.
Stand the pan in the oven for 15 to 20 minutes, according
to the size of the birds and heat of the oven, basting fre-
quently with hot butter from the pan. Have ready a piece


QUAILS EN COMPOTE (COLD).
213
of toast for each bird; remove the crust; moisten with
boiling broth and butter. Remove the pork from the birds;
stand them upon the toast; add salt and pepper; garnish
with cresses and serve with a salad.
QUAIL SAUT£ IN LARD.
CAILLES SAUTEES.
Quail done in this way have all the appearance of being
roasted, and at the same time preserve all their juices.
These being inclined to be rather dry birds, this mode 01
cooking appears to be one of the best.
Pluck, draw, and truss the birds neatly, wiping them
inside and out with a wet cloth, but not washing them,
Tie the legs and wings close to the sides; or skewer them
with small wooden tooth-picks, which serve admirably for
the purpose. Run one through the two wings and body;
another through the two legs and body; thus pinning them
dose to the sides. Have a pan with lard deeper than
the height of the birds, so that they may be completely
immersed in the fat. Bring it slowly to boiling point (see
General Directions for Frying). When the lard is ready,
lay the birds in with the skimmer. Do not put in more
at a time than you can attend to well. They must be
turned constantly, that they may cook and brown evenly.
In about 8 minutes, if the heat is intense enough, the
birds will be done. You can ascertain this by pressing the
breast with the flat side of the fork; if perfectly firm, the
bird is cooked. Drain thoroughly and serve on toast, as
directed for Roast Quail. The birds should not be darker
than golden brown when well cooked. Garnish and serve
with a salad.
QUAILS EN COMPOTE (COLD).
CAILLES EN GELEE.
This is another excellent mode of preparing these popular
birds; a good dish for luncheon, to be served cold.


214
GOOD-LIVING.
6 quail,
4 cloves,
I clove of garlic,
lady-finger pepper without seeds,
Bunch of parsley and celery.
Broth,
I bay-leaf,
8 allspice,
I sprig of thyme,
Salt, and salt pork.
Pluck, draw, and clean the birds, wiping with a wet cloth,
not washing. Tie a piece of salt pork over the breast of
each one, and truss it as described in Quail Saute, using
wooden tooth-picks. Lay the birds, breast upward, in a sauce-
pan with all the seasonings; cover with strong, well-flavored
broth or consomme. Cover closely, and simmer very gently
until the birds are very tender, but be careful not to let
them go to pieces. This will take from 45 minutes to I
hour, according to the quality of the birds. When cooked,
take them out carefully with the skimmer; remove the pork;
lay them in a deep bowl and cover the bowl with a plate.
Boil down the broth until there is just about enough to cover
the birds in the bowl. Strain it. Add salt and pepper, if
necessary; pour it over the birds and set away to get cold.
If any broth remains, pour it into a shallow dish and set
away to harden. When the jelly has hardened, take the
birds out of the bowl separately with whatever jelly may
cling to them. Dish them in a pyramid; heap the jelly and
that in the extra dish over them; it should be crumbed with
a fork, if quite firm. Garnish with sprigs of parsley and
sliced lemon. Serve with a salad. This is really a most
delicious dish, pleasing to both eye and palate, and so easy
to make that it is. strange it is not more often used to take
the place of the conventional roast quail, whose only varia-
tion is that it is sometimes well and sometimes ill-cooked.
Partridges may also be prepared as above.
SQUABS OR PIGEONS ROASTED.
PIGEONS ROTIS.
For this purpose, squabs are best. If you use full-grown
pigeons, be careful to select only tender ones.


SQUABS OR PIGEONS BROILED.
215
Pluck, draw, and clean, wiping with a wet cloth, not wash-
ing them. Truss neatly, using wooden tooth-picks to skewer
the wings and legs in place: one passed through the two wings
and body, another passed through the two legs and body.
If the pigeons are too large for this, tie them in place.
Fasten a slice of fat pork over each breast. Put a bit of
butter the size of a hickory-nut in each bird. Some authori-
ties recommend also to put in 1 or 2 cranberries. Lay
the pigeons in a roasting-pan with 1 tablespoonful of butter
and 2 of boiling water. The oven should be quite hot, but
not scorching. Baste frequently, and roast for about 15
minutes, according to size. Remove the fat pork and serve
on toast moistened with the butter from the pan and a little
strong broth. Pigeons, like all dark-fleshed game, should be
served under-done.
SQUABS OR PIGEONS BROILED.
PIGEONS GRILLES.
Pluck, draw, clean, and wipe inside and out with a wet
cloth; do not wash them; split and spread open like broiled
chicken. Have the gridiron heated very hot; grease it; lay
the pigeon on the gridiron with the inner (or bone) side
toward the coals. Broil, if possible, under the grate, and
have the fire very clear; nothing so destroys the sweetness
of a good broil as the coal-gas which rises, often unavoidably,
if the broiler is set over the fire. Rub the birds with melted
butter. Set a pan below to catch it and the juices. Prepare
a piece of toast for each bird: trim the crusts from the edges,
and when the birds have broiled 10 minutes on the inner,
and 5 on the outer side, moisten the toast with the butter in
the pan; add a little good broth; place the squabs on the
toast; sprinkle with salt and pepper; garnish with cresses
and serve. If the fire is very intense, three minutes on the
breast-side may suffice. You can ascertain when they are
done by pressing the meat with the flat side of a fork; if it
is slightly elastic under pressure, it is sufficiently cooked.


2l6
GOOD-LTVTNG.
Never pierce game (or indeed any meat) with a fork to see
if it is cooked; pressing it, as described, will teach you
very quickly to ascertain when it is sufficiently done. If it
is to be cooked thoroughly all through, as in the case of
white-fleshed game, the meat should feel quite firm under
pressure; to be underdone, as for dark-fleshed game, it
should feel elastic, more or less so according to the degree
of redness required.
If you are not certain that your pigeons are tender, the
following mode of cooking will insure their being good eat-
ing. Pluck, draw, and clean, wiping inside and out with a
wet cloth—not washing. Tie them neatly in shape with a
slice of bacon or pork over the breast of each. Lay them,
breast uppermost, in a saucepan in which you have put 2 or
3 slices of bacon. Fry the vegetables in butter. When
brown, not burnt, add them with the seasonings, salt, and
pepper. Cover with stock, and set in one corner of the
range where they will simmer very gently. Add stock, if it
steams away. Let them simmer most gently until tender;
how long that may be will depend entirely upon the tough-
ness of the pigeons—anywhere from 1 hour to 2 hours and
30 minutes, or even more. Be careful that they do not go
to pieces; to this end watch them very carefully after 1 hour
has elapsed. Place each pigeon upon a piece of toast trimmed
around the edges. Put the vegetables around. Strain and
boil down the gravy rapidly for a few minutes. Pour over
the pigeons, and serve. Excellent.
PIGEONS STEWED IN CONSOMME".
COMPOTE DE PIGEONS.
6 pigeons,
I sliced carrot,
I " onion,
Sprig of parsley,
Consomme or good broth,
6 slices of bacon or salt pork,
3 cloves,
1 teaspoon of sugar.
tablespoon of vinegar.


"FOUR-AND-TWENTY BLACKBIRDS BAKED IN A PIE." 21J
AN ENGLISH PIGEON-PIE.
1% pounds of rump steak,
3 slices of ham,
4 eggs, boiled hard,
Salt and pepper to taste,
3 p1geons,
2 ounces of butter,
Pinch of powdered mace,
Puff paste.
Pound the steak; remove the skin and fibres, and cut it in
pieces 3x3 inches. With these line the bottom of the pie-
dish. Season with pepper, salt, and a pinch of mace. Clean
and truss the pigeons; rub them inside with salt and pepper,
and put into the body of each £ ounce of butter. Lay them
on the steak. Lay a slice of ham on each pigeon. Add the
yolks of eggs, and also the whites, sliced, if liked. Fill the
dish with stock, which may be thickened with a Brown Roux
(see receipt). Add a few balls of good force-meat, and also
a few small dice of the paste. Edge the dish with a band
of paste; cover it with the same; notch the edges together
and trim them. Clean 3 of the pigeons' feet; stick these,
claws upward, in the middle of the top, to show what manner
of pie it is. Set in a moderately-quick oven for about 1
hour. Watch that it does not bake unevenly. Then draw
it out; brush the surface with the yolk of an egg beaten with
a few drops of milk, and return to the oven for about 5
minutes more, until nicely browned. Eat hot or cold—the
latter is best. N. B.—Use Flaky Crust or Puff Paste for the
above (see receipts).
"FOUR-AND-TWENTY BLACKBIRDS BAKED IN A
PIE."
First make your crust, Plain Paste or Flaky Crust (see
receipts), and set it away. Put into a saucepan and boil for
30 minutes the following ingredients:
When the sauce has boiled as directed, put in 24 black-
birds, which have been previously cleaned. Simmer 20
I quart of broth,
Bunch of parsley and celery leaves,
% pound of ham, cut in pieces,
2 onions, chopped,
Salt and pepper,
6 cloves and 10 allspice.


218
GOOD-LIVING.
minutes or more, until tender. Be careful that they do not
go to pieces. Put a border of paste on your pie-dish. Re-
move the birds and place them in the dish. Slice 2 hard-
boiled eggs into the dish, also half a lemon (rejecting the
pips); add I gill of sherry. Strain off the broth, picking out
the pieces of ham and some of the onion, parsley, and celery,
which also put into the dish. Return the broth to the fire.
Make a roux of I tablespoonful each of butter and flour, the
latter heaping. Stir together over the fire until of a rich
brown; do not burn. Remove from the fire; stir in the
boiling broth by degrees, and blend until perfectly smooth.
Strain the sauce and fill the pie-dish. If any is left, set it
aside until the pie is baked. Now roll out the top crust
rather more than half an inch thick; lay an extra layer of
paste on the edge of the dish; moisten the edge; put on
the cover; press the edges together; notch and trim neatly.
Cut an x in the middle of the crust; place a twist of paper
in the hole to keep it open. Bake the pie about 25 minutes
in a quick oven. Bake on a separate tin a rose or leaf of
paste with which to cover the hole in the pie. When it is
nearly done, draw the pie out, brush the top with yolk of egg
beaten with a little milk; set it back in the oven, and bake
about 5 minutes longer until nicely browned. Remove
from the oven; take out the paper and pour in the extra
sauce through the hole. Put the fancy crust over the hole,
and serve. It is better eaten cold.
Veal and ham pie may be made in the same way, using -f-
veal to \ ham.
BARBECUED HARE OR RABBIT.
LAPIN OU LIEVRE ROTI.
Skin the rabbit and chop off the feet. Leave the head
on, skinning and cleaning it nicely. Empty it, and wipe the
inside with a wet cloth, drying immediately. Skewer the
fore- and hind-legs forward as if lying down. Lay it in a
roasting-pan, with 1 tablespoonful of butter and 3 of boiling


STEWED RABBIT OR //ARE AU CHASSEUR. 2lg
water. Be very generous with the butter. Add salt and
pepper. Cover air-tight with an inverted roasting-pan, to
keep in the steam. Set in a hot oven. In about 10 minutes,
baste with the butter very thoroughly, and cover again.
Repeat this process every 10 minutes until the hare has been
in the oven about 30 minutes, then, if the flesh feels almost
firm under pressure, leave off the top pan, baste again, and
return to the oven until nicely browned. It will take from
30 to 45 minutes in all, according to the size of the rabbit or
hare. Do not let the surface brown too much or dry. Gar-
nish with cresses; sprinkle with salt and pepper; pour the
pan-gravy over it, and serve with Maitre de Hotel Butter.
Put a frill of cut paper over the bone of each leg.
STEWED RABBIT OR HARE AU CHASSEUR.
LAPIN OU LIEVRE AU CHASSEUR.
I rabbit or hare, 1 gill of sherry,
I pint of boiling water, I heaping tablespoon of flour,
I onion, cut fine, 2 tablespoons of butter,
6 cloves and 12 allspice, I bay-leaf,
24 small white onions, I tablespoon of vinegar,
Pepper and salt.
Skin and clean the rabbit. Wipe with a damp cloth; do
not soak it in water. Leave the rabbit whole, or disjoint it,
as preferred. The latter is recommended. Put one table-
spoonful of butter into a large frying-pan. When the butter
is melted, lay in the rabbit; turn and brown on all sides, not
too dark. Then put it into an iron pot which has been
heating, meanwhile, on the side of the range. When the
rabbit is all browned, put the onion into the pan and fry
very brown, but do not burn. Add this to the pot. Now
put into the frying-pan the rest of the butter with the flour,
and stir until well browned, but not burned ; draw aside and
add by degrees 1 pint of boiling water, stirring all the time.
Pour this over the rabbit. Now add enough boiling water
to half cover the rabbit. Add all the other seasonings;
close the lid tightly and set where it will simmer very gently


220 GOOD-LIVING.
for 45 minutes to 1 hour. This will suffice if the rabbit is
young and tender ; if not, cook longer, watching that it does
not go to pieces. Meanwhile peel the onions in water. Put
them in a saucepan with salted boiling water and boil about
I hour, perhaps less, if quite small. When you can pierce
them very easily with a skewer, drain them. Now remove
the rabbit from the pot; arrange it neatly on a hot dish;
strain the gravy; return it to the fire, and let it boil down
briskly for a few minutes. Now arrange the onions all
around the rabbit. There should be enough to make a con-
tinuous row like large white beads. If the sauce is not
quite thick enough by this time, add a pinch of corn-starch
blended with a few drops of cold water; stir it into the
boiling gravy; boil three minutes; add the wine; pour the
sauce over the rabbit, not over the onions, and serve.
Recommended.
POTTED HARE OR RABBIT.
LIEVRE OU LAPIN EN COMPOTE.
Skin, clean, and joint the hare or rabbit, and prepare
according to the receipt for Pigeons en Compote.
SADDLE OF VENISON.
SELLE DE CHEVREUIL.
Should be roasted exactly the same as a Saddle of Mutton,
allowing 9 or 10 minutes to the pound (see receipt). Saddle
of venison should always be served very under-done. Put a
frill of cut paper on the tail; garnish tastefully and serve
with currant jelly and a salad. The plates on which the
venison is served should be very hot.
HAUNCH OF VENISON NO. I.
CUISSOT DE CHEVREUIL I.
Roast exactly like a leg of mutton, covering with a second
pan and basting frequently with melted butter. Allow about


VENISON STEAK NO II. 221
10 minutes to the pound 1n a hot oven. Venison should
always be served juicy and under-done. Serve with a Jelly
* Sauce (see receipt), or with its own juices, currant jelly
being handed at the same time. Put a frill of cut paper on
the bone; garnish and serve with a salad.
HAUNCH OF VENISON NO. II.
CUISSOT DE CHEVREUIL II.
Make a large sheet of coarse paste—that is, mix together
a little lard, flour, and enough cold water to make a paste;
roll the leg in this, covering every part, and put it in the
roasting-pan in the oven. It requires no basting. Allow
the same time, about 10 minutes to the pound. Before
serving, break off the crust. Put a frill around the bone;
garnish and serve with Jelly Sauce (see receipt).
BROILED VENISON STEAK NO. I.
Cut slices from the leg and broil them over a quick, clear
fire, turning constantly. Steaks I inch thick will not require
more than 8 to 10 minutes, as they must be served very
under-done. When done, butter both sides; sprinkle with
salt and pepper; garnish and serve alone, or with Jelly
Sauce.
VENISON STEAK NO. II.
Cut slices \ of an inch thick from the leg. Cut these into
even pieces about 3x3 inches. Prepare a Jelly Sauce (see
receipt) in a saucepan on the side of the range. Have the
fire very clear and hot. Heat the broiler. Lay the little
steaks on it. Turn very often. In 8 minutes, or less, they
will be sufficiently cooked. Drop them into the sauce; let
them stand well covered by the same for 5 or 10 minutes;
keep hot, but on no account let them cook. Serve on a
very hot dish, in a circle, one overlapping the other. Pour
the sauce over; garnish, and serve.


222
GOOD-LIVING.
VENISON IN A CHAFING DISH.
Cold sliced venison,
2 gills of cooking-sherry or one of port,
teaspoon of corn-starch,
Butter, the size of a walnut,
I gill of currant or grape jelly,
Pepper and salt.
The meat should be very tender, underdone, and cut in
thick slices. Or you can have a steak cut into pieces, 2x2
inches, and slightly broiled, and add these to the sauce 2
minutes before serving. Make the sauce as follows: Melt
the butter in the chafing-dish; add the jelly; let it dissolve
entirely; then add the port wine and about 1 gill of boiling
water, pepper and salt to taste. When it boils, stir in the
corn-starch blended with a little cold water. Stir and boil
I minute. Add the pieces of cold or broiled venison; turn
them in the sauce and heat for 2 minutes, then serve. The
meat should be kept well covered with the sauce while heat-
ing. This is an excellent old-fashioned dish for luncheon.
Follow the directions for Stewed Beef with Brown
Gravy, cutting the venison in pieces; add to the sauce
when done a gill of wine, a good pinch of cayenne, and the
juice of half a lemon. Before adding the wine remove the
meat to a hot dish. Make some Dumplings (see receipts);
drop them in small balls into the boiling sauce. Cover and
boil briskly for 10 minutes. Dish the dumplings around the
ymeat; strain the sauce; season as above; pour it over the
meat and serve. The above may be made with any rough
bits of venison, or from the remnants of haunch or saddle
already cooked, if under-done. Use claret or port wine in
preference to sherry for the sauce.
Follow the directions for Four-and-Twenty Blackbird
Pie, in all details, cutting the meat in pieces. Add dice of
VENISON STEW.
RAGOtTT DE CHEVREUIL.
VENISON PASTY.


GAME pAt£ JELLIED.
223
boiled pork, hard-boiled eggs, and wine. When baked, fill
the pie through the top opening with gravy. It will require
about 1 hour in a moderate oven. Finish and serve as
directed. It is best eaten cold, 1 or 2 days after it is made.
1 gill of port wine and a squeeze of lemon-juice added to
the gravy will be found a further improvement, but is not
indispensable.
Prepare as directed for Venison Stew, omitting the
dumplings, and adding dice of salt pork.
Having stewed the partridges or rabbits, the latter cut in
pieces, save the breasts of the partridges removed in large
pieces from the carcass; pick off all the rest of the meat
from the bones and chop it very fine by the Enterprise
Chopper. Chop also the sausage-meat, salt pork, and any
livers of game or poultry that you may have. A little piece
of calf's liver, scalded until firm, may replace these last.
Take ^, or rather less, of the bulk of all these in stale bread-
crumbs. Put the bones of the partridges, garlic, spices,
stock, etc., to boil, and finish as directed for Chicken Pate"
Jellied (see receipt).
CIVET DE CHEVREUIL.
GAME PATE' JELLIED.
pAte de g1b1er en gelee.
I pair of partridges or rabbits,
pound salt pork, minced,
Grated bread-crumbs,
Nutmeg,
I gill of wine,
Garlic and spices.
yi pound sausage-meat,
Any livers of game or poultry,
Lemon-juice,
Pepper and salt,
Sliced salt pork,
3 eggs.
I pint of stock.



MACARONI AND VARIOUS ENTRIES NOT
OTHERWISE CLASSIFIED.
TIMBALE OF MACARONI.
TIMBALE DE MACARONI.
6 ounces of cold ham, chopped fine, 2 ounces boiled macaroni,
I teaspoon of Worcestershire sauce, 1 tablespoon of good stock,
1 " "mushroom catsup, 4 tablespoons of bread-crumbs,
1 egg-
Boil the macaroni in salted boiling water for about 25 min-
utes, until tender. Drain. Cut it in pieces I inch long. Mix
the bread-crumbs and ham well; then add stock, seasonings
and sauces. Mix; add the egg well beaten. Grease a plain
mould that has a cover. Line the mould with the macaroni;
fill with the mixture; press closely. Put on the lid; fasten
it firmly. Stand the mould in a kettle of boiling water deep
enough to •§• cover it. Cover the kettle. Boil 1 hour. When
done, turn it from the mould, and serve with Bechamel Sauce
lor Stewed Mushrooms (see receipts).
MACARONI A LA MILANAISE.
yi, pound macaroni, I can of tomatoes,
2 cloves of garlic, Sprig each of thyme and parsley,
^ tablespoon of butter, Salt and cayenne,
pound cold ham, cut in dice, I scant tablespoon of flour,
Grated Parmesan or other cheese.
To make the sauce, put tomatoes, garlic, thyme, and
parsley into a stewpan. Stew 1 hour; then press pulp and
juice through a sieve. Return to the fire. Rub together
324


BOILED MACARONI WITH CHEESE.
225
butter and flour in a frying-pan over the fire until well
browned but not burned; remove from the fire and stir in
enough of the boiling tomato-juice to blend it. Pour
this into the stewpan of tomatoes; stir until perfectly
smooth; add the ham, and boil about 10 minutes. Mean-
while, boil the macaroni briskly in salted boiling water for
about 20 minutes. When quite tender, drain it thoroughly;
add it to the sauce, and set the saucepan where it will stew
gently, without actually boiling, for 20 minutes or more; the
macaroni must be thoroughly saturated with the sauce. It
scorches easily, therefore watch it. Serve in a deep dish and
hand at the same time grated cheese, Parmesan and Gruyere
mixed.
Fill a 3-quart kettle with boiling water; add salt. Hold
the macaroni in a bunch over the kettle with the ends in the
boiling water; as they soften, introduce the macaroni by
degrees into the boiling water. This is the correct way to
preserve the length of the macaroni, not breaking it. Boil
rapidly for 25 minutes; when perfectly tender, drain it in the
colander. Put in the kettle 1 pint of fresh boiling water, salt
and pepper. Rub together flour and butter until smooth;
blend with the boiling water; stir until perfectly smooth;
then add the macaroni to the sauce; boil 3 minutes, and
serve in a deep dish. Serve grated cheese separately. Or
the macaroni may be broken into convenient lengths, if the
above is too difficult.
BOILED MACARONI WITH CHEESE.
MACARONI A L'lTALIENNE.
Fill a 3-quart kettle with boiling water; add 3 teaspoons
of salt. Boil the macaroni as directed in above receipt, or
break it into convenient lengths. Boil the macaroni rapidly
BOILED MACARONI.
Yz pound of macaroni,
Salt and pepper,
2 tablespoons of flour,
I tablespoon of butter.


126
GOOD-LIVING.
for 25 minutes. When perfectly tender, drain thoroughly in
a colander. Serve in a hot dish. Serve at the same time
plain melted butter in a sauce-boat; also grated cheese;
mixed Parmesan and Gruyere being best.
Boil a pound of Macaroni (see receipt). When per-
fectly tender, drain thoroughly. Let the cold water tap run
on it for a minute or more and set aside again to drain.
Bring about 1 pint of milk to a boil. Melt in it a tablespoon-
ful of butter; add pepper and salt. Beat up in a bowl 2
eggs and 1 large tablespoonful each of grated Gruyere and
Parmesan cheese. Now put the macaroni into a fire-proof
bake-dish. Then pour the boiling milk by degrees upon the
egg and cheese, stirring rapidly. Pour the milk, egg, and
cheese over the macaroni. It should quite cover the latter;
if not, add a little more plain, hot milk. Sprinkle grated
cheese over the top, and set in a moderately-quick oven 20
to 30 minutes. The top should be of a rich brown.
Parboil the brains; cut them in square pieces. Fry the
sausages until half cooked; cut them in slices across. Scald
the oysters in their own juice for 3 minutes. Now strain
this juice and use it, in making the sauce, to blend the flour
and butter, eking out the amount required with boiling
water. Stir in the seasonings. Taste to see that the curry
does not predominate, and that there is sufficient celery-salt
and wine. If these seasonings are judiciously used, the com-
bination is delicious. Line a deep pie-dish with Puff Paste
or with Flaky Crust (see receipts), making the bottom crust
thin and building up the edges with 2 or 3 extra layers. Fill
MA CARONIA U GRA TIN.
VOL-A U-VENT BOURGEOIS.
2 pairs of calves' brains,
100 small oysters or 50 large,
I gill of sherry,
I level teaspoon of curry-powder,
6 sausages,
1 qt. of White Sauce (see receipt),
Celery-salt and cayenne,
Salt.


CHICKEN AND OYSTER PIE.
227
this with the oysters, brains, and sausages; cover with the
sauce. Roll the. top a ust f of an inch thick; cover the pie;
moisten the edges to keep them together; notch and trim
them neatly; make a x cut in the centre. Bake in a mod-
erately-quick oven 20 to 30 minutes, watching carefully that
it does not scorch. Draw it to the mouth of the oven;
brush over with yolk of egg beaten with milk; return to the
oven for 2 or 3 minutes until browned. Bake on a separate
tin a piece of crust in some fancy shape, and place it over the
x cut in the pie. Use, if possible, a dish that can stand
inside of a fancy cover; if not, fold a table-napkin neatly,
diagonally, the width of the dish, and pin it around. This
is a very simple dish, but delicious.
Cut the meat from the chicken in even, neat pieces. Scald
the oysters in their own juice. Make a sauce according to
receipt (White Sauce), using the strained oyster-juice to
blend it, eking out the necessary quantity with boiling water.
Add to the sauce the grated onion and seasonings (see
Vol-au-vent Bourgeois). Make a Puff Paste or Flaky Crust;
line a deep pie-dish with a thin layer of paste, building up
the edges with 2 or 3 extra layers. Fill the dish with the
chicken, oysters, and ham. Pour the sauce over all. Cover
with paste rolled f- of an inch thick. Moisten the edges to
keep them together; notch and trim them neatly; put an x
cut in the centre. Bake on a separate tin a small piece of
crust, cut in some fancy shape, wherewith to cover the hole in
the pie. Bake the pie for about 30 minutes in a moderately-
quick oven, watching that it browns evenly. Draw it to the
mouth of the oven; brush the top with egg-yolk and milk,
and return to the oven for 2 or 3 minutes until browned.
Use a dish that can be stood in a fancy cover; if not, pin a
folded napkin neatly around it. Serve hot.
CHICKEN AND OYSTER PTE.
Cold boiled chicken,
100 small oysters or 50 large,
I slice of cold ham, cut in dice,
Pepper, celery-salt,
I qt. of White Sauce (see receipt),
1 grated onion,
1 gill of sherry,
Cayenne and salt.


BOUCHEES k LA REINE, ETC. 22$
General Directions for Frying). When golden brown, lay
them on paper in the mouth of the oven. When dry, serve
on a folded napkin or cut paper with fresh or Fried Parsley
(see receipt).
N. B.—The whole success of croquettes depends upon
having the lard hot enough; if it is not just right, they will
be spoiled. Pieces of cold chicken or turkey may be used,
and brains substituted for the sweetbreads.
RISSOLES.
3 gills of cold meat, cut in small dice, Parsley, chopped,
I gill of chopped pork or ham, Mushrooms,
4 tablespoons of gravy or water, I egg,
I level tablespoon of flour, I teaspoon of butter.
Stir the flour and butter in a saucepan over the fire until
blended; then add the gravy, broth or boiling water; stir
smooth. Boil 2 minutes. Then stir in the meat and season-
ings; bring to boiling point; remove from the fire, and stir
in very briskly the egg which has been beaten until mixed.
Do not let it cook again. Set away to cool. Make a thin
sheet of Puff Paste or Flaky Crust (see receipts). Wet it
for about 3 inches from the edge, and place upon \ the
sheet little heaps of the prepared meat, about 4 inches
apart. Double over the paste, covering the heaps. Press
the side of the hand between each, pressing the paste to-
gether close to the heaps. Then with a biscuit-cutter, or with
a tumbler, cut out each heap in a circle or half-moon. Brush
the top with egg; bake in a quick oven, or fry in hot butter.
The egg may be omitted from the force-meat. Serve in a
pyramid on cut paper or a folded napkin, garnished with
parsley.
BOUCHEES A LA REINE, ETC.
Heat shells of puff-paste thoroughly and fill with chicken
(see Chicken en Caisses). Other bouchees may be filled with
Devilled Scallops (see receipts), sweetbreads (see Sweet-
breads en Casseroles, or Sweetbreads with Mushrooms);
or with stewed oysters (see Stewed Oysters for Pates), etc


OOOb-LIVING.
JELLIED MEA T LOAF.
PAIN DE VIANDE EN GELEE.
I quart of pieces of cold meat, Salt to taste.
teaspoon of ground cloves, I cup of boiling veal stock,
I" "allspice, ^ teaspoon of ground cinnamon,
X" "mace, % "black pepper.
Use for the purpose some stock that will jelly. If you are
not confident of what you have, either boil it down to at
least double its strength, or else add to the boiling liquid I
teaspoonful of gelatine dissolved in cold water. Mix well all
the ingredients. Press the mixture into a mould that has
been rinsed in cold water; set away to cool and harden.
Use some such combination as veal and ham, chicken and
ham, or even bouilli, with I or 2 hard-boiled eggs. When
hard, loosen the edges with a knife, turn out the form on
a dish, and serve with salad.
The various forms of these Meat Loaves cannot be too
strongly recommended for savoriness and economy. They
keep very well, and serve admirably for luncheon, or with
salad for dinner (see various receipts).
VOL-AU-VENT.
Have the pastry-cook make the vol-au-vent crust; it is
such a troublesome piece of work that it cannot be recom-
mended for home manufacture. Heat the empty shell very
hot, and fill it with Sweetbreads with Mushrooms (see re-
ceipt), to which add 2 gills or more of Quenelles (see receipt);
or fill with the mixture for Sweetbreads en Casseroles (see
receipt), to which add quenelles as above; or fill with
Chicken Saute with Mushrooms (see receipt), to which add
wine, truffles, quenelles, and, if liked, cocks'-combs. These
last may be had of any first-class grocer. Or the vol-au-vent
may have the same filling as that used in receipt for Vol-au-
vent Bourgeois, or Chicken and Oyster Pie; or, again, fill
with Oysters Stewed a la Poulette, or Oysters for Pates
(see receipts).


STUFFED CABBAGE. 2$ 1
SCALLOPED TOMA TOES WITH MEA T.
I cup of cold meat, chopped,
I large tablespoon of chopped parsley,
% grated onion,
Tomatoes, fresh or canned,
I cup of bread-crumbs,
Cayenne,
Pepper and salt,
Butter.
Use cold mutton, lamb, veal, or chicken, in fact almost
any meat. Mince the cold meat quite fine; add to it an
equal bulk of stale bread, the parsley, onion, pepper, salt, and
a good pinch of cayenne. Line the sides of a bake-dish with
peeled tomatoes cut in halves. Fill the dish with the meat;
lay over this a thick layer of tomatoes cut in thick slices or
halves; sprinkle with bread-crumbs, pepper, and salt; dot the
top with butter, and set in the oven for about 45 to 60 min-
utes. If canned tomatoes are used, drain thoroughly.
For this, select a nice .head of Savoy cabbage. Cover it
with boiling water; set aside 15 minutes, then drain. Scald
again; let stand 30 minutes, then drain dry. Make the stuf-
fing as follows:
2 heaping tablespoons of washed rice, ^ pound of sausage-meat.
Mix all well together. Open the cabbage carefully to the
very centre; put in £ teaspoon of the mixture; fold over this
2 or 3 of the small leaves; cover these again with a layer of the
force-meat; fold over this the next layer of leaves, and so on
until each layer receives its share of force-meat. Press all firmly
together; tie in a piece of cheese-cloth; put it into a kettle of
salted boiling water, and boil two hours. When done, care-
fully remove the cloth, and serve the cabbage in a deep
round dish with a Cream Sauce (see receipt) poured over it.
STUFFED CABBAGE.
CHOUX FARCIS.
I tablespoon of grated onion,
I tablespoon of chopped parsley.


23? GOOD-LIVING.
STEWED RED CABBAGE A LA FLAMANDE.
CHOUX FARCIS A LA FLAMANDE.
Prepare a red cabbage as directed (see Stuffed Cabbage);
stuff it with a force-meat of mutton, veal, or sausage-meat
(see Force-meat); cover £ with stock and red wine, and stew
it for 3 or 4 hours until perfectly tender. It must simmer
very gently. Dish the cabbage on a round dish; set the
sauce again on the fire and boil it down briskly for a few
minutes, then stir in a little corn-starch blended with cold
water; boil 3 minutes, stirring constantly; strain, and pour
over the cabbage.
N. B.—The cabbage must be kept covered air-tight while
cooking.
MEAT SAUSAGES FOR BREAKFAST.
Cold meat, minced very fine, I egg,
% bulk of meat in chopped pork, Pepper and salt,
Powdered sage or sweet herbs, Lemon-juice.
Mix all well together; form into balls, and fry in hot butter
and lard mixed. Serve with apple sauce or fried apples.
You may add to the mixture \ or \ of the bulk of boiled rice
or stale bread-crumbs.
TO A D-IN- THE-HOLE.
I pound of round steak or mutton, cold, I egg, beaten light,
I pint of milk, I cup of flour,
Salt, Pepper.
Cut the meat in dice. Beat the milk into the egg; stir
these into the flour; beat well; add seasonings and meat; put
into a buttered baking-dish. Bake 1 hour. Serve in the same
dish.



FORCE-MEATS, GARNISHES, ETC.
QUENELLES.
I pound of lean veal from the leg, poultry, or game, 6 ounces of butter,
1 pound of bread-crumbs, I ounce of butter,
2 tablespoons of rich Cream Sauce, Pinch of salt and pepper,
5 eggs less 2 whites.
Pound the veal; scrape it with a knife; pound it in a mortar;
then rub it through a sieve. Steep the inside of a loaf of
bread for 1 or 2 minutes in tepid water, then squeeze it quite
dry. Put the bread in a stewpan with I ounce of butter, and
stir it over the fire until it ceases to stick to the pan and
forms a smooth, stiff paste. Add a pinch of salt. Remove
it from the fire, and set it away to cool between 2 plates.
When cold, put 12 ounces of the prepared veal, 6 ounces of
fresh butter, and 8 ounces of the bread-panada into a mortar
and pound well together; break in, one by one, 3 whole eggs;
mix well; add 2 more yolks of eggs and the Cream Sauce
(see receipt). Season with pepper and salt and a pinch of
mace to taste. When the force-meat has been pounded to a
smooth, even paste, put it away in a bowl to cool, and it is
ready for use. To cook it, have ready a saucepan of salted
boiling water; take up the meat between 2 tablespoons;
smooth it in good shape, and drop it into the boiling water.
Test some first. If the quenelles are too soft, add more egg;
if too hard, more bread-panada or sauce. These large ones
may be served in a circle with a sauce of mushrooms or
truffles; or the force-meat may be poached in small almond-
shaped pieces or balls and served in clear soup. Quenelles
are also very useful as a garnish for Vol-au-Vents, etc. (see
receipts).
233


234
GOOD-LIVING.
SOYER'S RECEIPT FOR QUENELLES.
1yi pounds of fillet of veal, 4 eggs,
6 ounces of panada, I pound of fresh beef suet,
^ teaspoon of pepper, I teaspoon of salt,
yi teaspoon grated nutmeg.
Cut the veal into long, thin slices; scrape with a knife until
nothing remains but fibre; put it into a mortar and pound 10
minutes, or until it becomes of the consistency of a puree;
pass it through a wire sieve (the piece which is left can be
put in the soup-pot). Skin, shred, and chop the suet very
fine; put it into the mortar and pound it. Add the panada
(that is, the crumb of bread soaked in milk and boiled until
nearly dry) to the suet; pound them well together. Add
the v'eal. Add seasonings. Work all well together. Add
then, 1 at a time, the 4 eggs, continually pounding the con-
tents of the mortar. When well mixed, take a small piece in
a spoon and poach it in salted boiling water; if it is delicate,
firm, and of a good flavor, it is ready for use. N. B.—If too
soft, add another yolk of egg; if too firm, add a little cream
or stock. The flavor may be varied by making up the
weight of veal by a small proportion of ham; 1 or 2 mush-
rooms may also be used. The essential point is to pound
the mixture unsparingly; the more it is pounded the finer
and more delicate will be the quenelles.
FISH QUENELLES.
QUENELLES DE POISSON.
% pound of bread-panada, Pepper,
1 pound of flesh of any fine fish, Salt,
2 eggs, % pound of butter.
Rub the fish, freed from skin and bone, through a sieve.
Prepare the bread-panada (see Quenelles). Mix with it the
butter and fish; season with pepper, salt, and a pinch of nut-
meg or mace, and pound in the mortar. Mix in the eggs, 1
at a time; moisten with a little Fish-broth (see receipt), and
pound all together until it becomes a smooth paste. Poach


FORCE-MEA T BALLS NO. II.
as directed, using fish-stock instead of plain boiling
Serve large quenelles as an entree, with Lobster or £
Sauce (see receipts), or as a garnish. Test a piece of the
meat in the boiling broth; if too soft, add an egg; if too
firm, add a little more fish-stock and panada.
EGG BALLS.
6 hard-boiled eggs, Pinch of flour,
2 yolks of raw eggs, Salt to taste.
Pound the hard-boiled yolks of eggs until perfectly smooth
in a mortar or bowl. Beat the raw yolks. Add them, with
the flour and salt, to the cooked eggs. Mix all together and
roll into balls the size of hickory-nuts. Have ready a sauce-
pan of salted boiling water; drop the balls into it and boil
until firm, about 5 minutes.
OYSTER FORCE-MEAT AND BALLS.
I dozen oysters, 4 ounces of bread-crumbs,
1 % ounces of butter, }4 saltspoon of mace,
Cayenne and salt, Chopped parsley,
1 egg-yolk, Grated rind of half small lemon,
1 dessert-spoon of oyster-juice.
Scald the oysters in their own juice; cut in small pieces;
mix; roll into balls; fry in butter 7 to 10 minutes, or poach
in water 5 to 6 minutes.
FORCE-MEAT BALLS NO. I.
A little finely-chopped veal, I yolk of egg,
% the bulk in suet, Cracker or bread-crumbs.
Lemon-juice, Pepper and salt.
Mix well together. Roll in balls the size of a hickory-nut.
Fry 2 or 3 minutes in hot butter, or boil in salted boiling
water or stock until firm.
FORCE-MEAT BALLS NO. II.
Take any kind of cold meat or chicken and ham, chopped
very fine; season with pepper, salt, chopped parsley, thyme,


Good-living.
lemon-juice, a little grated peel, a bit of onion, chopped and
fried. Break in I egg; sprinkle with flour. Roll into balls
the size of a hickory-nut, and fry in hot butter, or as above.
GARNISHES FOR CLEAR SOUPS.
Quenelles.
Croutons,
Force-meat balls.
Poached eggs, 1 to each person.
Lemon, 1 slice to each person.
Yolks of hard-boiled eggs, I for each person.
Noodles, French, German, or Swedish.
Sausages, cut in thin slices and fried.
Macaroni, Vermicelli, and Italian pastes.
Arrow-root, corn-starch, sago, tapioca, rice.
Mixed vegetables, sliced fine, and stewed in butter.
For a light-bodied soup, a few spoonfuls of stewed tomatoes.
CROUTONS NO. I.
Slice some stale bread. Remove the crust. Cut in small dice.
Heat some butter in a pan on the fire. When it is boiling,
drop in the bread. Shake frequently till light golden-brown.
The butter should nearly cover the bread. When done, in
about I minute, remove with a skimmer to brown paper in
the open mouth of the oven. When dry, serve on a cut
paper at the same time with tomato soup or any other puree.
CROUTONS NO. II.
Proceed as above, using lard instead of butter. Let the
lard entirely cover the toasts. They will not require more
than I or 2 minutes. When pale-yellow, skim out, dry, and
serve as above. These are much prettier in color than the
croutons fried in butter. N. B.—The lard must be boiling.
(See General Directions for Frying.)


FRENCH NOODLES.
237
FANCY CROUTONS.
Cut stale bread into thin £-inch slices; stamp out any
shape, according to fancy—diamonds, rings, etc., etc. Fry
these as directed for Croutons No. 2, and use as a garnish
for minces, ragouts, stewed kidneys, sweetbreads, fish, etc.,
etc. To make a border of these croutons, dip one side of
each in white-of-egg mixed with a pinch of flour, to make it
adhere to the edge of the dish, and arrange them one next
to the other, according to taste. These croutons for gar-
nishing may also be cut in cubes inches by 2\ inches long.
FRIED BREAD-CRUMBS FOR GAME, ETC.
Cut the bread into thin slices; place these in a cool oven
with the door open overnight, if you have time. When
thoroughly dry and crisp, but not brown, roll them to a fine
crumb. Bring some lard gradually to a boil in the frying-
pan. When you are sure it is boiling (see General Directions
for Frying), throw in the crumbs, and fry quickly till golden-
brown. Do not let them darken or burn. When done, skim
out on a sieve; set in the open oven, and when dry, serve.
Very nice to serve in small heaps around grouse or other
game.
Mix all together with cold water enough to make a firm
paste. Flour the board and roll very thin. Roll this paste
up like a sheet of music. Now cut it in strips \ of an inch
wide. Flour these to prevent sticking together. Drop a
few at a time into salted boiling water or boiling broth.
Cook 30 minutes. Drain and add to the soup.
FRENCH NOODLES.
NOUILLES.
I pint of flour,
Salt and pepper,
Grated nutmeg,
6 yolks of eggs,
2 whites of eggs,
Chopped parsley.


338
GOOD-LIVING. .
GERMAN NOODLES.
2 eggs,
Flour for paste.
Beat the eggs well and work in flour to make a firm paste;
knead well; divide into two parts. Roll each out thin and
leave it to dry for a little while without hardening. Roll it
up and cut into small pieces the size of a large pea. Scatter
them in boiling salted water. When done through, drain
and throw into your boiling soup. Simmer for 15 minutes.
Beat up 1 egg with a pinch of salt until it froths; then
work in as much sifted flour as it will take up (about 3 table-
spoonfuls). Knead it until it becomes a firm, smooth, elastic
paste. Then roll it out on a slightly floured board until as
thin as writing-paper. When it is as thin as possible, slip
under the sheet of paste a smooth, slightly-floured cloth.
Cover the paste likewise. This enables you to roll it still
thinner. Now cut the paste into rounds with a thimble or
something equally small. The paste should be folded, so
that 2 discs may be cut at a time. Have ready on the fire
a saucepan of deep boiling lard. When you are certain that
it is boiling, drop in the discs of paste. They will immedi-
ately swell into golden balls, requiring not more than a
minute to color. Skim them out; drain on brown paper,
and add to the soup.
Bring the milk to a boil; add the bread-crumbs, and stir
until it thickens; remove from the fire; then add the yolks
of eggs; add all other ingredients. Mix well. Set aside to
cool.
SWEDISH NOODLES.
HAM FORCE-MEA T.
I pint of cold boiled ham, chopped fine,
yi" of stale bread-crumbs,
1 heaping tablespoon of chopped parsley,
1 teaspoon French (or English mixed) mustard,
I pint of milk,
Yolks of 3 eggs,
yi teaspoon of salt,
yi " cayenne.


MUSHROOM DRESSING.
239
Use as stuffing for meats or poultry; it is especially recom-
mended for veal. Or, when cold and firm, form into balls;
roll in egg and bread-crumbs and fry like croquettes. A
good relish, in this form, for breakfast.
CHESTNUT DRESSING NO. I.
I pint of large chestnuts, 1 tablespoon of butter,
1 teaspoon of salt, Pepper.
Roast the chestnuts. When done, remove the shells and
skins, and mash. Add the butter, pepper, and salt; mix and
fill the craws of 2 moderate-sized chickens.
SAGE STUFFING FOR GEESE OR TAME DUCKS.
1 pint of stale bread-crumbs, 2 tablespoons of melted butter,
2 teaspoons of powdered sage, I tablespoon of chopped parsley,
1 teaspoon of salt, % teaspoon of black pepper,
I teaspoon of powdered sweet marjoram.
Mix all together and moisten with the butter. It is then
ready for use.
POTATO DRESSING.
2 cups of hot mashed potatoes, 4 tablespoons of cream,
1 teaspoon of grated onion, or juice, 1 tablespoon of chopped parsley,
X" "black pepper, 1 " "butter,
1 " "salt, Yolks of 2 eggs.
Mix thoroughly. Use for tame ducks and geese.
CHESTNUT DRESSING NO. II.
Roasted chestnuts, sausage-meat and any cold meat, such
as chicken or veal, chopped very fine. Season with pepper
and salt and add butter. Use for chicken or turkey.
MUSHROOM DRESSING.
Mushrooms, calf's liver, pork, parsley, chives, butter, pep-
per and salt, all minced together very fine and stirred over
the fire for 5 minutes.


240
GOOD-LIVING.
BREAD-CRUMB DRESSING FOR ROASTED
POULTRY.
Dried bread-crumbs fried in butter, parsley chopped fine,
grated onion, pepper, salt, the liver of the turkey chopped, a
pinch of thyme. To this can be added a few small oysters
browned in hot butter. Recommended.
SWEET-POTATO DRESSING FOR TURKEY.
A turkey may be stuffed with a Puree of Mashed Sweet
Potatoes (see receipt).
SAGE DRESSING FOR TURKEYS, FOWLS, GEESE,
ETC.
2 onions, chopped very fine, fried in butter, 8 sage leaves,
5 ounces bread-crumbs, soaked and squeezed dry, I ounce of butter.
Minced salt pork (a little), I egg,
Chopped celery, Salt and pepper.
Mix thoroughly and it is ready for use.
SWEET-HERB DRESSING FOR VEAL.
Powdered thyme, summer savory, etc., 2 cups of bread-crumbs,
yi grated lemon-rind, teaspoon made mustard,
A squeeze of lemon-juice, Pepper and salt,
^ cup chopped ham, I tablespoon chopped parsley.
Mix thoroughly; it is now ready for use.
OYSTER DRESSING FOR BOILED POULTRY.
25 oysters, I teaspoon of sweet marjoram,
I tablespoon of chopped parsley, 1 " "salt,
I " "butter, Pepper to taste,
1 quart of stale bread-crumbs.
This will make sufficient dressing for a large turkey or
2 good-sized chickens.
Drain the oysters and feel that no shell or grit remains in
them. Melt the butter and then mix all the ingredients well
together and use. Serve with oyster sauce.


PASTRY CROUTONS.
SAUSAGE DRESSING FOR TURKEY.
The liver of the turkey, sausage-meat, parsley, chives, salt,
pepper, and pork minced fine. Truffles are a great addition
to this last.
FRIED PARSLEY.
Parsley, Lard or sweet drippings.
Wash, pick, and thoroughly dry handsome, full sprigs of
parsley. Bring the lard to a boil. Test it to be certain that
it is ready (see General Directions for Frying). Lay the
parsley in the frying-basket and plunge it for about I minute
(perhaps less) into the lard, which should be deep enough to
cover it. It should be crisped without blackening. Remove
the basket; drain, and set it before the fire or in the open oven
for a few minutes to dry. This should always be served in a
large bunch in the centre of a dish of croquettes, lobster
chops, fried smelts; indeed with any thing that is dipped
and fried. In this way the same lard is used for the parsley
when the other frying is finished, and is really no trouble.
TO MIX ENGLISH MUSTARD.
Mustard flour, Boiling water,
Vinegar, Salt and sugar.
Put the mustard in a cup; pour upon it a few drops of
boiling water and mix rapidly to a stiff paste. Add a few
drops of vinegar to thin it; a good pinch of sugar, and a
little salt. This will be found to be a decided improvement
on the usual method of mixing mustard.
PASTRY CROUTONS.
Roll out Puff Paste or Flaky Crust ^ of an inch thick.
Cut into diamonds about 3 inches long. Bake. Use as
garnish for stewed sweetbreads, etc., etc.
16


J42
GOOD-LIVING.
GLAZE.
GLACE.
Having cleared 2 quarts of Consomme (see receipt), set it
in an uncovered stewpan over a brisk fire, and let it boil and
evaporate until reduced to a sticky and stiff consistency ; stir
constantly and be careful that it does not blacken, or it will
become bitter. If wanted to keep on hand, take a larger
quantity than the above, as it reduces very much, and when
quite thick and stiff, put it into an earthenware jar which can
be stood in hot water {bain-marie) when the glaze is required
for use. Good for glazing hams, tongues, and other large
pieces of meat.
N. B.—In making consomme for glaze, omit turnips, which
make it bitter.



SAUCES.
GENERAL DIRECTIONS.
BROWN ROUX.
ROUX BRUN.
I tablespoon of flour, I tablespoon of butter.
Melt the butter slowly; sprinkle in the flour and stir it
over the fire until every particle of the flour is uniformly
browned. The fire must not be too hot after the first few
moments. It will require about 25 minutes. Be very careful
that it does not scorch, as this gives a bitter taste to the
sauce. The butter must be very good, and there should be
only just flour enough to absorb the butter. The above
quantity is sufficient to thicken 2 gills of sauce or 1 pint of
soup. The sauce to be thickened should be strong and well
flavored with herbs, spices, etc., boiled down until very
savory (such as Consomme), then strained; while boiling, it
should be stirred into the roux which you have drawn aside
and allowed to cool slightly. Pour it in very gradually, stir-
ring all the time. Then set the saucepan again where it will
boil, and boil for 3 or 4 minutes longer, or until the sauce is
very rich, smooth, and as thick as required. It is of the
utmost importance to learn the proper mode for putting
together the different elements of these Mother Sauces
(Sauces Meres), as the French call the Espagnole, Veloute,
Bechamel, and Allemande. They are the foundation of all
the infinite variety of fancy sauces. Proper attention is not
paid in our country to the importance of perfecting this
243


244
GOOD.LIVJNG.
branch of cookery, which is of immense value in many ways,
and pre-eminently in the matter of domestic economy; a
good sauce often helping a very meagre and commonplace
dish to pass for something quite elegant.
Of course, it is often necessary to thicken a sauce quickly
at the time of serving. In this case the proper thing to use
is corn-starch, arrow-root, or potato-flour rubbed smooth with
a few drops of cold water, and stirred into the sauce while
boiling, stirring quickly all the time and boiling for about 3
minutes, until transparent. In this case the allowance would
be about 2 medium teaspoonfuls of corn-starch to the pint;
it is very easy to gauge the quantity required at the moment.
The disadvantage of this latter system is, that after a certain
amount of boiling, or in re-heating, the sauce becomes thin
again and must be thickened anew. The proper way, there-
fore, whenever circumstances allow, is to use the roux to
thicken, and that, if possible, at the beginning of the prepara-
tion of the sauce (see, for example, directions for Beef a la
Mode, etc.) where a handsome sauce is required. A dark,
rich, strong gravy or "jus" (see Brown Gravy) does not
require thickening. Never under any circumstances allow
yourself to be tempted to use burnt or browned flour for
thickening sauces; it is a relic of barbarism, almost invariably
practised by the commonplace Hibernian cook, and every
good housekeeper should forbid the use of it. How many
roast-beef and poultry gravies are rendered bitter and all the
true flavor ruined by this wretched practice! Study to
make good sauces, and you will find yourself well repaid by
the results.
WHITE ROUX.
ROUX BLANC.
The same rule as for Brown Roux is to be followed for
White Roux, excepting that, although the flour must be
worked into the butter over the fire, it must not be allowed
to color, unless it be very slightly for certain sauces, such


BLENDING FOR SAUCES AND SOUPS. 24$
astheVeloute or Blonde, which should be pale yellow. The
White Roux is used for all white sauces, such as Bechamel,
Cream, etc. The roux, be it White or Brown, may be
made in larger quantities, and set away in glass or earthen-
ware jars, where it will keep as much as 6 months in a cool
place. It can be sprinkled into the boiling sauce, and stirred
until thick, allowing about one heaping dessert-spoonful to 1
pint of sauce, and boiling about 3 minutes or longer until
thick enough. Note.—All the sauces containing milk or
cream should be mixed in a saucepan which is set over
another in which is boiling water [bain-marie). Whenever a
sauce of whatsoever kind it may be, is to be kept hot, set it
also au bain-marie.
COLORING FOR SA UCES OR SOUPS.
If your soup or sauce is not of a satisfactory color, or if
the flavor is harsh or unpleasing, chop up one onion, put
it into a frying-pan with 1 tablespoonful of butter, and
sprinkle over it about 1 saltspoonful of sugar. Stir together
constantly, so that no one part may burn before all has
attained a beautiful, clear, reddish brown. Add a few spoon-
fuls of the sauce or soup you wish to improve; stir well and
pour into the body of the soup, which may continue to boil
after this any time required. Strain before serving.
BLENDING FOR SA UCES AND SOUPS.
LIAISON.
3 yolks of eggs, 8 tablespoons of cream.
Beat the yolks of eggs in a bowl; add the cream. Strain
through a fine sieve. When the sauce or soup boils, put a few
spoonfuls of it into the eggs and cream, stirring quickly ; add
a little more by degrees; when the liaison is quite smooth
and warmed by the addition of the liquid, remove the sauce-
pan from the fire and pour the eggs and cream carefully into
the soup or sauce. It may be heated again,-but do not let it


246
GOOD-LIVING.
boil after the liaison L added, or it will curdle. This is a
great addition to all purges, whether soup or sauce. The
above quantity will serve for 2 quarts of soup or 1 of sauce.
BROWN SA UCE.
SAUCE ESPAGNOLE.
2 slices of lean ham, 1 pound of lean veal,
6 gills of stock, 3 sprigs of parsley,
Yx bay-leaf, 3 sprigs of sweet herbs, thyme, etc.,
6 chives or 1 onion, chopped, 3 shallots,
2 whole cloves, I blade of mace,
2 gills of sherry, Flour and butter.
Cut the ham and veal into small dice. Put them into a
stewpan with 2 gills of the stock and simmer gently until the
bottom of the saucepan is covered with a nice glaze; then
add about one gill more of the stock and stir it around to
detach the glaze from the bottom of the pan. Add the herbs,
seasonings, onions, etc., and the rest of the stock; cover and
simmer gently for two hours. Strain and skim off all fat.
When ready to use, thicken it with a Brown Roux (see receipt),
allowing about 1 tablespoonful of the roux to 1 pint of the
gravy. Remove the roux from the fire. Add the gravy to
it when the former is boiling; stir and blend perfectly
smooth, boiling for about 2 minutes. Add lastly the wine,
and a little cayenne if necessary.
BROWN GRAVY.
JUS.
2 pounds shin of beef, X Poun<l of lean ham,
I onion, 2 pints of water,
Salt and black pepper-corns to taste, 1 blade of mace,
Bunch of sweet herbs, ^ large carrot.
Yi head of celery.
Cut the beef and ham in small pieces. Slice the vegetables.
Take a jar large enough to hold all the ingredients, including
water. Arrange in layers the ham, beef, vegetables, and


BECHAMEL SAt/CE.
$47
seasonings alternately; pour the water over the whole. Set
the cover on the jar and tie it so that the steam may not
escape. Place it in a very moderate oven and let it bake
from 6 to 8 hours. Should the oven be hot, less time will be
required, say about 5 hours. Strain off the gravy, and when
cold, skim off the grease. It may be flavored with wine, if
necessary, but need not be thickened unless particularly
desired; in which case, use very little corn-starch blended
with cold water, and boil 2 or 3 minutes. Recommended.
Put I of the butter in a saucepan over the fire. As soon as
it melts, add the flour; stir till blended. Be careful not to
let it brown. Add the boiling milk, by degrees, to the flour
and butter, stirring without ceasing. Boil 3 minutes.
Remove from the fire; add salt, white pepper, and the rest
of the butter; stir until the butter melts, and serve imme-
diately. If it has to be kept, set it over a kettle of boiling
water {bain-marie) ; leave the spoon in it, and every now and
again stir it down or the top will form a scum. Do not let it
boil after the last butter is added. Cream may be used
instead of new milk.
CREAM SAUCE.
SAUCE A LA CREME.
I tablespoon of flour,
1 very large tablespoon of butter,
2 gills of new milk,
teaspoon of salt,
Pepper to taste.
B&CHAMEL SAUCE.
% onion, chopped,
Butter,
2 fresh mushrooms,
Bunch of sweet herbs,
1 pint of Veloute Sauce,
2 gills of rich cream,

2 ounces of raw ham,
Stick of celery, cut fine,
Y carrot, cut fine,
2 cloves,
4 allspice,
l/2 blade of mace.

Stew the onion very gently in about 1 tablespoonful of
butter, until very tender, but not at all brown ; add the ham


248 GOOD-LIVING.
vegetables, herbs, and spices, and stew gently for 10 minutes,
without browning. Then pour off any butter that may not
have been absorbed. Add the Veloute (see receipt); stir
it in, and bring to a boil. Boil for 5 or 10 minutes, stirring
constantly.1 Then add by degrees, a very little at a time, the
cream, which should be rich, sweet, and not heated. When all
the cream is well blended with the sauce, the latter should be
velvet-smooth, rich, and delicious. Strain, and serve as soon
as possible. Use for the preparation of this, and all kindred
sauces, a saucepan, set over another of boiling water {bain-
marie). Serve with fish, chicken, sweetbreads, etc. The
above receipt is taken from a good French authority, that of
Urbain-Dubois. A simpler adaptation of the above is to use
a good, smooth Cream Sauce (see receipt) in place of the
veloute, which may not always be attainable.
SA UCE ALLEMANDE.
Make exactly the same as Veloute (see receipt), boiling it
down both before and after thickening until strong and well
flavored. Beat the yolks of eggs in a bowl, allowing one
more than for the veloute; mix them with a little grated
nutmeg and a lump of butter the size of a hickory-nut.
When the sauce is boiling, stir it very gradually into the eggs;
then replace it over boiling water on the fire, and stir it
rapidly for a few minutes, but do not let it boil. Be careful
not to let it curdle.
J POULETTE SAUCE.
• SAUCE POULETTE.
Cream Sauce, I teaspoon of chopped parsley,
2 eggs, 1 " " " chives,
, White pepper, Salt.
Make a Cream Sauce (see receipt). To this add the pars-
ley and chives, or substitute for the latter £ an onion, grated.
When it is boiling, stir it briskly into the eggs, which are
ready, beaten, in a bowl. Return to the side of the fire, and


PICKLE SAUCE.
24Q
stir for 1 or 2 minutes, being very careful not to boil, or the
eggs will curdle. Serve immediately. If this sauce has to
be kept standing, do not add the eggs until the last moment
before serving.
CELERY SAUCE.
SAUCE AU CELERI.
Cut the celery in 1-inch lengths; put it in a saucepan;
cover with boiling water. Boil about 30 minutes, until ten-
der. Make a White Roux (see receipt). Strain out the
celery; blend the water in which the celery was boiled with
the roux. Set it over the fire and stir until perfectly smooth
and thick; add salt, pepper, and the celery; set it over boil-
ing water and let it stew gently until the celery begins to go
to pieces. Or, make a Cream Sauce (see receipt), and when
the celery is boiled tender, drain and stew it, as described, in
the cream sauce. Serve with boiled turkey, chicken, etc.
SA UCE DIABLE.
White Sauce, Sherry,
Celery-salt, Cayenne,
Curry-powder.
Blend about \ teaspoonful of the curry with a little of the
White Sauce (see receipt), then stir it into the rest. Add
the other ingredients, about 1 gill of wine, and 1 saltspoon
of celery-salt, and a pinch of cayenne; taste, and be very
careful not to allow any one flavor to predominate, except
that the cayenne should be perceptible. This is a delicious
sauce, but its success depends much upon the judicious ad-
mixture of the various seasonings, as the strength of curry-
powder and celery-salt vary too much to enable one to fix
the exact quantities. Use for shell-fish, chicken, sweet-
breads, etc.
PICKLE SAUCE.
SAUCE AUX CORNICHONS.
To the receipt for White Sauce, add chopped gherkins or
other vinegar (not mustard) pickles before serving.


GOOD-LIVING.
WHITE SA UCE.
SAUCE BLANCHE.
3 ounces of butter, I ounce of flour,
2 gills of water, Pepper and salt.
Put 2 ounces of the butter in a stewpan; when it melts,
add the flour. Stir for I minute or more, but do not brown.
Then add by degrees the boiling water, stirring until smooth,
and boiling about 2 minutes. If not perfectly smooth, pass
it through a sieve; then add the rest of the butter, cut in
pieces. When the butter is melted, serve immediately.
This makes about I pint of sauce. You may add as a great
improvement a little lemon-juice or a few drops of vinegar.
N. B.—If the sauce is to have other ingredients added, it is
best to have it very thick to begin with.
CAPER SAUCE.
SAUCE AUX CAPRES.
To the receipt for White Sauce, add three teaspoonfuls of
French capers just before serving. Serve with boiled mutton.
HARD-EGG SAUCE.
To the receipt for White Sauce, add hard-boiled eggs
chopped not too fine, and a little finely-chopped parsley.
Serve with boiled fish or fowl.
ANCHOVY SAUCE.
SAUCE AU BEURRE D'ANCHOIS.
To the receipt for White Sauce, add anchovy paste to
taste. Serve with boiled fish.
LOBSTER SAUCE.
SAUCE HOMARD.
To 1 pint of Cream Sauce (see receipt), add the meat of
tail and claws chopped not too fine, a little of the coral


252
GOOD-LIVING.
again, or it will curdle. Add salt, pepper, and a little
lemon-juice and chopped parsley. A little grated onion
may be added at the same time as the broth. In this case
%. it is safer to strain the sauce before serving, to avoid the
possibility of any onion remaining in it. N. B.—The best
stock for this sauce is one made of chicken or veal and a
little ham; it should be highly flavored and not too dark-
colored. The sauce, when ready to serve, should be light
yellow.
MAtTRE D'HOTEL BUTTER.
BEURRE MAITRE D'HOTEL.
Mix together, cold, 1 tablespoonful each of butter and
very finely-chopped parsley, and I teaspoonful of lemon-
juice; pepper and salt. The parsley should be as fine as
powder. Work all well together. Use for broiled steaks,
fish, etc., spreading the top generously with it, setting in
the mouth of the oven 2 or 3 minutes until melted.
MAtTRE D'HOTEL SAUCE.
SAUCE MAITRE D'HOTEL.
Same as above, melted over a pan of boiling water, and
served in a sauce-boat. Use with boiled fish, etc.
SA UCE B&ARNAISE.
6 shallots, or bunch of chives, ^ gill of vinegar.
Chop the shallots, chives (or small bit of garlic); put it,
with the vinegar, in a china-lined saucepan on one corner
of the range, arid let it simmer until reduced about \, then
strain it and set aside.
6 yolks of eggs, Lemon-juice, if necessary,
% pound of butter, Glaze,
Pepper, Grated nutmeg.
Boil down some good consomme to a glaze, if you have
none already prepared. Break the yolks of eggs into a


TERRAPIN SAUCE.
25$
saucepan which will stand in one of boiling water {bain-
marie). Add the butter, pepper, and a pinch of grated nut-
meg. Place the saucepan of eggs in the saucepan of boiling
water, and stir without ceasing until the eggs begin to
thicken. Do not allow the eggs to come to boiling point,
or they will curdle. When beginning to thicken, add an
equal bulk of the glaze described, a very little at a time, and
stirring constantly. When as thick as very rich custard, add
the vinegar as described above. If not acid enough, add a
squeeze of lemon-juice and a pinch of salt, but very care-
fully. If the sauce curdles, or is too thick, add a few drops
}f cold water and stir. Serve immediately with fish, lobster,
rhops, and grills of all sorts. Beefsteak broiled and served
with this sauce is the famous dish at the historic Restaurant
Henri IV. at St. Germain.
TERRAPIN SA UCE.
6 yolks of eggs, boiled very hard, 1 gill of cream,
pound of butter, Salt and pepper,
1 gill of sherry Cayenne.
Rub the yolks of eggs to a powder; add the cream (or an
equal quantity of Cream Sauce) and seasonings, stirring over
the fire for 2 or 3 minutes until thoroughly hot, but do not
boil. Remove from the fire and add the wine. Add what-
ever meat or fish you wish to use with the sauce. Stand it
over boiling water {bain-marie) until heated through, and
serve. This sauce is excellent with:
Terrapin, Beefsteak,
Veal, Lobster,
Boiled calf's liver, cut in dice, Kidney,
Cold chicken, cut in dice, etc., etc.
It improves very much if prepared in the morning, and
set away with the meat in it, ready to be served. Half an
hour before it is required, stand the dish over boiling water.
Be sure the sauce and meat become thoroughly heated
through. Serve in a casserole.


254
GOOD-LIVING.
MUSHROOM SAUCE FOR FILET OF BEEF.
SAUCE AUX CHAMPIGNONS.
2 gills of stock,
Lemon-juice,
I can of mushrooms,
1 tablespoon of butter,
12 the juice of a can of mushrooms,
Pepper and salt,
1 heaping tablespoon of four.
Skim the stock, and put it and the mushroom-juice in a
saucepan on the fire. Now put the butter and flour in a fry.
ing-pan, and stir together over the fire until well browned
(roux); remove from the fire, and stir in the boiling stock;
add the mushrooms, a few drops of lemon-juice, salt, and
pepper; stew for five minutes, until the mushrooms are well
heated through. Pour part of this sauce over the filet.
Serve the rest in a sauce-boat.
MADEIRA SAUCE.
SAUCE MADÈRE.
% gills of Espagnole or Brown Sauce, I gill of truffles, cut in pieces,
I gill of sherry,
I “ mushrooms, “ “
. 2 gills Tomato Sauce.
Boil together the Tomato and Espagnole (see receipts)
for 5 minutes. Add salt, pepper if required, the mushrooms,
and truffles ; when heated, stir in the wine, and serve. This
sauce should be prepared over boiling water (bain-marie).
Serve with filet of beef, etc.
SAUCE AU BEURRE NOIR.
14 pound of butter,
1 tablespoon of chopped parsley,
Salt and pepper to taste, 3 tablespoons of vinegar.
Melt the butter in a saucepan. When it smokes, and
begins to brown, add the vinegar and seasonings. Let all
simmer for 2 or 3 minutes, until of a good dark color; add
the parsley, and serve. Use with calves' brains, lobster,
eggs, etc.


TOMATO SAUCE.
255
PLAIN MELTED BUTTER.
Put a large piece of best butter into a bowl. Stand this
in boiling water until the butter melts ; pour it off through
a fine sieve, leaving in the bowl any sediment there may be.
Beat into it a pinch of salt, and serve in a hot sauce-boat.
This is called by some authorities the real Sauce Hollandaise;
but on this point opinions differ.
SAUCE HOLLANDAISE.
3 teaspoons of vinegar,
Lemon-juice,
4 yolks of eggs,
3 small black pepper-corns,
Salt and pinch of grated nutmeg, 5 ounces of butter,
1 teaspoon of Velouté.
Boil the vinegar with the pepper-corns until reduced one
half. Strain and set aside to cool. Mix in a saucepan one
half of the butter cut into small pieces, the yolks of eggs, a
little salt, pinch of grated nutmeg, and the vinegar. Set the
saucepan over boiling water, and stir unceasingly with a
wooden spoon until it is perfectly smooth. Strain it into
another saucepan, and set it back over boiling water as
before, beating it steadily. Add, by degrees, the remainder
of the butter, divided in bits, and the Velouté (which may be
replaced by the same quantity of good White Sauce, see re-
ceipt). When the sauce is very light aud frothy, remove
from the fire, squeeze in a little lemon-juice, and serve
immediately with fish, etc.
TOMATO SAUCE.
SAUCE TOMATE.
6 large tomatoes, or I can,
2 chopped onions,
Butter, size of an egg,
Salt and pepper,
Bunch of parsley and thyme, Pinch of sugar,
I tablespoon of butter,
2 tablespoons of flour.
Peel the tomatoes, and put into a saucepan with butter,
thyme, onions, and parsley (and i clove of garlic chopped
and fried in butter). Set over boiling water, and stew very


2$6
GOOD-LIVING.
gently for 3 hours. Then press fruit and juice all through
a sieve, rejecting only the seeds and herbs. Meanwhile,
prepare a roux, allowing to 1 quart of sauce 1 tablespoonful
of butter and 2 of flour, stirred together over the fire until
light golden-brown—no darker, or the color of the sauce will
be injured. When the sauce is strained, remove the'roux
from the fire; stir in the sauce. Return it to the fire.
Stir and boil 3 to 5 minutes, until rich and thick. Should
the sauce be already quite thick with the pulp of the toma-
toes, use less thickening. If served with fricandeau, veal
saute, or filet of beef, add the juices of the meat to the
sauce.
TOMATO SAUCE WITH WINE.
Add to the above receipt, sherry to taste. Excellent.
PARSLEY SAUCE.
SAUCE PERSIL.
Parsley, chopped fine, Bread-crumbs,
Salt and pepper and broth, Vinegar.
Rub together equal quantities of parsley and bread-
crumbs; moisten with broth; add seasoning, and stir over
the fire until smooth and thoroughly hot, but do not boil.
Serve.
SPANISH RED-PEPPER SA UCE.
SALSA PIMIENTO DULCE.
2 sweet red-peppers, I clove of garlic,
1 gill of sweet oil, Salt and vinegar.
Put the peppers into boiling water until tender. Be care-
ful that all the seeds are removed. Rub them to a paste
with the garlic. Moisten with a little water. Heat the oil
in a frying-pan, and when hot, stir in the pepper. Add
seasonings. This is a good sauce in which to warm fish,


Sauce soubise.
257
from which the bones have been removed, or with beefsteak,
chops, etc.
N. B.—The Spanish sweet peppers are put up in tins;
obtainable from the best grocers and importers.
SAUCE ROBERT.
2 ounces of butter, 3 onions, sliced fine,
4 tablespoons of good stock, 1 teaspoon of made mustard,
Juice of half a lemon, 1 " "vinegar,
Salt and pepper to taste, 1 " "flour.
Melt the butter in a saucepan; when the butter is melted,
fry the onions brown, being careful not to burn them. Add
the flour; shake the onions in it, and fry again for a few
minutes. Then carefully stir in the stock and seasonings,
and boil gently for 10 minutes. Skim. Add the mustard,
vinegar, and lemon-juice. Boil up once, and serve with
steak, pork chops, liver, goose, turkey, etc., etc.
SAUCE POIVRADE.
I onion, minced, Butter,
I gill of vinegar, I pint of gravy or stock,
Bunch of parsley, 3 cloves,
Pepper and salt, Butter and flour.
Fry the onions in butter until yellow; add the vinegar;
boil away leaving -§. To this add the gravy or stock,
parsley, cloves, pepper, and salt. Boil 1 minute. Add about
1 heaping teaspoonful of flour rubbed up with \ a teaspoon-
ful of butter. Stir it into the sauce and boil for 10 minutes.
Strain, skim ; serve with all kinds of broiled or sauted meats.
SAUCE SOUBISE.
4 large white onions, cut in quarters, Cream Sauce,
Butter and pinch of sugar, Salt and pepper.
Put the onions in boiling water and boil about 20 minutes
or more until quite tender. Drain thoroughly. Put them in
a saucepan with I large teaspoonful of butter, and let the
17


GOOD-LIVING.
onions stew until slightly yellow: then add a pinch of salt, I
of sugar and a little white pepper. When the onions are
quite tender, mash them through a coarse sieve; add an
equal bulk of rich Cream Sauce (see receipt), and serve
immediately with filet of beef, fricandeau, beefsteak, etc.
The juices of these meats should be stirred into the Soubise.
which should be as thick as very rich cream.
SHAD-ROE SAUCE.
Wash 2 shad-roes in cold water. Put them in a saucepan
with 1 teaspoon of salt. Cover with boiling water. Put the
lid on and simmer 15 minutes. Drain; skin; mash fine.
Make a White Sauce (see receipt); add the roes to it ; mix
well; add a squeeze of lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful of
chopped parsley, cayenne and salt; bring to a boil and serve
with baked or boiled shad.
• RAVIGOTE SAUCE.
SAUCE RAVIGOTE.
1 teaspoon of mushroom catsup, Butter, size of an egg,
I " "Chili vinegar, I tablespoon chopped parsley,
1 " "Reading sauce, 3 tablespoons of cream,
1 sprig of tarragon, 3 " thick White Sauce,
Salt and pepper to taste, )i tablespoon chopped chervil.
Scald the parsley; dry and chop very fine. Have ready
the White Sauce (see receipt) ; add all the other ingredients;
mix and serve hot. Heat the sauce over boiling water
(bain-marie ).
VINAIGRETTE.
5 tablespoons of olive oil, 1 teaspoon of French mustard,
2 ""vinegar, 1 " "chervil, chopped,
Pepper and salt to taste, 1 " "chives,"
I teaspoon of capers, 1 " "parsley,"
1 teaspoon of chopped pickles.
Mix together cold and use with cold bouilli, sliced hard-
boiled eggs, etc., etc. A few pieces of anchovy, shredded,
may also be added.


CHESTNUT SAUCE.
REMOULADE SAUCE (COLD).
SAUCE REMOULADE.
3 hard-boiled eggs, ^ teaspoon of made mustard,
I raw yolk of egg, Salt and cayenne to taste,
I tablespoon of tarragon vinegar, 3 tablespoons of olive oil.
Boil the eggs as directed (see receipt). When cold,
remove the shells ; set aside the whites to use, crumbed, as
a garnish. Put the yolks in a mortar, or bowl, and mash
perfectly smooth. Add to them mustard, seasonings, ^ of
the vinegar, and mix thoroughly. Now add, drop by drop,
the oil, turning all the time, then the yolk of the raw egg,
and when this is thoroughly worked in, add the rest of the
vinegar. The sauce is now ready to be used with cold meat,
fish, or salad. Mix the sauce very carefully to prevent
curdling, and always stir one way. The quantities of oil and
vinegar may be slightly increased according to taste.
GREEN REMOULADE.
R&MOULADE VERTE.
Is made the same as above, being colored with spinach or
parsley-juice.
CHESTNUT SAUCE.
SAUCE AUX MARRONS.
I pint of large roasted chestnuts, I pint of boiling stock,
I tablespoon of flour, Salt and pepper,
I large tablespoon of butter.
When the nuts are roasted, peel, and mash fine. Brown
together the flour and butter (see roux); remove from the
fire; add the stock and nuts. Stir. Return to the fire.
Stir and boil 2 minutes. Season. Serve with broiled din-
donneau (turkey-chick), roast turkey, fricandeau, etc.


GOOD-LIVINC.
HORSE-RADISH SAUCE.
SAUCE AU RAIFORT.
3 eggs.
Pinch of flour,
Grated horse-radish,
I cup of cream,
Salt,
Broth.
Cover the horse-radish with broth. Let it boil a few
minutes until tender. Rub up the eggs in a bowl with
cream and salt. When the horse-radish is tender, add it
gradually, while boiling, to the eggs and cream, stirring con-
stantly. Stir over the fire for 2 or 3 minutes to heat and
thicken, but do not boil, or the eggs will curdle. Serve with
roast meat or with fish.
Remove the leaves and tips from the coarser parts of the
stalks; chop all the best part as fine as powder. Put it in a
bowl, and pour over it the boiling water, adding the sugar.
Cover closely and set aside until cool, about 15 minutes.
Then add the vinegar, pepper, and salt. Serve very cold
with roast lamb. The sauce should be thick with the
chopped mint: it is usually the reverse, vinegar and water.
Rub together the flour and butter over the fire until pale
yellow, but be careful not to brown it; add the boiling stock
by degrees, stirring constantly. Boil 3 minutes. Season
with lemon-juice, salt, pepper, and serve. If for chicken
fricassee, boiled mutton, boiled turkey, etc., use the liquor in
which the meat or chicken has cooked, to blend the sauce.
MINT SA UCE.
I bunch of mint (a good handful),
I large tablespoon of sugar,
4 tablespoons of vinegar,
Pepper,
% teaspoon of salt,
4 tablespoons of boiling water.
SAUCE BLONDE.
I tablespoon of butter,
I " "flour,
pint of good stock,
Salt and pepper.


TAR TARE SAUCE.
26l
MA YONNAISE SA UCE.
1
SAUCE MAYONNAISE.
Yolk of I egg (in summer 2 yolks),
2 gills of olive oil (perhaps more),
Pepper and salt,
Vinegar.
In the list of ingredients for the sauce should be included
a large stock of patience, as, without it, there can be no May-
onnaise! It is one of the essentials, also, to the success of the
same, to have both the egg and oil cold, therefore place them
in the ice-box some time before they will be required. In
summer, the soup-plate in which you make the dressing
should be stood upon cracked ice in a pan. Having every-
thing ready at hand, break the eggs, carefully separating
whites and yolks. Put the yolks into a soup-plate; pick out
the germs, which you reject. Add a dash of white pepper
and about -J- a saltspoon of salt to the egg, and work it around
just enough to thoroughly mix; then begin with the oil,
adding it, literally, drop by drop, stirring with a steady, not
too rapid motion, and always in the same direction. Work
in the oil in this way, until you have used about 2 gills. A
practised hand will manage to make the egg hold more oil,
by adding, whenever there is the slightest symptom of
"cracking," a few drops of vinegar, mixing steadily for some
time, and then beginning again with the oil. The juice of a
lemon may be used for the necessary amount of acidity, after
the dressing is made as above, but it whitens the sauce.
Serve very cold with salads, etc.
TARTARS SAUCE.
SAUCE TARTARE.
2 gills of Mustard Dressing,
Tabasco or cayenne,
1 teaspoon chopped parsley,
Yolk of 1 egg may be added if desired,
1 teaspoon chopped chives or % of a
small onion, grated very fine,
I teaspoon of capers or chopped pickle.
Having made the Mustard Dressing (see receipt), work
into it the parsley, chives, and capers; add cayenne or, bet-


262
GOOD-LIVING.
ter still, tabasco, and salt to taste. Set on the ice. Serve
with brain fritters, fried smelt, lobster chops, cold fish, etc.,
etc. Delicious.
CUCUMBER SAUCE.
SAUCE AUX CONCOMBRES.
2 gills of Mustard Dressing, I medium-sized cucumber,
Yolk of I egg may be added if desired.
Having made the Mustard Dressing (see receipt), add to
it the cucumber, peeled and grated or chopped very fine.
Set on ice until used. Delicious.
APPLE SA UCE FOR PORK AND GOOSE.
PUREE DE POMMES.
6 large, tart apples, Soft sugar to taste,
Butter, size of a walnut, Water.
Pare, core, quarter the apples. Throw them into cold
water as you prepare them. Put them into a saucepan with
just enough water to prevent scorching, not more than 2 gills.
Boil very gently, uncovered, for about 40 minutes, or until
the apples are perfectly soft. Press them through a coarse
sieve; add the butter and sugar to taste, and serve.
N. B.—Be careful not to allow the sauce to scorch.
MATELOTE SAUCE FOR FISH.
SAUCE MATELOTE.
yi pint Espagnole or Brown Sauce, 3 onions,
2 tablespoons of mushroom catsup, 1 gill of port wine,
Bunch of sweet-herbs, ^ bay-leaf,
1 clove, 2 allspice,
Salt and pepper to taste, Lemon-juice and anchovy sauce.
Slice and fry the onions brown, but do not burn. Put
them in a saucepan with the Espagnole (see receipt), catsup,
wine, and 1 gill or 2 of the liquor in which the bones of the
fish have boiled (or boiling water). Add seasonings, herbs,


JELLY SAUCE FOR VENISON, ETC.
263
spices. Simmer 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Strain
through a fine sieve; add a squeeze of lemon-juice and an-
chovy sauce to taste. Serve, pouring some of the sauce
over the fish and the rest in a boat. This is an especially
good sauce for baked fish; may also be used with boiled
fish, or may be prepared and the filets of fish stewed in it
for about 5 minutes or more, according to their size. The
Espagnole may be replaced by the same quantity of fish-
broth thickened with roux (see Brown Roux).
CRANBERR Y SA UCE. s
Put the berries, well washed and picked over, in a sauce-
pan with just enough water to prevent scorching, about I
gill to a quart of fruit. Stew gently over a moderate fire.
Stir frequently with a wooden spoon, mashing the fruit as
much as possible. When the berries are all mashed and
smooth (about 20 minutes), remove the saucepan from the
fire, and stir in immediately enough sugar to sweeten to
taste. Dissolve the sugar, but do not boil again. Rinse a
mould with cold water; pour in the fruit and set away to
harden; or if preferred, press the fruit through a coarse sieve,
rejecting all the skins, and putting the smooth sauce into a
mould as above. Serve with roast turkey. y
JELLY SAUCE FOR VENISON, ETC.
Equal quantities of butter, currant-jelly, and port or ma-
deira. Melt the butter first, then add the jelly, and when it
is melted, the wine. Bring to boiling point and serve.
Or, if you do not wish to use so much wine, put the jelly,
a large piece of butter, and a little boiling water in a sauce-
pan. "When this comes to a boil, stir in a little corn-starch
blended with a few drops of cold water. Add a little cayenne
and some salt. Boil for 3 minutes; add wine to taste;
bring to boiling point and serve. The proportions for this
last: I teaspoon of butter, -J- tumbler of jelly, 1 gill of water,
I small teaspoonful of corn-starch, 1 gill of wine.



TIME-TABLE FOR COOKING VEGETABLES.
Hours.
Minutes.
25 to 35
To boil potatoes according to season,
To bake large potatoes..........
To bake large sweet potatoes........
To boil large sweet potatoes...
To boil Jerusalem artichokes—Put on in boiling water.
To boil French globe artichokes—Put on in boiling water
To boil asparagus—Put on in boiling water.........
Asparagus tips—Put on in boiling water....
String-beans, uncovered-Put on in salted boiling water
Lima beans-Put on in boiling water........
Beets, young-Put on in boiling water..
Beets, winter-Soak in cold water ; boil. ........
Broccoli-Put on in salted boiling water.............
Brussels sprouts, uncovered—Salted boiling water....
Green corn ; no salt-Put on in boiling water........
Cabbage, young, quartered—Salted boiling water...
Cabbage, winter—Two waters......................
Cabbage, cut like slaw-Put on in boiling water ....
Carrots, young-Put on in boiling water..........
Carrots, winter, whole-Put on in boiling water ......
Cauliflower-Put on in boiling water ........
Celery-Put on in boiling water. ...................
Celeriac (celery-root), sliced—Put on in boiling water..
Lentils—Soak overnight; put on in lukewarm water...
Okra-Put on in boiling water.............
Onions, young-Put on in salted boiling water......
Onions, winter-Put on in salted boiling water.....
Onions, large Spanish-Boil 1 hour ; bake 1 hour.....
Oyster-plant, or salsify-Put on in boiling water......
Green peas, uncovered—Put on in plenty of boiling water
Parsnips—Soak overnight ; put on in lukewarm water..
Squash, winter-Baked in halves............
Sorrel, uncovered—Scald ; boil only until wilted......
Spinach, uncovered—Scald ; boil only until wilted.....
Samp-Soak overnight ; boil 5 hours ; siew 1 hour....
Tomatoes, uncovered—Stew........................
Tomatoes—Baked plain........
Turnips, young or sliced—Put on in boiling water ....
Turnips, winter-Put on in boiling water............
15 to 20
about 30
20 to 30
10 to 15
20 to 40
about 40
about
about
30
about 20
20
30 to 45
or more
20
20 to 30
20 about
30 to 40
30 about
20 to 30
30, about
30
40 to 60
more or less
or more
about
20 to 30
15, about
about
10 to 15
10 to 15
about
or more
30
30, about



VEGETABLES.
GENERAL REMARKS.
As we are particularly favored in this country by the
bountiful supply and variety of our vegetables, we should
take very great care in their preparation in order to do them
justice. Always procure the freshest that you can. If by
any chance you are obliged to use those which have been in
the house 24 hours, lay them in cold water to freshen and
revive them before cooking. The time-table for vegetables
has been most carefully prepared, and will answer most
questions that are asked of it. There is to be added, how-
ever, one thing upon which too great stress cannot be laid.
When the vegetable is cooked perfectly tender and ready to
be removed from the fire, drain it thoroughly. Not only
allow the water to run off, but, wherever it is possible, press
the water out in the colander; or, when this is not possible,
stand the colander on something over the fire, that the water
may be driven off by the heat. Resort to any device that
may suggest itself to you rather than allow your vegetables
to remain wet and soggy. Any amount of seasoning that
you may add will not give them the proper taste if the water
from the boiling is allowed to remain in them.
Certain vegetables, notably string-beans, green peas,
spinach, sorrel, and Brussels sprouts, should always be
boiled uncovered, to preserve the freshness of their color. It
will be found less necessary, in this case, to use soda for the
same purpose, unless the water is very hard. Another
important rule is to remove the vegetable from the fire and
drain it the moment it is sufficiently cooked. Do not draw
it aside and let it stand in the water, or it will be quite
spoiled.
265


266
GOOD-LIVING.
TO BOIL PO TA TOES ( WINTERJ.
POMMES DE TERRE AU NATUREL.
Select potatoes of uniform size. It is best not to pare
them beforehand, unless it to be to remove a narrow belt of
skin all around the potato. However, toward the end of the
winter, they require to be peeled and the blemishes removed.
When this time comes, it is best to serve them prepared ac-
cording to some of the various receipts for dressing potatoes.
Put the potatoes into an iron pot, with just enough well-
salted cold water to cover them. Do not put the lid on the
pot. Let them boil until nearly done, 25 to 30 minutes.
Try them with a fork, and if almost tender all through, pour
off all but about 1 gill of the water in the bottom of the pot.
Return it to the fire, and put on a close cover; steam until
quite done; then remove the lid, sprinkle with salt, and
allow them to stand a few minutes on the fire to evaporate
the water. They should be dry and flaky. If not, cover
with a towel or flannel folded in 4, and let stand a few
minutes longer. Dish carefully, previously peeling if neces-
sary. It will require about 35 minutes for the entire process
for potatoes of medium size.
The water in which unpeeled potatoes are boiled is said to
be poisonous, and an excellent means of destroying green-fly
on rose-bushes.
POTATOES TO SERVE WITH BOILED FISH.
POMMES DE TERRE AU COURT BOUILLON.
Cut the potatoes in the shape of large olives. Throw them
into cold water as you trim them. If you boil the fish in
Fish Stock or Court Bouillon, take some of the same and
boil the potatoes in it 15 or 20 minutes, until tender. When
the fish is dished, drain, salt, and dry the potatoes, and
arrange them tastefully around the fish, with plenty of
parsley as a garnish. Serve with Hollandaise Sauce.


BAKED POTATOES.
267
TO BOIL NEW POTATOES.
These should never be peeled with a knife. Scrub and
rub the skin until clean. Cover with boiling water, and boil
rapidly from 15 to 20 minutes with the cover on. Drain the
potatoes; sprinkle with salt, and put back on the fire, un-
covered, for a few minutes to dry. Dish in a folded napkin,
and serve very hot.
MASHED POTATOES.
POMMES DE TERRE EN PUREE.
6 or seven potatoes, I gill of cream,
I tablespoon of butter. Salt and pepper.
Peel and boil as directed for Winter Potatoes. Slightly
heat the cream, butter, salt, and pepper. When the potatoes
are cooked, and all are hot, add the cream to the potatoes
and mash until perfectly smooth. Be generous with good
butter. Make the puree very soft, and if you want it par-
ticularly perfect, beat it hard with a fork or egg-beater a few
minutes before serving. Serve very hot.
POTATO SNOW.
POMMES DE TERRE EN NEIGE.
Boil as directed with the skins on. Then peel the potatoes
and set for a few minutes over the fire to dry out, having
sprinkled them with salt. When quite dry, rub them
through a colander. Do not disturb the snow as it drops, or
it will flatten. This same preparation may be put into a
bake-dish and set in the oven until slightly browned.
BAKED POTATOES.
Select for this purpose the largest and smoothest. Put
them in the oven, opening the door every little while, taking
each one in a coarse cloth and pressing it all over. They
will require about 1 hour.


2o8
GOOD-LIVING.
TO ROAST POTATOES WITH BEEF.
Select potatoes of uniform size. Peel; wash clean, and
lay in the pan with the beef (mutton or veal) about I hour
before the meat is to be done. Baste frequently; serve
around the meat.
COLD BOILED POTATOES.
Note.—All potatoes, which are to be boiled first and then
dressed, must be boiled in their skins and set away to get
cold with their skins on. This applies especially to potatoes
to be used in hashes. It makes a wonderful difference, and
should be observed; the potato is much easier to cut neatly,
and does not crumble to pieces in the cooking. For potato
salad, the potatoes should never be cooked in any other way.
POTATOES SAUT&.
POMMES DE TERRE SAUTEES.
Having boiled the potatoes and set them away with their
skins on, peel them, cutting across in slices about \ of an
inch thick. The potatoes used should be rather small.
Heat a large lump of butter in a saucepan. Lay the pota-
toes in, cover, and stew, not fry, them in the butter. There
must be enough butter for every slice to get its coating and
absorb as much as it will. Chop a tablespoonful of chervil
and one of parsley as fine as powder. Stir it carefully into
the potatoes; add salt and pepper, and when they have
cooked about 15 minutes, serve. They should not be allowed
to crisp or brown. Shake the pan from time to time to
prevent sticking or browning.
New potatoes may be sauted as above, but whole.
LYONNAISE POTATOES.
POMMES DE TERRE A LA LYONNAISE.
Having boiled the potatoes with their skins on and left
them to cool in the same way, peel, and slice about \ of an


POTATO PUFF.
269
inch thick. Put a large tablespoonful of butter in a sauce-
pan. When the butter melts, throw in \ of an onion, chopped
fine. Fry it light golden-brown; then lay in the potatoes;
draw the pan to a cooler part of the range, and let the pota-
toes cook in the butter until it is nearly absorbed. Then let
it stand on the hotter part of the fire for 2 or 3 minutes until
the edges of the potatoes are very slightly browned. Add
pepper, salt, and 1 tablespoonful each of parsley and chervil,
chopped as fine as powder. Mix very carefully with the
potatoes and serve on a hot dish. On no account allow the
potatoes to fry brown or crisp. They must be sauted, not
fried. Or, another way is to fry half an onion in the butter;
remove it; then put in the potatoes and finish as above
directed. This is even more delicate. Serve with beefsteak,
etc.
FRIED POTATO HASH.
Having boiled and cooled the potatoes with their skins
on, peel and chop, not too fine. Melt in a frying-pan a large
lump of sweet drippings or butter, or both mixed. Quite a
large tablespoonful of each will be required for an ordinary
dish of potatoes. When the butter is hot, lay in the pota-
toes. Sprinkle generously with pepper and salt. Take a
long knife, and every minute or two run it under the pota-
toes, turning them up from the bottom. Be careful not to
mash them. Fry until the edges are well browned, and
serve.
POTATO PUFF.
2 cups of hot or cold mashed potatoes, I tablespoon of butter,
3 tablespoons of cream, • 2 eggs,
Salt and pepper.
Put the potatoes into a frying-pan, adding the yolks of
eggs, cream, and seasonings. Stir over the fire until well
mixed and hot. Remove from the fire. Stir in carefully
the whites, beaten to a stiff froth. Heap on a greased sheet
of tin, or in gem-pans, and bake in a quick oven until well
browned.


G0OD.LIVING.
POTATO CROQUETTES.
CROQUETTES DE POMMES DE TERRE.
2 cups of mashed potatoes, Yolks of 2 eggs,
I teaspoon of grated onion or juice, I teaspoon of salt,
I ""powdered sweet-marjoram, 2 tablespoons of cream,
I tablespoon of chopped parsley, Butter, size of a walnut,
Cayenne.
Beat the yolks to a cream; add them and all the other
ingredients to the potatoes; mix. Put into a saucepan and
stir over the fire until the mixture leaves the sides of the
pan. When cold, form into balls or long croquettes IX2£
inches. Dip first in egg, then in bread-crumbs, making them
very smooth and even. Set away in the ice-box for I hour
or more. Then fry golden-brown. The lard should be deep
enough to cover them. Use a frying-basket (see General
Directions for Frying). When fried light golden-brown, drain
on brown paper and set in the mouth of the oven. When
dry, serve as a garnish for braised meat of any kind, or as a
vegetable.
NEW ORLEANS POTATOES.
POMMES DE TERRE A LA CREOLE.
Pare and cut raw potatoes into f-inch dice. Throw them
into ice-water for 30 minutes to 1 hour. Drain very dry.
Have ready a kettle of deep lard. When you are sure it is
really boiling, drop in the potatoes and fry golden brown 4
to 5 minutes (see General Directions for Frying). Lift them
out; drain; dry on brown paper in the mouth of the oven.
Sprinkle with salt, and serve. A \ onion fried first in the
lard gives a very pleasant flavor.
POTATO BALLS.
POMMES DE TERRE EN BOULETTES.
5 medium-sized potatoes, Nutmeg, cayenne, salt,
I tablespoon of chopped parsley, Yolk of I egg.
Prepare the potatoes as directed for Mashed Potatoes.
While hot, add the other ingredients. Mix well. Roll into


POTATOES A LA BRASANqONNE. 2"]\
balls, making the surface even and very smooth. Dip in
egg, then in fine bread-crumbs, and fry in deep boiling lard.
Use a frying-basket (see General Directions for Frying).
When fried gold-color, drain; dry on brown paper in the
mouth of the oven. Dish in a pyramid on a folded napkin
or cut paper, or use as a garnish for roasted or braised filet,
veal, etc., etc.
POTATO SOUFFL&.
POMMES DE TERRE EN SOUFFLE.
2 cups of potatoes, mashed 2 eggs,
2 tablespoons of melted butter, Salt,
6 " "cream. Pepper.
Beat the the potatoes and butter until smooth and light;
add the cream, yolks of eggs, and salt. Beat the whites to a
stiff froth and stir them in. Heap upon a tin in a rough,
uneven mound (neat, but jagged, so that the tips and
edges, when browned, will look nicely), and set in the oven
until well browned; or bake in a dish that can be sent
to table. Or, use this same mixture to make an edge for
fricassee or curry, using a dish which can go both in the
oven and to the table. NOTE.—2 tablespoonfuls of grated
cheese added to the cream is a great improvement.
POTATOES A LA BRABANgONNE.
POMMES DE TERRE A LA BRABANGONNE.
6 potatoes, mashed, Pepper and salt,
2 tablespoons of chopped ham, Bread-crumbs,
I tablespoon of chopped parsley, Butter,
Yz onion, grated, Cream.
Prepare the Mashed Potatoes as directed (see receipt), add-
ing cream, butter, etc. To this add the ham, parsley, onion,
pepper, and salt. Put the mixture into a fire-proof dish that
can be sent to table. Cover the potatoes with fine bread-
crumbs and dots of butter, and bake 20 minutes, until the
top is nicely browned.


GOOD-LIVING.
FARCIED POT A TOES.
POMMES DE TERRE FARCIES.
6 smooth, medium-sized potatoes, 3 teaspoons of butter,
Salt, pepper, cayenne, 3 " "grated cheese,
I tablespoon of chopped parsley, 3 " "cream.
Milk or cream, I egg.
Wash and bake the potatoes, squeezing often during the
cooking. Cut an end off of each one; scoop out the soft
inside with a teaspoon. Do not break the skins. Set aside
the empty shells. Mash the soft potato very smooth; add
the butter, cream, parsley, chopped as fine as powder; the
salt, pepper, cheese, and a good dash of cayenne. The best
cheese for this purpose is a mixture of equal parts of grated
Parmesan and Gruyere. Put the mixture into a saucepan
with enough good milk or cream to make it quite soft. Stir
over the fire until scalding hot. Remove and stir in the egg,
which has been slightly beaten. Fill the empty potato-shells
with this. Round out the ends; cover the ends with bread-
crumbs, and set in the oven until nicely browned, about 15
minutes.
STEWED POTATOES.
POMMES DE TERRE A I,A POULETTE.
12 potatoes, small, 1 tablespoon of flour,
1 cup of milk, 1 large tablespoon of butter.
Chopped parsley, I egg,
Pepper and salt.
Having previously boiled the potatoes with their skins on
and set away to cool as directed, peel and cut them into dice.
Put into a saucepan with pepper, salt, and milk. Bring to a
boil, then stir in the flour blended with a little cold milk.
Stir carefully, and put on one side where the potatoes can
stew very gently for 15 or 20 minutes, stirring to prevent
scorching. It is safest to cook these over boiling water
{bain-marie). Then add the butter and finely-chopped


POTATOES A LA DIABLB.
273
parsley. Stir these in. When the butter is melted, remove
from the fire and stir in the egg, which has been slightly
beaten. Do not cook after the egg is added. Serve in a
very hot dish for breakfast or luncheon.
POTATOES A LA DELMONICO.
POMMES DE TERRE A LA DELMONICO.
Cold boiled potatoes, I pint of milk,
I heaping tablespoon of flour, I tablespoon of butter,
Pepper and salt, Bread-crumbs.
Having boiled the potatoes and allowed them to cool with
their skins on, slice them quite thin. Blend together over
the fire the butter and flour; draw aside and stir into them
the boiling milk. Boil 3 minutes. Put the potatoes into a
bake-dish ; pour the sauce seasoned with pepper and salt, over
the potatoes. Cover with bread-crumbs and dots of butter,
and bake 15 minutes, or long enough to heat through
thoroughly.
PHILADELPHIA POTATOES.
Prepare according to receipt for Potatoes k la Delmonico,
omitting the bread-crumbs and using instead an egg to cover
the top. Bake as directed.
POT A TOES A LA VIABLE.
POMMES DE TERRE A LA DIABLE.
Potatoes, Lard,
French mustard, Butter.
Cut the potatoes into small rounds with a cutter. Throw
them into ice-cold water. Have ready some boiling lard
deep enough to cover the balls. Dry the potatoes, and
when the lard is boiling, fry them, shaking now and again to
brown evenly. Use a frying-basket if possible. If not, when
the potatoes are done (about 5 minutes), remove them with
18


274
GOOD-LIVING.
a skimmer and drain. Rub up some French mustard with a
large lump of butter. Put it with the potatoes into a sauce-
pan. Shake for a few moments, then turn into a deep dish
with the butter, and serve.
FRICA s£ ED POTATOES.
POMMES DE TERRE, SAUCE BLANCHE.
Having boiled a dozen medium-sized potatoes and left
them to cool with their skins on, peel and cut them in slices
£- of an inch thick. Make a rich Cream Sauce (see receipt).
Stir the potatoes carefully into this. Set over boiling water
to stew for 15 or 20 minutes, stirring to prevent scorching
(use a farina-kettle); then stir in 1 tablespoonful of finely-
chopped parsley, the same of chives, and serve in a hot dish.
CREAM POTATO HASH.
POMMES DE TERRE A LA CREME.
Prepare as above, the sauce being thickened in part with
some of the potato mashed. Use plenty of cream and butter.
Omit the chives and parsley if preferred. The potatoes
should be hashed, or cut in dice of about \ of an inch, and
heated in the sauce as directed.
POTATOES A LA DUCHESSE.
POMMES DE TERRE A LA DUCHESSE.
Prepare the potatoes as directed for Potato Souffle,
adding pepper, a pinch each of salt and sugar, melted
butter, yolks of eggs, and lastly the whites beaten to a stiff
froth. Make the mixture into flat squares; egg the tops and
bake on a tin; placing far enough apart not to touch each
other. Or, spread the mixture in a greased baking-pan to the
depth of I inch. Mark the top neatly with the point of the
knife ; egg it over and brown in the oven ; when done, cut the
cake into rectangular pieces of even size, and use as a garnish
for roast beef, filet, or veal.


POTATO CHIPS.
POT A TOES A LA BOURGEOISE.
POMMES DE TERRE A LA BOURGEOISE.
IO potatoes, medium, Consomme or meat gravy,
3 leeks, sliced fine, Salt and pepper.
Peel and boil the potatoes cut in 4, until about half done,
20 minutes; drain off the water; cover with good stock or
any meat-juice or gravy that may remain from stew or roast.
Add the leeks, pepper, and salt. Cover and set on one side
of the range where they will stew gently for 30 minutes
or more, until the potatoes begin to melt away ; then serve.
This is an excellent dish for family luncheon. The leeks may
be omitted.
POTA TOES A LA HOLLANDAISE.
POMMES DE TERRE A LA HOLLANDAISE.
15 medium-sized potatoes, 3 oz. of butter.
Salt.
Peel the potatoes. Cover them with cold water; add salt,
and bring to a boil. When boiled perfectly tender (about 25
minutes), drain and put into a saucepan with the melted
butter. Cover and set them on the back of the range where
they will not boil. Shake them from time to time, and
when they have absorbed most of the butter and are almost
ready to go to pieces, serve with the butter that remains in
the saucepan, or with Sauce Hollandaise (see receipt).
POTATO CHIPS.
POMMES DE TERRE FRITES.
Slice 2 or 3 medium-sized potatoes just as thin as possible
(there is a plane made for the purpose). As you slice, throw
them into a bowl of water and ice. Let them lie in the
water until freezing cold. Meanwhile have a kettle of lard,
at least 3 inches deep, on the fire. Bring it gradually to a
boil. Test it (see General Directions for Frying). When
the lard is ready, lay the potatoes, a few at a time, in a clean


GOOD-LIVING.
cloth; cover and pat them dry, dropping them quickly intb
the lard, as they must not lose their coldness in handling.
Have at hand a skimmer and keep the slices apart in the lard
while they are cooking. The instant they are light yellow,
skim them out upon a colander set in the mouth of the oven,
putting a plate under to catch any lard that may drip.
Sprinkle evenly with salt. Or the potatoes, when drained,
may be laid upon brown paper in the mouth of the oven.
They will keep for some time in a dry place, but must
always be heated in the mouth of the oven before serving.
Never let them brown. If properly fried, there should not
be an atom of grease upon them. This is the Saratoga way
of cooking potato chips. Serve with beefsteak, etc.
JULIENNE POTATOES.
POMMES DE TERRE A LA JULIENNE.
Peel and cut raw potatoes in long, thin strips. Fry in
boiling lard as directed for Potato Chips. Serve with
beefsteak, etc.
POTATOES A LA PARISIENNE.
POMMES DE TERRE A LA PARISIENNE.
IO potatoes, 4 ounces of butter.
Salt and pepper. Chopped parsley.
Peel the raw potatoes and cut them in balls with a scoop
made for the purpose. Throw them into a bowl of cold
water as you cut them. Then drain them and put into
salted boiling water for 5 minutes. Drain them dry and put
into a frying-pan with the hot butter. Toss them until each
has its share of butter. Set the pan in the oven for a few
minutes until the potatoes are brown; then sprinkle them
with salt and chopped parsley and serve.
Or, having cut them in balls, scalded and well dried as
above, throw them into boiling lard 2 inches deep, and cook
until of an even golden brown; drain on brown paper;
sprinkle with salt and serve.


SWEET POTATO PUREE WITH TOMATO SAUCE. 2Jf
POT A TOES A LA FRANCAISE.
POMMES DE TERRE A LA FRANCHISE.
Peel; cut raw in length, in sections like an orange and throw
in very cold water; dry in a towel and fry in boiling lard until
gold color. Drain on brown paper; sprinkle with salt, and
serve with beefsteak, etc.
BAKED SWEET POTATOES.
PATATES DOUCES.
Wash the potatoes, and put them in the oven. From time
to time open the door, and with a cloth, squeeze them until
tender. The time varies with the size, but is about I hour.
FRIED SWEET POT A TOES.
PATATES DOUCES SAUTEES AU BEURRE.
Cut cold boiled potatoes lengthwise in slices. Fry in very
hot butter till brown. Be careful not to burn. Or, saute
them, as directed for white potatoes.
CARAMEL SWEET POTATOES.
PATATES DOUCES AU CARAMEL.
Fry as above directed; while frying, sprinkle with sugar.
This serves for a simple dessert.
SWEET POT A TO PUREE WITH TO MA TO SA UCE.
PUREE DE PATATES DOUCES, SAUCE TOMATE.
Boil the potatoes, peeled, until tender, about I hour; or,
still better, bake them. Either way will do, but baking in-
creases their sweetness. When soft, remove the skin and
mash them as directed for Sweet Potato Puree. Add a large


2?S
GOOD-LIVING.
lump of butter, and enough milk to make the puree just soft
enough to hold in shape when heaped in a mound. Season
with pepper and salt. Use this to fill the centre of a dish of
veal cutlets, saute or fried, small filets, chops, etc., etc. Serve
in a sauce-boat, at the same time, a rich Tomato Sauce (see
receipt). This is an excellent combination. Sweet potatoes
prepared in this way make a very good substitute for Puree
of Chestnuts.
SWEET POT A TOES ROASTED WITH MEAT.
Peel and wash the potatoes. One hour before the joint is
to be served, lay the potatoes in the pan, and baste from
time to time with the gravy. Dish around the meat, and
serve.
Put 4 to 8 sweet potatoes, according to size, into the oven
to bake, squeezing them with a cloth from time to time until
perfectly soft, about I hour. When done, peel; mash through
a colander. Add a large tablespoonful of butter, the larger
the better;'milk enough to make the puree of the consist-
ency of soft dough. Add a pinch of salt. Butter a tin pie-
plate, or sheet of tin. Arrange the puree in a neat mound.
Beat an egg slightly, and with it brush over the puree. Set
in the oven for 20 to 30 minutes, or until a good brown crust
is formed over the top. The above may also be made with
boiled sweet potatoes, but baking makes them sweeter. Do
not spare the butter.
SWEET POTATO PUR&E BAKED.
Sweet potatoes,
Milk,
1 egg.
Butter,
Salt.
BOILED SWEET POTATOES.
Wash and put them down in boiling water, boiling about
I hour or more, according to size. This vegetable varies so
in size as to make it impossible to fix the time exactly.


BAKED TOMATOES.
FRIED TOMA TOES WITH CREAM.
TOMATES FRITES A LA CREME.
Cut 6 large tomatoes in half, without peeling. Lay them,
skin-side downward, in a pan, in which you have melted a
large tablespoonful of butter and sweet drippings mixed.
Fry slowly until tender. Three tablespoonfuls of boiling
water may be added to the pan at first, as it will steam off
and make the tomatoes more tender, without blackening
them, as if cooked with butter alone. When tender, remove
the tomatoes to a hot dish ; let the butter brown a little, with
a tablespoonful of flour stirred into it. When brown, draw
aside and stir into it £- pint of boiling milk, stirring and
blending until smooth. Stir and boil 3 minutes, then pour
this over the tomatoes, adding salt and cayenne to taste.
This is not a pretty dish, but is excellent. If the top of the
range is occupied, the pan of tomatoes may be set in the
oven, with equally good results.
BAKED TOMATOES.
TOMATES FARCIES.
Select medium-sized smooth tomatoes for this purpose.
Cut a slice from the stem end. With a spoon scoop out all
the seeds and centre, taking care not to break the outer
walls. Drain off the water from the inside that has been
removed. Take sufficient bread-crumbs to fill the cavities
thus made. Chop about 1 tablespoonful of parsley very
fine; mix it with the crumbs, adding plenty of salt and pep-
per. Melt a large tablespoonful of butter in the frying-pan;
stir in the bread-crumbs and the solid part of the tomato
centres. Stir them until well mixed, 5 minutes; then fill
the tomatoes, heaping a little above the edge; sprinkle with
bread-crumbs; put a small lump of butter on each; set in a
baking-pan, with a small lump of butter, and bake in a
moderate oven 1 hour to 1 hour and 15 minutes.


28o
GOOD-LIVING.
STUFFED TOMA TOES A LA HEINE.
TOMATES FARCIES A LA REINE.
^ pound of white meat, chicken, veal,
I tablespoon of vinegar,
1 saltspoon of salt,
Pinch of sugar,
Cayenne to taste,
I onion, grated,
or lamb,
Bulk of meat in bread-crumbs,
I heaping tablespoon of chopped pars-
ley,
I heaping tablespoon of chopped ham,
12 medium-sized tomatoes.
Chop the meat very fine; add stale bread-crumbs; then
all the other seasonings, reserving the egg. Cut the stem
end from the tomatoes; scoop out all the soft part with a
small spoon, being careful not to break the outer walls.
Drain the fruity part of the tomato and mix it with the
stuffing. Chop all together very fine. Have the empty
tomatoes in a tin pan with a small lump of butter. Put a
lump of butter into the frying-pan, and, when hot, put in the
dressing and stir it over a sharp fire, taking care not to burn.
Remove from the fire. If not as soft as a very thick custard,
add a little broth. When slightly cool, beat in the egg and
fill the tomatoes with the mixture. Cover the tops with
bread-crumbs and dots of butter; bake about 30 minutes.
Serve as a separate entree, or with chicken or veal.
STUFFED TOMA TOES WITH TOMA TO SA UCE.
TOMATES FARCIES A L'ECARLATE.
Having prepared the tomatoes as directed for Stuffed
Tomatoes a la Reine, make a rich Tomato Sauce (see
receipt), to which add about 1 gill of sherry. Serve the
tomatoes neatly dished and garnished, with the sauce in a
sauce-boat, as an entree.
TOMA TOES ROASTED WITH BEEF OR VEAL.
Select tomatoes of uniform size. Wash; cut out the stem
end; sprinkle with pepper and salt and place in the pan with


TOMATOES SCALLOPED.
28l
roasting beef or veal 1 hour before the meat is to be done.
If very small, allow a little less time. Baste frequently, and
dish around the meat.
STEWED TOMATOES.
Wash the tomatoes, then throw boiling water over them;
let stand for 5 minutes, and the skins will slip off easily. Cut
off the stem end; divide in 2 or 4, and throw into a china-
lined kettle. Set on the fire uncovered. In about an hour,
ladle out all the juice and set it aside to serve for soup (see
Tomato Soup or Okra Gumbo). Add to this 1 onion cut in
4. Simmer for about 1 or 2 hours longer. They must cook
very slowly. Now drain off all superfluous juice; add a
lump of butter, pepper, salt, and, if the tomatoes are very
acid, a pinch of sugar; serve. This is certainly the best way
to stew tomatoes, but is rather extravagant, unless at the
height of the season, as it takes about a peck of tomatoes to
make a good dishful stewed. After cooking 2 hours, be
careful not to let them cook rapidly or scorch, or they will
acquire a bitterish taste from the seeds. A good way also
is, after scalding and peeling as above, to put them in a
china-lined kettle, uncovered, draining off after the first
hour; add a good handful of stale bread-crumbs, ^ of a
chopped onion, pepper and salt. The bread-crumbs being
cooked for quite an hour longer with the tomatoes absorb a
great deal of the superfluous juice, and become more like the
fruit itself than any other thickening. The bread-crumbs
must be very stale and dry. The usual system of using
flour or corn-starch is not recommended. When ready to
serve, add a lump of butter, pepper, and salt.
TOMATOES SCALLOPED.
Scald and skin enough tomatoes to fill a quart baking-dish.
Lay a layer of these tomatoes in the bottom of the dish.
Cover with a thick layer of bread-crumbs, dots of butter,
pepper, and salt. Another layer of tomatoes; then finish


282
GOOD-LIVING.
the top with a second layer of bread-crumbs closely packed,
dotted over with butter, sprinkled with pepper and salt.
Set in a slow oven for I hour to I hour and 15 minutes,
until browned and baked down. As tomatoes are about 90
per cent, water, they must always be steamed off in cooking
or have the liquid absorbed in some way. Canned tomatoes
may be cooked according to the above receipt, using only
the solid fruit, and cooking about 45 minutes, perhaps less,
in a quicker oven than the above.
TOM A TOES STUFFED WITH MUSHROOMS.
TOMATES FARCIES AUX CHAMPIGNONS.
See receipt for Braised Filet of Beef with Farcied Toma-
toes.
TOMATO SOUFFLE.
TOMATES EN SOUFFLE.
Stew down the tomatoes as directed, draining off the
liquid; press the fruit through a coarse sieve. To about 2
gills of this pulp allow 3 eggs. Beat the yolks and whites
apart; mix the yolks with the pulp; season with pepper and
salt; then, at the last moment, add the whites beaten to a
stiff froth. Fill buttered china souffle-cases with the mixture
not more than £ full, and bake in a quick oven for 6 to 10
minutes. Or heat a bake-dish large enough to hold all the
souffle, and bake it in a very quick oven for about 10 to 15
minutes. Watch carefully and serve immediately. For
detailed directions for baking, see Omelette Souffle.
TO MA TO-RICE.
RIZ AUX TOMATES.
Stew the tomatoes as directed; press through a coarse
sieve. To about 2 gills of this sauce allow 1 gill of rice;
wash and boil 20 minutes. Drain the rice thoroughly and


MUSHROOMS.
283
mix with the sauce, adding salt, pepper, and a pinch of sugar,
if the tomatoes are acid. Set the saucepan on one side
where it can stew gently, uncovered, for 15 or 20 minutes.
Take care that it does not scorch. Add a small lump of
butter, and when it is melted, serve. Do not stir the rice
around; lift it from the bottom with a fork to mix it. If the
pulp of the fruit is used in the preparation of this dish, it
will be found to be much richer than the common fashion
of using the juice of the tomato alone for the purpose.
TOMATOES WITH MACARONI.
MACARONI AUX TOMATES.
Prepare according to the receipt for Macaroni a la Mila-
naise, omitting the ham and cheese.
MUSHROOMS.
GENERAL REMARKS.
It is of primary importance in the choice of mushrooms to
beware of the false ones, as they very closely resemble the
edible ones. Never eat those that grow in shady, woody
spots; but give preference, on the contrary, to those that
grow in the broad field and open sunshine. Gather them as
soon after sunrise as possible. They should be snowy-white
on top, and pale-pink in the gills underneath, if very young,
but becoming from brown to black in the gills as the day
advances and they grow older. It is no detriment to them
to have spread open; these are best for broiling, while the
"button mushrooms" serve for other ways of cooking. The
safest mushrooms are those that are raised in mushroom-
houses. Those in the field should only be culled by persons
who know and understand them. The skin of a good mush-
room should peel off easily; yet all mushrooms that do peel
easily are not necessarily good; on the other hand, there are
some very terrible-looking ones, which are in reality perfectly


284
GOOb-LIVWG.
innocuous, such as the morille, which is much used in France,
and often dried. There are also " puff balls," which, though
very alarming in appearance, make perfectly good and safe
eating. But the point of the whole thing is this: do not
trust your own judgment about them unless you have had
experience. The only test that appears to exist is the old-
fashioned one of the silver spoon, which, it is said, will dis-
color in cooking if the mushrooms are poisonous.
BROILED MUSHROOMS.
CHAMPIGNONS GRILLES.
Select the largest mushrooms that are to be had. Peel.
Cut the stalks \ an inch from the tops. Baste well with
melted butter, sprinkle lightly with pepper and salt. Heat
the broiler very hot; lay the mushrooms upon it with the
upper side down; close it carefully, that the mushrooms may
not be broken, and broil them over a clear fire, turning the
broiler first on one side, then on the other. As soon as ten-
der, which will be in about 5 minutes, open the broiler,
remove the mushrooms carefully to trimmed and well-but-
tered slices of toast, or thin bread fried in butter. Moisten
with melted butter, and serve.
FRIED MUSHROOMS.
CHAMPIGNONS SAUTES A L'HUILE.
Peel large, hot-house mushrooms, measuring 4 to 6 inches
across, and cut the stalks close. Have ready in a frying-pan
some sweet oil, pepper, and salt. When hot, put in the
mushrooms and fry until thoroughly heated, about 5 min-
utes, perhaps less. Too much cooking will toughen them.
Serve on neatly-trimmed and buttered slices of thin toast,
putting 1 teaspoonful of wine, white or sherry, on each
mushroom.


PLAIN STEWED MUSHROOMS.
285
MUSHROOMS STEWED WITH CREAM.
CHAMPIGNONS SAUTES A LA CREME.
I p1nt of fresh mushrooms,
Flour,
I egg-yolk,
Salt,
1 tablespoon of butter,
2 tablespoons of thick cream,
I tablespoon of sherry,
Pepper.
Peel the mushrooms and scrape the stems. Cut off the
earthy ends of the stalks. Wash in cold water. Put into a
china-lined saucepan. Cut the butter into 4 parts; roll each
in flour, and put into the saucepan. Simmer for 15 minutes,
stirring occasionally; then add the cream, salt, and pepper.
Bring to a boil. Remove from the fire and stir in the yolk
of egg beaten with the sherry. Serve immediately in a deep,
hot dish.
Drain the mushrooms. Put the butter into a china-lined
saucepan; when melted, stir in the flour; rub smooth; add
the boiling milk and stir until it boils 2 minutes. Add the
mushrooms, salt, and pepper, and stir only until thoroughly
heated. Remove from the fire; stir in the egg beaten with
the wine; then serve on neatly trimmed and buttered slices
of toast, or on thin slices of bread fried in butter. In cook-
ing canned mushrooms, do not boil them, as they are already
cooked, and only require to be heated.
TO STEW CANNED MUSHROOMS.
1 can of mushrooms,
Yolk of I egg,
2 gills of milk, or cream,
Salt,
I tablespoon of butter,
t " "sherry,
I " "(four,
Pepper.
PLAIN STEWED MUSHROOMS.
CHAMPIGNONS SAUTES, NATURE.
I pint of fresh mushrooms, 1 tablespoon of butter,
Salt and pepper, Flour or corn-starch.
Peel the tops of the mushrooms; scrape the stalks, cutting
off the earthy ends. Throw them in cold water as you peel


286
GOOD.LIVING.
them. Take them out of the water with your hands, letting
all the water drip from them, but do not dry them. Put
them in a china-lined saucepan on the fire. Rub the butter
up with about a teaspoonful of flour, or a little less corn-
starch; when the mushrooms begin to stew, stir in the
butter; stew gently for about 15 minutes, if you have used
flour; if you use corn-starch, add it 3 minutes before the
mushrooms are to be served. Add salt and pepper, and
serve.
BAKED MUSHROOMS.
Select large mushrooms. Peel. Cut off the stalks half an
inch from the top. Place them with the upper side down in
a pie-dish; sprinkle with salt and pepper; put a small piece
of butter on each. Bake in a quick oven 10 to 15 minutes,
until tender, basting frequently with melted butter. Add a
few drops of lemon-juice. Serve hot on the same dish.
•
MUSHROOMS A LA BORDELAISE.
CHAMPIGNONS A LA BORDELAISE.
I pound of best mushrooms, I tablespoon of oil,
12 whole pepper-corns, Pinch of salt.
Peel the mushrooms; scrape the stalks; wash; remove
the earthy ends; drain and cut in even pieces. Put them
into a bowl with the oil, salt, and black pepper-corns. Let
them stand 2 hours. Melt a piece of butter the size of a
hickory-nut in a saucepan. Now drain out the mushrooms;
put them into the saucepan with the butter and stew for 6
minutes. Meanwhile, prepare the sauce as follows:
3 tablespoons of oil, I teaspoon of chopped parsley,
I clove of garlic, crushed and chopped, I " chopped chives.
Put these ingredients into a saucepan; stir over the fire
for five minutes ;' then pour the sauce over the mushrooms,
and serve on large Croutons fried in butter (see receipt).


TO SOIL ASPARAGUS.
287
SCALLOPED MUSHROOMS.
COQUILLES DE CHAMPIGNONS.
Cut the mushrooms if too large, after peeling them and
trimming the stalks. Throw them for a few minutes into
boiling water, then drain and throw into cold water to whiten
them. Dry well and saute in hot butter for 3 minutes.
Then add, when almost done, a teaspoon of flour and some
chopped parsley. Stir, and in 3 minutes add a cupful of
boiling broth. Let it simmer very gently for about 10 min-
utes. Add lemon-juice, salt, and pepper. Remove from
the fire and stir in the yolk of an egg beaten up with a few
drops of cold water or 2 teaspoonfuls of sherry. Fill shells
with this mixture; cover the top with bread-crumbs; dot
with butter; set in the oven until thoroughly hot, and serve.
TO BOIL ASPARAGUS.
ASPERGES EN BRANCHES.
Scrape the coaree skin from each blade, throwing it into
cold water as it is done. Then tie securely in a bunch with
tapes or strips of muslin. Make the tips even, and cut the
lower ends all of one length. Have ready an asparagus-
boiler with boiling water and about £ a teaspoonful of
salt. Lay the asparagus on the drainer, and set it in the
boiler. In 18 or 20 minutes after it comes again to a boil,
the asparagus should be tender. Be careful that it does not
boil too soft. Remove the drainer, and not only drain the
asparagus very thoroughly, but steam off all the moisture as
well as you can. Have ready some thin slices of toast, but-
tered and trimmed. Lay the bunch of asparagus on these;
then remove the strings. Serve in a sauce-boat apart, a
Cream Sauce, or a White Sauce (see receipts), adding a few
drops of lemon-juice or vinegar to the latter. A delicious
sauce for asparagus is made thus: Take 1 yolk of hard-
boiled egg for each person. Mash it to a powder; add a
little salt and pepper, and rub into it enough melted butter


288
GOOD-LIVING.
to make it as thick as mayonnaise. Or, again, you may
serve plain melted butter in a sauce-boat; but avoid if pos-
sible the prevailing fashion of serving asparagus looking
like modified milk-toast, with drawn butter poured over it.
N. B.—Take note that the asparagus (as indeed all boiled
vegetables) should be drained dry.
SPRUE AND EGGS (ENGLISH RECEIPT).
Having cut 2 bunches of asparagus in 1-inch pieces,
using the tender parts only, boil it in 2 quarts of boiling
water with \ an ounce of salt for about 10 minutes, until
tender. Drain thoroughly. Take 3 eggs; beat yolks and
whites apart; add to the yolks 1 tablespoonful of milk
or cream, 1 teaspoonful of butter, salt, and pepper; mix
these with the asparagus. Stir in the whites; put into a
saucepan, and cook just long enough to heat them through;
then serve in a deep dish with a border of large Croutons
(see receipt).
Cut the tender parts of the asparagus into pieces about
I inch long, and throw them into cold water. Have ready
a saucepan with 2 quarts of boiling water and \ an ounce
of salt. Drain the asparagus and throw it into the boiling
water. Boil rapidly until tender, about 10 minutes. Drain
very thoroughly, and return to the fire with the butter, salt,
pepper, nutmeg, sugar, and Cream Sauce (see receipt). Stir
carefully, that you may not break the asparagus; when
scalding hot, serve on neatly trimmed rounds of thin, buttered
toast.
N. B.—Use the coarse ends of the asparagus for Asparagus
Soup (see receipt).
STEWED ASPARAGUS TIPS.
ASPERGES EN PETITS-POIS.
4 bunches of green asparagus,
% ounce of salt,
6 tablespoons of Cream Sauce,
I level saltspoon of sugar,
2 quarts of boiling water,
2 ounces of butter,
Pinch of grated nutmeg,
Salt and pepper.


GREEN PEAS.
289
TO BOIL GREEN PEAS.
PETITS-POIS.
Shell young peas into a bowl of cold water. When ready
to cook them, have a large kettle of boiling water on the
fire. Drain the peas and put them into the kettle. Do not
put on the lid. Let them cook rapidly for about 20 minutes.
Try 1 or 2; if not tender then, let them boil a little longer.
The moment they are tender, remove them from the fire.
Drain off the water; add a very large lump of sweet, fresh
butter, a dash of pepper, salt, and (if the peas are not of the
sweetest) a pinch of sugar. Set them in a warm place until
the butter melts, and serve very hot.
N. B.—Boiling uncovered preserves the color.
If the peas are fresh and good, they will require no more
dressing than the above. When they begin to be older and
less sweet, prepare them according to the following receipts.
A head of lettuce may be added to the above if liked.
STEWED PEAS.
PETITS-POIS SAUTES.
I quart of peas, 3 ounces of butter,
I ounce of chopped onion, ^ ounce of sugar,
Salt, I gill of water, boiling.
Cover closely, and stew very gently for 35 minutes. When
tender, add the butter; toss it well with the peas and serve
as soon as it melts.
N. B.—In this case the color must be sacrificed (by
covering), as older peas are used and they must be cooked
in such a way as to make them tender.
GREEN PEAS.
PETITS-POIS.
Shell the peas. Select the youngest. Throw them into
cold water. Put the pods in a kettle with boiling water,
*9


290
GOOD-LIVING.
and boil 30 minutes. Strain the water off and return it to
the fire in the kettle. Bring to a boil. Drain out the peas
(they should be of uniform size) and throw them into the boil-
ing liquid. Do not put on the lid. Boil for 20 to 30 minutes,
until the peas are tender. Remove them from the fire the
very moment they are tender enough. Drain off all but
I gill of the liquid; add a large lump of butter, pepper, salt,
a pinch of sugar, and 2 tablespoonfuls of cream. If liked, a
pinch of flour may be also added, stirred, and boiled 3
minutes. Pour over the peas and serve. A head of lettuce
may be added to the above.
Wash the peas in cold water; put them in a saucepan
with cold water. Bring it to a boil. If canned, boil 20
minutes; if dried, 2 hours or more, until tender. When
done, the water should be almost absorbed. When tender,
press through a colander. Meanwhile put the milk on to boil
in a farina-kettle with the bay-leaf, chopped onion, cloves,
parsley, and ham. Rub the butter and flour together until
smooth. When the milk has boiled 20 minutes, strain it into
the peas; then put the whole back into the farina-kettle;
stir in the flour and butter and continue to stir until it
thickens and boils 3 minutes. Add salt and pepper and
serve with veal cutlets or small filets, mutton chops, etc., etc.
Puree of limas or other fresh beans may be made 1n the
same way.
N. B.—If dried peas are used, soak overnight; if the
water boils off too much before they are tender, add more,
very little at a time.
PUREE OF PEAS.
puree de pois.
I pint of dried peas or 2 pint cans,
I tablespoon of butter,
l" " "flour,
I pint of milk,
I " "water,
Salt,
I sprig of parsley,
pound of ham,
Pepper.
1 bay-leaf,
2 cloves,
I onion,


CAULIFLOWER AU GRATIN.
2QI
TO BOIL CAULIFLOWER,
CHOU-FLEUR.
Trim off the outside leaves, leaving 1 row around the
flower. Cut an X in the stalk. Have a large pot of boiling
water on the fire. Add enough milk to whiten the water;
also one level teaspoonful of salt. The cauliflower should
be left in vinegar and water for 20 to 30 minutes before
boiling: this system is supposed to draw out any insects that
may lurk within. Drain it thoroughly; tie it loosely in a
piece of cheese-cloth large enough to cover it entirely. Put
it into the boiling water, which must cover it well. Let it
boil until quite tender, but be careful that it does not go to
pieces. As cauliflowers vary very much in size, only a gen. ,
eral idea of the time required can be given. One of ordi-
nary size will take about 40 minutes, perhaps more. When
cooked, lift it out by the cheese-cloth, drain very thoroughly,
and set in a round dish. Make a Cream Sauce (sec receipt);
pour it over the cauliflower; cover, and let it stand for a few
minutes for the sauce to penetrate. Then serve. Or, if a
handsome specimen, successfully boiled, serve it in a round
dish with a White Sauce served separately in a sauce-boat.
Add a squeeze of lemon-juice to the sauce before serving.
Small cauliflowers will not require more than 30 minutes to
boil.
CAULIFLOWER AU GRATIN.
CHOU-FLEUR AU GRATIN.
Boil the cauliflower as directed. Set it in a round baking-
dish which can be sent to table. For a moderate-sized cauli-
flower make 1 pint of Cream Sauce (see receipt). Add to
the sauce 2 heaping tablespoons each of grated Parmesan
and Gruyere cheese, and a dash of cayenne.. Mix the sauce
and pour it over the cauliflower, letting it penetrate all the.
crevices. Cover the top with fine, grated bread-crumbs, dot
with butter, and bake 20 minutes. Serve in the same dish.


292
GOOD-LIVING.
BOILED CAULIFLOWER TOMATO SAUCE.
CHOU-FLEUR, SAUCE TOMATE.
Having boiled a medium-sized cauliflower very carefully as
directed, place it on a round dish, after having thoroughly
drained it. Have ready a rich Tomato Sauce (see receipt);
pour it around, not over, the cauliflower, and serve as a sep-
arate course. This is a very pretty dish. Recommended.
BROCCOLI.
Prepare according to the receipts given for cauliflower.
WINTER CABBAGE.
CHOU.
Cut in 4; lay in salted cold water for a little while, trim-
ming off the outer leaves and stalk. Drain well, and put
into a large pot of boiling water, allowing £ an ounce of salt
to the gallon. Boil very gently, covered, for 10 minutes, then
remove from the fire; drain off the water; re-cover with salted
boiling water as before, and boil for I hour or more until
tender. Do not cover the pot after the first 10 minutes.
Drain very dry ; dress with melted butter, pepper, and salt;
or chop it coarsely and cover with a rich Cream Sauce (see
receipt). If boiled when cut like cold-slaw, it will only
require about 30 minutes. Drain and dress as above.
SUMMER CABBAGE.
CHOU.
Cut in 2 or 4. Lay in salted cold water to draw out any
insects that may lurk inside. Drain thoroughly and put into
a pot of salted boiling water. Do not cover. Boil 30 to 40
minutes, until tender. Drain very dry in a colander, pressing
the water out with a plate. Dress with melted butter,
pepper, and salt, or with Cream Sauce (see receipt).
N. B.—To avoid the unpleasant odor caused by cooking
cabbage, use a very large pot and do not fill it too near the


BRUSSELS SPKOUTS.
293
brim with the water, as it is the boiling over which causes
the disagreeable odor. Another way of overcoming this
trouble is also suggested, which is to put into the water
a piece of bread tied in a fine white rag. After it has been
15 minutes in the pot, remove it and throw it immediately
into the fire to burn, as, in its turn, it becomes very un-
pleasant.
STEWED CABBAGE AND CELERY.
Cut into shreds equal quantities of cabbage and celery.
Lay for a few minutes in cold water, then drain and put into
salted boiling water. Boil gently for 20 or 30 minutes,
according to the season. Meanwhile prepare a rich Cream
Sauce (see receipt). Drain the cabbage and celery as dry as
possible, and stir into the cream sauce. Let it stew very
gently for 10 minutes, and serve. Recommended.
STEWED CABBAGE.
Cut the cabbage like coarse cold-slaw. Add a small piece
of red pepper (without seeds) and parboil it 10 minutes
in salted boiling water. Drain dry. Add 3 or 4 table-
spoonfuls of vinegar, a lump of butter, and 2 large table-
spoonfuls of stock. Cover closely and simmer gently for
about 30 minutes, until perfectly tender. Add salt and
pepper, and serve.
BRUSSELS SPROUTS.
CHOUX DE BRUXELLES.
Pick these over carefully, rejecting all the loose, hanging
leaves. Throw them into cold salted water for at least 15
minutes to draw out any lurking insects. Have ready on
the fire a large pot of boiling water with a little salt in it.
Having drained the sprouts, put them into the boiling
water. Do not put on the lid. Boil 12 to 15 or even 20
minutes, just long enough for the sprouts to be tender all


294
GOOD-LIVING.
through, but by no means soft enough to go to pieces.
Drain them. Now hold them in the colander under the
cold-water faucet, and let the cold water dash over them,
then drain very thoroughly, and return to a china-lined
saucepan with a large lump of butter, pepper, and salt. Set
on one side of the range where it will warm very gently
without danger of burning. When well heated, serve in a
hot dish.
The above mode of treatment is supposed to preserve the
color of the sprouts without using any chemicals; its recom-
mendation is that the idea comes from the native land of
Brussels sprouts.
CANNED VEGETABLES.
When possible, these should always be rinsed in cold
water, allowing the stream of water to dash over and through
them. Then drain and dress to taste. This removes the
taste of the tin can and freshens the vegetables.
SUMMER SQUASH.
It is recommended, instead of peeling and boiling white
squash, to cut it in sections, removing the seeds and leaving
the peel on, and bake it in the oven. Baste with butter or
sweet drippings, and sprinkle with pepper, salt and chopped
parsley before serving. To boil it, peel, remove the seeds,
cut in medium-sized pieces, barely cover it with boiling
water, and boil until tender. Dry it very thoroughly. Mash
it through a colander; add a large lump of butter, pepper,
and salt, and serve. If will require about 20 minutes to boil.
The long-necked, white, summer squash is delicious if cut
and fried exactly like egg-plant or cucumbers. The narrow
end is best done in this way.
TURK'S HEAD SQUASH A U GRATIN.
Bake this as directed above; rub the soft part through the
colander; mix with it a little cream, pepper, and salt. Put


CORN PUDDING AS A VEGETABLE 29.5
it into a deep dish ; cover the top with grated Parmesan and
bread-crumbs and bake in the oven for about 10 minutes
until nicely browned. Serve in the same dish.
STUFFED PEPPERS.
PIMENTS FARCIS.
6 green sweet peppers, Bunch of parsley,
Stale bread-crumbs, Ham,
I cup of stewed tomatoes. Salt,
I grated onion, Broth.
Cut the stems out very neatly to make the tops. Empty the
insides of the peppers, being careful to get rid of every seed.
Be certain the peppers are not of the hot kind, which are
frequently sold by mistake for the sweet. (If they are hot,
they must be laid in strong salt and water for 24 hours
before using. This will take out some of the strong taste.)
Make a dressing of equal bulks of ham and stale bread-
crumbs, to which add the parsley, onion, and tomatoes.
Chop all very fine. In seasoning, only add pepper if re-
quired. Fill the peppers with the dressing. Cover them
with the stems, from which you have carefully removed all
the white part. Place them in a saucepan just large enough
to hold them closely packed, stem end uppermost. Pour
over broth enough to cover them a little more than \, and
simmer very gently for 1£ hours. Remove them carefully
to a hot dish. Boil down the gravy briskly for a few min-
utes, thickening it slightly with a pinch of corn-starch
blended with cold water. Stir; boil 3 minutes; pour over
the peppers; serve.
CORN PUDDING AS A VEGETABLE.
I dozen grated ears of corn, I cup of milk or cream,
I tablespoon of brown sugar, Salt to taste.
Mix. Bake 1 hour.
This is a Southern receipt and very good.


296
GOOD-LIVING.
BAKED GREEN-CORN PUDDING.
12 ears of corn scored and scraped,
I pint of new milk,
Salt and pepper.
2 ounces of butter,
2 eggs,
Mix and bake 45 minutes. Use less milk if the corn
yields a great deal.
Strip off the husk and silk entirely; or, strip off all the
husk except 1 inner row of leaves, removing every thread of
the silk. Either way is good. Have ready a large pot of
boiling water. Never put salt into the water for boiling
corn; it hardens the outer coating of the grains, making
them often shrivelled and yellow, besides being much more
indigestible. Put the corn in the pot; cover and boil rap-
idly for about 20 minutes (for large-sized ears) ; then set the
pot, with the corn in it, upon the hearth and let it stand for
IO or 15 minutes. Then drain; strip off the leaves, and
serve in a napkin folded to cover them. There are made, at
present, extremely dainty, embroidered corn-cloths for this
purpose, the shape being well designed for covering the corn
and keeping it hot.
Score the corn and press out all the grains with the back
of a knife ; this is much better than grating. Beat the eggs,
whites and yolks apart, until very light. Add first the yolks
to the corn, then the whites, salt, cayenne, and flour ; mix
lightly and thoroughly. Have 2 tablespoonfuls of mixed
lard and butter in the frying-pan. When very hot, drop the
mixture into the pan by small spoonfuls. Brown I side,
then turn with a cake-turner, and brown the other. Be sure
TO BOIL CORN.
CORN OYSTERS.
2 heaping tablespoons of flour,
Yi teaspoon of salt,
Cayenne,
12 ears of corn,
2 eggs,
Butter and lard for frying.


EGG-PLANT BAKED WITH BREAD-CRUMBS. 297
the lard is very hot before you put in the batter, or the
oysters will be greasy. Drain on brown paper in the mouth
of the oven, and serve on a cut paper or folded napkin.
Scrape the corn as described above. Mix all together,
adding enough flour to make a rather stiff batter. Drop by
the teaspoonful into deep boiling lard (see General Direc-
tions for Frying). The lard should be deep enough to float
the fritters. If they spread too much, after testing I or 2,
add a little more flour. They should puff like doughnuts.
Drain dry; serve on a cut paper or folded napkin.
N. B.—If the corn yields much milk in scraping, add
less than designated in the receipt.
EGG-PLANT BAKED WITH BREAD-CRUMBS.
AUBERGINE A LA CREOLE.
Peel the egg-plant and cut it into inch dice. Put it into a
saucepan with about 1 gill of boiling water. Simmer very
gently until tender, but not entirely done, 10 to 15 minutes.
Then throw it into a colander and drain as dry as possible,
squeezing out the water with a saucer. Meanwhile, fry the
onions in butter; when the egg-plant is thoroughly drained,
remove the saucepan and onions from the fire, and stir in
the egg-plant, parsley, pepper, salt, and vinegar, and as much
butter as you can spare, about 2 heaping tablespoonfuls. If
the egg-plant has been properly dried, it will absorb the but-
CORN FRITTERS.
Corn cut from 7 ears, I pint of milk,
I egg beaten together, Salt and pepper,
Flour, Lard for frying,
I teaspoon of baking-powder to each cup of flour.
1 young and tender egg-plant,
1 tablespoon of chopped parsley,
I " "vinegar,
Pepper,
2 onions, grated,
Butter,
Bread-crumbs,
Salt.


298 QOOD-LIVINC.
ter entirely. Put into a baking-dish; cover the top with
browned bread-crumbs and dots of butter, and bake 20 to
25 minutes in a good oven. There should be nearly 1
quart of the stewed egg-plant for the above proportions;
therefore, if you have not 1 large egg-plant, use 2 or more
smaller ones. Delicious.
STUFFED EGG-PLANT.
AUBERGINE FARCIE.
Prepare exactly as Stuffed Cucumbers (see receipt), only
do not put the sides together, but round them up with the
stuffing. Cover the tops with bread-crumbs; set them in a
bake-pan, with a lump of butter and 4 tablespoonfuls of
boiling water. Bake for about 1 hour, or perhaps a little
less, until the egg-plant is tender, which fact you can ascer-
tain by slipping a narrow knife into the inner edge of the
egg-plant. If the oven is too quick, cover the egg-plant
with a piece of thick paper or with a tin pie-plate until a
few minutes before it is done. Remove the egg-plant to a
dish and set in warm place. Put the pan on the top of the
range; add about 2 gills of broth; stir, and when boiling,
add a pinch of corn-starch blended with a little cold water.
Stir and boil for 3 minutes, and serve in a sauce-boat with
the egg-plant. Or, prepare the inside of the egg-plant
according to the receipt for Baked Egg-plant; fill the
shells with this mixture; cover with bread-crumbs; dot with
butter, and bake from 30 to 45 minutes, until the egg-plant
is tender. Serve as an entree.
FRIED EGG-PLANT.
AUBERGINE FRITE.
I young egg-plant, I egg,
Flour, Lard.
Under this head, it is well to make an effort to dispel an
old-fashioned idea which seems to have taken possession of
the general mind on the subject of this vegetable. Every
one, with scarcely an exception, will prepare an egg-plant


STEWED CUCUMBERS.
299
for frying by carefully cutting it into slices, and piling these,
with salt between the layers, putting a plate and heavy
weight on the top. It has been satisfactorily proved by ex-
perience that this elaborate operation is perfectly unneces-
sary. If the egg-plant is not too ripe, or not touched by
the frost, it will never be bitter; if, on the other hand, it is
bitter, all the salting and all the pressing you can give it will
not remove the bitterness. Therefore, spare yourself the
trouble of the above-described process until you have
proved by a counter-experience that it is indispensable. I
have brought in an egg-plant with only time to cook it for
the dinner, and it has been sweeter than others which have
been under treatment for hours. The bitterness comes
entirely from the vegetable being over-ripe or frosted.
Pick out a young egg-plant. Do not be tempted by the
size of the extra-large, handsome ones. They are very
often bitter. The egg-plant should be firm and glossy pur-
ple. Peel it, if you like. If it is very tender, it is best to
leave the peel on, as this helps to keep the slices from break-
ing. Cut it in slices about \ of an inch thick. Dip these
first in beaten egg and then in flour. Have ready in the
pan a little boiling lard. When you are certain that it is
boiling, lay in the slices of egg-plant. Do not cook too
quickly. In 2 or 3 minutes turn the slices with a cake-
turner and brown on the second side. Watch it carefully,
as it scorches very easily. Do not use butter for the frying,
as it blackens before the egg-plant is cooked. When the
egg-plant is tender, remove the slices with the cake-turner;
lay them on paper in the mouth of the oven. When dry,
serve on an open platter. If covered, it will lose all its
crispness and become limp. Sprinkle with salt and pepper
and serve.
STEWED CUCUMBERS.
CONCOMBRES A LA CREME.
For this mode of cooking, riper cucumbers may be used
than for eating raw, for the coarse, hard seeds may be re-


3oo
GOOb-LIVING.
moved. Peel the cucumbers; cut them in quarters. If old,
remove the seeds. Lay the cucumbers in boiling water
until transparent. Make a rich Cream Sauce (see receipt),
to which add about \ a grated onion. When ready, drain
the cucumbers dry and lay them in the sauce. Stew gently
over boiling water for about 15 minutes ; then dish ; sprinkle
chopped parsley over the top and serve. A teaspoonful of
chopped chives added with the parsley may take the place
of the grated onion.
FRIED CUCUMBERS.
CONCOMBRES FRITS.
Cucumbers, Fine dry bread-crumbs,
I egg, Lard.
The cucumbers for this may be a little riper than those to
be eaten raw. Peel. Slice them across if large, lengthwise
if small. Do not use any that have hard seeds. Dip first
in egg, then bread-crumbs. Set aside in the ice-box for 1
hour. Have ready the lard heated to boiling point (see
General Directions for Frying). When you are certain that
it is boiling, lay in the slices of cucumber. In about 3 min-
utes, turn them. In about 3 minutes more, when tender,
remove to a brown paper in the mouth of the oven. When
dry, serve on an open platter.
STUFFED CUCUMBERS.
CONCOMBRES FARCIS.
For this, use large, ripe cucumbers. Peel. Split them in
two in length, and remove the seeds. Make a dressing as
for Stuffed Peppers (see receipt), or a force-meat of chicken
or veal and ham (see Force-meats). Fill the cavity left in
the cucumbers with the dressing. Put the two sides to-
gether again, and tie securely; or each side may be rounded
up with the dressing and covered with crumbs. Lay them


CUCUMBERS A LA POULETTE.
30t
in a saucepan, with about 2 gills of broth. Set them where
they will simmer very gently, for about I hour, until tender.
Remove them to a hot dish. Set the saucepan over the
fire; add 2 gills more of broth to it; boil down briskly for
a few minutes. Thicken slightly with a pinch of corn-
starch, blended with a little cold water. Stir and boil for
2 minutes; pour it around the cucumbers, and serve.
DRESSED CUCUMBERS.
CONCOMBRES EN SALADE. >
Select very young cucumbers. Bury them in the ice for
long enough to chill them thoroughly through; or, if hur-
ried, put them in a pan with ice and salt, with their skins on.
Leave them until the very latest moment before using; then
peel; slice them just as thin as possible, and, at the moment
of serving, add vinegar, salt, and cayenne; add also oil, if
liked. Do not let them stand in the dressing. If the above
rules are strictly and literally followed, you will find that
cucumbers are far less indigestible than is generally be-
lieved. They should never be allowed to stand and wilt in
the dressing.
CUCUMBERS A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL.
CONCOMBRES A LA MAITRE I)'h6tEL.
Prepare the cucumbers as for stewing(see receipt). Drain
dry, and return to the fire in a saucepan, with a large lump
of butter, pepper, salt, chopped chives, and parsley. Shake
over the fire until very hot, and se1ve.
CUCUMBERS A LA POULETTE.
CONCOMBRES A LA POULETTE.
Prepare as for Stewed Cucumbers (see receipt). Just be-
fore serving, stir in the yolks of I or 2 eggs, blended with a
few drops of cold water and a few drops of vinegar. Do
not boil again after the eggs are added, or the sauce will
curdle.


302
GOOD-LIVING.
CUCUMBER FRITTERS.
BEIGNETS DE CONCOMBRES.
Peel and slice the cucumbers as for frying. Throw boil-
ing water over them, and scald until almost transparent.
Drain. Wipe dry. Dip in Fritter Batter (see receipt), and
fry in deep boiling lard (see General Directions for Frying).
Drain on brown paper, and serve on a cut paper. The
cucumbers, if small, may be cut lengthwise.
RAGOUT OF CUCUMBERS AND ONIONS.
RAGOUT DE CONCOMBRES.
Sliced onions, Sliced cucumbers,
I cup of water, Butter,
I gill of stewed tomatoes, or Flour,
I tablespoon of tomato catsup, Pepper,
Salt.
Fry the cucumbers and onion in butter until nicely
browned. The cucumbers will brown better if the slices
are lightly floured. When brown, add the water. Stew 30
minutes. Rub together a small teaspoonful of butter and
I heaping teaspoonful of flour. Add to the cucumbers;
stir and boil 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes, salt, and pep-
per. You may add, if you like, a little cold chicken or veal,
cut into neat dice. Heat thoroughly, and serve. This is a
very savory dish.
SPINACH A U JUS.
pur£e 'd'ep1nards au jus.
This is a dish that is so simple and easy to cook that, like
tea or coffee, or a dozen other things of the same class, it is
seldom done well.
In the first place, select young and tender spinach; if this
is not possible, pick it over, carefully tearing off only the
tender part of the leaf, and rejecting all the spines and
coarse fibres. Put it on the fire, with about a cupful of


PlE-PLAttT SPINACH.
303
boiling water to half a peck of spinach. Do not cover tJie
saucepan. Let it simmer for 10 minutes. By this time it
should be quite wilted, and that is all the cooking it re-
quires; more would destroy the color, and make it dry and
tasteless. The following is a most important point in cook-
ing spinach: when you remove it from the fire, drain it
perfectly dry. This is where most cooks fail. Press it in a
colander with a saucer or plate until every drop of moisture
is pressed out. Some cooks are so energetic as to put it into
a cloth and wring it dry. In any case it must be absolutely
free from that disagreeable, green spinach-water, which may
perhaps do for coloring, but is fit for nought else. Now
turn it into a chopping-bowl, and chop it as fine as powder.
Then, if liked, rub it through the colander. This latter
makes a puree, and is excellent. Now add either a few
spoonfuls of rich gravy or meat-juice, and a large lump
of butter, pepper, salt, and a very small pinch of sugar.
Put it into a saucepan, and, when thoroughly hot, serve it.
The proper consistency of spinach when dressed is, that it
should be as soft as it can be and yet retain its shape when
neatly arranged in a mound. It must be neither too wet
nor too dry. Garnish with Croutons (see receipt), or with
hard-boiled eggs, cut in quarters.
SPINACH A LA CREME.
PUREE D'EPINARDS A LA CREME.
Having prepared the spinach as above, substitute cream
for the gravy, and serve.
PIE-PLANT SPINACH.
Take the tender parts of the leaves of the rhubarb-plant,
rejecting all that is fibrous. Scald. Throw off this water,
and put on fresh. Boil for a few minutes, until tender.
Drain dry, and dress like real spinach. It cannot be dis-
tinguished from sorrel, and is very wholesome and cooling
in the early spring.


GOOD-LIVING.
purAe of sorrel.
PUREE D'OSEILLE.
Prepare exactly as spinach, rejecting all that is fibrous.
After scalding as described, dry thoroughly. Chop and
press through a colander. Dress with butter, pepper, and
salt, or add a little gravy. Garnish with croutons and serve
hot. The acidity of the sorrel may be modified by cooking
it with an equal quantity of spinach.
PUREE OF ENDIVES.
pur£e d'end1ves.
Prepare according to receipt for spinach, chopping not
quite as fine, and dressing with butter and rich stock, or
with a small quantity of cream sauce, which should be mixed
all through the endives. Garnish with croutons or hard-
boiled eggs. Serve very hot.
puree OF CHICKORY.
PUREE DE CHICOREE.
Prepare exactly like endives or spinach.
BEET-TOPS.
Prepare exactly as endives, boiling longer until tender.
TURNIP-TOPS.
Prepare exactly as above.
DANDELIONS.
Prepare as above.
KALE.
Boil as above, only longer, until perfectly tender. Drain
perfectly dry; make a little Cream Sauce (see receipt), and
when the kale is chopped quite fine, stir it into the cream
sauce and serve as above.


STRING-BEANS.
305
PUR&E OF LETTUCE.
puree de la1tues.
When your garden yields more lettuce than you can use
as salad, there are several ways of cooking it which will be
found very good. One of these is to prepare the lettuce
exactly the same as spinach, only boiling much longer, until
perfectly tender. When drained perfectly dry, finish as di-
rected. In the heat of the summer the coarse leaves are
often bitter; it is best to throw them aside and use only
what is young and tender.
LETTUCE AU JUS.
LAITUES AU JUS.
Wash the heads thoroughly without breaking. Cut all of
uniform length and tie each lightly together. Lay them
side by side in a buttered pan. Slice \ an onion ; lay it and
1 bay-leaf in the pan, and half-cover the lettuce with strong
stock. Cover the pan air-tight. Stew very gently. Or, the
pan may be stood in a slow oven. Open it from time to
time and add a little stock as it cooks away, but very little
at a time. Allow about 2 hours of slow cooking in the
oven, and frequent feeding as directed. Take them out,
remove the strings, and lay the heads of lettuce in an even
row on a flat dish. Set the pan again on the range; add a
gill of broth; let it boil briskly for a few minutes. Thicken
it slightly with a pinch of corn-starch blended with a few
drops of cold water ; stir, and boil 3 minutes. Or the gravy
may be thickened with a little Brown Roux (see receipt).
Strain the gravy over the lettuce, and serve.
STRING-BEANS.
HARICOTS VERTS.
Select very young beans to boil; they must be fresh as
well as young, and snap when bent. Tip and tail them,
drawing off the strings. There are such excellent stringless
ao


Jo6
GOOD-LIVING.
beans grown now, that it seems almost a pity to waste so
much time over those that have to be strung. Cut them, if
broad, in halves, both in length and breadth; if small, across
once or twice. Throw into cold water for 30 minutes. Bring
a kettle of water to a boil. Make it quite salt. Whcr.
boiling rapidly, throw in the beans, which you have drainc;"
dry. Let them boil rapidly for 20 minutes if very youn^,
longer, 30 to 45, if older. Do not put the lid on the ketiL .
When tender, drain free of all- moisture. Return to th.
saucepan with a large lump of butter, a teaspoonful of vin-
egar, salt, pepper, and a tablespoonful of parsley chopped
as fine as powder. Set in a warm place until the butter
is melted, and serve
Select very young beans; the younger the better. TSe
almost universal mistake is made of allowing these beans to
fill out and grow too large. Use only very small ones, sorting
as you shell them. The larger ones will make delicious
soup (see Puree of Limas and Tomatoes). Throw the small
ones into cold water. Have a large kettle of slighty-salted
boiling water. Throw in the beans and boil 40 to 60 min-
utes, according to their age. Drain dry. Return to the fire
with pepper, salt, butter (and \ of an onion grated and
fried in butter if liked), and stew for 10 or 15 minutes very
gently. Or, drain after boiling; add cream, butter, pepper,
and salt, and stew 10 or 15 minutes. In either case serve
with parsley chopped as fine as powder.
LIMA BEANS.
PUR&E OF RED BEANS.
PUREE A LA CONDfZ.
I quart of dried red beans,
I carrot,
I onion,
yi teaspoon of bi-carbonate of soda,
I bay-leaf,
I pound of ham,
1 tablespoon of butter,
Salt and pepper.
Wash and soak the beans in lukewarm water overnight.
In the morning, drain and cover with fresh cold water.


BOSTON BAKED BEANS FOR SUNDA Y BREAKFAST. 307
Bring to a boil. Boil 1 hour. Drain again. Return to the
fire with just enough boiling water to cover them; add the
baking-soda, ham, bay-leaf, carrot, and onion cut fine. Boil
until they will mash easily under pressure, about 1£ to 2
hours longer. When tender, remove the ham, and press
the beans, etc., through the colander. Return them to the
kettle; add the butter and sufficient cream to make the
puree of the consistency of soft mashed potatoes. Season
with salt and pepper. Serve very hot as a vegetable, or as a
garnish for veal saute, etc.
purAe OF LENTILS.
puree de lent1lles (chantilly).
Prepare exactly as above.
PURE'E OF DRIED PEAS.
PUREE DE POIS SECS.
Prepare exactly as above, using round, green, dried peas
in preference to any others.
BOSTON BAKED BEANS FOR SUNDA Y BREAK-
FAST.
Friday night: Pick over and wash the beans and put them
to soak.
Saturday morning: Skim the beans out of the water and
put into a kettle with hot water to cover them. Let them
just come to a boil. Skim them out of the kettle into the
bean-pot. Cut f of a pound of salt pork in strips and lay
them on the top; add the molasses (1 tablespoonful). Cover
them with hot water. Put on the lid of the pot and let
them bake in a slow oven all day. If the water dries off,
add enough to keep them covered. Let them stand in the
oven all night to keep warm.
Sunday morning: Eat and enjoy.
The bean-pot is a crock narrowed in at the mouth, and is
supplied with a cover. It should be boiled in water with


3o8
GOOD-LIVING.
some drippings to remove the glaze before using for baked
beans. The above old-fashioned receipt allows for 1 quart
of small, dried, white beans.
CREOLE BEANS AND BACON.
I quart of red beans, I onion, cut very fine,
}h pound of fine bacon, Cold water to cover,
Pepper, Salt.
Soak the beans overnight and cook exactly according to
receipt for Pork and Beans. Leave the bacon in I square
piece. When it has boiled perfectly tender, which will
probably be before the beans, take it out; skin and set
aside until the beans are very tender. Place the bacon in
the centre of a baking-dish; drain the beans and put them
around the bacon; fill to the top of the beans with the
liquor in which they boiled. Bake 1£to 2 hours, until the
liquid is nearly all absorbed. Recommended.
PUREE OF CHESTNUTS.
puree de marrons.
I quart of large chestnuts, I quart of stock or water,
I tablespoon of butter, Salt and pepper.
Shell the chestnuts, and throw into boiling water until
the skins come off easily. Drain and skin. Put them into
a saucepan with the stock or water; boil about 30 minutes,
until quite soft. Press through a colander; add butter,
pepper, and salt. It should be of the consistency of soft
mashed potato. Return to the fire. Stir, and when very
hot, serve. Good with veal saute, dindonneau (turkey-
chick), etc.
LENTILS SAUTE WITH BUTTER.
LENTILLES SAUTEES AU BEURRE.
I pint of dried lentils, 2 tablespoons of butter,
Chopped parsley and chives, Salt and pepper.
Soak the lentils overnight in warm water. Next day put
them in a saucepan with lukewarm water, and simmer for 2


CELERY AU J VS.
309
hours and 30 minutes; when perfectly tender, drain. Melt
the butter in a saucepan; add the lentils, pepper, and salt.
Stew gently for 15 minutes. Add 1 teaspoonful each of
parsley and chives, chopped as fine as powder, and serve.
SAMP.
Select very white and evenly-cracked samp. Wash it.
Soak it overnight in lukewarm water. Next day, throw
that water off; cover with fresh cold water; bring gradually
to a boil, and boil gently for 5 hours. As the water becomes
absorbed, add fresh boiling water from time to time. When
tender all through, drain off the water; put the samp into
the farina-kettle with milk enough to make it quite soft;
stew gently, with the cover off, for 1 hour, until the milk is
absorbed and the samp creamy. Add a good quantity of
salt and a large lump of butter. When the butter is melted,
serve.
N. B.—Be certain the samp is quite tender before the
milk is added.
FRIED SAMP.
When cold (prepared as above), form into cakes; dip in
egg and flour, and fry in hot butter until quite brown.
Excellent for breakfast.
CELERY AU JUS.
CELERI AU JUS.
Cut the celery (if possible, without separating the stalks)
into lengths of 6 to 8 inches. Wash carefully, not to break
it, and clean the earth from it thoroughly. Scald it for 5
minutes in boiling water. Line a saucepan with thin slices
of bacon. Lay the celery on these. Mix 4 tablespoonfuls
of Espagnole Sauce (see receipt) with an equal quantity of
consomme or good stock. Cover air-tight. Simmer gently
for 45 minutes. Or the saucepan may be stood in the oven
for the same length of time. Dish the celery like asparagus;
skim the sauce, strain it over the celery, and serve.


GOOD-LIVWG.
CELERY-ROOT OR CELERIAC.
CELERI-RAVE.
Wash very thoroughly. Cut the leaves off about I inch
from the root. If very large, divide in 4. Blanch it in
salted boiling water for about 10 minutes. Drain dry; add
the celeriac to a rich Cream Sauce (see receipt); set it over
boiling water and stew gently until tender, about 30 minutes.
Or, the celeriac may be sliced when scalded, and finished as
above. It will require less time to cook.
STEWED CELERY.
CELERI A LA CREME.
Wash out all the earth, and cut the celery into even pieces
about 2 inches long. Boil in salted boiling water until
rather tender, about 20 minutes; then make a White Sauce
(see receipt), using the water in which the celery has boiled
to blend the sauce. Add an extra teaspoonful of butter or
a little cream; drain out the celery; add it to the sauce; set
over boiling water and stew very gently until tender, about
45 minutes in all. Keep covered. Serve hot.
CELERY FRITTERS.
BEIGNETS DE CELERI.
Having cut the celery into 2-inch lengths and boiled quite
tender, dip it in batter (see receipt for Clam Fritters) and
fry as directed. Dish in a pyramid on cut paper or a folded
napkin.
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES A LA CREME.
TOPINAMBOURS A LA CREME.
It is unfortunate that this excellent vegetable is so little
known and appreciated in this country. It is very easy (too
easy, the farmers think) to raise, and should be very inex-
pensive. Wash. Boil with their skins on in salted boiling


JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE CHIPS.
3U
water for about 20 minutes, more or less, according to age
and size. When tender all through, but not soft enough to
fall in pieces, drain, peel, and mix with a rich Cream Sauce
(see receipt) which has been prepared meanwhile. Set over
boiling water and stew very gently for 5 to 10 minutes, and
serve.
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES A U GRA TIN.
TOPINAMBOURS AU GRATIN.
Boil as above, and dress exactly according to the direc-
tions for Cauliflower au Gratin.
PUR£E OF JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES.
PUREE DE TOPINAMBOURS.
Wash and skin 1 dozen artichokes; boil until tender in 1
pint of consomme. Drain. Press through a colander; re-
turn to the fire in a saucepan, with I tablespoonful of butter,
salt, and pepper. When hot, serve with filet of beef, veal
saute, braised chicken, etc., etc.
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES BAKED.
TOPINAMBOURS ROTIS.
Peel and trim a dozen artichokes. Melt 1 tablespoonful
of butter or drippings in a fire-proof dish, which can be sent
to table; put in the artichokes; add salt and pepper, and
bake for 30 minutes, basting frequently, until of a rich
brown. Serve in the same dish.
BRAISED JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES.
TOPINAMBOURS BRAISES.
Prepare as directed in the receipt for Braised Chicken
with Jerusalem Artichokes.
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE CHIPS.
TOPINAMBOURS FRITS.
Prepare according to receipt for Potato Chips.


312
GOOD-LIVING.
. FRENCH OR GLOBE ARTICHOKES.
ARTICHAUTS.
Cut the stalk close, then, with a pair of scissors, trim
the sharp points from the leaves, removing not more than
\ an inch from each. Wash in cold water and vinegar, to
draw out any lurking insects. Have ready a pot of salted
boiling water. Lay in the artichokes, and boil very gently,
until you can draw out a leaf easily, but do not let them go
to pieces. Drain them upside-down until dry. Then serve
hot with Hollandaise Sauce, or cold with Tartare Sauce, or
with Plain French Dressing (see receipts). The time for
boiling will vary with the size and age of the vegetable, from
2$ minutes to I hour.
TO BOIL ONIONS.
Cut a small slice from top and bottom of each onion,
selecting white ones for the purpose. Peel them in a bowl
under water. Put them into a china-lined saucepan, with
boiling water to cover. In 15 minutes throw this water off,
and replace it with fresh boiling water and 1 teaspoonful of
salt; boil until the onions are tender enough to pierce with
a straw. This will require from 40 to 60 minutes for
medium-sized onions. The very large Spanish require much
longer. Drain. Serve with melted butter, pepper, and salt.
The best onions for boiling are the Bermudas.
ONIONS WITH CREAM SA UCE.
OGNONS A LA CREME.
Having prepared as above, boil until quite tender, but not
entirely done. Have ready a Cream Sauce (see receipt).
Drain the onions, and lay them in the sauce. Set on one
side of the fire, over a kettle of boiling water {bain-marie),
and stew gently for fully 30 minutes, until the onions begin
to go to pieces. Young Bermuda onions prepared in this
way are very delicate.


GLAZED ONIONS. 313
ONIONS BAKED AND BROWNED. .
Cut a slice from the top and bottom of each, and peel
them in a bowl of water. Use Bermudas, if possible. Have
ready a pot of salted boiling water; add enough milk to
whiten the water. Put in the onions, and boil until quite
tender, from 40 to 60 minutes. Drain. Lay them in a
bake-pan; sprinkle with salt, pepper, and a pinch of sugar;
add a little of the liquor in which the onions were bo1led,
and bake in the oven until the onions are nicely browned.
GLAZED ONIONS.
OGNONS GLACIS.
15 onions, I cup of consomme,
I teaspoon of sugar, I large tablespoon of butter,
Salt.
Peel the onions in a bowl of water, cutting the skin not
too close to top or bottom, lest they should go to pieces in
cooking. Take a saucepan large enough for all the onions
to fit in the bottom side by side. Put in the butter, and,
when it is melted, place the onions in it. They should be
of uniform size. Sprinkle with the sugar, and moisten with
the consomme, which should be strong and well-flavored.
Add salt. Cover and set on the side of the range, where
they will stew gently for about 1 hour. By the time the
onions are tender all through, the broth should have cooked
down to a glaze. If not quite brown enough, uncover and
set the saucepan in the oven for a few minutes. Remove
the onions to a dish. Set the saucepan on the top of the
range; add a little fresh consomme; stir it around; boil
and strain over the onions. The sauce may be very slightly
thickened, when boiling, with a pinch of corn-starch, dis-
solved in a little cold water. Stir and boil 3 minutes. Use
the onions as a garnish for beef, veal, etc.


3H
GOOD-LIVING.
SPANISH ONIONS BAKED.
These are the very large, white-skinned onions. Put
them, unpeeled, in a pot of salted boiling water, and boil
rapidly I hour. Then wipe dry; roll in greased papers
which you twist at the 2 ends to keep in the steam, and
bake from I to 2 hours. If very large, boil longer before
baking. When baked, remove the papers; peel the onions,
and serve with butter, pepper, and salt; or with a rich
Brown Sauce (see receipt).
PLAIN BOILED OKRA.
GOMBOS.
Cut off the stems, nearly up to the shoulder; do not tip
them unless the points are discolored. Put them whole
(they should never be more than 2^ inches long for plain
boiling) in a china-lined saucepan with salted boiling water.
If boiled in iron, the okra will turn black. Boil 20 to 30
minutes until perfectly tender, but do not let them break.
Drain off the water. They are now ready to be dressed,
according to taste.
OKRA STEWED.
GOMBOS SAUTES.
Boil as above; when drained, return to the saucepan with
a large tablespoonful of butter, 1 of vinegar, and pepper
and salt. Set back on the range where the butter will melt
and stew very gently. Be careful not to boil again, once
the okra is tender enough, or it will break. In 15 minutes,
serve.
OKRA AND TOMATOES STEWED.
Peel and slice tomatoes; slice okras crosswise, an equal
quantity of both. Slice 2 or 3 sweet peppers, rejecting the
seeds (beware of the hot peppers). Stew all together for 1
hour to 1 hour and 30 minutes, adding water only in case the


SALSIFY SAUT&.
vegetables become too dry, and very little then. Add a large
lump of butter and salt; let stand 5 minutes, and serve. A
£ cupful of well-washed rice and small pieces of ham cut in
dice may be added to the above. Watch that it does not
scorch.
OYSTER-PLANT OR SALSIFY.
SALSIFIS.
Scrape thoroughly and lay in cold water immediately, as
the contact with the air will turn it black. Have ready a
china-lined kettle of boiling water. Lay in the salsify and
boil until tender, 1 hour, perhaps less. It may be cut in 2-
inch lengths before boiling, if desired. When tender, drain
quite dry and dress according to any of the following
receipts.
STEWED SALSIFY WITH CREAM SAUCE.
SALSIFIS A LA CRF.ME.
Having boiled the salsify as directed, and cut it in 2-inch
lengths, prepare a rich Cream Sauce (see receipt). Dish the
salsify; sprinkle a few drops of vinegar on every piece and
pour over the Cream Sauce. Or, make a White Sauce (see
receipt), adding to it a little vinegar; lay the salsify in this;
set over boiling water and stew IO to 15 minutes. Serve.
Always sprinkle finely-chopped parsley over the top.
SALSIFY SA UTE.
SALSIFIS SAUTES.
I bunch of salsify,
I tablespoon of vinegar,
I " "mushrooms, chopped,
Pepper,
1 tablespoon of butter,
I " "chopped parsley,
I " " " chives,
Salt.
Having boiled the salsify, cut it in 1-inch lengths; add all
the other ingredients; stew very gently for 15 minutes, and
serve.


316
GOOD-LIVING.
FRITTERS OF SALSIFY.
BEIGNETS DE SALSIFIS.
Having boiled the salsify as directed, cut it in 2-inch
lengths; dip in batter (see Clam Fritters); fry in boiling
lard (see General Directions for Frying); drain on brown
paper, and serve on cut paper or a folded napkin.
FRIED SALSIFY CAKES.
Having boiled the salsify as directed, mash it through the
colander and finish as directed for Parsnip Cakes (see
receipt).
SCALLOPED OYSTER-PLANT OR SALSIFY.
SALSIFIS AU GRATIN.
I^ pounds of boiled oyster-plant, 3 ounces of butter,
2 teaspoons of salt, gill of milk,
Cayenne,
Having boiled the salsify, press it through a colander.
Add 2 ounces of butter and all the other ingredients. Stir
well over the fire until the butter melts. Fill a fire-proof
baking-dish with the mixture. Stand the dish in a pan of
hot water. Cover the top with fine bread-crumbs and the
remaining butter in dots. Set in the oven for about 20
minutes until brown, and serve. Celery-salt may be substi-
tuted for part of the salt in the receipt.
MOCK OYSTERS OF SALSIFY.
COQUILLES DE SALSIFIS.
Prepare as above, baking in small shells or china cases, 5
to 8 minutes.
CARROTS.
Scrape and lay in cold water for 30 minutes. Put them
down in boiling water and boil about 1 hour and 30 minutes;


CARROTS SAUTED.
317
this is the time for winter carrots boiled whole. If cut in
slices or strips, they will require less time. When tender all
through, drain dry, and dress according to any of the fol-
lowing receipts.
Small summer carrots need only to be scraped, washed,
and boiled for about 20 minutes, then dressed.
CARROTS FRICASSEED.
CAROTTES A LA CREME.
Having boiled the carrots, cut them neatly in £-inch dice;
have ready a rich Cream Sauce (see receipt); stir in the car-
rots, salt, and pepper. Set on one side and stew gently for
15 to 20 minutes; stir in 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley
and a little chopped chives and chervil, and serve.
CARROTS A LA LYONNAISE.
CAROTTES A LA LYONNAISE.
Having boiled the carrots, cut them into even, fine dice.
Chop an onion very fine and fry it golden-brown in a table-
spoonful of sweet drippings and a little butter. Add the
carrots, pepper, and salt. Mix, and when very hot add I
tablespoonful of chopped parsley and chervil, and serve.
CARROTS SAUT£D.
CAROTTES SAUTES.
Summer carrots of medium size are best for this purpose.
Scrape and wash. Cut crosswise in very thin slices. Pour
boiling water over them, and when perfectly tender (10 or
12 minutes), drain off the water. Add a large lump of but-
ter, a good pinch of sugar, pepper, and salt. Shake occa-
sionally until the butter melts and the carrots begin to be a
little reddish-brown on the edges, but do not fry. Sprinkle
with pepper, salt, parsley and chervil chopped as fine as
powder, and serve.


GOOD-LlVIltG.
CARAMEL CARROTS.
CAROTTES AU CARAMEL.
Having boiled them as directed, cut the carrots in long,
thin strips, like cigarettes. Put into the frying-pan a large
lump of butter and drippings. When very hot, add the
carrots; sprinkle with sugar, pepper, and salt, and fry until
the edges are well browned. Sprinkle with chopped parsley
and serve.
BEETS.
BETTERAVES.
Winter beets should be soaked overnight and boiled until
tender, anywhere from 3 to 6 hours. Do not touch them
with a knife until they are boiled, or their color will be de-
stroyed. Winter beets should be peeled when cooked very
tender, sliced and served with a lump of butter melted with
vinegar, pepper, and salt poured over them. Or, served
cold, sliced, with vinegar, pepper, and salt. Set them
away for a few hours before serving in this way, for the
vinegar to penetrate them. They will keep for some time,
and are excellent to mix with salads, and useful as a
garnish.
Summer beets require less time to boil, 1 hour being
sufficient for small ones. If very small, serve whole, peeled,
with butter and vinegar as above; those of medium size
j should be cut in 4.
TO BOIL PARSNIPS.
Scrape and lay them in cold, salted water for 20 min-
utes. If old, peel carefully and split lengthwise. Put into
salted boiling water, if young, for 30 to 45 minutes; if old,
perhaps more than 1 hour and 15 minutes. When tender,
drain and serve dressed according to any of the following
receipts:


PARSNIPS SAUT&.
319
STEWED PARSNIPS WITH CREAM SAUCE.
PANAIS A LA CREME.
Having boiled as directed, cut the parsnips in neat even
pieces, and stir into a Cream Sauce (see receipt). Set on
one side where they will cook over boiling water (bain-marie)
very gently for 10 or 15 minutes, and serve.
PARSNIP FRITTERS.
BEIGNETS DE PANAIS.
Having boiled the parsnips as directed, cut them in long
narrow strips like cigarettes; dip in batter; drop them into
deep boiling lard, being certain that the lard is really boil-
ing (see General Directions for Frying). When well puffed
and golden-brown, remove with a skimmer and set on brown
paper to drain. Fry only a few at a time. Serve in a pyra-
mid on cut paper or a folded napkin.
Batter for same: Mix \ of a pound of flour with the yolks
of 2 eggs, a level saltspoonful of salt, half that amount of
pepper, \ of a grated nutmeg, 1 tablespoonful of salad oil,
and 1 cup of water, more or less as the flour absorbs it.
Add the whites of 2 eggs beaten to a stiff froth. The
batter should be stiff enough to hold the drops in shape
when dropped from the spoon. Use for parsnip or any
other vegetable or fruit fritters.
PARSNIPS SA UT£.
PANAIS SAUTES.
Having boiled the parsnips as directed, cut them in long
narrow strips like cigarettes. Put them into a saucepan with
a large lump of sweet drippings or butter, and shake occa-
sionally until the butter absorbs and the edges of the pars-
nips become slightly browned; do not allow them to fry
crisp. Chop a tablespoonful of parsley as fine as powder;
stir it, with pepper and salt, into the parsnips, and serve.
The parsnips will boil more quickly for the above, if cut first
into strips.


320
GOOD-LIVING.
FRIED PARSNIPS.
PANAIS FRITS.
Having boiled the parsnips as directed, cut them in slices
lengthwise. Heat some drippings in the frying-pan, and
when very hot, lay in the parsnips. Fry brown on one side;
turn and brown the other. Sprinkle with chopped parsley,
pepper, and salt, and serve.
FRIED PARSNIP BALLS.
3 large parsnips, I tablespoon of butter,
2 eggs, 3 tablespoons of flour,
I cup rich milk, I teaspoon of salt.
Having boiled the parsnips as directed, but a little longer,
until very tender, drain and mash through the colander. Beat
the eggs very light, together; mix all thoroughly. Form
into balls and fry in very hot butter, lard, or sweet drippings.
Be sure the fat is boiling hot. Or, drop into deep lard like
fritters; or fry on the griddle.
MASHED PARSNIPS.
PUREE DE PANAIS.
Having boiled the parsnips very tender, mash through a
colander; add a large lump of butter, pepper, salt, and milk
enough to make a puree. Serve in a mound on a hot dish;
or add a little more milk and serve as a puree with veal cut-
lets, etc.
TO BOIL TURNIPS.
Peel; lay in cold salted water 30 minutes. Drain. Put
in salted boiling water; cover, and boil about 1 hour and 30
minutes, or more, for whole winter turnips.
Young turnips should be peeled and about 1 inch of the
green top left on. Boil about 1 hour until tender; the
length of time must depend upon the size of the turnip.
Drain dry and serve with melted butter, pepper, and salt, or
with rich Cream Sauce (see receipt).


GLAZED TURNIPS.
TURNIPS BAKED WITH MUTTON.
Boil the turnips as directed until almost tender; if very
large, cut in 4; drain, and lay them in the pan with a roast-
ing leg of mutton about 45 minutes before it is to be done.
Baste frequently, and serve around the mutton. The tur-
nips should bake until well browned and very tender. Yel-
low turnips are best for this purpose.
TURNIPS WITH CREAM SA UCE FOR BOILED
MUTTON.
NAVETS X LA CREME.
Cut in quarters and boil as directed. When nearly ten-
der, drain, and put them into a Cream Sauce (see receipt);
stew until very soft, about 30 minutes, over boiling water.
Serve around a boiled leg of mutton, with the sauce poured
over.
TURNIPS A U JUS.
NAVETS AU JUS.
Cut in quarters, if large, and boil as directed, until very
tender. Drain and put into the pot with a braised leg or
shoulder of mutton, about 45 minutes before it is to be
served. Dish around the meat or separately.
MASHED TURNIPS.
PUREE DE NAVETS.
Boil as directed 4 or 5 large yellow turnips and 2
large potatoes. When tender, drain very dry; mash all
through a coarse sieve. Add butter, a little cream, pepper,
and salt. Form neatly into a mound and dot all over with
black pepper. Or make the puree softer by adding more
milk and butter, and serve around veal saute, etc. The ad-
dition of potatoes is of importance.
GLAZED TURNIPS.
NAVETS GLACES.
Trim the turnips of uniform size, the shape of a large
olive. Wash in cold, salted water. Drain. Stand them
21


GOOD-LIVING.
upright in a pan; cover with broth, which has been boiled
until very rich; add a pinch of sugar. Boil 20 minutes or
more. When tender, remove the turnips; set the sauce
where it will cook down quickly, and, when reduced to
a glaze, return the turnips to the pan, and cover on all sides
with the glaze. Serve.
TURNIPS A U GRA TIN.
NAVETS AU GRATIN.
Boil in thin slices until tender; drain and finish, according
to directions for Cauliflower au Gratin.
BROWNED TURNIPS.
Peel; slice; boil until tender, about 20 minutes. Drain.
Put 2 large tablespoonfuls of butter into the frying-pan;
when smoking hot, lay'in the turnips; sprinkle over them
salt, pepper, and about 1 tablespoonful of soft sugar. Turn
until well browned on both sides. Serve.
TO MAKE A RICE BORDER.
I cup of well-washed rice, I quart of stock, white is best,
Salt, Pepper.
Bring the stock to a boil. Having drained the rice well,
drop it into the stock, and boil very rapidly for 15 minutes,
uncovered; then stand it over a moderate fire to steam, not
boil, for 20 minutes longer. Drain. Season with salt and
white pepper. Butter thoroughly the bottom and sides of
a tin border-mould. Press the rice into this; set it in the
oven for 15 minutes. Remove it; loosen the edges with a
knife; place a hot dish upside-down over the mould; with
a quick movement turn both over, and remove the mould.
Fill the centre with Curried Chicken, Fricassee, Blanquette
of Veal, etc.


BOILED RICE.
CREOLE RECEIPT FOR BOILING RICE.
RIZ PERLE
Wash the rice in 3 waters; rub it dry in a clean cloth after
the last washing. Have ready a deep saucepan of boiling
water; sprinkle the rice into it. The water should be deep
enough to allow the grains to play about freely. Do not
cover. After boiling 20 minutes, test several grains to see
that all are tender at the heart. If not, boil 2 or 3 minutes
longer, about 22 minutes in all. Remove from the fire;
throw it into a colander. When drained perfectly dry, put
it into a saucepan with a large lump of butter, say 1 table-
spoonful to 1 cup of raw rice, and plenty of salt. Stand
it where it will get as much heat as it can without scorching.
Do not cover. Do not stir. Every now and again turn it
lightly from the bottom with a fork, and scatter any lumps
that form. In about forty minutes, if exposed to sufficient
heat, the rice will be dried so that every grain stands by it-
self. Should the rice be boiled even a little too soft, it will
take much longer to dry. Should it look pasty, when drained,
hold it under the cold-water faucet and let the cold water
dash through it; then shake dry, put into the saucepan with
butter, and finish as above. The above receipt is one that
has been in daily and successful use for many years. When
well cooked, every grain should be separate and saturated
with butter.
BOILED RICE.
RIZ.
Have ready on the fire a large pot of boiling water. Wash
the rice, and sprinkle it in. Add salt. Boil rapidly, so that
the water tosses the grains about loosely for 25 minutes
without touching. Then, if perfectly tender, throw it into
the colander, and leave it over the pot of hot water to steam
for 10 minutes. Dish and serve. Never cover it, either
while cooking or when served.



SALADS AND DRESSINGS.
SIDNEY SMITH'S SALAD DRESSING.
"Two large potatoes, passed through kitchen sieve,
Smoothness and softness to the salad give;
Of mordent mustard add a single spoon,
Distrust the condiment that bites too soon;
But deem it not, thou man of herbs, a fault,
To add a double quantity of salt:
Four times the spoon with Oil of Lucca crown,
And twice with vinegar procured from "town";
True flavor needs it, and your poet begs
The pounded yellow of two well-boiled eggs.
Let onion's atoms lurk within the bowl,
And, scarce suspected, animate the whole.
And, lastly, in the flavor'd compound toss
A magic spoonful of Anchovy Sauce.
Oh! great and glorious, and herbaceous treat,
'T would tempt the dying anchorite to eat.
Back to the world he'd turn his weary soul,
And plunge his fingers in the Salad-bowl."
MA YONNAISE SA UCE.
See Sauces.
REMOULADE SAUCE.
See Sauces.
VINAIGRETTE.
See Sauces.
324


DRESSING FOR COLD-SLA tV.
325
MUSTARD DRESSING.
1 teaspoon of dry mustard, 3 or 4 drops of boiling water,
2 gills of olive oil, Vinegar,
Salt and pepper, 1 yolk of egg may be added, if desired.
Blend the mustard first with the boiling water, and work
it up to a sticky paste; you may require I or 2 drops more
than indicated above, but, if so, add them very carefully, as
it is easy to use too much water. Then begin to add the
oil, drop by drop at first; more boldly after a few minutes.
Every time there is any appearance of "cracking" or curd-
ling, add a few drops of vinegar, and work briskly until it
smooths out again. The quantity of oil is only approxi-
mate, for, after a little experience of the management of it
and the vinegar, it will be found that the same amount of
mustard can be made to hold more oil. This dressing is
a general favorite for celery salad, fish salad, tomatoes,
etc., etc., and deservedly so, as it is much more reliable
than the mayonnaise, which it closely resembles in appear-
ance. With plenty of patience, and management in the
alternate use of the vinegar and oil, it is certain to succeed
where, especially in summer, mayonnaise fails, often unac-
countably. This dressing, if made in larger quantity, can
be kept in a glass jar on ice for 1 or even 2 weeks. If the
oil separates at all, it can always be rubbed smooth again
with a few drops of vinegar. Recommended.
DRESSING FOR COLD-SLA W.
1 tablespoon of dry mustard, y£ teaspoon of salt,
% teaspoon of sugar, 2 gills of warm water,
2 eggs, I gill of vinegar,
1 scant gill of oil, cream, or melted butter.
Mix together sugar, salt, mustard, and water; stir smooth
and add the oil. Set over the fire and boil up once, stirring
steadily. Remove from the fire and beat it into the eggs,
which are already beaten together in a bowl. Return the
sauce to the fire, setting it over boiling water. Stir until
smooth and thick, then add the vinegar. When cold, use for
slaw, cold meats, etc. This is a very old-fashioned receipt.


326
GOOb-LlVMG.
FRENCH SALAD DRESSING.
I tablespoon of vinegar, 3 tablespoons of best olive oil,
^ saltspoon of pepper, saltspoon of salt.
Mix well together in a cup and pour over the salad at the
last moment; mix through and serve. Be careful not to
crush the lettuce in mixing. The proportion of vinegar
varies with the salad to be dressed, lettuce and doucette
(corn-salad) requiring very little, while others require even
more than the above allowance. If the dressing is mixed
upon the salad, add the ingredients in the following order:
First pour over the oil. Mix. Then put into the spoon the
vinegar; add to it the salt and pepper; mix these in the
spoon until dissolved, then sprinkle over the salad; mix and
serve. Observe this rule, and you will find that it makes a
great difference in the excellence of the salad.
LETTUCE SALAD.
SALADE DE LAITUES.
To crisp the lettuce, take a pan of cold water, dip the
lettuce into it, holding the root in the hand. Dip it in 3 or
4 times, then shake it out well. If you have one, use a
salad-basket to dry the lettuce. Pick over the lettuce care-
fully to see that it is perfectly clean, stripping off the larger
leaves, and leaving the heart intact. Lay all in a thin, clean
towel; fold it up loosely and set in the ice-box until required.
N. B.—Handle it as little and as lightly as possible. Dress
it at the last moment with plain French Dressing (see
receipt). It must not stand after being mixed, or it will
wilt. Garnish with hard-boiled eggs cut in quarters.
SALAD OF ENDIVES.
SALADE D'ENDIVES.
I pint of endives, French Dressing,
I teaspoon of chervil, chopped very fine.
Crisp the endives as described (see Lettuce Salad). When
ready to serve, add chervil and dressing. Mix. Do not let
it stand or it will wilt.


SALAD OP CRESS, PEPPER-GRASS, AND CHERVIL. 327
CHICORY SALAD.
SALADE DE CHICOREE.
Prepare exactly as Salad of Endives.
ESCAROLE SALAD.
SALADE D'ESCAROLE.
Prepare exactly as Lettuce Salad (see receipt).
ROMAINE SALAD.
SALADE ROMAINE.
Prepare exactly as Lettuce Salad (see receipt).
FETTICUS OR CORN-SALAD.
SALADE DOUCETTE.
Pick over every leaf carefully. Prepare exactly as directed
for Lettuce Salad (see receipt).
WATER-CRESS SALAD.
SALADE DE CRESSON.
Pick over every sprig carefully. Prepare exactly as Let-
tuce Salad (see receipt).
DANDELION SALAD.
SALADE DE CHICOREE SAUVAGE.
Wash carefully and prepare exactly as Lettuce Salad (see
receipt).
SALAD OF CRESS, PEPPER-GRASS, AND CHERVIL.
Wash and pick over carefully; mix equal quantities and
prepare exactly as Lettuce Salad (see receipt). Mustard-
grass may be added in season. This is a delicious, fresh
salad for early spring, the grasses being better when grown
under glass.


328
GOOD-LIVING.
CUCUMBER SALAD.
SALADE DE CONCOMBRES.
See Dressed Cucumbers, chapter on Vegetables.
CUCUMBER AND ONION SALAD.
Prepare the cucumbers as directed for Dressed Cucum-
bers. Add an equal bulk of sliced Bermuda or Spanish
onions. Mix with a lump of ice, French Dressing, and cay-
enne, and serve immediately.
SALAD OF STRING-BEANS.
HARICOTS VERTS EN SALADE.
I pint of cold boiled beans, French Dressing,
I teaspoon each of parsley and chervil, chopped as fine as powder.
Select very young and tender beans; boil as directed (see
Vegetables). Put them with the parsley and chervil in the
salad-bowl. Add the dressing, a dash of cayenne, a tea-
spoon of tarragon or Maille vinegar; mix and serve. This
salad will not be injured by being set in the ice-box for I
hour before serving. Serve very cold.
ASPARAGUS SALAD.
ASPERGES EN SALADE.
I pint of asparagus tips, French Dressing.
Boil the Asparagus Tips as directed (see receipt). When
cold add the dressing. Mix. Let stand 1 hour. Serve
very cold.


OKRA SALAD.
329
:
CAULIFLOWER SALAD.
CHOU-FLEUR EN SALADE.
I pint of cold boiled cauliflower, 1 teaspoonful of chervil, chopped as fine as
I teaspoon of parsley, chopped as
fine as powder,
1 teaspoon of tarragon or Maille vinegar,
French Dressing.
Boil the cauliflower as directed (see receipt). Separate the
flowerets. Mix with them parsley, chives, and dressing. Set
aside 1 hour. Serve very cold.
SALAD OF JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES.
SALADE DE TOPINAMBOURS.
1 pint of cold boiled artichokes,
I teaspoonful of parsley, chopped
as fine as powder,
French Dressing,
1 teaspoonful of tarragon or Maille
vinegar,
I teaspoonful of chervil, chopped as
fine as powder.
Boil the artichokes (see receipt). When cold, peel, cut in
quarters. Add parsley, chives, and dressing. Mix. Set
aside 1 hour or more. Serve very cold.
OKRA SALAD.
SALADE DE GOMBOS.
50 cold boiled okras,
I teaspoon of parsley, chopped as
fine as powder,
I teaspoon of chervil, chopped as
fine as powder,
I or 2 sprigs of chives, chopped
fine as powder,
I teaspoon of tarragon or Maille
vinegar,
French Dressing, .
Cayenne.
Boil as directed (see receipt). When cold, mix with the
dressing and herbs. Set aside 1 hour and serve very cold.


330
GOOD-LIVING.
SALAD OFDOUCETTE, CELERY, AND BEETS.
Prepare equal quantities of Doucette (corn salad) and Celery
(see receipts), and £ the bulk of celery in pickled beets cut
fine. Mix. Add Sydney Smith's Salad Dressing. When
all the ingredients are cold, mix thoroughly and serve imme-
diately. Highly recommended.
SALAD OF CELERY, CABBAGE, AND BEETS.
Prepare equal quantities of Celery and Cold-Slaw (see
receipts) and £ the bulk of celery in pickled beets cut fine.
Mix. Set away in the ice-box. Add a Remoulade Sauce or
Sydney Smith's Salad Dressing (see receipts); mix well, let
stand not more than 10 minutes. Serve very cold. Highly
recommended.
RED BEAN SALAD.
I pint of cold boiled red beans, Vinaigrette Sauce.
Boil the beans very slowly, until perfectly tender, adding
a gill of cold water from time to time. When cold, mix with
a Vinaigrette (see Sauces). Add cayenne, and tarragon or
Maille vinegar to taste. The dressing should be very highly
seasoned.
CELERY SALAD.
SALADE DE CELERI.
I pint of white celery washed and crisped, French Dressing.
Cut the celery in 1 inch lengths. Add the dressing; mix.
Do not let stand more than 10 or 15 minutes or the celery
will wilt. It should be crisped exactly as directed for let-
tuce; never allow it to lie in the water or it will become water-
soaked (see Lettuce Salad).


TOMATO SALAD.
331
CELERY MA YONNAISE.
MAYONNAISE DE CELERI.
I pint of celery washed and crisped, Mayonnaise Sauce.
Prepare the celery as above. Mix the Mayonnaise (see re-
ceipt) with it. Arrange neatly and garnish tastefully. It is
recommended strongly to use the receipt for Mustard Dress-
ing in preference to Mayonnaise.
COLD SLAW {OLD-FASHIONED).
I pint of cut cabbage, Cold-slaw dressing.
Do not chop the cabbage, but cut it across the head in
shreds as fine and thin as possible. Throw it into cold water
for 10 minutes. Drain and crisp as directed for lettuce.
Pour over sufficient Cold-Slaw Dressing (see receipt) to
moisten well, and serve.
COLD SLA W.
I pint of cut cabbage, French Dressing,
I large tablespoon of tomato catsup, Cayenne.
Wash and crisp as above. Mix with the dressing. Do
not allow it to stand more than 10 minutes, and serve very
cold. Recommended.
TOMATO SALAD.
SALADE DE TOMATES.
I pint of sliced tomatoes, French Dressing.
Peel the tomatoes with a sharp knife. Never under any
circumstance scald the skin off for salad; it gives the fruit a
half-cooked, sodden appearance, and destroys its quality. It
may take a little more time and trouble to peel them as


332
GOOD-LIVING.
described, but it is indispensable. When the tomatoes are
peeled, set them whole near the ice until very cold. When
required, slice \ of an inch thick. Mix with the dressing, ad-
ding 1 large tablespoonful more of vinegar and I teaspoonful
of tarragon or Maille vinegar in place of 1 of the tablespoon-
fuls of oil called for by the receipt. Add a dash of cayenne.
Mix. Do not allow the salad to stand more than 20 minutes.
Serve very cold.
MA YONNAISE OF TOMA TOES.
TOMATES EN MAYONNAISE.
8 whole tomatoes, 1 head of lettuce crisped,
Mayonnaise.
Prepare the tomatoes as described for Tomato Salad, put-
ting them whole upon the ice. Let them get very cold.
Prepare a Mayonnaise, if liked. It is strongly recommended
to use in preference to Mayonnaise, a Mustard Sauce (see
receipt), to which add the yolk of 1 egg. When ready to
serve, hollow out a small place from the top of each tomato
(they should be of uniform size and shape) ; set the tomatoes
upon a flat dish. Arrange around them the pale green
leaves of the lettuce; fill the hollow in each tomato with
dressing, and serve very cold. This is an extremely pretty
dish, easy of execution, and will be found particularly good if
the Mustard Sauce is used as above.
SALAD OF WHITE BEANS.
I pint of cold boiled white beans,
1 tablespoon of finely-chopped chives,
I tablespoon of finely-chopped chervil,
Tarragon vinegar,
Vinaigrette sauce,
2 tablespoons of smoked herring,
shredded fine,
1 tablespoon finely-chopped pars-
ley,
Cayenne.
Boil the beans as directed for Red Bean Salad (see
receiDt). When cold add all the other ingredients; mix;
set in the ice-box for 2 hours. Serve very cold.


SALAD A LA DEM I DOFF.
333
RUSSIAN SALAD.
SALADE RUSSE.
3 tablespoons each of: turnips, carrots,
beets, cauliflower, green peas, flage-
olet beans,
1 heaping teaspoon of chervil,
chopped as fine as powder,
Plain French Dressing,
I teaspoon of parsley, chopped as
fine as powder,
I extra tablespoon of vinegar,
tarragon or Maille.
The cold boiled vegetables should be cut into small, even
pieces with a fancy vegetable-cutter, if possible. They
should be well drained and iced. Arrange the different col-
ors in a round dish, starting from the centre, like rays,
red, white, green, 2 of each. If 8 sections are preferred,
add 2 more white, repeating those given, or using Jerusalem
artichokes and potatoes. The proper thing to use for the
central point is the lower part of the French globe arti-
choke (fonds d'artichauts); but as this is not always ob-
tainable, it may be replaced by a pretty, pale-green lettuce
heart. Mix the dressing; pour it over the salad; set away
2 hours; add the heart of lettuce at the last moment, and
serve very cold. This is a pretty dish for supper, and is
good served with cold game.
The above dressing may be replaced by Mustard Sauce,
colored with a little spinach-juice.
Rub the salad-bowl with olive oil. Lay in alternate layers
of cold potatoes (which have been boiled in their skins and
only peeled when cold), and sliced truffles, finishing with
truffles. Around the outer edge, put a circle of very small
white button onions, alternated with olives, stoned. Dress
with French Dressing, substituting white wine for vinegar,
if preferred. Set in the ice-box 2 hours before serving.
None but the best truffles should be used.
SALAD A LA DEMIDOFF.
Cold boiled potatoes, sliced,
Cold boiled button onions,
Truffles, sliced,
Stoned olives.


334
GOOD-LIVING.
SIMPLE POTATO SALAD.
SALADE DE POMMES DE TERRE.
1 pint of cold boiled potatoes, sliced,
2 tablespoons of pickled beet, cut fine,
I tablespoon of shredded smoked her-
or onion-juice,
I teaspoon of capers,
1 saltspoon of salt,
3 tablespoons of olive oil,
2 ""ice-water,
I teaspoon mushroom catsup,
Pepper as required.
I teaspoon of finely-chopped chervil,
I " "" chives,
ring,
I tablespoon of shredded anchovy,
1 large tablespoon of tomato catsup,
2 tablespoons of vinegar,
I teaspoon of Worcestershire sauce,
I " "finely-chopped parsley,
Use potatoes which have been boiled with their skins on
and peeled when cold. Do not fail to do this, as they slice
much more neatly. Add all the ingredients; mix well, and
set in the ice-box for 2 hours. This salad is recommended;
it is called "simple," to distinguish it from the orthodox
Potato Salad, which is said to contain 32 ingredients.
Prepare exactly as for Red Bean Salad (see seceipt).
CHICKEN SALAD WITH LETTUCE.
MAYONNAISE DE VOLAILLE.
Cut the chicken in small dice; do not chop it for this
salad. Pour over it half the quantity given for French
Dressing; let it stand for several hours in the ice-box.
When ready to serve, put the chicken in a neat mound in
the salad-bowl; arrange the lettuce around, and spread the
Mayonnaise (see receipt) over it. Put the heart of the let-
tuce in the centre. Garnish with olives, strips of beet,
pickles, capers, hard-boiled eggs, etc., according to taste.
SALAD OF LENTILS.
SALADE DE LENTILLES.
I pint of cold boiled chicken,
1 head of lettuce, crisped,
2 gills of Mayonnaise Sauce,
French Dressing.


VEAL SALAD.
335
CHICKEN AND CELERY SALAD.
1 pint or cold chicken, cut in dice, I pint of celery, cut in pieces,
2 gills of Mayonnaise or Mustard Dressing, French Dressing.
Mix the chicken as described above with French Dressing,
of which use I tablespoonful of oil instead of 3. Set away
for several hours in the ice-box. When ready to serve, mix
the celery with the chicken; arrange it in a neat mound;
cover with Mayonnaise or Mustard Dressing (see receipts);
edge with the white celery leaves, and garnish as above.
CHICKEN SALAD.
Lettuce or celery (I pint), French Dressing,
1 scant pint of chicken, cut fine, I gill of grated bread-crumbs,
2 gills of Mustard Dressing or Mayonnaise.
Mix together the chopped chicken, crumbs, and French
Dressing. When ready to serve, add the Mustard Dressing
(see receipt) and celery 'or lettuce as above.
TURKEY OLIO.
I pint of turkey, chopped fine, I pint of celery, cut fine.
French Dressing,
Mix together turkey, celery, and dressing, Set in the ice-
box for 1 hour. Add a little more vinegar than directed for
plain dressing, and a pinch of cayenne. This is a delicious
dish.
VEAL SALAD.
MAYONNAISE DE VEAU.
1 pint of tender cold veal, cut in dice, French Dressing,
2 gills Mayonnaise or Mustard Dressing, I head crisped lettuce.
Put the veal in the salad-bowl, mixed with the French
Dressing. Set it in the ice-box for 1 hour. Arrange it in a
neat mound. Cover with Mayonnaise, and garnish with let-


336
GOOD-LIVING.
tuce. The Mayonnaise may be replaced by a larger quantity
of French Dressing or by Mustard Dressing. Add a dash
of tarragon vinegar and a pinch of cayenne. It is further
improved by the addition of a crust of stale bread rubbed
with onion 01 garlic, and mixed through the salad. This
chapon improves the delicate flavor of the salad.
BOUIILI SALAD.
SALADE DE BOUILLI.
I pint of cold boiled beef, 6 hard-boiled eggs,
I teaspoon of chopped chives or Cayenne,
grated onion, Tarragon vinegar,
1 tablespoon chopped parsley, Remoulade or Vinaigrette Sauce.
Do not chop the beef too fine, rather cut it in small dice.
Cut the eggs up in the same way; add parsley, chives. Pour
over the sauce (see receipts). Add a dash of cayenne and
extra vinegar to taste. Mix and set away for at least 1 hour
before serving. Excellent.
MAYONNAISE OF SWEETBREADS.
MAYONNAISE DE RIS DE VEAU.
1 pair of large sweetbreads, 1 head of lettuce,
2 gills of Mayonnaise, I teaspoon of tarragon vinegar.
Clean and boil the sweetbreads as directed, for 20 minutes
(see receipt). When cooked, remove all skin and fibres and
set away to cool. Then cut them into small, even dice.
Crisp the lettuce (see receipt). Make the Mayonnaise (see
receipt) in a soup-plate, the bottom of which you have
rubbed with the cut side of half an onion. Add a little
tarragon vinegar. Mix the Mayonnaise with the sweet-
breads; arrange them in a mound in the salad-bowl, sur-
rounded by a row of lettuce leaves. If a stronger flavor of
onion is liked, cut a small crust of bread, rub it all over with
onion, and mix it through the sweetbreads. This chapon
must of course not be served. Garlic may be used instead
of onion for the latter.


HARD-BOILED EGG SALAD.
SARDINE SALAD.
SALADE DE SARDINES.
SALADE DE SARDINES.
Skin and quarter the fish. Finish as directed for Shad-
Roe Salad.
SCALLOP SALAD.
See receipt in chapter on Shell-Fish. Highly recommended.
LOBSTER MAYONNAISE.
MAYONNAISE DE HOMARD.
I pint of cold boiled lobster meat, I head of crisped lettuce,
2 gills of Mayonnaise or Mustard Dress- All the fat, both green and red, of the
ing,
lobster.
Cut the lobster meat in inch dice. Put it into a bowl,
and set it on the ice. Make a Mayonnaise, or a Mustard
Dressing, adding to the latter the yolk of an egg. Into this
sauce mix every atom of fat, rubbed to a smooth paste.
Add 1 teaspoonful of tarragon or Maille vinegar, if you can
do so without thinning the sauce too much. Have your
curled lettuce well crisped (see receipt). Separate the leaves.
Having mixed together the lobster and dressing, fill each
curled leaf with about 2 tablespoonfuls of the mixture, as a
cup. Arrange tastefully on a flat dish, and serve very cold.
This is not only very pretty, but delicious.
HARD-BOILED EGG SALAD.
EUFS DURS EN SALADE.
6 or 8 hard-boiled eggs, Remoulade or Vinaigrette Sauce.
Boil the eggs (see receipt). Slice them. Arrange neatly
on a dish with either sauce (see receipt) poured over. Set in
the ice-box at least 1 hour before serving.
22


338
GOOD-LIVING.
MA YONNAISE OF SALMON.
MAYONNAISE DE SAUMON.
Boil 2 salmon steaks as directed (see Boiled Salmon).
Flake the fish. Heap it in a salad-bowl, having mixed it
with French Dressing. Set it in the ice-box. When ready
to serve, cover with Mayonnaise or with Mustard Dressing
(see receipts); garnish with crisp lettuce leaves, hard-boiled
eggs, pickled beets, olives, etc., to taste. Serve cold.
SALMON WITH MA YONNAISE SA UCE.
SAUMON, SAUCE MAYONNAISE.
This makes a very handsome dish for supper. Select
a fine large salmon; boil as directed (see receipt). When
boiled, place between 2 dishes and set away to cool, with, a
little of the fish-stock poured over to keep it moist. Make
2 or 3 times the quantity of Mayonnaise indicated in the
receipt. When ready, dish the fish carefully on a long fish-
dish ; spread the Mayonnaise over the entire fish; garnish it
tastefully with sliced lemon, crisped lettuce leaves, pickled
beets, hard-boiled eggs, and olives. Set in a very cold place
until ready to serve.
SHAD-ROE SALAD.
1 pair of shad-roes, I teaspoon of salt,
2 gills of Mayonnaise or Mustard Dressing, Onion.
Wash the roes. Put them into a saucepan with the salt
and boiling water to cover. Boil very gently 20 minutes.
Remove; drain; set away to cool. When cold, cut in dice.
Make the Mayonnaise (see receipt) in a plate, the bottom
and sides of which have been rubbed with the cut side of an
onion. Set it in the ice-box until wanted. Crisp the lettuce
(see receipt). When ready to serve, arrange the shad-roes in
a salad-bowl; cover with the dressing ; arrange the lettuce in


SHRIMP SALAD.
339
a circle around, and serve. If the flavor of onion is liked,
add to the salad a chapon as described in Mayonnaise of
Sweetbread ; garlic may be used instead of onion.
CRAB SALAD.
See receipt for same in chapter on Shell-Fish.
SHRIMP SALAD.
SALADE DE CREVETTES.
Boil the shrimps in salted boiling water until the shells
turn pink. When cold, remove the meat from the shells
without breaking it. When very cold, add to every pint of
shrimp-meat 2 gills of Mayonnaise or Mustard Dressing.
Have ready a head of crisp, curled lettuce. Arrange the
mayonnaise of shrimps in the separated lettuce leaves, put-
ting about 2 tablespoonfuls of the mixture into each leaf, as
in a shell; arrange the leaves tastefully on a flat dish and
serve very cold. Lobster, crab, or other mayonnaise may be
served in the same way ; it is no more trouble, and makes a
very much prettier dish.



SAVORY RELISHES.
WELSH RARE-BIT.
2 cups of grated cheese, 2 eggs, yolks only,
1 gill of milk or porter, Salt and cayenne to taste.
Cut thin, square slices of bread; remove the crusts and
toast them. While hot, butter generously, and moisten with
a few teaspoonfuls of boiling water. Keep them hot while
the rare-bit is being prepared. Stand the milk (wine or
porter) in a china-lined saucepan over a moderate fire; when
boiling, add the cheese (fresh American cheese is best); stir
constantly until the cheese is entirely dissolved. Add cay-
enne and salt. Have the yolks of eggs beaten to a cream.
Stir them rapidly into the cheese, and pour immediately
over the hot toast. Serve quickly on a hot-water plate or
very hot dish, as standing spoils it. If the cheese is not very
rich, add a lump of butter the size of a walnut. Beer, ale,
or porter should always accompany Welsh rare-bit.
Note.—Should the rare-bit be stringy, it is due to the fact
of the cheese not being sufficiently rich.
GOLDEN BUCK.
2 cups of grated cheese % teaspoon of made mustard,
Yx teaspoon of salt, Cayenne,
6 poached eggs, 6 squares of buttered toast,
I cup of milk, red wine, or porter.
Prepare the toast as for Welsh Rare-bit. Bring the milk
(wine or porter) to a boil in a china-lined saucepan; add the
cheese, mustard, salt, and cayenne. Stir continually until
the cheese is dissolved. Pour it on the hot toast. Mean-
while, poach the eggs (see receipt). Put an egg on the top
340


TOASTED CHEESE.
341
of each piece of toast; sprinkle with salt and pepper; serve
very hot as above directed. Do not let it stand a minute.
Beer, ale, or porter should be served at the same time.
CHEESE STRAWS.
I cup of grated cheese, I cup of flour,
Butter, size of an egg, Cold water,
Cayenne.
Mix together the flour and cheese; add cayenne, then
butter; add enough cold water to make a paste; roll out
thin; cut in strips \ inch wide by 7 inches long, and bake.
They will take a very few minutes to bake if the oven is hot.
Serve, when cold, tied in a bunch with a fresh ribbon.
CHEESE FONDU.
Y pound of sifted flour, 3 eggs,
yi " grated Gruyere and Parmesan, y& pound of butter,
mixed, 1 gill of milk or cream,
Pinch of grated nutmeg, Salt and pepper.
Melt the butter; stir in the flour and mix thoroughly.
Add the boiling milk ; stir and boil for about 2 minutes until
very thick. Remove from the fire. When slightly cooled,
work in the yolks of eggs, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and cheese.
Mix thoroughly. Have ready buttered I pudding-dish or
several small souffle-cases. Beat the whites of eggs to a very
stiff froth; beat them into the mixture; fill the dish § full
of the mixture and bake in a moderately-quick oven for
about 20 to 25 minutes. Serve immediately. This dish
must not stand.
TOASTED CHEESE.
I cup of grated cheese, I gill of cream,
Cayenne, 1 yolk of egg,
Butter, the size of a hickory-nut.
Have ready neatly trimmed, very small pieces of buttered
toast cut in squares or circles. Melt the cheese slowly in the


342
GOOD-LIVING.
boiling cream over the fire; when hot, remove; stir in the
yolk of egg and butter. Put the toast on a hot-water dish;
spread the cheese over the toast and serve immediately, or
it will toughen. The dish may be placed before the fire to
let the cheese toast before serving. Excellent for luncheon
or supper.
CHEESE SALAD.
yi, pound of grated cheese,
I teaspoon of salt,
I " of sugar,
I tablespoon of onion or Maille vinegar,
I tablespoon of olive oil,
I hard-boiled egg,
% saltspoon of cayenne,
I teaspoon of made mustard.
Rub together to a paste the yolk of egg and oil ; add, first,
salt, then pepper, sugar, mustard; when well mixed, add the
cheese. Mix again. Add vinegar. Serve in crab-shells or
in small china cases. Eat with biscuits and butter. One
cup of cold minced chicken may be added as an improve-
ment. Good for luncheon and supper.
N. B.—The above is considered to have the flavor of crab-
salad, and is sometimes called Mock Crab Salad.
SARDINES ON TOAST WITH CHEESE.
Prepare thin slices of crisp, buttered toast. Drain the oil
from the sardines; skin and split them. Lay them on the
toast. Set in the oven until thoroughly hot, but be careful
not to let the toast dry too much. The sardines may first
be given a thin coating of grated Parmesan. Serve immedi-
ately on a hot-water plate. Good for supper.
DEVILLED BISCUIT WITH CHEESE.
Take some Bent's water crackers, or other water bis-
cuits; split them; butter each half generously; sprinkle
over it a layer of cheese; set these in a baking-pan. Dust
over with cayenne, and set in a quick oven for about 5 min-
utes. As soon as the cheese is melted, serve very hot.
Excellent for supper.


BOMBA Y TOAST.
343
PLAIN DEVILLED BISCUIT.
Split biscuit as above; butter thickly; season with cay-
enne; set in a biscuit-pan in a quick oven until nicely
browned. Serve immediately for luncheon or supper.
ANCHOVY TOAST.
Make thin, evenly-browned slices of toast, from which
remove the crust. Butter thickly; spread lightly with an-
chovy-paste; set for I minute in the open oven and serve
immediately on a hot-water plate for luncheon or supper.
INDIAN SANDWICHES.
Prepare thin slices of bread as for toast. Cut them round
with a sharp tin cutter. Fry as Croutons (see receipt). Take
some very finely-minced chicken; mix with it an equal quan-
tity of ham or tongue ; stir in 2 tablespoonfuls of thick White
Sauce (see receipt), in which have been blended curry-pow-
der, and lemon-juice to taste. Warm in a stewpan. Place
a spoonful of the mixture between every 2 slices of toast.
Arrange on a folded napkin or cut paper and serve hot.
N. B.—-The filling should be of the consistency of soft
paste; it must not run. Very good for luncheon or supper.
SCOTCH WOODCOCK.
Chop 2 hard-boiled eggs fine; put them into a saucepan
with 1 tablespoonful of butter melted with 2 of anchovy
sauce. When dissolved, serve on small rounds of buttered
toast neatly arranged on a hot-water plate. Do not boil, but
heat thoroughly.
BOMBA Y TOAST.
Put a large spoonful of butter in a saucepan over boiling
water; as it melts, stir in 2 eggs, cayenne, essence of anchovy,
and a few chopped capers. Stir until the eggs begin to set.
Spread on small rounds of buttered toast. Serve on a hot-
water plate as above.


344
GooD-Livma.
SALTED ALMONDS.
Select the best paper-shelled almonds. Remove the shells.
Put them in a bowl. Pour boiling water over them and let
stand for 15 or 20 minutes. By that time the skins will slip
off easily. Skin them. Lay the almonds on a tin pie-plate
without drying them. Sprinkle thickly with salt and turn
them over that the salt may touch all sides. Place them in
a moderately-hot oven, shaking occasionally, and turning the
pan, if one side browns quicker than the other. When golden
brown, remove them from the oven. Pick out the almonds
and throw aside the extra salt that remains.
Some authorities advocate dipping first in white of egg,
then in salt; but experience of this method has shown that
the almonds take up too thick a coating of salt to be
agreeable.
A great addition to the above receipt is to put 1 teaspoon-
ful of olive oil to 1 cupful of shelled almonds, which have
been dried in a cloth. Let each nut receive its coating of
the oil; then add about 1 heaping teaspoonful of salt, and
finish as above. Almonds prepared according to this last
method are delicious.



ORDER OF SERVICE OF A DINNER.
As it does not enter into the plan of the present work to give
a list of menus, it may not be amiss to give a general outline of
the proper order of service of dinner, (see below) leaving the
hostess to select the dishes. One suggestion offered is, that,
in the composition of a menu repetition should be avoided;
do not allow any two white sauces, or brown sauces, any two
fried meats, or fried fish and meat, to follow each other so closely
as to be noticeable. It is advisable, also, to select such dishes
as the cook is perfectly familiar with; that, when required
to give her attention to the entertainment of her guests, the
hostess may not be preoccupied with fears of how Bridget may
see fit to interpret some new receipt. Again, do not attempt
too complicated or lengthy •». menu, for it is not quantity
which makes a successful dinner, but quality, tasteful arrange-
ment and garnishing, and neat, orderly service.
Form of menu for 6 or 8 persons:
Raw Oysters or Clams.
Soup, such as Consomme or Bisque, etc.
Hors d'CEuvre; Olives, Radishes, Celery.
Fish, such as Sheepshead, Sauce Hollandaise, with Potatoes au Court Bouillon.
I or 2 Entrees, such as Croquettes, Vol-au-vent, Sweetbreads; or,
Filets Mignons, Salmi, etc., etc.
Vegetable, such as Cauliflower with Tomato Sauce, Celery au Jus, etc.
Roast, such as Saddle of Mutton, with vegetable, such as green peas.
Game and Salad.
Dessert; Ices, Cakes, etc., etc.
Coffee and Liqueurs.
N. B.—Should Game not be used, serve the Salad with the Roast in place of
the vegetable there mentioned. Should cheese be used, serve after dessert.
For a dinner of 12 or more persons there may be added to
the above a Bouche of some kind after the Hors d CEuvre;
345


GOOD-LIVING.
and, if liked, Roman Punch may be served between the
Roast and Game. If 2 soups should be required for a large
dinner, let one be a clear Consomme1 or Bouillon, the other
a Bisque or Puree. For the family dinner, the above may, of
course, be modified according to requirements.



RELISHES FOR BREAKFAST.
The following suggestions are offered as an assistance
in ordering breakfast. The receipts will be readily found
by reference to the index. The receipts for cooking the
various cereals, such as oatmeal, cracked-wheat, etc., are not
given, as each package has upon it the directions for its use,
which vary so much with the different modes of preparing
the same cereals for market, that it has been deemed unwise
to fix any rules for them in the present work.
EGGS.
Omelet, Plain,
Eggs, Boiled, Soft and Hard,
"Fried,
"" with liacon,
'' Poached,
"4 l'Aurore,
"Fried with Ham,
"sur le Plat,
"sur le Plat, Tomato Sauce,
"en Caisses,
"with Smoked Beef, etc.
with Tomatoes,
Fine Herbs,
Asparagus Tips,
Kidneys and Tomatoes,
Ham,
Spanish,
Stirred or Scrambled Eggs,
"with Asparagus Tips,
"with Tomatoes, etc.,
FISH.
Kippered Herring,
Potomac Roe-Herring,
Yarmouth Bloaters,
Salt Mackerel, Broiled,
Finnan Haddie,
Fish a la Delmonico,
Mock Turbot a la Creme,
"Breakfast Fish,"
Codfish Balls or Croquettes,
Herring Balls,
Coddled Oysters,
Stewed Oysters,
Stewed Clams,
Roasted Clams,
Fried Sea-Bass,
"or Broiled Kingfish,
"Smelt,
"Small White-Fish,
Broiled Mackerel,
Fried Blue-Fish Cutlets,
Oysters en Brochette.
Spanish Mackerel,
Shad,
Small Blue-Fish,
347


34$
Good-living.
VEGETABLES AND CEREALS.
Broiled Fresh Mushrooms, Fried Samp,
Corn Oysters, "Hominy,
Potatoes, Fried in Various Styles, "Mush,
"Stewed with Cream Sauce, Boiled Hominy,
Potato Hash, Fried, "Oatmeal,
Cream Potato Hash, Cracked Wheat,
Plain Baked Tomatoes, Wheaten Grits,
Fried Tomatoes, Cornmeal Mush.
MEATS.
Corn-Beef Croquettes,
Hash,
Ham Puffs,
Westphalia Croquettes,
Ham Toast,
Tongue Toast,
Soused Pigs' Feet or Pettitoes,
Fried Pigs' Feet,
Broiled Ham,
Fried Ham and Eggs,
'' Bacon,
Bacon, Fried in Batter,
Toasted Bacon,
Fried Bacon and Eggs,
Scrapple,
Head-Cheese,
Pork Tenderloins,
"Chops,
Sausages, Fried, or with Fried Apples,
Home-Made Breakfast Sausage,
Mutton, Loin Chops, Broiled,
*' Rib Chops, Broiled,
'J Cutlets, Broiled,
Lamb Chops,
Veal Chops, Saute,
Veal Cutlets, Saute or Fried,
Calls' Brains au Beurre Noir,
Liver and Bacon,
Liver, Saute1,
Fourchette,
Lambs' Kidneys en Brochette,
""Broiled,
Beef's '' Stewed with Wine,
""Saute,
""Broiled,
Broiled Porter-House Steak,
"Beefsteak with Fried Potatoes,
"Plain Baked
Tomatoes,
Broiled Beefsteak with Fried Tomatoes
""a la Shrewsbury, with
Broiled Mushrooms,
Broiled Steak, Stewed Mushrooms,
*' "Maltre d'Hotel Butter,
""a la Bearnaise,
Smoked Beef with Cream Sauce,
"with Eggs,
Turkey Hash,
Chicken Hash,
Cream of Veal,
"of Chicken,
Broiled Chicken,
Boston Brown Hash,
Hash, Browned in a Mould,
Meat Sausages,
Chicken Livers, Saute.


Hot cakes, Etc.
HOT CAKES, ETC.
Buckwheat Cakes,
Flannel-Cakes and All Kinds of Grid-
dle Cakes,
Sally Lunn,
Virginia Batter Cake,
Muffins of All Kinds,
Crumpets,
Gems of Various Kinds,
Breakfast Puffs,
Laplanders,
Pop-Overs,
Corn-Bread,
Corn Drops,
Johnny Cake,
Hoe-Cake and other Corn Cakes,
Biscuits,
Hot Rolls.
Boston Brown Bread.



EGGS.
EGGS SUR LE PL A T.
CEUFS SUR LE PLAT.
Butter a fire-proof plate or pie-tin; carefully break upon
it as many eggs as it will hold side by side. Sprinkle with
pepper and salt. Put in the oven until the white is set,
about 5 minutes. To make more perfect, heat the kitchen
shovel red-hot and hold it close over the eggs for a few
seconds, until the yolks also are slightly set, then serve im-
mediately. They must not stand. If preferred, sift grated
cheese over the top. This makes a nice dish for luncheon.
EGGS SUR LE PLA T WITH HAM.
CEUFS SUR LE PLAT AU JAMBON.
Lay a few thin slices of ham on a plate' as above; set it
in the oven or on top of the range to heat through; then
break the eggs upon it, and finish as above.
EGGS SUR LE PLAT WITH ASPARAGUS TIPS.
m
CEUFS SUR LE PLAT, POINTES D'ASPERGES.
Cover the bottom of the buttered plate (see above) with
stewed Asparagus Tips (see receipt); heat; then break in
the eggs and finish as above,
350


PLAM OMELET.
EGGS SUR LE PL A T, TOM A TO SA UCE.
CEUFS SUR LE PLAT, SAUCE TOMATE.
Having prepared the eggs as for Eggs sur le Plat, have
ready heated a rich Tomato Sauce, which pour over the
eggs. Set in the oven I minute, and serve very hot.
N.B.—The eggs must be set firm, as described, before the
sauce is added.
EGGS A LA TRIPE.
CEUFS A LA TRIPE.
Boil the number of eggs required as directed for Hard,
boiled Eggs. When cold, cut in quarters. Prepare a sauce
as follows: Stew 1 chopped onion in 1 tablespoonful of
butter gently, until tender; add salt and pepper, I heaping
teaspoonful of flour blended with 1 cup of cream or rich
milk, a pinch of nutmeg, and a pinch of sugar. Boil gently
for 5 minutes, stirring continually. When thick and smooth,
pour the sauce over the eggs, and serve very hot.
PLAIN OMELET.
OMELETTE.
3 eggs- 2 tablespoons of milk,
teaspoon of flour, Salt and pepper,
Butter size of a pigeon's egg.
Separate the yolks and whites of eggs. Beat the yolks
smooth; then add to them milk, pepper and salt, and pinch
of flour; beat to a cream. Now beat the whites to a stiff
froth; then beat together the whites and yolks until
perfectly smooth and not too frothy. Have the butter
melted in a very smooth, medium-sized frying-pan, which
should be hot but not scorching. Pour in the mixture; let
it stand a minute or two; then loosen the edges with a
knife; shake the pan occasionally to prevent sticking. Then
draw the pan a little aside, where it will cook more slowly.


3*2
GOOD-LIVING.
When the edges seem to be quite set, the pan with the
omelet may be put into the oven for about 1 minute to set
the centre, but this is not indispensable. Now fold the
omelet in 2 or 3, making it long and narrow. Turn a
hot dish downward over the omelet; with a quick move-
ment turn both pan and dish over; garnish the omelet
with parsley and serve immediately, or it will fall. The
chief points in making a good omelet are these: The
eggs should be perfectly fresh, the pan perfectly smooth,
not too hot, and well-greased on bottom and sides with but-
ter; the heat of the fire should be so managed as to neither
scorch the outside by too quick a heat, before the centre is
cooked, nor make it tough and leathery by too little heat.
A successfully-made omelet should always be slightly
"fluffy" in the centre, but must be more flaky than fluffy
through the rest; therefore, beat the yolks and whites well
together before cooking; last, but not least, serve it the
moment it is done.
OMELET WITH TOMATO SAUCE.
OMELETTE, SAUCE TOMATE;
Make a Plain Omelet, or, Parsley Omelet (see receipts).
Prepare a rich Tomato Sauce (see receipt). Pour the sauce
around, not over, the omelet. Serve immediately.
HAM OMELET.
OMELETTE AU JAMBON.
3 eSSs, 2 tablespoons of milk,
% teaspoon of flour, 2 " "chopped ham,
yi " "grated onion, or I tablespoon of chopped parsley,
I tablespoon of chopped chives, Salt and pepper to taste.
Beat the yolks to a cream. Add to them all the other in-
gredients. Mix smooth. Add whites beaten to a froth.
Beat all well together. Melt 1 teaspoonful of butter in a
medium-sized pan. When hot, pour in the mixture. Finish
like Plain Omelet (see receipt).


OYSTER OMELET.
353
CREOLE OMELET.
TORTILLA.
Ham Omelet, 6 Baked Tomatoes (see receipt).
Make the Ham Omelet according to receipt. Have
ready the tomatoes, which should be of uniform size. Gar-
nish the omelet with these and serve immediately.
TOMATO OMELET.
OMELETTE AUX TOMATES.
Parsley Omelet, Stewed tomatoes.
Make a Parsley Omelet as directed; have ready about
2 gills of thick, fruity, stewed tomatoes, highly seasoned.
When the omelet is cooked, pour the tomatoes across the
centre; fold and serve (see Plain Omelet). If you have no
stewed tomatoes at hand, peel and cut some raw; put them
in a frying-pan with a lump of butter and cook over a very
quick fire for about 15 minutes. Season and finish as above.
OYSTER OMELET.
OMELETTE AUX HUtTRES.
12 large or equal bulk of small oysters, 6 eggs,
4 tablespoons of butter, I gill of milk,
I tablespoon of flour, Pepper,
I teaspoon of chopped parsley, Salt.
Fry the oysters, after drying them thoroughly in a cloth,
in very hot butter until slightly browned. Keep them hot
while you prepare the omelet. Beat the yolks and whites
of the eggs separately. To the yolks add parsley, salt,
pepper, milk, and flour, beating very smooth. Melt 1 table-
spoonful of butter and beat that into the eggs. Mean-
while have the omelet-pan (a large one for the above
quantity), heating on the fire with 2 tablespoonfuls of butter.
Do not let the pan get too hot. Do not allow the butter to
33


354
GOOD-LIVING.
fry, simply to heat quietly. Now beat the whites vigorously
into the yolks; beat until thoroughly mixed and quite
smooth. Pour the mixture into the pan, which must be
placed where it will have an even, steady, but not too
intense heat. Detach the edges of the omelet with a knife.
When set firm enough, lay the hot oysters across the
centre; fold the omelet; dish, and serve immediately.
SARDINE OMELET.
OMELETTE AUX SARDINES.
4 or 6 sardines, Plain Omelet.
Skin the sardines; put them in a saucepan on the side of
the fire. They may be divided into 4 or more pieces each,
according to size. Warm very carefully but thoroughly.
When the Plain Omelet (see receipt) is set, lay the sardines
across the centre, fold it, and serve immediately as directed.
WHITEBAIT OMELET.
% pound of whitebait, Plain Omelet.
Prepare the Whitebait as directed (see receipt). Prepare
a Plain Omelet (see receipt). When the latter is set, lay
the fish across the centre, fold the omelet over, and serve as
directed. Or, cook the whitebait (or use those already
cooked from the day before); beat them in with the yolks
of eggs; mix in the whites, and finish as directed. The fish
should be seasoned with salt and cayenne.
PARSLEY OMELET.
OMELETTE AU PERSIL.
Plain Omelet (see receipt), 1 tablespoon of chopped parsley.
Mix the parsley with the yolks; add whites, and finish as
directed.


POTATO OMELET. 355
OMELETTE AUX FINES HERBES.
Plain Omelet (see receipt), I tablespoon of chives, chopped very
I tablespoon of parsley, chopped very fine,
fine, I tablespoon of chervil, chopped very
fine.
Mix the herbs with the yolks; add the beaten whites,
and finish as directed.
BREAD OMELET.
OMELETTE AU PAIN.
3 eSSs, X teaspoon of salt,
I gill of bread-crumbs, , I gill of milk,
Butter the size of a walnut, Pepper to taste.
Beat the whites and yolks apart. Add to the yolks the
milk, salt, pepper, and crumbs. Mix. Beat into this the
whites; mix thoroughly. Melt the butter in a very smooth
frying-pan. When hot, pour in the eggs. In a minute or
two loosen the edges with a knife. When slightly firm,
place the pan in the oven for I minute to set the centre.
Be careful not to let it harden. Fold it in 2 or 3, and dish
as directed. Serve immediately or it will fall. Economical
and good. For detailed directions see Plain Omelet.
POTATO OMELET.
OMELETTE AUX POMMES DE TERRE.
2 boiled potatoes, chopped fine, teaspoon of flour,
2 tablespoons of butter, 3 eggs,
I tablespoon of chopped parsley, Pepper and salt,
1 tablespoon of milk.
The potatoes should be boiled with their skins on, and
not peeled until cold. Melt 1 tablespoonful of butter in a
frying-pan; turn in the potatoes; turn with a flat knife
until nicely browned; add parsley, pepper, and salt, and set
on one side to keep hot while you make a Plain Omelet


356
GOOD-LIVING.
(see receipt). When the eggs are slightly set, sprinkle in
the potatoes, and fold. Serve immediately; an omelet
must never stand.
SPANISH OMELET.
OMELETTE A L'ESPAGNOLE.
6 egf?s, 1 small onion or half-clove of garlic,
3 tablespoons of milk, I medium-sized tomato,
]4r pound of bacon, cut fine, % teaspoon of flour,
Butter the size of a walnut, 5 mushrooms, chopped.
Pepper and salt.
Fry the bacon brown; add to it tomato, mushrooms
chopped not too fine, and the onion or garlic chopped very
fine; stir over the fire for 15 minutes. Break the eggs
whites and yolks apart. Beat the yolks and add to them
salt, pepper, flour, and milk. Add lastly the whites, and
beat until smooth. Melt the butter in a smooth frying-
pan; when hot, pour in the eggs; in a minute or two, loosen
the edges with a knife. When nearly set, pour in the
tomato mixture; fold over, and dish on a hot platter.
Serve immediately. For detailed directions see receipt for
Plain Omelet.
ONION OMELET.
OMELETTE A L'OGNON.
Plain Omelet (see receipt), I tablespoon of butter,
1 large onion, minced fine.
Stew the onion in butter until tender. Mix the omelet as
directed; pour it into the pan with the onion; stir once to
mix, and finish as above.
CHEESE OMELET.
OMELETTE AU FROMAGE.
Plain Omelet (see receipt), ^ cup cream or rich milk,
^ cup of grated cheese.
Mix the cheese with the cream; stir smooth quickly.
Add these to the yolks; season with pepper and salt to
taste; add whites and finish as directed.


RUM OMELET.
357
KIDNEY OMELET.
OMELETTE AUX ROGNONS, SAUCE TOMATE.
Plain Omelet (see receipt), Stewed Kidney (see receipt),
Tomato Sauce (see receipt).
The kidneys should be very carefully stewed to be tender,
and wine should be added. When the omelet is ready to fold,
lay the kidneys across the centre; fold; dish. Pour over
and around a thick, rich Tomato Sauce, to which must be
added the remaining gravy of the kidneys, and a little more
wine if necessary. Serve immediately. Recommended.
TRUFFLE OMELET.
OMELETTE AUX TRUFFES.
Make a Plain Omelet (see receipt). Slice the truffles; heat
them very carefully with butter and a very little white wine
or sherry. When the omelet is ready to fold, place these in
a row across the centre; fold; dish, and serve immediately.
MUSHROOM OMELET.
OMELETTE AUX CHAMPIGNONS.
Stew fresh mushrooms (see receipt). Make a Plain
Omelet (see receipt). When it is ready to fold, place the
mushrooms across the centre; fold and dish. Pour the
mushroom sauce over, and serve immediately.
RUM OMELET.
OMELETTE AU RHUM.
Plain Omelet (see receipt), I gill of Jamaica rum,
Powdered sugar.
Omit pepper and add a pinch of salt and a little sugar to
the yolks, milk, and flour. Beat together whites and yolks,
but not as much as for an ordinary omelet. When cooked as
directed, put it on a dish which can be set in the oven;
cover with powdered sugar; add a little of the rum, and set


358
GOOD-LIVING.
it in the oven for 2 minutes. Take it out; add the rest of the
rum; set fire to it with a match, and serve while blazing. If
it is heated with the rum it will burn for a few minutes
longer. Excellent.
OMELET WITH SWEETMEATS.
OMELETTE AUX CONFITURES.
Plain Omelet (see receipt), 2 gills of preserves.
Make the omelet as directed, omitting pepper and add-
ing a pinch of salt and a little powdered sugar to the yolks.
When ready to fold, spread the preserves in a row across the
centre ; fold and dish. Sprinkle with powdered sugar. Heat
the kitchen poker red-hot, and hold it diagonally across the
top of the omelet in 3 places, for an instant. This burns
the sugar and gives to the omelet the appearance of having
been broiled. Peach marmalade, strawberry preserves, or
plum jam are best for the purpose. Excellent.
TO BOIL EGGS.
CEUFS A LA COQUE.
Put your eggs in a bowl which can be sent to table. When
the kettle is boiling, pour the boiling water over the eggs. It
is essential that the water should be boiling. Stand for 5
minutes. Drain. Add more boiling water. Let stand again
5 minutes and serve.
This way of boiling eggs, though so simple, is going out of
fashion in these days; unfortunately, as it makes a wonder-
ful difference, not only in the appearance of the egg when
broken open, but, above all, in its digestibility. For the use
of invalids, eggs should never be boiled in any other way.
SMOKED BEEF AND EGGS.
1 cup of smoked beef, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley,
6 eggs.
Put the beef in a frying-pan with boiling water to cover;
scald 5 minutes. Throw off the water; add a small lump of
butter. Break the eggs, meanwhile, into a bowl; beat until


TO BOIL EGGS HARD.
359
smooth; add I tablespoonful of milk, a dash of pepper, and
pour the eggs into the pan with the beef and butter. St1r
them over a moderately-hot fire, always scraping the egg
from the bottom of the pan. Remove the pan from the fire
a little before it is firm enough, and continue to scrape the
egg from the bottom, as it will continue to harden. Serve for
breakfast.
BAKED EGGS.
CEUFS FARCIS.
6 eggs, boiled, 1 egg, raw,
2 tablespoons of finely-chopped chicken, yi teaspoon of ground mace,
2 mushrooms, chopped, Salt and pepper,
I tablespoon of finely-chopped parsley, I large slice of ham.
Boil the Eggs Hard as described (see receipt). When cold,
cut in half, crosswise. Remove a little slice from the bottom
to make them stand. Take out the yolks ; rub them smooth
and add to them chicken, mushrooms, parsley, and season-
ings, mixing well. Fill the whites with this, rounding up
the tops. Brush with the yolk of the raw egg and set in the
oven to brown. Cut a thin slice of boiled ham; heat it
in the frying-pan; divide it into 12 small squares. When the
tops of the eggs are browned, set them on a hot dish with a
piece of ham under each. Pour Cream Sauce (see receipt)
around, not over, the eggs, and serve very hot. A pretty dish
for luncheon.
TO BOIL EGGS HARD.
If to eat plain boiled, put the eggs into a saucepan of boil-
ing water and boil from 6 to 10 minutes. If they are to be
dressed and served cut in sections, they should be put into a
saucepan of boiling water and boiled rapidly for 25 minutes;
throw the water off then, and allow cold water to run over,
them 2 or 3 minutes ; then set aside in fresh cold water 20 or
30 minutes. If managed in this way, the whites will not
break as easily, nor the yolks crumble as much, when cut.
To remove the shells, roll them gently on the table until the
shell is cracked closely all over; then you can draw off skin,
shell and all, without marring the surface of the egg.


360
GOOD-LIVING.
POACHED EGGS.
CEUFS POCHES.
Put boiling water into a frying-pan with salt and 1 table-
spoonful of vinegar. Bring to a boil. Have ready rounds
of toast nicely trimmed and buttered. Break the eggs, 1
by I, into a saucer; when the water is boiling hard, draw
the frying-pan aside; drop in the eggs; set the pan where it
will simmer very gently, until the eggs are set firm; pour
some of the boiling water with a spoon over the yolk of
each egg, just enough to make a thin film of white. When
set firm, remove with a skimmer, putting 1 egg on each
slice of toast. Trim off the ragged edges; sprinkle a dash
of pepper on the very centre of each egg, and serve very
hot. Do not let them stand.
N. B.—Do not let the water boil while the eggs are cook-
ing, or they will be broken and ragged.
POACHED EGGS, WITH ANCHOVY TOAST.
CEUFS AUX ANCHOIS.
Make six rounds of buttered toast. Spread each lightly
with anchovy paste, and set on a hot dish in the mouth of
the oven. Poach six eggs as described above. Place an
egg on each piece of toast; pepper the top, and serve
very hot.
EGGS AU BEURRE NOIR.
CEUFS AU BEURRE NOIR.
Melt I large tablespoonful of butter in the frying-pan.
Break the eggs, 1 by 1, on a saucer, and, when the butter is
hot, slip them into the pan. When the whites are nearly
set, baste the eggs with a little of the hot butter. Sprinkle
with salt and pepper. Put the eggs on a hot dish. Set the
pan on the hot fire, and, when the butter is browned, add a
large tablespoonful of vinegar. Boil up once and pour over
the eggs. Serve very hot. If there is not enough butter in
the pan after the eggs are cooked, add a tablespoonful; let
it fry brown, then add the vinegar as above.


EGGS A L'AURORE.
361
HAM AND EGGS.
CEUFS AU JAMBON.
The ham for this should be previously boiled. Cut slices
of medium thickness, 1 for each egg; lay the ham in a
hot frying-pan; fry for 2 or 3 minutes on each side, until
the fat is transparent, then lay it on a hot platter. Break
the eggs, 1 by 1, into a saucer. Put each into the frying-pan
and fry until the white is quite set. The fat of the ham is
generally sufficient for frying the eggs; if not, add a lump
of butter. Remove the eggs; lay each on a separate piece
of ham. If the eggs merge into each other in the pan, cut
them neatly apart with the edge of the cake-turner. Serve
hot. This is a national dish of Holland.
FRIED EGGS.
CEUFS FRITS.
Proceed as above, omitting the ham and using enough
butter to grease the pan thoroughly.
EGGS A LAURORE.
CEUFS A l'aurore.
8 eggs, 1 tablespoon of chopped rh'""c.
I tablespoon of chopped parsley, I pint of Cream Sauce,
Salt, Pepper.
Put the eggs into boiling water, and let them boil rapidly
25 minutes. Drain; let the cold water run on them a few
minutes; then cover with cold water and set aside 20 to 30
minutes. Have ready the Cream Sauce (see receipt); stir
into it parsley, chives, pepper, and salt. Now cut the eggs
in quarters lengthwise; remove the yolks, which you throw
into a coarse sieve. Place the whites on a platter, making
an even row all round near the edge, with the points turned
outward and upward; fill in the centre in the same way.
Pour the hot cream sauce over these, covering all except


362
GOOD-LIVING.
the outer half of the row of whites on the edge of the dish.
Now, with a potato-masher, rub the yolks through the
sieve, scattering them evenly all over the sauce, still leaving
visible the points of the whites. Have ready on the fire a
pot of boiling water; stand the dish of eggs over this for
about 5 minutes till well-heated again. Serve. If it has
been done quickly, the sauce will not have had time to cool,
and the eggs will soon warm. If you have a double dish
with a hot-water compartment, use it for the above. This
will be found not only delicious, but very pleasing to the
eye, and most simple to make.
CURRIED EGGS.
CEUFS AU KARI.
8 hard-boiled eggs (see receipt),
I pint of Cream Sauce (see receipt),
1 teaspoon of chopped parsley,
Salt and pepper,
I teaspoon of curry-powder,
I " "chopped chives.
When the cream sauce is prepared, blend and stir into it
the curry-powder; then add parsley, chives, salt, and pepper.
Keep it hot over boiling water, while you prepare the eggs.
Having already boiled the eggs, cut them in halves; lay
them in a deep dish; pour over them the sauce. Cover.
Set the dish over boiling water for 10 minutes, until the
eggs are thoroughly heated, and serve.
STIRRED OR SCRAMBLED EGGS.
CEUFS brou1ll£s.
Break the eggs into a bowl; beat them thoroughly
together; add a teaspoonful of cream to each egg; season
with pepper and salt. Have ready a saucepan with melted
butter. Do not cook over too hot a fire. Pour in the eggs;
stir and scrape from the bottom of the saucepan without
ceasing, until as thick as batter. Remove. Continue to
stir for a few moments after removing from the fire, as they
will harden. Serve on buttered toast.


TRUFFLED EGGS AU JUS.
363
STIRRED EGGS WITH TOMATOES.
EUFS BROUILLÉS AUX TOMATES.
Proceed as above, omitting the cream and adding 1 large
tablespoonful of the fruity part of stewed tomatoes to each
egg; pepper, salt, and a pinch of chopped parsley. Finish
as above. Delicious.
EGGS EN MATELOTE.
EUFS EN MATELOTE.
6 eggs,
6 slices of toast,
Matelote Sauce (see receipt).
Have ready 6 rounds of buttered toast. Bring the sauce
to a boil. Break the eggs into a saucer i by 1, and poach
in the sauce. Draw the saucepan aside where it will only
simmer gently while the eggs are cooking. Remove with
a skimmer; put one egg on each slice of toast. Let the
sauce boil up again; add more wine and a little thickening,
about 1 teaspoonful of butter rubbed up with 2 of flour.
Stir and boil 3 minutes. Pour over the eggs and serve.
TRUFFLED EGGS AU JUS.
EUFS TRUFFÉS AU JUS.
6 eggs,
I gill of rich cream or milk,
3 truffles,
Salt and pepper,
3 gills of Jus (see Brown Gravy),
Butter.
Use only the best truffles. Chop not too fine. Break
the eggs into a bowl and beat until whites and yolks are
well mixed. Add a scant gill of cream ; salt and pepper to
taste. Melt i tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan. Pour
in the eggs and stir over a slow fire without ceasing until
beginning to thicken. Keep the eggs scraped from the
bottom of the saucepan or your dish will be spoiled. At
this point, stir in the truffles. Continue to stir the eggs
until as thick as batter; then remove from the fire, as they
will harden a little afterward. Stir for a moment. Dish


364
GOOD-LIVING.
on a round entree dish. Have ready a very rich gravy. It
must have no thickening but its own concentrated strength
and richness. If the Jus is not obtainable, boil down con-
somme until it reaches the required degree of strength and
richness. Pour it around, not over, the eggs, and serve.
This is a delicious and appetizing dish for luncheon.
EGGS WITH MUSHROOMS.
CEUFS AUX CHAMPIGNONS.
May be cooked as above, using mushrooms instead of
truffles, and their sauce instead of the jus, the mushrooms
having been previously stewed (see receipt).
EGG-FOND U.
FONDU AU FRO MAGE.
6 eggs, ^ teaspoon of salt,
4 heaping tablespoons of grated cheese, Cayenne,
I tablespoon of butter, I gill of rich milk.
Beat the eggs together until light; add salt, pepper,
grated cheese, and a scant gill of cream or new milk. Melt
the butter in a frying-pan. When hot, pour in the eggs and
stir until smooth and as thick as batter. Serve immediately
on buttered toast.
BACON AND EGGS.
Proceed as for Ham and Eggs (see receipt).
EGGS AUX POINTES D'ASPERGES.
CEUFS AUX POINTES D'ASPERGES.
2 gills of cold asparagus-tips, 4 eggs,
2 tablespoons of milk, Salt and pepper,
2 teaspoons of butter, Buttered toast.
Having boiled the asparagus-tips (see receipt), put them
into a saucepan with the butter, salt, and pepper, and heat
slowly. Break the eggs into a bowl, and beat until well


STIRRED EGGS k L*INDIENNE.
365
mixed. Add the milk, salt, and pepper. Melt 1 teaspoonful
of butter in a frying-pan. When hot, pour in the eggs and
stir until almost, but not quite, set (as thick as batter).
Turn in the asparagus-tips and stir only just enough to mix
without breaking the tips. Scrape the eggs from the bot-
tom of the pan; remove from the fire before the eggs are
quite firm, and continue to stir for a few moments, as they
will harden a little. Serve very hot on buttered toast.
EGGS EN CAISSES.
CEUFS EN CAISSES.
Use small souffle-cases, or small casseroles with 3 legs and
a handle, which are made expressly for eggs. Butter the
inside; half-fill with bread-crumbs, browned in butter, sea-
soned with pepper, salt, and chopped parsley. Break an egg
into each case; set in the oven for 5 minutes, or until half-
firm; or, set in a pan of boiling water on the top of the
range. The water should reach only £ the height of the
cases. Do not let the eggs cook until hard.
STIRRED EGGS A L'INDIENNE.
CEUFS brou1le£s, A 1.'1nd1enne.
I small onion, chopped fine, 5 ounces of butter,
I teaspoon of curry-powder, Pepper and salt,
6 eggs, 4 tablespoons of cream.
Fry the onion golden brown in 1 ounce of butter. Stir
in the curry-powder. Stir and set aside. Break the eggs
into a bowl; beat until smooth. Add the cream. Melt 4
ounces of butter in a saucepan; pour in the eggs and cream,
then the onion and curry. Stir, and scrape from the bottom
of the saucepan until as thick as batter. Remove from the
fire before the egg hardens too much, and continue to stir
for a few moments. Serve very hot on rounds of buttered
toast. Boiled rice should be served at the same time.


366
good-living.
FRICASS&ED EGGS.
CEUFS A LA POULETTE.
I pint of Cream Sauce (see receipt),
I teaspoon of parsley, chopped fine,
1 teaspoon of chives, chopped fine,
8 hard-boiled eggs (see receipt).
Add the herbs to the sauce; season with salt and pepper.
Lay the eggs, cut lengthwise in \, in a deep dish; pour
the sauce over; set for 10 minutes over a pot of boiling
water, and serve immediately.
STUFFED EGGS WITH MA YONNAISE SA UCE.
CEUFS FARCIS, SAUCE MAYONNAISE.
Having boiled the eggs as directed, when quite cold,
remove the shells very carefully, and, with a sharp knife, cut
in two, lengthwise. Rub the yolks to a powder and mix
with an equal bulk of bread-crumbs. Add all the other in-
gredients, and mix. If too dry, moisten with a little milk.
Season highly with cayenne. If you have no chives, use
grated onion to taste. Fill the 12 shells with the mixture,
rounding up the top. Set upon a tin in the oven for about
5 minutes, until delicately browned. Set away to get cold,
and serve with Mayonnaise or Tartare Sauce; or serve hot
with Tomato Sauce (see receipts). Minced chicken may be
substituted for part of the bread-crumbs.
Having stuffed the eggs as above, serve them hot on a
neatly-arranged bed of Spinach (see receipt).
6 hard-boiled eggs (see receipt),
I small cup of stale bread-crumbs,
1 tablespoon of Parmesan, grated,
Chives and parsley, chopped,
I gill of milk,
Cayenne,
1 teaspoon of butter,
Salt and pepper.
EGGS IN A NEST.


OMELET WITH CHICKEN LIVERS SAUtA. 367
EGGS A LA VALENCIENNE.
CEUFS A LA VALENCIENNE.
2 gills of boiled rice, 2 gills of tomato sauce,
2 mushrooms, chopped, ^ teaspoon of salt,
1 truffle," Pepper,
2 tablespoons of grated Parmesan, Pinch of grated nutmeg.
Put into a saucepan the rice, Tomato Sauce (see receipt),
mushrooms, truffle, cheese, pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Stir
over the fire for 5 minutes. Set aside over boiling water
until required. Prepare 8 eggs as directed for Eggs sur le
Plat (see receipt). When the eggs are cooked, arrange the
rice, etc., in 4 parts, 1 at either end and 1 at either side.
Serve very hot.
EGGS A LANDALOUSE.
CEUFS A l'andalouse.
1 pint of Tomato Sauce (see receipt), I tablespoon of butter,
2 sweet peppers, peeled and chopped, I teaspoon of chopped chives,
6 poached eggs, 6 slices of toast.
Fry the chopped peppers in butter; add them to the
tomato sauce with the chives; let the sauce boil briskly for
about 10 minutes, being careful not to scorch it. Have
ready 6 rounds of toast on which lay the 6 Poached Eggs
(see receipt). Pour the sauce over all and serve immediately.
OMELET WITH CHICKEN LIVERS SAUTE'.
omelette aux fo1es de vola1lles.
Prepare chicken livers (see receipt for Chicken Livers
Saute); set aside to keep warm while you prepare a Parsley
Omelet (see receipt). When the omelet is set, lay the
chicken livers across the centre; fold the omelet over and
serve.



BUTTER, CHEESE, ETC.
BUTTER.
The golden rule of good butter-making is: Keep all your
utensils absolutely clean and pure; do not spare time or
trouble in the attainment of this primary necessity. The
milk pans should shine like silver, and be kept airing and
sunning until required for use. Before straining the milk
into the pan, first scald, then rinse the pan in cold water. It
need not be wiped after this last. The milk should be strained
into the pan just as soon as possible after the milking; it
should not stand in the kettle. The cream should be allowed
to stand in the pan 24 hours before skimming, if possible, as
it will be firmer and richer, but may be skimmed, if the milk
is required for use, after 12 hours; however, leave it as long
as you can afford to. Skim it into a sweet, clean, scalded,
and rinsed crock, not into any tin vessel. Do not cover the
crock unless with an inverted sieve. It must have air. Keep
the crock in a cold place. In summer, churn, if possible,
every second day; every third day at the longest. While
you are preparing your churning apparatus, take the cream
from the ice (unless the weather is intensely warm) and set
it where it will attain a temperature of about 650. If you
have no thermometer for the purpose, you can soon learn to
know by the feeling, if you put your finger into the cream.
It should feel neither cold nor yet even mildly warm. Have
the churn, like every thing else about the butter, the very
essence of cleanliness. Scald it first thoroughly, as also the
butter-paddle and bowl. This swells the wood and prevents
the grease from getting into the pores. Then throw the boil-
369


GOOD-LIVING.
ing water out and rinse with cold water until it feels perfectly
cold to the touch. Empty out the cold water; turn in the
cream; close the cover (if a revolving churn) and turn the
crank moderately-quickly. The warmer the weather, the
slower should be the churning. If churned too rapidly, the
butter will be oily ; if too slowly, it will take a very long
time to come. With the cream at 650 or 68°, the churn well
cooled, and proper rate of turning, the butter should sepa-
rate from the milk, or " crack," in 20 minutes. Then churn
very slowly for a few minutes more, until it gathers in little
balls as large as a good-sized marble; then swing the dasher
back and forth until the butter gathers in one or two large
lumps. Do not work at it too much or it will get soft and
the texture be spoiled. Draw out the bung and let off the
buttermilk into a pail. Put back the bung and fill the churn
up to the crank with iced or very cold spring water. Turn very
slowly until the milk is quite thoroughly washed out of the
butter. Remove the bung and draw off this water. Remove
the crank and dasher. Then lift out the butter, which you
place in the wooden bowl, which has been prepared as di-
rected. If the butter appears to retain any milk, work it
once in a little very cold water; sprinkle with dairy salt,
about 1 saltspoonful to 1 lb.; work this in a little and set
the whole thing in the ice for 2 or 3 hours. Then it may be
worked once more with a little more salt to taste, made into
pats, and set away in the ice-box for use.
Too much working will make the butter oily and destroy
its texture, as well as its flavor. Unless it is to be packed to
keep, there is no object in much working or washing. Wash-
ing once or twice after it is churned is all that is required.
Some butter-makers use as many as 4 changes of water, and
in many cases wash out flavor as well as buttermilk.
N. B.—If the butter is inclined to oil, and not crack, from
the high temperature of the weather or from too rapid churn-
ing, put in a lump of ice and a pinch of salt. It is a good
plan, in hot weather, when the " pin-heads " begin to appear,
to throw in about J a pint of very cold water.


COTTAGE CHEESE OR SCHMIER-KASE. %f\
If, on the other hand, the weather is cold and the butter
will not gather, but remains in "pin-heads," you will be
obliged to throw in a little boiling water and churn more
rapidly. But the necessity for this should be avoided by
raising the cream to the proper temperature before begin-
ning. This can be accomplished in cold weather by stand-
ing the crock in a large pan, pouring boiling water around it,
and letting it stand until ready. The use of hot water later
in the churn to gather the butter, tends to render it white and
tasteless.
The above directions are for the crank or " Rose" churn,
which is recommended, instead of the old-fashioned churn, as
being far less fatiguing.
BONNY CLABBER.
Fill a glass dish with whole or skimmed milk that is 24
hours old. Set it in a rather warm place, that is, not on the
ice (from 750 to 80°), and let it stand until the milk becomes
perfectly firm. Then set in the ice-box until very cold, and
serve before it gets to the point of "cracking," that is, the
point where the curd and whey separate. The time for
this cannot be specified definitely, as it depends upon the
weather and atmosphere, a warm day or a thunder-storm
serving to lobber the milk more rapidly. Serve very cold
with cream, sugar, and grated nutmeg to taste.
COTTAGE CHEESE OR SCHMIER-KASE.
The milk for this purpose may be skimmed or whole. Let
it stand off the ice in a bowl or pan until it forms by itself a
firm curd. This will take frot.\ 24 to 48 hours (or even more)
according to the weather. If this latter is cool, the milk may
be placed in a warm corner of the kitchen ; but on no account
set it on the range, as is so often done, to the great detriment
of the cheese. When it has formed a firm curd, and begins
to " crack," as above described, pour it into a coarse muslin
or cheese-cloth bag. Tie the top together with a strong


GOOD-LIVING.
twine and suspend the bag (if in the country) from the limb
of a tree, in the shade. Place a pan underneath to catch
the whey; let it hang until the whey ceases to drip—no
longer. Take a portion of the cheese; rub it up with a gen-
erous lump of fresh butter, a little salt, and sufficient thick,
sweet cream to make it soft. Serve very cold, with a pitcher
of cream, and salt or sugar, according to taste. There are
perforated tin-moulds made for draining this cheese, which
are also very good. The curds should be left in the mould
until all the whey is drained off, and may then be turned out
in shape. Mix with cream only as much of the cheese as
will be used at one time, leaving the remainder on the ice;
otherwise the cream might become sour and spoil the sweet-
ness of the cheese.
N. B.—Observe particularly that the milk must not be
scalded to form the curd, or the cheese will be first leathery,
then dry and grainy; in short, not a success.



BREAD, BISCUITS, AND BREAKFAST-CAKES.
YEA sr.
4 large potatoes,
I gill of sugar,
I cup of good yeast,
I quart of boiling water,
2 tablespoons of salt.
Peel the potatoes; let them lie in cold water 30 minutes.
Have ready the boiling water in a saucepan. Grate the
potatoes quickly; stir them in the boiling water over the
fire for 5 minutes. Remove, and add the sugar and salt.
Turn into a bowl and set aside until lukewarm; then add
the yeast; cover and ferment 3 or 4 hours. Every time it
rises to the top of the bowl, stir it down. Bottle it; cork
tightly and set in a cool, but not freezing place. It will keep
for 2 weeks. Save 1 cupful to start with next time.
One cupful of yeast is equal to 1 cake of compressed yeast.
Always grease the tins for bread and cake with lard; but-
ter blackens the outside of the loaf.
NOTE NO. I.
NOTE NO. II.
BREAD.
I cake of Fleischman's yeast,
I tablespoonful of sugar,
I " "salt,
Sifted flour to make a soft dough,
2 quarts of warm water (or half scalded
milk),
Butter or lard, the size of an egg.
Dissolve the yeast-cake thoroughly in a little of the luke-
warm water; mix into this all the ingredients overnight.
373


374
GOOD-LIVING.
Set in a sheltered corner; cover with a cloth. Next morn-
ing knead well once for 15 minutes, adding only enough
flour to keep from sticking to your fingers. Mould into
loaves and put into greased pans. The pans should not be
more than £-full. Set again in a sheltered corner and
cover. In 1 or 2 hours, when it is raised to at least twice
its bulk, bake for about 45 minutes (for medium-sized loaves),
turning the loaves, when firmly set, so that all sides may
brown alike. Avoid letting any draught blow on the dough
while raising, shutting any window that may be near. It
must be kept in a moderately-warm, even temperature. The
- oven must be not too quick, and very steady. The above
receipt, if followed literally, will be found excellent.
N. B.—If milk is used with the warm water, watch that
it does not become sour in warm weather. It is a good plan,
in this case, to mix about \ of a teaspoonful of soda with
a few drops of boiling water, and, when lukewarm, to work
it into the dough while kneading. For raising, the temper-
ature should be from 900 to 95°.
BRAN BREAD.
To the receipt for Bread, add, when kneading, I gill of
strained molasses and 2 handfuls of clean bran. Omit the
sugar, and raise very light. Finish as above.
RYE BREAD.
Make the wheat-sponge as directed in receipt for Bread.
Set it overnight. The next morning, work in just enough
rye-meal to prevent the dough from sticking to the hands.
Knead it well, and finish according to the same receipt.
Rye bread is never as light as wheat, but is wholesome as a
variety. This is the kind of bread that should be cut very
thin, buttered, and put together in tartines, to be served
with whitebait or with raw oysters. This last is a European
custom which we may adopt with advantage.


BREAD ROLLS.
375
GRAHAM BREAD.
Mix a wheat-sponge as directed in receipt for Bread. Set
it overnight. Next morning, work in 4 tablespoonfuls of
molasses and sufficient Graham flour to make a dough a
little softer than wheat bread. As Graham bread sours very
easily, it is best to set the sponge without milk; watch it
carefully when formed into loaves and set to rise, and just
as soon as it is light, put it into the oven. Finish as directed.
Melt the yeast thoroughly in the warm water; add salt.
Work in the flour by degrees. Set in a warm, sheltered
corner. Cover. When raised to at least twice its bulk,
knead the dough very thoroughly for 10 to 15 minutes.
Mould the loaves not larger than \ the size of the pans.
Put into greased pans and raise as before. Bake in a steady,
moderately-hot oven. When the loaves are firm, say in
about 20 minutes, turn and brown them evenly on all sides.
They will be done in about 45 minutes, according to the
oven.
Having made wheat Bread according to receipt, take a
piece of dough the size of an ordinary loaf; knead it about
twice as long as directed for the bread; form it into even,
small balls and place in greased gem-pans. Cover and set in
a warm corner until risen very light, a little more than twice
their original bulk, then bake in a moderately-quick oven for
about 20 to 25 minutes. Watch and turn them that they
may brown evenly.
Or, having rolled the dough as directed above, place the
balls side by side in a pie-tin; raise very light, as directed;
bake, and serve without breaking apart. They should be
eaten hot; and broken, not cut with a knife. This makes a
very pretty loaf.
GLUTEN BREAD.
1 cake of Fleischman's yeast,
Yi tablespoon of salt,
I quart of lukewarm water,
Gluten-flour, for stiff dough, about 2 pounds.
BREAD ROLLS.


37<5
COOb-LIVWG.
BREAD PUFFS.
Take the value of I loaf of risen bread-dough. When
very light, have ready boiling some deep lard in a kettle.
Pull out some of the dough quite thin; cut it in 2-inch
lengths. Throw them immediately into the boiling lard
and cook until puffed and golden-brown, like doughnuts.
Remove with a skimmer; drain, and serve hot. They may
be covered with powdered cinnamon and sugar as they are
removed from the fire, and should be eaten immediately
with butter. Very simple and good.
ITALIAN BREAD.
I pound of bread-dough, 4 ounces of softened butter,
Corn-meal.
Work the butter into the dough, when it has risen ready
for the oven. Roll it out \ an inch thick; cut it into strips
nearly 1 inch wide by 7 or 8 inches long. Sift fine corn-
meal over them; place on a sheet of greased tin, not
touching each other, and when light (about 1 hour) bake in
a quick oven about 10 minutes.
SALT-RISING BREAD.
I pint of scalding water, I teaspoons of salt,
I " "milk, Flour.
Add to the water enough flour to make a thick batter;
add £ teaspoonful of salt, and beat until smooth and full of
air-bubbles. Cover closely. Stand the pitcher in a pan of
warm water, and set in a warm place from 5 to 8 hours. It
requires to be kept much warmer than bread which is made
with yeast, in a temperature of about 112 degrees, and may be
stirred once or twice while rising. In the morning, scald the
milk, and set aside to cool. When lukewarm, add 1 tea-
spoon of salt and enough flour to make a batter thick enough
to drop, not pour, from the spoon. Now turn into this the
salt-rising, which should be very light, and have an unpleasant
odor. Beat vigorously and continuously for 3 minutes. Cover


GRAHAM FINGERS AND THUMBS.
379
CREA M SHOR T-CA KES.
1 quart of sifted flour, I teaspoon of salt,
2 gills of thick sour cream, I level teaspoon of baking-soda.
Add the salt to the flour. Dis. :)lve the soda in 2 table-
spoonfuls of boiling water; add it to the sour cream; then
add the cream instantly to the flour. If it stands at all be-
fore mixing, the cakes will be heavy. Mix quickly, and
form into cakes the size of a saucer and £ an inch thick.
Place on a hot griddle greased with a piece of fat salt-pork.
Brown on one side; turn and brown the other. The dough
should be as soft as you can handle. If the flour absorbs
the cream too much, add a little more.
MARYLAND BISCUIT.
I quart of sifted flour, 2 gills of water,
I large tablespoon of lard, I teaspoon of salt,
2 gills of milk.
Mix together salt and flour. Rub the lard into the flour
evenly with the hands. Have the milk and water in a
pitcher, and add it gradually to the flour, stirring and
kneading all the time. Add only enough to moisten the
flour, as the dough should be very stiff. Knead 5 min-
utes. Beat with an axe (the receipt says, but a rolling-pin
might do where an axe is not available) for 30 minutes.
Then form, with the hands, into small round biscuit, about
\ an inch thick. Prick in 3 places with a fork, and set
them in a moderately-quick oven for 20 to 25 minutes. The
outside should be light-brown, the inside white, flaky, and
delicious.
GRAHAM FINGERS AND THUMBS.
I pound of Graham flour, 2 ounces each of butter and lard,
3 gills of sweet milk, I teaspoon of salt,
I teaspoon of baking-soda, 3 teaspoons of cream of tartar.
Mix together salt, cream of tartar, and flour, and sift through
the finest kind of a sieve. When well mixed, rub in the
lard and butter with the hands until very fine ; add the milk


38o
GOOD-LIVING.
and mix lightly ; lay the dough on a floured board, handling
as little as possible. Roll it out \ an inch thick. Cut \
of this into'strips 4 inches long and 1 inch wide. Roll
the strips in corn-meal until round and well coated. Lay
them in well-greased biscuit-pans, not touching each other.
Bake in a quick oven 10 or 15 minutes. Cut the remaining
\ of the dough in circles; double these over; draw out a
little, and bake like the strips. Dish together and serve hot.
GRAHAM WAFERS.
yi pound of Graham flour, 2 gills of sweet cream,
, Y teaspoon of salt.
Mix. Roll as thin as possible on a floured board. Cut
in small squares and lay on tins. Prick with a fork and
bake in a quick oven. Do not grease the sheets of tin.
OA T-CAKE.
yi, pound of oatmeal, fine, 2 gills of water,
yi teaspoon of salt.
Mix. Roll as thin as possible on a floured board. It
should make a stiff dough. Cut in squares, and lay on un-
greased tins. Prick well with a fork, and bake in a quick
oven.
BUTTERMILK MUFFINS.
I quart of buttermilk, Flour, to make a rather stiff batter,
1 teaspoon of soda, dissolved in a few 2 eggs,
drops of hot water, I teaspoon of salt.
Mix the milk into the flour; add eggs, etc. Bake in small
gem-pans, or in rings on a greased griddle. In a quick oven
they will require about 15 minutes. The soda should be
added last, and well beaten in. Excellent.
PLAIN MUFFINS.
2 eggs, 1 pint of flour,
I cup of new milk or cream, I teaspoon of baking-powder, or teaspoon
Pinch of salt, of soda and 1 of cream of tartar, level,
Butter size of an egg.
Sift the baking-powder and salt with the flour; beat the
eggs, whites and yolks apart; add to the yolks first the


BREAD MUFFINS.
381
milk, then the butter, melted; then add these to the flour;
lastly, add the whites. Beat well, after it is all mixed, and
bake immediately in a hot oven, in greased rings or gem-
pans; or bake in rings on a hot, greased griddle. The batter
must be just thin enough to pour.
CREAM MUFFINS.
2 gills of flour, 2 gills of sweet cream,
Y$ teaspoon of salt, 3 eggs.
Beat rhe whites to a stiff froth. Beat together yolks and
salt, and add them gradually to the cream. Stir these into
the flour, and add, lastly, the whites, mixing very gently but
thoroughly. Bake in greased gem-pans in a quick oven for
10 to 15 minutes; or bake in greased rings on a hot, greased
griddle.
KALAMAZOO MUFFINS.
I pint of thick sour cream or milk, 1 pint and 2 gills of flour,
1 even teaspoons of soda, I saltspoon of salt,
3 ounces of butter, melted, 2 eggs.
Put all the ingredients into a bowl, and beat them thor-
oughly together, adding lastly the soda, dissolved in 2
teaspoonfuls of boiling water. Bake in greased gem-pans
in a quick oven for 10 or 15 minutes; or bake in greased
muffin-rings on a hot, greased griddle.
BREAD MUFFINS.
I pint of stale bread-crumbs, 1 teaspoon of salt,
1 pint of milk, 3 gills of sifted flour,
2 teaspoons of baking-powder, I tablespoon of butter, melted,
2 eggs.
Soak the bread-crumbs in the milk for 30 minutes. Beat
the eggs, yolks and whites apart. Add to the bread, first
the yolks, then butter and salt. Mix well. Add the flour;
beat. Lastly, stir in carefully the whites of eggs, beaten to
a stiff froth, and the baking-powder. Mix thoroughly.
Bake in greased gem-pans in a quick oven about 20 min-
utes; or bake in greased rings on a hot, greased griddle.


382 GOOD-LIVING.
NOTE.—To grease the griddle for muff1ns and griddle-
cakes, use a piece of salt pork, on the end of a fork. Keep
it for the purpose.
A VERY USEFUL BA TTER FOR MUFFINS, ETC'
2 e6gs, 2 teaspoons of baking-powder,
2 cups of milk, or less, 2 cups of flour,
Pinch of salt, 2 tablespoons of melted lard or butter.
Beat the whites and yolks apart. Mix together milk and
yolks of eggs. Mix together baking-powder and flour; into
this stir the milk and eggs with the salt; then add the
melted lard or butter, stirring until perfectly smooth. Add
lastly the whites, beaten to a stiff froth. For muffins, bake
in greased muffin-rings on a hot, greased griddle. For oven-
muffins, bake in gem-pans, or in greased rings, for 15 to 20
minutes in a quick oven. Or, bake in 1 round tin, like Sally
Lunn, for 25 to 35 minutes. Or, add a little sugar to sweet-
en; bake in 1 round tin, as above, and serve hot, with a hot
Wine Sauce as a plain dessert. Or, for Yorkshire pudding,
add a little more milk to the batter, and bake in a roasting-
pan, which has been greased with the drippings of the beef.
Bake from 25 to 40 minutes, according to the heat of the
oven and thickness of the pudding. This batter is recom-
mended.
CRUMPETS.
I pint of milk, 1 teaspoon of salt,
3 cups of flour, or about, 4 ounces of butter,
I cup of yeast or yi compressed yeast-cake, dissolved in I gill of warm water.
Scald the milk ; when lukewarm, add it to the salt and
flour; beat hard; then add the butter, melted, and the
yeast. Beat again. Cover and set in a warm place, until
very light, about 2 hours. Grease very large muffin-rings
and place on a greased, hot griddle. Fill each ring not more
than i|~full of the batter. Bake brown on one side, then
turn and bake the other side. Remove from the fire, spread
with butter, and serve hot. Or set aside until wanted; then


RICE WAFFLES.
383
toast on both sides ; spread with butter and serve hot.
Crumpets should always be served on a hot-water plate, with
a bell-cover over them.
PLAIN WAFFLES.
2 eggs,
1/4 cups of new milk or cream,
I teaspoon of Royal baking-powder,
I pint of flour,
Butter, size of a walnut,
Salt.
Mix the baking-powder and salt with the flour. Beat the
whites and yolks apart. Melt the butter and add it to the
milk; next add the beaten yolks and milk to the flour;
lastly, the beaten whites. Bake immediately. The waffle-
iron should be very hot, and well greased in every part.
Have the batter in a pitcher and pour it in carefully. As
soon as the edges are set, turn the waffle-iron and bake the
second side. There is quite an art in making very good
waffles, as much depends upon their being baked evenly.
Select a square waffle-iron with 4 compartments, and do not
be tempted by too elaborate a design. When your waffles
are baked, pile them in a double row on a hot plate, butter-
ing each one generously. Serve very hot, with cinnamon
and sugar mixed.
WAFFLES WITHOUT YEAST OR SODA.
2 ounces of butter,
1" and 1/2 gills of four,
3 eggs,
/2 teaspoon of salt.
Melt the butter in the milk, and when sufficiently cooled,
mix it into the flour and salt. Beat whites and yolks apart.
Stir the yolks into the batter, and lastly add the whites
beaten to a stiff froth. Bake on a hot waffle-iron as directed
for Plain Waffles (see receipt).
RICE WAFFLES.
Follow exactly the receipt for Plain Waffles, using i cup
of cold boiled rice and omitting a cup of flour; add the
rice before the eggs, and finish as directed.


384
GOOD-LIVING.
HOE-CAKE.
I pint of corn-meal, teaspoon of salt,
Water.
Mix the corn-meal with the salt in a bowl. Add enough
boiling water to just moisten the meal, and let it stand 10
minutes. Then add more boiling water until the batter will
drop from the spoon. Bake in cakes on a hot griddle
greased with a piece of fat salt-pork. When done, put
a piece of butter on the top of each cake and serve.
The old Southern colored cooks were famous for these
cakes, which they baked before a wood-fire on their hoes.,
JOHNNY-CAKE.
I pint of buttermilk, 3 eggs,
I " "Indian-meal, I teaspoon of soda or saleratus,
I tablespoon of butter, melted, I ""salt.
Beat the eggs together until very light; add them to the
buttermilk; then add these to the Indian-meal with the
melted butter and salt; beat. Dissolve the soda or saleratus
in 2 tablespoonfuls of boiling water; add this to the batter;
mix thoroughly and pour into a shallow, greased baking-pan.
Bake in a moderately-quick oven for 30 minutes.
CORN-CAKE.
I pint of sweet milk, scalded, 3 eggs, beaten, whites and yolks apart,
Butter size of an egg, 2 gills of corn-meal,
Pinch of salt.
Sprinkle the corn-meal into the milk; remove from the
fire; add the butter and salt while the milk is hot. Beat the
yolks and mix into the meal; add, lastly, whites beaten to
a stiff froth. Have ready, heated very hot, gem-pans or I
large pan. Butter these thoroughly. Bake 20 minutes or
more, according to the size of the pans, in a quick oven.


CORN-DROPS. 385
CORN-BREAD.
3 tablespoons of melted lard, Corn-meal for stiff batter,
I tablespoon of sugar, 2 eggs,
I " "flour, 1 pint of sour milk,
I teaspoon of baking-soda.
Mix together milk, beaten eggs, and sugar; stir these into
the flour and corn-meal; then add melted lard. Dissolve the
soda in a few drops of boiling water; add it and beat hard
for several minutes. Have ready heated, greased dripping-
pans; pour in the batter, and bake in a moderately-quick
oven for 20 to 30 minutes.
VIRGINIA CORN-CAKES.
I quart and l^ gills of sweet milk, I teaspoon of salt,
I " of corn-meal, 4 eggs.
I gill of melted butter.
Put the meal in a 3-quart bowl with the salt. Pour over it
about £ the milk. Mix well. Add the butter and eggs
well beaten together; then the rest of the milk. Beat again.
Bake on a hot griddle greased with a piece of fat salt-pork.
ALABAMA CORN-CRUST.
I pint of corn-meal, 1 teaspoon of sugar,
l}4 teaspoons of salt, I pint of boiling water,
1 egg.
Stir the boiling water into the meal, sugar, and salt; mix
well. Stir in the beaten egg, and spread thin in small biscuit-
pans. Smooth with a knife dipped in cold water, and score
it. Bake in a quick oven until slightly browned, about 10
minutes. Watch that it does not scorch.
CORN-DROPS.
I pint and I gill of cold milk, 2 eggs,
I teaspoon of salt, 2 gills of corn-meal,
2 ounces of butter.
Set the pint of milk over boiling water on the fire; when
boiling, stir in the meal mixed with the gill of cold milk, salt,
85


386
GOOD-LIVING.
and melted butter. Stir and cook until the batter is like
mush; remove from the fire; beat whites and yolks of eggs
apart. Add the yolks to the batter and beat; then add the
whites. Beat all together very light, then drop it in separate
spoonfuls on a greased tin and bake in a quick oven until
brown, about 15 to 20 minutes. Be careful that the cakes
do not scorch.
DELICATE CORN-ROLLS.
1 quart of milk, I pint of wheat flour,
2 gills of corn-meal, I ounce of butter,
1 teaspoon of salt, 2 eggs,
I teaspoon of baking-soda, and 2 of cream of tartar, or 2 heaping teaspoons of
Royal baking-powder.
Scald I pint of the milk on the fire over boiling water;
add to it the butter, salt, and the meal, mixed smooth with
a little of the cold milk. Stir and let it cook until like thick
mush. Stir in the cold milk mixed with the beaten yolks of
the eggs; then the flour sifted with the cream of tartar; then
add the soda, dissolved in 2 tablespoonfuls of the hot milk.
Add, lastly, the whites beaten to a stiff froth. Bake in gem-
pans in a quick oven 15 to 20 minutes.
PLAIN CORN-DROPS.
3 gills of boiling water, I pint of corn-meal,
2 ounces of butter, ^ teaspoon of salt,
3 tablespoons of milk, 2 eggs.
Pour the boiling water on the corn-meal, butter, and salt.
Add the milk and eggs, these last beaten together until light.
Mix well and drop by the spoonful on greased tins, and bake
in a quick oven 15 to 20 minutes. Watch that they do not
scorch.
PUFFS.
1 egg beaten very light, I gill of flour,
2 gills of milk, Pinch of salt.
Mix milk and egg; stir these into the flour and salt.
Have your gem-pans very hot. Grease. Pour in the batter
and bake 30 minutes, or until the top is a firm crust. These
may also be served for dessert with a sweet sauce.


POP-OVERS.
387
LAPLANDERS.
I full pint of flour, Pinch of salt,
I pint of milk, 2 eggs,
I tablespoon of butter.
Heat the milk to nearly, but not quite, boiling. Stir in
butter and salt. Beat the yolks of eggs and stir them into
the milk; then add the milk to the flour, and lastly the
whites beaten stiff. Have the pans hissing hot; pour in the
batter, and bake until brown, in a quick oven. This will
take from 20 to 30 minutes. These may also be eaten with
a sweet sauce for dessert.
BREAKFAST PUFFS.
2 gills of water, 5 level tablespoonfuls of sifted flour,
2 " "milk, Pinch of salt.
2 eggs, whites and yolks beaten apart.
Stir the water, milk, salt, and yolks into the flour. Beat
smooth. Add lastly the beaten whites. Mix smooth and
bake in 1 large puff or in small pans 15 to 30 minutes,
according to size. The pans should be very hot and well
greased.
POP-OVERS, NO. I.
I pint of milk, 1 egg,
1 " "flour, Pinch of salt.
Beat the egg and mix it with the milk; stir all into the
flour. Heat gem-tins very hot; grease with lard; fill ij-full
and bake 15 or 20 minutes in a quick oven. Recommended.
POP-OVERS, NO. II.
2 cups of milk, 2 eggs,
2 " ** flour, I even teaspoon of salt,
Beat whites and yolks apart. Stir the milk and eggs
together into the flour. Beat smooth. Add salt. Lastly
add the whites beaten to a stiff froth. Heat gem-pans very
hot. Grease; fill ^-full. Bake in a quick oven 20 min-
utes or more, until a firm crust is formed. Or, bake in tea-
cups, and serve with Wine or Lemon Sauce (see receipt).


388
GOOD-LIVING.
GRAHAM GEMS.
Use same batter as for Pop-overs, substituting J Graham
flour.
BUCKWHEA T CAKES.
1 quart of cold water, I teaspoon of salt,
35^ cups of buckwheat, I gill, or ]/2 cake, of yeast,
2 tablespoons of molasses, % teaspoon of soda.
Select buckwheat of the best quality. Put the cold water
into a stone jar with a narrow neck (there are jars made
expressly for the purpose); add salt and buckwheat, and rub N
perfectly smooth. Add the yeaA, or the £-cake of com-
pressed yeast, dissolved in I gill of tepid water. Mix well.
Put on the cover of the jar; set it in a moderately-warm
place overnight. Next morning, add \ a teaspoonful of
soda dissolved in boiling water; beat this thoroughly
through; mix in the molasses, and bake on a hot griddle.
Test I cake, and if it is bitter or heavy, add a little more
soda to the batter as above.^ Reserve I cupful of this
batter as the foundation of the next batch of cakes. Leave
it in the jar, cover it with a little cold water, and set it in a
cool place until evening; then pour off the clear water from
the top (if any); add the fresh buckwheat, water, and salt;
stir smooth, and set away until next day, repeating this pro-
cess as long as you care to eat buckwheat cakes. The grid-
dle should be heated gradually until very hot. Grease with
fat pork. If well made, these cakes should be like a net-
work of air-holes, as light as possible.
BUTTERMILK GRIDDLE CAKES.
I quart of buttermilk, I teaspoon of baking-soda,
I teaspoon of salt, I egg,
Flour for thin batter.
Beat the egg together; add to it the buttermilk and salt.
Mix well. Dissolve the soda in 2 tablespoonfuls of boiling
water; stir it into the buttermilk, then add this instantly to
the flour, stirring all the time. Any delay will make the


RICE GRIDDLE CAKES.
389
cakes heavy. The batter should be thin enough to pour
smoothly from the spoon. Beat well and bake quickly on a
lot griddle, greased with a piece of fat salt-pork. (Or, the
oda may be dissolved as above, and added to the batter
last, after which beat the batter for 1 or 2 minutes.)
CORN-MEAL GRIDDLE CAKES.
i quart of sour or buttermilk, 2 eggs, beaten light,
1 teaspoon of salt,
2 tablespoons of molasses,
1 " " baking-soda,
1 tablespoon of lard, melted,
I gill of flour,
Corn-meal for thin batter.
Mix together eggs, milk, and molasses, and add these to
the flour; mix in enough corn-meal to make a batter of the
thickness of rich cream. Add the melted lard ; then the
soda dissolved in a few drops of boiling water. Beat very
hard. Have the griddle very hot, and grease with a piece ·
of fat salt-pork. Test a little of the batter ; 'it should run
casily, and the cakes should be so thin that you can only
just turn them with the cake-turner. If too thick, add a
little more buttermilk and a pinch of soda as before; if too
thin, add a little more corn-meal. Delicious. Recommended.
OATMEAL GRIDDLE CAKES.
I pint of cold boiled oatmeal,
2 cups of four,
1/2 teaspoon of salt,
I cup of milk,
2 teaspoons of baking-powder,
2 eggs,
1 cup of boiling water.
in the milk into the oatmeal ; then add the salt, yolks,
niling water. Mix. Add the flour sifted with the
Liin. owder; beat again ; lastly add whites of eggs beaten
i in iff froth. Mix well and bake on a hot griddle greased
th a piece of fat salt-pork.
RICE GRIDDLE CAKES.
* pint of milk,
2 teaspoons of Royal baking-powder,
2 Cips of cold boiled rice,
2 cups of flour,
, 'easpoon of salt,
3 eggs,
1 tablespoon of melted butter.
Put the rice through a sieve; add to it the eggs well
ber 2 together; the melted butter; milk; then the flour


390
GOOD-LIVING.
sifted with the powder. Mix well and bake immediately o
a hot griddle, greased with a piece of fat salt-pork. Or, thej.
may be made with yeast instead of baking-powder, addin
I gill of yeast or £ a yeast-cake dissolved in I gill of luk
warm water, standing the batter in a warm place at least
hours before baking.
HOMINY GRIDDLE CAKES.
Proceed exactly as for rice griddle cakes, substituting tl
same quantity of cold boiled hominy, and not passing
through a sieve.
RAISED FLANNEL-CAKES.
I pint and I gill of milk, I teaspoon of salt,
I tablespoon of butter, 2 eggs,
I gill of yeast, or ^ compressed yeast-cake, 3 cups of flour.
Scald the milk and add the butter; set it aside to co
When lukewarm, add the yeast (or yeast-cake dissolved
\ a gill of warm water). Add salt and beat well. Co\
and set in a warm place overnight. Next morning bt
the eggs, whites and yolks apart; add first the yolks, th
the whites, to the batter; beat well. Set aside 15 minut
Then bake on a hot, greased griddle.
QUICK FLANNEL-CAKES.
1 quart of sifted flour, 1 pint and 2 gills of milk,
2 ounces of butter, 3 eggs,
1 teaspoon of salt, 2 teaspoons of baking-powder.
Rub the butter into the flour with the hands until ev;?
mixed; mix in the salt. Add the beaten yolks of ep,gs
the milk; add this to the flour; beat hard until smooth ; tl
add the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and baki
powder. Bake quickly on a hot griddle, greased with a pi.
of fat salt-pork.


FRITTER BATTER.
391
FEA THER-CAKES.
2 ounces of butter, melted, I pint of milk,
I egg, Pinch of salt,
2^ teaspoons Royal baking-powder, sifted with 1% cups of flour.
Mix the flour, salt, and powder; mix egg and milk; mix
the milk into the flour and beat until smooth. Bake on a
hot griddle.
STALE-BREAD GRIDDLE CAKES.
I quart of milk, scalding hot, 2 eggs,
I pint of stale bread-crumbs, I teaspoon of salt,
1 tablespoon of melted butter, Flour for thin batter, 3 ounces,
2 teaspoons of baking-powder, or }4 teaspoon of soda and 1 of cream of tartar.
Soak the bread in the milk for 1 hour, then beat it smooth.
Beat the eggs, whites and yolks apart, until very light. Add
to the bread, first the yolks, then the flour, butter, and salt.
Beat again ; add baking-powder and whites of eggs, and bake
quickly on a hot griddle, greased with fat salt-pork. Or, the
bread-crumbs may be stirred into the batter at the time of
baking, not soaked as above.
FRITTER BATTER.
4 ounces of flour, % level saltspoon of grated nutmeg,
I level saltspoon of salt, 2 eggs,
^" ** '* pepper, 1 tablespoon of olive oil,
1 cup of cold water, more or less.
Mix the flour with the yolks of eggs, pepper, salt, nutmeg,
and oil (the latter makes it crisp), then add the water; enough
of the latter to make the batter sufficiently stiff to hold the
drops from the spoon in shape when dropped from it. Stir
in, lastly, the 2 whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth. When
the lard is boiling, deep enough to float the fritters, dip
whatever you wish to fry into the batter, covering it on all
sides; drop into the lard and fry until golden brown. Drain
on brown paper in the mouth of the oven. This is a good,
crisp batter.


39- GOOD-LIVING.
YORKSHIRE PUDDING.
I pint of milk, 3 eggs,
% cup of flour, I saltspoon of salt.
Beat the eggs together very light. Add salt and milk.
Pour £ on the flour. Rub smooth. Add the rest of the
milk. Remove the roast-beef from the roasting-pan. Pour
off the gravy, leaving a little drippings. Pour in the batter
and bake in a quick oven 20 minutes or more, according to
size. Serve under roast-beef ; or cut in even pieces and serve
around the beef.
N. B.—The pudding may be baked in another pan while
the beef is roasting. Grease the pan with some of the drip-
pings of the beef, and bake as directed.
DUMPLINGS.
I pint of sifted flour, % teaspoon of salt,
Milk to make soft dough, I heaping teaspoon of baking-powder.
Sift together the powder and flour; add salt and milk.
Do not handle too much. Have ready the pot of boiling
gravy or salted water; drop the dough by even bits into the
pot; cover; boil 10 minutes, steadily, but not too hard.
Note.-—If cooked in gravy, be careful that it does not
scorch.
SUET DUMPLINGS.
T.
X pound of suet, chopped fine, % teaspoon of salt,
Twice the bulk of suet in flour, % cup of ice-water.
Chop the suet fine; measure it with a cup, and allow twice
the bulk in flour; add salt; mix; moisten, with the ice-
water, enough for a stiff batter. Roll into balls the size of
a hickory-nut; drop into boiling soup or gravy. Cover, and
cook 15 minutes. If in gravy, be careful that it does not
scorch.


CREAM TEA-CAJC£S.
393
BUTTERMILK DUMPLINGS.
2j£ cups of buttermilk, I teaspoon of baking-soda,
Flour for stiff batter, 2 eggs.
Beat the eggs together; mix them with the milk. Dissolve
the soda in a few drops of boiling water; mix it with the
milk; pour the milk instantly into the flour, blending to a
smooth, soft dough. If sweet milk is used, allow I teaspoon
of Royal baking-powder to each cup of flour instead of the
soda. Sift the powder with the flour. Drop the dough by
the teaspoonful into boiling water; cover, and boil steadily,
but not too rapidly, for 10 minutes.
VELVET-CAKES FOR TEA.
I quart of sifted flour, I pint of sweet milk,
I gill of sugar, ounces of butter,
3 even tablespoons of baking-powder, I egg.
Beat the egg, butter, and sugar together, until very light;
sprinkle into them the flour sifted with the baking-powder.
Mix flour, sugar, etc. Stir in enough of the milk for a stiff
batter, and beat thoroughly. Add the rest of the milk.
Beat again. Pour into well-greased gem-pans, and bake in a
quick oven, 15 to 20 minutes.
CREAM TEA-CAKES.
I pint of sour cream, I quart of sifted flour,
1 egg, beaten, Pinch of salt,
Small lump of butter, size of a hickory-nut, Y teaspoon of soda.
Mix. The dough should stand 15 minutes, then be rolled
out \ of an inch thick, cut in rounds, and baked on a hot
griddle. Spread with butter, and serve hot.



CAKES.
WEDDING CAKE.
I pound of butter,
1 " "flour,
2 pounds of currants, cleaned,
I cup of N. O. molasses,
Ground spices to taste,
I pound of brown sugar,
4 pounds of raisins, stoned.
I pound of citron,
I pint of best brandy,
18 eggs, yolks only.
Rub the sugar and butter to a cream. Strain in the molas-
ses. Clean the Currants as directed (see receipt). Stone the
raisins (see receipt). Slice the citron. Add the yolks of
eggs; then the brandy, \ the flour, and spices to taste.
Shake the fruit in the remaining flour until well coated ; then
add all the fruit and flour to the cake. Mix thoroughly.
Bake in 3-quart tins, lined with thick paper very well
greased. It must be baked in a very slow oven, and will
require about 4 hours. If the oven gets at all hot, cool it by
opening the cover over the top. Cover the top with thick
paper. When cold, ice the top of the cake (see receipt for
Sift the baking-powder and flour together. Cream the
butter and sugar; add the yolks, water, and flour. Add,
lastly, the whites beaten to a stiff froth. Have ready 2 pans
well greased with lard and lined with thin paper also greased.
Pour in the mixture. It should fill each pan about J-full.
Icing.)
TROY LOAF-CAKE.
I quart of sifted flour,
I pint of "A" or "C" sugar,
3 teaspoons of baking-powder,
8 ounces of butter,
2 gills of cold water,
3 eggs,
small nutmeg, grated.
394


ANGEL CAKE.
Set in a quick, but not scorching, oven. Shut the door very
gently, and be careful not to jar the cake, or it will be heavy.
Do not open the door for about 10 minutes, and then as
little as possible, and very gently. If the cake is baking
quicker one side than the other, turn it around very care-
fully, but not until the cake has begun to set. If the top
browns too quickly, cover with a layer of thick paper. If it
cracks ever so little, lessen the heat of the oven by opening
the range-cover above it on a crack about \ of an inch wide.
A cracked loaf-cake is never a light cake. Great care must
be taken in the baking, for as much of the success depends
upon that as upon the ingredients and the manner of com-
bining them. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes. Test through the
middle with a broom-whisp. If it comes out perfectly dry,
the cake is done. Turn it out on an inverted sieve to cool.
Ice it, or simply sift powdered sugar over it.
ARCHANGEL CAKE.
Whites of 8 eggs, 1 cup of butter,
2 cups of sifted flour, 1 " ""A" sugar,
I teaspoon of Royal baking-powder.
Cream butter and sugar together; add flour, and flavor
with lemon, or bitter almond and rose-water. Add lastly the
whites beaten to a stiff froth. Bake in layers 6 to 10 minutes,
and fill with Almond Paste Filling (see receipt), or bake in a
turk's-head tin. For directions for baking loaf-cake, see
Troy Loaf-Cake. Bake for about 30 minutes in a moderately-
quick oven. Superior to Angels' Food.
ANGEL CAKE.
3 gills of granulated sugar, sifted twice, 11 whites of eggs, beaten to a stiff
I cup of flour, sifted 4 times, froth, with a pinch of salt,
I heaping teaspoon of best cream of tartar, 1 teaspoon of vanilla.
Add the sugar to the beaten whites , beat lightly until
well mixed. Sift the cream of tartar with the flour a fifth time.
Add the flour to the eggs, and beat again. Last of all, add


39^
GOOD-LIVING.
vanilla. Line a turk's-head tin with paper, using no grease.
Fill the pan not more than f-full; or use 2 small tins. Bake
in a moderate oven 40 minutes. Test with a broom-whisp.
When done, turn the cake upside down, and, when cold, ice
the bottom with Egg-Icing (see receipt).
N. B.—Do not use any other pan than that which has a
tube in the centre (turk's-head).
POUND-CAKE.
7 ounces of sifted flour, 8 ounces of sugar,
6 "" butter, Y teaspoon of ground mace,
Yx lemon, juice and grated rind, 4 eggs.
Beat the butter to a cream, and stir the flour into it. Beat
together the yolks and sugar until very light, then mix them
with the butter and flour. Add lemon and mace, and lastly
the whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Have ready loaf-
tins lined with well-greased paper. Bake about 30 minutes
in a moderately-quick oven. Test with a broom-whisp. For
detailed directions for baking, see Troy Loaf-Cake.
AURORA LOAF-CAKE.
II ounces of butter,
2 pints and 2 gills of flour,
I gill of wine and brandy mixed,
1/4 pounds of stoned raisins,
1 pint and 2 gills of sugar,
2 gills of milk,
5 eggs,
3 teaspoons of baking-powder.
Sift the flour and powder together. Cream the butter and
sugar; add the yolks and beat until very light; stir in the
milk. Beat the whites to a dry froth, and add them and the
flour alternately; then add the wine, and lastly the raisins,
well floured and shaken until each raisin becomes coated on
all sides. Stir only just enough to mix. Have ready deep
pans lined with paper greased with lard, and bake in a quick,
but not scorching, oven for fully 45 minutes. Cover the
cake with a layer of thick paper. For detailed directions
for baking, see Troy Loaf-Cake.


SPONG&-CARE.
397
SPONGE-CAKE NO. I.
I pound of sifted powdered sugar, II eggs,
3 teaspoons of Cleveland or 2 of Royal Juice of 1 lemon,
baking-powder, Grated rind of lemon,
1o ounces of sifted flour.
Cream together the yolks and sugar. Add the lemon-
juice and rind; then the flour; then the whites of eggs
beaten to a stiff froth. Add, lastly, the baking-powder, and
stir lightly but thoroughly. Line a long loaf-pan with well-
greased thin paper and fill J-full with the batter. Set in
a moderately-quick oven for 25 to 35 minutes. Test with a
broom-whisp. If it comes out perfectly dry, the cake is done.
Watch carefully that it does not brown too quickly or un-
evenly; if too quickly, cover with brown paper. Besides
this loaf-cake, this receipt will make a layer-cake of 4 layers.^
When eggs are plentiful, it is economical. The layer-cake
may be filled with lemon or other filling. Recommended.
SPONGE-CAKE NO. II.
6 eggs, % the weight of eggs in flour,
Juice and grated rind of 1 lemon, Weight of eggs in sugar.
Weigh the sugar and flour; separate the yolks and whites
of eggs. Sift the flour. Beat the whites to a very stiff
froth. Grate the lemon-peel, and strain the juice. Have
the cake-pan greased (an oblong one is best) and every thing
in readiness before putting together the ingredients. Beat
the yolks and sugar until very light and pale yellow. Now
add the juice and rind of lemon and £ of the flour. Mix
well. Now add £ the whites of eggs; mix carefully and
quickly; then the second and mix; then the remaining
whites of eggs. Stir as little as is necessary to mix in the
whites; pour into I or more pans, and bake in a quick oven
30 to 45 minutes, according to size. If the top is inclined
to brown too quickly, lay a paper over it. The art of making
good sponge-cake lies in the order of mixing the ingredients,
and upon the mixing being done very quickly.


39$
GOOD-LIVING.
LAYER SPONGE-CAKE.
I cup of sifted powdered sugar, 3 eggs,
I " " " flour, Lemon extract,
1 medium teaspoon of Royal baking-powder.
Cream together the yolks and sugar; add lemon-extract
to taste; the flour and baking-powder sifted together, and
lastly the whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Bake in
well-greased jelly-cake tins for about 10 or 12 minutes. Fill
with Lemon, Chocolate, or other Filling (see receipts).
Recommended.
FRENCH CAKE.
I cup of milk, 2 heaping teaspoons of Royal baking-
3 gills of " A " sugar, powder,
3 whites of eggs, beaten to a stiff 1 gill of butter,
froth, 3 cups of sifted flour.
Cream the butter and sugar together; add the milk; then
the flour, which is sifted with the baking-powder. Flavor
with extract of bitter almonds and rose-water, or other flavor-
ing to taste. Add lastly the whites of eggs beaten to a stiff
froth. Bake in a loaf for about 25 or 30 minutes (for direc-
tions see Troy Loaf-Cake), or in layers, 6 to 10 minutes.
For the latter, the oven should be quicker than for the loaf.
Fill with Almond or other Filling (see receipts). Ice to taste.
SAVOY CAKE.
gAteau de savo1e.
4 ounces of powdered sugar, 3 eggs,
Iyi ounces of sifted flour, 1 ounce of corn-starch,
Vanilla to taste.
Beat the yolks and sugar to a cream; add the flour, corn-
starch, and vanilla. Mix well. Beat the whites of eggs
to a stiff froth, and stir them in lightly, but thoroughly.
Butter a cake-mould, turk's-head, or other; coat the bottom
and sides with powdered sugar; fill f-full with the batter,
and bake in a moderately-quick oven for about 45 minutes.
For directions for baking, see Troy Loaf-Cake.


DRIED-APPLE OR ECONOMICAL FRUIT-CAKE. 399
MANQUET.
Yolks of 8 eggs, yi pound of " A " sugar,
Grated rind of I lemon, 1 ounce of melted butter,
Whites of 3 eggs, beaten.
Cream together the yolks and sugar, beating until very
light; add the rind of lemon Add lastly the whites of 3
eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Have ready a cake-pan well
greased; dust it on sides and bottom with flour; pour in
the batter and bake in a moderately-quick oven for 30
minutes or more. For directions for baking, see Troy
Loaf-Cake.
CAKE WITHOUT EGGS.
3 gills of " A " sugar, 2 cups of sifted flour,
1 teaspoon of baking-powder, 1 cup of milk,
2 tablespoons of butter, 1 teaspoon of vanilla,
Small pinch of salt.
Beat the butter and sugar to a cream; add flour, salt, then
milk and flavoring, and beat hard ; add baking-powder. Mix
well and bake in a tin lined with thin, greased paper, about
30 minutes or more. For directions for baking, see Troy
Loaf-cake.
DRIED-APPLE OR ECONOMICAL FRUIT-CAKE.
yi pound of butter,
^" "dried, sour apples,
1 pint and 2 gills of N. O. molasses,
2 gills of stoned raisins (yi lb.),
1 teaspoon of baking-powder,
I tablespoon of ground cinnamon,
I " " "mace,
Pinch
1 large tablespoon of lard,
yi pound of " A" or " C " sugar,
1yi pounds of sifted flour,
I tablespoon of baking-soda,
Juice of 1 lemon,
1 egg.
I teaspoon of ground cloves,
of salt.
Soak the apples in water overnight. Next morning,
drain; chop; put them in a saucepan with the molasses and
spices. When they come to a boil, set a little aside where
they will stew gently for 20 minutes. Stir occasionally to
prevent scorching. Set away to cool. Meanwhile, cream


4oo
GOOh-LIVWG.
the butter and sugar. When the molasses is cold, st1r in the
butter, sugar, egg, flour, and baking-powder. Beat hard for
3 or 4 minutes. Dissolve the soda, which should be a little
more than a level tablespoonful, in a few drops of boiling
water. Have ready the raisins, shaken in flour, until each
one is well coated all over. Now beat in the soda for a
minute or more; then stir in the raisins lightly and quickly.
The batter should be thick enough to drop, not pour from
the spoon. Have ready 2 large loaf-pans lined with well-
greased, thin paper. Fill f-full of the batter, and set in a
moderately-quick oven. The oven should at no time be
intensely hot. After 15 minutes, when the cake should be
set, turn off all excessive heat. Cover the top with a layer
of brown paper, and bake in all about 45 minutes. If the
oven is too hot, the cake will crack and be heavy. Test
with a broom-whisp; when it comes out perfectly dry, the
cake is done. This is an excellent cake which can be
recommended for large households ; it is economical.
GINGERBREAD.
1 quart of darkest Porto Rico molasses, 1 teaspoon of soda and 1 of cream of tartar,
1 pound of dark-brown sugar, or 2 of Royal baking-powder, heaping,
1 cup of milk, 6 eggs,
4 cups of sifted flour, or more, ^ pound of butter,
1 large teaspoon of ground cinnamon, 1 teaspoon of ground ginger,
Y2 teaspoon of ground cloves.
Warm the molasses slightly; strain it into a bowl with the
butter, and beat it; then add the other ingredients, sifting the
cream of tartar or baking-powder with the flour, and adding
enough flour to make quite a stiff batter. If soda is used,
dissolve it in a little of the milk; add it last, and beat for
several minutes. If the above quantities of spices are not
sufficient, add ginger and cinnamon to taste. Line deep
pans with well-greased paper; fill about f-full with the bat-
ter, and bake about 1 hour in a slow oven. If it browns too
quickly, cover it with a piece of paper. Test with a broom-
whisp. For directions, see Troy Loaf-Cake. You may add
to the above, raisins, washed, stoned, and shaken in flour.


GINGERBREAD WITHOUT BUTTER OR EGGS. 40I
GINGER CAKE.
I tablespoon of lard,
I cup of very thick sour cream,
I gill of "A" or "C" sugar,
1 teaspoon of powdered cinnamon,
About 3% cups of sifted flour,
1 teaspoon
1 teaspoon of baking-soda, dissolved in
a little warm water,
2 eggs.
3 gills of molasses, .
I teaspoon of Royal baking-powder,
of ground ginger.
Mix all well together, adding the baking-powder with the
last cup of flour. After that, beat hard for 1 minute or 2.
Have ready deep pans, lined with well-greased paper; fill
J-full with the batter, and bake in a moderate oven 20 to 30
minutes. Test with a broom-whisp.
N. B.—A quick oven will make gingerbread heavy.
MOLASSES CAKE.
2 cups of molasses, 1 teaspoon of soda, dissolved in warm
Ground ginger and cloves to taste, water,
3}4 cups of sifted flour, I cup of butter,
I teaspoon of cream of tartar. I " "milk,
4 eggs.
Mix all together, adding soda last. Beat well; pour into
pans lined with greased paper, and bake in a slow oven. Do
not fill the pans more than 1 inch deep, and bake 20 to 30
minutes. Test with a broom-whisp. Two teaspoons of
Royal baking-powder may be substituted for the cream
of tartar and soda.
GINGERBREAD WITHOUT BUTTER OR EGGS.
I gill of lard, I cup of molasses,
I cup of sour milk, 2 teaspoons of ground g1nger,
1 teaspoon of baking-soda, Flour.
Put the molasses, lard, and ginger on the fire. When
warmed, and the lard has melted, beat for 10 minutes.
Dissolve the soda in a few drops of boiling water. Mix
it and the milk with the molasses; then add enough flour to
make a stiff batter. Beat well. Have ready a greased drip-
ping-pan. Pour in the mixture, and bake 10 minutes in a
quick oven. This quantity will fill a 1ox 15-inch pan about
26


402
GOOD-LIVING.
inches deep. It does not bake well if too deep. Test
with a broom-whisp. Recommended as being excellent.
COCOA-NUT LOAF-CAKE.
pound of butter, Juice and grated rind of I lemon,
2 gills of milk, Y pound of "A " sugar,
1 heaping teaspoon of baking-powder, Yz " "flour,
2 full cups of grated cocoa-nut, 5 eggs,
% grated nutmeg, no more.
Cream the butter and sugar; add the yolks, and beat very
light; mix in the milk, then flour and lemon, and beat well.
Stir in the cocoa-nut. Beat the whites to a stiff froth. Sift
over them the baking-powder. Add these at the last mo-
ment, and mix lightly but thoroughly. Have ready 2 loaf-
pans, lined with very thin paper well greased with lard.
Divide the batter between the 2, filling not more than
f-full. Bake in a moderately-quick oven for 45 minutes
to 1 hour. If it browns too quickly, cover with thick paper.
Do not let it bake rapidly enough to crack the cake, or it
will not be light. For directions for baking, see Troy Loaf-
Cake. When it is thoroughly done, remove from the oven;
cover the top with fresh grated cocoa-nut and sifted powdered
sugar. Set on a sieve to cool. Handle very carefully. Re-
move the paper when cool. Delicious.
COCOA-NUT LA YER CAKE NO. I.
Take 2 layers of Layer Cake No. II. (see receipt) ; lay I on
a plate, with the under-side uppermost. Spread over this a
layer of Ice-Cream Filling (see receipt). Over this spread a
thick layer of grated cocoa-nut; then the second layer of cake,
with the top uppermost. Spread this also with Ice-Cream
Filling, made a little stiffer with sugar; or use Egg-Icing.
Pack the top all over with grated cocoa-hut, covering sides
and all, so that nothing shows but the white of the cocoa-nut.
Set away for 2 hours; transfer very carefully to a plate, on
which is a fancy-cut paper, and serve. Recommended.
Or, use Cocoa-nut Filling (see receipt).


PHILADELPHIA WHITE MOUNTAIN CAKE. 403
COCOA-NUT LA YER CAKE NO. II.
Proceed exactly as for Cocoa-nut Layer Cake No. I.,
spreading first a moderately-thick coating of very good
currant-jelly upon the cake, then the filling and cocoa-nut as
described. Finish as directed. Recommended. Or use
Cocoa-nut Filling (see receipt).
PHILADELPHIA WHITE MOUNTAIN CAKE.
Beat the butter and sugar to a cream; add the yolks
of eggs, and beat as light as possible. Add vanilla, lemon,
and mace. Beat the whites of eggs to a very stiff froth ; add
them gradually and alternately with the milk to the batter.
Sift the corn-starch and baking-powder together, and add
them gradually to the mixture, beating quickly all the time;
then pour into 3 large jelly-cake tins and bake in a quick
oven about 10 to 12 minutes. Test with a broom-whisp; if
it comes out dry, the cake is done. Turn the layers out on
a board ; then turn them back again to bring the upper-side
on top.
N. B.—If you use Royal baking-powder, 2 heaping tea-
spoonfuls will suffice; of Cleveland's, use the quantity
named.
Boil the sugar and water together until it forms a thread
when dropped from the spoon. The whites of eggs must be
beaten, meanwhile, as stiff as possible. Put them into a
small bowl (a 1-quart bowl will do), and, when the syrup
has reached the proper point, take it off instantly and beat
the syrup into the whites of eggs with a Dover egg-beater,
11 ounces of powdered sugar,
3 heaping teaspoons of baking-powder,
Juice and rind of 1 lemon,
X teaspoon of ground mace,
3 ounces of corn-starch,
Y pound of flour,
5 eggs,
1 gill of sherry,
2 gills of milk,
6 ounces of butter,
1 teaspoon of vanilla.
FILLING FOR SAME.
Whites of 2 eggs,
1 gill of boiling water,
Y% pound of powdered sugar,
1 teaspoon of vanilla.


404
GOOD-LIVING.
adding the former by degrees. Continue to beat steadily
until perfectly cold. This point may be attained more
quickly by standing the bowl near an open window, or by
setting it in a pan with a small piece of ice ; but beat contin-
ually. In testing this receipt, it is found that the amount of
filling given makes only enough for 2 layers of medium size.
It is therefore recommended to use the same proportions,
that is: 1 white of egg, \ a gill of water, and \ pound of
powdered sugar for each additional layer. The filling should
be very thick between the layers of cake; at least \ an
inch thick. If the sugar has been boiled to the exact degree
(wherein lies the one difficulty of making it in perfection)
the filling will be as smooth and mellow as whipped cream
and stiff enough to hold itself in shape like thick meringue.
Spread the filling between the layers of cake, and finish the
top with a little sifted, powdered sugar. Dexter, of Phila-
delphia, is famous for the above cake. The secret of the
perfection of his manufacture is not divulged, but this is a
very good imitation.
VERY LIGHT PLAIN CAKE.
I cups of " A " sugar (the " A " is essential), Lemon or vanilla extract to taste,
1 cup of butter, 3 eggs,
2 teaspoons of Royal baking-powder, 1 cup of cold water,
3 cups of sifted flour.
Mix all together, the baking-powder with the last cup of
flour. Pour into pans lined with greased paper, and bake 15
to 30 minutes, according to size. If it browns too quickly,
cover with a paper. Test with a broom-whisp. For directions
for baking, see Troy Loaf-Cake. Recommended.
DAINTY CAKES.
Bake the batter for Plain Cake in gem-pans for 10 to 12
minutes. Test with a broom-whisp. When cold, cover with
Lemon Icing made without eggs (see receipt). Delicious.


CUE AM PUFFS.
405
LA YER CAKE NO. I.
Make the batter as for Plain Cake; bake it in jelly-cake
tins. In a quick oven it will require only about 6 or 8 min-
utes. Test with a broom-whisp. When cold, spread with
jelly, marmalade, or filling to taste (see receipts). Ice the
top, or sift powdered sugar over it.
LADY CAKE.
1 pound of sugar, yi pound of butter,
^ " "flour. Whites of 10 eggs.
Mix, adding lastly the whites beaten to a stiff froth.
Flavor with extract of bitter almond and rose-water. Bake
in 1 or 2 loaves. Line the tins with thin, greased paper.
For directions for baking, see Troy Loaf-Cake. When cold,
ice the tops (see receipts).
CREAM PUFFS.
CHOUX A LA CREME.
2 gills of boiling water, '1 saltspoon of soda,
I large cup of flour, } ( pound of butter,
5 eggs.
Stir the butter into the boiling water over the fire. Then
stir in the flour until perfectly blended and cooked, and the
paste leaves the sides of the saucepan. Remove from the
fire and beat in, 1 by 1, the eggs, turning always one way.
Dissolve the soda in a few drops of boiling water, and add it
to the paste; beat well. Butter a sheet of tin and drop the
batter upon it, 1 tablespoonful for each puff. Do not let
them touch. Bake in a quick oven about 15 minutes. When
done, make an opening in the side with a sharp knife and
fill with a custard made of:
I quart of milk, boiling,
3 tablespoons of corn-starch,
5 eggs, well beaten,
Vanilla to flavor.


GOOD-LIVING.
Rub up the corn-starch in a little cold water; add it to the
boiling milk. Stir and boil for 3 minutes. Remove, and beat
it into a bowl in which the eggs have been mixed. Stir, and
sweeten to taste. Return to the fire, over boiling water; stir
for a few minutes, but do not boil, or the eggs will curdle.
Or, use the paste given for Coffee Eclairs. Bake and finish
as above.
coffee Eclairs.
Eclairs au cafe.
I ounce of butter, 2^ ounces of flour,
6 tablespoons of water, 4 eggs,
% pound of sugar, Whipped cream, ) Qr Coffee p.
I gill of strong coffee, Coffee, )
Put the butter in a saucepan on the fire with 6 tablespoons
of boiling water. When beginning to boil, add the flour
(about the quantity indicated, perhaps a pinch more). Stir
with a wooden spoon 3 minutes, or until it leaves the sides
of the saucepan and is very stiff. Remove, and add, 1 at
a time, the eggs, stirring each in very thoroughly. Have
ready, slightly greased, an eclair-pan (they can be had made
of sheet-iron, and are very good). Set in a quick oven for
about 15 minutes. Watch very carefully, as, if the oven is
too hot, they may scorch. They must not brown. When
done, make an incision in the side of each and fill with
sweetened, whipped cream flavored with coffee, or with
Coffee Filling (see receipt).
Icing: Put into a china-lined saucepan the sugar and 1 gill
of very strong, good coffee; a mixture of Mocha and Java is
best. Boil it until it makes a thread when dropped from the
spoon. Drop a little into a cup of cold water; take it be-
tween thumb and finger, and, if it makes a fine thread with-
out breaking, it is ready. Remove from the fire and stir
until it begins to thicken slightly; then coat each dclair
with it.


MACAROONS.
KISSES.
MERINGUES.
Whites of 4 eggs, 9 ounces of granulated sugar.
Beat the eggs to a stiff froth, then stir the sugar in very
gently. Have ready a board about 1 inch thick, which will
fit in your oven. Cover the board with white paper. With
a tablespoon, put upon this the mixture in any shape you
fancy; the shape of a large half-egg is the best. Set the
board in a slow oven, and bake slowly; on this depends a
great part of the success of making good kisses. They
should be at least I hour in the oven, and should become
quite hard to the touch, without being more than a pale,
light brown. If they show signs of browning too much or too
soon, cover with thick paper. When done, detach them
from the paper with a knife, and put them together in pairs.
Or, they may be baked in sections about 4 inches long, and,
when done, the flat sides may be slightly excavated, filled
with ice-cream, then joined together, and served as Meringues
Glac/es.
COCOA-NUT MACAROONS.
3 whites of eggs, Yf pound of desiccated cocoa-nut, or
1 teaspoon of extract of bitter almonds, 'allow same bulk of fresh, grated,
2 gills of rolled and sifted crackers, Y pound of powdered sugar.
Beat the eggs to a stiff froth. Mix all the ingredients
together and bake in drops on a well-greased paper on tin,
in a very moderate oven, until firm and light-brown, 15 to
20 minutes.
N. B.—The extract of bitter almonds should measure 1
even teaspoonful.
MACAROONS.
MACARONS.
I pound of sweet almonds, Rose-water,
t " "fine sugar, 7 whites of eggs.
Blanch; skin the almonds, and pound to a paste in a mor-
tar, adding a little rose-water by degrees. Add the sugar


408
GOOD-LIVING.
and whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Drop on well-
greased paper; sprinkle with sugar, and bake in a moderate
oven until light brown.
LAYER CAKE NO. II.
3 eggs, beaten whites and yolks apart,
2 cups of sifted flour,
I yi, cups of "A" sugar (essential),
I heaping teaspoon of Royal baking-
powder,
Lemon-rind and vanilla to taste,
% teaspoon of ground mace may be
added,
I cup of butter,
I " "milk.
Cream butter and sugar together; add yolks and flavor-
ing. Beat well. Add milk ; the flour which has been sifted
with the baking-powder, and lastly the whites of eggs,
beaten to a stiff froth. Bake on well-greased jelly-tins in a
quick oven about 6 or 8 minutes. This will make 6 medium-
sized layers. Recommended.
WINE CAKE.
Layer Cake No. II., Currant-jelly,
Sherry, Powdered sugar,
Spread I layer of cake with the jelly. Cover it with a second
layer of cake. Make the icing as directed (see receipt for
Wine Icing). Set away to harden. Then transfer to a plate
on which is a fancy-cut paper, and serve. Recommended.
COFFEE LAYER CAKE.
Layer Cake No. II., Coffee Icing,
Coffee Filling.
Lay I layer of cake on a plate with the upper-side down;
spread thickly with Coffee Filling (see receipt). Cover with
a second layer of cake; spread this with Coffee Icing (see
receipt). Set away for 1 or 2 hours. Then transfer to a
plate on which is a fancy-cut paper, and serve. Recom-
mended.
ORANGE LAYER CAKE.
Make 4 layers of Layer Cake No. II. (see receipt), grating
into the batter the rind of 1 orange. Prepare a Custard


SMALL POUND-CAKES.
409
Filling (see receipt) flavored with the rind of 1 and juice of
2 oranges. When cold, place this between the layers of
cake. Make an icing of the strained juice of 1 orange, into
which beat powdered sugar until just thick enough to spread
over the top of the cake. Let it stand half an hour, and
add a second layer of icing, if liked. Decorate with glacdd
oranges and cherries. Recommended.
LA YER CAKE A U RHUM, OR KIRSCH.
Prepare 2 layers of Layer Cake No. II. Lay 1 layer on a
plate with the upper-side down. Spread it thickly with rasp-
berry-and-currant jelly or with cider jelly (the jelly must be
a little tart). Put the second layer over this. Make an icing
of 1 gill of Jamaica rum or kirsch, with powdered sugar
beaten into it until just thick enough to spread. Cover with
this and set away. After \ an hour, a second layer of icing
may be added if liked. Recommended.
Make 2 layers of Layer Cake No. II. Lay 1 layer on a plate
with the upper-side down; spread it with a thick coating of
Ice-Cream Filling (see receipt). Upon this place shelled and
skinned walnuts. Cover with a second layer of cake. Spread
with a second layer of filling, and sprinkle all over the top,
very neatly, the nuts prepared in the same way.
Proceed as for Walnut Cake, substituting hazel-nuts shelled,
skinned, and split.
WALNUT CAKE.
HAZEL-NUT CAKE.
SMALL POUND-CAKES.
3 eggs,
Their weight in sugar,
"" "flour,
Their weight in butter,
Juice and grated rind of a lemon,
I ounce of Preserved Lemon Peel (see receipt).
Cream the butter and sugar, beating thoroughly (this may
be done with the hand). Add the yolks of eggs and beat


GOOD-LIVING.
until very light. Beat the whites to' a dry froth and add
them and the flour alternately. Add the lemon-juice and
rind and the preserved peel cut into small bits. Beat hard
for several minutes until very light. Have ready well-greased
gem or patty-pans. Fill them f-full of the mixture and bake
in a moderately-quick oven 15 to 20 minutes. Test with a
broom-whisp. Set on an inverted sieve to cool. Ice the top
with Lemon Icing, if liked.
PROMISES.
I pound of sifted flour, 1 egg,
6 ounces of sugar, ^ pound of butter,
yi cup of rum or sherry.
Mix together the egg, sugar, and butter, then add the
flour; mix evenly; then add the rum or sherry. When
mixed to an even dough, about as stiff as soft putty, lay a
lump of it in a large baking-pan, and, with the hand, press it
out as thin as possible, not more than J to \ of an inch thick.
This is a little tedious, but rolling does not accomplish at all
the same results. If you keep a plate of flour near by, and
dip your hand into it now and again, it will be easier. It is
worth the trouble, being a most delicious cake, and not at all
common. When the bottom of the pan is covered, sift over
the dough some powdered sugar mixed with a little pinch of
ground cinnamon. Bake in a moderately-quick oven until
the edges are quite brown and the rest pale yellow, like deli-
cate pie-crust. Remove it from the oven. Take immediately
a sharp knife and cut through the cake the length of the pan,
then cut it across in strips about 1 inch wide. Take these
out carefully, as they break easily, and lay on a platter.
They will harden as they get cold. As the above quantity
makes a large number of cakes, it will be much quicker to
have several pans in use at a time. Dish the cakes on
cut paper in a pile, placing layers of 4 at right angles. Serve
with tea or coffee. Highly recommended.


OLD-FASHIONED JUMBLES.
411
VfTEMENT FAIT.
2 eggs,
Pinch of salt,
Flour,
Butter,
Sugar.
To the egg and salt, add enough flour to make a dough
just sufficiently stiff to roll out as thin as a chamois-skin.
Lay this upon shallow tins. Put small lumps of butter over
the top; sift sugar over all, and bake in a quick oven about
3 to 5 minutes, or until very slightly browned. Powdered
cinnamon may be added to the sugar according to taste.
When removed from the oven, and still hot, cut or break
into more or less even pieces. As it cools, it will become per-
fectly firm and crisp.
Cream together butter and sugar; beat eggs together; add
them to the butter; then add rose-water and nutmeg; lastly,
add the flour. Dust the bread-board with granulated sugar;
roll out the mixture \ of an inch thick; cut with a round cut-
ter; take the centre out with the top of the pepper-caster;
bake these rings in a moderate oven until the edges brown
slightly. Or, when done, draw the pan to the mouth of the
oven; brush over the cake with white of egg and sift with very
coarse sugar. If this is done, the cakes should be rolled out
on a floured board.
JUMBLES.
yi, pound of butter,
y£ " "powdered sugar,
^ " "sifted flour,
yi nutmeg, grated,
3 eggs,
I tablespoon of rose-water,
I pound of flour,
4 yolks of eggs,

Mix; roll out very thin on a board covered with granu-
lated sugar; cut in rounds and bake in tins in a quick oven.


412
GOOD-LIVING.
COCOA-NUT DROPS.
Equal parts of grated cocoa-nut and 6 whites of eggs to every pound of
granulated sugar, the mixture.
Beat the whites to a stiff froth; mix with sugar and
cocoa-nut. Drop on buttered tins. Bake in a very moder-
ate oven until very slightly browned.
CRISP COOKIES WITHOUT SODA.
I pound of sugar, I pound of flour,
yi " "butter, 5 eggs,
% grated nutmeg.
Cream the butter and sugar; add yolks. Beat until light.
Beat the whites to a stiff froth and beat them in with the
flour and nutmeg. Roll thin on a floured board; cut in
rounds and bake in a quick oven for about 5 minutes.
WALNUT WAFERS.
2 gills of brown sugar, y$ teaspoon of salt,
2 " "shelled walnuts, 3 even tablespoons of flour,
2 eggs.
Beat the eggs together; add sugar, salt, and flour, then
the walnuts. If not quite stiff enough, add a little more
flour. Drop in small heaps on well-greased paper and bake
in a quick oven until brown, about 5 minutes. Excellent.
GINGER SNAPS.
3 pounds of sifted flour, I pound of butter,
%, pound of sugar, I quart of molasses,
1% ounces of ground ginger, 3 teaspoons of baking-soda,
2 " " " cinnamon, 2 " "tartaric acid,
2 ounces of ground allspice.
Strain the molasses. Cream together butter and sugar,
and add all the other ingredients, the soda dissolved in a
few drops of boiling water; add the tartaric acid lastly with
the flour. Use as little extra flour for board and rolling-pin
as may be convenient. Roll as thin as possible; cut in


DROP CAKES.
413
rounds and bake in a quick oven 3 to 5 minutes. Do not
bake too long, as all ginger snaps easily acquire a burned
taste if very much browned. Watch closely, as they scorch
easily. The above ginger snaps are recommended, being
very delicate, brittle, and at the same time rich.
NOBBY BUNS.
2 pounds of sifted flour, I pound of butter,
4 teaspoons of ground cinnamon, 6 eggs,
1 % pounds of sugar.
Mix the cinnamon through the flour. Work the butter to
a cream and mix it with the flour. Beat together sugar and
eggs; then mix all as quickly as possible. Handle as little
as you can. Have ready flat sheets of tin, well greased.
Drop the mixture in rough, jagged heaps by the spoonful,
and bake in a moderately-quick oven until the edges and
points are nicely browned.
DROP CAKES.
I pound of flour, less 3 level tablespoonfuls, 5 eggs,
I " "sugar, ^ pound of butter,
^" "currants, 2 gills of sweet milk,
% teaspoon of soda and 2 teaspoons cream of tartar, or 1 teaspoons
baking-powder.
Sift flour, soda, and cream of tartar together through a fine
sieve (or baking-powder, if you use that). Cream together
butter and sugar; add a little of the milk and mix. Now
add the yolks of eggs and beat well; then add alternately
milk, beaten whites of eggs, and flour. Grease flat tins;
drop the batter on them in separate spoonfuls. Have the
currants cleaned (see receipt To Clean Currants) and sprinkle
a few over the top of each cake. Set in a quick oven and
bake a rich brown. The cakes will run together, but must
be broken apart when taken from the oven. Cool them on
a sieve. The batter for this cake is said to keep 1 week in
a cool place.


4»4
GOOD-LIVING.
MADELEINES.
>4 pound of powdered sugar, y£ pound of sifted flour,
Grated rind of I lemon, 4 eggs,
Y2 pound of butter, slightly softened, 1yi teaspoons of vanilla.
Cream together the butter and sugar; add yolks, lemon,
rind, and vanilla, and beat hard until very light. Then add
flour, and, lastly, the whites beaten to a stiff froth. Mix
them in lightly but thoroughly. Butter gem-pans or tin
shells; fill £-full of the mixture and bake in a quick oven
for about 10 minutes. Watch carefully and brown evenly.
Test with a broom-whisp. When it comes out perfectly
dry, the cakes are done. Serve as soon as they are cool. If
kept until next day, they must be shut in an air-tight tin or
stood in the ice-box; but they should be eaten fresh, and
will be found most excellent. This receipt will make about
24 small cakes.
QUEEN CAKES.
I pound of sifted flour, I pound of sugar,
^" "butter, 6 yolks of eggs,
8 whites of eggs, I gill of sherry,
I gill of rose-water, y£" "brandy.
Cream the butter and sugar together; beat the yolks to a
cream and add them to the butter and sugar. Add wine,
rose-water, and brandy. Add, alternately, the whites, beaten
to a stiff froth, and the flour. Stir only just enough to mix.
Bake in small, greased gem-pans in a moderately-quick oven
10 or 12 minutes. Test with a broom-whisp. When done,
cool on an inverted sieve, and ice.
CRULLERS.
4 tablespoons of sugar, Lard for frying,
5 " "melted lard (measured when 1 teaspoon of ground cinnamon,
melted), 3 eggs,
Sifted flour for soft dough, Powdered sugar.
Beat the eggs together with the sugar and cinnamon ; add
the lard, and flour enough to make a dough just stiff enough


CHARLOTTE-RUSSE CAKE.
415
to roll out \ an inch thick; do not add any more than
what will enable you to handle it. Cut the paste into nar-
row strips; tie the strips in bows, or loops, or any shape
your fancy may suggest. Have ready on the fire a deep
saucepan or kettle with at least 3 inches of melted lard. It
should be deep enough to float the crullers, so that they
may have space to swell without touching the bottom.
Bring it gradually to a boil. Test it (see General Direc-
tions for Frying). When certain that it does boil, pro-
ceed to fry the crullers. Have at hand a clean skimmer,
a large sheet of brown paper on a tin in the open mouth
of the oven, and the sugar. When every thing is ready,
take a plateful at a time of the crullers; drop them
carefully into the lard. Watch them, and turn them over
with the skimmer until golden-brown on all sides; then
drain them out with the skimmer and lay on the brown
paper; as soon as dry, transfer to a platter and powder
generously with sugar. Do not let them brown too much
in the cooking. If not too stiff with flour, these will be
found very light, crisp, and most excellent.
DOUGHNUTS.
\Y2 cups of sugar, 1yi cups of sweet milk,
2 tablespoons of melted lard, 2 eggs,
2 teaspoons of baking-powder, Salt and nutmeg to taste.
Mix all together, adding just enough flour to roll out half
an inch thick. Cut in rounds with a small tin cutter, and
drop into deep boiling lard. See receipt for Crullers, which
are cooked in the same way.
CHARLOTTE-RUSSE CAKE.
2 ounces of butter, 2 whites of eggs, beaten to a froth,
2 " "sifted flour, 2 ounces of powdered sugar,
2 yolks of eggs.
Mix, adding the beaten whites of eggs last. Bake in 2
shallow biscuit-tins, the batter being about £ an inch
thick. This is sufficient to line a quart mould of Charlotte
Russe.


416
GOOD-LIVING.
HENRIETTAS.
3 eggs, beaten whites and yolks apart, Pinch of ground cinnamon.
I scant teaspoon of baking-powder, I tablespoon of brandy,
} ( cup of milk or cream. Salt (pinch),
Mix all the above ingredients, and add, lastly, just enough
flour to roll out easily. Roll as thin as a wafer; cut 2x2
inches square; fry in boiling lard (see General Directions
for Frying). When gold-color, drain; sprinkle with pow-
dered sugar and serve for tea.
WASHINGTON PIE.
I cup of "A" sugar, I teaspoon of baking-soda and 2
3 cups of sifted flour, of cream of tartar, or 2 tea-
I egg, spoons of baking-powder,
I cup of sweet milk, I large tablespoon of butter.
Cream together sugar and butter; add egg; then milk; then
flour sifted with the cream of tartar; lastly, soda dissolved
in a few drops of boiling water. (Or use instead baking-
powder, sifting it with the flour.) Beat hard for 1 or 2
minutes. Bake in jelly-tins in a quick oven 6 to 8 minutes.
Fill 2 layers with Custard Filling flavored with vanilla (see
receipt) ; • sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve cold. The
remaining layers may be filled with jelly, etc., to taste.
HUCKLEBERRY CAKE.
I gill of butter, I pint of huckleberries,
3 teaspoons of baking-powder, I cup of "C" sugar,
Pinch of nutmeg, 3 cups of flour, or about,
^ cup of milk.
Rub together sugar and butter to a cream. Mix in the
nutmeg and milk. Now mix some of the flour with the
berries; shake until coated, and set aside. Mix the baking-
powder with the remaining flour. Add it to the batter.
At the last moment stir in the berries, very lightly, not to
mash them. Have ready gem-pans greased with lard. Fill


KAFFEE KUCHEtt.
417
J-full of batter. Set in a moderately-quick oven 20 to
30 minutes. Test with a broom-whisp, and when done
serve hot for tea.
CHEESE-CAKES.
\Yz cups of cottage cheese, 2 tablespoons of cream,
1 gill of soft sugar, 1 teaspoon of melted butter.
Juice and grated- rind of I lemon, 3 eggs.
Press the cheese (see Schmier-Kase) through a colander.
Beat the eggs together until smooth. Add these and all
the other ingredients to the cheese. Beat smooth. Have
ready I pie-dish or several small patty-pans lined with Flaky
Crust or Good Plain Paste (see receipts); fill with the cheese
and bake in a quick oven 25 to 30 minutes for the large
dish, or 12 to 15 for the small tins.
KAFFEE KUCHEN.
1 pound of risen dough ready for the oven, 2 whites of eggs,
4 ounces of sugar, I egg,
2 tablespoons of powdered sugar, 3 ounces of butter,
24 almonds.
Cream the butter and beat it well with the sugar and egg.
Work this with the hand into the dough very thoroughly.
Set in a warm place to rise. When light, pour it into a
small dripping-pan that has been well greased. (When
baked, it should not be more than § of an inch thick.) Let
it stand 10 or 15 minutes. Put it in a moderately-quick
oven, and while it is baking, prepare the icing. The cake
should bake from 20 to 30 minutes, according to the heat
of the oven. Blanch the almonds and cut them in little
strips. Beat the 2 whites of eggs slightly, then add the
powdered sugar by degrees, and beat until stiff and glossy.
When the cake is done, draw it to the door of the oven;
spread it with the icing; stick it all over with the almonds;
or stir them into the icing before spreading it. Leave it in
the open oven door until dry; or set it in the oven for 2
*7


418
GOOD-LIVIMG.
or 3 minutes until the almonds are a little browned. Watch
it, that it may not scorch.
N. B.—It will be noticed that the icing should be only
about -J- as thick of sugar as usual.
Pare, core, and boil enough apples to make \ a pound
when pressed through a coarse sieve. Add the sugar, butter,
and the eggs, leaving out 2 whites; add the juice and
grated rind of the lemon. Stir and mix well. Line small
patty-pans with Flaky Crust (see receipt); fill with the
mixture, and bake in a quick oven 15 or 20 minutes.
APPLE CHEESE-CAKES (ENGLISH).
8 ounces of apple-pulp,
4 ounces of butter, melted,
Rind and juice of 1 lemon,
4 ounces of sifted sugar,
4 eggs.



ICINGS AND FILLINGS FOR CAKES.
APRICOT OR PEACH FILLING.
Peel the apricots or peaches, and cut in thin slices; beat
the whites of 2 eggs until light; then add gradually 4 table-
spoonfuls of powdered sugar and beat hard until it will
stand alone. Put a layer of this upon the layer of cake, then
a layer of the fruit; another layer of cake on top of this;
repeat for as many layers as you have; dust the top with
sugar, and serve.
CHOCOLATE FILLING.
Melt 4 ounces of grated chocolate over boiling water.
Beat the whites of 2 eggs to a foam; add gradually 4 table-
spoonfuls of powdered sugar, beating all the while. Beat
until stiff enough to stand alone; then add the chocolate
gradually, beating always. Fill the cake with this, and ice
the top with Chocolate Icing (see receipt). Or, add to the
melted chocolate 4 ounces of sugar and 1 teaspoonful of
vanilla, omitting eggs.
COCOA-NUT FILLING.
Beat the whites of 2 eggs to a foam; add gradually 4 table-
spoonfuls of powdered sugar, and beat until it will stand
alone. Spread a layer of this and of grated cocoa-nut between
the layers of cake. Finish the top also with a layer of egg
and a thick coating of grated cocoa-nut.
419


420
GOOD-LIVING.
LEMON-CUSTARD FILLING.
1 cup of boiling water, Juice and grated rind of 1 lemon,
2 heaping teaspoons of corn-starch, I gill of sugar,
2 eggs.
Bring the sugar, water, and lemon, juice and rind, to a
boil. Blend the corn-starch with a few drops of cold water.
Stir it into the boiling water and stir while it boils 2 or 3
minutes. Beat the eggs in a bowl, and when the water and
lemon are boiling, stir them gradually into the eggs, stirring
briskly. If not quite thick enough, set over boiling water,
and stir for a few minutes until the eggs set a little. Do
not let it boil, or it will curdle. Do not let it thicken too
much, as it stiffens when cold.
ORANGE-CUSTARD FILLING.
Proceed exactly as for Lemon-Custard Filling, substituting
1 orange for the lemon.
ALMOND-PASTE FILLING.
^ pound of sweet almonds, Sifted powdered sugar,
1 ounce of bitter almonds, White of I egg,
Rose-water to taste.
Blanch the almonds and pound to a paste in a mortar,
adding now and again a few drops of rose-water to avoid
oiling. Mix with an equal weight of sugar. Moisten with
the white of egg; allow it to dry slightly, and then spread
on thin layers of cake cut into neat shapes; or use as filling
for Archangel Cake, etc.
COFFEE FILLING.
Make a cupful of strong black coffee, Mocha and Java
mixed; add to this a little cream, about I tablespoonful,
and £ a cup of sugar. Bring to a boil and stir into it 2
heaping teaspoonfuls of corn-starch blended with a little cold
coffee. Have 2 eggs beaten in a bowl. When the coffee
has boiled 3 minutes, stirring all the while, pour it gradually


COFFEE ICING.
421
upon the eggs, stirring briskly. If not quite thick enough,
set over boiling water on the fire, and stir until the egg sets
a little. Do not boil, or it will curdle. Pour this over the
layer of cake, placing another layer on top, and so on. Fin-
ish the top with Coffee Icing (see receipt). The custard
must not be too thick, as it will harden in cooling.
CUSTARD FILLING.
Proceed exactly as above, substituting milk for coffee,
and using any flavoring that may be preferred.
ICE-CREAM FILLING.
2 whites of eggs, 4 tablespoons of powdered sugar,
Flavoring.
Beat the whites until only foamy, then beat in the sugar
by degrees and beat until smooth, stiff, and glossy. It
should be as stiff as meringue, not as stiff as icing. The
same may be used for the top of the cake also.
LEMON ICING.
Squeeze and strain the juice of a lemon; stir into it, by
degrees, enough sugar to enable you to spread the icing.
Having covered the top of the cake, set away for 1 or 2
hours in a cool place. If a deeper icing is required, after
the cake has stood for a few minutes, add a second layer.
Recommended.
RUM, BRANDY, KIRSCH ICING.
For a moderate-sized cake, take about 1 gill of either of
the above; beat in powdered sugar until thick enough to
spread. Cover the cake. Set away for 1 or 2 hours in a
cool place. If a thicker icing is wanted, after \ an hour spread
a second layer over the first. Recommended.
COFFEE ICING.
Take a gill of very strong, well cleared and strained coffee;
stir into it powdered sugar until thick enough to spread.


GOOD-LIVING.
Cover the cake and set away for I or 2 hours in a cool place.
If a thicker icing is wanted, add a second layer. Recom-
mended.
ORANGE ICING.
See Lemon and other icings.
EGG ICING.
I pound of sugar, Whites of 3 eggs,
Flavoring.
Beat the whites only until frothy, not stiff, or the icing
will take longer to dry. Add the sugar gradually, beating
all the while. Flavor to taste with lemon, orange, vanilla,
etc., adding, however, very little liquid, or more sugar will
be required. When stiff enough, dip a knife in cold water
and smooth the icing over the cake. This is sufficient to
cover a good-sized cake.
CREAM ICING.
1 pound of powdered sugar, I gill of boiling water.
Whites of 3 eggs.
Boil the sugar and water for 6 minutes, or until it makes a
thread when poured from the spoon. While the sugar boils,
beat the eggs to a stiff froth. Put them into a bowl, and
when the syrup reaches the desired point, pour it in a fine
stream upon the eggs while you beat with a Dover egg-
beater. When thick enough to spread, dip a knife in cold
water and smooth the icing over the cake. It will have to
be beaten until almost, if not quite, cold.
WINE ICING.
For a moderate-sized cake, take 1 gill of wine; stir into it
enough powdered sugar to make it thick enough to spread;
smooth it over the cake and set it away for an hour or more
in a cool, dry place. If a thicker icing is required, add a
second layer. This system is strongly recommended, as
being very simple and a great saving of time. See Lemon
Icing, etc.



PASTRY, PIES, AND PUDDINGS.
PUFF-PASTE.
pAte feu1lletee.
I pound of dry sifted flour, I pound of freshest butter,
I egg, Ice-water, about I gill.
As the manipulation of puff-paste is the most important
point in its manufacture, it is rather difficult to reach success
through a recipe alone ; if you cannot see it made once by a
first-class hand, you will have to gain your own experience
by patient practice. A receipt can, after all, only give a
certain amount of assistance towards success: in this case
much depends upon the cook. First of all, the flour must
be dry and of the best quality ; the butter should be washed
and set away until as cold and firm as ice ; ice-water should
be used in the mixing; it should be made in as cool a place
as possible, and rolled on a marble slab. When all is ready,
cut the butter in 4 equal parts. Put the flour in a mound in
a bowl; make a hole in the centre, break in the egg and
work it in, handling very little and lightly. Add just enough
ice-water to make the paste soft enough to roll out. Flour
the board and pin with a little extra flour, and roll out the
paste quite thin. Take \ of the butter, break it up in
bits ; dot these over the surface of the paste; dredge them
very lightly with a little extra flour, and fold the paste over
from the sides to the centre, then in 3. Turn £-way round
and roll this again until quite thin; add the second \ of
butter broken in bits as before; dredge with flour; fold as
before and roll always in the same direction—from you;
423


424 GOOD-LIVING.
dredge again. Repeat this process, turning £-way each
time, until all the butter is in. After the last rolling, fold it
again and cut it with a floured knife into 3 parts. Lay
these on plates and set in the ice-box for an hour or more,
until perfectly firm. It is now ready for use. For pies, it
should be rolled out about \ of an inch thick for the top ; the
edges should have 1 or 2 extra layers of paste. It is best to
make the under-crust of Flaky Crust or Good Plain Paste
rolled thin, and keep the puff-paste for the upper crust and
edges, where it can rise better. This paste does for vol-au-
vents, small pates, etc., etc. For these latter, it is advisable,
when the empty shell is baked, to draw it to the mouth
of the oven, brush the top over with beaten egg, and set it
back for 1 minute or 2 to brown. The oven should always
be very hot and very even for baking puff, or indeed any,
paste. Do not set the pie-plate too near the inner, or fire,
side of the oven, or it will bake unevenly, one side rising
higher than the other.
The raw paste may be kept for 24 hours in the ice-box;
but once baked, it must not be placed near the ice, or it will
become tough beyond correction.
N. B.—-The egg may be omitted if desired, but is consid-
ered a good addition.
FLAKY PIE-CRUST.
1 pound of sifted flour, 9 ounces of butter,
7 ounces of good firm lard, yi teaspoon of salt,
2 gills of ice-water.
This quantity will make 3 pies of ordinary size. Rub the
butter and flour lightly but firmly together, being careful to
keep the flour always between the lard and the hand. Add
the water, mixing with a knife. Place the paste on a floured
board, using a very little extra flour; roll it into a thin
sheet; dot it all over with \ of the butter; dredge a little
extra flour over it, and, with the hands touching as little as
possible, roll it up like a sheet of music. Divide it in 2.
Divide one of the halves into 3 parts for the bottom crust;


POTATO PASTRY.
425
roll these out, and cover the pie-plates. Now roll the
remaining paste into a thin sheet. Dot it over with £ the
remaining butter; sift a little flour over it; lap the 4 corners
toward the centre; roll again thin ; dot with the remaining
butter ; dredge with flour ; fold as before, but do not roll out
quite as thin. Roll into a thick scroll. To cover each
pie, cut \ of the scroll, flour both ends, and roll it on the end
quite thin. Put 3 thin layers for 1 cover, instead of 1
thick layer, notching the edges together and trimming neatly.
N. B.—Always roll in the same direction—from you.
Bake in a quick oven.
Sift the flour into a 2-quart bowl. Cut the butter and lard
(well iced) through it with a knife into bits about the size of
a cherry. Sprinkle the water over all, and mix with a knife,
using as few strokes as possible. Flour a space on the board
about 24 x 18 inches. Turn out the dough in the centre of
the space. Flour the pin, and roll the dough until nearly
large enough to cover the floured space. Now sift a very
thin coating of flour over the whole sheet; fold it in 3,
lengthwise and across, making a piece about 8x6 inches.
Flour the board again. Roll out again; sift with flour, and
fold as before; roll a third time; sift again; now roll it like
a sheet of music. Cut it across the centre; lay it on a plate
in the ice-box for 15 minutes or longer; then it may be used.
GOOD PLAIN PASTE.
1 pound of sifted flour,
Yz pound of lard,
5 ounces of flour for board and pin,
Yz pound of butter,
2 gills of ice-water,
Pinch of salt.
POTATO PASTRY.
pound of sifted flour,
3 ounces of butter,
% pound of mashed potato,
Pinch of salt,
Ice-water.
Press the potatoes through a colander. Add flour, butter,
salt, and mix. Add enough water for stiff paste. Roll out.
Use for plain meat-pies, etc.


426
GOOD-LIVING.
SUET PASTE.
I pound of sifted flour, 6 ounces of beef-suet,
I teaspoon of salt, I cup of ice-water.
Remove the fibres from the suet, and chop it very fine.
Rub in the flour and salt with the hands. Then add
enough water to make a soft dough. Roll out. Use for
meat-pies and apple-dumplings.
MINCE-PIE NO. I.
1 fresh tongue, boiled and minced very 1 pound of brown sugar,
fine, I cup of New Orleans molasses,
3 pounds of suet, well picked over, and I heaping tablespoon of ground cin-
laid in cold water, namon,
4 poundsof raisins, stoned, not chopped, Y heaping tablespoon of ground cloves,
4 " "currants, cleaned (see re- I" """allspice,
ceipt), I nutmeg, grated,
2 pounds of citron, sliced, I pint of cider,
2 quarts of brandy.
Stir all but the brandy together ; put it in a crock without
the brandy, and leave it for I hour in a slow oven. Stir oc-
casionally. Then remove the crock from the oven; stir in
brandy enough to make the mixture very soft. Cover
closely, and set away. Allow at least I month, or if pos-
sible 6 weeks, for it to mature, adding a little brandy from
time to time, if it dries out at all. Add spice or sugar to
taste, as may be required. To make up the pies, add 4
apples, peeled and chopped, to about I quart of the mince-
meat. These pies have quite a peculiar charm about them,
the secret being that the excellent housekeeper who makes
them always adds, at the last, some preserved strawberries and
candied cherries, with sufficient fresh brandy to make the
mince-meat very soft. They have a mellowness of flavor
seldom met with in the mince-pies of modern times. The
pies should be made up with the very best Puff-Paste, or
with Flaky Pie-Crust. The under-crust should be very thin,
the edges built up with I or 2 extra layers, notched together
and trimmed neatly. Bake only until just done, allowing for


428 GOOD-LIVING.
milk; sift very lightly with powdered sugar, and return to
the oven until nicely colored. Serve whole when cold.
Or, roll out some Puff Paste (see receipt), very thin. Lay
over it a large jelly-cake tin and cut the paste out in a circle.
Butter this over with Custard Filling (see receipt), made a
little thicker and flavored with vanilla. Lay over this a
second layer of paste cut like the first; press the edges
together; score the surface diagonally with a knife. Bake
in a quick oven 15 to 20 minutes, until gold-color. When
nearly done, brush the surface with a little yolk of egg mixed
with a few drops of milk; sift powdered sugar very lightly
over the top, and return to the oven until nicely colored.
As soon as it is cool, serve immediately. For either of the
above, Flaky Pie-Crust (see receipt) may also be used.
OLD-FASHIONED LEMON-CUSTARD PIE.
Juice and grated rind of 3 lemons, 4 whites of eggs,
4 ounces of butter, I pound of powdered sugar,
6 yolks of eggs.
FOR MERINGUE:
6 whites of eggs, 6 tablespoons of powdered sugar.
Beat the yolks and sugar to a cream; then add the 4 un-
beaten whites, 1 at a time, beating the whole very light.
Beat the butter to a cream, and add to it the egg-mixture by
degrees. Then stand the bowl in a pan of boiling water on
the fire, and stir without ceasing until it thickens. Remove
from the fire and set away to cool. Line 2 deep pie-dishes
with Flaky Pie-crust or Good Plain Paste (see receipts), and
bake in a quick oven for 15 minutes. When the crust is
baked, remove from the oven and fill with the Lemon Cus-
tard, pressing down the bottom crust if it has formed any
air-bubbles, or the surface of the pie may be uneven. Now,
beat the 6 whites of eggs until foamy; then add the 6
tablespoons of powdered sugar by degrees, beating steadily.
After the sugar is in, beat until stiff and glossy. Heap the
meringue tastefully on top of the custard; sift over the top


PUMPKIN PIE.
429
a little granulated sugar, and set in a very quick oven for
about 2 minutes, until slightly browned. Watch carefully
that it may not scorch or brown unevenly.
CUSTARD PIE.
I quart of milk,
6 eggs,
1% gills of sugar,
Pinch of salt,
Vanilla or other flavoring to taste.
Line a deep pie-plate with Flaky Pie-Crust or Good Plain
Paste (see receipts), rolled thin. Build up the edges with
extra rows; trim neatly and bake until pale yellow. Mean-
while, make the custard as follows: Scald the milk over
boiling water; beat the eggs together in a bowl ; beat the
sugar and the flavoring with them. When the milk boils,
pour it upon the eggs very gently, and stir until the sugar is
dissolved and well-mixed. Pour this into the crust ; if the
edge is not high enough, add another layer and notch it
neatly, wetting it slightly to make it stick. The custard
should be fully i inch deep. Bake in a moderately-quick
oven until the custard sets, which will be from 15 to 20
minutes. If you do not wish to use so many eggs, thicken
the boiling milk with i level tablespoonful of corn-starch
blended with 2 tablespoonfuls of cold milk ; bring it to a
boil and stir until slightly thickened ; pour this over 4 eggs,
etc., and finish as above.
PUMPKIN PIE.
To i quart of mashed pumpkin allow Play
I gill of flour,
Good Plain Paste (see receipt),
1 tablespoon of good liquor,
I large tablespoon of butter,.
12 nutmeg grated, hoitamiseader
I teaspoon of ground ginger,
I heaping teaspoon of ground cinnamon, 2 “ “salt,
1/2 teaspoon of ground mace,
Sugar to taste,
I pint of milk and 3 eggs, or i quart of lemon, grated rind,
milk and 6 eggs,
12" jaice,
4 teaspoon ground cloves. Snoths
Peel and boil the pumpkin, with just enough water to keep
it from burning, for about 30 minutes, until tender; drain


430
GOOD-LIVING.
very dry and mash it through a colander or coarse sieve. Or
it may first be steamed, then mashed. Bring the milk to a
boil; blend the flour with a little cold water; stir it into the
boiling milk; stir and boil about 3 minutes, until thick. Mix
this in a bowl with the pumpkin, while all are hot. Add the
spices, sugar, lemon-peel, juice, liquor, etc., and lastly the eggs
mixed smooth with a very little cold water. Have your pie-
dishes ready lined with very thin paste; add 1 or 2 extra
layers to the edges. Pour in the mixture, finish with an
edge neatly notched and trimmed. It should be nearly I
inch deep. Bake 15 or 20 minutes. Draw to the mouth of
the oven; brush the edges with a little egg, and return to
the oven until nicely browned.
N. B.—The above receipt serves likewise for squash pie*.
SWEET-POTATO CUSTARD PIE.
3 good-sized sweet potatoes, Butter, size of a walnut,
I cup of milk, I gill of soft sugar,
3 tablespoons of powdered sugar, 2 tablespoons of brandy,
Grated rind and juice of I orange, 3 eggs,
I teaspoon of ground cinnamon, Good Plain Paste (see receipt).
Parboil the potatoes 30 minutes; set away. When cold,
peel and grate. Beat together butter, sugar, and yolks of
eggs until very light. Add the potato gradually, stirring all
the time. Then add all the other ingredients, except the
powdered sugar and whites of eggs. Line a deep pie-dish
with Good Plain Paste ; build up the edges with 1 or 2 extra
layers; notch neatly; fill with the mixture. Bake in a
moderately-quick oven 30 minutes. Beat the whites of eggs
to a foam; add the sifted powdered sugar by degrees, beat-
ing all the while. Then beat until stiff and glossy. When
the pie is baked, heap the meringue tastefully on the top,
sift over a little granulated sugar, and set in a very quick
oven for about 2 minutes, until slightly browned. Watch
carefully that it does not scorch or brown unevenly.
N. B.—The orange may be omitted if preferred.
There should be about I quart of the mashed sweet potatoes
for the above.


CRANBERRY PIE.
431
CURRANT PIE.
Line a pie-plate with Good Plain Paste, or Flaky Pie-Crust
(see receipts). Remove the stems from the currants and lay
a layer of the fruit in the pie-dish. Cover with a layer of
sugar nearly as thick; another of currants and another of
sugar. Dredge 1 level tablespoonful of flour over the top;
cover with paste; trim and notch the edges; cut an X in the
centre of the cover and bake in a moderately-quick oven for
about 30 minutes.
Cherry, blackberry, and all small-fruit pies may be made
in the same way, with more or less sugar according to the
acidity of the fruit. In baking deep pies, put an inverted
cup in the middle. (See note for baking fruit pies.)
APPLE PIE.
TOURTE AUX POMMES.
Select sound, tart apples. Peel and core without breaking
them. Boil some whole (allowing 4 for each pie) in a stew-
pan with a little lemon-juice, a strip of the yellow peel, some
sugar, and enough water to cover the apples. Cook until
they can be pierced easily. Quarter other apples; put them
into another stewpan with lemon-juice, peel, and sugar; and
put enough water to cover. Stew these to a jam; add a
lump of butter and \ the bulk of apples in peach marmalade,
and rub all through a colander. Line the pie-plates with
Good Plain Paste (see receipt). Put on the bottom a layer
of the apple jam; set 4 whole apples in each pie; fill the
cavities in the apples and the spaces between with peach
marmalade. Put strips of good crust \ an inch wide in a
lattice across the top between the apples, and trim the edge
neatly with 1 or more layers of paste, neatly notched. Bake
in a quick oven about 20 minutes. Watch that it does not
bake unevenly. Serve with cream. Recommended.
CRANBERRY PIE.
Line a pie-dish with Good Plain Paste; fill it with raw
cranberries; add \ a cup of molasses and 4 tablespoonfuls of
1 •


43 2
GOOD-LIVING.
sugar. Cover with crust. Trim the edges neatly. Bake in
a moderately-quick oven 30 minutes. Or, use Flaky Pie-
Crust (see receipt).
ORANGE PIE.
1 teacup of sugar,
I heaping tablespoon of corn-starch,
% orange-peel, grated,
1 orange, juice,
2 tablespoons of powdered sugar,
1 tablespoon of butter,
1 teacup of boiling water,
1 egg.
Pie-crust (see receipt),
2 whites of eggs.
Rub the butter and sugar to a cream. Blend the corn-
starch with a little cold water, and stir it into the boiling
water, which is ready in a saucepan on the fire. Stir for I
minute or 2. Add to this the butter, sugar, and grated
orange-peel and juice. Remove from the fire, and stir in
1 egg, which has been mixed smooth with a few drops of
cold water. Line a deep pie-dish with Flaky Pie-Crust (see
receipt), and bake it. When it is firmly set, and slightly
browned, pour in the custard. Return to the oven for 10 or
12 minutes, or until the egg sets. Beat up 2 whites of eggs
until foamy; add gradually 2 tablespoonfuls of powdered
sugar. Beat until stiff and glossy. When the pie is ready,
arrange this over the top; sprinkle a little granulated sugar
lightly over all, and set in a quick oven for about 2 minutes,
until slightly browned.
LEMON PIE.
Prepare exactly the same as Orange Pie, adding to the
orange \ the grated peel of 1 lemon, and all the juice. An
extra egg may be added to the custard with advantage,
using in that case the 2 yolks, and reserving the whites for
the meringue. If the latter is tastefully arranged, the edge
may be decorated with a few glaced oranges, which will
make a very tempting and attractive dessert.


PEACH TART.
CRANBERRY TART.
433
I quart cranberries,
Sugar to taste,
I cup of water (boiling),
Pie-crust (see receipt).
Bring the cranberries and water to a boil; cook gently;
stir frequently, and mash the berries. When they are done,
which will be in about 1£ hours, remove them from the fire,
and stir in sugar to taste. Line a pie-dish with Flaky Pie-
Crust. Pour in the cranberries. Put strips of crust in a
lattice over the top; arrange the edge neatly, and bake for
about 15 minutes. Brush the top of the crust with yolk of
egg and milk, and return to the oven until nicely browned.
Rub the butter into the flour and sugar; add the yolks of
eggs, and mix well with a knife. Then add just enough ice-
water to make a paste that will roll out. It must be a firm
paste, rather dry. Be careful that the flour is dry, and the
butter cold. Roll out the paste about \ of an inch thick.
Line with it a pie-dish, at least I inch deep, with straight
sides. Trim the edges neatly, and bake the empty crust in
a quick oven for 10 or 12 minutes. Have already prepared
the peaches, peeled, halved, and stewed until transparent,
with sugar, allowing about f of a pound of sugar to 1 pound
of fruit. When the tart is to be served, fill it neatly with the
peaches, lapping the halves one over another; pour some of
the syrup over, and serve with a pitcher of cream. The
peaches should not be allowed to stand long in the crust, or
its crispness will be destroyed. The crust should be firm,
brittle, and crisp, not flaky.
PEACH TART.
TOURTE AUX PECHES.
I pound of sifted flour,
Yolks of 2 eggs,
I gill of ice-water,
^ pound of fresh butter,
I tablespoon of sifted sugar,
Peaches.


434
GOOD-LIVING.
STRAWBERRY TART.
TOURTE AUX FRAISES.
Proceed as above, using strawberries instead of peaches.
PINE-APPLE TART.
TOURTE A L'ANANAS.
Proceed as above, using sliced and stewed pine-apple instead
of peaches.
STRAWBERRY SHORT-CAKE.
1 quart of sifted flour, I teaspoon of salt,
4 ounces of butter. Sugar,
2 teaspoons of baking-powder. Milk,
2 quart boxes of strawberries, Cream.
Stem the berries; slightly mash them, and sweeten them
to taste. Set aside. Rub the butter into the flour, having
sifted the latter with the baking-powder; add salt; then add
sufficient milk to make a dough soft enough to roll out easily-
Mix quickly and lightly. Flour the board and pin. Roll
out the paste f of an inch thick. Divide in 2 parts. Lay I
layer of this in a large baking-pan. Dust the top with flour
and lay a second layer of the paste over this. Set in a quick
oven and bake about 20 minutes. When done, take a knife
and carefully separate the 2 layers of cake. Set I on a plat-
ter; spread it thickly with butter, then with a layer of ber-
ries, well sugared; lay on this the second layer of cake, the
rest of the berries and sugar. Stand it in the open mouth
of the oven until ready to send to table, and serve with a
pitcher of rich cream.
RASPBERRY SHORT-CAKE.
Proceed exactly as for Strawberry Short-Cake, substituting
raspberries.
PEACH SHORTCAKE.
Proceed as for Strawberry Short-Cake, substituting peaches.


BROWN BETTY, OR PAN,DOWDY. 435
CREAMED APPLE-TART.
I pint of apples, pared and cored,
yi teaspoon of grated lemon-peel,
I tablespoon of lemon-juice,
2 ounces of brown sugar,
yi pint of boiled custard,
Puff Paste or Flaky Pie-Crust.
Line a deep pie-dish with pastry; fill it with the apples,
sliced; add sugar, lemon-peel and juice, and 2 or 3 table-
spoonfuls of cold water. Cover with crust; trim and notch
the edges neatly. Bake in a hot oven 30 to 45 minutes. Be
careful not to brown too much. When the tart is baked, cut
out evenly a round piece from the centre of the top; fill in
the custard level with the top; grate a little nutmeg over
the custard. Serve very cold. This is an old-fashioned
Take a pudding-dish; lay on the bottom a layer of apples;
over this a layer of stale, grated bread-crumbs, just thick
enough to cover the apple; add little lumps of butter, sugar,
and a pinch each of cloves, allspice, and twice as big a pinch
of cinnamon. Then begin again with the apples, crumbs,
etc., and continue till the dish is filled, ending with a thick
layer of bread-crumbs and lumps of butter. Then, with the
blade of a knife, make a space on 4 sides, between the
dish and the pudding, and pour in £ a cupful of molasses
and same quantity of cold water. This is the allowance for
a quart dish. Smooth the spaces over. Set the dish in a pan
into which pour boiling water to the depth of the pudding-
dish. Bake for f of an hour, or until a broom-whisp^n be
easily introduced into the apples. Be generous wi^ the
butter, and bake well, and this pudding will be a success.
Eat hot with cream. It is also good eaten cold.
Raisins and citron added to each layer make this richer,
but less dirvstible.
dish.

Sugar.


436
GOOD-LIVING.
SPICED APPLE PUDDING.
3 cups of bread-crumbs, 3 cups of chopped apples,
1 cup of sugar, "A " or "C ", I pint of milk,
% pound of stoned raisins, % pound of citron (or not),
2 tablespoons of brandy, I tablespoon of ground cinnamon,
yi, teaspoon of ground cloves, I teaspoon of mace,
3 eggs, beaten, whites and yolks apart.
Scald the milk. Stir in the crumbs and scald for 1 or 2
minutes. Remove from the fire. Mix together all the in-
gredients, adding lastly the whites beaten to a stiff froth.
Butter a pudding-dish; fill with the batter and bake for
about 40 minutes in a moderately-quick oven. Watch that
it does not brown unevenly. Serve with Custard Sauce or
other (see receipts for pudding sauces).
BLACKBERRY PUDDING, BAKED.
% pound of butter, 1 pound of brown sugar,
""flour, 4 eggs.
I quart of berries, not too ripe.
Cream the sugar and butter. Add the yolks of eggs.
Beat until very light. Beat the whites to a stiff froth;
add them and the flour alternately. Have ready a buttered
pudding-dish. Stir the blackberries quickly and lightly into
the batter. Fill the dish f-full of the mixture. Bake for 1
hour and 15 to 30 minutes in a moderately-quick oven.
Watch that it does not scorch or bake unevenly. Serve hot
with Hard or Wine Sauce. Excellent.
BLACKBERRY PUDDING, BOILED.
\% pounds of sifted flour, 1 quart of blackberries,
2 gills of chopped suet, 2 gills of molasses,
2 " "milk, 2 " «« brown sugar,
1 teaspoon of soda dissolved in 1 tablespoon of boiling water.
Mix together the suet, milk, molasses, and sugar. Add \
the flour, then the soda; mix well; then add the rest of the
flour and the fruit. Fill a greased mould f-full of the mix-


CABINET PUDDING.'
437
ture. Leave plenty of room for the pudding to swell. Have
ready a pot of boiling water; cover the mould tightly and
put it into the kettle of boiling water. Boil without inter-
ruption for 3 hours and 30 minutes; or steam over the water
4 hours. For boiling, cover the mould tightly; it may be
steamed in a bowl. Serve with a Pudding Sauce (see re-
ceipts). If any is left cold next day, it may be sliced and
fried in butter.
Proceed as directed for Blackberry Pudding, Boiled, sub-
stituting huckleberries.
Chop the peaches and suet. Mix them with the flour and
salt. Add just enough water to keep the ingredients to-
gether in as stiff a batter as can be easily stirred—almost as
stiff as dough. Tie it in a floured pudding-bag, leaving
plenty of room to swell. Have ready boiling a large pot of
water, and drop the pudding into it. Boil without intermis-
sion about 4 hours. Or, tie in the bag and steam for the
same length of time. Serve hot with Wine or Lemon Sauce
(see receipts).
Butter a quart mould well. Line the bottom with raisins,
stoned, and citron and apricots cut in fancy shapes. Cover
with slices of stale cake; add more raisins, citron, and apri-
cots, alternating with cake, until within \ inches of the top.
HUCKLEBERR Y PUDDING.

3 gills of beef suet, I teaspoon of salt,
Cold water.
CABINET PUDDING.
3 tablespoons of sugar,
I pint of milk,
Raisins,
Cake,
3 yolks of eggs,
Pinch of salt,
Citron,
I ounce of candied peaches or apricots.


438
GOOD-LIVING.
Scald the milk. Beat to a cream the sugar and eggs. Pour
the boiling milk carefully upon the eggs, stirring briskly.
Add vanilla or rum to taste. Pour this into the mould over
the cake. Cover. Set the mould in a pan; pour cold water
into the pan to \ the height of the mould. Put the pan on
the range until the water comes to a boil; then put the pan
into the oven and bake the pudding I hour. When done,
turn the pudding out of the mould and serve with Wine
Sauce (see receipt).
JIM CROW.
Put New Orleans molasses in a frying-pan and let it boil
until it thickens—about 6 minutes. It should be £ an inch
deep. Have ready buttered slices of bread, without crusts;
cut them in square or oblong pieces. Lay them in the boil-
ing molasses until crisp. Drain and serve hot.
BE A ULIEU PUDDING.
1 lemon, 3 ounces of sugar,
2 ounces of Candied Lemon-Peel, 6" "butter,
6 bitter almonds, shredded, 6" "sifted flour,
10 sweet"" 4 eggs.
Cream the butter and sugar; add yolks of eggs and beat
very light. Beat the whites to a stiff froth. Add to the
sugar the lemon-peel cut fine (see receipt), the almonds, the
juice and grated rind of the lemon. Lastly add the whites
alternately with the flour. Mix carefully. Have ready
buttered gem-pans; fill these f-full with the mixture, and
bake 20 to 30 minutes in a moderately-quick oven. When
firm, serve turned out on a cut paper. Serve at the same
time, in a sauce-boat, a Brandy Sauce or other (see receipts).
ROYAL CO BURG PUDDING.
I pint of new milk, 6 ounces of flour,
6 ounces of sugar, 6 " "butter,
6 " "currants, 6 eggs,
Grated nutmeg, Brandy to taste.
Mix together the flour and cold milk until smooth; stir in
the remaining ingredients gradually, first creaming the butter
and sugar together. When well mixed and smooth, fill 4


RICE PUDDING NO. I.
439
small pudding-moulds or bowls £-full. Bake 45 minutes.
Turn the puddings out on a cut paper and serve with Wine
or Brandy Sauce (see receipts) in a sauce-boat.
RICE CREAM PUDDING.
RIZ A LA CREME.
1 cup of freshly-boiled rice, hot, Flavoring to taste,
3^" "sugar, 3 cups of milk,
2 tablespoons of powdered sugar, I tablespoon of corn-starch,
2 eggs.
Blend the corn-starch with a little of the cold milk; then
add the rest of the milk to it. Stir in the yolks of eggs and
sugar beaten together. Set this over the fire in a farina-
kettle; stir, and, when hot, add the hot rice. Stir it care-
fully over the fire until it begins to thicken like boiled
custard; then remove it from the fire and add flavoring,
vanilla and lemon, to taste. Pour it into a pudding-dish and
set it in a moderately-hot oven. Beat the whites of the
eggs to a foam, then add 2 tablespoons of powdered sugal
and beat until stiff and glossy. When the pudding is nicely
browned (about 25 to 30 minutes), spread the meringue over
the top, sprinkle lightly with granulated sugar, and return
to the oven to brown slightly. The oven should be very hot
for the meringue, or it will fall. If it is not convenient to
heat up the oven to the degree required for this, heat the
kitchen shovel red-hot and hold it over the top of the s
meringue until sufficiently browned. Serve very cold.
N. B.—If the receipt is carefully followed the pudding
will be very creamy.
RICE PUDDING NO. I.
RIZ AU LAIT.
3 tablespoons of rice, well washed, 3 pints of milk,
3 '• '• "C" sugar, Small lump of butter,
Stick of cinnamon. Pinch of salt.
Three quarters of an hour, oven door closed.
Two and one quarter hours, oven door open.
Stir every time a top forms, until about 30 minutes before
it is to be done.


440
GOOD-LIVING.
RICE PUDDING NO. IT.
RIZ AU LAIT.
I cup of rice, well washed,
8 tablespoons of " C " sugar,
Pinch of salt, - '. #-
2 quarts of milk,
Butter,
Vanilla to taste.
x'o make the rice pudding creamy, open the oven door at
1ntervals and stir down the top that forms until within about
30 minutes of the time when it is to be done; then let it
brown nicely. Remove it from the oven before it gets firm,
as, in cooling, it becomes very much firmer. The time is
about 3 hours as in above receipt, but must be governed by
the quality of the oven, which should be slow.
Boil some rice (see receipt); drain; add just enough boil-
ing milk to cover, and let it stew until the milk is absorbed;
or boil the rice in milk. It should be well moistened with
milk when prepared as follows: Stir into it sugar to taste,
and I ounce of butter. When hot, stir in quickly 2 beaten
eggs. Butter a plain pudding-mould; cover the bottom
with bread-crumbs. Put in a layer of rice \ an inch deep;
then a layer of peaches, peeled and stoned; sift with sugar;
then begin with another layer of rice; cover with another of
peaches and sugar, and so on until the mould is filled, finish-
ing with a layer of rice. Bake in a moderately-quick oven
30 to 40 minutes, if you use raw peaches; 15 or 20, if canned;
or preserved. When done, turn the pudding carefully out
of the mould on a cut paper, and serve with Maryland
Sauce (see receipt).
Make a rich Biscuit dough (see receipt). Roll out about
£ an inch thick; spread thickly with jam or stewed fruit.
Roll in a scroll; lay it in a long, tin loaf-pan with the lap
uppermost, and bake about 30 minutes in a moderately-quick
oven. Serve with Hard Sauce.
RICE AND PEACH PUDDING.
BAKED ROLY-POLY.


442
COOD-LlVWG.
light; add them to the butter and sugar, with all the in-
gredients. Beat well. Butter a pudding-dish; fill it not
more than f-full of the mixture, and bake in a moderately-
quick oven for 45 minutes. Serve hot or cold with a sauce
(see receipts).
MINUTE PUDDING.
I quart of milk, Butter, size of a hickory-nut,
1 pint of flour, or about, Pinch of salt,
2 eggs.
Beat the eggs well together; mix with these the flour and
enough cold milk to make a smooth batter. Put the re-
mainder of the milk in a saucepan with the butter and salt.
When it boils, stir in the flour and eggs; stir and boil for 5
minutes or more, until of the consistency of corn-mush.
Serve hot with sweetened milk. Or, pour in a dish, set away,
and serve icy cold, with Custard Sauce flavored with vanilla
(see receipt). Excellent for children's dinner.
BAKED BA TTER PUDDING.
16 tablespoons of sifted flour, teaspoon of salt,
I quart of milk, 4 eggs, the whites beaten to a stiff froth.
Stir into the milk the yolks of eggs well beaten; stir these
into the salt and flour. Then beat in the whites of eggs.
When perfectly free from lumps, bake in large patty-pans, or
in I shallow pudding-dish. The dish should be well heated
and buttered. Bake about 25 minutes in a very hot oven.
It should rise very high, and form a good, firm crust. The
length of time for baking depends very much upon the size
and depth of the dish, as well as upon the quality of the
oven; but observe, that the top must be a firm crust, or it
will fall too quickly. Serve immediately with Hard Sauce or
with Strawberry Sauce (see receipts).
CHERRY PUDDING.
2 eggs, Flour for stiff batter,
3 teaspoons of baking-powder, 1 cup of sweet milk,
Cherries.
Mix together all the ingredients to a stiff batter, stirring
the milk into the flour; then sLir in as many cherries as the


POTATO PUDDING.
443
batter will hold. Boil or steam 2 hours or more in a greased
mould, filling the mould not more than £-full, and cover-
ing ; or boil in a floured pudding-bag, leaving plenty of room
to swell. The pudding must boil without intermission or it
will be heavy. Serve with Hard Sauce or other (see receipts).
Any small fruit may be used in the same way.
COCOA-NUT PUDDING NO I.
I cocoa-nut, grated, Flaky Pie-Crust,
Milk of the cocoa-nut, I quart of milk,
5 eggs, 1 cUP 01 sugar,
I ounce of butter, 2 tablespoons of rose-water,
Pinch of salt.
Boil the milk and pour it upon the grated cocoa-nut and
its milk. Beat the sugar with the eggs. Add the above to
them; then add salt and flavorings. Stir. Bake in a but-
tered dish with an edge of pie-crust, 20 to 30 minutes. You
may substitute cream for the milk, and add 3 more eggs,
if preferred.
COCOA-NUT PUDDING NO. II.
I pound of grated cocoa-nut, 8 ounces of butter,
3 stale rusk or snftll sponge-cakes, 6 eggs,
8 ounces of powdered sugar, I gill of white wine.
Grate the cocoa-nut, which you have peeled and thrown into
cold water. Grate or roll the rusk or cakes. Beat to a cream
the butter and sugar. Add the wine. Beat the eggs, whites
and yolks together, until very light, and stir them gradually
into the butter and sugar in turn with the rusk and cocoa-
nut. Having beaten the whole together very hard, put it
into a buttered pudding-dish, and bake in a moderately-quick
oven 30 minutes. Delicious.
POTATO PUDDING.
8 ounces of potatoes, 4 ounces of butter,
2 stale sponge-cakes, grated, 5 eggs,
8 ounces of sugar, Rose-water and brandy, I gill, mixed,
Pinch of mace and cinnamon, Grated orange-peel,
Grated nutmeg, Yt gill sherry.
Peel and boil the potatoes. Mash through a colander.
While hot, mix in the butter, and beat light. Beat the eggs


Baked orange pudding no. it.
445
molasses, and ginger. Mix well. Pour into a buttered pud-
ding-dish. Bake in a very moderate oven 45 to 60 minutes.
OLD-FASHIONED INDIAN PUDDING.
I cup of Indian meal, 4 ounces of butter, melted,
4 eggs, beaten light, Sugar to taste,
I tablespoon of molasses, A few currants, well cleaned,
Peach- or rose-water, Cinnamon or orange-peel.
Mix the meal smooth in cold water; add the other ingredi-
ents. Flavor to taste. Butter 2 fire-proof pudding-dishes
(not deep). Pour in the mixture and bake 1 hour or more.
This quantity is sufficient for 2 puddings.
BAKED ORANGE PUDDING NO. I.
2 large oranges, 8 ounces of butter,
8 ounces of powdered sugar, 1 gill of mixed wine and brandy,
I stale small sponge-cake, 6 eggs.
Grate the rind and squeeze the juice of the oranges,
removing the pips. Rub the butter and sugar to a cream;
add the wine. Beat the whites and yolks of the eggs to-
gether very light; add them gradually to the mixture.
Have ready a buttered pudding-dish edged with Flaky Pie-
Crust or Good Plain Paste (see receipts) neatly notched.
The cake may be rolled and added to the mixture, but it
will make it a little less rich. Fill the pudding-dish with the
mixture, and bake in a moderately-quick oven for 30 minutes.
When cool, sift powdered sugar over the top and serve.
BAKED LEMON PUDDING NO. I.
Proceed exactly as above, using lemons instead of oranges,
Delicious.
BAKED ORANGE PUDDING NO. II.
8 ounces of sugar, 4 ounces of butter,
2 oranges, 6 eggs.
Grate the rind of the oranges and squeeze the juice.
Cream together butter and sugar; beat in the yolks of eggs


44<5
GOOD-LIVING.
one at a time; then add the orange rind and juice. Beat
the whites to a stiff froth. Have ready a deep pie-dish
lined with Flaky Pie-Crust or Good Plain Paste (see receipts).
Beat the whites into the batter with a few long, slow strokes.
Pour the mixture into the pie-dish, and bake in a moderately-
quick oven for 20 to 25 minutes.
BAKED LEMON PUDDING NO. II.
Proceed exactly as for Baked Orange Pudding No. II.,
using lemons instead of oranges.
BOILED ORANGE PUDDING.
4 ounces of macaroons, I pint of milk,
I gill of sugar, 4 eggs,
Grated rind of I orange, Juice of 2 oranges.
Soak the macaroons in the milk until soft. Beat the eggs
and sugar together until well mixed, then add to them the
milk, and beat until smooth. Add the orange-juice and rind.
Butter a pudding-mould; fill |-full of the mixture; cover
closely and put into a pot of boiling water. Boil without
interruption for I hour. Serve with Orange or other Pud-
ding Sauce (see receipts).
BOILED LEMON PUDDING.
Proceed as for Boiled Orange Pudding, substituting juice
and grated rind of I lemon. Serve with Lemon Sauce (see
receipt).
PLUM-PUDDING.
2 eggs, beaten, whites and yolks apart,
I teaspoon of ground cinnamon,
1 " " " allspice,
2 cups of bread-crumbs,
I cup of dark N. O. molasses,
I " "cleaned currants,
1 cup of flour,
1 " "milk,
I " "suet,
I gill of citron, sliced,
I cup of stoned raisins,
^ teaspoon Royal baking-powder.
Clean the Currants (see receipt). Wet the crumbs in the
milk, then add yolks and all other ingredients, straining the


AMHERST PVDDTNG.
447
molasses, and sifting together flour and baking-powder.
Add beaten whites last. Fill a well-greased pudding-mould
(or tin kettle with a cover) not more than f-full. Fit the
cover on tightly, and boil in a large pot of boiling water
without intermission for 3 hours and 30 minutes. When
ready to serve, put a sprig of holly in the top; pour a little
brandy over the pudding, and, at the moment of serving, set
fire to it. Serve with Wine or Brandy Sauce (see receipts).
ENGLISH PLUM-PUDDING.
I pound of stoned raisins, I pound of suet, chopped fine,
}i" "stale bread-crumbs, 4 ounces of brown sugar,
I lemon, grated rind, 4 " "sifted flour,
1 pound of currants, well-cleaned, y£ nutmeg, grated,
2 gills of brandy, 5 eggs,
8 ounces minced candied orange-peel.
Clean the currants (see receipt); stone the raisins. Mix
all the dry ingredients together. Beat together eggs and
brandy; pour them over the rest and mix thoroughly. Pack
in greased moulds or kettles; cover. Put into a pot of boil-
ing water and boil without intermission 6 hours. This will
make about 6 pounds. The day it is required for use, boil
again for 6 hours. When serving, pour brandy over the
pudding, set fire to it, and serve it while blazing. Serve with
Brandy Sauce.
AMHERST PUDDING.
I cup of suet, chopped fine, I cup of molasses, strained,
I " "milk, I gill of citron, sliced,
I " "raisins, stoned and chopped, I " "currants, well cleaned,
2% cups of sifted flour, Spices to taste,
I heaping teaspoon of baking-soda, I saltspoon of salt,
I heaping teaspoon of baking-powder.
Mix all together, adding last the flour sifted with the
baking-powder, and the soda dissolved in a few drops of
boiling water. Beat until very light. Grease a mould or tin
kettle ; fill not more than f-full of the mixture. Fasten the
cover on firmly. Have ready a large pot of boiling water;


GOOD-LIVING.
place the mould in this and boil without intermission for
4 hours and 30 minutes to 5 hours. If the boiling is checked,
the pudding will be heavy. Or, tie in a well-floured bag,
leaving plenty of room to swell, and boil about 4 hours.
Serve with Hard Sauce. The pudding may be also eaten
with molasses. If any is left cold the next day, it may be
sliced, fried brown in hot butter, and eaten with molasses for
luncheon. Recommended.
SUET PUDDING.
I small cup of suet, chopped fine,
I cup of molasses,
I cup of chopped and seeded raisins, I “ “sour milk,
I teaspoon of soda,
Ground spices to taste,
Flour for thick batter, about 3/2 cups.
Mix. Add last the teaspoon of soda dissolved in a few
drops of boiling water; beat well. Tie in a floured bag,
leaving room to swell to double its bulk. Put into a large
pot of boiling water and boil without intermission for 3 hours
and 30 minutes. Serve with Hard Sauce (see receipt) or
with molasses.
SPICE PUDDING.
I cup of molasses,
I gill of melted butter,
I “ “ milk,
I "" wine,
372 cups of sifted flour,
Pinch of salt,
I teaspoon of baking-soda,
I teaspoon of baking-powder,
“ ground cinnamon, I nutmeg, grated,
\z teaspoon of ground cloves.
Dissolve the soda in i tablespoonful of boiling water ; stir
it into the molasses ; add the melted butter, then the milk
and flour sifted with the baking-powder. Add salt, spices,
and wine. Beat until smooth. Grease a pudding-mould or
tin-kettle with a cover. Fill k-full. Cover. Set in a pot of
boiling water and boil without intermission for about 4
hours. Or, tie in a floured cloth, leaving room to swell, and
boil about 3 hours. Serve with Lemon Sauce (see receipt).


DATE PUDDING.
449
OLD-FASHIONED APPLE PUDDING.
4 large tart apples,
4 ounces of stale bread-crumbs,
1 teaspoon of ground cinnamon, 72 nutmeg, grated,
I saltspoon of salt,
4 eggs.
Pare and chop the apples fine; mix with the crumbs.
Beat whites and yolks of eggs apart until very light. Add to
the crumbs, yolks, salt, cinnamon, and nutmeg ; then stir in
the whites carefully. Mix. Boil in a well-greased mould, cov-
ered, for 3 hours. Serve hot, with Custard, Wine, or Lemon
Sauce (see receipts). For detailed directions for boiling, see
receipt for Amherst Pudding.
BOILED APPLE-DUMPLINGS.
I quart of sifted flour,
I teaspoonful of salt,
1 large tablespoon of butter or lard, 2 gills of milk,
2 heaping teaspoons of baking-powder, Apples.
Pare and core the apples. Have ready a pot with about
3 inches of water. Or, if you prefer to steam them, have
the pot -full of boiling water; place the steamer over it.
Now mix together the flour and butter or lard, then add
salt and baking-powder. Moisten with milk enough to
make a soft dough, which can be easily rolled out without
sticking. Roll out about ; an inch thick; cut out the
dumplings the size of a breakfast plate. Put i apple in
the centre of each piece of dough; fill the space of the core
with sugar and a little cinnamon, and draw the dough
neatly over the apple. To boil them, tie each in a floured
cloth, leaving plenty of room to swell; put them into the
kettle of boiling water, and boil 30 minutes without ceasing.
Or, set on a tin plate over the steamer and cook 40 minutes.
Serve hot with Hard Sauce (see receipt).
FIG PUDDING.
Proceed as for Amherst Pudding, substituting 1 pound of
figs cut in pieces for the raisins and currants.
DATE PUDDING.
Proceed as for Amherst Pudding, substituting 1 pound of
dates, stoned and cut in pieces, for the raisins and currants.



PUDDING SAUCES.
WHIPPED-CREAM SAUCE.
I pint of Whipped Cream (see receipt), Whites of 2 or 3 eggs,
Powdered sugar, Vanilla, wine or rum.
Flavor the whipped cream with vanilla, rum, or wine.
Sweeten to taste with powdered sugar. Beat the whites of
eggs to a very stiff froth; then beat all together. Serve
with Plum-Pudding Glace, Blanc-Mange, etc., etc,
GOLDEN SAUCE.
Yolks of 2 eggs, Lemon-juice,
I whole egg, 1 gill of sugar,
1 gill of sherry.
Beat the eggs with a scant gill of soft sugar in a small
saucepan until creamy. Then set the saucepan in a kettle
of boiling water on the fire. Beat the eggs quickly and
steadily while you pour in very gradually 1 gill of sherry.
Stir until the sauce thickens to a cream; then remove from
the fire; add a squeeze of lemon-juice strained, and serve
hot.
VELVET SAUCE.
^ cup of butter, 1 gill of boiling water,
1 heaping teaspoon of corn-starch, 1}4 cups of powdered sugar.
Beat the butter to a cream. Add the sugar and con-
tinue to beat for 2 or 3 minutes. When the water boils,
stir in the corn-starch blended with a very little cold water.
Stir and boil 2 or 3 minutes, until transparent. Just before
450


CUSTARD SAUCE.
451
serving, stir this into the butter and sugar, and flavor with
brandy, rum, maraschino, lemon-juice, or extract of vanilla.
Serve hot.
SILVER SAUCE.
3^ cups of water, Flavoring,
Butter the size of a walnut, I cup of sugar,
I tablespoon of corn-starch.
When the water boils, stir in corn-starch blended with a
very little cold water. Add the sugar and stir constantly
until the corn-starch has boiled about 3 minutes, until trans-
parent. If cinnamon-stick or lemon-peel are used for flavor-
ing, they should boil in the sauce at the same time. Remove
the saucepan; add- butter and flavoring to taste. Strain out
the peel or cinnamon-stick, and serve hot.
STRA WBERR Y SA UCE.
I gill of butter, 2 gills of sugar (1 cup),
1 cup of ripe strawberries, mashed, I white of egg.
Cream together butter and sugar; add the white of egg
beaten to a very stiff froth and the strawberries thoroughly
mashed. When well beaten together, serve cold.
CARAMEL SAUCE.
6 ounces of granulated sugar, 2 cloves,
I stick of cinnamon, 2 gills of boiling water,
Lemon-peel.
Put these together on the fire and boil 10 minutes. To
make the caramel, put 2 ounces of granulated sugar dissolved
in 1 tablespoonful of boiling water on a moderate fire and
boil 10 minutes, stirring until it becomes light brown. Strain
the sauce over the caramel; boil up once. Remove from
the fire; add 3 tablespoonfuls of sherry, and serve hot.
CUSTARD SAUCE.
I pint of new milk, 1 gill of sugar,
3 eggs, Flavoring.
Boil the milk. Beat eggs and sugar together in a bowl to
a cream. Pour the boiling milk v~•y slowly upon the eggs,


452
GOOD-UVING.
stirring very briskly. When thoroughly mixed, strain it
back into the saucepan; set this over boiling water on the
fire and stir until it thickens, but do not boil or it will curdle.
Flavor to taste. Serve very cold.
BRANDY SAUCE.
4 tablespoonfuls of butter, I gill of brandy,
I cup of powdered sugar, I " " boiling water,
Whites of 2 eggs.
Cream together butter and sugar. Beat until very light.
Add the whites I by I, beating steadily. When required,
add the brandy and boiling water; set the bowl in boiling
water (bain marie) over the fire and stir until creamy. Serve
hot.
HARD SAUCE.
cup of butter, Whites of 2 eggs,
I teaspoon of vanilla, I cup of powdered sugar,
I tablespoon of brandy or rum.
Beat the butter and sugar to a cream. Add the whites of
eggs 1 by 1, and beat until very light, then add by degrees
the flavorings, beating steadily. Arrange neatly in a small
mound; sprinkle with grated nutmeg, and set in the ice-box
to harden.
PLAIN HARD SA UCE.
May be made with butter and sugar alone, in above pro-
portions,- using "A" sugar in preference. Add I tablespoon-
ful of rum or lemon-juice and a little nutmeg. Set away on
the ice to harden.
LEMON SA UCE.
I tablespoon of corn-starch, I gill of sugar,
I " "butter, I egg,
I pint of boiling water, I lemon.
Beat together in a bowl the corn-starch, egg, butter, and
sugar. When thoroughly mixed, pour slowty over them the
boiling water, stirring steadily; set on the fire over a sauce-


SYRUP.
453
pan of boiling water, and stir until thick (about 3 minutes)
Taste to see if the corn-starch is sufficiently cooked. Re-
move from the fire and add the juice and grated rind of 1
lemon. Serve hot. Or, blend the corn-starch with a little
cold water, stir it into the boiling water, and continue to
stir until thick and transparent. Stir in the lemon-rind and
the butter and sugar creamed together. Remove from the
fire, and, while boiling, mix it into the egg and lemon-juice.
Strain into a sauce-boat and serve hot.
MARYLAND WINE SAUCE.
4 tablespoons of brown sugar, gill of wine,
4 ounces of butter, Yolks of 2 eggs.
Beat together yolks, sugar, and butter. When thoroughly
mixed, set over boiling water on the fire; add by degrees
the wine, and stir until as thick and smooth as rich cream.
Serve hot.
SYRUP FOR GRIDDLE-CAKES.
2 tablespoons of water, 2 cups of brown sugar,
I even tablespoon of butter.
Boil 5 minutes. Use cold.
SYRUP.
2 pounds of granulated sugar, White of I egg,
I pint of fresh water.
Put the sugar and water into a china-lined saucepan. Stir
in the beaten white of egg. Now set the saucepan on the
fire. When it begins to boil, watch that it does not rise too
fast, but it must bubble and froth in order to clear. When
it has boiled about 5 minutes, draw it to the side of the
range; let the froth subside, then skim it thoroughly, and it
is ready for use.



DESSERTS: JELLIES, CREAMS, FRITTERS, CUS-
TARDS, ETC.
BA VARIAN CREAM.
BAVAROISE.
I quart of cream,
box of Cox's gelatine,
I gill of cold water,
2 tablespoons of sugar,
4 eggs, y°lks only,
Vanilla or rum.
First of all, put I pint of cream on the ice for several
hours, till it becomes thoroughly cold. Soak the gelatine in
the cold water for 2 hours. Put 1 pint of cream in the
farina-kettle and bring it to a boil with the sugar. When it
comes to a boil, pour it over the gelatine. Stir until the
gelatine is dissolved, returning the cream to the fire if neces-
sary. Set aside to cool. Beat the yolks of eggs to a cream.
When the cream is cool enough, stir in the eggs briskly;
when well mixed, strain into a bowl; add vanilla or rum to
taste and set away on the ice. Now take the other pint of
cream which has been on the ice all this time; set it in a
bowl in a pan of cracked ice, and, with a Dover egg-beater,
whip it to a stiff froth, skimming the froth, as it rises, into a
second cold bowl. (N. B.—Keep all very cold, and you will
save both time and trouble.) When the boiled cream is quite
cold and has begun to thicken, stir it over ice until perfectly
smooth; then stir into it the whipped cream with as few
strokes as possible to mix well. Rinse 2 moulds, or 1 large
one, with cold water. Fill with the mixture and set away to
harden. When firm, turn it out and serve with or without
a pitcher of cream, or with Whipped-Cream Sauce (see re-
ceipt). This is not at all difficult to make, though a little
tedious. Delicious.
454


COFFEE BAVARIAN' CREAM.
455
CHOCOLA TE BA VARIAN CREAM.
BAVAROISE AU CHOCOLAT.
Proceed as directed for Bavarian Cream, adding to the
boiling cream 2 ounces of Maillard's or Huyler's best choco-
late, grated and blended with 1 or 2 teaspoons of boiling
milk.
STRA WBERRYBA VARIAN CREAM.
BAVAROISE AUX FRAISES.
Put I pint of milk on the ice for some time, to get it
thoroughly cold.
Stem 2$- pounds of ripe berries. Mash them through a
colander. Add 6 ounces of powdered sugar to the juice.
Soak the gelatine in cold water 2 hours. When the sugar is
dissolved, add the gelatine. Stir until dissolved, as directed
in receipt for Bavarian Cream. Omit the pint of boiled
cream and the egg. The juice of the berries and the gela-
tine should measure a full pint; if not, a little boiling water
may be added, but it must be very little. Set away on the
ice while you beat the cream as directed in Bavarian Cream.
Finish as before.
Raspberry Bavarian Cream may be made exactly as above.
COFFEE BA VARIAN CREAM.
BAVAROISE AU CAFE.
3 tablespoons of ground Mocha, I pint of new milk,
4 eggs, yolks only, I cup of sugar,
yi box of Cox's gelatine, % " " cold water,
I pint of whipped cream.
Put the cream on the ice for some time, to get it thor-
oughly cold.
Throw the freshly-ground coffee into the boiling milk;
cover and stand on the corner of the range for 15 minutes.
Then add the sugar; stir until dissolved. Remove from
the fire and stir it into the well-beaten yolks. Stir steadily.


CHARLOTTE RUSSE .NO I.
457
Add sherry and vanilla. Whip the cream (which has been
on the ice for hours) to a stiff froth, over a pan of ice. Stir
it carefully into the meringue. Serve in small custard
glasses, very cold. You may add to the above a few sweet
almonds, blanched and chopped very fine. Very simple for
summer dessert.
WHIPPED CREAM.
CREME FOUETTEE.
The secret of whipping cream easily is, first of all, to have
good cream, and then to set it on the ice for several hours
before it is required. When that time arrives, sweeten the
cream to taste; add a few drops of Jamaica rum; set the
bowl in a pan of cracked ice. Have beside you a second
bowl; beat the cream with a Dover egg-beater. As the
froth rises, remove it to the second bowl. If the whip
is required to be very stiff indeed, remove the froth to a
sieve, and, as the unbeaten cream drains from it, that can be
returned to the bowl and beaten again.
If the cream itself is not very thick, and you are in doubt
about it, dissolve \ of an ounce of gelatine in a very little cold
milk for 1 hour, then place the cup in boiling water on the fire,
and stir until the gelatine dissolves. When this is cold, but
not set, it can be whipped into the cream prepared as above.
In this way the whip will be quite firm after setting it on the
ice for I or 2 hours.
CHARLOTTE RUSSE NO. I.
I quart of sweet cream. Whites of 10 eggs,
Vanilla to taste, I pound of powdered sugar,
% box of gelatine (Cox's).
Dissolve the gelatine in £ a pint of cold water. Soak 2
hours; pour over it £ a pint of boiling water; set over the
fire for a minute to scald; stir and strain. Set away to cool.
Beat the sugar and cream, removing to another bowl, on ice,
the froth as it rises. When the gelatine is cold, beat it and


458
GOOD-LIVING.
the whites of eggs to a stiff froth, and add these to the
cream. Rinse out moulds with cold water, and line them
with cake (see Charlotte Russe Cake, or Layer Sponge);
fill them with the cream, and set away in a cold place until
firm. The above may also be made with the whites of 6 eggs
to the quart of cream. When stiff, turn it out on a cut paper,
and serve.
CHARLOTTE RUSSE NO. II.
% ounce of gelatine (Cox's), I cup of milk,
I gill of sugar, I beaten egg,
Small pinch of salt, I pint of cream,
I small teaspoon of vanilla, Charlotte Russe Cake.
Dissolve the gelatine in a little cold water. Heat the
milk. When nearly boiling, stir in the sugar and beaten
egg, together with the salt. Stir briskly. Add the vanilla
and gelatine. Remove from the fire, strain through a sieve,
and set away to cool. Whip the Cream as directed (see re-
ceipt), removing the froth to a sieve. When the milk is
cold, mix all lightly and quickly together, and pour into
a mould which has been lined with cake (see receipt). Set
it immediately on the ice, and, when firm, turn out on a cut
paper, and serve.
CHARLOTTE PARISIENNE.
yi box of Cox's gelatine, 4 ounces of macaroons,
I cup of grated cocoa-nut, 1 quart of cream,
4 ounces of stale lady-fingers, 4 eggs,
2 tablespoons of sugar.
Cover the gelatine with a little cold water and let it soak
for 1 to 2 hours. Have the cream thoroughly chilled. Whip
I pint of it (see Whipped Cream) and set away on the ice
until required. Bring the remaining pint of cream to a boil
in the farina-kettle. Beat together eggs and sugar until well
mixed. When the cream boils, pour a little of it upon the
eggs, stirring briskly ; pour this in turn back into the kettle


ORANGE CREAM.
459
and stir constantly for about 1 minute, until it thickens. Dc
not let it boil again, or it will curdle. Stir in the gelatine.
Remove from the fire; strain into a bowl; add the powdered
macaroons and lady-fingers, the cocoa-nut, and vanilla to
taste. Stand aside until cold and just beginning to set.
Then place the bowl in a pan of cracked ice, and stir until
smooth and thick; then beat in the whipped cream. Mix
evenly with as few strokes as possible. Rinse out a mould
with cold water. Fill it with the mixture and set away on
the ice. When firm, turn out on a cut paper and serve
immediately.
Or, hollow out a stale,. round sponge-cake, leaving the
bottom and sides \ an inch thick. Fill with the mixture
and set away to harden. Serve with sweetened cream or
Custard Sauce, very cold.
Soak the gelatine I hour in £ a gill of cold milk. Add the
boiling coffee and the sugar. Stir and dissolve. Place it
over boiling water on the fire if not quite melted, and stir
until dissolved. Remove from the fire. When cool, stir in
the cream. Rinse out a mould with cold water. Strain the
mixture into it, and set away on the ice to harden. Turn
out on a cut paper and serve immediately.
COFFEE CREAM.
GELEE AU CAFE\
% ounce of Cox's gelatine,
I gill of strong coffee,
I gill of sugar,
3 gills of cream.
ORANGE CREAM.
gel£e A la creme d'orange.
3 gills of cream,
2" "sugar,
I gill of orange-juice,
Yolks of 2 eggs,
% ounce of Cox's gelatine.
Grated rind of I orange,
% gill of cold water."
Soak the gelatine 2 hours in \ a gill of cold water. Mean-
while soak the orange-rind in the orange-juice. Then melt


460
GOOD-LIVING.
the gelatine by setting the bowl over boiling water on the
fire. Add the orange-juice. When quite hot and the gela-
tine is dissolved, remove it from the fire and add carefully
the yolk beaten with the sugar. Stir briskly. Place it again
on the fire over hot water and stir until it thickens; but do
not let it boil, or it will curdle. Then remove; stir in the
cream. Strain the jelly into a mould which has been rinsed
with cold water. Set away on the ice to harden; turn out
on a cut paper; serve very cold with cream.
VELVET CREAM.
CREME VELOUTEE.
2 gills of white wine, Juice of 1 lemon,
^ box of Cox's gelatine. Sugar to taste,
I pint of cream.
Soak the gelatine in the wine for 2 hours. Set it over
boiling water on the fire and stir until it dissolves, but do
not let it boil. Then dissolve the sugar with the gelatine.
Remove from the fire ; when cool, add the lemon-juice, then
the cream. Stir until quite cold. Rinse out a mould with
cold water. Strain the cream into it, and set away on the ice
to harden. Serve with plain or whipped cream.
SPANISH CREAM.
yi box of Cox's gelatine, 5 eggs,
I gill of soft sugar, Iyi pints of milk,
I teaspoon of vanilla, I gill of powdered sugar.
Cover the gelatine with cold milk or water, using no more
than is necessary. Soak from I to 2 hours. Bring the milk
to a boil. Beat the yolks and soft sugar together in a bowl
until light; pour a little of the boiling milk upon the eggs
and sugar. Beat well together; then in turn pour the eggs
into the milk which is on the fire. Turn the gelatine into the
milk and stir over boiling water until the gelatine dissolves
and the eggs begin to thicken slightly. Do not let it boil or
the eggs will curdle. Remove from the fire ; strain ; add the


SNOW PUDDING.
461
vanilla. Rinse out a fancy mould with cold water; pour the
mixture into it. Set away on the ice until firm. When
ready to serve, beat the whites of eggs to a foam; add the
powdered sugar gradually, and beat until stiff and glossy.
Turn out the cream on a cut paper; heap the meringue
around it, and serve very cold.
GELATINE PUDDING.
4 eggs* 1 P'n' of milk,
y£ box of Cox's gelatine, Sugar to taste,
Vanilla, }( cup of boiling water (1l4 gills).
Bring the milk to a boil. Beat in a bowl the yolks of
eggs with about 2 level tablespoonfuls of sugar. When the
milk boils, stir it carefully into the eggs; sweeten to taste.
Put the eggs and milk into a saucepan over boiling water,
and stir steadily until slightly thickened; but do not boil, or
the eggs will curdle. Set aside to cool. Meanwhile, soak
the gelatine in about 1 gill of cold water for 2 hours; pour
over it the boiling water; stir until dissolved; strain and
set aside until cold and just about to set. When the cus-
tard, flavored to taste with vanilla, is cold, beat the whites
of eggs and gelatine first separately, then together, to a stiff
froth. Add these to the custard and beat well. Rinse out
a mould with cold water; pour in the mixture, and set away
to harden. It will settle in 3 layers, making a dessert which
is pleasing to both eye and palate. Turn out of the mould
on a cut paper, and serve very cold.
SNOW PUDDING.
]^ box of Cox's gelatine. Juice of one lemon,
1 cup of sugar, Slice of lemon-rind,
2 whites of eggs, y£ pint of boiling water,
y£ pint of cold water, y£ " "wine.
Put the gelatine to soak in the cold water for 1 hour with
a piece of lemon-rind. Then pour over it the boiling water;
set it on the fire and stir until dissolved. Add the sugar,
lemon-juice, and wine. When the sugar is all melted,


4^2
GOOD-LIVING.
strain the jelly into a bowl, and set away in a cool place.
The liquid should measure I full pint. In summer, it is
better to make it a little scant measure, as it does not
stiffen as well. When the jelly is cool, beat the whites oi
eggs to a very stiff froth. Fill your quart mould with cold
water, and let it stand while the pudding is being prepared.
As soon as the jelly is set a little firm, beat it smooth with
a Dover egg-beater; then beat into it the whites of eggs.
In summer it is best to stand the bowl in ice while you are
beating. When all is beaten smoothly together, throw the
cold water out of the mould; fill it with the mixture, and
set in a cold place to harden. When firm, turn it out and
serve either with Whipped-Cream Sauce, or with a Custard
Sauce, very cold. If you do not use wine, use the juice of
2 lemons, and make up the necessary amount of liquid with
boiling water. Excellent.
Prepare a cream blanc-mange or Velvet Cream (see re-
ceipt). Before it is stiff, put a little into a mould which
has been rinsed in cold water; let it run all over to coat
the surface thinly; ornament it with candied cherries,
etc. Fill the mould loosely with firm, preserved candied
or brandied fruits, macaroons, stale sponge-cake soaked in
wine, and a little citron sliced very thin. Then fill the
mould slowly and carefully with the blanc-mange, which
should be now as thick as batter; stand it on the ice for
several hours, until perfectly firm; then turn it out on a cut
paper, and serve with cream.
COLD CABINET PUDDING.
GELBE SPEISE.
8 ounces of sugar, I
2 " "citron, sliced thin, I
I large lemon, juice and grated rind, 2
5 whites of eggs, g
I pint of boiling water,
1 ounce of gelatine,
2 ounces of stoned raisins,
g yolks of eggs.
I quart of cold water.
Soak the gelatine for 1 hour in I quart of cold water. See
that it is kept covered by the water. Beat the yolks of


ORANGE JELLY IN BASKETS.
463
eggs with the juice and grated rind of lemon and the sugar.
Strain the gelatine from the water, and put it into a
2-quart saucepan. Pour over this 1 pint of boiling water.
Stir until dissolved. Pour \ of this over the eggs and
sugar; stir briskly; then stir this back into the pail con-
taining the remaining half of the gelatine, stirring very
quickly all the time. Set the pail over boiling water on the
fire and stir until it becomes as thick as boiled custard. Do
not boil, or it will curdle. Remove and set in a cold place
until as thick as batter. Beat the whites to a stiff froth.
Add the fruit to the jelly; mix; then add the whites.
Beat thoroughly together with as few strokes as possible.
Rinse out 2 pint-moulds with cold water; fill with the
mixture, and set away on the ice to harden. Turn out on
cut paper, and serve very cold with cream or Whipped-
Cream Sauce (see receipt).
Squeeze the oranges, which should be fine, large Floridas;
extract every drop of juice. Put a boxful of gelatine, with
enough of the juice to cover it well, to soak for 1 hour or
more. Now set the bowl in boiling water and stir until the
gelatine is dissolved. Add the rest of the juice; sweeten to
taste. Then add a wine-glass of best curacoa. Strain the
jelly through a very fine strainer or coarse muslin, and set to
harden in a mould which has been rinsed out with cold
water. There should be 1 quart and 1 pint of jelly in all.
If the oranges have not yielded all the juice required, make
up the quantity of liquid by adding boiling water. This
jelly is not crystal-clear, but is delicious. If you can take
the time and trouble, it is much prettier to serve the jelly in
orange-baskets made as follows:
Before making the jelly, cut your oranges in this way:
have a very sharp knife with which make a cut across the
ORANGE JELLY IN BASKETS.
gelee A l'orange.
12 oranges,
I gill of curacoa,
I box of Cox's gelatine,
Sugar to taste.


464
GOOD-LIVING.
stem end of the orange, just escaping the hole of the stem,
and going ^-way through the fruit; \ an inch from this,
make a second cut the same depth; this will make the
handle, so that the stem-hole must not appear in it, or in-
deed anywhere on the basket. Now turn the fruit, and
make an incision at right angles to the cut made for the han-
dle, which 2 cuts must join, thus detaching a piece like a
small quarter of the orange. Turn the fruit to the opposite
side and do the same, being careful that the 2 side-cuts are
exactly on a level. This makes the basket. Now, with a
sharp knife, carefully cut the fruit from the inner-side of the
handle and basket, taking the greatest care not to pierce the
skin anywhere. Loosen it with a teaspoon and scoop out
fruit, juice, seeds, and all the pithy, white pulp that can be
safely scraped away. Save every drop of the juice forthejelly
as first directed. The quantity of jelly given in the receipt
should fill the 12 baskets quite full, leaving a little over, which
put on a shallow dish and set away to harden with the rest.
When firm, tie colored bows of fresh ribbon on the handles
of the baskets; dish them on a pretty, round dish; crumb
up with a fork the extra jelly in the shallow dish, and pile it
around and between the baskets. This makes really such a
pretty and delicious dessert, at so little expense, that if you
have time to give to it, it will repay you for the trouble. At
the pastry-cook's, you will pay $3.50 to $4.00 a dozen for
these, which, made at home, and quite as good, will not cost
more than 75 cents, in winter, when oranges are plentiful.
N. B.—Use pure orange-juice for the jelly as far as possi-
ble, adding boiling water only if absolutely necessary.
Soak the gelatine in the cold water for 2 hours. Cut a
few strips of lemon-rind; put these to soak with the gela-
LEMON JELLY.
gelee au c1tron.
1 ounce of Cox's gelatine,
5 large lemons, juice only,
2 cups of soft sugar, or to taste,
2 gills of cold water.
White and shell of I egg,
\yi pints of boiling water.


wine jelly.
465
tine. Now pour the boiling water on the gelatine; add
sugar, lemon-juice, arid white of egg, slightly beaten, also
the shell, crushed. Let it boil briskly for 3 minutes; then
set the kettle on the hearth for 5 minutes. Skim. Pass
through a jelly-bag, once or twice, until sufficiently clear.
Rinse out a large mould with cold water; fill with the jelly
and set in a cold place to harden. Turn out on a cut paper
and serve with or without Custard Sauce (see receipt).
PLUM-PUDDING MADE OVER.
Line a Charlotte-Russe mould with slices of cold Plum-
Pudding or Wedding Cake, fitted closely together. Fill the
centre with Gelatine Pudding or Velvet Cream (see receipts).
Set in a cold place to harden. When firm, turn out and
serve with a cold Custard or Brandy Sauce (see receipts),
poured around.
WINE JELLY.
gelee au v1n de madere.
1 box of Cox's gelatine, I pint of cold water,
I pint of sherry, with a little brandy, 3 lemons, juice and peel,
1 ^ pounds of soft sugar, 1 quart of boiling water,
2 whites of eggs, well beaten, 2 shells of eggs, crushed,
1 small stick of cinnamon, about 2 inches long.
Soak the gelatine in cold water for 1 hour or more. Then
pour over it the boiling water. Add*eggs, shells, sugar,
lemon-juice, and the yellow part of the rind, and cinnamon.
Bring to a boil. Let it boil 3 minutes without stirring, then
set it on the hearth for 5 minutes. Skim. Add the wine,
which should be perfectly clear. Pass all through a jelly-bag
once, or until clear. Rinse out moulds with cold water.
Fill with the jelly and set away in a cold place to harden.
Champagne, brandy, madeira, maraschino, rum, or kirsch
may be added, in combination or separately, to the above, if
the quantity of wine does not exceed the proportions set
30


466
GOOD-LIVING.
down. In summer, less water should be used, as the jelly
does not harden so easily: the quantity of liquid should then
measure 3 pints in all.
FANCY JELL Y.
GELEE FANTAISIE.
1 box of Cox's gelatine, Juice of 2 lemons,
2 gills of sherry, """ oranges,
2 ""cold water, I pound of sugar,
I gill of brandy, I quart of boiling water.
Cover the gelatine with the cold water and soak I hour or
more. Add sugar and boiling water. Set over the fire and
stir until sugar and gelatine are dissolved. Add lemon- and
orange-juice, sherry, and brandy. Rinse out a mould with
cold water. Fill it with jelly, strained through a jelly-bag or
fine sieve. Set away to harden. The jelly will not be per-
fectly clear on account of the fruit-juice, but the excellence
of its flavor will more than compensate for its slight cloudi-
ness.
N. B.—In summer lessen the quantity of cold water, as the
weather will prevent its hardening as well as in winter. The
'liquid should in this case measure 3 pints in all.
MACEDOINE OF FRUIT.
MACEDOINE DE FRUITS.
Make very clear*Wine Jelly (see receipt). Champagne is
recommended for the jelly. Have ready either small fresh
fruits, such as strawberries, raspberries, cherries, sliced apri-
cots or peaches, or sections of oranges skinned and seeded;
or use preserved or brandied fruits—these last preferably.
Rinse out the mould in cold water. Pour in jelly to the
depth of £ an inch. Set on the ice to harden. Keep the
rest of the jelly cool, but where it will not harden. When
the jelly in the mould is set, lay in some fruit, neatly and
tastefully; pour over this only just enough jelly to barely


tipsy Cake.
467
cover (any more will make the fruit float). Set away again
to harden. Repeat this process until the mould is filled. If
preferred, alternate with layers of plain jelly. When full,
set away for several hours to harden well. If there is any
plain jelly left, set it aside, and when it is stiffening, beat it
to a froth and serve around the Macedoine. Or set it to
harden in shallow dishes, and, when ready for use, crumb it
with a fork and heap it around the base of the Macedoine
when ready to serve, turned out on a dish. This adds
greatly to the effect of this very pretty dessert.
PINE-APPLE SNOW.
NEIGE A L*ANANAS.
4 whites of eggs, 4 tablespoons of powdered sugar,
I pint of cream, whipped, 1 pine-apple.
Pare, remove the eyes, and grate the pine-apple. Put the
pulp upon a sieve to drain. Mix the snow as directed in
receipt for Snow Cream. When all is ready and the cream
whipped very stiff, beat in the pine-apple pulp, adding as
much as the cream and meringue will hold without becoming
too soft. Serve very cold in custard glasses.
TRIFLE.
Cream, Sherry,
Raspberry-jam, Cake.
Put I layer of stale cake, Sponge or Layer Cake No. I. or
No. II. (see receipts) in the bottom of a round dish; spread
it over with a thick layer of raspberry- or strawberry-jam
or jelly; baste it, by the spoonful, with sherry until the cake
will absorb no more. Beat about 1 pint of rich cream to a
very stiff froth (see receipt). Heap this over the cake, and
decorate to taste. Very simple and delicious.
TIPSY CAKE.
PAN BORACHO.
Prepare the stale cake as above with jam and wine. Make
about I pint of rich Custard (see receipt), and pour it over


468
Goob-LiviNC.
the cake. Reserve 2 of the whites of egg from the custard
and beat them to a stiff froth; a little jelly may be beaten
through the whites when they are stiff. Heap this over the
custard, and serve very cold. Or, serve in individual cus-
tard-glasses. Delicious.
ITALIAN CUSTARD.
CREME ITALIENNE.
Allow 1 egg to each person. Beat the yolks to a cream;
add sugar and lemon-juice to taste, beating all the while.
The eggs should thicken like cream. Put this into custard-
glasses. Beat the whites to a stiff froth. When perfectly
stiff, whip in a little currant-jelly, and beat until evenly col-
ored. Heap this upon the custard in the glasses. Set in
the ice-box, and serve very cold. Delicious.
BOILED CUSTARD.
CREME.
I quart of new milk, 5 eggs,
1% tablespoons of sugar, Flavoring to taste.
Small pinch of salt,
Put the milk on the fire in a farina-kettle. Beat the eggs
together in a bowl with the sugar and salt, until creamy.
When the milk is boiling, pour it by degrees into the eggs
and sugar, very gradually, stirring briskly all the time.
Strain this back into the farina-kettle; set it again on the
fire where it will heat, but not boil, or it will curdle. Stir
constantly until it thickens. Remove from the fire, and add
flavoring to taste. Set away to cool. The only danger in
making boiled custard is that it may curdle. If the above
directions are strictly observed, and new milk used for the
purpose, it will not curdle. Or, the custard may be made
with yolks only, allowing 6 to the quart of milk. It must
be stirred longer over the fire, as it will thicken more slowly.
In this latter case, the whites of eggs may be used for Angel
Cake, etc., etc. (see receipts).


CARAMEL CUSTARD.
469
CREME BACHIQUE.
I pint of good white wine, 7 or 8 yolks of eggs.
Lemon-peel or stick-cinnamon, Sugar to taste.
Put the wine, lemon-peel, or cinnamon, and sugar (about I
gill) into a saucepan. Bring it slowly to a boil. Beat the
yolks of eggs to a cream. When the wine boils, remove it
and pour gently upon the yolks, stirring briskly all the time.
Add more sugar if required. Have ready small custard-
cups in a baking-pan. Strain the custard into the cups.
Pour boiling water into the pan to about half the height of
the cups, and bake in a moderately-quick oven until set,
from 10 to 12 minutes. Do not let them harden too much.
Serve very cold.
BAKED COFFEE CUSTARD.
CREME AU CAFE.
I quart of new milk, 6 eggs,
3 heaping tablespoons of ground coffee, Sugar to taste.
Use, if you can, Mocha and Java coffees mixed. Grind
the coffee. Put it into a saucepan with the milk; bring it
to boiling point; then set it aside on the range and let it
steep for about 15 minutes, covered. Meanwhile, break the
eggs into a bowl and beat enough to mix. Add about 3
tablespoonfuls of sugar, and beat well together. Bring the
coffee and milk once more to a boil and strain it, boiling,
into the bowl of eggs, stirring briskly. Sweeten to taste.
Have ready 12 small custard-cups in a baking-pan. Strain
the custard into the cups. Fill the pan with boiling water
to half the height of the custard-cups. Bake in a moder-
ately-quick oven IO to 12 minutes, until the custard is just
set; do not let it bake hard. It will become firmer as it
cools.
CARAMEL CUSTARD.
CREME AU CARAMEL.
I pint of brown sugar, 3 pints of milk,
7 eggs
Melt the sugar, until liquid, in a frying-pan, then add it
slowly to the boiling milk, stirring constantly. Beat the


GOOD-LIVING.
eggs in a bowl. Stir the boiling milk into them by degrees,
stirring briskly all the while. Have ready small custard-cups
in a baking-pan. Strain the custard into the cups. Fill the
pan with boiling water to half the height of the cups; put
it into a moderately-quick oven for 10 to 12 minutes, until
set, but not hard. It will grow firmer as it cools. Serve
very cold.
CHOCOLATE AND OTHER BAKED CUSTARDS.
CREME AU CHOCOLAT, ETC.
Proceed exactly as directed for Coffee Custard, using, in-
stead, vanilla or other flavoring to taste. If chocolate i;
used, allow about 2 ounces of Maillard's or Huyler's best to
I quart of milk. Dissolve the chocolate in the milk, and
proceed as directed, using 12 small cups or 1 large dish.
COLD CUSTARD OR JUNKET.
I quart of new milk, Sugar to taste,
I tablespoon of rennet.
Heat the milk to blood-heat, but do not boil. Have ready
in a glass bowl the rennet and sugar. When the milk is
warm, not scalding, pour it into the bowl, stirring only just
enough to mix. Grate nutmeg over the top, and set in a
cool place until the milk becomes firm. Serve very cold.
Whey for the use of invalids may be made in like manner,
using a little more rennet. When it has stood long enough,
the curd will separate and the whey can be drained off. A
little sherry or vanilla may be added to the above as
flavoring.
SLIP.
The same as Junket, flavored with Jamaica rum. Serve
very cold with a pitcher of cream.


COCOA-NUT CREAM BLANCMANGE. tfl
CHOCOLATE BLANC-MANGE.
I quart of new milk,
4 heaping tablespoons of corn-starch,
Sugar to taste,
2 ounces of grated chocolate,
I teaspoon of vanilla.
When the milk has come to a boil, pour it into a bowl
over the grated chocolate; when dissolved, return to the fire
and stir smooth. Measure the corn-starch into a small bowl;
pour a little cold water on it and rub until absolutely smooth,
adding just enough cold water to make it pour easily. When
the milk boils, pour in the corn-starch and stir constantly
until it thickens and cooks thoroughly, 4 or 5 minutes.
Taste to see that the corn-starch is perfectly smooth and
cooked; if not, stir and boil longer. Remove from the
fire; stir in enough sugar to make it very sweet, and vanilla
to taste. The yolks of 2 eggs may be added if liked, but
are not necessary. Rinse a 3-pint mould with cold water;
drain and pour in the mixture, which should be quite thick.
Set away for several hours in a cold place until firm. Serve
with good cream or cold Custard Sauce (see receipt). The
blanc-mange should be very firm when turned out. If made
as above, it should be perfectly smooth and free from lumps.
Bring the milk to a boil. Measure 4 level tablespoonfuls
of corn-starch; blend perfectly smooth with a little cold
milk; when the milk boils, stir in the corn-starch ; stir and boil
until it thickens, 3 to 5 minutes. Taste, to see that the corn-
starch is perfectly smooth. Beat the whites of the eggs to a
stiff froth. Add the sugar to the corn-starch, then the whites
of eggs, and beat well over the fire for 3 minutes, but do not
boil or it will curdle. Add the cocoa-nut and vanilla.
Rinse out a mould with cold water; pour in the mixture
and set away on the ice to harden. Serve with Custard
COCOA-NUT CREAM BLANC-MANGE.
2 cups of grated cocoa-nut,
I teaspoon of vanilla,
4 eggs,
4 tablespoons of corn-starch,
1 pint of milk,
I gill of soft sugar.


472
GOOD-LIVING.
Sauce made of the yolks of the eggs and flavored with
vanilla.
N. B.—If the milk is not quite thick enough, before add-
ing sugar and eggs, stir in a little more corn-starch, blended
as above.
Bring the milk to a boil in a farina-kettle. Blend the
corn-starch with a little cold milk, and, when the milk in the
kettle boils, stir in the corn-starch. Stir without intermission
until it thickens, about 5 minutes. Taste to see that the
corn-starch is perfectly smooth; if not, boil a little longer.
Remove from the fire; stir in the sugar, salt, and flavoring.
Rinse out a mould with cold water. Pour in the corn-starch
and set away on the ice to cool and harden. Serve very
cold with Custard Sauce, flavored with vanilla.
N. B.-—The above is greatly improved by the addition,
when removed from the fire, of 2 eggs well beaten in. Fin-'
ish as directed.
Take fresh raspberries; sweeten to taste and set in a china-
lined saucepan on the fire to scald. When the fruit begins
to dissolve, press it through a sieve, taking all but the seeds.
Put the juice again on the fire, measuring the quantity. To
every quart of juice, allow about 3 heaping tablespoonfuls
of corn-starch. Blend the corn-starch with a little of the
cold juice. When the juice in the saucepan comes to a boil,
stir in the corn-starch and continue to stir until it has boiled
3 to 5 minutes, is thick and transparent (not milky). Taste
to see that the corn-starch is perfectly smooth; if not, boil a
little longer. Remove from the fire and stir in currant-jelly
to taste. (Or some fresh currants may be stewed with the
CORN-STARCH BLANC-MANGE.
I quart of new milk,
8 level tablespoons of corn-starch,
Flavoring to taste.
I gill of sugar,
Pinch of salt,
RODGROD (DANISH).


TAPIOCA JELLY.
47$
raspberries, allowing about 1 part of currants to 3 parts of
raspberries.) Have ready blanched about 2 gills of almonds
to 1 quart of juice. Cut the almonds into shreds and stir
them into the mixture. Rinse out a mould with cold water;
fill with the mixture, and set away to harden. It should not
become quite as stiff as blanc-mange. Serve in a glass dish
with a pitcher of very thick cream. Or, the same may be
made with Cox's gelatine, using 1 ounce of gelatine to 1
quart of juice. Delicious.
FRUIT BLANC-MANGE.
KISELLE.
Stew any kind of fresh fruit, such as raspberries, strawber-
ries, etc.; strain off the juice and sweeten to taste. Measure
the juice and put it again on the fire. To every pint of
juice allow 2 heaping tablespoonfuls of corn-starch, blended
with a little cold water. When the juice boils, stir in the
corn-starch, and continue to stir until the corn-starch is
thoroughly done, which will require about 5 minutes' boil-
ing. Taste, and if perfectly smooth, pour it into moulds
which have been rinsed out with cold water. . Set in a cold
place to harden; when firm, turn out and serve with cream
and sugar. It may be set to harden in small teacups. Recom-
mended.
TAPIOCA JELLY.
GELEE DE TAPIOCA. . [
4 cups of cold water, I lemon, juice and grated rind,
1 cup of tapioca, soaked 4 or 5 hours, Sugar to taste.
Soak the tapioca in the water as directed, or overnight;
add the sugar; set on the fire in a farina-kettle, and boil 1
hour, or until perfectly transparent. When nearly cooked,
add lemon-juice and a little of the grated rind. Rinse out
small moulds or cups with cold water; fill with the mixture
and set in a cold place to harden. Turn out and serve very
cold with sweetened cream or Custard Sauce (see receipt).
Excellent for children and invalids.


COQUETTES.
475
the fire until perfectly smooth and until so thick that it be-
gins to leave the sides of the saucepan. Then remove from
the fire; beat in the eggs, one at a time; beat very hard;
add finally the white, beaten to a stiff froth. The batter
should be thick enough to drop slowly from the spoon. Set
in the ice-box for 2 hours. Have ready in a saucepan the
lard, which should be at least 2 inches deep when melted, so
that the beignets may puff and cook without touching the
bottom. Bring the lard to a boil; test it with a piece of
the batter. If it is ready, drop in pieces of the batter as
large as a nut. Fry until golden-brown on all sides. Re-
move with a skimmer to a paper in the mouth of the oven,
to dry, and when ready to serve, sift powdered sugar over
them. Pile in a pyramid on a cut paper and serve very hot.
They should be round and very light, if successful.
COQUETTES.
I ounce of butter, I pint of flour,
I pint of boiling water, 5 eggs.
Put the water in the saucepan, and, when boiling, remove
from the fire and stir in the flour, mixing well. Stir it over
the fire until it thickens and begins to leave the sides of the
saucepan. Remove it, beat in the butter and the eggs, one
at a time, very thoroughly. Have ready deep boiling lard.
When boiling, drop in the batter by bits the size of a walnut.
For directions for frying, see Beignets Souffles. Fry golden
brown. Remove with a skimmer to a piece of brown paper
in the mouth of the oven to drain; sift with fine sugar and
serve in a pyramid on cut paper. The batter requires a great
deal of beating, both before, and when, the eggs are in, but
(the receipt goes on to say) " the coquettes are so beautiful
and delicious that one is repaid for the trouble of making
them."
N. B.—This batter baked in spoonfuls on tin makes crusts
for Cream Puffs.


476 GOOD-LIVING.
CREME FRITE.
1 pint of new milk, Lard,
3 yolks of eggs, I gill of sugar,
2 tablespoons of corn-starch, Butter the size of a hickory-nut,
I tablespoon of sifted flour, I teaspoon of vanilla,
I egg for dipping, I inch of stick-cinnamon,
Cracker-dust.
Blend the corn-starch and flour with a little cold milk.
Put the rest of the milk and cinnamon to boil in a farina-
kettle. When it boils, stir in the corn-starch and flour.
Stir and boil 3 minutes, or until the flour is thoroughly
cooked. Remove from the fire, and stir in the yolks of eggs,
beaten to a cream with the sugar. Return to the fire, and
stir over boiling water for a few minutes until thickened, but
do not boil, or it will curdle. Take out the cinnamon; stir
in butter and vanilla. Pour \ an inch deep into a shallow,
buttered dish to cool. When cold and firm, cut into rounds
or squares to taste; dip carefully in sifted cracker-dust, then
in egg slightly beaten, then again in cracker. Fry in deep
boiling lard (see General Directions for Frying). Set in the
oven 4 or 5 minutes to soften the cream inside. Sprinkle
with sugar, and serve hot in a pyramid on cut paper.
BATTER FOR FRUIT FRITTERS.
I heaping cup of flour, 1 or 2 tablespoons of brandy or rum
I tablespoon of olive oil, 2 eggs,
Cold water.
Mix the yolks of eggs with the flour, then add the oil and
liquor (substituting wine or lemon-juice, if preferred); thin
with water, to the consistency of thick cream. Add lastly
the whites of eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Dip the fruit, etc.,
into this, and fry in boiling lard. The batter should be thick
enough to coat the fruit thoroughly (see receipts for Fritters).
FRENCH BA TTER.
4 ounces of sifted flour, 2 gills of milk,
I level tablespoon of olive oil, 1 egg,
Pinch of salt.
Beat the egg, white and yolk together. Add milk, salt,
and oil to it. Mix and pour this upon the flour. Blend


PEACH FRITTERS.
477
perfectly smooth. It should be of the consistency of rich
cream. Use for fruit fritters, dipping the fruit into it, and
boiling in lard as directed. Apples for fritters should always
be scalded for 5 minutes before dipping in the batter, or
the fruit will still be raw when the batter is cooked. These
fritters should be pale golden-yellow.
PLAIN FRITTERS.
BEIGNETS.
I pint of new milk, 3 eggs,
Pinch of salt, I pint of flour,
I teaspoon of baking-powder, Flavoring to taste.
Beat the eggs, whites and yolks apart. Sift the salt and
baking-powder with the flour (the baking-powder may be
omitted, if preferred). Stir the eggs and milk into the
flour; flavor to taste; add, lastly, the whites of eggs, beaten
to a stiff froth. Fry by the teaspoonful in deep boiling laijd
(see Beignets Souffles). When golden-brown, remove with
a skimmer to brown paper in the mouth of the oven. When
dry, sift powdered sugar over; serve in a pyramid on cut
paper. If well made, the fritters will puff very much.
PEACH FRITTERS.
BEIGNETS DE PECHES.
Fresh or canned peaches, Brandy or rum,
Grated lemon-peel, Sugar.
Peel, stone, and halve the peaches. Sprinkle them with
grated lemon-peel, sugar, and rum. Cover and set aside in
this mixture for 2 or 3 hours; then drain. Make a Batter
for Fruit Fritters (see receipt), using the liquor from the
peaches. At the last moment, add to the batter the whites
of eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. The batter should be thick
enough to coat the fruit thoroughly. Have ready boiling a
saucepan of deep lard. Dip the peaches, one piece at a time,
into the batter, and drop into the lard. When golden-brown,
remove with a skimmer to brown paper in the mouth of the


478
GOOD-LIVING.
oven to dry. Sift over powdered sugar. Serve in a pyramid
on cut paper.
N. B.—Be sure the lard is boiling before the peaches are
put in, or the fritters will be spoiled (see General Directions
for Frying).
APPLE FRITTERS.
BEIGNETS DE POMMES.
Peel, core, and slice fine tart apples. Scald in boiling water
until about half-cooked. Then drain ; dip in Batter for Fruit
Fritters (see receipt); finish as directed for Peach Fritters.
Or, dip the fruit in French Batter (see receipt), and finish
as above.
STRA WBERRY FRITTERS.
BEIGNETS DE FRAISES.
1 heaping cup of flour, 2 eggs,
White wine, rum, or brandy, Grated peel of }4 a lemon,
I tablespoon of salad oil, Large strawberries.
* Mix the oil, lemon-peel, and flour together. Beat in the
yolks, and add enough white wine to make this the consist-
ency of very thick cream. At the last moment, add the
whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Remove the stems
from very large strawberries; drop them into the batter.
Have boiling in a kettle, lard at least 2 inches deep. When
you are certain that it is boiling, drop the mixture by the
spoonful into the lard, allowing I strawberry to each fritter.
Fry gold color. Remove with a skimmer to brown paper
in the mouth of the oven, and sift sugar over them. Serve
in a pyramid on cut paper.
N.B.—Be sure the lard is boiling (see General Directions
for Frying).
JOLLY BOYS.
I pint of rye-meal, 2 tablespoons of molasses,
1 cup of wheat-flour, 2 eggs,
2 large teaspoons of baking-powder, I gill of Indian meal,
or 1 teaspoon of cream of tartar I saltspoon of salt,
and of soda, 1 teaspoon of ground cinnamon.
Mix well together the meals, flour, salt, cinnamon, and bak-
ing-powder (or cream of tartar). Add the eggs well beaten


480
GOOD-LIVING.
dredge the top with powdered sugar. Set in a quick oven.
It will require only about 6 minutes, if the oven is right. Do
not let it stand an instant. It must be waited for, rather
than wait. To be successful, the details must be strictly
observed, and the eggs beaten unsparingly.
GINGER SOUFFLE-.
4 ounces of potato flour, I pint of new milk,
3 " "powdered sugar, 4 ounces of butter,
4 " "preserved ginger, 6 eggs,
Rind of I lemon.
Cream the butter and sugar; add chopped ginger, grated
lemon-peel, and flour (or corn-starch). Stir over the fire
until quite smooth, adding the milk, which should be hot,
but not boiling. Remove from the fire; beat in, 1 at a time,
6 yolks of eggs. Beat the whites to a stiff froth, and mix
carefully with the batter. Fill I large, or several small, well-
buttered and heated souffle-cases; set in a quick oven ; bake
about 20 minutes, and serve immediately before it falls.
ARROW-ROOT SOUFFLE^.
I pint of milk, Sugar to taste,
3 yolks of eggs, 2 tablespoons of arrow-root,
I white of egg, Juice of I lemon,
Grated rind of ^ lemon.
For meringue:
2 whites of eggs, 2 tablespoons of powdered sugar.
Boil the milk. Mix the arrow-root with a little cold water
and stir into the boiling milk. Remove from the fire and,
when cool, add the yolks of 3 eggs, lemon-juice and peel,
sugar to taste, and lastly the beaten white of 1 egg. Bake
in a good oven 20 to 30 minutes. Beat the remaining whites
of eggs until foamy; add the sugar, and beat until stiff and
glossy. Spread over the top and return to the oven for 2 or
3 minutes until slightly browned. Serve immediately.


SPANISH TOAST.
481
TOT FAIT.
3 tablespoons of flour, Grated rind and juice of 1 lemon,
3 " "powdered sugar, 4 eggs,
2 tablespoons of milk.
Beat the yolks of eggs to a cream; beat in sugar. Add
flour and beat until smooth; then add juice and rind of
lemon; then the milk, and strain. Beat the whites to a stiff
froth. Beat them into the batter with as few strokes as pos-
sible. Have ready a well-greased, hot pudding-dish. Fill it
not more than f-full of the mixture; dredge with powdered
sugar, and bake in a quick oven about 15 minutes. Serve
immediately, or it will fall.
RICE SOUFFLE-.
SOUFFLE AU RIZ.
3 ounces of rice-flour, I teaspoon of vanilla,
6 eggs, 2 ounces of butter,
2 gills of cream 5 " "sugar,
Pinch of salt.
Bring the cream to a boil in the farina-kettle. Beat to-
gether butter, sugar, rice-flour, and yolks of eggs until very
light, then stir them very briskly into the boiling cream.
Stir without ceasing until it thickens. Remove; add salt
and vanilla. Add, lastly, the whites beaten to a very stiff
froth; stir them carefu41y into the mixture and set away to
cool; serve cold. Or, turn the mixture into a well-greased,
hot pudding-dish and bake in a quick oven 15 to 20 minutes.
Serve immediately, or it will fall.
SPANISH TOAST.
TORRIJAS.
I pint of milk, I egg,
I gill of rum or liqueur, Powdered sugar,
Powdered cinnamon or nutmeg, Lard for frying.
Beat the egg into the milk. Mix, and sweeten to taste.
Cut strips of stale bread as thick as your finger, twice as
31


482
GOOD-LIVING.
broad, and 5 inches long. Having removed the crusts, dip
the bread first into the sweetened milk, then into the rum.
Drain. Have ready, in a frying-pan, deep boiling lard.
When certain that it is boiling (see General Directions for
Frying), lay in the bread. Fry golden-brown. Remove
with a skimmer to brown paper in the oven. When dry,
place on a hot dish, 2 and 2 at right angles. Sift powdered
sugar and cinnamon over them, and serve with Custard
Sauce (see receipt) flavored with rum.
QUEEN ELIZABETH'S TOAST.
PAIN PERDU.
Proceed exactly as for Torrijas, cutting the slices the same
thickness, but larger, and omitting the rum. Fry in butter,
browning both sides. Serve with mixed cinnamon and sugar.
PANCAKES.
CREPES.
I egg, 4 ounces of sifted flour.
2% gills of milk, Pinch of salt.
Beat the egg, yolk and white together; add it and the
salt to the milk, then pour these upon the flour and mix
perfectly smooth. The batter must be no thicker than
good cream. Have a small frying-pan very hot; grease it
thoroughly with butter or drippings. Pour in batter enough
to only just cover the bottom. In a minute, perhaps less, if
the pan is very hot, the cake can be turned. This part is
done by sleight of. hand by very experienced cooks, who toss
it, catching it again in the pan, bringing the brown side up.
This is not recommended to beginners; it will be found
safer, if slower, to use the cake-turner. The great secret of
good pancakes is to have them as thin as possible and very
tender. As they are cooked, pile them on a hot plate. When
ready to serve, spread each with jelly and roll it up; or
sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon mixed, and roll. Dish
them very neatly and serve very hot.


CURRANT CHARLOTTE.
483
APPLE CHARLOTTE.
CHARLOTTE DE POMMES.
Butter a deep pudding-dish. Line the bottom and sides
with buttered bread cut about of an inch thick. Fill the
dish with sliced apples ; sprinkle with a little nutmeg. Mix
together I gill each of water and molasses. Pour this over
the apples. Sprinkle with i gill of brown sugar, and cover
closely with slices of buttered bread. The top must be very
even and smooth. Cover the top with a tin pie-plate. Bake
in a very moderate oven for about 2 hours. When done,
loosen the edges with a knife, and turn it out very carefully
on a dish. Serve hot with Custard Sauce flavored with rum,
or with sugar and cream.
PIE-PLANT CHARLOTTE.
I pound of pie-plant,
I pound of soft sugar,
Bread-crumbs, or slices of bread,
Butter.
Peel the pie-plant and cut it into pieces i inch long. But-
ter a pudding-dish. Cover the bottom with a layer of
crumbs; put over this a layer of pie-plant covered thickly
with sugar; then another layer of crumbs, fruit, and sugar;
and so on until the dish is filled, dotting the last layer of
crumbs with bits of butter. The bread may be cut in thin
slices and buttered; but it is recommended that the crumbs
be used. Bake very slowly for 1 hour and 30 minutes.
Serve cold with cream.
CHERRY CHARLOTTE.
CHARLOTTE DE CERISES.
Proceed as above, substituting cherries in the same pro-
portions.
CURRANT CHARLOTTE.
CHARLOTTE DE GROSEILLES.
Proceed as for Pie-Plant Charlotte, substituting currants
in the same proportions.


484
GOOD-LIVING.
RASPBERRY CHARLOTTE.
CHARLOTTE DE FRAMBOISES.
Proceed as for Pie-Plant Charlotte, substituting raspberries.
GOOSEBERRY CHARLOTTE.
Proceed as for Pie-Plant Charlotte, substituting goose-
berries.
STRAWBERRY SARACEN.
Strawberries, Sugar,
Slices of thin toast, Butter.
Butter the toast generously, and line with it the bottom
and sides of a china dish which can be set in the oven. The
pieces of toast, made of stale bread and cut quite thin, should
be very well dried in toasting; they should be trimmed to
fit into the dish neatly. Fill the remaining space with
stemmed strawberries, packed closely. Sift plenty of sugar
over and among the berries, and set in a moderate oven for
30 minutes, or until the fruit has melted a good deal, and
settled. It will be found that they melt away so much that
the dish must not only be packed but heaped, or it will not
look well when done. Serve very cold with thick cream.
Delicious.
RASPBERRY SARACEN.
Proceed as above, substituting raspberries.
CHERRY TOAST.
CROOTE AUX CERISES.
Make thin slices of very dry toast; butter generously.
Lay the toast on a dish. Put in a saucepan I quart of
stemmed cherries with \ to 1 pound of sugar (according to
tartness) and 1 gill of water. Cover and stew until the ber-
ries are very tender. Throw the hot syrup and fruit over
the toast and set away. Serve very cold with cream. Simple,
but excellent.


orange salad.
487
BAKED QUINCES.
Core ripe apple-quinces of uniform size. Place them in a
baking-pan. Put the cores in the pan. Fill the spaces left
by the cores with sugar, adding to the pan about 1 gill (for
8 quincesV Fill the pan with boiling water to \ the height
of the quinces. Cover with an inverted pan. Set in the
oven for 30 minutes. Then uncover and continue to bake
until the quinces are tender, which will require perhaps an
hour or more. The oven should be moderately hot. When
tender, dish the quinces. Set the pan over the fire, and boil
briskly for a few minutes, adding more sugar, if not sweet
enough; strain the syrup over the fruit, and set away. Serve
cold with cream. Recommended.
FRIED BANANAS.
BANANES FRITES.
Having peeled the bananas, cut them in two, lengthwise
Have ready hot butter in the frying-pan. Lay in the
bananas. Sift with powdered sugar. Fry brown one side;
then turn; sift again with sugar; when the second side is
browned, dish neatly and serve hot.
ORANGE SALAD.
SALADE D'ORANGES.
4 oranges, 1 gill of Jamaica rum,
Powdered sugar.
Select very juicy oranges (Indian Rivers are best). Peel
and slice in thin slices. Sift sugar over each layer in a glass
dish ; pour the rum over all. Cover, and set away for 2 hours
in a cool place. Baste from time to time. Or, the oranges
may be washed and sliced without peeling; then dressed as
above.


GOOD-LIVINC.
APPLE AND ORANGE SALAD.
3 oranges,
I gill of rum
2 apples,
Powdered sugar.
Peel and shave the apples in very thin slices; mix with
the oranges, and finish as directed for Orange Salad.
Draw off the outer skin and fibres, beginning at the top.
Use a silver knife. Cut the pie-plant in 2-inch lengths. Lay
it in a fire-proof bake-dish ; sprinkle soft sugar over it, allow-
ing about pound to pound. Heap the dish with fruit, as it
will shrink a great deal. Set the dish in a moderately-quick
oven, and bake for about 30 minutes, or until perfectly
tender, and surrounded by a rich syrup. If the oven is too
hot, cover with a' tin pie-plate, as the pie-plant must not
brown. It may be served, when cold, in a glass dish, plain;
or the dish may be lined with macaroons and filled with the
pie-plant. This mode of preparing the pie-plant, when once
tested, will prove so satisfactory that it is safe to say that it
will be adopted in preference to stewing. Should the old
way be preferred, however, scald the pie-plant first and throw
the water off before adding the sugar. This does away with
a certain amount of the extreme acidity.
TO PREPARE STRA WBERRIES FOR TABLE.
Do not wash them unless they absolutely require it. If,
'however, you are obliged to, do not stem them until after
washing and draining thoroughly. Do not sugar them until
they are served at table. If washing is necessary, fill a large
bowl with cold water ; put the strawberries in a colander, anc'.
dip the colander 2 or 3 times into the bowl. Shake out well,
and stand colander and berries near the ice until wanted.
Then stem them. In France, handsome extra-large berries
are always served in a pyramid, with the stems on. They
are dipped in sugar, one by one, and eaten from the stem.
PIE-PLANT OR RHUBARB.


TO PPEPAPE PINE-APPf.E POP TABLE.
489
TO PREPARE PINE-APPLE FOR TABLE.
Be sure the pine is perfectly ripe. Pare it from the top
down. Remove the eyes. Hold the top in the left hand,
and with a fork held in the right, scoop the fruit off from the
core in pieces about 2 inches square. Place these in a glass
dish; sift with powdered sugar, and set away in the ice-box
until required. Never cut a pine-apple with a knife in slices
through the core; it is much less digestible, and its flavor is
injured by contact with the knife. When properly prepared,
core and top-leaves should remain in one piece.



ICE-CREAMS, WATER-ICES, ETC.
GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR FREEZING ICE-CREAMS, WATER-
ICES, ETC.
The essentials for making good plain (Philadelphia) cream
are: the best cream, ripe, juicy fruit, and granulated sugar.
Avoid, for this class of ice-cream, all thickening, whether
corn-starch, arrow-root, or gelatine. These latter are neces-
sary in many of the fancy creams, but not for the above. It
is best to scald, not boil the cream, the sugar being dissolved
in it while hot. The flavoring, whether fruit or other, will be
stronger if added after the first freezing. Avoid freezing the
cream raw, as it is never as smooth, but acquires a harshness
and a snowy taste; it increases much more in bulk.
Procure the best of freezers, such as the " White Moun-
tain "; see that all is in perfect readiness before beginning
the operation. For a 4-quart freezer, allow about 10 pounds
of ice and 2 quarts of rock-salt. The ice must be pounded
finer at the commencement of the operation than later on.
Set in the tin cylinder; fill \- or at most f-full of the mixture,
allowing always ample room for it to swell as it freezes. Cover.
Adjust the crank. Turn to see that all is right. Now put in
the ice 3 inches deep, then salt 1 inch deep, and so on, in lay-
ers, to the top of the can. Now turn steadily and not too
rapidly, until the crank works very hard. This should take
about 25 minutes. It is not well to freeze it too fast. Now
unscrew the crank; wipe the lid; remove it and the dasher.
With a long flat piece of wood (spatula), scrape down the in-
ner sides, and beat vigorously for 10 minutes. This makes
490


49^
GOOD-LIVIMG.
custard should be sufficient to melt it; if not, stir it over the
fire until dissolved. Strain the custard into a bowl, and set
aside to cool thoroughly before freezing. When cold, have
ready freezer, salt, and ice. Pour the custard into the tin
cylinder; pack with ice and salt and turn steadily (see Gen-
eral Directions for Ice-Creams). When the crank will scarcely
turn any more, wipe off the top of the cylinder very care-
fully, scrape down the cream from the sides, and pour in the
Whipped Cream (which has been first chilled and then whipped
over a pan of ice, see receipt). Close the cylinder and freezer,
being very careful that no salt gets inside. Turn again un-
til too stiff, then carefully remove the dasher ; scrape all the
ice-cream down again; smooth it over; re-cover; put a stop-
per in the hole in the tin cover; pack with more salt and
ice; cover with carpet and set away for 2 or 3 hours; or
pack in a mould in the same way, filling the mould very
full, and packing it in a pail of ice and salt.
Boil the milk and thicken with the flour, which has been
rubbed smooth with a little cold milk. When smooth, add
the sugar and salt. Remove from the fire, and stir carefully
into the 3 beaten yolks of eggs. Return for 1 minute or 2
to the fire, stirring constantly, but do not boil. Set away to
cool. Meanwhile, have the cream standing on ice. Whip it
and the 6 whites of eggs separately, to a thick froth. When
the first mixture is cold, add the flavoring, and, just at the
moment of freezing, add the beaten cream and eggs (see
General Directions for Freezing Ice-Creams).
VANILLA ICE-CREAM.
CREME glacee A la van1lle.
2 quarts of milk,
3 cups of sugar,
3 yolks of eggs,
I quart of cream,
2 tablespoons of flour,
Pinch of salt,
6 whites of eggs,
3 teaspoons of vanilla
I teaspoon lemon.


PHILADELPHIA COFFEE ICE-CREAM.
493
CHOCOLA TE ICE-CREAM.
CREME GLACEE AU CHOCOLAT.
3 pints of whole new milk, 6 eggs,
I pint of cream, whipped, I pound of sugar,
6 ounces Maillard's or Huyler's chocolate.
Put the milk into the farina-kettle and bring it to a boil.
Grate the chocolate into a bowl. Add to it the eggs and
sugar, and beat until well mixed. When the milk boils,
stir it gently into the eggs, etc., stirring rapidly. When the
chocolate is well melted, turn all back into the farina-kettle;
place on the fire over hot water, and stir until the custard
thickens a little, but do not let it boil. Strain the custard
into a bowl and set away to cool. When cold, turn it into the
freezer; pack as directed in General Directions for Freezing
Ice-Creams, and when quite stiff, carefully open the freezer
and put in the cream, which has been whipped with a Dover
egg-beater in a bowl over a pan of cracked ice. Shut the
freezer; turn again until very stiff; then pack the ice-cream
in a mould, filling it very closely; put the cover on tightly;
cover the crack with a strip of muslin dipped in butter, to
keep out the salt; pack in a pail with salt and ice; cover
with a piece of carpet, and set in a cool place for 1 or 2
hours. This ice-cream is very reliable, and delicious.
PHILADELPHIA COFFEE ICE-CREAM.
I quart of cream, ^ pound of powdered sugar,
4 ounces of Mocha or 3 of Java coffee.
Grind the coffee coarsely; put it with 1 pint of cream in
the farina-kettle on the fire, and let it stand without quite
coming to a boil for 10 minutes; then strain and press it in
a fine sieve until all the strength is pressed out. Add the
sugar and stir until dissolved. When perfectly cold, add the
remaining pint of cream, and freeze (see General Directions
for Freezing Ice-Creams). When frozen, pack and stand 2
hours as directed.


494
GOOD-LIVING.
PARFAIT AU CAFÉ.
I quart of thick cream,
I gill of strong black coffee,
1/2 cup of powdered sugar.
Mix the coffee, sugar, and cream ; whip to a froth. As
the froth appears, skim it off to a colander to drain. What-
ever drains off may be whipped again. Use a Dover egg.
beater, and stand the cream in a pan of cracked ice while
you beat it. This will greatly facilitate the whipping.
When all is done, turn it into an ice-cream mould ; press
the lid down tightly; bind the joint with a strip of muslin
dipped in melted butter (to keep out the salt); pack in salt
and ice, the layers of ice being 3 inches, and salt i inch, deep.
Cover with a piece of carpet and set in a cold place for 3
hours or more. Turn out and serve. Renew the ice if
necessary.
BISQUE ICE-CREAM.
I quart of rich cream,
2 lady-fingers,
4 kisses,
I teaspoon of caramel,
A pound of macaroons,
72 " “ sugar,
I teaspoon of vanilla,
5 tablespoons of sherry.
Rub the stale macaroons, kisses, and lady-fingers through
a colander. Put i pint of cream in the farina-kettle; when
hot, add to it the sugar. Stir until dissolved. Remove from
the fire; when cool, add the remainder of the cream, and
strain into the freezer. When frozen nearly stiff, add the
vanilla, caramel, pounded cakes, and 5 tablespoonfuls of
sherry. Beat until perfectly smooth (see General Directions
for Freezing Ice-Creams). Re-pack as directed, and let stand
2 hours or more in a cold place before using.
BROWN-BREAD ICE-CREAM.
3 slices of Boston brown bread,
i quart of cream,
72 pound of sugar.
Toast the bread in a cool oven, then roll and sift it
through a fine sieve. Put i pint of cream in the farina


FROZEN PINE-APPLE CREAM.
495
kettle on the fire; add the sugar and stir until dissolved.
Add the remaining cream and set away to cool. When
cold, freeze according to General Directions for Freezing
Ice-Creams. When frozen, beat in the brown bread ; remove
the dasher, and re-pack as directed. Set away 2 hours. Bis-
cuit Ice-Cream is made in the same manner, substituting 6
ounces of sponge cake for the brown bread.
CARAMEL ICE-CREAM.
creme glacee au caramel.
Iyi pounds of brown sugar, 3 quarts of cream,
1 pint of boiling milk.
Melt the sugar in the frying-pan until liquid, stirring all
the time. Do not let it scorch or get too dark. Pour the
caramel into the boiling milk by degrees, mixing well.
When cold, strain it into the cream and freeze (see General
Directions for Freezing Ice-Creams). One pint of the cream
may be whipped and added as directed.
FROZEN PEACHES AND CREAM.
PECHES GLACEES A LA CREME.
Select ripe peaches; peel and mash to a pulp. Make them
very sweet, perhaps not quite as much as pound for pound of
fruit and sugar, but they must be very sweet, as freezing
destroys much of the effect of the sugar. Allow I pint of
cream to each pint of peach-pulp and sugar, and freeze (see
General Directions for Freezing Ice-Creams).
FROZEN PINE-APPLE CREAM.
CREME GLACEE A L'ANANAS.
Select a ripe pine-apple ; pare; remove the eyes ; grate and
proceed exactly as for Frozen Peaches and Cream.


GOOD-LIvmG.
FROZEN STRA WBERRIES AND CREAM.
FRAISES GLACEES A LA CREME.
Mash the strawberries, stemmed. Allow I pound of sugar
to I quart of fruit. When thoroughly mashed, add I quart
of cream and freeze (see General Directions for Freezing
Ice-Creams).
•
PINE-APPLE MOUSSE.
MOUSSE A l'ananas.
I pine-apple, 3 level teaspoons of vanilla,
Powdered sugar, 3 tablespoons of Jamaica rum,
3 times the bulk of fruit in whipped cream.
Peel the pine-apple. Cut a few slices of it; lay them in a
bowl, sprinkled with powdered sugar and a very little rum.
Cover and set away until wanted. Grate the rest of the
pine-apple into an earthenware bowl. Add to it the vanilla
and rum and sufficient sugar to make it very sweet. Set the
bowl over ice and stir until very cold. Meanwhile have
ready beaten over a pan of ice the cream, which should then
equal 3 times the bulk of fruit. Fill an ice-cream mould
with the mixture. Fit the cover on closely; cover the joint
with a strip of muslin dipped in melted butter, to keep out
the salt; pack in salt and ice ; the layers of ice being 3 inches,
and salt I inch, deep. Cover with a carpet and set away in a
cold place for three hours at least. When ready to serve,
turn out the cream; place around it the slices of pine-apple
and its syrup, and serve.
STRA WBERRY ICE-CREAM.
CREME GLACEE A LA FRAISE.
I quart of cream, l>£ quarts berries, stemmed,
I pound of sugar.
Put I pint of cream and £ a pound of sugar in the farina-
kettle on the fire. When the sugar is dissolved, set aside to


FROZEN APPLE PUDDING.
497
cool. Put the rcm3.inin£j" 4- of the sugar over the berries;
mash and set aside for 1 hour. Then press through a sieve.
Add the remaining cream to the scalded cream, and freeze
(see General Directions for Freezing Ice-Creams). When
frozen, stir in the fruit-juice; beat until smooth, and finish
according to same directions.
PINE-APPLE ICE-CREAM.
CREME glacee A l'ananas.
I quart of cream, I large pine-apple,
I pound of sugar, I lemon, juice only.
Put I pint of the cream with of the sugar in the farina-
kettle on the fire; stir until the sugar is dissolved. Remove
from the fire and set aside to cool. Pare the pine-apple, re-
moving the eyes and core. Grate the rest; mix it with the
remaining sugar; stir until it dissolves. Add the remaining
pint of cream to the scalded cream, and freeze (see General
Directions for Freezing Ice-Creams). Add the lemon-juice to
the pine-apple, and when the cream is frozen, stir the fruit
into it. Beat thoroughly and finish as directed. If canned
pine-apple is used, add the lemon-juice to it; add all to the
cream and freeze.
FROZEN APPLE PUDDING.
24 apples, pared, cored, and quartered, % pint of preserved or candied cherries,
l/x pint of apricot jam, ]4 pound of sugar,
% pound raisins, stoned, I orange rind, grated,
2 ounces of almonds, blanched, I ounce of citron, sliced,
1 pint of cream, whipped, I gill of curacoa,
1 gill of maraschino.
Stew the apples until tender. Mix with them the orange-
rind and apricot (or peach) jam, also the sugar. Mash them
through a coarse sieve ; freeze. Simmer the raisins for a few
minutes in a little sugar and water. Drain, and add these,
with.the almonds shredded, the cherries, and citron, to the
apples, when the latter are partly frozen. Add the curacoa
32


498 GOOD-LIVING.
and maraschino when the mixture is quite frozen. When the
crank turns very hard, add the whipped cream. Turn a little
longer, then fill a mould as described, and finish according to
General Directions for Freezing Ice-Creams. When ready,
turn out of the mould, and serve with a Sauce of Whipped
Cream.
PLUM-PUDDING GLACE.
1 tablespoon of arrow-root, I quart of milk,
2 ounces stoned raisins, % pound brandied peaches,
2 '' currants, well washed, I quart cream,
2 " citron, chopped, Y pound chocolate,
2 cups sugar, 2 eggs,
3 whites of eggs, or whipped cream for sauce.
Boil the milk; dissolve the chocolate in it. Rub the arrow-
root up with a little cold milk or water, and stir in. When
thickened, stir in very carefully the 2 eggs mixed smooth
with a few drops of cold water. Stir and set aside to get
cold. Add the fruit and flavorings. Whip the cream and
add the sugar to it. At the moment of freezing, add this to
the chocolate. Pack in a mould (see General Directions for
Freezing Ice-Creams). Serve with Whipped Cream Sauce
(see receipt).
N. B.—In putting the frozen pudding into the mould, be
very cautious not to let a particle of salt get into it. Cover
it tightly and set in a bucket with ice and salt until used.
NESSELRODE PUDDING.
Sponge-cake, 2 even tablespoons of gelatine,
Candied, brandied, and preserved I quart chocolate custard (see Boiled
fruits, raisins, marrons glace's, Custard).
Soak the gelatine in a little cold milk for 1 hour; remove
the crust and cut the cake (a baker's sponge-cake) in slices
about £ an inch thick. Trim them evenly. Soak them in a
little sherry wine. Fit a layer of this in the bottom of a tin
ice-cream mould (be sure the cover fits well). On this, cake
lay a layer of mixed fruits, using preserved, candied, and


ALASKA OR ROASTED ICE-CREAM.
499
brandied fruits of any kind, raisins, and marrons glaces. Put
the fruit in bit by bit, carefully. Cover this with cake, leav-
ing a space at the sides, between the cake and the mould;
repeat this until the mould is nearly filled. Have ready the
custard prepared according to the receipt given for Boiled
Custard. When it is boiling hot, dissolve the gelatine in it;
strain and set aside to cool. When cold, pour the custard
into the mould very carefully; fill the mould not quite full;
fit the cover closely; seal the crack with a strip of muslin
dipped in melted butter. Set in a tub of ice and salt; the
ice being 3 inches, the salt 1 inch, deep. Cover with a carpet
and set in a cold place about 6 hours. See that the ice is
kept over it; renew if necessary. When ready, turn out of
the mould and serve with Whipped Cream Sauce.
FROZEN FRUIT PUDDING.
I pint of rich milk, I pint of cut peaches or ripe berries,
I " "rich cream, whipped, 3 eggs, yolks only,
1l4 cups of sugar.
Beat the eggs well together with the sugar. Bring the
milk to a boil; stir it carefully into the eggs and sugar.
Return it to the kettle and stir over the fire until it thickens
slightly; do not let it boil, or it will curdle. Set the custard
aside to cool, then freeze as directed (see General Directions
for Freezing Ice-Creams). When partly frozen, add the
whipped cream. Turn a little longer, then stir in the fruit.
Pack in a mould.
ALASKA, OR ROASTED ICE-CREAM.
Use the lower half of a round sponge-cake as the base;
upon this place a small, very solidly-frozen form of ice-cream.
Cover this thickly with a very stiff meringue of sugar and
white of egg. Sprinkle' with sugar. Heat a salamander, or,
the kitchen shovel, red-hot, and hold it sufficiently close to
the meringue to brown it on all sides. This gives the ap-
pearance of having been roasted, and at the same time the


goo
GOOD-LIVING.
ice-cream remains perfectly frozen. The uninitiated are
quite convinced that it is roasted, and are much amazed
at this culinary curiosity.
Make a Boiled Custard (see receipt) with the eggs, milk,
and sugar; flavor with vanilla to taste. Freeze the custard
in the usual way (see General Directions for Freezing Ice-
Creams). When nearly frozen, add either 8 ounces of can-
died fruit, mixed in equal parts, or I ounce candied citron,
sliced, 2 ounces of currants washed and dried, 2 ounces of
raisins, stoned and chopped. Cover again and freeze for a few
minutes longer, then add the cream. The maraschino is a
good addition, but not indispensable. It should be put in
with the fruit. Pack in a mould and finish as by General
Directions for Freezing Ice-Creams. Serve with a Sauce of
Whipped Cream.
LEMON WATER-ICE.
GLACE AU CITRON.
Peel the thin yellow rind from 3 lemons and the orange;
put it, the sugar and the water in a saucepan; bring to a
boil, and boil for 5 minutes. Set away to cool. Squeeze the
juice from the lemons and orange; strain it into the syrup
when cold. Strain the whole into the freezer, and freeze.
Turn until stiff; remove the dasher; scrape down the water-
ice. Cover it securely. Drain off the water; re-pack with
salt and ice in layers of 3 inches ice and 1 inch salt. Cover
with carpet. Set away in a cool place for 2 hours. Or
pack in a mould, following the same directions. A little
while before re-packing, may be added the whites of 2 eggs
beaten to a very stiff froth; freeze again, then re-pack.
ICED PUDDING.
4 eggs, yolks only,
1 pint of boiled milk,
1 gill of maraschino,
4 tablespoons of sugar,
]/z pint of cream, whipped, -
Canned or dried fruit.
4 large juicy lemons,
Zj4 pounds of sugar,
1 orange,
1 quart of water.


FROZEN STRA WBERRIES.
RASPBERRY ICE.
GLACE A LA FRAMBOISE.
1 quart of red raspberries, I quart of water,
Juice of 2 lemons, I pound of sugar.
Add the sugar and lemon-juice to the berries; stir and set
aside for 1 hour. Press through a sieve; add the water.
Freeze as directed for Lemon Water-Ice. The beaten whites
of 2 eggs may be added. See above.
STRAWBERRY ICE.
GLACE A LA FRAISE.
I quart of berries, I pound of sugar,
I " "water, Juice of 2 lemons.
Add the sugar and lemon-juice to the berries; mash and
set aside I hour. Strain through a sieve; add the water.
Freeze as directed for Lemon Water-ice. The beaten whites
of 2 eggs may be added. See above.
FROZEN PEACHES.
PECHES GLACEES.
2 pounds of peaches, I quart of water,
6 peach kernels, Iy£ pounds of sugar.
Peel and mash the peaches, removing the stones. Pound
the kernels smooth. Add them to the sugar. Boil the sugar
and water together for 5 minutes. Strain and set away to
cool. When cold, add to it the mashed peaches. Put into
the freezer and freeze as directed for Lemon Water-ice.
FROZEN STRA WBERRIES.
- FRAISES GLACEES.
I quart of strawberries, 1 pound of sugar,
Juice of 2 lemons, 1 quart of water.
Put the sugar and lemon-juice with the berries. Let
stand 1 hour. Mash the berries; add the water; stir.
When the sugar is quite melted, turn into the freezer and
freeze according to directions for Lemon Water-ice.


FROZEN PUNCH.
503
CURRANT SHERBET.
GLACE A LA GROSEILLE.
I pint of currant-juice, 1 pound of sugar.
I " "water, 3 whites of eggs.
Dissolve the sugar in the boiling water. When cool, add
it to the strained juice. Freeze. When the crank turns
very hard, open the freezer; add the whites beaten to a
stiff froth. Close the freezer carefully; turn again until
very stiff, and finish as directed (see General Directions
for Freezing Ice-Creams).
STRAWBERRY SHERBET.
GLACE A LA FRAISE.
Juice of 2 quarts of berries mashed 2 pounds of sugar, dissolved in the
and strained, water,
Equal quantity of water, 4 whites of eggs.
Mash the berries; cover with the sugar; let stand 1 hour
or more; then press .out the juice, add the water, and freeze
as above; add the whites of eggs lastly. Close carefully;
freeze again (see General Directions for Freezing Ice-Creams).
ROMAN PUNCH.
PONCHE A LA ROMAINE.
I quart of lemon water-ice, I teaspoon of vanilla,
}4 pint of Jamaica rum, }4 pint of champagne,
1 gill of maraschino.
Freeze the Lemon Water-ice (see receipt) very hard; then
add slowly the liquors. Beat well. Pack and cover the
freezer; carefully cover and stand it away for 4 or 5 hours.
It will not freeze perfectly firm on account of the alcohol.
Serve in glasses.
FROZEN PUNCH.
SORBET.
6 lemons, 1 gill rum,
2 oranges, yi, pint champagne,
I pound powdered sugar, ^ gill brandy,
1 pint water.
Peel the oranges and lemons, and squeeze out all the juice.
Dissolve the sugar in the boiling water, and, when cold, add


506
GOOD-LIVING.
thin syrup from them. Set aside to cool. When cold,
screw the tops on. If in open jars, cover first with brandied
papers, then with white paper fastened on with flour-paste.
Clean, label, and set away.
Pears may be preserved according to above receipt.
BRANDIED PEACHES.
Select for this purpose white peaches that are not too ripe:
Morris Whites, Smocks, or White Heath, are considered
best for the purpose. Peel very carefully, so that the mark
of the knife shall not be visible. If well done, this saves, too,
the troublesome process of skinning with lye. Melt in a
porcelain-lined kettle 2 pounds of granulated sugar in 3
quarts of water. Weigh the fruit; then put in the peaches,
a few at a time, to scald. When they are boiled tender, so
that they can be pierced with a broom-whisp, skim them out
and lay on a platter. When all are scalded (taking care not
to cook them too much), make a syrup as follows: Take
one half the weight of peaches in sugar. Allow 1 gill of
the first syrup to every pound of fresh sugar. Put it into
the kettle and bring it slowly to a boil. It will take some
time for the sugar to dissolve. It must boil up rapidly once,
then be stood aside to settle. Skim then, not before.
Then bring to a boil again. Put the peaches into this
strong syrup, a few at a time. Scald for about 5 minutes;
remove to jars. When all the peaches are cooked, boil
down the syrup for 10 to 20 minutes, until very thick,
taking care not to scorch it. Skim again. Drain the syrup
from the jars. Fill the jars \ with the rich syrup. Fill to
the top with the best 4th-proof French brandy. Cover and
set away. Much care and taste must be used in handling
and packing the fruit in jars. If liked, crack the stones and
put 6 peeled kernels to each pint-jar.
N. B.—To peel the kernels, throw boiling water over, and
stand 5 or 10 minutes, when the skins will come off easily.


508
GOOD LIVING.
and sugar. When well-skimmed (our best Havemeyer &
Elder or Moller brands require hardly any skimming), put
into the syrup the watermelon, the sliced lemon, and the
ginger, if it is yet tender. You can also add a little of
the water in which the ginger has been boiled, if it is very
pungent and strong. It will improve the flavor decidedly.
Boil until the rind has filled out again thoroughly, and looks
rich and transparent; then skim out the fruit into jars or
tumblers; boil down the syrup for 15 or 20 minutes; pour
the syrup over the fruit generously, and your preserved
watermelon-rind is completed. It keeps admirably, and,
though complicated, is not really troublesome. Citrons and
drumheads may be treated as above.
PRESERVED PLUMS.
Make a Syrup for Preserves, as directed. When boiling
again, after being well skimmed, drop in, a few at a time,
plums which you have previously pricked with a coarse
needle. Half of the stem may be left on, but this is not rec-
ommended. Boil the fruit very gently in the syrup for 20
minutes or more, until thoroughly soaked through. Then
remove the fruit with a skimmer. Pack it in jars, |-full.
Boil down the syrup 20 minutes or more until quite thick;
fill the jars to the top and set away to cool. Next day finish
as directed for Peaches Preserved in Syrup.
CHERRIES PRESERVED IN SYRUP.
Prepare a Syrup for Preserves, as directed.
Cut ^ the stem off of the cherries. Proceed as above
directed for plums; boiling perhaps a few minutes less, say
15 instead of 20 minutes. Finish as directed for Peaches
Preserved in Syrup.
PEA CH S WEE TMEA TS.
Allow I pound of granulated sugar to I pound of fruit, 6
kernels to every pint jar.


BLACKBERRY SWEETMEATS.
Weigh the fruit; pare, and cut in \. Put it into the kettle
and stand on one side. When the juice begins to run, add
the sugar; when it dissolves, bring the kettle forward and
let it boil until the peaches are thoroughly tender, as much
cooked as they can be without going to pieces. Skim the
fruit out. Drain. Fill the jars. Let the syrup boil quickly
for 20 minutes, taking care that it does not scorch. Draw
to one side and skim; then fill the jars. Cool; cover ; wash,
and set away. These are very simple and keep well.
STRA WBERRY SWEET ME A TS.
2 pounds of granulated sugar, 2 heaping pints of very large berries,
2 gills of boiling water.
Put the sugar in a china-lined preserving kettle with the
water; stand it on one side of the range until the sugar is dis-
solved; then draw it forward, and, when boiling, put in the
fruit. Boil about 10 m1nutes or more until the fruit is clear;
boil very gently, or the berries will break. Put them in
tumblers or jars while the syrup boils down about 20 min-
utes, or more, according to the wateriness of the fruit. The
syrup must be rich and thick. Draw aside and let it settle;
then skim. Boil up once more and pour over the fruit, hav-
ing first drained from it the thin syrup; cover. If any syrup
remains over, add to it enough vinegar to flavor; boil up;
bottle and cork. It will make a refreshing drink after the
style of Raspberry Vinegar. Great care must be taken to
keep the berries not only whole but round, therefore while
the jars are cooling, screw the covers on tightly; turn the
jars from side to side, to prevent settling flat.
BLACKBERRY SWEETMEA TS.
Allow 1 pound of granulated sugar to 1 pound of fruit.
Choose by preference the Lawtons for this purpose. Put the
fruit into a porcelain-lined kettle and set on a very moderate
fire until enough juice is drawn out to prevent scorching.
Boil until perfectly tender, 10 or 15 minutes at least; then


GOOD-LIVING.
add the sugar; mix very carefully, not to bruise the fruit. Do
not boil again. Just as soon as the sugar is thoroughly dis-
solved, fill the jars as quickly as possible. Cover immediately.
For Blackberry Jam, stir the fruit constantly and boil hard
for 20 minutes, allowing f of a pound of sugar to 1 pound of
fruit.
CURRANT SWEETMEATS.
Allow 1 pound of sugar to 1 pound of fruit.
Pick over the fruit carefully, removing stems, leaves, etc.
Weigh the fruit. Put it into a china-lined kettle and warm
slowly. Stew gently from 20 to 30 minutes. Then add the
sugar. Mix it through the fruit very carefully; do not mash
it. Do not boil again. Just as soon as the sugar is perfectly
dissolved, fill the jars quickly; cover cold, and set away.
White currants and black may also be used as above.
CHERR Y S WEE TMEA TS.
May be prepared as above, as, indeed, may nearly all
small fruits.
GRAPE SWEETMEATS.
Allow £ of a pound of sugar to 1 pound of fruit.
Select, by preference, Isabellas, or some good, out-door,
black grape. Weigh the fruit. With your fingers, squeeze
the pulp from the skin of each grape, throwing the pulps
into one bowl, the skins into another. This is called
"popping" (not the question, but) the grapes. When done,
put the pulp into a porcelain-lined kettle on the fire. Heat
gradually, and then stew gently for about 15 minutes until,
by testing, you will find that the seeds come out easily.
Turn them into a coarse sieve and press all the juice and
pulp through, leaving behind only the seeds. Now put pulp
and skins back on the fire in the same kettle, and, when boil-
ing, add the sugar, and continue to boil for about 30 minutes;
it should, by this time, be a rich dark color, and quite thick;
if not, boil 15 minutes longer. Put into jars or glasses; when
cold, screw on the covers, wash, and set away.


CURRANT JELLY.
5"
GRAPE JELLY.
Proceed exactly as above, up to the point where the sugar
is to be added'. When the pulps and skins have boiled
together 15 minutes, dip out some of the juice (it need not
be strained), but no skins. To every pint of juice, allow 1
pound of sugar. Bring the juice to a rapid boil for 10 min-
utes; then add the sugar, and, when thoroughly dissolved,
put into glasses. When cold, cover. This jelly is never as
clear or as firm as Currant Jelly, but is very good, and serves
as a useful substitute for the latter in many cases. It is well
to make the jelly at the same time as the preserves, as it
saves trouble and time. It is useless to strain the above, as
it is never transparent under any circumstances.
CURRANT JELLY.
"The following receipt has three advantages: first, it
never fails; secondly, it requires but half the usual quantity of
sugar; thirdly, it is far less trouble than the usual method."
With such a recommendation from its author, it is felt safe
to give the receipt.
Weigh the currants without removing the stems. Do not
wash them, but carefully remove all leaves and twigs that
may adhere to them. To each pound of fruit, allow £ the
weight in granulated sugar. Put a few currants .into a
porcelain-lined preserve-kettle. Mash them to provide juice
enough to prevent scorching. Then add the rest of the
fruit; heat gradually; then boil briskly for 20 minutes,
stirring occasionally to prevent scorching. Then transfer to
a close, strong jelly-bag, letting the liquid run into earthen
or wooden vessels, never into tin, the acid of the fruit acting
on the tin, affecting both color and flavor. When strained,
return the juice to the kettle, without measuring. Bring it
to a boil. Let it boil hard for a minute or 2, then add the
sugar. The very instant the sugar is entirely dissolved, the
jelly is ready, and must immediately be put into glasses. It
will jelly in the cup as it is being taken up.—Mrs. Henderson
in "Practical Cooking and Dinner-Giving"


GOOD-LIVING.
Gather the currants for jelly as soon as ripe; they will not
jelly as well if allowed to get too ripe, as the pulp softens.
Never gather fruit for jelly or preserves while wet with rain,
or immediately after a rain. They must be entirely free
from dampness, as well as from moisture. The first week in
July, in these latitudes, is generally the best (and hottest!)
time for making currant jelly. The above receipt may also
be followed for Raspberry and Currant Jelly, using the fruits
in equal quantities, or \ currants to \ raspberries. It is
much more delicate and delicious than that made from
currants alone.
PEACH MARMALADE.
To every pound of fruit, allow \ of a pound of sugar.
Peel the peaches, and cut in small pieces, having previously
weighed them. Put the fruit and sugar into a porcelain-
lined preserving-kettle. Stir frequently to prevent scorching.
Set the kettle where it will simmer steadily and gently. Let
it cook, stirring frequently, for about 5 hours, until boiled
down to thick marmalade. Crack and skin a handful of
kernels, and add to the kettle. The marmalade will be
ready to remove from the fire in 4£ to 5 hours, according to
the heat of the fire. Skim. Put in glasses or jam-pots. It
will keep for a long time, and is a most satisfactory preserve,
giving very little trouble.
N. B.—Do not boil it until it is dark brown, as is often
done, nor until as thick as paste; it will become thicker as
well as darker when put away.
PINE-APPLE MARMALADE.
Allow 1 pound of sugar to every pound of fruit.
Weigh the fruit; then peel, take out the eyes, and grate the
pine-apples coarsely. Put them, pulp and sugar, in a china-
lined preserve-kettle on the fire. Heat gradually. Stir
often. Cook very gently, but steadily, until clear and thick,
which may require perhaps as much as 3 to 3£ hours. Put
into tumblers, and, when cold, cover.


MOLASSES CANDY.
TO KEEP PIE-PLANT.
Wash out preserve jars, and fill them with cold water. Cut
the rhubarb, or pie-plant, into lengths of 2 inches. Peel or
not, as you prefer. Throw the rhubarb into the jars. As
they fill, the water will overflow. When full, screw the tops
on the jars and set away. The water excludes the air, and
the fruit, treated in this way, will keep for months. When
required for use, drain off the water, and cook according to
any of the usual modes.
JAMBOREE.
7yi pints of grape juice, Ground cinnamon,
Zyi pounds of pears, peeled and cut fine, "allspice,
%yi " "apples," "cloves,
12 pounds sugar.
Prepare the grapes as for Grape Jelly (see receipt), allowing
£ pound of sugar to every pint of juice. When it has boiled
rapidly for 20 minutes, put this syrup into a large kettle with
the pears, apples, and sugar, allowing \ a pound of sugar to
1 pound of pears and apples. Bring to a boil; then set aside
where it will simmer gently, but without interruption. Stir
very often, and mash the fruit as smooth as possible. After
4 hours and 30 minutes, add ground spices, as above, using
very little cloves. Mix well. Continue to boil for about 6
hours in all. Then, if like thick batter, put into jars. When
cold (after 1 or 2 days), cover. The jamboree should be
almost of the consistency of apple-butter.
MOLASSES CANDY.
I cup of New Orleans molasses, I cup of brown sugar,
I tablespoon of vinegar, I ounce of melted butter.
Mix and boil together, without stirring, for about 25 min-
utes, until it hardens when a little is dropped into cold
water. Add I level teaspoonful of baking-soda, and stir only
just enough to mix. Pour immediately into shallow, well-
33


GOOD-UVWG.
buttered tins, and set away until hard. Or, pull it, dipping
the hands, during the process, in ice-water or in melted
butter.
PEA-NUT CANDY.
Remove shells and skins from the nuts; almost fill the
greased pans with them; pour over them the hot Molasses
Candy (see above) when sufficiently boiled, and set away in a
cool place to harden.
PECAN-NUT CANDY.
4 pounds of brown sugar, I pound of butter,
I quart of kernels, 'pint of boiling water.
Put the sugar in a saucepan with the boiling water. Boil
hard for 20 minutes. Add the butter. Boil 5 minutes. Stir
hard. Add the nuts. When it comes again to a boil, pour
it into small buttered tins or saucers, and set away to harden.
BLACK-WALNUT CANDY.
Make exactly according to above receipt.
CARAMELS.
1 cup of molasses, I cup of brown sugar,
2 cups " grated chocolate, 1 " "white"
2 " "cream (sweet), Vanilla to taste,
1 teaspoon of flour.
Mix together to a smooth paste the flour, chocolate, and
some of the cream. Boil 30 minutes, with the sugars, cream,
and flavoring. Pour into greased, flat pans, and when almost
cold, mark in squares with a knife.



PICKLES, CATSUPS, ETC.
NOTE.—Nearly all pickles are much improved by being
allowed to stand some time before being used.
GREEN TOMATO SOY.
2 gallons sliced green tomatoes, 2 tablespoons of salt,
12 large onions, sliced, 2" "ground mustard,
12 green peppers," 2" "black pepper,
2 quarts best cider vinegar, I tablespoon of allspice,
I quart brown sugar, I " "cloves.
Stew all together until tender, stirring often to prevent
burning. They will require about 5 hours' slow boiling.
Put up in small glass jars, letting the vinegar cover the
pickles well. The pickle should be allowed to stand some
time before using.
GREEN TOM A TO PICKLES.
1 cup of salt, I tablespoon of ground mustard seed.
2 pounds of brown sugar, ^ teaspoon of red pepper, or pods in
1 gallon of best cider vinegar, strips,
I tablespoon of white mustard seed, 2 quarts of boiling water,
whole, 1 peck of green tomatoes, sliced,
6 large onions (white), chopped fine.
Sprinkle the tomatoes and onions with salt and stand over-
night. Next day, drain. Boil 15 minutes in 2 quarts of
boiling water and 1 quart of vinegar. Drain again. Pre-
pare the pickle with the rest of the vinegar and spices; add
the tomatoes and onions to it. Boil 2 hours, stirring fre-
quently to prevent scorching. Put into jars while hot. Let
the vinegar cover the pickle well. Close and set away.
Recommended.
5i5


GOOD-LIVING.
BLACK PICKLE.
I peck of green tomatoes, sliced, I ounce ground cloves,
Handful of salt, I" "ginger,
I pint brown sugar, I" "pepper,
1 gallon best vinegar, I" "allspice,
2 ounces dry mustard.
Throw the salt over the sliced tomatoes; let them stand
overnight. In the morning, squeeze out the salt, and put
the tomatoes in the kettle. Mix the spices, etc., together in
a bowl. Sprinkle them over the tomatoes. Add the vine-
gar, and let all boil slowly for 5 hours, stirring frequently to
avoid burning. Put the pickles in jars. Let the vinegar
cover the pickles well. Cork and seal the jars. It will keep
for years (if allowed to).
This is an old-fashioned receipt, and is worthy of being
perpetuated.
CELERY PICKLE.
% pound white mustard seed, 2 tablespoons of salt,
2 quarts of chopped white cabbage, 4 or 5 tablespoons of sugar,
2 " " " celery, ^ ounce white ginger-root (crushed
3 " "vinegar, best, in a mortar),
ounce turmeric.
Boil all together, in a porcelain-lined kettle, slowly for 4 or
5 hours (no longer), until the cabbage and celery are perfectly
tender. Put into jars. Let the vinegar cover the pickle
well; cork tightly. Do not let the pickle boil hard at any
time.
PEPPER PICKLE.
25 green peppers, Vinegar to cover,
Double their bulk in cabbage, 1 tablespoon of mustard seed,
2 gills of salt, I " "ground cloves,
1 tablespoon of ground allspice.
Remove the seeds from the peppers and chop the fruit.
Chop the cabbage. Add all the other ingredients; cover
with cold vinegar. Put in jars, being careful that the vine-
gar covers the pickles. Cork tightly.
Use a napkin or cotton gloves to prepare the peppers, or
they will burn your hands.


GOOD-LIVING.
PICKLED ONIONS.
To I quart of vinegar allow:
2 tablespoons whole allspice, 2 tablespoons whole black pepper.
The onions should be of the smallest, white, ripe, and dry.
Remove the first skin with the fingers; the second skin with
a silver knife; (steel spoils the color of the onions). Pack
in well-washed and dried bottles or jars. Pour over the
onions sufficient cold vinegar to cover, seasoned with pepper
and allspice in the above proportions. Be careful that the
vinegar covers the onions well. Cover and tie down tightly,
to exclude the air. In a fortnight the onions will be ready
for use. The above receipt is simple, and the onions nice
and crisp. They should, however, not be kept more than
6 or 8 months, or they may soften. Mason's Latest Improved
Jars are recommended for this purpose.
PICKLE HASH.
medium-sized cabbage, I large or 2 small Spanish onions,
4 large heads of celery, 2 cucumbers,
4 tablespoons of grated horse-radish, I red and I green pepper,
6 large green tomatoes, Best cider vinegar.
Chop all and mix together. Put a layer 2 inches deep in
a crock; sprinkle with I tablespoonful of salt; then put
another layer of vegetables and salt, and so on until all are
used. Let stand 24 hours. Drain. Press out all liquid.
Cover with boiling water. Let stand 10 minutes, then press
out all moisture with the hands. Bring the vinegar to a
boil. To every quart of vinegar, add \ teaspoonful of pow-
dered alum, and dissolve. Put the vegetables in the jar 2
inches deep; sprinkle with mustard-seed, black pepper, and
horse-radish; another layer of vegetables, another of spices,
and so on. Pour over this the boiling vinegar. Let it cover
the pickle well. Cover tightly. Let stand a few days.
Keeps well.


SPICED PEACHES.
PICKLED GHERKINS OR SMALL CUCUMBERS.
Scald with brine and set aside in the brine 24 hours.
Drain dry and wipe. Put in jars. Throw over them well-
spiced boiling vinegar (see receipt for Green Tomato Pickles).
Let stand 2 weeks or longer before using. The vinegar must
cover the pickles well.
PICKLED STRING-BEANS.
Lay young, tender beans in strong brine overnight.
Drain and dry. Fill jars with them. Cover with hot, spiced
vinegar (see Green Tomato Pickles), with \ teaspoonful of
powdered alum to 1 quart of vinegar. Let the vinegar
cover the pickles well. Cork, and set away for 6 weeks at
least.
PICKLED CAULIFLOWER.
Scald until tender; separate the flowerets; drain and fin-
ish as Pickled String-Beans.
GREEN TOMATO SWEET PICKLE.
Pare 2 pounds of firm green tomatoes. Boil them in hot
vinegar and water (£ of each) for 30 minutes. Make a syrup
of 1 pint of strong vinegar and 1£ pounds of brown sugar
for every 2 pounds of the tomatoes. Spice to taste with
cinnamon, mace, and ginger-root (all whole). Boil 20 min-
utes. Drain the tomatoes from the plain vinegar and water;
put them into the syrup and boil 45 minutes. Put into pre-
serve jars; cover well with the syrup; when cool, close and
set away.
SPICED PEACHES.
7 pounds peaches, ^ ounce stick-cinnamon,
3 " brown sugar, ^ " whole cloves,
I quart vinegar.
Let the sugar, spices, and vinegar simmer gently while
peeling the peaches; then boil all together until the fruit is
tender. Put in jars and cork tightly. Let the vinegar cover
the fruit well.


S20
GOOD-LIVING.
PEPPER VINEGAR.
Fill a small bottle £-full of very small cherry peppers of
chillies; fill it up with best wine or cider vinegar. Will be
ready for use in a few days. The older it grows, the stronger
and better it is. The bottle may be filled up with vinegar
as it diminishes. Two or 3 drops for a plate of soup or salad
will be found sufficient.
SPIRITS OF PEPPER.
Fill a small bottle, as above, £-full of peppers; fill it up
with pure alcohol. Cork tightly and set away for several
months, or even years. It is improved by time. Use, as
above, for soups, salads, sauces, etc.
TARRAGON VINEGAR.
VINAIGRE A L'ESTRAGON.
Put into a clean quart bottle \ pint of tarragon leaves; fill
it with best wine or cider vinegar. Steep for 2 weeks. Then
strain through a flannel bag; bottle, cork, and seal. Set
away in a cool place.
CUCUMBER CATSUP.
Pare, split, remove the seeds, and grate the cucumbers.
Allow to each pint of pulp:
% pint good vinegar (cold), 1 teaspoon salt,
% teaspoon cayenne, 2 level tablespoons of grated horse-radish.
Drain the pulp before adding to it the other ingredients.
Bottle, cork tightly, and seal. The horse-radish may be
omitted.
TOMA TO CA TSUP NO. I.
1 bushel of ripe tomatoes, 1 yi ounces black pepper, ground,
gallon best vinegar, 1yi " allspice, ground,
Yz pound brown sugar, 2 "mustard,"
Yz pint of salt, I ounce ginger,"
I " "alcohol, % "cloves,"
y& ounce cayenne, ground, % "garlic, chopped fine.
Boil the tomatoes whole in a china-lined kettle for 30
minutes. Press through a coarse sieve all except seeds and


TO MAKE GOOD TEA.
523
AFTER-DINNER DRIP-COFFEE.
CAFE NOIR.
Make exactly the same as Drip-Coffee for Breakfast,
allowing \ the usual quantity of boiling water to the amount
of coffee indicated. Serve at the same time a small pitcher
of very sweet cream. If the cream is not fresh as well as
sweet, the heat of the coffee will curdle it.
BOILED COFFEE.
Allow the same proportions as for Drip-Coffee that is, 1
heaping tablespoon of ground coffee to each cup, and I for
the pot. Mix with the raw grounds the white of I egg to
about 5 cups of coffee, and \ cup of cold water. Crush the
shell of the egg and throw it into the coffee-pot. Put in the
coffee and white of egg, then pour on freshly-boiled water to
the amount required; close lid and spout tightly. Let it
boil for about 3 minutes hard, then throw in about a wine-
glassful of cold water to settle it; draw it a little aside,
where it will keep very hot but not boil, and let stand 10
or 15 minutes; serve then, immediately, with boiled milk.
Breakfast coffee with cream need not be quite as strong as
that drunk with milk, as the latter serves to dilute it more.
In making coffee (especially boiled coffee) be sure that the
spout is tightly closed, as well as the lid, to keep in the
aroma. There are many varieties of coffee-pots, each having
with it the directions for its special use. The above receipt
is for a plain coffee-pot.
TO MAKE GOOD TEA.
Put the tea-kettle on the fire, filled with fresh, cold water,
and bring it to a boil. Select a tea-pot of an appropriate
size for the quantity of tea you wish to make; that is, for a
few cups do not use a large tea-pot. As soon as the water
comes to a boil, pour some of it into the tea-pot and let it stand
on the corner of the range for 1 or 2 minutes, until it is


EGG AND WINE.
525
and boil 5 minutes over boiling water. Remove; beat with
a Dover egg-beater until light and smooth. Serve with the
whipped cream heaped upon the chocolate in the cup.
COCOA, BROMA, RACAHOUT.
These all have the directions for making printed on the
package.
ICED COCOA AS A SUMMER DRINK.
This is very wholesome and innocuous. Follow directions
for the proportions given on the package, using £ of the
liquid allowed, and that water. When made and well-
sweetened, put it away on the ice. Put cracked ice in a
tumbler; put £ of cold cocoa, fill with ice-cold milk. Or,
have the cocoa made in the proportion of } of the liquid
allowed; sweeten, cool it, and use with 3 parts of soda-water.
It is nourishing as well as refreshing.
EGG-NOGG.
3 gills of rum, I pound powdered sugar, scant,
I gill of brandy, I nutmeg, grated,
I quart of cream, I teaspoon of ground mace,
10 eggs, beaten, whites and yolks apart.
Beat the yolks to a cream; add to them the other ingredi-
ents; adding the whites, beaten to a stiff froth, just before
the cream. If bottled and put in a cold place, will keep 3 or
4 days, but must be shaken before being used. Recom-
mended.
EGG AND WINE.
Break the white of 1 egg upon a plate, the yolk into a
tumbler. Beat the yolk to a cream with a small teaspoonful
of powdered sugar; add one teaspoon of sherry wine or £
the quantity of brandy or rum. Beat the white to a stiff
froth; then beat this into the yolk until evenly and thor-
oughly mixed. A little chopped ice may be beaten with the
yolk of egg. Grate a little nutmeg over the top and serve
very cold. This is excellent for delicate people and in-
valids.


526
GOOD-LIVING.
MULLED CLARET.
VIN CHAUD.
1 cup of claret, 1 cup of boiling water,
Grated nutmeg, 2 or 3 tablespoons of soft sugar,
6 whole cloves, 12 whole allspice,
4 inches stick-cinnamon.
Boil the water with sugar and spices for 10 to 15 minutes,
until thoroughly flavored with the spices. Dissolve the
sugar in it. Remove from the fire and pour into a covered
pitcher through a strainer. Have the claret in the pitcher.
Add a little nutmeg, and more sugar if necessary. Serve
immediately.
TEA-PUNCH.
PONCHE AU THE.
6 lemons, I quart of strong green tea,
1 Y pounds of granulated sugar, I " "Jamaica rum.
Peel the thin yellow rind from the lemons; squeeze the
juice. Add these to the sugar. Pour the tea, while boiling,
over the sugar. Add the rum. Bottle, and stand away for
use. Less rum may be used if preferred. It should be
diluted with ice before being used.
BLA CKBERR Y CORDIAL.
2 pounds of sugar, % ounce of ground nutmeg,
Yz ounce of ground cinnamon, Y" "cloves,
Y" "allspice, 1 pint of 4th-proof best French brandy,
2 quarts of blackberry-juice.
Boil the juice, sugar, and spices 2 hours. Strain. Then
add immediately the brandy. Bottle while hot; cork, seal,
and set away.
GINGER-BEER.
1 Yi pounds granulated sugar, 2 ounces bruised ginger-root,
2 ounces cream of tartar, Juice and rind of 1 lemon,
4 quarts of boiling water, 1 tablespoon of yeast (or yeast cake).
Put all the ingredients in a bowl with the water, adding
the yeast when lukewarm. In 6 hours strain; put in bottles
with patent tops, for it becomes effervescent. Keep in a
cool place.


CURRANT WINE.
ROOT-BEER.
The roots come already prepared in small packages with
directions for use. To be had at the grocers.
RASPBERRY VINEGAR.
VINAIGRE FRAMBOISE.
I quart of vinegar, 6 quarts of raspberries,
Sugar.
Pour the vinegar over 3 quarts of ripe raspberries in a
crock; let them steep 24 hours. Strain. Pour this liquor
over 3 quarts of fresh raspberries, and let it infuse again 24
hours. Strain again. Measure the juice, and add 1 pound
of white sugar to each pint of juice. Boil 20 minutes; skim,
bottle cold. To drink, mix \ syrup with \ water.
LEMON BRANDY.
1 p'nt of brandy, 2 ounces of granulated sugar,
Yellow rind of 2 lemons, 1 gill of boiling water.
Put the yellow rind (no white) into a bottle with the
brandy. Let it infuse 24 hours. Strain. Boil the sugar
and water for about 4 minutes. Skim. When cold, add to
the brandy. Bottle and cork tightly. Use as a flavoring for
custards and other desserts.
CURRANT WINE.
To 1 quart of juice allow:
2 quarts of water (cold), 3 pounds of sugar, granulated.
Stir all well together. Let stand 24 hours. Skim. Set
in a cool place. Allow it to ferment slowly for 3 or 4 days.
If at the end of that time it has ceased fermenting, add 1
quart of brandy to every 15 gallons of the above mixture.
Close the barrel tightly, and when it has settled and become
clear, it is ready to bottle. Keep 6 months before using.
Improves with age.


528
GOOD-LIVING.
PHILADELPHIA FISH-HOUSE PUNCH.
To every pint of lemon- or lime-juice add 3 pints of the
mixture given below:
}4 pint of Jamaica rum, 1 gill of cognac,
1 gill of best peach brandy, 4 pounds of loaf sugar,
5 quarts of water.
When ice is added, use less water.
KUMMEL CORDIAL.
2 pounds of granulated sugar, 1 quart of best alcohol,
1 quart and 1 gill of boiling water, 25 to 30 drops of Kttmmel Oil.
Pour the boiling water on the sugar in a china-lined pre-
serving-kettle. Stir over the fire until dissolved. Bring to
a boil. From the moment it breaks into a boil, allow it to
boil 20 minutes. Set aside to cool. Strain. When luke-
warm, add the alcohol and oil. Stir to mix thoroughly.
Bottle and set away. Keep at least 1 month before using.
This improves with age. German apothecaries sell this oil.
Recommended.


53°
GOOD-LIVING.
Cork tightly; put the bottle into a pot of lukewarm water
and let it come gradually to a boil. Boil 3 or 4 hours. It
may be used after 2 hours, but is even better if cooked longer.
Uncork; strain and serve with toast. This is acceptable to
many invalids who do not like ordinary beef-tea.
FLOUR-BALL FOR INFANTS' FOOD.
Tie 1 pint of flour as closely as possible in a strong cotton
cloth. Put it into a pot of boiling water and boil 4 hours.
Be sure it is well-covered with water. The pot should be
covered. Then take the ball out and set aside to cool. To
use it, scrape a little of the ball; mix with cold water or
milk; stir into boiling milk; season with a pinch of salt;
make thicker or thinner as may be required. The flour-ball
will keep in a cool, dry place for weeks.
KUMYSS.
I quart of new milk, I tablespoon of brewer's yeast,
2 tablespoons of Trommer Malt Extract.
Mix and set by the range at a temperature of 900 Fahr.
until it begins to work, then pour it off into self-sealing
beer-bottles and set in a cool place. Recommended.
PARCHED RICE.
Roast the rice until of a rich, even brown. Throw into
salted boiling water and boil until perfectly tender. Do not
stir if it can be avoided. Drain. Serve with sugar.
RICE-WATER.
Proceed as above, boiling the rice a little longer. Strain
out the grains, and use the water.
TOAST-WATER.
Cut slices of stale bread; toast over a slow fire until very
dry and evenly brown, not burned. Put into a pitcher;
cover with boiling water. Infuse for 1 or 2 hours; strain
the water and use.


534
GOOD-LIVING.
TO SELECT LOBSTERS.
If possible, never buy a lobster that is already boiled. If
unavoidable, however, you may ascertain the condition of
the lobster, when cooked, by pressing the tail outward. If
it is elastic and, when released, flies back instantly to its first
position, you may know that it was alive when put down to
boil. The tail should be curled inward as an indication also
of the same fact.
VENISON.
Venison is best when it has been frozen and partially
thawed 2 or 3 times. In winter it will keep for 6 weeks, if
hung in the open air. When cut into steaks and set in the
ice-box, it will not keep any longer than other meats.
ROAST TURKEY.
For roasting, select by preference a young hen-turkey.
SWEETBREADS.
Always cook sweetbreads in a china-lined saucepan, and
use a silver or plated knife to cut them, as steel is considered
to be injurious both to flavor and color.
BEEF'S LIVER.
Before cooking sliced beef's liver, always throw boiling
water over it; let it stand 5 minutes; then wipe dry and
proceed with the cooking.
LARDING-PORK.
Larding-pork should be thrown into ice-water before using,
to harden it.
CALF'S HEAD.
In preparing calf's head for cooking, be most careful to
cleanse not only the ears, but also scald out with boiling
water the nose and throat passages.


536
GOOD-LIVING.
dry birds, and this greatly improves them. Do not use
bacon for the purpose, as its flavor is so pronounced that it
overpowers that of the bird.
MEATS TO BE SERVED COLD.
Tongue should be allowed to get cold first in the water in
..iiich it is boiled. If it is to be put away cold afterwards, it
should be rolled in a clean, coarse cloth and set in the ice-
box. Corn-beef should also be allowed to cool in the water
in which it is boiled. A la Mode Beef or Daube should be
put into a large bowl, covered with their own hot gravy,
shut up tight, and set away. Chickens, stewed and fricasseed
should be treated in the same way. Save all the gravy for
the purpose. The usual mode of thrusting the meat into
the ice-box, leaving it to dry out as it cools, is a mistake; it
makes the surfaces dry and juiceless, and, as a rule, most un-
appetizing. When gravy is lacking, a little good broth may
be used to pour over the meat or chicken before it is set
away to cool, covered.
TO MAKE TOUGH MEAT TENDER.
Cut the steaks the day before they are required into
slices about 2 inches thick. Rub the surfaces with a little
baking-soda. Next morning, wash off the soda; cut the
meat into the shape and thickness desired, and cook it to
taste. The same process may be used for poultry, mutton,
etc.
TO MAKE CHICKENS WHITE AND TENDER.
The moment before they are to be killed, make them
swallow 1 tablespoonful of best vinegar, then finish as
usual.
RULE FOR BOILING PEAS, ETC.
Never put the lid on the pot while boiling spinach, peas,
beans, or Brussels sprouts. By observing this rule, the vege
tables will be found to preserve their fresh green color.


STRA Y NOTES.
53;
TO POACH EGGS.
Note that in poaching eggs, the water should not boil
after the egg is put into it, as the jumping of the water in
ebullition makes the edges ragged and untidy. The eggs
should cook slowly and quietly. Be sure, however, that the
water boils when the egg is put in.
WA TER OF BOILED POT A TOES.
The water in which potatoes are boiled with their skins on
is said to be poisonous. It is said to be excellent for de-
stroying green-fly on rose-bushes.
OYSTER-PLANT.
Never expose this to the air when once it is scraped.
Throw it immediately into cold water. Cook in a china-
lined saucepan, as iron also discolors it.
TO PEEL ONIONS.
Put the onions in a bowl of cold water. Peel them with a
sharp knife under water. This saves tears.
TO BOIL CAULIFLOWER.
To prevent breaking the flower, tie it in a piece of clean
cheese-cloth. When boiled, it can be raised out of the pot
by the tied corners of the cloth without risk of injuring the
beauty of the cauliflower.
TO SOFTEN THE WATER FOR BOILING
VEGETABLES.
Use a pinch of bi-carbonate of soda for softening the water
in which to boil beans, limas, asparagus tips, etc., only when
the water is very hard, or the peas very old.


STRA y NOTES.
BREAD-CRUMBS.
These are so valuable in the kitchen, and in such constant
demand, that it is well to make every few days a supply to
keep on hand. Put any pieces of stale bread there may be
in a roasting-pan; stand it in the open oven until perfectly
dry, but not at all brown. Roll these out on a board with
the rolling-pin. Sift them. The very finest, put into a
separate jar for dipping oysters and croquettes; others may
be used for breading meats, baked dishes, etc. The stock of
bread-crumbs should never be allowed to run out. Another
excellent way to crumb the bread is to put it, when dried,
into a coarse, clean cloth and beat it with a potato-masher.
Sift as directed.
CRUMBED HARD EGGS.
These may be used as a variety to sift over sweetbreads or
chicken, etc., "en caisses," instead of bread-crumbs. When
the eggs are boiled hard, remove the whites and press the
yolks through a coarse sieve with the potato-masher.
DIPPING FOR FRYING.
It is recommended by some authorities to dip certain arti-
cles such as fish, first in breadcrumbs, then in egg, and again
in crumbs. This process makes the dipping cling better.
The French dip meat-cutlets and chops into crumbs only, if
perfectly freshly cut; or into melted butter and then into
crumbs. For croquettes, where it is necessary sometimes to
have a firmer covering, they may be dipped twice, always
alternating, first in the egg, then the crumbs, allowing the
croquettes to stand some time before the second dipping.
It is recommended also by the above-mentioned authority, to
mix a little melted butter with the yolk of egg where this
latter is used for dipping. In all cases the most important
point in successful frying, is that the lard be boiling.


GOOD-LIVING.
TO PRESERVE EGGS.
Dip in melted suet and pack with the smaller end down-
ward in salt. Or, make a solution of 1 gallon of boiling water
poured over I pound of unslacked lime; cool thoroughly
and pour over the eggs which have been packed, small end
downwards, in jars. Do not use the sediment of the lime-
water. Keep in a cool, dark place. The object is to stop
up the pores of the eggs.
TO CLARIFY DRIPPINGS.
Select beef-suet for the purpose by preference, but any fat
trimmings (excepting those of mutton and lamb) may also
be tried out. Cut the suet into moderate-sized pieces. Put
these into a crock with a little boiling water. Set the crock
in a pot of boiling water, and put all in one corner of the
range, where the suet will melt slowly. The fat may be
poured off into a clean bowl as it melts, a little more boiling
water being added. It should always be strained. Next
day collect all the drippings together and put them as above
over boiling water. When melted and brought to boiling
point, strain into a crock and set away. Keep in a cold
place and use for sauteing, etc. All fat should be saved from
soups, etc., and at least once a week be clarified as directed.
This will be found to be a great economy of butter.
TO CLEAN DRIED CURRANTS.
To each quart of dried currants add I cup of flour; rub
them well between the hands. This will free them from
stems, etc. Then turn into a colander and shake out the
stems; put them into a pan of cold water and wash thor-
oughly with both hands. Drain in a colander, letting the
water wash through them until all the remaining stems are
carried off. Then spread them on flat dishes in the mouth
of the oven or other warm place; leave until dry; then use.


STRAY NOTES.
54'
TO STONE RAISINS.
Throw them into a bowl of boiling water. As soon as
they are cool enough to handle, stone them in the water and
throw them into a bowl.
ORANGE-PEEL FOR CAKES.
When oranges are abundant, take the skins. Boil I pound
of these until perfectly tender; chop them fine; to I gill of
the water in which the skins have boiled, add 1 pound of
brown sugar and the skins; boil all together until very thick,
and put into a wide-mouthed jar to use for flavoring.
YEAST.
One cup of yeast is equal to 1 compressed yeast-cake.
BREAD.
A loaf when risen ready for the oven should be at least
twice the size it was when first put in the bread-pan to rise.
TO GREASE BREAD-PANS.
Always grease bread- and cake-pans with lard, not with
butter, as the latter blackens in long baking. When the
loaves come out of the oven, stand them on end, not touch-
ing each other, and cover with a very thin cloth. A thick
cloth makes the crusts soft and soggy. It only requires suf-
cient covering to keep off dust and flies.
TO HE A T THE GRIDDLE FOR GRIDDLE CAKES.
It should be put on the back of the range several hours
before using, that it may heat slowly. When ready, bring
it forward and let it become very hot indeed, but not
scorching.


STRA Y NOTES.
543
BAKING-PO WDER.
Royal Baking-Powder is the best for raising cakes, etc. It
seems to be perfectly harmless, and is certainly stronger than
the others. The next best is Cleveland's, which is also very
good, but not as strong. Where 3 teaspoonfuls of Cleve-
land's are required, 2 of Royal Baking-Powder will be found
to have quite as much effect.
In most cases where baking-powder is required, you may
substitute 1 teaspoonful of cream of tartar and -J- teaspoonful
of soda for 1 of baking-powder.
FRUIT PIES.
In making fruit pies, fasten a narrow band of muslin
around, covering the edge of the pies. When they are
baked, remove the muslin. This keeps in the juice and pre-
vents the besmeared, untidy look which fruit pies generally
have.
THE USE OF RUM IN COOKING.
Rum is an excellent addition, in the way of flavoring, to
many sweet sauces, cakes, etc. Wherever called for by a
receipt, always use Jamaica rum; no other brand is suitable
for the purpose.
CROUTONS AS A GARNISH.
Croutons cut in diamonds about 3 inches long, make a
nice border for sweetbreads, stewed kidneys, fricassees, etc.
When cut in cubes 1 x 2 inches, they make an excellent gar-
nish for stewed fish, besides being an agreeable addition to
the dish.
MUSHROOMS.
Stewed mushrooms may be served on croutons 3x3
inches, or in individual silver casseroles, or in china cases.


544
GOOD-LIVWG.
PASTRY CROUTONS AS A GARNISH.
Roll out Flaky Crust or Puff Paste \ of an inch thick;
cut it in large diamonds, bake, and use to garnish the bor-
ders of stews, etc.
TO SERVE CORN.
There are made at present, in very prettily embroidered
designs, corn-cloths, which replace most advantageously the
prevailing custom of serving green corn in a folded table-
• napkin, to keep it hot.
TO SERVE CROQUETTES, ETC.
Cut papers may be used not only under cakes and sweets,
but may, with great advantage, replace the folded table-
napkin in many cases, especially under croquettes, fried fish,
etc., in fact, under any thing that is fried dry. They are
now made at little cost; the plainer designs are more suita-
ble for the latter purpose, the lace-bordered ones being gen-
erally used for sweets. The English make particularly pretty
designs for the former use.
TO SERVE FRENCH CHOPS, ETC.
French chops, leg of mutton, ham, and barbecued hare or
rabbit should always be served with paper frills to cover the
ends of the bones. These frills are to be had of various
sizes, and at small expense.
TO SERVE WELSH RARE-BITS, ETC.
Use for all dishes made of cheese, a hot-water plate; this
is the only way to accomplish the necessary object of serv-
ing the above perfectly hot.
TO REMOVE FRUIT STAINS FROM LINEN.
Pour boiling water through the spot before washing. Rub.
If this does not succeed, moisten the spot and hold under it
a lighted match. The sulphurous gas will cause the stain to


STRA Y NOTES.
545
disappear, it is said. Should this not be satisfactory, moisten
thf* spot, rub it with a little salts-of-lemon. Hang it in the
sun for a few minutes, then wash out thoroughly. This is
good for extreme cases, but risks removing the fabric with
the spot. Peach stains are especially obstinate, but will be
found to disappear by degrees in the ordinary course of
time and washing.
TO REMOVE MILDEW STAINS.
Soak in milk for 48 hours. Or, rub with lemon-juice and
salt. The same remark applies to these as to peach stains.
THE ICE-BOX.
This is a detail about which many cooks are not suffi-
ciently nice. If the ice-box is not kept perfectly sweet, the
articles of food put into it will not be sweet either. It should
have a very thorough cleaning from top to bottom at least
once a week in winter, twice a week in summer, the water
being emptied every day without fail. When the box is
emptied, and thoroughly cleaned and overhauled, if any
close smell should be perceived, wet a cloth with vinegar,
wash over every part, and then leave the doors open until
dry and well-aired- Allow no corner to be overlooked, if it
is to be kept in perfect condition.
Never allow butter to be kept in the same compartment
of the box with any thing except sweet cream or unopened
bottles. Nothing so quickly absorbs the taste of other
things. The presence of lemons or melcns will destroy
the best butter ever made.
TO PRESERVE ICE IN THE ICE-BOX.
One of the best ways, when one's supply of ice begins to
run short, is to wrap the ice in several thicknesses of news
paper. Wash well before using.


546
GOOD-LIVING.
TO REMOVE RUST FROM STEEL.
Cover the steel with sweet oil, well rubbed in. After 48
hours, rub it with finely-powdered, unslacked lime, until the
rust disappears.
N. B.—Do not let the lime touch the hands or it will
burn them.
REMEDY FOR BURNS.
Grate or scrape a raw potato; cover the burned part with
it. As soon as it becomes hot, renew it; continue to renew
at intervals until relieved. Very simple, but most effica-
cious. Highly recommended.
TO REMOVE THE UNPLEASANT ODOR FROM
FEATHER PILLOWS.
Hang them in a strong wind on a cloudy day; do not
put them in the sun.
NOTE.
In towns, all garbage should be burned; this is by far the
cleanest and healthiest mode of disposing of it, and is per-
fectly practicable.
TO SET THE COLOR IN CALICOES.
Dissolve 2 gills of salt in 1 quart of boiling water, and,
while hot, put the dress into it. Let it remain for several
hours; then dry it, after which wash as usual. Powdered
alum is also used for the same purpose.
TO REMOVE IRON-RUST STAINS FROM LINEN.
When the article is washed, squeeze lemon-juice upon the
spots; cover them with salt; lay them on the grass in the
sun all day. Wash again, and in most cases the spots will
have vanished; if not, repeat the application.


STRA V NOTES.
547
WASH FOR CLEANING GLOVES.
I quart of deodorized benz1ne, I drachm of sulphuric ether,
I drachm of chloroform, 2 drachms of alcohol,
A little cologne or other perfume.
Mix together in a bottle and cork tightly. Wash the
gloves in the preparation as you would wash a handkerchief
in water. It evaporates very rapidly. Hang the gloves in
the open air to dry. This mixture is very inflammable.
WASHING FLUID.
4 gallons of water, Y pound of unslacked lime,
2 pounds of washing soda.
Mix; when settled and cold, skim off all scum. Bring
to a boil; remove from the fire. Let it settle, and pour off
the clear fluid into stone jars for use. Or, bottle it, and cork
tightly. For washing, use I cup of the fluid to 1 pail of
water. This resembles Javelle water.
FURNITURE POLISH.
4 ounces of gum shellac, I pint of alcohol,
I piece of gum benzoin, as large as a hickory-nut.
Mix, and rub on the furniture with a piece of canton-flan,
nel or cotton-batting. If it is sticky, use a little raw oil.


SUPPLEMENTARY RECEIPTS.
549
gar and water (equal parts) in which are a few cloves and
allspice. When the fish are cold, pour the hot vinegar, etc.,
over them; cover and set away. Next day take some of
the trout and remove the flesh from the bones in large
pieces. Lay the pieces loosely in a dish. Prepare a rich
Cream Sauce (see receipt), and pour over the fish. Sprinkle
the top with fine dried bread-crumbs, dot with bits of butter,
and place in the oven for about 10 minutes, until thoroughly
hot.
TROUT SALAD (MURRAY BAY).
TRUITES A LA TARTARE.
Having boiled the trout and put aside in vinegar, as in
preceding receipt, remove the flesh from the bones in con-
veniently large pieces. Lay them in a salad bowl. Make
either a Mustard or a Tartare dressing (see receipts), and
spread over the fish. Place small, crisp lettuce-leaves around
the dish, and the hearts in the centre. Serve very cold.
Salmon treated in the same manner is also delicious.
MATELOTE OF TROUT (MURRAY BAY).
TRUITES EN MATELOTE.
These are excellent prepared exactly as Stewed Fish en
Matelote, the only difference being that the fish (weighing
about I lb. each) should be cooked ;whole, not cut in
pieces.
PLAIN LOBSTER CROQUETTES.
CROQUETTES DE HOMARD.
Meat of a 4 lb. lobster, boiled, Salt, cayenne, and nutmeg to taste,
I teaspoon of chopped parsley, I tablespoon of butter, 2 of flour,
I slice of onion, chopped and fried, I cup of milk.
Chop the lobster and onion as fine as possible. Make a
sauce by blending the butter and flour together over the fire
without browning, then stirring in the boiling milk. Stir


55o
GOOD-LIVING.
and boil until perfectly smooth and thick, about 5 minutes.
Into this stir the lobster-meat, onion, parsley, and season-
ings. Set away. When cold, form into croquettes. Dip
in egg and bread-crumbs, fry golden brown in boiling lard.
Drain dry, and serve very hot.
Prepare exactly according to receipt for Lobster a la
Newberg, substituting scollops which have been boiled for 5
minutes, then thoroughly drained.
Remove all the fat from the beef, which may be cut from
the round. Pound until tender. Cut in neatly shaped
pieces about 2X3 inches. Put a tablespoonful of sweet
drippings into a frying-pan. When very hot, lay in the
pieces of beef. As soon as all are in, begin to turn the first
and so on, in order; then remove them in the same order to
a stew-pan. Now put the onions into a frying-pan and fry
until slightly browned, but be very careful not to burn them.
Add these to the beef, also the thyme, bay-leaf, salt, and
pepper. Barely cover the meat with boiling water and 1 gill
of vinegar. Simmer gently for \ hours. Stir together in
the frying-pan, 1 tablespoonful of flour, and a piece of butter
the size of a walnut. When nicely browned, blend with
some of the sauce of the meat, and stir smooth. Add this
to the stewpan of beef, also a good pinch of sugar. Mix
well, and boil 15 minutes longer. Then, if the meat is
tender, remove it. If not, let it simmer gently a little lon-
ger. Two hours in all should suffice, at most. Allow less
time if a tenderer cut of beef is used. Serve with a border
of plain boiled macaroni or rice, and this will be found most
excellent.
SCOLLOPS A LA NEWBERG.
CARBONADE A LA FLAMANDE.
2^ lbs. of lean beef, sliced,
4 onions cut fine,
Sprig of thyme, 1 bay leaf,
Pepper, salt, sugar,
I gill of vinegar, flour,
Butter or sweet drippings.


SUPPLEMENTARY RECEIPTS. 551
FLEMISH LIVER PIE.
PAIN DE FOIE DE VEAU.
Calf's liver, ) equal weights, 8 eggs, I gill of brandy,
Fresh fat pork, ) Salt and pepper.
Boiled ham, half the weight, Slices of fat pork, salt or fresh.
Chop the meat very fine, using a machine if at hand. Add
the eggs and seasonings. Butter a smooth tin or earthen-
ware mould. Line it throughout with slices of pork cut
very thin. Fill with the mixture, pressed down. Cover
with slices of pork and a buttered paper. Set in a moderate
oven for I hour and 15 to 30 minutes. Set away to cool.
When nearly cold, turn the pate out of the mould, carefully
removing the paper and slices of pork. Garnish with meat-
jelly, and serve with salad.
PHEASANT OR PARTRIDGE—JELLIED.
FAISAN OU PERDREAU A LA GELEE.
Prepare a pheasant or partridge as for roasting, filling the
body with pate de foie gras. Truss it, and sew up carefully.
Set it in a stewpan with enough very good consomme or
bouillon to half cover it. Add a small piece of bay-leaf, a
sprig of thyme, and £ a gill of madeira, salt and pepper.
Cover very closely, and allow it to simmer very gently until
tender. The time will depend upon the age and size of the
bird, say from 45 minutes to 1£ hours. Should the bird
require long cooking, see that the broth does not evaporate,
and if necessary add to it. When tender, remove the strings
from the bird and place it in a small mould or bowl. Strain
the broth, skim it and clear it with the white of an egg. Strain
again, if necessary, through a flannel jelly-bag, and pour
around the bird in a mould. Set away in a cold place.
Serve cold with the jelly around it.
Paris.
ARTICHOKES STUFFED WITH MUSHROOMS.
ARTICHAUTS FARCIS AUX CHAMPIGNONS.
Having boiled some Globe -or French Artichokes (see
receipt), remove the leaves and bristles from the bottom and


552
GOOD-LIVING.
trim the latter neatly. Prepare a stuffing of chopped fresh
mushrooms, a few drops of onion-juice (or a tiny bit of
pounded garlic), chopped parsley, the equivalent bulk of all
three ingredients in stale bread-crumbs, a large lump of but-
ter, salt, cayenne, and lemon-juice. Put the mixture in a
saucepan over the fire and stir until the butter melts and is
absorbed. With this mixture fill the artichokes that you
have prepared. Sprinkle the tops lightly with dried bread-
crumbs, and place in a bake-pan. Dot the tops with bits of
butter. Put a few tablespoonfuls of strong broth in the pan.
Set in the oven until thoroughly heated and delicately
browned—10 to 15 minutes. Have ready small, round crou-
tons the same size as the artichokes. Place a stuffed arti-
choke on each crouton, strain the gravy from the pan over
them and serve very hot. Highly recommended.
N.B.—The " Fonds d'Artichauts " can be procured put up
ready for use.
TOMA TOES BAKED CREOLE STYLE.
TOMATES A LA CREOLE.
Use either fresh or canned tomatoes. If the former, peel
and cut in large pieces before stewing. Put the tomatoes in
a large china-lined stew pan (shallow), with a lump of butter
and half an onion chopped fine. Two cans of tomatoes will be
required to make a dish for 6 or 8 persons. Let them stew
uncovered over a smart fire for 2 hours, stirring occasionally,
and being careful not to allow them to scorch. By this time
the greater part of the juice should have evaporated. Sea-
son the tomatoes with salt, pepper, and a good pinch of
sugar, and put them in an earthenware bake-dish. Cover
the top with bread-crumbs and dots of butter, and put in the
oven for an hour or more, until well browned. Should any
liquid remain, it would be well to let the dish stand longer
in the oven with the door open. They should, when suc-
cessful, be like a rich paste. The heat of the oven must
govern the length of time required to finish them properly.


554
GOOD-LIVING.
the dish place a little mound of hard-boiled eggs, yolks only,
rubbed through the sieve to a powder. Crumb the whites
of the hard eggs with a fork and use to garnish the outer
edge of the salad, together with olives pitted but not stuffed.
Pour over a plain French Dressing (see receipt), and serve
very cold.
SALAD OF TOMATOES STUFFED WITH CELERY.
SALADE DE TOMATES FARCIES AU CELERI.
Select small tomatoes of uniform size. Peel with a sharp
knife and set on ice. Prepare a Tartare Sauce (see receipt),
adding the yolk of I egg. Cut fine the crisp and tender
stalks of celery. Mix thoroughly with the sauce. Now
hollow out the tomatoes and fill the space with the mixture.
Place each tomato on a crisp lettuce-leaf, and serve very
cold.
JELLIED MAC&DOINE OF VEGETABLES.
MACEDOINE DE LEGUMES EN GELEE.
Take equal quantities of cold boiled string-beans, peas,
potatoes, beets, carrots, turnips, and cauliflower, the root-
vegetables being cut into tiny balls. A few very young and
tender radishes may be added. Mix evenly and put into a
border-mould which has been rinsed in cold water. Fill by
degrees with well-flavored clear meat jelly, melted. Set on
ice. When firm, serve with a Tartare Sauce, made with an
egg (see receipt)—the sauce being in the centre.
CASSEROLES SALMONETTES.
Take for 6 or 8 persons about I lb. of cold boiled salmon
cut in small pieces, not shreds. Sprinkle with a little vine-
gar. Fill small, round porcelain casseroles with this. Cover
the fish with a thick layer of Tartare Sauce (see receipt).
Now cut in tiny shreds some red pickled beet; have also
some capers. With these beets and capers decorate the
surface of the sauce with some neatly arranged design.


SUPPLEMENTARY RECEIPTS.
555
Serve very cold. This dainty dish is attractive to the eye
1 as well as pleasing to the palate, and may be served as a
relish at supper or at the fish course for dinner.
RELISHES.
GUOCCHI A LA ROMAINE.
I quart of milk, 2 eggs, salt, butter,
6 oz. of farina, Grated Parmesan cheese.
Boil the milk. When boiling well, stir slowly into it the
farina. Boil 4 minutes, stirring constantly. Remove from
the fire and beat in the eggs, a little salt, and some of the
cheese. Pour into a shallow pan to cool. When perfectly
cold and firm, cut into small rounds, the size of a twenty-five
cent piece. Arrange these tastefully in layers, pyramidal in
shape, on a flat dish that will go in the oven. Sprinkle be-
tween the layers bits of butter and more grated cheese,
finishing the top with the same. Place in the oven until
delicately browned. Serve.
DEVILLED SARDINES.
Have ready slices of buttered toast trimmed. Place the
sardines in a pan, with the oil from the box, where they will
heat slowly but thoroughly—they must not cook. Prepare
a mixture of melted butter, made mustard (English), salt,
cayenne, and lemon-juice. When the sardines are hot, split
them, and place on the toast, then baste with the sauce and
serve very hot.
SHRIMPS WITH TOMATOES.
CREVETTES AUX TOMATES.
2 cups of shrimps boiled, 2 medium, or I large tomato,
Remoulade Dressing.
Remove the shells from the tails of the shrimps and place
in a small, open dish. Peel the tomato with a sharp knife,
and cut in thin, small, even slices. Lay these around the


558 GOOD-LIVING.
Rarebit as by receipt, using a little less cheese, that it maybe
thinner. When everything is ready, put the eggs on the
toast, pour the rarebit over them, and serve instantly.
N. B.—The bacon is not served.
Paris.
EGGS A LA STEWART.
CEUFS A LA STEWART.
o eggs,
3 tablespoons of grated Parmesan and Gruyere cheese, mixed,
I cup of stewed tomatoes.
Scramble the eggs as per receipt, adding the cheese a mo-
ment before serving. Put the scrambled eggs into a deep
dish. Have ready the tomatoes well seasoned and mixed
with a little chopped parsley. Pour them neatly into a
hollow in the centre of the eggs and serve immediately.
Paris.
ANCHOVIED EGGS.
CEUFS GOURMETS.
Have ready some eggs boiled hard according to receipt,
allowing one for each person. Prepare slices of buttered
toast from which the crust has been removed. Spread a
thin layer of anchovy-paste on the toast. Make a rich Cream
Sauce (see receipt), into which stir at the last moment a little
finely chopped parsley. Slice the hard eggs. Lay the slices
on the toast. Spread a thick layer of sauce over each, and
f serve very hot.
FAIRIES.
l pint of flour, Pinch of salt,
I scant tablespoon of butter. Cold water.
Mix together flour, butter, and salt, then add cold water
enough to make a dough which can be kneaded. Roll out
as thin as paper. Cut in rounds, prick with a fork, and bake
for an instant.


SUPPLEMENTARY RECEIPTS.
559
THIN BISCUITS.
I pint of flour, Pinch of salt,
I gill of milk, I egg,
I tablespoon of lard and butter, mixed.
Beat the egg. Pour in the flour, then add the milk, and
lastly the butter and lard. Knead well. Then break off
small pieces the size of marbles. Roll out as thin as a sheet
of paper, sprinkling with dry flour as you roll, this to make
the biscuits crisp. Prick with a fork and bake brown.
N. B.—These require very little time in the oven.
CRISP COOKIES.
\ lb. of butter, \ lb. of sugar,
I lb. of flour, White of I egg.
Mix together thoroughly. Flavor with bitter almond or
ratafia. Roll out thin, cut in rounds, and bake.
GERMAN SAND TART.
I lb. of powdered sugar, I lb. flour,
I lb. butter, 7 eggs,
Juice of I lemon.
Beat all together, addings eggs and flour alternately. Stir
in the same direction for I hour. Butter the inside of a
cake-mould and sprinkle thickly with fine Zwieback or
cracker crumbs. Fill with the batter and bake in a moder-
ate oven for 1£ hours. Also excellent baked in 2 layers and
finished with jelly between and rum icing over the top.
PRUNE PUDDING.
J lb. of prunes, I teaspoon of vanilla,
I pint of cold water, 6 eggs, whites only,
3 tablespoons of powdered sugar, I pint of cream.
Soak the prunes in the water for about 20 minutes, then
put on the fire and stew for \ an hour. Press through a
sieve. Add the powdered sugar and vanilla, also the whites


GOOD-LIVING.
of eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Beat well together. Bake in
a moderate oven about 25 minutes. When cold place on ice
for several hours before serving. Whip the cream and heap
it on the pudding when ready to serve.
MYRTLE COCOANUT PUDDING.
I cocoanut, 6 yolks of eggs,
Milk of same, 1 lb. granulated sugar.
Scald together the sugar and milk until dissolved, but do
not boil. Remove from the fire and add the grated cocoa-
nut, stirring constantly. Beat the eggs light. Beat them
into the cocoanut. Stir together over the fire until scalding
hot, but do not boil. Pour into an earthenware pudding-
dish and bake in a moderate oven 10 to 15 minutes or more,
until brown.
JELLIED PRUNE PUDDING.
I lb. French prunes, \ box of gelatine (Nelson's),
I pint of water, 2 tablespoons of brandy,
\ cups of sugar. \ pint of cream, whipped.
Stew the prunes in the pint of water. When nearly
tender, add the sugar and stew until soft. Then remove the
stones and cut each prune in 4 pieces. Meanwhile dissolve
the gelatine in 1 gill of cold water. Set this on the fire and
stir until thoroughly melted. Strain this into the prunes.
Add the brandy. Rinse out a border-mould with cold
water. Fill with the prune mixture and set away on ice to
harden. Having whipped the cream, add to it a little lemon-
juice, also a little of the peel grated. When ready to serve,
turn the pudding out of the mould and heap the cream in
the centre space.
JELLIED FIG PUDDING.
Proceed as above, substituting dried figs. Both of these
jellied puddings are highly recommended. Canned apricots
and peaches are also excellent prepared in this manner with
the gelatine, etc., and served with cream.



CHAFING-DISH RECEIPTS.
NOTE.—In the chapter on " Savory Relishes" will be
found some receipts which may also be used for the chafing-
dish. The chapter on " Eggs" will also contribute several.
WELSH-RAREBIT.
3 cups of cheese, I yolk of egg,
Worcestershire Sauce, Cayenne, salt,
Butter the size of a walnut, Beer, ale, or porter.
Melt the butter with the seasonings. Put in the cheese
and stir until beginning to melt, adding by degrees beer,
ale, or porter (former preferred), about a gill, according as
required. When the cheese is melted, stir in quickly the
yolk of egg, and serve immediately on buttered toast.
American cheese is best for this purpose.
CREAMED LOBSTER.
Cut cold boiled lobster in pieces. Put a large lump of
butter in the chafing-dish, add salt, cayenne, and \ a cup
of cream. When the butter is melted, lay in the lobster
with all its fat. Stir the fat and cream together, cover, when
boiling, stir in £ a teaspoonful of cornstarch blended with 2
tablespoonfuls of cream, and stir about 2 minutes. Then
add I or 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry and serve.
SARDINES WITH ANCHOVY BUTTER.
Melt 1 tablespoonful of butter in the chafing-dish with
about a level teaspoonful of anchovy-paste. When melted,
564


CHAFING-DISH RECEIPTS.
565
remove the skins from some boneless sardines and lay them
in the butter for 3 or 4 minutes, basting them meanwhile
with the butter. Lay them on thin slices of hot toast, and
cover with the butter. If liked, the chafing-dish may be
rubbed with a clove of garlic cut open, before putting in the
butter.
STEWED OYSTERS.
25 oysters and their liquor, Butter the size of a walnut,
I teaspoon of cornstarch, Milk,
Salt, pepper, nutmeg or mace.
Put the butter into the chafing-dish. Strain the liquor
from the oysters. When the butter is melted, add the
liquor. When this boils, put in the oysters. Mix the corn-
starch with just enough milk to blend it thoroughly, about
-J of a cup. When the beards of the oysters have begun to
curl, and they are boiling briskly, stir* in the blending. Con-
tinue to stir for about 2 minutes, adding salt, pepper, a very
small pinch of nutmeg or mace, or a little celery-salt and 2
teaspoonfuls of sherry wine.
SOFT CLAMS STEWED.
In the spring these are at their best. Obtain, if possible,
soft clams that are opened expressly, and the juice saved.
Those that are tied in bunches and sold at the fish markets
are a poor substitute. Strain the juice into the chafing-dish.
Add a large lump of butter, pepper, and salt, and bring to
a boil. Then put in the clams whole and stew gently until
almost firm. Blend together some cornstarch and milk,
allowing about 1 teaspoonful of cornstarch and £ of a cup of
rich milk to a pint of stew. Bring the stew to a brisk boil
and stir in the blending. Boil and stir for about 2 minutes
until smooth and slightly thickened and serve immediately.
A very small pinch of nutmeg or mace may be added,
according to taste.
FRESH MUSHROOMS STEWED.
Remove the skins from the tops and scrape the stalks of


566
GOOD-LIVING.
the mushrooms. Cut the stalks in small pieces and leave
the tops whole, if very young. The larger ones should be
cut to a uniform size that they may cook evenly. As they
are prepared throw them into a bowl of cold water in which
there is about I tablespoonful of vinegar to a quart of water.
Let them stand 15 or 20 minutes. Now put a large table-
spoonful of butter (for a quart bowl full of mushrooms) into
the chafing-dish, also a saltspoonful of salt and a teaspoonful
of Worcestershire Sauce. When the butter is melted, lift
the mushrooms out of the water, not draining them. Mix
them well with the butter and seasonings, then cover them
and allow to stew, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes or
more, until they lose their crispness and become a little
tender. Too much cooking destroys their flavor. Blend
together a teaspoonful of cornstarch and about 2 table-
spoonfuls of cream. Stir this into the boiling mushrooms
and continue to stir for about 2 minutes until the sauce is
smooth and the cornstarch thoroughly cooked. Serve on
toast. The above receipt is very simple but gives the full
flavor of the mushrooms.
MINCED VEAL.
Cold veal cut in dice, Lemon juice,
Cold ham cut in dice, Worcestershire Sauce.
Meat jelly or strong stock, Mushrooms, canned or fresh.
Heat about a cupful of jelly or stock, add the meat, season-
ings, and mushrooms. When thoroughly heated and boil-
ing, add a teaspoonful of cornstarch blended with a little
cold stock, and stir for about 2 minutes, until smooth and
slightly thickened. Serve on toast.
CREAM OF CHICKEN.
Cold chicken cut in small pieces, Cup of milk,
Butter the size of a walnut, Seasoning,
Flour, twice the bulk of the butter, I teaspoon of chopped parsley.
Melt the butter; add the milk, reserving a little to blend
the flour. When the milk boils, stir in the blended flour,


CHAFING-DISH RECEIPTS.
567
and continue to stir until quite smooth. Add the chicken,
and stir to prevent scorching, until the chicken is thoroughly
heated. Then add the seasonings and chopped parsley and
serve on toast.
Cream of turkey, or veal, or lamb may be made in the
same way, except that the meats are better minced.
CHICKEN WITH ARTICHOKES.
Pieces of cold chicken, I cup of meat jelly or strong chicken broth,
Lemon juice, Salt and pepper,
I small can of Fonds d'Artichauts, I teaspoon of Worcestershire Sauce.
Heat the chicken-broth, reserving a little with which to
make the blending later. Add seasonings. Lay in the
pieces of chicken, then after a minute or two, the artichokes.
Cover and heat thoroughly. When boiling, stir in J of a
teaspoonful of cornstarch blended with some of the cold
broth. Stir for about 2 minutes and serve.
CHICKEN WITH GREEN PEAS,
CHICKEN WITH MAC&DOINE OF VEGETABLES.
may both be prepared exactly as above, substituting canned
or fresh peas, or canned macedoine. These canned vegeta-
bles should be drained and washed through with cold water
before using.
DUCK AND OLIVES.
Cold duck cut in pieces, Seasonings,
I cup of meat jelly or strong stock, Sherry,
-J cup of pitted olives, Cornstarch.
Heat the stock, reserving a little to blend the cornstarch.
Add 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry and a teaspoonful of Wor-
cestershire Sauce and salt. Lay in the pieces of duck, then
the olives. When thoroughly heated and the sauce boils,
add 1 teaspoonful of cornstarch blended with some of the
cold stock. Stir and boil about 2 minutes and serve.


CHAFING-DISH RECEIPTS.
569
The tenderloins may also be warmed in butter melted with
a little French mustard, Worcestershire sauce, capers, and
salt.
MUTTON WITH JELLY SAUCE.
Prepare according to receipt for Venison.
EGGS WITH ASPARAGUS TIPS.
Salt.
I small can of asparagus tips,
6 eggs,
2 tablespoons of milk,
Pepper,
1 tablespoon of butter,
Put the butter in the pan with the asparagus tips, which
have been previously drained from their liquid and lightly
washed through with cold water, then drained quite dry.
Have ready in a bowl the eggs, slightly beaten with the
milk. When the asparagus is hot, and seasoning has been
added, stir in the eggs, and continue to stir from the bottom
until firm enough. Then serve immediately on slices of
buttered toast.
EGGS WITH TOMATOES.
I teacup of very thick stewed tomatoes,
6 eggs,
1 large teaspoon of chopped parsley,
Salt and pepper,
Butter, size of walnut,
2 tablespoons of milk.
Beat the eggs slightly in a bowl with the milk. Put the
butter, tomatoes, and seasonings in the chafing dish, and
when thoroughly heated, and not before, turn in the eggs.
Stir always from the bottom until firm enough, then stir in
the parsley, and serve on buttered toast.
EGGS WITH HAM AND TOMATOES. Comoresun
1 cup of thick stewed tomatoes,
1 cup finely chopped cold ham,
1 teaspoon finely chopped parsley,
Butter, the size of walnut,
6 eggs,
Pepper,
Salt,
2 tablespoons of milk.
Melt the butter with the ham and tomatoes. When
thoroughly hot, add seasonings, then the eggs, which have


570
GOOD-LIVING.
been slightly beaten in a bowl with the milk. Stir always
from the bottom until firm enough. Then add the parsley,
and serve on slices of buttered toast.
SMOKED BEEF AND EGGS.
Put a large lump of butter in the chafing-dish. Lay in
some thin slices of smoked beef, and cover for a minute or
two. Meanwhile have ready in a bowl the eggs, slightly
beaten with about I tablespoonful of milk to every 2 eggs.
When the beef is hot stir in the eggs, pepper, and very little
salt. Stir always from the bottom until the eggs are firm
enough, then serve. A little chopped parsley is an im-
provement.
EGGS STIRRED WITH TRUFFLES.
Follow the receipt for Truffled Eggs au Jus.
EGGS AND CHEESE.
6 eggs, 2 tablespoons of milk,
Soup-plate of grated American cheese, Butter, the size of walnut,
1 teaspoon of Worcestershire Sauce, A little salt, Cayenne.
Melt the butter, and add the seasonings. Then stir in
the eggs, which have been slightly beaten in a bowl with the
milk. Stir the eggs always from the bottom. When nearly
firm enough, but not quite, turn in the cheese and stir until
it is melted and the eggs firm enough, being careful not to
let it stick at the bottom of the pan. Serve on slices of but-
tered toast.
FRICASS&ED EGGS.
6 hard-boiled eggs, I cup of milk,
Butter, the size of a walnut, Salt and pepper,
Flour, twice the quantity, Chopped parsley,
A few drops of onion juice.
Melt the butter, and add the milk, of which keep back
enough to blend the flour. When the milk boils, stir in the






INDEX.
ABRICOTS, croute aux, 485
Agneau en caisses, 130
Agneau cotelettes grillees, 128
"croquettes, 131
"epigramme, sauce tartare, 129
"langues d', 129
""4 la tartare, 130
«« «« sauce tomate, 13o
"poitrine braisee, 128
"quartier roti, 128
"rognons, 130
«« rognons grilles, 130
Alaska, roasted ice-cream, 499
Allemande sauce, 248
No. II., 50
"a la Hollandaise, 49
""maitre d'hotel, 49
"sauce tartare, 50
Almond-paste filling, 420
Almonds, salted, 344
Alose farcie, No. I., 49
Amber consomme, 7
"pudding, 444
Amherst " 447
Ananas, creme glacee a 1', 495, 497
"glace a 1', 502
"mousse a 1', 496
"neige a 1', 467
Anchovy with poached eggs, 360
"sauce, 250
"toast, 343
Angel cake, 395
Anguilles, f rites, 55
"grillees, 55
"en matelote, 54
"a la poulette, 55
Apple Charlotte, 483
cheese cakes, 418
dried, cake, 399
dumplings, boiled, 449
fritters, 478
and orange salad, 488
pie, 431
pudding, frozen, 497
Apple pudding, old-fashioned, 449
"spiced, 436
'* sauce, 262
"sponge, 486
"tart, creamed, 435
"whip, 474
Apricot, filling, 419
"toast, 485
Archangel cake, 395
Arrowroot, blanc-mange, 531
jelly, 531
"souffle, 480
"soup, 11
Artichauts, 312
Artichokes, French or globe, 312
Jerusalem, baked, 311
"braised, 311
"chips, 311
"a la creme, 310
"au gratin, 311
"puree, 311
"salad, 329
Asado (Spanish fricassee), 189
Asparagus, to boil, 287
"salad, 328
"soup, 25
"tips, stewed, 288
Asperges, en branches, 287
"creme d', 25
"en petits-pois, 288
""salade, 328
Aubergine, a la creole, 297
"farcie, 298
frite, 298
Aurora loaf cake, 396
BACALAO a la Vizcaina, 58
Bacon, in batter, 173
Bacon, and beans, creole, 308
"and eggs, 364
fried, No. I,, 173
""No. II., 173
"toasted, 173
Balls, codfish, 59.
573


574
INDEX.
Balls, force-meat (for calf's-head
soup), 13
"force-meat, No. I., 235
"" No. II., 235
"" oyster, 235
"ham, 169
"herring, 64
Baking-powder (note), 543
Bananas, fried, 487
Bar, sauce tartare, 47
"aux tomates, 47
Batter, fritter, 391
""French, 476
"for fruit fritters, 476
"pudding, baked, 442
"very useful, 382
Bass, cold, sauce tartare, 47
"stewed with tomatoes, 47
Bavarian cream, 454
""chocolate, 455
coffee, 455
""orange, 456
""strawberry, 455
Bavaroise, 454
"au cafe, 455
""chocolat, 455
"aux fraises, 455
"a l'orange, 456
Bean soup, black, 31
"" lima and tomato, 39
"" red, 32
"" white, 33
Beans and bacon, creole, 308
"Boston baked, 307
"lima, 306
"red, 306
""salad of, 330
"string, 305
"white, salad of, 332
Bearnaise sauce, 252
Beaulieu pudding, 438
Becasses, roties, 208
"sautees, 207
Becassines, roties No. I., 208
"No. II., 208
"sautees, 207
Bechamel sauce, 247
Beef, boiled, 97
"braised, 96
"corn, 113
""croquettes, 115
""hash, 114
"en daube, 96
"filet Bearnaise, 101
"«« braised, 99
"" " aux champignons,
100
"" " Madeira sauce, IOI
Beef, filet, braised, Soubise, IOI
"" "aux truffes, 10 r
"" larded and roasted, 97
"" aux tomates farcies, Ic 1
"filets mignons, broiled, 98
"general directions, 90
"Hamburg steaks, 106
"juice (for invalids), 529
"kidneys stewed, 109
"" a la terrapin, 11o
"liver, HO
"(note), 534
"marine, 107
"a la mode, 94
"and okra soup, 17
"ox-tails a la tartare, 108
"roast, 90
""filet larded, 97
"roll, 108
"roulette, 108
"Scotch roll, 106
"smoked, with cream, 109
"" tongue, to boil, I1
1
"soup, 3
"stew with okra, 109
"tea, delicious, 529
'• "plain, 529
Beef's tongue braised, 11
1
"" "with puree of
potatoes, 112
"" "with puree of
spinach, 113
"" "with sauce pi-
quante, 113
"" "with sauce tar-
tare, 112
*' " "with tomato
sauce, 113
•' " jellied, 112
Beefsteak, braised, brown gravy, 103
"broiled, 102
"and onions, No. I., 105
No. II., 105
"pot-pie, 104
"pudding, 104
"a la Shrewsbury, 103
Beets, 318
Beet salads, 330
"-tops, 304
Beignets, 477
"de celeri, 310
""cervelles de veau, 156
"of chicken a la tartare, 187
"de concombres, 302
""fraises, 478
"d'huitres, 72
""panais, 319
""peches, 477


INDEX.
575
Beignets, de pommes, 478
""ris de veau, 147
""salsifis, 316
"souffles, 474,
Betteraves, 318
Beurre d^anchois, 250
"maitre d'hotel, 252
"noir, 254
Beverages, etc., 522
Bewitched veal, 145
Biftek, 102
"braise aux huitres, 103
"aux ognons, 105
Birds, to truss small (note) 533
Biscuit, devilled with cheese, 342
plain, 343
"ice-cream, 494
"Maryland, 379
"soda, 378
"tea, 378
Bisque, of clams, 37
"de homard, 36
"ice-cream, 494
"of lobster, 36
""tomatoes, 30
Black-bean soup, 31
Blackberry cordial, 526
"pudding, baked, 436
""boiled, 436
"sweetmeats, 509
Blackbird-pie, 217
Black pickle, 516
Black-walnut candy, 514
Blanche, sauce, 250
"soupe, 34
Blanc-mange, arrowroot, 531
"chocolate, 471
"cocoa-nut cream, 471
"corn-starch, 472
fruit, 473
Blending for soups and sauces, 245
Bloaters, Yarmouth, 65
Blonde, sauce, 260
Bceuf, braise, 96
"en daube, 96
"filet pique, 97
"mar1ne, 107
"a la mode, 94
"en roulette, 108
Boiled beef, 97
Bombay toast, 343
Bonny clabber, 371
Boston brown hash, 113
Bouchees a la reine, etc., 229
Bouilli, 97
"salad, 336
Bouillon fait en une heure, 8
"gilt-edged, 3
Braise, plain, 93
Bran bread, 374
Brandied peaches, 506
Brandy, icing, 421
"sauce (pudding), 45r
Bread, 373
"Boston-brown, 377
"bran, 374
corn, 385
gluten, 375
"graham, 375
"Italian, 376
"muffins, 381
Note I., 373
"Note II., 373
541
"omelet, 355
"puffs, 376
"rolls, 375
"rye, 374
"salt-rising, 376
Bread-crumb dressing for poultry, 24c
Bread-crumbs fried, 237
(note), 539
Bread-pans (note), 541
Breakfast, cakes, 373
"fish, 61
"Relishes for, 347
Broccoli, 292
Broma, 525
Brook trout, to fry, 45
Broth, hasty, 8
"made in I hour, 8
"Scotch, 19
Brown Betty, 435
"bread, Boston, 377
""ice-cream, 494
"gravy, 246
"roux, 243
"sauce, 246
Brussels sprouts, 293
Buckwheat cakes, 388
Burns, remedy for, 546
Butter, 369
Buttermilk, dumplings, 393
"griddle-cakes, 388
"muffins, 380
CABBAGE, to boil (note), 538
'' and celery, stewed, 293
Cabbage, celery, and beet salad, 330
"stewed, 293
"stewed a la Flamande, 232
"stuffed, 231
"summer, 292
"winter, 292
Cabillaud, 57
"filets de, 57


INDEX.
579
Concombres, ragout de, 302
"en salade, 301
"sauce, 262
Consomme, 1,
"amber, 7
"chicken, 8
"dore, 7
"with macaroni, 9
"aux ceufs poches, 10
"aux pates d'ltalie, 1
1
"with poached eggs, 10
"a la royale, 8
"au vermicelle, 11
"de volaille, 8
Cookery for Invalids, 529
Cookies, crisp, without soda, 412
Coquettes, 475
Coquilles, de champignons, 287
"d'huitres, 75
"de salsifis, 316
Cordial, blackberry, 526
kUmmel, 528
Corn, to boil, 296
"bread, 385
"cake, 384
"cake, Virginia, 385
"crust, Alabama, 385
"drops, 385
"" plain, 386
"fritters, 297
"oysters, 296
"pudding, 295, 296
"rolls, delicate, 386
"salad, 327
"to serve (note), 544
Corn-beef, 113
"croquettes, 115
"hash, 114
Cornichous, sauce, 249
Corn-meal griddle cakes, 389
Corn-starch blanc-mange, 472
Cottage, cheese, 371
"pudding, 441
Coulis de poisson, 38
Court bouillon, to boil fish in, 43
"" New Orleans, 66
"" Shrewsbury, 65
Crab, gumbo No. I., 23
"No. II., 39
"salad, 83
Crabs, devilled, 82
"farcied, 82
"hard-shell, boiled, 82
"soft-shell, fried, 82
Cranberry pie, 431
"sauce, 263
tart, 433
Crecy soup No. I., 26
470
Crecy soup No. II., 26
Cream, Bavarian, 454
""chocolate, 455
""coffee, 455
""orange, 456
""strawberry, 455
"of chicken (see veal), 141
"coffee, 459
"icing, 422
"lamb (see veal), 141
"muffins, 381
"mutton (see veal), 141
"orange, 459
"puffs, 405
"sauce, 247
"short-cake, 379
"snow, 456
"Spanish, 460
"tea-cakes, 393
"veal, 141
"velvet, 460
"whipped, 457
Creme, 468
"d'asperges, 25
"bachique, 469
au cafe, 469
""caramel, 469
""chocolat, etc.,
"choux a la, 405
"fouettee, 457
"frite, 476
"glacee a l'ananas, 495, 497
""au caramel, 495
"""chocolat, 493
""a la fraise, 40
""vanille, 491, 492
"Italienne, 468
"de riz, 28
"veloutee, 460
Creole ratatouille, 142
Crepes, 482
Crevettes, salade de, 339
Croquettes, chicken; No. I.
""plain,
193 j
""and sweetbread,
228
"codfish, 58
"corn-beef, 115
"lamb, 131
"mutton, 124
"potato, 270
"salmon, 56
•' de saumon, 56
"to serve, (note), 544
"shad-roe, 51
"sweetbread, 151
"veal, 139
192
No.
II.,


INDEX.
581
Duck, tame, 203
""braised, 204
""salmi of, 203
"wild, 205
""salmi with olives, 207
""jelly sauce, 206
Dumplings, 392
"apple, boiled, 449
"buttermilk, 393
"suet, 392
CLAIRS au cafe, 406
JQ, Economical, fruit cake, 399
Economical maigre soup, 34
"soup, 16
Eels, broiled, 55
"fried, 55
"en matelote, 54
"a la poulette, 55
"stewed, 54
Egg and wine, 525
"-balls, 235
"-beaters (note), 532
"-icing, 422
"-fondu, 364
"-nogg, 525 .
"-plant, baked w1th bread-crumbs,
297
"fried, 298
stuffed, 298
Eggs, 350
"a l'Andalouse, 3o7
""l'Aurore, 361
"and bacon, 364 <
"baked, 359
"au beurre noir, 360
"to boil, 358
"boiled, hard, 359
"cake without, 399
"en caisses, 365
"with celery, 368
"curried, 362
"fricasseed, 366
"fried, 361
"ham and, 361
"hard-boiled, 359
"" " salad, 337
""crumbed (note), 539
"en matelote, 363
"with mushrooms, 364
"in a nest, 366
"omelet, bread, 355
"" cheese, 356
"" chicken livers, 367
"" creole, 353
"" fine herbs, 355
"" ham, 352
"" kidney, 357
Eggs omelet, mushroom, 357
"" onion, 356
"" oyster, 353
"" parsley, 354
"" plain, 351
"" potato, 355
"" rum, 357
"" sardine, 354
"" Spanish, 356
"" sweetmeats, 358
"" tomato, 353
"" with tomato sauce, 35a
truffle, 357
"" whitebait, 354
"to poach (note), 537
"poached, 360
"" with anchovy toast, 36a
"aux pointes d'asperges, 364
"to preserve (note1, 540
"scrambled, 362
"smoked beef and, 358
"stirred, 362
"" a l'lndienne, 365
"" with mushrooms, 364
"" with tomatoes, 363
"stuffed, mayonnaise sauce, 366
"sur le plat, 350
""" " with asparagus tips,
35o
"'"ham, 350
"""" "tomato sauce,
351
"with tomato sauce, 368
"a la tripe, 351
"truffled au jus, 363
"a la Valencienne, 367
Eglefin, grille, 59
"en matelote, 60
Endives, puree, 304
"salad of, 326
English, mustard, to mix, 241
"pigeon pie, 217,
"plum-pudding, 447
Eperlans, frits, 52
"grilles, 52
"sauce mayonnaise, 53
Epigram of lamb, 129
Epinards, puree a la creme, 303
""au jus, 302
Escarole salad, 327
Espagnole sauce, 246
FANCY jelly, 466
Farina, fruit, 479
Farina soup, 12
Feather cakes, 391
pillows, to remove odor from,
546


582
INDEX.
Fetticus salad, 327
Fig pudding, 449
Filet, Bearnaise, 101
'' of beef braised, 99
"de bceuf braise, 99
"" "pique, 97
"braise aux champignons, 100
""sauce madere, 101
""a la Soubise, 10
""aux tomates farcies, 101
"" "truffes, 101
Filets d'alose a l'oseille, 49
"de cabillaud, 57
"mignons grilles, 98
"de poisson, 53
""sole a la maitre d'hotel, 63
'• "" "Orly, 62
Fillet of veal braised, 134
"" " Soubise sauce, 134
"" " stuffed and roasted, 133
Fillets of chicken, 185
""sole a la Orly, 62
Filling, almond-paste, 420
"apricot, 419
"chocolate, 419
"cocoa-nut, 419
"coffee, 420
"custard, 421
"ice-cream, 421
"lemon custard, 420
"orange, 420
"peach, 419
Fillings for cakes, 419
Finnan haddie, 64
Fish, 42
"bacalao a la Vizcaina, 58
"to boil, No. I., 42
"" " No. II., 42
"boiled au court bouillon, 43
"to boil trout of I pound, 44
"to broil, 44
"bass, cold, sauce Tartare, 47
""stewed with tomatoes, 47
"breakfast, 61
"cod, boiled, 57
""salt, a la bonne femme, 57
""steaks, 57
""balls, 59
""broiled, 59
""croquettes, 58
"cutlets, 53
"a la Delmonico, 60
"directions, 42
"eels, broiled, 55
""fried, 55
""en matelote, 54
""a la poulette, 55
""stewed, 54
Fish, Finnan haddie, 64
"frogs, fricassee, brown, 67
"" "white, 67
""fried, 67
"" "in batter, 66
""a la poulette, 67
"to fry, 44
""brook trout and small fish,
45
"haddock, broiled, 59
"" stewed, 60
"halibut, baked a la creole, 60
""devilled, 60
"'• steak a la Flamande, 59
'' herring balls, 64
"" kippered, 65
1" " Potomac, 65
"kippered herring, 65
"mock turbot k la creme, 61
"New Orleans court bouillon, 66
"Potomac herring, 65
"pudding (Scandinavian), 53
"sardine omelet, 370
"salad, 47
"salmon, boiled, 56
"" croquettes, 56
"" steaks, 56
"salt mackerel, broiled, 64
""to freshen, 64
'• shad, baked No. I., 49
No. II., 50
""boiled, 49
"" " cold, sauce Tar-
tare, 50
cutlets a l'oseille, 49
""planked, 50
""pickled, 51
«4 "soused, 51
"shad-roe croquettes, 51
"Shrewsbury court bouillon, 65
"smelts, baked, 52
"" broiled, 52
"" fried, 52
"" mayonnaise, 53
"" stewed, 53
"sole a l'Aurore, 63
"fillets a la Orly, 62
"" """ maitre d'hotel, 63
""fried, 62
"soup, 39
"to steam, 44
"stewed en matelote, 45
"stock, 38
"stuffed and baked, 46
"whitebait, 48
""omelet, 370
"Yarmouth bloaters, 65
Flaky pie-crust, 424


INDEX.
5^3
Flannel cakes, quick, 390
""raised, 390
Flour-ball for infants' food, 530
Foie de veau, braise, 158
"" "grille, 161
'roti, 159
"" " saute, 160
"" " "aux cornichons,
160
Foies de volailles sautes, 181
Fondu, egg, 341
"au fromage, 364
Force-meat balls No. I., 235
"No. II., 235
"ham, 238
"oyster, 235
Force-meats, garnishes, etc., 233
Four-and-twenty-blackbird pie, 217
Fourchette, 161
Fowl, to truss a, 176
Fraise, glace a la, 501
Fraises, Bavaroise aux, 455
"glacees, 501
""a la creme, 496
Framboise, glace a la, 501
Framboises, charlotte de, 484
"croute aux, 485
Freezer, ice-cream (note), 532
Freezing, directions for ice-creams, 490
F'rench, batter, 476
"cake, 398
"dressing, 326
"noodle soup, 10
Freshen salt fish, to, 64
Friar's omelet, 485
Fricandeau of veal, 134
Fricassee, brown, of frogs, 67
"chicken, 183
""tomato sauce, 190
"dainty chicken, 182
"white, of frogs, 67
Fricasseed eggs, 366
F'ried bread-crumbs, 237
"parsley, 241
Fritter batter, 391
""French, 476
""for fruit, 476
Fritters, apple, 478
"calf's brains, 156
"celery, 310
"chicken, a la Tartare, 187
clam, 85
"corn, 297
"cucumber, 302
"parsnips, 319
"peach, 477
plain, 477
"salsify, 316
Fritters, strawberry, 478
"sweetbread, 147
Frogs, fricassee, brown, 67
""white, 67
"fried, 67
""in batter, 66
"a la poulette, 67
Fromage, de cochon, 169
""tete de veau, 154
Frozen apple-pudding, 497
fruit " 499
"peaches, 501
""and cream, 495
"pine-apple cream, 495
"punch, 503
"strawberries, 501
""and cream, 496
Fruit, blanc-mange, 473
"farina, 479
"fritters, batter for, 476
"pies (note), 543
"-pudding, frozen, 499
"stains, to remove (note), 544
Fruits, macedoine of, 466
Fry f1sh, to. 44
Frying, basket (note), 532
"general directions for, 40
Furniture polish (note), 547
GALANTINE de veau, 140
Galette, 427
Game, 205
"to clean, 175
cold (note), 535
"pate, jellied, 223
Garnishes, 233
"for clear soup, 236
Gateau de Savoie, 398
Gelatine pudding, 461
Gelbe Speise, 462
Gelee, au cafe, 459
""citron, 464
"a la crime d'orange, 459
"fantaisie. 466
"a l'orange, 463
"de tapioca, 473
"au vin de madere, 465
Gems, Graham, 388
German noodle soup, 9
Gherkins, pickled, 519
Giblet soup, 21
Gilt-edged bouillon, 3
Ginger-beer, 526
"-bread, 400
""without eggs or butter,
401
"-cake, 401
'* -snaps, 412


5*4
INDEX.
Ginger souffle, 480
Glace, 242
"A l'ananas, 502
"au citron, 500
"a la fraise, 501, 503
""framboise, 501
""groseille, 503
"a l'orange, 502
Glaze, 242
Gloves, wash for cleaning (note), 547
Gluten bread, 375
Golden buck, 340
"sauce (pudding), 450
Gombo aux crabes No. I., 23
"" " No. II., 39
*' fevi, 22
"file, 21
"aux huitres, 23
Gombos, 314
"sautes, 314
"salade de, 329
Good plain paste, 425
Goose, roast, 201
Gooseberry charlotte, 484
Graham, bread, 375
"fingers and thumbs, 379
"gems, 38S
"wafers, 380
Grape, jelly, 511
"sweetmeats, 510
Gravy, brown, 246
Green pea soup, 27
"tomato pickles, 515
"soy, 515
""sweet pickles, 519
Grenouilles, frites, 67
"a la poulette, 67
Griddle, to grease (note), 542
"to heat "541
"cakes, 388
""buckwheat, 388
""buttermilk, 388
""corn-meal, 389
""feather, 391
""hominy, 390
""oat-meal, 389
""quick flannel, 390
""raised " 390
""rice, 389
""stale-bread, 39.'
Groseille, glace a la, 503
Groseilles, charlotte de, 483
Grouse, broiled, 207
"roast, 207
Guinea-fowl, braised, 201
"broiled, 201
"roast, 200
Gumbo, chicken, 23
Gumbo, crab No. I., 23
""No. II., 39
"okra, 22
"oyster, 23
HADDOCK, broiled, 59
"stewed, 60
Halibut, baked à la creole, 60
"devilled, 60
"steak a la Flamande, 59
Ham balls, 169
"to boil, 166
"bone (note), 535
"broiled, 167
"and eggs, 361
"force-meat, 238
"fried, 167
"lunch, 167
"puffs, 168
"souffle, 168
"toast for breakfast, 167
Hamburg steaks, 106
Hard-egg sauce, 250
"sauce (pudding), 452
""plain (pudding), 452
Hare, barbecued, 218
"au chasseur, 219
"potted, 220
Haricots verts, 305
""en salade, 328
Hash, baked in a mould, 113
"Boston brown, 113
"chicken (see corn-beef), 114
"corn-beef, 114
"lamb (see corn-beef), 114
"mutton" 114
"pickle, 518
"turkey (see corn-beef), 114
«« veal 114
Hasty broth, 8
Hazel-nut cake, 409
Head-cheese, 169
Heart, calf's, stuffed, 163
Henriettas, 416
Herb, sweet, dressing for veal, 240
Herring balls, 64
"kippered, 65
"Potomac, 65
Hoe-cake, 384
Hollandaise sauce, 255
Homard, a l'Americaine, 79
"cotelettes de, 80
a la diable, 81
farci, 81
"au kari, 81
"a la Newberg, 80
"sauce, 250
Hominy griddle-cakes, 390


INDEX.
585
Horseradish sauce, 260
Huckleberry, cake, 416
pudding, 437
"roly-poly, 441
Huitres, 70
"beignets, d', 72
"en brochette, 77
""coquilles, 75
a la diable, 71
"frites, 70
"en hachis, 77
"au kari, 76
""macaroni, 78
""parmesan, 73
"a la poulette, 72
"roties, 71
"sauce aux, 251
"soupe " 38
ICE, citron, 502
"currant sherbet, 503
Ice, frozen peaches, 501
""punch, 503
""strawberries, 501
"lemon-water, 500
"orange sherbet, 502
"pine-apple sherbet, 502
"to preserve (note), 545
"raspberry, 501
"Roman punch, 503
"strawberry, 501
"" sherbet, 503
Ice-box (note) 545
Ice-cream, Alaska, roasted, 499
biscuit, 494
bisque, 494
brown-bread, 494
cafe, parfait au, 494
caramel, 495
chocolate, 493
coffee (Phila.), 493
filling, 421
freezer (note), 532
frozen apple pudding, 497
fruit " 499
"peaches and cream,
495
"pine-apple cream,
495
"strawberries and
cream, 496
general directions for
freezing, 490
iced pudding, 500
mousse a l'ananas, 496
Nesselrode pudding 498
pine-apple, 497
plum-pudding glace, 498
Ice-cream, strawberry, 496
"vanilla, 492
"vanilla, with eggs, 491
Phila., 491
"water-ices, etc., 490
Icing, brandy, 421
"coffee, 421
"chocolate, 419
"cream, 422
"egg, 422
"kirsch, 421
"lemon, 421
"orange, 422
"rum, 421
"wine, 422
Icings for cakes, 419
Indian-meal gruel, 531
"pickle 517
"pudding, 444
""old-fashioned, 445
"sandwiches, 343
Irish stew, 125
Iron-rust stains, to remove (note), 546
Italian, bread, 376
"custard, 468
"pastes, soup, with, 11
T AMBON, 166
I " croquettes a la West-
-' phalie, 168
Jambon, frit, 167
"grille, 167
"souffle au, 168
Jamboree, 513
Jellied chicken, 193
"game pate, 223
"meat loaf, 230
"quail (see compote), 213
"tongue, 11
1
"veal, 145
Jellies, etc., 454
Jelly, chicken, 194
"currant, 511
"fancy, 466
"grape, 511
"lemon, 464
"orange, 463
""in baskets, 463
"sauce for venison, 263
"tapioca, 473
"wine, 465
Jerusalem artichokes, baked, 311
"braised, 311
"chips, 311
"a la creme, 310
"au gratin, 311
"puree of, 311
"salad " 329


586
INDEX.
Jim Crow, 438
Johnny-cake, 384
Jolly boys, 478
Julienne soup, 12
"potatoes, 276
Jumbles, 411
"old-fashioned, 411
Junket, 470
Jus, 246
KAFFEE-KUCHEN, 417
Kale, 304
Keeping meats warm, 89
Kidney omelet, 357
Kidneys, breaded, 127
"en brochette, 127
"calves' 163
lamb, 130
"stewed, 109
"a la terrapin, 110
Kippered herring, 65
Kirsch icing, 421
Kisselle, 473
Kisses, 407
Knuckle of veal browned, 136
Kummel cordial, 528
Kumyss, 530
LADY cake, 405
Laitues, au jus, 305
Laitues, puree de, 305
"salade, 326
Lamb, breast, braised, 128
"chops, broiled, 128
-" croquettes, 131
"curried, 128
Lamb, cutlets, 121
"devilled en caisses, 130
"epigram, sauce Tartare, 129
"fries, 131
"kidneys, for breakfast, 130
""broiled, 130
"roast, mint sauce, 128
Lambs' tongues, stewed, 129
"" a la Tartare, 130
"" tomato sauce, 130
Langue de bceuf braisee, 1ll
"" " "puree d'epi-
nards, 113
"" " "puree pommes
de terre, 112
"" " "sauce piquante,
"3
"" " "sauce Tartare,
112
"" " "sauce tomate,
113
"" "fumee, III
Langue de bceuf en gelee, 112
Lapin au chasseur, 219
"en compote, 220
"roti, 218
Laplanders, 387
Larding pork (note), 534
Larks, 208
Layer-cake, cocoa-nut No. I., 402
"'• No. II., 403
"coffee, 408
"au kirsch, 409
"No. I., 405
"No. II., 408
"orange, 408
"au rhum, 409
"sponge, 398
Legumes, puree de, 36
Lemon-brandy, 527
"custard, filling, 420
""pie, old-fashioned, 428
"icing, 421
jelly, 464
"pie, 432
"pudding, baked No. I., 445
"No. II., 446
""boiled, 446
"sauce (pudding), 452
"water ice, 500
Lentil, salad, 334
"soup, 32
Lentils, puree of, 307
"saute, 308
Lettuce, au jus, 305
"puree of, 305
"salad, 326
"soup, 17
Liaison, 245
Lievre, au chasseur, 219
"en compote, 220
"roti, 218
Lima beans, 306
"" and tomato soup, 39
Liver and bacon, 158
"beef's, 110
"braised, 158
"broiled, 161
"roasted, 159
"saute, 160
""with pickle sauce, 160
"smothered in onions, 160
Loaf, meat, 144
Lobster bisque, 36
"to boil, 78
"broiled a l'Americaine, 79
"chops, 80
"curry, 81
devilled, 81
"to dress, cold,79


INDEX.
587
Lobster, farcied, 81
"mayonnaise, 337
"a la Newberg, 80
"sauce, 250
to select (note), 534
Lyonnaise potatoes, 268
MACARONI, boiled, 225
"with cheese, 225
Macaroni, consomme with, 9
"au gratin, 226
*' a l'ltalienne, 225
""Milanaise, 224
"timbale of, 224
"and tomato soup, 24
"soup, 37
"and various entrees, 224
Macaroons, 407
"cocoa-nut, 407
Macedoine of fruits, 466
Mackerel, salt, broiled, 64
Madeira sauce, 254
Madeleines, 414
Maigre soup, economical, 34
""savory, 38
""summer, 34
""white, 34
"soupe, 35
Maitre d'hotel butter, 252
""sauce, 252
Manquet, 399
Marmalade, peach, 512
"pine-apple, 51a
Marrons, puree de, 380
"sauce aux, 259
Maryland, biscuit, 379
"chicken with corn dodgers,
188
"wine sauce (pudding), 453
Matelote, eggs en, 363
"de poisson, 45
"sauce, 262
"stewed fish en, 45
Mayonnaise, celery, 331
"de homard, 337
'• -lobster, 337
"de ris de veau, 336
"salmon with, 338
"of salmon, 338
"de saumon, 338
"sauce, 261, 324
"of sweetbreads, 336
"tomato, 332
"de veau, 335
""volaille, 334
Meat, cold (note), 535
"loaf, 144
"jellied, 230
Meat, sausages for breakfast, 232
"scalloped with tomatoes, 231
"tough, to make tender (note), 536
Meats, to be served cold (note), 536
""keep warm, 89
*' "re-heat, 89
"*' thaw frozen (note), 535
"Time-table for Cooking, 88
Meringues, 407
Mildew, to remove (note), 545
Milk soup, 28
Mince pie No. I., 426
*' "No. II., 427
Mint sauce, 260
Minute pudding, 442
Mock terrapin, 159
"turbot a la creme, 61
"turtle soup No. I., 14
"No. II., IS
Molasses cake, 401,
"candy, 513
Morue a la bonne femme, 57
Mousse, a l'ananas, 496
"aux peches, 486
""pommes, 486
Mouton, cotelettesde, grilles, 120
"""a la jardiniere,
123
"""panees, 121
"•* "enpapillotes,l23
"croquettes de, 124
"filet de, roti, 119
"gigot, bouilliauxcapres, 119
""braise aux navets, 119
""roti, 117
"haricot de, 125
"au kari, 124
""macaroni, 126
"poitrine de, au gratin, 120
"rognonsde,enbrochette,137
•« ""panes, 127
"selle de, rotie, 118
Muffins, bread, 381
"buttermilk, 380
"cream, 381
"Kalamazoo, 381
"plain, 380
"very useful batter for, 38a
Mulled claret, 525
Mulligatawny soup, 20
Mushroom dressing, 239
"omelet, 357
"sauce, 254
Mushrooms, baked, 286
"a la bordelaise, 286
"broiled, 284
"canned, stewed, 285
"fried, 284


S90
INDEX.
Paste, good plain, 425
'* suet, 426
Pastry croutons, 241
"Pies, etc., 423
"potato, 425
*' sandwiches, 427
Patates douces, 277
""caramel, 277
""puree, sauce tomate,
277
"*' sautees au beurre, 277
Pate, feuilletee, 423
"chicken, jellied, 191
"game, " 223
"de gibier en gelee, 223
"d'huitres, 74
Pates, scallop, 84
Peach, dried, pudding, 437
"filling, 419
"fritters, 477
"marmalade, 512
"short-cake, 434
"sponge, 486
"sweetmeats, 508
"tart, 433
Peaches, brandied, 506
"and cream, frozen, 495
"frozen, 501
"preserved in syrup, 505
"spiced, 519
Pea-nut candy, 514
Pea soup, green, 27
Peas, to boil green, 289
""" tender (note), 538
"puree of, 290
"" "dried, 307
"rule for boiling, "(note), 536
"stewed, 289
Pease soup, 31
Pebre, 188
Pecan-nut candy, 514
Peches glacees, 501
"" a la creme, 495
«« mousse aux, 486
Pepper (note), 538
"pickle, 516
"sauce, Spanish red, 256
"spirits of, 520
"vinegar, 520
Peppers, stuffed, 295
Perdrix aux choux, 211
"en gelee, 211
"grillees No. I., 209
""No. II., 210
*' roties, 211
Pheasants, partridges, quail (note),
535
Philadelphia ch1cken croquettes, 228
Philadelphia potatoes, 273
"White Mountain Cake,
403 , .
"fish-house punch, 528
"terrapin, 68
Pickle, black, 516
"celery, 516
"hash, 518
"Indian, 517
"pepper, 516
"sauce, 249
"spiced peaches, 519
Pickled cauliflower, 519
"gherkins, 519
"nasturtiums, 517
"onions, 518
"oysters, 73
"shad, 51
"string-beans, 519
Pickles, Catsups, etc., 515
"green tomato,515
•' soy, 515
«' " "sweet, 519
"and preserves (note), 533
Pie, apple, 431
"blackberry, 431
"cherry, 431
"chicken and oyster, 227
"cranberry, 431
"crust, flaky, 424
"currant, 431
"custard, 429
"lemon, 432
"" custard, old-fashioned,
428
"mince No. I., 426
""No. II., 427
"orange, 432
"oyster, 74
"peach (see tart), 433
"pumpkin, 429
"squash, 430
"sweet-potato custard, 430
"Washington, 416
Pieds de cochon frits, 172
Pie-plant, 488
"Charlotte, 483
to keep, 513
Pig, roast, 164
Pigeon pie, English, 217
Pigeons, broiled, 215
"compote of, 216
"grilles, 215
"roasted, 214
"stewed in consomme> »l6
Pigs' feet, fried, 172
"" soused, 172
Piments, farcis, 295


INDEX.
591
Piroiento dulce salsa, 256
Pine-apple cream, frozen, 495
"ice-cream, 497
"marmalade, 512
"mousse, 496
"to prepare for table, 489
"sherbet, 502
"snow, 467
"tart, 434
Pintade, braisée, 201
"grillée, 201
"rôtie, 200
Plain braise, 93
"cake, very light, 404
Planked shad, 50
"(note), 533
Plover, 209
Plum-pudding, 446
English, 447,
glacé, 498
"made over, 465
Plums, preserved, 508
Pluvier, 209
Poached, eggs, 360
""with anchovy toast,
360
Pois petits, No. I., 289
"No. II., 289
""sautés, 289
"purée de, 290
'' secs, purée de, 307
Poisson, coulis de, 38
"cuit au court bouillon, 43
"à la Delmonico, 60
Poivrade, sauce, 257
Pommes, Charlotte de, 483
"mousse aux, 486
"purée de, 262
"de terre en boulettes, 270
à la bourgeoise, 275
"Brabançonne,
271
au court-bouillon,
266
à la crème, 274
"créole, 270
croquettes de, 270
à la Delmonico, 273
"diable, 273
"duchesse, 274
farcies, 272
à la Française, 277
frites, 275
à la Hollandaise,
275
"Julienne, 276
"Lyonnaise, 268
au naturel, 266
(« u
«« •l
«« ««
«« ««
•« ««
•• ««
M M
M II
Pommes de terre en neige, 267
""" à la Parisienne, 276
'• "" "poulette, 272
""" en purée, 267
""" salade de, 334
""" sauce blanche, 2.74
""" sautées, 268
""" en soufflé, 271
"tourte aux, 431
Ponche, à la Romaine, 503
"au thé, 526
Pop-overs No. I., 387
No. II., 387
Porc, cochon de lait, 164
"côtelettes, grillées, cornichon»,
165
"filets, sautes, 165
"longe rôtie, 164
Pork, 164
"bacon in batter for breakfast,
173
""fried No. I., 173
No. II., 173
""toasted, 173
"and beans, 166
"chops broiled, pickle sauce, 165
"créole sausages, 170
"head cheese, 169
"larding (note), 534
"loin roast, 164
"pigs' feet, soused, 172
"" " fried, 172
"roast pig, 164
"sausage roll, 171
"sausages with cabbage, 172
""à la créole, 170
•« "fried with apples, 171
""home-made breakfast,
171
"sausages, to keep (note), 535
""with purée of potatoes,
171
"scrapple, 170
"tenderloins, 165
Potage, à la d'Artois, 27
""bonne femme, 33
"" "ménagère, 16
"•' Chantilly, 32
""Condé, 32
""Crécy No. I., 26
""No. II., 26
"croûte-au-pot, 12
"à la Julienne, 12
"aux laitues, 17
*' au macaroni, 9
"de nouilles, No. I., 9
"" " No. II., 10
« « " No, III., IO


592
INDEX.
Potage, Parmentier, 27
"aux pates d'ltalie, II
"a la paysanne, 34
"Russe, 17
"au sagou, 10
"a la semoule, 12
"au tapioca, 9
"aux tomates, 30
"vermicelli, II
Potato balls, 270
"chips, 275
"croquettes, 270
"dressing, 239
"hash, cream, 274
""fried, 269
"pastry, 425
"pudding, 443
"puff, 269
"salad, 334
"snow, 267
"souffle, 271
"soup, 27
Potatoes, baked, 267
"to boil, 266
""" new, 267
"boiled, cold, 268
"bourgeoise, 275
"a la Brabanconne, 271
""Delmonico, 273
""diable, 273
""duchesse, 274
"farcied, 272
"a la Fran9aise, 277
"fricasseed, 274
"a la Hollandaise, 275
""Julienne, 276
"Lyonnaise, 268
"mashed, 267
"New Orleans, 270
"a la Parisienne, 276
•' Philadelphia, 273
"roast, with meat, 268
"saute, 268
"to serve with boiled fish, 266
"stewed, 272
Pot-au-feu, 5
Pot-pie, beefsteak, 104
"veal, 138
Potomac herring, 65
Pot-roast, 93
Poule au riz, 196
Poulet, beignets, a la Tartare, 187
"au blanc, 195
"braise aux carottes, 180
""au macaroni, 179
"aux topinambours, 180
"a la diable, 194
"diable, en caisses, 190
Poulet, a 1'Espagnole, l8l
""estragon, 195
"farci aux tomates, 194
"filets de, sautes, 185
"fricassee, No. I., 182
No. II., 183
""sauce tomate, 190
"grille aux cressons, 179
"au kari, 184
"matelote de, 187
"a la reine, 189
"saute aux champignons, 186
"""petits pois, 185
Poulets rotis, 176
Poulette sauce, 248
Poultry, 175
"to clean, 175
"to truss, 176
Pound cake, 396
"cakes, small, 409
Preface, iii.
Preserves, 505
"blackberry sweetmeats, 509
"brandied peaches, 506
"cherries, in syrup, 508
•' cherry sweetmeats, 510
"citron (see watermelon), 507
"currant jelly, 511
"«« sweetmeats, 510
"drumheads (see water-
melon), 507
"grape jelly, 511
""sweetmeats, 510
"jamboree, 513
"peach marmalade, 512
""sweetmeats, 508
"peaches, in syrup, 505
"pie-plant, 513
"pine-apple marmalade, 512
"plums, 508
"strawberry sweetmeats, 509
"syrup for, 505
"watermelon rind, 507
Promises, 410
Prune pudding, 441
Pudding, amber, 444
"Amherst, 447
"apple, frozen, 497
""old-fashioned, 449
""spiced, 436
"batter, baked, 442
"Beaulieu, 438
"beefsteak, 104
"blackberry, baked, 436
""• boiled, 436
"brown Betty, 435
"cabinet, 437
""cold, 462


INDEX.
593
Pudding, cherry, 442
"chocolate, 444
"cocoa-nut No. I., 443
No. II., 443
"cottage, 441
"date, 449
fig, 449
•' frozen fruit, 499
"gelatine, 461
"huckleberry, 437
•' "roly-poly, 441
"iced, 500
^" Indian, 444
•• "old-fashioned, 445
"lemon, baked No. I., 445
« «« "No. II., 44°
« "boiled, 446
"minute, 442
"Nesselrode, 498
"orange, baked No. I., 445
•« « "No. II., 445
«• "boiled, 446
"pan-dowdy, 435
•« peach (dried), 437
"plum, 446
m "glace, 498
•• "English, 447
« "made over, 465
•« potato, 443
•* prune, 441
•« rice cream, 439
•• "No. I., 439
•• "No. II., 44°
""and peach, 440
"roly-poly baked, 440
•« "boiled, 441
"royal Coburg, 438
•« sauce, brandy, 452
•• "caramel, 451
•« "custard, 451
""golden, 450
•• "hard, 452
•• " *' plain, 452
•• "lemon, 452
•• "Maryland wine, 453
""silver, 451
"strawberry, 451
•• "velvet, 450
"whipped cream, 450
""wine, 453
"sauces, 450
"Scandinavian fish, 53
*' snow, 461
"spice, 448
"suet, 448
"sweet potato, 441
"Yorkshire, 93, 392
Puddings, 423
Puff-paste, 423
Puffs, 386
"bread, 376
"breakfast, 387
Pumpkin pie, 429
Punch, frozen, 503
"Philadelphia fish-house, 528
"Roman, 503
"tea, 526
Puree Chantilly, 32, 307
"a la Conde, 32, 306
"•' Dustan, 33
"de legumes, 36
""pois sees, 31, 3°7
""pommes, 262
"Soubise, 29
"de tomates, 23
"" " au macaroni, 24
"" " aux nouilles, 24
"" " "quenelles, 24
Purees in general, 24
QUAIL, broiled, 212
"en compote (cold), 213
"roasted, 212
"saute in lard, 213
Queen cakes, 414
"Elizabeth's toast, 482
Quenelles, 233
"fish, 234
"de poisson, 234
"Soyer's, 234
Queues de bceuf, a la Tartare, 108
Quinces, baked, 487
RABBIT, barbecued, 218
"- au chasseur, 219
"potted, 220
Racahout, 525
Ragout de bceuf au gombo, 109
""chevreuil, 222
""concombres, 302
Raifort, sauce au, 260
Raisins, to stone (note), 541
Raspberry, Charlotte, 484
"and currant jelly, 511
"ice, 501
"Saracen, 484
"short-cake, 434
"toast, 485
"vinegar, 527
Ratatouille, creole, 142
Ravigote sauce, 258
Red bean salad, 330
"" soup, 32
Reed-birds, 209
"broiled, 209
Re-heating meats, 89


594
INDEX.
Reine, soup a la, No. I., 18
'• " " No. II., 1g
Relishes For Breakfast, 347
"Savory, 340
Remedy for bums (note), 546
Remoulade, sauce, 259
""verte, 259
Rhubarb, 488
Rice, boiled, 323
"border, 322
"cream pudding, 439
"creole, 323
"griddle-cakes, 389
"parched, 530
"and peach, 440
"pudding No. I., 439
"MP No- ll, 440
"souffle, 481
"soup, II
""without meat, 27
"waffles, 383
"water, 530
Ris de veau, beignets de, 147
aux champignons, 149
grilles, 150
au kari, 150
en mayonnaise, 336
panes, 146
piques et braise, 147
a la poulette, 149
rotis, 150
sautes, 148
Rissoles, 229
Riz, 323
"creme de, 28
"a la creme, 439
"au lait No. I., 439
""" No. II., 440
"au maigre, 27
"perle 323
Roast beef, 90
Roasted ice-cream, 499
Robert sauce, 257
ROdgrod (Danish), 472
Rognons de bceuf sautes, 109
"en brochette, 127
"de mouton panes, 127
"a la terrapin, 110
"de veau, 163
Roll, beef, 108
Soils, bread, 375
"corn, 386
Roly-poly pudding, baked, 440
•« "boiled, 441,
"huckleberry, 441
Romaine salad, 327
Root-beer, 527
Rosbif, 90
Rouleau de bceuf, 108
Roulette, boeuf en, 108
Roux, brown, 243
"white, 244
Royal Coburg pudding, 438
Royale, consomme a la, 8
Rum in cooking, use of, 543
"icing, 421
"omelet, 357
Russe, salade, 333
Russian salad, 333
"soup, 17
Rust, to remove, from steel, 546
Rye bread, 374
SAGE dressing, 240
"stuffing, 239
Sago soup, 10
Salad, apple and orange, 488
"asparagus, 328
"bouilli, 336
"cauliflower, 329
"celery, 330
*' "cabbage, and beets, 330
""doucette, and beets, 330
""mayonnaise, 331
"cheese, 342
"chicken, 335
"" and celery, 335
"" "lettuce, 334
"chickory, 327
"cold slaw, 331
"" " old-fashioned, 331
*' corn, 327
"crab, 83
"cress, pepper-grass, and cher-
vil, 327
"cucumber, 301
""and onion, 328
"dandelion, 327
"a la Demidoff, 333
*' of endives, 326
"escarole, 327
"fetticus, 327
"fish, 47
"hard-boiled egg, 337
"Jerusalem artichokes, 329
"lentil, 334
"lettuce, 326
"lobster, 337
"okra, 329
"orange, 487
"potato, 334
"red-bean, 330
"Romaine, 327
"Russian, 333
"salmon, mayonnaise of, 338
"sardine, 337


INDEX.
595
Salad, scallop, 84
"shad-roe, mayonnaise of, 338
"shrimp, 339
"string-bean, 328
"sweetbread, mayonnaise, 336
"tomato, 331
"" mayonnaise, 332
"turkey olio, 335
"veal, 335
«4 water-cress, 327
"white-bean, 332
Salade, asperges en, 328
"de bouilli, 336
""celeri, 330
"" " en mayonnaise, 331
"chou-fleur en, 329
"de concombres, 328
""crevettes, 339
""gombos, 329
"haricots, verts en, 328
"de lentilles, 334
"mayonnaise de saumon, 338
"""volaille, 334
"ceufs durs en, 337
"de pommes de terre, 334
"russe, 333
"de tomates, 331
"" " en mayonnaise,
332
"de topinambours, 329
Sally Lunn, 377
Salmi de canard, 203
"of tame duck, 203
""wild " with olives, 206
Salmon, boiled, 56
"croquettes, 56
"mayonna1se of, 338
"with mayonnaise sauce, 338
"steaks, 56
Salt cod, a la bonne femme, 57
"" fish, to freshen, 64
Salt mackerel, broiled, 64
Salted almonds, 344
Salt-rising bread, 376
Salsilis, beignets de, 316
"coquilles de, 316
"au gratin, 316
Salsify, 315
"cakes, fried, 316
fritters, 316
"mock-oysters of, 316
"saute, 315
"scalloped, 316
"stewed, with cream sauce, 315
Samp, 309
"fried, 309
Sandwiches, Indian, 343
"pastry, 427
Saracen, raspberry, 484
"strawberry, 484
Sardine omelet, 354
salad, 337
Sardines on toast with cheese, 342
Sauce, Allemande, 248
"anchovy, 250
"apple, 262
"Bearnaise, 252
"Bechamel, 247
"au beurre d'anchois, 250
"beurre maitre d'hotel, 252
"au beurre noir, 254
"blanche, 250
"blending for, 245
"blonde, 260
brown, 246
""gravy, 246
""roux, 243
"butter, plain melted, 255
"caper, 250
"caramel (pudding), 451
"cauliflower, 251
"celery, 249
"aux champignons, 254
"chestnut, 259
"aux choux-fleurs, 251
"coloring for, 245
"aux concombres, 262
""cornichons, 249
"cranberry, 263
"cream, 247
'* cucumber, 262
"custard (pudding), 451
"devil, 249
"diable, 249
"Espagnole, 246
"golden (pudding), 450
"hard "452
"hard-egg, 250
"Hollandaise, 255
"homard, 250
"horse-radish, 260
"aux huitres, 251
"jelly, for venison, 263
"lemon (pudding), 452
"lobster, 250
"madeira, 254
"maitre d'hotel, 252
4' " "butter, 252
"aux marrons, 259
"Maryland wine (pudding), 453
"matelote, for fish, 262
"mayonnaise, 261
"melted butter, plain, 255
"mint, 260
"mushroom, for filet of beef, 254
"oyster, 251


596
INDEX.
Sauce, parsley. 256
""cream, 251
"pepper, Spanish red, 256
"persil, 256
"pickle, 249
"poivrade, 257
"poulette, 248
"au raifort, 260
"ravigote 258
"remoulade, 259
""verte, 259
""Robert, 257
"shad-roe, 258
"silver (pudding), 451
"to skim (note), 538
"soubise, 257
"Spanish red pepper, 256
"strawberry (pudding), 451
"Tartare, 261
"terrapin, 253
"tomato, 255
""with wine, 256
"veloute', 251
"velvet (pudding), 450
"vinaigrette, 258
"whipped-cream (pudding), 450
"white, 250
""roux for, 244
"wine (pudding), 453
Sauces, general directions for, 243
Saumon, croquettes de, 56
"sauce mayonnaise, 56
Saucisses aux choux, 172
"a la creole, 170
"frites aux pommes, 171
"puree de pommes de terre,
171
Sausage, dressing for turkeys, 239,
241
"meat for breakfast, 232
Sausages with cabbage, 172
"creole, 170
"fried with apples, 171
"home-made breakfast, 171
"to keep (note), 535
"with puree of potatoes, 171
roll, 171
Savory Relishes, 340
"soup, 16
""maigre, 38
Savoy cake, 398
Scalloped oysters, 75
Scallops, devilled, 84
a la diable, 84
fried, 83
"pates, 84
"a la poulette, 84
salad, 84
Scallops, stewed, 84
Scandinavian frsh pudding, 53
Schmier-kase, 371
Scotch broth, 19
"roll, 107
"woodcock, 343
Scrapple, 170
Select oysters, to (note), 533
Shad, baked No. I., 49
""No. II., 5o
"boiled, 49
"cold boiled a la Tartare, 50
"cutlets a l'oseille, 49
"planked, 50
"(note\ 533
"" pickled, 51
"" soused, 51
Shad-roe croquettes, 51
"salad, 338
Sheeps' kidneys en brochette, 127
Sheets of iron or tin (note), 533
Shell-fish, 68
"clams, chowder No. I., 86
« " "No. II., 87
""with cream, 85
""farcied, 85
""fritters, 85
""to open, 37, 85
""raw, 85
""roast, 86
"'" stew, 85
"crabs, devilled, 82
"•' farcied, 82
""hard, boiled, 82
""salad, 83
""soft-shell, fried, 82
"lobster, bisque, 36
""to boil, 78
""broiled a l'Ameri-
caine, 79
•• "chops, 80
""curry, 81
•« "devilled, 81
'« "to dress cold, 79
""farcied, 81
""mayonnaise, 337
""a la Newberg, 80
""sauce, 250
""to select (note), 534
•' oyster balls, 235
"oysters en brochette, 77
""in a chafing-dish, 77
""and chicken pie,
227
""coddled, 73
""curried, 76
""devilled, 71
""dressing, 240


INDEX.
597
Shell-fish, oysters, fried, 70
""fritters, 72
""force-meat, 235
""and macaroni, 78
« "minced, 77
""omelet, 369
1 "pan-roast, 71
•• "au Parmesan, 73
""for pates, etc., 76
""pickled, 73
« "pie, 74
'• "4 la poulette, 72
""raw, on a block of
ice, 69
""roast, 71
•• "sauce, 251
""scalloped, 75
- "to select (note), 533
""on % shell, 70
""steamed, 71
""stewed, 72
"terrapin, Baltimore, 69
""Philadelphia, 68
Shepherd's pie, 126
Sherbet, currant, 503
"orange, 502
"pine-apple, 502
"strawberry, 503
Short-cake, peach, 434
"raspberry, 434
"strawberry, 434
Short-cakes, 378
"cream, 379,
Shrewsbury court-bouillon, 65
Shrimp salad, 339
Sl1p, 47°
Smelts, baked, 52
"broiled, 52
"fried, 52
"mayonnaise, 53
"stewed, 53
Smoked beef with cream, 109
""and eggs, 358
"tongue, to boil, III
Snipe, roasted No. I., 208
""No. II., 208
"saute1, 207
Snow cream, 456
"pudding, 461
Soda biscuits, 378
Soft-shell crabs, fried, 82
Sole a l'Aurore, 63
"fried, 62
"fillets of, maitre d'hotel, 63
«• •« "à la Orly, 62
Sorbet, 503
Sorrel, puree of, 304
"soup, 33
Soubise, rmreV, 39
Souffle, arrowroot, 480
"chicken No I., 182
"•• No. II., 186
"ginger, 480
"ham, 168
"potato, 271
"rice, 481
"tomato, 282
Soufflee, omelette, 479
Soup, amber consomme, 7
"arrowroot, II
"asparagus, 25
"bean, black, 31
""lima and tomatoes, 39
""red, 32
'• "turtle, 31
""white, 33
"beef anu okra, 17
*' bisque of clams, 37
« ""lobster, 36
'• "tomato, 30
"blending for, 245
*' bouillon, fait en I heure, 8
•' " gilt-edged, 3
"broth, hasty, 8
""made in I hour, 8
"calf's head, 13
"chicken consomme, 8
""gumbo, 23
•« " "file, 21
"clearing, 6
"coloring, 6, 245
"consomme, I
•« "amber, 7
""dore, 7
«« "with macaroni, 9
•« "aux ceufs poches, 10
"" with poached eggs,
10
«• " a la royale, 8
""de volaille, 8
"crab gumbo No. I., 23
"" No. II., 39
"Crecy No. I., 26
""No. II., 26
"creme de riz, 28
"croflte-au-pot, 12
"economical, 16
""maigre, 34
"farina, 12
"fish, 39
"General Directions for, I
"giblet, 21
"green-pea, 27
"with Italian pastes, II
"Julienne, 12
"lentil, 32


INDEX.
599
Suet pudding, 448
Swedish noodle soup, 10
Sweetbreads, Baltimore style, 152
"braised and larded, 147
"broiled, 150
"en casserole, 151
"croquettes of, 151
"curried, 150
"fried, 146
"fritters of, 147
"mayonnaise of, 336
"with mushrooms, 149
"note, 534
"a la poulette, 149
"to prepare, 146
'• roasted, 150
"saute, 148
Sweet-herb, dressing for veal, 24O
Sweetmeat omelet, 358
Sweetmeats, blackberry, 509
"cherry, 510
"currant, 510
"grape, 510
"peach, 508
"strawberry, 509
Sweet-pickle, green tomato, 519
Sweet-potato custard pie, 430
"dressing for turkey, 240
"pudding, 441
Sweet potatoes, to bake (note), 538
"" baked, 277
"" boiled, 278
"" caramel, 277
'• " fried, 277
"" puree, baked, 278
•« " "with tomato
sauce, 279
*' " roasted with meat, 278
Syrup, 453
"to check boiling (note), 542
"for griddle-cakes, 453
""preserves, 505
TABLE of Comparative Weights
and Measures, xii.
Tame duck, 203
Tapioca jelly, 473
"soup, 9
"whip, 474
Tarragon, vinegar, 520
Tart, cranberry, 433
"creamed apple, 435
"peach, 433
"pine-apple, 434
"strawberry, 434
Tartare sauce, 261
Tea biscuit, 378
"cakes, cream, 393
«« ••
•• ««
«« ««
«« ««
Tea, iced, 524
"to make good, 523
"punch, 526
"Russian, 524
Terrapin, Baltimore, 69
"mock, 159
"Philadelphia, 68
"sauce, 253
Tete de veau, fromage de, 154
au gratin, 153
"naturel, 153
a la terrapin, 155
aux tomales, 154
Timbale de macaroni, 224
Time-table for game, 174
""meats, 88
""poultry, 174
'4 "vegetables, 264
Tipsy cake, 467
Toad-in-the-hole, 232
Toast, anchovy, 343
"apricot, 485
"Bombay, 343
"cherry, 484
"Queen Elizabeth's, 482
"raspberry, 485
"Spanish, 481
"water, 530
Tomates, farcies 279
""a l'ecarlate, 280
""aux champignons, 28a
"•« a la reine, 280
"frites a la creme, 279
"macaroni aux, 283
"riz aux, 282
"en souffle, 282
Tomato bisque, 36
"catsup No. I.. 520
""No. II., 521
"and lima bean soup, 39
""macaroni soup, 24
"mayonnaise, 332
"pickle, green, 515
*' rice, 282
"salad, 331
"sauce, 255
""with wine, 256
"souffle, 282
"soup No. I., 23
«• "No. II., 3°
""with noodles, 24
«« ""quenelles, 24
"soy, green, 515
"sweet-pickle, green, 519
Tomatoes, baked, 279
"a l'ecarlate, 280
"fried with cream, 279
*' and macaroni, 283


INDEX.
6or
Veal, jellied, 145
"knuckle, browned, 136
"liver and bacon, 158
"*' braised, 158
""broiled, 161
« "roasted, 159
""saute, 160
'« » «• with pickle sauce,
160
""smothered in onions, 160
"loaf, 143
"loin, roast, 133
"mock-terrapin, 159
"olives, 143
"pot-pie, 138
•' salad, 335 , 3 .. , .
"sweetbreads, bra1sed and larded,
147
« « broiled, 150
•• •« en casseroles, 151
« croquettes, 151
«« " curried, 150
•• " fried, 146
•• " fritters, 147
« — mayonnaise of, 336
•• •• with mushrooms,
149
"a la poulette, 149
•• " to prepare, 146
"" roasted, 150
•• •« saute, 148
"tripe, fried, 162
•« "a la poulette, 162
•« "to prepare, 162
""saute, 162
"blanquette de, 140
Veau, en caisses, 144
"cervelle de, beignets de, 156
» ""au beurre noir, 157
« *' "frites, 156
« •« "a la poulette, 156
•« «• "sautees a la Mila-
naise, 157
"cceur de, farci, 163
"cotelettes sautees, 139
«« « "4 la Mila-
naise, 139
"creme de, 141
"croquettes de, 139
"fricandeau, 134
•« " a l'oseille, 135
«« " "Soubise, 135
"foie de, braise, 158
«« «• •• grille, 161
'• •« "roti, 159
u •« •• saute, 160
•• •«• " aux cornichons,
160
Veau, galantine de, 140
"en gelee, 145
"jarret, pane, 136
"longe, rotie, 133
"mayonnaise de, 335
"noix, braisees a la jardiniere, 137
""panees, 136
""sautees, 138
•• •« " a la Maryland
137
"aux olives, 14J
"pain de, 143
"ratatouille a la creole, 142
"ris de, beignets de, 147
« "" aux champignons, 149
""" en casseroles, 151
""" croquettes de, 151
""" grilles, 150
""" au kari, 150
'•• "" panes, 146
"•' " piques et braises, 147
4 la poulette, 149
•' "" rotis, 150
""" sautes, 148
"rognons, 163
"rouelle, braisee, 134
•« " "sauce Soubise
134
"rouelle, farcie, 133
"tete de, fromage de, 154
""" au gratin, 153
"'« •' "naturel, 153
""" a la terrapin, 155
""" aux tomates, 154
"tripe frite, 162
"a la poulette, 162
"saute, 162
Vegetable, press (note), 532
"soup, 36
Vegetables, artichokes, French globe,
312
""Jerusalem, 310
""Jerusalem,
baked, 311
•• "Jerusalem,
braised, 311
"— Jerusalem,
chips, 311
•« "Jerusalem,
au gratin, 3IX
""Jerusalem,
puree, 311
"asparagus, to boil, 287
•« "tips, stewed,
288
"beans, Boston baked, 307
•« *' Creole and bacon,
308


602
INDEX
Vegetables beans, lima, 306
""red, puree of, 306
•« *' string, 305
"beets, 318
"beet-tops, 304
"broccoli, 292
"cabbage, and celery
stewed, 293
•« "summer, 292
•• "stewed, 293
""stuffed, 231
•• " "red, 232
"winter, 292
"canned, 294
*' carrots, 316
•« "caramel, 318
""fricasseed, 317
«• "Lyonnaise, 317
•• "sauted, 317
cauliflower, 291
« •• augratin,29I
•« "tomato sauce,
292
"celeriac, 310
"celery, fritters, 310
""au jus, 309
•« "stewed, 310
•• chestnuts, puree of, 308
"chickory, puree of, 304
"corn, baked, 296
•« "to boil, 296
""fritters, 297
""oysters, 296
■• "pudding, as a, 295
". cucumbers, dressed, 301
"fried, 300
•• « fritters, 302
«• "a la maitre
d'hotel, 301
« "a la poulette,
301
•• *' ragout of, and
onions, 302
« "stewed, 299
•• "stuffed, 300
"dandelions, 304
"egg-plant, baked, 297
«• "fried, 298
•• "stuffed, 298
"endives, puree of, 304
"kale, 304
"lentils, puree of, 307
« "saute, 308
"lettuce, au jus, 305
•« "puree of, 305
"lima beans, 306
"mushrooms, baked, 286
Vegetables, mushrooms, a la borde-
laise, 286
•• "broiled, 284
•• "canned,stew-
ed, 285
•« •« fried, 284
•• •• remarks. 283
•• "scalloped,
287
•« •« stewed with
cream, 285
•« "stewed plain,
285
■• okra, 314
•' "stewed, 314
•• "and tomatoes stew-
ed, 314
•• onions, baked, 313
""to boil, 312
""cream sauce, 313
•' "glazed, 313
""Spanish, 314
"oyster-plant, 315
•• "cream sauce,
315
•« "fried, 316
•• "fritters, 316
•• «« au gratin,
316
"mock oys-
ters, 316
•« "saute, 315
•• parsnips, to boil, 318
« "fried, 320
h ""balls, 320
•• "fritters, 319
«« "mashed, 320
«• "saute, 319
•• "stewed, cream
sauce, 319
"peas, to boil, 289
>• "green, 289
«« ""stewed, 289
""puree of, 290
k » ""dried, 307
«• peppers, stuffed, 295
"potato balls, 270
""chips, 275
""croquettes, 270
•• "hash, cream, 274
« •« "fried, 269
""puff, 269
"•« snow, 267
•« «' souffle, 271
"potatoes, baked, 267
« "to boil, 266
•• "" new, 367


INDEX.
603
potatoes, with boiled fish,
266
"a la bourgeoise,
275
"a la Braban-
conne, 271
"cold boiled, 268
*' a la Delmonico,
273
"a la diable, 273
""duchesse,
274
"farcied, 272
"a la Francaise,
277 ,
"fricasseed, 274
"a la Hollan-
daise, 275
"a la Julienne,
276
"Lyonnaise, 268
"mashed, 267
"New Orleans,
270
"a la Parisienne,
276
"Philadelphia,
273
"roast, with meat,
268
"saute, 268
"stewed, 272
red beans, puree of, 306
remarks, 265
rice, boiled, 323
"border, 322
"creole boiled, 323
samp, 309
"fried, 309
to soften water for, 537
sorrel, puree of, 304
spinach, a la creme, 303
"au jus, 302
"pie-plant, 303
sprouts, Brussels, 293
sprue and eggs, 288
squash, summer, 294
"Turk's head, 294
string-beans, 305
sweet potatoes, baked, 277
""boiled, 278
""caramel,
277
""fried, 277
""puree baked,
278
"«« puree tomato
to sauce, 277
Vegetables, sweet potatoes, roasted
with meat, 278
"Time-Table for, 264
"tomato, rice, 282
""souffle, 282
"tomatoes, baked, 279
""fried, 279
""with macaroni,
283
•« "roasted with
beef, etc., 280
•« "scalloped, 281
""stewed, 281
""stuffed with
mushrooms,
282
•« "stuffed alareine,
280
""stuffed with to-
mato sauce,280
"turnips,'baked with mut-
ton, 321
""to boil, 320
""browned, 322
""cream sauce for
boiled mutton,
321
""glazed, 321
""au gratin, 322
"""jus, 321
""mashed, 321
"tumip-tops, 304
Veloutee, creme, 460
"sauce, 251
Velvet cakes for tea, 393
"cream, 460
"sauce (pudding), 450
Venison in a chafing dish, 222
"haunch of, No. I., 220
"""No. II., 221
note, 534
"pasty, 222
"saddle of, 220
"steak, broiled No. I., 221
"" "No. II., 221
"stew, 222
Vermicelli soup, II
Vinaigre aromatique, 521
"a l'estragon, 520
"framboise, 527
Vinaigrette, sauce, 258
Vin chaud, 526
Vinegar, pepper, 520
"raspberry, 527
"spiced, 521
"tarragon, 520
Virginia batter-cake, 378
"corn-cakes, 385


6o4
INDEX.'
Vitement fait, 411
Volaille, chaud-froid de, 193
"croquettes de, No. I., 192
"No. II., 193
"mayonnaise de, 334
"pain de, 191
Volailles, foies de, sautes, 181
Vol-au-vent, 230
"bourgeois, 226
WAFFLES, plain, 383
rice, 383
Waffles, without yeast or soda, 383
W alnut cake, 409
"(black) candy, 514
"wafers, 412
Wash for cleaning gloves, 547
Washing, fluid, 547
Washington pie, 416
Water of boiled p'otatoes, 537
"rice, 530
"to soften, for vegetables, 537
"toast, 530
Water-cress, 327
Water-ice, lemon (see ices), 500
Watermelon rind, preserved, 507
Wedding cake, 394
Welsh rare-bit, 340
"*- to serve, 544
Westphalia croquettes, 168
Whip, apple, 474
"tapioca, 474
Whipped cream, 457
"sauce (pudding), 450
White, maigre soup, 34
"mountain cake (Phila.), 403
"roux, 244
"sauce, 250
"soup,18
Whitebait, 48
"omelet, 370
White-bean soup, 33
Wild duck, jelly sauce, 207
""salmi with olives, 206
""205
Wine cake, 408
"currant, 527
"icing, 422
"jelly, 465
"sauce (pudding), 453
Winter okra soup, 35
Woodcock, roasted No. I., 208
""No. II., 208
"saute, 207
"Scotch, 343
YARMOUTH bloaters, 65
Yeast, 373
Yeast, (note), 541
Yorkshire pudding, 93, 392



INDEX TO SUPPLEMENTARY RECEIPTS.
ANCHOVIED eggs, 558
Artichokes stuffed with mush-
rooms, 551
Artichauts farcis aux champignons, 551
BEEF, carbonade à la flamande,
Beignets a l'lndienne, 553
Biscuits, fairies, 55S
"thin, 559
CAKES, crisp cookies, 559
"German sand tart, 559
Carbonade à la flamande, 550
Casseroles salmonettes, 554
Cherry-bounce, 562
Cherry-brandy, 563
Chestnut cream, 561
Cocoanut pudding, myrtle, 560
Cookies, crisp, 559
Corn, fritters of canned, 553
Crevettes aux tomates, 555
DEVILLED sardines, 555
"turkey-leg, 556
EGGS, anchovied, 558
"a la Carolina, 557
Eggs, Creole style, 556
«« au gratin, 557
"à la Marchand de Vin, 557
""' Stewart, 558
FAIRIES, 558
Faisan à la gele'e, 551
Fish, sardines devilled, 555
"trout, bechamel, 548
""broiled, 548
""matelote of, 549
""planked, 548
""salad, 549
"salmonettes, casseroles, 554
Flemish liver-pie, 551
Flummery, 561
Fritters of canned corn, 553
GAME, partridge jellied, 551
"pheasant "551
Glace', 561
Guocchi à la Romaine, 555
JELLIED apricot pudding, 560
fig "560
"peach "560
Jellied prune pudding, 560
K
L
UMYSS, simplified, 563
IVER-PIE, Flemish, 551
Lobster croquettes, plain, 549
MACEDOINE of vegetables jel-
lied, 554
OEUFS à la Carolina, 557
"Creole, 556
Oeufs, gourmets, 558
"au gratin, 557
"à la Marchand de Vin, 557
"Stewart, 558
Olive salad, 553
PAIN de foie de veau, 551
Partridge jellied, 551
Perdreau à la gelee, 551
Pheasant jellied, 551
Pommes de terre au gratin, 553
Potatoes au gratin, 553
Preserves, quince, 5o2
Prune pudding, 559
"" jellied, 560
Pudding, apricot, jellied, 560
fig, "560
"myrtle cocoanut, 560
"peach, jellied, 560
prune, 559
""jellied, 560
^^UINCE preserves, 562
605





596
INDEX.
Sauce, parsley. 256
*' ** cream, 251
"pepper, Spanish red, 256
"persil, 256
"pickle, 249
"poivrade, 257
"poulette, 248
"au raifort, 260
"ravigote 258
"remoulade, 259
""verte, 259
""Robert, 257
"shad-roe, 258
"silver (pudding), 451
"to skim (note), 538
"soubise, 257
"Spanish red pepper, 256
"strawberry (pudding), 451
"Tartare, 261
"terrapin, 253
"tomato, 255
""with wine, 256
"veloute', 251
"velvet (pudding), 450
"vinaigrette, 258
"whipped-cream (pudding), 450
"white, 250
""roux for, 244
"wine (pudding), 453
Sauces, general directions for, 243
Saumon, croquettes de, 56
"sauce mayonnaise, 56
Saucisses aux choux, 172
"a la creole, 170
"frites aux pommes, 171
"puree de pommes de terre,
171
Sausage, dressing for turkeys, 239,
241
"meat for breakfast, 232
Sausages with cabbage, 172
"creole, 170
"fried with apples, 171
"home-made breakfast, 171
"to keep (note), 535
"with puree of potatoes, 171
roll, 171
Savory Relishes, 340
"soup, 16
""maigre, 38
Savoy cake, 398
Scalloped oysters, 75
Scallops, devilled, 84
"a la diable, 84
"fried, 83
"pates, 84
"a la poulette, 84
"salad, 84
Scallops, stewed, 84
Scandinavian fish pudding, 53
Schmier-kase, 371
Scotch broth, 19
"roll, 107
"woodcock, 343
Scrapple, 170
Select oysters, to (note), 533
Shad, baked No. I., 49
"No. II., 50
boiled, 49
cold boiled a la Tartare, 50
cutlets a l'oseille, 49
planked, 50
"(notel, 533
"pickled, 51
"soused, 51
Shad-roe croquettes, 51
"salad, 338
Sheeps' kidneys en brochette, 127
Sheets of iron or tin (note), 533
Shell-fish, 68
"clams, chowder No. I., 86
"" "No. II., 87
""with cream, 85
•« "farcied, 85
"•' fritters, 85
""to open, 37, 85
""raw, 85
""roast, 86
""stew, 85
"crabs, devilled, 82
""farcied, 82
""hard, boiled, 82
""salad, 83
""soft-shell, fried, 82
"lobster, bisque, 36
""to boil, 78
""broiled a l'Ameri-
caine, 79
""chops, 80
""curry, 81
""devilled, 81
""to dress cold, 79
""farcied, 81
""mayonnaise, 337
""a la Newberg, 80
'« "sauce, 250
""to select (note), 534
"oyster balls, 235
"oysters en brochette, 77
""in a chafing-dish, 77
""and chicken pie,
227
«' "coddled, 73
""curried, 76
devilled, 71
240


INDEX.
$97
Shell-fish, oysters, fried, 70
'• "fritters, 72
""force-meat, 235
""and macaroni, 78
""minced, 77
""omelet, 369
!" pan-roast, 71
•• "au Parmesan, 73
""for pates, etc., 76
« "pickled, 73
« "pie, 74
""a la poulette, 72
""raw, on a block of
ice, 69
""roast, 71
""sauce, 251
""scalloped, 75
""to select (note), 533
•« "on % shell, 70
« "steamed, 71
""stewed, 72
"terrapin, Baltimore, 69
Philadelphia, 68
Shepherd's pie, 126
Sherbet, currant, 503
"orange, 502
"pine-apple, 502
"strawberry, 503
Short-cake, peach, 434
"raspberry, 434
"strawberry, 434
Short-cakes, 378
"cream, 379,
Shrewsbury court-bouillon, 65
Shrimp salad, 339
Sl1p, 470
Smelts, baked, 52
"broiled, 52
*' fried, 52
"mayonnaise, 53
"stewed, 53
Smoked beef with cream, 109
""and eggs, 358
"tongue, to boil, III
Snipe, roasted No. I., 208
•f "No. II., 208
"saute, 207
Snow cream, 456
"pudding, 461
Soda biscuits, 378
Soft-shell crabs, fried, 82
Sole a l'Aurore, 63
"fried, 62
"fillets of, maitre d'hotel, 63
"" "a la Orly, 62
Sorbet, 503
Sorrel, puree of, 304
"soup, 33
Soubise, rNireV, 39
Souffle, arrowroot, 480
*' chicken No I., 182
» "No. II., 186
"ginger, 480
"ham, 168
"potato, 271
"rice, 481
"tomato, 282
Sot1fflee, omelette, 479
Soup, amber consomme, 7
"arrowroot, 11
"asparagus, 25
"bean, black, 31
""lima and tomatoes, 39
""red, 32
"•' turtle, 31
""white, 33
"beef am1 okra, 17
"bisque of clams, 37
"""lobster, 36
""tomato, 30
"blending for, 245
"bouillon, fait en I heure, 8
"" gilt-edged, 3
"broth, hasty, 8
""made in I hour, 8
"calf's head, 13
"chicken consomme, 8
» "gumbo, 23
•« " "file, 21
*' clearing, 6
"coloring, 6, 245
*' consomme, I
"" amber, 7
""dore, 7
«• "with macaroni, 9
'« "aux ceufs poches, 10
""with poached eggs,
10
'« " a la royale, 8
«« "de volaille, 8
"crab gumbo No. I., 23
"" " No. II., 39
"Crecy No. I., 26
"No. II., 26
"creme de riz, 28
"croflte-au-pot, 12
"economical, 16
•« *' maigre, 34
"farina, 12
"fish, 39
"General Directions for, I
'• giblet, 21
"green-pea, 27
"with Italian pastes, It
"Julienne, 12
"lentil, 32


598
INDEX.
Soup, lettuce, 17
"lobster bisque, 30
'• macaroni, 37
"maigre, 35 .
"econom1cal, 34
•« "savory, 38
«• "summer, 34
""white, 34
"milk, 28
"mock-turtle No. I., 14
« "No. II., 15
"mulligatawny, 20
"noodle, French, 10
•« "German, 9
•• "Swedish, 10
"Normandy, 18
"okra gumbo, 22
onion No. I., 28
•« "No. II., 29
•• "No. III., 29
"ox-tail, 20
"oyster, 38
•• "gumbo, 23
"Parmentier, 27
"pease, 31
"potato, 27
"pot-au-feu, 5
«' red-bean, 32
"alareine No. I., 18
•« "No. II., 19
"rice, 11
""without meat, 27
"Russian, 17
•• sago, 10
"savory, 16
•« "maigre, 38
"Scotch broth, 19
"sorrel, 33
"summer maigre, 34
"tapioca, 9
"tomato bisque, 30
•• « No. I., 23
u "No. II., 30
•• "and lima beans, 39
•• •« "macaroni, 24
•• "with noodles, 24
•• •« "quenelles, 24
"turtle-bean, 31
'« vegetable, 36
•« vermicelli, II
"white, 18
"bean, 33
""maigre, 34
"winter okra, 35
Soupe blanche, 34
•« a la bonne menagere, 10
"aux huitres, 38
"mi lait, 28
Soupe, maigre, 35
"aux ognons, 28
"a l'oseille, 33
"au riz, 11
"a la tortue No. I., 14
"" "No. II., 15
Soups, purees, and soups without
meat, I
Soused shad, 51
Soy, green tomato, 515
Spanish chicken, 181
"cream, 460
"red-pepper sauce, 256
"toast, 481
Spice pudding, 448
Spiced peaches, 519
"vinegar, 521
Spinach a la creme, 303
"au jus, 302
"pie-plant, 303
Sponge, apple, 486
"cake, layer, 398
""No. I., 397
""No. II., 397
"peach, 486
Sprouts, Brussels, 293
Sprue and eggs, 288
Squabs, broiled, 215
"roasted, 214
Squash pie (see pumpkin), 429
"summer, 294
"Turk's head, 204
Stale-bread griddle-cakes, 391
Steak a la Shrewsbury, 103
Steam fish, to, 44
Steel, to remove rust from, 546
Stewed fish en matelote, 45
Stock, fish, 38
Strawberries and cream, frozen, 496
"frozen, 501
"to prepare for table, 488
Strawberry Bavarian cream, 455
"fritters, 478
"ice, 501
"ice-cream, 496
"Saracen, 484
"sauce (pudding), 451
"sherbet, 503
"short-cake, 434
"sweetmeats, 509
"tart, 434
Stray Notes, 532
String-beans, 305
"pickled, 519
"salad of, 328
Stuffing, sage, for geese, 239
Suet dumplings, 392
"paste, 426


INDEX.
599
Suet pudding, 448
Swedish noodle soup, 10
Sweetbreads, Baltimore style, 152
"braised and larded, 147
"broiled, 150
"en casserole, 151
"croquettes of, 151
"curried, 150
"fried, 146
"fritters of, 147
"mayonnaise of, 336
"with mushrooms, 149
"note, 534
"a la poulette, 149
"to prepare, 146
"roasted, 150
"saute, 148
Sweet-herb, dressing for veal, 24O
Sweetmeat omelet, 358
Sweetmeats, blackberry, 509
"cherry, 510
"currant, 510
"grape, 510
"peach, 508
"strawberry, 509
Sweet-pickle, green tomato, 519
Sweet-potato custard pie, 430
dressing for turkey, 240
"pudding, 441
Sweet potatoes, to bake (note), 538
"" baked, 277
"" boiled, 278
"" caramel, 277
"" fried, 277
"" puree, baked, 278
"*' "with tomato
sauce, 279
"" roasted with meat, 278
Syrup, 453
"to check boiling (note), 542
"for griddle-cakes, 453
""preserves, 505
TABLE of Comparative Weights
and Measures, xii.
Tame duck, 203
Tapioca jelly, 473
"soup, 9
"whip, 474
Tarragon, vinegar, 520
Tart, cranberry, 433
"creamed apple, 435
"peach, 433
"pine-apple, 434
"strawberry, 434
Tartare sauce, 261
Tea biscuit, 378
"cakes, cream, 393
«« ««
«« '•
Tea, iced, 524
"to make good, 523
"punch, 526
"Russian, 524
Terrapin, Baltimore, 69
"mock, 159
"Philadelphia, 68
"sauce, 253
Tete de veau, fromage de, 154
• • «. au gratin, 153
"" " "naturel, 153
a la terrapin, 155
aux tomales, 154
Timbale de macaroni, 224
Time-table for game, 174
""meats, 88
""poultry, 174
""vegetables, 264
Tipsy cake, 467
Toad-in-the-hole, 232
Toast, anchovy, 343
"apricot, 485
"Bombay, 343
"cherry, 484
"Queen Elizabeth's, 483
"raspberrj', 485
"Spanish, 481
"water, 530
Tomates, farcies 279
""a l'ecarlate, 280
""aux champignons, 28a
'• "a la reine, 280
"frites a la creme, 279
"macaroni aux, 283
"riz aux, 282
"en souffle, 282
Tomato bisque, 36
"catsup No. I.. 520
""No. II., 521
"and lima bean soup, 39
""macaroni soup, 24
"mayonnaise, 332
"pickle, green, 515
"rice, 282
"salad, 331
"sauce, 255
""with wine, 256
"souffle, 282
"soup No. I., 23
•« •' No. II., 3°
""with noodles, 24
"""quenelles, 24
"soy, green, 515
"sweet-pickle, green, 519
Tomatoes, baked, 279
"a l'ecarlate, 280
"fried with cream, 279
'* and macaroni, 283


INDEX.
603
potatoes, with boiled fish,
266
"a la bourgeoise,
275
"a la Braban-
conne, 271
"cold boiled, 268
"a la Delmonico,
273
"a la diable, 273
""duchesse,
274
"farcied, 272
"a la Francaise,
277 ,
"fricasseed, 274
"a la Hollan-
daise, 275
"a la Julienne,
276
"Lyonnaise, 268
"mashed, 267
'' New Orleans,
270
"a la Parisienne,
276
"Philadelphia,
273
"roast, with meat,
268
"saute, 268
"stewed, 272
red beans, puree of, 306
remarks, 265
rice, boiled, 323
"border, 322
"creole boiled, 323
samp, 309
"fried, 309
to soften water for, 537
sorrel, puree of, 304
spinach, a la creme, 303
"au jus, 302
"pie-plant, 303
sprouts, Brussels, 293
sprue and eggs, 288
squash, summer, 294
"Turk's head, 294
string-beans, 305
sweet potatoes, baked, 277
""boiled, 278
""caramel,
277
""fried, 277
""puree baked,
278
""puree tomato
to sauce, 277
Vegetables, sweet potatoes, roasted
with meat, 278
"Time-Table for, 264
"tomato, rice, 282
""souffle, 282
"tomatoes, baked, 279
"*' fried, 279
""with macaroni,
283
""roasted with
beef, etc., 280
""scalloped, 281
""stewed, 281
""stuffed with
mushrooms,
282
"•« stuffed alareine,
280
""stuffed with to-
mato sauce,280
"turnips,'baked with mut-
ton, 321
""to boil, 320
""browned, 322
""cream sauce for
boiled mutton,
321
""glazed, 321
""au gratin, 322
"""jus, 321
""mashed, 321
"turnip-tops, 304
Veloutee, creme, 460
"sauce, 251
Velvet cakes for tea, 393
"cream, 460
"sauce (pudding), 450
Venison in a chafing dish, 222
"haunch of, No. I., 220
"""No. II., 221
note, 534
"pasty, 222
"saddle of, 220
"steak, broiled No. I., 221
"" "No. II., 221
"stew, 222
Vermicelli soup, II
Vinaigre aromatique, 521
"a l'estragon, 520
"framboise, 527
Vinaigrette, sauce, 258
Vin chaud, 526
Vinegar, pepper, 520
"raspberry, 527
"spiced, 521
"tarragon, 520
Virginia batter-cake, 378
"corn-cakes, 385


6o6
INDEX TO SUPPLEMENTARY RECEIPTS.
SALAD, olive, 553
"Macedoine jellied, 554
"salmon, 54g
"tomatoes stuffed with cel-
ery, 554
"trout, 549
Salade d'olives, 553
"de tomates farcies au celeri, 554
Salmon salad, 549
Salmonettes, casseroles, 554
Sand Tart, German, 559
Sardines devilled, 555
Shell-fish, lobster croquettes, plain,549
"scallops a la Newberg, 550
"shrimps with tomatoes, 555
TOMATES farcies, salade de, 554
"coquilles de,553
a la Creole, 552
Tomatoes, with bloaters, 556
baked, Creole style, 552
Tomatoes, baked in shells, 553
Trout a la Bechamel, 548
broiled, 548
"matelote of, 549
"planked, 548
"salad, 549
Truites a la Bechamel, 54S
"grillees, 548
"I la Tartare, 549
Turkey-leg devilled, 556
VEGETABLES, artichokes and
mushrooms, 5 51
Vegetables, canned corn, fritters of.? 53
"jellied Macedoine of, 554
"potatoes au gratin, 553
"tomatoes with bloaters, 5=6
"baked Creole style,
552
'• ""in shells, 553
INDEX TO CHAFING-DISH RECEIPTS.
CHICKEN, cream of, 566
"with artichokes, 507
Chicken, with green peas, 567
""Macedoine of vegeta-
bles, 567
Cream of chicken, 566
""lamb, 567
""turkey, 567
""veal, 567
Creamed lobster, 564
D
UCK and olives, 567
EGGS with anchovy toast, 571
""asparagus tips, 569
Eggs with cheese, 570
«4 friccaseed, 570
"with ham and tomatoes, 569
smoked beef and, 570
"stirred with truffles, 570
"" "tomatoes, 569
L
AMB, cream of, 567
MUSHROOMS, stewed, 565
Mutton with jelly sauce, 569
^"^YSTERS, stewed, 5»5
pORK tenderloins, 568
^^UAIL and other small birds, 568
SARDINES with anchovy butter,
564
Soft clams, stewed, 565
Sweetbreads, 56S
'pURKEY, cream of, 567
VEAL, cream of, 567
"minced, 566
Venison with jelly sauce, 568
ELSH RAREBIT, 564
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