Cechny and Be Coafortementy by John Conrade Coche Cookery and confectionary John Conrade Cooke Cornery English al Confectionery The New York Public LIBRARY REFERENCE DEPARTMENT * * BEQUEST OF HELEN HAY WHITNEY VTI look INSIDE 書 ​ COOKERY AND CONFECTIONARY. BY JOHN CONRADE COOKE. LONDON: PRINTED BY B. BENSLEY, BOLT COURT, FOR W. SIMPKIN AND R. MARSHALL. 1824 1 1 ! Cookery and Confectionary John Conrade Coche IC.COOKE. Del en STEEL CONRADE.COORE LONDON. Hintained tri• W. Simpkin f.K Marhill. 1824. THE NEW YORK PULLIC LIBRARY 3900410 ASTOR, LENOX AND THEN FULAUATIVNE 141 1 WRI ! 81 PREFACE. UPON most subjects there is only a right and a wrong way, so that it may be logically infer- red, he, who is not in the one, must certainly be in the other: but it is not so with Cookery, the modes of right, in that very popular art, being as various as the tastes of the rational biped, and, how various that is, needs no dis- cussion. Nothing, for instance, can well be more opposed than the cooking of ancient and modern times; the Romans, to say the least of it, were every jot as luxurious as our- selves ; and yet, what modern stomach could digest the luxury of a dish of snails ? and this was a treat to which the philosopher, Pliny, invited his friend, as if it had been a gateau de veau, or a fricandeau of salmon! But, to say the truth, the whole of the Roman cookery secms A 2 iv PREFACE. to have been borrowed from the kitchen of Macbeth's witches, and concocted much after the fashion of their “ gruel thick and slab, equally palatable and odoriferous. We need not, however, go so far back as this, the pre- sent opposition of gastronomic taste being equally decisive between France and England; a Frenchman is in despair at the unmitigated toughness of plain roast and boiled ; and an Englishman is still less likely to reconcile himself to a fricassee of frogs, even with the- luxurious addition of garlic, or though it should be helped out with the Roman sauce of asafetida. Hence it is, that, though many books have been published on the very original art of cookery, there is still "ample room and verge enough” for another work on the sanie sub- ject, independent of the general reason for all new works on an old topic, namely, the very great superiority of the present volume over the various attempts that have preceded it; of these, though many in number, none PREFACE. of er 97 ed U e € have yet appeared exactly suited to domestic purposes; some are so simple as to tell no- thing; some set forth recipes that are as com- plicated as the recipes of the old physicians, in which a whole pharmacopeia was blended to the great advantage of the--prescriber; others again are intelligible only to a pro- fessed cook, precisely the person who has least need of such instruction. This, in- deed, is almost universally the fault with all culinary instructors; and after the no- vice has carefully weighed and measured out his ingredients in the mode and man- ner directed, he at last finds the product at variance with the promise. The great difficulty seems to consist in making pre- cepts, so obvious as to supersede the neces- sity of practice; and it is in this point more. particularly that the present work lays a claim to superiority over all that have gone before it. The reader will not find himself puzzled by any mysterious phrases, nor encumbered by any vague directions, which, while they t 2 vi PREFACE. · make him doubt what he knew before, yet put nothing in its place; all is plain, simple, and determined. To prevent all possibility of failure, even with the least experienced, I have specified, not only the measure or quan- tity of each article, but-as far as it could be done with any certainty-have set down the requisite time for the cooking of each dish, whether plain or compounded. This is alto- gether a novel feature in a work like the pre- sent, and which need only be mentioned for its utility to be obvious. At the same time, to comprehend every thing in as brief à space as possible, I have carefully avoided unnecessary repetitions, and, when several dishes are prepared in the same. way, I have allowed one to stand as a model for all, though all are to be found in the Index, with a reference to that general model. It is, perhaps, needless to say that economy has been particularly studied in the selection of these recipes, and from the absolute prac- tice of more than thirty years. Without PREFACE. vii economy of preparation, a work of this kind can be very little useful ; and, in many cases, the richest dish is not the most palatable, ex. cept to the taste of the perfect epicure. All that a family can require, and, indeed, more, is here set down accurately and intelligibly ;, nor is there a single case in which I cannot. answer for the result, having myself worked every recipe in the volume, not once, but fre- quently, in the course of a long practice. If there be any failure, the reader will only have to blame himself in not following punctually what is set down punctually,-an error that I have often observed in the use of works of a similar nature; the moment any recipe has seemed to militate against the peculiar habits of the novice, he has immediately altered some one of the proportions, or even of the ingredi- ents, to adapt it to his own ideas, and the con- sequence has been, the utter worthlessness of the whole: but this will not do; he who wishes to profit by these recipes must follow their directions with the most scrupulous accu- viii PREFACE. racy, or he will most assuredly lose his labour. To nice palates, cookery requires all the pre- cision used in the compounding of medicine, and a few grains, or a few minutes, whether it be of excess or of deficiency, will sometimes spoil the best arranged plans; it is, therefore, advisable to follow the cookery-book impli- citly, or not at all, for even an ignorant ex- perience is better than a learned quackery. Brighton, Dec. 1824. The various instruments used in the Confectionary and Pastry, may be had of Messrs. Ive and Burbidge, Furnishing Irosa mongers, No. 130, Fleet Street, London. INDEX. A. Acid, Lemon, 760 Pyroligneous, 592 Almond Comfits, 853 for Biscuits and Rout Cakes, 626 Baskets, 367 Burnt, 679 with Cinnamon, 680 Cream Ice, 791 Cups, 360 Paste, 357 Paste for Ornaments, 359 Paste, yellow, for Rout Cakes, 627 Pudding, 424 Wafers, 361 Angelica Green, 717 Apple Paste for Knots, 740 Compote, 747 Slices in Compote, 753 Fritters, 468 Jelly for Fruit, 696 Jelly in Moulds, 385 Sauce in a Boat, 293 Water to Drink, 813 Water Ice, 798 Apricots in Brandy, 700 Preserved in Brandy, 702 to Dry, 706 Apricots, Dried, with Sugar, 707 Preserved, 705 Biscuits, 743 Compote, 749 Cream Ice Fresh, 764 Green, 729 Jam, 704 Cream with Jam, 765 Płumbs, 720 Water Ice, 766 Water to Drink, 814 Arrack Ice, (see Punch,) 800 Artichokes Stewed, 489 Fried, 490 Forced, 507 Ragout, 486 B. Bacon to Cure, 576 Ballachony, 582 Balsam of Honey, 689 Barberries to Pickle, 595 Biscuits, 743 in Bunches, 745 to Colour, 852 Comfits, 847 Compotes, 736 Drops Fresh, 742 A 5 х INDEX. baty slep's Szukai Barberry Jam, 704 Pallets, 821 Barley Sugar, 677 Drops, ib. Lavender, 678 Ginger, 677 Bath Caraways, 836 Batter for Fritters, 467 for Frying, 266 Fritters, 467 Beet Root to Pickle, 601 Beef Tea, 5 Hung, to Cure, 577 Head or Cheek, 120 Collops, 121 Palates, 122 Another Way, 123 Palates in Collops, 121 Ditto in Cutlets, 124 Ditto for Patties, 125 Tail, 126 Tails Crumbed, 127 Alamode, 128 Kidneys, 129 Kidneys, with Onions, 130 Steaks Stewed, 131 Forcemeat, 137 Uuder, 132 Scarlet, or Hunting, 136 Tripe Collops, 133 Tripe Marinated, 134 Tripe Fried, 135 Rump Alamode, 138 German Alamode, 144 Brisket Stewed, 139 Slices Larded, 140 Tongue Fresh, 141 Tongue Baked, 143 Tongue Boiled, 143 Tongue to Cure, 575 German Onion, 145 Sour, 146 Fillet Larded, 147 Minced, 148 Hashed, 149 Olives, 150 Collops Scotch, 151 Surloin, with Mince, 152 Fillet à la Daub, 153 Collared, 154 Marrow Bones, 159 bredia Briche, Beef, Potted, 155 Boullie, 156 and Suur Kraut, 157 Sausages, 158 Olive le Roi, 161 Fricatel, 162 Shiu Soup, 160 Feet with Mock Turtle, 163 Steak Pie, 164 Steaks, (see Broiling,) 261 Steaks to keep, 581 Bergamot Drops, 818 Shells, 940 Biscuits, Almond Paste for small, 633 Almond Roche, 634 Almond Hearts, 618 Brown Bread, 619 Cream, 614 Cream, another way, 615 Cinnamon Sugar, 632 Cherry, 636 Cream, 781 Finger, 616 French Maccaroon, 623 Italian, 613 Iceing, 620 Judges, 611 Lemon Sugar, 632 Maccaroon, 622 Maccarvon, French, 623 Moss, 629 Nut, 625 Naples, 618 Oliver, 638 Orange Flower, 632 Orange Sugar, 632 Palais Royal, 608 Plain, 637 Raspberry, 635 Ratifias, 624 Red Rock, 631 Rock, 630 Rose Sugar, 632 Rusks, 612 Savoy, 610 Spanye, 609 Wainut, 628 Blackberry Compote, 757 Jam, 704 Black Puddings, 241 the bar Cauam 1 1 WAY INDEX. xi Blanc Mange, 386 Boiling Fish, 512 Meats and Poultry, 40 Puddings, 423 Sugar, 674 Vegetables, 477, 448 Brawn Mock, 243 Picklę, *243 Branching Brocoli, 506 Brandy Fruits, 700 Boudin à la Richelieu, 270 Braizing Meat and Poultry, 119 Brawn Pickle, *243 Brioche Cake, 368 Broiling, 260 Broth Common, 1 Chicken, 3 Mutton, 2 German with Barley, 10 Sheep's Head, Scotch, 222 Scotch with Barley, 4 Brown Bread Cream, 783 Buns, Plum, 666 Breakfast, 665 Brioche, or Bath, 667 Butter Burnt, 81 Melted, English way, 97 Melted, French way, 96 Burnt Almonds, 679 Cinnamon, 680 Cream Ice, 782 Burgamot Drops, 818 Shells, 840 Cakes, Light Sponge, 607 Madelaine, 365 Oven, 375 Plain, 612 Pound, 643 Pepper, 655 Queen, 644 Queen Drop, 644 Kich Plum, 639 Another, Plain, 640 Another Plain, 641 Real Shrewsbury, 660 Shrewsbury, 658 Savoy, 606 Sugar, 657 Water, 661 Yorkshire, 663 Yeast, 645 Calves Head Hash, 167 Head Plain, 166 Cheek Boned, 168 Brains, 169 Another way, 170 Liver to Fry, 171 Feet Maître d'Hotel, 172 Feet Broiled, 173 Feet Jelly, 378 Camp Vinegar, 113 Candy for Figures, &c. 692 Capilaire, 687 Capsicums Pickled, 605 Cardenom Comfits, 846 Drops, 818 Caromile Sugar, 676 Carp in Wine, 535 to Stew, 528 to Fry, 534 Carrot Trashees, 860 Casting Flat Moulds, 864 Casserole of Rice, 311 Cassia Buds Comfits, 845 Cauliflower and Cheese, 492 Caviare, 591 Cedrate Ice, 801 Cellery Comfits, 839 to Pickle, 602 to Fry, 491 to Stew Brown, 484 to Stew White, 483 Cement for Pasting, 869 Chantilly Basket, 367 C. Cabbage Forced, 493 Red to Pickle, 599 Red to Stew, 494 White to Pickle, 599 Cakes Brioche, 368 Balloon, 664 Chantilly, 366 Diet Bread, 617 rby, 662 Genoese, 376 Ginger, 659 Iceing for, 621 Xii INDEX. 2 Chartreuse Roots, 314, Chardoons White, 491 Salsify, 491 Char Potted, 553 Cherries Compote, 746 in Brandy, 701 Brandy, 703 Dried, 711 for Pots, 712 Water Ice, 812 Water to Drink, 812 Jam, 704 Cheesecakes, 350 Currant, 350 Savoury with Cheese, 407 Pudding, 439 Chickens to Boil, 254 to Braize, 255 Larded, 256 Roast, 257 Fricassee, 259 Fricassee White, 260 Broil, 261 Currie, 262 Another way, 264 Fried in Baiter, 266 Pie, 268 Another way, 269 in Rice, 36 with Cauliflower, 273 Chocolate Cream, 792 Drops, 819 Harlequins, 820 Cinnamon Comfits, 834 Drops, 818 Clarified Sugar, 675 Lemonade, 807 Clear Cakes, 739 Clove Drops, 818 Comfits, 842 to Make, 859 Cochineal to Prepare, 673 · Codlings Compote, 748 Cod's Head and Shoulders, 512 Slices, ib. Fried, (see Salmon,) 118 Cockles to Boil, 549 Cockles to Stew, 547 to Escalop, 546 Coffee Comfits, 854 Creams, 775 Colcannone, 500 Colrabe in Sauce, 502 to Fry, ib. Comfit Making, 832 Colours for Gum Paste, 823 Colouring Raspberries, 852 Comfits, ib. Nonpareils, ib. Sands, 871 for Gravy, 9 Soups and Sauces, ib. Compotes, 749 Crabs hot in Sauce, 544 Cray Fish to Boil, 563 Cream Burnt, 391 Apricot, 392 Coffee, 389 Curds, &c. *395 Plain, 793 Damson, 392 Franchipann, 333 Ginger, 393 Mille Fruit, 395 Marbled, 396 Italian, 388 Peach, 392 Pine Apple, 393 Rhenish, 387 Raspberry, 392 Strawberry, &c. ib. Stone, 400 Trifle, 397 Trifle in Dish, 398 Vanilla, 390 Toasts Fried, 374 Pudding, 427 Pancakes, 415 in Glasses, 403 Paucakes with Apples, 415. Cringles, 669 Crumpets, 671 Cucumber to Preserve, 727 German to Pickle, 603 Slices, 604 Stewed, 482 Curds, Vinegar, 114 and Cream, *395 Custard Cream, 777 in Moulds, 402 in Glasses, 401 Boiled, 403 INDEX. xüi Currant Jelly, in Moulds, 384 Jelly, Red, 697 Jelly, Black, 698 Drops, Black, 699 Jam, 704 Whole, 728 in Bunches, 745 Compote, 749 Red Water Ice, 795 White ditto, ib. Black, ditto, ib. Water to Drink, 812 Cut Shapes, 861 Comfits, 843 Eels to Collar, 530 Eggs to Fricassee, 473 Balls, 185 Buttered, 470 Poached, 471 Vermicelli, 474 to Preserve, 583 Plover's, 476 Salad, 475 in Cases, 472 Endive Stewed, 498 Eringo Root Candy, 734 Jelly, 381 F. D. Damson Jam, 704 to Preserve, 718 to Bloom, 719 Compote, 749 Dessert Plates, to make, 868 Diet Bread Cake, 617 Directions to Plates, 816 Doubing, or Larding, described, 138 Dripping, Clarified, 469 Dry Sweetmeats, 707 Drying Stove described, 672 Drop Making, 817 Duck Hashed, 290 Roasted, 288 to Stew, 287 Salmi, 291 Wild, to Roast, 292 to Roast Wild, 398 Duchess Rolls, or Petit Chose Pastry, 334 Dumplings, Yeast, 466 Suet, 428 Dutch Rusks, 668 Another way, Fennel Sauce, for Mackerel, 59 Sauce, 58 Fish Patties, 559 Flemish Gauffres, 377 Flounders, (see Frying,) 118 Fondeau, 406 Forcemeat Balls, 183 Fowls to Boil, 254 Boudin à la Richelieu, 270 Braize, 255 to Broil, 261 to Currie, 262 264 Cutlets, 271 and Cauliflower, 273 Espagnol, or Spanish, 274 Fricassée, Brown, 259 Fricassée, White, 260 Fillets, Larded, 258 Larded, 256 Large in Jelly, 301 Minced, 267 in Rice, 272 Potted, 155 to Roast, 257 Franchipann Cream, *364 Freezing Ice, 759 French Beans, 486 to Pickle, 596 Plum Compote, 751 Fritters, Apple, 468 Pine Apple, ib. Strawberry, ib. Plain, ib. E. Eels to Pitchcock, 527 to Stew or Matelot, 528 Plain, 529 to Boil, 531 to Fry, 118 Potted, 553 xiy INDEX. Frontignac Water Ice, 796 Frothing Poultry and Meat, 249 Fruit to Bottle, 586 Fruit Pastes, 699 Fried Artichokes, 490 Frying, 118 Grape Syrup, 684 Gravy White, 7 Brown, 6 in haste, 8 Green Gauges in Brandy, 702 Preserved, 713 Compotes, 749 Gum Arabic Paste, 825 Paste for Ornaments, 824 Paste Sugar, 822 G. H. Garlic to Preserve, 744 Gerkins to Pickle, 596 German Puffs, 421 Rolls, 670 Sausages, 245 Sauer Kraut, 479 Ginger Comfits, 844 Ærated Drink, 809 Cream, 393 Drops, 818 Lozenges, 828 Pop, 811 Pipes, 829 Preserved, 726 Seed, 849 Gingerbread, Queen's, 647 Fine, 643 Another way, 649 Light, Common, 650 Nuts, 653 Nuts, Fine, 651 Another way, 652 Roll, 654 Glazing, French way, 345 English way, 346 for Meat, and to make, n. 8 Goose to Roast, 293 Pie, 294 Giblet Soup, 27 Giblet Pie, 295 Hash, 290 Green, to Roast, 293 Gooseberry Cheese, 716 Compotes, 756 Fool, 420 Green, Preserved, 714 Hops, 715 Jam, 704 Jelly, 6 Putts, 341 Sinashers, 419 Haddocks Fried, 521 Fillet, 519 Rizord, 520 Baked, 532 Ham, to Cure, 574 to Braize, 246 to Toast, 247 Hamburgh Pickle, 579 Hare Cake, (see Veal,) 201 Civette, 278 Hashed, 307 Jugged, 309 Pie, 308 Salmi, 290 Soup, 25 Roast, 306 Hats, small Trachdes, 838 Herrings, 537 Collared, 536 Baked, 538 Dried, 564 Herbs, to Dry, 584 Honey, Balsam of, 689 Hot Ice Cream, 794 Hung Beef, 577 Another way, 578 I. Iceing for Cakes, 621 Imperial Brisk, 810 India Corn, to pickle, 594 Pickle, 598 Irish Plum, 719 Italian Cream, 388 Salad, 508 INDEX XV J. Jelly, Apple, 696 Aspic Savoury, 477 Black Currant, 697 Red ditto, 698 Calves' Foot, 378 Eringo Root, 381 Punch, 394 Sago, 382 Sponge, 379 Jerusalem Artichokes, 489 Juice of Spinach for colouring, 22 Junket, 399 K. Laver, 118 Lavender Drops, 818 Lozenges, 828 Leason for Soups, 29 Lettuces, Stewed, 498 Lemon Chips, 731 Acid, 760 Cream with Cream, 772 Cream Ice, see Orange, 771 Clarified Lemonade, 807 Comfits, 835 Drops, 818 Jelly, 388 Ice, 774 Lemonade, 806 Lozenges, 828 Palates, (see Orange,) 821 Prawlings, 681 Paste, 737 Peels, 732 Marmalade, 738 Quarters, 730 Whole, 730 Syrup, 683 Lobster Currie, 264 Salad, 510 Patties, 557 Hot, in Sauce, 544 Potted, ib. Lozenges, Ginger, 829 Lemon, ib. Peppermint, 828 Rose Acid, 829 Tolu, 831 Ketchup, Mushroom, 116 Tomata, 115 L. M. Lamb's Brains, 169 Breast, 224 Cutlets and Cabbage, 214 Cutlets and Cauliflower, ib. Cutlets and Herbs, 213 Cutlets, glazed, 199 Cutlets in paper, 195 Cutlets, plain, 210 Ears, 226 Feet, ib. Fry, 230 Gijot, Espagnol, 228 Harrico, 211 Hashed, 149 Loin, Larded, 216 Loin, marinated, 189 Head and Emince, 225 Neck, Larded, 216 Leg to Boil, 227 Pie, 221 Shoulder, Larded, 229 Sweetbreads, 175 Lampreys, 531 Potted, 553 Larks to Ruast, 325 Pie, 326 Potted, 555 Maccaroons, 622 French, 623 Maccaroni, 404 Sweet, 408 Timbal of, 310 Macedoine Fruits, 750 Roots, 505 Mackerel, Collared, 536 to Boil, (see Builing,) 512 Bruiled in Paper, 541 Maitre d'Hotel, 539 Fillet, 510 Baked, 538 xvi INDEX. Mutton Pie with Çabbage, 215 Fillets Larded, 216 Neck Larded, ib. Squab Pie, 217 Tongues, 218 Collops, 219 Hash, (see Beef,) 149 China Chillo, 220 Pies Raised, 221 Tongues Larded, 223 Breast Broiled, 224 Chops, 261 N. 2009 Mangoes to Pickle, 507 Cucumbers, ib. Melon, ib. Marasquin Ice, 789 Cream, (see Noyeau), 788 Marrow Bones, 159 Marshmallows Paste, 741 Meat Tart, 313 Melon, Ripe, 710 Compote, 752 Green, 728 Ice, 797 Merringles, 646 Mille Fruit Water Ice, 803 Milk Punch, 808 Mince Meat, 422 Mock Turtle, 27 Brawi, 243 Mogul Plums, Green, 713 Yellow, 718 Moor Game to Roast, 322 Boiled, 315 Potted, 321 Salmi, (see Duck), 291 Broiled, 261 Hashed, 149 Fricassee Fillet, 259 Cake, 201 Morells, 497 Mulberry Water Drink, (see Rasp- berry,) 812 Cream Ice, 764 Water Ice, 802 Syrup, 685 Jam, 765 Compote, 757 Mullet, Red, 543 Muscles Stewed, 549 Escaloped, 545 Mushrooms, Stewed, 488 Ketchup, 116 Musk Shells, 840 Mustard, 590 Mutton Cutlets, plain, 210 Harrico, 211 Cutlets in Paper, 195 Cutlets Larded, 212 Cutlets with Herbs, 213 Cutlets with Cabbage, 214 Cutlets with Cauliflower, ib. Cutlets, (see Cabbage), ib. Naples Biscuits, 618 Nasturtian Buds to Pickle, 596 Nectarines Compote, 749 Negus Ice, 804 with little Sugar, 707 Preserved in Brandy, 702 Nogar, 694 Nonpareils, 848 to Colour, 852 Noyeau Cream Ice, 788 Water Ice, 789 0. Oat Trashèes, 860 Omlettes, Sweet, 410 French Souflé, 409 French Plain, 411 with Ham, 412 German, 413 Onions, Ragout of, 486 to Keep, 585 Pickled, 600 Sauce, 54 Orange Flower Biscuits, 632 Flower Cream Ice, 779 Carved, 730 Chips, 731 Cream Ice, 771 Clarified, 808 Comfits, 835 Cream without Cream, 772 Flower Jelly, 682 Green, 730 2 INDEX. xvii Orange Jelly, 383 Marmalade, 738 Pallets, 821 Paste, 737 Peel to Candy, 733 Peels, 732 Prawlings, 681 Flower ditto, 682 Quarters, 730 Whole, ih. Syrup, 683 Water Ice, 773 Orangeade, 805 Orgeat, 686 Drink, 815 Orlean Plum Compote, 749 Oven Cakes, 375 Oysters, Pickled, 562 Escaloped, 545 Another way, 546 to Stew, 547 for Patties, 556 to Fry, 548 Pastry Tart, 330 Biscuit, 331 Candy, 691 Almond, 357 Raised Pie, 332 Petit Chose, 334 French, 335 Croquant, 336 Ornamenting Hams, 337 for lining Moulds, 341 Gum Sugar, 822 Gum for Ornaments, 824 Gum Arabic, 825 Gum for Gilding, 826 for Foundations, ib. Dripping, 469 French, 351 Sandwich, 352 Small, 353 Fan, 354 Leaf, 355 for Dishes, 356 Passing-off Herbs, &c. 47 Patties, 338 Sweetmeat, 343 with Forcemeat, 339 Patè de Grimauve, 741 Peaches in Brandy, 700 with a little Sugar, 707 Jam, 704 Preserved in Brandy, 702 Compote, 749 Cream Ice, 764 Cream with Jam, 762 Water Ice, (see Apricot,) 766 Pears preserved in Brandy, 721 Compote, 755 Preserved, (see Peaches,) 702 Stewed, 756 Pearling Comfits, 833 Caraways, 837 Coriander, 838 Peas to Dry, 588 to Bottle, 587 to Stew, 481 Peppermint Seed, 830 Drops, 818 Pipes, 829 Lozenges, 828 Pepper Cake, 6552 Perch Stewed, 529 P. Painting on Wax, 867 Palates, 122 Pancakes, 415 Rice, 414 Fine, 418 with Apples, 415 Scotch, 416 Cream, 423 Partridges to Roast, 249 Boiled, 315 Salmi, 291 Pie, 317 Broiled, 261 Blanquet, 303 and Cabbage, 318 Larded, 319 Pie, called Perigord, 320 Potted, 321 Fricassee, 259 Parsley, Fried, 511 Paste, Candy, 691 Pastry, 328 Puff Paste, 329 Patty, 312 xviii INDEX. 1 1 4 De Perch Fried, 118 Pheasants to Ruast, 316 to Buil, 315 Salmi, (see Duck,) 921 Broiled, (see Fowl,) 261 Pie, 317 Blanquet, (see Turkey,) 303 with Truffles, 305 Pickling, 592 Pigeon Compote, 281 Broiled, 261 to Roast, 282 Larded, ib. Braized, 283 and Cabbage, 285 Pie, 284 Cutlets, 286 Pie Shell to Raise, 333 d'Amour, 342 Pig, Collared, 203 Feet, 234 Fry, (see Lamb's,) 230 Ears, 235 Pettitoes, 237 Head Cold, 242 Liver Pudding, 244 Stuffing, 289 to Roast, 253 to Collar, 203 Pike to Bake, 533 to Boil, 533 Fried, 534 Pine Water, 769 Apple Cream, fresh, 767 Ditto, with Jam, 768 Apple Compote, 754 Apple Chips, 723 Apple Cream, 393 Apple Jam, 724 Apple Water Ice, fresh, 770 Apple Water Ice, 769 Apple Whole, 725 Apple Slices, 723 Pistatio Cream Ice, 778 Plaise, Friel, 521 Plaster Moulds io Cast, 863 Plum Cream Ice, 764 Water Ice, 766 Jam, 714 Juice, (see Apricot,) 766 Biscuit, 743 Plum Cream, 764 Pork Cutlets, plain, 231 with Red Cabbage, ib. Broiled, 232 Fillet Braized, 233 Pie, 236 Sausage-meat, 239 Pomegranate Paste, 736 Poulette Sauce Potatoe Balls, 589 Boiled, 478 Fried, 503 Ragout, 499 Maitre d'Hotel, 504 Yeast, 870 Prawns, Hot, 544 Preserved Wet Fruits, 695 Puddings, to Boil, 423* Suet, 428 without Suet, 429 Almond, 424 Almond, Boiled, 456 Apple, 441 Apricot, 462 Apple, Baked, ib. Batter, 431 Batter, Baked, ib. Barley, 437 Black Currant, 443 Boiled Almond, 456 Bread and Butter, 459 Bread, boiled, 460 Cheese Cake, 439 Cow-heel, 454 Cabbage, 446 Cabinet Pudding, 445 Custard in Paste, 444 College, Fried, 446 Cherry, 443 Currant and Raspberry, ib. Cream, 427 Custard, 432 Custard, boiled, 458 Common, 426 Damson, 443 French Plums, 445 Gooseberry, 443 Ground-rice, 436 Ginger, 440 Green Gage, 443 Fish, 551 INDEX. xix R. 450 Pudding, Fish, Another way, 552 Hasty, 461 Italian, 457 Lemon, 452 Marrow, 449 Marrow, another way, Muffin, 445 Maccaroni, 437 Morella Cherries, 442 Orange, 452 Peas, 465 Peach, 443 Potatoe, boiled, 451 Potatoe, baked, ib. Plum, rich, 425 Plum, common, 426 Quaking, 464 Ratifia, 463 Rice, without Egg, 438 Rice, 434 Rice Slop, 435 Shrewsbury, 447 Sussex, 448 Sago, 455 Tansey, 453 Tapioca, 433 Vermicelli, 437 Yorkshire, 430 Puffs, to Make, 340 German, 421 Spanish, 417 Punch, Jelly, 324 Ice, 800 Pyroligueous Acid, 592 Rabbits, Boiled, 275 Civette, 278 Currie, 264 Fricassee, 260 Fillets, Larded, 276 Pie, 277 Roasted, 280 Raised Pie, 333 Ramaquins, 405 Raspberry Jelly, 389 Water Ice, 763 Water Drink, 812 Comfits, 851 Comfits to Colour, 852 Vinegar, 688 Jelly, 697 Jam, 704 Whole, 703 Jam for Cakes, 709 Compote, 749 Cream Ice with Jam, 762 Cream Ice, Fresh, 761 Ratifia Cream Ice, 780 Rhenish Cream, 387 Richelieu Pudding, 270 Rice boiled for Curries, 263 Begnets, 362 and Apples, 363 Casserole of, 311 Fritters, 364 Pancakes, 414 Roasting, 249 Rock Candy, 690 Sugar, 693 Rolling Pin Trashes, 60 Rolls, German, 670 Rose Drops, 818 Lozenges, Acid, 829 Lozenges, 828 Rum Punch, 800 S. Quails to Roast, (see Roasting,) 249 Quashies, or Vegetable-marrow, 496 Queen Cakes, 644 Drops, 644 Quince Compote, 757 Preserved Red, 722 Preserved White, ib. Marmalade, 735 Sago, Jelly, 382 Salado, 110 Salado, 11] Salad Alixture, 112 XX INDEX. Another way, Salmon, to Boil, 514 Sauce, Mustard, 76 to Fry, 118 Mixture to help, 109 Fricandeau, 515 Maitre d'Hotel, 104 to Pickle, 516 Mint, 106 Collops, 517 Melted Butter, French way, Slices in Paper, 518 97 Smoked, 565 Melted Butter, English way, Smoked, to Dress, 566 98 Salsify, 486 Onion, 53 Sauce, Anchovy, 90 54 à la Reine, 48 Oysters, 93 Asparagus, 62 Parsley, 57 Aspie for Salads, 86 Potatoe, 65 Bechamel or White, 45 Poivrade, 75 Bread, 99 Piquante, 77 Brown Callis, 43 Piquante or Sharp, cold, 117 Burnt Butter, 81 Poulette, 95 Cucumber, 51 Royale, 47 Celery, White, 56 Robert, 55 Celery, Brown, 57 Ravigote, 83 Cauliflower, 64 Remoulade, 84 Carp, 69 Relishing, for Cold Meat, Caper, 73 85 Chervil, 107 Ragout Onion, 94 Cockle, 91 Ragout, 104 Crab, 92 Salado, Indian, 111 Dutch, 74 Sweet or Wine, 95 Endive, 50 Spanish, 103 Fennel, 58 Sorrel, 49 Fried Crunıb, 100 Seville, 82 Flamande, 78 Shrimp, 89 French Bean, 101 Sour or Piquant, 117, Green Pea, 63 Tomata, 108 Green, 79 Thickening for, 42 Garlick, 70 Turnip, 66 Gooseberry, 106 Tarragon, 68 Harrico Root, 46 Truffle, 61 Harricot, White, 102 Tournée, 44 Harricot, Brown, 80 White, 45 Hachée, 80 Wine or Sweet, 96 Horseradish, 71 Greening for, 22 Another way, 72 Sauer Kraut, to make, 479 Herb, 52 to Stew, 480 Italian, 67 Sausages and Cabbage, 239 Lemou, 59 Meat, 238 Lobster, 87 and Apples, 240 Another way, 88 German, 245 Mint, Parsley, and Fennel, Saute Pan described, 121 58 Scate, 542 Mushroom, 60 Schodees, 369 INDEX xxi Scorzonera, 486 Scotch Caraways, 836 Sea Kale, 501 Sheep's Tongues, 218 Shells, Small, 856 Long, 857 Shrimps Potted, 554 Patties, 558 Smelts, 521 in Jelly, 524 Soles, Fried, 521 Fillets, Plain, 522 Maitre d'Hotel, 523 Fillets, in Aspic Jelly, 524 Pie, 525 Baked, 526, Soups, Asparagus, clear, 16 Beef Shin, 160 to Clear, 13 Another way, 14 Celery, clear, 19 Carrot, 23 Cressy, 30 Cray Fish, 33 Cabbage, 34 Friar's Chicken, 31 Green Pea, 20 Green Pea Purée, 21 Giblet, 26 Hare, 25 Mulligatani, 32 Mock Turtle, 27 Meagre, 37 Ox Rumps, 41 Onion, 38 Pea, Yellow, 24 Peas, clear, 17 Rice, clear, 15 Sante, 11 Spring Vegetable, 18 Shin of Beef, 160 Turnip, 40 Tomato, 39 Turtle, 567 Veal and Rice, 36 Vermicelli, 12 White à la Reine, 28 White, with Liason, 29 White Celery, 35 Yellow Pea, 24 Greening for, 22 Soufle Creams, 370 Potatoes, 373 Rice, 371 Whole Rice, 372 Sprats, (see Broiling,) 261 Spanish Tuffs, 417 Spinach, Stewed, 485 Juice, 22 Spunge Jelly, 379 Sticking Wax, 865 Strawberry Jelly, Red, 380 Cream in Moulds, 392 Jam, 704 Whole, 708 Compote, 749 Cream, Fresh Ice, 761 Cream, with Jam, 762 Water Ice, 763 Water to Drink, 812 Sturgeon, 550 Fricandeau, 515 in Pickle, 516 Stuffing for Veal, &c. 279 for Goose, &c. 289 Sugar to Boil, 674 Clarified, 675 Caromile, 676 Syrups of Fruit, various, 683 Sweetmeat Puffs, 349 T. 1 Tamarind Water Ice, 787 Cream, 786 Tart, 358 Meat, 313 Sweetmeat, 344 Tartlets, Stringed, 347 Tartlet Pastry, 348 Tea Wafers, 656 Cream Ice, 776 Teal, (see Roasting,) 249 Tench to Stew, 528 Fried, 534 Boiled in Wine, 535 Thickening for Sauce, 43 Thousand Leaf Cake, 335 Timball of Maccaroni, 310 Tolou Lozenges, 830 Tomata Ketchup, 115 xxii INDEX, . Tomata, Sauce, 108 Forced, 495 Soup, 39 Tongues to Cure, 575 Trashees, 855 Trifle Cream Ice, 784 Tripe Collops, 133 Marinated, 134 Fried, 135 Trout, Fried, 534 Boiled, 512 Stewed, 528 Truffles, Stewed, 487 Salad, 509 Turhot, to Boil, 513 Turkey, to Roast, 296 Larded and Roast, 297 Braized, 298 Espagnol, 299 Stuffed and Larded, 300 in Jelly, 301 Polts, (see Roasting,) 249 Boiled, 302 Blanquet, 303 Turkey, Minced 304 Stuffing, 279 with Truffles, Stewed, 305 Turtle, Fricandeau, 569 Fins in Sauce, 568 to Dress, 567 Patties, 570 Vole Vente, 571 to Preserve, 573 Mock, 27 Pie, 572 Prepared to Keep, 573 Morrison's Turtle, 573 Veal Fried, 182 Forcemeat, 183 Rissoles à la Choisey, 184 Tendons, 186 Breast Ragout, 187 Breast Larded, 188 Breast Marinated, 189 Neck Marinated, ib. Neck Larded, 188 Neck Ragout, 187 Grenadines, 190 Fricandeau, 191 Ragout, 192 Breast Stewed, 187 Veal Collops, Scotch, 193 Cutlets, plain, 194 in Paper, 195 Olives, 150 Fillet, daubed, 196 Sham Cutlets, 197 Knuckle and Rice, 36 and Peas, Stewed, 198 Cutlets Glazed, 199 Blanquet, 200 Cake, 201 Collared, 202 Minced, 204 Fricassee, 205 Loin Beshamel, 206 Fillet Beshamel, ib. Loin Marinated, 189 Hashed, 149 Pie, 208 Harrico, 209 Potted, 155 Breast Mariaated, 189 Vegetables, Boiling, 477 Venison, to Broil, (see Broiling,) 261 Harrico, 211 Neck Marinated, 250 Haunch to Roast, 248 Neck to Roast, ib. Chops, 251 Pastry, 252 to Preserve, 580 Vinegar, Camp, 113 Cucumber, 114 Raspberry, 688 Violet Drops, 818 Comfits, 841 V. Vanilla Cream, 790 V-al Sweetbreads with Peas, 174 Larded, 175 Cutlets, 176 Collops, 177 Patties, 178 Rissoles, 179 Pie, 180 Roasted, 181 INDEX. xxiji Vole au Vent, 329 with Ragout, 312 of Fish, 560 Wax Stickiog, 265 Painting on, 867 Gilding, 866 Wheatears Potted, 555 to Roast, 327 White Pear Plums, 718 Whiting, Fricd, 521 Wild Duck Salmi, 291 to Roast, 292 Wine Sauce, 95 Wine Sours, 718 Woodcocks to Roast, 323 Pie, 324 Wafers, Tea, 656 Walnuts to Pickle, 593 Ketchup, 591 Water Ice, 812 Wasser Sauche, 561 Wax Ornaments to Cast, 862 C 1 A NEW SYSTEM OF COOKERY AND CONFECTIONARY. BROTHS AND SOUPS. It is necessary to remark that all soups, gravy, broths, &c. must be well skimmed of fat, which done by taking paper and repeatedly putting it flat on the surface, and removing it as often as grease appears ; as nothing alters the taste more, or is so dis- agreeable as the fat that rises on the surface. 1. Common Broth, or Stock. This is made by taking ten pounds of gravy beef, and one shin or leg of beef, cutting it in pieces, and putting to it six quarts of water. When it boils, skim it well; boil it gently eight hours; strain it through a sieve, and let it stand in flat dishes to cool. Two onions, two parsnips, two heads of celery, two carrots, and a bunch of sweet herbs, may be added, if wanted to give flavour ; but it is better without, as this broth is intended to be the foundation of other soups and gravies. Note.-Sweet herbs consist of knotted marjoram, thyme, and parsley; a sprig of each tied together, 2. Mutton Broth. Take a neck of mutton, or part, according to the quantity wanted. If the whole neck, joint it, and put to it four quarts of water. Let it boil, and skim it well j B 2 COOKERY. when it has boiled one hour, add four turnips, a sprig of thyme, and one onion. Then let it boil an hour and a half longer. Skim off the fat, and season with salt, and a small piece of sugar. Serve all together. Note.--A small piece of sugar means, supposing it to be in powder, a tea-spoonful. 3. Chicken Broth. Cut a chicken in joints, put it into cold water, and blanch it; then put a quart of good beef broth, as directed, No. 1 ; a few peppercorns, and a blade of mace : boil it one hour, and take off the fat. To this may be added a little vermicelli, boiled five minutes. Serve altogether. Note.-Blanching is merely letting the article boil up in water two minutes, and washing all the scum off; the object is to check, set, and cleanse it from im- purities. 4. Scotch Broth. Cut a neck of mutton into cutlets ; put to it three quarts of water, and three ounces of Scotch barley, and let it boil two hours. Then add two turnips, one carrot, one parsnip cut in dice, two large onions, a handful of parsley leaves ; let it boil with these three quarters of an hour longer, and season with salt and a small piece of sugar. 5. Beef Tea, Cut one pound of lean beef in small dice; pour some boiling water on it, let it stand two minutes; then strain it off, and put a pint of hot water over the beef, and let it simmer half an hour, but not boil. Strain it off. *6. Brown Gravy. Cut eight pounds of the lean part of a knuckle of veal into small pieces, with two pounds of lean ham, and an old fowl may be added. Put it into a stew-pan, with BROTHS. 3 one ounce of butter, three onions, two carrots, eight mushrooms, one head of celery, one parsnip, a blade of mace and a quarter of a pint of water or broth; let it stew with the cover of the stew-pan on, till it catches at the bottom, and is quite brown but not burnt; then add four quarts of beef broth, No. 1, and let it boil gently three hours, and strain it. This is the foundation for gravy soups and sauces that are brown. 7. White Gravy, for Soups and Sauces. The same quantity of veal and ham, or lean bacon, as the last, No. 6, put on with the same ingredients, and broth, No. 1, boiled three hours, and strained, This gravy must not have the meat browned. 8. Gravy in haste. One ounce of Glazing, four spoonfuls of ketchup, half a pint of water, an onion boiled in it five minutes, with a little colouring, as No. 9, seasoned with salt and strained. The squeeze of half a lemon will add to the flavour. Note.—Glazing is portable soup, made by boiling good gravy and stock down to the consistence of thick treacle, and keeping it always ready. 9. Colouring for Gravy, Soups, and Sauces. Put a quarter of a pound of moist sugar into an iron frying-pan ; stir it over the fire well while it is melting ; when it becomes quite brown, without burning, add half a pint of boiling water, and let it mix well. Strain it through a sieve, and keep it in a bottle, well corked. 10. German Barley Broth. Put on six pounds of thin flank of beef, with three quarts of water, and three ounces of pearl barley. When it boils skim it well ; let it boil two hours, then put in two heads of celery, three turnips, one carrot, one parsnip, in small dice, and let it boil three quarters of B2 4 COOKERY. an hour longer. Thicken it with a spoonful of flour mixed with some of the broth, and boiled a quarter of an hour after the flour is in. Season it with a little salt, and a small piece of sugar. . See Note, No. 2. SOUPS. 11. Soup Santé. To four pounds of lean veal, and one pound of ham, or lean bacon, cut in slices, (letting it catch till quite brown, the same as the veal for gravy, No. 6,) then add four quarts of beef broth, (an old fowl may also be added to this if at hand ;) one carrot, one turnip, one head of celery, and two onions; boil the whole two hours, then strain it, take off the fat; cut half a carrot, one head of celery, one turnip, and one small onion in very thin slips, or in small dice, with a few blades of parsley, and let it boil a quarter of an hour in the soup. Season it with salt and a small lump of sugar. (See Note, No. 2.) The soup must boil very gently or it will not be clear. Note.When a soup is specified, the quantity meant is a tureen, which generally holds three quarts. 12. Clear Vermicelli Soup. Proceed the same as in the last article; only instead of the vegetables being added, put a handful of vermi- celli, and boil it five minutes. 13. To clear Soup or Gravy If it should be thick, through boiling it too quick, which is often the case; to four quarts of gravy put six whites of egg, well whisked up with the soup, and boil it up for six minutes; let it stand, and strain it through a bag or napkin, and it will be perfectly clear. 14. Another way to clear Broth. Put three whole whisked eggs to the broth, when first 6 COOKERY, of mint. Rub them through a fine hair-sieve or tammy; add half a pint of whole boiled pease, season with a small piece of sugar and salt; if not green enough, add a tea-cupful of spinach-juice (No. 22.) just at putting in the tureen, 21. Green Pease Soup (Purée). Take three pints of pease, two turnips, two onions, a bunch of mint, one head of celery cut in pieces, and put them in a stew-pan with two ounces of butter, and one quart of soup gravy ; let them stew till all are tender enough to rub them through a tammy; add two quarts more gravy, as No. 6, and season it with salt, and a piece of sugar, ás No. 2. As this will not be green enough, add a tea-cupful of spinach-juice just at last. Purée, the substance itself rubbed through a tammy or sieve. The tammy sieve is preferable to rubbing it through the tammy held by two persons, as much is wasted and lost by that means. 22. Spinach-juice for greening Soups, Sauces, &c. Pound some spinach in a mortar, squeeze it through a tammy or șieve ; put the juice in a stew-pan over the fire tillit curdles, pour off the water through a fine lawn sieve, and rub the green residue through it, with a little broth. 23. Carrot Soup (Purée de Carrotte). Two ounces of butter, six good-sized carrots, sliced off the inside, four turnips in slices, three large onions, and two heads of celery, boiled in three quarts of good broth (No. 1.) till tender, then rubbed through a tammy or sieve, seasoned with salt and a small piece of sugar, as Note, No. 2. 24. Yellow Pease Soup. One quart split pease, two onions, one carrot, one head of celery, two ounces of butter, one parsnip, six sprigs of mint, and one turnip, put on with four quarts of good SOUPS. 7 broth (No. 1.) till the pease are quite tender; rub it through a tammy or sieve, and season with salt and a small piece of sugar, as Note, No. 2. When sent to table, small dice of ham and bread fried are served with it, and some pounded mint in the tureen. 25. Hare Soup. Cut the hare in joints; put three quarts of gravy soup (No. 6.) to it, two onions, one carrot, a small bunch of sweet herbs, eight cloves, and two blades of mace. Let it stew till tender, then strain it off, pick the meat off the bones, and well pound it; add the broth, and rub it through a tammy sieve. Save a piece of the back of the hare, and cut it in small slices, the size of a shilling, and put in the tureen when the soup is served. Add two glasses of port wine as it boils up, and season with a little Cayenne pepper and salt. Forcemeat balls may be added if desired. Any kind of game may be made into a soup by the same method. 26. Giblet Soup. Scald two sets of giblets, put them into three quarts of good gravy, as No. 6, with two onions, twelve cloves, and half the rind of a lemon; let them stew till tender, then strain the soup. Put three ounces of butter and two spoonfuls of flour in a stew-pan, and let it be well stirred together till it turns brown; add the gravy and a bunch of sweet herbs, with two onions chopped, and let it boil well together ten minutes. Strain it off through the tammy sieve, add a glass of white wine, and season with a little Cayenne pepper, and salt, with the squeeze o half a lemon. 27. Mock Turtle Soup. Scald a calf's-head with the skin on; put it in sufficient broth (No. 1.) to cover it; add two onions, a few allspice, and a bunch of sweet herbs tied up, as No.1: Let it boil 8 COOKERY. tender (which it will in two hours and a half); strain off the broth, and cut the head and tongue in square pieces : take half a pound of good butter, four large onions chop- ped, a handful of parsley, a tea-spoonful of thyme, ditto of knotted marjoram, and ditto of sweet basil in pow- der : boil it well with the butter; then add a lemon peel, two tea-cupfuls of flour, and a table-spoonful of ground allspice, with pepper, salt, and Cayenne pepper, to the broth which was strained from the head. Let it boil well for a quarter of an hour, then put the pieces of head in with the forcemeat balls, as No. 183, and hard yolks of eggs. When sent to table, to three quarts of the soup, add two large glasses of sherry or Madeira. Four or five yolks of eggs are sufficient for three quarts of soup: 28. White Soup (Soup à la Reine.) To three quarts of white gravy, as No. 7, add one small onion, one head of celery, a small piece of pars- nip, the crumb of three French rolls, the breast of a fowl that has been dressed, or in lieu of it a pound of the whitest part of veal dressed and pounded very fine with a little of the soup, and add three ounces of Jor- dan almonds, blanched, well pounded. When it has boiled all together half an hour rub it through a tammy or sieve, and add one pint of good cream, well scalded ; then season with a little salt and a small piece of sugar, as Note, No. 2. It must not boil much after the cream is in. 29. White Soup with Liason, called Soup à la Fla- mande. Take two or three quarts of good white gravy, as No. 7; put in a small handful of spinach and sorrel, and let it be boiled tender in the soup : season it with salt, and while it is boiling stir in it a pint of cream, well mixed with six yolks of eggs, about two minutes before putting in the tureen. Note. This is called Liason, and is used to thicken SOUPS. 9 any white sauce ; but it must be strained through a sieve or tammy. 30. Soup Cressy. Take two carrots, two turnips, three onions, one parsnip, and three heads of celery cut in slices; put them to stew with a quarter of a pound of butter, a small bunch of parsley, and a pint of brown gravy, No. 6: when stewed sufficiently, rub through a tammy sieve, add two quarts more gravy to it, and season with salt and a small piece of sugar, as Note, No. 2. 31. Friars' Chicken Soup. To two quarts of good brown gravy; (No. 6.) cut a fine chicken in joints ; after it has been scalded put it in the soup with a sufficient seasoning ; let it boil in the soup till done, which will be in about half an hour : then have a good handful of parsley chopped and mixed up with six whole eggs; put these into the soup, and let it boil till it curdles; then put it in the tureen all together. 32. Mulligatani Soup (Indian). Take two quarts of good mutton broth; add eight or ten cutlets of mutton to it, and boil them tender; take two cloves of garlic, two tea-spoonfuls of turmeric pow- der, a table-spoonful of mustard seed, one dozen grains of black pepper, six Cayenne or chillies, six small onions well pounded, and mixed with a tea-cupful of the broth; strain to the other with the meat ; then fry one large onion in slices, with butter, and put to it, and boil it five minutes. Season with salt. 33. Cray Fish Soup. Take half a peck of boiled cray-fish, after the tails are picked out; pound the remainder, heads and shells, in a mortar : then add two quarts of good gravy, (No. 6.) and rub all well through a tammy, after B 5 10 COOKERY. an having boiled a quarter of an hour. When strained, add the tails to it, and a little beetroot-juice to give it additional colour : at sending up, season with a little Cayenne pepper and salt. Note.—Beetroot-juice is made by grating a raw beet- root, and squeezing it through a cloth. 34. Cabbage Soup. To two quarts of gravy, (No. 6.) put a small white cabbage cut in slices and blanched; boil it in the soup, and season with salt. 35. White Celery Soup. Two quarts of white gravy (No. 7.) boiled with six heads of celery; when done tender, strain it, and cut six heads more very fine to put in the soup: pass off two ounces of butter, and three table-spoonfuls of flour, then add the soup with the celery; when suffi- ciently done, add half a pint of good cream, scalded : season as the others. Note.—Macaroni, vermicelli, rice, or any vegetable, cut fine, may be put in the soup the same way as the celery, and the name changed accordingly; but they should all be boiled first. 36. Knuckle of Veal and Rice Soup. To a knucle of veal well scalded, put in three quarts of white gravy, (No. 7.) three ounces of rice, a blade of mace, and sprig of thyme; when it has boiled two hours and a half, put one onion and two heads of celery, cut fine, into it; let it boil half an hour longer; then season it with salt, and take out the large bones, and serve all together in a tureen. Note.- If vegetables boil longer than half an hour, their fine flavour evaporates, especially in soups. (A foul and rice may be done the same way instead of veal, only that the fowl takes a shorter time.) · SOUPS. 37. Soup Maigre. Take a quarter of a pound of butter, burn it in a stew-pan till it is yellow; then put two sliced carrots, two turnips, two onions, and one cabbage, and fry them in the butter well; put to it three quarts of boiling water, and three or four cloves. Let it boil three quar- ters of an hour, then strain it off; take one sliced carrot, one head of endive, one head of celery, a hand- ful of spinach and sorrel, and one lettuce, and boil them in the soup half an hour over a slow fire. If you wish to thicken it, add butter and flour to it, and season with salt, to palate. 38. Onion Soup (Purée). Take twelve onions, one turnip, one head of celery, cut in thin slices, put them into a stew-pan with a quarter of a pound of butter, and one quart of white broth, No. 7. Let all stew till very tender, adding another quart of broth, and rub it through a tammy; add one pint of boiled cream, and two dozen button onions, boiled soft to it: season with salt. 39. Tomato Soup. Cut the stalks of two quarts of quite ripe tomatos; put them in a stew-pan with three onions sliced, one carrot, one head of celery, half a pound of butter, and half a pint of good gravy, No. 6; let it stew till tender, řub it through a tammy, and add three pints more good gravy, and season with salt and Cayenne pepper. Note.-A spoonful of beetroot-juice may be added if not red enough. See Note, No. 33. 40. Turnip Soup. Purée de Navette. Twelve turnips, two onions, one head of celery, cut in slices, and proceed as directed No. 38, adding two dozen pieces of turnip cut with a cutter, and boiled tender; when done, season with salt, 14 COOKERY. 48. Queen Sauce (Sauce à la Reine). Pound the breast of a fowl very fine, add to it a pint of bechamel, No. 45, and a quarter of a pint of cream: season it with salt, and put it in a few drops of lemon juice. 49. Sorrel Sauce. Put two quarts of sorrel in a stew-pan, well washed and picked, with a small piece of butter; let it stew till soft. When done, rub it through a tammy, put a small piece of butter in it, and a quarter of a pint of brown sauce, No. 43, a little salt, and the squeeze of a lemon. 50. Endive Sauce. Blanch, as No. 3, twelve heads of endive; chop them and put them in half a pint of good strong gravy; let them stew till tender; thicken them with half a pint of white sauce, No. 45, and season with salt. 51. Cucumber Sauce. Peel, and cut three or four cucumbers down the middle in four parts, then again two inches long; take out the seeds and cut them round at the ends, put them in a quarter of a pint of vinegar and water, with some salt, and a large onion cut in slices ; let them remain in it one hour; strain them off, and put them in a quarter of a pint of gravy, as No. 7, with one ounce of butter, two table-spoonfuls of vinegar; let them stew in it for three quarters of an hour, and when done tender, add half a pint of white (No. 45.) or brown sauce, (No. 43.) with a little salt to season. 52. Herb Sauce (Fin Herbe). Chop one onion, six mushroons, and a small handful of parsley, very fine; pass the whole off, as No. 48, in two ounces of butter, then add a gill either of white or brown sauce, (No. 43, or 45.) and add a squeeze of a lemon, and salt, SAUCES. 15 53. Onion Sauce. Boil six large onions soft; rub them through a sieve; add three ounces of butter, passed off as No. 47; one table-spoonful of flour, with half a pint of cream: season with a little salt and sugar, as Note, No. 2. 54. Onion Sauce, another way. Boil two dozen of button onions, all of a size, till done tender; put half a pint of bechamel sauce, (No. 46.) and season with salt. Note.—They may be put in the same quantity of brown sauce, No. 43. 55. Sauce Robert. Chop three onions fine; put two ounces of butter, and fry them a light brown; when done, add a quarter of a pint of brown sauce, (No. 43.) a spoonful of ready made mustard; (No. 590.) season with salt and pep- per. 56. Celery Sauce, White. Cut eight heads of celery in thin slices, one inch long; put one ounce of butter and three spoonfuls of white gravy, as No.7: let them stew till tender; then add half a pint of bechamel sauce, No.45 ; season with salt and a little sugar, as Note, No. 2. Note.--This Sauce may be thickened with half a pint of brown sauce, as No. 43, if wanted brown. 57. Parsley Sauce. Boil a bunch of green parsley in salt and water for five minutes; when done, chop it fine, put it in half a pint of bechamel sauce, (No.45.) or good melted butter, the same quantity, Fennel sauce is made the same way, 58. Fennel, Mint, and Parsley Sauce. Take a spoonful of fennel, mint, and parsley, boil them five minutes, and chop them fine ; mix with them 16 COOKERY. half a pint of white sauce (No. 45.) or melted butter. Season with salt, pepper, and squeeze of half a lemon. 59. Lemon Sauce. Take the inside of one lemon free from kernels and rind, cut in small dice; take the liver of a fowl boiled and do the same; add half a pint of bechamel sauce, (No. 45.) or melted butter seasoned with salt. Note. - It is in general used with boiled fowls or chickens. 60. Mushroom Sauce. Peel a pottle of mushrooms, put them in water with the juice of one lemon to keep them white while paring. Strain them, and put them in a stew-pan with a quarter of a pound of butter, a tea-spoonful of salt and pepper together, and the squeeze of half a lemon. When sufi- ciently stewed, which will be in half an hour, put in a thickening of one table-spoonful of flour with half a pint of cream, and let it boil together five minutes. Or, instead of the cream, add bechamel sauce, (No. 45.) or brown sauce, (No. 43.) a half pint. 61. Truffle Sauce. Pare eighteen truffles and slice them, pass them off in two ounces of butter, as No. 47, till tender ; add half a pint of white sauce, (No. 45.) or brown ; (No. 13.) season with salt, and the squeeze of half a lemon. 62. Asparagus Sauce. Blanch, as No. 3, half a pint of asparagus tops or pease till tender ; strain and put half a pint of white sauce, as No. 45; season with salt and a little sugar, as, Note, No. 2. 63. Green Pease Sauce. One pint of green pease, one ounce of butter, two table-spoonfuls of gravy, one tea-spoonful of sugar, two, SAUCES. 17 sprigs of mint, boil them till tender, and add half a pint of white sauce, No. 45; and season with salt, or thicken with a spoonful of thickening, No. 42. 64. Cauliflower Sauce. One small cauliflower boiled tender, put to half a pint of white sauce, No. 45, or melted butter. 65. Potatoe Sauce. Two pounds of new potatoes, or the same quantity of old ones, cut with a round cutter. ' Put in half a pound of butter, constantly shaking over the fire till done ; add half a pint of white sauce, as No. 45, or melted butter. Note.-Plate 3, will show the cutter. 66. Turnip Sauce. Cut six turnips out with cutters, as plate 3 ; boil them tender in broth; strain and add half a pint of white sauce, No. 45, or melted butter; season with salt and a little sugar, as Note, No. 2. 67. Italian Sauce. Chop two heads of garlic, eight shalots, four mush- rooms, and a tea-spoonful of parsley; add two table- spoonfuls of sweet oil; pass it off as No. 47; add half a pint of white sauce, (No. 45.) or brown, (No. 43.) and one glass of white wine. Season with pepper and salt. 68 Tarragon Sauce. Chop a handful of the green leaves of tarragon, pass them off, as No. 47, in butter; when done add half a pint of white sauce, (No. 45.) and season. 69. Carp Sauce. Chop one onion very fine; add a tea-spoonful of pounded allspice; maçe and clove, half the quantity; 18 COOKERY. parsley, thyme, and marjoram, a tea-spoonful; half a pint of brown sauce, (No. 43.) and two glasses of port wine. Let the whole simmer ten minutes ; strain through a tammy, and put to it a tea-spoonful of anchovy essence, three table-spoonfuls of ketchup, and the juice of half a lemon; season with salt and Cayenne pepper. Note.This sauce may be used with carp, tench, eels, or any fresh-water fish. 70. Garlic Sauce. Chop six heads of garlic; pass it off, as No. 47, in two ounces of butter; add half a pint of brown sauce; (No. 43.) season with salt and pepper. 71. Horseradish Sauce, White. Grate a tea-cupful of horseradish ; cover it till wanted; put the crumb of two French rolls in a quarter of a pint of milk, and two ounces of butter; boil them to a pulp; add the horseradish, and season with salt. 72. Horseradish Sauce, Brown. To a tea-cupful of horseradish grated add half a pint of brown sauce, (No. 43.) and two table-spoonfuls of vinegar; season with salt and a little sugar, as Note, No. 2. 73. Capers Sauce. Chop half a tea-cupful of capers, put them in half a pint of white sauce, No. 45, or melted butter, season with salt and pepper. Note.--If for a made dish, the capers must be put in whole, 74. Dutch Sauce. Scrape a tea-cupful of horseradish, boil it in a quar- ter of a pint of water or broth, pass off, as No. 47, in three ounces of butter, with three table spoonfuls of flour; add the liquor of the horseradish by degrees, SAUCES. 19 stir it to a smooth paste, add a quarter of a pint of eream and the yolks of six eggs beat together, with three spoonfuls of elder vinegar; season with salt. 75. Sauce Poivrade. Chop ten shalots, boil them in a quarter of a pint of brown gravy, as No. 6, add two table-spoonfuls of vi- negar; season with salt; serve all together without straining 76. Mustard Sauce. Mix two table-spoonfuls of ready made mustard, as No. 590, with a quarter of a pint of white sauce, (No. 45.) or melted butter. Note. This sauce is used with fresh boiled lobsters, herrings, and tripe. 77. Sauce Piquante. Pass off, as No. 47, a table-spoonful of chopped onion, parsley, and mushroom together; add a quarter of a pint of brown sauce, (No. 43.) two table-spoonfuls of vinegar; season it with salt. 78. Sauce Flamande. Pass off, as No. 47, one clove of garlic, a tea-spoonful of parsley chopped, a quarter of lemon peel grated, half a tea-spoonful of cloves and mace pounded; add a quarter of a pint of brown sauce, as No. 43, boil and strain through a tammy; season with salt, and add the juice of half a lemon. 79. Green Sauce. Take a tea-cupful of the spinach-juice, as directed No. 22, add the juice of one lemon, two yolks of eggs beat up, one tea-spoonful of sugar; just warm it to- gether, and serve. 80. Sauce Hachée. Take a large table-spoonful of chopped onions, ditto 20 COOKERY. of parsley, ditto of pickled cucumber, ditto of capers, ditto boiled carrots; pass the onions and parsley off, as No. 47, in two ounces of butter; add half a pint of brown sauce, (No. 43) and the other ingredients ; boil them all together, and season with salt, and the juice of half a lemon, and a little sugar, as Note, No. 2. 81. Burnt Butter. A quarter of a pound of butter stirred very slowly over the fire, till it gets a good brown; then put in a tea-cupful of vinegar, with salt to season it; heat it to- gether, and put it in a sauce-boat. Note.—This sauce is generally used for boiled skate. Parsley may be put in if required. 82. Seville Sauce. Take two spoonfuls of sweet oil; pass off, as No. 47, four heads of garlic, one small onion, and a few leaves of tarragon, chopped; add two cloves pounded; boil these in half a pint of brown sauce. (No. 43.) Then add one glass of white wine, strain, and add the juice of half a lemon: season with salt. 83. Ravigote Sauce. Chop two cloves of garlic, a tea-spoonful of parsley, ditto of tarragon, ditto of chervil, ditto of water-cresses, and one anchovy; pass them off as No. 47, in two ounces of butter; add half a pint of brown sauce ; (No. 43.) season with salt and the juice of half a lemon. 84. Remoulade Sauce. Take two spoonfuls of grated horseradish, one ditto of mustard, made as No. 590; fry one large onion, two cloves of garlic, chopped; boil them in half a pint of brown sauce; (No. 43.) strain, and add the horse- radish and mustard, with a glass of white wine; season with pepper and salt. SAUCES. 21 85. Relishing Sauce for Cold Meat. Grate a tea-cupful of horseradish ; put a spoonful of sugar, and as much vinegar as will cover it, with a little salt and a spoonful of made mustard, as No. 590. 86. Aspic Sauce for Cold Salads. Rub three boiled yolks of eggs in a mortar, put one ounce of salt, a quarter of a pint of oil by degrees, till it becomes thick, then add one spoonful of anchovy essence, and a quarter of a pint of tarragon vinegar. Note.--This sauce is used for Italian, lobster, or cold salads. 87. Lobster Sauce. Pick the spawn out of the inside of a hen lobster, pound it with two ounces of butter, and rub it through a sieve; cut the lobster in small pieces, and add all to- gether, to a half pint of melted butter, one spoonful of anchovy essence, with the squeeze of a lemon: season with Cayenne pepper. Note.—The outward spawn of a lobster is not to be used if it can be avoided, as it is in general very rank. 88. Lobster Sauce another way. Pick and cut the lobster small; chop the inside spawn ; add to it half a pint of white sauce, as No. 45 ; season with a tea-spoonful of anchovy essence and lemon juice. 89. Shrimp Sauce. Take half a pint of shrimps, picked; put them in half a pint of melted butter, with a tea-spoonful of anchovy essence, a little Cayenne, and the juice of half a lemon. 90. Anchovy Sauce. Melted butter seasoned with anchovy, a squeeze of lemon, and Cayenne to taste. 22 COOKERY. 9). Cockle Sauce. Boil two quarts of cockles without water ; strain the liquor and let it settle; pick the cockles out and wash them well; take a quarter of a pound of butter, and a quarter of a pint of the liquor of the cockles, mix both with a table spoonful of flour ; boil all together five minutes ; put the cockles in; season with pepper, salt, and squeeze of lemon. 92. Crab Sauce. Pick the meat out of a crah, take the inside part and pound it with two ounces of butter, and rub it through a sieve; then add the meat of the claws, cut small, to a half pint of melted butter ; season with salt, pepper, and the squeeze of a lemon. 93. Oyster Sauce. Beard three dozen good-sized oysters; put them in a stew-pan with the liquor, six ounces of butter, and a table-spoonful of flour; let them just boil one minute all together; add a tea-cupful of cream ; season with pepper and salt, and the squeeze of a lemon; and, if agreeable, a little grated nutmeg may be added. 94. Ragout Onion Sauce. Fry three Spanish onions, cut in slices; add these, when brown, to half a pint of brown sauce; (No. 43.) season with Cayenne pepper, salt, and the squeeze of a lemon. 95. Sauce Poulette. Add six yolks of eggs, beat up with two spoonfuls of cream, and the juice of one lemon, to half a pint of white sauce ; (No. 45.) heat it together; season with salt. 96. Wine, or Sweet Sauce. Melt two ounces of butter with one spoonful of flour, 24 COOKERY. of the white, if wanted brown. They are in genera served with roast mutton. 103. Spanish Sauce (Sauce Espagnol). Boil one dozen button onions, also two dozen of chestnuts tender, and peel them; add a sweetbread, broiled and cut in pieces, with two dozen forcemeat- balls; (No. 183.) add twelve mushrooms, six truffles cut in slices, one pint of brown sauce, No. 43, two spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar; boil all together, and season with salt and pepper. 104. Ragout Sauce. Blanch, as No. 3, six fat livers, twenty inside eggs, and twelve combs of fowls, and one dozen of forcemeat- balls; (No. 183.) boil them all tender with twelve mushrooms, four truffles, and two sweetbreads; put hem into a pint and a half of brown sauce; (No. 43.) season with salt and pepper, and the squeeze of a lemon. Note.--The inside eggs of a hen are procured at the poulterers at all times. 105. Maitre d'Hôtel Sauce. Chop eight shalots, one tea-spoonful of parsley, one ditto of fennel, one dozen mushrooms; pass them off, as No. 47, in two ounces of butter, add half a pint of brown sauce; (No.43.) boil them together ten minutes; season with salt and pepper, and the squeeze of a lemon. Note.--If wanted white, add white sauce, the same quantity, (No. 43.) instead of brown. 106. Gooseberry Sauce. Put half a pint of green gooseberries in a pint of water, let them simmer till soft, without breaking. Note.—They are in general served with mackarel and boiled house-lamb. * 106. Mint Sauce. Chop a handful of green mint, put two spoonfuls of 26 COOKERY. 112. Salad Mixture. Chop and rub four shalots in a mortar, with six boiled yolks of eggs, a spoonful of salt, and ditto of made mus- tard; add half a pint of salad-oil by degrees: when perfectly smooth, add also half a pint of vinegar; mix it well, and keep it in an incorporater well stopped, shaking it before using. 113. Camp Vinegar. A quarter of an ounce of Cayenne pepper, four heads of garlic, chopped, half a drachm of cochineal, three spoonfuls of soy, three ditto of walnut ketchup, one quart of vinegar; mix all together, and let it stand in a warm place a month, then strain it off. 114. Cucumber Vinegar, Slice six large cucumbers, with two large onions; put to them three pints of vinegar, and two ounces of salt; let them stand three days, then strain and let it settle ; bottle it, put a few peppercorns in each bottle. 115. Tomata Ketchup for Sauce. Put two quarts of ripe tomatas in a pan, and bake them in an oven till soft ; rub the pulp from the skin through a sieve; add ten cloves of garlic, ginger, all- spice, and cloves, altogether one ounce; a quarter of a pound of salt, and one pound of lean hạm; let it stew for one hour; when cold, strain through a sieve, and bottle it. Note. When this is wanted, three large spoonfuls put to any sauce will be sufficient; or, a piece of butter rolled in flour, and boiled in it, to thicken. 116. Mushroom Ketchup. Chop two pecks of mushrooms fine, add a pound of salt, and let it stand four days: then strain and press through a cloth; let the liquor settle ; pour it off, in a * } . FRYING. 27 stew-pan; add half an ounce of allspice, and ditto of whole pepper; one piece of ginger; boil it half an hour together; when cold strain it off, and bottle it. 117. Piquante (or sharp) Sauce, cold. One quart of pickled red cabbage vinegar; a quarter of a pint of walnut ketchup; six anchovies ; half a red herring, pounded, with three heads of garlic, a tea spoonful of Cayenne pepper: mix all these ingredients together, and let it stand eight days, and filter it through a bag for use. 118. Laver. Is in general prepared and sold in jars : when got fresh from the sea, wash it well in four or five waters ; let it drain well ; put it in a kettle in the oven and bake it six hours, till quite soft. Cover it over when cold with hot mutton suet, and keep the jars tied close. Note.-When wanted to use as a dish, take a pint of it; put two ounces of butter, a tea-spoonful of salt, and the juice of one lemon, and serve it quite hot. It is generally sent to table with mutton roasted, or eggs. FRYING. Is done in two ways: one is on a saute, or frying-pan, (see No. 121.) with a small portion of butter, just to keep the article from sticking to it; when done on one side a fine brown, turn it on the other till brown also. The second way is with plenty of fat for the article fried to swim in, or sufficient to cover it completely; hog's- lard is best-but if not to be had, good clarified drip- ping, as directed in No. 469, will answer the purpose. The fat must be boiling hot when the article is put in; which may be ascertained by sprinkling a little water in it ; if it makes a quick noise it is fit to fry. I have noticed a few articles, and the time necessary. C2 28 COOKERY. for frying. If fish are fried they must be well dried, in a cloth dipped in whole eggs beat up, and covered with crumbs of bread. Slices of Cod will take fifteen minutes.. Slices of Salmon, ditto. Soles, from five to fifteen minutes, according to size. Smelts, five minutes. Whiting, seven to ten minutes. Carp, fifteen minutes. Skate, ten minutes, Eels, ditto. Perch, five to ten minutes, Oysters, three minutes. Tripe in batter, eight minutes. Rissoles, five minutes. Fruit Fritters, eight minutes. Note.The fat will serve to fry four or five times over, provided it be strained through a sieve, MADE DISHES. Î19. Braizing, or stewing Meat tender, with fat Bacon. The article that is to be braized must always be blanched in hot water first, as directed in No. 3; then put into a stew-pan just large enough to hold it, with thin slices of fat bacon under and over ; also, one onion, twenty peppercorns, and allspice, with three slices of lemon without the peel, and as much gravy or broth as to keep it stewing without covering it; adding to it, as it boils away, and suffer to stew till it is quite tender. As I shall have occasion to mention the word braizing often, according to the different made dishes, it will be necessary to remark the operation particularly, as diffe- rent articles take more or less time, according to their substance and size; and as French made dishes MADE DISHES. 29 are generally braized, it is proper to understand it well. This method is to give the meats, and poultry, so braized, a very rich flavour, and is far superior to plain boiling. If not convenient, or too much trouble, to braize the article, it may be boiled, as given under the direction Boiling. The braize which is left may be used several times, if kept clean; and an article which requires to be kept any length of time, may be preserved by keeping it in the braize ; and, when wanted, warm and strain it. Meat, poultry, and game, will keep a fortnight in it. 120. Ox Cheek. Blanch it, as No. 3, put it on to braize, as No. 119, quite tender, which will take five hours; when done, take out the bones, trim it neatly, and glaze it as No 8. and put a sharp sauce, or sauce of roots (See Sauces.) under it. Note.-Glazing is done by melting the portable gravy, and brushing it over the top till it is entirely covered. 121. Beef Collops. Cut eighteen thin slices of collops off the rump, flatten them, season with pepper and salt; then throw a spoonful of onion, parsley, and mushrooms, chopped, over the beef; fry them quick in a saute-pan, cut them round with a cutter, place them round a dish, and put mushrooms or sharp sauce (See Sauces.) in the centre. Note.-The saute-pan is a flat round frying-pan, not so deep as the common one. Palates in collops are done the same way. 122. Beef Palates, plain, Scald the palates by just letting them come to a boil ; put them in cold water and skin them; put them in a 30 COOKERY. braize, as No. 119; let them stew three hours till ten- der. As they are now prepared for serving different ways, I shall point out some. 123. Beef Palates, with Forcemeat. Prepare them as beef palates plain, No. 122; lay the palates whole, quite even; rub them over with an egg beat up, spread it with forcemeat as No. 183, season with salt and pepper, roll them up and tie them; braize them, as No. 119, half an hour, then take the string off and glaze them over with glazing, No. 8; serve cucumber sauce under them. (See Sauces.) 124. Beef Palates, in Cutlets. Prepare them as No. 122; cut them out the shape of a cutlet; pass off, as No. 47, chopped onion, parsley, and mushroom, a table-spoonful, put over them, and season with pepper and salt; dip them in two eggs beat up, and crumb them. Fry them on the saute-pan, as 121, and serve tomata sauce under them. 125. Palates for Patties. Prepare them as No. 122; minee them fine; pass off as No. 47, two shalots, two mushrooms, and a spoonful of parsley, chopped, and add as much white sauce, No. 45, as will make them of a proper consistence to put into pat- ties; season with salt, pepper, and the squeeze of a lemon. 126. Beef Tail. Joint the tails and scald them; put them to braize two hours, as No. 119; when quite tender, glaze them, and serve with harrico roots, or sauce hachée, under them. (See Sauces.) 127. Beef Tails Crumbed. Blanch and braize as No. 126; when done tender glaze them, and cover with fried crumbs of bread; serve MADB DISHES. 31 with the white mushroom sauce or stewed cabbage, (See Sauces.) 128. Beef Tails à la Mode. Joint the tails and scald them, cover them with good broth, add one lemon-peel, eight cloves pounded, two bay leaves, three pieces of bacon, two onions cut, and a tea-cupful of ketchup; let them stew till tender; when done thicken with a little of the thickening No. 42, add the squeeze of a lemon, and season with Cayenne pepper, and salt, and a small piece of sugar. 129. Beef Kidneys. Cut two kidneys in slices, put them into a stew-pan with two ounces of butter at the bottom, a spoonful of parsley, onion, and mushroom, each chopped; cover them with fat bacon, let them stew one hour, strain the liquor off, and thicken with a spoonful of flour; season with salt and pepper, half a glass of white wine, and the squeeze of a lemon. Note.-The kidneys require no broth or gravy. 130. Beef Kidneys with Onions. Slice two kidneys and six large onions, put them to- gether in a stew-pan with two ounces of butter; season with pepper and salt; let them boil one hour, strain them, and thicken the gravy with thickening, as No. 42. 131. Beef Steaks slewed. Cut a couple of rump steaks, put them in a stew-pan, and cover with slices of fat bacon, two onions, three cloves, a piece of lemon-peel, and half a pint of white wine. Let them stew till tender; when done take all the fat off, and thicken the liquor with thickening, as No. 42, and season with Cayenne pepper, and salt, and half a lemon squeezed. If approved, a few button onions may be blanched and put with them. 32 COOKERY. 132. Beef Udder. The udder must be boiled first, then cut in slices, and served with any sauce that is thick or relishing, and may be placed the same way as the collops of beef. (No. 121.) Tomata sauce is often served with this. (See Sauces.) TRIPE After being boiled tender, may be dressed in various ways: as most people know the common way, I shall note two or three different ones. 133. Trine Collops. When the tripe is boiled very tender, cut it in round pieces with the cutter; pass off, as No. 47, a tea- spoonful of chopped onions, parsley, and mushrooms; pour it over the collops, place them round a dish, and put a quarter of a pint of white sauce, as No. 45, or white mushroom sauce to it. (See Sauces.) 134. Tripe Marinated. Lay the tripe in half a pint of vinegar and a glass of wine mixed together, one lemon-peel, two bay leaves, two onions cut in slices, for four hours; bake it in the oven one hour, strain it, and put a sauce piquante un- der it. (See Sauces.) 135. Fried Tripe. Cut it in neat squares; pass off, as No. 47, two ounces of butter, a table-spoonful of chopped onion, parsley, and mushrooms ; pour it over the tripe, egg and crumb it, and fry it a good colour in plenty of lard. 136. Scarlet or Hunting Beef. Rub a round of beef well with three pounds of salt four ounces of saltpetre finely pounded, and half a MADE DISHES, 33 pound of brown sugar; let it stand twelve hours, and add a handful of whole pepper, ditto of allspice; let it remain in the pickle three weeks, turn it frequently; when it is to be dressed, wash it well, put it in a large dish, with plenty of suet at the bottom and top (a good sized stock-pot is the best), cover it well and paste the cover down all round. It will take six hours baking in a moderate oven. When done pour off the liquor, and let it stand till cold. 137. Beef Forcemeat. This is often wanted for the bottom of pies. Scrape two pounds of beef free from the sinews, one pound of fat bacon, one pound of beef suet chopped, pound it fine in a mortar with one onion chopped, a tea-spoonful of powdered marjoram and thyme, and half the quantity of pounded mace, also a tea-spoonful of allspice powder. Season with pepper and salt, and mix three whole eggs with it all together. 138. Rump of Beef à la Mode. Take the bone out of a rump of beef, doub it with thick pieces of bacon, and tie it up. Put it in a stew- pan with slices of fat bacon under and over it; add three large onions, a lemon peel, four bay leaves, twelve cloves, four blades of mace, and a tea-spoonful of allspice, two carrots, and a bunch of marjoram, thyme, and parsley, tied all up. Add a quart of gravy, and a bottle of white wine, and let it stew four hours till tender ; when done, strain the liquor and take off the fat; thicken it with two spoonfuls of the thickening, as No. 42. Season with salt and pepper; and a few mushrooms, truffles, and morels may be served in the sauce. Glaze the beef with glazing, as No. 8. Spanish onions may be braized and glazed, and laid round the beef with the same sauce. Note.-Doubing, is larding the meat quite through c5 34 COOKERY. 1 the middle with pieces of bacon the size and thickness of a finger. 139. Beef Brisket Stewed. Tye up with tape about nine pounds of the best end of the brisket. Put it on in broth, and cover with one carrot, three turnips, two heads of celery, one parsnip, and four onions ; let it boil five hours till tender. Glaze it, and serve sauce of roots under it, or cucumber sauce, (See Sauces.) 140. Slices of Beef. Cut three slices off the ribs ; lard and glaze them, and braize, as No. 119; when tender glaze, and serve sorrel sauce under them. 141. Beef Tongue, Fresh. Lard it with fat bacon over the top; braize it, as No. 119, four hours ; glaze, and serve mushroom sauce, or ragout under it. (See Sauces.) al 142. Beef Tongue baked in a Case. Enclose a pickled tongue, that has been boiled tender, in raised pie paste, (No.332.) ornamented with the same, and bake it one hour. Note. It is served without sauce. 2 143. Beef pickled Tongue to boil. If dry, soak it twelve hours before boiling ; boil it gently four hours, then dip it in cold water and skin it; cut off the root neatly and glaze itz put spinach, chopped cabbage, or brown sauce, (No. 43.) under it. 144. German à la Mode Beef. Cut six pounds of the veiny part of beef in pieces ; blanch it, as No. 3, cover it with two quarts of thin MADB DISHES. 35 broth or water ; add the rinds of two lemons cut small, six onions in slices, three table-spoonfuls of ground all- spice, two bay leaves, half a pint of mushroom ketchup, and a handful of champignons. Let all this boil till the meat is tender, which will be in three hours; strain and skim the fat off, and thicken with two spoonfuls of thickening. (No. 42.) Season with salt and pepper, the squeeze of a lemon, a small piece of sugar; (No. 4.) boil all together ten minutes. If a few pieces of bacon be added in the boiling they will make it richer. Note.--It may be thickened by mixing two spoon- fuls of four with the liquor, and boiling it half an hour. 145. German Onion Beef, called Szwiebel Fleish. Take six pounds of beef, the thin flank is best, blanch it, as No.3, and put two quarts of water or thin broth to it'; add the rinds of three lemons 'cut fine, a quarter of an ounce of cloves pounded, two bay leaves, and half a pint of vinegar, with a quarter of a pint of mushroom ketchup. Let this boil two hours gently, then add eighteen large onions cut into slices, and boiled three quarters of an hour longer. Take off the fat and thicken with two spoonfuls of thickening. (No. 42.) Season with pepper and salt, and a small lump of sugar, and boil it five minutes. 146. Sour Beef, or Sauer Braten. Take out the bone of a rump of beef. Doub it through the inside, as No. 138; rub it well over with a table-spoonful of allspice, two drachms of cloves, two ditto of mace, a little salt; put all into a pan with a pint of vinegar, one glass of white wine, three onions sliced, a bunch of marjoram, thyme, and parsley, three bay leaves, one lemon peel; let it lay in this mixture a week, turning it frequently. When it is dressed, take it out of the pickle, put it in a dish with half the pickle, cover it with slices of bacon. Bake it two hours and a # 36 COOKERY. half; when done, strain the liquor from it, take off the fat, season it with salt, and thicken it with the thicken- ing, No. 42, boil it together three minutes. 147. Fillet of Beef larded (or Fricandeaux). Take out the inside of a sirloin ; lard it over the top with bacon, put it to braize, as No. 119; when done quite tender glaze it, and put sorrel sauce under it. (See Sauces.) 148. Minced Beef and Eggs poached. Mince one pound and a half of dressed beef; pass off, as No. 47 ; a spoonful of chopped parsley, ditto onion and ditto mushroom; put half a pint of brown sauce, as No. 43, to it, and the minced beef. Season with salt and pepper, and serve eight poached eggs under it. (See Poached Eggs, No. 471.) 149. Hashed Beef. Cut one pound and half of dressed beef in small flat pieces of the size of a shilling ; pass it off, as No. 47, chopped fine, a table-spoonful of onion,ditto mushrooms, ditto of parsley ; add half a pint of brown sauce, as No. 43, with two table spoonfuls of mushroom ketchup. Season with salt, and pepper, and the squeeze of a lemon; sliced pickle cucumbers are often added. Serve it with fried sippets, or bread. Note. In this way veal, mutton, lamb, and game, are hashed. 150. Beef Olives. Flatten some beef off the rump, in lengths a foot, and in width four inches; spread some forcemeat, No. 137, on 't; roll the beef up, and tie it; braize it, as No. 119, one hour; glaze and serve piquante sauce under it (See Sau es.) Note-Veal Olives are done in the same way. 38 COOKERY. it into pots, and cover it over with the remainder of the butter it was baked in. Note-Veal and fowl are done the same way. 156. Boullie Beef, or Soup and Boullie. Cut six pounds of the brisket part in pieces ; blanch it, as No. 3; cover it with three quarts of broth, or water; when it has boiled three hours, put in three carrots, two turnips, a handful of parsley leaves, three onions, and two heads of celery, cut small; boil it one hour longer altogether; take off the fat, and season with salt and small piece of sugar; send it in the tureen together. 157. Beef and Sauer Kraut. Blanch, as No. 3, six pounds of beef in a piece; put it in a stew-pan, covered over with sauer kraut; (No. 479.) add a pint of weak broth; let it stew gently four hours ; send it in a deep dish all together; it needs no other seasoning ; if not sour enough squeeze a lemon in it on sending up. 158. Beef Sausages. Chop two pounds of lean beef, and one pound of suet very fine; put a tea-spoonful of pounded thyme, ditto sage, ditto allspice, with pepper and salt to season. Put them in skins well cleaned and washed. 159. Beef Marrow-bones. Salt the bones of a round of beef cut in two; saw them off top and bottom, to stand even ; scrape them clean and put a little thick paste over them to prevent the marrow falling out; lay them in a cloth, and boil one hour and a half; serve them upright in a dish with paper twisted round them, and pieces of toast upon & napkin, MADE DISHES. 39 160. Shin of Beef Soup. Cut off the gristly part of two legs of beef, and two neat's feet, with some of the veiny part of it, but not all; scald it well, and put it in a stew-pan covered with water; add a couple of carrots, and two onions ; put in a gentle oven to bake ten or twelve hours; when quite tender take out the vegetables; take off the fat, and season with salt and pepper. Serve all together in a tureen. Note.-Oat cake should be sent up at the same time. 161. Olive le Roi. Mash two pounds of boiled potatoes ; add a quarter of a pint of cream, two yolks of eggs, and one spoonful of flour; season it with salt and pepper ; take six long slices of beef, beat out very thin; strew over them a spoonful of chopped onion, ditto of parsley, ditto of mushrooms; spread this potatoe paste on the beef, and roll it up; fry or bake it half an hour; glaze them and put some plain brown sauce, (No. 43.) under them, Six will make a good sized dish. Note.-Veal may be done the same way. 162. Fricatel of Beef. Chop fine one pound and a half of lean raw beef, a quarter of a pound of suet, half a pound of raw ham, and a quarter of a pound of fat of bacon; the rasping of two French rolls, one small onion, and a tea-spoonful of parsley chopped, half a nutmeg grated, and two whole eggs, mixed all together, and seasoned with pepper and salt; put it in a mould lined with slices of fat bacon, and bake or boil one hour and a half in a stew-pan. Serve plain brown sauce, as No. 43, under it. Note.- Veal, fowl, or game, may be done instead of beef this way. 40 COOKERY 163. Neat's Feet with Mock Turtle Sauce. Boil two feet tender ;, when cold, cut the meat into small square pieces ; put them into a pint of mock turtle sauce, (See Sauces.) with forcé. meat-balls, (No. 183.) and mushrooms may be added. 164. Beef Steak Pie. Cut two pounds of beef, fat and lean, in thin slices; cut four boiled potatoes in slices; chop a small onion fine, and season each layer of beef and potatoes with pepper, salt, and the onion, till the dish is full : cover it with puff-paste, and bake in a moderate oven one hour and a half; when done, put half a pint of good gravy, warmed, in it. Note. This may be done the same in a raised paste, putting a brown sauce to it, as No. 43. BOILING MEATS AND POULTRY. 165. As the boiling of articles in cookery constitutes the principal part of it, I think it necessary to be as ex- plicit as possible that it may be accomplished with ease and certainty; and have given directions as to the time necessary for most large joints as well as small ones. Fish and vegetables being distinct articles, I have treated on them separately, and given directions under their different heads. The principal thing in boiling is, in the first place, to have whatever utensil is used perfectly clean; secondly to use plenty of water; and, when the article boils, to have it well skimmed : continue to do so until no more rises, repeatedly filling up the vessel with hot water as it consumes, and keeping it boiling gently, as it has a greater effect on the meats, and make them more tender than when boiled in a violent or furious manner, which only serves to harden and spoil them. BOILING MEATS AND POULTRY. 41 Mutton and pork should be put in cold water and suffered to boil gently. Fowls, chickens, lamb, and rabbits to be put in boil- ing water, sufficient to cover them, with a small piece of crumbof bread, and about two ounces of chopped mutton or beef suet, and a slice of lemon without peel. The object of this is to keep the article perfectly white dur- ing the operation of boiling, and to gather any impurity that may arise. The liquor will serve afterwards to make soups and brothş; and when it is cold the fat may be used or clarified, as dripping. Care must be taken to keep the pot covered during the time of boiling, that no dust or smoke may hurt it; and also to regu- late it by time, that the article do not remain in the water long after it is done, as it soddens and loses all its juices and flavour. A round of beef of twenty-five pounds will take four hours and a half, reckoning from the time it boils, as all joints are to be reckoned, and allowing a quarter of an hour to every pound of meat. Aitch bone, of twelve pounds weight, three hours. Brisket of beef, of ten pounds, ditto. Leg of mutton, of ten pounds, three hours: a tur- nip and sprig of thyme to be added. Neck of mutton, of seven pounds, two hours. Shoulder of ditto, of eight pounds, two hours and a half. Leg of lamb, of five pounds, one hour and a half in boiling water. Neck of lamb, four pounds, one hour and quarter. Leg of pork, of eight pounds, two hours and a half. Hand of pork, of six pounds, two hours. Ham, of sixteen pounds, five hours. Beef tongues, from three to four hours. Bacon, of three pounds, one hour and a half. . Pig's cheek, two hours. Pig's feet and ears, three hours, 42 COOKERY Neck of veal, of ten pounds, two hours and a half. Breast of ditto, of ten ditto, two hours and a half. Knuckle of ditto, of eight ditto, two hours and a half. Calf's head, with skin on, two hours and a half. Fowls, one hour; rabbits, one hour; chickens, from one quarter to three quarters of an hour; partridge half an hour; moor-game, three quarters of an hour; phea- sants, like turkeys, one hour. Small hen turkeys, from one hour to one hour and half; larger ditto, from one hour and a quarter to two hours, a 166. Calf's Head, plain. Boil the head split (See Boiling) with the skin on, tender; take the brains, blanch and chop them; slice the tongue; pass off, as No. 47, a spoonful of chopped sage and parsley, add a half pint of white sauce, (No. 45.) or melted butter; season with pepper and salt and the squeeze of a lemon. Glaze, as No. 120, the head over, and put fried crumbs of bread over it. Trim the head neatly, by cutting the ears and nose off. 167. Calf's Head to hash. Cut the head, when boiled, as No. 166, in small fillets, and put it in a sauce made as mock turtle (see Sauces); add a dozen forcemeat balls, as No. 183; blanch the brains, as No. 3, chop them, and put å tea-spoonful of sage pounded, pepper and salt, with a drachm of mace, a table-spoonful of flour, and one egg; fry them in small round cakes, and put the hash in. 168. Calf's Cheek, boned. When boiled, as No. 166, perfectly tender; take ou the bones and trim it, serve mushroom sauce (see Sauces) under it; glaze, as No. 120, the head all over. BOILING MEATS AND POULTRY. 43 169. Calf's Brains (Cervelle de Veau Bechamel). Soak the brains whole in water, take off the mem- brane, and blanch as No. 3, gently, that they do not break. When done, put them whole in a bechamel sauce, see No. 45, and season with salt. Note:-Lamb's brains are done the same way. 170. Calf's Brains, another way. After being scalded and cleaned, chop them; pass off, as No. 47, one spoonful chopped onions, mushrooms, parsley, and sage; add half a pint of white sauce, as No. 45; season with pepper and salt, and put fried crumbs over them, and serve with fried sippets round. 171. Calf's Liver to Fry. Cut the liver in thin slices, and fry it in butter; put some fried bacon round it, and pour a little brown sauce, as No. 43, which may be made in the pan after the liver is fried; pút two ounces of butter and a spoonful of flour in it, and let it fry together a minute; then add a tea-cupful of broth or water, two table-spoonfuls of ketchup, with salt and pepper; let it boil two minutes; strain through a sieve over the fried liver. 172. Calf's Feet, Maitre d'Hótel. Boil the feet tender three hours in broth, take the bones out, dry the feet well with a cloth, and put half a pint maître d'hôtel sauce over them. (See Sauces.) 173. Calf's Feet broiled. Boil the feet three hours, put them in a dish, and pour over them one spoonful of chopped onion, mush- room, and parsley; pass off, as No. 47, with two ounces of butter; glaze as No. 120, and crumb them with fried crumbs; mark them across with a hot iron, as if broiled; put brown sauce, No. 43, under them. Note. - Or the ears boiled and cut in slips, may be put in a sauce Robert. (See Sauces.) COOKERY. 174. Veal Sweetbreads with Pease, or Ris de Veau au Pois. Blanch three sweetbreads, as No. 3, braize them, as No. 119, for half an hour, cut them in slices and glaze them as No. 120; serve stewed peas under them. (See Stewed Pease.) 175. Larded Sweetbreads (Ris de Veau Pique.) Lard a couple of large heart sweetbreads over the top; braize them, as No. 119, one hour; glaze as No. 120, · and put asparagus, pease, or mushroom sauce under them. (See Sauces.) Lambs' sweetbreads may be done in the same way. 176. Sweetbread Cutlets (Cottelet de Ris de Veau). Blanch, as No. 3, three heart sweetbreads; slice and cut them in the shape of cutlets; - pass off, as No. 47, a spoonful of chopped onion, mushroom, and parsley, in two ounces of butter, and pour it over them with pepper and salt; dip them in egg, and crumb them, put them in a saute-pan, as No. 121, with butter, to fry brown. Note.-Any sauce may be served under them; herb or asparagus is the best. (See Sauces.) 177. Sweetbread Collops (Escalop de Ris de Veau). Braize, as No. 119, three sweetbreads; cut them in round slices with a cutter, place them in the dish alter- nately, with a collop of tongue or ham boiled cut round; serve with mushroom sauce. (See Sauces.). 178. Sweetbread for Patties. Braize, as No. 119, two sweetbreads one hour; cut them in small dice; pass off, as No. 47, two shalots, three mushrooms, and a tea-spoonful of parsley chopped BOILING MEATS AND POULTRY. 45 in two ounces of butter, and a quarter of a pint of sauce tournée to it; make it of a thick consistence; season with salt and pepper and the squeeze of a lemon. 179. Sweetbread Rissoles. Proceed as for patties, No. 178; when cold roll them up in small rolls, egg them, and crumb them twice over; fry them in hot lard, and serve fried parsley with them. Note.--All kinds of meat, game, and poultry, may be done in the same way. 180. Sweetbread Pie (Patté François). Raise a crust as raised paste, No. 332; blanch, as No. 3, four sweetbreads; cut them in slices; pass off, as No. 47, a spoonful of onion, parsley, and mushrooms, and pour it over the sweetbreads; season with salt and pepper; put them in the pie-crust with a layer of force- meat, (No. 183.) also eight cock's combs, eight truffles, eight morels, and two dozen of asparagus tops; and when filled, cover it with slices of fat bacon. Cover with crust, and bake it one hour; take off the crust and slices of bacon; when that is done pour the fat off, and put half a pint of brown sauce, as No. 43, in it, well seasoned. 181. Roast Sweetbreads. Braize three heart sweetbreads, as No. 119, one hour; glaze them, as No. 120, put fried crumbs of bread over them quite hot; serve brown sauce, as No.43, or mush- room. (See Sauces.) 182. Fried Sweetbreads. Cut them in slices, raw; flour and season with pepper and salt; fry them in a saute-pan, as No. 121, with bútter; serve fried parsley with them. 46 COOKERY. 183. Veal Forcemeat (Godiveau). Scrape a pound of veal and half a pound of fat bacon; pound it fine in a mortar, add the crumb of a French roll, mace and nutmeg one drachm each, a table- spoonful of chopped onions, parsley, and mushroom, with pepper and salt; mix all this together, with two whole eggs, and rub it through a sieve. Note. This forcemeat is used on all occasions for balls, pies, &c. 184. Rissoles à la Choisey, Take forcemeat, as No. 183, roll it up in balls, crumb it twice, fry it in hot fat; serve fried parsley with it. ** 185. Egy Balls. Pound six boiled yolks of eggs with two raw, and a tea-spoonful of flour, and season with a little salt; make this paste up in small balls, and boil them two minutes. Note.—These are used for soups and dishes that re- quire egg balls. 186. Tendons of Veal, or Tendon de Veau, Cut out the gristly part of a breast of veal the whole length; cut it in lengths in three or four pieces, or they may be cut slantways in a dozen pieces; trim them round, and blanch, as No. 3, put them in a braize, as No. 119; when stewed quite tender, which will take five hours, take them out of the braize, carefully glaze them over, as No. 120, and serve stewed pease, or mush- room sauce under them. Note.—You may glaze and crumb them with fried crumbs for a change, 187. Stewed Breast of Veal (Poitrine de Veau Ragout). Put some forcemeat, as No, 183, between the gristle BOILING MEATS AND POULTRY. 47 and meat, and tie it up; blaneh it, as No. 3, put it in a braize, as No. 119, let it stew three hours till tender, take out the the bones and glaze it, as No. 120; serve stewed pease, celery, or ragout sauce under it. Note.Neck of veal may be done the same way. 188. Breast of Veal Larded (Poitrine de Veau Pique). Lard the top of a breast of veal, and proceed as breast of veal ragout. When done, serve å sorrel or harrico sauce under it. Note.-Neck of veal may be larded the same way. 189. Breast of Veal marinated. Trim the breast of veal, put it in 'a marinade two hours; the marinade is half a pint of vinegar, a glass of wine, a small bunch of sweet herbs, two onions cut in slices, two bay leaves, a tea-spoonful of mace and allspice in powder; let the veal lie in it three hours, bake it in the marinade, when done glaze it, as No, 120, and serve a piquante sauce under it (see Sauces), or the marinade, when the fat is taken off; thicken with butter and flour. Note,-Fillet of veal marinated is done the same way. 190. Grenadines of Veal. Cut four cutlets off the neck with the bones; lard them on one side, blanch, as No. 3, and braize, as No, 119, quite tender. When done, glaze them, aş as No. 120, and serve sorrel or mushroom sauce under them, (See Saụces.) 191. Fricandeau Veal. Cut the large muscle out of a leg of veal, flatten and trim it oval or square, lard it over the top, blanch, as No. 3, braize, as No. 119, four hours, till tender enough to cut with a spoon; glaze it as No. 120, and serve BOILING MEATS AND POULTRY. 49 Note.-Lamb and mutton cutlets may be done the same way. 196. Fillet of Veal doubed. (Fillet de Veau à la Doube.) Cut some thick pieces of bacon; rub them in pounded clove, mace, pepper and salt, chopped parsley and onion; then doub, as No. 128, the veal through the mid- dle; put in a soup-pot, with slices of fat bacon under and over; three onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, as No. 1, and half a pint of brown gravy; (No.6.) let it simmer three hours, strain the sauce, and take off the fat. Thicken it with two spoonfuls of thickening, as No. 42. Season with salt and pepper, and the squeeze of a lemon, Glaze the veal over, as No. 120, 197. Sham Cutlets. Form some veal forcemeat, (No. 183.) in the shape of cutlets, egg and crumb, and fry on a saute-pan, as 121, with butter. Serve with herb sauce. (See Sauces.) 198. Stewed Veal and Pease, plain. Cut a breast or neck of veal in pieces ; blanch it, as No. 3; put it on with a pint of broth, two onions, pepper and salt, and one sprig of mint. When it has stewed two hours, put two quarts of young pease, and another sprig of mint; let them stew half an hour longer, then add two spoonfuls of thickening, as No. 42, and serve altogether. 199. Veal Cutlets, glazed. (Cótelette de Veau, glacé.) Cut slices of veal thin; season with salt and pepper ; fry on a saute-pan, as No. 121, with butter; when done, glaze, as No. 120; lay slices of ham, fried, between them on the dish, cut in the same shape as the cutlet: serve tomata or mushroom sauce under. (See Sauces.) Note.-Lamb cutlets the same way. D 50 COQKERY. 200. Blanquet of Veal. Cut some round thin slices of the fillet; when drest, place them in the dish; put half a pint of white sauce, (No. 46.) with a liason, (No. 29.) over them, quite hot: season with a little salt. 201. Veal Cake. (Gáteau de Veau.) Chop three pounds of veal fine, one pound of ham, one pound of fat bacon; mix these ingredients up with five chopped shalots, a spoonful of parsley, mushroom, marjoram and thyme, and a tea-spoonful of pounded allspice and mace together, with one glass of brandy, and four whole eggs. Line a mould with sliced fat bacon; fill it with the mixture; bake it two hours; pour off the fat, and serve it with a brown sauce, as No.43. NoteIn this way all meat cakes are made. 202. Collared Veal, or Galantine. Take the bones and gristle out of a large breast of veal; lay it flat; sprinkle it all over with pepper and salt, and a tea-spoonful of powdered mace; add two table-spoonfuls of chopped onion, parsley, and mush- rooms; boil eight whites of eggs and eight yolks of eggs, coloured with spinach-juice, as No. 22, separate, quite hard; cut eight slices of ham, ditto of fat bacon, and the different hard eggs, the length and breadth of your finger; lay them the cross way of your veal, and fill up the vacancies with forcemeat; (No. 183.) roll it up, beginning at the end; tie it tight in a cloth with tape, and boil it four hours. After it is boiled, tighten the eloth at both ends, and hang it up with a good weight attached to it till cold. Note. It is served cold, cut in slices, with aspic jelly. (See Aspic Jelly, No. 477.) BOILING MEATS AND POULTRY. 51 203. Collared Pig. Take out the bones of a good-sized pig, and proceed just the same as Collared Veal, No. 202, excepting the sweet herbs. Sprinkle it with a spoonful of pounded sage and parsley, and eight shalots chopped. 204. Minced Veal. Cut two pounds of veal that has been drest into small dice; pass off, as No. 47, a spoonful of flour and one ounce of butter, one drachm of pounded mace, a half pint of gravy, and a quarter of a lemon peel, grated, two spoonfuls of eream, and season with pepper and salt. 205 Veal Fricassee. (Fricassée de Veau.) Take four pounds, in a piece, off a leg of veal, with part of the fat; doub it with bacon, through the middle, as No. 138; fry it all over quite brown; put it in a stew-pan with half a pint of broth and a bunch of sweet herbs, as No. 1, with pepper and salt; let it simmer gently two hours; take the fat off, and squeeze half a lemon in the gravy, and serve it together. 206. Loin of Veal Bechamel. Trim and roast a loin of veal, straight; (See Roast- ing, No. 249.); when sufficiently done, cut out a square piece, the whole length, and cut it into thin slices; put half a pint of bechamel sauce, No.45, to it; season it with pepper and salt, and the squeeze of a lemon; return it to the place again on the loin of veal ; cover it over with fried bread crumbs, and serve bechamel sauce (No. 45.) under it. Note.—A fillet of veal may be done precisely the same way. 207. Loin of Veal marinated. Lay the veal in the marinate, as No. 134; bake it in it the same time, two hours and a half; when done, strain D 2 $2 COOKERY. off the marinate sauce, take off the fat, and thicken with two spoonfuls of thickening, as No. 42. Serve it under the veal. 208. Veal Pie, seasoned. Cut two pounds of veal in thin slices; sprinkle them over with chopped onion, parsley and mushroom, a spoonful; a drachm of mace, pepper and salt; put a layer of veal and a layer of forcemeat, (No. 183.) with a few slices of ham, and fill up the pie; cover it with puff paste, and bake it one hour and a half: when done, put a quarter of a pint of brown sauce in it. (No, 43.) Note.-Half a dozen mushrooms, morels, and truffles, may be added. 209. Harrico Veal. Cut six or eight pieces off a breast of veal; fry them brown; add a pint of gravy or broth to stew them, with a bunch of sweet herbs, as No. 1; when stewed two hours, add a dozen of button onions, two carrots, three turnips, cut in shapes. Let these stew till tender, with the veal ; strain the gravy off, take off the fat; thicken it with one ounce of butter, and a spoonful of flour : season with pepper, salt, and a small piece of sugar, as Note, No. 2; let it boil five minutes all together, 210. Mutton Cutlets, plain. Cut and trim twelve cutlets off a neck of mutton; season with pepper and salt; put them on a saute-pan with butter; fry them brown; glaze, as No. 120, and serve under them mashed, or new potatoes, in a sauce. (See Sauces.) 211. Harrico Mutton. Cut ten thick slices off the loin ; flour and fry them brown; season with pepper and salt; put them on with a pint of gravy, two onions, two carrots, one turnip, and BOILING MEATS AND POULTRY. 53 nicha stew till tender. Strain off the gravy, and take off the fat; cut one carrot, one turnip, with a cutter, to fancy; a dozen of small onions boiled tender in broth; thicken the gravy with a spoonful of thickening, No. 42; boil it two minutes, and add the vegetables and cutlets toge- ther, with a little sugar. Venison and lamb are done the same way.. 41 with 120 212. Mutton Cutlets, larded (Cótelette de Mouton, piqué.) Cut a dozen cutlets off the neck; trim them neat; lard them on one side; braize, as No. 119, half a hour; when done, glaze them as No. 120; serve spinach and endive sauce under them. 213. Mutton Cutlets, with Herbs. Cut and trim twelve cutlets off a neck; pass off, as No. 47, a spoonful of chopped onions, mushroom; and parsley ; pour it over the cutlets ; season with salt and pepper; dip them in egg, and crumb them; fry them in a saute-pan with butter, as No. 121 : serve herb or cucumber sauce under them. (See Sauces.) Note.—Lamb cutlets are done the same way. 214. Mutton Cutlets in Cabbage. Cut eight thick cutlets off the loin ; blanch them, as No. 3; put them in a stew-pan, with four quarters of a cabbage, blanched, as No. 3; cover with slices of fat bacon; put a pint of gravy with salt and pepper, and stew them tender; when done, strain off the gravy, take off the fat, and thicken the sauce with a spoonful of flour, and pour it over the mutton and cabbage. Note.-Lamb cutlets are done the same way. 215. Mutton Pie, with Cabbage. Raise a crust with raised paste; (No. 332.) blanch ten slices of mutton, and one of cabbage, cut in quar- 2010 . -P27 and ce. 76111 Tith and 54 COOKERY. ters, as No. 3; lay a layer of mutton and one of cabbage, seasoned with salt and pepper, till the pie is full; cover with slices of fat bacon and crust; bake it tender two hours; when done, add half a pint of brown sauce. (No. 43.) 216. Fillet of Mutton larded. Take the bone out of a loin of mutton; lard it all over the lean part; braize it, as No. 119, two hours; glaze it, as No. 120; serve cucumber or endive sauce under it. (See Sauces.) 217. Devonshire Squab Pie. Put a layer of slices of mutton off the loin, with a layer of sliced onions and apples; season with salt and pepper and a spoonful of sugar; repeat this till the dish is full; put a puff paste crust over it; bake it one hour and a half; when done, pour off the fat: it does not want any gravy. 218. Sheeps' Tongues. Blanch, as No. 3, and skin eight sheeps' tongues ; trim neat, and put them on in a braize, as No. 119; when tender, glaze them, and serve a sauce robert under them. (See Sauces.) Note.-Salted mutton tongues may be done the same way, and served with cabbage or endive sauce, (See Sauces.) 219. Mutton Collops. Take the lean of a loin of mutton; cut it in thin slices, the size of a crown piece; season them with salt and pepper, and fry on a saute-pan, as No. 121, with butter, and glaze, as No. 120. Cut some slices of potatoes of the same size with the mutton, and fry them; place a collop of mutton and potatoe, alternately, round the dish, and put a quarter of a pint of white sauce, as No. 45, in the middle of it. BOILING MEATS AND POULTRY. 55 220. China Chillo. Mince the meat of a loin of mutton, undrest, with half a pound of the fat; add a large spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of pepper, two large onions cut in dice, a pint of green pease, six cucumbers cut in dice, one lettuce, a sprig of thyme, a quarter of a pound of butter, and four spoonfuls of water; let all stew to- gether three hours, and serve it up in the middle of a dish of plain boiled rice. Note.—This may be made with celery and asparagus instead of pease. 221. Mutton Pie. Season with salt and pepper slices of mutton off the leg or loin ; fill the dish and cover it with puff paste; bake it one hour and a half; when baked, add some gravy, seasoned. Note.--All plain pies are done the same way. 222. Scotch Sheep's Head Broth. Burn the wool off a sheep's head with a hot iron, then scald and scrape it clean; split and take out the brains; boil it with three quarts of water, two onions and one carrot, two turnips, two ounces of Scotch barley, and a small cabbage cut in pieces, till quite tender; season with pepper and salt, and serve it all together in a tureen, 223. Larded Sheeps' Tongues. Scald and skin eight tongues ; lard them all over the top; braize, as No. 119, and glaze, as 120. Serve small onion sauce under them. (See Sauces.) 224. Breast of Mutton broiled. Blanch, as No. 3; braize, as No. 119, very tender; glaze it, as No. 120; crumb with fried crumbs, and 56 COOKERY. a N 1 կ mark it with a hot iron across, and serve a sharp mushroom sauce under it. (See Sauces.) Note.--Breast of lamb may be done the same way 225. Lamb's Head and a Mince. Split and scald the head; braize it, as No. 119; glaze it, as No. 120; crumb it with fried crumbs of bread; boil the heart, lights and brains, and a small piece of liver; mince it fine; pass off, as No. 47, a spoonful of parsley, one drachm of pounded mace, and half a tea-cupful of flour; add a pint of gravy to make a thick sauce; put in the mince, and season with salt and pepper, and the squeeze of a lemon. Serve the head on it, with a little fried liver round. 226. Lamb's Feet, and Mushrooms. Scald and bone the feet; put in some forcemeat, as No. 183 ; braize them, as No. 119, tender; serve mushroom sauce (See Sauces.) under them. Note.-The ears may be done the same way. 227. Leg of Lamb to boil. Put the leg of lamb in water, to soak the blood out, one hour; then put it on in boiling water, (See Boiling, 165.) with two ounces of chopped suet, three slices of lemon, and a slice of bread. Let it boil gently one hour and a quarter, skimming it frequently; serve under it French beans, spinach, or white cucumber sauce. 228. Leg of Lamb, Spanish; or Gijot d’Agneau à l'Espanol. Lard the top of a leg of lamb; cut like a haunch of venison, with part of the loin; and serve under it the Spanish sauce. (See Sauces.) 229. Shoulder of Lamb boned and larded. Bone a shoulder of lamb; lard it over the top; fill BOILING MEATS AND POULTRY. 57 it with force meat, (No. 183.) sew it up in the shape of a pear; braize it, as No. 119, two hours; glaze it, as No. 120; serve cucumber or ragout sauce under it, (See Sauces.) 230. Lamb's Fry: Cut it in thin slices, seasoned with pepper and salt; flour; fry in the frying-pan, and serve fried parsley with it. Note.--It is frequently served with the sauce thick- ened. Venison and pork fries are done in the same way. 231. Pork Cutlets, plain. Cut twelve cutlets off the neck; trim them neatly; season with pepper and salt; dip them in melted butter, and cover with crumbs of bread; fry them on a saute- pan, as No. 121, and serve tomata, or sauce robert, under them; or stewed red cabbage. 232. Pork Cutlets, broiled. Cut them off the loin, and trim them neatly, (See Broiling, No. 261.) till perfectly done; rub a piece of butter over them, and season with pepper and salt. Note.-Beef steaks and mutton chops are done the same way. 233. Fillet of Pork, braized. Cut the fillet off the neck without bones; take the skin off and braize it, as No. 119, one hour and a half; glaze, as No. 120, and serve tomata sauce or sauer kraut under it. 234. Pig's Feet. Boil four fresh or salted large pig's feet quite ten- der; (See Boiling, 165.) take out the large bones; glaze, as No. 120, and crumb them with fried crumbs of bread; serve under them sauce robert, with the pig's D 5 58 COOKERY. ears boiled and cut in it; or mustard or tomata sauce. (See Sauces.) 235. Pig's Ears. Boil them tender three hours; glaze them as No. 120,; and serve mustard or horseradish sauce. (See Sauces.) 236. Pork Pie. Season the slices of pork with a tea-spoonful of powdered sage, salt and pepper; fill the pie up, and cover it with paste; when baked pour off the fat, and add some gravy, seasoned. Note.-Raised pork pie is made the same way. 237. Pig's Petit-Toes. Boil the heart, lights, feet and liver, one hour; mince all but the feet; dress the mince the same as the lamb's head minced, No. 225; serve the feet on the top with the sippets. 238. Sausage Meat. Take the fat and lean of the chine of pork, two parts lean, one part fat; chop it fine, and to twelve pounds of sausage-meat take three spoonfuls of allspice ground, a spoonful of pounded sage, ditto of thyme, pepper, one ounce, and salt three ounces; mix it all well to- gether; fill the skins and hang them in a dry place. Note. The skins of the guts are to be turned on a stick, and well scraped and washed in several waters, and kept in salt and water two hours before filling. 239. Sausages and Red Cabbage. Prick the sausages well over with a fork; fry them in fat gently; dry them in a cloth; and serve red cab- bage or sauer kraut under them. BOILING MEATS AND POULTRY. 59 240 Sausages and Applés. Flatten some sausage-meat round in cakes, the size of a crown piece; four it and fry it on a saute-pan, with butter; slice some large apples, the same size; take out the cores and fry them; put a slice of apple and sausage alternately round the dish; serve with a remoulade sauce. (See Sauces.) 241. Black Puddings. Stir three quarts of blood well, with a spoonful of salt, till cold, and strain it through a sieve; add three pounds of the inside fat of the pig, cut in small squares, a quart of Emden groats, boiled soft in a cloth; stir these into it by degrees, with the fat; then add half a pint of cream, a pint of bread crumbs, one ounce of ground allspice, three table spoonfuls of pounded sage, one ditto of pounded thyme, with one ounce of pepper, and one ounce of salt; when stuffed in the skins, prick and boil them gently twenty minutes; take care they do not break; when done, cover over with clean wheat straw. Note.--It is necessary to take the largest skins of the bacon hog for this use; and when wanted for table, broil or bake them crisp. 242. Pig's Head Cold. Split and boil a pig's head, with the tongue, three hours, till quite tender; take out all the bones, lay them flat on a cloth to join; season it all over, with one ounce of pepper, two ounces of salt, and half an ounce of allspice ground; roll it up, and tie in the cloth tight, while hot, with tape; put on it a good weight, and let it stand till cold. 243. Mock Brawn. Take the maw of a large hog, cleanse it well; fill and stuff it with one pig's cheek, three pigs' tongues, 60 COOKERY. the gristle of three neat's feet boiled, four pigs' ears, two pound of lean, and two pound of fat of pork; all cut in large square pieces, with the skin of the pork; season it with one ounce of ground allspice, two ounces of pepper, and a quarter of a pound of salt; when stuffed, roll it up in a cloth, and tie it tight with tape; let it boil four hours, and when done tighten the cloth, and hang it with a large weight attached to it till cold; it may be put in a round press, the size of brawn. Note. It may be kept in brawn pickle any length of time. (See Brawn Pickle.) 243.* Brawn Pickle. Two quarts of bran put into two gallons of pump water, and boiled two hours, with a handful of bay salt; then strain through a sieve into a pan, sufficiently large to contain a collar of brawn, in which it may be kept till used. Note.-Keep both real and mock brawn constantly in this pickle, except when using. 244. Liver Puddings. Chop a raw pig's liver fine, with one pound of pork, fat; put a spoonful of chopped onions to it; season with half an ounce of salt, and half an ounce of pepper ; fill the large skins with it, and boil them twenty minutes; they are eaten either hot or cold. Note. This may also be made of calf's liver. 245. German Sausages. Pickle six pounds of pork, with saltpetre and com- mon salt, for a fortnight, two parts lean, and one of fat; chop it fine, and season with one ounce of pepper, and one ounce of allspice ground; stuff it in skins, hang it in a smoky room for a week; when wanted boil them for half an hour. 62 COOKERY. All joints of meat and large poultry to be done neatly should be papered over, and kept basted with dripping or butter during the roasting. Poultry and game should be singed when put to the fire; and when nearly done, just before taking off the spit, should be frothed up; which is done by taking off the paper, and basting with butter, then dredging them over with flour, and basting them once more with butter, suffering them to turn three or four times round, after they are done fit to dish up. As a reference, I shall note the time necessary to roast most articles; and it will be easy to ascertain the time required for a larger or a smaller joint: Sirloins of beef, of sixteen pounds weight, four hours. Ribs ditto, of sixteen ditto, three hours and half., Rump ditto, of sixteen ditto, four hours. Fillet of veal, of twelve ditto, three hours and half. Loin of ditto, of ten ditto, two and half. Breast of Veal, of ten ditto, two hours. Neck of ditto, of eight ditto, two hours. Shoulder of ditto, of ten ditto, two hours and half. Haunch of venison, from three to four hours. Neck of ditto, from two to three hours, Ox heart, two hours and a half. Saddle of mutton, of twelve pounds, two hours and half. Leg of mutton, of ten ditto, two hours and half. Shoulder of ditto, of ten ditto, two hours. Loin of ditto, of eight ditto, two hours. Neck of ditto, of six ditto, one hour and half. Leg of lamb, of six ditto, one hour and half. Loin of ditto, of four ditto, one hour. Neck of ditto, of three ditto, three quarters of an hour. Haunch of ditto, of nine ditto, one hour and half. Shoulder of ditto, one hour. Saddle of ditto, one hour and a half, ROASTING MEATS AND POULTRY. 63 Leg of pork, of eight pounds, two hours and half. Loin of ditto, of seven ditto, two hours. Pig, one hour and a quarter to one hour and half. Turkey, small, an hour to an hour and half. Turkey, large, from two hours to two hours and half. Goose, one hour and a quarter. Green Goose, three quarters of an hour. Hare, an hour. Duck, three quarters of an hour. Leveret, half an hour. Pheasant, three quarters of an hour. Partridge, half an hour. Large Fowl, one hour. Chickens, from one quarter of an hour to three quarters. Rabbits, three quarters of an hour. Quails, twenty minutes, with vine leaves and bacon over them. Woodcocks, twenty minutes. Larks, eight minutes, with vine leaves and bacon. Wheatears, seven minutes, with ditto. Wild duck, half an hour. Teal, twenty minutes. Widgeon, twenty-five minutes. Pigeon, twenty minutes. Black game, one hour. Moor game, half an hour. Plovers, twenty-five minutes. Fieldfares, fifteen minutes. A plate is annexed, showing the neatest way of trussing poultry, game, &c. and which is particularly to be noticed. 250. Neck of Venison marinated. Lay the neck of venison in the marinate, as No. 134, then roast or bake it with crust over ; strain, take off ROASTING MEATS AND POULTRY. 65 piece of bread; let them boil gently one hour : serve any white sauce under. (See Sauces.) Note.-Celery, mushroom, chervil, and taragon, are generally used. Chickens boiled the same way, excepting the time, (See Boiling.), 255. Fowls to braize. Blanch the fowls, as No. 3, put them in a braize as No. 119, for one hour; glaze them as No. 120, and serve mushroom or ragout sauce under them. (See Sauces.) Note.-Chickens are braized the same way as fowls, 256. Fowls larded and stuffed. Bone the fowl, and lard the breast, fill up the cavity with forcemeat as No. 183 ; some slices of lean and fat of ham, with eight truffles that have been boiled ; tie it up in its proper shape, blanch as No. 3, put in a braize, as No. 119, and stew it two hours. When done glaze it, as No. 120, and serve brown, ragout, or mush- (See Sauces.) room sauce. 257. Fowls to roast. Singe them when put down, let them roast three- quarters of an hour. Baste with butter, and froth up; (See Roasting, No. 249.) serve egg or bread sauce. (See Sauces.) Chickens the same, excepting time. . 258. Fillets of Fowls larded. Cut the fillets off the breast with the wing, lard them all over ; braize them, as No. 119, half an hour ; glaze, as No. 120; serve them with mushroom, pease, or as- paragus sauce. (See Sauces.) 66 COOKERY. 259. Fricassee Fowls, brown. Cut the fowl into joints, and fry it; put half a pint of gravy, (No. 6.) one onion, twelve mushrooms, and a blade of mace; let it stew till tender; strain and take the onion out; thicken with a spoonful of thickening, as No. 42; season with pepper, salt, and juice of half a lemon. Note.-Fricassee chickens and partridges the same way. 260. Fricassee Fowls, white. Blanch, as No. 3, the joints of a fowl; put them in a stew-pan, with a spoonful of chopped mushroom and onion together; a drachm of pounded mace, two ounces of butter, and two spoonfuls of white gravy or simmer them till done tender; season with pepper and salt; add half a pint of cream, with the yolks of four eggs mixed in it; let it thicken over the fire gently without boiling, and add the squeeze of half a lemon, Note.-Chickens and rabbits done the same way. broth; BROILING. Have a very clear fire, throw a sprinkle of salt on it; chalk the gridiron all over if for fish, or grease it with fat bacon if for meat; let the article broil till done on one side, then turn it with the tongs (not with the fork, as it lets the gravy out) till perfectly done ; rub a little butter over it with pepper and salt. Note.—Mutton and venison chops ought frequently to be turned in the broiling. 261. Fowl to broil. Truss the fowl for boiling; split it down the back; and flatten it; rub butter over, and broil it gently; when done sprinkle with pepper and salt, and serve * MADE DISHES. 67 mushroom sauce under it; or brown sauce, as No. 43, with pickled mushrooms in it. Chickens are broiled in the same way. 262. Currie of Fowl. Cut the fowl in joints, and fry them; fry two onions chopped, and add to the fowl, with a quarter of a pint of gravy, (No. 6.) and two spoonfuls of currie powder; let it stew gently three quarters of an hour, thicken it with a spoonful of butter and four, mixed; season with lemon-juice, Cayenne pepper, and salt. Note.-Serve rice round the dish, boiled as No. 263. 263. Rice boiled for Curries. Boil half a pound of rice in four quarts of water twelve minutes ; strain and wash it; when boiled, put it on a sieve to dry, in a warm place; toss it up with two forks frequently, to make it light. 264. Fowl to currie another way. Cut a fowl or rabbit in joints, pour over it a pint of good cream, and the juice of a large lemon, three large onions cut in slices, and fried in butter till tender; fry a spoonful of turmeric powder in butter until the froth is gone; then put all together in a stew-pan, with two spoonfuls of good gravy, and let it boil till done ; sea- son with Cayenne pepper and salt, and serve it in the middle of rice, boiled as directed No. 263. cessary to let the fowl remain in the cream and lemon an hour before using it, Note.—Lobster, chicken, meat, or fish, may be curried the same way. 265. Chickens fried in Batter. Lay the chickens, cut in joints, in a marinate, for one hour, as No. 134; season with salt and pep- per; dip the pieces in batter, as directed No. 266, and fry them; serve fried parsley with them. It is ne- 68 COOKERY. 266. Batter for frying Meats, Poultry, &c. Mix half a pound of flour, and a quarter of a pint of mild ale, or small beer, with two eggs, quite thick; it must not run off the meat when dipped in it. 267. Fowl minced. Mince a fowl, that has been dressed, in small pieces ; put half a pint of white sauce, as No. 45, to it, or pass off a spoonful of flour, as No. 47, with one ounce of butter; add a quarter of a pint of white gravy, as No. 7, and a quarter of a pint of cream; season with salt and pepper. Note.—The legs may be broiled and served on it. (See Broiling.) 268. Chicken Pie. Cut it in joints, blanch, as No. 3, and season it with pepper and salt; a spoonful of chopped mush- room, parsley and onion, together; add a few slices of bacon or ham; cover it with puff paste; (No. 329.) when done fill up with gravy, (No. 6.) with a few mushrooms boiled in it. 269. Chicken Pie, another way. Cut it in joints, blanch, as No. 3, season with pep- per and salt, add a sweetbread boiled, with six yolks of eggs boiled hard; cover with puff paste; (No. 329.) when baked put in half a pint of gravy. (No. 6.) 270. Boudin à la Richelieu. Take the breast of a large fowl undressed, with a quarter of a pound of fat bacon, pound it well to- ther; add the crumb of a French roll, soaked in boil- ing cream; mix all this with a spoonful of chopped onion, ditto of mushroom, and a drachm of pounded mace; rub it all through a sieve; add the whites of four eggs, beat up to a strong froth; put it in moulds tur MADE DISHES. 69 buttered, and boil it, standing in the water for half an hour; serve it with white sauce. (No. 45.) 271. Cutlets for Fowl. Take the meat off a large fowl, chop and pound it fine, flatten it out with a little butter or sweet oil, and cut it in the shape of a cutlet; season with pepper and salt; take some of the rib-bones out of the fowi separ- ately, and put one in each of the cutlets; put them on a saute-pan, as No. 121, and fry with butter; glaze them, as No. 120; serve mushroom, celery, or endive sauce under them. 272, Fowl and Rice. See Knuckle of Veal, No. 36. 273. Chickens and Cauliflower. Three small chickens boiled,(See Boiling.) or braized, as No. 119; when done, glaze, as No. 120; serve two pieces of bacon, boiled tender, between each chicken ; white cauliflower or French bean sauce under it. (See Sauces.) 274. Spanish Fowl, or Poulard à l'Espagnol, Lard a large fowl; braize it, as No. 119, two hours; glaze it when done, as 120, and serve Spanish sauce under it. (See Sauces.) 275. Boiled Rabbits. Put them in boiling water, the same as boiled fowl; (See Boiling, No. 165.) let them boil three quarters of an hour; serve onion, mushroom, or parsley sauce (See Sauces.) over them. 276. Fillets of Rabbit larded, Cut the whole length of the fillet, along the back, with the hind legs to it; lard and braize them, as No.. MADE DISHES. 71 281. Pigeon (Compote). Fill six pigeons with forcemeat; (No. 183.) blanch, ás No. 3: put them on with half a pint of gravy; (No. 6.) one onion, two dozen of mushrooms, one slice of lemon, four cloves, and cover with slices of fat bacon; let them stew till tender; strain the gravy, take off the fat, and thicken with a spoonful of thickening as No. 42, and put one dozen of forcemeat balls boiled, four hard yolks of eggs, and the mushrooms; season with salt and pepper, the squeeze of a lemon, and serve all together. Note.--This may be served in a standing pie. 282, Roast Pigeons. Chop two parts of parsley, mix it with one part but ter, one part crumbs of bread, and pepper and salt; ştuff the pigeons, and roast them; (See Roasting, No. 249.) serve gravy or parsley, and butter uuder them. Note.- Pigeons larded, may be done in the same way. 283. Pigeons braized. Lard the pigeons and stuff them with forcemeat, No. 183; put them in a braze, as No 119, for half an hour; when done, glaze them, as No. 120; serve mush- room sauce under them. (See Sauces.) 284. Pigeon Pie. Stuff the inside of six pigeons, the same as for roast- ing, No. 282; season with pepper and salt, and lay a. rump steak at the bottom of the dish; put six boiled yolks of eggs, and half a pound of forcemeat (No. 183.) in with it; cover with puff paste, (No. 329.) and bake one hour; put some gravy (No. 6.) in it when done, and mark with the legs of the pigeon. 285. Pigeons and Cabbage. Truss six pigeons, with the legs drawn in ; scald see i 72 COOKERY. them, and put some forcemeat (No. 183.) in the inside, with pepper and salt; blanch, as No. 3; cut cabbages in quarters, put them in a stew-pan, with slices of fat; bacon at the top and bottom, with half a pint of gravy (No. 6.) let them stew till tender; strain and take off the fat; thicken with thickening as No. 42, and pour over the pigeons and cabbage. Note.-Pieces of bacon may be served with them, in imitation of partridges and cabbage. 286. Pigeon Cutlets. Cut the wings off six pigeons, with the breast adher- ing to them; flatten them out, and trim in the shape of a cutlet; pass off as No. 47. a spoonful of chopped onion, parsley, and mushroom, and two ounces of but- ter, and pour over them pepper and salt; dip them in egg, and crumb them : fry on the saute-pan, as No. 121, with butter, some herb or plain sauce under them. (See Sauces.) 287. Duck to stew. Truss a duck with the legs drawn in; blanch as No. 3, and braize as No. 119, three-quarters of an hour; when done, glaze as No. 120; serve with stewed pease, mashed turnips or onion sauce under it. (See Sauces.) 288. Roast Duck. See Roasting, No. 249. Put a sage and onion stuff- ing, No. 289. ; roast it three-quarters of an hour, and send gravy in the dish. 289. Sage and Onion Stuffing. Two parts of chopped onion, two parts bread crumbs, three parts butter, one part pounded sage, pepper, and salt; mix all together. Note. This stuffing is in general used for pork and geese, MADE DISHES. 73 1 290. Hashed Duck. Pass off, as No. 47, a spoonful of flour, with one ounce of butter, half a pint of gravy, (No. 6.) and a little of the stuffing of the duck that has been dressed; sea- son with pepper and salt, and the juice of half a lemon; add the duck, cut in joints, and warm it in the sauce. 291. Salmi of Wild Duck. Cut in small pieces the meat of a roast wild duck, put the bones in a stew-pan, with one chopped onion, a spoonful of parsley, and one ounce of butter; pass them off, as No. 47; add a spoonful of flour, a pint of gravy, and one glass of port wine ; let it boil ten mi- nutes ; strain this to the duck, and just warm it in the same; season with salt, and Cayenne pepper, and the juice of half a lemon. Note.--In this way all salmies of game are made. 292. Wild Ducks to roast. These may be dressed exactly the same as the tame ducks, except that no stuffing is required, and not to roast so long. (See Roasting, No. 249.) Note.-When sent to table the breast should be sliced, and the squeeze of a Seville orange put over ity with Cayenne pepper, and salt. 293. Goose to roast. Stuff it with sage and onion stuffing, as No. 289; singe and roast it, as No. 249, one hour ; serve gravy in the dish, with apple sauce in a boat. Note--Peel and cut six apples in quarters ; take out the cores ; put them on with one ounce of butter, two spoonfuls of water, and boil till tender; rub them through a sieve. 294. Goose Pie. Take the bones out of two geese, and two fowls; boil one ox tongue; cut in slices the size of your finger, 74 COOKERY. with two pounds of fat bacon; lay the geese flat, and season with a spoonful of chopped onion, marjoram. thyme, mushrooms, and parsley; lay the slices of tongue with the fat bacon on them, with forcemeat, as No. 183, in the vacancies; season with salt, pepper, allspice, and mace, a spoonful, lay the fowls on it; roll up in the shape of a goose, and tie tight with tape. Blanch, as No. 3, put it in a braize, as No. 119, with the bones of the goose and two quarts of strong gravy ; (No. 6.) let it boil five hours. Raise a pie-crust, (No.332.) to hold it; fill it with bran; bake till coloured a fine brown. When cold take out the bran, and put the cold goose in it free from fat, with the gravy it was boiled in, which will be a strong jelly; put the clearest over the top of the pie. If forcemeat is preferred, a little can be braized with it; and when cold rub through a sieve, and put round the sides of the goose in the pie, quite smooth. 295. Giblet Pie. Blanch the giblets, as No. 3; cut them in pieces ; put them in a stew-pan with one pint of gravy, (No. 6.) two cloves, half a lemon-peel, and one onion; stew them two hours; when cold make a pie; cover with puff paste, (No. 329.) and put the gravy they were stewed in with them. Bake till the crust is done; add more gravy, season with salt and pepper. 296. Turkey to roast. Fill the breast of a turkey with veal stuffing, as No. 279, paper it over, and roast, (See Roasting, No. 249.) and froth it up; serve up the gravy and bread sauce in a boat. The gizzard and liver must be roasted with it. 297. Roast Turkey, larded. Lard the breast of a turkey all over ; stuff it with veal forcemeat; (No. 183.) roast it; (See Roasting, MADE DISHES. 75 No. 249.) serve a mushroom or ragout sauce under its (See Sauces.) 298. Turkey to braize. See large Fowl, No. 255. 299. Spanish Turkey (Dindon à l'Espagnol). Proceed as No. 297; roast it, as No. 249; serve the Spanish sauce under it. (See Sauces.) 300. Turkey larded and stuffed. See Fowls, No. 256. 301. Turkey in Jelly. Take the bones out of the turkey; stuff it with force- meat, (No. 183.) put two dozen truffles, two dozen of mushrooms in it; lard it through with fat bacon, and tie it up in the shape ; put it in a pan just large enough to hold it, with braize, as No. 119, and two quarts of strong gravy; (No. 6.) stew it three hours, till tender enough to pass a skewer through it easily; let it get cold; take off the fat; serve it in a dish with a jelly round, and slices of lemon. Note. It may be done without boning the turkey. A large fowl may be done the same way. 302. Boiled Turkey. Stuff it with veal stuffing ; (No. 279.) put the liver and gizzard under the pinion; put it in boiling water, with a quarter of a pound of mutton or beef suet, chopped; four slices of lemon, and a piece of bread. Let it boil gently; (See Boiling, No. 165.) serve celery, oyster, or white sauce over it. (See Sauces.) 303. Blanquet of Turkey. Cut the breast of a turkey that has been dressed in thin slices ; lay them in a dish ; boil half a pint of white sauce; No. 45. add a liason, as No. 29, to it; E 2 76 COOKERY. season with salt, and with the squeeze of half a lemon; pour it over the turkey quite hot. 304. Minced Turkey. See Minced Beef, No. 148. Serve poached eggs on it; or the legs broiled and well seasoned. (See Broil- ing, No. 261.) 305. Turkey with Truffles. Put two dozen of truffles in the forcemeat; (No. 183.) fill the breast of the turkey with it, and let it remain in the turkey a week before using. Roast it as directed, No. 249; serve truffle sauce under it. (See Sauces.) Note.-Pheasant may be done the same way. 306. Roast Hare. Lard the back; stuff it with veal stuffing, No. 279; and roast; (See Roasting, No. 249.) thicken some gravy, (No. 6.) with butter and flour; and serve warm currant jelly with it. 307. Hashed Hare, Proceed the same way, as hashed beef, (No. 149.) adding two glasses of port wine to it. 308. Hare Pie. Take the bones out of a hare; season it with a table- spoonful of chopped onion, parsley and mushroom, pepper and salt; put one dozen slices of fat bacon and lean ham in the inside; fill up with forcemeat; (No. 183.) tie with a tape, put it in a braize, as No. 119, with three pints of gravy, (No. 6.) and half a pint of white wine; let it stew two hours and a half; when cold put it in a crust, the same as goose pie, (No. 294.) and cover it with the jelly it was boiled in. 309. Jugged Hare. Cut a hare in joints, put it in a stew-pan, with three Na 1\2. MADE DISHES. 77 pints of gravy, (No. 6.) two onions, one carrot, and a bunch of sweet herbs, as No. 1; with pepper and salt, and a tea-spoonful of allspice; a pint of port wine, a tea-cupful of ketchup, and half a lemon-peel ; put it in the oven to bake three hours, covered up; when done tender, strain off the gravy, thicken with two spoonfuls of thickening; (No. 42.) serve all together in a tureen. Note.—The onion, carrot, bunch of herbs, and le- mon-peel must be taken out. 310. Timball of Macaroni. Boil one pound of macaroni tender, in two quarts of milk and water, and a quarter of a pound of butter; when tender, dry it with a cloth, line a mould with slices of fat bacon, mix a couple of whole eggs, well beat up with the macaroni, and some pepper and salt; put some in the mould, and a ragout of sweetbreads in the mid- dle; fill up with macaroni, and bake or boil it two hours, standing in a pan with water, so as not to boil in it; serve it with white or brown sauce, and take the bacon off. (See Sauces.) 311. Casserole of Rice. Boil one pound of rice tender, with one quart of milk and a quarter of a pound of butter; let it come to a stiff paste, stirring it frequently over a slow fire; form this paste in a mould, or on a dish, leaving a hole in the middle for a ragout of any sort. If wanted brown, bake it in a mould; when done take out the inside sufficiently to admit the ragout. Note.—Palates, sweetbreads, ragouts of fricassee chicken, may be served in it. 312. Vol-au-Vent, with Ragout or Puff Paste Patty. Cut a large oval in light puff paste, one inch and half thick, eight inches long, by five broad; bake it 78 COOKERY. and take out the inside, but mark where you mean to take it out; make another not quite so large, to go at top; when baked, take the inside out from the bottom, put your ragout or fricassee in the middle; put on the cover. Note.-It may be cut in any shape, according to the size of the dish; and any made dish of fish or compote may be served in it. 313. Meat Tart. Chop two pounds of beef, veal, game, or chicken, fine: season with pepper and salt, and a spoonful of chopped onion, ditto of mushroom, end ditto of pars- ley; add half a pound of fat bacon, chopped, mix it together, and line a tart-pan with puff paste, (No. 329.) and put the mixture in; cover it over with strips of puff paste, and bake it one hour; when done, pour a little brown sauce over it, as No. 43. Note.--They may be made the size of mince pies, and covered the same. 314. Chartreuse of Roots.. Blanch, as No. 3, three dozen pieces of carrots, three dozen pieces of turnips, cut with a cutter; (See Plate, No. 3.) boil two dozen of button onions, all of a size, have a good quantity of spinach boiled and chopped; with a dozen of asparagus heads, and one cauliflower; line the mould with thin slices of fat bacon; put the roots round the bottom according to fancy; likewise at the sides; press in the spinage all over the other roots, and cover that with forcemeat; (No. 183.) put a ragout of sweetbreads in the middle; fill all up with vegetables, and boil it one hour: turn it out of the mould, take off the bacon, garnish the top with a flower, cut out of a carrot or turnip; pour brown sauce, (No. 43.) under it. Note. To boil, it must stand in a stew-pan, with a MADE DISHES. 79 little water, not to boil over the mould; or it may be baked the same time. 315. Pheasant to boil. Truss the pheasant to boil, the same as a turkey; stuff the breast with veal stuffing, as No. 279; put it in hot water, with two ounces of mutton suet, chopped and boiled; (See Boiling, No. 165.) serve celery or oyster sauce over it. (See Sauces.) Note.-Partridges may be boiled and served the same way. 316. Pheasants to roast. Lard the breast of a pheasant all over; roast it, as (See Roasting.) No. 249; serve it with gravy and bread sauce in a boat. 317. Pheasant Pie. Take out the bones of a pheasant, and fill it up with six slices of ham, six ditto of fat bacon, and sufficient forcemeat, as No. 183, as will make it in its proper form; blanch, as No. 3, and braize, as No. 119; when stewed for an hour and a half, put it in a raised pie crust, (No. 332.) of the size; pour over it mushroom, truffle, or ragout sauce. (See Sauces.) Note.-Partridge pie may be done the same. 318. Partridge and Cabbage, or Perdrix au Choux. Truss four partridges for boiling; put forcemeat, (No. 183.) inside; blanch, as No. 3, with them two cab- bages, cut in quarters, without the stalk; put in a braize, as No. 119, with three pieces of bacon, cut square, the size of a card, and one pint and a half of gravy; (No. 6.) stew one hour; take out the partridge, cabbage and bacon; squeeze the cabbage dry in a cloth, cut it in four lengths; place it all together with the part- ridges in the dish; thicken the sauce with a spoonful of thickening; (No, 42.) season and pour it over them. 80 COOKERY. 319. Partridges larded. See Pheasants, No. 316. Partridges are done in every way similar to pheasants. 320. Partridge Pie (Pattée Peregord). Truss eight partridges for boiling; season the insides with salt, pepper, mace, and allspice, pounded; pound the livers of the partridges with two pounds of force- meat, as No. 183, fill the inside of the partridges with it, and some green truffles sliced; line a round earthen pot with slices of fat bacon; lay some of the force- meat at bottom; with plenty of truffles'; put the par- tridges in, and fill up the vacancy with forcemeat and truffles; put half a pint of gravy (No. 6.) in it; cover over with fat bacon, and bake it two hours; when done fill the pan up with boiling hog's lard, and let it stand to cool. 321. Potted Partridges. Truss them as for boiling; season inside with pep- per, salt, and whole pepper; place them in a stew-pan, lined with slices of lean ham; put a large bunch of thyme in it, and a handful of whole pepper and all- spice; cover over with slices of ham; put a pint of water to them ; paste the cover of the stew-pan all round, and let nem stew gently two hours; after re- maining in the pan till cold, put them separately in pots, with a few whole peppercorns in each; pour boiling clarified butter to cover them, and fill up. "Tie the pots over with bladders when cold; keep them in a cool place. 322. Moor Game. Roast them half an hour; (See Roasting, No. 249.) serve fried bread crumbs; bread sauce and sliced w onions, in a little wat in the sauce-boat. Note.-Moor game are served in made dishes exactly as other game. (See Pheasants.) PASTRY. 81 323. Roast Woodcocks. Roast them twenty minutes; let the trail drop out on a plate, as it roasts; send the woodcocks on a toast, buttered, with the trail spread on it, and some melted butter poured over it quite hot ; send gravy in a boat. 324. Woodcock Pie. Take the trail and pound it with the forcemeat; (No.' 183.) put twelve mushrooms, twelve truffles in slices, in the pie; cover with puff paste, (No. 329.) and bake it three quarters of an hour; when done put gravy or brown sauce, as No. 43, in it, well seasoned. be made in a standing crust. It may 325. Larks to roast. Egg and crumb the larks when spitted ; roast them ten minutes; serve them on fried crumbs of bread; or they may be roasted with vine leaves and bacon. 326. Lark Pie. Season the larks with pepper and salt; fill with forces meat, as No. 183; put them in a raişed paste, (No, 332.) with forcemeat under and over; bake them one hour; and put brown sauce (No. 43.) in the pie when done. 327. Roasted Wheatears. Tie a vine leaf, with a small piece of bacon, over the breast, roast them seven minutes, and serve fried crumbs under them, PASTRY. 328. As it is impossible to give all the varieties of Pastry which can be made, I have remarked those the E 5 82 COOKERT easiest to accomplish; and have introduced the patterns of pastry cutters, which may be formed in several ways, as shown in the Pastry Plates, Nos. 1, 2, and 3, which, on a reference, will be found to correspond with the cutters specified; and which will be very useful in other ways of ornamenting dishes, In remarking of pastry in general, the principal ob- ject is to have it light, without being greasy; and well baked, of a fine colour, without being burnt; as the least particle being so gives it a most disagreeable flavour, and spoils it. Therefore to bake well, it must be attended to; as it is usually said, when the paste is burnt, the oven has spoiled it : which plainly shows that it should not be left to itself. I would advise in general a moderately heated oven, as few things require a burning one; and with care and attention, turning the things frequently, and regu- lating the heat according to circumstances, little da- mage can happen. All puff paste articles require a brisk oven ; pies, tarts, puddings, and biscuits, a moderate one; cakes, which require a long time baking, a cool one. Meats of all description a hot oven, and to be turned frequently. 329. Puff Paste, light. To make light puff paste it only requires attention in the rolling out; if it should be too light, it may be rolled out once or twice more than mentioned ; as it principally relies on the folding it to rise even and high. I shall give the readiest way of making it, as there are several ; but the shortest, I have always found to answer the best. To a pound of good stiff butter (free from water) take one pound of flour; break and rub half the butter in the flour, wet it into a paste with a quarter of a pint of water, the juice of one lemon, and the yolk of PASTRY. 83 one egg beat up with it; care must be taken not to make it too soft, but hard enough to roll out the thickness of a crown piece; lay the remainder of the butter in thin slices all over ; fold it up, beginning at top and bottom to the middle, in five or six folds ; roll it out as thin as at first, brushing off the four be- fore folding up; when rolled out, and folded three times this way, try a piece in the oven; if so light that it falls over, roll it out once or twice more. The piece tried should not be thicker than a crown piece; if it rises straight, it has been folded even ; if not, the ends have not been laid straight. This paste is used for all sorts of pies, patties, vol-au-vent, and light pastry. 330. Tart Paste. Rub half a pound of butter in one pound of four ; wet it with water into a stiff paste; roll it out as thin as a crown piece three times. Note.-This paste is to cover fruit tarts in dishes. 331. Biscuit Paste for Tarts. One pound of flour, a quarter of a pound of sugar, six yolks of eggs, one wine glass of milk, rubbed all together in a stiff paste. Note. This paste is used for tarts that are baked and lining moulds, being very short. . in pans, 332. Raised or standing Paste for Pies. Take two ounces of butter, put in a pint of water made boiling ; pour it in three pounds of flour; make it a very stiff paste; put it in a stew-pan covered ; let it heat half an hour near the fire; then knead it well, and raise it in a pie, or any shape to suit; when done, wash it well over with egg beaten up, and orna- ment the sides, fill it with bran; bake it a light co- lour, 84 COOKERY. 333. Franchipane Cream. Beat up four eggs, and boil them in a pint of cream, with four spoonfuls of flour, flavoured with orange- flower; add two spoonfuls of biscuit powder, and sugar to sweeten : when cold, put it in pastry, and cut in thin slices, dipped in batter. Bake or fry it. 334. Duchess Rolls, or Petit Chose Paste. Take half a pint of milk, two ounces of butter boiled, with half a lemon-peel grated, and one drachm of cinna- mon powder; work it in one pound of four over the fire till it becomes a stiff paste, and leaves the stew- pan; put it in a mortar, and beat in it by degrees five whole eggs, smooth. This paste may be rolled out in lengths, or made in balls, egged over, and baked twenty minutes, and served with currant jelly, or any kind of jam in the inside. Note.—This paste may be fried in hot lard, and sifted sugar put over it. 335. French Paste. Take half a pound of flour, half a pound of butter, half a pound of sifted sugar; rub the butter and sugar together; add four whole eggs by degrees, with half a pound of flour, half a lemon-peel grated, one drachm of mace and cinnamon in powder ; spread it on a copper baking-plate tinned as thick as your finger; bake it, and cut it into any shape you please while hot. 336. Croquante Paste. Twelve raw yolks of eggs, well mixed with ten ounces of fine pounded sugar, put to stand in a damp place for three days, covered over; work in one pound and a half of fine flour; if too soft add a little more ; grease the shapes or moulds with beef or mute i ton suet before covering ; cut it in patterns on the PASTRY. 85 mould, according as wanted, and bake in a cool Oven. Note. With this paste temples, pagodas, and other ornaments are made ; and it is in general called cut pastry, from the patterns being cut with a very fine knife. 007. Paste for ornamenting Hams, Tongues, or Cakes. Take one pound of the same as for raised pies; (No. 332.) work in it two ounces of fine sifted sugar; roll it very thin, and cut it with pastry cutters, as in Plates Nos. 1, 2, and 3, or out of a gum paste to fancy; let them just dry hard in the oven not to bake. Note.—To ornament hams or tongues, glaze them over, as No. 120, and stick the paste on while the glazing is warm, If for savoy cakes, use caromel sugar. (No. 676.) 338. Patties, Roll out puff paste, (No. 329.) half an inch thick; cut them with a round cutter, the size wanted; mark the top where to be taken out; glaze them over with yolk of egg and cream; and bake in a quick oven : when done cut the inside out, and put patty meat in as di- rected under the different heads of patty meats. If a top is wanted, cut a size smaller, and roll a little thinner; when baked take out the bottoms, and cover over the other. 339. Patties with Forcemeat. Line tart-pans the size wanted; put in some force- meat; (No. 183.) cover over with puff paste, as No. 329; and bake them in a moderate oven. Pour a little sauce in each. 340. Puffs. Roll and cut out the paste the ze of a large tea- cup; put any minced or forcemeat in ; fold it over, 86 COOKERY. de lit Tui , and wet the edges with eggs, and notch them ; glaze over with eggs, and bake them ; or you may fry in hot lard without glazing over. 341. Paste for lining Moulds. One pound of four mixed with a quarter of a pound of butter, and six yolks of eggs, with a glass of milk, in a stiff paste. Note. This paste is used to hold ragouts, or fri- cassee, called timballs. 342. Pie d'Amour. Roll and cut puff paste, as No. 329, as patties, (No. 338.) with a scollop-cutter, but much smaller : when baked, put marmalade, jam, jelly, or custards in them. 343. Sweetmeat Patty. Cut out puff paste as described, Vol-au-vent, No. 312; put a compote of any fruit, custards or creams in it. It may be made to any pattern, according to the dish. 344. Sweetmeat Tart. Line a tart-pan with puff paste, (No. 329.) put mar- malade or sweetmeat in, and cover it over with slips of paste, according to fancy : in general it is made like basket work. Bake and glaze with French glazing. (No. 345.) 345. French Glazing for Pastry. When pastry is nearly baked, sift some fine powder- ed sugar over; put it in the oven again, and hold a hot salamander or shovel over it, till the sugar runs into a glazing. 346. English Glazing for Pastry. Whisk up the white of one egg to a froth; brush it over the pastry with a paste brush ; cover it thick 49 0 PASTRY. 89 357. Almond Paste. Blanch and pound one pound of Jordan almonds, very fine; add a spoonful of water in the pounding to keep them from oiling ; add three quarters of a pound of fine sifted sugar : stir it together over a gentle fire to dry off the moisture. As it leaves the pan, and becomes a stiff paste, put it in pots. Note. You may add half an ounce of gum traga- canth, soaked in water, thick. 358. Tarts to turn out. Roll the biscuit paste, (No. 331.) or tart paste, (No. 330.) out thin; line a tart-pan; put the fresh fruit in with pounded sugar at the top; cover it over with the paste, thin ; make two holes at the sides, notch it neatly round, and bake : when nearly baked, glaze it with English glazing, (No. 346.) and turn out of the dish while hot. 359. Almond Paste Ornaments. Roll almond paste (No.357.) out thin; cut out with cutters (See Plates) any patterns; bake very gently in a cool oven. You may ornament cakes with this, and stick them up in dishes with caromel sugar, as No. 676. Note.-Windmills, castles, bridges, houses, boats, &c. are made of this paste, and baked very slowly ; you may serve any thing with them. 360. Almond Cups. Roll out and form cups in moulds of almond paste, as No. 357 ; hake them in a cool oven; when done fill with boiled custards or syllabub creams. 361. Almond Wafers. Pound half a pound of blanched Jordan almonds very fine, with two yolks of eggs : put to them a quarter of a pound of sugar, one lemon-peel, and half a nutmeg, 90 COOKERY. grated; add two whole eggs, and one ounce of flour; mix it well together, spread it thin on a copper tinned plate, rubbed with butter; sprinkle fine chopped ala monds over, and bake it quickly; cut it in long squares while warm, turn it over a round piece of wood till cold and crisp. 362. Bignets of Rice. Reduce two ounces of rice, well boiled in a pint of milk or cream, to a thick paste; sweeten it with two ounces of sugar; add half a lemon-peel grated, a tea- spoonful of cinnamon and mace powder; when cold roll up in small balls, dip it in egg and bread crumbs, and fry it quick; you may form it in any shape. 363. Rice and Apples. Boil a quarter of a pound of rice, with one pint of milk or cream, one ounce of butter, two ounces of sugar, and half a lemon grated; make it stiff enough to put round a dish; put a marmalade of apples in the middle; cover it over with the rice; garnish with apple jelly, or pour a custard over it. (See Custards.) 364. Rice Fritters.. Boil a quarter of a pound of rice in milk, tender; strain it dry, mix it with two eggs, one spoonful of flour, and one ounce of sugar; favour it with half a nutmeg and one lemon grated; mix it into a stiff paste, and fry it in small cakes in a saute-pan, (No. 121.) with plenty of butter, turn them ; when done, sift sugar over them, and glaze with a salamander. 365. Madaleine Cakes. Take half a pound of butter, half a pound of flour, and half a pound of sugar; mix with three eggs a tea- spoonful of cinnamon, half a lemon grated, and half a PASTRY. 91 glass of brandy; spread it out, cut it in shapes, bake and glaze with French glazing. (No. 345.) 366. Chantilly Cake. Take a savoy cake, as directed, No. 606; take out the inside, pour over it two glasess of wine; put a cus- tard (No. 403.) in it, and fill up with whipped cream. (No. 398.) 367. Chantilly Basket, Stick ratafia biscuits round the dish, or make it over a mould, with caromel sugar; (No. 676.) have different sizes of biscuits, and ornament it with comfits or dried fruits; fill the inside with four sponge biscuits, six mac- aroons soaked in wine; pour over a custard, (No. 403.) and fill up with syllabub cream. (No. 398.) Note.—A basket may be made of almond paste, No. 357 ; macaroons or small almond biscuits, and served the same way. 368. Brioche Cake. Take two pounds of Aour, mix half a pound of it with three spoonfuls of good yeast, and half a pint of milk, to set for a sponge; then mix five ounces of sugar, half a pint of cream, three quarters of a pound of but- ter, and ten eggs, with the rest of the flour, adding a tea-spoonful of salt; when the sponge has risen, mix it all together, and let it rise again, in a warm place, two hours; butter the inside of a mould, and bake it one hour, or it may be made in small loaves. Note.- If approved, stoned raisins or currants may be added. 369. Schodées. Let two ounces of butter, one ounce of sugar, six yolks, and two whites of eggs, be mixed up with one pound of flour, adding a spoonful of yeast, worked well in it; let it lie in a napkin two hours, roll it out 92 COOKERY. in round or long pieces, and put it in boiling water til? it rises, then put in cold; bake them for half an hour. 370. Cream Souffle. Take three yolks of eggs, three spoonfuls of flour, one spoonful of noyeau or white wine, mix them toge- ther, and add a pint of cream; beat up four whites of eggs to a strong froth, and mix all together; bake it in a case, and sift pounded sugar over it. 371. Souffle of ground Rice. Boil two ounces of rice flour in a pint of milk, quite thick, stirring it all the time till cold; mix in it four yolks of eggs and one lemon grated. When wanted, whisk up twelve whites of eggs to a very stiff froth; take half a pound of fine powdered sugar, and stir in the rice that has been boiled; then add the whites of eggs, and stir in all together quickly; bake it in a case or mould, lined, sifting pounded sugar over the top, before it goes into the oven. Note.-It may be flavoured with vanilla pounded, essence of coffee, ginger, or any other essence. 372. Whole Rice Souffle. Boil two ounces of rice in milk till soft; strain and dry it; mix four yolks of eggs, and proceed the same as rice souffle. (No. 371.) 373. Potatoe Souffle. Boil three large potatoes dry; rub them through a sieve; add four yolks of eggs, and proceed as Rice Souffle. (No. 371.) 374. Cream Toasts, fried. Cut savoy cake (No. 606.) in thin slices, sprinkle it with cream, and half a nutmeg grated; beat up three CREAMS AND JELLIES. 93 whole eggs, dip the slices of cake in it; fry it on a saute-pan, as No. 121, with butter. Note.--Slices of thin bread will do instead of cake, only adding sugar and wine, instead of the cream; serve with wine sauce. (See Sauces.) 375. Oven Cakes. Take half a pound of petit chose paste, (No. 334.) add a quarter of a pint of cream, and spread it over a baking plate; sprinkle over it chopped almonds, pi- stachio nuts, or sugar; bake them ; cut into round or square shapes. 376. Genoese Cakes. Roll out puff paste (No. 229.) thin; lay it on a baking plate, and spread apricot or raspberry jam over it; sprinkle a few chopped almonds, and cut it out with cutters after it is baked. 377. Flemish Gauffres. Mix a pound of flour with a pint of cream, two table- spoonfuls of yeast, a little salt, half a pound of melted butter, and three whole eggs, and keep it in a warm place for half an hour to rise; then bake it in the guaffre irons, well rubbed with butter; if too short, add a little milk ; serve with wine sauce. (See Sauces.) 378. Calf's Foot Jelly. Put on six calfs' feet in six quarts of water; boil them eight hours, till reduced to four quarts; strain and take off the fat, clean; whisk up twelve whites of eggs, with a pound and a half of coarse pounded sugar, the juice of ten lemons, and the peel of two; a small stick of cinnamon, one spoonful of grape-syrup; (No. 684.) add the stock to it while warm; boil it up. a quarter of an hour, and put in half a pint of white wine; boil it up once more; let it stand ten minutes, 94 COOKERY. covered up in the pan; then strain through a jelly bag two or three times till it runs clear. Note.-Neat's feet may be used instead of calf's. 379. Sponge Jelly. Take a pint of calf's feet jelly, as No. 378; just melt it; whisk it on some ice, till it becomes like thick cream; put it in a mould, and when cold turn it out. 380. Red Strawberry Jelly. To a pint and a half of jelly, as No. 378, put in, when melted, two spoonfuls of cochineal, as prepared No. 673; put whole strawberries in the mould with it; when cold turn it out. Note.- Raspberry jelly is made the same, by putting fresh raspberries in it. 381. Eringo Root Jelly. Take candied eringo root, isinglass, pearl barley, and hartshorn shavings, each two ounces; conserve of roses one ounce; boil these ingredients in two quarts of water, till reduced to one quart; and then strain it through a sieve. When wanted, take a tea-cupful of this jelly warmed, and mix it with the same quantity of new milk or wine. 382. Sago Jelly. Take two ounces of pearl barley, two ounces of rice, two ounces of hartshorn shavings, two ounces of tapioca, four ounces of sago, a quarter of an ounce of cinnamon, and four quarts of water; boil gently three hours; strain and rub it through a sieve; when used, take as much as is wanted; boil it up with the same quantity of milk and wine, and sweeten to taste. Note.-These two jellies are particularly recom- mended for a weak digestion. 383. Orange Jelly. Rub the rind of -ix oranges on sugar; scrape it off, To CREAMS AND JELLIES. 95 take the juice of three lemons and the oranges rubbed; boil two ounces of isinglass in a pint and a half of water for half an hour; add a half pound of sugary strain it through a lawn sieve, and put it in moulds or glasses. Note.-Lemon jelly is made the same way. 384. Currant Jelly in Moulds. Squeeze a pint of fresh currant-juice; add to it one ounce of isinglass, boiled in half a pint of water a quarter of an hour; half a pound of pounded sugar; mix all together, and strain through a tammy seive. Note.-All fruits that give juice or pulp may be made into jelly same way. 385. Apple Jelly in Moulds. Reduce two pounds of juicy apples, boiled with a tea-cupful of water; rub it through a sieve; add to it half a pound of sugar, the juice of two lemons, and two ounces of isinglass, boiled in half a pint of water, and strained ; mix all together and put in a mould. 385.* Curds and Cream. Rub a pint of curds through a sieve into a dish; pour some good cream round it; garnish with currant jelly and raspberry jam. 386. Blanc Mange. Two ounces of isinglass, boiled in a pint and a half of milk or cream half an hour; add two ounces of sweet almonds, and a quarter of an ounce of bitter al- monds, pounded fine, three ounces of sugar, and two spoonfuls of orange-flour water; strain through a tammy sieve, and put in moulds. 387. Rhenish Cream. Boil two ounces of isinglass in a pint of water, half an hour; strain it off; mix six yolks of eggs, beat up with half a pint of cream; the juice of two lemons, 96 COOKERY. and the rind of one rubbed on sugar, and scraped off; add two glasses of white wine, and a quarter of a pound of sugar; whisk all together and strain through a sieve; put it in moulds or glasses. 388. Italian Cream. Boil two ounces of isinglass in a pint and a half of cream for half an hour; add to it a spoonful of ma- rasquin, (No. 788.) one glass of white wine, three drops of the essence of roses, three ounces of sugar; strain the whole through a tammy, and put in moulds. 389. Coffee Cream in Moulds. Boil one quart of cream, with two ounces of isin- glass, and two ounces of whole roasted coffee, half an hour; strain and add a quarter of a pound of sugar; put it in moulds. A Te 390. Vanilla Cream in Moulds. Boil two ounces of isinglass in one quart of cream, with one stick of vanilla, pounded, half an hour; add a quarter of a pound of sugar, and strain; let it settle, and pour in moulds. 391. Burnt Cream in Moulds. Put two ounces of sugar in a pan; stir it over the fire till it gets brown, but not burnt; add a pint and a half of cream, with one ounce and a half of isinglass; boil it half an hour, and add a spoonful of sugar to sweeten; stir all together, strain, and put in moulds. 392. Raspberry Cream in Moulds. Boil one ounce of isinglass in half a pint of water, half an hour; strain it, and mash and rub through a sieve one pint of raspberries ; add six ounces of sugar, the juice of two lemons, and the isinglass : whisk this together till it gets thick and almost cold; in the in- PASTRY. 97 terim whisk up a quart of cream, and put on a sieve ; when done stir it all together, and put it in moulds. Note.-If ice can be had, the cream had better be put in it directly. Strawberry, apricot, peach, and damson creams, are made this way. } 393. Pine Apple Cream in Moulds. Take a tea-cupful of syrup of preserved pine, and the juice of two lemons; two ounces of sugar, and four slices of preserved fine apple, cut in small dice; mix this with two ounces of isinglass, boiled in half a pint of water for half an hour : whisk all together till nearly cold; then add a quart of cream whisked up to it, and put in moulds. Note.-Ginger cream is made the same way with preserved ginger. 394. Punch Jelly in Moulds. Add a half tea-cupful of brandy, ditto of rum, to a pint and a half of calf's feet jelly. (No. 378.) Put it in moulds and ice. 395. Mille Fruit Cream. Take a spoonful of preserved strawberries, raspoe ries, apricots, currants, green-gages, ginger, goose- berries, plums, and orange-peel, cut small; add two ounces of isinglass boiled in half a pint of water half an hour. Whisk three ounces of sugar in it till nearly cold ; then add one quart of cream whisked up to it in a froth, and put in moulds. 396. Marbled Cream in Moulds. Put of different creams, when cold, a little of each into a mould; fill up with cool jelly, (No. 378.) and put the moulds in ice. 397. Trifle Cream in Moulds. Boil one ounce of isinglass in a quarter of a pint of : F 98 COOKERY. water or milk ; mix it with three pints of trifle cream; (No. 398.) when done, put into moulds. 398. Trifle Cream in a Dish. Put half a pint of white wine in a flat dish; add the peel of one lemon rubbed in sugar, and scraped; put a pint and half of cream, and a quarter of a pound of pounded sugar to it. Whisk it in the dish; take off the froth on a sieve, as it rises, with a spoon; have an oval glass or dish, with six sponge biscuits, twelve rata- fias, and six macaroons, steeped in wine; put a boiled custard over the biscuits, (No. 403.) then cover it quite high with the whisked cream. Note.—The cream may be garnished with jelly, or preserved fruits. It is necessary to let the cream stand on the sieve a couple of hours to drain, before putting into the dish. 399. Junket. Set a quart of new milk, with half a pint of cream in it, in a glass dish, with a spoonful of rennet; pour over it half a pint of white wine, two ounces of sugar, and half a nutmeg grated; cover with plain whisked cream, and garnish with apricot jam or jelly... 400. Stone Cream. Make a blanc mange, as directed No. 386 ; put it in a flat mould; cover the bottom of a dish with pre- served green-gages, plumbs, or cherries.' Turn the blanc mange out upon them, and put a pint of thick whisked cream over all. 401. Custards in Glasses. Take a pint of cream and two ounces of sugar; half à lemon-peel rubbed on sugar, and scraped; a drachm of pounded cinnamon and mace together; add ten yolks of eggs and one spoonful of rose-water, mix and fill glasses or cups ; boil them in a stew-pan, standing PASTRY. 99 in a little water till set. Care must be taken that the water does not boil in them. 402. Custards in Paste Moulds. Line some small moulds with biscuit paste, as No. 331; fill with flour , and bake them hard; when done, take the flour out clean, make a custard, as for glasses ; (No. 401.) put it in the paste-mould, and bake tilí it sets. 403. Boiled Custards for Trifles and Pastry. Mix one pint of cream, with one lemon-peel rubbed and scraped off sugar, one drachm of cinnamon and mace together ; eight yolks of eggs whisked and boiled together, stirring all the time till it becomes thick, then pour it in glasses. Note. They may be flavoured with vanilla, orange- flower, rose, or any thing else according to taste. [Note. Though there are many more creams, the directions here given are sufficient for any person to make them. The creams for glasses and for ices shall be mentioned under the head Con. fectionary, as they do not belong to the art of cookery, although used in it.] 404. Macaroni. (Second course.) Boil a quarter of a pound of macaroni in three pints of milk and water mixed, and one ounce of but- ter, till tender; strain and put it in a stew-pan, with two ounces of butter, a spoonful of flour, and half a pint of cream; season it with pepper and salt, and a quarter of a pound of Parmesan cheese, grated; mix and boil it together, put some grated cheese over it in the dish, and brown it with a salamander. 405. Ramequins. (Second course.) Take a quarter of a pint of milk, one ounce of but- ter, and boil together; adding two spoonfuls of flour, and stirring well till quite hot; stir in four whole eggs, 398041B F 2 100 COOKERY. be put smooth, and two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese ; bake it in papers made as small boxes, or cases made in a mould. 406. Fondeau. (Second course.) Mix a quarter of a pound of butter and a quarter of a pound of flour together, with a pint and half of eream ; boil it to the consistence of a paste ; when cold stir in it four whole eggs, and a quarter of a pound of Parmesan cheese grated ; season with pepper and salt, line a mould with biscuit paste (No. 331.), and bake one hour; or it may in paper the same as ramequins are. 407. Cheesecakes, savory. (Second course.) Pound a pint of curd well drained, with three ounces of butter ; add four whole eggs and the yolks of two; rub through a sieve, and add a quarter of a pound of Parmesan cheese grated ; season with salt and pepper; line small tart-pans, or little deep moulds, with puff paste; (No. 329.) fill them, and bake ten minutes. 408. Sweet Macaroni. (Second course.) Boil a quarter of a pound of macaroni tender; (See Macaroni, No. 404.) pass off, as No. 47, one ounce of butter; a spoonful of flour, with the peel of one lemon grated; a drachm of pounded einnamon, and two ounces of sugar ; add half a pint of cream, and boil all together; when sent in the dish, sprinkle it over with nutmeg and pounded cinnamon, to make it a light brown. It may be served hot or cold. OMELETTE. There are several sorts of omelettes, but I shall only mention a few, as they are all done nearly the same way. 409. French Omelette, Souffle. (Second Course.) Break eight eggs, separate the whites from the yolks; PASTRY. 101 put chopped parsley, mushroom, and shalot, of each a tea-spoonful, to the yolks ; beat them up with two ounces of butter, and one glass of cream, salt, and pepper : whisk the whites up to a froth ; mix with the yolks, and fry to a fine colour. Note. A sauce may be served with it. 410. Sweet Omelette. (Second course.) Break six eggs; separate the whites; mix the yolks with a quarter of a pound of sugar; two spoonfuls of flour; the peel of one, lemon, grated; and one drachm of pounded mace: whisk up the whites to a stiff froth; then mix all together, and fry it. When done at the bottom turn it into a dish, and let it colour in the oven: it may be glazed with French glazing. (No. 345.) 411. French Omelette, plain.. (Second course.) Beat up eight whole eggs, with two ounces of butter, a quarter of a pint of cream, a spoonful of chopped onion, parsley, and mushroom, salt, and pepper; and half a nutmeg grated; fry, stirring it in the pan till perfectly set, turn, and let it have a good colour : a sauce may be served under it. 412. Omelette with Ham. (Second course.) Cut three ounces of ham, fat and lean, in smali squares; when fried put the mixture of French omelette; (No. 411.) then fry all together, of a fine brown. 413. German Omelette. (Second course.) Fry a quarter of a pound of bacon cut in dice ; when done beat up eight eggs, with pepper and salt; put them to the bacon, and fry all together : stir it till it gets thick ; turn it into the dish. 414. Rice Pancakes. Second course.) Boil a pint of milk or cream, with two spoonfuls of ļ02 COOKERY. ground rice, till thick; add two ounces of butter, melted; three spoonfuls of flour; six eggs, all beaten up, with half a nutmeg and two ounces of sugar, and fry them as pancakes. 415. Pancakes, plain. (Second course.) Beat up three whole eggs and six spoonfuls of flour, a pint of milk, and two ounces of butter melted in a batter, not too thin, but sufficient to run all over the pan. Half a grated nutmeg may be added, if approved, Fry, and turn them over in the pan : when served up, roll them; or serve them flat, with a little sugar, şifted over them ; orange or lemon-juice to be sent up with them. Note.—Mashed apple, or any other sweetmeat, may be served between them. 416. Scotch Pancake. (Second course.) Separate the whites of four eggs ; beat them up to a froth; mix the yolks with two spoonfuls of flour j three spoonfuls of milk; and half a glass of brandy add the whites, and fry it. 417. Spanish Puffs. (Second course.) Make a paste the same as the petit chose ; (No. 334.) add three whole eggs, and stir them well in ; drop this mixture in boiling lard off a spoon; let them fry gently, and they will swell to a great size. Note. A piece the size of a walnut dropped in is sufficient for a good sized puff; sift sugar over them, and serve on a napkin. 418. Fine Pancake. (Second course.) Beat up a pint of cream, eight whole eggs, a quarter of a pound of melted butter; half a nutmeg, grated; three spoonfuls of flour ; and two ounces of sugar ; fry it. Serve sugar and orange or lemon-juice between. 104 COOKERY. of a pound of butter, melted; four spoonfuls of flouri and one ounce of sugar; half a nutmeg, and half a lemon-peel grated ; fry this on one side only, as it is too light to turn. This mixture may be boiled in cups. 423.* Boiling Puddings. This is done two ways, which ought to be particu- larly attended to; the first is by immersing them to- tally in boiling water; the second, by steaming them in a balnea marie or water-bath; this is done by plac- ing the mould or basin in a stew-pan, with hot water just sufficient to boil it without boiling over. All liquid puddings should be boiled this way, as they are apt to be spoiled if the water gets to them; particularly boiled souffle, custard, muffins, and light puddings. Dumplings of all sorts are boiled in a cloth, in plenty of water ; excepting yeast dumplings, which are much better for being steamed. Note.-The common tin steamer is of particular use, and most convenient for these purposes ; but care must be taken to supply it with water as it consumes, and keep it gently boiling all the time. 424. Almond Puddings. (Second course.) Take a quarter of a pound of blanched Jordan al- monds, pounded fine; four whole eggs; the whites of two; a pint of cream, and a quarter of a pound of butter melted in it; two spoonfuls of flour; and two ounces of sugar; mix these by degrees in the cream when cold : bake in a dish lined with tart paste, as No. 330, round it. Two or three bitter almonds may be added to the other almonds, 425. Plum Pudding, rich. (Second course.) Take one pound of suet, chopped ; one pound of currants ; onę pound of raisins, stoned; two ounces PASTRY. 103 of candied orange and lemon-peel, cut fine ; one pound of bread crumbs; three ounces of sugar; one lemon- peel, grated; a tea-spoonful of pounded cinnamon, mace, and clove, all together; mix these ingredients up, with six whole eggs, and half a glass af brandy; boil in a mould buttered and floured, or a cloth, one hour and a half; or it may be baked : serve wine sauce with it. (See Sauces.) 426. Plum Pudding, common. To one pound of currants, one pound of raisins, stoned, two pounds of suet, chopped, a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, and a spoonful of pounded all- spice, mixed up with eight eggs, put as much milk as will make it a thick batter. Tie up in a cloth wetted and floured, and boil it four hours; or it may be baked in a dish. 427. Cream Pudding. Take two spoonfuls of flour, one ounce of sugar ; mix them with a pint of cream, and eight yolks of eggs; boil or steam it in a basin, tied over with a cloth, three quarters of an hour. 428. Suet Pudding. Chop half a pound of suet, mixed with three quar- ters of a pound of flour, three whole eggs, a quarter of a pint of milk; make it into a stiff paste, and boi in a cloth one hour and a half: serve sugar and but- ter with it. Note.-Suet dumplings are made the same way, but much smaller, and boiled half an hour. 429. Suet Pudding without Suet. Beat two eggs up, with a tea-spoonful of salt, a team cupful of thick cream, and a tea-cupful of butter, melted ; a half tea-cupful of milk; and half a pound 106 COOKERY. of flour ; put it in a basin buttered and floured, tie a cloth over, and boil it one hour and a half. 430. Yorkshire Pudding, Beat up seven whole eggs, with a tea-spoonful of salt, three quarters of a pound of flour, and one quart of milk; put in a tin pan under the meat while roasting. 431. Batter Pudding. Take a quarter of a pound of flour beat up with six whole eggs, and a pint of milk to make it like thick cream ; butter and flour the bason; tie a cloth over it; and boil it three quarters of an hour. Note.-A baked batter putting is made the same way, 432. Custard Pudding. Line a dish round the sides with a tart paste ; (No. 330.) make a custard with eight yolks of eggs; half a pint of cream or milk ; half a lemon grated; two spoonfuls of orange-flower water; and two ounces of sugar : mix all together, and bake till it is set. 433. Tapioca Pudding. Boil two ounces of tapioca tender in a pint of milk; beat up five yolks, and one whole egg, with half a pint of cream ; two ounces of butter, melted; two ounces of sugar ; one lemon-peel, grated : bake it half an hour in a dish lined with tart paste. (No 330.) 434. Rice Pudding, Boil two ounces of rice tender in a pint and a half of milk; beat up four yolks and two whole eggs, a quarter of a pound of sugar, two ounces of butter melted, and half a nutmeg grated; mix this with the rice and milk when cold; bake in a dish lined with tart paste. (No. 330.) PASTRY. 107 435. Slop Rice Pudding. Boil two ounces of rice tender in a quart of milk; add one ounce of butter melted, one ounce of sugar, with half á nutmeg grated; put the rice and milk in a dish lined with tart paste, (No. 330.) and bake till it is brown at top. 436. Ground Rice Pudding: Boil two ounces of ground rice in a pint and a half of milk to a paste; when cold add one ounce of butter; melted in half a pint of cream; six yolks and two whole eggs, one lemon-peel, and half a nutmeg, grated; two spoonfuls of orange flower water, and half an ounce of citron, cut; line a dish with paste; (No. 330.) bake it half an hour. 437. Vermicelli Pudding. Boil three ounces of vermicelli tender, in a pint and a half of milk; proceed as in ground rice, (No. 436.) leaving out the citron. Note-Macaroni and barley puddings are made just the same. 438. Rice Pudding without Eggs. Put half a pound of rice, well washed, into three pints of milk, with half a pound of chopped suet, and half a pound of moist sugar; bake it till the rice is tender. 439. Cheesecake Pudding, Pound a pint of curd, two ounces of butter, three ounces of sugar, half a nutmeg, and one lemon-peel, grated; a table-spoonful of brandy, four whole eggs, and the yolks of two; rub it through a seive ; line a dish with tart paste, (No. 330.) and bake it, or it may be boiled in a mould, buttered. 440. Ginger Pudding. Put twelve sponge biscuits, soaked in a pint of cream 108 COOKERY. or milk, ten yolks of eggs, two ounces of preserved wet ginger, cut in small pieces, a spoonful of the gin- ger syrup, and two ounces of butter, melted; bake it in a dish lined with tart paste; or boil it in a mould, standing in a stew-pan, with a little water. 441. Apple Pudding. To one pound of flour add six ounces of butter; make it into a stiff paste, with water; roll it out, and cover the inside of a pudding-basin or mould, buttered and floured; boil eight apples down, with one ounce of but- ter, 'to a pulp; add the peel of one lemon, and rub it through a sieve; put this into the basin or mould; cover it with the paste, tie it in a cloth, and let it boil one hour; when turned out cut a hole in the top, and put a little butter, sugar, and grated nutmeg in it. 442. Morella Cherry Pudding. Butter a pudding-basin, then fill it quite full with morella cherries, picked from the stalks and stoned; put plenty of sugar to sweeten, as morella cherries re- quire more sweetening than any other fruit; make a batter with four whole eggs, a pint of milk, and two large spoonfuls of flour, and pour on the cherries in the basin; tie a cloth over it, and boil it one hour and a half; when done turn it in a deep dish. Note.--Damson pudding to be made in the same way. 443. Currant and Raspberry Pudding, Make a paste, the same as directed in No. 441; line a basin or mould, floured and buttered; put three parts currants, picked, and one part raspberries; cover it with sugar and paste; tie it in a cloth and boil it one hour; turn it into a deep dish. Blackcurrant, damson, green-gage, gooseberry, peach, cherry, and apricot puddings are made in the same way. PASTRY. 109 All sorts of fruit dumplings are also made the same way, except that they are tied in a cloth and boiled half an hour. 444. Custard Pudding in paste. Raise eight small pie shells with biscuit paste; (No. 331.) fill them with four and bake them; have a cus- tard made as directed, No. 432, put it in the shells, and bake them till they are set, and brown at top. 445. Muffin or Cabinet Pudding. Cut three muffins in two; pour a pint and a half of boiling milk over them; let them stand till cold; make a custard of eight yolks and four whole eggs, beat up with one pint of cream and one glass of brandy, one nutmeg, a quarter of a pound of sugar, and one lemon-peel, grated; butter a mould, place some dried cherries in it according to fancy; lay a layer of muffin, drained, and dried cherries and custard to cover, alter- nately, till the mould is full; boil it in a stew-pan, with a little water for the mould to stand in, (See No. 423.*) one hour and a half; serve wine sauce with it. (See Sauces.) Note.-French plum pudding is made the same way. 446. College Pudding, fried. Take half a pound of currants, half a pound of suet, and half a pound of crumbs of bread; one ounce of chopped orange and candied lemon-peel, one nutmeg, two ounces of sugar, and a glass of brandy; mix these into a stiff paste with four whole eggs; roll it in balls, dipped in eggs and crumbs of bread; fry them in hot lard till done, or they may be boiled in a cloth half an hour; serve wine sauce. (See Sauces.) 447. Shrewsbury Pudding. Line a dish with a tart paste; (No. 330.) mix half a pound of crumbs of bread, four ounces of currants, eight 110 COOKERY. yolks of eggs, and two ounces of butter melted in a pint of cream, two ounces of sugar and a spoonful of rose-water; mix these all together and bake. 448. Sussex Pudding. Mix flour and milk together in a hard and stiff paste; flatten it out round; boil it half an hour; serve butter and sugar. 449. Marrow Pudding: Line a dish with tart paste; (No. 330.) spread beef marrow on bread; cut it in thin slices; lay a layer of bread in the dish; make a custard with one pint of cream or milk; add eight yolks of eggs, a spoonful of rose water, two ounces of currants; fill the dish with these alternately, and bake. 450. Marrow Pudding, another way. Boil with a quart of milk; one lemon-peel, and a team spoonful of cinnamon, and strain it; add half a pound of chopped marrow, a quarter of a pound of currants, a quarter of a pound of citron, sliced, half a nutmeg grated, one glass of brandy, and twelve sponge bis- cuits; when the mixture is cold, add eight yolks and three whites of eggs; bake it in a dish lined with tart paste. (No. 330.) 451. Potatoe Pudding. Take one pound of mealy potatoes boiled, rub them through a sieve; add four ounces of fresh butter, melted in half a pint of cream, six ounces of sugar, six-whole eggs, one ounce of currants, one lemon-peel, and half a nutmeg grated, with a spoonful of brandy; mix all these together, and bake in a dish lined with puff paste. (No. 329.) Note. This may be boiled or steamed in a mould. PASTRY. 111 452. Orange Pudding. Peel six china oranges very thin; boil them till ten- der, and pound in a mortar to a paste; take eight sponge biscuits, two ounces of butter, melted in one pint of cream and three ounces of sugar, the juice of two oranges, six yolks and two whites of eggs; mix all these together, and bake in a dish lined with tart paste. (No. 330.) Note. -A lemon pudding is made the same way. 453. Tansey Pudding. Pound and squeeze the juice of tansey; add half a tea-cupful to the same quantity of spinach-juice; make a custard with eight yolks of eggs and the whites of two, two ounces of butter, melted in a pint of cream, and two ounces of sugar; mix the tansey-juice with it, and pour over it eight sponge biscuits; put all into a dish lined with paste, (No. 330.) and bake half an hour, 454. Neats Foot, or Cow's Heel Pudding. Cut the gristly part of a cow's heel into small dice; take the same quantity of currants, raisins, chopped suet, and crumbs of bread; one ounce of sugar, a spoonful of allspice, mace, and cinnamon in powder; one lemon-peel grated, six whole eggs, and one glass of brandy; mix these well together; put it into a mould, buttered and floured; or tie it in a cloth, and boil it one hour and a half; serve wine sauce with it. (See Sauces.) 455. Sago Pudding. Boil two ounces of sago. in half a pint of milk till tender; proceed as directed in rice pudding; (No. 434.) serve wine sauce. (See Sauces.) 456. Almond Pudding, boiled. Pound half a pound of blanched sweet almonds fine; mix them with four ounces of butter, melted in a pint PASTRY. 113 buttered, three quarters of an hour; serve wine sauce. (See Sauces.) 461. Hasty Pudding. Boil a quart of milk with two or three laurel leaves; throw in two ounces of flour out of a dredging box, whilst boiling; stir all the time till thick enough; put it into a dish, with a piece of butter in the middle, and moist sugar, and half a nutmeg grated over it. 462. Apricot Pudding. Mash six ripe apricots through a sieve; add one pint of cream, four ounces of sugar, four yolks and two whole eggs, one ounce of butter, melted; mix all to- gether, and bake in a dish lined with puff paste, (No. 329.) and glaze the top. Note.-Apple, peach, and plum puddings are baked the same way. 463. Ratafia Pudding. Boil a quarter of a pound of ratafias in a pint of cream or milk; add two ounces of sugar, one spoonful of flour, and two ounces of butter, also four yolks and two whole eggs; bake the whole in a dish lined with puff paste; (No. 329.) a few chopped almonds may be added ac- cording to taste. 464. Quaking Pudding. Beat one pint of cream with three yolks and three whole eggs; also two spoonfuls of orange-flower water ; stir in it a spoonful of flour by degrees; boil it in a basin, buttered and floured, half an hour; and serve wine sauce with it. (See Sauces.) 465. Pease Pudding. Boil a quart of split pease in a cloth, tender, mash and rub them through a sieve; add three whole eggs, three ounces of butter, salt and pepper to taste; tie 114 COOKERY. it up in a cloth, and let it boil again half an hour, then 'turn it out. 466. Yeast Dumplings. Set one pound of four with three spoonfuls of yeast, and half a cupful of warm milk; let it rise in a warm place for one hour; work it well up and make it the size of a small orange; let them remain ten minutes after making up, and boil in plenty of water four minutes; serve wine sauce. (See Sauces.) Note. If convenient to steam them twenty minutes they are much better. 467. Batter for Fritters. Mix three spoonfuls of flour with one egg, and a quarter of a pint of small beer or ale, with a tea-spoon-'. ful of sweet oil, into a thick batter. 468. Apple Fritters. Cut the apples in round slices; take out the core with a round cutter; dip them in the batter, (No. 467.) and fry brown in plenty of hot lard; (See Frying, No. 118.) sift sugar over them and glaze with a salamander, Note.-- All fruit fritters may be done this way; this batter also will make excellent plain fritters, and may be served with raspberry jam, or any other sweetmeat. 469. To clarify Dripping for frying. Put it into a pan with plenty of cold water; let it boil a quarter of an hour; strain all together through a sieve; next day take the fat off the top carefully, and scrape the under side; repeat this boiling twice more, then put it into pans, quite free from the water, and tie it over. 470. Buttered Eggs. (Second course.) Break eight eggs with two ounces of butter; season with pepper and salt to taste; toast a slice of bread, and PASTRY. 115 butter it; spread made mustard over; fry the eggs, con- stantly stirring till they become thick; put them over the toast, and cut into small squares. 471. To Poach Eggs. Put a tea-cupful of vinegar into a quart of water; let it boil; stir it round quickly with a spoon; drop the eggs into it out of a tea-cup; let them boil a minute, take them out, and put them into cold water; cut the edges off, and add hot water to them when sent to ta- ble; serve on toasted bread and butter in pieces. 472. Eggs in Paper Cases. (Second course.) Make six cases large enough to hold an egg each; season with salt and pepper; add a tea-spoonful of chopped onion and parsley to the eggs; butter the cases, fill them, and bake till set. 473. Egg Fricassee. (Second course.) Boil eight eggs hard; take the yolks out, and put them in the middle of a dish; place the whites round; cut in shapes; pour over white sauce, (No. 45.) quite hot, or mustard and butter. 474. Egg Vermicelli. (Second course.) Boil eight yolks of eggs hard; put three ounces of butter to them ; pound them together, and rub all through a coarse sieve into the dish it is to be served in; when used, spread it on a cold toast, buttered. 475. Egg Satad. (Second course.) Boil eight eggs hard; chop the yolks and whites se- parately; put a little salad into the dish; cover it over with the eggs in layers ; when done, make a hole in the middle, and pour in the mixture No. 112. 476. Plover's Eggs. (Second course). Boil and peel the plover's eggs; put them in aspic jelly, in a mould. (No. 477.) 116 COOKERY. 477. Savory or Aspic Jelly. Boil four calf's feet, as No. 378, and put half a pound of lean ham in while boiling ; when strained off and the fat taken away, put the juice of two lemons, a tea-spoonful of whole pepper, and one blade of mace, and salt to flavour; a bunch of sweet herbs (See Note, No. 1.) and two onions; whisk in ten whites of eggs, and let them boil till curdled; put the whole through a jelly bag three or four times, till quite clear; three ta- ble-spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar may be put in, if wished; this savory jelly is used for the tops of cold pies, and for garnishing all sorts of cold meats and fish. Note.- It may be coloured pink with cochineal, or green with spinach-juice, if wanted for ornamenting cold dishes. BOILING VEGETABLES. 5 In boiling vegetables, care must be taken to skim them well; and all green vegetables should be boiled very quickly, with a small portion of salt in the water, or a tea-spoonful of soda, which will make them green and tender; if boiled in spring water soda should not be omitted. I shall mention particularly the boiling of potatoes, as much depends on that vegetable being well done. In noticing the time necessary for boiling ve- getables, I shall enumerate a few :- Greens will take twenty minutes, quick boiling. Green Pease, twenty minutes. Artichokes, half an hour. Turnips, a quarter of an hour. Garden Beans, half an hour. Brocoli, a quarter of an hour Asparagus, half an hour. Beet Roots, three hours. Parsnips, half an hour. Cauliflower, Sea Cale, Jerusalem Artichokes, peeled BOILING VEGETABLES. 117 and boiled in water, and a spoonful of flour mixed, twenty minutes. Carrots not to be cut, but well scraped, and boiled a whole hour, and cut after being boiled. 478. To boil Putatoes. Peel the potatoes neatly, put them into a sauce-pang and cover with water; when they have boiled three minutes, strain the water from them; sprinkle a little salt over, and cover them with a cloth, and the cover of the sauce-pan; let them thus steam gently beside the fire, till quite tender and dry. 479. Sauer Kraut (German). Shred twelve large Scotch cabbages very fine, taking out the stalks; add three quarters of a pound of salt, one ounce of juniper berries, and one ounce of carra- way seeds, and mix all well together; put the mix- ture into a clean small cask; press it down very hard, and cover it over with a cloth and a wooden cover, so as to lay on the cabbage; put a large weight or stone on it, to press it down for two months, when it will be fit to use; the liquor that rises must be kept on it con- stantly. 480. Sauer Kraut to stew. Put a quart of sauer kraut on with two ounces of but- ter, and half a pint of gravy (No. 6.) or broth; let it stew three hours gently; serve it under pork or fresh beef. If not sour enough, add the squeeze of a lemon to it. 481. Stewed Pease. (Second course.) Put a quart of young pease into a stew-pan, with two ounces of butter, one onion, a sprig of mint, a spoon- ful of sugar, and two spoonfuls of gravy; let them all stew till done; then take the onion and mint out; sea- son with salt; take half an ounce of butter and half 118 COOKERY. a spoonful of flour to thicken; and add one glass of cream, with two yolks of eggs beat into it; heat it to- gether quite hot. 482. Stewed Cucumbers. (Second course.) Peel four cucumbers; take out the seeds with a scoop; put in the place of them forcemeat; (No. 183.) put them into a stew-pan, with two ounces of butter, a spoonful of vinegar, one onion, and a quarter of a pint of gravy; (No. 6.) let them stew till tender; strain off thicken it with butter and flour; season it with salt, and pour over them. 483. Stewed Celery, white. (Second course.) Cut and trim eight heads of celery the length of a small dish ; stew them tender with a tea-cupful of white gravy, (No. 7.) and two ounces of butter, with a little salt ; when done thicken the sauce with a glass of cream, and six yolks of eggs beat in it: heat it till thick, but not to boil. the sauce ; La 484. Stewed Celery, brown. (Second course.) Stew it the same as No. 483; when done thicken the sauce, and add a little brown sauce, (No. 43.) and pour over the celery. 485. Stewed Spinach. (Second course.) Boil a peck of spinach without water ; squeeze it dry, and chop fine; add two ounces of butter, a spoon- ful of flour, half a pint of cream, with two yolks of eggs beat up in it; season with salt, and boil all together. 486. Ragout of Onions. (Second course.) Boil two dozen of button onions in water till tender; put half a pint of brown sauce (No. 43.) to them, and season with salt. Note.-Cardoons, salsify, scorzonera, Jerusalem arti- BOILING VEGETABLES. 119 1 chokes, and French beans, may all be boiled tender, (See Boiling) and put into white sauce, (No. 45.) or brown sauce. (No. 43.) 487. 'Truffles. (Second course.) Brush and clean one pound of truffles ; cover them with wine, and boil them half an hour; serve on a nap- kin quite hot. 488. Mushrooms stewed. (Second course.) Keep the mushrooms, while paring, in water, with lemon-juice ; strain and put them into a stew-pan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, pepper, salt, and the squeeze of half a lemon ; let them stew half an hour till tender ; thicken with a spoonful of flour, mixed with half a pint of cream, and boil all together. Note.--If to be served brown, add half a pint of brown sauce. (No. 43.) 489. Stewed Artichokes. (Second Course.) Boil them tender, take off the leaves and the inside; put them into a brown sauce, (No. 43.) with sweet herbs, as Note, No. 1; or they may be served in white sauce, as No. 45. 490. Artichokes fried. (Second course.) Cut young artichokes in quarters ; dip them in bat- ter, (No. 266.) and fry them brown. 491. Celery to fry. Boil it tender; (See Stewed Celery, No. 483.) dip it in batter, as No. 490, and fry brown. Note.-Cardoons, salsify, scorzonera, may be done the same way. 492. Cauliflower and Cheese. (Second course.) Boil a cauliflower tender ; put a quarter of a pint of 120 COOKERY. . white sauce (No. 45.) over it in the dish ; cover it with Parmesan cheese, grated, and brown it with a sala- mander. 493. Cabbage forced. (Second course.) Blanch three or four young cabbages, as No. 3 ; take out the heart and stalk; fill them with forcemeat; (No. 183.) tie them up, and braize as No. 119; put half a pint of brown sauce (No. 43.) over them. 494. Red Cabbage to stew. (Second course.) Cut half a red cabbage in thin shreds; put it on with four ounces of butter, and half a pint of gravy; stew it tender; add a spoonful of flour, and a quarter of a pint of brown sauce; (No. 43.) season with salt, and boil it together ten minutes, Tomatas forced. (Second course.) Scrape out the inside of eight tomatas; drain, rub through a sieve, and add one ounce of crumbs of bread, one ounce of butter, pepper, and salt ; put this in the skins again ; bake them ten minutes; serve brown sauce, as No. 43, under, 496. Quashies. (Second course.) Boil tender, (See Boiling, Nos. 477, 478.) and serve on a toast with white sauce, (No. 45.) or melted butter under them. 497. Morels. (Second course.) Wash them very clean ; put some forcemeat (No. 183.) in them ; braize as No. 119, and serve with white (No. 45.) or brown sauce. (No. 43.) 498. Endive stewed. (Second course.) Blanch twelve heads of endive, as No.3; put two ounces of butter, with half a pint of gravy; (No. 6.) BOILING VEGETABLES. 121 season with salt; when done tender, thicken with flour and butter ; serve poached eggs on it. Note.-Lettuces may be done the same way. 499. Ragout of Potatoes. (Second course.) Cut potatoes round with a cutter; put them into but- ter sufficient to cover them ; shake them over the fire till done ; then strain the butter off, and add brown - sauce, as No. 43, to cover them. 500. Colcannon. Chop an equal quantity of boiled cabbage and pota- toes ; add two ounces of butter to them ; season with pepper and salt, and fry them together. 501. Sea Cale. (Second course.) Boil it twenty minutes in water, mixed with a spoon- ful of flour and half an ounce of butter; when boiled serve it on a toast, or pour white sauce, (No. 45.) or melted butter over it. 502. Colrabi.' (Second course.) Peel and cut the colrabi into thin slices; save the top with the green on; cut them round with a cutter, and place round a dish with the green in the middle; cover with white sauce, as No. 45. Note.--The slices may be dipped in butter, and fried after being boiled. 503. Potatoes fried. (Second course.) Peel and cut in very thin slices, and dry in a cloth well ; put them in boiling hot fat; fry till crisp ; sprinkle a little salt over them. 504, Potatoes Maitre d'Hotel. (Second course.) Boil new or old potatoes; cut with a round cutter, and put them in butter, as No. 499; , when done, put a maitre d'hotel sauce (No. 104.) over, G 122 COOKERY. 505. Macedoine of Roots. (Second course.) Boil two dozen of asparagus tops, green; twelve button onions; half a cauliflower; two turnips, and two carrots; cut with a cutter, twelve new potatoes and twenty French beans; add a pint of white sauce, (No. 45.) or brown sauce. (No. 43.) 506. Branching Brocoli. Peel the branches of brocoli, the length of aspara- gus, leaving the tops: tie them in a bunch, boil them green ; (See Boiling, No. 477, 478.) serve on a toast, or with butter melted. 507. Artichokes forced. (Second course.) Boil the artichokes ; take off the leaves and choke; put some forcemeat (No. 183.) on the bottom; braize, as No. 119, ten minutes; serve with a sauce piquante. (See Sauces.) 508. Italian Salad. (Second course:) Take half a pint of small salad, half a beet root boiled, one cucumber, three boiled eggs; cut in joints a small roasted chicken, place the salad according to fancy, with the different ingredients; cut with cutters or ehop to any form ; chopped parsley may be added ; if necessary, put a remolade or aspic sauce in it; (No. 84 or 86.) cut a flower out of a boiled carrot or tur- nip, and place at top. Note. -Olives or small button onions boiled may be added. 509. Traffle Salad. (Second course.) Put cut slices of boiled truffles, and slices of ham round the dish ; add the remolade sauce. (No, 84.) 510. Lobster Salad. Second course.) Pick two lobsters ; put a handful of salad of lettuce FISH 123 cut in a dish; cover it over with the pieces of lobster; add three eggs, boiled hard, half a dozen slices of beet- root, boiled, and cover all over with salad mixture. (No. 1:12.) Note. This dish may be made to fancy, ornamented with different articles. 511. Fried Parsley. Pick, wash, and dry four handfuls of parsley, in a cloth; throw it in boiling lard four seconds; strain it from the fat on a sieve; let it dry on a cloth. FISH. 512.-CARE should be taken that the fish boils very gently after it has once boiled up, not forgetting to put in the water a handful of salt, and repeatedly skim- ming it. Salmon should be boiled in strong salt and water, made boiling; a piece of eight pounds will take one hour boiling; and if larger, allow a quarter of an hour to every pound. The following times are given as necessary for the different fish: Turbot of twelve pounds, put on in cold water, and boil very gently half an hour after it has boiled. Cod's Head and Shoulders, put in cold water, one hour. Slices of Crimped Cod, in boiling water, twelve minutes. Haddocks, in hot water, according to size, from ten to twenty minutes. Whitings, in boiling water, from six to ten minutes. Crimped Skate, fifteen minutes, in boiling water. Mackerel, to be rubbed over with vinegar half an hour before boiling, and boiled very gently in warm water, mixed with a tea-cupful of vinegar, twenty minutes. Brill, according to size, the same as turbots. Soles, in boiling water, from five to ten minutes. Lobsters and Crabs, in boiling water, according to G 2 124 COOKERY. size; a middling-sized lobster will take half an hour; the same with crabs. Pike, of eight pounds, in boiling water, one hour. Perch and Tench, in cold water, from ten to fifteen minutes. Large Eels should be cut and laid in water, with two ounces of alum in it, for two hours before boiling; put in cold water, with a large bunch of parsley, and sim- mered ten minutes. Flat Fish and Flounders, from five to ten minutes, 513. Turbot to boil. Take out of the back two inches of the bone; slit the brown side of the turbot; put it on with cold water, and a lump of alum, the size of a walnut; let it come to a boil and skim it; let it simmer half an hour after it boils; when done, put a quart of cold water in it and keep till wanted; serve lobster sauce. (No. 87.) Note.-The sized turbot mentioned here is about twelve pounds; if larger or smaller the time must be regulated accordingly. 514. Salmon to boil. Make a strong brine of salt and water; put the sal- mon in a piece; let it boil gently (See Boiling Fish, No. 512.) one hour or more, according to quantity; serve lobster (No. 87.) or fennel sauce. (No. 58.) 515. Salmon Fricandeau. Skin and lard a good-sized piece of salmon; braize it, as No. 119, one hour; strain the braize; when done take off the fat; add a glass of white wine, and a spoonful of thickening, as No. 42.; boil it up; serve under the salmon glazed. Mackerel and sturgeon may be done the same way. 516. Salmon Pickle. Cut and wash the slices of salmon; put them in boil- FISH. 125 ing brine; boil half an hour; when done, dry on a cloth; pack it close in a pan or tub; cover it over with strong vinegar and close it up. Note.-Sturgeon is done the same way. 517. Salmon Collops. Cut the salmon in collops very thin; season with pep- per and salt, and fry on a saute-pan, (No. 121.) with butter; place them round a dish; serve sharp or stewed sauce (See Sauces) over them. 518. Salmon Slices in paper, broiled. . Cut the salmon in slices; season with salt; oil the paper and fold it all round; boil or bake them gently; serve anchovy (No. 90.) or lobster sauce (No. 87.) 519. Haddock Fillets, Maitre d'Hotel. Take the two sides of a haddock off the bone; pass off, as No. 47, a spoonful of chopped onion, parsley, and mushroom; pour it over the fillets, with pepper and salt; fry them on a saute-pan, as No. 121 ; when done, serve under them a maitre d'hotel sauce. (No. 104.) Note.-Whiting may be done the same way. 520. Rizard Haddock. Skin a haddock, and salt it inside and out, eight hours; broil it gently till done; serve egg sauce with it. (See Sauces.) 521. Haddocks fricd. Take the fillets off the bone; dip them in egg and bread crumbs; fry in hot lard: or they may be fried whole the same way; serve lobster, (No. 87.) oyster, (No. 93.) or anchovy sauce. (No. 90.) Note.--Whitings, soles, plaice, and smelts are fried the same way. 126 COOKERY. 522. Fillets of Soles, plain. Cut the fillets off two soles in eight pieces; season with pepper and salt; fry on a saute-pan, as No. 121, with butter; glaze, as Note, No. 120; and serve a quarter of a pint of white sauce under them. (No. 45.) 523. Fillets of Soles, Maitre d'Hotel. Cut the fillets of two soles off the bones, in eight pieces; season them with salt and pepper; sprinkle over them a spoonful of chopped parsley and two shalots; roll them up; put in a braize, as No. 119, half an hour; when done, serve a maitre d'hotel (No. 105.) over them. 524. Fillets of Soles in Aspic Jelly. Proceed the same as soles, maitre d'hotel; (No. 523.) dry them well with a cloth, out of the braize; put them in a mould and garnish the inside; cover over with aspic jelly; (No. 477.) when cold turn out. Smelts may be done the same way. . 525. Sole Pie. Take the bones out of four soles; season the fillets with pepper or salt; a spoonful of chopped parsley, mushroom, and shalot, all together; fill up the pie; put a few slices of fat bacon over, and cover with the crust; when done put a half pint of brown sauce, (No. 43.) or white, (No. 45.) in it. Note. This pie may be made with the standing crust, (No. 332.) or puff paste. (No. 329.) 526. Soles baked. Bone and take off the fillets, or they may be done whole; season with pepper and salt; a spoonful of chopped onion, parsley, and mushroom may be sprinkled over them; lay them in a dish, with some butter on them, in pieces; cover with crumbs of bread, and so on FISH. 127 sauce, alternately, till the dish is full; bake them one hour, and serve in the dish with their own gravy. Note. Plaice, smelts, haddock, and whiting are done the same way. 527. Eels to broil or spitchcock. Take the bone out of a large eel; cut it in square pieces; season with salt and pepper; put a spoonful of chopped parsley and onion, together, over them; dip them in egg and bread crumbs; broil over a gentle fire, or bake them a quarter of an hour; serve anchovy (No. 90.) Note.-If a small eel, cut it in lengths, without bon- ing, and do it the same way. 528. Stewed Eels, or Matelot. Cut two pounds of eels four inches long; put in a stew-pan, with one large onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, as No. 1, a tea-spoonful of mace and allspice, toge- ther; half a pint of port wine and half a pint of gravy, one spoonful of anchovy essence, and two ditto of mushroom ketchup; let them stew three quarters of an hour; strain the gravy; thicken it with thickening; (No. 42.) add salt and pepper, with the juice of half lemon; boil it five minutes; add the eel and one dozen of button onions, boiled tender. Note.--If for a matelot, tench, carp, trout, and the tails of lobsters may be added; or each of these fish may be dressed separately the same way. 529. Eels to stew, plain. Skin and cut two pounds of eels in lengths; put them on with two ounces of butter, half a pint of gravy or broth, half a nutmeg grated, and a handful of picked parsley, with pepper and salt to taste; simmer them a quarter of an hour; strain off the liquor, take off the fat, and thicken with a spoonful of butter and flour; a 128 COOKERY. boil five minutes; add the squeeze of half a lemon, and serve the eels in it. 530. Eels to collar. Bone a large eel, whole; lay it flat, and season with pepper and salt, a spoonful of pounded mace, and all- spice, together; a spoonful of chopped parsley, ditto of onion, and pounded thyme and marjoram; roll it up, beginning at the tail ; tie up in a cloth, put it into a stew-pan, with a quarter of a pint of vinegar, a pint of water, one whole onion, and two bay leaves ; let all boil gently one hour; when cold take off the cloth, and keep it in the liquor it was boiled in, adding a little salt. 531. Boiled Eel. See Boiling Fish, No. 512. If a middling sized eel, boil it quite round; run a skewer quite through the middle, to keep its shape; when done, serve an- chovy, (No. 90.) or parsley sauce. (No. 57.) 532. Pike to bake. Put a veal stuffing (No. 279.) in the inside ; turn it round with the tail in the mouth; egg and crumb it all over; put it into a dish with butter, and bake one hour and a half; when done, serve with brown sauce, (No. 43.) or caper sauce. (No. 73.) Note.-Haddock may be done the same way. 533. Pike to boil. Put a veal stuffing, as No. 279, inside; skewer it round, put it in boiling water, and boil (See Boiling, No. 512.) one hour; serve anchovy, (No. 90.) and parsley sauce, (No. 57.) with it. 534. Pike fried. Bone the pike; cut the fillets in thin pieces; dip them in egg and crumbs of bread; fry in hot fat; (See FISH. 129 No. 118.) serve anchovy (No. 90.) or lobster sauce. (No. 87.) Note.-Carp, tench, and trout are fried the same way. 535. Tench boiled in wine. Cover them with white wine; add one onion, a small bunch of sweet herbs, as No. 1; boil them ten minutes, strain off the liquor, and serve half a pint of white sauce (No. 45.) over them, quite hot; season with pep- per and salt, and the squeeze of half a lemon. 536. Herrings collared. Bone the herrings, sprinkle them with salt and pep- per, a spoonful of allspice, chopped onion and parsley; roll them up, and place them in a pan tight together; pour over them a sufficient quantity of sea-water and vinegar, mixed, to cover them; let them boil gently a quarter of an hour; keep them in the pickle, and serve hot or cold. They may be baked instead of boiled. Note.--If sea water cannot be had, spring water, with a handful of salt in it, will answer the purpose. Mackerel may be done the same way. 537. Herrings. Broiled, fried, and boiled the same as other fish. See under the different heads. 538. Herrings baked. Take twenty herrings, cut off the heads, and trim them neatly; place them in a dish in rows; sprinkle over pepper and salt, two spoonfuls of chopped onion, pars- ley, and thyme; add one pint of vinegar and a quart of water, mixed, with two bay leaves; cover them over, and bake one hour. They may be served hot or cold, and kept in the pickle. Note.-Mackerel may be done the same way. G 5 130. COOKERY. 1 539. Mackerel, Maitre d'Hotel. Split down the back, and take out the bone ; season with pepper and salt, pass off, as No. 47, a spoonful of chopped shalot; ditto of mushroom; ditto of fennel ; ditto of parsley; and pour over the mackerel; put the sides together again to look whole ; bake them in a dish half an hour ; and serve maitre d'hotel sauce (No. 104.) under them. 540. Mackerel Fillets. Bone the mackerel in two separate fillets; proceed the same as fillets of sole rolled up; (No. 523.) serve a piquante, (No. 77.) or fennel sauce (No. 58.) under. 541. Mackerel broiled in Paper. · Split mackerel down the back ; take out the bone; season with pepper and salt; rub a little butter over ; fold oiled paper over them, and broil ; serve fennel or parsley and butter. 542. Skate May be boiled whole or crimped, and dipped in egg and bread crumbs, or batter for frying ; (No. 266.) serye burnt butter sauce with it the French way, or an- chovy sauce. (No. 90.) 543. Red Mullet. Wash and clean the scales off them; put them in paper cases, with butter rubbed over them, without taking the inside out; bake twenty minutes ; when done take the liver out, and mix it with an equal quan- tity of melted butter ; this serves for sauce. Note.This fish is called the sea woodcock. 544. Lobster hot. When boiled take out the tail and claws whole; serve mustard sauce over them, hot. Note.Crabs and prawns may be done the same way. FISH. 131 545. Oysters to scollop. Beard the oysters raw; put them in scollop shells, with a layer of crumbs of bread, pepper, and salt, and a layer of oysters; cover with crumbs, and bake ten minutes : serve them hot. Note-Cockles are done the same way. 546. Oysters scolloped, another way. Proceed as stewed oysters; (No. 547.) put them in scollop shells, and cover with fried crumbs of bread : serve hot. 547. Oysters to stew. Beard two dozen of raw oysters ; add two ounces of butter ; a spoonful of flour, pepper, and salt; add the liquor of the oyster; let them stew gently ten minutes : serve in a dish with sippets. Note.-Cockles are done the same way. 548. Fried Oysters. Blanch two dozen large oysters; take off the beards; put them on a small skewer; season with pepper and salt; dip them in egg and bread crumbs, and fry in hot lard. 549. Cockles. Wash and boil cockles without water; when done pick them out, and proceed as directed, Nos. 545 and 547 Note_Muscles are done the same way. 550. Sturgeon, baked. Lay a piece in a marinate, as No. 134, six hours; bake it two hours; strain off the marinate sauce, and thicken with thickening ; (No. 42.) glaze, and serve under it ; or caper sauce (No. 73.) may be served in- stead, 132 COOKERY. 551. Fish Pudding. Take two pounds of fish of any kind, which have been boiled; season with salt and pepper, a spoonful of chopped onion, parsley, and mushroom; line a mould with slices of fat bacon; pound the fish with two whole eggs; lay a layer of fish, a layer of forcemeat (No. 183.) in the mould; cover it over with fat bacon, and bake it one hour and a half; when done, put half a pint of plain brown sauce over it, as No. 43. 552. Fish Pudding, another way. Pound two pounds of any sort of dressed fish; add pepper and salt; and one spoonful of chopped parsley ; ditto of mushroom ; two shalots; four ounces of crumbs of bread ; five whole eggs; mix and put in a mould lined with slices of fat bacon : bake it one hour. 553. Potted Chars. Pour butter melted to cover them in a flat pan; add pounded mace, pepper, and salt; bake them till done; strain off the butter, and pour it free from sediment over them to cover, Note.-Eels and lampreys may be done the same way. 554. Potted Lobster. Boil the lobster; pick out the tails and claws; put them in sufficient melted butter to cover ; season with salt, pepper, and mace; bake them one hour ; strain the butter off ; pound the lobster, with enough of the butter they were baked in to make it into a paste ; put it in pots, with the remainder of the butter clari- fied over them. Note.-Shrimps are done the same way. 555. Potted Wheatears. Pick a dozen ; put them in a pot just large enough FISH. 133 to hold them ; season the insides with a spoonful of pepper, salt, and mace; fill up the pot with melted butter to cover; bake them half an hour ; cover them over when cold with clarified butter, and tie over bladder. Note.-Larks may be done the same way. a 556. Oysters for Patties. Cut two dozen of oysters in pieces; proceed the same as stewed oysters; (No. 547.) add two spoonfuls of cream ; heat all together, and put in patties, as No. 338. 557. Lobster for Patties. Pound the inside spawn of one lobster, with one ounce of butter; cut the lobster in small pieces; add to it half a pint of white sauce, (No. 45.) or melted butter, to make it of a thick consistence; season with a spoonful of anchovy essence, Cayenne pepper, and lemon-juice, and put in the patties. 558. Shrimp Patties. Half a pint of picked shrimps put in a quarter of a pint of white sauce, (No. 45.) or thick melted butter; season with salt and pepper, and the squeeze of half a lemon, and put in the patties. 559. Fish Patties. Cut any sort of dressed fish in small dice; put them in sufficient white or brown sauce, (Nos. 45 or 43.) to make them thick; season with anchovy essence, Cayenne pepper, and salt, and fill in the patties. 560. Vol-au-Vent of Fish. Put slices of dressed turbot, salmon or cod, free from the skin, in white sauce, (No. 45.) sufficient to 134 COOKERY. cover them; add a few forcemeat balls ; (No. 183.) blanch as No. 3; if for brown, add brown sauce, (No. 43.) with a few mushrooms. 561. Wasser Sauche, Dutch. Take six small founders, six eels, and six perch, put them in two quarts of thin broth to cover, with two handfuls of parsley, picked from the stalks ; boil and cut six roots of Hamburgh parsley, tender, and put in with them ; when the fish are done serve all to- gether in a tureen, with plenty of bread and butter, cut. Note.-Any fresh water fish may be done separately, this way. 562. Pickled Oysters. Boil four dozen of large oysters in their own liquor ; take off the beard; put the oysters in a jar or bottle; fill it up with half the liquor the oysters were boiled in, and the same quantity of distilled vinegar, seasoned with Cayenne pepper and salt, and three blades of mace; tie over with bladder. 563. Cray Fish boiled. Boil them in the shells in equal quantities of wine and vinegar, one whole onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, as No. 1, and three bay leaves, ten minutes ; serve in a napkin, either hot or cold. 564. Dried Herrings for broiling. Clean and salt them well over for two days; dip them in the pyroligneous acid ; (No. 592.) hang them up to dry in a dry place. Note. These herrings are preferable to the smoked, as they are not so much salted, and will taste as if smoked. If wanted to keep more than a week, dip them three or four times in the acid at three days in- terval. TURTLE. 135 565. Salmon smoked. Wash, split the back; take out the bone of a large salmon, salt it well with bay salt a week; hang it up to dry in a smoky house for eight days; keep it in a dry place. 566. Smoked Salmon to dress. Cut the smoked salmon in thin slices, and put in paper cases ; broil over a gentle fire; or it may be baked in the oven instead of broiled. Note.-There are several other ways of dressing sea and fresh water fish, but they are seldom used ; those I have given embrace all that are useful or in request. 567. To dress a Turtle for Soup. Hang the turtle up to drain when the head is off ; cut the fins out close to the shell; take off the under shell, called the callipee, and separate the flesh from the entrails ; take six inches off the upper shell, all round, called the callipash; scald the shells, fins, and head in boiling water half a minute ; skin them; put the fins, head, and shells in one pan, and the meat part separate in another; cover each over with good beef broth, with a bunch of sweet herbs,* three onions, a spoonful of allspice in each ; let them boil till tender: the flesh part will no take more than one hour and a half, the fins the same time; but the shells must boil till quite tender; strain off the liquor; take the bones out of the shells and meat while hot; when cold cut it in small pieces; take two pounds of butter in a large stew-pan, with six chopped onions, two spoon- fuls of marjoram, ditto sweet basil, ditto parsley, ditto mushrooms, ditto thyme, in powder ; pass it off, as No. 47, with one pound of flour, a spoonful of mace and allspice together, in powder ; pepper and salt, * Turtle herbs consist of parsley, marjoram, thyme, basil, and sage, with two bay leaves, tied in a bunch. 136 COOKERY. and the rind of a lemon; put all the liquor that was strained, by degrees, to it, and a tea-cupful of ketchup, with one tea-spoonful of Cayenne pepper; boil together half an hour, and strain through a tammy sieve ; put the turtle that was cut in pieces in this soup, and add forcemeat balls, (No. 183.) and egg balls, (No. 185.) with a pottle of mushrooms, boiled in gravy, and one dozen of morels. The upper part of the shell is often mistaken for green fat, but a small portion of that article is found in the inside of the turtle, and must be taken care of and boiled only in the soup. Some use the entrails and liver, cut in pieces, but it is of no use, and only gives the turtle a bad flavour. I have given the proportion of ingredients used for a turtle of thirty pounds weight; if larger, there must be more of them in porportion. Note.When wanted for use, in heating three quarts, add half a pint of sherry or Madeira to it, as it would spoil and turn sour if the wine was put to it all together. It is best to keep it in fat dishes, in small quantities. 568. Turtle Fins in Sauce. Save the fins whole, after having been stewed ten- der, as No. 567; pour over them a pint of the turtle sauce, as No. 567, or serve a pint of bechamel sauce, (No. 45.) with a glass of white wine boiled in it; and season with Cayenne pepper and salt, and the squeeze of half a lemon. 569. Fricandeau of Turtle. Lard the inside shoulder fillet of the raw turtle, with fat bacon; braize it, as No. 119, for one hour; glaze, as No. 120; and serve mushroom, piquante, or sorrel sauce under it. 570. Turtle Patties. Cut one pound of the meat part fine; when done, TURTLE. 137 pass off, as No. 47, a spoonful of marjoram, thyme, and basil, in powder, and four shalots chopped, all together; put to it half a pint of brown sauce; (No. 43.) season with salt and pepper, and the squeeze of half a lemon; warm the turtle in it, and fill in the patties. 571. Turtle Vol-au-Vent. Take the shell part, cut in large slices, and some of the meat, when boiled tender, sufficient to fill a vol-au- vent, as No. 312; add one dozen of forcemeat balls; (No. 183.) put in a pint of turtle sauce, (No. 567.) and serve hot in the paste. 572. Turtle Pie. Cut the meat off the shoulder, in thin slices, raw; season with pepper and salt, a spoonful of chopped onion, parsley, and thyme, together; one drachm of mace and allspice; put it in a dish, with a few slices of fat bacon between; cover it with puff paste ; (No. 329.) bake one hour and a half; when done pourin half a pint of brown sauce, (No. 43.) quite hot. 573. To keep Turtle some time. When the turtle is prepared, as directed No. 567, put it in jars, pour boiling hog's lard on it to cover, with a handful of peppercorns in each jar; let the tur- tle get hot in it for ten minutes, in the oven ; when cold tie it over with bladders, and keep it in a cool place; when wanted heat the jars in boiling water; strain the turtle and wash it; make a mock turtle sauce, as No. 27; cut the turtle in small pieces and Note.—A very excellent prepared turtle, in jars, may be had of Morrison, Mansion--house-court, or Mr. Hill, Italian warehouse, 63, Piccadilly. put it in. 574. Hams to cure. To a ham of twenty-four pounds weight take one SALTING, &c. 139 579. Hamburgh Pickle, For keeping meat in summer. Take sixteen quarts of water, ten pounds of common salt, six ounces of saltpetre, half a pound of brown sugar; boil together, , and skim it; when cold cover the meat with it ; after three weeks boil and skim, adding three pounds more salt, and two ounces of saltpetre; after the same time boil it again : it will keep three months. Note.-A joint of meat dipped in this may be hung some time before it spoils. 580. To preserve Venison or Meat in Summer. Wipe it well with a cloth ; wash it all over with the pyroligneous acid; (No. 592.) wet a cloth with it, and wrap it round the meat; let it hang with it; re- peat the wetting of the cloth every day, and hang it in a cool place for the air to pass; it will keep three weeks, and the flies will not touch it. 581. Rump Steaks to keep. Cut the rump steaks thick ; wet them all over with the pyroligneous acid; (No. 592.) put them on a dish, turn them every day : they will keep good three weeks. 582. Ballachong. (Indian.) Take a pint of picked shrimps, a pint of sour apples, chopped, mix them in a stew-pan to dry a little over the fire; take two pounds of butter, two cloves of garlic, and one onion, chopped; pepper and salt a spoonful of curry powder and Cayenne, mixed; fry the onions and garlic in the butter; add the other ingre- dients, and fry all together; put it in a jar, and cover close : when wanted, fry it in small quantities dipped in batter, (No. 266.) or put in paste. 583. A Liquor to preserve Eggs in, to keep two years. Take one bushel of quick lime, two pounds of salt, 140 COOKERY. eight ounces of cream of tartar; mix it with as much water as will make the composition that consistence to bear, an egg ; put the eggs in a tub or vessel, and pour this liquid over to cover March is the best time to do them. Note.-Eggs dipped in a solution of gum water, and kept in charcoal powder, is recommended by some persons, 1 584. Herbs to dry for kitchen use. The herbs which are generally kept dry, are mint, knotted marjoram, thyme, sweet basil, and sage ; gather them when ripe, and put in a cool oven, screen, or drying stove ; dry them quickly, but not burn; when dry rub the leaves off the stalks, pound, sift, and keep them in bottles well corked. Note. They are much better than being dried in the sun. 585. Onions to keep from growing out. Scald the tops that are left on them for two minutes in boiling water; dry them, and keep for use. 586. Fruit to bottle. Any kind of fruit as under mentioned may be bottled to keep, by being put in dry bottles, and well corked with sound corks, and tied over, then boiled or steamed in a copper, with hay between them, half an hour, and suffered to cool in the copper before taken out; when cold, rosin them, and place them with the cork downwards in sand. 587. Pease to bottle. Bottle young blue Prussian pease; cork and tie them Mulberries, gooseberries, raspberries, currants, apricots, poaches, rhubarb, cherries, green gage, and damsons, PICKLING. 141 over, and boil half an hour; let them get cold in the copper; rosin the corks over, and keep in a cool place. 588. Green Pease to dry. To a quart of young pease put one ounce of sugar; put them in a pan over a gentle fire, stiring them till the liquor draws out; strain on a sieve, and dry in a screen or slow oven ; put in bottles, cork, and rosin down. Note.-When wanted for use soak for six or eight hours in water; boil them in the same with a sprig of mint; and if for stewing, add one onion ; thicken with flour and butter, and a spoonful of cream. 589. Potatoe Balls. Mash twelve boiled potatoes ; add a quarter of a pint of cream and two ounces of butter, with four shalots chopped fine, with pepper and salt ; mix it well together, and make it up in balls, and wash over with yolks of egg; put them under the meat while roast- ing to get brown. 590. Mustard to make. Boil six heads of garlic in a pint of water, with four ounces of salt, ten minutes ; strain it when cold ; mix it up with the best mustard in a thin paste; bottle, and cork it. 591. Caviare. To be served on a dish, and may be eaten with any sort of roasted meat; or sometimes with cheese, ac- cording to taste: toasted bread to be served with it. PICKLING. 592. Pyroligneous Acid, or crystal Vinegar. This admirable vinegar is preferable for all the pur- poses of pickling, preserving meats, game, fish, &c. PICKLING. 143 days; have an equal quantity of vinegar and water; heat it in brass or copper pans, to almost boiling, then put the gherkins in, and let them just come to a boil; put them all together in a pan, and when cold drain the vinegar and water off, and put them in jars, with cold crystal vinegar to cover, with ginger, all- spice, and mace. If not sufficiently green in the first heating, do them a second time. Note.-French beans, nasturtion buds, and any green pickles, to be done the same way. 597. Mangoes to pickle. Cut a square piece out of the side, scoop out the insides, let them lay in strong salt and water brine, four or five days; fill them with mustard seed, heads of garlic, Cayenne pepper, and allspice; tie the piece on again, and green them as gberkins, (No. 596.) and proceed the same. Note.-Cucumber and melon mangoes done the same way. 598. Indian Pickle. Take one hard white cabbage, two cauliflowers, one stick of horseradish, cut in slices, two dozen of small nions, a dozen heads of garlic, put them in boiling salt brine twelve hours; mix a sufficient quantity of vinegar to cover them, with three spoonfuls of tur- merick, two spoonfuls of mustard, in powder, one of Cayenne pepper, two of allspice and whole pepper, and three blades of ginger, cut; add the ingredients all together: cucumbers in slices, gherkins, French beans, capsicums that have been pickled, are to be added in equal quantities. Note.--It is always necessary to pickle the green ar- ticles by themselves, as they do not get a good colour in the cabbage pickle. CAKES AND BISCUITS. 145 605. Capsicums to pickle. Lay green capsicums, for three days, in a strong brine of salt and water, strong enough to bear an egg; strain and dry in a cloth; put in jars, with mace and allspice; fill up with cold vinegar, and tie over. Note.-Red capsicums may be put in the jars, per- fectly dry, and filled up with cold vinegar and spice as the green. 606. Savoy Cake, to turn out of mould. Take ten eggs, one pound of sugar, three quarters of a pound of flour, the peel of one lemon, grated, two drops of essence of lemon; separate, and whisk up the whites to bear an egg; stir the yolks and sugar to- gether well, and mix the whites with them; then stir the flour in gently, and put in the mould, well papered round the outside, in a moderate oven for one hour and a quarter. Note.-The mould should be buttered with clarified butter, half cold, with a brush; put some fine sifted sugar all over it after being buttered. To try when the cake is done, stick a piece of dry whisk in the middle of it, if it comes out quite dry it is done; if the least sticky, it wants more baking. 607. Light Sponge Cake. Take one pound of sugar, three quarters of a pound of flour, sixteen eggs, leaving out the whites of five, when separated, the juice and rind of one lemon, grated, two drops of essence of bergamot; mix the same as Savoy cake. (No. 606.) 608. Palais Royal Biscuits. Take one pound of eggs, one pound of sugar, half a pound of flour; separate the eggs; whisk up the whites strong enough to bear an egg; stir the yolks in the whites, whisked, then the sugar, the rind of one lemon, H 146 COOKERY. grated, two drops of the essence of bergamot, and lastly, the flour, very gently; put them in square tin- cases, buttered; sift sugar over them, and bake in a quick oven. 609. Sponge Biscuits. Take one pound of eggs, one pound of sugar, ten ounces of four; break, and whisk the eggs and the sugar, with the rind of one lemon, grated, together, in a pan near the fire, till the mixture gets warm, but not hot; then whisk it till cold; stir the flour in gently, and fill it in small square tin moulds, or paper cases; sift sugar over, and bake ten minutes. Note.-A couple of drops of essence of lemon may be added, if agreeable. 610. Savoy Biscuits, Make the same mixture, as for palais royal ; (No. 608.) lay them out on paper, in the shape of a figure of eight, with a funnel ; sift sugar over them, and bake in a quick oven; eut them off the papers and join them together. 611, Judges' Biscuits, Nine eggs, one pound of sugar, one pound of flour ; proceed the same as sponge biscuits; (No. 609.) add one spoonful of carraway seeds; lay them out round on paper, with a funnel; sift sugar over, and bake in a quick oven. 612. Rusks. Make the mixture, as for sponge; (No. 609.) add a spoonful of carraway seeds, and bake it in a square paper or tin; when cold cut in thin slices, and dry in a cool oven, 613. Italian Biscuits. Make the same paste as judges' biscuits; (No. 611.) CAKES AND PASTRY. 149 it well till it becomes quite white, and will just drop off the spoon. Note.-This iceing is used for plumb cakes and bis- cuits, and will dry gently in a stove or warm place. 622. Macaroons. Mix one pound of blanched almonds, finely pounded, with the whites of three eggs; add one pound of sugar, a glass of water, a spoonful of flour, and the whites of three eggs; make into a paste, and lay in oval pieces on wafer paper; sift sugar over, and bake them quickly. They should be moist when baked. 623. French Macaroons. One pound of dry almonds pounded with three whites of eggs ; add two pounds of sugar, and mix it in a paste, with four whites of eggs more; lay them out on wafer paper, round, and stick slices of almonds in them; sift sugar over, and bake in a cool oven till quite crisp. 624. Ratafia Biscuits. Pound one pound of bitter and one pound of sweet almonds fine, with six whites of eggs; add four pounds of sugar, and mix up with six more whites of eggs in a stiff paste ; lay them out in the size of a nut on paper; bake in a slow oven. 625. Nut Biscuits. Pound one pound of Barcelona nuts with three whites of eggs; add one pound and a half of sugar, and mix up in a thick paste, with three whites of eggs; lay them out small as ratafias, on paper ; bake in a cool oven. 626. White Almond Paste for Rout Cakes. Pound one pound of dry almonds without oiling, 150 COOKERY. with the whites of three eggs ; add one pound of sugar, and one ounce of flour to it; make in a stiff paste. Note.--This may be rolled or cut in any shape, or forced through a syringe, and made in any form; it may be garnished with dried cherries, candied citron, orange or lemon peel, and green angelica : as there are many forms and different names, according to fancy, it is useless to enumerate them. Observe, that all almond biscuits baked without wafer paper, should have sifted sugar or flour under them when baked on the paper. 627. Yellow Almond Paste for Rout Cakes. Pound one pound of dry almonds, with six yolks of eggs, fine; mix one pound of sugar and one ounce of flour with it in a stiff paste. Note.—This paste is used the same as white almond paste, and may be cut in any shape. 628. Walnut Biscuits. Cut the shell of the walnut out of a gum pasteboard; fill with white almond paste; (No. 626.) bake it brown; the kernel cut out the same way, made of yellow paste, (No. 627.) and baked very slightly; when done join them together with a little white of egg, and dry them. 629. Moss Biscuits, Rub the yellow almond paste (No. 627.) through a wire sieve ; put it in small lumps carefully to bake on wafer paper ; tinge the ends of it with prepared cochi- neal (No 673.) with a brush; bake them gently in a cool oven. 630. Rock Biscuits. Cut one pound of almonds, just blanched, in thin slices; dry them; take two whites of eggs, four ounces of sugar; boil it together two minutes ; add CAKES AND BISCUITS. 151 the almonds with one grated lemon, and make in a stiff paste ; lay them out in small lumps on wafer paper, and bake in a cool oven. 631. Red Rock Biscuits. Proceed the same as No. 630; add cochineal (No. 673.) to colour them red, and bake in a very cool oven. 632. Rose Sugar Biscuits. Mix two whites of eggs, with fine sifted sugar and a tea-spoonful of essence of roses, in a stiff paste; make it in round balls the size of a marble ; put them on paper, and bake in a cool oven; wet the paper at the back to get them off. Note.- They may be coloured with cochineal, or any prepared colour, and are meant principally to garnish cakes or pastry. Lemon, orange, cinnamon, and orange-flower bis- cuits, are done the same way. 633. Almond Paste for small Biscuits. - One pound of almonds pounded with four whole eggs ; add one pound of sugar, one ounce of flour; mix in a paste. Note.-This paste may be spread on wafer paper; coarse pounded sugar the size of a pea, or candied citron, orange, or lemon-peel, may be put over ; cut in any shape, and bake. 634. Almond Roche. Chop a quarter of a pound of candied orange-peel, one ounce of citron, two ounces of lemon-peel, half a pound of almonds ; add two ounces of flour, half a pound of sugar, a spoonful of mace and cinnamon and the ites of three eggs ; make it in a stiff paste ; roll it up in balls, and bake them on wafer paper in a middling oven. 152 COOKERY. 635. Raspberry Biscuits. Roll out white almond paste, (No. 626.) very thin, spread it over with raspberry jam, cover it again with almond paste ; spread sugar iceing, (No. 621.) on it; cut it in squares or lozenges, and bake in a cool oven. 636. Cherry Biscuits. Roll almond paste (No. 627.) the size of a nutmeg ; put a dried cherry in the middle of each, flatten down ; cover the cherry down with iceing, (No. 621.) and bake in a cool oven. 637. Plain Biscuits. Mix one pound of flour in very stiff dough, with cream or milk; roll them out as thin as paper ; prick them all over, and bake in a quick oven. 638. Oliver Biscuits. Two pounds of flour, one spoonful of yeast, a quar- ter of a pint of warm milk; mix it in one pound of flour, and let it rise; put a quarter of a pound of but- ter, a quarter of a pint of milk, to make the remainder of the flour in a dough ; work it all together; let it stand one hour to rise; roll it out in thin cakes, and prick them; bake in a slow oven. 639. A rich Plum Cake. Take three pounds and a half of butter, one pound and a quarter of sugar, two pounds and a half of flour, one pound of candied orange and lemon-peel, a quar- ter of a pound of citron, four pounds of currants, thirty eggs, two lemon-peels grated, a spoonful of mace, ditto of cinnamon, ditto of nutmeg, four ounces of sliced al- monds, a quarter of a pint of brandy; melt and rub the butter to a cream ; work in the sugar and eggs by de- grees; put in the spice and brandy, and mix the flour and sweetmeats in gently; put it in a hoop, papered, 154 COOKERY. a quarter of sugar, one pound and a half of flour, half a pound of currants, one lemon-peel, grated, a spoon- ful of cinnamon and mace; mix the same as rich cake, (No. 639.) and bake in small round tins ten minutes. Note. -Queen drops are made of this mixture dropped on wafer paper, baked in a quick oven. 645, Yeast Cake. Flour, two pounds and a half; sugar, half a pound; butter, ten ounces; currants, four pounds; set sponge, with half of the flour, three spoonfuls of yeast, in a pint of milk; work the butter and sugar in the other half of flour, with half a pint of milk; add the other ingredients, and mix all together; bake it in a hoop or tin three hours. 646. Meringues. Whisk up three whites of eggs, stiff, to bear an egg; stir in gently five spoonfuls of fine sifted sugar, and the peel of one lemon, grated; lay them out, the shape of half an egg, on paper; bake them on a board in a slow oven ; take out the inside, and put jelly or jam in it, and stick them together. 647. Queen's Gingerbread. Two pounds of honey, one pound and three quar- ters of sugar, two pounds and three quarters of four, half a pound of almonds, chopped fine, half a pound of candied orange, half a pound of lemon-peel, chopped fine, one ounce of cinnamon, a quarter of an ounce of mace, a quarter of an ounce of cardamoms, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, in powder, a quarter of an ounce of nutmeg, grated; melt the honey and one glass of water, with the sugar, together; add it to the other in- gredients, and make it in a stiff paste, roll it out thin, and cut it in square pieces the size of a card; when baked wash it over with clarified sugar. (No. 675.) 158 COOKERY. 663. Yorkshire Cakes. Mix one pound of flour, two spoonfuls of yeast, one egg, three ounces of butter rubbed in, and warm milk sufficient to make it in a light dough; this must be mixed all together, and set to rise three quarters of an hour, then made in round cakes, laid on a tin in a warm place to rise; when risen bake in a moderate oven, and wash them over with milk and sugar mixed. 664. Balloon Cakes. Mix two spoonfuls of yeast with four of cream; add it to six of flour, make it in a dough, set it to rise in a warm place, roll it very thin, and cut with a round cut- ter; bake on tins four minutes. 1 665. Breakfast Buns. Take one pound and a half of flour, set sponge with two spoonfuls of yeast, half a pint of warm milk, with half the flour; when risen, add to it a quarter of a pound of sugar, with two ounces of butter, melted, with the other part of the flour, and a quarter of a pint more milk, to make it all a light dough; make them up in round cakes, and lay them on tins to rise, in a warm place; when risen bake them a quarter of an hour, and wash over with milk and sugar, mixed. Note.-A few currants may be added, if preferred. 666. Plum Buns. Make the same dough as for Oliver biscuits; (No. 638.) add a quarter of a pound of sugar, half a pound of currants, and two eggs to it; make it in round cakes, let it rise in a warm place, bake a quarter of an hour, and wash over with sugar and milk. 667. Brioche, or Bath Buns. Take one pound and a quarter of flour; set sponge, with half a pint of milk, and two spoonfuls of yeast; CAKES AND BISCUITS. 159 when risen add half a pound of butter, melted, half a pound of sugar, and four eggs; mix it in a paste, lay it on tins rough, sprinkle Scotch carraways over, and bake a quarter of an hour. 668. Dutch Rusks. Three pounds of flour, half a pound of butter, a quar- ter of a pound of sugar; mix half a pint of new milk with a quarter of a pint of yeast; rub the flour, sugar, and butter together; set sponge with the milk; when risen work up the dough, make it in small balls, bake on tins in a moderate oven a quarter of an hour; next day cut them in two, and dry them in the oven. 669. Cringles. Rub a quarter of a pound of butter in one pound of four, two ounces of sugar; set sponge with half the flour, two spoonfuls of yeast, and a quarter of a pint of milk; when risen add the other to it, with two eggs, and a quarter of a pint more milk, to make it in a light dough; roll it out the thickness of your finger, make it in the shape of a figure of eight, let it rise on the tins before baking; when baked, wash them over with milk and sugar, mixed. 670. German Rolls. Take half a peck of the finest flour, and as much new milk as will wet the above into a dough; mix it with half a pint of yeast, half an ounce of fine sugar, and set sponge; when risen, add one ounce of butter, melted, with two eggs, work it together, and make it in rolls'; let them rise in a warm place, bake in but- tered tins, in a brisk oven, twenty minutes. 671. Crumpets. Take one pound and a half of four, three pints of milk, two spoonfuls of yeast, two fresh eggs; mix the 160 CONFECTIONARY. milk just warm with it, beat it in a batter, let it stand till it rises in bladders to the top; bake them on a po- lished iron, with tin rims. CONFECTIONARY. As cooking and confectionary are so combined that each art leads to the other, and it being requisite and most convenient to have them united in one book ; I have endeavoured to give the necessary instructions as plain and concisely as possible, for the assistance of those who have not had the opportunity of acquiring them. The great difficulty, in general, in the art of con- fectionary, arises from the want of knowledge in preparing of, and boiling, sugar and syrups. As the descriptions are very complex to those who are not well versed in the terms and degrees of boiling, I have simplified and compressed them into a small compass, so as to be immediately comprehended. The directions given ought to be carefully attended to, much depend- ing on the execution of them with exactness, as fre- quently the article is spoiled and irrevocably lost by inattention. 672. Drying Stove. The most useful appendage in confectionary is a drying stove, as almost every article in preserving, candying, drops, and comfit making, requires the help of it; and as it is very easily made, the still-room ought never to be without one. I have given a drawing in Plate, No. 6, to assist the making of it in the most simple way. The common closet, made with iron bars, to reach across as shelves, and tinned in the inside, will answer the purpose, provided it shuts to keep in the hot air; 162 CONFECTIONARY. height : take it off the fire immediately, and stand it in a pan of cold water for half a minute; if it boil longer it will be burnt and spoiled. If it is boiled enough, the sugar will not stick to the teeth when put between them, 675. Clarified Sugar, or Syrup. Break six pounds of sugar in small pieces; whisk up half the white of an egg in three pints of water, pour it over the sugar; put it over the fire, and when dis- solved, and just going to boil, put in a quarter of a pint of cold water; let it stand a few seconds, skim it, and boil till the skum is all taken off. This syrup is con- stantly wanted in confectionary, especially for ices, preserving, comfit making, and cool drinks. 676. Caromel Sugar, for sticking baskets or pastry up, and for making covers. Rub the sides of a caromel-pan round with butter; put a quart of clarified sugar, (No. 675.) boil it ten minutes; add a table spoonful of white distilled vine- gar, boil it down to caromel, as directed No. 674; when done, stand the pan within another, with cold water to keep it from colouring. The mould must be oiled well over; when the sugar is a little cool, and runs off the spoon as a thread, draw it over the mould what pattern you please; take care to have a good rim round the bottom of the mould to stand on; when done, warm the mould a little, and the cover will slip off; it may be done inside the mould, and ornamented with any dry sweetmeats, comfits, or gum paste flowers. Note.—This sugаr may be kept in a pan, when done with, and is ready on all occasions, as it will heat again repeatedly, and will serve to stick all kinds of pastry up. 677. Lemon Barley Sugar. Boil one pint of syrup (No. 675.) to a caromel; 164 CONFECTIONARY. stead of the cochineal in the last boiling, they will then become brown; or the cinnamon may be left out, and only covered with the second sugar. 681. Orange Prawlings. Cut the peel of four china oranges in small lengths, the size of pins; boil half a pint of sugar to a blow, as No. 674; put in the peels and boil to a blow again; strain the sugar off, rub them in fine sifted sugar, and dry them in the drying stove for a few hours. Note.-Lemon prawlings are done the same way. 682. Orange Flower Prawlings. Pick half a pint of fresh orange flowers off the stalks and buds; boil a pint of syrup to a blow, as No. 674; boil the flowers to a blow again in it, strain them off, rub them in fine sifted sugar, and dry in a drying stove till crisp. SYRUPS OF FRUIT. 683. Orange Syrup. To a quart of orange-juice, strained, add five pounds of pounded loaf-sugar, stirring it till quite dissolved; then bottle and rosin the corks over, and keep in a cool place. Note.-Lemon syrup is done the same way. 684. Grape or Muscatel Syrup. To one quart of clarified sugar (No. 675.) put in three handfuls of picked fresh elder flowers, the juice of two lemons; let it boil together briskly a quarter of an hour; when cold, bottle, cork, and tie it down. 685. Mulberry Syrup. Boil a quart of syrup (No. 675.) down to a blow, as SYRUPS OF FRUIT. 165 No. 574; add a pint and a half of mulberry-juice to it; boil it ten minutes. 686. Orgeat Syrup. Blanch two pounds of sweet and a quarter of a pound of bitter almonds, pounded fine, with water; strain it through a tammy, and add four pounds of treble-refined sugar to the liquid; boil it together, with a quarter of a pint of orange-flower water, ten minutes, and skim; when cold, bottle, and wax the cork over. 687. Capillaire. Put half a pint of orange-flower water to two quarts of clarified sugar, (No. 675.) boil it fifteen minutes; when cold, bottle, and wax the cork over. 688. Raspberry Vinegar. Mash two quarts of raspberries, let them stand in a pan to get sour, strain the juice through a sieve, and to every pint put a pound of loaf-sugar, and a pint of the pyroligneous acid; (No. 592.) let it boil ten mi- nutes, skim, and when cold, bottle, and seal the corks. 689. Balsam of Honey Syrup. To one pound of honey add a tea-cupful of vinegar; boil and skim it well; when cold, stir in one ounce of the elixir of paregoric, and bottle: if half a pint of the essence of malt is added, it will make it more complete. A table-spoonful to be taken three times a day for a cough. 690. Rock Candy. Have some shallow square tins, two inches deep, made to hold a quart of clarified sugar; boil the sugar to a blow, as No. 674; fill the pans with it, and put over it, while hot, picked corn flowers, stocks, or jon- quils, to cover; put in a very hot stove, of one hundred and twenty degrees heat; let it stand three days; when hard at top, break a small hole in the candy, set it to 166 CONFECTIONARY. drain one day; break the candy out of the tins; when wanted, place one piece on the other of different co- lours, sticking it together with a little thick gum-arabic water, and dry them. Note. Or it can be made without the flowers, and will be perfectly white. 691. Paste Candy, Cut apple paste (No. 740.) in shapes, dry it very hard, put it in a candy-pan, with a cock to it, and wires to fit the inside; put a layer of paste on each wire till the pan is full, and press it down at top; boil the syrup, as directed No. 675, to a small blow, as No. 674, and cover it over; put it in the stove, at one hun- dred and twenty degrees of heat; let it stand two days, draw off the sugar by the cock; add a little more to it, and boil it to the same degree; let it stand the same time; repeat this three times, drain it very dry, and take it out of the pan. Note. In this way may be candied any hard sub- stance perfectly dry, as gum paste, dried sweetmeats, &c. Care must be taken to keep it constantly hot in the stove. 692. Candy for cast Figures. Boil two quarts of clarified sugar (No. 675.) to a strong blow, as No. 674; grain it (which is turning it white) by rubbing it against the sides of the pan; when white and the thickness of cream, pour it in leaden moulds, well oiled, in a liquid state; put them in the stove till perfectly dry. 693. Rock Sugar. Take a quart of clarified sugar, (No. 675.) boil down to a crack, as No. 674; make an iceing of one white of egg, in sifted sugar, as No. 621; when the sugar is boiled, stir in a spoonful of iceing very quick in it; PRESERVED WET FRUITS. 167 when it rises turn it on a sieve, well sugared ; cover it with the pan till cold. Note. If you want it coloured, put the colour in while the sugar is boiling, before the iceing is added; cochineal, saffron, Prussian blue, ground fine in water; a spoonful is sufficient. 694. Nogar. Take half a pound of pounded sugar; put it in a stew-pan over a gentle fire without water; stir it, and when a light brown, add as many cut slices of dry al- monds as will make it in a thick paste ; turn it out in a mould, or on a marble slab, well oiled, and flatten with a rolling-pin, and cut in square pieces. Note. If the almonds are browned a little in the oven, before putting in the sugar, the nogar will be the better. PRESERVED WET FRUITS Are those which are kept in syrups, jellies, or brandy. 695. Red and White Currants in Bunches. Take eight pounds of currants, stoned, and tied in bunches; boil three quarts of syrup (No. 675.) to a crack, as No. 674 ; pour it over the currants in a flat , copper pan, and boil them gently all over; repeat this two or three times, and skim; make a jelly of one quart of syrup boiled to a crack, and one quart of apple jelly, as No. 696; add it to the currants, and boil them together five minutes, and put in pots. 696. Apple Jelly. Pare and core six pounds of green coddlings, or any juicy apples, cut them in pieces, and add one quart of water to them; boil them gently till quite mashed, stirring all the time; put this through a jelly bag. To PRESERVED WET FRUITS. 169 four places; put them in cold water, and let them just come to a boil and get tender, but not to burst; take them out of the water, and drain on a sieve five mi- nutes ; cover over with a cloth; put them in a glass, and fill up with white brandy, and pounded sugar-candy dissolved in it. Note.—The proportion of candy is a quarter of a pound to three prints of brandy. The noblesse peaches are done the same way. 701. Cherries in Brandy. Cut the stalks off fine morella cherries, put them in a glass three parts full, with one stick of cinnamon, and twelve cloves, a quarter of a pound of brown sugar- candy, to a quart of brown brandy; fill up the glass, and tie over. Note.-The sugar-candy to be put in with the cher- ries, in powder. 702. Greengages in Brandy. Take greengages, preserved as No. 713, out of the syrup; put them in a glass, and fill up with white brandy, and tie over. Note.-Peaches, nectarines, apricots, and pears, are done the same way. 703. Cherry Brandy. Pound eight pounds of morella cherries, (or black maroons) and stones together; put in a stone bottle, with six quarts of brandy, two pounds of sugar-candy, one stick of cinnamon, twelve cloves, one quart of water; let it stand six weeks in a warm place, and strain it through a jelly bag. 704. Raspberry Jam. Rub raspberries through a coarse sieve; to every pound of the pulp take one pound of loaf sugar ; boil it twenty-five minutes, constantly stirring; put it in pots while hot. Note.-Strawberry, mulberry, blackberry, currant, I 170 CONFECTIONARY. peach, plum, cranberry, and damson jams, are made the same way; if convenient to add a quart of apple jelly, (No. 696.) to six quarts of the jams when boiled, it gives them a solidity, and makes them more elegant. 705. Preserved Apricots. Cut unripe apricots in halves, with the skins on; boil them in water quite tender, and drain them dry : four dozen of apricots will take two quarts of syrup, (No. 675.) boiled to a blow, as No. 674; put them in, and boil gently two or three times ; then put in earthen pans; next day strain off the sugar, and add one quart more; boil it up; put the apricots in, and boil them up in it; take one quart of apple jelly, as directed No. 696 ; add and boil all together five minutes, and put in pots; or the apricots may be kept in the syrup in pans without the jelly, and be dried when wanted. See Drying. (No. 706.) Note,-- Peaches and nectarines are done the same way. 706. Apricots to dry. All the different sorts of preserved wet fruits may be dried, as they are better when dried fresh. The method is to drain the apricots out of their liquor; or if can- died, to add sufficient water to melt the sugar; when perfectly drained, cover with clarified sugar, (No. 675.) and boil them up in it; when cold, drain them on sieves, and place them regularly, so that they do not touch; dust them over with sugar out of a bag or fine sieve; when dry on one side turn them again on sieves, and repeat the dusting ; when dry keep them in boxes, with paper between. 707. Apricots dried with a little Sugar. Take ripe apricots; take the stone out at one end, leaving it whole; prick them all over with a knife; place them in a shallow stew-pan, but not over one PRESERVED WET FRUITS. 171 another; put a little clarified sugar to them, (No. 675.) but not to cover ; let them boil gently up; when cold, turn them in the stew-pan, and boil up again; let them be cold, and repeat it twice more; when they have stood twelve hours, drain and put them on tins, with a blanched kernel in each; dust over with powdered sugar, and let them dry in a stove; turn on a sieve next day, and let them dry hard : place them flat in boxes. Note.Peaches and nectarines are done the same way. 708. Whole Strawberries. Take two quarts of syrup; (No. 675.) boil to a strong blow as No. 674 ; put eight pounds of fine large strawberries in it, and boil them up gently all over, without breaking; repeat this three times, letting them stand a quarter of an hour between each boiling; put two quarts of apple jelly, (No. 696.) and boil it to- gether three times more : put in pots or glasses, hot. Note.-Raspberries and currants are done the same way. 709. Raspberry Jam for Cakes. Mash the raspberries, let the juice run out of them quite dry through a jelly bag ; take one pound and a quarter of sifted sugar to one pound of pulp; heat it quite het till it bubbles, but not to boil, and put it in pans. Note...When wanted for use take a small quantity, heat it well, and put as much sifted sugar as will make it in a stiff paste; spread it out in a tin ring, on cop- per or tin plates, and dust over with sifted sugar ; dry in the stove one day; take them off the plates, and dry on sieves. 710. Ripe Melons, yellou.. Boil the melon tender in slices; put it in jars, and pour syrup (No. 675.) over it; boil to a blow; add a I 2 172 CONFECTIONARY. good handful of ginger in blades ; let them stand two- days; strain the syrup off; and add a small quantity. of fresh sugar to it; boil it up, and pour over again; repeat this three times, and they are done. 711. Dried Cherries. Take eight pounds of Flemish cherries, stoned, three pints of syrup, (No. 675.) boil to a crack, as No. 674, boil the cherries in it gently, taking care not to burn them; boil them well up three times, allowing a quarter of an hour between each boiling; put them in pans twelve hours, drain, and add one quart of sugar to the syrup, and boil to a crack; when hot, boil the cherries in it three times as before ; next day drain, and put them on sieves in a hot drying stove, turn them on other sieves twice, after being dried a day, and let them dry quite hard; keep them in boxes. 712. Cherries whole. Boil eight pounds of cherries, as directed, No. 711; when done, drain off the syrup, and put them in two quarts of apple jelly, (No. 696.) boil them in it three times, and put in pots, hot. 713. Greengages to preserve. Take unripe greengages, quite hard, prick them all over well with a pin, and put in cold water sufficient to cover them well, and a spoonful of sugar; put them over the fire, stirring them gently; when near boiling they will float and become tender, which is a sign they are done enough; put them in a tub, with the liquor they were scalded in, for two days, to sour; drain them, and put in copper pans, well covered with vine or cab bage leaves; cover them over with an equal quantity of syrup (No. 675.) and water, mixed; heat them gently on the fire (hut not to boil) successively, till they be- come green; strain them off, and put in earthen pans; pour as much syrup, boiled to a little blow, (No. 674.) PRESERVED WET FRUITS. 173 as will cover them; next day drain, place them in the pans again, add more syrup to it, and boil to a blow, and cover over again; repeat this boiling once more next day; if wanted for pots, take as much apple jelly (No. 696.) as will cover, and boil them in it twice, and put them in; if wanted for brandy, strain them out of the syrup, and cover over with white brandy. Note - Green mogul plums are done the same way. 714. Green Gooseberries. Take the seed out of green gooseberries, by slitting them on one side; proceed the same as greengages ; (No. 713.) when preserved, put them in apple jelly, as directed, No. 696, and put in pots while hot. 715. Green Gooseberry Hops. Slit each gooseberry in six slips, but not to come asunder, take out the seed, put four gooseberries, so done, together, running a thread through them; pre- serve them green, the same as greengages, No. 713; take them out of the syrup, and dry as directed, No. 706. 716. Gooseberry Cheese. Mash two quarts of ripe red or green gooseberries, put one pound of fine sugar, sifted, to them; let them stand all night, and boil up next day; rub it through a sieve, and boil the pulp over a gentle fire twenty-five minutes, stirring it all the time; put it in pots or moulds. 717. Green Angelica. Boil it tender, in lengths, in water, then peel, and put it in a pan, covered over with clarified sugar; (No. 675.) next day drain, add a little more sugar to it, boil up, and pour over again, repeat this once more, and it is finished. - Note.-When wanted for drying, strain it, and cand. as orange-peel. (No. 733.) PRESERVED WET FRUITS. 175 or, if for brandy, drain out of the syrup, and cover with white brandy. 722. Red Quinces. Prick the quinces with a pointed knife, and scald them; pare them neatly; cut in halves, and take the core out; boil again quite tender, with three spoonfuls of cochineal; (No. 673.) and let them remain in the water till quite red; strain; put them in pans, and cover with syrup, (No. 675.) boil to a blow as No. 674., and boil them in it five minutes. Next day strain; boil the sugar up; place them in pans; pour it over, and let them stand three days ; if wanted for pots, put them in apple jelly, as No. 696 ; or if for drying, pro- ceed as No. 706. Note: -White quinces are done the same way, omit- ting the cochineal. 723. Pine Apple in Slices. Pare the outside off the pine; cut it in slices half an inch thick; lay a layer of pine apple, and a layer of sifted sugar alternately, in an earthen pan ; let it re- main in the stove three or four days, and put in a pre- serving pan with the juice of three lemons; and boil all together ten minutes, skimming it. Next day, repeat the boiling for ten minutes; and put in a pot. Note. If wanted for drying, proceed as No. 706. 724. Pine Apple Jam. Pare, cut, and pound a pine apple to a pulp; to a pint of pulp, put à pound of sifted sugar; boil it twenty five minutes ; and put in pots. 725. Pine Apple whole. Take off the top; prick it in six or eight places to the middle, with a pointed knife; boil it eight hours in plenty of water, till tender; put it in a jar, and cover 176 CONFECTIONARY. over with clarified sugar; (No. 675.) let it remain two days; drain, and add a little more sugar to the syrup; boil it up, skim, and put over the pine again ; repeat this three times more, stopping two days between each time, and the pine will be completely saturated with sugar. Note.-Be sure to keep the pine down under the sugar with a leaden cover. The pine top must be greened and preserved the same as greengages; (No. 713.) and stuck in the top of the pine when used. 726. Ginger, preserved. Soak the young roots of fresh ginger in water three or four days; boil it tender, and peel; put it in water with a little lemon-juice as it is done ; drain it; put it in a pan, covered with clarified sugar, (No. 675.) and boil it up ; let it stand two days, and repeat this boiling three times, leaving two days between each time; add the juice of two lemons the last time of boiling. 727. Cucumber to preserve. Prick them all over, and boil them tender; proceed as with greengages; (No. 713.) and finish the same, adding ginger in pieces to them. 728. Green Melons. Prick, and boil them tender; proceed as greengages; (No. 713.) when preserved, dry and candy them; as orange peel; (No. 733.) when candied they imitate green citron. They may be done either whole or in slices. 729. Green Apricots. Rub them well in salt to get the down off; boil them tender; green as greengages; (No. 713.) and finish the same. 178 CONFECTIONARY. they must boil again to a strong blow, as No. 674; rub the sugar, when a little cool, against the sides of the pan, to grain or turn it white; and stir the peels well in it; and drain on a wire sieve. When cold they will be candied, and must be put in the drying stove a few hours to get hard. Note. --- In this way all the chips, peels, and citron, are candied. The sugar will do again three or four times, by adding a little water. 734. Candied. Eringo Root. Peel and boil the roots quite soft; cover them over with clarified sugar; (No. 675.) after two days, drain; boil the sugar up well, and pour over them; repeat this twice more, and they are done. When wanted to candy, drain and proceed as candied orange peels; (No. 733.) twist the roots together to make them a good size, and dry them in a drying-stove. 735;. Quince Marmalade. Peel and cut in quarters, four pounds of golden ren- net apples, and four pounds of quinces ; add a pint of water and one pound of sifted sugar to them, boil- ing and stirring them to a mash; rub them through a hair-sieve, and add seven pounds of sifted sugar, and boil half an hour. (If wanted red, add a little pre- pared cochineal, No. 673. to it.) Put it in small pots; or it may be turned out of the pots, when hard enough, and dried on tins, with a little sugar dusted over, and turned on sieves. 736. Pomegranate Paste. Peel and core four pounds of golden rennet apples; boil them down to a mash, with half a pound of sugar and half a pint of water; rub through a hair-sieve, and add three pounds of sifted sugar, and boil twenty- five minutesy, stirring all the time; put in pots or tin PRESERVED WET FRUITS. 179 rims on plates ; dust over with sugar, and dry on sieves. 737. Orange Paste. Proceed the same as pomegranate paste, (No. 736.) adding four ounces of Seville orange peel, boiled ten- der, pounded and rubbed through a sieve and boiled with it. Note.Lemon Paste the same. 738. Orange Marmalade. Pick the insides out of the skins free from seeds; to every pound of this pulp add a pound of fine sifted sugar, and boil it twenty-five minutes; have some of the peels preserved, and chop them fine, or cut them in thin slips ; to every three pounds of marmalade add one pound of the chopped peel, boiled up in it just before putting in the pots. 739. Clear Cakes. Peel, core, and boil down four pounds of apples with one quart of water; put it through the jelly-bag ; to every quart of juice take two pounds of loaf sugar; dissolve it in the jelly thoroughly; heat it well, but not to boil; put it in flat pots in the drying-stove. When it begins to crust, turn it out, cut it in squares, put them on sieves, dusted over with sugar, to dry; when dry turn them on the other side, and repeat the dusting Note.-If the stove is too hot, they will melt in- stead of dry. They may be coloured red with cochi- neal when the sugar is put to them. 740. Apple Paste for Knots or Candy. Peel, core, and cut in small pieces, eight pounds of golden rennet apples; boil them with one quart of clarified sugar (No. 675.) and one quart of water; when done, mash and rub them through a sieve; let 180 CONFECTIONARY. them just begin to boil, and add one quart more of clarified sugar, and let it boil five minutes ; spread it on copper sheets tinned all over, very flat and regular, the thickness of your finger; let it dry in the drying- stove, and cut it in what form or shape you like. It may be coloured red with cochineal, (No. 673.) or with saffron for yellow. Note.—This paste is generally used for ornamenting the tops of twelfth cakes; or it may be candied after the shapes are dried hard. 741. Marshmallow Paste, or Pate de Gimauvre. Take half a pound of marshmallow roots, cleaned, and boil with one quart of water down to one pint; strain and pour this over one pound of fine gum arabic, and one tea-cupful of orange-flower water; keep it in a warm place till the gum is dissolved; strain it through a tammy, and heat it well; add one pound and a half of sifted treble-refined sugar; stir it together till perfectly white and thick; add the whites of six eggs; whisk it up to a strong froth, and stir it in ; put it in a large square paper case, well sugared, and dry in the drying-stove; when half dry cut it in small pieces, and dry on sieves. 742. Fresh Barberry Drops. Bake the barberries in jars; when done rub them through a fine sieve; dry this pulp off in a stove or cool oven, in a dish, to a very thick paste; add as much sifted sugar as will bring it to the consistency of laying it in drops on paper; dry them in the drying- stove; wet the backs of the paper to take them off, and dry on sieves. 743. Barberry Biscuits. Proceed as for barberry drops, (No. 742.) adding to one pound of pulp three pounds of sifted sugar, and 182 CONFECTIONARY. 747. Compote of Apples. Peel two dozen of golden pippins very neatly ; core them and place in a flat stew-pan; put syrup, (No. 675.) but not to cover ; add the rind and juice of one lemon, a stiek of cinnamon, and six cloves; cover with paper ; let them boil very gently on one side; when cold, turn and boil the other; so on till they appear quite transparent and tender ; strain the syrup off, and add to it half an ounce of isinglass and the juice of two lemons; boil them together a quarter of an hour ; put in a dish; serve the apples on it: when the jelly is cold, chop some of it and put over the top of the apples. Note.-Pears may be done the same way. 748. Compote of Codlings. Core and prick the codlings; simmer them gently in water till tender ; cover with clarified sugar ; (No. 675.) and warm them two or three times in it. 749. Compote of Apricots. Cut apricots in halves; scald them tender; drain and cover with clarified sugar; (No. 675.) boil to a strong blow, as No. 674, with the juice of one lemon and a few kernels of the apricots blanched ; and boil them up twice. Note. — Peaches, nectarines, and greengages are done the same way. 750. Macedoine of Fruits. Put all sorts of fruits, made as for compotes, toge- ther in one glass, and serve them all together. 751. Compote of French Plums. Put a pound of fine French plums in a stew-pan, with half a bottle of port wine, two ounces of sugar, one lemon squeezed, and the peel, half a pint of water; boil gently till very soft, and serve in a glass. 184 CONFECTIONARY, them up gently all over; cover them with paper; let them stand till cold. Note.-Barberries, mulberries, and blackberries are done the same way. 758. Compote of Quinces. Peel six quinces; cut in halves, and boil quite ten- der; put them in a pint of syrup, boiled to a blow, as No. 674, with the juice of one lemon ; let them boil in it five minutes, and stand till cold. 759. Freezing Ice Creams, and Water Ices. In freezing creams and water ices, care must be taken not to make them too rich with syrup, or they will not freeze, or too poor, by putting too much water or milk in them, as they turn icy, which is, they sepa- rate in congealed particles. To freeze, set the freezing pot in a tub, with pounded ice and salt mixed and put tight round it; turn the freezing pot, with a cover on, quickly in the tub; and as the mixture freezes round the sides, scrape it off into that which is unfrozen at the bottom with the ice spoon, and turn it again till the whole is frozen to the consistency of butter; if wanted in shapes, put the frozen mixture in them; cover them over with ice and salt till wanted; then wash the shape in cold water, that no salt remains on it; take off the ends of the shape, and the ice cream will slip out. Ice fruits are put in leaden shapes, and when turned out, are coloured according to the fruit; and the bloom may be given them by blowing the breath on them when served in the dish. Note.—The fruits in moulds are, generally, pine apples, melons, oranges, lemons, peaches, and grapes. Ice cases are made for the convenience of turning the creams out and keeping them ready to dish up. ICES AND CREAMS. 185 760. Lemon Acid. As it frequently happens in the country that lemons are not to be procured, and as it is impossible to make good ices without a portion of lemon-juice, which is the foundation of water ices in general, it is best to be provided with the concrete lemon juice (made by Mr. Duncombe, chymist, in Fleet Street), as that, when dissolved according to the directions given, will answer much better than the juice itself, being more free from the taste of the peel : one ounce will make a pint of juice of equal strength; and the flavour inay be given, by adding a few drops of essence of lemon. Note.-The facility of making a glass of lemonade from this acid has no equal. 761. Fresh Raspberry Cream. Mash a pint and a half of fresh raspberries, with half a pound of sifted sugar, the juice of a lemon, and a pint and a half of cream; rub it through a sieve, and freeze as directed. (No. 759.) Note.-Fresh strawberry cream is made the same way. 762. Raspberry Cream with Jam. Half a pound of raspberry jam, three spoonfuls of syrup, (No. 675.) the juice of two lemons, one pint and a half of cream, mix all together; rub through a fine hair sieve; add a spoonful of cochineal prepared, as No. 673 ; and freeze, as No. 759. Note.-Strawberry cream with jam, the same way. 763. Raspberry Water Ice, fresh. Mash and rub a quart of raspberries through a fine sieve; add the juice of two lemons, and half a pint of syrup, (No. 675.) and half a pint of water, and freeze, as No. 759. Note.-Strawberry water ice the same. Water ices 186 CONFECTIONARY. are so named, from water being added to the different fruits instead of cream, and giving them the consist- ence of thin syrup. 764. Fresh Apricot Cream. Mash eighteen ripe apricots with half a pound of sugar, the juice of two lemons, and a pint and a half of cream ; rub through a sieve, and put in a few of the kernels blanched, and freeze, as No. 759. Note.-Peach, plum, and mulberry are made the same way. 765. Apricot Cream with Jam. Take half a pound of apricot jam, the juice of two lemons, a pint and a half of cream, half a pint of syrup, (No. 675.) half a pint of water'; rub through a sieve, and add a few of the kernels blanched : and freeze as No.759. Note.—Peach, apricot, and plum, may be made the same way. 766. Apricot Water Ice. Mash and rub through a sieve, eighteen ripe apricots, with half a pint of syrup; half a pint of water, the juice of two lemons, with a few of the kernels added; and freeze, as No. 759. Note.-Peach, plum and cherry, are made the same way. 767. Pine Apple Cream, fresh. Grate one pound of fresh pine apple ; add half á pint of syrup; (No. 675) a pint and a half of cream, the juice of two lemons; rub through a sieve; cut two slices of pine in small dice, and freeze with it, as No. 759. 768. Pine Apple Cream with Jam. Pound six ounces of preserved pine apple; one spoonful of the pine syrup, a quarter of a pint of clari- ICES AND CREAMS. 189 of eggs, two.spoonfuls of orange-flower water; boil, and whisk till cold; and freeze, as No. 759. 780. Ratafia Cream. Take four ounces of ratafia biscuits, one pint and a half of cream, two ounces of sugar, three yolks of eggs; boil all together; whisk till cold, and freeze, as No. 759. 781. Biscuit Cream. Take six sponge biscuits, a pint and a half of cream, three yolks of eggs, and three ounces of sugar; boil all together; whisk till cold, and freeze, as No. 759. 782. Burnt Cream Ice. Put two ounces of sifted sugar in a stew pan; stir. it over the fire to a fine brown; then add one pint and a half of cream, mixed with four yolks of eggs, and one ounce of sugar; boil it together, whisk it till cold, and freeze as No. 759. 783. Brown Bread Cream. Whisk up a quart of thick cream ; add two spoon- fuls of brown bread, dried and powdered, with two ounces of sugar; stir it together, and freeze it, as No. 759. Note.Brown bread cut in slices, dried in the oven, pounded and sifted. 784. Trifle Cream Ice. Make a trifle cream as directed, No. 397, and freeze, as No. 759. 785. Ginger Cream Ice.. Take four ounces of preserved ginger cut in small slices, two spoonfuls of the ginger syrup, four yolks o eggs, and one pint and a half of cream; boil, and whisk it together till cold, and freeze, as No. 759. 190 CONFECTIONARY. 786. Tamarind Cream Ice. Take half a pound of tamarinds, three spoonfuls of syrup (No. 675); warm it together, and add one pint and a half of cream; rub it through a sieve; and freeze, as No. 759. 787. Tamarind Water Ice. Take one pound of tamarinds, a quarter of a pint of syrup (No. 675), a pint and a half of water; heat it together; rub through a sieve, and freeze, as No. 579. 788. Noyeau Cream Ice. Take one pint and a half of cream, three yolks of eggs, three ounces of sugar; boil together; whisk till cold, then add one glass of noyeau liquor; and freeze, as No. 759. Note.-Marasquin is done the same way. 789 Noyeau Water Ice. Take half a pint of lemon-juice, half a pint of syrup, (No. 675.) a quarter of a pint of water, and freeze, as No. 795; then stir in one glass of noyeau, and four whites of eggs, whisked up to a strong froth. Note.-Marasquin ice done the same way. 790. Vanilla Cream Ice, Pound two sticks of vanilla, with three ounces of sugar; add to it one pint and a half of cream; boil, and whisk it till cold; rub it through a lawn sieve ; and freeze, as No. 759. 791. Almond Cream Ice. Pound four ounces of blanched Jordan almonds with six bitter almonds, fine; add three ounces of sugar, a pint and a half of cream, three yolks of eggs; boil, and whisk till celd; and freeze, as No. 759. LEMONADE. 193 803. Mille Fruit Ice. Take half a pint of lemon juice, or acid; one pint of syrup (No. 675.) ; half a pint of water; when frozen, add, and stir in it, one ounce of dried cherries, four ounces of candied orange and lemon peel, apricots, green plums, currants, and preserved ginger, alto- gether, and cut in small pieces. If turned out of a mould, sprinkle it over with a little cochineal. 804. Negus Ice. A bottle of port wine ; half a nutmeg grated; one lemon rubbed, and scraped off sugar, with the juice of two; one pint of syrup, (No. 675.) and freeze, as No. 759. 805. Orangeade. Rub six oranges on sugar, and scrape it off; squeeze them, and add to it the juice of six lemons; a quarter of a pint of syrup (No. 675), and three pints of water; put it through a lawn sieve. 806. Lemonade. Rub six lemons on sugar, scrape it off ; squeeze to them eight more; add half a pint of syrup, (No. 675.) and three pints of water ; strain through a lawn sieve. 807. Clarified Lemonade. Take the juice of eight lemons, one pound of loaf sugar; put one quart of boiling milk on it, stir well, and let remain twelve hours ; cut the rinds of four lemons very thin ; pour one pint of boiling water on them, and let them stand twelve hours; mix altoge- ther, and run through a jelly bag till quite clear. Note.-Clarified orangeade the same way. 808. Milk Punch. Pare the rind of twelve lemons and two Seville oranges thin; put them to steep 'n six pints of rum for twenty-four hours; then add two pounds of re- K 194 CONFECTIONARY. fined sugar pounded, three pints of water, two nutmegs grated, and a pint of lemon juice; stir it till the sugår is dissolved ; take three pints of new milk, boiling hot, and pour to the ingredients ; let it stand twelve hours, closely covered, then strain through a jelly bag, till it is quite clear; bottle it. It is an excellent cool liquor and cordial. 809. Aerated Ginger Drink. One pound of cream of tartar, four lemon rinds, and juice, three pounds of loaf sugar, four ounces of coarse pounded ginger ; boiled altogether for ten minutes in four gallons of water ; skim it clear, and let it stand till nearly cold; add a spoonful of yeast; stir it together; let it stand all night to settle; then bottle in small stone bottles; tie the cork down ; in three days it is fit for use. 810. Brisk Imperial. Pour three quarts of boiling water on two ounces of cream of tartar, and the rinds of three lemons, pared very thin ; add a tea-cupful of syrup (No. 675.); stir it well, and when near cald, put a table-spoonful of good yeast; bottle it, and tie it down ; in two days it is fit for use. 811. Ginger Pop. One pound of loaf sugar, one ounce of cream of tartar, one ounce of ground ginger, one gallon of boil- ing water; mix together; when nearly cold, add one spoonful of yeast; strain and bottle it; tie the cork over, and in six hours it is fit for use. 812. Raspberry Water. Mash one pint of raspberries in the juice of two lemons; a tea-cupful of syrup (No. 675.); add one pint of water; strain it through a lawn sieve. Note.-Strawberry, cherry, mulberry, or any waters made from fresh fruit, are done the same way. DROPS. 195 813. Apple Water. Boil six apples, cut in pieces with the skins on, with one quart of water; strain, and add two ounces of honey, with the juice of two lemons. 814. Peach Water. Mash eight ripe peaches, add the juice of one'lemon, a tea-cupful of syrup (No. 675.), a pint and a half of water; strain through a lawn sieve. Note Apricot water done the same way. 815. Orgeat to drink fresh. Blanch and pound four ounces of Jordan almonds, with four bitter almonds; when pounded very fine, add one quart of water or milk, with two spoonfuls of syrup (No. 675.), and two spoonfuls of orange flower water. CONFECTIONARY. 816. Directions connected with the plates of Con- fectionary are given with those receipts requiring them. 817. Drop Making It is essential to have a small copper drop pan, made with a lip on the right side, that, when the pan is held in the left hand, the mixture may be dropped out with the right, and is done by having a piece of wood six inches long, made to fit the lip, and letting the mixture escape, a drop at a time, on the tins; a little experience will soon accomplish it. See a drawing of the pan and stick in plate, No.5. 818. Peppermint Drops. Take three spoonfuls of water ; stir in it as much fine sifted treble-refined sugar as will make it into a paste, just to drop off the spoon; put it in the drop K 2 196 CONFECTIONARY. pan, and stir it over the fire till it boils ; let it boil half a minute; take off the fire, and add ten drops of oil of peppermint, and stir in quickly with a handful of sifted sugar, to bring it to the consistence of dropping easily out of the pan; drop as directed (No. 817.) on tins; when cold, slip them off on sieves ; put them in the drying stove a few days. Note.-All kinds of boiled drops are made the same way, by flavouring with the different essences, lavender, rose, bergamot, lemon, clove, ginger, and cinnamon, 819. Chocolate Drops. Melt half a pound of chocolate with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, 'mix in it as much sifted sugar as will make it a thick paste; or, instead of butter, two ounces of sweet oil may be used; put it on papers, in small round pieces, and flatten by shaking the paper on a warm tin; when in the shape of a drop, dip the papers in white nonpareil seed, or let them remain plain; when perfectly cold they will easily leave the papers. Note.—The way to drop them is by using a knife and a long flat piece of wood, spreading the paste on it, and cutting them all of a size. 820. Chocolate Harlequins. Make the same paste as for drops (No. 819.); mould it round a pistachio nut, peeled with the finger; dip it in coloured nonpareil seed, while warm, and let it cool, 821. Orange Pallets. Take a quarter of a pint of lemon juice; add the peels of six oranges, rubbed in sugar and scraped ; make it in a thick paste with fine sifted sugar; put it on the fire, stirring all the time, and boil half a minute; then stir iņ sifted sugar to make it a proper consistence to pour in small paper cases, or all over a tin, very smooth, GUM PASTE. 197 and cut it in square shapes; when perfectly cold it will slip off the tin. Note.—Lemon and barberry pallets are done the same way. 822. Sugar Gum Paste. Soak one ounce of gum tragacinth in half a pint of water, stirring it frequently till quite dissolved (it will take a day and a night soaking); squeeze it through a coarse strong cloth, by twisting it at each end, till all is through; put it in a mortar, and add four ounces of fine-sifted treble-refined sugar; work it well till it is incorporated, and quite white; put it in a glazed earthen pan, with a wet cloth over the top to keep it moist; when wanted, take as much of this paste, work and knead in it fine sifted sugar till it becomes a soft paste, without sticking to the fingers. Note.—This paste may be moulded in any shape or form; or cut out of gum pasteboards using a little fine hair powder while handling it. If wanted coloured, grind what colour is necessary, very thick with water, add it in the working up; or if scented, add the essence at the same time. This gum paste is the foundation of bodies of comfits. 823. Colours used for Gum Paste. For pink, fine lake ground with water. For red, vermilion powder. For yellow, gamboge soaked thick with water. For blue, Prussian blue, ground fine with water. For green, Prussian blue and gamboge. For brown, vermillion and lamp black. For orange, gamboge and vermilion. For purple, blue and lake. These colours, ground with water, will answer all the purposes of colouring gum pastes and nonpareils. COMFITS. 199 829. Peppermint Pipes. Take of gum arabic paste (No. 825.); add a few drops of oil of peppermint; roll it out in lengths, the size of a tobacco pipe; cut, and dry on sieves in the drying-stove. Note.-Ginger pipes are made the same way. 830. Acidulated Rose Lozenges. Take one pound of the gum arabic paste (No. 825.); add half an ounce of lemon acid in powder, with a spoonful of the essence of rose; work it to a stiff paste; roll and cut out with round cutters; dry on sieves in the drying-stove. 831. Tolu Lozenges. Rub an ounce of balsam of tolu in a mortar, with three ounces of sugar; mix it well with one pound of gum arabic paste (No. 825.); roll; cut out with round cutters; dry on sieves in the drying-stove. 832. Comfit making. A pan must be had according to the drawing (No. 4.), and swing from the ceiling with a pulley and likewise a temporary stove to stand underneath it. If the comfits are to be rough, or what is called pearled, a cot, as shown in Plate No. 4, to hold the sugar to drop over the pan, should be had. Whatever the substance is, it must be put in the pan, and rubbed about with the hand till quite hot; then add as much syrup, boiled to a small blow, as No. 674, as will wet the substance, but not too much; work and toss the pan backwards and forwards, to separate the substance in it, till dry (which will be in about five minutes); keep adding the syrup as warm as possible, till the article gets covered all over, and large enough. ; Care must be taken to have a gentle charcoal fire under the pan ;- but not to touch it. See drawing, No. 3, Plate 4. cord; 202 CONFECTIONARY. ceed as the colour the paste blue; make it in the shape of a small rolling pin; dry them on sieves in the stove, hard; and proceed as for Scotch carraways, (No. 836.) Six pounds is the least quantity you can take in the pan at a time, or of any other comfits. 842. Clore Comfits. Made of sugar gum paste as directed (No. 822.), and flavour with oil of clove, and moulded in the shape of a clove ; dried in the drying-stove, quite hard ; pro- other comfits; and make them smooth. 843. Cut Comfits. Flavour the paste with lemon, rose, and bergamot ; cut it in different shapes with cutters; dry it; and proceed the same as the other comfits. 844. Ginger Comfits. Work up, with six pounds of the gum paste (No. 822.), half a pound of pounded ginger to flavour it'; cut out round, or roll in small balls; when dry, pro- ceed as the other comfits, 845. Cassia Bud Comfits. Take four pounds of cassia buds; proceed the same as the Scotch carraways ; work them up to a good size ; and finish smooth as the others. 846. Cardenom Comfits. Break the husks of the cardenoms by rolling them with a pin; separate the skins from the seed; take two pounds of them, and proceed the same as the carraways (No. 836.) ; work them a good size and smooth, 847. Barberry Comfits. Pick barberries off the stalks; dry them in a hot dry- ing-stove, till they are quite crisp, put two pounds in COMFITS. 203 the comfit pan, and give them three wettings with dis- solved gum arabic and flour mixed together; rub them dry; and proceed with sugar afterwards as the other comfits; work them smooth; and finish with fine syrup. (No. 675.) 848. Nonpareils. Sift fine sugar through a fine wire sieve; then sift again through a lawn sieve to take out the dust; what remains will be like a fine sand, and without dust; put two pounds of this in the comfit pan, as No. 832, and proceed as for Scotch carraways; work them well with the hand to the size of a pin's head; they will be quite round. 849. Ginger Seed. Take two pounds of nonpareil (No. 848.), when per- fectly dry; wet them with three spoonfuls of strong gum water, and rub well with the hand till all are co- vered with it; put them in pounded ginger, sufficient to cover them, and rub them in it; put them in the stove altogether; when dry, sift the ginger off, and keep them well covered in a glass or box. 850. Peppermint Seed. Wét two pounds of nonpareil, (No. 848.) and rub them with sixty drops of oil of peppermint ; put them in a sieve to dry in the stove; put them in boxes or bottles well covered. 851. Raspberry Comfits. Mix some raspberry jam with the gum paste (No. 822.); colour it red with lake, and mould them in the shape of raspberries; dry them well in the stove to get hard; proceed with them in pearling, as directed at No. 833., till as large as the natural raspberry, and as rough. TRASHEES. 205 size of a pea, is then cut off with the knife, and twisted over the board in the form of a shell, and dried on sieves; the shells are generally pure white, brown and white, red and white, blue and white, yellow and white, and green and white, and are exactly in the form of a small trochee shell. 857. Long Shells Are made of sugar gum paste (No. 822.), the same as small shells (No. 856.), only the paste flattened when rolled out, and made an inch in breadth : they are ge- nerally made green and cinnamon colour. 858. Small Hats Are made of sugar gum paste (No. 822.), of different colours, rolled out flat, and cut out with the round cut- ter the size of a thimble, and three sides pinched up in the shape of a cocked hat, and dried on sieves in the stove, 859. Cloves Are made of sugar gum paste (No. 822.), and fla- voured with essence of clove, moulded in the shape of a clove with the finger, cut in a cross at the top, and dried on sieves in the drying-stove. 860, Oats, Rolling Pins, and Carrots Are made with sugar gum paste (No. 822.), flavoured with different essences, and formed with the hand sepa- rately; dry on sieves in the drying-stove. 861. Cut Shapes Are made with sugar gum paste (No. 822.), rolled out thin, of various colours, and cut out with cutters, as shown in plate, No. 3. 862. Casting Wax Ornaments and Baskets. Melt three parts of spermaceti, and two parts of white virgin wax, in an earthen pan, standing it in 206 CONFECTIONARY. boiling water; when perfectly melted, and not too hot, pour it in the mould. If in a plaster mould, sponge the inside with warm water all over ; but if a copper mould, wipe it well inside with sweet oil. When per- fectly cool, it will come out easily. In this way, figures, baskets, fruits, &c. may be cast; but the most prefer- able way is casting them in moulds made of plaster of Paris. (See No. 363.) 863. Plaster Moulds for casting Wax. Model a shape according to what is wanted; if a basket, or anything that projects, it must be made in several pieces; if round or square, it may be made in one; oil the parts of the model all over; mix plaster of Paris, that is well burnt and sifted fine, into a thick paste, as thick as gum water; lay it on one side of the surface of the model, but not over anything that pro- jects, or it will not come off the model; when dry, whieh will be in a few minutes, scrape it, and mark the piece by cutting holes in it at the sides; then oil it well, and lay on another surface more plaster, as before, mixed fresh; and so continue till the whole model is covered all over. When dry, it will come to pieces; take the model out and tie it together, leaving an aper- ture for pouring in the wax; great care must be taken of the extremities, for if not properly cast they will never come out of the mould. 864. Casting Flat Moulds in Plaster of Paris. Lay the subject that is to be cast flat on a marble or glass slab; make a wall round it with wax; oil the patterns, such as borders, stars, and patties, as well as the slab; mix plaster of Paris with water to the con- sistence of thick cream, and pour it gently over the patterns, till covered over two inches thick; when per- fectly dry, which will be in half an hour, remove the wall, and take up the mould ; oil it and dry it well before using. ORNAMENTS. 207 865. Sticking Wax. To one pound of bees wax, add half a pound of Venice turpentine; melt together, and pour it in a paper box well soaped over. This is very useful in sticking, or making the walls round plaster moulds ; when used, warm it in the hand a little. 866. Gilding on Wax. Wash the wax article over with a little soda and water, after being cast; dry it well; make some glaze of eggs, by beating up the white of an egg to a froth, and let it run in a liquid'; wash over the wax ornament with this liquid, and, when dry, cover the parts that are to be gilt with japan gold size; when near dry and sticky; gild on it, and press the gold on; let it stand to get perfectly dry, then wash it all over with clean water and a bit of cotton, and the superfluous gold will come off, and leave that which was sized; the gold may be shadowed with any dark colour. 867. Painting on Wax Is done with oil colours, and similar to any other painting. 868. Dressed Plates for Desserts Are small pieces of ornaments put in a plate to hold dry sweetmeats, comfits, drops, &c. and made to stand high according as they are wanted, and as shown in plates, No. 11. and 12. The foundation is a piece of board, with the wires covered over with gold paper and paste according to fancy; artificial flowers, gold paper, beads, and foil, may be used in parts, and finished with gum paste ornaments, as No. 824. out of the gum paste board: in this way all wire ornaments are made and decorated. 869. Cement for Pasting Paper on Wire. : Mix hair powder with thick soaked gum arabic in a paste the consistence of thick cream. 208 CONFECTIONARY. 870, Potatoe Yeast. Boil mealy potatoes, and mash them very smooth add boiling water until they are of the thickness of good yeast, and put them through a sieve. To every pound of potatoes, add two ounces of brown sugar; and when it is quite warm stir in it two or three spoon- fuls of good yeast to every pound; keep it warm till the fermentation is over, and keep it for use. Bread must be made a longer time before it is baked with this yeast. When you want it replenished, add a few more potatoes, and a spoonful of brown sugar, 871. Colouring Sands for Plateaur. Have some fine marble-dust sifted through a lawn sieve; take as much as is wanted, and mix with any ground colours with water, adding a little gum water, but not to wet it too much; rub it well with the colour with the hands, and when perfectly coloured, sift it on paper to dry in the air; when dry, rub it again with the hands, and sift it through a sieve. Note.—These colours may be made to any tint by mixing the colours, and used on the plateaux, which will have the effect of crayon painting ; but as it re- quires a knowledge of painting and design, there are few people capable of perfecting it well, and it is there- fore little used. OF BILLS OF FARE, &c. From the great number of dishes, I have selected a few, so as to form four Bills of Fare for a table of twelve or fourteen persons, according to the different seasons of the year, and which will be a guide, in some measure, for the reader; and as Ball Suppers are, in 209 the present day, almost excluded, and balls being given at different pe: iods of the year, make it impos- sible to lay down a general rule, for a supper of that description; I shall, therefore, only name the articles used on such occasions. If a Hot Supper should be wished, the following things may be served :-White and clear Soups, Roast Fowls and Chickens, stewed Peas, French Beans and Potatoes, in Sauce, and any small Ragout; when hot Suppers are served, Ices should always remove Soups and Roasts. THINGS USED FOR COLD SUPPERS, Roast Fowls and Chickens. Potted Meats, Lamb, Ribs and Shoulders. Meat Cakes. Ham, Ornamented or Slices, in Baskets. Aspic Jellies. Lobsters and Italian, Sallads. Tongues. Raised Pies. Pastries, Jellies, and Creams. Collared Pig. Ditto Veal. Ices, Sweetmeats, Ditto Eels. &c. The present fashion is to have a great variety of cold meats, sallads, jellies, cakes, pastries, lobsters, prunes, and fancy baskets, laid out on a table made high enough for the company to stand and eat their supper. 212 SUMMER. FIRST COURSE: Fried Soles, or Red Mullet. (Remove, Ragout Breast, Fricandeau Veal Veal, stewed Peas.) Sorrel Sauce. Fillet Fowls. Larded Bechamel. Neck Lamb. Braized Cucumber Sauce. Vole-au-Vent, with Pigeons. Lamb's Feet. Mushroom. Ripoles of Pullets, Green Pea, or White Soup. Gigot of Lamb, Spanish Sauce, or Haunch Venison, SECOND COURSE. Puffs. Raspberry Creams. Large Fowl larded, White Sauce. Artichokes in Sauce. Stewed Pease. Almond Pastry. Dotterell roasted. Fruit Comfits. 1。 1 1 11 1 { | PLATE I C Coole del PASTRY CUTTERS, THE SIZE Published in Wimp &.3. N:arshell. Dec??524 . PLATE 2 PASTRY CUTTERS, THE SIZE Publined by W. Sumpkın &K. Marirall Dec. 1827. 1 PLATE 4 CONFECTIONARY. 17 4 Sachet 1 PAN 2 PEARING CO 3 STOVE 1 GRATE FOR STOVE 5 MOVEABLE BLOCK OR PULLEY 6 WIRE TO SUSPEND THE COI 1 1 CONFETTIOITA BY :1 2 E 09 JCC del 1. TRASTIEF BOARD 2. DROP PEL 3 STICK FOR THE DROP PAN 4. SUCAR SKIMMER 5 TEASHEE KIF } 1 IN RYING PLA 6 STOVE. ! CC de 1. CHARCOAL DAN 2. SIEVES ON RACKS 3. DOOR unei A muna 1 다 ​V.CC. del PASTRY, Published by W. Sumir F. Mer Mall Dec??:29. } PAE8 *** J.C.C.del PASTRY Published ? W. Simpkin &AMirthall. Dec"?827. 1 LATE 12 WMN ele0009 Ccoke del DREST PLATE, 2 FEFT HIGH Butlined ni W Sympicine turn Dec.324. | 1 | கா