BUCKMASTER'S COOKERY.





Inc. A.
BUCKMASTER'S COOKERY:
BEING AN ABRIDGMENT OF SOME OF
THE LECTURES
DELIVERED IN THE COOKERY SCHOOL
AT THE
INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION
FOR 1873 AND 1874 ;
TOGETHER WITH
A COLLECTION OF APPROVED RECIPES
AND MENUS.
"The number of inhabitants which may be supported in any country, upon
its internal produce, depends as much upon the state of the Art of Cookery as
upon that of Agriculture. . . . but if Cookery be of so much importance,
it certainly deserves to be studied with the greatest care.... Cookery and
Agriculture are arts of civilized nations ; savages understand neither of them.” 1
--COUNT RUMFORD.
LONDON:
GEORGE ROUTLEDGE AND SONS,
THE BROADWAY, LUDGATE;
NEW YORK: 416, BROOME STREET.


THE NEW YORK
PUBLIC TITRARY
285935
post (BLIX AND
TIL,' DATIONS.
LONDON :
BRADBURY, AGXEW, & co., PRINTERS, WHITEFRIARS.


PREFACE.
It was with much reluctance that I accepted
in 1873, the invitation of Her Majesty's Com-
missioners of the International Exhibition to
deliver a course of lectures on Cookery. One of
the exhibits that year was Food, and it was
thought this section might be made more in-
structive by lectures. It has long been known
and regretted that the usual course of Female
Education does not include any instruction in
Cookery or other domestic arts; and to this
omission may be traced much discomfort and
difficulty with servants among the middle
classes, and bad health and intemperance
among the poorer working classes. Ladies !
often think it beneath their dignity to know.'
anything about a kitchen, and yet the health
and happiness of every household depend more


Preface.
on Cookery than on any other domestic art.
Refinement and delicacy of feeling may go, and
often do go, with the tenderest of all duties, in
a sick-room; and if ladies can go through the
practice of a medical school, why not the work
of a kitchen ?
No lady is the less a lady if she can add to
her other accomplishments a knowledge of
household management. How many a young
woman, well educated (as the phrase goes), has
commenced life with the happiest and best of
prospects; and after spending the first few
months of her married life in all sorts of blun-
ders and mistakes and unpleasant differences
with her servants, has had to learn, with dear-
bought experience and sorrow, those things
which ought to have been learned before under-
taking the duties and responsibilities of married
life. Much ignorance also exists on the Che-
mistry and Physiology of Food. I have referred
to this subject in two of my lectures, because I
believe a knowledge of what constitutes a good
Food quite as important as properly cooking it.
Good cooking is frequently confounded with


Preface.
vii
expensive cooking ; but the cheap, simple dinner
of a poor family may be made more wholesome
and digestible by careful cooking, which is often
more a matter ‘of trouble than expense. Every
dish, simple as it may be, should be well cooked
and served with its own proper flavour and
individuality. In the purchase of Food, as of
Wine, Dress, Furniture, Carriages, and Jewellery,
every person must be the best judge of what he
can afford. In reading over a recipe, consider
what the materials will cost, and whether the
price will accord with your other arrangements.
My idea of a Cookery Book is, that it should
teach, as far as a book can teach, the theory and
practice of Cookery ; and I begin to see what
a field of national usefulness is open for those
who have the desire and intelligence to cultivate
it. No domestic art requires so much caution,
thought, intelligence, judgment, and taste as
good cooking.] The art must not be judged by
those who practise it, but by what it would be
under the care of educated women. Perfection
is only to be obtained by reflection and prac-
tice, and not by the slavish following of recipes.


viii
Preface.
If Cookery were an exact science, then weights,
quantities, temperatures, and time could be
given ; and until the art becomes more depen-
dent on careful observation and experiment,
much must be left to the judgment of the cook.
There has been progress from our fingers to
steel forks, and from steel forks to silver forks
and spoons ; but there has not been progress in
the same degree in our cooking. In some things
a retrogression has taken place. Except the set
dinner-party, which is often an opportunity for
waste and extravagance, there is no such thing
as regular, comfortable, inviting meals in the
houses of the middle classes. Cookery is not an art
ſto tempt men to gluttony, it is the art of making
every scrap of food yield the greatest amount of
pleasure and nourishment of which it is capable;
and this, as I have so often repeated, does not
depend so much on what you spend as how you
cook. The dinner of the working man may be,
and often is, of odd scraps; but it may be so
cooked as to be tender, savoury, and even turned
into delicate morsels.
I do not profess impossibilities, but every-
It can be made to


Preface.
thing used for food should be as good and as
perfect as possible after its kind. The bacon
dumpling of a labourer should, in its way, be
as perfect in its flavour and digestibility as a
fricassee of chicken. In cooking the simplest
thing, perfection should be the idea, although
that perfection may not be possible.
I have never insisted on soups and stews as
the chief diet of the labouring classes. I have
urged their importance as the only easy method
for obtaining the full nutritive value of all the
materials, because everything in a soup or stew
is eaten, and their food-value will depend on the i
nature of the materials; but whatever their
value, the stomach must have the benefit.
These lectures are an abridgment of some of
those that were delivered, and I have reluctantly
yielded to repeated applications from all parts
of the country to publish them.
Many things will be found in these lectures
which have no direct reference to the subject;
but as my lectures were frequently attended by
the same persons, I was anxious to avoid repeti-
tion, and this often led me to the consideration


Preface.
of analogous questions, when the bare explana-
tion of recipes and processes would have been
tedious and uninteresting.
I now submit this work to the public with the
hope that it may be found useful in awakening
an interest in perfect cooking.
I do not lay claim to much originality. Many
of the recipes were published by the Committee
of the Cookery School'; for others I am indebted
to the works of Gouffe, to Mrs. Harrison, of the
Cookery School, who has revised many of the
recipes, and to other persons. I must also ex-
press my indebtedness to several papers and
periodicals ; and I shall be glad of any addi-
tional recipes or corrections, the result of per-
sonal practice.
St. John's Hill, WANDSWORTH, S.W.,
Nov. 2, 1874.


CONTENTS.
-
LECTURE I.
PAGE
EARLY ENGLISH FOOD AND COOKING.
LECTURE II.
HOUSES OF THE WORKING CLASSES-KITCHENS-OPEN
FIRE GRATES – KITCHENERS — GAS STOVES – KITCHEN
UTENSILS-FIRES AND FUEL
.
.
.
TO
.
10
LECTURE III.
ON STOCK SOUPS AND POT AU FEU .
.
.
. .
20
LECTURE IV.
MISTRESSES AND SERVANTS
LECTURE
HASHES AND STEWS .
.
.
.
.
. . 64
LECTURE VI.
ON THE FUNCTION OF FOOD_FEEDING CHILDREN
THE LIVING BODY CONSIDERED AS A MACHINE .
.
85
LECTURE VII.
AUSTRALIAN MEAT
.
.
.
.
.
.
. . 101
LECTURE VIII.
FRYING
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
. 109


Contents.
PAGE
LECTURE IX.
MELTED BUTTER AND SAUCES . .
.
.
.
. 127
LECTURE X.
.
THE EDUCATION OF GIRLS
.
.
.
.
.
. 143
LECTURE XI.
WHEAT, BREAD, OATS, BARLEY, MACARONI, PEAS, BEANS,
AND LENTILS . . . . . . . . 155
LECTURE XII.
ROASTING, BROILING, BOILING, STEAMING, BAKING,
BRAISING · · · · · · · · · 201
LECTURE XIII.'
FOOD-HUNGER AND THIRST
.
.
.
.
. . 228
LECTURE XIV.
THE COOKERY SCHOOL-FRENCH COOKING-WASTE-
CONCLUSION. . . . . . . . . 267


| BUCKMASTER'S COOKERY.
LECTURE I.
“ Whether ye eat or drink, do all to the glory of God.”
EARLY ENGLISH FOOD AND COOKING.
Man has been described as an animal that makes a
fire, but there must be some civilization before he
can do so; and to manage it for cooking his food
shows great progress in the arts of domestic life. The
history of cooking (which I shall not attempt) is the
history of our manners and our civilization. The food
of monkeys was probably the early food of man. Fruits,
seeds, and roots were ground to pieces by the teeth,
so that the saliva could act upon them and prepare
them for the stomach where they were raised to the tem-
perature necessary for digestion, and afterwards con-
verted into blood to repair the wastes of the body. In
imitation of nature man bruised or ground his food
between stones called querns; with a more advanced
civilization these stones were moved by natural forces-
such as water; and with the paste or dough formed by
mixing the meal with water he prepared an unleavened
cake, which was baked in live ashes or in an oven.
This was probably the earliest kind of cooking.


Buckmaster's Cookery.
The Ancient Britons lived chiefly on coarsely-bruised
barley mixed with milk. Sheep were unknown; meat
was not much used, and was generally eaten raw.
Hares, geese, and fowls were prohibited as food by
the Druids. At this early period of our history there
was nothing which deserved the name of cooking.
With the occupation of the Romans, houses, baths,
roads, bridges, and temples were constructed, and for
three centuries Britain was the centre of Roman civili-
zation and luxury, which, however, left no permanent
influence on the domestic life of the country they occu-
pied. A Roman banquet was a marvel of gastronomic
genius. Lampreys fattened on human flesh, a pig half
boiled and half roasted, stuffed with small birds, and
so skilfully managed that it was impossible to detect
the line which separated the parts, peacocks' brains
simmered in wine, nightingales' tongues, snail broth,
and parrots with onion sauce, were favourite dishes.
"Old Lucullus, they say,
Forty cooks had each day,
And Vitellius's meals cost a million."
Cooking in its purest and best sense is not a device to
make men eat more than is good for them. This is
the abuse of an art which has its origin in the necessi-
ties of man. In his lowest civilized condition he
must either cook his food or perish; his wants stimu-
late his faculties—he must do something to live, and it
is this constant conflict with adverse circumstances
that develops his intellect and gives him a power over
nature. He soon learns that cooking makes his food
more palatable and more digestible.,


Early English Food and Cooking:
3
With the mission of S. Augustine a great change took
place. The art of Agriculture, the earliest of civilized
arts, was cultivated with attention. Wheat, barley,
and rye were sown in the spring. Ploughs, harrows,
rakes, sickles, and flails for thrashing soon were
invented, and continued in use till within the last
half century with little change or improvement. The
chief meat of the Anglo-Saxon was pork, and the
swineherd was a necessary servant in every home-
stead. In autumn he used to drive the pigs into the
woods and forests (which were very large and
numerous) to fatten on roots, sweet chestnuts, beech-
nuts, and acorns. Fish, fowls, venison, cabbages, eggs,
and salted porpoises were also eaten. The cooking of
the Anglo-Saxon was an improvement on that of the
Ancient Briton; he had also a greater variety of food;
and boiling and making broth or soups was a popular
kind of cooking, although baking and roasting were
sometimes practised. The chief cooking utensil was an
earthenware pot or pipkin which would stand the fire,
and into this pot were put herbs and such vegetables
as they could obtain, with bones and pieces of meat;
these were simmered over the ashes of a wood fire,
and in this way they prepared a stew or soup analogous
to hotchpotch, or the pot au feu of the French.
Mud huts, with dirt floors and a fire in the centre, were
often the residence of Saxon kings. In the halls of
the nobility an oak board was placed on tressels and
removed after meals. On great occasions it was
covered with a cloth richly embroidered. The chief
food of the common people consisted of broth, barley
bread, with milk, butter, eggs, and cheese. Green vege-
B
2


Buckmaster's Cookery.
tables and beans were also used. The wealthy lived
on wheaten bread, game, eels, fowls, pork, venison; and
the servants were called loaf-eaters. 4 Knives were in
general use, but forks were unknown. After dinner
followed the dessert, which consisted chiefly of wine,
honey, and wild fruits. Beer, mead, and mulberry
juice flavoured with spices were their principal drinks,
although French wines were not unknown. Minstrels
entertained the company with vocal and instrumental
music. Eating and drinking often degenerated into
gluttony and drunkenness; and the feast not unfre-
quently terminated in quarrels.
The principal meal of the Anglo-Saxon was dinner,
and this was at eight o'clock in the morning, and
supper at five in the afternoon. In 1109, we find at a
banquet given by one of the nobles that three sorts of
broth, meat roasted and boiled, sturgeon, lobsters, eels,
oysters, plaice, and horseflesh were eaten; and the
bread was made with rye-meal and barley-meal in the
form of cakes marked with a cross, and were eaten hot.
The poorer classes had abundance but no great variety;
and their cooking was chiefly baking in live ashes, or
boiling; but hospitality even among the poorest was
taught and inculcated as a Christian virtue. Every
stranger or wayfarer who presented himself at the door
of an Anglo-Saxon house, was boarded and lodged for
two days without question, except priests, who were
only entertained for one night; if they remained for a
longer period it was evident they were neglecting their
duties. In this rude period of our history the Saxon
woman was a noble example of every virtue-a good
housewife, and the companion and comforter of her
P
lielaida were
called
des


Early English Food and Cooking:
5
husband and children. Her occupations were spin-
ning, weaving, cooking, baking, brewing, and needle-
work; and her embroidery was known on the continent
as “Fine English work."
During the twelfth and thirteenth centuries the office
of cook was one of much distinction and importance.
The old English families of the Cokes or Cooks sprang
from professional cooks, and no one need be ashamed
of the names of Butler, Brewer, or Baker, because they
have their origin in trade. William the Conqueror
bestowed portions of land on his master kitcheners.
Thus we find it stated that “Robert Argyllon holdeth
a piece of land in Addington, in Surrey, by the
service of making one mess in an earthen pot in
the kitchen of our lord the king, on the day of his
coronation, which mess is a kind of plum porridge
or water gruel, with plums stoned into it.” This
dish was served up at the royal table by the lord
of the manor of Addington at the coronation of
George IV., and probably at the coronation of sub-
sequent sovereigns. The kitchens of the aristocracy.
were large, well ventilated, and well furnished with
everything necessary for cooking. In a list of the
utensils of a bishop's kitchen in 1262, we have the
following—“A strong table for chopping and mincing
herbs and vegetables ; pots of brass and copper of
divers sizes for divers uses; trivets, tripods, and axe
for chopping bones; a mortar and pestle, a mover, a
pot-stick for stirring, divers crooks and pot-hooks, two
large cauldrons, a frying-pan, two saucepans, a large
dish (pewter), two large platters (pewter), a vessel for
mixing sauces, a hand-mill for pepper, an instrument


6
Buckmaster's Cookery.
for reducing bread to crumbs.” The monks of St.
Swithin, we find, made a formal complaint to the king
that the abbot had ordered the withdrawal of three out
of the fourteen courses usually served at dinner. Four-
teen courses at dinner show a very advanced cooking.
The clergy, both regular and secular, kept excellent
tables, and were given to hospitality—no one was
turned from the door without a meal. A Venetian
gentleman who visited England in 1500, says “ the
English are great epicures, and by nature very avari-
cious; they indulge in the most delicate fare them-
selves, but give their household broth, coarse bread
and beer, and cold baked meat, which, however, they
allow them in great abundance.” The monks of Canter-
bury, except on special days and seasons set apart by
the church, had seventeen courses daily, besides dessert,
dressed with all sorts of flavours and sauces which
pleased the taste. The entertainments given to the
poor by the nobles and prelates at Christmas, Easter,
and Whitsuntide diffused a taste and desire among all
classes for good living. Men do not proceed from rude
habits of life except by contact with a higher civiliza-
tion.] The barons imitated what they had seen in the
palace, and the humbler classes, so far as they were
a ble, imitated the example of the barons. Then, as
now, only in a more powerful degree, the aristocracy
influenced the life and habits of other classes, but the
rapid development of a moneyocracy has broken the
chain, and I doubt if the food of the agricultural
labourer is so abundant or so well-cooked as it was
in the early part of the reign of Henry VIII., when
almost every peasant had his pig or cow, with plenty
and Hi mic much the abovi vana them
The
the
in


Early English Food and Cooking.
7
of milk, and right of common. Our civilization and
progress in wealth have not done much for us, so
long as we have a single family, for no fault of theirs,
without the means of purchasing food or the know-
ledge necessary to cook it. On special occasions,
about three or four times in the year, the poor, to
the number of hundreds and even thousands, were
invited to partake of the hospitality of the baron;
and when there was no room at the table the hall
was littered with clean straw or rushes, and in spring
and summer was decorated with green boughs and
flowers. With their backs against the wall and a
pewter platter or a wooden trencher on their knees,
the people ate in gratitude and thankfulness their
food. These hospitalities, associated with religion,
and often given from religious motives by religious
bodies, were the civilizing influences of a rude age.
Before the Reformation the people of England were
celebrated for good living, hospitality, and abundance
of food. The roast beef and plum pudding of old
England, which are our standard national dishes, are
as old as the hills.
“For what are your soups and your sauces,
Compared to the beef of old England ?
And, oh! the old English roast beef !”
The Saxon peasant lived on cabbages, fish, cheese,
butter, soup, pork, rye bread and milk; the barons
and ecclesiastics on roast beef, venison, game, fish,
soups of the most varied kind, and meat bathed in
delicious sauces, and wines. In the early part of the
sixteenth century English cooking was the best


Buckmaster's Cookery.
cooking in the world. With the Reformation a great
change took place in the domestic life of the people.
Vegetables, soups, and fish, which for two days in the
week had been their chief food, were regarded as a
popish custom; and the making of soup and the
cooking of fish gradually fell into disuse. We know,
however, that
"The monks of Chertsey made good broth
On Fridays when they fasted.”
Large establishments were broken up; cooks opened
inns and hotels; the art of cooking gradually declined;
and in the reign of James II. it had fallen to its lowest
depth. It revived again in the reign of Anne, and in
the time of George I. Since that time it has gradually
, declined, but while the fire on the domestic hearth
! still flickers, we hope to enlist, in these efforts to pro-
mote good cookery, the best sympathies of thoughtful
Englishwomen. In the reign of Louis XV. French
cooking attained perfection under the cordon bleus.
But English cooking is capable of a far greater develop-
ment than French cooking, because we have a greater
variety and better food, and we are fortunate in this
school in having a greater patron that Louis XV.
What is now called cooking in the houses of the
humbler middle and the working classes, is little better
than that of the Ancient Britons. In many of our
public restaurants, hotels, and railway stations the
greasy messes served up as soups, the stuff called
coffee, the oxidised pieces of cold meat under yellow
gauze, the pyramids of sausage rolls, the skin and
gristle between slices of bread and mustard called


Early English Food and Cooking:
0
sandwiches, and the wedges of pork pies, are sufficient
to indicate the paucity of our resources and the bar-
barous condition to which we have fallen. We hope
by this school of cookery to awaken an interest in
good cooking. We can teach you how to make your
food wholesome, palatable, and digestible. How much
misery, and indigestion, and bad temper, arise from
bad cooking! There is no civilized art so well calcu-
lated, however, to quicken the best faculties of a
woman.) Cooking in its perfection becomes an expe-
rimental science, an intellectual exercise of the highest
order; and if cooking had ever been studied as a
science and practised as an art, if it had ever been
taught as a necessary part of a woman's education, it
would never have fallen to its present condition, nor
would we have, as is now too often the case, a girl
incapable of cooking a potatoe, or boiling an egg,
engaged as a cook. In a disputed will case, one of
the witnesses kept saying he knew the testator was a
man of sound mind, and that he led a godly and pious
life. The judge asked, “What do you mean by a man
leading a godly and pious life?” “Please your lord-
ship, he spent most of his time and money in teaching
the poor to make cheap soup." It would be a good
thing for all who lead, or who think they lead a godly
and pious life, if they were able “by precept and by
example," to teach the poor how properly to perform
the common duties of life.


LECTURE II.
“ Fools who sow farthings and expect to reap guineas."
“ The greatest good of the greatest number is a measure of
Right and Wrong."
HOUSES OF THE WORKING CLASSES-KITCHENS
-OPEN FIRE GRATES - KITCHENERS — GAS
STOVES - KITCHEN UTENSILS – FIRES AND
FUEL.
It is very important that every family in every
condition of life should possess the means of comfort
and of health ; a sufficiency of plain wholesome food
and neatness of dress; and the man who has these
blessings is not a poor man. There can be no such
a thing as contented or happy hunger. A clean com-
fortable home, a few wild flowers on the table, and
wholesome well-cooked food, are great helps to happi-
ness and moral progress. But among a badly fed and
badly housed people there will always be a craving
for gin and beer and tobacco, and a low condition of
morality. A family living in a dismal house, in a
wretched alley, upon which the sun never shines-
open, perhaps, to the rain and snow— breathe the
stinking air of a crowded court or back-yard ; and
strive to satisfy their hunger two or three times a day
on unsavoury and badly cooked food. Alas! the


Houses for the Working Classes.
11
father of such a family, and perhaps the mother, too
often find their way to the nearest public-house, and
there obtain a temporary forgetfulness of their misery.
Beer and tobacco take the place of wholesome food.
But I know how difficult it is to cook or do anything
with the grates and appliances usually found in the
houses of the poor. Their only resources are a dirty
frying-pan during the week; and sage and onions and
a baker's oven on Sunday.
Houses for the working classes have generally been
built by speculating builders, who take land at heavy
ground-rents, and crowd together on the smallest
area the largest number of houses. These are generally
mortgaged before they are finished, and to meet the
interest of money the builders must exact high rents,
and if these fail the speculators pass through the
chrysalis condition of bankruptcy, and come out with
larger ideas on bricks and mortar and “beautiful for
ever.” We live in an age of lath and plaster and stucco.
Make your houses look grand outside; crowd into
every room a family at three shillings a week; try
and escape all rates or compound for them at 50 per
cent. below other persons; cover the scamping brick-
work with plaster and whitewash ; and sell as quickly
as possible to somebody who wants houses either
for occupation or investment: and this is called an
enterprising policy. I cannot find language strong
enough to express my disgust and contempt for men
who try to make 20 per cent. out of dwellings for
the labouring classes; men who have made the out-
skirts of this metropolis as ugly as possible; who have
chopped down thousands of trees without ever planting


12
Buckmaster's Cookery.
-
-
=
=
=
one; who have run up dreary rows of houses with
narrow streets, and at every corner erected a beer-
shop, which rapidly develops into a public-house ;
such enterprisers are among the worst enemies of the
working classes. No one can ever reproach me with
any affection for these men ; they are not my affinity;
and I have denounced them over and over again in
the parish vestry, which is chiefly made up of enter-
prisers and publicans, until they all hate me. With
improved dwellings for the working classes, such
as I see on the Shaftesbury estate, I hope we
shall have improved arrangements for warming and
cooking, with plenty of pure air and water. Science
has not yet produced a good economic fireplace suit-
able for the homes of the working classes. You do
not want a large kitchen or large range; the French
cook in a very small space; but you do want a fireplace
which costs more than 75. 6d., at which a woman can
cook without being suffocated with smoke, or the grate
falling into the room. One of the greatest comforts
in a house is a good well-ventilated and well-lighted
kitchen, with a good range and a good-tempered
cook.
Kitchens in large towns are mostly underground,
next door to the coal-cellar. Kitchens, if possible,
should be on the same level with the dining-room
and well lighted from the roof, or so lighted that the
light falls full on the surface of the saucepans and
stewpans. Cooks now have to work half their time
by gaslight, which is always a disadvantage; and where
the gas is not convenient, a lucifer match or a piece
of lighted paper or a candle is used to see how things
Rette in the raust


Gas Stoves and Kitcheners.
13
are progressing; and the ashes and drops of tallow
not unfrequently fall into the saucepan. In the con-
struction of a house architects think too little of the
arrangements of the kitchen ; but it would be much
better if they would occasionally consult the opinion
of a cook. In this school most of our cooking has been
done by gas; and I am often asked, What would you
recommend ? It is not my business to recommend
anything. We have the old-fashioned open range, the
dosed rangra or kitchener, of which there are several
varieties, gas stories and charwal stores.
Gas Stores are very cleanly and are always ready
for use; ladies can cook at them without incon-
venience; and when no open fire is required they are
a great comfort ; they should always be fitted up,
however, with a layer of white tiles round the edges.
But if a constant fire is required gas becomes costly,
especially where it is used for heating a regular supply
of water. On the whole, a gas stove is not desirable
as the only apparatus for cooking in moderate sized
families.
Open Fire Ranges are more suited to English habits;
we like to see the fire and we must roast our meat.
A more thorough ventilation is obtained with an open
range, which, moreover, is more healthy than a gas
stove ; and if you supplement the open range with a
gas stove or charcoal stove, then you have all that is
necessary.
Kitcheners or Closed Ranges are, perhaps, the most
convenient for middle class houses, because they are
adapted to a greater variety of work and are safe
against downfalls of soot, and the saucepans an:


14
Buckmaster's Cookery.
stewpans are not blackened with smoke. The hot-
plate top is a great advantage, but a closed range
makes the kitchen very hot, and if anything boils over
there is not sufficient ventilation to carry off the
smell which finds its way all over the house. The
kitcheners are rather complicated in their construc-
tion, and therefore require more intelligence in their
management. Some are of opinion that roasting can
be done quite as well in the roaster of a kitchener
as before an open fire, but I believe in constantly
basting meat, which cannot be done conveniently in
an oven.
Utensils.—The following list is very complete, and
I have mentioned many things which are not required
in a small house. Each person must be the best judge
of what he really requires and what he can afford. If
you purchase ever so few things let them be good ; there
is no saving, but rather waste, in buying cheap kitchen
utensils. Cheap knives made of soft iron; a saw
made of tin-plate; imperfectly tinned or enamelled
saucepans ; skewers made of soft wire ; clocks that
won't keep time; scales which give you no idea of
weight; common tin instead of blocked tin-avoid all
such: they have a bad moral influence on the cook,
and if the better articles cost a few shillings more,
make the sacrifice ; you will be amply repaid in the
comfort you have in their use; and with care they
will last a life-time. I should like to see porcelain
saucepans and stewpans more used. When ladies
make cooking fashionable we shall have many elegant
things introduced; for there is no reason why a sauce-
pan should not be beautiful as well as useful; and


List of Utensils.
working with beautiful things will give us beautiful
ideas and associations.
LIST OF UTENSILS.*
A clock . . . . . . . .
Weights and scales
t A thermometer in wire cage to measure up to 500°.
A bain-marie . . . . . . .
Three kitchen knives . . . . . .
One onion knife . . . . . .
A meat cleaver . . . . . . .
A meat saw · · · · · · ·
A box of cutters for patties and pastry.
A box of cutters for vegetables . . . .
A pestle and mortar nine or ten inches in diameter
A tin sugar dredger . . . . . .
A rolling-pin · · · · · ·
Two paste boards . . . . . . .
Eight white basins, various . . . .
Six dishes . . . . . . . .
A set of skewers
Two trussing needles .
A mincing knife. . .
A set of larding needles . . . . .
A purée presser . . .
Two tinned wire sieves . . . . . .
Three horse-hair sieves . . . . .
One tammy sieve . . . . . . .
One colander eight inches in diameter . .
One five inches in diameter. . . . .
Two colanders four and six inches in diameter,
with very fine perforations; these may some-
times be used instead of tammy cloth . .
O Aos
A A A A N
ooOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO ww oth
cocow
owo now woonop ooooooooo
OO N N O
ANNA OO
0
4
0
* Messrs. Benham & Sons, of Wigmore-street, have kindly
affixed the prices to most of these articles, but they are liable
to fluctuation. They are neither the cheapest nor the dearest,
but such as can be recommended.


How to Light a Fire.
17
£ s. d.
Three iron saucepans for vegetables i .. 80
A lemon squeezer . . . . . : 0 2 0
Lighting a fire.-Fuel has now become a very ex-
pensive article in every household, and the proper
management of a fire should be the constant consider-
ation of the cook. To light a fire, begin by placing a
few cinders at the bottom of the grate, then take some
crumpled-up paper, a letter, carpenter's shavings, or
light dry brushwood, then a few dry sticks loosely
across each other, then some of the largest cinders,
then a few pieces of nobbly coal about the size of a
tennis-ball, and finish with a few pieces nicely placed
between the bars. Light the fire in two or three
places at the bottom with a lucifer or lighted paper.
A servant who uses a candle is wasteful and untidy.
When the fire is well lighted place some larger pieces
of coal and cinders at the back, and always put on
the coal either with your hands, for which you may
keep an old glove, or a shovel; never throw them on
from the scuttle. All the small coal, cinders, and
refuse place on the top, and in a few minutes you
will have a good fire; and by a good fire is not meant
a wasteful and extravagant fire, but one suitable for
its purpose. How often are fires allowed to blaze
and waste away when there is nothing to cook, and
then suffered to go nearly out, when wood is used to
make it draw up. A steady uniform fire may by
attention be kept up with less fuel than one con-
stantly stirred and going out. Always make the
best use of the fire when it is burning ; your labour
will be lightened by timely forethought. When a


18
Buckmaster's Cookery.
family sits round the cottage fire in the evening, why
not think about to-morrow's dinner; the same fire will
warm you and prepare your food, and this applies
especially to soups, broths, and stews; these in the
family of a working man cannot be over-estimated.
No fire can burn without a supply of air; if your
cinders and coal are closely packed, the fire will
neither light easily nor burn freely. The heat of the
fire causes a current of air, which mostly passes
through the lower part of the fire, and it is for this
reason that a fire should always be stirred from the
bottom. Remember always (even when you are cook-
ing) to keep your fireplace and every thing about it
clean and tidy, and while the fire is burning up and
the kettle boiling, you can do many little things about
the kitchen. Never be idle, and be not ignorant of
anything in a great or small matter.
If you want a clear fire for the gridiron place a few
cinders at the top, and sprinkle the fire with a little
salt.
Charcoal was once largely manufactured and used
in this country for cooking; and in some of the old
kitchens charcoal is still used; it has the recommenda-
tion of great heat without flame, which is almost im-
possible with coal in an open fire. On the Continent
charcoal is still extensively used for cooking purposes;
and for braises, preserves, and stews there is nothing
better.
Coal for cooking purposes is cheaper than charcoal,
and almost all the cooking operations of a charcoal
stove can now be performed by a carefully regulated
hot-plate or gas-stove, and unless you have good ven-


Economy of Close and open Ranges. 19
tilation, the fumes from burning charcoal are danger-
ous; but where gas cannot be obtained, a charcoal-
stove will be found a very useful addition to the open
range.
The Economy of Close and Open Ranges. This, like
most other things, depends on management. If a cook
were taught, as she ought to be taught, the elementary
principles of heat and the construction of ranges, she
would be able to manage her range more economically.
How often have I seen cooks throw on the fire more
coal when there was already too much. If a closed
range be used, as only an educated scientific cook can
use it, it is economical, when you remember the variety
of work you can do with it. But if a cook does or
will not understand the use of the dampers, and the
fire is frequently and freely stirred, then a kitchener
becomes a furnace, and is much more oppressive than
an open range.
C 2


LECTURE III.
“ Soup makes the soldier."—Napoleon 1.
"You cannot feed soldiers on soups made out of nothing.”
Napoleon III.
ON STOCK SOUPS AND POT AU FEU.
Soup is generally the first thing served at dinner,
and when other dishes are to follow, it should never
be of a heavy, satisfying character; as a rule, our soups
are too rich. But if a soup is to be the only thing, as
is frequently the case with the poorer classes, it should
be of a nourishing character, and when no meat or
meat-stock has been used, it may be improved with
milk or thickened with maccaroni, pea meal, Indian
meal, pearl barley, or oatmeal, and in this way all the
conditions of a cheap wholesome food may be pre-
pared. “The greatest heroes of antiquity," says Sir
John Sinclair, “lived on broth. The liquor in which
mutton or venison was boiled thickened with oatmeal
and flavoured with wild herbs formed the morning
and evening meal in the hall of the Highland
Chief. Soups made without meat or a meat-stock are
called vegetable or meagre soups; they are, however,
generally thickened and improved by the addition of
yolk of egg and milk, called a liason. All meat
soups may be regarded as a decoction in water of
gelatine, ozmazone, and the flavouring of the materials
used in their preparation.


Stock.
STOCK
Stock is the foundation of all meat soups, sauces,
and purées. It is to a cook what oil is to an oil
painter ; it is the life and soul of all domestic cooking,
and has its origin in the French pot au feu.
In preparing stock the object is to extract from
the materials the best broth, and for this purpose we
should have a saucepan or stock-pot of tinned iron;
this is the cheapest and best, because it can be easily
cleaned, and without a clean stock-pot or saucepan
both the flavour and quality of the stock are injured.
In France a glazed earthenware pipkin is commonly
used in small families.
HOW TO PREPARE STOCK.
To make three quarts of good beef stock, put into
a saucepan or stock-pot if Ib. fresh shin of beef, fib.
bones broken into pieces, with 7 pints of clean rain-
water, if you have it. Let the contents come slowly
to the boil, then remove all the scum by requisite
skimming. The addition of a little cold water at in-
tervals will facilitate the rising of the scum by altering
the specific gravity of the water; if the scum be not re-
moved it will partially redissolve and spoil the clearness
and flavour of the stock, and you will have the trouble
of clarifying. After well skimming add the following: -
1 oz. of salt; I onion, weighing 5 oz., with 2 or, at most, 3
cloves stuck in it; 2 leeks, say 5 Oz ; half head of celery
weighing | oz. ; turnip cut into quarters, weighing 5 02 ; carrot
sliced, weighing 5 oz. ; parsnip sliced, weighing I ow; I tea.
spoonful of whole pepper.
The contents must now simmer at 180 to 200 degrees


22
Buckmaster's Cookery.
for four or five hours; then remove the fat by skimming,
which can be used when cold for frying and other pur-
poses.
Take out the meat, vegetables, and bones, and
strain the stock into an earthenware vessel or large
basin, and keep it in a cool place free from dust; a
piece of muslin gauze may be placed over it. Any
remaining fat can be removed in a solid state when the
liquor is cold. Stock soup, broth, or stew should
always be kept in earthenware vessels. The vegetables
should not remain longer in the stock than is neces-
sary to properly cook them, as they afterwards absorb
the flavour. In spring and summer, when vegetables
are young, they cook in less time, but a stock may
be and often is prepared without vegetables.
General Stock.
A stock may also be prepared from previously
cooked meat and bones, but the stock will not
be so good or rich in flavour as when prepared
from fresh meat and bones. We never allow our
children to take bones in their fingers, and after dinner
the servant separates the fat, breaks up the bones,
with any meat, skin, or gristle which has not been
blackened by cooking, and with a few fresh bones we
always have a little fair stock prepared from materials
which many persons give to dogs or throw into the
dust-bin. The idea which must be ever present in
preparing a stock or soup is absolute freedom from fat,
Spare no pains in skimming, and a little kitchen-
paper or blotting-paper laid on the surface will remove
sparks of fat which evade the spoon.


White Stock.
Caramel.
It is sometimes desirable that stock should be of
a bright golden colour, although it is no better on that
account. The point to remember in colouring is not
to alter the flavour of the stock or soup; burnt onions
or carrots should never be used; they impart a dis-
agreeable taste. The only proper colouring substance
is caramel or burnt sugar, which may be prepared as
follows:
Take a clean stewpan or saucepan and put in 1 lb. of
pounded loaf sugar, and constantly stir it over the fire
with a wooden spoon. When the sugar is thoroughly
melted, let it come to the boiling point, and then boil
slowly for fifteen minutes, with occasional stirring.
When the sugar is of a dark-brown colour add 1 quart
of cold water, then boil for twenty minutes on the side
of the fire. Let it cool; then strain it, and keep it in
clean well-stoppered bottles, and it is ready for use.
Caramel should be of a dark-brown colour ; if it
boil too quickly it will become black, and will spoil
the colour and flavour of the broth.
r When you use caramel put it into the soup tureen
just before serving.
White Stock.
This stock is used for white soups. Take three
pounds of knuckle or leg of veal, cut it up and
break the bones; then add a slice of lean ham,
and one pound of gravy beef. The white flesh of
poultry or the fillets of a fowl will be a valuable addi-
tion, although not necessary. Butter the inside of a
three-quart stewpan, slice one onion, and place it at


24
Buckmaster's Cookery.
the bottom on the meat, and bones on it, moisten with
a little water or stock, and simmer for one hour; then
add three pints of water, three small carrots sliced, one
leek, half head of celery, } oz. of salt, six white pepper-
corns, and a small bunch of fine herbs. Skim frequently,
and let the whole simmer for five hours; then strain
through a horsehair sieve into an earthenware vessel,
and the stock is ready for use.
To clarify Soups.
Take the white and clean shell of an egg for every
quari of soup; crush the shell in a mortar, and mix
the shell and white of egg with a 4 pint of cold water.
Whisk the mixture well, and then add about as much
of the boiling soup, still beating up all together. Pour
the mixture to the remainder of the stock in the
saucepan, still stirring briskly till the whole comes to
the boiling point. Remove from the fire, and let the
stock remain ten minutes or till the white of the egg
or albumen separates; then strain carefully, and the
broth is clarified. The albumen and egg-shells en-
tangle the small solid particles floating in the soup. If
care be taken in the preparation of a stock or soup it
will not often require clarifying.
To preserve Broth or Stock.
The first thing is to remove all the fat; then strain
carefully into an earthenware vessel, and keep it in a
cool place; a light gauze may be thrown over it.
In winter the stock will keep three or four days,
but in summer it must be looked at every morning, or
it is liable to ferment, and this can only be prevented
by again boiling.


Liaisons.
25
Purées.
The purée of any vegetable or meat is prepared
by simmering till the substance is sufficiently pulpy
or soft to be passed through a horsehair or tammy
sieve. In the case of meat it is sometimes necessary to
beat in a pestle and mortar after simmering. The sieve
is placed bottom upwards over a dish or tin, and with
a wooden spoon or purée - presser the substance is
worked through, and what passes through is called a
purée. It is sometimes necessary to moisten with a little
liquor, which facilitates the passing of the purée. The
purée of any vegetable stirred into a clear beef stock
makes a soup and gives it its characteristic name.
The use of Butter for Soups.
Butter required for soups should be added at two
different times, except in preparing a Julienne soup.
The first butter goes to fry the vegetables and adds
little or nothing to the flavour. But, just before serving,
two or three small pieces of butter in the tureen are a
very acceptable addition ; the butter should only be
melted, for if boiled it loses its flavour and freshness.
The addition of cold butter to soups and sauces is
sometimes called a liaison of butter. A less quantity
of butter is required for sweating vegetables than for
frying or browning them.
Liaisons.
1. Liaisons are methods for thickening soups. One
liaison is prepared by mixing flour with water, or milk,
or broth. Mix the flour smooth with one of the above
liquids, strain through a pointed strainer into the soup,
continually stirring with the other hand. The proper


26
Buckmaster's Cookery.
way to mix a liaison is to add some of the soup to it,
thoroughly mix, and then add all to the soup.
2. Take the yolk or yolks only of eggs, say the yolk
of one egg for one pint of soup; separate the white
or albumen from the yolk by pouring backwards and
forwards, put the yolks into a basin, beat up with a
little powdered loaf sugar (if none has been used with
the soup), a small piece of butter, add a quarter pint
of cream or half a pint of milk for each yolk; when
thoroughly mixed, add a little soup and stir; remove
your soup from the fire, and then stir in the liaison
with wooden spoon. But never allow your soups to go
on the fire after adding the liaison.
A Bouquet garni.
P A faggot of herbs, is constantly referred to in
cooking, and is a mixture of parsley, thyme, and bay-
leaf, and sometimes marjoram, rosemary, and a clove
of garlic; these are tied into a bunch, and are used
for seasoning. Wash the parsley, and arrange the
other herbs so that they are enclosed within the
parsley. The ends of the parsley should be folded
over to more effectually enclose the herbs, and then
tied round with string. A small handful of parsley,
weighing say one ounce, one-sixteenth in weight of
thyme, the same weight of bay-leaves, the same weight
of marjoram, and, if used, one clove only of garlic,
constitute an ordinary bouquet garni, or faggot of herbs.
For a small bouquet garni use half the quantity; for a
large, double the quantity.
Dried herbs.
These should always be to hand, and are best


General Instructions.
27
prepared in the following way: Gather the herbs
just before flowering, and dry them quickly in an
oven or before a screen, and pick out all the stalks.
Gouffe recommends the following preparations :-
quarter ounce of thyme, one-eighth ounce of mar-
joram, quarter ounce of bay-leaf, one-eighth ounce of
rosemary. These are to be pounded in a mortar, with
half ounce of nutmeg, quarter ounce of whole pepper,
half ounce of cloves, one-eighth ounce of cayenne
pepper, and passed through a hair sieve, and kept in a
dry place in a well-stoppered bottle. In these propor-
tions a good seasoning is secured. The proportion for
mixing with salt is one ounce of the mixture with four
ounces of dry salt.
. In addition to the usual flavourings, the following
should be to hand : white vinegar, Tarragon vinegar
(which you can make yourself), vanilla, garlic, orange-
flower water, chillies, mixed pickles, and olive oil.
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS.
I have been advised to mention the ingredients at the
head of every recipe, but I have not thought it desirable
to give either the price or the time required for cook-
ing, because these must vary with circumstances; nor
have I thought it necessary to give such ingredients as
bread, water, pepper, salt, butter, flour, sugar, and such
things as are to hand in every kitchen. Before cook-
ing, arrange all your things as nearly as possible in
order; no time is lost with this preliminary arrange-
ment, it saves a good many steps; and as soon as you
have finished with an article put it out of your way;
this will save overcrowding, or perhaps in the middle


28
Buckmaster's Cookery.
of your cooking you will have to leave off to make room
for your work. I have referred to the proper manage-
ment of a fire in Lecture II. Wash your hands, clean
your nails, and read over slowly and thoughtfully the
recipe. If you cannot understand it in all its details,
perhaps it will be better to substitute one which you
do understand. [No two cooks work exactly to the
same recipe, nor is it desirable with persons who
think about what they are doing. There are some
recipes more difficult than a proposition in Euclid;
and, as a rule, I do not advise resorting to recipes in
which the cook feels doubtful. Rain water is best for
all cooking purposes—but it will sometimes be neces-
sary to filter it. About half a pint of soup may be calcu-
lated for each person. Thick glutinous soups and sauces
require constant stirring, and always use wooden spoons.
A small teaspoonful of powdered loaf-sugаr may be
added to all vegetable soups, and green vegetables.
Good oil may often be used instead of butter, or with
butter, especially with lentils, beans, and peas. In the
use of butter or dripping remember a less quantity is re-
quired for sweating than frying or browning vegetables.
In seasoning, be careful with vegetables, herbs and
spices remarkable for strong flavours.
Chervil, Tarragon and garlic, must be used with cau-
tion. Strain your soups twice if necessary, and avoid as
| much as possible the use of ground pepper. Salt,
when meat is being cooked, is best added towards the
| end, as its tendency is to harden the meat. Consider
whether the things you propose to cook are in season,
and readily obtained; so arrange your work that you
have everything ready when it is wanted. Let every-


Pot au feu.
29
thing be done at its proper time, and nothing wasted;
keep everything in its place and use everything
properly. A convenient time should be selected for
trying new recipes, but not when there is a dinner
party. Let us begin with the Pot au Feu.
This is both an economical and wholesome dish,
and is well suited either to a large or small family. Beef
broth is the best of broth for all cooking purposes, and
no trouble must be spared in preparing it. We com-
menced in this school with the pot au feu ; it is the
standard dish of all classes in France; and the origin
of beef stock. As a rule, you cannot prepare a more
wholesome or hearty kind of food than by soups
and stews; it is the only kind of cooking by which
you obtain the full value of all your materials, and it
is not only the most wholesome, but it is the cheapest
and most profitable form by which food can be pre-
pared for working people. What a blessing if the
labouring poor only knew how to turn little scraps of
meat and vegetables into good food by making soups
and stews. A French peasant would live comfortably
on what English people throw into the gutter.
POT AU FEU AND BOUILLI.
Ingredients.
Beef. Leek. Parsnips.
Bones.
Carrots. Turnips.
Onions. Celery. Bouquet garni.
Take a piece of fresh beef, weighing 6 lbs., and
about a pound of bones; tie up the meat neatly with
string or tape, and put all into a six-quart saucepan;
then fill it up with sufficient rain-water to cover well


30
Buckmaster's Cookery.
fee
the meat and bones, and set it over the fire. Remove
carefully the scum which will rise as the water warms;
do not allow it to boil. Add at intervals cold water
in small quantities; this will have the effect of check-
ing the ebullition, and will help the scum to rise.
When the scum is all removed, put in about an ounce
of salt, a teaspoonful of whole pepper and allspice, one
onion stuck with three cloves, one leek, and three
carrots of average size, cut in two-inch lengths, two
turnips of average size, each cut in four, and a
bouquet garni. The above vegetables should not be put
in all at once, but at short intervals, so as to keep the
contents at the same temperature, which may now
be skimmed for the last time, and placed by the
side of the fire to simmer gently for three or four hours.
According to the season, all or some of the follow-
ing vegetables may be added : a small head of celery,
cut in two-inch lengths, and a couple of parsnips.
At the time of serving, strain the broth, and skim off all
the fat; then add a small teaspoonful of pounded loaf-
sugar. Make the broth boiling hot, and pour it into
the soup tureen over small slices of toasted bread,
adding, according to taste, a portion of the vegetables
cut into thin slices. Remove the string or tape, serve
the meat, and garnish with mashed potatoes, spinach,
or other vegetables in season. Pepper and salt should
be carefully used, they can be added to suit the taste
after the soup is ready.
Precautions.-Remove all the scum and fat; fresh
vegetables, and not to boil.


Soups.
31
GREEN PEA SOUP.
Ingredients.
Green Peas. Lettuce. Onion.
Spinach. Stock. Mint.
Take a peck of peas. When shelled this will give
you about a quart, but, whatever the quantity, divide
into two equal parts, then shred finely one lettuce, one
onion, or a dozen spring onions, and, if convenient,
twelve leaves of spinach. Take a clean three-quart
stewpan or saucepan, and melt two ounces of butter;
add your vegetables and one part of the peas, a sprig
of mint, and a small teaspoonful of salt, and a gill of
stock; let these stew gently in the vapour of the butter
with constant stirring till the vegetables are suffi-
ciently soft to pulp or pass through a sieve. Place
your sieve bottom upwards over a dish, pass the
vegetables through a sieve by gently working with
a wooden spoon; by this process all the tough,
stringy parts of the vegetables will be separated.
Add the pulp (that which has passed through the
sieve) to two quarts of clear stock, a teaspoonful
of whole pepper, a teaspoonful of pounded loaf-sugar,
and a little more salt, if necessary. Bring it to the
boil, skim, if necessary, and put it aside to simmer.
This part is now ready. Take the remaining part of
the peas and turn them into a saucepan of boiling
water, with plenty of salt, and a small lump (size of
a nut) of loaf-sugar; let them boil gently till done.
Drain them through a colander and add to the soup,
then serve with sippets of bread. Some cooks add
a little chopped mint. The spinach gives a greener
colour to the soup.


32
Buckmaster's Cookery.
Precautions.-Fresh shelled peas, sweet butter, clean
stewpans, good stock, constant stirring of the vege-
tables while stewing in the butter to prevent burning,
are essential.
GREEN PEA PURÉE SOUP.
Ingredients.
Green Peas. Onion. Carrot. Stock.
1. Take a three-quart stewpan and boil three pints of
green peas in plenty of salt and water, with one carrot
and one onion. When the peas are sufficiently soft take
out the carrot and onion; drain through a colander,
and pass the peas through a tammy sieve ; return the
purée to the stewpan, and add two quarts of stock, a
small teaspoonful of pounded loaf-sugar, and stir till
it just comes to the boil. Stand it aside to simmer.
WITH RICE.
2. Boil four ounces of rice (see recipe for boiling
rice); when done, put into a soup tureen; skim the soup,
put half an ounce of sweet butter into the tureen, pour
over the soup and stir till it is thoroughly melted, and
serve. If the colour is too pale a few leaves of spinach
passed through a fine sieve may be added. The rice
for this soup is all the better if boiled with a little butter.
Precautions.—It is important to have fresh peas,
and constant stirring till it comes to the boil.
GREEN PEA SOUP WITHOUT STOCK.
Ingredients.
Green Peas.
Proceed in precisely the same way as in the pre-
ceding recipe, using the water in which the peas have
been boiled instead of stock.


Soups.
33
Precautions.—Be sure to have fresh shelled peas, a
clean stewpan, and carefully-boiled rice.
LENTIL SOUP (1).
Ingredients.
Small lentils. Carrot. Onion.
Bouquet garni. Celery. Stock.
Purchase three pints of lentils à la reine. There
are two kinds—the small (à la reine) and the larger
variety. The small are the better for making into a
purée. Wash the lentils in two waters; then put them
into a clean four-quart stewpan, and add three quarts
of water (clean rain water if you have it) a bouquet garni,
one onion, size of tennis ball, with two cloves stuck
in it, two or three leaves of celery, one carrot lb.
Bring to the boil, skim if necessary, and let them
simmer till the lentils are soft. Remove the bouquet
garni, the onion, and carrot. Drain through a colander.
Pound the lentils in a mortar and pass them through
a sieve. Return the purée to the stewpan with two
quarts of stock, continually stirring till it comes to the
boil. Let it simmer for one hour with the lid only
partly over. Cut up a small bunch of green celery
leaves; boil them in water, or better, in a little stock;
drain them through a colander, season, skim the soup;
put the celery into the soup tureen, pour the soup
over, and serve.
Precautions.—Have good lentils, and good stock;
stirring to prevent burning, and not too much celery,
or carrot.


Buckmaster's Cookery.
LENTIL SOUP (2).
Ingredients.
Yellow lentils. Carrot. Onion. Celery. .
Take a pint of yellow lentils, wash them in luke-
warm-water--the bad ones float-put them in a
stewpan with three pints of water, a small onion,
one ounce, a sprig of celery, a quarter of an ounce,
half a small carrot, one ounce, and a quarter of an
ounce of salt. Boil: then allow the whole to simmer
till the lentils are cooked (which you can ascertain by
pressing one between the fingers, when it should bruise
easily). To accelerate the cooking, pour in every half-
hour a quarter of a tumbler of cold water, starting the
boiling again after adding the cold water. (It was
formerly usual to soak dry vegetables for purées for
twenty-four hours, but the addition of cold water whilst
boiling often renders this operation unnecessary.)
The lentils being well done, drain them in a colander;
reserve the liquor. Pass the lentils through a wire
sieve on to a dish placed underneath to receive the
purée. Moisten now and then, if necessary, with some
of the liquor to facilitate the passing of the purée. When
done, put the purée in a stewpan and add as much of
the liquor as is required for the soup. Boil and sim-
mer for half an hour, stirring with a wooden spoon.
Put half an ounce of sliced bread in the soup tureen,
and add half an ounce of fresh butter. Pour in the
soup, stirring to melt the butter.
Precautions.-Be careful in selection of lentils, and
see they are well cooked before making the purée.


Soups.
LENTIL SOUP (3).
Ingredients.
Lentils.
Onion.
Salad oil.
Bouquet garni. Rice.
Spinach.
Take a three-quart saucepan and put into it two
quarts of warm water, half a pint of lentils, one onion
with two cloves stuck into it, a bouquet garni, and a
gill of good salad oil, or two ounces of butter. Let
them come to the boil, and simmer for two hours,
add two ounces of rice or pearl barley, and a pound
of spinach blanched and chopped up. Let these boil
together till well cooked, season before serving with
pepper and salt.
Precautions.— This soup is thick, and requires almost
constant stirring. It is very nourishing.
HARICOT BEAN SOUP.
Ingredients.
Haricot beans. Bacon. Onions.
Boil a pint of haricot beans; when half done, strain
off the water and set them on with fresh boiling water,
but in a smaller quantity; add one onion stuck with
two cloves, a piece of bacon, weighing half a pound;
add black pepper and salt to taste. Let the whole
boil till the beans and bacon are cooked.
Precautions.-Have good beans and bacon, not too
salt.
D 2


Soups.
37
SCOTCH BROTH.
Ingredients.
Neck of Mutton. Onions. Leeks. Parsley.
Scotch barley. Turnips. Carrots.
Take a neck of mutton, and trim it as for cutlets, re-
move eight of the chops and put them aside on a dish.
Put the remaining part of the neck into a three-quart
saucepan with two quarts of cold water, with a little
pepper and salt, and two onions, one with two cloves.
When the water comes to the boil skim, add altogether
half a pint of the following vegetables, made up of
about equal quantities, carrots, turnips, leeks, and
onions, cut up into quarter inch dice. Simmer for
three hours. Blanch two ounces of Scotch barley,
and finish cooking it in water with a little butter and
salt. Put the chops into another stewpan, with some
of the broth or stock, and nicely cook them. Drain
the barley, and put it into the tureen with the chops.
Remove the neck of mutton on to a dish, pour over it
the broth, add a dessertspoonful of coarsely chopped
parsley previously blanched, and serve.
Precautions.—Do not boil after adding the vege-
tables.
MUTTON BROTH.
Ingredients.
Scrag of mutton. Scotch barley. Turnip.
Parsley.
Onion.
Take two pounds of scrag of mutton, and put it
into a large basin, cover with cold water and a little
salt to remove the blood, let it remain one hour.
Then put it into a stewpan, with two quarts of water,
with either one ounce of Scotch barley or rice or


38
Buckmaster's Cookery.
oatmeal according to taste, and one onion. Let it
come to the boil slowly, skim, and add two or three
turnips cut into quarters. Let the contents simmer
for two hours. A little chopped parsley or petals of
marigolds are sometimes added; season with salt,
strain into the tureen, and serve. For sick persons
this broth should be prepared without any vegetable
flavour, and should be carefully freed from fat.
Precautions.—This broth should be prepared slowly,
and not too strong with turnip.
BRABANT BROTH.
Ingredients.
White stock. Spinach. Sorrel.
Put two quarts of good white stock into a clean
three-quart saucepan, a handful of coarsely shredded
spinach and a few leaves of sorrel, let these stew in
the stock till tender, with a little pepper and salt and
a small teaspoonful of sugar. . Take a pint of cream
or milk and beat it up with the yolks of four eggs, and
just before serving mix the liaison with the soup.
Precautions.—Be careful with the sorrel, the acid
flavour is sometimes objectionable.
JULIENNE SOUP (1).
Ingredients.
Carrots. Turnips. Onion. Leeks.
Celery. Chervil. Sorrel.
Take carrots (three ounces), turnips (three ounces),
onion (one ounce), leeks (one ounce), celery (half
ounce)-shred in small strips about one and a
quarter inches long, melt one ounce and a half
of good butter in a stewpan, and add the shredded


Soups.
39
vegetables; fry to a nice brown colour, add three
pints and a half of stock, and leave it to boil at
one corner of the fire. When the vegetables are
cooked, skim, put in a few leaves of sorrel, and a sprig
of chervil, chopped finely, add a little powdered loaf-
sugar, and serve in a soup tureen after having put in
several crusts of bread cut up in small pieces.
Precautions.—Wash and dry the vegetables before
shredding
JULIENNE SOUP (2).
Ingredients.
Carrots. . Turnips.
Onions.
Leeks.
Sorrel.
Celery.
Chervil.
This soup can be made all the year except in the
months of January, February, and March, when the
vegetables are too stringy to make a good Julienne.
Shred into small fillets one carrot, one turnip, one onion,
a leek, and half head of celery, mince a little sorrel and
chervil, and put these on a plate by themselves ; melt
an ounce and half of butter in a saucepan or stewpan,
then add the shredded vegetables to stew in the butter
till they are of a nice golden colour. Then add two
pints of stock and leave it to boil ; when the vegetables
are cooked, skim the contents to remove any fat. A
Julienne soup should be clear and transparent. When
skimmed, add the minced sorrel and chervil and a
little pounded loaf-sugar, and serve with small crusts
of bread.
Precautions. In this soup, use only the red portion
of the carrot, and well dry the vegetables before
frying.


40
Buckmaster's Cookery.
SOUP FROM REMNANTS OF JOINTS.
Ingredients.
Bones.
Carrots. Turnips.
Bouquet garni.
Onions,
After all the meat available for a hash has been
cut away from a leg of mutton, break the bones into
pieces, the addition of a pound or two of fresh bones
will be desirable, put them into a three-quart sauce-
pan with two carrots and two turnips cut in quarters,
and two whole orions, and a bouquet garni, Nearly
fill the saucepan with water, add three cloves, a full
tablespoonful of whole pepper and allspice in equal
parts, and salt to taste. Set the saucepan on the fire,
and let the contents simmer for four hours. Strain the
broth, free it from fat, and use it as stock for any kind
of thick soup. Pass through a hair sieve the carrots
and one of the onions ; melt an ounce of butter in a
two-quart saucepan, and stir in a tablespoonful of flour.
When the two are well mixed add a little of the stock,
then the carrot and onion pulp, and gradually the re-
mainder of the stock, or so much as will produce a
purée of the consistency of pea soup. Pour it boiling
hot over small dice of toasted or fried bread.
Precautions.--Take care that the soup is not too
strongly flavoured with the vegetables.
CHANTILLY SOUP.
Ingredients,
Green peas. Parsley. Onions. Cucumber, Mint.
Put into a two-quart stewpan one pint and a half of
green peas, a small bunch of parsley, and a small bunch


Soups.
41
of mint with two finely-shredded onions (two and a half
inches in diameter), and a small cucumber, peeled and
cut into thin slices, add sufficient water to cover the
vegetables, and boil with a teaspoonful of pounded
loaf-sugar till they are soft enough to pass through a
tammy sieve. Strain over a colander and make a purée
of the vegetables. Stir the purée into three or four
pints of stock, but do not boil after adding it or you
will spoil the colour of the soup.
Precautions.-A proper mixture of the vegetables so
as to agreeably blend the flavours.
BONNE FEMME SOUP.
Ingredients.
Lettuce. Onion. Chervil. Cucumber. Sorrel.
Shred finely a small handful of sorrel, four lettuces,
one onion, two and a half inches in diameter, a
sprig of chervil, and one moderate cucumber sliced.
Place the vegetables, except the chervil, in a two-quart
stewpan with one and a half ounces of butter, and a
little flour. Simmer and stir for about ten minutes
over a quiet fire.
Put into a large basin a full tablespoonful of flour,
add three pints of white stock, and thoroughly mix.
The liquor in which a fowl has been boiled, free from
fat, will do quite well; the stock may, however, be
made with beef or mutton, but the soup will not be so
white. Add the soup to the contents of the stewpan,
stir till it comes to the boil, then add a small teaspoon-
ful of loaf-sugar. Skim and stand it aside to simmer
for fifteen minutes. Just before serving add the
chopped chervil, and a milk or cream liaison.
Precautions.-Do not burn, or brown, the vegetables


42
Buckmaster's Cookery.
SOUP MAIGRE,
Ingredients.
Turnip.
Carrot. Celery.
Onion.
Green peas.
Melt slowly in a clean stewpan about one half ounce
of butter; when melted add two onions, a quarter of
a head of celery, a small carrot and turnips, all
coarsely shredded. Let these vegetables stew in the
butter for fifteen or twenty minutes until they are nicely
browned, and stir frequently with a wooden spoon
to prevent burning. Add three pints of boiling water,
and, if at the proper season, three-quarters of a pint
of green peas and six white peppercorns. When
the vegetables are quite tender let the soup stand for
a few minutes to clear, then strain into another stew-
pan. Boil up and add an onion, half head of celery,
a carrot and a turnip cut into fillets, or into wheels
or into stars, with a vegetable cutter. When these
vegetables are sufficiently cooked, the soup is ready.
If necessary, season with pepper and salt.
Precautions.-Cleanliness, tender vegetables, and
good butter are essential. Stir occasionally to prevent
burning
VEGETABLE MARROW SOUP.
Ingredients.
Vegetable marrow. Stock.
Take four young vegetable marrows, about six
inches in length, the green variety is best, pare and
remove the seeds, cut into small pieces of an equal
size, and boil in about three pints of stock. When


Soups.
43
sufficiently soft strain through a sieve into another
stewpan, make the marrows into a purée and return it
to the stock. Boil separately half a pint of cream
and add to the soup, then thoroughly mix and serve.
A milk liaison would be preferable to the cream.
Precautions.—Take care to remove all the seeds.
LEEK SOUP.
Ingredients.
Leeks. French roll. Potatoes.
Trim and wash six leeks, weighing altogether about
six or seven ounces, cut them into pieces an inch long,
and half an inch thick, put a little butter into a stewpan
and cook till they are of a light brown colour ; add
one quart of warm water, a pinch of pepper and salt,
then let them come to the boil and simmer for about
twenty minutes. Cut a French roll into slices a quarter
of an inch thick, divide each into four parts, and put
into the tureen. Prepare a milk liaison, add it to the
soup and then serve. To convert this into a potatoe
and leek soup add, after pepper and salt, a quarter of a
pound of sliced potatoes and let the whole boil gently
till the potatoes are soft enough to make into a purée.
Precautions.-Carefully fry the vegetables.
ONION SOUP.
Ingredients.
Onions.
Take onions, weighing say nine ounces, cut them into
slices and bleach them in boiling water. Take a two-
quart stewpan and melt one ounce and a half of butter,
add the onions and stir till they are of a light brown


Buckmaster's Cookery.
colour, then thicken with a tablespoonful of flour and
stir for two or three minutes. Add three pints of boil-
ing water, and salt and pepper to taste. Stir till it comes
to the boil. Let the contents simmer for five or ten
minutes. Put into the soup tureen a few slices of
dried bread and about one ounce of butter. Pour the
soup gently, stirring all the time to dissolve the butter.
This soup may be improved with a liaison. All
seasoning should be added just before serving.
Precautions.-Be careful to have good onions well
boiled.
SPANISH SOUP.
Ingredients.
Onions. Spinach. Bread raspings.
Lettuce. Celery. Endive.
Bouquet garni.
Thicken two quarts of water in a three-quart stew-
pan with bread raspings. These may be prepared by
baking in an oven odd crusts of bread to a crisp
brown colour. Then reduce to powder and pass
through a sieve and keep in a dry place in a dry
stoppered bottle. Take four or five onions, two inches
in diameter, cut each into six pieces and add them to
the water and bread raspings, with a little pepper and
salt, cover the saucepan closely and boil for an hour
and quarter. Strain the contents into a basin or back
into the saucepan. Shred a quarter head of celery,
one small lettuce, half head of endive, six leaves
of spinach, and a small bunch of sweet herbs; then fry
in butter. Melt an ounce and a half of butter in a three-
quart stewpan, stir in some flour till nicely browned,


Soups.
45
then add the shredded vegetables; in five minutes
add the soup. Boil up till they are tender, skim, and
pour into a soup tureen over fingers of fried bread.
Precautions.—Be careful to dry the vegetables before
frying.
SPANISH ONION SOUP.
Ingredients.
Spanish onion.
Melt in a stewpan one ounce of butter or sweet
dripping, add one large Spanish onion (shredded),
and one and a half ounces of wheat flour or pea flour.
Stir continually for five or ten minutes, then add
three pints of boiling water, a little salt and pepper,
skim, and boil till the onions are thoroughly cooked.
Add a milk or cream liaison, cut up some pieces of
bread and put in the tureen, pour over the soup
and serve.
Precautions.—Avoid hurry or boiling quickly, and
let the onions be well cooked.
ASPARAGUS SOUP.
Ingredients.
Asparagus. Stock.
Take a bundle of fresh green asparagus and remove
all the tender parts and points. Put the points aside
for the soup and plunge the other parts into boiling
water, with a little salt, and let them blanch for three
minutes, then drain through a colander. Take a clean
three-quart stewpan and melt one ounce of butter with
one ounce of flour, add the blanched asparagus and
stir the contents for about five minutes. Then add


Buckmaster's Cookery.
two quarts of good white stock. Simmer till the
asparagus is cooked, strain into another stewpan,
make a purée of the asparagus and return to the
soup and boil steadily for fifteen or twenty minutes;
skim if necessary. Boil the asparagus points in salt
and water. Pour the soup into the tureen and add
the asparagus points.
To make the soup much better, mix in the tureen
two ounces of butter and half a pint of cream, and
well stir when pouring in the soup.
Precautions. The asparagus must not be tough or
stringy.
POOR MAN'S SOUP.
Ingredients.
Potatoes. Onions. Parsley.
Shred three ounces of onions, and put them into a
clean three-quart saucepan, with one ounce of butter
or dripping or skimmings of saucepans, cook to a pale-
brown colour, constantly stirring; now add one ounce
of flour, and cook it for five minutes in the dripping,
add three pints of boiling water and stir till it boils up,
skim, add one pound of potatoes, shredded or cut
into small slices, and boil till they are cooked, add
pepper and salt and a dessertspoonful of chopped
parsley, boil up, and pour into the tureen over half-
inch squares of bread. This soup can be made very
nourishing by using oatmeal or peameal instead of
flour. If too thick, add a little more water. A milk
liaison is a valuable addition to this soup.
Precautions.-See that the fat and onions do not
burn or get too dark a colour.


Soups.
47
CABBAGE AND BACON SOUP.
Ingredients.
Savoys or cabbages. Bouquet garni. Bacon.
Take two or three young summer cabbages or
savoys, remove the outside leaves, wash them in plenty
of salt and water, cut them across into pieces one inch
in length, and remove the hard stalk. Take a pound
of bacon or salt-pork, scrape it clean, and cut it down
to the rind into fillets three-quarters of an inch in
section, but do not cut the rind which is to hold the
meat together, the fillets are easily removed with the
ladle when serving the soup. Place the bacon rind
downwards, in a three-quart saucepan, then a muslin
bag with a teaspoonful of whole pepper, or two
cloves and three allspice, and a bouquet garni, add the
cabbage, cover well with cold water, let it come to
the boil, skim, and let the contents simmer till the
cabbages are well cooked. Towards the end, add
salt if the meat is not very salt. Serve with slices of
bread in the tureen.
Precautions.-Young cabbages and bacon not too
lean, are necessary.
OX-TAIL SOUP (1). E
Ingredients.
Ox-tail
Butter,
Onions,
Bouquet gamni. Carrot. Stock.
Take two ox-tails of average size, cut them up at
the joints, obtain as nearly as possible pieces of the
same bulk. Put them into cold water with a little
salt, and let them remain two hours to remove the
blood. Drain them and dry them in a clean cloth;


48
Buckmaster's Cookery.
put them into a three-quart stewpan with two ounces
of butter, and a few pieces of lean beef, and cook till
nicely browned, add two quarts of stock, one onion
with two cloves stuck in it, and a bouquet garni.
Bring to the boil, and skim and simmer for three or
four hours till the tails are cooked. While the soup
is simmering slice three young carrots, and cook them
with fifteen button onions in a little stock. Take the
pieces of tail from the soup, remove the bones, and
put the meat only into the tureen with the carrots
and strain, over the soup, and serve.
Precautions.—Careful cooking in the butter, and
tender carrots are required.
OX-TAIL SOUP (2).
Ingredients.
Ox-tail. Carrots. Stock.
Onion.
Bouquet garni.
Cut up an ox-tail at the joints, and soak for two
hours in water with a little salt to remove the blood,
then dry the pieces in a clean cloth. Put them into a
stewpan with two ounces of butter, and cook till the
pieces are nicely browned, add a little flour and stir it,
then strain in three pints of stock or water, tie up two
small leeks, parsley, celery, two bay leaves, thyme and
eschalot into a faggot, two carrots, and one onion, with
three cloves, a little pepper, salt, and mace; let the
whole simmer for three or four hours, skim carefully,
strain, and serve.
Precautions.—Careful cooking in the butter, tender
vegetables, and not too strong a flavour, are essential.


Soups.
MULLIGATAWNY SOUP.
Ingredients.
Veal, Carrot. Onions. Turnip.
Ham, Apples. Curry powder.
Take a small knuckle of veal, cut it up, break the
bones, and put it into a stewpan with one half ounce of
butter, a quarter of a pound of lean ham, a small carrot
and turnip, two onions, and four apples, all cut into
quarters ; add half a pint of water. Set the stewpan
over a brisk fire, moving the meat frequently with a
wooden spoon ; let it remain until the bottom of the
stewpan is covered with a brownish glaze, then add
three tablespoonfuls of curry-powder, one of curry paste,
and a quarter of a pound of flour: stir well in, and add
four or five pints of water, a teaspoonful of salt, half
a teaspoonful of sugar; when boiling place it at the
corner of the fire, and let it simmer for two hours and
a half, skimming off all the fat, then pass it through a
tammy into a tureen. Trim some of the pieces of veal
and put them back into the stewpan to boil up, and
add them to the soup, and serve with plain boiled rice,
on a separate dish. Ox-tails, or pieces of rabbit, or
fowl, left from a previous dinner, may be served in it
instead of veal, or the pieces of veal may be prepared
separately, and the soup strained over them in the
tureen.
Precautions. ---Have a good curry powder, and give
constant attention till the water is added.


50
Buckmaster's Cookery.
GIBLET SOUP.
Ingredients.
Giblets. Bouquet garni.
Scald and pick very clean two sets of goose, or four
of duck giblets (the fresher the better), wash them well
in two or three warm waters, cut off the beaks and
split the heads, divide the gizzards and necks into
mouthfuls. If the gizzards are not cut into pieces, the
rest of the meat will be done too much. Crack the bones
of the legs, put them into a stewpan, cover them with
cold water; when they boil take off the scum, then put
in a bundle of herbs, such as lemon thyme, winter
savory, or marjoram, about three sprigs of each, and
double the quantity of parsley. Twenty berries of all-
spice, the same of black pepper ; tie these up in a
muslin bag, and stew very gently till the gizzards are
tender. This will take from an hour and a half to
two hours and a half, according to the size and age of
the giblets. Take them up with a skimmer, put them
into the tureen, and cover down close to keep warm
till the soup is ready. Melt an ounce of butter in a
clean stewpan, stir in a dessert-spoonful of flour; then
pour to it by degrees a gill or half a pint of the giblet
liquor, add the remainder by degrees ; let it boil
about ten minutes, stirring it all the while; skim it
and strain it through a fine sieve into a basin; wash
out the stewpan, then return the soup into it, and
season it with a glass of wine, a little mushroom
catsup, and a little salt; let it have one boil up,


Soups.
51
and then put the giblets in to get hot, and the soup
is ready.
Precautions.—Young giblets and freedom from
scum are essential.
Parsley.
SOUP MAIGRE.
Ingredients.
Green peas. Bouquet garni. Bread raspings.
Sugar.
Lettuce.
Leek.
Celery.
Take a three-quart saucepan, add to two quarts of
water a pint and a half of green peas, a bouquet garni, a
tablespoonful of bread raspings, a very small piece of
mace, pepper and salt, three cloves, and a small tea-
spoonful of pounded loaf-sugar; simmer for two hours;
strain into another stewpan, then add another half-
pint of peas.
Fry lightly in some butter the coarsely shredded
heart of one lettuce, a little chopped parsley, one leek,
half-ounce of celery, add these to the soup, and let
them simmer till cooked. Pour into the tureen, and
serve.
Precautions.— Tender vegetables and careful frying
are essential
VEGETABLE SOUP.
Ingredients.
Onions.
Turnips.
Carrots.
A new roll. Oatmeal. Dried herbs.
Shred three good-sized onions, fry them to a nice
brown colour in an ounce and a half of sweet dripping
or butter, then put them into a saucepan with three
E 2


52
Buckmaster's Cookery..
pints of water. Cut into small slices one large or two
small turnips and the same of carrots, add them to the
onions, with a pinch of dried herbs, pepper and salt.
Boil gently three hours without the lid, then thicken
with a spoonful of flour or oatmeal; boil ten minutes
longer, and serve with pulled bread.
Precautions. — Young turnips and sweet dripping are
necessary, and the onions carefully fried.
Pulled bread. Take a new roll, pull it in half, tear
out the crumb in small pieces with a fork, put them
into the oven until crisp.
POTATO SOUP.
Ingredients.
Onions. Potatoes.
Take two pounds of potatoes, after they are peeled,
and cut them into thin slices, or shred them; shred six
ounces of onions. Take a three-quart saucepan and
melt two ounces of butter or sweet beef dripping; put
in the onions, let them cook five minutes in the butter,
stir occasionally, then add the potatoes and three
pints of water, or milk and water, or skim-milk; when
the potatoes and onions are thoroughly soft, strain
through a horse-hair sieve, return the liquor to the
stewpan, and pass through the vegetables; stir the
purée into the soup, season with pepper and salt.
The addition of a milk or cream liaison is a great
improvement.
Precautions.-Do not blacken the onions; and fre-
quently stir before making the purée.


Soups.
53
FISH SOUP.
Ingredients.
Soles. Celery. Parsley.
Skin and fillet a pair of soles, cut out of the fillets
with a cutter, in pieces the size of a penny. Put the
head bones and all the trimmings into a saucepan,
with one quart of stock, a large handful of parsley, a
piece of celery, one onion stuck with two cloves,
a blade of mace, and pepper and salt to taste.
Let this boil slowly from three to four hours, skim
and strain the liquor, put it on the fire again, and
when it boils put in the cut pieces of sole. When
they are cooked take them out, put them into the
soup tureen with a little chopped parsley (blanched);
then strain the soup into the tureen, and serve.
Precautions.—Do not allow the pieces of fish to
remain in the soup after they are cooked.
VERMICELLI SOUP.
Ingredients.
Vermicelli. Parmesan cheese. Stock.
Take three ounces of vermicelli and bleach for
five minutes in boiling water with a little salt; drain
in a colander, and when cold plunge it into three
pints of boiling stock, skim, and let it simmer gently
for ten minutes, with frequent stirring, and it is ready.
Rice, tapioca, sago, and all macaroni soups are pre-
pared in the same way. When macaroni proper is
used, it should be wiped with a clean cloth, and cut
into one-inch lengths before adding to the boiling
stock. Some boil the vermicelli or macaroni or


Buckmaster's Cookery.
pastes separately in boiling stock or water, drain, and
put into the tureen, and pour over the boiling stock.
Vermicelli and all pastes for soups are varieties of
macaroni, and should be of the best quality. A
plate of grated Parmesan cheese should be served
with these soups.
Precautions.-Be careful not to make the vermicelli
too soft by over boiling.


LECTURE IV.
MISTRESSES AND SERVANTS.
Be ye kind one to another.
He that is slothful in his work is brother to him that is a
great waster.
The false notions which have grown up about work
are at the bottom of much of our social discomfort.
I have often insisted in this school on the dignity of
all necessary labour, and nothing but false pride would
ever make a woman ashamed of being known to work.
There is a perennial blessedness in the faithful per-
formance of household duties. Do you suppose that
any man in his senses thinks less of his wife because
she looks well to the ways of her own household ?
There is no occasion to put yourselves on terms of
equality with your cooks, but a more frequent friendly
intercourse between mistresses and their servants
would help to a better mutual understanding.
A faithful good servant is a household blessing; on
her temper frequently depends your temper; if a cook,
she is the guardian of your health as well as your tem-
per, but a cook who cannot cook, who does not know
or care to know, who has no love of her art, who will
not learn to make the best of everything, is a destroyer
of your happiness, a prodigal waster of your substance,


56
Buckmaster's Cookery.
and the sooner you clear the house of such a nuisance
the better. I have met at morning prayers servants
and mistresses with bad tempers. The religion of life
has to do with the common duties of life ; it is the
habit of thinking and doing good things all the
day long, and of being cheerful and good-natured
to those who serve us; and if kindness on the
part of a mistress fails to obtain kindness in retum,
then the sooner you part the better. But ask your-
self, has there been anything in my conduct, cr
wishes, or language, or treatment towards my servants
unbecoming a lady and a christian ?
Perquisites, I have often spoken against. No inven-
tion of the devil has been a more fruitful source of
dishonesty and of waste, and mostly among servants.
The percentage of the tradesman, the sale of kitchen
grease, which is often good dripping, the skimmings of
saucepans, and fat meat most useful in the kitchen,
ought to be discountenanced in every household. To
sell fat at fourpence per pound and purchase lard at
elevenpence; to purchase egg powders and charge for
eggs, is simply dishonest. Better give your cooks
two or three pounds a year more, and encourage
them to make the best of everything, than allow
perquisites. Well may Mrs. Brown believe that the
race of honest servants, like the Trilobite, is an
extinct species. The maid of all work is a maid of
no work; the cook is extravagant, impudent and
short tempered, the housemaid is an untidy slattern,
and the lady's maid a proud time-serving minx. (If a
mistress when engaging a servant knew how to per-
form the various duties of a house, she would not have


Mistresses and Servants.
so much trouble in obtaining a good servant, and
the only way to learn these duties is to do them.)
The physical exertion would be healthful; the
scrubbing of a room, the use of a pestle and mortar,
the wringing of a blanket, the sweeping of a carpet,
and the making of bread, are the best calisthenic
Jexercises for ladies. The physical effort called forth
in the performance of these duties would be far more
beneficial to health than either tatting or wool-work.
You must not understand by these remarks that I am
speaking against accomplishments in a lady; but of
what value are these accomplishments unless they
teach the elegancies and duties of domestic life. A
knowledge of cooking may go, and has often gone,
with the highest culture, and most delicate refine-
ment. The most elegant and accomplished ladies at
the cookery school are among the best cooks; they
can clean a saucepan or they can prepare a dinner
that would do no discredit to a professional cook. Il
wish this habit was more fashionable among the middle
classes. The modern housewife often thinks it genteel
to affect the most oblivious ignorance of household
work; can you wonder at servants taking advantage
of this ignorance, and speaking despisingly of their
mistresses, as stuck up know-nothings? Now the true
remedy for this state of things is the better education
of all classes in the practical performance of house-
hold work, and the chief duty of every household,
around which all other duties aggregate, is cooking.
I sometimes wonder how many of the young ladies
one meets at places of public amusement, are able to
undertake the duties of managing a house, and yet I


58
Buckmaster's Cookery.
have read somewhere that every lady expects before
she is thirty to undertake these duties. I sometimes
hear them not only acknowledge their ignorance of
all household work, but make a boast of it, as if
nothing would so debase them in the estimation of their
acquaintances, as their ability to make a loaf of bread or
to prepare their husband's dinner. White hands, pretty
faces, large chignons, curiously cut panniers, high-
heeled boots, and an artless ignorance of the practical
work of a house, may appear to a poor deluded soul
of a young man rather interesting, but, alas for the
man who marries such a woman, unless he also marries
the Bank of England! He soon learns that this world
is made up of hard rugged facts and experiences, and
that the most romantic of persons must have some-
thing to eat. To sit and look at a doll will not
satisfy an empty stomach, or make the pot boil, or put
anything into it. The young ladies are not entirely to
blame; their mothers have rather encouraged their
ignorance of domestic management, but happy beyond
description is the young woman, whatever her rank or
station in life, who has been early taught the blessed-
ness of household work. If mistresses were better
taught, there would be little difficulty with servants,
but it is hopeless to expect better instructed servants,
or better behaved servants, until we have better in-
structed mistresses; and in dealing and speaking with
domestic servants, remember that of one flesh and of
one blood He made all nations. You must not
interpret what I am about to say as unfavourable to
orphan schools and asylums for girls. It is the
practice of these institutions to send girls at sixteen or


Mistresses and Servants.
59
seventeen into domestic service. Their first situation
is often a place where the mistress would be all the
better for doing the work herself, and whose circum-
stances do not admit of her acting justly towards a
servant. The first situation often disgusts a girl with
domestic service, and she prefers the slavery of the
needle and the factory, and the freedom of the street.
In large establishments everything is done by
machinery. Hot and cold water, coals, cleaning,
washing, drying, and even scrubbing and sweeping,
are done by steam; potatoes are washed, and food is
cooked, not in pounds, but tons. You might as reason-
ably expect a man to learn farming in a hot house, as
to obtain good domestic servants (except by accident)
from large establishments. The whole economy of
these places is unfavourable to domestic service; a
servant of all work generally begins life by wheeling
for hours on the pavement a perambulator with two
children, crying or sucking vigorously at the ends of
india-rubber gas-tubing. Everything about her is
wretched, depressing, and uncomfortable, and in a
month she makes a change, till at last, if she fall no
lower, she becomes the wife of a soldier or of a brick-
layer's labourer, and the one room, called a home, is a
den of filth and misery, and with a baby in her arms
she goes into the streets to sell lucifers. I have been
told by a lady of some experience that these girls
generally make the worst of wives. But domestic
service was once the highest ambition of girls, and
would be again if we would only act a kindly part
towards them, and do a little to make the poor things
happy and hopeful. Almost among the earliest things


60
Buckmaster's Cookery.
I can remember, were two clean, fresh-complexioned
young women, with strong boots and straw bonnets
of their own plait; they were the daughters of a
small farmer in a neighbouring village, and they had
come to thank my grandmother for some little kind-
ness before they went to service. They had each
a glass of mead and a piece of cake. I recollect the
waggon waiting at the end of the village, and most of
the people had turned out to wish them good luck
and good bye. They sat behind on their little wooden
boxes (made by the village wheelwright), which they
opened to show my grandmother, and they looked very
pretty and cheerful. The waggon, with six horses,
started on its journey, and my grandmother and I
walked across the meadow to meeting. I was a little
boy without a mother. It was a lovely evening, the
sun went down and seemed to rise again. At meeting
there were only about five or six persons. We sat
quietly for some time, as was the custom, and we often
separated without a word, but this evening my grand-
mother, who was not a minister, prayed fervently that
God would be a perpetual shield and protection to
these two girls, who were not of our way of thinking
on religious matters. Compare this with two sisters
leaving Whitechapel or Lambeth for service in our
time!
Domestic servants were once taken from a very
different class of society. Farmers and small trades-
people used to train their daughters with a view to
service, but the servants were treated more as equals
and as part of the family. Now they are frequently
taken from the lowest class of society. It is in these


Mistresses and Servants.
6
times something for a poor girl to have a cheerful
fire, a comfortable bed, a clean hearth-stone, plenty of
food and decent clothing; and these, I should hope,
are secured in most houses by domestic servants. In
return for these, the mistress has a right to faithful
service, obedience, carefulness, cleanliness, order, and
a kindly interest in the welfare and happiness of the
family ; although a servant, there is nothing to pre-
vent her feeling that she is one of the family. It was
this feeling which kept girls in their first situations
till they either married, or died old servants in the ser-
vice which they entered as young women. It is some-
times said, that this cannot be done in small houses
where only one or two servants are kept; but I know
from experience that it is just as easy to keep servants
for years in small houses as in large. I have been
married twenty-three years, and I have never kept
but one servant, and have never had but three,
and two of them left to be married, and I believe the
offer of double the wages would never have induced
one of them to leave us. The great secret is to treat
servants kindly, to take an interest in them, and in
most instances kindness begets kindness. If you find
your efforts to engage the love of your servant of no
avail, then the sooner you separate the better ; but,
before separating, ask yourself, " is it from any fault of
mine that I have failed ?” Never keep a servant who
feels no interest in the family, or who would not rise
in the middle of the night to serve you, or who per-
forms her daily work without a smile. I like to hear
a girl sing over her work; it shows she is happy.
In dress, which is a constant source of complaint


62
Buckmaster's Cookery.
and misery in many families, let mistresses set an
_example of neatness and good taste. The vulgarity
of the rich people is, for the most part, far worse in
its influence on society than the vulgarity of poor
people. Nothing conveys a better idea of a woman's
culture, whether a servant or a mistress, than the
propriety and neatness of her dress.
“Neat, trim, and tidy, there she stood,
No finery of dress,
But simple, modest, woman-like,
And pretty not the less.
“No hoop to swing and knock about,
The firm and well-starched skirt
Sits well, and just was short enough
To clear the dust and dirt.
“ And round her pleasant, cheerful face
No vulgar colours shone;
The neat white frill and well-brushed hair
Had beauty of its own.”
If there is any tendency to vulgarity in the style or
colour of the mistress's dress or bonnet, any large
display of jewellery, these will be exaggerated in the
servant. Teach your servants good taste in dress, not
by tracts, and sermons, and fault finding, but by the
more powerful example of a meek and quiet spirit;
and a mistress ought to feel rather complimented
than angry when her example is followed by others.
The love of ornament is no doubt instinctive in a
woman, and those who have had a better education
should guide and direct it among those who have not
had the same opportunities. A clean, neatly dressed,


Mistresses and Servants.
cheerful servant, is a perpetual charm in every house-
hold.
The only certain method of making good servants,
is to make those dependent on you respect and love
you. They cannot be made by fear to fulfil your
wishes, but love and respect will command anything.
The subject may appear too homely and common-
place to require consideration ; it is however one of
importance. We are all in some sense servants one of :
another; the rich are as dependent on the poor as
the poor are on the rich. There is a mutual servitude
and a mutual obligation in every condition of life, and
there is no sense in assuming high looks, and thinking
and acting otherwise. The best servants are those
who are best served ; and the goodwill and kindness
which we show to others are by them accorded to us;
for it is a sin to suppose that domestic servants are
by nature worse than their mistresses. We cannot
have a better example of what our behaviour towards
servants should be than that afforded by Boaz in his
language to his reapers, when he came into the har-
vest field where Ruth the Moabitess was gleaning.
Ruth, as we may all remember, was a young widow,
living with her mother-in-law Naomi. These two
came down to Bethlehem in the time of barley har-
vest, and Ruth went to glean in the field which be-
longed to Boaz. Instead of flying into a passion
and uttering oaths, or indulging in coarse jokes to
those working and gleaning, the address of Boaz to
his servants was, “ The Lord be with you !" and they
answered him, “ The Lord bless thee.”


LECTURE V.
HASHES AND STEWS.
Better is a dinner with herbs where love is than a stalled ox
and strife therewith.
If music be the food of love, play on.
HASHED mutton is the horror of most husbands,
but this arises from its not being properly prepared.
The first thing required is tender meat; if the leg or
shoulder of mutton be tough the hash will be tough; but
good tender mutton, with every piece which has seen
the fire carefully removed, and if the hash be pro-
perly prepared, may be made a palatable inviting dish.
Cold mutton, with a few sprigs of parsley and mashed
potatoes, is considered by most men a sufficient
justification for not coming home to dinner ; but what
is good enough for the wife and children, ought to be
good enough for the husband. I quite admit that the
greasy messes called hashes are not very inviting to a
man after a hard day's work; but there ought to be
no such thing as greasy messes, nor any place where a
man can obtain a better, a cheaper, or happier dinner
than with his wife and children. As for bachelors, it
is not of much consequence where they dine or what
they eat. The family dinner is the humanizing influ-
ence of every household. There is a freedom which


Hashes and Stews.
65
--- -
never obtains at any other time, and you get at the
inner life and thoughts of your children. Sir Thomas
Lawrence used to invite his sitters to dinner that he
might strictly understand the natural expression of
their characters. It should be the study of the wife
to make the plainest food varied and attractive by
good cooking, and she has a right to expect in return
love from her husband and children, and a kindly
interest in all the affairs of the family.
It is now some years ago, more than one likes to
remember, that I had a bachelor friend ; we used to
take long walks together, and discuss the affairs of the
country, and put everything right. My friend was a
philosopher : he used to say, “ Well, I've seen so many
fellows make a mess of getting married that I shall
be very careful what sort of woman I marry, that is, '
if I should ever be fool enough to marry.”
All this, and much more, my friend used to preach
to me whenever an opportunity offered. We were
both in the convict service, but not as convicts ;
he was my senior and had a salary of about 150l.
a-year, rising up to 2501. He was moved from
the country to London, and for a time we were
separated. In course of time I came to London, and
our walks and our friendship (which was the purest and
most disinterested I have ever known) were renewed;
but my friend had become a changed character. He
talked of the misery of being alone in London, and he
frequently spent his evenings at a house where there
were two young ladies, one of whom was very accom-
plished. She could do something in water-colours
and wool-work, could talk French, knew all about the


66
Buckmaster's Cookery.
kings of Judah, and the march of the Ten Thousand;
and, among other accomplishments, she could sing at
the Penny Readings. I reminded my friend of a verse
in Ecclesiasticus, “Avoid the company of a singing
woman, lest thou be overcome with her attempts."
He was a little angry, but was anxious to introduce me
to the other daughter, but I had given offence to the
mother by a speech at the Christian Young Men's
Tea-party, at which the mother and these young ladies
were present. I said that half the young ladies of the
present day would wonder how the apple got into the
dumpling, and all the mothers and the young ladies
present considered this very insulting. As all the parties
are now dead, there can be no impropriety in my refer-
ring to this circumstance. My friend got married on
200l. a-year, and a man and his wife may live respect-
ably and comfortably on 2001. a-year, if the woman
knows how to cook and the family is not too large. He
took a semi-detached villa, one of those ugly plaster
things in which the neighbourhood of London abounds.
Two months after my friend was married, he wished
me to dine with him and be introduced to his wife.
We met by appointment at the station and arrived at
the semi-detached villa, which was like a packing-case
with square holes. The hideous cast-iron railings in
front, the compo steps leading to the front door ;
the sixpenny knocker, painted black, with a goat's
head ; the newly varnished door, cracked and split in
every direction by the sun, like a map of Europe.
The newly gravelled path; the yellow marble paper
and narrow passage, with the drawing-room separated
from the dining-room by folding-doors, which would


Hlashes and Stews.
67
neither open nor shut; cheap ugly fireplaces, with
iron sufficient to make a railway 25 per cent. was
the leading idea of the man who built it. Inside and
outside there was nothing but show and untruthfulness.
The drawing room carpet was beginning to show
by faint white lines the exact width of the flooring
boards. The kitchen chimney had caught cold and
smoked, so we had to wait about three-quarters of an
hour beyond the time appointed for dinner, which
neither improved my friend's temper nor his language.
I kept saying it was all right, and as we had nothing
to do, waiting was of no consequence. At last the
happy moment arrived. Only a plain dinner, fish and
a leg of mutton ; they kept a very plain cook and a
waiting-maid. I thought this rather strong on two
hundred a year, but everybody must be the best judge
of their own affairs. A piece of turbot came up like
fish-soup, in small pieces; it had been boiled to rags
and strained over a colander, and I should never have
known what kind of fish it was if I had not been told.
My friend, I could see, was getting uncomfortable;
he complained about good fish being spoilt and the
waste of food and so on. Then followed the leg of
mutton, black all over except the ends. Attempts had
been made to scrape off the black, which had removed
the skin, which had been clumsily stuck on again ;
it looked anything but nice. When the knife went
into it off came the skin, and you could see that from
about three-quarters of an inch from the outside it was
as fresh and as tough as it was in the butcher's shop,
My friend was bursting with anger, but his wile said, very
blandly, " Cut off the outside, my dear, the remainder


68
Buckmaster's Cookery.
will do for hash; I am told it is all the better for not
being too much done.”
Then came the vegetables, cabbages and potatoes,
the potatoes in a squashy condition and the cabbages
raw. My friend now made use of language I had
never heard him use before. His wife remonstrated
with him, she threw all the blame on the servants,
who had, perhaps, never seen a leg of mutton before,
except in a butcher's shop. After my friend was a
little more composed he said to his wife, “ You ought
to have seen to the cooking yourself.” And now for
the climax. His wife replied, “ Very complimentary
to know that when you married me you thought you
were marrying a cook.” My friend swore, it was not
his habit. His wife cried and left the room, and this
is how two young persons commenced their married
life on two hundred a year.
We went into the garden and smoked ; my friend
seemed a little comforted with his pipe. I began to feel
he had made a mistake, but his was one of those natures
that could not or would not be reasoned with. He
gradually took to dining away from home, and spending
his evenings with sporting men or at billiards, he be-
came a gambler and a drunkard, lost his situation, and
died at thirty-one in an hospital. His wife endeavoured
to earn a livelihood for herself and her little child by
teaching music, and after a wearisome struggle the child
died, and the mother shortly followed to that place
where the weary are at rest. What a misfortune that
this young lady had never been taught the practical
| duties of domestic life, for God intended that man and
| wife should be happy in this world, but Pride, Pretence,


Hashes and Stews.
69
and Hypocrisy make us miserable. How to roast a leg
of mutton is better than singing at Penny Readings,
and for the benefit of young ladies whose mothers have
neglected their education, I will endeavour to teach
them how to make Hashed Mutton an attractive dish,
HASHED MUTTON.
Ingredients.
Eschalot. Cold mutton. Tomato sauce.
Bouquet garni.
Walnut.
Cut up neatly from a leg of mutton or other joint
all the meat in pieces about the same size. Remove
all the fat, skin and bone, and every piece which is
burned or blackened by the fire, or the hash will
have a strong disagreeable flavour. The parts not
used for hash may go into the stock-pot. Melt in a
quart stewpan one ounce of sweet butter, then two
finely minced eschalots and a dessert-spoonful of flour,
and stir for five minutes. Now add two gills of stock,
salt if necessary, half a teaspoonful of whole pepper,
one clove, three allspice, a bouquet garni, a teaspoon-
ful of walnut ketchup, or half the quantity of Worcester
sauce, and a tablespoonful of tomato sauce. Stir con-
tinually till the contents come to the boil, keep
boiling a few minutes, then strain into another stew-
pan, and let the sauce cool before adding the meat
or it will harden. When cold lay in the pieces of
meat, place the stewpan over the fire, and let the
contents gradually warm, occasionally shake the stew-
pan, and be careful not to let the hash boil. As soon
as the meat is sufficiently warmed serve with sippets
of bread fried in butter.


70
Buckmaster's Cookery.
Precautions.—Do not allow any of the tough skin
or gristle to go into the hash, and only let the meat
be warmed through in the sauce.
STEWS.
Stewing is the basis of what is called made dishes.
The perfection of stewing depends upon the slow pro-
cess by which the cooking is accomplished; the tempera-
ture should never exceed 190°. We often fail because
we are in too great a hurry; but a stew, like every-
thing else, suffers from being over-done. No rule can
be given ; everything depends upon the intelligence
and judgment of the cook. The lid should be removed
as little as possible. An occasional shaking of the
stewpan will often save the trouble of stirring. Stewing
is the most economical kind of cooking ; the flavour
and nourishment of all the materials are secured ; and
if the dish be not greasy and highly seasoned, the meat
is made tender, savoury, and easy of digestion.
IRISH STEW.
Ingredients.
Neck of mutton. Onions. Potatoes.
Take a neck of mutton, trim off some of the fat, and
cut into as many cutlets as you have bones; shape
them, and sprinkle them with pepper. Peel six
moderate sized onions; and for every pound of meat
take one pound of potatoes. Blanch the vegetables
separately. Take a clean three-quart stewpan, and
add half a pint of water or stock. Arrange a layer of
potatoes at the bottom of the stewpan, then cutlets
then onions; then potatoes, then cutlets, then onions


72
Buckmaster's Cookery.
them out, arrange on a dish, strain over the sauce
and serve with toasted bread cut into triangles and
arranged round the edge of the dish.
Precautions.--The stew requires constant attention,
and must only simmer.
HOTCH-POTCH.
Ingredients.
Neck or scrag of mutton. Green peas. Onions. Carrots.
Turnips.
Cauliflowers.
Stock.
Grate rather coarsely two young carrots, and slice
three carrots, three turnips, and three onions; shred one
lettuce and a bunch of parsley, altogether say a quart.
Take a pint of green peas when shelled, and the sprigs
of a cauliflower. Put aside half the peas in a basin.
Have ready in a clean four-quart stewpan three pints
of mutton stock or broth. Put in all the vegetables
except the peas put aside in the basin. Have ready
cutlets as for Irish stew, and put them in the stewpan.
Let the contents come slowly to a boil, then add two
ounces of pearl barley or rice, previously blanched in
a little water or stock, and simmer till the meat is
ready. Skim and season with white pepper and a
small teaspoonful of pounded loaf sugar. Boil the
remaining peas separately, and add them just before
serving. Hotch potch should be thick.
Precautions.—Young vegetables are very necessary
in preparing a good hotch-potch.
STEWED PIGEONS (1)
Ingredients.
Pigeons. Bacon. Mushrooms.
Butter. Onions. Stock.
Take three house pigeons (they are the best), draw,


Hashes and Stews.
73
pick, and singe them. Put the livers inside, and truss
them with legs inside. If the pigeons are large you may
divide them into halves. Take a quarter of a pound of
streaky bacon, cut it into one and a half inch dice,
and fry with an ounce of butter in a stewpan till of
a light brown colour. Put the pigeons in the stew-
pan and fry till they are of a light brown colour.
Then take out the bacon and pigeons and put them aside
on a plate. Thicken the butter in the stewpan with
flour; add a pint of stock with a few button mush-
rooms or ketchup. Season with pepper and salt, stir
till it comes to the boil, and strain into a basin. Rinse
out the stewpan with a little hot water, and put in the
pigeons, breasts downwards, with the gravy and bacon
and a bouquet garni; add ten button onions pre-
viously blanched and fried in a little butter to a nice
brown colour. Simmer about half an hour. Take
out the pigeons, put them on a dish. Bring the sauce
to a boil, skim, and strain the sauce over the pigeons,
and garnish with the onions, bacon, and mushrooms.
Instead of onions and mushrooms garnish with green
peas or French beans.
Precautions.-It will be necessary occasionally to
move the pigeons in the stewpan, or they are liable to
burn.
STEWED PIGEONS (2).
Ingredients.
Pigeons. Bacon. Stock. Bechamel sauce.
Proceed as already described. Cut off the heads
and necks of three house pigeons, truss them, and tie
round each of them a rasher of fat bacon. Put them
breast downwards into a stewpan with a little rich


74
Buckmaster's Cookery.
stock, and let them simmer till done. Keep the lid
closed. Put them on a dish, and remove the string, pour
some Bechamel sauce over the pigeons, and serve
with French beans or other vegetables. Some cooks
divide the pigeons into halves before stewing.
Precautions.---Young pigeons are necessary.
STEWED FOWLS.
Ingredients.
Fowl. Mushrooms. Tomatoes.
Stock.
Parsley.
Prepare and cut up at the joints a fowl or chicken.
Take a six-pint stewpan, melt two ounces of butter,
and fry in it for five minutes onc ounce of sliced carrot,
and one sliced onion, stirring with a wooden spoon.
Put in the pieces of fowl, with a little pepper and salt ;
add two tablespoonfuls of flour, stirring so as to
thoroughly mix with the butter. When mixed, add at
intervals about a pint of good stock, and four ounces
of picked tomatoes with the skins and seeds removed,
and broken in pieces. Stir, and let it come slowly to
the boil; then simmer. Now add six button mush-
rooms cut into slices, and a tablespoonful of chopped
parsley. Let it come to the boil, simmer for ten
minutes, then skim, baste, and serve.
Precautions.--Fresh tomatoes and mushrooms are
essential.
STEWED RABBITS.
Ingredients.
Rabbit. Onions. Mushrooms. Lemon.
Cut up a young rabbit into small joints, and put
hem aside. Take a quarter of a pound of streaky
icon, and cut it into small slices. Melt in a clean


Hashes and Stews.
75
stewpan one ounce and a half of butter, or sweet drip-
ping ; add the bacon, and when lightly fried add the
pieces of rabbit, and fry to a nice brown, constantly
stirring the whole with a wooden spoon. Now add a
tablespoonful of flour, work it well, and add at short
intervals a little water or stock, stirring all the time
till the pieces are just covered, season with pepper
and salt, and a small piece of lemon peel. Skim, then
simmer slowly, and add a dozen button onions and
six mushrooms, both previously blanched. When the
rabbit is done, take it out, and arrange it on a dish.
Boil the sauce, which should just coat the wooden
spoon, skim, and pour it over the rabbit.
Precautions.—The rabbit must be young, and see
that it does not burn or boil. The flavouring should
be delicate, and the sauce free from fat.
STEWED BREAST OF VEAL.
Ingredients.
Breast of veal. Oysters. Lemon. Mushrooms.
Cut off the neck, and remove the bone from a breast
of veal, and stew them for stock. Stuff the thin part
of the breast with some savoury forcemeat. Secure
the stuffing nicely by sewing or with skewers. Simmer
for nearly two hours the veal in the stock made with
the neck and bones. Take a pint of the stock for sauce,
and thicken it with a little flour and a dozen oysters
previously stewed, the beards removed, and cut up,
six button mushrooms minced, and a dozen white
peppercorns in a muslin bag. Strain the sauce hot over
the veal, and garnish with slices of lemon and forcemeat
balls. Cream, wine, truffles, ketchup, anchovy, are all
occasionally put into this dish.


Buckmaster's Cookery.
Precautions.—The stock should be made some time
and allowed to cool before putting in the veal.
STEWED STEAK.
Ingredients.
Beef or rump steak. Onions. Carrots. Turnips.
Take two pounds of beefsteak, or better rumpsteak,
an inch and a quarter or inch and a half in thickness,
and not too fat. Beat it with the flat side of a chopper,
or what is better a kreatone, which is an instrument
invented by a medical man at Chester to make steaks
tender, and which may be used for such purposes with
advantage. Cut the steak into convenient pieces, and
fry them in two ounces of butter to a nice brown on
each side. Cut into thin slices two onions and two
young carrots, and cut into quarter-inch dice two
young turnips, or cut them into shapes with a vegetable
cutter, and fry these vegetables in the same butter.
Put the meat and vegetables into a clean stewpan, with
half a pint or three gills of water or stock, simmer slowly
till the meat is tender. When half done, turn the
meat on the other side. Skim, season with a little salt
and pepper, add a little ketchup or six button mush-
rooms, or flavour the gravy with anything you prefer.
Take out the meat, thicken the gravy with a little flour,
let it come to the boil, skim, pour over the steak, and
serve. Garnish with green peas or French beans.
Precautions. The steak must stew slowly, be free
from fat, and not too highly seasoned.


Hashes and Steurs.
AUSTRALIAN MEAT STEW.
Ingredients.
Austruhan ment. Onions. Ketchap.
Worcester sanct.
Stock.
Stew six onions in two ounces of butter or dripping
till thoroughly done. Cut the meat across the grain
into slices, about half an inch in thickness. Divide the
onions into two parts, and put one part at the bottom
of a clean frying-pan, season with pepper and salt,
pilace the slices of meat on the onions, and add, if you
have it, a teaspoonful of ketchup or Worcester sauce.
Cover the meat with the remainder of the onions, put
a saucepan lid on the frying-pan, and gently warm the
meat through by putting it in the oven. Two table-
spoonfuls of stock or water may be added, if necessary,
to prevent the stew from being too strong. Serve
with potatoes, or other vegetables.
Precautions.—Remember the meat is already cooked,
and must only be warmed through.
JUGGED HARE.
Ingredients.
Beef-steak. Bacon. Bouquet garni. Bay-leaves.
Cut the hare into pieces, each about two inches in
length. Place at the bottom of a stewpan, or better
an earthenware jar, half a pound of beefsteak, and one
or two rashers of bacon or ham, a bouquet garni, an
onion with three cloves, the rind of a lemon, and a little
water or stock. Give the inside of the jar a rub with a
clove of garlic. Then put in the pieces of hare, and
season with pepper and salt, cover very closely, if
necessary, with flour-and-water paste. Place the jar


78
Buckmaster's Cookery.
in a large saucepan or copper, with water up to within
two inches of the top, or in a slow oven for three hours.
When ready, skim off the fat, take out the pieces of
hare, thicken and further season the sauce if necessary.
Arrange the pieces of hare on a dish, pour over the
hot sauce, and serve.
Precautions.—Have a close-fitting lid, and a little
hay or something at the bottom of the saucepan in
which the jar is placed to prevent it moving over with
the ebullition of the water.
MINCED VEAL.
Ingredients.
A rasher of lean ham. A bouquet garni.
White stock.
Lemon.
Cut up with a sharp knife into small slices the re-
mains of any cold veal; trim off all the fat, gristle,
and brown parts which have seen the fire. If you
have no stock, prepare a little in the following manner.
Take a clean stewpan, break up the bones, add the
trimmings of the veal and of any odd pieces in the larder
(a slice of ham is acceptable), cover with water, and
season with pepper and salt, a bouquet garni, a blade
of mace, and fifteen peppercorns, a slice or two of
lemonpeel (and a small sliced carrot and onion if the
flavours are liked). Let these simmer for two or three
hours. Strain into a basin, let the stock cool, and
remove all the fat. Melt in a stewpan an ounce of
butter, stir in a tablespoonful of flour, add the stock,
boil, skim if necessary, and stand it aside to cool a
little ; then stir in the veal ; let it gently simmer, just


Stews.
STEWED LENTILS AND BACON.
Ingredients.
Lentils. Bacon. Parsley.
Soak for three hours in cold water half a pint of len-
tils, put them into a saucepan with plenty of cold water,
and let them boil for half an hour, then strain them over
a colander. Return the lentils to the saucepan, and
cover with barley-water, which is the water in which
pearl barley has been boiled; add an onion with three
cloves, and a bouquet garni. Scrape and trim a pound
of bacon or salt pork, which will be all the better if
previously blanched for a few minutes. Put it in the
saucepan with the lentils, and simmer till the lentils
are thoroughly cooked : season with pepper and salt
and a little chopped parsley. Turn the lentils on a
dish, and place the bacon on them, and serve. Haricot
beans will do as well as lentils.
Precautions.—The bacon or pork should not be old
or coarse; and add just sufficient water to cover.
TRIPE AND ONIONS.
Ingredients.
Tripe. Onions. Milk.
Tripe is usually purchased ready boiled, it should
be thick, white, and fresh ; but it still requires cook-
ing. Cut it into pieces about three inches by two
inches, trim off the fat, wash it well in cold water and
dry it on a clean cloth. It may be whitened like veal,
chicken, or turbot, by rubbing over with lemon-juice.
First blanch the tripe for five or ten minutes in water,
then take some new milk, put it into a stewpan, and add
G


82
Buckmaster's Cookery.
the tripe. Simmer very gently for two or three hours,
stir frequently with a wooden spoon to prevent the
tripe sticking or burning at the bottom of the sauce-
pan. Boil six or eight onions, and, when done, chop
them up, add to the tripe, and season with pepper and
salt and a small teaspoonful of pounded loaf-sugar.
Two dessert spoonfuls of four may be stirred into the
milk to thicken it, a quarter of an hour before serving.
Tripe may be boiled in plain water, and served with
onion sauce and mustard, or it may be boiled in veal
stock with fresh beef bones, or baked in milk and
served with onion sauce, or, after it is boiled, it may
be dipped in batter, and fried for five minutes in
butter with finely minced eschalots to a golden-brown
colour.
Precautions.—It is necessary that the tripe should be
fresh and slowly simmered, with frequent attention.
STEWED KIDNEYS.
Ingredients.
Kidneys Thyme Mushrooms.
Lemon. Parsley. Butter.
Stock.
Skin half a dozen kidneys, and remove all the fat.
Cut them across into slices the thickness of a penny.
Mince a small eschalot, two mushrooms, and a little
thyme finely, and use double the quantity of minced
parsley. Sprinkle the sliced kidneys with the mixture
and a little salt and pepper, with just the smallest
sprinkle of cayenne. Melt two ounces of butter in a
clean stewpan, and fry the kidneys to a brown colour,
first on one side then the other. Thicken with a


Beef a la Mode.
83
little flour, and finish with a gill or half a pint of hot
stock or gravy, and a squeeze of lemon. Let it come
to the boil, skim if necessary, and serve with sippets of
fried bread.
Precautions.—The kidneys are not to be opened
but cut into slices across, and be careful not to fry
them too much before adding the flour and stock.
STEWED CHEESE.
Ingredients.
Cheese. Eggs. Ale or chablis.
Cut into thin slices half a pound of good Gloucester
or Cheddar cheese. Take a clean quart stewpan and put
in the cheese with a little old ale or chablis, and stir
over the fire till it is melted, beat up the yolks only of
two eggs and a small teaspoonful of dry mustard and
a very little cayenne ; stir for two minutes over the
fire, and serve very hot with toasted or fried sippets
of bread. The top may be browned with a hot iron
or salamander, or in front of a brisk fire. Sometimes
the cheese is spread over toast and served.
Precautions.—Do not let it burn, and if the cheese is
not very rich add a little butter or salad oil ; serve
hot; and be careful with the cayenne.
BEEF A LA MODE.
Ingredients.
Flank of beef.. Calf's feet. Stock. Bacon.
Bouquet garni. Carrots. Onion. Garlic.
This is a very popular dish, and, if nicely prepared,
is one which never fails to give satisfaction.
Take five pounds of thick flank of beef, and two
G2


84
Buckmaster's Cookery.
slices of fat bacon half an inch in thickness. Remove
the rind, and cut the bacon into strips of half an inch;
this will give you pieces half an inch in section ;
sprinkle the strips of bacon with pepper ; lard the
beef in the direction of its grain, and tie it up. Place
it in a stewpan, with three pints of stock, the rind of
bacon, and two calf's feet, all previously blanched,
and the feet boned.
Proceed exactly as for the pot au feu, add a tea-
spoonful of salt, let it come gradually to the boil, and
skim ; then add four small carrots, one onion with
three cloves stuck in it, a bouquet garni with a clove
of garlic, and a little pepper. Close the stewpan
tightly, and simmer slowly for four hours.
When the beef is done take it out, with the call's
feet and carrots, and put aside to keep hot. Remove
all the fat, and strain the liquor through a pointed
strainer into another stewpan, reduce it over a brisk
fire for half an hour. Remove the string, place the
beef on a dish, and garnish with carrots and call's
feet. Pour over the reduced liquor, and serve. If
required cold, put it into a basin, or earthenware
mould, with the calf's feet, vegetables, and liquor,
which will gelatinize into a solid mass. When cold it
can be turned on to a dish.
Precautions.—The gravy should be thick and gela-
tinous, and cooking very slowly is necessary.


LECTURE VI.
Blood is the life and strength of all flesh.
When thou hast eaten and art full, then thou shalt bless the
Lord thy God.
ON THE FUNCTION OF FOOD.-FEEDING CHILDREN.-
THE LIVING BODY CONSIDERED AS A MACHINE.
The body is repaired and maintained from day
to day by food, and by food we mean that kind of
aliment, no matter by what name it may be called,
which, by digestion, is converted into healthy blood,
and capable of producing the most perfect physical
power. In adult life, where the waste and gain are
equal, the body remains at the same weight, and
this is the condition of health. In childhood and
youth the supply must be in excess of the waste,
because you have to build up the future man, and
the body daily increases in weight. This is a period
of the greatest importance as regards proper food.
The growth of the whole body is the growth of its
several parts, and from the food the materials are fur-
nished out of which each part is formed. The body
must be daily supplied with such substances as may
be changed into tissue like that which it has to repair,
because the stomach has no power to create anything
or to change one kind of food into another kind. In
old age the waste increases on the supply, and the


86
Buckmaster's Cookery.
body slowly falls into decay. The particles of the
tissues change more rapidly in youth, and this pro-
bably explains why young meat is more tender than
old, and why any excess in youth is more easily cast off.
The principal daily requirements of the body are the
repair of tissue and the maintenance of temperature.
Every vital action produces heat, and these actions
must continue throughout life.
Where the food is insufficient, and where there has
been no storing of fat or nitrogen, the body falls into
weakness and disease, and this is the natural tendency
of all underfed or improperly-fed people; and with
persons imperfectly nourished there is generally a low
state of morality. Half the applications for hospitals
and dispensaries come from persons who want food,
and one cannot fail to be struck with the pale at-
tenuated appearance of labourers who are undersized,
twisted, and doubled up, and worn out before persons
well fed and in comfortable circumstances begin to
feel the influence of years. In all our large towns
the same thing is observable. The declining physical
power of the labouring poor is a matter of regret, and
as a natural result opium-eating, smoking, and drink-
ing are, in many localities, on the increase. Pure
air, physical exercise, temperance, and a sufficiency of
plain wholesome food are the conditions of health and
happiness laid down by a higher authority than a
parish vestry. The best offering you can make the
poor is to instruct them in the art of cooking, and
teach them what constitutes food : and the most fitting
memorial of God's goodness is the provident and
careful use of the blessings which He has provided.


The Function of Food. -
87
It is very important that every poor woman should
know how to spend her money on what is really worth
the money, and to make what she purchases go as far
as possible by good cooking. I want them to know
that from vegetables alone a wholesome, economic,
and nourishing diet may often be prepared. Why
are Haricot beans, peas, lentils, oatmeal, macaroni,
Indian meal, and rice, not more used ? It is because
people are ignorant of the value of these foods, and
the art of making them savoury by cooking has yet to
be learnt. As a rule, children, not only of the poorer
classes, but of the middle classes, are often underfed,
and many of their ailments arise from a debility of con-
stitution, brought about by under or improper feeding ;
and to give strength, quinine, cod-liver oil, port wine,
and other stimulants are given instead of food.
The diet of children should be a breakfast, with
cocoa, milk, macaroni, porridge, or eggs; a dinner of
meat, vegetables, and pudding; a substantial supper,
like the breakfast, with cocoa or milk. This is the
dietary of health, a diet capable, with pure air and
exercise, of making a strong body and a strong mind,
and a diet which will often improve weakly children
and protect them against many diseases. There is
no period of life when more food is required than in
.childhood and youth. The hard-working labourer
does not exhaust a greater quantity of nutritious food
than a strong, healthy, growing boy of twelve or four-
teen years of age.
If it be admitted that from the food the body is
continually built up and kept in health, how can it be
expected if the food be insufficient, or, from its nature,


88
Buckmaster's Cookery.
incapable of making healthy blood, that we can have
anything but a weak race of men and women always
complaining of ill-health. The stomach has often to
work and waste its power on a mass of useless material.
Masters of schools and parents should not measure
the appetites of children by their own wants. A
morbid condition of the skin, ringworm, and debility of
constitution in children are often traceable to imperfect
nourishment. Where there is an insufficiency of food,
or, what is the same thing, improper food, the vital
functions go on and the body lives on itself; and this
explains in some degree the frequent occurrence of
consumption in rapidly growing and ill-fed youths.
The intellectual culture and progress of a boy depend
very much on physical power. In looking over the
advertisements of boarding schools it is a matter of
regret that a substantial diet is not sufficiently recog-
nised. I do not undervalue the importance of light,
cleanliness, physical exercise, temperance, and pure
air and good water ; but all these are unavailing with-
out abundance of wholesome well-cooked food. As
this question is very important, let us now consider it
a little more in detail.
Waste.—All substances when in action, or in con-
tact with moving bodies, lose a portion of their
material, and undergo a process of wear or waste.
The mountain-tops are gradually lowered; the
hardest rock is slowly reduced ; our ships, our houses,
our machinery, our tools, our clothes, and all imple-
ments of domestic use, gradually yield to the destruc-
tive agency of this process of wear and waste. A
carpenter's plane, and even iron tools, are frequently


The Function of Food.
worn into holes by the continued friction of the thumb
and fingers. Soft solids, especially those containing
liquids, waste more readily than hard ones.
The living body is chiefly made up of soft solids
and liquids ; it is always in a state of greater or less
mechanical activity, and is the seat of continuous and
varied chemical action. When powerful mechanical,
chemical, and vital activities are combined, this pro-
cess of waste is greatly increased, and it is supposed
that the entire substance of the body is changed in
the course of two or three years; and it has been
further calculated that a quantity of material equal to
the entire weight of the body is carried away every
forty days, so that the greater part of our body is
renewed in that time.
Starvation proves Waste.--If food be entirely with-
held from an adult he gradually loses weight, becoming
thinner, lighter, and feebler, until he has lost about
forty per cent., or two-fifths of his entire weight, when
death usually takes place. Death generally occurs in
from ten to twenty days, and is very rarely delayed
beyond fourteen days. In one or two cases, however,
it has not occurred till the twenty-third day after
deprivation from food. If an average adult human
being be insufficiently fed, he will lose bulk and
weight, but in this instance much more slowly than
when the deprivation from food is entire. When the
bodily loss has amounted to about forty per cent.,
which is about the limit consistent with life, death
takes place, and the body becomes subject to the
ordinary processes of decay.
Rate of IVaste. Various attempts have been made


90
Buckmaster's Cookery.
to ascertain the rate of waste in the human body by
calculations founded on the amount of the daily egesta,
or substances thrown out of the body. The daily
egesta consist chiefly of carbonic acid gas, about two
pounds; water, about six pounds; urea, about 480
grains; salts, 485 grains; in addition to the fæces,
which consist chiefly of the undigested residue of
badly-cooked food.
These egesta are partly derived from the disinte-
gration and oxidation or combustion of the waste
tissues, and partly from the oxidation of the food. It
has been calculated that about one and a half pound
of the carbonic acid gas, about three-fifths of a pound of
the water, and about 240 grains of the urea are derived
from the disintegration and combustion of the tissues
of the body itself, more especially of the muscular
and fatty tissues, the rest being derived from the food,
including drink, daily ingested.
The following table, from Brinton, indicates more
elaborately the estimated amount of daily bodily waste
according to the researches of Valentine and others.
The typical man, on whom the calculations are sup-
posed to be based, represents a healthy male, thirty-
five years old, five feet six inches in height, and ten
stones in weight. It must, however, be understood
that the quantities given are simply approximative,
and must vary with constitution, temperature, mental
and bodily activity, state of health, and the general
condition of the atmosphere :-


The Function of Food.
91
20
Salts )
TABLE OF DAILY BODILY WASTE.
gr.
('arbonic acid
. . . 14,000
Water (8,400 of which are formed by combustion) 42,000
t'rea (including carbonate of ammonia, 20 grs.?) 480
Other organic constituents of the urine: namely,
uric acid (8), kreatinin (7), kreatine (46), lactic
and hippuric acids (indeterminate), together
about . . . . . . . .
( by the skin . 80)
fæces. 50. , , . 830
l urine · 700 )
Total . . . . 57,330
The carbonic acid and water of the 57,330 grains
of daily matter egested are partially made up of the
14,570 grains of oxygen daily absorbed by the lungs
and skin in the process of respiration. If we deduct
from the 57,330 grains of egesta the 14,570 grains of
absorbed oxygen, the remainder, 42,760 grains (about
six pounds), will show the quantity of food daily
required to support the system.
Annual Change of Bodily Substance.—During the
course of one year the body consumes about twenty
times its own weight of food and oxygen. It receives
about 800 pounds of solid food, about 1,500 lbs. of
liquids, and about 800 lbs. of oxygen, which is princi-
pally absorbed through the lungs in the process of
breathing. The total weight of substances consumed
by the body during one year, therefore, amounts to
upwards of 3,000 pounds, or about a ton and a half.
The living organism wastes because of the mechanical,
chemical, and vital actions to which it is subject.
The mechanical actions are produced through the


92
Buckmaster's Cookery.
agency of the voluntary and involuntary muscles, the
bones, and the ligaments. Every time we move our
arm, or wink our eye, a portion of the muscle is
destroyed, and requires to be repaired or restored by
the process of nutrition. All mental action is per-
formed through the agency of the brain and nervous
system, and every time we think, or see an object, or
hear a sound, a portion of the brain and nerve of
sight or of hearing is destroyed, and ceases to exist
as brain or nerve. No animal can continue to exist
if its body falls below a certain temperature. A pro-
cess of slow combustion, or burning, is continually
progressing in its substance, by which the animal heat
is sustained and the bodily weight is diminished.
The liquids of the body also suffer loss by evaporation
and respiration.
Continual loss is also sustained in the various pro-
cesses of solution, circulation, and the chemical
changes incurred in the processes of digestion and
secretion.
Waste is in proportion to Exertion.-Increase of
bodily or mental exertion produces increased waste.
The bricklayer's labourer or the navvy renews his
muscular, osseous, and fatty tissues much more rapidly
than the student, and, as a consequence, enjoys a
better appetite, possesses a more vigorous digestion,
and consumes a much greater quantity of food.
During his pedestrian summer tour the quantities of
carbonic acid, water, urea, and salts eliminated from
the body of the student, professional man, or clerk,
are greatly increased, sometimes even doubled ; the
quantity of food taken being correspondingly increased.


94
Buckmaster's Cookery.
and applied; but the heat developed depends on the
metamorphosis the coal undergoes in the process of
combustion, or, in other words, on the quantity of
coal burnt. It is easy to calculate the mechanical
power of the steam-engine by the quantity of the heat
evolved and applied; and it is very easy to calculate
the quantity and intensity of the heat evolved by
determining the quantity of fuel of a given chemical
composition consumed in a given time. Dr. Joule,
of Manchester, has determined, after many years of
able and laborious experiment, that the quantity of
heat which will raise the temperature of one found
of water one degree, measured on the centigrade
thermometer, will, if applied mechanically, raise 1392
pounds avoirdupois one foot high.
This quantity of heat has therefore been taken as
the mechanical unit of heat, and by means of it we
are enabled to determine the mechanical equivalent,
or moving power of any degree of heat. It has been
determined by experiment that during combustion
one pound of carbon evolves as much heat as would
raise 8000 pounds of water one degree in temperature.
8000 X 1392 = 11,136,000 pounds, or the number of
pounds avoirdupois that may be raised through one
foot of space by the mechanical force evolved in the
combustion of one pound of carbon. Again, it has
been determined that the heat evolved during the
combustion of one pound of hydrogen—that is, by its
chemical union with the necessary quantity of oxygen,
transmuted into mechanical force, would raise the
astounding weight of 47,328,000 pounds one foot
high. But the union of the oxygen and the carbon,


The Function of Food.
95
and the oxygen and the hydrogen, in the human body
is attended by the evolution of the same quantity of
heat as in the case of its ordinary combustion outside
the body; therefore it is easy to calculate approxi-
matively the mechanical equivalent to the forces set
free in the body in the performance of the mechanical,
chemical, and vital processes, if we can only determine
the respective quantities of carbon and hydrogen
consumed or oxidized in the system.
According to Liebig, an ordinary man consumes, or
converts into carbonic acid, about thirteen ounces and
nine-tenths of an ounce of carbon per day. This is
probably a little in excess of the true amount.
Adopting this estimate, the amount of force generated
daily in the human body by the combustion of the
carbon alone would, if used mechanically, raise
9,674,400 pounds avoirdupois one foot high.
Vital Decomposition.—The body, as has been shown,
is the seat of constant change. Its particles are con-
tinually undergoing a series of changes, of decom-
position and degradation,--are incessantly dying and
being removed from the system. But the dead par-
ticles are as incessantly being replaced by newly-
formed living ones, so that the body still retains its
general life, form, and properties.
General Functional View of Man.--Man is endowed
by God with the power of performing numerous more
or less complex functions. His highest, noblest, and
most distinctive function is thought, including under
this term, knowledge, reflection, the religious and
moral feelings and emotions, the sentiments and
affections. The mind would be unable to act unless


Curries.
CURRIES.
I have frequently been told that we never succeed
with curries as they do in India and China, where in
some form or other it is a standing dish. Almost
everything may be cooked in curry, but white meats
are best; the great art consists in using good stock,
and genuine curry paste or powder.
Different things require different treatment. You
would not curry a chicken exactly the same as a piece
of cod ; the seasoning should in each case be adapted
to the thing curried, and no other kind of cooking
admits of such a variety of flavouring. It is a mistake
to boil curries; the aroma, which is very volatile,
passes off with boiling, and the true flavour of the
curry goes up the chimney. Whenever the nose is
strongly impressed, it is an evidence that the cooking
is going wrong. Curries are always served with plain
boiled rice. It is sometimes difficult to obtain good
curry powder. The following recipe is from Dr.
Kitchener, who advises persons to prepare their own :-
Curry Powder.—Dry and reduce to powder three
ounces of coriander seed, three ounces of turmeric, one
ounce of black pepper, one ounce of ginger, half an
ounce of small cardamoms, quarter of an ounce of
Cayenne pepper, quarter of an ounce of cinnamon,
quarter of an ounce of cummin seed. Thoroughly
pound in a mortar and mix together, and keep in a
close stoppered bottle.
Before proceeding with a curry I would suggest the
reading over all the recipes, so as to exercise the
н


98
Buckmaster's Cookery.
ingenuity and intelligence of the cook by joining parts
of the several recipes.
CURRIED FOWL OR CHICKEN.
Ingredients.
A fowl. Curry powder. Onions. Stock.
After preparing the fowl, cut it up by first separating
the wings, then the legs; now separate the breast from
the back, cut off the neck and the pinions at the
second joint, and the feet at the first joint; cut each
piece across twice neatly, and keep on the skin.
Put one ounce and a half of butter into a clean
stewpan with two onions cut into small slices, or one
Spanish onion, and let them stew to a pulp, then add
the pieces of fowl, and fry lightly. Add one ounce
of flour, stir till well mixed, then add one ounce of
curry powder, season with pepper and salt; add at
intervals one pint of stock, and simmer till the fowl
is ready. Place a colander over a basin, and pour
into it the contents of the stewpan. Shape the pieces
of fowl and return to the stewpan. Strain the sauce
over them, add a little lemon juice, warm up, and
serve with boiled rice.
Precautions.-It is essential in preparing a curry
that the contents of the stewpan are not allowed to
boil. A little chutnee is sometimes added.
CURRIED MEAT.
Ingredients.
Curry powder. Mushrooms. Onions.
Lemon.
Milk.
Cut into pieces rather small, but suitable to serve at
table, any lean meat or rabbit, fish, or fowl. Take a


Curries.
99
clean stewpan, and melt an ounce and a half of butter,
add the pieces of meat, a Spanish onion sliced or button
onions, a few chopped mushrooms, and fry them lightly
to a golden brown colour; add at intervals and stir in
a pint of good stock or broth, which need not be
seasoned. When this has simmered slowly for ten or
fifteen minutes, add one ounce of curry powder, or
half powder and half curry paste, first mixed smoothly
together in a basin with a little cream or milk or
stock; stir in and mix thoroughly. When the curry is
ready, add the juice of half a lemon; and skim off
the fat.
Precautions.—Constant attention is necessary in the
preparation of curries.
CURRIED EGGS.
Ingredients.
Hard-boiled eggs. Curry powder, Onions.
Cream.
Stock.
Shred finely two onions or one Spanish onion, and
fry in butter till they are of a nice brown colour, add
a little flour, and stir continually; at intervals add
half a pint of stock. Let the whole boil up for five
minutes, mix three tablespoonfuls of cream with a
tablespoonful of curry powder, and add to the contents
of the stewpan. Now add four hard-boiled eggs (ten
minutes), cut carefully into slices or quarters, so that
the yolk does not fall away from the white, slowly
simmer for five minutes, and serve.
Precautions.—Constant stirring, and not too strongly
flavoured, are essential.
285935
H
2


100
Buckmaster's Cookery.
TO BOIL RICE.
Ingredients.
Rice.
Wash the rice in two or three waters with a little
salt. Drain it on a colander, then shake the rice into
plenty of boiling water, with a small teaspoonful of
salt, and give it one or two stirs with a wooden spoon.
Let it boil briskly about twenty minutes with the lid
partly off. Try a grain with the thumb and finger,
and as soon as it is tender drain the rice on to a
colander and dry it before the fire, or return it for two
or three minutes to a warm, dry saucepan.
Precautions.--Every grain of rice should be sepa-
rate, dry, and well boiled.


LECTURE VII.
Can that which is unsavoury be eaten without salt, or is there
any taste in the white of an egg?
The fundamental principle of all
Is what ingenious cooks the relish call.
AUSTRALIAN MEAT.
This morning we enter upon the discussion of an
important question : The best way of cooking Aus-
tralian meat, and rendering it palatable and whole-
some. The best way is to make soup with the jelly,
and cat the meat cold, with vegetables or salads.
There are numerous recipes for cooking Australian
meat, but the misfortune is that it is already too much
cooked.
In this country a diet of animal and vegetable food
is most acceptable, but the high price of meat, except
fat pork and bacon, exclude fresh meat, except in
small scraps from the homes of a large number of
families, and the pieces occasionally purchased are
made tough and indigestible by frying or baking.
Instead of a little soup or stew, thickened with a little
meal and flavoured with herbs, the meat is hardened
and frizzled in a frying-pan with onions and sour
potatoes.


102
Buckmaster's Cookery.
Some years ago the late Sir Robert Peel directed
his attention to the gradual diminution in the con-
sumption of animal food, which he regarded as a kind
of standard of the physical power and comfort of the
labouring classes, and with a view of increasing the
quantity and keeping down the price he facilitated the
importation of foreign cattle, which had been pro-
hibited in the interest of the British' farmer. Since
his time the population has more than doubled, but
the supply of animal food has not much increased,
and the price has risen from twenty-five to thirty per
cent. ; and just as we have become dependent on
foreign countries for nearly half our supply of bread
we must, if we are to eat meat, become more and
more dependent on other countries for our supply.
We cannot rely either on Europe or America or
Canada for any large importations, we must, there-
fore, look more and more to the vast tracts of pasture
land in Australia, New Zealand, and South America.
The United Kingdom contains one bullock for
every six persons, and scarcely one sheep to each
inhabitant; but, in Australia, you have two and a half
bullocks to each person and thirty sheep to every
inhabitant; and while the stock of cattle in Australia
and New Zealand and South America is largely on
the increase the stock of cattle in the United Kingdom
was less in 1871 than it was in 1870; and as the im-
portation of live cattle from these places is impossible,
we must, if we are to have meat at all, have it in a
preserved state. There are four methods of preserving
meat. The first is known as the freezing process ;
the second, and most general, is the tinning process;


Australian Meat.
103
the third, the concentrated meat process; and the
fourth, the antiseptic, or curing process.
The freezing process consists in preserving the meat
in ice, or in a freezing atmosphere. The idea is to bring
the meat fresh from Australia in ice-houses, but the
experiment has not proved successful.
The tinning process has been in operation for years,
and is the one generally in use. Tins are filled with
meat; a 4 lb. tin contains 4 lbs. 4 oz. of raw meat
without bone; after the meat is placed in the tin the
top is soldered on, and a small hole left in the centre.
The tins are now placed on a gridiron in a bath of salt
and water, called the chloride of calcium bath ; the
bath is first raised to a temperature of 220°, then to
230°, then to 260°, and the time occupied is about
three hours : this is a temperature of 48 degrees hotter
than boiling water, which is said to be necessary to
remove all the air and life germs; every little cell
containing air and water is broken up, and the steam
and air escape at the small hole, which is suddenly
closed with the soldering iron. The tins are put
aside to cool, when the external pressure of the
atmosphere often forces the tops into a battered
shape and makes them concave. You will under-
stand from this process why preserved meats lose
much of their flavour. The steam issuing from
the tin may be condensed, when it is found to be
nothing but water with a slight flavour of the meat.
The osmazome upon which the flavour of the meat
depends has been separated by the boiling, and while
the flavour of the meat is injured, the flavour of the
jelly is increased, and we can have this flavour in the


104
Buckmaster's Cookery.
soup. If science is to do anything for cooking there
ought to be some method of restoring this flavour of
osmazome, in the same way as a manufacturer of
scents prepares from a few substances the perfumes
of new-mown hay, violets, jasmine, and other flowers,
without any of them being used in the manufacture.
Du Broussin, a celebrated gourmand, used to say, if
my cook were not able to prepare any kind of fish to
eat like partridges or woodcocks then he has rot
learnt the true art of cookery.
Another method of preserving meat has been pro
posed, known as the antiseptic process, which consists
in the use of sulphurous acid and other chemicals.
The object is to prevent the decomposition of fresh
meat by excluding the oxygen of the air. This pro-
cess has met with little success, and the meat so
preserved tastes strongly of the chemicals, nor is the
process a very reliable one.
Another plan is known as the concentrated process.
About 30 lbs. of meat is reduced to 1 lb., and this is
called the essence or extract of meat, and is recom-
mended for making beef-tea and soups. Almost
every chemist and grocer sells this extract of meat ;
but we cannot depend on extracts of meat as an
article of food any more than we can depend on a
teaspoonful of flavoured alcohol for beer and spirits.
The stomach requires quantity as well as quality.
There is no method of making meat more nutritious,
in the sense usually understood. If you have one
pound of extract and dilute it with thirty pounds of
water, you have only one pound of solid matter in
solution.. You may dessicate vegetables and meat


Australian Meat.
105
and free them from water, so as to occupy a smaller
bulk, and when you have done this you have done
all that you can do.
For the present we must rely on meats preserved
in tins, and to this there are really only two valid
objections, the price and the over-cooking. The prepa-
ration of every tin of meat costs threepence, and this
makes the process expensive; the meat in the tin costs
about one penny per pound in Australia. It is, how-
ever, fair to mention that the meats imported to this
country differ greatly in quality, flavour, and appear-
ance, just as an old cow would differ from a Scotch
heifer, or a Merino sheep from a four-year-old South-
down. Some persons have an impression that the meat
is inferior to English meat; but no country in the
world has finer breeds of cattle than Australia ; they
have all come from the best English stock. There
were no sheep or oxen in Australia before the arrival
of English settlers; and the first sheep were imported
in 1809 to feed convicts. Another objection is, that
kangaroos and elephants and horses are cut up. I do
not know how they obtain the elephants and horses ;
and kangaroos are far more costly in Australia than
oxen or sheep. Others object that it is not a whole-
some food—that men could not live on it and do
a hard day's work. No person can be healthy on
one kind of food. A man may be starved on beef-
steaks and mutton-chops, and no one wishes to say
that you are to live on preserved meats. What we
have to consider is, Can these meats be used as an
economic, wholesome article of food with other
things? None of the nutritive or flesh-forming pro-


106
Buckmaster's Cookery.
perties of the meat are lost in tinning, and you have
4 lbs. of solid cooked meat, without bone, which are
equal to at least 6 lbs. of butcher's meat. The preju-
dice against preserved meat can only be gradually
overcome by the middle and upper classes eating it.
Several varieties of soup may be prepared from
Australian meat.
GRAVY SOUP.
Open a four pound tin, then place it in a saucepan
of boiling water to loosen the fat and jelly, pour
a little hot water close to the inside of the tin so
as not to soak the meat. All this is to dissolve
the jelly and gravy. Turn the meat into a large
basin, pour over it a little more boiling water, remove
the meat to a dish and pour the contents of the basin
into a two quart stewpan, and add sufficient boiling
water to make a quart or three pints of stock. Let
it come to the boil, skim off the fat, season with
pepper and salt, and strain it into a soup tureen over
small cubes of toasted bread, and serve.
- A JULIENNE SOUP.
· Proceed in precisely the same way with another
tin. Shred one onion, one small turnip, a little celery,
and two young carrots. Melt one ounce and a half
of butter in a three pint stewpan, and cook the vege-
tables for ten minutes in the butter, without stewing.
Then strain your soup into the stewpan with the vege-
tables, season with pepper and salt, stand the stewpan
aside to simmer, and when the vegetables are tender
e soup is ready. The meat may be made into a


Australian Meat.
107
stew, as already given (page 76), the small pieces
either made into mince or treated as follows :-
CROQUETS OF AUSTRALIAN MEAT.
Croquets are considered rather a delicacy, and may
be made with the remnants of game, chicken, fish,
potatoes, mushrooms, sweetbread, lobster, rabbit, &c.,
and is an excellent way of using what might otherwise
be wasted.
Mince finely the trimmings of the Australian meat
and put them on a plate. Melt one and a half ounce
of butter in a stewpan, stir in a dessert-spoonful of
flour, and add a little of the stock. Season with
pepper and salt, add a little powdered spice, or
nutmeg, but not both. When the butter and flour are
thoroughly mixed add the minced meat and a little
chopped parsley. The croquet material must always ..
be sufficiently firm to shape.
Prepare a liason, by beating up the yolk of one
egg with the juice of a lemon, take out some of the
mince and mix in the basin with the liason. Remove
the stewpan from the fire, then add the liaison and
thoroughly mix by stirring with a wooden spoon.
Turn it on to a dish, spread it out to cool. When it
is sufficiently firm to handle, make the croquets by
shaping the mince with the hands into pieces about
the size of a cork, trimming the ends with a knife,
and lay them on a plate. Beat up an egg, adding a
little oil, and roll each croquet in the egg and then in
dried bread crumbs, cover thoroughly, and put them
aside on a dish. They are now ready for the frying-
basket and should be fried to a golden-brown colour .


108
Buckmaster's Cookery.
in fat, at a temperature of from 380" to 390", Garnish
with fried parsley. (Australian Meat Stew, see p. 76.)
These were the methods adopted in the Cookery
School for cooking Australian meat, but the recipes
are numerous.


LECTURE VIII.
" Fish must swim twice-once in the water and once in the fat."
“ Fried soles-you know, served with little kickshaws."
FRYING.
THERE are two methods of frying: the dry method,
as when we fry an omelette or a pancake ; and the wet
method, as when the thing fried is immersed in fat.
For dry frying we generally use a frying-pan; for wet
frying a frying-kettle. As a bath for frying purposes
we generally use fat. The light-coloured dripping of
roast beef and the fat skimmed off broth are to be
preferred. The next best fat for frying is beef suet,
chopped fine and melted down over a slow fire without
browning. Lard is the fat generally used for frying ;
but it is liable to leave an unpleasant flavour after it.
When you can see the bottom of the stewpan through
the liquid fat it is sufficiently melted. Let it cool for
a few minutes, and strain through a pointed strainer.
The reason for allowing the fat to cool a little is to
prevent its melting the strainer. When butter is used
greater care is required, because it rises rapidly in
temperature and requires a slow fire. Oil requires


112
Buckmaster's Cookery.
Fried things should be of a golden-brown colour, crisp,
and free from fat. The surface fat is removed by
placing the things fried on kitchen paper as they
are taken from the kettle. Use your fat first for frying
rissoles, fritters, and vegetables, and never attempt
frying anything but fish in fat after it has been once
used for fish. Fresh fat must now be taken for ris-
soles, and used up for fish. This involves two lots of
frying-fat, which is the most economical plan to
adopt. The fat when not in use should be kept in clean
glazed earthenware jars. Whenever you can use any
exact method never have recourse to any doubtful and
experimental trials.
If we had a thermometer protected by a cage or
basket, and the words Rissoles, Croquets, and so on,
legibly printed on the side opposite the temperature,
and if the mercury never varied more than five
degrees from these points, a child could fry perfectly
in hot fat. If the quantity or nature of the things
in the frying-basket lower the temperature too rapidly,
remove the basket for a time and let the fat recover
its temperature. It will always fall a little as soon as
you begin to fry, especially with potato chips and
all watery substances. As frying properly in fat is of
much importance, and of constant use, no pains
should be spared in thoroughly understanding it
If you attempt to fry at too low a temperature, or
allow the temperature to fall more than five degrees,
the things are not fried but soaked and soddened and
of a dirty white colour. If the temperature is too high
then the thing is charred, burnt, and blackened, but
not fried. We have at our command the power of


Fish.
113
frying in fat with all the exactness of a scientific
experiment. Sprigs of parsley and drops of water will
never give you exactness—the most experienced cook
cannot tell within 10 or 15 degrees by any of these
methods; and guessing is substituted for accuracy. I
want to dignify, as far as I am able, the art of cooking
by making it more scientific.
· FISH.
Turbot, halibut, skate, and soles, if the weather be
favourable, may be kept a day or two without injury,
but all other fish cannot be too fresh. Fish cannot be
kept twenty-four hours even in ice without injury. )
Persons living inland rarely ever have the true flavour of
some fish. Shell-fish, unless quite fresh, are neither
wholesome nor safe ; lobsters and crabs keep longer
by being under-boiled, a practice often resorted to by
fishmongers to the injury of the persons who eat them.
Thin-skinned white fish boiled are the most digestible,
and soft-roed fish (male) are considered the best.
In the selection of fish see that the gills are of a
bright-red colour, the scales fresh-looking, but the
surest test is the judgment of the nose; no very trust-
worthy rules can be given for determining the fresh-
ness of fish, because the world has become so corrupt
that stale fish often have red gills and other deceitful
appearances given to them by artifice. The best way
is to seize every opportunity for examining fish,
especially when fresh caught, this will give you more
exact knowledge than anything in cookery books.
There is a close analogy between the constituents of fish
and meat, but the nutritive value of fish is very inferior;
t. Use The Therm alta


Fish.
115
measured with a jug to know the quantity; add one
ounce and a half of salt to the gallon ; let the water
come gradually to the boil, skim, and simmer till done.
With a slice of salmon or jowl put it into hot or
boiling water with salt; hot water fixes the colour.
Dish up on a napkin, and garnish with fresh parsley.
Sauces are to be used according to taste.
Precautions.—Be careful to remove all the scum,
and, when nearly boiled, watch the salmon, or it is
liable to break.
BROILED SALMON.
Ingredients.
Salmon cutlets.
1 Cut out of the middle of a good salmon cutlets one
inch in thickness. Take some good salad oil and rub
lightly over each side of the cutlet, sprinkle with
pepper and salt, and broil over a clear brisk fire, and
serve with caper or fennel sauce.
Precautions.—Keep a good clear fire. See page 18.
FILLETED SOLES.
Soles and other fish are sometimes filleted, that is,
the flesh is removed from the bones, and the fish is
cooked and served without them. To fillet a sole,
wash it and remove the black skin, scrape or skin the
other side ; lay the sole flat on a board, and with a
sharp kitchen knife make one cut from the head to the
tail, along, and down to the backbone, now hold the
knife obliquely (the ribs forming a guide for the knife),
ease the fillet gently with the left-hand and cut from the
backbone to the fins, and in two cuts the fillet may
be removed; but this requires a little practice to do
1
2


116
Buckmaster's Cookery.
neatly and quickly; one sole gives four fillets. Thick
firm soles are best for filleting. The head, fins, and
bones may be put into a stewpan and simmered for
stock, which is useful in many fish sauces.
BAKED SOLE.
Ingredients.
A sole. Lemon. Stock. Mushrooms.
Eschalots.
Parsley.
Take a large sole, remove the black skin, and scrape
or skin the other side, remove the gills, cut off the
fins, clean it, and wipe it with a clean cloth, make an
incision on each side down the back to the bone;
take an oval gratin pan and spread over it an ounce of
butter, lay on the sole, add a little salt and pepper,
the juice of a lemon, and a gill of stock or water; bake
in an oven fifteen or twenty minutes. Make a sauce
as follows : put into a small stewpan an ounce of butter
and the same weight of flour, stir for two or three
minutes, then add half a pint of water or stock, season
with salt and pepper. After the soles have been in
oven twenty minutes, pour the liquor from the soles
into the sauce, add an ounce and a half of butter and
a good tablespoonful of fine herbs composed of equal
parts of button mushrooms and eschalots, and half
the quantity of parsley all finely minced, these should
have been previously blanched for five minutes and
then added to the sauce, which should now be boiled
up; place the sole on a dish, pour the sauce over, and
serve.
Precautions.-Careful preparation of the sauce and
the blanching of the fine herbs are essential.


Fish.
117
SOLE AU GRATIN.
Ingredients.
Mushrooms. Eschalots. Parsley. Bread raspings.
Clean the sole as already directed, mince finely
four button mushrooms, two eschalots, and a little
parsley in the same proportions as for baked sole.
Take an oval gratin tin, butter it, place half the mix-
ture of fine herbs at the bottom, sprinkle lightly over
their surface the bread raspings, lay the sole on the
bread raspings and cover it with the remainder of the
fine herbs, season with a little pepper and salt, put
on the surface a few pieces of butter, then sprinkle
the top freely with bread raspings; pour by the side
some stock or broth to come up to the fish, but not
over it, and, if you like, a glass of chablis, or other
white wine ; bake for fifteen or twenty minutes, and
serve on the gratin tin.
Precautions. Do not drown the fish in stock or
wine.
BATTER FOR FRYING.
Ingredients.
Flour. Eggs. Oil. Butter.
Batter is often required for fish, meat, fritters, &c.
Take five ounces of flour, make a hole in the centre,
and work it up with a gill of water and a little salt.
Separate the yolks of two eggs (put aside the whites),
and add to the yolks two tablespoonfuls of oil, and
work all into a paste rather thicker than cream; if too
thick add a little more water. Well whisk the whites
of the eggs, and stir into the batter a quarter of an
| hour before it is wanted.


118
Buckmaster's Cookery.
FRIED SOLE.
Ingredients.
Sole. Parsley. Lemon.
Strip off the black skin of a large sole, scrape or
skin the other side, remove the gills, cut off the fins,
wash it, wipe it, and make an incision down each side,
not quite to the back bone, put it in a dish and cover
it with milk, let it remain ten or fifteen minutes, flour
it well on both sides, or brush it over with egg and
bread crumb, dry in a clean cloth (this is necessary
with all fish that have to be broiled or fried); put it
into fat at a temperature of 380°, gradually raising it
to a temperature of 385°. When the sole is of a
golden-brown colour, place it on kitchen-paper, or
better, a clean cloth, sprinkle with salt, put it on a
napkin, garnish with fried parsley, and send it up with
half a lemon. The sole may be fried in a fryingpan,
but a frying-kettle is better.
Precautions.—Let the sole be 'thoroughly covered
with the hot fat.
EGG AND BREAD CRUMB.
Ingredients.
Eggs. Oil. Butter. Bread crumbs.
Take some stale crumb of bread, and lay it on a
cloth. Take the corners of the cloth in one hand, and
break the bread into crumbs with the other. Pass them
through a wire sieve, and dry before the fire, or in an
oven; but be careful not to brown them. They can
be kept in a dry stoppered bottle or jar.
Well beat up in a flat dish three eggs, with a table.


I 20
Buckmaster's Cookery.
bring it to the consistency of cream with hot milk, season
with salt and pepper and a little grated horse-radish;
take up the fillets with a slice and put them into the
sauce, which should just cover them, and simmer for
two minutes; a little chopped parsley may be added.
Precautions.—Take care not to boil the fillets after
they are in the sauce.
PLAIN BOILED SOLE.
Ingredients :
Sole. Lemon. Parsley.
Clean the sole as already directed, and put it into
plenty of cold water with salt, say one ounce to a
quart of water, bring it gently to the boil, put it aside
to simmer from five to ten minutes according to size,
when ready place it in a clean napkin, garnish with
parsley and slices of lemon, and serve with plain
melted butter, or whatever sauce is preferred.
Precautions.—Violent boiling is to be avoided.
BOILED TURBOT.
Ingredients.
Turbot.
A moderate-sized turbot, six or eight pounds is to
be preferred; large turbots are generally tough and
stringy. Soak the fish in cold salt and water for two
hours to remove the slime ; some rub it with a lemon
to make it white, but its utility is doubtful. Place the
turbot on the strainer, and put it into a clean oval
fish-kettle with plenty of cold water and salt; give it
plenty of room, let it come gradually to the boil, skim


Fish.
1 21
and set aside to simmer gently for half an hour.
French cooks use milk and water for cooking a turbot.
Dish it on a hot napkin, the white side uppermost,
garnish with parsley and nasturtium flowers, and serve
with melted butter or shrimp sauce. Brill is cooked
in the same way after soaking and removing the scales.
Precautions. — Very careful boiling and a clean
strainer and kettle are essentials.
Halibut is often sold for turbot, but its flavour is
not so delicate. The halibut is smooth and covered
with oblong scales, which adhere firmly to the body.
The turbot has large blunt tubercles like flattened
warts,
FRIED SMELTS.
Ingredients.
Smelts. Parsley.
Take a dozen smelts and clean them with as little
washing as possible, trim off the fins, dry them tho-
roughly in a cloth, flour them, or brush over with egg
and bread crumb, and fry in hot fat at a temperature
of 380° till they are of a rich golden colour and .
crisp, put them on some kitchen paper, sprinkle with
salt, and garnish with fried parsley.
Precautions. The smelts must be fresh, and evenly
covered with flour or egg and bread crumb.
FRIED WHITING.
Ingredients.
Whiting. Lemon. Parsley.
Clean the fish in salt and water, and dry thoroughly
in a clean cloth, fasten the tail in the mouth, flour or


122'. Buckmaster's Cookery.
brush over with egg and bread-crumb; and fry in hot
fat to a golden colour. Dish on a napkin, and garnish
with fried parsley and a lemon cut in two.
Precautions. The flavour is spoilt unless the fish is
quite fresh.
WHITEBAIT.
Ingredients.
Whitebait. Lemon. Cayenne. Hot fat.
Whitebait should be cooked as soon as possible
after they are caught, or kept in ice. With a skimmer
remove them to a colander to drain (it is better to
avoid as much as possible handling so delicate a fish),
and dry them carefully in a clean cloth, which has
been previously sprinkled rather thickly with dry flour.
Now remove them to a coarse wicker sieve, and gently
shake them about to remove any excess of flour. Put
them into the frying basket and fry at a temperature
of 400° for fifty seconds or one minute. The instant
they are sufficiently fried, which is indicated by their
whitey-brown appearance, remove the whitebait on to
kitchen paper, and place them in a sieve before the
fire. Serve on a hot napkin, with brown bread and
butter and lemon and cayenne.
Precautions.—Whitebait are very delicate, and should
not be bruised or broken by rough handling.
BOILED COD.
Ingredients.
A cod-fish. Parsley.
Put the fish, or a piece of it, into cold water for one
hour, wash it, and place it in a fish-kettle with suffi-


Fish.
123
cient cold water to cover it with plenty of salt. Bring
it gradually to the boil, skim, and simmer till it is
done; drain it, and dish on a hot napkin; garnish
with parsley, and serve with melted butter or oyster
sauce in a sauce boat.
Precautions -Be particular that the fish does not
break in boiling.
SALT COD.
Ingredients.
Salt fish. Potatoes. Lemon.
Soak a piece of salt fish for six hours in tepid water
and afterwards in cold water six hours, changing the
water three or four times.
Take a stewpan or saucepan of sufficient size and
nearly fill with cold water, let it come to the boil,
skim, and simmer for a few minutes, drain it, place it
on a dish, make some plain melted-butter, squeeze in
the juice of a lemon (some prefer egg sauce), pour
over the fish, and garnish with plain boiled potatoes.
Precautions.--Careful soaking of the fish is neces-
sary.
GREY MULLET BROILED.
Ingredients.
Grey mullet. Parsley Lemon.
Remove the gills and scales, and cleanse the inside
of the fish, then wash and wipe it, score it on each
side a dozen times a quarter of an inch deep, lay it
on a dish and sprinkle with a little salt, pour over it
three tablespoonfuls of oil, broil on a moderate fire
on each side for ten or fifteen minutes ; place it on a


124
Buckmaster's Cookery.
dish, and serve with parsley and butter with a little
lemon juice stirred in.
Precautions.—Broiling can only be done properly
over a bright, clear fire.
RED MULLET BAKED.
Ingredients.
Red mullet.
Clean the fish as for grey mullet, score them, and
fold them in white oiled or buttered paper, and bake
them slowly in an oven ; when done, pour the liquor
into a stewpan with an ounce of butter, thicken with
flour, season with salt, a very little cayenne, and
chopped parsley, let it come to the boil, and serve the
sauce in a tureen.
Precautions.—Let the paper be well buttered, as it
keeps the surface of the fish moist.
BROILED MACKEREL.
Ingredients.
Mackerel. Maître d'Hôtel butter.
Cut off the tail and fins, remove the gills and inside,
wipe it and clean it without washing, split the back in
the direction of its length to the bone, put it on a dish,
and season with pepper and salt and two tablespoon-
fuls of oil ; lay the mackerel on a gridiron over a brisk
fire for six minutes on each side, and four minutes on
the open back.
Place a quarter of a pound of maître d'hôtel butter
on the back, and serve on a hot dish.
Precautions.—The butter must be thoroughly melted
by the heat of the fish before serving.


Fish.
125
BROILED MACKEREL (2).
Ingredients.
Mackerel. Parsley. Chives. Lemon.
Clean the fish as already described, and through
the gills fill it with a previously prepared mixture of
fresh butter, finely minced parsley, and chives, or
eschalots, and pepper and salt, all worked together.
Open the back from head to the tail with a sharp
knife, and fill up the cut with the remainder of the
mixture. Well butter a piece of clean paper, wrap up
the fish and put it on the gridiron over a slow fire, or
in the oven. When ready remove the paper, and
squeeze over the fish the juice of a lemon.
Precautions.—The most important thing is the fire:
if not quite clear put the fish in the oven.
BOILED MACKEREL.
Ingredients.
Mackerel.
Thoroughly clean the fish, and place it in a kettle,
cover it with cold water with plenty of salt; bring it
slowly to the boil, skim and simmer till done. Dish
on a hot napkin, and serve with fennel sauce.
Precautions.—The amount of salt should be about
one ounce to a quart of water.
CROQUETTES OF FISH.
Ingredients.
Cold fish. Egg. Anchovy sauce.
Hot lard. Parsley.
Take some of the remnants of boiled turbot, soles,
or any other kind of fish, pull them into small pieces
Milk.


128
Buckmaster's Cookery.
has always been our chief sauce, and has obtained for
us the distinction of a nation with twenty religions
and one sauce, a circumstance, probably, which led
the late Earl of Dudley to speak of one of the Barons
of the Exchequer as “ a good man, sir, a most religious
| man, he had the best melted butter I ever tasted."
PLAIN MELTED BUTTER.
• Suppose we wish to make a pint of melted butter :-
Take three ounces of good butter ; one ounce of four;
a pinch of pepper and salt; half a pint of warm water:
put one ounce of the three ounces of butter and
the one ounce of flour, into a quart stewpan, mix
the butter and flour into a soft paste, add the pepper
and salt and half a pint of warm water. Stir over the
fire with a wooden spoon till the contents boil. If
it should be too thick (which will depend on the
flour, for some flour requires more water), add half a
gill or so of warm water before putting in the re-
mainder of the butter. The sauce should then be
thick enough to coat the spoon. Cut the remaining
two ounces of butter into pieces to accelerate the
melting, take the stewpan off the fire and stir till
the butter is melted. It must not be placed on the
fire again.
The great point in preparing melted butter is this :
-as soon as it has come to the boil to take it off the
fire, and then add the cold butter, which gives it the
flavour. The failure in properly making melted butter
may arise from the flour being in excess, which destroys
the flavour of the butter ; or it may arise from mixing
the whole quantity of butter with the flour at once.


Sauces.
129
If too thin, mix a tablespoonful of flour with half an
ounce of cold butter, take the sauce off the fire and
allow it to cool for a few minutes, add the mixture of
flour and butter and stir while off the fire. When melted,
put the sauce over the fire again till just boiling, then
add a small piece of butter before serving.
The essential condition of success is that the flour
and butter should be of the very best, or good melted
butter is impossible, no matter what recipe is fol-
lowed. The butter, unless good and fresh, gives an
unpleasant flavour to the sauce. Melted butter is
sometimes preferred slightly acid, when a little lemon-
juice is stirred into the sauce before serving.
All plain sauces should have a simple but decided
character, and be served as hot as possible. They
should therefore, never be made until just before
they are required for use. Sauces with liaisons or
creams should be well stirred, and never allowed to
boil after the liaison or cream is added. The same
care must be exercised with lemon-juice, pickles, and
other acid mixtures. For sauces use clean stewpans,
those of enamel or porcelain are the best, and stir
always with a wooden spoon.
MELTED BUTTER.
Ingredients.
Cream. Butter. Lemon.
Place a gallipot in a saucepan of water, and put
into the gallipot one ounce of fresh butter ; when it is
melted, stir in gradually a gill of cream, with a little
salt and a few drops of lemon. Let the water in the


130
Buckmaster's Cookery.
saucepan come gradually to the boiling point, and in
four or five minutes it is ready.
Precautions.—Constant stirring is necessary. This
arrangement is in fact a bain-marie.
FENNEL, PARSLEY, AND TARRAGON SAUCES.
A little fennel blanched for a few minutes in boil-
ing water and finely minced, then stirred into the
butter makes fennel sauce, and so with tarragon or
parsley.
MAYONNAISE SAUCE.
Ingredients.
Egg. Tarragon vinegar. Oil and vinegar.
This sauce is used as a dressing for salad and cold
meat or fowl, it is the foundation of all cold sauces,
and must be well made.
Separate thoroughly the yolk of one egg and put it
into a basin with half a tablespoonful of tarragon
vinegar, one tablespoonful of good vinegar, and a
little salt and pepper. Mix these with a wooden
spoon, then take the oil bottle and place your thumb
over the top and let the oil fall in at short intervals,
drop by drop, and well mix. The great art is to
thoroughly mix the oil before adding more. After
adding about forty or fifty drops of oil you may now
add it, in quantities of a teaspoonful, till you have
used about four ounces altogether, which will make
about half a pint of sauce. Taste it, and add more
vinegar or pepper and salt if necessary. As a rule
this sauce should be well seasoned. If desirable,
slightly rub the basin in which the sauce is mixed


Sauces.
131
with an eschalot or garlic. Some think a finely-minced
eschalot and parsley are agreeable additions to this
sauce.
Precautions.—Thoroughly stir in the oil till the
sauce is of the consistency of cream.
GREEN MAYONNAISE SAUCE.
Ingredients.
Mayonnaise sauce. Chervil. Cress.
Burnet
Tarragon.
Mince finely two or three tablespoonsful of chervil,
garden cress, tarragon, burnet, and any other herbs
you may fancy, mix these together, then stir them into
the sauce. This mixture is called ravigote, if tarragon
vinegar has been used; in preparing the white mayon-
naise sauce no tarragon should be used in the ravigote.
When tarragon is scarce, tarragon vinegar may be used
instead. The two or three tablespoonsful of ravigote
are intended for the quantity of sauce indicated in the
previous recipe.
Precautions. The herbs should be finely minced
and used in equal quantities.
SAUCE REMOULADE.
Ingredients.
Mayonnaise sauce. Capers. Gherkins.
Eschalots.
Anchovies. French mustard.
Mince half an ounce of eschalots, one dessert-
spoonful of capers, and the same quantity of gherkins.
When minced take two anchovies, clean them, and
put them for a minute into hot water, remove their
K 2


132
Buckmaster's Cookery.
heads and backbones and chop them up. Mix them
together with a teaspoonful of French mustard, and stir
into the quantity the Mayonnaise sauce, indicated in
the first recipe.
Precautions. — With all cold sauces the chief thing
is a good mayonnaise sauce.
PIQUANT SAUCE (1).
Ingredients.
Stock. Eschalots. Gherkins. Parsley.
Chop up a good half ounce of eschalots, a table-
spoonful of parsley, and a tablespoonful of gherkins.
Take a clean quart stewpan and put into it one
ounce of butter, four tablespoonsful of vinegar, and
the chopped eschalots, and stir over the fire with a
wooden spoon; the vinegar is sufficiently reduced
when the butter is clear. When the eschalots have
absorbed all the vinegar add one ounce of flour, and
stir four or five minutes, then add a pint of broth or
stock (if unflavoured with vegetables the better), season
with pepper and salt according to the saltness of the
broth, bring it to the boil and continue boiling gently
for ten minutes, and skim. Now add the parsley and
gherkins. Boil up, and skim again if necessary. Any
additional seasoning may now be added and the sauce
is ready.
Precautions. This reducing is necessary to give the
proper sharpness to the sauce and secure a right
mixture of the flour and butter. A brisk boiling is
necessary when anything has to be reduced.


Sauces.
133
PIQUANT SAUCE (2).
Ingradients.
Parsley, Melted butter or stock. Capers.
Gherkin. Worcester sauce.
Eschalots.
Anchovies. Oil.
Vinegar.
Take a small bunch of fresh parsley, wash it and
dry it in a cloth. Remove the stalks and put a table-
spoonful of the leaves into a mortar, the same quan-
tity of capers and dry mustard, the yolks of three
hard-boiled eggs, and half a teaspoonful of Worcester
sauce or ketchup. Bone six anchovies and pass them
through a sieve (purée), add one tablespoonful of
vinegar, two of oil and one finely minced eschalot,
and work all together in the mortar until well mixed.
Then stir the mixture into half a pint of melted
butter, or good beef stock, season with salt and
pepper, and serve hot.
Precautions. ---All the ingredients must be thoroughly
mixed in the mortar.
DUTCH SAUCE.
Ingredients.
Eggs. Fresh butter. White pepper. Vinegar.
When well made this is the first and best of white
sauces. Reduce two tablespoonsful of vinegar to one
tablespoonful in a clean stewpan, with a little salt and
coarsely-ground white pepper (mignonette), Remove
the stewpan from the fire, and add two tablespoonsful
of cold water and the yolks of two eggs. Put the stew-
pan on the fire and stir, but do not boil. Divide four
ounces of sweet fresh butter into six parts. Take the


134
Buckmaster's Cookery.
stewpan off the fire and stir in till melted one part only of
the butter. Place the stewpan again on the fire for about
a minute, constantly stirring. Remove it again from
the fire and add another part of the butter and repeat
in the same way till all the butter has been used.
It will be necessary to add at intervals a tablespoonful
of cold water, to prevent the sauce from thickening.
Season with pepper and salt and serve hot.
Precautions. The yolks of the eggs are to be well
freed from the white, and constant attention is neces-
sary.
MAITRE D'HOTEL BUTTER.
Ingredients.
Parsley. Butter. Lemon.
Take some fresh parsley and wash it in plenty of
water, remove the stalks, and mince it. Then take a
clean cloth and secure the parsley in one corner and
dip it two or three times into the cold water, then
wring out the water. This second washing greatly re-
moves the acrid flavour of the parsley. The parsley is
now ready, and there should be about one ounce. Take
six ounces of fresh butter, put it in a basin, add the
parsley, a little salt and pepper, and a tablespoonful
of lemon-juice. Work all together near the fire till it
comes to the consistency of thick cream, and it is now
ready.
Precautions.—Do not mix too near the fire, or the
butter becomes oily. When well made this butter will
keep for a week.


Sauces.
135
MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE.
Ingredients.
Maître d'Hotel Butter. Plain melted butter.
Take a clean quart stewpan and make a gill of
plain melted butter. Now add a gill of water, and boil
for three minutes with constant stirring. Take off the
fire and add five ounces of Maître d'Hotel butter;
stir till melted and serve hot.
Precautions.—Cleanliness and good maître d'hotel
butter are essential.
HOT MINT SAUCE.
Ingredients.
Mint. Sugar. Vinegar.
Take a clean quart stewpan and reduce half a pint
of vinegar with half an ounce of brown sugar. Add a
pint of water, boil up, simmer for ten minutes, then
add a tablespoonful of young mint finely minced.
Well mix and serve.
Precautions. The large stalks should be removed
from the mint before mincing.
COLD MINT SAUCE.
Ingredients.
Mint. Sugar. Vinegar.
Take three ounces of brown sugar, three table-
spoonfuls of young mint, previously picked and washed
and then finely minced, and half a pint of vinegar,
mix well in a basin, and when the sugar is melted put
the sauce into a tureen, and serve.
Precautions.-Remove the large stalks from the
mint.


136
Buckmaster's Cookery.
BECHAMEL SAUCE (1).
Ingredients.
Veal or fowl. Mushrooms. Onions.
Carrots.
Bouquet garni stock.
If you have no rich white stock, cut up some lean
veal, free from fat, into two inch cubes and put them
into a three-quart stewpan. Add one moderate sized
onion, two and a half inches in diameter, one small
carrot cut into pieces, and six ounces of butter.
Fry the vegetables in the butter for ten minutes, with-
out colouring, then stir in three ounces of flour,
and continue stirring five minutes longer. Add three
pints of stock, one pint of cream, five ounces of
sliced mushrooms, a small bouquet garni, half a tea-
spoonful of salt and a pinch of mignonette pepper
(white pepper). Stir till it comes to the boil, skim
occasionally to remove the fat, and simmer for two
hours. Strain through a tammy sieve into an enamelled
or porcelain stewpan with a gill of cream. Simmer
over the fire till it coats the spoon, strain again
through a tammy sieve into a basin and stir till the
sauce is cold.
Precautions.--This sauce especially requires the
cook's utmost attention.
BECHAMEL SAUCE WITHOUT MEAT (2).
Ingredients.
Onions.
Carrot.
Eschalot.
Bouquet garni.
Milk.
Take an onion three inches in diameter, and cut it
into six or eight pieces, slice a small carrot, and cut


Sauces.
137
up one eschalot, fry these for five minutes in a two-
quart stewpan with four ounces of butter, add one
ounce and a half of flour, and stir for five minutes,
now add three pints of new milk, half a teaspoonful of
salt, a pinch of white pepper, a small bouquet garni,
and stir for twenty minutes, then strain through a
tammy sieve into a basin, and put aside for use.
When required, boil it up again and thicken, if neces-
sary, with butter. If stirred till cold this prevents any
film forming on the surface.
Precautions.—Take care not to brown the vege-
tables or butter.
These two sauces can be put by for use and warmed
up when wanted.
HORSERADISH SAUCE.
Ingredients.
Horseradish. Cream. Pounded loaf sugar.
Boil half a pint of rich cream or new milk, then add
one ounce of finely-grated horseradish, a pinch of
pounded loaf sugar, and a little salt.
Precautions.—The horseradish should be young.
ITALIAN SAUCE.
Ingredients.
Stock. Eschalots. Mushrooms.
Onions. Ham.
Chablis.
Put into a clean quart stewpan half a dozen mush-
rooms, one onion, three eschalots, and a rasher of ham,
all minced finely. Fry these for five minutes to a golden
colour, and then add three gills of stock and a small
bouquet garni. Let the whole come slowly to the boil


138
Buckmaster's Cookery.
and simmer for three-quarters of an hour, then add a
glass of chablis, sauterne, or madeira, and a squeeze
of lemon-juice, and season with pepper and salt. Melt
in another stewpan three-quarters of an ounce of butter
and a teaspoonful of flour, and thoroughly mix. Get
some one to strain the sauce gradually into the second
stewpan while you stir, and the sauce is ready.
Precautions.—The success of this sauce depends on
the constant attention of the cook.
ONION SAUCE (1).
Ingredients.
Onions. Melted butter. Milk.
Peel the onions, and put them for a quarter of an
hour into salt and water, blanch them, and then boil
them in plenty of water or milk, pass them through a
wire sieve, stir the pulp into thin melted butter, boil
up, season with pepper and salt, and serve.
Precautions.—The more delicate flavour is obtained
by boiling the onions in milk.
ONION SAUCE (2).
Ingredients.
Onions.
Cream.
Peel the onions, blanch them, and roughly mince
them, put an ounce of butter into a clean stewpan, then
add a teaspoonful of flour, stir for two minutes, add
the onions, and stir to prevent colouring, now add a
little pounded loaf-sugar, and pepper and salt to taste.
When the onions are sufficiently soft pass them through
a sieve, return the pulp to the stewpan, and bring the


Sauces.
139
sauce to its proper consistency with milk or cream,
continually stirring. Serve hot.
Precautions.--Do not let the sauce boil after adding
the cream.
TOMATO SAUCE,
Ingredients.
Tomatoes. Bouquet garni. Stock.
This sauce is best made with fresh tomatoes. Take
six or eight tomatoes and remove the stalks, then
squeeze out the juice and seeds; take a three-pint
stewpan with a close-fitting lid, put in the tomatoes
and add a gill of water, a little salt and pepper, and
a small bouquet garni ; boil for twenty minutes or half
an hour, with frequent stirring. When soft, pass them
through a wire sieve. Melt half an ounce of butter,
and stir into it a teaspoonful of flour ; stir for two or
three minutes. Take it off the fire, and add in small
portions the purée of tomatoes, constantly stirring ;
add a gill of stock, better if favoured with a rasher of
ham or bacon, and boil for a quarter of an hour.
Should the sauce be too thick, add a little more stock.
If preserved tomatoes are used, begin with them as if
a purée, and proceed as already described, and the
sauce is ready
Precautions.-Almost constant stirring is required.
BREAD SAUCE.
Ingredients.
Bread crumbs. Cream or milk. Eschalot.
Take a clean stewpan and put in six ounces of stale
bread crumbs with one pint of new milk and one
eschalot, boil for ten minutes, and the sauce is ready.


140
Buckmaster's Cookery'.
Precautions.-See that the bread-crumbs are good,
and take care that the sauce does not boil over.
OYSTER SAUCE.
Ingredients.
. Oysters.
Open a dozen oysters, and let them boil for two
minutes in their own liquor, drain them over a colander,
and strain the liquor.
Mix to a smooth paste three-quarters of an ounce
of butter with the same weight of flour, then add the
liquor of the oysters, and make nearly a pint by adding
milk; stir over the fire till it comes to the boil, take it
off the fire and stir in half an ounce of butter till
melted : remove the beards from the oysters, and re-
turn the oysters into the sauce to warm.
Precautions.---The sauce must not boil after the
oysters are added.
MUSHROOM SAUCE (1).
Ingredients.
Mushrooms. Bechamel sauce. Lemon-juice.
Wash and pick a pottle of mushrooms, remove the
gritty part near the stalk, and put them into a basin
of cold water for three or four minutes, then dry them
on a cloth, trim them, and, if you like, whiten them
in a stewpan with a tablespoonful of lemon-juice and
the same quantity of water, mince them, stalks and all,
and put them into a clean quart saucepan with an
ounce of butter; when the mushrooms are nearly done
add half a pint of Bechamel sauce, and simmer for


Sauces.
141
half an hour. Pass the whole through a strainer, and
serve hot.
Precautions.—Good Bechamel sauce and young
mushrooms will be required. .
MUSHROOM SAUCE (2).
Ingredients.
Button mushrooms. Cream.
Take a pint of button mushrooms and prepare them
as directed in the previous recipe, put them into a clean
quart stewpan, with one ounce and a half of butter and
one ounce of flour, mix by stirring well with a wooden
spoon, add the mushrooms, season with a little salt,
add one pint of cream, and boil for ten or fifteen
minutes, stirring.
Precautions.-Stir frequently.
LEMON AND LIVER SAUCE.
Ingredients.
Liver. Lemon. Melted butter.
Wash and score the liver of a fowl or a rabbit, blanch
it for a few minutes, cut half a lemon into small slices,
remove all the white and seeds, take a quarter of the
lemon-rind and mince it and the liver finely, prepare
half a pint of melted butter, add the minced liver and
lemon, and season with a little salt. Let it come
gradually to a good temperature without boiling, and
then serve.
Precautions.—Be sure the livers are fresh and
healthy.


142
Buckmaster's Cookery.
LIVER AND PARSLEY SAUCE.
Ingredients.
Liver. Parsley. Melted butter.
Proceed as in the last recipe by blanching the parsley
and liver, mincing them separately, and stirring the
melted butter.
Precautions. The same as the preceding.
ROUX.
Ingredients.
Flour. Butter.
Melt three ounces of butter, and stir in one ounce
of flour, until it becomes of a light brown colour.
Cover the stewpan, and let it remain for half an hour
on the stove, then add half a pint of boiling water,
season with pepper and salt, and stir gently till well
mixed. Continue the stirring five minutes after it
comes to the boil. Stock, as I have before explained,
is better than water. Roux is used for thickening
sauces and gravies; when wanted white it must not
remain on the fire long enough to brown. The
difference between brown roux and white roux is
simply in the browning of the butter. It can be kept
for some days in a clean earthenware jar in a cool
place.
Precautions.—Great care must be given to the pre-
paration of roux, for if the butter and flour are not
good, or allowed to become too brown, the flavour of
the sauce is strong and acrid.


LECTURE X.
For the fashion of this world passeth away.
What have I learn'd where'er I've been?
From all I've heard, from all I've seen,
What know I more that's worth the knowing?
What have I done that's worth the doing?
What have I sought that I should shun?
What duties have I left undone?
Or into what new follies run ?
THE EDUCATION OF GIRLS.
We live in a time when the atmosphere is clouded
and our brains muddled with schemes for the educa-
tion of women, but none of these schemes, so far as
I know, recognise the fact that when a woman
gets married her whole habit of life and her occu-
pations are changed. She has now to undertake
duties and responsibilities of which as a single woman
she knew nothing. What is there in the sentimentalism
of novels, or the school-teaching of the middle and
working classes, to fit them for these duties and re-
sponsibilities? The education of women for the proper
work of women is about as bad as it can be; they go
is boarding schools and colleges and learn all about


144
Buckmaster's Cookery.
the transit of Venus and the Zanzibar contract, and
often get married without knowing how to boil a
potato; their whole school life has been absorbed in
“ologies” and showy accomplishments, and they
grow up with a contempt for those household duties
which have ever been the soul of domestic happiness.
I am told that in some schools ladies have been
drilled in curtseying to a pair of old velvet breeches
and a red coat stuffed with straw; to step in and out
of mock carriages; and to mount wooden horses,
without ever having occasion to do any of these after
they leave school. What a pity these poor creatures
have to eat every year nearly half a ton of cooked
food. The tyranny of fashion, the hypocrisy of trying
to be thought what we are not, has turned many
a good cook into a poor dressmaker, or a dispenser
of sandwiches and bitter beer, because our pride
attaches a gentility to these occupations. A domes-
tic servant may not know much about spectrum
analysis or the Dutch settlement in Acheen, or the
French language; but if she knows how to make a
good sauce and to boil a potato she is an educated
woman, and will command higher wages than a tele-
graph clerk or a governess, and will make a better wife,
because her knowledge will enable her to turn every-
thing to the best account for her husband and her
children. [In almost every country in Europe ladies
of the middle and upper classes take a pride in cooking
and arranging a dinner, and they are certainly never
ashamed of doing so, and will sometimes voluntarily
explain at table the cause of any little failure]
In several towns in Russia, Germany, France,


The Education of Girls.
145
Switzerland, and Holland there are model kitchens,
some of them partly supported by the State, where
neatness, order, and cleanliness regulate the work ;
shining metal and clean porcelain saucepans ornament
the kitchen shelves; and over a charcoal stove in thirty
minutes a lady will prepare a capital little dinner,
which satisfies the appetite without overloading the
stomach ; this is dining elevated to an art. Educated
cooking is as much a science as chemistry. What
you have to think about and understand is always
associated with something which you have to do,
and this pleasure of thinking and doing, every one
must be conscious of who has worked out with her own
hands the plans which she has thought over and ma- /
tured in her own mind. This exercise of a woman's
faculties is itself an education of the highest order.
You must not understand me as speaking against the ac-
complishments of women. I only wish to speak against
the superficiality and shams which too frequently
pass for education, and which unfit women to be wives
and mothers. Imagine my disgust on a recent occasion,
when a young lady, fresh from college, was handing
round in the drawing-room six elegantly bound books
which she had obtained as prizes at a recent examina-
tion. A soft young man, who I subsequently heard
was a clerk in the city on £120 a year, was paying
his addresses to this young lady. The conversation
was rather slow and vapid. At last something was said
about domestic servants; and now the conversation
brightened : the young man innocently asked the lady
with six prizes how long it took to boil an egg, and
putting on a rather vacant expression she replied,
L


146
Buckmaster's Cookery.
“Really I don't know, I never boiled an egg in my
life. Ma, dear, how many hours does it take to
boil an egg ?" Whether this ignorance was affected
or real it was sufficient to show the tendency of modern
education. The young man would have acted sensibly
if he had taken an affectionate farewell. For what
hope of happiness could there be for a man with an
income of £120 a year united to a woman who did
not know how to boil an egg. It is to my mind of
the first importance that every woman who is to have
the care and direction of a household, whether small
or large, and the expenditure of her husband's money,
should understand how best to lay out his money on
what is wholesome and nourishing ; she should also
know something of the relative value of the substances
commonly used as food, and the principles upon which
that food can be most economically cooked. If the
income be small your knowledge will make your
money go as far again in the purchase of food, for
after all, feeding a family is not so much a matter of
money as it is of knowledge. If on the other hand
you have abundance, remember your duties and re-
sponsibilities are greater and your example more
powerful. It is your duty to give your daughters the
highest culture and accomplishments which education
can confer ; but in their desire for the last new fashion
in bonnets and dogs, remember that no woman is
less accomplished, or refined, or beautiful, because she
knows something about household duties, and can, if
necessary, cook her husband's dinner better than nine-
tenths of the plain cooks. (I regard every lady igno-
rant of these matters as a lady of neglected education.


The Education of Girls.
147
I am sorry for her, because her future must be doubt-1
ful; there is hope for every young lady that can cook,
but there is no hope for the lady that cannot cook.
We have nearly a million of single women over twenty
years of age, and most of them expect or hope to be
married, but scarcely one out of five hundred would
know how to make a basin of mutton-broth. Need
you wonder at young men keeping single, or at married
men dining at eating-houses and clubs. There was a
time in our history when ladies of rank used to wear
white muslin aprons and spend one or two hours
every morning in the kitchen, and with their own
hands prepare the lighter things required for dinner;
but cooks now dispute the right of the mistress to
enter the kitchen. If, on the same principle, land-
owners were not permitted to walk on their farms, or
masters to enter their workshops, society would be in
a state of anarchy, and all responsibility, which is the
first element of good government, would be at an end.
Mistresses are at the mercy of their cooks, and for
the sake of peace many ladies, except the first lady
in the land, never enter their kitchens. How often
has a lady to submit to all sorts of petty annoy-
ances for the sake of a decently cooked dinner. In
three months a lady of intelligence would know how
to cook a dinner better than half the cooks. Mistresses
ought to be what they once were, the superiors and
teachers of their servants. Our indifference and igno-
rance of these matters is a national misfortune. We
have the best and greatest variety of food the world
can produce. Thousands of ships bring to our shore
corn, wine, fruits, and spices, and in our ingratitude
L 2


148
Buckmaster's Cookery.
and ignorance the half is wasted. The young ladies
of our time seem to have lost the idea of enjoying
the simple inexpensive pleasures of their grand-
mothers : and unless they breathe the atmosphere of
continual excitement they are miserable. Gorgeous
carriages, costly jewellery, balls and parties in the
dead of night, the wearisomeness of dress, the
struggle for appearances, the endless anxiety and
labour to no purpose, are not enjoyments which any
one is the better or happier for cultivating. Men are
fortunately not possessed with this devil to the same
extent; it is chiefly in the heart of a woman that the
pomps and vanities of this world find a ready welcome.
No one who has seen fifty years but must be sensible
of the gradual demoralization of the wealthy middle
classes and of their contempt for everything like
household work. It is difficult to suggest a remedy.
The denunciations of the pulpit, the satire of the press,
are all unavailing; but I look chiefly to sensible,
thoughtful women, whose rank and position in society
entitle them to consideration and respect, for a remedy
to these evils. I ask these ladies to stamp our
efforts with their approval; I ask them to take a
personal interest in the practical work of the School.
Our attention is daily called to the great mission
of woman, to the injustice which excludes her
from her rights; but the household mission, which
ought to be the highest mission, is rarely mentioned.
When the wife of every man, rich and poor, has been
taught to cook, to make the best of the food which
God has provided ; when the dirty courts and yards
of our large towns have been cleansed and purified;


The Education of Girls.
149
when the bed of the sick and the suffering has been
smoothed; when the orphan and widow have been
comforted, and our streets cleared of temptations to
sin, the women engaged in such a work will deserve our
purest love and respect rather than the speechifiers on
the intellectual equality and rights of woman. Do not
interpret these remarks as favourable to any social
or political degradation of woman. There are some
duties inseparable from a woman,they have their
origin in the fact of her being a woman which nothing
can alter; and by the faithful performance of these
duties she inherits her rights and responsibilities, and
fulfils in the highest degree the mission assigned to
her by God.
We ought to insist on arrangements for regular in-
struction n cookery in every girls' school. I know
there are difficulties, but an earnest purpose over-
comes everything. In the country, girls often come
two or three miles to school, and bring with them in
a cotton bag or a piece of paper some bread and
cheese or a hard cold dumpling. A very much better
dinner than children usually have could be cooked at
school for twopence or threepence each; and in this
way soups, stews, rice, macaroni, Indian meal, oatmeal,
peameal, beans, lentils, and other foods scarcely known
among the poor, might be introduced with advantage
and their prejudices gradually overcome. Every girls'
school should have a properly arranged kitchen, not
one where the cooking is done by steam and compli-
cated appliances, but one that contains an ordinary
fireplace, so that dinners could be provided daily for
some of the children. In large towns pupil teachers


150
Buckmaster's Cookery.
and the more advanced girls would be instructed at
convenient centres. But how is this knowledge
to be introduced into ladies' schools ? As far as my
experience goes old maids are not the best persons to
keep ladies' schools; disappointed perhaps in early
life they grow cold, rigid, formal, and often unfeeling.
The natural joyousness of youth, the hearty merry
laugh, is at once put down as rude and vulgar. I
knew a school from which a young lady was expelled
for jumping over a stile. The mention of such things
as saucepans and gridirons would no doubt have been
considered as a gross breach of etiquette. Some arrange-
ment might be made in ladies' schools for one or two
to take part every day in the work of the kitchen
under an educated cook, who ought to rank as one of
the teachers ; she might occasionally give lessons on
the chemistry and physiology of food; and in this and
other ways much useful knowledge might be com-
municated at school.
I shall be met with the oft-repeated objection that
there is no time for these things; but how many dreary
hours are occupied over the piano, how large a portion
of time is swallowed up with this accomplishment;
and, when we consider its practical value on the after-
life of a girl, is it worth the time and money bestowed
upon it? I do not say you are not to learn the piano,
but what I do say is, that your whole force of thought
is not to be exhausted on it. It would not take a tithe
of the time to learn how to make a fricassee of chicken
or to fry a pair of soles in hot fat, as it does to learn
a sonata which may be easily forgotten; and besides,
cookery once learnt is never forgotten.


The Education of Girls.
151
Now that public attention has been called to the
subject, mothers perhaps will take more personal in-
terest in the domestic education of their daughters;
for it is chiefly in their own homes that this education
must be encouraged and enforced. Making pastry,
preserving fruit, pickling, making ketchup, cultivating,
gathering, drying, and compounding herbs, are elegant,
healthful occupations. After leaving school the life
of many young ladies becomes most aimless and
vapid, without any useful occupation or purpose ;
valuable hours are wasted on dress and accomplish-
ments, and when the chance of marriage is over, no
condition is more hopeless or helpless than that of a
dependant, well educated lady. Better take to hos-
pitals and workhouses and orphanages, and bestow
on the sick and the suffering therein a little of that
love which, from the want of some higher motive, is
often bestowed on cats and dogs. Young ladies are
often taken from homes where they have enjoyed
every luxury and have had servants to wait on them.
They marry and go perhaps to distant settlements
where no amount of money can secure a female
servant. A lady who had been stationed for some
years in one of our colonies was obliged to do all
the work of the house herself. With her baby tied on
her back, she used to make the beds, cook the
dinner, and for five years lived without a servant :
and her husband said it was the happiest period
of his life. “My mother” (said the lady) “was a sen-
sible woman. After I left school she sent me to
finish in the kitchen ; and, under the direction of the
cook, the meat, fish, vegetables, and poultry were


152
Buckmaster's Cookery.
brought in; and my mother insisted that I should
do everything from beginning to end; and in a few
months I was able to prepare a dinner from first to last.”
On one occasion they had twelve persons in the
house as visitors; the cook met with an accident (they
were some distance from any town), and this young
lady undertook the preparation of the dinner. When
the first bell rang she went up to dress, and in half
an hour sat down to the dinner which her own
hands and head had prepared. This lady belonged
to one of the oldest aristocratic families in this
country, and I have her permission to mention the
circumstance. Now, I ask which is the greater lady,
the one who easily adapts herself to altered circum-
stances and can, when necessary, in a spirit of
generous independence and cheerfulness, cook her
husband's dinner, or the woman who speechifies about
her rights and has never learnt to boil a potato or to
dress a baby. In the arrangements of society and in
the designs of Providence certain social and domestic
influences and duties have always been assigned to
women, and I hope these duties will never be for-
gotten or forsaken. But human nature is full of imper-
fections and weaknesses which often make a large
demand on our charity and forbearance. All the
Greek of Porson and the geometry of Euclid are useless
to a woman if she has not learnt to open her mouth
with wisdom, and to look well to the ways of her own
household, if her servants are not under respectful
authority, and if her table be badly provided and
arranged. She will be wanting in all those valuable
qualities which once made English women distin-


The Education of Girls.
153
guished above the women of every other country;
and until they have learned and practised the duties
and refinements of domestic life, have taught their
young daughters how to cook economically and to
dress neatly, how to be noble and happy, we
have certainly not much to say to heathens and
Hottentots.
In this metropolis there are thousands of noble
women-ladies in the highest and best sense-en-
deavouring to do good to the poor, some of whom have
given up all worldly indulgences and hopes for the bene-
ft of others. I have seen them, on a cold winter's day,
collecting scraps of cast off vegetables at Covent Gar-
den, amid the jeers and scoffs of vulgar well-dressed
people. With these vegetables, and odd pieces often
begged from houses, savoury and wholesome food has
been prepared from materials which would otherwise
have been trodden into mud. In dealing with suffer-
ing and poverty it is sometimes difficult to do good
without necessarily being the cause of evil : " Blessed
is he that feedeth the poor," but still more blessed is
he who teaches the poor to feed themselves. If
those who are brought into frequent contact with
the poor were able to give them some practical
instructions in cooking, such instructions would not
be without its influence for higher and better pur-
poses. I know how feeble words of mine are to alter
the habits and prejudices of society, or promote any
united action for good among those who are sepa-
rated. To work, to hope, to love, and to pray, these
are the things that make men happy. They have
always had the power of doing this, and will have the


154
Buckmaster's Cookery.
power to the end of time, and whatsoever thy hand
findeth to do, do it with all thy might.
The proper management of a household has always
had a close fellowship with the best of virtues. The
boiling of a potato may be dignified by the intelli-
gence and the motive which inspire the doing of it, and
there is no duty imposed on us so menial but may be
done to a high purpose, and therefore ennobled by
doing it.
KEDGEREE.
Ingredients.
Cold boiled fish. Eggs. Rice.
This is a method for using up any kind of cold
boiled fish, and it makes an excellent breakfast or
luncheon dish. Take half a pound of boiled fish,
remove the skin and bone and cut it into pieces each
about the size of a nut. (It is better to pull the fish to
pieces with a fork before it is cold.) If done when
the fish comes from table the previous day, it will be
ready for next morning's breakfast. Wash and boil
three ounces of rice and turn it on a sieve to drain.
Boil for ten minutes two eggs and cut them into half
inch cubes. Take a clean stewpan and melt an ounce
of butter, then add the rice, then the fish, then the
eggs. Season with pepper and salt and a very little
cayenne. Stir with a wooden spoon, and when it is
warmed through turn it on to a dish, shape it and
cover the top with bread raspings and brown only in
the oven.
Precautions.-Constant stirring is necessary till the
mixture is turned on to the dish.


LECTURE XI.
And I will send grass in thy fields for thy cattle, that thou
mayest eat and be full.
Rest yourselves under the tree, and I will fetch bread to com-
fort your hearts.
WHEAT, BREAD, QATS, BARLEY, MACARONI,
PEAS, BEANS, AND LENTILS.
FARINACEOUS foods are characterised by their large
amount of starch, but the proportion of carbon and
nitrogen will give a better idea of the relative value of
different starchy substances commonly used as food :
i lb. of household bread yields 1994 grains of carbon
and 89 grains of nitrogen.
I lb. of oatmeal contains 2800 grains of carbon and
140 grains of nitrogen.
i lb. of pearl barley contains 2660 grains of carbon
and 91 grains of nitrogen.
i lb. of maize contains 2800 grains of carbon and
121 grains of nitrogen.
i lb. of rice contains 2730 grains of carbon and 70
grains of nitrogen.
1 lb. of potatoes contains 770 grains of carbon and
24 grains of nitrogen.
1 lb. of sago and arrowroot contain 2555 grains of
carbon and 13 grains of nitrogen.
!


Parinaceous Poods.
157
an economical food. Fine white flour must be con-
sidered luxurious rather than profitable, but for batter,
pastry, and puddings, which are not to be regarded as
a staple food, it is to be preferred, for no good pastry
can be made with coarse brown flour. This leads to
the consideration of macaroni, which is to the popula-
tion of the south of Europe what bread is to us.
But what is macaroni? As an article of food it is
rather more valuable than bread, because it contains
a larger proportion of gluten. In this country it is
usually introduced as a sort of luxury among the
middle and upper classes; but there is no good reason,
considering its price, why it should not enter largely
into the food of the people. The origin of the word
is involved in some obscurity, nor is it material to our
present purpose. According to some macaroni signi-
fies a mixture, because it was originally made with
oat-meal, barley-meal, or wheat-meal, mixed with cheese,
butter, herbs, spices, and other ingredients. The meal
of any of the cereals yields a paste from which the
macaroni can be manufactured. The hard, red Italian
wheat, is generally used; it was imported into Italy
about four centuries ago from the neighbourhood of
the Black Sea. The best macaroni of Naples is made
from this wheat. Since that time red wheat has been
largely cultivated in Apulia and Sicily and on the shores
of the Adriatic. The red colour of the grain gives a
brownish colour to the macaroni; and here let me
remark that white macaroni is a mistake, it is not the
product of an honest manufacture.
The basis of macaroni is a paste or dough made
from wheat-meal. The first process is to wash the


158
Buckmaster's Cookery.
grain, it is then ground like wheat in an ordinary mill.
The moisture adhering to the surface, and the heat
produced by grinding make the meal tough and
sticky. After grinding it is dressed by being sifted
through sieves of different degrees of fineness; this
separates the husks or bran and some of the coarser
portions of the grain, and the final result is pure semo-
lina, which is only another name for wheat flour; it is
mixed with water and worked with the hands into a stiff
paste, which is now introduced into a large wooden
trough or pan, a heavy marble wheel moving vertically
in a circle kneads the dough; this process continues
for about an hour. The dough is, however, more
frequently kneaded with the hands; it is then removed
in quantities of about one hundred weight into a
vertical cylinder, in which a heavy screw piston works.
The perforations at the bottom of the cylinder deter-
mine the shape of the macaroni ; when the circular
holes are very small we have vermicelli. The shape
depends entirely on the perforations through which
the dough is forced by the piston. It is then taken
out to dry gradually, first at a temperature of about
65°, then 70° then 75, and in a few days—the time
depends on the temperature and dryness of the atmo-
sphere, the macaroni is ready for use.
Macaroni is the bread of the Italian workman, and in
all ages a deep significance has been attached to bread.
So universal is the use of bread that in one form or
another it is made to express the general food by
which the life of man is sustained and nourished. Its
scarcity has in all ages been regarded as a calamity.
"ts utility may be gathered from the following :-“Rest


Farinaceous Foods.
159
yourselves under the tree, and I will fetch bread to
comfort your hearts;" and four thousand years ago we
know that the father of the faithful hastened into the
tent to Sarah the princess, and said: “Make ready
quickly three measures of meal, knead it, and make
cakes upon the hearth.” It was not, we see, beneath
the dignity of Sarah to kindle a fire on the hearth
and to set the dough which her own hands had
kneaded : nor was it beneath the dignity of Abraham,
the friend of God, to stand by his guests under the
tree while they did eat the bread which Sarah had
prepared.
Peas, beans, lentils or small beans, are the most nutri-
tive of all vegetable substances, and by careful cooking
they can be made a valuable addition to our ordinary
food. They contain nearly as much carbon (heat-giving
food), as wheat, and more than double the amount of
nitrogen (flesh-forming food), and can be purchased,
therefore, for about one penny per pound; they are,
therefore, a very economic food. The husks are indi-
gestible and should be removed before cooking, or by
being made into purées when the husks are left on the
sieve. The Pyramids were built, we are informed, by
men who lived on lentils, garlic, and water. Lentils,
peas, and beans are not so much used in England as
on the continent, but there is no reason except the
prejudices and ignorance of persons why they should
not enter more largely into the food of the labouring
classes. By a little careful cooking their raw, uninviting
flavour may be removed without impairing their nutri-
tive value, and this is one of the problems for the
cookery school to solve. The Revalenta Arabica of


160
Buckmaster's Cookery.
Du Barry is chiefly lentil flour. Esau sold his birth-
right for a mess of red lentil pottage ; and Pliny says
lentils are a good food, and prefer a red soil. In the east
and the south of Europe lentils, stewed with oil and
garlic, have from the earliest time been much used
for food. A dish served to persons of distinction in
the time of Pharaoh was composed of lentils. Perhaps
the best testimony to the value of this kind of food on
health is that given by Daniel, who asked for pulse to
eat (a general term for seeds which grow in pods) and
for water to drink, instead of the meat and the wine
from the table of Nebuchadnezzar, the king of
Babylon; and we are told that after ten days the
countenances of Daniel and his companions “ap-
peared fairer and fatter in flesh than all the children
which did eat the portion of the king's meat.”
TO BOIL MACARONI.
There are several kinds of macaroni, but whatever
the name or kind it is all manufactured from the same
raw material or paste, and whatever dish you wish to
prepare the cooking must always be the same. It
should never be soaked in water before boiling. The
proper way is to break it into convenient lengths,
wipe it with a clean cloth, and plunge it into plenty of
boiling water with plenty of salt; some boil an onion
with it to take off the raw flavour. The length of
time it will take to cook will be from twelve to twenty-
five minutes, according to its age; newly prepared
macaroni does not take more than ten or fifteen
minutes. Keep it boiling, try it now and then with
the thumb and finger, and as soon as it yields easily


Paste.
161
immediately stop the boiling by adding a pint of cold
water which should be in readiness; then drain over a
colander, and the macaroni is ready.
MACARONI WITH CHEESE AND BUTTER.
Ingredients.
Macaroni. Cheese. Butter.
Boil half a pound of the best macaroni as already
described, melt two ounces and a half of butter to a
light brown colour, then take a deep gratin tin and
lightly cover with some of the melted butter, arrange
on the butter a uniform layer of macaroni, then
sprinkle with grated cheese, either Parmesan or Gruyere
is the best, and pepper and salt, and if you like just a
dash of cayenne instead of the pepper, then a layer of
butter, about half of what is left, then another layer
of macaroni, then grated cheese, and finish by pouring
over the surface the remainder of the butter, and put
it before a brisk fire or in the oven, and when the top
is of a golden brown colour serve on the same dish.
Precautions.—Have your grated cheese and butter
ready.
PUFF PASTE.
Ingredients.
Flour.
Butter.
This paste cannot be made with certainty in summer
time without a refrigerator, because the butter is liable
to become oily. Wash your hands, using a nail brush,
and place on a clean paste-board or marble slab one
pound of fine sifted flour, make a hollow in the centre
of it, then add half a teaspoonful of salt and about half


162
Buckmaster's Cookery.
a pint of water. Mix the flour and water gradually, and
when about half mixed sprinkle the paste with a little
more water so as to collect all the flour. Work the paste
lightly till it ceases to stick either to the board or the
fingers. Take three-quarters of a pound of butter,
work it in a clean cloth to remove the water. Have
the paste about one inch in thickness, place the butter
in the centre of it and fold over the four sides of the
paste so as to inclose the butter in a square. The
paste will now be from two to three inches in thick-
ness. Put it aside for five minutes in a cold place or a
refrigerator. Then roll the paste to a length of three
feet, fold over from one end one-third of this length
and now fold over the other end. There are now
three thicknesses of paste of equal lengths, and this
folding into three is called one turn. Put the paste
aside for ten minutes, then give it two turns, beginning
at right angles to the first rolling, then in the same
direction as the first rolling. Put it aside for another
ten minutes, then give it two more turns, in all five or
six turns. Gather the paste into a lump and finish by
rolling to the required thickness, about a quarter of an
inch,
SHORT PASTE.
Ingredients.
Flour. Butter. Loaf-sugar. Salt.
Wash your hands and place on a clean paste-board
or marble slab one pound of sifted flour, make a hole
in the centre and add two tablespoonfuls of pounded
loaf-sugar, and half, or better three-quarters, of a
pound of butter, previously freed from water. Mix
radually with half a pint of water. Work thoroughly


but
--
-
Maria
-


162
Buckmaster's Cookery.
a pint of water. Mix the flour and water gradually, and
when about half mixed sprinkle the paste with a little
more water so as to collect all the flour. Work the paste
lightly till it ceases to stick either to the board or the
fingers. Take three-quarters of a pound of butter,
work it in a clean cloth to remove the water. Have
the paste about one inch in thickness, place the butter
in the centre of it and fold over the four sides of the
paste so as to inclose the butter in a square. The
paste will now be from two to three inches in thick-
ness. Put it aside for five minutes in a cold place or a
refrigerator. Then roll the paste to a length of three
feet, fold over from one end one-third of this length
and now fold over the other end. There are now
three thicknesses of paste of equal lengths, and this
folding into three is called one turn. Put the paste
aside for ten minutes, then give it two turns, beginning
at right angles to the first rolling, then in the same
direction as the first rolling. Put it aside for another
ten minutes, then give it two more turns, in all five or
six turns. Gather the paste into a lump and finish by
rolling to the required thickness, about a quarter of an
inch.
SHORT PASTE.
Ingredients.
Flour. Butter. Loaf-sugar. Salt.
Wash your hands and place on a clean paste-board
or marble slab one pound of sifted flour, make a hole
in the centre and add two tablespoonfuls of pounded
loaf-sugar, and half, or better three-quarters, of a
pound of butter, previously freed from water. Mix
gradually with half a pint of water. Work thoroughly


Puddings.
163
but lightly with the hands. Roll it into a smooth
lump, and, if you have time, it will be the better
if put aside for one hour. Then roll it out two or
three times, folding over each time, and the paste is
ready. If fresh butter has been used, a small pinch
of salt may be added.
SUET CRUST.
Ingredients.
Flour. Suet.
To every pound of four allow five or six ounces of
beef suet. Free the suet from skin and mince it
finely, then rub it well into the flour with a pinch of
salt; work the whole to a smooth paste with half a
pint of water, roll it out, and it is ready. This crust
is quite rich enough for most purposes ; but when a
better one is desired, use from half to three-quarters
of a pound of suet to every pound of flour. For rich
crusts pound the suet in a mortar, with a small quan-
tity of sweet butter. It should then be laid on the
paste in small pieces, the same as for puff crust, and
will be found exceedingly good for hot tarts. Five
ounces of suet to every pound of flour will make a
good crust, and even a quarter of a pound will answer
very well where the crust is wanted very plain.'
SUET PUDDING.
Put a pound of sifted flour in a basin with half a
pound of beef suet, finely chopped ; add two eggs,
with a pinch of salt and a quarter of a pint of water;
beat well together with a wooden spoon, making a
rather thick batter; flour a pudding-cloth, and lay it
M 2


Puddings.
165
ROLY-POLY PUDDING.
Ingredients.
Flour. Suet. Jam.
Make a nice light suet crust and roll it out to the
thickness of about half an inch. Spread jam, or
currants and treacle, equally over it, leaving a small
margin of paste without any treacle. Roll it up, fasten
the ends securely, and tie it in a floured cloth; then
put the pudding into boiling water and boil for two
or three hours.
Precautions. — Fresh suet and a light crust are
necessary.
A TREACLE PUDDING.
. Ingredients.
Treacle. Suet. Milk.
Lemon.
Flour.
Take a quarter of a pound of suet, half a pound of
flour, half a pound of treacle, a teaspoonful of pounded
loaf-sugar, and the juice of half a lemon, mix all
together in a large basin, with sufficient milk to form
a thick batter. Tie it up in a floured cloth with plenty
of room to swell, and boil for three hours.
Precautions. It is necessary that the pudding should
be thoroughly boiled.
APPLE PUDDING.
Ingredients.
Flour. Suet. Apples. Lemon.
Take a basin, butter it, and line it with a suet crust;
pare, core, and cut the apples into pieces and fill the


166
Buckmaster's Cookery.
basin with them, with sugar according to taste ; add one
small teaspoonful of finely minced lemon-peel, one
tablespoonful of lemon juice, and cover with crust;
close the edges well together, flour the cloth, and
tie it securely over the pudding, and put it into plenty
of boiling water. Let it boil from one and a half to
two and a half hours, according to the size, then turn
it out of the basin and send to table quickly. Apple
pudding does not suffer by being boiled an extra
hour, if care be taken to keep it well covered with the
water all the time.
Precautions.—The water must be kept constantly
boiling, and if more is added let it be boiling water.
BAKED BATTER PUDDING.
Ingredients.
Eggs. Milk. Flour.
Take six ounces of fine flour, three eggs, and a pinch
of salt; add by degrees as much milk as will when
well beaten make it the consistence of thick cream ;
pour into a pudding-dish, and bake three-quarters of
an hour; or it may be boiled in a basin, or tied up in
a cloth. It will require two hours' boiling.
Precautions.—The milk should be added gradually.
YORKSHIRE PUDDING.
Ingredients.
Eggs. Flour. Milk.
Use for every egg as much flour as a tablespoon
will carry, and a small pinch of salt. Whisk the eggs
vell, strain and mix them gradually with the flour,
en pour in by degrees as much new milk as will





166
Buckmaster's Cookery.
basin with them, with sugar according to taste; add one
small teaspoonful of finely minced lemon-peel, one
tablespoonful of lemon juice, and cover with crust;
close the edges well together, flour the cloth, and
tie it securely over the pudding, and put it into plenty
of boiling water. Let it boil from one and a half to
two and a half hours, according to the size, then turn
it out of the basin and send to table quickly. Apple
pudding does not suffer by being boiled an extra
hour, if care be taken to keep it well covered with the
water all the time.
Precautions.—The water must be kept constantly
boiling, and if more is added let it be boiling water.
BAKED BATTER PUDDING.
Ingredients.
Eggs. Milk. Flour.
Take six ounces of fine flour, three eggs, and a pinch
of salt; add by degrees as much, milk as will when
well beaten make it the consistence of thick cream ;
pour into a pudding-dish, and bake three-quarters of
an hour; or it may be boiled in a basin, or tied up in
a cloth. It will require two hours' boiling.
Precautions.—The milk should be added gradually.
YORKSHIRE PUDDING.
Ingredients.
Eggs. Flour. Milk.
Use for every egg as much flour as a tablespoon
will carry, and a small pinch of salt. Whisk the eggs
well, strain and mix them gradually with the flour,
then pour in by degrees as much new milk as will
ļ


Puddings.
167
reduce the batter to the consistence of rather thin
cream. The tin or pan which is to receive the pudding
must have been placed for some time previously under a
joint which has been put down to roast ; one of beef is
usually preferred. Beat the batter briskly and lightly
the instant before it is poured into the pan, watch it
carefully that it may not burn, and let the edges have
an equal share of the fire. When the pudding is quite
firm in every part and well coloured on the surface,
turn it to brown on the under side. This is best accom-
plished by first dividing it into quarters. In Yorkshire
it is made much thinner than in the South, roasted
generally before an enormous fire, and not turned at all:
currants are sometimes added to it. This pudding
should be quite an inch thick when it is browned on
both sides, but only half the thickness when roasted in
the Yorkshire manner.
Precautions.—Be careful in mixing the batter, which
should be rather more liquid than for a boiled
pudding
STEAK PUDDING.
Ingredients.
Rump or beef steak. Oysters.
Take a pound of flour and half a pound of beef
suet very finely chopped, and mix together ; make a
hole in the middle, into which put a teaspoonful of
salt and enough water to form a stiffish paste; mix it
well together, using a little more flour to dry it and
prevent its sticking; then lightly butter the interior of
a round-bottomed pudding basin, roll out two-thirds
of the paste to half an inch in thickness, with which
line the basin; have ready cut into slices, about the


168
Buckmaster's Cookery.
size of the palm of the hand and a quarter of an inch
in thickness, two pounds of a rump or beefsteak with
a little of the fat included ; lay the pieces upon a
dish, season with two teaspoonfuls of salt and one oi
black pepper, sprinkle a little flour over, move them
about a little until each piece is well covered with
flour and seasoning ; then lay them within the
paste, also putting in whatever seasoning may
remain upon the dish ; a dozen oysters, blanched
and with beards removed, is an excellent addition;
pour a gill of water over, moisten the edges of the
paste, then roll out the remainder of the paste to
form a lid, which place over, pressing it down with
the thumb; tie the basin in a pudding-cloth, and put
it into a saucepan containing about a gallon of boiling
water, and keep continually boiling for nearly two
hours, adding a little more boiling water occasionally
to keep up the quantity; then take it up, untie the
cloth, run a sharp pointed skewer into the pudding,
and if the meat feels tender it is done (if not it will
require more boiling); turn it over upon your dish,
lift the basin carefully from it, and serve.
Precautions.—The steak must be tender, or made
so with a kreatone (see page 76), the pudding well
boiled, and the basin not too full.
PIGEON PIE.
Ingredients.
Pigeons. Eggs. Steak. Puff paste.
Mushrooms.
Stock. Eschalot.
Parsley.
Prepare three or four house pigeons and take half a
pound of tender beefsteak, cut into convenient pieces,





170
Buckmaster's Cookery.
Precautions.-The giblets must be fresh and well
stewed.
SQUAB PIE.
Ingredients.
Mutton cutlets. Onions. Apples.
Trim part of the fat off some mutton cutlets, and
season them with pepper and salt, place them in a
pie-dish, and cover with a layer of sliced apples
sprinkled with sugar and chopped onions, previously
blanched; if the pie is large, arrange another layer of
cutlets, and again cover with onions and apples, then
cover with a good suet crust and bake. When done,
pour out all the gravy at the side, remove the fat, and
add a spoonful of mushroom-ketchup to the liquor,
and return it to the pie.
Precautions.-The fat must be well removed from
the gravy.
RUMPSTEAK PIE.
Ingredients.
Rump-steak. Eschalots. Ketchup.
Stock.
Oysters. Paste.
Take three pounds of tender rump steak, cut it into
pieces half the size of your hand, trim off all the skin,
the sinews, and every part which cannot be eaten, and
beat the steak with a chopper or a kreatone. Chop
very finely half-a-dozen eschalots, and mix them with
half an ounce of pepper and salt, strew some of the
mixture at the bottom of the dish, then a layer of
steak, then some more of the mixture, and so on till
the dish is full ; add half a gill of mushroom-ketchup
and the same quantity of rich stock; cover it with a


Pies.
171
good paste, and bake it two hours. Large oysters,
blanched, bearded, and laid alternately with the steak,
is a great improvement, and the liquor in which they
were blanched, when reduced, may be used instead of
the ketchup or stock.
Precautions. The steak must be tender or made
so by beating
VEAL AND HAM PIE (1.)
Ingredients.
Veal. Boiled ham. Bacon.
Spices.
Sweet herbs.
Take a pound of boiled ham and three pounds of
lean veal, or veal cutlets, and put aside three-quarters
of a pound of the veal. This will leave two pounds
and a quarter, which should be larded with fat bacon;
remove all the skin and gristle and put with the smaller
quantity of veal.
PREPARE A FORCEMEAT.
Remove the rind, gristle, bone, and brown
parts from three-quarters of a pound of fat bacon,
take the three-quarters of a pound of veal previously
set aside, with any trimmings, mince them very finely,
and add a good dessert-spoonful of spiced salt (see
page 27). Work all these well together in a mortar
till it is of a rather stiff paste, and put it aside in a
basin.
Make a short paste and line the inside of a plain
oval pie mould. Now arrange a layer of the force-
meat on the paste at the bottom of the mould ;
use about one-fourth. Then a layer of rashers of


Pies.
173
hard boiled eggs and cut them into dice; if pre-
ferred use only the yolks. Now arrange the meat, a
layer of veal, then ham, and so on, finishing with ham
mingled with the egg (some use a little grated lemon-
peel, others add oysters, sweetbreads, mushrooms,
&c.). The pie may be made rich and savoury in a
dozen ways, according to taste. Finish the pie and
strain through the hole at the top all but a wine-
glassful of the gravy; cover the hole with an orna-
mental piece of paste and bake. When ready remove
the ornament at the top, make the remainder of the
gravy very hot and strain it in, cover the hole again
and serve.
Precautions.--In meat pies it is essential the meat
should be tender and free from skin and gristle.
RISSOLES. V
Ingredients.
Minced meat. Puff paste. Hot fat.
Take the trimmings of puff paste; roll the paste
out to the thickness of a penny piece; place small
balls of meat (the same as those prepared for cro-
quets, page 107), and put them at distances of two
inches from each other; moisten the paste round
these balls of meat with a brush dipped in water; fold
the flap of the front part of the paste over the balls,
just as you would fold a sheet of paper lengthwise ;
press all round them with the edge of the thumb; cut
them out with a fluted round tin cutter, and place
them on a dish sprinkled with flour : having cut out'
a sufficient number, fry them in hot fat, at 385°, and
serve up with fried parsley on a napkin.


Cakes.
175
flavouring you prefer; a little quince is a great improve-
ment. Keep adding the apples till the dish is full and
well heaped up in the centre. Cover with puff paste and
decorate the top. Cream is a good addition to apple pie.
Precautions. In baking pies and tarts a light crust
is essential.
PLAIN CAKE.
Ingredients.
Paste. Eggs. Dripping. Currants.
Take half a quartern of common paste, four eggs, a
quarter of a pound of sugar, a quarter of a pound of
butter (or dripping), a quarter of a pound of currants,
carefully washed and dried, and a little salt. Break
the paste lightly in a basin, put in the sugar, the
butter, and two eggs, thoroughly mix the whole toge-
ther, then add the other two eggs, one at a time, work
the mixture well, and, lastly, work in the currants.
Fill a plain mould, previously buttered, with the mix-
ture, and set it in a warm place to rise. As soon as it
has risen put it into a moderate oven to bake to a
brown colour.
Precautions.—The chief thing is to carefully mix the
ingredients.
SEED CAKE.
Ingredients.
Sugar. Ginger. Yeast. Nutmeg.
Milk, Carraway seeds.
Allspice.
Mix a half pound of pounded loaf-sugar with two
pounds of flour in a large bowl or pan. Make a hole
in the centre, and pour into it a half pint of lukewarm
milk and two spoonfuls of yeast. Draw a little of the



178
Buck
fire for five minutes
whites of four oft
stirring quickly as it
into the saucepan, a
a gentle fire till it
through a fine sieve
Precautions. The
too strongly, and ne
small lumps on the
mencement of boilii
ORANGE
Eggs. Loaf-
Beat up, as for
eggs, with four oun
one pint and a hal
allowed to cool, th
orange, beat all up
pie-dish, and put into
safer way is to put
into a tin dish, with
of the way up the d
put it into a modera
if at the end of this
it remain till it is so
pudding powdered los
Precautions.---The
but not too much be
Prelu without putting it int
but not he dish containing the
without pu
fponf br.
of soff



Tomato Salad
ETTUCE SALAD
Ingredients
gon. Eggs. O s
inegar. Cress
h two lettuces, dry thiem tiragnir
eak the leaves or cuttfiem with a
onvenient pieces, put tfie yaks af
ggs into a basin mot niet more
minutes or the yaiks will be dars
teaspoonful of dry musiant, pepper
and one tablespoontui of mi; works
a smooth paste and atd gradually
uls of oil and two of vinegar, when
insistency of cream add mo or fires
, and one small schalor finely min.
ites of the two egess cut into jafnch
le lettuce and a small liandful of garden
the sauce is thoroughly mixet with
The salad is ready
See that you have young tender
careful to mix the sauce thorougniy
che vegetables.
TOMATO SALAD.
Ingredients
Oil. Vinegar. Testard. Basel.
matoes, but not too ripe to liandle cut
s and remove all the seets, rub a disti
Id lay them in a mixture of gii ad vinegar
rtion of two of oil to one of vinegar;
er and salt over them according to taste
ves of fresh basil finely minced. Let
s
have aess, mot
cel


178
Buckmaster's Cookery.
fire for five minutes ; beat up eight eggs, leaving out the
whites of four of them, add the milk to the eggs,
stirring quickly as it is poured in. Strain the custard
into the saucepan, and stir with a wooden spoon over
a gentle fire till it begins to thicken; then strain
through a fine sieve into a basin.
Precautions. The custard should not be flavoured
too strongly, and never cease stirring. Watch for the
small lumps on the side of the pan (this is the com-
mencement of boiling), and remove immediately.
ORANGE CUSTARD PUDDING.
Ingredients.
Eggs. Loaf-sugar. Orange-pcel. Milk.
Beat up, as for an omelette (page 186), four
eggs, with four ounces of powdered loaf-sugar, and
one pint and a half of milk previously boiled and
allowed to cool, then add the grated peel of one
orange, beat all up together, strain into a shallow
pie-dish, and put into a moderate oven to bake. The
safer way is to put the dish containing the custard
into a tin dish, with boiling water coming two-thirds
of the way up the dish containing the custard, then
put it into a moderate oven for twenty minutes, and
if at the end of this time it is not sufficiently firm, let
it remain till it is so. When cold, sprinkle over the
pudding powdered loaf-sugar.
Precautions.--The materials should be well mixed,
but not too much beaten; if the custard is baked
without putting it into another dish with water, then
the dish containing the custard should be shallow.


Puddings.
179
LEMON CUSTARD PUDDING.
Prepare in the same way, using lemon-peel instead
of orange.
BAIN-MARIE PUDDING.
Ingredients.
New milk. Pounded loaf-sugar. Eggs.
Take a quart of new milk, and add six ounces of
pounded loaf-sugar. Put the sweetened milk into a
clean stewpan, and reduce to one pint. When re-
duced, put aside one gill for the sauce. When the
milk is nearly cold, mix gradually the yolks of five
eggs and the whites of three. Strain into a mould,
and steam it for half-an-hour in a stewpan with boiling
water, taking care the water does not enter the mould.
Take it out and let it stand for a few minutes before
turning out. Put the gill of milk into a stewpan, add
the juice of any delicate fruit, let it come to the boil,
stir in a little cream, and pour over the pudding.
Precautions.—The careful preparation of the sauce
is most important.
MARMALADE PUDDING.
Ingredients.
Suet. Bread. Marmalade.
Eggs.
Sugar.
Take four ounces of suet chopped finely, four ounces
of grated bread crumbs, four ounces of moist sugar,
four ounces of marmalade, mix these ingredients well
together with three eggs, allow the mixture to stand
for an hour. Butter an earthenware mould, put in the
mixture, and lay a buttered paper on the top, tie it
N
2


180
Buckmaster's Cookery.
over with a cloth, and boil for two hours. When
turned out, sprinkle it over with powdered loaf-sugar.
Precautions.—Do not let the water come over the
top of mould
LEMON PUDDING.
Ingredients.
Lemons. Sugar. Short paste.
Take two fresh lemons and three ounces of moist
sugar, grate the rind off the lemons into a basin
with the sugar, squeeze all the juice out, and mix
together. Line a shallow tin with short paste, about
a quarter of an inch in thickness, then spread over it
some of the mixture, then another layer of paste,
then some more of the mixture, and a thin layer of
paste to cover; bake in a quick oven, and serve hot.
Precautions.—Be very careful that the lemons are
fresh, and have a clear good rind.
BAKED RICE PUDDING.
Ingredients.
Rice.
Eggs.
Milk.
Nutmeg.
Sugar.
Wash in two or three waters four heaped table-
spoonfuls of rice, and boil it in a pint and a half of
new milk for half-an-hour, stir in two tablespoonfuls
of pounded loaf-sugar, and flavour with anything
you like, let it get cold, then add two well-beaten eggs,
butter a pie-dish, put in the pudding, grate a little
nutmeg over the top, and bake in a moderate oven for
half-an-hour.
Precautions. The pudding should be baked quickly.


Apple and Rice Meringue.
181
RICE SOUFFLE.
Ingredients.
Milk Pounded loaf-sugar. Orange-flower water.
Eggs. Rice.
Boil in a quart of milk six tablespoonfuls of rice
with two tablespoonfuls of orange-flower water and
six ounces of pounded loaf-sugar. Take six fresh eggs
and separate the yolks from the whites ; stir in one
yolk, then another, till they are all used, and three
ounces of butter in parts of one ounce each ; stir with
a wooden spoon so as to thoroughly mix the ingre-
dients, and continue stirring till the rice is tender
and sufficiently thickened. Well whisk the whites of
the eggs till they are very stiff; if these are insufficiently
beaten the souffle will never rise. Take the stewpan
aside, and let the contents cool a little, then add the
whites and mix them quickly with the rice. Have ready
a warm tin or souffle-dish slightly buttered, pour in the
souffle mixture, sprinkle with pounded loaf-sugar,
and put it into a rather brisk oven for seven or ten
minutes; a straw run through will indicate when it is
sufficiently baked. Serve very hot with a napkin round
the tin.
Precautions.-A clean stewpan, the proper whisking
of the eggs, and a good oven, are all necessary to
success.
APPLE AND RICE MERINGUE.
Ingredients.
Rice. Cloves. Cinnamon. Lemon.
Eggs. Sugar. Milk. Apples.
Peel six apples, core them, cut them in pieces, and
place them in a stewpan with half-a pint of water, four


182
Buckmaster's Cookery.
ounces of loaf-sugar, a few cloves, and a little cinna-
mon, and let them boil gently till they become quite
soft, remove the apples, and let the syrup boil away
till it is reduced to three tablespoonfuls, then strain
it over the apples. Boil half a pound of rice, drain off
the water, and add one pint of milk, four ounces of
pounded loaf-sugar, and the thin rind of a lemon.
When the rice has absorbed all the milk, let it get cold,
then remove the lemon-rind and work into the rice the
yolks of three or four eggs. Put the whites aside in a
basin to whip up. Then make a shallow wall of rice
round the dish in which it is to be served, place the
apples in the centre, and cover the whole with the
whites of the eggs beaten up with a tablespoonful of
powdered lump-sugar, into a stiff froth, neatly plaster
over the whole surface; sprinkle powdered sugar over
and bake about fifteen minutes till the surface is nicely
browned. Gooseberries or other fruit may be substi-
tuted for apples.
Precautions.-Use the best rice, and spread the
whites of the eggs neatly over the surface.
APPLE CHARLOTTE.
Ingredients.
Apples. Bread. Sugar Butter.
Peel fifteen Ribston or Blenheim pippins, slice them,
remove the cores, and put them for ten minutes into
cold water, to which has been added the juice of
half a lemon. Then put them in a clean stewpan
over a moderate fire with half a pound of loaf-sugar
and a little cinnamon ; cover the stewpan and occa-
sionally shake it and stir the apples. When quite soft


Charlotte Russe.
183
and pulpy pass them through a tammy. Cut the
crumb of some stale bread into slices of about a
quarter of an inch in thickness, cut out a centre-
piece to cover the bottom of a mould, then cut
some heart-shaped, or other fancy forms, and dip
each of them on one side in melted butter as they
are wanted, beginning with the large piece, which
place at the bottom of the mould, and arrange
the heart-shaped pieces round it, overlapping one
another, and with the points resting on the piece
at the bottom. Cut the remainder of the slices of
bread into strips one and a half inch wide, and of
the height of the mould ; dip them in butter, and
stand them all round the mould, also overlapping
one another like feather-edged boarding ; fill the centre
with the cooked apples, and put the charlotte in the
oven until the bread is well coloured. Turn the
charlotte out of the mould on to a dish, glaze it over
with some boiled apricot jam, and serve.
Precautions.--Every part of the mould must be well
covered with bread and butter or the charlotte will
not turn out.
CHARLOTTE RUSSE.
Ingredients.
Apples. Cinnamon. Butter.
Red currant jelly.
Finger biscuits.
Peel and core twelve large pippins and cook them
as just described for apple charlotte. Melt a little
sweet butter, and well cover the inside of the mould,
using a brush. Line the mould with finger biscuits, and
fill it up with the apples. Make a hole in the centre ;


184
Buckmaster's Cookery.
this is best done by standing a clean glass bottle in
the mould, remove the bottle and fill up with red
currant jelly or apricot jam. Cover with finger
biscuits and put the mould into a good oven for five
or seven minutes. Turn the charlotte on a dish and
serve hot.
Precautions.--Be very particular to well cover the
mould with butter and biscuits, so that none of the
fruit comes into contact with the mould.
GOOSEBERRY FOOL.
Ingredients.
Sugar. Cream. Gooseberries.
Put the picked fruit with half a pint of water into a
stewpan with pounded loaf-sugar, and set it over a
stove, or in boiling water, till the fruit will pulp, pass
it through a hair sieve and mix the purée by degrees
with cream, or with a plain custard.
Precautions.-Green gooseberries are to be preferred.
GOOSEBERRY TRIFLE.
Ingredients.
Gooseberries. Cream. Milk
Pounded loaf-sugar.
Eggs.
Scald a quart of green gooseberries and pass the
pulp through a sieve, sweeten with pounded loaf-
sugar, make a thick layer with the gooseberries at the
bottom of a rather deep dish, or trifle dish. Mix half
a pint of milk which has been scalded and allowed to
cool with half a pint of cream and the yolks of two
fresh eggs, stir well together, and put the mixture into
a clean stewpan or saucepan, continue stirring, but do


Omelettes.
185
not allow it to boil; add sugar to taste, and set it
aside to cool in a basin. When cold, lay this over
the gooseberries with a spoon, and cover it with a
very high whip of white of egg.
Precautions.-If the custard boils it is spoilt. Watch
for the formation of small solid bodies on the sides
of the stewpan and remove it instantly, and pour
the contents into a basin. This is the commence-
ment of curdling.
THE PREPARATION OF OMELETTES.
LECTURE DELIVERED BEFORE HER MAJESTY AT THE
SCHOOL OF COOKERY.
May it please your Majesty :-
The specimen of cooking which is now to be
presented takes only five minutes, and is within the
reach of almost the poorest of your Majesty's subjects.
The materials cost fourpence, and they furnish a
savoury and nourishing dish. The omelette is seldom
properly cooked even in France, which gives it its
name. It is never found in the homes of the poor in this
country, and in the houses of the rich it is often
very badly prepared. There is no occasion for an
omelette pan and spoon. The ordinary frying-pan
and spoon found in every house will answer per-
fectly well. And we endeavour to show in this school
not only the best and the most economic methods of
domestic cooking, but the various, uses to which
kitchen utensils may be fairly applied without injury.
A PLAIN OMELETTE.
We must be careful that the frying-pan is thoroughly


186
Buckmaster's Cookery.
clean, and free from moisture. Cleanliness brings with
it habits of domestic order, which are among the first
and best methods of happiness in every household.
Place in the frying-pan about one ounce of sweet
butter. We use gas stoves in our cooking, and
duplicate all our operations, so that the public may
have a better opportunity of seeing; but what we
do at these gas stoves we can also do at an ordinary
kitchen fireplace. Break three eggs separately to see
that they are fresh, beat them up with a little
chopped parsley and a pinch of pepper and salt.
The eggs should not be beaten too much (about
four seconds will be sufficient), or the white
separates, and you produce a watery mixture, which
destroys the flavour and appearance of the omelette.
Now that the butter is melted and in a state of
froth, pour into the frying-pan the omelette mixture,
and stir till it begins to set or thicken ; shake
the pan occasionally, and when sufficiently firm,
fold the omelette over neatly into an oval shape, strike
the handle of the frying-pan so as to produce a gentle
vibration, which keeps the omelette detached from the
pan, and when the omelette is of a golden colour
turn it quickly into a dish. To be able to prepare a
plain omelette is to be able to prepare every kind of
omelette. The chief thing to be borne in mind in
cooking an omelette, is that the mixture does not
adhere to the frying-pan.
A CHEESE OMELETTE.
If you require a cheese omelette introduce, into the
omelette mixture about a dessert-spoonful of grated


Omelettes.
IST
Parmesan cheese with a serie pepper and sait, and
sometimes a few guins of cayenne pepper; sprinkle
the omelette ben it is turned out with a little grated
cheese.
A SWEET OMELETTE.
Beat ip a teaspoorlel of pounded loaf-sugar with
the eges, and just before the omelette is ready, dis-
tribute evenly over it a Lule jam, and fold the omelette
over it ; turn it into a bot dish, and sprinkle it with
pounded loaf-sugar.
A BACON OMELETTE.
A few pieces of previously cooked bacon cut into
small dice, added just before folding the omelette, and
so on ; for the principle is the same for all omelettes. -
In preparing an omelette, remember five things :
(1) that you have a clean pan, (2) that the eggs are
not too much beaten, (3) that the omelette is not too
large (three or four eggs), (4) that it is quickly cooked, )
and (5) that it is eaten immediately.
To make simple food wholesome and palatable by
cooking was a duty imposed on man from the very
earliest period of his civilization. An abundant supply
of food, and the proper preparation of it by cooking,
are matters intimately connected with the physical
well-being and happiness of your Majesty's subjects,
and from a long and close connection with the working
classes, through their schools, clubs, and institutes, I
may be permitted to say, that the interest which your
Majesty has shown in this School of Popular Cookery


Vegetables.
189
the consistency of cream, and five gills of milk. Melt
a little butter in the frying-pan till it covers the pan
and froths, now add sufficient batter to cover the pan,
fry the pancake to a light brown on both sides, sprinkle
it with pounded loaf-sugar, and serve hot with sliced
lemon.
Precautions.—Be careful to have good butter and
attend to the frying.
VEGETABLES.
All vegetables intended for boiling should be well
washed, but not soaked, in water; a little vinegar in
the water will be more effectual in removing insects
than salt. Green vegetables should have plenty of
room, and be plunged into boiling water with a small
teaspoonful of pounded loaf-sugar. The saucepan
should be uncovered and the contents occasionally
skimmed, and the vegetables should not remain in the
water an instant after they are cooked.
We do not attach sufficient importance to vege-
tables ; they may be prepared in different ways, and
eaten as separate dishes. In other countries they
form quite a distinct part of the dinner. It is some-
times said that plain boiled vegetables are best; but
this would also apply to plain boiled meat and fish.
Carefully cooked vegetables are more wholesome and
digestible. Very few vegetables can be eaten with
safety without cooking, and if some of the following
recipes are rather more expensive they may often
economically replace meat, which is now the most
costly thing on a table.


Potato Chips.
193
POTATO SOUFFLE,
Ingredients.
Potatoes. Eggs. Parmesan cheese.
Gruyere cheese.
Boil six large potatoes and mash them with three
ounces of sweet butter, a little pepper and salt, and
four ounces of grated cheese (half Parmesan and half
Gruyere is the best mixture), add the yolks of four eggs
and the whites, previously whisked to a rather stiff
paste. Mix these thoroughly and put into a pie-dish
and bake. When the top is nicely browned in the
oven it is ready.
Precautions. The ingredients should be thoroughly
mixed before baking and the whites well whisked
before mixing.
FRIED POTATO CHIPS.
Ingredients.
Potatoes. Hot fat.
Peel six large potatoes, and cut them in slices each
an eighth of an inch in thickness; wash and dry them
in a cloth. Melt your frying fat over a brisk fire, and
when the temperature rises to 385º throw the potatoes
in; stir with the skimmer occasionally to secure an
even cooking ; eight or ten minutes' frying will be suffi-
cient. Drain them on a wire sieve, sprinkle with salt,
and serve. When potatoes are required very crisp, let
them fry three or four minutes longer.
Precautions.- Do not put in too many potato chips
or the fat will fall too low for frying. A slight increase of
temperature while the potatoes are frying is desirable.


194
Buckmaster's Cookery.
FRIED POTATOES AND ONIONS.
Ingredients.
Onions. Potatoes. Parsley.
Lemon.
Butter.
The remains of cold potatoes may be used thus :
Put two ounces of butter and one of oil in a frying-
pan, in which fry three sliced onions; put on the
potatoes, cut in thin slices each about the thickness of
half-a-crown, and toss them now and then until they
have a nice yellow colour; add a spoonful of chopped
parsley, salt, pepper, and the juice of a lemon. Shake
the pan well that they may mix thoroughly together;
dish, and serve very hot.
An excellent dish to serve with a chop, a steak, or
a joint.
Precautions.—A clean frying-pan and good oil are
essential.
POTATO CROQUETS.
Ingredients.
Mashed potatoes. Egg. Parsley.
Spice.
Hot fat.
Cold mashed potatoes may be used up as croquets.
Stir an egg or two into your potatoes, add a little
spice, pepper and salt to taste, and some minced
parsley; mix well, and roll the mixture into balls, or
the shape of corks; cover with egg and bread-crumbs;
and fry to a nice golden colour in hot fat, and garnish
with fried parsley.
Precautions.—Careful frying of the croquets to a
nice colour is essential.


Cauliflower au Gratin.
195
CAULIFLOWERS.
Ingredients.
Cauliflowers. Pounded loaf-sugar.
Wash the cauliflower thoroughly clean, and remove
the coarse outer leaves, split the stalk into four by
cutting it across, but not deep enough to separate the
flower. Plunge it flower downwards into plenty of
boiling water with a teaspoonful of sugar and salt;
keep the saucepan-lid off, and skim; when it is
cooked (which will be in about ten or fifteen minutes),
remove the cauliflower carefully with a slice, and drain
on a sieve.
Precautions.—Plenty of boiling water and plenty of
room are essential.
CAULIFLOWER AU GRATIN.
Ingredients.
Cauliflower. Cheese. Butter. Mustard.
Boil the cauliflower; divide it into pieces the size
of a walnut, leaving out the stem and leaves. Grate
two ounces of Parmesan cheese, and mix it with a
tablespoonful of flour of mustard, a saltspoonful of
white pepper, and half a grain of cayenne ; dip each
piece of cauliflower into the mixture, and place them
flower upwards closely on a flat dish ; strew over the
top the remainder of the cheese; melt two ounces of
butter and pour over it; bake in a quick oven for a
quarter of an hour, and serve immediately.
Precautions.-Be careful the butter is sweet, and not
of too brown a colour.
0 2


196
Buckmaster's Cookery.
SPINACH.
Ingredients.
Spinach.
Butter.
Pick and wash perfectly clean two or three pounds
of spinach ; put it into a saucepan with a very little
water, and let it boil till quite done. Turn the spinach
on to a colander to drain, squeeze the water out, be-
tween two plates, and pass the spinach through a sieve.
Put two ounces of butter into another saucepan, fry
the butter a light brown, add a small teaspoonful of
flour, mix well, and then put in the spinach with
pepper and salt to taste, and a little milk.
Precautions. The spinach should only remain in
the second saucepan long enough to thoroughly mix
with the butter and seasoning.
CABBAGE.
Ingredients.
Cabbage.
Wash and trim off the outer leaves of a cabbage,
divide it, or split the stalk into four, throw the
cabbage-stalk upwards into boiling water, with a tea-
spoonful of pounded loaf-sugar or salt. When cooked
well, drain it on a colander and serve, if preferred,
with a white sauce.
Precautions.—The cabbage should be young and
have plenty of room in the saucepan.
BRUSSELS SPROUTS.
Ingredients.
Brussels sprouts.
Wash and remove the loose leaves from a quart of
sprouts, then throw them into plenty of boiling water,


Asparagus.
197
with salt and pepper. In a quarter of an hour drain
them on a colander. Melt three ounces of butter in a
stewpan with a little salt and pepper, add the brussels
sprouts, shake them for two or three minutes in the
stewpan and serve.
Precautions.Be careful to keep them from burning
in the butter.
ASPARAGUS.
Ingredients.
Asparagus.
Scrape the sticks of the asparagus, wash them, and
cut them into equal lengths. Divide the sticks into
bundles of ten or twelve, tie them together, and put
them into plenty of salted boiling water and a table-
spoonful of vinegar. Take care not' to over-cook-
about fifteen or twenty minutes will be sufficient-or the
heads, which are the most delicate part, will break off
in the saucepan. When sufficiently cooked, remove
them carefully and serve on buttered toast.
Precautions.-Care is necessary to prevent the heads
breaking off.
CARROTS.
Ingredients.
Carrots. Eschalots. Chives.
Scrape clean and wipe, but not wash, fifteen or
twenty small young carrots. Put them in a stewpan
with three ounces of butter, cover the stewpan, and
from time to time give it a shake. After fifteen
minutes add a little pepper and salt, and some finely
minced parsley and chives, or eschalots. Put on the


198
Buckmaster's Cookery.
lid, occasionally shake till the carrots are tender,
Old carrots should be previously well blanched, and
cut into slices and finished cooking in the sauce,
Precautions.-If the carrots are not young they
should be nearly cooked before adding to the sauce.
CARROTS WITH HAM OR BACON.
Ingredients,
Carrots. Ham, Bouquet garni.
Melt in a stewpan three ounces of butter, and mix
with it one ounce of flour; stir for five minutes.
Now add a gill of boiling stock or water, stirring
with a wooden spoon. Add half a pound of ham or
bacon, cut into half-inch dice, with a little pepper
(and, perhaps, a little salt, but this will depend on
the saltness of the ham or bacon), a bouquet garni,
with a clove of garlic, or a large onion instead of the
garlic, Cut into slices, about the thickness of a
penny, six large carrots and put them in the stewpan.
Let the contents boil till the carrots are tender.
Remove the onion and bouquet garni and serve.
Precautions.-Constant attention is necessary after
adding the sliced carrots.
VEGETABLE MARROW WITH ONIONS.
Ingredients,
Vegetable marrow. Onions,
Peel and remove the seeds of a vegetable marrow,
cut it into slices and throw it into boiling water with a
little salt. When sufficiently cooked drain on a
colander, Melt in a stewpan two ounces of butter


Colcannon.
199
with two shredded onions, and when tender add the
slices of vegetable marrow. Season with pepper and
salt. Occasionally shake the stewpan, and in seven
minutes it is ready,
Precautions, -The onions must not be allowed to
brown in the butter,
COLCANNON
Ingredients.
Potatoes.
Green vegetables,
Boil potatoes and greens or spinach separately;
mash the potatoes; squeeze the greens dry; chop
them quite fine, and mix altogether in a basin, with
a little butter, pepper, and salt; put the whole into a
mould, previously well buttered with a brush. Let it
stand in a hot oven for ten minutes and then turn out.
Precautions.-Let the vegetables be firm and the
mould properly buttered, or the colcannon will break
on turning out.
GREEN PEAS.
Ingredients,
Green peas Butter, Mint.
Lettuce.
Onion,
Sugar,
Tie into a small bunch a small head of lettuce and
one or two onions, and throw them with the peas into
plenty of boiling water, with some salt, and a little
pounded loaf-sugar, When cooked strain off all the
water and remove the bunch, Mix with about an ounce
of butter a small quantity of finely minced mint, pre-
viously blanched, put this in a dish and turn the peas
over it,


200
Buckmaster's Cookery,
Precautions. --The peas should be young, quickly
boiled, and not shelled before they are wanted,
FRENCH BEANS, PLAIN,
French beans, Sugar
Take one pound of French beans, remove the
strings and stalks, and, if they are old, split them.
Turn them into a saucepan with plenty of boiling
water and a small teaspoonful of sugar and salt, boil
them till they are tender, which can be ascertained by
trying them
When this vegetable is too old, no cooking will ever
make it good,
Precautions --In boiling green vegetables the colour
can only be retained by quick boiling in plenty of
water in an uncovered saucepan,


LECTURE XII.
“Who giveth Food to all flesh."
“Much food is in the tillage of the poor, but there is that
destroyed for want of judgment."
ROASTING, BROILING, BOILING, STEAMING,
BAKING, BRAISING,
The first thing is to select your meat. Few persons
go to market, and families have often to take whatever
the butcher thinks proper to send. Beef constitutes
by far the larger proportion of animal food consumed
by man; and in selecting a piece of beef or mutton,
see that the grain is not too coarse, that the meat is
of a bright red colour, soft to the touch, and that the
fat is nicely intermixed with the lean. Mutton and
beef will be more tender if the weather will admit of
their being hung, knuckle downwards, some days
before cooking ; but two days in summer are often
equal to a week in winter. The flavour and the
quality of meat will depend on the breed, age,
and food. The lean is the muscular part of the
animal, and consists of fibrin, gelatine, and albu-
men. Experiments, which have been carefully made,
show that a sirloin of beef, weighing twelve pounds,
lost in roasting forty-four ounces, of which twenty-
seven were water and seventeen fat or dripping. A
flank of beef, weighing twelve pounds, made into
pot-au-feu, or bouilli, lost twenty-five ounces. It is
therefore quite clear that boiling, especially when the


202
Buckmaster's Cookery.
liquor is turned to an account, as it should be, is
the most economic kind of cooking. When meat
is boiled, much of the albumen remains in the water,
and when flavoured with vegetables and herbs, and
thickened with meal, you have a highly nutritious soup,
much used in every country except our own. Glue
is an impure gelatine. The white of egg is nearly a
pure albumen ; this albumen surrounds the fibres of the
meat; and the stringy threads of stewed meat afford an
example of fibrin. The osmazome is that extract or
essence which gives meat its peculiar odour and taste
by long stewing. The osmazome is dissolved in the
water, and this is the secret of all meat flavours in
soup. Roasting appears to exalt the flavour of meat
more than any other method of cooking. The best
joints for roasting are the ribs and fillet, the rump and
sirloin; for making soup, the neck, tail, and tops of ribs;
and for stewing, all the inferior pieces. (See page 17.)
To roast properly a good fire is most important: it
should be evenly lighted, bright and radiant, and
never allowed to get low. No reliable time can be
given for roasting, because the nature and the qualities
of meat vary. About two hours for seven pounds of
beef, and one hour and three-quarters for a leg of
mutton of the same weight, or roughly, about a quarter
of an hour to the pound, will generally be found
sufficient. To tell whether the meat is done, press
the fleshy part with the thumb; if the meat yield to
the pressure it is done. In the case of poultry or
game, the flesh of the leg may be tried in the same
manner. Cooks attach importance to the “ steams
drawing to the fire." When the meat is nearly done,


Broiling:
203
remove the buttered paper, if any has been used, and
sprinkle over the meat a little salt, and put the ends
of the joint to the fire ; well baste the meat, and en-
deavour to obtain a clear brown colour before the
fire. If you wish the meat to be frothed, dredge verys
lightly a little well-dried flour over the surface, and
give it time to crisp ; do not baste after the flour.
Practice is the only way to learn to roast properly.)
Broiling is a very acceptable kind of cooking when
well done, but anything broiled requires constant
watching. It is an easy method of making a small
portion of fish or meat savoury, and may be recom-
mended to bachelors. It is not the cooking for families.
Things broiled should be turned with steak tongs; a
fork should on no account be used; and without a clear,
bright fire good broiling is impossible. (See page 18.)
The principle is the same as roasting; the albumen
of the meat or fish is coagulated, which forms a crust,
and so retains all the juices. Delicate appetites are
often encouraged with a nice broiled fish. The national
beef steak and mutton chop have made us the best of
broilers. There are only a few places in London where
you can have these things cooked to perfection. Two
gridirons are best-one for meat, the other fish. The
bars of gridirons are often too large and obstruct
much of the heat. The gridiron should be very
clean, and if bright when purchased it should
be kept so, and always be washed before putting
away. Before putting anything on the gridiron let it
get thoroughly hot; the reason for this is obvious;
much of the heat of the fire is conducted away by
the iron, and if a piece of meat be placed on at once


Braising
205
be a convenient way of cooking, but it is doubtful if
things are so savoury and well cooked as by boiling ;
but there are many preparations in the kitchen to
which the objection does not apply. A jugged hare
is cooked by steam. Things to be steamed must be
prepared in the same way as for boiling, and several
things may be cooked in the same steamer, which is
often very convenient in large families or schools.
Baking:- This is the general Sunday cooking of
the poor; it saves trouble, but it is the worst and most
wasteful kind of cooking ; all sorts of things and
flavours are mixed up together. If a poor man had
a well-ventilated kitchener and baked at home, the prac-
tice would be less objectionable, and I should like to see
the time but I never shall see it-when every poor
family baked their own bread, and taught their daugh-
ters how to bake, not with German yeast, but the old-
fashioned genuine brewers' yeast. The best changes
and reforms are sometimes to go back.
Braising -- This is purely a French method, and is
thought by some to be the perfection of cooking, but
certainly not always relished by English tastes. This
kind of cooking is best for white, lean meat and
fowls, which are first larded. The praises of a braised
turkey have been somewhat irreverently sung by a
celebrated gourmand
Turkey boiled is Turkey spoiled,
Turkey roast is Turkey lost,
For Turkey braised the Lord be praised.
Whatever the method of cooking the same general
principles apply. It does not depend on hot season-


206
Buckmaster's Cookery.
ing to stimulate to eat those who have already eaten
too much, but an educated mind and taste combining
various methods for making food wholesome, savoury,
and digestible.
BOILED BEEF OR BOUILLI.
Ingredients.
Bouilli.
Beef used for the pot-au-feu is called Bouilli, and
has no doubt given much of its flavour to the broth;
but it may be made into a very inviting dish. As
soon as the beef broth has been prepared (see page
30), the meat should be taken out and placed on a
dish, garnished with vegetables that can be eaten.
Why parsley is used I cannot understand; it
cannot be eaten, and before carving it is always
removed.
BOUILLI WITH SHARP SAUCE.
Ingredients.
Boiled beef. Piquante or tomato sauce.
Take about a pound and a half of cold beef and
cut it across the grain into slices a quarter of an inch
thick. Trim off the gristle and outside parts, put the
meat into a small gratin dish, sprinkle with pepper
and salt, and moisten with a gill of stock; let the
meat bake for a quarter of an hour in a moderate
oven. Serve either with piquante or tomato sauce
poured over the meat.
Precautions. The preparation of the sauce is most
important for this dish.


Roast Beef.
207
ROAST SIRLOIN OF BEEF.
Ingredients.
Sirloin of beef.
Take a piece of sirloin of beef, weighing seven or
nine pounds, cut off the chine bone, flatten the flap
part, and tie it under the fillet, or cut it off. Trim up
the joint, then tie a layer of suet over the fillet. Cover
the meat with buttered paper, secure it with a piece
of tape, and roast before an even fire. Put it close
to the fire for ten minutes, then remove to a short
distance. Ten minutes before the meat is ready,
remove the paper and sprinkle with salt.
Precautions.-A little water or stock without flavour
should be put into the dripping-pan, but not butter or
dripping. Baste frequently, and if you have to add
coals during the roasting, do so in such a way as not
to deaden the fire.
ROAST RUMP OF BEEF.
Ingredients.
Rump of beef. Onions. Chablis Bacon. Oil.
Thyme. Parsley.
A rump of beef may be roasted like sirloin, but it is
sometimes finely larded. (Always remember to lard
everything across the grain.) Before roasting, put the
larded beef into a dish with one or two gills of white
wine, three tablespoonfuls of oil, a little pepper and salt,
two shredded onions, a sprig of thyme, and two or three
sprigs of parsley. Let the beef remain in the dish for
two days before roasting, turning it once or twice.
On the third day it should be roasted. When half


Roast Veal.
209
ROAST LOIN OF VEAL.
Ingredients.
Loin of veal.
Take four or five pounds, including the kidney,
remove the chine-bone, and trim off some of the fat,
then roll the flap underneath, and tie it with a piece
of tape, so as to enclose the kidney.
ROAST CHUMP OF VEAL.
Ingredients.
Chump of veal.
Take about the same weight as for loin of veal, and
keep it in shape with a piece of tape. Then cover
the veal with caul or buttered paper.
Precautions. The fire for roasting must not be too
fierce, or the outside will be hardened before the inside
is cooked ; always remove the tape before sending to
table. Remove all the fat from the gravy and baste.
ROAST LEG OF MUTTON.
Ingredients.
Leg of mutton.
Mutton for roasting is all the better for being kept
a few days, if the weather be favourable, in a dry, airy
place, free from flies. A short thick leg is the best ; the
lean rather of a dark red, and the fat firm and white.
Saw off the shank-bone two inches below the knuckle.
A clove of garlic may be introduced near the knuckle
for those who like the flavour. Place it before a sharp
fire for fifteen minutes, to keep in the gravy, then
remove it a short distance to finish roasting; put half
a pint of broth in the dripping-pan, and five or ten


210
Buckmaster's Cookery.
minutes before taking from the fire, sprinkle with salt;
place the mutton on a dish, and put a white paper
frill round the knuckle-bone ; skim off all the fat, and
strain the gravy over the meat. You may serve with
this joint white haricot beans, or macaroni under the
meat or separately. A leg of mutton may be marinaded
before roasting. (See Roast Rump of Beef, p. 207.)
Precautions.—Constant basting is necessary for all
roast meat.
ROAST HIND-QUARTER OF LAMB.
Ingredients.
Hind-quarter of lamb. Horseradish sauce. Watercresses.
Saw off the knuckle-bone of a hind-quarter or leg
of lamb, and roast before a sharp, even fire; when
ready, place it on a dish, and garnish with watercresses.
Horseradish or mint sauce may be served in a boat.
Precautions.—Frequent basting and a clear uniform
fire are necessary.
ROAST BREAST OF LAMB.
. Ingredients.
Breast of lamb. Watercresses. Mint sauce.
Select a nice breast or leg of lamb, and put it before
a clear fire. Take some stale bread-crumbs, minced
parsley, and a little salt and pepper; mix these
thoroughly together. After about a quarter of an
hour, when the fat begins to melt freely, sprinkle the
mixture uniformly over the surface. When done,
skim the fat from the gravy, and strain over the joint.
Garnish with watercresses, and serve with hot mint
sauce in a boat. A lemon is often sent up with roast
lamb.


Roast Partridge.
211
Precautions.-A clear uniform fire and basting are
essential for all roast meat.
ROAST PARTRIDGE.
Ingredients.
Partridge. Bacon. Watercresses.
Draw, wipe, and singe a partridge, tie round the
breast a rasher of fat bacon and put it before a clear
good fire and in eighteen or twenty minutes the bird is
ready. Remove the bacon and serve with gravy and
garnish with watercresses; or take a round of toast
without crust, moisten it in hot water or stock, press
it lightly, butter and soak it in the dripping-pan
and serve the partridges on it. Some prefer the
toasted bread slightly moistened with lemon-juice.
Precautions.—In selecting a partridge, grouse, or
pheasant, see that the spurs are small; look at the
under feathers of the wings—if pointed, the bird is
young ; if round, old. Try the pinions and breast.
ROAST GROUSE.
Ingredients.
Grouse.
Take a pair of grouse, draw, singe, and truss them;
then tie a thin rasher of fat bacon over the breasts
and put them to roast before a good fire. When
ready serve them on pieces of toasted bread.
Blackcock may be roasted in the same way, but
garnished with watercresses.
ROAST PHEASANTS.
Ingredients.
Pheasant. Bacon.
Proceed as above, to draw, wipe and singe a
pheasant. Truss it and tie over the breast a rasher
of fat bacon ; put it before a clear fire and in thirty
P 2


212
Buckmaster's Cookery.
or forty minutes it is done. Remove the bacon,
garnish with watercresses, and serve up with gravy
made either from lean beef or from game. The latter
is the better. The pheasant should be kept just long
enough to bring out the flavour. Guinea fowls and
pea fowls are cooked and served like pheasants.
Precautions.—Young birds are to be preferred.
ROAST QUAILS.
Ingredients.
Quail. Bacon.
Pick, singe, and truss a quail, but do not draw it, tie
a vine-leaf and a rasher of fat bacon over the breast
and roast like a partridge. Garnish with watercresses.
Precautions. These require careful attention while
roasting.
ROAST DUCK.
Ingredients.
Duck Onions. Sage. Bread crumbs.
Stuff the duck with a stuffing prepared as follows:
Take two or three onions, say six ounces, cut them in
slices with six or eight sage leaves, blanch both for
five minutes ; drain and chop them fine; put the
whole in a stewpan with one ounce of butter, two
pinches of salt, and two small pinches of pepper ;
simmer gently for ten minutes, stirring with a wooden
spoon; add a handful of bread crumbs, and stir for
two minutes more; the stuffing is then ready for use;
an apple mixed with the stuffing is thought by some
to be an improvement. Truss the duck, and put it
down to roast before a very brisk fire.
Precautions.-A young duck, a good fire, and occa-
sional basting are necessary.


Roast Fowl.
213
ROAST GOOSE.
Ingredients.
A goose. Duck stuffing.
A goose weighing six or eight pounds is to be pre-
ferred. Pick, draw, singe and wipe, and stuff it with
stuffing as for roast duck. Sprinkle with a little salt,
baste frequently, skim off all the fat, strain the gravy
and serve separately or on the dish, as preferred.
Precautions. It is essential that the goose should
be young, and roasted before a good fire, but not a
fierce one. Try the pinion, and if the lower part of
the beak breaks easily the goose or duck is young.
ROAST FOWL.
Ingredients.
Fowl. Bacon. Onion.
Pick, draw, wipe, singe, and truss a fowl. Unless
stuffed, an onion inside and a piece of butter are
thought to be an improvement. Tie a rasher of fat
bacon over the breast and put the fowl before a bright
clear fire, then roast slowly, with occasional basting.
When ready strain the gravy and pour it under the
fowl. Garnish with watercresses.
Precautions.—A young fowl is essential, which may
be known by the large size of its feet and knee-joints
and the smallness of the spurs. Try the pinions and
breast. Baste occasionally.
ROAST TURKEY.
Ingredients.
Turkey. Watercresses.
Prepare a turkey; one of about six or seven pounds
is to be preferred. Put the turkey before a good fire
1


Fricassée of Fowl.
215
take a saucepan or stewpan large enough to hold the
leg of mutton comfortably ; cut off the shank and trim
the meat. At the bottom of the saucepan arrange a
layer of rashers of ham or bacon, lay on these the leg
of mutton, and pack it round with the trimmings and
shank and any odd pieces of bacon or scrag ends.
Take six young carrots, two leeks, six onions, each
about two inches in diameter, one with two cloves stuck
in it, and a teaspoonful of whole white pepper, a blade
of mace, half a teaspoonful of allspice, and a good
bouquet garni, with a sprig of celery, and two bay-
leaves in it, add a pint and a half of good stock, and
the squeeze of a lemon ; set it aside to simmer for five
hours; keep the lid close, but give the contents an
occasional shake. If you have an oven large enough,
the saucepan may be placed in it. When ready dish
the leg of mutton, strain the liquor over, and serve.
Precautions. The object is to cook the meat very
slowly in the vapour of the various ingredients, and
care must be taken that it does not boil, nor should
the lid be removed unless absolutely necessary.
A FRICASSÉE OF FOWL.
Ingredients.
A young fowl. An onion. Mushrooms. Lemon.
To prepare a fricassée of chicken, which may be
slightly varied from the following recipe, is one of the
best examples of good English cooking
Draw, pick, wash, and singe a chicken, cut off the
head and the legs at the first joint and the wings at the
second. In singeing be careful not to break, burn, or
blacken the fowl. It is necessary to singe all fowls ; it!


216
Buckmaster's Cookery.
not only destroys the small down but tightens the skin.
Put the chicken into a clean three-quart stewpan with
sufficient warm water to cover it; add one onion with
a clove, a little salt, and a bunch of parsley.' Skim
when necessary. Let it boil for ten minutes, remove
it to sieve and let it drain for three minutes. With the
liquor in which the chicken was boiled prepare a sauce
by adding two ounces of butter and two tablespoon-
fuls of flour, and thoroughly stir. Prepare and blanch
for five minutes a dozen mushrooms, in just sufficient
water to cover them ; add the juice of half a lemon.
Strain into the sauce and put the mushrooms aside;
be careful that they are not broken. Neatly cut
up the fowl into ten pieces, keeping the skin on each
piece, and finish cooking the pieces in the sauce,
which will take from twenty to twenty-five minutes.
Arrange them neatly on a dish, strain over them the
sauce and garnish with the mushrooms. Four crayfish
make a good garnish, or croutons of bread fried in
butter.
Precautions.—It is necessary to have a young fowl,
and it must not remain in the sauce longer than is
necessary for cooking.
BOILED FOWL.
Ingredients.
A fowl.
Neatly truss and prepare a fowl; be careful not to
break the skin in picking, and wrap it in a sheet
of white buttered paper, put it into a clean stewpan
or saucepan with plenty of lukewarm water, and
let it just boil, skim, and in fifteen minutes turn


Marinaded Fowl.
217
the fowl over for another fifteen minutes, and for
a fowl of about three pounds this will be sufficient.
Young fowls and all poultry will be the better for
being kept two or three days before boiling Sense
with a white sauce, or bechamel sauce, or parsley and
butter, according to taste.
Precautions. Choose a young fowl with white or
pale-coloured legs. Occasional skirtning is neces
sary.
MARINADED FOWL.
Ingredients.
Hot fat. Pieces of fwl Prying to er,
Vinegar.
This is a method for using up the remains of cold
fowl Cut the fowl into fillets, each about two inches
in length and one in breaslth. Put into a basin
a gill of vinegar with pepper and salt and dessert-
spoonful of oil, add the pieces of fowl and let them
soak for two hours; then drain and dry them in
a clean cloth. Dip each piece of the fowl into frying
batter (page 117), and fry in hot fat at 385" to a
golden colour. Fry a little dried parsley and garnish
with it. Tornato sauce should be served in a boat.
Precautions. -The pieces of fowl should be nicely
covered with batter and carefully fried. Remember
the fowl has already been cooked.
FRICANDEAU OF VEAL.
Ingredients.
Veal Carrots. Stock.
Frying butter.
Onions.
Take about three pounds of the lean part of a


218
Buckmaster's Cookery.
fillet of veal, about two inches in thickness, and lard
one side with bacon, and cut into fillets not more
than a quarter of an inch in section. To fillet a piece
of meat will require a little practice; you had better
see it done; no verbal description will be of much
service. Put into a clean stewpan any trimmings
from the veal, with an ounce of butter, a sliced carrot,
a sliced onion with pepper and salt, lay the veal on
these and add half a pint of good stock when it has
become thick and gelatinous, turn the fricandeau over
and add another pint and let it simmer, not boil, for
an hour, frequently basting with the liquor by shaking
the stewpan. When cooked skim off the fat, place
it on a dish and strain over the liquor. The frican-
deau is generally served with sorrel, endive, or
spinach.
Precautions.-In larding be particular always to lard
across the grain, and if possible use fat bacon which
has not been cured with saltpetre.
BROILED CALF'S KIDNEY.
Ingredients.
Kidney. Maitre-d'hôtel butter,
Take a calf's kidney, cut it in half in the direction
of its length, slightly flatten it with the chopper,
season with pepper and salt, dip each piece in butter,
then bread crumb it, and broil on the gridiron over
a clear fire. Lay the kidney on two ounces of maitre-
d'hôtel butter, and serve on a hot dish.
Precautions.—The kidney must be carefully fried
over a clear fire.


Sweetbreads.
22 1
chopper just moistened with water to prevent its
sticking to the cutlet; remove the gristle from round
the lean, and pare away the meat and skin from the
inside of the bone; this is to give the cutlets the
requisite shape. Sprinkle the cutlets on each side with
them slightly; make them into shape with the side of
a knife; put them on a gridiron over a brisk fire and
cook them for four minutes on one side, and for three
minutes on the other : dish up in a circle ; or egg and
bread-crumb them (see page 118), and fry in hot fat
at 385°.
Precautions.—The mutton should be tender and the
cutlets nicely browned.
SWEETBREADS.
Ingredients.
Sweetbreads. Stock.
Whatever the dish, sweetbreads are always first
prepared as follows :-Soak for three hours in
cold water three sweetbreads, change the water occa-
sionally if it becomes discoloured, put them into boil-
ing water for half-an-hour, or long enough to become
firm, but not hard, press them into shape by placing
them between two paste-boards or baking tins, with a
four or five pound weight on the top, then lard them with
bacon about one-eighth of an inch in section. Bacon
for larding should be cured without saltpetre, or it
gives a pink tinge to all white meat. Put them in a clean
stewpan with three gills of rich stock, and season with
salt; when the stock thickens add another half-pint and
baste frequently with the stock ;, arrange them on a


222
Buckmaster's Cookery.
dish, strain the gravy over them, and serve with sorrel,
green peas, or tomato sauce.
Precautions.—Throat sweetbreads are the best, and
the gravy should be rich and free from fat. Do not
allow the sweetbreads to harden in boiling, or they
will be difficult to lard.
OX TONGUE.
Ingredients.
A tongue. Tomato sauce. Two bouquets garni.
Onion. Carrot.
Trim the root of a fresh ox tongue and soak it for
an hour in cold water. Put it into a stewpan with
plenty of cold water, add a good-sized onion with
two cloves, two bouquets garni, and an ounce of salt
and half an ounce of pepper. Bring it to the boil,
skim and simmer for three hours; when cooked take
off the skin and arrange the tongue on a dish, and
serve with tomato sauce.
Precautions. The tongue must not remain in the
liquor after it is cooked.
OX PALATE.
Ingredients. :
Ox palate. Bouquet garni. Butter. Onion.
Carrot. Stock.
Blanch for ten minutes an ox palate, drain it,
remove the fat, and scrape it carefully; divide it into
two parts, and put the palate into a small stewpan with
a pint of stock, half an ounce of butter, a little pepper
and salt, a bouquet garni, a small onion, and a small
carrot. Let the contents simmer for three hours;
remove the palate to a cloth, then clean away any fat,
and dish with sharp sauce.


Haricot Beans and Bacon.
223
Praautions.—The palate should be slowly sim-
mered, or it becomes hard.
HARICOT BEANS AND BACON.
Ingratients.
Haricot beans. Bouquet garni. Garlic or eschalot.
Put a pint of beans into cold water the over-night.
Cut half a pound of bacon into half-inch dice, put the
bacon and beans into a clean saucepan with just suffi-
cient cold water to cover them ; let the beans boil
till they are tender, then stir in one or two table-
spoonfuls of flour, a little pepper, and a bouquet
garni, with a clove of garlic or an eschalot. Let the
contents simmer slowly, and when the sauce is suffi-
ciently thickened the beans and bacon are ready.
Precautions.—The beans, if old, will require long
soaking, or much longer boiling than is desirable for
the bacon.
FAT PORK OR BACON AND HARICOT BEANS.
Ingredients.
Haricot beans. Pork.
Soak a quart of haricot beans in cold water for ten
or twelve hours, then boil them with a little salt till
they are tender. Take a common yellow dish, and
put the beans at the bottom, and on a tripod
place two pounds of fat bacon or pork and bake for
an hour, or the meat may be roasted and the beans
placed in the dripping-pan.
Precautions. The beans should be quite tender
before baking.


224
Buckmaster's Cookery.
ASPIC JELLY.
Ingredients.
Stock. Gelatine. Eggs. Bouquet garni.
Tarragon vinegar. White pepper. Common vinegar.
Soak two ounces of good gelatine in water till it
softens, strain off the water and put the gelatine into
a basin with three pints of strong stock. This may
be prepared either from knuckle of veal or calves' feet,
or lean beef, or all of them. Whisk up the whites and
shells of two eggs, and one egg without the shell,
put them into a clean stewpan with six white
peppercorns and a bouquet garni, containing a clove
of garlic; add a dessertspoonful of tarragon vinegar
and two dessertspoonfuls of common vinegar, whisk
all together in a stewpan till the eggs froth a little,
then add the stock and gelatine, and season if neces-
sary with pepper and salt. Put it over a slow fire,
whisking till it comes to the boil. Let it simmer,
then stand it aside till it becomes clear, strain it into
a basin, and when cold it is ready for garnishing
cold dishes and salads.
Precautions.—This jelly requires constant attention,
and when well prepared is very useful.
GRAVY FOR GENERAL USE.
Ingredients.
Veal. Bouquet garni. Onion. Carrot.
It is often necessary to prepare a gravy for general
use. Take about two pounds of fillet of veal, remove
any fat, cut it into three or four pieces and add any
odd portions of uncooked meat. Put them all into a


Chestnut Forcemeat.
225
six-pint saucepan or stewpan with half a pint of soft
water. Let it come slowly to the boil and continue
reducing till it forms a glaze. Turn the pieces of
meat over and add three pints of water, a teaspoon-
ful of salt, a pinch of pepper, a bouquet garni, a
small carrot split into four, and one onion, with two
cloves. Let the contents come to the boil and
simmer slowly for two hours with the lid removed.
Skim as occasion requires and strain the liquor
through a tammy sieve and put it aside for use. The
pieces of meat can be served with a sharp sauce.
Precautions.—The contents must not boil or the
gravy will not be clear, and freedom from fat is most
essential.
CHESTNUT FORCEMEAT.
Ingrediets.
Chestnuts. Veal. Bacon. Spiced salt. Stock.
A forcemeat should be of sufficient consistency to
cut, but should not be dry or heavy. Roast slowly
thirty sweet chestnuts, peel them, and put in a
basin. Take half a pound of lean veal, free from
skin and gristle, and three-quarters of a pound of fat
bacon; scrape the bacon and remove the rind.
Mince the bacon and veal finely, add a little stock
and a tablespoonful of spiced salt (page 27). Mix
thoroughly and turn the ingredients into a mortar,
work them for a quarter of an hour, then put in
a basin. Peel the chestnuts and add them to the
forcemeat, work up with the hands and stuff the turkey
or veal.


226
Buckmaster's Cookery.
Precautions.—These ingredients must be thoroughly
mixed and the forcemeat moderately firm. If the
chestnuts are difficult to mix, work them for two or
three minutes in a mortar.
STUFFING (1).
Ingredients.
Onions. Butter. Sage leaves. Bread-crumbs.
Melt in a clean stewpan one ounce of butter and
season it with pepper and salt. Blanch for seven
minutes three-quarters of a pound of sliced onions
and fifteen sage leaves, remove the stalks and mince
them finely and then stir into the butter. Stir for ten
minutes with a wooden spoon. Now add stale bread-
crumbs, sufficient to bring the stuffing to its proper
consistency, and the stuffing is ready for use.
· Precautions. The mixture requires constant stir-
ring.
STUFFING (2).
Ingredients.
Parsley. Eschalot. Suet. Eggs.
Marjoram. Nutmeg. Thyme.
Take half a pound of stale bread crumbs, four
ounces of finely-chopped suet, two eggs, a dessert-
spoonful of minced parsley, a very small teaspoon-
ful of minced eschalots, marjoram, and thyme, then
season with pepper and salt and two grates of nutmeg.
Work these thoroughly well together with the hands
and it is ready.
TO PREPARE A GLAZE.
Put some stock into a clean stewpan, and reduce it


Glase.
227
quickly till it becomes thick; turn it into a smaller
stewpan, and continue reducing and stirring till it is of
sufficient consistency to form a firm jelly. The glaze
should not be of too dark a colour. Turn it into an
earthenware jar, and when it is wanted melt the glaze
by putting the jar into a saucepan of warm water, and
gradually bring the water to the boil, on the principle
of a carpenter's glue pot, which is a bain-marie. An
arrangement of this kind can be easily extemporized
in every house.
HOW TO GLAZE.
Whatever cold dish has to be glazed, it is essential
the surface should be well dried, or it will never
properly cover the meat.
Melt the glaze in the manner just described, and
with a clean brush varnish the surface ; lay on the glaze
thinly, evenly, and smoothly. When firm, lay on if
necessary another coat, and a third. The object is
not to hide the thing glazed, but to see it through a
transparent film of gelatine.
Q 2


LECTURE XIII.
Feed me with food convenient for me.
“Who giveth food to all flesh.”
FOOD-HUNGER AND THIRST.
It has already been shown in a previous lecture,
that the animal body is in a state of constant renovation
and decay ; that every point in its substance is the seat
of a perpetual series of births of new particles and
deaths of old ones, thus necessitating the continual
introduction of new material to occupy the place
of the old, worn-out, and effete tissues. The new
material ingested into the body to supply the place of
the old is termed food.
Two different series of changes are in continual
progress, viz. :- 1. A process of combustion, by which
the animal heat is developed and sustained. 2. A
process by which the tissues of the various organs
are disintegrated in the performance of their respective
functions. Two kinds of food are therefore rendered
necessary, viz. :-1. Heat-forming, respiratory, or fuel
food, to supply the animal heat. 2. Flesh or tissue-
forming food, to supply the elements of growth, repair,
and renovation.
Functions of Plants in Relation to Animal Life.-
The animal body has very little chemical construc-
od semnctionsbo


Food-Ilunger and Thirst.
229
tive or synthetic power ; it cannot therefore subsist
on mineral or inorganic matter. It has no power to
construct the proximate principles of which its tissues
are built up; it must therefore be supplied with these
principles ready made, or it cannot exist. This is the
grand function of plants. Plants possess the con-
structive power in which the animal is deficient, they
build up and supply its proximate principles; such
as albumen, casein, fibrine, and other nitrogenous
substances; which alone render animal life possible,
and thus form the intermediate link connecting animal
life with inanimate nature.
An animal cannot live on air, water, sand or other
earthy substances; a plant not only subsists on these
substances, but elaborates from them into its own
tissues the very elements necessary to the develop-
ment, growth, and sustenance of animal lite.
The vegetable world is therefore, as it were, an
immense natural manufactory of the raw material of
the animal structure. The plant itself is worked up
from still simpler materials --namely, carbonic acid,
water, ammonia, and certain salts.
The plant gathers and absorbs carbonic acid, water,
and ammonia from the atmosphere, and minute
quantities of earthy salts from the soil. It decomposes
the carbonic acid, evolving its oxygen, which re-
stores purity to the atmosphere. A portion of the
absorbed carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen it converts
into woody fibre, sugar, and starch, while out of other
portions of these elements, together with nitrogen, it
elaborates the higher and more complex protein com-
pounds indispensable for the development and sus


Food-Hunger and Thirst.
231
ANIMALS
VEGETABLES
Live on highly nitrogenous or- | Appropriate but a small quantity
ganic food.
of nitrogenous inorganic food.
Live actively.
Live slowly.
Waste rapidly.
Waste slowly.
Renovate and repair slowly. Change slowly.
Consume proximate principles. Live on inorganic food..
Convert one proximate prin- Build up proximate principles.
ciple into another.
No animal is nourished by car- Plants are nourished by carbonic
bonic acid or ammonia l acid and ammonia.
Changes produced by inherent Changes are produced by ex-
powers of organism. 1 ternal forces, heat, light, and
| electricity.
Food is rendered necessary by bodily waste ; the
quantity of food required must therefore depend on
the rate of waste, and the quality or kind of food
upon the nature of the waste. The principal waste of
the body consists of carbonic acid and water evolved
from the lungs, and urea and uric acid excreted by
the kidneys and the organs connected with the
alimentary canal. The daily supply of food must
therefore contain as much carbon, hydrogen, and
nitrogen as is daily excreted from the body in the
former substances, or the body slowly crumbles into
ruin. But the animal organism possesses only a very
feeble constructive power; the nitrogen required must
be therefore presented to it very nearly in that form
in which it is assimilated by the body; in other
words, the nitrogen must be presented in the form of
“ protein,” or some modification of it, as albumen,
fibrin, and casein, more or less similar to that which
exists in the tissues. The composition of the body
remaining the same, the quantity of nitrogenous food
daily required to build up the wasted tissues must
be such as shall contain an amount of nitrogen equal


232
Buckmaster's Cookery.
to that contained in the urea and other nitrogenous
excretions.
By determining the daily amount of these excre-
tions or degraded tissues, the quantity of flesh-
forming or nitrogenous food which must be ingested
per day, to sustain the animal body at its full weight
and vigour, may be calculated with a fair degree of
accuracy.
In like manner, the quantity of carbon that must
be taken into the body daily in the carbonaceous or
heat-forming food, must equal the quantity of carbon
evolved from the lungs and the skin in the form of
carbonic acid, plus the carbon passed out of the
system through the bowels and the kidneys.
If the whole of the food taken were digested,
it would be easy to determine the amount of the
excretions proper, and thus the quantity of the tissues
disintegrated daily; but in general considerable quan-
tities of undigested food pass out of the intestines
with the excretions, and there is no certain mode of
accurately determining the respective quantities of
these egesta.
Food is an Exponent of Work. It is a familiar fact
that for a man or a horse to work hard he must eat
well; but science alone can indicate the mathe-
matical accuracy of the relation between eating and
working. Dr. Playfair, M.P., in a most instructive
and philosophical paper recently published, entitled
“ The Food of Man in Relation to his Useful Work,"
has produced much additional evidence, showing that
the nitrogenous food alone becomes a source of
dynamical or mechanical and of mental work. He


Food-Hunger and Thirst.
233
shows that a horse may be kept in a condition of health
during a state of quietude when fed daily on 12 lbs.
of hay and 5 lbs. of oats,—food containing about
29*2 oz. of nitrogenous or flesh-forming food; but that
if required to do much work, he should get daily 14 lbs.
of hay, 12 lbs. of oats, and 2 lbs. of beans, which con-
tain about 56*2 oz. of flesh-formers. The difference
in these amounts therefore indicates the amount of
the flesh-formers required for the performance of the
mechanical labour, over that required for mere sub-
sistence, as follows :
Horse at work. . 56*2 oz. of plastic food.
Horse at rest. . 29*2
Difference . 27'0 oz. ,
The food equivalent of the mechanical labour of the
horse is therefore 27 oz. of flesh-formers.
Again, the amount of flesh-forming food required.
to keep an ordinary man of good health in a state
of quietude is about 2 oz.; and the amount of flesh-
formers required to keep the same man in a state of
health when performing similar mechanical labour
(pulling weights horizontally) is 5.5 oz.
Man at work requires 5'5 oz. of flesh-formers.
Man at rest , 2.0
Difference for work 3.5 oz.
27
The horse at work therefore consumes — = 7*7, or
- 35
nearly eight times as much labour-food as the man at
work. But what relation does the quantity of work
performed by the man bear to the quantity of work


234
Buckmaster's Cookery.
performed by the horse? Mechanical physicists have
estimated the work of a horse at 12,400,000 foot pounds,
and the work of a man at 1,500,000 foot pounds;
therefore
unſ the work of horse = 12,400,000 -8.96
I , man = 1,500,000
or, in other words, the work of the horse bears the
same relation to the work of a man that the labour-
food of the horse bears to the labour-food of the man.
Let this same inquiry be extended to the labour
of the ox. Dr. Playfair states that a well-fed ox gets
50 lbs. mangel-wurzel, 3 lbs. of beans, and 17 lbs.
of wheaten straw per day, the whole containing 38:6
oz. of flesh-formers. The work of an ox has been
estimated at 8,640,000 foot pounds.
Work of horse in foot pounds = 12,400,000 _,.
, ox
= 8,640,000
that is, the work of the horse is 1'43 times that of
the ox.
But the labour-food of the horse, divided by the
labour-food of the ox, = 502 = 1:45.
That is, the labour-food of the horse is about as
many times greater than the labour-food of the ox as
his work is greater than the work of the ox.
It is said that railway contractors practically recog-
nise the principle of “food as an exponent of work”
by discharging those labourers whose appetites fail.
The quantity of food required per day to sustain
the body of an adult in a state of health is a problem
which has undergone considerable patient investiga-
tion by Dr. Pavy, F.R.S., whose recent work on Food


236
Buckmaster's Cookery.
working classes require a minimum supply of carbon-
aceous food containing 121 to 14 oz. of carbon. He
estimates the quantity of carbon actually consumed
per day at 25 grs. for every 1 lb. of the bodily weight.
In addition to this, a portion of carbon from the food
escapes by the bowel, making a total of 28 grs. of
carbon actually required as a minimum to sustain the
body of an adult weighing 150 lbs. in a state of per-
manent health.
In the case of an infant 136 grs. of carbon were
given daily for each 1 lb. of its weight, the infant thus
receiving three or four times as much carbon in pro-
portion to its weight as is ordinarily supplied to an
adult; and from a similarly extensive course of investi-
gations with respect to the quantities of nitrogen ex-
creted daily, we have the following results :-
NITROGEN EXCRETED DAILY./ NITROGEN CONSUMED IN
Middle and light
DAILY Foop.
labouring clas-
Light labouring in-door
ses . . . . about 200 grs. classes . . . . 183 grs
Middle and well-
Out-door labourers in
fed classes . 260 » 1 England . . . .242 ,,
There is a slight discrepancy in the above quantities
between the amount of nitrogen consumed and ex-
creted, the latter being in excess, which is not ex-
plained, nor is it very important.
Dr. E. Smith infers from these data that a lightly
occupied adult requires 200 grs., and an ordinarily
hard-working labourer 250 grs. of nitrogen per day
in his food.
The nitrogen actually assimilated or taken into the
blood was o'934 gr. to 1'4 gr. for each 1 lb, weight of


Food-Hunger and Thirst.
237
the body. Adding to this the amount daily passed off
in the refuse food, he estimates the total amount of
nitrogen required in the food per day at 1 to 1. gr.
for each 1 lb. of the weight of the body.
The nitrogen required by the infant for each 1 lb.
body weight is about six times that required by the
adult.
The reader will bear in mind the distinction between
the nitrogen and the nitrogenous substance consumed,
the latter being many times greater than the former.
Dr. Brinton gives the loss of albuminous or nitro-
genous substances at 1} oz. per day, or about 1 and
1,350th of the entire weight of the body, which must be
restored by food. He also states that a new-born infant
weighing 6 to 7 lbs., taking 10 to 12 oz. of milk per day,
introduces about 1-270th of its total bodily mass
daily.
The following table shows the quantity of salts re-
quired to supply the daily loss of these substances :-
QUANTITY OF SALINE CONSTITUENTS REQUIRED Daily.
Phosphoric acid ..
32 to 79 grs.
Chlorine
· 51 · 175
Sulphuric acid . . . . 17 - 41
,, 107 ,
Soda, . . . .
,, 171
· 21, 63,5
209) to 579) grs.
If the chlorine and sodium be reckoned together as
common salt, about 200 grs., or nearly half an ounce,
is required daily. But it must be recollected that the
greater portion of this substance is already contained
in the food, without any further addition of the mineral
itself.
Potash
.
.
.
.
Lime.


238
Buckmaster's Cookery.
Water can scarcely, in the accepted sense of the
term, be considered food, since in all probability the
water entering into the chemical composition of the
tissues is derived from the water chemically combined
with the food, yet it is an indispensable accompaniment
of most ordinary kinds of food. The quantity retained
in the body varies with exercise, temperature, &c. It
is retained in the body in much larger quantities dur-
ing rest than during activity; and the great reduction
in the bulk of the body which occurs during a course
of training for a pedestrian race, or a pugilistic contest,
is due to the loss of this fluid. Water is the essential
vehicle by which the food is conveyed into the system,
and by which the waste materials are removed out of
it. The quantity of water required to supply the
daily wants of the system, under conditions of mode-
rate exertion and temperature, is estimated at about
6 lbs., or nearly 5 pints.
Sub-
sistence
Diet.
Diet in
Quietude.
Diet of Diet Diet of
Adult
Hard-
in Full
worked
Health. Labourers. Labourers.
of
Flesh-formers
Fat . .
Starch. .
Starch equivt.
Carbon .
oz.
2'o
0:5
12'0
oz.
2'5
ΙΟ
12'0
14'4
74
oz.
4'2
1.8
18.7
22'0
119
oz.
595
2-5
2000
26'o
13:7
Oz.
6:5
2.5
20'0
260
13'2
6:1
143
A prize-fighter in training, who walked 17 miles
daily for exercise, consumed the following :-
Flesh-formers · · · · 9.9
· · · · ·
Starch.
· 31
.
. . . . 3'27 ,
Starch equivalent . . . . 10'70,,
Fat


Food-Hunger and Thirst.
239
Inorganic
Food may be defined, with sufficient accuracy for
all practical or scientific objects, as consisting of all
those nutritious substances which are taken into the
alimentary canal from the exterior of the body for the
purpose of being digested, and may be classified, ac-
cording to its nature and functions, under three divi-
sions, viz. :-1. Plastic or nitrogenous food, which
builds up, repairs, and nourishes the tissues. 2. Res-
piratory or fuel food, which sustains the animal heat.
3. Mineral food, consisting of minute quantities of
the alkaline and earthy salts.
The following table shows the different kinds of food
and their principal varieties :-
in Water.
Salts.
(Albumen )
i Fibrin.
Contains
. 1
oxygen,
(Plastic .? Gelatin (?).
J Casein . . 1
hydrogen,
Gluten.
carbon, and
.
nitrogen,
Organic . {
(Oleagi- Fats Contains
Respira. ) nous Oils / carbon,
1 tory. Saccharine (hydrogen,
(Starchy. :) oxygen.
Plastic Food is so called because it affords the
material out of which all the tissues are originally
formed, and by which they are subsequently repaired
and nourished. It is also termed flesh-forming, azo-
tized, nitrogenous, or albuminous food. This kind of
food has been described as exclusively consisting of
true nutriment, but there can be but little doubt that
some of the elements of the tissues are also derived
from the carbonaceous or heat-forming food.
Food.
(Legumin


Food-Hunger and Thirst,
243
13'00
13:83
RYE
Water,
| Gluten , 1079
Flesh.formers,
Albumen, 3041
Starch , S1'14)
Gum (!), 531
Heat-givers
Sugar , 374
( Fat. 095)
Woody fibre i
. .
Mineral matter , , ,
61'14
10:29
174
100'00
13'S
65
RICE,
Water,
Flesh-former (Gluten).
(Starch ,
Sugar
Heat-givers,
Gum .
(Fat,
Woody fibre
Mineral matter, . .
76'2
to
07)
Tol
33
O'S
1000
PEAS,
Water,
14'1
Flesh-former
234
(Casein or Cheese)
Starch , 370
) Sugar
20
Heat-givers,
90
5o'o
( Fat,
,
2:0)
Woody fibre
Mineral matter
100
,
1000
140
26'0
LENTILS,
Water,
Flesh-former (Castin),
(Starch ,
) Sugar ,
Heat-givers
(Fat , ,
Woody fibre ; .
Mineral matter, , .
35 )
30
yo
20
46'0
12'5
I'5
100'0


244
Buckmaster's Cookery.
Peas, beans, lentils, and other leguminous plants are
among the most highly nutritious substances known;
but they are very indigestible. The meal of the lentil
is more easily digested, and enters largely into the food
of many European countries.
Gluten, or vegetable fibrin, is the nitrogenous con-
stituent of cereal seeds. It forms the grey, sticky,
tenacious, tasteless substance which is left when flour
is made into a paste, and kneaded in a fine linen
bag, under a gentle stream of water, so long as the
water is rendered milky. It very much resembles
birdlime. The white substance washed away consists
of starch.
Legumin is identical in composition with the nitro-
genous principle of beans, peas, and lentils; if not
actually identical with casein, or cheese, it very closely
resembles it. The Chinese prepare a kind of cheese
from peas.
Heat-forming, respiratory, carbonaceous, or fuel
food abounds in carbon and hydrogen, the combus-
tion of which in the body develops and sustains the
animal heat. The chief respiratory foods are starch,
sugar, and the fats. In the two former the carbon
only is burnt, the hydrogen being already oxidized ;
in the latter the hydrogen as well as the carbon is
burnt; it is therefore a more powerful respiratory food
than the former. Starch and sugar contain oxygen in
the proportions in which they form water; that is, the
number of atoms of oxygen and hydrogen they con-
tain are equal. Fats contain a very large excess of
hydrogen, and but a small proportion of oxygen ; the
heat developed by the combustion of equal weights of


Food-Hunger and Thirst.
245
sugar and fat is therefore much greater in the case of
the latter than of the former.
In very cold regions the quantity of fat consumed
would scarcely be credited but for the known veracity
of the authorities by whom the facts are reported.
Sir John Franklin states that he tried how much fat
an Esquimaux lad about 14 years of age could eat.
The boy devoured 14 lbs. of tallow candles and a
piece of fat pork, and would have consumed more,
but Sir John felt he had already sacrificed enough for
the purpose of an experiment.
Butter possesses the general food properties of other
oils and fats ; in addition to which it has the property
of being exceedingly palatable, which accounts for its
extensive use. Though the fats are essentially heat-
forming, there can be but little doubt that they aid
nutrition by combining with the albuminous principles
of the blood (especially when, as in cases of consump-
tion, they are in excess), thereby rendering the blood
more plastic (increasing its tissue-forming power), and
preventing the formation of tubercle. The preventive
and curative agency of cod-liver oil in consumption is
attributed to this action. Every child should be
trained to eat fat at its meals; but treacle, which is
often used in the poorer families in place of butter,
is, especially during the colder months of winter, a
very inferior food substitute for it.
Stimulants are defined as substances which tem-
porarily increase the activity or force of the system,
or of a part of the system; the temporary excitement
being followed by a recoil or depression of greater or
less intensity, bearing proportion to the previous ex-


244 Bu
Buckmaster's Cookery."
Peas, beans, len
among the most If
d et. Dt. Anstie, in an able work recently pub-
but they are very i
son thus definition to be open to serious
is more easily diges
denn, et neimits of this little book will not
of many European
S u de eierence to this interesting subject.
Gluten, or vegeta
ou semiants in ordinary use are tea,
stituent of cereal :
, and spirits.
tenacious, tasteless
2 mies sãow the composition of tea
is made into a pa
bag, under a gentle
water is rendered
birdlime. The white
ere. 300 1800
of starch.
. 1500
Atomatic oil 0-75
Legumin is identic
u 300
genous principle of
om 1800
actually identical wit
resembles it. The (
from peas.
Heat-forming, res]
100'00
food abounds in car
12 000
tion of which in the
14750
animal heat. The ch
sugar, and the fats.
27'502
only is burnt, the hyc
in the latter the hydr
burnt; it is therefore a
than the former. Star
the proportions in whic
number of atoms of
tain are equal. Fats
hydrogen, and but a sn
heat developed by the si
2000
500
Branco
002
9000
.
.
4000
.
.
.
6700
100 000
sin describe the constituents of
e skürmers and heat-formers, it is
con chua they are not digested, and there
sich alle The use of these substances


Food-Hunger and Thirst,
247
i
5'O
really depends upon the palatable beverage and the
refreshing stimulus they afford, and not upon their
food-power. Their stimulating properties are chiefly
due to the theine or caffeine and the volatile oil they
contain.
Cocoa, which is frequently substituted for tea and
coffee, differs, however, greatly from them in affording
an exceedingly nutritious liquid food in place of mere
stimulating drinks. Its proximate chemical composi-
tion differs from that of tea and coffee principally in
the large quantity of fat and albumen it contains.
Theobromine is very similar to theine or caffeine in its
chemical qualities and composition.
CocoA.
Water . . .
| Albumen. 20'0!
Flesh-formers
Theobromine 201
50'0)
Heat-formers Gum . 60 63'0
(Starch .
Woody fibre :
Red colouring matter.
Mineral matter. . .
1000
The Alcoholic Stimulants, beer, wine, and spirits,
are neither useful nor economical as food; they de-
pend for their popular use on their stimulating pro-
perties, which are due to the alcohol they contain, and
which vary in degree according to the quantity of
alcohol present. Alcohol contains no nitrogen, and
therefore contains no flesh-forming principle, and can
add nothing to the substance of the decaying tissues.
It was formerly classed among the heat-forming foods,
and supposed to save the tissues by supplying the
22'0
Butter
G
G G܂
d
|
G G G
4 'O
2'0
4'0


248
Buckmaster's Cookery.
combustion material necessary to the development of
the animal heat ; but it was classed among these
bodies from purely theoretical considerations. Recent
experiments tend to show that alcohol undergoes no
chemical change in the body, that it does not become
oxidized in the system, but passes out unburnt as
alcohol, and therefore can neither have developed
heat nor have saved the tissues. Alcohol is said by
some writers to economize the tissues by arresting
waste; but recent experiments show that certain kinds
of spirit actually increase the waste of the system.
The testimony of all the great authorities who have
latterly had the opportunity of observing its effects on
masses of men exposed to excessive cold or heat, or
on those who are required to exert great and continuous
mental or muscular labour, is decidedly against the use
of these stimulants.
Condiments are substances taken with the food to
irnpart relish, or to stimulate the digestive organs. The
chief condiments used in this country are salt, mus-
tard, pepper, and ginger. They stimulate the action
of the salivary glands and the mucous coat of the
alimentary canal. With the exception of salt, the less
condiments are used in health the better, especially
by the young. Their free use produces artificial thirst,
and thus sometimes leads to the formation of drinking
habits.
The following table, which is founded upon the
results of Dr. Beaumont's experiments, is extracted
from Combe's “Physiology of Digestion:"-


Food-Hunger and Thirst.
249
h.
m.
TABLE SHOWING THE DIGESTIBILITY OF DIFFERENT KINDS
OF FOOD.
h. m.
Rice, boiled. 1 o Oysters, raw 2 55 Heart, fried . 4 0
Tripe , 1 o Eggs, soft- Fowl, boiled 4 o
Eggs, raw 1 30 boiled . . 3 o Veal, broiled 4 o
Apples, ripe, Beefsteak,
, Beef, hard,
raw. I 30 broiled . . 3 o old, salted,
Brains, boiled i 45 Mutton,
boiled . .4 15
Sago , 1 45 boiled. . 3 o Soup, beef,
Tapioca , 2 o Apple dump- , vegetables,
Milk , 2 ling, boiled 3 0 and bread. 4 0
Milk, raw . 2 15 Bread,
Soup, mar-
Eggs, roasted 2 151 wheaten 3 30 row-bones. 4 15
Gelatin, boiled 2 30 Butter, melted 3 30 Pork, salt,
Potatoes,
Cheese, old
boiled . .4 30
baked. . 2 30 and strcng. 3 30 Veal, fried .4 30
Mustard,
Potatoes,
Duck, roasted 4 30
baked . . 2 451 boiled . : 3 30 Suet, beef,
Apples, sour, Eggs, hard. I roasted . .5 3
raw . . . 2 50 boiled . :3 30 Pork, roasted 5 15
Nutritiousness and Digestibility, though generally
confounded in the popular estimation, are entirely
different properties. Some bodies, as cheese, consist
almost entirely of nutriment, but are exceedingly in-
digestible; others again, as rice, are exceedingly diges-
tible, but contain comparatively little nutriment.
Economical Admixture of Foods.—About 300 grains
of nitrogen and 4,600 grains of carbon are daily
thrown out of the system by the lungs, skin, kidneys,
and bowels. A well-arranged system of diet should
supply these elements in very nearly their due propor-
tion, and not compel us to take very much more of
the one element in order that we may obtain the re-
quisite supply of the other. Hence arises the economy
of the proper admixture of foods. If a man lived on
potatoes alone he would require at least 13 lbs. daily
to supply the required nitrogen; if on bread, he would


250
Buckmaster's Cookery.
require 4 lbs. ; while, on the other hand, if he lived on
meat alone, he would require 61 lbs. daily to supply
the necessary carbon ; whereas an admixture of 2 lbs.
of bread and lb. of meat would be amply sufficient,
thus economizing both food and digestive force.
Hunger.—The peculiar sensations consequent on
hunger would seem to refer it to the stomach; also
the fact that in the normal condition of the body
the feeling disappears on the introduction of food, or
even of indigestible and innutritious substances. It is
well known that some savage and half-civilized races
are in the habit of introducing clay, sawdust, and
other similar innutritious substances into the stomach
to allay the cravings of hunger, and in this country
tobacco is largely used for this purpose. The pangs
of hunger are thus probably somewhat allayed, but
the sense of emptiness and the faintness arising from
want of food remain.
Hunger has been variously attributed by different
physiologists to the following causes :-
(1.) Emptiness of the stomach.
(2.) The irritation of the coats of the stomach by
the gastric juice.
(3.) To the distension of the stomach follicles by
the gastric juice.
(4.) The wants of the system.
(5.) The capillary condition of the coats of the
stomach.
(6.) The subjective feeling consequent on the state
of the brain and nervous system. Dr. Mayo states
that a person may be hungry without a stomach and
thirsty without a throat.


Food-1/unger and Thirst.
251
Thirst. — Thirst, like hunger, is a general or systemic
sensation ; that is, a state of feeling brought about by
the wants of the system. Its more immediate or local
seat is the mucous membrane of the back of the
mouth, the fauces, and the top of the throat. Its
normal cause is a deficiency of fluid in the body; and
it may be immediately relieved by introducing water
into the system through an opening in the stomach,
through the intestines, through the skin, or by immer-
sion in a warm bath.
SUMMARY OF FOOD--HUNGER AND THIRST.
Food consists of substances taken into the stomach
for the purpose of digestion, or of conversion into
blood. Food is rendered necessary by the waste of the
system. Food is the primary source of nervous and
muscular power. Food which supplies calorific power
is termed heat-forming, respiratory, carbonaceous, or
fuel food; and consists of starchy, saccharine, or
oleaginous bodies which contain a preponderance of
carbon, or of carbon and hydrogen. Food which sup-
plies dynamical (mechanical and mental) power is
termed histogenetic (tissue-forming), nitrogenous,
azotized, proteinous, or albuminous; and consists of
substances which are comparatively rich in nitrogen,
as milk, eggs, flesh, cheese, peas, beans, and other
bodies containing fibrin, albumen, casein, or gluten.
A small portion of the respiratory food also pro-
bably contributes to the formation of the tissues ;
and likewise a portion of histogenetic or albuminous
food to the development of the animal heat.
The student and the hard-labouring professional


252
Buckmaster's Cookery.
man require even more histogenetic or tissue-forming
food than the ordinary physical labourer.
A due supply of animal food is necessary to the
development of a high civilization ; that is, to the
development of races who are capable of sustained
muscular and mental labour..
Alcohol, either strong or dilute, cannot possess any
histogenetic power from its deficiency of nitrogen ;
and, as far as the results of modern experiments can
show, is neither oxidized nor burnt in the system, and
therefore is probably neither a heat-former nor a flesh-
former. It is consequently deficient in true food-
power, or, in other words, can neither nourish the
body nor develop heat.
- A due mixture of heat-forming and flesh-forming
food is most beneficial, economizing both food and
digestive (vital or nervous) power.
An excess of animal food is much more injurious
than a corresponding excess of vegetable food.
Cooking renders food more savoury, wholesome,
and digestible, and destroys the parasitic animals
which might otherwise excite serious if not fatal
disease; it saves food, and enables the same amount of
digestive (vital) power to do more effective work, and
diminishes the quantity which would otherwise pass
away undigested.
Any system of instruction in cooking which does
not include some knowledge of the chemistry and
physiology of food must be defective. What is food ?
how is it converted into blood ? how does the blood
circulate ? and how is the body nourished and kept in
health ? are questions of the greatest importance in


Salads.
253
their relation to public health and morality, and
should be generally taught in all our schools.
SALADS.
Salads are a very simple and harmless luxury, and
they make an agreeable addition to our ordinary food,
and, if taken with plenty of oil, are very wholesome. In
this country we are perfect savages in the making of
salads. The dressing is often served up in a twisted
bottle, and the wet vegetables are heaped up on a dish
like food for cows, with the polite invitation to every
one to help himself. A salad properly prepared should
be one of the most attractive dishes on the table.
There are many little things necessary to secure a good
salad, and their variety is only limited by the inge-
nuity of the cook. The Spanish proverb is that four
persons are necessary to make a good salad,—"A
spendthrift for oil, a miser for vinegar, a barrister for
salt, and a madman to stir it up." Young ladies in
the country, where they have an abundance and
variety of vegetables, might render a national service
if they would turn their attention to salads as well as
to croquet. If you wish to preserve the crispness and
flavour of green vegetables for salads they should
be gathered either early in the morning or late in the
evening, and put in a cool damp place. To soak
green vegetables in water to keep them fresh, or to
keep up the appearance of freshness, is a mistake.
Lettuce, which is the chief thing in most green salads,
should be eaten young or the leaves are too strong for
a delicate salad, and if possible lettuce should never be
washed or cut with a steel knife : the best way is to


Salads.
253
their relation to public health and morality, and
should be generally taught in all our schools.
SALADS.
Salads are a very simple and harmless luxury, and
they make an agreeable addition to our ordinary food,
and, if taken with plenty of oil, are very wholesome. In
this country we are perfect savages in the making of
salads. The dressing is often served up in a twisted
bottle, and the wet vegetables are heaped up on a dish
like food for cows, with the polite invitation to every
one to help himself. A salad properly prepared should
be one of the most attractive dishes on the table.
There are many little things necessary to secure a good
salad, and their variety is only limited by the inge-
nuity of the cook. The Spanish proverb is that four
persons are necessary to make a good salad,—"A
spendthrift for oil, a miser for vinegar, a barrister for
salt, and a madman to stir it up.” Young ladies in
the country, where they have an abundance and
variety of vegetables, might render a national service
if they would turn their attention to salads as well as
to croquet. If you wish to preserve the crispness and
flavour of green vegetables for salads they should
be gathered either early in the morning or late in the
evening, and put in a cool damp place. To soak
green vegetables in water to keep them fresh, or to
keep up the appearance of freshness, is a mistake.
Lettuce, which is the chief thing in most green salads,
should be eaten young or the leaves are too strong for
a delicate salad, and if possible lettuce should never be
washed or cut with a steel knife: the best way is to


256
Buckmaster's Cookery.
FISH SALAD. X
Ingredients.
Lettuce. Cucumber. Beetroot. Cold fish.
Tarragon. Chervil. Sorrel. Mayonaise sauce.
Hard-boiled eggs. Endive. Nasturtium flowers.
Watercress.
Take the remains of any cold boiled fish and cut them
into small scollops about two inches, and dip them
into mayonaise sauce; wash if necessary two freshly-
gathered young Goss lettuce, a little endive and water-
cress, and drain over a colander and dry in a clean
cloth by shaking to remove all the water; break up
the lettuce, watercress, and endive into pieces about
three-quarters of an inch in length, mince a small
sprig of chervil, two leaves of tarragon, and a few
leaves of sorrel, peel and slice one cucumber and one
beetroot, mix all together thoroughly, and begin by
rubbing the dish with garlic; now arrange at the
foundation a layer of the green vegetables, then a
layer of cold fish, meat, chicken, lobster, shrimp, fowl,
or game; now a thin layer of mayonaise sauce, then
a layer of vegetables, and so on, finishing with
mayonaise sauce, and garnishing with nasturtium
flowers; some of the beetroot and cucumber may be
reserved to arrange alternately round the edge of the
dish, and hard-boiled eggs, or olives or aspic jelly may
also be introduced : this makes a very pretty founda-
tion. With all fish salads mayonaise sauce should be
served in a boat.
Precautions.—The mayonaise sauce must be good
and the vegetables fresh, and taste should be shown
in the arrangement of the materials.
Hoflahad fluctuat
. Ar ture as it can be in Holla
Said anath. a stb alada


Tomato Salad.
257
1
257
LETTUCE SALAD.
Ingredients.
Lettuce. Tarragon. Eggs. Oil. Eschalot.
Vinegar. Cress.
If necessary wash two lettuces, dry them thoroughly
in a cloth, and break the leaves or cut them with a
silver knife into convenient pieces; put the yolks of
two hard-boiled eggs into a basin (not boiled more
than eight or nine minutes or the yolks will be dark-
coloured), with a teaspoonful of dry mustard, pepper
and salt to taste, and one tablespoonful of oil; work
the mixture into a smooth paste and add gradually
three tablespoonfuls of oil and two of vinegar; when
mixed to the consistency of cream add two or three
leaves of tarragon, and one small eschalot finely min-
ced, and the whites of the two eggs cut into half-inch
dice, then add the lettuce and a small handful of garden
cress, and when the sauce is thoroughly mixed with
the vegetables the salad is ready.
Precautions.-See that you have young tender
lettuce, and be careful to mix the sauce thoroughly
before adding the vegetables.
TOMATO SALAD.
Ingredients.
Tomatoes. Oil. Vinegar. Mustard. Basil.
Take six tomatoes, but not too ripe to handle, cut
them into slices and remove all the seeds, rub a dish
with garlic, and lay them in a mixture of oil and vinegar
in the proportion of two of oil to one of vinegar;
sprinkle pepper and salt over them according to taste,
and a few leaves of fresh basil finely ininced. Let
S
Kand of the
new eres nuk with cel and


258
Buckmaster's Cookery.
them lie in the sauce for two hours, and the salad is
ready.
Precautions.-Be careful in the selection of the
tomatoes and well free them from seed.
POTATO SALAD.
Ingredients.
Boiled potatoes. Capers. Tarragon. Thyme.
Parsley. Garlic. Oil. Vinegar.
Cold boiled potatoes make a very good salad. Take
one pound, cut them into slices the thickness of a
penny, arrange them neatly on a dish which has been
rubbed with eschalot or garlic. Mince equal quan-
tities of capers and parsley, two or three leaves of
tarragon and thyme, altogether about a tablespoonful,
add oil and vinegar in the proportion of two of oil to
one of vinegar, and pepper and salt to taste; work
all well together, and pour over the potatoes.
Precautions.--For this salad the potatoes should be
dry and well boiled.
CAULIFLOWER SALAD.
Ingredients.
Boiled cauliflower. Tarragon. Chervil. Capers.
Parsley. Garlic. Thyme. Marjoram.
Oil. Vinegar.
Boil a cauliflower till tender, but not so as to break
in pieces; when cold cut it up neatly into small sprigs.
Beat up three tablespoonfuls of oil added gradually to
one tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar and half a table-
spoonful of common vinegar, add pepper and salt to
taste. Rub the dish very slightly with garlic ; arrange
the pieces of cauliflower on it, strew over them some


260
Buckmaster's Cookery.
nearly filled with cold water. Let the water come to
the boil and skim it most carefully, then let it simmer
for eight or nine hours, occasionally adding a little
boiling water to prevent the liquor from evaporating too
much. At the end of this time there will be from
three to four quarts of stock, which should be strained
through a hair sieve into a basin and then removed to
a cool place. The next morning remove all the fat,
wash the jelly with warm water and wipe it with a
clean cloth. Clarify the jelly by putting it into a stew-
pan with one pound and a half of lump-sugar, three-
quarters of an ounce of cinnamon, six cloves, a
teaspoonful of coriander seeds, the juice of eight
lemons, and half a bottle of good sherry. If the
jelly is to be used for fruit or liqueurs, the wine,
cloves, lemon, and coriander seed must be omitted,
and ten lemons used instead of eight.
Take the whites only of six eggs and one whole
egg, whip them up in a basin, and then add a pint
of the warm jelly and mix with the whipped eggs,
stirring from right to left all the time. Pour the whole
into the stewpan with the remainder of the jelly and
continue stirring till it comes to the boil, simmer for
fifteen minutes, dip the jelly-bag into boiling water,
wring it out and put the peel of two lemons into it.
Arrange the bag by tying it securely to two chairs,
placed back to back a convenient distance apart, in a
place free from dirt and dust. Strain the jelly through
into a basin ; repeat this two or three times till the
jelly is quite clear, and then put it aside in a cool
place till it is wanted. Cow heels may be used instead
of calf's feet, but the jelly is not so delicate.


268
Buckmaster's Cookery.
- ----
who subscribes ten guineas for so good an object,
comes off cheaply and cheerfully compared with those
who have to work out these details to a satisfactory
result. Every day, except Saturday, the daughters of
noblemen, the wives and daughters of clergymen,
domestic servants, and persons qualifying to teach
others, assemble in this school from ten to four,
and receive practical instruction in cooking ; our
great difficulty is in obtaining suitable persons to
qualify as teachers. We want this cookery to grow
into a part of our national education, so that no
woman in future shall waste her husband's substance
from ignorance. If we had the convenience, instead
of teaching twenty, which is all we can accommo-
date, the number might easily be increased to a
hundred without any great addition in the cost of
management. We require every person attending
this school, without any regard to their station in
life, to learn, in the first place, how to light and
manage a fire, to clean the fire-place, to whiten
the hearth, to regulate the dampers, to manage an
oven, to know the principles involved in the construc-
tion of Kitcheners and patent fire-places, the relative
advantages of an open or closed range, the elemen-
tary principles of heat, the advantages and disadvan-
tages of gas-stoves. When these have been mastered,
we proceed to a matter of the first importance-the
most scrupulous cleanliness in pots and pans, which
is the cardinal virtue of all cookery, and the best
method of cleaning them ; the advantages and dis-
advantages of enamel, tin, copper, iron, and porcelain
crepans.


The Cookery School.
269
We then proceed to the proper tests for regulating
the temperature of water and fat; how to clarify fat;
the difference between simmering and boiling, between
boiling and stewing, between broiling and frying, and
the use of the Bain-marie and Captain Warner's
cooking pot. When these elementary principles have
been mastered-and it takes but little time, with an
intelligent person under a good teacher--we proceed
to the pot-au-feu---the preparation of stock soups
and broths, roasting, braising, boiling, entrées, vege-
tables, jellies, ices, creams, sauces, fried and boiled
fish, omelettes and soufflers, pastry, puddings, pies,
sick-room cookery; and I have no hesitation in say-
ing, that any pupil, teacher, or young person of
average intelligence, could learn to do all these
things perfectly and thoroughly in three months.
You may forget a piece of music, or your French,
but you will never forget your cooking. A cookery
school, then, is a place where the theory and the practice
of cooking are taught by means of lectures, examina-
tions, and practical work. Cooking must be taught as
you would teach chemistry, or any other experimental
science; for cookery, rightly understood, is an experi-
mental science. The chemistry and physiology of
food should also be taught ; this would instruct us in
the true nature and functions of food. The wide-spread
ignorance on this subject, not only among the poor,
but among all classes, is a wide-spread misfortune.
You may fill the stomach without nourishing the body,
and in nothing is this ignorance more evident than in
the purchase of fat bacon and pork and potatoes
among the labouring classes. There is some sense


270
Buckmaster's Cookery.
in peas-pudding and fat pork, but none in potatoes
and fat bacon. You cannot feed persons on these
things without a gradual physical deterioration of the
race.
The family dinner of every poor man ought to be a
daily social elevating influence—a time when men
exchange with their wives and children the courtesies
of civilized life, and there is nothing to prevent the
poorest labourer striving for such a civilization; and
in this striving we have the hope and earnest of a
better future. I wish the poor of this country could
see the homes of some of the French peasantry. Be
the food ever so plain or simple, with a few wild
flowers and a clean cloth, is a constant refining, elevating
influence in every house. I do not mean eating to
excess, because gluttony, like drunkenness, is to be
avoided as a sin. How many political questions and
marriages have been settled over a dinner. Of all the
| influences of domestic life, it is undisputably the
highestYou may civilize a savage by feeding him, and
in no country is a good dinner more appreciated than
in England; and in no country, among the middle and
working classes, is good cooking so exceptional.
In every decent house a dinner should be regarded as
the principal daily event of the family, a time for moral
expansion, when persons meet not only to dine, but
to laugh, to talk, to delight each other by wit and
pleasant conversation, as well as to satisfy their
hunger. Eating, then, is not the only purpose of a
dinner; nor does an ordinary every-day dinner require
a profound knowledge of cooking, it is only on special
occasions that you require professional skill; and my


272
Buckmaster's Cookery.
would she purchase the same sort of vegetables to be
eaten alone as those to be used in a soup, of the
same meat for stewing as for roasting. When a sauce
is to hide the inferiority and ugliness of a dish,
there is no occasion to spend money on good looks.
I ess fuel is required for a small dish than a large one,
and never have a larger fire than is necessary. The
economy of feeding a family consists in avoiding
expensive articles of food, and depending more on
cheaper ones. If you place a joint of cooked meat
at 18. 6d. per pound before a farnily and let them eat
till they are satisfied, you have an expensive meal ;
(but if you begin with a little soup and bread or
vegetables, which partially satisfy the appetite, a
touch smaller quantity of meat will be sufficient and
it follows that such a meal will be cheaper in propor-
tion, as soup, bread, and vegetables are cheaper
than meat, always having regard to the food value
of your materials. Living on meat is now the most
costly and extravagant of all living, and in this
country we know of only four methods of cooking
it-toasting, frying, boiling, and that horror of all
households, hashed meat. We can roast a joint of
meat equal to, or better, than any Frenchman ; we can
sometimes fry a pair of soles fairly; we can also boil,
which is often one of the most wasteful kinds of
cooking, and here our resources fail. To boil our
I food is to extract its flavour, its essences, and its
juices, and a considerable portion of its nutritive
properties in the water. In every other country this
process is called making soup, which we despise, and
so extensively is this principle applied that even


French Cooking:
273
water in which haricot beans, cauliflowers, and
cabbages have been boiled, is always kept to make
a basis for a vegetable soup. Every liquid which
has extracted the flavour of any boiled substance is
looked upon as too valuable to be wasted. In this
country it is common, after we have carefully
extracted much of the flavour, gelatine, albumen,
and fat from turkeys, fowls, beef, legs of mutton,
green peas and beans, to carefully throw away the
dirty water in which they have been boiled. This
waste in the aggregate is enormous, because we have
a senseless prejudice against swallowing soups and
broths, which have been described as hot water stirred
with a tallow candle. Now the fundamental principle
of every sensible woman is, or ought to be, that every-
thing which is in food ought to be eaten; that the
whole of the nourishment should be carefully pre-
served in every food substance, and digested in the
stomach, instead of being sent down the drain. We
are none the better fed because we purchase more
meat, and eat on an average about twenty-five pounds
more, than any other nation. Except the harder
sorts of vegetables, the French boil very little ; from
Dunkerque to Bayonne, from Nice to Strasbourg,
nothing goes into the saucepan except to make a
soup; but then the people live chiefly on soups.
Meat is too expensive for men whose wages are far
below the poorest agricultural labourer in Suffolk,
and so they live on soups, stews, a little pork, beans,
potatoes, and bread, and from these they make
wholesome, nourishing meals; not a scrap is lost,
everything finds its way into the stomach, and a
т


274
Buckmaster's Cookcry.
Picardy peasant, with very scanty materials, will live
and enjoy life like a Christian much better than
many a small farmer in this country. The cooking
in French hotels and restaurants gives no idea of
the excellent cooking in private houses in Picardy,
Orleans, and Burgundy. There are too many artifices
and too much coarse flavouring in restaurants and
hotels which destroy the individuality of the thing
cooked. The best French cooking is not to be had
in Paris, except in a few houses; and as we ascend in
the scale so we find the same principle: cook every-
thing, eat everything, and waste nothing.
I have often spoken in this school against wasteful-
ness. The waste of food through ignorance is to
be pitied and partly excused, but when food is wilfully
wasted it is a sin against God. One Sunday in
August I walked through Hyde Park, and not far
from the spot where men speechify on the short-
comings of governments, and within a few yards of
churches and chapels, and rich people's houses, I saw
at least two bushels of broken pieces of mouldy bread
and the remains of joints of meat sufficiently good a
few days before to have provided a dinner for twenty
or thirty persons. A few hungry dogs—and there are
fewer hungry dogs in London than hungry men—were
gnawing vigorously at the bones; ugly, well-to-do
dogs, with silk and velvet collars and silver bells, came
and smelt and then passed on. The sparrows flew
backwards and forwards from the trees, and ladies in
gorgeous dresses, with ivory and gold Prayer-books,
carried by well-fed servants, held up their heads and
flounced by this shameful heap as if it were a load of


Waste.
275
stones; no look of shame, no word of sorrow, although
many of them had just returned from places where
they had been to ask and thank God for their daily
bread. No one seemed struck with the wickedness of
this waste. For some time I watched the crowd as it
passed on, but no one looked on this mouldy heap.
At last one old man, on whose head time had begun
to shed its prophetic snow, collected a few pieces and
carried them away a little distance in his battered
hat; he sat down on the grass and began to eat
his Sunday dinner. I obtained a bag and collected
some of the pieces, and I have brought them here for
you to see. I do not want you to indulge in any
common-place words of sorrow; I want you to look
well to the ways of your own households, and set
your hearts and faces against wastefulness. This
bread and meat came not from the poor but the
wealthy, a clear-out in the dead of night probably,
and thrown over the railings before the family left.
For eight months in the year the husbandman
labours with anxious thought through seed-time and
harvest, and when the corn is gathered in, he rejoices
because God has blessed and rewarded his labours.
Churches, in accordance with an old Anglo-Saxon
custom, are decorated with sheaves of wheat, barley,
oats, flowers, and fruit, and you are invited to meet
together and sing praises to Him who giveth food to
all flesh; and when I reflect on the sunshine, and
rain, and labour necessary to cultivate the earth and
make it bring forth its increase, and the toil of the
poor man to obtain bread in sufficient abundance
without waste for his family, I feel there is a peculiar
T 2


278
Buckmaster's Cookery.
65,000 persons, and delivered 387 lectures. I have en-
deavoured, in my humble way, according to my light,
to do my best. I have laboured with earnestness and
faith in a field hitherto uncultivated; others may come
in and reap where I have sowed, but as the rain and
snow from the heavens doth not return, but moisteneth
the earth, and maketh it generate and put forth its
increase that it may give seed to the sower and bread
to the cater, so shall be the words sown in faith;
they shall not return fruitless, but shall effect what
God hath willed, and make the purpose succeed for
which He hath sent it.
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS ON THE MAN-
NER OF REGULATING THE SERVICE OF
THE TABLE, FOR ORDINARY DINNERS,
AND ALSO FOR DINNERS OF INVITA-
TIONS.
THE choice and arrangement of dishes for a
dinner are often a matter of embarrassment to
many housekeepers. In order to assist them, I give
below some short and general instructions concerning
the best and cheapest method of preparing the ordi-
nary family dinner for the several days of the week,
and a few menus for dinners given on special occa-
sions.
The breakfast, being a meal of secondary import-
ance, I shall only say that the remains of the dinner
can always be used at the next day's breakfast, by
adding eggs, vegetables, fish, or bacon.


Ordinary Dinners.
ORDINARY DINNERS.
MONDAY.–Pot-au-feu ; with half of the broth, a
verricelli or other soup could be made. The beef
could be served with small cucumbers, cabbages, or
other vegetables. A roast rabbit, and a salad ; or the
rabbit fricasseed, with a dish of vegetables of any
kind. Some apples cooked with butter and sugar.
Observations.-The remains of the beef can be pre-
pared in innumerable ways for breakfast next day;
and the remains of the rabbit, if roasted, served cold;
if fricasseed, warmed up.
TUESDAY.–With the other half of Monday's broth,
prepare a rice soup. A piece of braised beef or veal
with small carrots. A dish of vegetables in season,
or a fish. For dessert some stewed fruit.
Observations. The remains of the veal can be
served cold next day for breakfast, with some ham.
WEDNESDAY.—A “ soup maigre." A piece of mut-
ton braised or baked, with small potatoes around, in
an oven ; or a “haricot of mutton.” A dish of vege-
tables or a salad. Cheese, fruit, or jams.
THURSDAY.-Pot-au-feu; use half of the broth to
make a pea-soup. The beef may be served with
tomato sauce or purée of onions. A fricassee of
chicken, or of some other fowl. French beans or
green peas. A pudding of cherries or other fruit.
Observations.-For next morning's breakfast hash
the remains of the beef, and cook it in the oven, in a
dish ; serve it with some fried eggs on the top.
FRIDAY.—Make a “julienne soup” with the other
part of the broth remaining since Thursday. Salmon


280
Buckmaster's Cookery.
or turbot. Eggs with sorrel or spinach. Mutton or
veal cutlets, with fried potatoes. For dessert, rice
and milk.
SATURDAY.—Pot-au-feu ; soup, tapioca, or other
Italian pastes. The beef to be served with a few
vegetables, such as small turnips, carrots, &c., boiled
in the “pot-au-feu.” Fish, with boiled potatoes.
Cheese and pastry.
SUNDAY.—It is better to have a simple dinner in
order to avoid much cooking. A soup with the broth
remaining from Saturday. The rest of the beef. A
roast chicken, with water-cresses. Cheese and fruit,
or jam of any kind.


llenus.
281
DINNERS OF INVITATION,
JANUARY
These Menus have been supplied by a friend, and are intended as
helps in the preparation of small dinners for eight or twelve
persons.
Chantilly Soup.
Sweetbreadsà la jardinière
Soles au gratin.
Roast Pheasant
Roast Goose with purée Dressed Spinach.
of Chestnuts.
Apple Charlotte.
Cutlets of Mutton à la
Vicomtesse,
Chantilly Soup. See page 40.
Soles au gratin. See page 117.
Roast Goose with purée of Chestnuts :-
Roast a goose according to the instructions given
page 213.
The preparation of the chestnut purée is as fol-
lows:-Remove the outer skin of about twenty large
chestnuts, scald them, scrape off carefully all the inner
skin ; put into a saucepan with the chestnuts half a
pint of milk, and boil them gently; when soft, drain
away the milk, and rub them immediately through a
sieve. Put the pulp in a stewpan with a little butter,
a pinch of powdered sugar, a quarter of a gill of
cream, with pepper and salt; stir over the fire until
quite hot (not boiling), and serve with the goose.
Cutlets of Mutton d la Vicomtesse : -As described
page 220, with eggs and bread crum'


282
Buckmaster's Cookery.
Sweetbreads à la Jardinière :-
Preparation of the sweetbreads according to the
instructions page 223.
The sweetbreads must be arranged in order over a
proper quantity of jardinière, which is prepared as
follows :--Scrape some carrots, and peel the same
number of young turnips; and with a vegetable cutter
shape the carrots and turnips into the form of peas,
small olives or other fancy shapes; boil them in a
little broth; when done, drain them and put them
in a saucepan with about the same quantity of green
peas, French beans, asparagus peas, and sprigs of cauli-
flowers : these vegetables must have been previously
cooked and well drained. The gravy from the sweet-
breads must be poured over this mixture of vegetables.
Roast Pheasant. See page 211.
Dressed Spinach. See page 196.
Apple Charlotte. See page 183.
FEBRUARY.
Ox-tail Soup.
Boiled Turbot.
Boiled Leg of Mutton
(with Caper Sauce).
| Fricassee of Chickens
with Mushrooms.
Roasted Snipes.
Omelette Soufflée.
Ox-tail Soup. See page 47, 48.
Boiled Turbot. See page 120.


Menus.
283
Boiled Leg of Mutton with Caper Sauce. See page
214.
Fricassee of Chickens with Mushrooms. See page
215 (Fowl).
Roast Snipe :
Pick them thoroughly, and take the skin of the
head, cut off the wings; twist the legs so as to bring
the feet behind the thighs; pass the bill through the
thighs and body; then singe them carefully. Cover
them with rashers of bacon tied round; roast them
before a clear fire for twenty or twenty-five minutes.
Place under them as many pieces of toasted bread as
you have birds, so that the gravy shall fall on the
bread; baste the birds frequently. Serve them on a
dish with a piece of toast under each bird, and garnish
with watercresses round.
Omelette Soufflée. See page 188.
MARCH.
Potato Soup.
Roast Chickens.
Trout à la Maître d'Hôtel. | Cauliflower with White
Roast Breast of Lamb. I Sauce.
Pigeons en Compote. | Lemon Custard.
Potato Soup. See page 52.
Trout à la Maître d'Hôtel :-


284
Buckmaster's Cookery.
Prepare and boil a trout according to the instruc-
tions given page 114, for boiling salmon.
The maître d'hôtel must be prepared as given on
pages 134 and 135, and served separately in a sauce-
boat.
Roast Breast of Lamb. See page 210.
Pigeons en Compote :-
Follow exactly the instructions given on page 73,
“Stewed Pigeons (1).”
Roast Chickens. See page 213,“ Roast Fowl.”
Cauliflower with White Sauce :-
Prepare and boil the cauliflowers according to the
instructions given on page 195.
When sufficiently boiled, drain them, and dish up
so that the flower only may be seen ; pour some white
sauce over and serve.
To prepare a white sauce (or maître d'hôtel):—Put
about two 'ounces of fresh butter into a very clean
saucepan, and the yolks of two eggs, a little salt, and a
teaspoonful of good vinegar (the juice of a lemon is
much better); place the saucepan over a slow fire,
and stir with a wooden spoon until the butter is quite
melted and mixed with the eggs (it must not boil);
add to it a little chopped parsley, and use the sauce
at once, if not, it is liable to curdle. For this reason,
the sauce, which is very delicate, and quickly prepared,
must be made at the very moment it is wanted.
Lemon Custard. See page 179.


Menus.
285
APRIL.
Spring Soup.
| Lamb Cutlets, Asparagus
Red Mullets, baked. I
Peas.
Boiled Fowls, Oyster Roast Leg of Mutton.
Sauce or Béchamel Spinach with Cream.
Sauce.
Sweet Omelette.
Spring Soup:-
Follow instructions given for a vegetable soup, on
page 51. This soup must be made, as its name im-
plies, with spring vegetables only. When it is ready
to be served, add some asparagus peas and green peas
previously boiled.
Red Mullets baked. See page 124.
Lamb Cutlets, Asparagus Peas. See page 220,
“Mutton Cutlets.”
Prepare the “asparagus peas” as follows :-Cut the
green part into small pieces, the shape of peas, boil
them carefully, drain them free from all moisture, add
an ounce of butter, a little pepper and salt, a pinch of
sugar, and a tablespoonful of white sauce ; stir the
contents of the saucepan gently over the fire till the
butter is melted, garnish your cutlets with the asparagus
peas, and serve.
Roast Leg of Mutton. See page 209.
Spinach with Cream :-
Prepare the spinach according to directions, page
186, and then add a gill of cream, an ounce of fresh


Menus.
287
French Beans with fine Herbs :-
After having boiled them (see page 200) they must
be drained on a colander; then put in a saucepan two
pats of fresh butter with some finely chopped parsley
and two eschalots, salt, pepper, and the juice of a
lemon; simmer over the fire until melted, put in the
beans, and toss all together, and dish up with or with-
out croûtons arranged round the dish.
Strawberry Ice Cream. See page 261.
JUNE.
Purée of Asparagus Soup. | Veal à la Bourgeoise.
Sturgeons or Dory | Roast Turkey.
grilled, Piquante Green Peas à la Pay-
Sauce.
sanne.
Boiled Capons à la Bain-Marie Pudding.
Béchamel..
Purée of Asparagus Soup. See page 45.
Sturgeons or Dory grilled, Sauce piquante :-
After your fish is prepared according to the instruc-
tions given for “ Broiled Salmon," page 115, pour over
some "piquante sauce,” pages 132 and 133, accord-
ing to taste.
Boiled Capon à la Béchamel :-
After the capon is boiled (see page 214, “ Boiled


290
Buckmaster's Cookery.
of stock for a middle-size duck, salt, pepper, and a
bouquet garni. Return the duck to the gravy, and
when it is half done put in the turnips; turn the duck
over once or twice, and be careful not to break the
turnips. When cooked skim away the fat and serve
very hot.
Macaroni d la Milanaise :-
Put into boiling water a pound of best macaroni,
with a piece of butter, a little salt, and an onion with
a clove stuck in it; when done, drain it over a colander;
put in a saucepan a quarter of a pound of grated
gruyère, and as much parmesan cheese, a very little
nutmeg and pepper, three or four tablespoonfuls of
cream, now add the macaroni ; stir all together over a
slow fire. When properly mixed, dress it on a dish
in the form of a dome, and pour over a rather thick
tomato sauce.
Roast Beef à l'Anglaise. See page 207.
New Potatoes with Cream :-
Boil new potatoes (see page 190). Put in a sauce-
pan a piece of butter, a spoonful of flour, chopped
parsley, eschalots, salt, pepper, and a little nutmeg;
when well mixed, add some good cream : stir until it
comes to the boil ; cut the potatoes into slices, throw
them into the sauce. Keep the saucepan on a slow
fire for five minutes and serve.
Raspberry and Currant Ice Cream. See page 263.


292
Buckmaster's Cookery.
and simmer for ten minutes, stir the saucepan now and
then over the fire (the tomatoes must not be broken).
When cooked, add a little butter (the size of a walnut),
melt it slowly, and then pour the tomatoes over the
pigeons.
Roast Grouse. See page 211.
Purée of Green Peas :-
Prepare your purée (see “Green Pea Purée Soup,”
page 32), but instead of stock add a piece of fresh
butter, salt, and pepper.
Pudding of Green Gages, or other fresh fruit :-
Line a pudding basin with suet crust rolled out to
the thickness of about half an inch; fill the basin
with the fruit, put in the sugar, and cover with crust.
Fold the edges over, and pinch them together to pre-
vent the juice from escaping. Tie over a floured
cloth, put the pudding into boiling water, and boil
from two to two and a half hours. Turn it out of
the basin, and serve quickly.
SEPTEMBER.
à
la
Vermicelli Soup.
Fried Whitings.
Roast Hind-quarter of
Lamb.
Jugged Hare.
Roast Capon.
Tomatoes farcies
Provençale.
Pudding of Fruit.
Vermicelli Soup. See page 53.
Fried Whitings. See page 121.


294
Buckmaster's Cookery.
OCTOBER.
Soup Bonne Femme.
Fillets of Salmon à la
Montebello.
Braised Leg of Mutton.
Omelettes with fine Herbs.
Roast Pheasant.
Brussels Sprouts.
Meringue Apple and Rice.
Soup Bonne Femme. See page 41.
Fillets of Salmon à la Montebello :-
Prepare some slices of salmon, not more than two-
thirds of an inch thick, cut them in the form of ovals.
Put some butter in a fryingpan, and when warm add
the slices of salmon, with salt and pepper. Stir into
a clean saucepan five or six table spoonfuls of good
stock; then add the butter in which the slices of salmon
have been fried, with a little chopped parsley, pre-
viously blanched, a very little grated nutmeg, and the
juice of a lemon. Stir in the yolks of two or three
eggs, drain for a minute or two the slices of salmon on
a sieve; now arrange them in the form of a circle or
oval on a dish and pour the hot sauce over and
serve.
Braised Leg of Mutton. See page 214.
Omelettes with fine Herbs. See “ Plain Omelettes,"
page 185.
Roast Pheasant. See page 211.
Brussels Sprouts. See page 196.
Meringue Apple and Rice. See page 181.


Menus.
297
lets,” page 220. See for preparation of " Jardinière,”
ist menu, page 281.
Roast Partridges. See page 211.
Purée of Chestnuts. See “ Chestnut Purée," ist
menu, page 281.
Plum Pudding: -
One pound of flour, one pound of bread crumbs,
three-quarters of a pound of raisins, the same of cur-
rants and suet, three or four eggs, milk, two ounces of
candied peel, one teaspoonful of powdered allspice,
half a teaspoonful of salt. Chop the suet very fine,
stone the raisins, wash, pick, and dry the currants,
mix these with the other dry ingredients, and stir all
well together ; beat and strain the eggs to the
pudding, stir these in, and add just sufficient milk to
make it properly. Tie it up in a well-floured cloth,
put it into boiling water, and boil for at least five
hours.


INDEX.
Broth, Scotch, 37
Brussels sprouts, 196
Addington, manor of, 5
Butter, maître d'hôtel, 134
Anglo-Saxon, meat of, 3
melted, 128
principal meal of, 4
use of, 25, 28
Apple, Charlotte, 182
meringue, 181
pie, 174
Asparagus, boiled, 197
peas, 285
Augustine, mission of, 3
Cabbage, 196
Australian meat, croquettes of, 107 Cakes, ginger, 176
gravy soup from, plain, 175
106
seed, 175
Julienne soup Calves' kidneys, 218
from, 106
liver, 219
lecture on, 101 Canterbury, monks of, 6
Caramel, how to prepare, 23
Carrots, 197
with ham or bacon, 198
Cauliflowers au gratin, 195
boiled, 195
Bacon and haricot beans, 223 Charcoal, 18
Batter for frying, 117
Charlotte apple, 182
Beans, French, 200
Russe, 183
with fine herbs, 287 Cheese, stewed, 83
haricot, 223
Chestnut, purée of, 281
Beef, boiled, 206
Chickens à la Marengo, 286
composition of, 241
Clergy, regular and secular, 6
ribs of, 208
Coal, 18
rump of, 207
Cod, boiled, 122
sirloin of, 207
salt, 123
Beef à-la-mode, 83
Cokes, family of the, 5
Bouilli, 29, 206
Colcannon, 199
Bouquet garni, how to make, 26 Cooking, an experimental science, 9
Broiling, 203
early English, 1
Broth, Brabant, 38
" 1 perfection
how to keep, 24
mutton, 37
French, 8


Index.
299
Creams, ginger ice, 264
lemon ice, 264
Italian ice, 264
pine apple ice, 263
raspberry and currant,
263
strawberry ice, 261
Crust, suet, 163
Curries, 97
Curry-powder, 97
Custards, 177
Cutlets, mutton, 220
veal, 220
Fowls, boiled, 216
curried, 98
fricasseed, 215
marinaded, 217
roast, 213
stewed, 74
Fritters, apple, 265
D.
Diet of children, 87
Dress, 61
Duck, roast, 212
braised with tur
Glaze, how to prepare, 226
how to use, 227
Gluten, properties of, 244
Goose, roast, 213
Gooseberry fool, 184
trifle, 184
Gravy, 224
Grouse, roast, 211
Guinea fowls, roast, 212
H.
E.
Eels, stewed, 71
Egg and bread-crumb, 118
Eggs, curried, 99
snow, 176
Entertainments, 6
Hare, jugged, 77
Haricot beans, 223
Herbs, dried, 26
how to preserve, 27
Hotch-potch, 72
Houses, construction of, 13
of the working classes, II
Hunger and thirst, 250, 251
F.
Farinaceous food, 155
Ices, cherry water, 263
Fires, how to light, 17
clarified sugar for, 262
uniform, 17
Fish croquettes, 125
currant, 263
selection of, 113
ginger, 264
temperature for frying, 'II2
Italian, 264
Flour, analysis of, 241
lemon water, 263
Food, an exponent of work, 232
raspberry, 263
strawberry, 261
definition of, 239
digestibility of, 249
| Instructions, general, 27
economic admixture of, 249
for ordinary dinners,
lecture on, 228
lecture on function of, 85
plastic, 239
summary of, 251
Fool, gooseberry, 184
Jardinière, 281
Forcemeat, chestnut, 225
Jellies, aspic, 224
to prepare, 171 : 1 calf's foot, 259
278
J.


Index.
301
| Rice, meringue, 181
pudding, baked, 180
souffle, 181
Rissoles, 173
Pie, hunter's, 71
pigeon, 163
squab, 170
steak, 170
veal and ham, 171, 172
Pigeons, stewed, 73
with tomatoes, 291
Pork, 223
Potatoes, analysis of, 242
boiled, 190
new, with cream, 290
chips, fried, 193
croquettes, 194
mashed, 191
souffle, 193
with bacon, 192
milk, 191
onions, 194
spinach, 192
Pot-au-feu, 29
how to prepare, 30
Pudding, apple, 165
baked batter, 166
baked rice, 180
bain-marie, 179
green gage, 292
lemon, 180
lemon custard, 179
marmalade, 179
orange custard, 178
pease, 164
plum, 297
roly-poly, 165
steak, 167
suet, 163
treacle, 165
Yorkshire, 166
Purées, 25
biwite,
133
Salads, 253
boiled vegetable, 255
cauliflower, 258
fish, 256
lettuce, 257
Macédoine, 254
orange, 265
potato, 258
tomato, 257
Salmon, boiled, 114
broiled, 115
fillets of, 294
Salt, spiced, 27
Sauces, Béchamel, 136
without meat
136
Sauces, bread, 139
white, 284
Dutch, 133
fennel, 130
horseradish, 137
Italian, 137
lemon and liver, 141
liver and parsley, 142
Mayonnaise, 130
green, 131
maitre d'hôtel, 135
mint, hot, 135
mint, cold, 135
mushroom, 140, 141
onion, 138
oyster, 140
parsley, 130
piquant, 132, 133
remoulade, 131
tarragon, 130
Tartare, 291
tomato, 139
St. Swithin, monks of, 6
Servants, 60
from institutions, 58
Smelts, fried, 121
Snipe, roast, 283
| Sole, au gratin, 117
boiled, plain, 120
Q
Quails, 212
Rabbits, stewed, 74
Ranges, close, 18
economy of, 18
open, 18
Reformation, great change at, 8
Rice, boiled, 100


302
Index.
Stew, Irish, 70
Stock, foundation of, 21
general, 22
how to prepare, 21
how to keep, 24
object of, 21
origin of, 29
white, 23
Stoves, charcoal, 13
gas, 13
Stuffing, two kinds of, 226
Suet, crust, 163
Sweetbreads, 221
à la jardinière, 282
Sole, baked, 116
filleted, 115
à la reine, 119
à la ménuise, 119
fried, 118
Souffle, potato, 193
rice, 181
Soup, asparagus, 45
bonne femme, 41
cabbage and bacon, 47
Chantilly, 40
colouring for, 23
fish, 53
from remnants of joints, 40
giblet, 50
green pea, 31
purée, 32
haricot bean, 35
how to clarify, 24
Julienne, 38, 39
leek, 43
lentil, 33-35
maigre or vegetable, 20
maigre, 42, 51
marrow, 42
Mulligatawny, 49
onion, 43
ox-tail, 47, 48
pea, 36
potato, 52
poor man's, 46
Spanish, 44 ,
Spanish onion, 45
vegetable, 20, 51
marrow, 42
Vermicelli, 53
with rice, 32
without stock, 32
Spinach, 196
with potatoes, 192
Sprouts, Brussels, 196
Steak, broiled rump, 219
stewed, 76
Stews, 70
Stew, Australian meat, 77
Tarts, open jam, 174
Tomatoes à la Provençale, 293
Tongue, ox, 222
Tripe and onions, 81
Turbot, boiled, 120
Turnips, purée of, 295
Turkey, roast, 213
Veal, fricandeau of, 217
à la bourgeoise, 288
minced, 78
roast chump of, 209
loin of, 209
neck of, 208
stewed breast of, 75
Vegetables, cooking of, 189
W.
Whitebait, 122
fried, 122
Whiting, fried, 121
THE END.
BRADBURY, AGNEW, & CO., PRINTERS, WHITEFRIARS.


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