Chingan TO -- - ---- - -- (Cringan's .:: TORK . Dhan IJR, LUX AND TIL EN PCW.DATIONS, COOKING CLASS-RICHMOND HIGH SCHOOL, 1895. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING: WITH SELECTED RECEIPTS. BY Mrs. JOHN W. CRINGAN, Teacher of Cooking in the High School of Richmond, Virginią ; Teacher of Cooking in the Miller Manual Labor School of Albemarle County, Virginia. COPYRIGHTED, 1895. RICHMOND: J. L. HILL PRINTING COMPANY, 1895. THE NEW YORK PUELIUS 93322 ASTOR, LENOX AND TILDEN FOUNDATIONS. 1898 TO THE MEMBERS OF MY COOKING CLASSES THIS BOOK IS RESPECTFULLY AND AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED. Suggestions. The following tables, copied from a well-known authority on cooking, are inserted with the hope that they will be useful. Of course, no invariable rules of this kind can be given, because of the difference in the size and quality of the article to be cooked, as well as entire ignorance on the part of the compiler of the character of the fire to be used in cooking The explanations and definitions arranged by myself may be found helpful to those using “ The Book of Instruction in Cooking." TIME-TABLE FOR BOILING. Eggs, coffee, clams, oys- String beans, shelled ters ......... 3 to 5 m. beans, oyster plant. . 45 to 60 m. Green corn, small fish, Fowls, turkey, veal. .. 2 to 3 hrs. and thin slices of fish, 5 to 10 m. Corned beef, smoked Rice, sweet breads, peas, beef, beef a la mode, 3 to 4 hrs. tomatoes, asparagus, Ham.......... 4 to 5 hrs. hard-boiled eggs . . . 15 to 20 m. Small pieces of meat, Potatoes, macaroni, allow 15 m. to warm squash, celery, spinach, through, then for every cabbage. ...... 20 to 30 m. pound. ....... 15 m. Young beets, carrots, tur- nips, onions, parsnips, Halibut and salmon in cauliflower ...... 30 to 45 m. cubical form per Ib.. 15 m. Winter vegetables, oat- Blue fish, bass, etc., per meal, hominy, and Ib........... 10 m. wheat, chickens and Cod, haddock, and small lamb......... 1 to 2 hrs. 1 fish per lb.. ...... 6 m . BAKING BREAD, CAKE, AND PUDDING. Loaf bread. ...... 40 to 60 m. | Bread pudding ..... 1 hr. Rolls, biscuit ...... 10 to 20 m. Rice and tapioca pudding 1 hr. Graham gems ..... 30 m. Indian pudding ..... 2 to 3 hrs. Ginger bread .. .. .. 20 to 30 m. Plum pudding ..... 2 to 3 hrs. Sponge cake. ... 45 to 60 m. Custards . . ..... 15 to 20 m. Plain cake . ...... 30 to 40 m. Steamed brown bread . 3 hrs. Fruit cake ...... 2 to 3 hrs. Steamed pudding . . . 1 to 3 hrs. Cookies ........ 10 to 15 m. Pie crust. ....... about 30 m. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. BAKING MEATS. 30 m. 20 m. Beef, sirloin, rare, per lb., 8 to 10 m. | Tame duck. ...... 40 to 60 m. Beef, sirloin, well done, Game duck ...... 30 to 40 m. per lb. ... ... . 12 to 15 m. Grouse ........ 30 m. Beef, roller, rib, or rump, Potatoes . ....... 30 to 45 m. per lb......... 12 to 15 m. Baked beans . ...... 6 to 8 hrs. Beef, long or short fillet, 20 to 30 m. Braised meat ...... 3 to 4 hrs. Mutton, rare, per lb... 10 m. Scalloped dishes . ... to 20 m. Mutton, well done, per Pigeons ........ Ib........... 15 m. Small birds ........ Lamb, well done, per lb., Venison, per lb..... 15 m. Veal, well done, per lb., 20 m. Fish, 6 to 8 lbs., ilong, Pork, well done, per lb., 30 m. thin fish. ...... Turkey, 10 lbs. weight. 3 hrs. Fish, 4 to 6 lbs., thick Chickens, 3 to 4 lbs. wt., 1 to 11 hrs. halibut........ 1 hr. Goose, 8 lbs....... 2 hrs. ! Fish, small....... 20 to 30 m. TIME-TABLE FOR BROILING. Steak, one inch thick , , 4 to 6 m. | Thick fish ....... 12 to 15 m. Steak, one and one-half Chops. ........ 7 to 8 m. inches thick ..... 6 to 10 m. ! Chickens. ....... 20 m. Small, thin fish ..... 5 to 8 m. I 1 hr. Index. IS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PAGE. Batters and Corn-Breads.... 34-43 Beef ............. 85-93 Brains, Sweet-Breads, etc. ....... ............. 146-155 Cakes ...::::::::::: 247-271 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Catsups. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315-316 Cereals ............................ 214-215 Coffee, Tea, Chocolate, and Cocoa ............... 44-47 Creams, Custards, etc.: Blanc Mange, Creams (not frozen), Cus- tards, Bavarian Creams .................. 279–287 Entrees: Eggs, Almonds, Cheese Dishes, Salads, Croquettes . . . 193–205 Explanations and Definitions. .................. 7-10 Fish .......................... ... 62-84 Fowls ...... ... 116-125 Fritters and Pancakes ................. .. 240-241 Fruit .................... 272-278 Game .. . .............. 126-133 Ice Creams and Water-Ices: How to Freeze. , 291-304 Jellies . ........ ........... .... 288-290 Made-Over Meat Dishes .............. 156-168 Mutton and Lamb. ....................... . 98-105 Pastry: Puffs, Patés, Dumplings, Rolls, Pies ... 216-225 Plain and Fancy Breads.... 19-33 Pork ............................. 106-115 Preserves ............. ... 317-327 Puddings ............. ... 226-239 Salads . ................... 206-213 Sauces, Gravies, and Stuffings ... ... 134-145 Sour Pickles: General Directions for Pickles. 305-312 Stock and Soup . ... 48-61 Suggestions ................. 5-6 Sweet Pickle.... · 313-314 Sweet Sauces ... • 242-246 To Mix Bread .......... .... 15-18 Veal. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93-97 . . . . . . . . Vegetables ................. ......... 169-192 Yeast and Sponge ....................... 11-15 Corrections. Page 24, No. 35.—“Ruck” should be rusk. Page 32, No. 63. –“Butter too thin ” should be batter. Page 45, No. 100.—"One ounce of chocolate" should be, two and a half ounces chocolate. Page 60, No. 133.-Should be, “Put the beef just as it is in the inner boiler into the tin of cold water.” Page 60, No. 134.–Should be, “Put in the double boiler or a close jar, without a drop of water.” Page 66, No. 147.-Should be, “beyond where the head," etc. Page 79, No. 194.—Omit “one round loaf stale bread and lard to fry with.” Page 87, No. 205.—“Quantity" should be quality. Page 93.—In the veal chart the six next No. 1 (one) should be nine (9), which marks the rack included in the loin. No. 2 (two) is known as the rump. Chops are cut from the rack. Page 94, No. 223.—No. 204 should be No. 205. Page 94, No. 224. —No. 204 should be No. 205. Page 95, No. 227.—“One tablespoon of flour" should be three. Page 96, No. 231.—“Chops are cut from the loin or rack.” Page 96, No. 233.—No. 215 should be No. 205, and No. 345 should be No. 206. Page 99, No. 236. — Part of the leg left from the saddle is used to boil or roast. Page 99, No. 236. — The sentence, “Not considered to be in per- fection until about four or five years old,” should be, from two to four years old; in this climate being at its best at three years of age. Page 100, No. 237.—No. 205 should be No. 206. Page 100, No. 2381.–No. 205 should be No. 206. Page 107, No. 255. —No. 205 should be No. 206. Page 110, No. 267.—No. 341 should be No. 340 Page 130, No. 325. — No. 286 should be No. 288. Page 141, No. 367.—"Moulds” should be bowls. Page 141, No. 370. —“Two tablespoons of vinegar" should be one. Page 162, No. 444.—“Put these over the water or stock" should be, Put these over the top; pour over water or stock. Explanations and Definitions. Boiling is cooking in water, and is accomplished in two ways: immersing in boiling water, and immersing in or covering with cold water and boiling the cold water after putting in the food. Steaming is cooking by steam. The usual way of doing this is in a steamer, but it may be done by putting a perforated pan or colander over a pot of boiling water; covering the pan or colander closely after putting in the food. A longer time must be allowed for steaming than for boiling. Stewing is boiling slowly in a small quantity of liquid with a mod- erate heat. Simmering is slow stewing when applied to stews, etc., very slow boiling when applied to soups. Braising is neither baking or boiling, but has some of the advan- tages of both. It is really a form of stewing done in the oven in a covered pan on a rack, with water in the bottom of the pan. Smothering is really stewing meat in its own juices. This is best accomplished by putting the meat to be cooked into a closely cov- ered vessel; set this in a very moderate oven until the juices are drawn out, then increase the heat and cook. Stewing, braising, and smothering are similar, and wholesome, ways of cooking the inferior parts of meat. Baking is surrounding the article to be cooked on all sides with dry, hot air. The bottom of the article must be protected from burning until the juices flow. This can be accomplished by putting the food on a rack in an uncovered pan, and putting the pan on the rack of the oven. Thus the hot air passes all around. Roasting is exposing to violent heat before the fire. Baked meat is often spoken of as roasted. Broiling is exposing to intense heat on one side and cold air on the other. Frying is immersing in boiling fat. Put the fat in a deep frying- pan, melt it gradually over the fire. After it is melted increase the heat until the fat comes to boiling point; this is indicated by a blue smoke which rises from the middle of the pan. If at all doubtful as to whether the fat is hot enough, drop in a crust of bread. If it INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. browns immediately, the articles to be fried may be put in. Put them either immediately into the boiling fat, or better, in a frying basket. Lower the basket gently, and do not liſt it until the con- tents are done, allowing from three to ten minutes for cooking, according to the size of the article to be fried. Shake the basket after lifting from the fat to remove any surplus grease. Drain arti- cles fried on blotting paper, and keep hot until all are done. Never fry a great many articles at a time. If a frying basket is not used, put in each article carefully with a spoon; take out in the same way, and drain; though if properly fried the article will be almost per- fectly dry when taken from the pan. In frying large things—such as fish, chicken, etc.-follow the above directions until light brown all over; then reduce the heat and cook more gradually until the article being fried is thoroughly done. To Sauté.—Heat a small quantity of butter or fat in a hot frying- pan. When thoroughly heated put the article to be sautéd in and brown' on all sides. Cook in this way until done, reducing the heat, if necessary, to prevent burning. Boiling water, stock, or cream may be added to a little of the grease left in the pan and thickened with flour for a gravy. Basting is bathing the article to be cooked in water, butter, or its own drippings. It is done by lifting the liquid in a large spoon and pouring it over the article to be basted. Mixing is to stir and work with the hands, or a spoon or paddle, until the articles to be mixed are thoroughly blended. Kneading is to work with the hands in all directions until the dif- ferent ingredients are not only thoroughly blended but perfectly smooth, as in kneading dough. The ball of the hand is pressed on the dough, thereby throwing some weight on it, while the fingers clutch the dough at each movement and draw it towards the centre of the mass. Stirring consists in moving the spoon or paddle around and around in two or more ingredients until they are thoroughly blended. Let the bowl of the spoon touch the bottom and sides of the vessel containing the articles to be stirred, and when you cannot tell one from the other they are mixed. To stir in liquids add them gradually. To Beat, hold the spoon with the bottom down, so the edge will scrape the bottom of the bowl; bring it up through the mixture and over, with a long stroke, to the opposite side. Lift the spoon out INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. of the mass, cutting clear through, and scraping the bottom of the bowl at every stroke. Greasing is covering the vessel in which food is to be cooked with sufficient grease to prevent the food sticking. As little grease as possible should be used. Flouring is covering with flour. Dusting is sprinkling lightly. Rolling.–Place dough on a floured board; flour the rolling-pin and roll from you with a quick, light stroke, not bearing hard enough to make the dough stick. Put only a small portion on, as repeated rolling hardens and toughens the dough. Thickening.-Moisten gradually flour, corn starch, or whatever is to be used, with a small quantity of liquid, stirring all the time, until enough liquid is used to make a mixture thin enough to pour into the liquid to be thickened. To Lard is to insert little strips of fat pork (size to be determined by size of article to be larded), at regular intervals, over the surface of the meat or breast of the fowl. It is done by cutting little strips of pork, known as lardoons, from the tough part of the fat nearest the skin. Throw them immediately into ice water; put a lardoon in the slot of the larding needle as far as it will go; press the needle into the meat, taking a stitch about one-half inch deep; push the needle through, press the finger on the strip of pork and draw the needle out, leaving the pork exposed at each end of the stitch. A Larding Needle is a small, hollow tube, split at the larger end to form a slot, and tapering to a sharp point. A Frying Basket is a wire or perforated steel basket to receive articles to be fried. This is lowered into the fat when used. A Salamander is a round iron plate with a long handle. A Skewer is a long metal or wooden pin used to hold, or skewer, meat together. A Double Boiler is one boiler within another, the outer one con- taining water; the inner, the article to be cooked. One cup is one-half pint. One rounded tablespoon is one ounce. To prepare suet for puddings, put the suet in a sauce-pan with enough water to prevent its burning; simmer over a slow fire until entirely melted; press through a strainer fine enough to keep back the skins, etc. When hard it can be chopped without trouble. Yeast and Sponge. GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR BREAD-MAKING. YEAST WITHOUT Hops—No. 1. 3 large or 6 small Irish potatoes, gallon boiling water, 1 gill of salt, 1 gill of granulated sugar, 1 pint of good yeast. To Make : Peel and grate the potatoes; pour over them the boiling water; stir into this the sugar and salt; mix well and leave until tepid, then stir in the yeast. Keep in a moderately warm place while rising, and afterwards at an even temperature, in a cool place in hot weather and in a moderately warm place in cold weather. Shake well before using. Allow one gill of this yeast to each quart of flour. A two-inch cube of pressed hops is equal to one-half pint of loose hops. YEAST WITHOUT Potatoes—No. 2. 1 pint of flour, * pint of hops, 3 quarts of water, 1 gill of sugar, 1 gill of salt, pint of yeast. To Make: Tie the hops loosely in a muslin bag; boil them in the three quarts of water until it becomes the color of strong green tea; then add to it gradually the flour, which has been already mixed into a smooth batter with cold water. Return to the fire and let it boil until the flour is cooked. (It is done when it looks clear and loses the raw taste.) Then add salt and sugar; let it cool until tepid; stir in the yeast, and set to rise. It works very quickly. Two kit- chen spoons of this yeast to each quart of flour. My Own YEAST-With POTATOES AND Hops—No. 3. pint of hops, 1 gill of salt, 2 quarts of cold water reduced to 3 1 gill of sugar, pints by boiling, pint of yeast, 1 pint of mashed Irish potatoes. To Make : Tie the hops loosely in a muslin bag to boil; mash the potatoes very smooth, and work into them the sugar and salt. While 12 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. mixing the potatoes, sugar, and salt, moisten gradually with the hop tea until all is mixed and perfectly smooth. Leave until tepid, then stir in the yeast; put in a covered crock or bowl to work; keep at 75° Fahr. In about twenty-four hours you will see little bubbles on top. Bottle and keep in a moderately warm place. Two kitchen spoons of this yeast to each quart of four. It is well to stir the yeast occasionally while it is working. Yeast CAKES—No. 4. 1 quart of cold water, meal to make a dough thick 1 pint of liquid yeast, or 3 cakes enough to roll like biscuit, of solid yeast, pint of hops, pint of flour. To Make : Tie up the hops in a muslin bag and boil in the water one-half hour; squeeze out the bag of hops and mix the tea gradu- ally with the flour. When lukewarm add the yeast. (If you use solid yeast dissolve the cakes, before using, in one pint of warm water.) Keep in a warm place till risen, then thicken with the corn meal until stiff enough to roll out; cut in three-inch cakes, and dry in the shade or by the stove; turn often while drying, to prevent souring. When dry put in a bag and keep in a cool place. One cake to three quarts of flour. EMERGENCY YEAST—No. 5. 1 large Irish potato, or 11 pints boiling water, 2 small ones, 1 tablespoon of sugar. To Make: Boil the potatoes until perfectly done; mash smooth, and work in sugar, adding gradually the water in which the potatoes were boiled; mix all well together and put in a covered vessel to rise or ferment. Keep in a warm place. One tablespoon of yeast will quicken the fermentation. This, prepared early in the morn- ing, will be ready to mix two quarts of flour at night. PARSNIP YEAST—No. 6. $ pint of hops, 2 quarts of water, 4 large parsnips, 6 tablespoons of flour, 1 gill of sugar, 1 gill of salt, pint yeast. To Make : Boil, mash, and strain the parsnips; tie the hops loosely in a muslin bag: boil in water till the color is the same as strong INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 13 green tea; stir into this the parsnips, already prepared as described; thicken this liquid with the flour, add sugar and salt, and leave until tepid, then stir in yeast and thin with water until you have two and one-half quarts of yeast. Leave in a covered vessel to rise. When risen, bottle and cork. One gill of this yeast to each quart of four. LIFE-EVERLASTING YEAST—No. 7. * pint of life-everlasting buds, 2 quarts water, 1 pint mashed potatoes, 1 gill of sugar, pint of yeast. To Make: Tie the life-everlasting in a muslin bag, and boil it until the water is reduced to three pints; mix gradually with the potatoes and the sugar; when tepid add the yeast. Put in a covered vessel and keep in a moderately warm place until risen; bottle, cork, and keep at an even temperature. One gill of this yeast to each quart of flour. PEACH-LEAF YEAST—No. 8. 3 large peach leaves, 3 medium sized potatoes, 1 pint flour, cold water enough to mix the flour 2 quarts cold water, into a paste, 2 tablespoons old yeast. To Make: Wash the potatoes and the peach leaves and put them on to boil with the two quarts of water. When the potatoes are done take out the leaves and throw them away. Peel and mash the potatoes and rub them up with the flour, adding the cold water to make into a paste; then pour on the peach-leaf tea and scald for about five minutes, stirring constantly; cool, and add the yeast. This will be ready for use in three or four hours. If not convenient to ferment with old yeast it can be dispensed with, but is not ready for use for twenty-four hours. GENERAL DIRECTIONS—No. 9. Watch the yeast. In hot weather examine it every morning. Should it become. flat, black, or sour, throw it away and make fresh. Keep two bottles, or two sets of bottles. While one is in use, clean, sun, air, and finally, before using, rinse out, with pure hot water, each bottle to be used and the cork belonging to it, also the crock or bowl used to work the yeast in. All should be per- fectly sweet. (Sometimes utensils look clean, but are not sweet.) In cleaning, use lye, soda, or ammonia in the water first, then pure hot 14 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. water. Should the bottom of a crock or the bottles and corks have become sour, leave the cleaning mixture in them twenty-four hours. Then clean with pure hot water. See to this yourself. It is impossible to have good yeast or good bread without perfect cleanliness. A stone or earthenware vessel is better than tin for rising yeast or bread. Always shake yeast well before using, and keep it at an even temperature-warm in winter, cool in summer. Tests For Good Flour-No. 10. Good flour is essential in the making of good bread. Therefore, it is well to have some simple rule for testing it. The quality of even the same brands sometimes varies, and the standard flours are known by different names in different places. Good flour, when pressed with the hand, remains in shape and retains the impress of the lines of the skin. It has a yellowish-white tinge when mixed with water, and when well kneaded is tough and elas- tic. Sometimes even good four fails to make good bread, be- cause of having become damp. In this case sift the flour some hours before making into bread, and keep it in a dry, airy place, but not over the fire or in a very hot sun. There are various expe- dients for improving or helping indifferent flour, but these must be left largely to the discretion and ingenuity of the cook. Sometimes the addition of a boiled Irish potato, mashed smooth, will help mat- ters, or a raw Irish potato, grated, or a little white sugar added, will quicken the rising of slow flour. On the other hand, four that rises too quickly may be allowed a shorter time for rising by making it up at a later hour, or, if it rises too rapidly, work it back—that is, give it an extra working, so as to retard the rising. In all these troubles the cook must learn to use her own judgment. These sug- gestions are only hints. PLAIN SPONGE–No. 11. pint of flour, water enough to make a thick 2 kitchen spoons of yeast (No. 3), batter, 1 teaspoon of sugar. To Mix: Mix the flour into a smooth batter by gradually stirring in the water-warm in cold weather, cool in hot. When this is per- fectly smooth, add sugar and yeast; put in a covered vessel to rise; keep in a warm place, and in cold weather near the fire. In hot INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. weather it should be kept out of the draught, but not at so high a temperature. This quantity of sponge is enough to rise one quart of flour. Potato SPONGE–No. 12. pint of four, water (warm in cold weather, cold 1 teaspoonful of sugar, in hot) enough to make a thick 1 large or 2 small Irish potatoes, batter, 2 kitchen spoons yeast (No. 3). To Mix: Mix all well together until very smooth, using the water gradually. Set to rise in a moderately warm place. In hot weather it should be kept out of the draught, but not at so high a tempera- ture. This quantity of sponge is enough to rise one quart of flour. Bread can be made with yeast alone without using a sponge, but is more apt to be successful, and is always nicer when the sponge is used. DIRECTIONS No. 13. The sponge should be made from one and one-half to five hours before the time of mixing the bread, according to the weather. The colder the weather the longer the time allowed for rising. To make the sponge, take one-half pint from each quart of flour you intend making into bread. If you wish potato sponge (which is the nicest), boil and mash very smooth the potatoes, and work into them the flour, sugar, yeast, and water, adding the last very grad- ually, so as not to make the sponge lumpy. Mix all very smooth, and beat until light. Put in a covered earthenware vessel or jar and leave in a warm place to rise ; in cold weather near the fire. Plain sponge is treated in exactly the same way. If the sponge is not risen, or has risen and fallen, never use it. An earthen vessel is better to rise yeast, sponge, or bread than a tin vessel. To Mix BREAD–No. 14. Sift with each quart of four two even teaspoons of salt, unless you find from experience that this quantity is too much for your taste. Make a hollow in the middle of the flour, in which put one teaspoon of lard, the sponge, or, if you prefer it, yeast, and a little water (about one gill), warm in cold weather and cool in hot weather. Cover all the wet ingredients with the flour, and mix from the out- side, drawing the four to the middle as you mix, keeping it always between your hands and the wet ingredients. Add water as neces- 16 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. sary, but be careful not to get the dough too wet. It is well before you begin mixing the bread to measure one pint of water for each quart of four; but use it carefully, putting in a small quantity at a time. Make the bread as soft as you can handle without sticking to your hands or the board. There are differences in the flour it- self, also differences in the atmosphere that affect the quantity of water necessary for mixing, so each person must learn by their own experience with each brand or each barrel of four. No exact rule can be given, because of the reason already stated, but a good general rule is to use one-half as much water as flour. The reverse applies to meal which requires almost twice the quantity of water as of meal. Knead until the bread is perfectly mixed and looks smooth and velvety. When sufficiently kneaded, which is usually within about one-half hour (though the length of time required to work bread depends upon the strength of the person kneading it and the quantity of bread kneaded). Grease or flour a crock or stone jar and put the dough in it. Hav- ing slightly greased the top of the dough to prevent a crust from forming, cover closely and leave in a warm room, always out of the draught, until the dough has risen to three times its original bulk, which will be from three and one-half to eight hours, according to the temperature and quantity of the dough. In cold weather the dough should be kept on a shelf at the back of the stove in a warm kitchen, and, if necessary, wrapt first in a clean linen cloth and then in a blanket or woolen cloth kept for this pur- pose. When the dough is risen to three times its original bulk, take it lightly from the crock, drop it on a floured board, and divide with your hands or with a knife into as many parts as you wish. Shape into the forms you intend baking it in, and put it in slightly greased pans or moulds, greasing between and on top each loaf or roll to prevent their running or sticking together; cover with a clean cloth or high top, and leave for the second rise. This will take from one- half to three hours, according to the size and form in which you put the dough, as well as on the temperature. In cold weather, it takes a much longer time than in warm. It should treble its bulk always before being baked. When sufficiently risen, bake in a moderate oven, not too quickly. The baking of bread is quite as important as mixing and rising. The first thing to be done is to get the stove in perfect order-have INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 17 it well cleaned, especially underneath and in the pipes (these direc- tions apply to a wood or coal stove), the directions to have it in perfect order, and clean apply to all. Having the stove in order, make a good fire and let the oven get heated. In about ten or fifteen minutes after the oven begins to heat, test it by throwing in the bottom some flour. If it browns quickly without blazing, the heat is sufficient. Another way to test the oven, is to open the door quickly, and if the heat puffs out into your face, it is properly heated. This occurs at about 350° Fahr. If you have an oven thermometer, use it, but they are not always perfectly accurate. The bread should be in the oven at the shortest ten minutes before it begins to brown. Having the bread in the oven, there is nothing more to do beyond watching it, being careful in looking at the bread to open and shut the door of the oven quickly and gently, so as not to let in the cold air or jar the bread. See that there is not too much heat next the fire for one pan to stay all the time, and change the bread around as may be necessary to bake it properly and prevent its burning, also reduce the heat slightly after the first twenty or twenty-five minutes. (A sheet of iron to slip under the pan is a valuable aid in baking bread.) Should it brown too quickly, cover with a paper-hood, made by creasing the sides of the paper to prevent it from touching the top of the bread; or better still, place a pan of cold water by the side of the bread, renewing the water when it becomes hot, if necessary. When the bread begins to leave the sides of the pans and is properly browned, try if it is done by striking it with a knife. If it sounds hollow, turn it from the pan, trying it in the same way underneath. In any case return it to the oven as quickly as possible; if it is not done, continue to bake it; if it is done, leave it in the oven to soak, with the door partly open, unless the fire is declining, then keep the door closed. Leave the bread to soak from five minutes to three-quarters of an hour, according to the size of the loaf. When thoroughly soaked, turn out of the pans on a cake-cooler or an old-fashioned sifter turned upside down. If you have no convenience of this kind, turn the loaf on its side, tilting it against something, so that the air may circulate around it freely. Never leave it on a flat surface, lest it becomes damp and soggy. These directions apply to bread which is to be cooled; bread to 18 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. be eaten hot, of course, is served directly from the pan in which it is baked. It may be well to state that the old-fashioned way of managing bread was to give it a thorough working after it had risen the first time before putting it to the second rise. If this can be successfully done, there is no objection to undertaking it, but in view of getting cooks to rise, or getting cooks at all, the shorter and quicker way is better. Plain and Fancy Breads. LOAF BREAD—No. 15. 1 quart flour, measured before sift- 1 teaspoon of lard, ing, 1 pint water, 2 kitchen spoons yeast No. 3, 2 even teaspoons salt. Mix according to directions No. 14. Rolls Made from Plain Loaf Bread Dough. When ready to put to the second rise divide the dough into as many parts as you wish rolls; shape, grease slightly on top and sides to prevent sticking; put to second rise; when sufficiently risen (when it has trebled its bulk) bake as directed (No. 14). If you wish a richer roll, work into the dough one tablespoon of butter. When preferred, more than one teaspoon of lard can be used in loaf bread, but be very careful not to get too much shortening, and when directions are given for greasing pans, bread, etc., it is not intended to grease more than absolutely necessary; nothing is more abhorrent than greasy food of any kind, but especially bread. HOE-CAKES—No. 17. When the dough for plain loaf bread is ready for the second rise take from it as many pieces as you wish hoe-cakes; form them into round or long cakes, and put them to the second rise, not letting them touch. When light and puffy, heat and flour a griddle, and bake the cakes on the outside of the stove, turning them to brown on both sides. Tear them open instead of cutting when buttered. Clover-LEAF BREAD—No. 17. Form three little balls from the loaf-bread dough and grease slightly on top and sides; put them in an old-fashioned muffin-ring which has also been slightly greased; set for second rise. When three times the original bulk bake in a quick oven. This makes a pretty and inviting-looking bread. Risen Biscuit—No. 18. When the dough for plain loaf bread is ready for the second rise take from it as many pieces as you wish biscuit; shape, stick, and 20 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. set for a second rise; when sufficiently risen, bake in a quick oven. Do not let the biscuit touch while rising or baking. TURNOVERS—No 19. When the loaf-bread dough is ready for the second rise drop it lightly on a floured board, as in direction No. 14; roll out one-half inch thick; cut round shapes, any size desired (a tomato can is a nice size); butter lightly on top; lap one edge two-thirds over the other; butter the top lightly; put to second rise, and when sufficiently risen, bake in a quick oven. ROLLOVERS—No. 20. When the loaf-bread dough is ready for the second rise roll it into a sheet one-quarter of an inch thick; cut into strips three inches wide and four long; butter lightly the top of each strip and roll it up just as you would a jelly-cake roll; set to the second rise. When light, bake in a quick oven. QUEEN Cakes—No. 21. When the loaf-bread dough is ready for the second rise roll in a sheet one-half of an inch thick; cut into round cakes, one-half of the cakes to be a size smaller than the other half; butter all lightly on top; place the smaller on the larger, pressing gently to make them adhere; put to second rise. When light, bake in a quick oven. BREAD PUFF OR BETTY LUNN—No. 22. When the loaf-bread dough is ready for the second rise pinch off one-half pound; work into it one and one-half ounces butter and lard mixed; roll out the size of a tin plate; grease the plate slightly and put the bread in it; stick as you would biscuit; set to second rise, and when risen bake in a quick oven. BANANA BREAD—No. 23. When the loaf-bread dough is ready for the second rise roll into a sheet one inch thick; cut into strips the length of small Vienna bread moulds; taper each with the fingers, and put in the mould, which must be slightly greased ; rub a little butter over each bread, set to the second rise, and bake in a quick oven. BREAD STICKs—No. 24. When the loaf-bread dough is ready for a second rise take off as many pieces as you wish sticks; roll them with the hand on a floured INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 21 board into any size and length preferred; cut off the ends; rub with a little butter; set to the second rise, and when light bake in a quick oven. LITTLE Twists—No. 25. When the loaf-bread dough is ready for the second rise pinch from it a piece of dough; roll it with the hand on a floured board into lengths of four inches; twist together prettily, pressing the two ends so as to prevent their separating; put to the second rise, and when light bake in a quick oven. FRIED BREAD_No. 26. When putting the bread (No. 15) to the second rise roll out a sheet one quarter of an inch thick; cut it in squares or long pieces of any size preferred; let it rise until light, then drop it in boiling lard, and fry until a delicate brown; drain, and serve hot; nice for breakfast, lunch, or tea. Coach Wheels—No. 27. When putting the bread (No. 15) to the second rise roll out a sheet as thin as possible; cut it into strips three inches wide and six inches long; sprinkle with sugar, after spreading with soft butter; scatter over cinnamon, nutmeg, or any spice preferred; roll up as you would a jelly roll; put them in a buttered pan and let them rise until light; bake in a moderate oven for twenty-five minutes; a baking-powder biscuit dough may be substituted for the loaf bread dough; in that case bake quickly for fifteen minutes. BREAD MADE BY A QUICKER METHOD–No. 28. 1 quart warm water, 4 tablespoons yeast, 1 quart flour, 2 even teaspoons salt, flour for adding, 1 tablespoon lard. To Mix: Beat the flour into the warm water until you have a thick batter, perfectly smooth, then add salt and the yeast, being careful that the batter is not more than milk-warm; beat again until very light; put in a bowl or stone jar; cover, and stand in a warm place, or in a pan of warm water, until very light (about one hour). When the batter is light.work in sufficient flour to make a dough; put this on a floured board and knead for eight or ten minutes, using as little flour as possible. After the bread is thoroughly kneaded return it to the bowl, put it in the same position as before, 22 INSTRUCTION IN COCKING. and let it stand until it is light and fluffy. Form it into loaves; put in greased pans, greasing on top of each loaf; stand the pans in a warm place for three-quarters of an hour and bake in a moderate oven. This bread has not the sweet taste of bread made by a slower pro- cess, but is very nice. It may be put in the form of rolls instead of loaves if preferred, and is ready to bake in a shorter time than when made into loaves. STIRRED BREAD_No. 29. 1 quart flour, 1 quart water, flour to stir in, 4 tablespoons yeast, 2 teaspoons salt, 1 tablespoon lard. To Mix: Stir the quart of flour, water, salt, and yeast into a smooth batter; put in a bowl or jar; keep in a warm place or in a pan of warm water, adding hot water if the water around the bowl becomes cold. When the batter is light and puffy add as much flour as you can stir in. Pour in deep, greased bread-pans, and bake in a moderate oven. Salt Rising BREAD—No. 30. 1 quart of flour, milk enough to make a batter the 2 teaspoons of salt. consistency of muffin batter, 1 tablespoon corn meal. To Mix: Sift the salt with the flour, adding at the same time the meal; mix into a batter by gradually adding the milk and beating until perfectly smooth and light; when you have used enough milk to make the batter the proper consistency, give the whole mixture a good beating and put it in a closed jar and set the jar in a vessel of warm water, keeping the water at the same temperature until the dough is risen; when it has trebled its bulk, work in flour enough to make a dough the consistency of stiff loaf-bread dough; let it rise until it trebles its bulk again, and when light, form into loaves as you would yeast bread at the second rise; when light bake according to directions given for baking loaf bread, being careful to soak it very thoroughly. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. BROWN OR GRAHAM BREAD—No. 31. 1 quart of Graham flour measured 4 kitchen spoons of yeast, after siſting through a course } pint white flour, sifter, water (warm in cold weather cool 2 medium sized potatoes, in hot) enough to make it the 2 even teaspoons of salt, proper consistency (from . to 1 teaspoon of sugar, 1 pint). To Mix: Use white flour, sugar, yeast, potatoes, and a little water to make a sponge as for white bread. When the sponge is risen mix exactly as you do white bread; set to rise, allowing one hour longer for rising, and a longer time for baking and soaking, exact length of time necessary for all the processes to be determined by the size and form in which you put the bread, as well as by the tem- perature. In beginning to make brown bread it is best to bake it in small forms until you become familiar with handling it. ENTIRE WHEAT BREAD–No. 32. Is made exactly like Graham bread, not taking quite so long to rise, bake, and soak, but requiring a longer time than white bread. Break each egg over a cup or small bowl, transferring it to the vessel in which it is to be beaten, thus avoiding the risk of spoiling all the eggs with one bad one. Sally-LUNN—No. 33. 1 quart of flour, 3 kitchen spoons of yeast, 3 eggs, milk enough to make a stiff batter pound butter ard lard mixed, (from 1 to 1 pint), 2 teaspoons of salt. To Mix: Sift the salt with the flour; put all wet ingredients ex- cept milk in the middle of the flour and cover as you do in making bread. When all are thoroughly mixed, add milk gradually until the dough is soft enough to beat with the hand or a spoon. When perfectly smooth and light put in a greased crock to rise. When it has trebled its bulk, pour into a greased pan or mould and leave for the second rise. Bake in a moderate oven. One teacup of sugar added to the Sally-lunn makes a nice plain cake or pudding to be eaten with a sauce. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. Sally-LUNN—No. 34. 1 quart flour, 3 kitchen spoons of yeast, 3 eggs, milk enough to make a stiff batter 1 pound butter and lard mixed, (from ļ to 1 pint), 2 teaspoons of salt. To Mix: Sift the salt with the flour; make a hollow in the middle as in mixing loaf bread; put all the wet ingredients in and cover with the flour; mix exactly as you would loaf bread. When per- fectly smooth add the milk gradually, mixing carefully until the dough is soft enough to beat with the hand or a spoon. When per- fectly smooth and light put it in the pan you intend baking it in, first having buttered the pan carefully; set to rise. When light enough (which will be from five to eight hours, according to the temperature and the quantity of Sally-lunn) bake in a moderate oven, according to directions already given. One teacup of sugar added makes a nice cake or pudding-pudding to be eaten with a sauce. In using the sugar, beat into the egg and bake the Sally- lunn in shallow pans instead of deep ones. If you intend using as cake, sprinkle with sugar when done. MADISON CAKES—No. 35. 1 quart of flour, piece of butter size of an egg, 2 eggs, milk enough to make a dough 1 teaspoon of salt, as soft as you can roll it 3 teaspoons of sugar, out, pint of yeast, 2 medium Irish potatoes. To Mix: Boil and mash the potatoes; work into them the butter, sugar, and eggs, which must have been previously beaten light. When this is smooth add the flour gradually, so as not to lump, then the yeast, and last the milk, being careful not to get it too soft; work till very light; put into a greased crock and set to rise eight hours. When sufficiently risen, roll the dough on a floured board until it is one inch thick; cut with a medium size tin cutter; put cakes in a greased pan far enough apart not to touch; let them rise one hour, and bake in a quick oven. Note.—By the addition of one teacup of sugar to the receipt for Madison cakes, already given, a nice ruck or bun may be made. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. FRENCH Rolls—No. 36. 1 tablespoon butter, 2 teaspoons of salt, l quart of four, milk enough to make a dough the 2 eggs, consistency of loaf bread, 3 kitchen spoons of yeast. To Mix: Sift the flour and salt together; make a hollow in the middle of the flour; put in all the ingredients except the milk, first beating the eggs well without separating them; mix all well together, then add the milk slowly, so as not to get the dough too soft; knead thoroughly, and put to rise in a greased crock. When sufficiently risen, shape into rolls and put to the second rise; bake as you would plain rolls, only allowing a longer time for baking and soaking. The dough also takes longer to rise than plain dough. MUFFINS—No. 37. 1 quart of flour, 3 kitchen spoons of yeast, 2 eggs, 1 even tablespoon of lard and but- 2 teaspoons of salt, ter mixed, 1 pint of milk or water. To Mix: Beat the eggs light without separating, and beat into them all the other ingredients—first flour, then milk, and so on until all are mixed; melt the butter and lard and put in last; put to rise in a greased crock or pan, and leave from four to eight hours, accord- ing to the weather. When sufficiently risen, put in cups or muffin- rings, and set for a second rise. When risen bake in a quick oven. For quick muffins substitute baking powder for the yeast, in quanti- ties as directed on the baking-powder box, and mix at the time of baking. Gill CAKES—No. 38. 1 quart of flour, 1 tablespoon of lard, or lard and 2 teaspoons salt, butter mixed, [rating, 2 large Irish potatoes, 1 egg beaten light, without sepa- milk enough to make to the consistency of French rolls (No. 36). To Mix: Boil and mash the potatoes very smooth; add the butter or lard and the egg; work all well together into the flour, adding the yeast; knead until perfectly smooth and put to rise. When sufficiently risen make into long rolls and put them across a long, narrow pan, greasing between to prevent their sticking. After the second rise bake in a quick oven. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. FRENCH BREAD—No. 39. 1 quart flour, 1 ounce butter and lard mixed, 1 pint milk, 2 kitchen spoons of yeast, 2 even teaspoons of salt. To Mix: Mix by directions for mixing loaf bread (No. 14). lightly on a floured board, wet the hands in lukewarm water, raise the dough about three feet from the board, throw it back with force, and continue this process until large air-bubbles are formed. If properly worked the dough will be very elastic and soft, but it will not stick to the hands. Put it back in the bread pan, cover and stand in a warm place to rise about two hours. When light, take out gently enough of this dough to make one loaf (about one kind of ball; roll it gently with the palms of hands, giving it an elongated shape; flour a rolling-pin, place it on top of the loaf, right in the centre, lengthwise, and press to make a little furrow in the middle of the loaf. Dust a bread cloth well with four; place the loaf just made upside down on the cloth, pulling out the ends a little to give the loaf a long shape, and so continue until all are formed; then cover with a linen cloth; let rise until it has doubled its bulk; turn into floured or greased pans, the furrowed sides up. Put loaves a little way apart if you put two in one pan. Sprinkle plenty of flour on top of each loaf and bake in a moderately quick oven. 1 quart flour, 2 tablespoons butter, 2 eggs, 1 pint milk, 2 teaspoons baking powder, 1 tablespoon sugar, 11 teaspoons salt. To Mix: Cream the butter and sugar together until very light; then add the eggs, well beaten; stir until smooth. Add the milk and flour, and give the whole a good beating; sift, and mix in the baking powder. Put in a buttered mould or pan, and bake in a quick oven. MUFFIN BREAD_No. 41. 3 pints flour, pint milk, pint warm water, 3 tablespoons yeast, 1) teaspoons salt. INSTRUCTION IN Cooking. 27 To Mix: Sift the salt with the flour; take out a pint of flour; make a hollow in the remaining quart; put in all the wet ingredients; cover with the flour; mix and knead exactly as for loaf bread, direc- tions No. 15. Put in a greased crock; cover closely; set to rise; when it has risen to three times its original bulk work in the other pint of flour; knead until smooth and velvety; put to second rise; when it trebles its bulk bake according to directions No. 14. Tea BREAD_No. 42. 1 quart flour, 1 ounce butter and lard mixed, pint milk, or all lard, 2 even teaspoons salt, 1 ounce sugar, 1 pint yeast, 2 eggs. To Mix: Sift salt and flour together; beat sugar into the eggs without separating; warm the butter and milk together; make a hol- low in the flour; put in it all wet ingredients; cover with the flour; mix and knead exactly like loaf bread (No. 15); when it has risen three times its original bulk put in a pan or cake mould and leave for a second rise; when sufficiently risen bake by directions No. 14. . BACHELORS' LOAF-No. 43. 1 quart flour, 1 ounce of lard, 3 eggs, 2 kitchen spoons of yeast, pint milk, pint water, mixed, 11 teaspoons of salt. To Mix: Sift salt and flour together; separate eggs and beat light; beat into the yolks all the other ingredients except the whites, stir these in last; put into a greased pan; set to rise until it has treb- led its bulk, then bake in a moderate oven. BACHELORS' PUFFs—No. 44. 3 eggs, pound corn-meal, 2 ounces of four, 1 ounce butter and lard, mixed, 1 pint milk. To Mix: Separate the eggs and beat light; beat into the yolks all the other ingredients, adding the whites last; bake in greased tins in a quick oven. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. Irish Potato BREAD—No. 45. 1 quart flour, 1 gill of yeast, 3 eggs, 2 even teaspoons salt, 1 ounce sugar, water enough (from 1 to 1 pint) 2 ounces butter and lard mixed, to make a dough the consist- 4 large Irish potatoes, ency of loaf bread. To Mix: Separate the eggs and beat light, beating the sugar into the yolks; boil and mash the potatoes very smooth; work into them all the other ingredients; knead until perfectly smooth; set to rise in a greased crock; when it has risen to three times its original bulk put in long, shallow pans, well buttered. When sufficiently risen bake by directions No. 14. Sweet Potato BREAD—No. 46. 6 medium sized sweet potatoes, 1 quart Aour, 1 ounce lard, 1 ounce sugar, pint milk, } pint yeast, lounce butter. To Mix: Boil, pare, and mash the potatoes; stir in butter and lard; separate eggs, and beat light; sift the flour and salt together; work all into the potatoes, except one pint of flour, which keep on the board to use in working. Knead until perfectly smooth and light. When all the pint of flour is used, put in a greased crock and set to rise. When it has risen to three times its original bulk form into small loaves; put in pans slightly greased, and leave for the second rise. When sufficiently risen bake in a moderate oven. COTTAGE BREAD_No. 47. 1 quart flour, 1 egg, 1 ounce butter and lard mixed. 1 ounce sugar, pint yeast, pint to 1 pint water. 2 teaspoons salt. To Mix : Sift flour and salt together; make a hollow in the middle; put in all ingredients, with a small quantity of the water; cover with the flour; mix by directions No. 14. Put to rise in greased crock. When it has risen to three times its original bulk divide into three loaves, and set for the second rise. When it has doubled itself, bake by directions for baking loaf bread (No. 14). INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. ORANGE Cakes—No. 48. 1 quart flour, * pint meat, 2 ounces butter, 2 teaspoons salt, 2 eggs, 1 pint milk, 2 kitchen spoons yeast.' To Mix: Sift flour and salt together; separate eggs and beat until very light; add milk to the yolks; beat into them flour, yeast, and butter, melted; give the whole a good beating; stir in the whites very lightly; set it to rise. When it has risen to three times its original bulk beat in the meal; put in buttered cups; set to rise a second time. When sufficiently risen bake in a quick oven. MUFFINS—No. 49. 1 pint warm water, 14 gills yeast, 1 egg, 1 ounce butter, 1) pints flour, 1 teaspoon salt. To Mix: Stir the milk into the flour gradually; beat the egg without separating; add to the flour; give the whole a good beating; stir in the butter, melted; set to rise. When it has trebled its bulk put in muffin-rings; keep in a warm place until light enough to bake in a quick oven. BUNS—No. 50. 1 pound sugar, 1 pound flour, 6 eggs, 1 pound butter, pint milk, 1 teaspoon salt, 2 teaspoons baking powder. To Mix: Separate the eggs and beat light; beat into them the sugar, then milk; cream butter and flour together; add the beaten mixture. When smooth and light beat in the whites, beaten to a stiff froth; last, sift and stir in the baking powder. Bake in shal- low, buttered tins, sprinkle with sugar, and cut in squares before serving. RICE BREAD—No. 51. 1 ounce lard, 2 pounds flour, 1 pound rice, 2 kitchen spoons yeast, 2 teaspoons salt, as much water (warm in cold 1 quart water, weather, cool in warm) as will 2 eggs, make the consistency of loaf 1 ounce butter, bread. 13 30 INSTRUCTION IN Cooking. To Mix: Boil the rice in the quart of water until well done; stir in the butter and lard while the rice is warm; when cool stir in the well-beaten eggs; mix well, and work in all the other ingredients; when smooth and puffy put in greased moulds; set to rise until it has trebled its bulk; bake as directed for loaf bread (No. 14). VIRGINIA RICE BREAD_No. 52. 1 pint boiled rice, 1 ounce lard and butter mixed, 3 eggs, 1 pint milk, I pint meal, 2 even teaspoons salt. To Mix: Stir butter and lard in while the rice is hot; separate the eggs and beat light; beat into the yolks first the milk, then other ingredients, except the whites; give the whole a good beating; beat in very lightly the whites; bake in a buttered dish in a quick oven; fill the dish very full. Beaten Biscuit—No. 53. 1 quart flour, 21 ounces butter and lard mixed 2 even teaspoons of salt, or all lard (a kitchen spoon- enough milk to make into a very ful is two and one-half stiff dough, ounces). To Mix: Sift the flour and salt together; make a hollow in the middle; put in shortening, and rub well together; mix with the milk, adding it very slowly so as not to get the dough too soft. Knead until smooth, then put on the biscuit block or in the break, and beat or work until the dough blisters and feels light and puffy. Roll out about three-quarters of an inch thick, or form the biscuit the same thickness. Stick, and bake in a very hot oven. Thin Biscuit—No. 54. Make little balls of beaten biscuit dough, and roll very thin; cut a suitable size; stick, and bake quickly. Thin Biscuit-No. 55. 1 quart of flour, cold water enough to make a stiff 1 heaped kitchen spoon of butter dough, and lard mixed, 2 even teaspoons of salt. To Mix: Sift the flour and salt together; make a hollow in the middle, and put in shortening; cover with the flour, and with a knife and fork, or two knives, chop the shortening into the flour, drawing the flour towards the centre. When mixed thoroughly, INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 31 use the cold water carefully to make a stiff dough, handling it as little and as lightly as possible. Roll thin; cut, stick, and bake in a hot oven. Pulled Biscuit-No. 56. 1 quart flour, milk enough to mix into a stiff 2 oz. butter and lard mixed, dough, 2 even teaspoons of salt. To Mix: Mix exactly as you would beat biscuit, but instead of beating the dough, pull it with your hands, just as you would mo- lasses candy. When light roll out, cut, stick, and bake in a quick oven, Quick Biscuit—No. 57. 1 quart of flour, * pint sour cream or buttermilk, 2 teaspoons of salt, 1 teaspoon cooking soda, even or 1 large tablespoon of butter and heaped, according to the acidity lard mixed, of the milk. To Mix: Sift the salt with the flour; put the shortening in the centre, and rub all well together until smooth; dissolve the soda in a tablespoon of boiling water, and stir it into the sour milk; add this to the flour gradually, so as not to get the dough too soft; work lightly and quickly until well mixed; roll one-half inch thick; cut, stick, and bake in a quick oven. BAKING-POWDER BISCUIT—No. 58. Make according to directions coming with each kind of baking powder. Directions for baking biscuit.—Heat the oven very hot; heat the pans, also; dust each pan with flour, and bake very quickly. If any flour adheres to the biscuit after baking, wipe it off with a clean cloth before serving biscuit. Nothings—No. 59. Beat two or three eggs; add flour enough to make the thickness of biscuit dough; break off pieces the size of a hickory nut, roll very thin and fry in butter or lard; while hot sift white sugar over them. EGG BANNOCK—No. 60. * pint flour, 3 eggs, * pint milk, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 heaping teaspoonful baking powder. 32 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. To Make: Separate the eggs and beat very light; beat into the yolks the milk and flour alternately; add the salt; sift in the baking powder; add the whites beaten to a stiff froth; beat all in lightly and pour into a well-buttered tin pan; cover it with a buttered tin or pie plate and put it over a gentle fire (the back of the stove); let it stand until it is light and puffy, then put it into the oven and brown on top; be careful not to let it burn on the bottom while in the oven. Serve hot for tea or lunch. HorsFORD's Tea Biscuit-No. 61. 13 pounds flour, 2 teaspoons of salt, 1 ounce powdered sugar, 2 measures each acid and soda of 1 pint fresh milk, Horsford's bread preparation, 1 ounce butter. To Mix: Sift flour, salt, sugar, and baking powder in a bowl; mix well with the hand; rub in the butter until thoroughly mixed; add the milk, and knead the whole well together for five minutes; place on a lightly-floured board and roll out the dough to three- quarters of an inch thick; cut out from it, with a round pastry cutter, the biscuit, and bake quickly in a buttered baking pan. GRAHAM GEMS—No. 62. 1 quart Graham flour, 2 measures each of the acid and 1 ounce butter, soda of Horsford's baking powder, 2 eggs, 1 pint milk, 1 ounce brown sugar, 1 teaspoon salt. To Mix : Separate the eggs and beat until light; beat into the yolks all the other ingredients, melting the butter. Bake in but- tered gem pans in a quick oven. The baking powder should be put in just before putting in pans. Johnny CAKE—No. 63. 1 pint flour, 3 gills meal, 1 ounce butter, 3 eggs, 1) gills sugar, buttermilk enough to make a thick 1 teaspoon soda, batter, 1 teaspoon salt. To Mix : Separate the eggs, and beat light; beat into the yolks all the dry ingredients; when very light, add the buttermilk care- fully so as not to get the butter too thin; beat in the whites beaten to a stiff froth; last beat in the soda previously dissolved in a table- spoon of boiling water. Bake on a griddle over a hot fire. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 33 BREAKFAST BREAD—No. 64. 1 quart bread crumbs, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon butter, 2 eggs, 1 pint milk, 4 tablespoons flour, } pint water. To Mix: Beat the eggs very light without separating; add to them the milk; beat in the bread crumbs and flour; stir in the salt and the water. Give the whole a good beating, and bake in greased muffin-rings in a quick oven. Serve hot. Batters and Corn-Breads. BATTERS—No. 65. Batters are thin mixtures of flour and liquid, and are of several degrees of thickness; thin batters are about the consistency of cream; thick batters are rather thicker than rich boiled custard; still thicker batters are stiff enough to keep their shape when poured from a batter kettle or spoon. A batter is a pour batter until it is made so stiff that it breaks in the pouring and drops from the kettle or spoon, then it is a drop batter; as long as it is soft enough to be beaten it is a batter, but when it can no longer be beaten it is a dough. If you have no batter kettle use a pitcher or coffee-pot to pour the batter instead of dipping with a spoon. The griddle for baking cakes should be heated gradually until very hot, and unless you have a soap-stone griddle it must be greased, but great caution is necessary in order not to get it too greasy; this may be avoided by using a pan greaser, or a lump of lard, or sweet beef suet, tied in a clean linen cloth; or, if preferred, all cakes may be baked by directions for baking buck- wheat cakes (No. 66). BUCKWHEAT CAKES—No. 66. 1 quart buckwheat, 1 gill meal, · 3 kitchen spoons yeast, 1 gill white flour, 2 teaspoons salt, 2 teaspoons molasses, enough warm water (about 1 quart) to make a thick batter. To Mix: Sift buckwheat, meal, flour, and salt together; mix into a smooth batter by adding the water slowly and gradually; when all the water is used and the batter perfectly smooth and tepid, beat in the yeast; set this to rise in a covered jar or crock allowing about eight hours for rising, according to the quantity made and the temperature; when risen this batter should be thin enough to run slightly, but the cakes should be at least one-quarter of an inch thick when done; just before baking put the griddle on the fire to heat, and beat into the batter the molasses, this makes the cakes brown nicely; should the batter have become sour beat into it one teaspoon of cooking soda previously dissolved in hot water. In greas- INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 35 ing the griddle be very careful not to get too much grease. Cakes should be baked, not fried. A very good way is to use the skin from a piece of sweet bacon, passing it over the griddle before pour- ing on the batter, instead of greasing with lard or butter. A still better way, especially in cooking cakes for sick people, is to cut an Irish potato in half, peel off a round of the skin, and rub the potato over the griddle just before pouring on it the batter. When the potato becomes dry cut off a slice, peel off another round, thus having a potato fresh for every baking. These directions apply to the baking of all cakes. In cold weather you can mix several quarts of buck- wheat, and keep in a cold place for use when needed. In buying buckwheat, buy the unmixed. Rice GRIDDLE CAKES—No. 67. 1 pint milk, 1 scant pint flour, 3 eggs, 2 teaspoons baking powder, 1 pint boiled rice, 1} teaspoons salt. To Mix: Separate the eggs and beat light; sift flour and salt to- gether; beat all ingredients except baking powder and the whites of eggs into the yolks, adding the milk very gradually; give the whole a good beating before beating in, very lightly, the beaten whites and baking powder. Bake according to directions No. 66. Nunn's Puffs—No. 68. 1 pint milk, 3 ounces butter, 5 eggs, pound flour, 11 teaspoons salt. To Mix: Boil milk and butter together; sift flour and salt; stir the milk and butter into the flour; beat well; when cool and light add the yolk of eggs; beat until light before adding the well-beaten whites. Bake in buttered cups in a hot oven. The cups should be only half-full. GERMANTOWN PUFFs—No. 69. 1 pint sifted flour, 1 pint milk, 14 teaspoons salt, 2 eggs, 1 ounce butter. To Mix: Separate the eggs, and beat very light; mix the milk with the yolks, and beat into the flour; add the butter melted; last, beat in whites. Bake in shallow tin cups in a hot oven. Heat and butter the cups before putting in the batter. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. FLANNEL CAKES WITH YEAST—No. 70. 1} quarts flour, 3 kitchen spoons yeast, 2 eggs, 1 scant quart milk, 11 teaspoons salt. To Mix: Sift salt and flour together; separate the eggs, and beat very light; add to the yolks the flour, milk, and yeast; beat until very light; last add well-beaten whites. Set to rise. This will require from five to eight hours, according to the weather and the quantity. When light, bake on a hot griddle according to directions No. 66. QUICK FLANNEL Cakes—No. 71. 1 quart flour, 1 ounce butter or lard, 2 eggs, 11 teaspoons salt, 1. pints milk, 2 teaspoons baking powder. To Mix: Sift salt and flour together; rub butter or lard into the flour with the hands until smooth; beat the yolks of the eggs, and mix with the milk; add this to the flour, etc. Give the whole a good beating; when very light, add the well-beaten whites and baking powder. Bake on a hot griddle by directions No. 66. BUTTERMILK Cakes—No. 72. 1 quart buttermilk, 1 teaspoon vinegar, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon butter or lard, 1 teaspoon soda, flour. To Mix: Beat the egg without separating; when light stir in the buttermilk; sift and beat in enough flour to make a thick batter; add salt; beat until light; add soda which has been dissolved in a table- spoon of boiling water; add butter or lard, melted; last, beat in the vinegar; bake on a hot griddle, according to directions No. 66. Taste the first cake baked, and if there is too much soda use enough vinegar to correct the taste; if too acid, use a little more soda. By using more four this recipe makes a nice drop-muffin, baked on a hot griddle. Tear instead of cutting open. OATMEAL BATTER Cakes—No. 73. 1 pint cold boiled oatmeal, 2 eggs, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 pint milk, * pint flour. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 37 To Mix: Beat the milk into the oatmeal; add the salt and the well-beaten yolks of the eggs; beat in the flour; continue to beat until the mixture is light; then beat in the whites of the eggs, whipped to a stiff froth. Bake on a hot griddle by directions No. 66. CORN-MEAL Batter Cakes—No. 74. pint meal, 2 tablespoons flour, * pint milk, 2 teaspoons salt, 1 teaspoon melted butter, 2 eggs. To Mix: Separate the eggs and beat them very light; beat into the yolks the meal and flour, softening the mixture with the milk gradually to prevent its getting into lumps. Stir in the salt and butter, and last the well-beaten whites. Bake on a hot griddle according to directions already given (No. 66). Rice may be added to these cakes if desired; in that case use milk enough to make the batter the proper consistency. LAPLANDS—No. 75. 1 quart flour, 2 teaspoons salt, 3 pints of milk, 1 tablespoon melted butter. To Mix: Separate whites and yolks, and beat the eggs until very light; beat into the yolks all the other ingredients—first milk, a little at a time; then flour, alternating flour and milk until all are used. When smooth and light beat in the butter, and last of all the whites of the eggs, which must be beaten very stiff; stir in lightly, and bake in buttered cups which have been previously heated. Fill the cups about two-thirds full only. Have the oven very hot. These eaten with sauce make a nice pudding. WAFFLES with YEAST-No. 76. 1 quart flour, 13 pints warm milk, 2 or 3 eggs, 3 kitchen spoons yeast, 2 teaspoons salt, 1 spoon of butter, melted. To Mix: Separate whites and yolks, beating all the other ingre- dients into the yolks of the eggs, using milk gradually to soften the mixture. When all is mixed and light, stir in the well-beaten whites, and put to rise in a covered jar from eight to twelve hours, according to the temperature and the quantity of batter made up. 4 eggs, INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. RICE WAFFLES—No. 77. 1 teacup of rice boiled to a jelly, 11 pints milk, 1 pint flour, 1 tablespoon melted butter, 2 eggs, 2 teaspoons salt. To Mix : Sift salt and flour together; separate the eggs, and beat into the yolks all the other ingredients, adding the milk gradually. When light, add the butter, and last the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Bake quickly, according to directions given (No. 80). BUTTERMILK WAFFLES—No. 78. 1 quart buttermilk, 1 quart of flour, 2 eggs, 2 teaspoons salt, cooking soda enough to correct the acidity of the buttermilk. To Mix: Beat the eggs separately, adding flour and buttermilk to the yolks alternately; beat very light, and last, add the whites; then, just before baking, mix a small teaspoon of soda with hot water and stir into the batter. Bake a little of the batter and taste it; if too sour, add more soda before baking the waffles; if you taste the soda, add a sufficient quantity of vinegar to correct the taste of the soda. Quick WAFFLES—No. 79. 1 pint of milk, 2 teaspoons of baking powder, 3 eggs, 1 pint flour, 1 tablespoon melted butter, 2 teaspoons salt. To Mix : Separate the eggs, and beat the yolks until light; beat into the yolks the four with the salt sifted with it, and the milk added gradually until all is used. Give the whole a good beating; stir in the melted butter, then the whites beaten to a stiff froth; last the baking powder sifted in. Bake according to directions (No. 80). FOR BAKING WAFFLES—No. 80. When the irons have not been used for a long time, boil them well, and dry them thoroughly to prevent their sticking. To bake, have a very hot fire of coals if possible. Heat both sides of the irons; grease (with a mop and melted lard) and just before pouring in the batter, turn the irons so as to pour the batter into the coldest side of the irons. Let them stand open until little bubbles begin to form, and the waffles are set, then close and bake quickly, turning if necessary to brown and make them crisp. These directions apply to the baking of all waffles. Meal may be substituted for flour when convenient, or it may be mixed with flour. INSTRUCTION IN Cooking. STALE-BREAD CAKES—No. 81. 1 pint bread crumbs, 1 pint of cold water, 1 pint of milk, 2 eggs, 1 gill of flour, 2 teaspoons of salt. To Mix: Two hours before mixing crumble the bread into a bowl; pour over the water, cover the bowl, and leave. When ready to make the cakes beat the bread up with a fork or an egg-whip until light; separate the eggs; beat them light; beat into the yolks all the other ingredients except the whites of the eggs; give the batter a thorough beating; heat the griddle; just before begin- ning to bake the cakes stir in the well-beaten whites of the eggs. Bake according to directions given for baking cake (No. 66). PONES—No. 82. 1 quart meal, 11 teaspoons salt, water to make a dough soft enough to mix with a spoon (about 1} qts.). To Mix: Sift the meal, stir the salt into it and sift a second time; pour in the water gradually, mixing with a spoon; when well mixed and perfectly smooth cover with a clean cloth and set aside for two hours; by this time the meal will have absorbed all the water and be firm enough to form into pones; bake quickly in a very hot oven. Hoe CAKES—No. 83. 1 quart meal, 11 teaspoons salt, water enough to make a dough soft enough to mix with a spoon (about 1. quarts). To Mix: Mix exactly as for pones; leave two hours; form into hoe- cakes, and bake on a hot griddle on the outside of the stove. Scratch Backs—No. 84. 1 quart meal, 1} quarts water, 1 tablespoon lard, 1) teaspoons salt. To Mix: Mix exactly as for hoe-cakes, adding the lard melted; drop from a spoon in little cakes on a pan slightly greased; bake quickly in a very hot oven. BATTER BREAD—No. 85. 1 quart boiling water, 1 pint meal, pint rice, boiled to a jelly, 3 eggs, 11 teaspoons salt, 1 tablespoon butter, melted. 40 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. To Mix: Sift the meal; stir in salt and sift a second time; pour the boiling water over the meal and stir until thoroughly mixed; leave until cool; beat the yolks very light, add to the meal, stir in the butter, and last, the whites, beaten to a froth. Fill a buttered baking dish very full, and bake quickly in a hot oven. BATTER BREAD—No. 86. 4 eggs, 11 teaspoons salt, 1 tablespoon butter, melted, 1 pint milk, 1 pint meal. To Mix: Separate the eggs and beat until very light; beat into the yolks the meal, milk, and butter; stir in the salt; give the whole a good beating; stir in lightly the whites, and bake quickly in a but- tered dish in a quick oven. HOMINY BREAD—No. 87. 1 pint boiled hominy, pint meal, 2 eggs, 1 pint milk, 1} teaspoons salt, 1 tablespoon butter. To Mix : Separate the eggs, and beat until very light; beat into the yolks the hominy, meal, milk, and butter (melted); beat well; stir the whites in after beating them to a stiff froth. Bake in a but- tered dish in a moderate oven. St. Charles BATTER BREAD—No. 88. 1 quart buttermilk, 1 teaspoon cooking soda, 1 tablespoon of melted butter, 1 pint meal, 1 egg.. To Mix: Beat the meal into the buttermilk; add the egg, beaten light, then the butter. Give the mixture a good beating; dissolve the soda in one tablespoon of boiling water, and beat it in. Bake in buttered tin-cups in a very hot oven. Corn MUFFINS—No. 89. 1 quart meal, 4 eggs, 4 quart milk, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon butter. To Mix: Beat the eggs until very light; beat into them all the other ingredients; butter, melted. Bake in muffin-rings in a quick oven. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. Yeast Corn BREAD—No. 90. 1 quart meal, 2 eggs, 1 ounce butter and lard mixed, 1 quart water, warm in cold wea- 1 teaspoon salt, ther, cool in warm. 3 tablespoons yeast. To Mix : Mix the meal and water until perfectly smooth; add the yeast, butter, and lard, melted. Give the whole a good beating, and set to rise in a greased crock just as you would Sally-lunn. When it has trebled its bulk, add the well-beaten eggs; put in a greased mould; leave for a second rise. Bake in a rather quick oven, but not in quite as hot an oven as for batter bread. CORN-MEAL MUFFINS—No. 91. 1 pint meal, pint milk, 1 teaspoon salt, 2 eggs, 1 teaspoon baking powder. To Mix: Mix just as for batter bread; siſt and stir in bread prep- aration after the batter is well beaten. Bake in old-fashioned muffin-rings in a hot oven. Mush-No. 92. 1 quart boiling water, meal enough to make the consist- 1 ounce butter, ency of boiled custard (about 1 1 teaspoon salt, pint). To Mix: Pour the boiling water gradually on the meal, stirring until perfectly mixed; add butter and salt; return to the boiler and cook until it is the consistency of cooked oatmeal, stirring constantly. GRUEL-No. 93. 1 quart boiling water, 3 tablespoons meal, 1 gill cold water, 1 tablespoon flour, teaspoon salt. To Mix: Put the boiling water in a saucepan and set on the fire; mix the flour and meal with the cold water and stir into the boiling water; boil gently for two hours; add the salt; strain and serve. A little cream may be added to the gruel when served, if desired. Coffee, Tea, Chocolate, and Cocoa. How to Roast COFFEE—No. 94. If possible, have a small coffee roaster. Mix three-quarters of Java with one-quarter of a pound of Mocha. Put it in the roaster, and taking one of the lids from the stove put the roaster over a moder- ate fire, and turn the handle constantly and slowly until the coffee is a good brown color. It will require twenty-five or thirty minutes to roast the coffee properly. When done put immediately in a jar or canister, and cover closely while hot. If you have no roaster put the coffee in a stove pan. Put it in a moderate oven, stirring frequently. It will take a little longer than roasting in the roaster. Be very careful not to let the coffee burn. When done put in a canister and fasten up immediately. If you cannot afford the above coffee use Laguayra and Java mixed. Coffee should be picked, washed, and dried before roasting Boiling WATER-No. 95. Boiling water is in perfection when the water is freshly drawn, boiled quickly, and used immediately. BOILED COFFEE—No. 96. 6 tablespoons ground coffee, 1 teaspoon of the whites and 3 pints boiling or cold water, crushed shells of an egg, cold water enough to mix the coffee and the egg into a smooth paste. To Make : Measure the coffee and mix into a paste with the egg and cold water; scald the coffee-pot well, and put in the coffee; add the requisite quantity of water, namely, one-half pint to each table- spoon of coffee; close the coffee-pot tightly; boil up three times, stirring from the sides and spout each time, but be careful not to let it boil over. When done set aside for five minutes to settle, pour some coffee through the spout and return to the coffee-pot. If you wish to serve it in another pot, heat before straining the coffee into it. Serve hot. Coffee made with cold water is quite as good as that made with boiling water, but takes longer to boil. If cold water is used, have the water perfectly fresh; if boiling water is used, boil it by directions given. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 45 DRIP Coffee-No. 97. 1 heaped tablespoon ground coffee, pint boiling water, cold water enough to mix the coffee into a smooth paste. To Make : Put the coffee in the filterer, after mixing into a smooth paste with cold water, and pour over very slowly the requisite quan- tity of fresh boiling water, namely, one-half pint water to one heaped tablespoon of ground coffee; continue till all the water is used; pour out a little of the coffee; if not strong enough repeat the opera- tion until the desired strength is obtained, keeping coffee hot all the time. GREEN TEA—No. 98. . 1 teaspoon tea, } pint of boiling water, boiling water enough to cover the tea leaves. To Make : Scald the tea-pot, and heat it by leaving hot water in it on the back of the stove for five minutes; then put in one tea- spoon of tea for each half pint water you intend using; cover the tea with boiling water; let it stand until all the leaves are uncurled; add the requisite quantity of water; leave for five minutes, and serve. In making a large quantity of tea, the proportion of water allowed for each teaspoon of tea must be increased at least one- third. If the tea is too strong when served, add boiling water. BLACK TEA-No. 99. 1 slightly heaped teaspoon of black tea, pint of boiling water, boiling water enough to cover the tea. To Make : Make exactly as you would green tea, except that you leave it on the stove twenty minutes; then serve. Another way to make black tea: 1 slightly heaped teaspoon of tea, pint of cold water. To Make : Pour the water on the tea; put on the fire and let it boil; when it comes to a boil take it off, let it stand five minutes, and serve. Mixed tea is made exactly like green tea, except that it should steep about five minutes longer. CHOCOLATE-No. 100. 1 ounce chocolate, 1 tablespoon of sugar, 1 pint of cold water, 1 teaspoon of vanilla extract, or 1 pint of milk, a small piece of stick cinnamon, one pinch of salt. 46 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. To Make : Break the chocolate into small pieces, put chocolate on with the water to melt; when melted add the milk, and let all boil together; while boiling stir in the sugar and, if you use it, cinna- mon; let all boil together until as thick as desired; put in the salt, and serve hot with or without whipped cream. If you use vanilla instead of cinnamon, add vanilla after taking from the fire. If you wish the chocolate richer increase the quantity of chocolate. Cocoa—No. 101. 1 pint milk, pint cold water, 3 tablespoons of cocoa, 1 tablespoon of sugar, a pinch of salt. To Make: Make exactly as you do chocolate; both must be stirred frequently, and strained if not perfectly smooth. Cocoa Nibs or Shells—No. 102. 1 quart boiling water, 2 ounces cocoa nibs, 1 quart fresh milk. To Make : Wet the nibs or shells with a little cold water; stir into the boiling water, and cook one hour and a half; strain, put in the milk; let it heat almost to boiling, and take from the fire; sweeten to taste, and serve hot. CAFÉ AU LAIT-No. 103. 1 pint strong, freshly made, hot coffee, 1 pint boiling milk. To Make : Pour the coffee from the grounds through a strainer or thin muslin; add the milk, and set the pot where it will keep hot for five minutes before pouring it out. Russian tea is iced tea with lemon to taste added. Serve with sliced lemon and powdered sugar. Stock and Soup. GENERAL DIRECTIONS—No. 104. In boiling meat for soup, always use soft, cold water, because this acts on the fibre, etc., of the meat, and releases all the juices. Boil slowly after giving the soup the first start. It is cooked in order to extract all the nourishing properties of the meat. Many of these are destroyed by a high degree of heat; therefore it is that we use cold water, and cook slowly. In order to do this, remove the soup- kettle to the back of the stove as soon as it begins to bubble; let it simmer there until done, which will be in from four to eight hours, according to the quantity of soup boiled. Stock is the foundation of all meat soups and gravies. It is a good plan to make this the day the ironing is done, as there must then be a good fire all day. It is best and clearest made from lean, uncooked meat, but may be made from the remains of roasts, fowls, the trimmings of steak, or from any nicely kept remnants of meat or fowls. It would be well if American housewives could be induced to adopt the English “stock pot” or the French "pot au feu." These are kept constantly on the kitchen fire, and into them go all the clean remnants of food, to come out as a foundation for delightful soups and sauces. Many of the French dishes over which Americans rave are indebted to this "pot au feu' for their excel- lence. Stock—No. 105. 8 pounds lean, juicy beef, 8 quarts soft, cold water, 2 small onions, 2 carrots, 2 stalks celery, 1 turnip, 1 bunch herbs, 12 cloves, 1 tablespoon salt. To Make: Wash the beef with a clean, wet cloth; cut it into small pieces, rejecting all fat; put it in a soup-kettle; cover with the water; place on the back of the stove; keep there, closely covered, for one hour; then draw it forward over the fire; when the steam and bub- bles begin to form, remove it to a cooler part of the stove, where it will simmer, not boil, for four hours. At the end of that time add the vegetables, properly prepared (that is, washed and peeled); sim- INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 49 mer two hours longer, and strain through a piece of cheese-cloth wrung out of cold water; add the salt, and put at once in a cold place. In four or five hours a fine, firm jelly will be formed and all the grease will be in a cake on top. Remove this, and the stock is ready for use. If not perfectly clear, clarify it as hereafter directed for clear soup (No. 114), but it is then a stimulant rather than a food, having lost most of its valuable properties. It is impossible to have a very clear soup a very nutritious one. Mixed Stock-No. 106. 8 pounds beef shin, or its equiva- 1 bunch herbs, lent in weight of the remains of 1 tablespoon salt, roasts, fowls, etc., 2 carrots, 7 quarts soft, cold water, 1 turnip, 2 small onions, 12 cloves, 2 stalks celery. To Make : Follow receipt for stock No. 105. BEEF'S-HEAD STOCK-No. 107. 1 beef's head, 1 gallon cold water, 1 bunch herbs, 1 onion, 11 teaspoon salt, 12 cloves, 1 teaspoon pepper, 1 tablespoon Worcester sauce. To Cook : Clean the head very carefully by directions for cleaning a calf's head (No. 120). Put it on to boil in the water, adding onion, herbs, salt, and pepper. Boil slowly until the meat drops from the bonės. Take it off; chop fine; add the Worcester sauce; reduce the water in which the head was boiled to one quart of stock. Mix thoroughly with the chopped meat; press into a mould, and keep in a cold place. When needed for soup, dissolve one-half pound of the stock in one quart of water. Boil up once after dis- solving. Add any seasoning preferred, and serve hot. This is very much like mock-turtle soup. VEGETABLE SOUP Made with Stock-No. 108. Measure the stock and water; mix as directed for clear soup (No. 114); put over a slow fire to heat up; have ready cooked such vege- tables as you intend using in the soup; let them be perfectly done, and chop into small pieces; add these to the stock in the proportion 50 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. of one gill chopped vegetables to each pint of soup; boil up gently once after mixing, season to taste, and serve hot. In preparing soup for sick people, or those requiring a great deal of nourishment in a small quantity of food, use the stock alone without the addition of water. Meat and Vegetable Soup without Stock. 1 large shin or 4 pounds of lean 6 grains of allspice, meat, 1 teaspoon pepper or cayenne, 2 gallons cold water, 4 cloves, pint chopped carrot, 2 teaspoons salt, * pint chopped celery, 2 teaspoons brown sugar, pint chopped Irish potatoes, * pint chopped turnip, 2 tablespoons of four. To Make: Wash the meat with a wet cloth; cut it into small pieces; crack the bone (if you have bone), and tie it loosely in a muslin bag, putting spices in with bone, putting on to boil with cold water; after it begins to boil put back on the stove where it will simmer; cook until reduced to three quarts of water, then add the vegetables prepared, but not cooked; continue to boil until vegetables are perfectly done and soft; add the seasoning, thicken with the flour, butter and sugar, rubbed into a smooth paste; taste to see if properly seasoned, and serve very hot. When made from beef this is known as Old Virginia Beef Soup. Remove bones before serving the soup. TOMATO SOUP—No. 109. 1 gallon water, 1 large or 2 small onions, 1 shin of beef or veal, 2 stalks celery, or bunch of herbs, peck ripe tomatoes, 1 tablespoon of butter, 1 tablespoon of flour, or 1 gill of rice. To Make: Prepare the meat as directed above; put on the fire with the cold water, onions, herbs, and bones; chop the meat fine; add the tomatoes, which have been peeled and chopped; taking out the cores. If you use rice, wash and add this also. Continue to boil until the tomatoes are done. If you have not used rice, thicken with the flour and butter, rubbed into a smooth paste. If you have used rice, add butter alone; season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve hot. Remove bones before serving. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. PURE FRENCH CONSOMMÉ—No. 110. 4 pounds lean beef, washed ac- 1 bunch parsley roots, well cording to directions, washed, 2 good-sized carrots, peeled, 1 bay leaf, 2 sound onions, peeled, salt to taste, 4 gallons cold stock, a few stalks celery, washed and 1 quart cold water, scraped, 6 cloves, the whites and shells of six eggs, 18 whole pepper corns. To Make : Mix all well together, except the whites and shells of the eggs; moisten with the cold water, and then add the stock. Mix all thoroughly in the soup-kettle before placing on the fire. If you have any remains of cold chicken or fresh meat or sweet ham, add it; boil slowly for four hours; skim the grease off thor- oughly; strain; add the well-beaten whites and crushed shells of the eggs; boil slowly up once more. When the egg shells, etc., boil to one side, remove them with a spoon; strain through a wet cloth into a china bowl or stone jar; taste to see if properly seasoned. It may be served immediately, or kept in a cool place for future use, when it should be heated without boiling. MULLAGATAWNY Soup-No. 111. 1 onion, curry powder to taste, 1 carrot, a small quantity of Mullagatawny 1 ounce butter, paste, 1 pint water, salt and pepper to taste, 3 stalks of celery, scraps of cold meat, or chicken, it 1 slice of ham, desired, 3 pints of stock. To Make: Cut into small pieces the carrot, onion, celery, and ham; put into a saucepan with the butter, and stir over a moderate fire until they begin to color; add to this the cold water; stir all well together, and let it come to a boil; put in a soup-kettle, and stir in, very slowly, the stock; let it simmer one-half hour; season with salt and pepper; mix the curry and paste into a smooth batter with cold water or stock; add to the soup slowly, stirring it constantly; taste to see if properly seasoned; serve hot, with the addition, if you like, of the cold meat or chicken cut into little blocks. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. Chicken Soup—No. 112. 1 large chicken, 2 tablespoons butter, 1 gallon cold water, 1 bunch of herbs, if agreeable, pint of rice, salt and pepper to taste. To Make: Cut up the chicken and remove all the fat; put on the fire in a soup-kettle with the cold water; boil until the water is re- duced to one-half; wash the rice and add it to the soup; boil until the rice is done; season with salt, pepper, and butter; remove the herbs (if herbs have been used), and serve hot. If this soup is pre- ferred without rice, use two tablespoons of flour mixed with the butter, and one-half pint milk to thicken the soup. For sick per- sons it is best oftentimes to use no thickening; simply boil down the soup to one quart, and season with butter, milk, salt, and pepper, if pepper is allowed. OYSTER SOUP—No. 113. 1 quart oysters, 2 tablespoons butter, 2 tablespoons flour, 1 quart milk or cream, salt and pepper to taste. To Make: Strain the oyster liquor into one kettle, washing the oysters after straining off the liquor; put the milk in a double boiler; put both oyster liquor and milk on the fire; let both come to a boil; . drop the oysters into the liquor, stirring in the milk slowly; thicken with butter and four, according to directions; season with salt and pepper, and serve hot. If you wish this soup richer, beat, until light, two eggs, and add to the thickening. Great care is neces- sary, however, to prevent the eggs curdling. Clear Soup—No. 114. When you wish to make soup from stock remove any particles of grease remaining on it; measure one gill of stock to each person to be served with soup; measure half the quantity of water as of stock; dissolve the stock by gradually adding the boiling water; if this is not as clear as you like, beat up the whites of two eggs, crush the shells, and mix with one-half pint of cold water for each quart of soup; stir the eggs and shells into the melted stock, put over a slow fire, and let it come to a boil; when the eggs, etc., have boiled to one side of the kettle remove all this with a spoon; strain through a cheese-cloth wrung out of cold water, taste to see if properly sea- soned, add what is necessary, and serve very hot. If you like it, INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 53 wine can be added to the seasoning, and if the color is not dark enough one teaspoon of caramel No. 123 may be added. Crôutons are nice served with this soup. TEA AND LUNCH BOUILLON—No. 115. 1 pound lean, juicy beef, 2 quarts cold water, 1 stalk celery, 2 carrots, 1 gill cold water, 1 onion, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 egg, 1 teaspoon white pepper, 6 cloves. To Make : Wash the beef with a clean, wet cloth; remove all fat and skin; cut in small pieces; cover with the two quarts of cold water; put in a soup-kettle and set on the back of the stove closely covered for one hour; stick the cloves in the onion; wash and scrape carrots and celery; slice these vegetables into the kettle containing the meat and water; draw it to a hotter part of the stove and leave it there until steam and bubbles begin to form, then return to the back of the stove, and let it simmer until reduced one-half; strain through a cheese-cloth, wrung out of cold water; beat the white of the egg to a stiff froth; mix it with the crushed shell and the gill of cold water; stir this into the bouillon, and return the whole to the fire. When the egg, etc., boils to one side of the kettle, remove it with a spoon; strain again, adding salt, and if you wish it sherry wine (one gill). Serve hot or iced. If the color is not rich enough, you may add one teaspoon of caramel No. 123. Quick BOUILLON—No. 116. 1 pound lean, juicy beef, 1 quart cold water, I teaspoon salt, carrot, } teaspoon white pepper, } onion and skin, stalk celery, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 gill cold water, 4 cloves, 1 gill sherry wine, if liked, 1 egg, 1 teaspoon caramel. To Make : Prepare the beef exactly as directed for lunch bouillon; prepare the vegetables in the same way; put the butter in the bottom of a kettle; when it is hot, add all the vegetables; stir over the fire until brown, using also the skin of the onion; pour on this the beef and water already prepared. Put the kettle where it will come to a boil; when the steam and bubbles form, remove to a 54 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. cooler part of the stove. Let it simmer three-quarters of an hour; strain, and finish exactly as directed (No. 114), not using the caramel unless necessary; usually the carrot and browned onion color the bouillon sufficiently. White STOCK—No. 117. A 4-pound chicken or a shin 4 quarts soft, cold water, of veal weighing 4 pounds, 1 teaspoon white pepper, 1 teaspoon salt. To Make: Wash carefully, as before directed; remove all fat, cut the meat into small pieces, crack the bones and lay them at the bottom of the kettle; put the meat on top of the bones, cover with the water, set on the back of the stove for one hour, then draw to a hotter place; when the steam and bubbles form remove to a part of the stove where the soup will simmer, not boil; cook until the chicken or meat comes to pieces and looks like rags; strain through cheese- cloth wrung out of cold water; add salt and pepper, and put imme- diately in a cold place (in hot weather on the ice). In a few hours a fine, firm jelly will be formed. Remove the grease from the top and use for soups, gravies, or as jelly. GUMBO Soup—No. 118. 1 large chicken, 1 onion, with skin, 2 quarts of sliced okra, 2 quarts peeled tomatoes, 1 gallon boiling water, without the juice, 1 small pod red pepper, 1 dozen ears corn, 3 slices of sweet middling, 1 tablespoon salt. To Make: Fry the chicken, okra, and onion with the middling, in the bottom of the kettle in which you intend boiling the soup; all must be fried until the okra is of a dark-green color; add the boiling water to this; put on the fire where it will simmer, not boil. When the soup has been simmering two hours, add the tomatoes, chopped, and the corn, cut from the ear, also pepper and salt; continue to cook until you cannot distinguish the vegetables; take out bones, skins of onion and pepper, and serve very hot. This soup is very nice, and can be made from the remains of a dish of fried chicken, thus using those parts which are generally left. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 55 SOUP À LA REINE-No. 119. 1 chicken weighing 4 pounds, 1 gill rice, raw, } pint good cream, 3 tablespoons butter, 1 small onion, 2 tablespoons flour, teaspoonful salt, 1 blade mace, 1 gallon soft, cold water, 4 cloves teaspoon white pepper. To Make: Clean the chicken nicely; put it in the soup-kettle, whole, with the water, rice, mace, and clove; cover the kettle and simmer gently three hours; melt the butter and rub into it the flour; get this perfectly smooth and stir into the soup; if any grease rises on top of the kettle, remove it; take out the chicken when it is done and tender; remove the skin; chop the white meat very fine and put it back into the soup; take out the onion and spices and press the rest through a sieve; wash the kettle; return the soup to it; add the cream, salt, and pepper; boil up once and serve. One gill of sherry wine may be added if you choose. Calf's HEAD OR Mock-TURTLE Soup-No. 120. 1 call's head, 1 pound of calf's liver, 2 slices of sweet ham, 1 pound lean veal, 1 bunch herbs, 6 quarts cold water, 2 ounces browned flour, 1 onion, pint mixed catsups, 1 lemon, 1 gill sherry wine. To Make: Have the head scraped instead of skinning it; wash the head well through three or four waters, being very particular to cleanse thoroughly the throat and nasal passages; after getting it perfectly clean, scald it and soak fifteen minutes in cold water. Be- fore cleaning it split the head and remove the brains; when perfectly clean put it into a soup-kettle with the cold water, the liver, ham, veal, herbs, and onion; bring it slowly to a boil and let it simmer for four hours, skimming it carefully until no more skum arises; continue to boil one hour longer, or until the meat loosens from the bones; take out all the meat, onion, and spices, and put the soup aside to cool in order to remove all grease; take all the meat from the head, chop it and the liver. If the head is a large one it will not be necessary to use the veal. Return one-half of the chopped meat to the soup reserving the other for the force meat balls; add 56 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. to the soup salt, pepper, catsups, the rind of the lemon, peeled very thin, and the lemon juice; return to the fire and let it simmer while the brains, force meat balls, and two hard-boiled eggs are prepared. Make force meat balls by direction No. 122. Peel and slice the eggs, make the brains into little cakes with one egg, beaten light, one tablespoon of flour, one-quarter teaspoon of salt, and one-eighth teaspoon pepper; fry, and keep hot until serving time. When the soup has come to a boil thicken it with the browned flour and butter rubbed together until perfectly smooth. Let the soup boil up once after thickening. Put the force meat balls, sliced eggs, and brains in the bottom of a hot tureen, take the lemon peel out of the soup, stir in the wine, pour the soup into the tureen, and serve very hot. Ox-Tail Soup— No. 121. 2 ox tails, 1 carrot, 1 turnip, 2 tablespoons butter, 1 onion, 2 quarts cold water or stock, 4 cloves, salt and pepper to taste. To Make: Wash and wipe the ox tails; cut them into pieces about one inch long; put the butter into a frying-pan; when hot, throw in the ox tails and stir until they brown; then skim them out; put them into a soup-kettle with the onion, cloves, carrot, turnip, and water or stock (the latter is best); simmer until the tails are tender, about two hours; remove the vegetables; add salt and pepper, and serve. If you use wine, one gill of sherry. FORCE MEAT BALLS—No. 122. 1 cup of meat, chopped fine, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, ☆ tablespoon black pepper, 1 tablespoon flour, 1 raw egg, the grated peel of of a lemon. To Make: Mix well and form into little balls; fry in hot butter or lard. CARAMEL—No. 123. To Make: Put one cup of granulated sugar into an iron skillet; stir it over the fire until it melts and smokes; as soon as it begins to smoke and boil, add one cup of boiling water; stir, and let it boil one minute; put into a bottle and cork tightly, to be kepı or coloring soups, etc. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 57 OYSTER BOUILLON—No. 124. 1 pint oyster liquor, 1 pint sweet cream, 1 teaspoon salt, $ teaspoon white pepper, 1 teaspoon butter, 1 light teaspoon corn starch. To Make: Strain the oyster liquor; put it in a saucepan on the fire; heat the cream in a double boiler; when the oyster liquor boils stir the hot cream into it very gradually; rub the butter and corn starch together until very smooth; stir this into the bouillon; add pepper and salt, and serve very hot. The best way of adding the butter and corn starch to the bouillon is as follows: Mix the butter and corn starch together until perfectly smooth; add a very small quantity of bouillon to the paste; stir until perfectly smooth; add a little more and stir, and so continue until the paste is thin enough to pour back into the saucepan. Do this very gradually, stirring constantly. This is known as thickening. Clam Soup—No. 125. 3 dozen clams, 2 quarts water, 1 ounce butter, 1 pint milk or cream, 1 ounce flour, 1 egg, if desired, salt and pepper. To Make: Scrub the clams very clean with a brush; put them in a kettle; cover with the water, and cook until the shells open. With a sharp knife cut each clam from its shell and drop into the water in which they were boiled; let them come to a boil, and finish like oyster soup (No. 113). RICE SOUP_No. 126. 2 tablespoons raw rice, 1 quart stock, 1 teaspoon celery salt, $ teaspoon white pepper. To Make: Wash and pick the rice; put it into a saucepan with one pint of boiling water; boil until done; drain and add to boiling stock; let the whole boil five minutes; add salt and pepper and serve. Barley, macaroni, noodles, etc., can be used instead of rice, with the addition of any seasoning liked. CREAM OF ASPARAGUS Soup—No. 127. 1 bunch asparagus, 1 tablespoon butter, 2 even teasmoons of corn starch $ teaspoon white pepper, or flour, 1 quart milk, 1 teaspoon salt. 58 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. To Make: Wash the asparagus; tie it in a bunch; put it in a saucepan of boiling water; boil gently twenty or thirty minutes; take it from the water; cut off the tops; put them aside until wanted; put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler; press the asparagus stalks through a colander; add this to the milk; rub the butter and corn starch, or flour, together until smooth; add to the boiling milk and stir constantly until it thickens; now add the asparagus tops, salt, and pepper. This soup may be varied by using one pint of white stock and one pint of milk instead of the one quart of milk. CREAM OF CELERY SOUP-No. 128. 3 stalks and roots of celery, or 6 teaspoon white pepper, roots, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 quart milk, 2 tablespoons flour, 1 pint water, 1 teaspoon salt. To Make: This soup is made exactly like asparagus soup (No. 127), except that the tops of the celery are not put in the soup. Indeed, all vegetables may be made into cream soups by this receipt, varying the seasoning. White stock may be substituted for milk or mixed with it. CREAM OF Corn Soup—No. 129. 1 pint grated corn, 3 tablespoons butter, 3 pints white stock, or water in 2 even tablespoons flour, which the corn-cobs have been yolk of 2 eggs, boiled, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 pint hot milk, $ teaspoon pepper. To Make: Put the cobs from which you have removed the corn in the water and boil slowly half an hour; remove them; put in the corn and boil until very soft (about twenty minutes), then press it through a sieve, season and let it simmer while you rub the butter and flour together; thicken the soup with these; beat the yolks of the eggs, add to the boiling milk, stir into the soup, and serve im- mediately. Potato Soup—No. 130. 4 good-sized potatoes, 1 stalk celery, 1 piece of onion the size of a 1 quart milk, silver quarter, 1 bay leaf, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 sprig parsley, 1 tablespoon flour, salt and pepper to taste. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 59 To Make: Put the potatoes on to boil in one quart of cold water. When they are half-done (about fifteen minutes) drain all the water off and cover them again with one pint of fresh, boiling water; add the bay leaf, onion, parsley, and celery, and boil until the potatoes are done; put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler; press the pota- toes through a sieve or vegetable press; rub the butter and flour together and stir into the boiling milk until it thickens; pour over this the potatoes; stir until smooth, and serve immediately. This soup cannot stand or be warmed over. BLACKEYE-PEA SOUP_No. 131. 1 quart peas, 1 pound sweet bacon, or one 1 tablespoon butter, ham bone, 1} teaspoons salt, 1 tablespoon browned flour, 1 teaspoon black pepper, 1 gill walnut catsup, or 4 quarts cold water, 1 gill Worcester sauce. To Make: Wash the peas well in cold water and soak them over- night; early in the morning drain off the water and cover with the cold water; boil until tender; press through a sieve; wash the kettle; return the soup to it and bring it to a boil; rub butter and flour together until perfectly smooth, and thicken the soup; add salt, pep- per, and catsup, or Worcester sauce. Serve hot with crôutons. TOMATO OR Mock BISQUE SOUP—No. 132. 1 pint tomatoes, measured after 1 quart milk, cooking, 1 tablespoon of butter, teaspoon cooking soda, salt and pepper to taste. To Mix: Stew the tomatoes and press them through a colander; add to them the soda previously dissolved in a tablespoon of boiling water; boil the milk, and thicken it with the butter and flour rubbed into a smooth paste (thicken according to directions given); add the strained tomatoes very slowly to the thickened milk; stir well, and serve very hot with crôutons or small crackers. Should you be obliged to keep this soup waiting, keep the milk and tomatoes separate, and mix just before the time of serving. Cream soup may be made from any vegetable by this receipt, using the vegetable preferred and not using the soda. The only purpose of the soda being to prevent the acid of the tomato from curdling the milk. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. BEEF TEA FOR INVALIDS—No. 133. For this purpose select lean, juicy meat from a fat beef; remove every particle of fat; cut it into small pieces after washing it with a damp cloth. Put it in a double boiler with one-half pint of cold water to each pound of meat. Let it stand two hours covered, then, with a fork, press the meat and pour off the water. Leave this in a cold place; put the beef just as it is in the tin of cold water, and let it boil slowly until the meat looks like rags; strain off the juice of the beef, and mix with it that you have strained from the beef before cooking. Season to the taste of the patient, and serve hot or cold as preferred. BEEF TEA FOR EXTREME CASES—No. 134. Prepare the beef as before directed; put it in the double boiler, or a close jar; put the jar or boiler in the tin of cold water, and let it boil slowly until all the juice is extracted from the beef, and the beef looks like rags; strain; season according to the doctor's directions, and serve hot or cold as the patient prefers. The best part of the beef for tea comes from the tender part of the round (unsalted, of course). - - - -- - - - Fish. How to SELECT FISH–No. 135. In fresh fish the eyes should be bright, the gills of a fine, red color, the body stiff, and the flesh firm yet elastic. When all these marks are reversed the fish is not fresh, and you had best not buy it; but should you be so unfortunate as to get hold of fish not perfectly fresh, use a little cooking soda in the water you wash it in. Should this fail to remove any disagreeable odor, etc., throw it away. There is nothing more unhealthy than over-kept fish. Clean fish with the most scrupulous nicety. Handle lightly, and never throw it about so as to bruise it. Wash it well, but do not leave it longer in the water than necessary, for, like meat, it loses its flavor by being soaked. When the scales are to be removed, lay the fish flat upon its side and hold it firmly with the left hand, while the scales are scraped off with the right hand; turn it and repeat the operation on the other side. When both sides are clean, pour sufficient cold water over the fish to float off all the loose scales. Should they be hard to come off, a little vinegar rubbed on will loosen them. The outside of the fish being perfectly clean, proceed to open and empty, throwing away all intestines, etc.; but where there is roe, keep and clean that. Having cleaned the fish perfectly, hang them in a cool place by the heads until ready to cook. All large fish are better boiled or baked; small ones, broiled or fried. BOILED FISH–No. 136. Use boiling water, in which put four ounces of salt, one table- spoonful of vinegar, and a piece of saltpetre the size of an English pea to each gallon of water. When the water is boiling put in the fish on the rack if you have a fish kettle; if you have no fish kettle use a shallow kettle or a deep pan, wrapping the fish in a floured cloth prepared thus: Wring the cloth out of boiling water, spread it on the pastry board and sift over flour enough to coat the cloth. Place the fish in this cloth, double the sides of the cloth, fold the ends into a point and secure with a large pin or skewer. Place gently in the pan and boil slowly from five to fifteen minutes per pound, according to the size of the fish. A short time for a small INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 63 one and a longer time for a large one. Look at the fish every now and then. When the meat leaves the bone freely the fish is done. This is to be ascertained by lifting with a fork the meat at the shoulder, or just where the head joins the body of the fish. Take it from the water carefully, so as not to break it. This is done by lifting the rack of a fish kettle, or, if you have no fish kettle, lifting the end of the cloth. Place the rack across the boiler, or, if you have used a cloth, lay it on a platter and put it across a kettle or pan to keep hot and to drain. Slide the fish on the dish, and serve very hot; garnish or not, as you prefer, and serve with any sauce suitable for fish. The best fish for boiling are sheep's-head, rock, pike, bonito, blue-fish, and large trout. BAKED Fish–No. 137. Prepare as for boiling; dust well with salt, pepper, and flour. Either lard the fish or lay a buttered paper over it. Pour in the bottom of the pan one-half pint boiling water, and baste the fish fre- quently to prevent its becoming too dry. About the same length of time is required to bake a fish as to boil it, and the same test as to its being done is used for baked as for boiled fish. Serve hot with or without sauce. The best fish for baking are sheep's-head, rock, pike, bonito, blue-fish, and large trout. The fish may be stuffed with a force meat (No. 375). FRIED Fish—No. 138. Clean according to directions. If the fish are very thick, split them and fry them open, but a fish that is not very thick and large should be cooked without splitting. Dust lightly with four, salt, and pepper. Put into a kettle of boiling lard or bacon essence, cottolene, or whatever you intend frying with. Before putting in the fish test the grease by putting in a slice of bread about the size of the fish you intend frying. If it browns this quickly, it is right for frying the fish. Put in a few fish at a time, either immediately into the grease or in a frying basket. When perfectly done, which is to be ascertained by running a fork into the shoulder as already de- scribed in boiled fish, take the fish out and put them on a piece of blotting paper in a pan where they will keep hot but not burn. Serve on a hot dish, garnished or not as preferred. The best fish for frying are hog-fish, spot, trout, and croakers. 64 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. BROILED FISH–No. 139. Prepare the fish as for frying. Have a griddle or broiler hot; butter it and put on the fish to be broiled; keep it over a very hot fire until both sides are browned, turning it frequently; then reduce the strength of the fire, and cook more slowly until thoroughly done; butter well, and serve on a hot dish with or without a garnish, or it may be served with a maître d'hotel sauce. The best fish for broiling are hog-fish, spot, trout, and croakers. Large fish should be split for broiling. FILLETS OF FISH–No. 140. Cut the fish into pieces about five inches long and four inches wide, tapering to a point at each end; each piece should be three- quarters of an inch thick; put them in a buttered pan; cover them with any kind of sauce you like, on top of which sprinkle bread crumbs; cover with small bits of butter; put in the oven until well browned; place one-half pint of sauce allemande in a saucepan with the addition of a wineglass of sherry; boil ten minutes; pour around the fish, and serve very hot. FISH STEAKS, MAÎTRE D'HOTEL—No. 141. 2 pounds of any large, firm fish, 1 gill maître d'hotel sauce (No. 343), teaspoon salt, teaspoon white pepper. To Cook : Cut the steaks three-quarters of an inch thick, lay on dish, and season with salt and pepper; rub well with two table- spoons of sweet oil or butter; lay it on a buttered double broiler, place the broiler over a brisk fire, and broil for eight or ten min- utes on each side, turning frequently, so as to prevent the fish burn- ing. Serve on a hot dish, with the sauce poured over the fish. FRESH MACKEREL, BOILED—No 142. 2 good-sized mackerel, } teaspoon white pepper, 1 teaspoon salt, 2 tablespoons sweet oil or butter. To Cook : Prepare carefully, and split the mackerel; remove the spine; score the fish slightly, and rub them with the oil or butter; season with the salt and pepper. Broil them in a buttered broiler over a brisk fire for ten minutes on the split side and two minutes on the skin side. Serve on a hot dish with or without sauce; or, if preferred, serve with parsley and slices of lemon. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 65 Salt MACKEREL—No. 143. Soak the fish in a large pan of cold water overnight. In the morning scrape all the thin black skin from the inside, wash care- fully in fresh water and wipe dry. Broil exactly as directed for fresh mackerel, except being careful to turn more frequently, as it burns very quickly. BREADED FISH–No. 144. 2 pounds of any kind of fresh fish, } teaspoon pepper, pint dried bread crumbs, 1 egg, 1} teaspoons salt, fat for frying. To Cook : Clean the fish as directed, free it from skin and bone carefully, so as not to break the meat. This can be done by first taking off the skin, head and tail; then with a thin, sharp knife begin at the top, and run the knife down the spine between the two sides of the fish; work the knife along gently until the upper side of the fish is loosened; take this off; it is then an easy matter to remove the spine, etc.; in the same way from the lower side. Cut it into handsome pieces of suitable size; season with the salt and pepper. Beat the egg with one tablespoon of cold water until mixed. Dip each piece of fish in the egg, then roll in the bread crumbs. Fry in boiling fat according to directions for frying. SCALLOPED FISH–No. 145. 1 pint cooked fish, 1 tablespoon flour, 11 teaspoons salt, 1 pint milk, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 teaspoon pepper, 4 tablespoons bread crumbs. To Cook: Use any kind of cold, cooked fish, but the white kinds are nicest; have it broken into flakes and freed of bones and skin; season with half the salt and pepper; put the butter in a small pan and set it on the fire; when it is hot, add the flour and stir until the mixture is smooth and frothy; then gradually add the milk; boil up once, and stir in the remainder of the salt and pepper; put a layer of this sauce in a buttered baking dish, then a layer of the fish, and so continue until all the fish and sauce are used; sprinkle the top of the dish with the bread crumbs and dot with little bits of butter. Bake in a moderate oven for twenty minutes, and serve immediately. 5 66 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. FRESH Fish Cakes—No. 146. 1 pint cooked, fresh fish, 1 pint hot mashed potato, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 teaspoon pepper, 1 teaspoon salt, lard to fry. To Cook : Free the fish from skin and bone, and chop it fine; Season with the salt and pepper; mash the potato smooth, and beat the butter and fish into it. Shape into cakes, and fry. Poisson GLACÉ—No. 147. Boil (No. 136) a large fish until done (sheep's-head or rock is the nicest for this purpose); chill the fish on ice; when it is cold and firm, cut off the head and tail; leave them on the ice while you remove the skin and bones from the body of the fish as directed in recipe No. 144. When the bones are all removed, sprinkle both sides of the fish with celery, salt, and white pepper; then place the head and tail where they belong, so as to form a whole fish. Cover with mayonaise dressing above where the head and tail are cut. This must be done on the dish on which the fish is to be served; garnish with parsley and sliced lemon. SMELTS—No. 148. To clean them, make a slight opening at the gills, then draw them between the thumb and fingers, beginning at the tail. This will press out all the intestines. Wash and wipe them; sprinkle them with salt; dip first in beaten eggs, then bread crumbs, and fry in boiling fat. Garnish with parsley and slices of lemon, and serve with sauce Tartare. The lard used for frying should always be strained in a stone jar or crock while hot. It can be used repeatedly. BAKED SHAD_No. 149. Clean by directions No. 135, being very careful if there is roe not to break it. Wash well inside and immediately wipe dry; rub with salt; make a dressing by receipt No. 375, and stuff the body of the fish with it, sewing it up with a soft thread; lard one side of the fish, or score it with a sharp knife, making the scores about one inch apart, and put a strip of salt pork in each gash; butter a tin sheet, if you have one, and place it in the bottom of the baking-pan; put the fish on it (if you have no sheet, butter the bottom of the pan); dredge with salt, pepper, and flour; cover the bottom of the pan with boiling water and put into a hot oven; bake fifteen minutes to INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 67 every pound of fish, basting each ten minutes with the gravy in the pan; as the water evaporates, add more to again cover the bottom of the pan. When done, lift the tin sheet from the pan and slide the fish carefully into the centre of the dish in which it is to be served; garnish with sliced lemon, fried potato balls, and parsley; serve with any sauce preferred. FRIED SHAD—No. 150. Clean by directions No. 135. Cut off the head and tail; divide the fish into pieces of a suitable size, and fry. PLANKED SHAD–No. 151. The plank should be made of well-seasoned hickory or oak three inches thick, two feet long, and one and a half feet wide. Split a fine shad down the back, wash well and wipe dry (of course the fish has been previously cleaned). Dredge the fish with salt and pepper; place the plank before a clear fire to get very hot, then spread the shad open and nail it, skin side next the plank, with four large- headed tacks. Put it before the fire with the large end down; in a few minutes turn the plank so that the other end will be down, and so continue until the fish is done. Tell when it is done by piercing it with a fork. If the flesh is flaky, it is done. Spread with butter, and serve on the plank, or draw the tacks and slide the shad on a dish. This is a particularly nice way to cook fish for hunting or fishing parties. BROILED SHAD–No. 152. Clean by directions (No. 135). Split the shad down the back, and broil like mackerel (No. 144). All large fish are broiled in this way, and served with or without sauce, as preferred. The roe of shad can be fried, baked, broiled, etc., just as any small fish. CREAMED Shad Roes—No. 153. 1 pair shad roe, juice of } of a lemon, 3 eggs, 1 tablespoon butter, * pint milk, 1 tablespoon flour, 3 dashs of cayenne, 1 gill cream, 1 teaspoon salt. To Cook : Boil the roes; drop them in cold water to blanch; skin and slice them. Mix with them the eggs, boiled hard and chopped coarsely; add to these the lemon juice, half the salt and pepper, 68 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. then stir in the cream; make the milk, butter, and flour into a cream sauce; season with the remainder of pepper and salt. When the sauce is thick and smooth, stir in the roes. Cook three minutes longer, and serve hot. Fresh HERRING—No. 154. Fresh herring may be fried or broiled as other fish, but are best made into a dish called CAVENAUGH—No. 155. 6 herring, 1 teaspoon salt, 14 teaspoon ground allspice, 1 teaspoon ground cloves, 3 teaspoons salt, vinegar enough to cover the fish. To Cook: Clean the fish by directions No. 135; remove the roes, if there be any; wash and dry fish and roes; mix salt and spices, and with them rub the outside and inside of the fish, also the roes; place the fish in a long earthen baking dish; cover with the vinegar, and bake in a slow oven until done. Serve cold, with or without olive oil. Any small fish, or a large fish sliced, may be cooked in this way. This is a very nice relish for tea or lunch, and is obtainable in the spring, when everything is scarce. Salt HERRING—No. 156. Wash thoroughly. A very nice way to do this is to use a small, rather soft, brush. Herring may be soaked or not, as preferred. Fry or broil as directed (No. 139). Always leaving in the roes, not opening the fish at all. If one tablespoon of vinegar is added to each three pints of cold water in which salt fish is soaked it will freshen and improve it very much. Milk is also sometimes used for this purpose, but in these days of shreaded fish, etc., these directions are almost unnecessary. STEWED Salt Cod-Fish–No. 157. 2 cups picked cod-fish, 1 scant teaspoon salt, 1 large tablespoon butter, 1 pint milk, 1 even tablespoon flour, yolk of 1 egg, $ teaspoon pepper. To Cook: Cover the fish with cold water, and let it soak two hours; drain, cover with lukewarm water, and stand it on the back part of the fire where it will not get scalding hot. At the end of one INSTRUCTION IN COoking. 69 hour put into a colander, and drain off all surplus water, leaving it moist; then put into a stew-pan with the milk; let the fish and milk come to a boil, being careful not to let it scorch. Rub flour and butter together, and thicken with it; beat the yolk of the egg, and stir it in; add salt and pepper; stir constantly, and serve hot in small plates or on toast. Cod-Fish Balls—No. 158. 2 cups picked cod-fish, 1 teaspoon pepper, 1 tablespoon butter, 2 cups mashed pototoes, 1 gill cream. To Cook : Soak the cod-fish in cold water for half an hour, then drain, and pour over it enough boiling water to cover; let it stand on the back part of the stove for fifteen minutes; drain and press out all the water, then mix it with the potatoes, which should be well beaten; add all the other ingredients; beat well; form into balls, roll first in beaten egg, then in bread crumbs, and fry in boiling fat. In using prepared cod-fish it is well to observe the directions given on the package for soaking, etc. PICKLED FISH–No. 159. 6 pounds fish, 11 quarts of good vinegar, 1 onion, 12 whole cloves, 2 bay leaves, 12 pepper corns, 3 blades mace, 1 small red pepper, 1 tablespoon salt. To Prepare: Skin the fish, and if it is of an oily kind, such as sturgeon or salmon, let it soak in cold water for one-half hour. If the fish is not oily simply clean and wash it well in cold water. In either case, put it into a kettle, cover with boiling water, add a tea- spoon of salt, and boil fifteen minutes to every pound. If you have to cut the fish boil only ten minutes to every pound; when done drain, wipe dry, and stand in a cold place six or eight hours. At the end of that time (if the skin has not been removed before boil- ing: and it is difficult to do this with some fish) take off the skin and cut the meat into pieces of nice, convenient size. Put the vin- egar and all other ingredients into a porcelain kettle and bring them to a boil; drop the fish into this and let all boil up at once; rinse several self-sealing glass jars with hot water, take the fish from the kettle with a spoon, drop it rapidly into a jar until it will hold no 70 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. more; fill with the boiling vinegar to the brim, screw on the top, and stand aside out of the draught to cool. When cold wipe off each jar; put in a cool, dark, dry place. This keeps well, and is convenient to have on hand. STURGEON—No. 160. In buying sturgeon, always select it from a young, small fish. Unless it is very small, the cut about six or seven inches from the tail is best, but be careful not to get it so close to the tail as to be stringy. Lay the sturgeon in boiling salt and water for one-half hour, before cooking, to extract the oil. BAKED STURGEON—No. 161. 6 pounds sturgeon, 2 ounces breast bacon, 1 teaspoon pepper, 1 even teaspoon salt. To Cook: Prepare the sturgeon by skinning, washing, and soak- ing in boiling salt and water; cut the bacon into little strips and lard the sturgeon with it, or gash it and lay the strips of bacon in the gashes; dust lightly with the pepper and salt; place on a rack in a hot pan; pour one-half pint of boiling water (or better, stock,) into the bottom of the pan; put in a hot oven and bake, reducing the heat after the first fifteen minutes; baste frequently with the water and essence of the bacon. Serve hot. If preferred, the gashes in the sturgeon may be filled with a dressing prepared by direction No. 375. STURGEON STEAK—No. 162. 2 pounds sturgeon, 2 tablespoons melted butter, slices of lemon, 1 teaspoon salt, enough parsley to garnish, teaspoon black pepper. To Cook: Cut the steaks one inch thick; skin; wash well, and lay in boiling salted water; drain and wipe dry. Dredge with the salt and pepper, and broil over a clear fire in a buttered broiler or griddle. Serve with butter poured over, and garnish with lemon and parsley. STURGEON CUTLETS—No. 163. 2 pounds sturgeon, 2 ounces butter, pint cream or milk, 1 teaspoon of salt, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, } teaspoon pepper, 2 ounces flour. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. To Cook: Cut the slices three-quarters of an inch thick; sprinkle the salt on them and leave them for one hour (this instead of soak- ing in boiling salted water); drain well and wipe each cutlet dry. Flour and fry brown in the butter. Take them out when brown and put them in a dry pan to keep hot. Add to the butter left in the pan, in which you have tried the cutlets, the cream, pepper, and parsley, stirring constantly. Pour this gravy over the cutlets and serve hot. STURGEON PUDDING–No. 164. 1 pint cold, pickled sturgeon, 2 eggs, 1 pint milk, 3 ounces flour, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon pepper, 11 ounces butter. To Cook : Beat the eggs separately until very light; beat into the yolks first the flour; when this is perfectly smooth, the fish; add the milk gradually; beat in the butter, reserving enough to butter the baking dish; add salt and pepper. Give the whole a good beating, then beat in lightly the whipped whites. Put into the baking dish, and bake in a quick oven. STEWED EELS—No. 165. 6 nice eels, 1 bay leaf, 1 pint veal stock, 1 small onion, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 sprig parsley, 2 teaspoons flour, salt and pepper to taste. To Cook : Skin and clean the eels, cut off their heads, and cut into pieces about two inches long, put them into a stew-pan, cover with boiling water, add one tablespoon of vinegar, and simmer (not boil) for ten minutes; drain. Melt the butter, add to it the flour, mix well, and add all other ingredients; stir constantly until it boils; then put the eels in, and stew half an hour. When done dish the eels, strain the sauce over them, and garnish with crôutons fried in butter. FRIED EELS—No. 166. Skin and clean the eels. Cut them into pieces about three inches long, put them in a stew-pan, cover with boiling water; add one tablespoon of vinegar to every six eels; let them simmer (not boil) for five minutes. Drain, and dry them with a cloth. Beat an egg lightly, add to it a tablespoon of boiling water; season with salt and pepper; dip the eels first in this, then in bread crumbs, and fry in boiling oil or fat until a nice brown. Serve with sauce Tartare. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. SHRIMPS—No. 167. Of all fish belonging to the lobster species, shrimps are the smallest. They are of two kinds, the gulf shrimps, or prawns, being the largest. They are sold by the quart, already boiled, in some market; but in the northern cities the canned goods are convenient and very nice. BOILED SHRIMPS—No. 168. Wash and boil as crabs (recipe No. 175). When cold, twist the body and tail shells apart carefully, so as not to break the meat, which remove in one piece. Serve as crabs. FRIED FROGS LEGs—No. 169. The hind legs of frogs are the only part used as food. They are usually sold skinned in the market, but if you get them out of town, they must be skinned and thrown into boiling water for five minutes; take out and put in cold water until cold, then wipe dry. Season with salt and pepper; dredge with flour and fry a nice brown. Serve with fried parsley around them, or cream sauce. LOBSTERS, No. 170. Select the smaller lobsters that are heavy for their size. To Boil: Fill a kettle with boiling water; put in the lobster, head downwards; add a tablespoon of salt; cover the kettle and put it over a very quick fire. A medium-sized lobster should boil half an hour; a large one three-quarters. When done and cool, sepa- rate the tail from the body and twist off all the claws; shake out carefully the tom-alley (this is the liver, and may be known by its greenish color), also the coral. Then draw the body from the shell; remove the stomach, which is found immediately under the head, and throw this away. Split the body through the centre, and pick the meat from the cells. Cut the under side of the tail-shell; loosen the meat and take it out in one solid piece. Split the meat of the tail open and you will uncover a little vein running its entire length; remove this. The vein is not always the same color; some- times it is red, sometimes black, and sometimes white, but in all cases it must be carefully taken out and thrown away. The stomach, or lady, the vein, and spongy fingers between the body and shell are the only parts not eatable. Crack the claws and take out the meat. To serve plain boiled lobster, arrange the meat thus taken out in the centre of a cold dish, garnishing with the claws, sprigs of parsley, hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters, and pickled beets cut into fancy shapes. Let each person season to taste. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. LOBSTER Chops—No. 171. 2 cups boiled lobster, 3 tablespoons flour, 1 cup cream or milk, 1 tablespoon butter, * nutmeg, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, yolks of 2 eggs, salt and cayenne to taste. To Cook : Add all the seasoning to the lobster; put the cream, or milk, on to boil; rub the butter and flour together, and add to the cream, or milk, when boiling; add the beaten yolks; take from the fire, and add the lobster; mix well; turn out on a dish to cool; when cool form into chops; roll first in beaten egg, then in bread crumbs; put them in a frying basket, and fry in lard until a nice brown. It will take about two minutes. Drain, and arrange them on a hot dish. Garnish with parsley, and serve with cream or Tartare sauce. SCALLOPED LOBSTER-No. 172. 6 pounds lobster, 1 tablespoon flour, 1 large tablespoon butter, pint milk, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, 1 cup stale bread crumbs, salt and cayenne to taste. To Cook : Put the milk on to boil; rub the butter and flour to- gether, and stir into the milk when boiling; boil the lobster open as directed (No. 170), and cut the meat into dice. Put a layer of the white sauce (No. 356) in the bottom of a baking dish, then a layer of lobster; season with salt and cayenne, then a sprinkling of pars- ley and bread crumbs; then another layer of white sauce, and so on until all is used, having the last layer sauce sprinkled over with bread crumbs. Put in a quick oven fifteen minutes to brown. Serve in the dish. LOBSTER, WITH CREAM SAUCE—No. 173. 1 lobster, 3 pounds, 1 tablespoon butter, pint milk, 1 tablespoon flour, 5 mushrooms, salt and pepper to taste. To Cook : Boil and open the lobster as directed (No. 170); cut into dice. Put the butter in a frying-pan, and, when melted, add the flour; do not brown, but mix until smooth; add milk; stir con- stantly until it boils; add mushrooms, chopped fine, salt, and the lobster; stir until thoroughly heated. 74 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. LOBSTER À LA NEWBURG–No. 174. Meat from 2 large lobsters, 1 ounce butter, 1 teaspoon salt, 1-10 teaspoon cayenne, 1 gill Madeira wine, yolks 3 eggs, } pint cream. To Cook: Boil and open as directed (No. 170); cut the meat into pieces one inch long; put it in a saucepan on the fire with the butter; season with the salt and cayenne; cook for five minutes, then add the wine; stir over the fire until reduced to one-half; beat the eggs until very light; beat the cream into the eggs, and add to the lobster. Stir gently until it thickens, and serve hot. HARD CRABS—No. 175. Crabs, like lobsters, should be sold alive or boiled and should be heavy for their size. Drop the crabs, alive, into boiling water, salted, and if they are large, boil three-quarters of an hour. When done and cold twist off the claws, take off the upper shells, and remove the spongy substance and stomach; see that the under part is free from sand. If the crabs are to be served simply boiled, arrange on a flat dish, garnish with parsley, and serve with them oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper, allowing each person to season his own crab. Stomach is found under the head. DEVILED CRABS—No. 176. 12 nice heavy crabs, yolks of four eggs, * pound of butter, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 even tablespoon mustard, pint cream, pepper and cayenne to taste. To Cook: Boil and prepare the crabs as already directed. Pick them up, breaking the claws and taking all the meat from them; rub mustard and butter together, reserving one ounce of butter. Melt and mix thoroughly through the crab meat; beat the yolks of the eggs until very light, and mix with the meat the same way; add salt and pepper and, if you like, a few bread crumbs (but the crabs are better without). Clean the upper shells of the crabs; fill them with the mixture; sprinkle thickly with fine bread crumbs or cracker dust; cut the ounce of butter in little bits; drop them over the bread crumbs; put in a hot oven and brown. By adding one teaspoon of Worcester sauce and frying the mixture before filling the shells, this INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 75 dish is made richer. When fresh crabs are not obtainable, canned ones may be substituted where there is no prejudice felt against them. CREAMED CRABS—No. 177. 1 pint crab meat, 1 pint milk or cream, 2 tablespoons flour, 13 tablespoons butter, 1 teaspoon salt, $ teaspoon pepper. To Cook : Put the cream in a double boiler and let it come to a boil ; thicken with butter and flour; rub together until perfectly smooth; add salt and pepper; stir in the crab meat; let it boil up once. Serve hot in individual saucers. CRAB ON TOAST—No. 178. . 1 can crabs, or meat of 1 doz., 1 teaspoon butter, 1 gill cream, 1 teaspoon chopped celery, salt and cayenne to taste, 1 teaspoon flour. To Cook : Put the butter in a chafing dish or saucepan to melt; when melted add the crab meat and all the other ingredients. Stir and simmer until the moisture is almost evaporated; then place on thin slices of toast, sprinkle very little sherry over each portion, arrange a few oyster crabs on top of each, and serve very hot. CRAB LOAF—No. 179. 1 loaf bread, with crust on all $ teaspoon pepper, sides, 2 tablespoons butter, 1 pint crab meat, 1 level teaspoon salt, pint cream or milk, . 1 tablespoon flour. To Cook : Prepare the loaf, or, if you prefer, little individual loaves, by direction No. 193. Put the crabs in a stew-pan; add salt and pepper; heat the cream, and stir into it the butter and flour, mixed until very smooth; add this to the crabs; stir well. Fill the loaf with the crabs, put the top on, and serve hot. Soft-Shell Crabs—No. 180. The soft-shell crab is nothing more than a hard-shell crab after shedding its shell. In about three days the new shell begins to har- den again, which is the cause of the always short supply. Liſt the shell, and remove the spongy substance on both sides; then put your thumb nail under the point of the “apron,” and pull it off. 76 INSTRUCTION IN Cooking. The “apron" is a small, loose shell, running to a point in the mid- dle of the under shell. Wipe the crabs dry; if they are at all sandy, wash them before removing anything; dip in beaten eggs, and then in bread crumbs, and fry in boiling lard for ten minutes; when done drain a minute on soft brown paper; garnish with parsley, and serve. Soft Crabs FRIED IN BUTTER—No. 181. Clean the crabs as above directed; dust them with salt, pepper, and flour; put three tablespoons of butter into a frying-pan, and when hot, throw in the crabs; when brown on one side turn and brown on the other. Serve as above directed. Stewed Oyster Crabs—No. 182. 1 quart oyster crabs, 1 pint cream, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 tablespoon flour, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon pepper. To Cook: Put the crabs in a saucepan and the cream in a double boiler; cook the crabs five minutes and set them aside; when the cream boils, thicken with the butter and flour rubbed together until perfectly smooth; add salt and pepper, and stir over the fire until the cream thickens; add very gradually to the crabs, stirring well. Serve hot in a covered dish or individual dishes. Oysters—No. 183. Oysters to be good must be perfectly fresh and in their own liquor. The simplest way of serving them is raw, and the best is on the half-shell. ON THE HALF-SHELL-No. 184. Wash the shells well with a small scrubbing brush; open them carefully; take off the upper shell; detach the oyster from the under shell but leave it in the shell; put on an oyster or round plate and serve with a piece of lemon in the centre; serve four or six (accord- ing to size, but medium-sized oysters are the best to serve raw) to each person. SERVED IN A BLOCK OF ICE-No. 185. Select a clear block of ice about ten or twelve inches square; make a salamander, small griddle, or stove-lid very hot; place it in the centre of the block of ice until the space to be melted is dis- tinctly marked; repeat the operation until you have a round cavity large enough to receive the oysters; fill with fine, fresh oysters (not INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 77 too large); place on a folded napkin in a large, flat dish, and serve the oysters immediately from the ice. It may be ornamented or not, as preferred. STEWED OYSTERS—No. 186. 1 quart oysters, 1 tablespoon flour, 1 pint milk, 1 tablespoon butter, teaspoon pepper, 1 teaspoon salt. To Cook: Place a colander over a bowl; pour the oysters into it, shaking a little to let all the liquor run out; put the liquor over a mod- erate fire in a stew-pan; when the liquor boils, skim it and set it back while you heat the milk and prepare the oysters; do not wash them in water, but with your hand free them from all grit, pieces of shell, etc. If this does not clean them effectually, pour over them a little milk and wash them with that. When ready, drop the oysters into the liquor and return to the fire; rub the butter and flour together until perfectly smooth; add to it, very gradually, the hot milk, stirring all the time; when well mixed and perfectly smooth, turn into the stew-pan with the oysters, continuing to stir; put in salt and pepper, and serve hot. When the gills curl, oysters are done. OYSTERS ON Toast–No. 187. 1) pints oysters, 1-10 teaspoon pepper, 3 slices toast, 2 teaspoons butter, salt, teaspoon lemon juice. To Cook: Clean as directed; put the oysters in a frying-pan and set on the fire; when they begin to boil, skim them; add seasoning; have the toast arranged on a hot dish and pour the oysters over it. Serve at once. BAKED OYSTERS—No. 188. 1} solid pints oysters, 2 rounded tablespoons butter, 1 gill cracker or bread crumbs, I teaspoon pepper, 1 teaspoon salt. To Cook : Put half the oysters in a dish that will hold about one quart. Sprinkle over them half the salt and pepper, and half a tablespoon of butter broken in bits. Put in the remainder of the oysters, salt, pepper, and half a tablespoon of the butter; spread the cracker or bread crumbs over this, and then dot with the remaining tablespoon of butter. Pour the liquor on the cracker crumbs, and bake in a hot oven for half an hour. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. PANNED OYSTERS—No. 189. 25 large oysters, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 teaspoon salt, $ teaspoon pepper. To Cook : Prepare oysters as before directed. Put an iron frying- pan over a quick fire to heat; as soon as it is hissing hot throw in the oysters, and shake and stir until they boil; add salt, pepper, and the butter. Serve in a hot dish immediately. CREAMED OYSTERS—No. 190. 1) pints oysters, 1-5 teaspoon pepper, 3 gills milk or cream, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon flour. To Cook: Put the milk in a double boiler, and set on the fire; mix the flour and butter together until smooth and light, and stir into the boiling milk; cook for ten minutes; heat the oysters to the boiling point in their own liquor, then skim and drain them; put the oysters, salt, and pepper into the thickened cream, and serve very hot. OYSTERS TOASTED IN SHELLS—No. 191. 2 quarts oysters, 2 teaspoons salt, pound butter, 1 teaspoon pepper, 4 ounces bread crumbs. To Cook : Prepare the oysters as directed; put in the bottom of the shell a layer of oysters; mix the salt and pepper carefully; put them in a pepper box, sprinkle the oysters with this; then cover with little bits of butter; put another layer of oysters, then salt, pepper, and butter again. When the shell is full cover with bread crumbs, dot the top with little bits of butter; put in a moderate oven, and cook until done, from one-half to three-quarters of an hour, according to the size of the shells. Scalloped shells, here referred to, are hard to obtain, but are imitated in graniteware, tin, and silver, but nothing gives the oysters so fine a flavor as the natural shell. STEAMED OYSTERS—No. 192. Scrub the shells well with a brush; put them in a steamer, if you have one; if you have no steamer, lay them on the shelf of the oven with a pan of cold water underneath. Have a hot fire, but watch the oysters and take them out the moment they are done—this is when they open. Take off one shell; put on a hot dish, and serve with melted butter, salt, pepper, and lemon. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. OYSTER LOAF-No. 193. 1 quart fine oysters, 1 round loaf of bread, 1 gill cream, 1 even teaspoon salt, 2 tablespoons flour, teaspoon pepper, 2 tablespoons butter. To Cook : Cut the top from a stale loaf; remove the crumb; butter the inside of the loaf when the crumb has been taken out, also inside of the top piece; put it in a hot oven to brown. Cream the oysters as directed (No. 190); fill the loaf with the oysters; replace the top, and serve on a folded napkin in a hot dish. Instead of one large loaf, you may have little individual loaves. This is a pretty and a nice dish. OYSTER SAUTÉ—No. 194. 2 dozen large, plump oysters, 3 tablespoons melted butter, * pint oyster liquor, 2 tablespoons flour, 1 gill sherry, 1 teaspoon celery salt, 1 round loaf of stale bread, 1 teaspoon pepper, lard to fry with. To Cook: Wipe the oysters with a soft cloth; dip in the melted butter, then in flour; brown one tablespoon of the butter in a frying- pan; add the oysters; brown on one side; turn, and brown on the other; heat one cup of the oyster liquor and strain it over the oys- ters in the frying-pan; add salt and pepper; when ready to serve, stir in the sherry. Serve in a covered dish. DEVILED OYSTERS—No. 195. 25 nice fat oysters, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, yolks of two eggs, 1 tablespoon butter, $ pint cream, 2 tablespoons flour, salt and cayenne to taste. To Cook : Drain the oysters and chop them, not too fine, and drain again. Put the cream on to boil; rub the butter and flour together, and stir into the cream when boiling; as soon as it thickens, take it from the fire, and add all the other ingredients. Beat the yolks before adding them. Have the deep shells of the oysters washed perfectly clean; fill them with this mixture; sprinkle lightly with bread crumbs; put them in a baking-pan and brown in a quick oven for five minutes. Serve in the shells; garnish with parsley. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. Fried Oysters—No. 196. (For this purpose select large oysters.) 2 dozen oysters, 1 tablespoon milk, 1 egg, 1 teaspoon salt, 1-5 teaspoon pepper, 3 gills dried bread crumbs. To Cook : Drain the oysters; clean as before directed; spread on a linen cloth stretched on a pastry-board or kitchen table; sprinkle with salt and pepper, mixed; turn and sprinkle the other side. Have the bread crumbs in a large, flat pan or dish; mix with this some of the salt and pepper; beat the egg until the white and yolk is mixed, stirring the milk into it. Dip the oysters first in bread crumbs, then in the egg mixture and again in bread crumbs. Be sure that each oyster is well covered. Fry in boiling fat by direc- tions No. 583. BROILED Oysters—No. 197. Select large oysters; drain and clean as directed. Have the grid- dle hot; put on it a tablespoon of butter; if it hisses the griddle is hot enough. Sprinkle the oysters with salt and a little cayenne; lay them on the griddle and broil; turn frequently to prevent burn- ing; serve immediately on a hot dish, with lemon, if you like it. If preferred, the oysters may be put between a double broiler, well buttered, and broiled over a bed of coals. PICKLED OYSTERS—No. 198. 1 gallon large, fine oysters, 1 tablespoon salt, 1 ounce of whole pepper corns, 1 ounce mace, 1 ounce of little red pepper pods, 13 pints vinegar, 2 tablespoons lemon juice, or two sliced lemons. To Cook: Strain off the liquor; clean the oysters with the hand, as directed; wash the spices; when the liquor boils skim off all the frothy stuff, etc., which rises on top; drop in the oysters, salt, and spices; cook the oysters until the gills curl, they are then done. Skim them out with a perforated dipper, and drop them into a bowl of cold water. Let them remain in this ten minutes, skim out again, and spread on flat dishes. Add the vinegar to the oyster liquor. Put the oysters in a jar or vessel that can be closely covo ered, pour over the hot vinegar, cover closely, and leave twelve hours before using (even a longer time is better, if convenient). INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 81 The proportions of vinegar and salt are given correctly, as nearly as possible, but some oysters are so much salter than others, and the strength of vinegar so often varies, that it is best to use both cautiously, and be guided by your taste. Clams—No. 199. Wash the shells with a brush until perfectly clean; put the clams in a steamer over boiling water; when they open themselves they are done. Take off one shell, cut the clam from the other, and drop it into the liquor that has run from the clams while cooking. Save every drop of this. STEWED CLAMS—No. 200. Prepare as No. 199 and cook exactly by directions for stewing oysters (No. 186), being careful not to let them scorch. They can also be creamed and fried exactly like oysters (directions No. 190 and 196). STUFFED Clams-No. 2001. Chop and season exactly like deviled crabs (No. 176); fill the clam shells very full; sprinkle with bread crumbs; dot with little bits of butter; with a spoon pour over all the liquor that the meat will ab- sorb; put in the oven and brown. Clam CHOWDER—No. 201. 1 pint clams, 1 tablespoon minced onion, 1 pint water, 1 tablespoon flour, 1 pint milk, 2 teaspoons salt, 3 gills potato cubes, 1 teaspoon pepper, 2 ounces sliced salt pork, 3 Boston butter crackers. To Cook: Wash the clams in the water, and turn both into a strainer which has been placed over a bowl; cut the soft parts of the clams from the hard, and put away in a cold place; chop the hard parts fine and put them in a stew-pan; strain on these, through a piece of cheese-cloth, the clam water; after which, place it on the fire and cook gently for twenty minutes; fry the sliced pork for ten minutes; then add the onion, and cook ten minutes longer; take the pork and onions from the pan and add to the chopped clams; put the flour in the fat remaining in the pan, and stir until smooth and frothy; add this mixture to the clam broth and cook for ten minutes longer; put the potato cubes in a stew-pan and strain the clam 82 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. broth over them; season with the salt and pepper, and cook for twenty minutes; split the crackers and soak them in the milk; add the soft parts of the clams and milk and crackers to the cooking mixture. When all boils up once, serve. The milk may be omitted and one-half pint of strained tomato be added when the potatoes and broth have been cooking for ten minutes. There are two varieties of clams—the little necks and the mud clams. The first are very much the best. TERRAPIN-No. 202. Terrapins are always sold alive. The diamond-backs are the best, but are very expensive. Put the terrapins, alive, into boiling water and boil until you can pull off the outer skin and the toe-nails; put them back in fresh boiling water, to which add a heaping tea- spoon of salt, and boil slowly until the shells part easily and the flesh on the legs is tender; when done, take out; remove the under shell and let stand until cool enough to handle; then take them out of the upper shells; remove the sand-bags, bladders, the thick part of the intestines, and the gall-sacks (which are found imbedded in one lobe of the liver) and throw them away; in removing the gall- sack be very careful not to break it, as it would spoil the whole terrapin; break the terrapin into convenient-sized pieces; cut the small intestines into tiny pieces; break up the liver, also the eggs found in the terrapins. It is now ready for stewing. STEWED TERRAPIN–No. 203. 2 terrapins, pint thick cream, 6 eggs, 1 pound butter, 1 teaspoon mace, 1 gill sherry or Madeira, salt and cayenne to taste. To Cook: Prepare as above directed; put into a stew-pan with the juice the terrapin has given out while being cut; rub the butter and flour together until very smooth; add it to the terrapin and stand on a very moderate fire until heated; boil the six eggs for fifteen minutes; take out the yolks; mash to a smooth paste with two tea- spoons of cold water; add this, the cream, and seasoning to the ter- rapin; let it boil up once; take from the fire; add the wine, and serve. Never boil after adding the wine. Beef, Mutton, Lamb, and Veal. NANO e RUMP Portemonnet Bromoting Roasting Rum ch Ste ROUND lank on the Sirloin tom Thick end Stiching Roung Boneles MDddle Str! .. one CNC Butt Brisket Hind Shin BRISKET Fore Hind Quarter Beef Deel op Anchbone Best Middle of Rural Round Stesh, First Second CUC Tir end Sirloin Cut Round Steak of Sir total of. Sirloin. Shank OF pose or more Round Part Vein. vein FLANK. 86 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. Fore Quarter of Beef... First Five, Neck. Chuck Ribs. Prime Ribs. RAND. Sticking Piece. SHOULDER. RAND or BRISKET BRISKET. I BRISKET. SHIN. Never put meat into the water to wash it-use a wet linen cloth. The meat can be perfectly cleansed in this way. First Division—BEEF—No. 204. Beef is divided into fore and hind quarters. The hind quarter is divided into leg, loin, and flank. The leg is subdivided still further into shin, round, rump, and aitch-bone. The sirloin runs from the ribs to the hip-bone, sometimes spoken of as the pin-bone. The rump extends from the hip-bone to the socket-bone. The fore quarter is divided into ribs, shoulder, plate brisket, chuck ribs, and shin. The best pieces for roasting are the sirloin, ribs, and the pin- bone. The best rib roasts are the first and second cuts, the first known as the prime cut. The best pieces for steak are the tender- loin, porter-house, and sirloin steaks. The shin, neck pieces, and other inferior parts of the beef are used for soups, stews, etc. In selecting beef, choose that in which the lean is of a clear, bright red, and the fat white and firm. The tenderloin and sirloin roasts are considered the best, but are more expensive and no more nutri- tious than the best rib roasts. The rib roasts are served to best advantage by having the butcher remove the bones and roll the meat, always having him send the bones, as they are a valuable addition to the soup-kettle. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 87 To Roast BEEF-No. 205. In washing beef, do not dip it into the water, but place it on a clean board, or platter, dip a clean linen cloth into fresh, cold water, and wash carefully but quickly, not allowing the meat to go into water at all; wipe carefully all over the roast, being certain that no grit, etc., remains on it; trim it carefully; place in a hot pan on a rack, if you have one, if not, improvise one; pour in one corner of the pan one-half pint of boiling water to prevent burning until the juice from the meat begins to flow; put the pan, with the meat in it, in a hot oven; baste frequently with the hot water for the first ten or fifteen minutes. When the beef has browned, reduce the heat and cook rather slowly, allowing from ten to fifteen minutes per pound, according to the size and quantity of the meat. The length of time allowed for cooking depends also on whether you like beef rare or well done. Tender beef does not require as long to cook as tough. Sirloin and tenderloin do not require as long a time as ribs even when the quality of the ribs is good. Beef is generally preferred rare. Just before the meat is done, dust well with flour; add one teaspoonful of salt to the gravy in the pan and baste with this. (Never put salt on the meat while it is raw, because it makes it tough.) The basting must be kept up and the beef frequently turned through the whole cooking. When it is about half-done, dust well with black pepper. Serve hot with gravy, or cold without. Gravy–No. 206. The best gravy for beef is its own drippings, but if you wish a thickened gravy remove the meat from the pan, putting it where it will keep hot; skim from the gravy all the grease; add to the remain- ing gravy left in the pan one-half pint of boiling water, or stock, if you have it, stir until it boils; season with salt and pepper to taste, and thicken with one tablespoon of flour, browned for beef and white for white meats; thicken according to directions given for thickening; let the gravy boil up once after adding the thickening, stirring it constantly to prevent its lumping, Should it lump, strain it. To this gravy may be added horse-radish, or any addition pre- ferred, or the condiments may be served with it. To Boil Fresh BEEF—No. 207. Immerse in boiling water into which you have put salt (one tea- spoonful to each gallon of water. 88 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. To Boil SALTED BEEF—No. 208. Immerse in cold water; but should the water be exhausted in the process of boiling replenish with boiling water, because adding cold water would harden and toughen the meat. Fresh meat must be slowly boiled until sufficiently cooked. Salt meat should be boiled more rapidly and a longer time, always using boiling water to re- plenish when the water is exhausted; but never put salt meat on in boiling water-always in cold. Braised MEAT—No. 209. Braising is neither boiling nor roasting, but has some of the ad- vantages of both. The meat is put in a close-covered pan sur- rounded by water, and baked in a hot oven. Before putting in the pan, prepare as you would for roasting, and just before it is done, uncover the pan so as to brown the meat slightly; serve with a gravy made as directed for roast beef; potatoes, turnips, and carrots may be cooked and served with braised meat, if desired. To BROIL A STEAK—No. 210. A steak should never be cut less than one-half inch thick, and is better from one to two inches thick; to wash, follow directions already given for washing meat; butter the griddle or broiler; after having heated it really hot, put on the steak and hold it over a very hot, clear fire, turning it from one side to the other until both are browned; then reduce the heat and keep the steak cooking until it is cooked as much as you like it, from four to ten minutes, unless you like it well done; then cook a longer time. When done, dust with salt and pepper, spread on a little melted butter, and serve in a hot dish. If you are doubtful as to when the steak is done try it by running a fork into it close to the bone, not in the middle of the steak, lest all the juice escape. Broiling and roasting consist in exposing the meat to the heat of the fire on one side and the cold air on the other. In this day, having no conveniences for roasting as of old, we bake the meat in an oven and call it roast meat. CORNED BEEF—No. 211. The best pieces of beef for corning are the rounds, the briskets, and some inferior pieces. To corn, prepare a mixture of four pounds of salt, one quart molasses, two tablespoons of black pepper, ground, two tablespoons of pulverized saltpetre, one pound of brown sugar. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 89 Mix all together, and rub the pieces of beef to be cured with this mixture, packing them as you rub each one into a tub large enough to hold the brine that forms and runs from the beef. Repeat this operation every morning for seven days, then pack the beef in a molasses cask; pour over the brine from the tub, and add strong boiled brine enough to fill the barrel. The brine should be strained and poured over the beef after the brine is cold. The quantity of brine necessary must be determined by the quantity of beef, it being necessary to keep the beef covered with brine. The brine should be a saturated solution of salt. If the beef becomes too salt, it can be soaked before boiling. Boil by directions given for boiling salt meat. Tongues are corned by this same recipe. Pot Roast–No. 212. 3 pounds brisket, 11 teaspoons salt, 1 pint boiling water, 1 gill cold water, 2 even tablespoons flour, 1 teaspoon pepper. To Cook: Wash the meat according to directions No. 204; trim and season it with the salt and pepper. Put it in an iron or granite stew-pan and set it on a part of the stove where it will brown slowly. Turn it frequently. Cook the meat in this manner for thirty minutes; add a gill of boiling water, and draw the stew-pan to a part of the stove where the contents will cook slowly for four hours. Add a gill of boiling water whenever the liquid in the stew- pan becomes low. When the meat has been cooking three hours, mix the flour smoothly with the gill of cold water; stir it into the stew-pan; add enough boiling water to make the full pint. Cook the meat an hour longer, then serve on a hot dish with a part of the gravy poured over it; serve the remainder of the gravy in a gravy dish. It is very nice to substitute for the last water a quart of tomatoes, peeled and chopped, or in winter, a can of nice tomatoes chopped fine. In both cases, take out the cores of the tomatoes. Any inferior piece of beef will answer for this dish. FILLET OF Beer-No. 213. “The fillet is the tenderloin of beef; it generally weighs from three to eight pounds, and is considered more expensive than the other cuts of beef; but having no bone, the cost is probably the same. "A fillet of beef ordered from a caterer is a very expensive dish, but with a little care can be prepared at home. For the benefit of 90 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. those disposed to do this, the following directions are given: To prepare, first remove with a sharp knife every shred of muscular covering on the one side of the fillet; cut larding pork (very fat, salt pork) into tiny strips, and throw them into a bowl of ice water to harden; lard the fillet with these down the centre about one inch apart (see directions for larding); put in the bottom of a baking pan one small onion, sliced, one small carrot, sliced, a stalk of celery cut into small pieces, and four whole cloves. Put the fillet in the pan on top of these ; dredge with pepper, and spread thickly with butter; add a teaspoon of salt to one gill of boiling water, and pour into the bottom of the pan. Bake in a quick oven (400° Fahrenheit) for thirty minutes, basting four or five times. When done take out and place on a hot dish; add to the pan one tablespoon of butter, and brown; then add two tablespoons of flour; mix well; add one pint of stock; if you have no stock, boiling water; stir until it boils; strain into a frying-pan, and add one pint of fresh stewed or canned mushrooms; cook five minutes, take from the fire, add a teaspoon of Worcester sauce, one tablespoon of sherry, salt and pepper to taste; pour it around the fillet, and serve." BROILED FILLET—No. 214. “Cut a fillet of beef into slices about an inch thick; moisten with melted butter; let stand half an hour, then place them on a broiler and broil over a hot fire five minutes, turning two or three times. Place on a hot plate; season with salt and pepper; pour any sauce preferred (tomato is nice) around it, and serve.” BEEF Bouilli-No. 215. Take a piece of the round weighing four pounds; tie it into a neat shape with tape; put it into a large stew-pan, cover with boiling water, stand over a moderate fire, and simmer forty-five minutes to every pound; skim once or twice. When the meat is half-done add a large teaspoon of salt, one carrot, one onion, one potato, and one turnip, sliced; when done dish the meat and garnish with the vege- tables. Rub together one tablespoon of butter and two of flour; stir them into the boiling soup, season with salt and pepper, and serve as soup. The meat is much improved by being slightly browned before served, buttering it well before browning. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 91 BEEFSTEAK SMOTHERED IN ONIONS—No. 216. 1 dozen onions, 1 pound bacon, pint boiling water, 3 pounds nice, tender steak, teaspoon pepper, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 teaspoon salt. To Cook: Peel and cut the onions into slices; fry the bacon, hav- ing cut that into slices also; when all the essence is out of the bacon, take it out of the frying-pan and put in the onions; fry and stir for twenty minutes over a good fire; then add the boiling water, salt, and pepper; place over a more moderate fire to simmer for one-half hour; by this time the water should be entirely evaporated and the onions a nice brown; have the steak broiled; place it in the pan with the onions and stand in the oven for five minutes. Serve the steak on a hot dish, with the onions on and around it. HAMBURG STEAKS—No. 217. 1 pound steak from upper side 1 tablespoon onion juice, of the round, 1 teaspoon salt, dash black pepper. “To Cook: Chop the steak very fine; add onion, salt, and pepper; moisten the hands in cold water; take two tablespoons of this mix- ture and form with the hands into small round cakes or steaks. This quantity will make eight Hamburg steaks. Put two table- spoons of butter into a frying-pan; when hot, put in the steaks, fry brown on one side then the other. Place them on a hot dish; add a tablespoon of flour to the butter remaining in the pan; mix until smooth; add a half-pint boiling water; stir constantly until it boils; add more salt and pepper, and pour it over the steaks. They may be broiled just as plain steaks, seasoned with salt and pepper, and spread with butter." STEAMER STEW—No. 218. 1 pound lean, raw beef, 1 scant tablespoon chopped 1 ounce fat, onion, 1 quart sliced potatoes. To Cook: Slice and put the beef in the steamer without any water; add the onion; let it cook four hours. When it has been cooking two hours and a half add the potatoes, sliced rather thick, season with salt, pepper, and a little cayenne, and serve hot. 92 INSTRUCTION IN Cooking. Beef Á LA JARDINIERÈ—No. 219. 3 or 4 pounds beef (the inferior 6 pods red pepper (very small), cuts will answer for this dish), pint boiling water, 1 ounce butter, 1 ounce browned flour, 2 carrots, 4 heads of brocoli, 3 Irish potatoes, 2 small turnips, 1 onion, 11 teaspoons salt, } teaspoon pepper. To Cook : Wash and trim the beef as directed in No. 204; put it in a braising or covered pan; pour around the boiling water, and put in a slow oven; prepare and boil the vegetables, except the onions—slice and fry them with half the butter, and when brown put on top the beef in the covered pan. Cook the brocoli by itself. When the beef is nearly done (try it with a fork; if the fork goes in easily to the bone it is done) skim out of the water in which they were boiled the carrots, turnips, and Irish potatoes; cut them in any pretty shapes (vegetable cutters come for this purpose); put them in the pan with the beef, and with a spoon pour over them enough of the gravy to glaze them slightly. Serve the meat on a large, hot dish; put a brocoli at each end and on each side; fill the spaces between the heads of brocoli with the other vegetables, prettily arranged; scatter the little red peppers among them; add to the gravy in the pan one-half pint stock or boiling water; thicken with the remainder of the butter and the browned four rubbed together until very smooth. Serve in a gravy dish, to be eaten with the beef. If the brocoli is not obtainable substitute the hearts of four cabbage; the outside leaves of the cabbage can be used for other purposes. Pressed Beer-No. 220. 1 quart of pieces of cold beef, } teaspoon black pepper, } pint boiling stock, } bunch herbs, 1 teaspoon cloves, 1 teaspoon mace, 1 teaspoon allspice, À teaspoon salt. To Cook : Free the meat from fat and gristle before chopping and measuring. Mix with it all the other ingredients; taste to see if properly seasoned; press into a mould and set aside until cold and firm. Serve sliced or whole; garnish with parsley or endive. Meat from soup can be used for this dish if it has not been boiled enough to make it tough. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 93 YORKSHIRE PUDDING—No. 221. 3 eggs, 1 pint milk, 6 large tablespoons flour, 1 teaspoon salt, $ teaspoon pepper. To Cook : Separate the eggs and beat light; beat into the yolks, alternately, the flour and milk; add salt and pepper. Give all a. thorough beating, and last beat in the whites which have been already beaten to a stiff froth. Pour in the bottom of the pan in which the beef is cooking one hour before the beef is done. This pudding is usually served with roast beef in England. HOW TO CUT UP A VEAL. Nos. 1 and 2. The loin. No. 5. The shoulder. No. 3. The fillet. No. 6. The neck. No. 4. Knuckle, or shank. No. 7. The breast. No. 8. The shin. Veal cutlets are cut from the fillet; chops, from the loin. VEAL—No. 222. Veal is divided, like beef, into fore and hind quarters. The hind quarter is divided into leg and loin, and is used for roasting, the loin forming one roast, or may be divided into several; the leg into a fillet or cushion. The end, or shin, is used for soups, stews, etc. The loin is also cut into chops and the thick part of the leg into cutlets. The fore quarter is subdivided into shoulder, breast, and neck. The shoulder and breast are used for roasting, the neck and shin for soups and stews. The head is good for soup, etc. The brains, sweet-bread, and liver of veal are considered delicacies. The 94 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. feet are used for soups, stews, or jellies. Veal is roasted exactly like beef, except that it must always be thoroughly done, and the gravy must be thickened with white flour instead of browned. Cut- lets and chops may be broiled or fried. Broil just like steak, except thoroughly done. If fried they are dipped into a batter, or dipped first into beaten egg, then into fine bread crumbs and fried accord- ing to directions given for frying. Veal should be used when from eight to twelve weeks old. It should be fat, the meat finely grained, and not overgrown. Roast LoiN OF VEAL—No. 223. Wash; prepare and roast exactly as directed for beef (No. 204), except that veal must always be well done; it is both unhealthy and unpalatable rare. The gravy is also made exactly as beef gravy ex- cept that the flour is not browned. BREAST OF VEAL—No. 224. 1 breast of veal, pint bread crumbs, 1 small bunch herbs, pound salt pork, 1 teaspoon pepper, 1 teaspoon salt. To Cook: Chop the pork and herbs very fine, having first washed both thoroughly; add them to the bread crumbs, and mix thoroughly; wash the veal according to directions No. 204; fill the pocket (which the butcher will cut) with the stuffing; make long gashes between the ribs and fill them also. Put in a baking-pan, add one-half pint boiling water, and roast as directed for the loin of veal. Stuffed SHOULDER OF Veal-No. 225. Let the butcher remove the bone from the shoulder; fill the space from which the bone was taken with a stuffing made as for the breast. Pin the meat together with a skewer to prevent the stuffing from coming out, and roast as already directed (No. 223). VEAL CUTLETS (BROILED)—No. 226. 2 pounds cutlet, 2 ounces butter, teaspoon pepper, 1 teaspoon salt. To Cook: Cut the cutlets rather thin, but not so thin as for frying; dust with the salt and pepper; rub with one-half of the butter; heat the griddle, put on the rest of the butter, and when it hisses put on the cutlets; brown on both sides, then reduce the heat and cook more slowly. When done serve on a hot dish. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. CUTLETS FRIED IN BATTER–No. 227. 2 pounds veal cutlet, 1 egg, 1 tablespoon flour, .pint milk, 1 even teaspoon salt, teaspoon pepper, pound fat bacon or pork chop. To Cook : Cut the cutlets thin; dust with salt and pepper; make a batter with the egg, flour, and milk; cut the bacon into slices and fry brown and crisp. Take the bacon out of the pan and put it aside. Dip the cutlets into the well-beaten batter, and fry them in the fat from the bacon or pork chop. Serve cutlets hot with parsley around the dish. The bacon or pork chop can be used for another dish. CUTLETS FRIED WITHOUT BATTER-No. 228. 2 pounds cutlets, pound fat bacon or 1 teaspoon salt, 2 ounces lard, 1 teaspoon pepper, 2 tablespoons flour. To Cook : Slice and fry the bacon; remove it from the pan; dust the cutlets with salt, pepper, and flour; put in the pan and fry in the hot grease, browning both sides before reducing the heat. When done take the cutlets out and put on a hot dish. Add one-half pint boiling water to the gravy in the pan, stir, and thicken with the remainder of the flour. Let it boil up once; add salt and pepper, and pour over the cutlets. BREADED CUTLETS—No. 229. “Have the cutlets thin; cover them with boiling water; let them stand two or three minutes, drain and wipe dry; cut into pieces about two inches square; dip first in beaten egg and then in bread crumbs; have some lard very hot in the frying-pan, put in the cut- lets, and fry a pretty light brown on both sides before reducing the heat. Dish, and serve with gravy made according to recipe No. 206, or better still tomato sauce No. 345.” Veal Pot Pie-No. 230. 1 shin of veal, 1 quart sifted flour, 1 large tablespoon lard, 2 teaspoons salt, 1 small onion, 2 teaspoons baking powder, * pint milk, 3 pints water, 4 teaspoon pepper. 96 INSTRUCTION IN COCKING. To Cook: Put the water in a stew-pan; add the shin, onion, and one teaspoon of salt; and let all simmer until the meat is tender. There must be at least two-thirds of a quart of liquor when the meat is done; if it has evaporated add hot water to make a sufficient quan- tity; put the flour into a bowl, add the salt and rub in the lard; sift in the baking powder; add the milk and mix lightly; roll out on a board and cut with a round cutter the size of the stew-pan; take the shin from the gravy, cut the meat from the bone, return the meat to the stew-pan; season with the pepper; take out the onion; cover the meat with the crust; cover the stew-pan; return to the fire, and boil fifteen minutes, at the end of that time serve hot. VEAL CHOPs—No. 231. Veal chops are cut from the loin and are considered a choice dish. They may be broiled or fried by any of the directions given for cutlets. FILLET OF VEAL-No. 232. The fillet of veal does not correspond with the fillet of beef; it is a solid piece cut from the leg, also called the cushion. It is used for roasting and divided into cutlets. ROASTED FILLET OF VEAL No. 233. Wash as already directed; take out the bone, extracting from it the marrow; make incisions on the top of the fillet; fill these and the place where the bone was with a filling made by directions No. 375. Lard between the incisions with little strips of fat bacon; bind the fillet with a strip of cloth in order to keep it in shape. Dust with pepper and salt, and put into a hot pan; pour in the bot- tom of the pan one-half pint boiling water; put into a hot oven, and cook as directed (No. 215), basting frequently. When the meat is nearly done dust with flour, melt the marrow taken from the bone, and spread over the top; leave in the oven ten minutes; after this try with a fork, and if perfectly done and tender, dish. Make a gravy as directed (No. 345), and serve hot. If this meat is not all used the first day, it is very nice warmed over and served with a tomato sauce (No. 345). INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 97 VEAL LOAF—No. 234. 14 pounds lean veal, 4 sprigs parsley, I even teaspoon salt, 4 sprigs thyme, 1 teaspoon pepper, 1 stalk celery, teaspoon grated lemon peel, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, 4 eggs, 1 tablespoon chopped celery, 1) pint stock or water, * pound bacon, stock left after meat is boiled. To Cook: Wash very carefully the veal, bacon, thyme, parsley, and celery; put them in a stew-pan, boil until the meat is tender, add salt; stir well. Take the meat from the stew-pan, and chop very fine. Boil the eggs hard, drop them in cold water, remove the skins, and slice. Butter a mould or bowl, and lay some of the slices of egg in a pretty pattern in the bottom of the mould; sprinkle a little of the chopped parsley and celery over the eggs; dust with salt and pepper, then put a layer of veal and bacon mixed together and some of the grated lemon peel, and so continue until the mould is nearly full. Fill up with the gravy the veal was boiled in. If this gravy is not thick enough dissolve one tablespoon of gelatine, and stir into it. When perfectly cold turn out on a flat dish, and trim with parsley or celery tips. If the weather is not too warm make the day before. VEAL CHEESE–No. 235. 3 pounds shin of veal, 3 pints water, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 teaspoon pepper, 1 teaspoon salt, 2 tablespoons of chopped parsley, 1 pound chopped ham or tongue. To Cook : Wash the veal; cut it in small pieces, and put it on with the water in a stew-pan over a slow fire. When the meat is done and tender, separate it from the bone; put the bone back in the saucepan and boil down to two-thirds the original quantity of water. Strain, and set it aside in a cold place. Chop the meat and mix it with the gravy; season with celery, salt, and a little pepper, being careful not to get too much salt. Stir in the chopped ham or tongue; butter a mould and pack in; when perfectly cold and firm turn out, trim with celery tips, and serve. 98 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. HOW TO CUT UP A MUTTON. Mutton is divided into fore and hind quarters, or subdivided into- No, 1. Leg. No. 5. Neck. Nos. 2 and 3. Loin. No. 6. Shoulder. No. 4. Rack. No. 7. Breast. Two loins form a saddle. Loin chops are cut from the loin; rib chops, from the ribs. 02 HOW TO CUT UP A LAMB. A lamb is divided into fore and hind quarters- Nos. 1 and 2 forming the hind quar- Nos. 3, 4, 5, and 6 forming the fore ter. quarter. If preferred, it may be subdivided like mutton. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 99 MUTTON AND LAMB—No. 236. Mutton and lamb, like beef, is divided into fore and hind quarters. The hind quarter is divided into leg and loin, or the two loins when preferred are left together, forming a saddle. The part of the leg left from the saddle is used to boil. . The fore quarter is divided into shoulder, breast, and neck. The leg, shoulder, loin, or two loins, forming a saddle, are the best roasting pieces. The breast and neck are inferior, and generally used for braising, soups, and stews. The chops are cut from the loin and from the ribs, those from the loin known as loin chops, those from the ribs are known as rib chops. Mutton and lamb chops should always be broiled exactly like beef- steak (No. 210), except well done. French chops are rib chops with the thin end trimmed off and the bone scraped. The meat that is taken off in making French chops answers for soups and stews. Mutton and lamb are roasted and boiled exactly like beef, except always well done. Gravy for mutton or lamb is prepared exactly like gravy for veal. Mint sauce is much esteemed with roast lamb. Lamb is divided and cooked like mutton, always being careful to have it thoroughly done. In selecting mutton choose that which is small boned, short legged, plump, the meat finely grained, the lean of a dark, rather than of a bright, red color, the fat white and clear. Mutton is not considered to be in perfection until about four or five years old. Spring lamb is at its best from two to six months old. What is known often as lamb is much older than this, but is inferior either to spring lamb or mutton. LAMB—No. 237. As before stated lamb is in greatest perfection from two to six months old. The selection of lamb is somewhat difficult, but the same general directions given for the selection of mutton applies to lamb. It is in season from early spring to fall, but does not keep as well as mutton. It is divided exactly like mutton and is cooked in the same way; greater care being necessary not to burn it, as it is far more delicate than mutton. To avoid all mistakes a few direc- tions will here be given for cooking lamb. ROAST LAMB (THE QUARTERS)—No. 2372. Wash and trim the meat and put it on a rack in a hot baking-pan; put in the bottom of the pan one-half pint of boiling water in which has been stirred one teaspoon of salt, with this baste the lamb every 93322 100 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. ten minutes and when half-done dust it well with pepper; allow fifteen minutes to every pound of meat, and after the lamb has been in the oven twenty minutes reduce the heat but continue the basting, using the drippings after the water is exhausted. Serve hot, with gravy made by directions No. 205, and with mint or any other sauce pre- ferred. The other roasting pieces may be cooked by these direc- tions or divided and cooked by different methods. BREAST OF LAMB—No. 238. Wash and trim two breasts of lamb; tie them together and boil them in the soup stock or boiling water for forty-five minutes; drain them well, and extract all the bones. Put them under a heavy weight to press; when cold and firm, cut each breast into three pieces, and rub them well with melted butter, two teaspoons of salt, and a teaspoon of pepper. Roll in fresh bread crumbs, and broil over a rather slow fire for four minutes on each side. Serve on a bed of green peas. STUFFED BREAST OF LAMB—238). Wash, trim, and prepare as directed for roast and stuffed breast of veal. Serve with gravy by directions No. 205. SHOULDER OF LAMB—No. 239. Take a shoulder of lamb; remove the bone; fill with force meat prepared by directions No. 375; tie and skewer it up; rub with one teaspoon of salt and one-half teaspoon of pepper. Put it in a brais- ing or covered pan with stock, and let it cook for forty-five minutes. Skim the fat from the gravy; uncover the pan until the meat is browned slightly; remove the shoulder to a hot dish and untie it. Strain the gravy over the shoulder, and garnish the dish with stuffed tomatoes. LAMB STEAK—No. 240. Cut six small steaks from a tender leg of lamb; pare and trim them nicely; flatten, and season with one teaspoon of salt and one- half teaspoon of pepper. Put two tablespoonfuls of melted butter in a dish; roll the steaks well in it, and then broil them five minutes on each side. LAMB CHOPs—No. 241. Lamb chops are cut, washed, trimmed, and cooked exactly as directed for mutton chops, greater care being taken not to scorch INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 101 or dry them. They do not require so long a time for cooking, being tenderer than mutton chops. Lamb chops may be broiled, breaded, stewed, or cooked in any way suitable for cooking mutton chops. They are particularly nice with tomato sauce. To Roast A HIND QUARTER OF MUTTON—No. 242. Select the mutton by directions already given. A quarter weigh- ing about ten pounds makes a good roast. Wash it with a damp cloth; place in a baking-pan on a meat-rack, if you have one; if you have no meat-rack, improvise one from little tin boxes or anything at hand; dredge the mutton with pepper; put one-half pint of boiling water in the pan and stir into the water one teaspoon of salt; place the pan in a very hot oven and baste every ten minutes, adding no more water after the first evaporates. When the meat is well browned all over, reduce the heat and cook more slowly; cook fifteen minutes to every pound; just before the mutton is done, dust it with flour; continue to cook a few minutes longer and serve with gravy made as for beef (No. 206), or it may be served with caper, mint, or any sauce preferred. This mode of cooking is known as roast- ing; but roasting is exposing meat to a hot fire on one side and the cold air on the other. This was done to perfection in the days of great, open kitchen fires, spits, and little colored boys to turn the spits; but now, unless one is fortunate enough to own a “tin kitchen," there is no way of roasting meat, but when properly cooked in the oven it is both nice and wholesome. SADDLE OF MUTTON—No. 243. A saddle of mutton, as already stated, is the two loins left together. It is roasted exactly like a hind quarter of mutton except not so brown. It is served with a gravy, to which may be added caper, mint, or any sauce preferred; currant jelly is generally served with mutton. SHOULDER OF MUTTON_No. 244. A shoulder of mutton may be roasted as above or have the bone taken out, and may be stuffed with a bread filling as for veal (No. 375). Bake fifteen minutes for every pound; serve with gravy as above. 102 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. Haricot of MUTTON—No. 245. 2 pounds long ribs, left after 1 tablespoon Worcester sauce, cutting the rib chops, 1 tablespoon flour, 1 stalk celery, 1 tablespoon butter, 2 Irish potatoes, 2 onions, 1 carrot, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 pint stock or boiling water, 1 teaspoon pepper. To Cook : Cut the ribs into suitable lengths, put the butter in a frying-pan, and when hot brown the meat on both sides; take the meat up and add the flour to the butter remaining in the pan. Mix, and add gill of the stock or water; stir constantly until it boils. Put into a stew-pan; add the onions cut into slices and the celery into small pieces; stand over a slow fire to simmer. Boil the carrot, turnip, and potatoes in the remainder of the water; when done slice and add them to the stew; also the salt and pepper. Let all sim- mer together three-quarters of an hour; when done add the Wor- cester sauce, and serve hot. This dish may be made from any of the inferior parts of the mutton; or, if you wish it particularly nice, use the chops, and season more highly, using one tablespoon of sherry wine, if you like it. Plain MUTTON STEW_No. 246. 3 pounds mutton, 4 large or 6 small Irish potatoes, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 onion or 1 bunch of herbs, 1 teaspoon pepper. To Cook: As before stated it is not necessary to have the best cuts of meat for stews and soups, the neck or any inferior part will answer for this stew. Crack the bones and cut the meat into pieces about two inches long, put it in a stew-pan with two quarts of cold water, let it come to a boil; slice and add the onion or herbs (if herbs are used wash and pick them carefully); remove the stew-pan to a cooler part of the stove where it will simmer, not boil; when the meat is tender add the Irish potatoes after peeling and slicing them; put in the salt and pepper and continue to stew until all is thoroughly done; take out the bones; add two tablespoons of tomato catsup, or two teaspoons of Worcester sauce, or, if preferred, the catsup or sauce may be omitted and the stew thickened with one tablespoon of flour and one tablespoon of butter rubbed together by directions for thickening (No. 124). INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 103 BOILED LEG OF MUTTON—No. 247. 1 leg of mutton, 2 gallons of boiling water, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 tablespoon salt, 1 tablespoon flour. To Cook: Wash the leg of mutton by directions for washing meat; wipe dry; trim, being careful not to leave the knuckle and shank so long as to be unsightly; wring a cloth out of boiling water, spread it on a board or cooking table, cover thickly with flour and wrap the leg of mutton in the floured cloth; turn and secure the edges exactly as directed in boiling fish; have the water boiling; stir in the salt, and immerse the leg of mutton in the cloth in the boiling water; cook until thoroughly done, allowing from twelve to fifteen minutes to each pound for cooking; it should boil slowly, as rapid boiling toughens and hardens the meat. To make the gravy take one pint of the water in which the mutton was boiled; thicken it with the but- ter and flour mixed perfectly smooth. Serve the mutton on a hot dish with one-half of this gravy poured over it, and the remainder served in a gravy dish. To the plain gravy may be added two hard boiled eggs, sliced or chopped, capers or any addition preferred; mint sauce (No. 346) is generally liked with this dish. These directions apply to all boiled mutton. CURRY OF MUTTON_No. 248. 1 pound of mutton, chopped, pint rice, 1 tablespoon butter, 2 quarts boiling water, 1 tablespoon curry powder, 1 teaspoon salt. To Cook : Wash and pick the rice carefully; let the water boil; stir into it one-half the salt, then sprinkle in the rice. Cook until the rice is done (about thirty or thirty-five minutes); drain free of water; stir in all the other ingredients, except the meat, and set aside to keep warm. Boil the meat until tender; mix with the rice, and serve hot. FRENCH STEW-No. 249. 2 pounds of any inferior part of $ teaspoon pepper, the mutton, * pint stock, 1 tablespoon currant jelly, pint water, 1 tablespoon tomato catsup, 1 teaspoon Worcester sauce, 1 tablespoon walnut catsup, 1 gill sherry wine, 1 tablespoon mushroom catsup, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 tablespoon browned flour, teaspoon salt, 1 dash cayenne. 104 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. To Cook: Wash and trim the meat; removing all gristle and most of the fat. Put in a stew-pan with the water and simmer until tender; then add stock, catsups, pepper, salt, and cayenne. Stir well while the stew boils up once; thicken with the flour and butter rubbed together perfectly smooth. Add the wine, and serve hot. A sheep's head may be used for soup or stew by directions given for calf's head, being even more particular in cleaning the head. CHOPS, STEWED—No. 250. 2 pounds loin or rib chops, 14 pints boiling water, 1 tablespoon flour, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 even teaspoon salt, teaspoon pepper. To Cook: Wash and trim the chops; put them in a saucepan with the boiling water; stew gently until tender; add salt and pepper; thicken with the flour and butter rubbed together until smooth; let the stew boil up once after thickening, taking out the chops if they are sufficiently done; stir in the parsley and serve hot in a covered dish, or on a flat dish with a rice border. A tablespoon of catsup or sherry wine may be added to this stew if liked. Chops not tender enough to be broiled can be used to advantage in this way. To braise mutton, follow directions No. 209 for braised meat, adding vegetables or not, as preferred. BREADED Mutton CHOPs—No. 251. Wash and prepare the chops as before directed. Beat an egg; add to it one tablespoon of cold water; mix thoroughly, and in the mixture dip each chop, being careful to cover it well with the egg; then roll the chops in fine bread crumbs. Put a tablespoon of but- ter on a hot griddle, and broil the chops, turning them frequently to prevent burning. After the first few minutes reduce the heat of the fire (this can be done by slipping something under the griddle if there is no other way of doing it). When thoroughly done and a nice brown serve hot with or without tomato sauce (No. 345). Broiled Chops—No. 252. Wash and trim the chops, flatten and get them into nice shape. Butter a hot broiler, put the chops in, fastening the broiler securely; broil over a bed of coals, turning constantly to prevent burning. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 105 Cook thoroughly (from ten to fifteen minutes), dust with salt and pepper, pour over a little melted butter, and serve hot. Great care is necessary in broiling chops not to scorch or dry them, at the same time getting them thoroughly done. When there is no broiler convenient chops may be broiled on a buttered griddle by above directions. FRENCH CHOPs—No. 253. These are generally prepared by the butcher; but should it not be convenient to have him do it, take a sharp knife, and trim all the meat from both sides of the bone to the thick part of the chop. Scrape the bone perfectly clean, and broil the chops as already directed, or they may be breaded. Pork. HOW TO CUT UP A HOG. No. 1. Neck, or collar. No. 4 and 5. Loin. No. 2. Jowl. No. 6. Leg, or ham. No. 3. Middlings. No. 7. Shoulder. PORK—No. 254. Pork should be used sparingly as a meat, but is valuable to cook other things with or to cure for bacon. It is divided into halves, then subdivided into hams, shoulders, middlings, chines, spare-ribs, etc. If used as fresh meat, the leg, shoulder, and loin are the best pieces for roasting. They should be scored, and roasted like beef, except always thoroughly done. The loin is also cut into chops and fried or broiled like mutton chops, always having them well done. The brains of hogs are considered better than those of any other animal. The feet and sometimes the head are used for souse. Hams, shoulders, and middlings are best cured for bacon. To do this, see special directions No. 273. Half-grown hogs when butch- ered are known as shoat, and are divided and cooked like fresh pork. Little pigs are cooked whole, and considered by many per- sons delicious. Roast LEG OF PORK—No. 255. Select a leg weighing six or seven pounds; wash and trim; score the skin with a sharp knife both ways, and if you prefer, remove every other square of skin. The scoring should be in lines about one-half an inch apart. Place the meat on a rack in a hot pan; put INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 107 in the bottom of the pan one-half pint boiling water with one tea- spoon of salt stirred into it. Put the pan in a hot oven, and baste every five minutes for about one-half hour; after that time not so fre- quently. Reduce the heat of the oven and cook more slowly, basting the pork every ten minutes with its own gravy. Roast from twenty-five to thirty minutes to each pound. When done, make a gravy by directions No. 205. Serve apple sauce with this dish. The loin and shoulder of pork are roasted like the leg. If liked, a little sage or chopped herbs may be added to the gravy, prepared for any of these pieces. PORK TENDERLOIN OR Fillet—No. 256. Wash as directed, and trim the tenderloin, removing the sinews, and cut each fillet lengthwise in two without detaching them; one hour before they are to be cooked, rub with salt and pepper; heat a griddle; put in one tablespoon of butter and broil the fillets six minutes on each side; then, if not entirely done and tender, reduce the heat and broil until done. Serve hot, with apple or any sauce preferred. PORK CHOPS BROILED—No. 257. Wash, trim, and flatten the chops and broil exactly as you would the tenderloin. Serve with a gravy or not, as preferred. FRIED PORK CHOPs—No. 258. Prepare the chops as for broiling; heat the frying-pan and lay in the chops with enough of their own fat to fry them; cook from six to ten minutes, first on one side, then on the other. When done and tender, serve on a hot dish, with or without the gravy. Apple sauce is nice with all pork. SPARE-Ribs, FRIED—No. 259. Wash and trim carefully; crack the ribs across in three different places; rub with salt and pepper, and fry quickly in a hot frying- pan. This is a nice relish, but not a very substantial dish. STEWED SPARE-Ribs—No. 260. Prepare as for frying; separate the ribs length and crosswise where they have been cracked; put them in a stew-pan with one sliced onion, one large turnip, two carrots, and three Irish potatoes cut into small pieces (this quantity of vegetables to one large spare- rib); cover meat and vegetables with cold water and stew gently until all are thoroughly done; season with salt, pepper, and a little cayenne. 108 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. STUFFED SPARE-Ribs—No. 261. Prepare two spare-ribs as for frying; make a stuffing of one pint and a half of mashed Irish potatoes, one tablespoon of butter, one teaspoon of salt, one teaspoon of powdered sage, and one-fourth tea- spoon black pepper; mix the ingredients for the stuffing well together; lay it in the middle of each spare-rib; fold over the two ends, secure with strings or skewers, and roast as directed for pork only, allowing ten minutes for each pound to cook. Serve with gravy made as for roast pork. Pork Pot Pie-No. 262. A favorite Christmas dish with Virginia negroes. Chines and spare-ribs are generally used for this dish, but any part of lean pork will answer. Crack the bones and cut into pieces two inches long. Line the pot (which should be round at the bottom, and well greased) with a good foundation pastry (No. 645). Put in the meat, sprinkle with salt and pepper, then a layer of parboiled Irish potatoes, sliced, and so continue until the pot is nearly full. Then pour in a quart of cold water and put on the upper crust, cut- ting a small round hole out of the middle of the crust, through which you can pour hot water should the gravy boil away too fast. Put on the cover of the pot and boil about two hours. When done remove the upper crust carefully, turn out the meat and gravy into a bowl, and take out the lower crust. Put this upon a hot dish, put the meat and potatoes upon it, pour the gravy over it, and cover with the top crust. This can be browned by holding over it a red- hot oven lid or stove plate. SAUSAGE—No. 263. Sausage is usually made from the tenderloin of the hog, but can be made from the ham or shoulder, separating carefully the lean and fat. 7 pounds lean pork, 2) ounces salt, 3 pounds fat from chines, 14 ounces black pepper, 21 ounces sage. To Make: Pass the meat through a chopper, after having cut it into strips and mixed the lean and the fat. If it is not ground fine enough the first time repeat the operation. When fine enough, spread on a large board, or tray, sprinkle over the seasoning (hav- ing ground it very fine). Work with the hands until all is thor- INSTRUCTION IN Cooking. 109 oughly mixed. Cook a little piece and taste; add more seasoning, if necessary. Pack in jars with melted lard poured over the top, or in skins if you wish to smoke the sausage. The skins must be prop- erly prepared. Chines—No. 264. When fresh, chines are nice baked or roasted like other pork, but are best salted and boiled with turnips. When cold, they are very nice. PORK STEAK—No. 265. Cut the steaks from the leg. They should be about one-half of an inch thick. Rub them well with butter; put one tablespoon of butter in a hot griddle; put in the steaks, and turn them constantly until a nice brown; then reduce the heat and cook until thoroughly done and tender. Dust well with salt and pepper, and serve on a hot dish with a little melted butter or a maitre de a hotel sauce poured over them. PORK AND BEANS—No. 266. 1 quart white beans, 1 pound pickled pork, 2 quarts cold water, 1 tablespoon molasses or brown 2 pints boiling water, sugar. 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon pepper. To Cook : Wash and pick the beans; soak them all night in one quart of cold water; in the morning wash again, and drain them through a colander; then put them on to boil in the quart of cold water. When they have boiled two hours, strain them out of this water; put them into a jar or earthen dish; stir in the seasoning and molasses. Wash and score the skin of the pork; put it with the beans, and cover all with the boiling water. Cover the jar or dish and simmer inside of the oven until the skin cracks and the beans are done. This will be in about five or six hours. Uncover the jar, or dish, and cook until the beans and pork are a nice, pretty brown, and are sufficiently dry to be good. Roast Pig–No. 267. For this purpose select a pig one month old; have it cleaned with the most scrupulous care, and before filling wash it for the last time in cold water and wipe carefully with a clean soft cloth; stuff it with a dressing made of one-half pint of stale bread crumbs, one heaping 110 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. tablespoon of butter, one tablespoon of chopped parsley, one tea- spoon of powdered sage, one teaspoon of salt, one-quarter teaspoon black pepper, one tablespoon onion juice. Mix all these ingredients well together; put the dressing in the pig; sew the opening together; truss the legs so that they will all turn forward under and close to the body; place a stone or cob in the mouth to keep it open; wipe the pig again with a dry cloth; rub it with melted butter; dredge lightly with salt, pepper, and four; place in a hot pan on a meat rack; put one-half pint of boiling water in the bottom of the pan; place in a hot oven, and baste every ten minutes for the first three- quarters of an hour, then reduce the heat and continue to baste it, but not so frequently; when the pig is about half-done baste it all over with melted butter; roast from two to three hours; when done place it on a dish with parsley all around; remove the stone or cob from the mouth and put in its place a red apple. Serve as hot as possible, with a gravy made by No. 341, to which may be added four tablespoons of sherry wine, if you like it. Apple sauce is usually served with roast pig. Souse-No. 268. Clean the feet, and any other part you intend making into souse, thoroughly, and scrape them well; soak them in cold water two or three hours; then wash and scrub them; when perfectly clean, put them in a stew-pan and cover them with cold water; place them over a moderate fire and simmer until tender; pack in stone jars while hot and cover while you make the pickle, prepared thus: To one- half gallon of good vinegar, allow one gill of white sugar, three dozen whole black peppers, a few blades of mace, and a dozen cloves; let this come to a boil over a moderate fire and pour, while hot, over the souse. It will be ready to use in twenty-four hours. Before serving, split the feet and crack them in two or three places. Fried Souse-No. 269. 3 feet, f pint milk, 1 egg 2 tablespoons flour, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon butter, lard for frying. To Cook: Beat the egg until light without separating; beat into it the flour, milk, salt, and the butter, melted; dip each piece of souse in this and fry in hot lard. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 111 CHEESE SOUSE-No. 270. Clean the head, ears, and tongue by soaking, scraping, and scrub- bing them. Be very careful to have the nasal passages perfectly clean. When nice and sweet, boil in salted water until the meat drops from the bones; remove thick skin from the tongue; chop all fine; season with salt, pepper, sage, sweet marjoram, a little pow- dered cloves, and one gill of strong vinegar; mix all together thor- oughly; taste to see that it is properly seasoned, and pack into moulds; put a plate on top of each mould and a weight on the plate. In two days the cheese will be ready for use. If you wish to keep this, put it in stone crocks or jars and cover it with vinegar. This makes a nice tea or lunch dish. BARBECUED SHOAT—No. 271. 1 leg or shoulder of shoat, 1 gill vinegar, 1 quart boiling water, 1 teaspoon Worcester sauce, 1 pint mixed catsup, } teaspoon pepper, 1 even teaspoon salt, 2 tablespoons butter. To Cook: Wash and trim the meat according to directions; slice it entirely across from end to end, almost to the bone; rub between each gash with salt, pepper, and butter; put in a pan on a rack; in the bottom of the pan put the boiling water. Put the pan in a hot oven, and baste frequently for fifteen minutes; then cover with another pan and cook slowly until the meat is tender (about two and a half hours). Uncover; pour into the gashes the catsups, vinegar, and the remainder of the butter, melted. Leave uncovered in the oven until done and nicely browned. Serve with a gravy made as heretofore directed, to which may be added one gill of sherry and catsups to taste, if not sufficiently seasoned. BRINE FOR PICKLED MEAT—No. 272. 7 pounds coarse salt, 1 ounce saltpetre, 4 pounds brown sugar, 9 gallons water. To Cook : Boil all together; when cold, remove the skum from the top; pour over the meat; put a weight on top to keep the meat under the brine. It must be kept well covered with the brine. CURING Bacon-No. 273. As soon as the animal heat has left the hog, cut it up carefully. Have ready beaten one pound of the best saltpetre, five pounds of 112 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. black pepper, ground very fine (it is best to buy the pepper corns and grind them at home), and a plenty of coarse salt of good qual- ity. Cure the hams and shoulders first; allow for each twenty pounds of meat one heaping teaspoon of saltpetre and two even tablespoons of ground pepper, and one and a half tablespoons of brown sugar. Rub carefully with this on the fleshy side. Put a little of the saltpetre and as much pepper as possible into the hocks and on the joints, rubbing it in well. Cover with salt and put into a clean box, which must be kept closely covered. At the end of three weeks hang the small joints, at the end of four the large ones. Let them hang about two weeks then smoke, being careful not to let the fire blaze, but making a dense smoke. Corn-cobs smothered with chips make a good and safe fire. Rub the middlings, jowls, etc., with one-half the quantity of saltpetre allowed for hams and shoulders, and the same quantity of pepper; rubbing it in thoroughly, especially in and on the joints. Cover with salt and pack in boxes, as directed for hams and shoulders. Keep all the meat as dry and free from mould as possible. The middlings, jowls, etc., may be smoked or not as preferred, but in Virginia all are usually smoked. In damp weather, and occasionally through the winter and spring, it is well to have a little smoke in the meat-house. As soon as smoked, put the hams in bags. These may be whitewashed or rubbed with ashes, making them perfectly safe. Hang in a dry, dark meat-house. TO PREPARE OR “TRY OUT" LARD-LEAF LARD—No. 274. Wash the fat carefully in warm water, but do not soak unless soiled. Cut up into pieces as nearly the same size as possible. Put into a per- fectly clean iron pot (one which will not smut a white napkin) the fat and one pint of cold water to a small pot of lard; one quart to a large one. Do not pack the fat into the pot; stir frequently with a large wooden spoon or paddle from the time the pot is put on until it is done, stirring more frequently towards the end of the boiling to prevent its sticking on the sides or bottom of the pot. As soon as the fat is well heated boil rapidly, but when half-done and the water exhausted boil very slowly, stirring all the time. When the crack- lings are a light brown through the lard is done. Take the pot off, and let it stand for fifteen minutes to settle. Put a clean cloth over a colander, and strain into large tins or stone jars. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 113 INSIDE LARD,No. 275. Soak this fat for two or even three days if necessary, changing the water every day. Wash until perfectly sweet and nice in warm water, and boil by directions for leaf lard, except that no water is needed, the fat having already absorbed as much as is necessary. TO BOIL A HAM–No. 276. Soak in cold water over night; wash with a coarse brush or cloth, and put on to boil with a plenty of cold water; cook slowly, allowing twenty minutes per pound for cooking. When done leave in the water in which it has been boiled until the ham is perfectly cold, then remove the skin, but keep it to lay over the ham when not on the table, so as to keep it moist and sweet. If the ham is to be served hot of course it cannot be left to cool in the liquor, but it is much better if not cut until it is cold. It should always be carved very thin. It is an improvement to cover the ham first with a well- beaten egg, then with fine bread crumbs. Put in the oven until the crumbs are brown, and serve cold. If necessary to add more water in cooking always use boiling water. BAKED HAM–No. 277. Clean a ham by scrubbing it well with a brush and scraping off any ashes, etc.; soak it in cold water for twenty-four hours, changing the water twice during that time; trim any rancid or rough places from the sides; make a thick paste of flour and water; cover the bot- tom of the ham with this paste and place the ham with the skin side down on a rack in a pan; pour in the pan one-half pint of cold water and one-half pint of sherry wine; put in a rather cool oven, with an increasing heat; cook slowly, basting every ten minutes with the mixture in the pan; allow twenty-minutes per pound for the cooking of an eight-pound ham; when done, take out of the pan and set aside to cool; when perfectly cold, peel off the paste from under- neath and the skin from the top. Serve cold, garnished with parsley. STUFFED HAM–No. 278. 1 ham, 1 pint bread crumbs, 1 gill brandy, yolks of ten hard-boiled eggs, 1 tablespoon mustard, 1 tablespoon chopped thyme, 1 tablespoon onion juice, 1 tablepoon chopped parsley, 1 teaspoon powdered mace, 1 teaspoon allspice, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon pepper, 1 teaspoon powdered cloves, 1 nutmeg, 2 gills cracker dust, 1 pint champagne. 114 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. To Cook : Boil a ham by directions already given (No. 276). While warm, cut it in strips about one-half an inch apart from one side to the other. Mix the bread crumbs, herbs, and spices with the onion juice, and fill each gash with this dressing. Rub the yolks of the eggs in a smooth paste with a small quantity of the brandy. Cover the ham with the eggs, pressing the slices together so as to restore the form of the ham. Sift over the top the cracker dust, and sprinkle over this the remainder of the brandy. Insert some skewers so as to keep the ham in shape. Put it on a rack in a warm pan; pour the champagne in the bottom of the pan; put the pan in a hot oven, and cook until a pretty brown, basting constantly with the champagne. Serve hot with champagne sauce, or cold, garnished prettily. Be careful in removing the skewers not to pull the slices apart. Ham BOILED IN CHAMPAGNE—No. 279. Prepare the ham as already directed for boiling. Soak it twelve hours; put in a porcelain-lined kettle; more than cover it with cider, and boil gently, allowing twenty minutes to each pound for cooking. When done, leave in the liquor in which it was cooked until per- fectly cold; then remove the skin carefully; dry off with a soft, clean cloth, and serve cold. This is by courtesy known as “ham boiled in champagne.” BROILED Ham-No, 280. Cut the ham into slices, if cooked, one-quarter of an inch thick; if raw, one-half an inch; trim off the rind (skin); dust with pepper; put in a buttered broiler and broil over a clear fire for eight minutes, turning frequently. Serve on a hot dish. If the ham to be broiled is raw, soak it two hours; dry on a clean cloth and broil as above directed. FRIED HAM–No. 281. Cut and trim the ham as for broiling; heat a frying-pan; put in the ham and fry over a quick fire until the fat is a nice brown. Serve with or without a cream gravy. It is better without. HAM AND EGGS—No. 282. Fry the ham as above directed; when done dish and put where it will keep hot. Have the eggs ready, and drop one by one into the hot fat left after frying the ham. Cook until the yolks are set. Cut the ham into pieces of suitable sizes, lift the eggs carefully, and lay one upon each piece of ham. Dust lightly with salt and pepper. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 115 POTTED HAM–No. 283. When the ham becomes too unsightly to appear on the table cut it from the bone; remove carefully all rancid parts and gristle. Pass through a meat chopper; mix with each pint of ham one tablespoon of melted butter, one teaspoon of mustard, one-fourth of a teaspoon of pepper, and a dash of cayenne. When thoroughly mixed pack in small jars for tea or lunch. It is also nice for sandwiches. BREAKFAST BACON—No. 284. Cut into thin slices, trim off the skin, put in a frying-pan cold, and heat gradually; fry until crisp and brown. This makes a nice relish. To Boil BACON OR SALT PORK-No. 285. Wash as directed; trim, removing parts that may have become rancid; put on in cold water, and boil gently until done, allowing twenty minutes to each pound. It is nice boiled with cabbage, tur- nips, or salad. Fowls. How to Select Fowls—No. 286. Young, plump, well-fed, but not overfed, poultry is the best. The skin should be clear and finely grained, in turkeys and chickens white; the breast broad and full-fleshed, the legs smooth, the toes pliable and easily broken when bent back, the fowl heavy in propor- tion to the size. White chickens are the best. How to CLEAN AND Dress Fowls—No. 287. Cut off the head; remove every feather, taking the largest first. When all the feathers are off wash the fowl carefully and look to see that no feathers have been left on. If there are small feathers that cannot be removed with the fingers, use a pair of kitchen tweezers to draw them out. It is best to pick the fowls dry, though they are often dipped in boiling water to loosen the feathers. Having picked and cleaned the outside of the fowl, proceed to open and empty it. To do this, cut the skin on the back of the neck, turn it over on the breast, and cut off the neck; remove the crop, being particular to take out all the strings, membrane, etc.; break the ligaments that hold the internal organs to the breast-bone ; cut the fowl open at the vent, beginning under the left leg ; put the fingers in this open- ing and work around until the organs are loosened from the bones; draw all out at once, being careful not to break anything ; return the fingers into the body of the fowl to see if anything is left there; cut the oil-bag from the tail and the feet off at the first joints of the leg. If there are any feathers or hairs around the tail or elsewhere singe the fowl, wash quickly in cold water, and prepare accord- ing to the way of cooking the fowl. Separate the liver and gizzard from the other internal organs, wash, open the gizzard, empty and clean it nicely. To Roast a Fowl-No. 288. Prepare a stuffing of bread crumbs, salt, pepper, and seasoning (see directions for force meats, No. 375); fill the crop and breast with this dressing, draw the skin at the neck on to the back, and fasten it to the backbone with a skewer; the body may also be filled with dressing if convenient. Turn the tips of the wings under the INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 117 back and fasten them with a long skewer, pass a short skewer through the lower part of the legs and then through the tail. It is now ready for cooking. Roast by directions given for roasting beef, being even more particular about basting, as the flavor and excel- lence of the fowl depend greatly on its being frequently and properly basted. All fowls may be larded. When this is done it is not neces- sary to baste so frequently. Onions and sage are generally used in dressing geese and ducks. To make the gravy, follow directions given for making gravy for meat, using browned flour for roasted fowls and white flour for boiled. The exact length of time for roast- ing and boiling fowls cannot be determined; it depends on the size and age of the fowl. The rules given in regard to meat apply to fowls also. Turkeys and chickens are very nice boiled. They are pre- pared exactly as for roasting, and boiled according to directions for boiling fresh meat. They are served hot with egg sauce. Roasted fowls may be served with giblet gravy, as well as that made by direc- tions for beef gravy. Broiled CHICKEN-No. 289. Chickens to be broiled must be split in the back; cut off the necks, wash and wipe nicely by directions for washing meat, draw the legs up over the breast, spread with butter, and broil by direc- tions given for broiling steak, except that the heat must be reduced sooner and the chicken cooked longer, in order to get it thoroughly done. When done serve on a hot dish with melted butter over it. Fried ChickenNo. 290. Divide the chicken into breast, wings, legs, back, and scrag; dust with salt, pepper, and flour; put into boiling grease, and keep over the hot fire until all the pieces are a light brown, then reduce the heat and cook until thoroughly done. Serve hot, with or without cream gravy, and on toast, or fried bread, or fried mush. It can be served alone, without bread of any kind. StewED CHICKEN—No. 291. Prepare and divide the chicken as for frying; put on in boiling water enough to cover the chicken; put the stew-pan on the fire where it will cook slowly. When the chicken is done add to the gravy one-half pint rich milk, or cream, and thicken according to directions for thickening, with one large tablespoon of butter and HICKEN 118 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. one of four; salt and pepper to taste. If preferred, one gill of raw rice may be added when the chicken is half-done, instead of thick- ening with the flour. BRAISED, OR SMOTHERED, Chicken-No. 292. Prepare the chicken as for broiling; put it in a covered pan; cook slowly, basting frequently with butter and the juices from the chicken. When the chicken has been cooking fifteen minutes, dust well with pepper and salt. When nearly done uncover the pan and let the chicken brown; serve with or without gravy, as preferred. Chickens are good cooked in this way when too large to broil or fry, and not large enough to roast. STEWED CHICKEN—No. 293. 2 chickens, 1 gill water, * pint red wine, 1 bunch sweet herbs, I onion, 1 teaspoon mace, 1 even teaspoon salt, $ teaspoon pepper, 1 tablespoon flour, 1 teaspoon butter. To Cook: Prepare the chickens as directed (No. 287); cut them in quarters and put them in a stew-pan with all the other ingredients; cover closely, and stew very slowly. When tender, thicken with the flour and butter rubbed together until perfectly smooth. Simmer six minutes longer; take out the onion, herbs, and mace. Serve hot in a covered dish. If the stew is not sufficiently rich, the well- beaten yolks of two eggs may be stirred in just before serving. Brown FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN-No. 294. 2 frying chickens, 1 teaspoon onion juice, 2 tablespoons flour, 2 ounces butter, 1 teaspoon of salt, 1 pint boiling water, or stock, } teaspoon pepper. To Cook: Prepare the chicken as directed (No. 287); divide it in the same way as for fried chicken; put the butter in a saucepan and stir until it browns; put in the chicken and cook it in the butter un- til each piece is nicely browned; then add the flour, stirring until it is perfectly mixed; now stir in the boiling water, or stock, and the salt; cover closely, and put on a part of the stove where it will simmer, not boil. When perfectly tender and done add the onion juice and pepper. Serve on a flat dish; pour the gravy over, and sprinkle with chopped parsley. This should cook about one hour and a half, unless the chickens are very tough, then longer. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 119 WHITE FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN—No. 295. 2 chickens, 1 pint boiling water, 1 large tablespoon butter, 2 tablespoons flour, 1 pint milk, yolks of 2 eggs, 1 teaspoon salt, $ teaspoon pepper, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley. 10 Cook.—Prepare and divide the chickens as above directed; put in a stew-pan with the boiling water; set over a moderate fire and stew gently until tender. When done there should be very little water left. Add to this the milk; thicken with the flour and butter rubbed together until smooth; stir until it boils; add salt and pep- per. Draw the stew-pan to a cooler part of the stove; add the beaten yolks of the eggs and the parsley; stir well and dish, pour- ing the gravy on and around the chicken. PILLAU OF CHICKEN—No. 296. 1 four-pound chicken, 3 gills raw rice, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 teaspoon salt, $ teaspoon pepper. To Cook : Prepare the chicken as directed (No. 287); boil one gill of the rice, season with salt, butter, and pepper, and fill the crop and body of the chicken with it; put the chicken in a stew-pan, cover with the water, and set it on a moderate fire to boil gently; wash the rice, picking it carefully, and when the chicken begins to get tender add the rice, salt, and pepper. Cook until done (about two or two and a half hours). Dish the chicken, covering and sur- rounding it with the rice. It is an improvement to this dish to serve with it tomato sauce (No. 345). Little pods of red pepper laid over the chicken and about in the rice make it very pretty. BREADED CHICKEN—No. 297. * pint boiling water, 2 tablespoons butter, 1 young roasting chicken, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 gill bread crumbs, 1 teaspoon pepper. To Cook: A chicken of about three pounds is nicest for this dish. Have it split down the back as for broiling (No. 289); dust all over with salt and pepper; rub with butter, and sprinkle with the bread crumbs. Place in a pan, pour the water around, and cook in a hot oven until tender and done (about forty-five minutes), reducing the heat after the first fifteen minutes. Put the split side down in the pan, and baste frequently with the water and butter. 120 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. CHICKEN TERRAPIN (MRS. RORER)—No. 298. Boil the chickens as for chicken croquettes and cut into dice. To every quart of cut meat allow- 3 hard-boiled eggs, pound butter, 1 gill sherry wine, 1 cup cream, 1 teaspoon ground mace, $ teaspoon cloves, 1 tablespoon flour, salt and cayenne to taste. To Cook: Put the chicken in a saucepan; rub the butter and flour together, add it to the chicken, then add seasoning and cream. Stand over a very moderate fire until thoroughly heated. Chop the whites of the eggs very, very fine, then add them to the chicken. Mash the yolks of the eggs with two or three tablespoons of cream to a smooth paste, then add to the chicken, and stir the whole over the fire until it comes to boiling point; add the wine, and serve im- mediately. More or less wine may be added, according to taste. Calf's liver, after parboiling for fifteen minutes, is delicious dressed in this same manner. CHICKEN PUDDING—No. 299. 2 stewing chickens, 1 quart water, 1 pint flour, 1 quart milk, 4 eggs, 1 even teaspoon salt, teaspoon pepper, 2 tablespoons butter. To Cook : Clean and cut up the chickens as for stewed chicken (No. 291); stew until tender; butter a baking dish and put the chickens in it, scattering little bits of butter, pepper, and salt through the chicken and moistening it with a little of the water in which it was stewed; make a batter with the eggs, flour, milk, and one-third of the salt; pour this matter over the chicken and bake until done (from one-half to three-quarters of an hour). To Mix the Batter. Beat the eggs separately; beat the flour and milk alternately into the yolks; when all the flour and milk are used stir in all the butter that you have not already used over the chicken and in buttering the dish; add the salt and give the whole a good beating; last, beat in the whites beaten to a stiff froth. CHICKEN PIE-No. 300. 2 frying chickens, 1 quart boiling water, 2 tablespoons butter, 2 tablespoons flour, 1 teaspoon of salt, teaspoon pepper. INSTRUCTION IN Cooking. 121 For Crust. 1 quart flour, 10 ounces butter and lard, or cot- 1 teaspoon salt, tolene, mixed, cold water enough to mix. To Make: Make by directions for “foundation pastry” (No. 645). Butter a large baking dish and line it with this pastry; roll out a round piece large enough to cover the top of the dish; make a hole in the centre; clean, divide, and stew the chicken as directed (No. 291); fill the dish which you have lined with pastry with the chicken, cover with the prepared pastry, and bake in a quick oven from one-half to three-quarters of an hour, according to the size of the dish. When it is about half-done put a funnel in the hole in the top of the pie, and pour in the gravy which you have not previously used. CHICKEN Pot Pie-No. 301. 1 large chicken, 1 pound lean ham, 1 quart flour, 1 kitchen spoon lard and butter 2 teaspoons salt, mixed, 1 even tablespoon butter, 1 teaspoon pepper. To Cook: Make the pastry by directions for "foundation pastry”. (No. 645). Butter the sides and bottom of a round pot; line it with the pastry, reserving enough to cover and to make dumplings. Prepare and cut the chicken as for stewing; cut the ham into small pieces and the remainder of the pastry into little squares; now put in the bottom of the pot, lined with pastry, a layer of chicken, then of ham, salt, pepper, and the squares of pastry, then chicken again, and so continue until all is used. Cut a hole in the middle of the pastry for the top, cover the pot with this, and pour in through the hole the boiling water; place over a moderate fire and simmer con- stantly for two hours. Half an hour before the pie is done, cut the tablespoon of butter into little bits and add it to the pie through the hole in the top crust; when done turn it out on a large dish, so that the bottom crust will be up. KENTUCKY CHICKEN Pie-No. 302. 2 chickens, * pint stock, 1 tablespoon flour, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 teaspoon salt, } teaspoon pepper, pound foundation pastry (No. 645). 122 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. To Cook: Fry the chickens by directions No. 290. Put the stock in a saucepan; when it comes to a boil thicken it with the flour and butter rubbed together until perfectly smooth; add salt and pepper; stir over the fire until the stock thickens; line a deep dish with the pastry, reserving enough for the top. Put the chicken in the dish; pour over the stock; cover with the upper crust. Make a small hole in the top, and bake in a quick oven until done. Serve in the dish in which it was baked, placing that in a china dish. STEAMED CHICKEN-No. 303. 1 half-grown spring chicken, 1 pint cream, 2 tablespoons flour, pint boiling water, 1 tablespoon corn starch, 2 tablespoons butter, 3 tablespoons chopped celery, 1 teaspoon pepper, 1 teaspoon salt. To Cook: Split the chicken down the back, rub with the salt and pepper, and steam. Put the cream in a double boiler. Mix the four, butter, and corn starch together until perfectly smooth; thicken the cream with it. Pour the water over the celery, and let it stand until the chicken is done; then drain and dry the celery on a cloth; stir it quickly into the sauce and pour over the chicken. Serve hot. JELLIED CHICKEN—No. 304. Take a young, fat chicken; prepare by directions No. 287. Re- move the skin and fat; cut apart wings, legs, breast, and back, put- ting them in a stone jar perfectly free from water; cover, and place in a kettle of cold water; let it boil for five hours. Cut the meat very fine, and sprinkle with salt and pepper to the taste. Have ready a mould in which put the meat, light and dark alter- nately, until all is in, then pour over it the essence of the chicken remaining in the pan. Put in a cold place to jelly, and turn out the next day. TURBAN OF CHICKEN Á LA TURQUE—No. 305. 1 chicken weighing two pounds, 1 onion, 1 small green pepper, 1 pint stock, 2 gills tomato sauce, 1 pint raw rice, 2 gills chopped mushrooms, 3 ounces parmesan cheese, 1 teaspoon salt, teaspoon pepper, 1 ounce butter, 1 tablespoon curry powder. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 123 To Cook: Prepare and cut the chicken as for stewing (No. 291). Brown in a stew-pan with the butter, the onion, and green pepper, chopped fine. Cook until all the pieces of chicken are brown, stir- ring with a spoon to prevent scorching; then add the stock and put where it will simmer, not boil. When tender, add the mushrooms, etc., season with salt and pepper, and cook until all is done, but not long enough to toughen the mushrooms. Dish the chicken and set aside. Have the rice ready boiled, stir it into the gravy, etc., taste to see if properly seasoned, and press into a small turk's-head cake mould. Set in the oven until firm enough to turn out; turn it in the middle of a dish (lay the dish over the mould and turn it quickly upside down; remove the mould, leaving the turban of rice in the middle of the dish). Lay the pieces of chicken around the rice, and dress with the tomato sauce. CHICKEN FRITTERS—No. 306. Prepare the chicken as for roasting (No. 308), but do not stuff it; put in a steamer with one small onion and three sprigs of parsley; cook until done; when cold chop fine, removing all skin, fat, and gristle; mix together until smooth one tablespoon of butter and two tablespoons of four; put one-half pint of milk in a double boiler with the butter and flour; stir over the fire until thick, then add the chicken; season with salt, cayenne, and one teaspoon of onion juice; stir well, and set aside to cool; when cold form into little balls; dip in batter made with one egg, one-quarter of a pound of flour, one-fourth of a teaspoon of salt, and enough cold water to make a stiff batter; fry in boiling fat, and serve hot, garnished with parsley. DevilED TURKEY OR CHICKEN LEGS—No. 307. Gash the meat slightly; dust with pepper and salt; rub together until smooth one tablespoon of butter and one teaspoon of dry mus- tard; cover the legs with this, and broil over a fire of clear coals. This is a nice way of reheating, especially if the fowls have been cooked rare. To Roast a Turkey or Chicken-No. 308. Prepare the turkey as directed (No. 287); stuff with a dressing (No. 374), or with oyster or chestnut dressing; draw the skin over the neck, and fasten with a skewer on the back; adjust the legs and wings as directed; place on the rack, if you have one, in a hot pan, and pour one-half pint of boiling water in the bottom of the pan; stir 124 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. into the water one teaspoon of salt; rub the turkey with melted but- ter, unless you have already larded it; place the pan in a hot oven, and baste with the water from the pan every ten minutes; when the turkey is brown all over reduce the heat and cook more slowly, continuing to baste frequently; allow from fifteen to twenty minutes per pound for cooking; when done (which is to be ascertained by running a fork or skewer in the thickest part of the thigh) serve with gravy. BOILED TURKEY OR CHICKENNo. 309. Prepare as directed for roast turkey or chicken; stuff with plain dressing (No. 374) or oyster dressing (No. 383); draw the skin over the neck and secure on the back, and arrange the legs and wings as for roasting; wring a large cloth out of boiling water; spread it quickly on a bread board; sift flour all over it, and wrap the fowl in it in the same way that a fish is wrapped when boiled (No. 136); have boiling a kettle of water, salted, immerse the fowl in the water, and remove it to a part of the stove where it will simmer; allow fif- teen or twenty minutes per pound for cooking, according to the size of the fowl, a very large one requiring a longer time; when tender through the thickest part of the thigh it is done. Serve hot with egg sauce made with some of the water in which the fowl was boiled. Ducks and GEESE—How to Select-No. 310. To be good, ducks and geese must be young and fat. When young the legs and the webbing of the feet are soft, and the under bill easily broken. The reverse, and the general appearance of the skin, indicate that they are old. Roast Ducks—No. 3103. 1 duck weighing 3 pounds, pint bread crumbs, 1 teaspoon powdered sage, 1 tablespoon onion boiled and 1 tablespoon butter, chopped, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon pepper. To Cook: Prepare exactly as for roasting (No. 288); mix with the bread crumbs all the ingredients for the stuffing; fill the place from which the crop was taken and the body with the stuffing; skewer and truss it; rub the breast well with butter; put in a baking- pan, and in the bottom of the pan put one-half pint of boiling water and one-half teaspoon of salt. Place in a hot oven, and baste fre- INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 125 quently—every ten minutes. Serve with a brown or giblet sauce (No. 340 or 373), using browned flour to thicken the giblet sauce. Potato stuffing (No. 379) may be substituted for the above. Currant jelly and pickles are nice with roast duck. Roast Goose_No. 311. Select by directions given for selecting ducks, etc., being even more careful, as geese live to be very old, and a tough one is not eatable. Prepare and cook by directions for roasting duck, doubling the quantity of stuffing, and seasoning it with onion and sage to taste. Goslings (young geese) are roasted exactly like geese, except allowing fifteen minutes to every pound, while with geese twenty- five minutes per pound is the time allowed for cooking. As with turkeys, the heat of the oven is reduced after the goose is browned all over. Serve geese and goslings with a brown sauce (No. 340), and with apple sauce (No. 368). Guinea fowls, contrary to general opinion, are very nice, and are cooked exactly by directions for roasting fowls (No. 288). PIGEONS—Roast PIGEONS—No. 312. Prepare exactly as you would a chicken; stuff and roast in the same way, only regulating the length of time for cooking by the size of the pigeon. The gravy is also made in the same way as chicken gravy. BROILED SQUABS—No. 3121. Clean and prepare like chickens; split down the back, flatten, and wipe carefully; after washing, broil exactly by directions for broiling chicken (No. 289). They may also be roasted whole without stuffing BAKED SQUABS—No. 313. 4 squabs, 13 tablespoons butter, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 gill stock, teaspoon pepper. To Cook : Rub the squabs well with butter; dust with salt and pepper; put into the baking-pan with the stock; place the pan in a quick oven, and bake three-quarters of an hour, basting every ten minutes. Serve hot on buttered toast, with a maître d'hotel sauce (No. 343) over them. PIGEON PIE—No. 314. Pigeon pie is made exactly like chicken pie (No. 300), and is con- sidered very nice. Game. Venison-No. 315. In selecting venison, choose that in which the meat is of a fine grain. In young deer the hoof is slightly opened only, in old it is wide open. Venison is improved by being hung. In winter it may be kept two or three weeks in a cold, dry place; in warm weather it should be kept in ice, not laying immediately on the ice, but hung in an ice-house or kept in the dry part of a refrigerator. It is divided like mutton into quarters, the two hind quarters being often left together, forming a saddle. The hind leg roasted is known as a haunch. The sinewy and more indifferent parts are used for stews. Steaks are cut from the leg, or haunch. To Roast A HAUNCH OF VENISON—No. 316. 1 haunch of venison, 1 pound larding pork, 2 ounces butter, 2 ounces browned flour, pint boiling water, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon sherry, 1 teaspoon pepper. To Cook : Wash the venison, using warm water. Be careful to remove all little clots of blood, etc. It is pretty to leave the hoof and four or five inches of skin or hair on the lower part of the leg. If this is done, wrap as far as the skin with five or six layers of coarse cloth, thoroughly wet, to prevent the hair burning or changing color; cut the salt pork into little strips, and lard the haunch thickly with it. If you have no larding needle cover the venison with the skin from a piece of sweet bacon. It may be roasted without this, but as the meat is dry, the bacon skin or salt pork is an improve. ment; dust with salt and pepper, and place in a very hot oven, with the boiling water in the bottom of the pan; baste every ten minutes, for the first hour, with melted butter, afterwards with its own drip- pings; roast fifteen minutes to every pound. When done, unwrap the hoof and dish; make a brown sauce (No. 340) from the drip- pings in the pan; stir into this the sherry, and serve in a gravy dish. Currant jelly should be served with venison. The shoulder of veni- son is roasted in the same way, and the saddle exactly as directly for a saddle of mutton (No. 243), except it should be kept covered with a buttered paper while roasting. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 127 To BROIL A VENISON STEAK—No. 317. Cut the steak from one-half to one and a half inches thick. Butter the bars of the griddle, lay the steak on it, and broil over a clear, hot bed of coals, turning constantly. Have a dish heated and serve immediately, with two tablespoons of melted butter and two table- spoons of port wine poured over the steak as it is dished. It also may be served like beefsteak without the wine. Serve currant jelly with it. Venison STEW_No. 318. This can be made from the little scraps of meat and the bones left after the steaks have been taken off. Wash as directed, crack the bones, and put them on with water enough to cover them well; boil until all the essence is extracted from the bones and they look dry; then strain off the water for further use. 2 pounds venison, cut into small 1 tablespoon mushroom catsup, pieces, 13 tablespoon butter, 3 pints of the water in which the teaspoon pepper, bones were boiled, 1 small onion, 2 tablespoons browned flour, 1 tablespoon tomato catsup, thin peel of half a lemon, 1 tablespoon walnut catsup, 1 tablespoon Worcester sauce, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 gill sherry. To Cook: Put the butter in a pan and brown it slightly; stir into this the meat, aſter rolling it in the browned flour. When the meat is brown put it into a saucepan with the water in which the bones have been cooked, and stir until it boils. Remove it to a cooler part of the stove and let it simmer one hour; add the onion and lemon peel, simmer it one hour longer, put in the salt and pepper, the catsups, Worcester sauce, and last the wine. Serve hot in a covered dish or in pastry shells. Take out lemon peel and onion before serving. VENISON PIE OR VENISON Paste-No. 319. 3 pounds venison, 1 ounce butter, 1 quart stock, 1 ounce flour, 1 large or 2 small onions, 1 bunch herbs, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon nutmeg, 1 teaspoon pepper, 1 gill Madeira wine, 1 tablespoon Worcester sauce, juice of 1 small lemon. 128 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. To Cook: Cut the venison into small pieces; place them in a saucepan with the butter, and brown them well; then add the flour, which should be browned; stir until perfectly smooth; then add the stock, onion, herbs, salt, pepper, and nutmeg; place on the stove where it will simmer for one hour; when done, add Worcester sauce and wine. By this time the gravy will be sufficiently evaporated to have some consistency; butter a baking dish and put the stew in it, first taking out onion and herbs; cover it with a top of puff pastry (No. 646); make a hole in the top of the pastry so as to add the gravy left after filling the dish, which should be rather a deep one. Serve hot, placing the baking dish on a folded napkin laid in a white dish. If preferred, this stew may be served in the form of pâtes instead of being baked in a dish as above directed. VENISON IN A CHAFING DISH-No. 320. 2 pounds venison steak, 2 ounces butter, 2 tablespoons sherry, 1 tablespoon currant jelly, } teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon pepper. To Cook: Cut the steaks rather thinner than for broiling, and divide them into pieces of convenient sizes; put the butter in the chafing dish; when hot, put in the steaks and brown on both sides; add the seasoning, and stir all well together; cover the dish, and let it heat about five or six minutes before serving. To CURE VENISON Hams—No. 321. Venison hams are cured and smoked in the same way as pork hams (No. 273). They are usually chipped, and broiled or frizzled like dried beef. Wild Ducks—To Roast Wild Duck—No. 322. Pick, dress, and wash wild duck exactly as directed for fowls (No. 287), being especially careful not to leave them in the water, as soak- ing destroys the flavor. If there is any fishy odor about the ducks rub them lightly with a piece of onion and put three or four raw cranberries in each duck before cooking it; adjust the wings and legs, and run a skewer through, so as to keep them in place. It is not usual to stuff wild ducks, but if stuffed a potato stuffing (No. 379) is nicest, though a bread stuffing (No. 374) may be used; rub the duck well with butter, and if no stuffing has been used put one table- spoon of butter in the duck; place in a hot baking-pan; pour one INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 129 gill of boiling water in the bottom of the pan, and stir into the water one teaspoon of salt; put in a very hot oven; baste well every five minutes, first with melted butter and the water in the bottom of the pan, afterwards with the drippings; when done, serve with their own gravy poured over them. Serve with currant jelly. It is hard to prescribe the exact length of time for cooking a wild duck, because of the difference of size and age, as well as for the differences in taste, some persons liking them very rare while others like them well done. A good way in cooking all delicate fowls or birds is to reduce the heat after they are browned all over, and when you think they are done test them by running a fork or skewer into the thickest part. If it goes into the meat to the bone readily, and the meat feels ten- der, it is done, otherwise cook longer. Wild Duck BROILED,No. 323. Clean and prepare the duck as directed; split through the back just as you do a chicken; flatten it, arrange the wings and legs, dust with salt and pepper, and rub well with olive oil or melted butter; broil about seven minutes on each side; broil by directions No. 289. Serve on a hot dish with a little melted butter or maître d'hotel sauce (No. 343) poured over it. Watercress or endive make a pretty garnish for this dish. SALMI OF Wild Duck—No. 324. 1 pair ducks, 2 tablespoons butter, 1 tablespoon onion juice, 2 tablespoons flour, 1 tablespoon mushroom catsup, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, 1 bunch herbs, 1 pint boiling water or stock, 1 teaspoon salt, teaspoon pepper, 12 stoned olives, 1 gill sherry. To Cook: Prepare the ducks as for roasting; put a thin slice of bacon over the breast of each; place them in a pan with one-half pint of water, and bake in a hot oven until nearly done, basting fre- quently with the water; take from the oven and carve the ducks into as many pieces as convenient; stir the butter and flour together until perfectly smooth; put it into a stew-pan and stir until a dark brown; add the stock or boiling water; let it come to a boil, stirring constantly; then add the herbs (properly washed), the onion juice, lemon juice, catsup, salt, and pepper; let all simmer together twenty minutes; take out the herbs; add the ducks and all the gravy from 130 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. the dish on which you carve them; cover and simmer twenty min- utes longer; add the wine, and serve on a hot dish. Cold duck may be used for this dish. It is pretty served on a flat dish garnished with crôutons cut into triangles before frying; arrange with the points up; scatter the olives over the top of the dish. Wild TURKEY—To Roast A Wild TURKEY—No. 325. Prepare exactly as directed for tame turkey (No. 308); stuff in the same way, but always lard the breasts or lay a buttered paper over them, as the meat of a wild turkey is very dry; roast as directed (No. 286), reducing the heat after the first hour, and allowing fifteen minutes to every pound for cooking; baste frequently with melted butter. Serve with gravy and with cranberry sauce (No. 367). Hares—No. 326. Hares are generally bought in market ready dressed, but should this not be the case, skin the rabbit, split it carefully, and remove the entrails; singe, if necessary; wash carefully, but quickly, not allowing the rabbit to soak. It is now ready to be cooked in any way preferred. Roast RABBIT, OR HARE—No. 327. Fill the rabbit with a stuffing (No. 374); sew it up; rub well with melted butter; put on a rack in a hot pan with one-half pint of boil- ing water in the bottom of the pan; place in a hot oven and roast, basting frequently; unless very large, it will cook in thirty-five or forty minutes. Serve hot with a gravy. BROILED HARE–No. 328. For this purpose select a young rabbit; broil exactly like a chicken, only using more butter. BARBECUED RABBIT, OR HARE-No. 329. Divide the hare through the back lengthwise, then crosswise into three parts; take off fore and hind legs; dust well with salt and pepper and rub with melted butter; put on a buttered griddle and broil, turning frequently and basting all the time with melted butter; strain over the hare the juice of one lemon; serve on a hot dish. Add to the butter left on the griddle one gill of stock, the juice of another lemon, or one tablespoon of vinegar; stir well and pour over the hare. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 131 Stewed HARE-No. 330. Prepare and divide the hare as above directed; put into a frying- pan one tablespoon of butter; when hot put in the hare and brown it; turn the contents of the frying-pan into the stew-pan with one quart of stock or boiling water (stock is best), one bunch of herbs, one scant teaspoon salt, and one-quarter of a teaspoon of pepper; simmer until the hare is tender and the stock reduced one-half; take out the herbs; thicken with one tablespoon of browned flour and one table- spoon of butter rubbed together until smooth; boil up once after thickening; add one tablespoon of Worcester sauce, or two of any catsup preferred, and serve hot. This stew may be thickened with white flour, the Worcester sauce or catsup omitted, and dumplings dropped in, thus making a plain stew, or it may be cooked and served exactly like “Turban of Chicken á la Turque." A pie may be made of hare, just as chicken pie is made. These directions are intended for the hares shot or trapped in the woods. Tame rabbits are not used for food with us. Squirrels may be cooked and served like hares, but are best made into Brunswick stew. BRUNSWICK STEW_No. 331. 2 squirrels, 4 large Irish potatoes, } lb. lean ham, 1 pint grated corn, 3 pints tomatoes, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, 1 pint lima beans, 1 large onion, 3 ounces butter, 1 small pod of red pepper, 3 quarts water, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon pepper. To Cook: Prepare the squirrel as directed for hare (No. 326); cut it up; put it in a large saucepan with the water, the sliced onion, and the ham, cut into small pieces; cover the saucepan and simmer gently for two hours; prepare the vegetables; cut up the tomatoes, and drain before measuring, removing the cores; add all the vege- tables, parsley, salt and pepper; stir well; cover and simmer one hour longer, then add the butter and stir frequently to prevent scorch- ing. Serve hot. A three-pound chicken or two pounds of lean veal may be substituted for the squirrel. If liked, a little Worcester may be added to this stew. 132 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. BRUNSWICK STEW—No. 332. “First catch your chickens, clean and cut them, And in an iron pot you put them; Add water nearly to the top, And in it salt and pepper drop; Boil slowly. Your tomatoes peel: Put in a shin or so of veal, And for a flavor, bear in mind, A chunk of middling with the rind; Next, some onions you throw in, The young and tender silver-skin; And butter-beans do not forget; And what's of more importance yet, The corn; but do not be too fast, This you must grate and add it last; For better than flour you'll find it do To give a thickness to the stew. Some lemon peel, cut very thin, May now be added and stirred in, And ere it's taken from the fire Give it a dash of Worcestershire, And soon you'll have its praises ring. This is a dish fit for a king.” To BROIL Birds—No. 333. To broil partridges, or any other bird of a corresponding size, pick and prepare by directions for broiling chickens; singe and wipe nicely with a wet cloth; split down the back, dust with salt and pep- per, and rub well with melted butter or olive oil; butter a broiler and broil over a bed of clear coals, turning constantly; allow seven minutes to each side for broiling; butter twice during the broiling. Serve hot with a little melted butter poured over each bird. To BROIL BIRDS ON A GRIDDLE—No. 334. Heat the griddle; put in one large tablespoon of butter; arrange the legs and wings of the bird, and when the butter hisses put it in, placing the split side down; when this is brown turn the bird, add more butter, and brown the upper side; then reduce the heat and cook until done. Serve on a hot dish. Sora and all small birds are broiled like partridges, etc., not allowing so long a time for broiling. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 133 To ROAST PARTRIDGES, ETC.-No. 335. Pick and draw the birds as you would a chicken (No. 287); wipe them carefully, inside and out, with a wet cloth; do not put into water if possible to avoid it; tuck the wings back and fasten the legs up to the sides of the body with a small skewer; lard the breasts or rub them with melted butter; stuff or not, as preferred; place them in a baking-pan, with one gill of melted butter in the bottom to baste them with; dust with salt and pepper; roast, basting frequently. Serve with the gravy in the pan poured over them. Sauces, Gravies, and Stuffings. Plain Drawn BUTTER SAUCE—No. 336. 2 ounces butter, 1 ounce flour, 1 pint boiling water, 1 teaspoon salt, $ teaspoon pepper. To Cook: Put the butter in a saucepan, and put on a moderately hot stove; stir into it very gradually the flour; mix until perfectly smooth; pour in very slowly the water, stirring constantly; add the salt and pepper; boil up once and serve. This is the foundation of many other sauces, made by adding different seasonings. What is known as drawn butter is melted butter, and by many persons is preferred to a sauce. CAPER Sauce-No. 336). Make a drawn butter sauce (No. 336); add to it one and a half tablespoons of capers. EGG SAUCE—No. 337. pound butter, 2 dessertspoons of flour, 1 pint milk or water, 4 hard-boiled eggs, chopped. To Cook: Mix the flour and butter together until perfectly smooth; melt slowly, and add the water or milk, stirring constantly to pre- vent lumping; boil until the consistency of rich cream; while hot stir in the eggs-chopped or sliced. Fish Sauce-No. 338. 6 ounces butter, 4 tablespoons walnut catsup, 2 tablespoons vinegar, 1 teaspoon dry mustard, a little black pepper and cayenne. To Cook: Put all ingredients in a saucepan and stir while melt- ing. When smooth, serve very hot. SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH-No. 339. 6 ounces butter, 4 tablespoons walnut catsup, 1 teaspoon flour, 1 tablespoon pepper vinegar, 1 teaspoon dry mustard, 1-10 teaspoon black pepper. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 135 To Make: Rub butter, flour, and mustard to a perfectly smooth paste; put in a saucepan and stir over the fire until melted; mix gradually into the butter, etc., all the other ingredients; stir until perfectly smooth and hot. Serve in a gravy dish. Brown Sauce-No. 340. pint stock, or boiling water, 1 rounded tablespoon browned 1 tablespoon butter, flour, salt, pepper, and cayenne to taste. To Make: Heat the stock to boiling point; rub the flour and but- ter together until perfectly smooth; thicken the stock with butter and flour by adding the stock very gradually to thickening; stir until perfectly smooth and thin enough to pour back into the sauce- pan; season and continue to stir until the flour is cooked. Serve hot, with or without condiments. If you have no stock, boil some bones or giblets in the water you intend using for this sauce, but stock is far better. CREAM SAUCE–No. 341. 1 pint milk, 2 tablespoons of flour, 2 tablespoons butter, salt and pepper to taste. To Make: Rub butter and four together until perfectly smooth and beat until light, put the milk in a double boiler, and when it comes to boiling point, thicken with the butter and flour by adding the milk very gradually to the thickening, stirring all the time until perfectly smooth and thin enough to pour back into the boiler; season; continue to stir over the fire until the flour is cooked. Should this sauce become too thick by standing, thin it by adding, very slowly, boiled milk. If this or any other sauce becomes lumpy, strain it. PARSLEY SAUCE-No. 342. Add one tablespoon of chopped parsley to the cream sauce (No. 341). MAÎTRE D'HOTEL SAUCE—No. 343. 1 tablespoon of butter, 1 teaspoon of salt, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, 1 teaspoon of pepper, 1 teaspoon chopped parsley. To Make : Beat the butter to a cream; beat the lemon juice and seasoning into it; last, stir in the parsley. This is used to spread on broiled meats or fish, birds, etc. 136 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. HOLLANDAISE Sauce-No. 344. 1 tablespoon lemon juice, 3 tablespoons butter, pint boiling water, yolks of 2 eggs, 1 teaspoon salt, a little cayenne. To Make : Beat the butter to a cream, then beat in the unbeaten yolks of the eggs; add the lemon juice, salt, and cayenne; place the bowl in a pan of boiling water and beat the sauce a few minutes; add the boiling water, and continue beating until the sauce is thick and light. Serve either in a separate bowl or around the dish you intend serving it with. Tomato Sauce-No. 345. 5 gills chopped tomatoes, with $ teaspoon salt, the juice drained from them, $ teaspoon pepper, 1 tablespoon butter, 2 whole cloves, 1 tablespoon flour, a little piece of onion. To Make: Put the tomatoes, onion, salt, cloves, and pepper in a stew-pan and set on the stove; cook until the tomatoes are soft enough to mash into a pulp; put the butter and flour together and mix and beat until smooth and light; strain the tomatoes; stir thick- ening into the tomatoes and simmer long enough to cook the flour. Serve hot; if not perfectly smooth, strain. Mint Sauce-No. 346. 1 bunch of mint, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon of sugar, 5 teaspoon pepper, 1 gill of vinegar. To Make : Wash the mint and chop it fine; put it in a dish with vinegar, salt, pepper, and sugar; cover and let it stand a half hour; strain; iſ too strong, reduce with water. Serve cold with lamb or mutton. BREAD SAUCE-No. 347. 1 onion, chopped fine, 4 ounces bread crumbs, 2 gills milk, 2 gills cream, a little salt and pepper. To Make: Put the onion and bread crumbs (sifting them first), salt, pepper, and milk, in a saucepan; boil ten minutes; add the cream; press through a sieve and serve hot. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 137 SAUCE PIQUANTE—No. 348. 4 small onions, 4 tablespoons olive oil or butter, pint Spanish sauce (No. 359), 2 ounces pickles. . To Cook: Chop the onions very fine; put them in a saucepan with the olive oil or butter. When it begins to brown slightly, add the Spanish sauce; boil slowly for a few moments; then add pickles and serve. The pickles should be chopped unless very small. Sauce REMOULADE-No. 349. Yolks of 2 eggs, 1 tablespoon mustard, 8 tablespoons olive oil, 3 tablespoons vinegar, 1 chopped onion, 1 teaspoon salt, } teaspoon pepper. To Mix: Put the yolks of the eggs in a bowl; mix with them until perfectly smooth the mustard, salt, and pepper; stir and beat well; then add two tablespoons of the vinegar and (stirring con- stantly) the oil, and lastly the third tablespoon of vinegar; beat again; chop the onion very fine and stir in. ALLEMANDE Sauce (MRS. RORER)—No. 350. 1 tablespoon butter, 16 mushrooms, chopped, 1 tablespoon flour, } pint white stock, 1 teaspoon onion juice, yolks of 3 eggs, 1 teaspoon white pepper, teaspoon salt, quarter teaspoon grated nutmeg. To Cook: Melt the butter without browning it; add the flour; mix well; add stock, stirring constantly until it boils; then add mush- rooms, and simmer one minute; take from the fire; add the beaten yolks, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and onion juice. Celery Sauce-No. 351. 3 hard-boiled eggs, 1 gill milk, 5 roots of celery, 1 even tablespoon flour, 1 pint cold water, 1 tablespoon butter, a little salt and pepper. To Cook: Clean the celery, cut into small pieces, put it in a saucepan; add the water; cover the saucepan, and stew slowly for half an hour; then press it through a colander; put the butter in a frying-pan; when melted add the flour; mix well; then add milk and celery; stir constantly until it boils; add salt, pepper, and eggs, chopped fine. 138 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. CHAMPAGNE SAUCE-No. 352. Make by directions for brown sauce (No. 340), and add one gill champagne. MUSHROOM SAUCE-No. 353. Make by directions for brown sauce (No. 340), and add to it one pint of French canned mushrooms; simmer ten minutes after adding mushrooms and serve hot. Anchovy Sauce-No. 354. pint drawn butter sauce (No. 336), 1 tablespoon anchovy paste. To Make: Dissolve the anchovy paste with a little cold water; add gradually the sauce, stirring constantly until perfectly smooth; beat well together and serve hot. SAUCE TARTARE-No. 355. 3 olives, } pint Mayonnaise dressing (No. 1 gherkin, 370), 1 tablespoon capers. To Mix: Chop the olives, gherkin, and capers very fine, add them to the dressing, and it is ready to use. WHITE SAUCE—No. 356. 1 tablespoon butter, } pint white stock, 1 tablespoon flour, a little salt and pepper. To Cook: Melt the butter without browning; add the flour; mix well and add the stock; stir constantly until it boils; add salt and pepper and serve. BÉCHAMEL SAUCE—No. 357. 1 tablespoon flour, 1 gill stock, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 gill cream, * teaspoon pepper, yolk of one egg, 1 teaspoon salt. To Cook: Put the stock in a double boiler on the fire; rub together until perfectly smooth the flour and butter; beat into these the egg; beat until very light; when the stock boils add the cream, heated; mix well; add this little by little to the thickening, stirring con- stantly; when thin enough to pour return to the boiler; add salt and pepper; stir over the fire, in the double boiler, until the sauce thickens. Serve hot. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 139 HORSERADISH SAUCE-No. 358. Add two tablespoons grated horseradish to three-quarters of a pint of béchamel sauce (No. 357); boil for five minutes, stirring constantly. When ready to serve add one-half teaspoon of vinegar. Should the sauce be too thick, thin with a little cream. SPANISH SAUCE—No. 359. 1 quart stock, 4 ounces butter, 2 tablespoons flour, 1 tablespoon Worcester sauce, 1 tablespoon mushroom catsup, 2 tablespoons sherry, 1 teaspoon salt, $ teaspoon pepper. To Cook : Boil stock until reduced to one pint; put the butter in a frying-pan and stir until very brown; add the flour and mix until perfectly smooth; pour in very slowly the stock, stirring constantly until it boils; add the Worcester sauce, mushroom catsup, salt, pep- per, and, last, the wine. SAUCE DIABLE—No. 360. 1 pint Spanish sauce (No. 359), 2 teaspoons cold water, 1 teaspoon dry mustard, saltspoon red pepper. To Make : Mix the mustard and pepper into a smooth paste with the cold water; mix gradually with the Spanish sauce; have it per- fectly smooth. Cook for five minutes over a moderate fire, stirring constantly, and serve hot. SAUCE SUPRÉME—No. 361. } bunch parsley, chopped fine, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, carcass of chicken, 1 quart water, 1 tablespoon flour, 1 tablespoon butter, { pint thick cream, yolks of 2 eggs, 1 teaspoon salt, $ teaspoon pepper. To Cook: Crack the bones of the chicken, cover with the water, put in a saucepan, and cook over a moderate fire until the water is reduced to one pint; strain out the bones; return the stock to the fire in a clean saucepan; rub the flour and butter together until per- fectly smooth; beat in them the eggs, beating until very light; add to this very slowly the stock, stirring constantly until the mixture is thin enough to pour back into the saucepan; add the cream slowly, still stirring; add salt and pepper, and, last, the lemon juice and chopped parsley; stir well and serve hot. 140 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. OYSTER SAUCE-No. 362. 1) pints oysters, 1 tablespoon butter, } pint milk, 1 tablespoon flour, 1 teaspoon pepper, teaspoon salt. To Cook: Put the oysters in a colander; drain off the liquor into a saucepan; remove from the oysters any shell or grit and drop them back into the liquor; cook until the gills of the oysters curl, then take them out and chop fine; rub the butter and flour into a smooth paste; heat the milk and stir it into the oyster liquor; thicken with the flour and butter; add salt and pepper; stir over the fire until it thickens; add the oysters and serve hot. LOBSTER SAUCE—No. 363. Make a drawn butter sauce (No. 336); add to it one-half pint boiled lobster, chopped, and the coral rubbed to a smooth paste, with a little butter; stir over a moderate fire for five minutes, and serve hot. SHRIMP SAUCE—No. 364. Make a drawn butter sauce (No. 336); add to it one cup of chopped shrimps; stir over a moderate fire and serve hot. One cup of chopped shad roe may be substituted for the shrimps. CURRY SAUCE—No. 365. Add one teaspoon of curry powder to one-half pint of drawn butter (sauce No. 336). CHESTNUT Sauce-No. 366. 1 pint large chestnuts, 1 tablespoon four, 1 pint stock, 1 rounded tablespoon butter, 1 teaspoon salt, teaspoon pepper. To Cook: Shell the chestnuts; throw them into cold water and boil until soft; remove the skins; mash fine; rub the flour and butter in a smooth paste and thicken the stock with it as soon as it boils; stir in the chestnuts; salt and pepper; stir constantly for five minutes and serve. CRANBERRY Sauce-No. 367. 1 quart cranberries, 1 pint water, 1 pound sugar. To Cook : Pick and wash the cranberries, cover with the water, and boil until the berries burst; press them through a colander; stir 142 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. has been used, add the lemon juice and stir a few minutes longer; keep in a cool place until ready to use. Should the mayonnaise curdle, break the yolk of an egg into a cold bowl and stir into it, very slowly and gradually, the curdled dressing. The secret of success in making mayonnaise is to have everything cold, to add the oil in drops at first and very slowly afterwards, and always to stir in the same direction. This dressing may be kept in a covered jar in a cold place, and used for meat and vegetable salads. Cooked SALAD DRESSING—No. 371. 1 gill of vinegar, teaspoon of salt, , 1 tablespoon sugar, 1 teaspoon of mustard, 1 gill of rich cream or milk, 2 eggs. To Mix: Beat the eggs well; mix the sugar, salt, and mustard into a smooth paste with cold water; beat them into the eggs; put the milk on the fire in a double boiler; beat the vinegar into the eggs, and when the milk comes to boiling point, pour into it, very slowly, the egg, etc., stirring constantly; when it begins to thicken, take from the fire, pour into a cold bowl, and stir to prevent its curdling. Serve cold. French DRESSING-No. 372. 3 tablespoons of olive oil, 1 tablespoon vinegar, 1 teaspoon of salt, 1 teaspoon of sugar, a little pepper. To Mix: Mix into the oil the dry ingredients, which have been mixed into a smooth paste with cold water; when perfectly smooth add the vinegar slowly, and stirring all the time in the same direc- tion. Melted butter or bacon essence may be substituted if oil is not liked. Use one-half the quantity of bacon essence that you would of oil or butter. This dressing is nice for lettuce, tomatoes, etc. GIBLET GRAVY-No. 373. 1 set of giblets, 1 pint boiling water, 1 tablespoon flour, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 teaspoon salt, $ teaspoon pepper, a little cayenne. To Make: The neck, feet, liver, and gizzards of fowls are known as giblets. Wash the giblets very carefully, then put them in a saucepan with the water and put on the fire to cook; rub the butter and flour together until perfectly smooth (brown the flour for roast 144 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. To Make : Shell the chestnuts and boil them; remove the skins and mash them; add the butter, salt, and pepper; mix thoroughly and give the whole a good beating before using. The chestnuts may be roasted instead of boiled, but are more troublesome to pre- pare and no better than when boiled. SAUSAGE STUFFING–No. 381. Add to the plain bread stuffing (No. 374) one-half pint of sausage. If the sausage is very highly seasoned, omit salt and seasoning. Raisin STUFFING—No. 382. Add to the plain bread stuffing one pint of seeded raisins. OYSTER STUFFING–No. 383. Add to the plain bread stuffing one-half pint of oysters from which all grit, etc., has been removed; dust well with salt and pepper before mixing with the bread stuffing; when oyster stuffing is used for fowls, strain the oyster liquor aud use it to baste the fowl instead of the water which is usually put in the bottom of the pan. Unless the oysters are small, it is best to divide or chop them. Fried OYSTER STUFFING—No. 384. Add one-half pint of oysters, fried by directions No. 196, to the plain bread stuffing. Drop a few oysters into the gravy. HAM AND VEAL FORCE MEAT—No. 385. 1 pint cold chopped veal, yolks of 3 eggs, 1 pint cold chopped ham, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, pint stale bread crumbs, teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon mixed mustard, } teaspoon pepper. To Make : Beat the eggs until light; beat into them all the other ingredients; mix and beat until perfectly light; put in a double boiler and cook five minutes, stirring constantly. Cool and use for stuffing fowls, etc., or for making small balls, dipped in egg and bread crumbs, and fried by directions No. 592. These balls are used in soups, stews, and for garnishing. CHICKEN FORCE MEAT—No. 386. 1 pint chopped chicken, yolks of 2 eggs, 1 pint white stock or milk, 1 pint bread crumbs, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, 1 teaspoon pepper, 1 teaspoon salt. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 145 To Make: Free the chicken from all skin and fat before chopping; put the stock or milk on to boil; add the bread crumbs; stir until it thickens; add the eggs well beaten, then the chicken and seasoning, stirring constantly. Stand away to cool until ready to use. FORCE MEAT BALLS FOR TURTLE OR Mock-Turtle Soup (No. 120)—No. 387. pint meat from the soup, yolks of 3 eggs, pint bread crumbs, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon onion juice, 1 tablespoon Worcester sauce, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 teaspoon pepper, 1 tablespoon sherry. To Make : Chop the meat very fine, removing all small bones and gristle; beat the eggs until light; beat into them all the other ingre- dients, the wine last; mix thoroughly, and give the whole a good beating; set aside to cool; when cold, flour your hands, and form into small balls; fry in boiling lard. Brains, Sweet-Breads, Etc. Brains—No. 388. The brains of all animals are used for food, and are both digesti- ble and nutritious; but those of the hog and calf are best. They must be carefully cleaned and kept in a cold place or on ice, as they spoil easily. As soon as the brains come from market put them in a bowl of cold water and let them stand one hour; then change the water and wash carefully, removing the fine skin and little blood- vessels that are all around them. Change the water and wash until perfectly free from blood. If it is not time to cook them return to the ice. SCRAMBLED BRAINS—No. 389. 1 pound brains, 1 tablespoon butter, 3 eggs, 1 teaspoon salt, teaspoon pepper. To Cook: Beat up the brains until they are broken, then mix with them the well-beaten eggs; beat in half the butter, melted, also salt and pepper; put the remainder of the butter in a hot pan; pour in the brains and eggs, stirring constantly until done. Serve hot on toast or in a covered dish. POACHED BRAINS—No. 390. Prepare the brains as directed in No. 388; have a saucepan of salted boiling water; drop the brains in and cook until firm; take up with a perforated dipper; drain perfectly dry; cut in pieces of a suit- able size; dress with melted butter; salt and pepper, and serve very FRIED BRAINS—No. 391. Poach as above directed; put aside to cool. When cold and firm, cut in pieces of suitable sizes; dust with salt and pepper and fry in boiling fat. FRIED BRAINS—No. 392. Prepare the brains as directed in No. 388; beat up one pound of brains; add to them four well-beaten eggs; season with one table- spoon of melted butter, one scant teaspoon of salt, one-fourth of a teaspoon of pepper; put some butter in a hot frying-pan; pour in the hot. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 147 brains and fry until a light brown, turning them so as to brown both sides. Serve very hot with tomato catsup. The brains may be fried in small cakes instead of one large one, if preferred. BAKED BRAINS—No. 393. Prepare as directed for poached brains; beat them up with one tablespoon of melted butter, one scant teaspoon of salt, one-fourth teaspoon of pepper to each pound of brains; put in a buttered baking- dish and bake a nice, light brown. Poached and baked brains are valuable food for children and sick persons. LIVER—No. 394. Calf's liver is the best, though that of other animals is used for food, and lamb's liver is very nice. As soon as you get it wash it carefully and dry with a soft cloth; put it on the ice or in a cold place until ready to use. Fried LIVER—No. 395. Cut the liver into thin slices and scald it; wipe dry; dust with salt and pepper; fry in boiling fat until thoroughly done, but do not cook it long enough to make it tough. LIVER AND Bacon-No. 396. Prepare the liver as above directed; cut as many thin slices of bacon as you have pieces of liver; cut off the skin and trim; put the bacon into a frying-pan and cook until brown; put it on a dish where it will keep hot; dust the liver with salt and pepper and fry it in the fat left from the bacon. Serve hot, with a slice of bacon on each slice of liver. BROILED LIVER-No. 397. Prepare the liver as directed for frying; season with salt and pep- per and broil with butter over a clear fire, first on one side, then on the other. When done serve hot, with a little melted butter on each slice. StewED LIVER—No. 398. 1 pound liver, , 1 pint water, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon flour, 1 teaspoon pepper, 1 tablespoon butter. To Cook: Prepare the liver as directed; cut into pieces about two inches square; put them on to boil in the water, and simmer gently 148 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. until the liver is done; rub the butter and flour together until per- fectly smooth; thicken the stew with this, letting it boil up once after thickening; stir to prevent burning, and serve hot. One table- spoon of Worcester sauce may be added to this stew, if liked. Baked LIVER—No. 399. 1 pound of call's liver, 1 tablespoon onion juice, 1 pound bacon, 1 tablespoon Worcester sauce, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon mushroom catsup, * pint boiling water, 1 tablespoon butter, 2 gills bread crumbs. To Cook : Prepare the liver as directed; cover with boiling water and let it stand five minutes; take it out of the water and wipe dry; wash and trim the bacon and cut it into small pieces; cut the liver into pieces twice as large; mix liver and bacon; stir into them all the ingredients except the bread crumbs and half of the butter; put into a buttered baking-dish; cover with the bread crumbs and put the butter in little bits over the top of the dish; pour the boiling water over the whole. Put the dish in a moderate oven and bake slowly for one hour. Serve hot... IMITATION PATÉ DE FOIE GRAS—No. 400. 3 pounds calf's liver, 1 grated nutmeg, 1 teaspoon cayenne, 1 teaspoon pepper, 1 teaspoon powdered cloves, 1 teaspoon Worcester sauce, 1 teaspoon mustard, 1 tablespoon melted butter, 1 teaspoon onion juice, 1 tablespoon boiling water. To Cook : Prepare the liver as directed; boil until tender; drop into cold water; when cold wipe perfectly dry; chop very fine and work into it all ingredients ordered; work until perfectly smooth; taste to see if sufficiently seasoned; add anything necessary, and pack in small jars. If you wish to keep this pour over each jar melted butter enough to cover it, and keep in a cool place. This is nice for pâtés or tea or lunch. BAKED CALF'S HEAD-No. 401. 1 calf's head, 2 quarts water, 1 onion, 1 bunch herbs, 3 whole cloves, 1 stalk celery, Worcester sauce and catsup, 1 teaspoon salt. INSTRUCTION IN Cooking. 149 To Cook: Clean and prepare the head as for calf's-head soup (No. 120); take the brains out and put them one side; put the head to boil with the onion, herbs, celery, and cloves in a saucepan with the salt and water; after it comes to a boil simmer gently until the meat is tender (about three hours); skim carefully after the first boil; when the head is done take it from the water; remove the tongue; skin and cut it into slices; cut the meat from the head carefully; chop it fine and mix with the slices of tongue; then add one pint of the liquor in which the head was boiled; add a tablespoon of mushroom catsup, a tablespoon of Worcester sauce; put into a buttered baking- dish; sprinkle bread crumbs over the top; prepare and fry the brains in little cakes; lay these on top of the dish and serve hot. KIDNEYS–STEWED KIDNEYS—No. 402. Be sure that the kidneys are perfectly fresh. Split them, trim off the sinews and fat which are inside; cut the kidneys in small pieces, put in a stew-pan, cover with cold water, stand on a moderate fire, and let the water come to boiling point. Do this three or four times, being careful not to let the kidneys boil, or they will be tough. Put one tablespoon of butter in a frying-pan, and stir until a nice brown; then add one tablespoon of flour and one-half pint of stock; stir until perfectly smooth; drain the kidneys and stir them into this mixture; season with salt and pepper, and, if you like it, Worcester sauce; continue to stir and simmer until the kidneys are tender. Serve hot. Fried KIDNEYS—No. 402. Split the kidneys in half lengthwise and trim off every sinew and all the fat from the inside; pour boiling water over the kidney and let it stand for eight or ten minutes; repeat the scalding three times; dry the kidney on a soft cloth; dust with salt and pepper; rub with butter and fry in a hot pan until tender and slightly browned. Serve hot, with catsup of any kind preferred. BROILED Kidneys—No. 403. Prepare the kidneys as directed for frying, dust well with salt and pepper; rub with melted butter and broil on a buttered griddle until tender. Serve with maître d'hotel sauce. KIDNEYS EN BROCHETTE—No. 404. 6 kidneys, $ pound bacon, 1 tablespoon butter. 150 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. To Cook: Split and prepare the kidneys as before directed (No. 402); then wipe them dry and cut them in rather small pieces; trim the bacon and cut it into slices, and then into pieces the same size as the kidneys; place one piece of kidney on a skewer, then a piece of bacon, then kidney, and so continue until the skewer is full; broil them over a clear fire for eight minutes, basting with the butter. Serve hot on the skewers. BROILED KIDNEYS—No. 405. 2 pairs sheep's or lamb's kidneys, 1 tablespoon flour, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, 1 teaspoon pepper, 1 teaspoon salt. To Cook: Draw the thin skin off the kidneys; then cut each kid- ney almost in two; cut the hard white substance from the centre; wash the kidneys well, and soak them in salt and water for one hour, at the end of that time wipe them dry; melt one tablespoon of the butter; add the lemon juice, salt, and pepper to it; dip the kidneys in this, then roll them in flour; put the rest of the flour on the griddle, put in the kidneys, and broil until done (about ten minutes), turning frequently. Serve in a hot dish, with the gravy from the griddle poured over them. How to PREPARE A CALF's HEART—No. 406. Soak the heart four hours in cold water; wash thoroughly, remov- ing all the muscles and blood from the inside; fill with one pound of uncooked veal, chopped fine; one-quarter of a pound of salt pork, chopped fine; one-half pint of dry bread crumbs, one tablespoon of onion juice, one teaspoon salt, one-quarter of a teaspoon of black pepper; mix all well together before filling the heart; wrap in a floured cloth and stand it in a small saucepan, with the point down; cover with boiling water and simmer three hours; take it out and remove the cloth; cook in a quick oven one hour, basting fre- quently with melted butter. Serve with a brown sauce (No. 340). These directions apply also to a beef's heart. STEWED SHEEPS' HEARTS—No. 407. 2 sheeps' hearts, 2 ounces fat salt pork, 2 tablespoons minced onion, 1 teaspoon salt, 2 tablespoons flour, 1) pints water, 1 teaspoon pepper. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 151 To Cook : Split and wash the hearts; season them with half the salt and pepper and roll in the flour; put the pork in a frying-pan; when done add the onions and cook for ten minutes longer; then take the pork and onions from the frying-pan and put them in a stew- pan; put the hearts in the frying-pan; cook until done, turning so as to cook on both sides; then put them in the stew-pan; pour the hot water into the frying-pan and stir until all the sediment is mixed with it; then pour it over the hearts; mix the flour left into a smooth paste with two tablespoons of cold water and add it to the gravy in the stew-pan, stirring to prevent lumping; add the remainder of the salt and pepper and place the stew-pan where the gravy will simmer for three hours. Slow cooking makes the hearts tender. Serve the hearts with the gravy strained over them. Boiled rice is nice with this dish. CHICKEN'S LIVER EN BROCHETTE—No. 408. 4 chicken livers, 8 slices breakfast bacon. To Cook : Cut the bacon very thin; cut the livers in two, after washing them; season with salt and pepper; fold each piece of liver in a slice of bacon and fasten with a small skewer; broil over a clear fire for ten minutes. Draw out the skewer and serve hot, with the liver on the bacon and both on a piece of toast. Calf's liver, if young and tender, may be cut into small pieces and cooked the same way. CALF's FEET, STEWED–No. 409. 4 calf's feet, 1 quart boiling water, 1 onion, 1 ounce sweet bacon, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon chopped thyme, 1 teaspoon pepper, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, 1 gill Madeira wine, $ teaspoon powdered cloves. To Cook: Clean the feet by directions for cleaning hog's feet (No. 268); boil and chop them fine, being careful to remove all small bones; peel and slice the onion and fry it with the bacon; cut in slices; add to this the calf's feet, herbs, and spices; cover the whole with boiling water; put the top on the stew-pan and put it on a part of the stove where it will simmer for two hours; when perfectly done add the salt; take out the bacon, herbs, and onion; stir in the salt and Madeira; taste to see if properly seasoned; add anything needed. Serve hot in a covered dish, or on squares of toast. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 153 stirring it constantly; season with pepper and salt, and pour over and around the sweet-breads; if the gravy is not perfectly smooth, strain it. This dish is pretty surrounded with cauliflower or aspara- gus heads. BROILED SWEET-BREADS—No. 415. Prepare as directed (No. 412); split the sweet-breads, using for this purpose a silver knife; dust with salt and pepper; cover with olive oil or melted butter, and leave in a cold place two hours before broiling them. When ready to broil, butter the broiler, or griddle, and broil over a fire of clear coals, turning frequently to prevent scorching. Serve with or without maître d'hotel sauce. These are nice served with a border of macaroni cooked with cheese (No. 548) or trimmed with the little flowers of cauliflower. Serve drawn butter or cream sauce if you use the cauliflower. The macaroni can be piled around, forming a little nest, or can be baked in a border mould. The head of cauliflower must be picked to pieces, and the flowers arranged prettily around the sweet-bread. BAKED SWEET-BREADS—No. 416. 2 fine, large sweet-breads, } pint boiling water, 2 ounces sweet larding pork, pint chopped mushrooms or 1 1 tablespoon butter, small can French mushrooms, 1 tablespoon flour, pint stock, teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon pepper. To Cook : Prepare the sweet-bread as already directed (No. 412); cut the pork into little strips and throw into very cold water; lard the sweet-breads with the lardoons; dust them with salt and pepper; place them on a rack in a hot pan; pour the water into the pan and place in a moderate oven; baste constantly with the water until the sweet-breads are a nice brown, turning frequently to prevent scorch- ing; when done put on a hot dish and keep warm; add to the gravy in the pan the stock; rub butter and flour together and thicken the gravy, stirring constantly to prevent burning; add the mush- rooms (if canned, drain off all the liquor); stir in the remaining salt and pepper and pour over and around the sweet-breads. Roasted SWEET-BREADS, OR SWEET-BREADS EN BROCHETTE- No. 417. Prepare the sweet-breads as directed (No. 412); cut them in pieces of equal size; cut of the same size a piece of pork for each 154 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. piece of sweet-bread; put on a skewer one piece of pork, then one piece of sweet-bread, and so continue until the skewer is full; place on a rack in a warm pan and cook until brown, basting frequently with melted butter. Serve in the middle of a fat dish a pile of green peas, placing the sweet-bread on the skewers around the peas. CREAMED SWEET-BREADS—No. 418. 1 pint sweet-breads, chopped in } teaspoon salt, small pieces, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 pint milk, 1 tablespoon flour, $ teaspoon pepper. To Cook: Prepare the sweet-breads as directed (No. 412); chop them with a silver knife, and put in a cool place; put the milk, or cream, if you can get it, in a double boiler, rub the butter and flour to a perfectly smooth paste, and beat until light and creamy; thicken the milk with this, stirring constantly, until the four is cooked; stir in salt, pepper, and sweet-breads, and serve at once in paper cases or individual saucers. Should it be necessary to keep this or any similar dish of sweet-breads, do not mix them with the cream until the last moment, as sweet-breads toughen by standing. STEWED SWEET-BREADS—No. 419. 1 pint chopped sweet-breads, 1 pint stock, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 tablespoon flour, i tablespoon salt, tablespoon pepper. To Cook: Prepare the sweet-breads as directed in No. 412; put the stock in a double boiler, and when it boils thicken with the butter and flour, previously rubbed together until perfectly smooth; stir in the salt, pepper, and sweet-breads. Serve hot on toast or in a covered dish, or, if preferred, in individual saucers. Sweet-breads cooked in this way are valuable food for the sick, but in picking or chopping them the uttermost care should be taken to remove every particle of skin or fibre as well as every little pipe. SWEET-BREADS Á LA COOKING-SCHOOL-No. 420. 2 large, fine sweet-breads, 1 tablespoon butter, pint chopped mushrooms, or 1 1 pint cream or milk, small can French mushrooms, 1 gill sherry, teaspoon salt, $ teaspoon pepper, 1 tablespoon flour. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 155 To Cook : Prepare the sweet-breads as already directed; put the milk on in a double boiler; rub the butter and flour together until perfectly smooth; beat this into a cream; add one at a time the yolks of the eggs; give the whole a good beating; add to this, little by little, the milk, stirring all the time; when all the milk is used wash the double boiler and put the mixture back in it; return to the fire; add the salt and pepper and stir constantly until the mixture begins to thicken and the flour is cooked; stir in the sweet-breads, mush- rooms, and, last, the sherry. Serve hot in paper cases or Bouchees (No. 598). SWEET-BREADS WITH ORANGES—No. 421. 2 large sweet-breads, 4 oranges, 1 tablespoon flour, 1 heaped tablespoon butter, 1 pint clear stock, 1 teaspoon salt, } teaspoon pepper. To Cook : Choose the largest sweet-breads you can get; gash very lightly in two or three places, being careful not to cut through; rub well with melted butter; squeeze the juice of one orange, and strain over the sweet-breads, being careful to have it go in the gashes; dust lightly with salt and pepper; put in a warm pan on a rack; pour the stock in the bottom of the pan and place it in a mod- erately hot oven; cook until a nice brown, basting all the time with the stock. When done, take out the sweet-breads; squeeze and strain another orange over them, and put where they will keep hot; add one gill of boiling water to the gravy in the pan; mix well, and thicken with remainder of the butter and the flour rubbed to- gether until perfectly smooth. Serve the sweet-breads on a flat dish, with the gravy poured over and around them, garnished with thin slices of orange, from which the peeling has been removed and the seed extracted. Made-Over Meat Dishes. Hash—No. 422. Cut meat into small pieces; to every pint of meat allow one-half pint of stock or boiling water, in which the bones of the meat have been boiled; one tablespoon of butter, one tablespoon of browned flour; put the water, or stock, in the stew-pan and add seasoning of salt, pepper, onion, or anything preferred, and, if you like, chopped Irish potatoes may be added; brown the flour, rub smooth with the butter, and thicken the gravy with it; stir in pieces of meat; taste to see if properly seasoned, and serve hot, either in a covered dish or on squares of toast. If served on toast, dry the hash enough to prevent its running. SHEPHERD's Pie-No. 423. 1 pint finely chopped meat, 1 tablespoon of butter, 1 pint mashed Irish potatoes, 2 eggs, seasoning to taste. Beat the eggs light; beat into them all the other ingredients; mix thoroughly; put in a buttered dish; sprinkle with bread crumbs and bake. Nice Dish of COLD LAMB AND Rice-No. 424. Chop fine the cold lamb, rejecting all skin and gristle; boil one- half pint of rice until soft; beat the rice until light and smooth; when cool, stir into the rice the prepared meat, one tablespoon of melted butter; salt and pepper to taste; season with anything preferred; last, stir in lightly the well-beaten whites of two eggs; put into a buttered dish and bake. Serve hot. In making this dish use the same quantity of meat that you have rice after the rice is boiled. Chicken may be substituted for lamb. Minced MEAT ON TOAST—No. 425. Remove all the fat and gristle from cold meat and chop it fine. To one pint of the meat allow one saltspoonful of salt, a little pep- per, and one-half pint of thickened gravy; heat quickly in a saucepan and pour on slices of toast. Serve hot. 158 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. fine, MEAT BISSOLES OR PUFFs—No. 430. 1 pint cold meat or chicken chopped 1 pound foundation pastry (No. 645), 1 tablespoon butter, pint stock or boiling water, #grated nutmeg, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon pepper. To Cook: Chop the meat fine; put the butter in a frying-pan, and when it is hot stir in the meat, adding nutmeg, salt, and pepper, stirring all the time; when it is slightly browned put into a stew-pan with the stock or boiling water; put where it will simmer for one hour, or until it has evaporated enough to leave a dry stew; taste to see if properly seasoned; if not, add what is necessary and set aside to cool; roll the pastry one-eighth of an inch thick; cut it into squares of five inches; put a spoonful of hash in the middle of each square; double the four corners until they meet; put in a hot oven and bake. Serve on a folded napkin in a meat dish. BOUDINS Á LA REINE–No. 431. 1 pint cooked chicken or veal, 1 tablespoon onion juice, chopped, 1 pint cream, 1 tablespoon butter, 2 eggs, pint stock or boiling water, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, 1 teaspoon pepper, 2 tablespoons dry bread crumbs. To Cook: Put the butter in a pan to melt; add the bread crumbs and stock; stir until it boils, then take from the fire and add meat, parsley seasoning, and the well-beaten eggs; fill custard cups two- thirds full; stand in a pan half-full of boiling water and bake in a moderate oven until firm; when done turn out on a hot dish and serve with cream or tomato sauce (Nos. 341 and 345). STUFFED Peppers-No. 432. 6 large bell peppers, 3 green 1 pint chopped cold meat or and 3 red, chicken, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 gill bread crumbs, † teaspoon pepper, 1 teaspoon celery salt, 1 egg, 1 teaspoon onion juice. To Make: Split the peppers through the stems; remove the seed and lay the peppers in cold water for twelve hours; mix the chopped INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 159 meat, or chicken, with the bread crumbs and seasoning; beat the egg and stir into the meat; mix all well together; drain the peppers; dry them on a soft cloth and fill them (slightly heaping each one) with the prepared meat ; sprinkle over a few bread crumbs; melt the butter, and pour it over. Put in a moderate oven until the bread crumbs are nicely browned, but not long enough to discolor the peppers. Serve on a flat dish, garnished with parsley. CRABS IN PEPPER Shells—No. 433. 3 red bell peppers, pint mayonnaise, 3 green bell peppers, 1 pint crab meat, picked, 11 teaspoons celery salt, 1 pint chopped celery, } teaspoon pepper, very little cayenne. To Make : Season the crab with the salt and pepper, tossing it with two forks, not stirring. Mix with it the chopped celery; fill the peppers with the mixture, heaping them slightly. Put on top of each a teaspoon of mayonnaise; serve on a flat dish garnished with nasturium leaves and blooms. The peppers may be filled with the crab meat without the celery. Cold fish, turkey, or any suitable "left over" meat may be served in this way, making a beautiful and inviting dish. Dish OF BAKED MEAT—No. 434. 1 pint cold meat, chopped, 1 egg, 6 large tablespoons flour, 1 pint milk, 1 teaspoon celery salt, 1 teaspoon pepper, 1 tablespoon butter. To Cook : Beat the egg, without separating, very light; beat into it all the other ingredients. When mixed, give a thorough beating before adding the meat; put in a buttered baking-dish, and bake in a moderate oven. Serve hot in the dish in which it was baked. CECILS—No. 435. 1 pint cold meat, chopped fine, yolks of 2 eggs, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 teaspoon onion juice, 2 tablespoons bread crumbs, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon lemon juice, 1 teaspoon pepper. To Cook : Beat the eggs until light; beat into them all the ingre- dients except the butter; put this into a frying-pan, and, when hot, stir into it, over the fire, the mixture already prepared. When it 160 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. begins to thicken, take from the fire; spread on a dish, and when cold, form into balls about the size of a walnut. Dip first in beaten egg, then in bread crumbs, and fry in boiling fat. Serve with béchamel sauce (No. 357). BEEFSTEAK PIE-No. 436. i pound foundation pastry (No. 1 tablespoon flour, 645), pint stock or boiling water, 1 quart cold beef, cut in small 2 tablespoons butter, pieces, 1 teaspoon pepper. 1 teaspoon celery salt. To Cook: Put one tablespoon of butter in a frying-pan, and stir into it until smooth the flour; add the meat, stock, and seasoning. Stir until thoroughly heated and slightly brown. Take from the fire, and add the remainder of the butter. Line a baking-dish with the pastry; put in the prepared meat; cover the dish with the pastry remaining; cut a hole in the top; press the edges of the crust close together, and bake in a quick oven three-quarters of an hour. Serve hot in the dish in which it was baked. CORN-BEEF HASH-No. 437. 1 pint cooked corn beef, chopped 1 teaspoon salt, fine, 1 teaspoon pepper, 1 pint cold boiled potatoes, chopped 1 teaspoon onion juice, fine, * pint stock or water, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 tablespoon flour, To Cook: Mix the meat and potatoes together; put them, with the stock, into a stew-pan; add onion juice, pepper and butter and flour mixed together until perfectly smooth; stir until it boils and begins to thicken. Serve on buttered toast. COOKING-SCHOOL HASH–No. 438. 1 quart cold meat, chopped fine, 1 pint water, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 onion, 1 teaspoon celery salt, teaspoon pepper, 2 hard-boiled eggs, bones left from meat. To Cook: Put the bones on with one quart of cold water; boil until reduced to the pint needed; chop the onion and hard-boiled eggs very fine; mix them in with the meat and put all into a stew- pan; add water, butter, salt, and pepper; stew and stir over a slow fire for fifteen minutes. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 161 fine, TONGUE OR HAM ON TOAST—No. 439. 1 pint tongue or ham, chopped teaspoon mustard, yolks of 2 eggs, very little cayenne. To Prepare: Beat the eggs very light; add the meat and season- ing; put into a stew-pan and stir the whole over the fire until the eggs are cooked. Serve immediately on toast. HAM BALLS—No. 440. 1 pint cold, chopped ham, 1 gill milk, pint mashed Irish potatoes, yolks of 2 eggs, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, teaspoon nutmeg, $ teaspoon pepper, very little cayenne. To Prepare : Boil the milk; add to it all the other ingredients; the well-beaten yolks of eggs last. Stir over the fire until thor- oughly heated; take from the fire; spread on a flat dish to get cold and firm. When cold, flour your hands, make into balls, dust lightly with flour, and fry in hot fat. SAUSAGE CAKES—No. 441. 1 pound pork sausage, 1 pound bread crumbs, 2 eggs, 2 tablespoons flour. To Prepare : Mix the bread crumbs with the sausage; beat the eggs until light, and work them into the mixture. Flour your hands, and make into cakes. Put on a hot griddle and fry. FILLETS OF Cold MEAT—No. 442. 1 pound meat, 2 ounces bread crumbs, 1 egg, 1 teaspoon celery salt, 1 teaspoon pepper, lard to fry. To Prepare: Cut the meat into slices about one-quarter of an inch thick and three inches long; dust with salt and pepper; roll in the beaten egg and then in bread crumbs; fry in the boiling lard and serve hot, garnished with parsley. BEEF BROILED WITH Tomato Catsup—No. 4421. Cut the slices of beef rather thicker than for serving cold; put them on a hot griddle and broil, browning on both sides; put a tea- spoon of tomato catsup on each slice of the beef and serve hot. 11 162 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. MUTTON OR LAMB BROILED WITH HAM–No. 443. Slice the fresh meat rather thicker than for serving cold; cut half as many slices of ham as of fresh meat; these should not be as thick as the mutton; dust with pepper and broil together on a hot grid- dle; garnish with thin slices of lemon. Hot Pot-No. 444. 1 pod red pepper, 1 quart stock or boiling water, 2 pounds cold cooked mutton, 6 Irish potatoes, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, 2 onions, salt and pepper. To Cook : Cut the mutton or lamb into pieces about one inch square; peel, and cut four of the potatoes and the onions into dice. Put a layer of the meat in the bottom of a buttered baking-dish, then a layer of potatoes, then a sprinkling of salt, pepper, onion, and parsley. Chop the pepper, and sprinkle on top, and so con- tinue until all is used. When the dish is full cut the two remaining potatoes into four slices each, cutting crosswise; put these over the water, or stock, and bake in a moderate oven until done (about two hours). Serve in the baking-dish. RAGOUT OF BEEF OR VEAL_No. 445. 1 tablespoon lemon juice, 1 blade of mace, 1 pint cold meat, cut into pieces teaspoon pepper, about one inch square, } pint stock, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 tablespoon flour, 1 tablespoon onion juice, 2 tablespoons sherry, 1 teaspoon salt. To Cook: Put the butter in a frying-pan, and stir until a nice brown; stir the flour in until smooth and brown; add the stock, mace, onion juice, catsup, Worchester sauce, salt, and pepper; stir until well mixed; add the meat, place over a moderate fire to sim- mer for twenty minutes. When done add the wine, and serve very hot. Mutton.stewed in this way, with one tablespoon of cur- rant jelly added, is known as imitation venison stew. VEAL ROLLS OR CROUSTADES—No. 446. 1 dozen round rolls, 14 pounds cold veal, chopped, pint stock or boiling water, 2 tablespoons butter, 1 teaspoon pepper, 1 teaspoon celery salt, 1 teaspoon onion juice, 1 teaspoon lemon juice. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 163 To Prepare : Cut the top from the rolls and remove all the crumb; butter them inside; put them in a hot oven until brown and crisp. Put the butter left into a pan; when hot, stir into it the veal, stock, or water, and all the seasoning. Simmer for fifteen minutes, stirring to prevent burning. Fill the croustades with the stew; put on the tops, and serve on a folded napkin in a meat dish. VEAL PIE—No. 447. Line a shallow bakıng-dish or pie plate with “foundation pastry” (No. 645). Fill with the above stew; put on a top crust of pastry; bake in a quick oven, and serve hot in the dish in which the pie is cooked. RAGOUT OF Duck-No. 448. The remains of two roast ducks, 2 tablespoons butter, 1 pint stock or boiling water, 2 tablespoons flour, 1 tablespoon onion juice, 1 teaspoon lemon juice, 1 tablespoon mushroom catsup, gill sherry. To Prepare : Cut all the meat from the ducks; cover the bones, after breaking them up, with the stock or boiling water. Simmer gently for one-half hour; strain the bones out, and thicken the stock with the butter and flour rubbed together. Let it boil up once; add the duck, catsup, onion, and lemon juice; salt and pepper to taste. Let it boil up a second time; add the sherry, and serve immediately in a hot dish. Cold goose may be reheated in this way. TURKEY OR CHICKEN HASH-No. 449. Remove all fat and skin; measure the pieces of lean, and to each pint allow one quart water, one even tablespoon flour, one-half tea- spoon salt, one-quarter teaspoon pepper. Crack the bones and boil them with the water for one hour; strain off the water; add salt and pepper; thicken with the flour mixed into a smooth paste with a little cold water; stir in the turkey or chicken; simmer ten or fifteen minutes and serve hot in a covered dish, or simmer until the hash is dry, and serve on squares of toast. The above hash, dried out to the proper consistency and baked in a pie plate lined and covered with foundation pastry (No. 645), makes a nice pie. HASHED POTATOES SAUTÉD—No. 450. 8 medium-sized cold potatoes, 1 teaspoon salt, 1} ounces butter, $ teaspoon pepper. 164 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. To Cook: Slice the potatoes; put the butter in a frying-pan, and when hot add the potatoes; season with the salt and pepper and toss them well, in the pan, for two minutes; give them the shape of an omelet and cook until a light brown (about five minutes); with a spoon take out all the butter from the bottom of the pan, then slide the potatoes carefully on a hot dish and serve. HasheD POTATOES WITH CREAM–No. 451. 8 potatoes, 1 gill cream, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 ounce butter, $ teaspoon pepper. To Cook: Slice the potatoes and put them in a saucepan; add the cream and butter; season with the salt and pepper; stir with a spoon until well heated, and serve after stirring in one tablespoon of chopped parsley. CREAMED CHICKEN OR TURKEY-No. 452. 1 pint cold chicken or turkey, 1 pint milk, 1 heaped tablespoon butter, 11 teaspoons celery salt, 2 level tablespoons flour, teaspoon pepper. To Prepare : Free the chicken or turkey from skin, fat, and bones, and cut it into rather small pieces; season with half the salt and pepper. Put the milk in a double boiler; when it boils thicken with the flour and butter rubbed together until perfectly smooth; stir in the chicken or turkey; simmer for five minutes, and serve hot. One tablespoon of sherry wine may be added, if liked. TIMBALES OF CHICKEN AND RICE-No. 453. * pint rice, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 gill cream, 2 quarts cold water, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon pepper. For Filling. 1 pint chopped cold chicken, 1 gill stock, 2 tablespoons flour, 1 egg, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon pepper. 1 teaspoon onion juice, 1 teaspoon grated nutmeg. To Prepare : Wash the rice, and put it in a saucepan with the cold water; boil slowly for one hour, then drain in a colander; mash, and add the butter, cream, salt, and pepper. Mix all well together; butter one dozen small timbale moulds; press the rice into them, INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 165 and stand aside to cool. When firm take out the centre of the rice, leaving a wall and bottom; fill this cavity with the chicken prepared as follows, reserving the rice taken out for an upper covering: Free the chicken from bone, fat, and gristle, and chop very fine; mix all the seasoning with it; put the stock into a stew-pan over a slow fire; thicken with the flour mixed into a smooth paste with a little cold water; simmer and stir until it thickens; add the chicken and the well-beaten egg. Mix into the stock, stir well, and taste to see if properly seasoned. Put in a cold place or on ice until firm; fill the cavities with the chicken mixture; cover the timbales with the rice taken out; put them in a pan half-full of tepid water; lay a piece of thick paper over the top; place the pan in a moderate oven, and cook the timbales for twenty minutes. Turn them out on a hot dish, and pour a tomato sauce (No. 345) around them. This dish may be made in one large mould; in that case allow a longer time for cooking. If you have no timbale moulds baking-cups will answer. A Nice Stew of CHICKEN—No. 454. 1 pint pieces of cold chicken, 1 pint stock, 2 ounces butter, 1 raw egg, 2 hard-boiled eggs, juice of 1 lemon, 1 teaspoon salt, teaspoon pepper. To Prepare : Put the stock and chicken in a stew-pan and set over a moderate fire. When it begins to simmer, stir in the butter and beaten egg; season with the salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Simmer gently for ten minutes, stirring. Cut up the two hard-boiled eggs, and add them. Serve hot. CHICKEN AND OKRA STEW-No. 455. 1 fried chicken or its equivalent 1 teaspoon salt, left from a dish of chicken, 1 sliced onion, 1 pint boiling water, 1 small red pepper pod, 1 quart sliced okra, 1 tablespoon butter, teaspoon pepper. To Prepare : Slice the onion and pepper pod; mix it with the chicken. Put the okra into a saucepan with the water; cook slowly. When half-done, add the chicken, etc.; stir in the butter, salt, and pepper. Simmer slowly for twenty minutes. Dish and serve in a rice border (No. 547). The chicken should be served in whole pieces. Tomato catsup or sauce (No. 345) is a nice accompaniment to this dish. 166 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. CREAMED FISH–No. 456. 1 pint fish, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 pint milk, 1 tablespoon flour, 1 teaspoon celery salt. To Cook: Pick up any kind of cold fish, removing all skin and bones; put the milk in a double boiler; rub butter and flour to a smooth paste; thicken the milk with this; stir in the fish and salt. Serve very hot in cases or on toast. Fish CUTLETS—No. 457. 1 pint fish, yolks of 2 eggs, pint milk, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 teaspoon celery salt, 2 tablespoons flour, 1 teaspoon onion juice, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, 1 teaspoon white pepper, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley. To Cook: Pick up cold fish, removing all skin and bones; keep in a cool place; put the milk on the fire in a double boiler; rub butter and flour together until perfectly smooth; mix with the boiling milk; cook, stirring constantly until a thick paste is formed; stir this into the fish; add lemon and onion juice, salt and parsley; mix all thor- oughly and spread on a shallow dish to cool; when firm enough to handle, flour your hands and form into cutlets; beat the whites of the eggs with two tablespoons of cold water until the eggs are broken and mixed with the water; dip the cutlets into the egg, then into fine bread crumbs or cracker dust, and fry in boiling fat (directions No. 592). SCALLOPED FISH–No. 458. 1 pint pieces cold fish, pint milk, 2 tablespoons butter, 4 ounces bread crumbs, 1 egg, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon pepper, 1 teaspoon extract celery. To Prepare: Remove all skin and bone from the fish; heat the milk and put into it one-half of the butter and the egg beaten light; mix the fish and bread crumbs and add to them the seasoning. Butter a deep baking-dish, put in the fish and bread crumbs, and pour over the milk mixture; dot the top of the dish with the re- maining butter. Put in a moderate oven and cook until a nice brown. Serve in the dish in which it was cooked. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 167 FRITTERS MADE FROM ANY KIND OF Fish—No. 459. 1 pint sturgeon, or boiled fish, teaspoon pepper, chopped fine, 4 tablespoons flour, pint milk, 1 teaspoon salt, 2 eggs, lard to fry. To Prepare: Beat all ingredients together into a thick batter; drop by spoonfuls into the boiling lard and fry. Serve hot. Vegetables. All fresh vegetables are boiled in boiling water. Dry vegetables in cold water. ARTICHOKES—No. 460. There are two kinds of artichokes. Jerusalem artichokes are cooked like Irish potatoes. If you wish them boiled, after boiling mash through a colander; season with salt, pepper, butter, and cream or milk. Stir up over the fire once after seasoning, and serve hot. They also make a nice, fresh salad. French artichokes, also known as Burr artichokes, are not so common. To Cook : Wash and pick over, looking carefully for any grit or insects that may have gotten between the burrs. Plunge into boiling salted water with the burr part down, and let boil until a fork will penetrate to the core. Turn upside down on a hot platter to drain, and serve hot with drawn butter sauce, to which has been added vinegar or lemon juice to taste. ASPARAGUS—No. 461. Cut off the end, and skin or scrape each stalk of asparagus, beginning at the cut end. Lay in cold water as you scrape it. When all is prepared, pile into nice bundles, putting all the heads together. Tie each bundle with a clean string; put into boiling salted water, and boil gently until perfectly done, from fifteen to thirty minutes, according to the size of the stalks. Serve hot in a covered dish, or on nice slices of toast with or without cream cream sauce (No. 341). BEANS—No. 462. String Beans or Snaps. Remove the string or thread by breaking the stem end and pull- ing lengthwise, stringing both sides; break in half, or, if the bean is very large, into several pieces; drop into boiling salted water, and cook until tender. They may be cooked with or without bacon. If bacon is used it must be put on in time to be done, adding the beans in time to get them done at the same time with the bacon, allowing from one-half to one hour for the cooking. 170 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. Fresh Shell Beans—No. 463. Lima, Butter, or Navy Beans. Shell into cold water. When all are ready drop into boiling salted water, and boil gently until one of the largest beans can be easily mashed with a fork. When done drain and serve hot with or without a sauce or melted butter. Dried beans should be soaked in cold water five or six hours before putting on to boil, and require a longer time to cook; put on in cold water, and cook until tender. BEETS—No. 464. Wash very carefully without cutting, except to remove the tops, being careful not to break the skin. If you cut it all the juices escape and the beet is tasteless and faded; put into boiling water slightly salted, and boil gently, until done, from one to three hours, according to the size; try with a fork, running the fork in close where the stem is cut from the beet, to ascertain if it is done; peel or scrape; slice, and serve hot with butter, salt, and pepper, or cold with vinegar. Winter beets must be put on in cold water. CAULIFLOWER-No. 465. Take off the outer leaves; trim the root and stalk; examine be- tween each leaf and little flower to see that no grit or insects are hid in them; wash carefully, so as not to break the flowers; lay in cold water one-half hour before cooking; tie each head in a muslin or cheese-cloth and immerse in boiling salted water; turn the flower down in the water, have the water boiling rapidly as for cabbage, and put in it a lump of charcoal tied in a cloth; cook from thirty to fifty minutes, according to the size of the cauliflower; when the stalks are tender the cauliflower is done; drain by turning upside down, and serve in a hot dish with drawn butter or cream sauce. CauliflOWER AU GRAtin-No. 466. 1 head cauliflower, * pint milk, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 tablespoon flour, 3 tablespoons grated parmesan 1 teaspoon salt, cheese, $ teaspoon pepper. To Cook: Boil the cauliflower as directed (No. 465). Put the milk in a double boiler; mix the butter and four together until per- fectly smooth; thicken the milk with this, and stir constantly until it boils. Stir in salt, pepper, and cheese. Pour the sauce over the cauliflower and serve hot. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 171 BAKED CAULIFLOWER-No. 467. 1 head cauliflower, 1 pint cream sauce (No. 341), 4 tablespoons grated cheese, 4 tablespoons bread crumbs, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 teaspoon salt, $ teaspoon pepper. To Cook: Prepare and boil the cauliflower as directed (No. 465). When cold, pull the flowers apart. Put a layer of these in the bot- tom of a buttered baking-dish; sprinkle slightly with salt, pepper, bread crumbs, and cheese; pour over one-fourth of the cream sauce, and so continue until the dish is full, placing the heads of the flowers up on the top layer and sprinkling the top a little more thickly with bread crumbs than before. Dot the top of the dish with remainder of the butter, put in a quick oven and when a nice, pretty brown serve hot. Nice white cabbage may be cooked in the same way. CABBAGE–No. 468. Take off the outside leaves, opening the others to remove any insects or grit which may have found lodgment there; wash care- fully all over and between the leaves; quarter or divide the cabbage; lay it in cold water about one hour before the time of cooking; when it is ready to cook have prepared a kettle of water boiling just as hard as it can possibly boil; into it throw a teaspoon of salt and one teaspoon cooking soda; shake all the cold water from the cabbage and put it gently into the boiling water; leave the vessel in which you have the cabbage uncovered and cook until the stalks are ten- der (about thirty minutes). If bacon is to be cooked with the cab- bage, put on the bacon in proper time to get it done, adding the cabbage from thirty to fifty minutes before the time of serving, ac- cording to the size of the cabbage, being careful to have the water boiling briskly before putting in the cabbage. CREAMED Cabbage-No. 469. Chop the cabbage that has been boiled in plain salted water and stir it into a cream sauce made according to directions; add a little butter and serve hot. BAKED CABBAGE—No. 470. Chop fine the cabbage boiled in salted water; season with salt, pepper, cayenne, and butter; mix all well together; put into a but- tered dish, cover with bread crumbs, dot with little bits of butter, brown in a hot oven, and serve hot. 172 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. Fried CABBAGE-No. 471. Chop cold cabbage, removing the stalks; fry the essence from some slices of nice, sweet bacon; take the bacon out of the gravy and fry the cabbage in this gravy or sop; season with salt, pepper, and cayenne. Serve hot. CABBAGE PUDDING—No. 472. 1 head boiled cabbage, 1 pint milk, 2 tablespoons flour, 3 eggs, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon pepper. To Cook : Drain and chop the cabbage; separate the eggs; beat the yolks light, and beat into them the flour, milk, salt, pepper, and chopped cabbage. Butter a baking-dish; melt the remainder of the butter and add to the pudding; the white of the eggs last; stir well, and put the mixture into the baking-dish. Cook in a hot oven until a nice brown (about one-half hour). Serve hot in the baking-dish. STUFFED CABBAGE-No. 473. 1 cabbage, * pint sausage stuffing (No. 381), 1 teaspoon pepper, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 pint white stock, 1 tablespoon flour. To Cook : Boil by directions for boiling cauliflower (No. 465). Trim off the root and the coarse outer leaves; remove the heart from the cabbage, and chop it fine. Mix the sausage stuffing with this. Return to the hollow in the cabbage; draw the leaves up closely around, and bind them with a clean linen strip. Place in a pan; stir the salt and pepper into the stock, and pour it over and around the cabbage. Put in a moderate oven and bake, basting frequently with the stock. When done, thicken the stock with the butter and flour rubbed together until perfectly smooth. (Add more stock, or boiling water, if necessary.) Dish the cabbage on a heated flat dish. Pour the gravy around and serve. Cabbage may be boiled in salted water and served like cauliflower (No. 465), with melted butter or cream sauce. BOILED TURNIPS—No. 474. Wash and peel the turnips; if large, cut into slices crosswise; drop into boiling water and boil until tender; when done drain thor- INSTRUCTION IN Cooking. 173 oughly to get rid of all the water; mash fine; add one tablespoon butter, one teaspoon of salt, and one-fourth teaspoon pepper to each quart of mashed turnips. Serve hot in a covered dish. TURNIPS With Cream Sauce—No. 475. Wash and peel six small turnips; drop into boiling water and cook thirty minutes; drain until perfectly free of water, put in a covered dish, and pour over them one-half pint of cream sauce (No. 341). BROWNED TURNIPS—No. 476. Prepare and boil the .turnips as above directed; drain well in a colander; cut into slices one-quarter of an inch thick; put two table- spoons of butter in a frying-pan; when hot put in the slices of tur- nips and brown on both sides, being careful not to scorch. TURNIPS BOILED WITH CORNED BEEF OR Bacon-No. 477. Wash and peel the turnips as directed; if large, slice them and add them to the kettle in which the beef or bacon is boiling; if the water in the kettle is not sufficient to cover the turnips replenish with boiling water; cook until tender; drain and serve mashed or sliced around the meat. Rutabagas are larger and coarser than white turnips, and require a longer time for cooking; otherwise they are prepared in exactly the same way. TURNIP Tops—No. 478. Wash and pick as directed for spinach (No. 512); boil from twenty to thirty minutes with bacon or in salted boiling water, to be eaten with drawn butter; drain well before serving; if cooked without the bacon, garnish with slices of hard-boiled egg, or lay poached eggs on the top. When tender, turnip tops are nice served like spinach (No. 512). If boiled with bacon it should be cooked nearly done before adding turnip tops. LEEKS AND ONIONS—No. 479. Remove the outside skin, after having cut off the stem; drop in boiling salted water in which you have a piece of charcoal wrapped in a cloth. When half done, pour off the water and fill the kettle again with boiling water, or milk if you have it. When soft enough to run a straw through, drain and serve hot with melted butter or cream sauce. They should only be well covered with water or milk while boiling. 174 INSTRUCTION IN Cooking. STUFFED ONIONS- No. 480. Spanish onions are best for this purpose. Boil as directed (No. 479). When tender, drain free of water and cool. Remove the centre from each onion; chop it, and to each tablespoon of the chopped onion add one-half tablespoon of bread crumbs, one-half teaspoon melted butter, one-eighth teaspoon salt, and very little pepper. Mix well, and fill the hollow in the onions. Place the onions in a baking-pan; pour around them one pint of stock, or water, in which some bones have been boiled. (If the water is used, add to it one tablespoon of melted butter.) Put the pan in a mod- erate oven, and bake until the onions are brown, basting frequently. If there is more stuffing than the hollows will hold, spread it on top of the onions. FRIED ONIONS—No. 481. Peel and chop the onions (one pint). Put four slices of sweet bacon into a frying-pan. When the essence is fried from the bacon, dish it and put the onions in the essence. Fry brown, adding eggs or not as preferred. English Peas—No. 482. Shell the peas into cold water; let them stand in it about one-half hour; drain off through a sieve; throw into boiling salted water and cook until you can mash one of the largest peas with a fork. Just before serving, throw in one-half teaspoon of white sugar and uncover the kettle, drain from the water and serve hot with butter or cream sauce. Dried peas must be soaked several hours before cooking and put on in cold water. All dried peas are cooked in this way. PEA FRITTERS—No. 483. Mash cold peas of any kind (English peas are best); to each pint allow one teaspoon of melted butter, one egg beaten without sepa- rating, two tablespoons of flour, one-half teaspoon salt, one-eighth teaspoon pepper; mix all well together; flour the hands and form into cake; drop into boiling lard and fry until brown. Drain free of grease and serve hot. BLACKEYED PEAS—No. 484. If fresh, boil as directed for English peas (No. 482); if dried, soak and put on to boil in cold water; cook until done; mash, and to each pint of peas allow one-half teaspoon of salt, one-fourth teaspoon of pepper, and two slices of sweet bacon; mix the salt and pepper into INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 175 the peas; form them in a cake; put the bacon in a frying-pan and fry until all the essence is extracted; dish the bacon and fry the peas in the essence until brown. Serve hot, with the pieces of bacon on top of the peas. SWEET POTATOES—No. 485. Wash and trim the potatoes. To bake, put into a slow oven and bake with a moderate heat until soft; then put in a cooler part of the oven to soak, and serve hot, either in the skins or peeled and sliced. Another way: Boil according to directions given for boiling Irish potatoes; peel and slice; put into a baking-dish with butter and sugar, and nutmeg, if you like it, between each layer; put the dish in a hot oven and brown, or they may be peeled and sliced, after boiling, and served in a covered dish with butter and a little sugar between the layers. Serve hot. SWEET POTATOES BAKED WITH Wine-No. 486. 4 large sweet potatoes, 1 pint sugar, 2 tablespoons butter, 2 gills wine, 1 teaspoon salt, } pint water. To Cook: Boil or steam the potatoes; when cold, peel and slice them. Butter a baking-dish, put a layer of potatoes in the bottom, sprinkle with sugar and butter; then put another layer of potatoes, and so continue until the dish is full, having sugar and butter on top. Stir the salt into the water and pour it over the potatoes, and put the dish into a moderate oven. Cook until brown on top. Just before taking the dish from the oven pour over the wine. Serve hot. Fried SWEET POTATOES—No. 487. Steam or boil the potatoes; peel and cut them into slices one- quarter of an inch thick; sprinkle with a little sugar, dip in a beaten egg, roll in bread crumbs, and fry in boiling fat. Serve hot. BOILED Irish POTATOES—No. 488. Wash and trim Irish potatoes, selecting those of the same size and those with the smallest eyes; do not peel new potatoes, simply rub with a coarse cloth; old should be peeled very thin; put in a kettle with enough salted boiling water to cover the potatoes entirely; when done enough to pierce with a fork pour off the water, sprinkle with salt, remove to a cooler part of the stove, and leave to steam. When they begin to crumble, cover with a folded cloth and serve hot. 176 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. CREAMED POTATOES—No. 489. Boil the potatoes as directed; mash perfectly smooth; beat up until light; add one tablespoon butter, one gill cream, or milk; salt and pepper to taste; while preparing keep over a kettle of hot water; pile in a hot dish and serve hot immediately. FRIED IRISH POTATOES—No. 490. Boil as directed; mash smooth; season with salt and pepper; form into cakes; dust each cake with flour and fry in boiling lard. SARATOGA Chips—No. 491. Peel and slice the potatoes very thin; leave in cold water for one- half hour; strain from the water and dry; drop into boiling lard and fry a light brown; drain on a sheet of blotting paper; dust with salt and serve. ROASTED Irish Potatoes—No. 492. Wash and trim the potatoes; put them into a slow oven and cook with a moderate heat; when soft enough to pierce with a fork break the skin in one place and put the potatoes into a cooler part of the oven. Serve immediately. STEAMED IRISH POTATOES—No. 493. Prepare the potatoes as for boiling. Put them in a steamer (if you have one; if you have not, put them in a colander over a kettle of boiling water), cover, and steam until you can pierce with a fork; uncover, sprinkle with salt, and when white and crumbling serve covered only with a napkin. It takes a longer time to steam than to boil vegetables, but it is a far better way of cooking them. This is especially true of Irish potatoes. Baked Potatoes—No. 494. Prepare the potatoes as directed; boil or steam them; mash per- fectly smooth; beat into each quart one tablespoon of butter, one- half teaspoon of salt, one-fourth teaspoon pepper; beat all together until light. Put into a buttered baking-dish and cook in a moderate oven until a nice brown. Serve hot in the baking-dish. Potato PUFFs—No. 495. 1 pint mashed potato, 2 eggs, 2 tablespoons cream, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 teaspoon salt, teaspoon pepper. - - - - INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 177 To Cook: Beat the yolks of the eggs until perfectly light; beat into them the potato, which must be perfectly smooth; add the cream, salt, and pepper, and beat again; last, beat in the whites beaten to a stiff froth. Bake in buttered gem pans in a quick oven, or drop by spoonfuls on a buttered pan. They should be a nice brown color and perfectly light. Snow-FLAKED POTATOES—No. 496. Boil or steam the potatoes. When they are dry and mealy mash through a "Henis potato press” into the dish in which you intend serving them. Serve with them melted butter. Potato Balls. Cut with a potato scoop into round balls. Drop in boiling salted water and cook until soft; drain and steam. Serve hot, with cream sauce (No. 341). SCALLOPED POTATOES—No. 497. 6 boiled tomatoes, 1 pint cream sauce (No. 341), 2 gills bread crumbs, 1 teaspoon salt, $ teaspoon pepper. To Cook: Cut the potatoes into small pieces; butter a baking- dish; put in the bottom a layer of sauce, then a layer of potatoes, and so continue until the dish is full; sprinkle with the bread crumbs and brown in a quick oven. FRENCH FRIED POTATOES—No. 498. Peel the potatoes and throw them into cold water for one-half hour; then cut them with a potato scoop or in stripes; dry the pota- toes on a towel; drop them into boiling fat; take them out with a skimmer; drain; sprinkle with salt and serve hot. They may also be used as a garnish. POTATOES BAKED WITH MEAT—No. 499. Wash and peel the potatoes, selecting those of uniform size; one hour before the meat is done put them in the pan and cook with the drippings from the meat. SWELLED POTATOES—No. 500. Wash and peel the potatoes; peel around the potato without breaking until all is used; have ready two pans of hot lard, one very hot; drop the potatoes, one at a time, into the hot lard; when fried take them out and throw them into the very hot lard to swell; when done dust with salt and serve hot. 12 178 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. STUFFED POTATOES—No. 501. Scrub six large potatoes until perfectly clean; bake in their skins; when done pare a little piece from each end, being careful not to cut into the potato; divide in half, and with a teaspoon take all the po- tato out of the skins and put into a hot bowl; add one tablespoon of butter, a gill of cream, a teaspoon of salt, one-eighth teaspoon of pepper, and mix well; beat until light, then return to the skins, piling it on top. Put it in the oven and brown. If liked, one table- spoon of parmesan cheese may be added to the potatoes. STEWED CYMLINS—No. 502. Peel and cut in slices, remove the seed (if large), and put them in a saucepan with boiling salted water enough to cover. When done drain in a colander, pressing all the water from them. Mash fine, and to each quart add one tablespoon of butter, one gill of cream, or milk, one teaspoon of salt, and one-fourth teaspoon of pepper. Return to the saucepan and simmer until the proper con- sistency, stirring constantly, and being very careful not to scorch. BAKED CYMlins—No. 503. Boil and mash as above directed. Beat into the cymlins, after passing through a colander, one egg, one gill of milk, one table- spoon melted butter, one teaspoon salt, one-fourth teaspoon pepper. Put into a buttered dish and bake until brown. Fried Cymlins—No. 503). Peel, slice one-quarter of an inch thick, and fry by directions for frying egg-plant (No. 518). To Boil PUMPKIN—No. 504. Cut the pumpkin in half, remove the seed, then cut into pieces of convenient sizes. Peel, put into a kettle, cover with cold water, and boil until done (or cook in a steamer). When done press through a colander. Put one tablespoon of melted butter to each pint of mashed pumpkin; if not dry enough simmer to a proper consistency, being careful not to scorch.. BAKED PUMPKIN—No. 505. Cut the pumpkin into halves, then in quarters; take out the seed but do not peel. Put in a baking-pan with the skin down, and bake in a slow oven until you can pierce with a fork. When done serve hot in the skin. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 179 BOILED PARSNIPS-No. 506. Wash and peel, or, if tender, scrape. Put them into a saucepan with boiling water, if they are young; if old, cold water. Boil until tender, and drain. Unless very small, quarter them lengthwise; lay them on a heated dish, with the heads all one way. Pour over melted butter and serve hot. FRIED PARSNIPS—No. 507. Boil the parsnips as above directed. When done drain and mash, rejecting all strings and fibre; add to them one-half teaspoon of salt, one-quarter teaspoon pepper, and a tablespoon of flour; mix all well together. Form into cakes and fry in hot fat. FRIED PARSNIPS—No. 508. Boil the parsnips as above directed. Drain; divide each parsnip into four or six parts; dip in beaten egg, roll in bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat. STEWED PARSNIPS—No. 508). Boil as directed. Divide lengthwise and stew by directions for stewing carrots (No. 514). STEWED Salsify–No. 509. Wash and scrape the roots of the salsify, throwing it in cold water as you scrape it, to prevent its turning black. When all are done put in boiling water and cook until tender. Drain; cut into pieces one-half inch long; put into a double boiler, with one pint of cream to each pint of chopped salsify; add one teaspoon of salt, one-quarter teaspoon of pepper; thicken with one tablespoon of butter and one tablespoon of flour rubbed together until perfectly smooth. After adding the flour and butter stir over the fire until thick enough and serve in a heated covered dish. FRIED SALSIFY—No. 510. Prepare and boil as above directed. Dip each piece of salsify, without dividing, into beaten egg, and then roll in bread crumbs. Dust with salt and pepper and fry in boiling lard. Salsify FRITTERS, OR Mock OYSTERS—No. 511. Prepare and boil the salsify as directed (No. 509). When done drain and mash it; add one teaspoon of salt, one egg beaten light with a tablespoon of flour beaten into it, and one-fourth of a tea- spoon of pepper to one pint salsify; mix well and form into oyster- shaped cakes. Fry in boiling lard; drain and serve hot. 180 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. SPINACH—No. 512. Cut off the roots and pick the spinach very carefully. Wash re. peatedly in cold water until entirely free from grit; drain and shake off all the water. Put in a kettle, just cover with water; put over a moderate fire and cook for fifteen or twenty minutes. Pour into a colander and drain; chop very fine and put into a saucepan with two tablespoons of cream or milk, one-half teaspoon of salt, one-eighth teaspoon of pepper, and one even teaspoon of mustard, rubbed together with one tablespoon of butter; stir over the fire until very hot; add one teaspoon of vinegar, or, if you prefer it, one teaspoon of Worcester sauce. Serve in a heated dish, with hard- boiled eggs sliced and laid on top or chopped and mixed through the spinach. This quantity of butter, etc., is for one-half peck of spinach—not a very large dish. Spinach may be cooked without any seasoning and served garnished with poached eggs, each per- son seasoning to their taste. A PRETTY WAY TO SERVE SPINACH—No. 513. Cook and season as above. Chop until very fine, then press into little cups, turning each cup out on a square of buttered toast; gar- nish with hard-boiled egg. Instead of the little cups, one large fancy mould may be used, with the toast and eggs laid around it. Carrots—No. 514. Wash and scrape the carrots, and put on in boiling water when new, cold water when old. When done and tender cut in rings, put in a stew-pan with one-half pint milk, one tablespoon butter, one teaspoon of vinegar; salt and pepper to taste; boil up once and serve hot. Corn–No. 515. Shuck and remove carefully all the silk from the corn; drop into boiling salted water; cook from ten to thirty minutes. When done serve on the cob, or cut it off and heat it up again by putting the vessel containing the corn in boiling water, adding butter, salt, and pepper to taste. Corn PUDDING–No. 516. 1 pint corn, grated or scored from 1 pint milk, the cob, 1 tablespoon butter, 4 eggs, salt and pepper to taste. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 181 To Mix: Keep all the milk that runs from the corn while grating; beat the eggs separately, adding the corn and milk to the yolks; give the whole a good beating, then stir in the butter, the whites, salt, and pepper. Put in a buttered dish, and bake from one-half to one and a half hours, according to the size of the dish. Serve hot. Corn FRITTERS—No. 517. Add to the corn pudding batter enough flour to make a batter that will drop from the spoon (about 1 gill). Fry in hot fat and serve hot. EGG-Plant, Fries–No. 518. Peel egg-plant; cut it in slices about one-eighth of an inch thick, removing any large, coarse seed; sprinkle with salt, put in a dish, and cover until time to cook. Let it stand about one hour, then with a fork, or your fingers, shaking from each slice any surplus salt, dip in beaten egg, then in bread crumbs, and fry in boiling lard; dust with pepper and serve hot. BAKED EGG-PLANT—No. 519. Wash the egg-plant as it comes from the garden; put it into boil- ing salted water, whole. Boil until done; then peel, chop, and season with salt, pepper, cayenne, butter, and, if you like it, a little onion; add one-fourth as much bread crumbs as you have egg-plant. Put in a buttered dish, dot with butter over the top, and bake until brown. STUFFED EGG-PLANT—No. 520. Boil egg-plant as directed, but instead of peeling, divide through the middle lengthwise; cut a little slice from the bottom of each side to make the halves stand steady; scoop out the egg-plant, leaving the skin entire, like a shell; prepare the egg-plant as for baking; return it to the skin or shell, heaping it slightly; cover with bread crumbs; dot with butter. Brown in a hot oven and serve hot. Raw TOMATOES—No. 521. Peel with a knife or your fingers; slice; chill on ice and dress with mayonnaise, or French dressing. BAKED TOMATOES—No. 522. Peel by putting into boiling water. When the skins break re- move them; drain through a colander; chop, removing the cores; season with salt, pepper, brown sugar, and butter to taste. Put 182 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. into a buttered dish, sprinkle bread crumbs over the top, dot with butter, and bake in a moderate oven until perfectly done, from one- half to two hours, according to the size of the dish. STEWED TOMATOES—No. 523. Peel and prepare as for baking. Put on in a stew-pan and cook slowly, being careful not to burn. When nearly done season to taste with salt, sugar, and butter. Serve hot. BROILED TOMATOES—No. 524. Wash and gash large, smooth tomatoes; dust with salt and pep- per; put on a hot griddle with butter and broil until done. FRIED TOMATOES—No. 525. Wash, and cut tomatoes in slices about one-half inch thick; dust each slice with salt, pepper, and four. Fry out the essence from bacon as before directed, and fry the tomatoes in this while hot. Stuffed TOMATOES—No. 526. Select large, smooth tomatoes; wash, and cut a slice from the stem end; take a small spoon and empty the inside of the tomato into a bowl, add one-fourth as many bread crumbs, or corn cut from the cob in the same proportion; season to taste with salt, pepper, and butter; return this mixture to the skins or shells of the toma- toes, slightly piling them, cover with bread crumbs, dot with bits of butter, put in a pan so that each tomato will be separate and dis- tinct, and bake slowly in a moderate oven. Lift with a cake-turner when they are dished. MUSHROOMS—No. 527. The skin of a good mushroom peels off easily, and when young they should be a pale salmon or pink color underneath. In an hour or so they change to a dark brown, and are then called old mush- rooms, but are not necessarily bad. Pull off the stems, and if firm and solid they are good, but if perforated with holes throw them away. STEWED MUSHROOMS—No. 528. 1 pint water, 13 tablespoons butter, 1 quart mushrooms, 13 tablespoon flour, 1 teaspoon salt, $ teaspoon pepper. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 183 To Cook: Wash the mushrooms, peel, and drop them in cold water; cut off the bottom of the stalks, put them in a double boiler or a porcelain saucepan; roll the butter in the flour and rub together until perfectly smooth; add this to the mushrooms with the salt and pepper. Cook for fifteen minutes and serve immediately. CREAMED MUSHROOMS—No. 529. 1 pint mushrooms, * pint cream, } teaspoon salt, $ teaspoon pepper, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 tablespoon flour. To Cook: Wash and peel the mushrooms; drop them into cold water and cut off the bottom of the stalks. Put the cream in a double boiler; add the mushrooms, salt, and pepper; thicken the cream with the flour and butter, rubbed together until perfectly smooth. Stir constantly, and when the mushrooms are done (in about fifteen minutes) take from the fire and serve immediately in pastry shells or little cups. BROILED MUSHROOMS—No. 530. Prepare the mushrooms as above directed; dust with salt and pepper. Put a piece of butter on the griddle; when it melts put in the mushrooms, laying them stems up; put a little piece of butter in each mushroom; turn and brown both sides. Serve hot. BAKED MUSHROOMS—No. 531. Prepare the mushrooms as directed (No. 527). Cut off the stalks close to the top; place the mushrooms upside down in a shallow pan; dust with salt and pepper; put a little piece of butter in each mushroom. Put in a quick oven and cook twenty minutes, basting several times. Serve hot in the dish in which they were baked. SAUTÉD MUSHROOMS ON Toast—No. 532. 1 pound mushrooms, toast, teaspoon salt, 1 ounce butter, juice of } a large lemon, $ teaspoon pepper, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley. To Cook: Prepare the mushrooms as directed (No. 527). Drain and place them in a pan with the butter, salt, and pepper; cover and let them cook ten minutes, stirring a little. Squeeze in the juice of the lemon, add the parsley, and serve immediately on the toast in a hot dish. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 185 Add salt and pepper, and stir over the fire until the milk thickens. Beat this into the artichokes. Put into a buttered baking-dish and cook in a hot oven until a nice brown. ASPARAGUS IN AMBUSH–No. 537. 1 quart asparagus tops, 9 stale breakfast rolls, 1 pint milk, 4 eggs, 1 large tablespoon butter, 1 teaspoon salt, teaspoon pepper. To Cook: Wash the asparagus tops, boil fifteen minutes, and drain them in a colander. Cut the tops of the rolls off and take out all the crumb; then set them open in the oven to dry, laying each top by the roll from which it was taken. Put the milk on the fire to boil in a farina boiler. Beat the eggs until very light; then stir them into the boiling milk and stir constantly until it begins to thicken; add the butter, salt, and pepper, and remove from the fire. Chop the asparagus tops and add them to the milk. Take the rolls from the oven, fill them with this mixture, put on the tops, and serve hot. BROCCOLI–No. 538. Pick off the leaves and cut the stalk close to the bottom; lay in cold water for half an hour; tie in a cheese-cloth; put in a kettle of salted water and boil rapidly for twenty minutes; take out care- fully, untie the cheese-cloth; lay the broccoli in a hot dish, pour over it a half pint of drawn butter, and serve hot. BRUSSELS SPROUTS—No. 539. 1 quart sprouts, 1 tablespoon salt, gallon water. To Cook: Pick off the dead and coarse leaves and wash the sprouts in cold water, then put them in the half gallon of boiling water; add the salt and a quarter teaspoon bicarbonate of soda; boil rapidly in an uncovered saucepan for twenty minutes, then drain in a colander, and serve in a hot dish with drawn butter. BOILED HOMINY—No. 540. It is best to boil a large quantity of hominy at one time, as it is only used in cold weather, and keeps well. Wash well and put in tepid water the night before you intend boiling it. Measure three quarts of cold water to each quart of hominy, and put on in an iron pot and boil slowly for five hours, 186 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. stirring frequently. This is the usual way of boiling hominy, but it is far better to put it (after soaking) into a stone jar of a suitable size, cover the hominy with cold water, and set the jar in an iron pot with enough boiling water to cover the stone jar almost to the neck. This way of boiling takes a longer time than the other, but is really less trouble, as the only care necessary is not to let the water boil out of the iron pot. When done keep in a cold place where it will not freeze, and reheat at the time of serving. White hominy is nicest. To REHEAT HOMINY—No. 541. Put the hominy in a double boiler, surrounded with boiling water, and boil until very hot. Stir in butter and serve in a covered dish. FRIED HOMINY—No. 541). Press the hominy into shape; heat the fat in a frying-pan; put in the hominy and fry brown on one side; turn with two battercake turners; brown the other side and serve hot. SMALL HOMINY, OR Grits—No. 542. To Boil: Wash a pint of grits through several waters; put into a double boiler; cover with cold water and soak several hours. Add more water, if all has been absorbed, and boil in the double boiler one hour. Add a teaspoon of salt, a tablespoon of butter, stir well, and serve hot. FRIED GRITS—No. 543. Boil the grits as above directed. When cold cut in slices, dust each slice with flour, and fry in boiling fat. Rice-No. 544. One pint rice, carefully picked and washed, three quarts boiling salted water; sprinkle the rice lightly into the boiling water; do not stir it, but shake the pan to prevent its burning; when you can mash one of the grains with your finger, pour off the water; sprinkle with a little salt, and set on a cooler part of the stove to steam; steam until each grain separates, then serve in a hot dish. Baked Rice-No. 545. For this purpose cold rice answers best; to each pint of rice allow one egg, one teaspoon of butter; salt and pepper to taste; beat all together until light, adding a little milk, if necessary to soften, put in a buttered dish, and bake a nice brown. INSTRUCTION IN COoking. 187 Fried Rice-No. 546. Prepare as for baked rice, having it stiff enough to form into cakes; dust each cake with flour, and fry in boiling lard. All vege- tables that are boiled can be cooked with less trouble and much nicer in a steamer if you have one, or can possibly get one. Direc- tions for use come with each steamer. How to MAKE A RICE BORDER-No. 547. 1 pint rice, 1 quart boiling stock, 1 teaspoon salt, } teaspoon pepper. To Make : Wash the rice in cold water and pick it well; drain and put it in a saucepan with the stock. Boil rapidly for fifteen minutes, then stand it over a moderate fire to steam twenty min- utes longer. Drain, season with the salt and pepper, and press into a well-buttered border mould. Put the mould in the oven and bake fifteen minutes. Take out, place a dish over the mould, turn it upside down, and remove the mould. BAKED MACARONI–No. 548. pound macaroni, } pound grated cheese, 2 tablespoons butter, pint milk, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon pepper. To Cook: Break the macaroni into three parts; drop it into a kettle with boiling water enough to cover it; add to the water one teaspoon of salt and boil rapidly for twenty-five minutes. Drain in a colander; butter a baking-dish; put a layer of macaroni in the bottom of the dish; sprinkle with salt, pepper, and cheese; scat- ter little bits of butter over the cheese; then another layer of maca- roni, and so continue until the dish is full. Put little bits of butter over the top, pour over the milk, and put in a moderate oven to bake until a nice brown. Serve hot in the baking-dish. MACARONI WITH CREAM SAUCE—No. 549. Boil the macaroni as above directed; when done put it in a colan- der to drain; sprinkle grated cheese through the macaroni as you dish it; pour over it one-half pint of cream sauce (No. 341), and serve hot. This can be served without the cream sauce, with a little melted butter poured over, and cheese passed with it. 188 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. SPIGHETTI with Tomatoes—No. 550. Spighetti comes in smaller sticks and is a more delicate form of macaroni. pound spighetti, 1 large tablespoon butter, 1 tablespoon sapsago cheese, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 pint stewed tomatoes, $ teaspoon pepper. To Cook: Put the ends of the spighetti in boiling salted water in- stead of breaking, as directed for macaroni; boil rapidly for twenty minutes; drain in a colander, then stand the colander in a pan of cold water for ten minutes; melt the butter, add it, the salt and pep- per, to the tomatoes, which have been already cooked and strained; stir the tomatoes over the fire until they boil; add the spighetti and cheese, and serve in a heated dish. MACARONI Á LA PIZZINI–No. 551. 14 pounds lean beef, 1 gallon cold water, pound macaroni, 1 pound grated cheese, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 teaspoon salt, teaspoon pepper, 1 onion, a very little cayenne. To Cook: Wash the meat by directions No. 204. Put on in the cold water and boil slowly until the water is reduced to one-half gallon; peel and slice the onion; put the butter in a frying-pan, and when hot put the onion into it and cook until brown. Stir the flour into the butter until perfectly smooth; take out the onion; strain the meat from the soup; stir the browned flour and onion juice into the soup. Return to the fire, and when it boils stir in the salt and pepper and put in the macaroni, not breaking it into very small pieces. Cook about one-half hour, or until the macaroni is done. Sprinkle with grated cheese as you dish the macaroni. Serve hot. MACARONI Á LA ZETELLE—No. 552. 1 quart tomatoes, 11 ounces sweet, ſat bacon, 1 carrot, 6 sprigs of parsley, 1 onion, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon flour, 1 teaspoon pepper, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 pound macaroni, yolks of 2 eggs, 8 tablespoons grated cheese. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 189 To Cook: Wash the bacon, cut off the rind, and cut it into small pieces; peel and slice the carrot and onion; wash and chop the parsley; peel, drain, and chop the tomatoes before measuring, re- jecting the cores. Put all on together and stew for one-half hour. Press through a colander, not allowing the herbs, carrot, or onion to go through. Return to the saucepan and thicken thus: Beat the eggs until light; mix the flour and butter until perfectly smooth; beat them into the eggs; add two tablespoons of cheese and beat again; add the tomato to this very gradually until the mixture is thin enough to pour back in the saucepan. Put in the salt and pepper; stir over the fire until it is the consistency of thick boiled custard. Set aside to keep hot until serving time. Put the maca- roni in boiling water enough to cover it; boil till done (twenty or twenty-five minutes); drain. Sprinkle the remainder of the cheese through as you dish the macaroni. Dress with the tomatoes and serve very hot. This is a delicious dish and valuable in the spring, when vegeta- bles are scarce; is nutritious as well as palatable. MACARONI AU GRATIN—No. 553. 1 pounds macaroni, 1 pint allemande sauce (No. 350), 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon nutmeg, 1 teaspoon pepper, 2 gills bread crumbs, 1 pound grated cheese, 2 tablespoons melted butter. To Cook: Boil the macaroni as directed (No. 548). Moisten with the allemande sauce; season with the pepper, salt, and nutmeg; add half the grated cheese; toss all well together. Put in a buttered baking-dish; sprinkle the top with the remainder of the cheese and bread crumbs; melt the butter and pour over and place in the oven. When a golden color (about fifteen minutes) take from the oven and serve. MACARONI TIMBALE—554. pound macaroni, 1 four-pound chicken, } can French mushrooms, or 1 can truffles, pound fresh mushrooms, 2 large sweet-breads, 1 teaspoon salt, pint cream, 1 pint cream sauce (No. 341) or 8 teaspoon pepper, tomato sauce (No. 345), 1 gill Madeira wine. 190 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. To Cook: Put the macaroni in boiling water and cook until rather soft but not entirely done. Throw it in cold water for ten minutes and drain through a colander. Lay it in rows, and with a sharp knife cut into pieces about one-half inch long. Butter a plain, round mould or bowl; line it with the macaroni, setting the maca- roni on end and beginning to line it from the bottom. Build up all the sides in the same way, so when it is turned out it will look like a honeycomb. Put on ice while the filling is prepared. Filling. Boil or steam the chicken (by directions No. 309) until tender. Chop (not mince) rather fine, rejecting skin and fat. Boil the sweet-breads twenty minutes; throw into cold water for ten minutes; skin; chop with a silver knife, rejecting all pipes and threads. Mix the sweet-breads with the chicken. Chop mushrooms and truffles and add them; also the cream, salt, pepper, and, last, the wine. Mix all well together; taste to see if properly seasoned. Take the bowl lined with the macaroni from the ice, fill it with this mixture, pressing it gently to keep the macaroni in place. Put it in a steamer and let it steam until perfectly done and firm. When done turn it out, pour half the sauce around it, and serve the remainder in a gravy dish. Have all very hot. Entrees. EGGS, ALMONDS, CHEESE, SALADS, CROQUETTES. SOFT-BOILED EGGS—No. 555. Put the eggs into boiling water and let them stand from four to ten minutes where the water will keep hot but not boil. ANOTHER WAY to Boil EGGS SOFT—No. 556. Put the eggs in boiling water and boil from three to five minutes. Hard-BOILED Eggs—No. 557. Put the eggs on in cold water, or in water just bubbling, and cook twenty minutes. If the shells are to be taken off, for stuffed eggs, etc., drop in cold water as soon as they are done. Leave in the cold water ten or fifteen minutes, when the shells can be removed without difficulty. SCRAMBLED EGGS—No. 558. Break the eggs into a bowl and beat them until the whites and yolks are mixed. Put a tablespoon of butter into an egg-pan and put it over the fire. When it is hot put in the eggs and stir con- stantly until they are set. Serve immediately. SHIRRED EGGS—No. 559. Butter the little tin cups of an egg poacher (or any shallow tin cups); pour boiling water in the bottom of the underneath pan; break one egg into each cup, cover, and when it is set dust with salt and pepper; put a small piece of butter on the top of each egg, and serve in the cups in which the eggs were cooked. POACHED EGGS—No. 560. Have a shallow pan of boiling water, put into it one teaspoon of salt; break the eggs one at a time into a saucer, slide them from the saucer into the boiling water; put the eggs in until you have enough, but do not crowd them; when the white of the egg is set slide a cake- turner under it and lift it from the water, shake the water from it, and slide it from the turner upon a piece of buttered toast. 13 194 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. FRIED EGGS—No. 561. Fry some nice, sweet slices of bacon until the essence is extracted. When all is extracted dish the bacon and drop the eggs, one at a time, into the hot grease; if this is not deep enough to cover the eggs put it over them with a spoon. When the whites are set take out with a cake-turner and serve on a hot dish with or without the bacon. Plain OMELET—No. 562. Put four eggs into a bowl, and beat them until well mixed but not very light. Put a tablespoon of butter in a frying-pan and let it melt. When hot pour in the eggs and cook over a quick fire until they are set. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, fold, and serve on a hot dish. PLAIN OMELET—No. 563. Separate four eggs and beat into the yolks one-half teaspoon of salt, one-eighth teaspoon of pepper, and one teaspoon of melted butter, into which has been mixed, until perfectly smooth, one tea- spoon of corn starch. Put one tablespoon of butter in a frying-pan, and when hot beat into the yolks the whites, beaten to a stiff froth. Pour into the pan, and when set put the pan into a hot oven and brown the top of the omelet. Be careful not to burn the bottom while in the oven. Slide out on a hot dish and serve. HAM OMELET—No. 564. Make a plain omelet (No. 562). As soon as it begins to thicken sprinkle over it chopped ham. Fold, when set, and serve hot. Chopped meat or fowls of any kind may be used in the same way, or grated cheese, chopped parsley, etc. Potato OMELET-No. 565. Slice two boiled potatoes rather thin; dust them with salt and pepper. Make a plain omelet (No. 562). Put a tablespoon of butter in a frying-pan; pour in the omelet, and when it begins to thicken drop in the sliced potatoes; sprinkle over them one teaspoon of finely chopped onion, or one dessertspoon of onion juice. When done fold and serve hot. Potato OMELET—No. 566. Slice three cold potatoes very thin. Put a tablespoon of butter in a frying-pan, and when very hot add the potatoes. Cook until INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 195 a nice brown; sprinkle with salt, pepper, and a little chopped parsley. Keep them hot while you make a plain omelet (No. 562). When the omelet is nearly set scatter over the potatoes. Cook a few minutes longer, fold, and serve. TOMATO OMELET—No. 567. Peel and slice four large, sound tomatoes. Put a tablespoon of butter in a frying-pan; sprinkle the tomatoes with salt and pepper, prevent burning. Make a plain omelet (No. 562), using another pan to cook it in. When set spread the tomatoes on the top of the omelet, fold it, and serve hot. SPANISH OMELET—No. 568. Cut one-quarter of a pound of bacon in small pieces and fry it until brown; then add to it one large tomato, one small onion, and five mushrooms, chopped fine. Cook for fifteen minutes, stirring to prevent burning. Make a plain omelet (No. 562), and when it is set pour the mixture over the omelet. Dust with salt and pepper, fold the omelet, and turn it out in the middle of a hot dish. In cooking an omelet great care must be taken not to burn it. This can sometimes be prevented by slipping a cake-turner between the omelet and the pan just at the place where there is most danger of burning. The skillful making of omelets is an art only to be acquired by practice. For beginners, the following directions may be found useful: Break and separate four eggs, beat the yolks light, add one teaspoon melted butter, one-half teaspoon salt, one-eighth teaspoon ground pepper; mix well; add the whites, beaten very stiff, put a tablespoon of butter into an omelet pan; when the butter hisses pour in the eggs, place over a clear, not too hot, fire; watch carefully; if necessary, slip a cake-turner between the pan and ome- let where the fire is hottest. When the eggs are set slip the cake- turner under one side, fold, and dish the omelet. EGG VERMICELLI–No. 569. Boil eight eggs hard (No. 557); drop into cold water; remove the shells; cut the eggs in half crosswise. Toast nicely six slices of bread, butter them, and lay on top the whites of the eggs, cut in rings; arrange tastefully on the toast; dust with celery salt and white pepper; dust the yolks also with celery salt and pepper and press them through a Henis potato press. Pile on top of the whites, 196 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. and serve quickly that the toast may not get cold. Let some of the whites show around the edges of the toast underneath the yolks. STUFFED EGGS—No. 570. Boil six eggs hard, divide through the middle crosswise; cut a little slice from each end; take out the yolks; rub them into a perfectly smooth paste with a few drops of cold water; add to them one tea- spoon of celery salt, one-half teaspoon of dry mustard, very little cayenne, one tablespoon of melted butter, one and a half tablespoons of bread crumbs, and one-half teaspoon onion juice, if you like it; mix all together until smooth; fill the whites with this mixture, forming them into little pyramids; sprinkle bread crumbs over the top; brown slightly and serve hot or cold on a bed of lettuce or endive. SALTED ALMONDS—No. 571. Shell, blanch, and put them on a tin; add to each pound of almonds a dessertspoon of butter and put them in a moderate oven; stir and shake them around to prevent burning. When a golden brown take them from the oven; dredge them thickly with salt, stir, and turn out to cool. When cold put in a colander, shake off the surplus salt, and serve. GRILLED ALMONDS—No. 572. Shell, blanch, and dry the almonds; put into a frying-pan one tablespoon of butter for each pound of almonds. When hot stir in the almonds, stir until a nice brown; add one tablespoon of salt and stir again. Cook until a little darker than salted almonds. Take from the fire, pour into a colander, and shake off the surplus salt. Cool and serve. To BLANCH ALMONDS—No. 573. Shell the almonds; put them into boiling water. Set on the back of the stove for five minutes. Take the almonds out with a perfo- rated dipper, drop them into a bowl of cold water, and rub between the hands to remove the skins. Dry on a soft cloth and they are ready for further use. Salted PEA-Nuts—No. 574. Pea-nuts are salted exactly like almonds (No. 571). Cheese Biscuit—No. 575. 1 pound flour, 1 pound grated parmesan cheese, pound butter, $ teaspoon salt, 1.10 teaspoon cayenne. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 197 To Make: Work all well together with the hand; roll the paste one-eighth of an inch thick. Cut it into biscuit and bake in a quick oven. CHEESE STRAWS—No. 576. pound flour, 4 ounces butter, 1 egg, 3 ounces parmesan cheese, 1-10 teaspoon cayenne, 1 gill milk, 1 teaspoon salt. To Make: Make a hollow in the centre of the flour, in which put all the ingredients, pouring the milk very slowly. Mix all well together and roll out about one-eighth of an inch thick; cut into strips one-eighth of an inch wide and six inches long. Bake in a quick oven; bake some rings with the cheese straws to pass them through, or tie the bundles of straws with ribbons. BAKED CHEESE—No. 577. * pint grated cheese, 1 scant teaspoon salt, * pint milk, 1 teaspoon dry mustard, } pint bread crumbs, 1-10 teaspoon pepper, 2 eggs, 1 teaspoon butter, very little cayenne. To Make: Separate the eggs; beat the yolks light, and beat into them the milk, bread crumbs, cheese, salt, pepper, cayenne, and, last, the whites, beaten very stiff. Put in a buttered baking-dish and bake in a quick oven. Serve immediately. CHEESE SOUFFLÉE—No. 578. 2 ounces grated American cheese, 5 eggs, 2 ounces grated Parmesan cheese, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 ounce butter, very little cayenne. To Make: Beat the yolks of the eggs very light; beat into them the cheese and butter (melted); add salt and cayenne. Beat the whites until very stiff and beat them lightly into the yolks, etc. Bake in small cups or paper cases about ten minutes and serve im- mediately. WELSH RARE-Bit-No. 579. pound English cheese, grated, 3 eggs, pint fine bread crumbs, 2 tablespoons melted butter, 2 tablespoons mixed mustard, 1 teaspoon salt. 198 INSTRUCTION IN Cooking. To Make: Mix all together; beat till smooth. Have ready some slices of nicely-toasted bread with the crust taken off. Spread them thickly with this mixture and set on the upper shelf of the oven until a nice brown. Serve immediately. Welsh Rare-Bit-No. 580. Toast carefully thin squares or diamond-shaped slices of bread with the crust removed. While hot butter them slightly and dip for a moment in a pan containing enough hot water to half cover them. They should be only slightly moistened. Place each slice on a hot plate, allowing one slice for each person; sprinkle over a little salt and pour over enough melted cheese to cover them. Serve immediately, otherwise the cheese will harden, the toast will get cold, and the dish altogether be quite ruined. Select rich, new cheese for this dish, as it is more easily melted. GOLDEN EGGS—No. 581. Put six soda crackers into boiling fat and fry until brown; take them out, drain, and put where they will keep hot. Put in a sauce- pan one-half pint grated cheese, two gills milk, one-fourth teaspoon salt, one-eighth teaspoon dry mustard, very little cayenne, and stir over the fire until all are melted and well mixed. Cover each cracker with this mixture and place a poached egg on each. CHEESE PUFFs—No. 582. Roll some nice, light pastry into a thin sheet; cut it into small squares; sprinkle over each square some nicely-flavored grated cheese; fold them so as to form a half square. Bake in a quick oven fifteen or twenty minutes. Royal CROQUETTES—No. 583. 1 pint finely-chopped chicken or 1 teaspoon of salt, meat, 2 tablespoons of butter, 1 pint boiled rice, cracker dust, a little pepper, 2 eggs, 1 gill of milk, lard to fry. To Make: Put the milk on to boil; add rice, meat or chicken, one egg beaten light, and seasoning; stir until well mixed; pour out to cool. When cold and firm form into croquettes and finish accord- ing to directions. After moulding or forming the croquettes put them in a cool place while you prepare the egg for dipping, the cracker dust for rolling, and the lard for frying them. Beat the INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 199 egg until white and yolk is well mixed; stir in one tablespoon water to each egg, dip each croquette into this mixture, and roll in cracker dust or bread crumbs; place in the frying-basket and im- merse in boiling lard or cottolene, prepared thus: Put the pan con- taining the fat over a slow fire until it is entirely melted, then in- crease the strength of the fire until the grease boils. Let it boil until a blue smoke arises from the grease; test it by putting in a piece of bread the size of the croquette to be fried; if this browns immediately, immerse the croquettes and fry as brown as you like them. Should you wish to fry a second supply the grease must be heated up again. When croquettes are immersed, lower the basket into the pan gently and slowly. As you take the croquettes out of the basket put them on a piece of blotting paper in a pan where they will keep hot. Should you wish to reheat the croquettes run the pan in which you have placed them into a hot oven. These directions apply to all quick frying. Fish, chicken, or anything that requires to be cooked longer must be kept in until done, re- ducing the heat after the article to be fried is browned. CREAM CROQUETTES—No. 584. 1 pint chopped chicken or 2 large 1 large tablespoon butter, sweet-breads, 2 large tablespoons flour, 1 pint milk, lard to fry, any seasoning preferred, cracker dust to roll in, salt, pepper, and cayenne to taste. To Make : Chop the meat very fine; if sweet-breads are used they should be carefully prepared according to directions; put the milk on the fire in a double boiler; rub the flour and butter together; beat until very light; thicken the milk with the butter and flour according to directions already given for thickening, and stir constantly after thickening until a smooth, thick paste is formed; cook until this leaves the sides of the pan; take it from the fire, and mix the meat thoroughly into the thickened milk; season and turn out to cool; before turning out taste to see if properly seasoned; when cold and firm, form into croquettes; beat the whole egg until the white and yolk is mixed, add a tablespoon of water to the egg, stir well, and dip each croquette into the egg, then in fine bread crumbs or cracker dust; fry in boiling lard in a frying-basket, if you have one; put on blotting paper in a pan to drain, and serve hot with or without sauce. Veal may be substituted for chicken or sweet-bread. 200 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. SCRAP CROQUETTES—No. 585. One pint fresh meat, measured after it is chopped; one pint of bread crumbs, soaked in one gill of milk; one egg, beaten light; one tablespoon melted butter; salt, pepper, and seasoning to taste; one egg to dip croquettes in; cracker dust for rolling; lard for frying. To Make: Beat the bread crumbs light and smooth, mix with them the meat, beaten egg, butter, salt, pepper, and seasoning; knead all until thoroughly mixed; taste to see if properly seasoned; if not firm enough to form into croquettes, spread and put on ice; form into croquettes and finish as directed (No. 583). Ham CROQUETTES—No. 586. One-half pint finely chopped ham; one pint boiled and mashed Irish potatoes; three eggs; one tablespoon melted butter; salt, pepper, cayenne, and seasoning to taste; bread crumbs or cracker dust to roll in; lard to fry with. To Make : Mix with the potatoes while hot, one egg; beat until smooth; season; turn out to cool. While the potatoes are cooling put the ham in a frying-pan with an egg, stir over the fire until well mixed, and the egg is cooked; season and turn out to cool; when all is firm take a large tablespoon of the potato and form a hollow in the palm of your hand; put into this hollow a large teaspoon of the ham, fold the potato over the ham, making a potato ball with a ham centre; finish as directed for croquettes (No. 583), and serve hot. To make potato croquettes use the potato mixture alone; form into croquettes, and finish as directed. MixED CROQUETTES—No. 587. 1 pint chopped meat, or chicken, 1 tablespoon of butter, pint chopped ham, salt tongue, 2 eggs, or beef, seasoning to taste, $ pint bread crumbs, or mashed bread crumbs or cracker dust, Irish potatoes, lard. To Mix: Mix all together; knead thoroughly; season in any way preferred, besides salt and pepper to taste. Form into croquettes and finish as directed (No. 583). VEAL AND BRAIN CROQUETTES—No. 588. 1 pint chopped veal, 1 egg, 1 tablespoon butter, salt, pepper, and seasoning to pint cooked brains, taste, cracker dust. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 201 To Mix: Knead all together; taste to see if properly seasoned. Form into croquettes and finish as directed (No. 583). Rice CROQUETTES—No. 589. 1 quart milk, 5 eggs, 1 pint raw rice, 1 tablespoon melted butter, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, salt and pepper to taste. To Make: Boil milk and rice together until done; beat until very light and smooth; add the well-beaten yolks of four eggs. Cook ten minutes after adding the eggs. Take from the fire, season and turn out, and leave until cold and firm. Form into croquettes and cook according to directions No. 583. The fifth egg is used for dipping the croquettes in. SWEET-BREAD AND MUSHROOM CROQUETTES—No. 590. 1 pint chopped sweet-breads, 2 eggs, 12 mushrooms, or } can French lard to fry, mushrooms, 1 pint cream or milk, 1 rounded tablespoon butter, 2 rounded tablespoons flour, 1 scant teaspoon salt, } teaspoon pepper, 4 ounces bread crumbs. To Make: Prepare the sweet-breads as directed (No. 412); chop them with a silver knife; chop the mushrooms also, if necessary, and mix them together. Put the cream or milk on the fire in a double boiler; rub the flour and butter together until perfectly smooth. When the milk boils add very little at a time to the butter and four, stirring constantly until the mixture is thin enough to pour back into the double boiler. Add the salt and pepper and continue to stir over the fire until the mixture begins to thicken and leave the sides of the pan. Then mix in the sweet-breads and mushrooms; when thoroughly mixed spread on a flat dish and set on the ice to harden. When firm mould or form into croquettes. Beat the eggs until the whites and yolks are mixed; beat in two tablespoons of cold water; mix thoroughly, and dip the croquettes in the egg first, then roll in the fine bread crumbs. Fry in boiling lard by directions for frying (No. 583). Irish Potato CROQUETTES—No. 591. 1 pint mashed Irish potatoes, 1 ounce butter, 1 teaspoon celery salt, 1 teaspoon onion juice, 1 pint cream. 202 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. To Make: Put the potatoes in a saucepan with the butter; stir in the cream; add seasoning; continue to stir over the fire until the mixture begins to thicken. Take it off, spread on a flat dish, and put in a cold place or on ice. When firm form into croquettes and finish as directed (No. 583). Flour the hands before forming the croquettes. Sweet PotaTO CROQUETTES—No. 592. 1 pint mashed sweet potatoes, 1 ounce butter, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon sugar, $ teaspoon pepper, 1 teaspoon nutmeg, 3 eggs. To Make: Put the potatoes in a saucepan with the butter, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and sugar. When the mixture is hot stir in one egg; stir until perfectly smooth; set aside to cool. When cold form into croquettes and finish as directed (No. 583). EGG CROQUETTES—No. 593. 8 hard-boiled eggs, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 gill bread crumbs, 1 gill milk, 1 teaspoon chopped onion, 1 tablespoon flour. To Make: Chop the eggs very fine; add to them the bread crumbs and chopped onion. 'Rub together the flour and butter until perfectly smooth; add the milk slowly and cook until it begins to thicken; then add other ingredients and set aside to cool. When cold finish as directed (No. 583), or bake instead of frying, if pre- ferred. MACARONI CROQUETTES—No. 594. 1 pound Italian macaroni, 1 ounce butter, 1 ounce parmesan cheese, 1 ounce cooked smoked tongue, 1 truffle or 6 mushrooms, 1 egg, 1 quart boiling water, 2 ounces bread crumbs, 1 teaspoon salt, } teaspoon pepper, lard to fry. To Cook : Boil the macaroni in the water for twenty-five minutes; drain and put it in a saucepan with the butter, half the cheese, the tongue cut into small pieces, the truffle or mushrooms, cut in the same way; heat all together, tossing the macaroni around to prevent its burning; when all are thoroughly mixed, spread the preparation one inch thich on the bottom of a buttered dish, cover with a buttered INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 203 paper, press it well down, and put aside to cool; when cold cut with a small, plain pastry cutter; roll each croquette in the remainder of the cheese; dip in the beaten egg, roll in the bread crumbs, and fry in the boiling lard by No. 583. CRAB CROQUETTES—No. 595. 1 pint picked crabs, 1 tablespoon butter, pint milk, 3 tablespoons flour, 11 teaspoons celery salt, 1 teaspoon pepper, 1 teaspoon lemon juice, 1 egg, 2 ounces bread crumbs, lard to fry. To Make: Make exactly as directed for fish croquettes (No. 596) substituting lemon juice for parsley. Fish CROQUETTES—No. 596. 1 pint cold, picked fish, 1 tablespoon butter, pint milk, 3 rounded tablespoons flour, 1} teaspoons celery salt, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, } teaspoon pepper, 1 egg, lard to fry, 2 ounces bread crumbs, To Make : Be careful to remove all skin and bones from the fish before picking it. Put the milk in a double boiler ; thicken it with the butter and flour rubbed together until perfectly smooth ; add salt and pepper, and stir over the fire until the mixture thickens and leaves the sides of the pan. Take from the fire ; mix thoroughly with the fish, to which the parsley has been added. Spread on a shallow dish ; set on ice until firm. Form or mould into croquettes. Beat the egg until the white and yolk is mixed ; add to it one table- spoon of cold water and mix well. Dip the croquettes in the egg, roll in the bread crumbs, and fry in the boiling lard by directions (No. 583). RISSOLES, TO BE FILLED WITH BRAINS, SWEET-BREADS, OR ANY PATÉ FILLING–No. 597. Prepare a square of pastry as for rissoles (No. 684). Fill with any mixture mentioned above or any other preferred. Close and fry as directed (No. 583), or, if liked better, they may be baked in a quick oven. BOUCHEÈS—No. 598. 2 eggs, 1 teaspoon olive oil, 1 cup cold water, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 cup flour, fat to fry. 204 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. To Mix: Separate the eggs; beat the yolks until very light; add the oil, salt, and water; beat again; sift the flour; stir the eggs, etc., into it very gradually; beat well; stir in the well-beaten whites of the eggs and stand away in a cold place for at least two hours. Put a quantity of lard in a frying-kettle, heat to smoking point, and try with a piece of bread; if it browns directly, the lard is hot enough. Immerse the boucheè iron in the lard; let it stay long enough to become very hot; take it out of the lard; dip immediately into the batter, when covered with batter dip again into the boiling lard; fry a minute, remove from the mould and drain on soft paper. These bouchees or cases can be filled with any thing preferred, and are used as you would paper case, cups, or patés. FILLINGS FOR BOUCHEÈS OR Patés—No. 599. 1 pint cream sauce (No. 341), 1 sweet-bread, pint white meat of chicken, 6 button mushrooms, teaspoon salt, a dash of pepper.. To Mix: Prepare the sweet-bread as directed (No. 412), chop it and the chicken; add the mushrooms; stir all into the cream sauce; boil up once and fill the boucheès or patés. SWEET-BREAD FILLING–No. 600. 1 pint chopped sweet-breads, pint milk, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 tablespoon flour, dash of cayenne, 1 teaspoon salt. To Mix: Prepare the sweet-breads as directed (No. 412); chop them with a silver knife. Put the milk in a double boiler; rub the butter and flour together until perfectly smooth, and when the milk boils thicken it by directions No. 124. Stir in the sweet-breads, salt, and cayenne. Fill the boucheès, or patés, and serve imme- diately. CHICKEN FILLING–No. 601. $ pint chopped chicken, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 gill milk, yolk of 1 egg, 4 teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon corn starch, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, pepper and cayenne to taste. To Mix: Beat the egg until very light; add to it the corn starch, milk, and butter; mix well. Put in a double boiler; stir over the fire until the mixture begins to thicken; add chicken, salt, pepper, and cayenne; mix well. Put in the cases and serve immediately. A little wine may be added, if liked. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 205 OYSTER FILLING–No.602. 1 pint oysters, 1 tablespoon butter, * pint cream, 1 tablespoon flour, pepper and cayenne to taste, 1 teaspoon salt. To Mix: Drain and wash the oysters, put on the fire to cook with some of their own liquor; salt and pepper; when done take them out. Put on the fire one-half pint of oyster liquor strained ; when it boils add to it the cream, and thicken it with the butter and four rubbed together until smooth; stir over the fire until the mix- ture thickens. Drop in the oysters whole, unless very large. Heat thoroughly, stirring all the time. If necessary, add salt and pepper. Fill the cases, and serve immediately. MUSHROOM FILLING–No. 603. Open a can of mushrooms, being careful to preserve the water; cut them, but not into very small pieces. Put in a saucepan with the liquor and a little more water, salt and pepper to taste, and a tablespoon of butter. As soon as the mushrooms are hot mix a tablespoon of flour with three tablespoons of cream; stir in thor- oughly, and boil up once to cook the flour; add a tablespoon of wine; stir well, and fill the cases. Salads. Calf's Head Salad—No. 604. 1 calf's head, teaspoon pepper, 3 tablespoons chopped celery, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley. To Make : Clean and prepare a calf's head by directions No. 401; boil it until the meat falls from the bones. Take out the tongue and skin it; cut it, the meat, and the soft gristle into rather small pieces, being careful to remove all the little bones. Season with the salt and pepper ; add the parsley and celery. Set aside in a cold place until the water in which the head was boiled is reduced to a stock by boiling. Mix one pint of this stock with the seasoned meat, press it into a fancy mould, and put in a cold place or on ice to harden. When firm, turn out on a flat dish ; trim with lettuce, endive, or any pretty green salad. Serve with or without mayon- naise. Chicken or TURKEY SALAD—No. 605. 1 quart chicken or turkey, cut 3 tablespoons olive oil, into pieces, 1} pints chopped celery, 6 hard-boiled eggs, pint stock, 1 pint mayonnaise dressing, 1 teaspoon dry mustard, 1 teaspoon salt, very little cayenne, 1 teaspoon pepper, 2 tablespoons vinegar. To Make: Prepare the turkey or chicken as directed (No. 287); boil or steam without stuffing; when done drop into cold water for ten or fifteen minutes, according to the size of the fowl; take out of cold water, drain, remove the skin and fat, and cut into pieces of any size preferred. Formerly it was considered nice to cut the fowl and celery in small pieces; now it is usual to cut them into pieces about one-half inch long. This, of course, is a matter of taste. After cutting, put the fowl and celery in separate bowls and put them in a cold place or onice. Boil down the water in which the fowl was cooked to make the one-half pint of stock. (If the chicken is steamed the essence from it left in the steamer will jelly without further care.) Remove every particle of grease from the stock, then mix with it, INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 207 very gradually, the mashed yolks of eggs, salt, pepper, cayenne, and mustard; mix until perfectly smooth, then add, very slowly, the olive oil. When all the oil is used add in the same way the vinegar; mix all very thoroughly and stir through the fowl; return to the ice, where you should also keep the mayonnaise until the time for serv- ing. When ready to serve mix the fowl and celery, tossing them together with two forks (salad forks, if you have them) instead of stirring with a spoon; taste to see if properly seasoned; supply any deficiency, remembering that the mayonnaise is still to be added. Dress with the mayonnaise, garnish with any pretty green leaves or celery tips, and serve very cold. If you are particular about the appearance of the salad use only the white meat. CHICKEN OR TURKEY SALAD—No. 606. (As usually made.) 1 quart chicken or turkey, 1 pint chopped celery, salt and pepper to dust the meat, . 1 pint mayonnaise dressing. To Make: Prepare and cook the fowl as directed Drop in cold water for ten or fifteen minutes. Remove the skin and fat; cut into pieces any size preferred; dust with the salt and pepper, and put on the ice. Wash and cut the celery; dry and put this also on ice. Just before serving mix together as directed in chicken salad (No. 605), mixing through the salad one-half of the mayonnaise. Dress the salad with the remainder of the mayonnaise. Serve cold, garnished in any way liked. Left-over turkey or chicken may be used for salad instead of cooking fowls for the pur- pose. VEAL SALAD-No. 607. Veal salad is made exactly like chicken salad, using veal instead of fowls. Fresh BEEF TONGUE SALAD—No. 608. Boil a tongue by directions No. 410. When done drop into cold water ten minutes; drain, remove the skin, cut up, and make exactly like chicken salad. EGG SALAD—No. 609. Boil the eggs hard by directions No. 557. Cut them up with an equal quantity of chopped celery. Season and dress with may- onnaise as directed for chicken salad. Or the eggs may be cut up, dressed with the mayonnaise, and served in lettuce leaves. 208 INSTRUCTION IN Cooking. Fish SALAD—No. 609. For this purpose select white, firm fish. Boil as directed (No. 136). When cold take off the skin ; with a fork break the fish into flakes of any size wished. Dust with celery salt and white pepper. Pre- pare and dress exactly as directed for chicken salad, using one-half the quantity of celery as fish; or dress the fish with mayonnaise, and serve in crisp lettuce leaves. STURGEON SALAD—No. 610. Select and prepare the sturgeon as directed (No. 160). Drop in boiling salted water and cook until perfectly tender; take out of the boiling water; drain and drop in cold water for a few minutes. When perfectly cold cut up, rejecting all fat and gristle; dust with celery salt and pepper. Dress each pint of sturgeon with one-half pint of mayonnaise. Serve in crisp lettuce leaves. Shad Roe Salad—No. 611. Wash two shad roes, put them in a saucepan; cover with salted boiling water. Simmer twenty or twenty-five minutes, according to the size of the roes. When done strain them out of the boiling water, and set aside until perfectly cold; then remove the skin from the outside of the roes, and cut them into rather thin slices; arrange around a dish crisp lettuce leaves; dress the roe with mayonnaise (one-half pint to each pint of sliced roe). Pile the roe in the cen- tre, and serve. OYSTER CRAB SALAD—No. 612. If canned crabs are used simply drain; dry and dress each pint of crabs with one-half pint of mayonnaise, and serve in crisp let- tuce or endive leaves; but if the fresh crabs are used, boil them for five minutes in salted boiling water. Afterwards prepare, and serve as above directed. OYSTER SALAD—No. 613. Boil one pint of oysters in their own liquor until done; drain, dress with one-half pint of mayonnaise, and serve on crisp salad leaves. SALMON SALAD—No. 614. Free the salmon from all bones, and skin and dress each pint with one-half pint of mayonnaise. Serve on crisp salad leaves of any kind. For this cold or canned salmon may be used. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 209 SHRIMP SALAD—No. 615. Boil the shrimps as directed (No. 167); unless you use canned ones. In either case, drain and dry on a soft cloth ; cut into pieces with a silver knife ; mix with the mayonnaise one-half pint to one pint of shrimps, and serve on crisp lettuce leaves. HARD CRAB SALAD–No. 616. If not already boiled, boil and prepare the crabs by directions No. 175. Cut the meat into pieces ; dress each pint of crab with one-half pint of mayonnaise, and serve on crisp lettuce leaves, or mix with celery as in chicken salad (No. 606). LOBSTER SALAD—No. 617. Boil and prepare the lobster as directed (No. 170). Cut the meat into pieces with a silver knife; put it in a cold place until ready to serve. Dress each pint of lobster with half a pint of mayonnaise, mashing the coral, if there is any, fine and sprinkling it over the top. Serve in crisp lettuce leaves. SWEET-BREAD SALAD—No. 618. Prepare and boil the sweet-breads by directions No. 412. Cut in thin slices with a silver knife. Dress with one-half pint of may- onnaise to each pint of sweet-breads. Serve in crisp lettuce leaves with thin slices of lemon in the bottom of the dish, and, if liked, one slice of onion in the middle. The lettuce must be very cold and crisp. TerraPiN SALAD-No. 619. 1 pound terrapin, cut into pieces yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, of any size preferred, 5 teaspoon salt, 1 gill wine, pint mayonnaise, 1 head white, crisp lettuce. To Make: Rub the eggs perfectly smooth with a few drops of cold water; add to them the salt and wine; mix until smooth. Pour this over the terrapin and serve in lettuce leaves dressed with the mayonnaise. Of course, the terrapin must be cooked before being cut up. Left-over terrapin is generally used for this dish. CAULIFLOWER SALAD–No. 620. Boil the cauliflower as directed (No. 465). Throw it into cold water for ten minutes; drain well; pick the flowers apart; dry with a soft cloth; put in a salad dish and cover with mayonnaise. A pretty 14 210 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. dish may be made by putting the cauliflower in the middle of the dish and surrounding it with sliced raw tomatoes, both thoroughly chilled. Potato Salad—No. 621. 4 large Irish potatoes, 2 teaspoons celery salt, 10 tablespoons olive oil, 1 teaspoon pepper, 3 tablespoons vinegar, juice of 1 lemon, 4 tablespoons chopped parsley, 1 small onion, if liked. To Make: Boil the potatoes by directions No. 488, but do not steam them after boiling. When cold cut them into slices or squares; mix with them salt, pepper, parsley, and chopped onion; if you use it, strain over the lemon juice; mix the oil thoroughly through the potatoes, then mix in the vinegar, being careful not to get too much, because if very strong the quantity directed might make the salad too acid. Toss all well together with two forks, and serve in lettuce leaves, well chilled. The potatoes may be prepared and dressed with mayonnaise, if preferred. Another nice way to prepare the potatoes is to mash them while hot; then, when cold, cut into any form you like. They are probably more digestible in this way. Potato SALAD—No. 622. 1 pint potato cubes, * pint celery, 2 tablespoons olive oil, 1 teaspoon salt, 1-10 teaspoon pepper, 1 tablespoon vinegar, 1 gill cooked dressing (No. 371). To Make : Mix all the ingredients, except the celery, with the potatoes; stir lightly with a fork, and set aside in a cold place until time to serve; then mix in the celery and dressing, tossing lightly with a fork. Serve garnished with parsley. ASPARAGUS SALAD–No. 623. 1 bunch asparagus, pint French dressing (No. 372). To Make : Boil the asparagus by directions No. 461. Throw into cold water and leave fifteen minutes. Dry carefully with a soft cloth; put into a salad dish; pour over the French dressing; let stand about ten minutes before serving. Put a little shaved ice over the top of the salad just as it is served. CELERY SALAD—No. 624. 1 pint mayonnaise, 1 pint chopped celery, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon pepper. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 211 To Make : Cut the celery into pieces one-half inch long; dust with salt and pepper; mix with the mayonnaise; put it on a cold dish. Garnish with the white tips of celery, and serve very cold. Do not mix the celery and dressing until ready to serve. TOMATO AND LETTUCE SALAD—No. 625. 8 tomatoes, pint mayonnaise (No. 370), 1 head lettuce. To Make: Peel the tomatoes without scalding, and put them on ice until they are very cold; wash and dry the lettuce; when ready to serve, cut the tomatoes in halves; make little nests with two or three lettuce leaves each; arrange on the dish; place half a tomato in each nest, put mayonnaise on each tomato, and serve immediately. COLD Slaw—No. 626. 1 quart chopped cabbage, } pint slaw dressing (No. 371). To Make: Cut the cabbage very fine, after having washed it and removed all the coarse leaves; put on the ice until ready to serve; mix with the dressing and serve in a salad dish or in individual saucers. Fruit SALAD–No. 627. 2 heads of lettuce, 1 pound white grapes, 2 firm bananas, 2 acid apples, 2 sweet oranges, 12 English walnuts, pint mayonnaise. To Make: Wash the grapes carefully; cut each one in half and extract the seed; peel the bananas, apples, and oranges, removing every bit of skin and all seed. Cut all in small pieces. Crack the walnuts and break each kernel in half. Mix all these ingredients together. Select the crispest leaves of lettuce and arrange them upon a cold dish or on individual dishes. Pile in each lettuce leaf a large tablespoon of the mixture; cover well with dressing and serve at once. CHESTNUT SALAD-No. 628. 1 quart chestnuts, 1 teaspoon celery salt, 1 large or 2 small heads of 6 oranges, lettuce, 1-10 teaspoon white pepper. To Make: Shell the chestnuts; cover with boiling water and sim- mer until tender. Remove the skins, and dust with salt and pepper. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 213 LETTUCE—No. 633. Wash the lettuce carefully, without bruising; remove the coarse outer leaves; cut the roots, and let the leaves drop apart; examine each one to see that no grit, etc., is hid in it; choose the crispest leaves, those from the heart being best. Arrange in a dish, and stand on ice or in a cold place until ready to use. Serve with mayonnaise or French dressing. ASPIC JELLY—No. 634. 1 pound uncooked beef, 1 large tablespoon butter, a knuckle of veal, 1 onion, * pound bacon, #carrot, 1 slice turnip, 1 stalk of celery, 1 slice parsnip, 6 pepper corns, 2 cloves, 1 blade mace, a small piece of lemon rind, 2 quarts water, salt to taste, 3 whole allspice, 1 tablespoon Worcester sauce. To Make : Put the bacon in the bottom of a soup kettle; let it brown; then add the onion, cut in slices; stir until a nice brown; add the butter, and when hot, the beef. Cover the kettle and let it simmer until a thick brown glaze is formed in the bottom of the kettle; then add the veal and water, and simmer gently for two hours. Add the vegetables, Worcester sauce, spices, and lemon rind and simmer two hours longer. When done, it should be re- duced one-half. Strain and clarify as directed for bouillon (No. 115). Turn into a square jelly mould or a small mould of any kind. Salad in AspiC JELLY—No. 635. Put in the bottom of a very cold cup, or small mould, enough aspic jelly to cover one-third the cup; put on this (when the jelly is hard) a tablespoonful of any nice salad (chicken, turkey, or any preferred); pour over the liquid jelly until the mould is full; set aside to harden. When firm turn out, garnish, and serve. Birds, fish, tongue, etc., may be prepared in this way in moulds of suitable sizes. When not convenient to make the aspic jelly, a jelly may be made from gelatine and seasoned in imitation of aspic jelly. Cereals. CRACKED WHEAT—No. 636. 1 quart water, 6 tablespoons cracked wheat, 1 teaspoon salt. To Cook: Pick over the wheat carefully; put it in a double boiler large enough to hold the wheat and water while boiling; cover with the water at night and leave until one hour before breakfast; then put the boiler containing the wheat and water into the can belonging to the boiler; pour into the can the requisite quantity of water; add the salt to the wheat; stir it in well and boil for one hour. Serve with sugar, cream, and nutmeg, or, if preferred, salt and butter. BARLEY-No. 637. 1 quart boiling water, 5 tablespoons barley, 1 teaspoon salt. To Cook: Cook exactly by directions for cooking cracked wheat, except cook it three hours instead of one. OATMEAL—No. 638. 1 quart boiling water, 8 tablespoons oatmeal, 1 teaspoon salt. To Cook: Cook exactly like cracked wheat (No. 636). Serve in the same way. OATMEAL GRUEL—No. 639. gill oatmeal, 1 pint boiling water, } teaspoon salt. To Cook: Stir the boiling water, then sprinkle in the oatmeal, stirring all the time; add the salt; cover the stew-pan and set it back where it will cook gently for one hour; when done strain, and serve hot or cold, as preferred. BARLEY GRUEL—No. 640. gill barley meal, 1 pint boiling water, teaspoon salt. To Cook: Stir the water and siſt in the barley meal; stir well and add the salt; put the saucepan on the fire and boil slowly for two INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 215 hours. If barley is used instead of barley meal it must be carefully washed through several waters, boiled twice as long as the meal in twice the quantity of water, and strained before serving. If for a sick person be careful that no grains are left in the gruel. FARINA—No. 641. 2 gills farina, 1 quart boiling milk or water, 1 teaspoon salt. To Cook : Add the salt to the milk or water, then siſt in slowly the farina, stirring well. Boil thirty minutes, stirring frequently, or, if in a double boiler, boil one hour, without stirring. This may be sweetened and flavored, if desired. For moulded farina use double the quantity to the quart of liquid. When moulded it is served with sugar and cream. TAPIOCA—No. 642. pint tapioca, 1 quart milk or water, 1 teaspoon salt, 2 tablespoons sugar, grated nutmeg, 1 gill sherry wine, if liked. To Cook : Pick the tapioca, and wash it through several waters; put it to soak in one pint of cold water; when it has soaked two hours drain and stir into the milk or water. Put in a double boiler; fill the outer boiler two-thirds full of water, and set over a moderate fire; boil two hours, replenishing the water in the outer boiler, if necessary. When the tapioca is done stir in salt, sugar, nutmeg, and wine. Serve hot, or mould and serve with cream. This dish may be more highly seasoned, if preferred, but is usually prepared thus for invalids. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 217 PUFF PASTRY—No. 646. 1 quart of flour, 1 pound of butter and lard mixed, 1 teaspoon of salt, ice water enough to mix. (In hot weather it is best to use less shortening.) To Mix: Siſt salt and flour together; mix all the lard and one- fourth of the butter into the flour, exactly as directed for foundation pastry. Divide into two parts and put one-half on a cold marble slab, if you have one; if not, on a pastry board; put the other one- half of the pastry in a cold place, or, better, on the ice. Roll out the pastry on the slab; divide the butter left from mixing into four parts; divide one of the four parts into little bits, and spread on the sheet of pastry. Put the other three parts of butter on the ice, and bring with you the pastry left on the ice; roll this out in the same shape and thickness (about one-fourth of an inch) as the first sheet; place this on top of the sheet covered with bits of butter, after having dusted the butter with flour; then with a rolling-pin, strike across the pastry several times, leaving a space between each stroke as wide as the rolling-pin; then strike in the same way crosswise the little furrows formed by the rolling-pin. Roll out the pastry one-fourth of an inch thick; dot one-half of it with another one- fourth of the butter, divided as before into little bits; dust with flour; turn the other end of the pastry over the buttered part, then proceed as before, and so continue until all the butter is used. Put pastry in the shape desired, and bake in a very hot oven. If the weather is very hot, put the pastry on ice between the times of rolling, and leave it on the ice when finished until perfectly firm before putting it into shape to bake. Pastry should always be rolled from you; never to you. Patés and all fine pastry is made in this way. If you wish to make pies, roll the pastry thin; shape to the pie plates; bake about one-third done, and brush the bottom and sides of the crust with a beaten egg before putting in the filling. This prevents the bottom crust from being heavy and soggy. For puffs, roll the pastry as thin as possible to hold the preserves. For patés, roll the pastry about one-half of an inch thick; cut round shapes with a very sharp pastry cutter; cut out the centre of two of these round shapes; brush a solid one with cold water; place one with the centre cut out on top of the solid one, brushed with water; brush the top of this also with cold water, and place another shape with the centre cut out on top. Put in a hot pan, with the little 218 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. pieces you have cut out, and bake in an oven just as hot as possible, not to burn them. PUFFs—No. 647. Roll out a sheet of puff pastry (No. 646); cut into squares or round shapes of any size desired. Put jam or any preserves with- out too much syrup on one side of each piece of pastry, leaving a margin around the preserves. Double the side on which no pre- serves have been placed until its edges touch the edges of the mar- gin. Press together so as to prevent the juice of the preserves run- ning out. Bake in a hot oven, and serve cold. The squares of pastry are prettiest doubled so as to make a half square, but puffs may be made in any shape and size preferred. SWEETMEAT Patés—No. 6471. Make the patés or pastry shells by directions (No. 647, pastry). Fill with any sweetmeats preferred, and serve cold without the covers. A meringue may be piled on top of these patés, browned slightly, making a very pretty dish. GERMAN Almond Rings-No. 648. 1 pound blanched almonds, whites of 6 eggs, . 1 pound pulverized sugar, pound puff pastry (No. 663), To Make : Roll the pastry one quarter of an inch thick, and cut as for biscuit. From each one cut the centre, leaving a ring nearly an inch wide. Beat the whites very light; add the sugar; put into a double boiler, and stir over the fire until the meringue is quite thick. Slice the almonds very thin, and stir them into the meringue. Take from the fire. When cool put the meringue on the rings, using a silver knife for the purpose. Put into an oven, and brown. Serve cold. Grated cocoanut or conserves of ginger, pineapple, etc., may be substituted for the almond, the conserves to be sliced very thin. Short Cakes—No. 648). Roll out a sheet of foundation pastry (No. 645), cut into pieces four inches long and three inches wide, and bake in a hot oven. BOILED APPLE DUMPLINGS—No. 649. Make a potato pastry (No. 644) or a foundation pastry (No. 645), roll it about an eighth of an inch thick; peel, core, and slice thin acid apples (about one dozen to a quart of flour, made into pastry); 220 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. Cherry Roll-No. 654. Make exactly as directed for apple roll (No. 652), except omit the nutmeg and seed, but do not chop the cherries. BLACKBERRY Roll-No. 655. Pick, wash, and drain the blackberries, and make exactly as di- rected for apple roll (No. 652). HUCKLEBERRY ROLL-No. 656. Pick and wash the berries; mash them slightly. Prepare a sheet of pastry as directed for apple roll (No. 652); spread with the ber- ries, sprinkle with sugar, and roll and boil as before directed (No. 711). Serve with wine sauce (No. 731) or hard sauce (No. 730). In spreading the fruit on the pastry for rolls do not spread it quite to the end; leave a space of one or one and a half inches of the pastry bare; press this together securely. This is done for the same escape of the juice. SPREAD APPLE PIEs—No. 657. 1 pound “foundation pastry" 1 quart apples (No. 824), (No. 645), 2 tablespoons melted butter, 1 large grated nutmeg, sugar to taste. To Make: Roll the pastry one-eighth of an inch thick; turn the plate in which it is to be baked over the pastry and with a pastry cutter or a sharp knife cut the pastry three-quarters of an inch larger than the plate. Lift the plate, fit the pastry into it smoothly, and bake in a very hot oven; beat the sugar, melted butter, and nutmeg into the apples, which must be perfectly smooth and free of lumps. When all is well mixed taste to see if sweet enough. (It is impossi- ble to give the exact quantity of sugar because of the difference in the acidity of the apples.) Just before serving spread the apples thickly on the pastry and serve cold. This quantity of material will make three medium-sized pie plates. Old-FASHION APPLE PIE—No. 658. 14 pounds puff pastry (No. 646), large grated nutmeg, sugar to taste, 1 quart apples (No. 824), 2 tablespoons melted butter. To Make: Prepare the apples as above directed (No. 657); roll and cut the pastry as directed for spread apple pies (No. 657); fit it INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 221 smoothly in the plate; do not trim the edges, even if too large; put in a very hot oven and bake two-thirds done; beat a egg enough to mix the white and yolk; take the pastry from the oven and brush the bottom and sides with the egg while the pastry is hot. Use a small paint brush or mop for this purpose. Cut for the top crust of the pie a piece one and a quarter inches larger than the plate in which the pie is to be baked; put the apples in the plate, cover with the top crust, pressing the edges well over the sides of the plate; cut a small hole in the top crust; return to the oven and bake until done, but not very brown. These directions for baking pies will not be again repeated, but the same directions apply to all pies, puddings, and tarts which have a bottom crust. APPLE PIE—No. 659. 4 large, acid apples, 1 grated nutmeg or rind of 1 11 tablespoons butter, lemon, 14 gills sugar, 2 tablespoons water, 1 pound puff pastry (No. 646). To Make: Line a pie plate with puff pastry. Peel and slice the apples very thin; put them in the crust in layers, sprinkling each layer with sugar and seasoning and dotting it with little bits of but- ter. When the dish is full of apples cover with pastry, put into a hot oven, and bake for one-half or three-quarters of an hour, ac- cording to the size and thickness of the pie. APPLE MERINGUE PIE—No. 660. 1 pint stewed apples (No. 824), 6 ounces puff pastry (No. 646), grated nutmeg, 3 tablespoons pulverized sugar, whites of 3 eggs, sugar to taste. To Make: Prepare two pie plates with the pastry as directed (No. 646); beat the apples (which must be perfectly smooth), the sugar, nutmeg, and butter together until all are well mixed; put them in the plates of pastry. Put in a hot oven and bake until done, but not dry or scorched. Take them from the oven and let them cool while beating up the meringue; cover the pie with the meringue; return to the oven until a light, pretty brown. Serve cold. Instead of the meringue two strips of pastry about one-half inch wide may be put over the pies, one piece crossing the other, or the strips of pastry may be twisted or notched in any fancy way before putting across the pies. 22.2 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. Peach Pie-No. 661. 1 quart peaches, sliced and 1 pound foundation pastry stewed, (No. 646). To Make: Line three pie plates with the pastry as directed (No. 646). Chop or mash the peaches; taste to see if sweet enough. Put in the plates; cut six strips of pastry; put two over each pie, crossing each other. Set in a quick oven and bake until the pastry is done. Instead of putting the strips of pastry over the pies a meringue may be used as in apple pie (No. 660). Peach Pie-No. 662. Line three pie plates with foundation pastry (No. 645). Peel and slice the peaches thin. Put them in the pastry, sprinkling thickly with sugar between each layer of peaches. Cover with an upper crust, make an opening in the middle of it. Bake in a quick oven for thirty or forty minutes, according to the size and thickness of the pies. CHERRY PIE–No. 663. Line deep pie dishes with foundation pastry (No. 645); stone the cherries (morello are the best); mix with the mhalf as much sugar as cherries; put into the pastry; cover with an upper crust rolled thin; press the edges tightly together so the juice will not escape; make an opening in the top; put in a quick oven and bake thirty or forty minutes. For juicy fruits, such as cherries, etc., use earthen- ware pie plates; perforated ones will not answer. Cherry Tarts—No. 664. Line saucers or small tins with foundation pastry (No. 645); fill with stewed cherries, sweetened to taste; either cover with a crust or put little strips of pastry crosswise over the top. Bake in a quick oven until done. The pastry may be baked in little tins, making plain shells, and filled, after baking, with stewed cherries. CRANBERRY Tarts—No. 665. Bake the pastry in little tin shapes, making plain shells; fill with stewed cranberries, and serve at once. GOOSEBERRY Pies—No. 666. Stew the gooseberries by directions No. 837; line two plates with foundation pastry (No. 645); fill with the gooseberries; cover with an upper crust; make a small opening in the top, and bake in a quick oven until the pastry is done (about thirty minutes). 224 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. STRAWBERRY PIE—No. 678. Strawberry pies are made by directions for blackberry pies (No. 668), except doubling the quantity of sugar. STRAWBERRY Tarts—No. 679. Make as directed for blackberry tart (No. 670), except double the quantity of sugar. STRAWBERRY SHORT-CAKE–No. 680. Roll a sheet of foundation pastry (No. 645) three-quarters of an inch thick. Turn upside down on it a plate; with a pastry cutter or sharp knife, cut around the plate. Do this until you have as many short-cakes as you wish. Bake in a hot oven. Cap the strawberries, mash them slightly, and sprinkle lightly with sugar. When the short-cakes are done, split each one; butter slightly; put between the two slices a thick layer of strawberries; sprinkle with pow- dered sugar. Sprinkle powdered sugar over the top, and serve hot. The pastry for short-cake may be rolled thinner, and the berries put between two of the cakes instead of splitting the pastry as just directed. STRAWBERRY SHORT-CAKE–No. 681. pint flour, 1 gill sugar, 1 teaspoon baking powder, 1 heaped tablespoon butter, 1 teaspoon salt, 3 tablespoons milk, 1 egg. To Make: Beat the butter to a cream; gradually beat in the sugar, add the unbeaten egg, and give the whole a good beating. Beat in the milk; sift the baking powder and flour together, add the salt, and beat the flour, etc., into the mixture. Bake in two well-buttered deep plates or jelly cake tins. They will require about twenty min- utes to bake. Mash the strawberries slightly, after capping them; mix them with the sugar and spread between and on top the cakes. Serve hot or cold, with or without whipped cream. Mince Pie-No. 682. Line pie plates with puff pastry (No. 646). Fill with mince-meat, cover with a crust, and bake in a quick oven. Serve hot. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 225 MINCE-MEAT—No. 683. 1 pound chopped beef, 2 pounds seeded raisins, 3 pound chopped beef suet, 2 pounds cleaned currants, 1 pound citron, 1 grated nutmeg, 1 pound brown sugar, juice and rind of 2 oranges, 2 pounds chopped apples, juice and rind of 1 lemon, 1 quart good brandy, 1 teaspoon ground cloves, 1 pint wine, 2 teaspoons ground mace, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon. To Make: Cook the meat, cool, and chop it fine. Chop the suet. Slice the citron into small pieces. Mix all the dry ingredients to- gether. When perfectly mixed add the grated rind and juice of the oranges and lemon. Mix again and pack in a stone jar; pour over the brandy and wine; cover closely and put in a cold place. This will keep all the winter. When ready to use take out the quantity needed; thin with cider or wine; put in the lined pie plates; cover with the crust; make a small opening in the top; press the crust well together around the edges of the plate and bake. MINCE-MEAT RISSOLES—No. 684. Roll out puff pastry (No. 646) into a sheet one-eighth of an inch thick; cut it in squares of four and a half inches; cut off the corners one-quarter of an inch; put in the middle of the square one table- spoon of mince-meat, not thined; draw the pastry up around the mince-meat, pressing it together with the fingers, about one-half inch from the top, until a bag is formed; press the top out in little Autes. The rissole to represent a bag with a ruffle at the top. Put on ice until perfectly firm, then fry in boiling fat, lifting them in and out carefully with a cake-turner. Serve hot. These are delicate and easily broken. 15 Puddings. LEMON Pudding—No. 685. 6 eggs, 4 large or 6 small apples, 3 lemons, pound butter, 1 pound sugar. To Make : Grate the lemons, being careful not to get any of the bitter white rind. Squeeze the juice and strain it. Beat the eggs without separating; do not beat them very light. Add the sugar and the butter, melted; stir in until thoroughly mixed; then add the grated peel and juice of the lemons. Last, peel and grate the apples, . and stir them in. Bake in a crust of puff pastry made by directions No. 646. Do not forget to partially bake, and glaze with egg the bottom and sides of crust before putting in the filling. This quan- tity will fill three medium-size pie plates. LEMON PUDDING–No. 686. 9 eggs, 14 pounds sugar, 1 pound butter, * pint milk, 3 lemons, 1 gill meal, pound pulverized sugar, juice of 1 lemon. To Make : Separate the eggs, and set the whites on ice until needed. Beat the yolks until well mixed; add the sugar, rind of the lemon, and the melted butter, stirring in each ingredient as it is put in ; then add milk and the juice of the three lemons ; lastly, sift in the meal. Give the whole a good stirring. Line four medium- sized pie plates with puff pastry (No. 646). Bake and glaze as above directed. Fill with the mixture, and bake in a hot oven, browning very slightly. While the puddings are baking, prepare the meringue as follows: Beat up the whites of the eggs very stiff; siſt in the pulverized sugar; pour in the juice of the lemon; stir well and pile on the puddings. Return the puddings to the oven; bake until the meringue is a pretty, light brown. Serve cold. CHEAP LEMON PUDDING–No. 687. 2 lemons, 1 quart water, sugar, 5 tablespoons corn starch, or flour, 1 tablespoon butter. 2 eggs, INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 227 To Make: Peel the lemons very thin and boil the peeling in the water; rub the butter and corn starch, or flour, together until per- fectly smooth; take the lemon peel out of the water when it has boiled long enough to impart to it its flavor; thicken the boiling water with the butter and corn starch; add sugar to taste; stir over the fire until the mixture thickens; take from the fire; stir in the well-beaten eggs, and the lemon juice; line three medium-sized pie plates with founda- tion pastry (No. 645), pour in the mixture, and bake in a hot oven. LEMON CHEESE CAKES (ENGLISH)—No. 688. 1 pound butter, juice and grated rind of 3 6 eggs, lemons, 1 pound sugar, I pound shelled almonds. To Make : Grate the lemons; strain the juice; beat the eggs slightly, without separating; stir into them all the ingredients, except the almonds. Put into a saucepan, and stir over the fire until the mixture begins to thicken; when the consistency of honey, take it off. Pound or chop the almonds very fine; stir them into the mixture. Line little patty pans with puff pastry (No. 646); fill two-thirds full with the mixture, and bake in a hot oven. The direction to bake the pastry half-done and glaze it with beaten egg before putting in the filling of puddings or pies will not be again repeated. It is always necessary to prevent the bottom crust from being heavy and soggy. CHEESE CAKES—No. 689. Yolks of 9 eggs, juice and grated rind of 3 lemons, whites of 5 eggs, 1 pound butter, pound sugar. To Make : Cream the butter and sugar together. Beat the eggs, without separating, until very light. Beat the eggs, rind, and juice of the lemons into the butter and sugar. Give the whole a good beating, and bake in little fluted tins, lined with puff pastry (No. 646). Irish Potato PUDDING—No. 690. 1 pound potatoes, 1 pound sugar, 1 pound butter, 6 eggs, 11 teaspoons powdered mace, teaspoon salt. 10 Make: Mash and beat the potatoes very smooth and light; beat the butter into them while warm; separate the eggs and beat light; 228 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. beat the sugar into the yolks; add the whites, and mix eggs and sugar with the potatoes; siſt in the salt and mace; beat up once more before filling the pie plates, which have been lined with puff pastry (No. 646). This quantity makes three medium-sized puddings. Sweet Potato PUDDING–No. 691. 1 pound boiled sweet potatoes, 5 eggs, pound butter, grated rind of 2 lemons, 1 gill sherry wine. To Make: Pass the potatoes through a colander; beat the butter into them while warm; separate the eggs and beat the sugar into the yolks; when light add the well-beaten whites, rind and juice of the lemon and the wine; bake in a rather deep dish, without a bottom crust, but with a border of puff pastry (No. 646) around the edges of the dish; siſt sugar over the top, and serve cold; if preferred, it may be baked without any crust. CocoaNUT PUDDING—No. 692. 1 cocoanut, 2 ounces pulverized sugar, 1 gill sherry wine, 6 eggs, it is grated in sugar, 1 teaspoon powdered mace, juice of 1 lemon. To Make : Peel and grate the cocoanut; pour over it the wine; beat the yolks of the eggs with the sugar until very light; add the mace. Pour into three medium-sized pie plates, lined with puff pastry (No. 646); bake until done, but not brown. Take from the oven when done, and cover with a meringue made thus: Beat the whites of the eggs with the pulverized sugar until light and stiff; season with the lemon juice; put on the puddings; return them to the oven until a light brown. Serve cold. CocoaNUT PUDDINGS—No. 693. Yolks of 7 eggs, pound butter, whites of 4 eggs, 1 pound sugar, 1 cocoanut, 1 gill sherry. To Make : Peel and grate the cocoanut. Beat the yolks with the sugar; add the cocoanut, then the butter, melted. Give the whole a good beating; add the wine and well-beaten whites. Bake in three medium-sized pie plates, lined with puff pastry (No. 646). INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 229 Apple Pudding—No. 694. 1 pound steamed apples, } pound butter, pound sugar, 8 eggs, grated rind and juice of 2 oranges and 1 lemon. To Make : Beat the eggs very light, without separating; beat into them all the other ingredients, melting the butter and straining the orange and lemon juice. Mix thoroughly and beat up just before putting into the pie plates. Line the plates with puff pastry (No. 646). This quantity will make three puddings. TRANSPARENT PUDDING–No. 695. 8 eggs, * pound butter, 4 of a nutmeg, 1 pound sugar. To Make : Beat the eggs until light; beat into them all the other ingredients, grating the nutmeg. Put in a saucepan over the fire, and stir until the mixture thickens. Pour into a bowl to cool. When cold, bake in two pie plates lined with puff pastry (No. 646). ORANGE PUDDING–No. 696. 6 eggs, pound sugar, 3 large or 4 small oranges, pound butter, 1 gill sherry wine. To Make: Grate the yellow rind from the oranges, remove the thick white skin, and press juice and pulp through a strainer. Beat the eggs very light without separating them. Cream the sugar and butter together, and beat into them the eggs, rind, pulp, and juice of the oranges. Bake in a buttered dish with a broad edge, around which lay a border of puff pastry (No. 646). Bake one-half hour. Serve cold, with sugar on top. BIRD'S-NEST PUDDING—No. 697. 7 large, green apples, yolks of 6 eggs, grated rind of 2 lemons, 1 quart milk, pound sugar, 2 gills tapioca, & teaspoon salt, 1 pint water. To Make: Wash the tapioca and put it in the water to soak for two hours; drain and put into a saucepan with the milk; boil until the tapioca is soft and clear; when cool add to it the well-beaten yolks into which you have beaten one-half of the sugar. Peel and core the apples; put them in the bottom of a buttered baking-dish; 230 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. fill the hollows from which the cores were taken with the remainder of the sugar and the grated lemon peel, mixed. Pour over the tapioca, etc., and bake in a moderate oven for one hour. Have the pudding a nice, light brown. Serve cold, with or without whipped cream. Rice PUDDING–No. 698. 4 ounces rice, 1 teaspoon salt, 4 ounces butter, 1 quart milk, 6 ounces sugar, yolks of 8 eggs, grated rind of 1 lemon, or 2 teaspoons extract vanilla. To Make : Pick and wash the rice; boil it in the milk until soft; stir in the butter while hot. Beat the eggs until very light; add the sugar and seasoning to them. When the rice is cold, beat it and the eggs together until thoroughly mixed. Bake in a buttered pudding dish until firm and a nice brown on top. Serve hot or cold. MOLASSES PUDDING–No. 699. 1 pint molasses, 1 teaspoon salt, 1) pints unsifted flour, 1 teaspoon mace, pint sweet milk, 2 teaspoons ginger, 3 pint sugar (brown is best), 2 teaspoons baking powder, 2 large tablespoons butter and lard, mixed. To Make: Stir the molasses, melted butter, and lard and milk to- gether; sift in the flour very gradually, stirring constantly; add the spices and salt and give the whole a good beating. Sift and beat in the baking powder. Bake in a buttered pan or boil in a buttered pudding mould. Fruit may be added to this pudding, if desired. If the pudding is boiled substitute chopped suet for the butter and lard. Serve with molasses sauce or, if fruit is used, wine sauce (No. 733). Molasses Sauce. 1 pint molasses, 2 gills water, 2 tablespoons butter, } grated nutmeg, 1 teaspoon ground ginger. Mix and stew all together; tie ginger in a muslin bag and take out before serving. INSTRUCTION IN Cooking. 231 COTTAGE PUDDING—No. 700. 14 pints flour, 2 tablespoons butter, } pint sugar, 2 eggs, * pint milk, juice and grated rind of 1 lemon, 1 heaped teaspoon baking powder. To Make: Separate the eggs and beat until very light; beat into the yolks the sugar, four, lemon juice and peel; give the whole a good beating, and add very gradually the milk; bake in a buttered pudding dish, and serve hot with lemon sauce (No. 736) or wine sauce (No. 731). CITRON PUDDING—No. 701. 4 eggs, 1 pound sugar, pound citron, 1 pound butter. To Make: Separate the eggs and beat light; cream the butter and sugar together; add the eggs and beat all until light. Line two pie plates with puff pastry (No 646); put in alternate layers of citron and egg mixture until the plate is full; bake in a moderate oven until done and a nice brown. Serve hot or cold, as preferred. ORANGE Pudding—No. 702. pound macaroons, 1 pint milk, 4 eggs, 2 gills sugar, rind and juice of 2 oranges. To Make: Put the macaroons in the milk and soak until soft; beat the eggs without separating; beat the sugar into them; add the milk and macaroons; add orange juice and rind; beat again until perſectly smooth and light; put in a buttered pudding dish and bake until a nice brown. Serve cold. MERINGUE PUDDING–No. 703. 1 pint bread crumbs, 1 quart milk, pint sugar, 5 eggs, grated rind of 1 lemon, 1 teaspoon salt, pulverized sugar, 2 tablespoons butter, juice of 1 lemon, 3 tablespoons acid jelly. To Make : Beat the yolks until very light; beat into them the sugar and bread crumbs, adding the milk gradually. Put in the seasoning, and give the whole a good beating. Put into a buttered pudding dish, and bake until done. Take out of the oven; spread 232 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. over currant or any other acid jelly or preserves. Beat the whites with the pulverized sugar and lemon juice; pile on top; return to the oven until the meringue is a nice brown. Serve cold. Instead of adding the meringue, this pudding is very nice served hot with a wine sauce (No. 732). DANDY PUDDING—No. 704. 1 quart milk, 4 eggs, 1 cup sugar, 2 tablespoons corn starch, 1 teaspoon vanilla. To Make : Put the milk on to boil; moisten the corn starch with a little cold milk and add to the boiling milk. Stir and boil over the fire until it begins to thicken. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the sugar together until light, and add to the boiling milk. Take from the fire; add the flavoring, and pour into a baking-dish. Beat the whites of the eggs to a very stiff froth with the two tablespoons of powdered sugar; pile on top of the pudding. Put it in the oven until a light brown. Serve very cold. CARAMEL PUDDING–No. 705. 6 eggs, 1 quart milk, 5 tablespoons brown sugar, vanilla to flavor, 2 tablespoons granulated sugar. To Make : Separate the eggs and beat very light; beat the granu- lated sugar into the yolks. Put the brown sugar into a frying-pan, and stir over the fire until it browns, smokes, and bubbles; stir it immediately into the milk which is boiling in a double boiler; add this very gradually to the yolks of the eggs (straining, if the cara- mel should have formed into lumps); stir well, and season to taste with extract of vanilla. Bake in a pudding dish or custard cups which have been rinsed in cold water. Set in a pan with water, and bake exactly as directed for baked custard (No. 852). When done cool and put on ice until thoroughly chilled; heap whipped cream on top, and serve. CHOCOLATE PUDDING—No. 706. 3 ounces Baker's chocolate, 1 quart milk, * pint sugar, yolks of 6 eggs, 3 heaping tablespoons corn starch, 1-10 teaspoon salt. To Make: Take from the quart of milk three tablespoons in INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 233 which to dissolve the corn starch; put the remainder of the milk in a double boiler with the chocolate cracked in small pieces; set on the fire until the chocolate is melted and the milk boils. If the chocolate is not perfectly smooth, strain and return it to the double boiler. Thicken with the corn starch, which has been mixed into a perfectly smooth paste with the milk. Beat the eggs and sugar together until very light; beat these into the milk and chocolate; add the salt, and stir until the mixture thickens. When cool season with vanilla; put into a mould; place on ice until firm; turn out and serve with a plenty of whipped cream around it. “C. C.” PUDDING–No. 707. 14 pounds sponge cake batter, extract bitter almond to taste, 4 tablespoons sugar, 4 eggs, 1 quart milk, 1-10 teaspoon salt. - To Make: Mix the sponge cake by directions No. 749; butter a flat bottom pudding dish and bake the cake in this; when done cut in slices, butter each slice, and put in a larger pudding dish than the one in which the cake was baked; this dish must be buttered also. With the milk and eggs make a custard (No. 851); season with the bitter almond, being careful not to get too much; pour the cus- tard over the cake, and bake one-half hour. The cake will swell and fill the dish. Serve hot or cold, as preferred. Light Cake Pudding—No. 708. 1 pound flour, 1 pound sugar, 5 eggs, * pound butter, 1 full teaspoon baking powder, 1 pint milk. To Make : Separate the eggs and beat light; beat into the yolks the sugar, milk, butter, melted, and the flour; give the whole a good beating, then siſt in the baking powder; add the whites, beaten to a stiff froth; beat in lightly. Butter a rather shallow pan, put in the cake, and bake in a moderate oven until done. Serve hot with the following sauce: Sauce. 3 pound butter, 1 gill water, pound sugar, yolk of 1 egg, 2 gills sherry, juice of 1 lemon. der 234 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. To Make : Beat the butter and sugar together till creamy; add the egg and beat again; stir in the water and lemon juice. Put in a saucepan over the fire, and stir until thoroughly heated. Add the wine and serve immediately. A DELICATE BOILED PUDDING–No. 709. 1 pint flour, 1 quart milk, 1 tablespoon butter, 4 eggs. To Make : Separate the eggs and beat until very light. Sift and beat in the flour; melt the butter, and add it with the milk. Give the whole a good beating. Put into a buttered pudding mould, and boil two hours. Serve hot with the above sauce (No. 708). BAKED Plum PUDDING–No. 710. 1 pound bread crumbs, 8 eggs, } pound chopped suet, Inutmeg, 1 pound sugar, 1 gill wine or brandy, 1 pound cleaned currants, 1 pint milk, 1 pound seeded raisins. To Make : Separate the eggs and beat until very light; beat into the yolks the sugar, bread crumbs, and suet, adding the milk as necessary to soften. Give the whole a good beating. Flour the fruit, and beat it in; add the grated nutmeg and the wine or brandy. Butter a large baking-dish or cake mould and bake in a moderate oven; not too dry. Serve hot with wine sauce (No. 731). BOILED Plum PUDDING–No. 711. 1 pound bread crumbs, 1 gill brandy, 1 pound flour, 1 gill wine, pound chopped suet, 1 teaspoon powdered nutmeg, 1 pound sugar, 1 teaspoon powdered cinnamon, 1 dozen eggs, 1 teaspoon salt, 2 pounds seeded raisins, 2 teaspoons powdered allspice, 2 pounds cleaned currants, 1 teaspoon powdered cloves, pound citron, grated rind and juice of 2 1 pound shelled almonds, oranges and 2 lemons. 1 teaspoon powdered mace. To Make : Separate the eggs and beat very light. Set the whites in a cold place until needed. Beat into the yolks the sugar and spices, which must be carefully siſted; four the fruit and almonds (the almonds must be cut in half and split). Mix thor. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 235 oughly together all the dry ingredients; add the whites to the yolks and sugar; beat in lightly. Pour the eggs over the dry ingredients; add orange and lemon peel and juice, wine and brandy. Work with the hands until perfectly well mixed; if very stiff, add one pint of cider, or milk, if cider is not obtainable. Butter padding moulds; fill with the mixture, within about two inches of the top; fasten the cover securely, and put into boiling water. Boil one hour and a quarter per pound. When done, the pudding should be perfectly firm and dry on top. Serve hot with wine sauce (No. 733) or brandy sauce (No. 737). If not convenient to boil all of the pudding at one time, pack it in a jar; cover with brandy or alcohol. Cover the jar closely, and keep in a cool place until needed. After boiling, the pudding may be wrapped in parafine paper, and kept in tin boxes. If you have no pudding mould, wring a stout cloth out of boiling water, spread it quickly on a board, and sift flour all over it. Put the pudding in the middle of the cloth, gather up the edges, being very careful about the corners. Tie securely, leaving a plenty of room for the pudding to swell; tie again near the edges of the cloth. Have a pot of boiling water ready; put in the pudding; turn it around in the water three or four times to cook the outside. Boil and serve by above directions. Mrs. Sheldon's Plum PUDDING–No. 712. 1 pound grated bread crumbs, 2 pounds seeded raisins, 1 pound butter, 1 pound currants, 1 pound sugar, 4 ounces flour, 1 pint milk, 2 ounces chopped suet, 2 teaspoons powdered mace, 10 eggs, 1 teaspoon salt. To Make : Separate the eggs and beat until very light. Set the whites in a cold place until ready to use. Beat the sugar into the yolks, and add the sifted mace; beat until very light before adding the whites. Rub the flour, butter, bread crumbs, and suet together; flour the fruit, and add it to the bread crumbs, etc. When all are well mixed pour on the eggs, and work all together until thoroughly mixed; last, add gradually the milk; work again; put into a but- tered pudding mould or a floured cloth, and boil five hours. Boil by directions No. 711. 236 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. Light BREAD Plum PUDDING–No. 713. 1 pound loaf bread dough, pint chopped suet, 1pints cleaned currants, 3 eggs, 2 pints seeded raisins, 1 pint sugar. To Make : Use very light dough. Flour the fruit, and work it and the suet into the dough; beat the eggs, without separating, with the sugar; beat until very light; add to the dough, etc.; work until well mixed; put in a buttered pudding mould or a floured cloth, and boil as directed (No. 711). This must be served with a very rich sauce (No. 737). BREAD PUDDING–No. 714. 1 pound bread crumbs, 1 quart boiling milk, yolks of 4 eggs, 1 grated nutmeg, 2 tablespoons wine. To Make: Pour the milk over the bread crumbs; cover closely and let stand one hour. Beat the yolks very light and add to the bread crumbs, then add the nutmeg and wine. Mix all well together and boil for one hour and a half. Serve hot with wine sauce (No. 732). BLACKBERRY' Pudding-No. 715. 1 quart ripe blackberries, 1 pint flour, 1 pound sugar, grated rind of 1 lemon, 1 quart milk, yolks of 4 eggs, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon butter. To Make: Beat the yolks until very light; beat into them the sugar, flour, blackberries, lemon peel, salt, adding the milk grad- ually to soften the mixture. Give the whole a good beating. Put in a buttered pudding mould and boil three hours. Serve hot with wine sauce (No. 733). Snow PuddiNG–No. 616. Cold water enough to 1-10 teaspoon salt, cover gelatine, 1 pint boiling water, 1 ounce gelatine, 6 eggs, juice of 2 lemons, 6 even tablespoons of sugar, 1 gill sherry, 1 quart milk, 11 teaspoon vanilla extract. To Make : Soak the gelatine one-half hour in the cold water; then pour on it the boiling water, and stir until dissolved. Strain INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 237 in the lemon juice and wine; sweeten and set aside to cool. Beat the whites of the eggs very stiff, and when the jelly is nearly set beat them into it until they are thoroughly mixed and the mixture is white all through. Pour in a fancy mould, which has been rinsed in cold water, and put in a cold place or on ice to harden. With the yolks of the eggs and the milk make a custard by direc- tions No. 851; sweeten to taste. When cool, season with two teaspoons of Sauer's extract vanilla. Keep on ice till ready to serve. Turn out the pudding, pour the custard around, and serve very cold. Snow Pudding—No. 717. 1 pint boiling water, 2 heaped tablespoons corn cold water enough to mix the starch or flour, corn starch or flour in a smooth whites of 4 eggs, paste, 1} teaspoons Sauer's extract a pinch of salt, vanilla. 2 gills sugar. To Make: Mix the flour into a smooth paste with the cold water; thicken the boiling water with the flour by directions for thickening; stir in the salt and sugar; continue to stir over the fire until very thick. Beat the whites to a stiff froth; whip them into the flour and water until all is perfectly mixed. Season with vanilla and pour into a fancy mould which has been rinsed in cold water. Set in a cold place to harden. Make a custard with the yolks of the four eggs, one quart of milk, and sugar enough to sweeten. Season to taste with extract of bitter almond, being careful not to get too much. set all in a cold place or on ice. When very cold turn out the pud- ding, pour the custard around, and serve. Cold Tapioca PUDDING–No. 718. 1 cup tapioca, 1 quart milk, milk to cover the tapioca, whites of 3 eggs, 1 cup sugar, 1 teaspoon salt, 2 teaspoons extract vanilla. * To Make: Wash the tapioca through several waters, picking it over; then cover with the cold milk and soak for four hours; at the end of that time put the tapioca, quart of milk, salt and sugar, all well mixed, in a double boiler; let it come to a boil, stirring fre- quently; take from the fire and cool; beat the whites of the eggs to 238 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. a stift froth; add them and the vanilla to the tapioca; beat well until thoroughly mixed; rinse a fancy mould with cold water and put in it. the pudding; set on ice or in a cold place, and when firm serve with whipped cream. CREAM ORANGE PUDDING–No. 719. Yolks of 3 eggs, 1 tablespoon corn starch, 1 pint sweet milk, 1 cup sugar, 5 oranges, whites of the eggs, 2 tablespoons pulverized sugar. To Make : Take the yolks of the eggs, the corn starch, sugar, and milk and make a custard as directed (No. 851). Peel and slice the oranges, removing all seed; put the slices into a pudding dish, with sugar sprinkled over each layer. When the custard is done, pour it while hot over the oranges. Make a meringue of the whites of the eggs and the pulverized sugar; add to the meringue two tablespoons grated cocoanut. Spread the meringue on the top of the dish; put in a moderate oven until the meringue is a nice brown. Serve very cold. NESSELRODE PUDDING–No. 720. 1 tablespoon vanilla extract, 1 pint almonds, 1 pint chestnuts, 1 pint cream, 1 pint sugar, yolks of 6 eggs, 1 pint boiling water, 2 pounds conserves, 4 tablespoons sherry. To Make : Blanch the chestnuts; boil them until tender, and press them through a colander. Shell, blanch, and pound the almonds; cut the conserves into small pieces (selecting the kinds you prefer). Put the water and sugar on to boil, and let it boil fifteen minutes. Beat the yolks of the eggs until very light; add them very slowly and gradually to the boiling syrup, stirring con- stantly until it boils. Take it off, and beat with an egg-whip until cold. Add the conserves, cream, almonds, chestnuts, vanilla, and sherry. Mix all well together, and freeze. When frozen, pack in a mould by directions No. 891. Bury in a tub of ice; cover the tub with a piece of carpet, and leave for several hours. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 239 Snow Blanc MANGE PUDDING–No. 721. 3 pints milk, 6 ounces sugar, 2 gills sherry, whites of 4 eggs, 4 ounces grated cocoanut, 1 box gelatine. To Make : Dissolve the gelatine in one pint of the milk by direc- tions No. 865; sweeten the quart of milk; add the wine and cocoa- nut; strain in the gelatine and milk; beat until the mixture begins to thicken; then stir in the whites of the eggs beaten to a very stiff froth. Put in a mould; set in a cold place. When firm turn out, surround with whipped cream, seasoned or not, as preferred, and serve. Fritters and Pancakes. PANCAKES—No. 722. 1 pint flour, 9 eggs, 1 pint milk, | teaspoon salt. To Make: Beat the eggs without separating until very light; sift and beat in the flour; add the salt and beat again; add the milk very gradually until all is used. Put a frying-pan where it will heat; put in a half tablespoon of lard and run it quickly over the bottom of the frying-pan. Let it get as hot as possible without burning; pour in a large ladleful of batter (enough to cover the bottom of the pan with a thin sheet). When done on one side turn with two cake- turners. Be careful not to tear the pancake. Roll or fold when done, and put on a hot dish to keep warm until enough are baked to send to the table. They may be kept hot by putting the dish containing them in the oven. Serve with wine sauce (No. 731) or sugar and wine. PANCAKES—No. 723. 1 pint milk, 4 yolks and 2 whites of eggs, enough flour to make a smooth, 1 teaspoon salt, light batter, 1 gill brandy. To Make: Beat the yolks until very light; siſt and beat into them the four, being careful not to get too much. Beat until very light and smooth; add the milk very gradually, beating as you add it; beat in the salt and brandy. Bake in a small frying-pan by direc- tions No. 722, being very careful not to get too much grease in the frying-pan. Serve with sugar, wine, and nutmeg. Pancakes may be served with syrup instead of wine, if liked. QUIRE OF PAPER PANCAKES—No. 724. 1 pound flour, pound melted butter, 8 eggs, * pound sugar, 2 gills wine. To Make : Separate the eggs and beat very light. Put the whites in a cold place until needed; siſt the flour twice; beat the sugar into the yolks; add the wine, and beat again; beat in the Sweet Sauces. How to Make CARAMEL-No. 728. Put into a small iron frying-pan granulated sugar. Place over a slow fire, and stir until it bubbles and smokes; stir into the dish to be seasoned while melted. This is for seasoning sweets. Caramel for soups, stews, etc., is found elsewhere (No. 123). CREAM SAUCE—No. 729. 1 pint thick, sweet cream, 2 tablespoons sherry or 2 table- 2 tablespoons powdered sugar, spoons extract vanilla, grated nutmeg. To Make: Mix all well together, and serve very cold. Hard Sauce—No. 730. 1 cup butter, . 2 teaspoons vanilla, 2 cups powdered sugar, white of 1 egg. To Make: Beat the butter and sugar to a cream; when very light add the white of the egg and the vanilla and beat again until very light. Heap on a dish and keep on ice until ready to serve. WINE SAUCE—No. 731. * pint wine, 1 gill water, 1 pint sugar, 2 eggs, 4 ounces butter, grated nutmeg To Make: Beat the sugar and butter together into a cream. Put in a double boiler and set over a moderate fire. When it simmers, add the well-beaten yolks of the eggs, the water, and the nutmeg. Stir until the mixture thickens; then add the whites beaten to a stiff froth and the wine. Mix well, and serve very hot. WINE SAUCE—No. 732. 1 cup butter, 1 cup wine, 2 cups sugar, * grated nutmeg. To Make: Beat the sugar and butter together until perfectly smooth. Put into a double boiler, and stir over the fire until very hot; add the nutmeg and wine. Mix all well together, and serve at once. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 243 WINE Sauce—No. 733. 2 ounces butter, 2 teaspoons flour, pint boiling water, 1 gill wine or brandy, 1 pound sugar, 1 grated nutmeg To Make : Mix the flour and butter until perfectly smooth; pour on it, very gradually, the boiling water; return to the fire, and let it boil a few minutes, stirring frequently. Stir in the sugar. When well mixed, add the wine and nutmeg. Serve hot. PUDDING SAUCE-No. 734. 1 egg, 1 cup sugar, 4 tablespoons wine or 2 table. 1 tablespoon butter, spoons brandy, grated nutmeg. To Make: Beat the egg and sugar until very light; melt the butter in a saucepan; stir into it the beaten egg and sugar and the nutmeg. Stir over the fire until the mixture begins to thicken and is very hot, then stir in the wine or brandy. If the brandy is used add a little boiling water. Rum SAUCE-No. 735. * cup butter, . whites of 2 eggs, 1 cup sugar, 1 gill boiling water, 1 gill rum. To Make: Beat the butter and sugar to a cream and until it is white; then add the unbeaten whites of the eggs, one at a time. Beat until very light. When ready to serve put in a double boiler over the fire; add hot water and rum and stir until frothy and hot. Serve immediately. LEMON Sauce-No. 736. 1 pound sugar, 2 ounces butter, 1} gills wine, 1 large lemon cut in slices. To Make: Beat the sugar and butter into a cream; put in a double boiler and stir over the fire until it bubbles. Remove the seed from the lemon and stir it in; simmer a few minutes longer; add the wine. Mix all thoroughly and serve hot. BRANDY SAUCE–No. 737. pound butter, 4 tablespoons brandy, pound sugar, 1 teaspoon powdered mace, teaspoon powdered cloves. 244 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. To Make: Beat the sugar and butter together into a cream; siſt in the mace and cloves. Put in a double boiler and stir over the fire until the mixture simmers; add the brandy; mix well and serve hot. Rum Sauce-No. 738. Make exactly as directed for brandy sauce (No. 737), substituting rum for brandy and using six ounces of sugar instead of one-half pound. LEMON SAUCE-No. 739. 1 egg 1 heaped cup sugar, 1 pint water, grated rind of 1 lemon, juice of 2 lemons, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 tablespoon corn starch or flour. To Make : Boil the water, and thicken with the corn starch or Aour by directions for thickening (No. 124). Beat the egg and mix gradually into the water, stirring constantly; add the butter and lemon rind; stir well. Take from the fire, stir in the lemon juice, and serve hot. ORANGE SAUCE-No. 740. Make exactly as directed for lemon sauce (No. 739); substituting orange for lemon in the same proportion. BROWN SUGAR SAUCE—No. 741. pound butter, 8 tablespoons nice brown sugar, i gill wine, 1 egg, grated nutmeg. To Make : Beat the sugar and butter together until light and creamy; drop in the egg, and beat again. Put into a double boiler; stir over the fire until it comes to a boil; add wine and nutmeg, and serve hot. Cakes. GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING CAKE–No. 742. Before beginning to make cake have in place every utensil and every ingredient you intend using; all the ingredients measured or weighed, spices beaten, fruit prepared, etc.; all untensils clean and turned upside down, such pans or moulds as are to be lined with paper and greased, or simply greased, made ready before they are turned upside down. Have also in place water and towels for your hands; then stop and consider if all is in readiness; if not, supply the need. Then go to work quickly and systematically. Be sure that all materials to be used are of the very best quality. Have the eggs cold, and never beat them in a tin vessel, but in a china bowl with a wooden or silver spoon for the yolks, a whip for the whites. Do not break them over the bowl in which they are to be beaten. Sepa- rate the whites and the yolks, unless directed to the contrary; measure or weigh before sifting, unless directed to the contrary. If granu- lated sugar is used roll before sifting it; if pulverized sugar is used simply sift it, unless it is lumpy. Lard is best to grease the cake- pans, as butter burns easily. Pans or moulds should never be more than two-thirds full (not as full as that if baking powder has been used in mixing the cake). Learn to use judgment about the thick- ness of the batter, as flour differs in its thickening qualities. When a receipt calls for one teaspoon of baking powder you can always use in its place one teaspoon of cream tartar or vinegar and one- half teaspoon of soda; siſt the cream tartar in the flour if you should have occasion to use it, and always dissolve the soda in hot water before adding it to anything. Have the receipt by you, and always mix according to directions given, unless you learn a better way by experience. When you begin to mix the cake start the fire and let the oven be heating, so as to be ready to receive the cake as soon as it is ready to bake. Test the oven as before directed for bread. If it is too hot open the door and let it cool; if not hot enough increase the heat. Apply such heat as is suitable for the cake to be baked. Fruit and molasses cakes require a slow oven and constant watch- ing, as they burn easily; pound cake, such an oven as you use for loaf bread; sponge cake, a moderate oven first, with increasing 248 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. heat. All cakes with butter require a moderate oven and longer cooking than those without it; small rolled cakes a moderately quick oven. All cakes should be at least ten minutes in the oven before beginning to brown. Never move a cake after putting it in the oven until the middle is thoroughly set, and never put anything else in the oven after you put the cake in. When the door is opened to look at the cake close it as quickly as possible, and as gently, so as not to jar the cake. Do not take the cake out of the oven until you are sure it is done and soaked. To ascertain when it is done, run a straw into the thickest part of the cake. If the straw comes out clean the cake is done. Its leaving the sides of the pan is also an indication of its being done. But even when done large cakes require to be soaked, with the door open to reduce the heat. Let the cake cool enough to handle before taking it out of the pan; turn out gently on a cake-cooler, or on an old-fashioned sifter inverted. Never allow the cake to lie flat on a solid surface, but fix it so that the air can pass around it; remove the paper while the cake is warm and leave the cake to cool, handling it as little as possible. If you use cups for measuring use the same cup for measuring everything. Be always accurate in your weights and measures. If cake browns too rapidly put on the shelf with it a pan of cold water. If necessary, renew the cold water or lay over the cake a sheet of buttered paper. GINGERBREAD OR Risen GINGERCAKE–No. 743. 4 eggs, 4 large tablespoonsground ginger, 3 gills of sugar (brown), 1 tablespoon of ground allspice 3 gills of molasses, and cloves, } of the spoon 3 gills of butter, being cloves, 1 light quart of flour, yeast powder can be used instead 2 gills of sour milk or clabber, of soda and sour milk; in that 2 small teaspoons of soda, case, use the same quantity of 1 teaspoon salt, sweet milk as ordered of sour. To Mix: Stir the sugar and butter together; beat into a cream; separate the eggs, and beat light, beating the salt with the whites. Dissolve one-half of the soda in boiling water, and stir into the sour milk; the other half dissolve in boiling water, and stir it into the molasses. Stir until the molasses becomes light and foamy; then mix all the ingredients into the sugar and butter, adding first flour, INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 249 then egg, then molasses, then spice, and so continue until all is mixed. Give the whole a good beating, and add the milk last. Bake in rather a slow oven. If baking powder is used instead of soda, disregard the directions for mixing soda, and stir in baking powder just before putting the cake in the mould. GINGERBREAD–No. 744. * pound butter, 1 pound stale bread crumbs, pound sugar, pint flour, 1 pint molasses, 6 eggs, 4 tablespoons ginger, 1 teaspoon powdered cloves, 1 teaspoon powdered allspice, 1 pint milk, 1 teaspoon soda, 1 teaspoon salt. To Mix: Beat the butter to a cream, then add the sugar; beat the eggs together until light, add them to the butter and sugar and beat well. Dissolve the soda in a tablespoon of boiling water, add it to the molasses, mix until the molasses becomes foamy; stir it into the other ingredients; add the milk, bread crumbs, and flour; beat all until smooth, then add the spices, mix well and pour into well-greased shallow pans. Bake in a moderate oven thirty or thirty-five minutes. GINGERBREAD–No. 745. 11 pound flour, 6 eggs, 4 pound butter, 1 pint molasses, 4 pound sugar, 2 ounces ginger, To Mix : Separate the eggs and beat light; beat the sugar into the yolks; cream butter and flour together; add molasses and ginger; cream again until all are thoroughly mixed; add the yolks and sugar. Give the whole a good beating. Last, beat in very lightly the whites previously beaten to a stiff froth. Put in a but- tered cake mould, and bake in a moderate oven. Soft GINGERBREAD—No. 746. 3 eggs, 1) cups sugar, 3 cups molasses, 2 tablespoons ginger, 11 tablespoons lard, 1 tablespoon allspice, 5 cups flour, 1 teaspoon baking powder. To Mix: Beat the eggs together; beat into them all the other ingredients; baking powder last. Bake in a shallow tin-pan (but- tered) in a moderate oven. 250 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. My Own HARD GINGERCAKES—No. 747. 3 quarts of flour, 9 tablespoons ground ginger, 1 pound of brown sugar, 2 teaspoons of salt, pound of butter and lard 2 teaspoons of ground allspice, mixed, 1 teaspoon of ground cloves, 19 pints of molasses, 1 teaspoon of soda, 1 tablespoon boiling water. To Mix: Sift the flour and make a hollow in the middle; put in sugar, butter, and lard, salt, and spice. Dissolve the soda in the boiling water, and stir it into the molasses until the molasses is light and foamy. Rub all the solid ingredients together; when well mixed, pour in the molasses very slowly, so as not to get the dough too wet. (There are differences in molasses and flour as well as in the temperature that render this precaution necessary.) Work all together until perfectly smooth. Should the molasses not be suffi- cient to mix the dough, use a little milk. See that it is all smooth, without any lumps. Roll thin, cut into cakes, and bake in a quick oven. Hot-WATER SPONGE Cake-No. 748. 1) cups powdered sugar, 4 eggs, 1 cup flour, 2 small teaspoons yeast powder, 1 pinch salt, 4 teaspoons boiling water. To Mix: Beat yolks and sugar thoroughly, add beaten whites, then four; whip in, and stir in boiling water. Bake in a cake mould. SPONGE CAKE-No. 749. 10 eggs, weight of 9 eggs in sugar, grated rind and juice of 1 lemon, weight of 5 eggs in flour, $ teaspoon salt. - To Mix: Beat the eggs separately. Beat the sugar into the yolks and the salt into the whites. Beat the whites lightly into the yolks, also the lemon rind and juice. Whip the flour in and bake in a buttered mould in a moderate oven, with an increasing heat. · SPONGE CAKE-No. 750. 12 eggs, weight of the eggs in sugar, 1 teaspoon salt, weight of 6 eggs in flour, grated rind and juice of 2 lemons. we INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 251 To Mix: Separate eggs and beat very light; putting the salt in the whites. Beat the sugar into the yolks; add whites and lemon; lastly, the flour, whipping it in as lightly as possible. Do not beat at all after the flour is added. Bake in a moderate oven, increasing the heat gradually, BUTTER SPONGE–No. 751. 12 eggs, 1 pound sugar, 1 pound butter, pound flour, grated rind of 2 lemons, 1 teaspoon salt. To Mir: Cream the butter and flour together until very light. Separate the eggs and beat light; beat the sugar into the yolks; add the whites beaten to a stiff froth. Pour the eggs very gradually into the flour and butter. Cream and beat until smooth and light. Season with the lemon peel. Bake in a buttered cake mould in a moderate oven with rather an increasing heat. This is also nice baked in cups or in shallow pans, to be used as a layer cake. POUND CAKE–No. 752. I pound of flour, grated rind and juice of 1 lemon, or 1 pound of butter, 2 teaspoons of powdered mace, 1 pound of sugar, sifted, 12 eggs. To Mix: Cream the flour and butter together, first washing the butter if it is very salt. Separate the eggs and beat light; beat the sugar into the yolks, and add to the yolks the whites beaten very stiff; cream the beaten eggs and sugar into the flour and butter, adding them very slowly. When all is mixed thoroughly and is perfectly smooth, stir in the seasoning. Put in lined, greased moulds, and bake in a slow oven. POUND CAKE-No. 753. 10 eggs, pound butter, 1 pound flour, 1 pound sugar, 11 teaspoons ground mace. To Mix: Mix and bake as directed for pound cake (No. 752). HANDY CAKE-No. 754. 1 pound flour, 6 ounces butter, 1 pound sugar, 2 teaspoons baking powder, } pint milk, grated rind of 1 lemon. 252 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. To Mix: Separate the eggs; beat the yolks and sugar together until light; add the milk and butter, melted; put in the seasoning. Mix the baking powder and flour together; sift into the eggs, etc.; add the well-beaten whites; give the whole a good beating; put into a buttered mould and bake in a moderate oven.. SPICE CAKE-No. 755. 1 pound flour, pint milk, 1 pound butter, 5 eggs, 1 tablespoon mixed spices (nutmeg, 1 pound sugar, allspice, and mace), 2 teaspoons baking powder, teaspoon salt. To Mix: Cream the butter and flour together. Beat the yolks and sugar until light, add the whipped whites; mix well; sift the spices in and pour on the flour and butter; beat until perfectly smooth; add the milk; give the whole a good beating; sift and stir in the baking powder. Bake in a large, well-buttered mould. SUNSHINE CAKE-No. 756. Whites of 10 eggs, 12 ounces granulated sugar, yolks of 5 eggs, 6 ounces flour, 1 scant tablespoon cream of tartar, yellow rind of 1 lemon and 1 juice of 1 large orange, large orange, grated. To Mix : Beat the whites very stiff, and siſt the sugar into them gradually, beating with an egg-whip. Beat the yolks very light, and add to them the orange juice; add the yolks to the whites and mix thoroughly but lightly. Put in the grated rind of the orange and lemon; last, sift and whip in the four as directed for sponge cake (No. 750). Bake in an ungreased pan only half full. Ice with orange icing. ANGEL's Food—No. 757. Whites of 11 eggs, 1tumblers pulverized sugar, 1 teaspoon extract vanilla, 1 tumbler flour, 1 even teaspoon cream tartar. To Make : Beat the whites of the eggs very stiff; siſt in the sugar very gradually and lightly. Sift the flour four times; add the cream tartar and sift again; sift and whip it into the eggs very lightly; add the vanilla. Pour into a pan without greasing it at all, and bake for about three-quarters of an hour. Don't open the oven door for INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 253 fifteen minutes after putting the cake in. Let it cool in the pan; turning it upside down with the edges resting on another pan so that the air has free access to it. SILVER CAKE-No. 758. 3 cups flour, 2 cups sugar, cup butter, ſ cup milk or water, 1 teaspoon baking powder, whites of 8 eggs, extract bitter almond to taste. To Mix: Beat the sugar and butter into a cream; add the milk; siſt in the flour, and give the whole a good beating. Beat the whites until very stiff and firm; beat them and baking powder into the batter; season to taste. Bake in a buttered cake mould in a moderate oven. Gold CAKE–No. 759. 2 cups flour, i cup milk or water, cup butter, . 13 cups sugar, 1 teaspoon baking powder, yolks of 8 eggs, 1 teaspoon powdered mace. To Mix: Cream the butter and flour together; beat the yolks and sugar until very light; add to the butter and flour. Give the whole a good beating; add the milk and mace; beat again; sift and beat in the baking powder. Put in a buttered cake mould, and bake in a moderate oven. White Cake-No. 760. Whites of 16 eggs, pound butter, 1 teaspoon cream of tartar, 1 pound flour, bitter almond to taste, 1 pound sugar. To Mix: Cream the butter and sugar together; add the other in- gredients, putting the whites beaten very stiff last. Bake in a but- tered mould or pans in a rather quick oven. ALMOND CAKE–No. 761. 1 pound powdered sugar, 8 eggs, 1 pound flour, pound blanched almonds, pound butter, * teaspoon bitter almond. To Mix: Separate the eggs and beat light. Stir the butter and sugar to a cream; add the well-beaten yolks; beat very light before putting in the flour. Blanch the almonds and pound them to a 254 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. smooth paste with a little rose water; stir into the batter alternately with the whites; add the bitter almond. Bake in a buttered pan or mould with a moderate and rather increasing heat. CITRON Cake-No. 762. 1 cup milk, pound butter, 1 pound flour, whites of 15 eggs, 1 pound sugar, 2 pounds citron, 2 pounds blanched almonds. To Mix: Cream the butter and flour together until very light; beat in the sugar and milk. Slice the citron in small pieces very thin. Slice the almonds. Flour both citron and almonds; beat them into the batter. Beat the whites very stiff and add them to the mixture. Bake in a greased cake mould in a hot oven. BRIDES' CAKE-No. 763. 14 pounds sugar, 18 ounces flour, 1 pound butter, 2 ounces blanched and beaten whites of 15 eggs, almonds. To Mix: Cream the butter and sugar together; add the almonds. Sift the flour twice. Whip the eggs until very stiff ; beat them lightly into the sugar, etc. Sift and whip in the flour, as directed for sponge cake (No. 750). Bake in a hot oven in a cake mould with a long stem. Turn upside down when done to cool. Fruit Cake-No. 764. 1 pound flour, 2 teaspoons mace, 1 pound sugar, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, 1 pound butter, 1 nutmeg (all ground and sifted), 12 eggs, 1 small teaspoon salt, 2 pounds raisins, stoned, 2 wine glasses of wine, or wine 2 pounds currants, washed and and spirit mixed. cleaned, pound almonds, blanched and 1 pound citron, cut fine and thin, chopped fine or coarse as 1 teaspoon allspice, preferred, or, if you wish it teaspoon cloves, very rich, 1 pound almonds. To Mix: Mix as for pound cake. When the batter is perfectly smooth and light, beat or work in the fruit, having floured it well beforehand; add seasoning and spirit. Bake in a slow oven until thoroughly baked and soaked, the length of time determined by the size and richness of the cake. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 255 Fruit Cake-No. 765. 2 pounds butter, 1 gill brandy, 2 pounds seeded raisins, 18 eggs, 2 pounds sliced citron, ounce ground mace, 2 pounds sugar, 2 grated nutmegs, 2 pounds flour. To Mix: Mix as directed for fruit cake (No. 764). Bake in a buttered mould in a moderately hot oven. WHITE Fruit CakE—No. 766. 1 pound sugar, 12 eggs, 1 pound flour, 1 gill wine and brandy, mixed, 1 pound butter, 1 teaspoon ground mace, 1 pound seeded raisins, 1 pound cleaned currants, pound citron, 1 pound blanched almonds. To Mix: Cream the flour and butter together. Separate the eggs and beat the sugar with the yolks until very light. Whip the whites and add them to the yolks and sugar. Beat well. Mix gradually with the batter and flour. Cream all together until perfectly smooth. Flour the fruit and sprinkle it in, creaming it as you do so. Add the wine, brandy, and mace. Bake in lined moulds, well greased. Black Cake-No. 767. 1 pound blanched almonds, 2 gills cream, 1 pound butter, 12 eggs, 1 pound brown sugar, 1 nutmeg, grated, 1 pound flour, 1 teaspoon ground mace, 3 pounds seeded raisins, 1 teaspoon ground allspice, 3 pounds cleaned currants, 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, 1 pound sliced citron, 1 gill brandy, 2 gills molasses. To Mix: Cream the flour and butter together until very light; add to them the molasses and spices, sifted. Separate the eggs and beat the yolks and sugar together until very light; add the well- beaten whites; when mixed and light add gradually to the flour, butter, etc. Mix and beat well. Flour the fruit and almonds, work them into the batter, adding the cream and brandy as it thickens. Give the whole a good beating with the hand. Put into greased and lined moulds and bake in a slow oven from four to eight hours, according to the size of the cake. 256 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. Small Fruit Cakes—No. 768. 1 pound sugar, 1 pound seeded raisins, 1 pound four, 1 pound cleaned currants, pound butter, pound sliced citron, 8 eggs, 1 teaspoon ground mace. To Mix: Mix as directed for fruit cake (No. 766). Bake in but- tered cups. BANBURY CAKES—No. 769. 1 pound sugar, 10 eggs, 1 pound flour, pound seeded raisins, 3 pound butter, pound cleaned currants, juice and rind of 1 large orange and 1 lemon. To Mix: Mix by directions for fruit cake (No. 766). Bake in buttered cups or little tins. Snow Balls—No. 770. Cover with a white icing (No. 800) the small fruit cakes (No. 768). Dry thoroughly, and they are ready to serve. Snow balls not so rich may be made by icing Banbury cakes (No. 769) or any simple fruit cake. If preferred richer, use any of the rich fruit cake batters. Cup Cakes—No. 771. 5 cups flour, 1 cup butter, 3 cups sugar, 1 cup cream, rind and juice of 1 lemon, 6 eggs, 1 teaspoon baking powder. To Mix: Cream the butter and flour together; beat the yolks and sugar. Whip the whites light, and add them to the yolks; pour on the flour, etc.; add the seasoning and baking powder. Beat all together until very light. Bake in greased baking-cups. PLAIN Snow Balls—No. 772. Plain snow balls may be made by baking pound cake (No. 752) in cups, and covering with white icing. If a snow ball not so rich is preferred, bake butter sponge (No. 751) in cups, and ice, or any simple cup cake may be baked and iced in this way. PECAN CAKE—No. 773. 1 quart flour, whites of 8 eggs, 1 pound granulated sugar, 13 cups milk, 1 pound butter, 2 teaspoons baking powder. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 257 Filling. To Mix: Beat the sugar and butter to cream; add the milk gradually, and beat again. Mix the flour and baking powder; siſt and whip them into the butter, etc.; add the whites of the eggs beaten stiff; mix thoroughly but lightly. Bake in four medium- sized layer cake tins. 1pounds pecans, ļ pint milk, 2 pounds brown sugar, pound butter. To Mix: Stir the sugar and butter together until thoroughly mixed; add the milk gradually; put in a saucepan, and cook over the fire until the sugar is about to granulate. Try it in cold water (if it hardens it is done). Have the nuts prepared and chopped, not too fine. Stir into the sugar, etc. Leave half the filling in a double boiler or bowl, in hot water, to keep soft while you spread the remaining half between the layers. When the last layer is used cover the whole with the filling left in the hot water. Nut CAKE—No. 774. 1 cup butter, 3 cups flour, 1 cup milk, 3 eggs, 2 cups granulated sugar, 1 tablespoon baking powder, cup chopped English walnuts. To Mix: Beat the butter and sugar to a cream; add the milk, and beat again; separate the eggs, and beat light. Add the yolks and nuts to the butter and sugar; beat until thoroughly mixed; sift in the flour and baking powder; add the whites, beating in lightly; bake in square layer cake tins; cover with icing (No. 800). Dot the top with halves of English walnuts. MINNIHAHA Cake-No. 775. Make either sponge (No. 749) or butter sponge cake (No. 751), and bake in layer cake tins. Make the filling as follows: 2 cups seeded raisins, 2 dozen large raisins, 2 cups blanched almonds, white of 1 egg, icing (No. 800), 2 tablespoons powdered sugar, 2 dozen blanched almonds. To Mix: Beat the white of the egg and the sugar together until light. Beat into them the chopped raisins and the pounded almonds; spread between the layers of cake and cover with the icing (No. 800). Split the two dozen almonds and put them and the whole raisins on the top of the cake before the icing hardens. 258 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. . Fig Cake-No. 776. 3 cups sugar, whites of 6 eggs, 4 cups flour, 2 teaspoons baking powder, 1 cup butter, 2 pounds seeded raisins, 1 cup milk, 2 pounds figs. To Mix : Cream the butter and sugar together; beat it very light. Whip the whites of the eggs, and put them in the butter, etc., alternately with the flour, a little at a time; add the milk. Give the whole a good beating. Put in one-half the raisins, floured. Grease layer cake tins; put in the bottom a thin layer of the batter. Split and quarter half the figs; put over the batter a layer of figs; then another layer of batter. Bake in a hot oven. When cool, chop the remaining raisins and figs; mix and spread them between the layers of cake. When the last one is used, cover with yellow icing (No. 803). The raisins may be omitted, and the cake is probably nicer without them. RIBBON CAKE—No. 777. 2 cups sugar, 1 cup milk, 4 cup butter, 3 cups flour, 1 teaspoon baking powder, 3 eggs, $ teaspoon salt, 1 cup seeded and chopped 1 cup shredded citron, raisins, 1 cup cleaned currants, 1 teaspoon mixed spices, 1 cup molasses, 1 cup flour. To Mix: Separate the eggs and beat light. Beat the sugar into the yolks. Mix the baking powder and four and beat into the yolks and sugar, adding very gradually the milk. Melt and beat in the butter and the salt; beat in lightly the whites, beaten stiff. Fill two buttered layer cake tins with this batter, and bake in a moderate oven until done. Into the remainder of the batter, beat the raisins, citron, currants, spices, molasses and the half cup of flour. Give the whole a good beating before pouring into one or two (it depends upon the depth of the pan) layer cake tins, and bake in a moderate oven. Put the layers together with currant jelly, alternating fruit and plain cake. Cover with a white icing (No. 800). INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 259 7 eggs, COOKING SCHOOL LAYER CAKE–No. 778. '1 quart flour, 3 cups sugar, 13 cups butter, 1 cup milk, 2 teaspoons baking powder. To Mix: Separate the eggs; beat the yolks and sugar until very light; add milk and butter, melted; sift together the flour and baking powder; beat lightly into the yolks, etc. Whip the whites very stiff, and beat them lightly in the cake; bake in layer cake tins. Filling. 1 egg, 1 lemon, 2 large apples, 1 cup sugar. Beat into the egg the juice and grated rind of the lemon with the sugar. Peel and grate the apples; add them to the egg, etc.; mix well, and put in a double boiler; stir over the fire until the mixture comes to boiling point; take off; cool and spread between the cakes. Cover with an icing (No. 800). LAYER CAKE–No. 779. 2 cups of butter, 1 cup of milk, 5 cups of four, 10 eggs, 4 cups of sugar, seasoning to taste, 1 teaspoon of salt. Mix as directed for 1-2-3-4 cake (No. 793); bake in layer tins, and finish with any filling and icing preferred. ICE CREAM CAKE–No. 780. 2 cups sugar, 1 cup of milk, 1 cup of butter, whites of 8 eggs, 1 cup of corn starch, 2 teaspoons Royal baking 2 cups of four, powder. To Mix: Cream the butter and sugar together; stir into this the milk, and give the batter a good beating; sift in the flour, stirring it as you siſt; give the batter another good beating; stir in the well- beaten whites (in which you have beaten the salt); bake in layer cake tins. · Filling. 4 cups of sugar, 2 small teaspoons of the satu- 2 gills of water, rated solution of citric acid. the whites of 4 eggs, 2 teaspoons extract vanilla. 260 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 4 eggs, Put between the layers, and cover the outside of the cake with this icing. Should it be too thick thin it with a little boiling water. Make filling by directions No. 801. Cream Cake-No. 781. 1 cup sugar, 1 tablespoon extract vanilla, 13 cups flour, 1 teaspoon baking powder. To Mix : Separate the eggs and beat until very light; add the sugar to the yolks, and mix thoroughly. Beat the whites very stiff and add to the yolks. Mix the flour and baking powder ; siſt and whip into the eggs as lightly and quickly as possible; add vanilla. Bake in two layer cake tins. Filling: } pint milk, 1 tablespoon corn starch, 1 egg, a little cold milk, 1} tablespoons sugar, extract vanilla to season. To Make : Put the milk in a double boiler; beat the egg and sugar together until light; mix the corn starch with the cold milk, and beat into the egg. When the milk boils, thicken with the egg, etc., and stir over the fire until the corn starch is cooked. Take from the fire; stir until cool; season with vanilla, and spread between the two cakes. Cover with a white icing, or sift sugar on top. CREAM Cake-No. 782. 3 cups flour, whites of 4 egg, 2 cups sugar, 2 teaspoons baking powder, } cup butter, juice of 1 lemon, 1 cup milk. To Mix: Beat the sugar and butter to a cream; add the milk. Mix the baking powder and flour and siſt twice; whip these into the butter, sugar, etc.; add the lemon juice and give the whole a good beating; add the whites beaten very stiff; mix thoroughly but lightly and bake in layer cake tins. Filling 2 tablespoons gelatine, cold water enough to cover gel- 6 tablespoons boiling water, atine, 8 tablespoons pulverized sugar, vanilla to season. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 261 Cover the gelatine with the cold water; let it soak twenty minutes; dissolve in the boiling water; stir until dissolved and strain on the sugar, which has been sifted; add the vanilla and beat until light and creamy. Stand on ice until quite cold and thick. Spread between the cakes; ice, or cover with powdered sugar. White MOUNTAIN Cake-No. 783. 1 pound white sugar, 1 cup butter, whites of 10 eggs, } cup milk, 2 teaspoons baking powder, 3 cups flour, bitter almond to season. To Mix : Beat the sugar, butter, and milk to a cream. Sift the flour and baking powder together; siſt them into the butter and sugar; beat until perfectly smooth; whip in the well-beaten whites; Season with the bitter almond, and bake in layer cake tins. Filling. 3 cups sugar, whites of 3 eggs, 2 grated cocoanuts, vanilla to season. Stir the whites; siſt in the sugar; add vanilla to taste. Beat until white and stiff. Spread a layer of icing, then a layer of grated cocoanut between each cake. When the last cake is used, cover with icing. Pile cocoanut on top, and stand aside to harden. ORANGE CAKE-No. 784. 2 cups sugar, 13 tablespoons orange juice, 2 cups flour, cup butter, yolks of 5 eggs, 1 cup water, 14 teaspoons baking powder, whites of 4 eggs, grated rind of 1 orange. To Mix: Beat the butter to a cream, then add the sugar; sepa- rate the eggs; beat light, and add them to the butter and sugar. Add the rind and juice of the orange and the water; give the whole a good beating; siſt, and whip in the flour and baking powder; bake in layer cake tins. When cold put icing between the cakes and over the top. Icing—No. 785. White of 1 egg, grated rind of 1 orange, juice of 14 oranges, 13 cups pulverized sugar. Beat all together until perfectly smooth. 262 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. GENERAL LEE's Cake-No. 786. 15 eggs, $ teaspoon salt, juice of 3 lemons, weight of the eggs in sugar, weight of 7 eggs in flour. To Mix: Beat the whites until they are very stiff; beat the yolks and sugar together until they are covered with bubbles; rub off the outside of the lemons with lumps of sugar, and put it in the juice; when the eggs are perfectly light sift in the flour, and stir it in as lightly as possible; add the lemon juice and salt, and bake in layer cake tins. When quite cold spread on the filling between the cakes and over the top. Filling. 23 pounds pulverized sugar, the juice, grated yellow rind, and pulp of 3 oranges and 1 lemon. Mix all well together, and when the cake is cold spread on like jelly. Ice over the top with icing (No. 800). Grated cocoanut sprinkled on top of the icing between the cakes is very nice. This makes two very large layer cakes. General Lee's Cake-No. 787. 10 eggs, 1 pound sugar, 1 lemon, 1 pound flour, * pound butter. To Mix: Separate the eggs and beat until very light. Add to the yolks the sugar; beat and add the melted butter. Beat the whites stiff and beat them into the yolks, etc. Add the grated rind and juice of the lemon. Sift and whip in the flour. Bake in layer cake tins. Filling. 14 pounds of sugar, 2 lemons, 1 orange, whites of 2 eggs. To Mix: Beat the eggs and sugar together as for common icing, adding the juice of the lemons and orange and the grated rind of the orange. Sadie's CHOCOLATE Cake-No. 788. 2 cups sugar, 4 eggs, 1} cups milk, 2 teaspoons baking powder, 1 cup butter, } cup grated chocolate, 4 cups flour. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 263 To Mix: Beat the yolk of one egg with one cup of sugar, one- half cup milk, and the chocolate; put in a double boiler and cook until it begins to thicken, stirring frequently. With the other in- gredients make a light batter, melting the butter before mixing. Beat the chocolate mixture into the batter; mix thoroughly, and bake in layer cake tins in a quick oven. Put together, and cover with boiled icing (No. 801) highly seasoned with vanilla. WINCHESTER CAKE–No. 789. 1 pound flour, 1 pound sugar, pound butter, 6 eggs, 2 teaspoonfuls soda, 1 teacupful sour cream or milk, 1 teaspoonful tartaric acid, 1 wineglass rose water. In half the cream dissolve the soda, in the other half the acid. Cream butter and sugar together; add the eggs beaten separately; next the rose water, then the dissolved soda, and then stir in the flour, and last of all stir in the dissolved acid, stirring very lightly. Imme- diately after putting in the acid pour into flat pans and bake in a moderate oven three-quarters of an hour. When cold cut into squares and siſt powdered sugar over them. Sheet Cake-No. 790. 6 cups flour, 10 eggs, 4 cups sugar, 1 cup butter, 2 cups milk, grated rind of 2 large lemons, 2 teaspoons baking powder. To Mix: Beat the yolks and sugar together; cream the butter slightly and add to the yolks; beat the whites very stiff and add them, then lemon rind. Sift the flour once, and then sift it in the batter alternately with the milk. Bake in shallow pans. Ice with any icing preferred, and cut in squares. JELLY Cake ROLL-No. 791. Bake in a shallow tin-pan sponge cake batter (No. 749). The sheet of cake should be rather more than a quarter of an inch thick when baked. Spread while warm with jelly or jam of any kind (pine- apple is very nice). Roll up, press the outer edge slightly, and roll in a clean linen cloth, not tight enough to make the cake heavy, but close enough to keep it in shape until it is cold. When ready to serve, cut in slices of any thickness preferred. 264 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. Mrs. Mann's Cake-No. 792. 1 quart flour, 4 cups sugar, pound butter, 4 eggs, 2 teaspoons soda, 2 cups milk, 4 teaspoons cream of tartar, 2 teaspoons powdered mace. To Mix : Sift together the flour, cream of tartar, and soda; sift a second time. Rub into the flour the butter (butter and lard may be used). Separate the eggs, and beat the yolks and sugar together until very light; add the well-beaten whites; mix well, and pour on the flour and butter; add the seasoning, and beat all together until thoroughly mixed. Pour in shallow buttered tins, and bake in a quick oven. Huckleberries may be added to this cake; allow one and a half pints of berries to this quantity. 1-2-3-4 Cake-No. 793. 1 cup butter, 1 cup milk, 2 cups sugar, 3 cups flour, 4 eggs, a pinch of salt, seasoning to taste. To Mix: Beat the butter to a cream; beat into it the sugar, then the yolks beaten light, then the flour sifted in. Beat well until per- fectly smooth; stir in the milk gradually; add seasoning, and last, stir in the whites beaten to a stiff froth, the salt beaten into them. Bake in a moderate oven. 1-2-3-4 cake can be used for layer or cup cakes, or baked in a sheet iced and cut into blocks; or it may be used as a pudding eaten with a sauce. Sugar Cakes—No. 794. 1 quart flour, * teaspoon baking powder (if 4 pound brown sugar, you use it), 3 eggs, season with grated rind of 1 1 pound butter and lard, mixed, orange, 1 teaspoon salt. To Mix: Sift the salt and flour, and mix seasoning together. Make a hollow in the middle of the four; put in the shortening; rub until thoroughly mixed with the flour; beat the eggs light without separating them; beat the sugar into the eggs; add them slowly to the flour and shortening. Work all together until thor- oughly mixed and perfectly smooth. Put on a foured board; roll thin; cut into cakes, and bake in a quick oven. 266 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. To Mix: Mix as directed (No. 797); roll out one-quarter of an inch thick; cut, bake, glaze, and stick with blanched almonds, split and cut in half. MARGUERITES—No. 799. 1 pound sugar, yolks of 6 eggs, 1 pound butter, whites of 2 eggs, 1$ pound flour, 1 teaspoon mixed spices (cinna- 1 gill rose water, mon, mace, and nutmeg), $ pint currant jelly or rasp- 1 pound xxx sugar, berry jam, juice of 1 lemon. To Mix: Rub together the butter, sugar, and four until well mixed; beat the yolks and the two whites until very light; add to the flour, etc. Put in the spices and rose water; work until well mixed and perfectly smooth. Roll one-quarter of an inch thick; cut in round cakes, and bake in a quick oven. When cold, spread the surface of each cake with the jelly or jam. Beat the whites of the four eggs and the xxx sugar and lemon juice into a stiff icing, put on each cake, piling slightly. Put them in the oven until a light brown. BEAT IÇING–No. 800. White of 1 egg, } pint pulverized sugar, 1 teaspoon lemon juice, or 1 teaspoon of vanilla. To Mix: Put the unbeaten white of the egg into a bowl; stir until the white is broken; sift into it the sugar; beat until white and thick; add the seasoning; if too thick to run smoothly add a little water, and beat again until smooth; spread smoothly on the cake, and leave to harden. BOILED IÇING–No. 801. White of 1 egg, } gill of water, pint of sugar, lemon or vanilla to season. To Make ; Stir water and sugar together; stew until the sugar ropes when dropped in cold water; pour slowly upon the well- beaten white, stirring as you pour; when all is well mixed beat until perfectly smooth and thick enough to run nicely; season; spread on the cake, and leave to harden. Great care must be taken not to let the sugar burn; at the same time it must be thoroughly cooked. Care, also, is necessary in mixing the egg and sugar; they must be stirred constantly. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 267 Mix Aour, butted grated rind until the co CREAM FROSTING–No. 802. Take the white of one egg and add to it an equal quantity of cold water; stir in this xxx powdered sugar until it is the right con- sistency to spread on the cake; flavor with vanilla, rose, or almond to taste. A few drops of cochineal syrup will color this a beautiful rose. Yellow Icing—No. 803. Yolks of 4 eggs, 4 cups pulverized sugar, vanilla or lemon juice to taste. To Make : Put the yolks in a cold bowl; stir them until well broken up; sift in the sugar; add the seasoning, and beat until per- fectly smooth and of a proper consistency for icing. This is a new and very nice covering for cakes. LEMON Filling—No. 804. Juice and grated rind of 2 2 eggs, lemons, 1 cup water, 1 cup sugar, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 tablespoon flour. To Mix: Mix flour, butter, and sugar into a smooth paste with the water; add the juice and grated rind of the lemon, then the well-beaten eggs. Put in a double boiler until the consistency of thick icing. PLAIN CREAM FILLING–No. 805. 1 pint milk, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 cup sugar, seasoning to taste (vanilla is the 1 cup corn starch, nicest). To Mix: Put milk on in a double boiler; mix butter, sugar, and corn starch into a smooth batter. When the milk boils, add it to this mixture slowly; return to the saucepan, and boil until the con- sistency of thick icing; spread between cakes. Ice with white icing, or siſt over pulverized sugar. CHOCOLATE FILLING–No. 806. 2 cups sugar, white of 1 egg, enough water to moisten it, pound chocolate. To Make : Crack the chocolate; put it on with the sugar and water in a double boiler. When the chocolate is melted, add the white of the egg unbeaten; stir well; cook until it begins to thicken. Take from the fire; beat until smooth; season with one teaspoon of vanilla; put between and over a nice layer cake. 2 cup INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 269 BATTER FILLING–No. 812. 1 kitchen spoon cake batter, 1 egg, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 lemon, 1 tablespoon flour, 1 cup sugar. To Mix: Rub the butter and flour to a smooth paste; add to this the egg, without separating; mix and beat until smooth; beat in the sugar, then the cake batter, lemon juice and rind; beat together until smooth. Put in a double boiler, and stir over the fire until the proper consistency for spreading between layer cake. Use with any cake preferred. Cover cake with icing or sift powdered sugar over it. GELATINE Icing—No. 813. Put one even tablespoon of gelatine into a bowl; cover it with one tablespoon of cold water; let it soak half an hour; then add two tablespoons of boiling water; stir until dissolved; add pulverized sugar to make the mixture the proper consistency to spread. Beat well. Season to taste. Let the cake cool, spread the icing quickly over it, and stand in a cool place to dry. ORANGE ICING–No. 814. 3 pound powdered sugar, 1 tablespoon boiling water, grated rind of 1 orange, orange juice sufficient to moisten. To Mix: Put the sugar in a bowl; add the rind and then the water and juice. Mix well. This icing should be very stiff, and used immediately. ORANGE FILLING—No. 815. Make exactly as directed for lemon filling (No. 804), substituting orange for lemon juice and rind. ALMOND ICING–No. 816. Whites of 4 eggs, 1 pound blanched almonds, a little rose water, 1 pound powdered sugar. To Mix: Pound the almonds, in a wedge-wood mortar, with the rose water. When beaten fine and smooth beat gradually into icing made with eggs and sugar, as in No. 800. Put on very thick and, when nearly dry, cover with the plain icing. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 273 BROWN BETTY—No. 821. Butter a baking-dish, and line the bottom with thin slices of but- tered bread; cover rather thickly with chopped apples; put over this a layer of sugar, grated nutmeg, or lemon peel, and then thin slices of buttered bread; so continue until the dish is full, having the last layer apples and sugar. Sprinkle the top with bread crumbs; strew with bits of butter, and bake until done and a nice brown. Serve hot or cold. This is nice for lunch or an early tea. FRIED APPLES—No. 822. 1 quart acid apples, lard to fry, 4 tablespoons sugar, or 1 gill good molasses. To Cook : Peel and slice the apples; put the lard in a frying-pan, and heat it over the fire; when hot add the apples; cover the pan, and cook until the apples are tender, turning them frequently; uncover, add the sugar or molasses, and cook until brown. Serve hot. STEAMED APPLES—No. 823. Wipe, core, and peel the apples. Put into a steamer and cook until soft. Pass through a colander or a “Henis vegetable press.” When done they should be perfectly smooth. Serve with sugar, nutmeg, and cream, or milk. Steaming is the best way for pre- paring apples for pies, floats, etc. CODDLED APPLES—No. 824. Peel and core the apples; put them in a kettle; cover the bottom of the kettle with water deep enough to prevent the apples scorching. Cover the kettle, and put it on a part of the stove where it is not very hot. Cook until soft; press through a colander until perfectly smooth and free of lumps. Serve cold with sugar, nutmeg, cream, or milk; or use for pies, floats, etc. Drain off any water remaining in the kettle before passing through the colander. The apples should be dry. To STEW APPLES—No. 825. 1 pound fruit, 1 pint water, pound sugar, 1 lemon, 1 ginger root (green). To Cook: Peel, core, and quarter the apples. Drop in cold water as you prepare them. Mix the sugar and water together. Put in 18 274 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. a kettle over the fire; when it boils drop in the apples, the ginger root (scraped and sliced), the lemon sliced with the seed removed. Let all stew together gently until the apples are clear. Lift out the apples without breaking; spread them on a dish. Cook the syrup until it thickens. When thick enough put the apples in a jar, pour the syrup over, and serve cold. STEWED APPLES—No. 826. 1 dozen apples, pound sugar, yellow rind of 1 orange, yellow rind of 1 lemon, 3 pints cold water. To Cook: Peel and core the apples; drop them in cold water to prevent their turning dark. Put into a saucepan the water, sugar, orange and lemon peel. Boil for fifteen minutes, then drop in the apples. Cook slowly until the apples are clear but not soft enough to break. Lift out carefully and put on dishes to cool. Cook the syrup until it begins to thicken (when it drops heavily from the spoon). Put the apples in a jar; scatter through them a little of the orange and lemon peel; pour over the syrup while hiot. Stand aside to cool. Serve cold with rich cream or custard. STEWED Pears—No. 827. Peel the pears and scrape the stems. To each dozen medium- sized pears allow one quart of water and one-quarter pound sugar. Put the pears and water together in a saucepan. When the pears are soft enough to pierce with a straw add the sugar, and stew until they are clear. Serve cold. PEARS STEWED WITH GINGER Root-No. 828. 1 quart pears, 3 pints cold water, 1 pound sugar, 3 ounces green ginger root, To Cook : Peel the pears and scrape the stems; throw them into cold water to prevent their turning dark. Put into a kettle the water, the scraped and sliced ginger root, and the pears. Cook slowly until the pears can be pierced with a straw; add the sugar, and cook until the syrup thickens, stirring occasionally to prevent scorching; serve cold, with cream or milk. One and one-half tea- spoons of whole cloves may be substituted for ginger. APPLE FLOAT—No. 829. Whites of 3 eggs, 1 quart apples (steamed), 3 large tablespoons sugar, seasoning to taste. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 275 To Make: Steam the apples by directions (No. 823); pass them through a colander, and beat until very smooth; whip the whites of the eggs with the sugar very stiff; put in the seasoning, and whip the eggs and apples together until well mixed and perfectly smooth. Drop on dishes of rich cream or custard, or the float may be served by itself with milk to pour over it if cream is not obtainable. Lemon juice, vanilla, or nutmeg makes a nice seasoning for the float. Friar's OMELET-No. 830. 12 apples, 2 ounces butter, 4 eggs, 3 ounces bread crumbs, 1 large or 1 small nutmeg, pound sugar. To Make : Steam the apples and pass them through a colander; stir in the butter, and add the grated nutmeg while hot. Separate the eggs; beat both whites and yolks very light; beat the sugar into the yolks; add the prepared apples. Give the whole a good beating before adding the whites. Butter a pudding dish; strew the bottom and sides with bread crumbs; fill the dish with the mixture; strew bread crumbs over the top; dot with little bits of butter, and put in a moderate oven to bake until a nice, light brown. Serve hot or cold. BAKED PEARS—No. 831. Wash the pears and scrape the stems; then put into a baking- pan and cook exactly as directed for apples (No. 817). BAKED PEARS—No. 8311. Peel the pears and scrape the stems. Stand them in an earthen baking-dish; pour around them a cup of boiling water; add two tablespoons of sugar; cover with another dish, and bake slowly until the pears are tender, basting several times. When done, stand aside to cool. When cold, lift them carefully into a pretty glass dish. Pour over the liquor, and serve with cream or milk. Stewed Peaches—No. 832. Peel the peaches, and weigh to each pound of fruit one-quarter of a pound of sugar. Put the sugar in a kettle with one-half pint of water; set on the fire, being careful not to let the sugar scorch. When the sugar is dissolved put in the peaches, and stew gently until they are tender. When done take them out; spread on a flat dish, and cook the syrup until it thickens slightly. Put the peaches 276 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. in a bowl or jar, and pour the syrup over while hot; serve cold with cream or milk. The peaches may be divided and the stones taken out. If this is done use less sugar. Peaches not ripe enough to serve raw may be used in this way. STEWED PLUMS (PURPLE OR GREEN GAGE)—No. 833. Wash and prick the plums. Allow three ounces of sugar and one gill of water to each pound of plums. Stew as directed for peaches (No, 832). These eaten cold with cream or rich milk are delicious. The best of all stewed fruit. Wild Red PLUMS, STEWED-No. 834. Stew exactly as directed for purple or green gage (No. 833), increasing the quantity of sugar to taste. These, if ripe and prop- erly stewed, are very nice. STEWED APRICOTS—No. 835. Ripe apricots are stewed exactly like purple plums (No. 833). The unripe ones, which are used and much esteemed for tarts, require more sugar. STEWED CHERRIES—No. 836. Seed the cherries before weighing them (of course they are washed before seeding). If sweet cherries, allow two ounces of sugar to each pound; if morello, three-quarters of a pound to each pound of fruit. Put cherries and sugar together in a kettle with the juice which has dropped from the cherries while seeding. Stew gently until done. Serve cold. STEWED GOOSEBERRIES—No. 837. Stem and top the berries. Wash them; and put in a porcelain kettle with one pint of water. Cover the kettle and stew ten min- utes. Add one and one-quarter pounds of sugar, and put on a cooler part of the stove. Cook slowly until done (about one-half hour). Serve cold. If the gooseberries are ripe, use less sugar. STEWED CRANBERRIES—No. 838. Stew by directions for gooseberries (No. 837), using one (pound instead of one and a quarter pounds of sugar. STEWED BLACKBERRIES—No. 839. Wash and pick over the blackberries. To each pound of fruit allow three ounces of sugar and one-half gill of water. Stew gently until done. Serve cold. Creams, Custards, Etc. BLANC MANGE, CREAMS (NOT FROZEN), CUSTARDS, BAVARIAN CREAMS. In breaking eggs use a small bowl or cup to break them over so that if you get a bad one it will not spoil all. BOILED CUSTARD—No. 851. 1 quart milk, 4 tablespoons sugar, 3 or 4 eggs, a pinch of salt, seasoning to taste. To Mix : Put the milk on to boil; beat the sugar into the yolks of the eggs, using the whites for some other purpose; beat together until very light. When the milk boils, stir it into the eggs very gradually, adding just a little at a time until the eggs are thin enough to pour back into the kettle. Return to the fire, and stir constantly until the custard thickens to the proper consistency; pour out and stir ten or fifteen minutes aſter. When cool, season to taste, unless you have already boiled the seasoning with the milk. BAKED CUSTARD—No. 852. 1 quart milk, 4 tablespoons sugar, 3 or 4 eggs, a pinch of salt, seasoning to taste. To Make: Instead of boiling the milk, stir it cold into the well- beaten yolks and sugar. Mix all thoroughly; put into dishes or cups, and grate over nutmeg, if liked; put the cups in a pan of cold water in a moderate oven, and bake. When firm in the middle, take out of the oven, and serve hot or cold. Fancy custards are made by the addition of chocolate, cocoanut, etc., to plain custard. Proportion by directions. Custards may be steamed instead of baked. CHOCOLATE CUSTARD-No. 853. 3 pints milk, 4 ounces chocolate, 6 eggs, 6 ounces sugar, 2 teaspoons extract vanilla. 280 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. To Make: Crack the chocolate and put it on with the milk in a double boiler. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the sugar together until light. When the chocolate is dissolved and the milk boiling strain it very slowly on the eggs, stirring constantly. Return to the double boiler and stir over the fire until the proper consistency. Take from the fire and leave to cool. Whip the whites of the eggs with pulverized sugar until very stiff. When the custard is cold stir in the vanilla, put in a glass dish or in individual dishes. Dot over the top with the white of egg and serve very cold. If pre- ferred, this custard may be baked; in that case do not boil the milk, simply heat enough to dissolve the chocolate. Cocoanut CUSTARD-No. 854. 3 pints milk, 5 eggs, 2 ounces pulverized sugar, 6 ounces sugar, 6 ounces grated cocoanut, extract bitter almond to taste. To Make: With the yolks of the eggs, milk, and sugar make a plain custard (No. 851); while hot pour it over four ounces of the grated cocoanut; stir until the custard cools. Set on ice to get very cold. Beat up the whites of the eggs with the pulverized sugar and the remainder of the cocoanut; when ready to serve stir in the bitter almond (if liked); heap the meringue on top of the dish; brown by holding over it a heated salamander, or, if you have no salamander, a flat iron or stove lid heated very hot. When a pretty, light brown serve. If the browning is quickly done it will not heat the custard. ALMOND CUSTARD–No. 855. 3 pints milk, 5 eggs, 4 ounces pulverized sugar, 6 ounces sugar, 1 gill sherry wine, 6 ounces shelled almonds, a little rose water, 1} tablespoons currant jelly. To Make : Blanch almonds by directions No. 573; split one ounce of them and set aside. Put the remainder of the almonds in a mar- ble or wedgewood mortar with the rose water; pound them until fine enough to mix with the custard. With the yolks of the eggs, milk, and sugar make a custard (No. 851). While warm pour over the pounded almonds and stir until well mixed, and cool. Set on ice to keep cool while preparing the meringue. Beat the whites of the eggs with the pulverized sugar and wine to a stiff meringue. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 283 To Make: Slice the cake and line one large glass dish or a num- ber of individual dishes. Pour over each piece of cake a little wine; then pour on the custard. Beat up the whites of the eggs and the pulverized sugar to a very stiff froth; season with the vanilla and pour in enough coloring to make the meringue a pretty pink. Pile the meringue on the dish or dishes just before serving. Tipsy Cake-No. 864. Slice a round sponge cake into three parts, like layer cake; pour wine over each division, and spread it with currant jelly; put on one layer, after sticking some blanched almonds in the lower division. Stick some almonds in the second layer; put on the top, stick that with almonds, and pour over a rich custard. CHARLOTTE Russe-No. 865. 1 ounce gelatine, 1 quart cream, 2 gills powdered sugar, $ pint milk, 2 teaspoons extract vanilla, pound lady fingers. To Make: Cover the gelatine with the cold milk, and let it soak twenty minutes; at the end of that time put the bowl containing the gelatine and milk over a kettle of hot water and dissolve the gela- tine, stirring frequently. Put the cream (which must be very cold) in a whip-churn or a keystone beater. Whip by directions given with the beater or churn. As the whip rises lift it lightly from the top, and lay it on a sieve to drain. Split the lady fingers, and line one large or as many small dishes as you like with them. Put the whipped cream in a bowl or basin; put this on cracked ice, unless the weather is very cold. Add the soaked gelatine and milk, after straining it, the sugar and vanilla. Begin to stir from the bottom and sides, and continue to do so until the mixture begins to thicken. Stir very gently and carefully. When thick enough, pour into the lined dishes, and set on ice or in a cold place to harden. If you have no whip, churn, or keystone beater, whip the cream in any way convenient. CHARLOTTE Russe-No. 866. 1 pint cream, 4 eggs, 1 ounce gelatine, 1 pound sugar, 1 pint milk, 1 teaspoon extract vanilla, 1 gill sherry, 1 pound lady fingers. 284 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. To Make: Dissolve the gelatine in the cold milk as directed (No. 865). Beat the yolks of the eggs and the sugar until very light; when the gelatine is dissolved strain into the yolks and beat until thoroughly mixed; add the vanilla and wine; stir all well together and set aside to cool; add the whites of two of the eggs to the cream, which should be thoroughly chilled; whip as directed (No. 865), and add to the eggs, etc., while they are still a little warm. Stir until the mixture begins to thicken. Pour into dishes lined with the lady fingers. Set on ice or in a cold place to harden. CHARLOTTE RUSSE-No. 867. 2 ounces gelatine, 2 teaspoons extract vanilla, 6 ounces sugar, 2 eggs, 1 gill sherry, 1 quart cream, 1 quart milk, 1 medium-sized sponge cake. To Make : Dissolve the gelatine in the milk as directed (No. 865). Beat the yolks of the eggs with the sugar until very light; strain into this the gelatine and milk, the vanilla and wine. Beat until all are thoroughly mixed. Set aside to cool. Add the whites of the eggs to the cream, and whip as directed. Put on the ice enough of the whipped cream to cover the top of the cake, and to lay around it on the dish. Mix the remainder of the whipped cream with the eggs as directed (No. 866). Cut the top from the cake; take out the crumb, and fill the hollow from which the crumb was taken with the charlotte russe mixture; set aside in a cold place until firm. When ready to serve return the top to the cake; heap the whipped cream on top, and put a little wreath of it around the bottom of the cake. It is better to have the cake slightly stale for this purpose. Instead of one large cake small cup cakes may be used in this way. SPANISH CREAM–No. 868. 3 pints milk, 1 ounce gelatine, 2 teaspoons vanilla, 6 ounces sugar, a pinch of salt, yolks of 6 eggs. To Make: Dissolve the gelatine in one pint of the milk, as directed (No. 865). Make a custard of the yolks of the eggs, a quart of milk, and the sugar, by directions No. 851. Cool slightly; season with the vanilla; strain and beat in the gelatine and milk. Give the whole a good beating. Pour into a mould. When firm turn out, surround with whipped cream, sweetened and flavored with sherry wine. INSTRUCTION IN Cooking. 285 ITALIAN CREAM–No. 869. 2 pints cream, 6 ounces sugar, 1 pint milk, juice of 2 lemons, 1) gills sherry wine, 2 ounces gelatine. To Make: Dissolve the gelatine in the milk as directed (No. 865). Strain the juice of the lemons and mix with it the sugar and wine; add this very slowly and gradually to the cream, which should be very cold. Stir constantly. Strain in the gelatine and milk. Give the whole a good beating. Put into a mould, and when firm turn out, surround with rich cream, and serve very cold. BEST ALMOND BLANC MANGE–No. 870. 1 quart rich cream, 1 pint cold milk, 2 ounces gelatine, 1 pound blanched almonds, sugar to taste, 2 teaspoons extract vanilla. To Make: Dissolve the gelatine in the milk as directed (No. 865). Sweeten and season the cream with the vanilla, and whip it to a stiff froth. When the gelatine is thoroughly dissolved, cool it until milk warm; then stir it in the cream very carefully; add the almonds cut into shreds; mix thoroughly, Pour into moulds pre- viously wet with cold water. BLANC MANGE–No. 871. 3 pints milk, I pound almonds, 4 ounces sugar, 1 ounce gelatine. To Make : Put the gelatine to soak in one pint of milk, and let it stand half an hour. Boil the quart of milk, and when it boils, strain in the dissolved gelatine; sweeten and stir. Blanch and chop, or beat the almonds; put them in the hot milk, and continue to stir until the mixture stiffens. Dip the moulds in cold water; pour in the blanc mange and keep in a cold place until ready to use. FEATHER BLANC MANGE–No. 872. Make a plain blanc mange without almonds. When cool stir in one-half pint of whipped cream. Mould and serve as any other blanc mange. BLANC MANGE WITH Eggs—No. 873. 1 quart rich boiled custard, 1 ounce gelatine, * pint milk. 286 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. To Make: Dissolve the gelatine in the milk as directed (No. 865); strain into the custard, and stir until it begins to stiffen. Dip the moulds in cold water, and pour the blanc mange in. When firm serve. Corn STARCH BLANC Mange—No. 874. 1 quart milk, 8 even tablespoons corn starch, 11 gills sugar, teaspoon salt. To Make: Put the milk on to boil in a double boiler; mix the corn starch and sugar; add enough water to make of them a smooth paste. Stir this into the milk; when it boils, add the salt and con- tinue to stir until it thickens. Pour into a mould or cups which have been dipped in cold water. When firm turn out and serve with cream sauce (No. 728). ORANGE BLANC MANGE–No. 875. } box gelatine, 1 cup sugar, 5 oranges, 1 pint cream, yolks of 5 eggs, 1 pint milk. To Make : Cover the gelatine with the milk, and let it soak for twenty minutes. Put it in a double boiler, and stir over the fire until it is dissolved. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the sugar together until light; strain the dissolved gelatine into the eggs; return to the double boiler, and stir over the fire a few minutes longer, then turn out to cool. When cold strain in the juice of the oranges, and stir constantly until the mixture begins to thicken. Add the whipped cream; stir very carefully until well mixed. Wet a mould with cold water; put in the mixture, and leave in a cold place or on ice until firm. Serve with cream around it. FRUIT BAVARIAN CREAM–No. 876. 1 pint fresh or canned fruit, 1 box gelatine, pint cream, pint milk, sugar to taste. To Make : Put the gelatine and milk in a double boiler and dis- solve; press the fruit through a colander; strain into it the gelatine, and sweeten to taste; stir until it thickens, then add whipped cream. Put into a mould to harden, and serve very cold. STRAWBERRY CREAM–No. 877. 1 pint strawberry juice, 1 cup sugar, } box gelatine, 1 pint cream, cold milk enough to cover gelatine. 1 pint INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 287 To Make: Cover the gelatine with the milk and soak twenty min- utes. Add the sugar to the strawberrry juice and stir until dissolved; put the gelatine and milk in a double boiler and dissolve it; strain it into the strawberry juice; place it on ice, and stir until it begins to thicken; whip the cream and stir it carefully into the juice. Dip the moulds in cold water, pour in the cream, and leave to harden. Serve with plain or whipped cream around the base of the mould. RASPBERRY CREAM–No. 8771. Make exactly as directed for strawberry cream, not using quite so much sugar. CHOCOLATE Moss—No. 878. 1 ounce gelatine, 1 cup powdered sugar, 6 ounces grated chocolate, whites of 6 eggs, 1 pound sponge cake (lady's 1 pint boiling water, fingers), vanilla to season. To Make: Cover the gelatine with cold water. Put the chocolate with the boiling water in a saucepan on the fire, add the sugar, and stir until dissolved. Dissolve the gelatine and strain it into the boil- ing water, etc. Boil and stir until the chocolate, etc., are perfectly smooth and commencing to thicken. Take from the fire and cool. Whip the whites of the eggs to a very stiff froth. Stir the gelatine and chocolate until it begins to form, then whip in very lightly the whites of the eggs. Season with vanilla. Line a dish with lady fingers as for charlotte russe, pile the chocolate mixture in the lined dish, and put on ice until cold. Serve with whipped cream. Violet Mousse-No. 879. 1 quart cream, 2 ounces gelatine, 1 pint milk, whites of 2 eggs, 1 cup powdered sugar, vanilla to season. pound marrons glacés, pound candied violets. To Make: Cover the gelatine with the milk; put it over a kettle of hot water and dissolve. Add the whites of the eggs to the cream, and whip very stiff. Season with vanilla; strain the gelatine into the whipped cream, and mix as directed for charlotte russe (No. 865). Break the marrons glacés into small pieces; stir them and the violets lightly into the mixture when it is just about to congeal. Put into a fancy mould; cover tightly, and bury in ice. Turn out of the mould; put whipped cream around, and serve icy cold. It may be colored violet, if liked. It should remain in ice three or four hours before serving. Jellies. Calf's Foot JELLY-No. 880. 1 pound sugar, 1 pint wine, 4 calves feet, 6 quarts cold water, 2-inch stick cinnamon, juice of 4 lemons, 12 cloves, 2 blades of mace, whites and shells of 2 eggs. To Make: Clean the feet; soak, wash, and scrub them well in cold water. Scrape away any dark places on the feet. Put them in a soup kettle with cold water and simmer slowly for eight hours, or until the water is reduced to two quarts. When done strain the liquid in a bowl, and put it immediately in a cold place. When firm remove all fat from the top; take from the bowl carefully, without touching the sediment in the bottom; measure and put it in a kettle on the fire. Add the sugar, spices, lemon juice, the crushed shells, and beaten whites of the eggs; mix all well together and boil hard, without stirring, twenty minutes; throw in a gill of cold water; let it come again to a boil, then move it to a cooler part of the stove and keep it closely covered for half an hour. If you have a jelly strainer, strain the jelly through it; if not, wring a flannel jelly bag out of boiling water and hang it where a bowl can be placed under it; pour the jelly into the bag carefully and let it drip slowly; add the wine just before pouring the jelly into the bag; do not squeeze the bag as this clouds the jelly. WINE JELLY—No. 881. 1 gallon water, 4 ounces gelatine, 21 pounds sugar, 6 lemons, 11 quarts wine, 5 blades of mace, whites and shells of 6 eggs, 3 sticks of cinnamon. To Make : Put the gelatine in the water (which must be hot), and let it stand until it cools. Beat the whites, and stir them in with the shells, thin rind of three of the lemons, sugar, spices, and juice of all six lemons. Put over the fire, and let it come to a boil. As soon as it boils up pour in the wine, strain, and set aside to congeal. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 289 BOILED WINE JELLY-No. 882. 2 ounces gelatine, 1 pint cold water, 1 pint wine, 3 pints boiling water, 14 pounds sugar, juice and rind of 3 lemons, 1 stick cinnamon, 8 cloves, 1 teaspoon allspice, shells and whites of 3 eggs. To Make : Pour the cold water over the gelatine, and let it soak one-half hour; add the boiling water, sugar, spices, juice and thin rinds of the lemons, the crushed shells and beaten whites of the eggs. Mix all together; put in a kettle over the fire, and boil until the egg shell, etc., boil to one side ; remove these with a ladle. Wring a flannel bag out of boiling water, pour the jelly in and strain, first adding the wine. Do not shake or squeeze the bag, as this muddies the jelly. Put immediately into a cold place. Put in moulds or not, as preferred. WINE JELLY WITHOUT BOILING–No. 883. 1 ounce Boston crystal gelatine, 14 pounds sugar, 1) pints sherry wine, 1 pint cold water, yellow rind and juice of 3 3 pints boiling water, lemons, 1 stick cinnamon, 3 blades of mace. To Make: Pour the cold water over the gelatine, and let it soak for half an hour; at the end of that time stir the gelatine into the boiling water. Stir until dissolved; add the sugar and lemon juice, having boiled the lemon peel and spices in the water. Mix altogether; cover closely, and leave to steep until the jelly is almost cold; then strain through a flannel bag, wrung out of boiling water, and set aside to harden. LEMON JELLY—No. 884. 1 box gelatine, 1 pound sugar, 3 large lemons, 1 quart boiling water, 1 pint cold water. To Make : Peel the lemons very thin; boil the rind in the water; cover the gelatine with the cold water, and soak for one-half hour; then add it to the boiling water, sugar, and lemon juice. Leave the lemon peel in the jelly until it is strained. Cover closely, and when nearly cold, strain through a flannel bag, wrung out of boiling water. Put in moulds or not, as preferred. 19 Ice Creams and Water-Ices. How to Freeze Ice Cream AND WATER-Ices—No. 890. If you have a patent freezer (“The Gem” is the best I know of) follow exactly the directions which come with the freezer. If you have none but a common freezer, put the ice in a strong bag, and with a heavy mallet or ax break it into small pieces, not larger than a large almond. When fine enough empty into a tub, put the freezer in the bucket with the top on the freezer. Have ready some rock salt. Put around the freezer first a layer of pounded ice, then one of salt, and so continue until the freezer bucket is full, but not full enough to cover the top of the freezer; let the ice stop just below. Press the ice and salt down a little; wipe off the top and exposed sides of the freezer with a clean cloth, so that none of the salt can get inside when the freezer is opened. Take off the top of the freezer, pour in the cream or ice, replace the top, pack the ice and salt around and upon it, packing it down hard on top. Cover all with several thicknesses of blanket or woolen cloth; set it out of the draught, and leave for one hour or more; then unwrap the bucket; wipe very carefully the top and exposed sides of the freezer; take off the top; scrape with a sharp, long knife all the cream from the sides of the freezer; work and mix this into the centre; then with a long spoon or paddle beat until the cream is a smooth, half congealed paste. Put on the top, draw off the water from the freezer bucket, pack the freezer in more ice and salt, and cover again with the blanket or cloth. The freezer must be buried in the ice and kept so for three or four hours. If the water accumu- lates so as to press up the freezer, draw it off; but do not open the freezer. In two hours more you may take it from the ice; wash off all salt; wipe dry, especially around the mouth of the freezer where the lid fits on. Wipe with a cloth wrung out of boiling water, and turn out. If properly managed the ice cream will be firm and smooth. To Mould ICE CREAM–No. 891. If you wish to mould ice cream or serve it in forms, have the mould ready at the time you remove the dasher from the freezer (if INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 293 boil. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the sugar together, add them to the milk as directed (No. 851); cook until the consistency of rich boiled custard, take from the fire, cool, stirring occasionally, add the vanilla. Freeze until firm; stir in the cream, whipped; repack and set aside until time to serve. Instead of the quart of whipped cream a quart of grated cocoanut may be added, and by many persons is considered a great addition. Always taste chocolate cream before freezing to see if sweet enough. CARAMEL ICE CREAM–No. 894. 1 quart cream, 4 ounces caramel (No. 729), 1 quart milk, 1 pound sugar, 1 tablespoon extract vanilla. To Mix : Whip one pint of the cream, and put on ice; mix the milk and remainder of the cream with the sugar and vanilla. Make the caramel as directed (No. 729), and stir it in while hot; stir until dis- solved. Freeze to the consistency of firm sherbet; stir in the whipped cream; close the freezer carefully; repack and stand away until ready to serve. This makes three quarts of ice cream. CARAMEL ICE CREAM–No. 895. 3 quarts rich custard (No. 851), 6 ounces caramel, To Mix: Stir the caramel while hot into the custard; stir until dissolved, and strain, if there should be lumps left. Freeze as directed (No. 890). One grated cocoanut may be added to this. CARAMEL ICE CREAM–No. 896. 3 quarts milk, 1 pint granulated sugar, 9 eggs, pound blanched almonds. To Mix : Make the milk, eggs, and sugar into a custard (No. 851). Let the custard cool; make the brown sugar into caramel by directions No. 729; stir it into the custard as soon as made, being careful to dissolve all lumps; if there should be any strain the custard. Pound or shred the almonds very fine; stir them in, and freeze by directions No. 890. VELVET ICE CREAM–No. 897. 14 ounces gelatine, pint sherry wine, grated rind and juice of 1 lemon, 1 pound sugar, 1 quart cream, 1 pint milk. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 295 smooth. Freeze as directed (No. 890). When cream is not obtain- able for any ice cream new milk is preferred by many persons to a made cream. PISTACHIO ICE CREAM–No. 902. 1 quart cream, pound sugar, pistachio extract to taste, 1 pound shelled pistachio nuts, green fruit coloring enough to color. To Mix: Blanch and pound the nuts. Put half the cream and the sugar in a double boiler, and stir over the fire until dissolved; when cold add the nuts, flavoring, and the remaining cream. Mix well, and stir in enough coloring to make the ice cream a pretty green. Freeze as directed (No. 890). IMITATION PISTACHIO—No. 903. 1 quart cream, 4 pound macaroons, 1 quart rich milk, 1 pound sugar, extract pistachio to season, pound blanched almonds, green fruit coloring to color. To Mix: Prepare the macaroons and nuts as directed (No. 901). Mix in the same way, and freeze as directed (No. 890). In using pistachio extract care must be taken not to get too much, as it is very strong. Miss Julia's Ice CREAM–No. 904. 1 quart jelly (No. 881), i gill sherry wine, 1 quart rich cream, 2 ounces sugar. To Mix: Stir the sugar and wine into the cream; mix well; add the jelly, and whip until the jelly and cream are thoroughly mixed. Freeze as directed (No. 890). This is rather expensive, but very nice, and a relic of by-gone days. FROZEN CHARLOTTE Russe—No. 905. 2 quarts charlotte russe (No. 865), 1 pint whipped cream, 1 large sponge cake (No. 750). To Mix: When the whipped cream is added to the charlotte russe mixture instead of putting it in a mould or dish to harden, freeze it as directed (No. 890). Cut the top from the cake; take out the crumb, leaving a wall about one and one-half or two inches thick. When the charlotte russe is frozen serve it in this cake with the top on or the charlotte russe piled high. Place the whipped cream around the bottom, and serve. 300 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. ROMAN PUNCH-No. 921. Make a very rich lemonade, and add to it spirit to your taste, brandy and rum, one teaspoon of strong green tea, one-half pint currant jelly. Then freeze, but not very hard. ROMAN Punch-No. 922. gallon lemon ice (No. 919), 2 teaspoons extract vanilla, 1 gill maraschino, 1 pint champagne, 1 pint Jamacia rum. To Make: Have the lemon ice frozen very hard; thin it slowly with the champagne, rum, and maraschino; add the vanilla, and beat well from the bottom. Pack and cover the freezer; stand away several hours. It must not be frozen hard when served; it should be rather liquid and frothy, but in a warm, crowded room it soon melts, and unless very hard to begin with it gets too soft before the end of an entertainment. PINEAPPLE ICE-No. 923. Whites of 2 eggs, 13 pounds sugar, 1 large pineapple, 1 quart ice water, juice of 1 lemon. To Make: Peel and grate the pineapple; mix with it the sugar, and let it stand for several hours. At the end of that time strain the pineapple through a muslin, pressing out all the juice; add the juice of the lemon and the water. Whip the whites of the eggs, stir them into the mixture, and freeze as directed (No. 890). Little chips of fresh or canned pineapple may be mixed with this ice, if liked. An Ice of Mixed Fruits-No. 924. 1 pint lemon juice, whites of 4 eggs, 1 quart orange juice, yellow rind of 2 oranges and 2) pounds sugar, 2 lemons, 1 quart water, 2 pineapples. To Make: Peel and grate the pineapples; mix with them half the sugar, and stand aside. Peel the oranges and lemons very thin, and put the peeling on to boil with the remainder of sugar and the water. When cold, strain; add the orange and lemon juice. Press all the juice from the pineapples, and add it also; last, stir in the whites whipped very stiff. Freeze as directed (No. 890), and pack several hours before serving. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 301 STRAWBERRY ICE-No. 925. 1 quart strawberry juice, 11 pounds sugar, 1 quart water, juice of 2 lemons. To Mix: Mix the sugar with the berries, mash slightly, and leave for several hours. Press out all the juice, add the lemon juice and water, and freeze as directed (No. 890). RASPBERRY ICE-No. 926. Make exactly as directed for strawberry (No. 925), except not quite so sweet. STRAWBERRY SHERBET—No. 927. 4 quarts very ripe strawberries, 2 pounds sugar, 1 quart hot water, } box gelatine, 3 large lemons (juice of), * pint water. To Make: Pour the hot water over the strawberries, and let stand until cold; then mash and strain through muslin; add the lemon juice, sugar, and gelatine, which must be dissolved in the half pint of cold water. This makes one gallon. Freeze hard and serve as an ice or, softer, as a sherbet. CHERRY Ice-No. 928. 1 quart cherry juice, 1 pound sugar, 1 pint water. To Mix: Extract the juice; dissolve the sugar in the water, mix with the cherry juice, and freeze as directed (No. 890). Morello cherries are best for this. RED CURRANT ICE-No. 929. Make exactly as directed for cherry ice (No. 928). Sicilian SOUBRET—No. 930. 1 quart orange juice, pound sugar, 1 quart peaches, or 1 can, whites of 2 eggs, 1 tablespoon pulverized sugar, 1 pint ice water. To Mix: Peel and mash the peaches, add to them the sugar, and stir until dissolved. Mix in the orange juice and water. Freeze as directed (No. 890). When firm beat the whites of the eggs and the pulverized sugar into a meringue and beat thoroughly through the soubret. Close the freezer securely and repack. Leave several hours before serving. CIA BRET Sour Pickles. GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR Pickles—No. 932. Always prepare pickles in porcelain lined, granite, or bell metal kettles; never in tin. If a bell metal kettle is used, clean it thor- oughly before using. It is best done in this way: Put it on the fire with a large handful of salt and one-half pint of vinegar. Let this heat, and scour the kettle with it. Scrub until the kettle is bright, then wash with pure boiling water before putting in the vinegar. Do not allow anything to remain in a bell metal kettle after it is taken from the fire. By always cleaning carefully, a metal kettle can be used with perfect safety, but if you have either of the others mentioned they will answer quite as well. The vinegar for green and yellow pickles should be prepared in June and kept in the sun through the summer, the mouth of the jars closely covered and tied up with heavy linen cloths, and a pane of glass laid over the cloth to concentrate the rays of the sun and to protect the vinegar from the rain. It will be necessary to keep a weight of some kind on the glass to keep it from being blown off. In this way the vinegar and spices are prepared to receive the fruit and vegetables when convenient to put them in. For all pickles use the best cider vinegar, and always keep them well covered with it. For pickles which are quickly made, and sweet pickles, it is not necessary to prepare the vinegar beforehand, but they, as well as the others, should be kept covered with vinegar after making and the jars securely tied up with an oil-cloth or board on top.. VINEGAR FOR GREEN Pickle-No. 933. 2 gallons best cider vinegar, 1 pint mustard seed, 4 ounces coriander seed, 4 ounces ginger, 3 ounces black pepper, 3 ounces allspice, 3 ounces long pepper, 1 ounce celery seed, 1 ounce turmeric, 1 ounce mace, 1 double handful horseradish, 1 ounce cloves, 1 handful garlic, 1 ounce nutmeg, 24 pounds best granulated sugar, 3 sliced lemons. 20 306 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. To Mix: Bruise the spices; mix them with the sugar and half the vinegar. Scrape and slice the horseradish, prepare the garlic, and add to the other ingredients. Put into a kettle and scald, not boil. When cold add the rest of the vinegar. Tie up securely, put a pane of glass on top, and keep in the sun. This should be prepared in June. TO PREPARE CUCUMBERS, GHERKINS, STRING BEANS, ETC., FOR Green PICKLE–No. 934. Pack the cucumbers, etc., in stone jars. Prepare and boil a brine strong enough to bear an egg or an Irish potato. Strain it while hot over the vegetables. Put a weight on top so as to keep them well covered with the brine. If this brine is strong enough (and it can be made so by the addition of more salt if there is any evidence of the vegetables becoming soft) the vegetables will keep indefi- nitely, and can be used at any time convenient, but are ready to make into pickle after being in brine one week. Take them from the brine; drain as dry as possible; fill a jar two-thirds full of vege- tables; fill it with cold vinegar (or, if this is too expensive, half vine. gar and half water, but all vinegar is best). Let them remain in the vinegar until enough salt is extracted to make them palatable. If the salt is not sufficiently drawn out at the end of two or three days change and renew the vinegar. When fresh enough for pickle (not to eat) line a kettle with grape or cabbage leaves; put the vegetables in the kettle in layers. Measure one-half teaspoon of powdered alum and divide it so as to sprinkle a little between each layer. Spread some leaves, also, between, and in this way continue until the kettle is two-thirds full. Cover well with plain, cold vinegar; cover the kettle and scald until the pickles are tender and crisp. When done they should be a good green. Drain from the vinegar and drop immediately into the spiced vinegar. Put a weight on top, tie up as before directed, and continue to keep in the sun, unless the season is too far advanced; if this is the case, keep in a bright, sunny window as long as convenient. All green pickles which are to be prepared for the seasoned vinegar are done in this way. There are some quickly-made pickles which require no previous preparation. Cold water may be used to extract the salt from pickles, but those prepared with vinegar as above directed keep much better. 308 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. Oil MANGOES—No. 937. 1 teaspoon salt, 1 ounce celery seed, 1 dozen mangoes, 3 tablespoons olive oil, 1 small white cabbage, 24 pounds brown sugar, 6 onions, 2 gallons vinegar, 2 cups horseradish, 1 cup black pepper, 4 cup ginger, 1 cup allspice, 1 ounce cloves, 1 ounce mace, 2 pints black mustard seed. To Make: Soak the mangoes in brine, strong enough to bear an egg, for three days. Take them out, cut a slit in one side of each mango; soak in fresh water from one to three days, taking them out as soon as the salt is sufficiently extracted. Remove the seed with your finger through the slit; wash perfectly clean; cover with vinegar and water, and scald three days in succession, covering them each time with green cabbage or grape leaves. The same vinegar and water may be used to boil them each time, adding a little more vinegar, if necessary. After the last boiling, fill the mangoes with the following stuffing : Sew them up; put in a jar in layers, sprink- ling two pounds of the sugar between the layers. Cover with cold vinegar; put on a weight to keep the mangoes under the vinegar. Tie up the jar securely, and set in the sun. Filling. Beat the spices, but not very fine; trim the cabbage; peel the onions, and chop both very fine; add to them the salt, sugar, spices, mustard, and celery seed crushed; add lastly, after all are mixed, the olive oil. Work all together until thoroughly mixed, and fill the mangoes. Yellow Peach MANGOES—No. 938. 1 peck large freestone yellow 2 tablespoons brown sugar, peaches, 1 ounce green ginger root, 1 pint small white onions, 1 ounce white mustard seed, 1 gill of olive oil, 1 ounce black mustard seed, 2 ounces turmeric. To Make: Select peaches ripe enough to leave the stone; put them in brine made with one gallon of water and one pint of salt for twenty-four hours. Take out the stones, and return to the brine for six or eight hours; then drain free of brine; put in a jar, and 310 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. Pickled LEMONS—No. 941. Take one dozen lemons and peel them as thin as possible; grate the ends and rub with salt; cover with water and let them stand for ten days; then lay in the sun, turning them every day until the salt begins to crystallize. Put into a jar alternately a layer of lemons and one of garlic, ginger, pepper, and cloves; when the jar is nearly full cover with vinegar and tie up closely. The older they are the better. STUFFED LEMONS—No. 942. Cut a slice from one end of a dozen pickled lemons (No. 942); stuff as directed for bell peppers (No. 940). Replace the end; fasten it on with a string. Fill a jar two-thirds full; cover with vinegar; tie securely. The longer these are kept the better. WALNUT PICKLE—No. 943. The walnuts should be gathered in May, when they are tender enough to pass a needle through. Pour boiling salt and water over them every other day for nine days, leaving them in the salt and water, at the end of that time remove them from the brine and expose them to the air on dishes, turning them occasionally; put them in a jar alternately with layers of black pepper and cloves, ground, and a little garlic, mustard seed, and ground horseradish; cover with cold vinegar. PICKLED ONIONS—No. 944. Peel the onions (which should be white ones and not too large); put them in a brine, that will bear an egg, for four days. Change the brine twice. The last day boil them in the brine for a few minutes. Throw them at once in cold water, and leave for four hours. Pack in a jar, putting in a layer of onions, three blades of mace, three tablespoons of brown sugar, one tablespoon of pepper corns, and one-half teaspoon of cloves between each layer. Pack the jar three-fourths full; fill up with boiling vinegar, and seal up while hot. These will be good in a month, but are improved by being kept. PICKLED MARTINAS—No. 945. 1 gallon martinas, 2 pounds brown sugar, 1 gallon vinegar, * pint crushed allspice, pint shredded horseradish, 1 gill crushed pepper, 1 gill black mustard seed, 4 grated nutmegs, 1 gill white mustard seed, 3 red pepper pods, 1 tablespoon cloves, 6 onions. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 311 To Make: Make a brine strong enough to bear an egg. Keep the martinas in this a week or ten days, then wash them in clear water and put them in plain vinegar to soak out the salt and greenish taste. Leave them in the vinegar until this taste is removed, then lay them out to dry. Add to them the sugar, spices, onions, and horseradish; pour over all one gallon of vinegar. Put on the fire and scald until the martinas are tender. Put into jars and seal while hot. Okra Pickle-No. 946. Select small pods of okra; gash each pod before putting into brine, and make exactly as directed for pickled martinas (No. 945). CUCUMBER PICKLE–No. 947. 2 tablespoons mustard, 1 tablespoon allspice, 2 tablespoons turmeric, 6 onions, 1 gallon cucumbers, 2 tablespoons ground horse- 1 gallon vinegar, radish, 2 pounds brown sugar, 1 teaspoon mace, 1 tablespoon celery seed, 1 teaspoon cloves, vinegar to boil cucumbers. To Make: Bruise the spices and mix them with the sugar; add the gallon of vinegar, and stir over the fire until the sugar is dis- solved; boil twenty minutes. Boil the cucumbers in plain vinegar until tender; squeeze them out and drop into the spiced vinegar while it is hot; when cold add the turmeric, ginger, horseradish, mustard, and onions, skinned and sliced. This pickle is quickly made, convenient to have, and very palatable, but does not keep as well as that made by the old method. Cucumbers for pickle should be small, of uniform size, and nicely shaped. Unless to be stuffed they should never be large. Sour TOMATO PICKLE—No. 948. bushel green tomatoes, 3 red peppers, 6 pints vinegar, 12 onions, 6 cups sugar, 2 teaspoons ginger, 2 teaspoons cinnamon, 2 teaspoons cloves. To Make: Slice the tomatoes; pack in a jar or bowl, sprinkling salt between the layers. Let them stand all night. In the morning peel and chop the onions, drain the tomatoes, and put in the kettle a layer of tomatoes, then a layer of onion, pepper, sugar, and spices, 312 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. alt and so continue until the kettle is two-thirds full. Pour the vinegar over; cook until the tomatoes are tender. Take out of the vinegar carefully so as to keep the pepper and onions mixed through. Con- tinue to boil the vinegar for twenty minutes longer, then pour it over the tomatoes while it is boiling hot. Tie up securely; put a board or oil-cloth on the top, and keep in a dark, cool place. HYDIENE SALAD—No. 949. 1 gallon green chopped cabbage, 4 tablespoons ground mustard * gallon green chopped tomatoes, seed, 6 large onions, chopped, 2 tablespoons salt, gallon best vinegar, 2 tablespoons celery seed, 1 tablespoon cinnamon, 4 tablespoons turmeric, pint green sliced pepper, 2 tablespoons ginger, 2 pounds brown sugar. To Make: Mix the vegetables thoroughly. Put into a large jar a layer of vegetables; sprinkle with salt, then another layer of veg- etables, and so continue until all are used. Let them stand one night, then pour over boiling water. Leave for two hours, then squeeze very dry. To this add all the ingredients; mix well; put in a kettle and boil for thirty minutes. Put into jars; fasten securely, and keep in a dry, cool place. Pickles should be kept in a cool not cold, place, as freezing ruins them. LEESBURG Chowchow—No. 950. 4 pounds brown sugar, 1 cup cinnamon, 2 small boxes of mustard, * pint olive oil, 2 large heads of cabbage, 15 large onions, 1 pint grated horseradish, 25 cucumbers, 1 pound white mustard seed, 1 ounce celery seed, pint small onions, cup ground pepper, } cup turmeric. To Make: Cut the tomatoes, cabbage, cucumbers, and large onions in small pieces, and pack them in salt. Let them stand for one night; drain and put them in vinegar and water to soak for a day; drain again, and mix in the spices; boil the vinegar, and pour over hot; boil the same vinegar for three successive mornings, and pour over hot. The third morning stir into the vinegar the mus- tard, olive oil, and brown sugar. Put into jars; cover closely, and keep in a dry, cool place. Sweet Pickle. Sweet Peach PICKLE–No. 951. 14 pounds peaches, 3 tablespoons beaten mace, 7 pounds sugar, 2 grated nutmegs, 1 teaspoon salt, 3 tablespoons coarsely powdered vinegar to cover the fruit, ginger. To Make : Peel clingstone peaches; put them in a large stone jar in layers, dividing the sugar and spices and sprinkling them between the layers. Fill the jar three-fourths full; pour over vinegar enough to cover the fruit well. Tie up the jar; put a stone cover or a plate on top. Put the jar in an iron pot of cold water; set the pot on the fire, and boil until the peaches are soft enough to be penetrated with a straw; take from the fire; add more vinegar, if necessary; close tightly while hot, and keep in a cool, dry place. PICKLED PEARS—No. 952. Make exactly by directions for peaches (No. 951). PICKLED DAMSONS—No. 953. 4 blades of mace, 1 teaspoon whole cloves, 1 pound damsons, 1 gill vinegar, pound sugar, 4-inch stick cinnamon. To Make : Wash and prick the damsons; put them in a jar. Scald the vinegar, sugar, and spices together; pour over the fruit, and let them stand a day. Then scald all together; leave them another day; pour off the syrup and scald it, and pour it over the damsons. Fasten the jars securely, and keep in a dark, cool place. SWEET CANTALOUPE PICKLE–No. 954. 5 pounds ripe cantaloupe, 1 ounce stick cinnamon, } ounce cloves, 1 ounce allspice, 2 pounds brown sugar, 1 ounce mace, vinegar. To Make: Peel the cantaloupe, take out the seed, cut in slices, and cover with cold vinegar; let it stand three days; put it on to boil in the same vinegar, with the sugar and spices; boil until the fruit is clear, then leave until cold. Put in jars and cover closely. 316 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. To Make: Beat the spices fine; add all the ingredients except the vinegar to the tomatoes. Simmer slowly over the fire for four hours. Pass through a wire sieve, add the vinegar, mix well, bottle, and seal. HORSERADISH VINEGAR-No. 961. Boil one quart of the best vinegar, and pour it over four ounces scraped horseradish. Let it stand one week; then strain off and renew the horseradish; add the same vinegar cold. Let it stand another week, strain and seal in bottles. MUSHROOM Catsup— No. 962. Use freshly-gathered mushrooms. Wipe them carefully with a damp cloth; put a layer of mushrooms in the bottom of a bowl, and sprinkle well with salt, and so continue until the bowl is full; cover, and put aside in a warm place for twenty-four hours; then mash, and strain through a coarse cloth. To every quart of this liquor add one ounce of pepper corns, one ounce whole allspice, one-half ounce sliced ginger root, one dozen whole cloves, and three blades of mace. Boil three-quarters of an hour, take from the fire, and cool. When cold strain and bottle, cork tightly, and seal. Cold Tomato Catsup-No. 963. Peel and chop very fine two quarts of ripe tomatoes; drain and add to them one gill grated horseradish, one gill salt, two gills of black and white mustard seed, two tablespoons black pepper, two teaspoons celery seed, and one pint of vinegar. Mix all well to- gether, bottle, and seal. Preserves. PRESERVES—No. 964. For making preserves use a porcelain lined or bell metal kettle. If you use the metal kettle clean as directed (No. 932) before putting anything in it. Use the best granulated sugar, and select ripe, sound fruit. Nice preserves cannot be made with indifferent sugar and unripe or unsound fruit. It is best to preserve fruit in small quantities, if possible, and put it in small jars unless the family is very large. Preserves should be kept in a dark, cool, but dry place. Before beginning to preserve have the jars and tops you intend using scalded and sunned until perfectly sweet, the elastics in place if they are to be used, also a ladle, a can holder, and an open funnel to fill the jars with, and a dish or bowl to set them in while filling, a pan and mop for washing them and clean cloths for wiping dry, some labels and mucilage, so that when the jars of preserves pass from your hands they will be ready to go on the shelves which should also be ready to receive them. Having prepared everything for your work it should be accom- plished without hurry or confusion. TO PRESERVE STRAWBERRIES WITHOUT COOKING–No. 965. Spread the fruit on a broad dish and sprinkle thickly with sugar; protect with a net or coarse muslin, and set in the sun till the juices form a thick syrup. Put in tumblers, cover, and fasten up securely. Keep in the sun as long as convenient. STRAWBERRY PRESERVES (WHOLE)—No. 966. 1 pound fruit, 1 pound sugar, pint water. To Make: Mix sugar and water; put on the fire and stir until the sugar is dissolved; boil to a thick syrup. When it is cold put in the berries, and let them stand a night. Drain and spread them on dishes, and boil the syrup again until thick and clear; put the fruit in and put immediately in jars. Seal and keep in the hot sun for three days. Keep in a cool, dark place. For this preserve select large, firm berries. 318 INSTRUCTION IN Cooking. STRAWBERRY PRESERVES—No. 967. 10 pounds fruit, 1 quart water, 10 pounds sugar. To Make: Cap the berries, and iſ very gritty wash them by dip- ping in cold water; mix the sugar and water together in a kettle over the fire until the sugar is dissolved. Cook until the syrup begins to thicken slightly; put in the berries, free of water, and let them cook twenty minutes. Take them out with a perforated dipper; spread on flat dishes. Skim the syrup, if necessary, and let it cook until as thick as strained honey. Return the berries to the kettle carefully, so as not to break them. Let them stew until clear and plump. Dip them out again with a perforated dipper; spread and cool them. Continue to cook the syrup until almost a jelly. When the syrup is done, put the berries in jars; pour over the hot syrup, which should have been skimmed as long as necessary. Seal the jars while hot, and keep in a cool, dry place. STRAWBERRY JAM–No. 968. 8 pounds fruit, 7 pounds sugar. To Make : Cap the berries, and, if necessary, wash them; put them in a kettle, and stand over a moderate fire until the juice flows freely; add the sugar, and stir it in. Cook for one-half hour (from the time of beginning to boil), stirring frequently. When clear and thick steam the jars, put in the jam, and seal while hot. Keep in a dark, cool place. If to be used for puffs cook until very thick. If the berries are very acid one pound of sugar to a pound of fruit had best be used. Small berries will answer for this pre- serve. RASPBERRY PRESERVES—No. 969. Make exactly as directed for strawberry preserves (No. 967). RASPBERRY JAM–No. 970. Make exactly as directed for strawberry jam (No. 968). BLACKBERRY PRESERVES—No. 971. Make exactly as directed for strawberry preserves (No. 967), ex- cept use one pound less sugar. BLACKBERRY JAM–No. 972. Make exactly as directed for strawberry jam (No. 968), except put one pound less sugar. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 319 CHERRY PRESERVES—No. 973. Wash and seed the cherries, being careful to save every drop of juice. For this purpose a cherry seeder is valuable. Weigh one pound of sugar to each pound of fruit (after seeding). Put the cherries in a kettle over the fire, and warm until the juice begins to flow freely; then stir in, very gradually and gently, the sugar. Cook until the fruit is tender and clear, and the syrup thick. Put into the jars and seal while hot. Morello and wax cherries are the best for preserving, and the latter much the prettiest, but the morello more palatable to those who like an acid preserve. If sweet cherries are preserved, use one pound less sugar than of fruit. DAMSON PRESERVES—No. 974. Wash, stem, and prick the fruit. Weigh equal quantities of fruit and sugar. Pour on the sugar enough cold water to moisten it; stir over the fire until dissolved; then put in the fruit; stir gently until mixed with the sugar. Cook all together until the fruit is tender. Take it out with a perforated ladle; spread on dishes, and cook the syrup until it is thick and clear, skimming it when nec- essary. Return the damsons to the syrup, and cook ten or fifteen minutes. Through the whole process of preserving, skim off the seed from the top, using a perforated skimmer. Crack a handful of seed, and return the kernels to the kettle; throw away the rest. When done put the preserves into jars, after steaming them. Keep the syrup on the fire until all the jars are three-fourths full of damsons. Pour over the scalding syrup, and seal. PRESERVED GREEN GAGE AND PURPLE Plums—No. 975. Scald the fruit in boiling water until the skins come off easily. Weigh a pound of sugar to each pound of fruit. Lay the plums in the kettle alternately with layers of sugar; pour over any juice that may have drained from the plums; heat slowly to a boil; take out the plums very carefully with a perforated skimmer, draining them well through it, and spread upon broad dishes in the sun. Boil the syrup until thick and clear, skimming it when necessary. Return the plums to the syrup, and boil ten minutes. Take out and spread again until cool and firm. Fill the jars two-thirds full of fruit; pour on the scalding syrup, and seal while hot. Skim off the seed as directed for damsons (No. 974). 322 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. PRESERVED ORANGES—No. 983. Get the rough, thick-skinned oranges; with a very sharp knife pare off the yellow rind as thin as possible; make a small hole in the stem end of the orange and extract every seed with the handle of a small teaspoon. Throw the oranges in weak brine for a day and night; take them out, drain and weigh them; tie up each orange separately in a piece of cheese-cloth and boil in clear water until the oranges can be pierced with a straw (they must not be boiled enough to break in preserving); soak in clear water, changing twice a day till all taste of salt is extracted. Make a syrup, allowing two pounds of sugar to each pound of fruit, and one quart of water to three pounds of sugar; let it boil up once; skim and strain through muslin over the oranges; let them stand two days; add a handful of the yellow rind of the oranges and six blades of mace; return oranges, syrup, and seasoning to the kettle and boil until done. If the oranges get done and clear before the syrup thickens remove them carefully and boil the syrup until rich and thick. Put into large-mouthed jars, fasten secure- ly so as to exclude the air, and they will be perfectly good at the end of two years. ORANGE MARMALADE-No. 984. Peel very thin one dozen large oranges and two lemons. Cut the peeling into chips. Extract the seed from oranges and lemons, and press juice and pulp from the white skins; add this to the peeling, and cover with one quart of cold water. Leave twenty- four hours; then boil until the peeling is tender. Set this mixture aside until the next day. To each pound of it add one and one- quarter pounds of white sugar. Mix well, and boil until the chips of peeling are perfectly clear and the syrup jellies. Put into small jars; seal securely, and keep in a dark, dry place. LEMON PRESERVES—No. 985. 1 dozen fresh lemons, 7 quarts clear water, 7 pounds sugar. To Make: Cut the lemons in thin slices, take out the seed, add the water, and let them stand all night. In the morning put on the fire in a porcelain kettle, and boil until the skins are tender; then add the sugar, and boil until the syrup is thick. Cook quickly, or the fruit will darken. 324 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. GREEN SWEETMEATS—No. 991. After the rinds are carved, soak them for two days in weak brine, and the night before they are to be greened put them in fresh cold water. In the morning wipe them dry and weigh them. Put them in a bell metal kettle; cover with cold water, and throw in a lump of alum the size of a hickory nut to each gallon of water. Cover the kettle closely, and boil until the rinds are green and tender. Throw them into ice water, and soak until all taste of the alum is extracted, changing the water twice a day. Drain them well and wipe dry. Make a syrup of two pounds of sugar and one-half pint of water to each pound of fruit. Let it boil up once, and strain it through muslin while boiling hot over the rinds. Let them stand two days. Season with one ounce of white ginger to each pound of fruit (soak and slice the ginger very thin), four blades of mace, and the yellow rind of a lemon, peeled as thin as paper. Put rinds, syrup, and seasoning together in the kettle, and boil them until the sweetmeats are clear and the syrup very rich and thick. Put in a large-mouthed jar; cover securely so as to exclude the air, and keep in a dark, dry place. Never use grape or any other leaves in greening the rind (nothing but the alum), and be careful to keep the kettle closely covered. WATERMELON CHIPs—No. 992. Take off the green skin and cut the rind in one-half inch blocks. Cover them with salt water for twenty-four hours; then soak in cold water until the salt is extracted; green them as directed for sweetmeats (No. 991); soak in cold water until the taste of alum is extracted. Boil the chips in ginger tea, drain off, and put in a syrup made of one pound of sugar and one gill of water to each pound of rinds. Boil until the chips are tender and clear and the syrup thick and rich. Season with the yellow rind and juice of one lemon to each pound, the rind to be peeled as thin as possible. Put in jars and fasten securely, so as to exclude the air. Yellow SWEETMEATS—No. 993. Take the fully ripe cantaloupes, slice and peel them; put in strong salt and water for two days and nights; then soak in fresh water a day and night, changing the water. Put them in a kettle, cover with cold water, and boil between three and four hours, changing the water once. Take them out and spread on dishes to cool. 326 INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. jars, pour the syrup over, and close securely. Many persons prefer just to scald the peaches in the syrup, and they do look prettier and firmer, but are not so palatable as when cooked a little. BRANDIED Pears—No. 996. Peel the pears and brandy exactly as directed for peaches (No. 995). BRANDIED Plums—No. 997. Prick the plums and brandy exactly as directed for peaches (No. 995), not cooking so much, or merely scalding. BRANDIED CHERRIES—No. 998. Prick the cherries and brandy exactly as directed for peaches (No. 995), only scalding, not cooking at all. Leave the stems on. Large wax cherries are best for this purpose. CANNING FRUIT—No. 999. For canning, select perfectly sound and fresh fruit, and use the best granulated sugar (if sugar is to be used); it is not necessary to the preservation of the fruit, though it is nicer to have it. All fruit is canned in this way, the only difference being in the quantity of sugar used, acid fruit requiring more than sweet. The fruit should not be boiled long enough to destroy its flavor, and if canned and sealed while boiling hot will keep quite as well as if thoroughly cooked. When the fruit is put on the fire, steam and fill the jars with boiling water; stand them in a deep pan, and when the fruit is ready, empty the water in the pan; drain the jar; stand it in the water; put in it a large-mouthed funnel; dip the fruit up in a ladle; pour through the funnel into the jar, filling the jar to overflowing; wipe around the mouth with a wet cloth, then with a dry one; put on the elastic and top; screw it down as tightly as possible, and stand aside in a warm place where no draught can strike it. Leave the jars until perfectly cold, then screw the top again, and put in a dark, cool place, having washed them, if sticky. Examine them every week or two; if the liquid has settled and you see no air bubbles, the fruit is keeping. If there are any signs of fermentation recook and use at once. The same directions given for cleaning the kettle (No. 932) apply in this case. CANNED PEACHES—No. 1000. 1 quart water, 1 pound sugar, 4 pounds peaches. INSTRUCTION IN COOKING. 327 10 Cook: Peel the peaches and throw them into cold water in which you have dissolved one-eighth of a teaspoon of powdered alum. While you are peeling the peaches put the sugar and water in a kettle over the fire, stir until the sugar is dissolved, and let the syrup boil three or four minutes; drain the peaches from the water, drop them into the syrup, and cook until tender enough for a straw to penetrate them. Skim the syrup and can as directed (No. 999); before sealing run a teaspoon around the inside of the mouth of the jar to break any air bubbles, and seal immediately. CANNED APPLES—No. 1001. Can exactly as directed for peaches (No. 1000), adding lemon peel or ginger to flavor. CANNED APPLES FOR PIES, FLOATS, ETC.- No. 1002. Steam as directed (No. 823), pass through a colander, reheat, and can as directed (No. 1000). CANNED PEARS—No. 1003. Can exactly as directed for peaches (No. 1000), except that the pears must be simmered in water about one-half hour before putting into the syrup, unless sliced and very ripe. CANNED QUINCES—No. 1004. Peel and core the quinces; cut them into rings; allow one-half pound of sugar to every pound of quinces. Can as directed for peaches (No. 1000). CANNED Cherries—No. 1005. Stone the cherries, and if acid allow one-half pound of sugar to each pound of fruit; if sweet, one-quarter of a pound. Can as directed for other fruit. CANNED Berries—No. 1006. Put the berries and the sugar together in the kettle without water. To strawberries and raspberries allow one-half pound of sugar, to blackberries one.quarter pound. Can exactly as directed for other fruit. VA. HUNTER & CO.. 629 E. Broad Street, RICHMOND, Books - Fine Stationery, Teachers' Bibles, Pocket Books, Fountain Pens. Wedding Invitations and Visiting Cards Engraved. W. A. SPOTT & SON, V. A. E. SPOTT, Propr. 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Dealer in Staple Fancy Groceries, Foreign Produce, Table Luxuries, WINES AND LIQUORS. FINEST COFFEES Roasted Daily in our Establishment. OUR MOTTO: Strictly Pure Goods at Prices as Low as Consistent with Fair Dealing and Honest Prices. We Guarantee Perfect Satisfaction: If Goods are not as Represented, RETURN THEM. WARNER MOORE, J. H. WARDEN, President. Man'gr and Treas. Home Ice and Coal Co., OFFICE AND YARDS—DOCK STREET, RICHMOND, VA. centru Use Nature's Own Beverage, PURE KENNEBECICE. We have all Sizes of ANTHRACITE COAL, Dry and Perfectly Screened. WEST VIRGINIA SPLINT and STEAM COALS, by the Ton or Car-Load. DRY KINDLING, SAWED and LONG WOOD, either PINE or OAK, at REASONABLE ...PRICES... For Kennebec Ice, or Coal, Telephone 272. MILLER & RHOADS, Foreign and Domestic Dry Goods, Dress Goods, Silks and Velvets, Black Dress Goods and Silks. French Serges, German and French Henriettas, Silk Warp Lansdowne, Broad Cloths. SILKS: Peau de Soi, Satin Duchess, Faille, Drap d'Orr, Armour, Gros Grain, Moire. Imported Hosiery. ... We import our fast black Hosiery direct from Chemnitz, Germany, and warrant our special brands, 584 plain hose for ladies and 1225 ribbed hose for misses-every pair bears our firm trade mark. Housekeepers' Goods. ... This department is stocked the year round with staple, standard goods-by the yard and ready made. SHEETS, all widths; PILLOW CASES, BOLSTERS, WHITE SPREADS, LACE CURTAINS, WINDOW SHADES, PORTIERES, TABLE COVERS. Broad Street, between 5th and 6th Sts., RICHMOND, VIRGINIA. Boston Crystal Gelatine. Have you tried it? If not, why not? It is absolutely the Finest Gelatine made. Clear, Pure, Free from Taste or Odor. Needs no Boiling or Straining. Congeals Quicker and Goes Farther than any other. Highest HONORS AT World's Fair ABOVE ALL OUR COMPETITORS. ONE TRIAL Will Convince You of Its Merit ! It gives me pleasure to recommend the CRYSTAL GELATINE as the cheapest and best Gelatine I have ever used. It congeals in a few hours. I often use it in warm weather. It is very nice in ice cream and is the purest thing of the kind I know, Respectfully, Mrs. L. S. ACRER, Nov. 23, 1894. Masonic Home of Virginia. J. W. ANDERSON & CO., 708 and 710 MAIN STREET, Stove Dealers, Stove Repairers, Cooking Utensils. TINNERS** PLUMBERS. Gas Fixtures, Hard-Wood Mantels, Slate Mantels. Prompt Attention to all Job Work. RICHMOND, VA. CHARLES A. PAGE. HOWARD P. PAGE. INDEPENDENT:ICE:COMPANY, PAGE BROS. Coal, WoodIce, 319 West Broad Street, RIGNMOND, VA. 'Phone 2344. All Orders for Coal,Wood or Ice Promptly and Carefully Filled. F. R. FAIRLAMB Butcher. IOO DEALER IN Beef, Veal s Mutton, Stalls Nos. I and 2, Second Market, 'Phone 117, RICHMOND, - - VIRGINIA. J. A. MORRIS, MANUFACTURER OF FINE Cream, Water Icesi Sherbets CAKES, PASTRIES and FINE CANDIES. Families and Entertainments Supplied at Short Notice. ........... 'PHONE 499. PIN-MONEY - PICKLES. SOLD BY Leading Grocers Everywhere! MRS. E. G. KIDD, RICHMOND, VA. House-keeping and Painting! Every Good House-keeper Requires Proper Finish to the House and Surroundings. WE HAVE.. Materials for Durable, Beautiful and Healthful Finish. FLOOR STAINS, WOOD STAINS, FLOOR POLISH, FURNITURE POLISH, WAX POLISH, WEIGHTED FLOOR POLISHING BRUSHES, VARNISH FOR THE FLOOR AND FOR THE FURNITURE, BATH EN- AMEL, COLORED ENAMEL PAINTS. FLOOR AND HOUSE PAINTS. TURPENTINE, LINSEED OIL, BLACK VARNISH FOR GRATES, HEARTHS, &c. SPONGE AND CHAMOIS SKINS. SOL J. BINSWANGER, 821 B. Broad Street, Richmond, Va. ARTISTS' MATERIALS AND PICTURE FRAMING DEPARTMENT. Good News for House-keepers ! HARRIS HARDWARE AGENTS FOR WE ALSO CARRY Walton Biscuit Machine. NOT A LARGE AND SELECT STOCK OF y House Furnishings of EVERY KIND. With it you can—in three to ten CROCKERY, GLASS-WARE, minutes-prepare dough for deli. L COAL VASES. WIRE DOORS cious beaten Biscuit. Saves labor, ó AND WINDOWS, 5-MINUTE takes less lard and powders. ICE CREAM FREEZERS, Highly endorsed. THE BEST CUTLERY Sent Free on trial. AND SCISSORS A You can't afford to be without it. SPECIALTY. Write for Catalogue. Prices the Lowest, HARRIS HARDWARE CO., 409 E, Broad St., Richmond, Va. GEO. A. HUNDLEY, Staplesso Fancy Groceries IMPORTED AND DOMESTIC AND FINE LIQUORS, 'Phone 380. 528 E. Broad St., Richmond, Va. ... SPECIALTIES: ... Fine Wines and Liquors for Family Use. Fine Teas and Coffees. Pure Olive Oil and Selected Queen Olives. Imported and Domestic Cheeses. California Canned Goods. Smithfield Hams. Plain and Fancy Candles for Teas, &c. SPECIAL ATTENTION TO MAIL ORDERS. The Postal Telegraph-bable bo.'s System ...Is the LARGEST COMPETITIVE SYSTEM EVER MAINTAINED in the United States. = It reaches all important points in the United States and Canada, and connects with the Com- mercial Cable Company to all parts of the World. MAIN OFFICE, 1216 E, Main Street, TELEPHONE 804, BRANCH OFFICE, 525 E. Broad St. RICHMOND, VA HARDWARE. JNO. M. NOLTING, 735 7 735 E. Main Street. 'PAONE 744. HOUSE FURNISHINGS. Fine Ice Cream and Ices, Soda and Mineral Waters, Smokers' Articles, &c. • .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . GIVE US A CALL- J. H. WARE, JR., & CO., 'PHONE 996. 427 E. BROAD STREET. RICHMONDA Cream, Butter and Milk Company, 204 NORTH FOUSHEE STREET. FOR PURE MILK, GREAM AND BUTTER IND J. W. PENNELL, (Successor to H. BALL) - PRACTICAL- Cabinet Maker and Upholsterer, 327 East FRANKLIN STREET, Corner 4th and Franklin Sts. RICHMOND, VA. Furniture Repaired, Upholstered and Pocked for Shipment. JENNINGS & Co. The Virginia Fish, Oyster Game Company, . . . DEALERS IN AND SHIPPERS OF . .. Fine Oysters, Fish, Game and Produce, No. 41742 N. SIXTH ST., SECOND MARKET, 'Phone 989. RICHMOND, VA. BREEDEN, TALLEY & Co., 309 B. Broad St., Richmond, Va. Dealers in Dry Goods, Notions, Dress Trimmings asid Fancy Goods. Complete Lines of Table Damasks, Napkins, Towels, and Fancy Linens for Table Decorations. Estimates furnished for Trousseaux ssd Housekeeping. SPLENDID STOCK. VARIED ASSORTMENT. LOWEST PRICES. Call in Person, or Send for Samples. Your Patronage and Influence Respectfully Solicited. es W.C. SMITH,4 Pleasure and Business Vehicles, Manufacturer of and Dealer in all Styles of AT LOWEST PRICES. REPAIRING DONE. Correspondence Solicited. 314 North Fifth Street, RICHMOND, VA. Rulandine Carbolic Mouth Wash, For Cleaning and Preserving the Teeth, Healing and Hardening Diseased Gums, and imparting a Pleasant Fragrance to the Breath. Its Disinfectant Properties, combined with its Pleasant Taste and Aroma, Commends it wherever used. Recommended and used by LEADING DENTISTS. Price, 35 cents; By Mail, to any Address in the U, S., 45 cents. T. W. CHELF, Pharmacist, Third and Main Sts., RICHMOND, VA. 23 Richmond · Transfer. Company, OFFICE, 901 MAIN STREET. Tickets to all Principal Points in America and Europe. RATES SAME AS AT DEPOTS. Agents on all incoming Trains, who will provide Passengers with Carriages and Coupes to any part of the City; take up Baggage Checks and deliver Baggage promptly to Hotels and Private Residences at Regular Rates. By leaving orders at our Office, Passengers will be called for, Baggage Checks sent to Residence and Baggage Checked to Destination. Pleasure Carriages and Coupés furnished at all hours for Shopping, Riding out, Weddings, &c. A. W. GARBER, President. C. Lumsden & Son, JEWELERS AND OPTICIANS, 781 Main Elegant Sterling Silver Street. RICHMOND, VA. Mrs. L. B. Morris, Fashionable MILLINER. 206 N. Fifth St., (Old Stand of Fourqurean, Price & Co.) Richmond, , Virginia. J. A. GRIGG. C. F. Cross. Grigg & Cross, EVERYTHING IN FOOTWEAR! Old Ladies' Soft Sole, Low Heel, Broad Bottom Shoes. Shoes for Balls, Weddings, &c. 415 E. Broad St., RICHMOND, VA. J. L. Hill Printing Co., 9-11-13 N. 12th STREET, RICHMOND, VA. 'Phone 241. STEEL PLATE Visiting Cards, Wedding Invitations, Reception Cards. Orders by mail or 'phone receive our prompt attention at all times. . . . P. O. Box 843. PUBLISHERS OF RICHMOND BLUE BOOK. ILLUSTRATED SOUTHERN ALMANAC. THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY REFERENCE DEPARTMENT This book is under no circumstances to be taken from the Building form 410