■ ■ ■ I























FRANCATELLI'S G O O IS. .
THE MODERN COOK;
A
PRACTICAL GUIDE TO THE CULINARY ART
ALL ITS BRANCHES,
COMPRISING,
IK ADDITION TO ENGLISH COOKERY, THE MOST APPROVED AND RECHERCHE
SYSTEMS OP FRENCH, ITALIAN, AND GERMAN COOKERY;
ADAPTED AS WELL FOR THE LARGEST ESTABLISHMENTS AS
FOR THE USE OF PRIVATE FAMILIES.
By CHARLES ELME FRANCATELLI,
PUPIL TO THE CELEBRATED CAKEME,
AND LATI MaItRE-D'uOTEL AND CHIEF COOK TO HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN.
FROM THE
NINTH LONDON EDITION,
CAREFULLY REVISED AND CONSIDERABLY- ENLAXOEi).
WITH SIXTY-TWO ILLUSTRATIONS.
Philadelphia:
T. B. PETERSON AND BROTHERS,
306 CHESTNUT STREET.


THE NEW YORK I
PUBLIC LIBRARY
792600 A
. ASTOR, LENOX AND
lTliJ3i^* FOUNDATIONS
H taab L I


TO
THE RIGHT HON. THE EARL OF ERROL
Mr Lord,
The honor conferred on me in being permitted to dedicate the
following pages to your Lordship, presents an opportunity, of which I
gladly avail myself, to express publicly my grateful acknowledgments
for the liberal encouragement and uniform kindness I have ever ex-
perienced^ since I had the good fortune to come under your Lord-
ship's notice.
If my anxious endeavor to produce a useful treatise on the art I
profess, worthy of public favor and of the distinguished patronage I
have received, shall be successful, the satisfaction this will give me
will ever be associated with a grateful recollection of the many facili-
ties afforded me for acquiring additional practical knowledge and ex-
perience, while in Her Majesty's service as Chief Cook and Maitre-
d'Hotel, in which office I had the advantage to act under the liberal
and judicious directions of your Lordship, when Lord Steward of the
Household.
I have the honor to be,
My Lord,
With the greatest respect,
Your Lordship's most obedient and very humble servant,
^ Chaeles Elme Francatelli.
5 (19)





PREFACE TO THE NINTH EDITION.
In introducing the pressnt Edition of The Modern Cook to
the public, I beg to return my thanks for the patronage that has
been awarded to former Editions, by the public at large, as
well as by the profession, of whose approbation I feel most
proud. Indeed, I am so conscious of the value of the good
opinion of these competent judges, that I do not hesitate to
ascribe the steady demand with which the Work has hitherto
been favored to their liberal support.
So gratifying an appreciation of my endeavors has naturally
prompted me to render the present Edition in all respects worthy
of a continuance of their patronage. I have in all cases most
strictly studied economy,—by retrenching, as far as it appeared
to me consistent with propriety, all unnecessary and too expensive
accessories to the more costly kinds of dishes. The whole work
has been entirely revised with scrupulous care and attention;
and upwards of eighty entirely new dishes, principally belonging
to the Second Course department, have been added. I have
also enlarged the glossary of technical terms :—and, in order to
render the Work of easier reference to the public, as well as to
the practitioner,* no trouble has been spared to improve the
Index.
I have nearly doubled the original number of Bills of Fare;
and have added many of dinners served to Her Majesty the
Queen.
(21)


22 PREFACE.
And now, generous and gentle patrons, I once more respect-
fully take my leave of you for a -while; and to you, Gentlemen
of the Public Press, I beg to return my most sincere thanks for
the handsome and kindly manner in which you noticed my
earnest efforts to assist my English brethren to outrival their
hitherto successful foreign competitors for fame in the Culinary
Art.
But T should not do justice to my own feelings if I omitted
on this occasion to offer my special thanks to the Author of the'
admirable little work, entitled "The Art of Dining, or Gastro-
nomy and Gastronomers," for the very flattering terms in which
he has spoken of my professional labors.
0. E. FRANCATELLI.


PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION.
In his present undertaking, the Author's object has been to pro-
duce a treatise which may be useful, not only to cooks themselves, but
also to those who employ them. He has, accordingly, been as sparing
as possible of the use of technical terms, and has endeavored, at the
same time, to be concise as well as explicit in his directions.
Judicious economy being at all times a great desideratum, the
Author has studied to apply its practice in the composition of every
recipe contained in his book. Many dishes are obviously expensive,
and can only be indulged in by the wealthy epicure ;—but even here,
the cost may be reduced by avoiding waste, and by turning to account
ingredients carefully reserved for the purpose by the aid of foresight
and economical habits. In large establishments, when properly con-
ducted, there is, indeed, less relative waste than in the kitchen of a
small private family, under the management of* an ordinary cook.
It is necessary to remark, that throughout this work, the Author
has supposed the various dishes and preparations are required to be
made for a large number of guests, with the usual resources at hand
in a well-appointed kitchen; perfection and economy can only be fully
attained under such circumstances. The variety and quantity of the
ingredients recommended to be used will probably often appear lavish,
therefere, to those whose culinary practice is limited, and who are,
nevertheless, desirous of combining comparative suecess with moderate
means.
For persons so situated, when desirous of indulging occasionally in
dishes of a sumptuous character, no written directions would probably
suffice; the only sure method in such cases is to resort to,professional
aid. But, in the majority of instances, the Author's instructions will
be found generally practicable; common sense, aided by some experience,
will suggest the employment of available substitutes, when costly sauces
and other recherche preparations are directed to be used.
(23)


24 PREFACE.
Simplicity is as essential an element in cookery as it is in other
arts: the Author, therefore, particularly cautions the inexperienced
practitioner from attempting too much. Excess in the quantity and
variety of spices and condiments—the bane of English cookery—is
especially to be guarded against. Nothing vitiates, the palate more
than* a superabundant use of such stimulant. In the preparation of
soups and sauces, this rule must be constantly borne in mind.
In a treatise professing to treat of cookery as an art, by which re-
fined taste is to be gratified rather than a coarse appetite satisfied, it
would be out of place to attempt to translate its rules into the hack-
neyed terms employed in "Guides" and "Oracles" for economical
makeshifts.
Such attempts, too frequently made by English writers on gas-
tronomy, at once betray their origin. The greater part of these au-
thorities are persons who, having neither studied the rudiments nor
practised the art to any extent, take upon themselves to' instruct the
public, not from the fulness of their knowledge, but either as a pecu-
niary resource, or to gratify an idle whim. Need it be wondered at,
while we possess in England a greater abundance of all kinds of food,
generally of far better quality than is to be found elsewhere, that our
cookery, in theory and practice, has become a by-word of ridicule, and
that we should be compelled to have recourse to foreigners, ignorant
for the most part of our tastes and habits, to prepare our feasts?
"They manage these things better in France:" cookery is there con-
sidered as an important art, and its successful endeavors are regarded
with a due appreciation. In Paris its great professors have achieved
an almost historical celebrity, and their school of cookery has become
pre-eminent. This can only be attributed to their assiduous study of
its elementary principles, which, when properly understood, will be
found to conjoin the highest enjoyment with due attention to the
preservation of health.
The palate is as capable and nearly as worthy of education as the
eye and ear.
A large proportion of the dishes contained in this work are quite
new to the public, not merely as regards their names, but as respects
their composition. This will be found to be the case, particularly with
the soups, dressed Fish, Removes, Entrees, Hors-d'oeuvres, and dressed
Vegetables. The second course, moreover, is treated at greater


PREFACE. 25
length, and with more care than has hitherto been the case in English
Cookery Books.
A copious and varied collection of Bills of Fare, adapted to every
season of the year, has been added as an essential accompaniment to
the work. In connection with this subject, the Author ventures to
offer a few suggestions for the consideration of Epicures.
In the first place, the English custom of dividing a grand dinner
into several courses is an error quite at variance with common sense
and convenience. It is a needless complication that necessarily leads
to useless profusion, and much additional trouble. Our neighbors
across the Channel—the best authorities in all gastronomic questions
—allow of two courses only in the largest dinners. With them, Fish
and Hors-d'oeuvres,—such as patties, croquettes, &c, form part of the
First Course, and not a distinct course, as they are considered east of
Temple Bar. The French, too, regard the dessert as a mere delasse-
ment after dinner, intended rather to propitiate than to thwart
digestion.
The great and increasing intercourse between this country and the
Continent, as well as the probable relaxation of the duty on foreign
wines, will tend naturally to extend our use of many kinds especially
appropriate to the dinner-table. On this head, the Author, without
pretending to give any elaborate or detailed instructions respecting
the service of wines at dinner, cannot refrain from alluding to an
injudicious habit, frequently adopted at English tables—that of in-
troducing sweet Champagne in the First Course. This wine, from its
sweetness, naturally counteracts the flavor of savory dishes—there
is a mutual repulsion between them. Madeira, Sherry, and Burgundy
are better suited to the First Course; their stimulating and generous
qualities tending considerably to assist digestion. In France, sweet
Champagne is not introduced until the latter part of the Second
Course: by that time, the palate has become more fit to appreciate
the deficate bouquet of this delicious and exhilarating beverage.
The Author begs further to add, that the ordinary practice in Lon-
don of serviig Turtle and Venison indiscriminately, as mere acces-
sories to recherche dinners, is, in his opinion, most injudicious. Turtle
and Venison being generally reckoned by us as the best of good cheer,
it follows that when they form part of a dinner, the Removes and
Entrees are comparatively neglected. Very light Entrees should only
be served with these; and on such occasions, indeed it would be


26 PREFACE.
preferable to arrange the dinner in the Russian fashion—placing the
dessert upon the table at first, while the whole of the dinner is served
from the side tables. By this means, two advantages are gained: a
less number of dishes are required—especially in the First Course; and
the dinner has a better chance of being 6erved hot—an indispensable
requisite to its due enjoyment. In pursuance of this recommendation,
a series of Bills of Fare, after the Russian mode, has been included
with the others.
A copious Index, together with a Glossary of French terms, will, it
is hoped, augment the utility of the work.
The Author hopes he shall be excused for alluding to himself, and
his pretensions for writing a book of this kind. Although bearing
a foreign name, he is happy in being an Englishman. He received
his professional education in Paris, and acquired a knowledge of his
art in some of the most celebrated cuisines of that capital, and was so
fortunate as to become a pupil of the renowned Careme. Qualified
under such favorable auspices, he has subsequently served—he hopes
with satisfaction to his patrons—some of the most distinguished bons
vivants among the British aristocracy and gentry. He has had the
good fortune to be Chef-de-cuisine to the Earl of Chesterfield; Lord
Kinnaird; and to Sir W. Massey Stanley, Bart., and Rowland Erring-
ton, Esq., at Melton Mowbray ; and he shall ever consider it the great-
est honor to which he could aspire, to have served as Chief Cook and
Maitre-d'H&tel to Her Most Gracious Majesty the Queen.


CONTESTS.
ftlOSSARv.
Common Stock and Stock Sauces.
Grand Sauces: Espagnole, Veloutfi, Bechamel, and Al.iemande.
Special Sauces.
Cold Sauces.
Purees of Vegetarles for garnishing.
Vegetarle Garnishes.
Essences, Gravies, and prepared Savort Butters for finishing Sauces.
Ragouts and Garnishes in general.
Broths and Consommes.
Medicinal Do.
Braizes, Poelrs, Mirepoix, Marinades, and Roux.
Quenelle Forcemeats.
Clear Consomme Soups.
Purees of Vegetarles for Soups.
SOCPS MADE WITH RlCE OR PeARL-BARLET.
Bisques of Crayfish, and other Shellfish Soups.
Fish Soups and Water-souchets.
English Soups.
Foreign National Soups.
Italian Soups.
Panadas and light Soups for Infants, &c.
Dressed Fish.
Removes—Beef. Veal. Lamb. Calves'-heads. Ox-cheek. Pork and
Sncking pig. . Braized Hams. Venison, Red-deer &c. Turkeys and
Capons. Chickens, Goose and Cygnets. Pheasants. Partridges . Meat-
pies. Meat-puddings. Black Game and Grouse.
Bxtbees—Patés cliauds, or raised Pies. Vol-au-veuts and Tourtes. Tim-
bales. Macaroni and Casseroles. Ornamental borders of Potato-paste.
Chartreuses of Vegetables. Forcemeat Chartreuses. Ornamental
croustades, Turbans and Mazarines. Beef. Ox-cheek dressed. Ox-
palates. Ox-piths. Ox-tongues. Mutton. Mutton Cutlets. Scollops.
Carbonades. Fillets. Sheep's Tongues. Sheep's Heads and Kidneys.
Veal. Fricandeaux. Noix, &c. Heart and throat Sweetbreads. Calf's-
ears, feet, liver, and brains. Lamb. Lamb's-head, ears, and feet.
Pork. Venison, Roebuck, and Poultry. Quenelle forcemeat of Fowl.
(27)


28
CONTENTS.'
Pigeons and Ducklings, Quails. Larks. Rabbits. Hares. Pheasants.
Partridges. Boudins, Quenelles, and Soufflees of Partridgos. Wood
cocks and Snipes. Wild-fowl. Ortolans and Wheatears. Dressed fish.
Second Course Roasts—Game, Poultry, Wild-fowl, &o.
Vegetables for,Entremets.
Entremets op Eggs, Macaroni, &o.
Cold Entrees for Ball Suppers, &c. ,
Cold Raised Pies and Preserved Game.
Different kinds of Paste.
VoL-AD-VENT AND ToURTE CASES.
Croustadb and Timbale Cases.
Cakes in General.
Small Pastry,
Fritters.
Iced Puddings and Ornahented Entremets.
Timbales and Cakes of Macaroni, Nouilles, &«■
Souffles.
Puddinos.
Jellies.
Creams.
Mincemeats.
Bills of Far*. 1
Index.


GLOSSARY.
Allemaxde. Reduced or concentrated white velouti Sauci, thickened with
cream and yolks of eggs, and seasoned with nutmeg and lemon-juice.
Angelica is a plant, the tender tubular branches of which, after being pre-
served in syrup, are used for the purpose of decorating entremets, &c.
Bara, a kind of very light plum-cake.
Bechamel is velouti Sauce boiled down with cream in equal parts. Thil
Sauce takes its name from a celebrated cook.
Bisque. A Soup generally made with shell-fish.
Blanch. To parboil: to scald vegetables, &c, in order to remove their
hulls or skins, such as almonds, &c.
Boddin. A delicate kind of eutrie, prepared with quenelle force-meat or mince.
Bochcet (garnished), or faggot, oonsistk of a handful of parsley, six git,en
onions, a small bay-leaf, and a sprig of thyme, neatly tied together with
twine.
Braize, mirrpoix, marinade, poelk, rlanc, are various kinds of compounds
used for imparting flavor to braized meats; and also for keeping Calves '-
Heads, Poultry, &c, white, while they are being braized.
Braizi.no signifies a slow process of simmering or stewing over a smothered
charcoal-tire.
Brioche. A species of light spongy cake, resembling Bath-buns.
Caramrl. Burnt sugar, occasionally used as a make-shift for coloring.
Charlotte consists generally of very thin slices of bread, steeped in clari-
fied butter, and placed in symmetrical order in a plain mould garnished
with fruit or preserve.
Chartrrcse of veortarles. A mixed preparation, consisting of vegetables
symmetrically and tastefully arranged in a plain mould, the interior of
which is garnished with either game, quails, pigeons, larks, fillets, scollops,
tendons, &c.
Charteeuse a la Parisienne, &c. An ornamental entree or side-dish, com-
posed chiefly of quenelle force-meat; the interior being garnished with
ragout*, scollops, &c.
Compote generally means confectioned fruits, preserved in syrup, or apple
and any other kind of fruit jelly; this word is also used to designate oer-
tain savory dishes, prepared with pigeons, quails, or larks, mixed with
peas, or mushrooms, &c.
Consomme. Clear strong broth, much used in the preparation of Soups,
Sauces, &c.
Contise. When small scollops of truffles, red tongue, &c, are inlaid, as
ornaments, by incision in fillets of any kind, they are said to be conthis.
Croqcrttes and Rissoles. A preparation of mince, with a bread-crumbed
coating. These words both signify something crisp.
Croqcantes. A bright mixture of fruit and boiled sugar.
Ceoustades, Patrs-chauds, Tourtes, Timrales, Casseroles of Rice. Various
ornamental pie-cases, made either of paste or prepared rice.
(29)


30 GLOSSARY.
Croutons. Sippets of bread of various sizes and shapes, fried in clarified
butter, and used to garnish salmis, fricassees, dressed vegetables, &c.; they
are also served with certain Soups, chiefly with purees.
Cold Entries. These consist of fricassees, salmis, cutlets, ham, tongue, fillets
of game, poultry, and fish, aspics, salads of poultry, fish, or shell-fish;
Boars'-heads, potted meats, &c. They are appropriate for ball suppers,
public breakfasts, and upon all occasions where a cold collation is served.
Enteees. A conventional term for Side-Dishes, comprising cutlets, fricat-
sies fricandeuux, fillets, scollops, salmis, boudins, sweetbreads, pdtis-chauds,
chartreuses, &c.
Enteemets, or second-course side-dishes, consist of four distinct sorts,
namely, cold entries; dressed vegetables ; scolloped shell-fish and dressed
eggs ; and lastly of the infinitely varied class of sweets, consisting of pud-
dings, yateaux timbales, sweet croquettes, charlottes, croquantes, pastries, jellies,
creams, fritters, &c.
Espagnole and Veloute. The two main Sauces from which all others are
made ; the first is brown and the other white.
Fanchonettes and Florentines. Varieties of small pastry meringned over.
Farce. Is a coarse kind of forcemeat used for raised pies and grating.
Flans, Dahioles, and Mirlitons. Varieties of French cheese-cakes.
Fricandeau and Guenadins consist of the primest parts of veal, or fillets of
poultry, &c, smoothly trimmed, larded, and brightly glazed with a con-
centration of their own liquor; they are served as side-dishes.
Fricassee consists of chickens cut in pieces, and prepared in a white sauce,
with truffles, mushrooms, cocks'-cornbs, &c, as accessories
Gauffrrs. A light spungy sort of biscuit.
Glace. Any thing iced. This word is also sometimes used figuratively, by
French cooks, to signify a smooth glossy surface.
Gratins. A term applied to consolidated soups and sauces; also to certain
dishes of high character, consisting of game, poultry, fish, vegetables, or
macaroni, &c.. improved by great care and finish, through the use of con-
centrated sauces or gravies.
Hors-d'csuvres (Hot). A species of very light entries, such as patties of all
kinds, rissoles, croquettes, scolloped fish, shell-fish, macaroni, poultry, game,
sweetbreads, brains, ox-piths, horli/s of fish, poultry, or game, &c.
Hor3-d'o3uvres (Cold). These should be eaten immediately after the soup
and fish ; they are considered as appetisers, or whets to the appetite, and
consist of sardines, anchovies, tunny, Dutch herrings, savory butters,
oysters, oiled salads.
Jardinierr. A mixed preparation of vegetables, stewed down in their own
sauce.
Luting. A paste made of flour and water, and used for fastening the lids on
to fire-pans when preserving game, &c, in order to prevent evaporation.
Macedoine of vegetables is a jardiniere, with the addition of some kind of
white sauce.
Macedoine of frnit. A kind of jelly.
Madeline. Resembling queen-cake.
Matelotte, a dish of mixed fresh-water fish, sometimes of one kind only, as
Eels.
Meringues. A kind of light trifle.
Mionionnettr Pepper, A preparation from either white or black pepper-
corns; which, after being broken, chopped, or ground coarse, so as to re-
semble mignionnette seed, should be sifted in order to remove the dust.
Nougat. A mixture of almonds and sugar.
NouiLLEg. A kind of vermicelli.
Panes, to bread crumb.


GLOSSARY. 31
Pakurr. Cnletr scollops, croquettes, or any other entrSe that is bread-crumbed.
Pipino. A kind of decoration made of icing used for ornamenting cakes,
pastry stands, small pastry, &o.: it is thus effected :—Take a short funnel
or conically-shaped instrument of tin, and insert the same within a larger-
sized and similarly-shaped paper funnel or cornet, the pointed end of which
must be cut off so as to allow,the tin instrument to protrude: place the
icing or glazing (a mixture of finely-pounded sugar and white of egg
worked into a smooth and firm paste) in the cornet or forcer, the upper
part of which must be completely closed; the glazing is then forced out
at the point by pressure of the thumb on the upper part of the comet.
Pluche, or plushe,,the leaves of parsley, chervil, tarragon, lettuce, or sorrel,
snipped or cut small; these are used mixed or separately, according to
directions.
Profitrolles. A light kind of pastry, creamed inside.
Puree. A kind of pulpy maceration of roasted meats, and of vegetables, or
fruits, finished by being passed through & tammy or sieve.
Qr knkixe. A delicate sort of forcemeat, used in the preparation of entries, &c.
Ragout. A rich compound, consisting of quenelles, mushrooms, truffles, fat
livers, &c, mixed in a rich sauce, and used for garnishing highly-finished
removes and entries.
Reletes or Removes. The top and bottom dishes (as they are designated
in England), serve to replace the soup and fish on ordinary tables. These
usually consist of roast joints, turkeys, capons, highly or plain dressed
fillets, or rolls, &c, of beef, oalves'-heads, &o.
Roirx. A mixture of fresh butter and flour, which, after being baked, is used
for thickening sauces. 1
6almi8. A highly-finished hash, made with game or wild-fowl, out up and
prepared in either a rich gravy or sauce.
8aute. Cutlets, scollops of game, poultry, or fish, &c, lightly fried in butter.
Sodfples. The word souffli means strictly something puffed up, and is gen-
erally applied to a light kind of pudding, served as a remove to second-
course roasts ; it is made with any kind of farinaceous substance, and may
be flavored either with fruits, liqueurs, or essences.
Trifle, a second-course dish, composed of sponge-cake, macaroons, fruit-
jams, custard, whipped cream, brandy, and other liqueurs.
Turrass akd Mazarines. Ornamental entries, made of forcemeats, and fillets
of either game, poultry, or fish.
Vol-au-veht. A figurative expression applied to puff-paste of the lightest
kind.





FRANCATELLI'S MODERN COOK.
COMMON STOCK AND STOCK SAUCES.
1. COMMON STOCK, OR GRAND STOCK FOR GENERAL PURPOSE8.
When about to prepare for the reception of company, it is advis-
able to begin, if there be sufficient time, two days beforehand in
summer, or three days in winter, by getting ready the grand stock—.
an article so essential to all the after preparations, that it may be looked
upon as the basis of operations.
The meat required for this purpose should be sent in the over night
if possible. The quantity to be ordered, must of course depend upon
the extent of the dinner-party, and the number of entries. For a
dinner of twelve entries, two legs of white veal (about forty pounds
weight), the same quantity of gravy beef, and forty pounds of leg of
beef and knuckles of veal, would be required.
First take the legs of veal in hand, and cut out the noix or
frieandeau pieces, which is that part adhering to the udder; set
these pieces apart to be used either for fricandeaux, grenadins, or
noix, for removes or entrees, as the case may be. Cut all the meat
away from the bones, keeping the veal separate from the beef.
Break up the bones, and put them,—together with the inferior pieces
of beef,—into a large stock-pot half full; fill this up with cold water,
set it on the fire to boil; skim it well, garnish it with carrots, turnips,
celery, and leeks; avoid the use of spices or herbs, and use salt spar-
ingly. When the broth has boiled gently for seven hours, strain it
through a broth napkin into large kitchen basins to cool, and place
them in the larder for the next tlay's use.
In connection with this subject, I will now describe the preparation
of the two grand stock sauces, Espagvole and Veloute, as these, being
the basis of the various special sauces used in modern cookery, should,
together with the grand stock, be first attended to.
2. STOCK SAUCES, BROWN AND WHITE *
TffE first thing to be attended to on the following morning is to
"mark off," or prepare the stock sauces, viz. : the Espagnole or brown
sauce, and the Velouti or white sauce, in the following manner:
Take two large stewpans, well tinned and thoroughly clean; spread
* Although great care and watchful attention are requisite in every branch of the
culinary art, the exercise of these qualities is most essential in the preparation of the
grand stock sances. If the first process which these undergo be not successfully effected,
>o subsequent care will remedy the mischief.
2 (33)


34 STOCK SAUCES.
the bottom of each with fresh butter, over which lay about one
pound of lean ham cut in slices; then add the finest pieces of the
veal in equal proportion to each stewpan. In that intended to be
used for the brown sauce put two or three whole wild rabbits (or the
mere carcasses may suffice); put into the stewpan marked for the
white sauce, two old hens, or carcasses of fowls. Pour into each pan
a sufficient quantity of grand stock to reach the upper surface of the
veal; place the pans with their covers on, on brisk fires, aud let them
boil sharply till the broth is nearly reduced to a glaze ; then take them
off the fire immediately, and slacken the stoves, by putting on some
charcoal ashes to decrease thefr heat; after which, replace the pans on
the tire, adding to the brown sauce, one pound of glaze, to be reduced
together with the stock, by which it will acquire a redder hue; it will
also accelerate its progress,—a point of great importance ; for if sauces
or broths remain too long on the fire, the delicacy of their flavor is sure
to be impaired.
As soon as the broth of the white sauce is reduced to the con-
sistency of pale glaze,* fill it up with some grand stock; garnish it
with a good-sized carrot, one onion, four cloves, a blade of mace,
and a garnished fagot or bouquet, made of parsley, green onions,
bV bay-leaf, and thyme, tied together neatly. Set it on the stove to
boil; skim it well, and then place it to simmer gently at the side of
tho stove. Pay strict attention to the brown sauce, in order to pre-
vent the possibility of its being caught by the fire in the least degree.
Such an accident always tends to lessen its nnctuousness. Ascertain
when the brown sauce is sufficiently glazed, by dipping the end of a
knife into it, twirling the handle round in the hand, so as to take up a
quantity of the glaze on the point of the blade; if you can then roll it
into a ball without its sticking to the fingers, and it is of a beautiful
brown-red color, you may proceed to fill it up in exactly the same
manner as described for the white sauce.
About two hours after the above-mentioned operations have been
attended to, pass the broths through napkins into large kitchen
basins. Then pour the roux or thickening into the large stewpans
to be used for mixing each of these sauces; take off all the fat, and
pour the brown broth upon the brown roux, and the white broth
upon the white roux. While the sauces are being mixed they should
be well stirred. When thoroughly mixed, they must be kept suffi-
ciently liquid to enable them (after boiling on the stove-fire, and while
they are simmering on the side) to throw up the whole of the butter
with which the roux was made, together with the skum, by which
means they assume a velvety appearance, and from which the white
sauce takes its name Velouti.
Finally, add a large ladleful of white chicken broth to the white
sauce, and the same quantity of consommi to the brown sauce; let
them clarify for about twenty minutes longer; and then, if sufficiently
reduced, pass them through the tammy cloths into white basins, and
put them away in the larder for future use.
• When time presses, or the veal used for this purpose is not white, the process of
boiling down to a glaze recommended above, may be dispensed with; and, consequently,
the white broth or water added at once. . -


35
SAUCES IN GENERAL.
GRAND SAUCES.
COUI'RISING
Etpagnole,* or Brown Sauce. Cream Btciamel.
Veloutt,* or White Sauce. AUtmande Sauce.
JBichamtl Sauce.
3. ESPAGNOLE, OR BROWN SAUCE.
Lot the stock Espagnole (No. 2) be turned out into a large stew-
pan, adding thereto some essence of mushrooms, and sufficient blond
of veal to enable the sauce to clarify itself; stir it over the fire till it
boils, and then set it down by the side to continue boiling gently.
When the sauce has thoroughly cleared itself, by gentle ebullition, and
assumes a bright velvety smoothness, reduce it over a brisk fire, to the
desired consistency, and then pass it through a tammy for use.
4. WHITE VELOt»TE SAUCE.
To finish this sauce, proceed in every respect the same as for the
Espagnole, substituting white consommi of veal or fowls, for the blond
of veal, in order to clarify it; and the essence of mushrooms must be
white, in order to prevent the sauce from taking a dark hue, contrary
to its special character.
5. BECHAMEL SAUCE.
Divide the Velouti sauce (according to the quantity required) into
three parts; put one-third into a stewpan, and having reduced it, add
thereto a quart (more or less) of boiling cream :—after allowing the.
sauce to boil a few minutes longer, stirring it the whole time, pass it
through the tammy into a basin, or bain-marie,^ for use.
6. CREAM BECHAMEL SAUCE.
Put six ounces of fresh butter into a middle-sized stewpan; add
four ounces of sifted flour, some nutmeg, a few peppercorns, and a
little salt: knead the whole well together; then cut one carrot and one
onion into very thin slices, throw them into the stewpan, and also a
bouquet of parsley, thyme, and half a bay-leaf, tied together; next
moisten these with a quart of white broth and a pint of cream; and
having stirred the sauce over the stove-fire for about half an hour, pass
it through the tammy into a basin for use.
This sauce is not expensive, neither does it require much time
or trouble to make. It is very useful as a substitute for Velouli, or
other white sauces, as also for many other purposes, aa will be shown
hereafter.
* These two grand fauces differ from tbe slock EtpagnoU and Vtlouti, in being
worked or finished sauces.
f Tbit ia a French term for a distinct set of copper saucepans, tinned both inside and
tmUide, and used only for the Special Sauces, when finished.


36
SAUCES.
7. ALLEMANDE SAUCE.
Reduce the quantity of white Veloule sauce intended for the Alle-
mande, over a brisk stove-fire, adding a little essence of mushrooms
or some mushroom trimmings; when the sauce is sufficiently reduced,
take it off the stove, and incorporate with it a feason* of yelks of eggs
(in the proportion of four yelks to a pint), a little nutmeg, cream, a
pat of butter, and a little lemon-juice; set the leason in the sauce, by
stirring it over the fire until it simmers; it must then be quickly
stirred to keep the sauce from boiling, as, in that case, the yelks of
eggs would be liable to curdle, which would considerably deteriorate
from its quality. When the leason is set, pass the sauce through a
tammy into a basin, or bain-marie, for use.
This sauce is in much request, as the foundation of many other-,
especially fish sauces.
SPECIAL SAUCES.
COMPRISING
Financiire Sauce.
Turtle do.
Salmis do.
Do. <l I'anrirnne.
Brown Italian Sauce.
White Italian do.
Fine Herbs do.
Pancaline do.
B' Uxellce do.
Poor-man's do.
Piquante do.
Gherkin do.
White Ravigottt do.
Green do. do.
Tomato do/
Pfrigueux do.
Lyonnaise do.
Provencale do,
Venetian do.
Britonne do.
Bourguignotte do.
Poivrade do.
Gfnahe do.
Matelotte do.
Norman matelotle do.
Bigarrade do.
Aromatic do.
Bmitian do.
Atelet9 do.
Polish do.
Butter do.
Sauce for asparagus.
Anchovy Sauce.
Plain lobster do.
Shrimp do.
Supreme do.
Do. of Game.
Aurora Sauce.
Dutch do.
Maltre d'hdtel do.
Do. cold.
Princess Sauce.
Albert do.
Indian curry do.
Cardinal do.
Regency do.
White oyster do.
Brown oyster do.
Muscle do.
Shrimp do.
Crayfish do.
Lobster do.
Sturgeon do.
BordelaUe do.
Oasconne do.
Richelieu do.
Robert do.
Claremont do.
Portuguese do.
Sicilian do.
German sweet do.
Cherry do.
Jfapolitain do.
Cherry do., d la Victoria.
Red currant jelly Sauce for Venison.
Black currant jelly Sauce for Venison.
Fennel Sauce.
Parsley do.
Rarigotte do.
Plain Dutch do
Bread do.
Fried bread do.
Brown gravy Sauce for roast real,
Cream Sauce for roast neck of do.
* From the French liaison, which here means a binding or thickening.


SPECIAL SAUCES.
37
Parisian Sauce.
Mustard do.
Caper Sauce for fish.
Do. for boiled mutton.
Cream Sauce for salt fish.
Orleans Sauce.
Devil's do.
Plain curry do.
WattreJUch€ do.
Flemish do.
Egg do.
8. FINANCIERS SAUCE.
Put one glass of sherry or madeira into a stewpan with some
essence of truffles and a little cayenne; reduce these to half their
original quantity, then add a ladleful of finished Espagnole sauce;
let it boil for five minutes longer, and pass the sauce through a tammy
into a bain-marie for use.
Put one glass of madeira into a stewpan with a spoonful of red
tomata sauce, and a little cayenne; reduce these to half their quantity,
then add a ladleful of Espagnole or brown sauce, and some essence
of mushrooms; having stirred this over the fire until it boils, set it by
the side to clarify; skim it thoroughly, and reduce it to a proper con-
sistency; pass it through a tammy into a bain-marie; and just before
using this sauce, mix in two anchovies (that have been pounded with
a very small piece of fresh butter, and passed through a tammy) with
a little lemon-juice.
Place the trimmings of the birds of which the salmis is to be
made, in a stewpan with a tablespoonful of salad-oil, four shalots, one
bay-leaf, and a sprig of thyme; pass these on the stove-fire for five
minutes; add two glasses of any sort of good white wine; reduce
this to half its quantity, add a ladleful of Espagnole and some mush-
room trimmings or essence; set the sauce to boil, and then put it by
the side of the stove to clarify. Having well skimmed it, pass the
sauce through a tammy into a bain-marie, pouring a small portion of
the sauce on the members of the birds to keep them moist, and to warm
them in.
Chop off the trimmings of the birds that have been roasted for nn
entree (woodcocks or snipes are generally chosen for this purpose);
place the trimmings in a stewpan, with six shalots, a little thyme, a
bay-leaf, and half a bottle of red wine (claret is preferable); simmer
these over the fire for ten minutes, add a ladleful of essence of game,
and a gravy-spoonful of reduced Espagnole sauce; stir this on the fire
until it boils, and .then place it by the fire to clear itself; ten minutes
after, skim it thoroughly, and having reduced it to the consistency of
a thin glaze, pass it through a tammy on to the members of the
birds. Just before dishing up, add a spoonful of chopped and blanched
parsley.
Chop four shalots very fine, place them in a comer of a clean
napkin, oecuriug them tightly, and immerse them in cold water to
9. TURTLE SAUCE FOR CALF'S HEAD.
10. SALMIS SAUCE.
11. SALMIS SAUCE A l'ANCIENNE.
12. BROWN ITALIAN SAUCE.


38
SAUCES.
extract their acrid taste; squeeze out the water aud put them into a
stewpan with a handful of white mushrooms chopped very fine, some
thyme, a bay-leaf, and a tablespoonful of salad-oil; pass these on the
fire for five minutes, add two glasses of white wine, and, when this is
reduced to half its quantity, then add a small ladleful of finished
Espagnole and a little blond of veal; set the sauce to boil; and hav-
ing freed it from the oil, take out the thyme and bay-leaf; reduce it to
the consistency of other sauces, and pour it into a bain-marie, to be
kept for use.
13. WHITE ITALIAN SAUCE.
The preparation of this sauce differs from the preceding only in
substituting Veloide sauce for Espagnole.
14. FINE HEKBS' SAUCE.
Chop, separately, a large gravy-spoonful of prepared white mush-
rooms, three shalots, and a handful of parsley; place these in a stew-
pan with an onnce of fresh butter, a pinch of minionette pepper, a
little grated nutmeg, and salt; pass the whole on the fire for five min-
utes, add a small ladleful of finished Espagnole or Veloule sauce
(according to the color required); boil it quickly, finish with a little
lemon-juice, and pour it into a bain-marie for use.
15. PISCALINE SAUCE.
Chop a handful of white mushrooms very fine, and place them in a
small stewpan with a small piece of butter; stir them on the fire for
three minutes; add a glass of French white wine, and after allowing
these to simmer on the fire a little while, add a small ladleful of white
sauce and a little essence of fowl; reduce the sauce quickly, and then
take it off the stove and mix in a leason of three yelks of eggs, and a
small pat of butter; set the leason in the sauce over the fire, and then
pour it into a bain-marie for use. Just before using the sauce, add to
it a tablespoonful of chopped and blanched parsley, and the juice of
half a lemon.
16. d'uxelles SAUCES.
Chop, separately, half a pottle of mushrooms, a handful of parsley,
six shalots, and two ounces of truffles; place these in a stewpan with
two ounces of fat bacon scraped into a kind of pulp, a pat of butter,
some pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg; then stir the whole on the fire
for five minutes; add two glasses of French white wine, reduced by
boiling to half the quantity; and then a small ladleful of white sauce;
reduce the whole quickly on the fire, and mix in a leason of six yelks
of eggs; finish with the juice of a lemon. Set the leason in the sauce
by stirring it again on the fire; place the sauce in a small basin, and
keep it for the purpose of covering all those entrees denominated d la
IfUxelles, previously to bread-crumbing them.
17. POOR man's sauce.
Chop an onion very fine, put it into a stewpan with a small piece
of butter, and gently fry the onion on the fire until it assumes a light-
brown color; then add a tablespoonful of white wine vinegar, and
a pinch of minionette pepper; allow these to simmer for three miu-


SPECIAL SAUCES. 39
ntes, and then add a small ladleful of blond of veal or consomme;
let the whole be reduced to half the original quantity; and just
before using the sauce, throw in a spoonful of chopped and blan .shed
parsley.
18. PIQUANTE SAUCE.
Chop, separately, six shalots, as many green gherkins, and a table-
spoonful of French capers; place these in a small stewpan with a gill
of French vinegar, some thyme and a bay-leaf, and a good pinch of
mignionette pepper; set the whole to boil on the fire till the vinegar
is reduced to a third of its original quantity; then add a small ladle-
ful of finished Espagnole sauce, and a little blond of veal: let the
sance boil gently on the side of the stove-fire to clear itself; skim it
well, take out the thyme and bay-leaf, and pour it into a small bain-
marie for use.
19. GHERKIN SAUCE.
Take six green gherkins; cut them into.very thin slices; place
them in a small stewpan with a little French vinegar and mignionette
pepper; allow these to simmer quickly for a few minutes on the fire,
then add a small ladleful of brown sauce and a little blond of veal;
stir the sauce on the stove till it boils, then set it by the side to clear
itself, skim it, and pour it into a bain-marie for use.
20. WHITE RAVIGOTTE SAUCE.
Put into a small stewpan two tablespoonfuls of Chili vinegar, the
same quantities of tarragon vinegar and of Harvey sauce; reduce
these, by boiling, to half the quantity; then add a small ladleful of
good Bechamel sauce, or, if not at hand, the same quantity of white
sauce; finish by mixing in two pats of fresh butter, and just before
using the sauce, throw in a tablespoonful of chopped and blanched
parsley.
When white sauce is used instead of Bechamel, a little cream must
be added.
21. GREEN' RAVIGOTTE SAUCE.
Wash and blanch some chervil, parsley, tarragon, and chives (of
each a small handful), and also a little burnet; cool these in fresh
water as soon as they are blanched, and thoroughly extract the water
by pressing them in a napkin; pound the herbs, thus prepared, in a
mortar, with two pats of butter; after which rub them through a fine
sieve with a wooden spoon, and place the residue in a small basin, to
be kept on ice, or in a cool place.
About five minutes before requiring the sauce for use, put into a
small stewpan a ladleful of Allemande, and, when thoroughly warmed,
mix in with it the prepared Ravigolle, in sufficient quantity to give a
bright green color to the sauce; add a tablespoonful of Tarragon vine-
gar, and the same quantities of Chili vinegar and of .Harvey sauce,
previously reduced, by boiling, to half the quantity.
This sauce is very generally used for fillets of fish.
22. TOMATA, OR LOVE-APPLE SAUCE.
Procure a dozen fine ripe tomatas, and, having first picked off the
■talks, extract the seeds and watery parts, by squeezing them separately


40 SAUCES.
in the hand; then place them in a stewpan, containing four ounces
of raw ham cut into dice, a few shalots, a bay-leaf, and thyme, fried in
a little butter until they become brown; put the tomatas with these
on the fire until they are melted; then, after haying passed them
through the tammy into a puree, mix the produce with a little Veloule
sauce, a small piece of glaze, and a little consomme; stir the sauce on
the fire till it boils, and then set it by the side of the stove to continue
boiling gently, that it may clear itself; skim it thoroughly, and pour
it into a bain-marie for use.
It is, perhaps, needless to observe, that, when the ready-prepared
tomata sauce, as sold by oilmen, is nsed, as must be the case when
tomatas are not in season, it will be necessary only to attend to the
latter part of the foregoing directions.
23. FERIGUEUX SAUCE.
Chop six or eight truffles exceedingly fine, put them into a stewpan
with two glasses of white wine, a little lean ham, some thyme, and a
bay-leaf; set these to boil gently on the stove-fire for a few minutes,
then add a ladleful of brown sauce and a little consomme; stir the
sauce on the fire till it boils, and then set it by the side to clear
itself; skim it well, take out the ham, the bay-leaf, the thyme, and,
after reducing it to a proper consistency, pour it into a bain-marie
for use.
Just before dinner-time, add a small piece of butter, to soften the
flavor.
24. LYONNAISE SAUCE.
Peel four Portugal onions, cut them in halves, trim off the ends,
so as to leave the onions an inch and a half thick; slice them across,
that the pieces may separate at the junction of the several folds, or
layers, of the onion; fry them in a deep sauta-pan, in half a pint of
salad-oil; as soon as they assume a fine light color, drain them on a
hair-sieve, and afterward lay them on a napkin, in order to extract all
the oil; after which put them into a small stewpan, with a good pinch
of minionette pepper, a very small ladleful of reduced brown sauce,
and a piece of glaze; set the sauce to boil gently for a quarter of an
hour, and finish by adding a little lemon-juice.
25. PROVENCALE SAUCE.
Cut two onnces of the lean part of a ham into very small dice, place
them in a small stewpan, with two tablespoonsful of salad-oil, four cloves
of garlic, some thyme, a bay-leaf, a spoonful of capers, the pulp of a
lemon cut into slices, a good pinch of minionette pepper, and a few
parsley stales; stir these on the stove-fire for five minutes, then add a
small ladleful of reduced brown sauce, and a piece of glaze. Boil the
sauce on a quick fire for a few minutes longer, and then pass it through
a tammy as you would a purie; remove it into a stewpan, add a little
consomme, and set it to boil gently by the side of the stove for a few
minutes, skim it, and pour it into a bain-marie, finish by adding a little
anchovy .butter.
26. VENETIAN^ SAUCE.
Prepare a sufficient quantity of Allemande sauce for the purpose


SPECIAL SAUCES. 41
required, and, just before dinner-time, add a good spoonful of tarragon
leaves, cut into diamond-shapes, and blanched green, a pat of butter, a
little nutmeg, and a spoonful of tarragon vinegar.
27. BRETONNE SAUCE.
Cut two large onions into thin slices; fry them of a light brown
color, in a little butter; then add sufficient brown sauce, according
to the quantity required, a little consommi, and a pinch of pepper;
boil the sauce gently for a quarter of an hour, and then pass it, as
you would a purie, through the tammy, and put it into a bain-marie
for use. i
28. BOURGUIGNOTTE SAUCE.
Pet four shalots, two cloves, a blade of mace, thyme, and bay-leaf,
together with three glasses of red wine and some mushroom-trimmings,
into a stewpan, on the fire, there to boil for five minutes; add a small
•adleful of brown sauce and a little consommi; stir the sauce on the
fire till it boils, and then set it on the side to clear itself; skim it,
reduce it to its proper consistency, and then pass it through the tammy
into a bain-marie.
29. POIVRADE SAUCE.
Take a carrot, an onion, and a head of celery; cut them into very
email dice, and place them in a stewpan, with two ounces of raw lean
of ham cut similarly, some thyme, and a bay-leaf, a blade of mace, a
few peppercorns, and some parsley; fry these with a little butter, of
a light brown color; moisten with two glasses of sherry and one of
French vinegar; rednce the above to one half its quantity, and then
add a small ladleful of brown sauce and a little consommi; stir the
sauce till it boils, and then set it by the side to clear itself; skim it,
and pass it through a tammy into a bain-marie for use.
30. GENOISE SAUCE.
Cut some ham, carrot, celery, onion, parsley roots, and mushrooms,
into very thin slices; place these in a stewpan with a little butter,
some thyme, and a bay-leaf, a blade of mace, and two cloves, and fry
them on the stove for a few minutes; moisten with half a bottle of red
wine (claret suits best). Boil the whole for five minutes; add a small
ladleful of brown sauce and a little consomme; stir the sauce on the
fire till it boils, and then set it to clarify by the side of the stove-fire;
skim it, and pass it through a tammy into a bain-marie for use.
Just before dinner-time, add a piece of anchovy butter, a spoonful
of chopped and blanched parsley, a little grated nutmeg, and lemon-
juice.
31. MATELOTTE SAUCE.
Take the wine in which the fish has been stewed, and add to it a
ladleful of brown sance, and some trimmings or essence of mush-
rooms; stir this on the fire till it boils, and then set it by the side to
clear itself; skim and reduce it, and then pass it into a bain-marie;
finish by adding a little anchovy butter, grated nutmeg, and a pinch
of sugar.


42 SAUCES.
32. NORMAN MATELOTTE SAUCE.
Reduce some white VelotUe sauce with some essence of mush-
rooms, three glasses of French white wine, and the liquor from the
muscles and oysters used for the matelotte: add a leason of four yelks
of eggs, a pat of butter, some nutmeg and lemon-juice; and pass the
sauce through a tammy into a bain-marie. Just before' using the
sauce, add a spoonful of chopped and blanched parsley.
33. BIGARRADE SAUCE.
With the carcasses of two or more roasted ducks, make an essence;
clarify it, and reduce it to half glaze. To this add a small ragout-
spoonful of worked Espagnole, the juice of one orange, and the rind
of two others entirely free from any portion of the white pith; and
having- cut the rind into diamond shapes, blanch these pieces for three
minutes in boiling water, and then put them into the sauce, which, after
boiling for five minutes, pour into a bain-marie for use.
34. AROMATIC SAUCE.
Put into a small stewpan a few sprigs of winter-savory, of sweet
basil, and lemon thyme; six leaves of sage, and two bay-leaves, two
shalots, some nutmeg, and pepper, and a ladleful of good consomme;
boil this quickly on the fire for ten minutes; pass it through a sieve
into a stewpan,, and reduce it with an equal proportion of white
sauce; add a leason of four yelks of eggs, and pass the sauce into a
bain-marie, containing two dozen stewed morels. Just before using
this sauce, add a pat of butter, some lemon-juice, and a spoonful of
chopped and blanched tarragon and chervil. *
35. RUSSIAN SAUCE.
Having chopped and blanched some tarragon, chervil, and parsley,
in equal proportions, put these into some reduced Veloute sauce
thickened with two yelks of eggs. Just before using the sauce, add a
little grated horseradish, a pinch of sugar, some pepper, lemon-juice,
and a little mustard.
This sauce is eaten with braized beef.
36. ATELETS SAUCE.
Cut two ounces of raw lean of ham into very small mince-meat; put
it into a small stewpan with half a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, one
shalot chopped, a little nutmeg, and minionette pepper; moisten with
a few spoonsful of consomme, and set the whole to simmer on the fire
for ten minutes; after which, add a small ladleful of white sauce, and
having reduced it to a proper consistency, mix in a leason of six yelks
of eggs, and a pat of butter; finish with a little lemon-juice, and pass
the sauce through a tammy into a basin.
This sauce is used for covering all preparations for those entrees
denominated d la Villeroi, or a la Dauphine, previously to their being
dipped in the beaten egg for the purpose of being bread-crumbed.
37. POLISH SAUCE.
Scrape a stick of horseradish, and put it into some Allemande
■auce with a dessert-spoonful of pounded sugar, the grated rind of


SPECIAL SAUCES. 43
one lemon, nutmeg, pepper, lemon-juice, a piece of glaze, and a little
salt. Previously to using the sauce, add a spoonful of chopped and
blanched parsley and fennel.
This sauce is eaten with roast veal.
38. SUPREME SAUCE.
There are two methods by which this sauce may be made with
equal success: that most generally adopted is, to use reduced Veloute
sauce which has been worked with some essence of mushrooms and
white consommi of fowls, and finished by adding a little boiling cream
at the last stnge of reduction; the sauce should be^then passed through
a tammy into a bain-marie, and just before using it, a small piece of
chicken glaze, a pat of fresh butter, and a little lemon-juice must be
added.
The other method, and which I prefer to the former, is to put a
sufficient quantity of Allemande sance into a bain-marie, and finish it
for the purpose, by mixing in a piece of chicken glaze, a pat of fresh
butter, and a little lemon-juice; care must be taken that the Suprime
sauce be not thick.
39. SUPREME OF GAME.
This is made like the previous sauce, except that, according to the
first method, some essence of game must be used instead of the
chicken consomme, and in the second recipe, the Allemande sauce used
for the purpose should be worked with an essence of game (pheasant
or partridge), and also finished with a piece of game glaze.
40. PARISIAN SAUCE.
Put some Allemande sauce into a bain-marie, add thereto a spoon-
ful of essence of truffles, a piece of game or chicken glaze, according
to the purpose for which the sauce may be required, whether for an
entree made of game or poultry; add some crayfish butter in suffi-
cient quantity to color it of a pinky tint, a little cayenne and lemon-
juice; when these ingredients are well mixed in the Allemande, add
two dozen small truffles cut in the shape of small olives.
41. AURORA SAUCE.
Put some Bichamel sauce into a bain-marie, and just before the
sauce is required for use, mix in a small piece of lobster butter, a
leason of three yelks of eggs, a tablespoonful of tarragon-vinegar, and
a little cayenne.
* 42. DUTCH SAUCE.
Put the yelks of six eggs, a small piece of glaze, six ounces of fresh
butter, a spoonful of white sauce, some nutmeg, minionette pepper, and
salt, into a small stewpan; stir these quickly with a wooden spoon,
over a slow fire, or else immerse the bottom of the stewpan into a deep
sauta-pan half full of boiling water, which must be kept over a slow
fire, while the sauce is worked: as soon as the sauce assumes a smooth
compact body, take it away from the fire, work it smartly, and then
»ass it through a tammy into a bain-marie for use. If the sauce
should appear to curdle or decompose, add a spoonful of any white
sauce nearest at hand, which will set it right again.


44 SAUCES.
Dutch sauce may be flavored with various sorts of vinegar, horse-
radish, or lemon-juice, according to fancy, or as the case may require.
43. MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE.
Put some Bechamel 6ance into a stewpan, make it boil, and incor-
porate with it six ounces of fresh butter, some chopped and blanched
parsley, pepper, salt, and lemon-juice.
44. COLD MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE.
Put about six ounces of fresh butter on a plate, knead it together
with some chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and lemon-juice.
This butter is chiefly used for French beefsteaks, for broiled mack-
erel, and other sorts of broiled fish, as will be shown hereafter.
45. PRINCESS SAUCE.
Put into a small stewpan the rind of one lemon, and half a stick
of horse-radish, both grated; a little nutmeg, pepper, and two table-
spoonsful of French vinegar; simmer these on a slow fire for a few
minutes, and then add a small ladleful of Allemande sauce; stir the
whole ou the fire till it boils, then pass it through a tammy into a
bain-marie. Just before using the sauce, add a pal of fresh butter,
and a tablespoonful of chopped and blanched parsley. This sauce
will prove an excellent accessory, to be served with any entree of
poultry or game, when dressed d la Dauphine, or a la Villeroi; as
also for fillets of dressed fish, bread-crumbed, and denominated d la
Princess; in which case, a little anchovy butter may be added.
46. ALBERT SAUCE.
Grate three large sticks of horse-radish, put them into a stewpan
with a pint of good broth; let this simmer gently on a moderate fire
for half an hour, then add a little white sauce and half a pint of
cream; reduce the whole over a brisk fire, and pass the sauce
through a tammy as you would apurie, and put it into a bain-marie.
Just before using the sauce, make it hot, and mix in a little
French vinegar, a dessert-spoonful of mixed mustard, some salt, a
tablespoonful of chopped and blanched parsley, and two yelks of
eggs.
This sauce is well adapted to be eaten with braized fillet of beef,
garnished with potatoes cut into the shapes of olives, and fried in
butter.
47. INDIAN CURRY SAUCE.
Take two large onions, one carrot, and one head of celery, and slice
them very thin; place these with two ounces of fresh butter in a
stewpan, and fry them over a 6low fire till the onions are nearly
melted, but without becoming brown; add three blndes of mace,
some thyme, and a bay-leaf, a bouquet of parsley, and two table-
spoousful of Cooks or Bruce's meat curry paste, a tablespoonful of
curry powder, and as much roux or flour as may be required to
thicken the quantity of sauce needed; moisten with some good broth
»r consomme, and stir the sauce on the fire till it boils; then set it by
.he side to clear itself of the butter, &c Having skimmed and
reduced the sauce to a proper consistency, pass it through a tammy


SPECIAL SAUCES. 45
(extracting the parsley), as for a purie, and take it up into a bain-
marie, or add it to whatever kind of meat is prepared for the curry;
observing that the broth thereof should be used for making the
sauce.
48. CARDINAL SAUCE.
Put some reduced Veloute sauce into a stewpan, add some essence
of mushrooms, lobster butter, a little essence of anchovies, lemon-
juice, and cayenne; work these well together, and pass the sauce
through a tammy into a bain-marie for use.
Observe: that for whatever kind of meat or fish this sauce may be
intended, the essence or liquor of the meat or fish should be first
reduced to glaze, and then incorporated into the sauce, in order to
give it a characteristic flavor.
49. REGENCY SAUCE.
Cut an eel of a pound weight into thin slices, and place them in
a stewpan with six cloves, two blades of mace, some thyme, a bay-
leaf, sweet basil, a carrot, mushrooms, an onion, and a little salt;
moisten with three parts of a bottle of good claret, and put the whole
to boil gently on the fire for half an hour; after which pass the essence
thus obtained through the tammy with pressure, so as to extract every
particle. Then mix the produce with a ladleful of reduced Espagnole
sauce, and having boiled, skimmed, and reduced it, finish by working
into it some essence of truffles, anchovy butter, nutmeg, lemon-juice,
and a small pinch of sugar.
This sauce is peculiarly well adapted for every sort of colored fish,
either fresh-water or salt.
50. WHITE OYSTER SAUCE.
Put the oysters into a stewpan, and set them to boil for five minutes
on the stove-fire, drain them on a sieve (saving their liquor in a basin),
wash and beard them, taking care to cut off the tendons, as that part
"when eaten is troublesome to the teeth, and put them into a bain-
marie—reserving only the fat part; then put four ounces of butter
(more or less, according to the quantity of sauce) into a stewpan with
two ounces of flour, cayenne pepper, and salt; knead these well
together, and moisten with the oyster liquor, some cream, and a piece
of glaze; stir the sance on the fire, keeping it boiling for ten minutes;
then pass it through a tammy upon the oysters. Just before sending
to table, add a little lemon-juice.
51. BROWN OYSTER SAUCE.
Prepare this precisely as the last sauce, but instead of the cream,
nse an equal quantity of brown gravy. Brown oyster sauce is a very
desirable accessory to beefsteaks, beef pudding, beefsteak pie, broiled
slices of codfish, and various other plain dressed dishes.
52. MUSCLE SAUCE.
Cleanse, wash, beard, and blanch or parboil two quarts of muscles;
ftke all the white fat muscles out of the shells, and place them in a
tain-marie, reserving their liquor in a basin. Then knead four ounces
of butter with two ounces of flour, some nutmeg, pepper, and salt;


46 SAUCES.
add the liquor from the muscles, a piece of glaze, and half a pint of
cream; stir the whole on the stove fire till it boils, and keep it boil-
ing for ten minutes:—then add a leason of four yelks of eggs, and
pass it-through a tammy on to the muscles. Just before sending the
sauce to table, throw in a tablespoonful of chopped and blanched
parsley, and a little lemon-juice.
This sauce is well adapted for broiled whiting, turbot, cod, haddock,
and gurnet.
53. SHRIMP SAUCE.
To about half a pint of melted butter, add a little lobster coral,
cayenne, some pickled shrimps, a little essence of anchovies, and
lemon-juice.
54. CRAYFISH SAUCE.
Boil thirty crayfish in the usual manner, trim the tails, and with the
bodies and shells make some crayfish butter (No. 184), which incor-
porate into about half a pint of reduced Velouie sauce; add a little
essence of anchovies, cayenne, and lemon-juice, and pass this sauce
through a tammy on to the crayfish tails.
55. LOBSTER SAUCE.
Cut the fleshy part of a lobster into small square pieces; reserve
the spawn and coral, and pound it with two ounces of butter, and
pass it through a sieve. Then put about half a pint of melted butter,
or the same quantity of reduced Velouit sauce, into a stewpan, incor-
porate therewith the lobster butter, a small piece of glaze, cayenne,
and lemon-juice, add the pieces of lobster, and send to table.
56. STURGEON SAUCE.
Take some of the liquor in which the sturgeon has been braized,
and having reduced it to one third of its quantity, add half a bottle
of claret or port, a ladleful of worked Espagnole sauce, and some
essence or trimmings of mushrooms; allow the sauce to clear itself
by boiling gently on the side of the stove fire, skim it, reduce it. and
then pass it through a tammy into a bain-marie. Just before using
the sauce, mix in a pat of butter, some nutmeg, cayenne, essence of
anchovies, and lemon-juice.
57. BORDELAISE SAUCE.
Mince two ounces of lean ham, and put it into a stewpan with two
cloves of garlic, a few peppercorns, a blade of mace, some thyme,
and a bay-leaf, some sprigs of tarragon, and half a pint of claret;
set these to simmer gently on a slow fire for twenty minutes, then
add a piece of glaze about the size of a walnut, a small gravy-spoon-
ful of worked Espagnole sauce, and a little blond of veal; having
allowed the sauce to boil gently by the side of the stove-fire to clear
itself, pass it with pressure through a tammy into a bain-marie for
use. This sauce must be kept rather thin, and to be perfect, should
be bright and wholly free from grease; it is especially adapted, by
its flavor and character, for being served with broiled meats and fishes
generally. When this sauce is served with broiled fish, add to it, just
before sending to table, a little essence of anchovies, cayenne, and
emon-juice.


SPECIAL SAUCES. 47
58. CLAREMONT SAUCE.
Cut two or more large onions into halves, pare off the ends, cut
them into thin slices, and fry them in a stewpan with some butter,
of a fine yellow color; drain off the butter, add a pinch of minion-
ette pepper, with a little brown sauce and consommi; set this to boil
gently by the side of the stove fire, skim it, and then, when suffi-
ciently reduced, pour it into a bain-marie for use. This sauce, as well
as sauce d la Britonne, is well calculated for making an excellent hash,
either with beef, veal, or mutton.
59. PORTUGUESE SAUCE.
Grate the rind of a lemon, and put it into a small stewpan with
a few bruised peppercorns, some mace, six cloves, thyme, and a
bay-leaf, with half a pint of sherry; simmer the whole on a slow
fire for ten minutes, then add a small ladleful of worked brown sauce,
and a little consomme'; set this to boil gently by the side of the stove-
fire, skim it, reduce it, and pass it through a tammy into a bain-marie
for use.
This sauce is nsed for a braized fillet of beef, or minced fillet of
beef au graiin a la Portuguaise.
60. SICILIAN SAUCE.
Chop two truffles, four shalots, a dozen mushrooms, and some
parsley, separately; put them into a small stewpan with thyme, and a
bay-leaf, one clove of garlic, and a little cayenne; moisten with two
glasses of sherry, set the whole to simmer gently on a slow fire for
ten minutes; add a sufficient quantity of Allemande sauce for the pur-
pose required, reduce it to its proper consistency, and then put it into
a bain-marie for use.
Just before using this sauce, add a spoonful of chopped and
blanched parsley, the rind of two oranges—pared extremely thin,
cut into fine shreds, and blanched—some lemon-juice, and a little
pounded sugar.
61. GERMAN SWEET SAUCE.
Stew six ounces of dried cherries in two glasses of red wine,
together with some bruised cinnamon, cloves, and lemon peel, for
twenty minutes on a slow fire; pass the whole through a tammy into
a pttrfe, and put it into a stewpan with a little reduced brown sauce
and six ounces of stewed prunes.
This sauce is in great request for German dishes; it improves
the flavor of braized venison in its varied forms of preparation,
and is preferred by many for that purpose to Poivrade or Piquante
sauce.
62. CHERRY SAUCE.
Pot a pot of black currant jelly into a stewpan, together with six
ounces of dried cherries, a small stick of cinnamon, and a dozen cloves
tied up in a piece of muslin; moisten with half a pint of red wine, and
»et the whole to simmer gently on a slow fire for ten minutes; then
*ke out the cinnamon and cloves, and send to table.
This kind of sauce is well adapted for roast hare or venison


48 SAUCES.
63. NEAPOLITAN SAUCE.
Scrape a stick of horse-radish quite clean, grate it, and place this
in a small stewpan with two ounces of glaze, a small pot of currant-
jelly, half a pint of red wine, and a spoonful of worked brown sauce;
boil the whole gently on a stove-fire for twenty minutes, then pass the
sauce through a tammy as you would a purie, and pat it into a bain-
marie for use.
This kind of sauce is generally used with larded fillets of beef. It
may also be served with entries of venison.
64. CHERRY SAUCE A LA VICTORIA.
Put a small pot of red currant-jelly into a stewpan, together with
a dozen cloves, a stick of cinnamon, the rind of two oranges, a
piece of glaze, and a large gravy-spoonful of reduced brown sauce;
moisten with half a pint of Burgundy wine, boil gently on the fire for
twenty minutes; pass the sauce through a tammy into a bain-marie,
add the juice of the two oranges, and just before sending to table boil
the sauce.
This sauce is especially appropriate with red deer or roebuck, when
prepared in a marinade and larded.
65. RED CURRANT-JELLY SAUCE FOR VENISON.
Bruise one stick of cinnamon and twelve cloves, and put them
into a small stewpan with two ounces of sugar, and the peel of one
lemon pared off very thin, and perfectly free from any portion of
white pulp; moisten with three glasses of port wine, and set the
whole to simmer gently on the fire for a quarter of an hour; then
strain it through a sieve into a small stewpan containing a pot of red
currnnt-jelly. Just before sending the sauce to table, set it on the fire
to boil, in order to melt the currant-jelly, so that it may mix with the
essence of spice, &c'
66. BLACK CURRANT-JELLY SAUCE FOR VENISON.
Thts sauce is made exactly in the same manner as the foregoing—
substituting black currant-jelly for red; it is preferred by many to the
other, as it possesses more flavor.
67. SAUCE A LA ROBERT.
Peel two large onions and cut them in halves, pare off the ends,
and cut them into very small dice in the following manner:—hold the
half onion in the left hand, set it firmly on the table with the cut
side downward, then with a knife held in the right hand horizon-
tally, apply the edge of the point, and cut the onion into slices
parallel with the surface of the table, without drawing the knife
quite through; then turn the piece of onion half round and cut it
nearly through in a vertical direction; this will form the whole into
small dice like pieces. Next, put these into a small stewpan with
about an ounce of fresh butter, and fry them of a light yellow color;
then drain the butter, and add two tablespooufuls of French vinegar:
set this on the fire to simmer, and when the vinegar is nearly
reduced, add a small ladleful of Espagnole sauce, and half that
quantity of consomme; stir this on the fire till it boils, then set it on


SPECrAL SAUCES. 49
the side to continue gently boiling that it may clear itself; skim it
thoroughly, and having reduced it to a proper consistency, pour it into
a bain-marie, and finish it by mixing in two teaspoonsful of French
mustard and a little minionette pepper.
This sauce is peculiarly adapted, from its piqnante, fall, yet delicate
flavor, for entrees of broiled pork.
68. SAUCE A LA GASCONOTJ.
Take a small spoonful of French capers, with about an ounce of
truffles, and chop each separately, very fine; put these into a small
stewpan, together with one clove of garlic, a tablespoonful of salad oil,
some pepper, and nutmeg; fry them lightly on the stove-fire for two
or three minutes; moisten with a glass of French white wine, set the
whole to boil on the stove-fire for three minutes; then add a small
ladleful of white Veloute sauce, a bay-leaf, and a sprig of thyme; stir
the sauce on the fire till it boils, then set it by the side to continue
boiling gently; skim it well, and after having added another glass of
wine, reduce the sauce and thicken it with a leason of three yelks; pour
the sance into a bain-marie, and just before using it mix in a spoonful
of chopped and blanched chives, parsley, and tarragon, a pat of anchovy
butter, and some lemon-juice.
69. CHEVREUIL OR PIQUANTE SAUCE FOR ROEBUCK.
Chop four ounces of lean ham, and put it into a stewpan, with a
good pinch of minionette pepper, some thyme, and a bay-leaf, a few
green onions, and some sprigs of parsley; moisten with a gill of French
vinegar, boil the whole on the fire till reduced to half its original quan-
tity, and then add a small ladleful of brown sauce, a small tumblerful
of red wine, and a little consomme; stir this on the fire till it boils,
and after having cleared and skimmed it in the usual manner, reduce it
to a proper consistency, and finish by adding a spoonful of red currant-
jelly and the juice of an orange.
70. BUTTER SAUCE.
Butter sauce, or, as it is more often absurdly called, melted butler,
is the foundation of the whole of the following sauces, and requires
very great care in its preparation. Though simple, it is nevertheless
a very useful and agreeable sance when properly made; so far from
this being usually the case, it is too generally left to assistants to
prepare as an insignificant matter; the result is therefore seldom satis-
factory.
When a large quantity of butter sance is required, put four ounces
of fresh butter into a middle-sized stewpan, with some grated nutmeg
and minionette pepper; to these add four ounces of sifted flour; knead
the whole well together, and moisten with a pint of cold spring water;
rtir the sance on the fire till it boils, and after having kept it gently
boiling for twenty minutes (observing that it be not thicker than the
consistence of common white sauce), proceed to mix in one pound and
a half of sweet fresh butter, taking care to stir the sauce quickly the
whole time of the operation. Should it appear to turn oily, add now
and then a spoonful of cold spring water; finish with the juice of half a
lemon, and salt to palate; then pass the sauce through a tammy into a
lirge bain-marie for use.
3


50 SAUCES.
Note.—This kind of sance should not be made above twenty minutes
before it is wanted, as, from its particular delicacy, when exposed much
longer to heat of any kind, it is liable to be decomposed; should this
occur, it may be remedied by simply adding a little cold spring water
in winter, or a small piece of clean ice in summer; and then working
the sauce briskly together with a spoon. This method is efficacious in
restoring any sort of butter sauce, when turned or become oily, to its
original smoothness.
71. BUTTER SAUCE FOR ASPARAGUS.
Prepare some sauce as directed in the foregoing recipe, and add a
little double cream, with a teaspoonful of French vinegar.
This sauce is also served with cauliflower, brocoli, seakale, salsifis,
Ac, &c
72. ANCHOVY SAUCE.
Prepare some butter sauce, add a sufficient quantity of essence of
anchovies to give flavor, and a little lemon-juice.
73. PLAIN LOBSTER SAUCE.
Cut all the fleshy part of the lobster into small square dice, place
them in a bain-marie with sufficient butter sauce (No. 70), a little
cayenne, and lemon-juice, and also some lobster coral forced through
a hair-sieve; stir the sauce with a spoon on the fire till it boils, and
send to table. The coral may also be pounded with a little butter,
and after being rubbed through a sieve or tammy, worked into the
sauce. Either method may be adopted, but the latter is generally
preferred.
74. PLAIN SHRIMP SAUCE.
Take half a pint of pickled shrimps, half a pint of butter sauce
(No. 7O), a little essence of anchovies, cayenne, and lemon-juice; stir
these together in a small stewpan over the fire, and serve.
75. FENNEL SAUCE.
Chop and blanch sufficient fennel to color the sauce of a bright green,
and put it into a bain-marie, containing half a pint of butter sauce;
add a little pepper, salt, and lemon-juice.
76. GOOSEBERRY SAUCE.
Let a pint of green young gooseberries be well picked, throw them
into an untinned sugar-boiler, containing sufficient boiling water to
blanch them in; boil them quickly on the stove-fire for ten minutes
(more or less), but observe that the gooseberries be thoroughly done;
drain them on a sieve, remove them into a small stewpan, and bruise
them with a wooden spoon. The gooseberries after being boiled may
be rubbed through a sieve or tammy into a purie, which has the effect
of giving a smoother appearance to the sauce. This sauce is served
with plain boiled mackerel.
77. PARSLEY SAUCE, USUALLY CALLED PARSLEY AND BUTTER.
Put a tablespoonful of chopped and blanched parsley into half a pint
of good butter sauce; and just before sending to table add a very little
lemon-juice.


SPECIAL SAUCES. 51
78. PLAIN RAVIGOTTE SAUCE.
Take one tablespoonful each of tarragon-vinegar, Chili ditto, and
Harvey's sauce; put this into a small stewpan, and set it to boil down
to half the quantity; then add about half a pint of good butter sauce
(No. 70), and a tablespoonful of chopped and blanched tarragon, with
chervil, chives, burnet, and parsley, in sufficient quantity to give a
bright color to the sauce; stir the whole well together and serve.
This sauce is proper for boiled fowls or chickens, dressed fillets of
various sorts of fish, when a plain dinner is served. If a small piece
of glaze be added it will tend much to improve the quality of all plain
sauces.
79. PLAIN DUTCH SAUCE.
Pour. a large gravy-spoonful of melted butter into a small stewpan,
add four raw yelks of eggs, a little grated nutmeg, some minionette
pepper, two ounces of fresh butter, and a little salt; stir the sauce
briskly on the fire in order to set the yelks in it, and then pass it through
a tammy into a bain-marie; previously to using it add a little tarra-
gon-vinegar or lemon-juice.
80. BREAD SAUCE.
Put a gill of cream and a little milk into a small stewpan with a
large gravy-spoonful of bread-crumbs, a small onion, some pepper-
corns, and a little salt; stir the sauce on the fire until it has boiled ten
minutes, then take out the onion, work in a pat of fresh butter, and
serve.
81. FRIED BREAD SAUCE.
Mince a little lean ham and put it into a small stewpan with one
chopped shalot, some grated nntmeg, minionette pepper, and half a
pint of good gravy; simmer the whole on the stove-fire till reduced to
half, then strain it with pressure through a tammy into another small
stewpan, containing four tablespoonsful of fried bread-crumbs of a
light-brown color, and some chopped parsley; and a littleyessence of
chicken and the juice of half a lemon; stir the sauce till it boils, and
serve.
This kind of sauce is appropriate for all small birds, such as wheat-
ears, ortolans, ruffs and reeves, &c, &c
'82. BROWN GRAVY FOR ROAST VEAL.
Place four ounces of fresh butter in a stewpan and knead it with a
good tablespoonful of flour; add a ladleful of good brown gravy, some
essence of mushrooms or mushroom catsup, a little grated nutmeg, and
minionette pepper; stir the sauce on the stove, and keep it gently
boiling for ten minutes. If it becomes too thick add a little more
gravy, so as to keep it of the same consistency as any other sauce;
finish with a little lemon-juice.
If there is no gravy or essence of mushrooms at hand, use, in their
stead, a ladleful of water, a piece of glaze, some mushroom .catsup, and
a little Indian soy; these will answer nearly the same purpose


52 SAUCES.
83. CREAM SAUCE FOR ROAST KECK OF VEAL.
Knead four ounces of fresh butter with two ounces of sifted flour;
add half a pint of good cream and a small ladleful of white consomme,
a little nutmeg and minionette pepper, some essence of mushrooms, and
a garnished parsley-fagot; stir the sauce till it boils, and keep it gently
boiling for twenty minutes; then extract the onion and fagot, and
pass the sauce through a tammy into a bain-marie for use.
84. EGG SAUCE.
Boil some eggs hard; wheu cold, break and pick off their shells,
and then cut them up into square dicelike pieces, and put them into
some good melted butter, with a little pepper and salt; stir gently on
the fire till the sauce is hot, and then serve.
85. EGG SAUCE, ANOTHER METHOD.
Boil four eggs hard, take the yelks out, and cut the whites into
small shreds and put them into a stewpun; place a wire sieve over a
clean plate, and rub the yelks through it on to the plate, keeping the
vermicellilike substance which the operation will produce as whole as
possible; pour some good butter sauce on to the shred whites of eggs,
adding thereto a teaspoonful of English mustard, a little pepper and
salt, and lemon-juice; just before serving, warm the sauce, and mix in
lightly the vermicellied yelks of eggs, and serve.
86. SAUCE MOUTABDE, OB MUSTARD SAUCE.
Into about half a pint of good butter sauce, mix two tablespoonsful
of prepared English mustard and one of French ditto; make the sauce
hot, and serve.
This sauce is seldom used for any other dish than broiled herrings.
87. PLAIN CUBBY SAUCE.
Put two ounces of fresh butter into a stewpan, together with rather
more than an ounce of flour and a good tablespoonful of curry-paste
or powder; knead these well together, then add a little shred carrot,
celery, and onions; moisten with abont a pint of good strong consomme;
stir the sauce on the fire until it boils, and, after having kept it boiling
for about twenty minutes, pass it through the tammy, as for a puree;
then remove the sauce into a bain-marie or stewpan, to be used when,
required.
This economical method of making curry sauce shonld only be
resorted to in cases of emergency or necessity, otherwise it is desirable
to follow the directions contained in No. 47.
88. WASTBEFISH SAUCE, FOR BOILED FRESH-WATER FISH.
Cut into small shreds the rind of an orange, the red part of a
carrot, a handful of parsley-stalks, and an equal proportion of
parsley-roots; blanch these, and, having drained them on a sieve or
napkin, place them in a small stewpan, containing about half a pint
of Dutch sauce, with the addition of two spoonsful of reduced
essence of fish, a little cayenne, and lemon-juice; stir the sauce on
the fire without allowing it to boil, and serve it with perch, or,


SPECIAL SAUCES. 53
indeed, with any other sort of plain boiled fresh-water fish, for which
purpose the ingredients it contains render it peculiarly fitted.
89. FLEMISH SAUCE.
Knead two ounces of fresh butter with an equal quantity of flour,
to which add an onion, some sprigs of parsley, a little shred carrot,
and a sprig of thyme, a blade of mace, and a little minionette
pepper; moisten with half a pint of cream and the same proportion
of good cori8ommi. Stir the sauce on the fire until it boils, and, after
having kept it boiling for twenty minutes, pass it through the tammy
into a bain-marie, containing the red part of a carrot, some parsley-
stalks and roots, and some horse-radish, the whole of which should
be previously cut into small diamonds and blanched; fiuish by
mixing in a small spoonful of tarragon-vinegar and three or four
green Indian gherkins cut into shreds; make the sauce hot, and
serve.
90. CAPER SAUCE, FOR FISH.
Knead two ounces of fresh butter with one ounce of flour, a very
little grated nutmeg, and minionette pepper; to these add a table-
spoonful of capers, a piece of glaze, and a little essence of anchovies;
moisten with about half a pint of good consomme; stir the sauce on
the Ere until it begins to simmer, then take it off; add a little lemon-
juice, and serve.
This kind of sauce is peculiarly adapted for broiled salmon.
91. CAPER SAUCE, FOR BOILED MUTTON.
To about half a pint of good butter sauce, add a tablespoonful of
capers, with a little pepper and salt
.
'92. CREAM SAUCE, OR BECHAMEL, FOR SALT-FISH.
Place four ounces of sifted flour in a stewpan, with an equal quan-
tity of fresh butter; knead them together well with a wooden spoon;
add an onion, a carrot, a head of celery—the whole cut up thin-
some branches of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and half a bay-leaf, two
cloves, a blade of mace, and a few peppercorns; moisten with about a
pint of good white consomme and half a pint of cream, adding a little
salt; stir the sauce on the fire until it boils; let it continue to boil for
twenty minutes, stirring it the whole time; then pass it through a
tammy into a bain-marie, to be kept for use.
93. BEURRE NOIR, OB BLACK BUTTER SHARP SAUCE.
Place about six ounces of good fresh butter in a small stewpan,
put it on the fire to melt, and then allow it to fritter, so as to acquire
a light fcrown color; then take it off the stove, skim it, and quickly
pass it through a sieve, into a stewpan. containing four tablespoonsful
of French vinegar, a dessert-spoonful of chopped capers, ditto Har-
vey's sauce, ditto mushroom catsup, and a piece of glaze the size of a
walnut, and sufficient pepper and salt to season the sauce; boil the
whole well together, and use it for boiled skate or broiled mackerel.
With whatever kind of fish this sauce is served, fried parsley forms an
indispensable adjunct
.


54 COLD SAUCES.
93A. ORLEANS SAUCE.
Take the red part of a boiled carrot, the fillets of six washed an-
chovies, the white of two eggs boiled hard, and six green gherkins;
cut these into small square dicelike shapes, and place them in a small
bain-marie, add half a pint of Pcrivrade sauce, boil together gently for
five minutes, and use this sauce for braized meats.
93r. devil's sauce.
Chop three shalots fine, and place them in a small stewpan, with
two tablespoonfuls of French vinegar, and a pinch of cayenne pepper;
boil these together for three minutes; then add half a pint of thin
strong Espagnole sauce, and a tablespoonful of tomata sauce; boil
again, and finish by stirring in a small pat of anchovy butter (No.
179). This sauce is most appropriate for broiled meats.
COLD SATJCES.
COMPRISING
Cambridge Sauce. Mayonnaite Sauce of savory jelly.
Remoulade do. ProvtvfaU Sauce.
Tartar do. Cold Poivrade do.
ilayonnaii e do. Wild Boar's Head do.
Green do. do. Brawu do.
Red, or Coral do. do.
94. CAMBRIDGE SAUCE.
Take the yelks of six eggs boiled hard, the fillets of four anchovies,
cleaned, and put them into a mortar, with a tablespoonful of French
capers, some tarragon, chervil, chives, and a little burnet, blanched;
pound these well together with a teaspoonful of English mustard, the
same quantity of French, and some pepper and salt; moisten with good
salad-oil, and a little tarragon-vinegar, taking care that the sauce be
kept rather thick. Having sufficiently moistened the sauce, take it
out of the mortar into the tammy placed over a dish for that purpose,
and proceed to rub the sauce through the tammy in the same manner
as a purie; pass the back part of a knife along the under part of the
tammy, in order to detach therefrom any adhesive particles; take the
sauce up into a small basin, to be kept on the ice till wanted for use,
and just before sending it to table add some chopped parsley. Observe
that this sauce be kept about the same degree of thickness as reduced
Veloute sauce; salt must be used in moderation, owing to the presence
of anchovies in the composition.
95. REMOULADE SAUCE.
Blanch some tarragon, chervil, chives, burnet, and parsley; extract
the water and pound these herbs together, with four yelks of hard
eggs ; moisten with a gill of salad-oil, and a tahlespoonful of tarragon-
vinegar, and season with pepper and salt. Pass the sauce through a
tammy as for apurie, and then take it up into a small basin ; keep it
ou the ice till it is required for use.


COLD SAUCES. 55
TARTAR SAUCE.
Place a round-bottomed basin in a deep sauta-pan containing some
pounded ice, put two raw yelks of eggs into the basin with a little
pepper and salt, and with a wooden spoon proceed, with the back
part of the bowl, to work the yelk of eggs, dropping in, at intervals,
very small quantities of salad-oil, and a little tarragon-vinegar, until
a sufficient quantity of sauce is produced; bearing in mind, that the
relative quantity of oil to be used in proportion to the vinegar is as
five to one. When the sauce is finished, add some chopped tarragon
and chervil, and half a shalot.
In making this sauce, should it decompose through inattention, it
may instantly be restored to its proper consistency by mixing in it a
good spoonful of cold white sauce.
97. MAYONNAISE SAUCE.
Place two raw yelks of eggs in a round-bottomed basin, and set
this in a deep sauta-pan containing some pounded ice; add a little
pepper and salt to the yelks, and proceed to work them quickly with
the back' part of the bowl of a wooden spoon, moistening at inter-
vals with salad-oil and French vinegar, which must, however, be
sparingly used at first, and gradually increased as you proceed, until,
by this means, the quantity of sauce desired is produced; add a little
lemon-juice to make the sauce white. Previous to using the sance,
add a little aspic-jelly (No. 1218), which must be just barely melted
before incorporating it with the Mayonnaise, as in the case of its being
made warm it might have the effect of turning and decomposing the
sauce.
98. GREEN MAYONNAISE SAUCE.
Blanch some tarragon, chervil, a little burnet, and some parsley;
extract the water therefrom ; pass the Ravigotle thus produced through
a sieve, and proceed to incorporate it with some Mayonnaise, prepared
according to the foregoing instructions.
This sauce is usually colored with spinach-green (No. 286).
99. RED OR CORAL MAYONNAISE SAUCE.
Pound some lobster coral, pass it through a sieve, and mix it in with
some Mayonnaise sauce; add a little cayenne pepper and a spoonful
of mustard.
This sauce should be used exclusively for lobster and fish salads.
100. MAYONNAISE SAUCE OF SAVORY JELLY.
Set a round-bottomed basin in some ponnded ice, place therein
half a pint of light-colored aspic-jelly, a little pepper and salt, a
gravy-spoonful of salad-oil, and a tablespoonful of tarragon-vinegar;
whip this mixture quickly with a whisk, adding, from time to time,
some oil and vinegar in the same proportions as heretofore directed;
by whipping briskly, yon will find the sauce assume a white, smooth
appearance; add a little lemon-juice, to whiten it, and some chopped
tarragon and chervil; or, if preferred, this sauce may be used without
the latter. This kind of Mayonnaise sauce is considered as being the
most delicate, and is particularly adapted for aspics of fillets of fowls,
or any sort of white fish.


56 COLD SAUCES.
This sauce may also be colored, by using for that purpose either
some pounded lobster coral, or extract of spinach (No. 286).
101. PROVENCALE SAUCE.
Pound four yelks of hard-boiled eggs, together with four anchovies,
a spoonful of capers, some tarragon, chervil, burnet, parsley, a clove
of garlic, pepper and salt, a gill of salad-oil, and a tablespoonful of
tarragon-vinegar; rub the whole through a tammy with a wooden
spoon as for a purie: add a little lemon-juice and serve.
This kind of sauce is well adapted to be served with broiled eels or
fowls, and more especially with fish salads; in which case, a spoonful.
of chopped parsley should be added.
102. COLD POIVRADE SAUCE.
Put a good spoonful of brown sauce into a round-bottomed basin,
add thereto four tablespoonsful of salad-oil, one of Chili vinegar, a
little tarragon-vinegar, pepper, and salt; work the whole well together
with a whisk, then add a tablespoonful of chopped parsley and a little
shalot.
This sauce is good with plain boiled artichokes, and also for brawn,
by adding a little sugar for the brawn.
103. BOAR'S HEAD SAUCE.
Grate a stick of horse-radish, and place it in a basin with four
ounces of red currant-jelly, a spoonful of mixed mustard, the grated
rind of an orange and lemon, together with the juice of both; two
ounces of pounded sugar, a tablespoonful of French vinegar, and two
tablespoonsful of salad-oil; mix these ingredients thoroughly together,
and serve.
104. ANOTHER METHOD FOR MAKING BOAR'S HEAD SAUCE.
Pare the rind off two Seville oranges, free from any of the white
pith, cut it into fine shreds, parboil this, and drain it on a sieve; then
put it into a small stewpan containing the juice of the two oranges,
together with one pound of red currant jelly, half a pint of port wine,
and half a teaspoonful of cinnamon powder; simmer the whole together
in a stewpan, and serve when cold.
105. BRAWN SAUCE.
Mix together one tablespoonful of moist sugar, two of French vine-
gar, three of salad-oil, a teaspoonful of mixed mustard, some pepper
and salt, and serve.


PUREES OF VEGETABLES. 57
PUREES OF VEGETABLES FOR GARNISHING,*
COMPRIBniG
PurU of Peas.
Pwle of Artichokes.
n
Windsor Beans.
it
Asparagus.
st
Carrots.
n
Onions a la Soubitt,
it
Turnips.
n
Tomatas.
It
Celery.
it
Truffles.
n
Cauliflowers.
n
Mushrooms.
It
Spinach.
it
Brussels Sprouts.
it
Sorrel.
it
Cucumbers.
ft
Endive.
ti
French Beans.
it
Chestnuts.
it
Jerusalem Artichokes.
9*
Potatoes.
it
Seakale.
106. PUREE OF PEAS.
Boil a quart of marrowfat, or Prussian-blue peas, in the usual
manner, with some mint, a fevr green onions, and a handful of
parsley; strain off the water, and pound the whole thoroughly in a
mortar; then take this up into a stewpan, and after adding a little
sugar, a gravy-spoonful of good white sauce, make it hot, and pass
it through a tammy as usual; put the purie into a small stewpan, in
which it must be warmed before using it: mix in a small piece of
glaze, and a pat of fresh batter.
107. PUREE OF WINDSOR BEANS.
Procure a quart of young Windsor beans, and boil them with a
handful of parsley, a few green onions, and a little winter savory;
drain them and pound the whole together in a mortar: take them up
into a stewpan, add a gravy-spoonful of good white sance, and make
the purie warm. Rub it through the tammy with a wooden spoon;
then take it up into a stewpan, and just before using it make it suffi-
ciently hot; mix in a small piece of glaze, a pat of butter, a little
sugar, and some spinach-green (No. 285).
*\lt- . -. . *tiyk *'.' *
108. PUREE OF YOUNG CARROTS.
Clean a bunch of yonng carrots, slice them up thin, wash and
drain them in a sieve; then place them in a stewpan, with two
ounces of fresh butter, a little salt, grated nutmeg, and sugar; sweat
them on a slow fire, turning them over now and then. When the
carrots begin to get colored, moisten with a ladleful of good broth,
and set them on the fire; allow them to boil down gently to a glaze,
then pound them in the mortar, and rub them through the tammy
into a purie; put this purie into a small stewpan, and when required
for use, add a spoonful of thick Allemande sauce, a pat of fresh butter,
and a pinch of sugar. ,
109. PUREE OF TURNIPS A LA CREME.
Peel and wash a dozen good turnips, cut them into small square
• All the purees here described being intended for tntrie; should be kept firm, that
they may stand up well when placed in the centre of an entre*.


58 .. PUREES OF
pieces, or slices; first blanch, and then drain them on a napkin, and
afterward place them in a stewpan with two ounces of fresh butter,
a little sugar and salt; let them stew gently on a slow fire to extract
the moisture, turning them occasionally, and taking care that they
do not become at all colored. When the turnips are nearly melted,
add a small ladleful of Veloute or Bichamel sauce; stir the puree with
a wooden spoon on the fire, in order to reduce it to the consistency
of a soft paste; then add half a pint of double cream; reduce the
purie still further, then rub it through a tammy, next remove it into
a small stewpan, and previously to using it, make it sufficiently hot,
mixing in a pat of fresh butter, and serve.
110. PUREE OF CELERY.
Cut the white part of six or eight heads of celery into half-inch
lengths, boil these in water for five minutes, plunge them in fresh
water, and drain the celery in a uapkin; then place them in a stew-
pan with two ounces of butter, some white broth, a little sugar, and
grated nutmeg; cover the celery thus prepared with a round of
buttered paper, place the lid on the stewpan, and set it on a slow fire
to extract the moisture and melt the celery, taking care that in the
course of process it does not color: when the celery is melted or
softened, moisten with a ladleful of white sauce, and half a pint of
cream; reduce quickly on the fire, stirring the puree the whole time
with a wooden spoon. As soon as the puree is reduced to its proper
consistency, proceed immediately to rub it through the tammy, after-
which take it up into a small stewpan; previously to using it, make
the purie hot, and mix with it a little double cream and a pineh of
pounded sugar.
111. PUREE OF CAULIFLOWERS.
Cut two or more heads of white fresh cauliflowers into small
pieces, and after trimming these, boil them in some boiling water
with a little salt, minionette pepper, and a pat of butter; when done
drain them on a sieve, and afterward place them in a deep sauta-pan,
with a large gravy-spoonful of reduced Allemande, or white sauce; stir
the puree on the fire with a wooden spoon, and keep it boiling until
reduced to the consistency of a soft paste. Then instantly rub it
through a tammy, remove the purie into a small stewpan, and
previously to using it make it hot, and mix in a little grated nutmeg,
a pinch of sugar, and a little double cream to whiten it and make it
more delicate.
112. PUREE OF SPINACH.
Pick, wash, and boil a small dish of spinach, refresh it in cold
water, squeeze it thoroughly free from water, examine it carefully by
separating it with the point of a knife on the chopping-board, so as
to remove any straws, &c, left in it; next pound it well in the
mortar, and then take it up in a deep sauta-pan, add a small ladleful
of good white sauce, a little grated nutmeg, salt, and a pinch of
sugar, reduce the puree over a brisk fire to preserve its color; rub
it through a tammy, and remove it into a small stewpan; just before
using it make it warm, and add two pats of fresh butter aud a small
piece of glaze.


VEGETABLES FOR GARNISHING.
113. PUREE OF SORREL.
Pick, and well wash the sorrel in several waters; drain off the
water, and place the sorrel in a large stewpan on the fire, stirring it
the whole time with a wooden spoon; as soon as the sorrel is melted,
and has boiled a few minntes, turn it ont on to a large hair-sieve, there
to remain until the water has run off. Next, cat two large onions
into thin slices, place these in a stewpan, with two ounces of fresh
butter, and put them to fry of a light color on the stove-fire; after
which, add a good tablespoonful of flour, some grated nutmeg, a tea-
spoonful of sugar, some minionette pepper, and salt; moisten with
a gravy-spoonful of sauce, either white or brown, then add the sorrel,
prepared as above directed, and reduce the puree over a brisk fire,
stirring it the whole time with a wooden spoon; when the sorrel is
sufficiently reduced, rub it instantly through a tammy, and place it
in a small stewpan. Previously to using the puree, make it hot; add
a pat of butter and a piece of glaze.
114. PUREE OF ENDIVE.
Trim off all the outside leaves of a dozen full white-heart endives;
wash them thoroughly, and carefully remove all insects, &c; throw
the endives into a stewpan of boiling water, and, after allowing them
to remain boiling for the space of twenty minutes, immerse them in
cold water. When thus cool, squeeze each endive separately, entirely
extracting the water; then cut off the root end from each endive,
and after first chopping the leafy portion, place them in a stewpan
with two ounces of fresh butter, nutmeg, sugar, and salt; stir the
whole over a stove-fire with a wooden spoon for five minutes, moisten
with a ladleful of white broth, then cover with a round of buttered
paper, place the lid on the stewpan, and set it on a slow fire to con-
tinue very gently simmering for half an hour; next add a small
ladleful of white sauce and half a pint of cream, and reduce the
puree quickly on a brisk fire; as soon as it is reduced to its proper
consistency, instantly remove it into a small stewpan for use.
This kind of puree is usually rubbed through a coarse hair-sieve in
preference to a tammy.
115. PUREE OF CHESTNUTS.
Slit the husks of fifty chestnuts, and place them in a stewpan
with a piece of butter; put the lid on the stewpan, and set it on a
slow fire, taking care, now and then, to toss up the chestnuts, so that
they may get an equal degree of heat; in about twenty minutes the
husks will easily peel off, and should then be removed. Put the
chestnuts into a clean stewpan with a ladleful of good consomme, and
place the lid thereon; set them to simmer gently on the corner of
the stove; when they are done, pound them in a mortar, take them
op into a deep sauta-pan, and a little sugar, nutmeg, and half a pint
of cream ; reduce the purie, and rub it through a tammy on to a dish;
remove it into a small stewpan; and just before using it, make it hot,
mix in a small pat of butter and a piece of glaze.
116. PUREE OF POTATOES.
Peel and wash eight potatoes, cut them into slices, and place them
in a stewpan with two ounces of butter, some minionette pepper,


60 PUREES OF
sait, and a little nutmeg; moisten with a pint of white broth, put
the lid on the stewpan, and set it to boil on the fire. By the time
the broth is reduced, the potatoes will be done; then add half a pint
of cream, and with a wooden spoon reduce the purie on the fire to
the usual consistency of mashed potatoes; rub the puree through the
tammy on to a dish, and then remove it into a small stewpan; pre-
viously to using it, add a pat of butter.
117. PUREE OF ARTICHOKES.
First, pick off the outer leaves of six young full-grown artichokes;
then turn, or pare off with a knife, the whole of the outer green part
of the bottom of the artichokes, so as to leave it white; when this is
finished, rub each artichoke thus turned with a piece of lemon, and
put them directly into a pan of water with a little vinegar in it
.
Then place the artichokes in a stewpan with boiling water, a little
butter, lemon-juice, salt, and minionette pepper; after three-quarters
of an hour's gentle boiling, take the artichokes up, extract the fibrous
interior from each, and place them in a deep sauta-pan with a ladleful
of white sauce, half a pint of cream, nutmeg, a little salt, and a tea-
spoonful of sugar; reduce the puree quickly over a brisk fire, stirring
it the whole time with a wooden spoon, and then rub it through a
tammy; after which remove it into a small stewpan; finish with a
pat of butter, and a small piece of glaze.
118. PUREE OF ASPARAGUS.
Break off the tender portions of a bundle of sprue asparagus, wash
them in a large pan, with a good handful of green onions and double
that quantity of picked parsley; set these on the fire to boil in an
untinned pan half full of boiling water, and throw in a spoonful of
salt; as soon as the asparagus are done, drain them in a sieve, and
remove all the water. Put the asparagus, parsley, and green onions,
altogether into a deep sauta-pan, with a small ladleful of white sauce,
the crumb of a French roll (that has previously been soaked in
water, and afterward pressed in a napkin to remove the moisture),
some grated nutmeg, a little salt, and a teaspoonful of sugar; reduce
the purie quickly on the fire, rub it through a tammy on to a dish, and
from thence remove it into a small stewpan, and keep it in the cool
until wanted for use. Finish by adding a pat of fresh butter, a piece
of glaze, and some spinach-green, if required, to give it a bright-
green color.
119. PUREE OF ONIONS A LA SOUBISE.
Peel and cut into slices eight large onions, parboil them in water
for five minutes, drain them on a sieve, immerse them in cold water,
and press them in a napkin to extract the water; place them in a
stewpan with two ounces of butter, nutmeg, minionette pepper, a
little salt, and a spoonful of white broth; put a round of buttered
paper on them, and cover the stewpan with its lid; and set it on a
very slow fire to simmer gently for half an hour. Then turn the
onions out into a deep sauta-pan, moisten with a small ladleful of
good white sauce, and half a pint of cream, reduce the puree quickly
on a sharp fire, rub it through a tammy on to a dish, and take it up
into a small stewpan. Just before using it, add a pinch of sugar.


VEGETABLES FOR GARNISHING. 61
When this puree is required to be made very firm and thick, it ia
necessary to increase the quantity of onions used for the purpose, and
to add a couple of hot mealy potatoes.
120. PUREE OF TOMATAS.
Cut four ounces of raw ham into small pieces, and place them in a
stewpan with two shalots, a bay-leaf, a, sprig of thyme, two cloves, a
blade of mace, and a few peppercorns ; add a small piece of butter, and
fry these ingredients on the fire of a light color; to this add either a
dozen squeezed ripe tomatas, or a sufficient quantity of preserve of
tomatas, and a small ladleful of Velouie sauce; reduce the puree thns
prepared on a quick fire; then rub it through a tammy, and place it
in a small stewpan for use. Finish by adding a little glaze and a
small piece of fresh butter, jnst before sending to table.
121. PUREE OF TRUFFLES.
First peel and then pound ten ounces of truffles; put them into
a stewpan with a pat of butter, half a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, some
grated nutmeg, and a very small clove of garlic: set these on the
stove to simmer for a few minutes, then add a small ladleful of brown
sauce and a small piece of glaze; reduce the purie quickly, and rub it
through the tammy on to a dish; remove it from thence into a small
bain-marie for use.
Omit the garlic, should its flavor be objectionable.
122. PUREE OF MUSHROOMS.
Cleah a pottle of white button mushrooms, chop them up, adding
meanwhile the juice of half a lemon to prevent them from turning
black; when chopped fine, place them in a deep sauta-pan with a pat
of butter, and with a wooden spoon stir them on the fire for five min-
utes; moisten with a ladleful of good white sauce, reduce the puree
quickly, and then add half a pint of double cream; stir the purie on
the fire for five minutes longer, rub it through a tammy on to a dish,
and from thence remove it into a small stewpan for use.
123. PUREE OF BRUSSELS SPROUTS.
Bon. a good plateful of Brussels sprouts, place them in a deep
nuta-pan with a ladleful of good white sauce, nutmeg, minionetta
pepper, a little salt, and a pinch of sugar; reduce the whole on a brisk
fire, stirring all the time with a wooden spoon; rub the purie through
.« tammy in the usual manner, and afterward put it into a small stew-
pan; previously to using the puree, add a little spinach-green, a pat
of butter, and a piece of glaze.
124. PUREE OF CUCUMBERS.
Mince two ounces of lean ham, place it in a small stewpan with a
pat of butter, a little nutmeg, and a few peppercorns; to these add
four encumbers, trimmed and cut up for the purpose; set the stewpan
on a slow fire, there to simmer for twenty minutes, at the expiration
of which time add a small ladleful of white sauce; reduce the puree
quickly on a brisk stove, and when it assumes the appearance of a soft
paste, pour in half a pint of good sweet double cream and a teaspoon-
ful of sugar; reduce the puree for five minutes longer on the fire, and


62
GARNISHES
then nib it through the tammy in the usual manner, and take it up
into a small stewpan for use.
125. PUREE OF FRENCH BEANS.
Sheed a good plateful of French beans, boil them quickly of a green
color, taking care to boil with them a handful of picked parsley and
a few green onions; when they are done, drain the whole on a sieve,
and afterward place them in a deep santa-pan with a gravy-spoonful
of good white sauce, a piece of glaze, and a little sugar; reduce the
puree on the fire, and then rub it through a tammy, take it up into a
small stewpan, and just before using it mix in a small pat of butter and
a little spinach-green.
126. PUREE OF JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES.
This purie is made exactly in the same manner as the purie of
potatoes, merely substituting Jerusalem artichokes for potatoes.
127. PUREE OF SEAKALE.
Boil a punnet of good white seakale, and drain it on a napkin; cut
it into half-inch lengths, and place it in a stewpan with two ounces
of fresh butter, some minionette pepper, nutmeg, salt, a little sugar,
and some white broth; place thereon a round of buttered paper, and
cover the stewpan with its lid; set it on a moderate fire to simmer
for twenty minutes, then add a small ladleful of good white sauce;
reduce the puree quickly to the condition of a soft paste, and then
add half a pint of cream; after reducing it five minutes longer, rub
the purie through the tammy, and take it up into a small stewpan for
use.
VEGETABLES FOR GARNISHING,
COMPRISING
Oarnish of Truffles in Glare.
„ d la Paritienne.
„ in Suprfme.
„ of whole Truffles.
„ Mushrooms d I'AUcmande.
„ do. in ErpagnoU,
„ of young Carrots.
„ Carrots cut in fancy shapes.
„ Turnips.
„ Carrots and Turnips A la Ni-
vernaise.
„ Cucumbers in scollops.
„ Cucumbers farcU.
„ Celery d la crime,
n Celery d V Knpngnole.
„ Young Carrots d la Flamande.
„ White Macfdoineol vegetables.
„ Brown do.
„ Green Peas.
„ Stewed Peas.
Garnish of Asparagus-heads.
Asparagus Peas.
Button Onions, for matdottt.
White Button Onions.
Windsor Beans.
French Beans.
Artiohoke Bottoms.
Glazed Onions.
Brocoli, or Cauliflower.
Brussels Sprouts.
Chestnuts for roast Turkey.
Jerusalem Artichokes.
Cloves of Gurlic
White Haricot-Beans.
Red Haricot-Beans.
Braised Cabbage Lettuces.
Braised Cabbages.
Stewed Red Cabbages.
Saue'rkraut.
Sauerkraut d la Franeaitt,


OF VEGETABLES. 63
128. GARNISH OF TRUFFLES IN GLAZE.
Cut about one pound of truffles in various fancy shapes, such as
small round balls, olives, or like quarters of orange, small pillars,
and circular scollops; place them in a small stewpan, with a little
fresh butter, a pinch of salt, and a piece of glaze; put on the lid of
the stewpan, and set it on a slow fire to simmer for five or ten
minutes; toss the truffles thus prepared in their glaze, and use them
to garnish the centre of an entree, or for any other appropriate pur-
pose.
129. GARNISH OF TRUFFLES A LA PARISIENNE.
Prepare the truffles as directed in the foregoing case, and, having
boiled them down in their glaze, add a good ragout-spoouful of
Parisian sauce (No. 40).
130. GARNISH OF TRUFFLES WITH SUPREME SAUCE.
Prepare the trnffles in fancy shapes, simmer them with a small
quantity of butter and glaze, and boil them down in their glaze; then
add a spoonful of Suprime sauce. This garnish may be served with
all entrees, fillets of poultry, or game.
131. GARNISH OF WHOLE TRUFFLES.
Brush and clean any quantity required of fine fresh truffles, boil
them in a wine mirepoix (for making which see No. 236)—one hour's
gentle boiling will suffice; just before using them, take the truffles out
of the mirepoix, glaze them, and dispose them round or about the
entree or remove in a circle or in groups.
132. GARNISH OF MUSHROOMS IN ALLEMANDE SAUCE.
Clean and turn a pottle of mushrooms, put them into a small stew-
pan with an ounce of butter, a little salt, the juice of a lemon, and
about two tablespoonsful of water; boil them quickly on the fire for
five minutes, drain the mushrooms, and put them into a bain-marie con-
taining a large ragout-spoonful of Allemande sauce; reduce the liquor
the mushrooms were boiled in, and add it to the mushrooms. This
garnish is proper for all white entries, and especially for entrees of
game or fowl d la Dauphine or a la Villeroi.
133. GARNISH OF MUSHROOMS IN ESPAGNOLE SAUCE.
Prepare the mushrooms as directed in the foregoing recipe, drain
them on a napkin, and place them in a stewpan or bain-marie, with
sufficient finished Espagnole sauce, according to the quantity required,
adding the essence of the mushrooms, cleared from the butter, and re-
duced. This sauce is appropriate for every kind of brown entree.
134. GARNISH OF YOUNG CARROTS.
Turn a bunch of young carrots, keeping them in their own shape,
as far as may be consistent with uniformity of size; boil them in
water for three minutes, drain them on a sieve, place them in a stew-
pan with an ounce of sugar, a pat of butter and a little salt; moisten
* Tbii is the foundation of all garnishes of truffles and mushrooms ; an infinite variety
Bar be made by adding to the truffles prepared as above some special sauce, the addi-
tiua of which will then give its name to the garnish.


64 GARNISHES
with a pint of brotb or consomme, and set them to boil on the stove-
fire; when they are done, boil them down quickly to a glaze, roll the
carrots in this glaze, and use them to garnish the intended dish.
135. GARNISH OF CARROTS IN OLIVES, ETC.
Scrape and wash four good carrots-, cut the red part, either with a
small root-knife, vegetable scoop, or cutter, into various fancy shapes,
as olives, small round balls, pillars, half-moons, diamonds, or fluted
shapes; parboil, drain, and prepare them as directed above; fiuish
them in the same manner, and, having run them down in ther own
glaze, either use them as they are, or else add a ragout-spoonful of
Allemande, Bechamel, Suprime, or, indeed, any other kind of sauce
that may be appropriate for the dish they are*meaut to garnish.
136. GARNISH OF TURNIPS.
Peel four turnips, cut or turn them into fancy shapes, as directed
in the preceding article, boil them for three minutes, drain them on
a napkin, place them in a stewpan, with a little sugar, salt, and a small
pat of butter; moisten with some white broth, put them on the stove,
and, when they are nearly done, boil them down quickly in their glaze,
without allowing them to acquire much color. These turnips may be
used for a garnish, merely rolled in their own glaze, or a spoonful of
either Allemande, BSchamel, Supreme, or finished Espagnole sauce
may be added.
137. GARNISH OF CARROTS AND TURNIPS A LA NIVERNAISE.
Cut or turn the red part of three carrots into the shape of small
olives or round balls, place these in a small sauta-pan, with a little
clarified butter and a teaspoonful of pounded sugar; fry them on the
stove-fire, so as to give them a light color, then place them on a sieve
to drain off the butter, and put them into a small stewpan, with a
piece of fresh butter, a little sugar, and salt; moisten them with some
consommi, and set them to boil gradually until nearly done, when they
must boil rapidly to glaze. Having thus disposed of the carrots, pre-
pare an equal quantity of turnips, cut in a similar shape, and boil them
down to a glaze, similarly to the carrots, and when both are done, mix
them together, and use them for entrees of braized mutton, beef, or
any sort of cutlets.
138. GARNISH OF CUCUMHERS IN SCOLLOPS.
Cut three cucumbers into inch lengths; divide each piece, length-
wise, into two or more pieces, according to the size of the cucumber,
so that, when trimmed, they should be rather laVger in size than a
shilling; in trimming them, first scoop out the seedy part with a
small root-knife, then peel off the green rind and pare away the
angles slightly, so as to give them a somewhat rounded appearance.
Next, place them in a basin, with two spoonsful of French vinegar
and one of salt, and allow them to remain in this pickle, or marinade,
for about a couple of hours, then drain them on a sieve, and place
them in a stewpan, with a pat of butter, a lump of sugar, and a
ragout-spoonful of white consommi; set them on a slow fire to sim-
mer gently for half an hour, when they will be nearly done; boil
them down quickly to a glaze, and keep them separately until they


OF VEGETABLES. 65
are wanted for immediate use; then set them on the fire to boil, in
order to absorb any moisture they may have thrown out, previously to
adding a ragout-spoonful of Allemande, Bechamel, Supreme, or brown
sauce, as the case may require.
139. GARNISH OF CUCUMBERS FARCIS.
Cut three or more encumbers into two-inch lengths, with a vege-
table cutter, scoop out the seeds and peel off the green rind, pare
away the sharp angles at the ends, and then parboil them in water
for three minutes, plunge them in cold water, and put them to drain
on a napkin; then fill up the cavities with some quenelle force-meat
of fowls. Next garnish the bottom of a deep sauta-pan with some
thin layers of fat bacon; place therein the cucumbers thus prepared,
and in the centre put a fagot of parsley and green onions; cover
the whole with layers of fat bacon, and moisten with some white
consomme of chicken. Let them simmer very gently on a slow fire
for about an hour, aud just before the cucumbers are wanted for use,
drain them on a napkin, and then put them into another sauta-pan
with their own liquor, freed from all grease, and afterward reduced
to a demi-glaze; just roll the cucumbers lightly in this glaze over a
sharp fire, so as to cause the glaze to adhere to them, and thus give
them a bright appearance.
'This kind of garnish of encumbers is frequently used for whole
entries and removes, such as larded entrees of sweethreadS,./ricandeaux,
fillet of beef, carbonades, fowls, Ac, &c
140. GARNISH OF CELERY A LA CREME.
Trim and well wash six heads of full-sized white celery, cut them into
half-inch lengths, boil these in water for five minutes, drain them on a
sieve, and immerse them in cold water; then place them on a napkin.
Next, put the celery in a stewpan with a lump of sugar, a pat of butter,
a little salt, and grated nutmeg; moisten with a ladleful of white
consommi, and set it to boil gently on a stove-fire for about an hour;
as soon as the celery is well done, boil it down in its glaze, and then
add a spoonful of good reduced Bichamel sauce.
When this garnish is required as a sauce for fowls, &c, it will be
necessary to increase the quantity of Bechamel sauce, and also to add
a little cream.
141. GARNISH OF CELERY A L'ESPAGNOLE.
Prepare the celery as directed in the foregoing article, and when it
is thoroughly done, add a ragout-spoonful of finished Espagnole sauce
and a small piece of glaze.
142. GARNISH OF YOUNG CARROTS A LA FLAMANDE.
Turn a bunch of young carrots into the shape of small pears, boil
them in water for three minutes, drain them on a napkin, and then
place them in a stewpan with a pat of butter, one ounce of sugar, a
little salt, and grated nutmeg; moisten with a ladleful of consomme,
and set them to boil gently on a stove-fire for half an hour; as soon
ai they are done, boil them down to a glaze, and then add a ragout-
spoonful of good Allemande sauce, and a spoonful of blanched parsley
4


66 GARNISHES
leaves. This kind of garnish is very appropriate for braized beef, lamb,
and hams.
143. WHITE MACEDOINB OF VEGETABLES.
Prepare some carrots and turnips in fancy shapes of small size, let
each sort be separately boiled down to a glaze in a little broth, with
the addition of a little sugar and salt, and a very small piece of butter;
when done, put the whole together in a small sauta-pan; to these add
a cucumber cut up and prepared for the purpose in scollops, a spoon-
ful of boiled green peas, a spoonful of French beans cut in the shape
of diamonds, a spoonful of asparagus heads boiled green, and also
some very small flowrets of boiled cauliflower; add a gravy-spoonful
of AUemande, Bechamel, or Suprime sauce, a little nutmeg and sugar;
shake the whole lightly together over the stove-fire, and use this garnish
for the entree intended.
14^.
GARNISH OF BROWN MACEDOINE.
Prepare the vegetables for the Macedoine according to the direc-
tions given in the preceding recipe; when nearly ready, use some
finished Espagnole sauce, instead of the other sauces there mentioned.
145. GARNISH OF GREEN PEAS.
Boil about a pint of young peas, drain them, and place them in a
sauta-pan, then add a spoonful of Bechamel sauce, a pinch of sugar,
a little chopped and blanched mint, some nutmeg, a pat of butter, and
a piece of glaze; shake the whole up well together over the fire, and
serve them in the centre of an entree.
146. GARNISH OF STEWED PEAS.
Put a quart of young peas into a stewpan with four ounces of fresh
butter, on, these pour a quart of cold spring water, and commence
kneading the peas and butter together, with the hand, in the water; as
■oon as all the butter adheres to the peas, pour the water off, and then
add a dessert-spoonful of sugar, a little salt, an onion, and a fagot
of parsley, and green onions; set the peas to stew on a moderate fire;
when they are done, set them on a brisk fire to boil quickly, in order
that they may, by this means, absorb all their moisture; then add a
spoonful of Bechamel sauce, with a pat of butter, and dish them up in
the centre of an entrie.
147. GARNISH OF ASPARAGUS HEADS.
Trim and cut the heads of as many asparagus as may be required,
boil them green, and drain them on a napkin, then place them in a
sauta-pan with a spoonful of AUemande sauce, a little sugar, nutmeg,
and a piece of glaze; toss them gently over the fire, and serve.
148. GARNISH OF ASPARAGUS PEAS.
Cut a bundle of sprue asparagus into peas, boil them green, and
follow the directions contained in the foregoing article.
149. GARNISH OF BUTTON ONIONS FOR MATELOTTE.
Peel a pint of small button onions, boil them in water for five
minutes, drain them on a napkin, and afterward place them in a small


OF VEGETABLES. 67
stewpan with some clarified butter and a little pounded sugar; then
place the stewpan on a slow fire, and fry the onions of a light-brown
color, taking care to toss them up now and then that they mny be
equally colored; when sufficiently colored they will be nearly done.
Then place them on a sieve to allow the butter to drain, and put them
in a small stewpan with a lump of sugar and a little consommi;
lastly, set them on the fire and boil them down to a glaze.
150. GARNISH OF WHITE BUTTON ONIONS.
Peel and blanch a pint of small button onions, put them into a
stewpan with a pat of butter, a lump of sugar, a little salt, and A
ladleful of white broth; set them on the fire to boil gently for half an
hour, then boil them down quickly to a glaze, and finish by adding a
spoouful of Allemande sauce.
151. GARNISH OF WINDSOR BEANS.
Bon, a quart of young Windsor beans, peel off their husks, and place
them in a sauta-pan with a little pepper, salt, and nutmeg, a pat
of butter, and a spoonful of Bechamel sauce; throw in a spoonful
of chopped and blanched parsley, and a little winter savory; shake
the whole well together over the fire, and place them in the centre of
an entree.
152. GARNISH OF FRENCH BEANS.
Cct a plateful of French beans into the shape of diamonds, boil
them green, drain themjon a napkin, and then put them into a sauta-
pan with a pat of butter, a little pepper and salt, a spoonful of white
sauce, and a little lemon-juice; toss them well together on the fire, and
serve.
153. GARNISH OF ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS.
Remove the outer leaves from four artichokes, pare off with a knife
the green surface from the bottom of the artichokes, so as to render
them smooth and white; rub over each artichoke as it is finished with
lemon-juice, and instantly throw it into a basin of water in which a
little vinegar has been mixed; then boil them in a stewpan containing
hot water, a piece of butter, minionette pepper, salt, and a little lemon-
juice. When they are done, take them out, and after allowing them to
cool, extract the hay or inside fibres; trim them, and divide each arti-
choke into six pieces. Then place them in a sauta-pan with a spoonful
of Supreme sauce, a pat of butter, a little cream glaze, nutmeg, and
sugar; toss them gently on the fire, and when the whole is well mixed,
serve.
154. GARNISH OF GLAZED ONIONS.
Peel eighteen onions, of a similar size, with a small vegetable cutter,
scoop out the heads of their roots—perforating the onions through—
and extracting the centre from each; boil them from three to five min-
utes in water, drain them on a napkin, and then place them in a sauta-
pan well buttered, add a little sugar, and sufficient broth to cover the
onions; set them on the stove to boil, and afterward remove them to
a slow fire, or place them in the oven, to simmer gently down to a
glaze. Take care to turn the onions over in their glaze occasionally,
to that they may become equally colored.


68 GARNISHES
155. GARNISH OF BROCOLI OF CAULIFLOWER&
Cut one or more beads of cauliflower or brocoli into small buds,
trim these and boil them in a stewpan with some butter, salt, and a little
minionette pepper, in the water; when they are done, drain them on
a sieve, put them into a stewpan with a little Allemande or Bechamel
sauce and serve.
156. GARNISH OF BRUSSELS SPROUTS.
Boil a plateful of Brussels sprouts, drain them well, and put them
into a stewpan with a spoonful of white sance, tw» pats of butter, salt,
nutmeg, minionette pepper, and lemon-juice; toss the whole well
together over the fire, and serve.
157. GARNISH OF CHESTNUTS FOR ROAST TURKEY.
Slit the husks of fifty chestnuts, and put them into a stewpan with
a little clarified butter, fry them on a slow fire until the husks easily
peel off from the chestnuts; clean them thoroughly, and place them in
a stewpan with two lumps of sugar, a little salt, a pat of butter, and a
ladleful of good consommi; set them to boil, and then place them by
the side of the fire to continue boiling gently until they are nearly
done ; then boil them down to a glaze ; occasionally tossing them over,
so as to cover them with their own glaze, and give them a bright shiny
appearauce.
158. GARNISH OF JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES.
Peel a dozen Jerusalem artichokes, and then turn or cut them into
the shape of olives, small pillars, cloves of garlic, half moons, round
balls, quarters of orange, or diamonds; first wash them, place them
in a stewpan with a little sugar, salt, a pat of butter, and a ladleful
of white broth; set them to boil on the fire for about twenty minutes;
when they are nearly done, boil them down in their glaze, add a little
Allemande or BZchlmel sauce, toss them together over the fire, and
serve.
159. GARNISH OF CLOVES OF GARLIC.
Peel as many heads of garlic as will produce a pint of cloves,*
boil these for ten minutes in plenty of water, drain them on to a sieve,
and then place them in a stewpan with a pat of butter, some minio-
nette pepper, a little salt, and a ladleful of consomme; boil them gently
until they are nearly done, then let them boil down quickly to a glaze;
add a spoonful of Allemande or Espagnole sauce (according to the
color of the entree), and a little lemon-juice; toss them up over a stove-
fire, and serve.
160. GARNISH OF WHITE HARICOT BEANS.
Fresh white haricdt beans, in their proper season, form a very excel-
lent change among the more ordinary vegetables. Its cultivation is,
however, much neglected by gardeners in England.
When fresh haricot beans are not procurable, get a pint of dried
haricot beans, and steep them in cold water for twelve hours; let
them be washed and placed in a stewpan with a pat of butter, min-
* A head of garlic contains within its outer husk, or skin, a number of triangular
seeds, usually called cloves of garlic.


OF VEGETABLES. 69
ionette pepper, salt, and two quarts of cold water; set them to boll
gently by the side of a stove for about an hour; when done, drain them
on to a sieve, place them in a clean stewpan with a pat of butter, a
gravy-spoonful of white sauce, a little pepper and salt, lemon-juice, and
a spoonful of chopped and blanched parsley; shake them well together
over the fire, and serve.
161. GARNISH OF RED HARICOT BEANS.
These should be prepared exactly in the same manner as the white
beans. There is, also, a species of small brown peas, called lentils-r-to
be had of all oilmen, which may be prepared after the same method as
the haricdl beans. They are useful in the winter season, when there is
a scarcity of fresh vegetables. ,
162. GARNISH OF BRAIZED CABBAGES.
Trim, wash, and thoroughly cleanse four good Savoy cabbages, cut
them in halves, and boil them in water for a quarter of an hour; refresh
them in cold water, drain them, and place them on a napkin; cut the
stalks away, season them with salt and minionette pepper, tie them up
with a string—joining two halves together; cover the bottom of a
stewpan with thin layers of fat bacon, place the cabbages in it; add a
carrot, an onion stuck with three cloves, and a fagot of parsley, thyme,
and bay-leaf; moisten with sufficient broth to cover the cabbages, and
spread a buttered round of paper over the whole; then set them on
the fire to boil, place the lid on the stewpan and allow it to remain
gently boiling on a very slow fire for abont an hour, when they will be
done. Then drain the cabbage on to a sieve, remove the strings, press
h in a napkin so as to be able, afterward, to cut it into square, oblong,
round, or oval shapes, according to taste; and therewith garnish the
entree or remove it is intended for.
i . ••,.i** i"1 •' .
163. GARNISH OF STEWED RED CABBAGES.
fKL>:'" vo L
Trim, wash, and quarter a couple of red cabbages, shred them as you
would if about to make pickled cabbage; then put about four ounces
of butter at the bottom of a stewpan, and place the shred cabbages in
it; season with minionette pepper and salt, and half a gill of French
vinegar, cover the stewpan with its lid, and set it on a moderate fire to
stew gently; take care to stir it occasionally with a wooden spoon.
When the cabbage has, by melting, been reduced to half its original
quantity, moisten with a large-sized ladleful of topping from the boiling
stockpot, to nourish the cabbage; allow it to simmer gently on a slow
fire for an hour longer; then drain the cabbage on a sieve, afterward
press it in a napkjn to extract the butter, &c, and use it for the purpose
of garnishing the entree or remove for which it has been prepared.
164. GARNISH OF BRAIZED CABBAGE LETTUCES.
Trim, wash, and blanch a dozen full white-heart cabbage lettuces;
drain them on a napkin, cut and spread them open, season with pepper
and salt, tie them up with a string, and place them in a stewpan on thin
layers of fat bacon; add a carrot, a fagot of parsley and green onions,
and an onion stuck with two cloves; cover with a buttered round of
paper, and moisten with the toppings of white stock. Allow them to


70 GARNISHES.
boil gently by the sida of the fire for an hour, drain them on a sieve,
remove the strings, press them neatly in a napkin, and open each
lettuce with a knife; then smooth the inner part, and with the knife
turn the ends of the leaves under so as to give to the lettuce a smooth
rounded end; cut off the stalk neatly, and place each lettuce succes-
sively in a clean sauta-pan; next pass their liquor through a sieve into
a stewpan, remove every particle of grease, and boil it down to the con-
sistency of half-glnze; add it to the lettuces, cover them with a buttered
paper, and a quarter of an hour previously to their being required for
use, set them in the oven to get warm.
165. SAUERKRAUT.
Procure two pounds of fresh imported sauerkraut, wash it tho-
roughly in several waters, and then drain it in a colander. Next, put
it into a stewpan with one pound of parboiled streaky bacon, one pound
of German sausage, two carrots, two onions stuck with two cloves each,
and a garnished fagot of parsley; cover with a round of buttered
paper, and moisten with a quart of stockpot toppings. Braize the
sauerkraut for about three hours over a slow fire; and when done, drain
it in a colander, remove the bacon and German sausage, throw away
the carrot, onion, and fagot; then put the sauerkraut into a stewpan
with a gravy-spoonful of Poivrade sauce, toss it over the fire, and use
it to garnish the intended dish.
166. FRENCH SAUERKRAUT.
Split four white-heart cabbages into quarters, remove the cores, and
shred them up fine; wash them thoroughly in several waters, then drain
them in a colander. Next, place the shred cabbages in a large earthen
pan, throw in a good handful of salt and one pint of vinegar; toss the
cabbage in this, and allow it to steep for three hours; then wash and
drain it, and put it into a large stewpan, season with half a pound of
butter, some minionette pepper, a little salt, and a gill of French
vinegar; place on the top one pound of streaky bacon, and one pound
of German sausage, moisten with a quart of good stock, cover the whole
with buttered paper, and then set the sauerkraut to braize very gently
over a slow fire for two hours; and when it is done, proceed in the
same manner as directed in the previous article.


71
ESSENCES, GRAVIES, AND PREPARED SAVORY BUT-
TERS FOR FINISHING SAUCES, Ac,
COMPRISING
Essence of Shalota. Essence of Sage and Onions for geese and
„ Truffles. ducks.
„ Mushrooms. ,, Onions for broiled pork.
„ Fine Herbs for broiled meats. „ Anchor; butter.
„ Orange for wild fowL Jtavigollt butter.
„ Aspic-jelly. Provencalt do.
„ Woodcocks. Lobster do.
„ Game for broiled partridges, Ac. MontptUier do.
„ Garlic for broiled fowls, Ac. Crayfish do.
„ Anchovies for broiled steaks, Green ravigottt do.
Ac. Epicurean do.
167. ESSENCE OF SHALOTS.
Peel a dozen shalots, cut them into thin slices, and place them in a
small stewpan with two tablespoonsful of French vinegar; set them to
simmer gently on the fire until the vinegar is nearly boiled down; then
moisten with a pint of consommi, set the essence on the fire to boil, and
when it is reduced to half its original quantity, strain it with pressure
through a napkin into a bain-marie, and keep it hot till wanted.
168. ESSENCE OF TRUFFLES.
Chop or pound four ounces of truffles—or if you have any trimmings,
nse them instead; place them in a small stewpan with half a bay-leaf,
a sprig of thyme, and a very small quantity of bruised garlic; moisten
with a glass of French white wine, and allow the whole to simmer on
the fire till the wine is nearly boiled down; add half a pint of good
consommi; set the essence to boil gently on the side of the fire for ten
minutes, and then pass it with pressure through a napkin o% tammy
into a small basin or stewpan.
This essence will be found extremely useful for flavoring sauces and
ragouts, in which the flavor of truffles should predominate.
169. ESSENCE OF MUSHROOMS.
Chop any quantity of mushrooms, place these in a stewpan with a
little lemon-juice and a small piece of butter, simmer them on the fire
for two or three minutes, and then moisten with a ladleful of white
broth; set the essence to boil gently on the stove for ten minutes, and
then pass it with pressure through a sieve into a basin for use.
This essence is useful for flavoring sauces.
170. ESSENCE OF FINE HERBS FOR BROILED MEATS, ETC.
Chop six shalots, a handful of mushrooms, and the same quantity
of parsley, each separately; place these in a small stewpan with a sprig
of thyme, half a bay-leaf, and a small piece of butter; put the whole
on the fire to simmer gently for two or three minutes, stirring the
ingredients with a wooden spoon; moisten with the juice of half a


72 ESSENCES AND GRAVIES
lemon and a ladleful of strong consommi; add a little minionette
pepper, and then set the essence to boil gently on the side of the fire
till it is reduced to half its original quantity; then pass it with pressure
throngh a sieve, and use it as a gravy for plain broiled bread-crumbed
entries.
171. ESSENCE OF ORANGE FOR WILD FOWL.
Chop two shalots and put them into a small stewpan with the rind
of an orange, quite free from the white or pith, and a little chopped
lean of raw ham and cayenne pepper; moisten with two glasses of port
wine and a little strong gravy; set the essence to simmer gently on the
fire for about ten minutes, then add the juice of the orange with a little
lemon-juice, and pass it through a silk sieve.
172. ESSENCE OF ASPIC-JELLY.
Put the following ingredients into a small stewpan: a few branches
of green tarragon, a little chervil, a handful of chives, a bay-leaf, and
sprig of thyme, mignionette pepper, a blade of mace, and a little
chopped raw lean of ham; moisten with a large ladleful of good con-
sommi; set the essence to boil gently by the side of the fire for about
ten minutes. Next, take it off the stove, proceed to clarify by mixing
with it half the white of an egg whipped up with a spoonful of water;
add a spoonful of tarragon-vinegar, and place it on the fire to boil,
whipping it with a wire whisk the while; as soon as it boils up,
remove it on the side, to continue boiling gently in order to set the
egg; then strain it through a napkin, and use it for braized fowls or
chickens d VEstragon or d VIvoire.
173. ESSENCE OF WOODCOCKS.
Chop up any carcasses of woodcocks or snipes that may be left from
the previous day's dinner, place them in a small stewpan with four
shalots, a bay-leaf, and a sprig of thyme, mignionette pepper, a little
mace, and a small piece of butter; fry the whole on the stove-fire till
the ingredients become lightly colored; moisten with a small glass of
white wine; and after allowing it to boil down to a glaze, add a ladleful
of good consommi, and set the esseuce to boil gently on the side of the
fire for half an hour; skim and strain it through a silk sieve, aud finish
by adding a little lemon-juice.
This essence or gravy should be sent to table with roasted wood-
cocks or snipes; it will also be found useful for making a light hash
of remuants of woodcocks or snipes, for breakfast.
174. ESSENCE OF GAME FOB BROILED PARTRIDGES, ETC.
This essence is prepared in the same manner as the preceding,
substituting the remuants or carcasses of pheasants or partridges, for
woodcocks.
175. ESSENCE OF GARLIC FOR BROILED FOWL.
Chop a little raw lean of ham, some parsley, thyme, and a bay-
leaf; place these in a small stewpan with a blade of mace, two
pounded anchovies, and six cloves of garlic; moisten with two tea-
spoonsful of French vinegar, and set the whole on the fire to simmer
gently for five minutes; add a small piece of glaze and a ladleful of


FOR FINISHING SAUCES. 73
good blond of veal, and allow the essence to boil gently by the side of
the fire for a quarter of an hour; reduce it to half its' original quantity,
and then strain it through a tammy into a small stewpan; finish by.
adding a little lemon-juice and cayenne pepper.
176. ESSENCE OF ANCHOVIES FOR STEAKS, ETC.
Wash and clean six anchovies, pound them in a mortar, with a
tablespoonful of capers and two shalots; place these in a small
stewpan with thyme and a bay-leaf, mace, minionette pepper, and
two tablespoonsful of mushroom catsup; set these ingredients on the
fire to simmer gently for five minutes, and then moisten with a ladle-
ful of good consomme'; boil the whole till reduced to half its original
quantity, then strain it with pressure through a tammy into a small
stewpan; finish by adding a small piece of glaze and a little lemon-
juice.
177. ESSENCE OF SAGE AND ONIONS FOR GEESE AND DUCKS.
Chop two large onions and a dozen sage-leaves separately, put them
into a small stewpan with a pat of butter, some pepper and salt, and
fry them on a slow fire; as soon as the onion begins to get lightly-
colored, moisten with a ladleful of blond of veal, and allow the essence
to boil on the fire till reduced to half the quantity; strain it through a
tammy into a small stepwuu for use.
This gravy may also, be used for bread-crumbled entries of broiled
pork.
178. ESSENCE OF ONIONS FOR BROILED PORK.
Cut three onions into slices, and fry them in a small stewpan with a
little butter, pepper, and salt; when they are of a light color, moisten
with a ladleful* of blond of veal; reduce the essence by boiling to half
its quantity, and strain it into a bain-marie for use.
179. ANCHOVY BUTTER.
Wash and wipe dry six anchovies, separate the fillets from the
bones, and pound them in a mortar, with two pats of butter and a
little cayenne pepper; rub this mixture through a hair-sieve, gather
this up and keep it in a small basin for use, in a cool place.
180. RAVIGOTTE BUTTER.
Wash and wipe four anchovies, blanch a good handful of green
tarragon, chervil, burnet, chives, and parsley; press these in a napkin
to expunge the water; and put the anchovies, herbs, two pats of
butter, a spoonful of capers, a little cayenne pepper, and a pinch of
salt, into a mortar, and pound them well together; then rub the mix-
ture through a hair-sieve, gather it up, and keep in a small basin on
the ice for use.
181. PROVENCALE BUTTER.
This is prepared in the same manner as the preceding, adding, how-
ever, four cloves of garlic to the other ingredients.
• Whenerer the term ladleful occurs in the course of this work it refer! to a howl-
ihsped ipooo, capable of holding about a pint.


74 ESSENCES AND GRAVIES.
182. LOBSTER BUTTER.
Procure some lobster spawn or coral, and pound it with twice as
much butter, one anchovy, and a little-cayenne pepper; rub it through
a hair-sieve, collect it into a small basin, and keep it in a cool place
till wanted for use.
183. MONTPELLIER BUTTER.
Blanch some tarragon, chervil, burnet, chives, and parsley, a hand-
ful of each; expunge the water, and ponnd them with the yelks of six
boiled eggs, six cleaned anchovies, two tablespoonsful of French capers,
and half a dozen green gherkins; when these ingredients are thoroughly
pounded together, mix in six ounces of fresh butter, then add, by-
degrees, two tablespoonsful of Tarragon-vinegar, and six of salad-oil;
season with pepper and salt; rub the butter thus prepared through a
sieve or tammy, color it with some spinach-green, and keep it in a
basin on the ice till wanted for use.
184. CRAYFISH BUTTER.
Remove the shells from three or four dozen crayfish, place them
on a baking-sheet in the oven to dry; let the shells cool, and then
pound them in a mortar, with a little lobster coral and four ounces
of fresh butter; thoroughly bruise the whole well together, so as to
form them into a kind of paste, put this into a stewpan, and then set it
on the stove-fire to s'immer for about five minutes; then rub it
through a tammy with considerable pressure into a basin containing
some cold water, with a piece of ice in it; as soon as the colored
crayfish butter is become set, through the coldness of the water,
take it out, and put it into a small basin in a cool place till wanted
for use.
185. GREEN RAVIGOTTE BUTTER.
Blanch a handful of tarragon, chervil, burnet, chives, and parsley;
press them in a napkin, and pound them with four ounces of fresh
butter, cayenne pepper and salt; rub the butter through a hair-sieve,
and keep it on the ice in a small basin for use.
186. EPICUREAN BUTTER FOR THE TABLE.
Pound four cleaned anchovies, a few chives, a good teaspoonful of
green tarragon-leaves, four green West India gherkins, two boiled
yelks of eggs, three ounces of butter, and a good teaspoonful of
French mustard; mix thoroughly, season with little salt, and rub
the butter through a hair-sieve; gather it up into a small basin,
make it sufficiently firm by keeping it on the ice, and mould it into
pats for the purpose of being sent to table to be served with the
cheese.


75
RAGOUTS AND GARNISHES IN GENERAL,
Touloate ragout. Ragout of soft roes of maokoroL
Fimaneiire do. Cardinal ragout.
Calf a head do. d la Tortue. Ragout of scollops of solos.
Do. of salmon or trout.
Straibourg do. of fat lirera, Parisian ragout.
Pfrigueux do. Ragout of scollops of game, «c.
Matelotte do. Do. of larks.
Do. Sormande do. Do. of cock's kernels, d la Soubite.
Bourguignotto do. Richelieu ragout.
'Crayfish do. Ragout of chicken's wings.
Roufnaiee do. Do. of <
of scollops of sweetbreads. Do. of sheep'! tongues, i I'e car late.
Regent's ragout.
187. TOTJLOUSE RAGOUT.
Prepare some fine large white cocks' combs and kernels, button
mushrooms, small scollops of sweetbread, and a proportionate
quantity of truffles turned in the shape of scollops or olives; place
these in a small stewpan, and add thereto a small ladleful of Alle-
mande or Supreme sauce; toss the whole together over the fire a few
minutes, it will then be ready for use.
188. FINANCIERE RAGOUT.
Place in a stewpan a similar ragout to the foregoing, with an equal
portion of small quenelles, and add a small ladleful of well-finished
Financiere sauce; allow the whole to boil slightly on the fire. Use
this ragout for garnishing the remove or entree, as the case may be.
189. calf's head ragout a la tortue.
Put a large gravy-spoonful of fine white cocks' combs into a bain-
marie or stewpan, a similar quantity of cocks' kernels, small truffles,
button mushrooms, quenelles, and green gherkins, cut into the shape
of olives; to these add a sufficient quantity of Turtle sauce (No. 9)
for the purpose, and set the whole ou the fire to boil for a minute or
two, and serve.
190. CHIPOLATA RAGOUT.
Twist one pound of pork sausages into small round balls, sepa-
rate these, fry them, and when they are cold, trim and put them into
a bain-marie containing a proportionate quantity of cocks' combs and
kernels, button mushrooms, truffles, quenelles, carrots, and turnips,
turned in the shape of olives, and boiled down in their own glaze,
also some round balls of braized streaky bacon, and an equal pro-
portion of chestnuts, pealed and boiled in consomme; add a ladleful
of Financiere sauce (No. 8), a little essence of truffles and mushrooms;
then set the ragout on the fire to boil for two minutes, and serve.
Note The above is the simplest mode for preparing this ragout;
it is far better, however, that the whole of the ingredients of which
this very rich and popular ragout is composed should be kept sepa-


76 KAGOUTS.
rately in small stewpans, and be placed alternately in groups about
the dish they are meant to garnish and ornament; then the boiling
sauce should be poured over the turkey, capon, or poulards, when
ready to serve.
191. STRASBOURG RAGOUT OF FAT LIVERS.
Braize a fat liver in some mirepoix (No. 236), take it out to cool,
cut it into scollops, and trim them neatly; put them into a small
stewpan with some of the mirepoix freed from every particle of fat,
add a proportionate quantity of scolloped truffles, and just before
using these, set them on the stove and boil them down to a glaze;
add a sufficient quantity of Financiere sauce, and serve.
192. PERIGUEUX RAGOUT.
Prepare some scollops of fat livers and truffles, as for the fore-
going ragout; to these add some small quenelles, cocks' combs and
kernels, and some button mushrooms; then add a ladleful of
Perigueux sauce (No. 23), and boil the whole together for two or
three minutes.
193. MATELOTTE RAGOUT.
Peel and blanch half a pint of button onions, fry them of a light-
brown color over a slow fire; when doue, drain them on to a sieve,
in order to free them from the butter, and place them in a bain-marie
with an equal quantity of white button mushrooms, crayfish tails, and
small quenelles of whiting; to these add a ladleful of Matelotle sauce
(No. 31), and after allowing the ragout to boil for two or three minutes,
use it for garnishing the Matelotte, or any other dressed colored fish
it is intended for.
194. MATELOTTE NORMANDE RAGOUT.
Prepare thirty crayfish tails, and place them in a stewpan with
about half a pint of muscles, three dozen of parboiled oysters, and
an equal proportion of white button mushrooms; to these add a
ladleful of Matelotle Normande 6auce (No. 32), allow the whole to boil
up a minute or two on the stove, and use the ragout to garnish soles
or other fish for which it is prepared.
195. BOURGUIGNOTTE RAGOUT.
Peel and blanch half a pint of small button onions, put thern
into a stewpan with a lump of sugar, a little grated nutmeg, and a
pat of butter, moisten with half a pint of good broth, and set the
onions to stew gently on a moderate fire; when nearly done, boil
them down to a glaze, and add them to an equal quantity of white
button mushrooms and very small quenelles; to these put sufficient
Bourguignotte sauce (No. 28) for the purpose required ; allow the ra-
gout to boil up on the stove-fire for a minute or two, and use it to
garnish the entree it may be intended for. v
196. CRAYFISH RAGOUT.
Take out and trim the tails of thirty crayfish; with the bodies
ana shells make some crayfish butter (No. 184), to be used in color-
ing some quenelles of whitings, afterward moulded with teaspoons,
poached, aud placed with the crayfish; to these add some Allemande


RAGOUTS. 77
or Suprime sauce, with which mix in a little of the hotter made with
the shells of the crayfish, and serve the ragout with the dish it ia
rueaut for.
197. BOUENAISE RAGOUT.
Prepare an equal proportion of the following shell-fish—oysters,
muscles, and shrimps; to these add some button mushrooms and
quenelles of lobster, and moisten the ragout with a sauce made in the
following manner: reduce some of the liquor of the muscles, oysters,
and mushrooms, with two glasses of French white wine, and the
addition of a small ladleful of Veloute sauce; finish by mixing in four
yelks of eggs, a pat of butter, and a little cream: stir the sauce
on the stove-fire till it boils, and then pass it through a tammy on to
the ragout. Before sending it to table, add a spoonful of chopped and
blanched parsley, and the juice of half a lemon.
About a dozen smelts, trussed in the same manner as whiting for
frying, and boiled in a little salt and water, and afterward skinned
and glazed, should be prepared to garnish round the fish with which
the Rouenaise ragout is served.
198. RAGOUT OF SCOLLOPS OF SWEETBREADS.
First blanch, and then braize, a little white broth, three or more
throat sweetbreads, for about twenty minutes; then take them up on
a plate, and allow them to cool; cut them into neat scollops and
place them in a small stewpan with a small ladleful of any sort of
sauce appropriate to the entree which this ragout is intended t«
garnish.
A similar kind of ragout may be prepared with lambs' sweethreads,
calf's, sheep's, or lamb's brains.
199. BAGOUT OF SOFT ROES OF MACKEREL, OR OTHER FISH.
Parboil the soft roes of six mackerel or carp, in a little boiling
water mixed with two spoonsful of French vinegar and a little salt;
drain them on a napkin, and put them into a sauta-pan containing
some Allemande or Supreme sauce; add some chopped and blanched
parsley, and a little nutmeg and lemon-juice; toss the whole gently
together over the fire, taking care not to break or bruise the roes,
and place them in the centre of the fillets of fish prepared to receive
them.
200. CARDINAL RAGOUT.
Prepare two dozen small quenelles of lobster, which place in a
stewpan, with thirty picked and trimmed prawns' tails, two dozen
button mushrooms, and a similar quantity of small round truffles;
to these add a sufficient quantity of cardinal sauce for the remove or
entrie; then boil the ragout for three minutes on the fire, when it will
be ready for use.
201. BAGOUT OF SCOLLOPS OF SOLES, ETC.
Fiixet two pairs of soles, or a proportionate quantity of any other
•ort of fish, place them in a sauta-pan with some clarified butter,
pepper, salt, and lemon-juice; cover them with a ronnd of buttered
paper, and set them in the oven for about ten minutes; when they
•re done, drain them on a napkin, and afterward place them on a


78
RAGOUTS.
dish to put them in the larder to cool; next cut them into neatly-
trimmed scollops, and pat these into a stewpan; add either some
Allemande, Bechamel, Supreme, or Dutch sauce, whichever is most
suitable for the kind of fish these scollops are intended to garnish.
202. RAGOUT OF SCOLLOPS OF SALMON OR TROUT.
These scollops should be prepared in every respect in the same
manner as the foregoing, except that, previously to adding the sauce
a little lobster butter, cayenne, and lemon-juice should be mixed in.
203. PARISIAN RAGOUT.
An equal quantity of trimmed crayfish tails, button mushrooms,
small round truffles, and cocks' kernels should be put into a stewpan
containing some Parisian sauce (No. 40); make the ragout hot pre-
viously to using it.
204. RAGOUT OF SCOLLOPS OF POULTRY OR GAME.
Fillet one or more heads of poultry or game, according to the
quantity of ragout required; trim, and place them in a sauta-pan with
a little clarified fresh butter, season with a little salt, cover them
with a buttered paper, and set them over a moderate fire to simmer;
as soon as they become firm and white on the under side, turn them
over that they may be effectually done through, taking care that they
do not become brown; then drain them ou a napkin, and cut them on
the slant into scollops, trim them neatly, and put them into a stewpan
with some Allemande, Bichamel, or Supreme sauce, previously reduced
with either an essence of fowl or game, as the case may be, according
to the nature of the scollops, whether of poultry or game.
205. RAGOUT OF SCOLLOPS OF LARKS.
Cut out, trim, and slightly simmer, in a little butter, the fillets of
two dozen larks; drain them on a napkin, and place them in a small
Btewpan, with a sauce made as follows: Fry the carcasses of the larks
in a stewpan, with a pat of butter, one shalot, half a bay-leaf, and a
sprig of thyme, a little salt and grated nutmeg; when they are of a
light-brown color, moisten with three glasses of French white wine;
allow the carcasses to stew gently on a moderate fire for half an hour;
pound the whole thoroughly, and rub it through a tammy into a pur&e;
take this up into a small stewpan, add a little reduced brown sauce,
and pour it on to the scollops; warm them with care, for if they
be allowed to boil, it will spoil the look of the puree, and render it
rough.
206. RAGOUT OF COCKS' KERNELS A LA SOUBISE.
Put about half a pound of cock's kernels, with cold water, into a
stewpan, let it stand by the side of a slow fire to remove the little
blood they contain, taking care that the water does not become too
warm; as soon as they whiten, drain them on a sieve, and put them
into a small stewpan, with a pat of butter, the juice of a lemon, and
a little salt, toss them over the fire for two or three minutes, moisten
with a little white chicken broth, and set them to simmer gently on
a slow fire for about ten minutes longer; they will be then done.
Drain them on a napkin, put them into a small stewpan, with a


RAGOUTS. 79
ragont-spoonful of Soubise saace and a little Allemande sance, toss
them gently over the fire till they are hot, and place them in the centre
of an entree of fillets of fowl d la Marechale, a la WUxelles.
207. RICHELIEU RAGOUT.
Prepare some quenelle force-meat of chicken, and before moulding
the quenelles, incorporate with it two spoonsful of brown purie of
onions (of which there must be prepared a sufficient quantity for the
sauce of the ragout); mould two dozen small quenelles, poach them,
and, after draining them on a napkin, put them into a small stewpan,
with a dozen white cocks' combs and a few scollops of fat livers; to
these add the remainder of the brown puree of onions, which must be
no thicker than sauce.
This ragout may be used for garnishing boudins a la Richelieu, or
any entries of poultry or game that are bread-crumbed and broiled.
208. RAGOUT OF CHICKENS' WINGS.
This ragout is only to be recommended when it happens that a
number of fowls or chickens have to be cut up for other purposes;
in such case, save the wings, which cut off close to the breast, bone
them neatly, without tearing or cutting the skin, and fill up the
cavity occasioned by taking the bone out with some quenelle force-
meat of fowl; shape them neatly and parboil them, immerse them
in cold yater, then drain and trim them. Line a stewpan with thin
layers of fat bacon, place the wings therein with a fagot of parsley,
thyme, a bay-leaf, and an onion; moisten with white broth, cover
them with a round of buttered paper, and set them to boil gently by
the side of the stove for about twenty minutes, when, if the fowls are
young, the wings will be done. Then drain the wings on a napkin,
and, when trimmed, put them into a small stewpan with some
Allemande sauce.
This ragout is more generally made use of for filling vol-au-vents,
casseroles of rice, and chartreuses; it is also useful, as an accessory,
for garnishing large removes.
209. RAGOUT OF OX-PALATES.
Steep six ox-palates in water for several hours, keeping the vessel
that contains them near the stove-fire, so that the water may become
gradually tepid, which materially helps to cleanse them; then scald
and scrape them clean, trim, wash, and set them to braize in some
blanc or poele (No. 230); about four hours will suffice. When the
palates are done, drain and put them in press between two dishes;
when cold, shape them out with a round cutter an inch in diameter,
and place them in a stewpan with a sufficient quantity of either of the
following sauces: Allemande, Bechamel, Suprime, Italienne, Finan-
ciere, Poivrade, or Tomata. This ragout is strictly appropriate only
for garnishing pates-chauds and vol-au-vents, but it may, in cases of
emergency, be served as an entree garnished round with croquettes, of
potatoes or fieurons of pastry.
210. RAGOUT OF SHEEP'S TONGUES A L'ECARLATE.
Boil and press eight sheeps' tongues that have been cured with
saltpetre; trim and cut them into round scollops, and then put these


80 BROTHS.
scollops into a small stewpan, with any kind of sauce that may be
suitable for the entree they are meant to garnish.
211. regent's RAGOUT.
Fillet an eel, cut it into scollops, and simmer these in a stewpan
with a little butter, chopped parsley, lemon-juice, pepper, and salt;
when done, drain the scollops on a napkin, and then put them into a
stewpan containing an equal proportion of white button mushrooms,
cocks' combs, small round truffles, and small quenelles of whiting
colored with lobster coral; to these add a small ladleful of Regency
sauce (No. 49), then allow the ragout to boil up on the stove-fire, and
use it for garnishing the dressed fish it is intended for.
BROTHS AND CONSOMMES IN GENERAL, FOR SOUPS,
&o.,
COMPRISING
Nutritive Soup. White Contommt of fowls.
Empotage or Contommt for soups in gen- „ „ pheasants or part-
eral. ridges.
Brown Contommt of fowls. Brown extract of larks, Ac. *
„ „ pheasants or part- „ „ hare or rabbit,
ridges. Common gravy.
„ „ rabbits. Blond of veal, or veal gravy.
212. NUTRITIVE SOUP.
Into a three-gallon stockpot, put a knuckle of veal, six pounds of
the shoulder part of beef (commonly called the gravy piece), and a
bone of roast beef or mutton. Fill the stockpot with cold water to
within two inches of the brim, and set it upon a stove-fire to boil,
taking care not to hurry its ebullition, but allow it to take place gently,
so that it may have time to throw up its skum; this should be re-
moved, as it rises to the surface, and a little cold water shonld be
thrown in occasionally to effect that purpose.
When the stock has thrown off all its skum, which will easily be per-
ceived by the water becoming clear again, lift it off the stove, and put
it by the side. Then proceed to garnish it with four leeks and two
heads of celery, trimmed and tied together, two good-sized carrots, two
turnips, and two onions, into each of which two cloves have been in-
serted; add one good tablespoonful of salt, and let the whole boil
gently for about three-quarters of an hour. During this time, an old
hen and a partridge should be partially roasted, and then put into the
stock; this should continue to boil during five hours uuremittingly:
care being taken that the stockpot be kept full.
Previously to the soup being served, take off every particle of fat
that appears on the surface, with a ladle; take out the vegetables—
carefully placing them on a napkin, then remove the fowl and the
partridge from the stock: these operations should be so managed as
not to disturb the brightness of the broth. Cut the fillets of the
fowl and the partridge into slices, and place them in the soup-tureen,


AND CONSOMMES. '81
and upon these put some of the vegetables (which have been drained
on the napkin) neatly cut with a vegetable cotter a quarter of an inch
in diameter; then pour in the broth, to which add a little brown con-
tommi of veal to give it color. Let it be sufficiently seasoned with
salt and a few grains of minionette pepper, then serve.
213. EMPOTAGE, OR CONSOMME FOR SOUPS IN GENERAL.
When preparing for company, take about thirty pounds of gravy
beef, and a similar quantity of knuckles of veal, together with four
wild rabbits, and put the whole into a large stockpot which has been
previously spread with butter, add common broth in sufficient quan-
tity so as nearly to cover the meat. Put the stockpot on the stove-
fire to boil until the broth is reduced to a light-colored glaze; then
fill it up with the remainder of the grand stock, and after it has
boiled and been skimmed, garnish it with carrots, turnips, leeks,
onions, and celery; add also two blades of mace and six cloves. In
all cases be sparing of salt, especially in the first stages of prepara-
tion. Allow the broth to boil gently on the side of the stove for six
hours, and then pass it into kitchen pans for further use.
In connection with this subject, I may here point out that, if it be
contemplated to have as one of the removes a piece of beef braized,
a saving provision may be effected by using, in the first instance,
instead of about thirty pounds of stock beef, only ten pounds of that
quality in preparing the grand stock; the deficiency being made up
by twenty pounds of sirloin. This latter must be boned, and the
fillet taken out, either to be used to ornament the remove, or for an
entree, as occasion may require; the meat must then be rolled up
tightly and strung round in the manner of Hambro' beef. This will
thus answer the double purpose of giving strength to the consomme,
and of serving afterward as a remove.
When the beef thus prepared has boiled gently in the stockpot for
about five hours, take it out and put it in press between two dishes
till wanted; it must be then trimmed, and placed in a long braizing-
pan with a little good stock to warm it in; glaze it nicely, and having
dished it up, garnish the remove with such vegetables as have been
prepared for the purpose.
214. CONSOMME OF FOWLS FOR SOUPS.
Take two or more fowls, according to the quality of broth re-
quired; roast them before a brisk fire until half done; and then put
them into a small, well-tinned stockpot, nearly filled up with water,
and place this on the fire to boil; skim the consommi, and then add
one good-sized carrot, two turnips, one onion, one head of celery, two
cloves, a small piece of mace, and a little salt. Set the stock on the
side of the stove to boil gently for about two hours, and then strain
it off for use.
This kind of consomme is admirably adapted for persons of delicate
health as a restorative. It is also very serviceable in imparting deli-
cacy of flavor to all clear soups.
215. BROWN CONSOMME OF PHEASANTS OR PARTRIDGES.
Roast off two pheasants, after having taken out the fillets for the
purpose' of making them into an entree', or four partridges may be
5


82' BROTHS
used, (removing the fillets in the same way); put them into a stockpot
with a small knuckle of veal, and about one pound of lean of ham; fill
tip with water, then set it on to boil on the stove-fire. Meanwhile slice
np a carrot, an onion, two turnips, a head of celery, and a leek: fry
these roots in a stewpan, with a small piece of butter, till they become
slightly browned, then throw them into the consomme, after having
previously well skimmed it. Add three cloves, a piece of mace, and
a little salt; let it boil gently about three hours, and then strain it
off for use. ,
This preparation will serve for all kinds of clear consomme soups,
such as au Chasseur, or a la Desclignac, &c
216. BROWN CONSOMME OF RABBITS.
Take three or four wild rabbits, cut them up in pieces, and put
them into a small stockpot with five pounds of knuckle of veal which
has been roasted enough to color it; fill up with light "broth or
water, then set it on the stove to boil, skim it well, and garnish with
carrot, onion, and celery, two cloves, a piece of mace, and a little
salt. Let this boil gently for three hours, and then strain it off for
use.
This consomme is very essential in clarifying Espagnole or brown
sauce, and is also serviceable for all soups in which quenelles of game
are served.
217. WHITE CONSOMME OF FOWLS.
Take two or more old hens or fowls, or, in their stead, the carcasses
of fowls, or any other sort of poultry you may have. Let them steep
in cold water to cleanse them from, any blood they may contain;
then drain and put them into an appropriate-sized stockpot or stew-
pan, and fill it up with common broth or water; garnish with celery,
onions, turnips, carrots, and leeks. Set it to boil gently by the fire
for two hours, if made with carcasses, but if old hens are used, it
will require at least an hour longer. When done, skim off the fat
and pass the consomme through a napkin into a basin for use.
This consomme may be considered as the proper basis of all white
soups, and is most useful in clarifying and flavoring all white
sauces.
218. WHITE CONSOMME OF PHEASANTS OR PARTRIDGES.
The same process is to be followed in making this consommi, aa
the foregoing, substituting, of course, game for poultry.
This consommi, after being partially reduced to glaze, is used for
the purpose of imparting the flavor of game to any white sauce,
such as Suprime, Allemande, Bechamel* Veloute, or white Italian
sauce. It is also useful for mixing white purees of game.
219. BROWN EXTRACT OF LARKS OR QUAILS.
After having filleted the larks or quails, and removed the gizzards
from the trail of the larks, put a stewpan on the fire with an ounce of
fresh butter in it; when the butter begins to fritter, put the bones or
carcasses of larks or quails into the stewpan and fry them brown.
Then add half a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, two shalots, and two
* So called after the celebrated cook Bichamel, who lived in the reign of Louis XIV.


AND CONSOMMES. 83
glasses of sherry or Madeira. Let these simmer gently for five
minutes, after which add one quart of common broth. Allow the
extract to boil slowly by the side of the fire for three quarters of an
hour, pass it through a lawn sieve into a basin, and reserve it for
working the sauces intended for gratins of quails or larks, and also
for fumet sauces for p&Les-chauds of either of the forementioned small
birds.
Extract of woodcocks or snipes is obtained in a similar manner.
220. EXTRACT OF HARE OR RABBIT.
This is made by putting the bones or carcasses of either into a stew-
pan with two or three glasses of any sort of white wine, a bay-leaf, a
sprig of thyme, and two shalots; and then submitting it to the action
of a rather slow fire, until the liquid becomes reduced to a glaze, when
a quart to three pints of common broth should be added. Put it on a
brisk fire to boil, skim it well, and then put it by the side of the stove
to simmer gently for an hour and a half; after which time pass it
through a napkin into a basin, and keep it for use as occasion may
require.
221. COMMON GRAVY.
Spread the bottom of a middle-sized stewpan with butter, and
cover it with thin slices of beef suet; place some slices of onions
over this, and then add six pounds of gravy-beef cut into thick slices,
and any trimmings of meat there may be to spare; moisten with
a quart of common broth, and set the stewpan over a brisk stove-fire
to boil. When the broth is reduced to glaze, slacken the heat of
the stove, by partially smothering it with ashes, and allow the gravy
to acquire a deep red brown color; then, fill the stewpan up with
common broth or water, garnish with two carrots, two heads of
celery, six cloves, two blades of mace, and a few peppercorns, and, if
the gravy has been filled up with water, add a spoonful of salt.
Put the gravy to boil on the stove-fire, skim it thoroughly, then
remove it to the side to continue gently boiling for about three
hours; next, strain it through a broth-cloth into another stewpan,
and proceed immediately to clarify it, in the following manner:
whisk up three whites of eggs with a little spring water, and,
after having removed all the grease from the surface of the gravy,
incorporate the whites of eggs in with it; whisk it over the stove-fire
until it is nearly boiling, and then set it to simmer by the side for
a quarter of an hour, and strain it through a broth-cloth into a
basin for use.
222. BLOND DE VEAU, OR VEAL GRAVY.
Having first well buttered a large stewpan, lay therein one pound
of the lean of a York ham cut in slices, a knuckle of veal, and the
under part of a leg of veal; to these add an old hen and a couple of
wild rabbits. Pour three pints of common broth over the meat, &c,
and after putting the cover on the stewpan, place it on the stove-fire
to boil down to a glaze; then slacken the heat so that it may gradually
become browned. When the glaze darkens to a deep red tinge, fill
it up with common broth or water, and set it on the stove; as soon as
it boils, skim it thoroughly, garnish with carrots, turnips, onions, celery,


84 MEDICINAL BROTHS, ETC.
three cloves, and a blade of mace ; and after it has boiled gently by the
side of the stove-fire for three hours, strain it through a napkin into
basins for use.
This consommi is used for clearing and working the grand Espagnole
sauce, for coloring clear soups, and also for finishing some of the
special sauces.
MEDICINAL BROTHS AND CONSOMMES FOR INVALIDS,
OOMPRIStVa
Plain chicken broth. Crayfish broth.
Pectoral do. do. Decoction of snails.
Mutton do. Mucilaginous chicken broth.
Beef tea.
223. PLAIN CHICKEN BROTH.
Cut a yonng fowl or chicken into four parts, wash these well in cold
water, and put the pieces into a stewpan with one quart of spring water,
and a very little salt; set it to boil on the stove-fire, skim it well, and
then add the heart of a white cabbage lettuce, and a handful of chervil;
boil the broth for about an hour, and then strain it through a napkin
into a basin.
224. PECTORAL CHICKEN BROTH.
Cut up a young fowl into several pieces, put them into a stewpan
with three pints of spring water; set it on the stove-fire to boil;
skim it well, and add a little salt. Take two tablespoonsful of pearl
barley, wash it in several waters, and add it to the broth—together
with one ounce of marsh-mallow roots cut into shreds, for the purpose
of better extracting its healing properties. The broth should then
boil one hour, and be passed through a napkin into a basin, to be kept
ready for use.
225. MUTTON BROTH.
Take three pounds of the scrag-end of a neck of very fresh
mutton, cut it into several pieces, wash them in cold water, and put
them into a stewpan with two quarts of cold spring-water; place the
stewpan on the fire to boil, skim it well, and then add a couple
of turnips cut into slices, a few branches of parsley, a sprig of green
thyme, and a little salt. When it has boiled gently by the side of the
stove for an hour and a half, skim off the fat from the surface, and
then let it be strained through a lawn sieve into a basin, and kept for
nse.
226. BEEF TEA.
Take two pounds of the lean part of the gravy piece of beef, and
carefully pare away every portion of fat, skin, or sinew; cut this into
small square pieces the size of a nnt; put the beef into a stewpan
capable of containing two quarts, and pour three pints of boiling
water upon it; add a little salt, put it on the stove-fire, and as soon


MEDICINAL BROTHS, ETC. 85
as it boils skim it, and then remove it to the side of the stove, to con-
tinue boiling gently foi in hoar, after which the beef tea should be
strained through a napkin for use.
227. CRAYFISH BROTH, FOR PURIFYING THE BLOOD.
Take two pounds of the lean part of very white veal, cat it into
small pieces, and pound it well in a mortar; to this add three dozen
crayfish and a handful of green chervil, and pound these together so
as to thoroughly bruise the crayfish. Then remove the whole into
a stewpan, and pour upon it three pints of cold spring water; add a
little salt, and place the stewpan on the stove to boil; after which
set it by the side of the stove-fire, and keep it gently simmering for
three quarters of an hour; it may then be strained through a napkin
for use.
This kind of broth, in order to promote the desired effect, should be
taken by the convalescent upon an empty stomach.
228. DECOCTION OF SNAILS FOR INVETERATE COUGHS.
Take two dozen garden snails, add to these the hind quarters only
of two dozen stream frogs, previously skinned; bruise them together
in a mortar, after which put them into a stewpan with a couple of
turnips chapped small, a little salt, a quarter of an ounce of hay saffron,
and three pints of spring water. Stir these on the fire until the broth
begins to boil, then skim it well, and set it by the side of the fire to
simmer for half an hour: after which it should be strained by pressure
through a tammy-cloth into a basin for use.
This broth, from its soothing qualities, often counteracts, success-
fully, the straining effects of a severe cough, and alleviates, more than
any other culinary preparation, the sufferings of the consumptive.
229. MUCILAGINOUS BROTH FOR PERSONS IN DELICATE HEALTH.
Take a young fowl, cut it into several parts, and wash them thor-
oughly; put these into a stewpan capable of containing three quarts
of water, add thereto three pounds of the lean of very white veal, a
couple of turnips, one carrot, and one head of celery—the whole to be
cut into small pieces; fill up the stewpan with spring water, and put
it on the stove to boil, taking care to remove the scum as it rises to
the surface. After the broth has thrown off the albumen of the meat
in the shape of scum, add to it two ounces of Previte's preparation of
Ceylon moss, taking special care to well mix the preparation with the
broth. Keep the pan gently boiling by the side of the stove-fire for
one hour and a quarter; then pass the broth through a napkin into an
earthen vessel, and put it by for use.
This broth is nutritious and cooling, and its use in cases of sore
throats will often prove beneficial.


*6 BRAI/ES, POELES,
BRAIZES, POELES, MIREPOIX, ETC.,
coMPRisma
Braise fur general purposes. Blanc or White Braiie for dressing calref,
White potfe fur poultry. heads.
Frying batter for fillets of fish, 4c. Mirepoix, or Braise for truffles.
Do. for fruit fritters. White mux for thickening sauces.
Boiled Marinade, or pickle. Brown roux for do.
Gold Marinade,
230. BRAIZE FOB GENERAL PURPOSES.
Take two pounds of fillet of veal, one pound of fat Yorkshire ham,
two heads of celery, and the same number of onions and carrots; cut
all these into small square pieces, add a bay-leaf, thyme, parsley, one
clove of garlic, two blades of mace, and a dozen cloves; throw these
ingredients into a middle-sized stewpan in which has been melted
down a pound of fresh butter; put the stewpan on the stove-fire, stir-
ring its contents frequently with a wooden spoon, while the vegetables,
Ac, are frying. When this mixture becomes slightly browned, pour
into the pan half a pint of Cognac brandy, allow it to simmer for five
minutes, and then add three quarts of common broth. Keep the
braize gently boiling for an hour and a half, then strain it off through
a tammy cloth (using considerable pressure) into a kitchen-pan, and
put it away in the larder, to be used for purposes that will be hereafter
explained.
231. WHITE POELE FOR POULTRY.
Cut into dice-shaped pieces two pounds of beef suet, an equal
quantity of veal, and the same kind of vegetables, &c, as described
in the above-mentioned braize; to these add the pulp of two lemons,
removing the pips; put these ingredients into a middle-sized stewpan
with half a pound of butter, and stir them on a slow fire until the suet
is quite melted; then add three quarts of common broth, and keep the
poele gently boiling for an hour; it should then be passed through a
sieve into an earthen pan, and reserved for the purpose of braizing
poultry in.
Note.—The two foregoing preparations, although very desirable in
imparting a rich succulent flavor to poultry, game, &c, are neverthe-
less to be regarded rather as luxurious than essential. Good white
or brown stock, as the case may require, can be used as economical
substitutes.
232 FRYING BATTER-FOR FILLETS OF FISH, POULTRY, GAME,
ETC., A LA HORLY, OR A LA ROYALE.
Put into a two-quart basin three-quarters of a pound of sifted
flour, a little salt, two yelks of eggs, and two ounces of fresh butter
previously melted in a small stewpan; to these add gradually about
half a pint of tepid water, and stir the whole together with a wooden
spoon until the butter has acquired the consistency and appearance
of rich-looking double cream; it may then be put aside in the larder
until within half an hour of its being wanted, when the whites of


MIREPOIX, MARINADES, ETC. 87
two eggs, weH whisked into a snowlike froth, should be incorporated
with it.
233. FRYING BATTER FOR ALL SORTS OF FRUIT FRITTERS.
Pot into a basin three-quarters of a pound of sifted flour, three
ounces of fresh butter (melted), one wine-glassful of Curagoa, and a
very little salt; mix these gently together with a wooden spoon, gradu-
ally pouring into the basin about half a pint of bitter ale. When the
batter becomes mixed to the thickness of double cream, set it aside
while you whisk the whites of three eggs into a substantial froth, and
instantly incorporate this with it.
Many prefer such fritters as pineapple, peach, apricot or plum, fried
with a plainer kind of batter, in making which, water is substituted
for ale.
234. BOILED MARINADE.
Cut into slices, and put into a stewpan, four carrots, the same num-
ber of onions, and two heads of celery, to which add parsley, four
bay-leaves, thyme and sweet basil, a dozen cloves, a few blades of mace,
two cloves of garlic, and one pound of raw ham (cut into small square
pieces), a tablespoonful of peppercorns, and half a pound of butter.
Stir these ingredients together over the fire until they become lightly
browned; then pour over them a quart of French white wine vinegar,
and let the marinade boil quickly for five minutes, then add two quarts
of common stock; allow the whole to boil gently for one hour; strain
it off through a tammy-cloth (using considerable pressure), into a
kitchen pan, and reserve it for use.
This marinade is used for the purpose of preserving larded beef,
mutton, venison, or roebuck, as well as to braize either of these in,
when it is wished to dress them a la Chevreuil or roebuck fashion.
235. COLD MARINADE OR PICKLE.
Take a large earthen vessel capable of containing whatever joint is
intended to be marinaded or pickled; then cut into very thin slices or
shreds, four carrots and as many onions; add to these, cloves, mace,
peppercorns, thyme, bay-leaves and basil, and a handful of salt; after
having mixed all these together, pour in, according to the quantity of
marinade that may be required, cold spring water and vinegar in the
proportion of two-thirds of the former to one-third of the latter; keep
the pan (containing the marinade) covered with its lid in a cool
place, for the purpose of pickling therein, joints of red deer, roebuck,
mountain hares, fillets of mutton or beef, &c
In Scotland, this sort of marinade will prove very serviceable, espe-
cially if cooking for a shooting-party, and when the larders are well
■applied with moor and Highland game.
236. BLANC OR WHITE BRAIZE FOR CALVES' HEADS OR EARS,
AND ALSO LAMBS' FEET OR EARS.
Chop one pound (more or less, as occasion may require) of beef
net, and the same quantity of fat bacon; put these into a stewpan
together with a garnished* fagot of parsley, a couple of carrots and
* A garnished fagot of parsley, consists of a handful of parsley, half a dozen green
onions, and a bay-leaf and sprjg of thyme tied together neatly with twine.


88 BRAIZES, ETC.
onions, inserting four cloves into one of the latter; add -the pulp of
two lemons, a teaspoonful of whole pepper, and a little salt, place
the stewpan on the stove-fire for about ten minutes, carefully stirring
the ingredients the whole time, in order to prevent them from acquir-
ing a brown color; then pour in a sufficient proportion of water to
produce the quantity of blanc required. Allow the blanc to boil one
hour, then strain it through a hair-sieve, and use it for the purpose
intended.
237. MIREPOIX FOR BRAIZING LABDED FILLETS OF ROEBUCK,
ETC,
Take two pounds of veal, one pound of fat bacon, and one pound
of lean ham, four carrots, four onions, a pottle of mushrooms, six
shalots, a clove of garlic, two bay-leaves, some sprigs of thyme, six
cloves, two blades of mace, and a teaspoonful of peppercorns; cut
these ingredients up into small square pieces, and put them into a
stewpan with half a pound of butter, and fry them brown; then add a
bottle of Madeira or sherry, and a quart of good broth; boil the
mirepoix by the side of a stove-fire for about an hour and a half, and
then strain it through a tammy (with considerable pressure, to extract
all the goodness) into a basin, to be kept for such purposes as will be
hereafter directed.
238. WHITE ROUX OR THICKENING FOB SAUCES.
Take some fresh butter—say one pound, put it into a stewpan on a
moderate fire to clarify; skim it, and then pour it off into a thick-
bottomed stewpan, care being taken that none of the milk be allowed
to mix with the butter. Fill the butter up with sifted flour in suffi-
cient quantity to form a paste requiring some strength to work it with
a wooden spoon; the roux should then be placed on a moderate fire,
and continually stirred with the spoon until it becomes somewhat
softer; then take the spoon out, wipe the sides of the stewpan, put the
lid on it, and place it in a moderately-heated oven, and there let it
remain for about three-quarters of an hour—taking care to stir it every
ten minutes,' and to watch it closely, in order to prevent the possibility
of its getting burnt or colored, an accident which would render it use-
less for white sauce. At the expiration of the time above-named, or
before, if the roux be sufficiently done, (which may easily be ascer-
tained by its becoming thinner), it should be takeu out of the oven,
and put aside until wanted for use.
This roux is used for thickening Veloute or white sauce.
239. BROWN ROUX, OR THICKENING FOR BROWN SAUCE.
This is made exactly in the same way as the white roux with the
exception that it should remain longer in the oven, to allow it to ac-
quire a fawn or buff color, before it is taken out. When the roux is
considered to be done, three or four shalots should be thrown in, in
order to diminish the action of the heat of the copper stewpan on its
contents, and for the purpose of imparting flavor to it.
This roux is used to thicken Etspagnole or brown sauce.


QUENELLE FOBCE-MEATS. 89
QUENELLE FORCE-MEATS IN GENERAL, AND FORCE-
MEATS FOR GRATINS,
COMPRISING
Bread Panada for quenellee. Quenelle of Hare.
P&te d ckoux Panada. Do. of Rabbit
Preparation of Calf 8 Udder. Do. of small Birds.
Quenelle of Chicken or Fowl. Do. of Fiah or Lobsters.
Do. of Pheasant or Partridge.
240. BREAD PANADA FOR QUENELLES.
Take the crumb of two new French rolls, and steep it in tepid
water for ten minutes, then put it into a napkin and wring it tightly,
in order to remove the water from the bread. Put the crumb into
a stewpan with two ounces of fresh butter, a little salt, and two
spoonsful of white broth. Put these on the stove-fire, continuing to
stir the panada the whole time with a wooden spoon, nntil it assumes
the appearance of paste, and no longer adheres to the bottom of the
stewpan, then add three yelks of eggs, and turn it out on a plate,
smooth it over the surface with the blade of a knife, and having
covered it with a round piece of buttered paper, place it in the larder
until required for use.
241. PATE A CHOUX PANADA*
To half a pint of white chicken broth add four ounces of fresh
butter and a little salt; put the stewpan containing these on the
fire; as soon as it begins to simmer, mix in with the fore-mentioned
ingredients five ounces of sifted flour, and by continuing to stir this
batter on the fire for five minutes, it will become a delicately firm
paste, which must be worked over the fire until it freely leaves the
sides of the pan. Then take three yelks of eggs and quickly mix
them in the batter; put it on a plate, cover it with a buttered paper,
and keep it in the cool till wanted for use.
This kind of panada is preferred by some cooks to bread panada;
being considered by them more delicate and less liable to produce
fermentation in warm weather; however, bread panada has the
advantage of not collapsing, as is the case with the pale a choux
panada, if prepared some time before the quenelle in which it is used
be eaten. ,
242. PREPARATION OF- CALF'S UDDER.
The udder is an elongated piece of fat-looking substance attached
to the inner part of a leg of veal. It is easily separated from the
meat by a knife, and should then be bound round with twine in the
shape of a sausage, so as to prevent it from falling to pieces on
taking it out of the stockpot; the udder so tied up is then put into.
the stockpot to boil. Having allowed the dressed udder time to
cool and get firm, either on the ice or otherwise, pare off the
outside with a knife, cut it into small pieces, and pound it in a
• Anglice, "pretty shoes."


90
QUENELLE FORCE-MEATS.
mortar; then rub it through a wire sieve with a wooden spoon, and
put it on a plate upon the ice to cool, in order that it may be quite
firm when required for use.
Note.—The two foregoing preparations being the basis of a great
variety of force-meats, it is essential that they should be well under-
stood before attempting the following more complicated amalga-
mations. ,
It should also be observed that all meat and fish intended for
quenelles must be forced through a wire-sieve by rubbing it vigorously
with the back of a wooden spoon, and then be kept on ice till used.
243. QUENELLE OP FOWL.
Take of panada and prepared udder, or fresh butter, half a pound
of each, to these add ten ounces of prepared fillets of chicken, as
directed above, and pound all three together in a mortar; when they
are well mixed, add salt, and as much grated nutmeg as will cover a
sixpence, a little pepper, and one egg; pound the whole together till
thoroughly mixed, then add another, whole egg and two yelks, and a
tablespoonful of Bechamel or Supreme sauce. Pound the whole
thoroughly and quickly, and after having taken the force-meat out of
the mortar and put it into a kitchen basin; keep it in a cool place
until wanted for use. >
Previously to taking the quenelle up out of the mortar, its consis-
tency should be thus ascertained. Take a piece of the force-meat
the size of a large nut, roll it with a little flour into the form of a
round ball, put it into a small stewpan half full of boiling water;
place it by the side of the fire to simmer for three minutes, after
which take it out and cut it in halves; taste it in order to ascertain
if it be correctly seasoned, and see, that when cut asunder, the inner
part presents a smooth, light, compact surface.
244. QOENELLE OF FILLETS OP GROUSE, PHEASANT, OR PART-
RIDGE; QUENELLE OF RABBIT, OR HARE.
The process for making these is precisely similar to the foregoing,
substituting, of course, the respective sort of game required, for
fowl. It requires, however, the addition of a tablespoonful of strong
essence of game and mushrooms, and a little Allemande sauce; which
not only imparts a richer flavor to the quenelle, but also renders it
smoother.
245. QUENELLE OP FILLETS OF SMALL BIRDS.
Take the fillets of such a number of small birds (as quails, snipes,
larks, plovers, and dottrel) as are likely to weigh about three-quarters
of a pound. Prepare them just as directed in the process for making
quenelle of fowl—adding a little glaze made from their carcasses, and
reduced with a small quantity of Allemande sauce.
246. QUENELLE OF WHITINGS.
Fillet four large whitings, after having previously skinned them;
pound them in a mortar, and force the produce through a wire-
sieve with a wooden spoon. To this substance add equal propor-
tions of bread panada and fresh butter; pound these effectually, so
as to mix them well together; add two whole eggs, and the yelks of


QUENELLE FORCE-MEATS. 91
two others gradually; season with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg.
Mix well by pounding the quenelle vigorously, and then take it up into
a basin for use as required.
Quenelle of every sort of delicate fish is prepared in a similar man-
ner to the above.
247. QUENELLES OF LOBSTERS.
Take the meat of two or more hen lobsters, cut this into thin slices,
and pound it thoroughly with two ounces of fresh butter; force it
through a wire sieve with a wooden spoon, and add two-thirds of its
quantity of panada, and a similar proportion of fresh butter. Pound
these well together, adding, by intervals, three whole eggs and a spoon-
ful of Allemande sauce, a little cayenne pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg;
mix well together by pounding, and then take the quenelle up into a
basin for use.
248. FORCE-MEAT OF LIVER AND HAM, FOR RAISED PIES.
Take the whole or part of a light-colored calPs liver, or several fat
livers of any kind of poultry, if to be obtained. If calPs liver be
used, cut it into rather small square pieces, and, if time permit, steep
them in cold spring water, in order- to extract the blood, so that the
force-meat may be whiter. Take the pieces of liver out of the
water, and place them upon a clean rubber to drain the water from
them. Meanwhile cut some fat ham or bacon (in equal proportion to
the liver) into square pieces, put them into a sauta-pan on a brisk fire
to fry, after which add the pieces of liver, and fry the whole of a light
brown color; season with cayenne pepper and salt, and a little
prepared aromatic spice (No. 1250), some chopped mushrooms,
parsley, and three shalots. After this, take the pieces of liver and
ham out of the pan, lay them on a chopping-board, and chop
them fine; then put them into a mortar with the remaining con-
tents of the pan; pound the whole thoroughly, and rub it through a
wire sieve on to an earthen dish.
This kind of force-meat, or farce, is an excellent ingredient in making
raised pies.
249. FORCE-MEAT, OR FARCE, FOR PRESERVING GAME IN.
To six pounds of boned game, of the kind intended to be preserved,
add four pounds of fat bacon or ham, and two pounds of fat livers (or,
failing these, calf's liver); cut the whole into small square pieces, and
proceed as follows: First fry the pieces of bacon in a large sauta-pan,
and when they become slightly browned, throw in the game and livers;
season with pepper and salt, aromatic spices, chopped mushrooms, and
three or four shalots; fry the whole till the game is thoroughly done;
then chop and pound all these ingredients together; and afterward
rub them through a wire sieve; after which put the farce into a clean
pan, and keep it covered over with buttered paper. It should be used
the same day that it is made, for the sooner preserves are out of hand
the better.
The use of this farce will be shown in its proper place.
Note.—When about to preserve game in earthen pans for the spring
or summer season, great care should be taken in selecting fresh
game for that purpose, as when preserves are made with stale game,


92 FORCE-MEATS FOR GRATINS.
the preparation will most likely not bear keeping so as to be eatable
when opened for use.
250. FARCE OF FAT LITERS FOR GRATINS.
If the farce be required for turbans or fillets of fowls or rabbits, or
pates-chauds of game or small birds, it should be made of fat livers
or leg of veal, and prepared in exactly the same manner as directed
for making farce of livers for game pies, excepting that, to finish it
for use, it is necessary to add one-third the quantity of well-made
bread panada, and an equal proprotion of raw eggs to bind it, and
give it body.
In order to ascertain whether this farce is perfect, roll a small quan-
tity in a little flour on a plate, then put it on a small baking sheet in
the oven for five minutes; when done through, cut it asunder, and if it
preserves its shape and remains firm to the touch, it may be used with
safety; but if it appears to shrink or melt in the oven, then a little
more panada and another egg must be added, which will render it more
compact.
251. GOPIVEAUX IN GENERAL.
To one pound of either veal, fillets of fowls, pheasants, partridges,
&c, chopped exceedingly fine and smooth to the touch, add one
pound of beef suet, two whole eggs, the crumb of one French roll
soaked in water and well wrung in a napkin, grated nutmeg, pepper,
and salt. Chop these ingredients until thoroughly mixed, then
pound them in a mortar until the whole presents the appearance of
a compact body. Then place the substance upon a plate, cover it
with buttered paper, and set it upon ice to cool for a couple
of hours.
After the godiveau has been cooled, put it in the mortar again and
pound it with considerable force, taking care to mix in with it, by
degrees, about three-quarters of a pound of clean washed rough ice.
This last process will cause it to resemble somewhat the quenelle of
fowl. Put it away in a basin in a cool place till wanted for use.
Godiveau of any kind, when well made, is very delicious eating,
and is not so expensive to make as quenelle. It is used for garnishing
vol-au-vents, patis-chauds, tourtes a la ciboulette, and also for stuffing
calfs' heads, as a substitute for quenelle force-meats.


CLEAR CONSOMME SOUPS IN GENERAL,
COMPRISING
Spring Scrap. Scotch Broth.
Do. d la Vertprf* Hodge-podge.
Julitnnt. Soup. Knuckle of veal and rice Soup.
Jardiniire do. lirunoiic do.
Chiffonade do. Lettuce and whole pea do.
Nivernaite do. Flemish do.
Xavier do. Sportsman's do. clear.
Dauphine do. Soup d la DUclignac.
Barley do. d la Princene. Partridge Soup u la Chatieur.
Quenelles of fowl in coiuommf. Paytanne Soup.
Vermicelli clear Soup. Tendons of veal d la Jardiniire.
Macaroni do. do. Do with peas and lettuces
Indian Paste Soup. Ox-tail Soup.
Latagnei do. Soup of gratinated crusts d la iyOrltant,
Clear rice do. Do. d la Princew*
Do. with asparagus points. Do with lettuces.
Chicken and rice Soup. Do <i la Iitgence.
Cock; Leek; Broth. Do d la I'ai/sanne.
252. SPRING SOUP.
Take four carrots and as many turnips scraped and washed, scoop
them into the form of small olives or peas, with a vegetable scoop of
either shape; add the white part of two heads of celery, twenty-four
small onions (without the green stalk), and one head of firm white
cauliflower cut into small flowerets. Blanch or parboil the foregoing
in boiling water for three minutes, strain them on a sieve, and then
throw them into three quarts of bright consomme of fowl; let the
whole boil gently for half an hour by the side of the stove-fire; then
add the white leaves of two cabbage-lettnces (previously stamped out
with a round cutter the size of a shilling), a handful of sorrel-leaves;
snipped or cut like the lettuces, a few leaves of tarragon and chervil,
and a small piece of sugar; let these continue to boil gently until
done. When about to send the soup to table, put into the tureen half
a pint of young green peas, an equal quantity of asparagus-heads
boiled green, and a handful of small croutons a la duchesse, prepared
in the following manner:—Cut the crust off a rasped French roll into
■trips; stamp or cut out these with a round tin or steel cutter, into
small pellets about the size of a shilling, and dry them in the oven to
be ready for use.
Before sending the soup to table, taste it to ascertain whether it be
sufficiently seasoned.
253. SPRING SOUP A LA VERTPEJ!.
This is prepared in the same manner as the foregoing—except
that the croutons a la duchesse are omitted, and in their stead a puree
of green spinach, in sufficient quantity to thicken and color the soup,
should be added.


94 CLEAR CONSOMME
254. JARDINIERE SOUP.
Prepare the same vegetables as for spring soup, boil them in a
strong consommi, and just before sending the soup to table add to it
a pint of puree of green peas.
255. JULIENNE SOUP.
Take three red carrots of a large size, as many sound turnips, and
the white parts of the same number of leeks, heads of celery and
onions. Cut all these vegetables into fine shreds an inch long. Put
them into a convenient-sized stewpan with two ounces of fresh butter,
a little salt, and a teaspoonful of pounded sugar. • Simmer these
vegetables on a slow stove-fire, taking care they do not burn; when
they become slightly brown, add three quarts of blond de veau or
light-colored consommi; let the soup boil, skim all the butter off as
it rises to the surface, and when the vegetables are done, throw in the
leaves of two cabbage-lettuces and a handful of sorrel, shred like the
carrots, &c, add a few leaves of tarragon and chervil y boil the whole
for ten minntes longer, taste the soup in order to ascertain whether the
seasoning is correct, and serve.
256. CHIFFONADE SOUP.
Truss two spring chickens, and boil them in some good white
consommi. When done and cooled, cut them into small members,
paring off the skin; put these into a well-tinned stewpan, together
with the stock they were boiled in, which should be clarified, if it be
not sufficiently bright. Set the stewpan on the stove-fire to boil, and
then add the white leaves of four cabbage-lettuces, a small handful of
sorrel, a little tarragon and chervil, and one head of celery shred fine.
See that the soup be perfectly seasoned and of delicate flavor, and send
to table.
257. NIVERNAISE SOUP.
Take four turnips, cut them into the form of small cloves of garlic,
fry them in a little butter and sugar in a stewpan over the fire to give
them a light brown color, then drain them upon a sieve and put them
into a soup-pot. -Scoop out the red part of two large-sized red
carrots, blanch or parboil these for ten minutes, and, when strained,
add them to the turnips; then pour upon the vegetables three quarts
of strong bright consomm^, and set the soup to boil gently by the side
of the stove-fire until the vegetables are thoroughly done, taking care
to skim off the butter as it rises to the surface. Ten minutes before
dinner-time, throw into the soup, while boiling, some very small
Brussels sprouts that have been previously parboiled: and just before
sending this soup to table, add to it about two or three dozen very
small quenelles of pheasant.
258. XAVIER SOUP.
Mix with six ounces of sifted flour, half a pint of double cream,
four ounces of fresh butter, and two ounces of grated Parmesan
cheese, a little minionette pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. When
these ingredients have been thoroughly mixed together with a wooden
spoon, put the stewpan containing them on the fire—stirring it
quickly and continually, until it begins to thicken, when it should be


SOUPS IN GENERAL. 95
well worked with the spoon for about five minntes. By this time the
batter will have assumed the appearance of a firm, compact paste;
two wholo eggs and two yelks should then be worked into it; then
add a tablespoonful of chopped and blanched parsley.
When this paste is so far ready, make up two half-sheets of paper
in the shape of a funnel, with a hole at the point, a quarter of an inch
in diameter, and fasten them with a pin. Into each of these papers
or forcers, put as much of the paste as will nearly fill it; close the
large ends in the same way as you would a paper of brown sugar; and
with gentle pressure force the paste out at the pointed extremity on
to a large stewpan cover (previously buttered) in the shape of large
peas; this is done with a sudden jerk of the wrist. When the stew-
pan lid is covered with these fragments of paste—which, however,
must not be close enough to touch each other—prepare some boiling
consomme in a stewpan over the fire, and shake off the peas into it
(which will be easily effected by just passing the lid containing the
fragments of paste over the fire), in order to detach them, and thus
facilitate their slipping into the broth. Let these boil very gently for
five minutes; strain them on a sieve, and then throw them into three
quarts of strong bright consommi of fowl or game prepared for the
purpose; allow them to boil again gently for five minutes; add.a
pluche of tarragon and chervil, and let these boil a short time pre-
viously to serving up the soup.
Send some grated Parmesan cheese on a plate, to be handed round
simultaneously with this soup.
259. DAUPHINE SOUP.
Take half a pint of strong consomme of fowl, and pour it gradually
into a stewpan containing eight yelks of eggs beaten up with a little
salt, nutmeg, and pepper; when the egg is well mixed with the con-
somme, strain it through a sieve into a round plain mould, which
should be previously buttered carefully for that purpose. Put the
mould holding the preparation into a large stewpan containing water,
to the depth of about an inch, and cover the stewpan with the lid;
let the water in it simmer—or gently boil—on the corner of the stove-
fire, so as to produce sufficient steam to set the custard. When this
is done, take it out of the water; and after having allowed it time to
cool, cut it into shapes resembling thick wafers, which put into two
quarts of strong consomme of fowl, together with a pint of green
asparagus heads, previously boiled for that purpose, a small piece of
sugar, and a few tarragon-leaves. Allow the soup to boil very gently
by the side of the stove-fire for about three minutes, and then send
to table.
260. BARLEY SOUP A LA PRINCESSE.
Take half a pound of Frankfort pearl barley, wash and blanch it,
and put it to boil in one quart of bright consomme of fowl. When
the barley is sufficiently done, put it into the soup tureen with the
members of two spring chickens (previously roasted and cut up for
the purpose); to these add a sufficient quantity of consomme of fowl;
and after having tested the seasoning of the soup, send to table


96
CLEAR CONSOMME
261. QtJENBLLES OF FOWL IN CONSOMME
Mould three or four dozen of very small quenelles of fowl in the
following manner:—Take up a spoonful of chicken force-meat,
smooth it over with the blade of a small knife, which must be occa-
sionally dipped in hot water, in order to prevent the quenelle from
sticking to it; and with another teaspoon, dipped in hot water, scoop
ont the quenelle from the filled teaspoon, and drop it gently on the
bottom of a buttered sauta-pan. When this part of the operation is
completed, a stewpan cover is held with the left hand in a slanting
direction toward the inner part of the edge of the sauta-pan; with
the other hand sufficient boiling water should be ponred in to poach
the quenelles: then set the sauta-pan by the side of the fire to simmer
for about ten minutes, when the quenelles will be done. Take them
out and lay them upon a clean cloth to drain; after which place
them in the soup tureen, and having poured thereon two quarts of
bright consomme' of fowl, send to table.
262. CLEAR VERMICELLI SOUP.
Take half a pound of vermicelli, break it small and blanch it—by
allowing it to boil three minutes in water—drain it on a sieve, and
then put it into a stewpan with two quarts of strong bright consommk
of fowl or game, or blond of veal, according to taste or circumstances.
After allowing the soup thus prepared to boil up on the stove-fire,
skim the froth from the surface, and set it to continue boiling gently
on the corner of the stove till the vermicelli be sufficiently done.
Then pour the sonp into the tureen, and send to table with some
grated Parmesan cheese on a plate, separately, to be handed round
to the guests simultaneously with the soup. This should be observed
as a general rule, in serving up all soaps containing Italian pastes in
any form.
263. MACA80NI CLEAR SOUP.
Boil one pound of Naples macaroni in two quarts of water, an
ounce of fresh butter, a little salt, and minionette pepper. When the
macaroni is done, which will take about half an hour, drain it on a
sieve, wash it in clear water, and then drain it upon a napkin, that it
may be cut into pieces an inch long. Then put it into a soup-pot
with two quarts of blond of veal, or consommi of fowl or of game, ac-
cording to circumstances; let it boil ten miuntes louger and serve.
264. ITALIAN PASTE SOUP.
Take half a pound of Italian paste, blanch or parboil it first, and
afterward boil it in two quarts of bright strong consomme, as directed
for vermicelli soup, and send to table.
265. LASAGNES SOUP.
Lasagnes are a kind of Italian paste resembling ribbons, and must
be treated in exactly the same way as when using macaroni for soup,
excepting that they do not require so much boiling.
266. CLEAR CONSOMME WITH RICE.
Take half a pound of Carolina rice well picked and washed, blanch
or parboil it for ten minutes, drain the water off; and after adding


% SOUPS IN GENERAL. 97
two quarts of good clear consomme, boil it gently by the side of the
stove-fire till the grains of the rice begin to feather or separate, when
it will be ready to send to table.
Observe, that broths and consommis should be always stronger
when used for soups containing Italian pastes of any kind, rice, or
barley: as these farinaceous substances decrease the flavor and ap-
parent strength of soups, and render them less acceptable to the pal-
ate of the epicure—unless counteracted by increasing the strength of
the consomme.
267. CLEAR RICE SOUP WITH ASPARAGUS POINTS.
This soup is prepared in the same way as the foregoing—with the
addition of one pint of asparagus points boiled green and thrown into
the soup just before sending to table.
268. CHICKEN AND RICE SOUP.
Trtjss, boil, and cut into small members, two spring chickens; the
skin should be removed, and the pieces neatly trimmed and placed
in the soup tureen, together with two quarts of clear rife soup, which
should be made with chicken broth or consommi, of a light color.
The seasoning of this soup must be light.
269. COCKY-LEEKY SOUP.
Take two fowls, which truss, boil, and cut up as for the foregoing
soup. To the broth they have been boiled in add two quarts of blond
of veal, and in this boil (after having first parboiled them in water)
the white part of a dozen leeks cut into lengths of about an inch, and
these again cut lengthways into four. When the leeks have been
boiled thoroughly soft in the broth, add the pieces of fowl; and a/ter
allowing the whole to boil ten minutes longer, send to table.
'Note.—This kind of soup is objected to by many who dislike the
odor of leeks; it is considered, however, to be a fine restorative, and
is especially recommended to the notice of sportsmen, after a hard
day's riding with the hounds, or fagging over the moors.
270. SCOTCH BROTH.
Take a neck of fresh mutton, trim it the same as for cutlets; take
the scrag and trimmings, with two carrots, three turnips, two heads
of celery, two onions, a bunch of parsley, and a sprig of thyme, and
with these make some mutton broth—filling up with either broth
from the common stockpot, or with water. While the mutton broth
is boiling, cut up the neck of mutton, previously trimmed for the pur-
pose, into chops, which should have the superfluous skin and fat
pared away, and place them in a three-quart stewpan, together with
the red or outer part of two carrots, three turnips, two leeks, one
onion, and two heads of celery—the whole of these to be cut in the
form of very small dice; add six ounces of Scotch barley previously
washed and parboiled, and then pour on to the whole the broth made
from the scrag, Ac, when strained and the fat removed. 'Allow the
•onp thus far prepared to boil gently until the chops and the vege-
tables be thoroughly done. Five minutes before sending the soup to
table throw into it a tablespoonful of chopped and blanched parsley.
6


98 CLEAR CONSOMME *
Be sparing in the use of salt, ro as not to overpower the simple but
sweet flavor which characterizes this broth.
271. HODGE-PODGE*
Make the mutton broth as shown in the preceding directions, and
in addition to its contents add a pint and a half of green peas (either
marrow-fats or Prussian-bines). Allow the soup to boil gently until
the ingredients be thoroughly done, then mix in with them one pint of
purie of green spinach and parsley: taste to ascertain that the season-
ing be correct, and serve.
272. KNUCKLE OF VEAL AND RICE SOUP.
Take a good-sized knuckle of fresh veal, cut it into four pieces—
sawing the bones through. Place the pieces in a small stockpot with
two calPs-feet, a partridge (an old one will do) that has been roasted
for a quarter of an hour; to these add three quarts of common broth
or water. Put the soup on the stove-fire to boil, skim it well, garnish
it with one carrot, one turnip, an onion in which has been inserted
four cloves, and one head of celery; also a little salt and a few pep-
percorns. Having allowed the soup to boil gently by the side of the
stove-fire for about three hours, proceed with care to take up the part-
ridge, the calf's-feet, and also the glutinous pieces of veal, which
place on a dish to cool in the larder. Then pass the broth through
a napkin into a stewpan, and after having taken off every particle of
fat, add to it half a pound of Carolina rice, which must be blanched
or parboiled for the purpose. Allow the rice to boil gently in the
broth till it is nearly done, then cut the fillet of partridges into pieces
about an inch in length and a quarter of an inch wide, take the glu-
tinous pieces of the veal and the inner tendons of the calf's feet, and
cut these also in pieces in a similar manner to the partridge; put the
whole into the broth with the rice, and after boiling them together
for five minutes send to table.
This kind of soup may be also finished with the addition of a pint
of green peas, which must be boiled a few minutes before serving up
the soup, and placed in the tureen previously to pouring in the soup.
Asparagus points may be used for the same purpose.
273. BRUNOISE SOUP.
Take carrots, turnips, heads of celery, leeks, and onions, of each
a couple; cut them into small dice and fry them in a stewpan, over
a slow fire, with an ounce of fresh butter, a little pounded sugar, and
a sprinkling of salt. When the vegetables have acquired a light
brown color, pour into them three quarts of good strong bright
consommi or blond of veal, and put the soup on the stove to boil; skim
it well, and then remove it to the side, there to continue gently boiling
until the vegetables are thoroughly done. Add half a pint of green-
peas, a handful of French beans (cut into the form of diamonds), and
half a pint of asparagus points (the whole having beeu previously
boiled green for the purpose), also a few duchess' crusts; and having
tested the flavor and seasoning of the soup, send to table.
* From the French, Hocke-poU


SOUPS IN GENERAL. 99
274. LETTUCE AND WHOLE-PEA SOUP.
Pick, wash, and blanch, a dozen white-heart cabbage-lettuces; cut
them open, and spread them on a clean napkin; season them with
minionette pepper, and salt; then put two together, face to face, and
proceed to tie them up with twine. Cover the bottom of a slewpan
with thin layers of fat bacon, and place the lettuce thereon; pour upon
them some broth from the boiling stockpot, over which lay a round
of buttered paper; place the lid on the stewpan, start them to boil on
the fire, and then place them on a slackened stove, to simmer gently
for abont an hour; after which, drain the lettuces on a clean napkin,
untie them, and after having cut them into inch lengths, lay them in the
soap-tureen, together with a pint of young green peas boiled for the
pnrpose, and a small pinch of minionette pepper. Take every particle
of fat off the broth in which the lettuces have been braized, and add it
to the lettuces and peas already in the tureen, over which pour two
quarts of bright strong consomme of fowl; ascertain that the soup be
palatable, and having thrown in a handful of duchess' crusts, send to
table.
275. FLEMISH SOUP.
Take carrots, turnips, and cucumbers, of each two, aud with a vege-
table scoop cut them out into the shape of olives or pears. To the
foregoing add the white parts of two heads of celery, and three leeks,
which must be cut into thick shreds half an inch long; blanch or par-
boil these for five minutes; drain them on a sieve, and afterward place
them in a small soup-pot capable of containing three quarts; add
rather better than two quarts of good consommi, and set the soup
on the stove-fire to boil, skim it, and place it by the side to boil gently
until the vegetables are sufficiently done. While the soap is boiling,
blanch the following vegetables, which, when done, put into the soup
with the others: a handful of Brussels sprouts, half a pint of young
peas, a few French beans cut small, and a handful of asparagus heads.
Add a pinch of minionette pepper; allow the soup to boil three min-
utes longer, and having placed some duchess' crusts in the tureen, pour
the soup upon them, and serve.
276. sportsman's clear soup.
With two teaspoons mould about four dozen very small quenelles
of any sort of game; poach these in broth, and then drain them on a
clean napkin, and afterward put them into a stewpan containing two
quarts of strong bright consomme of game; place the soup on the fire,
and allow it to boil very gently by the side for a few minutes; ascertain
that the seasoning is correct, and send to table.
This soup takes its special title from the species of game of which
it may chance to be made; as, for instance, Sportsmau's Clear Soup
of Pheasant, of Partridge, of Hare, &c &c
277. DESCLIGNAC, OR IMPERIAL SOUP.
Put eight yelks of eggs into a basin, with a little grated nutmeg
and salt; beat them together, mixing therewith half a pint of strong
consomme of fowl or game: strain this preparation through a hair
sieve into a plain mould, which has been buttered for the purpose.
\
792600 A


100
CLEAR CONSOMME
Steam this in. the same way as yon would any other custard ; and, when
done, put it to cool in the larder. Cut the custard, thus prepared, into
fanciful shapes, and having placed them in the tureen, pour on gently
two quarts of boiling, strong, bright conaomm6, of the same kind that
is used to mix the custard with.
278. PAYSANNE SOUP.
This is to be prepared in exactly the same manner as the Flemish
soup, except that, instead of the Brussels sprouts, the following must
be used: the leaves of two summer cabbages cut into pieces the size
and shape of a shilling, the hearts of fonr lettuces slit into thick
shreds, a few leaves of sorrel, tarragon, and chervil. After these have
been boiled with the other vegetables ten minutes, add to them two
dozen scollops of braized beef; season with a little minionette pepper,
and serve.
279. SOUP OF GRATINATED CRUSTS A LA JARDINIERE.
For a dinner of sixteen covers, order a dozen small rolls to be made
of the size and shape of an egg; rasp them, and take the crumb out
carefully without disturbing the shape of the rolls. When the crumb
is taken out, put the rolls or hollow crusts on a baking sheet in the
oven, for the purpose of making them crisp, as well as to give them a
light brown color.
An hour before dinner, put the crusts, thus prepared, into a deep
silver dish, and pour over them a sufficient quantity of consomm.6 of
fowl to cover them. Place the dish, containing the crusts, on a trevet
over a stove-fire of moderate heat, and there allow the crusts to become
gratinated, that is to say, to acquire, by means of boiling down, a con-
centration of flavor, and that appearance of crispness, which is as
alluring to the eye as it is savory to the palate. When the consommS
is perfectly absorbed by the crusts, put them in the oven, in order to
increase their crispness; but be extremely careful that they do not burn.
Just before sending to table, pour on to the crusts, thus prepared, a
jardiniere, composed of small pipelike pieces of carrots, turnips,
celery, leeks, a few small button onions, green peas, French beans,
asparagus-heads, and also a few flowerets of white cauliflower. Only
a small quantity of consomm.6 should be put with the crusts and
Jardiniere,* as it is usual to serve up a tureen of clear consommS
separately, from which the guests are served; a small ladleful of the
gratinated crusts,1 &c, should be first put into the soup-plate, and some
of the consommi added afterward.
280. SOUP OF GRATINATED CRUSTS A LA PRINCESSE.
Prepare the same number of rolls, according to the preceding
instructions.
A few minutes before dinner, add to the crusts three dozen small
quenelles of chicken rolled into the shape of pieces of macaroni, an
inch long, half a pint of asparagus-heads, and a little boiling conssomme.
Send np two quarts of consommt in a soup-tureen, and serve as
described in the last-mentioned soup.
281. SOUP OF GRATINATED CRUSTS A LA ROYALE.
Prepare the crusts as before stated, adding four ounces of grated
* Tbis observation is applicable to all gratinated soups.


SOUPS IN GENERAL.
101
Parmesan cheese and a little minionette. Just before dinner-time, laj
npon the crusts (gratinated in the usual way) some shapes of chicken
costard, described in the preparation of Diaclignac soup; and serve
□p according to the preceding detail.
282. SOUP OF GRATINATED CRUST3 A LA FERNEUSE.
Prepare the crusts as before described, cut three large sound
turnips into small fancy shapes, fry them in a stewpan, with two
ounces of butter, a teaspoonful of pounded sugar, and a little salt,
over a slow fire, until they have gradually acquired a light brown
color; then add a pint of consomme, and let them simmer gently by
the side of the stove-fire until thoroughly done. When about to
send the soup to table, pour the turnips thus prepared on to the gra-
tinated crusts, and to them add a pint of young peas boiled green,
and a few white button onions boiled in broth. Serve as before
stated.
283. SOUP OF GRATINATED CRUSTS A LA BEAUJON.
•
Prepare the crusts as before, and when they are gratinated, add a
pint of reduced purie of young carrots, put these into the oven for
ten minutes, and just before sending to table, pour over the crusts
thus prepared half a pint of large heads of asparagus and some
shreds of celery kept ready boiled in broth for the purpose, and
serve with the comomme in a tureen separately.
PUREES OF VEGETABLES IN GENERAL FOR SOUPS,
COMPRiaiNG
Pwrie of Peas d I'Anglaite.
Do. of Green Split Pea?.
Do. of Red Haricdl beans d la Condi.
Do. of White HarieSt Beans.
Do. of Lentils <1 la fieine.
Do. of Lentils d la Soubiee.
Do. of Lentils d la Br&noiee.
Do. of Green Peas.
Do. of Roots d la Croitty.
Do. of Carrots d la Cricy.
Brown purie of Turnips.
White do. of Turnips.
Palestine Soup.
Pari* of Artichokes.
Do. of Endive.
Brown parie of Chestnuts.
While do. of Chestnuts.
Puree of Spinach d la Beauvaux.
Do. of Peas d la Faubonne.
Do. d la Ferney.
Do. d la Fabert.
Do. of Spring Herbs.
Do. d la Victoria,
Do. d la Princeaee.
Do. of Young Carrots d la Stanley.
Cricy Soup with whole Rice.
Do. of Potatoes d la crime.
Do. of Potatoes d la Victoria.
Quenelles of Potatoes.
Do. of Asparagus a la Condt*
Do. d la St. George.
Bonne Femme Soup.
6oup d la Hollandaiee,
284. PUREE OF PEAS A L'ANGLAISE.
Take a quart of yellow split-peas, wash them several times in
water, drain them, and put them into a small stockpot with half a
pound of raw ham, two heads of celery, one carrot, and an onion
with four cloves stuck in it, add three quarts of common broth, let
the soup boil, skim it well, and then set it by the side of the stove-


102 PUREES OF VEGETABLES
fire to boil gently for about three boars. The peas having then be-
eom»_entirely dissolved, pass them through a tammy-cloth with the
aid m two wooden spoons, to be nsed in the following manner:
spread the tammy-cloth over a large dish, pour the puree, or part
thereof, iqto the hollow thus formed; then let two persons take hold
firmly of each end of the tammy-cloth with the left hand, so as care-
fully to secure the puree against flowing over; then, with the right
hand, they should work the edge of the spoon, the bowls being back
to back, in the cloth, in regular time and with some force, until the
whole of the puree is rubbed through: it will be, however, necessary
to scrape off with the back of a large knife any portion that may ad-
here to the cloth. When this is done, hasten to remove the puree
from the dish into a soup-pot of adequate size; add a large ladleful
of consommi, carefully stirring the puree on the stove-fire until it be-
gins to boil, then remove it to the side of the stove, to continue gently
boiling until it has clarified itself by throwing up all the froth, which
should be removed as it rises to the surface. Ascertain whether the
seasoning be palatable, and send to tabje with some dried and sifted
mint in a plate; and in another plate serve some Conde crusts, pre-
pared as follows:
Take a piece of stale bread, pare away the crust, and then cut the
crumb into very small square dice, fry these in fresh butter till they
become slightly browned, then drain them on a sieve, and afterward
place them on a sheet of paper, moving them about for a short time
that the butter may be absorbed. Keep these crdutons in a dry place
until wanted. Just before dinner-time, they should be put inside the
oven for a few minutes.
285. PUREE OF GREEN SPLIT-PEAS. v
Follow the foregoing instructions, taking care, however, to substi-
tute green split-peas for yellow. When the purie is ready, in order
to give it as much as possible the appearance of having been made with
green peas, mix in with it some extract of spinach,* adding two small
pats of butter and a little sugar. Serve separately some mint ia
powder, and Conde crusts on plates.
286. PUREE OF RED HARICOT BEANS.
Take one quart of red haricdt beans, and having put them to soak
the overnight, drain off the water on the following morning; put
the beans into a small stockpot, with carrots, celery, an onion stuck
with three cloves, and a knuckle of raw bam; add three quarts of
good stock, and set the whole on the stove-fire to simmer gently for
about four hours. Then remove the carrot, celery, onion, and the
ham; drain off the broth from the beans, and pound them in a
* Extract of spinach is thus prepared: Wash and pound in a mortar a sufficient
quantity of spinach for a small dish, until it assumes a pulpy appearance; turn it out
upon a strong kitchen rubber, the opposite ends of which are to be gathered up and held
in the left hand by two persons, who must take eare to fold the extremity of the cloth
firmly round the handle of a wooden spoon, which will giro them a strong purchase,
acting as a windlass, and will enable them to wring the cloth so tightly as to express
all the moisture of the spinach. To receive this extract, a stewpan should be placed
ready; it ahould be held over the fire until it becomes coagulated, and must be put upon
a hair sieve to drain off any remaining watery particles. Work the spinach-green
through the sieve with a spoon, and this will form the extract.


FOR SOUPS. 103
mortar, after which place them in a stewpan, add the broth, and then
pass the puree through the tammy-cloth in the usual manner; it should
then be poured into a soup-pot, and if too thick to clarify, a little woth
should be added; stir it over the stove-6re until it boils, and then
remove it to the side of the stove, to continue gently boiling until it
becomes bright: of course all the scum must be carefully removed
while boiling. Finish the soup by adding two 'Small pats of fresh
butter and a little pounded sugar. Conde crusts should be handed
round with this soup.
287. PUREE OF WHITE HARICOT BEANS.
Is made like the preceding, except that white haricdt beans must be
substituted for red; moreover, in finishing this puree, in addition to
the butter and sugar, half a pint of boiling cream should be poured in
Serve with Conde crusts on a plate.
288. PUREE OF LENTILS A LA REINE.
Take one quart of reddish-brown lentils, prepare them exactly as
described for the treatment of red haricdt beans in making that puree;
finish also in a similar manner, and serve with Conde crusts.
289. PUREE OF LENTILS A LA SOUBISE.
This is made like the foregoing, but there must be added a puree
of four large onions, prepared in the following manner :— slice up the
onions, fry them brown in a little butter, adding to them a little broth;
having allowed them to simmer gently on the fire until done, pass them
in the usual way through a tammy, and mix the puree thus obtained
with the soup; and when it has cleared itself by boiling, taste it to
ascertain its seasoning, and send to table with Condk crusts separately.
290. PUREE OF LENTILS A LA BRUNOISE.
This soup is recommended to be served when there happens to be
in the larder any remaining stock of puree of lentils, or brunoise soup,
which can be mixed for this purpose. The Condi crusts should be
omitted.
291. GREEN-PEAS SOUP.
Take two quarts of green-peas, a double-handful of parsley, four
stalks of green mint, and a good handful of green onions. Having
put two quarts of common broth on the stove-fire, throw in the above
ingredients as soon as it begins to boil; when the peas are thoroughly
done, drain them and the other vegetables in a colander, then pound
them well together; the puree thus far prepared should be put into a
stewpan together with its own liquor, warm it until it becomes suffi-
ciently dissolved, and then rub it through a tammy-cloth in the usual
manner. Just before sending to table, warm the soup on a brisk stove-
fire, adding two pats of fresh butter and a little pounded sugar.
Send Conde crusts on a plate.*
* In order to avoid unnecessary repetition, it should be observed, that Condi crusta
moit be served with the sucoeeding^urlu of vegetables, except when otherwise directed.


104
PUREES OF VEGETABLES
292. PUREE OF ROOTS A LA CROISSY.
Cut into thin shavings six large carrots, and slice very small the
same number of turnips, three onions, and three heads of celery; add
a handful of sorrel, and a little chervil and tarragon; put these into a
stew pa 11 with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter on a slow fire, and
let it remain there* until the vegetables are steamed sufficiently to
reduce their quantity to one-half; then add two quarts of broth, and
put the pan on the fire to boil; skim it, and remove it to the side to
boil gently for about an hour and a half; after which, proceed to drain
the roots from the broth in a colander, pound them in a mortar, and
having mixed them with the liquor, warm the purie thus obtained, and
rub it through the tammy-cloth in the usual way. Then put the puree
into a soup-pot (with more broth if needed), and allow it to boil on
the stove-fire; after this, place it by the side to clarify itself by gentle
ebullition; and when it ceases to throw up any froth or scum, finish
the soup by adding one pat of fresh butter and a little pounded sugar,
and send to table.
293. PUREE OF CARROTS A LA CRECY.
Shave off the red part of about twelve large carrots, add one head
of celery and one onion; blanch these in boiling water on the fire for
ten minutes; drain them in a colander, and afterward put them into
a small stockpot with two ounces of fresh butter, an ounce of lump
sugar, and a little salt. Set the carrots thus prepared on a slow fire
to steam, and when they have become considerably reduced in quantity
(without burning V1 acquiring any color) add to them two quarts of
good broth, and let the carrots boil gently for aj| hour; then drain
them—pound and rub them through a tammy in the usual way, and
clarify the puree in the same manner as directed in the preceding
article. Finish this soup by incorporating with it one pat of fresh
butter and a little pounded sugar.
294. BROWN PUREE OF TURNIPS.
Slice up about eight large sound turnips, put them into a stewpan,
into which a quarter of a pound of fresh butter has been previously
melted, and add a tablespoonful of pounded sugar. Fry the turnips
thus prepared over a rather brisk fire, in order to give them a light
brown color; when this is effected, add two quarts of good stock, allow
the soup to boil gently by the side of the stove-fire for about three-
quarters of an hour; then drain, pass, and proceed to clarify the puree
in the usual manner.
Observe, that this kind of puree should not be thick.
295. WHITE PUREE OF TURNIPS.
Slice np a dozen large sound turnips, put them into a stewpan
with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a tablespoonful of pounded
sugar, and a little grated nutmeg. Put these to simmer on a slow
fire, without allowing them to acquire any color. When the turnips
begin to melt, add two quarts of white consomme' of fowl; and
having set the whole to boil gently on the comer of the stove for about
three-quarters of an hour, proceed to drain, pass, and pound the
turnips—reserving the broth they have been boiled in to clarify the


FOB SOUPS. 105
purii with; after it has boiled, skim off all the froth, and finish the
soup by adding (just before sending to table) a pint of boiling cream
and a pat of fresh butter, which must be thoroughly incorporated
with the so np
296. PALESTINE SOUP.
Cleanse, peel, wash, and slice up half a peck of Jerusalem arti-
chokes; put them into a stewpan with four ounces of fresh butter,
and allow them to simmer gently on a slow fire, until they are re-
duced in quautity and. partially melted—taking care that they do not
get colored in the process; Then add two quarts of strong white
consomme of fowl, and after allowing it to boil gently for three-
quarters of an hour, proceed to rub the whole through a tammy-cloth
in the usual way, and clarify the purie. Just before sending to
table, add a pint of boiling cream, a small piece of glaze, and a little
pounded sugar.
297. PUREE OF ARTICHOKES.
Turn or peel the bottoms of a dozen fine artichokes, and, after
taking oat the fibrous part inside, cut each into four pieces; put
them into a large stewpan previously well buttered, and strewn with a
little pounded sugar,—placing the pieces of artichokes closely beside
each other, and then set them on a slow fire to stew very gently, that
they may acquire a light brown color. Then proceed in every
respect to finish this soup in the same manner as directed for
Palestine soup.
• 298. PUREE OF ENDIVE.
This soup should be made only when endives are plentiful and
of good quality, as in the autumu season, when they are full and
white. Having trimmed away all the green and outer leaves of about
three dozen endives, which should be thoroughly washed and
examined in order to pick out any insects, blanch them in boiling
water and a little salt for ten minutes; then take them out and throw
them into cold water; drain them in a colander, and with both hands
press all the water from them. Having so far prepared the endives,
cut off the roots and put them into a stewpan with four ounces of
fresh butter, a little grated nutmeg, salt, and a little sugar. With a
wooden spoon, stir the endives over a slow fire for about ten minutes;
then add a ladleful of good white consommi of fowl; allow this to con-
tinue gently simmering on a very slow fire, or in the oven, for an
hour: and then pass the endives through a tammy as usual. To the
puree thus obtained, add one quart of white consomme of fowl; clarify
it according to custom, and just before sending the soup to table,
mix with it a pint of boiling cream and a pat of fresh butter, and
serve.
This soup is recommended for its lightness and cooling effect.
99. BROWN PUREE OF CHESTNUTS.
Take a hundred chestnuts (Spanish or Lyons chestnuts are the
best) cut off the points or slit them across to prevent them from
bursting and flying about; put them in a stewpan with two onnces of
fresh butter, and fry them on a moderate fire until they shed their
husks readily; then peal them clean, aud put them into a stewpan


106
PUREES OF VEGETABLES
with a quart of veal gravy, and set them by the side of the stove to
boil gently nntil they become quite soft to the touch; drain them
from the liquor, and, after having first pounded, and afterward
rubbed them through the tammy (pouring in the liquor reserved for
tho purpose to enable the puree to pass quicker), add another quart of
veal gravy to clarify the puree,—this, after being set to boil on the
stove, must be then removed to the side, there to continue gently
boiling that it may throw up the butter to the surface, which must,
be removed with a spoon as it rises. Finish by mixing in with the
puree a small pat of butter, a little sugar, and a small piece of glaze,
and serve up.
300. WHITE PUREE OF CHESTNUT3.
Prepare a hundred large chestnuts as for the preceding soup,
except that white consomme of fowls or rabbits must be used to boil
them in, as well as to finish the puree with. When the puree has
been clarified as directed above, just before serving it up add a pint
of boiling cream, a pat of fresh butter, and a little pounded sugar.
301. PUREE OF SPINACH A LA BEAUVAUX.
Pick, wash, and boil a large dish of spinach; chop it well and
pound it into a soft paste, and then put it into a stewpan with four
ounces of fresh butter, a little grated nutmeg, and salt; stir it on a
stove-fire for about ten minutes; then add a large soup-ladleful of
Veloute sauce and about a quart of white consomme of fowl, or any
other strong white broth at hand; warm the puree on the stove-fire,
and rub it through the tammy.
Observe, that this puree must not be clarified, it should be kept in
the coolest part of the larder until twenty minutes before sending it to
table; it must then be made hot by stirring it on the stove-fire, and
when just on the point of boiling, mix with it a pat of butter, a small
piece of glaze, and a little pounded sugar.
302. SOUP A LA FAUBONNE.
This soup consists of a purge of green peas, made in the usual way,
in which must be mixed, previously to serving it up, a pint of young
peas boiled green, six cabbage-lettuces braized, and cut into pieces an
inch long, and two cucumbers cut up into scollops, and afterward
boiled in consomme.
There need not be any crusts sent to table with this soup, nor in-
deed is it customary to serve crduions or crusts of any sort for pur6e$
that contain a garnish of any kind.
303. SOUP A LA FERNET.
This excellent soup is thus made: prepare twelve very small cus-
tards (made with consomme) in dariole moulds ; cut three turnips into
very small fancy shapes, and fry them in a little fresh butter and sugar
until they become of a light brown color; a little consommi should
then be added, and they must be allowed to finish simmering on a very
slow fire, and when done, must be set- to drain upon a clean napkin,
and afterward put into a soup tureen with the small custards; to these
add two cucumbers—cut into scollops and boiled in consomme for the
purpose; and lastly, pour some boiling puree of green peas on the
above, and serve.


FOR SOUPS. 107
The purie in this and similar cases, should be kept rather thinner
than when inteuded to be served without a garnish.
304. SOUP A LA FABERT.
Tare six quails, draw, singe, and cut them into quarters, making
two fillets with the pinion left on as for a fricassee, and bone the legs,
leaving only sufficient length of the thigh-bone to give it the shape
of a cutlet, rolling the skin round so as to give it a cusbionlike
appearance. Place these in a stewpan, the bottom of which has
been covered with thin layers of fat bacon; take care to preserve tho
shape of the members, and braize them in a light wine mirepoix
(So. 236).
Having thus prepared the quails, when done, drain and trim them,
and afterward place them in the soup-tureen, together with their
own stock, which when freed from every particle of fat, must then be
clarified, and also a proportionate quantity of Julienne vegetables-
prepared as for the soup bearing that name; and then, over these,
pour a puree of green-peas nearly boiling, and send to table.
305. PUREE OF SPRING HERBS.
Take a double-handful of sorrel, three cabbage-lettuces, a handful
of chervil, the same proportion of dandelion, and a little bulm and
burrage. Wash these thoroughly and place them in a stewpan with
two ounces of fresh butter, and set the whole on the stove-fire to
simmer, quickly stirring them the whole time; then add three pints
of good consommi of veal or fowl; allow the soup to boil gently by
the side of the tire for half an hour; and just before sending to table,
finish the soup by mixing in it gradually, a leason* of six yelks of
eggs and half a pint of cream, a pat of butter, a little grated nutmeg,
and pounded sugar. Put some duchess' crusts in, the soup-tareeu,
pour the soup thereon, and serve up.
Be careful that the soup be not allowed to boil, as, in that case,
the eggs would curdle, and thereby render the soup unsightly, if not
uupalatable.
306. PUREE OF GREEN-PEAS A LA VICTORIA.
Just before dinner-time, roast off two plump spring chickens; as
loon as they are taken off the spit, cut the breasts and legs into small
members, put them into the soup-tureen with two dozen small
quenelles of fowl, and then pour on the whole a puree of green-peas
Dearly boiling and prepared in the usual manner, and send to table.
807. PUREE OF GREEN-PEAS A LA PRINCESSE.
Prepare a steamed custard in the manner following:—Take one
pint of cream of rice (No. 317), mix gradually therujvith eight yelks
of eggs; pass this preparation through a tammy into a plain round
mould — previously buttered for the purpose — and after having
steamed it in the same way as you would any other custard, allow it
to get cold, turn it ont of the mould, and then cut it into small pillar-
like shapes an inch long: put these into the soup-tureen with a little
consommi, to prevent them from being clogged together, pour a
boiling puree of green-peas on them, and send to table.
* From the French Haitan, a connection or binding.


108
PUREES OF VEGETABLES
808. PUREE OF CARROTS A LA STANLEY.
Having prepared about two quarts of purSe of young carrots, when
ready to serve up, pour it boiling into the soup-tureen containing a
pint of young peas boiled green, and three dozen very small quenelles
of fowl.
309. CRECT SOUP WITH WHOLE RICE.
Wash, blanch, and boil in consomme, half a pound of Carolina rice;
add this to a sufficient quantity of Crecy or carrot soup, either pre-
pared for the occasion, or reserved from the previous day's dinner.
Mix these together gently, and take care not to break the grains of
rice, nor to serve it too thick.
Note.—This may be varied by substituting macaroni, vermicelli,
or any other kind of Italian paste for the rice. This rule is applicable
to purges of vegetables in general.
310. POTATO SOUP A LA CREME.
Cleanse, peel, wash, and slice up about twenty large-sized, good
potatoes. Put them into a stewpan with one large onion, and one
head of celery—also sliced up; add four ounces of fresh butter, a
little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg; set them to simmer on a slow
fire, stirring them occasionally, until they are nearly dissolved into a
kind of puree. Then add to them three pints of good white consomme,
and after having allowed the potatoes to boil gently by the side of a
moderate fire for half an hour, pass them through the tammy, and
having removed the pur&e into a soup-pot, add, if requisite, a littlo
more consomme, and set the puree on the fire to boil gently by the
side of the stove, in order to clarify it in the usual manner required
for other puries of vegetables. Just before sending to table, add a
pint of boiling cream, a pat of fresh butter, and a little pounded
sugar.
Serve the fried crusts with this soup.
811. POTATO SOUP A LA VICTORIA.
Prepare a puree of potatoes as directed above, and finish it in the
same manner. When about to send to table, place three dozen of
small quenelles of potatoes (No. 312) in the soup-tureen, with half a
pint of lar<*e heads of asparagus boiled green, and the same propor-
tion of French beans cnt into diamond shapes and boiled, and then
pour the boiling puree thereon, and serve.
812. QUENELLES FOR POTATOES.
Bare six large potatoes, cut them into halves, scoop them out on
to a wire Sieve, #nd rub them through it, on to a dish, with a wooden
spoon; then pnt the potato thus obtained into a stewpan, with four
ounces of fresh butter, half a pint of double-cream, a little grated
nutmeg, pepper, and salt. Stir this on a rather brisk fire until the
paste ceases to adhere to the spoon; then remove the potatoes
from off the fire, and mix in with them the yelks of three ejrgs
and also two whites of egg which have been whipped to a froth
observing that this preparation must be kept of the same consis.
teucy as any other quenelles. Then mould the quenelles according ta


FOR SOUPS. 109
the size and shape required, and poach them in boiling water with a
little salt in it.
313. PUREE OF ASPARAGUS A LA CONDE.
Order two quarts of very young and green asparagus peas, or two
large bundles of good sprue asparagus; break off the heads so far
down to the foot of the stalks that they will readily snap off without
resistance, which will prove them to be young and tender; throw these
into a large pan of cold water, together with a handful of spinach,
the same quantity of parsley and of green onions. Having got these
ready, set a large stewpan on the fire half filled with boiling water,
with) a handful of salt in it. First drain the asparagus, &c, into
a colander, and then put the whole into the stewpan on the fire to boil
fast; when they are done, drain them again in a colander,, let iome
cold water run over them for the purpose of retaining their greenness;
and being well drained of the water, put them into a middle-sized
stewpan, with a quart of good Veloute sauce (No. 4), a tablespoonful
of pounded sugar, and a little grated nutmeg and salt. Stir the whole
on a brisk fire until it has boiled about three minutes, when it must be
passed through a tammy-cloth or sieve on to a large dish, and
after being removed into a soup-pot, should be placed on the ice
in the larder to keep eool, in order that it may the better retain
its green color and delicate flavor. Ten minutes before serving up
the soup to table, stir it on a brisk fire until it is nearly boiling,
remove it from the stove, and, having mixed in with it a pat of
batter and a small piece of light-colored glaze, send to table with
a plate of crdutons.
314. PUREE OF ASPARAGUS A LA ST. GEORGE.
Prepare &purie similar to the foregoing, place in the soup-tureen
about three dozen very small quenelles of fowl, and about half a pint
of small fillets or shreds of red tongue, cut in the same lengths and
thickness as vegetables for Julienne soup; then, with a silver spoon,
stir the above about gently in the tureen, so as to mix the ingredients
with the purie (which must be poured on to them quite hot), and send
to table.
315. BONNE FEMME SOUP.
Trim and wash six cabbage lettuces; and having also well washed
a double-handful of sorrel, shred these as you would do if they were
intended for Julienne soup. Put two ounces of butter into a stew-
pan, and having melted it on the fire, add the lettuces and sorrel, and
with a wooden spoon stir them over the stove until they are stewed,
which will require about ten minutes; then add two quarts of good
strong chicken conaommi, and having allowed the soup to boil
gently by the side of the stove-fire for about half an hour, take
it off, in order that it may cool a little, and mix in with it a lcason or
binding of'eight yelks of eggs, half a pint of cream, a small pat of
butter, and a little pounded sugar to rectify the acidity of the
sorrel. Stir the soup quickly on the fire, in order to set the leasor
in it, taking care that it does not curdle; add a small piece of
glaze, pour the soup into the tureen upon some duchess' crusts, and
lerve.


110
SOUPS MADE WITH RICE
316. SOUP A LA HOLLANDAISE.
PkeIi three carrots, and an equal number of turnips and cucumbers;
scoop these out into the shape of small olives, and, after blanching
them, boil them in two quarts of good strong blond of veal; when the
vegetables are done, remove the soup from the fire, and mix in with it
a leason of eight yelks of eggs, half a pint of cream, a pat of butter,
and a little sugar; set the leason by stirring the soup over the fire,
and then pour it into the soup-tureen, containing about half a pint of
young peas boiled green, and an equal proportion of French beans cat
into diamonds, and serve.
■
SOUPS MADE WITH RICE OR PEARL-BARLEY,
COMPRISING
Cream of Rico d la Roy ale. Cream of Pearl-barley d la Rtine.
Do. d la Victoria. Do. d la Printaniire.
Do. d la Cardinal, Do. d la Royale.
Do. d la Juvenal. Do. d la Princeese Alexandrina.
Do. d la Chaennr. Do. <i la Duchetec.
Cream of Pearl-barley d la Victoria.
317. CREAM OF RICE A LA ROYALE.
Wash and blanch one pound of Carolina rice, drain it from the
water, and put it into a stewpan with about three quarts of white
consommi of fowls; set it to boil on the stove, and skim it well, after
which remove it to the side of the fire to boil gently until the graina
of. rice are thoroughly done; then rub the whole through a tammy,
moistening with more broth, if necessary. When this is done, put
the puree into a small soup-pot, to be clarified by ebullition, in
the same manner as a sauce; and just on the point of sending it
to table, add half a pint of boiling cream, and then pour the soup
into the tureen containing a dozen small custards of chicken, made
thus:—
Roast a young fowl, from which take the whole of the breast and all
the white part of the legs; chop and pound them with a large spoon-
ful of white sauce, then pass this through a tammy with the wooden
spoons; put the puree thus obtained into a quart basin, together with
eight raw yelks of eggs, a little grated nutmeg, and salt; having well
stirred these together, mix with them half a pint of consommi of fowls,
and then pour this preparation into twelve-small dariole moulds, pre-
viously buttered for the purpose; set them carefully in a fricandeaa
pan, containing sufficient boiling water to reach half way up the moulds,
put the lid on the pan, and place it either on a very moderate fire, or
in the oven—observing, that in the former case some live embers of
charcoal must be put on the lid. Abont ten minutes will suffice to
poach the custards, when they must be turned out of the moulds on to
a> napkin, and afterward placed in the soup-tureen, previously to pour-
ing the puree upon them.


OR PEARL-BARLEY. Ill
318. CREAM OF RICE A LA VICTORIA.
Prepare the cream of rice as above directed, and twenty minutes
before sending to table add to it about a quarter of a pound of
whole rice, well boiled in white consomme of fowls: this rice must
be boiled in the purie for twenty minutes; aud just before serving
the soup, mix in with it a pint of boiling cream and a pat of fresh
butter.
319. CREAM OF RICE A LA CARDINAL.
Prepare a cream of rice in the usual way, and pour it into a
■oup-tureen containing thirty tails of crayfish and three dozen very
small quenelles of fowls. A good tablespoonful of crayfish or lobster
butter, and the juice of half a lemon, should be mixed in with the
soup previously to pouring it upon the crayfish tails, &c
320. CREAM OF RICE A LA JUVENAL.
To a cream of rice prepared according to the instructions for
making the cream of rice d la Royale, there must be added, with
a leason of six yelks of eggs, half a pint of cream, and two ounces
of grated Parmesan cheese; having thoroughly incorporated these,
while stirring the soup over the fire (taking care that it does not
boil), poor the soup into a tureen containing three dozen very small
quenelles of fowls, colored with a little spinach-green" (No. 285).
321. PUREE OF RICE A LA CHASSEUR.
Wash and blanch half a pound of Carolina rice, and after drain-
ing all the water from it, put it on to boil with a quart of consommi
of pheasant or partridge. When the rice is sufficiently done, rub
it through the tammy, and having clarified it in the usual way, by
adding some of the same sort of consomme the rice is boiled in,
about five minutes before sending the soup to table, mix in with
the cream of rice the puree of one pheasant or two partridges (as
the case may be).
Be careful not to allow the soup to get too hot after adding the
puree of game to it, as it would be sure to decompose, and become
rough and unsightly. Should this accident, however, occur, it may
be remedied by taking the soup away from the fire, putting a little
consomme to it, and quickly rubbing it through the tammy again;
by these means it will resume its proper smoothness.
This remedy will be found effectual for rectifying similar accidents,
should they occur, -with meat purees in general.
322. CREAM OF PEARL-BARLEY A LA VICTORIA.
Wash a pound of pearl-barley in several waters, blanch, and
drain it upon a sieve, and having allowed some cold water to run
over it for a few minutes, put it into a stewpan with two quarts of
white consammi of fowls, and set it to boil by the side of a slow
fire for four hours. When the barley is sufficiently done to admit of
its being bruised easily, set one-third of it apart in a small soup-pot,
and immediately proceed to rub the remainder through a tammy;
then mix the cream of barley thus obtained with the whole barley
which has been set aside. Ten minutes before serving up this soup,
add to it half a pint of boiling cream.


112 SHELLFISH SOUPS.
323. CREAM OF PEARL-BARLEY A LA REINE.
The process for making this soup is exactly the same as that used
for making the cream of rice d la Chasseur, barley being substituted
for rice, and poultry for game: see No. 321.
324. CREAM OF PEARL-BARLEY A LA PRINTANIERE.
Having prepared a cream of pearl-borJey as above directed, just
before sending to table, pour it into a soup-tureen containing three
dozen small quenelles of fowl, and half a pint of large heads of aspa-
ragus boiled green, and serve.
325. CREAM OF PEARL-BARLEY A LA ROYALE.
The puree of barley being prepared as described in the foregoing
directions, and finished in the same manner, pour it into a soup-tureen
containing two spring chickens, roasted for this purpose just before
dinner-time, and cut into small members neatly trimmed.
326. CREAM OF BARLEY A LA PRINCESSE ALEXANDRIA.
To make this soup, white consommi of game should be used to
prepare the cream of barley, the purie being finished according tc
the method observed in former cases; when about to send the soup to
table, pour it into a tureen containing scollops of the fillets of three
young red-legged partridges, roasted a few minutes previously for the
purpose.
327. CREAM OF BARLEY A LA DUCHESSE.
Having prepared a steamed custard of fowl, as directed in the
preparation for making Desclignac soup (No. 258), cut the custard
thus made (allowing it time to become cold and firm) into small
pillars an inch long, then place them carefully in the soup-tureen
with a little consommi; proceed to pour on them a cream of barley
prepared and finished in the usual way, and to which has been added
a tablespoonful of lobster butter and a little cayenne pepper.
. BISQUES OF CRAYFISH AND SHELLFISH SOUPS IN
GENERAL,
COXPRISIKG.
Bisque of Quails d la Prince Albert. Bisque of Crayfish d la Jlfalmtahmy.
„ Rabbits an Veloutt. „ Crab d la Filzhardinge.
„ Snipes d la Bonne bovcke. „ Lobsters A la Stanley,
„ Crayfish d I'Anciinne. „ Prawns d la Gerito.
328. BISQUE OF QUAILS A LA PRINCE ALBERT.
Fillet six quails, half of which must be made into force-meat
quenelle, and kept in a cool place until wanted for use; reserve the
remainder of the fillets to be lightly simmered in fresh butter, seasoned
with a little salt, and eventually cut into scollops.


SHELFISH SOUPS. 113
Take the larger bones out of the carcasses of the quails, and having
roughly chopped the latter, put them into a stewpan with two ounces
of fresh butter, a small bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, three shalots, a little
grated nutmeg, and a pinch of minionette pepper; set these on a brisk
fire, and pass or fry them brown, then add half a Lottie of chopped
mushrooms and a bottle of Sauterne wine. Allow this to boil quickly
for ten minutes, aud then add about half a pound of rice, which has
been partly boiled in broth, and a quart of blond of veal; after the
fore-mentioned ingredients have been gently boiling for about an hour,
irain them into a sieve, and pound the whole thoroughly in a mortar;
then replace them in the stewpan, add the broth they were boiled
in, stir the puree on the tire to warm it a little, and rub it through the
tammy in the usual way. When this is done, place the puree in
a well-tinned soup-pot, in a cool place. Just before dinner-time,
warm the pur%e of quails, carefully observing that it does not get too
hot; finish seasoning it by mixing in a little crayfish butter, a table-
spoonful of partridge glaze, and a little salt if needed; pour the
soup into a soup-tureeu containing the fillets of quails cut into
neatly-trimmed scollops, as well as three dozen very small quenelles
made with the fillets kept in reserve for the purpose, aud send
to table.
329. BISQUE OR RABBITS AU VELOUTE.
Fillet two young rabbits, make half the fillets into force-meat for
quenelles; pare off all the meat from the rabbits, and with the car-
casses prepare a brown consomme in the usual manner. Put the
remainder of the fillets and all the meat that has been cut from the
rabbits into a stewpan, with two ounces of fresh butter, three shalots,
bay-leaf, thyme, parsley, nutmeg, minionette pepper, and salt, and
fry them brown. Then add two glasses of sherry; and after allow-
ing the whole to boil briskly for about three minntes, pour in the
consomme made from the carcasses. Let the stock thus far prepared
boil gently by the side of a stove-fire for about an hour, then drain
the contents of the stewpan into a sieve, pound them thoroughly,
and after having mixed the produce with their own stock, rub the
purie thus obtained through a tammy, together with a large ladleful
of good Veloute sauce. The puree should then be put into a soup-
pot, and kept in a cool place until within ten minutes of dinner-time,
when it must be stirred over the fire to make it sufficiently hot; and
after ascertaining that its seasoning is correct, pour the bisque into a
soup-tureen containing three dozen small quenelles of rabbit, made
with the fillets which have been reserved for that purpose, and
serve.
330. BISQUE OR SNIPES A LA BONNE BOUCHE.
Procure six fat snipes, perfectly fresh and not fishy; fillet them,
and follow the instructions given for making the bisque of quails a la
Prince Albert (No. 328), but omitting the crayfish butter. Warm.
the purie of snipes just before it is wanted for table, pour it into a
soap-tureen containing the scollops made from half the fillets, and.
three dozen small quenelles made from the remainder.
Send up with this soup, to be handed round, some croutons- of
tried bread cut in small circular pieces about the eighth of an inch
7


114
SHELLFISH SOUPS.
thick; a circular incision having been made on one side of the bread
before it is fried, the inner part is afterward easily taken out, and in
its place should be put a farce, made with the trail of half the snipes
(the remainder should be used in the puree). This farce is to be
prepared thus :—
Put the trail into a small stewpan with a little fresh butter, pepper,
and salt, and after frying it lightly on the fire for a minute or two,
add a tablespoonful of good brown sauce, and then rub it through a
hair-sieve with a wooden spoon. Fill the crbutons with this farce,
smoothing the surface with a small knife; and previously to serving
them, put them on a sauta-pan in the oven for five minutes to
warm them; serve them on a plate, to be handed round with the
soup.
Take care not to throw the crdulons into the soup, as that would
destroy their crispness.
331. BISQUE OF CRAYFISH A L'ANCIENNE.
To make soup enough for sixteen persons, procure sixty crayfish,
from which remove the gut containing the gall, in the following
manner :•—Take a firm hold of the crayfish with the left hand, so as
to avoid being pinched by its claws; with the thumb and fore-finger
of the right hand pinch the extreme end of the central fin of
its tail, and, with a sudden jerk, the gut will be withdrawn. Then
mince or cut into small dice, a carrot, an onion, one head of celery,
and a few parsley roots; to these add a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme,
a little minionette pepper, and two ounces of butter. Put these
ingredients into a stewpan, and fry them on the fire for ten minutes;
then throw in the crayfish, and pour on them a bottle of French white
wine. Allow this to boil, and then add a quart of strong consomme,
and let them continue gently boiling for half an hour. Then pick out
the crayfish, and strain the broth through a napkin by pressure into a
basin, in order to extract all the essence from the vegetables. Pick
the shell off fifty of the crayfish tails, trim them neatly, and set them
aside nntil wanted. Reserve some of the spawn, and also half the
body Bhells, with which to make the crayfish butter (No. 184) to finish
the soup. Take all that remains, aud add thereto six anchovies
washed for the purpose, and also a plate of crusts of French rolls fried
of a light brown color in butter. Pound all these thoroughly, and
then put them into a stewpan with the broth that has been reserved in
a basin, and having warmed the bisque thus prepared, rub it through
a tammy into a puree. Then take the puree up into a soup-pot;
finish by incorporating therewith the crayfish butter, season with a
little cayenne pepper and the juice of half a lemon. Pour the bisque
quite hot into the soup-tureen containing the crayfish tails, and send
to table.
332. BISQUE OF CRAYFISH A LA MALMESBURY:
Cleanse thoroughly two quarts of muscles, steam them in a well-
covered stewpan, and then pick out all the white muscles from the
shells, and put them into a stewpan with some of their own liquor.
To these add forty tails of crayfish, and three dozen very small
quenelles of whiting which have been mixed with sufficient chopped
and blanched parsley to give them a green color. Just before din-


SHELLFISH SOUPS. 115
ner-time, warm the muscles, &c, in s little consommi, put them
into the soup-tureen, and then pour the bisque of crayfish quite hot
on to them. Let the bisque be prepared in the same way as de-
scribed in the bisque of crayfish a Vancienne. When there is not
sufficient time for thickening the purie by the addition of the fried
crusts of the Frence rolls, a little well-boiled rice, some reduced Veloute
sauce, or even the crumb of .two French rolls soaked in hot broth and
pounded wiih the crayfish, may be used, but the fried crusts are to be
preferred.
333. BISQUE OF CRAB A LA FITZHARDINGE.
Procure one large boiled crab, pick the white meat from the claws
into shreds, and put it away between two plates in a cool place
ontil wanted. Scoop out all the pulpy part of the crab, as well as
all the white meat to be found in the shell, and pound these well,
with about half the quantity of rice boiled in broth; dilute the
whole with a quart of good consommi, and then,rub it through a
tammy into a purie, put it into a soup-pot, and keep it in a cool
place.
Just before sending to table, stir the puree over the fire with a
wooden spoon, taking care that it does not get too hot, as that would
cause the soup to curdle. Finish seasoning the soup by mixing with
the purie a pint of boiling cream and a little cayenne pepper; then
pour the soup into a tureen containing the shredded meat taken out
of the claws, previously made warm in a small quantity of consommi,
and send to table.
334. BISQUE OF LOBSTERS A LA STANLEY.
Take all the meat ont of two hen-lobsters, reserving the pith,
coral, and spawn, separately. Cut the meat of the lobster into small
pieces, and put them into a stewpan with two ounces of fresh butter,
one head of celery, and a carrot, cut into small shreds, a small piece
of mace, thyme, pepper, and a little salt; fry these over the fire for
five minutes, and then, having moistened them with abont a pint of
Rhenish white wine, allow the whole to boil smartly on the fire for
abont twenty minutes. Drain the lobster, &c, into a sieve, then
pound this thoroughly in a mortar, and put it again into the stewpan
with the pith or inside part reserved for the purpose, and also the
broth, adding thereto about a quart of clarified and reduced Veloute
sauce, and a pint of strong consommi, then rub the puree through
the tammy; and after having taken it up into a soup-pot, place it in
the cool nntil wanted.
Ten minutes before dinner-time, put the bisque to warm, stir-
ring it the whole of the time, taking care to prevent its curdling.
Finish seasoning it with some lobster butter, a little soluble cayenne
pepper, the juice of half a lemon, and a piece of light-colored glaze,
the size of a walnut. Pour the soup into the tureen containing fifty
tails of prawns, with three dozen small quenelles of whiting, aud
serve.
335. BISQUE OF PRAWNS A LA CERITO.
Procure two pounds of fresh prawns, pick and trim fifty of the
largest of them, which, wb*e> done, put into a small stewpan, to


116 FISH SOUPS.
remain in the larder until wanted. Then cut into small shreds or dice
six young carrots, a little celery, and a few parsley roots; and having
put these into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, a sprig of thyme,
some minionette pepper, and a little salt, set the whole on the fire
to be fried of a light color. Next, throw in the remainder of the
prawns, as well as the bodies of those from which the tails have
been taken; and then add a pint of Sauterne wine; allow these in-
gredients to boil for ten minutes,' and then add a quarter of a pound
of rice previously boiled in broth, and also a quart of strong white
consomme of veal. Having allowed this to boil gently by the side
of the stove-fire for half an hour, strain the whole into a sieve—re-
serving the broth in a basin. Then pound the prawns, rice, aud vege-
tables all together in a mortar, dilute with the broth which has been
reserved, and rub the whole through a tammy in the usual manner;
put the puree into a soup-ppt, and keep it in a cool place until dinner-
time, when, having made it sufficiently hot without allowing it to boil,
finish it by mixing in with it some lobster coral butter, a little soluble
cayenne pepper, and the juice of half a lemon. Pour the soup into the
tureen containing the fifty prawns' tails, with three dozen small que-
nelles of trout, and serve.
FISH SOUPS AND WATER SOUCHET8 IN GENERAL,
COMPRISING
Oyster Soup d la Platy. Sturgeon Soup d la ChinoiM
Soup of fillets of Soles d la Bagration. Do. <2 I ' Indiinne.
Polage of Eels d la Richmond. Water-aouchet of Crimped Salmon.
Do. of fillets of Flounder? d I'Anglaite. Do. of Plain Salmon.
Sturgeon Soup d rAmtricaine. Do. of fillets of Perch.
Do. a I'AuijUtite. Do. of fillets of Soles.
336. OYSTEB SOUP A LA FLESSY.
Four dozen of oysters will suffice for eight persons. Blanch or
scald these by boiling them for a few minutes on the fire, drain them
and save the liquor; wash the oysters, and pull off the beards and
tendons, leaving only the delicate fat part of the oysters, which put
into a basin with their liquor. Next, prepare some quenelles from
the fillets of three whitings; put their bones and trimmings into a
small stewpan with six flounders, an eel cut into pieces, some parsley
roots, a carrot, one head of celery, a sprig of thyme, two blades of
mace, and a few peppercorns. To these add a pint of French white
wine and the liquor of the oysters; set the whole to boil briskly for
ten minutes, then add six whole anchovies (washed for the purpose)
and three pints of white consomme. Allow the stock thus prepared
to boil gently for three quarters of an hour; then strain it off through
a sieve into a stewpan, and thicken it with some white roux, and as
soon as it has boiled, set it by the side of the stove to clarify itself
in the usual way. When the body of the soup thus far prepared has
been rubbed through a tammy, finish it for table, just before dinner-
time, by mixing in with it a leason of six yelks of eggs, a gill of


117
cream, a little soluble cayenne pepper, and the juice of half a lemon;
then pour the soup into the tureen containing the oysters reserved
for that purpose, with about thrate dozen quenelles of whiting, and
serve. %>
337. SOUP OF FILLETS OF SOLES A LA BAGRATION.
Fillet three large soles, and place the fillets lengthwise in a
santa-pan with about two ounces of clarified butter, season with a
little pepper and salt, and some lemon-juice, cover them with a round
of buttered paper, and set them in the oven, or on a stove-fire, for
ten minutes, when they will be done. Take the fillets up, and set
them in press between two dishes, and when cold, with a round
tin cotter, stamp them out into small scollops, and place them in a
small stewpan in the larder until wanted. Make some quenelle of
the fillets of one large sole, color it with some lobster coral, and
mould it with two teaspoons into very small quenelles, which, when
poached, place with the scollops of soles; to these add about three
dozen blanched muscles. Mix with these ingredients about two
quarts of the same kind of soup-sauce as used for the preceding soup,
and when about serving it np for table, place the scollops of soles,
the muscles, and the red quenelles (first warmed in a small quantity
of the soup) into the tureen, and then mix in with the soup a table-
spoonful of chopped and blanched parsley, pour it on to the scollops,
Ac, and serve.
338. EEL SOUP A LA BICHMOND.
Fillet three Thames eels, and cnt the fillets into small scollops;
place these, in circular order, in a large santa-pan containing about
four ounces of clarified butter; season with cayenne pepper, salt,
lemon-juice, and chopped parsley; set the covered sauta-pan on the
stove-fire to simmer gently for about twenty minutes, then add two
glasses of sherry, after which let it boil sharply for a few minutes
longer. Put the scollops of eels thus prepared into the sonp-tureen,
with three dozen tails of crayfish, and instantly pour over these a
soup sauce, previously prepared according to the following direc-
tions:
Cut into shreds or dice, carrot, celery, parsley-roots, one shalot,
and half a pottle of mushrooms. Put these into a stewpan with a
sprig of thyme, a small bay-leaf, a little sweet basil, a few peppercorns,
and one blade of mace. Fry these ingredients with four ounces of
butter until they begin to be of a light brown color; then throw in the
bones and trimmings of the eels, three dozen bruised crayfish, and a
pint of Cliablis wine. Allow this to boil briskly on the fire for five
minutes, then add three pints of blond of veal, and after it has boiled
gently by the side of the stove-fire for three-quarters of an hour, strain
the stock through a tammy-cloth with considerable pressure, in order
to extract all the goodness from the vegetables, &c.
Put the broth thus prepared into a stewpan, and having thickened
it with some white roux to the consistency of a thin sauce, work it
according to the method observed for all sauces. Observe, that as this
sauce is for soup, it should be lighter in substance. Finish with a
lesson of eight yelks of egg and season accordingly, and mix in with
it a spoonful of chopped aud blanched parsley.


118 fish sours.
339. SOUP OF FILLETS OF THAMES FLOUNDERS A L ANGLAISE.
Fillet ten Thames flounders, simmer the fillets in a little fresh
butter, seasoned with pepper, salt, and lemon-juice. When done,
place them in the soup-tureen with three dozen quenelles of Spey trout,
and pour on them a soup made according to the following direc-
tions:
Put the bones and the trimmings of the flounders and the trout,
from which the small quenelles are to be made, into a stewpan with
carrot, celery, parsley-roots, a sprig of thyme, and a few peppercorns.
To these add three pints of common broth from the boiling stockpot
(if possible) and a couple of glasses of Sauterne. When it has boiled
for three-quarters of an hour, strain off the broth into a small soup-
pot, and make it into a smooth white Veloute sauce; just before pour-
ing it into the soup-tureen (containing the fillets of flounders and the
small quenelles of trout already mentioned) finish it by mixing in with
it a leason of six yelks of egg, a gill of cream, and a dessert-spoonful
of chopped and blanched parsley, a little lemon-juice, and cayenne
pepper.
340. STURGEON SOUP A L'AMERICAINE.
Procure six pounds of fresh sturgeon, one-third of which must be
trimmed and tied so as to preserve it from falling to pieces while being
braized, then put it in a stewpan, and cover it with some mirepoix
(No. 236) or wine braize prepared as directed. Let it boil, and then
set it in the oven for about an hour and a half, more or less, according
to the size of the fish. When this portion of the sturgeon is done, let
it be put away in the larder to get cold, in order that it may be after-
ward cut into scollops to be put into the soup.
While the above is in course of preparation, make a brown sauce
with the remainder of the sturgeon, as follows:
Butter a large stewpan, then cat two onions in slices and strew
them over the bottom; on these place the sturgeon cat' in thick
slices, also two old hens partly roasted, and well colored, a' carrot,
one head of celery, "some parsley-roots, thyme, bay-leaf, six cloves,
two blades of mace, and a dozen peppercorns; then add a large ladle-
ful of good stock, and put the whole to boil briskly on the fire until
the broth is nearly reduced; slacken the stove to prevent the glaze
thus obtained from being burnt, by which the unctuousness would
be lost. Then proceed with this sauce exactly as shown for the
treatment of brown sauce or Espaynole. Having thus produced a
bright, thin, brown sauce, finish the soup by mixing in a ragout-
spoonful of purie of turtle herbs, a piece of anchovy butter, a little
grated nutmeg, cayenne pepper, lemon-juice, and a glass of Madeira.
Let the scollops boil a few minu'vs in the soup previously to adding
the butter, &c When about to serve up the soup, pour it into
a tureen containing three dozer, small quenelles of lobster, and send
to table.
341. STURGEON SOUP A L'ANGLAISE.
Prepare the sturgeon for this soup in the same way as for the
preceding, with the exception that the sauce must be white. Having
made a thin white Veloute sauce, in sufficient quantity for the pur-
pose, and seasoned it with the same ingredients as before-named,


FISH SOUPS. 119
add a ragont-spoonful of essence of turtle herbs, two glasses of sherry,
a leason or binding of six yelks of eggs, a gill of cream, a little
cayenne pepper and lemon-juice. When about to send the soup to
table, pour it into the tureen containing the scollops of sturgeon cut
into square pieces, three dozen small round pellets of yelks of eggs (pre-
pared as for mock-turtle), and all the cartilaginous parte of the stur-
geon cut into scollops also.
The pellets of yelks of eggs here alluded to are thus prepared:—
Take the yelks of six eggs boiled hard, pound them in the mortar
with a pat of fresh butter, a piece of bread-crumb twice the size of an
egg, soaked in milk, and afterward squeezed in a napkin to extract all
tbe moisture from' it; to these add a little nutmeg, pepper, and salt,
and one whole egg. Mix the whole well together by pounding, and
then proceed to mould this paste into small round balls or pellets, the
size of a uut, and poach them as you would any other quenelles.
341a. sturgeon soup a la chinoisb.
Procure the head of a large sturgeon, saw it in halves from the
back of the head down to the snout; then saw the halves into
pieces of the size of your fist, and place them in a large-sized pan with
cold water to soak for several hours; taking care to wash them and
change the water frequently. Next, put the pieces of sturgeon into
a large stewpan in plenty of cold water, and set them on the fire to
boil gently until the husk or shell is easily detached from the pieces
of cartilage or gristle; place the latter, when thoroughly freed from
the meaty and fatty substances, in a large stewpan; moisten with good
veal stock in sufficient quantity to make soup enough for the number
of guests. Garnish with carrots, onions, celery, a fagot of parsley,
green onions, marjoram, thyme, and sweet basil, three blades of mace,
twelve cloves, and twenty peppercorns; boil gently for about two hours.
As soon as you find that the pieces of cartilage are become trans-
parent and rather soft to the touch, they must be immediately
drained upon a sieve, and the liquor placed in a clean stewpan and
set beside a stove-fire, adding half a bottle of good sherry and a
small pinch of cayenne. Allow the soup to boil gently by the side
of the stove for about half, an hour, taking care to remove all the
scum and grease that rises to the surface; after which add the pieces
of cartilage and the juice of a lemon, and serve. This soup is very
strengthening; the wine, lemon-juice, and cayenne may be dis-
pensed with for invalids. The head of the sturgeon forms an excel-
lent substitute for turtle, and may be dressed after the same
manner.
342. STURGEON SOUP A L'lNDIENNE.
Prepare the sturgeon consommi as for the preceding soups, bearing
in mind that it should have no more color than it acquires from the
roasted hens. Having strained the stock when done into a large
basin, and preserved all the cartilaginous parts of the sturgeon, get
a carrot, one head of celery, and two onions, cut these into thin
slices, and put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of
batter, and half a pound of raw ham cut into small square pieces;
fry the whole of a light brown color over a slow fire. When this is
done, add to the fore-named ingredients some sifted flour, in suffi-


120
WATER SOUCHETS.
cient quantity to thicken the soup, and stir it on the fire a few min-
utes longer; then take the stewpan off the store and mix the sturgeon
broth in carefully, so as to keep the sauce smooth. Add two table-
spoonsful of Cook's or Bruce's Indian Curry Paste, and after allow-
ing it to boil, lift it off the fire and set it by the side of the stove, there
to throw up all the butter it contains, and to clarify itself in the usual
way. When this is effected, rub the soup-sauce, including the vege-
tables, &c, through a tammy into a ■purte, which put into a sonp-pot
with the scollops and the cartilaginous parts of the sturgeon; after
boiling the whole together for a quarter of an hour, skim the surface,
and finish by adding a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies and the juice
of a lemon. Send to table with a plate of • plain boiied Putna rice, to
be handed round with the soup.
343. WATER SOTJCHET OF CBIMPED SALMON.
Perfection in the preparation of this dish can only be attained by
using the fish a few hours after it is caught. Moreover, those engaged
in catching the fish should be instructed to cut it into slices half an
inch thick, and to keep it in cold spring water for a couple of hours or
so; when, as is well known, the salmon will acquire that degree of
firmness peculiar to all crimped fish.
Place the slices of salmon in a stewpan with some shred parsley
roots previously boiled for the purpose, and also the water they hava
been boiled iu, some picked parsley leaves, minionette pepper, and
sufficient salt to season it; moisten with some esseuce of fish, which
should be made either from the inferior pieces of the salmon, or else
with half a dozen flounders or slips. Let the water souchet thus far
prepared boil briskly until the salmon be done, which will require about
six minutes. It should be served quickly, but just before sending to
table you may add a little bright uonsommi. Many, however, prefer
the latter omitted, considering that it diminishes the sweetness of the
crisp creamy salmon.
With all water souchets send plates of brown bread and butter.
844. WATER SOUCHET OF PLAIN SALMON.
Trim and fillet the required quantity of plain salmon; place the
fillets neatly side by side in a stewpan, and put them by till dinner-
time.
Meanwhile prepare the water souchet broth as follows :—Put the
trimmings of the salmon into a stewpan, with carrot, celery, and
parsley roots, the whole sliced up. Add a little minionette pepper
and salt, aud about two glasses of French white wine; fill up with
water or weak broth, allow it to boil, and then set it by the side of the
stove to continue gently boiling for half an hour; then strain the
souchet off through a napkin on to the fillets of salmon, set them to
boil briskly on the fire for about five minutes, add the shred parsley
roots and picked parsley leaves; and when the whole has boiled
together for three minutes, serve the water souchet in a deep silver
dish or small soup-tureen.
345. WATER SOUCHET OF FILLETS OF PERCH.
Procure four good-sized perch, clean and fillet them. Place the
fillets neatly in a deep sauta-pan, and put them in the larder until


ENGLISH SOUPS. 121
wanted. Meanwhile, with the bones and trimmings prepare the
souchet broth according to the directions given for making the pre-
ceding souchet, and finishing in precisely the same manner.
346. WATER SOUCHET OF FILLETS OF SOLES.
Having filleted the soles and trimmed the fillets, take hold of each
and fold one end over the other; batter the ends together with the
handle of a knife, pare off any rough fragments that may remain about
them, and place them in circular order in a stewpan; then pour over
them the souchet prepared in the usual manner with the bones and
trimmings, &c Let the fillets thus arranged boil for five or six
minutes; ascertain that they are done, and serve them in a water-
souchet dish, with parsley roots and leaves, previously prepared for
that purpose.
Water-souchets of fillets of trout, char, and indeed of almost every
species of the more delicate kinds of fresh-water fish, are made accord-
ing to the foregoing directions. ,
ENGLISH SOUPS,
coxFRiroe
Turtle Soup. Calves'-feet Soup d la Windeor.
Bo. clear. Hare Soup u I'Anglaiee.
Hock-Turtle Soup. Do. d la St. George.
So. clear. Leveret Soup d la Roieie.
Mulligatawney do. Ox-cbeek Soup.
Oiblet Soup d I ' Anylaiee. Deor's-hoad do.
Bo. d I'Irlandaiee. Grouse do. u la Montagnarde.
Ox-tail Soup.
847. TURTLE SOUP.
Procure a fine lively fat turtle, weighing about 120 lbs.: fish of
this weight being considered the best, as their fat is not liable to be
impregnated with that disagreeable strong savor objected to in fish of
larger size. On the other hand, turtle of very small size seldom
possess sufficient fat or substance to make them worth dressing.
When time permits, kill the turtle overnight that it may be left to
bleed in a cool place till the next morning, when, at an early hour, it
should be cut up for scalding—that being the first part of the opera-
tion. If, however, the turtle is required for immediate use, to save
time, the fish may be scalded as soon as it is killed.
The turtle being ready for cutting up, lay it on its back, and with
a large kitchen-knife separate the fat or belly-shell from the back,
by making an incision all round the inner edge of the shell; when
all the fleshy parts adhering to the shell have been carefully cut
away, it may be set aside. Then detach the intestines by running
the sharp edge* of a knife closely along the spine of the fish, and
remove them instantly in a pail, to be thrown away. Cut off the
fins and separate the fleshy parts, which place on a dish by them-
selves till wanted. Take particular care of every particle of the
green fat, which.lies chiefly at the sockets of the fore-tins, and more


122 ENGLISH SOUPS.
or less all around the interior of the fish, if in good condition. Let
this fut, which, when in a healthy state, is elastic and of a bluish color
while raw, be steeped for several hours in cold spring water, in order
that it may be thoroughly cleansed of all impurities.
Then, with a meat saw, divide the upper and under shells into
pieces of convenient size to handle; and, having put them with the
fins and head into a large vessel containing boiling water, proceed
quickly to scald them; by this meaus they will be separated from
the horny substance which covers them, which will then be easily
removed. They must then be put into a larger stockpot nearly
filled with fresh hot water, and left to continue boiling by the side
of the stove-fire until the glutinous substance separates easily from
the boues. Place the pieces of turtle carefully upon clean dishes,
and put them in the larder to get cold; they should then be cut up
into pieces about an inch and a half square, which pieces are to be
finally put into the soup when it is nearly finished. Put the bones
back into the broth to boil an hour longer, for the double purpose of
extracting all their savor and to effect the reduction of the turtle
broth, which is to be used for tilling up the turtle stockpot here-
after. %
In order to save time, while the above is in operation, the turtle
stock or consomme, should be prepared as follows:
With four ouuces of fresh butter, spread the bottom of an eighteen-
gallou stockpot; then place in it three pounds of raw ham cut in
slices,—over these put forty pounds of leg of beef and knuckles
of veal, four old hens (after having removed their fillets, which are
to be kept for making 1 he quenelle* for the soup); to these add all
the fleshy pieces of the turtle (excepting those pieces intended for
entries), and then place on the top the head and fins of the turtle;
moisten the whole with a bottle of Madeira and four quarts of good
stock; add a pottle of mushrooms, twelve cloves, four blades of mace,
a handful of parsley roots; aud a good sized bouquet of parsley tied
up with two bay-leaves, thyme, green onions, and shalots. Set the
consomme thus prepared on a brisk stove-fire to boil sharply, and
when the liquid has become reduced to a glaze, fill the stockpot up
instantly, and as soon as it boils, skim it thoroughly, garnish with the
usual complement of vegetables, and remove it to the side of the stove
to boil gently for six hours. Remember to probe the head and fins
after they have been boiled two hours, and as soon as they are done
drain them on a dish, cover them with a wet napkin well saturated
with water to prevent it from sticking to them, and put them away in
a cool place with the remainder of the glutinous parts of the turtle,
already spoken of. The stockpot should now be filled* up with the
turtle broth reserved for that purpose, as directed above. When the
turtle stock is done, strain it off into an appropriate-'iiaed stockpot,
remove every particle of fat from the surface, and then proceed to
thicken it with a proportionate quantity of white roux to the con-
sistency of thin sauce. Work this exactly in the same manner as prac-
ticed for Espagnole or brown sauce, in order to extract all the butter
and scum, so as to give it a brilliant appearance.
One bottle of old Madeira must now be added, together with a
puree of herbs of the following kinds, to be made as here directed:
Sweet basil must form one-third proportion of thf whole quantity


ENGLISH SOUPS. 123
of herbs intended to be used; winter savory, marjoram, and lemon-
thyme, in equal quantities, making up the other two-third*: add to
these a double-handful of parsley, half a bunch of green onions, a
handful of green shalots, and some trimmings of mushrooms; moisten
with a quart of broth, and having stewed these herbs for about an
hour, rub the whole through the tammy into a puree. This puree
being added to the soup, a little crystallized soluble cayenne pepper
should then be introduced. The pieces of turtle, as well as the fins,
which have been also cut into small pieces, and the larger bones taken
oat, should now be allowed to boil in the soup for a quarter of an
hour, after which carefully remove the whole of the scum as it rises to
the surface. The degree of seasoning must be ascertained that it may
be corrected if faulty.
To excel in dressing turtle, it is necessary to be very accurate in
the proportions of the numerous ingredients used for seasoning this
soup. Nothing should predominate, but the whole shold be harmoni-
ously blended.
Put the turtle away in four-quart sized basins, dividing the fat
(after it has been scalded and boiled in some of the sauce) in equal
quantities into each basin; as also some small quenelles, which are
to be made with the fillets of hens reserved for that purpose, and in
which, in addition to the usual ingredients in ordinary cases, put six
yelks of eggs boiled hard. Mould these quenelles into small round
balls to imitate turtle's eggs, roll them with the hand on a marble
slab or table, with the aid of a little flour, and poach the,m in the
usual way.
When the turtle soup is wanted for use, warm it, and just before
sending it to table, add a small glass of Sherry or Madeira, and the
juice of one lemon to every four quarts of turtle.
The second stock of the turtle consommi should be strained off
after it has boiled for two hours, and immediately boiled down into
a glaze very quickly, and mixed in with the turtle soup previously to
putting it away in the basins; or else it should be kept in reserve
for the purpose of adding proportionate quantities in each tureen of
turtle as it is served.
348. CLEAR TURTLE SOUP.
Proceed in the preparation of the turtle stock, in every respect,
according to the preceding instructions.
The glutinous parts of the turtle having been cut into squares,
select the dark-colored pieces proceeding from the back shell, and
keep them for the clear turtle. When the turtle stock has boiled six
hours, strain it off and divide it into two equal parts; the one to be
finished in the usnal manner, the other to be first freed from every
particle of grease, and afterward clarified in the usnal manner, with
two whites of eggs whipped up with a little spring water, and the
addition of a glass of French white wine, or the juice of a lemon;
add a proportionate quantity of turtle herbs, to give the requisite
flavor, and set it to boil on the stove-fire, whisking it the whole
time. As soon as the egg begins to separate in the stock, remove it
to the side of the stove, pour in half a bottle of Madeira, and allow
the whole to simmer gently until the egg be thoroughly set. Then
proceed to strain it through a napkin into a large stewpan, in which


124 ENGLISH SOUPS.
afterward put the pieces of turtle selected for the purpose; boil there
in it until they are sufficiently done, and then add a little crystallized
soluble cayenne pepper, and serve.
If considered desirable, a little lemon-juice and a few quenelles of
fowl may be added, as also some of the finest pieces of the green fat.
Clear turtle soup is preferred by some epicures to that which ir
dressed in the usual way, from its biug free from the additional com-
pounds used in the full-dressed turtle. It is, in consequence, much
lighter, more delicate and pure, and is unquestionably easier ot
digestion.
349. MOCKJ-TURTLE SOUP.
Procure a scalded calf's head, or, as it is sometimes called, a
turtle-head; bone it in the following manner:—Place the calPs head
on the table with the front part of the head facing you; draw the
sharp point of a knife from the back part of the head right down to
the nose, making an incision down to the bone of the skull; then
with the knife clear the scalp and cheeks from the bones right and
left, always keeping the point of the knife close to the bone. Having
boned the head, put it into a large stewpan of cold water on the fire;
as soon as it boils, skim it well, and let it continue to boil for ten
minutes; take the calPs head out and put it into a pan full of cold
water. Then get a proper sized stockpot, and after having buttered
the bottom thereof, place in it four slices of raw ham, two large
knuckles of veal, and au old hen partially roasted, moisten with two
quarts of broth, and put the stockpot on the stove-fire to boil until
the broth is reduced to a glaze, when instantly slacken the heat by
covering the fire with ashes, and then leave the soup to color itself
gradually. Allow the glaze at the bottom of the stewpan to be re-
duced to the same consistency as for brown sauce, and fill up the
stockpot with water, leaving room for the calf's head, which separate
into two halves, and pare off all the rough cuticle about the inner
parts of the mouth, then place it in the stock, and after setting it to
boil, and thoroughly skimming it, garnish with the usual complement
of vegetables, six cloves, two blades of mace, half a pottle of mush-
rooms, four shalots, and a good bunch of parsley, green onions,
thyme, and bay-leaf tied together, and a little salt. Set it by the fire
to boil gently till the calf's head is done; then take the pieces of
head out, and place them on a dish to cool, afterward to be cut into
squares, and put into a basin till required for adding them to the
soup. Strain the stock through a broth cloth, and thicken it with
some light-colored roux, to the consistency of thin brown sauce; let
it boil, and allow it to throw up all the butter, and clarify itself
thoroughly; then add half a bottle of Sherry, about half a pint of
purie of turtle herbs (No. 3+7) in which six anchovies have been
mixed, a little crystallized soluble cayenne pepper, and the calf's head
cut into squares, as also the tongue braized with it. Let these boil
together for about ten minutes, then add three or four dozen small
round quenelles and a little lemon-juice, and send to table.
350. CLEAR MOCK-TURTLE SOUP.
To make this soup, follow the instructions laid down for making
clear turtle, merely substituting calf's head for turtle.


ENGLISH SOUPS. 125
351. MULLIGATAWNEY SOUP.
Cut up two or more chickens as for fricassee, place them neatly
in a stewpan, in which previously put carrot, onion, celery, parsley,
thyme, bay-leaf, cloves, and mace; fill up with good veal broth, and
when the members of chicken are nearly done, strain them off into
a sieve, saving their broth in a basin. 'Cool the pieces of chicken in
spring water, and then take them up on a clean napkin, trim them
neatly, and place them in a soup-pot, to be put into the soup after-
ward. Then cut four large onions in halves, taking out the head or
root part, and again cut these into slices; place them in a stewpan
with foor ounces of butter, a carrot, and two heads of celery cut
small, and fry these over a slow fire until the onion is nearly melted,
and become of a fine light brown color; then throw in as much
flower as will suffice to thicken the quantity of soup you wish to
make; stir this on the fire two or three minutes, and after adding
a good tablespoonful of curry powder, and the same quantity of curry
paste, proceed gradually to mix in with these, first the broth the
chickens were boiled in, and afterward as much more consomme of veal
as may be found requisite to produce the quantity of soup desired.
Place this on the stove-fire, stirring it the whole time, an<J as soon as
it boils, put it by the side of the stove to clarify itself in the usual way;
then rub it through the tammy into a puree, and pour it upon the
pieces of chicken. Half an hour before dinner-time, place the soup
on the stove-fire, stir it till it boils, place it by the side to continue
boiling gently for ten minutes, by which time the chickens will be done;
skim the soup, ascertain that the seasoning be correct, and send to
table with two plates of plain boiled Patna rice, to be handed round
with the soup.
352. GIBLBT SOUP A L'ANGLAISE.
Take four sets of giblets properly cleaned and trimmed, put them
into a stewpan full of boiling water, to scald for five "minutes; drain
them in a colander, immerse them in cold water, and then place them
on a napkin to drain. Singe the necks and wings over the flame of
a charcoal fire, and carefully pick out all the stubble feathers, cut the
giblets up into inch and a half lengths, place these in a stewpan with
two heads of celery, carrots, onions, turnips, in equal proportions;
also, four cloves, two blades of mace, and a bunch of parsley, with a
moderate quantity of basil, winter savory, lemon-thyme, and green
onions, a sprig of common thyme, and one bay-leaf. Fill the stewpan
with four quarts of blond of veal, and after allowing these to boil
gently by the side of the stove-fire till they are done (which will be
seen when the pieces of gizzard are become tender), immediately drain
them in a large sieve, pouring their broth into a basin. Immerse the
piblets in cold water, then pick them out free from any particles of
herbs or vegetables that may adhere to them; place them on a napkin,
and when neatly trimmed, put them by in the soup-pot. Next, pour
the giblet broth into an adequate-sized stewpan, and having thickened
it in the usual manner with a sufficient quantity of roux to the con-
sistency of thin sauce, set it to boil on the stove-fire, and afterward
place it by the side to clarify itself. When the sauce has been cleared
of the butter, &c, add half a bottle of Sherry and a little cayenne,
and then pass the sauce on to the giblets, and put the soup in


126 ENGLISH SOUPS.
the larder till dinner time; when, having allowed the giblets to
boil in the sauce a few minutes, add a little lemon-juice, and send
to table.
353. CLEAR GIBLET SOUP A L'lRLANDAISE.
Prepare the giblet broth in every respect as directed for making
the foregoing soup, trim and put the giblets away in a soup-pot, skim
off every particle of fat from the surface of the broth, and clarify
it by incorporating therewith the whites of three eggs whipped up
with a little cold water; set the consomme, thus prepared, on the stove
to boil, then add to it half a bottle of Sherry; and as soon as it boils
up again, place it by the side of the stove, there gently to simmer for
twenty minutes, in order to set the eggs. Then strain the consommS
through a napkin on to the giblets, reserving one quart of it in a
stewpan, in which boil the white parts of three heads of celery, and
four large leeks, cut into inch lengths, and shred as for Julienne soup,
adding this to the giblets; ascertain that the seasoning be palatable,
and send up to table.
354. OX-TAIL SOUP.
Procure two fresh ox-tails, cut each joint, after dividing them, into
inch lengths with a small meat saw, steep them in water for two hours,
and then place them in a stewpan with three carrots, three turnips,
three onions, and two heads of celery, four cloves, and a blade
of mace. Fill up the stewpan with broth from the boiling stock-
pot; boil this by the side of the stove-fire till done, drain the
pieces of ox-tail on a large sieve, allow them to cool, trim them
neatly, and place them in a soup-pot. Clarify the broth the ox-
tails were boiled in, strain it through a napkin into a basin, and
then pour it into the soup-pot containing the trimmed pieces of
ox-tails, and also some small olive-shaped pieces of carrot and
turnip that have been boiled in a little of the broth, and a small
lnmp of sugar; add a pinch of minionette pepper, and previously to
sending the soup to table, let it boil gently by the side of the stove-fire
for a few minutes.
This soup may be served, also, in various other ways, by adding
thereto a purie of any sort of vegetables; such, for instance, as a
puree of peas, carrots, turnips, celery, or lentils.
355. calf's feet soup a la Windsor.
Place in a two-gallon stockpot a knuckle of veal, a pound of raw
lean ham, two calf's feet, and an old hen minus the fillets, which"
reserve for making quenelle* with, for further use. To these add two
carrots, two onions stuck with four cloves, celery, a bouquet of parsley,
green onions, sweet basil, and lemon-thyme, tied neatly together;
moisten with half a bottle of light French white wine, and put the
stockpot on a moderate fire to boil for ten minutes or so; then fill
it up from the common stock, or any white broth you may have
ready, set it to boil on the stove, skim it well, and after four hours'
gentle ebullition, take the calPs feet out, and put them in water to
clean them; then take all the bones out, and lay them on a dish to
cool, to be trimmed afterward, so as to leave the inner part of the
feet only, all the outer skin being thinly pared off, that the feet may


ENGLISH SOUPS. 127
have a more transparent appearance; cat them into inch lengths, by
half an inch in width, and put them by in a small soup-pot till re-
quired. Strain the consommi through a napkin, thicken it moderately
with a little white roux (going through the regular process for making
white VelonU), then add thereto a little essence of mushrooms, and
finish by incorporating with the sauce thus prepared a leason of six
yelks of eggs mixed with a little grated Parmesan and half a pint of
cream ; squeeze the juice of half a lemon into it, and season with a little
crystallized soluble cayenne. Pour the soup into the tureen containing
two dozen very small quenelles (made with the fillets of the old hen),
some boiled macaroni cut into inch lengths, and the tendons of the cairs
feet, previously warmed in a little consommi, with the addition of half
a glass of white wine. Stir the soup gently in the tureen to mix these
ingredients together, and send to table.
356. HARE SOUP A L'ANGLAISE.
Skin and pannch a hare, and cut it up as follows:—first take off
the legs close to the loins, and divide them into three pieces, slip the
shoulders off and cut them into two parts, cut the back into six pieces,
and divide the head in halves. Next place a stewpan on the stove-
fire, containing four ounces of butter, a carrot, two onions, a head of
celery cut into small slices, and fry these of a light color; then add
the pieces of hare, over which, when also fried brown, shake a good
handful of flour, and moisten with half a bottle of Port wine, at the
same time adding a garnished bouquet, three cloves, a blade of mace,
and two quarts of blond of veal; stir the whole on the fire until it
boils, then take it off and set it by the side to boil gently for an hour
and a quarter, taking care in the meantime to skim off the butter,
&c, as it rises to the surface. Take out the pieces of hare when
done, from the sauce, and place them on a dish; select the finest
pieces of meat, remove the bones, and set these pieces aside in a
soup-pot; clear the remainder of the meat from the bones, and pound
it thoroughly, with the vegetables, from the sauce; when these are
pounded, mix them again with the sauce, and pass the whole through
a tammy into a. puree, and pour it on to the pieces of hare reserved in
the soup-pot.
Observe, that this soup must not be thick, consequently it may be
necessary after passing it through the tammy to add a little blond, of
veal to thin it.
Just before sending it to table, make the soup hot, but be careful
that it does not boil; ascertain that its seasoning be palatable, and
serve.
357. HARE SOUP A LA ST. GEORGE.
Get two good-sized leverets and fillet them. Place the fillets in a
■mall sauta-pan with a little fresh butter, pepper, and salt; cover them
with a round of buttered paper, and put them in the larder till
dinner-time. Reserve a sufficient quantity of the meat from the
leveret's hind-quarters, in order to make some quenelles; cut the
remainder into small pieces, and fry them exactly in the same manner
as directed in the preceding soup; shake into them a sufficient
quantity of flour to thicken the sauce of the soup, moisten with a
bottle of Claret, and two quarts of blond of veal; add a garnished


128
ENGLISH SOUPS.
bouquet made with basil, marjoram, parsley, bay-leaf, and thyme, four
cloves, mace, and four shalots. Let the sauce boil, skim it well, and
when the hare is thoroughly done, pass the sauce through a tammy
into a soup-pot; put this on the fire to throw off any remaining rough-
ness, and that it may be reduced if necessary; and then pour it into the
soup-tureen, which should contain three dozen small quenelles made
with the meat reserved for that purpose, as before mentioneji ; also the
scollops of hare prepared by lightly frying the fillets in the sauta-pan,
and which must be afterward scolloped. Ascertain that the seasoning
be correct, and send to table.
358. LEVERET SOUP A LA EOSSIE.
Get a good-sized leveret, cut it into pieces, and fry these in a stew-
pan with two ounces of butter; as soon as they are colored, moisten
with half a bottle of Sherry, allow the wine to boil, then add two quarts of
consomme or blond of veal, garnish with carot, onion, and celery, mace,
cloves, and peppercorns, a bouquet of bay-leaf, thyme, basil, marjoram,
and winter savory; let these herbs be used in small quantities, in order
that they may give flavor, without predominating. When the soup has
boiled three-quarters of an hour, let the pieces of hare be drained on a
sieve, and at the same time pass the broth into a basin; afterward
place the pieces of hare on a napkin, and when neatly trimmed, put
them into a soup-pot.
Next, clarify the consomme in the usual manner, and strain it through
a napkin on to the pieces of leveret; and, just before sending to table,
add to the soup three dozen very small quenelles of leveret, and some
white celery cut into shreds and boiled in a small quautity of the
soup.
359. OX-CHEEK SOUP.
Procure a fresh ox-cheek, and put it to braize in a small stockpot
with a knuckle of veal and some roast-beef bones, fill the pot up from
the boiling stockpot, or with water; garnish with the Bame complement
of stock vegetables used for ox-tail soup (No. 354), adding six cloves,
a blade of mace, and a few peppercorns. As soon as the ox-cheek is
done, take the meat off the cheek-bone, and put it in press between
two dishes. Strain off the broth, adding to it a ladlefnl of gravy to
color it; and proceed to clarify it with a ceuple of whites of eggs.
While the consomme" is clarifying, trim the ox-cheek and cut it into
neat scollops an inch square and half an inch thick; put these into a
small soup-pot and add to them some small carrots and turnips cut in
fancy shapes and boiled in a little broth, a lump of sugar, and also a
dozen and a half very small white button onions. Strain the clarified
consomme thus prepared into the sonp-pot, and having allowed the
soup to boil a few minutes by the side of the stove-fire, just before
serving, add two dozen blanched Brussels sprouts, and a pinch of
minionette pepper, and send to table.
360. deer's-head soup a la chasseur*
Procure a young deer's head, perfectly fresh, scald it and cleanse
it thoroughly; proceed then to prepare the soup in exactly the same
* This wiH*be found a very useful soup iu those pnrts of the country where deer
abound.


PUREES OF POULTRY. 129
manner as for mock-turtle; just before sending to table, add two
down small quenelles made with deer's flesh, together with some small
scollops of deer simmered in a little fresh butter and fine herbs.
Take care that the soup does not boil after the scollops are added
to it
.
361. GROUSE SOUP A LA MONTAGNARDE.
Roast off three brace of young grouse, take the whole of the meat
from the bones, carefully cutting out the lower part of their backs,
which being bitter, must be rejected. Set aside four of the fillets, cut
them into scollops, to be put in the soup afterward. Put the carcasses
and bones of the grouse into a stewpan with half a bottle of Sherry, a
carrot, onion, celery, a few cloves, a couple of shalots, and a bhide of
mace; set these to simmer gently on the fire for ten minutes, after
which add two quarts of good stock, and having allowed it to boil an
hoar and a half, strain it off into a basin. Pound the whole of the
meat yielded by the grouse, excepting the four fillets before named,
mixing with it a little rice boiled in broth; moisten with the grouse
essence, and pass it through the tammy into a purie, and put it into
a small soap-pot. Just before dinner-time, warm the purie, taking
the usnal precaution to prevent it from curdling, pour it into the
soap-tureen containing the scollops of the fillets of grouse, and three
dozen very small quenelles of the same.
PUREES OF POULTRY AND GAME,
COMPRISING
Pwrie of Fowl d la Heine. Purle of Pheasants d la Dauphin*,
„ „ d la Printaniire. „ „ d I'Anglaiee.
„ „ & la Princeme. „ Partridges d la Beaufort.
„ „ d la Celettine. „ „ d la Balzae.
„ Red-legged Partridges^ la „ Hare d la Oonli.
Conli. ,, Rabbits d la Maitre d'hStel.'
„ Pheasants d la Royale. „ "d la Chantillg.
362. PUREE OF FOWL A LA REINE. ,
Roast off two good-sized young fowls, clear all the meat from the
bones, chop and pound it thoroughly with half a pound of boiled rice;
dilate it with three pints of chicken broth, made with the skins and
carcasses of the two fowls used for the purie, and rub it through a
tammy with the aid of two wooden spoons, into a large dish. Take
the puree up into a soup-pot, and put it away in the larder till dinner-
time; then warm it, with the usual precaution to prevent its curdling;
mix with it a pint of boiling cream, and having ascertained that the
seasoning be correct, send to table,
363. PUREE OF FOWL A LA PRINTANIERE.
Prepare the purie of fowls as for the preceding soup; just before
sending it to table, add the boiling cream, and then pour the purie
into the soup-tureen containing a pint of asparagus-heads boiled green.
Send a plate of fried crdutons to be handed round to the guests.
8


130 PUREES OF GAME.
364. PUREE OF FOWL A LA PRINCESSE.
Prepare the purie of fowl in the usual manner, and having mixed
the boiling cream in it, pour it into the tureen containing three dozen
very small quenelles of fowl, and four ounces of Frankfort pearl-barley,
well blanched and boiled for two hours in some white chicken broth.
Ascertain that the seasoning be delicate, and send to table.
365. PUREE OF FOWL A LA CELESTINE.
Roast off two fowls; as soon as they are cold, pound the meat
thereof in a mortar, together with six ounces of bleached Jordan
almonds, and eight yelks of eggs, beginning with the almonds, then
adding the yelks of eggs, and lastly, the fowl. Dilute with the
chicken broth made with the carcasses of the fowl; rub the puree
through the tammy, and put it into a soup-pot, to be kept in the cool
till dinner-time; when, after having warmed it, add a pint of boiling
cream, and send to table.
A plate of duchess' crusts should be sent to table with this soup, to
be handed round.
366. PUREE OF RED-LEGGED PARTRIDGES A LA CONTI.
Roast off two brace of red-legged partridges; take the meat from
them, make a consomme with their carcasses, pound the meat tho-
roughly, mixing therewith half a pound of barley boiled for the pur-
pose; dilute with the consommi, rub it through the tammy, and having
made the purie sufficiently hot (taking care that it be not too thick),
send to table with a plate of Conde crdutons, to be handed round.
367. PUREE OF PHEASANTS A LA ROYALE.
Roast off a brace of pheasants, take out the fillets and white part,
of the legs; make a consou>mi with the remainder. Pound the fillets,
&c, with a proportionate quantity of boiled rice, dilute with the con-
somme, and rub the puree through the tammy; finish with a small
piece of game glaze or essence, and serve.
The croutons to be sent in a plate as usual.
368. PUREE OF PHEASANTS A LA DAUPHINE.
Prepare a puree of pheasants as in; the preceding case; when,
about to send the soup to table, pour it into a tureen containing four
dozen small potato quenelles, and serve.
The potato quenelles should be prepared as follows:—Bake four
large York potatoes, and rub the pulp through a wire-sieve; put this
into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, half a pint of cream, pepper,
salt, and nutmeg. Stir these on the fire until the mixture forms a
compact paste; then take the stewpan off the stove, and proceed to
incorporate with the paste three yelks and one white of egg; and then
mould the small quenelles with teaspoons, and poach them as you
would any others, in water: or broth.
369. PUREE OF PHEASANTS A l'ANGLAISE.
Prepare a puree of pheasant in the usual manner, and having
finished it as in the foregoing article, pour it into a tureen containing
the fillets of one pheasant cat into scollops, and serve.


PUREES OF GAME. 131
370. PUREE OF PARTRIDGES A LA BEAUFORT.
Prepare a puree of partridges in the manner described for making
thepuree of red-legged partridges; warm and finish the puree in the
Mine manner, and just before sending to table, pour into the tureen
containing three dozen small quenelles of partridges, the tails of
three dozen crayfish, and half a pound of cocks kernels (previ-
ously simmered in a little white broth, with butter, lemon-juice, and
salt), and serve.
371. PUREE OF PARTRIDGES A LA BALZAC.
Prepare a purie of partridges in the usual manner, and fipish by
incorporating with it two ounces of crayfish butter and a piece of frame
glaze; then pour the hot puree into a tureen containing three dozen
crayfish tails, and three dozen quenelles of partridges—in the prepara-
tion of which two tablespoonsful of chopped truffles have been mixed,
previously to moulding the quenelles; and send to table.
372. PUREE OF HARE A LA CONTI.
I
Skin, paunch, and cut up a hare into pieces. Put two ounces of
batter into a stewpan with two shalots, a blade of mace, a sprig of
thyme, and half a bay-leaf. When the butter has been made hot on
the stove-fire, put the pieces of hare into the stewpan, and having
fried these of a brown color, moisten them with a bottle of Sau-
terae wine; when the wine has boiled ten minutes, add three pints
of good consommi; and then, after allowing the hare to boil gently
on the side of the stove-fire for about an hour and a quarter, strain
the pieces of hare into a sieve, reserving the broth in a basin; and
after having separated the meat from the bones, &c, pound it thor-
oughly with a little boiled rice; dilute it with the stock it was boiled
in, and pass it through the tammy into a purie. Just before sending
lo table, make the puree sufficiently hot, and having tested its degree
of seasoning, serve with a plate of fried crdutons, to be handed round
to the guests.
373. PUREE OF RABBITS A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL.
Roast off three good-sized young rabbits; and, while they are before
the fire, season them with a little nutmeg, pepper, and salt, and baste
»ith half a pint of cream mixed with two ounces of fresh butter and
two ounces of flour. This batter shonld not be used until the rabbits
have been roasted ten minutes, and care shonld be taken to make it
•dhere to the rabbits while they continue roasting; when they are
done, clear off all the meat, and pound it in a mortar with four ounces
of barley, previously boiled for the purpose; dilute with the consommi
fade from the carcasses, rub the whole through the tammy, and put
this purie into a small soup-pot. Jnst before dinner-time make it
hot, and incorporate therewith half a pint of cream and a pat of fresh
bolter; then pour it into a tureen containing three dozen small que-
nelles of rabbit, in preparing which a little grated Parmesan cheese,
ninionette pepper, and a spoonful of chopped and blanched parsley
moat be added.
374. PUREE OF RABBITS A LA CHANTILLY.
Prepare a purie of rabbits as for the preceding soup, finish it by


132 NATIONAL SOUPS.
*
adding a pint 6T cream and a piece of glaze; then poor the hot soup
into a tureen containing twelve small custards previously prepared
for the purpose, in manner following: Pass eight yelks of eggs
through a tammy into a stewpan, to these add a tablespoonful of
spinach-green (No. 285), a little grated Parmesan cheese, nutmeg,
pepper, and salt, some essence of game, and half a pint of cream;
beat the whole well together, and pass this mixture through a tammy
into a basin, and then pour it into twelve small dariole moulds (pre-
viously buttered), place them in a stewpan containing hot water to
the depth of an inch, and set them to steam by the side of the stove-
fire, taking care that the stewpan has the lid on, and some live
embers of burning charcoal placed upon it. A quarter of an hour
will suffice to steam these custards; when done, turn them out of the
moulds with care, and place them instantly in the soup-tureen as
directed.
*
NATIONAL SOUPS,
ooxpRiaiito
Raviolii d la Napolitaiue. Bonch, or Polish Soup.
Rice d la Florentine. Ouka, or Ruaian do.
Soup A la PitmontaUe. Techi, or Cabbage do., d la Ruiee.
Bo. d la Biarnaiie. Olla Podrida, or Spanish national do.
Bouillabaiue d la Proveneale. Turkish Pilaff, or Pilau.
375. EAVIOLIS A LA NAPOLITAINE.
Prepare a consommi gravy soup, in the following manner: Butter
the bottom of a small stockpot, and place in it some slices of raw
ham, three pounds of gravy beef, a small knuckle of veal, and either
one old hen or two partridges. To these add two beads of celery,
the same number of leeks and carrots, sprigs of thyme and winter
savory, tied into a fagot with some parsley, cloves, mace, and pepper-
corns; moisten with a large ladleful of broth, and put the gravy, thus
marked, on a stove-fire to boil down to a glaze, taking the usual pre-
cautionary measures to prevent it from burning. As soon as the glaze
is sufficiently colored, fill the stockpot up with good broth; when it
boils, skim it, and set it down by the side of the stove-fire to boil gently
for three hours; then strain off the consommi, clarify it with a couple
of whites of eggs, and pass it through a napkin into a soup-pot, to be
used as follows:
RAVIOLIS.
Mix half a pound of sifted flour with four yelks of eggs, a little
salt, and half a pat of butter; let these ingredients be placed on
a paste slab, putting the yelks of eggs, &c, in the centre of the
flour; then knead them into a firm, smooth, compact paste; and
after allowing it to rest in a damp cloth for half an hour, spread
it out with the rolling-pin until it becomes nearly as thin as a sheet
of paper. Place the paste, thus rolled out, lengthwise on the slab,
then, with the paste-brush dipped in water, moisten its whole surface,


NATIONAL SOUPS. 133
ud lay thereon, about two inches apart from each other, some pit*II
round balls of raviolis farce of the size of a cob-nut, in rows. This
farce is prepared as follows:—Put the white parts of a boiled or
roasted fowl, pheasant, or partridge, into a mortar; ponnd the meat
thoroughly, and add thereto about four ounces of fresh-made curd,
two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, two spoonsful of blanched
spinach, pepper, salt, and nutmeg; moisten with four yelks of raw
eggs, and mix the whole well together into a smooth compact body,
ready for use.
Wrap the outer part of the paste, when the raviolis farce has been
laid on it, over the outer row of balls, cover them as if for making
puffs, finish them by fastening down the paste with the thumb, and
then cut them out with a small round fluted cutter into half-moons;
md as they are cut out, place them on a large dish, there to be left
for some time, in order to dry the surface, so that it may more re-
semble Italian paste. Having repeated this operation until yon
have made five or six dozen raviolis, after they have been dried in
tbe larder, proceed to blanch them; this is done by throwing them
into a large stewpan containing some boiling broth, and allowing
them to continue boiling therein for a quarter of an hour; then drain
the raviolis on to a napkin.
Next take the lining of a soup-tureen, butter it, place therein a
layer of raviolis and a layer of grated fresh Parmesan cheese, and so
on alternately, until the silver tureen-lining be filled; shake some
grated cheese on the top, and moisten with two glasses of old Madeira,
and a ladleful of the gravy made for the purpose, and then put the
lining into the oven, or on a slow stove-fire, there to reduce the
gravy to a gratinate. Brown the top over with the heated salaman-
der, and send to table with the remainder of the clear consomme in
the soup-tureen.
This soup should be thus served: With a gravy-spoon help a part
of the grcUinated raviolis, in a soup-plate, and add to these a ladleful
of the consomnU.
376. RICE A LA FLORENTINE.
Prepare a thin purie of rice, and moisten it with consommi of
fowls; finish by adding two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, a
leason of six yelks of eggs, half a pint of cream, a pat of butter, and
a little minionette pepper; then pour the soup thus prepared into the
sonp-tureen, and send to table with two plates of very small croquettes
of rice, which are to be handed round with the soup.
The croquettes of rice here alluded to, are thus made:—
Wash and blanch half a pound of Carolina rice, and boil it in a
little broth with two ounces of fresh butter, and a pinch of minionette
pepper, and a little salt; when done, add two ounces of grated
Parmesan cheese, and four yelks of eggs; work the whole on the
ttove-fire for five minutes, spread it on a plate, and when this paste
is sufficiently cold, mould it into very small round balls. Just before
dinner-time, dip these in some beaten egg, and roll them in flour;
then put them into a large-sized parsley frier, and immerse them in
a quantity of hot clean lard; fry them of a fine deep yellow color,
ind send to table in two hot plates, on napkins, to be handed round
with the soup as before ptated.


134 . NATIONAL SOUPS.
# 377. SOUP A LA PIEMONTAISE.
Prepare a brown puree of turnips (No. 294), in which mix a large
gravy-spoonful of tomatas; just before sending to table, incorporate
with the soup a paste composed of four anchovies washed, filleted,
and ponnded, with a clove of garlic and a pat of butter, all passed
through a fine hair-sjeve; and pour the soup into a tureen contain-
ing four dozen very small quenelles of potatoes (No. 310), and a
plvche of chervil and tarragon (that is to say, the leaves of chervil
and tarragon picked and parboiled green), and send to table with
some grated Parmesan cheese on a plate, to be handed round with the
soup.
373. SOUP A LA BEABNAISE.
Let a quart of garbangas, or large yellow Spanish peas, be put in
soak the overnight, place them in a small stockpot with a piece of
raw ham, and having filled up with common broth, set the stockpot
on the stove-fire to boil; skim it well, and put it by the side to boil
gently for four hours. Meanwhile, cut three large onions, one carrot,
and two heads of celery, into small dice, put these into a stewpan
with two ounces of fresh butter and two cloves of garlic; fry them of
a very light brown color, and after adding half a dozen fresh tomatas,
mix the whole in with the garbangas. As soon as the garbangas
are done, pound and rub them through the tammy, diluting with good
consomme; take the purie up into a small soup-pot, and clarify it in the
usual manner, by allowing it to throw up its roughness while boiling
gently by the side of the stove-fire: remember that this puree must be
kept rather thin. During this process, cut a white-heart cabbage
into quarters, removing the core, shred them as fine as possible, place
them in a stewpan with two ounces of butter on a moderate stove-fire,
and fry them as yon would vegetables for Julienne soup. When they
are considerably reduced in quantity, and become of a yellowish color,
moisten them with a little broth; keep them gently simmering until
they are thoroughly done; add them to the purie, together with
a pinch of minionette pepper, and about half a pint of whole gar-
bangas reserved for- this purpose, and from which take off the hulls
previously to putting them into the soup. When the cabbage has
boiled a few minutes in the puree, pour the soup into the tureen, and
send to table with an accompanying plate of grated Parmesan cheese,
to be handed round with the soup.
379. BOUILLABAISSE OR PROVENCALE SOUP.
Cut four large Portugal onions into slices, and fry them in a gill
of Lucca oil; when they begin to assume a light brown color, add
thereto a sprig of thyme and two cloves of garlic, and shake in a
good handful of flour; stir this on the stove-fire for a few minutes,
moisten with half a bottle of Sauterne wine, and add three pints of
good consommi; stir this sauce on the fire till it boils, then set it by
the side to continue gently simmering for half an hour, and rub it
through the tammy like any other puree; then take it up and pour it
into a small soup-pot. Just before dinner-time, make the soup hot,
and finish by incorporating with it a leason of six yelks of eggs, a little
cayenne, the juice of a lemon, and two ounces of grated Parmesan
cheese; pour the soup into the tureen containing a plateful of


NATIONAL SOUPS. "«» 135
scollops of any sort of fish (crimped cod or whiting h the best for the
purpose) prepared as follows: cut two slices of crimped cod into
small scollops, and pat them into a deep sauta-pan with a little Lucca
oil, minionette pepper, and a little salt, some chopped tarragon and
chervil, and the juice of half a lemon; fry these on the fire, put them
kito the soup-tureen, and when the soup is ponred on them, throw
in a small plateful of duchess' crusts fried in Lucca oil, and send to
table.
380. BORSCH, OR POLISH SOUP.
Place in a good-sized stockpot a large knuckle of veal, an old hen,
partially roasted and colored, a couple of marrow-bones,, one pound
of streaky lean bacon (trimmed and parboiled for the purpose), two
carrots, two heads of celery, and two onions stuck with six cloves; also
a large fagot of parsley and green onions tied together with a little
thyme, sweet basil, bay-leaf, and mace; then add a teaspoonful of white
peppercorns. Fill the stockpot op with prepared juice of beet-root,*
set it upon the stove-fire to boil, and after being skimmed, let it boil
gently by the side of the fire for an hour; then add a fowl, a duck, a
partridge (trussed for boiling), and six pork sausages. Observe, that
the foregoing articles be not overdone, and be careful to take them np
directly they are sufficiently braized; then place them on a dish, and
sot them in the larder to get cold.
While the stock is in preparation, peel two raw beet-roots, and shred
them, also two onions, and an equal quantity of the white part of two
heads of celery, as if for Julienne soup; fry these vegetables in a little
butter, of a light color, moisten with a quart of broth from the boiling
stock, and having gently boiled them down to the consistency of a demi-
glaze, set them by in a soup-pot in the larder. Then chop four ounces
of fillet of beef with the same quantity of beef suet, add a little pepper,
salt, and nutmeg, and two yelks of eggs; pound this force-meat
thoroughly, and use half of it to make thirty small round quenelles, by
rolling them with a little flour on the table; poach these in a little
broth, and having drained them upon a napkin, add them to the shred
vegetables put by in the soup-pot. With the remainder of the force-
meat make the same number of very small oval quenelles, which, after
being rolled with flour, set in a small sauta-pan to be fried of a light
color, just before dinner-time. Boil four eggs hard, cut them in halves
lengthwise; take the yelks out and pound them with two raw yelks of
eggs, a little grated horse-radish, chopped parsley, nutmeg, pepper,
and salt; fill the eggs again with this farce, and having replaced the
halves together, dip them in a beaten egg, and then roll them in bread-
crumb, and set them aside to be fried at the same time as the small
quenelles before mentioned. After five hours' boiling, strain off the
stock-pot; when every particle of fat is removed, clarify it in the usual
way, and then keep the consomme boiling, in order to reduce it to the
quantity required for the soup.
* The beet-root to be used in the bortch is thus made;—Prooure two dozen fine beet-
roots, scraped and washed, bruise them in a mortar, and place them in a large-sized
earthen pan, into which throw in a pailful of water, and two pounds of broad-crumb.
Cover the pan with the lid, carefully cementing it down with a paste of flour and water,
in order to exclude the air; and set the pan in a moderately warm plaoe, so as to acceler-
ate the fermentation. Ten days will suffice to produoe the desired result; on uncover-
ing the pan, it will be found to contain a bright red, acidulated liquor.


136 NATIONAL SOUPS.'
In the meantime, trim the meat off the fowl, duck, and pheasant,
into neat scollops; cat the bacon and sausages'into small round balls,
and carefully place all these ingredients in the silver lining of a soup-
tureen, keeping the shreded vegetables and braized beef quenelles on
the top ; put them in the hot closet until dinner-time. Then grate or
pound a couple of beet-roots, place this in a stewpan on the fire, and
boil it up for a few minutes, extract the juice by strong pressure through
the tammy-cloth, and use it to color the consomme, so as to give it the
appearance of claret. Just before sending to table, pour the boiling
consomme to the ingredients contained in the soup-tureen, adding a
pinch of minionette pepper; send up the fried eggs cut in halves,
and also the fried quenelles, in a plate, to be handed round with the
borsch.
381. OUKA, OR RUSSIAN SOUP.
Place in a stockpot a large knuckle of veal, about a pound of raw
ham, and two old hens, roasted for the purpose; fill up with common
broth, set it to boil, and having skimmed it, gamish it with the usual
vegetables, adding thereto either a handful of parsley-roots or a couple
of parsnips. After five hours' boiling, strain off the consomme, and
clarify it in the usual manner; strain it again through a napkin into a
soup-pot, to be set aside until wanted to finish the soup. While the
stock is boiling, take -two pounds of crimped salmon, two large
live perch, a Thames eel, and two fine mullets; fillet and cut
these into scollops, placing them neatly in a deep sauta-pan; sea-
son with a pldche of picked parsley, chervil, and tarragon leaves
(the latter in a small proportion), some boiled shred parsley-roots,
minionette pepper, grated nutmeg, salt, and the fourth part of a
bottle of Chablis or Sauterne; having first allowed these scollops to
boil on the stove for five minutes, moisten with a quart of essence
of fish (made with the carcasses and trimmings of the fish used for
the scollops), let them boil quickly for ten minutes longer, and then
pour the consomme' to them; after they have boiled together two or three
minutes, pour the soup into the tureen containing three dozen small
quenelles of whiting, in which some lobster coral and puree of mush-
rooms have been mixed. Ascertain that the seasoning is appropriate,
and send to table.
This soup is a species of souchet, and may be varied by using
different kinds of fish. It is much esteemed by those who are fond of
fish.
38lA. TSCHI, OR CABBAGE SOUP A LA RTJSSE.
First, cut four onions into small dice, and fry them with a little
butter in a stewpan over a slow fire, and when they assume a light
yellow-brown color, add to these a white-heart cabbage which has
been previously shred fine for the purpose, and, after having con-
tinued to fry this also with the onions for about ten minutes, two
tablespoonsful of flour should be added; stir the whole well together,
moistening with three pints of good consommi, season with a little
nutmeg and minionette pepper, and when, after the soup has boiled
gently by the side of the stove for about an hour, in order to clarify
it, let it be well skimmed; and previously to sending the soup to.
table, add a plvche of tarragon leaves and some lemon-juice. Pre-
viously to pouring the Tschi into the soup-tureen, place therein


NATIONAL SOUPS. 137
about three dozen small sausages made in manner following, viz. :—
To four ounces of lean fillet of beef, add an equal quantity of beef snet;
first cbop, and then pound these well together in a mortar, season with
grated nutmeg, pepper, and salt, and some chopped parsley; add
three yelks of eggs, mix well together by pounding the whole ten
minutes longer, after which proceed to roll the sausage meat into small
round or oval shapes the size of a cob-nut; and, after frying these of a
light color in a little clarified butter use them as directed above.
382. OLLA PODRIDA, OR SPANISH NATIONAL SOUP.
Place some slices of raw ham at the bottom of the stockpot, add
five pounds of gravy beef cut in slices, and a roasted old hen; garnish
with the usual vegetables, two cloves, and mace; moisten with a quart
of broth, set the stockpot on the fire, and let the broth be reduced to a
glaze; fill it up with water as soon as it boils, skim it, and then set
the stock to boil gently by the side of the stove. When the consomme
has boiled two hours, throw in a large fowl and two partridges trussed
for boiling, six pork sausages, and two Spanish savaloys (which are to
be had at all the first-rate Italian warehouses), watch the braizing of
these, to prevent their being overdone; take them out when they are
sufficiently braized, place them upon a dish to get cool, then divide the
fowl and partridges into small members, trimming them neatly, and
cut the sausages and savaloys also into small round balls, and place
all these in a soup-pot, together with three carrots and as many turnips
cut into the form of rather large-sized olives, and some shred celery
and leeks, previously boiled in consomme with a small lump of sugar;
to these must also be added some boiled yellow Spanish peas (gar-
banras) free from their hulls. After four hours' boiling, strain the
stock off, clarify it, and strain it again through a napkin; add it to the
fore-named ingredients with a pinch of minionette pepper; boil the
whole for ten minutes, and send to table.
383. TURKISH PILAFF, OR PILAU.
Place a knuckle of veal on some slices of raw ham in a stockpot,
also a roasted shoulder of lamb and a large fowl trussed for boiling;
fill up with common broth or water, and having skimmed the broth,
garnish with the usual vegetables. As soon as the fowl and lamb are
done, take them up, and when cold cut the meat off the shoulder of
lamb into small cutletlike pieces, and the fowl into neatly-trimmed
members. Place these in a small soup-pot with half a pound of
Carolina rice, boiled in some of the consommi, after it has been clari-
fied and seasoned with an infusion of rather less than a quarter of an
ounce of hay 6affron, and cayenne; and then having reduced the con-
sommi to two-thirds of its original quantity, pour it upon the foregoing
ingredients, adding six ounces of dried cherries or Sultana raisins; boil
these together for a quarter of an hour, and send to table.
This kind of soup is very nutritious, and, from the cayenne and
saffron contained in it, is calculated to give tone to the stomach.


138
ITALIAN SOUPS,
Maeanrat Soup d la Royale. Semolina Soup d la Palermo.
„ n dla Medico*. „ „ d la Vinitienne.
„ d la St. Pierre. „ „ d la Pitant.
384. MACARONI SOUP A LA BOY ALE.
Boil tea ounces of Naples macaroni in two quarts of boiling water,
with two ounces of fresh butter, a little minionette pepper, and salt.
When the macaroni has boiled half an hour, drain it off upon a sieve,
cut it into half-inch lengths, and boil it in two quarts of good chicken
or game consomme for ten minutes ; take it off the stove and mix with
it a leason of six yelks of eggs, half a pint of cream, two ounces of
grated Parmesan cheese, and a little minionette pepper; set the leason
in the soup by stirring it on the stove-fire for three minutes, and send
to table.
Vermicelli or any other Italian paste may be substituted for the
macaroni. This soup is sometimes designated "a I'ltalienne."
385. MACARONI SOUP A LA MEDICIS.
Boil ten ounces of Naples macaroni, and cut it into inch lengths;
at the same time trim the tails of thirty crayfish, and the same nnmber
of quenelles of fowl, colored with crayfish butter; place these in the
silver lining of a soup-tureen according to the following directions:—-
Butter the bottom of the lining and spread thereon a layer of maca-
roni, then a layer of grated Parmesan cheese, after which place a layer
of crayfish tails; repeat the layer of grated cheese, and place on that
a layer of small quenelles: and thus proceed until the several articles
prepared for the purpose are disposed of. Then add a pint of strong
consomme, and cover the top with grated cheese; melt a small pat of
fresh butter over the fire, and sprinkle it on the top of the whole
preparation; then set the tureen lining thus filled to gratinate in the
oven, which will require about half an hour. Lastly, place the lining
on a dish to be served from the side-table, while the bright clear con-
somme is to be sent up in another tureen.
In helping the soup at table, first put a small ladleful of the prepara-
tion of macaroni, &c, on a soup plate, and add to it a ladleful of the
consomme.
386. MACARONI SOUP A LA ST. PIERRE.
Cut some macaroni that has been boiled, into inch lengths, place
them in a stewpan with four ounces of lobster-coral butter and a
little cayenne, simmer it gently on the fire for tet minutes, and then
place a fourth part in a silver soup lining; on this sprinkle some
grated Parmesan cheese, then put a layer of blanched soft roses of
mackerel, over which place some grated cheese, again cover this with
some prepared scollops of salmon; and thus repeat the foregoing
instructions until the ingredients are all used up, finishing this part


ITALIAN SOUPS. 139
of the operation by sprinkling over the whole some grated cheese,
and adding a pint of good consomme; lastly, place the lining in the
oven to gratinate, which most be carefully attended to. Send the
soup to table with another turueu of clear bright consomme, to be
served to the guests in the same manner as described in the preceding
article.
387. SEMOLINA SOUP A LA PALERMO.
Mix four ounces of wheaten flour with the same quantity of Turk-
ish wheat flour, place these on the paste-board or slab, and having
made a hollow in the centre, place in it four yelks of eggs, a little
cream, pepper, salt, and nutmeg; proceed to work these into a
firmly-kneaded paste. Spread this ont very thin with the aid of a
rolling-pin, and having cut it into bands an inch wide, shred these so
as to resemble vermicelli. Strew these shreds on a large baking
sheet covered with paper, and put them to dry for four hours in the
hot closet. A quarter of an hour before dinner-time, throw the
shreds thus prepared into two quarts of boiling game consomme;
skim this, and place the stepwan containing the soup by the side of
the stove-fire, to continue gently boiling until the time for serving;
then, after adding a pinch of minionette pepper, send to table with
some grated Parmesan cheese on a plate, to be handed round with
the soup.
388. SEMOLINA SOUP A LA VENITIENNE.
Throw six ounces of semolina into two quarts of boiling consommi
of game; after boiling gently by the side of the stove-fire for a
quarter of an hour, add a glass of Madeira, two ounces of grated
Parmesan cheese, half a pint of cream mixed with four yelks of eggs,
a little crystallized soluble cayenne, and the juice of half a lemon.
Set this preparation on the stove-fire, taking care not to let it curdle,
then pour the soup into a tureen containing the fillets of two dozen
larks which have been simmered with fine herbs. Stir the soup
gently into the tureen, in order to mix the scollops with the semolina.
In Italy, the fillets of a small delicious bird, called Beccaficas, are
used instead of larks.
389. SEMOLINA SOUP A. LA PISANE.
Bone and braize two calf's feet, and having pressed them between
two dishes, cut them out into round pieces the size of a shilling, with
a tin cutter; place these in a stewpan together with three dozen very
small quenelles a la Xavier (No. 257) and a glass of Madeira; allow
them to simmer on the fire for five minutes, and add them to a similar
quantity and description of soup as directed in the preceding article,
but omitting the fillets of larks, and send to table.
Note.—The foregoing soups may be prepared, witn equal success,
by using any of the numerous sorts of Italian pastes, instead of keep-
ing to those described for the purpose. The soups may also be in-
finitely varied by changing their garnishes.


140
PANADAS AND LIGHT SOUPS FOR INFANTS AND
INVALIDS,
COMPRISING
Chicken Panada. Nutritious liquid custards of chicken.
Pheasant or Partridge Panada. „ „ game.
Chicken or game custards Ceylon moss gelatinous chicken broth.
Venison Panada.
390. CHICKEN PANADA.
Roast off a young fowl, take all the white parts and pound them
with the crumb of a French roll soaked in broth; dilute these with
a little chicken broth (made from the remains of the roasted fowl) to
the consistency of a soft batter or creamy substance; pass it through
a tammy as in preparing any other puree. Previous to serving this
panada, it should be moderately warmed, and put into custard cups.
In the composition of every sort of dietetic preparation for the use
of infants and invalids, it is strictly necessary to avoid the use of herbs,
vegetables, and spices; even salt should be used sparingly.
391. PHEASANT OR PABTRIDGE PANADA.
Pheasant or partridge panada is prepared in the same manner as
described for making the chicken panada; game being substituted for
poultry.
392. CHICKEN OR GAME CUSTARDS.
Cut a young fowl into quarters, take the lungs away from the back-
bone, wash the fowl, and then place it in a stewpan with a little pars-
ley, chervil, half a head of celery, and a turnip. Fill the stewpan with
three pints of cold water, place it on the fire, and as soon as it boils,
skim it thoroughly, and set it by the side of the fire to remain boiling
for an hour; after which strain the broth into a basin through a nap-
kin, and use it in the following manner:—
According to the number of custard-cups required to be filled, place
ro many yelks of eggs in a basin; to these add the same number of
custard-cupsful of prepared chicken broth, and with a spoon or fork,
beat these together, in order to mix them thoroughly ; then pass them,
by pressure, through the tammy, fill the custard-cups, steam them in
the usual manner, and send them up quickly.
These custards should be eaten very soon after being made, as they
become heavy when warmed a second time.
393. VENISON PANADA.
Table a pound (more or less) of the lean part of either a roasted
haunch or neck of venison, mince it, and then pound it with the
crumb of a French roll which has been soaked in good broth; dilute
with a little consommi, and pass the panada through a tammy as
usual. Just before sending this panada up, warm it carefully, so as
not to allow it to get too hot, as it would then be liable to become
somewhat decomposed and rough, and rather indigestible for a deli-
cate stomach.


PANADAS AND LIGHT SOUPS. 141
394. NUTRITIOUS LIQUID CUSTARD OF CHICKEN.
Prepare the chicken broth as directed for making chicken custards,
take half a pint of this, and mix it thoroughly with two yelks of new-
laid eggs; stir it over the stove-fire, or, if practicable, over the heat of
steam, until the mixture becomes somewhat thickened, assuming a soft
creamy appearance; pour it into a broth basin or caudle-cup, and let
it be instantly served.
395. NUTRITIOUS LIQUID CUSTARD OF GAME.
This sort of custard is prepared similarly to the foregoing, substi-
tuting pheasant or partridge for poultry.
396. CEYLON MOSS GELATINOUS CHICKEN BROTH.
Cut a fowl into four parts, take out the lungs, and wash it thoroughly,
place it in a stewpan with four ounces of prepared Ceylon moss, adding
three pints of water and a little salt; having boiled the broth for three-
quarters of an hour by the side of a stove-fire, pass it through a napkin,
and serve it in a caudle-cup to the invalid.


142
DRESSED FISH IN GENERAL.
TURBOT AND BRILL,
C0MPRISIN8
Turbot, plain boiled. Turbot, d la MarfehaU.
„ d la Paririinne. Filleta of Turbot, d I'Indiinne
.
„ broiled d la Provencule. „ „ d la Jiavigotte.
„ d la Curime. „ „ d la Veriprf, or green.
'„ d la Vatel. „ „ Mavigolte.
,. d la erf me au gratin. „ „ d I ' lialiinne.
,, tit Mateloite Normande, „ „ d la Cardinal.
„ d la Bfckamel. Brill,—John Dory.
397. PLAIN BOILED TURBOT OR A L'ANGLAISE.
Procure if possible a turbot conveyed by land-carriage, of moderate
size: the larger fish are never delicate; choose it thick and plump,
open it to ascertain that the back-bone is free from color, as when it
has a reddish appearance, although perfectly fresh, it is sure to boil
of a bad color. Wash the turbot, wipe it dry, and rub it over with
the juice of a lemon and a little salt; put it into a fit-sized turbot-
kettle, add a sufficient quantity of spring-water to cover the fish, then
throw in a good handful of salt, and set the turbot on the stove to
boil; as soon as the water begins to simmer, skim it thoroughly, and
lift the kettle from the fire down by the side, there to remain gently
boiling for half an hour, more or less, according to the size of the
fish. When the turbot is done, lift it out of the water with the
drainer; slip it carefully on to a dish prepared to receive it, and send
it to table with two sauce-boats filled with lobster and Dutch sauces
(Nos. 42 and 55).
398. TURBOT A LA PARISIENNE.
Choose a turbot weighing about 4 lbs., trim the fins off close, make
an incision in the back from head to tail, and, inserting the knife on
either side, detach the fish from the bone right up to the fins; then
cut the back bone through, close to the head and tail, and carefully
separate the under part of the fish from the bone, so as not to run
the knife through; bone the turbot in this manner, wipe it with a
clean cloth, season it inside with a little pepper and salt, and spread
a layer of quenelle force-meat of whitings, mixed with a spoonful of
chopped fine herbs, inside. Then butter a large baking-sheet, and
place the turbot upon it, with the white side uppermost; moisten
with a bottle of French white wine, some essence of mushrooms, and
oyster liquor; season with a little pepper and salt, place a buttered
paper over the whole, and set the fish to boil on the stove: next pat


TURBOT AND BRILL. • 143
it in the oven to simmer gently for about three-quarters of an hour,
taking care to baste the turbot with its liquor every five minutes, so
that it may thus be made to absorb the greater portion while steVing.
When the turbot is done, drain it from its liquor on to a large earftien
dish, and put it to cool in the larder, reserving the liquor in which
it has been stewed to be reduced and mixed with a sufficient quantity *.
of Parisian sauce (No. 40;, to be used for garnishing the turbot^
when dished up. When the turbot is cold, place it on a buttered
baking-sheet, and spread it over with a thin layer of reduced Alle-
mande sauce, over which shake some very finely-sifted bread-crumbs,
fried of a light color; moisten the fish with a little consomme and
wine, and put it in the oven about twenty minutes before sending
it to table, that it may get thoroughly warm through; when about,
to dish it up, slide it gently off the baking-sheet on to a dish, and
sauce it round with part of the Parisian sauce prepared for the pur* ,
pose; garnish it round with groups of crayfish tails, muscles, oysters,
button-mushrooms, and small round truffles, tossed in a little glaze
to give them a bright appearance. Send up the remainder of the) £
sauce in a boat.
399. BOILED TURBOT A LA PROVENCALE.
Procure a small plump turbot, make an incision in the back, and,
with a strong knife, cut away an inch of the spine, trim the fins close, f
score it rather deep on the back, and then place it on an earthen
dish to steep for four hours in a marinade made of the following
ingredients: sliced carrot, onions, sprigs of parsley, bay-leaf and
thyme, three cloves of garlic, pepper and salt, the juice of a lemon,
and a gill of salad-oil. Let the turbot be frequently rubbed»and
turned in this marinade, that it may be thoroughly impregnated with
its flavor. About three-quarters of an hour before dinner, remove
every particle of vegetable from the turbot, place it, with the white
side under, on a gridiron (previously rubbed with chalk of whiting),
and set it to broil on a clear fire, of moderate heat: twenty minutes
will suffice to broil it on one side; it must then be carefully removed
on to a deep baking-sheet, upon its back, first placing the whole of
the marinade in the baking-sheet or dish; moisten with half a bottle
of light white wine, at'd then put the turbot in the oven to bake;
observing that it must be basted every five minutes with its liquor.
When the turbot is done, lift it carefully on to its dish, put the whole
of the marinade in which it has been baked into a stewpan with the ^".
remaining half bottle of wine; boil the whole together for five minutes,
strain it with pressure through a tammy into a stewpan, and reduce
it with some AU.emande sauce: add a pint of anchovy butter, some
chopped and blanched parsley, a spoonful of capers, and a little
cayenne; garnish the turbot round with this sauce, adding groups of
muscles fried in batter, and some lobster cut into neat scollops, and
tossed in lobster-coral to give them a scarlet hue. Send some of the
sauce to table in a boat.
400. TURBOT A LA CAREME.
Prepare a turbot according to the foregoing directions, omitting
the garlic; when it is done, reduce the liquor, and incorporate it
it in a sufficient quantity of Dutch sauce, having Suprtme sauce foa


144
DRESSED FISH IN GENERAL,
its foundation; add some lobster butter, cayenne, and lemon-juice;
work the sauce well together over the fire, and pour it round the
turbot; glaze the fish lightly, garnish it with groups of fine large cray-
fish and quenelles of whiting colored with some green Ravigotte (No.
185). Serve the remainder of the sauce in a boat.
400a. turbot a la vatkl.
Prepare and dress a turbot according to the directions given for
turbot d la Parisienne (No. 398); when done, drain and place it on
a dish, reduce the liquor in which it has been baked, and incorporate -
it with some Supreme sauce, finished with green Ravigotte butter (No.
185); add two dozen oysters, some button mushrooms, and thirty
crayfish tails, lemon-juice, and cayenne. Cover the turbot with this
sauce, and garnish it round with fried smelts, trussed with their tails
in their mouths, (and previously boned and stuffed), with an inner
row of small fillets of soles, which have been contises, one-half with
truffles, and the other with thin scollops of the red part of the tail of a
lobster turned round, and simmered in a little butter in a sauta-pan.
Serve as usual some of the sauce in a boat.
401. TURBOT A LA CREME AU GRATIN.
Boil a turbot, drain it on a dish, and while it cools, prepare some
cream Bbchamel sauce (No. 5); reduce it, and add the yelks of four
eggs, four ounces of grated fresh Parmesan cheese, a little minionette
pepper, grated nutmeg, and lemon-juice. With a spoon cut the turbot
into flakes, and put them in the sauce, taking care to waste none of
the delicate meaty part of the fins, the cheeks, and the glutinous mem-
branes of the fish. Stir the whole lightly together, and pile it neatly
in the shape of a dome on the dish; cover it thoroughly and smoothly
with some finely-sifted bread-crumbs fried and mixed with a fourth
part of grated Parmesan cheese; garnish round with fried croquettes
of potatoes; and twenty minutes before sending to table, put the
turbot thus prepared into the oven to gratinate; pass the redhot
salamander over it to melt the cheese, and pour round the inner circle
of the croquettes some Bechamel sauce made with good rich cream.
Send up some of the sauce in a boat.
40lA. TURBOT A LA CREME AU GRATIN, ANOTHER 'WAT.
This, as well as the foregoing, may be prepared from the remnants
of a previously-dressed fish, as follows:
Place the flakes of turbot in a stewpan with a sufficient quantity
of cream Bechamel sauce (No. 6), pile it up in the centre of the dish,
shake some grated Parmesan cheese on the surface, pour some double
cream over this, and having placed the dish over a moderate stove-
fire in order to gratinate the fish slightly, at the same time hold a red-
hot salamander over it to give the surface a very light brown color;
which, when satisfactorily terminated, some potato croquettes, or pas-
try Jleurons, should be neatly placed round the edge of the dish and
immediately served.
402. TURBOT AS MATELOTTE NORMANDE.
Prepare a small plump turbot in every respect according to the
iirections given for dressing a turbot d la Parisienne (No. 398);


TURBOT AND BRILL. 145
when done, drain and place it on a dish; reduce the liquor, add to it
gome Allemande sauce, in which mix two pats of butter, some chopped
and blanched parsley, the juice of a lemon, and a little cayenne; work
the sauce well together on the fire, and then add two dozen button-
mushrooms, the same quantity of blanched oysters or muscles, and an
equal proportion of very small quenelles of whiting; cover the turbot
with the sauce, and garnish it round with some trimmed large crayfish
and glazed crdutons of fried bread.
403. TURBOT A LA BECHAMEL.
Prepare some good rich cream Bechamel sauce (No. 6), put the
flakes of some boiled turbot in it, toss them lightly together on the fire,
serve the turbot piled up on the dish in the form of a dome, and garnish
it round with potato croquettes, Jleurons of puff paste, or croutons of
bread.
This method of dressing turbot, as well as turbot a la crime au-
grtUin, is generally had recourse to for the purpose of turning the
previous day's fish to a good account; nevertheless the sauces, in both
cases, really deserve that the turbot should be boiled for the express
purpose.
Turbot dressed as above may also be served in a vol-au-vent.
404. TURBOT A LA MARECHALE.
Prepark a turbot as for Matelotte Normande (No. 402), drain it, and
set it on a dish to cool; then spread it over on both sides with some
reduced Allemande sauce ; shake some fine bread-crumbs over this, and
after dipping it in some eggs seasoned with a little salt, and whipped
up in a dish for the purpose, bread-crumb it over again thoroughly.
About twentyjninutes before dinner, place the turbot on a wire receiver,
and fry it in a convenient-sized pan, containing some clean hog's lard,
heated to a proper degree. As soon as the coating on the turbot is
colored of a very light brown color, take the fish out of the fat on to a
cloth, press it lightly with a clean napkin, in order to absorb any
grease there may be on it, and placing it on a baking-sheet, keep it in
the hot closet till required to be dished up, put the turbot then on a
dish, and pour round the following sauce :—
Reduce the liquor in which the turbot has been baked, and add to
it some Allemande sauce, and mix in a pat of anchovy butter, some
green Savigotle, lemon-juice, and cayenne. Next, garnish round with
quenelles of whiting shaped with two dessert-spoons, one-half of which
must be colored with lobster-coral, and the other with some black
truffles chopped very fine, and mixed in the quenelle force-meat pre-
viously to their being shaped. Send to table some of the sauce as
usual in a boat.
405. FILLETS OF TURBOT A L'lNDIENNE.
Cut a small turbot into neatly-trimmed fillets or scollops, set them
carefully in a deep sauta-pan with a little fresh butter, and two
spoonsful of Cook's excellent fish curry paste ;' put the lid on the
sauta-pan, and place it on a slow fire, or in the oven, to simmer gently
for twenty minutes; then take it out, and add thereto some Veloute
9


146
*DEESSED FISH IN GENERAL.
sauce (No. 2), and set the whole to boil together a few minutes on the
stove; then dish up the fillets, one overlaying the other—in a circle;
pass the sauce through a tammy, make it hot, and mix in a pat of
butter; mask the fillets with the sauce, and serve.
406. FILLETS OF TUBBOT A LA BAVIGOTTE.
Prepare the fillets of turbot as directed in No. 405, place them in
a sauta-pan with some fresh butter, season with pepper and salt, and
lemon-juice; ten minutes before dinner set them on a moderate fire, and
when sufficiently simmered on one side, turn them carefully on the other,
so as not to break them; when done, drain the fillets on a napkin, and
dish them up, overlaying each other—so as to form a close circle;
sauce them with some white Ravigotte sauce (No. 20), and send to
table.
407. FILLETS OF TUBBOT A LA VEBTBE.
Prepare the fillets as for the previous entrie, and dish them up in a
similar manner; fill the centre with thirty crayfish tails; pour some
sauce d la Bavigotte (No. 21), over the fillets, and serve.
408. FILLETS OF TUBBQT A L'lTALIENNE.
Prepare, dress, and fish up the fillets of turbot as in the previous
case, and sauce the entree with some brown Italian sauce (No. 12), in
which incorporate a pat of anchovy butter and a teaspoonful of chopped
capers.
409. FILLETS OF TURBOT A LA CABDINAL.
Cut, dress, and dish up the fillets of tnrboUas directed in former
cases; sauce them with some Cardinal sauce^No. 48), and garnish
the centre of the entree with prawns or crayfish tails, small quenelles
of whiting or lobster, and a few small button-mushrooms.
Fillets of turbot may be dressed in a variety of ways, according to
the sauce or garnish used, from which accordingly the fillets derive their
denomination : as, for instance, d la Maitre d1 Hotel, a la sauce Homard,
or Lobster sauce, d la sauce aux Huitres, or Oyster sauce, &c, &c, &c.
410. BBILL. -'
This species of fish, bearing a great resemblance to turbot, may be
dressed in every variety of form in which turbot is capable of being
sent to table; it may also be served plain, boiled with either Lobster,
Shrimp, Crayfish, Anchovy, Caper, Dutch, Oyster, Muscle, or Ravigotte
sauce.
411. JOHN DOBY.
This kind of fish, although a great favorite with many, is very seldom
sent to table in any other shape than as a plain boiled fish, either with
Lobster or Dutch sauce; it may, however, be broiled with Champagne
sauce, for which see turbot dressed in that manner (No. 398).


Ul
SALMON,
COMPRISING
Salmon & la Chambord. Salmon d In Warickale.
„ <2 la Rigence. „ d I'Anglaite.
„ d la G&noite. „ d VEvottaiic.
„ d la Cardinal. Slices of Salmon d la Tartare.
„ d la Victoria, ifatelvtle of Salmon.
„ „ d la Vfnitiinnt*
412. SALMON A LA CHAMBORD.
Table a whole salmon, and when properly cleansed, truss it in the
shape of the letter S, which is effected in the following manner:—
Thread a trussing needle with some twine, pass this through the eyes
of the fish, and fasten the jowl by tying the string under the jaw; then
pass the needle through the centre part of the body of the salmon,
draw the string^ight, and fasten it round the extremity of the tail; the
fish will then assume the desired form.
Boil the salmon in salt and water; when done, drain it on a dish,
and immediately take off the whole of the skin, and put the fish to
cool in the larder. In the meantime, prepare some quenelle force-
meat of whitings, part of which should be colored with some
pounded lobster coral, and as soon as the salmon is cold, spread a
layer of this over the whole surface of the fish, taking care to smooth
it with the blade of a large knife dipped in hot water; this part of
the process being completed, ornament the salmon by laying some
fillets of soles which have been contisis with truffles in a slanting
position across the back, fastening the ends under the belly of the
salmon by means of the force-meat; mark out the head and eyes of
the fish with fillets of black truffles. Then place the salmon on a
buttered drainer of a fish-keltle, and cover the fish with thin layers
of fat bacon; moisten with a bottle of dry Champagne, garnish with
a fagot of parsley, thyme and bay-leaf, sliced carrot, and onion;
place a battered paper over the whole, and put the lid on. Next,
make it boil on the stove-fire, and then put it in the oven or on a
slow fire to simmer gently for three-quarters of an hour; drain the
salmon and place it on a dish, and put it in the hot closet till wanted
for table.
Meanwhile, strain the liquor in which the salmon has been braized,
reduce it to a glaze, add some finished Espagnole or brown sauce,
essence of mushrooms, a little grated nutmeg, a pat of anchovy
butter, and lemon-juice; and pass the sauce through a tammy into a
hain-marie.
Just before sending to table, remove the layers of bacon, and arrange
groups of quenelles of whiting, mushrooms, truffles, larg#crayfish, and
soft roes of mackerel, round the salmon, sauce the fish round in the
inner circle with the hot sauce, and serve. Let there be some of the
sauce, with truffles, mushrooms, and small quenelles of whiting in it,
•ent to table in a boat.


148
DRESSED FISH IN GENERAL.

413. SALMON A LA REGENCE.
Bon, a whole salmon, remove the skin, and mask it over with strong
glaze, mixed with some ponnded lobster coral; place the salmon on an
oval crdustade of fried bread, about three inches high, on the dish;
pour round it some Regent's sauce, finished with some anchovy hotter
and lemon-juice; and garnish it with alternate groups of quenelles of
salmon (mixed with some finely-chopped truffles), some large crayfish,
button-mushrooms, and small fillets of soles decorated with green
gherkins, rolled in a spiral shape, and simmered in a little butter and
lemon-juice. Form a decoration on the back and head of the fish,
with some ornamented fillets of soles; send up some of the sauce in a
boat. ,
414. SALMON A LA GENOISE.
Bon, a salmon, skin it, and place it on a dish ; mask it with Ginoise
sauce (No. 30), and garnish it round with lobster quenelles, bntton-
mushrooms, some glazed tails of very small lobsters, quenelles of
whiting, half of which must be colored with extract of spinach or
Ravigotte herbs, and the remainder with chopped truffles. All these
garnishes are appropriate in ornamenting this dish, but it is desirable
not to use too many sorts of garnishes in the preparation of one dish,
so as not to produce an unseemly species of medley. Scud up some
Qenoise sauce in a boat.
415. SALMON A LA CARDINAL.
Bon, and ■kin a salmon that has been previously trussed, as
directed in the first article of this chapter; cover it with a thin
smooth coating of lobster quenelles; ornament it with a representa-
tion of the# scales of the fish, by placing alternate rows of half-
moons of truffles on its surface, marking out the eyes and pills, also
with fillets of truffles. Cover the salmon with very thin layers of*fnt
bacon, moisten with half a bottle of white wine, and a ladleful of
good broth; cover with a buttered paper, place the lid on the fish-


SALMON.
149
kettle containing the salmon, and set it to simmer on a moderate fire
for three-quarters of an boar. Then drain the salmon, place it in a
dish, on a crouslade, and keep it in the hot closet till wanted. Mean-
while, reduce the liquor in which the salmon has been braized with the
remaining half-bottle of wine, and mix with it some Cardinal sauce
(No. 48); remove the layers of bacon, glaze the fish lightly and sance
it. Garnish it round with groups of truffles, mushrooms, crayfish tails,
and quenelles of lobster.
As usual, send up some of the sauce in a boat.
416. SALMON A LA VICTORIA.
Braize a salmon in a mirepoix (No. 237) made with claret; when
the fish is done, skin it, and place it on a low crdustade, on a dish.
Then, after divesting the mirepoix in which the fish has been done, of
all grease, put one-third of it into, a stewpau, boil it down to a demi-
glaze, and work it in with some brown sauce; add a pat of anchovy
butter, and a good piece of lobster butter, cayenne, and lemon-juice;
mix the whole well together, and pour the sance over the salmon.
Garnish it round with groups of crayfish tails, fried fillets of smelts, and
small quenelles of whiting.
Send some of the sauce up to table iu a boat, and put some thin
scollops of lobster in it
417. SALMON A LA MARKCHALE.
Tbcss a salmon in the shape of the letter S, boil it in salt and water,
ski a and cover it with a coating of reduced Allemande sauce, and set
it to cool in the larder; then shake some very fine bread-crumbs over
it, and after fixing them on the sauce by gentle pressure with the blade
of a knife, egg the salmon over with a paste-brush dipped in three
whole eggs beaten up with a little nutmeg, pepper, and salt; again
shake some bread-crumbs over it, smoothing them on the salmon with
the blade of a knife; place the fish on a deep baking-dish, previously
battered for the purpose, moisten with a little white wine and con-
tommi, or some mirepoix. About three-quarters of an hour before
dinner-time, put the salmon in the oven, and bake it of a deep yellow
or very light brown color; then place the salmon carefully on a dish,
sauce it round with Crayfish or Supreme Dutch sauce, in which has
been added an infusion of horse-radish, and garnish round with a
border of quenelles of gurnets, and fried smelts trussed as whitings are
for frying.^ftv
418. SALMON A L'ANGLAISB.
Bon. the salmon, either whole or in slices, in salt and water; when
done, dish it up on a silver drainer, without a napkin. Plain boiled
fish should never be sent to table on napkins, nor garnished round with
cold wet parsley, neither is it advisable to garnish with fried small fish,
the latter thereby generally becoming soddened and spoilt; the mixed
vapor arising from both kinds o^ fish, when thus covered up, is detri-
mental to the flavor of each.
Dish up the salmon, and send it to table with either of the following
sauces: Lobster, Shrimp, Crayfish, Dutch, Parsley and butter, or
Muscle sauce.


150 DRESSED FISH IN GENERAL.
419. SALMON A L'ECOSSAISE.
To dress salmon or trout in perfection in this style, it is quite neces
sary that the fish be dressed a short time after being caught: sportsmen
well know that it is only while this kind of fish is yet almost alive, that
it retains that white creamy substance which appears between the
flakes of the boiled fish, and which makes it so truly delicious: this is
little known to the London epicure. If it be practicable to procure
what is termed a live xalmon, take out the gills, draw it, wash the fish,
and crimp it on either side, by making deep incisions with a sharp
knife, and then throw it into a large vessel, containing clean, cold,
spring water, fresh from the pump—to remain there about two hours.
In crimping any sort offish, the colder the water is the better; the
coldness of the water, petrifying the fish to a certain degree, gives it
the firmuess so much desired. As soon as the salmon or tront is
crimped, put it into the fish-kettle-containing boiling water in sufficient
quantity to cover the fish, at the same time throwing in a good handful
of salt; let the fish boil on the side of the fire, remembering that
crimped fish require considerably less time in boiling than when plain.
As soon as the fish is done, take it out of the water immediately:
leaving fish of any kind in the water after it is done, detracts from its
flavor and firmuess. When the salmon is dished up, send it to table
with Lobster sauce, Parsley and butter, or the following sauce :—Put
half a pound of fresh-churned butter into a clean stewpan, add a
spoonful of chopped and blanched parsley, a little grated nutmeg, a
pinch of miniouette pepper, some salt and juice of lemon; set the
stewpan in a bath of hot water, and keep stirring the butter quickly as
it melts, with a wooden spoon ; when the whole of the butter is melted,
work the sauce well together, and serfd to table. With crimped salmon
or trout, this kind of melted butter will be found to surpass all other
sauces.
420. SLICES OF SALMON A LA TARTARE.
Steep some slices of salmon in a dish with a little salad-oil, pepper
and salt, and a few sprigs of parsley; about half an hour before dinner,
place the slices ol salmon on a clear gridiron rubbed over with whiting,
and broil them on a clear fire; when done on one side, turn them on
the other: both sides should be of a fine light brown; dish them up,
and send to table with either some Tartars, Cambridge, or Remoulade
sauce in a boat (Nos. 94, 95, 96).
421. MATELOTTE OF SALMON.
Boil and take the skin off one or more slices of salmon, mask them
with some glaze mixed with pounded lobster-coral; place them ou a
dish and garnish with a rich Malelotte ragout (No. 193).
422. SLICES OF SALMON A LA VENITIENNE.
Boil, trim, and glaze the slices of salmon, as in the foregoing case,
and sauce them round with a sauce d la Venitienne (No. 26). Garnish
with a border of croquettes of fillets of soles.


0
TROUT,
COMPRISING
Trout a I'ftaliinne. Trout d I'Aurore.
,, d la Gtuconne. ,, a /a Piriguenz.
„ d la Chevaliire. „ in paper cases, with fine herbs.
„ u l'i Vtrtpri. „ d /m Jloyale.
„ an gratin. „ broiled, «it.i Dutch sauce.
423. TROUT A L'ITALIENNE.
Boil the trout in salt and water, divest it of the skin, glace and
place it on a dish; then mask it with some Italian sauce in which has
been mixed a pat of anchovy butter, a very little nutmeg, aud lemon-
juice. Garnish with crayfish and quenelles of whiting.
424. TROUT A LA GASCONNE.
Bon, and dish up the trout as directed in the foregoing instance,
and pour round it some of the sauce denominated a la Gasconni
(No. 68). Garnish with fillets of soles prepared as paupiettes (for
which see No. 1131), aud between each paupielte place a group of
crayfish tails that have been tossed in a little glaze, and some pounded
lobster-corai.
425. TROUT A LA CHEVALIERS.
Boil, skin, and trim one or more trout, and cover them all over
with some D'Uxelles or Papillotte sauce: when the sauce, by getting
cold, has become set on the trout, roll them in very fine bread-
crumbs, and afterward egg them over and roll them again in the
bread-crumbs, in which Parmesan cheese has been mixed in the pro-
portion of one-third; place the trout on a buttered baking-sheet, and
about half an hour before dinner, first sprinkle them over with a
little melted fresh butter, and then put them in the oven to be baked
of a fine light brown color. Dish them up and sauce round with
the following ragout:—Reduce half a bottle of dry Champagne or
Sauterue, with some essence of mushrooms, down to one-fourth part,
then add a ladleful of Allemande sauce, incorporate with it a pat of
anchovy butter, a little lobster-coral, nutmeg, cayenne, and lemon-
jnice; sauce the trout round, and garnish with a border of small
fillets of soles that have been contises, one half with truffles, and the
remainder with tongue, and then turned round in the shape of half-
moons, and simmered in a little butter, salt, and lemon-juice. In
the inner circle, place small groups of prawns' tails tossed in lobster-
coral and glaze, soft roes of mackerel tossed in a spoonful of sauce,
colored with some green Raxrigotte, and between the trout a row of
large crayfish trimmed and glazed. Send up some of the sauce in
a boat. ,
426. TROUT AU GRATIN.
Parroil the trout sufficiently to remove the skin, and, when
trimmed, place them on a buttered sauta-pan; season with pepper
and salt, sprinkle over them a good spoonful of chopped parsley,
three times that quantity of chopped mushrooms, and two chopped
sualots; add a small ladleful of finished brown sauce, and two or


152 DRESSED FISH IN GENERAL.
three glasses of Cherry.- Half an hour more or less before sending to
table, according to the size of the fish, put the trout thus prepared
into the oven to bake, taking care to baste it every five minutes; when
done, put the trout out on a dish, reduce the sauce, if necessary, incor-
porate in it a pat of anchovy butter, add the juice of half a lemon, and
pour the sauce over the trout; then shake some baked bread-crumbs
bruised fine, over the whole, replace the fish in the oven for five
minutes, and then send them to table after placing round them a
border of lobster croquelles.
427. tbout l'aubobe.
Boil and trim one or more trout, mask them over with some
reduced Alle.ma.nde sauce, put them on a silver dish, and then place a
wire sieve over the trout; rub the yelks of six or more eggs boiled
hard through the sieve with a wooden spoon, on the fish, taking care
that the curling shreds which fall through the sieve cover the surface
of the trout equally. About half an hour before dinner, put the trout
in the oven to get colored of a fine amber hue; pour round them some
Aurora sauce (No. 41), and garnish them with a border of musclea
fried in batter.
428. TBOUT IN OASES, WITH FINE HEBB3.
Procure as many small trout as may suffice for a dish, clean, par-
boil, trim, and place them each in a separate paper case previously
oiled, and then baked for five minutes, for the purpose of hardening
the paper to enable it to contain the sauce; add to each trout a
moderate quantity of fine herbs' sauce (No. 14); put them in the oven
twenty minutes before dinner-time to bake, and when doue, dish them
up, and send to table with some of the sauce in a boat.
429. TBOUT A LA BOYALE.
Clean and draw a fine trout, stuff it with some quenelle force-
meat of whitings, stew it with a bottle of Chablis wine, a few mush-
rooms, parsley, green onions, thyme, and a bay-leaf, pepper-corns,
and a blade of mace: when done, remove the skin, glaze, and put it
on its dish in the hot closet till required for dishing up. Then
strain the liquor in which the trout has been stewed, reduce it to
half glaze, add to it some Supreme sance, work in a pat of anchovy
butter, a little cayenne pepper, and lemon-juice, and then pour the
sauce inro a stewpan containing some small quenelles of whiting,
button-mushrooms, and prawns' tails. Allow the whole to boil to-
gether for a few minutes, sauce the trout, and garnish them round
with a border of croustades of quenelle of whiliug, poached, bread-
crumbed, and fried; the interior should be removed and filled with
soft roes of mackerel tossed in a little of the sauce
430. BBOILED TBOUT, WITH DUTCH SAUCE.
Split a trout at the back, oil it over, season with pepper and salt;
just before dinner-time, broil it, and send it to table with some Dutch
sauce in a boat separately.
In addition to the different methods given here for dressing trout,
this kind of fish may be prepared in every variety of form and style in
which salmon is sent to table.


153
STURGEON,
coMPRisnta
Sturgeon d la Beaufort. Sturgeon d la Bourguignotle.
„ d la Cardinal. „ d I'ludiinne.
,, 6) la Oinoite. „ au gratin with fine herbf.
„ d la Dauphine. „ d hi Rw>»e.
„ d la Pfrigord. „ d VAnglaite.
431. STURGEON A LA BEAUFORT.
Choose a small sturgeon, draw, skin, and trass it in the shape of
the leter S; braize it in a mirepoix moistened with sherry, or with
common broth, and a little brandy. When the fish is done, drain it
and put it in the larder to cool; then mask it all 'over with a coating
of quenelle force-meat of whitings; observing that the form of the
head should be restored by covering that part of the sturgeon with
some of the force-meat mixed with some lobster-coral. Form the
eyea, mouth, and gills, with some black truffles cut into shapes for
the purpose. Place some fillets of soles previously contises with
truffles, crosswise along the back of the sturgeon, allowing the space
of an inch to intervene between each fillet of sole, which spaces are
to be filled up by the insertion of crayfish tails, trimmed and secured
by being stnck into the force-meat in close rows; then cover the fish
with very thin layers of fat bacon, place it on a drainer, and put it in
the braizer with a little of the mirepoix in which it has been braized.
About an hour before dinner-time, put it in the oven or on a slow
fire, with live embers upon the lid, and after the fish has simmered
gently, without boiling, during the time allotted, take it out of the
braize upon the drainer, and after divesting it of the layers of bacon,
slide it off the drainer on to its dish; sauce it round with a rich
MaUlotle sauce made with Sauterne wine, add also some of the liquor
in which the sturgeon has been braized; garnish round with alternate
groups of the soft roes of mackerel (cut in halves, blanched, and fried
in batter) and some dessert-spoon quenelles of lobster.
432. STUBGEON A LA CARDINAL.
Procure a prime cut of sturgeon weighing about 12 lbs.; remove
its skin in the following manner:—Place the piece of sturgeon on
the kitchen table, lengthwise before you, so as to have a command
on either side; then take a long thin-bladed knife, insert its point
immediately between the flesh and skin, run the knife right up,
keeping close to the back fin, and minding that the edge of the knife
be kept to the left; press, with the pahn of the left hand, on the skin
of the fish, drawing the knife to and fro, so as to sever the skin from
the flesh; and after effecting this on one side, repeat it on the other.
Replace the skin over the sturgeon, and fasten it on with a string, in
order to preserve the color of the fish; at the same time taking care
to give shape and appearance to the sturgeon. Then put it into a
fish-kettle or braizing-pan on the drainer belonging to it, moisten
with a good wine mirepoix, and set it to braize with fire under and
over. If the quality of the sturgeon be good, about four hours' gentle


154
DRESSED FISH IN GENERAL.
boiling will suffice to braize it; the fish must be well basted with
its liquor every now and then. When the sturgeon is done, take it up,
remove the skin, drain, and afterward mask it with some stiff glaze,
in which has beeu mixed some pounded lobster-coral in sufficient
quantity to give the sturgeon a bright scarlet color; form on its
centre a palm or star, with some conlises fillets of soles. The orna-
mental skewers that appear in the woodcut, must, if used—which is
not strictly essential—all be garnished with a large truffle, crayfish,
mushroom, quenelle, and truffle. Pour some Cardinal sauce (No. 48)
round it, garnish with a border of tails of very small lobsters, and
alternate groups of small quenelles of whiting, button-mushrooms, and
truffles. * •

433. STURGEON A LA GENOISE.
Prepare the sturgeon as in either of the foregoing instances, and
after having glazed and dished it up, pour some Oenoise sauce No.
30) round it; garnish with a border of .large crayfish, and serve.
434. STURGEON A LA DAUPHINE.
Pare off the whole of the skin of a prime cut of sturgeon, weigh-
ing about 8 lbs.; garnish the inside to its full extent with some
quenelle force-meat of whiting, mixed with some, chopped and sim-
mered fine herbs; wrap the sturgeon in thin layers of bacon—
secured on with string; set the sturgeon to braize in some wine
mirepoix; when done, drain it and put it to cool in the larder, after
which cover it well over—first divesting it of the bacon, &c,—with a
coating of stiffly-reduced Allemande sauce, and when the sauce has
cooled upon the fish, bread-crumb it in the usual manner, drop a
little clarified butter over it through a straining-spoon,*put it on a
drainer into a deep baking-dish, and set it in the oven to be baked
of a light color. Then place it on a dish, sauce with Sturgeon
sauce (No. 56), garnish with an cater row of quenelles of gurnets,


STURGEON. 155
mixed with some chopped and blanched parsley, and garnish the inner
circle with alternate groups of thin scollops of lobster (tossed in a
little lobster-coral butter, to render them of a bright Scarlet color),
and some button mushrooms and scollops of gurnets tossed in a spoon-
ful of Bechamel sauce. Stick on four ornamental Alelets, or silver
skewers, garnished each with a large truffle, quenelle, crayfish, and
mushroom.
435, STURGEON A LA PERIGORD.
Prepare the sturgeon as in the preceding case, but instead of bread-
crumbing it, glaze and dish it up; sauce it with a good Perigueux
sauce (No. 23), in which has been mixed some of its own liquor boiled
down to glaze, a pat of anchovy butter, and a little lemon-juice; gar
nish with a border of truffle crSustades made as follows:—
Choose a dozen or eighteen large truffles of equal size, boil them in
some wine mirepoix, cut a piece from the top, of the thickness of a
penny piece, scoop out the inside of the truffles, anient the produce
into thin scollops, which after mixing with a little one sauce, replace
in the truffles; cover them with some small fillets of soles contises with
some red tongue, and turned round in the shapes and size of half-a-
crown piece, and simmered in a little butter. Send up some of the
sauce to table in a boat.
436. STURGEON A LA ROURGUIGNOTTE.
Stuff and braize the sturgeon according to the foregoing directions,
trim, glaze, and dish it up; then pour so'rikBourguignotte sauce (No.
28) round it, garnish with groups of mushrooms, glazed button-onions,
small quenelles, and crayfish tails.
Send some of the sauce to table in a boat
.
437. STURGEON A L'lNDIENNE.
Braize the sturgeon in some wine mirepoix, take about a pint of
the liquor, reduce and mix it in some Indian curry sauce (No. 47) pre-
pared for the purpose, add a pat of anchovy butter, and some lemon-
juice, sauce the sturgeon, and garnish it -round with a border of rice
crbustade8, filled with curried prawns or shrimps; ornament it with
four Ateletn—each garnished with a large crayfish, a contise fillet of
sole, and a fine smelt, fried : the smelt here alluded to must be trussed
previously to its being fried, and the point of a skewer run through its
tail and eyes, and again through the centre of the body, also through
the fillet of sole, and the large crayfish. Send up, as usual in such
cases, some of the sauce in a boat.
438. STURGEON AU GRATIN, WITH FINE HERBS.
This method of dressing sturgeon should be resorted to only when
it happens that a sufficient remuant is left from the previous day's
dinner. In such a case, cut the sturgeon into neatly-trimmed scol-
lops, and toss these in some reduced Allemande sauce, incorporated
with some of the essence of the sturgeon—previously boiled down
to glaze; add some fine herbs, lemon-juice, a little grated nutmeg,
and half a pat of anchovy butter; mix the whole well together; put
the scollops on a silver disn, piled up in the form of a dome; cover
them with some fried bread-crumbs, mixed with one-third part of


156
DRESSED FISH IN GENERAL.
grated fresh Parmesan cheese. About twenty minutes before dinner-
time, place the dish in the oven to gratinate the scollops: pass the red-
hot salamander over them, to melt the cheese; ponr round some of the
sauce reserved for the purpose; garnish with some croquettes of stur-
geon, lobster, or potatoes, and send to table.
439. STURGEON A LA RUSSE.
Braize the sturgeon as usual, either in some wine mirepoix, or
ruerely in vinegar and water, when economy is an object. When
the sturgeon is done, take off the skin, trim, and mask it with some
stiff glaze mixed with some pounded lobster-coral; ornament it on
the centre with some small fillets of gurnets contisSs with green
gherkins,—previously placed in a buttered sauta-pan, in the shape of
half-moons, and simmered in a little butter; at each end place a row
of turned olives; pour round it some rich Genoise sauce (No. 30)—
finished with a good piece of lobster butter, cayenne, and lemon-juice,
a spoonful of chopped and blanched parsley, two spoonsful of capers,
some turned olhtes, two dozen crayfish tails, and about the same
quantity of small quenelles of anchovies. Garnish round the inner edge
of the dish with some smelts trussed in the same way as whitings, and
fried.
440. STURGEON A L'ANGLAISE.
Trim and skin a fine piece of sturgeon—or a small whole fish;
line the inside with some well-seasoned ordinary veal-stuffing; re-
place the skin, and secure* it with string; put the sturgeon on a
drainer in the fish-kettle; garnish with carrot, onion, parsley, thyme,
and bay-leaf, mace, peppercorns, and six cloves, a handful of trim-
mings of mushro'oms, and a little salt; moisten wilh a bottle of
port wine; cover with a well-buttered paper, and set it on the fire to
boil; then place it on a slow fire to stew gently till it is done. Next
drain, trim, and glaze it; place it on a dish, and put it in the hot
closet until diuner-time. Meanwhile, take some of the liquor ia
which the sturgeon has been stewed, with three glasses of good Port
wine, and boil the whole down to half-glaze, and add it to some
finished Espagnole, or brown sauce; work in a pat of anchovy butter,
and two pats of fresh butter, a little cayenne, grated nutmeg, and
lemon-juice; pour the sauce into a stewpan containing some button-
mushrooms, scollops of lobster, and small quenelle of whiting, colored
with gome very fine chopped and blanched parsley; allow the
whole to boil up for a minute on the stove; sauce the sturgeon over
with this ragout; garnish it round with a border of Targe crayfish, and
serve.
Sturgeon, in addition to the preceding modes of preparation, may lie
dressed similarly to salmon, in all its varieties.


157
COD FISH,
COMPRISING
Cod, and Oyster Sauce. Crimped slices of Cod d la HnUandait.
l)o. stuffed and baked. „ „ „ d la Colbert,
Do. d la orimt au gratin. „ „ „ ^n Matelotie Jfor*
Crimped slices of Cod, and Oyster Sauce. mantle.
„ „ „ <1 la Seville. Scollops of Cod d la Bfchamel.
Fillets of Cod d rindiinne. Slices of crimped Cod <J la Mattre aVBSIel.
Baked Cod's head.
441. COD, AND OYSTER SAUCE.
Boil the cod, whether it be crimped or plain, in boiling spring
water, into which throw a handful of salt; as soon as the fish is done,
drain it instantly, and place it on a dish, with a clean wet napkin ove*r
it, to keep it moist: jnst before dinner, take off the napkin, and send
the codi to> table with a sance-boat full of white Oyster sance (No. 50).
Cod-fish is rarely dressed whole, as, in addition to its unwieldy size,
the length of time required to boil so large a fish deprives it materially
of its peculiar attraction, which is never so effectually obtained as
when the fish is crimped, and cut into slices, previously to its being
boiled.
442. COD STUFFED AND BAKED.
Clean, trim, and stuff a cod with some well-seasoned veal-stuffing;
secure this by sewing up the belly; then truss the fish in the shape of
the letter S; make several deep incisions on either side, and place it in
a deep baking dish previously well spread with fresh butter; season
with chopped parsley and mushrooms, pepper and salt; moisten with
half a bottle of Sherry, and the liquor of two dozen oysters; then set
the fish in the oven to bake; and every ten minutes, or oftener, baste
it with its own liquor; when it is nearly done, sprinkle it over with
some fine raspings of bread, and again put it in the oven for ten
minutes longer. When the cod is baked, draw the strings out of it;
place it on its dish, then pour two glasses of Sherry into the dish in
which the cod has been baked, and also a little consommi—to detach
the glaze from round the pan; pass the whole through a tammy into a
stewpan; add some brown sauce; reduce the whole to a proper con-
sistency; work in a pat of anchovy butter, a little cayenne, and lemon-
juice, beard the oysters, and add them to the sauce; pour it round the
cod, and send to table. •
443. COD A LA CRIME ATT GRATIN.
Is prepared in a similar manner to tubot d la crime au gratin (for
which see No. 401).
444. CRIMPED SLICES OF COD AND OYSTER SAUCE.
Put crimped slices of cod in boiling spring water containing a
handful of salt, as before directed; as soon as it boils up again, set
the fish-kettle by the side of the stove to continue boiling for about
a quarter of an hour; when done, drain and dish up the fish with


158 DRESSED FISH IN GENERAL.
some pieces of liver and charllon*,—which should be boiled apart
from the fish, so that the oil contained in the liver may not spoil the
color or flavor of the cod. Send up to table with a boat of Oyster
sauce (No. 50).
445. SLICES OF COD A LA SEVILLE.
Wash and dry half a pound of Carolina rice; fry it in salad-oil,
drain it on a sieve, and afterward put it into a large fricandeau pan;
then cut some pieces of crimped cod, about four inches square, and fry
them of a fine color in some salad-oil, after which drain and place them
on the rice. Next cut a Spanish onion into very thin slices, and fry
these in some of the oil used for the fish; drain off the oil and add six
large ripe tomatas, from which the seeds have been squeezed; simmer
the tomatas and the onions together on the fire for five minutes, and
pour the whole on the fish and rice; season with a little cayenne, salt,
and lemon-juice; moisten with a pint of good broth; place a buttered
paper on the top, cover with the lid of the pan, and put the whole to
bake in the oven. In about half an hour, the fish and rice will be done,
when take the pieces of cod out of the rice, place them on an earthen
dish, and with a wooden spoon stir the rice over the fire, in order to
mix it with the seasoning; after which put the rice on a silver dish, and
place the pieces of cod-fish on it; sauce it round with some Muscle
sauce (No. 52), and send to table. This is a favorite dish in Spain.
446. COD A l'indienne.
Trim some pieces of cod in the shape of fillets; keep them rather
thick; place them neatly in a deep sauta-pan, previously buttered;
then moisten them with some Indian Curry sauce (No. 47) prepared
for the purpose; cover with a stewpan-lid, and set the fillets on a sharp
fire to simmer; about twenty minutes will suffice to stew them; then
dish up the fillets—the one overlaying the other—in the form of a
circle; pass the sauce through a tammy, pour it over them, and send
to table.
447.. CRIMPED SLICES OF COD A LA HOLLANDAISE.
In order to produce this fish in perfection, it is advisable to bespeak
some very thin slices of crimped cod, not more than half an inch thick,
of the fishmonger, a day or two beforehand. About an hour or two
before dinner, sprinkle the slices of cod with salt; and ten minutes
before sending to table, boil them quickly; as soon as done, dish them
up, and send them to be eaten immediately, with some delicately-pre-
pared Dutch sauce (No. 42).
This method of preparing crimped fish is a favorite one in Holland;
where, however, plain butter is taken with it, prepared as follows:—
Put the butter in a small stewpan, with a little salt, pepper, nutmeg,
and lemon-juice; then keep stirring it by a slow fire till the butter is
sufficiently melted, taking care that it does not become oily.
448. CRIMPED SLICES OF COD A LA COLBERT.
Procure some very thin slices of crimped cod; bread-crumb and
* A soft whitish substance in curling folds found inside ood-flsh.


COD FISH. 159
fry them ; dish them up with some cold Maitre oVHotel butter (No. 44)
under them; then sauce them round with an essence prepared for the
purpose, as follows:
Put the trimmings of the fish with a sole, or two or three flounders,
cut into pieces, into a small stewpan, with carrot, parsley roots, thyme,
mace, and peppercorns; moisten with two glasses of white wine, and
allow the whole to boil down to half; add a small ladleful of good
consomme; set the essence to boil gently for half an hour; strain and
reduce it down one-third, to which add a spoonful of Bechamel or
Allemande sauce, and use it as directed above.
449. CRIMPED SLICES OF COD, IN MATELOTTE NORMANDE.
Place some thin slices of cod on a silver dish, previously spread
with butter; season them with a little pepper and salt, and sprinkle
some chopped parsley over them; moisten with two glasses of French
white wiue and some oyster liquor; cover with a buttered paper, and
half an hour before dinner put them in the oven to bake, taking care
to baste them occasionally. When the fish is done, pour the liquor
there may be in the dish into a ragout prepared for the purpose, in the
usual manner (No. 194), and wipe the edges of the dish with a wet
napkin ; sauce the slices of cod over with the ragout, and garnish round
with a border of fried smelts and large crayfish; place some glazed
oval croutons round the inner circle, and send to table.
450. SCOLLOPS OF COD A LA BECHAMEL.
Cut and trim some crimped cod into neat scollops; simmer them
in a sauta-pan with a little fresh butter and salt; when done, drain
them on a napkin, and afterward toss them gently in a stewpan, with
some good cream Bichamel sauce (No. 6); dish them up, pyramidally,
in the entree dish, and garnish round with a border of potato cro-
quettes.
To save time, or indeed as a variety, these scollops may also be pre-
pared in the following manner:
Boil the slices, or piece of cod, drain it, and then break it gently into
large flakes, which toss in some Bechamel sauce; dish up and garnish
as directed above. ,
451. SLICES OF CRIMPED COD A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL.
Steep some thin slices of crimped cod in a little oil, pepper, and
salt; broil them on a gridiron rubbed with whiting, and when done,
glaze them over very lightly; dish them up, and sauce them under and
round with a well-seasoned Maitre d'Edtel sauce (No. 43), and send to
table.
452. cod's head raked.
Fill the hollow of the gills with some veal stuffing; pu^ the head
into a deep baking dish—season with pepper and salt, a little chopped
sbalot, and a spoonful of chopped parsley; moisten with two glasses
of Sherry and a little mushroom catsup; put two pats of butter on
the fish, and place it in the oven to bake, remembering that it must be
frequently basted with its liquor, adding, if necessary, a little con-
tommi for the purpose. After the cod's head has been in the oven
ten minutes, sprinkle it over with some bruised raspings of bread,


DRESSED FISH IN GENERAL.
and when its baking is completed, place it on its dish; then add a
spoonful of brown sauce and half a glass of wine to the liquor in
which the head has been baked, and allow the whole to boil down to
the consistency of sauce; add a pat of butter, a little essence of ancho-
vies, and lemon-juice; work the whole together, ponr the sauce round
the cod's head, and send to table
HADDOCKS AND COD'S SOUNDS,
, COMPRISING
Haddocks d la Royah. Fillet: of Haddocks d la Marfckale.
,, stuffed and baked. „ „ d I'ftaKinne.
„ d la BelU-vue. Cod's sounds and Egg sauoe.
,, broiled, with Dutch sauce* „ d la Ravigotte,
„ broiled, with Egg sauce. „ ,, d la Oatconnt.
Fillets of Haddocks d la Ruyale. „ „ d la RoyaU.
»
453. HADDOCKS A LA ROYALB.
Bone and stuff two haddocks with some quenelle force-meat of
whiting; place them head to tpil on a baking-sheet; then season them
with a little pepper and salt, and bake them. After allowing the
haddocks to cool, cover them with a thin layer of quenelle force-meat
of whitings, and .place thereon some contiste fillets of soles, in a slant-
ing direction; mask the heads with a little of the force-meat, mixed
with some pounded lobster-coral, and form the eyes and month with
truffles; cover the haddocks with very thin layers of bacon, placing
over all a buttered paper. About three-quarters of an hour before
dinner, put the haddocks in the oven to finish baking. Just before
serving, take off the paper, and remove the layers of bacon, and with
a clean napkin absorb all the grease and moisture there may be upon
them; then carefully remove the haddocks on to their dish, sauce them
round with some Parisian sauce (No. 40), and garnish them with some
quenelles of lobster, with a large scollop of truffle intervening between
each quenelle, and send to table.
464. HADDOCKS, STUFFED AND BAKED,
Are prepared in the same manner as cods' heads baked, previously
described.
Haddocks, after being baked, may also be served with Poivrade,
Piquante, Tomata, Italian, Oyster, Muscle, or caper sauces.
455. HADDOCKS A LA BELLE-VUE.
Skin two haddocks; truss them as you would whitings for frying,
and put them into a baking dish; cover them with a layer of
quenelle force-meat of whitings, covered with lobster-coral; then
place across their backs some fillets of soles conlises with green
gherkins, taking care to leave the space of an inch between each
fillet, so as to insert some small truffles cut in the shape of olives;
cover them with thin layers of fat bacon, and Over all place a buttered


162 DRESSED FISH IN GENERAL.
By varying the sauce, fillets of haddocks prepared in the above
manner, are named according to the sauce employed: as for instance,
d la Ravigotte, d la MaUre d'Hbtel, d la Hollandaise, &c.
461. COD'S SOUNDS, AND EGG SAUCE.
Preparatory to boiling cod's sounds, it is quite necessary that
they should be soaked in milk and water for at least six hours, and
then washed and put to boil in a stewpan containing fresh milk and
water, then continue gently boiling till they are done; about an hour
will suffice for this. When done, drain them on a napkin, cut them
into pieces about an inch and a half square, and put them into a
stewpan with a sufficient quantity of egg sauce (No. 84); toss the
whole together over the fire, pile them upon a dish in a pyramidal
form, garnish them round with neatly-cut boiled parsnips, and send
to table.
462. cod's sounds, a la ravigotte.
Prepare and cut the sounds into pieces, as directed in the preceding
article; toss them in some Ravigotte sauce (No. 20), dish them up,
garnish round with a border of potato croquettes, and send to table.
463. cod's sounds, a la gasconne.
Prepare the sounds as usual, step them in oil, vinegar, shalot,
and parsley, season with a little minionette pepper; just before
dinner, fry the sounds in butter, dish them up in the form of a
wreath, pour under them some Gasconne sauce (No. 68), and send
to table.
464 cod's sounds, a la royale.
The sounds should be prepared and fried as in the preceding case;
and afterward dished up similarly, with white Ravigotte sauce (No. 29)
poured under them, and sent to table.
Cod's sounds may also be dressed d la Poulette, d V Indienne, d la
Bichamel, d la Mailre d'Hbtel, in the same manner, of course substi-
tuting any of the above sauces for the Ravigotte.
DRESSED SOLES, GURNETS, AND MACKEREL,
COMPRISING
Gurnets staffed and baked.
„ d la Dauphin*.
„ d la Gfnoitt.
Mackerel boiled.
„ broiled, d la ifatlre cTHilel.
„ broiled with nut-brown batter.
Fillets of Hackorel, d la Maitrt <TH6ut
465. FRIED SOLES WITH SHRIMP SAUCE.
Moderate-sized soles are preferable for frying, as when large,
from their size and thickness, they must necessarily remain a con-
soles fried, with Shrimp saae
„ boiled.
,, d la Colbert.
,, au gratin.
,, with fine herbs.
„ d la Pariibine.
d la MarichaU.
,, in Matelotte Nomande.
„ Ala Platy.


SOLES, GURNETS, AND MACKEREL. 163
siclerable time in the frying-fat, and will thereby contract a strong
flavor, as well as imbibe a greater portion of the fat; they are also less
likely to appear crisp, so essential a requisite in all fried fish. Clean
the soles thoroughly, pull off the brown skin, cut off the head trans-
versely, and with a pair of large scissors trim away the fins close up to
the fillets; then wash and wipe the soles dry, and roll them in a little
flour; dip them first into some beaten egg, and then in fine bread-
crumbs, and place the fish on a dish in a cool place until within twenty
minntes of dinner-time; then fry them in some hot lard; when done,
drain them on a napkin, and dish them up with some fried parsley, and
serve with a sauce-boat full of shrimp, anchovy, Dutch, or lobster
nuce.
466. BOILED SOLES.
For boiling, crimped soils are preferable; but when these are not to
be obtained, choose large and thick fish—such, for instance, as Torbay
soles. Trim the soles, and rub them over with lemon-juice; sprinkle
over some salt, and put them on in boiling water; when done, dish
them up, and send to table with a sauce-boat filled with Dutch, Lobster,
Shrimp, Anchovy, or French Caper sauce.
467. SOLES, A LA COLBERT.
Clean and trim the soles, wash and wipe them dry with a clean
cloth; then flour them over and fry them, after which cut them open at
the back, and carefully take out the backbone; fill the inside with some
cold Maitre oVHbtel butter (No. 44); turn the soles on their backs in a
dish, pour round them an essence of fish, or of anchovies (No. 176),
aud serve them quite hot.
468. SOLES, ATJ GRATIN.
Spread some fresh butter on a silver dish, and place the soles, head
and tail, on it; season with pepper and salt, sprinkle some chopped
parsley over them, and moisten with two glasses of white wine; half an
hour before dinner, put them in the oven to bake; when they have been
in twenty minutes tako them out; and, after saucing them all over with
some brown Italian sauce (No. 12), shake some fine raspings of bread
over the whole, and put the soles back in the oven to gralinate for a
few minutes; just before sending to table pass the red-hot salamander
over them, and serve.
469. SOLES WITH FINE-HERBS.
Trim the soles close up to the fillets; put them on a buttered sauta-
pan; sprinkle over them some chopped mushrooms, parsley, and one
shalot; season with pepper and salt, and a little nutmeg, and moisten
with two glasses of white wine; cover them with a buttered paper, and
set them in the oven to bake. When done, drain their liquor
into a small stewpan containing some Allemande sauce; add a spoon-
ful of chopped and blanched parsley, a pat of fresh butter, and lemon-
juice; work the whole well together on the fire; wipe the edges of the
dish with a clean napkin dipped in hot water, and sauce the soles
over; place round them a border of glazed thin croutons, aud send
them to table.


164
DRESSED PISH IN GENERAL.
470. SOLES, A LA PARISIENNE.
Tbim a pair of fine large soles, slit them down the back, and take
the bone out; line the soles with some quenelle force-meat of whitings
mixed with some chopped fine-herbs; put tbem on a buttered sauta-
pan, season with pepper and salt, moisten with two glasses of white
wine, cover with a buttered paper, and put them in the oven to bake.
When done, put them in press between two earthen dishes, and set
tbem in the larder to cool. In the mean time, prepare some stiffly-
reduced Allemande sauce, with which, after ueatly trimming the soles,
cover them all over ; and when the sauce, by getting cold, has set firmly
upon them, cover them with egg and bread-crumbs; fry them of a fine
light color, dish them up, and garnish with a Parisian rat/out (No. 203),
place round them a border of large crayfish and glazed crbutons, and
send to table.
471. SOLES, A LA J1ARECHALE.
Bone a pair of soles, line them with quenelle force-meat of whiting,
bread-crumb, with Allemande sauce, and then fry the fish; drain them
on a napkin, dish them up, and sauce them round with some Venetian
sauce (No. 26), and serve.
472. MATELOTTE NOSMANDE OF SOLES.
Bone two fine soles; line them with quenelle force-meat of whitings
mixed with some chopped fine-herbs; place them on a buttered sauta-
pan, season with pepper and salt, moisten with half a bottle of French
white wine, some oyster liquor, and w.hite essence of mushrooms; put
them in the oven to bake, and when done, remove the soles carefully on,
to their dish. Reduce the liquor, incorporate it in a rich Matelotie
Normande ragout (No. 194), with which sauce the soles all over,
and garnish round with a border of crayfish, and some oval crdutons,
made with the crusts of French rolls fried in butter, and glazed, then
serve.
473. HATELOTTE OP SOLES, A LA PLESSY.
Bone, stuff, and bake a pair of large soles, as described in the pre-
ceding directions, and when done, put them in press between two-
earthenware dishes ; as soon as they have cooled, mask them over with
some fish quenelle force-meat, colored with lobster coral; smooth them
over with the blade of a large knife, dipped in hot water; then place
the soles carefully on a silver dish buttered for the purpose, and after
ornamenting the centre of each sole with a bold decoration,—composed
of truffles,—cover thorn with some very thin layers of fat bacon:
moisten with a. glass of French white wine, and put them in the oven
for about a quarter of an hour, in which time they will be done. Re-
move the bacon, glaze them slightly, and garnish them round with a
Parisian sauce (No. 40), with the addition of some fine white muscles;
place round the Matelotte a border of fried smelts, previously boned
and stuffed with force-meat, and serve.
474. GURNETS STUFFED AND BAKKD.
Cut off the fins and head from two or more gurnets, staff them
with veal stuffing, sew them up and score them with a sharp knife
on both sides; then place the gurnets in a buttered baking-dish,
season them with pepper and salt, some chopped parsley, and two pats


SOLES, GURNETS, AND MACKEREL. 165
of butter; moisten with two glasses of Sherry, some essence of mush-
rooms, and a tittle consomme, and pat them in the oven to bake,—
taking care to baste them every five minutes until they are done.
Then remove the garnets on to their dish, and detach the glaze from
the bottom and sides of the dish in which they have been baked, with
a glass of Sherry; reduce the essence to a demi-glaze, and incorpo-
rate it into one of the following sauces, with a pat of butter and a
little esseace of anchovies; pour the sauce over the gurnets and send
to table. Either Piquante, lialienne, Gasconne, Provengale, Poi-
vrade, Cfenoise, or Tomata sauce, will suit this fish, when prepared in
the above manner.
475. GURNETS, A LA DAUPHINE.
Cut off the heads and fins from two gurnets, boil them in water with
a little salt and vinegar; when done, drain and skin them, then cover
them with some stiffly-reduced Allemande sauce (No. 7), and when this
has cooled upon them, egg them over and cover with bread-crumbs, and
place them on a buttered baking-sheet; half an hour before dinner put
them in the oven to bake, and as soon as they have acquired a fine
color, dish them up, and garnish round with some Ravigotte sauce,
containing some crayfish tails, and send to table.
476. GURNETS, A LA GENOISE.
Boil or bake one or more gurnets in some mirepoix (No. 236);
drain, skim, glaze, and place them on their dish, and sauce them with
Qenoise sauce (No. 30); garnish round with large crayfish, or Que-
nelles of whiting or gurnet.
Gurnets, either boiled or baked, may be sent to table with any kind
of fish sauce; but as they do not possess any decided flavor of their
own, sharp or Piquante 6ance should be used in preference.
Note.—Fillets of gurnets may be dressed in every variety of form,
and served with any kind of sauce, similar to soles.
477. BOILED MACKEREL.
Boil the mackerel in salt and water, dish it up, and send to table,
either with fennel, parsley, or gooseberry sauce.
478. BROILED MACKEREL, A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL.
Split the mackerel down the back, season with pepper and salt, and
oil it over; then place it on a gridiron, over a moderate fire; when the
mackerel is done on one side, tarn it over on the other; and as soon
as it is done through, take it up on a dish and put some cold Maitre
d'Hdtel butter (No.44) inside it, aud pour a well-finished Mailre d'Hoiel
sauce (No. 43) round it, and send to table.
479. BROILED MACKEREL, WITH NUT-BROWN BUTTER.
Broil the mackerel as directed in the last article, dish it up, garnish
it round with fried parsley, and pour over It some nut-brown butter
(No. 93).
480. FILLETS OF MACKEREL, A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL.
Fillet the mackerel thus:
Place the fish on the table with its back toward you, then ran the
knife ia just below the gills, tarn the edge of the blade under, press


166
DRESSED FISH IN GENERAL.
with the fingers of the left hand full on the upper end of the fillet,
and bearing with the blade of the knife upon the side of the backbone,
draw the knife gently down to the tail, and turn the mackerel over and
take the fillet off the other side: when this is done, cut each fillet into
two, trim the ends neatly, and place them side by side on a buttered
sauta-pan, season with pepper and salt and chopped parsley, squeeze
the juice of half a lemon over them, and then pour a little oiled butter
upon each, and cover with a round of buttered paper. About twenty
minutes before dinner, either put them in the oven or on a stove-fire
to simmer, and when done, drain the fillets on a napkin, dish them
up in the form of a wreath, the fillets resting upon each other;
sauce them over with some Mailre d'Hotel sauce (No. 43), and send
to table.
The soft roes, if any, in the mackerel, should be parboiled in boiling
water containing a little vinegar and salt; then drain them on a nap-
kin, and place them in the Centre of the fillets when dished up.
Fillets of mackerel, prepared as described in the first part of the
above directions, may be sent to table with either of the following
sauces: Vertpre, Rauigotte, Italidnne, or Oenoise.
DRESSED MULLETS, Ac,
COXPBI81N0
Fillets of Whiting, d la Mattrt cTHSteL
„ „ d la Horly.
„ • „ d la MarSchaU.
„ „ d la ftoyale.
WhitiDgs boiled,
fried.
broiled, Ac.
481. MULLETS IN CASES, WITH FINE-HERBS.
Scale and trim the mullets, place them in a sauta-pan spread with
fresh butter for the purpose; season with a little pepper and salt,
cover them with some fine-herbs sauce (No. 14), moisten with two
glasses of Sherry or white wiue. About half an hour before dinner
(the exact time depending on the size of the fish), put the mullets in
the oven to bake; occasionally basting them with their own liquor.
When done, put each of them, separately, in an oblong paper case sat-
urated with oil, and then lightly colored in the oven; add a glass of
wine to the sauce remaining in the sauta-pan, shake it about to detach
the glaze from the sides, and then mix the whole with the remainder
of the fine-herbs sance reserved for the purpose ; reduce the whole, mix
iura little essence of anchovy, and the juice of half a lemon; add a
spoonful of chopped and blanched parsley, sauce the mullets over in
their cases, dish them up, and send to table.
Mullets may be dressed with fine-herbs, also, in the following man-
ner: Trim and place the mullets on a buttered sauta-pan, season with
pepper and salt, strew over them chopped mushrooms, shalot, and
parsley; moisten with two glasses of Sherry and a large spoonful of
Mullets in cases, with One-herbs.
„ d I'ltaliinne.
„ d la Oinoite.
„ au ragout Cardinal.
„ d la Chesterfield.
Gray Mallets, Graylings, Ac


MULLETS. 167
brown sauce; bake and finish them exactly in the same manner as pre-
viously directed.
482. MULLETS A L'ITALIENNE.
When the mullets are trimmed, put them in a buttered santa-pan,
season with pepper and salt, and moisten with three glasses of French
white wine, and some essence of mushrooms; bake the fish, taking
care to baste them frequently while in the oven; when done, dish
them up, and mask them over with some glaze mixed with some
finely-bruised lobster-coral; sauce them round with some Italian sauce
(No. 12), incorporated with the liquor in which the mullets have been
baked, after it has been reduced, also a little essence of anchovy, butter
and lemon-juice, and send to table.
483. MULLETS, A LA GENOISE.
Prepare the mullets in a sauta-pan, as before-mentioned, moisten
with two glasses of claret, and some essence of mushrooms; when the
mullets are baked, glaze them with some lobster-colored glaze, and
dish them up. Then reduce the liquor in which the mullets were
baked, and incorporate it with some G&noise sauce (No. 30), together
with a pat of anchovy butter, and some lemon-juice; sauce the mullets
round, garnish with a border of large crayfish and quenelles of
whiting, and seud to table.
484. MULLETS, AU RAGOUT CARDINAL.
Prepare the mullets as a Vltalienne, dish them up after being
glazed of a fine scarlet hue; garnish them round with a rich cardinal
ragout (No. 200); finish by placing a border of large crayfish and
decorated quenelles of whiting round them, and send to table.
485. MULLETS, A LA CHESTERFIELD.
When the mullets are trimmed, put them into a buttered sauta-pan
with half a bottle of dry Champagne, some essence of mushrooms and
a little pepper and salt; bake them in the oven, taking care to baste
them frequently; when done, glaze and dish them up, reduce their
liquor, and add to it some bisque of crayfish sauce, previously prepared
as follows:—
Thoroughly wash and draw the gall from two dozen crayfish, put
them into a stewpan with a small quantity of carrot and celery cutt
fine, one shalot, half a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, and some parsley;
moisten with the remaining half-bottle of Champagne; boil the cray-
fish, and when done, remove the shells from the claws and tails,
reserving the shells for the purpose of making crayfish butter after-
ward (No. 184). Next, pouud the bodies, tails, and claws in the
mortar, take the produce up into a stewpan, moisten with a large
ragout spoonful of good Allemande sauce, and after warming the puree
over the fire, rub it through a tammy in the usual maimer; remem-
bering that it must be kept sufficiently thick to be able to mask the
fish with it. Then reduce the liquor in which the mullets and cray-
fish have been dressed to half a glaze, and incorporate a sufficient quan-
tity of it with the bisque, to give it flavor; add a pat of lobster or
crayfish .butter, made with the shells reserved for this purpose, a little
essence of auchovies aud lemon-juice; pour the sauce over the mullets,


168 DEESSED FISH IN GENERAL.
and garnish them round with a border of quenelles of whiting, colored
with chopped and blanched parsley, and some small fillets of soles
contises with truffles: place them alternately overlapping each other.
The fillets of soles after being contises with truffles, should be turned
round and placed in a sauta-pun with some fresh butter, previously to
being simmered.
Note.—Mullets shonld never be drawn; it is sufficient to take out
the gills only, as the liver and trail are considered the best parts of
this fish. According to Yarrell's History of British Fishes, there are
two distinct species of red mullets: the one is called the striped red,
the other the plain red mullet, the former being the sort generally
exposed for sale by the London fishmongers. Mr. Yarrell also
informs us, that the generic term mullus, from which their name is
derived, is said to have reference to the scarlet color of the sandal
or shoe worn by the Roman Consuls, and in later times by the
Emperors—which was called mullus. It would seem that in those
days, the almost incredible price of £240 was given for three mullets
of large size.
Gray Mullets should be dressed in the same manner as red mul-
lets; they are sometimes plain boiled or broiled, and sent to table with
any of the various fish sauces iti use: but this fish, from its want of
flavor, especially requires the assistance of the most skillful cookery.
The Grayling is seldom seen in the London market, although,
from its claims to the notice of epicures, it certainly deserves to be
better known; when dressed in the manner described for the prepara-
tion of mullets or whitings, it will be found deserving a higher estima-
tion than has hitherto been accorded to, it. This fish is in season in
the months of October and November.
Whiting Poult, which in shape somewhat resembles perch, and in
color is like the whiting, having when fresh mueh of its silvery hue,
is found to be in best condition during the months of November and
December, although they are sometimes taken in the spring of the
year. Partaking in a great measure of the same character as the
grayling, it should, like that fish, be prepared for table in a similar
manner to red mullets. The same method is also to be used in dress-
ing gwynniad, a species of lake fish, commonly found in Wales, Cum-
berland, and some pacts of Ireland and Scotland.
486. FILLETS OF WHITINGS, A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL.
Fillet the number of whitings required, cut each fillet in two, trim'
the ends neatly round, and place the fillets side by side in a buttered
sauta-pan; season with pepper and salt, strew over them some chopped
parsley, cover the fillets with a little melted fresh butter, and squeeze
the juice of half a lemon over them; cover with a buttered round of
paper, and set. them in the oven, or on the stove-fire—from five to seven
minutes will suffice to do them; then, take the fillets up carefully on to
a napkin to drain, and afterward dish them up in the form of a close
circle, pour some Matire d'Hdiel sauce (No. 43) over them, and serve.
Note.—Fillets of whitings thus prepared may be sent to table with
any of the following sauces:—Italian, Rauigotle, shrimp, fine herbs,
crayfish, Dutch sauce, Supreme, with scollops of lobster, or oyster
sauces: the dish is named according to the sauce used for the fillets.


WHITINGS. 169
487. FILLETS OP WHITINGS, A LA HOBLY.
Fillet the whitings, and remove the skin from each, by first placing
the fillet on the table, with the skin downward, then inserting the
point of the knife between the skin and the flesh, bearing lightly with
the left hand on the fillet, gradually draw the knife under, so as to
separate the skin from the fish withont wasting its flesh: having thus
trimmed the fillets, next put them into a basin with pepper and salt,
thyme and bay-leaf, three chalots cut into slices, and some sprigs of
parsley; add two tablespoonsful of oil and one of French vinegar, and
after the fillets have been steeped for about a couple of hours, drain
tbem on a napkin, dip them thoroughly in flour, and fry them of a fine
light color; dish them up in a pyramidal form, with some parsley fried
of a green color, and serve up with the fish a sauce-boat of either
of the following sauces:—white or brown Italian, Tomata, Poivrade,
Dutch, Ravigolle, or Gasconne.
488. FILLETS OF WHITINGS, A LA MARECHALE.
Trim the fillets of any number of whitings as in the previous
instance; cut each in two, trim the pieces neatly, and place them
separately on a large earthen dish. Then mask each fillet with a thin
coating of reduced Allemande sauce, first seasoning the fillets with
pepper and salt; when the sauce has stiffened on them, dip each fillet
in some very fine bread-crumbs, afterward in beaten eggs, and then
in bread-crumbs again; smooth and shape the fillets with the blade of
a knife, and as each is finished off, place it with care in a sauta-pau
containing some clarified butter. Twenty minutes before dinner, set
the fillets on a brisk stove-fire to fry; as soon as they have acquired a
light color on the under side, turn them carefully over with a knife,
and when the fillets are nicely colored on both sides, remove them on
to a napkin, in order to absorb the butter that may remain about
them; then dish them up in the form of a wreath, and sauce them in
the centre with some Dutch sauce—with the addition of an infusion of
horseradish in French vinegar—some shrimps, oysters, muscles, prawns,
crayfish, or merely some chopped and blanched parsley, according to
taste or convenience.
489. FILLETS OF WHITINGS, A LA ROYALE.
Trim and marinade the fillets of whitings in the manner directed for
preparing whitings a la Uorly (No. 487). About twenty minutes be-
fore dinner, drain the fillets on a napkin, and then dip each fillet
separately in some light-made frying batter, and then throw them one
after another in some frying fat heated for the purpose; as soon as
they are done, and have acquired a light-brown color, take the fillets
oat of the fat on to a cloth, with the corners of which touch them
lightly in order to absorb any grease they may retain; then dish the
fillets up either in a pyramidal form, or else in a circle, and pour some
white Bavigotte, white Italian, Venetian, or Dutch sauce, under and
round them, and send to table.
4.90. WHITINGS, BOILED.
When the whitings are trimmed, boil them in spring water with a
little salt—about seven minutes will suffice to do them; take the fish
oat of the water as soon as done, dish them up on a fish-plate covered


170
DRESSED FISH IN GENERAL.
with a napkin, and send to table with a boatful of either of the follow-
ing sauces:—Anchovy, Shrimp, Plain butter, or Dutch.
491. WHITINGS, FRIED.
To prepare whitings for frying, it is necessary first to skin them as
follows:—
With a cloth in the left hand, take a firm hold of the whiting at the
back part of the head, just below the gills, then loosen the skin on each
side of the fish, just at the commencement of the upper dorsal fin, by
inserting the point of a small hnife, and with the right hand pull the
skin off sharply, first on one side and then on the other. When the
fish is skinned and trimmed, turn the tail round into its mouth, and
fasten the ends together with a short peg of wood; dip each fish into
some beaten eggs, and coyer it with fine bread-crumbs. A quarter of
an hour before dinner, fry them of a fine color in some fat heated for
the purpose, dish them on a napkin with fried parsley, and send tc
table with a boatful of either of the following sauces:—Anchovy,
Dutch, Shrimp, or Plain butter.
• 492. WHITINGS, BROILED.
Trim and score the whitings on both sides, rub them over with oil,
and broil them on a gridiron, previously rubbed with whitening; when
broiled on one side, turn them over on the other, taking care to keep
them of a fine color; when done, dish them on a napkin, and send to
table with a boatful of either of the following sauces: Dutch, white
Bavigotte, Venetian, brown oyster sauce, or Mattre d? Hotel.
Note.—Whitings in cases with fine herbs, stuffed and baked a la
VUeroi,a la Cardinal, &c, are dressed in the same manner as mullets.
FRESH-WATER FISH,
SECTION I.
COHPRIS1HO
Char, i la Ginoite. Lamprey, A la Beauchamp.
„ in Matelotte. Smelts fried.
„ d la Hollandaiie. „ in Matelotte.
„ & la Beaufort. „ in cases, with fine-herbs.
Lamprey in Matelotte. „ & la Boyale.
„ & la Foley.
Char is in season from July till October, and forms a most delicions
variety for the table in the summer season. When perfectly fresh, it
makes perhaps the best water souchet of any fish.*
493. CHAR, A LA GENOISE.
Boil the fish in salt and water, and when done, skin and glaze
them; dish them up, sauce with some Oenoise sauce (No. 30), gar-
nish with a border of small quenelles of whiting, and crayfish tails, and
send to table.
* Water Souchot of Char is described among the Water Souchett.


CHAB. 171
494. CHAR, IN MATELOTTB.
Trim the char intended to be dressed, place them in an oval stewpan
with an onion and carrot cut in thin slices, also a bay-leaf and a sprig
of thyme, a bouquet of parsley and green onions, a blade of mace, a few
pepper-corns, some parings of mushrooms, and a little salt; moisten
with a bottle of Claret, and set the whole to stew gently on a stove-fire
for about twenty minutes or half an hour, according to the size of the
fish. As soon as the fish are done, drain them on a wet napkin;
remove their skin with a knife, and place them neatly on the dish.
Then, reduce the liquor in which the char have been stewed (after first
being strained and skimmed), with a sufficient quantity of brown sauce
for the purpose; when the sauce is reduced, add a little nutmeg, a pat
of butter, and some lemon-juice, and pass it through a tammy into a
stewpan containing some prepared button-mushrooms, button-onions,
and very small quenelles of whiting; warm the ragout, pour it over
and abont the char, garnish the matelotte with a border of large crayfish,
and some crdulons, and serve.
495. CHAR, A LA HOLLANDAISE.
Boil the char in salt and water, dish them up on a napkin, and send
to table with a boatful of Dutch sauce.
Char, thus plain boiled, may also be sent to table with parsley and
batter, green Ravigotte, or Crayfish sauce.
496. CHAR, A LA BEAUFORT.
Place the char when trimmed in an oval stewpan, with sliced carrot
and onion, a fagot of parsley and green onions, mace, mushrooms,
pepper-corns, thyme, bay-leaf, and salt; moisten with French white
wine, and set the fish to stew gently on the stove fire. When done,
drain them on to a napkin, skin and mask them with some glaze mixed
with some bruised coral of lobster, place them on their dish, and sance
them round with a Parisian ragout (No. 203) mixed with the liquor in
which the char has been stewed, after this liquor has been reduced to
glaze; garnish round with a border of lobster croquettes.
497. LAMPREY MATELOTTE.
To cleanse lampreys,* it is necessary to put them into a large
earthen vessel with plenty of salt, with which they should be well
scoured, and afterward thoroughly washed in several waters: by this
means they are freed from the slimy mucus which adheres to this
kind of fish. The lamprey should then be trimmed and cut into
pieces about three inches long, or it may be left whole, according to
taste; it should be placed in a stewpan with sliced carrot and onion,
mace, pepper-corns, thyme, and bay-leaf, parsley, mushrooms, and salt;
* Of this kind of fish there are two different sorts in general use for the table; one
being the sea or marine lamprey, which is abundant at Gloucester and Worcester, where
it is dressed and preserved for the purpose of being given as presents. The other sort,
the lumperu, is much smaller; this is to be found in the Thames, and may easily be
obtained at any Of the London fishmongers from the month of October till March, at
Which period tbey are in season. The lamprey is considered to be in best condition
daring the months of April and May, when it ascends the Severn from the sea, for the
purpose of depositing its spawn.


172 FRESH-WATER FISH.
moisten it with Port wine, and set the whole to stew gently on the
stove-fire. When done, take half the liquor in which the lampreys
"have been stewed, and reduce it with some brown sauce; add a glass
of Port wine, and as soon as the sauce is reduced to a proper con-
sistency, incorporate with it a pat of butter, a little essence of anchovies,
and lemon-juice, and pass it through a tammy into a bain-marie, con-
taining some button-mushrooms, stewed small button-onions, and some
small quenelles of perch. Drain the lampreys, place them on a dish,
sauce them over with the ragout, garnish round with crayfish, and seDd
to table.
498. LAMPREY, A LA FOLEY.
Take two fine lampreys, thoroughly cleansed, form each into a circular
shape, and fasten them with string: then stew them in Claret, with the
addition of vegetables, &c, as in the foregoing cases; as soon as the
lampreys are done, reduce two-thirds of their liquor with an equal pro-
portion of brown sauce, and some essence of mushrooms—when suffi-
ciently reduced, incorporate with this some crayfish butter, and a little
essence of anchovies, a very little nutmeg, lemon-juice, and cayenne,
and pass the sauce through a tammy into a bain-marie containing three
dozen crayfish tails, and as many button-mushrooms—previously pre-
pared for the purpose. Then drain the lampreys on a napkin, and
afterward place them, one resting on the other, in the dish, sauce them
over with prepared ragout; garnish round with a border of glazed
crdutons and fried small fillets of perch.
499. LAMPREYS, A LA BEACCHAMP.
Tecss the lampreys as directed in the previous article, stew them in
old Madeira, cider, and the requisite vegetables, &c; add two-thirds
of their liquor to an eqnal quantity of good brown sauce, work the
whole by boiling on the fire, skim and reduce it to its proper consist-
ency, add some lobster-butter, cayenne, and lemon-juice, and pass the
sauce through a tammy into a bain-marie containing some small round
truffles, lobster quenelles, and tails of crayfish. Dish up the lampreys
as in the last case, and sauce them over with the prepared ragout;
garnish round with some glazed pastry Jleurons, and send to table.
Lampcrus are treated in the same manner as lampreys, being similar
in flavor. ,
500. SMELTS, FRIED, ETC.
When preparing smelts* for frying, take the gills out carefully, trim
the fins, wipe the fish with a clean cloth, dip them first in flour, and
afterward in beaten egg, and then in fine bread crumbs; fry them in
some heated hogs' lard, of a fine color; dish them up on a napkin, and
garnish them with fried parsley, and send to table with a boatful of
either Anchovy, Dutch, Shrimp, Crayfish, or Lobster sauce.
Smelts may also be dressed with advantage in Normande matelotte,
in cases, with fine-herbs, a Vltaliinne, a la Royale, &c; by observing the
directions given for dressing mullets or whitings in a similar manner.
* This kind offish, which is in general estimation, is in season from August till March,
when after depositing their spawn in fresh water, they return to the sea.


173
FRESH-WATER FISH.
SECTION IL
COMPRISING
lels, spitchcocked. Carp, d la Chanbord.
TU'lin Krn!l**H rt In Ttrttmt*t
plain broiled.
., stewed, d I'Anglaiie.
ilattlotte of Eels, a la Bordelaiie.
„ „ d la Paritibwe.
„ „ d la Genutee.
Eels, d la DaupkinoUe,
d la Royale.
d la liourguignotte.
d la Pirigneux.
d la Provenqale.
d FAllemande.
d la Vtnilihme.
d la VtnitiZnne. Stowed Carp, a I'Anglaite.
„ d la Tartars. Small Carp fried.
„ d la Pnulette. Tench.
,, d Uludiinne.
501. EEL8, SPITCHCOCKED.
As eels,* when brought into the kitchen, are frequently .alive, it is
first necessary to kill them; this, from their tenacity of life, is found
by many not easy to accomplish; it is, however, merely necessary to
insert the point of any sharp instrument into the spine, at the back of
the head, to the depth of an inch, and the eel will become perfectly
motionless. Then take a firm hold of the eel with a cloth in the left
hand, and with the right hand proceed to detach the skin just below
the gills, with the point of a small knife; when there is a sufficient
quantity of skin loosened, so as to gain a .purchase, hold the head
firmly with the left band, and with a cloth in the right, force the skin
to slide off the fish. Then cut off the head, make an incision about
two inches in length at the vent, and the same at the neck, draw the
gut, &c, trim away the fins, wash and thoroughly cleanse each fish;
wipe them with a cloth, and then, after sprinkling them with salt, let
them lie on a dish for an hour or so, previously to dressing them.
After having trimmed the eels, lay each on its back in a straight line
on the table, and with a -knife, open it from one extremity to the
other; detach the back-bone, and take it out; then cut the eel into
several pieces about three inches long, season them with pepper and
salt, and sprinkle them over with chopped parsley and shalot; dip
each piece -of eel separately in some beaten egg, and afterward in some
fine bread-crumbs. Place the eels thus prepared on a dish in the
larder, until within twenty minutes of dinner-time; then proceed to
fry them of a fine color, and dish them up with fried parsley round
them, and send to taMe. Either of the following may be served in
a sance-boat with spitchcocked eels:—Dutch, Hali&nne, Venitidnne,
Poivrade, Piquanle, Tartare, Tomata, or Gasconne sauce.
* There are fonr distinct sorts of eels: the snig, the broad-nosed, the grig, and the
■harp-nuwd ; the latter is the kind generally known. The London markets are supplied
principally from Holland: Thames eels are, however, in high repute; being caught in a
pinning stream, their skin is brighter and more silvery; they are preferable, too, from
their greater sweetness, to the Dutch eels.


174 FRESH-WATER FISH.
502. EELS, PLAIN BROILED.
Bone and cut the eels into three-inch lengths, put them on a dish,
season with pepper and salt, lemon juice, and two spoonsful of oil;
twenty minutes before dinner, broil them of a light color, dish them
up on a napkin with fried parsley, and send to table with either of the
sauces named in the foregoing article, in a sauce-boat, separately.
503. EELS, STEWED A L'ANGLAISE.
The eels being skinned, trimmed, and cut into pieces about two
inches long, place them in a stewpan, with some sliced carrot, onion,
parsley, bay-leaf, and thyme, a handful of mushroom trimmings, a few
pepper-corns, four cloves, a blade of mace, and a little salt; moisten
with half a bottle of Port wine, cover with a round of buttered paper,
replace the lid on the stewpan, and set the eels on the stove-fire to
stew. When they have boiled gently on the corner of the stove for
about twenty minutes, they will be done; then drain and trim them,
keeping their liquor to make the sauce; place the pieces of eel in a
clean stewpan, and then proceed to make a sauce for them in the
following manner:—Put about two ounces of fresh butter into a
stewpan on the fire, and as soon as it is melted, add two tablespoons-
ful of flour; with a wooden spoon stir them both together over the
fire, until the roux, or thickening, becomes slightly colored; then
throw in a couple of shalots, and moisten gradually with the liquor
in which the eels have been stewed, adding thereto a small ladleful of
good stock, and a couple of glasses of Port wine. Stir the sauce over
the fire till it boils, and set it on the corner of the stove, to continue
gently throwing up the scum, which, having entirely removed, reduce
the sauce, if necessary, to its proper consistency; and then pass it
through a tammy into the stewpan containing the pieces of eel already
mentioned. Just before sending to table, add a few prepared button-
mushrooms, a pat of fresh butter, some chopped and blanched parsley,
lemon-juice, and a very small quantity of essence of anchovy; toss
the whole well together over the fire until well mixed; then dish
the eels up in a pyramidal form on their dish, pour the sauce over
them, garnish round with a dozen crdutons of fried bread, and send
to table.
504. MATELOTTE OF EELS, A LA BORDELAISE.
Cut some eels into three-inch lengths, place them in a stewpan
with sliced carrot, onion, parsley-roots, mushrooms, thyme, and bay-
leaf, mace, four cloves, and a few pepper-corns; season with a little
salt, and moisten with a bottle of claret. Set the eels to stew on
the fire, and when done, drain, trim, and place them in a clean stew-
pan with a little of their liquor to moisten them. Then put the
remainder of the liquor into a stewpan with a ladleful of brown
sauce, some essence of mushrooms, and two glasses of claret; let this
boil, then set it by the side of the stove to continue gently boiling,
that it may throw up the scum, and become bright; when this is
effected, reduce it to its proper consistency, by boiling it down
quickly, stirring the sauce the whole time with a wooden spoon to
prevent its sticking to the bottom of the stewpan and burning. Then
pass the sauce through a tammy into a bain-marie, and just before


EELS. 175
asing it, make it hot, and incorporate with it the following prepara-
tions :—mix a pint of butter with three anchovies, a tea-spoonful of
capers, a clove of garlic, and a little nutmeg, pound the whole together
and pass them through a sieve: having well worked this into the sauce,
pour it over the matelotte, and dish up the latter as follows :—place
the pieces of eel on the dish, in circular order—each piece resting on
the other, with a glazed crouton of bread between—fill the centre
with quenelles of perch, place a trimmed and glazed crayfish across
each crduton, and garnish round the inner edge of the dish with
alternate groups of white muscles, button-mushrooms, and stewed
button-onions.
505. MATELOTTE OF EELS, A LA PARISIENNE.
Cut the eels into four-inch lengths, put them into a stewpan with
sliced carrot, &c; moisten with a bottle of French white wine, some
essence of mushrooms, and the liquor produced by three dozen
blanched oysters; stew the eels thus prepared; drain, trim, and put
the pieces of eels into a clean stewpan, with a little of their own
liquor to keep them moist and to warm them in. Put the remainder
of the liquor into a stewpan with a large ladleful of white veloute
sauce, and two glasses of white wine; reduce the whole quickly on
the fire, incorporate therein a leason of four yelks of eggs, a large pat
of crayfish butter, some lemon-juice, and a little nutmeg; pass the
sauce into a bain-marie containing the three dozen oysters before
alluded to, some button-mushrooms, and crayfish tails. When about
to dish up, first place upon the dish an oval piece of bread, about
three inches high, cut in flutes all round and fried of a light color;
then set the pieces of eels in a perpendicular position up against the
fried bread, garnish the crdustade with a group of small quenelles of
whitings, sauce with the ragout prepared for the purpose, garnish
round with large crayfish, and small fluted bread crdustad.es filled with
soft roes of mackerel or carp, and send to table.
506. MATELOTTE OF EELS, A LA GENOISE.
Either cut the eels into three or four-inch lengths, or truss them
into an oval or round shape; prepare them for stewing with the usual
vegetables, &c, moisten with Claret or Burgundy wine, and set the
eels on the fire to stew. When done, drain, trim, and glaze them
with some lobster coral in the glaze; pile the eels up in a pyramidal
group on a dish, sauce with some good Genoise sauce (No. 30), made
with the liquor in which the eels have been stewed; garnish round
with alternate groups of button-mushrooms, small quenelles of carp,
and crayfish tails, and send to table.
507. EELS, A LA DAUPHINOISE.
Bone two large eels, fill them with force-meat of whitings mixed
with some simmered fine-herbs; then sew the eels up with a large
worsted needle and some coarse thread; truss them in a circular
form, place them in an oval stewpan with some mirepoix (No. 236),
and set them to stew on the fire, or in the oven, basting them
frequently with their own liquor, and taking care that they arc not
allowed to boil fast, as that would cause them to break, and otherwise
disfigure them. When the eels are done, glaze and dish them up.


176 FRESH-WATER CRAYFISH.
one Testing on the other in the dish; in the centre of one, place a
group of quenelles of whitings mixed with some chopped truffles, and
in the centre of the other, place another group of quenelles of whitings
colored with lobster coral; sauce them with some Perigueux sauce
(No. 23), in which has been mixed half the mirepoix the eels have been
stewed in, and finish with a pat of anchovy butter and lemon-juice.
Garnish round with large crayfish, placing a group of half-a-dozen of
the finest of these in the centre of the dish.
508. EELS, A LA VENITIErfNE.
Cut the eels into pieces four inches long, stew them in some mire'
poix of French white wine; when done, drain, trim, and glaze them
with some lobster coral-colored glaze, and dish them up in two
parallel conical groups; pour round them some Venetian sauce,
(No. 26), which has been finished with the addition of half the mire-
poix, in which the eels have been stewed, a pat of anchovy butter and
the juice of half a lemon; pass this through a tammy into a stewpart
containing a pottle of prepared button-mushrooms; some blanched
chopped parsley must be added the last thing. Garnish round with
groups of muscles fried in batter, and serve.
509. EELS, A LA TARTARE
Either cut the eels into three-inch lengths, or truss them whole,
in a circular form; place them in a stewpan with sliced carot and
onion, parsley, bay-leaf and thyme, a few peppercorns and salt;
moisten with a gill of vinegar and some water; then put them on the
fire to boil, and as soon as they are done, set them to cool partially in
their liquor:—after which drain, trim, and bread-crumb them with
egg, fry them of a fine color, dish them up with fried parsley, and send
to table with some Tartare sauce (No. 96), in a sauce-boat.
Eels a la Tartare may also be bread-crumbed as follows. Mix the
yelks of six eggs and three ounces of fresh butter melted over the
fire, with pepper, salt, and nutmeg; with this preparation cover the
eels, and afterward bread-crumb them—causing plenty of bread-cmmbs
to adhere; put the eels on a buttered baking-sheet, drop some butter
through a spoon with holes in it over them, and about half an hour
before diner, place them in the oven to be baked of a fine color, dish
them up as in the foregoing case, and send to table with the Tartare
sauce, separately in a sauce-boat.
510. EELS, A LA POULETTE.
Stew the eels in the usual manner with white wine, or merely as
directed for d la Tartare, then drain, trim, and place them in a clean
stewpan, with some of'their liquor to keep them moist. Just before
dinner, dish the eels up in a group, in the centre of the dish, sauce
them with some good sauce d la Pouletle mixed with a pat of anchovy
butter (and if the eels have been stewed in white wine, half their
liquor, reduced to a glaze, should also be added to the sauce); place
round them alternate groups of crayfish tails tossed in lobster buttet
to give them a brighter color, and some scollops of perch tossed in
some green Havigotte sauce; place in the centre of the eels, just at the
top of the group, six large crayfish, eight glazed crdutons of fried
bread round the base, and serve.


CAHP. 177
511. EELS, A L'lNDIENXE.
Stew the eels as directed in the foregoing cases, dish them up in the
form of a circle, garnish the centre with plain boiled rice, sauce the eels
with a good carry (No. 74), and garnish round with some rice croquettes,
to be made-as follows:—
To four gravy-spoonsful of boiled rice, add one of good AUemande
sance, some nutmeg, and a little grated Parmesan cheese; stir the
whole on the fire till it has boiled two or three minutes, and set it on
a plate to cool; then mould the croquettes in the form of corks, pears,
or round balls, bread-crumb them with egg in the usual way, fry them
of a fine color, and use them as directed.
Eels stewed and glazed according to the different modes above de-
scribed, as well as when bread-crumbed and fried, or baked, may also
be sent to table with the following sauces:—Bourguignotte, Tomata,
Italian (white or brown), Cardinal, Matelotte, Normande, Ravigotte,
Provengale, Poivrade, Piquante, Aurora, or Crayfish sauce.
512. CARP, A LA CHAMBOBD.
Choose, if possible, a carp* weighing about six pounds, and after
scalding, drawing, and thoroughly cleansing the fish, stuff it with some
quenelle force-meat of whitings. Then lay the carp on a buttered
eheet of paper, placed upon the drainer of an oval fish-kettle, cover the
entire fish with a coating of force-meat of whitings about half an inch
thick, keeping the head clear, and with some "contises" fillets of soles,
form thereon a decoration resembling scales, but larger; in the angles
of these, place the tail of a crayfish, trimmed for the purpose; cover
the whole with thin layers of fat bacon, moisten with a white wine mtre-
poix, and set it to braize gently on a moderate fire, carefully prevent-
ing it from boiling fast, as that would tend to displace the fillets, &c
with which the carp has been decorated. If the fish is of large size,
it will require about an hour to braize it; when done, drain it from its
braize, remove the layers of fat bacon, &c, and plar^ it on a large
silver dish; garnish round the extremity of the inner edge of the dish
with alternate groups of small quenelles of whitings d la Perigueux,
button-mushrooms, white muscles, and crayfish tails; sauce round the
carp, without covering any part of it, with some AUemande incor-
porated with part of the liquor in which the fish has been braized, a pat
of anchovy butter, and some lemon-juice; glaze the head of the carp,
sad after ornamenting each end of the dish with a group of large cray-
fish, send to table.
513. CARP, A LA BOYALH.
Cleanse a carp of large size, wipe it with a clean cloth, and lay it
on a buttered paper, place it upon a drainer of an oval fish-kettle, and
cover it entirely with quenelle force-meat of whitings colored with
•This fish is held in high estimation on the Continent, especially those caught in tha
Rhine and Moselle. In England they are seldom found good, and this is the case also
with teach; hoth these fish being found when cooked to taste muddy: this is chiefly
•wiag to their being taken from stagnant ponds. Those only can be expected to be free
from this disagreeable peculiarity that are caught in running streams.
When about to clean carp for dressing, it is quite necessary to extract an angular sub-
Xaaee, called the gull-stone, which is to be found at the back of the head; if not re
Xived, this is rare to impart a bitter taste, and render the beat fish unfit for table.
11


178 FRESH-WATER FISH.
lobster-coral; smooth the surface of the force-meat with the blade of a
knife dipped in whipped white of epg; place some fillets of soles con-
Uses with green gherkins crosswise upon the carp, leaving the space of
an inch between each fillet—these spaces are to be filled up by inserting
in the force-meat some pieces of truffle, cut in the shape of small olives;
cover the whole with thin layers of fat bacon, and braize the carp as in
the former case, in a white wine mirepoix; when done, place it on a
large oval dish, remove the layers of bacon, &c, sauce it round with a
Ginoise sauce (No. 30), and garnish it with a border of large quenelles
of soles, half of which must be colored with lobster-coral, and the re-
mainder with chopped and blanched parsley; within the inner circle of
the quenelles, place alternate groups of prepared oysters and the tails
of prawns; at the extremities, and on the flanks of the dish, place
groups of crayfish, and send to table.
514. CARP, A LA BOURGUINOTTE.
Stew the carp whole in red wine, when done, drain, and place it on
an oval dish; sauce it with a rich Bourguignotle sauce (No. 28), gar-
nish with soft roes and crayfish, and send to table.
515. CARP, A LA PERIGUEX.
Stew the carp in wine, drain it, and dish it up; sauce it with Peri-
gueux sauce incorporated with a pat of anchovy butter and some lemon-
juice; garnish with a border of lobster quenelles, and serve.
516. CARP, A LA PROVENCALE.
Stew the carp in a mirepoix of white wine, when done, drain and
dish it up; pour some Provengale sauce over it, garnish it with
groups of muscles fried in batter, and scollops of perch tossed in
green Ravigotte sauce; place a border of crayfish round the dish, and
send to table.
517. CARP, A l'allemande.
Clean one or more carp, cut the fish into slices about two inches
thick; place the slices in a basin, and season them with a gill of oil,
a little tarragon-vinegar, minionette-pepper, and salt, bay-leaf, thyme,
and shalot; let the carp steep in this marinade till within about half
an hour of dinner-time; then drain them on a napkin, and dip each
piece separately in flour, bread-crumb them in the usual way with egg
and bread-crumbs mixed with one-fifth of Parmesan cheese; fry the
pieces of carp of a fine color, and dish them up on a napkin, placing
the pieces so as to make the fish look whole; surround the carp with
a border of fried parsley, and slices of lemon, and send to table with
two sauce-boats containing some butter sauce (see No. 70), and some
Ginoise sauce (No. 30).
518. CARP, FRIED A LA VENITIENNE.
Stew one or more carp in a white wine mirepoix (No. 236); drain
them on an earthen dish, and after removing the skin, proceed to
mask them with a coating of stiffly-reduced Allemande sauce (No. 1);
in which has been added some of the liquor the fish have been stewed
in. When the sauce has cooled upon the carp, first strew over some
bread-crumbs, then egg them over with a paste-brush, and cover them


PIKE, OR JACK. 179
entirely with bread-crumbs mixed with one-third of grated Parmesan
cheese: then place the carp in a buttered baking-dish or sheet, and
half an hour before dinner pat them in the oven to bake: they should
be of a light-brown color: set the fish on on oval dish, sauce them
round with some good Venetian sauce (No. 26), garnish with quenelles
of carp mixed with some puree of mushrooms, and send to table.
519. CARP, STEWED A L'A>tGLAISE.
For dressing carp in this way, see the directions for stewing eels a
VAnglaiae (No. 503).
520. SMALL CARP, FRIED.
Cleanse and scale the carp, split them down the back, open them
flat, season with pepper and salt, dip them in flour, and immediately
fry them of a fine color; dish them on a napkin, garnish round with
fried parsley, and send to table with either Italian, anchovy, or Dutch
sance, separately in a sauce-boat.
If preferred, the carp may be bread-crumbed for frying in the usual
way.
Tench being somewhat similar to carp, may be dressed in the vari-
ous ways in which that fish is prepared for the table, with equal suc-
cess; both these kinds of fish make excellent Matelottes, and, indeed, it
is not unnsual to prepare Matelottes of carp, tench, and eels all in tho
same dish. Tench may be sent to table either fried or boiled, with
Dutch sauce.
FRESH-WATER FISH.
section m.
COXPRIStNG
Pike, or Jack, staffed and baked. Perch, d la Stanley.
„ d la Ohambord, <£c. „ d la Wantrejuche.
,, fried in slices, d la Hollandaue. „ d la Venitilnne.
,. crimped in slices, d la Hollandaise. Fillets of Perch, d I'ltalihine, &c.
Fillets of Pike.
621. PIKE, OR JACK, STUFFED AND BAKED.
Scale, draw the gills, and thoroughly cleanse and wipe the pike
with a clean cloth; fill the paunch with well-seasoned veal stuffing;
sew it up with a trussing-needle and fine string, and either turn the
tail round into the mouth, securing them together by means of string,
or truss the pike into the shape of the letter S; make several deep
incisions in a slanting direction on both sides of the fish, and place it
in a baking-dish; season with pepper and salt, chopped parsley, and
mushrooms, and a little shalot, and from six to eight ounces of fresh
butter:—moisten with half a bottle of Sherry, and a little good stock,
or essence of mushrooms; cover with a well-buttered paper, and put
the pike thus prepared in the oven to bake—observing, that it should
be frequently basted with its liquor. When done, dish it up; then


180 FRESH-WATER FISH.
with two glasses of Sherry—detach all the glaze and herbs from the
bottom and sides of the dish in which the pike has been baked, add
to this a ladleful of good brown sauce, reduce the whole to a proper
consistency, and mix in. two ounces of fresh butter, a little essence of
anchovies, lemon-juice, and a trifle of cayenne; with this sauce mask
the pike and send to table.
522. PIKE, A LA CHAMBORD.
This dish is prepared in a similar manner to carp d Jo Chambord
(see No. 512).
This is also the case with pike a la Cardinal, ditto d la Royale,
and ditto fried d VAllemande; in fact, pike may be dressed in all re-
spects the same as carp.
523. PIKE, FRIED A LA HOLLANDAISE.
When the pike is cleaned, cut it into slices an inch thick, and place
them in an earthen vessel; season with pepper and salt, oil, lemon-
juice, chopped parsley, and a little grated nutmeg; turn the slices of
pike over in the seasoning occasionally, in order that they may be well
saturated with it, and half an hour before dinner-time, drain them on a
napkin, dip each separately in flour, and immediately fry them in hogs'
lard, made sufficiently hot for the purpose; dish them on a napkin,
place round them a border of fried parsley, and send to table with a
boat of well-seasoned Dutch sauce (No. 42).
524. CRIMPED SLICES OF PIKE, A LA HOLLANDAISE.
To produce this dish in perfection, the following instructions must
be closely attended to in every particular :—
Scale* and clean the pike, immediately on its being taken from the
water; cut the fish into slices nearly an inch thick, and put them into
a panful of spring water—fresh from the pump—which, from its cold-
ness, has the power of crimping the comparatively live fish thrown
into it. About twenty minutes before dinner, boil the slices in hot
water with a little salt; as soon as they are done, drain and dish them
up on a napkin, and send to table with either of the following, in a
sauce-boat:—Parsley and butter, Dutch sauce, Maitre d'Hotel, or Cray-
fish sauce.
525. FILLETS OF PIKE.
Mat be dressed in every variety in which salmon, turbot, or soles
are capable of being sent to table; and the directions given under
those heads will suffice. It is necessary, however, to describe here the
operation of filleting pike.
The smaller-sized of this fish are best suited for this purpose ; these
should be filleted as follows:—
First lay the fish on the table, with its back placed toward yon,
insert the knife just below the gill, press with the left hand slightly
on the upper part of the fillet, and then draw the knife down—close
to the back-bone; when one fillet is removed, repeat the same opera-
tion on the other side. Then lay the fillets alternately on the table
• The easiest way i* to place the pike in a sink, and then to pour some boiling water
OTer it, by which menus the scales are effectually removed by scraping them off with a
knife.


•
PERCH.
181
with the skin downward, insert the edge of the knife close to the skin,
at the extreme end, and by drawing the knife to and fro, keeping the
blade clossly pressed to the skin, it will come away from the fillet.
Then cut these fillets into smaller ones, according to taste or conve-
nience, or into scollops, as the case may require.
626. PERCH, A LA STANLEY.
Thoroughly cleanse two or three fine bright perch, which should
weigh not less than one pound and a half each; stew them in Rhenish
wine, and when done, drain them on a napkin, dish them up, and gar-
nish with a Parisian ragout (No. 203), omitting the truffles, but con-
taining the liquor the perch have been stewed in. Garnish round with
a border of large crayfish, and send to table.
527. PERCH, A LA WASTREFISCHE.
Bon, the perch in French white wine, and when done, after removing
the skin, dish it up, and stick the red fins straight up in a row, down
the centre of the fish; on each side of the fins thus placed, decorate the
perch by laying on its uppermost fillets streaks of carrot and parsley-
roots, shred exceedingly fine, and boiled; also in alternate rows with
these, some blanched leaves of green parsley. Pour round the perch
die following sance:
Reduce the liqnor in which the perch have been stewed with a pro-
portionate quantity of white Veloutk sance; add a pat of fresh butter,
some white essence of mushrooms, a little nutmeg, and lemon-juice;
mix the whole well together, and serve.
628. PERCH, A LA VENITIENNE.
Bon. the perch, skim and dish them up, placing the red fins in a row
down the centre; moisten them over with some sauce d la Veniti&nnc
(No. 26), and send to table.
In addition to the foregoing methods for preparing perch for tho
table, this fish may also be dressed in the same way as pike, carp, and
tench, in Maielolte, d la Dauphine, Water Souchet, d I'Allemande,
a la Oenoise, d la Hollandaise, d la Maiire d'Hdtel, and also with
Shrimp, Parsley and butter, and plain Butter sance.
Note.—Perch should be served in fillets only, when it happens that
they are small, or that they are plentiful; otherwise it is usual to dress
this kind of fish whole.
529. FILLETS OF PERCH, A L'lTALIENNE.
Follow the directions given for filleting pike, divesting the fillets
of the skin in like manner; trim them neatly, by rounding them at one
end, and bring the other end to a point. Then lay the fillets in a circle
in a sauta-pan, with some clarified fresh butter; season with a little salt,
pepper, and lemon-juice. Twenty minutes before dinner-time, set the
fillets on the stove-fire, or in the oven, for about ten minutes to simmer;
and when they are thoroughly done, drain them on a napkin, and dish
them up in the form of a close circle; sauce them with a white or brown
Italian sauce, and send to table.
Fillets of perch thus prepared, may also be sent to table with either
of the following sauces, from which the dish will take its name : a la Bavi-
gotte, d la Maiire d'Hotel, d la Cardinal, d la Verlpre, d la Hollandaiite.


182
SKATE, WHITEBAIT, AND SCOLLOPED SHELL-FISH,
COMPRISING
Crimpod Skate, boiled. Crimped Skate, <J la Pascaline.
„ „ fried. „ „ d la Jtoyale.
„ „ with nut-brown batter. White Bait
.
„ ,, d I'ltaliinne. Soolloped Oysters.
„ „ with fine-herbs ait gratin. Muscles, Lobalers, Cockles,. 4c.
There are many varieties of skate, amongst these that generally
called the blue or gray skate is deemed best for the table. Although
not held in much repute, it nevertheless is not unworthy the notice of
the epicure, when properly dressed. In order to clean this fish, skin it
on both sides, draw and wash it thoroughly; then lay the skate flat
on the table, and cut it up in the following manner: First, with a
sharp knife separate, on both sides, the fleshy parts of the fish from
the back-bone, drawing the knife in a curving direction; afterward,
cut these winglike pieces into long strips, by cutting right through
the cartilaginous or finny parts; then, place these strips in a pan filled
with fresh water from the pump, in order to crimp them. In like
manner cut the fleshy parts remaining, and also the back-bone itself,
into three-inch lengths, and place them also in the cold water to be
crimped. Reserve the liver of the fish to be dressed with it. The
water in which the fish is placed should be changed often, until the
crimping be effected.
530. CRIMPED SKATE, BOILED.
Turn the fin-pieces of skate round and fasten them with string;
boil Ae fish in hot water with a handful of salt in it; when done,
drain and dish it up on a napkin, placing the pieces of liver in the
centre; garnish round with a row of green parsley, and send to table
with either of the following, in a sauce-boat: Lobster, Crayfish, Shrimp,
Anchovy, Dutch, Muscle, or Oyster sauce.
531. CRIMPED SKATE, FRIED.
With a clean napkin, absorb all the moisture from the pieces of
skate intended to be fried; after which dip each piece into flour pre-
paratory to its being again dipped in beaten egg, and then rolled in
very fine bread-crumbs; turn the pieces of skate round into shape
again, and fry them of a fine bright color, and dish them up on a nap-
kin with a border of fried parsley, and send to table with either of the
sauces, recommended for boiled skate.
532. CRIMPED SKATE, WITH NUT-BROWN BUTTER.
Boil the skate, drain and place it on a silver dish, surround it with
a border of fried parsley, and pour over it some well-seasoned nut-
brown butter (No. 93).
533. SKATE, FRIED A L'ITALIENNE.
Bread-crumr and fry the fish as directed for fried skate; when done,
place it on a dish, pour under it a good brown Italian sauce (No. 12),
and serve.


SKATE—WHITEBAIT. 183
534. SKATE, WITH FNE-HERBS, AU GRATTN.
Butter a baking-dish or sauta-pan, and after first turning the pieces
of skate round, lay them neatly in the dish, strew over them some
chopped mushrooms, parsley, and a very little shalot; season with
pepper and salt, and moisten with two glasses of Sherry and a spoonful
of consommi; then shake some fine browned bread-crumbs or rasp-
ings over the whole, and set it in the oven to bake; when done, place
the pieces of skate on the dish, in the same position which they occu-
pied on the baking-dish; reduce the liquor they have been baked in,
and add to it some Espagnole or brown Italian sauce, mix therewith a
small piece of butter, a little essence of anchovies, and lemon-juice;
poor the sance round the fish; shake some fresh raspings over the
whole, and then set the dish (if it be silver) on the stove to gratinate
or consolidate the sauce and fish, for a minute or two; pass the red-
hot salamander over it, and send to table.
535. CRIMPED SKATE, A LA PASCALINE.
Turn the pieces of skate round in the usual manner, boil, drain,
and dish them up; then pour over the fish a well-seasoned sauce a la
Pascaline (No. 15) made rather piquanle; garnish round with glazed
croutons of fried bread, on which should be placed a neatly-trimmed
piece of the liver, and send to table.
536. SKATE, A LA ROYALE.
Bon. the skate till it is half done, drain it, and after allowing it to
cool, cut it into pieces about two inches long, place these in a basin
and marinade them in oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt. Twenty minutes
before dinner, drain the pieces of skate on a napkin, and then having
first dipped each piece separately in some frying batter prepared for
the purpose, fry them of a fine color in plenty of hogs'-lard, heated
for the purpose; dish the skate up in a pyramidal form, sauce round
with Ravigotte or Poivrade sauce, garnish the dish with alternate
groups of fried parsley and pieces of the liver, and serve.
537. WHITEBAIT.
This very delicious fish is in season during the months of June,
July, and August: it is then eaten in the greatest perfection at
Greenwich and Blackwall. Owing to the extreme delicacy of thir.
fish, and its very fragile nature, it cannot be conveyed any distance
during the season, without injuring its quality, neither can it be kept
many hours after it has been taken.
The following is the best method of preparing whitebait for the table.
Drain the fish on a clean napkin, thoroughly absorbing all the
water; then roll them in flour, and afterward drop them into some
heated frying fat: as soon as they become crisp, drain them on a sieve,
and after drying them for a minute or two before the fire, sprinkle ou
them a little salt, dish them on a napkin, and send to table accom-
panied by plates of white and brown bread and butter, and quarters
of lemon,—to be handed round, with cayenne pepper.
538. SCOLLOPED OYSTERS.
Opjen a sufficient quantity of oysters for the purpose, and put them


184
■
REMOVES OF BEEF.
in a stewpan on the fire to blanch or parboil; after boiling for a few
minutes, drain them on a sieve, reserving their liquor \o make the
sauce with; immerse the oysters in cold water so as to wash off any
scum or surf that may adhere to them; take away the beard and
gristly substance, and place the oysters thus prepared on a plate,
while the sauce is being made in manner following: Into a sniall
stewpan put two ounces of fresh butter, one tablespoonful of flour, a
very little pepper, and salt; with a wooden spoon mix the whole
thoroughly, moisten with the oyster liquor and half a pint of cream,
add a small piece of glaze, and then stir the stiuce on the fire till it
boils; keep stirring this for about ten minntes, by which titne it will
be sufficiently reduced to admit of the oysters being added to it; then
squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, mix the whole well together, and
after putting the oysters in the silver scollop-shells, (or, clean scoured
oyster-shells will do,) cover them with fried bread-crumbs. About
ten minutes before serving, place them in the oven till they are
sufficiently hot to send to table, dish them on a napkin, and serve.
638a. SCOLLOPED OYSTERS another way.
The oysters being prepared as set forth in the foregoing recipe,
first boil down their liquor to a fourth part of its original quantity,
add thereto half a pint of white sauce, the yelks of two eggs, a little
grated nutmeg, cayenne pepper, and the juice of half a lemon, a tea-
spoonful of essence of anchovies and a similar quantity of Harvey
sauce; and, after stirring the whole over the fire for five minutes, the
oysters should be mixed in, and then, after being placed neatly in the
shells,^—finished as directed in the preceding article.
Scolloped muscles, cockles, shrimps, lobsters, or crayfish, may be
prepared in like manner; a little essence of anchovies should however
be added to the sauce for all these—except muscles and cockles; and
for lobsters, the coral should be added also.
REMOVES 6F BEEF,
OOHPRIS1BS
Braiied Roll of Beef, & la Flamande.
,, ,, d la Printaniire.
,, ,, d la Polonaise.
„ . „ d I'Allemande.
,, ,, d la Roy ale.
„ ,, d la Windsor.
„ ,, d la Claremont.
Braiied Roll of Beef, <J la tTOrUan*.
„ ,, d la Milatiaiee.
„ „ d la Jlicheliev.
„ ,, d la Dauphinoit*.
n n garnished with glued
roots.
Braiied romp of Beef.
539. BRAIZED ROLL OF BEEF, A LA FLAMANDE.
Take a piece of sirloin of beef, well covered with fat, weighing
about twenty pounds; bone it, leaving the fillet adhering to the
upper part; daube or interlard the fillet in a slanting position, by
inserting with a large daubing needle some pieces of ham or bacon
about a quarter of an inch square and four inches long; then roll the
beef up close, and fasten it round with a string so as to secure its
shape. Break up the bones and place them with the trimmings at


BKAIZED ROLL OF BEEF.
185
the bottom of a braizing pan; then place the roll of beef on the bones,
and garnish with four carrots, four onions, with a clove stuck in each,
four heads of celery, and a fagot of parsley with thyme and a bay-leaf,
and two blades of mace; moisten with half a bottle of Sherry and
two glasses of brandy; set the whole on the stove to simmer for
about ten minutes, then add a sufficient quantity of good stock or
consotnmi, nearly to cover the beef; place thereon a well-buttered paper,
and, after having caused it to boil, set the braizing pan to continue
gently boiling on a smothered stove for about five or six hours: the
time for this must be regulated by the degree of tenderness of the
meat. When the beef is done, drain, trim, and put it into a conve-
nient-sized pan, containing a little of the liquor in which it has been
braized; and with a portion of the remaining part, work some brown
sauce for the remove; boil the rest down, and with this glaze the beef.
Place it on a dish, garnish round with alternate groups of turned and
glazed carrots and turnips, glazed onions, and Brussels-sprouts; pour
the sauce above alluded to round the dish, glaze the beef, and send to
table.
540. BRAIZED BEEF, A LA PRINTANIERE.

Prepare and braize a piece of sirloin of beef, according to the
foregoing directions; dish it up, and place round it groups of young
carrots (turned in their own shape and glazed in the usual manner),
asparagus-heads, small buds of cauliflowers, and French-beans, cut in
the shape of diamonds, and boiled green ; round the dish place a border
of turnips cut in the form of deep saucers, and filled with green peas;
poor some bright Espagnole sauce (No. 3) round the remove, glaze
the beef, and stick on it five or seven ornamental silver skewers, all of
them garnished with carrots, turnips, &c, similar to the centre-skewer
in the above wood-cut, and send to table. >
541. BRAIZED ROLL OF BEEF, A LA POLONAISE.
Braize the roll of beef as in the previous cases, mask it with some
glaze in which beet-root juice has been mixed; dish the beef up on


186 REMOVES OF BEEF.
a bed of braized red cabbage (No. 163), garnish round with alternate
groups of glazed small onions, and thoroughly well-boiled beet-root cut
into the shape of small pears or half-moons, and glazed; pour some
Poivrade sauce (No. 29) round the remove, and serve.
542. BRAIZED ROLL OF BEEF, A LALLEMAN'DE.
Braize the beef in the usual manner, garnish it round with stewed
sauer-kraut (No. 165), round which place a border of potatoes cut in
the shape of large olives, and fried of a fine light color in butter; sauce
round with Poivrade or brown sauce, and send to table.
543. BRAIZED ROLL OF BEEF, A LA ROYALE.
Prepare and braize the roll of beef, as directed for dressing the
beef a la Flamande; after trimming and glazing the roll, place it on
a dish, and sauce it round with a rich ragout a la Financiere (No. 188);
garnish round with a border of larded lambs' sweet-breads and whole
truffles, placed alternately round the dish, and ornament the roll of
beef by inserting six silver attelets or skewers garnished as follows :—
First run the point of a skewer through a large double cock's-comb,
then a large mushroom, a fine truffle, and lastly, a fine crayfish; nse
them as directed to ornament the roll of beef, and send to table
544. BRAIZED ROLL OF BEEF, A LA WINDSOR.
Braize the roll of beef perfectly tender, trim, glaze, and place it
on a dish; garnish round with alternate groups of stewed peas, and
potatoes—turned in the shape of large olives, and fried of a fine light
color in butter. Clarify and reduce the braize in which the beef
has been done, and with it sauce the beef round, reserving part to be
sent to table in a sauce-boat, to be hauded round with the beef
545. BRAIZED ROLL OF BEEF, A LA CLAREMONT.
Procure about eighteen pounds of sirloin of beef, cut square' from
the centre; bone and trim it, and then proceed to daube* the fillet and
upper part of the beef with tongue and the fillets of a pheasant, cut into
lengths of about four inches, and a quarter of an inch square in thick-
ness; roll the beef and secure its shape with string, place it in a
braizing-pan with the bones broken small, and the trimmings, three
carrots, four onions, celery, a garnished fagot of parsley and green
onions, four cloves, and two blades of mace; moisten with half -a
bottle of Sherry, and two glasses of brandy, and set the whole to
simmer on the stove-fire for about ten minutes; then add sufficient
broth from the stock-pot to nearly cover the beef, place a well-
buttered paper on it, cover the pan with its lid, and set the beef to
boil gently on a slow fire for about five hours—taking care that, when
the liquor has become somewhat reduced in quantity by boiling,
the beef should be frequently moistened on the exposed surface, by
being basted with the braize. When the beef is done, drain, trim,
glaze, and place it on a dish • pour round it a ragout a la Claremont,
consisting of a brown sauce, mixed with one-fourth part of brown
purie of onions and some thin scollops of truffles, mushrooms, and red
* To daube, is to lord or garnish the inner part of fowls, or any joints of meat, by in-
lening long strips of ham, bacon, &c, with the aid of a larding-pin.


188 REMOVES OF BEEF.
up the roll of beef, poor this sauce over it, at each end garnish with
macaroni dressed with Parmesan cheese, and at the flanks of the dish
place groups of Raviolis (No. 375) prepared for the purpose, and
send to table.
548. BRAIZED BOLL OF BEEF, A LA RICHELIEU.
Braize the roll of beef in exactly the same manner as directed for
beef d la Flamande (No. 539); when done, drain, trim, glaze, and
dish it up; garnish it round with glazed onions, and round the outer
circle of the well of the dish, place a border of quenelles of pheasant
(previously mixed with a little Soubise sauce), which, after being first
poached in the usual manner, are to be bread-crumbed and fried of a
light color; then sauce lightly with the essence in which the beef has
been braized (clarified and boiled down to the consistency of half glaze
for the purpose). Send some of the essence separately in a sauce-boat,
and serve.
549. BRAIZED ROLL OF BEEF, A LA DAUPHIKOISE.
Foe this purpose, the roll of beef should be braized sufficiently tender
to enable it to be cut with a spoon; it should be allowed to cool in
its own liquor, and when nearly cold, drained out carefully on to a
dish, trimmed and placed on a deep baking-dish, and then covered
over entirely with a coating of thick Soubise sauce, thickened with four
yelks of eggs: when the sauce has become firmly set on the beef by
getting cold, egg it over, and bread-crumb it twice; sprinkle a little
clarified butter over the surface of the beef; and about half an hour
before serving the dinner, set the beef thus prepared in a very hot
oven, that it may be baked of a fine light color; place it on its dish,
sauce it round with a brown Italian sauce (No. 12), and garnish it
with a border of tomatas prepared au gratin (No. 11 GO), and send to
table
550. BRAIZED ROLL OF BEEF, GABNISHED WITH GLAZED BOOTS.
Braize, trim, glaze, and dish the roll of beef up as directed for
Beef a la Flamande; garnish it round with young carrots, turnips,
and onions, turned and stewed in the usual manner, and placed in
alternate groups; sauce the beef with some Espagnole or Poiurade
sauce, and send to table.
551. BRAIZED BUMP OF BEEF.
This piece of beef is considered to be the best for braizing, and
should be chosen of fine quality for this purpose: rich grained, of a
deep bright-red color, and well covered with a thick coating of delicate-
looking fat. Bone the beef, and, after having trimmed it, secure its
shape with a string, and braize it as directed for braized rolls of beef,
following those instructions, according to the manner in which the
rump of beef is intended to be dressed; as, for instance, d la Flamande,
d la Printaniere, &c, &c, &c


189
BRAIZED AND ROAST FILLETS OF BEEF,
COMPRISING
Fillet of beef, d la Napolitaine.
„ d la Mactdoine.
„ d la Jardiniire.
„ with Chlvreuil sauce.
„ d I'Allemande.
., aw Ma(Ure.
Fillet of Beef, d la Milanaiie.
„ d I'Anglaut,
„ d la NivtrnaUt,
„ d la RoyaU.
„ d la ParitHnne.
„ d la ProvitgaU.
552. FILLET OF BEEF, A LA NAPOLITAINE.

Proojre a whole fillet of beef, and, with a thin-bladed knife, pare
off the sinewy skin which covers it, lard it closely in the usual manner,
and prepare it for braizing, as follows:—First, place the trimmings in
a narrow oblong braizing-pan on-the drainer, then put in the fillet and
garnish it round with carrot, celery, a couple of onions with two
cloves stuck in each, a fagot of parsley and green onions garnished
with thyme and bay-leaf, and two blades of mace; moisten with a
bottle of light white wine, cover the whole with a well-buttered paper,
put the lid on the pan, and set the fillet to boil gently on a slow fire,
with live embers on the lid, basting the fillet frequently with its own
liquor while braizing, which will require about two hours. Toward
the latter part of the time, glaze the larding with some thin, light-
colored glaze, and set the fillet in the oven to dry the larding, taking
care that it does not burn, or get too much colored. In the mean
time, strain off the braize, divest it of every particle of grease, and
clarify it; reduce it to one-third of its original quantity, and then add
a spoonful of good Espagnole sauce CNo. 3), two chopped shalots, half
a pot of red-currant jelly, and a spoonful of grated horse-radish; set
the whole to boil on the stove-fire for five minutes, after which pass


190 REMOVES OF BEEF
the sance throngh a tammy into a bain-marie. When about to servo
the dinner, place the fillet on a dish, and surronnd it with groups of
macaroni dressed with cheese, in the usual manner, some raviolis
(No. 375), tossed in a little glaze, and some sultana raisins stewed
for ten minutes in a little white wine; glaze the beef over, pour the
sauce round the fillet, on which, at each end, and at the centre, with
an ornamental skewer, fix a turnip, cut in the shape of a cup, (par-
boiled in salt and water colored with cochineal), and filled with
grated horse-radish, and send to table; observing that some of the
sauce should be sent in a sauce-boat separately.
553. FILLET OF BEEF, A LA MACEDOLNE.
Trim, lard, and prepare a fillet of beef according to the first part of
the preceding instructions ; moisten it with two ladlefuls of good stock,
and proceed to braize the fillet in exactly the same manner; when
done, glaze and dish it up. Garnish it round with groups of carrots,
turnips, French-beans, asparagus-heads, and buds of cauliflower—the
carrots and turnips to be turned or cat into the shape of small olives,
or cloves of garlic, the French-beans in the shape of diamonds; and
observe that each kind of vegetable should be separately prepared and
tossed in a little Bechamel or Allemande sauce, previously to being
placed round the fillet of beef. Sauce round the fillet with the clari-
fied and reduced braize in which it has been done, glaze the fillet, and
send to table.
554. BRAIZED FILLET OF BEEF, A LA JARDINIERE.
Braize a larded fillet of beef according to the foregoing instructions,
and when done, glaze and place it on its dish; garnish it round with
alternate groups of turned carrots and turnips, to which give the shape
of olives, round balls, diamonds, small half-moons, or any other suitable
fancy shape—all which must be previously boiled in broth, with a grain
of salt, a little sugar, and a small piece of butter. Intermixed with
these, place also some groups of green-peas, French-beans cut in dia-
monds, asparagus-heads, and buds of cauliflower. Sauce the fillet of
beef round with bright Espagnole sauce, mixed with some of the
essence in which the fillet has been braized (previously clarified and
reduced for this purpose), glaze the fillet and send to table.
555. BRAIZED FILLET OF BEEF, DRESSED AS CHEVREUIL.
(ROEBUCK.)
Procure part or a whole fillet of beef, as occasion may require,
remove the sinewy skin which covers the fat side, trim it neatly, and
lard it closely; then lay the fillet for a day or so to steep or pickle in
a pan containing a sufficient quantity of cold marinade (No. 234), pre-
pared for the purpose. Next, when the fillet has become saturated
with the marinade, drain it, and prepare it for braizing exactly in the
same manner as in any one of the preceding cases; moisten with a
bottle of Sherry, and braize the fillet of beef in the usual way; when
it is done, glaze it well, and place it on its dish. Garnish it round
with potatoes turned in the shape of large olives, and fried of a fine
light color in clarified butter; sauce the fillet round with a well-made
Chevreuil sauce (No. 69), with the addition of half the essence in which
the beef has been braized, and which, as usual, has been previously


FILLETS OF BEEF. 191
clarified and reduced to half glaze for the purpose; glaze the larding
and send to table. If preferred, the fillet may be roasted instead of
braized.
556. BRAIZED FILLET OF BEEF, A L'ALLEMANDE.
Prepare a fillet of beef in every respect according to the foregoing
directions, when doue, glaze and dish it up; garnish it round with
stewed sauer-kraul (No. 165), sauce it with Poiwade or Espagnole
sauce, and send to table.
The fillet of beef d VAllemande may also be garnished with stewed
prunes, quenelles of potatoes (No. 312), and sauced round with German
sweet sauce (No. 61).
557. BRAIZED FJLLET OF BEEF, WITH MADEIRA SAUCE.
Lard a fillet of beef, prepare it for braizing in the usual manner,
moisten it with a bottle of good Madeira, and then set the fillet to braize
gently on a slow fire; keep basting it frequently with its own liquor,
and when done, glaze it and place it on its dish. Garnish it round
with a Jardiniere (No. 143), a Macedoine (No. 144), or some nicely-
fried potatoes; clarify the whole of the liquor in which the fillet has
been braized, reduce it to the consistency of half glaze, and use it for
the purpose of saucing the fillet, and send to table.
558. BRAIZED FILLET OF BEEF, A LA MILANAISE.
Braize a larded fillet of beef in an oval braizing-pan garnished with
the usual quantity of vegetables, &c; moisten with a bottle of Sherry
or Malaga; when the beef is done, glaze and dish it up, and garnish it
round with macaroni prepared as follows:—Boil three-quarters of a
pound of macaroni, cut it into two-inch lengths, and put it into a stew-
pan containing some scollops of mushrooms, truffles, tongue, and the
fillets of one fowl; to these add a ragout-spoonful of Bechamel sauce
(No. 5), four ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, and a pat of butter;
season with a little grated nutmeg and minionette pepper, toss the
whole well together over the fire until well mixed, and use it as di-
rected. Sauce the fillet round with the essence (clarified in the usual
manner), and send the remainder to table in a sauce-boat, to be handed
round with the fillet of beef.
559. ROASTED FILLET OF BEEF, A L'ANGLAISE.
Procure a good thick fillet of beef, trim and lard it in the usual man-
ner, place it in a large earthen dish, strew over it carrot and onion cut
into thin slices, thyme, bay-leaf, and branches of parsley, some thin
slices of the pulp of a lemon, and a little minionette pepper; pour
about a gill of salad-oil over the whole, and allow the fillet of beef to
steep in this marinade for several hours—taking care to turn it over
occasionally, so that it may absorb a portion of the oil impregnated
with the flavor of the various ingredients contained in this kind of
marinade.
About an hour and a half before dinner, remove every particle of
vestable from the fillet of beef, run a strong-made iron skewer through
it lengthwise, fasten it on the spit by tying it with string at each end,
and then put it down to the fire to roast—basting it frequently; take
care that the fire is not too fierce, as in that case the larding will be


192
REMOVES OF BEEF.
scorched, which would spoil not only its appearance, but also injure
the flavor. Toward the last five minutes of the fillet's roasting, and
before it is taken up from the fire, glaze over the larding with some thin
light-colored glaze, twice or thrice, take it off the spit, and dish it up;
garnish it round with small turned potatoes, fried in clarified butter,
placing at each end a bouquet of scraped horse-radish; pour a bright
Financiere sauce round it (No. 8), glaze the fillet over afresh and send
to table.
560. BRAIZED FILLET OF BEEF, A LA N1VERKAISE.
Braize a larded fillet of beef according to the instructions given for
the fillet of beef d la Macidoine (No. 553); when done, glaze it
brightly, dish it up and garnish it round with a Nivernaise (No. 137),
and send to table.
561. BRAIZED FILLET OF BEEF, a" LA ROYALE.
Closely lard a thick fillet of beef, daube or interlard it with small
square fillets of lean ham, fat bacon, and truffles; prepare it for braizing
with the trimmings and the usual quantity of vegetables, &c, one or
two carcasses of game, and moisten with a bottle of Madeira. Set the
filjfit to simmer gently on a slow fire in the usual way, carefully basting
it occasionally with its liquor; when done, glaze it brightly, and after-
ward dish it up; strain off the braize, clarify and reduce it, then add it
',o a Financiere ragout (No. 188), with which garnish the fillet of beef;
place round it a border of large crayfish, whole truffles, and cock's-
combs, and send to table.
562. ROASTED FILLET OF BEEF, A LA PARISIENNE.
Roast a larded fillet of beef according to directions given for the
fillet of beef d PAnglaise (No. 559); when done, dish it up, and sur-
round it with alternate groups of green peas, and crayfish tails (tossed
in a little glaze and lobster coral butter, to make them of a bright
scarlet); sauce the fillet round with a rich Financiere sance (No. 8),
finished with some cravfish butter, and a little lemon-juice, and send to
table.
563. ROASTED FILLET OF BEEF, A LA PROVENCALE.
Steep a larded fillet of beef in the marinade as directed for the fillet
of beef a VAnglaise, adding to the ingredients therein mentioned, four
cloves of garlic and the pulp of an extra lemon; allow the fillet suffi-
cient time to become thoroughly saturated with the marinade; roast
it off, as before directed, glaze and dish it up, garnish it round with
tomatas au gratin (No. 1160), and pour round it some sauce d laPro-
vengale (No. 25), for making which, use the marinade in which the
fillet of beef has been pickled.
Note.—Fillets of beef may also be dressed plain, that is, without
being larded, as some dislike the mixture of fat bacon with beef. In
all other particulars, the directions for dressing braized rumps, rolls
or larded fillets of beef, are to be followed when dressing fillets plain.
For purposes of economy, the fillet of beef should be thus prepared for
braizing: trim the fillet as if intended to be larded, and then cover
the upper or smooth part with layers of beef-suet prepared for the


BOILED AND STEWED BRISKETS. 193
purpose, by taking some large pieces of suet and placing them between
a wet cloth, and with the cutlet-bat flatten them until they do not
exceed half an inch in thickness; fasten the layers on the fillet with
string, and for braizing the fillet, follow the directions given in the
foregoing dishes.
BOILED AND STEWED BRISKETS, EDGEBONES,
ROUNDS, AND RIBS OF BEEF,
COMPRISING
Boiled Brisket of Beef, d I'Anglaiie. Ribs of Beef, d la Chaiteur.
„ „ d I'Ecarlate. ,, d la PiemontaUe,
Stewed Brisket of Beef, d la t'lamaude. „ d la Mode. ,
EHgebone of Beef, d I'Anglaite. „ d la Bourgeoiie.
Bound of Beef, d I'Auglaite. „ <iu Madiire.
„ d la ChatseviT. „ d la Baden.
564. BOILED BRISKET OF BEEF, A l'ANGLAISE.
Procure a piece of brisket of beef, well covered with fat, and
which has been in salt about a week or ten days; wash the beef in
cold water, and then place it on a drainer in a large oval braizing-
pan ; garnish with three carrots, two large onions with two cloves stuck
in each, and two heads of celery; pour in sufficient cold water to fill
the pan nearly, and 6et it to boil on the fire. As the scum rises to
the surface, take it off with a spoon, arid when the beef has been
thoroughly skimmed, set the pan down by the side of the stove, to
continue gently boiling for about four or five hours—according to the
size and weight of the brisket; when the beef is done, take it up on
to an earthenware dish, trim, glaze, and then dish it up; garnish it
round with plaia boiled turnips and carrots, that have been neatly cut
into the shape of pears, eggs, or small fluted leaflike shapes; at each
end place a group of small suet dumplings, pour some gravy under
the beef, and send to table. Some Piquante sauce (No. 18), lightly
seasoned, should be served in a sauce-boat, to be handed round with
the beef.
565. BOILED BRISKET OF BEEF, A L'ECARLATE.
The brisket of beef, d VEcarlate, should be prepared according to
the foregoing instructions, in every respect—except the salting or
caring operation, which must be thus effected:
To six pounds of common salt, add four onces of saltpetre, half a
pound of moist sugar, some bruised bay-leaves, thyme, winter-savory,
and sweet-marjoram, a dozen cloves, and a few blades of mace: with
this mixture rub the piece of brisket of beef for a few minutes every
day—for four or five days running; after which, merely turn it over
in the brine once a day, for the succeeding five days—altogether
making up ten days for salting the beef. The brisket of beef is then
ready for use—provided it is to be eaten while hot; but if intended
to be eaten cold, the beef should remain in the brine at least a fort-
13


194 EEMOVES OF BEEF.
night, by which time only it can be expected to have sufficiently
absorbed the flavor of the herbs and spices.
The foregoing instructions apply equally to every kind of salted meat.
566. STEWED BRISKET OF BEEF, A LA FLAMANDE.
Pare off the breast-bone and rough parts adhering to a well-covered
piece of fresh brisket of beef; place it on the drainer of a large
braizing-pan, garnish with carrots, onions, celery, fagot of parsley,
green onions, thyme, and bay-leaf, six cloves, and two blades of mace;
moisten with sufficient good broth (from the boiling stock) to cover
the beef. Set the pan to boil gently for about five hours; when done,
drain the brisket on a dish, trim and place it on a baking-sheet, pour
a little broth under it, glaze it well and put it in the oven to dry, and
glaze it again; then place the brisket of beef on its dish, garnish it
round with alternate groups of turned carrots and turnips (boiled
down with consommi and a little sugar), Brussels-sprouts, and glazed
t onions; sauce the beef round with a well-finished Espagnole or Poivrade
sauce, and send to table.
Briskets of beef prepared in the foregoing manner, may also be
sent to table in every variety of method described for the preparation
of rolls of beef, as wells as rumps and fillets—in their various forms.
567. EDGEBONE OF BEEF, A L'ANGLAISE.
Procure a fine edgebone of beef well-covered with rich and delicate-
looking fat; take out the kernels, and salt it in the usual manner, by
merely rubbing the salt well into the meat; repeat this operation
every morning during four days, and then be careful that the beef is
turned over in its brine every morning for seven successive days: by
this time the edgebone of beef will be ready for use. Next, put it ou
in cold water, with a couple of carrots and turnips in the pot, and set
it to boil gently for about four hours: when done, drain it, trim off
the soiled parts of the fat, dish it up, and surround it with alternate
groups of well-turned carrots, turnips, summer cabbages, and small
suet dumplings; pour gravy under the beef, and send to table.
568. BOILED ROUND OF BEEF, A L'ANGLAISE.
Follow the foregoing directions in every particular—(observing
that a round of beef should remain ten days in the brine, and that the
time it will require for boiling must necessarily vary, according to the
weight of meat); in fact, dress the round of beef according to the
old English manner, garnishing it with the same sort of vegetables as
directed to be used for the edgebone, and send it to table with some
lightly-seasoned PiquarUe sauce, separately in a sauce-boat.
569. BOILED ROUND OF BEEF, A LA CHASSEUB, OR "HUNTING
BEEF."*
Cure a round of beef according to the directions given for salt-
• The apparently large quantity of ale required to dress a round of beef in this fashion
seems at first sight preposterously extravagant; but it should be borne in mind that this,
like others of the more expensive kind of dishes which are supposed to be indulged in
only by the wealthy, is in point of fact not so extravagant as it appears; inasmuch as
that the liquor in which the spiced beef has been boiled, serves to ameliorate the soup
which is now so bountifully supplied twice a week to the poor of the adjacent parishes,
by the generous owners of the noble mansions throughout the land.


BOILED AND STEWED BEEP. 195
mg a brisket d PEcarlaie', it will reqnire a fortnight or three weeks
thoroughly to impregnate the beef with the flavor of the herbs, spices,
4c. When the round of beef is sufficiently salted, put it on to boil
in home-brewed ale; as soon as it is done, dish it up with carrots,
turnips, baked Spanish onions, summer-cabbages, or Brussels-sprouts,
and small suet dumplings—the whole of these to be placed in groups
round the beef; pour some gravy under it, and send to table.
Rounds of beef prepared in the foregoing manner are more fre-
quently sent to table cold,—for breakfast and luncheon; especially
at Christmas time, when they are considered a desirable feature on the
sideboard.
570. STEWED BIBS OF BEEF, A LA CHASSEUR.
Procure three or four small ribs of beef well covered with fat, saw
off the spine bone close up to the rib-bones, and with the saw shorten
the rib-bones to about ten inches; then daube or interlard the lean
risrht through with fillets of fat bacon or ham, a quarter of an inch
square—seasoned with prepared herb-seasoning (No. 1250). Next,
cure the ribs of beef, as described for the preparation of the hunting-
beef, and when it is ready, wash the brine off in cold water, place the i
ribs of beef in a braizing-pan on a drainer, garnish with the bruised
carcasses of any sort of game, four carrots, four onions, three heads of
celery, and a well-garnished fagot, moisten with half a bottle of
8herry, and sufficient broth to cover the beef. Bet the pan on the fire
to continue gently boiling for about four hours: when the beef is done,
drain, trim, and glaze it, put it in the oven to dry the surface, and
glaze it again; then dish it up, garnish it round with glazed Spanish
onions, and carrots—turned in the shape of pears; sauce the ribs
of beef round with a well-finished Madeira sauce (No. 8), and send to
table.
It is usual to dress ribs of beef in this manner to be eaten cold;—
for this purpose it is necessary to allow them to cool in their own
braize, by which means they are materially benefitted, as they absorb a
considerable proportion of the essence—thereby acquiring both fluvor
and delicacy. When the ribs of beef are cold, take them out of their
braize, trim, glaze, and dish them up; surround them with a border of
bright aspic-jelly (to be made from the liquor in which the meat has
been braized), and send to table.
571. BRAIZED RIBS OF BEEF, A LA PIEMONTAISE.
Trim and daube with ham and truffles three small ribs of fresh beef;
prepare them for braizing with the trimmings, three carrots, three
onions, two heads of celery, a garnished fagot of parsley, six cloves,
two blades of mace, and two cloves of garlic; moisten with a bottle
of Sherry and a ladleful of broth; set the beef to boil very gently on
a slow fire—with live embers on the lid of the pan—for about four
hours, taking care to baste it frequently with its own liquor; when
the beef is done, drain, trim, and glaze, and keep it in the hot closet
for a few minutes; during this time, strain off the liquor in which the
beef has been braized, divest it of every particle of fat, clarify it, and
then add one-half to a pound of Naples macaroni, previously boiled in
water with a little salt and butter, for about ten minutes, and then
drained on a sieve, cut into three-inch lengths, and put into a stewpan


196 REMOVES OF BEEF.
with a pinch of minionette-pepper; then stew the macaroni for a
quarter of an honr longer, by which time it will be done; add a table-
spoonful of tomato-paste, two pats of fresh butter, and six ounces of
fresh-grated 'Parmesan cheese; toss the whole well together over the
fire, and place the ribs of beef on their dish; surround them with the
macaroni thus prepared, glaze the beef afresh, pour into a sauce-boat
the remaining half of the clarified braize reduced nearly to the con-
sistency of half glaze, and send to table.
572. SMALL BIBS OF BEEF, A LA MODE.
Prepare the ribs of beef for braizing according to the foregoing
instruction, moisten with half a bottle of Sherry or Madeira and
two wine-glassesful of brandy; then set the pan containing the ribs of
beef on the stove-fire to simmer for about a quarter of an hour; after
which add two ladlefuls of good consomme, cover the whole with a
buttered paper and the lid, and set the pan again on the fire to
continue gently simmering for three or four hours—according to
the weight or size of the piece of beef. When done, drain and trim
it, place it in a sauta-pan with a little of its own liquor, put it in the
oven to dry for a minute or two—previously to glazing it; unless, in-
deed, it has been already glazed during the latter part of the braizing,
which is the better method—frequent basting with its own liquor
imparting additional flavor; when glazed, dish the ribs of beef up,
and garnish them round with groups of glazed carrots, turnips, and
onions; sauce round with the essence in which the beef has been
braized, clarified and boiled down to the consistency of half-glaze fur
the purpose, and send to table.
573. SMALL BIBS OF BEEF, A LA BOURGEOISE.
Trim three small ribs of beef, daube and prepare them for braizing,
with their trimmings and the usual complement of vegetables, &c.;
moisten with two large ladlefuls of good broth; set the beef to boil
Tery gently on a slow fire till done, which will require about four hours
and a half, if the piece of beef be small; taking care to turn it over in
its brnize occasionally; when the ribs are done, drain, trim, and glaze
them; dish them up with a border of glazed carrots, onious, turnips,
Brussels-sprouts or stewed cahbages, round them; pour the essence on
them, and serve.
574. BRAIZED BIBS OF BEEF, WITH MADEIRA SAUCE.
Prepare the ribs of beef for braizing in the usual manner, moisten
with half a bottle of Madeira and a ladleful of good consomme; braize
the beef gently for abont four or five hours; when done, trim, glaze,
and dish it up with alternate groups of fried potatoes in the shape of
large olives, and any green vegetables the time of year may afford;
ose the clarified braize, reduced to an essence, as sauce, and send to
table.'
575. BBAIZED RIBS OF BEEF, A LA BADEN.
Trim and daube three small ribs of beef with some fillets of lean
ham and fat bacou; place tham in an oval braizing-pan, garnish with
Six shalots, a grated stick of horseradish, and a garnished fagot of
parsley and green onions; moisten with a bottle of llhenish wine


FILLETS OF VEAL. 197
and a single lndlefal of good strong broth, braize the beef gently on a
slow fire, with live embers on the lid of the pan, taking care to baste
the beef frequently with its own liquor; when done, glaze and dish it
op; strain the braize through a silk sieve into a stewpan, take off all
the fat, add a small pot of red-currant jelly, the grated rind of two
oranges, and the juice of four; reduce the whole to the consistency of
sauce, pour it round the beef, garnish with a border of quenelles of
pototoes (No. 312), glaze the beef afresh, and send to table.
Braized ribs of beef may also be sent to table in a Variety of other
form*; as, for instance, a I'Anglaise, a la Milanaise, a la Macedoine,
a la Boyale, &c, for which see Braized Rolls of Beef.
REMOVES OP VEAL,
COMPRISING
Roast Fillet of Veal, d I'Anglaiie. Cushion of Vea), d la Jardiniir*.
„ „ d la ilaeldoint. Roast Loin of Veal, d la JUonglat
,
„ „ d la Jardiniire. „ d la Dauphine. i
Bout Neck of Veal, d la Crime. „ „ d la Royale.
H „ d la Montmorency. „ „ d la Financiire.
„ „ d la Dreux. ., „ d la Crime.
„ „ d la If Uxellee. Breast of Veal, <i TAnglaite.
„ „ d I'Ecarlate. # d la Bouraeoite. *
„ „ d la Royale. „ d la Windsor.
Cushion of Veal, d la St. George. „ d la Financilre.
„ t, d la Financiire. „ d la Romaine.
„ „ d la Mactdoine. „ d la Royale.
576. BOAST FILLET OF VEAL, A L'AXGLAISE.
V«At, to be in perfection, should, if possible, be procured fresh
killed, as it does not improve either in flavor or color by being kept.
Take out the bone from a good fat fillet of veal, and with the cutlet-
bat, flatten the udder so as to lengthen it out; make a deep incision
between the udder and the fillet with a knife, and fill it with about
1 lb. of well-seasoned stuffing (No. 662); sew it up with Small twine,
wrap the udder tightly round the fillet, and secure its shape with
skewers and twine; spit the fillet in the usual manner, cover it well
with buttered thick white paper, roast it about two hours and a half;
just before it is done, take off the paper, and, after first shaking some
flour over it from a dredger, baste the veal with a little freslv butter,
and froth it; then dish it up, pour round it some light-brown sauce
incorporated with 4 oz. of fresh butter, some essence of mushrooms,
and a little lemon-juice, or else use No. 82: garnish round with potato
croquettes, and send to table.
677. ROAST FILLET OF VEAL, A LA MACEDOINE.
Roast a fillet of veal according to tho' foregoing directions, glaze
and dish it up, garnish it round with a Macedoine of such vegetables
the season of the year may affe'd; sauce round with Suprime or
Bechamel, and send to table


198 REMOVES OF VEAL.
578. BOAST FILLET OF VEAL, A LA JARDINIERE.
Prepare the fillet of veal as before described, dish it up, and gar-
nish it round with groups of turned carrots and turnips, small heads
of cauliflower, French-beans, cut into diamonds, green-peas, and as-
paragus-heads; sauce with half glaze, or a well-finished Espagnole
sauce, and send to table.
579., ROAST NECK OF VEAL, A LA CREME.
Procure a neck of white fat veal, saw off the scrag and spine-bones,
shorten the ribs to four inches in length, run a stout iron skewer
through the neck of veal, lengthwise, and then secure it on the spit
by tying it with string at each end; about an hour and a quarter be-
fore dinner, put it down to roast, baste it frequently, and about twenty
minutes before taking the veal oil' the spit, baste it with some good
Bechamel sauce, made with plenty of cream. As in course of roast-
ing the sauce dries on the veal, keep adding a fresh coating, until a
light-colored, delicate crust is produced all over the meat; then take
it off the spit with great care, in order that the crust may not be dis-
turbed; dish it up, pour a good cream Bichamel sauce (No. 6) under
it, garnish it round with groups of French-beans cut in diamonds and
buds of cauliflower, and send to table.
580. BRAIZED NECK OF VEAL, A LA MONTMORENCY.
Trim a neck of white veal, according to the directions given in the
preceding article; then, with a thin long-bladed knife, pare off the
skin and sinew which cover the fillet part of the neck, leaving the ribs
well covered; lard the part which has been trimmed aS closely and
neatly as possible, and prepare it for braizing as follows:
Strew the bottom of the drainer of an oval braizing-pan with three
carrots, three*onions, two heads of celery, and a garnished fagot;
cover the vegetables with thin layers of fat bacon, and then put in the
neck of veal; lay the trimmings round it, and moisten with two ladles-
ful of good veal stock; put a buttered paper on the top, cover with the
lid, upon which place live embers of charcoal, and set it to braize gently
on a slow fire, taking care to baste it frequently with its own liquor.
When it is done, which will require about three hours, glaze it brightly,
and dish it up ; garnish with a white ragout of small quenelles, truffles,
mushrooms, and cocks'-combs; then place round the ragout a border
of lambs' sweethreads, larded, and large quenelles of fowl, decorated
with tongue, and send to table.
581. NECK OF VEAL, A LA DREUX.
Trim a neck of veal, daube or interlard it through the fillet with
some truffles, tongue, and fat bacon; first cut these into three-inch
lengths, by a quarter of an inch square, and then introduce them into
the fillet part of the neck of veal, without showing through the skin
which covers it; it should then be braized according to the directions
in the foregoing article, and-when done, g.azed, and dished up. Gar-
nish with a white ragout of scollops of tongue and mushrooms, and
round this place a border of large crayfish, and glazed whole truffles j
glaze the neck of veal, and send to table.


NECK OF VEAL. 199
582. NECK OF VEAL, A LA D'UXELLES.
Prepare a neck of veal in every particular the same as described in
the foregoing article, braize it, and allow it partly to cool in its own
stock; drain, trim, and spread a coating of thickly-reduced d'Uxelles
sauce (No. 16) over it; when the sauce has become set, proceed to
bread-crumb the neck of veal in the usual manner with beaten egg and
bread-crumbs, observing that one-fourth part of grated Parmesan
cheese should be introduced into the bread-crumbs used for the
purpose. Place the neck of veal on a buttered baking-sheet, and
three-quarters of an hour before dinner-time, put it in the oven, and
bake it of a fine bright light-brown color: during this part of the
process, be careful to sprinkle a little clarified fresh butter over the
bread-crumbed surface of the veal, in order to prevent it from drying
or burning. When the neck of veal is doue, place it on a dish, garnish
round with a Toulouse ragout (No. 187), and send to table.
583. NECK OF VEAL, A LECARLATE.
Trim and lard a neck of veal in the usual manner, mark it for
braizing according to the instructions set forth for the preparation of
neck of veal a la Montmorency, and .braize it in a similar manner; dish
it up, garnish it round with a border of circular scollops of tongue
that have been glazed; sauce round with either Suprime, Allemande,
or Bechamel sauce, and send to table.
584. NECK OF VEAL, A LA ROYALE.
Trim and braize a neck of veal, and afterward let it get partially
cool in its own braize; drain it on an earthen dish, and mask it
entirely with a coaling of thick and well-seasoned Allemande sauce; as
boom as the sauce has become set upon the neck of veal, bread-crumb
it with ejrg and bread-crumbs, in which introduce a fourth part of
grated Parmesan cheese; place it on a buttered baking-dish, three-
quarters of an hour before dinner, and put it in the oven to bake.
When done, dish it up, garnish ronnd with a Toulouse ragout, surround
the whole with a border of quenelles, decorated with truffles, and large
crayfish; place a heart sweet-bread (decorated with pieces of the tip
of a tongue, cut into the shape of large hob-nails, and inserted in cir-
cular rows in the sweet-breads, previously to their being simmered in a
little white braize) at each end of the dish, glaze the crayfish lightly,
and send to table.
Note.—Necks of veal, either braized or roasted plain, or larded and
braized, may, in addition to the foregoing, be sent to table garnished
with a Macedoine of vegetables, a Jardiniere, potato croquettes, mush-
rooms, or tomatas au gralin (in the last two cases, the neck of veal
must be sauced with Espagnole, Poiorade, or brown Italian sauce), d
la Milanaise, a la Financiere, &c, &c
585. NOIX OR CUSHION OF VEAL, A LA ST. GEORGE.
The noix, or cushion, is that part of a leg of veal to which the udder
adheres. In order to separate it from the round, or fillet, the leg
should be placed on the table, with the knuckle from you, then with
the left hand, take hold of the upper part of the fillet of veal, and with
the right insert the point of a knife into the separation which divides


200 REMOVES OF VEAL.
the noix, or cushion, from the under part of the fillet; cut the noix
away, following the separation right through, round to the knuckle,
terminating at the left, under the udder, which must be left adhering
to the noix.
Pare off the sinewy parts from the noix, trim the udder without
reducing its size, and then, with a sharp pointed-knife, make a very
slight incision in a circular direction on the surface of the noix, round
the inner edge of the udder; next remove the outer part with a knife,
trimming it smooth and neatly; lard the trimmed part closely with fat
bacon, in the usual manner, and prepare the noix for braizing as fol-
lows :—First place at the bottom of a large fricandeau or oval stew-
pan, on the drainer thereof, some sliced carrots, a head of celery, two
onions, with a clove stuck in each, and a garnished fagot; cover the
whole with thin layers of fat bacon, and then put in the noix of veal;
surround it with the trimmings, and moisten with half a bottle of
Sherry or Madeira, and a sufficient quantity of good stock, barely to
reach the surface of the veal; cover with a well-buttered white paper,
and set it to boil on the stove; place the lid on the pan, and put it on
a slow fire, or in the oven, to braize gently for about four hours (with
live embers on the lid), remembering to baste the larding frequently
with the liquor, in order to moisten the veal and glaze it of a bright
color; the udder should be covered with thin layers of fat bacon, to
preserve its whiteness during the braizing. When the noix is done,
drain and glaze it, remove the layers of bacon, and dish it up; garnish
it round with groups of button-mushrooms, small quenelles of fowl
(colored with crayfish butter), cocks'-combs and kernels, and turned
truffles tossed in glaze; surround these with a border of lambs' sweet-
breads, one-half of which should be larded,.and the others, contises
with tongue, placed alternately; stick four silver skewers, each gar-
nished with a large double cocks'-comb, a large truffle, mushroom and
crayfish, into the noix, sauce with a rich Madeira sauce (No. 8), and
send to table.
586. NOIX OF VEAL, A LA FINANCIERE.
Prepare and braize a noix or cushion of veal in every respect the
same as the foregoing; the wine may, however, if thought proper, be
omitted; when the noix is done, glaze and drain it, dish it up, pour a
rich Financiere ragout (No. 188) under it, garnish round with a
border of quenelles and crayfish, and send to table.
587. NOIX OF VEAL, A LA MACEDOINE.
Prepare the noix of veal as in the foregoing cases, dish it up, garnish
it with a Macedoine of carrots, turnips, green-peas, asparagus-heads
and cauliflower-buds, tossed in some good Allemande sauce-, with a
pinch of sugar, and the glaze produced from the small carrots and
turnips, place round these a border of small artichoke-bottoms, filled
alternately with green-peas, small carrots,and turnips; glaze the larded
part of the noix, and send to table.
. 588. NOIX OF VEAL, A LA JARDINIERE.
The noix, or cushion of veal, must be first trimmed, larded, and
braized, according to the directions given for the noix a la Financiere;
when done, dish it up, and garnish it round with a Jardiniere, or garnish


LOIN AND BEEAST OF VEAL. 201
of small roots and vegetables, composed as follows :—Turn some earrota
and turnips in the shape of either small olives, diamonds, corks, or
cloves of garlic, &c, and boil them separately in consomme with a very
small piece of fresh batter, a pinch of sugar, and a grain of salt, ob-
serving that the turnips must be kept white, and that the carrots should
be boiled down and rolled in their glaze : prepare also some small heads
of cauliflower, green peas, French-beans cut into diamonds, asparagus-
heads, and small new potatoes; place these vegetables round the noix,
in alternate groups, sauce with an Espagnole sauce, or else with the
essence in which the noix has been braized,—first clarified, then re-
duced to half glaze, and added to a well-finished Espagnole sauce;
glaze the larded part of the noix, and send to table.
In addition to the foregoing methods of dressing noix, or cushions
of veal, for the table, they may, after being first prepared and braized
(either larded or stuck with circular rows of truffles, cut in the shape of
Large hob-nails, and inserted in the semicircular lean part of the noix),
be served with a Napolitain, Milanese, or Chipolata ragout, with
tomatas ou gratin, potato croquettes, and sauced with Bechamel
sance, with stewed peas, or asparagus-peas, tossed in a little Allemande
sauce, with a pat of butter, a pinch of sugar, and a little nutmeg.
589. BOAST LOIN OF VEAL, A L'ANGLAISE.
Order a loin of veal to be cut without the chump end, and with
the skirt left on; trim it square, and placing the veal stuffing (No.
662) in an incision made in the flap part for that purpose, wrap the
flap, or skirt-piece, round tight, so as to secure the kidney-fat; fasten
it with skewers and string, cover it with two sheets of buttered paper,
to be tied on with string, and place the loin of veal in a cradle-spit to
roast; or a common spit may be used. If the loin of veal be of the
usual size, weighing about 10 lbs., it will require about two hours and
a half to roast it; when nearly done, take off the paper, shake some
flour over it with a dredger-box, and afterward froth it over with 4 oz.
of fresh butter, previously put to melt in a spoon, in the dripping-pan,
before the fire; as soon as the veal has acquired a fine light color,
and the butter and flour have frothed up, take it off the spit, and
dish it up: pour some brown melted butter under it (No. 32), and
■end to table
590. ROAST LOIN OF VEAL, A LA MONGLAS.
Roast off a loin of veal, according to the foregoing directions: next,
with a sharp knife, make an incision two inches deep along the sides
and ends of the loin, and endeavor to cut out the square piece with-
out tearing the meat, the joint resembling an oblong case. The fillet
thus taken out, should be cut into thin round scollops, and put into a
stew pan with an equal quantity of scollops of tongue and mushrooms:
to these add a ragout spoonful of good Bechamel sauce, and with this
mixture fill the loin of veal, previously put on a buttered baking-
sheet; smooth the top over with the blade of a knife, and cover the
whole with very fine bread-crumbs, fried with butter, of a light color,
and mixed with a third part of Parmesan cheese; sprinkle a little
melted fresh butter over it, and set it in the oven to get hot, salamander
it over and dish it up; garnish with a white Toulouse ragout (No. 187),
and place round a border of croquettes of veal, or sweethread : at each


202 REMOVES OF VEAL.
t
corner of the loin stick an ornamental silver skewer purnished with a
large cock's-comb, mushroom, decorated quenelle, crayfish, and truffle;
glaze the sides of the loin of veal, and send to table.
591. LOIN OF VEAL, A LA DAUPHINE.
Procure a loin of very white veal, cut square, with the whole of
the flap, or skirt, left on; bone it entirely, taking care, at the same
time, to divest it of every portion of sinew ; daube or interlard the lean
part of the fillet with small fillets of tongue, or ham: the veal must
then be laid square on the table, and with some quenelle force-meat of
chickens (mixed with chopped parsley and mushrooms), spread the
whole of the inner part about an inch thick; the kidney and fat
should then be replaced in the centre, the loin rolled up tight, and
its pillowlike shape be secured with small iron skewers, and fastened
with string. Then put it in a large oval braizing-pan, on the drainer;
garnish with the trimmings, a couple of carrots, onions, celery, and
garnished fagot of parsley and green onions, two blades of mace, and
four cloves; moisten with two large ladlesful of good consomme, cover
with an oval of double paper, well-buttered, put the lid on, and then
set the pan to boil on the stove-fire; after which, put it to braize in
the oven, or on a slow fire, with live embers on the lid; baste the veal
frequently with its own liquor, and when it is done, drain, trim, and
mask it all over with a coating of the following mixture :—To six yelks
of eggs, add 2 oz. of fresh butter, melted, and two tablespoonsful of
Bechamel sauce, season with nutmeg, pepper, and salt, mix this well
together, and use it as directed above. Cover the whole with very
fine bread-crumbs, mixed with a third proportion of grated Parmesan
cheese, sprinkle some drops of melted, or oiled butter, over it, and
placing the loin of veal on a buttered baking-sheet, put it in the oven
to bake of a light-brown color; when done, dish it up, pour round it
a Parisian ragout (No. 203), and garnish with a border of quenelles of
veal, or fowl, decorated with truffles, and seud to table.
592. LOIN OF VEAL, A LA ROYALE.
Prepare and braize a loin of veal, as directed in the preceding
article; when done, allow it partially to cool in its own braize, then
strain it on the drainer of the braizing-pan, and absorb any grease
there may be on it with a clean napkin; cover it all over with a
quenelle farce of veal, mixed with a little lobster coral; decorate the
ends and centre with a bold design, using for the purpose some black
truffles, in order that the decoration may show well on the scarlet
surface. Next, place the loin of veal in a large oval braizing-pan with
just sufficient consomme to bathe it, to the depth of an inch, cover the
loin with very thin layers of fat bacon, or, in lieu thereof,'* well-
buttered oval covering of paper; set it in the oven, or on a moderate
stove-fire, with live embers on the lid, to boil or simmer g»ntJy for
about three-quarters of an hour, when it will be doue. Tui*a drain
the veal, and divest it of the bacon or paper- used to cover it; pour
round it a ragout of button-mushrooms, small quenelles of fowl, cock's-
combs and kernels; garnish with a border of large truffles and cray-
fish, glaze the loin of veal with thin, light-colored glaze, and send to
table.
Note.—This remove may also be decorated with ornamental skewers


BREAST OF VEAL. 203
garnished with a piece of ml tongue, cat in the shape of a eoek's-comb,
a large double white cock's-comb, a mushroom, and a red quenelle,
ornamented with truffle.
593. ROAST LOIN OF VEAL, A LA FINANCIERE.
Procure a loin of venl, cut square without the chump, and with the
flap, or skirt, left on; bone it carefully, truss it tightly in the shape of
s pillow, and after first laying the fillet bare, by paring off the whole
of the skin and sinew which covers it, lard it closely, as you would a
fricandeau. When the loin is so far prepared, get it ready for braiz-
ing in a large oval braizing-pan, with carrot, onion, celery, garnished
fagot, two blades of mace, and four cloves; moisten with two ladlesful
of good stock, cover with an oval of paper, well-buttered, place the lid
on the pan with live embers on it, and then set the veal to braize gently
on the fire, taking care to baste it frequently with its own liquor.
When done, drain, glaze, and dish it op; pour round it a rich brown
Financiere ragout (No. 188), garnish with a border of plain quenelles,
and crayfish, and send to table.
594. ROAST LOIN OF VEAL, A LA CREME.
To prepare this, follow the directions given for dressing neck of veal
a la Creme (No. 579); garnish in the same manner, and send to table.
595. ROAST BBEAST OF TEAL, A L'ANGLAISE.
First take the tendons out of the breast of veal intended to be
dressed, and reserve them for an entree; then bone it completely, cut
the ends square, and trim it; place about 1 lb. of well-seasoned veal-
stuffing (No. 662) along the centre of the inner part, roll the veal up
tight, so as to secure the stuffing in the middle; fasten it with string
and small skewers. About an hour and a half before dinner-time, spit
the breast of veal, cover it with buttered paper, and put it down to roast;
when done, dish it up, pour round it either some brown meited butter
(No. 82), light Espagnole sauce, or Bechamel, and send to table.
596. BREAST OF VEAL, A LA BOURGEOISE.
Bone, trim, and roll a breast of veal, according to the preceding in-
structions; prepare it an oval stewpan, with 4 oz. of. fresh butter, and
set it to simmer on a moderate fire, until it becomes colored all over;
then add a garnished fagot of parsley and green onions, moisten with
a large ladleful of good stock, and put it to braize gently on the stove-
fire, or in the oven; half an hour after, add two dozen small carrots,
nicely turned, and in another half hour, add as many heads of middle-
sized onions, a pinch of sugar, and a little salt. When the veal is done,
take it up, and after taking away the strings and skewers, put it on a
baking-sheet in the oven and glaze it; dish it up, garnish round with
the glazed carrots and onions, and after removing all the fat from the
surface of the stock, or essence of the veal, and reducing it down to
the consistency of half-gluze, use it to sauce the breast of veal, and
send to table.
597. BREAST OF VEAL, A LA WINDSOR.
Bone and trim a breast of veal, lay it on the table, and after spread-
ing the inner part with quenelle force-meat of veal or rabbits, at least


204 REMOVES OF VEAL.
an inch thick, place some square fillets of boiled tongue lengthwise,
and between the fillets of tongue put some pieces of black truffles, cut
square to match the size of the pieces of tongue; then roll up the breast
of veal carefully, secure its shape with the aid of small iron skewers and
string, and to prevent the force-meat from escaping, cover the ends with
layers of fat bacon. Put the veal thus prepared into an oval braizing-
pan, with the trimmings and the usual complement of roots, &c, mois-
ten with two ladlcsful of good stock, and set it to braize gently on a
slow fire; when done, drain, glaze, and dish it up, garnish round with
French-beans cut in diamonds—which, after being boiled green, must
be dressed with a spoonful of Bechamel sauce, a little minionette-pep-
per, nutmeg, salt, fresh butter, and lemon-juice; round these place a
border of young carrots nicely glazed, and send to table.
The braize in which the breast of veal is done should be divested of
grease and clarified, and after being reduced to half glaze served sepa-
rately in a sauce-boat.
598. ROAST BREAST OF VEAL, A LA FINANCIERE.
Trim, stuff, and truss a breast of veal as directed for the preparation
of a breast of veal a VAnglaise, roast it off in the same manner, dish it
up, and surround-it with a rich Financiere ragout (No. 188), and send
to table.
599. ROLLED BREAST OF VEAL, A LA BOMAINE.
Prepare a breast of veal as for a la Windsor, and braize it accord-
ingly; when done, glaze and dish it up, garnish it with lasagnes (No.
265) prepared as macaroni, surround the whole with a border of rice
croquettes, made with rice boiled in consomme, and to which should be
added a little Allemande sauce, grated Parmesan cheese, nutmeg, and
rainionette pepper; and when the preparation is cold, mould the cro-
quettes according to taste, bread-crumb and fry them of a light color,
and use them as directed. Send the remove to table, accompanied with
a sauce-boat containing Sicilian sauce (No. 60).
600. ROLLED BREAST OF VEAL, A LA ROYALE.
Fob this preparation, follow the directions given for loin of veal d la
Boyale.
Note.—In addition to the foregoing methods of preparing breasts of
veal for the table, they may, after being either roasted or bruized, also
be garnished with a Jardiniere or Macedoine of vegetables, with stewed
peas, or with a ragout a la Claremont, a la Toulouse, a la Chipolala,
&c. &c, as convenience or fancy may suggest.


205
REMOVES OF LEGS, LOINS, AND NECKS OF MUTTON
COMPRISING
Boiled Leg of Mutton, d I'Anglniie. Nooks of Mutton, A I'Anglaitt.
Braized „ with roots. „ d I'Mandaite.
n „ d la Provencale. „ d la Jardiniire.
„ „ d la Soubiee. „ larded with Poivrad•
„ „ d la Bretonne. sauce.
„ „ d la Jardiniire. n d I'AHemnnde.
Braized Saddle of Mutton, d la 3facfdoine. „ d la Soubiee.
601. BOILED LEG OF MUTTON, A L'ANGLAISE.
Select a leg of Southdown mutton, rather fat, and not kept above
three or four days; trim it, and put it on to boil in a stock-pot or
braizing-pan, filled up with cold water; when it boils, remove the
scum, and put it on the side of the stove to continue gently boiling
for about two hours and a half: a handful of salt and a couple of
turnips and carrots should be put into the pot to boil with the leg.
When the mutton is done, drain and dish it up, garnish it round with
mashed turnips, dressed with a little sweet cream, a pat of butter,
pepper and salt:- mould the mashed turnips in the shape of large
eggs—with a table-spoon, and place these closely round the leg of
mutton, introducing between each spoonful of mashed turnips, a
carrot nicely turned, that has been boiled, either with the mutton, or
in some broth separately: pour some gravy under it, put a paper
ruffle on the bone, and send it to table, accompanied with a sauce-boat
full of caper-sauce (No. 91).
602. BRAIZED LEG OP MUTTON, GARNISHED WITH ROOTS.
Trim a leg of Southdown or Scotch mutton, interlard it with fillets
of ham or bacon cut a quarter of an inch square and about six inches
long, seasoned with pepper and salt, a little grated nntmeg and some
chopped parsley; pare off the ends of ham, &c, and place the leg of
mutton in an oval braizing-pan with two carrots, a head of celery, a
couple of onions, four cloves, and two blades of mace; moisten with
a glass of brandy, and two large ladlefuls of fresh stock, cover with
an oval buttered paper and put on the lid; then set the braizing-pan
on the fire to boil gently for about four hours, from time to time
moistening the mutton with its liquor, and keeping a continual supply
of live embers on the lid of the pan. When done, take it up on to a
deep baking-sheet, with a little of its own liquor, and put in the hot
closet till wanted. In the mean time, strain off the braize, divest it
of all the fat, clarify it in the usual manner, and when strained, reduce
it to the consistency of half glaze, and set it aside in a small bain-marie.
Then glaze the leg of mutton nicely, and place it on its dish; garnish
it round with alternate groups of young carrots and turnips turned
and boiled in broth as usual, for the purpose, and afterward boiled
down in their own glaze, also some glazed young onions; pour the
clarified essence under the leg of mutton, put the ruffle on the bone,
and send to table.


206 REMOVES OF MUTTON.
603. BRAIZED LEG OF MUTTON, A LA PROVENCALE.
Bone a leg of four-year old mutton, commencing at the thigh bone,
by detaching the meat from round it with a knife, and throwing it
back right up to the joint of the leg-bone; then cut the sinewy liga-
tures, and remove the thigh-bone entirely; saw off the shank and
scrape the end of the bone remaining in the leg as in preparing a
cutlet. Then interlard the interior with seasoned lardoons or fillets
of ham or fat bacon, introduce the Provengale stuffing (described below),
and sew the hollow opening whence the bone has been extracted, with
small twine; place the leg of mutton in a braizing-pan with carrots,
turnips, celery, six cloves, two blades of mace, two garnished fagots,
and six cloves of garlic ; moisten with half a bottle of Sherry, and two
large ladlefuls of good fresh stock, cover with an oval of buttered
paper and the lid; set the pan on the stove to boil, and then put it
on a small stove-fire, with live embers on the lid, and allow it to con-
tinue gently simmering for about four hours; taking care to moisten
it frequently with its own liquor. When it is done, take it up on to
a baking-sheet with some of its own liquor, and set it in the hot closet
for a few minutes. Strain the remainder of the liquor through a
sieve, and remove all the fat, clarify it, strain the essence through a
napkin, and reduce it to half glaze, and'add it to some Gasconne sauce
(No. 68). Then dish up the mutton, garnish it round with tomatas
or mushrooms dressed au gratin (No. 1160), pour the Gasconne sauce
under the remove, and send to table.—The Provengale stuffing for the
leg of mutton is to be made as follows:
Chop half a pottle of mushrooms very fine, and put them into a
small stewpan; to these add some chopped parsley and shalot, with
an equal quantity of grated lean and fat ham, and a little grated
lemon-peel: season with pepper, salt, and nutmeg; set the whole on
the fire and stir it with a. wooden spoon for five minutes, that the
watery parts of the mushrooms may evaporate; add the yelks of four
eggs, and after setting the yelks of eggs in the fine-herbs, by stirring
the whole on the fire, add them to some quenelle force-meat made with
the fillets of a partridge, mix these well together, and use the stuffiug
as directed above.
604. BRAIZED LEG OF MUTTON, A LA SOUBISE.
Bone a leg of mutton, and lard it as in the foregoing case, stuff it
with some quenelle force-meat, made with game, and secure the stuffing
with twine. Then prepare the leg of mutton for braizing with a
couple of carrots and onions, a head of celery, and garnished fagot, four
cloves, and two blades of mace; moisten with two large ladlesful of
common stock, cover these with buttered paper, then put on the lid,
and set it on a moderate fire to braize gently for about fuur hours:
taking care to moisten it frequently with its liquor. When the
mutton is braized perfectly tender, take it up on to a baking-sheet
with some of the liquor in which it has been braized, and put it in the
oven to finish glazing. In the mean time strain off and clarify the
remainder of the liquor, and keep it in a small bain-marie; and after
having glazed the mutton brightly, dish it up on a bed of well-made
Soubise puree of ouion (No. 119), garnish round with potato croquettes,
and send to table.


BRAIZED LEG AND^SADDLE OF MUTTON. 207
The clarified essence, after being reduced to half glaze, should be
sent to table in a sauce-boat to be served with the mutton when
carved; if poured round the mutton, it would mix with the tioubise
sauce.
605. BRAIZED LEG OF MUTTON', A LA BRETONNE.
Prepare and braize a leg of mutton as directed in the foregoing
case; when done, glaze and dish it up on a bed of white haricdt-be&ns
dressed a la Bretonne (No. 1186); garnish it round with a border of
potatoes cut in the shape of large olives, and fried in butter, of a
light color; ornament the bone with a paper ruffle, and send to table.
'606. BRAIZED LEO OF MUTTON, A LA JARDINIERE.
Bone and braize a leg of mutton according to the preceding direc-
tions; and when done, glaze and dish it up; garnish it round with
alternate groups of prepared small carrots, turnips, cauliflowers,
French beans cut in diamonds, small new potatoes, cucumbers, aspara-
gus-heads, and green peas—the whole, or any part of these, according
to the season. Pour round the mutton some Espagnole sauce in
which has been incorporated, after reduction, the clarified essence in
which the mutton has been braized; put on a ruffle, and send to table.
Note.—In addition to the foregoing garnishes for braized legs of
mutton, they may also be appropriately served with new potatoes a la
Maitre d'Hotel, fresh haricdt-beana, stewed peas, and a border of
young carrots glazed, artichoke bottoms cut in quarters, and tossed
in Allemande sauce, or with a Macedoine of vegetables (No. 143).
607. BRAIZED SADDLE OF MUTTON, A LA MACEDOINE.
Procure a well-covered saddle of mutton, and extract the spine-
bone with the knife, without injuring the fillets, or perforating any
part of the fat which covers them; trim the tail end quite round, cut
the flaps square, season the inner part of the saddle with pepper and
salt, and having rolled up each flap or skirt piece, so as to give it a
tight and neat appearance, secure its shape by passing some string
round it several times. After this, the mutton should be prepared
for braizing with carrots, onions, celery, garnished fagots, cloves, and
□ace; moisten with a sufficient quantity of good stock, to merely
cover the mutton; place a buttered paper and the lid over all, set the
braizing-pan on a moderate fire, and after it has boiled, let it continue
gently braizing for about four hours—carefully basting it frequently
with its own liquor. When it is done, take it up on to a baking-sheet,
and pat it in the oven to dry the moisture from the surface, prepara-
tory to its being glazed; then dish it up, and garnish it round with
prepared small vegetables, snch as carrots, turnips, cauliflowers,
French-beans, cucumbers, asparagus-heads, small new potatoes, and
green-peas: each separately tossed in a little Allemande sauce (after
being first prepared in the usual manner, and* the carrots and turnips
boiled down in their glaze, as also the cucumbers), pour some Alle-
mande sauce round the saddle of mutton, and send to table.
Note.—Instead of saucing this remove with Allemande, Espagnole


208
REMOVES OP MUTTON,
r
may be nsed, if preferred, or even the clarified and reduced essence in
which the mutton has been braized; but it is essential that the vegeta-
bles intended to be used for garnishing should be dressed with AUe~
mande or Bechamel sauce.
Saddles of mutton prepared and braized according to the foregoing
instructions may also be sent to table in all the varieties described for
braized legs of mutton.
608. BOILED NECKS OF MUTTON, A L'ANGLAISE.
Saw off the scrag of two necks of mutton, and shorten the rib-bones
to four inches in length; next, detach the spine-bone from the fleshy
part of the neck, and afterward saw off the whole of the spine adhering
to the base of the ribs; pare the fat smooth, and about two hours
before dinner-time, put them on to boil in a stewpan with water, a
little salt, and two or three carrots and turnips. When they are done,
dish them up so as that the uncovered ends of the rib-bones may fall
in between each other—representing a chevaux-de-frize. Garnish
round with mashed turnips, and with turned carrots, between each
spoonful of the mashed turnips, or else placed round in a row.
Send two sauce-boats filled with gravy and caper-sauce (No. 91).
609. BRAIZED NECK OP MUTTON, A L'lBLANDAISE.
Trim two necks of mutton as directed in the previous article, put
them to braize in an oval stewpan with carrot, onion, celery, and gar-
nished fagot; moisten with common stock, and put them to boil on the
stove; after which set them by the side of a moderate fire, and while
the necks of mutton are being braized, turn two or three dozen pota-
toes in the shape of small eggs, and place them in a stewpan with half
a dozen small onions; season with pepper and salt, jnoisten with a
ladleful of broth, and put them on a moderate fire to boil gently:
taking care that the potatoes are kept as whole as possible, although
they must be thoroughly boiled. When the necks of mutton are done,
take them up, trim them, if necessary, and dish them up as directed
in the foregoing article; strain the broth in which the mutton has
been boiled, remove all the grease from its surface, and reduce it to
half glaze: add part of it to the potatoes, and with these garnish the
necks of mutton round neatly, pour the essence under, glaze them, and
send to table.
610. BRAIZED NECK OF MUTTON, A LA JARDINIERE.
Trim two necks of mntton, and prepare them for braizing with car-
rot, onion, celery, fagot, four cloves, and two blades of mace; moisten
with two iadlesful of stock, cover with an oval piece of buttered paper,
and the lid; put them to braize gently on a moderate fire for about
two hours and a half: when done, glaze and dish them up, giving them
an appearance of chevaux-de-frize; garnish them round with a well-
prepared Jardiniere of every variety of small vegetables in season,
sauce them with Espagnole sauce, and send to table.
611. BRAIZED NECKS OF MUTTON LARDED—AS ROEBUCK, WITH
POIVRADE SAUCE.
For the preparation of this remove, it is necessary that the necks
of mutton be trimmed as directed for braizing, and afterward that


NECKS OF MUTTON. 209
the upper part of the fillet be laid bare without loosening it from the
bones; they must then be larded closely as a frican'deau, and put to
steep in a cold marinade (No. 234), for at least twenty-four hours. It
will be readily understood that this must be attended to a day before
the necks of mutton are required to be used. Trim, lard, and marinade
the necks of mutton as directed; and then prepare them for braizing
in the following manner:—Place the necks of mutton in an oval
braizing-pan on the drainer, garnish with carrot, onion, celery, gar-
nished fagot of parsley, &c, four cloves and two blades of mace;
moisten with some light wine mirepoix (No. 236), or in lieu thereof,
use half a pint of Sherry or Madeira, and a large ladleful of stock;
cover the necks of mutton with an oval piece of buttered paper, and
set them to boil on the stove-fire; after which put the lid on the pan,
and set the braizing-pan on a moderate fire with live embers on the
lid, to continue gently boiling for about two hours; taking care to
baste the larded necks frequently with their own liquor. When done,
take thein up on to a small baking-dish with a little of their own broth,
and put them in the oven that the larding may dry for a minute or two,
then glaze and dish them up; garnish them round with a border of
potatoes turned in the shape of large olives, corks, or balls, and fried
in clarified butter; pour some Poivrade sauce (No. 29), under them,
and send to table.
612. NECKS OF MUTTON, LARDED AND BRAIZED, A L'ALLEMANDE.
Trim, lard, and prepare for braizing, two necks of mutton, as directed
in the preceding article; and about two hours before dinner-time, set
them on the fireto braize in the usual manner. When done, glaze and
dish them up, surround them with alternate groups of quenelles of
potatoes, and prunes stewed in red wine; pour some German sweet
saace (No. 61) under them, and send to table.
613. NECKS OF MUTTON LARDED, A LA SOUBISE
Trim and lard two necks of mutton, prepare them for braizing with
carrot, onion, celery, garnished fagot of parsley, three cloves, and two
blades of mace; moisten with a large ladleful of good stock, cover
them with an oval piece of buttered paper as well as the lid of the
brazier: set them on s moderate fire to braize gently for about an
hour and a half; when done, glaze, and dish them up (having pre-
viously poured in the dish a rich puree of onions d la Soubise No. 119),
place a border of potato croquettes round them, and send to table.
Note.—Larding may be dispensed with, when considered objection-
able, without deteriorating much from the excellence of any of the
foregoing methods of dressing necks of mutton. It is, however,
generally regarded as a proper characteristic of these dishes. In
addition to the above methods for garnishing braized necks of mutton,
they may also be finished by placing round them a garnish of stewed
peas, asparagus, glazed young carrots and turnips, sauer-kraut, baked
tomatas, or Lyonnaise tomatas, or Piquante sauce.
13


210
REMOVES OF LAMB,
COMPRISING
Baron of Lamb, d la Montmorency. Saddle of Lamb, d la Oodard.
„ d la Printaniire. „ d la Financiirt.
„ d la Jardinilre. „ d la Royalc.
„ d la Maitre d'HStel. „ d la Mncfdoine.
Hind-Quarters of Lamb. „ d la Milanaiee.
Saddle of Lamb, d la Dauphine.
614. BARON OF LAMB, A LA MONTMORENCY.
Procure the hind quarters of a fine fat lamb, take off the transparent
skin which covers the fat of the saddle, and with the point of a small
knife, make a slight incision, in an oval form, all over the surface of
the upper part of the legs; and afterward with a sharp thin-bladed
knife, pare oft" the skin, so as to leave the plaee bare; this will give to
the surface of each leg, the appearance offricandeaux prepared for
larding. Then saw off the shank bones, as well as the projecting part
of the spine bone; cut off the tail, and truss the skirts neatly up with
small skewers. Next, place the baron on the spit for roasting, and be
careful to cover it with buttered white paper. Two hours and a half
before dinner, put the Iamb down to the fire to roast, and about ten
minutes before it is done, take off the paper; and after allowing the
larding to get lightly colored, glaze it well over, then take it off the
spit, and dish it up; garnish it round with groups of button mush-
rooms, truffles, fine white cocks'-combs, and scollops of red tongue;
round the whole place a border of epoon-quenelles decorated with
truffles, and a lamb's sweethread larded between each quenelle; sauce
with good Allemande sauce; glaze the lamb brightly, and send to
table.
615. BARON OF LAMB LARDED, A LA PRINTANIERE.
Trim, lard, and roast a baron of lamb according to the directions
contained in the foregoing article; dish it up, pour round it some
Printaniere sauce (No. 21), garnish it with groups of small new
potatoes first partly boiled, and afterward fried of a light color in
clarified butter, glaze the lamb all over, and send to table.
616. BARON OF LAMB, A LA JARDINIERE.'
Prepare and roast the baron of lamb according to the preceding
directions; and when dished up, garnish it round with a rich and
varied Jardiniere of snch vegetables as are in season; sauce the lamb
round with Espagnole sauce, and send to table.
617. BARON OF LAMB, A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL.
Prepare the baron of lamb as previously directed, dish it up and
pour round it a rich Maitre d'Hdtel sauce (No. 43); garnish it round
with alternate groups of small buds of cauliflowers, and fried olive-
shaped potatoes; glaze the lamb well, and send to table.


SADDLE OF LAMB. 211
Note.—Hind-quarters of lamb should be dressed in the same manner
as barons of lamb, and may therefore be garnished with every sort of
sauce and parnish used for the latter.
When the larding is dispensed with, the whole of the fat as a matter
of course should be retained on the surface of the lamb, to protect the
meat from losing its juices, and consequently render it unfit for table.
618. SADDLE OF LAMB, A LA DAUPHINE.
Select a moderate-sized saddle of lamb, bone it, and having 'aid it
on the table, season the inside with pepper and salt, and line it with
some quenelle force-meat of veal or fowl, about an inch in thickness,
placing on the force-meat some fillets of tongue and truffles, after which,
fold the skirts of the saddle over—so as to encase the force-meat, &c,
thereby giving it a plump appearance; and in order to secure its
shape, bind it in a napkin on which butter has been spread: when the
saddle of mutton is rolled up tightly in it, tie the ends with twine.
Then place the saddle so prepared on the drainer of an oval braizing-
pan, cover it with the bones and trimmings; garnish with carrot,
onion, celery, garnished fagot of parsley, four cloves, and two blades
of mace; moisten with sufficient good stock to cover the lamb, and set
it to braize gently on a moderate fire for about two hours and a half.
When the lamb is done, place it on an earthen dish, untie the ends of
the napkin, and fold the saddle up tightly, and smooth it in again;
fasten the ends as before, and put it in press between two dishes until
it is nearly cold. Then take the lamb out of the napkin, trim it neatly,
and cover it over with a coating of well-seasoned reduced Allemande
sauce, which must be allowed to set, afterward being egged over, and
then be covered with very fine bread-crumbs mixed with one-fourth
part of grated Parmesan cheese; sprinkle some drops of melted fresh
butter with a paste-brush over the whole, and put it on a baking-sheel
in the oven to acquire a light-brown or fawn color. The saddle of
lamb being ready, dish it up, garnish it round with some bouchees of
wild rabbits & la Pompadour (No. 1010); sauce round and under the
lamb with some white Italian sauce (No. 13), and send to table.
619. SADDLE OF LAMB, A LA GODARD.
Bonk, staff, and braize a saddle of lamb according to the preceding
directions; when done, put it in press between two dishes till cold. It
should then be taken out of the napkin, trimmed neatly without remov-
ing any of the fat, or diminishing its size, and put into a deep baking
sheet with'the broth in which it has been braized—previously clarified,
and afterward reduced to half glaze for the purpose; put a buttered
oval piece of white paper on* the top, and half an hour before dinner
pot it in the oven to be warmed and glazed of a fine light color. Then
dish it up, and pour round it a rich ragdut d, la Godard—composed
of cock's-combs and kernels, button-mushrooms, small sweethreads cut
into scollops, and truffles—the whole to be tossed in some good Alle-
mande sauce. Put a border of large quenelles decorated with truffles,
and some larded lamb's-heart sweethreads—placed alternately round
the remove, and send to table.


$12 REMOVES OF LAMB.
620. SADDLE OF LAMB, A LA FINANCIERE.
Prepare a saddle of lamb exactly as the foregoing, and when dished
up, garnish it with a rich Financiere ragout (No. 188); glaze the re-
move, and send to table.
621. SADDLE OF LAMB, A LA ROYALE.
For the preparation of this remove, follow the directions for loin of
veal a la Royale (No. 592).
622. SADDLE OF LAMB, A LA MACEDOINE.
Bone, stuff, and braize a saddle of lamb as for a la Godard (No.
619), warm and glaze it, also, in the same manner; dish it up, garnish
it round with a rich and well-prepared Macedoine of vegetables tossed
in some Allemande sauce: surround the remove with a border of arti-
choke bottoms, or small turnips cut in the shape of cups, boiled in
white broth with a lump of sugar and a little salt, and filled—half with
green peas, and the remainder with very small turned or scooped car-
rots, nicely glazed; glaze the remove, and send to table.
623. SADDLE OF LAMB, A LA MILANAISE.
Prepare and braize a saddle of lamb as previously directed; when
glazed, dish it up, and garnish it round with macaroni prepared as
follows:—
Boil one pound of Naples macaroni in two quarts of boiling water,
a pat of butter, a little salt and minionette pepper; when done, drain
it on a sieve, and afterward on a clean napkin, cut it into pieces two
inches long, and put this into a stewpan with two pats of butter, six
ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, a small piece of glaze, a ragout-
■poonful of good white sauce, minionette pepper, and a little salt: toss
the whole well together over a stove-fire until quite hot, and then use
it to place round the remove, as also some truffles, and tongue cut into
small circular scollops; these are to be warmed in a tablespoonful of
half glaze, and placed round the remove in alternate groups with the
macaroni; glaze the saddle of lamb before serving, and send to table
with it a sauce-boat containing some of the clarified and reduced broth,
in which the lamb has been braized, to be handed round with the
remove.
CALVES'-HEADS AND OX-CHEEKS,
ooMPWirao
CarTs-head, d I'Anglmte. Ox-cheek, braized, A la Flamande.
„ plain, with Piqunnte sauce. „' d la Polonaitt.
„ d la Financiire. „ 4 I'Allemande.
n d la Remivniuc. „ d la Portttguaite.
„ d la Tartve. „ d la Pompadour.
„ d la Marigny.
624. calf's-head, a l'anglaise.
Procure a fine, fat, white, scalded calf's-head, bone it in the mannei
described for preparing mock-turtle soup (No. 349); then put it into


CALF'S HEAD. 213
a large panful of cold water, in order that it may be thoroughly
cleansed, after which, put it on the fire in a large stewpan with cold
water, and as soon as it boils, skim it well, and allow it to boil for
five minutes; then take it up and put it into cold water to cool.
Next, drain it on a napkin, cut the ears out, leaving a sufficient base
round them to allow them to stand up; cut the cheeks, &c, into
pieces two inches square, round the angles, and pare off any rough
cuticle there may be about them; this done, proceed to rub each piece
of calPs-head with lemon-juice, then place the whole, including
the tongue, in a large stewpan, with carrot, onion, celery, parsley
roots, sweet-basil, a garnished fagot of parsley, <tc, four cloves, and
two blades of mace; moisten with half a bottle of Sherry or Madeira,
and two ladlesful of good white stock, and set the whole to braize
gently on a moderate fire, for about two hours. When the pieces of
calPs-head are done, drain them upon a napkin, and dish them up in
a close circle round the tongue, (previously trimmed, glazed, and
placed in the centre of the dish); then cut the brains into scollops,
and place them in the flanks, and at each end place the ears, pre-
viously trimmed and curled; pour some parsley and butter (No. 77)
over the remove, and send to table.
The calP s ears should be trimmed as follows:—First drain them
upon a napkin, then scrape off all the gH'tnons surface from the thin
part with the edge of a spoon, leaving ;ho white gristly membrane
quite clear; wash them in warm water, put them back upon the
napkin, and then slit them into narrow stripes, taking care not to run
tbe knife through the ends, but merely from the inner part to within
half an inch of the point, so as that, when the ear is turned down, it
may present the appearance of a looped frill.
It is customary to send a piece of boiled streaky bacon on the side-
table, when calfs-head is intended to be eaten plain. A boatful of
sauce d la Diable (No. 17) as an accessory to plain calPs-head, is
generally preferred to parsley and butter, the latter being considered
too insipid.
625. calf's-head, plain with piquante sauce.
Prepare the calf's-head as directed in the preceding article;
then put about one pound of chopped beef-suet into a large stewpan,
with carrot, onion, celery, garnished fagot of parsley, four cloves, and
two blades of mace. Stir the whole with a wooden spoon over the fire
until the suet is melted, then add the pulp of two lemons and a small
handful of flour; moisten with common white broth, or water, add a
little salt and a few pepper-corns, and then set the calPs-head to boil
gently for about two hours. When it is done, drain the pieces upon
a napkin, and dish them up neatly round the tongue, trimmed and
glazed, and placed in the centre of the dish; place the ears, after
trimming them, at each end, and on either side of the tongue place half
the brains (which should be boiled in vinegar and water, with a little
■alt, and some fat from the stock-pot); make an incision lengthwise
in each half portion of the brains, then pour a well-made Piquante
sauce (No. 18) over the whole: garnish round with eight fried eggs,
and some croutons, and send to tablo.
CalPs-head, prepared according to the foregoing directions, may also


214 REMOVES.
be served with either Italian, Ravigotte, Tomata, Poivrade, or Poor-man'■
sauce.
626. calf's-head, a la financiers.
Bonk a calFs-head, blanch it in boiling water for about ten min-
utes on the fire, then put it into cold water for ten minutes; drain
it upon a napkin, trim off all the rough parts, and cut it into large
scollops, leaving the tongue and ears whole, as usual; the brain
should be carefully taken out of the head, and boiled separately, as
directed in previous cases.
The pieces of calf's-head after being first rubbed over with lemon-
juice, should be placed in a braizing-pan with half a bottle of Sherry
or Madeira, two ladlesful of good stock, carrot, onion, celery, gar-
nished fagot of parsley, &c; four cloves, two blades of mace and a
*ew peppercorns; cover with a thickly buttered oval piece of strong
white paper, and put on the lid; then set it to braize gently for about
two hours, with live embers on the lid. Twenty minutes before
dinner time, drain the pieces of calf's head on to a napkin, dish them
up in the form of a wreath, round the base of a fried eroustade (pre-
viously stuck on the centre of the dish with a little flour and white
> of egg mixed together), at each end place the ears, on the eroustade
place the tongue (separated down the centre, and rather spread out),
and the brains laid thereon; around these should be stuck in the
erd unlade six or eight ornamental skewers, each furnished with a double
cock's-comb, a large mushroom, a trufile, and a crayfish; pour rouud
the whole a rich Financiere ragout (No. 188), aud send to table.
627. calf's-head, a la reauvaux.
Select a small, well-shaped white calPs-head, bone it carefully, as
before directed, keeping the skin as whole as possible. When the
head has been boned, wash it thoroughly, wipe it with a clean cloth,
season inside with pepper and salt, and then 611 up the entire vacant
space, occasioned by the extraction of the skull and jaws, with
a well-seasoned quenelle force-meat made of veal mixed with some
chopped parsley and mushrooms; when the calf's-head is thus again
plumped up to its original size, by means of the force-meat, it must be
secured, by sewing up all the apertures with twine and a truss-
ing needle of proper size. When this part of the process is completed,
roll the calf's-head up tightly in a well-buttered napkin saturated
with lemon-juice (to keep the head white); then place the calPs-head
in a braizing-pan with one pound of chopped suet, carrot, onion,
/ celery garnished fagot cloves, mace, peppercorns, and a spoonful
of salt; moisten with good common white stock, cover with the lid,
and set it to boil gently for about two hours.
About half an hour before dinner-time, take the calf's head up on
a dish, remove the napkin, trim the ears, slit them and turn them
down, that they may appear frilled; then place the calf's-head, per-
fectly drained from any moisture, on the centre of the dish, and
remove all the twine with which it has been sewn up, and mask it all
over, excepting the ears, with a preparation of four yelks of eggs,
mixed with a pat of melted butter, and seasoned with pepper and
salt, and a little nutmeg; then cover the whole with fine bread-


calf's-head. 215
crumbs, fried in a sauta-pan, with a little batter of a fine bright color,
and place the head in the oven for five minutes, that the bread-crumbs
may dry on, taking care to cover the ears with wet paper to keep
them white, and prevent them from cocking up and spoiling their ef-
fect. As soon as the bread-crumbs have dried on, remove the paper
from the ears, sauce round with a ragout, composed of the tongue cut
'.»to scollops, as also the brains, some button mushrooms, and green
gherkins, cut into the shape of olives; allow these to boil up for two
or three minutes in a well-made Poivrade sauce (No. 29); garnish
round with some quenelles of veal or chicken, colored with Ravigotte,
or spinuch-green (No. 285); stick in four silver ornamental skewers,
garnished with a crest of red tongue, a large truffle, and a decorated
quenelle, and send to table.
628. calf's-head, a la tortus.
Bone, blanch and trim a calPs-head, cut it up into large scollops,
keep the ears whole, neatly trim the pieces, and toss them in the
juice of a lemon ; put them into a stewpan, with carrot, onion, celery,
garnished-fagot, cloves, mace, and a few peppercorns; moisten with
half a bottle of Madeira or Sherry, and two large ladlesful of good
stock; cover with a well-buttered stiff paper, and put on the lid; set
the whole to braize on the stove for about two hours. When the
pieces of calPs-head are done, drain them on a napkin, and afterward
dish them up in the form of a close wreath, round the base of a fried
bread croustade; place the ears at the ends and on the flanks: if the
party be large, two extra ears should be procured, as the four make
the dish look much handsomer: next, place the tongue, cut down its
centre, and spread out on the top of the crdustade; on this put the
brains, which must be kept whole and white, and round these, on the
croustade, should be stuck six ornamental silver skewers, garnished
with a double cocks-comb, a large mushroom, a quenelle, a truffle, and
a large crayfish: sauce round with a well-made sauce d la Tortui
(No. 9); garnish the dish round between the spaces of the ears, with
four larded and glazed sweethreads, and eight decorated quenelles, ani
send to table.
629. calf's-head, a la marigny.
Prepare and braize a calf's-head as directed for dressing a calPs-'
head d la Beauvaux. When done, take it out of the napkin, and
drain all the moisture from it, place the head on a dish, remove the
twine used to secure its shape, trim the ears, and then sauce it all
over (the ears excepted) with a well-seasoned Ravigotte sauce; garnish
round with a border of crayfish, and green gherkins, and send to
table.
Note.—It is not necessary, in all cases, to garnish each remove as
richly as heretofore set forth: many of the accessories, on every-day
occasions, might be regarded as extravagant. What to omit in such
cases, must be left to the judgment of the experienced cook, acquainted
with the means and taste of his master.


REMOVES.
630. OI-CHEEK. BRAIZED, A U FLAMANDE.
Procure two fresh ox-cheeks, bone and trim them, and then place
them in a large oval braizing-pan on the drainer, garnish with the
usual complement of vegetables, <fec, add the trimmings, moisten witn
sufficient broth from the stockpot to cover the whole, and set them
to boil very gently by the side of the stove-fire for about five hours.
When the ox-cheeks are thoroughly braized, and are become quite
tender, take them up carefully, and put them in press between two
dishes, until cold; then trim them neatly, giving them an oval or
oblong shape, and put them into a deep fricandeau pan, with the broth
in which they have been braized (clarified and reduced to half its
original quantity), and set them by in the larder, till about three-
quarters of an hour before dishing up; then put the ox-cbeeks in the
oven or on a slow fire, to get gradually warm, and to glaze them
brightly, with their own stock. Next place them on their dish, the
one resting on the other, garnish them round with a border of
Brussels-sprouts boiled green, and tossed over the fire in a stew-pan,
with two pats of butter, grated nutmeg, pepper and salt; or when
these fail, in their stead use braized cabbages; then add a border of
alternate groups of well-prepared, and nicely glazed carrots and
turnips, cut into fancy shapes, and also soine small-sized glazed
onions. Sauce with an Espagnole or Poivrade sauce, and send to
table.
631. OX-CHEEK, A LA POLONATSE.
Bone and trim two ox-cheeks; prepare them for braizing as directed
in the foregoing case ; moisten with half a bottle of Sherry, and allow
them to simmer on the stove-fire for about ten minutes, add sufficient
stock to cover them, and again set them on the stove to boil; skim
and put them by the side of the fire, to continue gently boiling for
five hours. When the ox-cheeks are sufficiently braized, and are
become quite tender, put them in press between two dishes; when
cold, trim, aud afterward cut them across the grain into very thiu
slices. Then stick a number of triangular crdutons of fried bread in
an oval form on the dish, within two inches of the edge, and within
this coronet place a layer of the thin slices of the ox-cheeks, over
which spread some sauce made in the following manner:—
Shred the rind of two oranges very thin, and perfectly free from
pith, boil it in water for five minutes, drain and refresh it in cold
water, and then add to it a small ladleful of good Espagnole sauce, half
a pound of red-currant jelly, four chopped shalots, a little grated
nutmeg, and the juice of one lemon ; boil the whole together, stirring
it the while with a wooden spoon, and use this preparation as directed
above. Having thus continued alternately adding layers of ox-
cheek and sauce, until the whole forms a dome; mask it over with
the remainder of the sauce, and after smoothing the surface with the
blade of a knife, cover it with some light-colored raspings of roll,
bruised and sifted for the purpose. About three quarters of an hour
before dinner, put the dish in the oven, when moderately hot to allow
the preparation to get thoroughly warm; garnish with a border of
fried eggs and glazed onions, pour some of the same sauce round it—•


OX-CHEEKS. , 217
this, however, must be thinner than that directed to be used for mixing
with the ox-cheeks—and serve.
632. OX-CHEEKS, A . ALLEMANDE.
Braize the ox-cheeks as directed in tne foregoing case; when done,
pat them in press, and after being trimmed, place them on a but-
tered baking-sheet, and mask them all over with the following prepara-
tion :—Bake some pieces of crumb of bread of a light color, pound
and sift them; use this powder to mix into a paste with Port wine, a
table-spoonful of cinnamon-powder, and 2 oz. of pounded sugar; mix
the whole well together, and spread it all over the ox-cheeks. Three
quarters of an hour before dinner-time, put the ox-cheeks in the oven,
when moderately hot, to get warmed through; then place them on
their dish, garnish round with groups of small quenelles of potatoes
(No. 312) and stewed prunes, sauce them round with German sweet
sauce (No. 61), and send to table.
633. OX-CHEEKS, A LA PORTUGUAISE.
Braize the ox-cheeks; when done, put them in press, trim and place
them in a fricandeau pan, with the clarified and reduced broth in which
they have been braized; and having warmed them in this, and glazed
them with it, dish them up; garnish round with a border of eggs,
farcis, or stuffed and fried (No. 380), pour some Portuguese sweet
sauce (No. 59) round the ox-cheeks, and send to table.
634. OX-CHEEKS, A LA POMPADOUR.
Braize the ox-cheeks very tender, and after having put them in
press, and then trimmed them, mask them over with a coating of
reduced Alelet sauce (No. 36); when the sauce has become set by
cooling on the ox-cheeks, egg them over and bread-crumb them with
very fine bread-crumbs mixed with one fourth of grated Parmesan
cheese; sprinkle over a little butter, place them on a well-battered
baking-sheet, and an hoar before dinner put them in the oven to bake
of a fine bright color; dish them up, garnish round with a ragout of
ox-palates in a brown Italian sauce (No. 209), finish with a border of
croquettes of ox-palates, and send to table.
Note.—Besides the foregoing methods of dressing ox-cheeks, they
may also be served with a Jardiniere, Mavedoine, tomatas farcis (No.
1160), braized red cabbage, Soubise, or Brltonne purees, stewed peas,
or asparagus peas.
Although in the preceding cases it is directed that two ox-cheeks
should be used for a remove, it does not follow that in all cases two
are requisite; more frequently one will prove to be quite sufficient for
the purpose.


218
REMOVES OF PORK AND ROASTED SUCKING PIGS,
COMPRISING
Boiled Leg of Pork, <J I'Anglaite. Roast Sucking Pig, d FAnglaite.
,, „ d I'AIUmande. „ „ d la Ptrigord.
Boast Leg of Pork. „ „ d la Chipolata.
Boast Loin of do. ,. „ d la Proven^ale.
Boast Neck of do. „ „ d la Napulitaint*
Boast Griskin of do.
635. BOILED LEG OF PORK A l'aNGLAISE.
Saw off the shank bone of a salted leg of dairy-fed pork, then put
it into a large braizing-pan or stock-pot: fill this nearly full with cold
water, and add six carrots, as many turnips, one head of celery, and an
onion stuck with three cloves. Set the pork to boil gently by the side
of the stove-fire for about three hours—the exact time depending on
its size. While the pork is boiling, trim a dozen and a half of small
turnips and as many young carrots, boil these separately, and reserve
them for garnishing the remove. When the pork is done, drain, trim,
and dish it up; place the carrots and turnips alternately round the
remove, pour some plain gravy under it, put a ruffle on the bone, and
send to table.
A peas-pudding is usually served from the side-board, made as
follows: soak a pint of yellow split peas in cold water for about six
hours; drain and tie them rather loosely in a napkin or pudding-cloth,
and boil them with the pork—about three hours will suffice. Take
them up, pound them in a mortar with two pats of fresh butter, and
rub them through a fine wire-sieve: then put this puree into a stew-
pan, add the yelks of four eggs, pepper, salt, and nutmeg; mix the
whole well together with a wooden spoon, and after having spread a
napkin with fresh butter, place the purie in the centre, draw the
corners up on the left hand, and with the right tie up the pudding
with string; then place it to boil for an hour, after which turn it out
carefully on to a vegetable dish, and serve.
636. BOILED LEG OF PORK A L'ALLEMANDX
Pickle a leg of pork with four ounces of saltpetre, difo of moist
sugar, half a pint of vinegar, cloves, mace, sweet basil, and ciurjuram,
thyme, and bay-leaf, and the usual quantity of common salt; be:: it
as directed in the foregoing article. When done, dish it up, and after
garnishing it with saulr kraut (No. 165), surround it with a border of
glazed carrots, turnips, and onions; pour some Poivrade sauce (No.
29) over it, and send to table.
637. ROAST LEG OF PORK, A L'ANGLAISE.
Procure a leg of fresh dairy-fed pork; make a large incision just
below the knuckle, between the skin and meat, for the purn<we of
introducing the stuffing of sage and onion, which must be secured by
sewing it up with small twine; then with a sharp-pointed knife score
it all over in the following manner: with the left hand hold the pork
firmly, and with a very sharp knife score the skin across in parallel


REMOVES OF PORK. 219
lines a quarter of an inch apart; then spit the joint, and roast it for
about two hours and a half; when done, dish it up, pour a rich brown
gravy under it, and send to table with apple sauce.
The stuffing for the pork should be thus prepared: chop a dozen
sage leaves and six large onions, boil these in water for three minutes,
and after having drained them on a sieve, put them into a stewpan with
pepper and salt, and a pat of butter; set the stuffing to simmer gently
over a very slow fire for ten minutes, and then use it as directed above.
s
638. ROAST LOIN OF PORK.
Trim, score, and separate the bones of the loin of pork with a small
chopper or meat saw; make an incision in the upper part of the loin
for placing the stuffing, sew it up with small twine, and having passed
a strong iron skewer through it lengthwise, tie it firmly on to a spit at
both ends. About an hour and a quarter before dinner-time, put the
pork down to the fire to roast, and when done dish it up; pour some
brown gravy under it, garnish it round with a border of small potatoes
fried of a light color, and send to table with apple sauce.
639. ROAST NECK OF PORK.
Saw the chine bone neatly off, stuff the neck of pork with sage and
onion, spit, roast, and dish it up as directed for the loin, and serve.
64.0. ROAST GRISKIN OF PORK.
The piece called griskin is that part of the pig which is cut from the
side of a bacon-hog, being the lean from the neck and loin: this should
be lightly sprinkled with salt the day before dressing it for table; it
must then have a long iron skewer passed through it lengthwise, and
tied on to a spit. About an hour and a quarter before dinner put it
to roast, and when the griskin has been down an hour, shake some
flour over it with a dredger, and afterward sprinkle some chopped
sage and onions upon it. When the pork is done, dish it up, pour
some brown gravy under it, and send to table with two sauce-boats
containing apple and sage and onion sauce, the latter to be prepared
as follows: chop a dozen sage-leaves and four onions, and after having
boiled them two minutes in water, drain, and put them in a stewpau
with a pat of butter, pepper and salt; set these to simmer on a very
slow fire for ten minutes, and then add half-a-pint of good brown gravy,
boil the whole together for five minutes, and serve.
641. ROAST SUCKING-PIG, A L'ANGLAISE.
In selecting a sucking-pig for the table, those of about three weeks
old are generally preferred, their meat being more delicate than when
allowed to grow larger. Let the pig be prepared for dressing in the
usual way, that is, scalded, drawn, &c, pettitoes cutoff, and the paunch
filled with stuffing previously prepared for the purpose as follows : chop
two large onions.and a dozen sage-leaves, boil them in water for two
minutes, and after having drained the sage and onion on to a sieve,
place it in a stewpan with a pat of butter, pepper and salt, and set the
whole to simmer gently for ten minutes on a very slow fire; then add


220 REMOVES OF PORK.
a doable handful of bread-crumbs, tiro pats of butter, and the yelks
of two eggs; stir the whole over the fire for five minutes, and then use
the stuffing as before directed. When the sucking-pig is stuffed, sew
the paunch up with twine, spit the pig for roasting, carefully fastening
it on the spit at each end with small iron skewers, which should be run
through the shoulders and hips to secure it tightly, so that it may on
no account slip round when down to roast. The pig will require about
two hours to roast thoroughly, and should be frequently basted with a
paste-brush dipped in salad oil. (Oil is better adapted for this purpose
than either dripping or butter, giving more crispuess to the skin;
when basted with oil, the pig will, while roasting, acquire a more even,
and a finer color.) When done, take it up from the fire on the spit,
and immediately cat the head off with a sharp knife, and lay it on a
plate in the hot closet. Next, cut the pig in two, by dividing it first
with a sharp knife straight down the back to the spine, finishing with
a meat-saw; a large dish should be held under the pig while it is thns
being divided, into which it may fall when completely cut through;
place the two sides back to back on the dish, without disturbing the
stuffing, split the head in two, put the brains in a small stewpan, trim
off the snout and jaws, leaving only the cheeks and ears, place these
one at each end of the dish, surround the remove with a border of
small potatoes fried of a light color, in a little clarified butter; pour
under some rich brown gravy, and send to table with the following
sauce: to the brains, put into a small stewpan as before directed, add
a spoonful of blanched chopped parsley, pepper, and salt, a piece of
glaze the size of a large walnut, some well-made butter sauce, and the
juice of a lemon: stir the whole well together over the fire, and when
quite hot, send it to table separately in a boat, to be handed round
with the sucking-pig.
642. ROAST SUCKING-PIG, A LA PERIGORD.
Procure a plump fresh killed sucking-pig, and fill the paunch with
the following preparation. Wash and thoroughly clean two pounds
of fresh truffles, pare them and afterward cut them into pieces re-
sembling small walnuts, bat without trimming them much ; pound the
parings aud trimmings in a mortar with about two ounces of butter;
then put them into a stewpan with the truffles, and add thereto about
one pound of scraped fat bacon, a bay-leaf, and a few sprigs of thyme
and sweet-basil chopped fine, some grated nutmeg, pepper and salt, a
small clove of garlic, and half-a-pound of fat livers of fowls pounded
for the purpose. Set the whole over a moderate fire, stirring it the
while with a wooden spoon: when the truffles have simmered on the
stove for about ten minutes, take them off and allow them to cool, fill
the paunch of the sucking-pig with the above, sew it up with twine,
spit and roast it as directed in the preceding articlo; when done, dish
np in the same manner, taking care to send with it all the truffles;
pour some Perigueux sauce (No. 23) under it, and send to table.
643. ROAST SUCKING-PIG, A LA CHIPpLATA.
Roast sixty chestnuts, peel and then boil them with a quart o»
consomme for twenty minutes: reserve half in a small stewpau, and mix


AND SUCKING-PIGS. 221
the remainder with one pound of pork sausage-meat, and use this kind
of stuffing to fill the paunch of a sucking-pig; sew it up with a
trussing-needle aud string, spit, and roast it in the usual manner:
and when done, dish it up as directed in the foregoing cases;
observing, that the stuffing should be kept as whole as possible in
the separated sides. Garnish with a richly varied Chipolata ragout
(No. 190), and again, round this, place eight decorated quenelles;
a dozen large cray-fish should also be placed up the centre, one over-
laying another: glaze the pig and serve.
644. ROAST SUCKING-PIG, A LA PROVENCALB.
Roast sixty large chestnuts, remove their husks while yet hot, and
after pounding them in a mortar with four ounces of butter, rub the
produce through a wire sieve, and put the puree into a stewpan; add
thereto a few chives, sweet-basil, parsley, thyme, and one bay-leaf
well chopped, a little grated nutmeg, pepper and salt, and the yelks
of three eggs; mix well together, and use this preparation to fill the
paunch of a plump sucking-pig, and roast it in the manner already
directed. Then, cut it up and place it upon the dish, garnish the
remove with a border of tomatas arc gratin (No. 1160), pour some
Gasconne or Provengale sauce under it, and send to table.
645. ROAST SUCKING-PIG, A LA NAPOLITAINE.
Take half a pound of polenta,* mix it in a stewpan with a quart of
good consommi, four ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, and the same
quantity of butter; season with nutmeg, pepper and salt; stir the
whole pn the fire quickly till it boils, and then continue stirring it on
the fire until it assumes the appearance of a soft paste, when add four
ounces of picked Sultana raisins and a small pot of orange marmalade;
mix the whole lightly together, and with it fill the paunch of the
sucking-pig: roast it in the usual way, divide and dish it up, garnish
with a border of polpettes (No. 1062), pour a well-made Napolitaine
sauce (No.. 63) under the pig, glaze the remove, and send to table.
Note.—In addition to the foregoing different methods for dressing
sucking-pigs, they may also be served a la Financiere, with Poivrade,
Tomata, Maitre (THotel, Piquante, Robert, or Bretonne sauce.
BRAIZED HAMS,
ookphsim
Braiied Ham, with Spinach, Ac. Westphalia Ham, roasted, d la St. Jam—
Westphalia Ham, d I'Eutence. „ d la Paritiinne.
„ baked. Granada and Bayonne Hams.
646. BBAIZED HAM, WITH SPINACH, ETC.
When about to dress a ham, care must be taken after it has been
trimmed, and the thigh-bone removed, that it be put to soak in a large
• A kind of farina much used In Italy, obtained from Indian corn.


REMOTES OP HAM.
pan filled with cold water; the length of time it should remain in
soak, depending partly upon its degree of moisture, partly whether the
ham be new or seasoned. If the ham readily yields to the pressure of
the hand, it is no doubt new, and this is the case with most of those
sold in London in the spring season; for such as these, a few hours'
soaking will suffice; but when hams are properly seasoned, they
should be soaked for twenty-four hours. Foreign hams, however,
require to be soaked much longer, varying in time from two to four
days and nights. The water in which they are soaked should be
changed once every twelve hours in winter, and twice during that time
in summer: it is necessary to be particular also in scraping off the
lilimy surface from the hams, previously to replacing them in the water
to finish soaking.
When the ham has been trimmed and soaked, let it be boiled in
water for an hour, and then scraped and washed in cold water; place
it in a braiziug-pan with two carrots, as many onions, a bead of celery,
garnished fagot, two blades of mace, and four cloves; moisten with
sufficient common broth to float the ham, and then set it on the stove
to braize very gently for about four hours. To obtain tenderness and
mellowness, so essential in a well-dressed ham, it must never be allowed
to boil, but merely to simmer very gently by a slow fire. This rule
applies also to the braizing of all salted or cured meats.
When the ham is done, draw the pan in which it has braized away
from the fire, and set it to cool in the open air, allowing the ham to
remain in the braize—by this means it will retain all its moisture—
for when the ham is taken out of the braize as soon as done, and put
on a dish to get cold, all its richness exudes from it. The ham having
partially cooled in its braize, should be taken out and trimmed, and
afterward placed in a braizing-pan with some of its own stock; and
about three-quarters of an hour before dinner, put either in the oven
or on a slow fire. When warmed through, place the ham on a bakiug-
dish in the oven to dry the surface, then glaze it; replace it in the
oven again for about three minutes to dry it, and glaze it agaiu; by
that time the ham, if properly attended to, will present a bright
appearance. Put it now on its dish, and garnish it with well-dressed
spinach (No. 1155), placed round the ham in table-spoonsful, shaped
like so many eggs; pour some bright Espagnole sauce round the base,
put a ruffle on the bone, and serve.
Note.—Any of our home-cured hams, dressed according to the fore-
going directions, may also be served with a garnish of asparagus-peas,
young carrots, a Jardiniere, Macidoine, green-peas, broad-beans,
French-beans, or Brussels-sprouts.
647. WESTPHALIA HAM, A L'eSSENCK.
Trim and remove the thigh-bone from a Westphalia ham, and let it
soak in cold water for two or three days, according to the probable
length of time it may have been cured; then boil it in water for an
hour, and after having washed it in cold water, put it into a large
braizing-pau, with two carrots, as many onions, a head of celery, a
fagot of parsley and green onions, thyme, sweet-basil, and bay-leaf,
four cloves, and two blades of mace; moisten with two glasses of
brandy, half a bottle of Sherry, and sufficient broth to float the ham.


BRAIZED AND BAKED HAMS
2?3
Then set the ham to boil, or rather to simmer, very gently on a slow
fire, from five to six hoars : taking care, during the process of braiz-
ing, to probe it occasionally after the first four hours, in order thereby
to ascertain how much longer it may be necessary for it to remain on
the fire to effect the desired purpose.
When the ham is braized sufficiently tender, and after it has been
allowed to remain in its own liquor for an honr or so, drain it on to
a dish, divest it of the rind to within four inches of the knuckle-bone:
this portion of the rind must be cut with a small sharp knife, so as to
form a neat desigu in the shape of leaves, palms, or scollops, disposed
in a fanlike form. Trim the fat of the ham smooth, without removing
any more of it than is really necessary to give it a neat appearance.
Pot the ham in the oven on a baking-sheet for ten minutes, first
absorbing every particle of grease from the surface with a clean
cloth; then giaze it, replace it in the oven again for five minutes;
glaze it once more, and place it on its dish; garnish it round with
any of the dressed vegetables indicated for Braized Ham, with spinach,
Ac., (No. 646), sauce with bright Espagnole sauce, mixed before re-
daction with a glass of Sherry, and about a pint of the liquor in which
the ham has been braized; place a ruffle on the bone, and send to
table.
648. WESTPHALIA HAM, BAKED.
Trim, and partially bone, a Westphalia ham, by removing the
thigh-bone; soak it, as usual, in cold water, for forty-eight hours, at
least, and afterward boil it in water for half an hour; this part of
the operation should be executed in time to allow the ham to soak a
day and night, previously to its being dressed in some wine mirepoix
(No. 236) in a deep baking-dish. Cover the ham with two sheets of
oiled paper, and over the whole lay a covering of paste, such as is
used to cover venison with, and applied similarly to a pie-crust,
taking care to secure it thoroughly all round, so as to prevent the
escape of the volatile properties of the essence of the ham, &c, which
by condensation, and subsequent absorption, impart to the ham that
peculiarly fine flavor which renders this method of dressing hams so
much esteemed by gastronomes. Having prepared the ham in every
particular according to the above directions, about five hours before
dinner-time, let it be put in the oven to bake slowly, observing that
the heat of the oven should be moderate, in order that the moisture
be not reduced, so as to render the ham dry, which would spoil it en-
tirely. When the ham has been in the oven about four hours, take it
out of its braize, trim it, and then place it on a baking-sheet in the
oven, to dry the surface; glaze it in the usual manner, and after having
clarified the mirepoix in which the ham has been baked, add as much
thereof as will suffice to give flavor to some Espagnole sauce, reduce
it to a proper consistency, and use it to pour round the ham when sent
to table. Hams dressed according to the foregoing method, may be
garnished as follows :—& la Financiere, a la Perigueux, a la Parisi-
inne, a la Macidoine, a la Jardiniire, a la Flamande; with stewed
peas, asparagus-peas, young carrots, spinach, broad-beans, &c.
Note.—If the ham, dressed as above, be intended to be eaten cold,
it should be allowed to remain in its braize, until it becomes set in a


224
REMOVES OF HAM.
jelly, it must be then taken out, trimmed, glazed, and dished up, with
some aspic-jelly, made with the addition of the essence of ham.
649. WESTPHALIA HAM, ROASTED A LA ST. JAMES
Prepare a Westphalia ham in every respect according to the first
part of the previous directions, and having allowed it to steep in the
mirepoix the allotted time, run a large iron skewer through it, and
fasten it at each end on to the spit with string; next reduce the mire-
poix, vegetables, &c, of which it is composed, and cover the under
part of the ham therewith; then wrap the whole of the ham up with
large sheets of cartridge-paper, previously Tell oiled for the purpose;
over the paper put a covering of venison paste, as is usual when about
to prepare venison for roasting. Cover the said coating of flour and
water paste, with greased paper, and tie on this with string. About
five hours before the ham is required for table, put it down to roast
before a moderate fire; when it has been down about three hours and
a half, take it up, make a hole in the paste, and, with a funnel, infuse
half a pint of brandy, or, in preference to this, if you have it, as much
Malaga wine; stop the hole up with paste, and put the ham down to
the fire to roast for twenty minutes longer; then take it up, and remove
it carefully from the spit, so as not to lose any portion of the essence
contained within the coating of crust that surrounds the ham. Trim
the ham, and set it to dry on a baking-sheet in the oven, glaze it and
dish it up, using the essence reserved for the purpose, in order to give
flavor to the sauce intended to be served with it.
Westphalia hams, thus dressed, may be served with any of the
garnishes described as appropriate for baked hams.
650. BRAIZED HAM, A LA PARISIENNE

Trim, soak, and boll a ham, either Westphalia or home-cured, as
the case may be; when it has boiled in water about au hour, take it
up and put it into cold water, and after having scraped the rind clean,
place it in an oval braizing-pan, with two carrots, as many onions, a head
of celery, and garnished fagot of parsley, six cloves, and two blades
of mace; moisten with a glass of brandy and half a bottle of Sherry,
and sufficient broth to cover the surface of the ham ; put the lid on, and
as soon as it has boiled, set the pan on a slow fire, to continue gently
braizing for about five hours and a half. When the ham is done,
take it up and trim it, leaving, as usual, enough of the rind adhering
to the knuckle part, and on this cut out (with the point of a sharp


REMOVES OF VENISON. 225
knife) an ornament resembling leaves, or scollops, spread ont in a fan-
like form; glaze the ham, and put it on its dish, raised on an oval
crdustade, two inches and a half high, formed to the shape of the ham,
cut round in flutes, and fried of a light color; round the base place a
dozen or fifteen small Anted crdustades of fried bread, filled with green
peas, asparagus-heads, carrots and turnips, scooped out in the form of
very small olives, and nicely glazed. Glaze the ham, put the paper
ruffle on the bone, and serve.
Send some bright Espagnole sauce, mixed with some of the essence
of bam, previous to reduction of the same, in a sauce-boat, to be served
with the ham from the sideboard, when it is carved.
Note.—Granada, Bayonne, and foreign hams in general, are prepared
for the table according to the directions given for dressing Westphalia
hams.
REMOVES OF VENISON, RED DEER, AND ROEBUCK,
COMPRISING
Haunch of Venison, d I'Anglaiee. Haunch of Red Deer, d la Kinnaird.
„ d I'AUemande, Necks of Red Deer, d la Marie Stuart.
„ d la St. George. „ d la St. Andrew.
Haunch of Red Deer roasted, d I'Ecouaite. Fillets of Red Deer, d la Boyale.
„ d la Glengarry.
651. HATJNCH OF VENISON ROASTED, A L'ANGLAISE.
Saw off the shank-bone, remove the sinew, pare away the dark, dry
skin from the skirt, and also the dried surface of the under part. Then
cover the haunch with a large sheet of buttered paper, and over that
place a covering of flour and water paste, about half an inch in thick-
ness; envelop the whole with two large sheets of cartridge-paper, and
having fastened these on with string, place the venison on a cradle-spit,
or, if that be wanting, the haunch of venison should be first put on
the common spit, preparatory to its being covered as aforesaid. If the
haunch be a fine one, it should be allowed from four hours to four and
a half to roast, and about twenty minutes before it is done the paste
and paper should be removed, and a little salt sprinkled over it. Then
with a dredger-box shake over some flour to froth and color it; baste
it with four ounces of fresh butter, and abont five minutes after take
the haunch up from the fire, place it on its dish, pour a rich brown
gravy under it, put a paper ruffle on the bone and send to table, with a
Bauce-boat filled with sweet sauce (No. 65).
652. HAUNCH OF VENISON, A L'ALLEMANDE.
Trim and remove the spine-bone from a small haunch of venison,
place it in an oval braizing-pan with four carrots, four onions, two
heads of celery, a garnished fagot of parsley, six cloves, and two blades
of mace; moisten with a bottle of red wine, and sufficient broth to
cover the surface of the venison; lay on it'a buttered paper, and put
14


226 REMOVES OF VENISON.
on the lid, and after having allowed it, to boil on a brisk stove-fire,
place it in the oven or on a moderate fire to continue braizing very
gently for about from five to six hours—taking care to moisten the
surface frequently with its own braize. When the venison is done,
take it up on a deep baking-dish, put about a pint of its own broth
under it, trim it neatly and mask it all over with a thick coating of the
following preparation: bake some slices of bread of a light-brown
color, and afterward pound and sift them, put one pound of this into
a basin, and add thereto half an ounce of powdered cinnamon, four
ounces of fine sugar, and as much Port wine as will suffice to moisten
the whole into a thick paste; use this to cover the haunch of venison,
smooth it over with the blade of a knife, and put it in the hot closet to
dry the surface of the crust. When about to send to table, place the
venison on a dish, pour some Victoria cherry sauce (No. 64) round it,
garnish with alternate groups of prunes stewed in wine, and potato
quenelles, put a ruffle on the bone and serve.
653. HAUNCH OF VENISON, A LA ST. GEOBGE.
Trim a haunch of venison in the usual manner, and with the point
of a small knife make a circular incision about eight inches in diameter,
just below the knuckle, on the upper part of the haunch, and with a
large knife remove the surface of the part so marked out, in order to
leave the place bare, preparatory to its being thickly and neatly larded
as for africandeau. Then prepare the venison for braizing—in every
respect following the directions given for that part of the process in
the preceding article. Having carefully and frequently moistened the
surface of the venison during the time it is braizing, and kept a supply
of live embers of charcoal on the lid of the braizing-pan, the venison,
when done, will present, if properly attended to, a bright appearance.
It should then be taken up to drain on to a common dish, and after
being glazed and dished up with a rich Financiere ragout (No. 188),
in a Poivrade sauce made with Port wine, garnish the . haunch with
eight ornamental silver skewers, each furnished with a large double
white cock's-comb, a large black truffle, a crayfish, and a decorated
quenelle; put a handsome ruffle on the bone, and send to table.
654. HAUNCH OF RED DEEB ROASTED, A L'ECOSSAISE.
Prepare and roast this kind of venison as described for dressing a
haunch of venison d VAnglaise; observing that it is necessary to
allow it to hang longer than any other sort before dressing it, as it
will be found to eat tough if due attention be not paid to the time of
keeping it.
655. HAUNCH OF BED DEER, A LA GLENGABBY.
Trim and remove the whole of the chine-bone of a haunch of red
deer, saw off the shank, and scrape the leg-bone so as to show about
an inch. Then pare off the whole of the surface (excepting the fat
part) in an oval form, and lard it closely like a /ricandvau; place the
haunch in a large earthen pan with sliced carrot and onion, parsley,
bay-leaves and thyme, cloves, mace, and bruised peppercorns, adding
to these a gallon of common vinegar, a handful of salt, and half a gal-
lon of water; let the haunch steep in this pickle for about ten days,


HAUNCH AND NECK OP RED DEER.
227
taking care to turn it over twice a-day, and at the expiration of that
time, the venison will be fit for dressing.
After the venison hns been marinaded, place it in a large oval
bruizing-pan, and garnish with four carrots, four onions, four heads of
celery, two garnished fagots of parsley, &c, eight cloves, and four
blades of mace; moisten with a bottle of Madeira, and three large
ladlesful of good broth: cover with a sheet of thick brown paper well
battered, let it boil, and then place the lid on with live embers of
charcoal upon it, and put the pan on a moderate stove-fire to braize
gently for seven hours—moistening the larding of the venison fre-
quently with its own liquor, by which means, when the venison is done,
it will be nicely glazed. It should now be taken up on to a buking
sheet, and placed in the oven for a few minutes to dry the larding:
then glaze and dish it up. Pour a well-made Poivrade sauce (No. 29)
under it, garnish it round with quenelles of grouse, bread-crumbed and
fried, and at each end place groups of venison fry; put a ruffle on the
leg-boue, and send to table with sweet sauce, separately in a boat.
656. HAUNCH OF RED DEER, A LA KINNAIRD.
Prepare and dress a hannch of red deer exactly as the foregoing;
when done, glazed and dished up, garnish it round with alternate
groups of fried potatoes (cut in the shape of large olives, and fried in
clarified butter) and round potato croquettes; pour a well-made sweet
sauce (No. 66) under it, and send to table.
657. NECKS OF RED DEER, A LA MARIE STUART.
To make a handsome remove, two necks are required; from these,
saw off the chine-bones and shorten the ribs to about five inches in
length; then remove the whole of the sinewy covering from the meaty
part of the necks, leaving a perfectly even surface, which must be
larded closely in the usual manner—observing that when about trim-
ming the necks of deer, care must be taken to leave the whole of the
fat that covers the ribs. When the necks have been larded, marinade
them in the pickle prescribed for the haunch ; and allow them to steep
in this about six days and nights, when they will be ready for dressing.
Take them out and prepare them for braizing in like manner to the
haunch, proceeding in all respects the same way. When done, take
them up on to a baking-sheet, and put them in the oven to dry the
larding for a few minutes, glaze them, and place them on their dish in
the form of a Chevaux-de-frise: this is effected by placing the necks
on their base, and allowing the rib-bones to fall over, or between euch
other, showing the larded parts outside. Garnish them with a Parisian
ragout (No. 203), and a border of quenelles of pheasant d la Richelieu
(No. 1004), at each end: and along the ridge occasioned by the
meeting of the rib-bones, place a line of trimmed crayfish; glaze the
larding of the venison, and serve.
658. NECKS OF RED DEER, A LA ST. ANDREW.
Prepare and braize two necks of red deer in the manner last men-
tioned; when done, glaze and dish them up after the same directions;
garnish with a rich Financiere ragout (No. 188), with Poivrade
sauce: surround them with a border of quenelles of grouse, decorated


228 REMOVES OF TURKEY.
with truffles; at each end place a crdustade of bread cut in the shape
of a vase, and fried of a light color, and fill it with a group of four
large truffles; and on the flanks of the dish, put a group of large cray-
fish: glaze the larding, and send to table.
659. FILLETS OF RED DEER, A LA ROYALE.
Take out the fillets of two necks of red deer, which must be cut with
part of the loin adhering to them; trim and lard them all over the
upper surface, after which steep them in a marinade (No. 233) for six
days. Then proceed to dress them in the same manner as directed for
the haunch a la Glengarry. When the fillets are done, take them out
of their braize on to a baking-sheet, and put them in the oven for a
few minutes to dry the larding; then glazathem nicely, and afterward
dish them up, side-by-side, on an oval croustfde of fried bread, about
two inches high, and cut round in flutes; garnish with a ragout com-
posed as follows: braize six pork sausages, and after they have been
allowed to cool, cut them up and throw the pieces into a large bain-
marie; to these add an equal quantity of round bulls of streaky bacon
(previously braized), some button mushrooms and green gherkins. A
rich Poivrade sauce must be poured on the ingredients; let the whole
boil on the stove-fire for two minutes, pour the ragout round the fillets,
i and place a border of quenelles of potatoes (No. 312) (rolled in fried
bread-crumbs) round the edge of the dish, and serve.
REMOVES OF TURKEY AND CAPONS,
COMPRISING
Roast Turkey, A la Ptrigord. Capoo, d la Macfdoine
.
„ d la CJiipolata. „ d la Printaniire.
„ d I'Anglaite. „ d I'lvoire.
„ d la Financiire. ,, au grot sel.
Boiled Turkey, with Celery sauce. „ d I'Eitragon.
„ with Oyster sauce. „ d la Pfrigord. ^
Capon stuffed with Truffles, d la Ptrigord. „ and Rioe.
,, d la Qodard. „ d la Milanaite.
„ d la Chipolata. „ with Macaroni.
„ d I'Anglade. „ with Nouillee.
„ d la Jardiniire.
660. ROAST TURKEY, A LA PERIQORD.
For this purpose, choose a fine young hen turkey, make an incision
at the back of the neck, and through it draw out the entrails, &c;
with a knife cut away the vent and close the opening thus made, by
sewing it up with twine, then singe off the hairs, and by scalding the
legs, divest them of their black skin. The neck should then be cut off
close into the back, and the crop left entire; clip the talons and claws,
wipe the turkey clean, and lay it upon a napkin. With a strong kitchen
knife break the breast bone, and after detaching the angular part,
remove it with the fingers. Previous to this operation, some truffles
should be prepared as follows, to be used in stuffing the turkey :—
Have about four pounds of truffles thoroughly washed; peel and


ROAST TURKEY. 229
cat them into pieces the size of a small walnnt; place these in a stew-
pan, and after pounding the parings with about two pounds of fat ham-
or bacon, add them to the truffles. Season with minionette pepper
and salt, grated nutmeg and chopped bay-leaf and thyme, and one clove
of garlic; a few fat livers of poultry may also be added, after being
pounded separately. Set the stewpan containing the foregoing ingre-
dients on a slow fire, and allow them to simmer very gently for about
half an hour, stirring them occasionally with a wooden spoon. They
should be removed from the stove, and after allowing this preparation
time to get partially set by cooling, proceed to stuff the turkey with
it; keep the crop full, and with a small trussing-needle and twine draw
the crop up in a purselike form, and fasten the ends of the twine to
the back of the turkey so as effectually to close up the paunch. The
turkey must then be placed upon an earthen dish, and put away in the
larder till the next day, (time permitting,) when it should be trussed
in the usual manner for roasting.
The turkey when placed on a spit for roasting should have the
breast covered with thin layers of fat bacon, and the entire of ther
turkey should be carefully wrapped round with thick paper well
buttered, and securely fastened on to the spit at each end with string.
It should then be roasted, and care should be taken when about to
remove it from the spit, that the crop is not torn. Dish up, and glaze
it, pour under it a rich Perigueux sauce (No. 23), garnish with large
quenelles of fowl, and truffles, and serve. The quenelles and truffles
are, however, not indispensable to the completion of this remove.
661. ROAST TURKEY, A LA CHIPOLATA.
Draw and prepare a turkey for stuffing, fill it with well-seasoned
veal stuffing and chestnuts, or, if preferred, pork sausage-meat may be
substituted for the veal stuffing.
The chestnuts are prepared as follows :—Take about sixty chestnuts,
and after splitting them across the outer skin, fry them with a little
butter in a frying-pan until they shed their husks easily; when peeled,
boil them in a little good consomme till done; half should then be re-
served to be put in the sauce, and the remainder used as directed above.
The turkey being thus prepared, truss and cover with thin layers
of fat bacon as directed in the foregoing case, and having roasted it of
a light color, dish it up and garnish with alternate groups of the
ingredients composing the Chipolata ragout (No. 190), pour some of
the sauce round the remove, and send to table.
662. ROAST TURKEY, A L'ANGLAISE.
Stuff a turkey with some well-seasoned veal stuffing, let it be trussed
in the usual manner, and previously to putting it down to roast, cover
it with thin layers of fat bacon, which should be secured on with
buttered paper tied round the turkey, so as entirely to envelop it on
the spit; then roast it, and when done, dish it up, garnish with stewed
chestnuts, and small pork sausages, nicely fried; pour a rich Poivrade
sauce (No. 29) round it, glaze the turkey, aud send to table.
663. ROAST TURKEY, A LA FINANCIERE.
Thk turkey may be stuffed either with veal stuffing or quenelle of
fowl; it should be roasted in the usual manner, and when done, dished


230
REMOTES OF TURKEY
up and garnished with a rich Financi&re ragout (No. 188); at each end
.place a larded sweetbread, and at the sides, a sweetbread decorated
with scollops of truffles inserted in the form of a rose; between these
should be placed groups of large truffles and quenelle* of fowl; glaze
i the turkey and Bend to table.
As this is rather a sumptuous kind of garnish, suitable for great
occasions only, the sweetbreads, large truffles, &c, may be dispensed
with, and the Financiere, ragout only retained.
664. BOILED TURKEY, WITH CELERY SAUCE.
Draw a fine young hen turkey, and remove the angular part of the
breast-bone, staff it with veal stuffing, and truss it for boiling; wrap
some buttered paper round it, and place it in an oval braizing-pan with
carrot, onion, one head of celery, and a garnished faggot of parsley;
add as much white poele (No. 230), or white stock, as will suffice to
cover the turkey, then set it on a stove to boil; it should after that
be removed to the side, or placed on a slackened stove to continue
gently boiling till done; then take it up out of the braize, remove all
the string, &c, and set it to drain upon a napkin ; dish it up, pour over
it a well-made puree of celery (No. 110), place round it some stewed
heads of celery, and send to table.
665. BOILED TURKEY, WITH OYSTER SAUCE.
Thb turkey should be boiled as directed in the last article; when
done, dish it up, and previously to sending it to table, pour over it
some well-made oyster-sauce (No. 50), and serve.
666. CAPON STUFFED WITH TRUFFLES, A LA PERIGORD.
This should be prepared according to the directions given for
dressing a turkey after the same fashion (No. 660).
667. CAPON, A LA GODARD.
The capon being drawn and singed, trim the feet and wings; then
remove the angular part of the breast-bone by inserting a strong-
bladed knife, taking care not to tear the breast nor cut the fillets.
Next, cut the under part of the thighs close up to the bend of the
joint, and by introducing the finger through the vent, loosen the skin
all round the thighs in order to facilitate the slipping of the legs inside,
bo as to show the feet only. Then lay the capon flat on its breast,
and having turned the skin of the breast upon the back, and twisted
the pinions round to make them lie even with the back, run a trussing-
needle and string through the pinion on the left, pass again through
the lower joint of the pinion, and from thence through the upper joints
of the thighs; the needle must afterward be brought round and
inserted through the other wing in the same manner; the strings
should then be drawn tight, and fastened. The legs must now be
secured by running the needle through the upper part, leoving the
drum-sticks under, and then again the needle should be drawn through
the back, and the strings tightened to secure their position; the tail-
end must be pushed iuto the vent, and the string passed through
it twice (up and down), and tied: all this giving to the capon an
appearance of plumpness. It should then be rubbed with half a lemon,
aud wrapped in a sheet of buttered paper (to keep it white), and


AND CAPONS. 231

placed in a stew-pan with some whitepoele or stock, to braize; for
which purpose it must be first put on the stove-fire, and after it has
boiled, placed by the side to continue gently simmering for about an
hour and a quarter. Just before dinner-time, take the capon out of
the braize, and drain it on to a napkin; remove the strings, ornament
the breast with some conlises fillets of fowls, dish it up and garnish it
with a richly-composed ragout a la Oodard (No. 187), and serve.
When this remove is intended for a large party, it will be necessary
to serve two capons; in which case, an ornamental crdustade of bread
should be put in the centre of the dish, and the capons at each end,
placing at either end of the dish, a fine, larded heart-sweetbread; two
nicely-trimmed calPs ears with a black truffle on each, should also be
placed on the flanks. Fill up the intervening spaces with groups of
quenelles of fowl, large truffles, cocks'-combs and mushrooms; in the
centre of the crouslade put either a larded sweethread, or a group of
truffles—or these may be replaced by inserting six ornamental skewers
garnished each with a large double cock's-comb, a mushroom, a truffle,
a quenelle, and a large cray-fish. Sauce the remove with Allemande
or Bichamel, and serve.
668. CAPONS, A LA CHIPOLATA.
These are dressed in the same way as turkeys d la Chipolata
(No. 66).
669. CAPONS, a l'anglaise.
Truss and boil two plump capons, and when they are done, dish,
them up, placing a neatly-trimmed tongue between them; garnish
round with boiled heads of broccoli or cauliflower, sauce the capons
with a rich Bechamel sauce (No. 5), glaze the tongue and serve.
670. CAPONS, A LA JARDINIERE.
These should be boiled and dished up as in the foregoing case.
Garnish them with alternate groups of prepared vegetables, such as


232 REMOVES OF CAPONS.
small carrots, turnips, flowerets of cauliflower, green peas, asparagus
heads, and French-beans cut in the form of diamonds. Sauce the
capons with Bechamel sauce, glaze the tongue and serve. In some
cases the tongue may be replaced by an ornamental croustade of bread,
fried of a light color, and filled with mashed potatoes, in which
should be inserted some young carrots, and French-beans (cut in the
form of pointed olives), and placed in alternate rows.
671. CAPONS, A LA JIACEDOINE.
This method is very similar to the foregoing, with this exception,
that the capons, when dished up, should be garnished with a well-
prepared Macedoine (No. 143) ; a border of very small heads of cauli-
flowers and bundles of sprue asparagus about two inches long, should
also be placed alternately round the edges of the dish; sauce with
Allemande and serve.
672. CAPONS, A LA PRINTANlERE.
Truss and boil two fat capons, and when they are done, dish them
np with a nicely trimmed and glazed tongue, in the centre; sauce
them with a Printaniere sauce (No. 21); garnish them round with a
border of small deep cups, cut out of young turnips; these when
boiled in white broth with a little butter, sugar, and salt, should be
drained on a napkin, and filled with carrots scooped out in the form
of very small peas or olives, and also with young green-peas: these
cups when disposed alternately round the dish, will be found to pro-
duce a very pretty effect.
673. CAPONS, A l'ivoire.
These must be trussed and braized in the usual manner, and when
done, the broth in which they have been braized should be strained
through a sieve, then divested of every particle of grease, and clarified
with a little white of egg. After this has been strained, it should be
boiled down to the consistency of half-glaze, and when the capons are
dished up, should be poured over them, and sent to table. It is also
customary in serving this remove to use a rich Suprime sauce (No. 38),
with small quenelles of fowl for garnish.
674. CAPON, AU GROS SEL.
This is dressed in the manner described in the first part of the fore-
going article; a little rock salt should, however, be placed upon the
breast, just before sending it to table.
675. CAPON, A l'estragon.
Braize the capon in the usual way; when done, the broth in
which it has been braized must be clarified, and a few sprigs of green
tarragon thrown into it while boiling; the consomme should tnen be
strained through a napkin, and boiled down nearly to the consistency
of half-glaze, to be poured over the capon when served. Some leaves
of green tarragon must be boiled for a minute or two in water, and
used to ornament the breast of the capon.
676. CAPON AND RICE.
After the capon has been drawn, wash the inside thoroughly clean,
and absorb all the moisture with a napkin. Then nearly fill the capon


BOILED CAPONS.
233
with rice, boiled quite soft in white broth, and mixed with a spoonful
of white sauce; it should afterward be trussed for boiling, and placed
in an oval stewpan, with an onion stuck with two cloves, and a carrot.
Add as much white broth as will cover the breast of the fowl, over
which lay an oval piece of buttered paper; place the lid on the stew-
pan, and about an hour before it is wanted set it to boil gently on a
Blow fire. When done, drain the fowl, and having removed the strings,
place it upon its dish, garnish it round neatly with rice, previously
boiled in white broth, to which has been added a large spoonful of
white sauce, two yelks of eggs, a little raignionette pepper, grated nut-
meg, and a small pat of fresh butter. Work the rice over a brisk stove-
fire for five minutes, and then, with two table-spoons, mould it into the
form of large eggs, and place these round the capon in a close border:
sauce the capon with Supreme or Bechamel sauce, and serve.
If the capon is intended to be served plain, the sauce, &c, must be
omitted, and instead of masking it with sauce, pour some essence of
fowl under it; this may be obtained by clarifying some of the broth
in which it has boiled, and afterward boiling it down to the consistency
of half-glaze.
677. CAPON A LA MILANAISE.
Truss and boil a capon in the usual way, and when done, dish it up,
and garnish it with a ragout of macaroni dressed with truffles, red
tongue, and mushrooms; place a border of rissoles (No. 1020) round
the dish, and serve.
678. CAPON WITH MACARONI.
Bon the capon as directed for the capons d la Godard; dish it up,
and garnish it with macaroni, prepared as follows :—Boil half a pound
of Naples macaroni in two quarts of water, with a small pat of butter,
a little salt and mignionette pepper; when it is done, drain it in a
colander, cut the pipes into pieces, two inches long, and put them into
a stewpan, with 6 oz. of grated Parmesan cheese, two pats of butter, a
little mignionette pepper, and a large spoonful of white sauce; stir the
macaroni, or rather toss it, over a brisk fire, and when the cheese is
incorporated with the sauce, &c, nse it as directed; mask the breast
of the capon with Bechamel, and serve.
679. CAPON WITH NOUILLES*
Braize the capon as directed in the foregoing article, and when
done, dish it up, and garnish round with the nouilles, previously pre-
pared for the purpose, in the following manner :—Parboil the nouilles
in water for five minutes, throw them on to a sieve to drain the water
from them, and afterward replace them in the stewpan; season with
mignionette pepper, a little grated nutmeg, and a pat of butter; moisten
with about a quart of good broth, cover with a round of buttered paper,
place the lid on the stewpan, and set the nouilles to simmer gently on
* Ifouillei are a kind of vermicelli prepared in the following manner: Plaee six ounces
of sifted Hoar upon a marble slab or paste-board; make a well in the eentre by spreading
the flour out in the form of a ring with the back of the hand; then place therein a little
salt, and add a tea-spoonful of water to melt it; after whioh, add the yelks of five eggs,
and knead the whole well together into a firm, smooth, eompaet paste ; and after allowing
it to rest for ten minutes, roll it out as thin as paper, and then divide it into bands three
inches wide, cat these into very fine shreds, and spread them upon a large sieve to dry.


234: REMOVES OF CHICKENS.
a slow fire for about an hour; then remove the paper, and add a ragout-
spoonful of Allemande sauce and two ounces of grated Parmesan
cheese; toss the whole together over the fire until well mixed, and then
use them as before directed; sauce the poulard, or capon, with Supreme
or Allemande sauce, and serve.
In addition to the foregoing methods of dressing capons, they may
also be served with celery-sauce, oyster, green Bavigolte sauce, or with
cray-fish, or Financiere ragouts.
Poulards are dressed in the same manner as capons.
CHICKENS FOR REMOVES OR FLANKS,
C0MPRIS1NO
Chickens, d la Florentine.
„ d la Cardinal.
„ d I'Allemande.
d V/ndiinne.
,, d VAfrieaine.
„ d la Turque.
,, d VEipagnoU.
680. CHICKENS, A LA HEINE.
Truss two small spring chickens for boiling, rub them over with
lemon-juice, and wrap them up separately in a sheet of thickly-but-
tered paper; then place the chickens in a stewpan, with a garnished
faggot of parsley, a carrot, and an onion stuck with two cloves;
moisten with some of the surface of the boiling stockpot, in sufficient
quantity to nearly cover the chickens; set them to boil gently for
about forty minutes, when they will be done. When about to send
to table, drain the chickens upon a napkin, and after having removed
the paper and string, dish them up side by side, and cover them with
Supreme sauce, garnish the dish with four groups of very small que-
nelles of fowl, and serve.
681. CHICKENS, A L'lTALIENNE.
Tbuss and boil two small chickens according to the foregoing direc-
tions; when done, divest them of the paper, and dish them up; sauce
with a rich brown Italian sauce (No. 12), garnish with a border of
mushrooms farcis (No. 1161), and serve.
682. CHICKENS WITH TOMATA SAUCE.
These are prepared in the same manner as the foregoing, with this
exception, that, when dished up, tbey must be sauced with a well-
finished tornata sauce (No. 22), and a border of tomatas au gratin
(No. 1160) should be placed round them.
683. CHICKENS, A LA VENITIENNE.
The chickens, when boiled and dished up, must be sauced with a
V&niiienne (No. 26), and garnished with a border of raviolis (No. 375).
Chickens, d la Reine.
tt d V Italienne.
,t d la Sauce Tomaie.
tt d la Vinitienne.
,i d la Dauphine.
„ d la Montmorency.
„ d la Milanaiee.
„■ . d la Chivry.


REMOVES OF CHICKENS.
235
684. CHICKENS, A LA. DAUPHINE.
Draw two spring chickens, proceed to bone them as for "galantines,"
excepting that the legs and wings must be left entire. The void must
be then filled with quenelle of fowl, in which has been mixed some
chopped mushrooms and parsley; the chickens should afterward be
trussed, taking care to give them the same shape as they would have
were the bones not removed; and after rubbing them over with lemon-
juice, cover the breasts with thin layers of fat bacon, and secure their
shape by wrapping them in sheets of buttered paper; then place them
in a stewpan, with carrot, onion, and a garnished faggot; moisten with
some light mirepoix (No. 236), and set the chickens to simmer very
gently by the side of a slow fire for about three-quarters of an hour;
when done, drain them upon a napkin,, remove the string, &c, and dish
them up; sauce them with the clarified essence in which they have
been braized, and serve.
It is also customary to serve chickens, fowls, capons, or poulards,
when prepared in this fashion, with ragouts, A la Financiir*, a la
Parisienne, with Macidoine, or Jardinieres of vegetables, Italian,
Poivrade, Tomata, or Supreme sauces.
685. CHICKENS, A LA MONTMORENCY.

Truss two or more chickens (as may he required), and let their
breasts be entirely covered with close larding; next place them in a
stewpan containing a wine mirepoix (No, 236), covering the unlarded
parts with thin layers of fat bacon; add as much good cbnsommi as
will suffice to reach up to the larding, cover the chickens with a round
of buttered paper, and set them to braize gently on a slow fire, taking
care that the lid of the stewpan be covered with live embers of char-
coal, to effect the glazing of the larding. When the chickens are done,
dish them up, garnish them with a white ragout A la Finanviere (No.
18?), or a ragout a la Parisienne (No. 203), and serve.


BOILED CHICKENS.
237

fast, as in that case the quenelle would burst the skins. When done,
dish them up with an ornamental fried bread croustade in the centre
of the dish; garnish with small groups of glazed truffles, cocks'-combs,
large quenelles of fowl decorated with truffles, button-mushrooms and
cray-fish tails, and at each end place a larded sweethread; sauce with
some Cardinal sauce (No. 48), insert four garnished ornamental silver
skewers into the crdustade, and serve.
690. CHICKENS, A L'ALLEMANDE.
These must be trussed and boiled as usual, and when done, dished
up with a border of quenelles of potatoes (No. 312), first poached,
then covered with fried bread-crumbs, and placed round the chickens;
sauce them with a rich Allemande sauce (No. 7), and send to table.
691. CHICKENS, A Ii'lNDIENNE.
Truss two chickens for boiling, lard the breasts closely, and place
them in a conveniently-sized stewpan with a carrot, an onion stuck
with two cloves, and a garnished faggot of parsley, &c; add some good
stock in sufficient quantity to reach up to the larding, place a buttered
paper over the chickens, and having put the lid on the stewpan, set
them to braize gently, with some live embers of charcoal upon the lid
of the pan : about forty minutes will suffice to do them. Then remove
the paper, and after drying the larding in the oven for a minute or two,
glaze the chickens nicely, dish them up, garnish them round with a
border of rice croquettes formed in the shape of an egg, and between
each croquette place a minion fillet of fowl decorated with tongue, sauce
them round with some Financiere sauce (No. 8), in which have been
added two mangoes sliced small, and serve.
692. CHICKENS, A L'AFRICAINE.
Prepare the chickens in the same way as for d la Cardinal, and
detach the skins in the same manner, fill up the interstices between


238
REMOVES OF CHICKENS.
the skin and fillets, with some forcemeat of fowl in which has been
mixed sufficient purie of trnffles (No. 121) to color it; the chickens
most then be trussed as for boiling, and after being covered with thin
layers of fat bacon, should be braized, and when done, dished up side
by side. Garnish them round with alternate, groups of very small
quenelles, half of which must be colored with chopped truffles and the
remainder with lobster coral; sauce with a Financiere ragout (No.
188), in a Poivrade sauce (No. 29), and serve.
693. CHICKENS, A LA TUBQUE.
These must be trussed, boiled, and dished up as usual; they should
then be garnished with a close border of rice boiled in broth, with a
little saffron and Cayenne pepper; place round the rice alternate groups
of Smyrna raisins stewed in a little Malaga wine, and tongue cut into
small pipelike forms about half an inch long; pour a lightly-seasoned
curry sauce (No. 47) over the chickens, and serve.
694. CHICKENS A L'ESPAGNOLE.
Tktjss two chickens as for boiling, then take a deep fricandeau pan,
spread it thickly with butter, and lay therein, in circular order, a dozen
pieces of raw ham cut in the shape and about twice the thickness of a
crown-piece; upon these place the chickens, and garnish with carrot,
onion, faggot of parsley, a clove of garlic, a little grated nutmeg, peppef
and salt; cover with a buttered paper and the lid, and then set them
upon a moderate fire (with some live embers of charcoal upon the lid),
to simmer for about forty minutes: taking care to turn the chickens
occasionally, in order that they may be equally colored of a light brown
all over. This being done, the butter should be drained off from the
chickens, and the vegetables removed; then add a glass of Sherry or
Madeira, two spoonfuls of Tomata sauce (No. 22), and the same quan-
tity of Brown sauce, a small piece of glaze, lemon-juice, and a little
Cayenne pepper. Let the whole simmer together on the fire for five
minutes, then draw the strings from the chickens, and dish them up;
garnish them round with the pieces of ham placed alternately with a
crduton of the same shape; round these place four groups of Spanish-
peas (garbangas) boiled and divested of the hulls, and some dressed
to mat as au gratin (No. 1161); pour the sauce over the chickens and
serve.
In addition to the foregoing methods of dressing chickens for small
Removes, Flanks, or Entrees, they may also be served with rice,
macaroni, nouilles, oyster sauce, d I'Anglaise, a VIvoire, A VEstragon,
Ac, and indeed in every variety of form described for dressing capons.


239
REMOVES OF GOOSE,
COMPRISING
Goose, <t I'Anglaiee. Goose, d la Normande.
„ d I'Ettouffade. Wild Goose, d I'Aberdeen.
„ d la Ffamande. „ d I'AlUmande.
„ d I'Allemande. Cygnets.
„ d la Dauphinoiie. „ & la Norwich.
695. GOOSE, A l'anglaise.
Draw a fine fat goose, and stuff it with the following seasoning :—
Chop six large onions and about one third of the quantity of green-
sage-leaves; parboil these in water for three minutes, then drain them
upon a sieve, and afterward put them into a small stewpan with two
ounces of butter, pepper and salt, and allow the whole to simmer
gently over a slow fire for a few minutes, stirring the seasoning the
whole of the time with a wooden spoon. When the goose is stuffed,
truss it for roasting, run the spit through it, then fasten it on by
the means of a strong iron skewer laid upon the back of the goose,
and secured at each end with string. The goose should now be put
down to the fire to roast, which will require about an hour and a half,
according to its size—taking particular care to baste it frequently;
when done, take it off the spit, dish it up with a rich brown gravy
under it, and send to table with a boat of apple-sauce.
696. goose, a l'estouffade.
Draw a fine fat young goose, and stuff it in the following manner :—
Parboil two large onions and chop them fine; to these add six sage-
leaves, and a proportionate quantity of green thyme and mugwort:
these also must first be parboiled and then chopped. Put the onions
and the herbs into a small stewpan with two ounces of butter, a little
grated nutmeg, pepper and salt; and set the whole to stew gently on
a very slow fire for about ten minutes. Then put the stuffing into
the goose, and truss it in the usual way; place it in an oval stewpan
with half-a-pound of butter, a garnished faggot of parsley, an onion
stuck with four cloves, one head of celery, and a carrot cut into slices,
and moisten with two glasses of Sherry. Put the lid on the stewpan,
place it on a slow fire, with some live embers of charcoal and ashes on
the lid, and allow the goose to simmer gently for about an hour and
a half, taking particular care to turn it, so as to give it an equal color
all over. When done, pour off all the fat, and a ragout-spoonful of
reduced brown sauce, and a little consommi to detach the glaze from
the sides of the stewpan; and having allowed it to boil quickly, in
order to reduce the sauce to its usual consistency, the goose should be
dished up, and garnished round with a border of glazed turnips; then
pour the sauce over it, and serve.
This dish may also be garnished with macaroni, with glazed carrots,
or onions.


240
REMOVES OF GOOSE.
697. GOOSE, A LA FLAMANDE.
Truss and braize a goose; when done, dish it up and garnish it
round with alternate groups of glazed carrots, turnips, Brussels-
sprouts, and indeed almost every variety of vegetables in season, pre-
viously prepared for the purpose; glaze the goose, and pour • some
bright brown sauce (with the addition of some of the braize in which
it has been done, reduced to a glaze for that purpose) round the vege-
tables, and scud to table.
698. GOOSE, A l'allemande.
Procure a double-handful of mugwort, rub off all the buds, and
blanch them in boiling water for two minutes; then drain and put
them into a small stewpan, with a large onion chopped fine, a little
grated nutmeg, pepper and salt, and four ounces of butter; set these
to simmer gently on the fire, for ten minutes, and having put this
stuffing in the goose, truss and place it in an oval stewpan with four
ounces of butter, and set it on a moderate fire, with some live embers
on the lid. Care should be taken to turn the goose every now and
then, so as to give it an equal color all over. When it is done, pour
off all the grease, add the juice of one lemon and one orange, together
with the peel of an orange eut into very thin shreds previously par-
boiled in water; add also a spoonful of brown sauce and a little
congommd. Allow these to boil together for two or three minutes,
dish up the goose, garnish it round with groups of potatoes—cut into
the shape of large olives and fried in butter—pour the sauce over the
goose, and send to table.
699. GOOSE, A LA DAUPHINOISE.
Stuff a goose with chestnuts prepared as follows:—Slit, scald, and
peel about sixty large chestnuts; put them into a stewpan with two
ounces of butter, a little salt, aud a quart of good broth, one shalot,
chopped fine, and a garnished faggot of parsley; set the chestnuts to
stew upon a slow fire, and when they are done, put them in the goose
and truss it. Then place the goose in a deep earthen dish, moisten
with a wine mirepoix (No. 236), and cover the dish effectually with
some stiff-made flour-and-water paste, so as entirely to prevent the
aroma of the several ingredients from escaping. Set it in the oven
to bake for about two hours, and when it is done, remove the crust,
dish up the goose, strain the gravy through a sieve into a stewpan,
skim off every particle of grease, and then boil it down to the bare
quantity required for saucing; to this add the juice of two oranges
and one lemon, half a pound of currant jelly, and some orange peel
shred fine; boil the whole together for two minutes, then pour the
sauce over the goose, and send to table.
700. GOOSE, A LA NORMANDE.
Chop one large onion fine, blanch, and afterward drain it upon a
sieve; then fry it with a little butter of a light brown color, and
mix it with mashed potatoes, in sufficient quantity to stuff the goose;
this being doue, truss it and roast it in the usual manner, and when
removed from the spit, dish it up; garnish it round with a border of
Email round apples neatly turned, and stewed with a little broth, a


REMOVES OF GOOSE. 241
small piece of butter, and two ounces of sugar; wben nearly done, the
apples should be boiled down quickly, in order to glaze them of a
bright light brown color: be careful that they remain whole. Poors
rich gravy round the goose, and send to table.
701. wild goose, a l'arerdeen.
When the goose is drawn, scald the feet and remove the rough
cuticle that covers them; then singe it over the flame of a charcoal-fire,
wipe it with a clean cloth, and pick out all the stubble, and stuff the
goose with the following preparation :—
To one pound of chopped beef-suet, add the same quantity of bread-
crumbs, half a pound of butter, two whole eggs, a little chopped thyme,
sweet-basil, and marjoram, two shalots, and a handful of parsley; season
with grated nutmeg, pepper and salt; knead the whole well together,
and stuff the goose with it.
Then truss the goose, and put it on the spit in the same fashion as
directed for a haunch of venison. It will require about three hours to
roast; when done, dish it up with a border of glazed Portugal onions
(No. 1164), pour some Poiwade sauce (No. 29), under it, and send to
table. The goose should be frothed with flour and butter in the same
manner as venison, after the crust has been removed.
702. WILD GOOSE, l'allemande.
Prepare the goose at first as directed in No. 698, then place it in
a deep earthen dish, and strew upon it the following vegetables cut
into thin slices: two carrots, two onions, one head of celery, a handful
of parsley, four bay-leaves, thyme, marjoram, and sweet-basil in small
3uantities; also four blades of mace, a dozen cloves, and a spoonful of
amaica pepper-corns, two lemons peeled and cut into slices, a pint of
salad oil, and half a pint of French vinegar. Allow the goose to
remain in this marinade or pickle for a couple of days, taking care to
turn it frequently. When about to dress the goose, put it on the spit,
cover with a stout paper well buttered, lay the whole of the vegetables,
Ac, on the breast, cover these with two sheets of buttered paper, and
fasten them on securely with string. Put the goose thus prepared
down to the fire to roast for about two hours, taking care to baste it
frequently; when done, take it from the spit, glaze and dish it up,
garnish with a border of quenelles of potatoes rolled in fried bread-
crumbs, and pour under it a sauce, made as follows:—
Grate a large stick of horseradish; peel and slice up two lemons,
removing the pips, and put these in a stewpan with four shalots, six
cloves, two blades of mace, and a tea-spoouful of pepper-corns, two
bay-leaves, a large sprig of thyme, and half a pint of French vinegar;
set these to boil on the fire until reduced to half the quantity, then add
a large spoonful of rich gravy, one pound of currant jelly, and the juice
of two Seville oranges; allow the whole to boil together for five
minutes, and then strain the sauce through a tammy with considerable
pressure into a small stewpan, and make it hot for use.
703. CYGNET A LA NORWICH.
Procure a Norwich-fed cygnet (these birds are in best condition in
September), stuff it with the following preparation:—
15


242 REMOVES OF DUCKS.
Three pounds of rumpsteaks chopped fine, seasoned with three
ehalots, grated nutmeg, pepper and salt. Truss the cygnet in the
usual manner, spit it, then envelope it with well-buttered paper, and
encase it with flour-and-water-paste in a similar way to that practised
for haunches of venison; after which let the whole be again secured
with stout paper well greased and fastened on with twine. About four
hours will suffice to roast the cygnet, during which it should be fre-
quently basted. When done, remove the coating, froth it with flour
and butter in the usual manner, and dish it up with a rich brown gravy
under it; and send a boatful of Port-wine sauce to be handed round
with it.
Note.—Cygnets may be prepared for the table, according to the
directions for dressing wild geese.
REMOVES OP DUCKS,
COMPBISINO
Docks, ct la Macldoine. Braited Docks, with stewed Peas.
Braized Ducks, with Turnips. , „ tt la Provencal*.
703. DUCKS, A LA MACEDOINE.
Truss two ducks for boiling, and put them into an oval stewpan with
a carrot, an onion, two cloves and a garnished faggot of parsley; moisten
with a quart of white broth, cover with an oval piece of well-buttered
paper, place the lid on the stewpan, and set it on the stove to boil;
then put some live embers on the lid, and remove the ducks to the side
of the store to braize gently for about an hour. When about to Bend
them to table, drain them upon a napkin, remove the string, and dish
them up with alternate groups of a copious and varied Macedoine of
vegetables (No. 143)—such as carrots and turnips, cut in fancy shapes
and nicely glazed, after being previously boiled in broth, asparagus
heads, French-beans, green-peas, cauliflower, &c, as they may happen
to be in season. Sauce the ducks with some Allemande, and serve.
704. BRAIZED DUCKS, WITH TURNIPS.
These should be trussed in the usual way, and placed in an oval
stewpan with a carrot, an onion stuck with two cloves, and a garnished,
faggot of parsley; moisten with sufficient white stock to cover the ducks,
put a buttered paper over them and set them to boil gently on a slow
fire for about an hour. While they are being braized, cut some turnips
into fancy shapes, such as large olives,half-moons, &c, fry them in two
ounces of butter and a little sugar; when they are all equally browned,
throw them into a stewpan, containing about a pint of Espagnole sauce,
with the addition of some of the broth the ducks are braized in. Allow
the turnips to boil very gently by the side of the fire until done; they
must then be drained upon a sieve, their sauce clarified, skimmed, re-
duced to its proper consistency, and passed through a tammy into a
small stewpan containing the turnips. Dish the ducks np, place the
turnips neatly round, oour the sauce over them, and send to table.


REMOVES OF PHEASANTS. 243
705. BRAIZED DUCKS, WITH STEWED PEAS.
Braize the ducks as directed in the foregoing case, and when
done, dish them up with stewed peas round them ; sauce with a brown
sauce in which some of the broth from the ducks has been reduced.
They may also be prepared as follows :—
Put two ounces of butter in a stewpan on the fire: when melted,
add two table-spoonfuls of flour, and stir this over the fire nntil the
rovix becomes of a fawn-color; then add a quart of good broth or
gravy, carefully working the whole while mixing. Stir this sauce on
the fire, and when it boils, put the ducks trussed for boiling into it,
and also a quart of young peas, and a faggot of parsley and green
onions. Allow these to stew very gently by the side of the stove fgr
(about an hour; when the ducks are done, take them out of the sauce,
skim off all the grease, remove the faggot of parsley; and if there
is too much sauce, boil it down to its proper consistency, pour the
peas and sauce over the ducks, previously dished up, and serve.
706. BRAIZED DUCKS A LA PROVENCALE.
These should be braized as in the former cases, and when dished
up, garnished with the following preparation:
Cut six large onions into halves, remove the ends of these, and
slice them up. Meanwhile, heat half a pint of salad oil in a deep
sautapan over the fire; fry the onions in it of a light-brown color,
carefully stirring them with the end of an iron skewer to avoid
breaking the pieces. When the onions are done, drain them upon a
sieve, and afterward put them into a small stewpan with the juice of
a lemon, a little mignionette pepper and a piece of glaze about the size
of a walnut, and set them on a slow fire to simmer gently for a
quarter of an hour; add some finished Espagnole sauce in sufficient
quantity for the purpose, boil the whole together, pour it round the
ducks and serve.
This dish is sometimes designated a la Lyonnaise.
In addition to tlje foregoing methods for serving braized ducks, they
may also be garnished with a Jordiniere, stewed olives, a Nivernaise,
or with sauer-kraut (No. 165); for preparing which, see Vegetable
Garnishes.
REMOVES OF PHEASANTS,
COMPRISING
Pheasants, d la Pfrtgueitx. Pheasants, d la Daitphinohe.
„ d la Chipolata, n with braized cabbage.
„ d f It't/i'unc. t9 d la Flamande.
rt d la lizanvraux. n d I'Allemnnde,
n d la Ftnanciire. „ d la Rlgence.
„ with purPe of celery. „ d I'Etpngnule,
„ d la Soubite. „ d I ' Atpic,
n d la Dauphint. ,, d la Monglat,
„ d la Paytanne,
707. PHEASANTS, A LA PERIGUEUX.
Follow in every respect the directions for dressing turkeys d la
Perigueux (No. 660").


244 REMOVES OF PHEASANTS.
708. PHEASANTS, A LA CHIPOLATA.
These are to be trussed and nicely roasted, and when taken from
the spit, should be dished up and neatly garnished with a Chipolata
ragout (No. 190).
709. PHEASANTS, A L'ITALIENNE.
Truss two pheasants as for boiling, and place them on the spit in
the usual way, then cover the breasts with a reduced wine mirepoix,
retaining the vegetables in it; wrap them in two large sheets of well-
buttered paper, securely fastened at each end with a string; place a
long stout-made iron skewer at the backs of the pheasants, which
must be likewise tightly secured with string to prevent them from
slipping round. Roast the pheasants for an hour, take them up, place
them on their dish, garnish with a border of raviolis (No. 375), pour
an Italian sauce (No. 12) over them, and serve.
710. PHEASANTS, A LA BEAUVEAUX.
The pheasants must be boned, except the legs and wings, which
should be left entire: stuff them with & farce made with fat livers of
fowls or game (No. 249): then truss them so as to give them the
appearance of being whole; run a strong iron skewer through them,
fasten this upon a spit with string at each end of the skewer; cover
the breasts with some reduced mirepoix (No. 236), and wrap them up
in two sheets of buttered paper, which must also be securely fastened
with string. Roast the pheasants an hour and a quarter, and when
done, dish them up with a ragout of scollops of fat livers and truffles
(No. 191) in a Financiere sauce, and serve.
711. PHEASANTS, A LA FINANCIERE.
Truss and roast the pheasants, and when done, dish them up with
a rich Financiere ragout (No. 188).
712. PHEASANTS, WITH PUREE OF CELERY.
Truss the pheasants for boiling, braize them i*n some good stock,
garnished with a carrot, an onion stuok with two cloves, and a garnished
faggot of parsley; when done drain them upon a napkin, dish them
up, and pour over them a white puree of celery (No. 110); garnish
round with a border of potato croquettes, and serve.
713. PHEASANTS, A LA SOUBISE.
These should be larded through the breasts, lengthwise, with strips
of fat bacon about four inches long and a quarter of an inch square,
seasoned with pepper and salt and chopped parsley; they must be
afterward trussed for boiling, then braized as in the foregoing -case;
when done, dish them up with a puree of onions d la Soubise
(No. 119) poured over them, and send to table.
714. PHEASANTS, A LA DATTPHINE.
See Poulards a la Dauphine. (No. 684.)
715. PHEASANTS, A LA PAYSANNE.
Truss the pheasants as for boiling with the legs tucked inside;
then put them into au oval stewpan with four ounces of butter, and


REMOVES OF PHEASANTS. 245
a piece of glaze the size of an egg, and set them to simmer very gently
over a slow fire. They must be frequently turned, and care should be
taken to prevent the glaze and butter from burning. When the pheas-
ants are done, let the butter and grease be poured off; add a glass.
of white wine and some good stock in sufficient quantity to serve for
the gravy, the juice of half a lemon and a little pepper and salt; boil
these together to detach the glaze from the sides of the stewpan, and
when the pheasants are dished up, pour this gravy over them, garnish
them round wrth groups of potatoes cut into the shape of large olives
and fried in butter, and serve.
716. PHEASANTS, A LA DAUPHINOISE.
Truss the pheasants as for boiling, braize them in a wine mirepoix
'(No. 236), and when done, take them up, draw the strings, and allow
them to get partially cold ; then cover them entirely with some reduced
Alleman.de sauce in which has been mixed half the mirepoix the pheas-
ants have been braized in, (this previously to its being boiled down for
the purpose of adding it to the sauce, must be freed of all the grease,
&c) This coating of sauce should be allowed to cool, and then must
be bread-crumbed over with grated Parmesan cheese mixed with the
bread-crumbs in equal proportions. The pheasants must now be placed
in a deep sauta-pan or pie-dish, previously well-buttered, and the re-
maining half of the braize added to moisten the bottom of the pan.—
Three-quarters of an hour before dinner-time, sprinkle the pheasants
with a little clarified butter, and set them in the oven to be baked of
a very light fawn color, frequently basting them with clarified butter
while baking. When done, dish them up side by side, garnish round
with a border of quenelles of polenta, pour a brown Italian sauce (No.
12) under them, and serve.
The quenelles of polenta above alluded to should be thus made:—
Put into a small stewpan six ounces of butter, half a pint of water,
a little mignionette pepper, and salt; set these on the fire to boil, and
then mix in with them six ounces of polenta (a preparation of Indian
corn); stir this again over the fire until it becomes a a smooth com-
pact paste, and then work in with it two whole eggs and two yelks,
and two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese. Shape this composition
into quenelles with two table-spoons in the usual manner, and pouch
them in hot water.
717. PHEASANTS, WITH STEWED CABBAGES.
These must be trussed as for boiling, and placed in a rather large
oval stewpan with three white-heart or Savoy cabbages previously cut
into halves, the cores taken out, and blanched or parboiled; after-
ward the two halves of each cabbage, previously seasoned with
mignionette pepper, and salt, must be tied up with string; add two
carrots, one head of celery, two onions, each stuck with two cloves,
one pound of streaky bacon from which all the rust has been pared off,
and which must also be parboiled like the cabbages, one pound of
German sausage, and a garnished faggot of parsley; moisten with
good stock in sufficient quantity to cover the pheasants, cover with a
piece of buttered paper, put the lid on the stewpan, and then set the
whole on a moderate fire to stew very gently for about two hours.
Just before sending to table, take out the pteasants, drain them upon


246
PHEASANTS.
a napkin, remove the strings, and dish them up with an ornamental
crouslade of fried bread in the centre; then put the bacon and German
sausage upon a plate, and after having drained the cabbages in a
colander, roll them in a clean napkin in the form of a rolling-pin; cut
this into two-inch lengths, and place them round the pheasants, trim
the bacon, cut it into strips, and lay them on the top of the circle of
the pieces of cabbages in alternate layers with slices of the sausage;
about the upper part of this dish, place well-formed groups of nicely-
shaped glazed carrots, turnips, and onions, prepared for "the purpose;
pour an Espagnole sauce over the whole, glaze the pheasants and the
roots, and serve.
718. PHEASANTS, A LA FLAMANDB.

i
Truss and braize the pheasants in common stock, garnished with
carrot, onion stuck with two cloves, and a faggot of parsley; when
done, dish them up side by side, garnish round with alternate groups
of carrots and turnips, cut into fancy shapes, and nicely glazed, and
some dressed Brussels sprouts and glazed onions; pour an Enpagnole
sauce round them, glaze the pheasants, and serve.
719. PHEASANTS, A L'ALLEMANDE.
See chickens d VAllemande (No. 690.)
720. PHEASANTS, A LA REGENCE.
Truss the pheasants with plump breasts as for roasting, lard them
closely, and about an hour before dinner-time, put them on the spit
before the fire to roast for about forty minutes, taking particular care
to baste them frequently, and glaze them well just before taking them
off the spit. When done, dish them up, garnish round with groups of
white cocks'-combs, button-mushrooms, small quenelles and truffles;


PHEASANTS. 247
in each flank of the dish place a large decorated quenelle, and at the
ends put a larded sweethread; sauce the remove neatly round with
some Allemande sauce, so as not to touch the pheasants, glaze the
larding, and serve.
7£1. PHEASANTS, WITH RICE, A L'ESPAGNOLE.
These must be trussed as for boiling, and then placed in an oval
stewpan, with carrot, celery, two onions stuck with three cloves each,
a garnished faggot of parsley and a couple of red Spanish sausages;
moisten with some red wine mirepoix, cover them up, and set them to
stew very gently for about two hours on a slow fire.
While the pheasants are stewing, prepare some rice in the following
manner:
Thoroughly wash ten ounces of Carolina rice, and afterward boil it
for three minutes in water, and drain it on a sieve until all the moisture*
is absorbed; then put a gill of salad-oil into a large sauta-pan over a
brisk fire, and, as soon as the oil is quite hot, throw the rice in and fry
it until it becomes slightly browned, stirring it with a spoon the whole
of the time it remains on the fire. Then put the rice into a stewpan,
moisten it with a pint and a half of good consommi', season with a
little Cayenne pepper and a pinch of saffron powder; set it to simmer
very gently on the fire for half an hour, and when the pheasants are
dished up, work the rice with a teaspoonful of tomata sauce and a little
glaze, then mould it in the shape of ordinary quenelles with a table-
spoon, and place these closely round the pheasants after they are dished
up; sauce them over with Poivrade sauce in which part of their broth
has been mixed after being first boiled down to glaze, and serve.
722. PHEASANTS, A L'ASPIC.
Bone the pheasants, and take care to leave the legs and wings en-
tire; then season the inside with pepper and salt, and fill them out
with some forcemeat of pheasant (No. 243) previously mixed with
some chopped parsley and mushrooms; truss them so as to give them
their original shape and size, cover them with thin layers of fat bacon
and wrap them securely in napkins spread with butter, fastened at each
end with string. When the pheasants are thus far prepared, place
them in an oval stewpan with a carrot, an onion stuck with three
cloves, and a garnished faggot of parsley; moisten with good white
stock in sufficient quantity to cover them, and then set them to braize,
very gently on a slow fire for an hour and a half. When the pheasants
are done, take them up, remove the napkins and strings, drain all the
moisture from them upon a clean napkin, and dish them up; pour
under them some bright essence of game, made from the carcasses of
the pheasants, which, previously to its being used, must be clarified and
reduced to half-glaze.
723. PHEASANTS, A LA MONCLAS.
Roast two pheasants, and as soon as they come off the spit, cut the
meat from the breasts by making an incision in the shape of a heart;
this meat must then be cut into very small dice and mixed with two
gravy-spoonfuls of reduced Bechamel sauce or Allemande, and two
dozen mushrooms, a couple of black truffles and a small piece of red


248 REMOVES OF PARTRIDGES.
tongue should be also cat into dice and mixed with the pheasant.
With this preparation fill up the breasts of the pheasants, smooth thern
over with the blade of a knife, and then cover them with bread-crumbs
fried of a light-brown color; set the pheasants in the oven or hot closet
to keep warm, and when about to send them to table place them in
their dish side by side, pour under them a white ragout of eock's-combs,
mushrooms, and truffles, and serve.
Note.—This dish is generally served when there happens to be some
ready-dressed game left from the previous day's dinner.
REMOVES OP PARTRIDGES,
COMFRISlffG
Partridges, A In SMlle. Partridges, A la Ravigotte.
Rod-legged Partridges, d la PUtf. „ d In Soubite.
„ „ 4 la Ctriio. „ a I'EUtUr.
724. PARTRIDGES, A LA SEVILLE.
Truss four or six partridges as for boiling, fry them of a light-brown
color in four ounces of fresh butter, and then set them aside upon a
plate; cut about one pound of raw ham (that has been previously
soaked and parboiled) into small pieces in the form of olives, and two
dozen 6mall pieces of the red part of a carrot cut with a round scoop,'
with the same number of small button-onions; fry these also of a light-
brown color, withdraw them from the fire, and then put them with the
partridges back into the stewpan; add a faggot of parsley garnished
with thyme, bay-leaf, sweet basil, and one clove of garlic; season with
a little salt and Cayenne pepper, moisten with two glasses of Madeira
or Malaga, and a table-spoonful of tomatas; then set the stewpan
(covered with the lid containing live embers) on a slow fire, to
3immer gently for three-quarters of an hour. Observe that the mois-
tening of the partridges should be reduced to one half of its original
quantity while braizing. When done, dish them up in a triangular
form, skim off the grease from the carrots, &c, add a gravy-spoonful
of finished Espagnole and the juice of half a lemon; boil the whole
together for two minutes, place the ham, carrots, and onions in sepa-
rate groups round the partridges, pass the sauce through a tammy, pour
it over the partridges, and serve.
In the centre of the partridges place some garbangas, or yellow
Spanish peas, prepared as follows:—
Soak a pint of garbangas in tepid water for twelve hours; then
drain, and put them into a stewpan with half a pound of ham, a carrot,
an onion, a garnished faggot of parsley, and a little mignionette-pepper;
moisten with three pints of broth, and set them to boil gently for three
hours.
725. RED-LEGGED PARTRIDGES, A LA PLESSY.
These are to be trussed as for boiling, braized in a white polle
(No. 230), and when done to be dished up in a triangular form, and
garnished with neat groups of small quenelles of partridge and white


250 MEAT PIES.
small truffles, cock's-combs and mushrooms at each end place a heart
sweet-bread contise with black truffles, and on the sides a border of
dessert-spoon quenelles, made with game force-meat, in which has been
mixed some lobster-coral ; pour a Parisian sauce (No. 40) round the
partridges, and serve.
Note.—In addition to the foregoing methods for dressing red-legged
and common partridges, they may also be treated according to the
various directions given for dressing pheasants.
MEAT PIES FOR REMOVES,
COXPRIS1NG
Chicken Pie, d la Urine. Veal and Ham Pie.
Pigeon Pie, <i I'Anglaiee. Mutton Pie, d FAnglaiie.
Grouse Pie, d VEcoeeaiw. Pie of Woodcocks or Snipes, d I'lrlandaite.
Partridge Pie, d la CkautHT. Fieldfare, or Blackbird Pie.
Gibblet Pie, with .fine-herbs. Lark Pie, d la Melton Mowbray.
Beefsteak and Oyster Pie.
730. CHICKEN PIE, A LA PEINE.
Cut two chickens into small members as for fricassee; cover the
bottom of the pie-dish with layers of scollops of veal and ham placed
alternately; season with chopped mushrooms and parsley, pepper and
salt, then add a little white sauce; next place in the dish the pieces
of chicken in neat order, and round these put a plover's egg in each
cavity; repeat the seasoning and the sauce, lay a few thin slices of
dressed ham neatly trimmed on the top; cover the pie with puff-paste,
ornament this with pieces of the same cut into the form of leaves, &c,
egg the pie over with a paste-brush, and bake it for one hour and a
half. A very good chicken pie may be made by omitting the plover's
eggs, mushrooms, ham, and the sauce—substituting for these, the yelkg
of eggs boiled hard, chopped parsley, bacon, and a little mushroom-
catsup, some common gravy, or even water.
. 731. PIGEON PIE, A L'ANGLAISE.
Draw, truss, and singe, six young pigeons; then, stuff them with
the chopped livers, mixed with some parsley, a small piece of butter,
pepper and salt. Next, cover the bottom of the dish with rather
large scollops of beef, taken either from the fillet or rump; season
with chopped parsley and mushrooms, pepper and salt; over these
place the pigeons, and between each pigeon put the yelk of an egg
boiled hard, placing two or three in the centre also; add some white
or brown sauce, whichever may be at hand, in sufficient quantity to
produce sauce enough for the dish, or if neither of these be ready, then
substitute some gravy or common broth; repeat the seasoning, cover
the pie with puff-paste, bake it for an hour and a half, and send to
table.
732. GROUSE PIE, A L'ECOSSAISE.
When the grouse are picked, cut off the legs and wings, and tuck
the thighs inside; then cut away the lower parts of the backs, which,


REMOVES OF PIES. 251
if permitted to remain, would, from their bitter taste, spoil the pie.
Cover the bottom of the dish with large scollops of beef, seasoned
with chopped mushrooms, parsley, and shalots, pepper and salt: over
these place the grouse, and between each bird put the yolk of an egg
boiled hard; lay some small thin slices of streaky baeon or ham upon
the top, and then mix a pint of good gravy with two table-spoonfuls of
"Hickson's Mogul Sauce," anil the same proportion of genuine Har-
yey sauce: pour this preparation into the pie, sprinkle some chopped
parsley and mushrooms on the surface, cover with puff-paste, bake the
pie for an hour and a half, and serve.
733. PARTRIDGE PIE, A LA CHASSEUR.
Cut the partridges into small members, in the same manner as
directed for cutting up fowls for a fricassee, and set them apart on a
plate. Then, cover the bottom of the pie-dish with neatly-trimmed
scollops of veal, and thin slices of streaky bacon, first partially boiled
to extract the salt; cover these with six spoonfuls of the following
preparation :—Make about half a pint of Soubise sauce (No. 119), to
this add half that quantity of white sauce, a pottle of button-mush-
rooms, some chopped parsley, and a Iittly thyme; season with eayenne
pepper, and salt. When the veal, &c, is covered with the foregoing,
place the members of the partridges, in neat order, upon the whole;
pour the remainder of the sauce on these, and smooth over the surface
with a knife; place on the top some yolks of eggs boiled hard and
cut into halves, and between each yolk put a small piece of streaky
bacon; cover the pie with puff-paste, bake it for one hour and a half,
and serve.
734. GIBLET PIE, WITH FINE-HERBS.
Procure two sets of goose giblets (cleaned), scald them, afterward
immerse them in cold water, and drain them upon a napkin. Then,
cut the giblets into pieces about two inches long, trim them neatly
and place them in a stewpan with a carrot, an onion stuck with four
cloves, a garnished faggot of parsley, and season with pepper and a
little salt; moisten with a quart of good broth and a glass of Sherry
and set them to stew gently on a slow fire. When done, remove the
carrot, onion, and faggot of parsley; drain the giblets into a sieve,
skim off all the grease from the broth, and after having put it back
into a small stewpan, thicken it with a little roux, and boil the sauce
over a brisk fire for a quarter of an hour, stirring it the whole time
with a wooden spoon. Reduce the sauce by boiling to about a pint,
and then remove it from the fire. Next, cover the bottom of the dish
with scollops of fillet of beef, season with fine-herbs, consisting of
mushrooms, parsley, a very little sweet-basil, and two shalots, adding
cayenne pepper, and salt; over these pour half the sauce, then fill the
dish up with the giblets, which place in neat order; sprinkle some
fine-herbs upon them, and pour the remainder of the sauce over the
whole. Cover the pie with puff-paste, bake it for an hour and a
quarter, and send to table.
735. BEEFSTEAK AND OYSTER PIE.
Cut three pounds of fillet of beef or rump-steaks into large scollops,
fry them quickly over a very brisk fire, so as to brown them before they


252 REMOVES OF PIES.
are half done; then, place them on the bottom of the dish, leaving the
centre open, in two successive layers; fill the cente with four dozen
oysters, previously parboiled and bearded, season with pepper and salt,
and pour the following preparation over the whole. When the scol-
lops of beef have been fried in a sauta or frying-pan, pour nearly all
the grease out, and shake a table-spoonful of flour into it; stir this
over the fire for one minute, and then add a pint of good gravy or
broth, two tablespoonsful of mushroom-catsup, and an equal quantity
of Harvey sauce and the liquor from the oysters ; stir the whole over the
fire, and keep it boiling for a quarter of an hour. Half an hour after
this sauce has been poured into the pie, cover it with puff-paste in the
usual way, bake it for an hour aud a half, and serve.
736. VEAL AND HAM PIE.
Trim the veal and ham into scollops, and season with pepper and.
salt in moderation. Next chop a handful of mushrooms and some
parsley very fine, and put them in a small stewpan with a small pat of
butter, and one shalot also chopped fine; fry these lightly over the.
fire, then add nearly a pint of Veloute sauce or good stock; boil the.
whole for five minutes, and pour it into the pie; place six yolks of eggs,
boiled hard in the cavities, cover with puff-paste, bake the pie for an
hour aud a half, and serve.
737. MUTTON PIE, A l'ANGLAISE.
Procure a neck of mutton, remove the scrag and the spine-bone,
shorten the ribs to about three inches, and use these trimmings to.
make some stock or gravy for the pie. Next cut the mutton into neat
chops, pare off the superfluous fat, season^ them with pepper and salt,
and place them in the dish in circular order, one resting upon another
in the same way as cutlets are dished up; fill the centre with small
new potatoes, or old ones turned into round balls; boil the mutton
stock down to the quantity required to nearly fill up the dish, season
with pepper and salt, cover with puff-paste, bake the pie an hour and,
a half, and send to table.
738. PIE OF WOODCOCKS OR SNIPES, A L'iRLANDAISE.
Pick the birds clean, cut off the legs and wings, singe them, and
then cut each woodcock or snipe into halves: remove the gizzards,
leaving the trail, and set them aside on a plate. Then, cover the
sides and bottom of a white glazed earthen oval pan (used for pre-
serving game) with very thin layers of fat bacon, place the woodcocks
or snipes in the pan in close layers, each well-seasoned with ground
black pepper and salt, and a small proportion of prepared aromatic
spices (No. 1250). When this is done, fill up the pan with a sufficient
quantity of clarified fresh butter to cover the birds, plnce some layers
of fat bacon on the top, cover the pan hermetically with a firm flour-
and-water paste: bake the pie in a moderately-heated oven for about
two hours; when it has become cold, remove the crusts, wash the
edges and sides of the pan, and run a little fresh clarified butter on
the top; when cold, ornament with a neat border of picked double
parsley, set the pie on a folded napkin laid on its dish, and serve.
This is perhaps the best method for making pies of woodcocks or
snipes, as from the simplicity of the ingredients used, the birds retain


• REMOVES OF PIES. 253
their flavor: an important consideration with amateurs of this kind of
game.
739. FIELDFARE OR BLACKBIRD PIE.
These birds are only fit for table daring the months of November,
December, and January, and are in the greatest perfection during severe
frosty weather. Procure a dozen fieldfares or blackbirds—which should
be fat and fresh killed; pick them very clean, draw and singe tbem:
next cut the legs and wings off, and tuck the thigh bones inside the
birds, and stuff them with the following preparation:
Soak the crumb of two French-rolls in a little milk, put them in a
stewpan with two ounces of fresh butter, a little grated lemon-peel, a
small shalot chopped fine, and a handful of parsley also chopped;
season with pepper and salt, a little grated nutmeg, and a pinch of
aromatic spices (No. 1250); stir this over the fire until the whole
forms a compact paste; then add the yolks of two eggs, and use this
stuffing as above directed. Cover the bottom of a pie-dish with
scollops of beef previously fried brown, place the birds in close circular
order upon these; between each bird put a slice of streaky bacon, and
fill up the centre with stewed mushrooms prepared as follows. Clean
a plateful of mushrooms, cut them up and put them in a stewpan with
a small pat of butter, half a pint of rich gravy or brown sauce, two
table-spoonfuls of Harvey sauce, a little Cayenne pepper and salt;
stew these over a quick fire for ten minutes, and then, if gravy be used
for the purpose instead of sauce, thicken it by mixing in a small pat
of butter kneaded with a table-spoonful of flour. The pie must be
'afterward covered with puff'paste, baked for one hour and a half, an',
then sent to table. *
740. LARK PIE, A LA MELTON MOWBRAY.
Pick clean four dozen Dunstable larks, singe them over the flame
of a charcoal fire, cut off the wings and legs, and with the point of a
small knife remove the gizzards, and then set the larks aside on a dish.
Next cut two pounds of veal cutlets and a pound of ham into scollops;
fry these in a sauta-pan with a little fresh butter, a pottle of button
mushrooms, some parsley and two shalots, half a bay-leaf, and a sprig
of thyme chopped fine; season with cayenne and salt, and the juice of
a lemon. To these add "half a pint of Veloute or Espagnole sauce, and
the same quantity of rich gravy; boil the whole together for three
minutes, then place the veal and ham scollops one upon the other in
the bottom of the dish; put the larks neatly and close to each other
upon these, pour the sauce over them, and place the mushrooms in the
centre; cover with puff-paste, bake the pie for one hour and a quarter,
and serve.


254
MEAT PUDDINGS,
COMPRISING
Beefsteak and Oyster Padding.
Mutton Pudding.
Kidney Pudding.
Padding of small Birds, d la Chipolata.
Snipe Pudding, d la D'Ortay.
Sausage Pudding.
741. BEEFSTEAK AND OYSTER PUDDING.
Line a two-quart padding basin with some beef-suet paste; fill this
lining with a preparation similar to that described for making beef-
steak and oyster pie, except that the sauce mnst be more reduced.
When the pudding is filled, wet the edges of the paste round the top
of the basin with a paste-brush dipped in water, cover it with a piece
of suet-paste rolled out to the size of the basin, fasten it down by
bearing all round the edge with the thumb; and then with the thumb
and fore-finger, twist the edges of the paste over and over so as to give
it a corded appearance. This pudding must be either steamed or
boiled three hours; when done, tarn it out of the basin carefully, poor
some rich brown gravy under it, and serve.
742. MUTTON PUDDING.
Line a basin as in the above case, fill the lining with thick mutton
cutlets, slightly trimmed, or, if preferred, with steaks cut from the leg;
season with pepper and salt, some parsley, a little thyme, and one
small shalot chopped fine, and between each layer of meat, put some
slices of potatoes. Cover the pudding as in the foregoing article,
steam or boil it for three hours, and serve some rich gravy under it
when sent to table.
743. KIDNEY PUDDING.
Cut two pounds of sheep's or lamb's kidneys into scollops, pnt
them into a basin with some chopped parsley, shalot, and a little
thyme, and season with pepper and salt; then add a large gravy-
spoonful of good sauce, and the juice of half a lemon: mix these in-
gredients well together. Line a basin with suet-paste, and fill the
pudding with the foregoing preparation; cover it in the nsnal way,
steam or boil it for two hours and a half, and when sent to table, pour
under it some rich brown gravy to which has been added a little Indian
soy, and serve.
744. PUDDING OF SMALL BIRDS, A LA CHIPOLATA.
Most kinds of small birds may be used for this purpose, such as
larks, sparrows, fieldfares, and wheatears, &c.
Take two pounds of small birds which have been 'picked clean,
remove the gizzards, and fry them over a brisk fire until they are
browned; add chopped mushrooms, parsley, and shalot, season with a
little grated nutmeg, lemon-juice, pepper and salt, and a large gravy
spoonful of brown sauce, also two dozen roasted chestnuts previously
peeled, and a like number of small pieces of parboiled streaky bacon:


SAUSAGE PUDDINO. 255
boil these ingredients for three minutes, then fill the pudding with
them, and cover it with paste, as usual. This padding roust be
steamed on account of its richness. When done, turn it out of the
basin with care, in order not to break it; pour a rich brown sauce
under, and serve.
This pudding may be made in a plainer manner, by omitting the
mushrooms, lemon-juice, sauce, and chestnuts—following in all other
respects the same process.
745. SNIPE PUDDING, A LA D'ORSAY.
Pick eight fine fat fresh snipes, singe them over a charcoal flame,
and divide them into halves, remove the gizzards and reserve the trail
for further use; season the snipes with a little Cayenne pepper, salt,
and lemon-juice, and set them aside on a dish till wanted. Then peel
a Portugal onion, cut it into thin slices and fry these in a stewpan
with a small piece of butter; when they are slightly browned, throw
in a tablespoonful of flour, and stir them together on the fire for three
minutes; then add a handful of chopped mushrooms and parsley, a
small bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, a small blade of mace and a clove of
garlic; moisten with a pint of Claret; stir the whole upon the fire, and
when these have boiled ten minutes, add the trail and a piece of good
glaze. Set the sauce to boil for three minutes longer, and'then rub it
through a tammy into a purie upon the snipes. Next, line a pudding
basin with suet-paste, fill it up with the foregoing preparation, and
when covered with a piece of paste and properly fastened round the
edges so as to prevent the escape of the volatile properties of the sauce,
steam it in a covered stewpan for two hours and a half. When the
pudding is done, turn it out of the basin with care, pour a rich brown
game gravy under it, and serve.
746. SAUSAGE PUDDING.
Procure two pounds of Cambridge sausages, and twist each into
three round balls; put these into boiling water, on the stove, merely
to parboil them for a minute or so, then throw them into cold water
and afterward remove the skins. Line the pudding basin with suet
paste, fill it with the sausages, and pour the following preparation
upon them: chop one onion and three sage leaves, boil these in water
for two minutes, drain them upon a sieve, and then fry them in small
stewpan with a piece of butter; as soon as they become of a light-
brown color, add a table-spoonful of flour and a tea-spoonful of curry
paste, season with pepper and salt, and moisten with half a pint of
good broth; stir the sauce upon the fire, and when it has boiled a
quarter of an hour, rub it through a sieve or tammy, and use it as
above directed. Cover the pudding with paste, steam or bake it for
two hours, and when turned out of the basin, send to table with plain
gravy under it.


256
REMOVES OP BAACK GAME AND GROUSE,
COMPRISING
Black Game, el la Montagnarde. Black Game, d la Paynanne.
t, d I'ltalilnnc. ,, d la Noftoegilnne, etc.
„ d la Svtdoite.
747. BLACK GAME, A LA MONTAGNABDE.
Cut off the legs and wings, tuck the thighs inside the birds, and
split them down the back; season well with pepper and salt, rob them
over with a paste-brush dipped in clarified butter, and then broil them
carefully on a gridiron, over a clear fire perfectly free from smoke:
or place the birds in a baking-dish or sauta-pan with a piece of butter;
set them to bake in the oven, and baste them frequently. When done,
glaze them nicely, and dish them up with a border of potato croquettes,
and then pour under them some Poivrade sauce (No. 29), finished
with a piece of anchovy-butter and some lemon-juice.
748. BLACK GAME, A L'ITALIENNE.
Truss the birds as for boiling, put them into an oval stewpan with
garnished faggot of parsley, two carrots, two heads of celery, two
onions, each stuck with three cloves, a blade of mace, twenty pepper-
corns and two cloves of garlic; moisten them with a gill of brandy
and a large ladleful of good stock; place a buttered paper on the
top, put the lid on, and set them to braize on a very slow fire, with
some live embers on the lid. If the birds are young, one hour and a
quarter will suffice to braize them; but if old they will require longer
time. When the birds are done, drain, glaze, and dish them up,
garnish with macaroni finished with the' liquor from the birds, freed
from every particle of grease, and boiled down with the macaroni; to
this add six ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, a spoonful of tomata
sauce (No. 22), and four ounces of fresh butter; pour some brown
Italian sauce (No. 12) over the birds and round their base, and
■erve.
749. BLACK GAME, A LA SUEDOISE.
These must be trussed as for boiling, and then placed in an oval
stewpan with one pound of streaky bacon, and one pound of German
sausage, a good-sized carrot, two heads of celery, two onions stuck
with four cloves each, a garnished faggot of parsley, and a tea-spoon-
ful of black peppercorns; moisten with three pints of fermented juice
of beetroot (No. 380) and two glasses of brandy, cover with buttered
paper and the lid containing live embers, and set them to braize slowly
on a stove-fire partially smothered with ashes. When the birds are
done, take them up on a dish and keep them covered up in the hot
closet until they are dished up. Next, strain the liquor through a
napkin, skim off all the grease, boil it down nearly to half-glaze, then
add to it a small ladleful of finished Eispagnole sauce (No. 3), together
with a glass of red wine; allow this sauce to boil by the side of the


BLACK GAME. 257
etove-fire for five minutes; skim it and pass it through a tammy into a
small stewpan, and keep it hot. Then place the black game on their
dish side by side, garnish them round with carrots prepared in the
Swedish fashion, and round this place another border composed of
neatly-cut scollops of the streaky bacon and German sausage; pour
the sauce over the remove, and serve.
The carrots above alluded to should be thus prepared: slit the out-
side or red part of a dozen large carrots into thin stripes, cut these
again into thin shreds of about two inches long. Next, place them in
a stewpan with four ounces of butter and half a pint of vinegar; season
with four ounces of sugar, a little grated nutmeg and a little salt; set
them to stew very gently upon a partially-smothered charcoal fire,
taking care to turn them over now and then with a spoon: about an
hoar will suffice to do them: when, if any moisture remains, it must be
boiled down, and they will be ready for use.
750. BLACK GAME, A LA PAYSANNE.
See pheasants a la Paysanne. (No. 715.)
751. BLACK GAME, A LA NORWEGIENNE.
Tacss these as for roasting, lard the breasts closely with well fur-
nished rows of larding; set them to braize in an oval stewpan, moistened
with a mirepoix (No. 236) made with two parts of good stock and
one third of French vinegar; baste the birds frequently while they are
being: braized, when done, set them upon a baking-sheet in the oven
for two minutes to dry the larding, then glaze and dish them up;
garnish with a border of stewed red cabbage dressed in the same way
as French sauer-kraut (No. 165), and round this place a border of
small sausages prepared as follows:
Chop one pound of calPs liver with ten ounces of fat bacon and six
ounces of brown bread-crumbs, season with black pepper, salt, grated
nutmeg, and lemon-peel, some parsley, thyme, one bay-leaf, and some
sweet-basil, all chopped fine; add the yolks of three eggs, mix the
whole thoroughly, and then form this preparation into small flat, round,
or oval sausages, which must be wrapped up in pig's caul; fry these
of a brown color, and use them as directed above.
Sauce the remove with a Poivrade (No. 29),- mixed with half the
liquor in which the birds have been braized, previously cleared of all
grease and boiled down to half-glaze; glaze the larding, and serve.
In addition to the foregoing methods of dressing black game, they
may also be served d la Soubise, d la Perigueux, d la Financiere,
with a puree of celery, Richelieu sauce, braized cabbages, and d la
Dauphinoise; for the preparation of which, see those articles.
Note.—Grouse should be dressed in the same way as black game.
16


258
PATE-CHATTDS, OR RAISED PIES FOR ENTREES,
COMPRISING
P&ti-Chaud of Young Kabbits with fi no-
herbs.
„ d la Sauce PoivratU.
„ of Leverets with Truffles, d
la Ptrigneux.
„ of ditto d la Fittanrilre.
„ of Godivtau A la Ciboulettt.
Patf-Chavd of Young Partridges, d la
Chanttur.
„ of Ox Palates, d 1'ftaliinne.
,, of Quails, d la Financilre.
„ of Larks boned, d VEnence.
„ of Snipes, d la Burdclaite,


Pdte-Chaud Cases.
752. PATE-CHAUD* OF YOUNG BABBITS, WITH FINE-HERBS.

Cut up two young rabbits into small members, place these in a deep
sautapan with two ounces of butter, a handful of chopped mushrooms,
some parsley and two shalots chopped also; season with pepper and
salt, a little grated nutmeg and a garnished faggot. Then set the rabbits
on a brisk fire, and fry them of a light-brown color; add a glass of
French white wine, cover the sautapan with its lid containing some
live embers of charcoal, and again set them on the fire to stew very
gently for twenty minutes, when they will be done. Next, add a gravy-
spoonful of brown sauce, a small piece of glaze, and the juice of half a
lemon; toss the whole together over the fire, and allow it to boil
sharply for two minutes; then dish up the pieces of rabbit neatly in
the pie, pour the sauce over them, and serve.
753. PATE-CHAUD OF YOUNG RABBITS, A LA SAUCE POIVRADE.
Cut the rabbits into small members, and place them in a sautapan
with about two ounces of clarified butter, season with pepper and salt,
* General directions for making a P&tf-Chaud, or raised pie, will be found in that
part of the work which treats of Entreet of Pasty.


260 BAISED PIES FOR ENTREES.
centre for the steam to escape, bake the pie for one hour and a quarter,
and when it is done, remove the top carefully with a knife; score the
godiveau to the bottom, in the shape of squares or diamonds; pour
some Poivrade, Italian, or Espagnole sauce over it, and after replacing
the cover, seud to table.
757. PATE-CHAUD OF YOUNG PARTRIDGES, A LA CHASSEUR.
When the partridges have been drawn and singed, cut them into
small joints as follows:—First, remove the legs and wings; then cut
the fillets with the pinion-bone adhering to them, leaving the breast-
piece entire, as also the back, after having detached the thighs. Let
"all these be neatly trimmed without waste, and observe that the skin
of the thighs must be rolled under to give tbem an appearance of
plumpness. Next, place them iu neat order in a deep sautapan with
three ounces of clarified butter, and season with pepper and salt, and
a little grated nutmeg; fry them brown over a brisk fire, after which
add a glass of Madeira or Sherry, a piece of glaze the size of a walnut,
four ounces of truffles cut into thick scollops, and two dozen button-
mushrooms. Cover this with the lid containing some live embers of
charcoal, and set the sautapan again on a moderate fire to simmer
gently for a quarter of an hour: then remove the lid, add some brown
Italian sauce in sufficient quantity for the entr&e, allow,the whole to
boil together for three minutes longer, add the juice of half a lemon,
and a teaspoonful of chopped and blanched parsley; toss these in
with the partridges, Ac, garnish the pie, keeping back the truffles
and mushrooms to place on the top, lastly pour the sauce, and serve.
758. PATE-CHAUD OF OX-PALATES, A L'lTALIENNE.
Procure six fresh ox-palates, steep them in tepid water for six
hours, then throw them into a large stewpan of boiling water and
6cald them for about five minutes; after which immerse the palates in
cold water, and scrape off all the white cuticle from the surface; next,
wash them in plenty of cold water, and drain them on a napkin.
Then place them in an oval stewpan, moisten with some blanc (No.
235), covered with buttered paper, and put on the lid, and set them
to braize very gently over a slow fire for about four hours. As sooh
as the palates are done, put them in press between two baking-sheets
or earthen dishes, and when they are cold, take a circular tin-cutter
aa inch in diameter, and cut them into scollops without wasting any
part. Put these into a stewpan with about two dozen large button-
mushrooms out into scollops, also two dozen raviolis (Na. 315), and
enough brown Italian sauce for the entree; boil the whole together
for two minutes, garnish the pie, and serve.
759. PATE-CHAUD OF QUAILS, A LA FINANCIERE.
For a small entree, eight fine fat quails will suffice; bone these by
making an incision iu that part of the back nearest the crop, through
which all the bones, &c, must be drawn out, so as to give them as
much as possible the appearance of being whole. Next, (ill each
quail with some farce of fat livers (No. 249), and truss them with
their legs turned back: be careful that the crop is securely fastened
iu order to prevent the stuffing from escaping—a large worsted needle
and very fine twiue must be used for the purpose. Then, place the


vol'au Vents. 261
quails in a small fricandeau pan which has been pre7ious1y lined with
thin layers of fat bacon; in the centre place a garnished faggot of
parsley; cover the whole with more layers of fat bacon, moisten with a
wine mirepoix (No. 236), and having put a buttered paper over all,
set the lid on the pan and place it on a stove-fire, or in the oven, to
braize very gently for about three quarters of an hour. As soon as the
quails are done, drain them on a dish, set them to cool, and trim them
neatly. Next line the inside of the pie with some of the remainder
of the farce of fat livers, to within an inch of the top, place the quails
in it in circular order, with the breasts uppermost, and a thin layer
of the force-meat between each; cover the whole with thin layers of
fat bacon, place a double round of paper well-buttered on the top, and
then set the pie in the oven to bake: this will take about an hour.
When done, remove the bacon, drain off all the grease carefully, place
a decorated small fillet of fowl in between each quail, and on the breast
of each, a large white button-mushroom, round the edge a border of
large white cocks'-combs, and in the centre a larded heart sweethread;
sauce sparingly with a bright Financiere (No. 8) mixed with some
reduced extract of quails made from the bones.
Note.—Observe, that the raised pie for this purpose must be only
half baked previously to filling it with the quails; as it has to undergo
another baking. This remark refers also to the two succeeding cases.
760. PATE-CHAUD OF LARKS BONED, A L'ESSENCE.
Follow the preceding directions, but substituting larks for quail■.
761. PATE-CHAUD OF SNIPES, A LA BORDELAISE.
Bone eight snipes, and with the trail and one pound of fat livers,
make some force-meat for gratin (No. 249), and with part of this fill
the snipes; truss them in the same way as directed for the quails,
and braize them accordingly, after which follow in all respects the
second part of the directions. When the pie is baked, drain off care-
fully all the grease; between each snipe place a large white cock's-
comb, on the breast of each put a small fillet of fowl, decorated with
red tongne, and afterward turned round in a circle, with a round
ball of block truffle in the centre: these fillets must be placed in a
small sauta-pan between thin layers of fat bacon, and set in the oven
for about three minutes; garnish the edge of the pie with a close border
of scollops of red tongue cut in the form of large cocks'-combs, in the
centre put a large truffle, bearing a double comb, and a border of these
round its base; sauce the pie carefully with a rich Bordelaise (No.
57), mixed with some reduced extract of snipes, made from the bones,
and serve. *


262
VOL'AU'VENTS AND TOTJRTES,
comprising
YeVau'vent, d la Nttle. YoVau'vevt of Salt Fish, d CAnglais*.
„ & la Finaneilre. Tourte of Whitings, d la Davphinc.
„ of Turbot, d la B&ckamel. n of Oodivean au Hadire.
„ of Salmon, d la Ravigotle. „ of Ox Palates, d la Fran^aite,
„ of Cod, d la Crime. „ of Lobsters, d la Cardinal
762. vol'au'vents, a la nesle*
Cleanse one set of calf 's-brains, and boil them in a stewpan with
water, a small carrot and an onion both sliced very thin, two cloves, a
little mace, twelve peppercorns, and a little salt, for a quarter of an
hour; when done, remove them from the fire to get cold. Prepare
also a throat sweetbread, which must be steeped in tepid water for
two hours or more, then scalded, cooled in water, and gently simmered
on the stove in some toppings of white consomme for a quarter of an
hour; when done, put the sweetbread on a plate to get cold. Prepare
also twelve quenelles of fowl, moulded in dessert-spoons, and poached,
a like quantity of large button-mushrooms, and the same proportion
of double cocks'-combs, and round balls of black truffles. Put these
into a middle-sized stewpan, add to them the calfs-brains and sweet-
bread, previously cut into neat scollops, and just before dinner-time,
pour over the whole sufficient Allemande sauce (No. 7) for the entrSe
(previously mixed with a small piece of good glaze, and two tea-spoon-
fuls of Chili vinegar.) Toss the whole lightly together over the fire,
and with this ragout garnish a handsome vol'au'vent, cut either square,
oval, or round, so as to suit the shape of the dish.
The top of this entree may be ornamented with very small fillets of
fowls, decorated with red tongue or black truffle: or a border of small
quenelles, decorated similarly, may also be placed round the edge of
the vol'au'vent, and a small larded sweetbread in the centre of these.
763. vol'au'vent, a la financiers.
See the directions for a pdte-chaud, d la Financiere (No. 759);
substituting a vol'au'vent for the shell or crust.
764. vol'au'vent of tukbot, a la bechamel.
This entrie. is generally served when there happens to be any turbot
reserved from a previous day's dinner; in which case, the fish must be
pulled, or cut into scollops, warmed in a rich Bechamel sauce (No. 5),
made with a full proportion of cream ; let the vol'au'vent be filled with
this, and sent to table.
765. vol'au'vent of salmon a la ravigotte.
Procure 2 lbs. of fresh salmon, cut it into rather thick round scol-
lops about two inches in diameter; place these in a sauta-pan, with
* Instructions for making a vol'advent case will be found in that part of the work
treating of Puff-paste.


TOURTES. 263
3 oz. of clarified butter, season with pepper and salt, and squeeze the
juice of a lemon over them. When about to send to table, set the
sauta-pan containing the scollops in the oven, or on a stove-fire, for
about five minutes, then turn them over in the pan with a fork, taking
care not to break them; allow them to remain on the fire five minutes
longer, and drain them upon a clean napkin. Next, put the scollops
into a stewpan, with sufficient Allemande sauce (No. 7) for the entree,
add two tea-spoonsful of tarragon-vinegar, the like quantity of Harvey
sauce, a tea-spoonful of chopped and blanched parsley, and a little
cayenne; toss the whole together lightly over the fire, and with this
garnish a handsome voVau'vent, and serve.
766. vol'au'vent of cod, a la creme.
Crimped cod is best for this purpose, although plain cod may be
used, but, in either case, the fish must be dressed in boiling water, with
plenty of salt thrown in at the same time. A few minutes, in most
instances, will suffice to boil this kind of fish, especially if it be
crimped. If allowed to remain in the water after it is done, it be-
comes soft and tasteless. When the cod is boiled, drain it upon a nap-
kin, and as soon as all the water has been absorbed, put the flakes and
the sounds carefully, without breaking them up, into a stewpan, con-
taining enough rich cream Bechamel (No. 6) for the entree, to this
add 2 oz. of grated fresh Parmesan cheese and the juice of a lemon;'
toss the whole together" over the fire with care, so as to avoid breaking
the pieces; when it is quite hot, garnish the voVau'vent, and serve.
767. vol'au'vent of salt fish, a l'anglaise.
The whitest and thickest fish are the best for this purpose. About 2
lbs. will suffice; cut from the middle of the fish, and soak it in cold
water for forty-eight hours previously to its being dressed, the water
being changed every six hours. Set the fish on in cold water, and
when it boils remove the scum, and set it by the side of the stove to
finish boiling'. As soon as it is done, drain it on a sieve or a napkin,
and when all the water is absorbed from it, remove it in large flakes
into a stewpan containing some scollops of dressed parsnips, in the
proportion of one-third to the quantity of fish, and a like quantity of
slices of eggs, boiled hard; to these add enough cream Bechamel
sauce (No. 6) for the entree; toss the whole gently over a stove-fire
until quite hot, then garnish a large voVau'vent with this ragout, and.
serve.
768. TOURTE* OF WHITINGS, A LA DAUPHINE.
Procure four large fresh whitings, fillet them, and set one-half aside
on a plate in a cool place; with the remainder prepare some quenelle
force-meat (No 245), which, when finished, gather up in a basin, and
mould with dessert-spoons into quenelles. Trim the four remaining
fillets, cut each in two transversely, and after paring off the angles,
decorate or contuses them in manner following: Place the fillet length-
wise upon the edge of the kitchen table, then make incisions across
with a knife, cutting down in a slanting direction, and in these open-
» Directions for making this kind of Tourte will bo found in that part of the work
which treat! of Puff-pas try.


264 TOURTES.
ings insert small, round, thin scollops of red tongue, black truffle or
green gherkins. Next, place these in a sauta-pan with 4 oz. of clari-
fied bntter, season with a little salt, and squeeze the juice of a lemon
over them; cover with thin layers of fat bacon, or a round of paper
buttered, and set them aside in the larder till wanted. While this is
going on, make an extract or essence with the bones and trimmings of
the whitings, as follows:—Put the bones, &c, into a stewpan, with
two shalots, one bay-leaf, and a sprig of thyme, eight pepper-corns, a
blade of mace, and a handful of parsley; moisten with two glasses of
white wine (French is preferable), and a piut of white broth. Set
this to boil gently on the stove-fire for half an hour, then strain it
through a sieve; boil it down nearly to a glaze, and mix it with
enough Allemande sauce, or Bechamel, for the entree, and pass it
through a tammy into a stewpan containing the quenelles of whiting
before alluded to, with the addition of a dozen button-mushrooms,
double that quantity of crayfish-tails and claws, trimmed, and 3 oz.
of truffles, cut into thick slices; toss the whole together gently over
the fire until quite hot, then garnish the tourte with this ragout, and
with the fillets before mentioned (previously set in the oven for tea
minutes to simmer, and afterward drained on a napkin) make a border
round the inner edge of the Vol'au'vent, or tourte; place a group of
crayfish-tails, previously warmed in a small stewpan with a bit of glaze,
and a morsel of lobster-coral butter (to color them), and crown the
whole with a large crayfish, trimmed, having one prong of each claw
stuck into its tail; sauce neatly with the remainder of the sauce, and
serve quickly.
769. TOURTE OF GODIVEAU, AU MADERE.
Prepare about 1 lb. of godiveau (No. 250), and make it into small
quenelles in the following manner:—Shake a handful of flour over a
pastry-slab or kitchen-table; drop the godiveau thereon with a tea-
spoon in small quantities; then roll each of these with the fingers dip-
ped in flour to the size and form of a common cork; set them in regu-
lar order upon a baking-sheet, and pnt them to bake in the oven for
about ten minutes; when done, remove them into a stewpan containing
some Madeira sauce (No. 8) in sufficient quantity for the entree, and
also two artichoke-bottoms, cut into angular pieces, a few scollops of
sweetbreads, some ox-piths cut into inch-lengths, and a few large butt
ton-mushrooms—set the whole to boil on the stove-fire for three
minutes: garnish the tourte, and on the top of the ragout place eight
trimmed crayfish, in the centre of which put a large truffle, or small
sweetbread, larded and glazed; pour in the remainder of the sauce,
and serve.
770. TOURTE OF OX-PALATES, A LA FRANCAISE
Prepare the ox-palates as directed in the first part of the article
treating of the Pdte chaud of ox-palates. Put the scollops into a stew-
pan containing one-fourth part of their quantity of red tongue cut into
round scollops, and a like proportion of button-mushrooms and scollops
of truffles; to which add enough Poivrade sauce (No. 29) for the
entree; boil the whole together, and garnish the tourte with this
ragout, put the cover on,.and serve. ,


TIMBALES OF MACARONI.
265
771. TOURTE OF SCOLLOPS OF LOBSTER. A LA CARDINAL.
Pick the lobster out of tho shell, and cut it into neat scollops; pat
these into a stewpan containing enough good Bechamel sauce (No. 6)
for the entree, mixed with about two ounces of lobster coral butter
(No. 182), a little cayenne, and the juice of half a lemon; toss tho
whole together over the fire until sufficiently hot, and with it garnish
the tourte: put the cover on, and serve.
TIMBALES OP MACARONI,
COMPRISING
Timbalt (/Macaroni, d la Milanaim. TimbaU of Soft Roes of Mackerel, d I'Allt-
„ d la Matarin. mantle.
„ of Nouillw, d la Chat- „ of Ravioli; d la Romaine.

.i*»v
Timbale Cases.
772. TIMBALE* OF MACARONI, A LA MILANAISE.
Tub timbale case should be left in the mould to be made hot in the
oven, and when just on the point of sending it to table, garnish it with
macaroni dressed with cheese, some Bechamel sauce, scollops of fowl,
truffles, tongues, and mushrooms; turn the timbale out on its dish,
glaze it, pour some Bechamel sauce round the base, and serve.
773. TIMBALE OF MACARONI, A LA MAZARIN.
Boil one pound of macaroni in two quarts of water, with a pat of
butter, eight pepper-corns, and a little salt; when done, and cold, put
"The mode of preparing the limbnU on.-e will be found described under the head of
Pa»trjr for Eutries,


26b
TMBALES OF MACARONI.
about half of it to drain upon a
napkin. Butter the inside of a
plain round oval or square mould,
according to the shape of the dish;
cut the macaroni into half-inch
lengths, and cover the bottom of
the mould with these, placing theta
on end; cover this with a thick
layer of chicken quenelle force-meat;
then line the sides of the mould in
the same way, and as soon as this is completed, smooth the inside
with the back of a spoon dipped in hot water; fill this cavity with a
blanquelte of fowl (No. 204), the sauce of which must be thick, and
cover the whole with a layer of force-meat, to be applied as follows :—
Spread some force-meat upon a round of buttered paper to fit the
mould; smooth the surface with a knife dipped in hot water, then
take hold of the paper with both hands, and turn it upside down upon
the timbale; the paper is to be left on, as that can be easily removed
when the force-meat has become set by steaming. About, an hour and
a half before dinner-time, place the timbale in a stew pan twice its size
upon a trivet or ring to prevent it from touching the bottom, so that
the water contained in the stewpan, which must only reach half-way up
the mould, may circulate freely under it. The stewpan must be cov-
ered with its lid, containing some live embers of charcoal, and placed
after it has boiled, upon a slow fire to simmer gently but continually,
in order to keep up the steam during the whole of the time. Just
before sending to table, remove the piece of paper from the limbale,
and take a firm hold of the bottom of the mould with the left hand;
place the dish upside down upon the mould with the right haud; then,
with the left hand uppermost, place the dish on the table, and care-
fully lift the mould off the timbale. Pour some Supreme sauce (No.
38) over the entree, garnish the base with white cock's-combs, truffles,
and mushrooms, and serve.
774. TIMBALE OF NOUILLES, A LA CHASSEUR.
Prepare about one pound of nouilles (No. 679), parboil these in
water for ten minutes; drain, and put them into a stewpan with a
quart of good consommH, a pat of butter, a little grated nutmeg, and a
pinch of mignionette pepper; cover the whole with a round piece of
buttered paper, put on the lid, and set the stewpan on the stove-fire to
boil very gently until the consommi. is reduced; add a gravy-spoonful
of Allemande sauce, two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, and two
dozeu very small quenelles of game, previously poached; toss the
whole together lightly over the fire until the cheese is well mixed with
the other ingredients ; garnish the timbale case, previously prepared for
this purpose, turu it out of the mould into its dish, glaze it over, pour
a little half glaze round the base, aud serve.
775. TIMBALE GABNISHED WITH SOFT ROES OF MACKEREL.
Five minutes before sending to table, garnish the timbale case,
which must be quite hot, with a ragout of soft roes of mackerel (No.
199); then turn the limbale out of the mould into the dish, glaze it
nicely, pour a little Supreme or Bechamel sauce round the base, and serve.


CASSEROLES, OR BORDERS OF RICE.
267
776. TIMBALE OF RAVIOLIS, A LA ROMAWE.
Prepare four dozen raviolis (No. 375), and after they have been
boiled in consomme, drain them upon a sieve and put them into a stew-
pan containing four ounces of truffles cut into scollops, the like quan-
tity of scollops of red tongue, and about twenty mushrooms; to these
add two glasses of Madeira, and one ounce of game glaze, and set the
whole to boil down quickly over a brisk fire; when the wine is ab-
sorbed, add two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, and a large gravy-
spoonful of reduced Espwjnole sauce; toss these together over the
stove-fire until quite hot, then garnish the timbale case, turn it out into
its dish, glaze it, pour a little brown sauce or half glaze round the base,
and serve.
CASSEROLES, OR BORDERS OF RICE.
COMPRI9ING
Oauerole of Rice.
„ d la Polonaite.
., ti la Jleine.
CutteroU of Rice, garnished with a Purlt of
Game, d la Belle-vnc.
"garnished with wings of Fowl, 4
I ' AlUmande.
777. CASSEROLES, OR BORDERS OF RICE.

A casserole of rice is justly considered one of the most elegant en-
trees: it requires great care throughout its preparation, especially in
the treatment of the rice, that being its basis, and upon the success of
this much of the beauty of the casserole depends. If the rice be not
sufficiently boiled, and effectually worked into a smooth paste, it becomes
a difficult matter to mould it: and any apparent roughness would spoil
the look of the casserole.


268 CASSEROLES OF RICE.
For a casserole of ordinary tize, wash about a pound and a half of
Carolina rice in three waters, d.'ain it on a sieve, and put it into a stew-
pan with nearly twice its quantity of water, six ounces of butter, a
small ladleful of stock-pot toppings and a piece of raw ham; cover
with a circular piece of buttered paper and the lid, and set the rice to
boil on the stove, after which it must be put in the oven, or on a smoth-
ered stove-fire, to simmer very gently. During the time that the rice
remains on the fire, it should be carefully turned over with a spoon twice
or thrice. When all the grains become perfectly soft, the rice must be
worked into a firm, compact paste, with the bowl of a large wooden
spoon; it should next be rolled into the form of a ball, and placed on
a baking-sheet, previously covered with a circular piece of buttered
paper, and shaped to the height and circumference desired. Next, for
the purpose of imprinting upou the casserole the ornamental mouldings
represented in the annexed illustrations, it will be necessary to cut a
piece of turnip, carrot, or raw potato, in the form of a chisel, to be
nsed for indenting or moulding the design.
When the casserole is moulded, it must be sprinkled over with a
paste-brush dipped in clarified butter, and afterward baked of a fine
yellow color; the interior must then be removed with a spoon, leaving
the walls of the crust about half-an-inch thick; smooth the inside of
the rice with the back of a table-spoon dipped in water, and keep the
casserole in a dry place till it is wanted for use.
778. CASSEROLE OF RICE, A LA POLONAISE.
Prepare a purie of fowls (No. 1009), and when on the point of
sending to table; stir it over the fire until it is sufficiently hot, care
being taken to prevent its becoming rough; then fill the casserole with
the puree, place eight eggs (previously boiled four minutes, and the
shells removed), round the top of the puree; between each egg, put a
small fillet of fowl, decorated with tongue or truffle, sauce the surface
of the puree with some Supreme (No. 38), and serve.
779. CASSEROLE OF RICE, A LA REINE.
This must be garnished with a. purie of fowls in a similar manner to
the foregoing, and a border of quenelles of fowl placed round the inner
edge of the surface; sauce with Supreme, glaze the casserole with
light-colored glaze, and serve.
780. CASSEROLE OF RICE, GARNISHED WITH A PUREE OF
GAME, A LA BELLE-VUE.
Just before dinner-time, warm the puree of game (No. 1090) pre-
pared for the purpose, garnish the casserole of rice with it, place round
the inner edge of the surface a border of very small fillets (decorated
contises with truffles or tongues), of the kind of game the purie is
made from, pour a little Allemande sauce over the centre of the purie,
glaze the casserole lightly, and serve.
781. CASSEROLE OF RICE, GARNISHED WITH WINGS OF
FOWL, A L'ALLEMANDE.
The casserole of rice must be garnished with a ragout of wings of
fowls (No. 208), to which may be added some small truffles and
mushrooms; ornament it with a border of large cocks'-combs, and


BORDERS OF POTATO-PASTE. 269
icollops of red tongue eut in the form of cocks'-eombs, placed
alternately round the inner edge of the casserole, glaze it lightly, and
serve.
Note.—Casseroles, or Borders 'of rice may also be garnished with
fricassee of chickens, lamb's-feet, blanquetles of sweethreads or fowls,
and with all kinds of scollops whether of poultry, game or fish.
ORNAMENTAL BORDERS OF POTATO PASTE,
COMPRISING
Border of Potato-paste, garnished with Border of Potato-paste, garnished with Scoi-
Scollops of Larks and lops of Sheep's tongues,
Truffles. with fine-herbs.
"garnished with Lamb's- "garnished with Calf's Brains,
Feet, d la Paacatiue. d la Ravigottc
"garnished with Ox Pal- ,
ates, a I'lndifnne.
782. BORDER OF POTATO-PASTE, GARNISHED WITH SCOLLOPS
OF LARKS AND TRUFFLES.
A rorder of potato-paste resembles in a great measure a casserole
of rice, and is prepared as follows:—
For an ordinary size entree, fifteen large potatoes should be baked,
and their pulp afterward rubbed through a fine wire-sieve upon a
dish; this must be put into a middle-sized stewpan with four ounces
of butter, the yolks of six eggs, a little grated nutmeg, pepper and salt
.
Stir the whole with a wooden spoon over a slow fire until the mixture
becomes a smooth compact paste; it should then be rolled into a ball,
placed on a baking-sheet, and shaped to the height and circumference
designed. The border should now be moulded in the same way as a
casserole of rice, for which purpose consult the mouldings represented
in the designs of casseroles of rice (No. 777), and are to be executed
with a piece of raw carrot or turnip, cut in the form of a chisel.
When the border is moulded, it should be egged over with a soft
paste-brush, and baked in an oven, of a light yellow color; when
done, part of the inside must be removed, and the cavity smoothed
over with the back of the bowl of a spoon. The border ought to be
kept in a dry place till wanted for use. Put the border in the screen
or hot closet to get warm, five minutes before sending to table ; garnish
it with a ragout of scollops of larks and truffles (No. 205), place a
border of small quenelles of fowl round the edge, lightly glaze the
border, pour a little of the sauce round the base and serve.
783. BORDER OF POTATO-PASTE, GARNISHED WITH LAMBS*
FEET, A LA PASCALINE.
Procure a dozen lamb's-feet ready scalded, remove the shin-bone,
parboil them for five minutes, immerse them in cold water, drain them
on a napkin to absorb the water, then stick them one at a time upon
the point of an iron skewer, and singe off the hair (if not already re-
moved by scalding), over the flame of a charcoal fire. Next, braize


270
BORDERS OF POTATO-PASTE.
them gently in some blanc (No. 236), for about three-quarters of an
hour. When the feet are done, drain them on a napkin, cut out the
black substance to be found between the cushions of the hoof, trim
them neatly without waste, and put. them into a stew-pan with a little
of their own liquor. Five minutes before sending to table, pour off
the liquor from the feet, previously warmed, then add half a pottle of
prepared button-mushrooms, and enough Pasvaline sauce (No. 15) for
the enlrie; toss the whole together over the stove-fire for two minutes,
and garnish the border of potato-paste with this ragout; glaze the
border lightly, and serve.
784. BORDER OF POTATO-PASTE, GARNISHED WITH SCOLLOPS
OF OX-PALATES, A L'lNDIENNE.
Prepare the ox-palates according to the directions contained in
(No. 209), add enough well-reduced Indian curry sauce (No. 47) for
the entree, warm the ragout and garnish the border of potato with it,
lust before sending to table.
Some plain boiled patna must be served in a plate.
785. BORDER OF POTATO-PASTE, GARNISHED WITH SCOLLOPS
OF SHEEP'S-TONGUES, WITH FINE-HERBS.
Scald eight sheep's tongues effectually, so as to be able to remove
the outer skin easily; then trim them, and afterward put them into
a stew-pan with a carrot, an onion stuck with four cloves, a garnished
faggot of parsley, and a dozen pepper-corns; moisten with a quart of
broth, and set them to braize gently for about an hour. When done,
drain them on a dish, and set them in the larder to get cold, afterward
to be cut into neat circular scollops; put these into a stewpan with
half a pottle of prepared button-mushrooms, and enough well-reduced
fine-herbs sauce (No. 14), for the entrie; toss these together over the
stove-fire to warm them thoroughly, then garnish the border of potato-
paste with this ragout, glaze it round, and serve.
786. BORDER OF POTATO-PASTE, GARNISHED WITH CALF'S
BRAINS, A LA RAVIGOTTE.
Steep two sets of calf's-brains in tepid water for several hours to
cleanse them, and as soon as the thin membrane which covers the
brains becomes loosened, detach it gently with the fingers; change
the water frequently, and when the brains have become comparatively
white, put them into a stewpan with a quart of boiling water, half a
gill of vinegar, some sliced carrot, onion, parsley, thyme, bay-leaf,
mignionette-pepper, and salt; alllow them to boil gently by the side
of the fire for twenty minutes, then remove the brains carefully with
a large spoon into another stewpan, pass their liquor through a sieve
on them, and set them aside till within twenty minutes of dinner-time.
The brains must then be warmed in their liquor, and afterward cut
into thick scollops lengthwise, and placed in the border of potato in
circular order, overlapping each other; pour a Bavigotle sauce (No. 21)
over the brains, glaze the border, and serve.


271
CHARTREUSES OF VEGETABLES,
of Vegetables, with Partridges. Chatfrtm of Vegetables, with
„ with Quails. VeaL



787. CHARTREUSE OP VEGETABLES, GARNISHED WITH PAR-
TRIDGES.
Scrape eight large carrots, and parboil them in water with a little
Bait for ten minutes; then put them to boil in some broth with a little
sugar and salt, and a small pat of butter; when done, place them on
a dish in the larder to get cold. In the mean time, eight large turnips
should be peeled, and boiled in the same way as the carrots, and then
put on a dish to cool. Next, a"plain round mould must be lined with
buttered paper, and the prepared carrots and turnips cut into appro-
priate forms or shapes for the purpose of arranging them over the
bottom and round the inside of the monld, taking care that they fit in
with each other, so as to represent any of the foregoing designs.
Meanwhile parboil three large savoy cabbages in water; then immerse
thera in cold water, after which squeeze the moisture from them;
spread them upon a napkin on the table, take out the cores, season
with mignionette-pepper and salt, and tie each np with a string.. Then,
put the cabbages into a large stewpan with three partridges trussed
with their legs inside, one pound of streaky bacon (previously par-
boiled), and two large saveloys; season with two onions stuck with
four cloves, two carrots, and a garnished faggot; moisten with three
pints of stock, cover with a buttered paper, put on the lid, and set
them to braize gently for about two honrs, if the birds are young, or
three hours if not. When doue, drain the cabbage into a colander,


272 CHARTREUSES OF VEGETABLES.
ut the partridges, bacon, and saveloys on a dish to cool; squeeze the
roth from the cabbage by pressing it tightly in a strong kitchen rub-
s ber; then chop it and afterwards put it into a stewpan with a spoonful
of brown sauce, and stir it quickly over a brisk fire until it resembles a
somewhat firm paste. Use this preparation to garnish the bottom and
sides of the chartreuse, about an inch thick. The partridges must be
cat up neatly into small members, tossed in enough brown sauce to
moisten them, and then placed in the cavity of the chartreuse in close
order, so as to give it solidity when turned out of the mould on its
dish; a layer of prepared cabbage should be placed over these, and
the whole covered with a circular piece of buttered paper. An hour
before dinner, the chartreuse must be placed in a stewpan with suffi-
cient water to reach up only one-third the height of the mould; then
set the lid on, and put the stewpan near or upon a slow fire to keep the
water gently simmering, so that-the steam may warm the chartreuse
through. When about to serve, turn the chartreuse up-side-down in
the dish, and draw the mould off with care, remove the paper, and
garnish the base with a close border of the bacon and saveloys cut into
scollops; pour some brown sauce (worked with essence of vegetables)
round the entree, glaze the chartreuse carefully, so as not to disturb
the order of the vegetables, and serve.
These directions will serve for the preparation of several kinds of
chartreuses: pheasants, ducklings, pigeons, &c, being substituted for
partridges.
788. CHARTREUSE OF VEGETABLES, GARNISHED WITH QUAILS, ETC.
The preparation of this kind of chartreuse is very similar to the
foregoing, cabbage-lettuces being substituted for savoys; the following
are the only alterations required: the mould required must be either
oval or round, according to the shape of the dish intended to be nsed,
and should be lined with buttered paper, and ornamented with carrots
and turnips prepared according to the directions given in the first part
of the previous article, and afterwards cut out, either with a small knife,
or proper-shaped tin-cutters, to suit the design intended to be repre-
sented, from one of the patterns given in the foregoing designs. The
cavity left in the mould, after it has been decorated with the vegeta-
bles, must be filled up with the braized cabbage lettuces warmed in the
same manner as directed for the last-mentioned chartreuse.
When about to send to table, turn the chartreuse out on its dish,
place the quails (prepared as for a pati-chaud, No. 759, and kept warm)
upon the upper part of the chartreuse, with their breasts outward;
fill the centre of the entree with a Jardiniere of vegetables (No. 144),
garnish the base with small scollops of the streaky bacon and saveloys,
pour some thin bright Espagnole sauce round the entr&e, glaze the
chartreuse lightly, and serve.
789. CHARTREUSE OF VEGETABLES, GARNISHED WITH TENDONS
OF VEAL AND STEWED PEAS.
In this case the chartreuse should be prepared in the same manner
as described in the foregoing recipe; and when turned out on its dish
preparatory to serving it, the top of the border must be garnished
with braized tendons of veal (No. 885), placed in the same way as cut-
lets are dished up ; the well or centre of the entrie, must be filled with


CHARTREUSES OF VEGETABLES.
273
stewed peas, then pour some brown sauce round the base, glaze toe
chartreuse, and serve.
This kind of chartreuse may be garnished with scollops of pheasants,
partridges, larks, &c; and also with blanquettes of fowls, lambs' sweet-
breads, &c The ornamental part of these entrees may be much varied,
by using asparagus-heads, green-peas, French-beans, artichoke-bottoms,
glazed button-onions, carrots, and turnips turned in fanciful shapes
and forms. A good effect is produced by arranging a decoration in
relief on the top of the chartreuse after it has been turned out of the
mould on to its dish: its base may also be garnished with alternate
groups of vegetables cut in small fanciful shapes and prepared in the
usual manner.
FORCE-MEAT CHARTREUSES,
Chartreuse, (J la Parisiene.
n a la Belle Vue.
COMPRISING
Chartreuse, d la Cardinal.

*^~ i"'
790. CHARTREUSE, A LA PARISIENNE.
First prepare some quenelle force-meat (No. 242), with the fillets
of three fowls; trim the tails of sixty boiled crayfish, trim also eight
inner or minion fillets of fowls, and
then simmer these in a little clari-
fied butter and lemon-juice over the
fire till they are done; then put
them on a plate covered with thin
layers of fat bacon, to keep them
moist, until they are wanted for fur-
ther use.
Next butter a large-sized char-
lotte-mould, and dispose round the
inner angle of the bottom a close
border of crayfish-tails; while up
the sides of the mould, some long strips, or pipes,,of black truffle (cut
out with a tin vegetable cutter), must be arranged alternately with
the prepared fillets of fowls, so as to form a decoration representing
the "Grecian-key border;" round the top of this, which, when the
mould is turned upside down, forms the base, place another close
border of crayfish tails; after which, the bottom and sides of the
chartreuse must be lined with a coating of the prepared quenelle force-
meat, thus :—Butter a circular piece of paper, cut exactly to the size
of the mould, and spread thereon a layer of the force-meat an inch
thick; smooth this over with a knife dipped in hot water, and then,
with great care, take hold of the sides of the paper with both hands,
and tarn it upside down into the mould: pass the bottom of a small
bain-marie filled with hot water over the paper, that the butter may
become melted, by which the paper will be easily removed. Next,
cat three pieces of paper to fit in with each other, so as effectually to
line the mould; butter these, and then spread them with force-meat,
•a directed for the bottom piece, and apply them in the same way.
17


274 FORCE-MEAT CHARTREUSES.
Then smooth the'cavity with a spoon dipped in hot water, and fill it
to within an inch of its surface with a thickly-garnished ragout a la
Toulouse, cold (No. 187). Cover in the top with force-meat, leaving
the piece of paper on, and keep the chartreuse in a cool place till
within two hours of dinner-time. It should then be put to steam in
a deep stewpan, containing sufficient water to reach nearly half way
up the mould. The water must be kept continually boiling by the
side of a slow fire, and the stewpan covered with its lid containing live
embers of charcoal.
When the chartreuse is done, turn it out of the mould carefully into
its dish; cover the top with a border of button-mushrooms, placed
near the edge, and in the centre put a star, formed with eight very
small fillets of fowl, decorated with black truffles (previously turned
in the Torm of a crescent, on a buttered santa-pan, covered with very
thin layers of fat bacon, and gently simmered in the oven for three
minutes); garnish the base of the chartreuse with some thin Toulouse
ragout, glaze the sides lightly, and serve.
791. CHARTREUSE, A LA BELLE-VUE.
Butter smoothly the inside of a plain cylinder mould, and dispose
round the bottom and sides a bold
decoration, formed with black truf-
fles and red tongue; after which
carefully fill up the interior of the
mould with some very delicate que-
nelle force-meat, prepared from the
fillets of three partridges. About
an hour before dinner-time, the
chartreuse must be put on to steam,
as in the foregoing case; when done,
torn it out on to its dish; fill the
centre with a ragout of scollops of
fillets of partridges, with the addition of some prepared truffles, cocks'-
combs, and kernels in a rich Maderia sauce (No. 8); glaze the char-
treuse, and serve.
792. CHARTREUSE, A LA CARDINAL.
First, trim the fillets of three pairs of soles, and conlises them with
scollops of the outside part of lobster-tails. Prepare some lobster
quenelle force-meat (No. 246), in
which mix the fillets of two whit-
ings. Then, butter the inside of a
plain charlotte-mould, and dispose
therein the prepared fillets of soles,
as represented in the annexed illus-
tration; next, line the bottom and
sides of the chartreuse with some of
the lobster force-meat, in the same
way as directed for the chartreuse d
la Parisienne; fill the cavity with a
Parisian ragout (No. 303), the sauce
of which must be kept stiff, and used cold for this purpose; cover in
*he top with a layer of force-meat, and steam the chartreuses for one


BREAD CROUSTADES.
275
hour and a half; when done, place it upside down on its dish, and
draw the mould off carefully, in order to avoid disturbing the fillets.
Garnish the edges of the chartreuse with a close border of small round
truffles, and in the centre arrange a neatly-formed group of trimmed
crayfish-tails, previously warmed in a little glaze and lobster coral
butter; pour some Parisian ragout (No. 203) round the base, and
serve.
ORNAMENTAL CROUSTADES OP BREAD,
COMPRISING
Ornamental CrStutadre. CrSustade of Bread, with Scollops of Fat
Criiutada of Bread, garrlsh-d with Calves' Liver*, a d I Epicurif nn*.
tails, <2 In PoulelU. „ „ with Quails, d la Buur-
„ „ with Lambs' brains, guiguotte.
in JIaielottt Sauce.
793. ORNAMENTAL CROUSTADES.
For a crdustade of ordinary dimensions, a 4lb. loaf of close bread
shoqld be procured two days before it is wanted for use, as it must bo
stale for this purpose. In order to prevent waste, the loaf should be
baked in an oval, square, or round tin case, according to the intended
form of the crdustade; and when this is required for a remove or
flank dish, the loaf must be made of a proportionate size.
When the crust has been pared off the loaf with a sharp knife, it
mast be carved in the form of a fluted or chased vase or cup, accord-
ing to the following patterns:


BREAD CROUSTADES.
The crbustade thus carved, must next be fried of a light fawn color,
in some clean hog's-lard, made quite hot for the purpose, the inside
crumb carefully taken out, and the cavity smoothly covered with a
thin coating of quenelle force-meat: the object of which is to prevent
the escape or absorption of the sauce from the entree, afterward placed
in it: when this is done, the crbustade must be put in the oven for five
minutes, to bake the quenelle force-meat, and to be kept hot nntil
served. •
794. CROUSTADE OF BREAD, GARNISHED WITH CALVES'-TAILS,
A LA POULETTE.
Scald two calves'-tails with the skin on, in the same way as calves-
heads; cut these up in joints, parboil them in water for five minutes,
and then immerse them in cold water; after which drain them on a
napkin, trim and place them in a stewpan with some blanc (No. 235),
or failing this, with a carrot, an onion, garnished faggot of parsley,
four cloves, a blade of mnce, and twelve peppercorns; moisten with
three pints of broth, or water, in which latter case add some salt; and
set them to boil gently for about an hour by the side of the stove-fire.
When the tails are done, drain them on a napkin, trim them neatly,
and place them in the croustade in pyramidal form, pour over them a
rich sauce a la pouleiie, containing two dozen button-mushrooms;
garnish the inner edge of the crbustade with u border of fluted scollops
of red tongue, glaze a large black truffle, place it on the top, and
serve.
795. CROUSTADE OF BREAD, GARNISHED WITH LAMBS' BRAINS,
IN MATELOTTE SAUCE.
The brains must be prepared as directed in .No. "T86, and when
they are done, put to drain upon a napkin, preparatory to their being
cut into scollops, and afterward placed in circular order in the crous-
tade. Pour a matelotte sauce (No. 31), made in this case of white wine
with a little cayenne and lemon-juice, and containing some small
button-onions, previously simmered in butter, 3 oz. of truffles cut in
scollops, a dozen small quenelles, a few mushrooms, hnd trimmed cray-
fish-tails; crown the top with six large crayfish, between which place
a fried crouton of bread, cut in the shape of a leaf; in the centre of
these, put a large truffle, and serve.
796. CROUSTADE OF BREAD, GARNISHED WITH SCOLLOPS OF FAT
LIVERS, A L'EPICURIENNE.
When about to send the crbustade to table, garnish it with i ragout
of fat livers, prepared as follows:—
Wrap two Strasbourg livers in thin layers of fat bacon, and simmer
them very gently in a wine mirepoix (No. 236) for half an hour; then
remove the stewpan from the fire, and allow the livers to cool in their
liquor; they must now be taken out, cut into scollops without waste,
and placed in a small deep sautapan, containing 4 oz. of black
Perigord truffles cut into scollops, a dozen small quenelles of game, and
a few button-mushrooms; to these add about half the mirtpoix, freed
from every particle of grease, and set the whole to boil briskly over
the fire until the moisture be reduced to a glaze; next, pour in some


TURBANS AND MAZARINES. 277
brown fine-herbs sauce (No. 14), in sufficient quantity for the entrie,
toss the whole together over the fire, and use this ragout as directed
above. A border of large double white cocks'-combs may be placed
round the edge of the crdustade, and a fine large Perigord truffle in
the centre.
797. CROUSTADE OF BREAD, GARNISHED WITH QUAILS AU
GRATIN, A LA BOURGUIGNOTTE.
Let a crduslade be cut in the form of a cup, not more than five
inches high, the carving of which must present eight bold fluted
scollops at the upper part, and be brought to a tapering point toward
the foot, as represented in one of the foregoing illustrations. When
the crdustade has been fried, the inner crumb must be removed, and the
'cavities lined with a well-seasoned farce of fat livers (No. 249), pre-
viously prepared for the purpose, leaving sufficient room for the
insertion, in each of the scolloped flutes, of a quail that has been boned
and filled with some of the farce, then trussed and partially braized;
these must then be neatly garnished round with some of the farce,
covered over with thin layers of fat bacon, and a thick band of but-
tered paperj secured with string, round the crdustade, to prevent it from
acquiring more color while in the oven. About an hour before dinner-
time, set the crdustade in a moderately-heated oven, to be baked. Just
before sending it to table, remove the paper and bacon, absorb all the
grease with the corner of a clean napkin, and place it carefully on its
dish. On the breast of each quail place a very small fillet of fowl of
circular form, contises or decorated with black truffle, and then sim-
mered in a buttered sautapan, covered with thin layers of bacon, to
keep them white; between each quail place a large white cocks'-comb,
fill the centre with a Bourguignotle ragout (No. 195), finished with the
addition of some extract made from the carcasses of the quails, reduced
to glaze, and serve.
Note.—Ornamental crdustades of bread may also be garnished with
purie of fowls a la Reine, ditto of game a la Polonaise, &c.; and with
almost every kind of ragout or garnish directed to be used for pdies-
chauds, voVau'venls, borders of rice and potato-paste, for which see
those articles.
TURBANS AND MAZARINES,
COMPRISING
Turban of Ox-palates, A la Ptrigucux. Turban of Fillets of Harea, a la Conli.
„ Fillet* of Fowls, & la Prince „ Fillets of Soles, d la Ximenu.
tie QalUi. Mazarine of Whitings, d la Venitiinne.
„ Fillets of Rabbits, A la Finan- „ Fat Livers, d (a Touloute.
dire.
798. TURBAN OF OX-PALATES, A LA PERIGUEUX.
Braize eight ox-palntes, and when doae, place them between two
diahes, to press them flat; prepare about 2 lbs. of gralin force-meat


278
TURBANS AND MAZARINES.

(No. 249); decorate or contises twelve minion fillets of fowls, and cover
them with thin layers of bacon till wanted.
Next, roll out about 4 oz. of firm common paste, to the size of a
dessert-plate, and bake it in a slack oven; this is to serve for a foun-
dation to raise the entree upon. Next, trim the ox-palates, split each
in two with a sharp knife, in the same way as thin layers of bacon are
cat; trim eight of these, spread
the rough side with a thin
layer of the gratin force-meat,
then roll them up; put the
piece of paste before alluded to
on a round baking-sheet; spread
it with a layer of the force-
meat, a quarter of an inch thick,
and after having trimmed the
rolled ox-palates, to make them
fit in with each other in cir-
cular order, place them firmly
together on the fonndation of
paste prepared to receive them,
taking care to put a little force-meat between each, to fill up the fissures,
and unite them; upon each fissure, one of the decorated fillets must
be neatly laid, and .turned under to secure it. The remaining eight
pieces of ox-palates must then be trimmed, garnished with force-meat
like the former, and afterward cut to the size of two-thirds of the
others, and with these smaller rolls of ox-palates, a second tier must be
formed upon the first, in similar fashion, and upon each joining, a
decorated fillet is to be placed likewise. Any roughness occasioned by
the force-meat must be neatly smoothed over with a knife, dipped in
water; a thick carrot, or piece of bread, cut in the shape of a pillar,
and covered with fat bacon, should be placed in the centre of the entrie,
to support its shape while being baked. The whole of the turban must
be covered in with thin layers of fat bacon, and these must be secured
on by means of a thick band of buttered paper, cut in slits round the
base (to enable it to fit closer), and secured round the entree with
string: this will serve also to keep the turban in shape. One hour and
a half before dinner-time, put the turban in the oven to be baked;
when done, remove the paper, &c, and with the end of a large skimmer,
place the turban on its dish, fill the centre with a ragout of small
truffles, pour some Perigueux sauce (No. 28) round the base of the
entrie, lightly glaze the palates, without touching the fillets—which
must be kept as white as possible—and serve.
799. TURBAN OF FILLETS OF FOWLS, A LA PRINCE DE GALLE8.
Prepare some quenelle force-meat of fowls (No. 242) or veal; and
with part of it fill a plain cylindrical mould, measuring about lour
inches high and six in diameter, previously buttered inside. This
must be steamed in a covered stewpan, with a little water in it; and
when done, turned out of the mould upon a plate, and allowed t j cool;
it should then be placed upon a foundation of baked paste, the
angles of the quenelle rounded, and the whole of it covered with a thin
coating of force-meat: upon this turban of quenelle, six larded fillets
of fowls should be placed, with the point made to turn over the top;


TURBANS AND MAZARINES. 279

between each of these, insert a decorated minion fillet; cover the
latter with thin layers of fat bacon,
and secure the entree round with a
band of buttered paper made fast
with string. Three quarters of an
hour before dinner-time, put the
turban in the oven to be baked;
when it is done, remove the paper
and the bacon from the small fillets,
glaze the larded fillets brightly, gar-
nish the well of the entree with a
Parisian ragout (No. 203), pour
some of the same round the base,
and serve.
800. TURBAN OF FILLETS OF RABBITS, A LA FINANCIERE.
Take out the fillets from four rabbits, trim and lard them closely.
With the flesh of the legs, prepare some quenelle force-meat, and use
part of this to make a cylindrical foundation, as in the foregoing case;
when cold trim the top of this round, and after it has been spread
with a thin coating of the force-meat, lay the larded fillets round its
sides in a slanting position, with the small end of each turned over at
the top, and made to reach about an inch down the cylinder; between
each fillet of rabbit, a closely-studded row of cock's-kernels must be
deeply inserted in the coating of quenelle force-meat, and these should
be covered with thin strips of fat bacon to keep them white. A but-
tered band of paper must be placed round the turban, and secured with
string. An hour before dinner-time, put the turban in the oven to be
baked; when it is done, remove the paper, glaze the larded fillets, and
afterwards pick the bacon off the kernels without disturbing them; fill
the centre of the entrie with a Financiere ragout (No. 188), pour
some round the base, and serve.
801. TURBAN OF FILLETS OF HARES, A LA CONTI.
Take out the fillets of three young hares, and by splitting each fillet
into halves, lengthwise, of equal thickness, twelve fillets will be obtained;
these must then be neatly trimmed and contises from one end to the
other with scollops of black truffles. Use the flesh of the legs to
prepare some quenelle force-meat; and, as in the foregoing cases, a
foundation must be made with part of this, to raise the turban upon it.
When the cylinder of force-meat has been poached or steamed, and is
cold enough, place it upon the foundation of paste, trim the top round,
and spread it over with a coating of force-meat; lay the decorated
fillets of hare slantingly round the sides with their tapering points
secured inside the cylinder with a little force-meat, and cover the
turban with thin layers of fat bacon, secured round with a band of
paper in the usual way. An hour before dinner-time, put the turban
in the oven to be baked, and when it is done, remove the paper and
bacon, dish it up, fill the centre with scollops of black truffles and white
niu-lu nuns, pour some brown Italian sauce (No. 12) over and round
the entree, and serve.
Note.—The two foregoing entrees may be varied in their appearance,


280
TURBANS AND MAZARINES.

by larding one-half of the fillets, and decorating the remainder with
truffles or red tonguo.
802. TURBAN*OF FILLETS OF SOLES, A LA XIMENES.
Trim the fillets of four middle-sized soles, contises half with red
tongue, and the remainder with thin scollops of green Indian gherkins;
prepare some quenelle force-meat with four whitings, with part of which
make a cylindrical foundation in the manner described for the fillets
of fowls a la Prince de Galles. Spread a coating of force-meat over
this, and then place the fillets of
soles round it in a slanting position,
alternating those decorated with
tongue with the others; the fillets
must be neatly turned under the
base, and securely fastened inside
the cylinder with the point of a
knife and a little force-meat. Cover
the turban with thin layers of fat
bacon, and fasten a band of buttered
paper round it with string. An
hour before dinner-time, put tho
tuban in the oven to be baked;
when it is done, remove the pnper
and bacon, place the turban ^carefully on its dish, garnish the centre
*ith a ragout of muscles (No. 197), pour some Tomata sauce (No. 22)
round the base, and serve.
803. MAZARINE OF WHITINGS, A LA VENITIENNE.
Prepare some quenelle force-meat with the fillets of five whitings,
and mix therewith a large gravy-
spoonful of puree of mushrooms
(No. 122), some chopped parsley,
two ounces of black truffles also
chopped, and two whisked whites
of eggs. Next, butter a plain round
mould, line the inside with white
paper, and then fill it with the force-
meat. An hour before dinner-time,
steam the mazarine in the usual
way, and when done, turn it out of
the mould on its dish; place a
border of contises fillets of whitings
round the top, fill the centre with a
ragout of crayfish-tails and muscles, pour some Venetian sauce (No. 26),
round the sides of the mazarine, and serve.
804. MAZARINE OF FAT LIVERS, A LA TOULOUSE.
Procure two fine Strasbourg fat livers, cut therefrom twelve flat
scollops in the form of fiat fingers, and with the trimmings make some
force-meat (No. 249). Next line a plain round mould with buttered
white paper, and then fill it with the prepared ingredients thus:
Spread a layer of force-meat half an inch thick at the bottom of the


ENTREES OF BEEF. 281
mould, then line the sides in a similar manner; place the scollops of
fat livers in a perpendicular position, fill up the interstices with
scollops of French truffles and the remainder of the force-meat, and
cover the top with buttered paper. An hour and a half before dinner-
time, steam the mazarine in a deep stewpan with a little water, and
cover it with its lid containing live embers of charcoal. Care must be
taken to prevent the water from boiling over into the mould. When
the mazarine is done, turn it out of the mould on its dish, place a
border of minion fillets of fowls decorated with truffles, curled round
in rings, and simmered in butter, fill the centre with a rich Toulouse
ragout (No. 187), pour some Madeira sauce (No. 8), over the entree,
and serve.
ENTREES OF BEEF,
COMPKISING
Plain Bump Steak, Minced Beef, a la Portugaiie.
Beef Steak, d la Franfnite. Hashed Beef, plain.
„ willi Anchovy-butter. Hashed Beef, and broiled Bones.
Fillets of Beef in their own glaze, Ao. Braized Beef, d la Claremont.
Minced Beef, with Poached Eggs. Bubble and Squeak.
805. PLAIN BUMP STEAK.
The steak should be cut rather thick, neatly trimmed, seasoned with
a little pepper and salt, and boiled over a clear fire; i when done,
remove it carefully from the gridiron, in order to preserve the gravy
which collects on its upper surface. Place the steak on its dish, rub
a small pat of fresh butter over it, garnish round with grated horse-
radish, and send some beef gravy separately in a sauce-boat. Epicures,
however, prefer the gravy which runs out of a juicy steak when well
broiled to any other addition.
Small ribs of beef, and especially steaks cut from between the small
ribs, form an excellent substitute for rump-steaks; both, when nicely
broiled, may be served with cold Maitre d'Hdlel butter, anchovy ditto;
and also with the following sauces: Brown oyster, muscles, Italian,
Piquante, Poor-man's, Poivrade, Tomata, Provengale, Fine-herbs,
&c; for making which, see Special Sauces.
806. BEEFSTEAK, A LA FRANCAISE.
Cut one pound of trimmed fillet of beef across the grain of the meat
into three pieces; flatten these with the cutlet-bat, and trim them of a
round or oval form; tnen cut and trim three pieces of suet, half the size
of the former: dip the steaks in a little clarified butter, season with
pepper and salt, and place them on the gridiron over a clear fire to
broil; when done, glaze them on both sides, dish them up on two
ounces of cold Maitre d'Hdlel butter (No. 44), garnish round with
fried potatoes, and serve.
These potatoes must be cut or turned in the form of olives, and fried
in a little clarified butter.


807. BEEFSTEAKS WITH ANCHOVY BUTTER.
These are prepared in the same way as the foregoiug, bat anchovy
butter must be substituted for Ma'Ure d'Hjtel.
Note.—French beef-steaks are always cut from the fillet, and may
be served with any of the savory butters described in this work; they
may also be garnished with Indian pickle, water-cresses, turned olives,
and with all the varieties of common pickles, or with either of the
sauces named for small rib-steaks.
808. FILLETS, OB SCOLLOPS, OF BEEF IK THEIB GLAZE.
Cut one pound of trimmed fillet of beef into four pieces, flatten and
trim these round or oval, season with pepper and salt, put them with a
like number of smaller pieces of beef-suet in a sauta-pan containing two
ounces of clarified butter. Ten minutes before sending them to table,
set the 6auta-pan on a brisk stove-fire, and fry the fillets of a brown
color; when they are done on both sides, pour off the grease, add a
table-spoonful of glaze and twice as much brown sauce, twenty mush-
rooms, with some of their liquor, and the juice of half a lemon; allow
the whole to boil for one minute on the fire, dish the fillets with a piece
of fat on each, place the mushrooms in the centre, and pour the sauce
over all.
Note.—Fillets of beef- prepared in this manner may be dressed with
either oysters, muscles, olives, truffles, gherkins cut into scollops, fried
onions, fine-herbs, morels, &c, added to the sauce after they have been
fried, instead of the mushrooms, as in the foregoing case. They may
also be served when finished, with the addition of a piece of glaze
and enough brown sauce for the entree, with every kind of puree
of vegetables and vegetable garnish described in this work; as
also with any of the sauces recommended to be served with broiled
steaks.
In all cases, the garnish of these entrees must be placed in the
centre of the fillets, in a conical form, and the sauce poured rouud
the fillets.
809. MINCED BEEF WITH POACHED EGGS.
Pare the fat and skin off one pound of roast beef, cut it into thin
small slices, and then mince these very fine by chopping them. Put
the mince into a stewpan with two large gravy-spoonsful of brown
sauce, and a small piece of glaze, stir the whole over the fire until quite
hot, dish it up in a conical form, place six poached eggs round the
mince, pour a little brown sauce rouud the base, and serve.
For those who like high seasoning, some grated nutmeg, lemon-peel,
and Cayenne pepper may be added to the mince.
810. MINCED BEEF, A LA POBTUGUAISE.
Trim one pound of roast or braized beef, cut it up in pieces the
size of a finger, and then with a sharp knife mince these into small
shavings, and put them into a stewpan. Next, put two glasses of
Port wine into a stewpan with one chopped shalot, the rind of an
orange cut into small shreds, a little grated nutmeg, Cayenne pepper,


ENTREES OF BEEF. 283
and the jnice of half a lemon; boil these ingredients down to one-third
of their original quantity, add enough Enjjognole sauce for the entrie,
and mix the preparation with the minced beef; dish this up in a coni-
cal form, shake some light-colored raspings of bread-crust over it;
place a border round the base consisting of six poached eggs, the same
number of oval scollops of red tongue, and oval croutons fried in butter
of a light color and glazed. Pour some of the sauce reserved for the
purpose round the base, and serve.
811. HASHED BEEF, PLAIN.
Slice the beef up in very thin pieces, season with pepper and salt,
and shake a little flour over it. Next, chop a middle-sized onion, and
put it into a stewpan with a table-spoonful of Harvey sauce, and an
equal quantity of mushroom catsup; boil these together for two min-
utes, and then add halfa pint of broth or gravy; boil this down to
half its quantity, throw in the beef, set the hash to boil on the stove-
fire for five minutes longer, and then serve with sippets of toasted bread
round it when dished up. v
812. HASHED BEEF AND BROILED BONES.
Slice the beef up as in the foregoing case, and set it aside on a
plate. Cut the bones into pieces about two inches long or square,
having a little meat left on them; score them all over by making deep
incisions across them, season with plenty of pepper and a little salt,
and put them on a plate. Slice two onions and fry them brown, then
add enough brown sauce for the hash, or if there be none ready, shake
a table-spoonful of flour over the onions, stir this over the fire for a
minute, then add half a pint of good broth or gravy and a table-spoon-
ful of mushroom catsup; stir the whole on the tire until reduced to
two-thirds of the original quantity, add then rub it through a tammy
into a purie; mix this with the sliced beef, make the hash quite hot,
dish it up with the broiled bones (glazed) round it, and serve.
813. SLICES OF BRAIZED BEEF, A LA CLAREMONT.
This entrie, with its undermentioned varieties, may be served when
it happens that any braized beef remains from a previous day's
dinner.
The beef must be cut in rather thin round, or oval slices, placed in
a sautapan in neat order, and warmed with a gravy-spoonful of good
stock; these must then be dished up in a circle—overlapping each
other closely—pour some Clareinont sauce (No. 58) over them, and
serve.
Note.—Slices of braized beef warmed and dished up, as in the fore-
going case, may be greatly varied by being afterward garnished with
macaroni prepared with grated cheese, a little glaze and tomata-sauce,
also with all sharp sauces, with 'purees of vegetables, and with vege-
table garnishes. <
• 814. BUBBLE AND SQUEAK.
Cut some slices (not too thin) of cold boiled round, or edge-bone,
of salt beef; trim them neatly, as also an equal number of pieces of
the white fat of the beef, and set them aside on a plate. Boil two


ENTREES OF OX-CHEEKS.
summer or Savoy cabbages, remove the stalks, chop them fine, and put
them into a stewpan with four ounces of fresh butter and one ounce
of glaze; season with pepper and salt. When about to send to table,
fry the slices of beef in a sauta or frying pan, commencing with the
pieces of fat; stir the cabbage on the fire until quite hot, and then pile
it up in the centre of the dish; place the slices of beef and the pieces
of fat rouud it, pour a little brown sauce over the whole, aud serve.
ENTREES OP OX-CHEEKS,
Braized Ox-cheeks, with Purie of Green Braized Ox-etieeks, & la Provenqale.
Peas. „ „ irith stewed Cabbage.
„ & la Flamande. „ „ d la Jardiniere.
„ „ d la Brttunnt.
815. BRAIZED OX-CHEEK, WITH PUREE OF GREEN PEAS.
Bone an ox-cheek, and steep it in cold water for two hours; then
parboil it in water for five minutes, immerse it in cold water, drain, and
trim it, break up the bones, and put them at the bottom of an oval
stewpan, place the cheek upon them, and garnish with carrot, onion,
celery, garnished faggot of parsley, six cloves, a blade of mace, and
twelve pepper-corns; moisten with two quarts of broth or water (if
the latter, add some salt); set the ox-cheek to braize very gently by
the side of a stove-fire for about two hours; when done, take it up
carefully, and put it to press between two dishes. Half the broth may
be used for preparing some brown sauce with, and the remainder boiled
down to a half glaze. Next, cut the ox-cheek up into twelve pieces
of equal size, shape them either round, square, oblong, or oval; trim
them neatly, and place them in a sautapan with the half glaze. Tea
minutes before sending to table, put the ox-cheeks, covered with the
lid, to simmer gently on the stove-fire until they are warmed through,
and then set them to boil quickly over a brisk fire for three minutes;
roll them in their glaze, and afterward dish them up in a circle, closely
overlapping each other; fill the centre of the entree with some thick
puree of green peas (No. 136), pour a little brown sauce round the
base, and serve.
816. BRAIZED OX-CHEEK, A LA FLAMANDE.
This is prepared, cut, and dished up as in the foregoing. Between
each scollop of ox-cheek insert a piece of carrot previously boiled in
broth, and rolled in its own glaze; fill the centre with a garnish of
Brussels-spronts, round which place a neat border of prepared turnips
cut in fancy shapes; pour a little thin Espagnole sauce round the
entrie, and serve.
817. BRAIZED OX-CHEEK, A LA BRETONNE.
Prepare and dish up the pieces of ox-cheek as directed in the first
case; and just before sending to table, fill the centre with some puree
of potatoes (No. 116), pour some Bretonne sauce (No. 27) over the
pieces of ox-cheek, and serve.


OX-PALATES. 285
818. BRAIZED OX-CHEEK, A LA PBOVENCALE.
This when dished up must be garnished round the base with a
border of ripe tomatas prepared au gratin (No. 1160); fill the centre
of the entree with some Provengale sauce (No. 25), and serve.
819. BRAIZED OX-CHEEK, WITH STEWED CABBAGES.
When the ox-cheek is prepared for braizing, as directed in No. 816
about one pound of German sausage must be added, also half a
pound of streaky bacon, and two savoy-cabbages, previously cut in
halves, parboiled in water, the stalks removed, and afterward tied up
with string. The whole must be covered with a round buttered paper,
and set to braize gently for about two hours; as soon as it is done,
the ox-cheek should be put in press, and when cold cut into scollops and
placed in a sautapan with some half glaze; the bacon and sausage
must be also cut in neat scollops and kept hot in a santapan with a
little half glaze. The cabbage must first be drained in a colander,
and then pressed in a napkin, and afterward cut out in cork-shaped
pieces. The scollops of ox-cheek should be dished up in a close circle,
alternately placing a scollop of ox-cheek with the bacon and sausage:
and so on, until the whole is used up. Next, place the cabbage
round the base in a neat border, and upon each piece of cabbage set a
ring of carrot, with a piece of turnip cut in the form of a very small
pear, in its centre; fill the well of the entree with a garnish of carrots
and turnips, cut in very small fancy shapes, pour some Espagnole
sauce round the base and serve.
The carrots and turnips, above alluded to, must, of course, be boiled
in broth, with a little sugar, and afterward boiled down in their glaze.
820. BRAIZED OX-CHEEK, A LA JARDINIERE.
Braize, cut up, and dish the ox-cheek as directed in the first article;
then fill the centre of the entree with a garnish of vegetables a la
Jardiniere (No. 144), pour some half glaze or thin Espagnole sauce
round the base, and serve.
DRESSED OX-PALATES,
COMPRISING
Canelon• of Ox-palates, with Poivradt Carry of Ox-palates.
sauce Ox-palates in cases, with fine-herhs.
Panpiitta of Ox-palates d la FinancUre. Attereavx of Ox-palates, d la I)' Uxelltt
,
Ox-palates, d la Torlut.
821. CANELONS OF OX-PALATES, WITH FOIVRADE SAUCE.
Cleanse and braize six ox-palates, and put them in press, as di-
rected in No. 209, between two dishes until they are cold. The ox-pal-
ates must then be trimmed and split in halves, lengthwise; each.of these
must be again divided across in two, crosswise; the twenty-four pieces
thus produced should be laid upon a large dish, and covered on one side
only with some thick cold d'Uxelles sauce (No. 16). The canelons must
then be rolled up in the form of a cartridge, and each first dipped in
beaten egg (seasoned with a little salt) and afterward bread-crumbed.


286 ENTREES OF BEEF.
Jnst before sending to table, the canelone should be fried in some clean
hog's-lard, made quite hot for the purpose; they must be piled up in
the dish, in a pyramidal form, with green fried parsley in the centre,
round the base, and on the top. Send some Poivrade sauce (No. 29)
in a boat.
Note.—Instead of bread-crumbing the canelone, if preferred, they
may be dipped in a light-made batter, and then fried.
822. PAUPIETTES OF OX-PALATES, A LA FINANCIERE.
Braize and cut up the ox-palates as in the foregoing case; then
trim the twenty-four pieces thus produced into oblong scollops,
measuring about two inches by three and a half; lay these on an
earthen dish, and spread upon each a thin layer of quenelle force-meat
of veal or poultry, in which some fine-herbs have been mixed. The
ox-palates should then be rolled firmly in the form of cartridges, and
six of these, disposed lengthwise in a buttered sheet of writing paper,
must be rolled up tightly in it, and placed in a deep sautapau: the
remainder are to be finished in the same manner, and kept in the cool
until wanted. Half an hour before dinner-time set the paupiettea
on a stove-fire, at the same time adding to them about a quart of
boiling broth or consomme; as soon as they begin to boil, put the lid
on, and set them to simmer gently by the side of the stove-fire for
twenty minutes. The paupieltes must be drained on a napkin, the
ends of each neatly cut off, then placed in a sautapau with a little
half glaze, and again set on the fire to be rolled in this as it boils
down; after, they should be dished up in a pyramidal, or a conical
form, and a Financiere ragout (No. 188) poured over the entree, and
sent to table.
823. OX-PALATES, A LA TORTUE.
Braize the ox-palates as before directed, put them in press, and
wnen cold, stamp them out in scollops, with a circular tin cutter two
inches in diameter, and put them in a small deep sautapau with a little
of the sauce intended for the entree. Twenty minutes before sending
to table, make the scollops quite hot, and place them in neat order, in
and round the base of an ornamental crdustade of fried bread, pre-
viously prepared for the purpose, and made fast on the centre of the
dish, with a little paste made of flour and white of egg; dispose the
ragout a la tortus, omitting the pieces of calf's-head (No. 189) taste-
fully about the entree, and serve.
824. CURRY OF OX-PALATES.
Prepare the scollops of ox-palates, as in the foregoing case, and
put them in a good curry-sauce (No. 47). Just before sending to
table make the curry quite hot, and dish it up with boiled rice pressed
into a border-mould, and then turned out on its dish.
The above is the simplest manner of serving this entree, but it looks
much better when dressed with an ornamental rice border, in which
case some plain boiled Patna rice must be served separately.
825. ATTEREAUX OF OX-PALATES, A LA D'UXELLES.
Braize four ox-palates; when done put them in press between two
dishes; as soon as they are cold, trim both sides, cut them into inch-


OX-PITHS.
square scollops, and place these on a large earthen dish, together with
about half their quantity of square pieces of truffles and mushrooms;
peur some reduced D'Uxellea sauce (No. 16) over the whole, and
when the sauce has become set, run the scollops upon twelve small
silver skewers, intermixing the truffles and mushrooms alternately with
the ox-palates; gather the sauce from the dish with a knife, and spread
it upon the attereaux to give them a square, smooth form. They
must then be rolled in bread-crumbs, afterward dipped in beaten eggs,
and again bread-crumbed. Half an hour before sending to table, fry
the attereaux in cleau bog's lard, made hot for the purpose; dish them
up neatly with parsley, fried green and crisp, placed in the centre, and
serve.
• i
826. OX-PALATES IK CASES, WITH FINE-HERBS.
Prepare the ox palates in small circular scollops, and put them into
a stewpan containing about two-thirds of their quantity of scollops of
truffles and mushrooms; to these add sufficient reduced fine-herbs
sauce (No. 14) for the entree, mix the whole, and with this fill twelve
small square, or plaited circular paper cases, previously oiled and
baked in the oven for five minutes; cover them with a layer of rasp-
ings of bread, or bread-crumbs, fried of a light color, and place them
upon a baking-sheet covered with clean paper. About half an hour
before sending to table, put these cases in the oven to be baked, or
rather warmed through, and then dish them up on a folded napkin,
with fried parsley round the base of the entree, and serve.
OX-PITHS,
COXPRI9IXG
Ox-piths, i! la Rarigotlc. CrSiutades of Ox-pitha.
„ in eases, with fine-herbs.
827. OX-PITHS,* A LA RAVIGOTTE.
Procure about 1 lb. of ox-piths, steep them in water for a couple
of hours, wash them thoroughly, and then carefully remove the mem-
branous covering, and change the water. Next, slice up an onion
and a small carrot very thin, and put these into a stewpan with a
quart of hot water, mignionette pepper, and salt, a little thyme and
bay-leaf, three cloves, and a blade of mace, and half a gill of vinegar;
set these to boil on the fire, drop in the ox-piths, and allow them to
boil gently for ten minutes; then set them aside to cool. Drain them
on a napkin, and cut them in three-inch lengths, then place them in
a basin, with a few sprigs of parsley, three sliced shalots, some mignion-
ette pepper, and salt, three table-spoonsful of salad-oil, and one of
vinegar. The ox-piths must be left to steep in this pickle till within
about ten minutes of dinner-time, when they must be drained upon
a napkin, then dipped separately in some light batter, and fried
in clean hog's-lard made quite hot for the purpose. Dish them up
* The pith consists of the spinal marrow, which is more generally taken from sides
of baef; that taken from real and mutton is also occasionally used.


288 ENTREES OF BEEF.
with fried parsley, and send some Ravigotte sauce in a boat, to b6
handed round.
To save trouble, the piths, when fried, may be dished up without a
napkin or fried parsley, and the sauce poured under them. But in
this case, unless they are eaten as soon as dished up, the vapor arising
from the sauce destroys much of their crispucss.
Note.—Ox-piths, when fried according to the foregoing directions,
may also be served with any of the following sauces, viz:—Piquanle,
Poivrade, Italian, Tomata, &c
828. OX-PITHS IN CASES, WITH FINE-HERBS.
Prepare these, in the first instance, according to the directions con-
tained in the foregoing article. They must then be drained upon a
napkin, cut into inch lengths, and placed in a small stewpan, with
sufficient UUxelles sauce (No. 16) for the entree they should then be
gently mixed together, and put into about a dozen small square or
round paper cases, the surfaces of which are to be strewn with rasp-
ings, or fried bread-crumbs, and then placed upon a clean baking-
sheet. A bout twenty minutes before sending to table, put the cases
in th<> oven to get thoroughly warmed; dish them up neatly in a
pyramidal form, and serve some fine-herbs, or brown Italian sauce,
separately in a boat
.
829. CROUSTADES, OR PATTIES OF OX-PITHS.
In this case, the ox-piths must be prepared according to the first
part of the directions for dressing them a la Ravigotte; they must then
be cut into half-inch lengths, and placed in a small stewpan, with
about half their quantity of prepared mushrooms, and two artichoke
bottoms, previously cut into small dice; to this may be added some
fiuished Espagnole sauce (No. 3), a little cayenne, and lemon-juice;
warm the whole together on the stove-fire, and garnish the crouslade8,
or patties, with it.
OX-TONGUES,
COMPRISING
Ox-tongues, with Spinach. Ox-tongues, <J la Jardiniire.
„ with Brussels-sprouU. „ d I'Allemande.
„ d la M'tcC'luinc. „ with Sauer-Kraut.
830. OX-TONGUE, WITH SPINACH.
Procure a pickled tongue, run an iron skewer through it from the
root to the pointed end, tie a piece of string on one ene of the skewer,
and fasten it at the other, so as to keep it in shape. The tongue
should then be put on the fire in cold water, and kept gently boiling
for about three hours, when it must be taken up, and after removing
the outer cuticle, should be placed in the larder to cool; it should
then be neatly trimmed, wrapped in a piece of buttered paper, and
put into an oval stewpan, with a little common broth. Three-quar-


OX-TONGUE. 289
tere of an hour before sending it to table, put the tongue in the oven,
or on a slow fire, to get warmed through; then glaze it, and dish it
up with some prepared spinach (No. 112) round it, pour a little
Espagnole sauce, or some half-glaze round the base, and serve.
831. OX-TONGUE, WITH BRUSSELS SPROUTS.
This is prepared in the same manner as the foregoing, except that
Brussels sprouts (No. 1192) must be substituted for spinach.
832. OX-TONGUE, A LA MACEDOINE.
Prepare the tongue as in the foregoing cases, and when about to
send to table, glaze and dish it up with a white Maeedoine of vege-
tables (No. 143) placed neatly round it, and serve.
833. OX-TONGUE, A LA JARDINIERE.
The tongue, when dished up, must be garnished round with groups
of glazed carrots and turnips, cut in small fancy shapes, and boiled
in broth, with a pinch of sugar and a little salt, previously to their
being boiled down in their own glaze; these must be alternated with
similar groups of flowerets of cauliflowers, heads of asparagus-peas,
or French-beans cut in the form of diamonds and boiled green. Pour
some half glaze or Espagnole sauce round the base, and send to table.
834. BRAIZED OX-TONGUE, A LALLEMANDE
Scald a fresh ox-tongue in boiling water upon the fire for about
ten minutes; then immerse it in cold water, remove the root and
any superfluous fat. Next, place the tongue in an oval stewpan with
a carrot, an onion, one head of celery, a garnished faggot, four cloves,
and a blade of mace; add a glass of brandy and sufficient good broth
or stock to cover the whole, and set it to braize gently for two hours
and a half upon a slow fire. When the tongue is done, take it out of the
braize, trim and put it into a stewpan with its own liquor, previously
divested of all the grease, strained through a sieve, and boiled down
to half its quantity. About half an hour before sending to table, set
the tongue on a very slow fire to simmer until it is wprmed through;
roll it in its glaze, dish it up with some cherry sauce a la Victoria
(No. 64) under it, garnish it round with a border of potato quenelles
(No. 312), and serve.
835. OX-TONGUE, WITH SAUER-KRAUT.
Fob this purpose choose a smoked tongue, and let it soak in cold
water for four-and-twenty hours previously to its being dressed. The
tODgue must now be parboiled for half an hour, and immersed in cold
water; then remove the root, and truss it with a skewer and some
string to keep it in shape; next, place it in an oval stewpan with one
pound and a half of saulr-kraut (previously well washed in several
waters), two carrots, two onions stuck with six cloves, and a garnished
faggot of parsley; moisten with sufficient stockpot toppings to cover
the whole; place a well-buttered paper on the top, and cover with a
lid containing some live embers of charcoal; then set these to braize
very gently on a slow fire for about three hours. When the tongue
is done, take it up on a dish, trim it, and put it in a small oval stew-
pan with a little good stock, to be kept hot by the side of the stove.
18


290 ENTREES OF MUTTON.
Meanwhile, remove the carrot, onion, and faggot of parsley from the
muSr-kraut, and afterward press it in a napkin, to absorb all the
grease. Then glaze the tongne, and place it in its dish, garnish it
neatly round with the sauer-kraut and put a border of small turned
carrots (previously boiled and glazed for the purpose) round the base;
pour some Poivrade sauce over the whole, and serve.
Note.—Reindeer tongues may be dressed in the same manner as the
foregoing; they must, however, be soaked in cold water for four-and-
twenty hours previously to their being dressed.
ENTREES OF MUTTON.
1. Mutton Cutlets, sautees,
COMPniSINQ .
Mutton Cutlets, plain. Mutton Cutlets, with Purie of Endives, Ac.
„ d la Minute. „ d la Nivcmaise, Ac.
„ d In Mainltnon. „ with New Potatoes, Ac.
„ d la Bourguignotte.
836. MUTTON CUTLETS, PLAIN.
Choose a neck of mutton that has been killed at least four days,
saw off the scrag end, and as much of the rib-bones as may be neces-
sary in order to leave the cutlet-bones not more than three inches and
a half long; the spine-bones must also be removed with the saw,
without damaging the fillet. Next, cut the neck of mutton thus
trimmed into as many cutlets as there are bones; detach the meat
from the upper part of each bone, about three-quarters of an inch,
then dip them in water and flatten them with a cutlet-bat, trim away
the sinewy part, and any superfluous fat. The cutlets must then be
seasoned with pepper and salt, passed over with a paste-brush dipped
in clarified butter, and nicely broiled, over or before a clear fire.
When they are done, dish them up neatly, aud serve with plain brown
gravy under them.
Cutlets prepared in this way may also be served with either of the
following sauces—Poor-man's, Piquante, Italian, Tomata, Provengale,
Poivrade, Shalot, Gravy.
837. MUTTON CUTLETS, A LA MINUTE.
Trim the cutlets as above, then season with pepper and salt, and
place them in a sauta-pan with about two ounces of clarified butter.
The cutlets must be fried over a rather brisk fire, of a brown color;
then pour off the grease, and add a large gravy-spoonful of Espagnole
sauce, a piece of glaze, and the juice of half a lemon; set the cutlets
again on the fire to simmer gently for two minutes, dish them up, and
pour the sauce over them.
The centre of this entree may be filled with mashed potatoes, mashed
turnips, spinach, potatoes a la Maitre <PHotel, &c


ENTREES OP MUTTON. 291
838. MUTTON CUTLETS, A LA MAINTENON.
These are prepared, in the first instance, according to the former
part of the directions for cutlets a la Minute; season with pepper and
salt, add a table-spoonful of chopped mushrooms, the same quantity
of parsley, and three shalots, also chopped. Fry the cutlets brown oti
both sides, pour off the grease, and two large spoonfuls of brown
sauce, a very little grated nutmeg, and the juice of a lemon; allow
the whole to simmer together on the fire for five minutes, and then
set them in the larder to cool. Meanwhile, take as many sheets of
large-sized note-paper as there are cutlets, cut each somewhat in the
form of a heart, and then let them be oiled. Next, place a cutlet with
an equal proportion of the sauce in one of these papers, and with the
fore-finger and thumb of the right hand, twist the edges of the paper
tightly under into very close folds ; and repeat this with the remainder.
A quarter of an hour before sending to table, put the cutlets in the
oveu in a sauta-pan, to get warm through; then, with a heated iron
skewer, mark the papers so as to make it appear that they have been
broiled; dish them up on a napkin with fried parsley in the centre,
and send some brown Italian or flue-herbs sauce in a boat.
839. MUTTON CUTLETS, A LA BOURGUlGNOTTE.
Trim the cutlets and arrange them in circular order in a sauta-pan
with a little clarified butter. Then, fry them quickly on a brisk fire
to brown them on both sides, and before they are quite done, pour off
all the grease; add half-a-pint of red wine (Port or Claret), about
half a pottle of prepared mushrooms, and the same quantity of small
button onions (previously simmered in a little butter, over a slow fire
nntil nearly done); season with a pinch of mignionette pepper, and a
little salt, some grated nutmeg, and a tea-spoonful of pounded sugar;
set the whole to boil on the stove for two minutes, and then add a small
ladleful of brown sauce; allow the cutlets (covered) to simmer very
gently on a slow fire for twenty minutes, by which time they will be
done, and the sauce sufficiently reduced. The cutlets must then be
dished up closely, in a circle ; add half a glass of red wine and a dozen
small quenelles to the sauce, boil the whole together for a minute, and
garnish the centre of the entree with the mushrooms, &c, pour the
sauce over the cutlets, and serve.
840. MUTTON CUTLETS, WITH PUREE OF ENDIVES.
These are prepared and finished in the same manner as the cutlets
d la Minute; and when they are dished up, the centre of the entree
mast be filled with a. puree of endives (No. 114).
Note.—Cutlets dressed in this way may be served with purees of
vegetables of all sorts.
841. MUTTON CUTLETS, A LA NIVERNAISE.
Trim and prepare the cutlets as in the the foregoing case, and when
they have been fried brown, pour off the grease, and add a garnish of
carrots and turnips d la Niuernaise (No. 137); allow the whole to
simmer gently on a slow fire for a quarter of an hour, dish up the
cutlets, and fill the centre with vegetables, pour the sauce over the
entree, and serve


292 ENTREES OF MUTTON.
842. ANOTHER METHOD.
The cutlets, when fried, may be glazed, then dished up, and the
garnish & la Nivernaise placed in the centre. The advantage of the
first method is, that the cutlets partake of the flavor of the vegetables
by simmering with them.
843. MUTTON CUTLETS, WITH NEW POTATOES.
These are prepared in the same way as cutlets d la Minute, and when
dished up, must be garnished with new potatoes a la Maitre d1 Hotel
(No. 1188).
Mutton cutlets, prepared in the same manner, may be garnished with
any of the following vegetable garnishes, viz: Jardiniere, Macedoine,
asparagus-peas, stewed peas, Brussels-sprouts, &e.
2. Mutton Cutlets, rread-crumred,
COMPRISING
Mutton Cutlets, Bread-crumbed and Broiled, Mutton Cutlets, Bread-crumbed, <2 la Brt
with Sbalot Gravy. tonne.
„ „ with Purie of Mush- „ „ d la Macfdoine.
rooms. n „ ci UIndihmr.
„ „ with Cucumbers. „ „ with Puric of Chcst-
„ „ a la Milanaiie. nuts.
844. MUTTON-CUTLETS, BREAD-CRUMBED AND BROILED WITH
SHALOT GRAVY.
Trim the cutlets in the usual manner, and season them with pepper
and salt; then egg them slightly over with a paste-brush dipped in two
yolks of eggs, beaten up on a plate for the purpose; pass each cutlet
through some fine bread-crumbs; then dip them separately in some
clarified butter, and bread-crumb them over once more; put them into
shape with the blade of a knife, and lay them on a gridiron, to be
broiled over a clear fire, of a light-brown color; then, glaze and dish
them up, and serve them with plain or shalot gravy. These cutlets
may also be served with any of the sauces directed to be used for plain
broiled cutlets.
845. MUTTON CUTLETS, WITH PUREE OF MUSHROOMS.
Bread-crumr the cutlets as in the foregoing case; then place them
in a sauta-pan with a little clarified butter, fry them over a brisk fire,
of a light color, and when done, remove them on to a napkin or a
sheet of paper, and glaze them; dish them up, fill the centre with a
white purie of mushrooms (No. 122), pour some half glaze round the
entree, and serve.
846. MUTTON CUTLETS, WITH CUCUMBERS.
Prepare these in the same way as the foregoing, and garnish them,
when dished up, with some scollops of cucumbers (No. 138).
847. MUTTON CUTLETS, A LA MILANAISE.
In this case, the bread-crumbs used for the cutlets must be mixed
with 2 oz. of grated Parmesan cheese: in other respects they are to


MUTTON CUTLETS, BREAD-CRUMBED. 293
be bread-crumbed as before. When about to send to table, the cutlets
should be fried of a light color, glazed, and dished up; and the centre
garnished with some macaroni, finished with grated Parmesan cheese,
and a spoonful of Bechamel, or any other white sauce; pour some
Provengale sauce (No. 25) round the base of the entree and serve.
848. MUTTON CUTLETS, A LA BRETONNE.
These are prepared and finished in the same way as cutlets, gar-
nished with a purie of mushrooms, with this exception, that the centre
must be filled with small potatoes previously cut or scooped in the
form of olives, and fried in butter, of a yellow color; pour some
Bretonne sauce (No. 27) under the cutlets, and serve.
849. MUTTON CUTLETS, A LA MACEDOINE.
Prepare these in the same way as the foregoing, and when they are
dished up, garnish the centre with a Macedoine of vegetables (No. 143);
pour some half glaze round the base of the entrie, and serve.
850. MUTTON CUTLETS, A L'lNDIENNE.
Bread-crumr, fry, glaze, and dish up the cutlets; then garnish the
centre with two dozen small quenellea of anchovies (No. 246), the
force-meat of which must be mixed with a little strong curry sauce
(No. 47); pour some mangoe sauce under the cutlets, and serve.
The mangoe sauce here alluded to is thus made:—Split a fine
mangoe, and let the inside be reserved in a small stewpan; then cut
the outside part into narrow strips, and again mince these into shreds,
or thin scollops, and place them in the stewpan; add a small ladleful
of Espagnole sauce (No. 3); boil the whole together for five minutes,
when it will be fit for use.
851. MUTTON CUTLETS, WITH PUREE OF CHESTNUTS.
These, when dished up as in the foregoing cases, should be gar-
nished with & puree of chestnuts (No. 115), and some thin Espagnule
poured round them, then serve.
* Note.—Bread-crumbed cutlets may be served with every sort of
vegetable garnish described in this work, and with all the sauces
directed to be served with plain cutlets.
BRAIZED MUTTON CUTLETS,
COMPRISING
Mutton Cutlet*, A la Soubiie. Mutton Cutlets, A la Pompadour.
„ d la Li/oimaue. „ d la Provencale.
„ with Parie of Artichokes. „ t) la litttie.
d la Chipolata.
852. MUTTON CUTLETS, BRAIZED, A LA SOUBISE.
Trim one or two necks of mutton (according to the size of the
entree) in the way described for plain cutlets; the neck must then be
s


294 ENTREES OF MUTTON'.
cut up into thick cutlets, and placed on a dish without being farther
trimmed. Next, cat lib. of fat bacon into narrow stiips, about the
sixth of an inch square, and an inch and a half long, and with these
the cutlets should be larded in the following manner:—Take a middle-
sized larding-pin, and run it half through the lean of the cutlet: then
place a strip of bacon in the open end, and draw the larding-pin
through, leaving the bacon in the cutlet: repeat this, until the cutlet
has been studded with eight strips of bacon, and proceed in the same
manner with the remainder. Stew some of the trimmings over the
bottom of a large stewpan, or fricandeau pan, and place the cutlets
upon them in circular order, with the bone-end pointing to the centre;
cover them with the remainder of the trimmings, and garnish with a
couple of sliced carrots, a large onion, stuck with four cloves, a garnished
faggot of parsley, and one head of celery ; season with a dozen pepper-
corns and a blade of mace, moisten with a glass of brandy, and sufficient
fresh broth or stock to cover the whole; place a buttered paper on this,
put on the lid, and set the cutlets to braize very gently on a slow fire, or
ju the oven, for about one hour and a half; wheu they are become nearly
tender enough, draw the pan off the fire, and allow them to get partially
cold in their own liquor. The cutlets must then be carefully taken out,
one at a time, with a small slice or skimmer, and placed in rows on a
large earthen dish: when the whole are thus removed, another dish must
be placed upon these to press them slightly, in order to give them an
even surface. As soon as they have become firm by getting quite
cold, trim them neatly with a sharp knife, by paring off the surface of
each cutlet (without waste), so as to show the bacon inserted in the
lean; put them into a deep sautapan with some half glaze, made with
the broth they have been braized in, which must be strained, divested
of all the grease, clarified, and afterward boiled down for the purpose.
A quarter of an hour before sending to table, put the cutlets on a
brisk fire to warm, allow them to boil quickly for five minutes, then
roll the sautapan about carefully, so as to glaze them all over, and dish
them up in a close circle; fill the centre with some Soubise sauce, ot
puree (No. 119), pour the remainder of the half glaze round the base
Of the entree, and serve.
853. MUTTON CUTLETS BRAIZED, A LA LYONNAISE.
Prepare, finish, and dish up the cutlets, as in the foregoing case;
then fill the centre with some Lyonnaise sauce (No. 24), and serve.
854. MUTTON CUTLETS BRAIZED, WITH PUREE OF ARTICHOKES.
These are prepared exactly as for Soubite, and when dished np
should be garnished with a purie of artichokes (No. 117); pour a
little Bechamel sauce, or some half glaze round their base, and serve.
855. MUTTON CUTLETS BRAIZED, A LA CHIPOLATA.
Prepare and disi up these in the same manner as the foregoing;
garnish them with a Chipolata ragout (No. 190), and serve.
856. MUTTON CUTLETS BRAIZED, A LA POMPADOUR.
These must be prepared, in the first instance, nearly in the same
manner as the Soubise cutlets, except that, instead of the larding, they


BRAIZED MUTTON CUTLETS. 295

must be studded with red tongue
and black truffles; when the cut-
lets, after being braized, have been
trimmed, mask each of them with
a coating of reduced Soubise sauce
(No. 119); and when this has
become firmly set, by cooling on
the cutlets, dip them separately
in three whole eggs, seasoned with
a little salt, and beaten up for the
purpose, and afterward bread-
crumb them; flatten the bread-crumbs on smoothly with the blade of
a knife, put the cutlets carefully away on a dish in a cool place until
within twenty minutes of dinner-time. The cutlets must then be
placed in rows, on the wire lining of a deep frying-pan; when the
hog's-lard is sufficiently hot for the purpose, immerse the cutlets in
it, and fry them of a deep yellow color; then drain them on a nap-
kin, or a sheet of paper, in order to absorb all the grease, and dish
them up in a close circle upon a vegetable border. Fill the centre
with a Macedoine of vegetables (No. 143), pour some half glaze round
the base, and serve.
857. MUTTON CUTLETS BRAIZED, A LA PROVENCALE.
Braize and trim the cutlets as in the foregoing case; exeept that
in the present instance the cutlets must be left plain, omitting alto-
gether the larding or studding. While the cutlets are being braized,
set about making the following preparation :—Cut three Portugal
onions into very small dice, parboil these in water, drain them on a
sieve, and then place them in a small stewpan, with 1 oz. of fresh butter,
the same quantity of glaze, a little mignionette pepper and salt, and
some grated nutmeg; set the lid on the stewpan, and place the onions
on a very slow fire, to be thoroughly stewed, without acquiring any
color. Next, add a gravy-spoonful of white sauce, a little grated garlic,
on the point of a knife, and stir the whole on the fire until reduced to
a paste; then add the yolks of three eggs, and a little lemon-juice;
mix well together, and use this preparation to cover the surface of
one side only of the cutlets; shake a rather thick coating of bread-
crumbs and grated Parmesan cheese, in equal proportions, over this,
and then place the cutlets in a sauta-pan containing a little half glaze.
About twenty minutes before sending to table, put the cutlets in the
oven to be warmed through, pass the red-hot salamander over them,
to give them a deep yellow color, mash them with thin glaze, and
dish them up; then pour some Provetigale sauce (No. 25) under them,
and serve.
858. MUTTON CUTLETS BRAIZED, A LA RUSSE.
Cut twelve thick cutlets, as directed in the first article of this sec-
tion; insert eight strips of lean ham through the lean part, in a
circular form; prepare them for braizing in the usual way, and in
addition to the customary complement of vegetables and seasoning,
add two cloves of garlic and a couple of capsicums; moisten with a
pint of Madeira and a quart of good stock; set the cutlets to braize
for an hour and a half, on a very slow fire, and when nearly dona


296
ENTREES OF MUTTON.
remove them from the fire, that they may partially cool in their
own liquor; and then pat them in press between two dishes. When
the cutlets are cold, trim them neatly, and cover one side only with a
rather-thick coating of the following preparation :—Clean two large
sticks of horse-radish, and grate thera; put this into a small stewpaft
with a small pat of butter, two table-spoonfuls of French vinegar, a
pinch of mignionette pepper, a little grated nutmeg, and a tea-spoonful
of sugar; put the lid on, and set the whole to stew very gently for
twenty minutes on a very slow fire; then add two gravy-spoonfuls of
VeloutS sauce, boil the whole well together for ten minutes, mix with
this sauce the yolks of four eggs, and a small piece of glaze, and use
this preparation as directed above.
Next, mask the coated side of the cutlets with a paste-brush dipped
in some white of egg that has been beaten up, and sprinkle this surface
over with very fine bread-crumbs, previously fried of a light color,
with a little butter: place the cutlets in neat order in a sauta-pan, with
a little half glaze, and a quarter of an hour before sending to table,
put them in the oven to be warmed through, without allowing them
to acquire any more color; dish them up with a very small paper
ruffle on the bone of each cutlet, pour some half glaze (made with
their own liquor, previously Btrained, divested of all grease, and after-
ward boiled down) under them, and serve..
Note.—Mutton cutlets, when braized according to any of the fore-
going directions, may be served with all sorts of dressed vegetables^
such as stewed peas, asparagus-peas, French-beans, broad-beans,
Macidoine of vegetables, Jardiniere, braized lettuces, &c., and also
with all kinds 'of purees of vegetables: for making which, see those
articles.
. 859. SCOLLOPS OF MUTTON, WITH FINE-HERBS.
Bone a loin of mutton, and with a sharp knife pare off the sinewy
skin which lies beneath the fat of the upper and under or minion fil-
lets. > Next, cut these fillets into neatly-trimmed scollops, and place
them in a circular order in a sauta-pan with two ounces of clarified
butter; season with pepper and salt, and fry them over a brisk fire,
until browned on both sides; then pour off the grease, and add suffi-
cient fine-herbs sauce (No. 14) for the entrie; allow the whole to
simmer together over the fire for three minutes, and then dish up the
scollops, either in a pyramidal form, in a close circle, or else in an
ornamental border of potato or rice. These scollops may also be
garnished with a border of croquettes of mutton, mushrooms, potatoes
or rice.
SCOLLOPS OF MUTTON,
COMPRISING
Scollops of Mutton, with Fine-herbs.
„ d la Claremont.
„ with Oysters.
Scollops of Mutton, with Olives/arete*.
,, with Mushrooms and
Truffles.


SCOLLOPS OF MUTTON. 297
Note.—The garnishes here alluded to will serve for mutton scollops
generally.
860. SCOLLOPS OF MUTTON, A LA CLAREMONT.
Prepare the scollops as in the foregoing case, fry them brown, pour
off all the grease, aod add enough Claremont sauce (No. 58), for the
entree, set the whole to simmer briskly on the fire for three minutes,
and serve.
861. SCOLLOPS OF MUTTON, WITH OYSTERS.
These are prepared according to the foregoing directions, and when
the grease has been poured off, add as much brown oyster sauce
(No. 51) as will suffice for the entrie, simmer the whole together on
the fire for three minutes, and serve.
862. SCOLLOPS OF MUTTON, A L'lNDIENNE.
Prepare the scollops in the usual manner, fry them brown, pour off
the grease, add then some curry sauce (No. 47) and a minced mangoe;
simmer the whole together on the fire for five minutes, and send to
table with some plain boiled rice served separately.
863. SCOLLOPS OF MUTTON, WITH OLIVES FARCIES*
These are prepared in the same way as the foregoing, and when
they have been fried and the grease poured off, add two dozen olives
farcies, two large gravy-spoonfuls of Espagnole sauce (No. 3), a little
cayenne and lemon-juice, and a small piece of glaze; toss the whole
together, allow the scollops to simmer briskly on the stove-fire for three
minutes, and then serve.
864. SCOLLOPS OF MUTTON, WITH MUSHROOMS AND TRUFFLES.
Sautez or fry the scollops brown, then pour off the fat, and add a
small glass of Madeira, a dozen button-mushrooms, three ounces of
truffles cut into scollops, a little cayenne, and a small piece of glaze;
toss the whole together over the stove-fire until mixed, and then add
enough finished Espagnole sauce for the entree, and a little lemon-juice;
set the scollops to simmer on the fire for three minutes, and serve.
BRAIZED CARBONNADES OF MUTTON,
COMPRISING
Carbonnadet of Mutton, d la Richtlieu. Fillets of Mutton, larded, with Chtvreuil
„ „ d la Dauphutoite. sauce, or Roebuck fashion, Ac.
„ „ d la Flamande. BaricGl of Mutton, d la JVtwrna?»t.
865. BRAIZED CARBONNADES OF MUTTON, A LA RICHELIEU.
Bone two loins of mutton, leaving the small fillets adhering thereto;
divest them of all the inside fat, season with pepper and salt, cut off
the loose ends and daps, and then roll them up tight, keeping the
* Olives farrien, or stuffed olives, are sold in small bottles, and may be procured at
most Italian warehouses.


HARICOT OF MUTTON. 299
part where the carbonnades join to each other; place a crescent of
turnip round the base of the sprouts, add a neat border of glazed
carrots, and garnish the base of the entree with a Jardiniere (No. 144);
pour some bright thin Espagnole sauce under the entree, and serve.
Note.—Carbonnades, prepared and trimmed as directed in Nos. 865
and 867, may also be served with every sort of vegetable garnish, or
puree of vegetables, described in this work.
868. FILLETS OF MUTTON LARDED, WITH CHEVREUIL SAUCE,
OR ROEBUCK FASHION.
Rkmovk the fillets from two loins of mutton, pare off all the sinewy
skin that lies beneath the fat, and divide each fillet, lengthwise, into
four, these, together with the smaller fillets thus trimmed also, will
make up ten ; trim these and lard them closely with strips of fat bacon,
in the usual way. The fillets must then be steeped in a cold marinade
(No. 234) for about forty-eight hours; after which, drain them upon
a napkin to absorb any unnecessary moisture. Nt>xt, place the fillets
in a sautapan thickly spread with butter, and turn them round in a
semicircular form; moisten with a little mirepoix (No. 236), or a glass
of Sherry; cover them with a buttered paper and set them in the oven
to simmer for about twenty minutes ; they must then be glazed, trimmed
neatly round the ends, and dished up in a close circle, overlapping each
other; fill the centre with potatoes cut in the form of olives, and fried
in butter; pour some Poivrade sauce (No. 29) under the fillets, and
serve.
Note.—Fillets of mutton prepared ns the foregoing, may also be
garnished with quenelles of potatoes, with Chevreuil sauce (No. 69),
Victoria sweet sauce, Tomata, Piquante, Gherkins, or Provengale sauce.
869. HARICOT OF MUTTON, A LA NIVERNAISE.
Cut a neck of mutton into untrimmed cutlets, pare off any super-
fluous fat, put them into a large stewpan with four ounces of butter,
and fry them over a brisk fire until they become brown; then pour off
the greater portion of grease, and shake in a good handful of (lour,
gtir the whole over the fire for about five minutes, moisten with three
pints of broth, and stir the haricot on the fire till it boils. Meanwhile,
prepare some carrots and turnips, cut in the form of small pears, olives,
half-moons, or any other fancy shape, and throw these into the haricdt;
a dozen small onions may also be added; season with a garnished
faggot of parsley, and some mignionette pepper. Keep the haricdt
gently boiling by the side of the fire for about one hour and a half;
■kitn off all the grease, remove the faggot of parsley, place the cutlets
and vegetables in another stewpan, and after having boiled the sauce
down (if necessary), pass it through a tammy upon th% cutlets. When
about to send to table, warm the haricdt, dish the cutlets in the usual
manner, fill the centre with the vegetables, pour the sauce over all, and
serve.
Note.—Breasts of mutton with the superfluous fat removed, and cut
into small square pieces, make a very good haricdt, or stew.
The foregoing may be varied by substituting green-peas, young
carrots, turnips, or new potatoes for the vegetables directed to be used.


300
SHEEP'S-TONGUES,
COMPRISING
Shcop's-tonguos d I'Ecarlate, with Spinach, Ac. Sheep's-tongues, A la Napolitaine.
„ d la Maintenon. „ with Gherkin sunce,
Sheep's-tongues should first be pickled in the manner directed for
briskets of beef, &c; for the preparation of which, see No. 564.
870. sheep's-tongues, a l'ecablate, with spinach.
From six to a dozen tongues suffice for an entree; these must be
braized in some wine mirepoix (No. 236), or common broth, garnished
with the usual complement of vegetables, <fcc: after about three
quarters of an hour's gentle boiling, they will be done: they must then
be placed upon a dish, on their sides, and another dish with a weight
in it should be laid upon them to press them evenly. When the
tongues are cold, trim them neatly, and place them in a deep sautapan
with some half glaze, and about twenty minutes before sending to table,
put them in the oven, to be warmed through, covered with a circular
piece of buttered paper, to prevent their being dnied up; roll them in
their glaze, dish them up in the same manner as cutlets, fill the centre
with spinach (No. 112), mix a spoonful of Espagnole with the re-
mainder of their glaze, pour it round the tongues, and serve.
871. sheep's-tongues, a la maintenon.
These must first be braized, and when done, put in press between
two dishes, and afterwards neatly trimmed. The tongues must then
be finished in every respect the same as mutton cutlets d la Maintenon
(No. 838).
872. sheep's-tongues, a la napolitaine.
Braize and trim the tongues as above, cover them all over with a
thin coating of d' Uxelles sauce (No. 16), and when this has become
firmly set by cooling, dip each tongue in some beaten egg, and roll it
in bread-crumbs; flatten them smoothly with the blade of a knife, and
then place them on a dish in the larder, until within abont twenty
minutes of dinner-time. The tongues must then be fried of a light-
brown color, in clean hog's-lard made hot for the purpose, then
drained upon a napkin, and dished up in the form of a close circle, the
centre of which must be filled with macaroni dressed with cheese and
a little Bechamel sauce; pour some Napolitaine sauce (No. 63), under
them, and serve.
873. Sheep's-tongues, with gherkin sauce.
Prepare, finish, and dish up the tongues according to the directions
,in the first case, pour some gherkin sauce (No. 19) in the centre of
the entree, and serve. *
—Note.—Sheep's-tongues prepared after the foregoing directions,
may be served with every kind of hrown sauce or ragout; and also
with any of the vegetable garnishes or puries described in this work.
/


301
SHEEP'S-HEAD AND KIDNEYS,
COMPRISING
Sheep's Kidneys, A la Broehefte. Sheep's Kidneys, with Fine-herbs.
„ bread-crumbed, d I'Epiea- „ d la Ctaremont.
riinne. Sheep's Head, d la Oallimau/rt,
874. SHEEP'S-KIDNEYS, A LA BROCHETTE.
Slit the kidneys lengthwise, without cutting through the sinew;
remove the thin skin which covers them, and place them in a small
dish; season with pepper and salt, and a table-spoonful of salad oil,
and allow them to steep in their seasoning until broiled. They must
then be run on a small silver or any other kind of skewer (two or three
on each), and placed upon a gridiron over a clear fire to be broiled,
with the open side downwards; when done brown they must be turned
up, as, from the heat of the fire, their sides become contracted, which
causes them to form a sort of cup to hold the gravy in when the kid-
neys are done: care must be taken not to spill this gravy in dishing
them up: fill each with a small piece of cold Maitre-d'Hdtel butter
(No. 44), pour a little half glaze under them, and send to table quite
hot.
Broiled kidneys may also be served with anchovy butter, plain gravy,
or a pat of fresh butter and a spoonful of Harvey sauce.
875. SHEEP'S-KIDNEYS, BREAD-CRUMBED, A L'ePICURIENNE.
Split the kidneys as before directed, season them with pepper and
salt, dip them in clarified butter, and roll them in fresh-made bread-
crumbs; place them on the skewers, and broil them on both sides:
when done, dish them up with a small piece of epicurean butter (No.
186) in each, the juice of a lemon and a little half glaze under them,
and serve quite hot.
876. SHEEP'S-KIDNEYS, WITH FINE-HERBS.
Prepare some fine-herbs sauce (No. 14), slit the kidneys length-
wise quite through; remove the skin, and then slice them into thin
scollops. Place a sauta or frying pan, with two ounces of butter in it,
on a brisk fire; fry the kidneys brown, then add a glass of Sherry or
Madeira; let this boil till reduced, then pour in the sauce prepared
for the purpose; allow the whole to simmer together on the stove for
three minutes-; dish them up with some pastry Jleurons round them,
and serve.
877. ANOTHER METHOD.
Prepare the kidneys in thin scollops, season witn pepper and salt,
ami fry them brown in a little butter; then throw in a table-spoonful
of chopped mushrooms, the same of parsley, and two shalots, also chop-
ped; after allowing the whole to fry a few minutes longer, shake in a
table-spoonful of flour, mix together, and moisten with a glass of
■herry; let this boil for two minutes, then. add a large spoonful of
brown gravy or broth; allow the whole to simmer on the fire for five
minutes, add a little lemon-juice, and serve.


302 ENTREES OF VEAL.
\
878. SHEEP'S-KIDNEYS, A LA CLAREMONT.
Scollop and fry the kidneys as directed for those dressed with fine-
nerbs; and when they are browned, add some Claremont sauce (No.
58); simmer the whole together for three minutes, and serve with a
border of potato croquettes.
879. sheep's-head, a la gallimaufre.
Procure the head and pluck of a fresh-killed sheep, split the head
into halves, remove the brains, steep the whole in water, and wash
them thoroughly. Next, place the head, heart, and liver in a stewpan,
with oarrot, onion, garnished faggot of parsley, and green onions, two
blades of mace, a dozen cloves, and a tea-spoonful of pepper-corns;
moisten with a glass of brandy, and sufficient broth or water—if the
latter be nsed, salt must be added; cover the whole with buttered
paper and put the lid on, then set the stewpan on a gentle fire to braize
for about one hour and a half. When the head, &c, are done, take
them up carefully on a dish, strain the broth, and after having divested
it of all grease, boil down one-half to thin glnze, and with the remain-
der make some brown sauce. The pieces of the head should be trim-
med, seasoned with pepper and salt, chopped parsley, and two shalots,
then rubbed over with a paste-brush dipped in beaten egg, well-covered
.with bread-crumbs, and placed on a dish in the larder. The liver and
heart must be minced up fine, and when the sauce has been reduced to
the usual consistency, add it to the mince, together with a spoonful of
fine-herbs and a little lemon-juice. When about to send to table,
make the mince quite hot, and turn it out on its dish; place the pieces
of the head—previously broiled on both sides, of a bright yellow color,
and afterward nicely glazed—upon the mince, pour some of the thin
glaze round the entree, and serve.
Note.—Sheep's or lamb's heads, when braized and bread-crumbed,
may also be served with any kind of sharp sauce.
ENTREES OF VEAL,
coMPBisnio
Fricandeau, with Parie of Green-peas. Veal Cutlet*, d la Dreux.
„ d la Macidoine, Ac. „ d la Ptrigord.
Noix of Veal, d la Rdjence. „ t la Zingara.
„ d la Toulome. „ d la Ducheeee.
Grenadine of Veal, with Spinach, Ac. „ - in Papillotee.
Tendons of Veal, with stewed Pons. Blanquette of Veal, with Mushrooms, As.
„ d la Villeroi, with Parle Croquettee of Veal.
of Celery. Veal and Ham Scollops, with Italian sauce.
Veal Kernels, with Parfe of Artichokes. Scotch Scollops.
„ d la Talleyrand. Minced Veal, and Poached Eggs.
Veal Cutlets, d la Financiert. „ d la Porluguaite.
880. FRICANDEAU, with puree of GREEN PEAS.
The fricande.au piece consists of that part of the leg of veal generally
called the cushion, and is found on the inner side of the leg, lying im-


NOIX OF VEAL. 303
mediately under the udder or fatty covering. This part must be
earefully cut out, by making a semicircular incision from one end
round to the other, following the evident natural indication. Flatten
the piece of veal slightly with a cutlet-bat, and then pare off the
upper and under sinewy covering, leaving the surface perfectly smooth.
The fricandeau must then be closely lardod with the strips of fat bacon
in the usual manner. Next, strew the bottom of a fricandeau pan
with sliced carrot, onion and celery, and a well-garnished faggot of
parsley and green onions; cover these over with thin layers of fat
bacon, and then place the fricandeau on the top of all; moisten with
good stock or broth of sufficient quantity to reach up to the larding,
but not to cover it under; place a round of paper well buttered on
the top, and cover with the lid. The fricandeau should be allowed
to braize very gently for about three hours, either in the oven or upon
a very slow stove-fire, during which time it must be frequently basted
with its own liquor; when nearly done, the paper and the lid must bo
altogether removed, in order to enable the larding to dry, and it should
be frequently basted with its own glaze, to give it a bright shiny appear-
ance. Care must be taken to prevent the fricandeau from acquiring
too much color during the latter part of the process. Put some puree
of green peas (No. 106) in the centre of the dish, and with two forks
carefully lift up the fricandeau, and place it upon the puree; pour a
little half glaze round the base, and serve.
Note.—Fricandeaux prepared as above may also be served with every
kind of vegetable purie or garnish described in this work.
881. FRICANDEAU, A LA MACEDOINE.
This must be trimmed and larded as in the foregoing case; then
an incision of about three inches in length should be cut through its
entire thickness, and a round or'oval tin-cutter placed therein to dis-
tend the hollow part, so as to give it the appearance of a circle.
Prepare and braize the fricandeau as before, and when done place it
in its dish upon a base of quenelle force-meat; fill the centre of the
fricandeau with a well-prepared Macedoine of vegetables (No. 143),
round which place a neatly-arranged border of small spring turnips
split into halves, turned in the shape of deep cuts, and filled with green
peas: ornament the base of the fricandeau with a border of young
spring carrots, nicely glazed: pour some thin Espagnole round the
entrie, and serve.
882. NOIX* OF VEAL, A LA REGENCE.
In this case the udder must be left adhering to the noix, or cushion
of veal; it must be neatly trimmed, and the udder made to represent
the form of a half-moon, with the lean part (within the inner semi-
circle) smoothly pared, and larded in the same manner as a. fricandeau.
This should then be placed in an oval stewpan upon a bed of vege-
tables, covered with layers of fat bacon, moistened with half a pint of
Sherry or Madeira, and about a pint of good stock. The udder must
be covered with layers of fat bacon, to preserve it white; then place
a thickly-buttered paper over all, and cover with the lid. The noix
must be very gently braized on a slow-fire, or in the oven, and fre-
• Noix is the French technical term for thnt part of a log of veal generally used for
fricandeaux; the Englith term for which in cushion, or mouic-pitee.


304
ENTREES OF VEAL.
quently basted with its own liquor,—care being taken that the larding
is nicely glazed; when nearly done the bacon must be removed from
the udder, and the note placed in its dish; garnish it round with a
Financiere ragout (No. 188), incorporated with the glaze from the noix,
stick three ornamental silver skewers, previously garnished with a
large truffle, cock's-comb, and a cray-fish, in the udder; glaze the
larding, and serve.
883. NOIX OF VEAL, A LA TOULOUSE.
Prepare this as in the foregoing case, and when dished up, garnish
with a white Toulouse ragout (No. 87), using AUemande sauce for the
purpose; stick in three ornamental silver skewers, garnished with a
large cock's-comb, a truffle, and a decorated quenelle; keep the udder
white, glaze the larding and serve.
Note.—This entrie may also be served with a garnish of prepared
vegetables a la Macedoine (No. 143).
884. GRENADINS OF VEAL, WITH SPINACH, ETC.
•Trim a fricandeau piece of white veal, and cut this into eight or
ten fillets, beginning at the thick end; these must be flattened with a
cutlet-bat dipped in water, and trimmed somewhat in the shape of
fillets of fowl. They should then be closely larded with fat bacon,
placed in neat order in a deep sauta or fricandeau pan, upon a bed of
sliced vegetables covered over with layers of fat bacon; moisten with
sufficient good stock, just to reach up to the larding, place the but-
tered paper, and cover with the lid. The grenadins will require to be
braized for about one hour and a quarter, during which time they must
be frequently basted; when nearly done, remove the paper and glaze*
them. Next, drain them on a napkin, trim them, and dish them on a
foundation of force-meat, in close order; fill the centre with some purSe
of spinach, pour some half glaze round the base of the entree (made
with the liquor from the grenadins), and serve.
Note.—Grenadins may also be garnished with all kinds of ragouts
and vegetable garnishes directed to be served with fricandeaux.
885. TENDONS OF VEAL, WITH STEWED PEAS.
Tendons of veal consist of that part which lies along the breast
end of the ribs, forming an opaque gristly substance, which in the ox
becomes bone. To extract these, an incision must be made right
down the extreme edge of the breast of veal, without damaging the
tendons, which should then be laid quite bare with the knife up to
the commencement of the ribs, where they must be divided from them.
The bony part, if any remain, must be pared away, and the tendons
put to steep in water for an hour or so. They must then be tied up
securely with string, and put to boil in the stockpot for about four
hours; or else, if there be no stockpot boiling at the time, place them
in a stewpan, with the usual complement of vegetables and seasoning,
covered over with a buttered paper; moisten with three quarts of
fresh broth or water, set them to braize on a slow fire, for about four
honrs, and when done, put them in press between two dishes, nntil
they are cold. The tendons must then be cut slantwise, into rather


ENTREES OF VEAL. 305
large scollops, measuring about two inches in diameter, and when
neatly trimmed, should be placed in a sauta-pan with some half glaze
to warm them in. Twenty minutes before sending to table, put the
tendons in the oven, or on the stove-fire, to simmer for ten minutes;
then allow them to boil briskly, so as to reduce the glaze, in which
they must be gently rolled, to make it adhere to them; dish them up
in a close circle upon a base of quenelle force-meat, fill the centre with
stewed peas, pour a little thin Espagnole sauce into the sauta-pan, to
be mixed with the glaze by boiling, use this to put round the entrie,
and serve.
Note.—Tendons of veal prepared as above, may also be served with
every other kind of dressed vegetable garnishes, as well as with all
sorts of puries of vegetables; for making which, see those articles.
886. TENDONS OF VEAL, A LA VILLEROI, WITH PUREE OF
CELERY.
Prepare, braize, and trim the tendons, as directed in the foregoing
case; put them on a large earthen dish, and mask them over with a
coating of stiffly-reduced Allemande sauce; when this has become
firmly set upon the tendons, by cooling, let them be dipped in beaten
egg, and bread-crumbed, and afterward fried of a light color in clean
hog's lard, made quite hot for the purpose. Let them be dished up
in a close circle, overlapping each other, fill the centre with some
purie of celery (No. 110), pour some half glaze, or a little Suprime or
Bechamel sauce round the dntrie, and send to table.
Note.—Tendons prepared in this manner may also be garnished as
the former.
887. VEAL KERNELS, WITH PUREE OF ARTICHOKES.
Veal kernels are an oblong fatty substance, containing a kind of
small kidney of great delicacy, lying to the left of the blade-bone of
the shoulder; these must be steeped in water for about half an hour,
then parboiled for five minutes, immersed in cold water, drained upon
a napkin, and put in press between two dishes. From ten to sixteen
kernels suffice for an entree. The kernels must be trimmed without
waste, and placed in a deep circular fricandeau pan, upon thin layers
of white veal; then moisten with some white wine mirepoix (No. 236),
and set them on a slow fire to braize very gently for about three-quar-
ters of an hour, bearing in mind that the heat of the stove is to be so
regulated as to cause their liquor to be reduced to one half its original
quantity. The kernels must then be carefully removed into a sauta-
pan, and their half glaze, when strained and divested of all grease,
poured upon them. Place them on a brisk fire, and let them boil
quickly till their moisture is reduced to a glaze, roll them gently in
this, causing as much of it as possible to adhere to them, to give them
a'bright appearance. Then dish them up in a close circle upon a base
of force-meat of veal, with a crouton of fried bread of the same shape
between each kernel; fill the centre with some purie of arttichokes
(No. 117), pour some half glaze round the entrie, and serve.
Note.—Veal kernels, prepared and dished up in this manner, may be
garnished with all kinds of dressed vegetables and puries.
19


306 ENTREES OF VEAL.
887. VEAL KERNELS, A LA DUCHESSE.
When the kernels have been braized, pressed, and trifhmed, as
directed in the foregoing part of the preceding article, let them be
smoothly masked over with some well-reduced Allemande sauce; and
after the sauce has been allowed sufficient time to become firm by
cooling, bread-crumb the kernels, fry them in properly-heated frying-
fat, of a light color, and, having dished them up as directed in the
preceding case, let the entrie be garnished and sauced similarly.
888. VEAL KERNELS, A LA TALLEYRAND.
Parroil and trim the kernels, then place them in a fricandeau pan
between thin layers of fat bacon; moisten with some wine mirepoix
(No. 236), and braize them gently for three-quarters of an hour; when
done, put them on an earthen dish to cool, and mask each of them
all over with a coating of stiffly-reduced Allemande sauce, mixed with
1 oz. of truffles, chopped fine; when the sauce has become firmly set,
as it cools, dip each in some beaten egg, and breadcrumb them care-
fully. About twenty minutes before sending to table, fry them of a
bright-yellow color, with clarified butter, in a deep sauta-pan; drain
them upon a napkin, dish them up in a circle, garnish the centre with
a ragout composed of small scollops of fat livers, truffles, mushrooms
and cock's kernels, the whole of which must be tossed in good Alle-
mande sauce; pour some thin Espagnole sauce (finished with some of
the mirepoix) under the kernels, and serve.
VEAL CUTLETS, A LA FINANCIERE.
Procure a neck of very white veal, saw off the chine-bone and the
npper end of the ribs, leaving the cutlet-bones about three inches and
a half long; then, divide it into cutlets; flatten these with a bat dipped
in water, trim them neatly and lard the lean of the cutlets closely with
bacon, in the usual way. Next, prepare the cutlets for braizing in
the same manner as directed for a fricandeau; about oue hour and a
quarter will suffice to braize them, when they must be nicely glazed,
dished up with the larded part of the cutlet uppermost, and the centre
of the entree filled with a rich Financiere ragout (No. 188); pour
some of the sauce round the base of the cutlets, and serve.
890. VEAL CUTLETS, A LA DREUX.
These should be cut rather thicker than usual, but neither flat-
tened nor trimmed; they must be interlarded or studded through the
lean part with about a dozen oblong pieces of red tongue, or ham, and
black truffles about an inch long and a quarter of an inch in depth
and thickness; these must be placed in a braizing-pan, upon a bed of
sliced vegetables covered with thin layers of fat bacon, some mace,
four cloves, twelve pepper-corns, and a garnished faggot of parsley and
green onions in the centre, and the whole again covered with layers
of bacon; moisten with two glasses of Sherry and as much good stock
as will suffice to cover the surface of the cutlets, and set them to
braize on a slow fire for about one hour and a half, with the lid on;
when done, allow them partially to cool in their own liquor. Then
put them in press between two dishes, and when cold, let them
be trimmed smooth, so as to show the truffle and tongue-studding.


ENTREES OF VEAL, 307
They should next be placed in a sautapan with some half glaze, made
from their own liquor, and put away in the larder. Twenty minutes
before sending to table, put the cutlets in the oven to be warmed
through, then place them on the stove-fire to glaze; dish them up in
a close circle, fill the centre with a white Toulouse ragout (No. 187),
pour some thin Espagnole sauce round the base of the entree, and serve.
891. VEAL CUTLETS, A LA PERIGORD.
Trim the cutlets neatly, season with pepper and salt, then dip them
in some whipped white of eggs, and afterward in some black truffles
chopped very fine; flatten this on securely with the blade of a knife,
and place them in clarified butter in a sautapan, in circular order.
Twenty minutes before sending to table, fry the cutlets over a gentle
fire, on both sides, until done through—taking care that the chopped
truffles do not burn; when done, drain them on a piece of paper,
glaze, and dish them up, fill the centre with scollops of red tongue
and truffles; pour some Perigueux sauce (No. 23), and serve.
892. VEAL CUTLETS, A LA ZINGARA.
Trim the cutlets neatly, season with pepper and salt, and place
them in a sautapan with some clarified butter. In another sautapan
prepare a similar number of thin oval scollops of raw ham. When
about to send to table, fry the cutlets and the ham, glaze both, and
dish them up—alternately placing a cutlet and a piece of ham; fill
the centre with scolloped mushrooms and truffles, pour some thin
Espagnole sauce into the sautapan the cutlets have been fried in, to
this add a little cayenne and lemon-juice; simmer these together on
the fire, pour the sauce over the cutlets and serve.
893. VEAL CUTLETS, A LA DUCHESSE.
Prepare these in the same way as the cutlets, a la Dreux; and
when they have been trimmed, mask them all over with a coating of
Alelel sauce (No. 36) and bread-crumb them as for a Villeroi. Fry
the cutlets of a bright-yellow color in clarified butter, dish them up,
and fill the centre with circular scollops of red tongue and button-
mushrooms tossed in a little thick Allemande sauce; pour some Tomata
sauce (No. 22) round the base of the entree, and serve.
894. VEAL CUTLETS, IN PAPILLOTES.
Trim the cutlets neatly, season with pepper and salt, and fry them
in a little clarified butter; when they are nearly done, add some
mushrooms, parsley, and three shalots, the whole chopped fine; fry
these together over the fire for five minutes, and then add two gravy-
spoonfuls of Veloute, or any other white sauce, a little nutmeg, lemon-
juice, and a small piece of glaze; simmer the whole together over a
gentle fire for a few minutes, then add a leason of four yolks of eggs,
toss the cutlets about to mix the leason in with the sauce, and let them
become cool. In other respects, finish in the same way as directed for
mutton cutlets, d la Maintenon (No. 838).
895. BLANQUETTE OF VEAL, WITH MUSHROOMS.
The veal for this purpose must first be roasted, and when cold, cut
into ronnd thin scollops about ai inch in diameter; to these add


308 ENTREES OF VEAL.
some button-mushrooms also cut into scollops, and enough Allemande
sauce (No. 7) for the entree. Just before sending it to table,, warm
the blanquette, and dish it up with a border of croquettes of veal, of
rice or potatoes. This dish may be varied by substituting scollops of
truffles, cucumbers, or red tongue, for the mushrooms.
896. CROQUETTES OF VEAL.
Cut about 1 lb. of roasted veal into very small dice, or mince it
into very fine shreds; add this to about half its quantity, of mush-
rooms, truffles or red tongue, cut np in the same manner. Next,
reduce by boiling enough Allemande, Biohamel, Veloute or Suprime
sauce for the entree; and when it has become rather stiff, throw in the
mince; season with a little pepper and grated nutmeg; stir the whole
well together, and then spread the preparation on a dish, about an
inch thick; smooth it over with the blade of a knife,, cover with
buttered paper, and put it into the larder to cool. It must then be
divided into about two dozen pieces, and each of these rolled in bread-
crumbs in the form of a common-sized cork or a round ball, or in the
shape of a pear, and after being dipped in some beaten egg, must
again be rolled in bread-crumbs, and placed on an earthen dish till
within twenty minutes of dinner time; the croquettes must now be
fried in clean hog's-lard made quite hot for the purpose, and when
done, drained upon a napkin to absorb all the grease, then dished up
with fried parsley, and served immediately.
Note.—When croquettes are shaped in the form of pears, some
parsley stalks of equal lengths should be stnck in at the pointed ends,
before they are fried, to imitate the stalk of a pear.
897. VEAL AND HAM SCOLLOPS, WITH ITALIAN SAUCE.
Procure about 1 lb. of veal, either from the leg, the chump-end of
the loin, or best end of the neck; cut this into round or oval scollops,
season with pepper and salt, and place them in a sautapan with some
clarified butter: an equal number of similarly-cut scollops of ham
may either be put with these, or separately. Fry the veal and ham
scollops nicely brown, pour off the grease, add the brown Italian sauce
(No. 12) and some button-mushrooms; simmer the whole together for
three minutes, dish them up, alternately placing a scollop of veal with
the ham; fill the centre with the mushrooms, pour the sauce round the
entree, and serve.
898. SCOTCH SCOLLOPS.
Trim the scollops as in the foregoing case, season with parsley and
shalots chopped fine, pepper and salt; place the scollops after they
have been bread-crumbed in the usual way, in a santapan with a little
clarified butter: mark the scollops of ham separately; prepare also
two dozen small round quenelles with some highly seasoned veal force-
meat. When about to send to table, fry the scollops of veal and ham
of a light color, glaze them, and dish them alternately in a close
circle—first placing a scollop of veal and then one of ham; fill the
centre with the quenelles (previously poached), pour a little thickened
brown gravy with a little glaze in it, or some well-finished Espagnole
Bauce, round the entree, and serve.


HEART SWEETBREADS. 309
899. MINCED VEAL, AND POACHED EGGS.
Pare off the outside part of 1 lb. of veal, and then let it be chopped
very fine, or cut it into thin shreds. Put about half a pint of Bicfictmel
sauce (No. 5) into a stewpan and reduce it by boiling, until it becomes
rather thick, then add the minced veal, and a little cream ; season with
pepper and salt,-and a very little nutmeg; stir the whole well together
over the fire until warm, and dish it up in a conical form; place six
poached eggs round it with a circular scollop of glazed red tongue or
ham between each egg; pour a little Bichamel sauce (No. 5) round
the base of the entree, and serve.
900. ANOTHER METHOD.
Put a pat of butter into a stewpan on the fire, and when melted,
throw in a table-spoonful of flour; stir this with a wooden spoon over
the fire for two minutes; then gradually mix in half a pint of broth,
put the sauce on the fire, stirring it until reduced to the thickness of
Bechamel sauce; then add the minced veal, a gill of cream, a small
piece of glaze, and a little nutmeg, pepper, and salt; stir this on the
fire for three minutes, and serve as in the foregoing case.
Note.—Mushrooms, truffles, tongue, or ham, either minced or cut
into shreds, may be added to the veal, in either of the two foregoing
cases.
901. MINCED VEAL, A LA PORTUGUAISE.
See the directions for dressing beef in this method (No. 810).
HEART SWEETBREADS,*
C0MPIII8ISO
Sweetbreads, larded, with Stewed Peas, Ac Sweetbreads, larded, d la Si. Cloud.
„ „ d la Monarque. „ tt d la Paririlnne.
„ „ d la Conli.
902. SWEETBREADS LARDED, WITH STEWED PEAS.
Three heart sweethreads generally suffice for a dish. They must
be procured quite fresh, otherwise they are unfit for table, and should
be steeped in water for several hours, and the water frequently
changed; the sweethreads are then to be scalded in boiling water for
about three minutes, and immersed in cold water for half an hour; after
which they must be drained upon a napkin, trimmed free from any
sinewy fat, and put between two dishes to be. slightly pressed flat, and
then closely larded with strips of bacon in the usual manner. The
sweethreads must next be placed in a deep sauta-pan on a bed of thinly-
sliced carrot, celery, and onions, with a garnished faggot of parsley and
* Sweetbreads, or Pancreas, fire the two white glands found in calves; the one being
placed immediately below the throat, ami the other, of a rounder form, lying nearer the
heart J henee they are designated heart and throat sweetbreads: the former is the most
delicate, and when in perfection, is white and fat; the latter is of an elongated form,
•at so fat as the other, and is only used for secondary purposes.
/


310 HEART SWEETBREADS.
green onions placed in the centre, and covered with thin layers of fat
bacon. Moisten with about a pint of good stock, place a round of bat-
tered paper on the top, cover with the lid, and after having put the
sweethreads to boil on the stove-fire, remove them to the oven or on a
moderate fire (in the latter case live embers of charcoal must be placed
on the lid), and allow them to braize rather briskly for abont twenty
minutes—frequently basting them with their own liquor. When done,
remove the lid and paper covering, and set them again in the oven, to
dry the surface of the larding; glaze them nicely, and dish them up on
some stewed peas (No. 1175).
Sweethreads, prepared in this way, may also be served with dressed
asparagus peas, French-beans, scollops of cucumbers, braized lettuces,
celery, Macedoine of vegetables, Jardini&re, and also with every kind
of vegetable puree described in this work.
To raise thp sweethreads above the garnish or sauce served with them,
it is necessary to place as many foundations as there are sweethreads in
the dish ; these may be made, either by boiling some rice in broth until
it becomes quite soft, then working it into a paste; after this has been
spread on a dish about an inch thick, a circular tin-cutter must be used
to stamp it out. They may also be prepared from veal force-meat, or
even fried crdutons of bread will serve the purpose.
903. SWEETBREADS, A LA MONARQUE.
Thkse must be larded and braized as the foregoing; then cut a kind
of pillar out of a piece of stale bread, of angular shape, about three
inches high, each side of the angle measuring about two inches; this
should be fried in hog's lard, of a bright-yellow color, and stuck in a
perpendicular position in the centre of the dish with a little paste made
of flour and egg. The sweethreads are to be so arranged as to have
one end resting up against this croustade, and between each a decor-
ated minion fillet of fowl is to be placed; crown the top with a row
of white double cocks'-combs, stick in au ornamental silver skewer
garnished with a large cocks'-comb, a mushroom, a large crayfish, and
a truffle; pour a Financiere ragout (No. 188) round the entrie, and
serve.
904. SWEETBREADS, A LA CONTI.
After the sweethreads have been scalded and pressed flat, make
about a dozen incisions round the sides of their upper surface with the
point of a small knife, in a slanting direction, to the depth of half an
inch; in these incisions insert circular scollops of black truffle, and
repeat this so as to form an inner circle in the same manner. Next,
prepare the sweethreads for braizing, placing them upon a bed of thinly-
sliced carrot, onion, and celery, covered with thin layers of bacon, layers
of the same being placed also over the sweethreads; moisten with good
white stock, and braize the sweetbreads about twenty minutes. When
the sweetbreads are done, drain them on a napkin, and glaze them
lightly, without drying the glaze on; when about to dish them up,
garnish with a ragout composed of small quenelles of fowl, button
mushrooms, cocks'-combs, and kernels, crown the whole with a large
truffle, place a crayfish between each sweethread, pour some Perigueux
sauce (No. 23) under the entree, and serve.
Note.—The sweethreads may be varied by scolloping, or conliser,


THROAT SWEETBREADS. 311
one-half with truffle, and the remainder with red tongue, or mixing the
latter with green gherkins.
905. SWEETBREADS, A LA ST. CLOUD.
These should be scalded and pressed in the usual way, and studded
over in neat circular order with pieces of black truffle or red tongue,
cut out in the form of large hob-nails; then make twelve openings
with a blunt wooden skewer in each sweetbread, and introduce in these
the nail-like pieces of tongue perpendicularly. Braize them according
to the directions for the foregoing, and when done, dish them up with
a white Toulouse ragout (No. 187); garnish the entree round the base
with a border of small quenelles decorated with truffles, and place a
group of trimmed crayfish-tails, previously tossed in a little glaze,
colored with lobster-coral; slightly glaze the sweethreads, and serve.
906. SWEETBREADS, A LA PARISIENNE.
After the sweethreads have been scalded and pressed, let them be
larded in the following manner: one with shreds of very black truffles,
another with shreds of the tip of a red tongue, and the third with some
green stalks of parsley; braize them between layers of fat bacon, and
moisten with a wine mirepoix (No. 236). When they are done, dish
them up against a triangular croustade, garnished with a well-arranged
Parisian ragout (No. 203); stick an ornamental silver skewer, gar-
nished with a double comb, a large truffle and a decorated quenelle, in
the centre of the crdustade, and round the base of the skewer, stud a
border of crayfish-tails, slightly glaze the sweethreads, and serve.
Note.—Sweethreads may also be served roasted for persons of delicate
health, being very nutritious, and easy of digestion. In sach cases they
may be served with a little plain gravy, Suprime or brown sauce.
THROAT SWEETBREADS,
COMPRISING
Epigramme of Sweetbreads. Scollops of Sweetbreads d la IfarichaU.
Scollops of Sweetbreads, with Shalot Gravy. „ „ <2 la Soubim.
„ „ d la Dauphine. „ „ d la PouletU.
,, „ d la a" Usellee. Croquettes of Sweetbreads.
907. EPIGRAMME OF SWEETBREADS.
Procure four throat sweethreads, and steep them in water for several
hours, changing the water frequently, until they are freed from redness:
they must then be scalded for five minutes in boiling water, and after
being immersed in fresh water to cool them, should be put in press
between two dishes, to flatten. Next, put .one of the sweethreads to
braize in some white broth: when done, set it aside to get cool, and
let it be afterwards cut into small circular scollops, and placed in a
small stewpan, with an equal quantity of scollops of red tongue and
mushrooms. Cut the three remaining sweethreads, in a slanting direc-
tion, into oval scollops a quarter of an inch thick; bread-crumb one-


312 THROAT SWEETBREADS.
half with two coatings of bread-crumbs, by dipping them the first time
in beaten egg, and the second in clarified butter; place these in a
santapan with a little clarified butter, and prepare the other half sepa-
rately in a similar manner, without bread-crumbing them; both must
be seasoned with pepper and salt. "When about to send to table, fry
the bread-crumbed scollops of a light-color, but the others should be
merely simmered over a slow fire, in order to keep them as white as
possible; glaze the former and toss the latter in a little Bichamel
sauce, dish them up, alternately placing a bread-crumbed scollop with
a white one; fill the centre with the small scollops of tongue, &c, pre-
viously warmed in a little Bechamel sauce, pour some of the sauce round
the base, and servo.
908. SCOLLOPS OF SWEETBREAD9, WITH SHALOT GBAVY.
Bread-crumr the whole of the scollops, as directed in the foregoing
case, fry them of a light color, drain them on a piece of paper, and
glaze; dish them up in a close circle, pour some rich shalot gravy
(No. 167) under them, and serve.
909. SCOLLOPS OF SWEETBREADS, A LA DAUPHINE.
Cut the sweethreads into oval scollops, place them in a santapan,
With a little clarified butter, season with pepper and salt, a little nut-
meg and some chopped parsley, squeeze the juice of half a lemon over
them, and simmer them gently over the*fire for ten minutes; they must
then be removed into a dish, and when partially cold, covered with a
thin coating of purie of fowl, mixed with an equal proportion of reduced
Allemande sauce, and when this has become firmly set by cooling, dip
them in beaten egg, and bread-crumb them. Twenty minutes before
sending to table, let them be carefully fried in plenty of hog's-lard,
made hot for the purpose; drain them on a napkin to absorb all the
grease, dish them up in a close circle, pour some vuree of mushrooms
(No. 122) in the centre, and serve.
910. SCOLLOPS OF SWEETBREADS, A LA D'UXELLES.
These are prepared in almost every particular just as the foregoing
except that B'Uxelles sauce (No. 16) must be substituted for the puree
to mask the scollop with. After having simmered, let them be masked
with the sauce, and afterwards bread-crumbed; then fried, dished up
and served with either of the following sauces :—Brown or white
Italian, Poivrade, half glaze, scollops of mushrooms or truffles, puree
of truffles, plain gravy, or puree of mushrooms.
, »
911. SCOLLOPS OF SWEETBREADS, A LA MARECHALE.
These must be seasoned with a little pepper and salt, masked over
with a thin coating of reduced Allemande sauce, and afterwards bread-
crumbed upon this; they should then be placed in circular order in a
sautapan with some clarified butter, and fried of a bright-yellow color.
When done, dish them up»in close order, and let the centre be filled
with Toulouse ragout (No. 187).
912. SCOLLOPS OF SWEETBREADS, A LA SOUBISE.
Prepare and dish up these, as the foregoing; fill . the centre with
Soubise sauce (No. 119), and serve. t


calf's liver, etc. 313
They may also be scored with all kinds of garnishes of dressed vege-
tables, purees of vegetables, or any kind of sauce served with cutlets. •
913. SCOLLOPS OF SWEETBREADS, A LA POULETTE,
When the sweetbreads have been scalded in the usual manner, cut
them into circular scollops, place them in neat order in a sautapan
with a little clarified butter, and season with pepper and salt, chopped
parsley and lemon-juice; simmer them over a moderate fire for about
ten minutes, and when done remove them into a stewpan, containing
enough sauce a la Poulette for the entrie, add some scollops of mush-
rooms or truffles, toss the whole together gently over the stove-fire until
sufficiently hot, and then dish them up in a pyramidal form, and serve
with a border of croquettes of potatoes round the entree.
Note.—Scollops of sweethreads, a la Russe and d la Provengale,
are prepared in the same manner as veal cutlets under these names.
914. CROQUETTES OF SWEETBREADS.
When the sweethreads have been scalded, put them into a small
stewpan with two shalots, a little mignionette-pepper and salt, half a
bay-leaf and a sprig of thyme; moisten with some stock-pot toppings,
and set them to braize gently for about twenty minutes; when done,
drain them on a plate to get cold, after which let them be cut up into
very small dice, and mix with some stiff-reduced Allemande sauce;
season with a little pepper and salt and grated nutmeg; stir the whole
gently over the stove-fire for two minutes, spread the preparation on a
dish about an inch thick, and put it in the larder to get cold. The
croquettes then must be shaped, bread-crumbed, and fried in the same
manner as directed for veal croquettes. i
Note.—Some red tongue, mushrooms, or truffles, cut into small dice,
may also be mixed in with the sweethreads.
CALF'S EARS, FEET, LIVER, AND BRAINS,
COMPRISING
Calf s Ear, <J la Tortui. Calf 8 Liver, fried, with Fine-herbs Sauce.
* fried, with Tomata sauce. Calf's Brains, with Jtntelottt Sauce.
Calf's Feet, d la Patealine. „ with Nutbrown Butter.
„ fried, with Italian sauce. „ fried, d la ProventaU.
Calf's Liver, trailed, with Vegetables. „ Scolloped.
915. calf's ears, a la tortue.
Procure four white calf's ears (cut with a broad base), scald them
in boiling water for five minutes, after which plnnge them in cold water
and let them be wiped dry; then hold them„on the point of a skewer
over the flame of a charcoal fire to singe off any remaining hairs; wipe
them clean, rub them over with lemon-juice, and braize them in some
Wane (No. 235) for about an hour and a half or two hours. When the
ears are done, drain them on a wet napkin, and with the back of the
blade of a small knife scrape off all the soft skin; trim them neatly, aud


314 calf's liver, etc.
with the point of a knife cut the white gristle of each into slits—taking
particular care not to draw the knife through—so that when the thin
part of the ears is turned "down, the stripes may form themselves into
loops or curls. When the ears are ready to dish up, fill each with a
decorated quenelle or a round truffle, garnish with a ragout a la Tortul
(No. 189), and serve.
916. calf's eabs fried in ratter, with tomata sauce.
Prepare the ears as directed in the foregoing, and when done let
them be trimmed; scrape off the soft skill from the upper part, and cut
each ear into four pieces lengthwise; put them to steep in a basin with
two spoonsful of salad oil, one of vinegar, two sliced shalots, parsley,
bay-leaf, and thyme, and a little mignionette-pepper and salt. About
twenty minutes before dinner time, drain the pieces of ears on a cloth,
dip them in some light batter, and fry them in plenty of hog's-lard,
heated to the proper degree for the purpose. When fried, dish them
up in a pyramidal form, pour some Tomata sauce (No. 22) under them
and serve.
Note.—Calf's ears prepared in this manner may also be served with
any of the following sauces: Piquante, Poivrade, Italian, Gherkin,
Poor-man's, Provencale, or Richelieu. If, however, this kind of fritter
is not eaten as soon as served, it would be better to send the sauce
separately.
917. calf's feet, a la pascaline.
Separate each foot into halves by splitting the hoof with a knife,
take the bone out, and scald these in boiling water for five minutes;
the feet must then be braized in blanc (No. 235), and when done,
drained upon a cloth, cut into pieces about two inches square, and put
into a stewpan containing some button-mushrooms and Pascaline
sauce (No. 15); toss them in this over the stove-fire until sufficiently
hot, and serve with a border of jleurons or potato croquettes round
the entree.
918. CALF'S FEET FRIED IN BATTER, WITH ITALIAN SAUCE.
These are prepared in all respects the same as calPs ears fried, but
substituting Italian sauce (No. 12) for Tomata sauce.
919. CALF'S LIVER BRAIZED, WITH VEGETABLES.
Choose a liver of a bright pinky color, entirely free from any
whitish spots. wash and wipe it dry, and then lard it through with
strips of ham and fat bacon—previously seasoned with chopped pars-
ley, pepper, and a very little salt; coven the bottom of a stewpan
with veal or other trimmings of meat, place the liver upon them, gar-
nish with two carrots, two onions stuck with four cloves each, two
heads of celery, and a garnished faggot of parsley; moisten with two
glasses of Sherry and a quart of strong stock; place a buttered paper
on the top, cover with the lid, and set the liver to braize very gently
on a slow fire for about two hours and a half, frequently basting it
with its own liquor while it is being braized. WLen done, remove
the liver into a deep sautapan with part of its liquor, previously
reduced to half-glaze; use the remainder to work some brown sauce


calf's liver, etc. 315
for the en trie; put the liver in the oven to be glazed with its own
liquor, and when done dish it up with groups of small carrots, turnips,
and glazed onions round its base, pour the sauce under it, and serve.
920. fried calf's liver, with fine-herrs sauce.
Cut the liver up into neat scollops about a quarter of an inch thick,
season with pepper and salt, and fry them brown in a sautapan with a
little clarified butter; when this is done, pour off all the grease, add
some fine-herbs sauce (No. 14), simmer the whole together on the fire
for about three minutes, and serve.
921. calf's rrains, with matelotte sauce.
Steep three sets of brains in water for several hours, care being
taken to change the water frequently—and remove the loose skin that
contains them; after being washed, and placed in a stewpan, contain-
ing some boiling water, and seasoned with a gill of vinegar, some
thinly-sliced carrot and onion, thyme and bay-leaf, pepper and salt, let
them boil gently for about twenty minutes. The brains must then be
drained upon a cloth, and six croutons cut in the shape of large cocks'-
combs previously stuck on the bottom of an entree dish, so as to form
as many compartments; place a lobe of brains in each of these, make a
'slight incision in each portion of the brains, and insert in it a scolloped
circular piece of red tongue; pour a Matelotte ragout (No. 193) over
the entree, and serve.
922. calf's rrains, with nutrrown rutter.
Prepare, and dish up the brains as in the foregoing'case; pour
some nuthrown butter (No. 93) over them, place a bouquet of fried
parsley in the centre, and serve.
923. calf's rrains fried in ratter, a la provencale.
These must be cleaned, gently boiled in water, vinegar, &c; and
when drained, cut into oval scollops, and steeped in a basin with a little
oil, vinegar, pepper and salt. When about to send to table, fry them
in batter in the usual way (see directions for calf's ears No. 916), after
which dish them up with some Provencale sauce (No. 25) under them,
and serve.
Note.—They may also be served with Tomata, Italian, Piquante, or
Poivrade sauce.
924. calf's rrains scolloped.
When the brains have been dressed, cut them into rather small scol-
lops, and put them into a sautapan with a few scolloped mushrooms
and truffles, season with a little cayenne and grated nutmeg, pour in
some Allemande sauce (No. 1) and juice of half a lemon; toss the
whole gently together over the fire, and with this preparation fill as
many silver scollop shells as will hold it; cover these over with a
coating of fried bread-crumbs or raspings, place them for two minutes
in a hot oveu to gratinate, dish them up on a napkin, and serve.


316
ENTREES OF LAMB,
COMPRISING
Shoulder of Lamb, larded, d la Financier/:. Lamb Cutlets, bread-crumbed, with Asps»
Nock of Lamb, d la Higence. ragus Peas.
JSpiyramme of Lamb, with Mushrooms. „ d la Chei-reute.
„ „ d la Villerci, with Peas. Braised Carhonnadet of Lamb.
Breasts of Lamb, d la Sfarfchale, with New Lamb's Sweetbretds, a la Touloiue, Ac.
Potatoes. Blanquette of Lamb's Sweetbreads.
Lamb Cutlets (plain), with Cucumbers, Ac. Lamb's Sweetbreads Scolloped.
925. SHOULDER OF LAMB LARDED, A LA FINANCIERE.
Saw off the upper part of the shank-bone of a shoulder of lamb, then
bone it entirely—with the exception of about three inches of the shauk
or leg bone, which must be left in. Spread the shoulder open, season
with pepper and salt, garnish it with a thick layer of veal or fowl force-
meat; then with a small trussing-needle and some fine string draw the
outer edges of the skinny part of the shoulder into a purse-like form,
and tighten the strings so as to give it the appearance of a cushion;
and, after removing the superficial skin in a circular shape, lard it
closely. Next, strew the bottom of a stewpan with sliced carrot, onion, •
celery, and a garnished faggot of parsley; cover this with thin layers
of fat bacon, and place the shoulder of lamb upon it; moisten with
sufficient good stock to reach up to the larding, place a buttered paper
on the top, and cover with the lid; then set it to braize very gently
upon a slow fire for about an hour and a half,—with some live embers
of charcoal'on the lid—and take care to baste it frequently. When
done, remove it into a deep sautapan, and after having strained the
liquor, free it from all grease, boil it down to half glaze, pour this on
to the lamb, and put it in the oven to glaze, repeatedly basting the
larding till the moisture is lessened. The ballotine* or shoulder of
lamb must then be placed upon its dish, and garnished with a Financiers
ragout (No. 188); put a paper ruffle on the bone, and serve.
926. NECK OF LAMB, A LA BEGENCE.
Prepare this in exactly the same way as directed for necks of mutton
larded en chevaux-de-frise (No. 611). When braized, glaze it nicely,
and place it upon its dish, garnish it with a white Toulouse ragout
(No. 187), and serve.
Note.—Necks of lamb prepared as the foregoing, may also be served
with a 31acSdoine of vegetables, or a Jardiniere.
927. EPIGRAMME OF LAMB, A LA TOULOUSE.
Trim a neck of lamb into cutlets, and place them into a santapan
with some clarified butter; then braize a breast of lamb until quite
tender, take it up, remove the bones and put it in press between two
dishes; when cold, cut it into as many cutlet-shaped pieces as there are
i
• Shoulders of Lamb, prepared in the foregoing manner—called, in French, '• Ballvl-
inet"—may also bo served with every kind of dressed vegetables, or/wi ltt of vegetables.


ENTREES OF LAMB. 317
cutlets from the neck, insert a small piece of bone in each, and bread-
crumb them over a coating of Allemande sauce, dip them in some
beaten egg, bread-crumb them again, and place them in a sautapan
with clarified butter. When about to send to table, fry the cutlets in
both sautapans; as soon as they are done, glaze them lightly, and dish
them up—alternately placing a plain cutlet and one that is bread-
crumbed ; fill the centre with a white Toulouse ragout (No. 187), pour
some Espagnole half-glaze round the entree, and serve.
Note.—Epigrammes of lamb may also be garnished with a blanquette,
with scollops of cucumbers, stewed peas, asparagus-peas, &c
928. BBEA8T3 OF LAMB, A LA VILLEROI, WITH PEAS.
Braize two breasts of lamb, in the stock-pot, or in any kind of
white broth; when done, take them up carefully, remove all the bones,
and reserve these for the purpose of making cutlet bones with; put
the breast in press between two dishes, and when cold, cut them into
about twelve pieces, in the form of an elongated heart, or of a cutlet;
stick a small bone in at the narrow end, and spread a coating of re-
duced Allemande sauce over them; when this is set firm by cooling,
roll them first in bread-crumbs, and then dip them in beaten egg, and
bread-crumb them over again. When about to send to table, fry these
cutlets in plenty of hog's-lard quite hot, dish them up, garnish them
with stewed peas, pour some half-glaze round the base, and serve.
Note.—Breasts of lamb prepared a la Villeroi may also be served
with spinach, endives, cucumbers, asparagus-peas, Macedoine, &c
929. BREAST OF LAMB, A LA MARECHALE, WITH NEW
POTATOES.
Trim and prepare these in the same way as the foregoing, but the
coating of sauce must be thinner in this case; bread-crumb them twice
over the sauce, first dipped in beaten egg and then in clarified butter,
over which bread-crumb them the second time; put them in shape
with the blade of a knife, and place them in a sautapan with a little
clarified butter. When about to send to table, fry the cutlets of a
light color, drain them on a sheet of paper and glaze them lightly;
dish them up, and serve some white Italian sance (No. 13) under
them. They may also be served with all kinds of vegetable garnishes.
930. LAMB CUTLETS PLAIN, WITH CUCUMBERS.
In trimming these cutlets, care must be taken not to pare off any
more of the fat than is positively necessary to give them shape.
When trimmed, place the cutlets in a sautapan with clarified butter,
season with pepper and salt, fry them on both sides of a light-brown
color, pour off the grease, throw in a little glaze, toss them over the
fire in this, and dish them up; garnish the centre with prepared
scollops of cucumbers (No. 138), pour a little Espagnole or half-glaze
round the entree, and serve.
931. LAMB CUTLETS, BREAD-CRUMBED, WITH ASPARAGUS-PEAS.
Trim the cutlets, season with pepper and salt, rub them over with
a paste-brush dipped in yolks of eggs, and roll them in bread-crumbs;


318 ENTREES OF LAMB.
then dip them in some clarified batter, and bread-crumb them over
again; put them in shape with the blade of a knife, and place them in
neat order in a sautapan with some clarified butter. When abont to
send to table, fry the cutlets of a light color, drain them upon a
sheet of paper, glaze and dish them up; fill the centre with asparagus-
peas (No. 148), pour some thin Espagnole or half-glaze round them,
and serve.
932. LAMB CUTLETS, A LA CHEVREUSE.
These must be cut rather thick, allowing two ribs for each, but they
should not be trimmed; prepare and braize them in the same manner
as veal cutlets a la Dreux (No. 890); and when done, pressed, and
trimmed, mask them over with a puree of onions mixed with two ounces
of grated Parmesan cheese; when cold they should be dipped in beaten >
egg, and afterward rolled in bread-crumbs; put them into shape with
the blade of a knife, and place them in order upon a dish or sautapan,
until dinner-time. Then fry them in heated hog's-lard, of a bright-
yellow color, dish them up, put a small paper frill on the bone of each
cutlet; fill the centre with small circular scollops of truffles, mush-
rooms, and fat livers, tossed in some Supreme sauce (No. 38), pour
some of the sauce round the base of the entree, and serve.
Note.—In addition to the foregoing methods for dressing lamb
cutlets, they may also be served in every variety of form in which veal
or mutton cutlets are prepared.
933. BRAIZED CARBONNADES OF LAMB.
Loins of Iamb are used for this, and should be prepared and finished
according to the directions for carbonnades of mutton (No. 865).
934. LAMB'S SWEETBREADS, A LA TOULOUSE.
Arout ten heart sweethreads are necessary for an entree; steep these
in cold water for a couple of hours, and then scald them slightly to set
them, for the purpose of being afterward larded; they must next be
placed in a deep sautapan, covered with thin layers of fat bacon or else
spread with butter; moisten with sufficient strong consomme to reach
nearly up to the larding; place a but-
tered paper upon them, and put them
to boil briskly on a stove-fire for
five minutes, then set them in the
oven, or cover them with a lid con-
taining live embers of charcoal, and
place them on a moderate stove-fire
to simmer gently for a quarter of an
hour, frequently basting them with •
their own liquor. When the sweet-
breads are nearly done, remove the
lid and the paper, put them in the
oven, or pass the red-hot salamander over them to dry the larding, and
then glaze them. When dished up, each sweethread should be placed
in the dish upon a base, formed of quenelle force-meat made of fowl or
veal, aud shaped to resemble a dariole-mould: these of course should


lamrs' heads, ears, and feet. 319
be previously poached. Fill the centre of the entree with stewed peas,
pour some Espagnole sauce round the base, and serve.
Note.—Lambs' sweethreads prepared as the foregoing, may also be
served with asparagus, Macedoine or Jardiniere of vegetables; also with
Toulouse or Financiere ragouts; and indeed in every form directed for
other sweethreads.
935. BLANQUETTE OF LAMB'S SWEETBREADS.
Throat sweethreads will serve for this purpose, about eight being
sufficient for a dish; steep them in water, scald them, and then braize
them in a small stewpan with very little moisture; they will be done
in about a quarter of an hour; put them on a dish to cool, cut them
into scollops, and put them into a stewpan containing some sauce
d la Poulette, toss the whole together till warm, then dish up the blan-
quelle in a conical form, garnish it round with a border of potato
crdquettes made in the form of pears and serve.
Note.—Mushrooms, truffles, cucumbers, or asparagus-peas may be
added.
936. SCOLLOPED LAMB'S SWEETBREADS.
Braize the sweethreads, when cold cut them into rather thin small
scollops, and finish these according to the directions for scolloped
calPs brains (No. 924).
LAMBS' HEADS, EARS, AND FEET,
COMPRISING
Lamb'e Head, <i la Pa»caline. Lamb's Ears, fried in Butter.
Lamb's Ears, a la Financiirs. Lamb's Feet, d la Poulette.
"« la Vauphine. H d la d* Uxellee.
"a) la Venitiinne. "fried in Batter.
937. lamr's head, a la pascaline.
The lamb's head must be scalded in the same way as a calPs head
for mock turtle, then boned, and filled up with force-meat made of
the liver, as for a gratin (No. 249) ; sew the the head up with a trussing
needTe and small twine, secure it in shape by fastening it in a napkin
previously spread with butter, and set it to braize in a stewpan
seasoned with a carrot, an onion, one head of celery, a garnished fag-
got of parsley, six cloves, and a blade of mace; moisten with good
stock, and allow it to boil gently for abont an hour and a half.
While the above is in preparation, four lambs' sweethreads should
\>e larded and prepared ready for glazing; two sets of lambs' brains
must also be cleansed, and boiled in a little vinegar and water,
with sliced carrot and onion, pepper and salt, afterward drained, cut
and made into croquettes. Four lamb's tongues, after being braized,
must be cut into scollops, and placed in a stewpan with an equal
quantity of scolloped mushrooms, and enough of Pascaline sauce (No.
15), for the entrie.


320 ENTREES OF LAMBS' HEADS.
When about to send to table, place the head with the ears curled
upon its dish, and the larded sweethreads at its four corners; between
these put the croquettes of brains, previously fried, pour the scollops
of tongue, mushrooms, and sauce round the head, glaze it and serve.
938. lamrs' ears, a la financiers.
Procure a dozen lambs' ears, scald these, then immerse them in
cold water; when cold, wipe them dry, and singe them over the
flame of a charcoal fire; they must then be gently braized in some
blanc (No. 235) for about three-quarters of an hour, and when done
drain upon a napkin; the thin part of the ears should be carefully
scraped with the back part of the blade of a knife to remove the skin,
leaving the white cartilaginous part entire; this last must then be
slit in narrow bands, without cutting through the ends, so that when
the ears are turned down, these bands by curling over shonld appear
like a row of loops; place the ears as they are trimmed in a deep
sautapan or stewpan containing some of their own liquor, cover them
with a buttered paper and the lid, and set them aside till dinner-time.
While the ears are braizing, prepare some veal force-meat, and fill a
plain low cylinder border mould (previously buttered) with the force-
meat; poach this in the usual way, and when about to send to table,
turn it out upon its dish, place the lambs' ears all round the top of it
and in each of these put a round ball of black truffle; fill the centre
with a rich Financiere ragout (No. 188), pour some of the sauce round
the base and serve.
Note.—This entree may also be served with a ragout A la Tortul
(No 189).
939. lamrs' ears, a la dauphine.
ScAl*D, singe, braize, and trim the lambs' ears as in the foregoing case,
but they must not be slit. Fill them with force-meat made with the
fillets of a fowl, or some veal, in which has been mixed a spoonful of
white sauce and some chopped mushrooms; mask the ears over with a
coating of reduced Allemande sauce, and when this has become firmly set
upon them, roll them in bread-crumbs, and dip each separately in
some beaten ogg seasoned with a little salt, then bread-crumb them
over again, place them upon a dish, and set them aside in the larder.
When about to send to table, fry the ears in plenty of heated hog's-
lard, of a fine light color, dish them up in a circular row, or pyra-
midally, pour some Supreme or Bichamel sauce, containing a few
mushrooms cut into shreds or scollops, round and under them, and serve.
940. lamrs' ears, a la venitienne.
Prepare these exactly in the same manner as for a la Financiere
(No. 938), dish them up in a circle on the dish, fill the centre with
small round balls, or croquettes of rice, prepared as follows: Boil four
ounces of rice in white broth till done quite soft, then season with a
pat of butter, two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, a little nutmeg,
Cayenne pepper and salt; mix the whole well together, and form it
into small round balls the size of marbles, roll these in flour, and fry
them in clarified butter in a sautapan. Pour some Venetian sauce
(No. 26) over the ears, and serve.


ENTREES OF PORK.
321
941. lamb's ears, fried is batter.
Sei Calfs ears so prepared (No. 916).
942. lamb's feet, a la poulette.
Remove the shank-bones from a dozen lambs' feet, without tearing
or cutting through the part that covers the bone; scald them for
about five minutes in boiling water, and then immerse them in cold,
water; wipe and singe them over the flume of a charcoal fire, rub
them over with lemon-juice, and braize them in some blanc (No. 235)
for about an hour; then drain them upon a cloth, trim off the
extremities neatly, make an incision in the hoof, and remove the
round tuft of wool; place the lamb's feet in a stewpan containing
some button-mushrooms and enough sauce d la Poulette for the entr&e,
toss them in this over the stove-fire nntil quite warm; then dish
them up neatly, and serve with a border of fieurons, or croutons of
fried bread.
943. lamb's feet, a la d'uxelles.
Beaize and trim the feet as in the foregoing case, cover them with
a coating of B'JJxelles sauce (No. 16), and when this has become
firmly set by cooling, bread-crumb them twice over in the usual manner,
and fry them in hog's lard; when done, drain them upon a cloth, dish
them up with fried parsley upon a napkin, and serve some Italian
sauce (No. 12) separately in a boat.
944. lamb's feet, fried xs batter.
Sm Calf's feet (No. 918).
ENTREES OF PORK,
COMPRISING
Orifkin, or Spare-rib, of Pork, d la Soubiie. Pig's Feet, d la Ste. Mtnehould.
M n d la Lyonnaite. „ d la Pirigord.
„ „ d la Piritjuatx. „ d la Richelieu.
Pork Cutlets, with plain gravy, Ao. Black Puddings, d la Franfaitt.
„ dla tauce Robert, Ac. ,, <t I'Anglaitt.
„ & r Aurora. White Puddings, d la Royal:
n d VInditnne*
945. GRISKIN, OR SPARE-RIB OF PORK, A LA SOUBISE.
Trim a griskin of pork, and lard it closely, then put it in a deep
dish with Bliced onion and carrot, parsley, a gill of salad oil, some slices
of peeled lemon, and a little mignionette pepper; allow the griskin to
steep in this for several hours, or a whole day, if possible. When
about to dress the griskin, twist it round, run a stout iron skewer
through, and fasten it upon the spit tightly with string; cover the
larding with buttered paper, and roast it before the fire for about an
hour; as soon as a kind of vapor arises, and it sputters toward the
fire, it is time to take it up. When the griskin is placed upon its
dish, pour some Soubise sauce (No. 119) round it, garnish with a bor-
der of potatoes fried in clarified butter, glaze the griskin, and serve.
20


322 ENTREES OF PORK.
946. GRISKIN OF PORK, A LA LYONNAISE.
Prepare and roast this in the same way as the foregoing, and when
done, dish it up with some Lyonnaise sauce (No. 24) round it; gar-
nish with a border of tomatas au gratin (No. 1160), glaze the griskin,
and serve.
947. GRISKIN OF PORK, A LA PERIGUEUX.
This must be prepared and-roasted as the foregoing; when done,
serve with some Pirigueux sauce (No. 23), and a border of mushrooms
au gratin (1161) aound it.
948. PORK CUTLETS, PLAIN BROILED, WITH GRAVY, ETC.
These cutlets must be cut from the neck or loin of dairy-fed pork,
not too fat; they should be trimmed but very little, the rough part of
the chine-bone only requiring to be removed; thr skin must be left
on, and scored in six places. Season the cutlets with pepper and salt,
and broil them ou a gridiron over a clear fire; coke makes a better fire
than coal for broiling, as it emits no gas, and causes less smoke. Take
care that they are thoroughly done and not scorched; dish them up
with any of the following gravies or sauces, and serve:—Plan sage
and onion, shalot, onion, fine-herbs, gravies, or essences: Piquante,
Gherkin, Tomata, Poivrade*, Poor-man's, Richelieu, and Qasconne
sauces.
949. PORK CUTLETS, A LA SAUCE ROBERT, ETC.
Trim the cutlets neatly, observing, however, that nearly half an
inch of the fat must be left on, to encircle the fillet of the cutlet;
place them in an earthen dish with a table-spoonful of salad oil;
season with a little salt and pepper, and strew some parsley over
them. When about to send to table, broil the cutlets nicely with
the gravy in them, glaze and dish them up; pour under some sauce
a la Robert (No. 67), and serve.
950. PORK CUTLETS, A LAURORE.
Trim the cutlets neatly, season with pepper and salt, and place
them in a sautapan with some clarified butter. About twenty minutes
before sending to table, fry the cutlets over a brisk fire, so as to
lightly color them on both sides before they are done, then pour off
all the grease, leaving the cutlets neatly arranged in the sautapan,
.and glaze them. Next rub the yolks of six eggs, previously boiled
hard, equally over all the cutlets, and pass the red-hot salamander
over them to color the yolk of egg a shade darker; then dish up the
cutlets with some essence of anchovies (No. 176) poured under them,
and serve.
951. PORK CUTLETS, A L'lNDIENNE.
Fry the cutlets brown on both sides, then pour off all the grease,
adding about half a pint of Espagnole sauce, and a table-spoonful of
Cook's curry paste; put the lid on the sautapan, and simmer the cut-
lets on the fire very gently for ten minutes longer; then add a small
piece of glaze, toss the whole together, dish them up in a close circle,
fill the centre with rice boiled in plain broth, pour the sauce over the
cutlets, and serve.


pig's feet. 323
952. PIGS'-FEET, A LA STE. alENEHOULD.
For this purpose procure the feet of bacon hogs, as the feet of
porkers are not large enough to be worth dressing for the table. They
must first be pickled in common salt brine, for about ten days, and
then, after being washed, should be gently braized in common broth,
seasoned with carrot, onion, celery, and garnished faggot of parsley;
if the feet are large, they will require about four hours gentle boiling.
When done, drain them on an earthen dish, cut them into halves, and
remove all the large bones, press them into shape with the hands, and
put them in the larder to'cool. Next, season the pieces of pigs'-feet
with pepper and salt, rub them over with a paste-brush dipped in
clarified butter, then roll them in fresh made bread-crumbs, and pat
these closely on with the blade of a knife; broil them on a gridiron
over a clear fire, taking care that they are frequently turned until
warmed through: they are then to be dished up and served with
Piquante sauce (No. 18).
953. PIGS'-FEET, A LA PERIGORD.
These should be braized and the bones taken out, and before they
become quite cold, filled inside, and partially covered, with some force-
meat of fat livers, in which has been mixed some chopped truffles; and
when this is placed on the feet, some scollops of truffles must also be
intermixed with it. The feet must next be wrapped up in appropriate-
sized pieces of pigs' caul, and then bread-crumbed over this. When
about to send to table, broil the feet upon oiled paper placed upon the
gridiron, to prevent them from burning or falling to pieces, which,
from the delicacy of the force-meat (if properly prepared), they are
liable to. When nicely broiled on both sides, glaze and dish them up,
and serve with some Perigueux sauce (No. 23) under them.
954. PIGS'-FEET, A LA RICHELIEU.
Braize tne feet, remove all the bones, and cut each foot in halves,
lengthwise; spread them all over with a coating of D'Uxelles sauce
(No. 16), and when this has become firmly set by cooling, bread-
crumb them twice over, the first time dipped in egg, and the second in
clarified butter: place them in a sauta-pan with clarified butter,
and fry them over a stove-fire of moderate heat, so as to allow them
time to warm through before they acquire much color. When done,
dish them up, aud serve with some Richelieu ragout (No. 207) under
them.
955. BLACK-PUDDINGS, A LA FRANCAISE.
To one pint of pig's blood, add rather more than half a pint of
boiled double cream, three-quarters of a pound of the fat from the
inside of a pig, cut into rather small pieces, and four large onions
chopped and fried in a little butter without becoming colored;
season with a little chopped bay-leaf and thyme, nutmeg, pepper, and
salt; mix well together, and stuff the linings, prepared perfectly clean
for the purpose, with the above, taking care to allow room for tying
them into lengths 'of about six inches. Some water must be kept
nearly at the boiling-point, and then removed from the fire down to
the side, and the puddings immersed, and allowed to remain in it


324 ENTREES OF VENISON.
until they become somewhat firm to the touch ; they must not, however,
be kept in the water longer than will suffice to set the preparation.
The puddings, when taken out of the water, should be hung up in the
larder to cool.
956. BLACK-PUDDINGS, A L'ANQLAISE.
The chief difference from the foregoing, in making black-puddings
according to the English method, lies in the omission of the nutmeg,
bay-leaf, and thyme, and. in the addition of boiled Embden grits or rice;
in all other respects, the same directions must be followed.
When about to dress the black-puddings, they should be scored all
over to prevent them from bursting while being broiled, and when done,
are to be dished up with strips of dry toast placed between each piece
of pudding: the centre of the dish should be filled with mashed pota-
toes to keep them quite hot.
957. WHITE-PUDDINGS, A LA ROYALE.
To half a pound of the breast of roast fowl thoroughly pounded
and passed into a puree, add half a pint of boiled double cream, half a
pound of fresh made and very fine bread-crumbs, one onion chopped
fine, and boiled down in some white broth, and four ounces of butter
and eight yolks of eggs; season with pepper and salt, and grated
nutmeg; mix well together, put this preparation into the linings, and
finish them in the same manner as the black-puddings. When about
to send to table, score the puddings before they are broiled, and place
them on the gridiron upon a sheet of oiled paper; when nicely broiled,
serve them, dished up, with either of the following sauces:—
Suprime, Richelieu, Poivrade, essence of shallots, of truffles, or of
mushrooms. ,
ENTREES OF YENISON,
COMPRISING
HaricSt of Venison. Cutlets of Roebuck, ct la Chaurvr.
Civet of Venison. Fillets of Roebuck, d la Kinnaird.
Venison Scollops. „ with Poivrade sanee.
Venison Chops. Civet of Roebuck.
Venison Fry.
958. HARICOT OF VENISON.
Trim a necK of venison into cutlets without paring off any of the
fat, season them with pepper and salt, and fry them quickly brown on
both sides before they are more than half done; then pour off all the
grease, shake a handful of flour over the cutlets, and toss them about
over the fire for three minutes, moisten with a pint of red wine and a
quart of good stock; add half a pint of small button-onions, and
twice that quantity of turnips and carrots, cut into small fanciful
shapes of the size of the onions, and a garnished faggot of parsley;
stir the haric6t over the stove-fire with a wooden spoon until it boils,
and then remove it to the side of the stove to continue gently boiling
for about an hour and a half; when, if the cutlets are found to be


SCOLLOPS OF VENISON, ETC. 325
done tender, remove them into a deep santapan; then add the vegetables
with a ragout spoon (with holes in it), and after the sauce has boiled
op and been skimmed, reduce it, if necessary, to its proper consistency,
and pass it through a tammy into a sautapan containing the cutlets,
Ac; then add a little salt, if needed; simmer the whole together on
the stove-fire, dish the cutlets in the usual way, fill the centre with the
vegetables Dour the sauce over the entree, and serve.
959. ANOTHER METHOD.
Fry the cutlets brown, pour off all the grease, add a pint of red wine,
a pint of Espagnole, and the same proportion of consomme, season with
a carrot, an onion, head of celery, and a garnished faggot of parsley;
allow the whole to simmer gently by the side of the stove-fire until the
cutlets are tender; they must then be removed into a sautapan, with
a little of the sauce to warm them in, the lid put on, and kept warm.
The remainder of the sauce must then be strained through a sieve into
a smaller stewpan; and after it has been clarified, by gently boiling it
by the side of the stove-fire, and thoroughly skimming all that rises to
the surface, reduce it by boiling to its proper consistency, and pass it
through a tammy into a bain-marie. When about to send to table,
dish the cutlets up, fill the centre with some glazed carrots and turnips,
previously prepared for the purpose; place some groups of small glazed
button-onions round the entree, pour the sauce over the cutlets, and
serve.
Some neat frills of paper may be put on the bone of each cutlet.
960. CIVET OF VENISON.
This dish, although not very choice, is often served at the tables of
wealthy epicures; in general, the inferior parts of venison,—such as
the shoulder and scrag end of the neck—are used for this purpose.
The venison must be cut up into pieces, and for its preparation follow
the directions for making a civet of hare (No. 1070).
961. VENISON SCOLLOPS.
Venison for this purpose ought to be kept until it has become
quite tender: a piece of the end of the neck may be used. Cut the
fillet from the bones, with all the fat adhering to it, remove the outer
skin, and then cut it into scollops—taking care not to trim off more
of the fat than is necessary; place them in a sautapan with clarified
batter, season with pepper and salt, and fry them brown on both sides;
poor off all the grease, add some scollops of mushrooms, a piece of
glaze, and a glass of Port wine; simmer the whole together over the
stove-fire for about three minutes, and then pour in some Poivrade
sauce (No. 29); toss the scollops in the sauce on the fire untit quite
hot, and then dish them up with a border of quenelles of potatoes
(No. 312), and serve.
These scollops may also be served with Portarlington sweet sauce
(No. 66), iu which case the mushrooms must be omitted.
962. VENISON CHOPS.
Cut the chops about an inch thick, from the end of the haunch or
the best end of the neck, flatten them a little with a cutlet bat, trim


326 ENTREES OF VENISON.
them without waste, season with pepper and salt, and broil them on a
gridiron, over a clear fire of moderate heat; turning them over every
three minutes while on the fire; when done through with their gravy
in them, lift them carefully off the gridiron without spilling the gravy
that may be swimming on the surface, dish them up with a little rich
brown gravy nnder them, and serve some currant-jelly or venison sweet
sauce (No. 65), separately, in a boat.
963. VENISON FRY.
Cut the fry into appropriate-sized pieces, season with pepper and
salt, place them in a napkin, and shake them up with a handful of flour,
then fry them brown and crisp in a santapan or frying-pan with soma
butter; when done, dish them up in a pile with fried parsley round,
pour either of the following sauces under it, and serve quite hot: rich
brown gravy, essence of anchovies, Poivrade, Espagnole, Italian, or
Piquante sauce.
964. CUTLETS OF ROEBUCK, A LA CHASSEUR.
Trim the cutlets in the usual way, and place them in a santapan
with clarified butter, season with pepper and salt, and set them in the
larder. Put the shoulder on the spit, wrap it in buttered paper, and
roast it before a fire of moderate heat until done; all the meat must
then be cut from the bone, chopped fine, and thoroughly ponnded in a
mortar with a spoonful of sauce and a pat of butter, then robbed
through a tammy or very fine wire sieve, into a purie; this must be
gathered up into a small stewpan and placed with the cutlets. When
about to send to table, fry the cutlets brown, pour off the grease, add
a piece of glaze, two large spoonfuls of Espagnole or Poivrade sauce
(if the former, add some lemon-juice also); allow the cutlets to simmer
over the fire for a few minutes, and then dish them up; fill the centre
with the pur&t—previously wanned with care, and to which a piece
(if glaze has been added—pour the sauce over the entree, and serve.
965. FILLETS OF ROEBUCK, A LA KINNAIRD.
Cut out the fillets from two necks of roebuck, trim these neatly, and
lard them closely; steep them for about two days and nights in some
cold marinade (No. 234), and when about to dress the fillets, drain
them upon a cloth, place them in a santapan spread with butter, and
moisten with some wine mirepoix (No. 236) in sufficient quantity to
reach up to the larding; place a buttered paper on the top, and put
them to braize in the oven.; baste them frequently with their own
liquor, and when done, glaze them nicely, and place them on their dish;
garnish with groups of quenelles made with roebuck, and small pota-
toes cut in the form of large olives and fried in clarified butter; pour
some Napolitaine sauce (No. 63) under the entree, glaze the fillets, and
serve.
966. FILLETS OF ROEBUCK, WITH POIVRADE SAUCB.
These are prepared in the same manner as the foregoing; when
done and glazed, dish them up with a border of potatoes, cut in the
form of olives, and fried in clarified butter, pour some Poivrade sauce
(No. 29) under them, and serve.


ENTREES OF POULTET. 327
967. CIVET OF ROEBUCK
Is prepared in the same way as civet of hare (1070).
ENTREES OF POULTRY,
COMPRISING
Fricassee of Chickens, with Mushrooms, Ac. Chiokens, d la Lyonnaite.
„ a la St. Lambert. „ d la Diable.
It d la Dauphine. „ a la Tartare.
„ d la Financi&rc „ it PAlgtriinne.
„ d la Chevalilre. „ d la Florentine.
i, d la Surname. Curry of ditto, <J I'Indi'tnne.
Chiokens, d la Marengo. FrMt of Chickens, with Tomatn Sauce, Ac
„ with Oysters, Ac. Capilotade of Chiokens, i! I'ltalitnne.
„ with Truffles, Ac. Chickens, d la Toecane.
„ d la Provencale. Marinade of Chiokens, fried in Batter.
968. FRICASSEE OF CHICKENS, WITH MUSHROOMS, ETC.
Procure two fat, plump chickens, and after they have been drawn,
singe them over the flame of a charcoal fire, and then cut up into small
members or joints, in the following manner:—First, remove the wings
at the second joint, and the legs at the knotty bend of the first joint;
then take hold of the chicken with the left hand, and with a sharp knife
make two parallel cuts, lengthwise, on the back, about an inch and a
half apart, so as partly to detach or at least to mark out where the legs
and wings are to be removed; the chicken must next be placed upon
its side on the table, and, after the leg and fillet (with the pinion left
on the upper side) have been cut, the same must be repeated on the *
other, and the thigh-bones must be removed. Then, separate the back
and breast, trim these without waste, and cut the back across into two
pieces: steep the whole in a pan containing clear tepid water for about
ten minutes, frequently squeezing the pieces with the hand to extract
all the blood. Next, strew the bottom of a stewpan with thinly-sliced
carrot, onion, and a little celery, three cloves, twelve pepper-corns, a
blade of mace, and a garnished faggot of parsley; place the pieces
of chicken in close and neat order upon the vegetables, &c, moisten
with about a quart of boiling broth from the stockpot, or failing this,
with water, cover with the lid, and set the whole to boil gently by the
side of the stove-fire for about half an hour, when the chickens will be
done. They must then be strained in a sieve, and their broth reserved
in a basin; next, immerse the pieces of chicken in cold water, wash
and drain them upon a napkin, and afterward trim them neatly and
place them in a stewpan in the larder. Then put 2 oz. of fresh butter
to -melt in a stewpan, to this add two tablespoonfuls of flour, and stir
the roux over the fire for three minutes without allowing it to acquire
any color; it should then be removed from the stove, and the chicken-
broth being poured into it, the whole must be thoroughly mixed to-
gether into a smooth sauce; throw in some trimmings of mushrooms,
and stir the sauce over the fire until it boils, then set it by the side to
continue gently boiling to throw up the butter and scum. When the


328
ENTREES OF POULTRY.
sauce has boiled half an hour, skim it, reduce it by further boiling to
its proper consistency, and then incorporate with it a leason of four
yolks of eggs, mixed with a pat of bntter and a little cream; set the
leason in the sauce by stirring it over the fire until it nearly boils, then
pass it through a tammy into the stewpan containing the pieces of
chicken, and add thereto half a pottle of prepared button-mnshrooms.
When about to send to table, warm the fricassee without allowing it to
boil, and dish it up as follows:
First, put the pieces of the back in the centre of the dish, place the
legs at the angles, the bones pointed inwardly; next, place the fillets
upon these, and then set the pieces of breast on the top; pour the
sauce over the entree, and place the mushrooms about the fricassee in
groups; surround the entree with eight or ten glazed crbutons of fried
bread cut in the form of hearts, and serve.
Note.—Truffles cut into scollops, or shaped In the form of olives;
crayfish-tails, button-onions, or artichoke-bottoms, cut into small pointed
quarters, may also be served with a fricassee of chickens.
969. FRICASSEE OF CHICKENS, A LA ST. LAMBERT.
Cut Into small dice the following vegetables, &c.: one carrot, an
onion, one head of celery, and 4 oz. of raw ham; put these into a
stewpan with a small piece of butter, half a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme,
three cloves, a blade of mace, and a few pepper-corns; stir these over
a slow fire for about ten minutes, without allowing them to acquire any
color, then moisten the whole with a pint of French white wine, and
the same quantity of common broth; boil this gently for half an hour,
and then strain it through a sieve into a basin. Next, cut the chickens
up as directed in the foregoing case; melt 3 oz. of butter in a stewpan,
throw in the pieces of chicken, and toss them over the fire until they
•become set and feel firm to the touch, without, however, acquiring any
color; then shake in two table-spoonfuls of flour, toss the whole to-
gether over the fire for two minutes, and pour in the broth prepared
for the purpose; stir the fricassee over the fire until it boils, and finish
it in the same way as the foregoing. When about to send to table,
warm and dish up the fricassee, place about it small groups of glazed
carrots, turnips, and French-beans, cut into small fanciful shapes, and
garnish the base by placing a border composed of about eight small
artichoke-bottoms, nicely turned and boiled, each filled alternately with
glazed carrots aud green-peas; pour the sauce round the entree, and
serve.
970. FRICASSEE OF CHICKENS, A LA DAUPHINE.
Prepare a fricassee in the . same manner as described in No. 968,
and place the pieces of chicken, when trimmed, on an earthen dish;
after having reduced the sauce to the consistency of Allemande, incor-
porate the leason, &c, and when this is set in the sauce, pass it
through a tammy into a small basin; dip each of the pieces of chicken
in this, and replace them on the dish; when the sauce has become set
upon them by cooling, roll them in bread-crumbs, let them be dipped
in beaten egg, and bread-crumbed over again. When about to seud
to table, place the pieces of chicken thus prepared carefully upon the
wire lining of a frying-pan, immerse them all at once in plenty of


FRICASSEE OF CHICKENS. 329
clean hog's lard heated for the purpose, fry them of a light color;
and when done, drain them upon a cloth, dish them up on a clean
napkin with fried parsley, and serve some white Italian sauce (No. 13),
separately in a boat.
Note.—This entree may also be dished up without a napkin, and
some Allemande or Bechamel sauce, containing a few scollops of
mushrooms or truffles, may be poured under, and round it.
971. FRICASSEE OF CHICKENS, A LA FINANCIERE.
Prepare this as directed in No. 968, and when it is dished up,
garnish it with groups of cocks'-combs, mushrooms, truffles, and some
small quenelles of fowl; place eight large crayfish in an upright posi-
tion round the entree, and a larded sweethread on the top.
972. FRICASSEE OF CHICKENS, A LA CHEVALIERE.
When the chickens have been drawu and singed, remove the legs
and wings, and then, with the point of a knife, slit the skin of the
breast, spread it off the fillets, and
remove these with the pinion-bone
left on them; each fillet must be
trimmed, then closely larded, and
placed in a small sauta-pan upon
thin layers of fat bacon; the min-
ion fillets should also be trimmed
(the sinew being first extracted),
then decorated or contises with
black truffle and placed in a sauta-
pan with butter; the remainder of
the chickens must be cut up and
made into a fricassee in the ordinary
way. When this is done, the four
legs must be neatly trimmed and set aside in the larder, and the
smaller pieces placed in a stewpan with a few button mushrooms,
cocks'-combs and kernels and truffles; then, reduce the same by boil-
ing it to the consistency of Allemande sauce, incorporate these with a
leason of four yolks of eggs, a little grated nutmeg, mignionctte pep-
per, a small piece of glaze, and the juice of half a lemon; when this
has become set in the sauce by stirring it over the fire for two minutes,
pass two thirds of it through a tammy on to the fricassee, and reserve
the remainder for the purpose of masking the legs with it. These
must be afterwards bread-crumbed and fried of a light color. The
larded fillets should be moistened with a little half-glaze, and put in
the oven, or on a slow stove with fire on the lid, to braize or simmer
for about twenty minutes; they are then to be glazed. In dishing
up this entree, first place all the small members of the chicken in the
bottom of the dish in neat and square order; the legs are next to
be added, and then the larded fillets must be placed between these
with the taper end pointing upward; the four minion fillets (turned
round in the form of rings) should be placed so as to rest upon the
upper part of each of the legs, and the whole surmounted with a
large truffle, and a border of large crayfish, and white double cocks'-
combs should be placed round the entree; add the remainder of the
sauce, and serve.


CHICKENS. 331
976. CHICKENS WITH TRUFFLES, A' LA FINANCIERE.
Prepare these as in the foregping case, and when they are fried
brown, pour off the grease; add a rich Financiere ragout (No. 188), .
and half a ponnd of truffles cut into scollops or round balls; simmer
the whole together on the fire for five minutes, and then dish up the
entree as directed in the foregoing cases; pour the ragout over it,
garnish with crdutons and crayfish, and serve.
977. CHICKENS, A LA PROVENCALE.
Cut four large onions into rings, put them into a sautapan with a
gill of salad-oil, and fry them of a light-brown color; then add two
chickens cut up and trimmed as for a fricassee; season with mignkm-
ette pepper, and salt, a garuished faggot of parsley, and a clove of
garlic; cover with the lid containing some live embers of charcoal,
and set the chickens to simmer briskly over a moderate fire for about
half an hour. Put about two dozen morels or mushrooms into a small
stewpan with some chopped truffles, shalots, mushrooms, and parsley;
moisten with a table-spoonful of salad-oil, and a glass of Madeira;
6tew these on the fire for five minutes, and then boil the whole down
to a glaze. When the chickens are done, pour off all the grease, add
the morels, &c, a piece of glaze, and some Tomata sauce (No. 22);
simmer the whole together for five minutes over the fire, then dish
up the eritrie in a conical form, pour the ragout over it, and serve.
978. CHICKENS, A LA LYONNAISE.
Cut these up and fry them in butter, as directed for the chickens
with oysters; when they are done, pour off all the grease, add some
Lyonnaise sauce (No. 24), simmer the whole together ou the stove-fire
for ten minutes, and serve.
979. CHICKENS, A LA DIABLE.
Fihst draw and singe the chickens, and then twist their legs inside
neatly through the sides without tearing the skin; next cut them
through the breast-bone, lengthwise, into halves; take out all the
bones, season with pepper and salt, rub them over with a paste-brush
dipped in clarified butter, and broil them on both sides, of a light
color; when done, dish them up and glaze them over, pour some
sauce a la DixMe (No. 17) under them, and serve.
980. CHICKENS, A LA TARTARE.
Bone the chickens as in the foregoing case, season with pepper and
salt, rub tlmm over with a paste-brush dipped in yolks of eggs, bread-
crumb them, then spread ou some clarified butter, and bread-crumb
them over again; pat the bread-crumbs closely together with the blade
of a knife, broil them carefully to prevent their acquiring much color,
and when done, glaze them lightly, and serve with some half glaze
under them. Send some Tarlare sauce (No. 96) separately in a boat.
981. CHICKENS, A L'ALOERIENNE.
Cut these up as for a fricassee, place the pieces in a deep sautapan
with some clarified butter, and about one pound of raw ham cut intc
neat scollops; season with cayenne, a garnished faggot of parsley and


332 ENTREES OF POULTRY.
green-onions, and a clove of garlic; fry the chickens over a brisk fire
until they acquire a fine yellow color; then pour off the grease, and
add a glass of Madeira, a teaspoonful of curry-paste, a piece of glaze,
two gravy-spoonfuls of Espagnole sauce, and half a pottle of mush-
rooms; simmer the whole together over the fire for ten minutes, then
add a pat of butter and the juice of half a lemon. Dish up the entrie
in a pyramidal form, reserving the pieces of breast atid the fillets to
be placed uppermost; garnish with the ham and mushrooms, pour the
sauce over all, place twelve croutons of bread round the base, and serve.
982. CHICKENS, A LA FLORENTINE.
For this purpose, choose two very small spring chickens, bone
them in halves, trim them neatly, season with mignionette pepper and
salt, and place them in a deep santapan with half a gill of salad-oil,
and a garnished faggot of parsley and green-onions containing a clove
of garlic; then add half a pound of raw ham or streaky bacon, cut up
into square pieces and parboiled in water for ten minutes, a table-
spoonful of the powder of sweet red pimento, half a pint of small
button-onions, also parboiled in water for five minutes, the same
quantity of small carrots turned in the form of olives, and half a pottle
of mushrooms. Set the whole over a moderate fire until the pieces
of chicken, &c, acquire a light color, then pour off all the grease,
add a glass of Malaga wine and a piece of glaze; simmer the whole
together over a brisk fire until the moistening is reduced to a glaze;
toss the pieces of chicken. &c, about in this to make it adhere to
them, and immediately dish up the entree, reserving the mushrooms,
Ac, to be placed in groups about the dish; next, pour a spoonful of
Espagnole sauce into the sautapan, add the juice of half a lemon, allow
this sauce to simmer, pour it over the entrie, and serve.
983. CURRY OF CHICKENS, A L'lNDIENNE
Cut these as for a fricassee, trim them neatly, place them in a
sautapan with some clarified butter, and fry them over a stove-fire
until they become firm to the touch; then pour off all the grease, add
sufficient curry-sauce (No. 47) for the entrfe, and set the curry to
simmer very gently over a slow stove-fire until the pieces of chicken
have become perfectly tender; the entree may then be dished up, and
sauce poured over it, and with some plain boiled rico separately.
984. ANOTHER METHOD.
Fry the pieces of chicken or fowl in butter, until they are brightly
browned all over, and remove them into a stewpan; then slice up
three large onions and two heads of celery, and put these into a stew-
pan, together with a clove of garlic, a garnished faggot of parsley, a
blade of mace, and four cloves. Fry the whole over a slow fire until
they acquire a light-brown color; add a large table-spoonful of
Cook's meat-curry-paste, and a similar proportion of flour : mix all the
above together, and moisten with a pint of good broth or gravy; stir
the sauce over the fire and keep it boiling for about twenty minutes,
then rub the whole through a hair-sieve or tammy, and afterward
pour it to the pieces of chicken. Set the curry to simmer gently over
a slow fire until the pieces of chicken become tender, when the enirim
may be served as in the former case.


MARINADE OF CHICKENS. 333
985. FRITOT OF CHICKENS, WITH TOMATA SAUCE, ETC.
The chickens most be cut up as for a fricassee, and the pieces neatly
trimmed ; then place them in a basin with some slices of onion, parsley,
bay-leaf, and thyme, mignionette pepper and a little salt, three table-
spoonfuls of salad-oil, and the juice of a lemon; steep them in this for
several hours; and when about to send to table, drain the pieces of
chicken upon a cloth, shake some flour over them, so as to entirely
cover the pieces with a coating of it, form them into shape, drop them
into some hog's-lard made hot for the purpose, and fry them of a
yellow color. When done, drain the pieces of chicken on a sieve,
covered with paper, lay them upon a sautapan, and glaze them over
slightly; dish them up in a pyramidal form, garnish the entree round
with a border of fried eggs and crdulons of bread, placed alternately;
pour some Tomata or Poivrade sauce (Nos. 22 and 29) under the
frUM, and serve.
986. CAPILOTADE OF CHICKENS OR FOWLS, A L'ITALIENNE.
This entree is mostly served when there happens to be roast fowl
or poultry of any kind in reserve. This should be cut up into small
joints neatly trimmed, and placed in a stewpan containing some
Italian sauce (No. 12), and scollops of mushrooms and truffles; when
about to send to table, allow the capilotade to simmer gently on a slow
fire until the pieces of chicken have become thoroughly impregnated
with the sauce: about ten minutes will suffice for this purpose. The
entrie may then be dished up, and garnished round with croutons of
bread; pour the sauce over it, and serve.
987. CHICKENS, A LA TOSCANE.
Phepare these in the first instance as for a frvtot, and after the
pieces of chicken have been sufficiently steeped, drain them upon a
cloth to absorb all the moisture from the exterior, rub each piece over
separately with a paste-brush dipped in yolks of egg, and bread-crumb
them upon this; they must then be dipped in, or sprinkled over with
clarified butter, and again bread-crumbed upon this; they should next
be patted into shape with the blade of a knife, and placed in order in
a sautapau with some clarified butter. About twenty minutes before
sending to table, fry the pieces of chicken of a fine yellow color, and
when done, drain them upon a napkin, glaze them over lightly, and
dish them up; garnish with macaroni dressed with cheese, pour some
essence of fowl *ader them, and serve.
Note.—This dish may also be served without the macaroni, and is
then called a la Viennoise • in which case some quenelles of potatoes
may be added.
MARINADE OF CHICKENS, FRIED IN BATTER.
Roast one or more chickens or fowls; when done, cut them into
neatly-trimmed joints, and put these to steep for several hoars in the
following preparation:—Cut into thin slices a large onion, carrot,
celery, parsley-root, a few green onions, some parsley, and a clove
of garlic, and put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, a
bay-leaf, sprig of thyme, blade of mace, and four cloves; fry all these
of a light-brown color, moisten with half a pint of Sherry, and an


334 - ENTREES OF FOWLS.
equal proportion of French vinegar, add a very little salt, and a pinch
of mignionette pepper, and allow the whole to simmer gently until the
vegetables are thoroughly done; the marinade must then be strained
through a tammy with considerable pressure, in order to extract the
flavor of all the ingredients. When about to send to table, drain
the pieces of chicken in a napkin, and afterward dip them into some
light batter, fry them in hog's-lard of a light color, made hot for the
purpose, dish them up on a napkin with fried parsley, and serve with
some Italian, Piquante, Poiorade, Provengale, or Tomata sauce; or
■ome essence of anchovies (No. 176), of truffles (No. 168), of shalots
(No. 167), or of fine-herbs (No. 170), in a boat separately.
ENTREES OF FILLETS OF FOWLS,
COMPRISING
SvprSme of Fillets of Fowls, d I'Ecarlate. Fillets of Fowls, d I'lndilnne.
„ „ d la Touloutt, „ d la Marichale.
„ „ with Truffles, Ac. „ a la Valenfay.
„ „ « la Pariiiinne. „ u lit SoyaU.
„ „ with Cucumbers, „ d la Financiirc, Ac.
d la BMt-vue. „ a la d' Uxellei.
„ „ d la Ptriacrd.
It should be observed that the whole of the following entrees are
expensive; with good management, however, much of the cost may be
reduced, by subsequently using the remains of the fowls here required
in the preparation of a variety of other dishes; such as those com-
prised in the last section of entries of poultry, and also for making
galantines, ballotines, cutlets, croquettes, pies, &c
989. SUPREME OF FLLETS OF FOWLS, A L'ECARLATE.
Take out the fillets of three or four young fowls, in the following
manner:—First, slit the skin on the centre of the breast in a straight
line, so that, by folding it down on both sides, the fillets will be left
bare. Next, draw the point of a knife along the edge of the breast-
bone, cut through the centre of the merry-thought, aud then remove
• the fillets by dividing them from the breast and ribs, carefully running
the point of a knife close to the bones, while the fillet is held up with
the fingers of the left hand, so as to prevent the knife from injuring
it. The fillets being thus removed entire, divide the minion fillets
from the large ones, and after the sinew which runs along these has
been carefully extracted without tearing them, they should be trimmed
and placed in a small sautapan with some clarified butter, covered with
a round piece of paper, and placed in the larder; the larger fillets must
also be trimmed in the following manner:—Place the fillet upon the
edge of the table, with the pointed end to the right, and the smooth
side downwards; then bear moderately with the fingers of the left
hand upon the pointed end of the fillet, and at the same time slip the
edge of a sharp knife (dipped in water) into that part, and slide the
knife under the hand, closely bearing toward the skin so as not to
waste any more of the fillet than is positively necessary for the pur-


FILLETS OF FOWLS.
335
pose of removing it; it must then be trimmed neatly ronnd at the
thick end, and nearly to a point at the thin end. The fillets should
now be arranged, all in the same direction, in a sautapan with some
clarified butter; then seasoned with a little salt, covered with a circu-
lar piece of buttered paper, and placed with the others. It is neces-
sary to observe that if the large fillets incline from right to left when
placed in the santapan, the minion fillets should be curved in the
opposite direction : the latter may be decorated, or contises with truffles
or tongue; in which case they must be covered with thin layers of fat
bacon. When about to send to table, place the sautapan containing
the large fillets over a stove-fire, and as soon as they become set and
whitened on one side, turn them over immediately on the other, and
do not let them acquire any color; then, quickly pour off all the
butter, add a large spoonful of Supreme sauce (No. 38), and having
tossed the fillets in it over the fire without allowing them to boil or
simmer, dish them in a close circle with a round scollop of red tongue
(previously warmed in a little half glaze for the purpose) between
each of them; fill the centre with scollops of button-mnshrooms tossed
in a little of the sauce, place the minion fillets, in a similar row to the
others, upon the top of them; pour some Supreme sauce round the
entrie, and upon each of the fillets, without masking the pieces of
tongue, and serve.
990. SUPREME OF FILLETS OF FOWLS, A LA TOULOUSE.
Prepare the large fillets as in the foregoing case, and when the
smaller ones have been trimmed, lard them closely, and place them in
a sautapan upon thin layers of fat bacon, in a curved form. A quarter
of an hour before sending to table, finish the large fillets as in the fore-
going case, substituting Allemande for Supreme sauce, and this should
be incorporated with some reduced essence of fowls, a pat of butter, a
little cream and lemon-juice. The larded fillets must be moistened with,
a little half-glaze, placed in the oven for about six minutes, and nicely
glazed; then, dish up the large fillets in a close circle with a croutons
of bread, cut in the form of a deep crescent, fried in butter, and glazed;
fill the centre with a ragout of cock's-combs, truffles, mushrooms, small
quenelles, and cock's-kernels, tossed in some of the sauce j dress the
larded fillets round the top of the others, pour some of the sauce round •
the entree, and serve.
991. SUPEEME OF FILLETS OF FOWLS, WITH TRUFFLES.
Prepare th is in the same way as in No. 989 j decorate the small
fillets with truffles, finish and dish up the entrie as therein directed,
and fill the centre with scollops of truffles tossed in a small stewpan
with a little glaze, and a very small piece of fresh butter; pour'
the Supreme sauce (No. 38) round the base, and on the fillets, and
serve.
992. SUPREME OF FILLETS OF FOWLS, A LA PARISIENNE.
Trim eight or ten large fillets of fowls, and decorate them with
black truffles, in the following manner :—First, spread the bottom of
a sautapan large enough to contain the fillets, with fresh butter; then
place the fillets therein, all curved in the same direction, with the
smooth side uppermost. Next, rub each fillet over slightly with a


336 ENTREES OF FOWLS.

paste-brash, dipped in white of egg slightly beat up; the truffles, after
being first cut into thin scollops, and stamped out with tin fancy cut-
ters in various forms, should then be stuck upon this prepared surface,
according to taste, forming therewith stars, scrolls, palms, mosaics,
&c When all the fillets are decorated, run some clarified butter over
them, in sufficient quantity to cover their surface; place a cover-
ing of buttered paper upon them, and set the sautapan aside in the
larder. The minion fillets must also
be decorated with red tongue, in the
same way as the others. When
about to send to table, simmer the
fillets on both sides, carefully pre-
venting them from becoming at all
colored; when done, drain them
upon a napkin, and dish them up in
a close circle, placing a fillet of red
tongue between each of the large
fillets; next place the minion fillet
in a close border on the top of the
inner edge of these, fill the centre
with a ragout a la Parisiinne (No. 203), pour some of the sauce round
the base of the entrie, without in any way masking the decoration of
the fillets, and serve.
993. SUPREME OF FILLETS OF FOWLS WITH CUCUMBERS,
A LA BELLE-VUE.
In this instance the fillets must be prepared and finished in exactly
the same way as stated in No. 989 ; but when dishing them up, instead
of the fillets of tongue, place between the fillets a scollop of cucumber,
prepared as follows:—
Cut two large well-shaped cucumbers into slanting scollops of about
a quarter of an inch in thickness; trim these neatly in an oval form,
scooping out the seeds, and after having parboiled these oval rings, or
links, in salt and water, drain them upon a napkin, and place them in
order at the bottom of a sautapan previously spread with butter; then
proceed to fill up the centre of these with some quenelle force-meat of
fowl, mixed with some chopped and parboiled parsley, to color it
green; smooth the surfaces over, place a circular piece of buttered
paper upon them, and poach them by pouring some boiling consommi
in at the side of the sautapan, so as not to disturb the rings. Let
them simmer gently by the side of a stove-fire for about ten minutes,
then be carefully drained upon a napkin, lightly glazed, and nsed as
directed above. Fill the centre of the entrie with prepared scollops
of cucumbers (No. 138), previously tossed in some of the sauce; mask
the fillets, without covering the links of cucumbers, with some Supreme
sauce, and serve.
994. SUPREME OF FILLETS OF FOWLS, A LA PERIGORD.
Prepare this according to the directions for Suprime a VEcarlate
(No. 989); the minion fillets, however, must be decorated with black
truffle. When about to send to table, dish up the fillet as usual in a
close circle round the base of a small ornamental crouslade of bread,
previously fried of a light color, and stuck in the centre of the dish


338 ENTREES OF FOWLS.
being sprinkled over with clarified butter. Then, place the fillets in
neat order in a sautapan with some clarified butter; and when about
to send to table, fry them of a light color on both sides, drain them
upon a napkin, and then dish them up closely in a circle; place the
minion fillets (which should be decorated with truffle, and simmered in
butter), in a row upon the top of the inner edge of the others; fill the
centre with scollops of truffles, previously simmered in a little glaze
and a very small piece of butter; pour some Supreme sauce (No. 38)
under the entree, aud serve.
998. FILLETS OF FOWLS, A LA ROYALE.
Trim the fillets of four fowls without removing the small fillets, then
closely lard one-half of them, and decorate the other four with black
truffle, in the same way as described for fillets A la Parsvenne (No. 992);
place these fillets in separate sautapans, the larded ones upon thin
layers of fat bacon, and moistened with some half-glaze, and the deco-
rated fillets covered with clarified butter. Just before sending to table,
put both in the oven for about five minutes; then withdraw the deco-
rated fillets, glaze the larded ones, put them back for two minutes, and
glaze them again. Dish them up, placing alternately a larded fillet
with a decorated one; fill the centre with a ragout of scollops of fat
livers and truffles tossed in a liltle Allemande sauce (No. 7); pour
some of the sauce round the entrie, and serve.
999. FILLETS OF FOWLS, A LA FINANCIERE.
Cut out the fillets of four fowls, with the pinion-bones left adhering
thereto, trim them in the usual way, and lard the whole of the fillet
closely; then place them in order in a sautapan upon thin layers of
fat bacon; moisten with some strong consomme, and set them to braize
in the oven, or else covered with a lid containing some live embers of
charcoal: about ten minutes will suffice to do them; they must next
be glazed, and placed into the oven to dry the larding, and then glazed
a second time. The fillets must then be dished up, and arranged in
their natural order, that is, the right hand fillets to the right, and the
left hand to the left. Fill the centre with a rich Financidre ragout
(No. 181), pour some of the sauce round the entrie, and serve.
Note.—Fillets of fowls, larded and prepared as the foregoing, may
also be served with pureis of endive, green-peas, asparagus, a la Mace-
doine; with stewed peas, scollops of cucumbers, asparagus-peas, &c
1000. FILLETS OF FOWLS A LA D'UXELLES.
Trim the fillets of three or four fowls, removing the minion fillets,
which should be decorated with black truffles as described in No. 992,
and afterwards placed in a sautapan with clarified butter. Cover the
larger fillets with a coating of D'Uxelles sauce (No. 16), over which,
when it has become firmly set upon the fillets by cooling, bread-
crumb them twice; once after dipping them in beaten eggs, and the
second time after they have been sprinkled over with clarified butter.
They must then be gently patted into shape with the blade of a knife,
and placed in a sautapan with some clarified butter. When about to
send to table, fry the fillets on both sides, of a bright-yellow color;


QUENELLES OF FOWL. 339
then drain them upon a napkin, glaze lightly and dish them up in a
close circle: place the decorated minion fillets in a row on the top of
the inner edge of these, fill the centre with scollops of button-mush-
rooms tossed in a little Allemande sauce (No. 7), pour*some half-glaze
under the fillets, and serve.
ENTREES OF QUENELLE-FORCE-MEAT OF FOWL,
\
COMPRISING
Qumelltf of Fowl, d I'Ktmux. Bovdini of Fowls d la d'Arlolr.
"d la Tonlome. "d la Cardinal.
"d la Marichalc. "d la Soubite.
Boudine of Fowls, a la Richelieu. "d la Heine.
"d la Perigueux. Bouchtct d la Pompadour.
"dla Seflon.
1001. QUENELLES OF FOWL, A LESSENCE.
Prepare some quenelle force-meat (No. 242), with the fillets of two
fowls, in which should be incorporated a spoonful of reduced Alle-
mande sauce (No. 1); this should then be moulded into quenelles in
the following manner: First, take up as much of the force-meat as will
fill a silver table-spoon, then smooth it over the top in a dome-like
form with the blade of a knife dipped in hot water; next with another
spoon of the same size and shape which must be dipped in hot water,
scoop the quenelle out of the spoon, and lay it upon the under side at
the bottom of a deep sautapan, previously spread with butter for the
purpose; repeat this until the whole of the force-meat that is meant
for the enlrie be used up, and then place a covering of buttered paper
over them, and pour sufficient boiling consommi in at the side of the
sautapan to float the quenelles. About ten minutes' gentle simmering
by the side of the stove-fire will suffice to do them; they must then
be drained with care upon a napkin, dished up in a close circle; pour
some bright consommi of fowl (boiled down to nearly the consistency
of half-glaze) under them, and send to table.
Note.—Quenelles of fowl prepared in this manner, may also be served
with the following sauces : Supreme, Italienne, Perigueux, Allemande,
Bechamel, Richelieu,
1002. QUENELLES OF FOWL, A LA TOULOUSE.
For this entrie it will be necessary when about to mould the
quenelles, first to shake some flour over a slab or table, and then to
take up six spoonfuls of the force-meat and drop them separately
upon the slab; next shake a little flour over them, and proceed to .
roll each into the form of an egg ; these must then be placed in rows
in a deep sautapan (previously spread with butter), about two
inches distant from each other, and flattened to a quarter of an inch
in thickness, by gently pressing them down with the fingers; after
which pour in some boiling broth, and set them by the side of the
fire to poach. When the quenelles are done, drain them upon a nap-
kin, trim them neatly, still retaining their oval shape, and place one
half of them in a sautapan with a little white consomme; bread-crumb


340
QUENELLES OF FOWL.
the remainder, first masking them over with a coating of Allemande
sauce. When about to send to table fry the bread-crumbed quenelles
of a light color, in hog's-lard heated for the purpose, and having
warmed the plain ones, and drained them upon a napkin, dish up the
entree, alternately placing one of each sort of quenelle; till the centre
with a white Toulouse ragout (No. 187), pour some of the sauce round
the base and serve.
1003. QUENELLES OF FOWL, A LA MAHECHALE.
Prepare the quenelles as in the foregoing case; shape them in the
form of cutlets, oval, oblong, circular, or like a heart; taking care
not to make them more than a quarter of an inch thick. When tbey
have been poached and trimmed, place them npon a dish, and mask
them over with some Allemande sauce; when this has become firmly
set upon the quenelles by cooling, bread-crumb them over twice in the
usual way: once with egg, and the second time, after they have been
sprinkled over, with clarified butter. They must then be broiled
upon oiled paper, and when done of a light color on the one side,
great care must be used in turning them over, to be equally broiled
on the other. When done, dish them np in a close circle, fill the
centre, either with scollops of truffles, mushrooms, fat livers, cock's-
combs, and kernels; with Allemande or Supreme sauce, or with essence
of fowl, and serve.
1004. BOUDINS OF FOWL, A LA RICHELIEU.
Prepare some quenelle force-meat with the fillets of two fowls, in
the usual manner (No. 242), form this into a dozen flat oblong que-
nelles, and poach them delicately in broth, as directed in the foregoing
cases; when this is done, drain them upon a napkin, and after making
an opening on the surface to the extent of two inches long, by one
inch wide, and then carefully scooping out the inside of the quenelles
to the depth of two-thirds of their thickness, fill this cavity with the
following preparation: cut a large onion into very small dice, aud fry
these in a small stewpan with a little butter, of a light-yellow color;
then add an equal proportion of truffles, also cut into very small dice
and some mushrooms in the same manner; next, add a spoonful of
Allemande sauce (No. 7), a little nutmeg, raignionette pepper, and a
small piece of glaze; stir the whole over the fire for about five minutes, and
then use it as directed above. When the preparation with which the,
quenelles have been filled np has cooled, spread a layer of force-meat
over the entire service of each; then place them in a sautapan pre-
YiouBly spread with butter to receive them, rub them over carefully
with a psste-brush dipped in white of egg and decorate them with
truffle and tongue. When about to send to tnble, poach the boudins
by pouring some boiling consomme on them, taking care not to disturb
the decoration; when they have been allowed to simmer gently by
the side of a stove-fire for about ten minutes, drain them upon a
napkin, glaze them lightly, and dish them up in 87 close circle; pour
some Richelieu ragout (No. 207) under them and serve.
Note.—This entrte may also be served with a purie of mushrooms,
truffles, or with scollops of fat livers.


BOUDINS OF FOWL. 341
1005. BOUDINS OF FOWL, A LA PERIGUEUX.
These must be prepared, in the first instance, in the same manner
as the foregoing: after the centre has been scooped out, the cavity of
these should be filled up with some puree of truffles (No. 121); then,
the boudins must be closed in with a thin coating of the force-meat,
and after being rubbed over with a paste-brush, and dipped in some
beaten white of egg, should be sprinkled over with black truffles,
chopped very fine, and must be poached and afterward dished up in
a close circle. Four some Perigueux sauce (No. 23) under them,
and serve.
1006. BOUDINS OF FOWL, A LA SEFTON.
Prepare the force-meat in the usual way, and before using it,
incorporate therewith about two table-spoonfuls of puree of mush-
rooms (No. 122); then divide the force-meat into three equal parte,
roll these, with the aid of a little flour shaken over them, into square
oblong shapes.* measuring about six inches in length; place these in
a deep sautapan, previously spread with butter to receive them, and
poach them as directed in former cases; when done, drain them upon
a napkin, dish them up in the form of an angle, or in a row, side by
side; place two minion fillets that have beeu larded and glazed across
the ends of each, garnish with a white Financiere ragout (No. 188),
and serve.
1007. BOUDINS OF FOWL, A LA D'ARTOIS.
Prepare about twelve small oval or oblong flat quenelles of force-
meat of fowls, and when they have been poached, drained, trimmed,
and then scooped out as directed for the quenelles a la Marechale, fill
the cavities with a salpicort\ composed of truffles, mushrooms, and red
tongue 'mixed with a little reduced Allemande sauce; spread a thin
layer of force-meat over the surface, bread-crumb the boudins care-
fully, and place them with this side uppermost in a sautapan with
clarified butter. When about to send to table, fry the boudins of a
light color, on both sides, drain them upon a sheet of paper and glaze
them lightly, and then dish them up in a close circle; fill the centre
with a Financiere ragout (No. 188) in some Madeira sauce (No. 8),
pour some of the sauce rouud the base, and serve.
1008. BOUDINS OF FOWL, A LA SOUBISE.
First, prepare some force-meat with the fillets of two fowls (No.
242), and in finishing this, instead of sance, add two table-spoonfuls
at purie of onions (No. 119); form this force-meat into about sixteen
small oblong quenelles, by rolling them upon the table or slab with a
little flour: then cat each of these in two, lengthwise, spread out the
* There ere fancy copper or tin moulds made for this purpose, and may be had at all
brazier*' shops. Previously to filling the moulds with the force-meut, they must be care-
fully and thinly spread with butter. These must be merely steamed in water, in the
same manner as a pudding, and, when done, turned out of the moulds, and finished as
directed for the others.
f Snlpicon means, literally, anything savory, sueh ^s truffles, tongue, mushrooms,
sweetbreads poultry, or game, that has undergone the process of mincing, preparatory
to being mixed with some Ilfahamel, AUtmande, or EipugnnU sauce; to be afterward
■sad for such purposes as the above, and also for garnishing patties with.


342 BOUCHEES OF FOWL.
sides of these halves a little with the point of a small knife, and then
insert between them a small portion of salpicon, prepared as for the
boudins a la d'Artois; this, after being spread out to the thickness of
rather less than a quarter of an inch, and allowed to become cold and
firm, must then be cut up into small strips, or bands, for the purpose of
being inserted in between two halves of the quenelles or boudin; the
sides of these should then be securely closed in, and patted smooth all
over with the blade of a knife dipped in flour, and are then to be
placed in a sautapan, previously spread with butter to receive them.
Pour some boiling broth to the boudins, and poach them in the nsual
way; then drain, trim, and bread-crumb them with beaten egg, and
place them carefully in a sautapan with some clarified butter. When
about to send to table, fry the boudins of a light color, glaze them
lightly, dish them up in a close circle, fill the centre with some Soubise
sauce (No. 119), pour some half-glaze or essence of fowls, under the
entree, and serve.
1009. BOUDINS OF FOWL, A LA REINE.
Roast two fowls, remove all the brown skin, cut off all the meat
from the bones, and use the latter to make some essence with. Chop
the meat fine, and then pound it in a mortar with a pat of butter and
a lurge spoonful of reduced Bechamel sauce; season with a little pepper
and salt and grated nutmeg, and rub the whole through a very fine
wire-sieve, or tammy cloth; then put this purie into a small stewpan,
and after adding thereto half a gill of scalded double-cream, and a piece
of glaze as big as a walnut, stir it over the fire until the whole is
mixed, and spread this preparation on a dish, in a square form about
two inches in thickness, and set it in the larder to become cold.
Then, cut the square into two oblong pieces, aud divide these again,
each into about eight small oblong slices, about three inches ^ong by
two in width, and a quarter of an inch thick. Spread each of these
over with a thin coating of some very delicate force-meat of fowl;
flour them over, then dip them separately in some beaten egg, bread-
crumb them, and set them on a dish in the larder until dinner-time.
The boudins must then be placed upon the wire drainer of a frying
pan, and immersed in some clean hog's-lard made quite hot for the
purpose, and fried of a light-fawn color; they should be drained, and
dished up in a close circle, with some Bechamel or Supreme sauce
poured under them, and then sent to table.
1010. BOUCHEES OF FOWL, A LA POMPADOUB
Prepare some very delicate force-meat with the fillets of two
fowls; when finished, incorporate therewith two spoonfuls of purie of
mushrooms, made with double cream (No. 122). Form this into
about sixteen small oval, or circular flat quenelles, or boudins, about a
third of an inch in thickness; place them in a buttered sautapan, and
poach them delicately: that is, let them be only two parts done; drain
them upon a napkin, then place them on a dish, covered over with a
sheet of buttered paper, and put them in the larder until dinner-time.
The bouchees should then be dipped in some very light batter, mixed
with whipped cream, instead of water, and fried in plenty of clean
hog's-lard, made hot for the purpose; they must then be dished up in
circular order, and the centre filled either with stewed peas, asparagus-


ENTREES OF FOWLS. 343
peas, or purie, a Macedoine of summer vegetables, Poivrade, or
Tomata sauce. If garnished with dressed vegetables, some essence of
fowl should be poured round the base of the entrie.
ENTREES OF FOWLS OR CHICKENS,
COMPRISIttO
Galantinet of Legs of Fowl, d la Financilre. Minced Fowl, with Rice.
„ „ d la Jardiniire. Scollops of ditto, an gratiu.
Minced and Grilled Fowl. Kromeaky» of Fowl, d la Ruiee.
Minced Chicken, and Poached Eggs. Croquettes of Fowl, with Mushrooms, Ac.
Minced Fowl, with Macaroni. Mince, or Salpicon, for Patties.
1011. GALANTINES OF LEGS OF FOWLS, A LA FINANCIERE.
The legs must be carved from the carcasses of the fowls with the
whole of the skin from the back left adhering thereto; then bone
these entirely without dividing the leg, or, as it is commonly called,
the drum-stick part. The feet should be cut with part of the leg-bones
left on, scalded, and the outer skin carefully removed, without tearing
them; trim these neatly, leaving only part of the claws in, and stick
them into the small aperture of the legs, whence the drum-stick bones
have been removed: when properly done, this gives them a neat and
plump appearance. They must then be spread out upon the table,
seasoned with pepper and salt, and about a dessert-spoonful of force-
meat, in which has been mixed some fine-herbs, placed in the centre;
a large needle and some coarse thread should be used to draw the
skinny part of the legs up into a purse, and must then be fastened to
secure them in shape. The galantines must next be larded closely on
the plump part of the thigh, in the same manner as a sweethread, and
then placed in a deep sautapan, the bottom of which should be strewn
with sliced carrot, onion and celery, and a garnished faggot of parsley,
and covered with some thin layers of fat bacon, upon which the
galantines are to be placed. Moisten with sufficient consomme or broth
to reach nearly up to the larding : place a buttered paper on the top,
cover with the lid containing some live embers of charcoal, and set
them to braize gently for about half an hour over a moderate stove-
fire, or else in the oven, frequently basting them with their own liquor.
When they are done, remove the lid and the paper, and put them in
the oven for a couple of minutes to dry the larding; then glaze them
nicely, drain them upon a napkin, and dish them up in a close circle
similarly to cutlets; fill the centre with a Financiere ragout (No. 188),
pour some of the sauce round the entree, and serve.
Note.—Galantines dressed in this manner may also be served with
endive, sorrel, puree of greeu-peas or asparagus, stewed peas, or a la
Macedoine.
1012. GALANTINES OF LEGS OF FOWLS, A LA JARDINIERE.
Iw this case, the legs of the fowls should be entirely laid open with
the knife, and all the bones removed; they must then be spread out
upon the table, seasoned with pepper and salt, and a table-spoonful of
force-meat, mixed with fine-herbs, placed in the centre of each; then


344 ENTREES OF FOWLS.
sew them up in an oblong or oval form, and place them in a stewpan
on a bed of sliced carrot, onion, and celery, covered with thin layers of
fat bacon, and braized as directed in the foregoing case. When the
galantines are done, put them in press between two dishes until they
become cold; they shonld then be trimmed and placed in a sautapan
with a little consomme' covered with a buttered paper. When about to
send to table, put the galantines in the oven to simmer gently for a
quarter of an hour; then glaze and dish them up in a close circle,
with a braized lettuce, nicely trimmed (No. 164), placed in between
each ; fill the centre with a Jardiniire (No. 144), pour some half-glaze
or Espagnole sauce round the base of the entree, and serve.
1013. MINCED AND GRILLED FOWL.
Cut off the legs of a roast fowl, trim and score them over on both
sides, and season them with pepper and salt; then cut the meat off the
breast, &c, into fine shreds, and put this into a small stewpan, with
a little Bechamel sauce (No. 5). When about to send to table, broil
the legs of a fowl over a clear fire, glaze them, and having previously
warmed the mince, pour it out into the centre of the dish, place the
legs upon it, and serve.
1014. ANOTHER METHOD.
Trim the legs and cut up the mince as in the foregoing case. Next,
put an ounce of fresh butter into a small stewpan over the fire to melt,
incorporate therewith a spoonful of flour, and etir these together for
two minutes; then add about a gill of broth, and the same proportion
of cream; season with pepper and salt, grated nutmeg, and a small
piece of glaze: stir this sauce on the stove, keep it boiling for ten
minutes, and then add it to the minced chicken. In all other respects,
serve this entrie in the same way as the foregoing.
1015. MINCED CHICKEN, AND POACHED EGGS.
Cut up all the white meat of a roast or boiled fowl into mince or
shreds, and put these into a small stewpan with a gravy-spoonful of
good Bechamel sauce; when about to send to table, warm the mince,
dish it up, and place the poached eggs round it with a scollop of glazed
tongue or of ham, and a fried crouton of bread in between each egg;
pour a little white sauce round the entree, and serve.
1016. MINCED CHICKEN, WITH MACARONI.
In this case prepare the chicken or fowl in small thin scollops, and
add to them some Bechamel: when about to dish them up, first place
some macaroni (dressed with grated Parmesan cheese and a spoonful
of Bechamel sauce) round the bottom of the dish in the form of a bor-
der, and put the mince in the centre piled up like a cone; pour a little
white sauce round the entrie, and serve.
1017. MINCED. CHICKEN, WITH RICE.
Prepare the mince as directed in the foregoing instance. Put six
ounces of Carolina rice, after it has been well washed, into a stewpan
with a pat of butter and a pint of broth, a little salt and migniopette
pepper: set the lid on and place it over a slow fire to boil very gently
until the grains are become quite soft, and all the moisture is ab-
sorbed; then add the yolks of two eggs and a spoonful of sauce;


KROMESKYS OF FOWL. 345
work the rice with a wooden spoon, then fill a circular border mould
(previously buttered inside) with it, and turn it out upon its dish; fill
the centre of this with the mince, and serve.
1018. MINCE, OR SCOLLOPS, OF FOWL AU GRATIN
Cut the meat off the breast and other white parts of a roast ot
boiled fowl, either into shreds or scollops; put these into a small
stewpan with some Allemande sauce (No. 12), about a table-spoonful
of grated Parmesan cheese, a little nutmeg, pepper, and salt, a small
piece of glaze, and half a gill of cream; toss the whole together over
the fire until well mixed, and then place the scollops in the dish, piled
up in a dome; cover this entirely with a coating of fried bread-crumbs
mixed with grated Parmesan cheese, in the proportion of two-thirds
of the former with one-third of the latter; sprinkle a very little clari-
fied butter over the surface, place round the entree a border of neatly
cut fancy crdutons of bread, of fleurons, of croquettes of rice, or of
potatoes (previously fried), and then put . it into the oven for about
ten minutes, taking care that it does not get burnt. Next pour some
Bechamel sauce round the base of the entree, and servo.
1019. KROMESKYS, A LA RUSSE
Cut the fillets of a roast fowl into very small neat dice, and put
them on a plate with half their quantity of mushrooms and truffles,
also cut into small dice. Stir the Bechamel or Allemande sauce over
the fire until stiffly reduced, and then throw in the minced chicken,
&c, mix the whole well together, to spread it out upon a dish about
an inch thick, and put it to cool in the larder. Next, cut this prepa-
ration into small pieces somewhat in the form of a common cork, and
place them on an earthen dish. A calf's udder, previously braized for
the 'purpose, must be cut, when cold, into very thin layers, just large
enough to-wrap one of the Kromeskys round with; they must then be
dipped in some light batter, and fried crisp in plenty of hog's-lard
made hot for the purpose. Dish them up with fried parsley in the
centre and round the base, and serve them the moment they are
done.
1020. CROQUETTES OF FOWL AND MUSHROOMS.
The mince for these is prepared in the same way as for Kromeskys,
and when it has become cold, must be cut up in pieces about the size
of a plover's egg, and rolled with a little bread-crumb, either in the
form of corks, pears, or very small cutlets; they must next be dipped
in beaten eggs and bread-crumbed a second time; roll them smooth,
and if they have been shaped like pears, a stalk of green parsley
should be stuck into each to imitate the stalk of pears. Just before
sending to table, fry the croquettes of a light color in hog's-lard made
quite hot for the purpose, dish them up on a napkin with fried parsley,
and serve.
1021. MINCE, OR SALPICON FOR PATTIES.
Cut the fillets of a roast fowl into small dice, then take two dozen
mushrooms, one truffle, and a small piece of red tongue, and cut these
also in a similar way; mix all these with the fowl, add enough sauce,
either Bechamel, Allemande, or Espagnole, and use this for garnish-
ing patties, or croustades.


ENTREES OF PIGEONS AND DUCKLINGS,
coupRiama
Pigeons, d la Oauthier. Fillets of Pigeons, d la Borghete.
n d la Crapaudine. „ d la Bourgnignotte.
„ d la Ducht8K. „ d VAUemande.
„ d la Sivilk. Ducklings, d la Rou&nnaiie.
„ au gratin, in a case. „ stewed with Olives.
„ d la Maintetmn. ,, with stewed Peas.
Compotn of Pigeons, with Mushrooms. Fillets of Ducklings, d la BigarratU.
„ with Peas. „ d la Macfdoine.
Fillets of Pigeons, d la Villeroi. Salmit of Fillets of Ducklings.
1022. PIGEONS, A LA GAUTHIEB.
Procure four young fat pigeons, draw, singe, and truss them with
their legs thrust inside. Next, put a half pound of fresh butter into
a small stewpan with the juice of a lemon, a little mignionette pepper,
and salt; place this over a stove-fire, and when it is melted, put the
pigeons, with a garnished faggot of parsley, in it, cover the whole with
thin layers of fat bacon and a circular piece of buttered paper, and
set them to simmer very gently on a slow fire for about twenty min-
utes, when they will be done. The pigeons must then be drained upon
a napkin, and after all the greasy moisture has been absorbed, place
them in the dish in the form of a square, with a large quenelle of fowl
(decorated with truffles) in between each pigeon; fill the centre with
a ragout of crayfish-tails (No. 196), pour some of the sauce over and
round the pigeons, and serve
1023. PIGEONS, A LA CBAPAUDINE.
After the pigeons have been cut in halves, lengthwise through the
breast, flatten each of these with a cutlet-bat, and then remove the
bones from the breasts and legs; season with pepper and salt, and
simmer them in a sautapan with some clarified butter over the fire
until they become partly set; they must then be put in press betwwen
two dishes, and when they have become cold, should be bread-crumbed
twice: first after being dipped in the beaten egg, and the second time
in clarified butter. When about to send to table, broil the pigeons
of a light color over a clear fire; then glaze them lightly, and dish
them up, pour some Poivrade sauce (No. 29), to which must be added
some chopped and parboiled shalots and parsley, and serve.
1024. PIGEONS, A LA DCCHESSE.
Remove the bones entirely from six very young pigeons; stuff
them with some quenelle force-meat of veal mixed with a spoonful of
sauce and some chopped mushrooms; sew them up neatly so as to
give them an appearance of plumpness; put them in a stewpan with
some white poele (No. 230), and braize them very gently over a slow
fire for about twenty minutes; the pigeons must next be removed on
to a dish and allowed to become partially cold; they should then be
covered all over with a thin coating of reduced Allemande sauce (No.
7), and when this is become set upon them by cooling, roll them first


PIGEONS, ETC.
347
in bread-crumbs, then dip them in beaten eirg and bread-crumo them
over again, and place them on a dish in the larder. About twenty
minutes before dinner-time, place the pigeons carefully upon the wire
lining of a frying-pan, and immerse them in plenty of clean hog's-lurd,
made quite hot for the purpose; as soon as they have acquired a light-
brown color, remove them from the frying-pan on to a napkin to
absorb any grease. Then pile up some Macedoine of vegetables (No.
143) in the centre of the dish, place the pifreons round this in circular
order, with the breasts resting on the bottom of the dish; put a
decorated fillet of chicken in betwen each pigeon, surmount the
entree with a group of nicely-turned small vegetables, pour some
Allemande or Bechamel sauce round the base of the entree, and serve.
1025. PIGEONS, A LA SEVILLE.
These are prepared, in the first instance, in the same way as the
foregoing, excepting that they must be braized in some wine mirepoix
(No. 236), and they should be also covered with thin layers of fat
bacon, and only moistened half their depth; braize them gently for
about twenty minutes, frequently basting them with their-own liquor.
"When the pigeons are done, drain them upon a napkin, remove the
strings, and dish them up with their backs resting up against a small
croustade of fried bread, previously made fast on the bottom of the
dish; garnish with a Spanish ragout, place a large crayfish between
each pigeon, and a decorated minion fillet of fowl upon their breasts,
surmount the whole with a small larded sweetbread, and serve. The
ragout above alluded to consists of small truffles, carrots, pieces of ham,
mushrooms, and a few boiled garbangas, or yellow peas; these must be
first slightly fried in a little oil, and a spoouful of Tomata sauce, a
glass of Malaga or Madeira, with a pinch of the powder of the sweet
red Pimento, and a piece of glaze added; simmer the whole together
over a slow fire until the carrots are done; then skim off all the
grease, add'a small ladleful of finished Espagnole sauce (No. 3), and
two dozen cloves of garlic, previously boiled in water; the ragout must
be allowed to boil gently by the side of the stove for five minutes
longer; then, after it has been skimmed, add the juice of half a lemon
and use' it as directed. 1
. 1026. PIGEONS, AU GKATIN, IN A CASE.
Remove all the bones from six young pigeons, then make some
force-meat of fat livers (No. 249), and stuff the pigeons with this;
they must next be trussed and gently braized for about a quarter of
an hour in a small quantity of moistening, after this removed on to a
dish and placed in the larder to become cold. Make a circular case of
stout paper, oil it over, and place it in the oven for a few minutes to
make it firm; line this case with some of the force-meat, and place the
pigeons in it in neat order; fill up the cavities with the remainder of
the force-meat, cover them over with very thin layers of fat bacon, and
then set the case in the oven to be baked for about half an hour. The
bacon must then be removed, and all the grease absorbed by gently
pressing a clean napkin upon it, and put on its dish. Place some
scollops of mushrooms and truffles, simmered wtth a spoonful of fine-
herbs on the top, pour som" brown Italian sauce (No. 12) over the
entree, and serve


348
ENTREES OF PIGEONS.
1027. PIGEONS, A LA MAINTENON.
Split four young pigeons lengthwise, flatten and bone them, and
then season with pepper and salt; fry them in a sautapan with a little
butter, some chopped mushrooms, parsley, and two shalots, and when
this is done, add a large spoonful of Allemande sauce, a little essence
of mushrooms, grated nutmeg, and lemon-juice; simmer the wijole
together for five minutes, and allow them partially to cool. Next,
trim off the corners from as many sheets of note-paper as there are
pieces of pigeou, and after the paper has been oiled over with a paste*
brush, place the pigeons in them—dividing the sauce equally; twist
the edges of the paper neatly and firmly, so as to secure the sauce from
ooziug out, aud broil them over a very moderate fire; dish them up in
close circular order upon a napkin, and send to table with some brown
Italian sauce (No. 12), separately in a boat.
1028. COMPOTE OF PIGEONS, WITH MUSHROOMS.
Teuss and then braize four pigeons with three quarters of a pound
of streaky bacon. Peel half a pint of button onions, and after they
have been parboiled in water, drain and fry them in a little butter over
a very slow fire without allowing them to acquire any color; they
must then be drained upon a sieve, and afterward placed in a small
stewpan with half a pottle of mushrooms, and the bacon cut up in
square dice. With the broth from the pigeons, make enough brown
sauce for the entree, and as soon as it has been sufficiently worked, add
this as well as a glass of white wine to the onions, &c, and set the
whole to boil very gently by the side of a stove-fire for about ten min-
utes: then Bkim off the grease, and place this ragout in a stewpan with
the pigeons. When about to send to table, make the campbte of
pigeons hot, dish up the pigeons with a crouton of fried bread between
each, put the pieces of bacon in the cavities formed between the
pigeons, group the mushrooms and onions in the centre, pour the sauce
over the entree, and serve. •
1029. COMPOTE OF PIGEONS, WITH PEAS.
Truss the pigeons as for boiling. Parboil three quarters of a ponnd
of streaky bacon in water for a quarter of an hour, and then cut it into
rather large dice-shaped pieces; put these into a middle-sized stew-
pan and fry them of a light color over a stove-fire, remove these on
to a plate, and then throw in the pigeons and fry them also, until they
acquire a light-brown color, and place them with the bacon. Next,
add two table-spoonfuls of flour to the fat in the stewpan, and stir
this roux over the fire until it acquires a light color, then gradually
tnix in with it a quart of broth; stir the sauce over the fire uutil it
boils, add the pigeons, bacon, a quart of green-peas, a faggot of parsley,
and gteen onions, and a little mignionette pepper, and keep the compote
gently Soiling by the side of a stove-fire for about three quarters of an
hour; then skim off all the grease, and remove the faggot, and if the
sauce is not sufficiently reduced, place the pigeons in another stewpan,
and with a colander-spoon remove the peas and bacon also; allow the
sauce to boil briskly on the fire, stirring it the while, until reduced to
(its proper consistency, and then pour it to the compote. When about
to send to table, make the compote quite hot, aud dish it up in the
same way as the foregoing.
/


FILLETS OF PIGEONS. 349
1030. ANOTHER METHOD.
Braize the pigeons together with a piece of streaky bacon (after it
has been parboiled); when these are done, prepare a quart of young
peas for stewing in the usual way, to which add about half a pint of
the liquor from the pigeons to moisten and flavor them with, and when
these have been stewed, and all their moisture boiled down to a glaze,
thicken them by adding two ounces of fresh butter kneaded with
a dessert-spoonful of flour; cut the bacon into fluted oval scollops,
dish up the pigeons, first placing some of the peas in the centre of the
dish to support them upright, then place the scollops of bacon in rows
between the pigeons, or round them, pile the peas up in the centre;
pour some bright Espagnole sauce, worked with some of the liquor
from the pigeons, round the entree, glaze the pigeons and the bacon,
aud serve.
1031. FILLETS OF PIGEON'S, A LA VILLEROI.
Fillet six pigeons, remove the thin skin from them, and also the
sinew from the under fillet, which must, however, be left adhering to
the upper; flatten them slightly with a small bat, or the handle of a
knife, dipped in water, and trim them; they must then be covered en-
tirely with a coating of B'Uxelles sauce (No. 16), and when this has
become firmly set upon the fillets by cooling, they should be bread-
crumbed twice; once, after being dipped in beaten egg, and then after
being dipped in clarified butter. Use the bones from the legs to imi-
tate the bones of cutlets; and place the fillets carefully in a santa-pan
lined with clarified butter. Just before sending to table, fry the fillets
of a light color on both sides, drain them on paper, glaze them lightly
and dish them up, in a close circle; fill the centre with a Macedoine of
vegetables, asparagus-peas, French beans, or stewed peas; pour some
bright half-glaze (made from the carcasses of the pigeons) round the
entrie, and serve.
1032. FILLETS OF PIGEONS, A LA BORGHESB.
Trim the fillets, insert the cutlet-bone in each, as in the foregoing
case, and put them on an earthen dish : next, bone the carcasses of the
pigeons, and remove the skin and sinews from the flesh, and with this
make some quenelle force-meat (No. 244). Season the fillets of
pigeons with a little pepper and salt, and neatly mask them over with,
a coating of the force-meat, thus increasing their size about one-half;
cover the bottom of a sauta-pan with some clarified butter, about one-
eighth of an inch thick, and having allowed this to become quite cold,
pat in the fillets thus prepared in circular rows, and cover them with
some clarified butter, which, however, should not be poured over them
until it has become nearly cold. About a quarter of an hour before
sending to table, place a sauta-pan containing the fillets upon a rather
brisk fire, and allow them to simmer quickly; and when they are done
on both sides, drain them upon a napkin, and glaze them brightly;
dish them up in close circular order, in the same way as cutlets, fill the
Centre with scollops of truffles, previously tossed over the fire with a
small piece of glaze, half a pat of fresh butter, and a spoonful of sauce;
poor some Madeira sauce (No. 8) round the base of the entrie, and
serve


350
ENTREES OF PIGEONS.
1033. FILLETS OF PIGEONS, A LA BOURGUIGNOTTE.
Prepare these in the same way as the foregoing, and when about to
send to table, simmer them briskly over a stove-fire, and when done,
drain, glaze, and dish them np in a close circle; fill the centre with a
ragout a la Bourguignotte (No. 195), pour some of the sauce round
the entree, and serve.
1034. FILLETS OF PIGEONS, A L'ALLEMANDE.
Prepare these in ajl respects according to the foregoing directions,
and when the fillets have briskly simmered over a sharp fire, so as to
become firmly set before they are more than half done, they must be im-
mediately removed from the sauta-pan on an earthen dish, and after
being separately dipped in some light-made batter, mixed with good
cream, should oe fried crisp in plenty of clean hog's-lard, made quite
hot for the purpose; when done, drain them upon a napkin, and dish
them up in a close circle; fill the centre with a purie of green peas,
artichokes, or asparagus, with either a Jardiniere, ot Mae&doine, stewed
peas, or dressed young Windsor beans; pour some bright half-glaze
(made from the carcasses) under the entree, and serve.
1035. DUCKLINGS, A LA ROUENNAISE.
Truss two fat ducklings for boiling, put them in a stewpan, with
about three-quarters of a pound of streaky bacon (previously parboiled),
a carrot, an onion, and a garnished faggot of parsley, and cover them
with thin layers of fat bacon and a round of buttered paper; moisten
with a quart of white broth, and then set them to braize gently for
about three-quarters of an hour. Cut a bunch of young turnips
into the shape of large olives, or half-moons, and" fry these in a
stewpan with two ounces of clarified butter, and a dessert-spoonful
of pounded sugar, over the fire, until they acquire a deep yellow
color; then strain off the butter, and put the turnips into a smaller
stewpan containing sufficient bright Espagnole sauce (No. 3) for the
entree; add a little of the liquor from the ducks to flavor them, and
set them to boil gently by the side of a stove-fire until they are done,
at the same time attending to the reduction of the sauce to its proper
consistency. When about to send to table, the ducks may either be
served whole, or cut up into small joints and neatly trimmed ; pile these
in the same manner as for a fricassee, keeping the fillets and breasts for
the top; garnish the entree with the turnips, place a border of scollops
of streaky bacon round the base, pour the sauce over the ducks, and
serve.
1036. DUCKLINGS, STEWED WITH OLIVES.
Prepare these as in the foregoing case, and when done, cut each np
into neatly-trimmed small joints, consisting of two legs, and two fillets
with the pinions left on them; then cut the breast into two pieces, and
also the back; clarify the liquor, and after it has been reduced by boil-
ing to half-glaze, warm the pieces of ducklings in it, and dish them up
as before directed; garnish the entree with a ragout of olives, place
the scollops of streaky bacon round the entrie, pour the sauce over the
ducklings, and serve.


FILLETS OF DUCKLINGS.
351
1037. DUCKLINGS, WITH STEWED PEAS.
Prepare these as directed in the foregoing cases. Stew a quart of
young peas (No. 146), and finish them with a little of the glaze made
from the liquor in which the ducklings have been braized; the mem-
bers or small joints of the ducklings mnst also be warmed in some of
the same glaze, and dished up in a pile upon some of the stewed peas;
garnish the base of the entrte with the remainder; place a row of
scollops of the streaky bacon upon these, pour some bright Espagnole
sauce (No. 3) over the entree, and serve.
1038. FILLETS OF DUCKLINGS, A LA BIGARRADE.
Draw and singe these, and pick out any remaining stubble-feathers
on the ducklings; then separate the breast from the legs and backs,
by running the knife in just above the thighs and cutting through the
upper part of the back under the wings; roast the backs and use
them for making the Bigarrade sauce with (No. 33). Place the breasts
in a deep eartheu dish, season with a little mignionette pepper, salt,
parsley, bay-leaf, thyme, three table-spoonfuls of salad oil, and tho
juice of a lemon, and allow them to steep in this for several hours;
about three-quarters of an hour before dinner, run a large iron skewer
through the breasts of the ducklings, and tie them on a spit, then place
the whole of the seasoning upon them, wrap them up with a large
sheet of oiled paper, and set them before the fire for about twenty
minutes: at the end of that time, remove the paper and seasoning,
and allow the ducklings to acquire a bright color; then remove them
from the spit, observing that they should be done with the gravy in
them. The fillets must then be taken out, slightly trimmed and scored,
and placed in a sautapan with a little half-glaze or some of the sauce,
and allowed barely to simmer over a stove-fire to warm; they should
then be dished up in a close circle with a fried crduton of bread in be-
tween each fillet; pour the Bigarrade sauce over the entree, and serve.
1039. FILLETS OF DUCKLINGS, A LA MACEDOINE.
These mnst be prepared in the same manner as the foregoing;
when the fillets are trimmed, place them in a sautapan with some half-
glaze made from the carcasses, and when about to send to table, warm
them without allowing them to boil, as that would make them tough;
dish them up in a close circle with a crduton of fried bread in between
each fillet, fill the centre with a Mac&doine of vegetables (No. 143),
pour some bright half-glaze round the base, and serve.
1040. SALMIS OF FILLETS OF DUCKLINGS.
Prepare the breasts of the ducklings, and roast them off in the
manner directed for those d la Bigarrade; cut them out, trim and score
tbem, and place them in a sautapan with a little half-glaze. Next,
roast the legs of a light-brown color, and when done, break them up,
and put them into a stewpan with four shalots, a handful of parsley, a
dozen pepper-corns, some mushroom trimmings, a bay-leaf, and sprig
of thyme; moisten with a pint of Claret or Sauterne wine, and set
this to boil very gently over a slow fire for about half an hour;
then, strain it off through a sieve, add this extract or essence to an
equal proportion of Espagnole sauce (No. 3), and work it in the
ordinary manner: when it has been cleared by gentle ebullition, and


352 ENTREES OF QUAILS.
afterward reduced by boiling to its proper consistency, strain it
through a tammy into a bain-marie. When about to seud to table,
warm the fillets carefully, dish them up as in the former cases, fill the
centre with scollops of truffles and mushrooms, pour the sauce over the
entrie, and serve.
Note.—In addition to the foregoing methods for dressing ducklinga
for entries, they may also, if intended to be served whole, be treated
according to the directions for dressing ducks for removes and flanks;
for which, see those articles.
ENTREES OF QUAILS,
COMPRISING
Quails, with stewed Peas. Cutlets of Quails, <l la Bordelaite.
„ d la l'f.riyueux. Fillets of Quails, d la Talleyrand.
„ d la Finandln. „ d la Parieiinne
.
„ d la Royale. Scollops of Quails, with Truffles.
Cutlets of Quails, d la Ifarfchale. „ with Cucumbers.
1041. QUAILS, WITH STEWED PEAS.
Truss eight quails in the same manner as chickens are trussed for
boiling, put them into a stewpan with half a pound of streaky bacon,
and a garnished faggot of parsley in the centre, cover them with thin
layers of fat bacon, moisten with some wine mirepoix (No. 236), and
braize the quails gently for about three-quarters of an hour. Prepare
about a pint of stewed peas, and finish them with a little of the mire-
poix reduced to a glaze; dish up the quails in a circle with their
breasts placed outward, fill the centre with the stewed peas, place a
scollop of streaky bacon in between each quail, pour some Espagnole
sauce, finished with some of the mirepoix, round and over the entrie,
and serve.
1042. QUAILS, A. LA PERIGUEUX.
Draw eight fine fat quails, taking care not to tear the pouch, or
skin of the throat; fill each with some truffles cut into very small
olives, and prepared as for stuffing fowls, &c, a la Perigueux (No.
660); then truss them in the same manner as fowls for boiling. Next,
cover the bottom of a stewpan with thin layers of bacon, and place
the quails thereon; put a garnished faggot of parsley, and a clove of
garlic in the centre, cover them with layers of bacon, and moisten with
some wine mirepoix (No. 236): braize them gently for about three-
quarters of an hour, and when done, dish them up with their backs
resting upright against a small ornamental crdustade of fried bread
previously fastened on the centre of the dish; place a large white
cock's-comb between each quail, and some double cocks'-combs in the
centre, with a large truffle to crown the whole; pour some Perigueux
sauce (No. 23) over the entrie, and serve.
1042. QUAILS, A LA FINANCIERE.
Remove the bones entirely from eight fat quails, reserve the livers,
and add to them half a pound of fat livers of fowl, with which preparer
some force-meat (No. 249), and stuff the quails with part of this;


354 ENTREES OF QUAILS.
1046. CUTLETS OF QUAILS, A LA BORDELAISE.
Trim the quails into cutlets in the same way as directed in the fore-
going case, season them with pepper and salt, and place them in a
sautapan with a little clarified butter; fry them over a brisk fire, and
as soon as they have acquired a light color on both sides, pour off all
the grease, add a spoonful of glaze, and toss them in it over the fire;
then dish them up in a close circle with the legs' uppermost, fill the
centre with scollops of truffles and mushrooms, pour some Bordelaiue
sauce (No. 57), over the cutlets, and serve.
1047. FILLETS OF QUAILS, A LA TALLEYRAND.
Fillet eight quails, and with the carcasses make some essence
(No. 218); trim the fillets, and stick a short bone (reserved from the
legs) into them, to imitate cutlets; then place them in a sautapan with
some clarified butter. Prepare sixteen fried croutons of bread cut in
the shape and size of the fillets, and fill these with some farce made
from the quails' livers; prepare also some scollops of fat livers, truffles
and mushrooms, and put them into a small stewpan with a little Alle-
mande sauce (No. 7); finish some Supreme sauce (No. 38) by incorpo-
rating therein the reduced essence of quails, and keep it in a small bain-
marie. Just before sending to table, simmer the fillets over a moderate
stove-fire, and when done, pour off all the grease, add a little of the
Supreme sauce, toss the fillets in it, and dish them up as follows:—
First, place eight of the crdutons (previously warmed in the oven)
at the bottom of the dish, so that the points meet in the centre; then
place a fillet upon each of these, after which repeat the crdutons, and
then place the last row of fillets; fill the centre with the scollops, pour
the Suprime sauce over the fillets, and serve.
1048. FILLETS OF QUAILS, A LA PARISIENNE.
Prepare the fillets and the crdutons as directed in the foregoing
case, and finish and dish them up in the same way; fill the ceutre of
the entree with a Parisian ragout (No. 203), pour some of the sauce
over the fillets, and serve.
1049. SCOLLOPS OF QUAILS, WITH TRUFFLES.
Fillet eight quails; trim each fillet into two scollops, and place the
whole of these into a sautapan with some clarified butter; season with
a little pepper and salt, and place a round of buttered paper over them.
Use the carcasses to make some extract or essence with, which when
done must be clarified, boiled down to glaze, and incorporated with
some finished Espagnole sauce (No. 3), and put into a small bain-
marie. Simmer the scollops over a moderate fire, and as soon as they
are done, pour off all the butter, and add half the sauce with about
half a pound of truffles cut into scollops; toss them over the stove-fire
for two minutes without allowing them to boil; pile them up in the
centre of the dish, pour the remainder of the sauce over them, garnish
the entree with a border of potato croquettes or fieurons, and serve.
1050. SCOLLOPS OF QUAILS, WITH CUCUMBERS.
These are prepared in the same manner as the foregoing. When
about to send to table, simmer them over the stove-fire, and when


ENTREES OF LARKS. 355
done, pour off the butter, add some scollops of cucumbers (No. 138),
and some of the essence made from the carcasses boiled down to a glaze;
toss them over the fire for two minutes, and pile them up in the centre
of the dish; garnish the entree round with a border of croquettes made
with the legs, and serve.
ENTREES OF LARKS,
COMPRISING
Larks, A la Minute. Larks, with Fine-herbs.
„ a la Chipolata. „ with Truffles, ti I'ltaliinne.
1051. LARKS, A LA MINUTE.
Cut off the legs, and pick out the gizzards with the point of a small
knife; then place the larks in a deep sautapan previously spread with
butter; season with pepper and salt, and fry them over a brisk fire until
they have acquired a brown color, and are nearly done; all the grease
must be poured off, and a large gravy-spoonful of JEspagnole sauce,
half a pottle of mushrooms, a small piece of glaze, a pat of butter, and
the juice of half a lemon, should then be added; toss them over the
stove-fire until the whole is well mixed, then dish up the larks with
fried crdutons of bread round them, pour the mushrooms and sauce
over the entrie, and serve.
1052. LARKS, A LA CHIPOLATA.
Prepare and fry the larks as directed in the foregoing case, and
when done, pour off the grease, and add some Chipolata ragout (No.
190); toss and simmer this over the stove-fire for five minutes, then
dish up eight of the larks upon as many small oval croutons, place
eight more croutons on these, and set a like number of larks upon
them; fill the centre with the ragout, pour the sauce over the entree,
and serve. '.'
1053. LARKS, WITH FINE-HERBS.
Trim the larks and draw the gizzards, place them in a sautapan with
a little butter, pepper and salt; fry them of a light brown color over
a brisk fire, and then add a table-spoonful of chopped mushrooms, an
equal proportion of parsley, and two shalots also chopped; simmer
these with the larks for five minutes longer, then add a gravy-spoonful
of Espagnole sauce (No. 3), a small piece of glaze, a pat of butter,
the juice of half a lemon and a little grated nutmeg; toss the whole
well together over the fire for two minutes, and dish them in a neat
pyramidal form, place some crdutons of fried bread round the entrie,
pour the sauce over it, and serve.
1054. LARKS, WITH TRUFFLES, A L'ITALIENNE.
Fry these as directed in the foregoing cases, and when they have
acquired a light-brown color, pour off the grease, add some brown
Italian sauce (No. 12), half a pottle of mushrooms, and about two
ouuces of truffles cut into scollops; toss the whole together over the


356 ENTREES OF BABBITS.
fire for five minutes, dish up the larks in double rows, with crdutons of
bread in between each row, fill the centre with the truffles and mush-
rooms, pour the sauce over the entrie, and serve.
ENTREES OF RABBITS,
COKPRIIING
Rabbit, d la Chasteur. Fillets of Rabbits, larded, d In Toulout, Ac.
„ fried in Batter, with Poivradt „ d la Marlchale, to.
sauce. Blanquette of Rabbit, d I'Ecarlate.
„ d la Bourguignonne. Polpettei of Rabbit, a I'ltaliinne.
„ d la Pirigueux.
1055. RABBIT, A LA CHASSEUR.
Cut up the rabbit into small joints, as follows:—first, take off the
hind legs even with the loins, then remove the shoulders, split the head
into halves, and divide the loins into six pieces; trim these neatly with-
out waste, and place them in a sautapan with two ounces of clarified
butter, pepper and salt. Fry them of a light-brown color over a rather
brisk fire, and add a table-spoonful of chopped fine-herbs, consisting
of mushrooms, truffle, parsley, and shalot; then put the lid on, and set
the rabbit over a slow fire for about ten minutes longer; next pour off
all the grease, add a large gravy-spoonful of Espagnole sauce, some
scollops of mushrooms and truffles, two dozen small quenelles of rabbit,
a small piece of glaze, a little nutmeg, and the juice of half a lemon;
simmer the whole together on the stove-fire for three minutes, then pile
up the pieces of rabbit in the dish, arrange the ragout over this in neat
groups, pour the sauce over the entree, place some crdulons of fried
bread round it, and serve.
1056. RABBIT FRIED IN BATTER, WITH POIVRADE SAUCE.
Cut the rabbit up as in the foregoing case, and then follow the direc-
tions given for dressing chickens hi this manner (No. 988).
1057. RABBITS, A LA BOURGUIGNONNE.
Cut the rabbits up into small joints, season with pepper and salt, and
fry them slightly over the fire, without allowing them to acquire much
color, adding half a pint of buttou-onions previonsly parboiled in water,
a very little grated nutmeg and half a pottle of mushrooms; toss these
over the fire for five minutes, then add a tumblerful of French white
wine (Chablis or Sauterne), and set this to boil sharply uutil reduced
to half the quantity; next, add two large gravy-spoonfuls of Velotdi
sauce (No. 4), simmer the whole together gently for teu minutes longer,
and finish by incorporating a leason of four yolks of eggs, the juice of
half a lemon, and a dessert-spoonful of chopped parboiled parsley;
dish up the pieces of rabbit in a pyramidal form, garnish the entree
with the onions, &c, placed in groups round the base, pour the sauce
over it, and serve.
1058. RABBITS, A LA PERIGUEUX.
Cut these up, and fry them with a little butter of a light-brown
color: pour off the grease, add some Perigueux sauce (No. 23), four


BLANQUETTES OF RABBITS. 357
ounces of truffles cut into scollops, and two dozen small quenelles of
rabbit, and simmer the whole together over the stove-fire for five
minates; dish up the entree with crdutons round it, garnish with the
ragout, pour the sauce over it, and serve.
1059. FILLETS OF RABBITS LARDED, A LA TOULOUSE.
Fillet four or six rabbits (according to the number of guests),
trim the fillets and lard two-thirds of each—beginning at the thick
end; then place them in a circular row, all curved in the same direc-
tion, in a sautapan, the bottom of which should be lined with thin
layers of fat bacon. About twenty minutes before sending to table,
pour a little strong consomme or thin half-glaze to the fillets, place a
round piece of buttered paper upon them, and set them in the oven to
simmer for ten minutes; then remove the paper, dry the larding and
glaze it, frequently basting the fillets with their own glaze; next, drain
them upon a napkin, trim and dish them up in a close circle, fill the
centre with ragout d la Toulouse (No. 187), pour some of the sauce
round the base, glaze the larding of the fillets, and serve.
Note.—Fillets of rabbits larded, may also be garnished with either a
ragout a la Pafisienne, or a la Financiere; with small quenelles,
scollops of truffles, of mushrooms, or of cucumbers; and with any kind
of dressed vegetables or puries.
1060. FILLETS OF RABBITS, A LA MARECHALE.
Fillet four rabbits, slightly flatten, and then trim the fillets,
making an incision round the interior part of them; fill this with some
cPOxelles sauce (No. 16); mask them over with a thin coating of
Allemande sauce, and when this has become firmly set by cooling,
bread-crumb them twice: once dipped in beaten egg, and then, after
being sprinkled over with clarified butter; broil the fillets over a clear
fire of moderate heat, with a sheet of oiled paper placed upon the
gridiron; when done of a light color on both sides, dish them up in a
close circle, fill the centre with scollops of the kidneys and inner
fillets, mixed with truffles and mushrooms, and tossed in a little
Allemande sauce; glaze the fillets, pour some bright Espagnole sauce,
worked with essence made from the carcasses, round the base of the
enlrie, and serve.
Note.—These fillets may also be served with some bright aspic, with
cucumbers, a puree of celery, or white Italian sauce.
1061. BLANQUETTE OF RABBITS, A L'ECARLATE.
Fillet three rabbits, cut off the hind-quarters, place them upon an
iron skewer; lay this upon a large 6heet of thickly-buttered paper,
season with pepper and salt, and strew upon it some thinly-sliced
carrot, an onion, parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; wrap the paper ronnd
them, and then tie the skewer upon a spit, and roost them before the
fire for about twenty minutes; then take them up on a dish, and
leave them in the paper till they have become cold; the meat must
next be peeled off, cut into small dice, and made up into croquettes
(No. 1020). Trim the fillets, and place them in a sautapan with a
little clarified butter, pepper and Salt, and simmer them in the oven
or over a slow fire for about ten minutes, without allowing them to


358 ENTREES OF HABB.
acquire any color; then drain them, and cot them into sloping scol-
lops; put these into a stewpan with one-third of their proportion of
scollops or red tongue and some mushrooms; add two gravy-spoonfuls
of Allemande sauce (No. 7), warm the Blanquette, gently tossing it
over the fire, and dish it up in the form of a dome; garnish it round
with the croquettes, previously fried, mask the Blanquette with a spoon-
ful of the sauce, and serve.
1062. POLPETTES OF RABBITS, A L'ITALIENNE.
Roast two rabbits, and when they are cold, cut off all the meat and
chop it up fine; put this into a stewpan with a tablespoonful of
chopped mushrooms, an equal proportion of parsley and two shalots,
also chopped, four ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, a little grated
nutmeg, and two gravy-spoonfuls of reduced Veloute sauce; stir these
together over the fire until well mixed, then add the yolks of four
eggs, and spread the preparation out in a square, about half an inch
thick, upon an earthen dish; when this has become cold, stamp the
Polpettes out with a circular tin-cutter about an inch and a half in
diameter; bread-crumb them twice in the usual manner, place them in
a sautapan with some clarified butter, and fry them* of a light color
over a brisk fire; when done, drain them upon a napkin, dish them up
in double circular rows, pour some brown Italian sauce under them,
and serve.
Note.—Besides the foregoing methods of dressing rabbits for entries,
they may also be served in almost every variety of form in which
chickens or fowls (previously cut up into small joints) are directed to
be prepared; purees, minces, balpicons, and every kind of quenelles
and boudins, may also be made with rabbits; for which consult those
articles in that part of the work treating of entrees of chickens and
fowls, and proceed in the same manner.
ENTREES OF HARE,
COMPRISING
Fillets of Hare,larded, with Poivradc Sauce. Cutlets of Hare, <2 rAncfenne.
„ d la Chaueur. Scollops of Hare, with Fine-Herbs.
„ d I'Allemande. „ d la Ptrigueuz.
Cutlets of Hare, d la Pvrtuyuaue. Civtt of Hare, with Mushrooms.
1063. FILLETS OF HARE LABDED, WITH POIVRADE SAUCE.
If the hares used for this purpose are full grown, three will suffice;
they must be filleted, and each fillet split into halves; these should be
trimmed and larded, and placed in a curve at the bottom of a sauta-
pan lined with thin layers of fat bacon. Moisten with some mirepoix
(No. 236), place a round of buttered paper upon the fillets, and set
them in the oven to simmer for twenty minutes, frequently basting
them with their own liquor; when tbey are nearly done, remove the
paper, dry the larding and glaze it; drain the fillets upon a napkin,
trim and dish them up in a close circle, pour some Poivrade, Tomata,
or Italian sauce under them, and serve.


CUTLETS OF HARE. 359
Note.-—These fillets may also be garnished in the same way as di-
rected for fillets of rabbits.
1064. FILLETS OF HARE, A LA CHASSEUR.
Prepare the fillets and place them in a santapan as directed in the
foregoing case. Use the carcasses for making some extract, or J'timet,
reserve the hind-quarters, run them on a large iron skewer, place
them on a large sheet of paper thickly buttered, season with pepper
and salt, and strew over them some thinly-sliced carrot and onion,
parsley, bay-leaf, and thyme; wrap the paper round the legs, and
fasten the skewer on the spit with string, then roast them before the
fire for about half an hour, basting them frequently. When done, pare
off all the meat, chop it very fine, and pound it in a mortar with a pat
of butter and a spoonful of Espagnole sauce; rub it through a fine
wire sieve or tammy, and put the puree into a small stewpan. When
about to send to table, braize and glaze the fillets as directed in the
foregoing case, dish them up in a close circle, fill the centre with the
puree, pour round the base of the entree, and mask the purie with
some bright Espagnole sauce worked with thefumet; glaze the lard-
ing of the fillets, and serve.
1065. FILLETS OF HARE, A l'aLLEMANDE.
Lard the fillets as in the foregoing cases, steep them in some mari-
nade (No. 234) for six hours at least; drain and put them in a sau-
tapan lined with thin layers of fat bacon, moisten with some wine
mirepoix, braize and glaze them in the usual manner, and when done,
dish them up in a close circle; fill the centre with large prunes stewed
in red wine with a small stick of cinnamon, pour some cherry sauce
a la Victoria (No. 64) round the base, place a border of quenelles of
potatoes (No. 312) round the entree, and serve.
1066. COTLETS OF HARE, A LA PORTUGUAISE.
Fillet three hares, cut each fillet across into halves, flatten these
slightly with a bat, trim them into the shape of cutlets, and scrape
some of the ribs to resemble cutlet-bones; season with a little pepper
and salt, mask them over with a thin coating of Allemande sauce, and
bread-crumb the cutlets twice; once dipped in beaten egg, and after-
ward sprinkled with clarified butter; pat them gently into shape, and
place them in a santapan with clarified butter. When about to send
to table, fry the cutlets of a light color, drain, glaze and dish them up
in a close circle, fill the centre with yams previously cut into the form
of olives, and fried in butter; pour some Portuguese sauce (No. 59)
round the base, and serve.
1067. CUTLETS OF HARE, A L'ANCIENXE.
These must be trimmed as directed in the foregoing case, and
placed in a buttered sautnpan without being bread-crumbed; then
season with pepper and salt, pour a little clarified butter over them,
and with half the hind-quarters make some puree in the usual way—
keeping this rather thick. Use the carcasses to make some furnet
with, to be worked into some Espagnole sauce for the entrie. Cut as
many crdutons of bread as there are cutlets, and of the same shape;
draw the point of a small knife round the inside of the edge of the
crdutons, and when they are fried of a light color, remove the inr.er


360 ENTREES OF HARE.
piece, fill the cavities of the crdutons with the purie, and place them
in a sautapan with a round of buttered paper upon them. Just before
dinner-time, simmer the cutlets over a gentle fire for about five minutes,
turn them over when done on the under side, and allow them to
remain two minutes longer; pour ofT the butter, add a little glaze and
a spoonful of the sauce, toss them in this, and dish them up in a close
circle; placing one of the croutons (previously warmed) in between
each cutlet; fill the centre with scollops of the kidneys and small
fillets, truffles and mushrooms tossed in a little of the sauce, pour the
sauce round the base of the entree, and serve.
1068. SCOLLOPS OF HARE, WITH FINE-HERBS.
Cut the fillets of three hares into scollops, flatten them slightly
with the handle of a knife dipped in water, trim them neatly and
place them in a sautapan with clarified butter, season with pepper and
salt, and fry them on both sides over a brisk fire for about five minutes;
pour off the butter, add some fine-herbs sauce (No. 14) and half a
pottle of mushrooms; simmer the scollops over the fire for two minutes,
pile them up in the centre of the dish, pour the sauce over them, gar-
nish round with croquettes, made with the hind-quarters, as in No
1020, and serve.
1069. SCOLLOPS OF HARE, A LA PERIGUEUX.
Prepare the scollops and fry them as directed in the foregoing
case; pour off the butter, add some Pirigueux sauce (No. 23) and
some scollops of truffles; simmer them over the stove-fire for three
minutes, dish them up in the form of a dome, garnish round with
croquettes in the form of pears, and serve.
Note.—Scollops of hares may also be finished with the following
sauces:—Poivrade, Italian, Tomata, Espagnole, and Bourguignotte;
in either case scollops of truffles, tongue, or mushrooms, may be
added.
1070. CIVET OF HARE, WITH MUSHROOMS.
Cut the hare into small joints, then parboil one pound of streaky
bacon, and cut it into square pieces the size of small walnuts; fry
these in a stewpan until they acquire a light-brown color, then take
them out on a plate, and fry the pieces of hare brown also. Next,
shake a handful of flour over them, and toss them over the fire for
three minutes; add the fried bacon, a pottle of mushrooms, an onion
stuck with four cloves, a carrot and a garnished faggot of parsley;
season with pepper and salt, moisten with a pint of port wine, and a
quart of good broth, stir the civet on the fire till it boils, and then
remove it to the side that it may clarify itself by gentle ebullition.
Fry half a pint of button onions in a small stewpan with a little but-
ter, for five minutes, and when the civet has boiled about half an hour,
throw these in; as soon as the pieces of hare become tender, remove
the scum and grease from the surface, take out the onion, carrot, and
faggot; and if there appear to be too much sauce, pour it into
another stewpan, and reduce it by boiling, stirring it with a wooden
spoon to prevent its burning, then pass it through a tammy upon the
civet. Pile up the pieces of hare in the centre of the dish, and gar-
nish round with the mushrooms, &c; pour the sauce over it, place a


ENTREES OF PHEASANTS. 361
dozen of crdulons of fried bread cut in the shape of a heart round the
the base and serve.
Leverets, when cut up in small joints, may be dressed in the same
manner as rabbits; which see.
ENTREES OF PHEASANTS,
COMPRISING
Salmit of Pheasant, d la Bourguignotte. Scollops of Pheasant d la Richelieu.
"d la Britililnne. "d la Victoria.
"d la Paymnne. "a la Palerme.
"d la Ckaemtr.
1071. SALMIS OF PHEASANT, A LA BOURGUIGNOTTE.
Roast the pheasant, let it become cold, and then cut it up as
follows :—First remove the legs, then cut off the fillets with the pinion-
bones adhering thereto, separate the breast from the back, trim them
both, cut them crosswise into halves, and place all the pieces in a stew-
pan. Next chop up the trimmings and put them into a stewpan with,
three shalots sliced up, a small bay-leaf and sprig of thyme, a few
pepper-corns, a blade of mace, and a pat of butter; fry these over a
stove-fire until they are slightly browned, moisten them with half a
pint of Claret or Burgundy, and set the whole to boil upon the stove
until reduced to half the quantity ; then add half a pint of white con-
somme, and after the fumet has simmered by the side of the stove for a
quarter of an hour, pass it through a sieve into a stewpan containing
sufficient Espagnole sauce for the entree, and work it in the usual
manner (by clarifying and reducing it), then pass it through a tammy
into a basin. Pour one-third of the sauce over the pheasant and put
the remainder into a bain-marie containing some buttou-mushrooms,
small truffles, glazed button onions, and about twenty very small que-
nelles. When about to send to table, warm the members of pheasant
without allowing them to boil; dish them up, first placing the pieces
of back, then the legs, and the fillets, surmounting the whole with the
breast, garnish the salmis with the ragout disposed in groups round
the base, place some heart-shaped croutons between these, pour the
remainder of the sauce over the entree, and serve.
1072. SALMIS OF PHEASANT, A LA BRESILIENNE.
Roast the pheasant, and afterward cut it up into small joints as in
the foregoing case. Make a little/arce with four pheasants' livers (or
these failing, fowls' livers may be substituted), and use this to fill
eight heart-shaped croutons of fried bread. Chop the trimmings, and
put them into a stewpan with two cloves of garlic, some chopped
mushrooms, a blade of mace, bay-leaf, sprig of thyme, twelve pepper-
corns, and a teaspoonful of the powder of sweet red pimento, four
ounces of lean ham, and a good table-spoonful of salad oil; fry these
over a moderate stove-fire for five minutes, then add six ripe tomatas,
and after these ingredients have been stirred over the fire until the


362 ENTREES OF PHEASANTS.
tomatas are melted, pour in half a tumblerful of Madeira; boil this
down to half its quantity, add half a pint of consomme, allow the fumet
to boil gently for twenty minutes, and pass it through the tammy with
pressure into a stewpan containing a small ladleful of Espagnole sauce;
work this in the usual manner, and pass it through the tammy into a
basin; add one-third to the pieces of pheasant, and pour the remainder
into a bain-marie containing some button-mushrooms and small truffles.
Dish up the pheasant as usual, place the croutons (warmed in the
oven and glazed), round the salmis, garnish with the ragout and sauce
and serve.
1073. SALMIS OF PHEASANTS, A LA PAYSANNE.
Roast the pheasant, just before dinner, with some crovtons of toast
placed under it, cut it up into small joints and dish them up im-
mediately; place the croutons of toast round the salmis, and pour the
following sauce over it:—Chop three shallots, some parsley and mush-
rooms, put these into a stewpan with a dessert-spoonful of oil, thyme
and bayleaf, an'd a little Cayenne pepper; fry these ingredients over
a moderate fire for five minutes, add two glasses of white wine, a small
piece of glaze and half a pint of good consommi; boil the sauce briskly
until reduced to half its original quantity, then add the juice of half a
lemon, and use it as directed.
1074. SALMIS OF PHEASANTS, A LA CHASSEUR.
Roast two yomug hen-pheasants, cut them up as usual, and put the
fillets, the pieces of the breasts and backs, into a stewpan; using the
legs to make some puree with. Prepare the salmis sauce (No. 108),
with four shalots and some parsely, chopped and parboiled, which are
to be. added together with the juice of half a lemon when sending
to table. Warm the salmis in the sauce, dish it up in a pyramidal
form, garnish it round with a dozen small croustades of fried bread,
about an inch and a half high, and the same in diameter, filled with the
purie; pour the sauce over the entree and serve.
1075. SCOLLOPS OF PHEASANTS, A LA RICHELIEU.
Fillet the two pheasants, pare away the sinews without trimming, and
simmer the fillets in a sautapan with a little butter, pepper and salt;
then cut them into scollops, and put these into a stewpan with some
Richelieu ragout (No. 207). Just before sending to table, warm the
scollops without letting them boil; dish them up, garnish round with
croquettes made with the legs, and serve.
1076. SCOLLOPS OF PHEASANTS, A LA VICTORIA.
Fillet two young pheasants, and prepare the scollops as directed
in the foregoing case. Make some puree with the legs; this must be
kept stiff, and mixed with one third of its quantity of reduced Alle-
mande, then spread out half an inch in thickness upon a dish, and when
cold, cut into small heart-shaped croquettes and bread-crumbed in the
usual manner. Use the carcasses to make some essences with, which,
after being reduced to glaze, must be mixed some Supreme sauce
(No. 38), and poured on the scollops. Ten minutes before sending
to table, fry the croquettes of pur€e, dish up the scollops in the form of
a dome, place the croquettes in a close circle round the entree, and serve.


ENTREES OF PARTRIDGES. 363
1077. SCOLLOPS OF PHEASANTS, A LA PALERME.
Prepare some scollops with the fillets of two hen-pheasants, use the
legs to make some purie with (No. 1062), finish some Poivrade sauce
(No. '29) with the essence made from the carcasses, and pour this to
the scollops, and add to these some scolloped tongue, mushrooms, and
truffles. Prepare also a dozen small crdustades of nouilles (No. 1266),
fry them of a light-yellow color, empty them, and fill them with the
purie, dish up the scollops, place the crduslades round the entree, and
serve.
Note.—Fillets of full-grown pheasants are too large to dress for
entries; but when young pheasants are used for such a purpose, the
fillets may be treated according to the various methods directed for
dressing fillets of fowls.
For the preparation of boudins and quenelles of pheasant, follow the
directions given for making boudins and quenelles of fowl.
ENTREES OF PARTRIDGES,
COMPRISING
8almit of Partridges, A la Financifre. Fillets of Partridges, d I'Ancilnne.
„ A la ProvencaU. „ d la Paririinne.
„ d la Plrigord. Scollops of Partridges, with Truffles.
„ with Mushrooms, do. „ with Fine-herbs, in
Fillets of Partridges, d la Luculltu. cases.
„ d la Prince Albert.
1078. SALMIS OF PARTRIDGES, A LA FINANCIERE.
Truss three partridges, run them upon an iron skewer, wrap them
round with a large sheet of buttered paper, fasten the skewer upon a
spit with string, and roast the partridges before a moderate fire for
about five-and-twenty minutes; then take them up, place them upon
their breast in a dish, without removing the paper, and when cold, cut
them up into small joints; first taking off the legs, next the fillets with
the pinion-bones left on, then dividing the breast and back, and trim-
ming these whole; place these joints in a stewpan, beginning with the
pieces of breasts, the fillets, and then the legs and back. JMake some
essence with the trimmings, to be used for working the sauce with;
pour a little of this to the pieces of partridges, and warm them with-
out boiling; dish them up with the inferior joints under, garnish the
salmis with a Financiere ragout (No. 188) finished with the essence,
place a dozen heart-shaped croutons of fried bread round the entree,
and serve.
1079. SALMIS OF PARTRIDGES, A LA PROVENCALE.
.Roast, cut up, and trim the partridges as in the foregoing case;
chop the trimmings, and put them into a small stewpan with three sha-
lots, a clove of garlic, bay-leaf and thyme, a few pepper-corns, and a
small blade of mace, two ounces of chopped lean of ham, and two
table-spoonfuls of salad oil; fry these ingredients over a moderate fire


364 ENTREES OF PARTRIDGES.
for five minutes, and then add half a pint of French white wine. Boil
this until reduced to half its original quantity, then add half a pint of
good consomme and a ladleful of Espagnole sauce (No. 3), stir the
sauce over the fire till it boils, then remove it to the side to clarify by
gentle ebullition; after a quarter of an hour's simmering, remove the
grease and scum, pass the same through a tammy, and boil it down
over a brisk stove-fire, then incorporate a small piece of anchovy butter
and the juice of half a lemon, and pass it again through a tammy into
a basin; pour one-third to the partridges, and put the remainder into
a bain-marie containing some scollops of truffles and mushrooms.
When about to send to table, warm the salmis without boiling, dish it
up in the usual order, mask it with the ragout and sauce, garnish round
with glazed croutons, and serve.
1080. SALMIS OF PARTRIDGES, A LA PERIGORD.
Prepare the partridges as before directed; chop the trimmings, and
use them to make the sauce as directed in No. 1078. Cut out a dozen
small heart-shaped crdutons of bread about a quarter of an inch thick,
make an' incision round the inside of the edges, fry them in butter,
empty them, and then fill the cavities with some purie of truffles (No.
121); warm the salmis with a little of the sauce, and dish it up so as
to form a well in the centre; place six of the croutons round the top
of the entrie, fill the centre with small quenelles of partridges, pour
the sauce over the salmis, garnish the base with the remainder of th<
croutons, and serve.
1081. SALMIS OF PARTRIDGES, WITH MUSHROOMS.
Boast and trim the partridges as usual, use the trimmings to make
the sauce (No. 10), then pour it to the partridges, and add some but-
ton-mushrooms or truffles; warm the salmis, dish it up in a pyramidal
form, pour the sauce over it, garnish with croutons, and serve.
1082. FILLETS OF PARTRIDGES, A LA LUCULLUS.
Fillet four young partridges, trim the large fillets and place them
in a sautapan with some clarified butter; season with,a little salt, and
place a round of buttered paper upon them; remove the sinew from the
minion fillets without tearing them, trim them neatly, and place them
in a small sautapan spread with butter; dip a soft paste-brush in
some beaten white of egg and pass it over their surface, and then deco-
rate them with black truffles. After this is completed, mask them with
clarified butter, and place some very thin layers of fat bacon upon them.
Use the carcasses to make some fumet, which must be boiled down to
half glaze, and part of it incorporated with some white puree of mush-
rooms* (No. 122); place the fillets on the stove-fire for five minutes,
then turn them over, and when done on both sides, without having ac-
quired any color, drain off the butter, add a little of the purie of mush-
rooms, toss the fillets over the fire for a minute, and dish them up with
a heart-shaped crouton of fried bread between each; sauce the fillets
with the puree, place the decorated fillets (previously simmered in the
oveu for about five minutes) across the croutons, fill the centre with
scollops of truffles, pour the sauce or puree round the base, and serve.
* Thi* purie must be of the consistency and color of Suprime sauce.


SCOLLOPS OF PARTRIDGES. 365
1083. FILLETS OF PARTRIDGES, A LA PRINCE ALBERT.
Fillet four young red-legged partridges, leaving the pinion bones
on the fillets; trim these neatly, lard them closely, and place them in
a sautapan lined with thin layers of fat bacon; moisten with some
white-wine mirepoix (No. 236), place a round of paper upon them, and
braize the fillets over a moderate fire or in the oven, and when they
are nearly done, glaze them nicely. Dish them up in a close circle,
with a decorated minion fillet between each; fill the centre with a
ragout of crayfish-tails tossed in a little partridge glaze with some
lobster coral: pour some Allemande sauce mixed with some funnel of
partridges round the entrie, and serve.
1084. FILLETS OF PARTRIDGES, A LANCIENNE.
Run an iron skewer through four young partridges, place them on
a double sheet of thickly-buttered paper, cover them with some reduced
mirepoix (No. 236), with the vegetables left in it; wrap the paper
round, fasten them on a spit, and roast them before a brisk fire for
about half an hour; then, take them up on a dish, and set them to cool
without removing the paper. Cut the fillets out of the partridges,
remove the skins, and trim them neatly without waste; place them in
a sautapan with a little half-glaze made with the carcasses. Make
some puree with the meat from the legs, and use the gravy that runs
from the birds after roasting, to moisten it with. Warm the fillets
without boiling, dish them up with a heart-shaped crouton of fried
bread between each, fill the centre with the puree, pour some salmis
sauce (No. 11) over tho entree, and serve.
1085. FILLETS OF PARTRIDGES, A LA PARISIENNE.
Trim the fillets of four young partridges, mask them over with a
coating of Allemande sauce (No. 7), dip them in beaten eggs, and
bread-crumb them; then, sprinkle them over with clarified butter, and
bread-crumb them again; pat them gently into shape, and place them
in circular order in a sautapan with some clarified butter. Conlisis
the minion fillets with black truffles, lay them in a buttered sautapan in
the form of crescents, and cover them with clarified butter. Fry the
large fillets of a bright-yellow cokor, drain them on a napkin, glaze
them slightly, and dish them up with a circular scollop of red tongue
between each; fill the centre with some Parisian ragout (No. 203),
place the minion fillets round this, pour some of the sauce round the
base, and serve.
1086. SCOLLOPS OF PARTRIDGES, WITH TRUFFLES.
Fillet the partridges, remove the sinews from the fillets, and place
them in a sautapan with some clarified butter; season with a little
salt, and simmer them in the oven or over a slow fire for five minutes;
then, turn them over, and when done on both sides, drain them upon
a napkin, and cut them into scollops; place these oq.a stewpan with
four ounces of truffles (previously simmered with a.iunall piece of
batter and glaze), and to these add some Espagnole sauce worked
with a fumet made from the carcasses. Warm the scollops without
boiling, dish them up in the form of a dome, garnish round with some
croquettes made with the legs; or, the minion fillets may be reserved,


366 ENTREES OF PARTRIDGES.
and when decorated or fried in batter, nsed to place round the
scollops.
1087. SCOLLOPS OF PARTRIDGES, IN CASES.
Fillet three young partridges, cut the fillets into small scollops,
and place them neatly in a large sautapan with two small pats of very
fresh butter, merely melted in the sautapan without being clarified;
season with mignionette-pepper, salt, and nutmeg, chopped mushrooms,
parsley, truffles, and two shalots; simmer the scollops briskly over the
stove-fire, and when done, add two large gravy-spoonfuls of Espagnole
sauce worked with some fumet or extract (made from the carcasses),
and the juice of half a lemon: toss the whole together over the fire
for a few minutes, and fill eight or ten small plaited circular, or heart-
shaped, paper cases that have been oiled and baked in the oven for
five minutes to make the paper firmer. Place the cases upon a baking-
sheet lined with clean paper, and lay a thin circular layer of fat bacon
upon each case. Twenty minutes before sending to table, put the
cases of scollops in the oven to be warmed through, then dish them
up, pour a little of the same sauce in each, and serve.
Note.—Scollops of partridges may be dressed as directed for scol-
lops of pheasants; fillets may also be served in every variety of form
directed for the treament of fillets of fowls.
1088. CUTLETS OF PARTRIDGES, A L'ALGERIENTSTE.
Split four young partridges into halves; remove the breast and
backbones, and pass the legs through the skin of the thighs, so as to
give them the form of cutlets; trim them without waste, and place
them in circular order in a sautapan with two pats of fresh butter
simply melted; season with mignionette-pepper, salt, and a little nut-
meg, and then finish them as directed for spring chickens, d la
Algerienne (No. 981).
1089. CUTLETS OF PARTRIDGES, A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL.
Prepare these as in the foregoing case, then mask them with
cPUxelles sauce (No. 16), bread-crumb them twice, in the usual man-
ner, pat them into shape, and place them in a sautapan with some
clarified butter; fry them of a bright yellow color, drain them upon a
sheet of paper, glaze them slightly, and dish up; pour some Maitre-
d'Hotel sauce (No. 43), mixed with a piece of partridge glaze under
them, and serve.
Note.—Cutlets of young partridges may also be dressed a la Pom-
padour, a la Marichale, or a la Valengay (see No. 997).
1090. PUREE OF PARTRIDGES, WITH PLOVER'S EGGS.
Roast the partridges, remove the skin, pare off all the meat, and
use the bones +i make some fumet or extract (No. 218); chop the
meat quite fine,''£>pund it in a mortar with a pat of butter and a spoonful
of sauce, and rub this through a tammy or a very fine wire sieve. Put
the purie into a stewpan, add some of the fumet (boiled down to glaze),
and, if necessary, a little Allemande or Bichamel sauce; warm the purie
with care, to prevent it from becoming rough, which would be the case


BOUDINS OF PARTRIDGES. 367
if allowed to boil; dish it up in a conical form, place some poached
eggs or plover's eggs (if in season) round the base, with a scollop of
red tongue cut in the form of a cock's-comb between each egg; pour
a little bright Espagnole sauce over the purie without masking the
eggs, and serve.
1091. MINCED PARTRIDGES, WITH POACHED EGOS.
This enlree is mostly served When there happens to be any roast
partridges or pheasants in reserve from a previous day's dinner: the
same remark may in some degree apply to salmis: although it must
be admitted that a salmis made with fresh-roasted game is preferable.
Cut the meat from the birds, either into shreds, or very small thin
scollops or dice; add a little pepper and salt, and as much salmis,
Allimande, Bechamel, or Supreme sauce, as will suffice to moisten the
mince; some truffles, mushrooms, or red tongue, cut up in the same
manner, may also be added if approved of. Warm the mince, dish it
op, garnish it round with poached eggs, or potato croquettes, and
serve.
BOUDINS, QUENELLES, AND SOUFFLES OF
PARTRIDGES,
comprising
Boudint of Partridges, d In iFOrtny. Crfpinettci of Partridges, d la d'Eilaing.
„ a la Printaniire, SuhjjUm „ d la Royale.
1092. BOUDINS OF PARTRIDGES, A LA D'ORSAY.
Prepare some quenelle force-meat with the fillets of three partridges
(No. 243). Take two ounces of French truffles, about the same pro-
portion of mushrooms, red tongue, and dressed calf's-udder; cut all
these into even-shaped and very small dice, and add them together
with a large spoonful of purie of mushrooms (No. 122) to the force-
meat; mix thoroughly, and mould this preparation into three oblong
boudins, about six inches in length, and two inches square : place these
upon similar-sized pieces of buttered paper laid on a stewpan-lid, and
slip them off into a stewpan containing some boiling broth; allow
them merely to simmer gently by the side of the stove-fire for about
twenty minutes, and when done through, drain them upon a napkin,
trim them square, mask them over with some reduced Supreme sauce,
place three larded minion fillets across each boudin, garnish the entree
with a ragout a la Parisienne (No. 203), and serve.
1093. HOUDINS OF PARTRIDGES. A LA PRINTANIERE.
Prepare some force-meat with the fillets of three partridges (No.
243), and mould this into three boudins, as directed in the foregoing
case, poach them in the same manner, and when done, mask them
with some Printaniire sauce (No. 21), mixed with some partridge
glaze: place a decorated minion fillet at each end of the boudins, and
a larded lamb's-sweethread in the centre of these; fill the well of the


368 ENTREES OF WOODCOCKS AND SNIPES.
entree with some prawns' tails tossed in a little glaze and lobster coral,
, pour some Printaniere sauce round the base, and serve.
1094. CBEPINETTES OP PARTRIDGES, A LA D'esTAING.
To the quantity of quenelle force-meat named in the foregoing article,
add half that proportion of fat bacon (previously boiled), and fonr
ounces of French truffles, both cut into small dice, also a table-
spoonful of Espagnole, and a similar quantity of partridge glaze (in a
liquid state), and season with a little cayenne; mix well together, and
then drop this preparation in table-spoonfuls upon a slab or table,
over which some flour has been previously sprinkled; mould the
cripinetles into the form of so many eggs, and wrap each of these in a
proportionate-sized piece of pig's-caul; flatten them slightly by press-
ing upon thera with the fingers, dip them in clarified butter, and fry
them over a brisk stove-fire to a light color; drain thera upon a
napkin, dish them up in a close circle, pour some half-glaze of par-
tridges mixed with a small pat of butter, and the juice of half a lemon,
and serve.
1095. SOUFFLES OF PARTRIDGES, A LA ROYALE.
Prkpare some purge of partridges (No. 1090), warm it, then add
five yolks of eggs, whisk the five whites and mix them in lightly also.
Fill a dozen small plaited fancy-paper cases with this preparation,
pass a soft paste-brush dipped in half-glaze over their surfaces, put
them on a baking-sheet, and bake them in a moderately-heated oven
for about twenty minutes; then dish them up on a napkin, and serve.
These souffles may be served in lieu of patties, after the fish.
Note.—Partridges dressed whole are also served for entries, for
which see Removes (No. 724).
ENTREES OF WOODCOCKS AND SNIPES,
COMPRISING
Woodcocks, d la Financiire. Salmis of Woodcocks, d la Minute.
„ d la Pirigord. „ d la Bowguignott*
Fillets of Woodcocks, d VAneihine. „ d la Bordelaite.
,, d la Pirigueux.
1096. WOODCOCKS, A LA FINANCIERS
Truss three woodcocks in the usual way, and lard the breasts
closely; place them in a stewpan lined at the bottom with thin layers
of fat bacon; moisten with some wine mirepoix (No. 236), place a
round of buttered paper upon thera, coTer with the lid containing
live embers of charcoal, and set them to braize gently for about three-
quarters of an hour over a moderate fire, or in the oven; frequently
basting them with their own liquor. When the birds are nearly done,
remove the lid and paper, to dry the larding for a minute or so, then
glaze the woodcocks, and drain them upon a plate ; remove the strings,
and place thera in ihe dish with their backs resting upright against a


FILLETS OF WOODCOCKS. 369
crdustade of fried bread, about four inches high, and cut in an angular
form ; place a decorated quenelle between each woodcock, a lurge truffle
on the top of the crdustade, and a border of white cocks'-couibs round
this; garnish the entree with a Finarwiere ragout (No. 188), glaze the
larding, and serve.
1097. WOODCOCKS, A la perigord.
Draw three fine fat woodcocks, reserving the livers and trail; stuff
them with the usual preparation of truffles (No. 660), and trusa
them as for roasting; then, run an iron skewer through the birds,
and place them upon a double sheet of paper thickly spread with
butter; cover them with some reduced mirepoix (No. 236), having the
vegetables left in it; wrap the paper round them and secure it with
string; tie the woodcocks both ends upon a spit, and roast them
before a rather brisk fire, for about three-quarters of an hour: they
must then be taken off the spit, and dished up in the form of an
angle; fill the centre with small quenelles, pour some Perigueux sauce
(No. 23) over the woodcocks, place a dozen croutons round the entrie,
and serve.
The above-named crdutons are thus prepared:—Fry the trail, &c,
in a small stewpan with a little butter, a table-spoonful of chopped
mushrooms, parsley, and half a shalot; season with pepper, salt and
nutmeg, and then add a table-spoonful of reduced Espagnole sauce
(No. 3): rub this through a tammy, and spread it upon twelve heart-
shaped croutons of fried bread. These croutons should be placed in
the oven for three minutes, to warm them.
1098. FILLETS OF WOODCOCKS, A L'ANCIENNE.
Skk '* Fillets of Partridges" (No. 1084). Add the trail to the legs
of the woodcocks; prepare an essence with the carcasses, and use
this tq work the sauce; in all other respects proceed in the same
manner.
1099. FILLETS OF WOODCOCKS, A LA PERIGUEUX.
Trim the fillets of three woodcocks, using the under or minion
fillets to form three more, by patting them together with the handle
of a knife; place them in a sautapan with clarified butter, and season
with pepper and salt. Prepare some farce with the trail, as in No.
1097, and spread it upon as many crdutons of fried bread as there
are fillets. Simmer the fillets over the fire without allowing them
to acquire any color; drain off the butter, then add a little of the
Perigueux sauce (No. 23), "worked with the essence made from the
carcasses, toss the fillets in this, and dish them up in a close circle
round n small crdustade of fried bread, cut in the form of a vase;
place one of the crdutons (previously warmed in the oven for three
minutes) between each fillet; fill the crdustade with some puree of
truffles (No. 121), pour the Perigueux 6auce over the fillets, and
serve.
1100. SALMIS OF WOODCOCKS, A LA MINUTE.
Roast three woodcocks just before dinner-time; cut them up into
small joints in the usual manner, reserving the trail, which must be
made into a puree and spread upon a dozen small heart-shaped crou-
23


370
ENTREES OF WILD FOWL.
Urns. Prepare the sauce as directed in No. 11, and add it to the
woodcocks. Warm the salmis without boiling, dish it up in a pyra-
midal form, and place the crdutons round the base; add a dessert-
spoonful of chopped and boiled parsley to the sauce, pour it over the
entree, and serve.
1101. SALMIS OF WOODCOCKS, A LA BOUBGUIGNOTTE.
Roast the woodcocks, cut them up, and prepare the crdutons as in
the foregoing case; make an essence with the trimmings, and add this
to a Bourguignotte ragout (No. 195). Warm the salmis with a little
of the sauce, dish it up, garnish with the ragout and sauce, place the
crdutons round the base, and serve.
1102. SALMIS OF SNIPES, A LA BOBDELAISE.
Roast six fat snipes, split them into halves, and prepare a dozen
crdutons with the trail, as directed in No. 1097; dish up the snipes in
double circular rows, first placing a row of crdutons, then six pieces
of snipes upon these, and again the crdutons, closing with the remain-
der of the snipes; fill the centre with a ragout of button-mushrooms,
truffles, and small quenelles, pour some Bordelaise sauce, (No. 57)
over the entree, and serve.
ENTREES OP WILD FOWL.
Salmit of Wild Duck. Fillets of Widgeon, d la ProventaU.
"Widgeon, or Teal. Widgeons, d I Amiricaint.
Fillets of Widgeon, d la Bigarradt. Fillets of Teal, d VAnyluite.
1103. SALMIS OF WILD DUCK.
Roast a wild duck before a brisk fire, for about five-and-twentj
minutes, so that it may retain its gravy; place it on its breast in a
dish to get cool; then, cnt it up into small joints—comprising two
fillets, two legs with the breast and back, each cut into two pieces—
and place the whole in a stewpan. Put the trimmings into a stew-
pan with half a pint of red wine, four shalots, a sprig of thyme, and a
bay-leaf; the rind of an orange, free from pith, the pulp of a lemon,
and a little cayenne; boil these down to half their original quantity;
then add a small ladleful of worked Espagnole sauce (No. 3), allow
the sauce to boil, skim it, and pass it through a tammy on to the
pieces of wild duck. When about to send to the table, warm the
salmis without boiling, dish it up, pour the sauce over it, garnish the
entree with eight heart-shaped crdutons of fried bread, nicely glazed,
and serve.
1104. SALMIS OF WIDGEON, OB TEAL.
Truss three of these for roasting, place them in an earthen dish,
and strew about them thinly-sliced carrot and onion, parsley, thyme,
and bay-leaf; season with mignionette-pepper, a little salt, the juice of
a lemon, and a gill of salad oil, and allow them to steep in this marinade


FILLETS OF WILD FOWL. 371
for twelve hours (time permitting), frequently turning them over,
that they may become thoroughly impregnated with its flavor.
When about to dress the widgeons, run them upon an iron skewer,
placing the vegetables, &c, on their breasts; wrap them round with
two sheets of oiled paper, fastened on with string; tie them on the spit
at both ends, and roast them before a brisk fire for a space of time
proportionate to their sire, in comparison to wild ducks, observing
that they must be roasted, with the gravy in them; allow them to
cool, cut tiiem in the ordinary way for salmis, use the trimmings and
the gravy that has run from.the wild fowl into the dish, to make the
sauce with, which is to be prepared as directed in No. 28. Pour the
sauce, when finished, on to the pieces of wild fowl, adding some
button-mushrooms; warm the salmis without boiling, dish it up in a
pyramidal form, garnish with crdutons, pour the sauce over it, aud
serve.
1105. FILLETS OF WILD DUCKS, WIDGEON, OS TEAL, A LA
'BIGARRADE.
Prepare these, in the first instance, as directed in the foregoing
article; spit them, and cover the breasts with their seasoning, wrap
them up securely with paper, and roast them before a brisk fire; when
Dearly done, remove the paper, &c, and set them closer-to the fire,
that they may acquire a light-brown color. Take them up, and fillet
them, leaving the pinion-bones on; score, trim, and dish them up at
once, placing a crduton between each fillet; add the gravy that runs
from the wild fowl to some Bigarrade sauce (No. 33), pour this over
the fillets, and serve.
1106. FILLETS OF WILD FOWL, A LA PROVENCALE.
Prepare the fillets as above, dish them up in the same manner, pour
■ome Provengale sauce (No. 25), to which has been added a glass of
Madeira, over the entrie, and serve.
1107. WIDGEON, A L'AMERICAINE.
Roast these quite plain, basting them frequently with fresh butter
while roasting: when done, cut them up into small joints, and place
these in a stewpan with half a pound of red-currant jelly, the juice of
a lemon, and two glasses of Port wine; allow the whole to simmer
gently over a moderate stove-fire for ten minutes; dish up the entrie
with fried crdutons round it, pour the sauce over the widgeon, and
•erve.
1108. FILLETS OF TEAL, A L'ANGLAISE.
Roast the teal quite plain; when done, cut the fillets out, score,
them across, and dish them up with crdutons of fried bread; pour some
essence of orange (No. 171) over the fillets, and serve.


372
ENTREES OF ORTOLANS AND WHEATEARS,
COMPRISES
Ortolans, in Cases, with Madeira sauce. Wheatears, in Cases, with Fine-herbs,
in Cr6uitadc», d la Provenqale.
1109. ORTOLANS IN CASKS, WITH MADEIRA SAUCE.
These very delicious birds are a great rarity in England; they are
in season in September, and are to be had only of first-rate poulterers,
who mostly import them from Belgium.
Cut four fat livers of fowls, and an equal quantity of fat bacon,
into square pieces; first fry the bacon in a sautapan over a brisk fire,
then add the livers, with a tablespoonful of fine-herbs, and season with
pepper, salt, and a little nutmeg; when all this is fried brown, ■
add to it half its quantity of panada (No. 239), and pound the whole
together in a mortar until well mixed; add three yolks of eggs, then
mix the above well together by pounding, and take the farce up into
a basin. Next, cut eight small oval cronstades of bread, just large
enough to hold an ortolan each, making a slight incision round the
inside of the edge of each crbustade, and fry them in butter, of a light
color; remove the inside crumb, line them with a thin coating of the
farce, place an ortolan in each, then put them on a baking-sheet with
a little oil, and bake them in the oven. When they are done, glaze
and dish them up, pour over them some Madeira sauce (No. 8) mixed
with a small pat of anchovy-butter, and the juice of half a tenon, then
serve.
1110. ORTOLANS IN CROUSTADES, A LA PROVENCALS.
Place the ortolans in a sauta-pan with three table-spoonfuls of salad
oil, a bruised clove of garlic, some chopped truffles, mushrooms, and
parsley; season with miguionette-pepper, salt, nutmeg, and the jnice
of a lemon; fry them in this over a brisk fire for about ten minates,
adding a small piece of glaze and a spoonfnl of Espagnole sauce when
done; toss the whole together, and then put the ortolans into smaU
oval crduslades of bread, fried in ofl. Pour the fine-herbs over then*,
and place them npon a baking-sheet in the oven for about a quarter of
an hour, that they may acquire a bright light-brown color; then,
dish them up, pour some Provencale sauce (No. 25) over them, and
serve.
1111. WHEATEARS IN CASES, WITH FINE-HERBS.
These are in season in August, and are seldom exposed for sale in
the London markets ; they are more plentiful at Brighton, being chiefly
caught in that neighborhood: wheatears are not more than two-thirds
of the size of larks, but when in good condition, are so unctuous as to
resemble small lumps of butter, and are esteemed by epicures as very
choice eating. Cut the legs off the wheatears, chop some truffles,
mushrooms, and one shalot, and fry these in a sautapan with two pats
of butter; season with pepper and salt, and grated nutmeg; then add
a spoonful of sauce, two yolks of eggs, the juice of half a lemon, a small


ENTREES OF FISH. 373
piece of anehovy-bntter, and a little glaze; place two wheatears in each
case (previously oiled and baked to stiffen the paper), pour the sauce
over them, and bake them in the oven upon a sautapan for aboat a
quarter of an hour; pour a little bright Espagnole sauce over them,
and serve.
FISH ENTREES, v
coxpRisue
Rondim of Lobster, A la Cardinal. Fillets of Soles, A la Ditppoite.
. Qucnelte$ „ A la Vertpri. „ d la Muitrc d'HSteL
Boudim of Whitings, A la Suprime. „ A la Vinitiinne.
Quenelles „ d la Prineeeee. „ d la Proveneale.
Boudine of Salmon, A I'ltaliinne. „ A I'Borlg.
Quenelles „ d la Bavigotte. „ A la Rnyale.
Blanquette of Sturgeon. Paupiiltet of Soles, A la Cardinal.
Scollops of Sturgeon, with Fine-herbr. Dolphins of Whitings, A la Paritienne.
Cutlets „ Ala Boargnignottt. Fillets of Whiting, Ac.
Fillets of Salmon, A I'Aurora. Fillets of Trout, <J lit OkevaMre.
,, A la Parieiinne. - „ A la Rtgence.
„ A la MainUnon. Epigramme of Fillets of Trout.
Fillets of Turbot Fillets of Perch, Ac
Filleta of Gurnet, with Caper Sauce. „ of Mackerel.
1112. BOUDINS OF LOBSTER, A LA CARDINAL.
Chop the meat of two good-sized lobsters very fine, put this into a
mortar with the pith, and part of the coral, reserving the remainder for
the sance; add two-thirds of its proportion of butter, pound the whole
thoroughly, and rub the produce through a fine wire sieve upon a plate;
put the lobster back in the mortar with half its quantity of Panada
(No. 239), and pound these until well mixed; add three yolks of eggs,
with pepper, salt, and nutmeg, mix thoroughly by pounding, add one
whole egg, and then try the force-meat, by poaching a small portion
of it in boiling water; when done, cut it through the middle, and if the
inside presents a smooth compact surface, take the force-meat up into
a basin, but if it appears soft and rough, add a little more Panada,
and another egg; divide the force-meat into three parts, roll these
npon a slab with a little flour into oblong boudins, about six inches in
length by two inches square; poach them with boiling water in a deep
sautapan by the stove-fire, for about twenty minutes, turning them over
carefully when done on one side; drain them upon a napkin, trim the
sides, and mask them with some Cardinal sauce (No. 48); place
across them some small fillets of soles, contuses with truffles, and dish
them up in a triangular form; fill the centre with a ragout a la Car-
dinal (No. 200), and serve.
1113. QUENELLES OF LOBSTER, A LA VERTPRE.
Motjld eighteen table-spoonfuls of quenelles with some lobster force-
neat prepared as directed in the foregoing case; place them in circular
order, in a sautapan spread with butter, and poach them with boiling
water, which must be poured upon a stewpan-cover held in a sloping
direction against the side of the sautapan; put a round of buttered


374 ENTREES OF FISH.
paper over the quenelles, and set them to simmer gently by the side
of a stove-fire for about twenty minutes. When done, drain them upon
a napkin, stick some thick pieces of the antennas, or horns, of the
lobsters in one end of the quenelles, dish them up in close circular
order, pour some Vertpre sauce (No. 21) over them, fill the centre with
picked prawns'-tails (previously warmed in a little glaze and lobster
coral), and serve.
1114. BOUDINS OF WHITINGS, A LA SUPREME.
Pound the fillets of four skinned whitings, and rub them throngh a
fine wire sieve; put the produce in a mortar, with two-thirds of its
quantity of fresh butter, and an equal proportion of bread panada
(No. 239); pound these until well mixed, season with pepper, salt,
and nutmeg, adding three yolks of eggs, and continue pounding for
five minutes, then add two whole eggs, and after these have been
thoroughly mixed in by pounding, take the force-meat up into a basin.
Previously to using the force-meat, add a spoonful of Allemande or
Bechamel sauce; next, shake some flour over a slab or table, divide
the force-meat with a table-spoon into fourteen equal parts, roll these
with the hand dipped in flour into small oval shapes, and place them
immediately in a sautapan spread with butter; mask them over with
a soft paste-brush dipped in beaten white of egg, and decorate them
with black truffles. Poach the boudins with boiling water, in the usual
manner; when done, drain them upon a napkin, and dish them up in
a close circle, so as to show the decorated part; fill the centre with a
ragout consisting either of muscles, oysters, shrimps, crayfish, or mush-
rooms; pour round some Supreme sauce (No. 38), finished with some
reduced essence made from the bones of the fish, and serve.
1115. QUENELLES OF WHITINGS, A LA FRINCESSE.
Mould sixteen quenelles in table-spoons, with some force-meat of
whitings prepared as directed in the above case, mixed with a spoonful
of puree of mushrooms (No. 122); place the quenelles in a sautapan
spread with butter, poach them in the usual manner, and when done,
drain, and dish them up in close circular order; pour some Princesse
sauce (No. 45) over the entree, fill the centre with a ragout of soft
roes of mackerel (No. 199), and serve.
1116. BOUDINS OF SALMON, A L'ITALIENNE.
Pound about one pound of fresh salmon, and pass it through a fine
wire sieve; then put it again into a mortar with two-thirds of its
quantity of fresh butter, and an equal proportion of bread panada
(No. 239); pound these thoroughly for about five minutes, season
with pepper, salt, and nutmeg, adding three yolks of eggs; mix these
well together, then add one whole egg, and a spoonful of reduced
Allemande sauce, continue pounding for ten minutes longer, after
which take the force-meat up into a basin. Mould four large quenelles
with ragout-spoons, and place them in a deep sautapan spread with
butter; lay a small fillet of sole contise with black truffles round the
edge of each quenelle, poach them in the usual way, and when done,
drain them upon a napkin, then dish them upright against a narrow
crdustade of fried bread, previously fastened in the centre of the dish;
place a large crayfish between each quenelle, garnish the top of the


STURGEON AND SALMON. 375
croustade with scollops of mushrooms, pour some white Italian sauce
(No. 13) round the entree, and serve.
1117. QUENELLES OF SALMON, A LA RAVIGOTTE.
Mould a dozen quenelles in table-spoons, with some force-meat of
salmon prepared as directed above; poach them in the ordinary way,
and when done, drain and dish them up in close circular order; pour
some Ravigotte sauce (No. 21) over them, fill the centre with scollops
of whitings tossed in a little Allemande sauce, and serve.
1118. BLANQUETTE OF STURGEON.
Braize about two pounds of sturgeon in some wine mirepoix (No.
236) for about three quarters of an hour, and set it to cool in its
own liquor; then drain and cut it up into scollops, and place these in
a stewpan with some scollops of truffles and button-mushrooms, to
which add some Allemande sauce finished with part of the mirepoix
reduced for the purpose: warm the blanquette, dish it up in the form
of a dome, garnish round with lobster croquettes, and serve.
1119.' SCOLLOPS OF STURGEON, WITH FINE-HERBS.
Procure about two pounds of sturgeon, place it in an earthen pan,
Strew over it sliced carrot and onion, parsley, bay-leaf, and thyme, and
season with mignionette pepper and salt, lemon-juice, and a gill of
salad-oil; allow this to remain for a day or two, frequently turning
the fish over in the seasoning. When about to dress the sturgeon,
drain it upon a cloth to absorb all the moisture, and cut it up into
heart-shaped or oval scollops, about the thickness of a quarter of an
inch; place these in a sautapan with some clarified butter, six ounces
of scollops of truffles, some mushrooms, parsley, and two shalots
chopped fine, and season with a little cayenne and grated nutmeg; fry
the whole on a moderate fire, turning the scollops over when lightly
browned on one side. When they are done, drain off the grease,
pour in some finished sturgeon sauce (No. 56), toss the whole
together over the fire for three minutes, dish the scollops up in the
form of a dome, garnish round with a border of crayfish tails, and
•erve. •
1120.' CUTLETS OF STURGEON, A LA BOURGUIGNOTTE.
First steep the sturgeon as directed in the foregoing case; then,
cot it up into heart-shaped fillets, about the size and rather thicker
than fillets of fowls: stick the claw of a crayfish into the pointed end
of each cutlet, and place them in a curved form in a sautapan with
some clarified butter: season with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a little
lemon-juice. Fry the cutlets of a light-brown color on both sides;
pour off the grease, toss them in a little glaze, and dish them up in a
close circle; fill the centre with some Bourguignotte ragout (No. 195),
pour some of the sauce round the base, and serve.
1121. FILLETS OF SALMON, A l'aURORE.
Cut about two pounds of salmon into oval fillets; place these in a
saatapan with some clarified butter, season with pepper, salt, a little
chopped parsley, and lemon-juice; fry them over the stove-fire for


376 ENTREES OF FISH.
five minutes, pour off nearly all the butter, and then mask each fillet
with a thin coating of Allemande sauce (No. 7) ; rub eight hard-boiled
yolks of eggs through a wire sieve, and spread this kind of vermicelli
equally over all the fillets; then pass the hot salamander over them
to deepen the color of the yolk of egg, dish the fillets up in a close
circle, fill the centre with a ragout of mushrooms, small quenelles, and
muscles, tossed in some Aurora sauce (No. 41), pour some of it round
the base, and serve.
1122. FILLETS OF SALMON, A LA PARISIENNE.
Cut these into the shape of fillets of fowls, season with a little
pepper and salt, and mask them over with a coating of reduced Alle-
mande sauce; when this has become cold, bread-crumb them twice
over in the usual manner, and put them in a sautapan with some
clarified butter; fry the fillets over a brisk stove-fire, of a light color,
and when done, drain, and dish them up in a close circle; fill the
centre with some ragout a la Parisiiinne (No. 203), pour some of the
sauce round the base, and serve.
1123. SALMON CUTLETES, A LA MAINTENON.
Trim the salmon into fillets, as above, and place them in a sautapan
with some clarified butter; season with pepper and salt, grated nut-
meg, chopped mushrooms, truffles, parsley, and two shalots, and fry
them over a stove-fire for five minutes; then add two gravy-spoon-
fuls of Allemande sauce (No. 7), a small piece of glaze, and the juice
of half a lemon; simmer the whole together for two minutes longer
and remove them from the fire. Cut as many sheets of small note-
paper, into the shape of hearts, as there are cutlets; oil them over
with a paste-brush, place one in each, divide the sauce equally, and
then fold the edges down all round, by neatly and firmly twisting
them under in pleats, so as thoroughly to prevent the sauce from
escaping; place the cutlets upon a clean gridiron, over a clear fire of
coke, of very moderate heat, and broil them without allowing the
paper to burn; dish them up in a close circle, fill the centre with
fried parsley, and send some brown Italian sauce (No. 12) separately
in a boat.
• 1124. FILLETS OF TURBOT.
These are described in the section treating of turbots dressed for
removes, &c (No. 405).
1125. FILLETS OF GURNETS, WITH CAPER SAUCE.
Fillet the gurnets, remove the skin, and if the fish are large,
divide each fillet into several pieces, so that they may not be larger
than fillets of fowls; place them in a sautapan with clarified butter,
season with pepper and salt, and place them in the oven, or over a
stove-fire, to simmer for about five minutes, then turn them over, and
when done on both sides, drain them upon a napkin, and dish them up
in a close circle; fill the centre with small quenelles of the same kind
of fish, pour some caper sauce (No. 90) over the entrle, and serve.
Note.—Fillets of gurnets prepared and dished up as the above, may
also be served with any of the following sauces:—Italian, Ravigotte,
MaUre-d'hbtel, Oyster, Muscles, or Crayfish.


FILLETS OF SOLES. 377
1126. FILLETS OF SOLES, A LA DIEPPOISE.
Trim the fillets, and spread them on the outside with a preparation
of fine-herbs, mixed with three yolks of eggs; then double them up,
put them together, and insert the claw of a crayfish into the narrow
end of each. Place the fillets in a sautapan thickly spread with butter,
moisten with the liquor from the oysters used for the sauce, and season
with a little mignionette-pepper and salt; cover these with a circular
piece of paper spread with butter, and set them to simmer gently over
a stove-fire for about ten minutes; when they are done, drain the fillets
on a napkin, and dish them up in a close circle, showing the crayfish
claws; fill the centre, garnish the base of the entree with some Norman
matelotte ragout (No. 194), and serve.
1127. FILLETS OF SOLES, A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL.
Trim the fillets neatly, take hold of both ends (keeping the whitest
■ide uppermost), and bring them together, one overlaying the other;
then place them in a sautapan with some clarified butter, season with
pepper and salt, chopped parsley, and a little lemon-juice, simmer them
•ver the fire for ten minutes, and when done, drain and dish them up
in a close circle; pour some Maitre-d'hdtel sauce (No. 43) over them,
and serve.
Note.—Fillets of soles prepared as the foregoing, may also be served
with either of the following sauces:—Ravigotte, Italian, Aurora, Pas-
caline, Crayfish, Oyster, Shrimp, and Dutch.
1128. FILLETS OF SOLES, A LA VENITIENNE.
Fillet four soles, trim the fillets, and place one half in a sautapan,
with some clarified butter, lemon-juice, pepper and salt, in the manner
directed in the foregoing case; simmer the remainder (without trim-
ming them) also with the same seasoning; when they are done, drain
them upon a plate, and allow these to cool. Then, cut up the latter
into small dice, mix them with some reduced Allemande sauce, and
season with two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, mignionette-pepper
and grated nutmeg; spread this preparation out upon an earthen dish
about the sixth part of an inch thick, and when it has become firm by
cooling, cut it out into pieces about the size and shape of the fillets,
and bread-crumb these in the usual manner. Just before sending to
table, simmer the fillets over the stove, and fry the croquettes in plenty
of clean hog's-lard, made hot for the purpose; when done, drain both
upon a napkin, and dish them in a close circle, placing alternately the
croquettes and fillets; fill the centre with small quenelles of whitings,
pour some Venetian sauce (No. 26) over these and the white fillets
only, and serve.
1129. FILLETS OF SOLES, A LA PROVENCALE.
Trim the fillets of soles, divide each, and steep them for several
hours in a basin with mignionette-pepper, a little salt, lemon-juice,
salad-oil, thyme, bay-leaf, and two shalots. Then, drain the fillets on
a cloth to absorb all the moisture, flour them over, dip them in some
light batter (No. 231), and fry them in clean hog's-lard; when they
have acquired a light color, drain them upon a napkin, dish them up,


378 ENTREES OF FISH.
poor either some Provengale, Dutch, Fine-herbs, Ravlgolle, or Maitre
d'Hitel sauce under them, and serve.
1130. FILLETS OF SOLES, A LA HORLY.
Trim the fillets of soles, and steep them for several hours in the
same kind of seasoning directed to be used for No. 1129—substituting
two spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar for the lemon-juice. Drain the fil-
lets on a cloth, in order to absorb tbe moisture, then shake them in
some flour, drop them in some clean hog's-lard, and fry them of a light
color; drain the fillets upon a sieve covered with paper, dish them up
in a pile, pour either some Tomata, Italian, Piqudnte, Savigotle, or
Provencale sauce round them, and serve.
1131. FILLETS OF SOLES, A LA ROUENNAISE.
Fillet three large soles, divide each across, and trim them in the
shape of fillets of fowls; mask them over with a coating of d'Uxellea
sauce (No. 16), and when this has become firm upon them by cooling,
bread-crumb them twice over in the ordinary way; stick a piece of the
horns of a lobster into the narrow end of each fillet, so as to give them
the appearance of cutlets, and place them in a sautapan, with some
clarified butter. Fry the fillets of a bright-yellow color, on both
sides; drain, and then dish them up in a close circle, fill the centre
with a Rouennaise rat/out (No. 197), and serve.
1132. PAUPIETTES OF FILLETS OF SOLES, A LA CARDINAL.
Trim the fillets of four large soles, spread them upon a napkin, gar-
nish each with a layer of quenelle force-meat. of whitings, mixed with
some lobster coral, and roll each fillet up in the form of a small barrel;
spread four sheets of letter-paper with butter, then place four pavpieties
in each, squeeze some lemon-juice over them, and roll them up tightly
to keep them in shape. Place these rolls of paupieltes in a sautapan,
and put them in the oven to bake for about twenty minutes; then re-
move the papers, drain the paupiiltes upon a napkin, pare off the ends
with a sharp knife, and dish them up on their ends, side by side, in a
close circle, so as to show the coral; fill the centre with some Cardi-
nal ragout (No. 200), pour some of the sauce over the fillets, and
serve.
1133. DOLPHINS OF WHITINGS, A LA PARISIENNE.
Skin four fine fresh whitings, and remove the back-bones without
detaching the fillets from the head; roll out, and bake a circular piece
of common paste, nearly the size of the bottom of the dish; fasten
thereon a pillar-shaped croustade of fried bread three inches high, and
one inch in diameter. Prepare some force-meat of whitings, colored
with lobster coral, and mask the heads and fillets of whitings entirely
with it, smoothing them over with a knife dipped in hot water; then
turn the tail-ends of the fish, inwardly, down upon the centre-of the
head—giving to each the form of a heart; place them upright agatist
the croustade, with their heads resting flat upon the foundation of
paste, and decorate them over with half-moons of black truffles, placed
thereon so as to represent scales of fish; cover them with very thia
layers of fat bacon, and encircle the entree with a baud of buttered


FILLETS OF TROUT.
379
paper, fastened with two pins : this must not touch the whitings. Bake
the dolphins in a moderately-beated oven, for about forty minutes;
ascertain whether they are done through, and then remove the paper
and bacon; absorb all the grease, place them carefully upon their dish,
garnish the entree with a ragout of butto..-niushrooms, oysters, and
crayfish-tails; surmount the whole with a large truffle, glaze the dol-
phins with a little lobster coral diluted in the glaze, pour some
Supreme sauce (No. 38), finished with an . essence made from the
bones and trimmings, round the entree, and serve.
Note.—Fillets of whitings may also be prepared according to the
several directions given for dressing fillets of soles.
1134. FILLETS OP TROUT, A LA CHEVALIERE.
Divide the fillets of two good-sized trout into moderate-sized oval
scollops or fillets; mask them over with reduced d'Uxelles sauce (No.
16), and bread-crumb them twice over this with bread-crumbs mixed
with grated Parmesan cheese in the proportion of one-third; the fillets
must be first dipped in beaten egg, and then sprinkled with clarified
butter, preparatory to their being bread-crumbed a second time. Fry
tbem of a bright-yellow color, drain, and dish them up in a close circle,
fill the centre with a ragout of soft roes of mackerel or herrings, and
crayfish tails; pour some Crayfish sauce (No. 54) round the entree,
and serve.
1135. FILLETS OF TROUT, A LA REGENCE.
Trim the fillets into pieces resembling fillets of fowls; place them
in a sautapan with clarified butter, and season with pepper and salt,
chopped parsley, and lemon-juice; simmer the fillets over the fire for
five minutes, turn them over, and when done on both sides, drain and
dish them up in a close circle; fill the centre with a ragout a la Regence
(No, 210), pour some of the sauce round the base, and serve.
1136. EPIGRAMME OF FILLETS OF TROUT.
Trim the fillets as above, bread-crumb one half, in the ordinary
manner, and place these in a sautapan, with clarified butter; put the
remainder into another sautapan, with clarified butter, without being
bread-crumbed, and season with pepper and salt. Fry the fillets, drain
and dish them up in a close circle, placing one of each kind alter-
nately; fill the centre with some scollops of fillets of soles, tossed in a
spoonful of Bechamel sauce, and some chopped and parboiled parsley;
pour some Aurora sauce (No. 41), over the plain fillets (taking care
not to smear those that are bread-crumbed), pour some of it round the
base, and serve.
Note.—Fillets of plaice, flounders, and perch, may be dressed in the
game manner as directed for fillets of soles or whitings.
1137. FILLETS OF MACKEREL.
See Mackerel (No. 480).


380
SECOND-COURSE ROASTS,
ooMPRiaiso
Roast Hare. Boast Larks.
„ Rabbits. . „ Woodcocks, £c.
„ Pheasants. „ Capons.
„ Partridges. „ Poulards.
„ Quails. „ Green Goose.
„ Ruffs and Reeves „ Ducklings.
„ Ortolans. ,, Pigeons.
„ Wheatears. „ Black Game.
„ Guinea-fowls. „ Pea-fowl.
1138. BOAST HARE.
Skin and draw the hare, leaving on the ears, which must be scalded,
and the hairs scraped off; pick out the eyes, and cut off the feet or
pads, just above the first joint; wipe the hare with a clean cloth, and
cut the 6inews at the back of the hind-quarters, and below the fore-
legs. Prepare some veal stuffing, and fill the paunch with it; sew this
up with string, or fasten it with a wooden skewer, then draw the
legs under, as if the hare was in a sitting posture, set the head be-
tween the shoulders, and stick a small skewer through them, running
also throngh the neck, to 6ecure its position; run another skewer
through the four legs gathered up under the paunch, then take a
yard of string, double it in two, placing the centre of it on the breast
of the hare, and bring both ends over the skewer, cross the string
over both sides of the other skewer, and fasten it over the back. Spit
the hare, and roast it before a brisk fire for about three-quarters of an
hour, frequently basting it with butter or dripping. Five minutes
before taking the hare up, throw on a little salt, shake some flour over
it with ar dredger, and baste it with some fresh butter; when this froths
up, and the hare has acquired a rich brown crust, take it off the spit,
dish it up with water-cresses round it, pour some brown gravy under,
and send some currant-jelly in a boat, to be handed round.,
1139. ROAST RABBITS.
Truss these in the same manner as hares, then spit and roast them
before a rather 'brisk fire, frequently basting them; ten minutes before
taking them up, baste the rabbits with the following preparation:—>
Mix a gill of cream with a table-spoonful of flour, some chopped pars-
ley, two yolks of eggs, pepper, salt, and nutmeg; mask the rabbits
entirely with this, and as soon as it has dried on them, baste them
with some fresh butter. This not only adds to the attractive appear-
ance of the rabbits, but it concentrates their gravy, and prevents them
from becoming dry, which too generally occurs when roasted accord-
ing to the common practice. When done, take the rabbits up with
care, to avoid breaking off the light-brown crust formed upon them;
dish them up, pour some sauce prepared as follows, under them, and
serve.
Boil the livers, chop them fine, and put them into a small stewpan
with chopped parsley, a small piece of glaze, a pat of butter, a spoon
ful of sauce, pepper, aud salt, grated lemon-peel, nutmeg, and a spoon-


BOAST PHEASANTS, PARTRIDGES, ETC. 381
ful of gravy; stir this over the fire until it boils, and nse it as directed
above.
1140. ROAST PHEASANT.
Draw the pheasant by making a small opening at the vent, make an
incision along the back-part of the neck, loosen the pouch, <fcc, with
the fingers, and then remove it; singe the body of the pheasant and its
legs over the flame of a charcoal-fire, or with a piece of paper; rob the
scaly cuticle off the legs with a cloth, trim away the claws and spurs,
cut off the neck close up to the back, leaving the skin of the breast
entire, wipe the pheasant clean, and then truss it in the following manner:
Place the pheasant upon its breast, run a trussing-needle and string
through the left pinion, (the wings being removed), then turn the bird
over on its back, and place the thumb and fore-finger of the left hand
across the breast, holding the legs erect; thrust the needle through
the middle joint of both thighs, draw it out and then pass it through
the other pinion, and fasten the strings at the back; next, pass the
needle through the hollow of the back, just below the thighs, thrust it
again through the legs and body, and tie the strings tightly: this will
give it an appearance of plumpuess. Spit and roast the pheasant before
a brisk fire, for about half an hour, frequently basting it; when done,
send to table with brown gravy under it and bread sauce (No. 80),
separately, in a boat.
1141. ROAST PARTRIDGES.
These should be trussed, roasted, and served in the same manner as
pheasants. Sometimes, for the sake of variety, both pheasants and
partridges are larded in the same way as sweethreads, but the practice
is not generally liked.
1142. ROAST QUAILS.
Draw and truss "these in the manner directed for pheasants; cut
some thin square layers of fat bacon, just large enough to cover a quail,
spread a vine-leaf over each of these, cut it to their size, and then tie
them neatly on the breasts of the quails. Run an iron skewer through
the quails, fasten this on to a spit, and roast them before a brisk fire,
for about a quarter of an hour, then dish them up with water-cresses
round them, glaze the layers of bacon, pour some gravy under the
quails, and serve.
1143. RUFFS AND REEVES.
These birds must not be drawn, neither do they require much truss-
ing, being very plump; a small wooden skewer should be run through
the thighs and pinions, with a string passed round it, and fastened;
cover these also with a layer of bacon and a vine-leaf, run them upon
a lark-spit, and roast them before a brisk fire for about twenty minutes,
frequently basting them with butter, and set some toasted bread under
them, to receive their droppings. When done, dish them up on square
pieces of the toast, garnish with water-cresses, pour some gravy under
them, and serve the following sauce separately in a boat:—A ragout-
spoonful of good hutter-sauue (No. 70), a piece of glaze, Cayenne
pepper, and lemon-juice.
Ortolans and Wheatears are served in the same manner as the
foregoing.


382 SECOND-COURSE ROASTS.
1144. ROAST LARKS.
Cut off the heads and legs, and pick out the gizzards at the sides
with the point of a small knife; season with chopped parsley, pepper
and salt, and nutmeg; rub the larks over with beaten yolks of eggs,
bread-crumb them, sprinkle them with clarified butter, and roll them in
bread-crumbs a second time; then run them on a lark-spit; fasten this
on a common spit, and roast them before a very brisk fire, for about a
quarter of an hour, basting them with fresh butter melted in a spoon
before the fire. When done, dish them up in rows, or in a circle, fill
the centre with bread-crumbs fried of a light-brown color in a sautapan
with butter, and serve them with the sauce recommended for ruffs and
reeves.
1145. WOODCOCKS AND SNIPES.
These are both trussed and roasted in the same manner. First, pick
them entirely, neck and head, then twist the legs at the joints, so as to
bring the feet down upon the thighs; run their bill through the thighs
and body, and fasten a noose with string round the bend of the joints,
across the lower part of the breast; bring both ends round the head
and tip of the bill, and fasten it on the back. Cover the woodcocks
with layers of bacon, and tie these round with string; roast them before
the fire, for about five-and-twenty minutes, frequently basting them with
butter or dripping; place some toasted bread under the birds, to
receive the droppings from the trail, and when they are done, dish
them up with a piece of the toast under each, and water-cresses round
them. Serve some extract of woodcocks (No. 173) separately, in a
boat.
1146. ROAST CAPONS.
Draw and truss these as directed for trussing pheasants ; place them
upon a spit, fasten the feet to it with string, to prevent the capon from
twisting round while roasting: about three quarters of an hour will
suffice to roast them. When done, dish them up with water-cresses,
pour some bright gravy under them, and serve with bread-sauce in a
boat.
Poulards, fowls, chickens, and turkey poults, are treated in the same
manner as the foregoing.
1147. GREEN-GOOSE.
Draw the goose, pick off all the stubble-feathers, scald the legs, and
rub off the skin with a cloth; cut the tips of the feet, and twist the legs
round so as to let the web of the feet rest flat upon the thighs; then
truss the goose in the ordinary way, as directed for pheasants. Place
it on a spit, and roast it before a brisk fire, for about three quarters of
an hour; when done, dish it up with water-cresses round it, pour some
gravy under, and serve.
Ducklings are roasted and served in the same way as the above.
1148. ROAST PIGEONS.
Truss these with thin layers of fat bacon and a vine-leaf over the
breasts; roast them before the fire for about twenty minutes, and when
done, dish them up with a sauce made with the livers, in the manner
directed for making liver-sauce for rabbits (No. 1139).


GROUSE AND GUINEA-FOWLS.
383
1149. ROAST RLACK-GAME, AND GROUSE.
Both these should be trussed in the same manner as pheasants,
then roasted before a brisk fire, and five minutes before taking them up
should be frothed with flour and butter, according to the directions for
roast hare; when done, dish them up with gravy under them, and send
to table with fried bread-crumbs, and bread-sauce, in separate sauce-
boats.
1150a. PEAHENS.
Truss these in the same way as pheasants, except that the head
must be left adhering to the skin of the breast, and fastened at the
side of the thigh; let the peahen be closely larded all over the breast,
and roasted before a moderate fire for about an hour; when nearly
done, glaze the larding, and on removing the fowl from the fire, dish
up with water-cresses, pour some gravy under, and serve with bread-
sauce separately, in a sauce-boat.
1150J. GUINEA-FOWLS.
Two of these are generally served for a dish, one of which should
be larded, and the other covered with a layer of fat bacon; roast them
before a brisk fire for about forty minutes, glaze and dish them up
with water-cresses: pour some gravy under, and serve bread-sauce
separately, in a boat.
VEGETABLES FOR ENTREMETS, OR SECOND-COURSE
DISHES,
COMPRISING
Braized Celery, with Eepagnole sauce.
Celery, d la Villeroi,
Salsifis, d la Crime.
„ fried in Batter.
Spinach, with Butter.
„ with Cream.
En Jive, with Cream.
Cauliflowers, with White Sauce.
„ with Parmesan Cheese.
Totnatas, d la Provencale.
Mushrooms, au gratin.
Large Truffle*. d la Serviitte.
Truffles, d la Piimontaiac,
Portugal Onions, d I'E»pagnnle.
Artichokes, with Butter Sauce.
„ d la Barigoule.
„ d la Lyonnaiee.
„ « I ' Ttaliinne.
Asparagus, with White Sauce.
Asparagus Peas, d la Crime.
French Beans, d la Maitre-d'hGtel.
French Beans, with" Fine-herbs.
Broad Beans, d la Crime,
Green Peas, plain.
Stewed Peas.
Peas, d la Francaiee.
Turnips glade, with Sugar.
Toung Carrots, d I'AUemande.
Vegetable Marrow.
Another Method.
Cucumbers, d la Poulette,
„ d I'Eepagnole.
Jerusalem Artichokes, d la Sauce.
fl d I ' Italihme.
White Haricot Beans, d la MaUre-d'h6teU
„ d la Britonne.
American Yams, d la FrancaUe.
Potatoes, d la Ma%tre-d*h6tel.
New Potatoes, d la Creme.
Potatoes, d la Crime, au gratin.
Seakale, d la Sauce.
Brussels Sprouts.
1151. BRAIZED CELERY, WITH ESPAGNOLE SAUCE.
Clean twelve heads of celery, cut them about six inches in length,
and trim the roots neatly; parboil them in water for ten minutes,


VEGETABLES FOR ENTREMETS. 385
water, and afterward squeeze all the water from it. The spinach
must next be carefully turned over with the point of a knife, to remove
any straws or stalks that may have been overlooked; it should then be
chopped or pounded in a mortar, rubbed through a coarse wire sieve,
and placed in a stewpan with about two ounces of butter, a little salt,
and grated nutmeg; stir the spinach over a stove-fire with a wooden
spoon until it becomes quite warm, then add a gravy-spoonful of good
sauce, a small piece of glaze, and about four onnces of fresh butter.
Work the whole together, with a wooden spoon, until well mixed, then
pile the spinach up in the centre of the dish, garnish it round with
crdutons, and serve.
1156. SPINACH, WITH CREAM.
Prepare the spinach as above, season with a little nntmeg, salt,
and two ounces of fresh butter; stir it oyer a stove-fire until quite
warm, then add a gill of double cream, two pats of butter, and a
good dessert-spoonful of pounded sugar; work the whole well together
over the fire, and dish up the spinach as directed in the foregoing
article.
1157. ENDIVE, WITH CREAM.
Pick off all the outer leaves, leaving only the white; trim the
roots, and wash the endive in several waters, carefully removing any
insects that may be concealed in the inner folds of the leaves. Put a
large stewpau half filled with water on a brisk fire, and when it boils,
throw in the endives, with a handful of salt, and allow them to con-
tinue boiling fast until they become quite tender; drain them in a
colander, immerse them in plenty of cold water, then squeeze all the
moisture from them, and place them on a sieve. Next, take each
head of endive separately, cut off the root, and again look over the
leaves, spreading them on the table with the point of a knife; when
this is completed, chop them very fine, and pass them through a
coarse wire sieve. Then, place them in a stewpan with a quarter
of a pound of fresh butter, a little grated nutmeg, and salt; stir this
over the fire for ten minutes, add half a pint of double cream, a gravy-
spoonful of Bechamel or Veloute sauce, and a dessert-spoonful of
pounded sugar; keep the endives boiling on a stove-fire until suffi-
ciently reduced so as to be able to pile them on a dish when sending
to table; garnish round with crdutons or Jieurons, and serve.
1158. CAULIFLOWERS, WITH WHITE SAUCE.
Remove the green stalks, divide them, if large, into quarters, and
with the point of a small knife pick out all the small leaves; wash the
cauliflowers, and boil them in hot water, with a little mignionette-
pepper, a pat of butter, and some salt: when done, drain them upon a
sievc Next, take a round-bottomed quart basin, and fill it with the
cauliflowers, placing the flowerets next the sides, that the white only
may show when dished up; previously to turning them out upon
the dish, drain them again on a napkin, by turning the basin up-
side down upon it; after which, turn the cauliflowers out into their
dish, pour some white sauce (No. 71) over them, garnish with Jieurons,
and serve.
24


386 SECOND-COURSE DISHES.
1159. CAULIFLOWERS, WITH PARMESAN CHEESE.
Prepare and disn up the cauliflowers as directed above. Put a
large ragout-spooiu\ of Bechamel or Veloute sauce, into a stewpan,
with four ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, two ounces of fresh
butter, the yolks of four eggs, a small piece of glaze, some lemon-juice,
nutmeg, pepper and salt; stir this preparation over a stove-fire, until
it be well mixed, without boiling; then, pour it on to the cauliflowers,
bo as to mask them entirely with it. Smooth the dome over with the
blade of a knife, and cover the top with a coating of grated Parmesan
cheese; place them in the ovei\ to gratinate for about a quarter of an
hour; when they have acquired a bright-yellow color, put a border of
croutons of fried bread round the base, and serve.
The croutons may be stuck round the bottom of the dish in the form
of a coronet, previously to dishing up the cauliflowers, so as to prevent
them from spreading.
1160. TOMATAS, A LA PROVENCALE.
Slice off that part of the tomata that adheres to the stalk, scoop
out the seeds without breaking the sides of the fruit, and place this in
circular order in a sautapan, containing about a gill of salad oil. Next,
chop up half a pottle of mushrooms, a handful of parsley, and four
shalots; put these into a stewpan with two ounces of scraped fat
bacon, and an equal proportion of lean ham, either chopped or grated
fine; season with pepper and salt, and a little chopped thyme. Fry
these over the stove-fire for about five minutes; then, mix in the yolks
of four eggs, fill the tomatas with this preparatiou, shake some light-
colored raspings of bread over them, and place them over a brisk
stove-fire, holding a red-hot salamander over them for about ten
minutes, by which time they will be done; dish them up in the form
of a dome, pour some brown Italian sauce (No. 12) round the base,
and serve.
1161. MUSHROOMS, AU GRATIN.
Punnet, or large mushrooms, must be used for this purpose. Cut
the stalks, trim the edges, and remove the skin, then fill each mush-
room with a similar preparation to that directed to be used for
tomatas a la Provengale; shake some raspings of bread over them,
place them in a sautapan, thickly spread with butter; put them in the
oven for about a quarter of an hour to gratinate, and then dish them
up in a pyramidal form; pour some brown Italian sauce round them,
and serve.
1162. LARGE TRUFFLES, A LA SERVIETTE.
When the truffles have been thoroughly cleansed by brushing the
mould off in water, drain them in a sieve, then place them in a stew-
pan lined with thin layers of fat bacon; pour some wine mirepoix (No.
236) on them, place some layers of bacon on the top, and set them to
boil on the stove-fire; the lid must then be put on, and hermetically
closed round with stiff flour-and-water paste to concentrate the flavor
of the truffles. Allow them to simmer gently by the side of a slow
fire, or in the oven, for about three-quarters of an hour, then dish


ENTREMETS OF VEGETABLES. 387
them in the folds of a napkin, and send the following sance separately
in a sauce-boat:—Mix a gill of the finest salad-oil with a table-spoon-
ful of chopped parsley, the juice of a lemon, some mignionette-pepper,
a little salt, and two table-spoonfuls of half-glaze (made by boiling
down about a gill of the mirepoix in which the truffles have been
boiled), which send to table in a sauce-boat
.
1163. TRUFFLES, A LA PIEMONTAISE.
Cut half a ponnd of fresh truffles into scollops, place them in a sauta-
pan with two table-spoonfuls of Lucca-oil, one of chopped parsley, a
little chopped thyme, a clove of garlic, some mignionette-pepper and
salt; fry them over a brisk stove-fire for five minutes, remove the garlic,
then add a gravy-spoonful of Italian or Espagnole sauce, a small
piece of glaze, and the juice of half a lemon; toss the whole together
over the fire, and pour it over the hollow crusts of two French rolls,
from which the top crust part has been removed, then thickly spread
with butter, and afterward placed in the oven for ten minutes to
become crisp.
116-1. PORTUGAL ONIONS, A l'eSPAGNOLE.
Peei, the onions and stamp out the cores with a long vegetable-
ontter about a quarter of an inch in diameter; parboil them in water,
for ten minutes, and then drain them upon a cloth. Spread-the bottom
of a deep sautapan with butter, place the onions in it, moisten with
broth sufficient to just cover them, and set them to boil gently over a
slow fire, occasionally turning them in their liquor; when they are
nearly done, add a dessert-spoonful of pounded sugar, boil them down
quickly to a glaze, and when this is done, roll the onions in it, and dish
them up in a close circle. Next, pour a gravy-spoonful of puree of
fresh tomatas, and an equal quantity of bright Espagnole sauce into
the remainder of the glaze, boil this together over the stove-fire, pour
it round the onions, and serve.
Note.—These onions are better adapted for garnishing removes of
braized beef, &c, than for being served as a second-course dish.
1165. ARTICHOKES, WITH BUTTER SAUCE.
Trim the bottoms of six artichokes, cut off the tips of the leaves,
and boil them in water with a little salt, for about three-quarters of an
hour; when done, drain them upon a sieve, and immerse them in cold,
water for five minutes; loosen the fibrous substance in the inside with
the handle of a table-spoon, and after this has been all removed from
the artichokes, put them back into some hot water for a few minutes to
warm them through; drain them upside down upon a napkin to absorb
all the moisture, and then dish them up on a napkin; pour a little
batter sance (No.Jl) inside each, and send up some of the sauce in a
boat.
1166. ARTICHOKES, A LA BARIGOULE.
Trim six small artichokes, and with the handle of an iron table-
spoon, scoop out all the fibrous part inside. Put about a pound of


388 ENTREMETS OF VEGETABLES.
clean hog's-lard into a frying-pan on the fire, and when quite hot, fry ,
the bottoms of the artichokes in it for about three minutes, then turn
them upside-down, and fry the tips of the leaves also; drain them upon
a cloth to absorb all the grease, and fill them with a similar prepara-
tion to that directed for tcmatas a la Provengale (No. 1160); cover
them over with layers of fat bacon, tie them up with string, and place
them in a large stewpan or fricandeau pan lined with thin layers of fat
bacon; moisten with half a tumbler of white wine, and a little good
consommi, or with some wine mirepoix (No. 236); put the lid on, and
after they have boiled up on the stove-fire, place them in the oven to
simmer very gently for about an hour. When done, drain them upon
a cloth, remove the strings and the bacon, fill the centre of each arti-
choke with some Italian sauce (No. 12), dish them up with some of the
sauce in a boat, and serve.
1167. ARTICHOKES, A LA LYONNAISE.
Pull off the lower leaves without damaging the bottoms of the
artichokes, which must be turned smooth with a sharp knife; cut the
artichokes into quarters, remove the fibrous parts, trim them neatly
and parboil them in water with a little salt, for about five minutes;
then drain them in a colander, and immerse them in cold water, after
which drain them upon a cloth, and arrange them in circular order in
a sautapan thickly spread with about four ounces of fresh butter; strew
a dessert-spoonful of pounded sugar over this, season with mignionette-
pepper and salt, moisten with a glass of white wine, and a gravy-
spoonful of good consommi, and place them on a slow fire to simmer
very gently for about three-quarters of an hour, taking care that they
do not burn. When done, they should be of a deep yellow color and
nicely glazed; dish them up in the form of a dome, showing the
bottom of the artichokes only; remove any leaves that may have
broken off in the santapan, add a ragroMi-spoonful of bright Espagnole
sauce, two pats of butter, and some lemon-juice; simmer this over the
stove-fire, stirring it meanwhile with a spoon, and when the butter
has been mixed in with the sauce, pour it over the artichokes, and
serve.
1168. ARTICHOKES, A L'ITALIENNE.
These are prepared in the manner described in the foregoing article,
except that when about to finish them, brown Italian sauce (No. 12)
must be substituted for Espagnole.
1169. ASPARAGUS, WITH WHITE SAUCE.
Pick the loose leaves from the heads, and scrape the stalks clean,
wash them in a pan of cold water, tie them up in bundles of about
twenty in each, keeping all the heads turned the same way; cut the
stalks even, leaving them about eight inches long. .Put the asparagns
in hot water with a small handful of salt in it, to boil for about twenty
minutes, and when done, drain them carefully upon a napkin to avoid
breaking off the heads ; dish them up on a square thick piece of toasted
bread dipped in the water they have been boiled in, and send to table
with some white sauce (No. 71) separately in a sauce-boat.


1
ASPARAGUS, AND FRENCH BEANS. 389
1170. ASPARAGUS-PEAS, A LA CREME.
Bon. a quart tof asparagus-peas in plenty of water and a handful of
salt: the water must boil before the peas are put in ; when they are
done, drain them in a colander, immerse them in cold water for three
mibates, and then drain them npon a sieve. Next place the aspara-
gus-peas in a stewpan with a small faggot of green onions and parsley,
two oances of butter, a table-spoonful of pounded sugar, a little
grated nutmeg, and salt; put the lid on and set them to simmer gently
over a slow fire for ten minutes. Then remove the faggot of parsley
and if there be any liquor in the peas, boil it down quickly, and in-
corporate with them two small pats of fresh butter, and a leason of
four yolks of eggs, mixed with half a gill of cream ; toss the peas over
a stove-fire to set the leason in them, and dish them up in the form
of a dome, with a border of Jleurone round them, and serve.
1171. FRENCH-BEANS, A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL.
Pick and string the beans, cut them up, and shred each bean into
three or four strips; wash them in plenty of water, drain them in a
colander, and throw them into a stewpan containing boiling water and
a handful of salt, and boil them briskly until they become tender:
they must be drained in a colander, then immersed in cold water for
five minutes, and drained upon a napkin to absorb all the moisture.
Next, put a gravy-spoonful of Bechamel or Supreme sauce into a stew-
pan with four ounces of fresh butter, a table-spoonful of chopped and
parboiled parsley, a very little nutmeg, mignionette-pepper, salt and
the juice of half a lemon; stir these well together over the stove-fire,
aud when perfectly mixed throw in the beans, and toss the whole
together over the fire until quite hot; then dish them up with a
border of crdutons round them and serve.
1172. FRENCH-BEANS, WITH FINE HERBS.
Bon. the beans as directed in the foregoing case. Put two pats of
fresh butter into a stewpan with a table-spoonful of chopped and
parboiled parsley, and two shalots also chopped, a little nutmeg,
mignionette-pepper and salt, and the juice of a lemon; simmer this
over a stove-fire until melted, and then throw the beans in, toss the
whole together, and dish them up with crdutons round them.
1173. BROAD-BEANS, A LA CREME.
Foa this purpose the beans must be young. Boil them in water,
with a faggot of parsley and some salt; when done, drain them in a
colander, put thera into a stewpan with four ounces of fresh butter,
some chopped parsley, and as much chopped winter-savory as will
cover the tip of a spoon, with pepper, salt and nutmeg; toss the
beans over the fire for five minutes, and then incorporate with them
a leason of four yolks of eggs and the juice of half a lemon; when
the leason has become set in the beans, dish them up with fieurous
round them and serve.
1174. GREEN PEAS, PLAIN.
Put the peas into boiling water with some salt and a bunch of
greeu mint; keep them boiling briskly for about twenty minutes, and


390 ENTREMETS OF VEGETABLES.
when done, drain them in a colander, dish them up with chopped
boiled mint on the top, and send some small pats of very fresh butter
separately on a plate.
1175. STEWED PEAS.
Put a quart of young peas into a pan, with four ounces of butter
and plenty of cold water; rub the peas and butter together with the
fingers, until well mixed, then pour off the water, and put the peas
into a stewpan, with a couple of cabbage-lettuces shred small, a faggot
of green-onions and parsley, a desert-spoonful of pounded sugar, and
a little salt; put the lid on, and set the peas to stew very gently over
a slow fire for about half an hour; when done, if there appears to bo
much liquor, boil it down quickly over the fire. Next put about two
ounces of fresh butter on a plate, with a dessert-spoonful of flour, and
knead them together; put this into the peas, and toss the whole
together over the stove-fire until well mixed; dish the peas up, gar-
nish round with Jleurons, and serve.
1176. PEAS, A LA FRANCAISE.
These must be prepared as above (No. 1175), omitting the lettuces;
stew them in the same manner, and when doiie, add a little light
colored glaze, and finish with four ounces of kneaded butter and
flour, with a little more sugar than in the foregoing case.
1177. TURNIPS, GLACES WITH SUGAR.
Turn about two dozen pieces of turnips into the form of rings,
about two inches in diameter, or else in the shape of small pears;
put them into a deep sautapan, thickly spread with fresh butter, and
strewn with about two ounces of pounded sugar; moisten with about
half a pint of good consomme, and set the turnips to simmer very gently
over a moderate stove-fire for about forty minutes; when they are
nearly done, remove the lid, and place them over a brisk fire to boil
the moisture down to glaze, gently rolling the turnips in this, with
great care, to avoid breaking them. They must then be dished up in
neat order, and the glaze poured over them.
1178. YOUNG CARROTS, A LALLEMANDE.
Turn two bunches of spring carrots, keeping their original shape
but making them equal in size; parboil them in water with a little
salt for about ten minutes; then drain them into a colander, and
immerse them in cold water, afterward drain them again, and lay
them upon a napkin. Next place the carrots in a deep sautapan
with two ounces of fresh butter, an equal proportion of loaf sugar,
and about a pint of good consommi; put the lid on, and set the carrots
to boil very gently over a moderate stove-fire for about half an hour;
then set them to boil briskly until their liquor is reduced to glaze,
when they must be gently rolled in this, and dished up in a round-
bottomed quart basin, so as to form a perfect dome when turned out
upon the dish; pour round some Allemande sauce (No. 7) mixed with
some chopped and parboiled parsley, also the remainder of their glaze
over the carrots, and serve.


CUCUMBERS, ETC. 391
1179. VEGETABLE-MARROW.
Cut the vegetable-marrows, according to their size, into foair, six, or
eight pieces, jnst as oranges are divided; peel, and trim them neatly,
place them in a deep sautapan thickly spread with butter, and season
with a very little nutmeg, mignionette-pepper, salt, and a tea-spoonful
of pounded sugar; moisten with half a pint of white broth, and set
them to boil gently over a stove-fire for about ten minutes; then boil
them down in their glaze; toss them gently in this, and dish them up
neatly in a conical form. Pour a little Espagnole sauce into the
sautapan, and simmer it with the remainder of the glaze; mix in a pat
of butter and the juice of half a lemon, pour this over the vegetable-
marrow, and serve.
1180. ANOTHER METHOD.
Trim the vegetable-marrows as above, boil them gently in water
with a pat of butter and a little salt, drain and dish them up, pour
some white sauce (No. 71) or Bechamel (No. 5) over them, and serve.
1181. CUCUMBERS, A LA POULETTE.
Cut the cucumbers into scollops about an inch in diameter, put them
into a basin with a table-spoonful of salt, and twice that proportion of
vinegar, and allow them to steep in this for several hours. Then, pour
off all the moisture from the cucumbers, and put them into a stewpan
with two ounces of fresh butter, a very little grated nutmeg, and a des-
sert-spoonful of pounded sugar, and set them to simmer very gently
over a slow fire until they become quite tender; this will require about
half an hour. The butter must then be poured off, and a gravy-spoon-
ful of Veloute sauce (No. 4) added; simmer the cucumbers over the
fire for a few minutes, finish by incorporating with them a leason of
four yolks of eggs, mixed with half a gill of cream, a spoonful of chop-
ped and parboiled parsley, and the juice of half a lemon; dish them up
with a border of jieurons, and serve.
1182. CUCUMBERS, A L'ESPAGNOLE.
Cut the cucumbers into lengths of about two inches, scoop out all
the seeds, pare off the skins, and trim them round and smooth at the
ends; parboil them in water and salt for five minutes, and then drain
them upon a napkin. Fill each piece of cucumber with some quenelle
force-meat of chicken (No. 242); then, place them in neat order in a
deep sautapan, lined with thin layers of fat bacon, and cover them also
with the same; moisten with consomme, and set them to simmer very
gently over a slow fire for about half an hour; when they are become
quite tender, drain them upon a cloth, dish them up in a pyramidal
form, pour some bright Espagnole sauce (No. 3) over them, and serve.
1183. JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES, A LA SAUCE,
Wash them thoroughly in plenty of water, peel or turn them in the
form of large olives or small pears; boil them in water with a pat of
butter and a little salt, for about a quarter of an hour; when done,
drain them upon a cloth, dish them up neatly, pour some butter sauce
(No. 71) over them, and serve.


392 ENTREMETS OF VEGETABLES.
1184. JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES, A L'ITALIENNE.
Then the artichokes into any fancy shape, place them in circular
order in a deep saatapan thickly spread with butter; season with mig-
nionette-pepper, nutmeg, salt, and lemon-juice; moisten with a little
consommi, put the lid on, set them to simmer very gently over a slow
fire for about half an hour,—during which time they will, if properly
attended to, acquire a deep-yellow color. Boil them up in their glaze,
dish them up, pour some Italian sauce (No. 12) round them, and serve.
1185. WHITE HARICOT-BEANS, A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL
These are seldom to be met with in England, except in a dried state;
wnen procurable, they should be treated in the following manner:—
Put a large stewpan, half filled with water, on the stove-fire to boil;
then throw in the beans, with a pat of butter and a little salt, and allow
them to boil until they are become quite tender; drain them in a co-
lander; then put them into a stewpan with about 6 oz. of fresh butter,
a little pepper and salt, some chopped parsley, and lemon-juice; toss
them whole well together over a stove-fire, until well mixed; then dish
them up with croutons ronnd them, and serve.
Note.—When the haricot-beans are in a dried state, they should be
steeped in cold water for six hours at least, previously to their being
dressed for the table, and must be boiled in cold water; in all other
respects, finish them in the above manner.
1186. WHITE HARICOT-BEANS, A LA BRETONNE.
Boil the haricot-beans as directed above, and when done, drain them
in a colander, put them into a stewpan with some Bretonne sauce (No.
27), and set them to simmer over the stove-fire for five minutes; toss
them together, and dish them up as the above.
1187. AMERICAN YAMS, A LA FRANCAISE.
Cut the yams into slices about half an inch thick, trim them into
rather large oval-shaped scollops, and throw them into a panful of
water; wash and drain them upon a cloth, then place them in circular
order in a deep sautapan, thickly spread with 4 oz. of fresh butter, and
season with a little grated nutmeg and salt; moisten with a pint of
broth or warer, put the lid on, and set them to simmer gently over a
slow fire for about three-quarters of an hour, taking care to turn them
over, in order that they may acquire a bright-yellow glazed color on
both sides; dish them up in close circular order, piled up in rows;
pour the following sauce under them and serve :—Knead two pats of
fresh butter with a dessert-spoonful of flour, put it into a stewpan with
a gill of cream, a spoonful of pounded sugar, a very little salt, and a
tea-spoonful of orange-flower water; stir this over the fire until it
thickens, and then use it as directed.
1188. POTATOES, A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL.
The small French kidney, or FiiVWoWe-potatoes, are best adapted for
this purpose; boil or steam them in the ordinary way, and when done,
cut them into slices about the eighth of an inch thick, put them into


POTATOES, ETC.
393
a stewpan with a ragout- spoonful of white sance or broth, 4oz. of butter,
some pepper and salt, chopped parsley, and lemon-juice; toss "them over
the stove-fire until the butter, &c, is mixed in with the potatoes, then,
dish them up with crdutons; round them, and serve.
1189. NEW POTATOES, A LA CBEME.
Cut some recently-boiled new potatoes in slices, put them into a stew-
pan with a gill of cream, 4oz. of fresh butter, a very little nutmeg,
pepper and salt, and the juice of half a lemon; set them to boil on the
stove-fire, toss them well together, and dish them up with croutons.
1190. POTATOES, A LA CBEME, AU GBATIN.
Cut some boiled potatoes in slices, about an inch in diameter, pre-
pare the same kind of mixture as directed for cauliflowers au gratin
(No. 1159): stick some neatly-cut pointed crdutons of fried bread
round the bottom of the dish, in the form of a'coronet; place a close
circular row of the slices of potatoes within this border of crdutons;
spread a layer of the mixture over them: then, repeat the row of
potatoes and the mixture until the dish is complete. Smooth the top
over with some of the sauce, shake some fried bread-crumbs and grated
Parmesan cheese over the surface, so as entirely to cover it: put the
potatoes in the oven for about tweuty minutes, to be warmed through,
and serve.
1191. SEAKALE, A LA SAUCE
Trs the seakale up in small bundles, and put it in boiling water with
a little salt: about twenty minutes will suffice to boil it tender: drain
and dish it up on a piece of toast, and send some butter sauce (No. 71)
separately in a boat.
Note.—Seakale may also be served with Espagnole or Bechamel
Bauce, in which case it must be placed in the dish, and the Bechamel
or Espagnole sauce poured over it: if the latter, a pat of butter and
a little lemon-juice should be first worked in with it.
1192. BBUSSELS-SPBOUTS.
Boil the sprouts green, put them into a stewpan with 4oz. of fresh
butter, some mignionette-peppcr, nutmeg, salt, and lemon-juice, and a
rago ut-spoonial of Veloule sauce (No. 4) ; toss the whole well together
over a stove-fire until the butter is incorporated with them; then, dish
them up with a border of Jleurons, and serve. (


394
ENTREMETS OF EGGS, ETC.,
COMPRISING
Eggs, d la Tripe.
„ au gratin.
„ Brouillti wiili Truffles, Ac.
Omelet, with Fine-herbs.
„ with Shalota.
„ with Paruie.*an Cheese.
„ with Kidneys.
„ with Oysters.
Poached Eggs, with Anchovy Tout.
„ with Hum. ,
Eggs, d la Dauphine.
,, I'Awore.
„ with Nutbrown Butter.
Eggs, d la Suit»e.
Maccaroni, d I ' Italiinne.
„ with Cream.
„ au gratin.
„ d la Florentine.
Nouillet, A la Palerme.
„ d la Vanille.
Indian Sandwiches.
Anchovy Sandwiches.
Italian Salad.
Russian Snlad.
German Salad.
Nouklet, or Niochi, d la Viinnoiee.
1193. EGGS, A LA TRIPE.
Boil eight eggs hard, immerse them in cold water for three minutes,
take off the shells, cut them in rather thick slices, and put these into a
■tewpan. Next, cut three small onions in slices, separating the folds
in rings; these must be first parboiled in water, and then after being
boiled in white broth, should be drained on a sieve and placed with the
eggs; add two ra^oMi-spoonfuls of good BUchamel sauce (No. 5), as
much garlic as can be held on the point of a knife, a pinch of mig-
nionette pepper, a little nutmeg, and the juice of a lemon: toss the
whole together over the stove-fire, and when the eggs are quite hot,
dish them up in a conical form; garnish round with croutons or Jleu-
rons, and serve.
1194. EGGS, AU GRATIN.
Bon. the eggs hard, and when done, take off the shells, cut them in
slices, and set them aside on a plate. Next, put a large ragout-spoon-
ful of white sauce into a stewpan to boil over the stove-fire, and when
it is sufficiently reduced, add two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, a
small pat of butter, a little nutmeg, mignionette-pepper, the yolks of
four eggs, and the juice of half a lemon; stir this quickly over the
stove until it begins to thicken, and then withdraw it from the fire.
Place the eggs in close circular rows in the dish, spread some of the
preparation in between each layer, observing that the whole must be
dished up in the form of a dome; smooth the surface over with the
remainder of the sauce, strew some fried bread-crumbs mixed with
grated Parmesan cheese over the top, put some fried crdutons of bread
or fieurons round the base, and set them in the oven to bake, or gral-
inale for about ten minutes, then send to table.
1195. EGGS, BROUILLES, WITH TRUFFLES.
Break eight new-laid eggs into a stewpan, to these add four ounces
of fresh butter, two ounces of truffles (cut up in very small dice, and
simmered in a little butter), a gill of cream, a small piece of glaze, a


OMELETS. 395
little nutmeg, mignionette-pepper, and salt; stir this quickly with a
wooden spoon over the stove-fire until the eggs, &c, begin to thicken,
when the stewpan must be withdrawn ; continue to work the eggs with
the spoon, observing, that although they must not be allowed to become
hard, as in that case the preparation would be curdled and rendered
unsightly, yet they must be sufficiently set, so as to be fit to be dished
up: to effect this it is necessary to stick the crdutons or Jieurons round
the inner circle of the dish with a little flower and white-of-egg paste;
dish up the eggs in the centre of these, and serve.
1196. OMELET, WITH FINE-HERBS.
Break six eggs in a basin, to these add half a gill of cream, a small
pat of butter broken in small pieces, a spoonful of chopped parsley,
some pepper and salt; then put four ounces of fresh butter in an
omelet-pan on the stove-fire; while the butter is melting, whip the
eggs, &c, well together until they become frothy; as soon as the butter
begins to fritter, pour the eggs into the pan, and stir the omelet, as the
eggs appear to set and become firm; when the whole has become par-
tially set, roll the omelet into the form of an oval cushion, allow it to
acquire a golden color on one side, oyer the fire, and then turn it out
on its dish; pour a little thin Espagnole sauce, or half-glaze under it,
and serve.
, 1197a. OMELET, WITH SHALOTS.
Prepare and finish this omelet, in all respects like the foregoing,
except that some chopped shalots must be added to the parsley.
11976. OMELET, WITH PARMESAN CHEESE.
Break six eggs into a basin, then add a gill of cream, four ounces
of grated Parmesan cheese, some niignionette-pepper and a little salt;
beat the whole well together, and finish the omelet as previously
directed.
1198. OMELET, WITH KIDNEYS.
First prepare the kidneys with fine herbs (No. 876); then, make
an omelet as directed for "Omelet with Fine-herbs" (No. 1196), and
when it is fried, before folding it up, place the prepared kidneys in it;
roll it up into shape, dish it up with a little half-glaze round the base,
and serve.
1199. OMELET, WITH OYSTERS.
Thib is made in the same manner as the foregoing, merely substituting
some oysters, prepared as for scollops (No. 538), for the kidneys.
1200. POACHED EGGS, WITH ANCHOVY TOAST.
First, break some new-laid eggs into separate small cups, or dariole
moulds; then, drop them one after the other into a stewpan containing
boiling water mixed with a table-spoonful of white vinegar, fcud a little
salt; keep this boiling while the eggs are being dropped in at the side
of the stewpan, and when they have boiled for two minutes, drain them
on a napkin, trim them and place each egg upon a square or oval piece
of dry toast, soread with anchovy butter (No. 179), over which have


maccaroni. 397
1205. EGGS, A LA SUISSE.
Spread the bottom of a silver dish with two ounces of fresh butter^
cover this with rather thin slices of fresh Gruyere cheese, break eight
whole eggs upon the cheese, without disturbing the yolks; season with
grated nutmeg, mignionette-pepper, and salt; poar a gill of double
cream on the surface, strew the top with about two ounces of grated
Gruyere cheese, and set the eggs in the oven to bake for about a quar-
ter of an hour: pass the hot salamander over the top, and serve with
strips of very thin dry toast separately on a plate.
1206. MACCARONI, A L'ITALIENNE.
Break up the maccaroni in three-inch lengths, and put it ou to boil
in hot water, with a pat of butter, a little mignionette-pepper and salt;
when done, drain it on a napkin, and as soon as the moisture is
absorbed, dish it up in the following manner:—First, put two large
rao-ou<-spoonfuls of good tomata sauce into a stewpan, and boil it over
the stove-fire; then add two pats of fresh butter with as much glaze,
and work the whole well together; next, strew a layer of the macca-
roni on the bottom of the dish, then pour some of the sauce over it,
and strew some grated Parmesan cheese over this: and so on, repeat-
ing the same until the dish is full enough; strew some grated cheese
over the top, put the maccaroni in the oven for five minutes, and then
serve while it is quite hot.
1207. MACCARONI, WITH CREAM.
Boil one pound of maccaroni, and when done, cut it up in three-
inch lengths, and put it into a stewpan, with four ounces of fresh
butter, four ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, and a similar quantity
of Gruyere cheese also grated, and a gill of good cream; leason with
mignionette-pepper and salt, and toss the whole well together over the
stove-fire until well mixed and quite hot, then shake it up for a few
minutes to make the cheese spin, so as to give it a fibrous appearance,
when drawn up with a fork. The maccaroni, when dished up, must be
garnished round the base with fieurons of pastry, and then served.
1208. MACCARONI, AU GRATIN.
Cut the maccaroni up as above, put it into a stewpan with three-
quarters of a pound of grated cheese (Parmesan and Gruyere in equal
quantities), four ounces of fresh butter, and a ragroui-spoonful of good
Bichamel sauce; season with mignionette-pepper and salt, toss the
whole together over the fire until well mixed, then pile it up in the
centre of a border of fried crdtttona of bread (previously stuck round
the bottom of the dish); strew the surface with fine bread-crumbs and
grated Parmesan cheese, in equal proportions; run a little melted but-
ter through the holes of a spoon, over the top of the maccaroni, and
then put it in the oven to be baked of a bright-yellow color: it should
then be served quite hot.
1209. TIMBALE OF MACCARONI, A LA FLORENTINE.
Decorate a plain mould with some nouilles paste (No. 1256), mixed
with a little sugar; then line the mould with some thin strips of fine
short paste (No. 1253), which must be placed exactly in the same


398 ENTREMETS OF EGGS.
manner as when lining a charlotte-mould with bread; fill the timbale
with flour, cover it in with some of the paste, and bake it for about
one hour; it must then be again emptied, and all the flour brushed out
with a paste-brush, put back into the mould, and kept in the screen
until wanted.
While the timbale is being made, parboil half a pound of Naples
maccaroni in water for a quarter of an hour, then-drain it on a sieve,
and afterwards put it into a stewpan with a pat of butter, a pint of
milk, and the same quantity of cream, four ounces of sugar, a stick of
vanilla, and a very little salt; then set the maccaroni to boil very
gently over a slow fire until it is thoroughly done—by which time the
maccaroni will have entirely absorbed the milk, &c, then add about
one ounce of grated Parmesan cheese; toss the whole well together
over the fire, remove the stick of vanilla, and fill the timbale with the
maccaroni; then turn it out of the mould on to its dish, shake over it
some finely-pounded sugar, glaze it with the hot salamander, and send
to table.
1210. NOUILLES, A LA PALERME.
Make three-quarters of a pound of nouilles (No. 1367), parboil
them in water with a pat of butter and a little salt for about ten
minutes; then drain them on a sieve, and afterwards put them in a
stewpan with a pint of chicken-broth, a pat of butter, a little grated
nutmeg, mignionette-pepper and salt; place a circular piece of buttered
paper on the top, put the lid on, and then set the nouilles over a slow
fire, to boil very gently until the whole of the broth has been absorbed.
Next, add a gill of cream, four ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, two
pals of butter, and a small piece of glaze; toss the whole well together
over the fire, and then pile them up in the centre of a border of croutons
previously stuck round the bottom of the dish; shake some vermi-
cellied yolks of eggs, and some grated Parmesan cheese over the surface,
put the entremets in the oven to be baked of a fine bright-yellow color,
and send to table.
1211. TIMBALE OF NOUILLES, A LA VANILLE.
Parroil the nouilles in water for ten minutes, then drain them on a
sieve, and afterward put them in a stewpan with a pint of cream, a
table-spoonful of pounded vanilla, a pat of butter, six ounces of sugar,
and a little salt; cover them with a circular piece of buttered paper,
and put on the lid; then set them on a slow fire to boil gently for about
three-quarters of an hour, by which time the cream will be absorbed by
the nouilles; add the yolks of six eggs, and mix the whole well
together. Next, spread a plain round oval mould with butter, roll
some nouilles ^aste out on the slab with the fingers, and use this for
the purpose of lining the mould with—coiled round as closely as possi-
ble, thus forming a kind of timbale; fill this with the prepared nouilles,
place it on a baking-sheet, and put it in the oven to be baked of a
fine light color; when it is done, turn the timbale out of the mould on
to its dish, shake some fine-sifted sugar over it, glaze it with the red-hot
salamander, and serve.
1212. INDIAN SANDWICHES.
Cut the breast of a roast fowl or pheasant in very small square,
dice-like pieces, and place these on a plate; take about four ounces of


ITALIAN SALAD. 399
red tongue or lean ham, and four anchovies (previously washed and
filleted), cut these also in small dice, and place them with the
chicken. Next, put two ragroui-spoonfuls of Veloute sauce, and a
dessert-spoonful of curry-paste into a stewpan, boil these over the
stove, stirring it meanwhile, until reduced to the consistency of a thick
sauce; then add the chicken, &c, and the juice of half a lemon, mix
the whole well together, and use this preparation in the following
manner:—
Cut some thin slices of the crumb of a sandwich-loaf, and with a
circular tin-cutter, about an inch and a half in diameter, stamp out two
dozen croutons; fry these in clarified butter to a bright-yellow color,
drain them on a napkin, and place one-half on a baking-sheet covered
with clean paper; spread a thick layer of the above preparation on
each of these, and then cover them with the regaining twelve croutons.
Next, grate four ounces of fresh Parmesan, and mix these with a pat
of butter into a paste, divide it in twelve parts, roll each into a round
ball, and place one of these on the top of each sandwich; about ten
minutes before sending to table, put them in the oven to be warmed
thoroughly, pass the red-hot salamander over them, to color them of a
bright yellow, dish them up on a napkin, and serve.
1213. ANCHOVY SANDWICHES.
Order a dozen very small round rolls, rasp them all over, cut off
the top, remove all the crumb, place them on a dish, and set them
aside. Next, chop four hard-boiled eggs very fine, and put this into
a small basin with a table-spoonful of chopped tarragon, chervil,
chives, and burnet; season with four table-spoonfuls of salad-oil, one
ditto of French-vinegar, pepper, and a little salt; mix the whole well
together, and use this preparation for filling the rolls with; then,
place some small fillets of anchovies (previously prepared) over the
sandwiches, at about one-eighth of an inch distant from each other,
and place another row of fillets across these at a similar distance.
Dish the sandwiches up on a napkin, in the form of a pryamid, and
serve.
1214. ITALIAN SALAD.
Boil two heads of fine white cauliflower, a similar portion of
asparagus-points, French-beans cut in diamonds, a few new potatoes,
(which after being boiled must be stamped out wrth a small vegetable
cutter), half a pint of green-peas, and three artichoke-bottoms, also
cut up in small fancy shapes when boiled. All these veegtables must
be prepared with great attention, in order that they may retain their
original color; the cauliflowers should be cut up in small buds or
flowerets, and the whole, when done, put into a convenient-sized basin.
Next, boil two large red beetroots, six large new potatoes, and
twenty large-sized heads of very green asparagus, or a similar quantity
of French-beans; cut the beetroot and potatoes in two-inch lengths,
and with a tin vegetable cutter, a quarter of an inch in diameter,
punch out about two dozen small pillar-shaped pieces of each, and
put these on a dish, with an equal quantity of asparagus heads or
French-beans, cut to the same length. Then, take a plain border-
mould, and place the green vegetables in neat and close order all round
the bottom of the mould; observing that a small quantity of aspic-


400 ENTREMETS OF EGGS.
jelly must be first poured in the mould, for the purpose of causing
the pieces of French-beans to hold together. Next, line the sides of
the mould, by placing the pieces of beetroot and potatoes alternately,
each of which must be first dipped in some bright aspic-jelly, pre-
viously to its being placed in the mould; when the whole is complete,
fill the border up with aspic-jelly.
Preparatory to placing the vegetables, the mould must be partially
immersed in some pounded rough ice, contained in a basin or pan.
When about to send this entremet to table, turn the vegetable bor-
der out of the mould on to its dish ; after the vegetables before alluded
to have been seasoned, by adding to them a ragrow^-spoonful of aspic-
jelly, three table-spoonfuls of oil, one of tarragon-vinegar, some pepper
and salt; and when the whole have been gently tossed together, they
should be neatly placed in the centre of the border, in a pyramidal
form. Ornament the base of the entremits with bold croutons of
bright aspic-jelly, and serve.
1215. RUSSIAN SALAD.
First, cut a lobster in neat thin scollops, and place them in a basin;
to these add some scolloped fillets of anchovies, about one pound of
thunny cut up into scollops, the tails of two dozen crayfish, a similar
quantity of prawns' tails, two dozen olive farcies and a good table-
spoonful of French capers; then add a sufficient quantity of red
Mayonnaise sauce (No. 99), to moisten these ingredients; mix the
whole together gently, and use this preparation to fill a border of
vegetables similar to that described in the foregoing article. Finish
the entremets in the same manner, and serve.
1216. GERMAN SALAD.
Remove the skin from the fillets of three Dntch herrings, cnt these
op into pieces an inch long and a quarter of an inch wide, and put
them into a basin; with a sharp knife shave some very thin slices from
one pound of Hambro' beef (previously parboiled in water for about
half an hour), and add them to the pieces of herrings; to these must
also be put two dozen turned olives, some white and red beetroot
(baked), cut or stamped ont in fancy shapes, in the proportion of one-
fourth part of the whole of the ingredients, two dozen crayfish-tails,
and some curled celery; then add sufficient Remoulade sauce (No. 95)
to moisten the whole, and use this preparation to fill a vegetable bor-
der as directed in the foregoing articles.
1217. NOUKLES, A LA VIENNOISE.
Put half a pint of consommi into a stewpan with four ounces of
outter, and a little pepper and salt; set this over the stove, and as
soon as it begins to simmer, throw in about six ounces of sifted flour
to thicken the preparation into a soft paste, and keep stirring this
over the fire for about three minutes, by which time the paste will
cease to adhere to the sides of the stewpan; add two whole eggs, and
four ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, and work the whole tho-
roughly together until well mixed, then add a gill of whipped cream
and another egg; mix these in with the paste, and mould it with two
tea-spoons into small quenelles; when this is done, place them in close


COLD ENTREES. 401
order on a stewpan-cover previously spread with butter, and when
about to poach them, they must be slipped off into some boiling con-
ef/mmi, after gently boiling for about ten minutes, drain them on a
sieve, and place them in a deep silver dish, or souffle-lining. Pour
sufficient thin bright Expagnole sauce over them to reach the surface,
sprinkle some grated Parmesan cheese over the top, and set the noukles
in the oven to simmer for about twenty minutes; just before sending
to table, pass the red-hot salamander over the surface to give them a
bright-yellow color, and serve.
Noukles are mostly served immediately after the fish, but are also
suited for the second course ; they may also be dressed with Allemande
sauce instead of Espaguole, when preferred.
COLD ENTREES FOR BALL SUPPERS, Ac,
COMPRISING
Aspic-Jelly. Potted Pheasants, <l la RoyaU.
Fricassee of Chickens, with Aspic- Jelly. Potted Fowl and Tongue.
Salmis of Partridges. „ Lobster.
iluyonnUc of Fillets of Soles, Ac, „ Prawns or Shrimps,
,, of Chickens. „ Yarmouth Bloaters.
Darne, or Slice of Salmon, d la MontpeUier. Galantine of Poulard, with Jelly.
Trout, <J la Vertpri. Boar's Head, with Aspic-Jelly.
Chicken Salad. Chickens, d la Belle. Cue.
Lobster Salad. Lamb Cutlets, d la Prineeue.
Tongue, with Aspic-Jelly. Fillets of Fowls, d la Victoria.
Ham, with ditto. Sandwiches, d la Rtgenee.
Aspic of Fowl, d la Reint. „ of Fillets of Soles, &a.
1218. ASPIC JELLY.
Take about thirty pounds of knuckle of fresh veal, wash the meat
in plenty of water, and put it into a stock-pot, with four hens, and
eighteen calves'-feet previously boned, and parboiled in water for ten
minntes; fill up the stock-pot with about four gallons of spring water,
and set it on a stove-fire to boil; as the scum rises to the surface, re-
move it with a skimmer, and keep pouring in small quantities of cold
water, to. check the boiling occasionally, so as to enable the albnmen
(which forms the white scum), when effectually dissolved by the heat
of the water to be thrown up in larger quantities than would be the
case if the process is hurried; otherwise the aspic so prepared would
be more difficult to clarify. The aspic, being well skimmed, should
then be garnished with four carrots, three large onions stuck with two
cloves each, four heads of celery, two cloves of garlic, a large faggot of
parsley and green onions, with two bay-leaves, and a large sprig of
thyme; four blades of mace, and a teaspoonful of pepper-corns. Next,
set the stock-pot down by the side of the stove-fire, to boil very gently
for about six hours; all the grease should then be carefully removed
from the top, and the aspic strained through a broth napkin into large
kitchen basins, and put away in the larder to cool. When the aspic
has become firm, scrape off the grease from the surface, and run a
25


402
COLD ENTREES.
little boiling water upon the top, to wash away any that remains,
throw this water off, and with a clean cloth absorb all the remaining
moisture. The aspic most now be put into a large stewpan, and set
to boil on a brisk stove-fire, and then removed to the side that it may
throw up its scum for ten minutes; this should be removed as it rises
and the aspic must afterward be allowed partially to cool, preparatory
to its being clarified ; for which purpose, put into a stewpan the whites
of six eggs, four whole eggs, about one pound of fresh veal, aa much
game or fowl, perfectly free from bone, sinew, or fat, and thoroughly
pounded in a mortar; to these add a bottle of French or Rhenish
white wine, and a little spring water; whisk the whole well together
until thoroughly mixed, then add this preparation to the aspic, and
continue whisking the whole together over a brisk stove-fire until the
eggs, &c, begin to coagulate; then immediately pour in the juice of
six lemons, mixed with a little spring water, and remove the aspic to
the side of the stove-fire; put the lid on the stewpan, place some live
embers of charcoal upon it, and leave it to simmer very gently for
about half an hour. Next, pour it into a flannel jelly-bag, prepared
in the usual way to receive it, and keep pouring the jelly through the
bag for a few minutes, when it will become perfectly bright, then
allow it to run into the basin until the whole has passed. Pour the
aspic into deep sautapans or stewpans, and set it in the larder to be-
come firm. Care should be taken throughout the process to avoid
putting any thing into the aspic that would be likely to prevent it
from becoming of a pale straw color: half may be colored of a
darker shade, by mixing in with it a few drops of caramel or brown-
ing.*
Previously to mixing the eggs, &c, with the aspic, a small quantity
should be put into a dariole-monld upon the ice to prove its strength;
as although it is necessary (especially during hot weather) that all
jellies should contain a large proportion of gelatine, yet, if this pre-
dominate, the jelly becomes very difficult to clarify.
1219. FRICASSEE OF CHICKENS, WITH ASPIC JELLY.
Prepare a fricassee of chickens, as directed in No. 968; keep the
pieces of chickens separate from the sauce, which must be rather
stiffly reduced, previously to incorporating the leason of eggs in it;
and when this has been done, add about one-third of its quantity of
aspic jelly; stir them together on the ice, and when well mixed, dip
the pieces of chicken in it, and dish them up as you proceed. The
entree should be raised in a conical form, and neatly masked with the
remainder of the sauce, so as to detach each piece of chicken in relief.
Place some fine cocks'-combs, white button-mushrooms, and glazed
truffles in the cavities; surmount the whole with a large truffle, in
which a large white cock's-comb has been inserted, garnish the base
with some chopped jelly, rolled with the blade of a knife in the form
of a thick cord, and place a border of angular oi fancy-shaped crdulona
of bright aspic jelly round this.
* This is made by baking soine sugar in a small copper pan, and allowing it to boil
down very gradually over a slow fire, until it becomes a very dark brown in color; soma
eold water must then be added to melt the caramel, and after it has boiled up it should
be kept in a small bottle for use.


MAYONAISE OF CHICKENS. 403

1220. SALMIS OF PARTRIDGES, WITH ASPIC JELLY.
Prepare the salmis as directed
in No. 1078, keep the pieces of
partridges separate from the sauce,
which, when partially cold, must
be mixed with one-third of its
quantity of aspic jelly, and gently
stirred on the ice, until it assumes
sufficient body to admit of its being
osed for masking the pieces of
partridges with: these must be
raised on their dish in a pyramidal
form; pour the remainder of the
sauce over the entree, which should
be garnished in the same manner as
the foregoing.
Note.—Salmis of pheasants, woodcocks, quails, <fec, are prepared
for ball-suppers, and similar entertainments, in the same way as
partridges.
1221. MAYONAISE OF FILLETS OF SOLES, ETC.
Trim the fillets of the three soles, simmer them in a sautapan with
2 oz. of butter, pepper, salt, and lemon-juice; when done, put them in
press between eartheu dishes, and as soon as they are cold, divide each
fillet into three scollops, trim the ends round, put them into a basin
with a little oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt, and let them steep in this.
Next, prepare an aspic border-mould, in the following manner:—
Pound some rough ice fine, and put it into a deep pan; imbed the
mould partially in this, pour a small quantity of aspic-jelly jn the bot-
tom of the mould, to the depth of about the eighth of an inch, and
upon this place a decoration, made as follows :—Cut some black truffles
and boiled white of eggs, in very thin slices; stamp these out into the
form of rings, diamonds, leaves, &c, and arrange them with taste
on the surface of the jelly; when this is complete, the decoration must
be covered in with a spoonful of aspic jelly, poured over with great
care, so as not to disturb it: as soon as this has become set, fill the
mould up with aspic, and when that also has become set, turn the bor-
der out of the mould on its dish. Fill the centre with the fillets of
soles (previously drained upon a napkin), neatly piled up in a conical
form, pour some green Mayonaise sauce (No. 98) over them, garnish
the base of the fillets with a neat border of trimmed prawn's-tails, and
crown the Mayonaise with the white-heart of a cabbage-lettuce, stuck
into half an egg, boiled hard.
Note.—Fillets of turbot, salmon, trout, mackerel, or gurnets, maybe
treated as the above; the sauce can be varied according to Nos. 97 and
99, and may also be garnished round the base of the fillets, either with
plover's-eggs cut, crayfish-tails, or quarters of the white-hearts of cab-
bage-lettuces. Some shred lettuce, seasoned with oil, vinegar, pepper,
and salt, may first be placed at the bottom of the aspic-border, to pile
the fillets upon.


404
COLD ENTREES.
1222. maYonaise of chickens.
Boast two chickens, and when cold, cut them up into small joints;
remove the skin, trim them neatly,
and steep them in a basin with
oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt. Pre-
pare a decorated aspic-border, as
directed in the preceding article;
when this has been turned out on
its dish, pile up the pieces of
chickens in the centre upon some
shred lettuces in a conical form;
mask them with some white May-
onaise sauce (No. 97), garnish with
lettuce-hearts and quarters of egg
boiled hard, or with plover's-eggs;
crown the Mayonaise with some
chopped aspic or a crouton of
jelly.


1223. DARNE, OR SLICE OF SALMON, A LA MONTFELLIER.
Procure a prime cut (four inches thick) from an unsplit salmon of
good size ; slip the blade of a sharp
knife under the skin, and detach this
without removing it; fill out the
vent with a piece of carrot covered
with fat bacon; wrap the slice of
salmon in layers of fat bacon, and
tie them on with string. Place the
fish on its drainer in a stewpan,
moisten with some mirepoix (No.
236), and set it to boil very gently
over a moderate fire for about
three-quarters of an hour; then
remove it, and allow the fish to remain in its own liquor until it is
nearly cold; drain it upon an earthen dish, and set it aside to become
firm. The dame must then be freed from its skin, &c, trimmed, and
lightly masked over with glaze mixed with some lobster-coral. Cut
out a round or oval piece of crnmb of bread, about the size of the
salmon, and an inch thick, and fry it of a light color; spread this all
over with some Moutpellier butter (No. 183), smooth the surface with
a knife dipped in warm water, and put it on the bottom of the dish in-
tended to receive the salmon. Next place the dame of salmon upon this,
and spread the upper part with rather a thin coating of the Montpel-
lier butter, which, after being smoothed over, must be decorated with
a bold wreath of roses or laurels, composed of black truffles. Ornament
the entree with aspic-jelly, by placing fancy-shaped croutons of this
round the base.
1224. TROUT, A LA VERTPRE.
Boil three small trout in some mirepoix (No. 236), and when cold,
remove the skins; spread them over completely with a thin coating


LOBSTER SALAD.
405

of Hontpellier butter (No. 183),
and mark out the mouth, gills, and
the eyes, with some narrow strips
of black truffles ;' then, cut some
of these into thin slices, and after-
wards stamp them out with a cir-
cular tin-cutter, in the form of
half-moons, and proceed so to ar-
range them upon the trout, as to
imitate fish' scales. Prepare a
foundation of fried bread, covered
with Montpellier batter, as directed
in the preceding case; place it on
the dish, arrange the trout upon it
in a row, and ornament them with
a rich border of aspic croutons.
1225. CHICKEN SALAD.
Prepare the chickens as directed for a Mayonaise (No. 1222. Pila
the pieces of chicken up in the dish, upon a bed of seasoned shred
lettuces, in a conical form ; pour some while Mayonaise sauce (No. 91)
over the pieces, place a border of hard eggs cut in quarters, and hearts
of cabbage-lettuces round the base; stick a white heart of a lettuce on
the top,' and serve.
Note.—Chicken-salads may also be ornamented and garnished with
plover's-eggs, decorated with truffles; and with eggs boiled hard, cut
irrquarters, and ornamented either wjth thin fillets of anchovies and
capers, or colored butter, either lobster coral (No. 182), or green Ravi'
gotle (No. 185), or with tarragon or chervil-leaves, laid flat on the
eggs, or else stuck in the point.
1226. LOBSTER SALAD.
Break the shells, and remove
the meat whole from the tails and
claws of the lobsters; put this into
a basin, with a little oil, vinegar,
oepper and salt, and reserve the
pith and coral to make some lob-
ster-butter (No. 182), which is to
be thus used :—First, spread a cir-
cular foundation of the lobster-
batter upon the bottom of the
dish, about seven inches in dia-
meter, and the fourth part of an
inch thick; then, scoop out the
centre, leaving a circular band.
Drain the lobster on a cloth, cut
the pieces in oval scollops, and
with some of the butter (to stick
the pieces firmly together), pile the
lobster up in three successive rows,
the centre being left hollow; fill this with shred lettuce, or salad of


406
COLD ENTREES.
any kind, seasoned with oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt; pour some
scarlet Remoulade (No. 95) or Mayonaise sauce (No. 100) over the
salad, without masking the pieces of lobster; garnish the base with a
border of hearts of lettuces, divided in halves, and around these place
a border of plover's-eggs, having a small sprig of green tarragon stuck
into the pointed end of each; place a white-heart of lettuce on the
top, and serve.
1227. TONGUE, WITH ASPIC-JELLY.
Rdn an iron skewer through the root of a pickled tongue; tie some
string round the point of the skewer, and fasten it at the other end,
thus giving to the tongue the form of an arch. Boil the tongue for
about three hours; when done, immerse it in cold water, and pull off
the outer skin. Then, truss the tongue afresh, in the form of an arch,
put it in press, sideways, between two dishes, and when cold, trim it
smooth; or with a small sharp knife, carve the surface, so as to repre-
sent leaves and flowers; glaze it over brightly, and place it upon its
dish. Finally, garnish and ornament the tongue with aspic-jelly (No.
1218), and serve.
1228. HAM, WITH ASPIC-JELLY.

Braize a ham as directed in (No. 646), trim and glaze it accordingly,
dish it up, and garnish with aspic-jelly, according to the design repre-
sented in the above wood-cut.
1229. ASPIC OF FOWL, A La REINE.
Roast off two fowls, and use them to make some purie d la Eeine
(No. 779); mix this with a ragout-
spoonful of good Bechamel sauce
(No. 5), and about one-third part
of strong aspic-jelly (No. 1218),
and work the whole well together
in a stewpan upon some rough ice.
While this is going on, a plain
round or oval mould should be
decorated with black truffles and
red tonge, in the following man-
ner :—First, place the mould upon
some pounded rough ice, quite
straight; then, pour about a table-
spoonful of bright aspic-jelley over
the bottom, and when this nan oecome set, place ou it a bold decora-


POTTED GAME AND SHELLFISH. 40 7
tion, formed with leaves, rings, dots, crescents, &c, cut out of truffles
and tongue, and arranged so as to represent a circular wreath, with a
star or scroll in the centre. Decorate the sides of the mould in the
same manner, dipping each piece of the decoration in a little melted
aspic-jelly, to make it adhere to the mould; when the decoration is
completed, fill the mould up with the prepared puree, and imbed the
mouldiii ice to set the aspic When it has become quite firm, dip the
mould in tepid water for a few seconds, instantly withdraw it, wipe it
with a clean cloth, and turn it out upon its dish. Garnish the aspic
round with a roll of chopped aspic-jelly, place some croutons round
the base, and serve.
Note.—The above may be made also with pheasant, partridge, or
any other kind of game.
1230. POTTED PHEASANTS, A LA ROYALE.
Truss a pheasant as for boiling, and braize it with 1 lb. of ham, in
some well-seasoned wine mirepoix (No. 236); when done, drain them
upon a dish, strain their liquor into a stewpan, and when divested of
all the grease, boil it down to glaze. Meanwhile, chop and pound all
the meat from the pheasant with the ham, and add to these 6 oz. of
clarified fresh butter, a ragrouZ-spoonful of good sauce, and the glaze;
season with Cayenne pepper, a little nutmeg and salt, pound the whole
thoroughly, and rub this preparation through a fine wire-sieve on to a
dish. Next, fill some small round or oval earthenware potting pans
with this preparation, smooth the surface over with a spoon dipped in
water, place them in a covered stewpan, and submit them to the
action of steam for about half an hour. The potted pheasant must
then be allowed to cool; then, with the bowl of a spoon, press down
the meat in the pots, wipe them clean, and run a little clarified fresh
butter over the surface.
Note.—All kinds of game should be potted in the above manner,
and will then keep fresh-flavored for mouths. For those who ap-
prove of it, more spice and aromatic herbs may be added; but it
should be observed, that an immoderate use of these impairs the
flavor of the game.
1231. POTTED FOWL AND TONGUE.
Park off all the meat from a roast fowl, chop and pound it
thoroughly with about one pound of boiled red tongue or dressed ham;
add six ounces of clarified fresh butter, three ounces of good glaze
(made with the bones of the fowl), and a gravy-spoonful of good
Bechamel sauce (No. 5); season with Cayenne pepper, nutmeg, and
salt; and when the whole has been thoroughly mixed by pounding,
rub the produce through a fine wire-sieve, and then finish this a•
directed for the potted pheasant.
1232. POTTED LOBSTER.
Lorsters for potting must be quite fresh. Take the meat, pith,
and coral out of the shells; cut this up in slices, and put the whole
into a stewpan with one-third part of clarified fresh butter, and to
every pound of lobster, add four whole anchovies (washed and wiped
dry); season with mace, pepper-corns, and a little salt, then put the
lid on the stewpan, and set the lobster to simmer very geutly over a


408 COLD ENTREES.
slow fire for about a quarter of an hour. After this, it mast be
thoroughly pounded in a mortar, rubbed through a sieve, put into small
pots, steamed, and when cold, should be pressed down with the bowl
of a spoon, and the surface covered with a little clarified butter.
1233. POTTED PRAWNS, OR SHRIMPS.
Pick one pound of fresh-boiled prawns or shrimps, and reserve the
heads and shells; pound them in a mortar with four anchovies (pre-
viously washed and wiped dry for the purpose), and then rub the
whole through a hair-sieve, and put the produce, with the picked
shrimps, into a stewpan with six ounces of clarified fresh butter;
season with some grated nutmeg, Cayenne pepper, and a little salt;
simmer the whole together over a slow fire for about ten minutes,
then toss the shrimps in the seasoning occasionally, until they be-
come nearly cold; they must then be put into pots, with a little
clarified butter poured over the surface, and set aside in a cool place,
for use.
1234. POTTED YARMOUTH BLOATERS.
Take six fresh-cured bloaters, immerse them in scalding water, and
remove the skins; wipe them dry, take out the bones, and put the
fillets of the herrings into a stewpan with half a pound of clarified
fresh butter, a blade of mace, and enough cayenne to season them; set
this on a slow fire to simmer for abont ten minutes, then thoroughly
pound the whole well together in a mortar, and rub it through a sieve.
Put this preparation into pots, run a little clarified butter over the sur-
face, and keep them in a cool place for use.
Note.—Smoked, or kippered salmon, or Finnan haddocks, may be
potted in the same way as the foregoing. By submitting any of the
above described potted shell-fish, &c, to the action of steam, a suffi-
cient time for the meat to be thoroughly penetrated by the heat, they
may keep good for months. Much will, however, depend on the fresh-
ness of the butter used in this preparation; should it become rancid,
as frequently happens after keeping for a few weeks, it will, of course,
considerably impair the flavor of the potted fish.
1235. GALANTINE OF POULARD, WITH ASPIC-JELLY.
Chop up one pound of white veal, with the same quantity of fat
bacon, and season with chopped mushrooms, parsley, nutmeg, pepper,
salt, and aromatic seasoning (No. 1250); when these are chopped quite
fine, pound the whole in a mortar, with the yolks of three eggs, and
remove the force-meat into a basin. Peel one pound of truffles, and
cut up a boiled red tongue, and about one pound of fat bacon or boiled
calf's udder, into long narrow fillets, about a quarter of an inch sqaare.
Next, bone u fine poulard, and draw the skin from the legs and pinions,
inside; then, spread the poulards out upon a napkin, and with a sharp
knife, pare off some part of the fillets, to cover the thinner parts of
the skin ; season slightly with pepper, salt, and aromatic spices; spread
a layer of the prepared force-meat, about an inch thick, then place the
fillets of tongue and bacon upon this, about an inch apart, and insert
rows of truffles between these; after which, spread another layer of
force-meat over the whole, then repeat the tongue and truffles, and so
on, until a sufficient quantity of both has been placed in the poulard.


41C
COLD ENTREES.

spread the head out upon a large earthenware dish, and rub it with the
following ingredients :—Six pounds of salt, four ounces of saltpetre, six
ounces of moist sugar, cloves, mace, half an ounce of juniper berries,
four cloves of garlic, six bay-leaves, a handful of thyme, marjoram, and
basil. When the head has been well rubbed with these, pour about a
quart of port-wine lees over it and keep in a cool place for a fortnight,
observing that it must be turned over in its brine every day during that
period.
When about to dress the head, take it out of the brine, and wash it
thoroughly in cold water; then absorb all the exterior moisture from
it with a clean cloth, and spread it out upon the table. Next pare
off all the uneven pieces from the cheeks, &c, cut these into long
narrow fillets, and put them with the tongue, fat bacon, and truffles,
prepared as directed for the galantine; then, line the inside of the
.head with a layer of force-meat (the same kind as used for galantines)
about an inch thick, and lay thereon the fillets of tongue, baco,n,
truffles, and here and there some pistachio kernels (the skin of which
must be removed by scalding); cover these with a layer of force-meat,
and then repeat the rows of tongue, &c, and when the head is suffi-
ciently garnished to fill it out in its shape, it should be sewn up with a
small trussing-needle and twine, so as thoroughly to secure the stuff-
ing. The head must then be wrapped up in a strong cloth, previously
well spread with butter, and sewn up in this, so as to preserve its
original form; it should next be put into a large oval braiziug-pan,
covered with any carcasses of game (especially of grouse, from its con-
genial flavor), or any trimmings of meat there may be at hand, and
also four cow-heels, or six calves' feet; then moisten with a copious
wine mirepoix (No. 236), in sufficient quantity to cover the surface of
the head. Set the brazier on the stove-fire; as soon as it boils, skim
it thoroughly, then remove it to a slow fire (covered with the lid con-
taining live embers), that the head may continue to simmer or boil
very gently, for about five hours; as soon as it appears to be nearly
done, remove the braizier from the fire, and when the heat of the broth
has somewhat subsided, let the head be taken up on a large dish; if
it appears to have shrunk considerably in the wrapper, this must be
carefully tightened, so as to preserve its shape: it should then be put
back into its braize, there to remain, until the whole has become set


LAMBS CUTLETS, AND FILLETS OF FOWL. 411
firm by cooling. The head must then be taUen out of the braize or
stock, and put in the oven, upon a deep baking dish, for a few minutes,
just to melt the jelly which may adhere to the wrapper; it must then,
be taken out quickly, and the wrapper carefully removed, after which,
glaze the head with some dark-colored glaze; place it on its dish,
ornament it with aspic-jelly, and serve.
Note.—On the Continent it is usual to decorate boars' heads with
colored»gum-paste, and sometimes with natural flowers: the latter
produce a very pretty effect, when arranged with taste; the former
method is objectionable, from the liability of the gum-paste to give
way, and run dowu the sides of the head: it has, moreover, a vulgar
and gaudy look.
1237. CHICKENS, A LA BELLE VUE.
Truss two chickens or fowls for broiling, and braize them in white
broth in the usual manner; when done, set them to cool, and mask
them completely with some reduced Bechamel sauce (No. 5), in which
should be mixed a fourth part of aspic-jelly. Previously to saucing
the chickens, the Bechamel thus prepared must be stirred in a stewpan
imbedded in rough ice, until it just begins to get firm; it should then
be immediately poured over the chickens; these should be decorated,
upou the breast with black truffles or red tongue, and placed upon
their dish with a trimmed and glazed tongue in the centre; ornament
them by placing a roll of chopped aspic-jelly round the base, then
outside this, some bold croutons of aspic-jelly, and serve.
1238. LAMB-CUTLETS, A LA PRINCESSE.
These must be prepared, in the first instance, in the same way as
cutlets of veal a la Dreux (No. 890): then braized, pressed and
trimmed. Next, cover the bottom of a sautapan with some bright
aspic-jelly, not quite a quarter of an inch deep; when this has become
set firm by cooling, place the cutlets flat upon it, in circular order, then
run a Httle aspic-jelly over them, just enough to cover them, and place
the sautapan in ice to set the jelly; as soon as this has become quite
firm, use a tin-cutter (in the form of a cutlet) dipped in hot water,
to stamp the cutlets out; dish them up in close circular order upon
a little aspic-jelly, placed on the bottom of the dish, to raise the
cutlets, and garnish the centre with a well-prepared Macedoine of
vegetables (No. 143), tossed in some bright aspic-jelly, instead of
sance; ornament the base with a border of bold croutons of jelly, and
serve.
1239. FILLETS OF FOWL, A LA VICTORIA.
Prepare the fillets of three young fowls as for a Supreme (No. 989);
when they have -been simmered, drain them upon a napkin, and put
them in press between two dishes; when cold, trim them neatly, dip
each fillet either in some Supreme (No. 58) or Bechamel (No. 5),
mixed with one-fourth part of aspic-jelly, place them with the
smoothest side uppermost in a dish or sautapan, and set them on
some rough ice. Next, cover the bottom of a large sautapan with
some bright aspic-jelly, to the depth of about the eighth of an inch;
when this has become firm, by cooling on the ice, place the fillets upon


412 COLD ENTREES.
it in circular order, and decorate the upper part of each with black
truffles; the fillets must then be covered with a little bright aspic-
jelly, to produce the same thickness upon the upper surface as the
under. While this is going on, a border of vegetables should be
prepared as follows: first cut some carrots and turnips with vege-
table cutters as for a chartreuse, and boil them separately in broth;
prepare also some French-beans or asparagus-heads and green-peas,
which, when boiled, must be used to ornament a border-mould in
exactly the same manner as a chartreuse: observing that each piece of
vegetable must be first dipped in some aspic-jelly, previously to its being
placed in the mould. When the mould is lined, the void left must be
filled up with some sort of vegetables cut smaller, and tossed in aspic-
jelly, seasoned with a little mignionette-pepper and salt, a very little
salad-oil and tarragon vinegar; it must then be imbedded in pounded
rough ice, until set quite firm. The border should now be turned
out upon its dish, and the fillets of fowls, previously stamped out
with a tin-cutter dipped in hot water, must be placed on the top of
the border, in close circular order, each one over-laying the other]
fill the centre of the entrie with a copious Macedoine of vegetables
(No. 143), tossed in a little glaze and aspic-jelly; garnish the base of
the entree with bold crdutons of jelly, and serve.
Or, when the border is dished up, fill the center with the Maci-
doine, and place the fillets, with the broad ends resting full on the top
of the border; thus causing the pointed ends to meet at the summit;
crown this with a bouquet of chopped jelly, insert a narrow slip of
red tongue, cut in the form of a cock's-comb, between each fillet, and
place an angular crduton of jelly so as apparently to support the
tongue: garnish the base with croutons of jelly, aud serve.
1240. SANDWICHES, A LA BEGENCE.
For this purpose, it is necessary to order one or more dozens of very
small round or oval rolls about the size of an egg; cut a small piece
off the top of each, about the circumference of half-a-crown piece, and
remove all the crumb from the inside. These rolls must then be
filled with the following preparation. First, shred the white meat
from the breast of a roast fowl, and put this in a basin; then shred
the fillets of six washed anchovies, and some red tongue or dressed
ham in equal proportion to the fowl, and place these with the latter;
add about one-sixth part of the whole, of Indian gherkins or mangoes,
also shred fine; season with a little chopped tarragon and chervil, add
sufficient Rimoulade sauce (No. 95) to moisten the whole, and use the
preparation as directed above. The rolls must then be covered with
the circular pieces reserved for the purpose, and dished up on a
napkin.
Note.—These sandwiches may also be prepared with lobster; in
which case, neither ham nor tongue should be used.
1241. SANDWICHES OF FILLETS OF SOLES.
Simmer, the fillets of soles in a sautapan with a little clarified but-
ter, pepper, salt and lemon juice; when done, put them in press be-
tween two dishes, and afterwards divide each fillet into four scollops;
trim, and put them into a basin with a little mignionette-pepper, salt,


414
COLD RAISED PIES AND PRESERVED GAME,
coxpRiarss
Veal and Ham Pie, or Timbale. Leicestershire Pork Pie.
Capon Pie. Eel Pie, A VAnglaite.
Pheasant Pie. Salmon Pie, d la Rune.
Yorkshire Pie Preserved Hare, and other Game.
Devonshire Sqnab Pie. Aromatic Spioes, for Seasoning.
1242. VEAL AND HAM PIE, OK TIMBALE*
First daube or interlard about three pounds of white veal (from
the leg) with lardoons or square strips of fat bacon or ham; cut this
in thick slices across the grain of the meat, and put them on a dish
with an equal quantity of dressed ham, cut also in thick slices. Next,
spread the inside of a plain mould with butter, and line it with short
puste (No. 1253), about a quarter of an inch thick; line the inside
of this with rather a thick layer of force-meat (No. 247), then place
the veal and ham in alternate layers, season between each with aro-
matic spices, pepper and salt, Gil up the hollow places and cover in
the surface with some of the force-meat; place some thin layers of fat
bacon over the whole, and cover in the top with some of the paste,
previously rolled out to the thickness of the eighth part of an inch;
this must be applied after the edges of the pie have been wetted with
a paste-brush dipped in water, and made fast by pressing both pieces
of paste together with the fore-finger and thumb, so as to cause them
to adhere closely together. The edges should then be neatly trimmed,
and pinched round with pastry-pincers; decorate the top of the tim-
bale with thin strips of paste, cut out in the form of leaves, &c,
arranged according to the upper part of the design represented in
No. 1244. Egg the surface over with a paste-brush, make a small
hole in the centre of the top of the pie, for the steam to escape, and
bake it in the oven for about three hours; when it is done, withdraw
it from the oven, and about twenty minutes afterwards, place the
point of a funnel in the hole at the top of the timbale, and through
this pour in about a piut of good, well-seasoned strong consommt,,
reduced to the consistency of half-glaze; stop up the hole with a
small piece of paste, and keep the timbale in a cool place until wanted
for use.
1243. CAPON PIE, WITH TBUFFLE3.
First, bone a capon, spread it out on the table, and season the
inside with prepared spices and a little salt; then spread a layer of
force-meat of fat livers (No. 247), and place upou this, in alternate
rows, some square fillets or strips of fat bacon, tongue, and truffles;
cover these with a layer of the force-meat, repeat the strips of bacon,
then fold both sides of the skin over each other, so as to give to the
capon a plump appearance, and set it aside on a dish.
* The difference between a raised pie and a timbale consists principally in the i
being raised (by hand or otherwise) with a stiff paste, while the latter is prepared in a>
mould, lined with a more delicate kind of short crust, which is made edible.


YORKSHIRE, OR CHRISTMAS PIE. 415
Next, pare off the sinewy skin from the mouse-piece, or inner part
of a leg: of veal, daube it with seasoned lardoons of fat bacon, then
place this, and an equal quantity of dressed ham, with the capon.
Prepare four pounds of hot-water paste (No. 1251); take two-thirds
of this, mould it into a round ball on the slab with the palm of the
hand, and then roll it out in the form of a band, about two feet long
and six inches wide; trim the edges, and pare the ends square, taking
care to cut them in a slanting direction; wet them with a paste-brush
dipped in water mixed /with a little flour, and wrap them over one
another neatly and firmly, so as to show the joint as little as possible.
Next, roll out half the remainder of the paste, either in a circular or
oval form, about a quarter of an inch thick, to the size the pie is
intended to be made; place this, with buttered paper, under it, on a
baking-sheet, wet it round the edge with a paste-brush dipped in
water, and stick a narrow band of the paste, about half an inch high,
all round it, to within about an inch of the edge; the wall or crust of
the pie is to be raised up round this, and by pressing on it with the
tips of the fingers, it should be made to adhere effectually to the
foundation. Then by pressing the upper part of the pie with the
fingers and thumbs of both hands, it will acquire a more elegant
appearance, somewhat resembling the curved lip of a vase. The base
must be spread out in proportion to the top, by pressing on it with
the thumb. The bottom and sides of the pie should now be lined
with a coating of force-meat of fat livers (No. 247), or, if preferred,
with veal and fat bacon, in equal proportions, well-seasoned, chopped
fine and pounded; next, place in the veal and ham, previously cut up
in thick slices and well-seasoned, and fill up the cavity with some of
the force-meat; then add the capon and cover it over, and round, with
the remainder of the force-meat, placing some truffles in with it, and
cover the whole with thin layers of fat bacon. Roll out the remainder
of the paste, and after wetting this, and the pie round the edges, use
it to cover in the pie, pressing the edges of both tightly with the
fingers and thumb, in order to make them adhere closely together;
trim the edge neatly and pinch it round with the pastry pincers. The
pie should then be egged over, and decorated, for which latter purpose
a similar kind of paste must be used, being first rolled out thin, then
cut out in the form of leaves, half-moons, rings, &c, and arranged
according to the designs contained in No. 249: or, if preferred,
a moulding raised from decorating boards with some of the paste may
be used instead. The pie must then be placed in the oven, and baked
for about four hours, and when done, should be withdrawn, and about
a pint of strongly-reduced consomme (made from the carcasses of the
capons, two calves' feet and the usual seasoning), should be introduced
within it through a funnel: it must then be kept in a cold place until
wanted for use; when the cover should be carefully removed without
breaking it, and after the top of the pie has been decorated with some
bright aspic-jelly, it may be put on again and sent to table.
Note.—For making pies of turkeys, fowls, pheasants, grouse, par-
tridges, &c, follow the above directions.
1244. YORKSHIRE, OR CHRISTMAS PIE.
First, bone a turkey, a goose, a brace of young pheasants, four
partridges, four woodcocks, a dozen snipes, four grouse, and four


416 COLD RAISED PIES.

widgeons; then boil and trim a small York ham and two tongnes.
1 garnish the inside of the fore-named game and poultry, as
directed in the foregoing
case, with long fillets of
fat bacon and tongne,
and French truffles; each
must be carefully sewn
up with a needle and small
twine, so as to prevent
the force-meat from escap-
ing while they are being
baked. When the whole
of these are ready, line
two rouud or oval braiz-
ing-pans with thin layers
of fat bacon, and after
the birds have been ar-
ranged therein in neat
order, and covered in with
layers of bacon and but-
tered paper, pnt the lids
on, and set them in the
oven to bake rather slowly,
for about fonr hours:
then withdraw them, and
allow them to cool.
While the foregoing is in progress, prepare some highly-seasoned
aspic-jelly with the carcasses of the game and poultry, to which add six
calves-feet, and the usual complement of vegetables, &c, and when
done, let it be clarified: one-half should be reduced previously to its
being poured into the pie when it is baked.
Make about sixteen pounds of hot-water paste (No. 1251), and use
it to raise a pie of sufficient dimensions to admit of its holding the
game and poultry prepared for the purpose, for making which follow
the directions contained in the foregoing article. The inside of the
pie must first be lined with thin layers of fat bacon, over which spread
a coating of well-seasoned force-meat of fat livers (No. 247); the birds
should then be placed in the following order:—First, put the goose at
the bottom with some of the small birds round it, filling up the cavi-
ties with some of the force-meat; then, pnt the turkey and the
pheasants with thick slices of the boiled ham between them, reserving
the woodcocks and widgeons, that these may be placed on the top:
fill the cavities with force-meat and truffles, and cover the whole with
thin' layers of fat bacon, run a little plain melted butter over th« sur-
face, cover the pie in the usual manner, and ornament it with a bold
design. The pie must now be baked, for about six hours, in an oven
moderately heated, and when taken out, and after the reduced aspic
above alluded to has been poured into it, stop the hole up with a small
piece of paste, and set it aside in the larder to become cold.
Note.—The quantity of game, &c, recommended to be used in the
preparation of the foregoing pie may appear extravagant enough, bat
it is to be remembered that these very large pies are mostly in


LEICESTERSHIRE PORK PIE. 417
at Christmas time. Their substantial aspect renders them worthy of
appearing on the side-table of those wealthy epicures who are wont to
keep up the good old English style, at this season of hospitality and
good cheer. t
1245. DEVONSHIRE SQUAB PIE.
First, make two pounds of short paste (No. 1253;, roll it up in a
clean cloth, and set it aside till wanted. Then, cut about two pounds
of griskin of pork in slices, season these with a little chopped onion,
sage and thyme, pepper and salt, and place them.oft a dish; cut one
pound of streaky bacon (previously parboiled for a quarter of an hour)
also in slices, and put them with the pork; to these add about a dozen
good apples, which, when peeled, and the cores taken out, must be cut
in thick slices and put on a plate. Next, take rather more than half
the paste, roll it out, and line an oblong tin mould, about two inches
deep, with it; then, arrange the pork, bacon, and apples in this, in
Alternate layers, commencing with the bacon, over this put slices of
apples, and then the pork, and so on until the whole is used up. The
remainder of the paste must now be rolled out, and used to cover the
pie with; fasten it securely round the edges, trim it, and pinch it
round boldly with the pincers; ornament the top with leaves, &c, egg
it over and bake it in an oven of moderate heat, for about two hours,
and serve it hot.
1246. LEICESTERSHIRE PORK PIE.
Cut the pork up in square pieces, fat and lean, about the size of a
cob-nut, season with pepper and salt, and a small quantity of sage and
thyme chopped fine, and set it aside on a dish in a cool place. Next,
make some hot-water-paste, using for this purpose (if desired) fresh- -
made hog's-lard instead of butter, in the proportion of eight ounces to
the pound of flour. These pies must be raised by hand, in the follow-
ing mannenc—First, mould the paste into a round ball upon the slab,
then roll it out to the thickness of half an inch, and with the back of
the right hand indent the centre in a circle reaching to within three
inches of the edge of the paste; next, gather up the edges all round,
pressing it closely with the fingers and thumbs, so as to give to it the
form of a purse; then continue to work it upwards, until the sides are
raised sufficiently high; the pie should now be placed on a baking-
sheet, with a round of buttered paper nnder it, and after it has been
filled with the pork—previously prepared for the purpose, covered in
with some of the paste in the nsual manner. Trim the edges, and pinch
it ronnd with the pincers, decorate it, egg it over and bake it until
done: calculating the time it should remain in the oveii, according to
the qnantity of meat it contains.
1247. EEL-PIE, A L'ANGLAISE.
Bone two good-sized Thames eels, spread them ont on a dish, and
sprinkle them over with a little pepper and salt. Make some quenelle
force-meat with either perch, tench, or carp: and after having mixed
some chopped mushrooms, parsley, one shalot, spread a thick layer of
it inside each eel, roll them up, cut the eel into four-inch lengths, and
place them on a dish until wanted. Next, line a plain mould with short
26


DIFFERENT KINDS OF PASTE. 419
baking-sheet, and put it in the oven to bake slowly for about two
honre: it should then be withdrawn and allowed to cool. Let the
paste be removed, the edges and sides of the pan washed, and the
contents of the pan pressed down tight, so as to exclude any confined
air, and after pouring over the surface some well-reduced glaze (made
from the carcass), to the depth of about a quarter of an inch, keep the
pie in a cool place until wanted for use.
When this kind of pie is intended to be kept for any length of time,
some clean hog's-lard should be run over the surface to the depth of
about an inch; when this has become set firm by cooling, the pan
should be covered in with strong white paper pasted over it, or in
lieu of this, a bladder (soaked in water, and well washed) may be tied
over it.
Note.—All kinds of game should be preserved in the above method;
but, if preferred, game may be used instead of livers for making the
force-meat. . Indeed, this is by far the best plan when the preserved
game is intended for keeping, as force-meat, when made with livers of
any kind, is more liable to fermentation than when made with fresh-
killed game.
1250. AROMATIC-SPICES, FOR SEASONING.
Take of nutmegs and mace, one ounce each; of cloves and white
pepper-corns, two ounces each; of sweet-basil, marjoram, and thyme,
one ounce each, and half an ounce of bay-leaves: these herbs should
be previously dried for the purpose: roughly pound the spices, then
place the whole of the above ingredients between two sheets of strong
white paper, and after the sides have been twisted or folded over
tightly, so as to prevent as much as possible the evaporation of the
volatile properties of the herbs and spices, place them on a baking-
sheet in the skreen to become perfectly dry; they must then be pounded
quickly, sifted through a fine hair-sieve, corked up tightly in iil'y
bottle, and kept for use.
DIFFERENT KINDS OF PASTE,
Til.,
Hot-watar-Paste, for Raised Pte. AWH*t-Pasto.
French Paste, for do. Office do.
Sbort Piute, for Timbala, 4c. Almond do.
Short Puff-Paste. Gum do,
Tart- Paste. Puff do.
1251. HOT-WATER PASTE, FOR RAISED PIES.
Ingrkdiknts :—One pound of flour, four ounces of butter, a tea-
spoonful of salt, about a gill and a half of hot water.
Place the flour on the pastry-table, spread it out with the back of
the hand, so as to form a well or hollow in the centre, into this put
the salt. Next, put the butler and water into a stewpan over the fire,
and when they are sufficiently heated, so that one can just bear the


420 DIFFERENT KINDS OF PASTE.
finger in, pour them both gradually in upon the flour, and mix them
quickly together with the hand, taking particular care to knead the
whole firmly, and at once, into a compact paste: then press this
smoothly together in a napkin, and afterward keep it covered up in a
stewpan in a warm place till used.
1252. FBENCH PASTK, FOR RAISED PIES.
Ingredients :—One pound of flour, four ounces of butter, a tea-
spoonful of salt, a gill and a half of cold water.
Place the flour on the slab, spread it out in the centre, theD add
the salt, water, and butter, and proceed to work the whole together
with the hands into a very firm paste in the following manner:—When
the ingredients have been worked into a paste, this must be brought
to the edge of the slab; then use the palms of both hands, applying
them alternately, with great force, to spread and divide the paste into
small parts; sprinkle a few drops of water over the paste, and knead
it together: this is called breaking and kneading, and must be repeated
three or four times. The paste must then be gathered up, placed in a
clean rubber, and finally kneaded together by pressing upon it with the
elbow. It will then be ready for use.
1253. SHORT-PASTE, FOR TIMBALES, ETC.
Ingredients :—One pound of flour, half a pound of butter, a tea-
spoonful of salt, the yolks of two eggs, and nearly half a pint of
water.
Make a well in the centre of the flour, place in this the yolks of
eggs, salt, butter, and two-thirds of- the water, then work the whole
together with the hands into a somewhat firm paste; dip the fingers
into the flour, to separate any of the paste that may adhere to them,
sprinkle a little water over it, and then work the whole together into a
ball, and keep it in a cloth till wanted for use.
1254. SHORT PUFF-PASTE.
Ingredients :—One pound of flour, twelve ounces of butter, a
little salt, one egg, and about half a pint of water.
Spread the flour out in the usual manner, place the egg, salt, half
the butter, and two-thirds of the water at first, adding as much of the
remainder as may be necessary afterward; work these together into
a smooth and somewhat firm paste, then spread this out with the
hand, and after the remaining half of the butter has been placed in
the centre, the sides should be folded over so as to entirely enclose
the butter. When the paste has stood five minutes, shake some flour
with the hand over the slab and on the paste, then roll it out to the
length of about two feet and a half, and about a foot wide; this must
be then folded into three, and after turning the paste round so as to
bring the sides to face you, roll it out again in a similar manner; after
an interval of about ten minutes, repeat the rolling* twice more: the
paste will then be fit for use.
* Each time that the paste undergoes the process of rolling, as here described, it ia
termed by cooks, " giving it a tarn." This kind of paste requires only four turns.


SHORT-PASTE, ETC. 421
1255. SHORT-PASTE FOR TARTS.
Ingredients :—One pound of flour, half a pound of butter, two
ounces of pounded sugar, a very little salt, two whole eggs, and about
a gill of water.
Spread the flour out on the slab with a hollow in the centre, then add
the butter, sugar, salt, and the water, and break in the two eggs; work
the whole together with the hands into a firm paste, and use it for
covering fruit tarts, and lining tartlets, &c
1256. NOUILLES-PASTE.
Ingredients:—One pound of flour, about ten yolks of eggs, a tea-
spoonful of salt, and merely sufficient water to melt the salt.
Place the flour on the slab, form a hollow in the centre, then put
the salt in, with a little water to melt it, and add the yolks of eight
eggs; Work the whole well together, at first rubbing the ingredients
between the hands, and then, if necessary, add two more yolks of
eggs, and finish working the paste by pushing it from you with the
palms of the hands, using considerable pressure; sprinkle a few drops
of water over it, then kuead the paste into a ball, and keep it wrapped
up in a cloth until wanted for use. This paste must be kept very
stiff.
1257. OFFICE-PASTE.
Ingredients :—One pound of flour, eight ounces of pounded sugar,
two whole eggs, and two yolks.
Place the flour on the slab, forming a hollow in the centre, then
add the sugar and the eggs, and proceed to work the whole up into a
stiff, compact body. If, however, the paste should appear dry, and
present any difficulty in kneading, another yolk or two may be
added.
This paste is mostly used for making ornaments for the second
course.
1258. ALMOND-PASTE.
Ingredients :—Eight ounces of Jordan almonds, a pound and a half
of sugar, with half an ounce of gum-dragon.
First, scald the almonds, remove the skin, wash them, and allow
them to steep in cold water for about twelve hours. Next, put the
gum into a galley-pot, adding to it rather more than a gill of water,
cover this over with paper twisted round the edge of the galley-pot,
and allow the gum to steep until it has absorbed all the water; it
must then be placed in the centre of a strong cloth, which should be
twisted round at each end by two persons (in the manner practised
in wringing wet cloths) with considerable pressure, so as to squeeze
the gum through the cloth, which must then be gathered up into a
small basin. Pound the sugar and sift it through a very fine lawn-
sieve.
The almonds must now be drained on a napkin, afterwards placed
in a mortar, and pounded into a very smooth paste; in order to pre-
vent them from turning oily, while they are being pounded, it will be
necessary to add a few drops of water or lemon-juice occasionally.
As soon ns the almonds present the appearance of a smooth paste, rub
this through a very close hair-sieve, on to a plate. Next, place the


422 DIFFERENT KINDS OF PASTE.
pounded almonds in a convenient-sized sugar boiler, with about one-
third part of the sugar, and stir these together over a stove-fire with
a new wooden spoon, working the paste briskly and carefully the
whole time, in order to prevent it from burning or acquiring the least
color. As soon as the paste ceases to adhere to the sides of the pan,
torn it out ou to the slab, and begin to work in the remainder of the
sugar and the gum; the latter must be previously worked on the
marble slab with the hand, and some of the sugar should be added at
intervals. When the whole of the ingredients have been worked
together, the paste should form a white, stiff, and smooth compact
body.
Note.—Almond paste, prepared as the above, is mostly used for
making croquantes, small baskets filled with whipped cream and straw-
berries, &c: it may also be used for making second-course ornaments;
being preferred by many for that purpose on account of its trans-
parency.
1259. ALMOND-PASTE, ANOTHER METHOD.
Ingredients :—Two pounds of fine-sifted sugar, eight ounces of
pounded almonds, and one ounce of steeped gum-dragon.
When the ingredients have been prepared as directed in the fore-
going case, work about half the sugar in with the gum ; then work the
almonds with part of the remainder, add both together, and manipu-
late them with the remaining portion of the sugar, until the whole is
thoroughly incorporated. If the paste is not stiff enough, a little more
fine-sifted sugar should be filled in. In order to obtain this paste of
a pure and dazzling whiteness, a very small quantity of cobalt blue, in
powder, may be worked in with it, the color must be first mixed on a
plate with a drop of water, preparatory to its being used.
Note.—About one-third part of starch, or hair powder, may be used
to work in with this kind of almond paste; this addition makes it less
brittle, and consequently increases the facility of using it to cast mould-
ings, cutting out borders, &c When, however, starch powder is intro-
duced, double the usual quantity of gum-dragon is required.
1260. GUM-PASTE.
Ingredients :—Two ounces of gum-dragon, one pound of fine-sifted
sugar, and one pound of starch powder.
First, steep the gum-dragon in a small basin with nearly half a pint
of water, cover it over with paper, and put the basin in a warm place:
when the gum has absorbed all the water, press it through a cloth as
directed for the almond paste, then work it on the marble slab with the
palm of the hand, mixing in the sugar at intervals; when the gum has
absorbed all the sugar, the powder must be gradually worked in with
it . The whole, when finished, should have the appearance of a very
stiff compact smooth paste. Then gather it up into a round ball, put
it on a plate covered with a basin, and keep it in a damp place, to pre-
vent its becoming dry and hard.
1261. PUFF-PASTE,
Ingredieets :—One pound of flour, one pound of butter, the yolk
of an egg, a tea-spoonful of salt, and about half a pint of water.


PUFF-PASTE. 423
Place the flour on the pastry-slab, spread it out in the centre, so as
to form a well, in which place the salt, a small piece of butler, the
yolk of an egg, and about two-thirds of the quantity of water required
to mix the paste; spread out the fingers of the right hand, and mix the
ingredients together gradually with the tips of the fingers, adding a
little more water, if necessary; when the whole is thoroughly incorpo-
rated together, sprinkle a few drops of water over it, and work the
paste to and fro on the slab for two minutes, after which it should be
rather soft to the touch, and present a perfectly smooth appearance.
The paste, thus far prepared, must now be spread out on the slab
with the hands, and after the butter has been pressed in a cloth, to ex-
tract any milk it may contain, it should be placed in the centre of the
paste, and partially spread, by pressing on it with the cloth; the four
sides should then be folded over so as entirely to cover the butter; a
little flour must next be shaken under and over it, and the paste should
be shaped in a square form, measuring about ten inches each way, by
pressing it out with the hand; it should then be placed on a clean
baking-sheet, laid on some pounded rough ice,* and a deep sautapan
also filled with ice should be placed upon it: by these means the paste
will be kept cool and firm. About ten minutes after the paste has been
made, take it from the ice and place it on a marble slab, shake a little
flour over and under it, and then roll it out about two feet long, and
ten inches wide; observing that the paste must be kept square at both
ends, as much of the success depends on due attention being paid to
the turning and folding. The paste should then be laid in three equal
folds, and after these have been rolled over to cause them to adhere
together, the paste must next be turned round in the opposite direction
and rolled out again in the same manner as before; it should then be
put back on the ice, and after allowing it to rest for about ten minutes
or a quarter of an hour, roll it out again, or, as it is technically termed,
give it two more turns; the paste must now be put back on the ice,
and again rolled twice or three times, as the case may require, prepara-
tory to its being cut out for whatever purpose it may be intended.
* Tn the summer season it is impossible to insure success in making puff-paste, unless
rough ice be uaed to further that end, it being a matter of the first necessity that it
should be kept cool and firm: two requisites that tend materially to facilitate the work-
ing of the paste, and also contribute very considerably to give to it that extracrdinary
degree of elasticity, when exposed to the heat of an oven, so well known to experienced
pastrycooks. A piece of puff-paste, a quarter of an inch thick, when baked, will rise to
the height of two inches—thus increasing in volume eight times. To effect this prop-
erly, it is necessary to procure three oblong tin pans, of the following dimensions: the
first should measure 20 inches by 16, depth 3 inches; the second, 18 inches by 14, depth
2 inches; and the third, 16 inches by 12, depth 3 inches. Place some pounded rough
ice in the largest, then set the secffnd-sized tin on this, with the puff-paste in it; lastly,
pat the smallest pan, also filled with ice, on the top of the paste: by this method puff-
patte may be easily made to perfection during the hottest days of summer.
Id winter, the use of ice may, of course, be dispensed with. In extreme cold weather,
when the batter is very bard, it will be neoessary to press it in a cloth or on the slab, to
give it more expansion, and thus facilitate its incorporation with the paste. Care must
be taken, in mixing the paste, not to make it too stiff, especially in summer, as, in that
ease, it becomes not only troublesome to work, but it also affects its elasticity in baking.


424
TOL-AU-VENT, TOURTE, AND PATTY CASES,
COMPRISHCG
Vol-an-vent Cnses, for an Entrlc Timbale of Nouilla Cum.
Tourte ditto ditto* Patties, d la Mazarine.
Puff-paf te Patty Cuea, Mutton Patties, d la Windtor.
Crtitutade ditto.
1262. VOL-AU-YENT CASES, FOR AN ENTREE.
For this purpose, one pound of puff-paste will be required, and
when mixing it, the juice of one lemon must be added. The paste
must be rolled perfectly square at the ends, and folded likewise with
the greatest correctness, in order to ensure the vol-au-venVs rising per-
fectly straight all round, which cannot be the case if it is rolled un-
evenly. Five turns and a half must be given to the paste, allowing
about seven minutes to elapse between each turn: observing that
previously to folding up the last turn and a half, the paste must be
passed over with a paste-brush dipped in water or a little lemon-juice;
attention must be paid, in giving the last two turns, to roll the paste
out, and also to fold it, especially when giving the last turn on spread-
ing it to the size the vol-au-vent is intended to be made, so «s to be
able to cut it as thick as the quantity of paste will admit of; just be-
fore cutting out the vol-au-vent, the piece of paste must be wetted on
one side with the brush dipped in water. Next, roll out about four
ounces of common paste to the diameter of a dinner-plate, lay this on
the puff-paste, just passing the rolling-pin over to cause it to adhere,
and then place it on the baking-sheet, previously wetted in the centre
to receive it. For the purpose of guiding the hand when cutting it
out, the cover of a stewpan or bain-marie should be placed on it; then'
with a small sharp-pointed knife proceed to cut round the edge of the
cover, forming perpendicular flutes or scollops; the knife must be
held comparatively loose, yet securely, with the tips of the fingers only.
Remove the trimmings and the cover, egg over the surface, and be
careful not to smear the edges of the paste, as that would prevent it
from rising evenly; then with the point of the small knife, held slant-
ing, make a slight incision all round the surface, within about three-
quarters of an inch of the edge, and with the point notch round the
extreme edge of the inner circle, so as to separate it entirely from the
inner edge of the outer circle. The vol-au-vent should now be put into
the oven (net toe hot, as excess of heat prevents the paste from
rising); as soon as it begins to rise, let a trivet be quickly slipped
under it, and the oven immediately closed. When it has risen about
two inches, and before it has acquired any color, a broad band of
double paper (or a wooden hoop from an old sieve), measuring two
inches more in circumference than the vol-au-vent, about eight inches
high, and fastened in the form of a hoop, must be placed round it to
protect the sides from being suddenly caught by the heat, which
otherwise would not only scorch it, but also check its full develop-
ment: it should remain in the oven quite an hour to be thoroughly


TOURTE CASES, FOR AN ENTREE. 425
baked. When the vol-au-vent is done, withdraw it from the oven;
instantly remove the cover, and after carefully detaching all the greasy
crumb from the centre, without in any way injuring the sides of the
case, lift it out, taking particular care to stop up any thinly-covered
places in the inside of the case with small flakes of the crumb which
has been removed : this precaution is necessary in order to prevent the
sauce from escaping through any fissures that may exist.
1263. TOURTE CASES, FOR AN ENTREE.
'tit „
.V .•• •
ffc Ml*i

First, prepare half a pound of puff-paste, and give it four turns, in
the usual manner; make also half a pound of common short paste,
take half of this, knead it into a round ball, roll it out to the size of a
dinner-plate, put it on a round baking-sheet, and place a tampoon* of
paper in the centre. The pnff-paste must then be rolled out about
twenty inches long, wetted over with the brush dipped in water, and
folded lengthwise in three; this must be rolled again in its width, just
sufficient to make it about four inches wide: the paste should then
be slightly wetted over, and then folded as before: by this time, it
should form a band, measuring about twenty inches long by nearly
two inches wide, and about half an inch thick. The edges of the paste
must now be pared away, with a small sharp knife, held perpendicu-
larly in the right hand, whilst the paste must be slightly pressed on
the slab with the fore-part of the fingers. Next, add the trimmings
of the puff-paste to the remaining half of the common paste, knead
both together, roll this out to the size of a plate, and after having
first wetted the foundation round the edge, place it over the tampoon
and press it down all round with the thumb; then wet the edge of
the tourte round again, and apply the band in the following manner.
Take hold of the band at both ends, and begin by fastening that held
in the right hand round the edge of the tourte, and continue fixing
the band all round as- fast as it is dropped in its place with the left
hand; press the first end down so as to thin it, wet this part with the
brush, and after paring away a little of the other end, so as to thin that
also, fasten both together by effectually joining them. Press the band
down all round with the thumb, and flute it round the edge by jagging
it slightly with the back of a knife.
The tourte must then be edged over with a paste-brush, so as to
carefully avoid smearing the edges of the band. Place it in a mode-
rately-heated oven, and let it be baked of a light color; when dofle,
* From the French word tampon, a kind of small, hard cushion: in the present case,
it should consist uf a large sheet of rather soft paper, twisted in the form of a circular
cushion, about fuur inches in diameter.


426
PUFF-PASTE, PATTY CASES, ETC.
withdraw it, make an incision with a small knife all round the bottom
of the crown, inside the band, remove the crown or top, take out the
tampoon, and the case will then be ready for garnishing.
1264. PUFF-PASTE, PATTY-CASES.
Make one pound of puff-paste in the manner described in No. 1261,
and give it seven turns, wetting the last turn before folding it; then
roll the paste out so as to leave it scarcely a quarter of an inch thick,
and about three minutes afterwards, take a fluted circular tin-cutter
about two inches in diameter, and use this to stamp out as many
patties as may be required; previously to stamping out each patty,
the cutter should be first dipped in very hot water, as the heat thus
imparted to the cutter causes it to slip easily through the paste, and
produces the same effect as if it were cut with a sharp knife; in con-
sequence of there being little or no pressure on the edges, the paste
has thus a much betyer chance of rising while baking, especially in the
summer season. As soou as the patties are cut out, they should be
immediately placed in rows, on a baking-sheet previously wetted over,
about two inches apart from each other; then egg them over with a
soft brush dipped in beaten egg, being careful not to smear the edges,
and stamp them in the centre, making a slight incision through their
surface, with a plain circular tin-cutter about one inch and a half in
diameter (this cutter must also be dipped in hot water each time it is
used). The patties should then be quickly put in the oven and baked
of a light color; when done, let the covers or tops be removed, pick
out the inner crumb carefully with the point of a small knife, and
then place the patties with their tops on a baking-sheet lined with
clean paper.
1265. CROUSTADE CASES.
Roll out half a pound of limbale paste (No. 1253) to the thickness
of a penny-piece, then take a circular tin-cutter, about four inches in
diameter, and stamp oi	 a dozen flats; next, press one of these on
the end of a circular piece of wood, about six inches long by about
one and a quarter in diameter (or failing this, cut a carrot to that
shape). Line a darioZe-mould, previously slightly spread with butter,
with the paste so prepared: use the thumb to make the paste lie
evenly in the mould, trim away the edges, raise the sides a little, then
fill each croustade so finished with flour, mixed with a fourth part of
chopped suet, and bake them of a light color; when done, empty
them, brush them out, and place them on a dish. The tops must be
stamped ont with a small circular fluted cutter,•from some puff-paste,
rolled seven turns; put these on a baking sheet previously wetted to
receive them, egg them over with a soft brush, place a much smaller
circular piece of paste on the top of each, egg these over, and then
bake them of a bright light color; when done, trim them, and place
each on the top of one of the croustades after they are garnished.
1266. TIMBALE OF NOUILLES CASES.
Prepare the nouilles as directed in No. and parboil them in
water for ten minutes, then drain them thoroughly on a sieve; after-
ward toss them with two ounces of butter, a spoonful of good B6-
chamel sauce (No. 5), and a little grated nutmeg, in a stewpau over the
■


MUTTON PATTIES, A LA WINDSOR. 427
Stove-fire for five minutes; then, throw them into a santapan, full two
inches deep, previously slightly spread with butter; cover them down
evenly with a circular piece of buttered paper, and allow them to be-
come perfectly cold. The preparations must then be turned out of the
santapan on the table, upon a sheet of paper; and the croustades or
timbales should be stamped out of this with a plain circular tin-cutter
about an inch and a half in diameter, and placed on a dish; they must
next be rolled in very fine fresh-made bread-crumbs, afterwards dipped
in beaten ejrjr, and then bread-crumbed over again: smooth the bread-
crumbs on the timbales by rolling and patting them, place them in neat
order on a dish, and with a plain circular cutter, an inch in diameter,
'stamp out the surface of each, exactly in the centre, making only a
slight incision. When about to send the timbales to table, place them
carefully in neat order on the wire lining of a deep frying-pan (half
filled with clean hog's-lard, made quite hot; immerse them in the fat,
and fry them of a bright yellow color; when done, drain them on a
cloth, and empty them carefully with a fork.
Note.— Croustades or small timbales may also be made of vermicelli,
prepared in the same way as nouilles. Rice may also be used for the
same purpose.
1267. PATTIES, A LA MAZARIN.
Give seven turns to half a pound of puff-paste, roll it out to the
thickness of a penny-piece, and stamp out two dozen tops with a plain
circular tin-cutter, about one inch and a half in diameter; then gather
up the trimmings, knead them together, roll them out, and stamp two
dozen more; place these on a baking-sheet, about an inch and a half
apart from each other, and wet them over with a soft brush ; garnish the
centre of each with a little force-meat of any kind, place the tops on them,
and use the upper part of a smaller cutter to press them down, so as
to fasten the two parts together; they must then be egged over, and
baked in a rather brisk oven; when done, dish them up on a napkin,
and serve. *
1268. MUTTON PATTIES, A LA WINDSOR.
Trim the lean parts of a loin of mutton, free from fat and sinew;
cnt this up into small scollops, mix these with some fine-herbs, consist-
ing of chopped mushrooms, parsley, and shalot; season with pepper
and salt, and add a ragroutf-spoonful of reduced E&pagnole sauce; use
the preparation to fill some croustades lined with short paste, cover
them with some of the same kind of paste, and bake them of a light
color. When done, remove the lops from the patties, pour a little thin
Espagnole or Italian sauce in each, cover them with puff-paste tops
(made similar to crdustade tops), and serve.
Note Crdustades and patties are garnished with scollops or ragouts
of chicken, game, all kinds of fillets of fish, the tails of crayfish, prawns
and shrimps, with oysters in scollops, small dice, and also with lobster
cat up in small dice. They may be sauced either with Supreme, Be-
chamel, or AUemande, Lobster, Oyster, or Crayfish sauces.


428
CAKES IN GENERAL,
CO UPRISING
Brioche Paste.
Baba, or Polish Cake.
Compitgne Cake.
German Kouglauff.
Parisian Cake.
Victoria Cake.
Savarin.
Savoy Cake.
Finger, or Naples Biscuit
.
Plum Cake.
Scotch Bread.
Plain Seed Cake.
Brussels Biscuits, or Rusks.
Pound Cake.
Flemish Qnuffres.
French Qanffree
.
Almond Qanffre:
IfongaU.
Parisian Nougat:
Small Knugaf, d la Chnntilly.
Genoese Cakes.
Genoese Cakes, with Almonds.
Madeleines.
Spanish Cake (Petite-chotu-).
Duchess Loaves.
Petite-rhoux, with Caramel.
Profitrollee.
Mecca Loaves.
Queen's Cakes.
Almond Cakes.
Meringues.
Italian Biscuits.
Venetian do.
Swedish Macaroons.
Brown-Bread Biscuits.
Ginger Cakes.
Champagne Biscuits.
Orange do.
Peach do.
Apricot do.
Chocolate Glacle.
Varieties of other Glad:
Suisse Lecrelcte.
Sicilian Biscuits.
Russian do.
Albert do.
Victoria do.
1269. BRIOCHE PASTE.
Ingredients :—One pound of flour, ten ounces of butter, half an
ounce of German yeast, a tea-spoonful each of salt and sugar, and about
seven eggs;
Put one-fourth part of the flour on the slab, spread it out to form a
well, then place the yeast in the centre, and proceed to dissolve it with
a little tepid water; when this is effected, add sufficient water to mix
the whole into a rather soft paste; knead this into the form of a round
ball, put it into a stewpan capable of containing three times its quan-
tity, score it round the sides with a knife, put the lid on and set it to
rise in a rather warm place; in winter it may be put in the skreen, but
in hot weather the fermentation will proceed more satisfactorily if it is
merely placed on the kitchen table, or in some such place of moderate
warmth. This part of the operation is termed setting the sponge.
Next, put the remainder of the flour on the slab, and spread it out in
the centre to form the well; then place the salt and sugar, And a tea-
spoonful of water to dissolve these, after which the butter must be added;
break in six eggs, and work the whole together with the hands until
well mixed, first working it between the hands, and then rubbing it
with both fists held flat on the slab, and moving them to and fro, so as
to thoroughly reduce any remaining lumps in the paste. By the time
the paste is mixed, the sponge will probably have risen sufficiently; to
be perfect, it must rise to three times its original size; when spread out on


BRIOCHE PASTE. 429
the paste prepared to receive it, it should present the appearance of a
sponge, from which it takes its name.
Both the above should be then immediately, gently, but thoroughly
mixed. A napkin must be spread in a wooden bowl, or a basin, some
flower shaken over it, and the brioche -paste lifted into it; then shake
a little flour over the paste, and after throwing the ends of the napkin
over all, set the bowl containing the paste in a cool place, free from any
current of air.
It is usual to make this kind of paste late in the evening previously
to the day on which it is required for use. The first thing on the
following morning, the ort'oc/ie-paste must be turned off the napkin on
to the slab; then shake some flour under and over it, and fold the
paste over half a dozen times, pressing it down with the knuckles each
time; put the paste back again into the bowl in the same way as before;
and about three hours afterwards, knead it again in a similar manner,
previously to its being baked.
If the paste, when finished, appears to be fall of small globules of
air, and is perfectly elastic to the touch, it is certain to be well made,
and, when baked, will be both light and of a bright clear color.
If the paste is intended to be made into one brioche only, take five-
sixths of it, mould this into the form of a round ball or cushion, and
place it in a plain mould or paper-case* (previously spread with butter)
with the smooth surface uppermost; press it down in the case with the
knuckles, -and, after moulding the remaining piece of paste in a similar
manner, first, wet the surface of the other part over with the paste-
brush dipped in water, and then, after inserting the pointed end of this
into the centre of that portion of the brioche which has been already
placed in the case, press the head down upon it with the back of the
hand ; egg the brioche over with a paste-brush, score the sides slightly,
in a slanting-direction, place it on a baking-sheet and put it in the oven
(at moderate heat). As soon as the brioche begins to rise, and has
acquired a slight degree of color, let it be covered over with a sheet of
paper: about two hours will suffice to bake a large brioche of double
the quantity of paste described in this article.
Note.—Brioches may be varied in their form, when intended to be
served as fancy bread, for breakfast, &c; in which case they should be
moulded in the shape of twists, fingers, rings, &c When served on
the refreshment table, at routs, public breakfasts, balls, &c, dried
cherries, citron, candied orange or lemon-peel, pine-apple or angelica,
steeped in some kind of liqueur, may be introduced; in either of these
cases, previously to mixing in the fruit, part of the paste must be
* The case is thus made. For a large brioche, intended to be served as a second-
coarse remove, take a large sheet of Bristol-board, and cut a band from this, measuring
about two feet long by eight inches broad; the two ends should be sewed together with
strong thread, and some small bands of paper, smeared over with flour-and-water paste,
should be stuck over the sewing to make it more secure. This hoop should then be
placed upon a circular piece of the pasteboard, cut to fit its circumference, and both
these must be securely fastened together by placing small strips of paper (pasted ovor)
all round the angle of the bottom part of the case; these must be placed close together
and crosswise, with one end fastened under the case, while the other is lapped round
the angle and fastened at the side. These strips of paper, after becoming very dry,
should receive another row over them, to make the case stronger.


430 CAKES.
reserved, which, after being rolled out, must be used to enclose the
other part of the brioche. This precaution is necessary to prevent the
fruit from protruding through the paste, as it becomes calcined by the
heat of the oven, and gives an unsightly appearance to the sponge.
When fruit has been mixed in a brioche, it should be (when baked)
glazed with fine sugar by the salamander.
Gruyere or Parmesan cheese, in equal proportions, are sometimes
introduced in a brioche for a second-course remove; the first should
be cut up in dice, the latter grated. As in the above cases, this kind
of brioche must be enclosed in a portion of the paste reserved for that
purpose.
1270. BABA, OR POLISH CAKE.
Ingredients :—Two pounds of flour, twenty ounces of butter, four
ounces of sugar, six ounces of muscatel raisins, four ounces of currants,
two ounces of candied citron, a good pinch of saffron, two wine-glasses
of brandy, and the same quantity of rum, half an ounce of salt, about
fifteen eggs, and one ounce of German yeast.
First, set the sponge with one-fourth part of the flour and the yeast,
in the same way as directed for preparing brioche. Then, spread out
the remainder of the flour so as to form a hollow in the centre: place
in this the butter and salt previously dissolved with a drop or two of
water, four ounces of pounded sugar, and break in fifteen eggs: mix
the whole thoroughly, working the paste with the hands on the slab.
When this is effected, gather the paste up closely, and take up portions
of it with the hands, and jerk or throw these down again on the other
part of the paste; continue working it in this fashion for five minutes,
then, if the sponge is sufficiently risen, spread it out over the paste and
mix both together lightly. A large mould should now be spread with
butter, and lined not more than half through with a thin coating of the
paste, and as soon as this'has been effected, all the fruit, the rum, the
brandy, and an infusion' of the saffron, must be added; the whole of
which must be instantly well mixed and lifted into the mould.
The baba should next be set, to rise gradually, in a place where the
temperature is moderate and free from any current of air; and as soon
as it has risen in a satisfactory manner, which may easily be known by
its increasing sufficiently in quantity (through fermentation), to nearly
fill the mould,—althongh at first only half filled, the baba should be
immediately placed in the oven on a thick baking-sheet, with a thick
roll of paper round the bottom of the monld to protect the baba from
receiving too much heat at first. From one hour and a half to two
hours will suffiee to bake it.
Particular care should be taken in baking the baba, to prevent its
acquiring a deep color; to obviate this, it must be baked in an oven
of moderate heat.
1271. COMPIEGNE CAKE.
Ingredients :—Two pounds of flour, twenty-two ounces of butter,
half a pint of double cream, six ounces of pounded sugar, two wine-
glasses, of maraschino, one ounce of German yeast, fifteen eggs, and
half an ounce of salt.
Set the sponge with one-fourth part of the flour and the yeast in


PARISIAN CAKE. 431
the usual way (see Brioche No. 1269), and while it is rising, prepare
the paste at follows :—
Place the remainder of the flour on the marble slab, spread it out
in the centre to form the well, place in this the salt, and sugar (with a
very little water to dissolve the salt), the butter and eggs, and pro-
ceed to mix these thoroughly in the same way as brioche; just before
adding the sponge, mix in the maraschino and the whipped cream.
The paste must be instantly lifted into an appropriate-sized mould,
previously spread with butter, and deposited in a comparatively-cool
place to rise, or ferment in the usual manner: as soon as it has nearly
reached the surface of the mould, stick a band of paper round the
edge, and put it in the oven to bake, at a very moderate heat; remem-
bering that an essential characteristic of this kind of cake, is a light
color.
It is customary to eat the CompiSgne cake hot, and it is served in
various ways. When turned out of the mould, a small piece should
be taken out of the centre of the top, and a few glasses of maraschino
poured in through the opening; or, the cake may be cut up in hori-
zontal slices half an inch thick, and previously to putting them to-
gether again, some apricot marmalade may be placed between each.
Dried cherries and angelica may be introduced in the composition of
these cakes, previously to their being baked.
1272. GERMAN KOUGLAUFF.
Ingredients:—Two pounds of flour, one pound and a quarter of
butter, eight whole eggs, and eight yolks; one and a quarter ounce
of German yeast, four ounces of sugar, half an ounce of cinnamon
powder, and grated lemon-peel, or the rind of lemon rubbed on lump
sugar, and afterwards scraped off, half an ounce of salt, half a pint of
single cream, and six ounces of Jordan almonds.
First, place the butter in a convenient-sized white kitchen pan, and
work it with a clean wooden spoon for about ten minutes, by which
time the butter should present the appearance of a thick cream; the
cinnamon, lemon and sugar, the pounded sugar, about one-fourth part
of the flour, and three eggs should then be added, and the whole
quickly worked together for a few minutes; then add the remainder
of the flour and eggs gradually, still continuing to work the paste with
the wooden spoon. When the whole has been used up, spread the
paste out in the centre, and add the yeast (previously dissolved with
the salt in the cream made tepid for the purpose); work the whole
thoroughly, then pour this batter into a large mould, previously spread
with butter, split the almonds, and place them round the inside of the
mould in close order. Bake the kouglauf in an oven of moderate
beat. Its color should be of a bright reddish yellow.
In Germany, it is customary to shake some cinnamon sugar all over
this kind of cake as soon as it is turned out of the mould.
1273. PARISIAN CAKE.
Ingredients.—Two pounds of flour, twenty ounces of butter, six
ounces of sugar, eight whole eggs and eight yolks, one pint of single
cream, eight ounces of Jordan almonds, and two ounces of bitter ditto,
eight ounces o'f pistachio kernels, four ounces of candid orange-peel,
half au ounce of salt, one and a quarter ounce of yeast.


432 CAKES.
First, let the pistachio kernels be scalded, remove the hulls, split
each kernel into four strips, and place these aside in a small basin.
The candied orange-peel must then be shred into small thin narrow
strips, and put with the pistachios. Next, remove the hulls from the
almonds, wash and pound them into a very soft paste (adding a few
drops of water to prevent them from becoming oily), then mix them
with the cream, and after they have steeped for half an hour, let the
whole be rubbed through a tammy, the same as a puree, and kept in
very cool place until wanted for use.
For mixing this cake, follow in all respect the directions given for
the German kouglauff (No. 1272), adding the pistachios and orange-
peel after lining the mould with the plain paste; the yeast must be
dissolved in a little tepid water, and the almonds and cream added
cold. It should be baked nearly of the same color as a Savoy cake.
Note.—It is necessary to put all these cakes back in the oven for
two or three minutes, after they are turned out of the mould, to pre-
vent them from becoming shriveled on the surface, or from otherwise
shrinking and falling in, which is unavoidably the case when any steam
has collected upon them.
1274. VICTORIA CAKE.
Ingredients :—Two pounds of flour, twenty ounces of butter,
twelve eggs, six ounces of pounded sugar, six ounces of ground or
pounded almonds, also a few bitter ditto, eight ounces of dried cher-
ries, four ounces of green citron cut up in shreds, half an ounce of
cinnamon powder, half a pint of whipped cream, one ounce and- a
quarter of German yeast, two wine-glasses of brandy, and half an
ounce of salt.
Mix the above ingredients according to the directions given for the
German kouglaiiff: except that the yeast must be dissolved in a
spoonful of tepid water, and the cream whipped previously to its
being added the last thing. When the cake is mixed, it should be
placed in a tin hoop, measuring" abont ten inches in diameter by four
inches deep. A double sheet of paper, spread with butter, should be
first placed on a stout copper baking-sheet, and the hoop, also lined
with paper, next placed upon it, ready to receive the mixture. As
soon as the fermentation of the paste has taken place in a satisfactory
degree, causing it to increase to twice its original quantity, let it be
immediately put in the oven (at moderate heat), and baked of a light
color.
This kind of cake may be served as a second-course remove; some
apricot marmalade, diluted with a little lemon-juice and warmed,
should be sent to table with it separately in a sauce-boat, or, if pre-
ferred; instead of the apricot, some German custard sauce, made in the
following manner:—
Put four yolks of eggs in a middle-sized bain-marie, and add two
ounces of pounded sugar, two wine-glasses of Sherry, and the rind of
an orange or lemon grated on sugar. Place the bain-marie containing
these ingredients in a larger stewpan with water sufficient to reach
about one inch up the outside of the bain-marie; set this on a slow
stove-fire, and commence whisking or milling the contents briskly,
until it appears like a rich-looking frothy custard. Be careful not to


SAVOY CAKE. 433
allow the cream to become too hot, as that would set the yolks of
eggs, and thereby decompose the custard.
1274a, SAVABisr cake.
Ingredients :—Two pounds of flour, four ounces of sngar, twenty
ounces of fresh butter, fifteen eggs, half an ounce of salt, one ounce of
German yeast, and four ounces of blanched and shred almonds.
First, set the sponge, with one-fourth part of the flour, and the
yeast, in the same manner as directed for making brioche. Then,
while the sponge is placed in a moderate temperature, to admit of its
rising gradually and satisfactorily, place the remainder of the flour in
a large white pan or basin, hollow out the centre, and having first
placed therein the salt, moistened with a tea-spoonful of water, the
butter, sugar, and ten whole eggs broken, proceed to manipulate the
whole with the right hand, beating up the paste until it easily leaves
the sides of the pan; you then break in the remainder of the eggs,
two at a time, until the paste has absorbed the whole; and, after
having continued to work it five minutes longer, proceed to fill an
appropriate-sized mould with it in manner following:—First, let the
inside of the mould be well buttered, after which, strew the shred
almonds equally over and about the surface of the interior; next,
work the paste up again for a minute or two, and put a sufficient
quantity thereof into the mould to rather more than half fill it. You
now place the Savarin in a moderate temperature to rise until it has
nearly filled the mould; when, after first sticking a broad band of thick
paper round the upper part of the mould, so as effectually to prevent
the batter from running over the sides of the mould, while it is being
baked, put it into an oven of moderate heat, and bake it for about two
hours. When done, turn the Savarin out of the mould, and after first-
running a knife into several parts of the surface, pour gently a rather
thick orange syrup, containing a glassful of curacao, over and into the
Savarin, and send to table quite warm.
This kind of cake is sometimes, in order to vary its appearance, after
being first well soaked with a warm rich syrup, rolled all over in orange
or lemon sugar.
1275. SAVO'Y CAKE.
Ingredients :—One pound of the finest quality of sngar (pounded),
fourteen eggs, four ounces and a half of the finest flour, and four
ounces and a half of potato flour.
First, separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs, taking care
not to drop the least portion of the yolks into the whites, as any mix-
ture of these renders it impossible to whisk the whites firm. The
yolks must be put into a kitchen basin, and the whites into an egg
bowl, to be kept in a cool place until used. Add the sugar to the
yolks, throw in as much salt as will stand on a sixpence, and either
some vanilla, lemon, or orange sugar, or else a few drops of any kind
of essence, such as orange, lemon, orange-flowers, vanilla, or bitter
almonds. Work these together with a wooden spoon, until the whole
presents the appearance of a thick creamy batter. The whites must
now be whisked into a firm substantial snowy froth; while this is
going on, let both the wheaten and potato flour be well mixed in with
2T


434 CAKES.
the batter. As soon as the whites are satisfactorily whisked,* pro-
ceed to mix them also in with the batter: they must be added in
small quantities at first, until it has become smoothly diluted; the
whole of what remains should then be added, and gently yet
thoroughly mixed. The batter thus prepared, must now be gently
poured into a mould previously prepared for the purpose in the
following manner:—
About one pound of beef or veal suet should be first chopped very
fine, then melted down in a stewpan; after it has been strained
through a napkin, pour this into the mould, turn it round in all
directions, so that the fat may touch all the angles and recesses; it
must then be poured out, and the mould should be turned upside down
on a plate, and allowed to stand in a warm place, for a few minutes,
that the fat may be entirely drained off. About one pound of the finest
sifted sugar should now be immediately put into the mould, and shaken,
about in it, in order that it may effectually cover the whole of the in-
side of the mould with a perfectly smooth white surface. Care must
be taken to avoid leaving a greater quantity of fat adhering to the sides
of the mould than is positively necessary; for if there be too thick a
coating of sugar .in the mould, the Savoy cake will be more difficult to
bake of a light color; the heat of the oven being liable to partially
calcine the sugar, and thus darken its hue.
When the Savoy cake is ready to be baked, tie a broad band of
paper (folded in three) round the base, and put a few wood-ashes ou
the baking-sheet, previously to placing the cake on the latter, before
putting it in the oven, which must' be of very moderate heat; parti-
cular care must be taken to keep it closed as mush as possible while
the cake is baking, and also not to increase its temperature afterwards:
this may be easily avoided, if the oven be substantially built, f by its
being properly heated at first, it will then retain for some time an even
temperature.
It is impossible to determine on the exact length of time that this,
or, indeed, any other cake should remain in the oven before it is done;
this will mainly depend upon the construction of the oven, and partly
on the necessity there may be for occasionally opening it during the
process of baking the cake.
* The white! mast he whisked slowly at first, increasing the motion or the hand
gradually until it reaches the greatest possible speed: the motion of (he whisk must be
kept up at this rate, until the whites are become sufficiently firm, when they must be
instantly mixed in with the batter,—otherwise they are liable, by partial decomposition,
to lose their consistency.
f Brick ovens are best adapted for baking all kinds of large cakes, pies, Ac.: the
reason of this is chiefly owing to their being generally constructed of a superior kind
of bricks and tiles, requiring, from their compactness, one or two hours to heat them
thoroughly ; such an oren is, therefore, capable of retaining its heat a much longer time
than one built of iron; unless, indeed, when the latter happens to be very substantially
made, which is too seldom the case. Iron-built ovens are also desirable, as well for
their economy of fuel, as for the short time in which they may be heated; and, further,
on account of the celerity and convenience with whioh one pcrton may prepare large quan-
tities of small pastry, and bake it also. This could not so easily be done with a brick
oven by only one person; as, when It happens that a large oven is full of pastry, soma
one must be in constant attendance, in order to watch and regnlate the different degrees
of heat or baking which the several articles require, and determine their stay and position
in the oveu accordingly. All this needs the most vigilant care and attention, in order
to secure success in the baking of delicate pastry; for, however well it may have been
prepared, if it is not equally well baked, the result will be unsatisfactory.


FINGER BISCUITS. 435
The best way to ascertain whether the cake be done is to run a
wooden skewer down the centre, and if, when withdrawn, the skewer is
dry, and free from any portion of the cake in an uubaked state, it will
be safe to turn it out of the mould; it should then be of a light color
and smooth surface.
Note.—Savoy cakes may also be made by using twelve, sixteen, or
even twenty eggs to one pound of sugar; but when a cake of large size
is required, the proportions must be at the rate of twelve, fourteen, or
at the utmost sixteen eggs to one pound of sugar; even in the hitter
case, such batter would not prove successful where four pounds are
required to fill one mould. Savoy-cake batter made in the proportion
of sixteen or twenty eggs to one pound of sugar, is best adapted for
small sponge cakes, finger biscuits, drops, &c
1276. FINGERS, OR NAPLES BISCUITS.
Prepare the batter as directed in the foregoing case; then fill a
biscuit-forcer with some of it, and after securely folding down the open
end, proceeckto use the batter in the following manner:—Cut a sheet
of foolscap paper in two, fold these lengthwise, in order to mark a
straight line along the centre of the half-sheets; the forcer must then
be held in the right hand, pressing the batter out by working the thumb
upon it, while the pointed end must be guided with the left hand.
In this manner the biscuits must be spread, or rather dropped in
straight lines, resembling fingers, about three inches long by half an
inch wide: they should form two rows, being divided by the line in
the centre of the paper. When the sheet is full, place it upon a large
sheet of kitchen paper (or demy) containing about one pound of the
finest sifted sugar, placed in the form of a ridge along the upper part
of the paper as it lies on the table before you; the sheet containing
the biscuits being placed just below the sugar, it will only be necessary
to lift up the other paper at each corner with the hands, and by
given it a slight jerk, the sugar will be thrown on to the biscuits:
then, by taking hold of the paper, holding the biscuits at each upper
corner, and gently shaking it as it is held up in a perpendicular posi-
tion, the sugar will be made to slide over the whole at once. By this
means the biscuits are effectually glazed without waste. The finger
biscuits must be immediately placed on a baking-sheet, and put in the
oven (at very moderate heat); about a quarter of an hour will suffice to
bake them. When done, they should be of a very light yellow color.
Note.—With the same kind of batter, and by using a biscuit-forcer,*
the shape of these small biscuits may be easily varied according to taste
or fancy.
1277. PLUM CAKE.
Ingredients required :—One pound and a half of flour, one pound
and a half of butter, one pound of fine sugar, one pound of dried
* These biscuit-forcers are also made of tin, resembling a funnel in shape; they hare a
bag of wash-leather, or canvas cloth, affixed round the upper part, with a string running
through the top, which, when the bag is filled with batter, is drawn tight, thus effectu-
ally preventing it from escaping at the upper end, while it is forced out at the point
below. The use of this utensil, however, is objectionable, from the leather or canvaa
contracting a nauseous odor. In other respect* it answers the purpose well enough.


436
CAKES. ♦
cherries (slightly chopped), one pound and a half of currants, one
pound and a half of candied orange, lemon, and citron peel, in equal
quantities,—all these must be cut in small shreds; eight ounces of
ground or pounded almonds, eight whole eggs, the zest or rind of four
oranges (rubbed on a piece of sugar and afterwards scraped off), half
an ounce of ground spices, consisting of cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg,
mixed in equal proportions, half a pint of Cognac brandy, and a tea-
gpoonful of salt.
Place the butter in a large white earthen pan, and work it with a
wooden spoon until it presents the appearance of a creamy substance;
next add gradually the flour, sugar, and the eggs, still continuing to
work the batter the whole of the time. When these have been thor-
oughly mixed, the cherries, currants, candied-peel, ground almonds,
brandy, spices, and salt, must also be added gradually, and as soon as
these ingredients are incorporated with the batter, let the preparation
be poured into a convenient-sized tin hoop (previously lined with double
bands of buttered paper), and placed on a stout-made copper baking-
sheet, with two sheets of buttered paper under the cake, to prevent the
composition from becoming calcined by the heat of the oven. A mod-
erate heat will be sufficient to bake this cake, and care must be taken
not to put any fire under the oven while it is baking, so as to increase
the heat.
These cakes, when baked, should be iced over with sugar in the fol-
lowing manner:—
First, mix eight ounces of very fine pounded almonds with double
that quantity of fine sifted sugar, a little orange-water, and sufficient
whites of eggs to form the whole into a soft paste; spread a coating
of this all over the surface of the cake (after it has become cold); and
when it is hardened by drying, let the whole be iced over with the fol-
lowing preparation :—
Place about six whites of eggs in a convenient-sized basin, add about
one pound and a half of the finest sifted loaf sugar, and work these
well together, with a clean wooden spoon, adding occasionally a little
lemon-juice, until the whole presents the appearance of a very thick yet
comparatively liquid shiny substance of a pure white. Use this icing
to mask the entire surface of the cake, with a coating about a quarter
of an inch thick; allow this to become firmly set, by drying, for which
purpose the cake should be placed in a warm temperature, and kept
covered with a large sheet of paper, to preserve it from dust, &c.
When the icing has become perfectly hard, decorate the top and sides
of the cake with raised ornaments of gum paste, (stamped out from
boards cut for the purpose) and arranged with taste, either in the form
of garlands, wreaths, scrolls, &c.; or else, the cake may be decorated
with piping, using for that purpose some of the icing worked some-
what thicker, by adding to it more sugar and a little prepared guin-
dragon.
When intended for a wedding cake, the ornaments must be all white,
and some blossoms or sprigs—or, even wreaths of orange-flowers,
should also be introduced.
1278. SCOTCH BKEAD.
Ingredients :—One pound of flour, one pound of sugar, one pound
of butter, eight eggs, half a pound of candied lemon, orange, and


BRUSSELS BISCUITS.
437
citron peel in equal proportions, a gill of Cognac brandy, a very little
salt, and four oances of white comfits.
Put the batter in a basin, work it with a wooden spoon until it
presents the appearance of thick cream; then add the flour, sugar,
eggs, and salt, gradually, throwing in a handful of each, and two eggs
at a time; when the whole is thoroughly mixed, the candied peel (cut
in shreds), also the brandy and the rind of two oranges or lemons
(rubbed on sugar) must next be added. This paste should now be
poured into tins of an oblong shape, about two inches deep, spread
with butter, and after the comfits have been strewn over the surface, a
little fine sugar should be shaken over the top previously to placing
them in the oven on baking-sheets : they must be baked of a very light
color.
Note.—This kind of cake is a general favorite*in Scotland, being
served on most occasions, at breakfast, luncheon, or for casual refresh-
ment, aud also with the dessert.
1279. PLAIN SEED CAKE.
Ingredients :—One quartern of dough, six eggs, eight ounces of
sugar, eight ounces of butter, half an ounce of caraway-seeds, and a
teaspoonful of salt.
Spread the dough out on the pastry-slab, then add the whole of the
above-named ingredients, work them well together with the hands, so
as thoroughly to incorporate them with the dough : the eggs should be'
added two at a time.
When the paste is ready, put it into a plain mould (previously spread
with butter), and set it to rise in a warm place. As soon as the \
fermentation has taken place in a satisfactory manner, the cake should
be immediately put into the oven and baked of a light color. When
done, serve it cold for luncheon, or otherwise.
This kind of cake may be varied by introducing raisins, currants, or
candied orange or lemon peel. £
1280. BRUSSELS BISCUITS, OR RUSKS.
Ingredients required :—One pound of flour, ten ounces of butter,
half an ounce of German yeast, four ounces of sugar, four whole eggs,
and four yolks, a teaspoonful of salt, and a gill of cream.
Mix the paste in the manner described for the preparation of the
Compiegite cake, excepting that this must be beaten with the hand on
the slab until it presents an appearance of elasticity; the sponge
should then be added, and after the whole has been well worked onco
more, the paste must be placed in long narrow tins, about two inches
deep, and of about the same width: preparatory to placing the paste
in the moulds, these should be first well floured inside (to prevent
the paste from sticking), then the paste rolled out to their own
length, and about one inch and a half thick, dropped into them, and
set in a warm place to rise. When the paste has sufficiently risen, it
must be gently turned out on' a baking-sheet previously spread with
butter, then egged all over with a soft paste-brush, and baked of a
bright deep-yellow color. When done, cut them up in slices about
a quarter of an inch thick, place them flat on a baking-sheet, and put
tbem again in the oven to acquire a light-yellow color ou both sides.


438 CAKES.
These form a superior kind of rusks, and are well adapted for the
refreshment table at evening parties, or for the breakfast table.
Note.—Rusks may alio be made with brioche-paste, pound cake, or
Savoy cake; in the latter case a few caraway seeds are sometimes
added.
1281. POUND CAKE.
Ingredients required :—One pound of flour, one pound of butter,
one pound of sugar, eight eggs, a wine glass of brandy, a little salt, and
the rind of two oranges or lemons rubbed on sugar.
Place the butter in a basin, and work it with a wooden spoon until
it assumes the appearance of thick cream; then edd the flour, sugar,
and the eggs gradually; when the whole is thoroughly incorporated,
add the brandy, sugar, and salt; mix well together, and bake the cakes
in any kind of mould (previously spread with butter), or in a tin hoop
lined with buttered paper.
Plumbs, currants, almonds, pistachio-kernels, candied peel, or dried
cherries may be added.
1282. FLEMISH GAUFFBES.
Ingredients required :—Eight ounces of flour, six ounces of butter,
six eggs, one ounce of yeast, half a pint of milk, half a pint of cream
(whipped), the rind of two oranges rubbed on sugar, or a stick of vanilla
pounded with half an ounce of sugar, and a little salt.
Put the flour into a gallon-sized basin, spread it out in the centre,
then add the milk (with the yeast dissolved in it over the fire until the
whole becomes tepid) ; mix these gradually and thoroughly; then take
the spoon out, scrape the sides of the basin with a knife, cover it with
paper, and set the batter to rise in the screen. When the sponge has
increased to twice its quantity, the butter should first be merely melted
by the fire, and then added with the salt, orange sugar, and two
whole eggs; mix these well in with the sponge, then add the whipped
cream andfhe yolks of the four eggs, and lastly, after having whipped
the four whites into a substantial froth, mix them lightly in with the
batter, and again set it to rise in a warm place, either on the top of the
screen or on the kitchen table, that it may rise to twice its original
quantity.
While the batter is being prepared, let the graw^Ve-irons be heated
over the flame of a charcoal fire, and when sufficiently hot to admit of
their baking the gauffres, run a little clarified butter through them
with a paste-brush, then fill one side of the irons with some of the
batter, handling it gently with a spoon; close the irons, and then turn
them upside down (that the batter may run into the opposite side), and
set them over the flame of the charcoal fire, and when done of a bright-
yellow color on one side, turn the irons over, that the gauffres may be
baked also on the other side. They must then be turned out of the
irons, aud after the edges have been trimmed with a pair of scissors,
set them in the oven or before a fire on a baking-sheet covered with
paper. Repeat this until the whole of the batter be used up; then,
shake some orange, lemon, or vanilla sugar over them, pile them up
neatly on a napkin, and serve.
These gauffres are generally served as % remove in the second
course.


410 NOUGATS.
1285. NOUGATS.
Ingredients required:—Two pounds of Jordan almonds, and one
pound of sifted sugar.
Scald the almonds, remove the skins, and after they have been
washed and dried in a napkin, split each almond into halves; then
place them on a baking-sheet, and put them in a slow oven to acquire
a very light fawn color. While the almonds are undergoing this
process in the oven, place the sugar in a convenient-sized sugar-boiler,
and stir it with a wooden spoon over a slow fire to melt it: as soon as
it is entirely dissolved, and begins to form small purling bubbles on
the surface, the almonds (which by this time should be ready and quite
hot) must be instantly thrown in, and very gently mixed with the sugar,
care being taken not to break or bruise them. The vessel contain-
ing the nougat should be kept at the entrance of the oven or near the
stove-fire, so as to prevent its becoming cold before it is used up. The
mould intended to be used must then be first carefully oiled inside with
a paste-brush, and set to drain on a plate that the superfluous oil may
run off. Some of the nougat should now be dropped on a slightly-
oiled baking-sheet, and spread out with a lemon to the thickness of
about the eighth of an inch; and as these pieces are thus spread or
pressed out, they must be immediately placed in the mould, and
pressed into its form with the assistance of the fingers and a lemon,
and made to adhere effectually to each other; great celerity must be
used in this part of the operation, as in the event of the nougat being
allowed to become brittle by cooling, it would be found impossible to
build it up, unless by melting it, which is seldom found to succeed.
When the nougat has become set by cooling, turn it out of the mould,
and serve it on a napkin or upon an ornamental stand.
The foregoing proportions, as well as the directions for splitting the
almonds, refer only to large nougats; when it is intended to make a
smaller one, the almonds should be shred. In all cases, the proportion
of almonds and sugar should be as two of the former to one of the
latter. For the purpose of varying their appearance, as soon as the
nougat is turned out of the mould, some shred pistachio-kernels and
rough granite-sugar,* should be strewed over its surface.
1286. PARISIAN NOUGATS.
Ingredients required:—Eight ounces of pistachio-kernels, four
ounces of sugar, and one stick of vanilla.
Scald the pistachios, remove the skins, absorb all the moisture by
gently rubbing them in a napkin, then split each kernel into halves,
and put them to dry ou a baking-sheet in the screen. Pound the
vanilla with one ounce of sugar, sift it, and then put this and the four
ounces of pounded sugar into a small sugar-boiler, together with a
tea-spoonful of the prepared extract of cochineal: stir these over the
stove-fire with a wooden spoon until the sugar is entirely melted, and
as soon as it begins to purl on the surface, immediately, add the
pistachios, and gently mix the whole together, taking care not to
• Granite-sugar is generally prepared by breaking up some loaf-sugar of the finest
quality into very small pieces with the end of a rolling-pin; after sifting away all the
fiue-sugar, the pieces are then pnssed through a colander with large holes. All that
passes through this may be used for the above purpose. But when the granite U
required liner, it must be riddled through a wire sieve.


GENOESE CAKES. 441
braise the pistachios. The nougat must now be spread out in the form
of a square on a baking-sheet or marble slab (previously oiled), to the
thickness of about the eighth part of an inch; some roaghly-broken
granite sugar should be strewed over the surface, and before it becomes
cold, the square must be divided into two bands, and then again each
of these cut in about a dozen small oblong nougats. When about to
send to table, pile them up in close circular rows on a napkin, and
serve.
1287. SMALL NOUGATS, A LA CHANTILLY.
Ingredients required :—Three-quarters of a pound of ripe filberts,
and six ounces of pounded sugar.
Scald the nuts, remove the skin, then split each kernel in four—
lengthwise, and put them to dry on a baking-sheet in the oven; mean-
while, stir the sugar in the boiler over the fire in the usual manner, and
as soon as it is ready, mix in the above; have half a dozen small da-
rioJe-moulds ready, oiled inside, put some of the nougat into each of
the moulds, and use a small stick made of hard wood (about half an
inch in diameter) to work the nougat up the sides, or into the flutes of
the moulds; pare away all that may rise above the edge of the
moulds, and then turn them out on to a baking-sheet. About eighteen
will suffice for a dish. Several persons should assist in moulding these
nougats, in order to insure their all being of one color; otherwise,
from being frequently obliged to warm the nougat, it is liable to be-
come dark.
When about to send these nougats to table, each should be filled
with some whipped cream flavored with vanilla or maraschino, and a
few strawberries (when in season) placed on the top; dish them up
neatly in a pyramidal form on a napkin.
1288. GENOESE CAKES.
Ingredients required:—Half a pound of flour, half a pound of
sugar, half a pouud of butter, four eggs, a small glass of brandy, and
a little salt.
Mix the flour, sugar, eggs, brandy, and salt well together in a basin
with a wooden spoon; then add the butter (merely melted by the side
of the fire), and when this is thoroughly incorporated with the batter,
pour it into an appropriate-sized baking-sheet, previously spread with
batter, to the thickness of about a quarter of an inch, and bake this in
an oven moderately heated.
When the Genoese paste is done, it should be turned out upon a
ebeet of paper, and cut or stamped out, either in circular, oblong, oval,
angular, leaf-like, or any other fancy shapes that taste may suggest.
These may then be decorated with white of egg and sugar prepared as
for meringues (No. 1298), or with icing prepared as directed for wed-
ding cakes (No. 1277), and ornamented with pistachio-kernels, cur-
rants, &c Those cut in the form of leaves, rings, oblongs, Ac, may
be ornamented by forming a design composed of leaves and pearls
(using for that purpose some meringue-paste in a paper cornet, or
small biscuit-forcer); when the Genoese cakes are ornamented in this
manner, shake some fine sugar over them with a dredger, and dry them
either in the screen or at the entrance of the oven; then, finish decor-
ating them by placing some neat stripes or dots of any kind of bright


442
CAKES.
preserve, such as red-currant jelly, apple jelly, apricot jam, green-gage
jam, &c, between the leaves or pearls of the white of egg decoration.
By these means a very pretty effect is produced, and as do artificial or
unwholesome substance is used in the composition, it may be partaken
of with safety.
1289. GENOESE CAKES, WITH ALMOND3.
Prepare these as directed in the foregoing case, and when they are
nearly done, mask the surface with the white of an egg beat up with
an ounce of sifted sugar; then strew four ounces of chopped almonds,
mixed with two ounces of sugar, and a few drops of orange-flower
water, all over the coating of egg; shake a little sugar on the top of
this, and put the Genoese cakes back again in the oven, to finish bak-
ing. When done, the coating of almonds should be of a light-fawn
color; they must then be carefully removed from the baking-sheet, cut
or stamped out in shapes, according to fancy, and dished up on a nap-
kin, in a pyramidal form.
* 1290. MADELEINES.
These are made with the same kind of batter as Genoese cakes, to
which currants, dried cherries, candied peel, or angelica may be added.
When the batter is ready, let it be poured into a sufficient number of
small fluted or plain dariole or madelaine moulds (previously buttered
inside); these must be placed on a baking-sheet spread with some
charcoal ashes, to the depth of half an inch, and then baked in an oven
of a moderate heat. When they are done, turn them out of the moulds,
and dish them up in a pyramidal form.
These cakes may also be partially emptied, then filled up with some
kind of preserve, and the small circular piece, removed previously to
taking out the crumb, should be replaced.
1291. SPANISH CAKES, PETITS-CHOUX.
Ingredients required:—Half a pint of milk or water, four ounces
of butter, two ounces of sugar, five ounces of flour, three eggs, a few
drops of essence of orange, a very little salt, and two ounces of chop-
ped almonds.
Put the water, butter, sugar, and the salt into a stewpan on the fire,
and as soon as these begin to boil, withdraw the stewpan from the fire,
and add the flour; stir the whole well together with a wooden spoon
over the stove-fire for about three minutes, by which time the ingre-
dients should present the appearance of a soft compact paste. The
essence of orange (or auy other kind of flavor) should now be added,
and also one egg; incorporate these with the paste, then mix in the
other two eggs, and if the paste should be stiff, another egg, or a yolk
only, may be added. This paste should now be laid out on a baking-
sheet in small round balls, the size of a pigeon's egg, egged over with
a paste-brush, some chopped almonds (mixed with a spoonful of
pounded sugar, and a very small quantity of white of egg) strewn
upon them, with some sifted sugar shaken over, and then baked of a
very light color.
These cakes may be served plain, or garnished inside with cream, or
some kind of preserve.


MECCA LOAVES. 443
1292. DUCHESS LOAVES.
These are made of the same kind of paste as the foregoing; this
must be laid oat on the pastry-slab, in small pieces about the size of
a pigeon's egg, then rolled out with a little flour, in the form of a
finger, and placed in order upon a baking-sheet spread with butter;
they should now be egged over, and baked of a bright light color.
Just before they are quite done, shake some finely-sifted sugar over
them, set them back again in the oven until the sugar is nearly melted,
and then pass the red-hot salamander over them, to give them a bright
glossy appearance; the loaves must now be immediately withdrawn
from the oven, and allowed to cool. Just before sending this kind of
pastry to table, make an incision down the sides, and fill the small
loaves with apricot-jam, then dish them up in a pyramidal form on a
napkin, and serve.
1293. PETTITS-CHOUX,* WITH CARAMEL
Prepare these as the above, except that they must be rolled and
baked in the form of round balls, which, when done, should be about
the size of an egg. About two ounces of roughly-chopped pistachios,
a few cleaned currants, and an equal proportion of loaf sugar, chopped
small, should be mixed together on a plate; then boil about four
ounces of sugar, first dipping each petit-choux slightly in this, then
gently roll in the prepared pistachios, &c, so as to mask its surface
•with these. When the whole have been thus passed in the sugar-
caramel, allow them to cool previously to dishing them up.
1294. PROFITBOLLES
Prepare two dozen petits-choux as directed in the first part of the
foregoing article; when they are baked and have become cold, cut a
circular piece from the top of each, about the size of a shilling; then
fill them with some custard, prepared as follows:—Put the yolks of
four eggs into a small stewpan, with two ounces of ponnded sugar, a
good table-spoonful of flour, two ounces of grated chocolate, and a
very little salt; mix these well together with half a pint of cream,
add a small pat of butter, then stir the whole over the stove-fire, and
allow it to boil' for about ten minutes; this custard should now be
passed through a tammy (with pressure) into a basin, and when it has
become cold, three table-spoonfuls of whipped cream should be added;
then serve.
This custard may also be flavored either with lemon, orange, vanilla,
orange-flower, or any kind of liqueur ; in which case the chocolate must
be omitted.
1295. MECCA LOAVES.
The paste for these is prepared as in the foregoing cases, with the
addition, however, of a few spoonfuls of whipped cream, which must
only be incorporated just previously to the loaves being laid out on
the baking-sheet in the following manner:—
Take a table-spoon, and fill it half full from the stewpan, containing
the paste; then dip the point of a knife in some beaten egg, and use
it to force the pastt from the spoon, gently dropping it on the baking-
* Pronounced by English cooks, "Petty-shoes."


MERINGUES. 445
Dried cherries, sultana raisins, currants, any kind of candied peel,
pistachios or Spanish nuts, may be added. The cakes may also bo
flavored with any kind of essence or liqueur.
MERINGUES.
Ingredients required:—One pound of sifted sugar, and twelve
whites of egg.
Whisk the whites in an egg-bowl until they present the appearance
of a perfectly white, smooth, substantial froth, resembling snow; then
substitute a spoon for the whisk, and proceed to mix in the whole of
the sugar, lightly; carefully avoid working the batter too much, for
fear of rendering it soft, as in that case it becomes difficult to mould the
meringues; they can never be so gracefully shaped as when it is kept
firm. Next, cut some stiff foolscap paper into bands about two inches
wide; then take a table-spoon, and gather it nearly full of the batter,
by working it up at the side of the bowl in the form of an egg, and
drop this slopingly upon one of the bands of paper, at the same
time drawing the edge of the spoon sharply round the outer base of
the meringue, so as to give to it a smooth and rounded appearance, in
order that it may exactly resemble an egg. Proceed in this manner
until the band is full, keeping the meringues about two inches and a
half apart from each other on the paper; as each band is filled, place
them close beside each other on the slab or table, and when all the
batter is used up, shake some rather coarse sifted sugar all over them,
and allow it to remain for about three minutes; then take hold of one
of the bands at each end, shake off the loose sugar, and place the band
of meringues on the board :* and so on with the other bands, which
when placed carefully on the boards closely side by side, must be put
in the oven (at very moderate heat) and baked of a light-fawn color.
When done, each piece of meringue must be carefully removed from
off the paper, the white part of the inside scooped out with a dessert
spoon, and then nicely smoothed over; after this, they must be placed
in neat order on a baking-sheet, and put back again in the oven
to dry, taking particular care that they do not acquire any more
color.
When about to send the meringues to table, whip some double cream,
season it with a little pounded sugar, and either a glass of any kind of
liqueur, a few drops of orange-flower water, or some pounded vanilla;
garnish each piece with a spoonful of this cream join two together,
dish them up in a pyramidal form on a napkin, and serve.
Note.—Meringues may be made of all sizes, and may also be shaped
in the form of small bunches of grapes : for this purpose it is necessary
to use a "cornet," or biscuit-forcer, of paper, to mould the berries.
In order to vary their appearance, previously to shaking the sugar over
them, some finely-shred pistachios or almonds, rough granite sugar, and
small currants, may be strewn over them. They may also be garnished
with preserve, or any kind of iced-creams.
* These boards must be made of seasoned wood, and should be about an inch thiok;
their site must of course depend upon the dimensions of the oven, allowing sufficient
room for them to be turned round in it.


446
BISCUITS.
1298fl. ITALIAN BISCUITS.
Ingredients :—Six eggs, eight ounces of pounded sugar, five ounces
of flour, some orange or lemon sugar for flavoring, a pinch of salt, and
six ounces of chopped almonds.
First, divide the yolks from the whites of the six eggs, placing the
whites in an egg-bowl, and the yolks in a basin; add the sugar, the
flavoring, and the salt, to the yolks, and with a wooden spoon continue
working these until they present the appearance of a rather stiff creamy
batter. Then add half the flour, and when this has been well mixed in,
let the six whites previously whipped firm, be also lightly mixed in,
together with the remainder of the flour, taking care to keep the batter
as firm and light as possible.
You now fill a biscuit-forcer with some of the batter, and then pro-
ceed to gently force out the batter on to the baking-sheets (previously
buttered and floured for the purpose), in round or oval shapes, twice
the size of a five-shilling piece; and when the whole of the batter is used
up in this manner, let the chopped almonds be equally strewn over the
biscuits; and, after some sugar has been shook over their surface with
a dredger-box, they must be baked of a very light color, in a rather
slack oven.
These cakes are most appropriate for dessert; but, when made of the
size of a five-shilling piece, by first spreading any kind of fruit, jam,
on the under part, and sticking two of thera together, they may be
neatly dished up, for a second-course dish, with some whipped cream
in the centre.
1298J. VENETIAN BISCUITS.
First prepare some Genoese as directed at No. 1289, which, when
cold, must be carefnlly split in convenient-sized pieces, and after spread-
ing the insides with apricot-jam, let them be pressed together again.
Tou next spread a thin coating of white icing on one square of
Genoese, and then spread a similar coating of pink icing on the other
square; after which, each square must be cut into small oblong shapes
of equal sizes; and when the icing has become dry, may be dished up,
either for a second-course dish, or for dessert.
1298c. SWEDES.
Ingredients :—One pound of pounded sugar, twelve ounces of finely-
shred almonds, four ounces of flour, a stick of vanilla (pounded and
sifted), and one whole egg, and the white of another. Let the whole
of the fore-named ingredients be well mixed together in a basin, and
then with a tablespoon proceed to mould the preparation into round
balls the size of a large walnut, which are to be placed on pieces of
sheet-wafer, previously cut to the size of half-crown pieces; these
must now be placed on baking-Bheets, and after slightly shaking some
fine sugar over them, are to be baked of a light color iu a slack
oven.
These cakes may also be finished in manner following: the prepa-
ration should be spread about half an inch thick npon sheet-wafer, and
after being baked of a light color, and immediately on its being taken
from the oven, should be cut into leaf-like shapes, and beat over a roll-
ing pin, till the pieces become cold and crisp.


* riscuits. 447
These cakes may be served either for dessert or a second-course
dish; in the latter case, some whipped cream mast be placed in the
centre of the dish.
1298d. BROWN BREAD BISCUITS.
Ingredients :—One pound of pounded sugar, eight ounces of
brown flour, six ounces of Jordan almonds, ground or pulverized with-
out being blanched or divested of their brown pellicule, six drops of
the essence of bitter almonds, and one dozen eggs.
Break the eggs, placing the yolks in a basin, and the whites in an
egg-bowl; add the sugar, flour, almonds, and the flavoring to the
yolks, and work these well together for twenty minutes with a wooden
spoon; then mix in the whites previously whisked firm for the purpose,
and with this batter proceed to fill as many small oblong or square
paper, cases as you may require for the purpose; which after they
have been sugared over, should be baked in a very moderate oven.
These biscuits are adapted for dessert only.
1298e. GINGER CAKES.
Ingredients :—One pound of flour, twelve ounces of fresh butter,
twelve ounces of pounded sugar, two ounces of ground Jamaica Ginger,
eight yolks of eggs.
Work the whole of the above-named ingredients together on a
pastry-board or slab; and, after having gathered the paste up into a
compact mass, separate it into four parts, roll these out to the thick-
ness of the sixth of an inch, one after the other, and with a tin-cutter,
either oval, round, &c, &c, cut out as many cakes as the paste will
produce, and place them on a slightly-buttered baking-sheet, pass a
paste-brush over them when they are about half done, shake some
sugar over them, and set them back in the oven to finish baking, of a
very light color.
1298/. CHAMPAGNE BISCUITS.
Ingredients :—Eight ounces of flour, eight ounces of pounded
sugar, eight ounces of fresh butter, eight eggs, a quarter of an ounce of
carraway seeds, a pinch of salt.
Place the butter in a basin, and work it with a wooden spoon until
it presents the appearance of thick cream; you then add the sugar,
flour, yolks of eggs, the carraway seeds and the salt gradually; after
which mix in the eight whites of eggs previously whisked firm for the
purpose. You now procure a sheet of stout cartridge-paper, which
must be folded in reversed plaits so that when the paper is opened,
it may present the appearance of the plaits of a fan, thus forming
angular trenches about an inch deep. Next fill a biscuit-forcer with
some of the batter, and proceed to force out some finger-like biscuits
into the aforesaid paper trenches of about three inches long; shake
some sifted sugar over these, and bake them of a light color in a very
moderate oven.
These cakes are fit only for dessert.
1298^. ORANGE BISCUITS.
These are made with the same kind of batter as described in the
foregoing article, omitting in this case the carraway seeds, and sub-


448 BISCUITS.'
utituting in their place some orange-sugar and candied-orange-peel
cut into small shreds; some very small moulds must be slightly
buttered, filled with some of the batter, some sugar sifted over them,
and then baked of a very light color in a very moderate oven.
1298A. PEACH BISCUITS.
Prepare some butter as directed for fingers (No. 1276), and, with
this, proceed to form some small round biscuits (using a biscuit-forcer
for that purpose) on a baking or sheet of paper; if the former, it must
be previously buttered and floured, shake some sugar over the biscuits,
and bake them of a very light color; and when they are done, and
removed from the baking-sheet or paper, spread the under parts with
some kind of preserved fruit (peach marmalade being most appro-
priate), stick two of these together; thus forming as nearly as possible
the shape and size of a peach, these must now be very thinly covered
all over with some white icing, which, when dry, must be very slightly
brushed over with a soft pencil-brush dipped in a very small quantity
of carmine, thereby giving to the cake merely a tinge of color
similar to that displayed by the ripe peach. These cakes may be
dished up with whipped cream in the centre of the dish.
1298t. APRICOT BISCUITS.
•
These are prepared in all respects according to directions given in
the preceding article, excepting that they should be made smaller,—
so that they may form a near resemblance to apricots in size and
form, apricot jam being used to stick them together with; and when
so far prepared, are to be dipped in the following preparation :—To
one pound of fine loaf sugar placed in a sugar-boiler, add half a pint
of spring-water; boil these over a brisk stove-fire until the sugar
while boiling throws up pearl-like bubbles; the degree of boiling
required for glazing being ascertained by taking a small quantity of
the boiling sugar between the fore-finger and thumb (previously
dipped in cold water), and if the sugar when pressed with the- fingers
presents the appearance of strong glue, it should then be removed
from the fire, and ten minutes afterward, whatever flavoring is
intended to be used, must be in a liquid state, such as liqueurs, strong
vailla, orange or lemon syrups or infusions: any one of the foregoing
must be gradually mixed in with the boiled sugar, quickly stirring
and working the sugar in the pan the while; and when thoroughly
mixed, the cakes should be dipped in—and being afterward placed on
a wire drainer, placed in the hot closet for a few minutes to set.
The yellow tinge required for the glaces in this case may be given
by using either some orange-sugar or a small decoction of saffron ; the
latter is objectionable, on account of its flavor.
1298k. CHOCOLATE GLACES.
The foundation for these may be made either of pound-cake, Ge-
noese, or song-cake ; the batter for making either of the foregoing may
be first baked in a baking-sheet, and afterward cut out in shapes and
sizes to suit taste or convenience; or otherwise may be baked in ap-
propriate moulds or cases for the purpose; they must then be dipped
in the following preparation :—First, boil the sugar as directed in the
foregoing article, and when it has reached its proper degree, add 'six


SICILIAN BISCUITS. 449
ounces of chocolate dissolved with a wine-glassful of water; work the
whole well together, and use it while hot; but, if it should become
cold, aud set before the operation is terminated, the preparation may
be easily liquified by stirring it over the fire.
Cakes both large and small may be glaces, or glazed, in this manner
in almost infinite variety, by using any kind of liqueur, or a very strong
infusion of tea or coffee instead of the chocolate here recommended.
1298?. SUISSE LECRELETS.
Ingredients :—Eight ounces of honey, four ounces of sweet-almonds,
blanched aud shred, half an ounce of cinnamon-powder, a quarter of an
ouuce of ground cloves, half a nutmeg grated, six ounces of pounded
sugar, half an ounce of carbonate of potash, six ounces of candied
orange, lemon aud citron, a wine-glassful of Kirschen-wasser, ditto of
orange-flower-water, and the grated rind of two lemons, one pound of
flour, including the quantity required to manipulate the paste on the
slab.
Pnt the honey in a copper egg-bowl on the stove-fire, and when it is
melted, skim off the froth, and immediately add the shred almonds, the
ground spices, and the grated lemon-peel; mix these well together
with a wooden spoon, and then add the sugar, the Kirschen-wasser,
the orange-flower-water, and the candied peels ready shred for the
purpose; and, after having mixed in these, theu add the carbonate of
potash dissolved in a table-spoonful of water, and also fourteen ounces
of flour, leaving the remainder for manipulating the paste on the slab).
This paste must now be gently stirred over the fire for three or four
minutes longer, and then placed in a covered pan in a cool place for
three days previously to its being used; the further process must be
directed as follows :—
Cut the Lecrelet-paste into four equal parts; and, after having first
strewn the slab with some of the flour reserved for the purpose, roll out
each of the four pieces to about the eighth part of an inch thick; these
squares must now be placed on baking-sheets, previously buttered and
floured for the purpose; and, after being deeply marked out or cut
into small oblong-squares, must be rubbed over with a paste-brush
dipped in water to remove the flour from the surface. Next, bake tho
Lecreleta in a rather slack oven of a light color, and when they are
about three" parts done, let them be nearly cut through into shape, and
immediately they have been brushed over with some thin white icing,
replace them in the oven to finish being baked. When the Lccrelets
have been withdrawn from the oven a sufficient time to have become
cold, break them up as marked out, and put them away in a tin box in
a dry place. v
These cakes are well adapted for dessert, luncheon, or as a pleasant
adjunct for the supper-tray.
1298m. SICILIAN BISCUITS.
Ingredients :—Four eggs, twelve ounces of pounded sugar, ten
ounces of flour, a stick of vanilla pounded.
Whisk the eggs, the sugar, and the vanilla together in a copper egg-
bowl, over a very slow stove-fire until the batter begins to feel warm;
it must then be removed from off the fire, and whisked briskly until the
28


450 CAKES.
batter becomes cold; the flour must now be lightly added in, and when
thoroughly mixed, must be shaped upon a prepared baking-sheets with
the aid of a biscuit-forcer, in fingers, ovals or rounds; sugared over
similarly to finger or Naples biscuits, and baked in a slack oven.
1298n. RUSSIAN BISCUITS.
Ingredients :—Eight ounces of pounded sugar, ten eggs, six ounces
of flour, four ounces of almonds pounded and dried over the fire in a
sugar-boiler, quarter of an ounce of aniseed.
Let the yolks of the eggs and the stgar be whisked together in an
egg-bowl over a slow-fire, until they present the appearance of a thick
batter; the whites, previously'whisked firm, must now be lightly added,
as also the flour, pounded almonds, and the aniseed. The batter thus
produced, may either be baked in small moulds, or as is most appro-
priate for these biscuits, they should be baked in long tin moulds, or,
failing these, in stout paper cases, ten inches long by three inches deep,
and two and a half inches wide. When the last named are baked, and
have been allowed to become thoroughly cold, cut them into rather
thin slices, which, being placed on baking-sheets, should be again baked
of a very light color on both sides.
1298o. ALBERT BISCUITS.
- Ingredients :—Ten ounces of pounded sugar, eight ounces of finely-
chopped ulmuuds, six ounces of flour, twelve yolks and fourteen whites
of eggs, two ounces of candied orange-peel shred fine, a tea-spoonful
of cinnamon-powder, half that quantity of ground cloves, and a little
grated lemou-rind.
Work the sugar and the almonds with the yolks and two whites of
eggs, for twenty minutes, then incorporate the remaining twelve whites
firmly whisked together with the flour, candied peel, and spices. Next,
pour the batter into a convenient-sized paper case, and bake it in a
moderate oven; and, when done and sufficiently cold, let it be cut up
into thin slices for dishing up.
This preparation may also be baked in small moulds, or forced ont
upon paper or baking-sheets previously buttered and floured for the
purpose.
1298p. VICTORIA BISCUITS.
Ingredients :—One pound of pounded sugar, twelve ounces of dried
flour, six ounces of pounded or ground bitter almonds, six ounces of
fresh butter, a wine-glassful of Kirschen-was&er, and the rind of two
lemons grated.
First, let the butter be worked up in a basin with a wooden spoon,
until it assumes a creamy appearance; then add the remainder of the
ingredients, finishing with the Kirschen-wasser; and when the batter
is ready, pour it into small moulds, ready buttered and interiorly coated
with potato flour. When these cakes or biscuits are baked of a very
light color, first, spread the surface with orange marmalade, and over
this glaze them according to directions given for finishing Apricot
biscuits.


451
SMALL PASTRY IN GENERAL,
ooMPRianra
Fanthonntttee . Puff-paste Walnuts.
Cheesecakes. Bread-and-Butter Pastry.
Mirlitone. Puff-paste Rings, or Wreaths.
Pithlcim Cakes. Palish Cakes.
D'Artoit Cake. Harry the VIII.'s Shoestrings.
German Ttmrtc of Apricots. Puff-pnste Plaits.
Parisian Turnover of Apples. Apple Tartlets.
Dariole: Cherry Tartlets.
Condi Cakes. Puff-paste Tartlets.
Royals. Mosaic Tartlets.
D'Artoit of Apricots. Parisian Loaves.
Apricot Nougate . Marygolds.
Pastry Custard, or Cream. Filbert-cream Tartlets.
Talmoutee . Coventry Tartlets.
Talmoutes, with Cheese. Apple Tart, with Quince.
Florentine: l'esir, Tart.
Cupid's or Lore's Wells. Fruit Tarts in general.
1299. FANCHONNETTES.
Prepare some pastry custard in the manner directed for the profi'
trolles (No. 1294), season it either with two ounces of grated chocolate,
an infusion of coffee, a glass of liqueur, or a few drops of some kind of
essence, such as orange-flower, vanilla, bitter almonds, or lemon;
when this is ready, fill two dozen plain-lined tartlets with it; bake
these of a light color, and when done, take them out of the moulds,
and lay them flat upon the marble slab to cool. Meanwhile, whip
three whites of eggs quite firm, then mix in three ounces of pounded
sugar, and use some of this to mask thefanchonnet/es over with, giving
to them a flat smooth surface; next, with a cornet filled with some of
the whites of egg, form a star, or some other design on the top ; when
• they are all done, shake some sifted sugar over them, put them on a
baking-sheet, and bake them of a very light-fawn color. When they
are baked, previously to dishing them up, ornament them, by placing
some neat strips of bright currant or apple-jelly in between the folds
of the decoration.
These/anchonnetles may be infinitely varied, by altering their form
and design, when masking them with the whipped whites of eggs,
according to taste and fancy. Strips of pistachios, almonds, or cur-
rants may also be used for this purpose.
1300. CHEESECAKES.
Ingredients required :—Eight ounces of pressed curd, two ounces
of ratafias, six ounces of sugar, two ounces of butter, six yolks of eggs,
some grated nutmeg, a little salt, the rind of two oranges or lemons,
rubbed on sugar, and afterward scraped off.
Press the curd in a napkin to absorb the superfluous moisture, then
pound it thoroughly in a mortar, and mix in the above-named ingre-
dients; when the whole is incorporated together into a kind of soft
paste, take this up in a basin. Next, line two dozen or more tartlet-


452 SMALL PASTRY.
pans with some well-worked trimmings of puff-paste, garnish these
with the cheese-custard, place a strip of candied peel on the top of each,
pat them on a baking-sheet, and then set them in the oven (at mode-
rate heat), to be baked of a very light-brown color; when done, shake
a little sifted sugar over them, and serve them quite hot.
Currants, dried cherries, sultanas or citron, may be used instead of
the candied peel.
1301. MIRLITONS.
Ingredients required:—Puff-paste, trimmings, three whole eggs,
three ounces of sugar, one ounce of ratifias, half an ounce of candied
orange-flowers, one ounce of butter, and a little salt.
Put the above into a basin having a spout: the ratafias and orange-
flowers must be bruised, and the butter merely melted; work the
whole well together with a wooden spoon, until the batter presents
the appearance of a rich creamy-looking-substance, it must then be
instantly poured into two dozen small deep tartlets, lined with puff-
paste trimmings; shake a rather thick coating of sifted sngar over
the mirlitons, and when it has nearly melted on their surface, put
them in the oven (at very moderate heat), and bake them of a light-
fawn color. When the mirlitons are done, the centre should rise out
from the tartlet to the height of about half an inch, resembling the
crown of a boy's cap.
These cakes may also be flavored with chocolate, grated previously
to its being added to the preparation; or with pistachios or almonds,
both of these must be pounded first: they may also be flavored with
different essences. Previously to pouring the batter into the tartlets
a spoouful of apricot or pine-apple-jam may be placed in them.
1302. PITHIVIERS CAKES.
Ingredients required :—Half a pound of puff-paste, eight ounces
of almonds or nuts, six ounces of sugar, four ounces of butter, two
ounces of ratafias, a spoonful of orange-flower-water, the yolks of four
eggs, and a very little salt.
First, pound the almonds with a little white of egg, until they be-
come pulverized; then add the remainder of the ingredients, and
pound the whole well together until thoroughly incorporated, when it
should present the appearance of a rather soft creamy paste; take
this up in a basin.
While the above preparation is going on, half a pound of puff-paste
should be made, to which seven turns or foldings must be given;
take two-thirds of this, and knead, or rather fold it, by twisting over
the corners, so as to form it into a cushion; knead the other piece in
a similar manner, and then roll them both out in a circular or oval
form, to the size of a small dish or dessert plate; place the thinnest
piece on a baking-sheet, wet round the edges with a paste-brush
dipped in water, fill the whole of the centre with a layer of Pithiviers
cream, about an inch thick, and place the other piece of puff-paste
over the top of this; press it all round the edge, by bearing on it with
the thumb of the right hand; then trim the edges round neatly (in
the manner practised to cut a vol-au-vent), and with the point of a
small knife, handled lightly and freely, sketch or mark out some neat
or elegant design, such as a lyre, a vase of flowers, a helmet with flow-


PARISIAN TURNOVERS OF APPLES. 453
ing mane or feathers, a wreath, or a star, &c Shake some finely-sifted
sugar over the cake, and bake it of the lightest possible color; indeed,
it should be free from any color, the characteristic appearance of
this kind of pastry being its whiteness. Pithimers cake should be
eaten cold.
These cakes may also be made in tartlet moulds, thinly lined with
puff-paste, and after being neatly filled with the Pithiviers cream (the
edges being previously wetted round), the mould must be covered in
with circular pieces of puff-paste, stamped out with a cutter to fit them;
then fastened down by pressing the two pieces of paste together with
the forefinger and thumb of the right hand, and finished aud baked as
directed in the foregoing case.
1303. d'artois cake.
Puff-paste or large D'Artois cakes, prepared as directed in the
foregoing cases, may be garnished either with apple marmalade, mince-
meat, or any kind of preserve; in this case, however, when the cake
has been covered in with the puff-paste, previously to marking out the
design on its surface, it must be egged over with a paste-brnsh; when
it has been baked of a bright-yellow color, shake some'finely-sifted
sugar over it, after which put it back again in the oven for a minute or
two, and then pass the red-hot salamander over it to give it a bright
glossy appearance. The same direction applies to the smaller D'Artois
lakes.
1304. GERMAN TOURTE OF APRICOTS.
Cut a dozen ripe apricots into quarters, and put them into a small
sugar-boiler or stewpan, with the kernels extracted from the stones,
four ounces of pounded sugar, and a spoonful of water; stir this over
the stove-fire until the fruit is dissolved into a jam, and then withdraw
the stewpan from the fire.
Roll out some trimmings of puff-paste, or else about half a pound of
short paste, to the diameter of about eight inches, place this on a cir-
cular baking-sheet, and with the forefinger and thumb of the right
hand, twist the paste round the edges so as to raise it in imitation of
cording; then cut up a dozen ripe apricots into quarters, and place
these in close circular rows on the paste, shake some sifted sugar
(mixed with some rind of lemon) over the apricots, and then bake the
tourte (at moderate heat); when it is done, pour the marmalade of
apricots over the others, shake some sifted sugar mixed with a tea-
spoonful of cinnamon-powder over the surface, dish the tourte on a
napkin, and serve it either hot or cold.
This kind of tourte may be made of every kind of fruit, the process
in each case being similar to the above—consisting in baking one-half
of the fruit on the paste, while the remainder is added after the tourte
is baked, being first boiled down into a kind of jam for that purpose
Iu all cases, some cinnamon-sugar must be strewn over the surface.
1305. PARISIAN TURNOVER OF APPLES.
Peel about a dozen apples, cut them in quarters, and take out the
cores; after which, put them into a stewpan with eight ounces of
•agar, two ounces of butter, the rind of a lemon rubbed on a piece of
sugar, aud two table-spoonfuls of water; toss the apples over a slow


454 SMALL PASTRY.
fire until they are about half done, and then remove them from the
fire. While the apples are being prepared, roll out a piece of short
paste, in a circular form, the eight!), part of an inch thick, and about
the size of a dinner-plate; wet this round the edge, then fasten *
rolled cord of paste, the thickness of a small finger, within an inch of
the edge, and pile the prepared apples up in the centre in the form of
a dome; then, spread some apricot marmalade over the surface, and
cover the whole in with another circular piece of puff-paste; press
them together round the edges, wet the extremities, then, with the
forefinger and thumb of the right hand, twist or fold the edges over
in the form of a cord; let the turnover now be egged all over with a
soft paste-brush dipped in some beaten white of egg, then strew some
rough granite-sugar over the entire surface, and bake it of a light
color.
These turnovers may also be made with all kinds of plums; the
only difference in their mode of preparation being, that they need not
undergo any dressing previously to placing them in the paste, except
that the stones should be removed: the plums, peaches, or apricots
must be piled up in several rows forming a dome, with some pounded
sugar between each layer, and some of the same kind of fruit the
turnover is made of should be first boiled down to a jam, for the pur-
pose of masking the fruit with, preparatory to its being covered in.
1306. DARIOLES.
Ingredients :—One ounce of flour, two ounces of ponnded sugar,
one ounce of ratafias, three gills of cream, one whole egg and six yolks,
one ounce of candied orange-flowers, a small pat of butter, a very little
salt, half a pound of trimmings of puff-paste.
Place the flour, sugar, the bruised ratafias, and the eggs in a
spouted basin, work the whole well together, and then add the cream,
a very little salt, and a table-spoonful of orange-flower-water, and mix
these in with the batter. Line a dozen dartoie-moulds, with some
trimmings of puff-paste, place these on a baking-sheet, put a very small
bit of butter at the bottom of each dariole, and then, after stirring the
batter well together, pour it into the moulds; strew the candied
orange-flowers on the top of each, and set them in the oven (at mode-
rate heat) to bake. When done, the darioles should be slightly raised
in the centre, and of a light color; take them out of the moulds with-
out breaking them, shake some finely-sifted sugar over them, and serve
them hot.
Darioles may also be flavored with vanilla, lemon, orange, coffee, or
chocolate.
1307. CONDE CAKES.
Chop six ounces of Jordan almonds as fine as possible, mix them
with four ounces of sifted sugar, some grated rind of lemon, and the
white of an egg: the whole should present the appearance of a rather
firm paste. Next, make half a pound of puff-paste, to which give eight
turns or foldings, and roll this out to the thickness of the eighth part
of an inch; then, with a tin cutter, of an oval, circular, crescent, dia-
mond, or any other fancy shape, stamp out about eighteen condes and
place them on a baking-sheet previously wetted over with a paste-
brush to receive them; spread a coating of the prepared chopped


PASTRY CUSTARD. 455
almonds on the surface of each, shake some fine sugar over them with
the dredger, and bake them of a very light-fawn color.
1308. ROYALS.
Mix the whites of two eggs with as much finely-sifted sugar as
they will absorb, so as to form a kind of soft paste; this must be
effected without working it more than is necessary to mix the ingre-
dients together: a few drops of any kind of essence may be added to
flavor the cakes.
Make half a pound of puff-paste, and to finish these cakes, proceed
in all respects as directed in the foregoing article.
1309. d'artois of apricot.
Make one pound of puff-paste, and give it seven turns or foldings;
then, take one-third part of it, and after kneading this well together,
roll.it out to the size of a square baking-sheet, measuring about four-
teen inches by twelve, and lay the paste upon it; next spread a rather
thick layer of apricot-jam over the paste to within about an inch o*
the edges; then, roll out the remainder of the puff-paste to the size of
the baking-sheet, and place it neatly over the surface of the apricot;
fasten it round by pressing upon the edges with the thumb, and trim
the edges by cutting away the superfluous paste from the sides with a
knife. The D'Ariois must now be marked out in small oblong shapes
with the back part of a knife, and after the whole surface has been
egged over, score them over neatly, forming a kind of feather pattern
On each cake. Bake them of a bright light-brown color, and when
they are done, shake some finely-sifted sngar over them out of the
dredger, put them back again into the oven for a minute or two, to
melt the sugar, and then pass the red-hot salamander over them to
give to the pastry a bright glossy appearance. When the D'Artoia
have become sufficiently cold, cut them up, and serve them dished up
in several circular rows piled on a napkin.
Note.—This kind of pastry may also be garnished with Pilhimers-
cream, pastry-custard, apple marmalade, or any other kind of preserve.
1310. APRICOT NOUGATS.
Roll out some trimmings of puff-paste to the thickness of the
eighth of an inch; lay this all over the surface of a baking-sheet,
spread it with a rather thick layer of apricot-jam, and then strew some
shred pistachio kernels or Jordan almonds over this, shake some finely-
sifted sugar over all, and bake them in a very moderately-heated oven.
When done, allow the pastry to cool, and then use any kind of fancy
tin-cutter to stamp them out.
1311. PASTRY CUSTARD, OR CREAM.
Ingredients :—Four ounces of flour, four ounces of sngar, six
yolks of eggs, two ounces of butter, one pint of cream or milk, one
ounce of ratafias, a spoonful of orange-flower-water, and a very little
salt.
Mix the flour, sugar, and salt with two whole eggs, in a stewpan with a
wooden spoon; then add the cream and the butter, and stir the whole
over the stove-fire until it boils; it must then be well worked together,


456 SMALL PASTRY.
so as to make it smooth. Withdraw the spoon, and after putting the
lid on the stewpan, place the cream in the oven, or on a slow stove-
fire partially smothered with ashes, that it may continue to simmer
very gently for about twenty minutes: the cream must then be put
out into a basin, and the bruised ratafias, the yolks of eggs, and the
orange-flower-water must be added; after which put four ounces of
butter into a small stewpan on the fire, and as soon as it begins to
fritter, and has acquired a light-brown color (which gives to it the
sweet flavor of nuts), add this also to the cream, and let the whole
be well mixed.
Use this cream to garnish various kinds of pastry, according to di-
rections given in the several articles for which it is intended.
1312. TALMOUSES
Ingredients required: Half a pint of milk, four ounces of flour,
two ounces of sugar, two ounces of butter, six ounces of cream-curd,
the rind of an orange rubbed on sugar, a very little salt, and half a
pound of pufl-paste.
Put the milk, butter, sugar, and salt, into a stewpan on a stove-fire,
and as soon as these begin to simmer, fill in the flour by stirring the
whole with a wooden spoon for two or three minutes over the fire;
then add the curd (from which all the superfluous moisture must be
extracted by pressing it in a napkin), and work in the eggs one after
the other, remembering that this paste must be kept to about the same
substance as for petits-choux.
Make half a pound of puff-paste, and give it nine turns; roll this
out to the eighth of an inch in thickness, stamp out about two dozen
circular pieces with a tin-cutter about two inches in diameter, and
place them in neat order on a baking-sheet about an inch apart from
each other; then place a good tea-spoonful of the preparation de-
scribed above, in the centre of each, wet these round the edges, and
then turn up the sides so as to form each of them in the shape of a
three-cornered hat; egg them over with a paste-brush, bake them of
a light-brown color, and when they are withdrawn from the oven,
shake some fine sugar over them. These cakes may be served either
hot or cold.
1313. TALMOUSES WITH CHEESE.
These are prepared just as the foregoing, except that the sngar and
rind of orange must be omitted, substituting in their stead four ounces
of scraped Brie, or Neuchatel cheese: when these cannot be procured,
Gruyere or Parmesan cheese may be used for the purpose.
1314. FLORENTINES.
Boll out about half a pound of trimmings of pufF-paste to the
thickness of the eighth of an inch, aud lay this ou the entire surface
of a rather large-sized baking-sheet; spread a thick layer of green-
gage-jam over the paste, and then bake it in an oven of moderate
heat; when done, let it be withdrawn and allowed partially to cool.
Then spread it with a coating of whipped whites of egg mixed with
sugar, about half an inch in thickness, and strew some shred pistachio
kernels all over the surface; shake some finely-sifted sugar over the


BREAD-AND-BUTTER PASTRY. 457
top, and finish baking the Florentines of a very light color, taking
care that the meringue-paste is allowed sufficient time to become per-
fectly crisp. A few minutes after the Florentines are taken out of the
oven, they must be stamped out with a tin-cutter or else cut out with a
knife, in oblong or diamond-shapes.
1315. cupid's, or love's wells.
Give seven turns to half a pound of puff-paste, then roll it out to
the thickness of the sixth part of an inch; stamp out about eighteen
circular pieces from this with a fluted tin-cutter, one inch and a half in
diameter, and place these in rows on a baking-sheet previously wetted
to receive them. Then, stamp out as many more pieces with a smaller
fluted cutter only one inch in diameter, and after stamping out the cen-
tre of these, wet the surface of the others over with a paste-brush, and
lay one of the smaller ones on each of the others; press them down
with the fingers, egg over the tops, and bake them of a bright light
color; when they are nearly done, shake some sugar over them with
the dredger, put them back again into the oven for a minute or two,
and then pass the red-hot salamander over them to give them a bright
glossy appearance, previously to serving these "love's wells," fill them
either with preserve!! cherries, greengage-jam, or currant-jelly.
1316. PUFF-PASTE WALNUTS.
Give seven turns to half a pound of puff-paste, and roll it out to the
thickness of the sixth part of an inch; then stamp out twenty circular
pieces with a fluted cutter, about an inch and a half in diameter, and
after wetting each of these with a paste-brush dipped in water, fold
them up, at the same time pressing the two parts of the paste slightly,
so as to cause them to adhere closely together; they must then be
placed on baking-sheet in rows, egged over, and baked of a bright light
color. Just before they are done, some fine sugar should be shaken
over them with a dredger, and they must then be put back again into
the oven for a little while to melt the sugar; pass the red-hot salaman-
der over, and withdraw them. Previously to serving this kind of pas-
try, a broad strip of red currant or apple-jelly should be placed across
the centre.
1317. BREAD-AND-BUTTER PASTRY.
Give six turns to half a pound of puff-paste, and roll it out to the
thickness of a quarter of an inch; cut this into' bands about three
inches wide, then cut these again into strips rather better than a quar-
ter of an inch wide, and place them (on the cut side) on a baking-sheet
in rows, about two inches apart, so as to allow them sufficient room to
spread out. Bake these strips of paste in a rather sharp oven, and just
before they are done, glaze them; that is, shake some fine sugar over,
and then salamander them. About two dozen of these are required for
a dish: they must be spread with some kind of preserve, and stuck to-
gether in pairs, to imitate bread-and-butter; dish them up on a napkin,
piled up in several circular rows, in a pyramidal form.
This kind of pastry may also be dished up with some stiffly-whipped
cream, seasoned with a glass of liqueur, in the centre.


• APPLE AND CHERRY TARTLETS. 4o9
qnarter of an inch wide. Take four of these strips, and after fastening
them together at one end with a little egg or water, plait them neatly
but rather loosely together, and when finished,fasten the ends: as each
plait is completed, place it on a baking-sheet, and when they are all
ready, egg them over, and bake them of a light color, and when done,
let them be glazed as usual. Just before sending these cakes to table,
decorate them by placing in the small cavities some dots of bright
currant or apple-jelly, and some greengage-jam.
1322. APPLE TARTLETS.
Make half a pound of tart-paste (No. 1255), roll it out rather thin;
then stamp out twenty circular flats, with a fluted cutter suited to the
size of the tartlets, and use them to line the moulds; fill each tartlet
with a spoonful of apple-marmalade, cover them in with a mosaic* of
paste, egg them over, place them on a baking-sheet, and bake them of
a light color; when done, shake some fine sugar over them, and use the
red-hot salamander, to give them a glossy appearance.
1323. APPLE TARTLETS, ANOTHER METHOD.
Line the tartlet-pans as above, then garnish them with halves of
small apples, previously turned and divested of the cores, and after-
wards parboiled in a little syrup in which the juice of a lemon has beeu
squeezed; bake the tartlets, and when they are done, dilute some
apricot-jam with a little of the syrup; use this to mask the apples in
the tartlets, and then place a preserved cherry on the centre of each,
1324. CHERRY TARTLETS.
Take the stones out of two pounds of Kentish cherries, put these
Into a small sugar-boiler with three quarters of a pound of pounded
sugar, toss them in this, then set them on the stove-fire and allow them
to boil for about five minutes: the cherries must then be strained on a
sieve, and the syrup reduced to about one-third part of its quantity,
then added to the cherries, and kept in a small basin.
Line two dozen small tartlet-pans with short paste or tart-paste (the
flats being stamped out with a fluted cutter); knead as many small
pfeces of paste as there are tartlets, and after dipping them in flour,
press one of them into each of the tartlets, place them- on a baking-
sheet, and put them in the oven (moderately heated) to be baked of a
light color; when they are nearly done, withdraw them, and take out
the pieces of paste, shake some fine sngar over them, and then glaze
them with the red-hot salamander. Just before serving the tartlets, fill
them with the cherries.
Note.—Raspberries, currants, gooseberries, and all kinds of plnms,
may be prepared for tartlets, by gently boiling them for a few minutes
in about a pint of syrup; the fruit should then be drained on a sieve,
and the syrup reduced to one-third of its original quantity, and kept
* Mosaic-boards, for tartlets; may be bad of all sizes and patterns at any turner's
•hop. To out out impressions from these, it it necessary to use small circulur flats of
raised pie-paste, which must he plaeed on the board, and pressed into the design, by
rolling it with a paste-pin; the superfluous paste must then be cut or shaved away, and
the mosaic of paste that remains in the design shaken out of the board.


460 SMALL PASTEY. »
with the frnit in a small basin, to fill the tartlets with as in the fore-
going cases.
1325. PUFF-PASTE TARTLETS.
Give eight turns to half a pound of puff-paste (No. 1261), roll it out
to the thickness of the sixth part of an inch, and then with a circular
tin-cutter, about one inch and three quarters in diameter, stamp out
twenty flats; again use a small cutter, measuring one inch in diameter,
to stamp out the centre of these: next, gather up the trimmings, knead
them together, and roll them out to the eighth part of an inch in thick-
ness, and stamp out as many flats as there are rings; place them on
a wetted baking-sheet, moisten the edges with a soft brush dipped in
water, stick the rings of paste on these, shake some sugar over them
with the dredger, and bake them of a very light color (at very moderate
heat). When the tartlets are done, mask the bands or rings with a
little meringrue-paste, dip them either in some chopped or very finely-
shred pistachios or almonds, and place them in the screen to dry.
Previously to serving these tartlets, they may be filled, either with
cherries, currants, plums, &c, prepared as directed above, or else with
any kind of preserve.
1326. MOSAIC TARTLETS.
Prepare two dozen puff-paste tartlets as directed above, and fill
each of them with a spoonful of apricot or greengage-jam; wet round
the edges, and place a mosaic of paste on the top of each, egg these
over slightly, and bake them of a light color; when they are done,
shake some fine sugar over them, and glaze them with the red-hot
salamander.
1327. PARISIAN LOAVES.
Prepare some small slender finger-biscuits, spread them with apricot
or greengage-jam, and stick two of these together; then, hold one at
a time on a fork, mask them over slightly with some mero'noue-paste,
and with a paper cornet filled with some of the same, draw parallel
lines across the cakes in a slanting direction; when they are all com-
pleted, shake some sugar over them, and put them in the oven to be
baked, or rather dried, of a very light-fawn color. When done, insert
some narrow strips of bright currant-jelly, greengage-jam, and apple-
jelly between the bars of the decoration.
1328. MARYGOLDS.
Give eight turns to half a pound of puff-paste, roll it out to the
thickness of the sixth part of an inch, stamp out twenty flats with
a circular fluted tin-cutter, about one inch and three quarters in
diameter, and place these on a wetted baking-sheet; roll out the
trimmings rather thin, and with two smaller cutters, stamp out as
many rings of the size of a shilling as there are cakes, and place one
of these on the centre of each of the marygolds, previously wetted all
over the surface. Then, place some almonds split into four strips
lengthwise, closely round the rings, in a somewhat slanting direction;
these must be slightly pressed into the paste to make them hold on,
and should be arranged so as to give to the cake, as much as possible,
the appearance of the flower they are intended to resemble. When
they are all completed, shake some sugar over them with the dredger,


APPLE TART WITH QUINCE. 461
and bake them of a light color. When done, insert some very narrow
itrips of bright firm red-currant or apple-jelly between each piece of
almond, and place a piece of apricot or greengage-jam in the ring.
1328a. FILBERT CREAM TARTLETS.
Link two dozen tartlet-moulds with some short-paste, and then
fill them with the following preparation :—First, extract the kernels
from a sufficient quantity of fresh filberts to produce half a pound
of sound kernels; let these be first ponnded in a mortar, adding a
dessert-spoonful of water, in order to prevent them from turning oily;
and when they are thoroughly bruised, add two ounces of fresh butter,
four ounces of sugar, a liqueur-glassful of white noyeau, and the yolks
of four eggs; and, having beaten the whole well together, use the
preparation as directed above. Bake the filled tartlets in a moderate
oven, and when done remove them from the moulds on to a clean
baking-sheet, and let them be glazed on the surface of the cream with
the following mixture:—To a small glassful of white noyeau, add about
two ounces of glazing-sngar, work these well together until they form
a rather thick icing, which use as directed above; and* after this last
part of the process is completed, place the tartlets in the screen to dry
the icing.
1328k COVENTRY TARTLETS.
Line two dozen deep-fluted tartlet-moulds with some short-paste,
and fill these with the following preparation:—Procure about twelve
ounces of hard fresh curd, which place in a mortar with four onnces
of ponnded sngar, the yolks of four eggs, two ounces of fresh butter,
as much grated nutmeg as would hold on a sixpence, a small pinch
of salt, and a dessert-spoonful of orange-flower-water; bruise all
these smoothly together until the whole forms a compact creamy
substance, and then use it as directed above. Bake the tartlets of a
light color, and, when done, turn them ont upside-down upon a
sheet of paper, and allow them to cool. Next, proceed to mask over*
the upper part of each tartlet with some apricot-marmalade, and
place thereon a tasteful decoration formed with angelica, dried
cherries, &c, &c
These cakes may be varied in appearance by using currant or
apple-jelly instead of apricot, &c, and ornamenting.them with small
cut fancy shapes or designs, made of worked puff-paste, or almond-
past*.
1329. APPLE TART WITH QUINCE.
Peel the apples, remove the cores, cut them in slices or quarters,
and arrange them neatly in the pie-dish; then add the quince, which
must be previously sliced up very thin, and stewed in a small stew-
pan over a slow fire with a little water, sugar, and a small piece of
butter; add sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten the quantity of
apples the tart may contain, and strew some zest of lemon (i. e., the
rind rubbed on sugar, and then scraped off) over the top. Cover
the tart with puff-paste, first placing a band of the same round the
edge of the dish; scollop it round the edges by pressing them with
the back of a knife, egg the tart over, then ornament the top by
drawing ont some fanciful design with the point of a knife, and bake


462 FRITTERS.
it of a light color; when done, shake some sugar upon it, and use
the red-hot salamander to glaze it.
1330. PEAR TART.
If mellow pears be used for this purpose, the foregoing directions
may be followed; but if stewing pears are made use of, these must
be first stewed with some sugar, a little water, and some lemon-peel
and cloves tied together. When the pears are nearly done, allow
them to cool previously to making the tart, which, in this case, should
be covered with tart paste (No. 1255); when so far finished, sprinkle
it over with a paste-brush dipped in some beaten white of egg, and
some sifted sugar strewn upon it, it should then be baked of a light
color.
1331. FRUIT TARTS IN GENERAL.
When peaches, apricots, or any of the larger kinds of plums are
used for making tarts, the stones should be removed, and the kernels
taken out and blanched; the fruit should be then neatly arranged
in the tart-disk in the form of a dome, with the kernels amongst
it, and some sifted sugar strewn over all. These tarts should in-
variably be covered with tart-paste, and finished as directed in the fore-
going case.
For making cherry, damson, raspberry, and currant tarts, follow the
same directions; except that the stones need not be removed from the
two first of these.
FRITTERS,
COMPRISING
Apple Fritters. Custard Fritters.
Pine Apple Fritters. Princess Fritters.
Orange Fritters. Portuguese Fritters.
Peach Fritters. German Fritters.
Spanish Puffs. Diavolini.
1332. Apple fritters.
Cut the apples in rather thick slices, scoop out the cores wfth a
tin-cutter, then pare off the rind, and place the pieces of apples in a
basin with a small glass of brandy, a table-spoonful of sugar, and some
grated peel of lemon or orange, letting them steep in this for several
hours, if possible. When about to send the fritters to table, throw
the pieces of apple into a basin containing some light-made batter (No.
232), then take them out one at a time, and drop them into some
heated hog's-lard, to be fried'of a light color; when they are done,
drain them on a sheet of paper", break off all the rough parts, place
the fritters on a baking-sheet, shake some fine sugar upon them, glaz*
them with the red-hot salamander, and serve.
Note.—Pear fritters are made in the same manner as the above.


CUSTARD FRITTERS. 463
1333. CUSTARD FRITTERS.
Peel the pine apple without waste; if it is small, cut it into slices
in the same manner as apples; but if the fruit happens to be large, it
should be cut up in pieces about the size of a finger; these must be
then steeped with a glass of maraschino and a spoonful of pounded
sugar, in a basic for several hours, previously to their being fried in
batter; this should be mixed with cream. In other respects, finish
these as directed for apple fritters.
1334. ORANGE FRITTERS.
Choose some thin-skinned oranges, peel them, divide them into
quarters, remove the pips, and then put them to steep in a basin with
a glass of brandy, a spoonful of sugar, and some grated rind of orange.
Previously to frying the fritters, drain the pieces of oranges from the
brandy, &c, throw them into some light-made batter (No. 232), then,
take them out one by one, drop them gently into some heated hog'a
lard, and fry them of a light color; finish these in the usual manner.
1335. PEACH FRITTERS.
Cut the peaches into quarters, remove the skins, and put them to
steep in a basin with a glass of noyeau and a spoonful of sugar; then
fry them in batter, as directed in the foregoing cases.
Note.—Fritters of apricots and large plums are prepared as the
above; brandy being used instead of liqueur, to steep the fruit in.
1336. SPANISH PUFFS.
I
Prepare some pelits-choux paste (No. 1291). Next, cut a sheet
'of foolscap-paper into four pieces, spread these with butter, and then
take up as much of the paste as will stand in a small tea-spoon; press
it out in rows on the paper, in the fornfof round balls: this should be
done just before frying them. When about to send to table, take hold
of the sheets of paper containing the puffs, at one corner, and as they
are immersed in the hot hog's-lard, shake them gently off the paper;
fry them of a light color, and when done, drain them on a wire-sieve
covered with paper to absorb any grease: some fine sugar must then be
shaken over them, previously to their being dished up on a napkin, in
a conical form.
1337. CUSTARD FRITTERS.
Ingredients :—One pint of cream, ten yolks of eggs, one ounce of
potato-flour, six ounces of sugar, a little cinnamon and grated lemon-
peel.
Mix the above ingredients together in a basin, after having first
boiled the cinnamon and lemon in the cream; strain the whole through
a sieve, and then pour the custard into a plain mould, previously
spread with butter: steam the custard in the usual manner, and when
done, allow it to become cold, preparatory to its being cut up into
slices about half an inch thick, and then divided into squares of about
two inches each: place these on a dish, and sprinkle them with a little
cinnamon-powder, and a spoonful of brandy. When about to send to
table, dip each piece of custard separately in some light-made batter
(No. 232), then drop them into some hot hog's-lard, and fry them of a


464 FRITTERS.
light color; when done, drain them on a sheet of paper, break off lany
rough parts, sugar them, glaze them over with the red-hot salamander,
and dish them up on a napkin.
Note.—This kind of fritter may be varied by changing the flavor-
ing, and also by adding a proportionate quantity of either grated
chocolate, pulverized almonds essence of coffee, or lightly-burnt
sugar.
1337 a. princess fritters.
This kind of fritter is prepared from the remains of Brioche, Jiaba,
Savarin, Compidgne cake, or Kouglauff; which ever of the foregoing
happens to be used for the specified purpose, should be first cut up into
slices a quarter of an inch thick, and then again cut out into small
circular shapes with a tin-cutter, about the diameter of a five-shilling
piece; place these in a sautapan previously strewn with orange sugar,
and pour over them sufficient cream to cover them, shake some more
orange sugar over the entire surface, and when about to fry the fritters,
dip each separately in very light and delicately-made frying-batter.
When these fritters are fried crisp, let them be brightly glazed with
sifted sugar and the red-hot salamander; and, after being dished up,
pour some apricot-jam, diluted with a little orange flower-water, round
the base, and serve.
1337 b. PORTUGUESE FRITTERS.
Ingredients :—Eight ounces of Carolina rice, four ounces of sugar,
two ounces of fresh butter, a quart of milk, a small stick of cinnamon,
and a pound-pot of orange-marmalade, and six eggs. Thoroughly
pick and wash the rice, and then place it in a convenient-sized stewpan,
together with the sugar, butter, milk and cinnamon; allow the whole
to simmer very gently by the side of a slow fire, until the whole of tho
milk is absorbed by the rice, when, if the simmering has been gradual
and slow, the grains of rice will be satisfactorily done. Next add the
orauge-marmalade, and the yolks of the six eggs; stir the whole over
a quick stove-fire until the eggs are set firm in the preparation; it must
now be turned out upon a clean dish or baking-sheet, and spread equally
to about a quarter of an inch in thickness, and when this has become
cold, must be cut out in oblong shapes, which, after being first dipped
in light frying-batter, are to be fried crisp, glazed with cinnamon-sugar,
• and dished up on a napkin.
1337 c. DIAVOLINL
Ingredients :—Eight ounces of ground rice, four ounces of sugar,
a quart of milk, two ounces of butter, a tea-spoonful of essence of
ginger, six eggs, one pound of preserved ginger.
Mix the rice, sugar, milk and butter together in a stewpan, and stir
the produce over a stove-fire until it thickens; it must then be removed
from the fire, and after being worked quite smooth, and the lid being
put on the stewpan, set it either in the oven or over a slow ash-fire
to finish doing; this will be effected in about half an hour. The rice
must now be removed from the fire, and the preserved ginger pre-
viously cut into very small dice-like shapes, the essence of ginger and
the six yolks of eggs, being added thereto, stir the whole over a quick


ICED PUDDINGS.
465
fire until the eggs are set firm in the rice, and then finish the fritters
as directed in the preceding article; using plain sugar to glaze them.
1337c?. GERMAN FRITTERS.
Divide one pound of Brioche-paste into twenty-four equal parts;
next, mould these into small finger-shapes, and bake them of a very
light color. These fingers must now be placed in a deep sautapan,
and a pint of cream, previously boiled with a stick of vanilla in it, is
to be poured over them, and they are to be allowed to soak therein
until quite cold } after which they must be bread-crumbed by being
first dipped in beaten egg, and then rolled in the bread-crumbs.
About twenty minutes before the fritters are required to be served,
fry them of a bright light color, in heated hog's-lard, shake some
vanilla sugar over them, and when neatly piled on a napkin, send to
table quite hot.
ICED PUDDINGS AND ORNAMENTED ENTREMETS,
COMPRISING
Iced Cake, d la Stanley.
Iced Rice Pudding, d la Cintra.
Iced Pudding, d la Cerito.
„ cJ la Prince of Wales.
„ d la Chesterfield.
,, ii la Kinnaird.
m , d la Prince Albert.
,, d la Paritiinne.
„ d la Duchess of Kent.
Biscuit glacft, in small cases.
Nesselrode Pudding.
Iced Pudding, d la Princess Alice.
Millrfevilltt Cake, d la Chantilly.
Apples and Rice, ornamented.
Apples and Rice, plain.
„ d la PoTtnipuiitc.
„ in the form of a Poroupine.
„ d la Portuguaite, another way.
Flan of Peaches.
Napolitaine Cake, d la Chantilly.
Croquante of Oranges.
„ of Fresh Walnuts.
„ of Ratafias, d la Chantilly.
Meringue, d la Paririinne.
Qrotaf-Meringue, with Pistachios.
Swan of Savoy Biscuit, d la Chantilly.
Savoy Cake, in the form of Glazed Ham
1338. ICED CAKE, A LA STANLEY.
First, make a Parisian cake (in
a fluted mould), as directed in No.
1273. Next, prepare a compdte of
greengages in syrup; these must
be kept whole, and of as green a
color as possible. Then, prepare
a custard in the following manner:
—Mix ten yolks of eggs with a
pint and a half of boiling cream,
eight ounces of sugar, and sufficient
cinnamon and lemon-peel to flavor
it; add a very little salt, and stir
the whole in a stewpan over the
fire until it begins to thicken; the
costard should then be immediately
passed through a tammy or sieve,
into a basin, and allowed to become

29


466 ICED PUDDINGS.
cold. This custard must now be placed in a freezing-pot used for
making ices, and should be occasionally worked with a spatula as it
becomes set by freezing; when frozen sufficiently firm, scrape the
custard from the sides of the pot, and gather it all up at the bottom;
put the lid on with paper to exclude the hot air, pour off the water
from the tub, and after the pot has been packed in with fresh ice and
salt, place a damp cloth over the top, and keep it in a very cool place
until wanted.
When about to send the cake to table, scoop out nearly the whole
of the crumb from the centre, and fill it with the iced custard; place
it on its dish, pile up the compdte of greengages on the top, as repre-
sented in the wood-cut, pour some of the syrup round the base, and
serve.
1339. ICED RICE PUDDING, A LA. CINTRA.
Wash and parboil eight ounces of Carolina rice; then, put it into
a stewpan, with a quart of milk
and a pint of cream, two sticks of
vanilla, twelve ounces of sugar, and
a little salt; allow the rice to sim-
mer very gently over or by a slow
stove-fire, until the grains are al-
most dissolved, stirring it over oc-
casionally with a light hand. When
the rice is done, and while it is yet
in a boiling state, add the yolks of
six eggs; then stir the whole well
together for several minutes, in
order to mix in the eggs, and also
for the purpose of breaking up and
smoothing the rice. Let this rice-
custard be frozen in the same manner as directed in the foregoing case,
and then put it into a plain mould; cover it with the lid, and immerse
it in the ice in the usual way.
While the above part of the process is going on, a compdte of twelve
oranges (Tangerene, if in season) should be prepared in the following
manner:—First, cut each orange into halves, remove the pithy core
and the pips with the point of a small knife; then, with a sharp knife,
pare off the rind and white pith, so as to lay the transparent pulp of
the fruit quite bare, taking Care to trim them neatly, and without
waste; when the whole of the fruit is ready, throw it into a conve-
nient-sized sugar-boiler, or stewpan, containing about a pint of syrnp
(made with one pound of sugar, and nearly a pint of spring-water),
allow the pieces of orange to boil up gently in this for two minutes,
and then drain them on a sieve. Boil the syrup down to about one-
half of its original quantity; then, add two wine-glasses of curacao,
and three table-spoonfuls of apricot-jam; mix the whole together, and
pour it over the oranges in a basin.
When about to send the pudding to table, turn it ont of the mould,
and place it on its dish, dress the compdte of oranges on the top and
round the base, as represented in the wood-cut, pour the syrup over it,
and serve.


468
ICED PUDDINGS.
Macidoine of fruits must be made as follows:—First, extract the juice
from one pound of muscatel grapes, and add a sufficient quantity of
syrup, to give body to it; this must then be put into the freezing-pot,
and worked in the usual way. Just before using the ice, a propor-
tionate quantity of light-coloured fruit must be added, and mixed in
lightly with the ice, so as not to bruise them: these fruits should
consist of small pieces of pine-apple, peach, apricot, white raspberries,
strawberries, and bigaroou cherries; this Macedoine should be finished
just before dishing up. The pudding must be turned out of the mould
on to its dish, the centre filled with the Macedoine, as represented in
the annexed wood-cut, and immediately served.
1342. ICED PUDDING, A LA CHESTERFIELD.
Guate one pound of pine-apple into a basin, add this to eight yolks
of eggs, one pint and a half of
boiled cream, one pound of sugar,
and a very little salt; stir the whole
together in a stew pan over a stove-
fire until the custard begins to
thicken; then pass it through a
tammy, by rubbing with two wooden
spoons, in the same manner as for
a puree, in order to force the pine-
apple through the tammy. This
custard must now be iced in the
usual manner, and put into a mould
of the shape represented in the an-
nexed wood-cut; and in the centre
of the iced cream, some Macedoine
ice of red fruiis, consisting of cher-
ries, currants, strawberries and rasp-
berries in a cherry-water ice, must be introduced; cover the whole iu
with the lid, then immerse the pudding in rough ice in the usual way,
and keep it in a cool place until wanted.
When about to send the pudding to table, turn it out of the mould
on to its dish, ornament the dish with a kind of drooping feather,
formed with green angelica cut in strips, and arranged as represented
in the wood-cut; garnish the base with small gauffres, filled with
some of the iced cream reserved for the purpose, place a strawberrv on
the top of each, and serve.
1343. ICED PUDDING, A LA KINNAIRD.
Blanch eight ounces of Jordan almonds, and two of bitter ditto;
dry them in a cloth, put them into a sugar-boiler, and stir them over
a slow fire, in order to roast them of a light color; as soon as the
almonds have acquired sufficient color, throw in six ounces of pounded
sugar, and continue stirring the whole over the fire until the sugar
has melted, and acquired a light-brown color; they should now be
withdrawn from the fire, and stirred about with the spoon until they
have become nearly cold; they must then be thoroughly pounded in
the mortar, and added to eight yolks of eggs, eight ounces of sugar, and
one pint aud a half of boiled cream; stir the whole with a wooden

A


ICED PUDDINGS. 46&

spoon in a stcwpan over the stove-fire, until the yolks of eggs are
sufficiently set in the custard, and
then pass it through a tammy in the
same way as a puree. This custard
must be iced in a freezing-pot in the
usual manner, and afterwards put
into a mould resembling that repre-
sented in the wood-cut, and after
being covered in with iu lid, im-
mersed in rough ice, there to remain
until it is sent to table. The pud-
ding must then be turned out of the
mould on to its dish, the top gar-
nished with a drooping feather,
formed of strips of green angelica,
aud served.
Note.—The centre of this pudding may be garnished with apricot or
orange-marmalade, previously to its being again immersed in the
rough ice.
1344. ICED PUDDING, A LA PRINCE ALBERT.
Prepare some rice custard ice, as directed for the pudding a la
Cintra (No. 1339): about half that quantity will suffice. Slice up a
dozen ripe apricots, and boil them with twelve ounces of sugar, and
half a pint of water, until the fruit is dissolved; then pass it through
a sieve—if it should be too thick, add a little thin syrup, and freeze
this in the usual manner. The two ices being ready, a pudding-mould
should be lined with a coating of the apricot-water ice, about half an
inch thick, and the centre filled up entirely with the iced rice-custard;
cover the pudding with the lid of the mould, and immerse it in rough
ice until dishing-up time. The pudding must then be placed on its
dish, garnished with some wafer-gauffres filled with whipped cream
seasoned with noyeau, and served immediately.
1345. ICED PUDDING, A LA PARISIENNE. .
Parroil and remove the skin from eight ounces of Jordan almonds,
and two ounces of bitter ditto, wash and dry them on a cloth, and then
thoroughly pound them with twelve ounces of sugar in a mortar, until
they present the appearance of a soft paste; this must then be added
to eight yolks of eggs, and a quart of boiled cream; stir the whole
together in a stewpan over a stove-fire, until the eggs are sufficiently
set in the custard, and then pass it through the tammy in the same
manner as a puree. Pour this into a freezing-pot—ready packed in
rough ice, and freeze it in the usual manner; when this is effected, fill
an ice pudding-mould with it, cover it in with the lid, and immerse it
in rough ice until dishing-up time. The pudding must then be placed
on its dish, and the top and base garnished with a compdte of apricots;
after mixing a glass of noyeau in with the syrup, pour it over the
pudding, and serve.
1346. ICED PUDDING, A LA DUCHESS OF KENT.
Remove the skins from one pound of filbert-kernels, and pound these
vith ten ounces of sugar (adding a few drops of water), until they


470 ORNAMENTAL ENTREMETS.
become soft and pulpy; take up this paste into a basin, add a pint of
single cream, stir the whole well together, and pass it through a tammy
into a purie; then freeze this in the usual manner. While the above
is being prepared, a pint of cherry-water-ice must be made as follows:—
Remove the stalks from two pounds of Kentish cherries, and bruise
tbem thoroughly in a mortar, so as to break the stones, then take them
up into a sugar-boiler, add twelve ounces of sugar, and boil the whole
together over a brisk stove-fire for five minutes; rub this through a
hair-sieve into a basin, and freeze it, adding a little thin syrup, if ne-
cessary. Use the cherry-water-ice to line the pudding-mould with,
garnish the centre with the filbert-cream-ice, cover the mould with its
lid, and immerse the pudding in rough ice until dishing-up time. The
pudding must then be turned out on its dish, garnished round with
v/eSev-gauffres filled with some of the filbert-cream reserved for the
purpose, and served immediately.
1347. BISCUITS GLACES, IN SMALL CASES.
To eight yolks of eggs, add one pint of cream, four ounces of ratifias,
ten ounces of sugar, and a very little salt; stir the whole in a stewpan
over a stove-fire until the egg is sufficiently set; then pass the.custard
through a tammy into a basin, and when it has become cold, add two
wine-glasses of maraschino, and freeze this in the usual manner. Just
before dishing up the biscuits, half a pint of whipped cream must be
lightly added to the iced custard; the small paper cases must be filled
with this, and afterwards sprinkled over with some finely-bruised high-
colored ratifias, then dish the biscuits upon a napkin, and serve.
Note.—These iced biscuits may be also infinitely varied, by changing
the flavorings: for which purpose, all kinds of liqueurs, and essences
of almonds, vanilla, orange, lemon, coffee, chocolate, or orange-flowers,
may be used: they may also be made by adding a pur£e of apricots,
strawberries, raspberries, or pine-apple, to the custard.
1348. NESSELRODE PUDDING.
Bon three dozen chestnuts in water, and when done, peel, pound,
and rub them through a sieve ; put this pulp into a stewpan with eight
yolks of eggs, a pint of cream, two sticks of vanilla, previously pounded,
half a pint of pine-apple syrup, and a very little salt; stir these ingre-
dients over a stove-fire until the eggs are sufficiently set in the custard,
then rub the whole through a tammy, and put the cream into a basin.
Cut four ounces of green citron, six ounces of pine-apple (previously
simmered in the syrup above alluded to), and place these in a basin
with six ounces of dried cherries, and four ounces of Smyrna raisins;
to these add two wine-glasses of maraschino, and allow the fruit to
steep for several hours. Plao the chestnut cream in a freezing-pot
immersed in rough ice, and freeze it in the usual manner; then add
half a pint of whipped cream and the fruit. Mix the pudding, and
continue working the freezing-pot for a few minutes longer; when the
pudding is thoroughly set firm, put it into the mould, cover it down
and immerse it in ice until it is required to be sent to table.


472
ORNAMENTAL ENTREMETS.

cbios. Tlie centre of these cakes may also be filled with a Macedoine
of fruit in jelly, or with any of the various kinds of creams; the latter
should be whipped on the ice, until nearly set.
1351. APPLES AND RICE ORNAMENTED.
First, turn or peel smoothly about two dozen golden pippins
(after the cores have been removed);
boil these very gently in some light
syrup for about ten minutes, when
they will be sufficiently done. Theu
prepare some rice in the same man-
ner as for a cake, observing that
for this purpose, it must be kept
firmer. Prepare also a circular
or oval raised pie-case (No. 752),
about three inches high, taking care
that its diameter suits the dish it is
meant for. When the case is baked,
fill it with the prepared rice, and
pile the apples up in a pyramidal
form, as represented in the wood-
cut, placing some of the rice in the
centre of these. Mask the whole with some diluted apricot-jam, place
a preserved cherry in the hole of each apple, and insert some pieces
of angelica, cut in the form of pointed leaves, in between the apples.
This dish should be served hot, and must, therefore, be dished up only
a short time previously to its being served.
1352. APPLES AND RICE, PLAIN.
Divide a dozen apples in halves, take out the cores, peel them, and
place them in neat order in a deep sautapan thickly spread with butter;
strew some lemon-sugar over them, put the lid on, and then bake them
without allowing them to acquire any color. Prepare some rice boiled
with milk, sugar, a little butter, and some cinnamon ; when thoroughly
done, work this up with a spoon, and then dish it up in the form of a
dome; arrange the apples neatly upon this, pour some melted aurieot-
jam over the whole, and serve quite hot.
1353. APPLES, A LA PORTUGUAISE.
Prepare some apple marmalade with about a dozen apples. Split
a dozen apples into halves, peel
them, and remove the cores, and
then place them in a deep santapan
thickly spread with butter; shake
some sugar and grated lemon-peel
over them, and bake them in the
oven. Prepare next a small quan-
tity of pastry custard (No. 1311),
also an ornamented case (No. 752),
which should be partially baked.
When the foregoing articles are
ready, nearly fill the case with the
marmalade of apples, leaving an


APPLES, A LA PORTUGUAISE. 473
opening or well in the centre; then pile the pieces of apples upon the
marmalade in the form of a dome, leaving the centre hollow ; fill this
with the pastry-custard, and cover the whole with some orange
marmalade. Next, whip four whites of eggs quite firm, mix in four
ounces of sifted sugar, and use this meringue-paste to finish the apples,
according to the design placed at the head of this article: this is done
by first masking ever the entire surface of the dome, formed by the
apples, with a smooth coating of the prepared whites of eggs, and then
with a paper cornet filled with some of the same, marking out the
design: when this has been effected, shake some sifted sugar upon it,
and bake the meringue of a very light-fawn color. Just before send-
ing this entremel to table, finish' ornamenting it by filling up the inner
part of the cross with alternate strips or layers of red-currant and
apple-jellies, and also with greengage or apricot-jam; these must be
arranged so as to show their colors distinctly, which will produce a
very pretty effect.
This entremets should be served hot.
1354. APPLES IN THE FORM OF A PORCUPINE.
Prepare some marmalade with about eighteen apples; place this in
an oval case of raised pie-paste previously baked for the purpose;
leave a hollow in the centre of the marmalade, fill this up with some
pastry custard (No. 1311), and spread some apricot-jam over the whole.
Next, prepare some meringue-paste as directed in the foregoing article,
and spread this over the surface of the apples, giving it at the same
time the form of a porcupine; when this has been effected, about six
ounces of Jordan almonds, previously shred in strips, must be regularly
inserted in close rows, to imitate the quills of porcupine, and the head
and feet should be marked out with angelica cut out in imitation of
these. Shake some sifted sugar upon the whole, and bake the meringue
covering of a very light-fawn color. Just before sending to table, fill
oat the circle of the eyes with apple-jelly, with a currant inserted in the
centre of each to form the pupils, and use a paper cornet filled with
red-currant-jelly, to draw some stripes lengthwise, between the rows of
almonds placed on the back.
1355. APPLES, A LA PORTUGUAISE, ANOTHER WAY.
Remove the cores from a dozen golden pippins, or small russets;
peel them smoothly, and then simmer them in a pint of light syrup
until they are nearly done; they must then be drained on a sieve.
Next, spread the bottom and sides of a baked pie-case raised in a mould
about two inches high (tart-paste should be used for this purpose), with
apple marmalade mixed with one-third part of orange-jam, and arrange
the apples in close circular order in this ; each apple must be filled with
orange-jam, and the entire surface then masked over with a rather
thick coating of transparent red-currant or apple-jelly. Some tasteful
design should be formed on the layer of jelly in the form of a wreath
or scroll; this should be done either with almond paste, or with puff-
paste to which ten turns have been given, then stamped out with ap-
propriate tin-cutters, and placed on a baking-sheet, sugared over and
baked, without allowing it to acquire any color. The latter style of
ornamenting is preferable.


474
ORNAMENTAL ENTREMETS.
1356. FLAN OF PEACHES.
Foe this purpose, a crust or case should be prepared in the following
manner. First, make one pound of short paste (No. 1255); then
spread with butter the inside of a fluted circular or oval mould, about
two inches high, and eight inches in diameter; line this with the paste,
cut the edges level, and then raise them all round, and pinch the part
that rises above the mould with a pair of pastry pincers. Next, fill
the case with flour, mixed with one-sixth part of chopped suet, and
bake it until it is about three parts done; the flour must then be re-
moved, and the case brushed out clean, with a paste-brush ; after which
it must be nearly filled with halves of peaches, previously skinned and
simmered in some thin syrup for about five minutes; the fian must now
be placed again in the oven for about a quarter of an hour, and when
withdrawn, a close row of halves of peaches (previously simmered in
syrup added to the juice of a pint of red currants) should be neatly
arranged, and a peach kernel being placed on each piece of peach, let
the jelly be poured over the whole, and serve.
Note.—For the preparation of Jfans of apricots, and all kinds of
plums, follow the above directions; except that in either of these cases,
the currant juice is to be omitted.
1357. NEAPOLITAN CAKE, A LA CHANTILLY
First, weigh one pound of flour, eight ounces of sifted sugar, eight
ounces of pounded almonds, and eight ounces of butter; place these
ingredients on the pastry slab, add
five yolks of eggs, the zest of the
rind of two oranges extracted by
rubbing on a piece of sugar, and a
very little salt; work these well
together, and when they are thor-
oughly mixed, knead the paste into
the form of a rolling-pin, and divide
it into twelve equal parts; these
must be again kneaded into round
balls, rolled out to the diameter of
about seven inches, placed upon
baking-sheets, spread with butter;
after having cut them all of the
same size with a circular tin-cutter,
let them be egged and pricked all
over with a fork, aud baked of a
light color, and when done, placed on a level slab or table, with a
baking-sheet upon them, to keep them straight as they become cold.
These flats must then be laid one upon another, with a layer of some
kind of preserve spread between each: apricot, greengage, straw-
berry, orange, or raspberry-jam, may be used for the purpose. Pre-
viously to placing the last piece on the top of the cake, it should be
first decorated with meringrue-paste or sugar-icing; the sides must be
masked with some kind of bright preserve,—such as greengage, apri-
cot, red-currant, or apple-jelly, and afterwards ornamented with
a design similar to that represented in the wood-cut, formed either of


CBOQUANTE OF RATAFIAS. 475

almond or gum-paste (raised from carved boards used for such pur-
poses); or else with piping, as used for wedding-cakes. The cake
should then be placed on its dish, the centre filled with whipped
cream, and some strawberries piled on the top; when these are not in
season, preserved cherries, verjuice, or angelica may be substituted.
1358. CROQUANTE OF ORANGES.
Let the peel and all the white pith be carefully removed with the
fingers from about a dozen sound, and not over-ripe oranges; then
divide them by pulling them into
small sections with the fingers,
taking care not to break the thin
skin which envelopes the juicy pulp,
then place them on an earthen dish.
Next, put about one pound of the
finest lump-sngar into a sugar-
boiler with sufficient spring water
to just cover it and boil it down
until it snaps or becomes brittle,
which may be easily ascertained thus: take up a little of the sugar,
when it begins to boil up in large purling bubbles, on the point of a
knife, and instantly dip it into some cold water; if the sugar becomes
set, it is sufficiently boiled, and will then easily snap in breaking.*
The sugar should now be withdrawn from the fire. The pieces of
orange stuck on the points of small wooden skewers must be slightly
dipped in the sugar, and arranged at the bottom and round the sides
of a plain circular mould (previously very lightly rubbed with salad-
oil), according to the foregoing design. When the whole is complete,
and the sugar has become firm by cooling, just before sending to
table, fill the inside of the croquanle with whipped cream, seasoned
with sugar, a glass of maraschino and some whole strawberries, and
then turn it out on to a napkin, and serve.
1359. CROQUANTE OF FRESH WALNUTS.
The fittest season for making this, is when the walnuts are just ripe
enough to be easily taken out of the shell; about sixty will be required
for the purpose. They must be carefully shelled and divided into
halves, then freed from the thin whitish skin which covers the kernels,
and kept in a clean napkin until used. In all other respects, this
kind of croquanle must be finished as in the preceding case.
1360. CROQUANTE OF RATIFAS, A LA CHANTILLY.
Procure one pound of small ratafias; boil down one pound of the
finest lout-sugar as directed in the foregoing case. Then, slightly rub
the inside of a basket-shaped mould with oil, and proceed to line
this with the ratafias lightly dipped in the sugar—taking care to ar-
range them in neat and close order; when the croqvante is completed,
and the sugar has become firmly set, turn it out of the mould. With
the remainder of the sugar, form the handles, and a scroll-pattern
border, which is to be placed round the join of the basket, and also
* Whon bolting sugar for this purpose, it is customary to add a pinch of cream of
tartar and calcined alum mixed, or, a few drops of acetio-ucid.


478 BICE CAKES AND TDtBALES.
as an ornament must be imitated by spreading a layer of chocolate-
icing over it, in the form of a scollop shell; the remaining part of the
surface of the ham should be masked with a coating of diluted bright
apricot jam, to imitate glaze.
Just before sending the ham to table, fill the hollow part with some
Macedoine of fruit in jelly, or else with some kind of cream ; then place
the ham on its dish, fix a handsome paper ruffle on the knuckle with
a small silver skewer; garnish the ham round the base with croutons
of some kind of sweet jelly, pink and white; place an ornament of
the same on the top, and serve.
RICE CAKE AND TIMBALES,
(MMPRIIIM
Rice Cake with Almonds. Maearoni Cake.
Timbal e of Rice. Semolina Cake.
NouiUtt Cake, A I ' Allemande. Potato Cake.
Vermicelli Cake.
1365. RICE CAKE, WITH ALMONDS.
Wash twelve ounces of rice, put it into a stewpan with four ounces
of butter, eight ounces of sugar, half an ounce of bitter, and four
ounces of sweet almonds (pounded), one quart of milk, and a very
little salt; set the whole to boil very gently by the side of a slow
stove-fire, and by the time the milk has become absorbed by the rice,
the latter will be sufficiently done,—or, if not, a little more milk should
be added previously to setting it to boil a little longer. When the
rice is done, mix in the yolks of six eggs, and the whites of three
whipped. Next, shred four ounces of sweet almonds, and strew
them equally over the inside of a plain mould, previously rather thickly
spread with butter; then pour in the prepared rice, and bake the
cake for about one hour and a half; when done, turn it out on to its
dish, pour some diluted apricot-jam round the base, and serve.
Note.—Rice cakes may also be flavored with vanilla, orange-flower,
lemon and cinnamon, coffee, or any kind of liqueur; dried cherries,
currants, sultana-raisins, candied-orange, lemon or citron or pistachio-
kernels may be added.
1366. TIMBALE OF RICE.
The only difference between this and a rice cake consists in the
mould being lined either with short or puff-paste: nout7/cs-paste, how-
ever is sometimes used for the purpose: it should be rolled in the
form of very small pipes, and the mould closely lined with them.
The prepared rice should then be poured into the mould, and baked
for about an hour and a half. When done, turn the timbale out of the
mould on its dish, glaze it over with sugar, and with the salamander,
then pour some kind of diluted preserve (warm), round the base.


POTATO CAKE. 479
1367. NOUILLES CAKES, A L'ALLEMANDE.
Prepare about six yolks of nouilles (No. 1256), pat them Into a
■tewpan with one quart of milk of almonds,* eight ounces of sugar,
four ounces of butter, two sticks of vnailla and a very little salt;
cover with the lid, and set them to simmer very gently by the side of
a slow stove-fire; by the time that the nouilles have absorbed all the milk
they will be sufficiently done, and must then be withdrawn from the
fire and emptied into a basin. Add the yolks of six eggs, and the
whipped whites of three, mix the whole lightly together, and pour it
into a mould previously spread with butter, and strewn with shreded
almonds. The cake must then be baked in the usual manner, and
when done, turned out of the mould on its dish, and served with some
Victoria cherry sauce (No. 64).
Note.—This kind of cake may also be made with maccaroni, vermi-
celli, or semolina, aud it may be flavored in the same manner as rice
cakes or timbales.
1368. VERMICELLI CAKE.
Parroil twelve ounces of vermicelli, drain it on a sieve, and then
put it into a stewpan with a pint of cream, four ounces of butter,
eight ounces of sugar, the zest or essence of the rind of two oranges
extracted by rubbing on a piece of sugar, and a little salt; cover with
the lid, and set the stewpan to simmer very gently on n slow fire until
the vermicelli has entirely absorbed the cream. Then, add the yolks
of six eggs and the whipped whites of three, mix the whole lightly
together, and put this preparation into a mould previously spread with
butter, and strewn with bread-crumbs; bake the cake in the oven for
about an hour and a half, and when done, turn it out on its dish;
pour some damson sauce round the base, and serve.
1369. MACCARONI CAKE
Is prepared in the same wav as a vermicelli cake.
1370. SEMOLINA CAKE.
This is also made in the same manner as a vermicelli cake, except
that it does not require to be parboiled.
Sago and tapioca are treated in a similar way.
1371. POTATO CAKE
ARE eighteen large York potatoes, and when done, rub their pulp
through a wire sieve; put this into a large basin, add four ounces of
batter, eight ounces of sifted sugar, a spoonful of pounded vanilla, a
gill of cream, the yolks of six eggs, and the whipped whites of two,
qnd a little salt; work the whole well together, and then place it in a
mould previously spread with butter, and strewn with bread-crumbs;
* Milk of almonds is prepared in the following manner:—First, remove the flkins
from eightouncea of Jordan almonds, and one ounce of bitter almonds, then pound them
thoroughly in a mortar, adding occasionally a few drops of water; when they are well
pulverized, place them in a basin, add a quart of spring-water, mix well together, and
•IImw this to stand for about an hour; the milk may then drawn off by straining it
through a napkin.


SOUFFLES. 481
simmer very gently on a slow fire for abont an hour, by which time the
grains of the rice will have become quite soft; the whole should now
be well worked with a wooden spoon, and the ten yolks of eggs, with
the rind of the lemons rubbed on sugar, should then be added, and if
the rice be too firm, a little cream also. The ten whites of eggs must
be whipped very firm, then lightly mixed in with the preparation, and
poured into the souffle case or crust, baked for about three-quarters
of an hour, and served immediately.
1374. CHOCOLATE SOUFFLE.
Tins is made by adding eight onnces of finely-scraped vanilla cho-
colate to two-thirds of the same kind of preparation directed to be
used in making a potato-flour souffle. The same number of eggswe
also required.
1375. COFFEE SOUFFLE.
Put eight ounces of Mocha coffee into an untinned stewpan or sugar-
boiler, and roast it of a light color, by stirring it continually over a
charcoal fire. When the coffee has acquired a light-brown color, toss
it up in the pan, blow away the small burnt particles, and then throw
it into a pint of boiling cream; put the lid on the infusion, and allow
it to stand for about half an hour, in order to extract the flavor.
Then, strain the infusion away from the coffee-berries, in a basin, and
use it to mix up the souffle, in exactly the same manner as described
for the potato-flour souffle.
1376. GINGER SOUFFLE.
Prepare a potato-flour souffle, and add to it eight onnces of pre-
served ginger cut up into small dice-like pieces. The vanilla must of
coarse be omitted.
1377. PINE-APPLE SOUFFLE.
Follow the directions for making a potato-flour souffle, adding to
it about one pound of preserved pine-apple, cut up into small pieces;
the syrup of this should also be added.
1378. SOUFFLE OF APRICOTS.
Remove the stones, and peel eighteen ripe apricots, then put them,
together with the kernels, into a stewpan wita twelve ounces of pounded
sugar; stir this over the fire with a wooden spoon, and as soon as the
fruit is boiled down to a jam, withdraw it from the fire, and mix it with
dalf the usual quantity of the preparation for a potato-flour souffle.
The same number of eggs are required, and in all other respects the
same directions should be followed.
Note.—Souffles of peaches, nectarines, and all kinds of plums, are
prepared in the same manner as the above.
1379. SOUFFLE OF RASPBERRIES.
Put one pound of picked raspberries into a small preserving pan,
with twelve ounces of pounded sugar, stir the whole over a charcoal
fire until it has boiled for about five minutes, and then rub it through
a sieve. Use this preparation as directed for making a souffle of
apricots.
80


484 PUDDINGS.
fire, remove the scum a3 it rises, and after the cherries have boiled for
about ten minutes, rub the whole through a sieve, and then pour it into
a silver souffle-case.
While the above part of the entremets is in course of preparation,
a dozen pieces of crumb of bread, or French rolls, shaped in the form
of eggs with a sharp knife, should be fried of a light-fawn color, in
some clarified butter. After these have been drained on a clean cloth,
place them in close circular rows in the purie of cherries; shake some
cinnamon sugar over the surface, set the cherry-bread on a baking-sheet
in the oven, to simmer slowly for about half an hour, and when done,
send to table.
1387. MEHL PRIE.
Ingredients required :—Six ounces of flour, eight ounces of pounded
sugar, two sticks of vanilla, a very little salt, a quart of cream, and a
pint of milk.
Put the flour, sugar, and salt, into an appropriate-sized stewpan, and
mix in with these the cream and milk with the vanilla; then, stir the
whole with a wooden spoon over a brisk charcoal-fire, until it has boiled
down to about one-half of its original quantity; the mehl prie should
then be withdrawn from the fire, and kept hot by the side of the stove,
the stewpan containing it being kept covered with its lid. Next, place
an untinned baking-sheet on a trivet over a charcoal stove-fire, and
when it has become too hot for the hand to remain upon it, spread the
centre over with a thin coating of the mehl prie (which may be done
with the back of a wooden spoon), and as this becomes browned, it
will detach itself from the baking-sheet; it must then be removed, and
before it has cooled, should be cut or stamped out with a tin-cutter.
This must be repeated until the process has furnished a plateful of
crisp chips. When about to send the mehl prie to table, the custard
pudding should be poured into a souffle-dish, and the chips sent up
separately on a plate; when served at table, a small ladleful of the
custard should be first poured on the guest's plate, and then a spoonful
of the chips placed upon this.
1388. KRAPFEN, OR GERMAN PUFFS.
Ingredients required :—One pound of flour, ten ounces of butter,
six eggs, a gill of cream, one ounce of sugar, one ounce of German
yeast, a very iittle salt, with the rind of two oranges rubbed on a piece
of sugar and the zest then scraped off.
First, set the sponge, with one-fourth part of the flour and the yeast,
in the usual manner, and let it rise in a warm temperature; meanwhile
spread the flour out in the form of a ring, and place the sugar,
salt, butter, eggs, and cream in the centre; then work the whole
well together with both hands; gather it up in a heap towards the
edge of the slab; and with the knuckles of both hands bent under,
rub the paste quickly before you on the slab; then gather it up again
in a heap by taking up small portions at a time with both hands held
together, and fling it down on the slab with some force. This must
be constantly repeated for about five minutes. As soon as the sponge
has sufficiently risen, let it be added to the paste, and thoroughly
incorporated with it. The jfcrop/en-paste should now be gathered up,
and placed in a clean napkin previously ■trewn over with flour to


486 PUDDINGS.
the mould must then be filled up with 9ome vanilla-cu9tard prepared
for the purpose, part of which must, however, be reserved for the sauce.
The pudding should be steamed in the usnal way for about an hour
and a quarter, and when done, turned out on its dish, and the sauce
poured over it.
1392. PUDDING, A LA FRANCAISB.
Take the following ingredients :—Twelve ounces of chopped mar-
row, eight ounces of flour, eight ounces of apricot-jam, four ounces of
chopped apples, six ounces of dried cherries, six ounces of candied
orange-peel and citron, four ounces of sugar, a little grated nutmeg,
six cloves (pounded), a tea-spoonful of cinnamon-powder, the zest of
the rind of two oranges on sugar, five whole eggs, a glass of brandy, a
little salt, and about half a pint of cream.
Put the above ingredients into a large basin, and mix them well
together; spread a mould with butter, shake a little flour about the
inside, fill it with the pudding, and after tying it up in a cloth, boil it
for about four hours, and when done, dish it op with a German custard-
sauce, made as follows :—
Put four yolks of eggs into a bain-marie or st%wpan, together with
two ounces of pounded sugar, a glass of Sherry, some orange or lemon
peel (rubbed on loaf sugar), and a very little salt. Whisk this sharply
over a very slow fire, until it assumes the appearance of a light frothy
custard.
1393. PUDDING, A LA VIENNOISB.
Ingredients required :—Twelve ounces of brioche, or crumb of
bread cut up into small dice, two glasses of Madeira, the rind of two
lemons, two ounces of sweet, and half an ounce of bitter almonds
pounded, six ounces of sultana raisins, a burnt-sugar custard, made with
eight yolks of eggs, a pint of cream, two ounces of burnt-sugar, and
sweetened with six ounces of loaf-sugar.
Put the brioche, almonds, rind of lemon (rubbed on sugar), and the
sultanas, into a large basin ; pour the Madeira to this, and when it has
been absorbed by the brioche, <fcc, pour as much of the burnt-sugar
custard on it as will suffice to complete the quantity required to fill the
mould. Then, spread the inside of the mould with butter, decorate it
with candied orange-peel, and fill it with the above preparation. This
pudding must be steamed for about an hour and a half, and when done,
turned out on its dish, some custard or arrow-root-sauce poured over
it, and sent to table.
1394. CABINET PUDDING.
Spread the inside of a plain mould with butter, and ornament the
sides with dried cherries and candied citron; fill the mould with alter-
nate layers of slices of sponge-caltes and ratafias or macaroons; then
fill up the mould with a lemon custard made with eight yolks of eggs,
a pint of milk or cream, six ounces of sugar, a glass of brandy, and the
grated rind of a lemon. This custard must not be set, but merely
mixed up. Steam the pudding in the usual way, for about an hour
and a half, and when done, dish it up either with arrow-root-sauce or a
custard.


ORANGE PUDDING. 487
1395. CHESTNUT PUDDING.
Bake or boil fifty fine chestnuts, rob their pulp through a sieve, and
place this in a stewpan with a pint of cream, four ounces of butter,
six ounces of sugar, a pounded stick of vanilla, and a very little salt;
stir these ingredients over a stove-fire until the preparation thickens,
and then quicken ihe motion of the spoon, so as to prevent the paste
from adhering to the bottom of the stewpan. As soon as it leaves
the sides of the stewpan, remove it from the fire, add eight yolks, and
the whites of six eggs whipped firm; pour the pudding mixture into
a plain monld, previously spread with butter, and then steam it for
about an hour and a half. When the pudding is done, turn it carefully
out of the mould on its dish, pour some warm diluted apricot-jam over
it, and serve.
1396. GINGER PUDDING.
Ingredients required:—Six ounces of flour, six ounces of sugar, six
eggs, eight ounces of preserved ginger, a pint of cream, six ounces of
butter, a little salt.
Put the cream, sugar, butter, and salt into a stewpan on the fire,
and as soon as these begin to simmer, take off the stewpan, throw in
the flour, and stir the whole together quickly; then put this paste
back again on the fire, and continue stirring it for about five minutes;
it must then be withdrawn, and the six eggs mixed in gradually with
it. The ginger, cut into small pieces, must now be added to the
preparation, which must then be poured into the mould previously
spread with butter. Steam it for an hour and a half, and when done,
dish up the pudding with a custard-sauce made with the syrup from
the ginger.
1397. PINE-APPLE PUDDING.
This is made in the same manner as the above, pine-apple being
substituted for ginger.
1398. LEMON PUDDING.
Ingredients required:—The juice and grated rind (rubbed on
sugar) of six lemons, a pint of cream, six ounces of bruised ratafias,
twelve yolks and the whites of four eggs, whipped, half a nutmeg grated,
a little cinnamon powder, twelve ounces of pounded sugar, and a very'
little salt.
Mix the above altogether in a large basin, and work the ingredients
together with a whisk for about ten minutes. Next, put a border of
puff-paste round the edge of a tart dish, spread the dish with butter,
pour the batter into it, strew some shred pistachio kernels on the top,
and bake it for about half an hour (at moderate heat). When done,
shake some sifted sugar over it, and serve.
1399. ORANGE PUDDING.
This is made as the above; double the quantity of oranges may be
used for this purpose, owing to their not containing so much acid as
lemons; but the rind of three will suffice for the zest.


488 PUDDINGS.
1400. BREAD PUDDING, PLAIN.
Ingredients :—Twelve ounces of bread-crumbs, six ounces of sugar,
two ounces of butter, a pint of milk, the rind of a lemon rubbed on a
piece of sugar, six yolks of eggs, and two whites whipped, and a little
salt.
Put the bread-crumbs into a basin with the sugar, butter, lemon-
sugar, and salt; then pour in the milk boiling, cover up the whole,
and leave it to steep for about ten minutes; the eggs may then be
added, and after the whole has been well mixed together, pour the
preparation into a mould, or pudding basin, previously spread with
butter. Steam the pudding for about an hour, and when done, dish
it up with some arrow-root sauce made as follows: Mix a dessert-
spoonful of arrow-root with twice that quantity of sugar, half the
juice of a lemon, a little nutmeg, and a gill of water, and stir this over
the fire until it boils.
1401. RUSK PUDDING.
Ingredients :—A dozen rusks, a plain custard of six eggs, a pint
of cream, six ounces of sugar, a glass of maraschino, a little salt, and
four ounces of dried cherries.
Spread a plain mould with butter, arrange the cherries round the
sides and bottom, dip the rusks in the custard, and place them in the
mould with a layer of raspberry-jam between each layer of rusks; fill
up the mould with the custard, and steam the pudding in the usual
manner. When done, dish it up with a German custard-sauce
(No. 1392).
1402. APPLE PUDDING.
Peel two dozen grey russets, remove the cores, and cut them up in
slices; then put the apples into a deep sautapan with four ounces of
butter, the rind of two lemons, twelve ounces of pounded sugar, and
one pound of apricot-jam; toss the whole over a slow stove-fire until
the apples begin to dissolve, and then set them aside to cool. Next,
line a good-sized pudding basin with some light-made suet paste, fill
this with the prepared apples, place a covering of paste on the top,
fasten it down securely, and then steam it in the usual manner for about
two hours. When the pudding is done, dish it up, pour some warm
apricot jam over it, and serve.
1403. BISCUIT PUDDING, A LA PRINCE ALBERT.
Ingredients :—Twelve ounces of crumbled Savoy cake, a pint of
cream, the yolks of six eggs and the whipped whites of two, the rind
of a lemon rubbed on sugar, four ounces of pounded sugar, and a little
salt
.
Pour the pint of cream (boiling) on to the crumbled Savoy cake
and let it steep for a few minutes: then add the sugar, the eggs, the
lemon-sugar, and the salt; mix the whole lightly together, pour the
preparation into a mould spread with butter, and steam the pudding
for about an hour and a quarter. When done, dish it up with a purie
of currants and raspberries for the sauce, or else serve a custard-sauce
over it.


JELLIES. 491
six whites and two whole eggs together, with half a pint of spring-
water; throw this in with the stock, and whisk the whole together
over the stove-fire, until it is on the point of boiling, then add the juice
of another lemon and a little spring-water; withdraw the jelly fr#m
the stove, and set it down by the side, to continue gently simmering
for about ten minutes longer, covered with the stewpan lid containing
some live embers of charcoal. The jelly may then be passed through
the bag in the usual way, and when it has run through perfectly bright,
let it be kept in a cool place to be used as occasion may require.
This kind of foundation or stock-jelly, prepared without any decided
flavor, may be used for making all kinds of jellies; it will then only be
necessary to add, to the quantity required to fill a mould, a gill and a
half of any kind of liqueur, and if the jelly be too stiff, a little thin
syrup may also be added. It may be used likewise for making fruit
jellies, with the addition of a pint of the filtered juice of currauts,
raspberries, cherries,' or strawberries, or half a pint of the clarified in-
fusion syrup of peaches, apricots, or pine-apples.
1409. ORANGE JELLY, MADE WITH CALF'S-FOOT STOCK.
To the stock produced from four calf's feet, add two pounds of loaf-
sugar, the juice of six lemons and a dozen oranges, and the rind of
eight oranges; put the stewpan oti the fire to melt the stock, and then
pour in the whipped whites of eggs, and continue whisking thejelly on
the stove-fire until it begins to simmer; it must then be set down by
the side of the stove-fire, covered with the stewpan lid, and allowed to
continue simmering until the egg is set; the jelly must then be passed
through the bag in the usual way, and just before putting it into the mould,
a few drops of prepared cochineal should be added to give it an orange-
pink tinge.
Note.—Lemon jelly is prepared in the same way as the above, sub-
stituting lemons for oranges.
1410. CLARIFIED SYRUP, FOR JELLIES.
To every pound of the finest loaf sugar, whatever quantity may be
required^ add rather more than a pint of spring-water; and when the
sugar is' dissolved, add half the white of an egg whipped up with a
little water; whisk the whole well together, set the stewpan on the
stove-fire, and as soon as the syrup begins to boil, set it down by the
side of the fire to continue gently boiling, until it has thrown up all
the scum; remove this as it rises to the surface, and then strain the
syrup through a napkin into a basin, and keep it in a cool place for
use.
1411. TO CLARIFY ISINGLASS.
First wash the isinglass in cold water, to free it from the dust that
is apt to gather about it; then put it into a stewpan, and to every two
ounces add half a pint of spring-water, and about one ounce of sugar;
stir this on the stove-fire till it boils, then throw in the juice of half a
lemon, and set the stewpan by the side of the stove, to continue gently
boiling for about ten minutes, in order to dissolve the shreds of isin-
glass, and that it may thereby throw up all the scum, which should be


494 JELLIES.
of these frnits, when mixed with currant and raspberry jelly, prepared
according to the foregoing directions, will make it most delicious.
1419. STRAWBERRY JELLY.
Pick the stalks from two pottles of scarlet strawberries, put these
into a basin, and then pour one pint of clarified boiling syrup and
half a pint of red-currant juice on to them; cover them down with a
sheet of paper, tightly twisted round the edges of the basin, and allow
the infusion to stand in a cool place until it becomes cold; then,
filter it through a bearer jelly bag in the usual way, and when the
whole has run through perfectly bright, mix it with two ounces of
clarified isinglass, and set the jelly in a mould, immersed in rough
ice.
Note.—This jelly should be garnished with a pottle of fine "British
Queen" strawberries.
1420. CHERRY JELLY.
Pick the stalks from two pounds of Kentish cherries and a handful
of red currants, and pound them in the mortar in order to bruise the
stones and kernels; then take them up and place them in a small pre-
serving pan, with one pound of fine loaf-sugar and half a pint of spring-
water; set this to boil on the stove-fire for about five minutes, taking
care to remove the scum as it rises to the surface: the whole must
then be poured into a beaver jelly-bag, and filtered in the usual way.
The juice should next be mixed with two ounces of clarified isinglass,
and poured into a mould imbedded in rough ice. The jelly may be
garnished with cherries from which the stones must be removed.
1421. MULBERRY JELLY.
This is prepared in the same way as strawberry jelly (No. 1419).
1422. MACEDOINE OF FRUITS.
This may be made with every kind of jelly, which should be mixed
with a variety of the most delicate fruits in season: these should be
arranged with taste, so as to show their forms and colors to the best
advantage. The fruits most appropriate for this purpose are peaches,
nectarines, apricots, all kinds of plums, strawberries, raspberries, mul-
berries, red, white, and black currants, cherries, pears, oranges, pome-
granates, grapes, &c
1423. ORANGE JELLY, GARNISHED WITH QUARTERS OF ORANGES.
Peel six oranges with a sharp knife, leaving the transparent pulp
quite bare; divide each into six, cutting the orange lengthwise, thus
giving an angular form to the pieces; put these into a small preserving
pan, with a pint of clarified syrup, and set the whole to boil on the
stove-fire for not more than two minutes, then pour the pieces of
oranges and their syrup into a basin, and set them aside in a cool
place. Prepare about a pint of bright orange jelly in the manner
directed in No. 1412, using the syrup from the pieces of oranges,
which must be drained upon a sieve for that purpose. Next, imbed
a plain mould in some pounded rough ice contained in an earthen
pan, and proceed to garnish it with the pieces of oranges and the jelly,


JELLIES. 495
first pouring a little jelly on the bottom of the mould, then, when the
jelly is set, arrange a layer of the pieces of oranges upon it in close
• circular order, one resting upon another; pour sufficient jelly upon
these to reach their surface, and when this has become firm, place
another layer of oranges upon it, and so on, until the mould is filled.
1424. MARASCHINO JELLY.
To one pint of clarified syrup, add two ounces of clarified isinglass,
the filtered juice of two lemons, and a gill and a half of genuine mara-
schino; pour'this into a jelly-mould ready set in rough ice.
Note.—Jellies flavored with noyeau, kirschen-wasser, Dantzic brandy,
cedratti, and all kinds of liqueurs, when made with isinglass, are pre-
pared as the above. .
1425. VARIEGATED JELLY, A LA VICTORIA.
Prepare some jelly, with Dantzic brandy (sometimes named "gold-
and-silver-water"). Parboil and remove the skin from six ounces
of pistachios, and shred each kernel into six strips. Set a jelly-mould
in some ponnded rongh ice contained in a pan, pour a little of the
jelly into the bottom of the mould, and then strew some of the pre-
pared pistachios in it; when this has become firm, pour in a little
more of the jelly and strew a few of the pistachios in it; as these
layers become set, repeat the same until the mould is filled, and allow
the jelly to remain imbedded in the ice for a sufficient time to congeal
it properly.
1426. PANACHEE* JELLY.
This may be prepared with any kind of light-colored jelly, which
must be divided into two equal parts: add a few drops of cochineal to
one-half, and leave the remainder plain. Then, imbed the mould in
rough ice, pour enough of the pink jelly into the mould to reach
about a quarter of an inch up the sides, and when this has become
set, pour as much of the plain jelly upon it; when this has congealed,
repeat another layer of the pink jelly, and go on alternating the (lif-
erent colored layers of jelly until the mould is filled.
The design for this kind of jelly may be varied according to taste,
by attending to the following directions :—
Fill two small plain moulds with different colored jelly, such as
pink and white noyeau, or amber and very light pink-orange jelly, and
when these are become firm, turn the jellies out of their respective
moulds upon a clean napkin. Next, imbed a plain mould in some
rongh ice, and then cut the different colored jellies into strips, or
any kind of fancy shaped ornaments, which must be so managed as to
admit of their being fitted into each other, thus entirely covering the
bottom of the mould with the design so formed; a little of the jelly
must first be poured at the bottom of the mould, to cause the decoration
to adhere together. The sides of the mould should then be ornamented
by placing alternate strips of the different jellies in a perpendicular
• Derived from another French word, panache, a plume—a graceful feather. This
jelly first received its name at the period of the first French Revolution, when it waa
customary for the representatives of the French people to wear a tri-colored plume in
their hats.


496 EUSSIAN JELLIES.
position, and these most first be dipped in a little liquid jelly. Th«
mould being lined according to the foregoing directions, the hollow
may be filled up with either a Macedoine jelly of fruits, with any kind
of cream, or with the remainder of the same, so arranged in it as to
have the appearance of marble when cut.
1427. RUSSIAN JELLY.
Put about two-thirds of either of the fore-mentioned kinds of jelly
into a basin, partially imbedded in rough ice, then whip the jelly with
a whisk, until it assumes the appearance of a substantial froth, and
begins to thicken; it must then be immediately poured into a mould,
and kept in ice until required to be served.
1428. PUNCH JELLY.
Put the prepared stock from four calves'-feet into a stewpan, to
melt on the stove-fire; then withdraw it, and add thereto the follow-
ing ingredients :—Two pounds of loaf-sugar, the juice of six lemons
and four oranges, the rind of one Seville orange and of four lemons,
half a nutmeg, twelve cloves, and two sticks of cinnamon, a small cup
of strong green tea, a pint of mm, half a pint of brandy, and a glass
of arrack. Stir these well together, then add six whites and two
whole eggs whipped up with a little Sherry and spring-water, and
continue whisking the punch on a brisk-stove-fire until it begins to
simmer, then set it down by the side of the fire, and cover the stew-
pan with its lid containing some live embers of charcoal; about ten
minutes after, pour the jelly into a flannel or beaver filtering-bag,
keep pouring the jelly back into the bag until it becomes quite clear
and bright, and when the whole has run through, set it in a mould in
ice in the usual way.
1429. ORANGES FILLED WITH TRANSPARENT JELLY.
Select half a dozen oranges without specks on the rind, make a
hole at the stalk-end with a circular tin cutter, about half an inch in
diameter, and then use a small teaspoon to remove all the pulp and
loose pith from the interior; when this is effected, soak the oranges
in cold water for about an hour, then introduce the spoon through
the aperture, and scrape the insides smooth, and after rincing them
again in cold water, set them to drain on a cloth. Next, stop op any
holes that may have been made in them while scooping out the pulp,
and set the oranges in some pounded rough ice contained in a deep
sautapan; fill three of them with bright pink-orange-jelly, and the
remainder with plain jelly. When the jelly has become firm, wipe
the oranges with a clean cloth, cut each into four quarters, dish them
up tastefully on an ornamental pastry-stand, or upon a napkin, and
send to table.
Note.—Lemons may be prepared in the same way as the above.
1429a. LEMONS FILLED WITH JELLY A LA BELLEVUE.
These are to be prepared in this instance as directed in the
preceding article; and are afterwards to be filled with alternate
layers of lemon-jelly and Blanc-manger. Cut them up in the same
way as oranges.


498 CREAMS.
half of clarified isinglass; poor the cream into a mould, previously
oiled with oil of sweet almonds, set it in rough ice, and when it has
become firm, turn it out on its dish.
Note.—Raspberries, mulberries, currants and raspberries may be
prepared for .making Bavarian creams, by following the above
directions.
1433. APRICOT BAVARIAN CREAM.
Split a dozen ripe apricots, and remove the stones; place the
pieces in a small preserving-pan, with twelve ounces of pounded sugar,
and a gill of spring water, then stir them on the fire and let them
boil until the fruit is entirely dissolved; this purPe must then be
rubbed through a clean hair-sieve into a large basin, and mixed with
a pint of whipped cream, and one ounce and a half of clarified isin-
glass ; pour the cream into an oiled mould, and set it in rough ice, in
the usual way.
This sort of cream may be prepared with all kinds of plums, instead
of apricots.
1434. COFFEE CREAM.
Roast eight ounces of Mocha coffee-berries in a small preserving-
pan over a stove-fire, stirring it the whole time with a wooden spoon,
until it assumes a light-brown color; then blow away the small
burnt particles, and throw the roasted coffee into a stew-pan contain-
ing a pint of boiling milk or cream, put the lid on the stewpan, and
6et it aside to allow the infusion to draw out the flavor of the coffee.
Next strain this through a napkin into a stewpan containing eight
yolks of eggs and twelve ounces of sugar, add a very small pinch of
salt, stir the cream over the stove-fire until it begins to thicken, then
quicken the motions of the spoon, and when the .yolks of eggs arc
sufficiently set, strain the cream through a tammy or sieve into a large
basin. Mix half a pint of whipped cream and one ounce and a half
of clarified isinglass in with this, pour the whole into a mould ready
set in rough ice for the purpose, and when the cream has become
firm, dip the mould in warm water, and turn the cream out on its
dish.
1435. CHOCOLATE CREAM.
Grate eight ounces of vanilla chocolate, put this into a stewpan
with eight ounces of sugar, eight yolks of eggs, and a pint of cream;
stir the whole over a stove-fire until the preparation begins to thicken;
and the yolks of eggs are sufficiently set without allowing them to
curdle, strain them through a tammy, with pressure, into a basin;
.odd half a pint of whipped cream, and one ounce and a half of clarified
isinglass, mix the whole well together, and . pour it iuto a mould pre-
viously imbedded in rough ice, to receive it.
1436. BURNT CREAM.
Put two ounces of pounded sugar into a stewpan, with the grated
rind of two lemons; stir these with a wooden spoon over a slow fire,
.until the sugar begins to assume a rather light-brown color,; 'then
pour in a pint of cream, add to this eight ounces of sugar, eight yolks
of eggs, and a little salt, and stir the whole over a stove-lire until the


500
APRICOT CHEESE.
1441a, CREAM A LA ROMAINE.
Blanch four ounces of Jordan almonds with one ounce of bitter
almonds, and when freed from their hulls, washed and wiped dry, let
them be chopped rather fine. Next, place them in a sugar-boiler and
stir them over a stove-fire with a wooden spoon until they have acquired
a very light-brown color; these almonds should now be thrown into a
pint of milk that has been kept boiling for the purpose; to this add
six ounces of sugar and eight yolks of eggs, and stir the whole quickly
over the fire until the yolks are set; when the cream must be imme-
diately removed from the fire, and stirred for a few minutes longer, pre-
viously to its being rubbed through a tammy like a puree. The produce
will present a light fawn-colored thick cream ; this must be mixed first,
with rather better than an ounce of clarified isinglass, and then, three
gills of whipped cream are to be lightly yet well incorporated. Pour
the cream into a mould, and set it iu ice as usual.
1441J. CREAM A LA CHATEAUBRIAND.
Set a jelly-mould in ice, and then proceed to ornament the bottom
and sides with blanched almonds that have been split and well soaked
to whiten them, each being first dipped in some rather strong and per-
fectly colorless jelly, previously to its being stuck to the sides of the
mould. When the mould is thus ornamented, pour some of the same
jelly into it, and by gently and gradually moving the mould round
(side-ways) in the ice, cause the jelly to form a thin coating over the
almonds. When the latter part of the process is satisfactorily effected,
proceed to effect another coating about the third of an inch thick, with
some pistachio cream (No. 1438); and when this is firmly set, fill up
the cavity with some cream d la Romaine (No. 1441a).
Note.—An infinite variety of creams, usually designated "en
surprise," may be thus produced by using two different preparations
of different creams, such as currant and orange-flower, apricot and
vanilla, peach and noyeau, chocolate and white coffee, <fec.
1442. CURRANT AND RASPBERRY TRANSPARENT CHEESE.
Pick the stalks from a quart of ripe red currants and a pottle of
raspberries; put these into a Bmall preserving-pan with one pound of
pounded sugar and a gill of water; stir the whole on a stove-fire and
keep it boiling for about five minutes; remove the scum as it rises to
the surface, and then rub the whole through a hair-sieve into a large
basin; add two ounces of clarified isinglass, and then ponr it into a
jelly-mould, ready imbedded in rongh ice to receive it. When this
kind of cheese is set firm, dip the mould in warm water, wipe it, and
turn the cheese out on its dish; fill the well or cylinder with some
stiffly-whipped cream, and serve. »
1443. APRICOT CHEESE, A LA CHANTILLT.
Remove the stones from eighteen ripe apricots, and put them into
a small preserving-pan with one pound of loaf sugar, and a gill of
spring water; stir this on a brisk stove-fire, until the whole of the


MINCE-MEAT. 501
fruit is entirely dissolved; and then rub it through a hair-sieve into a
large basin ; add two ounces of clarified isinglass, and fill a jelly-mould
(ready imbedded in rough ice) with the preparation When the cheese
is set firm, turn it out on its dish, and fill the centre with whipped
cream.
Note.—These cheeses may be made of, every kind of fruit before
directed to be used for both jellies and creams; and also with pears,
apples, and quinces.
1444. MINCE-MEAT.
Thoroughly cleanse four pounds of currants, and remove the stones
from four pounds of raisins; cut up two pounds of candied citron,
one pound of candied lemon, and one pound of orange-peel, into
shreds, or very small dice; remove the skin, and then chop four
pounds of fresh beef-suet, and place this with the currants and the
candied peel in an earthen pan; next chop the raisins with four
pounds of peeled apples, and add them to the other ingredients.
Trim away all the sinewy parts from eight pounds of roasted sirloin
of beef, and chop all the lean of the meat quite fine; this will pro-
duce about four pounds, which must also be placed in the pan. To
the foregoing must now be added four pounds of moist sugar, four
ounces of ground spice—consisting of nutmegs, cloves, and cinnamon
in equal proportions, with the grated rind of twelve oranges, and of the
same number of lemons; the whole must then be thoroughly mixed
together, and pressed down to a level in the pan. Two bottles of
brandy, and a like quantity of Madeira, sherry or port, should be
poured into the mince-meat. Put the lid on the pan, place a cloth
over it, and tie it down close, so as to exclude the air as much as pos-
sible, and also to prevent the evaporation of the brandy, &c The
mince-meat should be kept in a cool place, and will be fit for use a
fortnight after it is made.
1445. LEMON MINCE-MEAT.
Boil, four lemons till quite tender, then pound them in a mortar or
chop them up while warm, adding to them two pounds of pounded
loaf sugar; let this stand till next day, then add two pounds of suet,
two pounds of currants, one pound of raisins chopped, a little brandy,
one ounce of mixed spice, and port wine, to taste, say half a pint of
brandy and wine together.
1446. MINCE MEAT, A LA ROYALE.
To equal proportions of roast beef, raisins, currants, suet, candied
citron, orange, lemon, spices and sugar, add a proportionate weight of
stewed pears and preserved ginger, the grated rind of three dozen
oranges and lemons, and also their juice, one bottle of old rum, one
bottle of brandy, and two of old port.


502
PEAR CHARLOTTE.
144?. APPLE CHARLOTTE.
"To prepare' this erttremet'm great perfection it is necessary that a
crumb-loaf of close-made bread should be ordered two days previous
for the purpose; this, it' must be owned, is not positively necessary;
therefore, in its stead, a stale quartern loaf may answer the purpose well
enough.
First of all, some apple marmalade must be prepared as follows :—
Let two or three dozen apples be peeled, cored, sliced up, and placed
in a stewpan with one poond of sugar, two ounces of butter, and some
lemon-peel and cinnamon tied together; moisten with half a pint of
water, place the lid on the stewpan, and then set the apples to boil
sharp on a quick stove until they are melted. You then remove the
lid, and with a wooden spoon continue stirring the marmalade over a
brisk fire until it is reduced to a rather stiff consistency.
A plain round c/iaWofl4-mould must now be lined at the bottom
with small thin circular pieces of bread, dipped in clarified butter, and
placed so as to overlap each other until the bottom of the mould is well
covered. Next, cut some oblong-squares of thin bread, also dipped in
clarified butter, and set these up the sides of the mould overlapping
each other—in order Jhat they may be thus enabled to hold firmly to
the sides of the mould. Fill the cavity with the apple-marmalade,
cover in the top with a thin circular piece of bread dipped in butter,
place the charlotte on a baking-sheet, and bake it in a rather brisk
oven, of a light color; and when done, turn it out on its dish, glaze it
oh the top with sifted sugar and a red-hot salamander; pour some
diluted apricot-jam round the baseband serve.
* 1448. APPLE CHARLOTTE, ANOTHER WAY.
The apples in this case must be cut up thin, and placed in a deep
gautapan containing three ounces of dissolved butter, six ounces of
pounded sugar, the grated rind of a lemon, and a pinch of cinnamon
powder; toss the whole over a stove-fire until the apples begin to melt
their angles; then add a pound-pot of apricot-jam, toss the whole
gently together, and place this preparation in the centre of & charlotte-
mould, liued as directed in the foregoing article, and proceed in all
other respects as therein prescribed.
1449. CHARLOTTE, A LA PARISIENNfl.
FiE8T, bake a thin sheet of Genoese, and when this has become thor-
oughly cold, proceed to cut it out into twenty-four oblong-squares,
measuring four inches long, by an inch wide; also about twelve half-
moon or crescent shapes, Of an equal size, in order that these may
closely fit in with each other, so as to effectually cover the bottom of a
charlotte-mould ; a circular piece must also be prepared, with which to
finish the centre. All these pieces must be glazed over with icing pre-
pared of two colors in equal numbers; as, for instance, one-half being
pink, amber, green, or chocolate; while the other half is to be white.
With the foregoing, line the mould, and then fill the centre with any
kind of cream described at No. 1431 and following numbers.
1450. PEAR CHARLOTTE, A L'aLLEMANDE.
Peel, quarter, and core a dozen baking-pears; stew them in three
pints of water with three quarters of a pound of sugar, some lemon-


PEACHES A LA RICHELIEU. 503
peel, and cinnamon, until done. The pears, must then be drained
npon a sieve,, and when comparatively dry, must be tossed in a sauta-
pan with a pound-pot of red-plum or damson-jam, and used to fill in
the centre of a bread-lined charlotte-mould, and then baked; and, on
the charlotte being dished up, some honey, diluted with orange flower-
water (warm), poured round the base, and sent to table.
1451. PEACH CHARLOTTE, A LA FRANCAI9E.
Arout one dozen not over-ripe peaches, cut into quarters, skinned,
and the kernels taken from the stones, should be placed in a sautapan
with a pound-pot of peach-marmalade; the whole to be tossed over a
stove-fire until the pieces of peach are just barely warmed through;
and with this preparation fill a lined charlotte-moalA—brioche being
used for the purpose instead of bread. When this charlotte is sent to
table, some currant-jelly, diluted with a glass of noyeau, should be
poured round the base.
1452. APRICOT CHARLOTTE.
This is prepared in the same manner as the foregoing, substituting
apricots for peaches, and apricot-marmalade for peach ditto; and,
when the charlotte is turned out on to its dish, pour some honey,
diluted with a liqueur called Ratafia d'Abricdts round the base, and
serve.
1453. CBOUTES AUX PECHES.
With the remains of Brioche, Gompiigne, Konglbiiffi or Savarin
cakes, cut some oblong shapes, about three inches long, by one inch
wide; sugar over, and glaze these with a heated salamander; then,
spread each with some peach-jam, and, after having first made a ring
on the dish with some of the jam, proceed to dish up these fingers,
each resting upon the other in the form of a high wreath; on the top
of this, some halves of peaches (previously boiled for about three
minutes in syrup) must be closed, dressed: and, having filled the hollow
centre of the entremet with whipped cream, stick a feather of green
angelica in the summit, decorate the pieces of peach with preserved
cherries, raspberries, strawberries, or currant-jelly; pour some maras-
chino over the crusts, and round the base, and serve.
1454. PEACHES, A LA RICHELIEU.
Halt a pound office boiled thoroughly tender in a quart of milk,
six ounces of sugar, two ounces of butter, seasoned with a stick of
vanilla, and a pinch of salt; which, when done, must be first worked
together with a wooden spoon, and then, with some of this, proceed
to form a circular base about two inches high, in the inner part of
the dish; and, on the outer part of this base, dress some peaches
Srcpared as for a compote, in a thick circle, each overlapping the other;
11 the centre of these with a piece of the prepared rice about three
inches high, and upon this eminence build up a pyramid of peaches;
over the whole pour some strawberry jelly. Round the base of the
entremet, place a border of preserved greengages; stick a plume made
of angelica on the summit, and finish by pouring some vanilla liqueur
round the base.


504
ICED SOUFFLE.
1455. SUPREME OF FRUITS, A LA VICTORIA.
Foa this purpose, some Genoese cake about an inch thick should
be first prepared, and, out of this, three or fonr graduated circular
pieces should be cut; the largest, with which to form the basement,
must be eight inches in diameter, the next six, the third four, and
lastly finishing with a round piece an inch and a half in diameter;
these being stuck one upon the other with some kind of fruit jam,
will thus produce a kind of pyramid. Upon this elevation, closely
connected rows of either peaches, apricots, pears, or apples, prepared
as for compotes, must be placed; finishing at the summit with a vase
or cup formed out of apple or pear, and filled with a Macedoine of
fruits. Mask the rows of fruit with some apricot jam, diluted with
maraschino; and with a paper cornet or biscuit-forcer, fill with
whipped cream, ornament the base of the entremet in wave-like fash-
ion, upon these place some plumed pieces of green angelica.
1456. POIRKS OF CROQUETTES.
About twelve middle-sized pears of good quality must be turned
smoothly in their own shape, and gently simmered in a little syrup
until done. Some rice must be prepared as for a rice cake, which
must be made rather stiff, and steamed in a plain border mould; this,
when done, must be turned out on to its dish, the pears are to be placed
upright thereon in a circular row, and masked all over with diluted
apricot-jam; on the stalk-end place a Mirabelle plum, and through
this a piece of green Angelica, so as to form the stalk; fill the centre
with some of the rice (reserved for this purpose), mixed with an equal
quantity of whipped cream, at the summit of which a plume of green
angelica must be stuck; ornament the base with a compote of green-
gages, and serve.
1457. ICED SOUFFLE, WITH MARASCHINO.
Ingredients :—One pint of clarified syrup, twelve yolks of eggs, and
two whole eggs, a large wine-glassful of maraschino.
Mix the whole of the ingredients in an earthen basin; then ponr
the preparation into an egg-bowl that has been previously warmed
with hot water and wiped dry; whisk the souffle' briskly (the egg-bowl
being placed on a store containing hot ashes) until it resembles a
well-prepared firm sponge-cake batter. Next, fill a soi/J^e-dish-liniDg;
with the whisked preparation to an inch or two above the rim, a band
of stout paper having been secured round the case with a pin or
string, to prevent the preparation from flowing over. The souffle must
now be placed in a circular tin box with a tight-fitting lid; the box
to be immersed in pounded ice mixed with salt and half a pouud of
saltpetre well mixed, a wet cloth being placed over the top, and
allowed to remain thus in ice for about three hours before it is served;
when previously to sending the souffle to table, the band of paper must
be removed, and some sifted macaroon powder or grated chocolate
shook over the surface, in order to give it the appearance of a baked
souffle.
1458. ICED SOUFFLE, OR CAFE.
This is prepared in exactly the same manner as the foregoing, with
the exception that either a white infusion of coffee, or a small cup of


508 BILLS OF FARE
Drams fob 6 Persons. January.
Oz-tail clear soap.
1 Fi$h.
Broiled Herrings, with mustard sauce.
Snipe pudding, a la D'Orsay. 12 Removes.] Roast saddle of mutton.
2 Entries:
Blanquette'of fowl with mushrooms. Scollops of beef, a la Napolitaine.
Second Coram.
Roast Pheasant.
3 Entremets:
Brussels-sprouts, a la oreme. Meringues, with
Fears and rice, a la Conde.
Dinner for 6 Persons. January.
Vermicelli soup, a la Windsor.
1 Fish.
Turbot, with lobster sauce.
Boiled neck of mutton, with [2 Removes.] Partridges, a la Seville.
mashed turnips.
2 Entries:
Fillets of rabbits, a la Mareohale. Frioasse of chicken, in a border of rice
Second Course.
Roast wild duck.
3 Entremets:
Jerusalem artichokes, a l'Espagnole. Custards in glasses.
Tourte of apples, a la Cobourg.
Dinner for 6 Persons. January.
Jardiniere clear soup.
lFish.
Whitings au gratin.
Roast neck of venison. [2 Removes. ] Braised pheasant, with Sou-
bise sauce.
2 Entries:
Quenelles of fowl, a l'essenoe. Tendons of real, with a puree of spinach.
Second Comm.
Roast larks.
3 Entremets:
Brown-bread pndding, a la Qotha (preserved cherries).
Turnips glaces a l'Espagnole. Apple fritters.


■
FOR JANUARY.
5bJ
Dinner foe 10 Persons. January.
Bisque of lobster Soap.
IFish.
Crimpt ood, with oyster sauce, garnished with fried imelti.
Patties, a la Monglas.
2 Removes. -
Roast turkey, a la Perigord. Braized ham with spinach.
2 Entries:
Fat livers, a la Financiers. Fillets of partridges, a la Luoullua,
Baxmm Comm.
Roast blaok-oook. [2 Roasts.] Roast Teal.
1 Remove.
Souffle' of apples, a la Venitienne.
4 EntremtU.
Mecca loaves, with apricot. Braized celery.
Italian oream. Macaroni an gratin.
Dinner por 10 Persons. January.
Puree of grouse, a la Condi.
1 Fish.
Soles a la Matelotte Normande.
Boiled Poulard with Nouilles. [2 Removes.] * Roast saddle of mutton,
Croquettes of oysters
2 Entries:
Blanquette of pheasant and truffles. Cutlets of pork, Robert sanoe.
Bavmro Cocm.
Partridges. [2 Roasts.] Woodoooks.
[1 Remove.]
Fondu of Parmesan Cheese.
4 Entremets.
Apples a la ortme. Seakale a la Bechamel.
Pethiriera cakes. Punch-Jelly.


510 BILLS OF FARE
Dinner foe 10 Persons. January.
Oiblet soup, clear.
Baked haddock. [2 Fishes.] Fillets of soles an gratin.
Capon, a la Chipolata. [2 Removes.] Boiled leg of mutton, a VI
'glaise.
Oyster patties.
2 Entries:
Boudins of pheasant, a la d'Artois. Mutton cutlets, a la Russe.
Sbcokd Copbsb.
Lobster, au gratin. £2 Roasts.] Widgeon.
■A Entr emits:
Filbert-cream tartlets. Pears a la Condi.
Nojreau-jelly. Cardoons, & l'Espagnole.
Dinner for 10 Persons. January.
Soup, a la Julienne.
1F£»A.
Turbot,with lobster and Dutch sauces.
Fowls, a la Macecloine. [2 Removes.] Fillet of Beef larded, a la
Financiere.
* Fatties, a la Reine.
2 Entries:
Salmis of snipes, with truffles. Fillets of pigeons, a la de Luynes.
Second Coran.
Roast Hare. [2 Roasts.] Savarin, with cherries.
4 Entremets:
Spinaeh, with crdutons. Orange-jelly, in small baskets.
Charlotte, a la Parisienne. ProfitrolleB au chocolat.


FOB JANUARY. 511
Dinner for 12 Persons. January.
Soup a la Xavier. [2 Soups. ] Puree of fowl, a la Reine.
Fried smelts, with Dutch.sauce. [2 Fishes.] Crimped cod, a la creme an
gratin.
Braized ham, garnished with [2 Removes.] Roast loin of veal, a la Mon-
Brussels-sprouU. glas.
A Entries.
Fillets of partridges, a la de Lnynes. Kromeskys of lobsters, a la Russe.
Mutton outlets, a la Soubise. Scollops of fowls, with truffles.
Second Course.
Widgeon. [2 Romts.2 Woodcocks.
Fondn of Parmesan. [2 Removes.'] Iced padding, a la Cintra.
•6 Entremets:
Italian salad. Punch jelly.
Mushrooms, a la Proveacale. Damson tartlet*.
Apples and rice plain, with apricot jam. Mecca loaves, with rasberry jam.
Dinner for 12 Persons. January.
Flemish clear soup. [2 Soups.] Mock turtle.
Soles in Norman matelotte. [2 Fishes.] Haddocks, with egg sauoe.
Pheasants a la Dauphinoise. [2 Removes.] Roast saddle of mutton.
4 Entries:
Oyster patties. Boudins of fowl, a la Richelieu.
'Salmis of woodcocks, a l'ancienne. Scollops of sweetbreads, it la Villerol.
Second Course.
Larks. [2 Roasts.] Roast capon.
Ginger pudding. [2 Removes.] Souffle of arrow root.
6 Entremets:
Braized celery, a l'essence. Charlotte of apples.
Macaroni au gratin. D'Artois of strawberry jam.
Maraschino jelly. Italian cream.


514 BILLS OF FABE
Dum poe 8 Persons. February.
Cream of barley, a la Reine.
Matelotte of eels. [2 tithes. ] Crimped cod broiled, Dutch
sauce.
Pheasants a la Financiere. [2 Removes.] Braized roll of beef, a la Fla-
. mande.
Noukles with Parmesan.
2 Entries:
Scollops of fowls a l'ecalarte. Lamb cutlets bread-crumbed, with a
puree of celery.
Secokd Course.
Teal. [2 Roasts.] Macaroni, a l'ltalienne.
1 Remove.
Bice soufflee.
4 Entremets:
Canapes of anchovies. Tourte of pears, a la Cobourg.
Seakale, a la rechamel. Burnt cream, au caramel.
Dinner for 8 Persons. February
Soup a la Desclignac.
Crimped haddocks, Dutch sauce. [2 Fishes.] Fillets of brill, a la Marechale.
Boast haunch of mutton. [2 Removes.] Braized goose, a la Jardiniere.
Lobster patties.
2 Entries:
Chickens, a la Marengo. Salmis of Snipes, a la Talleyrand.
Second Coitrsr.
Black game. [2 Roasts.] Salad, & la Russe.
1 Remove.
Nouillos cake, a l'Allemande.
4 Entremets:
Celery, a la Villeroi. Profltrolles, a la creme.
Poached eggs, on anchovy toast. Apricot cheese, a la Chantilly.


FOR FEBRUARY. 515
Dinner foe 10 Persons. February.
Puree of Carrots, a la Stanley.
God a la Creme, au gratin. [2 Fishes. ] Water Souohet of Fillets of Soles.
Kromeskys of Lobster.
Boiled Turkey, with puree of [2 Removes.'] Braized Ham, au Madftre.
Celery.
2 Entries:
'SuprOme of fillets of Woodcocks, Cutlets of Sweetbreads, a la Dauphine.
a l'ancienne.
Second Couhse.
Roast Pheasants. [2 Roasts.] Timbale of Noukles.
4 Entremets.
Brocoli, au gratin. Currant and Raspberry jelly ("preserved).
Lobster salad. Meringues filled with Orange ice.
Dinner for 10 Persons. February.
Soup of Sturgeon's Head, a la Chinoise.
Cod's Sounds, a la Gasconne. [2 Fishes.] Fried Soles.
Patties au jus.
Pheasants a la Perigueuz. [2 Removes.] Boiled leg of Fork a l'Anglaise.
1 Entries:
Tendons of veal in a Chartreuse. Fricassee of chicken, a la St. Lambert.
Second Course.
Supreme of fruits. [2 Roasts.] Wild Ducks.
4 Entremets.
Apple tartlets. Mushrooms, au gratin.
Chestnut pudding. Vanilla cream.


516 BILLS OF FARE
Dinner for 10 Persons. February.
Bonne Femme Soup.
Whitings, au gratin. [2 Fishes.] Eels, a la Tartare.
Rissoles, a la Milanaise.
Capon a la Montmorency. [2 Removes.] Braized beef, a la D'Orleans.
2 Entries:
Fillets of chicken, a 1'Indienne. Paupiettes of Ox-palates, a la Financiere.
Secoxd Course.
Salad, a la Rnsse. [2 Roasts. ] Larks, bread-crumbed.
4 Entremets:
Apricots a la Conde. Nesselrode pudding.
Maraschino jelly. Mosaic tartlets.
Dinner for 10 Persons. February.
Bisque of rabbits.
1 Fish.
Haddocks, a la Belle-vue.
Ox-piths fried in batter.
Cairs-head a la Financiere. [2 Removes.] Small chickens, a la Vertprf.
2 Entries:
Mutton cutlets a la Pompadour. Scollops of fat li vers, with truffles and
fine-herbs.
Secoitd Comas,
Scolloped oysters. [2 Roasts.] Pintail.
4 Entrem/ts:
Krapfen with apricot Pudding, a la Viennoise.
Seakale a la sanoe. Champagne jelly.


FOR FEBRUARY. 617
Dinner foe 8 Persons. February.
Hare soup, a la Chasseur.
Turbot, lobster sauce. [2 fishes.] Broiled whitings, capers'sauce.
Capon and rice. [2 Removes.] Braized leg of mutton, it la Sou-
bise.
Patties, a la Mazarin.
2 Entries.
Grenadins of real larded, garnished Fillets of pheasants, & la Marechale.
with a Nivernaise.
Secosd Course.
Potato chips. [2 Roasts.] Ptarmegans.
1 Remove.
Apple pudding.
4 Entremets:
Braized Celery, garnished with crous- Orange jelly, a l'Anglaise.
tades of marrow. Bread-and-butter pastry.
Scolloped oysters.
Dinner for 8 Persons. February.
Ox-cheek soup, a la Flamande.
Brill, lobster sauce. [2 Fishes.] Baked QurnetB, Italian sauce.
Fillet of beef, Poivrade sauce. [2 Removes.] Braized Ducks, with turnips.
Tourte of godiveau, a la Ciboulette.
2 Entries:
Boudlns of pheasant, a la Victoria. Veal outlets, a la Regence.
Second Cocese.
German salad. [2 Roasts.] Woodcocks.
1 Remove.
Macaroni padding.
4 EntremiU:
Jerusalem artichokes, a l'Espagnole. Quarters of oranges filled with trans-
Eggs brouilles, with truffles. parent jelly.
Almond Oauifres, a la oreme.


518 BILLS OF FARE
• Dinner for 20 Persons. February.
Soup a la Sevignel. [2 Soups.'] Cream of rice, a la Chasseur.
Salmon, lobster sauce. [2 Fishes.] Slices of crimped Cod broiled,
a la Maitre d'hotel.
Ham, a la Parisienne [2 Removes.] Poulards, a la Roy ale.
Kromeskys of oysters.
8 Entries:
Fillets of rabbits larded, a l'ancienne. Lamb cutlets, with Macedoine of
Fricassee of chickens, a la St. Lambert. vegetables.
Pate-Chaud of larks, a la Périgueux. Fricandean, with puree of artichokes.
Border of rice, with puree of fowl, a la Fillets of partridges, with fumet.
Polonaise. k Mazarine of fat livers, a la Financier*
Second Course.
Snipes. [2 Rousts.] Pheasants.
Iced pudding, a la Syrienne. [2 Removes.] Souffle tartléts, a la D'Artois.
Nougat of almonds. [2 Flanks. ] Savoy cake in the form of a swan.
8 Entremets:
Aspic of lobsters, with mayonaise. Charlotte of apricots.
Russian salad. Orange jelly, garnished with oranges.
Spinach with oream. Florentines, with pistachios.
Broooli with Parmesan cheese. Cherry tartlets.
Dinner for 20 Persons. February.
Puree of pheasant. [2 Soups. ] Brunoise soup.
Crimped soles, Dutch sauce. [2 Fishes.] Fillets of turbot, a la Parisienne.
Turkey, a la Perigueux. [2 Removes.] Braized roll of beef, a la D'Or-
leans.
Marrow patties.
8 Entries:
Potato border, garnished with scol- Mutton cutlets, a la Duchesse.
lop3 of Larks. Fillets of fowls a l'ecarlate with Su-
Turban of ox-palates, an gratin. preme sauce.
Fillets of widgeons, a la Oasoonne. Sweetbreads larded, a la Monarque.
Calf's-ears, a la Tortue. Quenelles of partridge, al'Allemande.
Second Course.
Hares. [2 Roasts.] Black game.
Small fondus in cases. [2 Removes.] Polish Baba.
Sultana of spun sugar. [2 Flanks.] Meringue, a la Parisienne.
8 Entremets:
Truffles, a la Piemontaise. Variegated jelly, a la Victoria.
Crayfish, a la Poulette. Bavarian coffee cream.
Seakale with white sauce. Apricot nougats.
Brussels sprouts with Maitre d'hotel Mirlitons.
sauce. »


FOR FEBRUARY. 519
Dinner for 24 Persons. February.
Puree of turnips, a la Jardiniere. [2 Soups.'] Barley in consomme, a la Prin-
cesse.
John-Dory, Dutch sauoe. [3 Fishes.] Salmon, a la Regenee.
Fried smelts.
Calf's head, a la Financiere. [2 Removes.] Chickens, a la Montmorency.
Fillet of beef, a la Napolitaine. [2 Flunks.] Grenada ham, with spinach.
8 Entries:
2 Lamb Cutlets, a. la Chfrvreuse. 2 Fillets of Woodcocks, a la Valencay.
2 Scollops of fowls, with cucumbers. 2 Tim bales of macaroni, a la Chasseur.'
<-
Second Course.
Partridges. [2 Roasts.] Wild Ducks.
Talmouses with cheese. [2 Removes.] IcedPudding, a la Prince Albert.
Croquante of Ratafias. [2 Flanks.] Cake, a la Parisienne.
12 Entremets.
French truffles, au champagne. Braized oelery, a l'Espagnole.
Scolloped oysters in small shells. Brocoli, with. Bechamel sauco.
Aspic, a la Reine. Mayonaise of fillets of soles.
Bavarian cream of preservedrasberries. Pine-apple jelly.
Mosaic tartlets of apricots. Neapolitan cake, a la Chantilly.
Macedoine jelly. Charlotte a la Russe.
Dinner for 36 Persons. February.
Puree of partridges, a la Condfi. [4 Soups.] 2 Turtle, Spring soup.
Fried smelts. Soles, a la Pari- [4 Fishes.] Crimped turbot, lobster sauce,
sienne. fried fillets of whiting.
Roast Baron of lamb, a la Ma- [2 Removes.] Pheasants, a la Dauphine.
cedoine.
Croquettes, a la Reine, and oyster crdnstades.
Pate-chaud of snipes, a la Peri- [2 Hanks.] Chartreuse of tendons of real.
gueuz.
12 Entries:
2 Mutton Cutlets, a la Soubise. 2 Fillets of rabbits, a la D'Uxelles.
2 Scollops of partridges, a la Victoria. 2 Boudins of fowl, a la Sefton.
2 Lamb's-ears, a la Financiere. 2 Crdnstades of nouillcs, with puree.
of woodcocks.
Second Codrsr.
Black Game. [3 Roasts.] Teal, Ducklings.
Flemish gauffres, Fonda of [3 Removes.] Iced pudding, a la Kinnaird.
cheese.
Millefeuilles cake, a la Chan- [2 Flanks.] Ham of Savoy cake, garnished
tilly. 'with jelly.
16 Entremets.
2 CrAutes of mushrooms. 2 Asparagus, with butter sance.
2 Dames of salmon, with Montpel- 2 Lobster salads.
lier-butter. 2 Punch jellies.
2 Cherry cheeses with cream. 2 Vol-au-vents of apricots.
, 2 Darioles, with oandied orange-flowers.


520 BILLS OF FARE
Dinner for 6 Persons. March.
Brown puree of turnips soup.
\Fish.
Soles, & la Colbert.
Boiled fowl, with broooli. [2 Removes.'] Boast leg of lamb.
% Entries:
Mutton outlets, sautées, with a puree Vol-au-vent of godiveau, a la Fi-
of potatoes. nanciere.
Second Course.
Boast widgeon.
3 EntrtmetM:
Eggs brouillés, with asparagus-peas. Tapiooa pudding, oustard sauce.
German tourte of apples.
Dinner for 6 Persons. March.
Puree of vegetables, a la Croisay.
1 Fish.
Salt Fish, a la Bechamel.
Boast saddle of mutton. [2 Removes.'] Partridge pie, a l'Anglaise.
2 Entries:
Chickens, a la Lyonnaise. Blanquette of sweetbreads, garnished
with croquettes.
Second Cocrse
Boast larks.
3 Entremets:
Salsifis with white sauce. Bavarian cream of Noyeau.
Duchess loaves with rasberry jam.
Dinner for 6 Persons. March.
Soup a la Bonne-femme.
1 Fish.
Fillets of whitings, a la Proven9ale.
Boast fillet of beef, Poivrade [2 Removes.] Cushion of veal, a la Jardinicr*.
sauce.
2 Entries:
Partridges, a la Brezilienne. Quenelles of fowl, a I'essence.
Second Course.
Roast wild duck.
3 Entremits.
Brussels-sprouts sautes with butter. Orange jelly, a la Francaise.
Genoese cakes with almonds.


FOE MARCH. 521
Dinner for 6 Persons. March.
Potato soup, a la crême.
1 Fish.
^Fillets of salmon, a la ravigotte.
Chickens,'*, Mtalienne. [2 Removes.] Roast beef, horse-radish sauoe.
2 Entries:
Pigeons, a la Crapaudine, with Pi- Carbonnades of mutton, a la Jardi-
quante sauce. niere.
Second Codrsk.
Roast Plovers.
3 Entremets:
Macaroni au gratin. Lemon pudding.
Chocolate custards.
Dinner for 6 Persons. March.
Paysanne soup.
1 Fish.
Crimped skate fried, with capers' sauoe.
Braized neck of mutton, a [2 Removes.] Lark pudding, a la Chipolata.
l'lrlandaise.
2 Entries:
Timbale of raviolis, a la Romaine. Chiokens, a l'Allemande.
Second Course.
Roast Duckling.
3 Entremets:
Scolloped muscles. Cranberry tart.
Lemon and cinnamon cream.
Dinner for 6 Persons. March
Cream of rioe soup, a la Viotoria.
1 Fish.
Fried Eels, a la Tartare.
Lamb's-head, a la Gallimauffrfi. [2 Removes.] Fowl, a la Dauphine.
2 Entries:
Beefsteaks, a la Francaise. Braized duck, a la Nivernaise.
Second Cocrse.
Roast Pigeons.
3 Entremets:
Jerusalem artichokes., a l'Espagnole. Cherry bread, a la Gotha.
Puff-paste tartlets of rasberry-jam.


524 BILLS OF FARE
Dinner for 20 Persons. April.
Chiffonade spring soap. [2 Sou;*.] Bisque of crab, a, la Fitzhardinge
.
John-Dory, Dutch sauce. [2 Fishes.'} Salmon, a la Royale.
Kromeskys of fowl, a la Basse.
Braized rump of beef, a la Polo- [2 Removes.} Chickens, a la Chivry.
naise.
8 Entries:
Mutton cutlets braized, with a puree Vol-au-vent, a la Nesle.
of chestnuts. Fillets of fowls, a la Marechale.
Scollops of leverets, a la Perigueux. Lamb's-ears farcied, a la Dauphine.
Compote of pigeons, alaBourguignotte. Grenadins of real, with puree of
spinach.
Timbale of macaroni, a la Mazarin.
Second Codrsr.
Quails. [2 Rousts.] Ducklings.
Vol-au-vent of damsons with [2 Removes.] Semolina soufflee.
ioed oustard.
Nougat, a la Parisienne. [2 Flanks.] Brioche with oandied citron.
8 Entremets:
French beans, a la Maitre d'hdtel. Brocoli with Parmesan cheese.
Bastion of eels with Montpellier butter. Aspic of plovers' eggs.
Pine-apple oream. Strawberry jelly.
Parisian loaves. Qreen-currant tartlets.
Dinner for 20 Persons. April.
Spring soup. [2 Soups.] Bisque of quails a la Prince
Albert.
Mackerel, Fennel sauce. [2 Fishes.] Trout, a la Parisienne.
Rissolee, a la Milanaise.
Poulards, a la Printaniere. [2 Removes.'] Roast fillet of beef larded, Ma-
deira sauce.
8 Entries.
Fillets of chiokens, with a puree of Epigramme of Lamb, with aspara-
truffies. gus-peas.
Cutlets of sweetbreads, a la D'Uxelles. Boudius of fowl, a la Reine.
Noix of veal, a la St. Cloud. Fillets of rabbits larded, with a pu-
Timbale of nouilles, a la Chasseur. ree of endives.
Border of potato, garnished with scollops of leverets.
Second Course.
Guinea fowls. [2 Roust*.] Pigeons.
Ramequins with Gruyere. [2 Removes.] Ioed pudding, a la Princesst
Alice.
Cake, a la Victoria. [2 Flanks.] Large Meringue, a la Chant illy.
8 Entremets:
Perigord truffles (boiled in mirepoixj. Aspic of fillets ot fowl, a la Belle-vue.
Asparagus with white sauce. Pomegranate jelly.
Lobster salad with a border of plovers' Bavarian coffee cream.
eggs. Tourte of apricots, a l'AUemande.
Croquante of Genoese cake.


FOR MAY. 525
Dinner for 8 Persons. May.
z Bisque of Prawns.
Trout, Dutch sauce. [2 Fishes.] White bait.
Roast poulard, a l'ltalienne. [2 Removes.] Boiled leg of lamb and spinaoh.
Patties of ox-piths au jus.
2 Entries:
Pigeon cutlets, a la Dauphine. Scollops of fillets of beef, a la Claremont.
Second Course.
Plovers' oggs, plain. [2 Roasts.] Green-goose.
1 Remove.
Aprioot souffle.
4 Entr emits!
Green peas plain. Burnt cream, au caramel.
New potatoes, au gratin. Strawberry tartlets.
Dinner for 8 Persons. May.
Puree of green peas, a la Victoria.
Scollops of fillets of gurnets, [2 Fishes.'] Boiled mackerel, & la Maitre
Dutch sauce. d'hdtel.
Poulard and rice. [2 Removes.] Beefsteak pie.
Mazarine patties.
2 Entries!
Lambs' sweetbreads larded, with puree Blanquette of fowls, garnished with
of asparagus. cucumbers farcied.
Second Codbsb.
Russian salad. [2 Roasts.} Leveret.
1 Remove.
Brown-bread pudding, cherry sance.
4 Entremets:
French beans, a la Poulette. Marygolds of puff-paste.
Macaroni, a la Creme. Celestine charlotte of strawberries.


FOB MAY.
527
Dinner for 36 Persons. May.
Turtle soup (clear). .. „ . Turtle soup (full).
Soup, a la Sovigne. L ,soups, j pUree of fowls, a la Princesse.
Crimped salmon, lobster sauce. ,, ... , , Turbot, a la Vatel.
White bait. L* *""t$• J White bait.
Granada ham braized, garnished Fillet of beef larded, a la Napoli-
with a Macedoine. [4 Removes.] taint-.
CalPs-head, a la Tortue. Poulards, a la Oodard.
Kromeskys o» lobsters, to be handed round.
12 Entries:
2 Fillets of quails, a l'ancienne. 2 Quenelles of fowl, a l'essence.
2 Scollops of Fowls with cucumbers. 2 Pates-chauds of leverets, a la Pe-
2 Lamb cutlets bread-crumbed, gar- rigueux.
nished with puree of mushrooms. 2 Tiiubales of raviolis, a la Romaine.
Pigeons larded.
Second Course.
[3 Roasts.]
Peahen larded.
Spring ohickens.
Krapfen with apricot. [3 Removes."] Fondu of Parmesan.
Iced pudding, a la Chesterfield.
Savoy cake, a la Vanille. [2 Flanks.]
Sultana of spun sugar.
1G Entremets:
2 Groups of large Perigord truffles. 2 Aspics garnished with plovers' eggs.
2 Stewed peas, a la Francaise. 2 Red currant and raspberry-jellies.
2 Asparagus with white sauce. 2 Pine-apple cheeses, a la Chantilly.
2 Cherry tartlets. 2 Peaches au riz, a la Conde.


FOR JUNE. 529
Dinner for 6 Persons. June.
Greon-peas soup, a la Condé.
1 Fish.
Baked whitings, with fine-herbs.
Chicken pie, a l'Anglaise. [2 Removes.'] Breast of veal and stewed-peas.
2 Entries:
Mutton outlets, a la Milanaise. Rabbit curry, in a border of rice.
Second Course.
Roast pigeons.
3 Entremets:
Stewed-peas, & la Francaise. Bavarian strawberry cream.
Puff-paste royals.
Dinner for 6 Persons. June.
Clear rice soup.
1 Fish.
Fillets of mackerel, a la Maitre d'llutol.
Poulard, a l'lvoire. [2.Removes.] Braized neck of mutton, al*Al-
lemande.
2 Entries:
Minced beef, a la Polonaise. Tourte of godiveau, a la Financiere.
Second Course.
Roast Duckling.
Cauliflowers with white sauce. Duchess loaves with apricot-jam,
Timbale of ground rice.
Dinner for 6 Persons. June.
Bonne femme soup.
1 Fish.
Broiled trout, Dutoh sauce.
Roast leg of Welsh mutton. [2 Removes.] Noix of Veal, a la oreme.
2 Entries:
Mince of fowl, with poached eggs. Fillets of heef in tneir glaze, gar-
nished with stewed-peas.
Second Course.
Roast fowl.
3 Entremtts.
Asparagus with sauce. Apricot nougats.
Maraschino jelly with strawberries.
33


530 BILLS OF FARE
Dinner foe 8 Persons. June,
Macaroni soup, a la Royale.
lFish.
Soles with fine-herbs.
Pigeon pie, a l'Anglaise. [2 Removes.] Roast fillet of beef, a la Proveu-
cale.
Croquettes of sweetbreads.
2 Entries:
Lamb's-feet, a la Ponlette. Capilotade of fowl with mushrooms.
Second Codrsr.
Lobster, au gratin. [2 Roasts.] Green-goose.
1 Remove.
Peach fritters.
A Entremets:
Cherry tart. Green-peas plain.
Custards in glasses. Aspic, a la Heine.
Dinner for 8 Persons. June.
Soup, a la Colbert.
1 Fish.
Paupiettes of fillets of gurnets, a la Cardinal.
Braized ham, with spinach. [2 Removes.] Roast fillet of veal, a l'Anglaise.
Croustades a la Monglas.
2 Entries:
Fricassee of chickens, a la Bonr- Mutton cutlets, a la Maintenon.
guignonne.
Second Course.
Plovers' eggs plain. [2 Roasts.] Guinea fowls.
1 Remove.
Souffle of rice.
4 Entremets:
Stewed peas, a la Francaise. Vol'au'vent garnished with a Mace-
Braized lettuces, a l'Espagnole. doine of fruits.
Noyau cream.


FOR JUNE. 531
Dinner for 8 Persons. June.
Soup, a la Ferney.
1 Fish.
Spitchcockod eels, with piquante sauce.
Ox-piths fried in batter, with Tomata sauce.
Chickens, a l'Espagnole. [2 Removes.'] Boiled neck of mutton.
2 Entrees.
Lamb cutlets broad-crumbed, with Young rabbits sautes with fine-herbs,
slowed-poas.
Second Course.
Italian salad. [2 Boasts.] Quails.
1 Remove.
Fritters, & la Dauphine.'
4 Entremets i
French beans, a la creme. Poach jelly.
Crayfish, a la Foulette. Queen's cakes.
Dinner for 18 Persons. June.
Quenelles of rabbit in consomme. [2 Soups.] Bisque of lobsters, a la Stanley.
Crimped turbot, lobster sauce. [2 Fishes.] Mullets, a la Chesterfield.
White bait.
Chickens, a l'Allemande.* [2 Removes.] Calf s-head, a la Marigny.
6 Entries:
Crflustades of soft roes of mackerel, a Fillets of ducklings with green-peas-
la Ravigotto. Salmis of quails, a la Bordelaise.
Chartreuse, a la Parisienne. Veal cutlets larded, with a puree of
Epigramme of lambs' sweetbreads, a. endives.
la Macedoine.
Second Course.
Turkey-poult. [2 Roasts.] Leverots.
Ramequins in cases. [2 Removes.] Iced pudding, a la Prince of
Wales.
6 Entremets:
Asparagus with sauce. Ginger cream.
New potatoes, a la creme. Vol'au'veut of strawberries and
Cherry jelly garnished with cherries. cream.
Parisian nougats.


532
BILLS OF FARE
Dinner for 18 Persons. June.
Consommé with lettuces and peas. [2 Soups.] Macaroni, a la Medicis.
Salmon trout with parsley and [2 Fishes.] Sturgeon, a la Beaufort.
butter sauce.
Bouchees of whitings, a; la Pompadour.
Poulards, a la Belle-vue. [2 Removes.] Haunch of venison.
6 Entries:
Mazarine of fat livers, a la Toulouse. Mutton cutlets braized, a la Niver-
Chartreuse of vegetables, garnished naise.
with tendons of veal. Fillets of fowls, a la Valencay.
Lamb's-ears, a la Tqrtue.
Boudins of rabbit, a la Reine.
Green-goose.
Secosd Course.
[2 Rooms.]
Large meringue with iced cream. [2 Removes.]
Quails.
Compiegne cake.
8 Entremets:
French-beans sautes with butter. Pine-apple cheese, a la Chantilly.
Stewed-peas, a la Francaise. Fanclionettes with vanille.
Red-ourrant jelly garnished with Flan of cherries,
.peaches. Aspic of prawns.
Plovers' eggs.
Dinner for 12 Persons. July.
Vermicelli clear soup.
Fried flounders.
[2 Sou]>s.] Brown puree of turnips, a In
Conde.
[2 Fishes.] Char, a la Genoise.
Noukles, with Parmesan.
Fillet of beef, Chevreuil sauce. [2 Removes.] Chickens and tongue, a la Prin-
taniere.
4 Entries:
Cutlets of breasts of lamb, a la Ville- Quenelles of lobster, a la Vertpré.
roi, with French-beans. Patti-chaud of young rabbits with
Compote of pigeons with peas. fine-herbs.
Peahen larded.
Parmesan fritters.
Second Course.
[2 Roasts.]
[2 Removes.]
Ducklings.
Polish Baba.
4 Entremets:
¥oung broad-beans, a la Poulette. Peaches with rioe, a la Conda.
Aspic of prawns, a la Russe. Puff-paste platts.
-


FOR JULY.
535
Dinner for 18 Persons. July.
Consomme of fowl with que- [2 Soups.'] Puree of green-peas, a la Femey.
nelles.
Wator-souchot of fillets of soles. [2 Fishes.] Sturgeon, a la Cardinal.
Kromeskys of lobsters.
Poulards, a la Parisienne.
[2 Removes.] Haunch of venison.
6 Entries.
Mazarine of fillets of whitings, a la Patfichaudof leverets, a la Perigueux.
Veniticnne.
Lamb-cutlets, breadcrumbed, with
puree of artichokes.
Fillots of pigeons, a la de Lnynes,
with a Macedoine of vegetables.
Scollops of sweetbreads, a la Mare-
chale, with puree of mushrooms.
Fricassee of spring chickens, a la
urguignonne.
Green-goose.
Brioche with cheese (hot).
Second Cocrsr.
[2 Roasts.]
Quails.
[2 Removes.] Vol'au'vent of currants and
raspberries, with an iced
custard-oroam.
8 Entremets:
Toung broad-beans, a la Poulette. Bavarian cream of pistachios.
Cucumbers farcied, with Espagnole Panachee j elly.
sauce. Almond gauffres, filled with straw-
Italian salad in a border of aspic-jelly. berries and croam.
Darne of salmon, with Montpellicr Qerman tourte of apricots. v
butter.


536 BILLS OF FARE
Ball Supper for 300 Persons. Summer.
8 Grosse-pieces, on ornamental stands.
2 Raised piea' of fowls and ham with 2 Hams ornamented with aspic jelly.
truffles, garnished with jelly. 2 Boars'-heads, ornamented with as-
2 Oelantines of poulards, with aspio- pio-jelly.
jelly.
48 Cold entries, dished up on silver plates:
6 Groups of plovers' eggs, garnished 6 Lobster salads.
with aspio jelly. 6 Mayonaises of fowl.
6 Plates of cold roast fowls with do. 6 Mayonaises of fillets of salmon.
(cut n\<). 6 Entrees of lamb-cutlets, a la Bolle-
6 Plates of tongue, in slices, garnished vuo.
with aspic-jelly. 6 Entrees of chaud-froid fricassees
of chickens.
36 Cold roatt fowls, and 4 tongues, to be kept in reserve for the purpose of replenishing
those entries as they are eaten.
8 Urosse-pieccs of pastry, on stands:
2 Savoy oakes, ft la vanille. 2 Croquantes.
2 Nougats of almonds and pistachios. 1 Baba. 1 Victoria cake.
16 Entremets of small pastry,
Cherry tartlets, Mecca loaves.
Strawberry and apricot tartlets. Polish cakes.
Fenchonnettes, with orange flowers. Cheese-cakes.
Genoese cakes, with almonds. Queen's cakes.
Apricot nougats. Small meringues.
Florentines. Almond gauffres.
Madelines. Puff-paste mosaic tartlets.
Duchess loaves. Petits-choux, with pistachios.
36 Moulds of jellies ana creams.
6 Currant jellies, garnished with 6 Pine-apple jellies,
peaches. 6 Mac6doine jellies.
6 Cherry jellies. 6 Strawberry Charlottes.
6 Russian Charlottes.
3 Soups, to be served from the buffet.
Spring soup. Vermicelli clear soup.
Puree of fowls or cream of barley.
24 Hot roast fowls.
French beans, new potatoes.


FOR SUMMER. 537
Public Dinner poe 300 Persons. Summer.
Spring soup. [3 Soups. ] Puree of fowls, a la Reine.
Turtle soup (full and clear).*
24 Dishes of Fish.
6 Turbots, with lobster sauce. 6 Fillets of mackerel, a la Ravigotte.
6 Salmon, Dutch and parsley sauces. 6 Fried fillets of soles.
8 Haunches of venison. 48 Roast fowls (hot).
48 Hot Entries:
8 Of sweetbreads lardod, with puree of 8 Of lamb-outlets breadcrumbed,
artichokes. with Macedoine.
8 Of boefsteaks, a la Francaise. 8 Of cutlets of quails, a la Mare-
8 Of scollops of fowls with cucumbers. chale, with stewed peas.
8 Of chickens, a la Marengo.
48 Cold Entries:
8 Of lobster salads. 8 Of Mayonaises of chickens.
J& Of fillets of fowls, a la Belle-vue. 8 Of sliced galantine with jelly,
8 Of salads of fillets of soles and salmon. 8 Of aspics of plovers' eggs.
12 Grosse pieces, on ornamental stands:
3 Raised pies, garnished with aspic- 3 Groups of large perigord truffles.
jelly. 3 Hams garnished with aspio-jelly.
3 Grouns of large crayfish.
12 Grosse pieces of pastry, on stands:
3 Brioches, with dried cherries and 3 Cobourg oakes (in high moulds),
candied citron (hot). (hot).
3 Nougats, a la Parisienne.
Grosse meringues, a la Chantilly.
48 Entremets of small pastry, on ornamental stands:
8 Of Genoese cakes, with pistachios 8 Of currant and raspberry tartlets.
and apple-jelly. 8 of Profitrolles (half with coffee,
8 Of apricot putf-paste tartlets. half with chocolate).
8 Of Parisian loaves. 8 Of Darioles, a la vanille.
48 Moulds of jellies, and ere:
8 Peach jellies. 8 Macedoine jellies,
8 Cherry jellies. 8 Bavarian strawberry creams.
8 Italian creams and blanc-mangers. 8 Penachee jellies (with apricot
cream in the centre).
48 Entremets of dressed vegetables:
12 Of new potatoes, a la creme. 12 Of artichokes, a l'ltalienne.
12 Of stewed-peas, a la Francaise. 12 Of French-beans, a la Maitre
d'Hotel.
* Serve 12 tnreeom of tnrtlf, 6 of clear, and 6 of full-dressed turtle; 6 tureen* of spring soup,
and 6 of puree of fowl, it la Heine.


53S
BILLS OF FARE
Dinner fob 12 Persons. August.
Desclignac soap. [2 Sou/s.] Puree of carrots, a la Creoy.
Soles, a la Colbert. [2 Fishes.] Red mullets a l'ltalienne.
Anchovy patties, a la Mazarin.
Capon, a la Milanaise. [2 Removes.] Braized necks of mutton lar-
ded, a l'Allemande.
4 Entries:
Blanquette of lamb's-sweetbreads, a Salmis of grouse, a la Bordelaise.
la Paysanne. Tourte of whitings, a la Dauphine.
Mutton cutlets, a la Provencale.
Chickens.
Srcond Cocrsk.
[2 Roasts.]
Wheatears.
Fondu of Parmesan. [2 Removes.] Viennoise pudding.
4 Entremets:
Vegetable marrow, a la creme. Codling cheese, a la Chantilly.
Potatoes, a la Hollandaise. Genoese cakes with pistachios.
Dinner for 12 Persons. August.
Macaroni in consommé. [2 Soups.] Puree of spinach, a laBeaureau.
Water-souchet of perch.
[2 Fishes.] Slices of salmon broiled, with
capers sauce.
Patties, au jus.
Roast saddle of mutton. [2 Removes.] Grouse pifi, a l'Ecossaise.
4 Entries.
Fricassee of chickens, a la Financiere. Members of ducks, a la Nivernaise.
Epigramme of lamb, with a puree of Fillets of leverets larded, with Poi-
potatoes. vrade sauce.
Guinea fowls.
Omelette with apricot.
Second Course.
[2 Roasts.]
[2 Removes.]
Ruffs and Reeves.
Cherry bread.
4 E-Jtremlts:
French beans, a la Poulette. Flan of peaches.
Artichokes with white sauce Coffee cream.


FOR AUGUST.
539
Dinner for 12 Persons. August-.
Consomme of fowl with quenelles. [2 Soups.'] Hodge-Podge, a l'Ecossaise.
Fried whitings, Dutch sauce. [2 Fishes.'] Char, a la Parisienne.
Boast haunch of venison.
Chartreuse, a la Cardinal.
Fricandeau, a la Jardiniere.
Oyster patties.
[2 Removes.} Capon au gros-sel.
4 Entries:
Members of chickens, a laMarechale.
Mutton outlets with puree of turnips.
Peahen larded.
Custard fritters.
Second Course.
[2 Roasts.]
Grouse.
[2 Removes.] Apple pudding with apricot j am.
4 Entremets:
Vegetable marrow, a l'Espagnole.
Spinach with cream.
Blano-manger.
Florentines.
Dinner for 12 Persons. August.
Julienne soup. [2 Soups.] Oyster soup, a la Plessy.
Brill and Shrimp sauce. [2 Fishes.] Trout, al'Aurore.
Lobster patties.
Roast capon, a la Financiers. [2 Removes.] Necks of red deer, a la St. An-
drew.
4 Entrees:
Orouse, a la Richelieu. Ox-cheek braized, a la Jardiniere.
Quenelles of fowls, a la Toulouse. Timbale of raviolis, a la Romaine.
Dncklings.
Second Coorsk.
[2 Roasts.]
Wheatears.
Pancakes with apricot. [2 Removes.] Iced biscuits in cases.
Cucumbers, a la Poulette.
Artichokes, a la Provencals
4 Entremets:
Eirschenwasser jelly.
Meringues with oream and itraw-
berries.


542
BILLS OF FARE
Dinner for 16 Persons. September.
Vermicelli, & la Roy ale. [2 Soups.'] Ox-tail scmp.
Cod, a la Bechamel.
[2 Fishes.] Broiled haddocks, Dutoh sauce.
Fowls and tongue with cauli- [2 Removes.] Haunch of red deer, a la Kin-
flowers. naird.
6 Entries:
Fillets of grouse, Dreadcrumbed, a la Croustade, garnished with lamb's-
Maitre d'Hùtel. brains, with Matelotte sauce.
Mutton patties, a la Windsor. Tourte of scollops/ of lobsters, a la
Minced be«f, a la Polonaise. Cardinal.
Chickens sautés, a la Lyonnaise.
Black-game.
Sweet omelette.
Second Coursr.
[2 Roasts.]
Partridges.
[2 Removes.] Chestnut pudding.
Tomatas an gratin.
Fried artichokes.
Lemon-jelly, a la Russe.
6 Entremrts:
Bavarian chocolate cream.
D'Artois of apple marmalade.
Petits-choux, with almonds.
Dinner for 16 Persons. September.
Puree of endives, a la crSme. [2 Soups.] Giblet soup, a l'Irlandaise.
Eels, a la Tartare.
Veal and ham pie.
[2 Fishes.] Salmon, with lobster sauce.
[2 Removes.] Braized goose, a 1' Estouffade.
6 Entries.
Ox-piths in small cases, with fine-herbs. Partridges, a la Périgueux.
Cruustades, a la Milanaise. Quenelles of whitings, with crayfish
Vol'au'vent of lanib's-feet, a la Pou- sauce,
letto.
Blanquette of fowl with mushrooms.
Capon.
Puft"-paste ramequina.
Secord Course.
[2 Roasts.]
[2 Removes.]
Leveret.
Tapioca pudding.
6 Entremets:
Spinach au jus. Noyau-jelly.
Vegetable marrow, a la Bechamel. Burnt-almond cream.
Charlotte of apricots. Cheese-cakes.


Ol-i BILLS OF FARE
Dinner for 12 Persons. October
i
Consommé, with rioe. [2 Soups.] Brown puree of turnips.
Brill, with lobster sauce. [2 Fishes.] Cod's sounds, a la Provencale.
Braized ribs of beef, a la mode. [2 Removes.] Roast sucking pig, al'Anglaise.
• 4 Entries:
Scollops of young rabbits in eases, Salmis of partridges, with mush-
with lino-herbs. rooms.
Chickens, with Lasagnes, a l'ltalienne
Fricandeau, with puree of endives.
Second Coursr.
Poulard. [2 Roasts.] Snipes.
Croquettes of ohestnuts. [2 Removes.] Pine apple pudding.
4 Entremets
Brussels sprouts, dressed with butter. Puff-paste Royals.
Scolloped mussels, au gratin. Apple charlotte.
Dinner for 12 Persons. October.
Consomme with Lasagnes. [2 Soups.] Calves'-tails soup, a la Royale.
Fried smelts, anchovy sauce. [2 Fishes.] Haddocks, egg sauce.
Boiled leg of mutton, a l'An- [2 Removes.] Braized pheasants, with cabba-
glaise. ges.
4 Entries:
Kromeskys of oysters, a la Russe. Bondins of rabbit, a la D'Artois.
Pork cutlets, a la sauce Robert. Chickens sautes, a l'Algerienne.
Second Course.
Hare. [2 Roasts.] Partridges.
Spanish puffs. [2 Removes.] Apple pudding.
4 Entr emits:
Potatoes, a la Mattre d'Hôtel. Nougats of apricot.
Tomatas, with fine-herbs, au gratin. Coffee cream.


FOR OCTOBER.
545
Dinner for 12 Persons. October.
Brfinni.se soap. [2 Soups.] Hare soup, a la St. George.
Fillets of whitings, a la Royale. [2 Fishes.] Baked gurnets, with Piquante
sauce.
Capon,with rice. [2 Removes.] Roast haunch of mutton.
4 Entries.
Salmis of woodcocks, a la Minute. Fillets' of beef sautes in their glaze.
Polpettes of rabbit, a l'ltalienne. Mince and grill of fowl, a la Bechamel.
Second Course.
Larks. [2 Roast*.] Pheasants.
Coburg cake. [2 Removes.] Iced pudding, a la Duchess
of Kent.
4 Entremets:
Spinach, an jus. Apples, a la Portuguaise.
Eggs brouilles, with truffles. Russian lemon-jelly.
Dinner for 12 Persons. October.
Flemish soup. [2 Soups.] Puree of pheasant, a la Condi.
Slices of Cod, broiled, a la Mai- [2 Fishes.] Fillets of gurnets, a l'ltalienne.
tre d'Hdtel.
Chickens, a l'lvoire. [2 Removes.] Haunch of roebuck, a l'Alle-
mande.
4 Entries:
Teal cutlets, bread-crumbed, with pu- Partridges, a la Brfisiliehne.
ree of spinach. Quenelles of fowl, a la Marechale.
. Haricflt of mutton, a la Nivernaise.
Second CorjBss.
Black game. [2 Roasts.] Golden plovers.
Parmesan fritters. [2 Removes.] Ginger pudding.
4 Entremits:
Jerusalem artichokes, a la Bechamel. Punch jelly.
Portugal onions, a l'Espagnole. Genoese cakes, a la Chantillly.
34


546
BILLS OF FAKE
Dinner for J 8 Persons. November.
Julienne. [2 Soups.] Bisque of snipes, & la Bonne-
bouche.
Crimped skate fried, with capers' [2 Fishes.] Matelotte of carp and eels.
sauce.
Pheasants, a la Financiere. [2 Removes.] Braized rump of beef, a la Fla
mande.
6 Entrees:
Patfi-chaud of partridges, a laChasseur. Blanquette of fowl, with truffles.
Chartreuse, a la Parisienne.' Braized carbonnades of mutton, a la
Pork cutlets, a L'Aurore. Brfitonne.
Fillets of grouse, with fumet sauce.
Second Cocrsb.
Capon. [2 Roasts.] Teal.
Cheese fondn. [2 Removes.] Apple fritters.
6 Entremets:
Macaroni, a la Napolitaine. , Russian charlotte, a la vanille.
Turnips glaces, with sugar. Darioles, with ratafias.
Orange-jelly, a l'Anglaise. Bread-and-butter pastry.
Dinner for 18 Persons. November.
Consomme1 of pheasant, with [2 Soups.] Cream of pearl barley, a la Vic-
quenelles. toria.
Spitchcocked eels. [2 Fishes.] Crimped haddocks, Dutch sauce.
Roast haunch of mutton. [2 Removes.] Black game, a la Montagnarde.
6 Entries:
Patfi-chaud of ox-palates, ft l'ltalienne. Quenelles of fowl, a la D'Orsay.
Chartreuse of tendons of veal, gar- Mutton cutlets, a la Provencale.
nished with a Jardiniere. Scollops of fowls, with truffles.
Fritot of chickens, with Tomala sauce.
Second Course.
Wild ducks. [2 Roasts.] Partridges.
Erapfen. [2 Removes.] Coffee souffle.
• 6 Eruremtts:
Group of Perigord truffleB. Mirlitons, with apricot.
Brocoli, with Parmesan cheese. Lemon-jelly in quarters.
Pear with rice, a la Conde. Maraschino Bavarian cream.


FOR NOVEMBER.
547
Dinner for 18 Fersons. November.
Macaroni clear soup. [2 Soup}.] Purie of celery, a la creme.
Fillets of percli, fried, Dutch [2 Fithes.] Carp, a la Chambord.
sauce.
Poulards, a la Perigueux. [2 Remotes.'] Fillets of mutton, larded with
Poivrade sauce.
6 Entrees:
Croustades of rice filled with puree of Fillets of rabbits, a la D'Uxelles,
woodcocks. • garnished with Soubise puree.
Tourte of Godivoau, a la Financiere. Supreme of fowls, a l'ecarlate.
Scollops of pheasaut, a la Victoria. Muttoucutluts, withpunie of potatoes.
Larks.
Custard fritters.
Second Couasr.
[2 Roasts.]
[2 Removes.]
Grouse.
Apple souffle.
6 Entremets:
Salsifis, with white sauce. Calf's-feet jelly, with grapes.
Mushrooms, with fine-herbs, au gratin. • Timbale of ground rice.
Cuira9ao, Bavarian cream. Puff-paste walnuts.
Dinner for 18 Persons. November.
Scotch broth. [2 Soups.] Hare soup, a l'Anglaise.
Fried slices of cod, oyster sauce. [2 Fishes.] Baked pike, with Italian sauce
Roast fillet of beef, Poivrade [2 Removes.] Braized goose, a la Flamande.
sauce.
6 Entries:
Bondins of partridge, a la Perigueux. Scollops of mutton, with oyster sauce
Fork cutlets, broiled, with fouiata Widgeon, a l'Amuricaine.
sauce. Croustades of marrow, with fine
Curry of rabbits, al'Indienne. herbs.
Golden Plovers.
Ramequins.
Second Courss.
[2 Roasts.]
Pheasants.
[2 Removes.] Iced pudding, a la Parisienne.
6 Entremets.
Braized celery, a l'Espagnole. Pine-apple cheese, a la Chantilly.
Scolloped muscles. Mecca loaves.
Noyau jelly. Apples and rice, with apricot.


BILLS OF FARE
Dinner for 8 Persons. November.
Soup, a la Paysanne.
Turbot, lobster sauce. [2 Fishes."] Salmon outlets, a la Maintenon.
Roast leg of mutton. [2 Removes.] Lark pudding, a la Melton
Mowbray.
Rissoles, a la Milanaise.
2 Entries:
Figs' feet, a la Ste. Menfihould. Chicken sautes with fine-herbs.
Second Course.
Fried potatoes. [2 Roasts.] Pheasant.
Apricot souffle, to remove the roast.
4 Entremets:
Crdutes with truffles, & la Piemontaise. Pudding, a la Viennoise.
German salad. Almond cakes, a la crSme.
Dinner for 8 Persons. November.
Puree of rabbits, a la Chantilly.
Broiled herrings, mustard sauce. [2 Fishes. ] Scollops of cod, a la Eollandaise.
Capon, with nouilles. [2 Removes.] Braized neck of mutton larded,
a la Soubise.
Calf s brains, fried in batter.
2 Entries.
Kidneys bread-orumbed, a la Maitre Cutlets of partridges, a I'AlgSri-
d'Hfltel. enne.
Second Coubsb.
Macaroni, an gratin. [2Roasts.] Wild ducks.
Orange fritters, to remove the roast.
4 Entremets:
Celery, a la Villeroi. Pear cheese, i la creme.
Poached eggs, on anchovy toast. Love'swells, garnished with preserve.


FOR NOVEMBER. 549
Dinner for 8 Persons. November.
Pearl barley soup, a la Princesse.
Salmon, a la Tartare. [2 Fishes.] Paupiettes of fillets of soles, a
la Ravigotte.
Roast neck of venison. [2 Removes.] Calf's-head, a l'Anglaise.
Black paddings.
2 Entries:
Boadins of pheasant, a la Danphine Fricassee of chickens, a la Roinainu.-
with Soubise sauce.
Second Course.
Scolloped oysters. [2 Roasts.] Woodcocks.
Ioed rice pudding, a la Cintra, to remove the roast.
4 Entremets:
Eggs, a l'Aurore. Apple cheese, with custard.
Spinach, with cream. Harry the Eighth's shoe-strings.
Dinner for 8 Persons. November.
Mulligatawny soup.
Fillets of haddock, a la Royale. [2 Fishes.] Cod, a la oreme.
Boiled turkey, with oyster [2 Removes.] Roast sucking pig.
sauce.
Croquettes of oz-palates.
2 Entries:
CrepinettesofpartridgesalaD'Estaing. Fricandeau, with puree of tomatas.
Second Course.
Italian salad. [2 Roasts.] Bare.
Iced biscuits, in small oases.
4 Entremets:
Brussels sprouts sautes, a la Maitre Potatoes, a la Hollandaise.
d'llutel. Orange pudding.
Meringues, a la ereme.


550 BILLS OF FARE
Dinner for 8 Persons. November.
Cream of rice, a la Chasseur.
Fried Smelts. [2 Fishes.] Lampreys, a la Foley.
Goose, i la Dauphinoise. [2 Removes.'] FUlets of red deer, a la Royale.
Patties, au jus.
2 Entries:
Sheep's tongues, a l'ecarlate, \(itli Pigeons, a la Duchesse.
spinach.
Second Cooksr.
Pheasant. [2 Roasts.] Snipes.
Pear fritters, to remove the roast.
■ 4 Entremets:
Salsifis fried in batter. Rice cake, with almonds. .
Eggs, a la tripe. Vol-au-vent of apricots.
Dinner for 8 Persons. November.
Puree of lentilles, a la Sonbise.
Fried soles. [2 Fishes.] Tench, a la Hollandaise.
Ham, with spinach. [2 Removes.] Roast turkey, a l'Anglaise.
Bouchees of larks, a la Pompadour.
2 Entries:
Fillets of partridges, a la Plessy. Scollops of mutton sautées, with olives.
Second Coursi.
Russian salad. ['1 Roasts.] Widgeon.
Vol-au-vent of damsons, with iced cream, to remove the roast.
4 Entremets:
Eggs, a la Dauphine. Pomegranate jelly.
Endives, with oream. Macaroni cake.


FOR DECEMBER
551
Dinner foe 14 Persons. December.
Julienne. [2 Soups.} Puree of rabbits, a la Maitre
d'H6tel.
Crimped slices of pike, Dutch [2 Fishes.] Broiled turbot, a la Provencale.
sauce.
Turkey, with celery sauoe. [3 Removes.] Haunch of roebuck, a la Marie
Stuart.
Oyster patties; a la Sefton
Mutton cutlets, a la Russe.
Partridges, a la Perigueux.
4 Entries:
Fricassee of chickens,-a la Danphine.
Koix of Veal, a la Macedoine.
Pheasants.
Ratifia souffle.
Seakale, with white sauce.
Group of large truffles.
Orange jelly, a la Francalse.
Srcokd Course.
[2 Roasts.]
[2 Removes.]
Snipes.
Chestnut pudding.
6 Entremets:
Vanilla Bavarian cream.
Millefenilles cake, a la Chantilly.
Apricots, a la Conde ("preserved).
Dinner for 14 Persons. December.
Consommé of game, with lasag- [2 Soups.] Puree of lentils, & la Brunoise.
nes.
John Dory, with lobster sauce. [2 Fishes.] Whitings, with fine-herbs.
Ham, with Brussels sprouts. [2 Removes.] Roast turkey, & la Chipolata.
White Puddings, a la Royale.
4 Entries.
Veal cutlets, a la Zingara. Fillets of grouse, a la Dauphine,
Timbale of raviolis, a la Napolitaine. with Piquante sauoe.
Civet of hare, with mushrooms.
Wild duoks.
Iced pudding, a la Einnaird.
Second Course.
[2 Roasts.]
[2 Removes.]
Partridges.
Minoe pies.
6 Entremets:
Jerusalem artichokes, a l'Espagnole. Lemon jelly, a la Franchise.
Croquettes of potatoes. Cherry tartlets.
Pistachio cream. Tourte of Frangipane.


BILLS OF FARE.
555
Piner de 24 Couverts. Mai.
3 Potages:
Le Printanier aux pointes. La Bisque de Prawns.
A la Tortue.
Le Saumon a la Régence.
3 Poissons:
Le Turbot a la sauce homard.
Les White Bait frits.
4 Assiettes de Hors-d' Œuvres:
2 de rissoles à la Monglas. 2 de petites croustades de laitances.
2 Relevis:
La Tête de Veau à la Financiere. Le Filet de Bœuf piqué,
garni de laitues farcies.
2 Flancs:
Les Langues à la Macédoine. Les petits poulets à la Vertpre.
8 Entries:
La Bordure de riz à la Reine. . Le Pâté Chaud de Cailles.
La Timbale à la Milanaise. La Chartreuse à la Parisienne.
Les Filets de pigeons à la Duchesse. La Blanquette aux Concombres.
Les Ris de Veau a la Toulouse. Les Cotelettes d'agneau aux asperges.
Second Service.
2 R6U:
Les Poulardes.
Le Savarin.
2 Relevis:
Les Canetons.
La Spongada di Roma.
2 Flancs:
Le Bastion d'auguilles sur Socle. La Galantine sur Socle.
16 Entremets:
Les Hariclts verts au beurre.
Les Asperges à la sauce.
La Grosse meringue à la Chantilly.
Le Croqu'en'bouehe d'oranges.
1 e Bavaroix de Groseilles vertes.
La Gelee de Champagne rosé.
L'Aspic d'Œufs de pluviers.
Les Asperges a la sauce.
Les Haricots verts au beurre.
La Croquante de patiences.
Le Chateaubriant.
La Gelee de fraises.
Le Bavaroix en Surprise.
L'Aspic d'Œufs de pluviers.


556 " BILLS OF FARK.
Concert Supper. June.
[2 Soups.]
La creme d'orge. Le consomme do volatile
24 Entries:
6 of cold roast fowls, with aspic jelly. 3 lobster salads.
6 of ham and tongue, with aspic jelly. 3 chicken salads.
3 aspics of plovers' eggs,
12 Dishes of Pastry:
2 of strawberry tartlets. * 2 of D'Artois cakes.
2 of Genoese cakes with almonds. 2 of Duchess loaves.
2 of Meringues, a la crime. 2 of Chocolate profltrolles.
12 Jellies and Creams:
2 Macfdoines of fruits. 2 Russian Charlottes.
2 Celestina Charlottes. 2 pine-apple jellies.
2 cherry jellies. 2 Italian creams.


BILLS OF FARE. 557
Diner de 24 Couverts. Juin.
3 Potages:
A l'Impératrice. A la puree de poil verts.
A l'Esturgeon a la Chinoise.
3 Poissons:
Le Turbot a la Vatel. Lus Truites a la Beaufort.
Lo Water-Souchot de Limandes.
4 Hors-d' Œuvres:
2 de Niochi au Parmesan. 2 de White Bait frits.
2 Relevis:
Le Jambon à la Parisienne. Les Poulardes à la Chivry.
2 Flancs:
La petite piece de Bœuf à la d'Orléans. La Selle d'agneau à la Royale.
8 Entries:
Les Boudins de homard Cardinal. La Chartreuse de Cailles.
Les Ris d'agneau à la Toulouse. Le Vol-au-vent à la Nêsle.
Les Filets de Canetons aux petits pois. Le Supreme de volaille asperges.
Les Noisettes de Veau a la de Luynes. Les Côtelettes de mouton à la Dreux
Second Service.
2 Rôts:
L'Oisillon. Les Levrauts.
2 Flancs:
La Spongada Napolitana. Le Jambon en surprise.
16 Entremets:
Les Asperges à la sauce. Les Asperges à la sauce.
Les petits pois à l'Anglaise. Les petits pois à la Francaise.
L'Aspic de homard sur soole. L'Aspic à la Belle-vue sur socle.
Des Œufs de pluviers sur socle. Le Buisson de prawns sur socle.
La Gelee à la Montmorency. La Gelee Macédoine.
La Charlotte d'ananas. Le Bavaroix au Chocolat.
Le Croqu'en-bouche a la Reine. Le Gateau de Millefeuilles.
Le Melon en Nougat. Le Biscuit a la Florentine.


558 BILLS OF FARE.
Her Majesty's Dinner. 2blh January.
(Under the control of C. Francatelli.)
Potages:
Ala Tete de Venn en Tortue.
Lo Quenelles de Volatile au Consommé.
Poissons:
Le Sauraon, a la sauce homard.
Les Soles frites, sauce Hollandaise.
ReleveS: \
Le Filet de Bocuf, pique braisfi aux pommes de terre.
Le CUapou & la Uodard.
Entries:
Le Bord de pommes de terre, garni de Palais de Bceuf
La Chartreuse de Perdrix aux Choux.
Les Cntelettos d'Agneau panees.
La Blanquette de Volaille a l'ecarlate.
Les Laperaux, sautes aux fines herbes.
Les Petits Pates aux huitres.
Rots:
Les Poulets. Les Faisans.
Relevis:
Le pudding & l'Orange. ', Les Omelettes Souffleea.
Entremets:
Les pommes de terre i la Strasbourgeoise.
Les Epinards au jus.
La Gelée de Marasquin.
Le Petites Talmouses-
Les Fouillantines lie Pommes.
La Creme aux Amandes Pralinees.
Buffet.
Roast Beef and Mutton. Boiled Ronnd of Beef.


BILLS OF FARE.
5u0
Her Majesty's Dinner. -30/A. June.
( Under the control of C. Francatelli.)
4 Potages:
Printannier.
2 à la Tortue.
A la Rome.
4 Poissons:
Les Truites à la sauce Genevoise. Le Turbot, a la sauce homard.
Les Filets de merlans frits. Les white-bait frits.
4 Hors d'oeuvres:
Les Petits pâtés de homards.
4 Relevis:
Les Poulardes truffees à la sauce Périgueux.
Le Jambon glacé garni de fives de marais.
La Selle d'agneau farcie à la Royale.
Le Filet de Bœuf piqué à la Napolitaine.
16 Entries:
2 Les Nageoires de Tortue sauce au vin de Madere.
2 Les Filets de poulets à l'ecarlate aux concombres.
2 Les Cotelettes de mouton braisees à la puree d'artichanis.
2 Les Aiguillettes de canetons aux pois verts.
2 Les Riz de veaux piqués glacés à la Toulouse.
2 Les Cûtelottes de pigeons panees à l'Allemande.
2 Les Chartreuse de tendons d'agneau à l'essence.
2 Les Timbales de macaroni à la Mazarine.
Side Board:
Haunch of Venison.
Roast Beef. Roast Mutton.
Vegetables.
I de Cailles.
Second Service.
G Rôts:
2 Levrauts.
2 Le? puddings a la Nesselrode.
2 Les puddings de Cabinet.
6 Relevis:
2 Flancs:
Le Pavillon Mauresque.
Le Nougat aux amandes.
La Sultane Parisienne.
2 de Poulets.
2 Les soufflés a la fecule de
pommes de terre.
La Tonte Militaire.
Contre-Flancs:
Le Biscuit de Savoie a la vanillo.
Le Croque-en-bouche historié.
16 Entremets:
Les truffes au vin de Champagne.
Les artichauts à la Lyonnaise.
Le Buisson de prawns sur socle.
L'ancuilles en volute au beurre de
Montpellier.
La gelee de groseilles garnie de
pêr.hes.
Les tartelettes de framboises.
Les Génoises aux fruits transpar-
ents.
Les petits pois à la Francaise.
Les haricots verts .1 la poulette.
L'aspic de blanos de volaille à la
Belle-vue.
La salade de légumes à l'Italienne.
La Macédoine de fruits.
Le Iiavaroix de chocolat panaché.
La crime aux amandes pràlinees.
Les petits pains à la Parisienne.
Les gâteaux de Péthiviers.


5 GO BILLS OF FARE.
Her Majesty's Dinner. 15th August,
(Under the control of C. Francatclli.)
Potaget:
A la crante gratinee à laSévicné. A la puree de Gelinottes.
A la Crime de Riz garni de quenelles an beurre d'Ecrivisses
Poissons:
Le Brochet garni d'une Matelotte d'Anguilles. Lss Filets de Marians frits.
Les Truites sauce à la Pluche.
Relevis:
Les Poulardes, au Macaroni. Le Gigot de Mouton de sept heures.
L« Jambon aux Petits Pois. Les Queux de Bœufs à la Jardiniere.
Entries:
Les Côtelettes d'Agneau sautees aux Concombres,
Les Filets de Lapereaux panés a l'Allemande.
Les Cervelles de Veau marinees frites sauce Tomates.
Les Escalopes de Gelinottes aux Truffes.
Les Ris de Veau aux Petits Pois.
Les Fricassee de Poulets dans un bord de Riz.
Rôts: j
Les Canetons. Les Dindonneaux.
Relevis
Le Pudding de Sagon sauce au Fruit. Le Soufflé au Citron.
Les Beignets de Piches.
Flancs:
Le. Schapska Polonais. Le Melon en Nougat.
Entremets:
Le Bastion d'Anguilles au beurre de Montpellier.
Le Buisson de Truffes au Vin de Champagne.
Les Concombres à la poulette.
Les Haricots Verts sautés au beurre.
La Gelee de Malaga.
La Macédoine de Fruit.
Les Tartelettes de Prunes de Reine Claude.
Les Petits gâteaux feuilletés à l'Abricot.
Le Pain de Gibier à la gelee.
La Salade à la Russe.
Les Pommes de Terre à la Maître d'Hotel.
La Macédoine de Légumes.
Le Bavaroix aux Framboises.
La Crime au Café mocha.
Les Pains do la Mecque à la Chantilly.
Les Dauphines à la fleur d'Orange.
Side Board.
Roast Beef. Roast Mutton. Roast Venison. Riz au Consomme.
Emincé de Poulet aux Œufs poches. Haricots Verts. Currant Tari.


BILLS OF FARE. 561
Her Majesty's Dinner. l&h August.
( Under the control of C. Francatelli.)
Potages
A la Crossy. A la Tortue. A la Royale.
Poissons:
lie St. Pierre à la sauce Homard. Les Filets de Soles à la ravigotte.
Les Gougeons frits sauce Hollandaise. Le Saumon sauco aux Câpres.
Relevis:
Le Piece de Bœuf à la Flamande. Les Poulardes et Langue aux
La Pàté-chaud de Pigeons à l'Anglaise. Chouxfleurs.
La Noix de Veau eu Bedeau.
Entries:
Les Cotelettes de Mouton à la puree d'Artichauts. ..
Les Boudins de Laperaux à la Richelieu.
Les Pieds d'Agneau en Canelons farcis à l'Italienno
Les Filets de Poulardes à la Régence.
Les Tendons de Veau glacés à la Macédoine.
Les Petites Timbales de Nouilles à la Puree do Gelinottes.
T
Rôts:
Les Combattants. Les Chapons. L'Oie.
Relevis:
Le Pudding de Riz. Le Baba au Rhum. Les Beignets au Parmesan.
Flancs:
La Cascade ornee de sucre filé. La Chaumière rustique.
Entremets:
La Darne d'Esturgeon au beurre de Montpellier.
Le Buisson d'Ecrivisses.
Les Petits Pois à la Francaise.
Les Haricots Verts à la Maître d'hotil.
Le Gélee au Vin de Champagne.
La Crime au Caramel.
Les Petits Gateaux de Crime à l'Anglaise.
La Tourte de Piches.
L'Aspio de Volaille à la Belle-vue.
Les Fonds d'Artichauts à la Provencale.
Les Concombres farcis à l'Essence.
Les Choux-fleurs, à la sauce.
Le Bavaroix de Fraises.
La Gelee de Piches.
Les Tartelettes de Cerises.
Le Gateau de Péthiviers.
Side Board:
Roast Beef. Roast Mntton. Hashed Venison.
Riz an Consommé.
Plum and Yorkshire Puddings.
35


5(54
BILLS OF FARE.
Her Majesty's Dinner. 17 lh September.
( Under the control of C. Francateili. )
Potages:
A la Paree de Volaille.
A la Xavier.
Poissons:
Les Tranches de Cabillaud aux huîtres. Les Eperlans frits sauce Holland-
aise.
Relevis:
Les noix de Veau à la Jardiniere. Le Jambon glacé aux Epinards.
Entries:
Le Haricot de Venaison.
Les Perdreaux braisés à la soubise.
Les Boudins de Volaille à la Sefton.
Les Petits Filets de Bœuf dans leur glace.
Les Tendons de Veau en kari.
La Poularde pocllee sauce Supreme.
Les Aiguillettes de Poulets à la chicoree.
Les Filets de Soles en Kpigramme.
Les Gelinottes.
Rôts:
Le Lièvre.
Les Beignets de Crème frite.
Rtlevis:
Les Dindonneaux.
La Charlotte de Pommes.
Entremets:
La G-élee d'Ananas.
Le Pain de POches à la Chantilly.
Les Oateaux a la Religieuse.
Les Madelines au Cédrat.
Les Pommes de Terre à la crème.
Les Choux-fleurs à la sauce.
Les Œufs a l'Aurore.
Les Huitres frites.
Les Coupes garnies de Partisserie.
Boast Beef.
Side-Board:
Roast Venison.
Marrow on Toast.
Riz au Consommé.
Roast Mutton.


BILLS OF FARE. 565
Her Majesty's Dinner. 18th September.
(Under the control of C. Francatelli.)
Potage»:
A la Cressy aux Croutons. A la Royale.
Poissons:
Les Eglefins sauce aux Œufs. Les Harengs sauce moutarde.
Relevis:
Le Filet de Bœuf braisé aux laitues. Les Petits Poulets en Galantine.
Entries:
Les Cotelettes do Poro frais sauce Tomates.
Les Boudins de Merlans à la Bechamel.
Los Croquettes de Volaille à l'Allemande.
Les Palais de Bœuf au gratin.
La Fricassee de Poulets à la Villeroy.
Le Sauté de Perdreaux à la Bourguignotte.
Les Cervelles de Veau au beurre noir.
Les Croustades de Mouton aux fines herbes.
Rôts.
Les Perdreaux. Les Poulardes.
Relevis:
Les Croquettes de Riz sauce au fruit. Le Soufflé au Citron.
Entremets:
Les Concombres à l'Espagnole.
Les Epinards au jus.
Les Œufs brouillés aux Truffes.
La Salade à la Russe.
Le Pudding à la D'Orléans.
La Gelee de Fruits.
Le Flan de Poires.
Les Meringues à la Chantilly.
Les Cassolettes garnies de Patisserie.
Side Board:
Roast Beef. Roast Venison.
Roast Mutton.
Riz au Consommé.


566 BILLS OF FARE.
* . Her Majesty's Dinner. 19th September.
( Under the control of C. Francalelli.)
Potage»
A la Puree de Perdreaux. Au Vermicelli clair.
Poissons:
Lea Filets de Brochets panés à l'Allemande. Le Turbot sauce Homard.
Relevis.
Les Filets de Mouton, piqués a la Jardiniere. La Tête de Veau en Tortue.
Entries:
Les Cotelettes d'agneau à la chicoree.
Les Poulets à l'Allemande.
La Supreme de Volaille aux Concombres.
Le Filet de Bœuf au Madere.
Les Gelinottes braisies aux Choux.
Les Boudins de Volaille à la Heine.
Le Vol-au-vent à la Nêsle.
Les Filets de Perdreaux à la Marina
Rôti:
Le Chapon. Les Gelinottes.
Relevis
Le Pudding de Farine de Riz. Les Pommes Meringuées.
Flancs:
Les Pièces montees.
Entremets:
La Salade de Homards.
Les Truffes a la Serviette.
Les Haricots Verts a la poulette.
Les Choux-fleurs au Parmesan.
La Gelee de Marasquin.
La Timballe de Raisins garnie d'un Bavaroix.
Le Gâteau de Crime à la moelle.
La Charlotte de Pêches à l'Abricot.
Side Board:
Roast Beef. Boiled Round of Beef. Roast Mutton.
Hashed Venison. Riz au Consommé.


5G8 BILLS OF FARE.
Her Majesty's Dinner. 2ith October.
( Under the control of C. Francatelli.)
. 1 .. . . i' ;. :Pptages:,
A la Puree de Pois aux Croutons. Au Macaroni clair.
.. Poistons:
Le Turbot a la aauoo Homard. Les Eperlans frits sanco Hollandaise.
Itelevi':
Lo Filet do Bœuf, piqne sanoe Poivrado. Les Faisans, a la Financiered
Entries:
Les Ris de Veau piques, a la sauce Tomates. Les Epaules de Lierres, en civet.
La Fricassee do Poulets, a la Villeroy. Les Filets de Soles, aux Huitres.
Les Carbonnades de Mouton, alaMacedoine. Les petits Poulets, aux Riz.
liôts:
Les Manriettes. Les Dindonneaux.
Relevft:
Le Souffle, a la fucule. Les Gauffres, a la Flamande.
Entremets:
Les Artichauts, a la Barigoule. Le Blanc-manger.
Les Salsifls, a l'Espagnole. Les Gâteaux de Pommes.
La Gelée d'Ananas garnie. Les Darioles, a la Fleur d'Orange.
Side Board;
Roast Beef. Roast Mutton.
Hashed Venison.
Riz au Consomme.


570 BILLS OF FARE.
Her Majesty's Dinner. October 26th.
(Under the control of C. Francatetli.)
Potages:
De Queues de Bœuf aux racines. A la bonne femme.
Poissons:
Le Turbot, à la sauce Homard. Les Filets de Brochets à la Dauphine.
Relevis:
La Piece de Bœuf braisee, à la Flamande. La Dinde rôtie aux saucisses.
Entries:
Les Escalopes de Mouton aux fines-herbes.
La Blanquette de Volaille, àl'Ecarlate.
Les Crepinettes de Faisans, a l'Essence.
Le Fricandeau glacé, à la chicoree.
Les petits vols'au'vent, à la Bechamel.
Les ailerons de poulardes, a la Macédoine.
Rôts:
Les Faisans. Les Gelinottes.
Relevis:
Lés tartelettes soufflees, & la d'Artois. Le Baba au raisin.
Entremets:
Les choux de Bruxelles au beurre.
Les salsifis en Magnonnaise.
La gelee de citron.
Le bavaroix de Marasquin.
Le pudding de cabinet.
Le nougats de pommes.
Side Board:
loast Beef. Roast Mutton.
Hashed Venison.
Riz au Consommé


INDEX.
',* The number refers to the Article, unless otherwise expressed.
Albert sauce, 46,
Allemande sauce, 7.
Almond cakes, 1297.
„ gauffres, 1284.
,, paste, 1258.
,, ,, another method, 1259.
American yams, 4 la Francaise, 1187.
Anchovies, essence of, 176.
Anchovy sandwiches, 1213.
,, sauce, 72.
Apple, Charlotte, 1447.
,, ,, another way, 1448.
„ „ a la Marialva, 1448.
„ fritters, 1332.
„ pudding, 1402.
,, tart with quince, 1329.
„ tartlets, I322.
„ ,, another method, 1323.
Apples and rice, ornamented, 1351
,, ,,, plain, 1352.
,, a, la Portuguese, 1354.
„ "another method, 1355.
,, in the form of a porcupine, 1354.
„ Parisian turnover of, 1305.
Apricot Bavarian cream, 1433.
„ Charlotte, 1452.
„ cheese, a la Chantilly, 1448.
„ nouznts, 1310.
„ souffle, l:S7H.
Apricots, German tourte of, 1304.
Aromatic sauce, X4.
„ spices for seasoning, 1250.
Artichoke-bottoms, garnish of, 153.
Artichokes, puree of, 117.
,, with butter sauce, 1165.
,, a la Barigoule, 1166.
,, a I'ltaliunne, 168.
„ Jerusalem, with white sauce,
1183.
„ „ al'ltalifcnne, 1184.
,, a la Lyonnaise, 1167.
„ ,, pur<je of, 126.
Asparagus-heads, garnish of, 147.
„ peas, a la crerae, 1170.
,, ,, garnish of, 148.
,, puree of, 118.
„ -. with white sauce, 1169.
Aspic of fowl, it la Reine, 1229.
Aspic-jelly, essence of, 172.
Aspic-jelly, or savory jelly, 1218.
Atelet sauce, 36.
Aurora sauce, 41.
Baba, or Polish-cake, 1270.
Badminton sandwich, 1241a.
Bichamel sauce, 5.
,, cream sauce, 6.
Beef, braized roll of, & l'Allemnnde, 542.
„ a la Claremont,
545.
,, a la Dauphinoise,
549.
„ a la Flamande, 539.
,, a la Milanaise, 547.
„ alaU'Orlcans, 546.
,, a la Polonaise, 541.
,, a, la Kiclielieu, 548.'
„ a la Koyale, 543.
„ a la Windsor, 544.
„ garnished, 550.
braized rump of, 551.
„ a l'Allemande, 556.
,, a la Printaniere, 540.
boiled brisket of, u l'Anglaise, 564.
,, al'Ecarlate, 565.
stewed brisket of, a la Flamande
566.
edgebone of, ii l'Anglaise, 567.
fillet of, a la Jardiniere, 554.
,, a la Macedoine, 553.
,, it la Milanaise, 558.
,, a la Napolitaine, 552.
,, dressed roebuck fashion,
555.
,, with Madeira sauce, 557.
braized fillet of, a la Nivernaise,
5(i0.
„ a la Royale, 561.
fillets of, dressed plain, 563.
fillets or scollops of, in their own
glaze, r08.
,, With oysters
or muscles,
808.
,, with olives,
truffles, or
gherkins,
808.
(571)


INDEX.
575
Cream, Pistachio-kernels, 143*.
„ Russian Charlotte, 1440.
„ Strawberry, Bavarian, 1432.
„ a la Chateaubriant, 14416.
„ a la Romaine, 1441a.
Cream sauce, for roast necks of veal, 83.
,, for salt fish, 92.
Croquante of oranges, 1358.
„ of fresh walnuts, 1359.
„ of ratafias, a la Chantilly,
13G0.
Croquettes of fowl and mushrooms, 1020.
of veal, 896.
Croustade of hread, garnished with
calves'-talls, a la Poulette,
794.
„ garnishodwithlambs'-brains
795.
„ with scollops of fat livers, a
l'Epicurienne, 796.
„ with quails, a la Bourguig-
notte, 797.
„ cases, for patties, 1265.
Cucumbers, purtjeof, 124.
„ scollops of, for garnishing,
138.
,, garnish of, farcis, 139.
„ a la Poulette, 1181.
„ a l'Espngnole, 1182.
Cupid, or love's wells, 1315.
Curry sauce (plain), 87.
,, of chickens, a l'lndienne, 983.
Cygnets, 202.
„ a la Norwich, 202a.
Dampfnudeln, or German dumplings,
1390.
Darioles, 1306.
Darne of Salmon, with Montpelier but-
ter, 1223.
D'Artois, of apricot jam, 1309.
Duchess-loaves, 1292.
Ducks, for removes, 703.
,, a la Mucedoine, 703.
,, braized, with turnips, 704.
,, „ with stewed peas, 705.
,, ,, a la Provencale, 706.
„ „ a la Jardiniere, 703.
„ „ a la Nivernaise, 706.
,, „ with olives, 706.
„ ,, with sauerkraut, 706.
,, ,, for entries, 1035.
Ducklings, a la Rouennaise, 1035.
„ stewed with olives, 1036.
„ with stewed peas, 1037.
„ filletsof, a la Big»rrade,1038.
,, " Macidoine,1039
,, with truffles and mushrooms,
1040.
Dutch sauce, 42.
,, plain, 79.
D'Uxelles sauce, 16.
Eels, spitchcocked, 501.
Eels, plain broiled, 502.
„ stewed, a l'Anglaise, 503.
,, matelotte of, a la Bordelaise, 504.
,, ,, a la Gdnoise, 506.
„ ,, a la Parisienne, 505.
,, a la Dauphinose, 507.
„ a l'lndienne, 511.
„ a la Poulette, 510.
„ a la Tartare, 509.
„ a la Venitienne, 508.
Eggs, a la tripe, 1193 ,
„ au gratin, 1194.
,, brouillis, with truffles, 1195.
„ poached, with auchovy toast,
1200.
>i ,i with ham, 1201.
„ al'Aurore, 1203.
„ a la Dauphine, 1202.
„ a la Suisse, 1205.
„ with nutbrown butter, 1204.
Egg sauce, 84.
„ another method, 85.
Endive, purine of, for fricandeaux, &c,
114.
Endive, a la creme, 1157.
Entrdes offish, 1112.
Entrie, of boudins of lobster, a la Car-
dinal, 1112.
„ of quenelles of lobster, a la Vert-
pri, 1118.
„ of boudins of whitings, a la Su-
preme, 1114.
„ of quenelles of whitings, a la
Princesse, 1115.
,, of boudins of salmon, a l'ltal-
ienne, 1116.
„ of quenelles of salmon, a la Ea-
vigotte, 1117.
,, of blanquette of sturgeon, 1118,
,, of scollops of sturgeon, with
fine-herbs, 1119.
„ of cutlets of sturgeon, alaBour-
guinotte, 1120.
„ of dolphins of whitings, a la Pa-
risienne, 1133.
,, of fillets of salmon, a l'Aurore,
1121.
i> n a la Maintenon,
1123.
n „ a la Parisienne,
1122.
„ „ of turbot, 1124.
„ ,, of gurnet, 1125.
„ „ of soles, a la Diep-
poise, 1126.
>, „. a la Horly, 1130
it „ a la Maitre d'ho-
te I. 1127.
ti ,, a la Provencale,
1129.
„ of fillets of salmon, a la Royale,
1131.
„ ,, a la Veuitienne
1128.


576
INDEX.
Entree, of pnupiMtos of soles, si la Car-
dinal, 1132.
„ of fillets of whitings, 343.
,, ,, of trout, a la Choval-
iere, 1134.
„ ,, of mackerel, 1137.
„ ,, of perch, 343. •
Epigrammc of fillets of trout, 1135.
Espagnole, or brown sauce, 3.
Essence of anchovies, for broiled steaks,
176.
„ aspic-jelly, 172.
„ fine-herbs, for broiled meats,
'&o., 170.
,, game, for broiled partridges,
&c, 174.
„ garlic, for broiled fowls, &c,
175.
,, mushrooms, 169.
,, onions, for broiled pork, 179.
„ orange-zest, for wild fowl,
171.
„ sage and onions, for goese,
178.
„ shalnts, 167.
„ truffles, 168.
,, woodcocks, 173.
Extract of hare or rabbit, 220.
„ larks or quails, 219.
Fanchonnettes, 1299.
Farce, for preserving game in, 249.
,, of fat-livers, for gratins, 250.
Fennel sauce, 75.
Filbert tartlets, 1328a.
Fillets of fowls, for entries, 989.
u l'Ecarlate, 989.
„ Supreme of, il la Tou-
louse, 990.
„ „ with truffles,
991.
„ „ a la Parisi-
enne, 992.
,, with cucumbers, a la
lielle-vue, 993.
,, a la Financifcre, 999.
„ a l'lndienne, 995.
„ a la Marechale, 996
,, a la Perigord, 994.
„ a la Royale, 998.
„ a la D'Uxelles, 1000.
,, a la Valencay, 997.
Finger, or Naples biscuits, 1276.
Financiere sauce, 8.
Fine-herbs sauce, 14.
Flan of peaches, 1356.
Flemish gnuffres. 1282.
,, sauce, 89.
Florentines, 1814.
Flounders, fillets of, 1136.
Force-meat of liver and ham, 248.
French-beans, puree of cutlets, &c, 125.
,, garnish of, 152.
,, a la Maitre d'Hotel, 1171.
French-heans, with fine-herbs, 1172.
French gauffres, 1283.
Fricassee of chickens, with aspic-jelly
1219.
Fritter, apple, 1332.
„ pine-apple, 1333.
„ orange, 1334.
,, peach, &c, 1335.
„ Spanish-puffs, 1336.
„ custards, 1X37.
„ Princess, 1337a.
,, Portuguese, 13374.
„ Diavolini, 1337c.
,, German, 1337rf.
Fruit tarts in general, 1331.
Frying-batter, for fillets of fish, &c, 232.
„ for fruit-fritters, 233.
Galantine, of poulard, with aspic-jelly,
1235.
Galantines of legs of fowls, a la Jardin-
iere, 1012.
„ ,, a la Financ-
iere, 1011.
,, ,, with endive,
stewed
peas, &c,
1011.
Garlic, garnish of cloves of, for entries
of game, &c, 159.
Gasconne, sauce, a la, 68.
Genoese cakes, 1288.
„ „ with almonds, 1289.
Gcnoise sauce, 30.
German sweet sauce, 61.
Gherkin sauce, 19.
Glaces au chocolat, 12984.
,, another way, 12984.
Godiveaux, in general, 251.
Goose, a l'AUemande, 691.
,, a l'Anglaise, 695.
,, a la Dnuphinoise, 699.
„ a l'Estouffade, 696.
,,, a In Flnmande, 697.
,, il la Normande, 700.
Gooseberry sauce, 76. •
Grayling, 486.
Green Ravigotte sauce, 21.
Grey-Mullet, 486.
Grouse for removes (see Black-game^,
751.
Gurnet, stuffed and baked, 474.
,, a. la Dauphine, 475.
„ a la Gcnoise, 476.
Haddocks, fillets of, a l'ltalienne, 460.
„ „ a la Maréchale,459.
,, „ a la Royale, 458.
„ ,, a la Royale, 453.
„ stuffed and baked. 454.
,, a la Belle-vue, 455.
„ boiled with Dutch sauce, 456.
„ broiled with egg sauce, 457.
Ham, braized, with spinach, &c, 646.


INDEX.
577
Ham, Grenada anil Bnyonne, 050.
„ Westphalia, a l'essence, 647.
„ „ baked, 648.
„ „ rousted, 4 la St. James
649.
„ „ i\ la I'arisienne, 650.
„ with aspic-jelly, 1228.
Hare, cutlets of, A l'Ancienne, 1067.
„ cutlets of, & la Portuguaise, 1066.
,, entries of, or side dishes, 1068.
„ fillets of, a l'AUeinande, 1065.
„ „ a la Chasseur, 1064.
„ „• larded, with Poivrade'
sauce. 1063.
„ scollops of, with fine-herbs, 1068.
„ „ a la Pengueux, 1069.
Haricot-beans, a la Mnitre d'Motel, 1183.
„ a la Britonne, 1186.
„ garnish of, for cutlets,
&c, 160.
„ red, garnish of, 161.
Harry the VIII.'s shoe-strings, 1320.
Iced cake, a la Stanley, 1338.
,, Nesselrode pudding, 1348.
,, pudding, a In Cerito, 1840.
„ „ a la Chesterfield, 1342.
„ ,, a la Duchess of Kent,
1346.
„ „ a la Kinnaird, 1843.
,, ,, a la Prinoe Albert, 1844.
,, ,, a la Prince of Wales, 1341.
,, ,, a la Parisienne, 1345.
,, ,, a la Princess Alice, 1849
„ rice-pudding, a la Cintra, 1339.
Indian Curry-Sauce, 47.
John Dory, 411.
Kouglauff, or German cake, 1272.
Krapfen, or German puffs, 1888.
Kromeskys of fowl, a la Russe, 1019.
Lamb, removes of, 614.
„ baron of, a la Jardiniere, 616.
„ „ alaMnitred*Hôtel,617.
„ ,, a la Montmorency, 614.
,, „ a la Printaniere, 615.
„ braized carbonnades of, 938.
„ breasts of, a la Marichale, with
new potatoes, 929.
„ cutlets, plain, with cucumbers,
4c, 980.
„ " bread-crumbed,'with as-
paragus-peas, 931.
„ ,, f t la Chevreuse, 932.
„ ,, a la Princesse, 1238.
„ epigramme of, with mushrooms,
927.
„ ,, & la Villeroi, with
peas, 928.
„ hind-quarters of, 617.
„ neck of, a la Regenee, 926.
„ caddie of, a la Dauphine, 618.
„ , ub Godard, 610.
Lamh. saddle of, a la Finnnciere, 620.
,, ,, a la Macuiloine, 022.
„ „ a la Milanaise, 623
„ „ a la Royale. 621.
,, shoulder of, larded, a la Finan-
cifcre, 925.
Lambs' sweetbreads, a la Toulouse, &c,
934.
„ scolloped, 936
ears, a la Dauphine, 939.
,, a la Finnnciere, 9118.
„ a la VCnitienne, 940.
feet, fried in batter, 941.
feet, a la Poulette, 942.
„ i*i la D'Uxelles, 943.
„ fried in batter, 944.
bead, a la Pascaline, 937.
blanquette of, 935.
Lamperns, how to dress, 133.
,, f t la Beauchamp, 499.
a la Foley, 498.
Lampreys, matelotte of, 497.
Larks, a la Minute, 1051.
„ a la Chipolata, 1052.
„ with fine-herbs, 1053.
„ with truflles, a l'ltalienne, 1054.
Lettuces, garnish of braized cabbage,
164.
Lobster salad, 1226.
„ sauce, 55.
„ „ plain, 73.
,, scolloped, 538.
Lyonnaise sauce, 24.
Macaroni, a l'ltalienne, 1206.
„ with cream, 1207.
,, timbale of, a la Florentine,
1209.
„ au gratin, 1208.
Macddoine of vegetables ("white), 143.
„ „ (brown), 144.
Mackerel, boiled, with fennel sauce, 477.
,, broiled, a la Maitre d'Hotel,
478.
„ „ with nutbrown but-
ter, 479.
„ „ f t la Genoise, 480.
„ „ f t l'ltalienne, 480.
„ fillets of, a la Maitre d'Hotel,
480.
„ ,, f t la Ravigotte, 480.
Madeleines, 1290.
Matelotte sauce, 81.
„ Norman, sauce, 32.
Mayonaise sauce, 97.
if it green, 98.
„ „ red, 99.
,, ,, of savoury jelly, 100.
„ of chickens, 1222.
„ of fillets of soles, &c, 1221.
Mazarine of whitings, a la Ycnitienne,
803
,, of fat livers, a la Toulouse,
804,
36


578
INDEX.
Mecca loaves, 2195.
Meringues, 1298.
,, a la Parisicrme, 1301.
„ with Pistachios, 1362.
Millefeuilles cake, a la Chantilly, 1350.
Mioce-meat, 1444.
„ lemon, 1445.
„ royal, 1446.
„ and grilled fowl, 808, 1018.
,, ,, another way,
1014.
„ or scollops of fowl, au gratis,
1018.
,, or salpicon, for garnishing, 1021.
Minced chicken, and poached eggs, 1015.
„ with mucaroni, 1016.
„ with rice, 1017.
Mirlitons, 1301.
Mirepoix, for braizing larded roebuck,
287.
Mosaic tartlets, 417, 1326.
Mullets, in cases, with fine-herbs, 481.
,, au Ragout Cardinal, 484.
„ a la Chesterfield, 485.
„ a la Génoise, 483.
,, a l'ltalil-nne, 482.
Mnshrooms, au gratin, 1161,
i, garnish of, in Allemande
sauce, 132.
,, ,, in £spagnole
sauce, 133.
„ puree of, 122.
Muscle sauce, 52.
Mustard sauce for herrings, 86.
Mutton, removes of, 601.
,, braizedcarbonnadesof.alaDau-
phinoise,
866.
,, ,, alaFlamande,
867.
„ ,, a la Richelieu,
865.
„ „ leg of, with roots, 602.
„ ,, saddle of, a la Macédoine,
607.
,, „ ,, a la Bretonne,
605.
,, ,, „ a la Jardiniere,
606.
„ ,, ,, il la Provencale
603.
„ „ „ a la Soubise,
604.
„ boiled leg of, a l'Anglaise, 601.
„ fillets of, larded, with Chevreuil
sauce, 868.
„ haricot of, a la Nivernaise, 869.
,, necks of, a 1'Allemande, 612.
„ „ a l'Anglaise, 60S.
,, ,, a l'Irlandaise, 609.
i, ,, a la Jardiniere, 610.
„ „ larded, with Poivrade
sauce, 611.
,, ,, a la Soubise, 618.
Mutton, necks of, with puree of arti-
chokes, 854.
,, cutlets for entire, or side dish-
es, 836.
,, „ braized, a la Cbipolata,
855.
,, „ „ a la Lyonnaise,
853, 854.
„ „ ,, a la Pompa-
dour, 856.
„ „ |, a la Provencale,
£57.
„ „ „ a la Russe, 858.
,, ,, ,, u la Soubiise,
852.
„ „ breadcrumbed, and broil-
ed, 844.
„ „ plain, 836.
„ „ a la Bourguignotte, 839.
„ f, a la Bretonne, 848.
„ „ a l'lndiinne, 850.
„ „ a la Macédoine, 849.
,, ,, a la Maintenon. 838
„ „ a la Minute, 837.
„ „ a la Milnnaise, 847.
„ „ another method, 842.
,, ,, a la Nivernaise, &c, 841.
„ „ with cucumbers, 846.
,, ,, with puree of chestnuts,
851.
„ „ with puree of endives,
&c, 840.
„ „ with puree of mushrooms
845.
„ „ with stewed peas, 4c,
858.
,, ,, with new potatoes, &c,
843.
„ scollops of, with fine-herbs, 859.
„ „ a laClaremont, 860.
,, „ a l'Indienne, 862.
,, „ with musbroomsand
truffles, 864.
„ „ with olive farcies,
863.
„ „ with oysters, 861.
Neapolitan cake, a la Chantilly, 1857
,, 6auce, 63.
Nougats, large, 1285.
„ small, a la Chantilly, 1287.
„ a la Parisienne, 1286.
Nouilles, a la Palerme, 1210.
„ timbale of, a la Vanille, 1211
Noukles, a la Viennoise, 1217.
Nutritive soup, 22.
Omelette, soufflee, 437.
Omelet, with fine-herbs, 1196.
„ with kidneys, 1198.
„ with oysters, 1199.
„ with Parmesan cheese, 1197a.
„ with shalots, 1197.
Onions, puree of, a la Soubise, 119.


INDEX.
581
Puddings, brown bread, a la Gotha,
1385.
„ bread, (plain), 1400.
„ rusk. 1401.
„ biscuit, a la Prince Albert
1403.
,. „ a la Coborg, 1891.
„ „ a la Franijaise, 1892.
,, „ a la Vienuoise, 1898.
„ cabinet, 1394.
„ chestnut, 1395.
„ ginger, 1396.
„ apple, 1402.
„ pine-apple, 1397.
,, plum, 1404.
,, lemon, 1398.
„ orange, 1399.
■ „ tapioca, 1405.
Puff-paste, 1261.
„ patty-cases, 1264.
„ platts, 1321.
„ rings or wreaths, 1818.
„ ,, marigolds, 1828.
„ royals, 1308.
„ short, 1254.
„ tartlets, 1325.
„ walnuts, 1316.
Quails, with stewed peas, 1041.
,, a la Financiere, 1043.
„ a la Plrigueux, 1042.
„ a la Royale, 1044.
„ cutlets of, a la ltordelaise, 1046.
ii ,■ a la Marlcbale, 1045.
„ fillets of, a la Parisiinne, 1018.
„ ,. a la Talleyrand, 1047.
,, scollops of, with cucumbers,
1060.
., „ with trufljes.l 049.
Queen's cakeB, 1296.
Quenelle forcemeat, of fish, 246.
„ of fowl, 243.
n of bare, 244.
„ of lobsters, 247.
of pheasants or par-
tridges, 244.
„ of rabbit, 244.
. n of small birds, 245.
Quenelles, bread panada for, 240.
,, Pate-a-choux, panada for, 241
„ Prep, of call's udder, for,
242.
,, of fowls, a l'eesence, 1001.
„ of partridges, a la D'Orsay,
„ a la Printnn-
iere, 1098.
,, of pheasants, 1017.
„ of rabbit, 1062.
„ a la Marlchale, 1003.
„ a la Toulouse, 1002.
Rabbit, a la Bourguinonne, 1057.
,, a la Chasseur, 1055.
„ a la Plrigueux, 1058.
1 Rabbit, fillets of, larded, a la Marlchale,
1060.
„ „ a la Toulouse,
1059.
„ fried in batter, with Poivrade
sauce, 1056.
Rabbits, entries of, or side dishes. 1055.
„ how to dress, the same method
as fowls, page 326.
Ragout, Bourguignotte, for entries of
game, 195.
„ Cardinal, forchickens, 4c,200.
,, Cbipolata, forturkeys. 4c,190.
„ crayfish, for fish entries, 196.
Financiere, 188.
„ Matelotte, for fish, 193.
„ Norman Matelotte, for soles,
4c, 194.
„ Parisian, for fillets of partridg-
es, 4c, 203.
„ Plrigueux, for garnishing en-
tries, 4c, 192.
„ Rouenuaise, 197.
,, Regents, 211.
„ Richelieu, for bread-crumbed
entries, 207.
„ Strasbourg, of fat livers, for
fillets, &c, 191.
„ alaTortue,forcalfs-bead,189.
„ Toulouse, for garnishing fowls,
4c, 187.
„ of chickens' wings, 208.
„ of cocks' kernels, a la Soubise,
206.
„ of ox-palates, 209.
„ of sheep's-tongues, 210.
,, scollops of poultry or game,204
„ of scollops of larks for an en-
trle, 205.
„ of scollops of sweetbreads, 198.
„ of soft roes of mackerel, 199.
,, of scollops of soles to garnish
fish entries, 201.
,, of scollops of salmon, 202.
Ravigotte (white) sauce, 20.
,, (green) sauce, 21.
plain, 78.
Red-currant-jelly sauce, for venison, 65.
Regency sauce, 49.
Remoulade sauce, for cold meat, 4c, 95.
Roast black game and grouse, 1149.
„ capons, 1146.
„ green-goose, 1147.
,, guinea fowls, 11504.
„ hare, 1138.
„ larks, 1144.
„ peahens, 1150<i.
„ partridges, 1141.
„ pheasant, 1140.
„ pigeons, 1148.
„ quails, 1142.
„ rabbits, 1139.
„ ruffs and reeves, 1143.
„ woodcocks and snipes, 1145.


582
IXDEX.
P.oasts, second coarse, 314.
Robert sauce, for pork cutlets, 67.
lloux white, for thickening Velouté
suuce, 238.
„ brown, for thickening Eapagnole
suuce, 23!).
Russian sauce, 35.
Balsifis, a la creme, 1153.
,, fried in batter, 1154.
Salmis of partridges, with aspic-jelly,
1220.
,, sauce, 10.
„ ,, a l'Ancienne, 11.
Salad, German, 1216.
,, Italian, 1214.
„ Russian, 1215.
Salmon, a l'Anglaise, 418.
,, a la Cardinal, 415.
„ a la Chamborg, 412.
,, a l'Ecogsaise, 419.
,, a la Gi-noise, 414.
„ a la Maréchale, 417.
„ a la Kegence, 413.
„ a la Tartare, 420.
,, a la Victoria, 416.
,, matelotte of, 421.
„ slices of, a la Veniticnne, 422.
Sandwiches, Indian, 1212.
„ a la Kegence, 1240.
,, anchovy, 1213.
„ of fillets of soles, &c, 1241.
„ Badmintqn, 1241a.
„ Bredby, 12416.
„ Summer, 1241c.
Sauerkraut, German, 165.
,, French, 166.
Savoy cake in the form of a ham, 1864.
Scotch bread, 1278.
Seakale, puree of, 127.
„ a la suuce, 1191.
Shrimp sauce, 53.
„ plain, 74.
Sicilian sauce, 60.
Skate, crimped, boiled, 530.
„ fried, 581.
„ with nutbrown butter, 532.
„ fried, a l'ltalicnne, 533.
,, with fine-herbs, nu gratin, 534.
„ a la Pasoaline, 535.
„ a la Royale, 536.
Smelts, fried, &c, 500.
Snipes, salmis of, a la Bordelaise, 1102.
Soles, fried, with shrimp sauce, 465.
,, boiled, with Butch sauce, 406.
„ a la Colbert, 467.
„ au gratin, 468.
,, with fine-herbs, 469.
„ f t la Parisienne, 470.
„ a la Marecbale, 471.
„ matelotte Normande of, 472.
„ „ a la l'lessy, 478.
Sorrel, pur^e of, for fricandeaus, &C,
113.
Souffle' of rice, 1373.
apricot, 1378.
brown bread, 1380.
chocolate. 1374.
coffee, 1375.
ginger, 1376.
pipe-apple, 1377.
raspberries, 1379.
potato-flower, 1372.
iced, with maraschino, it.,
1457.
„ „ au cafe\ 4c, 1458.
Sonnies of partridge, a la Royale, 1095.
Soup, barley, a hi Princesse, 260.
Borsch, or Polish, 380.
Bonne-femme, 315.
Bouillabaise, or Provencale, 379.
Brunoise, 273.
calfsfeet, a la Windsor, 355.
Ceylon-moss, gelatinous chicken
broth, 396.
chicken, or game custards, 892.
chicken panada, 390, 102.
chickens and rice, 268.
Chiffonnnde, 625.
cocky-leeky, 269.
clear consomme' with rice, 266.
clear rice, with asparagus heads,
267.
Dauphine, 259.
Crecy, with whole rice, &c, 309
deer's head, a la Chasseur, 360.
Besclignac, 277.
eel, a la Richmond, 838, 81
Flemish, 275.
fillets of flounders, a l'Anglaise,
839.
giblet, a l'Anglaise, 352.
clear giblet, a l'Irlandaise, 353
grouse, a la Montagnarde, 861.
hare, a l'Anglaise, 356.
„ St. George, 357.
hodge-podge, 271.
Italian-paste, 264.
Jardiniere, 254.
Julienne, 255.
knuckle of veal and rice, 272.
Lasagnes, 265.
lettuce and whole peas, 274.
leveret, a la Russe, 358.
macaroni, 263.
,, a la Medicis, 385.
„ a la St. Pierre, 386.
„ a la Royale, 384.
mulligatnwney, 351.
nutritious liquid custards of chick-
en, 894.
ox-tail, 864.
ox-cheek, 359.
Ouka, or Russian. 881.
Olla Podrida, or Spanish, 882.
Nivernaise, 275.
oyster, a la Plessy, 336.
Palestine, 296.


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